THE GETTY CENTER LIBRARY 
 
4; 
 
 NEW DISPLAY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Beauties of England; 
 
 4 
 
 Q R, 
 
 A Defcription of the mod Elegant or Magnificent 
 PublicEdifiCes,Royal Palaces, - 
 Noblemen's and Gentlemen's Seats, 
 And other Curiosities, natural or artificial, 
 In the different Parts of the Kingdom, 
 
 ADORNED WITH 
 
 V 
 
 A Variety of Copperplate Cuts, neatly engraved* 
 
 ■ . ■ ■ mm ! m i l l ■ m mm , i i 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 A NEW EDITION, Reviled arid Enlarged. 
 
 L O N D O N : 
 Printed for R. GOADBY atid Co. and fold by R. BALDWIN 
 No. 47, in Patei nofter row. 
 MrDCCXXXXVII, 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 IT is prefiimed this work will 
 be found an agreeable com- 
 panion for thofe who may occasi- 
 onally vifit different parts of Eng- 
 land, in order to take a view of 
 the many fine palaces and feats 
 with which this kingdom is de- 
 corated, defcriptions of which 
 are given in this work 5 and alfo 
 an account of the cities, towns, 
 and mod remarkable villages. 
 Thofe who may not have an op- 
 portunity of per fon ally vifiting 
 thofe delightful retreats, may yet 
 receive no inconfiderable depree 
 of fatisfa&ion from thofe ac- 
 counts 
 
counts and views of them which 
 are given in this publication. 
 
 A variety of corrections and 
 additions are made in the prefent 
 edition ; and, in order to render 
 the work more complete, an ac- 
 count is now firft introduced of 
 the cities of London and Weft- 
 minfter, and the Borough of 
 South wark, as well as of the 
 principal buildings which they 
 contain. 
 
A 
 
 NEW DISPLAY 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Beauties of England, &c. 
 
 NOTHING is more natural than a defire of being ac- 
 quainted with whatever is moft beautiful, remarkable, 
 or curious in our own country. If we are pleafingly grati- 
 fied with defcriptionsof foreign countries, furely the curioli- 
 tiesof our native land cannot be lefs worthy our attention. 
 England is not only endeared to us by our conne&ion with 
 it, but h^s a juft claim to our regard from the great variety 
 of natural and artificial curiofities with which it abounds. It 
 is the favouriterefidenceof plenty and of freedom, of wealth and 
 of commerce; and the many advantages and excellencies with 
 which nature has liberally endowed it, have been aided by 
 the indefatigable induftry of the inhabitants, which is fuffi- 
 ciently evinced by the high degree of cultivation which ap- 
 pears in almoft every part of the kingdom. 
 
 Though the air of England is for the moft part thick and 
 heavy, and the weather very precarious, and often extremely 
 foggy ; yet even this variety of weather is attended with con- 
 fiderable advantages : for, in the firft place, it fecures the 
 ifland from thofe extremes of heat and cold to which other 
 nations, though within the fame degree of latitude, are an- 
 nually expofed; and it is in a great meafure owing to this 
 moderation of the climate, that the inhabitants of this ifland 
 
 A fire 
 
/ 
 
 ft) 
 
 live to as great an age as in any part of Europe whatfoever. 
 And that perpetual ver4u*e-for which England is remarkable, 
 and for which it is greatly admired by all foreigners who 
 come hither, is occasioned by the refrefliing (howers, and the 
 warm vapours of the fea. 
 
 With refpedt to the climate of England, there is an obfer- 
 vation concerning it that was made by King Charles the 
 Second, as we are informed by Sir William Temple, that 
 deferves to be remembered. ** I muft needs add one thing, 
 4i (fays Sir William) in favour of our climate, which I heard 
 <c the King fay, and I thought new and right, and truly like 
 ** a King of England that loved and efteemed his own 
 <c country. It was in reply to fome company that were re- 
 4t viling our climate, and extolling thofe of Italy and Spain, 
 " or at leaft of France. He faid, i& thought that was 
 <c the be ft climate where he could be abroad in the air with 
 «* pleafure^ or at leajl without trouble or inconvenience^ the moji 
 " days of the year, and themojl hours of the day; and this he 
 <6 thought he could be in England more than in any country he 
 c< knew in Europe. And I believe (adds Sir William) it is 
 «' true, not only of the hot and the cold, but even among our 
 " neighbours in France and the Low Countries themfelves, 
 u where the heats or the colds, and changes of feafons, are 
 4 * lefs treatable than they are with us/' 
 
 It has been juftly obferved, that i>o country in the world 
 can equal the cultivated parts of England for the great num- 
 ber of beautiful fcenes with which it is adorned. The va- 
 riety of high-lands and low-lands, the former gently fwelling, 
 and both of them forming profpe&s equal to the moft luxu- 
 riant imagination, the corn and meadow ground, the inter- 
 mixtures of inclofures and plantations, the noble feats, com- 
 fortable houfes, chearful villages, and well-ftocked farms, 
 often rifing in the neighbourhood of populous towns and 
 cities, decorated with the moft vivid colours of nature, afford 
 an inexpreffible pleafure. 
 
 For the fake of method, and to enable the reader to turn 
 to any particular county which he may wi(h to fee the de- 
 scription of with the greater eafe, we intend to treat of the 
 counties in an alphabetical order, and therefore fhall begin 
 with Bedfordfhire. 
 
BEDFORDSHIRE 
 
 THIS county is bounded on the fouth by Hertford (hire; 
 on the north by Northamptonfhire and Huntingdon- 
 fhire ; on the eaft by Cambridgefliire; and on the weft by 
 Buckinghamfliire. It is about twenty-two miles in length, 
 fifteen in breadth, and feventy-three in circumference. It 
 contains nine hundreds, ten market-towns, and one hundred 
 and twenty-four parifhes, five hundred and fifty villages, and 
 about two hundred and fixty thoufand acres. This county, 
 on the north fide of the river Oufeis fruitful and woody, on 
 the fouth fide it is lefs fertile. It produces wheat and barley 
 in great abundance, and of an excellent kind, and it has fo- 
 refts and parks, well ftocked with deer, and fat paftures with 
 cattle. The air is pure and healthy, and the foil in general 
 a deep clay. The principal rivers of this county are the 
 Oufeand the Ivell. It lies in the province of Canterbury 
 anddiocefe of Lincoln. 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Bedford is forty-eight miles from London, and is the 
 county-town, being a clean, well-built, and populous place. 
 The town, as well as the county, is divided into two parts 
 by the river Oufe, which crofles it in the direction of eaft and 
 weft ; the north and fouth parts of the town are joined by 
 a ftone bridge, which has two gates. Theaffizes are always 
 I held here ; and the town is governed by a mayor, recorder, 
 two bailiffs, twelve aldermen, two chamberlains, and other 
 officers. There are five churches here, three on the north, 
 and two on the fouth fide of the river. The chief of them, 
 and indeed the principal ornament of the town, is St, Paul's, 
 which had once a college of prebendaries. There was a 
 famous caftle here, which was demoliflied in the reign of King 
 Henry the Eighth, and the fcite is now a bowling-green : it 
 
 A i ftands 
 
4 BEDFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Hands high and pleafant, and is reckoned one of the fineft in 
 England. 
 
 There is a good free-fchool in this town, which was 
 founded by Sir William Harpur, lord mayor of London in the 
 reign of queen Elizabeth. This gentleman was a native of 
 Bedford, and now lies buried in one of the churches. Near 
 the free-fchool are two aritient hofpitals for lazars, and an 
 alms-houfe for eight poor perfons, befides a charity-fchool 
 for forty children, partly endowed, and partly fupported by 
 voluntary fubfeription. But the moft confiderable provifion 
 made for the poor of Bedford, was a field where Bedford-Row 
 ftands, behind Gray's Inn, London, which, at the time the 
 donation was made, produced only a fmall rent, but now, by 
 the increafeof buildings, and the expiration of leafes, is be- 
 come extremely valuable. It was given to the town, that 
 the rents might be applied to the portioning young women 
 when they entered into the marriage ftate, and to put out 
 poor children as apprentices. If this large eftate be ma- 
 naged with judgment and integrity, it may be rendered a cha* 
 ritable inftitution of a very extenfive and beneficial nature. 
 
 Bedford fends two members to parliament, who are chofen 
 by all the freemen, the mayor being the returning officer. 
 The liberties of the corporation extend about nine miles round 
 the town. There are fome good inns here, and provifions of 
 all forts are in great plenty, There is a lace manufactory 
 here, which employs about five hundred women and girls. 
 
 The Vale of Bedford, which is a perfect flat trad of land 
 for fome miles round the town, is very rich in foil, and excel- 
 lently cultivated, producing noble crops of wheat, barley, 
 and turnips. 
 
 Dunstable is a populous town, thirty-four miles from 
 London, built on the fpot where two Roman ways, called 
 Watling-ftreet and Icknild-ftreer, crofs each other ; and Ro- 
 man coins have fometimes been found here. The town is 
 lituated on a hill of chalk, juft at the end of a long ridge of 
 hills called The Chiltern. Here are four ftreets, anfwering to 
 the four cardinal winds; and becaufe of the drynefs of the 
 foil, where they cannot find fpring?, have each a pond, which, 
 though only fupplied by rain-water, are never dry. There are 
 feveralgood innshere. KingHenry theFirft built and endowed 
 a priory of black canons here ; and the church of Dunftable 
 is part of that which belonged to the priory, and is a noble 
 
 Gothic 
 
BEDFORDSHIRE. 5 
 
 Gothic ftru&ure. There is a tomb-ftone in this church, 
 from which it appears, that a woman in the town had nine- 
 teen children at five births, having been delivered twice of 
 five, and three times of three. There is a large manufa&ory 
 of ftraw hats carried on in this town, and another of lace, by 
 which almoft all the poor women and girls are employed. 
 There was formerly a royal palace here, which flood over 
 againft the church, and there are ftill fome remains of it, 
 which have been repaired and converted into a farm-houfe, 
 ftill called Kingfbury. At the weekly market, which is on 
 Wednefday, vaft quantities of corn are fold. There are four 
 fairs held here annually, namely, on A (h -Wednefday, the 
 22d of May, the 12th of Auguft, and the 12th of November. 
 
 In a plain upon the top of the chalk hills, near Dunftable, 
 is an area, of about eight or nine acres of land, vulgarly called 
 *Ihe Maiden's Bower. Some have imagined it to have been 
 a Britifhcamp, and others a work thrown up by the Danes. 
 The rampart is high, and the Icknild ftreet runs along the 
 bottom of the hill. The road along the chalk-hill is ex- 
 tremely dangerous in frofty weather, and has occafioned many 
 fatal accidents, both to men and horfes ; but fome years ago 
 the gentlemen of Bedfordfhire entered into a fubfcription for 
 floping the hill, near the town, for the benefit of the road, 
 and there are conftantly employed a certain number of hands 
 to keep it in order. 
 
 Dunftable is remarkable for Jarks, which are faid to be in 
 greater plenty, and of a larger fize, near this town, than any 
 where elfe in the kingdom. 
 
 WpBURN is a fmall market* town, forty- three miles from 
 London, and being fituated on the road to Northampton, &c. 
 contains many good inns. The whole town belongs to the 
 Duke of Bedford, and that noble family have endowed here 
 two charity fchools. In 1724 about one hundred houfes 
 were burnt down, which are fince nearly rebuilt ; and a fine 
 market-houfe has been eredted, at the expence of the Duke 
 of Bedford } fo that the town now makes an handiome ap- 
 pearance. The principal trade of this place confifts in the 
 making of jockeys caps, and digging fuller's earth, of which 
 there are great quantities in the neighbourhood. 
 
 Ampthill is a fmall market-town, forty-four miles from 
 London, pleafantly fituated between two hills, almoit in the 
 heart of Bedfordfhire. Here is a charity-fchool, and an hof- 
 
 pital 
 
6 BEDFORDSHIRE, 
 
 pstal for ten poor men, who have each a confiderable weekfy 
 allowance. This place is chiefly remarkable for a large man- 
 fion-houfe, which belongs alfo to the Duke of Bedford. It 
 was repaired and fitted up in 1765, fortheufeof the late Mar- 
 quis of Taviftock. It was firft built by Sir John Cornwall, 
 in the reign of king Henry the Sixth, out of the fpoils taken 
 from the French; but afterwards came by forfeiture to the 
 crown. Queen Katherine of Arragon fometimes refided in 
 this houfe, after her divorce from King Henry the Eighth, 
 The hall is adorned with a capital collection of paintings by 
 the beft Italian mafters, which the late Marquis of Taviftock 
 collected whilft he was abroad on his travels. 
 
 Luton is an handfome town in Bedford/hire, fituated 
 between two hills, at the diftance of thirty-two miles from 
 London. The inhabitants carry on a confiderable manu- 
 factory of ftraw-hats. In the middle of the town is a good 
 inarket-houfe, which on the market-day, which is Monday, 
 is well furnifhed with corn, poultry, and other provifions ; 
 and there are two fairs held here, one on the 25th of April, 
 and the other on the 18th of October. 
 
 Biggleswade is a market-town, five miles from Bedford, 
 and forty-five from London. It is pleafantly fituated on the 
 banks of the river Ivel, over which there is a good ftone 
 bridge j and lighters come up with coals to the town. There 
 was formerly a college for fecular priefts here. At prefent 
 the town is in a flourifhing condition, and hasfome good inns 
 in it, being a great thoroughfare in the road from London to 
 York. Its weekly market is on Tuefday, and it is reckoned 
 one of the greateft in England for barley. 
 
 Leighton Buzzard is a fmall market-town, feven miles 
 ?md an half from Dunftable, which has little in it that is re- 
 markable ; but its market is well fiored with cattle, and its 
 Whitfuntide fair with horfes. 
 
 Shefford is a fmall market-town, pleafantly fituated be- 
 tween two rivulets, over each of which there is a bridge. 
 
 Um ARK ABLE 
 
BEDFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Woburn Abbey, the noble feat of the duke of Bedford, is in 
 the neighbourhood of the town from whence it takes its name ; 
 and was originally built by Hugh Bolebec, a powerful baron 
 in the reign of King Stephen. It was intended for the ufe of 
 the monks of the Ciftertian order, who came in great fwarms 
 into this kingdom in the twelfth century. At the di Ablution 
 of the monafteries the lands and manors belonging to this 
 abbey were given to Sir John RufTel, anceftor of the prefent 
 duke; and this fpaciousand elegant houfe, which is fituated in 
 the middle of the park, is erefted where the convent formerly 
 flood. 
 
 The houfe forms a large quadrangle, with an handfome 
 Court in the center, fronting which is a large bafon, fupplied 
 with water from its own fprings. Behind are two large qua- 
 drangles of offices diftintSt from the houfe, which are very 
 beautiful buildings; plain and fimple, but extremely proper 
 for their deftination. They are built like the houfe, of 
 white ftone ; and in the center of their principal front is a 
 fmall dome, rifing over a porticoed center, fupported by Tuf* 
 can pillars, which have a very good effe£i 
 
 In the houfe you enter firft the hall, which is an handfome 
 room, the cieling of which is fupported by eight pillars* 
 The green drawing-room is extremely elegant : between the 
 windows are fine glaffes, and two very noble flabs of Egyp- 
 tian marble. The chimney-piece is of white marble po- 
 liced, and very handfome. In this room are pictures of the 
 plagues of Egypt, David and Abigail, and a very fine land- 
 scape. What is called the decker- worked room contains 
 a bed of uncommon elegance, of decker work lined with 
 green filk. The work is exquifite, and the representation of 
 the birds and beafts in it admirable. The chimney-piece is 
 very elegant ; the fcrcll of polifhed white marble in a light 
 and elegant tafte. 
 
 The dining-room is a very noble room. The chimney- 
 piece is elegant^ with a feftoon of flowers carved in whue 
 marble, and finely polifhed. In the room are four large pic- 
 tures of the battles of Alexander. — In the yellow drawing- 
 room are two fine portraits bySirJofhua Reynolds, one of 
 the late Marquis of Taviftock, and the other of the prefent 
 Dutcheis of Marlborough. The chimney-piece is very ele- 
 gant, and the pier-glafs frame finely carved of plated filver. 
 Here is alfo a portrait of the late Duke of Bedford. 
 
8 BEDFORDSHIRE. 
 
 In the coffee-room is a fmall portrait of Francis, Earl of 
 Bedford, which is exceedingly fine, the face and hands admi- 
 rably painted. The grotto is pretty of its kind ; with bafs 
 relief figures of ruftic in (hells, and fine china jars. The 
 billiard-room is hung with very fine tapeftry, defigned from 
 Raphael's cartoons. The Dutchefs's dreffing-room is ex- 
 tremely elegant, hung with ernbofled work on white paper, 
 which has a very pleafing cffe£r, The chimney-piece has a 
 carved fcroll in wood, the marble black and veined. The 
 pier-glafs is large, and the frame very elegant ; and over the 
 chimney-piece is a portrait of Lady Ofibry, by Hudfon. The 
 chairs and fophasareof painted taffeta. 
 
 The French bed-chamber is exceedingly elegant 5 the bed 
 and hangings are of very rich belmozeen filk. The chimney- 
 piece is light and beautiful $ the cornice feftoons of gilt 
 carving on a white ground, and the cieling of the fame on a 
 lead ground ; the pier-glafs and frame, and the frame of the 
 landfcape over the chimney are very elegant. 
 
 The dreffing-room is likewife hung with the fame filk, the 
 cieling and cornice richly ornamented with fcrolls of gilding 
 on a white ground : the chimney-piece is all of white marble 
 polifhed. The doors, door-cafes, and window-fhutters, &c; 
 are all ornamented like the cieling, in white and gold. In 
 this room are four very large blue and white china jars ; the 
 two by the windows are uncommonly fine. 
 
 The ftate bed-chamber is moft magnificently furniflied. 
 The bed and hangings are of very rich blue darnafk ; the 
 cieling ornamented in compartments of rich gilding on a 
 white ground. The chimney-piece, of marble poliQied, is 
 very elegant ; and the carved and gilt ornaments around the 
 landfcape over it in a beautiful tafte ; the toilette is all of very 
 handfome Drefden work, the glafs frame, and boxes of gold. 
 An India cabinet on each fide of old Japan, with coloured 
 china jars, exquifitely fine. 
 
 The dreffing-room is hung with green damafk; the chim- 
 ney-piece is very handfome, and the pier-glafs fine. The 
 drawing-room is exceedingly elegant ; the cieling a Mofaic 
 pattern of rich carving on a white ground j the chimney- 
 piece exceffively handfome, the cornice fupported by double 
 pillars, of very fine Siena marble. The pier-glaffes im- 
 menfely large, and in one plate ; under them moft noble flabs 
 of Siena marble. In this room are feveral exquifite paint- 
 ings, particularly a landfcape by Claude Lorraine, reprefent- 
 
 ing 
 
BEDFORDSHIRE. 
 
 ing a Ihip partly appearing from behind a building amazingly 
 beautiful: the diffufion of light, the general brilliancy, and 
 the harmony of the whole, are admirable, A holy family, 
 very fine ; the turn of the boy's head is inimitable. A vir- 
 gin and child ; the hair of the virgin's head, and her attitude, 
 are moft fweetly elegant and expreflive. A Magdalen ; very 
 fine. The infide of a church ; the minute expreflion of the 
 architecture, and the rays of light are finely done. A rock, 
 with the broken branches hanging from its clefts, fuppofed to 
 be by Salvator ; the expreflion is very noble, and the roman- 
 tic wildnefs of the fcene moft excellently reprefented. A 
 holy family ; the child (landing in the cradle ; a very pleafing 
 picture. Jofeph interpreting the dreams of Pharaoh, by Rem- 
 brandt ; moft admirably executed, in a greater ftile than is 
 common with this mafter. Rembrandt by himfelf ; inimi- 
 tably done. The Dutchefs of Bedford prefenting Lady Ca- 
 roline to Minerva, by Hamilton ; this is a very large picture, 
 and fome of the figures not inelegantly done for this mafter. 
 
 Thefaloon is moft magnificently fitted up, and elegantly 
 furnifhed ; the cieling beautiful, of gilt carving on white ; 
 the door-cafe finely carved and gilt, the cornices fupported 
 by Corinthian pillars in a noble, but light and pleafing ftile | 
 the chimney-piece of white marble, beautifully poliftied : in 
 the centre hangs a magnificent luftre. Here is a fine picture 
 reprefenting thelaftfupper ; the drawing is in a free and bold 
 ftile; and a fine piece of angels, fuppofed to be painted by 
 Albano. 
 
 Thefecond dining-room is a very noble room, the cieling 
 white and gold, and the chimney-piece very elegant, over 
 which is a fine landfcape. 
 
 The fecond drawing-room is very elegantly fitted up 9 and 
 among other pictures contains two capital Jandfcapes, morn* 
 ing and evening, by Marat ; two paintings of battles j and 
 one of lions, by Rubens. 
 
 The picture-gallery is ornamented by a vaft number of ele- 
 gant portraits of the Ruflel family \ and among thofe which 
 are moft finely executed, are the portraits of William Jbar! 
 of Bedford, the Countefs of Somerfet, and Lady Catharine 
 Brooke. 1 he ornaments of this room are all carving, 
 painted white. There are fourftatues here, one of which is 
 a Venus of Medicis, and another Venus plucking a thorn 
 out of her foot. 
 
 Vol I B mbum 
 
BEDFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Wohurn Park is one of the largeft in the kingdom, being 
 ten miles round, all walled in, and contains a great variety of 
 hill and dale, with fine woods of the nobleft oaks. We pafs 
 from thehoufe through them towards the fouth, and look up 
 the great glade, which is cut through the park for feveral 
 miles, at the end of which appears a Chinefe temple. Then 
 winding through the woods we come to the dutchefs's fhrub- 
 bcry, which contains fixteen acres of land, beautifully laid out 
 in the modern tafte, with many venerable oaks in it. From 
 whence we advance to the hill at the north end, from which is 
 a vaft profpedl into Buckinghamfhire, Hertfordfliire, and Bed- 
 fordshire. Turning down the hill to the left, the riding leads 
 to the ever-green plantatioh of above two hundred acres of 
 land, which little more than thirty years ago was a barren rab- 
 bit warren, but is now a very beautiful winter's ride, on a dry 
 foil, with all kinds of evergreens, of a noble growth. About 
 the middle, on the left hand fide, is an handfome temple, re- 
 tired and pleafing. At the end of this plantation we come to 
 the lower water, which is about ten acres, and in the centre 
 is an ifland with a very elegant and light Chinefe temple, 
 large enough for thirty people to dine in; and in the adjoining 
 wood is a kitchen, and other accommodations for making 
 ready the repafts the duke takes in the temple. In the front 
 of the houfe is a large bafon of water, in which are feveral 
 handfome boats. 
 
 At a little diftance from Luton is Luton Hoo 9 a fine feat be- 
 longing to the Earl of Bute. It is an elegant pile of building; 
 and that nobleman has expended very confiderable fums of mo- 
 ney in ornamenting this retreat. The entrance to it is through 
 a ledge facing the town of Luton, and the walk up to the 
 houfe is along a fine artificial river, which was formerly no- 
 thing more than a fmall ftream. On the right hand is a ri« 
 fing ground, whereon are fome exceeding fine plantations ; 
 and on the left are a vaft number of trees, planted fo as to imi- 
 tate nature, along the banks of the ftream. The earl has 
 caufed an artificial lake to be made, and in the middle of it is 
 a fmall ifland, to which you pafs in a pleafure boat, and from 
 whence the profpect is extenfive and delightful. On the 
 ifland are fine plantations of young trees ; and as you ad- 
 vance towards the houfe, you pafs through a fine rows of elms, 
 and on each fide are large clumps of beech, which add greatly 
 to the beauty of the fcene. Through thefe trees there is 4 
 
BEDFORDSHIRE* n 
 
 fine profpecl of the neighbouring hills, fields, and cottages ; 
 whilft the towers and fpires of fleeples lead the fpectator into 
 a pleafing deception, by caufing him to imagine that what he 
 beholds is adually a rural city. In a pleafing valley, near the 
 houfe, is a monumental pillar, elegantly executed in the 
 Tufcan order, and feen to the greateit advantage through the 
 trees, on the pedeftal of which is the following inscription ; 
 In memory of Mr, Francis Napier." 
 
 Near Silfoe is Wreji Houfe, a magnificent feat, with a large 
 park, which belonged to the ancient family of De Grey, 
 Dukes of Kent. It now belongs to the Earl of Hardwicke, 
 who acquired it by his marriage with Jemima Marchionefs 
 Grey, and Baronefs Lucas, who is a peerefs in her own right. 
 In an hermitage here is the following infcription, which was 
 Written by a perfon who came on a vifit to this agreeable retreat : 
 
 €€ Stranger, or gueft, whome'er this hallow'd grove 
 
 * c Shall chance relieve where fweet contentment dwells,, 
 
 4S Bring here no heart that with ambition fwells, 
 
 tc With av'rice pines, or burns with lawlefs love. 
 
 * c Vice-tainted fouls will all in vain remove 
 
 4e To fylvan fhades, and hermits peaceful cells ; 
 
 €€ In vain will feek retirement's lenient fpells, 
 
 *' Or hope that blifs, which only good men prove. 
 
 €t If heav'n-born truth, and facred virtue's lore, 
 
 * c Which chear, adorn, and dignify the mind, 
 
 " Are conftant inmates of thy honeft breaft ; 
 
 * c If, unrepining at thy neighbour's flore, 
 
 ** Thou count'ft as thine the good of all mankind, 
 
 * f Then, welcome, (hare the friendly groves of WreH." 
 
 At Houghton Park) near Ampthill, the Earl of Upper 
 Oflbry has a fine feat, which was firft built by the Countefs 
 of Pembroke. The houfe is a noble and venerable edifice, 
 containing many fine rooms; and the gardens are laid out 
 with much tafte and magnificence. There is ftill a large 
 pear-tree here, under which the celebrated Sir Philip Sydney 
 is faid to have written part of his Arcadia. 
 
 At a little diftance from ShefFord is Chick/and Priory, the 
 feat of Sir George Ofborne, baronet. 
 
 At SouthUl, in the neighbourhood of ShefFord, is a fine feat 
 of Lord Torrington's. 
 
 B % At 
 
12 BEDFORDSHIRE. 
 
 At Clapham, about two miles from Bedford, is a fine feat 
 belonging to the Earl of Afhburnham; and near it is Oakly, 
 a feat belonging to the Duke of Bedford. 
 
 ♦ 
 
 At Brumham, which is on the weft fide of the river Oufe, 
 Lord Trevor has a finefeatt 
 
 Harewood, or Harold, is a place of confiderable antiquity, 
 but is now reduced to a village. Here was formerly a nun- 
 nery of the order of St, Auguftine. Part of the church is 
 ftill remaining, and appears to have been a very elegant Go- 
 thic building. 
 
 There is a village called Warden, near Bigglefwade, where 
 a monaftery was founded for the monks of the Ciftertian 
 order, in the latter end of the reign of King Henry the Firft, 
 which was endowed with lands to a confiderable value. 
 
 Cardington is a very neat and agreeable village ; mod of the 
 houfes and cottages are new built, all of them tiled, and 
 many of brick, which, with white pales and little plantations* 
 have a moft pleafing effeft. 
 
 At Northill there is a very fine window in the chancel of 
 the church, painted by Oliver ; and the redor of that church 
 has two fmall pieces of painted glafs by the fame mafter, which 
 are of uncommon excellence. 
 
 The parifli of Sandy, near Northill, is much noted for its 
 gardens; there are above one hundred and fifty acres of land 
 occupied by many gardeners, who fupply the whole country, 
 for many miles, with garden ftuff, even to Hertford. 
 
 Wejlonlng\% a pleafant village, which has a venerable church 
 that ftands in an agreeable and rural fituation. The earl of 
 Pomfret has a feat here. 
 
 At a little diftance from Wreft-Houfe is the village of Cop- 
 hill, which is a pretty rural place, not far from which is a fine 
 feat belonging to Earl Granville, known by the name of 
 
 JJawnes* 
 
 BERKSHIRE, 
 
BERKSHIRE 
 
 THIS county is bounded by Hampshire on the fouth ; by 
 Wiltfliire and Gloucefterfhire on the weft; by the river 
 Thames (which divides it from Buckinghamfhire and Ox- 
 fordfliire) on the north; and on the eaft by Middlefex and 
 Surrey. It is about thirty-nine miles long, twenty-nine 
 broad, and one hundred and twenty in circumference ; and 
 contains four parliamentary boroughs, twenty hundreds, 
 twelve market towns, one hundred and forty parities, and fix 
 hundred and feventy-ene villages. 
 
 The air of this county is healthy even in the vales, and 
 though the foil in general is not the moft fertile, yet the ap- 
 pearance of the country is remarkably pleafant, being de- 
 lightfully varied with wood and water, which are feen at once 
 in almoft every profpeft. This county is well ftored with 
 timber, particularly oak and beech ; and fome parts of it pro- 
 duce great quantities of wheat and barley. The whole of 
 this county is in the province of Canterbury and diocefe of 
 Salifbury. 
 
 The river Thames wafhes more of this county than any 
 other it touches ; and from this circumftance Berkfhire derives 
 both fertility and convenience for the carriage of its commo- 
 dities to London, of which it fends a great many, particularly 
 malt, meal, and timber. There are four other rivers in the 
 county, the Kennet, great part of which is navigable, the 
 Lodden, the Ocke, and the Lambourne, a fmall ftream, 
 which, contrary to all other rivers, is always higheft in 
 fummer, {hrinks gradually as winter approaches, and at laft is 
 nearly, if not quite dry. 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Reading is fuppofed to derive its name from redin^ the 
 Britifh word for fern^ which is f<ud to have grown here in 
 
 great 
 
14 BERKSHIRE* 
 
 great abundance. It is thirty-nine miles from London, is 
 the county-town, and is governed by a mayor, twelve alder- 
 men, and twelve burgefles. It contains three pariih churches, 
 and the ftreetsof this town are well built, and it is more fpa- 
 cious and populous than many cities. It is partly encom- 
 pafled by the Thames, which juft by it receives the river Ken« 
 net, that pafles under feven bridges in the town and neigh- 
 bourhood, and abounds with pike, eel, dace, and fine trout. 
 It had anciently a caftle, of which the Danes are faid to have 
 been in pofieffion when they drew a ditch between theKennet 
 and the Thames ; and they retreated hither after they had 
 been routed, at a little diftance from hence, by the Saxon King 
 Ethelwolf 5 but in 872 they quitted it to the Saxons, who 
 plundered and deftroyed the town, which they repeated in 
 icc6; but it recovered itfelf, and is faid to have been a bo- 
 rough in the reign of William the Conqueror. Its caftle 
 afterwards having been a refuge for King Stephen's party, was 
 demolifhed by King Henry the Second. 
 
 A magnificent abbey of flint-ftone was foundad here by 
 King Henry the Firft, which is faid to have equalled moft of 
 the abbies in England for its ftrudture and wealth ; and its 
 abbots fat in the Houfe of Lords. It was fupprefled foon 
 after the reformation 5 but the gate-houfe is ftill pretty entire, 
 and there are fome remains of its walls eight feet thick, 
 
 Reading has a confiderable trade into the country, but its 
 chief traffic is with London, whether it fends malt, meal, and 
 timber, and receives back coals, fait, tobacco, grocery wares, 
 and other commodities. The largeft barges come up to the 
 jtown-bridge, where there are commodious wharfs for clearing 
 and loading them. The Kennet, which runs through the 
 town, will bear a barge of more than an hundred tons, and is 
 navigable almoft to Newbury. 
 
 This town fends two members to parliament ; and there are 
 four annual fairs held here, viz. on the ift of February, the 
 25th of July, the 21ft of September,and the 6th of November. 
 
 As fome peafants were digging fome years ago, on a rifing 
 ground, not far from Reading, they discovered a ftratum of 
 ©yfler-fhells, lying on a bed of green fand, and covered with 
 a ftratum of bluifh clay. Many of the fhells when they are 
 taken up, have both the valves lying together, and when the 
 upper and under {hell or valve are found feparate, it appears, 
 upon comparing and joining them, that they originally be- 
 longed 
 
BERKSHIRE, 
 
 longed to each other, Thisftratum has been found to extend 
 through five or fix acres of ground. 
 
 Newbury is fifty-fix miles from London, and is pleafantly 
 iituated on the river Kennet, which runs through the town ; 
 the ftreets are fpacious, and the market-place, in which there 
 is a guildhall, is large. This town is fuppofed to have rifeii 
 out of the ruins of the antient Spina y a town mentioned by 
 Antoninus in his Itinerary ; for there is a little village within 
 lefs than a mile, that is flill called Spene % which the inhabi- 
 tants of Newbury own to be the mother place; and part of 
 Newbury itfelf is called Spenha?n Land* 
 
 This town has been very famous for the manufa&ure of 
 broad cloth, but that trade is now much on the decline here% 
 So much broad cloth was made here formerly, that in the 
 reign of King Henry the Eighth here flourifhed John Winf- 
 comb, commonly called Jack of Newbury, one of the great- 
 eft clothiers that ever was in England. He kept an hundred 
 looms in hishoufe; and in the expedition to Flodden-Seld 
 againft the Scots, he marched thither in defence of his country 
 at the head of an hundred of his own men, all clothed and 
 armed at his own expence. He behaved in that engagement 
 with diftinguifhed bravery ; and afterwards returned to his 
 native place, and at his own expence re-built the greateft part 
 of the parifli-church of this town. Thehoufe in which he 
 lived remained till about a century ago, when it was divided 
 into tenements, and let out to different tenants. 
 
 The town-hall at Newbury is an ancient edifice, built of 
 brick, and fupported by pillars ; and in this hall the inhabi- 
 tants have fixed up a fine hiftorical picture of the furrendcr of 
 Calais, which was painted by Mr. Pine in the year 1762, and 
 for which he received the firft premium of onehundred pounds 
 given by the Society of Arts, 
 
 There is an alms-houfe here, faid to have been originally 
 founded by King John, for fix poor men and fix poor women : 
 Each perfon is allowed one (hilling and nine-pence a week, 
 four (hillings each on the fair day, thirteen fhiiiings and four- 
 pence at Chriftmas, an hundred faggots of wood yearly, and 
 a new coat or gown every two years. 
 
 Windsor is a moft agreeable town, fituated twenty-two 
 miles from London, and is fuppofed to derive its name 
 from its winding fare, or* the foutb fide of the Thames. 
 
 It 
 
16 BERKSHIRE. 
 
 It is fituated on a riling ground : the principal fireet looks 
 Southward over a long and fpacious valley, chequered with 
 corn fields and meadows, interfperfed with groves, and 
 watered by the Thames, which glides through the prof- 
 pe£l in a transfluent and gentle ftream ; and, fetching 
 many windings, feerrts to linger in its way • On the other 
 fide, the country fwells into hills, which are neither craggy 
 nor over high, but rife with a gradual afcent that is covered 
 with perpetual verdure where it is not adorned with trees* 
 
 This town was conftituied a borough by King Edward the 
 Firft, with great privileges, fuch as exemption from all tolls 
 of bridges, markets, and fairs. It fent members to parliament 
 from the thirtieth year of that prince's reign to the four- 
 teenth of Edward the Third, when it intermitted till the 
 twenty-fifth of Henry the Sixth, but has fent two members 
 ever fince. It has charters both from King James the Firft 
 and Second. It is governed by a mayor, high-fteward, under- 
 jfteward, a town-clerk, two bailiffs, and twenty-eight other 
 pcrfons, chofen out of the mo ft fubftantial inhabitants, thir- 
 teen of whom are called fellows or benchers of the guildhall ; 
 and of thefe thirteen, ten are called aldermen, from among 
 whom the mayor and bailiffs are annually chofen. The 
 members of parliament are ele£ted by the inhabitants paying 
 fcot and lot, and who are computed to be in number about 
 three hundred, the mayor is the returning officer. 
 
 The church here is a fpacious ancient building, fituated in 
 the high ftreet of the town, in which is alfo the town houfe, 
 a neat regular edifice, built in i6h6, and fupported with co- 
 lumns and arches of Portland ftone ; at the north end is 
 placed in a niche the ftatueof Queen Anne in her royal robes, 
 with the globe and other regalia ; and underneath, in the 
 freeze of the intablature of the lelfer columns and arches, is 
 the following inscription in gold letters ; 
 
 Anno Regni VI 0 . 
 Dom. 1707. 
 
 Arte tuaifculptor, non eft imitabilis Anna ; 
 Ann^e ms JimiUm Jculpere? fculpe Deam. 
 
 S. Chapman, Prtetore* 
 
 And in another niche on the focith fide is the ftatue of Prince 
 George of Denmark, her majefty's royal confort, in a Roman 
 military habit, and underneath is the following inscription : 
 
 Sermjfimt 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 SereniJJtmo Principi 
 Georgio Principi D anise, 
 Heroi omni faeculo venerando, 
 Chriftophorus Wren, Arm. 
 Pofuit. MDCCXIII. 
 
 In the area, underneath the town-hall, the market is kept 
 every Saturday, and is plentifully fupplied with Corn, meat* 
 fifh, and all other provifions. 
 
 Maidenhead is a market-town at thediftance of twenty- 
 eight miles from London. It ftands in two parifhes, Cook- 
 ham and Bray, and was firft raifed out of obfeurity by a bridge, 
 which about three centuries ago was built over the Thames at 
 this place, and brought hither the great north-weft road, 
 which ufed to crofs theThames at a place called Babham End, 
 about two miles to the north, where there was a ferry. After 
 this bridge was built, Maidenhead began to be accommodated 
 with inns, and the town is now pretty large, and tolerably 
 weil built. The bridge is maintained by the corporation, 
 for which they are allowed the tolls both over and under it ; 
 and the crown gives three trees a year out of Windfor foreft 
 towards repairing it. The barge pier divides Berkfhire from 
 Buckinghamfhire. There is a great trade here in malt, meal, 
 tnd timber, which are carried in barges to London. Here 
 is a gaol both for debtors and felons, a chapel dedicated to 
 St. Andrew the apoftle and St. iVjary Magdalen, but no 
 church, and an alms-houfe, confifting of dwellings for eight 
 poor men and their wives \ each man has fix pounds a year, 
 and every fecond year each perfon has a new gown. It was 
 endowed by James Smith, citizen and falter of London, and 
 his wife, about 1589, and the Salters Company of London 
 are truftees. 
 
 Abingdon is fituated on a branch of the Thames, at the 
 diftance of fifty-fix miles from London. It is a large, popu- 
 lous, and flourifhing town j the ftreets are well paved, and 
 centre in a fpacious area, where the market is held. In the 
 centre of this area is the market-houfe, which is a curious 
 building of afhlar work, fupported on lofty pillars, with a 
 large hall of free-ftone above, in which the affixes are fre- 
 quently held, and other public bufinefs tranfafled. There 
 was formerly a very magnificent abbey here, which was de- 
 
 Vol. I. C ftroyed 
 
 1 
 
i« BERKSHIRE. 
 
 ftroyed at the general diflblution of the monafteries. Here 
 are two parifli churches, both of which are faid to have been 
 built by one of the abbots of Abingdon. There is alfo here 
 a well endowed free-fchool, and two alms-houfes for poor 
 people of both fexes. The trade carried on by the inhabitants 
 of this town chiefly confifts in dealing in corn and preparing 
 malt, which is conveyed down the river in barges to London. 
 
 Wallingford is forty-fix miles from London, and is a 
 large town, and makes a good appearance. It is fituated oti 
 the fiver Thames, over which it has a ftone bridge that is 
 three hundred and nine yards long, having nineteen arches 
 and four draw bridges. It has a market-houfe, over which is 
 the town-hall. The chief fupport of this town is the malt 
 trade. There was formerly a famous cafile here, fome re- 
 mains of which are yet to be feen. 
 
 Within a mile of this town is a farm called Cbofely, the 
 lands belonging to which lie all together, and are let at om 
 thoufand pounds per annum ; and there is one barn on th* 
 cftate, the roof of which is three hundred and fix feet long. 
 This ufed ro be confidered as the largeft farm in England ; 
 but it is probably not fo now, fince the pernicious practice of 
 cngroffing and enlarging farms has become fo prevalent. 
 Some artful reafoners have, indeed, endeavoured to prove 
 that large farms are moft advantageous to the community ; but 
 the arguments brought in fupport of this opinion appear to be 
 extremely fophiftical; and it is certain, that an equitable and 
 benevolent government would chufe to encourage that mode 
 of cultivating the earth that was moft favourable to popu- 
 lation, and by which the greateft number of induftrious fami- 
 lies might be comfortably fupported, which cannot be the 
 cafe when the monopolization of farms becomes general, and 
 which therefore may juftly be confidered, for thisand various 
 other reafons, as a moft pernicious pra&ice. 
 
 Hungerford is a fmall market-town, about eight miles 
 from Newbury, and fixty-four from London. It is governed 
 by a conftable, who is chofen yearly, and is lord of the manor, 
 which he holds immediately of the King, for the time being. 
 The church is an handfome Gothic ftrudture. They have a 
 horn here that holds about a quart, and which appears by an 
 infeription on it to have been given to this town by the fa- 
 mous John of Gaunt, fon gf King Edward the Third, toge- 
 ther 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 19 
 
 ther with a grant of the royal fifhery, in a part of the river 
 which abounds with good trout and craw-fifli. 
 
 Lambourne is afmall town, fixty-eight miles from Lon- 
 don, which derives its name from the little river Lambourne 
 which rifes near it. It is not a place of much note, buc the 
 adjacent country is pleafant. There is an hofpital here for ten 
 poor men, which was founded in 1502. This town is moll: 
 remarkable for its rivulet, which is always higheftin fummer, 
 but fo low in winter as to be almoft loft. 
 
 Farringdon is a neat clean town, fixty-eight miles from 
 London, and pleafantly fituated on a hill near the river Thames. 
 The church is a venerable Gothic ftru&ure, and has painted 
 glafs in the windows, befides many ancient monuments*— 
 Henry Pye, Efqj has an handfonie feat here. 
 
 Wantage is an agreeable market* town, fixty miles from 
 London, and eight from Farringdon, and is pleafantly fituated 
 in a fine fporting country. This place was formerly a royal 
 villa, and is faid ro have been the birth place of King Alfred.— 
 The country adjoining to Wantage is extremely pleafant, 
 
 East-Ilsley is a fmall market-town, fifty-four miles 
 from London, agreeably fituated in a fporting country. The 
 houfes in the town are neat, and the adjoining lands well cul- 
 tivated. The market, which is held on Wednesday, is faid to 
 be the grcateli for fheep of any in England. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Windfor Cajile is the moft delightful royal palace in 
 England. It was firft built by William the Conqueror foon 
 after bis being eftablifhed on the throne of this kingdom, on 
 account of its pleafant and healthful ficuation, and as a place 
 of fecurity; was greatly improved by King Henry the Firft, 
 who added many additional buildings, and furrounded the 
 whole with a ftrong wall. Our fucceeding Monarchs refided 
 in the fame caftle, till King Edward the Third cauftd the an- 
 cient caftleto be taken down, erected the prefent ftately caf- 
 le and St. George's chapel, incloted the whole with a ftrong 
 
 C 2 wall 
 
BERKSHIRE, 
 
 wall or rampart of Hone, and inftituted the order of the 
 garter. 
 
 It may be proper to obferve, that William of Wykeham, 
 afterwards Bifhop of Wincbefter, was principally employed 
 by King Edward the Third in building this caftle, and when 
 lie had finifhed it, he caufed this doubtful fentence to be cut 
 on one of the towers : 
 
 44 This made Wykeham." 
 Which being reported to the King as if that prelate had af- 
 iumed to himfelf the honour of building this caftle, that 
 bifliop would probably have fallen under his Majefty's dif^ 
 pleafure, had he not readily aflured his royal mafter, that he 
 meant it only as an acknowledgement that this building had 
 made him great in the favour of his Prince, and had occa- 
 sioned his being raifed to his prefent highftation. 
 
 Great additions were in fucceeding times made to the caf- 
 tle by feveral of our monarchs, particularly by Edward the 
 Fourth, Henry the Seventh, Henry the Eighth, Elizabeth, 
 and Charles the Second. This laft Prince r foon after his re- 
 iteration, entirely repaired the caftle, and though it had fuf-» 
 fered greatly by plunder and rapine in the preceding times of 
 national diforder, he reftored it to its ancient fplendour. As 
 that Prince ufually kept his court there during the fummer 
 feafon, he fpared no expence in rendering it worthy the royal 
 refidence. He entirely changed the face of the upper court, 
 he enlarged the windows, and made them regular, richly fur- 
 nifhed the royal apartments, and had them decorated with 
 large and beautiful paintings, and e reeled a large magazine of 
 arms. In fhort, King Charles the Second left little to be 
 done to the caftle, except fome additional paintings in the 
 apartments, which were added by his fucceflors James the 
 Second, and William the Third, in whofe reign the whole 
 was completed. 
 
 This (lately and venerable caftle is divided into two courts 
 pr wards, with a large round tower between them called the 
 jniddle ward, it being formeiiy feparated from the lower ward 
 by a ftrong wall and draw-bridge. The whole contains 
 above twelve acres of land, and has many towers and batte- 
 ries for its defence $ but length of time has abated their 
 ftrength. 
 
 The caftle is fituated upon a high hill, which rifes by a 
 gentle afcent,and enjoys a moll delightful profpedl around it : 
 \n the front is a wide sad extenfiye vale, adorned with corn 
 
 fields 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 fields and meadows, with groves on either fide, and the calm 
 fmooth water of the Thames running through it, and behind 
 it are every where hills covered with woods, as if defigned 
 by nature for game and hunting* 
 
 On the declivity of the hill is a fine terrace, faced with a 
 rampart of free-ftone one thoufand eight hundred and feventy 
 feet in length. This may jufily be faid to be one of the 
 nobleft walks in Europe, both with refpe£t to the ftrength 
 and grandeur of the building, and the fine and extenfive prof- 
 petfi over the Thames of the adjacent country on every fide, 
 where from the variety of fine villas fcattered about, nature 
 and art feem to vie with each other in beauty. 
 
 When Queen Elizabeth refided at Windfor, fhe ufed to 
 walk on this terrace near an hour every day before dinner, if 
 not prevented by windy weather, to which (lie had a parti- 
 cular averfion. Wet weather was no interruption to her 
 amufement there; for fhe took great delight in walking 
 abroad when the rain was only mild and calm, with an um- 
 brella over her head. — This noble walk is covered with fine 
 gravel, and has cavities, with proper drains, in order to carry 
 off the rain, fo that let it fall ever fo heavy, none of it will 
 lie upon the terrace; by which means it is dry, hard, and fit 
 for walking on, as foon as ever the ftorm is over. 
 
 From this terrace you enter into a beautiful park of the 
 fineft green or lawn, which lies round this royal caftle, and is 
 no fmali ornament to Windfor; it is called the Little or 
 Houfe-Park, to diftinguifh if from another adjoining of much 
 larger extent ; but this is computed to be four miles in cir- 
 cumference, and contains near five hundred acres of land ; it 
 was enlarged and inclofed by a brick-wall in the reign of 
 King William the 7 hird, and is mo ft delightful for its natu- 
 ral beauty, and the many fhady walks, efpecially that called 
 Queen Elizabeth's walk; which, on the fummer evenings, 
 is chiefly frequented by the bell company. 
 
 The fine plain on the top of the hill, was made level for 
 bowling in King Charles the Second's time, an exercife in 
 which that Prince much delighted ; and from hence is the 
 like extended profpeel over the fame moll beautiful and well 
 cultivated country and the river Thames, 
 
 The lower part of this park, under the terrace of the north 
 fide of the caftle, was defigned and laid out for a garden in 
 the reign of Queen Anne; but on the demife of that Prin- 
 
 cefs, 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 cefs, and in a country where the beauties of nature are more 
 attended to than the decorations of art, this defign was laid 
 afide. 
 
 In this park is conftantly a good flock of deer and other 
 game, and the keeper's lodge, at the farther end next the road 
 fide, is a delightful habitation. 
 
 In the upper court of the caftle is a fpacious and regular 
 fquare, containing on the north fide the royal apartments, and 
 St* George's chapel and hall 5 on the fouth and eaft fides are 
 the royal apartments, thofe of the Prince of Wales, and the 
 great officers of ftate ; and in the centre of the area is an 
 equeftrian ftatue in copper of King Charles the Second, in the 
 habit of one of the Caefars, Handing on a marble pedeftal, 
 adorned with various kinds of fruit, fifh, {hipping^ and other 
 ornaments. 
 
 The round tower, which forms the weft fide of this upper 
 court, contains the governor's apartments. It is built on the 
 higheft part of the mount, and there is an afcent to it by a 
 terge flight of fione fteps. Thefe apartments are fpacious 
 and noble, and among the reft is a guard room, or magazine 
 of arms. King Charles the Second began to face this mount 
 with brick,but only compleated that part next the court. The 
 govcmor'slodgings cornmanda moftextenfive view toLondon a 
 and, as they fay, into twelve counties. They alfo teli you, that 
 in the guard-chamber, are the coats of mail of John King of 
 France, and David King of Scotland, both prifoners here at 
 the fame time. The royal ftandard is raifed on this tower on 
 flate-holidays, or when the King or Royal Family refide 
 here. 
 
 On the oppofite corner of theroyal buildings is King John's 
 tower, fo named from its being the apartment affigned to that 
 French monarch when he was prifoner in England. 
 
 The royal apartments are on the north fide of this princely 
 caftle,and commonly go under the name of the Star Building, 
 from the garter and ftar largely difplayed in gold, and fixed 
 in the middle of the building on the outfide next the terrace. 
 The ufual entrance into the apartments is from the upper 
 court or ward, through an handfome veftibule, fupported by 
 pillars of the Ionic order, with fome antique brafs buftos ira 
 the feveral niches of no great account $ and alfo figures of a 
 Roman veftal, and a flavein the adiion of picking a thorn out 
 of his foot* The great fiajrcafe is finely pained with feveraj 
 
 fabulous 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 fabulous ftories from Ovid's Metamorphofes, particularly the 
 ftory of Phaeton, who is reprefented on the dome petitioning 
 Apollo for leave to drive the chariot of the fun ; and on the 
 ftair-cafe, in large compartments, are the transformation of 
 Phaeton's fitters into poplars, their tears diftiliing amber from 
 the trees with this infcription, * c Magnis tamen excidit au/is" 
 cc Great events happen to the bold." Aifo the ftory of Cyc- 
 nus, King of Liguria, who, being inconfolable for Phaeton's 
 death, was transformed into a fvvan. Over thefe, and on the 
 feveral parts of the cieling, fupported by the winds, are repre- 
 fented the figns ofthe zodiac, with bafkets of flowers, beau- 
 tifully difpofed, and at each corner are the elements of earth, 
 air, fire, and water, exprefied by cornucopias, birds, zephyrs, 
 flaming cenfers, water nymphs with fifties, and a variety of 
 other reprefentations expreffing each element; a!fo Aurora, 
 with her nymphs in waiting, giving water to her horfes. Ia 
 proper attitudes, in feveral parts of this ftair-cafe, are alfo re- 
 prefented comedy, tragedy, mufic, painting, and other fci- 
 ences, and the whole ftair-cafe is beautifully difpofed and 
 heightened with gold, and has a view to the back ftairs, 
 whereon is painted the ftory of Meleager and Atalanta. The 
 painting of this ftair-cafe was by Sir James Thornhill. 
 
 We now proceed to a particular description of the princi- 
 pal apartments. 
 
 TheQueen'sguard-chamber is the firft apartmentinto which 
 you enter. It is completely furnifhed with fire arms, as guns, 
 bayonets, pikes, bandaleers, &c. beautifully ranged and dif- 
 pofed into various forms, with the ftar and garter, the royal 
 cypher, and other ornaments intermixed, cut in lime-wood. 
 Over the chimney is a fuil portrait of Prince George of 
 Denmark in armour on horfeback, by Dahl, with a view of 
 Clipping, by Vandewell. On the cieling is Britannia, in the 
 perfon of Queen Catharine of Portugal, confort to King 
 Charles the Second, feated on a globe, bearing the arms of 
 England and Portugal, with the four quarters of the world, 
 viz. Europe, Afia, Africa, and America, and their refpeclive 
 fyrnbois, attended by deities prefentmg their feveral offer- 
 ings. The figns of the zodiac are on the outer part of this 
 beautiful reprefentation. In different parts of the cieling are 
 Mars, Venus, Juno, Minerva, and other heathen deities, 
 with zephyrs, Cupids, and other embellishments, properly 
 difpofed. 
 
 On 
 
24 BERKSHIRE. 
 
 On the cieling of the Queen's prefence chamber. Queer! 
 Catharine is reprefrnted attended by religion, prudence, forti- 
 tude, and other virtues. She is under a curtain, fpread by 
 time and fupported by zephyrs, while fame founds the happi- 
 jiefs of Britain. Below, jullice is driving away envy, (edi- 
 tion, and other evil genii. The room is hung with tapeftry, 
 containing the hiftory of the heheading of St, Paul, and the 
 perfecution of the primitive Chriftians, and adorned with the 
 pictures of Judith and Holofernes, by GuidoReni; a Mag- 
 dalen, by Sir Peter L< ly ; and a Prometheus, by young 
 Palma. 
 
 On the cieling of the Queen's audience-room is Britannia- 
 represented in the perfon of Queen Catharine, in a car drawn 
 by fwans to the temple of virtue, attended by Flora, Ceres, 
 Pomona, &c. with other decorations heightened with gold. 
 The canopy is of fine Englifh velvet, fet up by Queen Anne ; 
 and the tapeftry was made at Coblentz, in Germany, and pre- 
 fented to King Henry the Eighth. The pictures hung up in 
 this room, are, a Magdalen by moonlight, by Caracci ; St, 
 Stephen ftoned, by Rotterman ; and Judith and Holofernes, 
 by Guido Reni. 
 
 On the cieling of the ball-room King Charles the Second 
 is reprefentcd giving freedom to Europe by the figures of Per- 
 feus and Andromeda; on the fhield of Perfeus is inferibed 
 44 Perfeus Britannicus" and over the head of Andromeda is 
 wrote 44 Europa Liberata" and Mars attended by the celeftial 
 deities, offers the olive branch. On the coving of this 
 chamber is the ftory of Perfeus and Andromeda, the four 
 feafons, and the figns of the zodiac; the whole heightened 
 with gold. The tapeftry, which was made at BruiTels, and 
 fet up by King Charles the Second, reprefents the feafons of 
 the year ; and the room is adorned with the following pic- 
 tures, viz, the roman charity, after Tintoret ; Duns Sco* 
 tus, by bpagnolettoj a Madona by Titian ; Fame by PaU 
 megiani ; the arts and fcienc^s, alfo by Palmegiani ; and Pan 
 and Syrinx, by Stanick. 
 
 On the cieling of the Queen's drawing-room is painted the 
 affembly of the gods and goddefles, the whole intermixed with 
 Cupids, flowers, &c. and heightened with gold. The room 
 is hung with tapeftry, reprefenting the twelve months of the 
 year ; and adorned with the pi&ures of Lot and his daughters, 
 after ongelo; Lady Digby, wife of Sir Kenelm Digby, by 
 Vandyke $ a fleeping Venus, by Pouffin - t a family in the 
 
 charadcr 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 character of Mark Anthony and Cleopatra, by De Bray ; a 
 Spanifh family, after Titian ; and a flower piece, by Varelft. 
 
 The bed of ftate in the Queen's bed-chamber is of rich 
 flowered velvet made in Spitalfields, by order of Queen Anne, 
 and the tapeftry, which reprefents the harveft feafon, was alio 
 made at London, by Poyntz. The cieling is painted with the 
 ftory of Diana and Endymion, and the room is adorned with 
 the pictures of the holy family, by Raphael ; Herod's cruelty, 
 by Juliano Romano ; and Judith and Holofernes, by Guido. 
 
 The room of beauties is fo named from the portraits of 
 the moft celebrated beauties in the reign of King Charles 
 the Second. They are fourteen in number, viz. Lady OfTory, 
 the Dutchefs of Somerfet, the Dutchefs of Cleveland, Lady 
 Gramont, the Countefs of Northumberland, the Dutchefs of 
 Richmond, Lady Byron, Mrs. Middleton, Lady Denham 
 and her fifter, Lady Rochefter, Lady Sunderland, Mrs. Daw- 
 fon, and Mrs. Knott. Thefe are all original paintings, 
 drawn to great perfection, by Sir Peter Lely. 
 
 In the Queen's drefling-room are the following portrait?, 
 viz. Queen Henrietta Maria, wife to King Charles the Firft, 
 Queen Mary, when a child, and Queen Catherine ; thefe 
 three are all done by Vandyke: the Dutchefs of York, mo- 
 ther to Queen Mary and Queen Anne, by Sir Peter Lely. — 
 In this room is a clofer, wherein arefeveral paintings, and in 
 particular a portrait of the Countefs of Defmond, who is 
 faid to have lived to within a few days of one hundred and 
 fifty years of age; alfo a portrait of Erafmus, and other 
 learned men. In this clofet is likewife the banner of France, 
 annually delivered on the fecond of Auguft by the Dulce of 
 Marlborough, by which he holds Blenheim-houfe, built at 
 Wdodftock in Oxfordlhire, in the reign of Queen Anne, as 
 a national reward to that great general for h/s many glorious 
 victories over the French. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's, or the picture gallery, is richly adorned 
 with the following paintings, viz King James the Firft and 
 his Queen, whole lengths, by Vanfomer ; Rome in flames, 
 by Julio Romano; a Roman family, by Titian ; the holy 
 family, after Raphael ; Judith and Holofernes, by Tincoret* 
 a night piece, by Skalkinj thepoolof Bethefda, byTintoret; 
 a portrait of Charles the Sixth, Emperor of Germany, by 
 Sir Godfrey Kneller ; the wife men making their offerings to 
 Chrift, by Paulo Veronefe ; two ufurers, an admired piece, 
 by the famous blackfmith of Antwerp 5 Perfeus and Andro- 
 
 VoL, I, D meda 
 
26 
 
 BERKSHIRE. 
 
 meda,by Schiavone ; Aretine and Titian,byTitian ; the Duke 
 of Gloucefter,a whole length,by Sir Godfrey Kneller ; Prince 
 George of Denmarlc,a whole lengtb,by Dahl ; King Henry the 
 Eighth, by Hans Holbein $ Vandenelli, an Italian ftatuary,by 
 Correggio; thefoundersof different orders in theRomiflichurch, 
 by Titian, and Rembrandt; a rural piece in low life, byBaf- 
 fano ; a fowl piece^ by Varelft; the battle of Spurs near Te- 
 revaen, in France, in 1513, by Hans Holbein ; two views of 
 Windfor caftle, by Wofterman, and two Italian markets, by 
 Michael Angelo. In this room is alfo a curious amber ca- 
 binet, prefented by the King of Pruffia to Queen Caroline. 
 
 There is here iikewife Queen Caroline** china clofet, filled 
 with a great variety of curious china elegantly difpofed, and 
 the whole room is finely gilt and ornamented ; over the chim- 
 ney are the pictures of Prince Arthur and his two lifters, the 
 , children of King Henry the Seventh, by Holbein ; and in this 
 clofetis alfo a fine amber cabinet, prefentedto Queen Anne, 
 by Dr. Robinfon, Bifliop of London, and plenipotentiary at 
 the congrefs of Utrecht. 
 
 The cielingof the King's clofet is adorned with the ftory 
 of Jupiter and Leda« Among the curiofities in this room is a 
 large frame of needle work, faid to be wrought by Mary Queen 
 of Scots, while a prifoner in Forthinghay caftle ; among other 
 figures, fhe herfelf is reprefented fupplicating for juftice be- 
 fore the Virgin Mary, with her fon, afterwards King James the 
 Firft,ftanding by her; in a fcroll is worked thefe words u Sapi- 
 entiam amavi et exquifivi a juventute w^.'V.This piece of work 
 after its having lain a long time in the wardrobe, was fet up 
 by order of Queen Anne. The pictures are, a Magdalen, by 
 Carracci ; a fleeping Cupid, by Correggio ; contemplation, 
 by Carracci y Titian's daughter, by herfelf and a German 
 lady, by Raphael. 
 
 The cielingof the King's dreffing room is painted with 
 the ftory of Jupiter and Danae ; and adorned with the pi&ures 
 of the birth of Jupiter, by Julio Romano \ and of a naked 
 Venus afleep, by Sir Peter Lely. 
 
 The King's bed chamber is hung with tapeftry, reprefent- 
 ing the ftory of Hero and Leander ; the bed of ftate, which 
 was fet up in the reign of King Charles the Second, is of fine 
 blue cloth, richly embroidered with gold and filver ; and on 
 the cieling that Prince is reprefented in the robes of the gar- 
 ter, under a canopy fupported by time, Jupiter, and Neptune, 
 
 with 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 with a wreath of laurel over his head ; and he is attended by 
 Europe, Afia, Africa, and America, paying their obeifance to 
 him. The paintings are, King Charles the Second, when a 
 boy, in armour, by Vandyke m 9 and St. Paul ftoned at Lyftra, 
 by Paulo Veronefe. 
 
 On the cielipg of the King's drawing room, is King 
 Charles the Second, riding in a triumphal car, drawn by the 
 horfes of the fun, attended by fame, peace, and the polite arts ; 
 Hercules is driving away rebellion, fedition, and ignorance ; 
 Britannia and Neptune, properly attended, are paying obei- 
 fance to the monarch as he pafles j and the whole is a repre- 
 sentation of the reftoration of that monarch, and the intro- 
 duction of arts and fciences into thefe kingdoms. In the other 
 pares of the cieling are painted the labours of Hercules, with 
 feftoonsof fruit and flowers, the whole beautifully decorated 
 in gold and fione colour, The pictures hung up in this room 
 are, a converted Chinefe, by Sir Godfrey Kneller $ the Mar- 
 quis of Hamilton, after Vandyke, by Hanneman ; Herodias's 
 daughter, by Carlo Dolci ; a Magdalen, by Carlo Dolci j 
 and a Venetian lady, by Titian. 
 
 On the cieling of the King's public dining room, is painted 
 the banquet of ttoe gods, with a variety of fifh and fowl. 
 The pictures hung up here are, the portraits of his prefent 
 Majefty, and the late Queen Caroline, whole lengths ; Her- 
 cules and Ornphale, Cephalus and Procris, the birth of Venus, 
 and Venus and Adonis, the four laft by Gcnario $ a naval 
 triumph of King Charles the Second, by Verrio ; the mar- 
 riage of St Catherine, by Dawkers ; nymphs and fatyrs, by 
 Rubens and Snyders ; hunting the wild boar, by Snyders 5 a 
 picture of Hill life, by Girardo ; the taking of the bears, 
 by Snyders; a night piece, being a family fioging by candle 
 light, by Quiftin ; aBohemian family,by De Brie ; divine love, 
 by an unknown hand ; and Lacy, a famous comedian in King 
 Charles the Second's time, in three characters, by Wright. 
 
 Many of the paintings in this room are beft feen at noon by 
 the reflection of the fun ; the carving of this chamber is very 
 beautiful, reprefenting a great variety of fowl, fi(h,and fruit, 
 done to the utmoft perfection on lime wood, by Mr, Gibbons, 
 a famous flatuary and carver in the reign of King Gnarle^ the 
 Second, 
 
 On thecieling of theKing'saudiencechamber,is reprefenced 
 the re-efiabliflimentof the Church of England in thele nations 
 
 D 2 on 
 
28 BERKSHIRE. 
 
 on the reiteration of that pious Prince, Charles the Second, in 
 the characters of England, Scotland, and Treland, attended by 
 faith, hope, charity, and the cardinal virtues; religion tri- 
 umphs over fuperftition and bypocrify, which are driven by 
 Cupids from before the face of the church ; all which appear 
 in proper attitudes, and the whole highly finifhed. The 
 paintings in this room are, our Saviour before Pilate, by Mi- 
 chael Angelo; theapoftles at our Saviour's tomb, by Schia- 
 voni ; Peter, James, and John, by Michael Angelo ; and the 
 Putchefsof Richmond, by Vandyke. The canopy of this 
 room is of green velvet, embroidered with gold, very rich, fet 
 up in the reign of King Charles the Second. 
 
 On the cielipg of the King's prefence chamber, is Mer- 
 cury, with an exceedinggood original portrait of King Charles 
 the Second, which he (hews to the four quarters of the world, 
 introduced by Neptune 3 fame declaring the glory of that 
 Prince, ^nd time driving away rebellion, fedition, and their 
 companions. Over the canapy is juftice in ftonecolour, 
 ihewing thearms of Britain to Thames and his river nymphs, 
 with the flar of Venus, and this label, Sydus Carollnum 3 at 
 the lower end of the chamber is Venus in a fea car, drawn 
 by tritons and fea nymphs. This cieling is in all parts beau- 
 tifully pointed, and highly ornamented with gold and ftone- 
 colour. The pointings in this room are, Henry Duke of 
 Gloucester, brother to King Charles the Second, by Van- 
 dyke ; theCountefs of Dorfet, his governefs, by ditto; Father 
 Paul the Venetian, by Tintoret ; the tapeftry of this cham- 
 ber is thehiftory of Queen Athaliah. 
 
 The ICing's guard chamber is a fpacious and noble room in 
 which is a large magazine of arms, viz. pikes, piftols, guns, 
 coats of mail, fwords, halberts, bayonets, drums, &c* to the 
 amount of forne thoufands, all beautifully difpofed in colonades, 
 pillars, circles, fhields. and other devices in a moft curious 
 manner, ranged by Mr* Harris, late mafter-gunner of the 
 caflle, the fame perfon who made that beautiful arrangement 
 of the fmall arms in the great armoury in the Tower of Lon- 
 don, and at Hampton Court, and whom we fhall have 
 occafion to fpeak of hereafter. 
 
 The cieling is painted in water colours : in one circle is 
 peace and plenty, and in the other Mars and Minerva, In 
 fhe dornej is a reprefenution of Mars, and the whole room is 
 
 decorated 
 
BER KSHIRE. 
 
 decorated with inftruments of war adapted to the chamber. 
 Over the chimney is a portrait, as large as life, of Charles the 
 Eleventh, King of Sweden, on horfeback, by Wyck. And 
 over the door they (hew the armour of Edward the Black 
 Prince. 
 
 In this room the knights of the garter dine in great ftate 
 at an inftallation, in the abfence of the Sovereign. 
 
 St. George's hall is particularly fet apart to the honour of 
 the order of the garter, and is one of the nobleft rooms in 
 Europe, both with regard to the building and the painting, 
 which is here perforrnedin themoft grand tafte. Inalargeoval 
 in the centre of the cieling KingCharles the Second is repre- 
 fented in the habit of the order, attended by England, Scot- 
 land, and Ireland ; religion and plenty hold the crown of 
 thefe kingdoms over his head : Mars and Mercury, with the 
 emblems of war and peace, ftand on each fide. In the fame 
 oval, regal government is reprefented upheld by religion and 
 eternity, with juftice attended by fortitude, temperance, and 
 prudence, beating down rebellion and faflion. Towards the 
 throne is reprefented in an o£tagon, St. George's crofs incir- 
 cled with the garter, within a ftaror glory fupported by Cupids, 
 with the motto, 
 
 * c HONI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE." 
 
 and befides other embellifihments relating to the order, the 
 rnufes are reprefented attending in full concert. 
 
 On the back of the flate, or iovereign's throne, is a large 
 drapery, on which is painted St. George encountering the 
 dragon, as large as the life, and on the lower border of the 
 drapery is infcribed, 
 
 " Venientdo restituit rem," 
 in allufion to King William the Third, who is painted in the 
 habit of the order, fitting under a royal canopy, by Sir God- 
 frey Kneller. To the throne is an afcent by five ftepsof fine 
 marble, to which the painter has added five more, which are 
 done with fuch perfection as to deceive the fight, and induce 
 the fpeilator to think them equally real. 
 
 This noble rppm is an hundred and eight feet in length, and 
 the whole north fide is taken up with the triumph of Edward 
 the Black Prince, after the manner of the Romans. At the 
 upper part of the hall is Edward the Third, that Prince's fa*- 
 ther 2 conqueror of France and Scotland, and the founder of 
 
 the 
 
3 o BERKSHIRE. 
 
 the order of the garter, felted on a throne, receiving the Kings 
 of France and Scotland prifoners ; the Black Prince is feared 
 in the middle of the proceffion, crowned with laurel, and car- 
 ried by flaves; preceded by captives, and attended by the em- 
 blems of victory, liberty, and other enfi^nia of the Romans, 
 with the banners of France and Scotland difplayed. The 
 painter has given a loofe to his fancy by ciofing the procefiiou 
 with thefidtion of the Countefs of Salifbury,in the perfon of 
 a fine lady, making garlands for the Prince, and the reprefen- 
 tation of the Merry Wives of Windfor. 
 
 At the lower end of the hall is a noble muiic gallery, fup- 
 ported by {laves, larger than the life, in proper attitudes, faid 
 to reprcfent a father and his three fons, taken prifoners by the 
 Black Prince in his wars abroad. Over this gallery on the 
 lower compartment of the cieling is the collar of the order of 
 the garter fully difplayed, The painting of this room was 
 clone by Verrio, and is highly finiflied and heightened with 
 gold. 
 
 The King's chapel is decorated in a very gay and fplendid 
 manner. On the cieling is finely reprefented our Lord's afcen- 
 fion ; and the altar piece is adorned with a noble painting of 
 the laft fupper. The north fide of the chapel is ornamented 
 with the reprefentation of our Saviour's raifing Lazarus from 
 the dead, his curing the fick of the palfy, and other miracles, 
 beautifully painted by Verrio; and in a group of fpeclators 
 the painter has introduced his own effigy, with thofe of Sir 
 Godfrey Kneller, and Mr. Cooper, who affifted him in thefe 
 paintings. The eaft end of this chapel is taken up with the 
 clofets belonging to his Majefty and the Royal family. The 
 canopy, curtains, and furniture are of crimfon velvet, fringed 
 with gold ; and the carved work of this chapel, which is well 
 worthy the attention of the curious, is done by that famous 
 arcift Gibbons, in lime tree, reprefenting a great variety of pe- 
 licans, doves, palms, and other allufions to fcripture hiftory, 
 with the ftar and garter, and other ornaments, finiflied to great 
 perfection. 
 
 St. George's chapel which is fituated in ,jthe middle of the 
 lower court, is in the pureft ftile of Gothic architecture, and 
 was firft erected by King Edward the Third, in the year 1337, 
 foon after the foundation of the college, for the honour ot the 
 order of the garter, and dedicated to St. George, the patron 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 of England; but however noble the firft defign might b^, 
 King Edward the Fourth, not finding it entirely compleated, 
 enlarged the ftruclure and defigned the prefent building, toge- 
 ther with thehoufes of the dean and cations, fituated on the 
 north and weft fides of the chapel; the work was afterwards 
 carried on by Henry the Seventh, whofinifhed the body of the 
 chapel, and Sir Reginald Bray, knight of the garter, and the 
 favourite of that King, affifted in ornamenting the chapel and 
 compleating the roof, 
 
 The architecture of the infide has al ways been efteemed for 
 its neatnefs and great beauty, and in particular the ftone roof 
 is reckoned an excellent piece of workmanfhip. It is an ellip- 
 fis fupported by Gothic pillars, whofe ribs and groins fuftaia 
 the whole cieling, every part of which has fome different de- 
 vice well finiftied, as the arms of Edward the Confefibr, Ed- 
 ward the Third, Henry the Sixth, Edward the Fourth, Henry 
 the Seventh, and Henry the Eighth, alfo the arms of Eng- 
 land and France quarterly, the crofs of St. George, the rofc, 
 portcullis, lion rampant, unicorn, &c, In a chapel in the 
 fouth ifle is represented in ancient painting, the hiftory of 
 John the Baptift, and in the fame ifle are painted on large pan- 
 nelsof oak, neatly carved and decorated with the fevera! de- 
 vices peculiar to each Prince, the portraits at full length of 
 Prince Edward, fon to Henry the Sixth, Edward the Fourth, 
 Edward the Fifth, and Henry the Seventh. Jn the north ifle 
 is a chapel dedicated to St. Stephen, wherein the hiftory of 
 that faint is painted on the pannels, and well preferved. la 
 the'firftof thefepannels St. Stephen is reprefented preaching 
 to the people ; in the fecond he is before Herod's tribunal ; in 
 thethird he is ftoningj and inthe fourth he isreprefented deatf. 
 At the eaft end of this ifle is the chapter houfe of the college, 
 in which is aportrait at full length, by a mafterly hand,of the 
 victorious Edward the Third, in his robes of ftate, holding 
 in his right hand a fword, and bearing the crowns of France 
 and Scotland, in token of the many victories he gained over 
 thofe nations. On one fide of this painting is kept the fword 
 of that great and warlike Prince. 
 
 But what appears mod worthy of notice is the choir. On 
 each fide are the flails of the fovereign and knights compa- 
 nions of the moft noble order of the garter, with the helmet, 
 mantling, creft,and fword of each knight, fet up over his ftal!, 
 
 on 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 on a canopy of ancient carving, curioufly wrought, and over 
 the canopy is affixed the banner or arms of each knight, pro- 
 perly blazoned on filk, and on the back of the flails are the 
 titles of the knights, with their arms neatly engraved and 
 blazoned on copper. The fovereign's ftall is on the right 
 hand of the entrance into the choir, and is covered with pur- 
 ple velvet and cloth of gold, and has a canopy and compleat 
 furniture cf the fame valuable materials; his banner is like- 
 -wife of velvet, and his mantling of cloth of gold. The 
 Prince's ftall is on the left, and has no diftin&ion from thofe 
 of the reft of che knights companions, the whole fociety, ac- 
 cording to the ftatutes of the inftitution, being companions 
 and colleagues, equal in honour and power. 
 
 The altar piece was, foon after the reftoration, adorned 
 with cloth of gold and purple damafk, by King Charles the 
 Second ; but on removing the wainfcot of one of the cha- 
 pels in the year 1707, a fine painting of the Lord's fupper 
 was found, which being approved of by Sir James Thornhill, 
 Verrio, and other eminent mafters, was repaired and placed 
 on the altar piece. 
 
 Near the altar is the Queen's gallery, for the accommo- 
 dation of the ladies at an inftallation. 
 
 In a vault under the marble pavement of this choir, arc 
 interred the bodies of Henry the Eighth, and Jane Seymour 
 his Queen, King Charles the Firft, and a daughter of Queen 
 Anne. 
 
 In the fouth ifle, near the door of the choir, is buried King 
 Henry the Sixth, and the arch near which he was interred, 
 was fumptuoufly decorated by King Henry the Eighth, with 
 the royal enfigns and other devices, but they are now much 
 defaced by time.— In this chapel is alfo the monument of 
 Edward Earl of Lincoln, Loid High Admiral of England in 
 the reign of Queen Elizabeth, ere&ed by his lady, who is alfo 
 interred with him. The monument is of alabafter, with pil- 
 lars of porphyry. — Another monument, within a neat fcreen 
 of brafs work, is eredted to the memory of Charles Somerfet, 
 Earl of Worcefter, and knight of the garter, who died in 
 1526, and bis lady, daughter to William Earl of Hunting- 
 don.- — *lfo a ftately monument of white marble ere&ed to 
 the memory of Henry Somerfet, Duke of Beaufort, and 
 kmght of the garter, who died in 1699. There are here alfo 
 the tombs of Sir George Manners, Lord Rws, that of the 
 
 Lord 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 Lord Haftings, Chamberlain to Edward the Fourth, and 
 fevera! others. 
 
 The tomb-houfe, which is adjoining to the eaft end of St. 
 George's chapel, was eredled by King Henry the Seventh, for 
 a burial place for himfelf and thofe who ftiould fucceed hint 
 on the throne of England : but this Prince afterwards altering 
 his purpofe, began the more noble edifice at Weftminfter ; 
 and this fabric remained negledled till Cardinal Wolfey ob- 
 tained a grant of it from Henry the Eighth, and then defigned 
 and began here a mo ft fumptuous monurhent for himfelf, from 
 whence this building obtained the name of c « Wolfey's Tomb- 
 <c houfej" and fome have, erroneoufly fuppofed, that at firft 
 the whole building was ere&ed by that famous Cardinal. 
 Lord Bacon obferves, that this monument " far exceeded that 
 6C of King Henry the Seventh, in Weftminfter- Abbey 
 and at the time of the Cardinal's difgrace, and his lofs of the 
 King's favour, thedefign had been fo far executed, that four 
 thoufand two hundred and fifty ducats had been paid to th» 
 ftatuary for executing that part of the work which was then 
 done. But the Cardinal dying foon after his/etirement from 
 court, was privately buried in the chapel of Leicefter Abbey, 
 and this monument remained unfinifhed j and at laft, in 1640* 
 became the plunder of the Parliamentarian foldiers. King 
 James the Second afterwards converted this building into a 
 Popifti chapel, and mafs was publickly performed here; fincei 
 which it has been entirely negledted, and iuffered to run to ruin* 
 
 Wind/or Great Pari, which lies on the fouth fide of the 
 town, opens by a moft noble road, or long walk, in a di- 
 rect line, to the top of a delightful hill at the diftance of near 
 three miles. This road, through a double plantation of trees 
 on each fide, leads to the Ranger or Keeper's Lodge, the refi- 
 dence of his Royal Highnefs the late Duke of Cumberland* 
 who greatly improved the natural beauties of this park, ^nd 
 by large plantations of trees, extenfive lawns, new roads, fpa- 
 cious canals, and rivers of water, made this villa a moft de« 
 lightful habitation. This park is fourteen miles in circum- 
 ference, and is well ftocked with deer, and variety of otner 
 game. The late Duke was fucceeded both in the rangerfhip 
 of this park, as alfo in title by hisroyaj nephew, the preienl 
 Duke of Cumberland, 
 
 Th« 
 
 V<w. I. £ 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 The late ere£ted building, or Belvidere, on Shrub's Hill, 
 over a beautiful verdure and young plantation of trees, is very 
 elegant, and affords the moft delightful rural fcene; the noble 
 piece of water in the valley underneath, was effected at a large 
 expence, and from a fmall ftream or current of water, was 
 made a fpacious river, capable to carry barges and boats of 
 pleafure, with freedom ; his Royal Highnefs alfo erededover 
 this river, a bridge of a moft curious archite&ure, on a noble 
 and bold plan, being a {ingle arch, one hundred and fixty-five 
 feet wide ; this piece of water was a great ornament to the 
 park, and terminates in a grotto, and large cafcade or fall of 
 water ; but has of late fuffered damage by the breaking up 
 of the head bank. 
 
 Neither was the attention of his Highnefs confined to the 
 park only, but extended in like manner to the adjoining foreft, 
 that fcene of rural diverfion, and place of refidence of the 
 royal game. Among the improvements made here by that 
 Prince, the new two miles courfe on Afcot Heath cannot be 
 palTed unnoticed : This race ground was laid out and brought 
 into the moft beautiful order at a large expence, and is one of 
 the firft courfes in the kingdom. The foreft is of great extent, 
 and was appropriated to hunting, arid the habitation of the 
 King's deer, by William the Firft, who eftabliflied many laws 
 and regulations which are at this time obferved for the prefer- 
 vation of the royal game, and better regulation of the foreft. 
 In this extenfive traft of land are feveral agreeable towns and 
 villages, of which Wokingham is the principal, and almoft 
 in the centre of the foreft; and although the land is gene* 
 rally barren and uncultivated, it affords great delight and plea- 
 fure in riding, by beautiful hills and vales intermixed with 
 fine lawns and herbage for cattle, alfo by tHe many agreeable 
 habitations of gentlemen, whofe 
 
 cc Pleafant Villas intervene, 
 
 *' To grace the fweetly varied fcene.'* 
 
 And, if we confider the noble exercife of the chace which 
 this foreft admits of, the large verdures and ftiady plantations 
 of oak, beech, and other trees, that fo frequently abound in 
 this delightful fpot, it muft be confefled that this park and fo- 
 reft are peculiarly adapted by nature to rural pleafure and de- 
 lights and that no juft idea can be formed of the many beau- 
 ties 
 
BERKSHIRE. 3S 
 
 ties that here, on every fide, offer to our fight, by the bed de- 
 scription in profe ; our great Englifli poet, Mr. Pope, alone 
 can truly paint out thefe fylvan fcenes and delightful habita- 
 tions ; whofe mufe, (whilft himfelf refided in this foreft) pro- 
 duced one of the fineft poems in our language, on this fub- 
 jedt, and which he thus elegantly introduces: 
 
 €t The groves of Eden, vanifiYd now fo long, 
 " Live in defcription, and look green in fong : 
 <tf Thefe, was mybreaft infpir'd with equal flame, 
 " Like them in beauty, mould be like in fame. 
 €e Here hills and vales, the woodland and the plain, 
 €C Here earth and water feem to meet again. 
 €€ Not Chaos like, together crulh'd and bruis'd, 
 " But, as the world, harmonioufly confus'd : 
 " Where order in variety we fee, 
 cc And where, tho' all things differ, all agree. 
 <s Here waving groves a chequer'd fcene difplay, 
 €< And part admit, and part exclude the day 
 c * There, interfpers'd in lawns and op'ning glades, 
 €€ Thin trees arife, that fhun each other's lhades. 
 € i 4 Here in full light the ruffet plains extend ; 
 * c There wrapt in clouds the bluifh hills afcend ; 
 ff Ev'n the wild heath difplays her purple dyes, 
 •* And midft the defart, fruitful fields arife, 
 €C That crown'd with tufted trees and fpringing corn, 
 *' Like verdant ifles the fable waite adorn.—— 
 cc Not proud Olympus yields a nobler fight, 
 * c Tho' Godsaffembled grace his tow'ring height, 
 €C Than what more humble mountains offer here, 
 €t "Where, in their bleflings, all thofe Gods appear." 
 
 Cranbourne Lodge in this neighbourhood, belonged alfo to 
 his late Royal Highnefs, as ranger of the foreft. This lodge 
 is moll pleafantiy fituated, and has an extenfive profpe& over 
 a fine plain and country, forming a moft beautiful landscape. 
 In afpacious chamber of the houfe are painted and regularly 
 ranged in large pannels, the military dreffesof the different 
 corps in the armies of Europe, The Duke of Gloucefter is 
 the prefent ranger of Cranbourne Chace, and great improve- 
 ments have been made to this lodge by his Highnels. 
 
 Oppofite to the front of this lodge on the neighbouring 
 plain,in the parifli of Wingfield, is a handfome building erected 
 and endowed by the late Earl of Ranelagh, fometicne ranger 
 
 E 2 of 
 
36 BERKSHIRE* 
 
 of this foreft, for the education of twenty boys and girls: ont 
 this pleafing fpot or part of the foreft are the villas of the late 
 Mr, Buckley, Lady Beauclcrk, Mr. Mitford, and other gen- 
 tlemen ; and at a fmall diftance Fern-Hill offers to the fight 
 on a delightful eminence* 
 
 St. Leonard's* Hill is adjoining to the Duke's lodge, and 
 requires due notice, on account of the pleafing feat of Lillye 
 Aynfcombe, Efq ; and the large plantation of oakandbeech* 
 which here form the mod agreeable variety or face of nature. 
 On the fummit of the hill the Countefs of Waldegrave has 
 lately erected a noble edifice* which commands a moft exten- 
 five and delightful profpeftover the river Thames, and a moft 
 beautiful fruitful country. 
 
 Sunning- Hill which is at a fmall diftance, is a very delights 
 ful part of the foreft, and many gentlemen of fortune have 
 here pleafing villas or lodgings for the fummer-feafon, to drink 
 the mineral waters, which in many cafes are deemed benefi- 
 cial to health. The wells are defigned with fome tafte, and 
 
 neatly laid out : the afiembly-houfe is handfome and fpa- 
 cious, with pleafant gardens. Public breakfaftings are here 
 every Monday morning, and frequent affembiies of gentlemen 
 and ladies are held for the benefit of agreeable converfation, 
 and to partake of the pleafing amufements of the country. 
 
 Swinley ^ Lodge , which is not far from Sunning-Hill, be- 
 longs to the mafter of the buck-hounds. Here is always a 
 number of deer, under his care and dire&ion, kept for the 
 royal chafe. He appoints the days of hunting, takes care of 
 the foreft deer, and the King's flag and buck-hounds; and 
 for this purpofe has many inferior officers under him, who fu- 
 perintend the feveral parts of the foreft, divided into different 
 walks or appointments. — Many other villages alfo partake of 
 the pleafures of the foreft, and furround this royal caftle, as 
 Ingfield Green, Old-Windfor, Datchet, &c. where gentle- 
 men of fortune have their country feats. In the neighbour- 
 hood of Ingfield-green, and on the decline of the plain, is 
 Cooper's-Hill, long fince celebrated by Sir John Denham. 
 
 Old Windfor was formerly a place of note, and the refi- 
 dence of feveral of our Saxon monarchs before the time of 
 William the Fiift, who fixed upon the adjacent hill for his 
 refidence : and by this means, together with the caftle, in a 
 fcort time was raifed a new town, while this once royal refi- 
 dence 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 dence went to decay, and retained little more than the honour 
 of its antiquity, and giving name to the whole country 
 around. 
 
 TheHont Mr. Bateman, Lord Mulgrave, Lady Primrofe, 
 and Colonel Montague, have here their refidence in the fum- 
 mer-feafon : the houfesof the three firft are moft agreeably 
 fituated on the banks of the Thames, and have large walks 
 and gardens. The feat of Colonel Montague, called Beau- 
 mont lodge, is on the hill, and commands a moft extenfive 
 and delightful profped of the river and country; the gardens 
 are large and extend to Ingfield-green, that lies behind. Mr. 
 Bateman's houfe is a cabinet, or uncommon colledlion, of cu- 
 riofities, chiefly antiques ; by fome approved, by others held 
 too minute and inconfiderable* But upon the whole, this 
 houfe and gardens are amoll agreeable villa; and the planta- 
 tions, or yew tree's lhade, round the church, add to the plea- 
 fing fcene, and, together, form the moft enchanting rural 
 fpot. 
 
 Datchet, alfo a pleafant village, lies higher up the river, and 
 has the conveniency of a bridge built by Queen Anne, with 
 an entrance into Windfor Little Park. The courfe of the 
 river, and the road round the park wall is moft agreeable, 
 efpecially on fummer evenings. This village has of late 
 been much improved, and is inhabited by many gentlemen 
 of fortune, on account of its pleafant fituation and vicinity to 
 Windfor. 
 
 Near Newbury Mr. Andrews has built a houfe in the Go- 
 thic ftile, and ornamented the grounds about it with much 
 tafte. Jt is fituated on a rifing ground, backed by a hill 
 crowned with wood, out of which rifes Donnington-Gaftle* A 
 lawn fpreads round the houfe, which ends in a very fine water ; 
 a ftream enlarged into a river, takes a winding eafy courfe, 
 near a mile long, and of a confiderable breadth There are 
 three or four iflands in it, one of which is thickly planted, 
 and affords fhelter to many fwans and wild fowl which fre- 
 quent the water, at the fame time that they add to the beauty 
 of the place. A winding gravel walk, through both the 
 groves on the banks of the river, opens to feveral retired and 
 pleafing fcenes : Onone fpot is a pretty ruftic Gothic temple, 
 built of flint, near a cafcade, which the river forms by falling 
 oyer a natural ridge of ftones. The whole place is laid out 
 
 with 
 
38 BERKSHIRE. 
 
 with tafte ; the houfe is a good one; the ftair cafe peculiar, 
 but agreeable, and the library a large handfome, and well pro- 
 portioned room. 
 
 Donnington Caftle, before-mentioned, was antiently the 
 feat of Geoffrey Chaucer, the father of Englifh poetry. 
 They (how you a place here, where, in his days, and even in 
 the memory of fome of the inhabitants now living, flourifhed 
 a great oak, called Chaucer's oak, where, they tell you, he 
 ufed to fit and compofe his poems. 
 
 htBiJham was formerly an abbey, the remains of which 
 are ftill to be feen. The eftates belonged once to the Knights 
 Templars, but are now the property of Sir John Hobby Mill, 
 who has here built an elegant feat, on the banks of the 
 Thames ; and a range of wood, which partly furrounds it, 
 crowns the hills in a very noble manner. In the little church 
 of Bifham are the monuments of this family, which are well 
 worth feeing. 
 
 There are feveral agreeable villages in the neighbourhood 
 of Newbury, particularly Enbourne, which is remarkable for 
 the following lingular and whimfical cuftom of the manor. 
 The widow of every copyhold tenant is intitled to the whole 
 copyhold eftate of her hqfband, fo long as (he continues un- 
 married and chafte ; if (he marries, fhe lofes her widow's 
 eftate without remedy ; but if fhe is guilty of incontinence, 
 fhe may recover her forfeiture, by riding into court on the next 
 court day, mounted on a black ram, with her face towards the 
 tail, and the tail in her hand, and repeating the following 
 lines : 
 
 " Here I am, riding on a black ram, 
 
 <c Like a whore as I am ; 
 
 fC And for my crincum crancum 
 
 <c Have loll my bincunt bancum, 
 
 " And for my tail's game, 
 
 " Am brought to this worldly fhame, 
 
 €C Therefore, good Mr. Steward, let me have my lands again " 
 
 At a little diftance from Lambourne, is the mod remark- 
 able curiofity in Berkfhire. This is the rude figure of a 
 white horfe, which takes up near an acre of ground, on the 
 fide of a green hilL A horfe is known to have been the 
 Saxon ftandard ; and fome have fuppofed that this figure was 
 made by Hengifl, one of the Saxon Kings; but Mr. Wife, 
 
BERKSHIRE. 
 
 the author of a letter on this fubje& to Dr. Mead, publifhed 
 in 1738, brings feveral arguments to {hew that it was made by 
 the order of Alfred, in the reign of his brother Ethelred, as 
 a monument of his victory gained over the Danes, in the year 
 871, near Afhdown, now called Ajhen or Ajhbury Park, 
 which is at prefent one of the feats of Lord Craven, and at a 
 little diftance from this hill. Lord Craven's feat was built 
 of the ftones dug out of a Danifli camp, which was formerly 
 formed near this place. 
 
 There are other authors, however, who fuppofe the figure 
 of the white horfe to have been partly the effecT: of accident, 
 and partly the work of fhepherds, who obferving a rude figure, 
 fomewhat refembling a horfe, as there are in the veins of wood 
 and ftone many figures that refemble trees, caves, and other 
 objects, reduced it by degrees to a more regular figure. But 
 however this be, it has been a cuftom immemorial for the 
 neighbouring peafants to afiembleon a certain day about Mid- 
 fummer, and clear away the weeds from this white horfe^ and 
 trim the edges to preferve its colour and ftiape; after which 
 the eveningis fpent in mirth and feftivity. — The hill on which 
 this horfe ftands is called White Horfe Hill ; and to the 
 north of this hill there is a long valley reaching from the 
 weftern fide of the county, where it borders upon Wiltfhire* 
 as far as Wantage, which from this hill is called the Vale of 
 White Horfe, and is the moll fertile part of the county. 
 
 About three miles eaftward of Ilfley is a village called //i- 
 wortb 9 a place of great antiquity, where was formerly a caftle, 
 which was deftroyed in the reign of King Edward the Third. 
 The parifh church is a venerable Gothic ftru&ure, and has in 
 it feveral ancient monuments; among thefe are nine, with the 
 figures of the deceafed cut in ftone, and lying in a fleeping 
 potture ; five of which are fuppofed to have been knights-tem- 
 plars. The church-yard is extremely rural, and has in it one 
 of the fineft yew-trees in England, being no lefs than twenty - 
 feven feet in circumference* 
 
 The village of Bray is about a mile from Maidenhead, and 
 is very famous, both on account of its antiquity, and a former 
 vicar, who was twice a Papift, and twice a Proteirant, in the 
 reigns of Henry the Eighth, Edward the Sixth, and the 
 Queens Mary and Elizabeth. 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 THIS county is bounded by the Thames, .which divides 
 it from Berkfhireon the fouth ; by Oxfordfbire on the 
 weft; by Northamptonshire on the north ; and by Bedford- 
 fhire, Hertfordfhire, and Middlefexon the eaft. It is thirty- 
 nine miles in length, eighteen in breadth, and one hundred 
 and thirty-eight in circumference; and contains eleven mar- 
 ket-towns, eight hundreds, one hundred and eighty-five 
 parifhes, fix hundred and fifteen villages, and about four hun- 
 dred and forty^one thoufand acres. It lies in the province 
 of Canterbury, and diocefe of Lincoln. 
 
 This county is diveriified with pleafant woods, and fine 
 ftreams, which render it a charming retreat. Its chief ri- 
 vers are the Thames, the Oufe, and the Coin. The foil is 
 very fruitful, both in corn and pafture, and abounds with 
 phyfical plants* 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Buckingham is the county town, and is fixty miles from 
 London. It is wafhed on all fides but the north by the river 
 Oufe, over which it has three ftone bridges. The caftle of 
 the town, now in ruins, was built in the middle of it, and 
 divides it into two parts. In the north part ftands the town- 
 hall, a very handfome convenient ftru&ure, in which are kept 
 the weights andmeafures of the county. This town was for 
 many years a ftaple for wool, and feveral of its wool-halls are 
 yet ftanding ; but that trade is now loft here. It is very po- 
 pulous ; and the church, which is in the weft part of the 
 town, is a very large building, and, when its fpire was 
 ftanding, might be reckoned the beft in the whole county, and 
 
 was 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 41 
 
 was as high as moft in England ; but in 1698 was in part 
 blown down, and has never fince been re-built. In the year 
 1725, many of the old buildings in this town were deftroyed 
 by fire, which burnt out 138 families, and did near thirty three 
 thoufand pounds damage. The county-gaol was kept in the 
 caftle here, till it fell to decay ; but a new one has been built ; 
 and by a late aft the fummer affizes, which had been fome- 
 times held at Aylefbury, are always to be held here. This 
 town fends two members to parliament. 
 
 Aylesbury is a very ancient town, forty-four miles from 
 London, and Hands on a rifing ground, at the eaft end of a 
 rich valleys-called Aylefbury- Y ale ^ which feeds incredible num- 
 bers of cattle and fheep, remarkable for their fize and fine 
 fleeces; and extends almoft from Thame on the edge of Ox- 
 fordfhire, to Leighton in Bedfordfhire. The town-hall of 
 Aylefbury is an handfome fabric, in which the county affizes 
 and feffions are often held, and ftands in the middle of the 
 market-place, which is a large handfome fquare. This is a 
 neat, compact, and populous town, the beft and iargeft in 
 Buckinghamfhire, and confifts of feveral fine ftreets. It 
 fends two members to parliament. 
 
 In the reign of William the Norman, Aylefbury was a 
 royal manor, feveral parts of which that King gave to his fa- 
 vourites, to hold of him by the following odd tenure; namely, 
 that they fhould find lifter or ftraw for the King's bed and 
 chambers, and provide him three eels in winter, and three 
 green geefe in fummer, befides herbs for his chamber 5 and 
 this they were to do thrice a year, if the King came hither 
 fo often. 
 
 Some of the principal public edifices in this town were 
 eredted at the expence of Sir John Baldwin, Lord Chief 
 Juftice of the Court of Common Pleas in the reign of 
 Henry the Eighth. He was otherwife a great benefactor to 
 this town, and had a caufeway made from the market-place 
 towards London for the diftance of three miles, at his own 
 coft. 
 
 Eton, though in Buckinghamfhire, may yet be faid to be 
 one and the fame town with Windfor, by the ready commu- 
 nication of a bridge over the river. It is pleafantly fituated 
 on the banks ©f the Thames, in a delightful valley, and 
 
 Vol.. I. F is 
 
4a 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE; 
 
 is in a remarkable healthy foil. It has long been celebrated for 
 the College here, which ha's produced a great number of emi- 
 nent and learned men. Eton College was founded by Henry 
 the Sixth, for the fupportof aprovoft and feven fellows, one 
 of whom is vice-provoft, and for the education of feventy 
 King's fcholars, as thofe are called, who are on the foundation. 
 Thefe when properly qualified, are ele£ied,on the firft Tuef- 
 day in Auguft, to King's College, Cambridge, but they are 
 not removed, till there are vacancies in the College, and then 
 they are called according to feniority ; and after they have 
 been three years at Cambridge, they claim a fellowfhip Be- 
 fides thofe on the foundation, there are feldom lefs than three 
 hundred fcholars, at this time there are many more, who board 
 at the mafters houfes, or within the bounds of the College. 
 The fchool is divided into upper and lower, and each of thefe 
 into three claffes. To each fchool there is a mafter and four 
 affiitants or ufhers. The revenue of the college is about five 
 thoufand pounds a year. Here is a noble library enriched by^ 
 a fine collection of books left by Dr, Waddington, Bifhop of 
 Chefter, valued at two thoufand pounds, and Lord Chief Juf- 
 tice Reeves prefented to this library the colle&ion left him by 
 Richard Topham, Efqj keeper of the records in the Tower* 
 In the great court is a fine ftatue of the founder, ere&ed at 
 the expenceof the late provoft Dr. Godolphin, Dean of St. 
 Paul's. The chapel is in a good ftile of Gothic architecture. 
 The fchools and other parts, which are in another ftyle of 
 building, are equally well, and feetn like the defign of Inigo 
 Jones. 
 
 Hxgh Wiccgmb is thirty-two miles from London, in the 
 road to Oxford. It is fuppofed to derive its name from a 
 fmall fiream, which glides through the low grounds near this 
 place into the Thames. The town has on each fide of it 
 pleafant hills (haded with woods, and may for antiquity, ex- 
 tent, and beauty, compare with the greateft and beft in the 
 county. It is a corporation, governed by a mayor, aldermen, 
 common-council, recorder, and other officers. It has two 
 principal ftreets, one of which is fpacious, and well built 
 with good brick houfes, and full of large inns. Queen Eli- 
 sabeth gave lands for the maintenance of a free-grammar- 
 fchool in this town. The affizes are fometimes held here, 
 and this town fends two members to Parliament* 
 
 Thia 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 43 
 
 This place is fuppofed to have been a Roman ftation ; for 
 in the year 1724, a Roman pavement was difcovered by fome 
 workmen, who were digging in a neighbouring meadow be- 
 longing to Lord Shelburne. It was about nine feet fquare, 
 and confifted of ftonesof various colours, wrought with ex- 
 quifite art ; but the largeft was not broader than the fquare of 
 a die. 
 
 Great Marlow is a borough-town, thirty-one miles 
 from London, which derives its name from the marly foil in 
 which it ftands. It is a confiderable town, with a bridge 
 over the Thames, not far from the phce where it receives the 
 Wycombe river ; and has an handfome church and town hall. 
 The chief manufacture of the town is bone-lace, but it is of 
 more account for the navigation carried on by the Thames for 
 meal, malt, and beech timber. There are feveral corn and 
 paper-mills in its neighbourhood, particularly on the little 
 river Loddon ; and alfo three remarkable mills called 
 Temple Mills, or the brafs mills for making kettles, pans, 
 &c. befides a mill for making thimbles ; and another for pref- 
 fing oil from rape and flax feed. 
 
 Stoney Str atford is fuppofed to derive its name from 
 the ftoney ftreet that runs through it, and the ford where tra- 
 vellers ufed formerly to pafs the Oufe. It is diftant from 
 London, in the road to Chefter, fifty-t wo miles. The town 
 is rather large, and the houfes in general are built of free- 
 ftone, which is dug from a quarry very near the town. The 
 Oufe is now crofled by a ftone bridge at the ford, and fome- 
 times fwells fo high, that it breaks into the neighbouring fields 
 with great violence, efpecially on that fide next the town, the 
 banks on the other fide being fome what higher. This town 
 has two parifh churches, and alfo two chapels, and a fmall 
 charity fchool. In 1743, a fire broke out here, which con- 
 fumed one hundred and fifty houfes,but that damage has been 
 fince repaired, and the town in general makes an handfome 
 appearance. The chief manufacture of the place is bone- 
 lace. 
 
 Amersham is an ancient borough town, fituated in a 
 valley between two woody hills, near the river Coin. It con- 
 (ifts of two ftreets, along one and a fhort one, which crois 
 
 F 2 each 
 
44 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 each other at right angles in the middle; In the area where 
 thefe ftreets interfed each other, ftands the church, which is 
 the beft re&ory in the county. Here is a handfome town- 
 hall and a free-fchool. 
 
 Newport Pagnell is a well-built and populous market- 
 town, and has two ftone bridges over the Oufe. It is a kind 
 of ftaple for bone-lace, of which, it h faid, more is made in 
 this town, and in the neighbouring villages, than in any other 
 town in the kingdom. 
 
 Winslow is a fmall town, furrounded with woods, but 
 has nothing in it remarkable, — In the manor of Crendon 
 near this town, there was an abbey, or priory, for regular ca- 
 nons of the order of St, Auguftine, called Noftekyox Nuttley. 
 It was built and endowed by Walter Giffard, the fecond Earl 
 of Buckingham, and Ermengard his wife, in the year 1 162. 
 Some of the ruins of this abbey are ftill ftanding, and near it 
 are the remains of an ancient caftle. 
 
 Beaconsfield is a market-town in the road to Oxford, 
 and contains feme good inns, but has nothing in it that is 
 very remarkable. 
 
 Fenny Stratford is an ancient market-town, in which 
 there are many good inns,and feveral fine houfes. It is a 
 pleafant and thriving town. 
 
 Oulney is but an inconfiderable town, and has hardly any 
 thing remarkable in it befides its church, which has a very 
 fine fpire* 
 
 Ivingo was formerly a town of great repute, and had a 
 convent of Benedidtinenuns, but it is fo reduced at prefent 
 as to be little better than a village, though it has a kind of 
 weekly market. 
 
 Colebrook, or Colnbrook, part of which is in Buck- 
 inghannihire, and part in Middlesex, is eighteen miles from 
 London. It ftands on four channels of the river Coin, over 
 each of which it has a bridge. The principal fupport of the 
 place are theinns, on account of its being in the Bath road # 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 The market is on Wednefdays, and a fair is held here the 
 third week in April. Here is a charity-fchool, and an ancient 
 chapel, faid to have been founded by King Edward the 
 Third. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 StoW) the celebrated feat of Earl Temple, is about two 
 miles north-weft from Buckingham, well fituated in a fine 
 fpot, which is much more beautiful than any of thefurround- 
 ing country. The houfe is large ; it extends in one line of 
 front for nine hundred feet. A grand flight of ft-ps. defined 
 bv Signior Borfa, ornamented with baluftrades, leads us to 
 the faloon, which is a grand apartment hung with tapeftry, 
 reprefenring the functions of the cavalry. The dimenfions 
 of this room are forty-three feet by twenty-two; the furni- 
 ture is crimfon, ornamented with two marble bufb, a rich ca- 
 binet, and fine china jars. 
 
 The hall is a fpacious room, thirty-fix feet by twenty-two 
 and an half,defigned and painted by Kent. Itscieling is en- 
 riched with the figns of the zodiac, and the walls are adorned 
 with feftoons of flowers, &c. Over the chimney is a curious 
 piece of alto relievo, the ftory of which is Darius's tent. 
 Here are alfo eleven marble bufts properly difpofed. 
 
 The dining-room is a well-proportioned apartment, forty- 
 three feet by twenty-five, in which are fome fine paintings, 
 particularly a dancing at the Duke of Mantua's marriage, by 
 Tintoret, a landfcape by Claude Lorraine, the marriage at 
 Cana by Ba(Tan,and Mofes burying the Egyptian by Pouffin. 
 There are alfo in this room three pieces of ftatuary that de- 
 ferve attention 5 a Narciffus, whpfe attitude is eafy, and the 
 figure elegant ; Vertumnus and Pomona, by Srheemacber; 
 and a Venus and Adonis by Delveau. The Venus is very 
 delicate and beautiful. 
 
 The grand flair cafe is ornamented with iron work, and 
 enriched with three cieling pieces, painted by Sclater; 
 namely, juftice and peace, fame and victory, plenty and 
 conftancy. 
 
 The chapel is wainfeotted with cedar, and has a gallery of 
 the fame, hung with crimfon velvet. Its dimenfions are 
 
 thirty. 
 
46 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 thirty*feven feet by twenty feet ten inches, and twenty-fix feet 
 high. Over the communion table is a fine painting of the 
 refurre&ion, by Tintoret ; and over that is the King's arms, 
 richly carved and ornamented. Above the cedar wainfcot, 
 are the following printings at full length, viz. Mofes and 
 Aaron, St. Peter and St. Paul, the four evangelifts, the afcen- 
 iion, baptifm, and the falutation of the Virgin Mary. The 
 cieling is the fame as in the chapel royal at St. James's, and 
 the cedar wainfcot enriched with elegant carving, by Gib« 
 bons. 
 
 In Lady Temple's dreffing-room, the hangings, chairs, 
 and window curtains, are of fine printed cotton; and there 
 is here a fine old japan cabinet, ornamented with china jars; 
 and a fine view of Pekin over the chimney-piece, by Iolli. 
 
 In her ladyfhip's bed-chamber, the hangings, chairs, &c. 
 are the fame as the Dreffing-room ; with a pi&ure of a Chi- 
 nefe temple over the chimney, by Iolli. 
 
 The Chinefe clofet is the repofitory of her ladyfliip's valu- 
 able china. The japan and ornaments were a prefent from 
 the late Prince and Princefs of Wales. From hence we en- 
 ter a colonade adorned with paintings by Sclater. It is em- 
 bellifhed with exotics and flowering fhrubs. The Grenville 
 room is twenty-nine feet eight inches by twenty-fix feet three 
 inches, and nineteen feet four inches high, is hung with green 
 velvet, and ornamented with portraits at full length of the 
 Grenville family. 
 
 The gallery is a magnificent apartment, feventy-four feet 
 by twenty-five feet, and twenty feet high, with gobelin ta- 
 peftry chairs, and is hung with three fine pieces of tapeftry, 
 viz. a beautiful reprefentation of a farm, a Dutch wake 
 from l eniers, and a Dutch fifhery, from the fame. The 
 two chimnies have pictures or Roman ruins over each, by 
 Pannini. The four doors have rural pictures over each, viz. 
 plowing, reaping, hay-making, and flieep-ftiearing. And 
 a rich cabinet at each end containing books 5 and ten marble 
 bufts of Roman Emperors. 
 
 In the waiting*room are fome fine pictures, particularly 
 Cymon and Iphigenia, by Guerchino ; gold pouring into the 
 mouth of Craffus; by Pouffin; and a very curious piece by 
 Albert Durer, the fubjed Joan of Arc mufing on her expe- 
 dition. 
 
 In 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 +7 
 
 In the private drawing-room is a fiae picture of Samfon* 
 by Rembrandt, the exprefiion of which is very great ; aland- 
 fcape by Claude Loraine ; Rubens's fir ft wife, by Rubens ; 
 Sileno, by the fame ; the Duke of Sully, by Vandyke ; Sam- 
 ion and Delilah, by Guerchino; and a portrait of Oliver 
 Cromwell, by Old Richardfon. 
 
 The ftate gallery is feventy feet long, and twenty-two 
 high, and is a very beautiful room. It is hung with Bruff;ls 
 tapeftry, reprefenting the triumphs of Diana, Mars, Venus, 
 Bacchus, and Ceres. The cieling is ftuccoed in compart- 
 ments, and ornamented with medallions, and paintings in 
 obfcura. 
 
 The ftate bed-chamber is extremely magnificent, the bed 
 and cieling by Signor Borra; and is finely furnifhed with 
 crimfon damaik and gold ornaments. — The ftate clofet is 
 hung with blue damafk, finely ornamented with carving and 
 gilding ; out of which we go into a colonade, where is a 
 beautiful view of the gardens and the country. The paffags 
 is ornamented with marble bufts. 
 
 The gardens at Stow have long been confidered as the moft 
 magnificent in England, and have always been admired by 
 perfons of tafte ; and have therefore a natural claim to a par- 
 ticular defcription in our work. The fouthern entrance of 
 the gardens is formed by two pavilions of the Doric order,de- 
 figned by Sir John Vanbrugh $ the walls of which are adorned 
 with paintings, in frefco, the ftories taken from Paftor Fido. 
 Almoft the firft ftriking obje£l that occurs in the gardens, is 
 an obelifk near feventy feet high, defigned for ajet de eau, and 
 placed in the middle of a large octagon piece of water. At 
 fome diftance we perceive two rivers, which are at laft united, 
 and enter the octagon in one ftream. Over one of thefe is a 
 Palladian bridge. From this point a Gothic temple, feventy 
 feet in height, appears on the top of an hill. On the left is 
 an Egyptian pyramid ; from whence we are conducted to the 
 cold bath. Here we have a profpect of a natural cafcade, 
 failing from the laft-mentioned octagon, in three diftmdt 
 fheets, into an extenfive lake. One of the fheets palies 
 through the arch of an artificial ruin, covered with ever- 
 greens. 
 
 Thefe noble gardens contain a great variety of elegant edi- 
 fices and decorations. The building called the hermitage is 
 built of rough ftone, and agreeably fituated in a rifing wood 
 
43 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.] 
 
 on the banks of the lake; not far from which are theftatues 
 of Cain and Abel, finely executed. The temple of Venus 
 is a fquare building, with colonade wings, It was defigned 
 by Kent, and is painted with the ftory of Hdlenore and Mai- 
 becco, from Spenfer's Fairy Queen. The room is adorned 
 with a naked Venus ; and the fmailer compartments with a 
 variety of intrigues. Upon the frieze is the following motto 
 from Catullus ; 
 
 Nunc amet qui nunquam amavit ; 
 
 Quique ama<vet> nunc amet. 
 
 Let him love now, who never lov'd before : 
 
 Let him, who always lov'd, now love the more. 
 
 Underneath the belvidere, or Gibbes's buil'ding, is an ice- 
 houfe ; at fome diftance from which are the Roman boxers, 
 admirably copied. Here are alfo two pavilions, one of which 
 is ufed as a dwelling houfe ; and the other is ornamented with 
 the ftatues of Julius Casfar, Cicero, Portia, and Livia. 
 
 The Egyptian pyramid, which was before-mentioned, and 
 which is fixty feet in height, has a Latin infeription to the fol- 
 lowing purpofe: 4C To the memory of Sir John Vanbrugh, 
 46 by whom feveral of the buildings in thefe gardens werede- 
 46 figned, Lord Cobham ere&ed this pyramid." 
 
 In a field, enclofed with a fence of flakes, after the military 
 manner, are the (tatues of Hercules and Antaeus. St. Au> 
 guftine'scave is a monaftic cell, built with mofs and roots: 
 within is a ftraw couch, and feveral Latin inicriptions, in the 
 ftile of the old Monkifti Latin verfe. The temple of Bacchus 
 is an edifice of brick, the infide of which is adorned with 
 Bacchanalian fcenes, painted by Nollikins ; and here are two 
 vafes in a very mafteriy tafte. The baxon temple is an al- 
 tar iituated in an open grove, about which the feven Saxon 
 deities, which denominate the feveral days of the week, were 
 formerly placed ; but thefe have fince been removed to the 
 Gothic temple. 
 
 Nelfon's feat is an elegant little building, from whence there 
 is an agreeable open profpect, In the iniide are fome paint- 
 ings, with inicriptions. At the head of the canal, oppofite 
 the norm front of the houfe, is an equeftrian ftatue of King 
 George the Firft, in compleat armour. There is alfo a ftatue 
 of his late Majefty, King George the Second, raifed on a 
 
 Corinthian 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 Corinthian pillar. And in a rural amphitheatre is a ftatue of 
 Queen Caroline, erected on four Ionic columns. 
 
 Dido's cave is a retired dark building with this infcriptioa 
 from Virgil : 
 
 " Speluncam Dido, Dux et Trojanus, eandem, 
 €€ Deveniunt. 
 
 " Repairing to the fame dark cave arefeen, 
 " The Trojan Hero, and the Tyrian Queen. " 
 
 The rotunda, which was defigned by Sir John Vanbrugh, 
 is fupported by Ionic pillars. Within, is a ftatue of Venus 
 de Medicis on a pedeftal of blue marble. Scarcely any object 
 in the whole garden fhews itfelf to more advantage, than this 
 ftrudlure ; or makes a more beautiful figure, from feveral dif- 
 ferent points of profpedt. 
 
 The fleeping parlour is a fquare building, with an elegant 
 Ionic portico, fituated in a clofe wood, with this Epicurean in- 
 fcription : Cum omnia Jint in incerto^fave tibi\ i. e. Since all 
 things are uncertain, indulge thyfelf. The witch-houfe is a 
 kind of hut, on the walls of which is roughly painted the 
 midnight merriment of hags. 
 
 The temple of ancient virtue is a compleat ajnd beautiful ro- 
 tunda of the Ionic order, defigned by Kent. Over each door 
 on the outfide, is this motto : " Prifca Virtuti To ancient 
 virtue. It is adorned with ftatues of JLycurgus, Socrates, 
 Homer, and Epaminondas,under which are Latin infcriptions 
 to the following purpofe: 
 
 Lycurgus, having planned with confummate wifdom a con- 
 ftitution, fecured againft every inroad of corruption, this truly 
 great father of his country bequeathed to his citizens a laft- 
 ing liberty ; luxury being kept out by the difufe of wealth. 
 
 Socrates, innocent amidft corruption, an encourager of good 
 men, a worfhipper of one God, the wifeit of men, delivered 
 philofophy from an idle fcholaftic life,anu introduced her into 
 fociety, to amend mankind. 
 
 Homer, the firft as well as beft of poets, whofe genius fub- 
 fervient wholly to the caufe of virtue, inftructed mankind, by 
 a language univerfally known, in the godlike arts of daring 
 and fuffering heroically. 
 
 Epaminondas, by whofe courage, prudence, and modera- 
 tion, the Theban commonwealth obtained liberty and empire, 
 
 Vol. I. G an 
 
5° 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 an happy eftablifiimentas well civil as military : and by whofe 
 death it loft them, 
 
 Over one of the doors of this edifice is alfo the following 
 infcription : <€ Charum ejfe civem^ bene de republica mereri 9 
 f6 laudari, coli % diligi, gloriofum eft : metui vero y et in odio 
 ** ejfe* invidiofum, detejlabile^ imbecillum y caducum /. e. 
 To be dear to our country and to deferve well of the ftate, to 
 be honoured, Teverenced, and loved, is truly glorious; but to 
 be dreaded and hated of mankind isbafe,deteftable, weak, im- 
 politick. 
 
 Over the other door is as follows : " Juftitiam cole et pie- 
 u tateniy qua cum fit magna in parentibus et propinquis, turn in 
 <c patria maxima eft* Ea vita via eft in ccelum, et in hunc 
 
 catum eorum qui jam vixerunt /, e. An affection for our 
 friends and relations is amiable ; but for our country divine. 
 This is the path to future happinefs, and the affembly of thofe 
 who have already lived. 
 
 From the temple of ancient virtue, you look down on a 
 very beautiful winding hollow lawn, fcattered with fingle 
 trees in thehappieft manner, through the ftemsof which the 
 water breaks to the eye in a ftile admirably piciurefque. Near 
 to this temple in a thicket, is the temple of modern virtue, fa- 
 tirically reprefented in ruins. 
 
 The gardens continue extremely various and beautiful, till 
 you come to the Princes Amelia's arch, from which you at 
 once break upon a fcenery truly enchanting ; being more like 
 a rich piflurefque compofition, than the effedi of an artful 
 management of ground and buildings. The lawn from the 
 arch, falls in various waves into the water, at the bottom of 
 the vale : it is fcattered with trees, whofe fpreading tops unite, 
 and leav^ the eye an irregular command among their ftems of 
 a double wave on the lake. The fmooth green of the lawn, 
 obfcured in fome places by theftiade of the trees, in others il- 
 luminated by the fun, forms an objc£t as beautiful as can 
 be imagined ; nor can any thing be more pidiurefque 
 than the water appearing through the fore-ground of the 
 fcene, thus canopied with trees. A break in the grove 
 prefents a compleat pifture above thefe beautiful varieties of 
 wood and water : firft, the Palladian-bridge, backed by a 
 riling ground fcattered with wood ; and at the top of that a 
 caftle. The objedls of the whole fcene, though various, and 
 fome diftant, are cnoft happily united to form a compleat view, 
 
 > cquaJl/ 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 5i 
 
 equally magnificent and pleafmgj indeed it is the richeft that 
 is feen at Stow. 
 
 The Palladian bridge is adorned with feveral antique mar- 
 ble buftos. The roof on the fide facing the water, is fup« 
 ported by Ionic pillars. The back wall is covered with a fine 
 piece of Alto Relievo, which reprefents the four quarters of 
 the world bringing their various produ&s to Britannia. Here 
 are alfo paintings of Sir Walter Raleigh, with a map of Vir- 
 ginia ; and of William Penn, prefenting the laws of Penn- 
 sylvania. 
 
 After crofling the ferpentine river, we pafs into the ely- 
 fian fields, a moft delicious retreat, confifting of beautiful 
 waves of clofe fhaven grafs ; breaking among wood, and 
 Scattered with fingle trees ; bounded on one fide by thick 
 groves, and (helving on the other down to the water, which 
 winds in a very happy manner; and commanding from feve- 
 ral fpots, various landfcapes of the diftant parts of the gar- 
 dens. 
 
 The temple of Britifh worthies, is a femi-circular wall, 
 adorned with the following buftos and inscriptions : 
 
 Sir Thomas Greftiam, who by the honourable profeflion of 
 a merchant having enriched himfelf and his country, for car- 
 rying on the commerce of the world, built the Royal Ex- 
 change. 
 
 Ignatius^Jones, who, to adorn his country, introduced and 
 rivalled the Greek and Roman architedure. 
 
 John Milton, whofe fublime and unbounded genius equal- 
 led a fubjedt that carried him beyond the limits of the world. 
 
 William Shakefpeare, whofe excellent genius opened to 
 him the whole heart of man, all the mines of fancy, all the 
 ftores of nature, and gave him power, beyond all other wri- 
 ters, to move, aftonifh, and delight mankind. 
 
 John Locke, who, beft of all philofophers, underftood the 
 powers of the human mind, the nature, end, and bounds of 
 civil government ; and with equal courage and fagacity, re- 
 futed the flavifh fyftems of ufurped authority over the rights, 
 theconfeiences, and thereafonof mankind. 
 
 Sir Ifaac Newton, whom the God of nature made to com- 
 prehend his works ; and from fimple principles, to difcover 
 the laws never known before, and to explain the appearances, 
 never underftood, of this ftupendous univerfe. 
 
 G 2 Sir 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 Sir Francis Bacon, Lord Verulam ; who, by the flrength 
 and light of a fuperior genius, rejefling vain fpeculation, and 
 fallacious 'heory, taught to purfue truth, and improve philo- 
 sophy by the certain method of experiment. 
 
 King Alfred, the mildeft,jufteft, moft beneficent of Kings ; 
 who drove out the Danes, fecured the feas, protected learning, 
 eftablifhed juries, crufhed corruption, guarded liberty, and 
 was the founder of the Knglifli conftitution. 
 
 Edward, Prince of Wales, the terror of Europe, the de- 
 light of England; who preferved unaltered, in the height of 
 glory and fortune, his natural gentienefs and modefly. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth, who confounded the proje&s, and de- 
 ftroyed the power that threatened to opprefs the liberties of 
 Europe; took off the yoke of ecclefiaftical tyranny, reftored 
 religion from the corruptions of Popery : and, by a wife, a 
 moderate, and a popular government, gave wealth, Security, 
 and rtfpeft to England. 
 
 King William the Third, who by his virtue, and con- 
 ftancy, having faved his country from a foreign matter, by a 
 bold and generous enterprize, preferved the liberty and reli- 
 gion of Great Britain. 
 
 Sir Walter Raleigh, a valiant foldier, and an able ftatef- 
 man ; who, endeavouring to roufe the fpirit of his matter, for 
 the honour of his country* againft the ambition of Spain, 
 fell afacrifice to the influence of that court, whofe arms he 
 had vanquished, and whofe defigns he had oppofed* 
 
 Sir Francis Drake, who, through many perils, was the firft 
 of Britons who ventured to fail round the globe; and carried 
 into unknown feas and nations the knowledge and glory of 
 the Englifh name. 
 
 John Hampden, who with great fpirit and ccnfummate 
 abilities, began a noble oppofition to an arbitrary court, in de- 
 fence of the liberties of his country ; fupported them in par- 
 liament, and died for them in the field, — There are alfo in 
 this temple butts of Mr. Pope, and Sir John Barnard. 
 
 In the nich of a pyramid is placed a Mercury, with thefe 
 words infcribed, Campos duett ad Elyjios; i. e. Leads to the 
 clyfian-fields. And below this figure is fixed a fquare of 
 black marble, on which are the following lines : 
 
 " Hie manus ob patriam pugnando uulnera pajfi, 
 et Siuique pit vates, $t Pbabo digna keuti, 
 
 " Invnitas 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 53 
 
 *< Invent as aut qui wham ex cohere per artes, 
 P* Quique fui memores alios fecere merendo. 
 <c Heroes are here, who for their country bled, 
 <c And bards whofe pure and facred verfe is read ; 
 «« Thofe who, by arts invented, lifeimprov'd, 
 cc And public merit made their mem'ries lov'd. 
 
 The Chinefe houfe is fituated, after the Chinefe manner, 
 upon a large piece of water. We enter it by a bridge, deco- 
 rated with Chinefe vafes. It is a fquare building, with four 
 lattices, and covered with fail-clotb. The windows and roof, 
 together with its cool fituation on the lake, afford us a juffc 
 fpecimer of the manner of li ving in a hot country. Within 
 is the figure of a Chinefe lady afleep. The outfide of the 
 houfe is painted in the Chinefe tafte, and the infide is India 
 Japan work. 
 
 The grotto, fituated at the head of the ferpentine river, is 
 furnifhed with a great number of look ing-gl a fles, both on the 
 walls and cielings, fixed in frames of plaifter- work, ftuck with 
 (hells and flints. It has a marble frame of Venus, on a pe- 
 deftal adorned in the fame manner. On each fide is a pavi- 
 lion ; one of which is ornamented with fhells, the other with 
 broken flints and pebbles. 
 
 The ladies ternpie is fupported by arches, with Venetian 
 windows. The infide is beautified with the following paint- 
 ings by Sclater : On the right fide, ladies employed in needle 
 and (hell-work ; on the oppofite fide, ladies employed in 
 painting and mufic. 
 
 The late Anne, Vifcountefs Cobham, ere&ed in thefe gar- 
 dens, fluted columns, to the memory of her hufband Lord 
 Cobham ; on one fide of which are the follo wing lines : 
 
 4e £>uatenus nobis denegatur diu ytvere, 
 
 " Relhiquamus aliquid, 
 " Quo nos <vixijfe iejiemur. ; 
 
 t( As we cannot livelong, 
 ** Let us leave fomeching behind us, 
 " To £hew that we have lived. 
 
 Palling by this column, from whence is a view through the 
 wood of the temple of concord, you come by winding walks 
 to the banquetting-room, from whence is a fine varied pro* 
 fpeft} and the Corinthian arch appears to advantage. From 
 
 hence 
 
54 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE 
 
 hence you are conduced to the temple of concord and vi&ory, 
 and in the way, pafs a moft beautiful winding hollow lawn ; 
 the brows of all the furrounding Hopes, finely fpread with 
 woods, thick in fome places,and in others fcattered fo as to open 
 for the eye to follow the bends of the lawn, which is every 
 where different. The temple is excellently fituated on the 
 brow of one of the hills : it is a very fine building ; an ob- 
 long totally furrounded by a colonade of well-proportioned 
 pillars. The architecture is light and pleafing. 1 here is a 
 room here, ornamented with a ftatue of liberty, and feveral 
 medallions in the walls. 
 
 From hence the walk leads next to a fequeftered winding 
 vale, finely furrounded with wood; and a fmall water takes 
 its courfe through it, broken by woody iflands, and a various 
 obfcured ftiore. At the head, the grotto of fhells looks dovto 
 on the water in a pleafing manner ; and muft be particularly 
 beautiful when the woods and waters are illuminated ; which 
 they are when Lord Temple fups in it. Here is a ftatue of 
 Venus rifing from the bath ; a pleafing ftatue, and the atti- 
 tude naturally taken. 
 
 The imperial clofet is a fquare room, in which are painted 
 infrefco, the Emperors Titus, Trajan, and Antoninus; each 
 of whom is refpe£tively diftinguifhed by a memorable faying 
 of his own, fixed over him, as follows : 
 
 " Imp. Titus Caef. Vefpafian. 
 €€ Diem perdldi — I have loft a day. 
 
 " Imp. N. Trajan Caef. Au. 
 
 €t Pro me : Ji merear, in me. 
 *' For me — if I deferve it, againft me*. 
 (Alluding to his fword.) 
 
 <s Imp. Marcus Aurelius Caefar Antoninus. 
 
 <c It a regnes imp er at or ,ut privatus regi ie <velis % 
 " So govern, being an Emperor, as you would wifti 
 " to be governed, if a fubject. 
 
 A grand terrace, near three hundred feet long, leads us to 
 the temple of friendfhip; which is a well proportioned ftruc- 
 ture of the Doric order. The emblem of friendfhip over 
 
 the 
 
 * This noble fentimerit of Trajan's, that the fword of juftice ought to be 
 employed for him if he governed well, but againjl him if he governed ill, is 
 what few modem Princes would have the magnanimity to aflent to. 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE, 
 
 55 
 
 the door, thofe of juftice and liberty, with the reft of the de- 
 corations, are elegantly touched. Britannia is feated upon the 
 cieling. On the one fide are exhibited the ^lory of her an- 
 nals, the reigns of Edward the Third and Queen Elizabeths 
 On the other is offered the reign of * * * *, which (lie co- 
 vers with her mantle, and feems unwilling to accept. — Here 
 are alfo the bufts of the late Lord, and his illuftrious friends ; 
 viz. Frederick Prince of Wales ; the Earls of Chefterneld, 
 Weftmoreland, and Marchmont ; the Lords Bathurfi and 
 Gower; the late Earls of Chatham and Temple, and the 
 good Lord Lyttleton. 
 
 There is likewife in thefe gardens a monument ere&ed to 
 the memory of Congreve ; the embelliihments of which are 
 emblematical of that celebrated poet's comic genius. And 
 alfo another monument erected by Lord Cobham, in honour 
 of his nephew Captain Thomas Grenville, who was killed 
 bravely fighting againft the French, in a fleet commanded by 
 Admiral Anfon. 
 
 There is in Stow Gardens fo great a variety of beauties, 
 that the fpeftator, whofemind is capable of bein^ moved, ei- 
 ther with grace or majeily, cannot, without reluctance, leave 
 a place fo properly calculated to inform the judgement, and 
 intereft the fancy ; where art appears without affectation, and 
 nature without extravagance. 
 
 Cliefden-Houfe is five miles north*weft of Windfor, and is 
 remarkable, both on account of its moft beautiful fituation, 
 and alfo becaufe it was the ordinary refidence of the late 
 Prince of Wales, father to the prefent King. The houfe 
 was built by George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, in the 
 reign of King Charles the Second, and came by marriage of 
 the heirefs of that family to the late Earl of Orkney, who 
 greatly improved both the houfe and gardens, which were alfo 
 farther extended and enlarged by the late Prince of Wales* 
 and made moft delightful, infomuch that wherever the eye is 
 turned, nothing offers to the fight but the moft agreeable ave- 
 nues, parterres, and fine lawns, and thefe heightened by an. 
 extenfive view of the river Thames, and a moft beautiful and 
 well cultivated country : the houfe is a ftateiy regular edi- 
 fice,and the rooms fpacious and noble : in the grand chamber 
 the tapeftry hangings reprefent the battles of the late Duke of 
 Marlborough, wrought to great perfection* by order of the 
 
 lat* 
 
56 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 late Earl of Orkney, who was himfelf an officer of fuperior 
 rank in thofe glorious campaigns; on the front of the houfe 
 is raifed a moft noble terrace or walk, which is faid to be 
 higher than the terrace of Windfor Caftle; it is certain, the 
 profpe£i here is equally extenfive and beautiful, 
 
 Ditton Park is an ancient and venerable manfion, fituated 
 in the parifh of Datchet, and was built by Sir Ralph Win- 
 wood, Secretary of State to King James the Firft* It came 
 afterwards into thefamily of Montagu, and on the death of 
 the late Duke, this houfe and manor of Datchet came to the 
 Dutchefs of Manchefter, eldeft daughter and joint heirefs to 
 that noble family The houfe is built in the form of a caftle, 
 furrounded by a large moat of water, and in the middle of a 
 pleafant park, well planted with timber; the apartments are 
 large, and beautifully painted, and in the pi&ure gallery is a 
 good colleflion of paintings, many of them by the firft maf- 
 ters. Lord Beaulieu married the Dutchefs of Manchefter* 
 and has much improved the houfe and gardens. 
 
 There are alfo feveral other fine feats in this neighbourhood 5 
 particularly Langley Park, the feat of the Duke of Marlbo- 
 rough. The houfe is a noble edifice built by the late Duke, 
 all of ftone, has commodious offices, and is moft agreeably 
 defigned, fituated in a large park, with fhady walks, and has a 
 beautiful lawn and canal : the banquetting-houfe on therifing 
 ground of the park, adds to the profpedl from the terrace of 
 Windfor Caftle. 
 
 At a fmall diftance is Percy Lodge, the feat of the Earl of 
 Tankerville. This was the refidence of the late Dutchefs of 
 Somerfet, after the deceafe of the Duke. The gardens and 
 park are large, and beautifully defigned. 
 
 Langley-Green, Wexham, and Stoke-Green are in this neigh- 
 bourhood. In the firft mentioned green, Lord Granard has 
 lately built a commodious and elegant feat; and in thefe vil- 
 lages are mzny agreeable houfes of gentlemen of fortune, 
 who conftantly refide here : In the laft mentioned green Ge- 
 neral Howard has a moft pleafant feat and gardens. 
 
 Stoke-Houfe lately belonged to the Lady Cobham, but on 
 her deceafe was purchafed by Mr. Penn, one of the proprie- 
 tors 
 
BUCKINGHAMSHIRE* 
 
 57 
 
 tors and governors of Pennfylvania. It is an ancient and no- 
 ble edifice, with a large and pleafant park; and adjoining to 
 the houfe is the parifli church of Stoke, and a neat hofpital, 
 built and endowed by a Countefs of Huntingdon, for the 
 fupport and maintenance of twelve old and indigent perfons 
 of both fexes. The fcite of this ancient hofpital has of late 
 been removed, and a new one built in an adjoining conveni- 
 ent part of the neighbourhood, by Mr. Penn. 
 
 Bailey's, not far from hence, is an agreeable feat belonging 
 to the Earl of Godolphin. 
 
 Farnham and Eajl-Burnham are pleafant villages* and have 
 many agreeable houfes and villas, particularly the elegant 
 houfe and gardens of Mr. Charles Eyre. Near Burnham is 
 Hitch am Houfe, fituated in a valley, which was formerly the 
 country refidence of that learned phyfician, Dr. Friend, to 
 whofe family it at prefent belongs, but is now in the pofleffion 
 of Lady Windfor. The gardens are large, and well de- 
 figned $ and in the hall is an original painting of the late 
 Queen Caroline, which that Princefs prefented to Dr. 
 Friend. 
 
 The village of Taploe, which is not far diftant, is of fo 
 pleafant a fituation, that it has caufed many gentlemen of 
 fortune of late to refide here, who have built very agreeable 
 houfes. The manor-houfe on the fummit of the hill is an 
 ancient and noble building, and enjoys a moft beautiful pro- 
 fpe£t over the country, and the river Thames, which runs 
 underneath. This houfe belongs to the Earl of inchiquin, 
 who refided here during the life of the late Prince of Wales j 
 but on his highnefs's death, his lordfhip removed to Cliefdea 
 Houfe. 
 
 Undercombe is the agreeable feat of Thomas Eyre, Efq; and 
 here are alfo the ruins of the ancient nunnery of Burnnam. 
 It was of the order of St. Auftin, and confifted of an abbefs, 
 and feven or eight nuns. It was founded by Richard, King 
 of the Romans, in the year 1 165, and dedicated to the Virgin 
 Mary. 
 
 Dawney Court is the feat of Sir Charles Palmer, Bart, of 
 the lamily of Roger Palmer, Earl of Cafilemain, who was 
 Vol, I. H fent 
 
5 8 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 
 
 fent by King James the Second on the coftly embafly to Rome 
 in the year 1687 ; and the magnificent ftate-coach, madeufc 
 of by that nobleman on that ignominious occafion, was many 
 years kept here. 
 
 Monk's Rijborough is only remarkable for the antiquities in 
 its neighbourhood ; particularly an old fortification, called 
 Bellinus's caftle ; and fome trenches and fortifications fup- 
 pofed to have been made when the Romans were in Britain. 
 And not far from Monk's Rifborough, there is a high fteep 
 chalky hill, on the fouth-weft fide of which there is the 
 figure of a crofs, an hundred feet long, formed by trenches 
 cut into the chalk about two feet deep, which is fuppofed to 
 be the work of the Saxons. — Near Monk's Rifborough is 
 Prince's Rijborough , whereon the top of a hill are the traces 
 of a camp 5 and it is faid that thirteen counties may be feen 
 from hence, 
 
 About four miles from Ivingo is the pleafant village of 
 SJhbridge^ which is delightfully fituated. The Duke of 
 Bridgewater has a fine houfe and gardens here, with parks well 
 liored with all forts of game Vaft numbers of cattle are 
 fed in the neighbourhood of Afhbridge, particularly fheep, 
 whofe fleeces are equal, if not fuperior, to any other in 
 England. 
 
 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 THIS county is bounded on the weft by Huntingdonfhire 
 and Bedfordfhire; on the fouth by Hertfordfhire and 
 EfTex ; on the north by Lincolnfhire ; and on the eaft by 
 Norfolk and Suffolk. It extends about forty miles from 
 north to fouth, and from eaft to weft about twenty-five. It 
 is divided into feventeen hundreds, and contains one city and 
 eight market-towns, one hundred and fixty-three parifties, 
 about two hundred and feventy-nine villages, and five hun- 
 dred and feventy thoufand acres. 
 
 The face of this county affords great variety ; and a con- 
 fiderable tra£l of land in it is diftinguifhed by the name of the 
 Ifle of Ely, It confifts of fenny ground, divided by innu- 
 merable channels and drains, and is part of a very fpacious 
 level, containing three hundred thoufand acres of land, and 
 extending from this county into Norfolk, Suffolk, Hunting- 
 donfhire, Northamptonfliire, and Lincolnfhire. The Ifle of 
 Ely is the northern divifion of the county, and extends fouth- 
 ward almoft as far as Cambridge. The whole level of which 
 this is part, is bounded on one fide by the fea, and on the 
 others by uplands, which, taken together, form a kind of rude 
 femi-circle, refembling a horfe-fhoe. As this part of the 
 county is all meadow and fen ground, vaft herds of cattle are 
 bred here ; and the numerous lakes, rivers, and canals, which 
 divide the fens, abound in fi(h and wild-fowl, and give the 
 inhabitants an eafy communication with feveral counties, as 
 well as with the fea, which occafions a very brifk trade here. 
 On the eaft part of the county are thofe fine downs, which 
 goby the name of Newmarket-heath, and Gogmagog-hills $ 
 and on the weft, towards Royfton, are downs no lefs extenfive, 
 intermixed with corn fields. 
 
 The chief rivers are, the Grant, the Oufe, and the Nen, 
 which run generally from weft to eaft, and having received 
 feveral lefler itreams in their courfe, fall into the German fea 
 
 H 2 near 
 
bo CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 near Lynn in Norfolk. The tide runs with fuch violence 
 up the Nen, as far as Wifbeach, about either equinox, that 
 it will overfet any boat in the way of it ; and the fait waves 
 dafhing againft each other, in the night time appear like 
 ftreams of fire: this is generally called the Eager, from the 
 impetuofity of its courfe. The little river Cam runs through 
 the county, from fouth to north, and falls into the Oufe at 
 Streatham-mere, near Thetford, by Ely. 
 
 The principal commodities of Cambridgefhire are corn, malt, 
 cattle, butter, faffron, colefeed, hemp, fifh, and wild-fowl. 
 The wild-fowl are taken in decoys, placed convenient for 
 catching them, into which they are led by tame ducks that 
 are trained for that purpofe; and in the Ifle of Ely there is 
 fuch plenty of thefe birds, that three thoufand couple are faid 
 to befent to London every week. The principal manufac- 
 tures of this county are paperand wicker-ware. This county 
 fends fix members to the Houfe of Commons, viz. two knights 
 of the fhire, two reprefentatives for the Univerfity, and two 
 burgeffes for the town of Cambridge. 
 
 CITY. 
 
 The ancient city of ELY is fixty-nine miles from London, 
 fituated in the fenny part of Cambridgefhire, called the Ifle of 
 Ely ; and being furrounded by the Oufe and other ftreams, is 
 unhealthy, though it ftands on a rifing ground. It is go- 
 verned bythebifhop, who has not only the ecclefiafiical, but 
 civil jurifdiflion 5 and though a city, it is not reprefented in 
 Parliament ; two particulars in which it differs from every 
 other city in the kingdom. The fovereignty of Ely was fet- 
 tled upon thebifhopby Henry the Firft, who alfo made Cam- 
 bridgefhire his diocefe, which before was part of the diocefe 
 of Lincoln. From this time the bifhop appointed a judge 
 to determine all caufes, whether civil or criminal, thatfhould 
 arife within his ifle, till the time of Henry the Eighth, who 
 took that privilege away; and therefore the bifhop's power 
 in civil affairs is now much curtailed. 
 
 The city of Ely is neither beautiful nor populous. The % 
 cathedral and bifhop's palace are its chief ornaments ; the 
 former has a remarkable dome and lanthorn, fuppofed to be 
 the only work of its kind in Europe, which feems to totter 
 
 With 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 61 
 
 with every guft of wind. The church is four hundred feet 
 high,has a tower at the weft end of it, about two hundred feet 
 high, and was a monaftery in the time of the Saxons, The 
 chief ftreet, which is on the eaft fide of the city, is full of 
 Iprings, which generally overflow from one to another, all the 
 way down the hill. This city is fo encompafTed with gar- 
 dens,that all the country-towns in the neighbourhood, efpe- 
 cially Cambridge and St. Ives, are fupplied with garden fluff 
 from hence. They are particularly noted for vaft quantities 
 of ftrawberries, 
 
 MARKET- TOWNS. 
 
 Cambridge is the county-town, and is fituatedontheriver 
 Cam, which divides the town into two parts, that are joined 
 by a large ftone bridge. It is fifty-two miles from London, 
 and is a very ancient town, being well known in the time of 
 the Romans by the name of Camboritum* William the Nor- 
 man built a caftle here, of which the gate-houfe is ftill {land- 
 ing, and ufed for the county gaol. There are fourteen pa- 
 rifhes in this town, about twelve hundred houfes,and the in- 
 habitants are computed at fix thoufand. The government 
 of the town is vefted in a mayor, high-fteward, recorder, 
 twelve aldermen, twenty-four common-council-men, with a 
 town-clerk, and other officers. The market-place is lituated 
 in the middle of the town ; and the fhire-hail, which was 
 erected at the expence or the nobility and gentry of the 
 county, is eighty feet in length, thirty-four in breadth, and 
 thirty-three in height. The ancient town-hall is atthe back 
 of the fhire-hall ; and in the market -place is a pillar of the 
 Ionic order, called thecrofs, on the top of which is a globe 
 gilt. In the front of the town-hall ftands an handfome ftone 
 conduit, inclofed with iron pallifades, to which water is 
 brought by an aqueduct, which was firft erected by the fa- 
 mous Hobfon, the Cambridge carrier, whom Milton has ce- 
 lebrated in his poems, and who is faid to have taen the firft 
 perfon whoever let hackney horfes in England. There has 
 lately been erected here a large houfe, for a county hofpitai, 
 on which four thoufand pounds have been expended, purfu- 
 ant to the will of Dr. Addenbroke, late fellow of Catherine 
 Hall, who left it to the cars of truftees. 
 
 Cambridge 
 
6z CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 Cambridge is about a mile in length, from fouth to norths 
 and about half a mile broad in the middle. When the town 
 is viewed from the weft the profpedl is exceedingly magnifi- 
 cent, as the colleges with their fine groves, gardens, and in- 
 clofures, all prefent themfelves to the eye ; and the fituation 
 on the banks of the river, which looks like an artificial canal, 
 with the feveral bridges over it, all confpire to heighten the 
 beauty of the fcene. 
 
 The Univerfity here isoneof the moft flourifliing feminaries of 
 learning in the world, and is particularly diftinguifhed for the 
 great attention that is paid here to the cultivation of natural 
 knowledge, together with all the different branches of the 
 mathematics. It is governed by a chancellor, a high-ftew- 
 ard, two pro&ors, and two taxors. All thefe officers are 
 chofen by the Univerfity. The chancellor is always a peer 
 of the realm, and generally continues in his office for life, by 
 the tacit confent of the Univerfity, though a new choice may 
 be made every three years. As the chancellor is a perfon of 
 fo high a rank, it is not expe&ed or intended, that he fhould 
 execute the office 5 but he has not the power of appointing 
 his fubftitute : a vice-chancellor is chofen annually, on the 
 third of November, by the Univerfity $ he is always the head 
 of fome college, the heads of the colleges returning two of 
 their body, of which the Univerfity elects one. The high- 
 fteward is chofen by the fenate, and holds his place by a pa- 
 tent from the Univerfity. The pro&ors and taxors are alfo 
 chofen every year from the feveral colleges and halls by turns. 
 It is the bufinefs of the pro&ors to infpedt into the behaviour 
 of the ftucients ; and they, in conjun&ion with the taxors, 
 regulate the weights and meafures ufed in the markets. Here 
 are alfo two moderators, twofcrutators, a commiffary, a pub- 
 lic orator, two public librarians, a regifter, a fchool keeper, 
 three efquire beadles, eighteen profeffors, with a yeoman bea- 
 dle, who attends on all publicoccafions, and the caput, which 
 confifts of .he vice-chancellor, a dodior of divinity, a doflor 
 of laws, a doctor of j hyfic, a regent, a non-regent, and a 
 mafter of arts, chofen annually on the 12th of Odober. 
 
 The Univerfity confifts of twelve colleges and four halls ; 
 but though they are diftinguifhed by different names, the 
 privileges of the colleges and halls are in every refpedt the 
 fame. — As to the antiquity of the Univerfity of Cambridge, 
 we have no account of it generally allowed to be authentic, 
 
 that 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 63 
 
 that goes further back than the reign of Henry the Firft, who 
 fucceeded William Rufus in Auguft 1100. About this time 
 the monaftery of Croyland, in Lincolnfhire, being confumed 
 by fire, Geoffrey the abbot, who was poffeffed of the manor 
 of Catenham, near Cambridge, fent thither Giflebert, his 
 profeffor of divinity, and three other monks. Thefe monks 
 being well (killed in philofophy and the fciences, went daily 
 to Cambridge, where they hired a barn, and read public lec- 
 tures. A number of fcholars were foon brought together, 
 and in lefs than two years were fo multiplied, that there was 
 not a houfe, barn, or church in the place, large enough to 
 hold them. Inns and halls were foon built far the accommo- 
 dation of ftudents. But many of the fcholars ufed to board 
 and lodge with the houfekeepers in the town, and attended 
 the lectures of the different profeflbrs, in the halls which 
 were built for that purpofe. And there is a hall now re- 
 maining, ftill called Pythagoras's-fchool, fituated on the weft 
 lide of the river, which was one of the firft ufed for the be- 
 fore-mentioned purpofe, and which is the only one now left 
 undemoliflied. It was in this hall thatErafmus read his lec- 
 tures on the Greek language. But we now proceed ta 
 give an account of the feveral colleges and halls in their pre- 
 fent ftate. 
 
 Peter Houfe College was founded in 1257, * n the reign of 
 King Henry the Third, by Hugh Balfham, prior of Ely ; at 
 which time it was nothing more than commodious lodgings 
 for the ftudents. But in 1284* when the founder was made 
 bifhop of that fee, he endowed it for a m after and fourteen 
 fellows. The name of the college is derived from Sc. 
 Peter's church, in the neighbourhood of which it is fitu- 
 ated. 
 
 This college confifts of two courts, feparated by a cloifter 
 and gallery, the largeft being one hundred and forty-four feet 
 long, and eighty-four feet broad. All the buildings in this 
 court have been within thefe few years cafed with ftone in an 
 elegant manner, fo that at prefent they make a very handforne 
 appearance. The leffer court is fituated next the ftreet, a id 
 is divided by the chapel, a fine Gothic building, forty-four 
 feet long, twenty-feven broad, and twenty-feven high. This 
 college has a mafter, twenty-two fellows, and forty-two fcho- 
 lars. 
 
 Clare Hall 
 
64 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 Clare Hall was founded in the year 1340,' at which time 
 Richard Badew, the chancellor, being affifted by the generous 
 benefactions of Lady Elizabeth Clare, then Countefs of Ul- 
 fter, not only built, but endowed it on the ruins of a houfe 
 which he had built fifteen years before, for the reception of 
 fuch ftudents as were willing to live there at their own ex- 
 pence ; but at laft, by fome accident, it was deftroyed by fire. 
 In procefs of time, by the affiftance of fome additional bene- 
 factions, the endowment was greatly enlarged. It has been 
 nobly rebuilt, and is finely fituated on the eaftern bank of the 
 river, over which it has an elegant ftone bridge, leading to a 
 fine vifta, beyond which is a beautiful lawn. This delightful 
 fpot is much reforted to on fummer evenings, where, on the 
 one hand, are elegant buildings, gardens, groves, and the river; 
 and, on the other, corn-fields to a very great extent. Clare 
 Hall has a mafter, eighteen fellows, and fixty-three fclio- 
 lars. 
 
 Pembroke Hall was founded in the year 1347, by Mary 
 5t, Paul, Countefs of Pembroke, whofe hufband, Audomare 
 de Valentia, Earl of Pembroke, loft his life in a tournament 
 on the very day he was married to her. Upon this misfor- 
 tune, being inconfolable for his death, fhe inftantly with- 
 drew from the world ; and, amongft other acts of munifi- 
 cence, flieeftablifhed this hall, It confifts of two courts, each 
 being ninety fix feet long, and fifty-four broad. The chapel 
 was built after a defign of Sir Chriftopher Wren, and is 
 efteemed an elegant edifice. This hall has a mafter, five fel- 
 lows, and thirteen fcholars. 
 
 Corpus Chri/li, or BenediSi College^ is a long fquare of 
 buildings, containing two courts, and four rows of lodgings. 
 It was founded by the united guilds, or fraternities of Corpus 
 Chrifti, and the Bleffed Virgin, who through the intereft of 
 Henry of Monmouth, Duke of Lancafter, procured leave of 
 Henry the Third, that their aldermen ftiould be authorized to 
 ere£t and endow this college. It takes its name from the 
 church of bt. Benedict, that ftands contiguous to it. The 
 chapel of the college, and the library, are both under trie fame 
 roof. The latter contains a valuable colle&ion of ancient 
 manufcripts, which were preferved at the difiblution of the 
 religious houfes,and given to this fociety by Archbifliop Par- 
 ker, i his college maintains a mafter, twelve fellows, and 
 forty fcholars. 
 
 Trinity Hall 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 65 
 
 Trinity Hall was founded in the year 1353, by William 
 Bateman, Bifhop of Norwich. It is an handfome edifice, 
 having been lately faced with ftone, both within and without. 
 The chapel is fmall, but very neat, and the gardens are ex- 
 tremely pleafant. This hall was originally defigned for the 
 fiudy of the civil law, and confifts of a mafter, twelve fellows, 
 and fourteen fcholars. 
 
 Gonville and Caius College confifts of three courts, with 
 three remarkable gates, one of which is called the gate of 
 virtue, and efteemed a fine piece of architecture. T he firft 
 foundation of this fociety, though not on the fame fpot, was 
 begun in the year 134.8, by Edmund de Gonville, rector of 
 Ferrington, in Norfolk : but as he died before his defign was 
 accomplifted, he left a fum of money to Bateman, Bifliopof 
 Norwich, for the completion of it. However, the learned 
 Dr. John Caius, an eminent phyfician, madefuch large addi- 
 tions to it afterwards, not only in regard to its buildings, but 
 its revenues, that he is juftly confidered as its principal 
 founder. 
 
 Dr. Caius was fucceffively phyfician to King Edward the 
 Sixth, Queen Mary the Firft, and Queen Elizabeth ; and 
 was a great friend to the College of Phyficians,of which for 
 feven years he held the office of prefident. He added at his 
 own expence to Gonville-hall a new fquare, called Caius's 
 Court, all of durable free-ftone, and uniform in every refpect; 
 the charge of which amounted to one thoufand eight hundred 
 and thirty-four pounds, which at that time was a large fuim 
 He alfo endowed his foundation with confiderable eftates, for 
 the maintenance of three fellows, twenty fcholars, and a por- 
 ter, and gave them a new body of ftatutes. And that this 
 fociety might the better flourilh under his immediate care and 
 infpediion, he accepted himfelf of the mafterfliip of it, in 
 1559, anc * retained it almoft as long as he lived. But fome 
 little time before his deceafe, he caufed Dr. Thomas Legga 
 of Norwich to be placed in his room, he remaining as a fel- 
 low commoner in his own college, affifting daily at divine fer- 
 vice, in a private feat in the chapel, which he had built for 
 himfelf. He died in 1573, anc * was buried in a grave which 
 he had made before his deceafe, in the chapel of his own col- 
 lege. His monument, when the rhapel was rebuilt fome 
 years fince, was railed from the floor, and placed in the wail, 
 and then his body was found whole and perfect. This col- 
 Voh. I. I lege 
 
66 CAMBRIDGESHIRE, 
 
 lege maintains at prefent twenty-fix fellows, and feventy-four 
 fcholars. 
 
 King's College is on many accounts deemed the moft mag* 
 nificent college in Europe* The chapel is one of the fineft 
 pieces of Gothic architecture in the world, three hundred and 
 four feet long, feventy-three broads and ninety-one in height 
 to the battlements, and yet not a fingle pillar to fuftain the 
 roofs, of which there are two ; the firft of ftone finely 
 wrought, the other of timber covered with lead, between 
 which a man may walk upright. It is adorned with twenty 
 fix beautiful pinnacles, of which the four principal ones are 
 one hundred and fifty feet high, and are feen at twenty miles 
 diftance. The carving is inimitably fine ; and the windows 
 of the chapel are ornamented with painted glafs. This col- 
 lege owes its firft foundation to King Henry the Sixth, in the 
 year 144.1, but it was afterwards enlarged by King Henry 
 the Seventh, and King Henry the Eighth. It maintains a 
 provoft, fifty fellows, and twenty fcholars. 
 
 Queeris College* was firft founded by Margaret, confort of 
 King Henry the Sixth, but was fimfhtd by Elizabeth, Queen 
 to King Edward the Fourth. It contains two courts, befides 
 other buildings. The firft court is ninety-fix feet long, and 
 eighty-four broad, and the fecond is three hundred and thirty 
 feet in circumference. The chapel is a fine piece of Gothic 
 architecture ; but the greateft beauties of this college are its 
 gardens and rural groves, which are laid out in the moft cu- 
 rious manner along both fides of the river, and connedted with 
 the college and each other by two wooden bridges, one of 
 which is confidered as extremely curious. When Erafmus 
 was at Cambridge, he chofe this college as his place of re- 
 sidence. Here is a prefident, nineteen fellows, and forty-four 
 fcholars. 
 
 Catherine Hall was founded by Richard Woodlark, the 
 provoft of King's College, in the year 1475* and was dedi- 
 cated to St. Catherine. It isfituatedon theeaftof Queen's 
 College. The front is towards the weft, and is one of the 
 moft regular and extenfive in thisUniverfity. It has lately 
 had feveral confiderable improvements and additions, particu- 
 larly that part which fronts she eaft, where there is a noble 
 quadrangle of one hundivi and eighty feet long, and one 
 hundred and twenty feet broad. In the middle is a g-rafs plat, 
 and the entrance from tht eaft is by an handfomc pair of iron 
 
 gates. 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 67 
 
 gates. Great art has been ufed to make the walks and ave- 
 nues of this college as agreeable as poflible ; for which pur- 
 pofe a row of young elms have been planted within thefe few 
 years oppofite Trumpington-ftreet, and a new brick wall 
 erected, which adds greatly to the beauty cf the place. The 
 chapel here is reckoned a fine piece of architecture. This 
 hall maintains a matter, fix fellows, and thirty fcholars. 
 
 Jefus College is fituated in the moft beautiful manner on 
 theeaft end of the town, and furrounded by gardens, groves, 
 and fine meadows. The fouth front is one hundred and 
 eighty feet long, built in the moft regular manner, and in a 
 good tafte. 1 he entrance is by a moft magnificent gate, and 
 the firft court is one hundred and forty-one feet long, and one 
 hundred and twenty broad. It was founded by John AN 
 cock, Biftiop of Ely, in the year 1497, who, after he had 
 obtained the lands and revenues of a mcnaftery of nuns, 
 who had been fupprefied on account of the licentioufnefs of 
 their manners, he endowed and dedicated it to Jefus, the Blef- 
 fed Virgin, and to St. Radegund, who was the patronefs of 
 the nunnery. This college maintains a mafter, fixteen fel- 
 lows, and thirty-one fcholars. 
 
 ChriJFs College was founded by the Lady Margaret, Coun- 
 ters of Richmond, and mother of King Henry the Seventh. 
 It is fituated on the eaft fide of the town , and has one court 
 of about one hundred and thirty feet long, and one hundred 
 and twenty broad. The matter's apartments are in the north- 
 eaft corner, and near them is the chapel. The hall is on the 
 weft fide of the court, and two of the others have been lately 
 faced with ftone. A ftone building has alfo been erecied 
 within thefe few years, one hundred and fifty feet long, from 
 whence there is an extenfive profpeci of the adjacent country. 
 Behind this place is a garden appropriated for the ufe of the 
 fellows, reckoned one of the pleafanteft in the Univerficy, 
 and beyond it is the cold bath furrounded by a little wilder- 
 nefs. This college maintains a mafter, fifteen fellows, and 
 fifty fcholars. 
 
 St, < Johris College was alfo founded by the Countefs of 
 Richmond, about nineteen years after the eftablifhmenc of the 
 preceding college, and was completed by her executors, Ri- 
 chard Fox, Bilhop of Winchefter, and John Fiftier, Bifhop 
 of Rochefter, It confifts of three courts j to the firit of 
 which we enter by a magnificent gate, adorned with four high 
 
 A % towers, 
 
*8 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 towers, built in the Gothic tafte. The chapel is on the 
 right hand, being one hundred and twenty feet long, and 
 twenty- feven broad. Divine fervice is performed here in the 
 fame manner as in cathedrals. The court of this college is 
 extremely fpacious, being two hundred and twenty-eight feet 
 long, and two hundred and fixteen broad. The hall is oppo- 
 lite the gate, and the fecond court is for the moft part taken 
 up with the lodgings of the fellows. On the north is a fine 
 gallery, adjoining to the matter's lodge ; and the whole court, 
 which has a very magnificent appearance, is about two hun- 
 dred and feventy feet in length, and two hundred and forty in 
 breadth j and from it is an entrance to the third court, 
 which, although the leaft, is the pleafanteft of the three, being 
 fituated clofe to the river, and having the walks and groves 
 en the oppofite fide in full view. There is a commodious 
 cloifter on the weft, wherein are feveral handfome apartments, 
 and on the north is the college library, which is a noble room, 
 and is well furnifhed with many fcarce and valuable books. 
 There is a fine ftone bridge of three arches belonging to this 
 college, which leads to a grand walk of elms, on the other 
 fide of the river ; and near it are fine meadows, cultivated 
 with the greateft care, and laid out with all the profufion of 
 the moft luxuriant iancy. There is a garden for the fellows 
 at the weft nd, not walled in, but fufficiently fecured by a 
 thickfet hedge, and a deep ditch, which render it extremely 
 pleafant, as the walks afford a fine profpedl of an extenfive 
 champaign country on one fide, and on the other the walks 
 belonging to Trinity College. Here is likewife a beautiful 
 fiu^mer-houfe, with a bowling-green, i his college main« 
 taint a mafter, fifty-four fellows, and an hundred fcholars. 
 
 Magdalen College ftands on that fide of the Cam which is 
 oppoiite to all the reft. It was originally no more than an 
 hall for monks to prepare themfelves for academical exercifes 5 
 but at the difiblution of the monafteries, Thomas Lord Aud- 
 Jey, High Chancellor of tngland, founded this college here. 
 It cpnfifts of two courts, the largeft of which has the chapel 
 and mailer's apartmentson the north, and the hall on theeaft. 
 The fcconcl court is extremely neat, and ftands at a diftance 
 from the noiie of the town, it has on the eaft an elegant' 
 ftone building, with a cloifter in the front. Over the apart- 
 ments of the fellows is a fine new library, furnifhed with a 
 Vtry valuable solkftipn of manufcrjpts, yvhich were given 
 
 to 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 69 
 
 to this college by the ingenious Mr. Samuel Pepys, who was 
 fecretary to the Admiralty in the reigns of Charles the Se- 
 cond and James the Second, The chapel of this college is 
 extremely neat, and the workmanfhip of the altar-piece is 
 much admired. Here is a mafter, thirteen fellows, and 
 thirty fcholars. 
 
 Trinity College was founded by King Henry the Eighth, 
 but large additions were afterwards made to it by Queen 
 Mary, and feveral fubfequent benefa£iors. It is a very grand 
 ftruclure, containing two fpacious quadrangles ; the fir ft of 
 which is much the largeft, being three hundred and forty- 
 four feet in length on the weft fide, and three hundred and 
 twenty-five feet on the eaft, two hundred and eighty feet 
 broad on the fouth fide, and two hundred and fifty-fix on the 
 north. The entrance fron the ftreet is by a grand gate, 
 over which is a curious obfervatory. The entrance from 
 the fouth is by a gate adorned with towers, and called 
 Queen's Gate; and oppofite to it, on the north, is another 
 gate fimilar to it, with a noble clock, and near it is the 
 chapel, which is an exceeding neat ftru&ure. It is two hun- 
 dred and four feet long, thirty-three feet eight inches broad, 
 and forty-three feet feven inches high* A beautiful firnpli- 
 eity reigns throughout this building : it is adorned with a 
 grand altar-piece, flails, and a noble organ gallery. Public 
 worfliip is performed here in the fame manner as in cathe- 
 drals. In the anti-chamber is a very fine ftatue of Sir Ifaac 
 Newton, which was executed by Roubilliac, and is one of 
 the fineft performances of that great mafter. The mafter's 
 lodge is near the chapel, and in it are apartments for the re- 
 ception of the King, and fuch of the Royal Family as chufe 
 to vifit the Univerfity. Thefe apartments are likewife ap- 
 propriated for the reception of the Judges when they come 
 here on the circuit. 
 
 The hall is at the fouth end of the mafter's lodge, and is 
 one hundred feet long, and forty broad. The height is fifty 
 feet, and the walls are adorned with the portraits of many 
 eminent perfons, who have either had their education in this 
 college, or been benefa&ors to it. There is an entrance 
 through the end of the hall to Nevils, or the inner court, by 
 a grand flight of fteps. This court is the fineft in this Uni- 
 verlity, and even furpafles any at Oxford. It is very fpa- 
 cious, and has a noble cloifter both on the north andioutn, 
 
 and 
 
70 
 
 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 and well fupported by ftone pillars, and over them arehandfoms 
 apartments for the fellows and gentlemen commoners. The 
 library conftitutes the weft front of the college, and is a very 
 magnificent ftru&ure. It is one hundred and ninety feet 
 Jong, forty broad, and thirty-eight high. The erecting of 
 this library was much promoted by the learned Dr. Barrow, 
 who was mafter of this college when the edifice was begun. 
 The afcent to it is by a fpacious ftair cafe, with fteps of 
 black marble, and in different apartments are many ancient 
 Roman monuments. The entrance into the library is by 
 folding doors at the north end, and the appearance of the in- 
 fide is extremely grand and beautiful. The clafles are very 
 large, and contain a very valuable collection of books, manu- 
 fcripts, and other curiofities. The tops of the clafles are 
 adorned with bulls of the mod celebrated writers, both an- 
 cient and modern. There are alfo fome fine portraits, and a 
 fine marble ftatue of the late Duke of Somerfet. The floor of 
 the library is of white marble, and at the fouth end are folding 
 doors, which open into a balcony. The outfide of the walls is 
 ornamented with pilafters, and chapiters finely carved, and 
 round the top is a ftone baluftrade. Over the eaft front are 
 four ftatues, reprefenting divinity, law, phyfic, and the ma- 
 thematics. Sir Chriftopher Wren was the architect of this 
 elegant building. Under the library is a moft fpacious pi- 
 azza,, and from it are three large gates of wrought iron, 
 which open to a lawn furrounded with fine gravel walks, and 
 there is a pafiage to the river, over which is a bridge of three 
 arches. On the oppofite fide of the river are walks of about 
 one-third of a mile in circumference, from whence there is an 
 extenfive profped over a fine open country. In the middle is 
 a remarkable fine vifta, through a high walk of lofty elms, 
 and on the north and fouth are rows of Dutch elms and 
 chefnut trees. This noble college maintains a mafter, fixty 
 five fellows, and ninety-one fcholars. 
 
 Emanuel College was founded in the year 1584, by Sir 
 Walter Miidmay, of Chelmsford in Eflex, on the fame fpot 
 on which there had formerly been a houfe of Dominican 
 friars. The grand court of this college is extremely neat, 
 having an elegant ftone building on the fouth, and oppofite 
 on the north fide is the hall. Near it is the matter's lodge; 
 and on the eaft is a fine gallery, over the cloifter, adorned with 
 portraits of the founder and other benefactors. The entrance 
 
 to 
 
I! 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 to the chapel is in the middle of the cloifter, and contrived 
 in fuch a manner that the ftudents can pafs to it out of their 
 chambers. The chapel, which is extremely neat, is adorned 
 with a fretwork cieling, and has a marble floor. From the 
 cloifter to the fouth is a noble range of buildings, befides 
 which there are fome leffer courts with old buildings and a 
 very pood library. Here is a mafter, fourteen fellows, and 
 fixty fcholars. 
 
 Sidney Suffix College was founded in 1589, by Lady Fran- 
 ces Sidney, Countefs of Suflex. It confifts of two courts, 
 almoft encompaffed with gardens. The hall is extremely ele- 
 gant, and the library contains many fcarce and valuable 
 books. This college maintains a mafter, twelve fellows, 
 and twenty-eight fcholars. 
 
 The Senate Houfe at Cambridge is a moft elegant building, 
 executed entirely in the Corinthian order, being one hundred 
 and one feet long, forty-two feet broad, and thirty-two feet 
 high. The wainfcot and galleries which furround it, are of 
 Norway oak, of a cedar colour, and finely carved. The gal- 
 lery at the eaft end is fupported by five fluted columns ; and 
 the cieling is ornamented with ftucco work. Oppofite the 
 fouth entrance is a ftatue of King George the Second, and 
 on the other fide is a ftatue of the late Duke of Somerfet. 
 Near this is a fine emblematical figure of glory, which was 
 executed in Italy. At the weft end are the thrones of the 
 chancellor and vice-chancellor, and ihe feats for the heads of 
 the colleges, noblemen, and doctors, are on one fide, in the 
 form of a femi-circle. The regents in white hoods, and the 
 non regents in black hoods, fit below them 5 and at the 
 upper end, on the right hand of the chancellor's throne, is a 
 room where the doctors drefs themfelves in their robes. At 
 the eaft end are two ftair-cafes leading to the gallery, which 
 will contain at leaft a thoufand perfons. This is general!/ 
 allowed to be one of the moft elegant edifices in England, 
 and is faid to have coft about fixteen thoufand pounds. It 
 forms the north fide of an intended fquare, as the fchools and 
 public libraries do the weft, the fchools being on the ground 
 floor, and the library over them, furrounding a fmall court, 
 where the divinity and philofophy fchools are kept ; and oa 
 the fouth are thofe for law and phyfic. The late learned 
 Dr. Woodward's repolitory of foffils, ores,ftiells, &c. which 
 is well worthy the notice of the curious, is an elegant geo- 
 metrical 
 
72 CAMBRIDGESHIRE, 
 
 metrical ftair-cafe, which leads to the old library over the 
 law fchools. At thefouth-weft angle is an elegant fquare 
 room, enlightened by an handfome cupola, with brafs doors, 
 for the reception of manufcripts and the moft valuable 
 book?; and here is likewife a cabinet, containing a great 
 Dumber of oriental manufcripts, with many other curiofi- 
 ties. In the next room is an Egyptian mummy ; and in 
 two other rooms are depofited a great number of curious 
 prints, together with a valuable colledtion of medals, and 
 the firft editions of the Greek and Latin clafficks ; and alfo a 
 collection of moft of the books printed by Caxton, Here is 
 likewife a famous Greek manufcript of the Gofpels, and A£ts 
 of the Apoftles, which belonged to Theodore Beza, and was 
 prefented by him to thisUniverfity. It is written in capitals 
 on fine vellum, and is of great antiquity. The room in which 
 this is depofited, which is on the weft fide, over the philo- 
 fophy fchool, together with another over the divinity fchool, 
 on the north-fide, contains twenty- fix large claflTes, in which 
 are thirty thoufand volumes of printed bpoks, prefented to 
 this Univerfity by King George the Firft, The eaft gallery 
 has been lately built in an elegant manner, and forms the 
 weft fide of the intended fquare $ but it is of a different order 
 of architecture from the Senate Houfe, to which it isjoined 
 by a ftone fcreen, the whole making a very handfome ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 St. Mary's church forms the eaft fide of the intended 
 fquare, and in this the Univerfity have their public fermons. 
 Over part of the middle chancel is a grand gallery, whereia 
 the vice-chancellors, heads of colleges, noblemen, and doc- 
 tors fit; and in the middle ifle are feats for the matters of 
 arts, and fellow-commoners. In the fide ifles are handfome 
 feats for the batchelors, and the parifliioners fit near them. 
 The organ at the weft end is extremely magnificent ; and it 
 has a gallery wherein all the acts of mufic are held. The 
 length of the church is feventy-five feet, and the chancel 
 forty-five, the whole breadth being fixty-eight. This noble 
 fabric was built by the voluntary contributions of fuch per- 
 sons as had received their education in this Univerfity. The 
 fteeple is lofty and handfome ; and this church is greatly fu- 
 perior to any other in the city of Cambridge. 
 
 The whole number of fellows in this celebrated Univer- 
 fity, are four hundred, and fix hundred and fix.ty.fix fcho- 
 
 Jars, 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 Jars, with about two hundred and thirty-fix officers and fer- 
 vants of various kinds, who are maintained upon the foun- 
 dation. Thefe, however, are not all the ftudents of the 
 Univerfity; there sre two forts of ftudents, called pen- 
 fioners, the greater and the lefs ; the greater penfioners are 
 fons of the nobility and of gentlemen of large fortunes, and 
 are called fellow-commoners, becaufe, though they are fcho- 
 lars, they dine with the fellows; the leffer penfioners dine 
 with the fcholars that are on the foundation, but live at their 
 own expence. There is alfo a confiderable number of poor 
 fcholars, called fizars, who wait upon the fellows and fcho- 
 lars, and the penfioners of both ranks, by whom they are in 
 a great degree maintained; but the number of penfioners 
 and fizars cannot be ascertained, as it is in a ftateof perpe- 
 tual fluctuation. 
 
 In this Univerfity thebatchelors of arts complete their de- 
 grees in Lent, beginning at Afh-Wednefday. The firft 
 Tuefday in July is always the day of commencement, 
 wherein the mailers of arts and the doctors of all faculties 
 complete their refpective degrees. In three years after any 
 one has taken his batchelor's degree, he may commence maf- 
 ter of arts ; and feven years after that, he may be dignified 
 with the title of batchelor of divinity , and ac the expiration 
 of three years more, he may turn out doctor. 
 
 Newmarket, notwithftanding its name, is of confide- 
 rable antiquity ; for in the time of King Edward the Third 
 theBifhop of Carlifle, who was afterwards fo troublefome to 
 King Henry the Fourth, was called Thomas of Newmarket, 
 It is fixty miles diftant from London, and chiefly confifts of 
 one ftreet, which is long and well built. Thefouth-fide of 
 it only is in Cambridgefhire, the north fide being in the 
 countyof Suffolk. The air of this place is very healthy; 
 and the heath which furrounds the town is famous for being 
 the fineft courfe in England, where there are horfe races in 
 April and Odober every year. There are two churches in 
 Newmarket ; one on the Cambridge fide, which is a chapel 
 of eafe to Ditton, a neighbouring parilh, and one on the 
 Suffolk fide, which is parochial. There is a royal palace on 
 the heath, which was built by King Charles the Second f 
 and there are alfo feveral feats near the heath, belonging to 
 perfonsof diftin$ion# There are here feveral very wide, deep, 
 
 Vol., I. K and 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 and long ditches, which were cut by the Eaft Angles to keep 
 out the Mercians , one of which being a ftupendous work, 
 much fuperior to the reft, has obtained the name of the 
 Devil's Ditch ; the common people fuppofing it to be more 
 adequate to the power of fpirits than of men. It runs many 
 miles over the heath, 
 
 Royston, which is thirty-feven miles from London, is a 
 populous and well built town, and ftands in a good air on a 
 chalky foil. Part of it is fituated in Cambridgefhire, and 
 part on the utmoft northern border of Hertfordftiire. The 
 town ftands where two roads meet, both made by the Ro- 
 mans, the one called Herman-ftreet, and the other Icening- 
 ftreet. This place is much frequented on account of its 
 good market for grain, and of being one of the roads to Cam- 
 bridge, to and from which many perfons are conftantly tra- 
 velling. The inns are large, and contain good accommoda- 
 tions for perfons of all ranks. Royfton church formerly be- 
 longed to a convent, and contains fome curious monuments 
 It was made parochial foon after the diflblution of monafte- 
 riesj and five parifhes being then reduced into one, the 
 reftory is of great value, and the incumbent is lord of the 
 manor. Many Roman coins have been found here at diffe- 
 rent times, and a few years ago, as fome labourers were dig- 
 ging near the market-place, they difcovered the remains of 
 a curious fubterranean chapel, with feveral altars and images 
 cut out of chalk. 
 
 WisbEACH is eighty-nine miles from London, and is 
 fituated among the fens and rivers in the ifle of Ely. It is 
 a well built and populous town, and has a good public hall, 
 and an epifcopal palace belonging to the bifhop of Ely. It 
 has a navigation by barges to London, which has made it a 
 place of considerable trade. Its principal commodity is 
 oats, of which it is computed that more than fifty-two thou- 
 fand quarters ate annually fent up to the metropolis, befides 
 one thoufand tons of oil, and eight thoufand firkins of butter. 
 
 Marsh, which is eighty miles from London, is but a mean 
 and incohfiderable town. In 1730, when the road was 
 making from hence to Wift>each, two urns were found, in 
 one or which were bones and afhes, and in the other about 
 
 three 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 three hundred pieces of filver coin, no two pieces alike; but 
 which, it is faid, by their dates appeared to be two thoufand 
 years old. 
 
 Caxton is afmall town, forty-nine miles from London, 
 A Roman way goes through this place. Caxton, the firft 
 Englifh printer, was born here, as was alfo Matthew Paris, 
 the hiftorian. This is an inconfiderable town, though (as 
 it is on the poft road between Royfton and Huntingdon) it 
 contains fome good inns. 
 
 Soham, which is feventy-one miles from London, is a 
 little town on the eaft fide the river Cam, and near a fen which 
 lies in the road to Ely, and was once extremely dangerous to 
 pafs, but a good caufeway is now made through it. This 
 place is remarkable for the ruins of a church built by the 
 Danes. 
 
 Linton is now an obfeure town, forty-eight miles from 
 London, though it was formerly a place of confiderable re- 
 pute. Near this place a Roman military way joins the 
 Icening. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c 
 
 The Earl of Hardwickehas a fine feat at Wimple* in this 
 county; as has alfo Mr Soame Jenyns at Bottijham Ha/l 9 
 near Cambridge; Sir John Hynde Cotton at Madingley ; 
 and Mr. Bennet at Barberham* an ancient feat built by Sig- 
 nior Pallavicini, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 At a little diftance from Cambridge is the village of Stour- 
 bridge* which is fituated on a brook called theStour, and is 
 celebrated for one of the greateft fairs in England being held 
 in its neighbourhood. It begins on the 18th of September, 
 and continues a fortnight ; and there is fuch a vaft concourfe 
 of dealers here, from almoft every part of the kingdom, that 
 wooden booths are built for their accommodation, which 
 are divided into ftreets and lanes, in the fame manner as an 
 inhabited town, and named after fo many ftreets in JLondon. 
 They have not only fliops during the fair for thefaleof al- 
 
 K 2 mod 
 
76 CAMBRIDGESHIRE* 
 
 tnoft every fort of goods, butalfo alehoufes, taverns, and 
 eating-houfes, with (hews and exhibitions of various kinds. 
 A very great trade is carried on here, by buying and felling 
 different forts of goods upon the fpot; and alfo, by very large 
 commiffions, which are here tranfa&ed for other parts of 
 England. In this fair the clothiers from Devonfliire and 
 Somerfetfliire meet with thofe from Leeds and Halifax in 
 Yorkfhire, while the wholefale dealers from London come to 
 fettle with the country manufa&urers, and give them orders 
 for frefli quantities of goods. During the whole time in 
 which this fair continues, it refembles a populous trading 
 town, or rather a city; and in order to prevent diforders, 
 there is a court held in a booth, eredted for the purpofe, where 
 juftice is adminiftered by one of the magiftrates from Cam- 
 bridge* About the middle of the fair, when the hurry of the 
 wholefale bufinefs is over, the gentry from the neighbourhood 
 come from motives of curiofity,but they lay out large fums in 
 the purchafe of fuch articles as they haveoccafion for. There 
 is alfo a fair for horfes, which is reforted to by dealers from 
 all parts. It is faid that this famous fair derives its origin 
 from a clothier of Kendal, who accidentally expofed his cloth 
 to fale at this place, which had been intended for the London 
 market ; upon which others, encouraged by his fuccefs, met 
 here annually for the fame purpofe, and fo eftablifhed in pro- 
 cefs of time this great and univerfal market. 
 
 At Thorney, near Wifbeach, was a very confxderable mo- 
 nafftery, founded in the reign of King Edgar. The greateft 
 part of the church is ftill ftanding, and from its majeftic 
 appearance, fome idea may be formed of the ancient gran- 
 deur of Thorney Abbey. 
 
 At Spinney, near Soham, was an abbey founded about the 
 reign of King Henry the Third, near which was a church, 
 founded by Lady Mary Baffingburne, and given to the abbey 
 of Spinney, upon condition that the monks fhould fupport 
 feven poor aged men, with the following allowance, viz. 
 one farthing loaf, one herring, and one pennyworth of ale 
 per day ; and two hundred dry turves, one pair of (hoes, one 
 woollen garment, and three ells of Jinen every year. Henry 
 Cromwell, fecond fon of Oliver Cromwell, lies buried in 
 this church. 
 
 Near 
 
CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 77 
 
 Near the fouthern extremity of this county, and not far 
 from Linton, is a village called Cajile Camps, where there 
 are ftill the remains of a moft magnificent caftle, built by 
 one of the Vere's, Earl of Oxford in the reign of King 
 Henry the Firft. The tower, and great part of the walls 
 are ftill ftanding, and from its appearance at this diftance of 
 time, it mud have been a very magnificent edifice. The 
 whole of the manor was purchafed by Mr. Sutton, for the 
 life of his hofpital, called the Charter-Houfe, in London, 
 
 AtSwavefey are fome fmall ruins of a Benediftine con- 
 vent, which belonged to the priory of St. Anne's, near Co- 
 ventry. 
 
 Audre^ or as it was formerly called Erith, on the north 
 fide of the Oufe, in the ifle of Jily, though only a village, 
 is larger and more populous than fome market-towns — 
 There is a piece of antiquity near this place, called Belfars 
 Hill; which is an artificial mount, that is generally fup- 
 pofed to be the place to which the people who had taken up 
 arms againft William the Norman Red for fafety, after he 
 had defeated Harold at the battle of Haftings. At that time 
 it was furrounded by marfhes and bogs. In the reign of 
 King Henry the Third, fuch of the barons as were defeated 
 and outlawed, fought refuge at this place, from whence they 
 /allied forth in great numbers, and infefted the adjacent 
 country. 
 
 At Arbury^ot Arborough, about a mile north of Cambridge, 
 there are the remains or a Roman camp, in a figure incli- 
 ning to a fquare, and of very confiderable extent. In this 
 camp there have been found many Roman coins. 
 
 Over againft Arborough, to the fouth-eaft of Cambridge, 
 and at a fmall diftance from it, are certain high hills known 
 by the name of Gog Magog Hills* On the top of thefe 
 hills there is an entrenchment, of a rude circular figure, 
 which is two hundred and forty fix paces in diameter: it is 
 fortified with three rampires, having two ditches between 
 them, as the manner formerly was ; and it is fuppofed that 
 if it could have been fupplied with water, it would have been 
 impregnable. Some have imagined this camp to be Roman, 
 
 as 
 
78 CAMBRIDGESHIRE. 
 
 as the Romans did not always reject a circular figure when 
 the fituation made it more convenient than another. Others 
 think if was a fummer retreat of the Danes, who are known 
 to have committed great barbarities in this country. And fome 
 are of opinion that the work is Britifh, and was thrown up 
 to check the Romans, who were encamped at Arborough, 
 over againft it. Gervafe of Tilbury, an hiftorian of the 
 thirteenth century, thinks it was a camp of the Vandals, 
 when they deftroyed the Chriftians and defolated great part 
 of the country : he therefore gave it the name of Vandelbiria, 
 which has fince been corrupted into Wandlejbury. — Near 
 this camp, from the brow of the hill fouthward, there runs a 
 Roman way ; and in the year 1685, many Roman coins were 
 found in an adjacent fpot. 
 
 At T rumpingtori) diftant about one mile from Cambridge, 
 there is a place called Dam Hill, where great numbers of 
 human bones have been found, and many urns, pateras, and 
 other Roman antiquities. 
 
 t Barnwell is a pleafant village near Cambridge, where there 
 was formerly an abbey, founded by Pain Peverell,a famous 
 foldier, who was ftandard-bearer to Robert Duke of Nor- 
 mandy, in the holy wars. 
 
 Chejlertcn is another agreeable village near Cambridge, 
 where was formerly a feat of the Bevil family. 
 
 at 
 
 CHESHIRE. 
 
CHESHIRE. 
 
 THIS county is bounded on the north by Lancafhire, on 
 the eaft and foutb-eaft by Derbyfhire and Stafford (hire, 
 on the fouth by Shropfhire and part of Flintftiire, and on 
 the weft and north-weft by Denbighfhire and the Irifh fea, 
 into which the north-weft corner fhoots out, and forms a 
 peninfula near fixteen miles long, and feven broad, called 
 Wiral. Thefea breaking on each fide of this peninfula, forms 
 two creeks, one between thenorth-eaft fide of the peninfula 
 and the fouth-weft coaft of Lancafliire ; the other between the 
 fouth-weft coaft of it, and the north-eaft coaft of Flint- 
 (hire : thefe two creeks receive all the rivers of the county. 
 The whole county is about forty-five miles long, and twenty- 
 five broad, in its greateft extent. 
 
 The air of this county is ferene and healthful, but pro* 
 portionably colder than the more fouthern parts of theifland. 
 The country is in general flat and open, though itrifes into 
 hills on the borders of Staffbrdfhire and Derbyfhire, and con- 
 tains feveral forefts, two of which, called Delamere and 
 Macclesfield, are of confiderable extent. The foil in many 
 parts is naturally fertile; and its fertility is greatly increafed 
 by a kind of marie, or fat clay, of two forts, one white and 
 the other red, which the peafants find in great abundance* 
 and fpread upon their land as manure : corn and grafs is thus 
 produced with the moft plentiful increafe ; and the pafture is 
 faid to be the fweeteft of any in the kingdom. There are 
 however large trafls of land covered with heath and mofs, 
 which the inhabitants can ufe only for fuel. The mofTy 
 tracis confift of a kind of moorifii boggy earth. The in-, 
 habitants call them mojfes, and diftingtrijh them into white, 
 grey, and black, from the colour of the mofs that grows 
 upon them. The white moffes, or bogs, are evidently corn- 
 pages of the leaves, feeds, flowers, ftalks, and roots of herbs* 
 plants or fhrubs. The grey confifts of the fame fubftances 
 in a higher degree of putrefaflion $ and the only difference 
 of the black is, that in this the putrefa&ion is perfeft; the 
 
 grey 
 
8o CHESHIRE. 
 
 grey is harder, and more ponderous than the white ; and the 
 black is clofer and more bituminous than either. From thefe 
 mofles, fquare pieces, like bricks, are dug out, and laid in 
 the fun to dry for fuel, and are called turfs. 
 
 The chief commodities of this county are cheefe, fait', 
 and mill ftones. The cheefe is efteemed the beft in England, 
 and furniflied in great plenty by the excellent pafturage on 
 which the cattle are fed. The fait is produced not from the 
 water of the fea, but from fait fprings, which rife in North- 
 wich, Namptwich, and Middlewich, which are called the 
 Salt Wiches, and Dunham, at the diftance of about fix 
 miles from each other. The pits are feldom more than four 
 yards deep, and never more than feven. In two places in 
 Namptwich the fpring breaks ouc in the meadows fo as to 
 fret away the grafs ; and a fait liquor ouzes through the 
 earth, which is fwampy to a confiderable diftance. The 
 fait fprings at Namptwich are about thirty miles from the 
 fea, and generally lie along the river Weaver ; yet there is 
 an appearance ot the fame vein at Middlewich, nearer a little 
 frream called the Dane, or Dan, than the Weaver. All 
 thefe fprings lie near brooks, and in meadow grounds. The 
 water is. fo very cold at the bottom of thefe pits, that the 
 briners cannot flay in them above half an hour at a time, 
 nor fo long, without frequently drinking ftrong waters. 
 Some of thefe fprings afford much more water than others; 
 but it isobferved, that there is more falc in any given quan- 
 tity of water drawn from the fprings that yield little, than 
 in the fame quantity drawn from thofe that yield much ; 
 and that the ftrength of the brine is generally in proportion 
 to the paucity of the fpring. It is alfo remarkable, that more 
 fait is produced from the fame quantity of brine in dry we a- 
 ther than in wet. From whence the brine of thefe fprings 
 is fupplied, is a quefiion that has never yet been finally de- 
 cided : fome have fuppofed it to come from the fea; fome 
 from fubterraneous rocks of fait, which were difcovered in 
 thefe parts about the middle of the laft century 5 and others 
 from fubtle faline particles, fubfifting in the air and depofited 
 in a proper bed. It is not probable that this water comes 
 from the fea, becaufe a quart of fea water will produce no 
 more than an ounce and half of fait, but a quart of water 
 from thefe fprings will often produce feven or eight ounces. 
 But whether the faline rocks, or the faline particles, are 
 
 the 
 
CHESHIRE. 81 
 
 thecaufe of this phenomenon, future naturalifts muft deter- 
 mine. The ftone which is wrought into mill-ftones is dug 
 from a quarry at MowcopHill, near Congleton. 
 
 The principal rivers are the Merfee, the Weaver, and the 
 Dee. The Merfee runs from the north-eaft weftward, and 
 dividing this county from Lancafhire, falls into the northern 
 creek of the peninfula. The Weaver rifes in Shropfliire, 
 runs from fouth to north, and falls alfo into the northern 
 creek. The Dee rifes from two fprings near Bala, a market- 
 town in Merionethftiire, in Wales, and is a name fuppofed to 
 have been derived from Dwy, which in the ancient Britifh 
 language fignifies the number two ; it runs north-eaft through 
 Merionethfhire and Denbighfhire, and then directing its 
 courfe north, and feparating Chefliire from North Wales, 
 falls into the fouthern creek of the peninfula. The Dee 
 abounds with falmon and it is remarkable that the longeft 
 and heavieft rains never caufe it to overflow, though it always 
 floods the neighbouring fields when the wind blows frefli ac 
 fouth-weft. The Britilh name of this river is Dyffyr dwy 9 
 a word fignifying the water of two fprings. The komans 
 called it Deva, probably from Dyffyr \ and its prefent name 
 is evidently derived from the fame " fource. Of the names of 
 the Merfee and Weaver there is no account. Befides thefe 
 rivers there are feveral meres and lakes of confiderable extent* 
 which abound with carp, tench, bream, eels, and other fifli. 
 
 This county is divided into feven hundreds, and contains 
 one city and twelve market towns. It lies in the province of 
 York and diocefe of Chefter, and includes one hundred and 
 twenty-four parifhes. 
 
 C I T Y. 
 
 The city of CHESTER derives its name from Caffra, the 
 Latin name for a camp, the Roman legions having feveral 
 times encamped near this place; and the twentieth legion, 
 called Vi&rix, being fettled here by the, emperor Galba t 
 under Titus Vinius, to overawe the. inhabitants of the neigh- 
 bouring counties. 
 
 Chefter is a large, populous, and wealthy city, with a noble 
 bridge, which has a gate at each end, and twelve arches over 
 the Dee, which falls into the fea* It has eleven parifhes, and 
 nine well built churches. The cathedral, call d St, Wer- 
 byrg's, once a monaftery , looks as antique as the caftle. Some 
 
 Vol, I, L fay 
 
8s CHESHIRE. 
 
 fay they were both built by William the Norman's nephew* 
 Hugh Lupus ; and others, that the church was founded by 
 Edgar. The continual refort of paflengers here, to and from 
 Ireland, adds very much to its trade. 
 
 This city is fuppofed to have been founded by theRomans; 
 and after it had fubmitted to the Saxons, the Britons re- 
 covered and kept it, till Egbert, the firft Saxon monarch, took 
 it from them about the year 826 ; and fixty years after it was 
 taken by the Danes ; but they were befieged, and forced to 
 furrender it to the united Saxons and Britons. In the reign 
 of King Edward the Elder it was enlarged ; and King Ed- 
 gar having in the thirteenth year of his reign fummoned all 
 the Kings and Princes of the ifland hither to pay him homage, 
 the Kings of Scotland, Cumberland, and Man, and five petty 
 Kings of Wales, fwore fealty to him, and rowed him in a 
 barge on the river Dee, while he himfelf fat in triumph fleer- 
 ing the helm. 
 
 The houfes here in general are of timber, very large and 
 fpacious, but are built with galleries, piazzas, or covered 
 walls before them, in which the paffengers are fo hid, that to 
 look into the ftreets one fees nobody ftirring, except with 
 horfes, coaches, carts, &c. and the fhops are hardly to be feea 
 from theftreets, fo that they are for the moft part dark and 
 clofe; but in fuch parts where the rows do not cloud the 
 buildings, there are large well built houfes. The ftreets are 
 generally even and fpacious, and crofting one another in ftrait 
 lines meet in the centre. The walls were firft erected by JEdeU 
 fleda, a Mercian lady, in the year 908, and joined on the 
 fouthfideof the city to the caftle, from whence there is a 
 pleafant walk round the city upon the walls, except where it 
 is intercepted by fome of the towers over the gates 5 and from 
 hence there is a profpeft of Flintfhire and the mountains of 
 Wales. The city confifts chiefly of four large ftreets, which 
 make an exadl crofs, with the town-houfe and an exchange in 
 the middle, which is a neat fir u&ure* fupported by columns 
 thirteen feet high, of one ftoneeach. The city has four gates, 
 three pofterns, and is two miles in compafs. The epifcopai fee 
 was firft tranflated to it from Litchfield immediately after the 
 conqueft; but it was afterwards removed to Coventry, and 
 thence back again to Litchfield; fo that Chefter remained 
 without this dignity till it was reftored by King Henry the 
 Eighth. It was made a corporation and county by King 
 9 Henry 
 
CHESHIRE. 83 
 
 Henry the Seventh. It is governed by a mayor, twenty-four 
 aldermen, two fheriffs, and forty common-councii-men. In 
 the caftle, where the Earls of Chefter formerly held their 
 parliaments, is a ftately hall, fomewhat like that at Weftmin- 
 iter, where the palatine courts and affizes are held ; there are 
 al fo offices for the records, a prifon for the county, and a 
 tower afcribed to Julius Caefar. A Dutch colony was fettled 
 here not many years ago, by whofe in'duftry the traffic of this 
 city was much augmented ; but the manufacture of mod note 
 here is tobacco-pipes, faid to be the beft in Europe, being 
 made of clay brought from the Ifle of Wight, Pool, and Bid- 
 deford. Here are affernblies every week, and horfe-races 
 upon St. George's Day, beyond the Rhodce, which is a fine 
 large green, but fo low that it is often overflowed by the Dee. 
 The walls of this city being built like moft of the houfes, 
 of aftone which is a foft reddifh grit, often want repairing} 
 for which purpofe there are officers called Murengers. The 
 keeping of the city gates was once reckoned fo honourable an. 
 office, that it was claimed by feveral noble families ; as Eaft- 
 gate by the Earl of Oxford, Bridge-gate by the Earl of 
 Shrewfbury, Water-gate by the Earl of Derby, and North- 
 gate by the mayor of the city. On the eaft fide of it there is a 
 poftern, which was (hut up by one of its mayors, becaufe bis 
 daughter, who had been atftool-bail> with fome maidens in 
 Pepper-ftreet, was ftolen and conveyed away through this 
 gate; this hasoccafioned a proverb here, " When the daugh- 
 ter is ftolen, (hut Pepper-gate." The city is well fupplied 
 with water from the river Dee by mills, and the water-tower, 
 which is one of the gates of the bridge. The centre of the 
 city, where the four ftreets meet facing the cardinal points, is 
 called thePentife, from whence there is a pleafant profpecf of 
 all four at once. Thefuburb of Hanbrid is called by the Welch 
 Treboth-y that is, Burnt Town j it having been often burnt by 
 them in their incuriions. The fee-farm rents of this city are 
 vefted in the Princes of Wales, as Earls of Chefter, who hold 
 them with the caftle and profits of the temporalities of the 
 bifhoprick, and the freemen fwear to be true to the King 
 and Earl. The officers eftablifoed here are, a governor of 
 the city and caftle, a lieutenant-governor, with a matter* 
 gunner', ftore-keeper, and furbifher of fmall arms ; and for 
 the cuftoms, befides a collector, comptroller, and fearcher, 
 here are twenty-one fubordinate officers. Here isacbarity- 
 
 h % fchool 
 
8 4 
 
 CHESHIRE, 
 
 fchool for forty boys, who are taught, clothed, and maintained 
 by a fund of five hundred pounds and feventy pounds a year 
 fubfcription. This place was of great account fo early as in 
 the days of King Arthur, for teaching the arts and fciences 
 and the learned languages. King Ethelwolf, and two other 
 Britifh Kings, are faid to have been crowned here; and, it is 
 faid, that Henry the Fourth, Emperor of Germany, died and 
 was buried here, after having lived a hermit here unknown 
 for ten years. This city is one hundred and eighty-one miles 
 from London, 
 
 A little below Chefter, on the fouth fide of the peninfula, 
 called Wiral, is Park Gate % the port at which paflengers from 
 England to Ireland take Clipping, and paflengers from Ireland 
 to England come on fliore. 
 
 MARKET- TOWNS. 
 
 Macclesfield is one hundred and feventy miles from 
 London. It is fituated on the river Bollin, and is a borough, 
 governed by a mayor. It has a church, which is a fair edi- 
 fice, with a high fteeple, in form of a fpire ; but it is rather 
 a chapel than a church, for it ftands in the parifh of Preft- 
 bury. On the fouth fide of the church there is a college, 
 founded by Thomas Savage, who was firft Bifhop of London, 
 and then Archbiihop of York; there is alfo an oratory on the 
 fame fide, built by the Leighs of Lime. In this place there 
 is a free fchool, of an ancient foundation; and the chief 
 manufacture is buttons. 
 
 Namptwich lies on the ValeRoyal, on the river Weaver, 
 and is diftant from London one hundred and fixty-one miles. 
 It is the greateft and bell: built town in the county, except 
 Chefter ; the ftreets are regular, and adorned with many gen- 
 tlemen's houfes ; the church is a large and beautifu! flruClure, 
 built in the form of a crofs, like a cathedral, with a fteeple 
 in the middle : it has two charity fchools, one for forty boys, 
 and the other for thirty girls. The inhabitants carry on a 
 considerable trade in cheefe and fait, both which are made her$ 
 in the greateft perfection ; they alfo derive conftderable ad- 
 vantages from its being the greateft thoroughfaie to Ireland, 
 and from the traffic which is carried on at their gre^t weekly 
 fairs for goto and cattle, 
 
 CofJGLETON 
 
CHESHIRE. 85 
 
 Congleton is fo called from its old name Condatum^ 
 which it is fuppofed to derive from Condate^ a town in an- 
 cient Gaul, whence it was peopled. It is one hundred and 
 jixty-one miles diftant from London, and {lands on the borders 
 of Staffordfliire. The town is well built though it is an- 
 cient, and the middle of it is watered by the little brook 
 Howrey, the eaft fide by the Daning Schow, and the north 
 fide by the Dan, over which it has a bridge. It is very popu- 
 lous, and in ancient writings is called a borough ; it is now a 
 corporation, governed by a mayor and fix aldermen, and has 
 two churches. It carries on a confiderable trade in leather- 
 gloves, &c. 
 
 Halton, or Haulton 5 that is, High Town, is fo called 
 from its fituation, which is a hill about two miles north of 
 Frodfliam, and about one hundred and eighty-two miles dif- 
 tant from London. It has a caftle, faid to have been built 
 by Hugh Lupus, to whom the county was granted by Wil- 
 liam the Conqueror, which, with the barony, belongs to the 
 dutchyof Lancafter, and maintains a large jurifdiclion in the 
 county round it, by the name of Halton Fee, or the Honour 
 of Halton, having a court of record and a prifoa. The 
 King's officers of the dutchy keep a Jaw day at the caftle 
 every year about Michaelmas ; and a court is held there once a 
 fortnight, to determine all matters within their jurifdiclion. 
 The inhabitants claim a market here by prefcription, and there is 
 a fmall market held here on a Saturday ; but the town has not 
 been generally confidered as a market- town, nor regiftered as 
 fucli. 
 
 Northwich is one hundred and feventy-two miles diftant 
 from London, and ftands on the river Weaver, near its conflux 
 with the Dan. it appears by the buildings to be of confi- 
 derable antiquity, and is fo near the centre of the county, 
 that it is generally made the place of meeting to tran fact public 
 affairs. There is a deep and plentiful brine pit near the brink 
 of the river Dan, with flairs about it, by which, when they 
 have drawn the water in leathern buckets, they afcend half 
 naked to the troughs and fill them, from whence it is conveyed 
 to the wich houles. The fait is not fo white as at other 
 wiches, nor made with fo much eafe. On thefouth fide of 
 this town, about fifty years ago a great many mines of rock 
 felt were djfcovered 3 which they continue frequently to dig up 
 
 and 
 
86 
 
 CHESHIRE 
 
 and fend in great lumps to the fea-ports, where it 5s diflblved 
 and made intoeating fait. The faltquarries here,when a perfon 
 is let down into them to the depth of about one hundred and 
 fifty feet, afford a moft pleafant profpe£i, looking like a fub- 
 terraneous cathedral fupported by rows of pillars, having a 
 chryftal roof, all of the fame rock, tranfparent and glittering 
 from the numerous candles burnt there to light the workmen, 
 who, with their fteel pjck-axes, dig it away. This rock 
 work extends feveral acres. There is a good church in this 
 town, with a fine roof and femicircular choir. 
 
 Frodsham is a fea-port, diftant from London one hun- 
 dred and eighty-three miles. It is fituated on the river Wea* 
 ver, near its conflux with the Merfee, and has a ftone-bridge 
 over it. It confifts of one long ftreet, at the weft end of 
 which there is a caftle that for many ages was the feat of the 
 Earls Rivers. It has a church, which ftands at a field's 
 length from the town, near a lofty hill called Frodftiam Hill, 
 the higheft in the county, on which there ufed to be a bea- 
 con. About a mile from this town, in the way toHalton, is 
 a bridge over the Weaver, of brick, called Frodfham Bridge. 
 
 Malpas derives its name from the narrow, fteep, rugged 
 way to it. I he Romans called it Malo Pq/Jus 9 and the Nor- 
 mans Malpas^ the name which it ftill retains. It is one 
 hundred and fixty-fix miles from London, and is fituated on 
 a high hill on the borders of Shropfhire, not far from the Dee. 
 It confifts principally of three ftreets, which are now wejl 
 paved. It has a ftately church, which ftands on the higheft 
 part of the town, and the benefice is fo confiderable, that it 
 fupports two re&ors, who officiate alternately. It had for- 
 merly a caftle, and has now a grammar-fchool and an hofpital. 
 
 Middle wich, fo called becaufe it ftands between Nampt- 
 wich and Northwich, is diftant from London one hundred and 
 fixty-fix miles, and ftands on the conflux of the Dan with the 
 Croke. It is an ancient borough, governed by burgefles. It 
 confifts of many ftreets and lanes, and is very populous. The 
 fait water fprings here are faid to produce more fait, in pro- 
 portion to the brine, than thofe at any other place. The 
 parifih extends into many townfhips, and the town has a fpa- 
 cious church* 
 
 Sanpbach 
 
CHESHIRE, 87 
 
 Sandbach is one hundred and fixty-one miles from Lon- 
 don, and is delightfully fituated on the river Wheelock, 
 which flows in three flreams from Mowcop Hill, and falls into 
 the Dan a little above the town. It has a church with a 
 lofty fteeple, and in the market-place there are two ftone 
 crofles, elevated on {reps, and adorned with feveral images, and 
 the hiftory of the fufferings of Chrift carved in baflb relievo. 
 The ale here is much admired, and is faid to be equal to that 
 of Derby. 
 
 Stockport, fometimes called Stopford, is one hundred 
 and feventy-five miles diftant from London, and is fituated on 
 the fouth fide of the river Merfee, over which it had a bridge, 
 but it was blown up in the year 1745, to prevent the rebel 
 army, which had marched from the north of Scotland into 
 the centre of this kingdom, from returning that way. 
 
 Knottesford, Nutford, or Canute's Ford, is one 
 hundred and eighty-three miles from London, and ftands near 
 the Merfee, in a fine fituation. It is divided into two parts, 
 called the Upper and the Lower Town, by a rivulet called 
 Bicken. In the Upper Town there is a church, and in the 
 Lower, a chapel, the market and town-houfe. 
 
 Altrintgham, or Altrincham, is one hundred and 
 eighty-four miles from London, and fituated betweeu War- 
 rington and Stockport, near the borders of Lancafhire. It is 
 governed by a mayor of an ancient inftitution, but contains 
 nothing remarkable* 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 At Woodhay^ near Narnptwich, is the feat of the Earl of 
 Dyfart; and the fame nobleman has another feat at Dutton % 
 thirteen miles fronvChefter. At Cumbermere 9 on the borders 
 of Shropfhire, is a feat of Sir Lynch Salifbury Cotton, baronet. 
 Slough Hally near Chefter, is the feat of Thomas Brereton, 
 Efquire. Kinderton Park^ is the feat of Lord Vernon* 
 Pointon Hill y near Stockport, is the feat of Sir George War- 
 ren. The Earl of Cholmondeley has a feat about feven 
 miles from Narnptwich \ as has alio the Earl of Barry more, at 
 
 Rock 
 
88 CHESHIRE. 
 
 Rock Savage, near P'rodfham ; Lord Grofvenor at Eafon f 
 nearChefter; and Sir Roger Moxton, at Cathrijlleton* in the 
 hundred of Proxton. Crew Hall, in the hundred of Nampt- 
 wich, is the feat of John Crew, Efquire. Vale Royal is the 
 feat of Charles Cholmondeley, Efquire ; and at Lime, in the 
 hundred of Macclesfield, is a feat of Peter Leigh, Efquire. 
 
 In this county there are feveral mineral fprings, parti- 
 cularly at Stockport there is a chalybeat, faid to be ftronger 
 than that at Tunbridge. In the morafl'es, or moffes, whence 
 the country people cut their turf, or peat, for fuel, there are 
 marine fheils in great plenty, pine cones, nuts and fhells, 
 trunks of fir-trees, and fir-apples, with many other exotic 
 fubftances. The moraffes in which thefe fubftances arc 
 found, are frequently upon the fummit of high mountains, 
 and the learned are much divided in their opinion how they 
 came there ; the general opinion is, that they were brought 
 thither by the deluge, not merely from their fituation, but be- 
 caufe feven or eight vaft trees are frequently found lying much 
 clofer to each other than it was poflible they could grow ; and 
 under the trees are frequently found the exuvia of animals, 
 as fhells and bones of fifties ; and particularly the head of an 
 hippotamus was dug from one of thefe moors fome years ago, 
 and wasfeen by Dr. Leigh, who has written the natural hif- 
 tory of this county. There are, however, fubftances of a 
 much latei* date than the general deluge found among thefe 
 trees and exuvia, particularly a mill*ftone, a brafs kettle, and 
 fome amber beads, which were given to the doctor foon after 
 they were dug up. The fir-trees are dug up by the peafants, 
 and are fo full of turpentine, that they are cut into flips, and 
 ufed inftead of candles. 
 
 At Sanghall, near Chefter, there lived in the year 1668, a 
 woman aged feventy-two years, who had two horns growing 
 out of the right fide of her head, a little above her ear. When 
 fhe was twenty-eight years old, an excrefcence grew out of 
 this part of her head, which refembled a wen; after it had 
 continued thirty-two years, it (hot out into two horns, about 
 three inches long; after they had continued five years fhe caft 
 them, and two mote came up in their room ; after four yesrs 
 fhe caft thefe, and two more grew up in their room, which 
 continued growing four years, and then became loofe# 
 
 There 
 
CHESHIRE. 89 
 
 There is afmall wild white*hart cherry, peculiar toalittle 
 fpot in this county, near Frodfham ; where there is alfo a 
 free-ftone rock, in which the belemnites, or thunderbolt, has 
 been often found. 
 
 At a little diftance from Delamere Foreft, near a village 
 called JBunbury, ftands Beejlon Cajile^ which was built by 
 Ranulph the Third, the fixth earl of Chefter, after the con- 
 queft, when he returned from the holy war. This Ranulph 
 begun his government in the year 1180, and having governed 
 fomething more than fifty years, died in 1232. The caftle, 
 which covers a great extent of ground, ftands upon a hill, 
 and is fortified, as well by the mountains that aimoft furround 
 it, as by its wall, and the great number of its towers ; the 
 chief of thefe towers was fupplied with water from a well that 
 is ninety-one yards deep, though it is fuppofed to be near 
 half filled up with rubbifh that has either fallen into it by ac- 
 cident, or been thrown into it by defign. This caftle is now in 
 a ruinous condition, but Leland,in fome verfes which he wrote 
 upon it, fays, that if old prophecies are to be believed, it will 
 in fome future time recover its original fplendour. — Neat 
 this place there are many traces ©f ditches and other military 
 works. 
 
 In a ruinous fabrick, called the Chapter^ at Chefter, there 
 was difcovered, about thirty years ago, a fkeleton, fuppofed to 
 be the remains of Hugh Lupus, Earl of Chefter; the bones 
 were very frefli, and in their natural pofition ; they were 
 wrapped in leather, and contained in a ftone coffin ; the legs 
 were bound together at the ancles, and the ftring was emiree 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 M 
 
 CORNWALL 
 
CORNWALL 
 
 npHIS county isboundedon the fouth, the weft,and thenorth, 
 * by the fea, and on the eafl: by the river Tamar, which 
 divides it from Devonshire. Itsgreatefl length, eaft and weft 1 , 
 is feventy-eight miles and an half, and its greateft width, 
 fouth-fouth-eaft to north-north-weft, is forty-three miles and 
 a quarter. 
 
 Four-fifths of the outlines of this county being wafhed by 
 the fea, the air is neceflarily more damp than in places more 
 remote from the coaft. A dry fumrner is here extremely rare; 
 but the rains are rather frequent than heavy; and there are 
 few days fo wet but that feme part of them is fair, and few fo 
 cloudy but that there are intervals of fun fhine. Storms of 
 wind are more fudden and more violent than within the land, 
 and the air is impregnated with fait, which rifes with the va- 
 pours from the fea. This quality of the air is very unfavourable 
 tofcorbutic habits ; it is alfo hurtful to fhrubs and trees, and 
 in general to tender fhoots of whatever kind, which after a 
 ftorm that drives the fea air upon them, generally appear 
 flirivelied, and have a fait tafte; for which reafon there are no 
 plantations of wood on riling grounds, nor any fuch hedge- 
 rows of tall trees in Cornwall, as there are in the northern 
 counties of England, which, though farther from the fun, 
 are not expofed to blafis from the fea. In Cornwall, how- 
 ever, the winters are more mild than in any other part of the 
 ifland, fo that myrtles will fiourifli without a green-houfe, if 
 they are fecured from the fait winds that blow from the fea* 
 The fnow feldom lies more than three or four days upon the 
 ground, and a violent fhower of hail is fcarcely ever known. 
 The fpring (hews itfelf early in buds and bloflbms, but its 
 cogrefs is not fo quick as elfevvhere. The fummers are not 
 otter in proportion as the winters are lefs cold ; for the air is 
 always cooled by a breeze from the fea, and the beams of the 
 fun are not refieded from the furrounding water with fo much 
 
 ftrength 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 flrength as from the earth ; it happens, therefore, that though 
 Cornwall is the moft fouthern county in England, yet the 
 barveft is later, and the fruit has lefs flavour, than in the mid- 
 land parts. As the county abounds in mines, the air is filled 
 with mineral vapours, which in fome parts are fo inflammable 
 as to take fire, and appear in flames over the grounds from 
 which they arife. But notwithftanding the faline and mine- 
 ral particles that float in the atmofphere, the air of Cornwall 
 is very healthy ; for it is in a great meafure free from the ex- 
 halations that in other places arife from bogs, marfhes, and 
 ftanding pools, and from the corrupt air that ftagnates in the 
 dead calm that is often found among thick woods. In Corn- 
 wall the country is open, the foil in general found, and the air 
 always in motion, which may well atone for any noxious ef- 
 fluvia fuppofed to rife either from the mines or the fea. 
 
 The foil of Cornwall is of three kinds, the black and 
 gritty, the fhelfey and flattey, and the ftiff reddifh foil, ap- 
 proaching to clay. The higheft grounds are covered with 
 the black foil $ and on the tops and fides of hills it bears 
 nothing but fourgrafs, mofs, and heath, which is cut up in 
 thin turfs forfpring; and in the places where the ground 
 is level or hollow, fo that the rain cannot run ofF, which are 
 few, and but of fmall extent, it is formed into bogs and 
 marfhes; thefe bogs yield nothing but a thick brick turf, full 
 of the matted roots of fedge-grafs 3 the j uncus, and other marfh 
 plants, which, when perfe&Iy dry, make a ftrong fuel. In 
 crofts further down from the hills, this black foil ferves as 
 wintering for horned cattle, and bears good potatoes, rye, 
 and pillas ; in fields it bears barley and oats, and ferves as pas- 
 ture for cows and fheep, but feldom yields any advantages 
 when it isfown with wheat. The fhelfey flattey foil is found 
 chiefly about the middle of the county ; this is reckoned to 
 bear better corn, efpeeially wheat, and a flronger fpine of 
 grafs than the black. The reddifh loamy foil, which is com- 
 mon on level grounds and gentle declivities, is of a clofer 
 texture and yields better crops. But thefe three foils are not 
 always found diftinfl: from each other, but in many places are 
 mixed in a great variety of proportions. 
 
 In the mines of this county there are often found the 
 ochrous earths of metals, therufly ochre of iron, the green 
 and blue ochres of copper, and the pale yellow ochre of lead, 
 the brown yellow of tin, and the red ochre of bifmuth. The 
 
 M 2 ochre 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 ochre of lead, in its natural ftate, mixes well with oil, and 
 gives a colour between the light and brown ochre* There is 
 alfo, in almoft every parifh, ftrata of clay for making brick, as 
 well as white clay for tobacco-pipes, bricks for fmelting- , 
 houfes and other purpofes, and a great variety of the clay 
 called fteatites, from their extreme refemblance of tallow* 
 
 Of the fea-fands there is in this county a great variety ; 
 fome arefpread in a ftratum on the higheft hills, and fomeare 
 found in the cliffs far above the higheft fea mark, On the fide 
 of St. Agnes Beacon, one of the higheft hills on the fea fhore* 
 at the height of at leaft four hundred and eighty feet above 
 the level of the fea, the ftrata appeared, upon digging, in the 
 following order : The vegetable foil and common rubbifh 
 under it, five feet deep; of fine white and yellow clay, fix 
 feet; under this a layer of fand like that of the fea below ; 
 fix feet under this a layer of round fmooth ftones, fuch as are 
 found on the beech ; then a layer of white ftoney rubbiflior 
 earth, four feet deep; and then the firm rock, within which 
 are veins of tin. 
 
 The principal rivers of Cornwall are the Tamar and the 
 Canel. The Tamar rifes in Moor-Winftow, the moft 
 northern parifh in this county, about three miles from the 
 fea coaft. It iffues from the fummitof a moor, whence part 
 of the water defcending to the north, forms the river Tur- 
 ridge ; and the other parts, defcending to the fouth, forms 
 the Tamar. At the diftance of about ten miles from its 
 fouice, it gives name to the fmall parifh and vitfage called 
 North Tamerton, where it is crofled by a ftone bridge. In 
 its courfe it receives many fmall ftreams ; and at Polfton 
 Bridge (a lar^e fair ftone fabric, erected, asLeland fays, by the 
 abbey of Tavi(iock) it becomes a wide and rapid ftream. 
 As it continues its courfe, it pafles under another, called 
 Greyfton 1 Bridge, about twenty miles from its courfe. The 
 ftream ftill increafing by the conflux of other waters, pafTes 
 under a high, {hong, ftone bridge, at Stoke Clymfland, called 
 Horfe Bridge. At a fmall diftance it pafTes under another 
 bridge, foraetimds called Calftock Bridge, from the parifh in 
 whicl" -rftands; and fometimes New Bridge. Five miles 
 farther down the Tamar becomes a fpacious harbour; 
 and pafling within half a mile of Sakafh, it is joined 
 by the creek and river called Lynher ; and then palling 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 ftrait forward, forms the noble harbour called Hamoaze, a 
 Saxon word, fignifying the wet or oozy habitation or diftrift. 
 At this place it makes two large creeks on the weft, one called 
 St. John's, the other Millbrook ; and one creek to the eaft, 
 called Stonehoufe Creek ; and then (after a courfe of about 
 forty miles, nearly fouth,} it falls into the fea. 
 
 The Camel rifes about two miles north of Camelford, and 
 after a courfe of about twelve roiles, it becomes navigable for 
 barges, A few miles further it runs by Eglofhayle,the church 
 on the river, where it receives a fmall ftream called the Laine, 
 About a mile further, it runs under the largeft bridge in this 
 county, called Wade Bridge. The erection of this bridge 
 was undertaken by the vicar of Eglofhayle, whofe name was 
 Lovedon, in the year 1460, as a work of public utility, 
 there being at that time a ferry which could be plied only 
 when the tide was in; and when the tide was out the ford 
 was very dangerous. The expence of this noble work was 
 greatly difproportioned to his circumftances ; and in the 
 courfe of the work many difficulties arofe, by which a mind 
 lefs ardent and lefs firm would have been driven from its pur- 
 pofe. The foundation of fome of the piers proved fo fwampy, 
 that after many other expedients had been tried, without fuc- 
 cefs, they were at lad built upon woolpacks. But Lovedon, 
 whatever might be his difficulties and discouragements, per- 
 fevered ; and being affifted by the bounty of others, whofe 
 affiftance he folicired with unwearied application, when his 
 own powers were exhaufted, he lived to fee the bridge com- 
 pleted as it now ftands, with feven teen arches ftretching quite 
 acrofs the valley, to the great emolument of this county, and 
 the immortal honour of his name. Small barks of fifty or 
 fixty tons come up to this bridge, and fupply the country 
 with coals from Wales, and with lime, timber, and grocery, 
 from Briftol. About a mile below the bridge, the Camel 
 forms two fmall creeks to the eaft, and foon after two others 
 to the weft. After it has flowed about a mile farther, it 
 reaches Padftow, where it is about a mile wide, and th^re is a 
 ferry* boat to crofs it* About two miles below Padftow the 
 fea has thrown a bar of fand acrofs the haven, which prevents 
 fhips of more than two hundred tons from coming in at all, and 
 renders it dangerous even for fmaller (hips to come in, except 
 yyhen the tide is high and the weather fair. 
 
 Be fides 
 
CORNWALL* 
 
 Befides the Tamar and the Camel, there are in this county 
 the following fmall rivers : 
 
 The Lynher, which rifes on fome hills, in tlvt parifh of 
 Altarum, about eight miles weft of Launcefton, and after a 
 courfeof about twenty-four miles, falls into the Tamar. In 
 fummer the ftream is fmall, but in winter rapid , wide, and 
 dangerous, frequently over-flowing its banks, avad carrying 
 away ricks, barns, and houfes, and whatever elfe happens to 
 be in its way. 
 
 The Tide, or Tidi, which rifes on the fouth fide of a hill 
 called Caradon Hill, near Lifkeard, and falls into the Lynher 
 a little below St. Germans. 
 
 The Seaton, which rifes in fome high lands cal Jed St. Clare, 
 about four miles to the north-eaft cf Lifkeard $ and its whole 
 courfe is about twelve miles. 
 
 The Loo, or Eaft Loo, which, as well as the Seaton, has 
 its rife on the high lands of St. Clare, and after a courfe of 
 about ten miles, falls into the fea. A bridge croffes this river 
 from Eaft Loo to Weft Loo; it is built of ftone, over fifteen 
 arches, and is one hundred and forty-one y?»rds long, and fix 
 feet three inches wide between the walls. 
 
 The Duloo, that is, the .Black Loo ; or, as it isfometiraes 
 called, the Weft Loo, which rifes in the parifli of St. Pi- 
 nock, and after a courfe of about feven miles, falls into the 
 Eaft Loo. 
 
 The Fawy,or Faewy, which rifes in a moor called Fauwy 
 Moor, near a mountain called Brownwilly, which is one of 
 the higheft in the county. It paffes under fix bridges ; and 
 having received feveral riv ulets in a courfe of twenty-fix 
 miles, it falls into the fea between two old towers that were 
 built in the reign of Edward; the Fourth. 
 
 The Fal, or Fala, rifes at a place called Fenton Val, about 
 two miles to the weft of fome hills called Roche Hills ; and 
 after a courfe of about twen ty miles, falls into the fea, form- 
 ing an harbour near a mile vnde, fecured with hills and wind- 
 ing creeks, with a deep ch annel and a bold fhore. In this 
 harbour an hundred fhips may anchor, and not one fee the 
 other's top. It is alfo conveniently fituated for getting clear of 
 the Channel, and (yielding only to Milford Haven, on the 
 coaftof Wales) it is reckoned the fecond harbour in Great 
 Britain. There is, however, a large rock near the middle of 
 it, the top of which is below higl\ water mark $ but no da- 
 mage 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 magO happens from it, becaufe the heirs of Killigrew (the 
 lordts of Pendennis caftle, which guards the entrance) are 
 obliged to keep a tall pole fixed on the higheft part of it, fa 
 thaf: the fituation is always feen and avoided. 
 
 TheHel, which iflues from fome hills nearPenhal Guy; 
 and after a courfe of about fix miles falls into the fea, where 
 it forms a haven, and is near a mile wide. 
 
 The Lo, or Loo, which is called the Loo in Kerrier, the 
 name of the hundred through which it flows, to diftinguifh it 
 from the Eaft and Weft Loo, rifes in the north part of a 
 parifh called Windron ; and after a courfe of about fix 
 miles falls into the fea, having firft formed a lake called Loo 
 Pool. 
 
 The Hel or Hey], in Penrith, which rifes from four brooks, 
 about three miles north of a place called St. Erth ; and after 
 a courfe of more than five miles, falls into the fea at Selves 
 Bay. 
 
 Thefe are all the rivers in Cornwall that ^ire navigable in 
 any pare of their courfe: the others are too inconfiderable to 
 be particularly mentioned. 
 
 The natural product of this county are wheat, barley, 
 oats and rye; of which, in a plentiful year, fome can be 
 fpared for exportation ; in a moderate year there is juft fuffi* 
 cient for home confumption ; and in a year of fcarcity, it is 
 neceflary to purchafe from other counties. — Among the pro- 
 ducts of this county may be reckoned the ftones that are ufed 
 either for building or for ornament. The furface of the 
 ground in almoft every part of Cornwall, yields an opaque 
 whitifli chryftal, commonly called white fpar, in great plenty ; 
 thefe are ufed only to repair the roads and face hedges* 
 On the fouth-eaft coaft, between Lifkeard and the Tamar, 
 there are fome quarries of flate, which is exported in confi- 
 derable quantities. And at a place called Denyball, not far 
 from Bofliney, on the north coaft, there is a quarry of flate 
 for covering roofs, faid to be the fineft in the world. The 
 whole quarry is about three hundred yards long, and one hun- 
 dred wide; the deepeft part is judged to be about forty fathom 
 below the grafs ; the green fod reaches downwards about one 
 foot; a yellow brown clay two feet more; then the rock, 
 which, to the depth of twelve fathom, confifts of a lax fhac- 
 tery flate, which is fie for nothing ; then comes a firmer brown 
 ftone, which becomes fiill browner in the air, and is fit both 
 
 for 
 
q6 C O R N W A L Li 
 
 for paving and roofing ; this is called the top ftone, and the 
 ftratum is ten fathom deep j under this lies the fine flate, 
 which is called the bottom ftone ; it Is of a grey blue colour, 
 and of a texture fo clofe, that it founds upon being ftruck, 
 like metal* — At St. Columb, farther towards the Land's End, 
 on the north coaft, there is a quarry of free-ftone, of which 
 noufe is made, though it might well ferve all the purpofes of 
 Portland, but is not quite fo fine. — This county alfo abounds 
 with coarfe granites of various colours and different degrees 
 of continuity. There are alfo fome quarries of marble, but 
 it is not remarkable either for its beauty or ufe ; but there are 
 no gravel pits where pebbles and flints lie in heaps and ftrata, 
 though the beach of the bays and creeks is ftrewed with an 
 infinite variety of both. The fwimming ftone has been found 
 in a copper mine near Redruth ; it confifts of re£tilinear la- 
 mina as thin as paper, interfering each other in all directions, 
 and leaving unequal cavities between them ; a ftru&ure 
 which renders the ftone fo cellular as to fwim in water. 
 Gems of feveral kinds have been found in the tin mines, but 
 fo fmall as not to be critically examined without a microfcope, 
 particularly topazes very highly coloured, rubies as red as a 
 carbuncle, hyacinths, and amethyfts. Of chryftals there is 
 great variety both figured and plain. — Another product of 
 this county is femi-metal, of which there is a great variety ; 
 bifmuth, fpeltre, zink, naptha, antimony, lapis calaminaris, 
 and molybdasna, or pencil lead $ cobalt, a fubftance contain* 
 ing arfenic, zafter, and fmalt; and mundic, called alfo mar- 
 cafite, which contains arfenic,fu!phur,vitriol, and mercury.— 
 But the principal produdl of this county is tin and copper ; 
 thefe metals are found in veins or fiflures, which are fome* 
 times filled with other fubftances, and the fubitance, whatever 
 it is, with which fiflures are filled, is in Cornwall called a 
 lode, from an old Anglo-Saxon word, which fignifies to lead, 
 as the miners always follow iis direction. The courfe of the 
 fiflures is generally eaftand weft, not however in a ftrait line, 
 but wavy, and one fide is fometimes a hard ftone, and the 
 other loofe clay. Moft of thefe lodes are impregnated with 
 metal, but none are impregnated equally in all parts, Thefe 
 lodes arc not often more than two feet wide, and tne greater 
 part is not more than one 5 but, in genera!, the fmaller the 
 lode the better the metal. The direction of thefe lodes is fel- 
 
 dom 
 
CORNWALL. 97 
 
 dom perpendicular, but declines to the right or left, though 
 in different degrees. Tin is the peculiar and moft valuable 
 produdt of the county ; it affords employment, and confe- 
 quently fubfiftence to the poor, affluence to the lords. of the 
 foil, a confiderable revenue to our Prince of Wales, who is 
 Duke of Cornwall, and an important article of trade to the 
 nation in all the foreign markets of the known world. Cop- 
 per is no where found richer, or in greater variety of ores than 
 in Cornwall; though the mines have not been worked with 
 much advantage longer than eighty years. The moft common 
 ore is of a common brafs colour ; but there is fome green, 
 fome blue, fome black, fome grey, and fome red ; the green, 
 blue, and black, yield but little; the grey contains more me- 
 tal than the yellow, and the red more than the grey. There 
 are befides, in almoft all the confiderable mines, fmall quan- 
 tities of malleable copper, which the miners, from its purity, 
 call the virgin ore. The annual income to the county from 
 copper is at this time nearly equal to that of tin ; and both 
 are {till capable of improvement. Befides tin and copper, 
 Cornwall produces iron, though there are no mines of this 
 metal yet worked in the county. Lead is alfo found in 
 fome parts of this county, but the greater part of it is what 
 the miners call potters ore. Gold in very fmall quanti- 
 ties has alfo fometimes been difcovered in the tin ore. 
 
 With refpect to trees, whether of the forefl or orchard, 
 there is fcarcely any thing peculiar to this county. The plants 
 and herbage both of the field and garden, are alfo nearly the 
 fame as in other counties ; and the fea plants are not different 
 from thofe found on other parts of the coaft, neither is there 
 any animal, whether of the air, earth, or water, that is pecu- 
 liar to this county, except the pyrrhocorax, a crow with a 
 red bill and red feet, called the Cornifh chough, and thefeal, 
 or fea calf, which is frequently found in the caves and other 
 parts of thefhores which are leaft frequented. 
 
 This county is divided into nine hundreds, and contains 
 thirty-one towns which are incorporated, or have a market 5 
 for as fome market-towns are not corporations, fome corpo- 
 rations have no market, it lies in the diocefe of Exeter, and 
 province of Canterbury, 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 N MARKET-TOWNS 
 
gS CO RNWALL. 
 
 MARKET-TOWNS and PARLIAMENTARY 
 BOROUGHS. 
 
 Launceston Is fituated on a riling ground near the river 
 Tamar,and is two hundred and fourteen miles from London. 
 It includes two ancient boroughs, called Dunhivid, or Dune- 
 vet, and Newport. It was made a free borough by King 
 Henry the Third, and incorporated by Queen Mary in 1555. 
 It is governed by a mayor, recorder, and eight aldermen. It 
 is a populous and trading town, and one of the moft ancient 
 in the county. It has a parifh church, dedicated to St. Mary 
 Magdalen, whofe image is curioufly cut in the wall ; and here 
 are alfo the remains of a caftle, which was once fo ftrong a 
 place as to obtain the name of Caftle Terrible. The round 
 hill on which it ftands is environed with a triple wall, but it 
 is at prefent fo much decayed that no part of it is ufed except 
 that which ferves for the county gaol. Here the knights of 
 the {hire are eleded ; and here is a free fchool and two cha- 
 rity fchools; the free fchool was founded by Queen Elizabeth, 
 and the charity fchools are fupported by private contribution. 
 They are for the benefit of both fexes ; and the girls, befides 
 reading, are taught to knit, few, and make bone lace, and are 
 allowed what they earn. By an act made in the thirty- 
 fecond year of King Henry the Eighth for the repair of Cor- 
 nifh boroughs, this town was endowed with the privilege of a 
 fan&tiary, but it does not appear that thefe privileges have 
 ever been claimed. 
 
 Bodmin is two hundred and thirty-two miles from Lon- 
 don, and is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty- 
 four ccmmon-councilmen, and a town-clerk, who have a toll 
 and lands to the value of about two hundred pounds a year. 
 This town lies between two hills almoft in the centre of the 
 county, a fituation which renders it lefs healthful than any 
 other part of Cornwall. It confifts chiefly of one ftreet, 
 which is near a mile long, and runs from eaft to weft. 
 Its church is the largeft in the county, and had once a fpire, 
 but that wa9 deftroyed by lightning in the year 1699. The 
 remains of an epifcopal palace and priory are ftill to be feen, 
 and in the reign of King Henry the Eighth it was reckoned 
 the largeft town in the county. Here is a good corn and flefli 
 market, the fheriff *s prifon for debtors, and a free fchool, 
 
 maintained 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 99 
 
 maintained partly by the Duke of Cornwall, and partly by 
 the corporation The principal manufacture is yarn, for 
 which Bodmin was once the only ftaple in the county, but in 
 this it is much decayed. A carnival is kept every July on 
 Halgaver Moor, near this town, which is reforted toby great 
 numbers. — Near Bodmin is a well, vvhofe water is remarkable 
 for being much heavier than any other, and for preferving its 
 fcent and tafte for near a year fucceffively. Though this well 
 is called Scarlet Well, yet it difcovers a great variety of co- 
 lours. — Not far from this place likevvife are thofe monumental 
 ftones, called the Hulers, which Dr. Stukely makes no doubt 
 are the remains of an ancient Druid temple. They Hand on 
 a down in three circles, and had their name from the fuper- 
 ftitious notion of the peafants thereabouts, that they were 
 once men, but transformed into ftones for diverting themfelves 
 cn Sundays at their favourite exercife of hurling, 
 
 Liskeard is two hundred and twenty miles from London, 
 and was firft incorporated by Edward Earl of Cornwall, and 
 afterwards by Queen Elizabeth ; in virtue of whofe charter it 
 is governed by a mayor and burgefTes, has power to purchafe 
 lands, and to hold by perpetual fucceffion. It ftands upon a 
 hill, and is faid to be now one of the largeft and beft built 
 towns in Cornwall, though in the reign of King James the 
 Firft itconfifted of little eife than the ruins of ancient build- 
 ings, which Ihewed that it had once been great. The church 
 is large, and the town-hall is a handfome building, erected oa 
 ftone pillars, with a turret, in which there is a clock that has 
 four dials. This town has alfo a curious conduit, a meet- 
 ing-houfe, and a free fchool. It carries on a confiderable 
 trade in the manufacture of leather, and fpins confiderable 
 quantities of yarn for the Devonfhire clothiers. — Near this 
 town there is a park, where the late Lord Radnor had a fine 
 feat ; and on the adjacent commons there have been frequent 
 horfe-races. 
 
 Lostwithiel is two hundred and twenty-nine miles from 
 London, and was firft incorporated by Richard Earl of Corn- 
 wall, and has had other charters fince. It is governed by feven 
 capital burgefies,of whom one is a mayor, and feventeen arlif- 
 tants, or common council. It originally flood upon a high 
 hill, where there are ftill the remains of an ancient cattle 
 
 N 2 called 
 
ioo CORNWALL. 
 
 called Leftormin,or Reftormel, which was the Duke of Corn* 
 wall's palace; but the town is now removed into the valley ; 
 and though it is well built, it is not populous, becaufe the 
 river Fawey, on which it ftands, is fo choaked with fand,that 
 it is no longer navigable for the veflels, which in the laft age 
 ufed to bring manufactures and commodities of various kinds 
 quite up to the town. It has, however, fome peculiar privi- 
 leges : the common gaol for all the ftannaries, and their feve- 
 ral weights and meafures are kept here; and this town holds 
 the bufhelage of coals, fait, malt, and corn in Fowey, and 
 the anchorage in its harbour, for which, and other liberties, 
 it pays eleven pounds, nineteen fhillings, and ten pence a year 
 to the dutchy of Cornwall. It has a church with a fpire, 
 the only one, except that of Helfton, in the whole county. 
 The great hall and exchequer of the Dukes of Cornwall 
 were defaced in 1644. The trade that remains is woollen 
 manufactures. 
 
 HelsTon is two hundred and feventy miles from London, 
 was incorporated by Queen Elizabeth, and is governed by a 
 inayor, aldermen, and common council. Ic is fituated on the 
 river Cober, not far from its influx into the fea, and is a large 
 and populous town. It is one of the towns appointed for the 
 coinage of tin, and is the place of aflembly for the weft divi- 
 lion of the ihire. It chiefly conlifts of fome ftreets, built in 
 the form of a crofs, through each of which runs aftream of 
 water. At the interferon of thefe ftreets ftands the mar- 
 ket-houfe, which is a large convenient building. This town 
 has alfo a guildhall and a church, with a fteeple that is ninety 
 feet high, and ferves as a fea mark. A little below the town 
 is a harbour, by no means contemptible, where many of the 
 tin fliips take in their loading. 
 
 Bossiney, called alfo Tintagel and Trevena, is two 
 hundred and thirty-three miles from London, and governed 
 by a mayor and hurgefies* This town ftands upon two rocks, 
 one of which is on the main land, and the other in the fea. 
 The two parts were formerly drawn together by a drawbridge, • 
 which has been fince deftroyed by the rail of the cliffs on the 
 farther fide, which has filled up the fpace between the two 
 parts of the town; but the pafiage over thefe cliffs is ex- 
 tremely troublefome and dangerous. The farthermoft of the 
 
 rocks 
 
CORNWALL. lot 
 
 rocks that was furrounded by the fea, 5s called Black Head, 
 and is well known to mariners. It is wholly inacceffible by 
 water, except at one place towards the eaft, and there it is very 
 difficult and incommodious. In this place it was formerly 
 fenced with a wall, through which there was an entrance by 
 an iron gate by the declivity of the rock, which was very 
 fleep and craggy ; and there is a cave under this rock or 
 ifland, which reached quite through it to the main, on the 
 other fide of the draw-bridge, and was navigable for boats at 
 full fea ; but the farther end of it is now flopped by the ftu- 
 pendous fragments of the rock that have fallen down ; and 
 when the paffage was open, the fubterraneous darknefs and 
 rude afpecT: of the cavern gave it fo horrid an appearance that 
 few ventured to go through it. On the rock above are the 
 ruins of a caftle, faid to have been the birth-place of the Bri- 
 tifti King Arthur. The place at this time is very inconfide- 
 rable, being little more than the ruins of ancient buildings, 
 mod of which were of ftone, joined together by a cement fo 
 ftrong that where the ftone itfelf is wafted away this fre- 
 quently remains. 
 
 Falmouth, fo called from its fituation at the mouth of 
 the river Fal, is two hundred and fixty-three miles from Lon- 
 don. It is governed by a mayor and aldermen, and is the 
 richeft and moft trading town in the county, being fuperior 
 to any three of the boroughs that fend members to parliament. 
 The harbour, which is guarded by the caftles of St. Maws 
 and Pendennis, is defcribed in the account of the river Fal, 
 by which it is formed. The to wn is well built, and has a 
 church, which was formerly a chapel to that of the panfii of 
 St. Gluvias ; but by an a£t of the fifteenth of King Charles 
 the Second it was made a parifti church. The cuftom-houfs 
 for moft of the Cornifo towns is at this place, where the prin- 
 cipal collectors of thofe duties refide. About the time of 
 King William packet-boats were eftablifhed here for Spain, 
 Portugal, and the Weft Indies, which has greatly increafed 
 the trade of the place. Thefe veifels bring over great quan- 
 tities of gold both in fpecie and bars^ and the merchants of 
 Falmouth now trade with the Portuguefe in ihips of their 
 own ; they have alfo a considerable fhare in the pilchard filhery, 
 which brings in very great profit. 
 
 Fowey, 
 
102 CORNWALL. 
 
 Fowey, or Fawey, fo called from the river on which it 
 ftands, is two hundred and thirty~nine miles from London, and 
 is governed by a mayor, recorder, and eight aldermen, a tovvn- 
 eierk, and other officers, who hold the toll of the fair, and 
 quayage of the harbour, under the dutchy, at forty (hillings 
 per annum rent. Fowey has a commodious haven in the 
 Channel, and is both populous and extenfive, reaching more 
 than a mile on the eaft fide of the river. There was for- 
 merly a fort on each fide of the harbour, and a chain reaching 
 from one to the Gther quite acrofs the river. The remains of 
 the fort are (till vifible, but the chain has long fince difap- 
 peared, though it is faid to be (till defended by blockhoufes 
 and ordnance* It has a fine large old church, a free-fchool, 
 and a public hofpital. This place flouriflied greatly in for- 
 mer times, by naval wars and piracies; and the Fowey Ihips 
 are faid to have refufed to ftrike as they failed by fome of the 
 cinque ports, upon which they were attacked, but having de- 
 feated the affailants, the inhabitants gained the honourable ap- 
 pellation of The Gallants of Fowey 5 and the town, as a me- 
 morial of her triumph, quartered the arms of the cinque ports 
 with their own. This town is, indeed, a member of the 
 cinque ports, having obtained that privilege from King Ed- 
 ward the Third, for (uccouring certain fhips belongihg to Rye 
 that were in diftrefs. It has itill a confiderable (hare in the 
 fifhing trade, efpecially that of pilchards. 
 
 Saltash is about two hundred and twenty miles from 
 London, being the firft town in the county, it was incor- 
 porated by a charter of King Charles the Second, and is go- 
 verned by a mayor and fix aldermen, who are ftiled the council 
 of the borough, and, with the burgefles, may chufe a re- 
 corder. In this corporation the manor of the borough is 
 vefted ; and on the payment of eighteen pounds a year, it 
 has all the tolls of the markets and fairs. Saltafli is fituated 
 on the declivity of a deep hill, not more than three miles 
 from Plymouth-Dock, to which there is a ferry over 
 the Tamar, called the Crimble Paffage. The church of this 
 town is a chapel of eafe to the parifh of St. Stephen, in 
 which it ftands. It has an handfome market-houfe and town- 
 houfe, with a free-fchool. This town belongs to the honour 
 of Tidmorton Caftle, from which it derives many large privi- 
 leges over its haven, viz, a court of admiralty, a yearly re- 
 venue 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 venue from its own boats and barges, anchorage and foilage 
 from all foreign veflels, the profits of the Crimble ferry, and 
 the right of dragging for oyfters, except between Candlemas 
 and Eafter, with a coroner's inqueft, &c. The harbour will 
 receive (hips of any burthen ; and the inhabitants carry on a 
 confiderable trade in malt and beer; they alfo furnifti the in- 
 habitants of Plymouth Dock with almoft all the neceffaries 
 that are fold at market ; for they chafe rather to go by water 
 to Saltafh market, in the town-boat, than to Plymouth, be- 
 caufe provifions are much cheaper at Saltafh than Plymouth, 
 and becaufe the boat, without any additional expence, brings 
 home what they buy. There are fome merchants in this 
 place who have fhips that of late years have ufed the New- 
 foundland fifhery. 
 
 Truro is two hundred and fifty-one miles from London, 
 and is fo called becaufe it confifts chiefly of three Ureses, as the 
 Cornifh word Truru fignifies. It was firft incorporated by 
 King John, fince by Queen Elizabeth, and is now governed 
 by a mayor, four aldermen, and a recorder* The mayor of 
 this place is alfo mayor of Falmouth, and the quayage of 
 goods laden or unladen there belongs to this town, Wheii 
 the mayor isele<8ed, he is obliged by cuftom to deliver op '"his 
 mace to the lord of the manor, till fixpence is paid forever/ 
 houfe in the town, and then it is redelivered by the lord's 
 fleward to the mayor again, Truro is fituated near the con* 
 flux of twofmall rivers, which almoft furround it, and form 
 a large wharf, with a commodious quay for veffels of about am 
 hundred tons. The ftreets are regular, and the church, 
 which is a large Gothic building, is not inferior to any in the 
 county, The chief trade confifts in. fhipping off tin and 
 copper ore. The copper abounds between this town and 
 St. Michael's, and the works are greatly improved fince the 
 ere&ion of the copper mills near Briftol, 
 
 Penryn is two hundred and fixty«one miles from Lon- 
 don, and having been incorporated by King James the Firft, 
 is governed by a mayor, eleven aldermen, and a common* 
 council of twelve, with a recorder and other officers, who are 
 inverted with a power to try felons in their jurifdi&ion. Pen* 
 ryn is fituated upon a hill at the entrance of Falmouth har- 
 bour, near Pendennis caftle, and has fo many gardens and or- 
 chards 
 
104 CORNWALL. 
 
 chards that it looks like a town in a wood. It is well watered 
 with rivulets, and has an arm of the fea on each fide of it, 
 with a good cuftorn-houfe, quay, and other neat buildings. 
 In this town are the ruins of a collegiate church, founded by 
 Brancomb, Bifhopof Exeter, confifting of a tower, and part 
 of the garden walls. There is alfo a free»fchool here, founded 
 by Queen Elizabeth, a prifon, and a guildhall. Penryn is 
 inhabited by many merchants, who carry on a confiderable 
 trade in catching, drying, and vending pilchards, and in the 
 Newfoundland fifhery, 
 
 St. Ives is two hundred and feventy-four miles from Lon- 
 don, and is governed by a mayor, twelve capital and twenty- 
 four inferior burgefles, with a recorder and town-clerk. St. Ives 
 was an harbour in the Irifh fea, but it now almoft choaked up 
 with fand, the coaft from this place to the Land's End being a 
 long tracT: of fand banks, fo that the people have been more 
 than once forced to remove. The town is now fmall, but 
 has a handfome church, which, however, is but a chapel to 
 the parifh of Uni-Lelant, and ftands fo near the fea that the 
 waves often break againft it. The bay, called St. Ives Bay, 
 which receives the river He!, is remarkable for a prodigious 
 quantity of fine light fand, which renders this bay almoft 
 ufelefs, the wind raifing the fand into clouds, with which the 
 country, fometimes for a mile or two round about, is, as it 
 were, perfectly overwhelmed. It is remarkable aifo for its fine 
 black marble pebbles, with which it fo much abounds, that 
 the ftreets of St. Ives are paved with them, and as they are very 
 fmooth and flippery, it is not only troublefome, but dangerous, 
 to walk about the town in rainy weather. The land between 
 St. Ives and Mount's Bay, is not above four miles over, and is 
 fo fituated that neither the Britifh nor St. George's Channel 
 is diftant above three miles; and from the hill the iflands of 
 Scilly maybe feen in a clear day, though they arediflant 
 above thirty miles, The inhabitants, before the harbour was 
 ruined by the fands, which the north-weft wind, to which it 
 is much expofed, heaps upon it, carried on a confiderable 
 trade in pilchards and Corniih flate, and had twenty or thirty 
 Ihips belonging to the harbour, the number of which is now 
 greatly reduced. 
 
 West Looe and East Looe, fo called from their fitua- 
 tion on each fide of the river Looe, or Low, are two hundred 
 
 and ' 
 
CORNWALL. *o$ 
 
 and thirty-two miles from London, and joined together by a 
 flone bridge of fifteen arches. They were both incorpo- 
 rated by Queen Elizabeth. Weft Looe is governed by twelve 
 burgefles, and Eaft Looe by nine burgefles, one of which is 
 annually chofen mayor, with a court of aldermen and re- 
 corder. — The manor of Eaft Looe is held by the corporation 
 of the dutchy of Cornwall, at the annual rent of twenty 
 fhillings. The church is a chapel of eafe to the parifh of St. 
 Martin's, in which the town fiands. The town has a wall 
 next to the fea, with a battery of four guns, and the inhabi- 
 tants carry on fome trade in pilchards, — Weft Looe, which is 
 alfo called Port Pigham, holds the manor of the dutchy, at 
 the rent of twenty-four fhillings a year. It had formerly a 
 chapel of eafe to the parifh of Talland, but that has fince been 
 converted into a town-hall, and the inhabitants go to Tal- 
 land to church. The harbour is commodious, though not 
 large, and the river is navigable for veflels of one hundred tons* 
 
 St. German's derives its name from St. GermanuSyzk\{hop 
 of Burgundy, who came over hither to fupprefs Pelagianifm. 
 It is two hundred and twenty-three miles from London,and is 
 governed by a mayor, who isalfo bailiff* of the borough, and 
 may make any houfe in it the prifon of the perfon he arrefts. 
 The mayor is affifted by inferior magistrates; but the place 
 is mean, confifting only of a few fiihermen's cottages, built 
 upon an irregular rock, in form of an amphitheatre, walhed by 
 the river Tide, which abounds with oyfters. It was, once a 
 bifhop's fee, and the ruins of the epifcopal palace are yet vi- 
 sible at Cuttenbeck, about a mile and a half diftant from the 
 town. The church is large, and not ill built, with an epif- 
 copal chair, and flails for the prebends. Here is a free-fchool 
 and a feffions-houfe* — The parifh in which the town ftands, 
 "which is alfo called St, German's, is the largeft in the county, 
 being twenty miles in compafs, and containing Seventeen vil- 
 lages. It is fuppofed to include more gentlemen's feats and 
 lordfhips than any other parifh in England. 
 
 St. Maws is two hundred and fixty-feven miles from 
 London, and has a caftle called St. Maws Caftle ; which, 
 with Pendennis Caftle, was built for the fecurity of Falmouth 
 haven. The caftle has a governor, a deputy, and two gun- 
 ners, with a platfgrm of guns; but the town is a wretched 
 
 Vol. U O hamlet 
 
ic6 * CORNWALL, 
 
 hamlet in the parifh of St, Juft, without either church, cha- 
 pel, or meeting-houfe. It confifts but of one ftreet, which 
 is built under a hill, and fronting the fea. The inhabitants 
 fubfift entirely by fiftiing, yet they fend tfcvo members to par- 
 liament. 
 
 St, Michael's is two hundred and forty-feven miles 
 from London, and is governed by a portreeve, who is annu- 
 ally chofen by a jury of the chief inhabitants, out of fix chief 
 tenants, who are called deputy lords of the manor, becaufe 
 they hold lands in the borough. It is now a mean hamlet to 
 the parities of Newland and St, Enidore ; and, though a 
 borough, has no market. It confift3 of but few houfes, in- 
 habited by poor people, who have neither trade nor privilege, 
 but that of fending two members to parliament. 
 
 £/. Michael's Mount, in the corner of Mount's Bay, is a 
 pretty high rock, only divided by the tide from the main land, 
 fo that it is land and ifland twice a day. At the bottom of 
 this meant, in digging for tin, there have been found fpear- 
 heads, battle-axes, and fwords of brafs, all wrapped up in 
 linen, The coaft is contra&ed here into a fort of iflhmus, 
 fo that it is fcarcely four miles between the channel and the 
 Severn fea. There have been large trees driven in by the 
 fea, between this mount and Penzance. At the foot of the 
 mount, is a noble and capacious pier or mole, where a great 
 number of (hips may be cleared and refitted. 
 
 PAt)STOwis twohundred and forty three miles from Lon- 
 don, and is a corporation, governed by a mayor and other offi- 
 cers, and is fituated on the river Camel, in the Briftol chan- 
 nel : the harbour is the b^ft in the north part of the county, 
 and capable of receiving many (hips of great burthen, but 
 it. cannot be entered without danger, except by a very fkilful 
 pilot, as there are rocks on the eaft fide, and banks of fand on 
 the weft. The principal trade of this place is inflate tiles 
 and in the herring fifliery. From this place to St. Ives is a 
 very pleafant and fruitful country, with hills, producing tin, 
 copper, and lead, which are all carried to the South Seas, 
 
 Penzance is fituated at the bottom of Mount's Bay, and 
 is two hundred and feventy-fix miles from London* It is 
 well built and populous, and has many fhips, in which a con- 
 
 fidelable 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 fiderable trade is carried on* This place was burnt by the 
 Spaniards in the year 1595, but foon rebuilt, and made one 
 of the coinage towns. It lies in the parifli of Madern, which 
 is noted for its reftorative fpring, it being faid to be very ef- 
 fectual in curing lamenefsj as alfo in removing divers chro- 
 nic difeafes. This part of the fliore abounds fo with tin, 
 lead, and copper ore, that the veins thereof appear on the ut- 
 moft extent of land at low water mark. 
 
 Callington is two hundred and fifteen miles from Lon* 
 don, and though it has no charter of incorporation, is go- 
 verned by a portreeve, who is annually chcfen at the 
 court -leet of the lord of the manor. It is fitwated on 
 the rjver Lynher, and is greatly fuperior to the majority of 
 Cornifli boroughs. It confifls of one good broad ftreet, in 
 which there is a chapel of eafe to the parifli of Southill, and 
 a market-houfe. Its chief trade is the woollen manufacture. 
 
 Grampont, or Grampound, is two hundred and forty- 
 three miles from London, and is a corporation, governed by a 
 mayor, eight aldermen, a recorder, and town-clerk. If has a 
 bridge over the river Fal, and confifts only of one ftreet; ic 
 has a chapel of eafe to the parifli church, which is at Creed, 
 about a quarter of a mile diftant from the town. The corpo- 
 ration is endowed with feveral confiderable privileges, parti- 
 cularly freedom from all tolls throughout the county, which 
 are held of the dutchy, at the annual rent of twelve guineas. 
 The inhabitants carry on. a confiderable m an u failure of gloves. 
 
 Camelford is two hundred and twenty-eight miles from 
 London, and has it name from the ford over the river Came/, ic 
 is faid to have been incorporated by King Charles the Firft, 
 and is governed by a mayor, eight aldermen, a recorder, and 
 town-clerk. The town is fmall, and the inhabitants few. 
 
 St. Columb Major is fo called from a church which was 
 built here, and dedicated to Sc. Columba. It is two hundred 
 and forty-nine miles from London, and is an inconhderabls 
 place; yet the juflices for the fouth divifion keep their fef- 
 fionsand hold a court here once in three weeks to determine 
 all fuits where the caufe of action does not exceed forty 
 (hillings* 
 
 O 2 BOSCASTLE, 
 
io8 CORNWALL. 
 
 Boscastle, originally called Bottereux - Castle, 
 from acaftle built here by the anceftors of the family of that 
 pame, is two hundred and thirty miles from London, and was 
 formerly a place of considerable note, but is now* a mean 
 place, though a market-town. The ruins of the caftle arc 
 ftill to be feen. 
 
 Market Jew, or, as it is fometimes called Marazion, 
 h two hundred and eighty-fix miles from London. It is an 
 inconfiderable place, ftands upon a bay called Mount's Bay, 
 {and has an harbour which is neither commodious nor fafe. 
 
 Mousehole is two hundred and ninety miles from London, 
 Js fituated on Mount's Bay, and is a harbour for fiming boats. 
 It was formerly called Port-Inis, or the Port of the llland, 
 fcecaufe there is a little ifland before it, called St. Clement's* 
 
 Newport, though it is included in Launcefton, muft be 
 jdiftinguiftied from it, as it ftill retains its privilege of fending 
 members to parliament. 
 
 Redruth is twp hundred and fixty miles from London, 
 and as ic lies in the midft of the mines, is made populous by 
 the refprt of the tinners. 
 
 Strattont is two hundred and twenty-two miles from 
 London, and is only remarkable for its orchards, gardens, 
 3nd garlick. 
 
 Tregony is two hundred and fifty fix miles from London, 
 and was incorporated by King James the Firft. Ic is governed 
 by a mayor, recorder, and burgeflfes. It ftands oh the river 
 Fal ? which is navigable to this place from Falmouth, The 
 £hief manufacture is ferge, 
 
 Wadebridge is twp hundred and forty-one miles from 
 London, and derives its name from a bridge over the Camel t 
 of which an account has already been given in the description 
 gf that river. 
 
 St. Austle lies on the north of Grampound, and is two 
 hundred and thirty-* fix miles from London. 
 
 S C I L L Y 
 
\ 
 
CORNWALL. 109 
 
 SCILLY ISLANDS. 
 
 The Islands of Scilly have always been deemed part of 
 Cornwall. They are about one hundred and forty (mall 
 iflands, that lie near fixty miles diftant from the Land's End, 
 and arefuppofed to have been feparated from it, and from each 
 other, by fome violent eruption of the fea, which is from 
 forty to fixty fathom deep ail aoout them. The largeft and 
 moft fruitful is nine miles in circumference; it is called 67. 
 Mary's^ and has a good harbour, wirh a caftle that was built 
 by Queen Elizabeth. Another of them is called The IJland 
 ef SciHy, from which the rocks took their name. Thefe, and 
 fome others, ftand high, and bear good corn, with fine pafture, 
 abounding alfo with rabbits, and cranes, herons, fwans, and 
 other water fowl. 
 
 As thefe iflands lie in the middle, between the Briftol 
 Channel oti the north, and the Englifh Channel on the fouth, 
 they have proved fatal to innumerable fhips, notwithftanding 
 light-houfes have been erected, and every other method taken 
 to prevent it. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &e. 
 
 Mount Edgcumbe, near Plymouth is the feat of Lord Edg- 
 cumbe. It is built in a pleafant romantic manner, and af- 
 fords an unbounded profpedt over the adjacent country, as 
 well as the fea. It is adorned with many fine paintings, and 
 the gardens are laid out in a very elegant manner. 
 
 About five miles from Saltafh, on the right fide of the 
 river Tamar, is the feat of Thomas Tiilie, Efq. It is a moft 
 beautiful place, with fine gardens on the banks of the river. 
 
 Anthony^ in the neighbourhood of Mount Edgcumbe, is a 
 feat belonging to the Carew family. Here is a noble fifh- 
 pond, fupplied with water from the fea. 
 
 Jrwenacky near Penryn, is the feat of the Kiilegrew fa- 
 mily ; Godolphin is the feat of the Eari of Godolphinj and 
 fiocannock) five miles from Liikeard, was the feat of the late 
 
 Lord 
 
tio CORNWALL, 
 
 Lord Mohun, but now of Thomas Pitt, Efq. brother to the 
 late celebrated Earl of Chatham, 
 
 St. Burlen* or St. Berlan^ is fo called from a religious lady 
 of that name, who is faid to have come over from Ireland in 
 thefixth century, along with fome of the difciplesof St. Pa- 
 trick, and who built a church here. In the reign of Athel- 
 San, King of the Weft Saxons, this old church was taken 
 down, and a collegiate church for a dean and canons erected 
 in its ftead, which remained till the diflolution of monafteries 
 in the reign of King Henry the Eighth. The church is ftill 
 remaining, but the convent was utterly demolifhed during the 
 civil war. In the church are feveral ancient monuments, 
 smongft which is one of curious workmanfhip, in the form 
 of a coffin, to the memory of Clarice, the wife of Geoffrey de 
 Bolleit, who enjoyed a manor in this parifh in the reign of 
 King Henry the Third. — In this parifli is Karn Bofcawen> a 
 ftone monument, confiding of one large flat ftone, oneendof 
 which refts upon the natural rock, and the other end on three 
 large ftones, placed one upon another, in order to raife a proper 
 fupport for the weight of the horizontal ftone. Between this 
 canopy and its fupporters, there is an opening feven feet wide 
 at the top, but doling gradually into an acute angle at the 
 bottom. The top ftone is too nicely fupported to be the work 
 of nature, and the opening underneath it is fuppofed to have 
 been defigned for the feat of fome chief prieft among the 
 Druids, from whence he might iflue his edi&s and decifions, 
 his predictions and admiflions to noviciates; and, indeed, the 
 mind can hardly frame toitfelf a fcene more awful and finking 
 than this, which confifts of vaft rocks on either fide, above 
 and below, fronting an immenfe ocean. 
 
 In this county there have been feveral rocking ftones, or 
 logan ftones, as they are called in Cornwall, fome of which 
 are fuppofed to be natural, and fame artificial. 
 
 Near the fouthermoft point of the Land's End, there is % 
 promontory, called Caftle Treryn 9 which confifts of three dif- 
 tinct piles of rock. On the weftern fide of the middle pile, 
 near the top, lies a very large ftone, fo evenly poifed, that any 
 band may rock it ; and yet the extremities of its bafe are at 
 fuch a diftance from each other, and fo well fecurcd, that it is 
 
 impoffible 
 
CORNWALL. ZZK 
 
 impoffibleany lever, or indeed any force, however applied in a 
 mechanical way, could remove ic from itsprefent fituation. 
 
 There is a very remarkable ftone of this kind on the ifland 
 of St. Agnes* in Scilly. It is fupported by a rock which is 
 ten feet fix inches high, forty- feven feet in circumference 
 round the middle, and touches the ground with no more than 
 half its bafe. The rocking {lone refts on one point only, and 
 is fo nicely poifed, that two or three men with a pole can move 
 it. It is eight feet fix inches high, and forty-feven feet in. 
 girt, and has a large bafon eleven feet in diameter, and three 
 feet deep at the top. 
 
 In the parifli of Sithny 9 near Helfton, flood a famous logan 
 ftone, commonly called Men Amber* It is eleven feet long, 
 twenty-four in girt, and was fo nicely poifed, that the leaft 
 force could move it; but in the timeof Oliver Cromwell it 
 was undermined and thrown down by order of the gover« 
 nor of Pendennis. 
 
 There are fome more of thefe ftones in the county. They 
 are with great reafon fuppofed to be Druid monuments, but 
 to what peculiar ufe they were applied is not certain. 
 
 In Cornwall, on almoft every plain, as well as on the tops 
 of hills, are ftill to be feen great numbers of thofe artificial 
 heaps of earth or ftone, which are at prefent called Barrows,, 
 and are monuments of the remoteft antiquity, and oftentimes 
 of the higheft dignity. They were originally intended for 
 the more iecure protection of the remains of the dead, though 
 afterwards they were raifed to anfwer other purpofes. Bar- 
 rows are found in moft countries ; but in Britain, and the 
 Britifh ifles, they are very numerous, occafioned by the prac- 
 tice of the Druids, who burnt, and then buried their dead, 
 The materials of which barrows confift, are either a multi- 
 tude of fmall or great ftones, earth alone, or ftones and earth 
 mixed together, and forming a little hill, which was called by 
 the Romans Tumulus. 
 
 An earthen barrow, of a wide circumference, and about fi'/e 
 feet high, fituated in a field at Trelowarren, not far from HeN 
 fton, was opened in July 1751% As the workmen had dug 
 
 half 
 
U2 C O R N W A L L. 
 
 half way to the bottom, they found a parcel of (tones fet in 
 fome order, which being removed, a cavity was difcovered in 
 the middle of the barrow, about two feet in diameter, and of 
 equal height. It was furrounded and covered with ftones, 
 and inclofed human bones of all forts, intermixed with wood 
 afhes. At the diftance of a few feet from this central cavity, 
 there were found two urns, one on each fide, with their mouths 
 turned downwards, and inclofing fmall bones and aflies ; and 
 among the earth of the barrow were found three thin pieces 
 of brafs, fuppofed to have been pieces of a f word, or fome 
 other inftrument, which, after having been put upon the fu- 
 neral pile and broke, was thrown into the barrow, among the 
 earth and other materials that were heaped together. 
 
 St. Juji and Morva are two inconsiderable villages, but 
 contain many Roman and Britifli antiquities* 
 
 Between Falmouth and Heljlon is a Druidical monument, 
 confiding of one vaft oval pebble, placed on the points of 
 two natural rocks, fo that a man might creep under the in- 
 cumbent rock, and between its two fupporters, through a paf- 
 fage about three feet wide, and as many high. The longeft 
 diameter of the incumbent flone, which points due north and 
 fouth, is thirty-three feet, the circumference is ninety-feven 
 feet, and fixty feet crofs the middle, and it is thought to be 
 feven hundred and fifty tons weight at leaft. On the top, 
 the whole furface is wrought into bafons, and refembles 
 an imperfect or mutilated honey<comb. Moftof thefe bafons 
 difcbarge their contents into two principal bafons, one at the 
 fouth, and the other at the north end of the rock. 
 
 There are two other Tol-men of the fame ftru&ure, though 
 riot quite fo large, in the Scilly Iflands, one on St. Mary* 
 IJlandS) on the bottom of Salakee Downs, and the other in the 
 little i flan d of Northwethel \ and each is lituated on the de- 
 cline of a hill, near a large pile of rocks. 
 
 Near Madern^ north of Penzance, there are three ftones 
 ftanding eredt on a triangular plan. One of them is thin and 
 flat, and fixed on the ground on its edge $ in the middle of it 
 is a large hole about fourteen inches diameter, whence it is 
 galled Men an Tol 7 which in the Cprnife language lignifies 
 
 the 
 
CORNWALL. I13 
 
 the holed {tone. Each of the other two ftones is a rude pil- 
 lar about four feet high, and near one of them is a ftone lying 
 like a cufhion or pillar, as if to kneel upon. To what parti- 
 cular rite or fuperftition this monument was appropriated is 
 uncertain, but the country people in its neighbourhood, even 
 at this day, creep through the holed ftone for pains in their 
 backs and limbs ; young children are drawn through to cure 
 them of the rickets ; and it ftrves alfo as an oracular monu- 
 ment, to inform them of feme material incident of love or 
 fortune. 
 
 Of the fame kind there are many other ftones, in different 
 partsof the county ; and here are many rocksof fuch grandeur, 
 remarkable fhape, and furprifing pofition,as leave no room to 
 doubt but that they muft be deities of the Druids, a people 
 much addicted to the fuperftition of worfhipping rocks. 
 
 Near the village of St. C/eere 9 is a pile of rocks, placed one 
 over another, and called Wringcheefe^ from the refemblance of 
 fome of them to large cheefes prefied by the fuperincumbent 
 weight. This pile, which attracts the admiration of all tra- 
 vellers, is thirty-two feet high. The ftones, towards the top, 
 by being many times larger than thofe in the middle, or nearer 
 the foundation, project fo far over the middle part, that it has 
 been a matter of wonder how fuch an ill-conftru£led pile 
 could fubfift for many ages, the ftone being of fo expofed a 
 fituation. Some have judged this an artificial ftrufture, 
 though moft writers are of opinion it is a natural one. The 
 top ftone is faid to have been formerly a logan or rocking 
 ftone, which, when it was entire, might be eafily moved with 
 a pole, but now great part of that weight, which kept one 
 end of it in an equipoife with the other, is taken away, whence 
 it becomes immoveable. On the top are two irregular ba- 
 fons, but part of one of them is broke off. This ftrudture is 
 alfo judged to have been one of the rock deities of the Druids* 
 
 Among the moft ancient of Britiftimonumentsare thecircles 
 of ert£t ftones, of which there are many in Cornwall, and 
 which the beft antiquarians judge to have been Druid temples. 
 That thefe temples were eredted by the Druids, before the 
 Romans came into this ifland, appears evident, from many of 
 them being croffed and mangled by the Roman ways $ for 
 had they been erected by the Romans themftlves^ that people 
 
 Vol. I. f WO uld 
 
ii4 CORNWALL. 
 
 would never have disfigured their own work, Befides, they 
 mull have been prior to the Romans, fince the Druids, in the 
 time of the Romans, would never be fuffered to obftruct the 
 highways of their lords and matters. And this muft naturally 
 lead to another concluflon equally evident, which is, that as 
 they could not be Roman works, becaufe prior to the Roman 
 ways, foneither could they have been of Danifli or Saxon con- 
 #ru£tion, and therefore can juftly be afcribed to none but the 
 Druids. 
 
 At Kerris, in the parifh of Paul, not far from Penzance, 
 there is an oval inclofure, called Roundago^VjWich is fifty-two 
 paces from north to fouth, and thirty-tour from eaft to weft. 
 At thefouthern extremity {rands four rude pillars, about eight 
 feet high, at the foot of which lie fome large ftones, which are 
 fuppofed to have formerly refted on thofe pillars* 
 
 On a reck adjoining to a place called Tbt Giant's Cajlle, in 
 the ifland of St. Mary* in Scilly, is an area of a circular 
 figure, which is one hundred and feventy-two feet from north 
 to fcuth, and one hundred and thirty-eight from eaft to weft. 
 On the edges of the rock are nine vaft ftones ftill remaining, 
 planted in a circular line ; feveral others perfected rhe round, 
 but from time to time have been removed. This was a great 
 Work of its kind : the floor is of one rock $ the ftones round 
 the edges are of an extraordinary fize. 
 
 There is in the ifland of Trefcaw, in Scilly, a circle of 
 $ones, together with an altar/ The altar confifts cf one 
 rude ftone, nineteen feet long, and fhelving on the top ; round 
 the bottom there is an hollow circular trench thirty-fix feet in 
 ciameter, and the brim of the trench is edged with a line of 
 xudeand unequal ftones. 
 
 Another of thefe circles is on an high hill called Earn 
 MenelcZ) in the wilds of Weldron, not far from Penry n. The 
 altar confifts of four large thin ftones, placed one over ano- 
 ther; the upper ftone is circular, and the diameter nineteen 
 feet ; it has a circular trench at the bottom > the diameter of 
 Which is thirty-five feet and an half. 
 
 But 
 
CORNWALL. us 
 
 But all thefe monuments of the circular kind were not ap- 
 propriated to the purpofes of religion ; fome appear to have 
 been intended for aflemblies in which ele£tions were held ; 
 others for theatres for fports, plays, and entertainments : and 
 where thefe ftone inclofures are femi-circular, and diftin- 
 guiflied by feats and benches of the fame materials, there is 
 no doubt but they were defigned for the exhibition of plays. 
 There are feveral theatres of this kind in different parts of 
 Britain ; but though this form is beft adapted for the inftruc- 
 tion and information of the audience, yet as they cannot be 
 fuppofed, in thofe illiterate times, to have confulted the de- 
 light and inftruftion of the ear fo much as the pleafure and 
 entertainment of the eye, it is not fo comrfionly met with 
 among the remains of antiquity as the amphitheatrical form, 
 which being more capacious, had generally the preference of 
 the former. In thefe amphitheatres of ftone, not broken as 
 the circles of eredl ftones, the Britons ufually aflembled to 
 hear plays adted, and to fee fports and games, Of thefe cir- 
 cles there are a great number in Cornwall, where they are 
 called plananguar^y which fignifiesa plain of fport and paf- 
 time. The benches round were generally of turf, but there 
 are fome in Cornwall, the benches of which are of ftone. 
 The moft remarkable monument of this kind is near the 
 church of St, 'Juft^ north-weft of Penzance, not far from the 
 Land's End. By the remains if feems to have been a work 
 of more than ufual labour and correctnefs. It was an exadi 
 circle of one hundred and twenty-fix feet diameter ; the per- 
 pendicular height of the bank from the area within, is now 
 feven feet, but the height from the bottom of the ditch with- 
 out, ten feet. The feat confifts of fix fteps, fourteen inches 
 wide, and a foot high, with one on the top of all, where the 
 rampart is about feven feet wide, in thefe cirques were alfo» 
 performed all their athletic exercifes, for which the Cornifli 
 Britons are iiill remarkable; and when any fingle combat was 
 to be fought on foot, no places fo proper as one of thefe cir- 
 cles. The cirques whether open or inclofed, were alfo often 
 fepulchral ; for in, or adjoining to the edge of thefe circular 
 monuments, are fome times found ftone chefts and cromlechs, 
 and at other times fepulchral urns or barrows, all evident 
 fignsof burial, doubtlefs of perfons the moft illuftrious of 
 their country for knowledge, virtue, or power ; for it muftnot 
 be fuppofed that thefe circies were ever the ordinary common 
 
 P 2 places 
 
Ii6 CORNWALL. 
 
 places of burial, it being very feldorn that more than one 
 (tone cavitj, barrow, or cromlech, was found in or near them, 
 and fcarce more than two, or very few urns. 
 
 Among the natural curiofities of this county, a cove, or 
 cave, called Kynan's Cove> is not the leaft confiderable. It is 
 fituated one mile and a half north-weft of the Lizard Point. 
 The way down to it from the hill is extremely rugged and 
 narrow, being only a fingJetraclc worn by the horfes that carry 
 fend. The fand of the cove, which is entered by this path, 
 is partly of a light cojour, and partly glittering; it is dif- 
 perfed in many winding paffages among rocks and vaft mafles 
 of the cliff, which lead to different grots of various fize and 
 figure: thefe rocks are wafhed too often by the tides to pro- 
 duce any cavernous plants ; but at the foot of the rock many 
 bafons or baths of water, tranfparent ?s chryftal, are fprmed 
 in the eddy of the waves. The crevices in the rocks, which 
 are feldorn more than the twentieth of an inch wide, are full 
 of a fmooth un£tious fubftance, which greatly refembles bees- 
 wax, both to the fight and touch ; and between the rocks on 
 the eafternfide, there are a few fmall veins of the white and 
 red marble clay, which, from its refemblance to tallow, which 
 in Greek is called Jlear 7 has obtained the name of /leather 
 
 There are many fortifications in this county, apparently of 
 great antiquity, but of which it is difficult to afcertain the age. 
 At Cajlle Treryri) near the fouth-weft part of the Land's End, 
 there are fome remains of an ancient fortification. The cape 
 Called Tolpedn-Penwitby about a mile and a half to the weft' of 
 Cattle Treryn, is divided from the main land by a ftone wail ; 
 and the caftles of Karnnijek and Hofcajett % in the parifh of St. 
 Juft, with many others on the fea coaft, are in like manner 
 feparated from the main land. 
 
 On the top of Bartine Hill 7 in the parifh of St. Juft, is a 
 circular mound of earth, with little or no ditch, never of 
 great ftrength, and perhaps only traced out, begun and never 
 fir.ifhed. Within this inclofuie was funk a well, now filled 
 up with ftones; and the only thing remarkable is, that near 
 the centre of the caftle arc three circles, edged with ftones 
 pitched on the end, and contiguous to each other. One of 
 Shem is nine yards in diameter, and the oiher feven. 
 
 Caerbran 
 
CORNWALL, 117 
 
 Caerbran^ in the parifh of Sancred, is another circular for- 
 tification, on the top of a high hill, confifting of a deep 
 ditch, fifteen feet wide, edged with (tone ; this is furrounded 
 by a vallum of earth fifteen feet high ; within this vallum is a 
 wide ditch, about forty-five feet wide ; and the top of the hill 
 is furrounded by a ftone wall, which feems to have been of 
 confiderable ftrength. The diameter of the whole is ninety 
 paces; and in the centre is a fmall circle.— There are many 
 others of the like kind ftill to be feen in Cornwall ; fome of 
 which are regularly built, and walled round. Thefe hill caf* 
 ties in this county are fuppofed to be Danifh. 
 
 At the eaft end of Karnbre Hill ftands a ruinous building, 
 which, from its fituation, is called Karnbre Gajlle^ and is 
 built upon a very irregular ledge of vaft rocks. It is fuppofed 
 to have been eredied by the ancient Britons. On the weft 
 fide of it is a circular fortification, called The Old Cajlle* 
 which, from fome circumftances obfervable in the building, 
 is fuppofed to have been erecled by the fame people, as early 
 as the time of the Druids. —There are the remains of another 
 caftleof the fame kind in the parifh of Sancred^ called Gaer- 
 guidn 3 whlch is alfo judged to have been built by the ancient 
 Britons. 
 
 Trematon Cajlle, in the parifh of St. Stephen's, near Saltafh, 
 was the head of a barony of the ancient Dukes of Cornwall; 
 and though it was built before the Norman invafion, is yec 
 the moll entire ancient caftle with a keep in this county. 
 The wall of the baflecourt is ftill (landing, and is ditched 
 without, and pierced in feveral places with certain loop holes. 
 There is no tower projefhng from this wall but the gateway, 
 which feems more modern than the reft of the building. Ac 
 one end of this court is an artificial hill, at the top of which 
 is the keep, of an oval figure. The outer wall is ftill ftand- 
 ing, and is ten feet thick. 
 
 Rejlormel Caftle> about a mile north of Loftwithiel, was 
 tme of the principal houfes of the ancient iiarls of Cornwall. 
 Jt ftands upon a rock; the keep is very magnificent ; the 
 outer wall or rampart is an exad circle, one hundred and two 
 feet diameter on the in fide, and ten feet wide at the top ; and 
 from the floor of the ground rooms to the top of the parapet 
 
 is 
 
n8 CORNWALL. 
 
 is twenty-feven feet fix inches. It appears from the ruins to 
 have been of a great extent ; and it had a park round it, well 
 wooded, and fuitable to the quality of the ancient owners. 
 
 About four miles eaft of Padftow, is the ancient village of 
 Gudelion, where there is a fine church, which in the reign of 
 King Edward the Third was collegiate. The church is a 
 neat Gothic ftru&ure, and Hands in the centre of a large 
 burying ground, 
 
 * 
 
 In this county there are feveral fprings, fuppofed to have 
 medicinal virtues, that are not known to be tin&ured with any 
 mineral. At a village called Madern % fituated under the hills 
 a little to the northward of Penzance, there is a well which is 
 faid to cure pains and ftiffnefs in the limbs, by being ufed as a 
 bath. Superftitious perfons alfo refort to this well at cer- 
 tain times of the year, moon, and day, on a lefs juftifiable er- 
 rand : they drop pebbles or pins into the water, or (hake the 
 ground about, and from the turns which thefe fmall bodies 
 make in finking, or the bubbles that rife in the water, they de- 
 termine by certain rules what in general will be their future 
 fortune, or what will be the iJTue of an amour or other under- 
 taking in which they may happen to be engaged. 
 
 In the ifland of Sancred, among the hills to the weft of Pen- 
 zance, there is another well that has been much celebrated for 
 curing wounds and fores, and removing cutaneous eruptions. 
 As a memorial of its virtue, a chapel was long lince built 
 near it, and dedicated to St, Euinus. The ruins of it, con- 
 fiding of much carved ftone, ftill remain, and fliew that it 
 was of confiderable note. 
 
 Both the above fprings rife in a grey moor-ftone gravel, 
 called in the Cornifli grouan y and are very cold and limpid, 
 but not mineral. 
 
 r There is a third well of the fame kind, called Holy Well^ 
 about a mile and a half to the north weft of St. Cuthbert's 
 Church. St. Cuthbert's Church is in a frnall fandy bay on 
 the coaft, and not far from St. Columb. In this bay there are 
 feveral caves, which have been wrought into the cliff by the 
 north fea \ and in one of thefe caves, at the north-eaft point 
 
 of 
 
CORNWALL; 
 
 119 
 
 of the bay, at the foot of a high cliff, is this well. There 
 are fome rude fteps cut into the rock, which lead from the en- 
 trance, which is very low, to the height of many feet perpen- 
 dicular ; the water is then feen diftilling from every part of 
 the roof, and being colle&ed in a little bafon, it flows from 
 thence in a frnall ftream not bigger than a reed. There are 
 feveral fmall protuberances of the alabafter kind hanging from 
 the roof 5 and the floor of the rock is covered with the fame 
 fubftance; and there is no production of the alabafter kind 
 in any other part of the county. The water of this well 
 is greatly commended in fluxes, and other diforders of the 
 bowels ; but upon trying the common experiments upon it, 
 it does not appear to contain either fteel, allum, acid, falts, 
 fulphur, or any other mineral principle. 
 
 The fports of Cornwall are wreftling and hurling. Thefe 
 wreftlingsand hurlings are always praftifed on holidays, par- 
 ticularly on the Monday and Tuefday after the Sunday 
 which is kept every year in memory of the dedication of the 
 parochial church. 
 
 The tinners have fome holidays peculiar to themfelves, par- 
 ticularly the Thurfday one clear week before Chriftmas day, 
 which they call Jeu-lVhyden % or White Thurfday , in comme- 
 moration of black tin being firft melted into white tin in thefe 
 parts; for it was anciently the cuftom to export the tin ore 
 unmelted. The tinners alio keep the fifth of March, in ho- 
 nour of St. Piran, a faint who is faid to have given their an- 
 ceftors fome very profitable informations relating to the tin 
 manufacture. The tinners are indeed in many refpecls a 
 community diftincT: from the other inhabitants of this county* 
 They have an officer called the JLord- Warden, who is ap- 
 pointed to adminifter juftice among them, with an appeal to 
 the Duke of Cornwall, in council, or to the Crown. The 
 Lord-Warden appoints a Vice- Warden to decermine all ftan- 
 nary difputes every month, and he conftitutes four ftewards, 
 each for a particular diftricl:, who hold courts every three 
 weeks, and decide by juries of lix, with an appeal to the Vice- 
 Warden, from him to the Lord- Warden, and finally to the 
 Crown* They have alfo a parliament, coofiiting of twenty- 
 four gentlemen tinners, fix to be cnofen for each of the ftan- 
 nary divifions, by the mayor and council of the towns of fuch 
 
 divifion 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 diviflon refpe&ively. The towns are Launcefton, Loft- 
 withiel, Truro, and Helftcn. The twenty-four perfons thus 
 chofen are called Stannators, and chufe their fpeaker, who is 
 approved by the Lord-Warden. Whatever is en a died by the 
 body of the tinners, with the fubfequent aflentof the Crown, 
 is commonly underftood to have all the authority, with re- 
 flect to tin affairs, of an a£i of the whole legiflature. 
 
 The mod extraordinary foffils in this county are trees of 
 various kinds and iizes, that are found at a confiderable depth 
 below the furface of the earth. In 1740, feveral pieces of 
 oak, and one entire flock, about ten feet long, without 
 branches, were found about four feet below the furface of a 
 drained marfh, on the banks of the river Heyl, in Penwith. — 
 In 1750, another oak, about twenty feet long and twelve 
 inches diameter, was found at the depth of thirty feet, by a 
 man who was digging for tin near the Land's End. The 
 branches of this tree were full of leaves, the impreffion of 
 which was left in the bed where it was found, which was the 
 fame fheliy fand with that of the adjacent beach. — Near this 
 tree was found a fkeletcn of an animal, iuppofed to be a deer; 
 the fkeleton was entire, but the horns were imperfect. The 
 largeft piece was about two feet and a half long, and about 
 as thick as a man's wrift.— In 1753, ieveral pieces of horn?, 
 cither of the elk or deer, were found in the fame place, at the 
 depth of twenty feet. — Another fort of foffil trees have been 
 discovered in lakes, bogs, and harbours, in whole groves to* 
 gether, ftanding perpendicularly as they grew. — There was a 
 tradition in Cornwall, that a Jarge tradt of ground, on the 
 edge of Mount's Bay, was a wood ; and on January 10, 
 1757* after the fands had been drawn off the fhore by a vio- 
 lent fea, the remains of the wood appeared ; feveral trees, 
 with their roocs entire, were difcovered, though in a horizon- 
 tal pofture; there were oaks, willows, and hazels. The 
 place where thefe trees were found, was three hundred yards 
 below full fea-mark, and the water was about twelve feet deep 
 upon them when the tide was in. 
 
 The weftern parts of this county were on the 15th of 
 July, 1757, fhaken by an earthquake, which was violent, 
 though it did no damage to the flighteft buildings^ nor evea 
 to the mines. 
 
 The 
 
C ORNWALL. 
 
 The mofr extraordinary phenomenon that ever appeared 
 in the Tea on this coaft, was on the ift of November, 1755* 
 about two in the afternoon, the day on which Lifbon was 
 deftrqyed by an earthquake: There was juft then a dead 
 calm, which left the vanes pointing to the north eaft ; the 
 mercury in the barometer was higher th;:n it had been known 
 for three years before, and the mercury in Farenheit's ther- 
 mometer flood at 54. The fea at St, Michael's Mount, after 
 it had ebbed about half an hour, fuddenly rofe fix feet, and 
 again retired in about ten minutes : This flux and reflux 
 continued every ten minutes for two hours and an half. It 
 came in with great rapidity from the fouth-eafr, and ebbed 
 away to the weftward, whirling the boats that lay at the head 
 of the pier fome one way and feme another* The firfr. and 
 fecond flux and reflux were not lb violent as the third and 
 fourth* for in thefe, and thofe that immediately followed, 
 the fea was as rapid as a mill-ifcone defcending to an 
 underfoot wheel. After about two hours, the undulations 
 became gradually fainter, and ceafed about the time of low 
 water. 
 
 Cornwall was anciently inhabited by thofe Britons, whom 
 Solinus called Dunmonii^ and Ptolemy Damonii y or Danmonii} 
 the name Dunmonii^ or Danmonii^ is by fome fuppofed to be 
 derived from Moina % a name fignifying a hill of mines, given 
 by the Britons to the tin mines, with which this county 
 abounds ; others have fuppofed the Roman name to be derived 
 from Danmonithj a term by which the Britons diftinguifhed 
 the way of living in this county, where the noufes are built 
 under the hills. 
 
 The inhabitants of Cornwall have been diftinguifhed from 
 thofe of other counties, by fome peculiarities, and they were 
 till about two centuries ago, particularly diftinguifhed by 
 their language, a dialect of which, before the Saxon invaiion, 
 was common to all Britain ; fo different from the Welch and 
 Armoric, which are two other dialects of the fame language, 
 that thofe who fpeak one of thefe dialects, cannot converfe with 
 thofe who fpeak another ; the Cornifh is lefs guttural, and 
 therefore fuppofed to be more pleafing than the Weifh. There 
 was nothing printed in the Cornifh language till i-Jhuyd, the 
 antiquary, publifhed his Cornifh Grammar $ but there are 
 
 Vol. I. two 
 
122 CORNWALL. 
 
 two manuscripts in the Bodleian Library, which contain fe- 
 veral interludes, or as the author calls them, ordinalie ; the 
 fubje&of the firft is the creation of the world ; of thefecond, 
 the paffion of our Lord Jefus ; of the third, the refurre&ion ; 
 and of the fourth, the deluge. There is alfo a Cornifli voca- 
 bulary in the Cotton Library, which is printed by Mr. Bor- 
 lafe, at the end of the Antiquities of Cornwall, This lan- 
 guage was fo generally fpoken in Cornwall, till the time of 
 Henry the Eighth, that Dr. John Moreman, who was vicar 
 of Menhenniot, or Menhinuick, near Launcefton, in that 
 reign, was the firft who taught his parifhioners the Lord's 
 prayer, creed, and commandments in Englilh, which now 
 univerfally prevails ; fo that the Cornifh language is not 
 fpoken in converfation in any part of the county. 
 
 There have been many ancient coins found in Cornwall, 
 particularly a confiderable number of pure gold, were dug up 
 in the month of June, 1749, in Karnbre Hill, near Redruth ; 
 fome were worn and very much fmoothed, not by age, or 
 lying in the earth, but by ufe, they having no allay to harden 
 and fecure them from wearing. There were no letters difco- 
 verable on any of them ; fome were plain or flat, fome a little 
 concave on one fide, and convex oil the other, and the largeft 
 weighed no more than four pennyweights fourteen grains. 
 From the reverfe of thefe coins, which was generally marked 
 with the impreffion of a horfe, fome imagined ihatthey were 
 Phenician, becaufe a few colonies of that people were faid to 
 have chofen a horfe for their fymbol. The place where 
 the coins were found feemed to confirm this opinion, 
 becaufe Cornwall, fince the firft appearance of Britain in hif- 
 tory, was celebrated for its tin, which the Pheniciahs, from 
 their fuperior fkill in navigation, for many years engroifed to 
 themfelves ; but there are coins produced by antiquaries, 
 which have been found in Britain, which are infcribed with 
 Britifh names, and are with the greateft probability believed to 
 have been the coins of Princes cotemporary even with Julius 
 Caefar, the reverfe of which have a figure of a horfe. It is 
 moreover obferved, that the coins found at Karnbre are too 
 rude, and the defigns too mean, to have been Phenician, Ro- 
 man, or Grecian 5 that coins of all the different forts found 
 at Karnbre, have been difcovered in feveral places in Britain, 
 and in no other country, and that thofe coins which are not 
 
 infcribed, 
 
CORNWALL. 
 
 infcribed, are moft probably older than coins of the fame na* 
 tion which are infcribed. From all thefe circumftances it is 
 reafonably concluded, that the coins found at Karnbre are 
 originally Britifli, and older than the Roman invafion of this 
 ifland. — In the month of July, 1749, the quantity of one pint 
 of Roman copper coins, was dug up at the foot of Karnbre 
 Hill ; and a few years before, about a quart of the fame coin 
 was found near the fame place. 
 
 Roman coins have been found in and near the ancient mines 
 of this county, which muft have been depofited either by the 
 Roman miners, or by officers appointed by that nation to 
 fuperintend and guard mines, which poffibly the Romans 
 might have worked by the natives. 
 
 At Treryn, near the Land's End, was found a brafs pot full 
 of Roman money ; and in a tenement called Condora^ on 
 Helford Haven, not far from Helftone, in 1735, twenty-four 
 gallons of the Roman brafs money were dug up, all which 
 coins were of the age of the Emperor Conftantine and his 
 family, and had either the heads of thofe Emperors, or were 
 of the cities of Rome or Conftantinoplc — On the other fide 
 of Helford Haven, oppofite to Condora, were found forty 
 Roman coins. 
 
 At Mopas, near Truro, not many years ago, twenty 
 pounds weight of Roman brafs coins were dug up; and at 
 Tywardrethy near Fowey, many Roman coins have been 
 found. 
 
 In the year 1733, upon opening an ancient barrow in the 
 tenement of Chikarn and the parifh of St. was difcovered 
 a great number of urns, furrounding a large fquare ftone 
 cheft, in which alfo was an urn finely carved, and full of hu- 
 man bones- The number of urns furrounding the central 
 and principal one, is faid to be about fifty ; they all contained 
 fome bones and aflies, and were carefully placed fide by fide. 
 
 In the year 1714, a fine Roman urn, with a cover to it, 
 was difcovered in a hill near Karnbre ; it contained fome 
 aflies and a coin, the bignefs of a crown piece, with an in- 
 fcription, intimating it to be a medal of Auguftus Caefar. 
 
 2 Near 
 
124 G O R N W A L L. 
 
 Near the manfion-houfe of Kerris y in the parifli of St, 
 Paul, a vault, eight feet long and fix feet high, was difcovered 
 in the year 1723 ; the floor was paved with {tone, and the 
 roof arched with the fame materials; it contained a beautiful 
 plain urn, of the fineft red clay, full of earth, with which 
 was intermixed a confiderable number of brafs coins. 
 
 Tn the year 1700, fome tinners having opened a barrow at 
 Golvadneky north of Helfton, difcovered a vault with a fine 
 chequered brick pavement, in which was contained an urn 
 full of afhes, feveral Roman brafs coins, and a fmall inftru- 
 ment of brafs fet in ivory, which is fuppofed to have been 
 ufed by the Roman ladies in drefling their hair. 
 
 About a furlong from Golvadnek, on a hill called Karn~ 
 MeneleZ) are two barrows, in which it is faid Roman coins 
 and urns have been found ; and in the year 1600, a large gilt 
 urn, graved with letters, was found in a large ftene chelt near 
 Tywardretb* 
 
 Three Roman paterae of fine moor-ftone, turned and po- 
 lifhed, have been found not many years ago in this county. 
 One was difcovered in an old hedge, at a place called Ludgvan^ 
 and is fuppofed to be a facrifical patera for receiving the 
 blood of the victim, and conveying it as an offering to the 
 altar. The other two paterae were found in the tenement of 
 Lefwyn^ in St. Juft. They are fuppofed to be that kind of 
 paterae from which the libation of wine was poured out, 
 either upon the altar or between the horns of the victim.—- 
 About an hundred yards from thefe two paterae, was alfo 
 found a large urn. 
 
 There have been feveral remarkable inftances of longevity 
 in this county, particularly a woman of Githian, near St. 
 Ives Bay, who died in the year 1676, aged one hundred and 
 fixty-four years, and till a fhort time before her death en- 
 joyed good health and a found memory; and the Reverend 
 Mr, Cole, Minifter of Landawidnek, near the Lizard Point, 
 who died in the year 1683, a § ec * mo f e tnan one hundred and 
 twenty years. 
 
 Pendennist fituated at the mouth of Falmouth Haven, is a 
 peninfula pf a mile and an half in compafs, on which King 
 
 Henry 
 
CORNWALL. 125 
 
 Henry the Eighth ere&ed a caftle, oppofite to that of St. 
 Maws, which he alfo built. It was fortified by Queen Eli- 
 zabeth, and ferved then for the governor's houfe. It is one 
 of the largeft caftles in the kingdom, and is built upon a high 
 rock. It held out for King Charles the Firft in the civil 
 wars, till the. garrifon was almoft deftroyed, and then was 
 forced to furrender to the Parliament forces under Colonel 
 Fortefcue. It is ftronger by land than St. Maws, being re- 
 gularly fortified, and having good outworks. 
 
 This county fends no lefs than forty-four members to par- 
 liament, viz. two knights of the (hire for the county, and two 
 burgefles for each of the following boroughs : Bodmin, Bof- 
 finey, Camelford, Eaft Loo, Weft Loo, Fowey, St. Ger- 
 man's, Grampound, Helfton, St. Ives, Callington, Laun- 
 cefton, Lifkeard, Loftwithiel, St. Maws, St. Michael, New- 
 port, Penryn, Saltaih, Tregony, and Truro. 
 
 CUMBERLAND. 
 
CUMBERLAND. 
 
 THIS county is bounded by the Irifli fea on the weft, by 
 part of Scotland on the north, by Northumberland, 
 Durham, and Weftmoreland on the eaft, and by Lancafhire 
 and the Irifli fea on the fouth. It is about fifty-five miles 
 from north to fouth, thirty-eight miles from eaft to weft, and 
 one hundred and fixty-eight miles in circumference. 
 
 The air of this county, though cold, is Jefs piercing than 
 might be expe&ed from its fituation, being (heltered by lofty 
 mountains on the north. The foil is in general fruitful, the 
 plains producing corn in great abundance, and the mountains 
 yielding pafture for numerous flocks of fheep, with which they 
 are perpetually covered. The face of the country is delightfully 
 varied by lofty hills, vallies, and water, but the profpeft would 
 be ftill more agreeable, if it was not deficient in wood, many 
 plantations of which have been made, but without fufficient 
 fuccefs to encourage the pradlice. 
 
 The river Derwent produces falmon in great plenty, and 
 the Eden Char, a fmali fifh of the trout kind, which is not 
 found in any waters of this ifland except the Eden and Wi- 
 nandermere, a lake in Weftmoreland.— At the mouth of 
 the river Irt, on the fea coaft, near Ravenglas, are found pearl 
 mufcles j for the fifhing of which, fome perfons obtained a 
 patent not many years ago; but it does not appear that this 
 undertaking has yet produced any confiderable advantage. 
 
 Several mountains in this county contain metals and mine- 
 rals ; and in the foufch part of it, which is called Copelund % 
 the mountains abound with rich veins of copper, as they do 
 alfo in Derwent Fells, particularly at Newland, a village near 
 Kefwick, where, it is faid, there was once found a mixture of 
 gold and filver. In this county there are alfo mines of coals, 
 lead, lapis calaminaris, and black lead, a mineral found no 
 where elfe, called by the inhabitants wadd. The wadd mines 
 lie chiefly in and about Derwent Fells, where this mineral 
 may be dug up in any quantity. 
 
 Cumberland 
 
CUMBERLAND. 
 
 Cumberland abounds with rivers and large bodies of water, 
 which the inhabitants call meres. Of the rivers, the Denvent 
 is the chief : it rifes in Borrodale, a large valley fouth of Kef- 
 wick, and running along the hills called Dervvent Fells, forms 
 a large lake in which are three fmall iflands, and at the north 
 fide of which ftands the town of Kefwick ; thence the Der- 
 went runs through the middle of the county, and pafliog by 
 Cockermouth, falls into the Irifli fea, near a fmall market- 
 town called Workington*- — The Eden, another confiderable 
 river in this county, rifes at Mervel Hill, near Afkrig, in 
 Yorkfhire, and running north-weft, crofs the counties of 
 Weftmoreland and Cumberland upwards of thirty miles, and 
 being joined by feveral other rivers, runs directly weft 5 and 
 paffing by Carlifle, falls into that part of the Irifli fea, called 
 Solway Frith. — Befides the two rivers already mentioned, 
 here are alfo the Eln, the Efk, the Leven, the Irking, the 
 South Tyne, and feveral other lefs confiderable rivers and 
 brooks, which fupply the inhabitants with plenty of fifh. 
 
 This county is divided into five principal parts called 
 wards, which is probably a diftrict equivalent to the hun- 
 dreds and wapentakes of other counties, though no expla- 
 nation of the word, as a divilion of a county is to be found. 
 The county contains one city and eleven market-towns* It 
 lies in the province of York, and diocefe of Chefter and Car- 
 lifle. 
 
 C I T Y. 
 
 The city of CARLISLE, which is three hundred and one 
 miles from London, is of great antiquity, and is faid to have 
 been founded byLuil,a petty King of the county, long before 
 the Romans came, who had a ftation here ; but after their de- 
 parture it was ruined by the Caledonians, &c. In the year 
 680,-Egfrid, King of Northumberland, rebuilt and walled it 
 round. It was again fo ftiattered by the Danes and Norwe- 
 gians, in the eighth and ninth centuries, that it lay in ruins 
 for abouttwo hundred years, tillKing Wiiiiam the Second or- 
 dered the wall and caftle to be repaired. King Henry the Firft 
 augmented its fortifications, and made it the fee of a bifhop* 
 It was often befieged by the Scots, who took it in the reign of 
 King Stephen, and again in the reign of King John 5 but 
 
 their 
 
128 CUMBERLAND. 
 
 their fucceflbrs, Henry the Second and Henry the Third, re- 
 covered it. Its walls and caftles were well repaired by 
 Richard the Third, and Henry the Eighth built, a citadel. 
 It was taken by the rebels in 1745. and retaken foon after by 
 his Royal Highnefs the Duke of Cumberland. 
 
 This city is fituated between the conflux of three fine ri- 
 vers abounding with fifh, viz. the Eden on the north, over 
 which it has a bridge that is but fix miles from Scot- 
 land ; the Petteril on the eaft ; and the Caude on the weft. 
 It is a feaport, though without fhips or merchants, and is the 
 key of England on the weft fea, which is here called Solway 
 Frith, as Berwick upon Tweed is on theeaft fea. It is a 
 wealthy populous place, with well built houfes, and three 
 gates in the walls, which are about one mile in compafs, and 
 broad enough for three men to walk on them a«breaft. The 
 revenues of the city are about five hundred pounds a year, and 
 the inhabitants of the city and fuburbs are about two thou- 
 sand. It trades chiefly in fuftains ; and is governed by a 
 mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty-four common- council men, 
 a fiierifF, two bailiffs, &c. and the aflizes and feflions are mod 
 commonly held here. It has but two parifh churches, the 
 fituation of one of which, St. Mary's, is different from that 
 of any other in the kingdom ; for it ftands in the body of the 
 cathedra], which is in the middle of the city, inclofed by a 
 wall. The weft part of the cathedral fuffered much during 
 the civil wars, when the city was befieged. The Pifts wall 
 begins juft below the town, and crofles this part of the iflmd 
 to Newcaftle upon Tyne. Here was formerly a monaftery. 
 
 MARKET-TOWNS. 
 
 Cockermouth is a neatly built trading town, with a har- 
 bour, at the diftance of three hundred miles from London. 
 It lies low between tsvo hills, upon one of which is the 
 church, and on the other, over againft it, on the weft fide of 
 the Cokar, and fouth of theDerwent, is the caftle, which is 
 very ftrong. On the gates are the arms of the Moltons, 
 Humphranvilles, Lucies, and Percies. The walls are fix 
 hundred yards :n compafs. It was built foon after the con- 
 queft by William de Mefchines. In this place are the re- 
 mains of a vaulted cellar, and fome walls of a chapel, which 
 are well worth feeing. 
 
 About 
 
CUMBERLAND. 
 
 About two miles off are the ruins of Pap Cajlle, poflefled 
 by the R omans. Here was found a large veflel of green ftone, 
 curioufly engraved with the image of a prieft dipping a 
 child in water, and a Danifli infcription in Runick cha- 
 racters, fignifying that Ekard, one of their great men, was 
 baptifed here, whofe example the reft followed. It is ftill 
 ufed as a font in the neighbouring church of Bridkirk. 
 
 Whitehaven is three hundred and three miles from Lon- 
 don, and is fo called from the white cliffs that are near it, and 
 fhelter the harbour from tempefts. It is a populous rich 
 town, chiefly obliged to Sir James Lowther for iis improve* 
 ment, who was at a vaft expence to make the harbour more 
 commodious, and to beautify the town, the trade of which 
 chiefly confifts in fait and coal ; it is fo remarkable for the 
 latter, that there are feveral officers of the cuftoms, it being 
 the moft eminent port in England, next to Newcaftle, for the 
 coal trade ; infomuch that in time of war, or crofs winds, it is 
 common to fee two hundred fail of fhips go off at once from 
 hence to Dublin, by which means they continue to improve 
 fhe harbour, repair the roads, and have built a new church. 
 
 Whitehaven contains fixteen thoufand inhabitants, and has 
 three hundred (hips conftantly employed. The coaft is very 
 uncertain, by reafon of the fhifting of the fands ; and it does 
 not appear that any juft furveys have been made of it, but 
 what are very ancient , and therefore not entirely to be relied 
 on, wherefore it is very common to take pilots either in the 
 Ifle of Man or Whitehaven. 
 
 Penrith ftands at thediftance of two hundred and eighty- 
 three miles from London. The name in Britifli fignifiesara/ 
 bill 9 or bead, the ground hereabout and the ftone being of a 
 reddilh colour. It ftands on a hill called Penrith Fell, not far 
 from the conflux of the Eimot and Loder, at which is the 
 round trench called King Arthur's Table. It has a large 
 market-place, with a town-houfe of wood for its conveni- 
 ence, beautified with bears climbing up a ragged ftaff, the de- 
 vice of the Earl of Warwick* Here is a remarkable water 
 courfe brought from Peatrill. This town is large, popu- 
 lous, and well built, is noted for tanners, and reckoned the 
 fecond in the county for trade and wealth. It has a handfome 
 fpacious church, lately re-built, the roof of which is fup- 
 
 Vql. It R ported! 
 
fjO CUMBERLAND. 
 
 ported by a number of pillars, the fhafts of whofe columns 
 are of one entire ftone of a reddifh colour, hewn out of a 
 quarry at the entrance of the town* On the outfide of the 
 veflry, in the wall of this church, there is an inscription, 
 importing, that in the year 1598, a plague raged in this 
 county, of which two thoufand two hundred and fixty-fix 
 perfons died at Penrith, two thoufand five hundred at Kendal, 
 two thoufand two hundred at Richmond, and one thoufand 
 one hundred and ninety-fix at Carlifle ; which is the more re- 
 markable, as no mention is made of fuch a diftemper by any 
 hiftorian. In the church-yard are two large pyramidical pil- 
 lars, about four yards in height, and fivediftant from one 
 another, which were fet up in memory of Owen Cefarrus, 
 who is fabled to be of fo enormous a ftature, that his grave 
 they fay reached from one pillar to another. The figures of 
 bears in ftone on each fide of his grave are in remembrance 
 of his feats on thofe animals. — There are feveral ruins in the 
 neighbourhood of this town, which, from the inscriptions, 
 appear to have been Roman edifices ; as alfo a grotto on the 
 banks of the Eden, which had iron gates, and is thought to 
 have been a place of retreat. 
 
 RfAVENGLAS is generally fuppofed to derive its name from 
 the Irifh words ravigh and^/^x, which fignify a braky green, 
 fuch being the foil on which it ftands $ though fome fuppofe the 
 original name to be Avonglas^ word fignifyinga fky-coloured 
 river. Itisdiftant from London two hundred and eighty- 
 two miles, and ftands between the river Efk and a fmaller 
 ftream called the Mute, and not far from the river Ire. The 
 Efk and Mute falling here into the fea form a good harbour 
 for (hips; and the inhabitants have a confiderable fi/hery. 
 'jrhey have the privilege of taking wood from the royal forefts 
 or manors, to make the engines or weirs called fijh garths y in 
 the river Efk, which was granted them by King John, and 
 which they ft III enjoy. 
 
 Keswick ftands on the north fide of the lake formed by 
 the Derwent, and is diftant from London two hundred and 
 eighty-feven miles. It is fituated on a fruitful plain almoft 
 encompaffed with mountains, called Derwent Fells, againft 
 which the vapours that arife from below are perpetually con- 
 sented into water. It is flickered from the north winds by a 
 
 very 
 
CUMBERLAND* 
 
 very lofty mountain- called Skiddaw. Here is a workhoufe 
 for the poor of the town and pariQi, built by Sir John Banks, 
 knight, a native of this town, who was attorney-general in 
 the reign of King Charles the Firft. It has been long of 
 confiderable note for mines of black lead ; and the miners, 
 who are its chief inhabitants, have water-works by the Der- 
 went for fmelting the lead and fawing boards. Though with- 
 out any apparent trade, it receives great advantages from what 
 is fpent in the town by the nobility and gentry, who reforC 
 thither, from every part of England, to fee the natural woiif 
 ders of the lakes and mountains that furround it. 
 
 Egremont is diftant from London two hundred and 
 ninety-eight miles, and ftands on the banks of a little river 
 named Broadwater, that falls into the fea near a promontory 
 called St. Bees, about two miles fouth of Whitehaven. This 
 town formerly had a caftle ; and before the time of King 
 Edward the Firft, the middle of the twelfth century, it was 
 a borough, and fent members to parliament, privileges which 
 it loft in the reign of that Prince, It has two bridges orer 
 the river Broadwater. 
 
 Brampton is diftant from Loudon three hundred and 
 eleven miles, and lies on the river irthing, near its conflux, 
 with a Jefs confiderable ftream called the Gelt, to the north- 
 eaft of Carlifle. Here is an hofpital for fix poor men and fix 
 poor women, founded by the Countefs Dowager of Carlifle. 
 
 Jerby, or Ireby, called Market Jerby y to diftinguifti it 
 from another town called "Jerby , contiguous to it, which is 
 not a market-town, is diftant from London three hundred and 
 one miles, and ficuated at the head of the river Eln. 
 
 Kirk-Oswald, fo called from a church dedicated to St. 
 Ofwald, is diftant from London two hundred and ninety-one 
 miles, and is only remarkable for a ruined caftle, built before 
 the reign of King John. 
 
 Longtown is diftant from London three hundred and 
 thirteen miles, and ftands near the conflux of the Eik, and a 
 fmall river called the Kirkfop, on the borders of Scotland. 
 It has an hofpital, and a charity-fchool for ftxty children. 
 
 R 2 Wigtown 
 
132 CUMBERLAND. 
 
 Wigtown, fituate in a foreft called Allerdale, is diflant 
 from London three hundred and fix miles. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c# 
 
 The Duke of Norfolk has a feat at Drumhurg Cajlle % 
 on the Solway Frith; the Earl of Carlifle, at Naworth* ten 
 miles from Carlifle; the Earl of Sutfex at Kirk OfwaldAhxv- 
 teen miles from Carlifle ; Edward HafTel, Efquire , at Dacres 
 Ca/Ilejour miles fromPenrith; SirGeorgeFletcher,Baronet, 
 at Huiton Hall; the Bifliop of Carlifle at Rofe Cqftle\ and 
 the Duke of Portland at Penrith Ca/lle* 
 
 The coal mines near Whitehaven are well worth the travel- 
 ler's inflection, as they are, perhaps, the moft extraordinary of 
 any in the known world. The principal entrance into them is 
 by an opening at the bottom of an hill, through a long paffage 
 hewn in the rock, which, by a fteep defcent, leads down to 
 the loweft vein of coal. The greateft part of this defcent is 
 through galleries, which continually interfefl: other galleries 5 
 all the coals being cutaway, except large pillars, which in 
 deep parts of the mine are three yards high, and about twelve 
 yards fquare at the bafe, fuch great ftrength being there re- 
 quired to fupport the ponderous roof. The mines are funk 
 to the depth of one hundred and thirty fathoms, and are ex* 
 tended under the fea to places, where is, above them, depth of 
 water for fhips of large burthen. Thefe are the deepeft coal 
 mines that have yet been wrought. Thofe who have the di- 
 rection of thefe deep and extenfive works are obliged, with 
 great art and care, to keep them continually ventilated with 
 perpetual currents of frefh air 5 and where thefe precautions 
 are not taken, large quantities of damps are frequently col- 
 lected. Thefe often remain for a long time without doing 
 any mifchief; but when, by any accident, they are fet on fire, 
 they then produce dreadful explofions, very deftrudiive to the 
 miners 5 and burfting out of the pits with great impetuofity, 
 like the fiery eruptions from burning mountains, force along 
 with them ponderous bodies to a great height in the air. The 
 late Mr. Spedding, who was the great engineer of thefe works, 
 having obferved that the fulminating damp could be kindled 
 pnly by flame, and that it was not liable to be fet on fire by 
 
CUMBERLAND. 133 
 
 red hot iron, nor by the fparks produced by the collifion of 
 flint and flee), invented a very curious machine, in which, 
 while a fteel wheel is turned round with a very rapid motion, 
 and flints applied thereto, great plenty of fire fparks are 
 emitted, which afford the miners fuch a light as enables them 
 to carry on their works in a clofe place, where the flame of a 
 candle or lamp would occafion dreadful explofions. — There 
 are five engines belonging to this colliery, which, when all at 
 work, difcharge from it about one thoufand two hundred and 
 twenty-eight gallons every minute, at thirteen ftrokes, and, 
 after the fame rate, one million feven hundred and fixty eight 
 thoufand eight hundred and twenty gallons every twenty four 
 hours. 
 
 About a mile to the northward of Penrith, ftands the 
 Beacon* the fine profpecls from which will amply repay the 
 traveller the trouble of afcending it. It is a fquare ftone 
 building, and happily fituated for alarming the country in 
 times of public danger, as it commands an extenfive vale# 
 The northern window of the Beacon affords a profpecl: of 
 Crofs Fell, with the Pikes of Dufton, together with a qhain 
 ©f mountains extending, from eaft to weft, near thirty miles, 
 the weftern point finking in the fpacious plain where the city 
 of Carlifle lies. The utmoft bounds of this view are formed 
 by a ridge of Scotch mountains. The eaftern window pre- 
 fents a view bounded by the hills of Stanmore, and chat lofty 
 promontory Wilbore Fell, with its neighbouring mountains 
 above Kirby Stephen. Thefouth window prefents a view of 
 Broughton Caftle, and the fpreading woods of Lowther, in- 
 termixed with rich cultivated lands, from the rifing grounds. 
 Some part of the lake of Uls-water are feen from hence, 
 while the mighty rocks and mountains which hem in the lake, 
 lift up their heads in rude confufion, and crown the fcene. 
 The weftern window affords a new and not lefs pleafing 
 profpeel:. The town of Penrith lies beneath it, and here and 
 there the river Eimot fhows its windings through the woods. 
 The hill, which rife? above the town, is crowned with the 
 iwful remains of a royal fortrefs : time has defpoiled its 
 grandeur, but its honours ffili furvive to its noble owner, the 
 Duke of Portland, who therewith holds the honour of Pen- 
 rith, formerly a royal franchife. Beyond thefe objects, arnidft 
 a range of mountains, at the diftance of eighteen miles, Skid- 
 daw 
 
CUMBERLAND. 
 
 daw is feen, whofe majeftic front furmounts all the high lands 
 that terminate the view. The whole profpecl from the Bea- 
 con hill, as you turn every way, prefents a vaft theatre, up- 
 wards of one hundred miles in circumference, encircled with 
 fiupendous mountains. 
 
 Bulnefs (rands on the promontory that runs into the Sol- 
 way Frith, from which, as the utmoft limits of the province 
 of Britain, Antoninus began his Itinerary, and was anciently 
 the head town of a large manor. It is now only a village,but 
 has a fort. As a teftimony of its antiquity, the trails of ftreets 
 and pieces of old walls often appear in ploughing up the fields. 
 This country being a kind of frontier to the Romans, it is 
 no wonder that a great number of their antiquities are found 
 in it; but the chief are the ruins of the famous Picts wall, 
 built from Solway Frith through Carlifle, quite acrofs the 
 kingdom to Newcaftlf, about eighty miles in length, in order 
 to reftrain the northern people, who have always been very 
 troublefome to thofe of the fouth. This famous wall begins 
 at thediftance of a mile to the north, which, from the foot of 
 the bank of Stanwick, a little village, where the wall croffes 
 the Eden, and foruns weftvvard to Bulnefs, partes directly eaft 
 through a pleafant level country, with plenty of corn, mea- 
 dow, and pafture ground, for eight miles together ; but in all 
 this fpace the wall is chit fly taken away for building the neigh- 
 bouring houfes ; only the ridge of it is to be traced together 
 with the trench all the way before it on the north, and fome 
 of the towers on the fouth fide ; hence it runs up a pretty 
 high hill, which lies directly north from Naworth Caftle, and 
 fo continues for two miles through inclofed grounds, in which 
 fpace all the middle part of the wall is ftill ftanding. From 
 hence to its croffing the river Irthing, where it enters Nor- 
 thumberland, it moftly runs through a large wafte, where its 
 whole breadth may be feen, which in fome places is five, and 
 in others eight feet. This wall, for four or five miles to the 
 weft of Stanwick, was built on the fame ground as Severus's 
 mud wail ; but at a diftance from Irthington Moor it took a 
 different route, and the earth and ftone kept a parallel courfe 
 all the way. 
 
 The Pifl$ JVall^s the principal remain of antiquity, not 
 only in this county, but in all Britain. The Romans them- 
 
 felves 
 
CUMBERLAND. 135 
 
 felves called it Vallum Earbarlcum Pratentura, and Clufara^ 
 and the Greeks Diateichifma. It runs the whole breadth of 
 Great Britain in this place, croffing the north parts of the 
 counties of Cumberland and Northumberland, and extending 
 above eighty miles, from that part of the Irifh Sea called Sol- 
 way Frith, on the weft, to the German Ocean on the eaft. 
 This wall or fence was begun by the Emperor Adrian, and 
 built in the manner of a mural hedge, with large flakes dri- 
 ven deep into the ground, and wreathed together with wattles. 
 It was faced with earth and turf, and fortified on the north 
 with a deep ditch. It was repaired by the Emperor Severus 
 in the year 123, and ftrengthened with feveral ftone fortrefles 
 and turrets, near enough to communicate an alarm one to 
 another by found of trumpet. 
 
 The Romans being called from Britain for the defence of 
 Gaul, the North Britons broke in upon this barrier, and ia 
 repeated inroads, put all they met with to the fword. Upon 
 this the South Britons applied to Rome for afiiftance, and a 
 legion was fent over to them, which drove the enemy back 
 into their own country ; but as the Romans at this time had 
 full employment for their troops, it became neceflfary for them 
 to enable the South Britons to defend themfelves for the 
 future ; they therefore affifted them to build a wail of ftone, 
 eight feet broad and twelve feet high, of equal extent with 
 the mural hedge, and nearly upon the fame ground. This 
 •wall was compleated under the dire&ion of iElius, the 
 Roman General, about the year 430 ; and the tracks of it, 
 with the foundation of the towers or little caftles, now called 
 Cajile Steeds, placed at the diftanceof a mile one from ano- 
 ther, and the little fortified towns on the inllde, called Chejlers % 
 are ftill vifible. The neighbouring inhabitants fay, that here 
 are fcmetimes found pieces of tubes or pipes, fuppofed to be 
 wfed as trumpets, and to have been artfully laid in the wall 
 between each caftle or tower, for giving the quickeft notice 
 of the approach of the enemy, fo that any matter of moment 
 Could be communicated from fea to fea in an hour. In the 
 rubbifh of this wall was found, fome time ago, an image of 
 brafs about half a foot long, which, from the defcription the 
 ancients have given us of the god Terminus, whofe image 
 they ufed to lay in the foundation of their boundaries, appears 
 to be a reprefentation of that deity. 
 
 Half 
 
136 CUMBERLAND. 
 
 Half a mile to the weft of the river Irthing, at a place 
 called BurdiJJel 9 there is the foundation of a large caftle ; and 
 from a moor called Irthington Moor, after Irthington, a town 
 lituated on this river, the traces of theftone wall, and the old 
 wall of earth are both vifible, and continue the fame route pa- 
 rallel to each other, at the diftance of about one hundred 
 yards, the new wall being fouth of the old, quite to New- 
 caftle. The wall enters Northumberland, not far from Ir- 
 thington Moor, and foon after croflesa fmall river called Tip- 
 pall, atThirlewall Caftle ; from Thirlewall Caftle it is con- 
 tinued over a range of rugged, naked, and fteep rocks, that 
 extends about nine miles, and is built in fome places not more 
 than fix feet from the precipice, in none more than twenty- 
 four. The higheft part of it that is now (landing, between 
 Carlifle and Newcaftle, is about half a mile from Thirlewall 
 Bankhead, near Thirlewall Caftle ; it is there nine feet high j 
 and at this place there are the veftiges of a Roman city, fur- 
 rounded by a deep trench. From hence to Seavenfliale, 
 which is fuppofed to be about half way between the two ex- 
 tremities of the wall, it is removed to the very foundations, 
 except in very few places, where it ftill ftands to the height of 
 about three feet. This part of the country, efpecially on the 
 north fide of the wall, has adifmal afpeft, being all wild fells 
 and moors, full of mofles and loughs. 
 
 At Seavenjhak) on the north fide of the wall, is ftill to be 
 feen the greateft part of a fquare Roman caftle, curioufly 
 vaulted underneath. At Carrow-brough, one mile and half 
 from Seavenfhale, are the traces of another Roman city, fur- 
 rounded by a wall. At Port gate, half a mile north-weft of 
 Hexham, in Northumberland, there are great ruins of ancient 
 buildings, and a fquare tower is ftill ftanding, and converted 
 into a dwelling-houfe. From Portgate to Halton Sheels, 
 being the diftanceof a mile and an half, there is only part of 
 the middle of the wall remaining. From Halton Sheels, for 
 two miles farther eaft, the whole breadth of the wall is ftill 
 ftanding, and the afhler front of the wall is very difcernable 
 all the way to Walltow r n, which ftands at the diftance of 
 eight miles from Newcaftle, and about half a mile fouth of 
 the wall. From Walltown to Newcaftle, the wall runs 
 over a deal of high ground, and through variety of fine com 
 land and inclofures of meadow and pafture j and from the 
 
 foot 
 
CUMBERLAND. 137 
 
 foot of Benwell Hills to the end, being about two miles, it 
 runs along the high road to Weftgate, in Newcaftle. 
 
 Among the natural curiofities of this county we may reckon 
 the mountains, fome of which are remarkable for their 
 height, particularly Hard-knot bill, Wry-nofe, and Skiddaw. 
 Hard' knot-bill 9 at the foot of which rifes the river Efk, is a 
 ragged mountain, fo fteep, that it is almofl: impofiible to af- 
 cend it; yet about a hundred and fifty years ago, fome huge 
 ftones were difcovered upon the very fummit, which Camden, 
 fuppofedto have been the foundation of a calile, but which 
 may with greater probability be confidered as the ruins of 
 fome church or chapel ; for in the early ages of Chriftianity, 
 it was a work of moft meritorious devotion, to erect crofTes 
 and build chapels upon the tops of the higheft hills and pro- 
 montories, not only becaufe they were more confpicuous, but 
 becaufe they were proportionally nearer to Heaven ; fucli 
 buildings were generally dedicated to St. Michael ; and it 
 was from fuch chapels and croflfes, that the ridge of moun- 
 tains, which run along the eaft fide of this county, on the 
 bordersof Northumberland* obtained the name of Crofs Fells, 
 for they were before called Fiends, or Devil's Fell* > and a 
 fmall town at the bottom of chem ftill bears the name of 
 Diljlon, which is a corruption of Devil's Town, the name by 
 which it is called in fome ancient records ftill extant, 
 
 Wry-nofe is fituated about a mile fouth-eaft of Hard-knot- 
 hill, near the high road from Penrith to Kirby, a market town 
 in Lancafhire. Near this road, and on the top of the moun- 
 tain, are three ftones, commonly called Shire- Stones 9 which, 
 though they lie within a foot one of another, are yet in three 
 counties ; one in Cumberland, another in Weftmoreland, and 
 the third in Lancafhire. 
 
 Skiddaw ftands north of Kefwick, and, at a prodigious 
 height, divides, like Parnaffus, into two heads, from whence 
 there is a view of ScrofFel Hill, in theftiireof Annandaie, in 
 Scotland, where the people prognofticate a change of weather 
 by the mills that rife or fali upon the top of this mountain, 
 according to the following proverbial rhyme : 
 
 <€ If Skiddaw have a cap, 
 u Scroiiel wots fall well of that," 
 Vol. I. S From 
 
j 3 8 CUMBERLAND. 
 
 From the fouth-eafl: is a view over the to<>s of mou ntains, 
 one fucceeding io or overlooking the other — a fcene of chaos 
 and nighty confufion* This was the profpect which Dr. 
 Brown described by the image of a tempejluous fea of moun- 
 tains. Below it lies the lake, with all the beauties of its 
 margin, together with the vale of Kefwick, and the waters of 
 Baffenthwaite, as if delineated on a chart. To the fouth, 
 the hills towards Cockcrmouth, though lefs rugged and ro- 
 mantic than thofe towards the fouth-eaft, are yet no lefs ftu- 
 pendous. To the north-eaft is a profpc-£t of a wide and bar- 
 ren heath, extending its plains to Carlille, and terminated 
 by the mountains of Scotland, To the north-eaft is a prof* 
 peel of that fpacious circus in which Penrith flands, the 
 queen of the vale, overtopped by Crofs Fells, which form the 
 moft diftant back ground. Skiddaw is faid to be, from the 
 plane of the lake's furface, three thoufand four hundred and 
 fifty feet in perpendicular height. 
 
 Befides HarJ-knot-hill, Wry-nofe, and Skiddaw, there are 
 two other mountains, called hauvellin and Caftinand^ which 
 2re joined in a couplet of the fame age and kind : 
 
 " Skiddaw, Lauvellin, and Cafdnand, 
 *' Are the higheft hills in all England." 
 
 TJls-JVater lies a few miles to the eafl of Kefwick, and is a 
 fheet of water nine miles in extent, and above a mile in 
 V/idth. When viewed from an adjoining eminence, you dif- 
 cern all its bays, fhores, and promontories, and in the exten- 
 five landfcape take in a variety of objects, thrown together 
 with all that beauty which wood and water, lawns riling from 
 fweeps of corn, villas, villages, and cots, furmounted by im- 
 ir.enfe moon fains and rude cliffs, can form to the eye. The 
 country to the right, for many miles, is variegated in the 
 fineft manner by enclofures, woods, and villas, arnongft: 
 -which Grayftock, JDacre, and Deimain, are feen ; whilft, to 
 the left, nothing but ftupendous mountains, and rude pro- 
 jecting rocks, prefent themfelves, vying with each other for 
 grandeur and eminence.* — 44 While we fat on one of the 
 ** iflands of this lake to regale ourfelves, (fays the ingenious 
 * 4 Mr. Hutchinfon) the barge put off from the fnore to a 
 " ftation where the fineft echo was to be obtained from the 
 ff ftjrropnding mountains. On difchargirig one of their can- 
 
 |f (ion^ 
 
CUMBERLAND. 139 
 
 u fton, the report was echoed from the oppofite rock, where, 
 
 <c by reverberation, it Teemed to roll from cliff to cliff, and re- 
 
 w turn through every cave and valley, till the decreafing tu~ 
 
 " mult gradually died away upon the ear. The inftant it had 
 
 ** ceafed, the found of every diftant waterfall was heard, but 
 
 * c for an inftant only ; for the momentary ftillnefs was inter- 
 
 <c rupted by the returning echo of the hill behind, where the 
 
 4< report was repeated like a peal of thunder; and thus run- 
 
 n ning from rock to rock, the report of every difcharge was 
 
 ** re-echoed feven times diftin&Iy. But a general difcharge 
 
 4< of fix brafs cannon roufed us to new aftonifhment. Though. 
 
 * c we had heard with great furprife the former echoes, this 
 
 •* exceeded them fo much that it feemed incredible; for on 
 
 •* every hand the founds were reverberated and returned from 
 
 " fide to fide, lb as to give the refetgiblance of that confufiora 
 
 ** and horrid uproar, which the falling of thofe ftupendous 
 
 <s rocks would occafion, if, by fome internal combuflion, they 
 
 c< were rent to pieces and hurled into the Jake."— The effects 
 
 of mufic here are equally wonderful and pleafing. 
 
 Kefwick Lake, though inferior in fize to U Is- Water, affords 
 many delightful fcer.es. The water, which ftill bears the name 
 of Derwentwater^ though embodied in fo great a lake, faid to 
 be ten miles in circumference, is tranfparent as chryftal, over 
 whofe furface five fine iflands are difperfed ; fome are covered 
 with corn, others clothed in wood, and the hills are lofty, 
 arifing on every fide from the margin of the lake. Here the 
 mountains are in fome parts covered with grafs, in others with 
 heath; there the rocks are covered witii fiirubs and brufh- 
 wood, which hang in their apertures and creeks. Little val- 
 leys of cultivated land prefent themfelves in the openings 
 and windings of the mountains* and fmall enrlofures aad 
 groves of oak ftretch up the precipitate afcents of feveral hills 
 from the brink of the water. At the head of the baion, the 
 mountains are more rugged and romantic. In fome parts 
 water-falls ftrike the ear from every fide with agreeable folem- 
 nity. <6 Here (fays Mr. Pennant) all the poffible variety of 
 <c alpine fcenery is exhibited, with all the horror of precr- 
 " pice, broken crag, or overhanging rock; or infulated pyra- 
 46 midal hills, contrafted with others, whofe fmooth and ver- 
 " dant fides fwelling into immenfe and aerial heights, at once 
 " pleafe and furprife the eye* The two extremes of the 
 
 3 2 « laks 
 
CUMBERLAND* 
 
 <c lake afford mod delightful profpefls : the fouthern is a 
 ct compoiition of all that is horrible. An immenfe chafm 
 <6 opens in the midll, whofe entrance is divided by a rude 
 <c conic hil!, once topped with a caftle, the habitation of the 
 <c tyrant of the rocks ; beyond a feries of broken moun- 
 <c tainous crags foar one above the other, overfhadowing the 
 45 dark winding fieps of Burrowdale. But the oppofite, or 
 € * northern view, is in all refpedis a ftrongand beautiful con- 
 * 5 trafi. Skiddaw {hows its vaft bafe, and, bounding all that 
 c< part of the vale, rifes gently to a height that finks the 
 * 4 neighbouring hills, opens a plcafmg front fmooth and ver- 
 <c dant, failing over the country like a gentle generous lord* 
 Ci while the fells of Burrowdale frown on it like a hardened 
 ** tyrant* The water of this lake is fubjeft to violent agi- 
 c£ tations, even when link or no wind is ftirring ; and boats 
 c< are frequently tofTed about with great violence by what is 
 €i called a bottom wind^ which raifes the waves to a great 
 " height." 
 
 Near to Little Salkeld^ on the fummit of a large hill, a 
 little towards the north, is a large imperfect druidical monu- 
 ment, by the country people called Long Meg and her 
 Daughters* 
 
 Morejbj^ near Whitehaven, is remarkable for many remains 
 of antiquity. This place is fuppofed to be the ancient Mor- 
 bium where the Equites Cataphra£larii were quartered, be- 
 caufe there appears forne fimilitude between Morbium and 
 Morefby ; but it is more probable that Morefby, the name of 
 the place, was derived from Maurice^ or Morefce^ the name of 
 a perfon of note, who is known to have fixed his feat near 
 this place, and may therefore be reafonably fuppofed to have 
 given it his name, as many others have done to feveral towns 
 in this county. The Ihore near this place appears to have 
 been fortified by the Romans in all places convenient for 
 landing, by the ruins of their works, which are ftill remain- 
 ing. There are alfo vaults, foundations of ancient buildings, 
 and caverns, called Picls Holes. 
 
 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
DERBYSHIRE 
 
 ^T^HIS county, which lies in the middle of England, in- 
 X clining a little northward, is bounded by Nottingham- 
 fhire and part of Leicefterftiire on the eaft, by another part 
 of Leicefterfhire on the fouth, bv Staffbrdfiiire and part of 
 Chefhire on the weft, and by Yorfcfhire on the north. It is of 
 a triangular form ; its length from fouth to north is about forty 
 miles; its breadth upon the north fide is about thirty miles, 
 and on the fouth fide it is no more than fix ; its circumfe- 
 rence is about one hundred and thirty miles. The two parts 
 into which the river Derwent divides this county are very dif- 
 ferent, as well with refpect to the air as to the foil, except j u It 
 on the banks of the river, where the foil on both fides is re- 
 markably fertile. In the eaftward divifion the air is healthy, 
 snd its temperature agreeable. The foil is in general fruit- 
 ful, and therefore well cultivated, producing grain of almoft 
 every kind, in great abundance, particularly barley. Buciri 
 the weftern divifion the air in general is fllarper, the weather 
 is more variable, and ftorms of wind and rain more frequent. 
 The face of the county is rude and mountainous, and the foil, 
 except in the vallies, is rocky and fterile ; the hills, however, 
 afford pafture for fheep, which in this county are very nume- 
 rous. Along the banks of the river Dove this county is re- 
 markably fertile, which is generally afcribed to its frequently 
 overflowing them, efpecially in the fpring, and leaving behind 
 it a prolific flime, which it brings from the beds of lime 
 among which it -rifes: this river is particularly famous for 
 producing a fifli called graylings^ and for trouts is reckoned 
 thebeft in England. The weftern part of this county, not- 
 withftanding its barrennefs, is yet as profitable to the inhabi- 
 tants as the eaftern part, for it produces great quantities of 
 the beft lead, alfo antimony, mill-ftones and grind-ftones, be- 
 sides marble, alabafter, a coarfefortof chryftal fpar, green and 
 white vitriol, alum, pic^coal, and iron. The marbles, fpars, 
 
 and 
 
142 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 and petrefa&ions, take a fine polifh, and, from their great va* 
 liety, are capable of being rendered extremely beautiful* 
 Thefe are made into vafes, urns, pillars, &c. 
 
 The principal rivers in this county are the Derwent, the 
 Dove, and the Erwafh. T he Derwent rifes in a rocky, 
 mountainous, and barren tracT: of country, in the north-wefi: 
 part of this county, which the Saxons called Peaclond, that 
 is, an eminence, and is now called The Peak of Derby \ thencs 
 it runs fouth-eafi:, through a foil (which gives the water a 
 blackifh colour} quite crofs the county, dividing it nearly into 
 equal parts ; and about eight miles fouth*eali of Derby, it 
 falls into the Trent, a large river which rifes in Stafrordfh ire, 
 and runs through the counties of Derby, Nottingham, Lin- 
 coln, and York. The Dove is faid to derive its name from 
 the glofly blue or purple colour of its water, which refembles 
 the colour of the bird of the fame name* This river alfo 
 rifes in the Peak of Derby, and running fouth-eaft, divides 
 this county from StafTordfhire, and falls into the Trent, a 
 few miles from Burton upon Trent, in Stafford/hire* The 
 Erwafh feparates the counties of Derby and Nottingham, 
 and falls into the Trent four or five miles north-eaft of the 
 place where the Derwent empties itfelf into that river. 
 
 Derbyfhire is divided into fix hundreds, and contains eleven 
 market-towns, but no city. It lies in the province of Can- 
 terbury, and diocefe of Litchfield and Coventry, and con- 
 tains one hundred and fix pariflies, and about five hundred 
 villages. 
 
 MARKET-TOWNS. 
 
 Derby, which is the county-town, is one hundred and 
 twenty-fix miles from London 5 and is a coiifiderable town, 
 well built, and full of manufacturers, chiefly thofe in the 
 flocking branch, which employs many hands, it is fituated 
 upon the weftern bank of the Derwent, and upon the fouth 
 is watered by a fmalier ft ream , called Mertin Brook, which 
 falls into the Derwent, a little way eaft of the town. Over 
 this brook there are nine bridges, and there is alfo a fine ftone 
 bridge of five arches over the Derwent, upon which there is 
 a dwelling-houfe that was formerly a chapel dedicated to Su 
 Mary. This town was a royal borough in the reign of Jrid- 
 
 ward 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 ward the ConfeiTor, and was afterwards incorporated by a 
 charter frorn'vKkig Charles the Firft. lt s is governed by a 
 mayor, nine aldermen, a recorder, a town -cleric, fourteen 
 brethren, and fourteen common councilmen It it divided 
 into five parities, in each of which there is a church. The 
 church of All Saints is the moft remarkable: it appears by 
 an infcription to have been originally built by the contribu- 
 tion of the batchelors and maidens of the town, in the reign 
 of Queen Mary ; but no part of the old building is (landing, 
 except the tower, which is a beautiful Gothic ftrufture, one 
 hundred and feventy-eight feet high ; the chancel has been 
 lately rebuilt. Near this church is an hofpital for eight poor 
 men and four women, founded by a Countefs of Devonfhire. 
 The town-hall, in which the aflizes and feflions are kept, is a 
 large beautiful building of free-frone, with a handfome court- 
 yard, neatly paved, and planted with trees. Many gentlemen 
 who have eftates in the Peak refide here. Onapieceof 
 ground called The Row Ditches^ near this town, there are 
 frequent horfe-races. 
 
 In an ifland of the Derwent, facing Derby, Is a machine, 
 erected in the year 1734* by Sir Thomas Lombe, for the ma- 
 nufacture of filk, the model of which was brought out of 
 Italy, at the.hazard of his life. It is a mill which works the 
 three capital engines made ufe of by the Italians for making 
 organzine or thrown filk; fo that by this machinery one hand 
 mill twifts as much filk as could be done before by fifty, and 
 better. The engine contains twenty-fix thoufand five hun- 
 dred and eighty-fix wheels, and ninety-fever, thoufand feven 
 hundred and forty-fix movements, which works feventy- 
 three thoufand feven hundred and twenty-fix yards of 
 filk thread every time the water wheel goes round, which is 
 three times in a minute, and three hundred and eighteen mil- 
 lion five hundred and four thoufand nine hundred and fixty 
 yards in one day and night. One water wheel gives motion to 
 all the reft, and one of the movements maybe flopped feparately. 
 One fire engine likewife conveys warm air to every part of 
 the machine, and the whole is governed by one regulator. 
 The houfe which contains this engine is five or fix ftories 
 high, and half a quarter of a mile in length. Upon the ex- 
 piration of the patent which the introducer of it had ob- 
 tained for fourteen years, the parliament granted Sir Tho- 
 mas fourteen thoufand pounds as a further recompence for 
 
 the 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 the great hazard and expence he had incurred in Introducing 
 and ere&ing the engine, upon condition of his allowing a per- 
 fect model to be taken of it, in order to perpetuate the art of 
 making the fame. 
 
 Chesterfield is one hundred and forty-nine mile? from 
 London, and is the chief town of an hundred in the north- 
 eaft part of this county, called Scarjdale hundred. It is 
 pieafantly fituated in a fruitful foil on the fide of a hill, be- 
 tween two rivulets, called the Ibher and Rather. It was 
 made a free borough by King John, but is now only a corpo* 
 ration, governed by a mayor and aldermen. It is populous 
 and well built ; the market-place is fpacious, and a market- 
 houfe has been lately ere&ed. The church is a fine ftru&fcre, 
 but the fpire, being built of timber and covered with lead, is 
 warped by the weather from its perpendicular direftion. Here 
 is a free-fchool, which isfaid to be the moft confiderable in the 
 north of England, and fends many ftudents to the univer- 
 fities, efpecially to Cambridge. The market is well fupplied 
 with lead, grocery, mercery, malt, leather, {lockings, blankets, 
 and bedding, commodities in which it carries on a confide- 
 rable trade with Yorkfliire, Northamptonfhire, Lincolnftiire, 
 Leicefterfhire, and London, as well as with the neighbouring 
 towns, the Peak, the city of Chefter, Manchefter, and Li- 
 verpool. 
 
 Wirksworth, or Worksworth, which is one hun- 
 dred and thirty-eight miles from London, is a large well fre- 
 quented town in the Peak, and the greateft market for lead in 
 England. At Creich, a village near this town, are furnaces 
 for fmelting it ; and it is obfervable that the fealon they chufe 
 for this work is when the weft wind blows, as being the 
 moft lafting of all. The people employed about this work 
 are called the peakrills^ and have a remarkable court among 
 them, called the barmoot^ relative to the mines and contro- 
 verfies among the miners. The King claims the thirteenth 
 penny, for which they compound, at the rate of one thou- 
 fand pounds a year 5 and it is faid that the tythe of Workf- 
 worth is worth as much yearly. There is an handfome 
 church, a fiee«fchool 5 and anaims-houfe at Workfworth. 
 
 ASHBURNB 
 
DERBYSHIRE 145 
 
 Ashborne is one hundred and thirty-nine miles from Lon- 
 don, and is fituated on the ea ft fide of the river Dove, and on 
 the borders of Stafford (hi re. It (lands in a rich foil, and car- 
 ries on a confiderable traffic in cheefe, great quantities of 
 which are fent up and down the Trent* 
 
 Bakewell is one hundred and fifty-one miles from 
 London, and is fituated upon a fmall river called the JVye % 
 near its conflux with the Derwent. It is fuppofed to have 
 been a Roman town, from certain altars dug up near it fome 
 years ago, in the grounds belonging to Haddon-Houfe, and 
 cut in a rough kind of ftone. 
 
 To the eaft of this town is Scar/dale, a rich fruitful tra£t, 
 fo called from the Saxon Jkarrs, barren rocks, with which it 
 is furrounded* 
 
 Alfreton, which is thought to have been anciently called 
 jJlfred's Town, from its having been originally built by King 
 Alfred, is fituated one hundred and thirty-nine miles from 
 London, and is only remarkable for its ale, which is ftrong, 
 and of a good flavour. 
 
 Bolsover is one hundred and forty-feven miles from Lon* 
 don, and is chiefly noted for making good tobacco pipes. 
 
 Winster is one hundred and forty-fix miles from London, 
 and is fituated fouth-weft of Bakewell, near fome rich mines 
 of lead. 
 
 Tideswell is one hundred and fifty-eight miles from 
 London, and is fuppofed to have derived its name from a well 
 or fpringnear the bottom of a hill near it, which conftantly 
 ebbs and flows with the tide of the fea. There is a free- 
 fchool in this town. 
 
 Dronfield is one hundred and fifty-four miles from Lon- 
 don ; and is fituated among the mountains at the edge of the 
 Peak, in a remarkably wholefome air Here is a grammar- 
 fchool, which was founded by Mr. Fanfliaw, a native of this 
 place, who was Remembrancer of the Exchequer to Queen 
 Elizabeth. 
 
 Vol I. T Chapel 
 
146 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 Chapel in the Frith is an Inconfiderable town, foli- 
 ated in an hundred called The High Peak^ at the diftance of 
 one hundred and fixty-three miles from London. 
 
 The WONDERS of the PEAK. 
 
 Thefe are the mod remarkable curiofities in the county of 
 Derby, and we fhall, therefore, here give a particular defcrip-- 
 tion of them. They are feven in number. 
 
 I. Chatfwo rth- Ho life. This is the magnificent feat of the 
 Duke of Devonfliire, and is the only one of the fever, won- 
 ders that is not the production of nature. It ftands about fix 
 miles fouth-weft of Chefterfield, on the eaft fide of the Der- 
 went, having the river on one fide, and on the other a very 
 lofty mountain, the declivity of which is planted very 
 thick with firs. The heads of thefe trees gradually rifing as 
 the mountain afcends, might feem to a poetical imagi- 
 nation to have climbed one above another, to overlook and 
 admire the beauties of the building below. The front of the 
 houfe, which looks to the gardens, is a piece of regular archi- 
 tecture. Under the comer of the frife is the family motto, 
 Cavendo tutus^ which, though but twelve letters, reaches the 
 whole length of the pile. The faflies of the attic ftory are 
 feventeen feet hrgh ^ the panes are of ground glafs, two feec 
 wide, and the wood work of the frames is doubly gilt. The 
 hall and chapel are adorned with paintings by Verrio, parti- 
 cularly a very fine rep re fen ration of the death of Csefarin the 
 capitol, and of the refurre&ion of Cbrift, The chambers, 
 v/hich are large and elegant, form a magnificent gallery, at the 
 end of which is the Duke's clofet, finely beautified with In- 
 dian paintings. The weft front, which faces the Derwenf, 
 is adorned with a magnificent portal, before which there is a 
 ftone bridge over this river, with a tower upon it that was 
 built by the Countefs of Shrewfbury. There is alfo in an 
 ifland in the river, a building like acaftlc, which, feen from 
 the houfe, has a good effecl, In the garden there is a grovs 
 of cyprefs trees, and feveral ftatues extremely well executed. 
 There is alfo a very fine piece of water, in which there are 
 feveral ftatues, representing Neptune, his nereids, and fea- 
 horfes : on the banks there is a tree of copper, reprefenting a 
 
 willow, 
 
( 
 
 I 
 
DERBYSHIRE, 
 
 willow, from every leaf of which water is made to iflue by 
 the turning of a cock, fo as to form an artificial fhower. 
 Advantage has been taken of the irregularity of the ground 
 to form a cafcade : at the top are two fea nymphs with their 
 urns, through which the water iffues ; and in the bafon, at 
 bottom, there is an artificial rofe, fo contrived, that the wa- 
 ter may be made to iflue from it fo as to form the figure of 
 that flower in the air. There are many other beauties both 
 of art and nature, peculiar to the place, of which no defcrip- 
 tion, however minute and judicious could convey .an adequate 
 idea. This palace was built by William, the firft Duke of 
 Devonfhire. The ftone ufed in the building was dug from 
 quarries on the fpot, including the marble, which is finely 
 veined, and is found in fuch plenty, that feveral people have 
 ufed it to build houfes. 
 
 From Chatfworth-Houfe there is a moor, extending thir- 
 teen miles north, which has neither hedge, houfe, or tree, but 
 is a dreary and defolate wildernefs, which no ftranger can 
 crofs without a guide* This plain however contribuces not 
 a little to the beauty of Chatfworth ; for the contraft not 
 only renders it more ftriking, but it contains a large body of 
 water, covering near thirty acres of ground, which is not 
 only a common drain for the adjacent country, but fupplies 
 all therefervoirs, canals, cafcades, and other waterworks ia 
 the gardens of Chatfworth-Houfe, to k which it is conducted 
 by pipes, properly difpofed for that purpofe. 
 
 Upon the hills beyond the garden is a park, where are alfo 
 fome ftatues and other curiofitiesj but even thefe hills are 
 overlooked by a very high rocky mountain, from which the 
 view of the palace, and the cultivated valley in which it 
 ftands, breaks at once upon the traveller like the effedi of en- 
 chantment. 
 
 In the houfe that was firft built upon this fpot, by Sir 
 William Cavendifh, of Suffolk, Mary Queen of Scots re- 
 mained prifoner forfeventeen years, under the care of Caven- 
 difli's widow, the Countefs of Shrewfbury, in memory of 
 which, the new lodgings that are built in the place of the 
 old are ftill called The £>ueen of Scots 7 Apartment. Marfhai 
 Tallard, alfo, the French general, who was taken prifoner by 
 the Duke of Marlborough at the battle of Blenheim, was en- 
 tertained here a few days $ and when he took his leave of the 
 Duke of Devonfhire, he faid, « That when he returned to 
 
 T 2 € France, 
 
148 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 * France, and reckoned up the days of his captivity in Eng- 
 € land, he (hould leave out thofe he had fpent at Chatf- 
 f worth/ 
 
 II. Mam Torpor Mother Tower. This is a mountain on 
 the north fide of the road from Buxton to Caftleton, under 
 which are feveral lead mines. Great quantities of earth and 
 large ftones are very frequently failing down from it, if the 
 weather be ever fo calm, and with fo loud a noife as often to 
 terrify the inhabitants of the neighbourhood ; and yet the 
 mountain is of fuch an enormous bulk, that the decreafe of 
 it is not to be perceived. 
 
 III. BdenHoky which is near Chapel in the Frith, is a 
 yaft chafm in the fide of a mountain, twenty-one feet wide, 
 and more than forty long. In this chafm or cave appears the 
 ipouth of a pit, the depth of which could never be fathomed ; 
 a plummet once drew eight hundred and eighty-four yards 
 (which is fomething more than half a mile) of line after it, 
 of which the Jaft eighty yards were wet, but no bottom was 
 found, Seyeral attempts to fathom it have been fince made, and 
 the plummet has fome times flopped at half that depth, owing 
 probably to its refting on fome of the protuberances that 
 ftand out from the fides. That fuch protuberances there 
 are, is proved by ap experiment conftantly made, to fhew its 
 great depth to thofe who vifit the place, by the poor people 
 that attend them, who always throw fome large ftones down 
 into it, which are heaid to ftrike againft the irregularities of 
 the fide with a fainter and fainter found, that is at length 
 gradually loft. The Earl of Leicefter, in the reign of Queen 
 Elizabeth, hired a poor wretch to venture down in a bafket, 
 who, after he had defcended two hundred ells, was drawn up 
 again, but to the great difappointment of the curious enquirer, 
 Jie had loft his fenfes, and in 3. few days after died delirious. 
 The cavern in which this pit is found, is contracted within 
 the rock, and water is continually trickling from the top, 
 wbece it alfo forms fparry concretions. 
 
 IV. Buxton Wells derive their name from the village of 
 Buxton, near the head of the river Wye. The medicinal 
 water here rifes from nine fprings ; and the bed or foil from 
 which the water iffbes, is a kind of marble j and it is re- 
 markable 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 markable, that within five feet of one of the hot fprings 
 there is a cold one. The ufe of thefe waters, both by drink- 
 ing and bathing, is much recommended, and the wells are 
 therefore greatly frequented in the fu turner feafon. The wa- 
 ter is faid to be fulphureous and faline, yet it is not foetid nor 
 unpalatable, becaufe the fulphur is not united with any vitrio- 
 lic particles, and with but few that are faline. For the fame 
 reafon it does not tinge filver, nor a£l as a cathartic. When 
 drank it creates a good appetite, removes obftru£iions, and if 
 mixed with the chalybeate water, with which this place alfo 
 abounds, it anfwers all the intentions of the fprings at 
 Bath, or thofe of the Hot Wells below Briftol. The ufe of 
 this water, by bathing, has been recommended by phyfictans 
 in all fcorbutic, rheumatic, and nervous diforders. Thefe 
 wells are inclofed within an handfome ftone building, erected 
 at the charge of George Earl of Shrewlbury. Here is a con- 
 venient houfe for the accommodation of ftrangers, built at 
 the charge of the Duke of Devonfhire* There is a bath- 
 room which is arched over head, and is rendered handfome 
 and convenient. The bath will accommodate twenty peo- 
 ple at a time to walk and fwim in. The temper of the wa- 
 ter is blood warm, and it may be raifed at pleafure to any 
 height. Mary Queen of Scots, who was here for fome time, 
 took her leave of it, in the diftich of Caefar uponFekria, va* 
 ried thus : 
 
 *f Buxtona, qius collides celebrare nomine lymphte, 
 * ( Forte mihi pojibac non adeunda y Vale" 
 
 V. Tide/well is a fpring fituated near the markeNtown to 
 which it has given its name. The well is about three feet 
 deep, and three feet wide, and the water, in different and un- 
 certain periods of time, finks and rifes, with a gurgling nojfe, 
 two-thirds of the perpendicular depth of the well. Many con- 
 jectures have been formed to account for this phaenomenon. 
 Some have thought that in the aqueduft a ftone ftands in equi- 
 librio, and produces the rife and fall of the water, by vibra- 
 ting backwards and forwards ; but it is as difficult to conceive 
 what (hould produce this vibration at uncertain periods, as 
 what fhould produce the rife and fall of the water. Others 
 imagine that thefe irregular ebbings and Sowings, as well as 
 the gurgling noife, are occalioned by air, which agitates or 
 
 preffes 
 
150 DERBYSHIRE, 
 
 prefles the water from the fubterraneous cavities ; but thefe 
 do not tell us what can be fuppofed firft to move the air. 
 And others have imagined the fpring to be occafionally fup- 
 plied from the overflowing of fome fubterraneous body of 
 water, lying upon a higher level. 
 
 VI. PooFsHole is a cave in the Peak, which isfaid to have 
 taken its name from one iW, a notorious robber, who being 
 outlawed, fccreted himfelf here from juftice; but others will 
 have it that Pool was fome hermit, or anchorite, who made 
 choice pf this difmal hole for his cell. Pool's Hole is fituated 
 at the bottom of a lofty mountain, called Coitmofsy near Bux- 
 ton. The entrance is by a fmall arch, fo very low, that fuck 
 as venture into it are forced to creep upon their hands and 
 knees, but it gradually opens into a vault more than a quar- 
 ter of a mile long, and, as fome have pretended, a quarter of a 
 mile high. It is certainly very lofty, and looks not unlike the 
 infide of a Gothic cathedral. In a cavern to the right, called 
 Pool's Chamber^ there is a fine echo, though it does not appear 
 of what kind it is; and the found of a current of water, 
 which runs along the middle of the great vault, being rever- 
 berated on each fide, very much increafes the aftonifhment of 
 all who vifit the place. On the floor here are great ridges of 
 ftone. Water is perpetually difHlling from the roof and fides 
 of the vault, and the drops, before they fall, produce a very 
 pleafing effed, by reflediing numberlefs rays from the candles 
 carried by the guides ; they alfo, from their quality, form 
 cryflallizations of various forms, like the figures of fret- 
 work; and in fome places, having been long accumulated one 
 upon another, they have formed large mafles, bearing a rude 
 refemblance to men, lions, dogs, and other animals. In this 
 cavity is a column, as clear as alabafter, called Mary ^ueen 
 of Scots' Pillar, becaufe it is faid fhe went in fo far ; and be- 
 yond it there is a fteep afcent for near a quarter of a mile^ 
 which terminates in a hollow in the roof, called The Needle's 
 £ye 9 in which, when the guide places his candle, it looks like 
 a ftar in the firmament. If a piftol is fired near the Queen's 
 Pillar, the report will be as loud as a cannon. There is ano- 
 ther paflage, by which people generally return. Not far 
 from this place are two fpriogs, one cold and the other hor, 
 but fo near one another, that the thumb and finger of thje 
 fame hand may be put into both ftreams at the fame time. 
 
 VII. Tkt 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 VIL The Devil's Arfe^ for what reafon fo called is not 
 known, is a cavern, which runs under a fteep hill, about fix 
 miles north-weft of Tidefwell,by an horizontal entrance lixty 
 feet wide, and fomething more than thirty feet high. The top 
 of this entrance refembles a regular arch, checquered with 
 ftones of different colours, from which petrifying water is 
 continually dropping* Here arefeveral huts, which look like 
 a little town, inhabited by afet of people who feem in a great 
 meafure to fubfift by guiding ftrangers into the cavern, which 
 opens at the extremity of this entrance. The outward pare 
 of this cave is very dark ; it is alfo rendered very flippery by 
 a current of water which runs acrofs the entrance; and the 
 rock hangs folow, that it is neceflary to ftoop in order to go 
 under it; but having pafled this place, and another current 
 which fometimes cannot be waded, the arch opens again to a 
 third current, near which are large banks of fand ; after thofe 
 are parted the rock clofes. This cavern is fometimes called 
 Peak's Hole. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Chatfworth Houfe> the moft magnificent feat in this county, 
 has been already defcribed ; it being generally included among 
 the feven wonders of the Peak. But there are other feats in 
 Derbyfhire well worthy of attention, among which are the 
 following:— 
 
 Keddlejlone Hall, near Derby, is the feat of Lord Scarfdale. 
 This is one of the fineft houfes in the kingdom. The prin- 
 cipal front is beautiful; it extends three hundred and fixty 
 feet, confiftingof a centre, and two wings of pavilions. The 
 portico is light, and confifts of fix very fine pillars, which 
 fupport the tympanum, at the points of which are ftatues. 
 The garden front is a very uncommon one, but light ; the 
 centre has no window in it, but four pillars project from the 
 wall, and fupport as many ftatues ; between them are niches 
 with ftatues in them alfo. 
 
 The Egyptian hall is a very noble room; and has in it a 
 very magnificent range of Corinthian columns of Derbyfliire 
 marble Here are two ftatues, one of Apollo, and the other 
 of Meleager. The chimney-pieces are of ftatuary marble, 
 
 one 
 
i 5 2 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 one of which reprefents the rape of the Sabines, by Michael 
 Angelo, and the other the continence of Scipio, by the fame 
 mafter. 
 
 The north mufic room is thirty-fix feet long, by twenty- 
 four wide, and twenty-two feet high, finifhed with ftucco, 
 an Ionic entablature, antique cieling, compartments, and 
 ornaments. The chimney-piece is of ftatuary marble. 
 Among the paintings here are Bacchus and Ariadne, a very 
 capital piece, by Guido; the temple of Flora, by Viviano; 
 an old man's head, the expreffion of which is remarkably fine, 
 by Rembrandt ; and the Roman charity, by Signora Pozzi. 
 
 The withdrawing-room is hung with blue damafk, antique 
 cieling, coved, and very elegant. A Venetian window, and 
 the door-cafes finely finifhed with Corinthian columns in ala- 
 bafter. The chimney-piece is of ftatuary marble. The cor- 
 nice is fupported by two whole length female figures, very 
 neatly executed. The tablet in the frize is virtue rewarded 
 with riches and honour, in baffb reli* vo. Among the paint- 
 ings in this room areOlympia and Orlando, by Annibal Car- 
 racci ; there is great exprefiion in thefe figure?, the attitudes 
 are ftrong,and the colouring fine ; the death of the Virgin, by 
 Raphael; Jupiter and Io, by Andrea Sacchi. ; a Magdalen, 
 *by Annibal Caracci ; an holy family, by Raphael; another 
 by Guido. 
 
 Thelibrary is thirty-fix feet long by twenty- four broad, and 
 twenty»two high. The cieling is Mofaic ; the chimney- 
 piece of ftatuary marble, Doric columns, with bafes to fup* 
 port the cornice. Among the paintings here are Adam and 
 Eve, by Carlo Lotti ; Lot and his daughter, by the fame 
 mafter; David interpreting to Nebuchadnezzar, by Rem- 
 brandt ; Rinaldo and Armida, by Nicholas Poufin; and An* 
 dromeda chained to the rock, by Guido. 
 
 The faloon is a very elegant room, a circle, forty~two feet 
 diameter, in which are fome good paintings and very fine fta- 
 tues. 
 
 The dining-room is finifhed with ftucco ; the cieling 
 painted, and very elegant. In the circles are Europe, Alia, 
 Africa, and America ; in the middle circle love embracing for- 
 tune; in the oblong fquare, the rourfeafons, exprefted by tri- 
 umphs of Venus, Apollo, Bacchus, and iEolus : the, whole 
 executed in a very neat and elegant manner. The chimney- 
 piece is of ftatuary marble. The glafles are elegant, and the 
 
 11 aba 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 flabs of Siena marble. Among the paintings in this room 
 are, Hagar and fthmael, by Cerri Ferri ; a landfcape by 
 Ciaude Lorrain ; and two landfcapes from Milton's Allegro, 
 by Zuccarelli. 
 
 In the family pavilion are an anti-room and a breakfaft 
 room, finiftied with frefco paintings and antique ornaments, 
 after the baths of Dioclefian. 
 
 There are feveral landfcapes in Lady Scarfdale*s d re fling- 
 room, and good paintings in fome of the other rooms. 
 
 The architecture of Keddleftone is light and pleafing, and 
 it is upon the whole a very noble houfe. The environs are 
 finifhed in a manner equal to the buildings. In the front of 
 the houfe, for a confiderable extent, is a fine winding river. 
 The lawns hang very well to the water, and are bounded by 
 woods of noble oaks, in a moft pleafing manner. The ap- 
 proach from Derby is through one of thefe woods, and the 
 road leaving it, you gain an oblique view of the houfe; but 
 entering another very fine wood it is loft ; and on coming out 
 of the dark grove, you break at once on the houfe, backed 
 with fpreading plantations, which have a noble effect. The 
 water winds before it through the vale in the moft agreeable 
 manner. You command both the reaches that form the 
 Hland, and move up to the houfe over a fine bridge of three 
 large arches. 
 
 From the garden front Lady Scarfdale has traced with 
 great tafte a pleafure ground — a winding lawn decorated with 
 trees, fhrubs, and great knots of wood, and a gravel walk 
 through it: it winds up the val6 between two hills to the 
 light ; is parted from the park on each fide by a funk fence ; 
 and as the fcattered trees and clumps are prettily varied, they 
 let in, as the walk rifes on the hill, very pidlurefque views of 
 the lake and the adjoining woods. It rifes to the fummit, 
 and there commands a very noble profpecl of all the adjacent 
 country. You look down into the park vale, with a large rivec 
 winding through it, accompanied with fpreading lawns, and 
 bounded by very noble woods of oak. Around the whole is 
 a vaft range of waving hills, broken into inclofures of a good 
 verdure, and hanging to the eye in various fweeps. 
 
 Formark Hall, near Swarton, fouth of the Trent, is the 
 feat of Sir Robert Burdett. It is a large oblong houfe ; the 
 Vol, I. U corners 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 corners projecting enough to form bow windows, and are 
 domed : in the centre of the principal front, is a portico fup- 
 ported by four Ionic pillars. It commands an extenfive prof- 
 peel over the vale through which the Trent runs ; and being 
 well united with fome fine woods, has a good effedl. The 
 back front, which is very light and handfome, looks on fome 
 hanging hills crowned by diftant plantations. 
 
 The hall is fifty-two feet long by twenty-fix broad. It 
 opens on one fide into the principal apartments ; confifting of 
 a dining-room, thirty feet long by twenty-one broad ; a 
 drawing-room, twenty-eight feet long by twenty-one broad ; 
 and another, thirty-four feet long by twenty-one broad : on 
 this fide of the hall is likewife the great flair-cafe. Thefe 
 rooms are handfomely fitted up, and the chimney-pieces are 
 yery elegant. On the other fide, the hall opens into the 
 common parlour, and that into the library. Here is a very 
 good picture of the holy family, of the fchool of Raphael ; 
 the colours are b illiant, the group good, and the hair of the 
 old man's head fine. Alfo fome Dutch pieces, the attitudes 
 in which are very natural. It communicates with the bed- 
 chamber, and that opens into the lady's drefling-room, united 
 on the other fide to the hall by an anti-room, adjoining to 
 which is another ft air cafe. The family apartment is there- 
 fore diftinet on one fide the hall, and perfectly well contrived 
 for convenience ; and the principal fuite of rooms on the 
 other. The height of all the floors fixteen feet : over it are 
 eight bedchambers, twenty-eight feetfquare, 
 
 The pleafure-ground is very beautiful. A winding walk 
 leads from the houfe through a wood of very fine oaks, down 
 a falling valley to the banks of the Trent, and turns up a cliff 
 of rock and wood, which is one of the greateft curiofities in. 
 the county 5 the river has no where io bold and romantic a 
 iliore. The rocks are perpendicular and of a good height, 
 and the intermixture of woods extremely romantic, hanging 
 over the cliffs in fome places in a ftriking manner, and airport 
 overfhadowing the water. 
 
 Beneath, at a great depth, the Trent makes a very bold 
 fweep; and winding through the valley, all richly inclofed, 
 and of a fine verdure, it appears at different fpots in the moft 
 pleafing manner. To the left you command a fine bend of it, 
 which leads to a village with a white church rifing from the 
 midft of it 1 and at fome diftance beyond, it agaiji is caught 
 
 among 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 155 
 
 among the Inclofures beautifully fringed with trees arid hedge- 
 rows. You alfo look back on the rocky fteep of wood, rifing 
 pi&urefquely from the water's edge. There are few views 
 finer than this ; from hence, the plantations unite with others 
 that conduit you again to the houfe. 
 
 Haddon Hall, in the High Peak, near Bakewell, was thd 
 ancient feat of the Vernons, one of whom, Sir George Ver- 
 non, who lived in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, was fo noted 
 for his hofpitality, that he was called The King of the 
 Peak. It went from him, by the marriage of his daughter to 
 the fon of the firft Earl of Rutland ; and is now the property 
 of the preient Duke of Rutland. 
 
 Radburn^ the feat of Colonel Pole, is very beautifully fituat- 
 ed on one of thehigheft grounds in the fouth part of Derby- 
 fhire ; commanding very extenfive views into Leicefterihire, 
 Warwickfliire, Staffordftiire, and Chefhire ; and from b~ing 
 well flickered with plantations, and very fine woods, it is 
 not at all bleak. The houfe is exceedingly convenient, 
 the apartments being remarkably well contrived and dif- 
 pofed. 
 
 At Oakover, near Afhborne, to the weft of Radburn, is 
 the feat of the late — — ■ Oakover, Efq; where is a very fa- 
 mous picture of the holy family, by Raphael, for which 
 fifteen hundred guineas have been refufed ; and what is re- 
 markable, it was found among fome old lumber, hid, as it is 
 fuppofed, during the civil wars. It is wonderfully fine ; 
 there is fuch a diffusion, grace, eafe, and elegance over the 
 whole piece, that it ftrikes the fpectator the moment he enters 
 the room. The grouping of the Virgin and the two chil- 
 dren is as happy as imagination can conceive ; the attitudes 
 furprifingly caught. The turn of the Virgin's head is ex* 
 tremely graceful. The eXpreflion of the boys, particularly 
 Chrift, is full of animation ; and though not natural to the 
 age, yet it is confident with the idea of the artift, and uncom- 
 monly pleafing. The warmth and tendernefs of the colour- 
 ing cannot be exceeded ; the mellow tints of the flefh are an 
 animated repreientation of life; and the general harmony of 
 the whole piece is admirable. There are alfo here, among 
 other good pictures, a painting of the unjuft fteward, by 
 
 U 2 Rubens; 
 
i 5 6 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 Rubens; Venus, a very good performance, by Titian ; and 
 alfo Ifidorus, Ignatius, and Francis Xavier, by the fame 
 matter. 
 
 About three miles from Oakover, is Ham, the feat of ■ 
 Port, Efq; the gardens of which are as romantic as any in 
 England. They confift of a frnall vale, bounded by very high 
 and rather fteep hills, totally covered with wood, forming a 
 complete amphitheatre. A rapid ftream wafhes the bottom 
 of them on one fide, and on the other is a walk, from whence 
 you command the whole fweep in a very great ftyle ; a nobler 
 range of wood, hanging almoft perpendicularly, cannot be 
 feen. The walk at the entrance of the valley winds up a 
 rocky cliff, from which you look down on the river in fome 
 places, and in others only hear the roar of it over broken 
 rocks ; at the end of the vale, on the fide of the water, it 
 commands the whole, and looks full on the entrance of the 
 ground, which feems quite blocked up by a diftant mountain 
 called Thorpe Cloudy of a very regular toned fhape, blunt at 
 top, which has a very fine effect. You look alfo upon a 
 bridge thrown over the river, which, perhaps, hurts the view: 
 it is frnall, and not at all in unifon with objects of fuch mag- 
 nificence as thefe vaft woods, and the hill which rifes To 
 boldly above it. There fhould be no bridge in fight, or it 
 fhould be a fingle lofty arch, to unite in effedi with the reft 
 of the fcene. — Under the rock in the gardens two rivers rife ; 
 one is called the Manifold, which runs under ground feven 
 miles : it boils up like a vaft fpring, and foon after falls into 
 ihe Dove. Chaff thrown in at Wefton rifes here. 
 
 The Earl of Ferrars has a feat at Shirley, in the hun- 
 dred of Appletree, in this county ; as alfo the Duke of Port- 
 land, at Bolfover Cajlle; the Duke, of Dsvonfhire, at Hard" 
 wide; the D Ae ot Dorfet, at Cr ox Hall; and Sir Henry 
 Harpur, at Calke, near Derby. 
 
 Little Chefter, now a frnall village upon the Derwenr, near 
 Derby, but on the other fide of the river, was anciently a 
 city. It was alfo a Roman ftation, as appears by a great 
 number of Roman coins, of different metals, that have been 
 found in it. When the water of ths Derwent happens to 
 
 be 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 157 
 
 be very clear, the foundation of a bridge may be feen, which 
 croffed it in this place. 
 
 Dale Abbey is a village near Derby, where there are ftill 
 the remains of a ftately monaftery, which was founded foou 
 after the Norman invafion. 
 
 Melborn^ a village about five or fix miles fouth-eaft of 
 Derby, was formerly a royal manfion, and had a caftie now 
 an heap of ruins, where John Duke of Bourbon, who was 
 taken prifoner at the battle of Agincourt, by King Henry 
 the Fifth, was confined nineteen years> and then releafed by 
 Henry the Sixth. 
 
 Burgh 9 a little village near Caftleton, was frequented by 
 the Romans, as appears from a caufeway leading from it to 
 Buxton baths, which appear to have been eminent in the 
 time of the Romans. 
 
 Matlock is a mod delightful village, and is much celebra* 
 ted for its bath, to which many people refort in fummer. It 
 is fituated near the river Derwent, and confifts of a large 
 range of elegant houfes, built in the moil uniform manner^ 
 withftables and out-houfes. The bath is divided into two 
 rooms, one for the gentlemen, and the other for the ladies, 
 and over them are very convenient rooms for the ufe of thofc 
 whofe diforders oblige them to bathe frequently. The ladies 
 bath is finely arched over with ftone ; and atone end of it 
 are feveral convenient rooms, with apartments for the fer- 
 vants. 
 
 The aflembly-room is on the right hand, and at the top is a 
 mufic-room, to which you afcend by a grand ftaircafe. 
 
 There is a fine terrace before the houfe, and near it a place 
 where the gentlemen divert themfelves in the evenings. — - 
 From this place there is a rocky (helf, defcending to the 
 river, which is extremely rapid, and runs with fuch a mur- 
 muring noife as fills the mind with a pleating admiration. 
 The perpendicular heightof this rock, called Matlock, is one 
 hundred and twenty yards; and on each fide of it is a row 
 of lof y elms, called The Lover s Walk. 
 
 The environs of Matlock Bath are equal, if not fuperior in 
 natural beauty to any of the moft finiihed places in the &«ng- 
 
 domt 
 
i 5 8 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 dom. They form a winding vale of about three mi!es 3 
 through which the river Derwent runs, whofe courfe is ex- 
 tremely various ; in fome places the breadth is confiderable, 
 the flream fmooth ; in others it breaks upon the rocks and 
 falls over the fragments, befides forming feveral fmall caf- 
 cades. The boundaries of the vale are cultivated hills on one 
 lide, and very bold rocks with pendant woods on the other. 
 The beft tour of the place is to crofs the river near the turn- 
 pike, and then take the winding path up the rock, which 
 leads you to the range of fields at the top, bounded this way 
 by the precipice, along which is a moft delightful walk; and 
 indeed it has been fuppofed to be the fineft natural terrace in 
 the world. At the top you may turn to the left till you 
 come to the projecting point, called Hag Rod. From this 
 fpot you have a perpendicular view down a vaft precipice to 
 the river, which here forms a fine fheet of water, fringed with 
 wood on the oppofite fide : it falls twice over the rocks, the 
 roar of which adds to the effcdl of the fcene. The valley 
 is fmall, and bounded immediately by the hills which rife 
 boldly from it, and are cut into enclofures, fome of them a 
 fine verdure, others Scattered with rocks, and fome full of 
 wood, the variety pleafing. This whole view is very noble. — 
 Advancing along the precipice, the views caught as you 
 move through the draggling branches of the wood which 
 grows on the edge of it, are very pifturefque ; in fome 
 places down on the water alone, in others into glens of wood, 
 dark and gloomy, with fpots here \nd there quite open, 
 which let in various chearful views of the dale and the cul- 
 tivated hills. Thtfr continue till you come to an elm with 
 divided branches, growing on the rocky edge of the preci- 
 pice : it forms a natural baliuftrade, over which you view a 
 very noble fcene. You command the river both ways, pre- 
 ferring feveral fheets of water, and falling four times over the 
 rocks. To ihe left, the fhore is hanging wood, from the 
 precipice down to the very water's edge ; but the rocks break 
 from it in feveral places, their heads beautifully fringed with 
 opm v.ood, as ir the projection was to exhibit a variety of 
 ihade on the background of the wood. At the top of the 
 io< k>>, snd quite jurrounded with wood, two fmall grafs in- 
 cisures are feen, divided by ftrag^ling trees ; nothing can 
 be more beautiful. The oppofite fide of the vale is formed 
 by many hanging inclolures 5 and the higher boundary a 
 
 great 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 great variety of hills cut into fields. To the right the fcene is 
 different; the edging of the waiter is a thick firipe of wood, 
 fo clofe that the trees feem to grow from the water ; they 
 form a dark {hade, under which the river is fmootb. Above 
 this wood appear fome houfes furrounded by feveral grafs 
 fields, beautifully (helving down among wild ground of 
 wood and rock. Above the whole is a very noble hill, bare, 
 but broken by rocky fpots. Advancing you come to a pro- 
 jecting point, edged with fmall afh-trees, from which you 
 have a fmooth reach of the river through a thick da^k wood— 
 a mod pleafing variation from the preceding fcenes : and 
 above it, to the right, a vaft perpendicular rock^ one hundred 
 and fifty feet high, rifing out of a dark wood; Ufelf quite 
 crowned with wood. The whole is very magnificent. — Turn* 
 ing another wave in the edge of the precipice, an opening 
 in the (hrubby wood prefents a reach of the river with a very 
 noble fhore of hanging wood ; the rock partly bare, but all 
 in a dark {hade of wood. A houfe or two, and a few inclo- 
 fures, enliven the fpot where the river is lcil; all clofely 
 bounded by the great hill. This view is a complete pic* 
 ture. — Proceeding further, the woody edging of the rocks is 
 fo thick as to prevent any views ; but from thence we are 
 led to a point of rock higher than any of the preceding; 
 which, being open, prefents a full view of all the wonders of 
 the valley. To the left, the river flows under a noble fhore 
 of hanging wood ; and above the whole a vaft range of in- 
 clofures, which rife one above another in the moft beautiful 
 manner. This point of view is high enough to command 
 likewife a new vale behind the precipice: this ridge of 
 rocky hill, (helving gently down, is in a fine waving vale of 
 cultivated fields of a pleafing verdure, and bounded by the fide 
 of an extended bare hill. This double view renders the fpot 
 amazingly fine. — A few yards further we turn to the point of 
 a very bold projection of the rock, which opens to new 
 fcenes ; the river is feen both to the right and left, beautifully 
 environed with thick woods. On the oppofite hill four grafs 
 inclofures of fine verdure are (kirced with trees, through the 
 branches of which you fee frefti fhades o£ green — a pleafing 
 contraft to the rocky wonders of the precipice. From hence 
 the wood excludes the view for fome diitarice, till you turn 
 on to a point with a feat, called Adam's Bench ; and as the 
 rock here projects very much into the dale, it confequently 
 
 gives 
 
160 DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 gives a full command of all the woody fteps you have pafTed ; 
 and a very noble fcene it is. The range of hanging wood t 
 almoft perpendicular from the lofty rocky points down to the 
 very water, is flriking : the bare rocks in fome places bulge 
 out, but never without a fkirt of open wood. The light 
 through branches fo growing from fuch lofty cliffs, has an 
 effe& truly pi£turefque. The immediate ftiore on the other 
 fide is wood, and higher up varied inclofures. On the whole, 
 a nobler union of wood and water is fcarcely to be imagined, 
 Leaving the precipice, a walk cut in the rock leads to the 
 bottom, where there is another made along the banks of the 
 river, but parted from it by a thick edging of wood, and 
 quite arched with trees- This lhaded walk leads to a bench 
 in view of a fmall cafcade on the oppofite fide of the river. 
 At a little diftance from hence is an high -rock, which is wor- 
 thy the attention of the curious traveller. The way to it is 
 an agreeable walk, which gives feveral views. The rock is 
 four hundred and fifty feet perpendicular ; the river direflly 
 below; a fine fmcoth ftream, giving a noble bend : oppofite, a 
 vaft fweep of hill, which rifes in the boldeft manner, with a 
 picturefque knot of inclofures in the middle of it : on one 
 fide a fteep ridge of rock, on the other a varied precipice of 
 reck and wood. You look down on the old bath, with a fine 
 front of wood, and many varied waves of enclofures bounded 
 by diftant hills. Further on, on the fame eminence, you 
 come to a point of bare rock, from which you look down a 
 precipice of five hundred feet abfolutely perpendicular. The 
 river breaking over fragments of the rocks, foars in a manner 
 that adds to the fublimity of the fcene. The (hore of wood- 
 is very noble* From hence, following the edge of the preci- 
 pice, you come to another point, from whence you haveadou* 
 ble view of the river beneath, as it were in another region. 
 To the left the great rock rifes from the bofom of a vaft wood 
 in the boldeft ftile imaginable. Sinking a little to the right 
 you have one of the nobleft views imaginable: the river 
 gives a fine bend through a narrow meadow of a beautiful 
 verdure; the boundaries of the vale ; woods hanging perpen- 
 dicularly, and fc&tcered with rocks. In the centre, a round 
 hill rifing out of wood in the midft of a vaft fweep of inclo- 
 fures, which hang to the eye in a moft pi&urefque manner, 
 has an effect aftcnifhingly fine. In one place a fteeple rifes 
 
 from 
 
DERBYSHIRE. 161 
 
 from a knot of wood ; and a variety of fcattered villages in 
 others unite to render thisfcene truly admirable.- 
 
 Crumford is a fmall village, near Matlock, which has * 
 very romantic appearance. 
 
 About three miles from Afhborne, is a valley called Dove* 
 dale^ which is a narrow winding glen among a variety of 
 hills and rocks, through which the river Dove takes its courfe 
 above two miles. It is bounded in a very romantic manner by 
 hills, rocks, and hanging woods, which are extremely vari- 
 ous, and the hills in particular of a very bold and ftriking 
 character ; they fpread on all fides in vaft fweeps, inexpref- 
 fibly magnificent, and are much more ftriking than anything 
 elfe in Dovedale. The rocks are in fome places very roman- 
 tic, rifmg in various fhapes from banks of hill and wood, an l 
 forming a wild afiemblage of really romantic obje&s ; but 
 they are much exceeded in magnitude by others in different 
 parts of the kingdom. The courfe of the river is various, 
 from a gentle current to great rapidity over broken rocks, 
 and in fome places falls, but not in a bold manner : the frag- 
 ments of rock in it, with branches of wood growing from it, 
 are truly romantic and pidiurefque. 
 
 There are alfo fome pleafing and romantic views in Monfal 
 Daky on the river Wye. 
 
 Vol., I f 
 
 X DEVONSHIRE. 
 
DEVONSHIRE 
 
 THIS county is bounded by the Englifh Channel on the 
 fouth, by the Briftol Channel on the north, by Corn- 
 wall on the weft, and by Somerfetfhire on the eaft. It is 
 about fixty-nine miles in length from fouth to north, fixty- 
 fix miles in breadth, from eaft to weft, and two hundred miles 
 in circumference. 
 
 The air of this county is mild in the vallies, and fharp on 
 the hills, but in general it is plea fa n't and healthy. The foil 
 is various ; in the weftern part it is coarfe, moorifh, and bar- 
 ren, and in many places a ftiff clay, which the water cannot 
 penetrate ; it is therefore bad for fheep, which are here not 
 only fmall, but much fubje£l to the rot, efpecially in wet 
 leafons. This part of the county is however happily adap- 
 ted to the breeding of fine oxen, which the Somerfetfhire dro- 
 vers purchafe in great numbers and fatten for the London 
 markets — In the northern parts of this county the foil is 
 dry, and abounds with downs, which afford excellent pafture 
 for fheep ; and which, being well dreiiea with Kr% r j 3ng, and 
 fand, yields good crops of corn, though not equal to thofe 
 produced in the middle parts of the county, where there is a 
 rich marie for manuring the ground, and in others a fertile 
 Tandy foil. — In the eaftern parts the foil is ftrong, of a deep 
 red, intermixed with loam, and produces great crops of corn, 
 and the beft peafe in the kingdom. — This county is famous 
 for producing good cyder; and there are a few villages north- 
 weft of Dartmouth, called South Horns ^ which are famous 
 for an excellent rough cyder, laid to be the bell: in the 
 kingdom, and fo much of the nature of wine, that the vint- 
 ners mix it with port. The foil here being a reddifh fand, 
 produces alfo the beft cabbages and carrots in the kingdom ; 
 nor does this part of our ifland fall fhort in pafture and mea- 
 dow ground, for the moft barren places are rendered fruitful 
 by a Ihell fand, fuch as that ufed in Cornwall $ and in places 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 163 
 
 remote from the fea, where this fand cannot eafily be got, the 
 turf, or furface of the ground, is fiiaved off and burnt to 
 afhes, which is a good fuccedaneum. This method of agri- 
 culture, ufed firft in Devonshire, has been praclifed in other 
 counties, where it is called Denjhiring the land, a name which 
 fufficiently denotes whence it was borrowed* — The fouthera 
 part of this county is by much the mofi fertile, and is there- 
 fore called The Garden of Devonjhire* 
 
 The principal rivers in this county are the Tamar and the 
 Ex. The courfe of the Tamar has been defcribed in the ac- 
 count of Cornwall. The Ex rifes in a barren tract of coun- 
 try called Exmdor, fituate partly in Devonfhire and partly in 
 Somerfetfhire, near the Briflol Channel, and runs direclly 
 fouth. After being joined by feveral IcTs confiderable rivers, 
 it pafTes through Exeter, and after a courfe of about nine 
 miles to the fouth-eaft, falls into the Engliih Channel in 4 
 very large ftream. There are in this county fo many confi- 
 derable rivers, befides the Tamar and the Ex, that there are in 
 it more than one hundred and fifty bridges. Of thefe rivers 
 the chief are the Tave, the Lad 5 the Oke, the Tame, the 
 Torridge, and the Dart. Thefe rivers produce plenty of 
 excellent falmon. 
 
 There are in this county mines of lead, tin, and filver. 
 There has indeed been very little tin dug up here of late times ; 
 yet in ihe reign of King John, when the tin coinage for 
 the county of Cornwall was farmed but at 661. i8s. q.d. a 
 year, that of Devonshire let at iool. and though the nlver 
 mines are not now regarded, yet in the year 1293, tne Y yielded 
 no lefs than three hundred and feventy pounds weight of fine 
 filver ; in the following year they produced five hundred and 
 twenty-one pounds weighr, and in the next year feven hun- 
 dred pounds, — Veins of loadflone are alfo found here, and 
 quarries of good ftone for building, and alfo of flate for cover- 
 ing houfes, of which laft article great quantities are exported. 
 
 The chief manufactures of this county are kerfies, ferges, 
 long-ells, Walloons, narrow cloths, and bone-lace, in which* 
 and in corn, cattle, wool, and fea fifli, the inhabitants carry on 
 a confiderable trade. 
 
 This county lies in the province of Canterbury, and dio- 
 cefeof Exeter, is divided into thirty-three hundreds, and 
 contains one city, thirty-feven market-towns, and three hun- 
 dred and ninety-four parifhes. Of the towns, Alhburton, Pl'y* 
 
 X 2 mouth, 
 
164 DEVONSHIRE 
 
 mouth, and Taviftock, are flannary towns; and there is a 
 fourth flannary town in this county, which is Chagford, a 
 fmall inconfiderable place, near Moreton. A flannary town is 
 one in which is kept a flannary court that determines the 
 differences concerning mines and among miners, or fuch as 
 work in digging or purifying tin* 
 
 C I T Y, 
 
 EXCESTER, or EXETER, is a famous and ancient city, 
 jthe metropolis and emporium of the weft of England : Its 
 name is a contraction of Excefler^ which fignifies a caftle on 
 the Ex* The Ex is the Ifca, mentioned by Ptolemy ; and 
 the city of Exeter is the Ifca Danmoniorum of the ancients. 
 This city was for fome time the feat of the Weft Saxon 
 Kings ; and the walls, which now inclofe it, were built by 
 King Athelftan, who incompaffed it alfo with a ditch. He 
 it was whofirft gave it the name of Exeter, (it having before 
 then been called Monkton, frorri the great number of monas- 
 teries in it) after driving the Britons that inhabited it into 
 Cornwall, 
 
 The Caflle of Rougemont 9 in this city, is fuppofed to have 
 been built by the Weft Saxon Kings, and to have been the 
 place of their refidence : It has its name from the red foil it 
 ftands in, where there is a pleafant profpecl, from a beautiful 
 terrace walk, with a double row of fine elms, of the Channel 
 ten miles to the fouth. The city js pleafantly fituated on a 
 Jittle hill among many hills ; and fo declines on the fouth and 
 weft, that be the ftreets ever fo foul, a (hower of rain makes 
 them fweet. 
 
 Exeter is one hundred and fevenfy-one miles from London, 
 and is governed by a mayor, twenty-four aldeimen, four bai- 
 liffs, a recorder, a chamberlain, a town clerk, a fheriff, and 
 four ftewards j and the magiftrates, at all public proceffions, 
 are attended by a fword-bearer, four ferjeants at mace, and as 
 many ftaff-bearers. There are thirteen city companies, each 
 of which is governed by officers, chofen yearly among them. 
 The mayor, or his officers, hear, try, and determine, all pleas 
 and civil caufes, with the advice of the recorder, aldermen, 
 and common council of the city ; but criminal and crown 
 caufes are determined by eight aldermen, wfta are juftices of 
 
 the 
 
DEVONSHIRE i6£ 
 
 the peace. This city anciently had a mint ; and as late a? 
 the reign of William the Third, filver was coined in it, which 
 is diftinguilhed by the letter E placed under the King's 
 
 Exeter is a biftiop's fee, and is one of the firft cities in 
 England, as well on account of its buildings and wealth, as 
 its extent, and the number of its inhabitants. Including its 
 fuburbs, it is two miles in circumference, and is encompafied 
 with a (lone wall, in good repair, and fortified wirh turrets. 
 It has fix gates, and four principal ftreets, all centering in the 
 middle of the city, which is therefore called Carfox, from the 
 old Norman word ghtatrevoiX) i.e. the four ways ; one of 
 thefeis called the High-ilreet, and is very fpacioifs and grand. 
 Here is a very handfome fione bridge over the the river Ex. 
 This city is well fupplied with water, brought from the 
 neighbourhood in pipes to feveral conduits $ and there is one 
 grand conduit, erected by William Duke, who was mayor of 
 this city in the reign of Edward the Fourth, — In the guild- 
 hail of this city are pi&ures of General Monk, and the Prin- 
 cefs Henrietta Maria, daughter to Charles the Firft, who was 
 born here. 
 
 There are fixteen churches, befides chapels, and five large 
 meeting-houfes, within the walls of this city, and four with* 
 out. The cathedral, which is dedicated to St. Peter, is a cu- 
 rious and magnificent fabric, and though it was above four 
 hundred years in building, it looks as uniform as if it had had 
 but one architect. It is vaulted throughout, is three hundred 
 and ninety feet long, and feventy-four broad : It has a ring 
 of ten bells, reckoned the largeft in England, one of them 
 weighing twelve thoufandfive hundred pounds, and is confi- 
 derably larger than Great Tom of Lincoln. It has a very 
 noble painted window, and alfo an organ, the greateir pipe of 
 which is fifteen inches in diameter. The Dean and chapter 
 have their houfes round the cathedral, which form a circus, 
 called the Clofe, becaufe it is inclofed, and feparated from the 
 city by walls and gates. Within this inclofure are two 
 churches for the fervice of the cathedral. The dtan, chap- 
 ter, chancellor, and treafurer, are the four dignitaries of this 
 cathedral ; and to thefe are added the four arch-deacons of 
 Exeter, Totnes, Barnftaple, and Cornwall, In this city and 
 its fuburbs are prifons for debtors and malefactors, a work- 
 houfe, almS'houfes, and charity-fchools - 7 and in 1741 an 
 
 hofpnal 
 
166 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 hofpita! was founded here, for the fick and lame poor of the 
 city and county, upon the model of the infirmaries of Lon- 
 (don and Wefiminfter. 
 
 About a mile and half without theEaft Gate of Exeter, is 
 the parifli of Heavy-Tree, fo called from the gallows eredted 
 there for malefactors, and near it is a burial place for them, 
 purchafed in the reign of Edward the Sixth, by the widow 
 of Mr. Tuckfield, fheriff of Exeter, who alfo left money to 
 procure them fhrouds* 
 
 This city fuffered greatly by the refentment of Henry 
 Courtney, Earl of Devonfhire. This nobleman, to revenge 
 the disappointment of fome fifh from the market, by weirs 
 choaked up the river below Exeter, which before brought up 
 ihips to the city walls, fo as entirely to obfirucl: the naviga- 
 tion of it. This injury has however in a great meafure been 
 remedied by the chearful contributions of the inhabitants, 
 ■under the fanciion of an act of parliament, for a channel is 
 cut here, which, by the contrivance of fluices and gates, ad- 
 mits the largeft barges, and verbis of one hundred and fifty 
 tons come up to the quay. 
 
 Such is the trade of this city in ferges, perpetuanas, long- 
 ells, druggets, kerfeys, and other woollen goods, that it is com- 
 puted at fix hundred thoufand pounds a year at leaft. There 
 is a ferge market kept weekly here, which is faid to be the 
 greateft in all England, next to the Brigg«market at Leeds, in 
 Yorkfhire ; and as much ferge is frequently bought up at this 
 market as amounts to fixty thoufand, eighty thoufand, or one 
 hundred thoufand pounds j for befides the vafl quantities of 
 woollen goods ufually fhipped for Portugal, Spain, and Italy, 
 the Dutch give large commilfions for buying up ferges, per- 
 petuanas, and other woollen fluffs, for Holiand and Ger- 
 many* 
 
 M A R K E T - T O W N S. 
 
 Plymouth was anciently called Sutton > u e. South Ttown^ 
 and it appears to have been divided into two parts, one called 
 South Prior, becaufe it belonged to the priory of Plympton, 
 and the other Sutton Vautort, becauie it belonged to the 
 family of that name : and in the time of the Saxon Hep- 
 tarchy, the whole town was known by the name of Tamer- 
 
 wonhe 
 
DEVONSHIRE, 167 
 
 worth. Plymouth derives its prefent name from its fituation 
 upon a fmali river called the Plym, which at a little diftance 
 falls into a bay of the Englifli Channel called Plymouth 
 Sound, on one fide of the town, as the Tamar does on the 
 other. 
 
 This town is two hundred and fifteen miles from London, 
 and is governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, twenty-four 
 common councilmen, a recorder, and a town clerk, whofe 
 place is very profitable, The mayor is elected thus : The 
 mayor in office, and the aldermen, chufe two perfons, and the 
 common council chufe other two ; thefe four perfons, whom 
 they call alfurers, appoint a jury cf thirty-fix perfons, 
 which jury elects the new mayor ; the officiating mayor, his 
 predeceffbr, and the two fenior aldermen, are juftices of the 
 peace, 
 
 Plymouth, from a fmall fifhing town, is become the largefl 
 in the county, and is faid to contain near as many inhabitants 
 as the city of Exeter. Its port, which confifts of two har- 
 bours capable of containing a thoufand fail, has rendered it 
 one of the chief magazines in England. It is defended by 
 feveral forts, mounted with near i hree hundred guns, and par- 
 ticularly by a frrong citadel, ere ^d in the reign of Charles 
 the Second, before the mouth of the harbour. This citadel, 
 which ftands oppofite to St. Nicholas-Ifland. (which is within 
 the circuit of its walls) include at leaft two acres of ground, 
 has five regular baftions, contains a large magazine cf ftores, 
 and mounts one hundred and fifty fix guns. The inlet of the 
 fea, which runs feme miles up the country, at the mouth of 
 the Tamar, is called the Hamoaze 1 and that which receives 
 the Plym is called Catwater. About two miles up the Ha- 
 moaze are two docks, one wet and the other dry, with a bafon. 
 two hundred feet fquare ; they are \ vwn out of a mine of 
 Hate, and lined with Portland ftone. The dry dock is form- 
 ed after the model of a firit rate man of war ; and the wet 
 dock will contain five firft rates. The docks and bafon were 
 conftrydled in the reign of William the ^Third ; and in this 
 place there are conveniencies of all kinds for building and re- 
 pairing fhips ; and the whole forms as complete, though 
 not fo large an arfena!,as any in the kingdom. The (hips 
 that are homew xC S ound generally put into this port 
 for pilots to carry rilsm up si; z Channel s and in time of 
 
 war, 
 
168 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 war, the convoys for fhips outward bound, generally rendez* 
 vous here. 
 
 Here are two handfome,Iarge,and well-built parifh churches, 
 one dedicated to St. Andrew, and the other to the memory of 
 Charles the Firft, which, though there are feveral meeting- 
 houfes, have each fo large a cure of fouls, that the parifti 
 clerks, formerly, took deacon's orders to enable them to per- 
 form the facerdotal funclions ; the profits of the pews go to 
 the poor— Here is a charity-fchooi, four hofpitals, and a 
 workhoufe, in all which above one hundred poor children are 
 cloathed, fed, and taught. Colonel Jory gave a charity to 
 one of the hofpitals for twelve poor widows; hegavealfoa 
 mace worth one hundred and twenty pounds, to be carried be- 
 fore the mayor; likewife fix good bells to Charles's church, 
 valued at five hundred pounds. 
 
 This town, till Queen Elizabeth's time, fuffered great 
 inconveniencies from the want of frefh water, but is now 
 well fupplied by a fpring feven miles off ; the water of which 
 was brought hither at the expence of Sir Francis Drake, 
 who was a native of this place* — The town has a cuftom- 
 houfe, and there is alfo a good pilchard fifhery on the coaft, 
 and a confiderable trade to the Streights and Weft Indies. 
 
 In the entrance of Plymouth Sound there is a rock, called 
 Edyjione Kock, which is covered at high water, and on which 
 a light-houfe was built by one Winftanley, in 1696. This 
 light-houfe was thrown down by a hurricane that happened 
 in 1703 ; and the ingenious builder, with feveral other perfons 
 that were in it, perifhed in the ruins. Another light-houfe 
 however was erected in purfuance of an a£i of parliament of 
 the fifth of Queen Anne; that too has been deftroyedj but 
 another has fince been ereiied, under the infpeflion of Mr» 
 Smeaton. 
 
 Between Plymouth and the fea, there is a hill called The 
 Hoe 9 that has a delightful plain upon the top, from which 
 there is apleafant profpedi all round, and on which there is a 
 curious compafs for the ufe of mariners. 
 
 Dartmouth is fo called from its fituation at the mouth of 
 the river Dart. It is two hundred and three miles from 
 London, and is a corporation, originally formed out of three 
 diftinfl: towns, Dartmouth, Clifton, and Hardnefs $ it had 
 the name of Clifton from the cliffs on which mo ft of the 
 
 houfes 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 169 
 
 houfes were built, and out of which many of them were dug. 
 It is governed by a mayor, twelve matters or magiftrates, 
 twelve common*councilmen, a recorder, two bailiffs, a town- 
 clerk, and high-fteward. The town-clerk and high-fteward 
 are chofen by the mayor and magiftrates, who have a power 
 alfo to make freemen ; the mayor, bailiffs and a coroner, are 
 chofen yearly. Here is a court of feflion, and a water bailiff- 
 wick court, holden by a leafe from the dutchyof Cornwall 
 for three lives, and for which fourteen pounds a year chief 
 rent is paid. 
 
 This town, which is a mile long, {lands on the fide of a 
 craggy hill, a fituation which makes the ftreets very irregular, 
 riling in forne places one above another, yet the houfes are 
 generally very high. Here are three churches, befides a large 
 diflenting meeting-houfe ; but the mother-church is at a vil- 
 lage called Townjialy about three quarters of a mile from 
 Dartmouth. This church ftands on a hill, and the tower of 
 it, which is fixty-nine feet high, is a fea mark. 
 
 Dartmouth has a harbour, where five hundred fail of (hips 
 may ride fafe in a bafon ; it is defended by three caftles, be- 
 fides forts and block-houfes, and its entrance, may uponoc- 
 calion, be fhut up by a chain. Here is a large quay, and a 
 fpacious ftreet before it, inhabited chiefly by merchants, who 
 carry on a confiderabie trade to Portugal and the plantations, 
 but efpecially to Newfoundland, and from thence to Italy 
 with fi(h. Here alfo is the greateil pilchard fifliery of any 
 part of the weft, except Falmouth, in Cornwall ; and the 
 Ihipping and trade of this town in general were the moft con- 
 fiderabie of any in the county, except Exeter, till Plymouth's 
 increafe in both. — By a grant of Edward the Third the bur- 
 geiTes of this town are toll free throughout all England ; 
 and in the reign of Richard the Second they obtained the ex- 
 clufive right of exporting tin. 
 
 Dartmouth Cajlle is very ancient; for there has been a 
 chapel in it ever iince the time of Edward the Third, and be- 
 longs to Stoke-Fieming church, which is two miles off ; 
 but the ftone tower and fjpire were built by the inhabitants 
 not many years ago. 
 
 Bideford, or Bediford, i. e* by the ford % is thus called 
 from its fituation on the river Torridge, which a little far- 
 ther north joins the river Taw, and falls with ii into that 
 
 Vol. I. Y part 
 
DEVONSHIRE, 
 
 part of the Britifh Channel called Barnjlaple Bay. It Is 
 two hundred and two miles from London, and is governed by 
 a mayor and aldermen, a recorder, a town-clerk, with ferjeants 
 and other officers. It has a particular court, in which civil 
 actions of any fort are brought and determined for any fum. 
 It is a clean, well built, and populous town, and has aftreet 
 three quarters of a mile long, running parallel to the river, 
 with a noble quay and cuftom-houfe, where (hips can load 
 and unload, in the very heart of the town. Here is alfo ano- 
 ther (Ireet of confiderable length, and as broad as the High- 
 ftreet of Exeter, with good buildings, inhabited by wealthy 
 merchants. This town has a large church and an handfome 
 meetinghoufe; it has alfo a very fine bridge over the 
 Torridge, which was built in the fourteenth century, oa 
 twenty-four beautiful and (lately Gothic arches 5 the foun- 
 dation is ftill firm, yet it (hakes at the flighted ftep of a horfe. 
 The merchants of this town fend fleets yearlv to the Weft 
 Indies, Virginia, Newfoundland, and Ireland, from whence 
 it is an eftablifhed port for wool, as well as Barnftaple. Forty 
 or fifty fail belonging to this port have been yearly employed 
 to bring cod from Newfoundland, and other fleets art fent to 
 Liverpool and Warrington for rock fait, which is diflblved 
 here by fea water into brine, and then boiled up into a new 
 fait : this is juftly called fait uponfalt y and is ufed in curing 
 herrings, which are taken up here in great quantities, 
 
 Honiton (lands near a fmall river called the Ctter, at the 
 diftance of one hundred and fifty-five miles from London, and 
 in the road from London to Exeter, It is an ancient borough, 
 by prescription, and is governed by a portreeve, who is 
 chofen yearly at the court of the lord of the manor, it is 
 fituated in the beft and moft pleafant part of the whole 
 county, abounding with corn and pafture, and commanding 
 a view of the adjacent country, which is perhaps the molt 
 beautiful landfcape in the world. It has a bridge over the 
 Otter, and is a populous well built town, confifting chiefly 
 of one long (Ireet, remarkably well paved with pebbles, 
 through which runs a fmall channel of clear water, with a 
 little fquare dipping place at every door. The parifh church 
 {lands half a mile above the town upon a hill, which was for- 
 merly difficult and troublefome to afcend on foot, fo that the 
 gentry ufed to go to church on horfcback or in coaches - 9 and 
 o (tables 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 171 
 
 frables were built near the church to accommodate them ; but 
 in 1743, a new chapel was built in this town. A charity 
 ichool for thirty boys was opened here at Chriftmas 171 3 ; 
 and about a quarter of a mile out of town, on the eaft fide 
 of the road to Exeter, there is an hofpita! with a handfome 
 chapel, which was founded and endowed for four lepers, by 
 one Thomas Chard, an abbot. The governor and patients 
 are put in by the rector, church-wardens, and overfeers of 
 theparifh; and by a regulation made in 1642, other poor 
 perfons are admitted as well as lepers. Thefirfr ferge manu- 
 facture in Devonfliire was in this town, but it is now much 
 employed in the manufacture of lace, which is made broader 
 here than any where elfe in England, and of which great 
 quantities are fent to London. A dreadful fire happened here 
 on the 19th of July, 1747, by which three fourths of the 
 town was confumed, and damage done to the value of forty* 
 three thoufand pounds, 
 
 Tiverton, or Twyford Town, is fo called from its 
 fituation near two fords, which were formerly at this place, 
 oneover the riverEx,and the other over a fmall rivercalled the 
 Loman, where there are now two ftone bridges. It is fituated 
 between thefe two rivers, and near their conflux, and is one 
 hundred and fixty-fix miles from London, It is governed 
 by a mayor, twelve principal burgelies, and twelve inferior 
 burgeffes or affiftants, a recorder, and a clerk of the peace. 
 The mayor, by its charter of incorporation, granted by King 
 James the Firft, is gaol-keeper, and the gaol delivery is to be 
 holden before him and the recorder. Here is a church, 
 wherein there was formerly a chapel, built by the Earls of 
 Devonfliire, for their burial place. In this chapel, which is 
 now demolished, there was a monument erected for Edward 
 Courtney, Earl of Devonfliire, and his Countefs, with their 
 effigies in alabafter. It was richly gilded and infcribed as 
 follows : 
 
 " Ho, ho, who lies here ? 
 
 €e 'Tis I, the good Earl of Devonfliire, 
 
 " With Kate, my wife, to me full dear ; 
 
 *' We hVd together 55 year. 
 
 " That we fpent, we had ; 
 
 " That we left, we loft ; 
 
 " That we gave, we have." 
 
 Y 2 Here 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 Here is alfo a chapel, which by an act of parliament paffed in 
 1733, ismade a perpetual cure; but the great ornament and 
 advantage of this town is a noble large free-fchool, founded by 
 Mr, Peter Blundel, a clothier, and native of this place, who 
 gave two thoufand pounds for lands to maintain fix fcholars 
 z\ Oxford and Cambridge, to be elected from this fchool ; 
 they are now eight, and placed at Baliol college in Oxford, 
 and at Sidney college in Cambridge : he alfo left an allowance 
 for a yearly feaft there on St. Peter's day, in remembrance of 
 him. Here are alfo two alms- houfes. There is in this place 
 the greateft woollen manufacture in the county, except that 
 of Exeter, and, except that city, it is the iargeft, if not the 
 moft populous, of all the inland towns in Devonftiire. Ti- 
 verton is remarkable for its fufferings by fire: on the 3d of 
 April, 1598, the market day, a fire broke out, which burnt 
 fo furioufly, that the whole town, confifting of more than fix 
 hundred houfes, was confumed, and nothing but the church 
 and two alnGS-houfes efcaped. It was fcarcely rebuilt, when 
 it was again totally deftroyed by fire on the 5th of Auguft, 
 1612; and on the 5th of June, 173 1, another terrible fire 
 happened here, which deftroyed two hundred of the bed 
 houfes in the place, and moft of the manufactures. The 
 lofs upon this occafion was computed at one hundred and 
 fifty thoufand pounds ; and the year following the parliament 
 paffed an a£t for re-building the town, which a£t alfo eftab- 
 liflied fome ufeful regulations for the prevention of future 
 fires. 
 
 Barnstaple is a name compounded of the British word 
 bar % which fignifies the mouth of a river , and the Saxon word 
 Jlap!e y which denotes # mart of trade. It is one hundred and 
 ninety three miles from London, and is pleafantly fituated 
 among hills, in the form of a femi-circle, a river called the 
 TaWy being the chord of the arch. It had walls formerly, 
 with a caftle, and enjoyed the liberties of a city 5 but having 
 loft thofe privileges, it was incorporated by a charter of 
 Queen Mary, and is governed by a n^ayor, twenty-four 
 common-coupcilmen, of whom two are aldermen, a high- 
 fteward, a recorder, a deputy recorder, and other officers. 
 The ftreets are clean and weil paved, and the houfes chiefly of 
 ftone. it has a fair ftone bridge over the river Taw of fix- 
 teei] arches^ and a paper mill* Here are tvYo charity-fchools* 
 
 Barnftapis 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 173 
 
 Barnftaple had formerly a haven, in which the water became 
 at lad fo (hallow, though at fpring tides the neighbouring 
 fields are overflowed, that moll of the trade removed to Bide- 
 ford ; yet it has dill fome merchants, and a confiderable traffic 
 to America and to Ireland, from whence it is an edablifhed 
 port for landing wool ; it carries on alfo a confiderable trade 
 with the ferge- makers of Tiverton and Exeter, who come up 
 hither to buy (had-fi£h, wool, and yarn. 
 
 Comb-Martin* lies upon the Britiih Channel, at the 
 diftance of one hundred and eighty-one miles from London. 
 Here is a cove for landing of boats. ~ The adjacent foil not 
 only produces plenty of the bed hemp in the country, but has 
 been famous for mines of tin and lead. The lead mines, in 
 the reign of King Edward the Fird, being found to have fome 
 veins of filver, three hundred and thirty-feven men were 
 brought from Derby to work them, and the produce was of 
 great fervice to Edward the Third in his war with France. 
 Neyerthelefs they were neglected till Queen Elizabeth's reign, 
 when Sir Beavis Bulmer, a virtuofo in refining metals, had 
 them wrought, and extracted great quantities of filver from 
 them, of which he caufed two cups to be made, and prefented 
 one to the Earl of Bath, and the other, probably the lead, 
 weighing one hundred and thirty-feven ounces, to Sir Richard 
 Martin, lord mayor of London. A new adit was dug here 
 fome years ago, which coft five thoufand pounds, but the 
 mines have not been wrought (ince« 
 
 Plympton derives its name from the river Ply m. It is 
 fituated upon a fmall dream that runs into that river, and is 
 called Plympton Maurice, or EarVs Plympton, to didinguifh 
 it from Plympton St. Mary, a village half a mile dittant. 
 It is two hundred and nine miles from London, and was in- 
 corporated in Queen Elizabeth's reign, under a mayor, re- 
 corder, eight aldermen or principal burgefles, who are called 
 common-council-men, a bailiff, and town-clerk. This is a 
 ftannary tovvn : it is populous, but confifts chiefly of two dreets 
 with ordinary buildings. It has one of the bed free-fchools 
 in the county, being endowed with lands to the amount of 
 one hundred pounds a year, and built on done pillars in 1664, 
 fey Sir John Maynard, one of the trudees of Elizeus Hele, 
 Efqi of Camwood, near Plymouth, who gave one thoufand 
 
174 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 five hundred pounds a year to fuch ufes. Near the weft end 
 of this town is the guildhall, (landing alfo on fome pillars, 
 where the corn market is kept. 
 
 Ashburton is one hundred and ninety miles from Lon- 
 don. It is an ancient borough by prescription, and is go- 
 verned by a chief magi (Irate, called a portreeve, who is chofen 
 yearly at the courts of the lords of the manor, and is the re- 
 turning officer at eleflions for members in parliament. This 
 town has only one good ftreet, but that is of confiderable 
 length. It has, however, a handfome church, in the form 
 of a cathedral, adorned with a tower of ninety-one feet high, 
 on which is a fpire of lead. This church has a large chan- 
 cel, with feveral flails in it, as in collegiate churches. It has 
 alfo a chapel, which is ufed for a fchool, as well as for the 
 parifh meetings, and the elections of its members in parlia- 
 ment. Afhburton ftands upon the river Dart, and is a great 
 thoroughfare in the road from London to the Land's End in 
 Cornwall, being about half way between Exeter and Ply- 
 mouth. This is a ftannary town, and is remarkable for its 
 mines of tin and copper, and a manufacture of ferge. 
 
 Ilfordcombe, or Ilfracomb, is fituated on the Britifh 
 Channel, and is one hundred and eighty-fix miles from 
 London. It is governed by a mayor, bailiffs, and other offi- 
 cers. It is a rich populous town, and confifts chiefly of one 
 fireet of fcattered houfes, almofta mile long. It is noted for 
 maintaining conftant lights to direct fhips at fea ; for its great 
 conveniencies for building and repairing fhips, and for a har- 
 bour and pier, which afford fee u re flicker to fhips from Ire- 
 land, when it would be extremely dangerous for them to run 
 into the mouth of the Taw, commonly known by the name 
 of Barnftaple Bay, which is the next harbour. This ad- 
 vantage of the harbour has induced the merchants of Barn- 
 ftaple to tranfafl: much of their bufinefs here, where the 
 trade, and particularly the herring fifhery, is very confiderable. 
 In 1731, the harbour and pier being much decayed by length 
 of time, and the violence 'of the feas, an adl: of parliament 
 paffed for repairing ar»d enlarging them. 
 
 Axmister, or Axminster, derives its name partly from 
 its fituation upon the river Axe, and partly from a minder, 
 
 eftablifhed 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 eftablimed in this place by King Athelftan, for feven priefts, 
 to pray for the departed fouls of fome pe fons buried here, 
 who were killed in his army, when he defeated the Danes in 
 a bloody battle on a field in this neighbourhood, which is flill 
 called King's Field. It is one hundred and forty five miles 
 from London, and lies on the borders of Somerfetfhire and 
 Dorfetfhire, in the road to Exeter. It is an healthy, clean, 
 confiderable town ; it carries on a fmall trade in kerfey>, 
 druggets, and other articles of the woollen manufaclure ; it 
 is famous alfofor its excellent carpets, confiderable manufac- 
 tories of which are carried on this town ; and is well fupplied 
 with fifh from Lyme, Axmouth, and feveral other neigh- 
 bouring coaft towns. 
 
 Okehampton, vulgarly called OcfCiNGTON, had its 
 name from its fituation upon the river Oke, It is fituated 
 almoft a mile from its parifh church, which {lands near the 
 ruins of a caftle built by Bald win de Briory, on the fummit 
 of a hill. It is one hundred and ninety-three miles from 
 London, and is an ancient borough governed by a mayor, 
 eight capital burgefles, and as many affiftants, out of whom 
 the burgefles are annually chofen, a recorder, a juftice, and a 
 town-clerk. The mayor has a great (hare in the choice of 
 every fucceeding mayor, becaufe he nominates two of the 
 bureeffes, one of whom is chofen by other burgefles and their 
 affiftants. Here is a town-hall and a chapel, but both are 
 mean buildings ; though in the reign of James the Firft, 
 one Trelawney added a little neat tower to the chapel, which 
 has given it the form of a church. The chief manufacture 
 carried on here is ferges ; but the principal fupport of the 
 place is faid to be the road between Launcefton, in Corn wall, 
 and Crediton,in this county, for the beft houfes in the place 
 are inns. 
 
 Hartland {lands upon a promontory that runs out far 
 into the fea. It is the extreme part of the county to the 
 north-weft, and is called Hartland Point. It is two hundred 
 and eighteen miles from London, and is a great refort not 
 only of people from Cornwall, but of the fifhing boats of 
 Barnftaple, Bideford, and other towns upon the coaft : thefe 
 veflels lie hereunder the rocks, which flielter them from the 
 fouth-eaft and fouth-weft winds, when thefe winds blow too 
 
 hard 
 
176 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 hard for them to venture to fea. Hartland carries on a con- 
 siderable herring fifhery, and the cod taken here is the beft in 
 the world, though it is not near fo plentiful here as on the 
 banks of Newfoundland. A pier has been erecled here to 
 prevent the breaking in of the fea with violence. Here is a 
 good quay, the defcent to which is very fteep, being beaten 
 out of the cliffs. 
 
 Crediton, vulgarly called Kirton, had its name from 
 the river Creden, on which it ftands. In the time of the 
 Saxons it was the fee of a biihop, which was afterwards 
 , tranflated to Exeter ; but the cathedral is ftill ftanding, and 
 is a magnificent ftruclu re, two hundred feet in length. In 
 this church there is a monument of one of its bifhops ; the 
 grave-ftone of which, not a century ago, had a brafs fillet 
 round it, infcribed as follows : 
 
 " Quifquis es> qui iranfieris } J}a 9 per lege flora ; 
 
 " $ urn quod eris,fueram quod es ; pre me>precor> ora" 
 
 It is one hundred and feventy-fix miles from London, and in 
 the reign of Edward theFirft it fent members to a parliament 
 at Carlifle, Its chief manufacture is fcrge, and it has a charity- 
 fchooL On Auguft 14, 1743, a fire broke out here, which 
 in lefs than ten hours con fumed four hundred and fixty 
 dwelling-houfes, befides the market-houfe, wool-chambers, 
 and other public buildings ; eighteen perfons periflied in the 
 flames, more than twothoufand were reduced to the molt de- 
 plorable diftrefs ; and the damages in houfes and goods not 
 infured, were computed at fixty thoufand pounds. 
 
 Totnes Hands upon the river Dart, and is one hundred 
 and ninety-five miles from London, it is a borough by pre- 
 scription, and the nioft ancient in the county; King John 
 made it a corporation, confiding of fourteen burgomafters, of 
 which one is a mayor, who, with his predeceflbr, and the re- 
 corder, are juftices of the peace ; there are twenty common- 
 council-men, and a few freemen elected by the mayor and 
 mafters. The town confifts chiefly of one broad ftreet, three 
 quarters of a mile long, and ftands on the fide of a rocky 
 hill, declining to the river. It was formerly walled in, and 
 had four gates, but only the fouth gate, and fome fmall parts 
 of the reft, are now remaining* Here is a fpacious church, 
 
 with 
 
DEVONSHIRE* 
 
 with a fine tower and four pinnacles, each ninety feet high, 
 a town-hall, and a fchool- houfe. The river, over which 
 there is a fine {rone bridge, fupplics the inhabitants with, 
 trout and other fifh in great plenty. Its chief trade is the 
 woollen manufacture. It had formerly a caftle, the outer 
 walls of which are (till entire, except the battlements. The 
 famous Roman fofleway, which began here, though one 
 thoufand four hundred years old, is ftill vifible. They catch 
 falmon peel here with a fpaniel trained up for that purpofe, 
 which drives them into a fiiove net. A man will fometimes 
 take up twenty falmon at a time, from fourteen to twenty- 
 fix inches long, which they fell remarkably cheap. — Totnes 
 is remarkable for the peculiarity of its loyal addrefs to King 
 George the Firft, upon the union of Charles the Sixth, 
 emperor of Germany, with the King of Spain, by the treaty 
 of Vienna ; the good people of this corporation aflured his 
 Majefty, that they were ready to grant him not only a land* 
 tax of four fhillings in the pound, but, if his fervice required 
 it, to give him the fixteen (hillings that remained. 
 
 Moulton. There are two places of this name, fituated 
 upon a fmall river called t\\h MouU which falls into the Paw, 
 and from whence they derive their name. They are dif- 
 tinguifhed by the names of North and South Moulton. The 
 latter is a very neat and populous market-town, and is re- 
 markable for its large fairs for cattle, &c. It is one hundred 
 and eighty-two miles from London, and in the reign of King 
 Edward the Firft fent members to parliament. It is governed 
 by a mayor, eighteen capital burgefles, a recorder, a town- 
 clerk, and two ferjeants at mace. It has a noble fpacious 
 church, a charity-fcbool, and a free-fchool, which was b jilc 
 and endowed in 1684, by a native of this town, who was 
 a merchant of London. The chief manufactures here are 
 ferges, fhalloons, and felts. 
 
 Tcrrington, called Great Torrlngton % to diftinguifli it 
 from another Torrington that has not a market, is fituated 
 on the declivity of a hill, on the banks of the river Torndge, 
 from which it had its name, and was originally called Torridge 
 Toten. It is one hundred and ninety-fix miles from London, 
 and is governed by a mayor, eight aldermen, and fixteen bur- 
 gefles. The petty fefiions and other meetings are generalfy 
 
 Vol. I. Z helci 
 
i 7 8 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 held here by tire gentlemen of the county. It has two 
 churches, one of which has a library belonging to it. Here 
 are aims- fooufes, with right of commonage for the poor, and a 
 charity-fchool. This town has a ftone bridge over the river 
 Torridge; it is rich and populous, and carries on a great 
 trade to Ireland, and other places to the weft. 
 
 Eereaiston, h iltuated on a fmall river called the Tave, 
 and is two hundred and twelve miles from London, It is an 
 ancient borough by prefcription, and is governed by a por- 
 treeve* All perfons who pay three-pence or more a year to 
 the lord of the manor, as an acknowledgement for land held 
 in the borough, are called burgage holders, and are the only 
 voters for reprefentatives of this borough in parliament 5 and 
 the portreeve, who is chofen yearly at the court of the lord of 
 the manor, returns them. This place is in the parilh of 
 Bere Ferris, from the church of which it lies near two miles* 
 
 Cttery. There arc three towns of this name, which 
 they derive from their fituation on a fmall river called the 
 Otter. They are diftinguiihed by the refpeclive names of 
 Ottery St. Mary, Ottery-Mohuns, and Up-Ottery, Ottery Su 
 Mary is the market- town, and is fituated on the left hand 
 of the road from Honiton to Exeter ; and had its name from 
 having formerly belonged to St. Mary's church,, in Roan, in 
 France. It is a large town, and is diftant from London onz 
 hundred and fixty miles. 
 
 Tavistock, is fo called from its fituation on the banks 
 of the Tave. it is two hundred and five miles fiorn London, 
 and is a borough by prefcription, governed by a portreeve^ 
 who is chofen yearly by twenty- fv-or freeholders, at the court 
 of the lord of rhe manor. It is a ftannary town, large and 
 well built, with a hand feme parifh church covered with Hate, 
 It has two alms-houfe; and is fupplied by the l ave with 
 plenty of fifh. An abbey was built here in 96 J, of which 
 there are ft'ill fome remains to be ieen. Here is a chalybeate 
 mineral water. 
 
 SlDMOUTK is thus called from its fituation at the mouth of 
 a fmall river called the Side* whjch flows into ihe * nglifh 
 •Channel, * It is one hunched and fixty-two miks from Lon- 
 
 4oa % 
 
DEVONSHIRE* 
 
 don, and was formerly a confiderable port, but the harbour is 
 now fo choaked up with fand, that no fliips of burthen can 
 get in, yet it remains one of the chief fifher towns in the 
 county, and fupplies the eaftern parts of it with much pro- 
 vifion. It is now much frequented as a bathing place. 
 
 Tops ham is cn-e hundred and feventy-three miles from 
 London, and five from Exeter, of which it is the port. It 
 is almoft encompalTed with the river Ex, and a rivulet called 
 the Clift. Both the horfe road and foot way from Exeter 
 to this town being very pleafant, many people refort thither 
 for pleafure as well as buiinefs* 
 
 Bamptoist, or Baunton, as it is commonly called, both 
 being corruptions of Bathampton, ftands in a bottom, en- 
 compafled v/ith bills, on a branch of the river Ex, and is 
 one hundred and fixty-feven miles from London, Ic is go- 
 verned by a portreeve, and formerly fent members to par* 
 liament. 
 
 Columbton, or, as it is generally, though corruptly fpelt, 
 Cullompton^ derives its name from a frnali river called the 
 Columby on which it is fituated. It is one hundred and fixty- 
 four miles from London. The church here has a curious and 
 richly gilded rood loft, which is ftill preferved as an orna- 
 ment, though the image worfhipped in the days pf popery is 
 removed. This town is the beft on the river Colurnb, and 
 has a confiderable woollen manufactory. 
 
 Kingsbridge is fituated on the river Salcombe, and is 
 two hundred and feventeen miles from London. It is a pretty 
 town, and pleafantly fituated. It has a harbour for boats, 
 and a bridge over the Salcombe to Dodbrook; it has alfo a 
 free-fchooi, founded and endowed by Mr. Crifp in, of Exeter. 
 
 Dodbrook is fituated on the river Salcombe, and is two 
 hundred and eighteen miles from London. Here is a charity- 
 fchool. This place is remarkable for paying the parfoa 
 tythe of a liquor called white ale* 
 
 Chudleigh is near a fmall river called the Teign 9 and is 
 diftant from London one hundred and eighty-one miles. 
 
 Z Z MODBURY 
 
i8o D E V O N S H I R E 
 
 MoDBURY is two hundred and eight miles from London. 
 In the reign of Edward the Firft it fent members to par- 
 liament, and is now only remarkable for its ale, 
 
 Newton-Bushel is a large town fituated on the river 
 Teign, at the diftance of one hundred and eighty-feven miles 
 from London. 
 
 Bowe is thought to have taken its name from its crooked 
 figure. It is one hundred and eighty-nine miles from Lon- 
 don, and the court of the duchy of Lancafter is commonly 
 kept here, 
 
 Chulmleigh is fituated upon the river Taw, about half 
 way between Exeter and Barnftaple, and is diftant from Lon- 
 don one hundred and ninety miles. 
 
 Brent is fituated one hundred and ninety-nine miles from 
 London. 
 
 Cijlliton is fituated feventeen miles fouth*eaft of Exeter, 
 and one hundred and fifty-four weft of London. 
 
 Hatherley is fituated on a branch of the river Tor- 
 ridge, next to its conflux with the Oke, at the diftance of 
 fwo hundred miles from London. 
 
 H0ULSWOR.THY is fituated on the river Tamar, and on 
 the borders of Cornwall, at the diftance of two hundred and 
 fifteen miles from London. 
 
 Moretcn, or Mqretqn-Hampst ed, is fituated on the 
 ikirts of Dartmoor Foreft, and is one hundred and eighty-two 
 miles from London. 
 
 SHEPWASHis two hundred and nine miles from London. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Ford-Abbey^ the feat of the late Francis Gwyn, Efq; 
 was originally the feat of Adeji^a, daughter of Baldwin, of 
 
 the 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 181 
 
 the family of Brionis, and given by her to fome Ciftertian 
 monks, and by this means the abbey was founded. In time 
 it came to the Prideaux baronets, in whofe family it conti- 
 nued till the male ifTue failed, when by the marriage of a 
 daughter to Mr. Gwyn, it became the feat of that gentleman. 
 
 Three miles beyond Axminfter, on the left, is Shute y the 
 feat of Sir J. W. Pole, Baronet ; and a little more to the left 
 is Efcott, the feat of Sir George Yonge, Baronet, 
 
 Tawflock % fix miles from Bideford, is the feat of Sir Bou- 
 chier Wrey, Baronet. This has been faid to be the largeft 
 and beft firiifhed houfe in the county. 
 
 Copplejlon^itn miles from Exeter, is the feat of Sir Charles 
 Warwick Bampfylde, Baronet, 
 
 About two miles fouth-eaft of Topfliarn is Powderham 
 Cafile, an ancient feat belonging to Lord (Jourtenay. It 
 ftands in the middle of a fine park, furrounded with walls, 
 ihaded with lofty elms, and waftied by the ri/er Ex. 
 
 Halldown^ four miles from Exeter, is the feat of the Lady 
 Dowager Chudleigh. It is one of the beft modern houfrs in 
 the county, and was built by the late Sir Gregory Chudleigh, 
 Baronet, aker the model of Buckingham-Houfe (now the 
 Queen's Palace) in St, James's Park. 
 
 The principal feats in this county lie on or about Hall* 
 down, which is a dry heath, about feven miles in length, and 
 three in breadth 9 which, not withftanding it is a flinty, bar- 
 ren foil, is a moft delightful fituation, together with a charm* 
 ing profpedt both by fea and iand ; fo that, unlefs it be about 
 London, there are not fo many gentlemen's feats within the 
 compafs of ground, as lie round the fkirts of this common, 
 viz. Lord Clifford's, at Ugbrook ; the late Biihop of Exeter's, 
 at Daivlijh ; the Jate Stephen Northleigh's, Efq at Peamore; 
 Mr. HeJyar's, at Canon 9 s-Tring ; Mr. Savery's, at Treball 9 
 Mr. Baile's, at Mourhead, Mr, Woolcomb's, at Place^ 
 Mr. Yarde's, at Wbiteway \ Mr Langdon's, at Park-Place, 
 Mr. Geare's, at Holloway ; Mr. Snepherd's, at Bell-Marjh 9 
 Mr, Davenport's, at Burroughs Lord VVaJpole's, at Hynton 9 
 
 a confiderablc 
 
182 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 a confideraWe way farther to the weft, near Hatherley ; and 
 Mr. Champney's, near Barnjiaple\ befides Lord Courtenay's 
 and Lady Chudleigh's, already mentioned. 
 
 In the foreft of Dartmoor, between Taviftock and Cheg- 
 ford, is a high hill called Crocken^orr^ where the tinners of 
 this county are obliged by their charter to afTemble their par- 
 liaments, or the jurats, who are commonly gentlemen within 
 the jurifdiclicn, chofen from the four ftannary courts of 
 coinage in this county, of which the lord-warden isjudge. 
 The jurats being met, to the number fometimes of two or 
 three hundred, in this defolate place, are quite expofed to the 
 weather, and have no other place to fit upon but a moor-ftone 
 bench, and no refre(hmei)ts but what they bring with them ; 
 for this reafon the fieward immediately adjourns the court to 
 Taviflock, or fome other ftannary town. 
 
 Kent's Hole is fituated about a mile and half from Torbay, 
 and is thus defcribed by a gentleman who vifited it lately : — 
 44 It has two openings about half way up a fteep cliff covered 
 44 with brufliwcod, and enamelled with a profufion of flow- 
 44 ers, particularly the cowflip, which is not confideied as a 
 44 native of Devon, The opening to the left is an arch 
 44 about two feet high, which lets you into the great cavern 
 44 at once; but the more acceflible entrance is by a cleft in 
 44 the rock on the right hand, which is about five feet high, 
 44 three feet wide, and forty-three in length, and leads you 
 4 * alfo into the great cave, which is ninety-three feet in 
 44 depth, and about one hundred in width; the extreme 
 44 height might be about thirty feet, but the height is very 
 44 unequal, as the floor rifes in the middle to within a few feet 
 44 of the roof. Two more openings front you here : that 
 44 on the left leads you on a level into a cave fifty-two feet 
 44 long and twenty-two broad, and then into a fecond fifty— 
 4< four feet long and about fifteen wide. Here a pool of 
 44 water clofes the cave, and the arch bends over it. Thefe 
 44 caves are alfo about thirty feet high. And here once for 
 44 all let it be underftood, that from fifteen to twenty feet is 
 44 the height of all the caves hereafter mentioned, and the 
 44 extreme breadth about fifteen. 
 
 44 Returning to the great cave I entered the opening on the 
 44 rights defcending by a very rocky flippery way into a paf- 
 
DEVONSHIRE. 183 
 
 <e fageone hundred and thirty-fix feet long, and from fix to 
 cc twelve feet high. I then afcended feveral fteps of rock 
 <c covered with congelations, and purfued the paflage (which 
 <c now in feveral places obliged me to (loop) for forty-two 
 " feet more, when I entered a fourth cave thirty-one feet 
 <c long ; thence, by a low narrow paflage forty-fix feet lono;, 
 <c I was conveyed into a fifth cave twenty-five feet long ; 
 <c from whence, on the right hand, branches another cavern 
 44 twenty-two feet long. I then went through another paf- 
 44 fage for fifty-fix feet, when meeting another ledge of rocks, 
 44 I clambered over them, and afcended into a vault fo low 
 44 as to oblige me to crawl on my hands and knees for fixty 
 c< feet, when I entered a feventh caverh fifty feet long, with 
 46 another on the right hand about thirty ; at the end of 
 " thelargeft of thefe caverns there is a pool of water, which, 
 <c on account of its depth, I could not venture to meafure, 
 44 but I fhould guefs it to be about twenty feet in length 5 
 4< and here the cave finally clofes. 
 
 84 By this meafurement, leaving out theodd inches, which, 
 Ci on account of the irregularity of the floor, may be thrown 
 4C into the fcale, I find the depth of this cavern to be fix 
 
 44 hundred and two feet; yet I am aware, that any perfon 
 * c hereafter who fhall give himfelf the trouble to meafure it 
 
 45 with the fame regard to truth and accuracy as I did, may 
 4C find the dimenfions very different, on account of the dark- 
 4t fiefs of the cave, the projecting rocks, and inequalities of 
 4S height and breadth, 
 
 4 * This cavern, although inferior to the Derbyfhire caves 
 44 in extent and loftinefs, and to Wokey in the latter re~ 
 4C fpecl, is yet of greater extent than Wokey, and hath four 
 44 more caves* * The petrefa&ions are very fine, and it 
 44 abounds with thofe cones formed of the drop-done, of 
 44 which Mr. Pope robbed Wokey to decorate his grotto at 
 44 Twickenham. One of thefe cones near the centre of the 
 44 great cave, with the ftalactitae which formed it pendant 
 4C trom the roof, would not difgrace the grotto of Antiparos. 
 44 Another very large cone will foon block up the fecond 
 44 paflage, and dofe the cave, unless another whimfical 
 44 grotto-maker fhould fettle near Torbay. Here are feveral 
 44 pools of very cold pellucid warer, but no running ftream 
 4C as at Pool's Hole, in Derbyshire, and Donald Mill Hole, 
 44 in i->ancafhire, both which I have feen. The murmur of 
 
 " thefe 
 
184. DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 et thefe fireams, reverberated by the hollows of the cavern, 
 
 <c produce a mo ft aw^ul effect. I faw feveral bats in a tor-. 
 
 " pid ftate, pendant from the roof and fides. The folitary 
 
 tc fituation of this cave adds greatly to its foiemnity." 
 
 At Brixham, a village about three miles weft of Dartmouth, 
 is a fpring, called Lay TVell, which ebbs and flows from one 
 to eleven times an hour. The rife and fail of it at a medium, 
 is about an inch and a quarter, and the area of the bafon into 
 which it is received, is a^out twenty feet. It fometimes bub- 
 bles like a boiling pot : the water, which is as clear as cryftal, 
 is very cold inthe fummer, yet never freezes in winter. The 
 neighbouring inhabitants have a notion that in fooie fevers it 
 is medicinal. 
 
 In the church of Lamerton, or Lamberton* a village two 
 miles fromTaviftock, are the effigies of Nicholas and Andrew 
 Tremaine, twins, of this parifh, who in features, ftature, 
 voice, and every other particular, fo exactly refembled < ach 
 other, that thofe who knew them beft could not always dif- 
 tinguifh them. But this fimilitude of character, however 
 uncommon, was iefs wonderful than the fympathy thatfub- 
 fifted between them ; for even at a diftance one from ano- 
 ther, it is faid that they performed the fame functions, had the 
 fame appetites and defires, and fuffered the fame pains and 
 anxieties, at the fame time. Of thefe remarkable perfons 
 nothing farther is related, than that in 1663 they were killed 
 together at Newhaven, in France j but upon what cccafion, 
 or in what manner, is not known. 
 
 Lidford is eighteen miles from Plymouth, and is fituated 
 on the river Lid, which is remarkable near this place for being 
 confined with rocks, by means of which it has worked itfelf 
 fo deep a channel in the ground, that the water can hardly be 
 feen from the bridge, or the murmurs of it heard by thofe 
 who pafcoverit. The bridge is level with the road, but the 
 furface of the water near feventy feet perpendicular below it. 
 
 About a mile from this place there is another natural phae- 
 nomenon, ftiil m^re remarkable, namely, a cataract, or fall 
 of water, from a height of near one hundred feet. The 
 water comes from a mill at fome diftance, and after a decli- 
 ning courle, arrives at the edge of the precipice or deep rock, 
 
 from 
 
DEVONSHIRE* 185 
 
 from whence it projects in a very beautiful manner, and 
 ftrikes upon a part of th? cliff ftanding out feme fmail dis- 
 tance beyond the brink of the precipice, by which it is fome- 
 what divided, and falls from thence in a wider cataract to 
 the bottom, where it has formed a deep bafon in the ground. 
 
 Torbay^ twelve miles from Dartmouth, is remarkable for 
 the landing of King William the Third, then Prince of 
 Orange, on November 5, j688. Here is a good road for 
 fhips, which is twelve miles in circumference, 
 
 Jippledore, near Barnftap'e, is well fituated and inhabited, 
 having a good harbour for fnips. Here it was that Hubba 
 the Dane, having laid wafte South Wales wifh fire and (word, 
 Janded in the reign of King Alfred, with thirty-three fail of 
 fhips, and laid liege to the caftle of Kenwith, now called 
 Hennaborougb. He was bravely repulfed by the Devonians, 
 defeated, and flain. He was hurried at Huddleftcne. 
 
 Kenzvith Cajlle is mentioned by Camden in the following 
 manner : — " From hence (viz. Barnftaple) the Taw palling 
 ct by Raleigh, (which formerly belonged to its noble Lords 
 ct of the fame name, but now to the famous family furnamed 
 <c De Chichejler* ,) and after that enlarged by the Torridge, 
 <c runs into the Severn fea, but finds not Kenwith Caftle, 
 " mentioned by Afferius to have been fuuated on the north 
 « coaft." 
 
 At Ckegford} which was formerly a considerable place, 
 though it is now only an infignificant village, is a fine ancienC 
 Gothic church. 
 
 About three miles from Alhburton, is the ancient village 
 of Buckfajileigh, where was formerly a monaftery of the 
 Ciftertian order, great part of the walls of which are yet 
 ftanding, from whence it appears to have been a confiderable 
 edifice. 
 
 BiJhofsTawton^ a village fituated upon the river Taw, 
 fouth of Barnftaple, was the firft bifhop's fee in the county* 
 Vol, I, 2 A Eadulphus, 
 
 * The anceftors of Sir John Chichcfter, Baronet, and of ihe Earl of 
 Donnegal, who is a younger branch of the ancient family of ChicheiUr, 
 
m DEVONSHIRE, 
 
 Eadulphus, or Werftan, the firft bifhop, had this fee about 
 the year 905 ; and Putta, the fecond bifliop, had his fee here 
 for fome time; but it was from that place removed to Cre- 
 ditor^ and from thence the fee was tranflated to Exeter. 
 
 The Valley of Stones^ near Lirtfon, is a grotefque and mod 
 romantic fpot. It is a beautiful valley about half a mile in 
 length, fttuated between two hills, covered with an immenfe 
 quantity of ftones and terminated by rocks which have the 
 appearance of ruined caftles, rifing at a great height and pre* 
 fenting a wild and pi&urefque profpeft. At an opening be- 
 tween the rocks, towards the clofe of the valley, there is a de- 
 lightful view of the Briftol Channel and the Welch coaft. 
 The fcenery of the whole country in the neighbourhood of 
 this curious valley is wonderfully ftriking — -The country 
 people call this valley The Deanes^ or Dancs^ and fcarcely 
 know it by any other name. Near it are fome remains of 
 Danifh encampments l one of them called Oldborough, in the 
 neighbouring parifh of Countefbury, at the very northern ex- 
 tremity of this county, on a very lofty hill, is uncommonly 
 perfe&. The Danes landed on this coaft, and committed many 
 depredations on it, particularly at Porlock and Watcher, in 
 the ninth and tenth centuries. Our Englifh hiftori^ns, re- 
 late, that the poor inhabitants fuffered all the mifenes which 
 lire and fword could infli£i. 
 
 At Berry Pomery y near Totnes, is an ancient caftle, origin 
 nally built by the descendants of Radulphde Pornery, who 
 held this and about fifty other lordfhips* in the time of Wil- 
 liam the Firft, 
 
 DORSETSHIRE, 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 THIS county is bounded by Devonfhire and part of 
 Somerfetfhire on the weft, by Wiltfliire and another 
 part of Somerfetfhire on the north, by Hamr.fhire on the 
 eaft, and by the Englifh Channel on the fouth. It is about 
 fifty miles in length from eaft to weft, thirty in breadth* and 
 one hundred and fifty miles in circumference. 
 
 This county has often been ftiled "the Garden of England; 
 its air is in general healthy j on the hills it is fomewhat 
 jfharp, but mild and pleafant in the vallies and near thecoafh 
 The foil is rich and fertile. The northern part, which was 
 formerly overfpread with forefis, now affords good pafture for 
 black cattle; and the fouthern part, which chiefly ccnfifts of 
 fine downs, feed an incredible number of fheep, and its val- 
 lies abound with corn. 
 
 The principal rivers in this county are the Stour and the 
 Frome. The Stour rifes in Somerfetfhire, and entering Dor- 
 fetfhire, runs due fouth to Sturminfter-Down, where, making 
 an angle, it runs a courfe nearly eaft-fouth-eaft, and leaving 
 Dor fetfh ire above five miles fouth-eaft of Wimborne-Minfter, 
 it falls into the Englifh Channel at Chrift-Church, in 
 Hampfhire. — The Frome rifes in the weft part of Dorfet- 
 fhire, near Everfhot, and running almoft due eaft, falls into 
 the bay of the Englifh Channel, called Pool Harbour, near 
 Wareham. — Other lefs confiderable rivers of this county are 
 the Piddle, the Lyddon, the Dulifh, and the Allen. — The 
 rivers of this county afford plenty of fifh ; but the tench and 
 eels cf the Stour are particularly famous. — The port towns 
 fupply the inhabitants with all forts of fea fifh ; and the rocks 
 upon the coaft abound with famphireand eringo. Here are 
 fvvans, geefe, and ducks, without number, and great plenty of 
 woodcocks, pheafants, partridges, pigeons, field-fares, and 
 other game» 
 
 2 A 2 This 
 
i«8 DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 This county alfo abounds with corn, cattle, wool, hemp, 
 and timber, 
 
 Dorfetfhire is divided into twenty-nine hundreds, and 
 contains twenty-two market-towns. It lies in the province 
 of Canterbury and diocefe of Briftol, and includes two hun- 
 dred and forty-eight parifhes. This county is remarkable 
 for its li^ea and woollen manufactures^ and its excellent beer. 
 
 MARKET-TOWNS. 
 
 Dorchester is diftant from London one hundred and 
 twenty-one miles, and is governed by a mayor, a recorder, 
 two bailiffs, fix aldermen, and fix capital burgefles, befides a 
 governor, who is annually chofen by twenty-four common* 
 council men 3 and whofe office is chiefly to look after the trade 
 of the town. A court of common-council, a Aided by five 
 of the capital .burgeffes, determines all matters belonging to 
 the privileges of the freemen. In this place, being the county 
 town, the afiizes for the county are held, and here the knights 
 of the fhire are elected* It is fituated upon a fmail afcent, 
 and c mmands a fine view of the river Frome, which lies 
 north of the town. It confifts chiefly of three flreets, which 
 are well paved and clean $ and the houfes are in general well 
 built, and the town fpaciotis and pleafant, Dorchefier is alfo 
 noted for the pleafant walks around it, which are indeed ex- 
 treme ly del/ghtfome. Here are three churches, a town-hall, 
 a fhire* hal!, and the county gaol, with its chapel. Sc. Peter's 
 church and the town hall ftand in one ftreet ; Trinity church 
 and the fliire-hali in another ; and All Saints church, below 
 which is the county gaol, with its chapel, in the third. St* 
 Petei's church is a 'handfome Itru&ure. There is a tradi- 
 tional rhyme* which imports the founder of this church tcj 
 $*ave been one Geoffery Van : 
 
 " Geoffery Van, 
 " With his wife Anne, 
 cc And his maid Nan, 
 " Built this church." 
 
 But there was long fince dug up in a garden here a large feal, 
 With indifputabie marks of antiquity, and this inferiptioo : 
 ff Sigilium Galfridi de Ann k is tftersfore fuppofed, with 
 
 fome 
 
DORSETSHIRE, 1S9 
 
 Tome reafon, that the founder's name was Ann. Here is a 
 good free*fchool houfe and a handfome alms-houfe near it, 
 belldes two other alms-houfes, the donations of private gen- 
 tlemen. This town was once famous for a manufactory of 
 broad cloth and ferge ; the manufactory of broadcloth is 
 entirely loft, and the ferge trade is come to nothing. The 
 principal bufinefsof the place at prefent is breeding fheep, of 
 which it is faid no lrfs than fix hundred thoufand are fed 
 within fix miles of this town. The ewes generally bring 
 two lambs, which is imputed to the wild thyme and other 
 aromatic herbage, which grows upon the downs here in 
 great plenty. The fheep and lambs are bought up by the 
 farmers of Buckioghamflhire, Bedford/hire, Oxfordshire, Kent, 
 and Surrey, to fupply the eaftern part or England. This 
 town alfo fends great quantities of malt every year to Briftol, 
 and it is noted for excellent cakes as well as for excellent beer. 
 
 Dorchefter is by Antoninus calied Durnovaria, i. e. a paf~ 
 fage over a river ; and by Ptolemy Durnium* In the time 
 of the Romans it was one of the winter ftations of the legions 
 quartered in thole parts ; and at about a mile dift mce from this 
 town they had a fumrner (ration now called Maiden Cajile. 
 It was then a camp, with five trenches, and included near 
 ten acres of ground. In the neighbourhood of this town the 
 Romans had alfo an amphitheatre one hundred and forty feet 
 wide and two hundred and twenty long, now called Maumbury, 
 having a terrace on the top, which is ftill ufed as a public 
 walk, and commands a profpe£t of the town and country 
 round it. The famous Roman cauieway called Ickening* 
 Jlreet, leading from this town to Maiden Caftle, and the 
 foundations of an old Roman W3li, which furrounded the 
 town, and a ditch that furrounded che wall, are ftill viiibJe. 
 A great variety of Roman coins have been dug up here at 
 different times ; fome of filver and others of copper, called by 
 the common people King Dorrfs Pence ; for :hey have a no- 
 tion that one King Dorn was the founder of Dorcheiier. 
 The Romans had alfo a caftle here which was demolished by 
 the Danes • but after the Norman invafion there was another 
 cattle erected on the fame fpot,of which the barons were go- 
 vernors f or a ] 0 ng time. This town was very confiderabie 
 before it was ruined by the Danes; and in the time of the 
 fcaxons, there were two mints in it for the coinage of money. 
 
 Shaftesbury, 
 
iqo DORSETSHIRE 
 
 Shaftesbury, or Shaston, !s a very ancient town, and 
 ftands on a hill unufualiy high and fteep in the port road 
 from London to Exeter, and commands a profpedt into Wilt- 
 fhire and Somerfetfhire. Its diftance from London is one 
 hundred and two miles. It is governed by a mayor, a re- 
 corder, twelve aldermen, bailiffs, and common-councilmen. 
 It contains about five hundred houfes, moft of which are 
 built of free-ftone, On the top of a hill called Park Hill, 
 near this town, a fine grove was planted fome years fince by 
 a gentleman in the neighbourhood for the inhabitants to walk 
 in. The air is pure and healthy, but the elevated fituation 
 of the town makes it rather cold. Here were anciently 
 twelve churches, but now there are only four, A moft mag- 
 nificent monallery was built here by King Alfred, of the 
 Benedictine order, but no remains of it are now to be feen. 
 Here is a town-hal), built in I578, where the Midfummer 
 quarter-feflions are held ; and alfo feveral alms-houfes and a 
 charity-fchool. Scarcely any kind of manufacture is carried 
 on here, but a well frequented market is held on Saturdays ; 
 zrnd it has feveral fairs. It gives the title of Earl to Anthony 
 Afhley Cooper, Baron Afhley, of Wimborne St. Giles, in 
 this county. 
 
 Water is fo fcarce in this town, that it ufed to be brought 
 from Motcomb, a village at fome diflance, by horfes; but in 
 1718, William Benfon, Efq; one of its reptefentatives, was 
 at the expence of conftruding engines, which raifed the water 
 of a well, about two miles ofF, to the height of above three 
 hundred feet, and conveyed it into a large cittern in the mid- 
 dle of the town. Thefe engines, however, have for fome 
 reafons been difafed, and the inhabitants have dug pits at the 
 doors of their houfes for preferving the rain water, which 
 not being fufficient for a conftant fupply, the poor get tfceir 
 living by bringing water in pails, or upon horfes, to the 
 town, from Mofcomb ; and as an acknowledgement to the 
 lord of the manor of Motco-mb, the mayor and burgeffesof 
 Shaftefbury go in prcctfiion every year, on the Monday be- 
 fore Holy Thurfday, with a kind of garland, fomething like 
 the May garlands carried about by thofe who fell milk in 
 London, confining of plate, borrowed of the neighbouring 
 gentry, and adorned with peacocks feathers. This garlana, 
 which is here called a prize bejcm> or byzant, is generally fo 
 richly adorned that it hasfometimes been worth not lefs than 
 
 one 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 one thoufand five hundred pounds, It is carried to a green 
 below the hill whence the water is taken, and prefented, to* 
 gether with a raw calf's head and a pair of gloves, to the 
 lord of the manor, who receives the prefent by his fteward, 
 and at the fame time diftributes twelve penny loaves and 
 three dozen of beer among the people. After the ceremony 
 is over, the prize befom is reftored to the mayor, and carried 
 back to the town by one of the officers, with great folemnity. 
 
 Blandford lies upon the Stour, at the diftance of one 
 hundred and fix miles from London* It is an ancient bo- 
 rough, governed by two bailiffs, chofen yearly out of the al- 
 demen or capital burgefles. It has been twice burnt down 
 by accident ; firft in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, but was 
 fcon rebuilt; and the fecond time on June 4, 1731, when 
 the fire raf ed fo violently, that few of the people faved any of* 
 their goods; and the fmall pox being much here at the fame 
 time, many of the fick were carried from the flames into the 
 fields, where they died. The town has however been fince 
 rebuilt in a very beautiful manner, infomuch that it is equalled 
 by few country towns. Its chief manufacture formerly was 
 band firings, and afterwards ftraw hats and bone lace, but now 
 malt and cloth. At prefent, however, its chief fupport is the 
 refortof travellers. The Chriftmas quarter-feffions are held 
 here. The town is much frequented by the gentry who have 
 feats upon pleafant downs, extending from this place to Dor- 
 chefter, and called Burford Dcwns ti Here is a bridge over 
 the Stour. 
 
 Sherborne is one hundred and feventeen miles from Lon- 
 don. It is a place of great antiquity, for it was of confi- 
 derable note in the time of the Saxons. It derives its name 
 from the Saxon words fcine 9 i. e. clear, or pure, and bunn> a 
 fpring or fountain. An epifcopal fee was fixed here in the 
 year 904, by Ina, King of the Weft Saxons ; in which there 
 fat twenty-five bifhops fuceeffively, til! the eleventh century, 
 when, after being united with the bifhopric of Sunning, 
 the fee was removed from hence, firft to Wilton, and after-* 
 wards to Old Sarum and Salifbury ; whereupon this county 
 Was made part of that diocefe, till King Henry the Eighth 
 erected a new fee at Briftol, to which diocefe it has belonged 
 ever fince. Soon after the tranflation of th- fee, the cathe- 
 dral 
 
i 9 2 DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 dral was converted into an abbey; and being a magnificent 
 edifice, was fo much prized by the inhabitants of the town, 
 that at the diflblution of the monafteries, they bought it for 
 their parifli church ; and it is faid that they pulled down 
 three churches and four chapels about the town to fave this. 
 Sherborne church is, indeed, a venerable regular Gothic 
 firucture, and adorned with excellent workmanfiiip both 
 within and without, and is fcarcely furpaffed by any panfh 
 church in the kingdom. It is a very regular building, in the 
 form of an unequal crofs, two hundred and feven feet long, 
 and one hundred and two wide. The nave is a noble Gothic 
 room, one hundred and eighty-two feet by thirty-two, and 
 one hundred and nine feet high ; and there is a dignity and 
 folemnity in the great ifle which is very {hiking. The win- 
 dows are . large and handfome, and the roof all of flone, 
 finely enriched with mouldings and other ornaments. At the 
 weft end flands a large organ, and at the eafi: a decent altar 
 piece. The tower contains fix large bells, which require 
 eighteen or twenty men to ring them in peal. The tenor, 
 or the fixth, is faid to weigh fixty thoufand pounds. It was 
 brought from Tournay, and given by Cardinal Wolfey so 
 this church, and on it is this infcription : 
 
 €e By Wolfey's gift I meafure time for all ; 
 
 " To mirth, to grief, to church, t ferve to call." 
 
 At the entrance of this church are interred Ethelbald and 
 Ethelbert, two of our Saxon Kings ; and among other mo- 
 numents here, in one of the ifles is a very fuperb one, erecTied 
 to the memory of John Lord Digby, Baron Dtgby of Sher- 
 borne, and Earl of Briftol. The Earl is reprefented at full 
 length in his parliamentary robes : on his left fide ftands his 
 firft lady, and on his right his fecond. 
 
 The following infcription, which is infcribed on a fair 
 tablet of ftone at the eaft end of the church, is worth pre- 
 fervation : 
 
 <c This monument was erecled by Mr. Thomas Man* 
 <4 fel of this town, in remembrance of a great hail ftorm, 
 * c May 16, 1709, between the hours of one ana four in the 
 * c afternoon, which flopping the courfe of a fmail river weft 
 <c of this church, caufed of a fudden an extraordinary flood 
 €6 in the abbey garden and green, running with fo rapid a 
 * 4 ft ream, that it forced open the north door of the church, 
 
 46 diiplaced 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 19 
 
 ' <c difplaced or removed about feven thoufand two hundred 
 ** and twenty-two feet of the pavement, and it was two feet 
 
 1 <5 and ten inches high as it pafled out of the fouth door." 
 Fabian aflcrts, that the town of Sherborne was burnt 
 down by a detachment of the Danifh army in 1 103. It does 
 not appear that this town ever fent representatives to par- 
 liament ; but it fent William Turpin and two other deputies 
 to a council held at Weftminfter in the eleventh year of the 
 reign of King Edward the Third. In 1685, twelve per- 
 fons were executed here for being concerned in Monmouth's 
 rebellion. In 1688, the Prince of Orange, afterwards King 
 William the Third, came to Sherborne Lodge from Exeter, 
 and was joined in this town by the Prince of Denmark, the 
 Dukes of Ormond and Grafton, Lord Churchill, and other 
 perfons of diftindlion, who deferted King James the becond 
 at Salifbury. This town gives the title of Baron to the 
 Digby family* 
 
 The fituation of Sherborne is pleafant, partly on a de- 
 clining hill, and partly in a vale, and by its fouthern expofure 
 very fertile. It is two miles in circumference, and contains 
 upwards of five hundred houfes, and near three thoufand in- 
 habitants. In the market place is a conduit of excellent 
 water, which is conftantly running, and has not been known 
 to fail in the drieft fummers. 
 
 Here is an alms-houfe, which was founded about the fif- 
 teenth year of the reign of King Henry the Sixth, by Robert 
 Nevil, bifliop of Sarum, and others. It maintains in every 
 thing fixteen men and eight women, who are chofen and go*, 
 verned by a matter and nineteen brethren, elected out of che 
 principal inhabitants of the town, by a majority of their own 
 body. Prayers are daily read in a chapel in the alms-houfe, 
 and a fermon is preached every Thurfday. In a room wherein 
 the mafter and brethren meet to tranfact the bufinefs of the 
 alms-houfe, there are ibme cupboards, on the doors of which 
 are fome paintings of an ancient date, well executed.— Here 
 is alfo a free-fchool, which was founded by King Edward 
 the Sixth. Twenty of the inhabitants of Sherborne are 
 governors of it. TheBiftiop or Bnitol for the time being is 
 the vifitor, and the governors can make ltatutes by his advice. 
 I he mafter and governors of the alms-hoale are each in their 
 turns warden and governor of the ichool, which has two 
 matters, clergymen and graduates in one of the underlines. 
 , Vol. I. 2 B Abeus 
 
I 9 4 DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 Abotit the year 1753? the fillc manufa&ory was Introduced 
 into this town, which has increafed greatly fince that time, 
 infomuch that there are now two large filk mills carried on 
 here, which conftantly employ five or fix hundred hands. 
 Both of thefe filk mills are ccnftru&ed on the plan of the 
 fi!k mills at Derby,-— The fpring quarter feffions are held 
 here. 
 
 There are the remains of a caftle here, which held out 
 during a long fiege in the time of the civil war in the reign 
 of King Charles the Firih It was one of the firft formally 
 befieged by the parliament's forces, and held out for the King 
 one of the laft. There was a large moat round it on the 
 morthfide; and there are ftill the remains of a fubterraneous 
 paffage into the adjacent vale. This caftle was built by- 
 Roger, the third bifhop of Salifbury, in the reign of King 
 Henry the Firft 5 but King Stephen, incenfed at the bifhop's 
 pride, feised it, and his fucceflbrs kept it till the year 135a, 
 when it wa& recovered from the crown by Robert Wyvil, a 
 prelate of more courage than learning. After it was taken 
 by the forces of the parliament in the civil war, they lent 
 orders to have it demolifhed. 
 
 Pool is fuppofed to derive its name from a bay called Lux* 
 JordLake^ which furrounds it on every fide but the north, 
 and in a calm looks like a pool, or ftanding water. It is dis- 
 tant from London one hundred and fix miies, and fent mem- 
 bers to parliament in the reign of King Edward the Third* 
 By a charter af Queen Elizabeth this town is fevered from 
 the county of Dorfet, and made a county cf itlelf, with che 
 privilege of a flierifF keeping a court to determine all caufes 
 both civil and criminal, with divers other immunities, feveral 
 of which it ftill enjoys, particularly the right of trying ma- 
 lefactors within its own jurisdiction, by a commiffion from 
 the crown, which faves the expence of entertaining the judges 
 on the circuit. The borough and county is governed by a 
 mavyor, reco rder, aldermen, a fhenff, a coroner, a town-clerk a 
 bailiffs, and common council men. The mayor, who is ad- 
 miral within the liberty, is choftn from amon^ the burgefTes, 
 snd after he \ a-.pafl*d the chair, is always an alderman ; and 
 the fi;ft year after his mayoral iy, he is fenior bailiff and a 
 julliceof the peace. From among the aldermen aie cholen 
 annually three jufliceSj the mayor and recorder being of the 
 
 quorum, 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 quorum, and the election of the freemen or burgeffes mult be 
 made by the mayor, four aldermen, and twenty-four burgeffes* 
 This town contains about four hundred houfes. The 
 church, which is about two hundred years old, is a large 
 ftrudture, but the tower is low, and the wings larger than the 
 body, and not equal to one another. Here is a beautiful town- 
 hall, built of ftone, a charity-fchool, a cuftom-houfe, and 
 quay ; and there is a large warehoufe, called the To vjn- Cellar t 
 for keeping the merchants goods. 
 
 Pool is one of the moft conficlerable ports in the weft of 
 England, and feveral of its merchants have reprefented it in 
 parliament. It carries on a great trade to the Weft indies, 
 to Newfoundland, and, in time of peace, to France; and fo 
 lately as the year 1750, two hundred and fifty fhips belonged 
 to it. Here is a great plenty of fifh, with which this town 
 fupplies Wiltfhire and the inland parts of Somerfetfkire. 
 This place is particularly remarkable for vaft plenty of 
 mackarel in the feafon, and for the beft and largeft oyfters in 
 all this part of England, which alfo contain larger pearls, 
 and more in number than any others in England ; they are 
 pickled and barrelled up here, and fent not only to London, 
 but to the Weft Indies, Spain, Italy, and other places. Great 
 quantities of corn, pulfe, and Furbeck ftone, are a!fo ex- 
 ported from this place. 
 
 Lyme was thus called from a little rivulet of the fame 
 name that runs by it j it is alfo called Lyme-Regis^ or King's 
 Lymt 9 probably from its having been annexed to Che crown 
 in the reign of King Edward the Firft. It is diftant from 
 London one hundred and fortyleven miles. King Edward 
 granted it every privilege that is enjoyed even by the city of 
 London, with a court of huttings, and freedom from all colls 
 andlaftage. Thefe privileges were confirmed by King Ed- 
 ward the Second and Third, by King James the Firft, King 
 Charles the Firft, and King William and Queen Mary. The 
 corporation now confifts of a mayor, a recorder, fifteen capi- 
 tal burgeffes, a town-clerk, and other officers. The mayor 
 is a juftice of the peace during his mayoralty, and the year 
 following ; and in the third year he is both juftice and coro- 
 ner ; two of the capital burgeffes arc alfo juftices of the peace. 
 Here are fome fine houfes built of free ftone, and covered 
 with blue flatej and as the town is fituated upon thedecli- 
 
 2 B 2 vity 
 
196 DORSETSHIRE; 
 
 vJty of a hill, the houfes rifing gradually one above another, 
 make a fine appearance at a diflance. The town has only 
 one church. The harbour at Lyme is one of the fineft in 
 theEnglifh Channel. There is a rivulet runs through the 
 middle of this town* but as it ftands on a high fleep rock, 
 the merchants are obliged to lade and unlade their goods at a 
 place called the Cobb* a quarter of a mile diftant from the 
 town. The Cobb is a ma fly building, andconfifts of a firm 
 frone wall, running out 3 confiderable way into the fea, and of 
 a breadth fufficient to admit of warehoufes, and carriages on 
 it, befides a houfe for the cuftom-houfe officers. Without 
 this wall, there is another of equal ftrength, which is carried 
 round the end of the firft wall, and forms the entrance into 
 the port, which for fafety perhaps is not to be equalled in 
 the world. There are fome guns planted at proper diftances, 
 both for the defence of the Cobb and of the town. The 
 mayor and burgefTes are at the expence of keeping the Cobb 
 in repair, for which end they are properly empowered to pro- 
 vide materials. That part of the town which lies at the foot 
 of the rock, near the fea, is fo low, that at fpring tides the 
 cellars are overflowed to the height of ten or twelve feet a 
 The cuftrm-houfe ftands upon pillars, and has the corn 
 market underneath it. This town had formerly a confide- 
 rable trade, particularly to Newfoundland, fo that the cuftoms 
 have produced fome years upwards of flxteen thoufand 
 pounds. 
 
 Bridport is fituated at the diflance of one hundred and 
 thirty-eight miles from London, upon a fmall river near the 
 coaft of the Englifh Channel, and in the great weftern road. 
 It is the capital of its hundred, and was made a borough by 
 King Henry the Third, by whofe charter it was leafed to 
 the inhabitants in fee farm, for a fmall quit rent, into the 
 Exchequer, collected by the bailiffs of the town, and payable 
 at Michaelmas. It was incorporated by King Henry the 
 Eighth, and afterwards by Queen Elizabeth 5 and by a char- 
 ter of King James the Firft, two bailiffs were to be chofen 
 yearly by the capital burgefTes, who were to be fifteen, of 
 whom the bailiffs were to be two; and the corporation was 
 empowered to chufe a recorder or town-clerk, who, with the 
 bailiffs in office, and the two preceding bailiffs, were to be 
 juftices of the peace. Th$ corporation had a power by this 
 
 charter 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 197 
 
 charter to build a prifon, to have a common feal, and to hold 
 lands and tenements. The bailiffs were to have all fines, 
 with other privileges, and to have two ferjeants to carry 
 maces before them. The town-hall is a mean building, in 
 which, however, the quarter feffiohs for the county are held 
 at Michaelmas every year. This town has a harbour, which 
 was formerly a good one : and while it was fuch, this was a 
 place of great trade; but a mortality happened here, which 
 carried off the great-eft part of the inhabitants, and the har- 
 bour was fo much neglected, that the entrance was barred by 
 the fand which the tides threw up; and though an aft of 
 parliament paffed in 1722, for reftoring and rebuilding the 
 haven and piers it has not yet been executed* Veffelsof a 
 fmall burthen, however, come in here, fuch as coafters and 
 colliers. The ffaple trade at prefent is large feins and nets, 
 ufed in the Britifh fifhery ; and failcloth, twine, and other 
 hemp manufactures* The foil between this town and Bea- 
 miiter is remarkably favourable for the cultivation of hemp. 
 The trade -carried on in the above branches, and the refort of 
 travellers, are its chief fupport. 
 
 Meicomb, called Meicomb- Regis , becaufe it was anciently 
 the King's demefne, is feparated from Weymouth by a fmall 
 river called the//^y. It isdiftant from London one hundred 
 and thirty mi?es, and fent members to parliament in the 
 reign of King Edward the Firft, before Weymouth had that 
 privilege. In the reign of King Edward the Third it was in 
 fo flourifhing a flate that it was by parliament appointed a 
 ftaple; but for irs quarrels with Weymouth, its privileges as 
 a port were removed to Pool in the reign of King Henry the 
 Sixth, but reftored in that: of Queen Elizabeth by ail of par- 
 liament, which was confirmed in the next reign, on condi- 
 tion that Meicomb and Weymouth ihould make but one 
 corporation, and enj^y their privileges in co nmon ; and to 
 this union is owing the prefent flourifhing condition of both. 
 This united corporaaon confr'ls of a mayor, who is the offi- 
 cer that returns the writs for electing members of par- 
 liament, a recorder, two bailiff*, twenty-four capital bur- 
 geffes, and a number of aldermen, wnich is neceflarily un- 
 certain, becaufe every peribn who is once a mayor, is an al- 
 derman ever afterwards, 
 
 Meicomb 
 
r 9 S D O R S E T S H I R E. 
 
 Melcomb has four tolerable ftreets : moft of the houfes 
 are built of Hone, though not very high ; and the place is 
 better fumifhed with d welling-houfes and warehoufes than 
 Weymouth, Here is a good market-place and town-hall, to 
 which the members of the corporation of Weymouth come 
 to attend the public bufinefs : the inhabitants of Weymouth 
 alfo in general attend divine fervice at Melcomb church. The 
 port, however, generally goes by the name of Weymouth. 
 It is fa id to be the bed frequented harbour in the county, and 
 is defended by Sand fort and Portland caftles. In the reign of 
 King James the Firft, a commodious bridge of timber, con- 
 fifting of feventeen arches, was built from Melcombe to 
 Weymouth, chiefly by the contributions of fome citizens of 
 London. The bridge having fallen to decay was rebuilt 
 fome years ago by Sir Thomas Hardy, William Harvey, 
 John Ward, and Reginald Marriot, Efqrs. who then repre- 
 sented this corporation in parliament. 
 
 In confequence of Melcomb-Regis having lately been 
 much frequented by a good deal of company, as a genteel 
 bathing place, it is confiderably improved and enlarged. 
 His Royal Highnefs the Duke of Gloucefter has lately built 
 a handfome houfe here; and there are very genteel accom- 
 modations for thofe who vifit this place in the bathing 
 feafon. The air is extremely good, and the country plea- 
 fant. 
 
 Weymouth is part of the town and corporation of Mel- 
 comb, and as fuch has been already in part defcribed. lis 
 fituation is low, yet it is a clean agreeable place. It has a 
 cuftom-houfe, and a good quay, and formerly carried on a 
 confiderable trade to France, Spain, Portugal, and the Weft 
 Indies $ the Newfoundland trade ftill thrives here 5 the wine 
 trade is alfo very confiderable ; and this place has a large cor- 
 refpondence in the country for the confumption of its re- 
 turns. The town is one hundred and thirty miles from 
 London. 
 
 Wareham is one hundred and fifteen miles from London. 
 It had a ftrong caftle built by William the Firft, of which 
 time has left no traces except thac the hill on which it flood 
 is ftill called Cafile Hill. At this place lived a reclufe called 
 Piter* a hermit, who, with hisfon, was hanged in thereiga 
 
 of 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 199 
 
 of King John, becaufe he had prophefied that the King 
 fhould be depofed at a certain time, and offered to fuffer death 
 if his prediction was not accomplifhed j but it does not ap- 
 pear whether he was put to death before the time arrived, or 
 after he incurred the penalty to which he fubmitted himfelf. 
 
 Wareham ftands in the moft healthy part of the county, 
 though furrounded with water on every fide, having the river 
 Frome on the fouth, the Piddle on the north, and the bay 
 into which they fall on the eaft. The inhabitants fay that it 
 rofe out of the ruins of Stowborough, now a village on 
 the other fide of the Frome* It is however reckoned the 
 oldeft town in the county, and was once the largeft, 
 having had feventeen churches. It was inclofed with walls, 
 and was formerly wafhed by the fea, which has fince retired 
 from it, and was then a harbour of confiderable note. It is 
 a corporation, which, by the charter of Queen Anne, con- 
 fills of a mayor, a recorder, a town-clerk, fix capita! bur- 
 geffes, and twelve common-councilrnen and their alfiftants. 
 The mayor, by an old prescriptive right, is coroner not only 
 of this place, but of the Ifle of Purbeck, and another fmall 
 iflandon the fouth fide of the bay of Pool, called Brownfea 
 IJland : He has been fupreme magiftrate here ever fince the 
 time of King Henry the Sixth ; and the mayor in office, the 
 preceding mayor, and the recorder, are juftices of the peace j 
 the officiating mayor and recorder are of the quorum, and are 
 empowered to hold their own feflions. Here are three 
 churches, St. Martin's, Trinity church, and St. Mary's 
 church, which are all three fupplied by one minifter, who 
 preaches at Sr. Mary's, the great church, the fummer half 
 year, and at the two others, alternately, in the winter. The 
 tower of St. Mary's is the chief ornament of the town* 
 The foil in and about this place produces large quantities of 
 garlicky but the chief trade of the town is in tobacco-pipe 
 clay, of which the beft in Great Britain is dug out of a hill 
 in the neighbourhood, called Hunger HilL 
 
 On Sunday, July 25, 1762, aDout three in the afternoon, 
 during divine fervice, a dreadful fire broke out in the centre of 
 the town, which lafted feveral hours, and confumed one hun* 
 dredand thirty-three hcufes, belides other buildings. The lofs 
 was eitimated at one hundred thoufand pounds, exciufive of in- 
 furances $ and the Sun-Fire-Office paid near ten thoufand 
 
 pounds 
 
200 DORSETSHIRE* 
 
 pounds to the infured fufferers. Since the above confla- 
 gration, the town has been greatly improved in point of 
 buildings. 
 
 Corfe Castle ftands in the middle of that part of the 
 county called The Ifle of Purbeck, at the diftance of one hun- 
 dred and twenty miles from London. It derives its name from 
 a caftle,now in ruins, fuppofed to have been built by King 
 Edgar, who kept his court here, and endowed the town with 
 feveral privileges. This caftle ftands a little north of the 
 town, oppofite to the churcfu on a very fteep rocky hill, 
 mingled with hard rubble chalk ftone, in the opening of thofe 
 ranges of hills that enclofe the eaftern part of the ifland of 
 Purbeck. Its fituation between the ends of thefe hills de- 
 prives it of much of its natural and artificial ftrength, being 
 fo commanded by them that they overlook the tops of the 
 higheft towers ; yet the ftru&ure is fo ftrong, the afcent of 
 the hill on all lides (except the fouth) fo fteep, and the walls 
 fomaflyand thick, that it muft have been one of the moft 
 impregnable fortrefles in the kingdom before the invention of 
 artiiiery. It was of great importance in refpe£l of its com- 
 mand over the whole ifland \ whence our Saxon ancefiors 
 juftly ftiled it Corfe Gate, as being the pafs and avenue into 
 the beft part of the ifland. It is about half a mile in circum- 
 ference, and appears to have been a magnificent ftructure of 
 an oval form. It is feparated from the town by a very deep 
 ditch, now dry, but water might formerly have been brought 
 into it. Over this ditch is a ftately bridge, of four very 
 high, narrow, round arches. — That it was a place of great 
 importance in the time of King Henry the Third is mani* 
 feft from hiftory j for when Simon Mont fort took that Prince 
 prifoner, in the forty-fecond year of his reign, it was one of 
 the three fortreffes winch he required to oe delivered up to 
 him i and it was afterwards cholcn by Mortimer for the prifon 
 of King tdw^rd the Second. It w^s repaired oy King Henry 
 the Seventh, and afterwards by Km^ Cnarles the Firft, for 
 whom it was a garriion > but oeing taken by the parliament 
 forces, they plundered and dtmoiiiheo it, 
 
 Corfe Cattle was a long time a borough by prefcription, 
 and after wads incorporated by Queen .hlizabetru King 
 Charles the Second alfu, as a reward for cue gallant derence 
 
 every 
 
DORSETSHIRE© 
 
 the caftle made for him, granted an exemption from toll, ar- 
 refts, fuits or fervice without the borough ; and belides 
 every other privilege in common with the Cinque ports, the 
 peculiar honour of baron to its principal members, the ftyle 
 of the letters of incorporation being The Mayor and Barons 
 of Corfe Cajile\ and all the barons that have ferved the office 
 of mayor are juftices of the peace, and can hold feffians, 
 chufe coroners, and ale-tafters "during life. The lord of the 
 manor is, by inheritance, lord lieutenant of the ifle of Pur- 
 beck; has power to appoint all officer?, and to determine all 
 aclions by his bailiffs and deputies ; has all fhipwrecks in the 
 ifle, and a freedom from the court of admiralty. This town 
 has a large and lofty church, which is a royal peculiar, not 
 liable to any epifcopal viiitation or jurifdidion, and has a 
 chapel of eafe about a mile out of town. 
 
 Wimborn- Minster, or Winborn-Mister, had for* 
 merly a monaftcry, whence Minjler was added to the name of 
 Wtmborn* In the time of the Romans it was one of the two 
 winter {rations for their legions in this country, Dorcbefter 
 being the other. The fummer ftation was a hill called Bad- 
 tury, two miles diftant from this town. It is one hundred 
 and eight miles from London, and is fituated near the conflux 
 of the rivers Stour and Allen. This is the largeit parifh in 
 the county : The church is a noble edifice, built in the man- 
 ner of a cathedral, one hundred and eighty feet long, with 
 a fine tower in the middle, and a fpire faid to have been taller 
 than any in the kingdom, which fell down in i6;o. There 
 is another tower at the weft end of the church, and each of 
 thefe towers is ninety feet high. King Etheldied, brother of 
 King Alfred, lies buried in this church, under a marble tomb, 
 on which istheeffigy of aKing crowned* a half length, and this 
 infcription ; cc In hoc loco quiefeit corpus 5. Etheldredi Regis 
 c * WeJlSaxonum^Martyrh^qui^ Anno Domini 88 1 23 Aprilis 9 
 <c per manus Danorum Pagamrum occubuit" — Here is the only 
 choir in the county, coniiiting of four finging men, fix boys, 
 and an organift. A very fine free-fchool was founded hereby 
 Margaret Countefs of Richmond, mother to King Henry the 
 Seventh, the ftipend of which Queen Elizabeth augmented, 
 and annexed it to the foundation, This is a populous place, 
 and is chiefly fupported by knitting itockings. It has been 
 
 Vol. I. 2 C greatly 
 
zoz DORSETSHIRE, 
 
 greatly improved of late years, and makes a very neat and 
 pleafing appearance, 
 
 Sturminster Newton took its name probably from its 
 having been once a monaftery, or minfter, upon the river 
 Stour, and joined by a ftone bridge over that river to another 
 town called Newton Ca/ile 9 of which there are now fcarcely 
 any remains. This town is diftant from London one hun- 
 dred and eleven miles, and is a mean obfcure place* 
 
 Frampton, or Frometon, derives its name from its 
 fituation upon the river Frome, at the diftance of one hun- 
 dred and twenty-nine miles from London. It is remarkable 
 only for its excellent trouts, and the manfion-houfe of Mr. 
 Brown, which is a noble ftru&ure, built of Portland ftone, 
 about eighty feet in front. It (lands on the north-eaft con- 
 fines of the county, and is one of the largeft parifhes ia it, 
 being above forty miles in circumference. 
 
 Milton-Abbas is fituated fouth-weft of Blandford, at 
 the diftance of one hundred and thirteen miles from London, 
 and has nothing remarkable except its abbey, on the fcite of 
 which Lord Milton has built an elegant houfe, a description 
 of which we fhall give in our account of the remarkable 
 feats in this county. Here is a free-fchoo!, to which is an- 
 nexed a handforne ftipend. — St* Catharine's chapel, on the 
 hill above this town,, is now converted into a pigeon-houfe. 
 
 Stalbribge is one hundred and eleven miles from Lon- 
 don., and is a fmali town, having nothing worthy of note be- 
 fides a large and ancient houfe, which was formerly the refi~ 
 dence of the celebrated Peter Walters, whofe character is 
 delineated in the fatires of Mr. Pope. It is now the pro- 
 perty of Lord Paget. 
 
 Evershot ftands upon the borders of Somerfetfhire, one 
 hundred and twenty-eight mitei from London, and is a fmall 
 obj ure town. Here is, however, a grammar fchool, tole- 
 rably weil endowed. 
 
 Cranbourn is diftant from London ninety-four miles, 
 and is pleafantly fituated in a healthy fporting country, near 
 
 a very 
 
1 
 
 D O R S E T S H I R E» 203 
 
 * very large cbace. It is well watered, and is a pretty little 
 town. 
 
 Cerne* Abbey is diftant from London one hundred and 
 twenty-three miles, and is a fmall market-town, pleafantly 
 fituated in a vale furrounded with fteep hills. Its chief trade 
 is corn and ale. It was anciently famous for its abbey, 
 founded by Ailmer Earl of Cornwall, in the clofe of the 
 eighth century, for Benedictine monks, on the fpot where 
 tradition pretends St. Auguftine, in proof of his miffion, 
 caufed afpring to i flue out of the earth, which is ftill calied 
 by his name. All the remains of this houfe are its gateway, 
 adorned with the arms of the founder and benefactors, and a 
 very large ftone barn, better preferved than that of Aboots-« 
 bury. What is called The Abbey- Houfe at the head of the 
 High-ftreet, is a manfion-houfe, built in thelaft century out 
 of the ruins. 
 
 Bere*Regis ftands upon a rivulet of its own name* 
 near its influx into the river Piddle, at the diftance of one 
 hundred and fifteen miles from London* 
 
 Beamister is diftant from London one hundred and forty 
 miles, and has a good charity-fchool, but nothing elfe that is 
 remarkable. It has fuffered greatly by fires, particularly by 
 one which happened in the fpring of the year 1781, by which 
 a very confiderable part of the town was deftroyed. 
 
 Abbqtsbury is diftant from London one hundred and 
 thirty one miles. It is a fmall decayed market-town, and i& 
 eminent only for the inconfiderable ruins of a monaftery, 
 founded by Orcus, fteward of the houfehold to King Canute - 9 
 and for Lord Ikhefter's noble fwannery, containing between 
 fix and feven hundred fwans, with a decoy, a little weft.of 
 the town. Near half of a large romantic barn built of 
 ftone ftill remains, and Sc. Catharine's chapel, a pretty en- 
 tire building on the top of the hill that overlooks the town. 
 At the end of a ridge of hills, a mile and an half weft of the 
 town, is Abbotfbury Caftle, an old fortification nearly fquare, 
 two fides double ditched. Vaft quantities of mackarel are 
 annually taken on the coaft from hence to Portland, which, 
 ate fold extremely cheap. 
 
 2 C 2 Remarkable, 
 
D O R S E T S H I R E. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c« 
 
 Sherborne Lodge> the feat of Lord Digby, fituated in 
 his Lordfliip's park, near the town of Sherborne, was built 
 by the celebrated Sir Walter Raleigh. It is built in the form 
 of the letter H. There is a fine piece of water on the north 
 fide of the houfe, which has all the appearance of a fine na- 
 vigable river, and has indeed a fmall rivulet running through 
 it ; over which a very handfome bridge has been erected by 
 Mr. Mylne, architect of Black Friars bridge. There is a 
 fine fhady walk of lofty trees in the gardens, called Sir Walter 
 Raleigh's Grove, The park contains five hundred acres, and 
 four hundred head of deer. 
 
 The ingenious Air. Horace Walpole very juftly obferves 
 of this feat, that " The ruins of the Bifhop's Caftle, Sir 
 * 5 Walter Raleigh's Grove, the houfe built by him and the 
 «* firft Earl of Briftol, the fiege the caftle fuftained in the 
 S6 civil war, a grove planted by Mr. Pope, and the noble lake 
 " made by the laft Lord, concur to make that feat one of the 
 4< rnofi venerable and beautiful in England " 
 
 Wimhorn Si. Gibson the neighbourhood of Wimborn, is 
 a very fine feat of the Earl of bhaftefbury, and adjoining to 
 it is a park two miles round. The garden is pleafant and 
 fpacious ; the river Alien runs through it, and it is adorned 
 with feveral pieces of water, pleafure-houfes, ftatues, &c. 
 Here is one of the fineft grottoes in England, confifting of 
 two parts: The innermoft and largeft is furnilhed with a 
 variety of curious fhells, difpofcd in the moft beautiful man- 
 ner 5 the outer, or ante-grotto, with ores and minerals of all 
 kinds, collected from various parts of the world. The ar- 
 rangement took up two years ; and, with the expence of col- 
 lecting the fhells, ores, &c. coft ten thoufand pounds., 
 
 Milton- Abbey is the feat of Lord Milton, who has made 
 improvements here of the mcfi capital kind, which fo hap- 
 pily unite with the beauties of the ground as to render the 
 whole uncommonly fine. The great peculiarity of the place 
 as a remarkable winding valley, three miles long, furrounded 
 on every fide by hills, whofe variety is very great. It is all 
 lawn i and, as the furface has many fine fwells, and other 
 gentle irregularities, the effe£i is every where beautiful* The 
 
 hills, 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 205 
 
 hills, on one fide, are thickly covered with wood, from the 
 edging of the vale itfelf, quite fpreading over the tops of the 
 hills: Thefe continued fweeps of hanging woods are very 
 noble. In fome places, they form bold projections, which 
 break forward in a pleafing ftile; in others they withdraw, 
 and open fine bofoms of wood, which are Angularly pidiu- 
 xefque. Throughout the whole, the union of lawn and 
 wood is admirable. Milton Abbev is one of the moft 
 ancient buildings in England, having been founded by King 
 Athelftan. 
 
 Melbury Sampford, near Everfhof, is a handfome feat of 
 the E rls of ilcvifter. The prefent houfe was built in 1713. 
 The principal front is adorned with fix Corinthian pilafters, 
 and before it is a large canal. In the north weft corner is an 
 ancient tower, mentioned by Leland as jufl: built in his time* 
 The fhrubbery belonging to it is very extenfive, and laid out 
 with great tafte and elegance. 
 
 At Clifton, near Sherborne, are the remains of an ancient 
 feat, which formerly belonged to the celebrated Peter Waiters, 
 Efq; but which is now the property of Lord Paget. There 
 is a noble gateway belonging to it, which is much and defer- 
 vedly admired, as being an elegant imitation of the genuine 
 ilile of the Gothic archite&ure. 
 
 Mr. PleydeH's feat at Milborn St. Andrew's, is a handfome 
 fione building, furrounded with pleafant avenues and pieces 
 of water. 
 
 At Steeple, in the ifland of Purbeck, is the elegant feat of 
 John Bond, Efq; agreeably inclofed with planting and water, 
 in the midfl of a dreary h^ath. 
 
 At Great Mintern, near Cerne, is the feat of Admiral 
 Digby, brother to Lord Digby. 
 
 At Moore Critchell, near Cranborne, is the feat of Hum- 
 phrey Sturt, &fqi which has lately been greatly improved 
 Und enlarged. 
 
 Mooke- Cafth) 
 
206 DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 Hooke Cajile^ nine miles from Dorchefter, is the feat of the 
 Duke of Bolton. 
 
 Lulworth Caftki near Dorchefter, is the feat of Mr. Wyld. 
 It was built in the reign of James theFirft, by the Earl of 
 Suffolk, after a defign of Inigo Jones. 
 
 Cranbourn-Houfe^ eleven miles from Shaftefbury, is the 
 feat of the Earl of Salifbury. 
 
 Brianfton, about a mile from Blandford, is the feat of Henry 
 Portman, Efq. 
 
 Buckland) fix miles from Dorchefter, is the feat of Earl 
 Pawlet. 
 
 At Piddleton % four miles from Dorchefter, is a feat of the 
 Earl of Oxford. 
 
 There is in this county a peninfula, called Portland IJIand % 
 the fea having formerly flowed round it, though it is now 
 joined to the main by a beach, called Cheftil Bank, which 
 the furge has thrown up. Whence Portland derives its name 
 is not certainly known ; fome fuppofe from its fituation op- 
 pofite the port of Weymouth, and others from a Saxon, who 
 pofTefTed himfelf of it about the year 513. It is fcarcely 
 feven miles in compafs, and but thinly inhabited 5 for though 
 it affords plenty of corn and pafture, yet wood and coal are 
 fo fcarce, that the inhabitants are forced to dry the dung of 
 their black cattle for fuel. The land here is fo high, that 
 in clear weather it gives a profpeft above half way over the 
 Englilh channel. The ifland is rendered inacceffible by high 
 and dangerous rocks, except on the north fide, where it is de- 
 fended by a ftrong caftle that was built by King Henry the 
 Eighth, called Portland Ca/lle 9 and another ere&ed on theoppo- 
 fitefhore, called SandfordGaJlle. Thefe command all (hips that 
 come into the road, which, for its ftrong current fetting in 
 from theEnglifh and French coafts, is called Portland- Race* 
 Thefe currents render it always turbulent, and have fre- 
 quently driven veftels not aware of them to the weft of Port- 
 land, and wrecked them on the Cheflii Bank, on the two 
 points of which there are light-houles^ to warn the mariner 
 
DORSETSHIRE, 2 a? 
 
 of his danger. This peninfula is famous for its quarries of 
 excellent ftone, called Portland ftone, reckoned the beft in 
 the kingdom for duration and beauty. 
 
 A new church has been erefled on this ifland within a few 
 years, the old one being in a very ruinous ftate, in confe- 
 quence of the inroads of the fea. The new one is fituated 
 farther from the fea, and confequently is lefs expofed to its 
 attacks. 
 
 CkeJJtlBank is a continuation of Portland Ifland, reaching 
 north-weft to Abbotfbury, near feven miles, and running 
 parallel to the fhore, between which and the bank there is an 
 inlet of water which forms a lake, and which, in fome 
 places, is half a mile over. 
 
 There is another peninfula in this county, fuppofed alio to 
 have been once furrounded by the fea, called Purbeck Ifland* 
 It is fituated between Wareham and the Englifti channel.— 
 This ifland produces fome of the beft tobacco pipe clay in 
 the world, and is about twelve miles in length, and ten in 
 breadth. It comprehends two hundreds ; and nature feems 
 to have divided it into two parts, by two ranges of high hills. 
 The eaftern part is moft fertile, a deep rich country, but 
 ftcny. Near Langton and Swanwich we meet with fome 
 wood, the remains of a large foreft. Moft of the weftem 
 part of the ifland is a barren, heathy, and open country : but 
 interfperfed with fome fpots of fertile land. The air is 
 healthy, the foil generally a deep clay, and in the eaft and 
 fouth parts very ftony ; fo that the roads are always unplea- 
 fant, and in winter alrnoft impafiable. On the high grounds 
 corn grows ; but the ftrong foil and frequent fogs make the 
 harveft late. There is alfo pafture for fome fheep. 
 
 The quarries, ftiores, and cliffs, on the fouth fide, afford 
 an inexhauftible fund of natural curiofities. The former are 
 chiefly near Kingfton, Worth, Langton, and Swanwich. 
 In many parts of the ifland is a ftone, that rifes thin, and is 
 ufed for tiling ; alfo a hard paving ftone, which fweats againft 
 change of weather. Much of it was ufed in re-building 
 London after the fire, and particularly Sr. Paul's catn .dral ; 
 and for paving the ftreets and courts. In the new bridge at 
 Weftminfter, over the fofEt of each arch built with large 
 Portland block., is another arch of Purbeck, bounded in with 
 
 Portland 
 
20& DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 Portland ftone. Great quantities were carried to butfd 
 Ramfgate pier. This is the ammites, fand-ftone or free- 
 ftone, of various colours and qualities. At Swanwich 
 is a white ftone, full of (hells, which takes a polifn, 
 and looks like alabafter ; there is another of the fame 
 fort, but not fo hard. All over the heath, in this ifland, and 
 about Wareham and Morden, is found a ftone of an iron 
 colour, called fire- ftone; it rifes in blocks, fometimes very 
 large ; the furface is hard and frnooth, but the infide is of a 
 gritty fandy fubftance ; there is a kind of a quarry of it at 
 E aft- Holme. 
 
 At and near Dunfhay was formerly dug marble of feveral 
 colours, blue, red, fpotted, and grey, but chiefly the latter ; 
 all of acoarfe fort. The grey is a congeries of (hells. Vaft 
 quantities of it are found in all our ancient-churches 5 and 
 11 was in great repute for grave-ftones and monuments. ; 
 The pillars in Salifbury cathedral are thought to be composed 
 of this marble. 
 
 At Hermitage^ a village about (even miles fouth of Sher- 
 borne, there is a chafm in the earth, whence a large plot of 
 ground, with trees and hedges upon it, were removed entire tp ] 
 the diftance of forty rods, by an earthquake, which happen* | 
 cd on the 13th of January, 1585. 
 
 On the fouth fide of a very fteep hill, north of Cerne, is 
 cut in chalk, a monftrous human figure, called The Giant t 
 one hundred and eighty feet high ; his left leg extended, his 
 right hand holding a knotty club Some figures, as of a 
 date, appear between his legs. It is not eafy to affign the 
 origin of this figure, unlefs we fuppofe it reprefems fume 
 Saxon idol or hero. On the top of the hill over him, has 
 been an ancient fortification, and on the north point ot the 
 hill a barrow. 
 
 Woodbury Hill 9 near Bc re-Regis, is a large hand feme j 
 Roman camp or about ten acres, treble trenched, within 
 Which is held one of the greaceft fairs in the weft for goods of 
 all kincs, particularly hops, ciotn, cheefe, and horfes. Near 
 the road hetween Bloxworth and Waieham,on the heatn, is 
 Wools barrow^ or Oldbury, a little Danifh camp, furrounded 
 with tumuli. 
 
 The 
 
DORSETSHIRE. 
 
 209 
 
 The vale or foreft of Blakemore, comprehending a large 
 trad in the north weft part of the county between Cerne and 
 Sherborne, was anciently well wooded, but now confifts 
 chiefly of pafture, being very well watered. It is alfo called 
 White Hart Fore/?, from a tradition that a white hart, whofc 
 life King Henry the Third had fpared in the chafe, being af- 
 terwards killed by Sir Thomas Delalind, a neighbouring gen* 
 tleman, an annual payment called White Hart Silver, was 
 laid on his and his companions lands, which is {till con- 
 tinued. 
 
 Near Shillingfton, a vilhge upon the Stour, not far from 
 Sturminfter, there are two hills, one called Hamildon Hill, 
 and the other Hodde Hill ; Hamildon Hill is fortified with a 
 triple rampart, and Hodde Hill with only a fingle one. It 
 is certain they were both camps; but as they were neither of 
 them mentioned by Antoninus in his Itinerary, they can 
 fcarcely be fuppofed to have been thrown up the Romans, 
 and therefore are generally thought to be Danifh or Britifh. 
 
 Among the curiofities of this county, muft be reckoned 
 the rifing and falling of the water in Luxford Lake, by Pool, 
 which is faid to ebb and flow four times every twenty-four 
 hours. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 2 D 
 
 DURHAM, 
 
DURHAM. 
 
 THIS county takes its name from the city of Durham, 
 and is fometimes called the Bifhopric, and fometimes 
 the County Palatine of Durham, having formerly been a 
 kind of royalty, under the jurifdi&ion of a bifliop, fubordi- 
 nate to the crown. It is bounded by Northumberland on the 
 north, by the river Tees, which divides it from Yorkfhire on 
 the fouth, by the German ocean on the eaft, and by parts of 
 the counties of Weftmoreland, Cumberland, and Northum- 
 berland on the weft. It is of a triangular figure, meafures 
 thirty-nine miles in length, from eaft to weft, thirty-five in 
 breadth $ from north to fouth, and one hundred and feven far 
 circumference. This county is divided not into hundreds, 
 but, like the county of Cumberland, into wards or wakes, of 
 which it contains four. It has one city and feven market- 
 towns. It His in the province of York, is a diocefe of 
 itfelf, and contains fifty-two parifhes. 
 
 The air of this county is healthy, and though {harp in the 
 weftern parts, is yetmUd and pleafant towards the fea, the 
 warm vapours of which mitigate the cold, which, in a litua- 
 tion fo far north, muft be fevere in the winter feafon. The 
 foil is alfo different ; the weftern parts are mountainous and 
 barren, the reft of the county is beautiful, and, like the 
 fouthern counties, finely diverfified with meadows, paftures, 
 corn-fields, and woods. It abounds with inexhauftible mines 
 of lead and iron, and particularly coa), called Newcaftle coal, 
 from Newcaftle-upon-Tine, in Northumberland, the port 
 where it is fhipped to fuppiy the city of London, and the 
 greateft part o^ England. The rivers abound with fifh, par- 
 ticularly falmon, known in London by the name of New- 
 caftle falmon; and thefe two articles include almoft the 
 whole traffic of the place. The coal trade of this county is 
 one great nurfery for fearnen ; and the ports of Durham 
 fuppiy the royal navy with more men than any other in the 
 kingdom. 
 
J 
 
 0 
 
DURHAM. mi 
 
 In this county there are fixteen rivers, the chief of which 
 &re the Tees and the Were* The Tees rifeson the borders of 
 Cumberland, and running eaft-fouth-eaft, receives, befides 
 feveral lefs confiderable ftreams, the Laden, the Hude, the 
 Lune, the Bauder, and the Skern ; then running north- 
 north-eaft, it falls into the German Ocean. The Were is 
 formed of three fmall ftreams called the Kellop, the Wellop, 
 and the Burdop, which rife near one another in the weft pare 
 of the county, and within three miles of the head of the 
 Tees. The Were, thus formed, runs eaftward, receives the 
 Gaunlefs, and feveral fmaller ftreams, and then by many 
 windings, it directs its courfe north-eaft, and pafling by the 
 city of Durham, falls into the German Ssa at Sunderland* 
 
 CITY. 
 
 The City of DURHAM is two hundred and fifty-fix 
 miles from London, and is faid to have been built above 
 feventy years before the Noruan invafion. It is finely 
 fituated upon a hill, and is almoft furrounded by the river 
 Were. The approach to this city is romantic, through a 
 deep hollow, clothed on each fide with wood. It was fir ft 
 incorporated by King Richard the Firft, and was anciently- 
 governed by bailiffs, appointed by the bifhops,and afterwards 
 by an alderman and twelve burgefies. Queen Elizabeth gave 
 it a mayor and aldermen, and common-council y but it is 
 now governed under a charter procured by Bilhop Crew of 
 King Charles the Second, by twelve aldermen, twelve com- 
 mon councilmen, a recorder, town-clerk, and other officers, 
 who can hold a court-leet and court-baron within their city, 
 under the ftile of the Bilhop, for the time being. They keep 
 alfo a court, inftituted to regulate diforders at fairs, called a 
 Pye Powder Courts from piedj foot, and poulder^ dufty, be- 
 caufe it was held only during the fair, and made its determina- 
 tions after a fummary examination, before thedufi: wasfhaken 
 from the feet of thefuitors,. The fairs pay about twenty 
 pounds a year toll to the Bifhop or his lefiee. The Bifnop 
 of Durham is a temporal prince, being Ear! of Sadbergh 5 a 
 fmall town near Stockton, which he holds by barony ; he is 
 fheriff paramount of this county, and appoints his deputy, 
 who makes up his audit to him, without accounting to the 
 
 2 D 2 .Exchequer. 
 
D U R H A M. 
 
 Exchequer. He is alfo a count palatine, lord of the city, 
 and appoints all officers of juftice and other inferior magi- 
 ftrates. 
 
 The fituation of th'S city is fo pleafant and healthy, and 
 the country in which it ftands fo plentifu!,that it is much fre- 
 quented by the neighbouring gentry. It is furrounded by a 
 fortified wall, and is about one mile long, and one broad. The 
 form of it is compared to that of a crab, the market-place 
 refembling the body, and the ftreets the claws. The prin- 
 cipal building in it is the cathedral, which is dedicated to 
 Chriftand the Virgin Mary. It is a magnificent pile, four 
 hundred and eleven feet long and eighty broad, with three 
 fpacious ifles, one in the middle, and one at each end; that 
 in the middle is one hundred and feventy feet long, the eaftern 
 ifle is one hundred and thirty-two feet long, and the weftern 
 one hundred feet. In the weftern ifle was a chapel of the 
 Virgin Mary, called Galilee I the outfide of this chapel was 
 adorned with two handforne fpires, covered with lead, the 
 towers of which areftili ftanding. In the north tower there 
 were four large bells, three of which, foon after the reforma- 
 tion, were added to three in the middle tower, but they have 
 been fince caft into eight* The eaftern ifle was formerly called 
 The Nine Altars^ becaufe in the front facing the church there 
 wcrt fo many erected, that is, there were four in the north, 
 part of the ifle, four in the fouth, and one in the middle* 
 The middle one, which was dedicated to St. Cuthbert, the 
 patron of the church, was the moft beautiful, and near it was 
 a rich fhrine of that faint. The whole building is Itrongly 
 vaulted, and fupported by large pillars. The wainfcot of 
 the choir is vveli wrought, and the organ large and good, and 
 the front of marble. There is a handforne fcreen at the en- 
 trance into the choir, which is one hundred and feventeen 
 feet long, and thiity-three broad. Many of the windows 
 are very curious, particularly the middle window to the eaif, 
 which is called The Catharine Wheels or 5/. Catharine v t ffin- 
 dow : it comprehends all the breadth of the choir, and is 
 compofed of twenty»four lights. In the fouth end of the 
 church was a window, called St. Cuthbert* s> in which was 
 painted the hiftory of the life and miracles of that faint. 
 On the north fide was a third window, on which the hiftory 
 of Jofeph was painted, and which was therefore called Jojeph y s 
 Window* In the chapel called Galilee^ the women, who 
 
 were 
 
DURHAM. 
 
 were not allowed to go farther up than- a line of marble by 
 the fide of the front, ufcd to hear divine fervice, and it then 
 contained fixteen altars, for the celebration of the mafs, but 
 it is now u fed for holding the confiftory court, Thechapter- 
 houfe, in which fixteen bifilops are interred, is a ftafely room, 
 feventy-five feet long, and thirty-three broad, with an arched 
 roof of ftone, and a beautiful feat at the upper end, for the 
 inftalment of the hifliops. The decorations of this church 
 are faid to be richer than thofe of anv other church in Eng- 
 land, it having fufYered lef* by the alienation of its revenues 
 than any other cathedral. King Henry the Eighth eftab- 
 lifhed the prefent endowment of this church for a dean, 
 twelve prebendaries, twelve minor canon?, a deacon, fub- 
 deacon, fixteen lay finging men, a fcboolmafter, uTher, mafter 
 of the chorifters, a divinity reader, eight almfmen, eighteen 
 fchciars, ten chorifters, two verg rs, two porters, two cook?, 
 two butlers, and two facriftans. 
 
 This cathedral is adorned with a fine cloifter on the fouth. 
 fide, formerly glazed with painted glafs* On the eaft fide is 
 the chapter-houfe, the deanery, and a building called The Old 
 Library. On the weft fide is the dormitory, and under that 
 are the treafury and fong-houfe. On the north fide is the 
 new library, which is a large lightfoms building, begun by 
 Dean Sudbury, on the fide of the old common refectory of a 
 convent. 
 
 Befides the cathedral, there are fix parifti churches, three 
 of which Hand in the principal of middle part of the town, 
 and the other three in the fuburbs. Fhofe in the city are 
 St. Nicholas, or the City Church, which {lands in the mar- 
 ket-place j Sc. Ofwald's, commonly called Elvet Church ; 
 and St. Margaret's, called Crofs Gate Churchy which is a pa- 
 rochial chapel to Sc. Ofwald. Thofe in the fuburbs are 
 St. Giles's, commonly called Gilly-Gate Church ; St. Mary's 
 the Great, commonly called North Bailey Church ; and St, 
 Mary's the Lefs, called South Bailey Church ; St. Mary's the 
 Great is alfo called Bow Church; becaufe before it was re- 
 built, its fteeple ftood on an arch croffing the ftreet. 
 
 South of tne cathedral is the college, a quadrangular pile of 
 building, inclofing a Ipacsous court. It coofifts at prefent of 
 houies for the prebendaries ; and the greaicii part of it has 
 been either new built, or very much improved hnce the refto- 
 ration, Oppofite to the college gate, upon the eaft fide is trie 
 
 jtxchequer. 
 
114 DURHAM. 
 
 Exchequer. At the weft end was the Gueft-Hall, for the en«* 
 tertainment of ftrangers, and near it is the granary, and other 
 offices of the convent. On the north fide of the cathedral is 
 the college fchool, with a houfe for the matter ; and between 
 the church- yard and what is called The Caftle^ or The Bijhofs 
 Palace^ is an area, called The Palace Green. To the weft of 
 this is the (hire hall, where the affizes and felfions are held 
 for the county* and near it is a fine library, built by Dr. 
 Cofin, who was bifhop of this fee in the time of Charles the 
 Second, and the Exchequer built by Dr. Nevil, who was bi- 
 fhop afterwards. In the Exchequer are the offices belonging 
 to the county palatine court. On the eaft fide of the cathe- 
 dral is an hofpital, built and endowed by Bifhop Cofin ; and 
 there are two fchools,one at each end of it, founded by Bifhop 
 Langley, and new built by Bifhop Cofin. On the north fide 
 . of the cathedral is the cattle, which afterwards became the 
 bifhop's palace. It was built by William the Norman, and 
 the outer gate of it is now the county gaol. 
 
 Both the abbey or cathedral of Durham, and the caftle, 
 are pleafantly fituated on the fummit of a high cliff, whole 
 foot is wafhed on two fides by the river Were. The walks, 
 on the oppofite banks are very beautiful, flagged in the middle, 
 and paved on the fide, and are well kept. They are cut 
 through the woods, impend over the* river, and receive a ve- 
 nerable improvement from the caftle and ancient cathedral, 
 which foar above. 
 
 The other public buildings of this city are the Tolbooth, 
 by which may be underftood the cuftom-houfe, which ftands 
 near St. Nicholas's church ; thecrofs, and a conduit, both in 
 the market-place 3 there are alfo two ftone bridges over the 
 river Were» 
 
 MARKET-TOWNS. 
 
 Sunderland, which is ten miles from Durham, eighteen 
 from the mouth of the river Tees, and two hundred and fixty- 
 
 nine miles from London, is fituated on the fouth bank of the 
 river Were, and is a populous well built borough and fea-porr, 
 and has a very fine church, It is noted for its coal trade, 
 from which it derives great wealth $ and the coal of this 
 
 1 
 
DURHAM. 215 
 
 place is fo remarkable for burning flowly, that it is faid to 
 make three fires. The port is fo fliallow, that the (hips are 
 obliged to take in their loading in the open road, which is 
 fometimes very dangerous to the keelmen or lightermen that 
 bring the coals down to the ftiips ; therefore the {hips which 
 load here are generally fmaller than thofein the neighbouring 
 ports, but as they ride in the open fea, they are ready to fail 
 as foon as they can get in their loading, which is a very con- 
 siderable advantage; for they have been known to fail, to de- 
 liver their coals in London, to beat up againft the wind in 
 their return, and to get back, before the (hips at Shields, a 
 confiderable port at the mouth of the Tine, which was 
 loaded before them, had been able to get over the bar. 
 
 Darlington is fituated upon the river Skern, at the dis- 
 tance of two hundred and thirty-eight miles from London. 
 It is a large market and port town, and a great thoroughfare 
 from London to Berwick. It is one of the four ward towns 
 in the county of Durham, and is one of the moft confiderable 
 places in the north of England for the manufacture of linen, 
 particularly that fort called Huckabacks^ ufed for table-cloths 
 and napkins, of which great quantities are fent to London 
 and other places. Some fine linen cloth is alfo made here, 
 and the water of the Skern is fo famous for bleaching^ that 
 linen is fent from Scotland to this town to be bleached. 
 
 Barnard's Castle is two hundred and forty-five miles 
 from London, on the north fide of the river Tees, and is an 
 handfome well built town, but confifts only of one main 
 ftreet, and feveral lanes branching out. The chief manu- 
 factures are ftockings, bridles, and belts. This place has its 
 name from a caftle Duilt here by Barnard, great-grand fon of 
 John Baliol. The ruins of this ftructure Itill remain. — la 
 the reign of Edward the Fourth, the Duke of Gloucetter, 
 afterwards Richard the Third, erecled a college here for a 
 dean and canons ; and in the fame reign an hofpital was 
 founded for a mafterand three poor women. 
 
 Marwood is a little town, higher up the fame river, noted 
 alfo for the flocking manufacture, and a park which extends 
 itfelf from thence to Barnard's caftle* 
 
 Stockton 
 
2x6 DURHAM. 
 
 Stockton is eighteen miles from Durham, and two hun- 
 dred and forty eight from London. It is fituated on the 
 river Tees, about two miles from its mouth. It is a cor- 
 poration town, governed by a mayor and aldermen, and is one 
 of the four ward towns of this county. It is well built, and 
 a place of great refort and bufinefs, and its trade, and the 
 number of its inhabitants are fo much increafed, that a church 
 has been eredted in the place of a little old chapel. The 
 river Tees is capable of bearing Chips of good burthen at this 
 place, but the current is frequently dangerous. For the ma- 
 nagement of the port there is a collector of the cuftoms, and 
 ether inferior officers. Here is a good trade to London for 
 lead, butter, and bacon ; and there is a courfe near the town 
 where there are frequent horfe-races. The port of Stockton 
 is a member of the town of Newcaflle, as appears by a com* 
 milBon returned into the Exchequer in the reign of King 
 Charles the Second, and by a report made in the third year 
 of King George the Second, of the dimenfions of its three 
 lawful quays for the fhipping and landing goods. 
 
 Bishop's Aukland is fix miles from Durham, and two 
 hundied and fifty from London. It was formerly called North 
 dukland) to diftinguifh it from another place, not far diftant, 
 called Sukland. Both are fituated in a diftridt of this county 
 called fiuklantijhire^ from which they derive their name, 
 Aukland is probably a corruption of Oakland, the land of 
 oaks, this part of the county containing ieveral fine forefts* 
 and abounding in oak trees. This town afterwards becoming 
 a market-town, was called Market Aukland, and is now cal- 
 led Bijhop s Aukland) from a palace which belongs to the 
 bifliops of this fee. It is fituated near the conflux of the 
 rivers Were and Gaunlefs, is reckoned one of thebeft towns 
 in the county, and has a ftone bridge over the Were. The 
 palace was built, or rather improved, by Anthony Beck, who 
 was bifliop of Durham in the reign of Edward the Firfh 
 In the civil wars of 1 64.1 , it fell into the hands of Sir Arthur 
 Haflerig, baronet, a commander in the parliament army, who 
 pulled moft of it down, ana built a new houfe with tne ma- 
 terials. Upon the reftoiation it came into the hands of 
 Bifhop Cofin, who pulled down the houfe built by Hafleng, 
 and added a large apartment to what remained of the old 
 building. He aifo eredted a chapel in it, where he lies buried, 
 
 from 
 
DURHAM. 217 
 
 from which time it was called Bijhop's Aukland^ and founded 
 and endowed an hofpital for two married men 5 and two mar- 
 ried women. 
 
 Hartlepool is two hundred and fifty-eight miles from 
 London, and ftands on a little promontory, fix miles north 
 of the Tees, and is encompaiTed on all fides, except the eaft^ 
 by the fea. It is an ancient corporation, and has a fafe har- 
 bour. The town depends almoft entirely on fifhing, and on 
 the harbour, which is much frequented by colliers, efpecially 
 in ftrefs of weather : but the market is now much reduced. 
 The fhore affords an agreeable profpecl: to thofe who fail by, 
 exhibiting a pleafing variety of corn fields, meadows, villages, 
 and other rural fcenes. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Raby Cojlky the feat of the Earl of Darlington, is fituated 
 north-eaft of the town called Barnard's Gajlle. It is a noble 
 mafly building of its kind, uninjured by any modern ftrokes 
 inconfiftent vtith the general tafte of the edifice; but Amply 
 magnificent, it ftrikes by its magnitude, and that idea of 
 ftrength and command naturally annexed to the view of vafi 
 walls, lofty towers, battlements, and the furrounding out- 
 works of an old baron's refidence* The building itfelf, be- 
 fides the courts, covers an acre of land ; the fise may from 
 thence be concluded. The fouth front of it is very beauti- 
 ful, the centre of it is from a defign of Inigo Jones 3 nothing 
 in the Gothic tafte can be more elegant than the ftile and pro- 
 portion of the windows. The rooms are very numerous, and 
 more modern in their proportion and diftribution than one 
 would eafily conceive to be poffible within the walls of fa 
 ancient a building ; but by means of numerous paffages and 
 clofets, many of both which have been fcooped out of the 
 walls, and back flairs, the apartments are extremely conve- 
 nient, well connected, and at the fame time perfedily diftincl : 
 his Lordftiip has made feveral improvements, which add 
 greatly to the fpacioufnefs and convenience of the apartments 
 in general, 
 
 The bed-chambers and drefling-rooms are of a good fize 
 and proportion, and feveral of the lower apartments large and 
 Vol, I. 2 E elegantly 
 
2iS D U R H A M. 
 
 elegantly fitted up. One of the drawing-rooms is thirty feet 
 by twenty ; and the adjoining dining-room fifty-one feet by 
 twenty-one ; the windows of both of plate-glafs, and in the 
 fmalleft and lighteftof brafs frames. Near the dining-room 
 there is a rendezvous apartment, ninety feet long, thirty-fix 
 broad, and thirty-fix high 5 a proportion that pleafes the eye 
 at the very entrance ; it is improved by an addition of thirty 
 feet in length, by a circular tower at one end of it, in the 
 fame ftile as the reft of the caftle; by which means the fouth 
 front is greatly improved, and the room receives not only an 
 additional fpace, but the light of a circular bow window. 
 
 The park and ornamented grounds around the caftle are 
 difpofed with very great tafte. The lawns, woods, planta- 
 tions, objects, are remarkably beautiful. — Entering the lawn 
 from the plantations near the houfe,the whole fweep has a very 
 fine effeft. The dog-kennel, a Gothic ornamented building, 
 is feen on one fide rifing out of a fine wood, and beautifying 
 the fcene much. Upon the hill to the right is a Gothic 
 farm-houfe, a fimple but pleafing defign, ir* very fine fitua- 
 tion ; in front, along the valley, feveral clumps of trees are 
 Scattered, and between them his lordfhip's farm-houfe on a 
 rifing hill ; a building which greatly ornaments the grounds, 
 This part of the lawn is finely inclofed on three fides with 
 thriving plantations. This leads into the extended part of 
 the Iawn 5 which is, for its extent, as beautiful a one as cap* 
 any where be feen : the inequality of the ground is remark- 
 ably favourable to its beauty ; it confifts of fine fvveeps of 
 grafs, ftretching away to the right and left, over hills mod 
 elegantly fpresd with olantations on one fide, and prefenting 
 to the eye a fine waving uninterrupted furface through a val- 
 ley, on the other. It lofes itfelf in fuch a manner among the 
 woods, as to crive room for the imagination to play, and pic- 
 ture an extent fuperior to the reality, — in front, upon a fine 
 riiing hill, is fituated the farm-yard, with a moft eleganS 
 Gothic fcreen in it. 
 
 Frcm this hill, you lock back on a very fine fcene. To 
 the left, the whole is bounded by a moft noble range of 
 planted hanging hills, which extend to the woods in front, 
 funounding the caftle to the diftant profpe£l, in a moft pic- 
 turefque manner ; the hollow fcoops of lawn are peculiarly 
 beautiful : to the right, it has a noble fweep through the 
 valley, with a prodigious extenfive profpect over it to Rofe«* 
 
 bury- 
 
 • 
 
D U R H A M. 
 
 feury-topping, &c. Nothing can be more beautiful than this 
 whole view, which is compofed of the mod elegant difpofi- 
 tion of ground imaginable ; the hanging hills fpread with 
 wood; the hollow fcoops of grafs, fpacious lawns, and dif- 
 tant profpecft upon the whole, fill the eye and pleafe the ima- 
 gination. Winding up to the right, and moving along the 
 terrace,which is a natural one,but leads through an extenfive 
 plantation, the views it commands are very fine. You look 
 down upon the farm, and the hill upon which it (lands, 
 which waves through the valley in a mod pleafing manner : 
 throwing your eye more in front, you catch a lake breaking 
 upon the view in irregular fheets of water, juft over the: 
 tops of the lower woods; the effect moft truly piciurefque. 
 Upon the right, the whole valley is commanded, and the vil- 
 lage of Staindrop well fituated among inclofures and ftrag- 
 gling trees. 
 
 Advancing, theprofpedt varies ; a fine fweepof cultivated 
 hill is feen upon the left, and the Gothic farm-houfe, orna- 
 menting all the furrounding grounds ; defcending into the 
 vale, you catch the village and church of Staindrop, moft 
 pidiurefquely among the trees. Further down, from among 
 thefloping woods, through which the riding leads, the caftle 
 h feen rifing moft nobly, from a fore ground of wood, in a 
 ftile truly magnificent. Crofling this part of the lawn to the 
 lower terrace, you meet with grounds before unfeen, which 
 are excellently difpofed ; the plantations judicioufly fetched, 
 and the views pleafing. 
 
 The whole range of ground is feen to very great advantage, 
 by riding along the fouthern plantation : you there command 
 the whole, from the cattle on one fide to the hills beyond the 
 farm-houfe on the other ; and the fweep of plantations here 
 appears very noble» — Upon the whole, plantations difpofed 
 with more tafte, are no where to be feen ; none which are 
 Iketched with more judgement for fetting off the natural 
 inequalities of the ground, and managed more artfully foe 
 presenting, on a fmall fpace of land, a large extent of furface 
 to the eye. Nor can any thing of the kind be more beauti- 
 ful than the lawn, which fpreads over the hills and among 
 the woods, fo as to appear in different fweeps of green, in- 
 denting in fome places the woods, and breaking through 
 them in others. No objeft in the ftile of ornament, can be 
 
 2 E 2 more 
 
DURHAM. 
 
 more agreeable in itfelf, or more linking from its fituation, 
 than the farm- houfe, which is feen from rnoft parts of the 
 ground, and always to advantage, 
 
 Coker, the feat of Mr. Car, is a moft romantic fituation, 
 and laid out with great judgement. The walks are very ex- 
 tenfive, principally along the fides or at the bottom of deep 
 dells, hounded by vaft precipices finely wooded, and many 
 parts of the recks are planted with vines. The river Were 
 winds along the hollows, and forms two very fine reaches at 
 the place where you enter thefe walks. Its waters are very 
 clear, and its bottom a folid rock. The view towards the 
 ruins of Finchall-abbey is remarkably great, and the walk 
 beneath the cliff's has a magnificent folemnity, a fit retreat for 
 its rncnaftic inhabitants. This was once called The Defert 9 
 and was the rude fcene of the aufterities of St. Godric, who 
 carried them to the moft fenfelefs extravagance, A fober 
 mind may even at prefent be affecled with horror at the prof- 
 peel from the fummits of the cliffs into a darkfome and ftu- 
 pendous chafm, rendered ftill more tremendous by the roaring 
 of its waters over its diftant bottom. 
 
 Lumhy Cajlle^ belonging to the Earl of Scarborough, is 
 pleafantly feated in a fine park, near theeaft bank of the river 
 Were. It is a large fquare building, with towers at each cor- 
 ner, having a large court-yard in the middle. It contains a 
 great number of fpacious antique as well as modern buill 
 rooms, and the paintings are curious and valuable. 
 
 Among the other feats in this county are alfothe follow- 
 ing : — The Earl of CarlifiVs, at Stanhope - y Raven/worth 
 Caftky near Durham, the feat of Lord Ravenfworth ; Lord 
 Falconberg's, at Henknowle \ Sir John Eden's, at Wejl Auk* 
 land ; Sir Ralph Converses, at Harden ; and Bzjbofs Aukland % 
 one of the feats of theBifliopof Durham. 
 
 The cataracts of the river Tees are extremely well worth 
 viewing After the river has flept in a long and peaceful 
 canal, it pours its (beams down continued precipices, and 
 falls for feveral hundred yards, where it is toiled from rock to 
 rock, and making a prodigious noife, hurries forward in 
 
 (heets 
 
DURHAM. «i 
 
 fheefs of foam. The margin of the river is rocky, the hills 
 furrounding are barren and defolate, and nature Hems here, 
 by her outward garb, in fuch poverty, as if fhe was the out- 
 caft of an offended Deity ; from whence the affrighted floods 
 fly as from the object of fo tremendous an interdict; yet in 
 her lap this haggard daughter of the earth bears immenfe and 
 inexhauftible treafure: the value of the lead mines is not to 
 be eftimated. —Lower down is another fall of the river Tee?, 
 but very different in its afpecl. The vale in many parts (hows 
 pretty enclofures ; the hills become green, inilead of rufiet, 
 and the rocks are capped with turf. In (hort, this fcene is as 
 beautiful as the other is horrible. 
 
 Nejham^ a village upon the river Tees, fouth-eaff of Dar- 
 lington, and in the road from jLondon to Durham, is remark- 
 able for a ford over the river, wheie the bifhop, at his firii 
 coming to take poflfeffion of the fee, is met by the country 
 gentlemen, and where the lord of the manor of Sockburn, a 
 village fouth-eaftof Nefham, upon the fame river, advances 
 into the middle of the ftream, and prefents him with a fauU 
 chion, as an emblem of his temporal power, which he re- 
 turns him again, and then proceeds on his way. 
 
 Shields^ in this county, is of confiderable note for its fait 
 works, there being in this place abo^e two hundred pans for 
 boiling the fea water into fait, which are faid to require one 
 hundred thoufand chaldrons of coals every year. The fait 
 made here fupplies London, all the intermediate country, and 
 every place that isfupplied with that commodity by the navi- 
 gation of the river Thames. 
 
 At Oxenhall, a hamlet between Darlington and the Tees, 
 are three large deep pits full of water, called Hell Kettles , 
 and by the common people thought to have no bottom Some 
 fuppofe thefe pits to have been funk by an earthquake, becaufe 
 from an ancient book entitled The Chronicle of Tinmouth^ it 
 appears that on Chriftmas day, in the year 1 179, trie earth a: 
 this place rofe to a great height above the level, in which 
 flate it continued till the evening, and then finking down wicn 
 an horrid noife, was fw allowed up, and left a pit full of wa- 
 ter, which has continued ever fincc« The people here have 
 
 aa 
 
222 DURHAM. 
 
 an opinion that thefe pits communicate with the river Tees, 
 and with each other, by fubterraneous paflages. This opi- 
 nion Mr. Camden feems to have adopted ; and, as a proof of 
 the fact, he relates, that Cuthbert Tonftall, bifliop of Dur- 
 ham, having put a gpofe, which he marked for the purpofe, 
 into one of thefe wells, found it again in the river Tees* 
 This ftory, however, is not now credited ; and by a later 
 account of the pits, it appears, that the depth of the deepeft 
 is not above thirty yards. The moft probable opinion feems 
 to be, that they are old coal pits, rendered ufelefs by the railing 
 of water in them, which is always cold, though Mr. Cam- 
 den fays it is hot. It is remarkable that thefe pits are always 
 full to the brim, which is upon the fame level with the river 
 Tees ; there feems therefore to be good reafon to believe 
 that the water in the pits is fupplied from the river, whether 
 the paflage of communication would permit a goofe to go 
 through or not; nor does the communication make it necef* 
 fary that the pits fliould be deeper than they are. 
 
 LancheJIer^z village ftanding north-weft of Durham, upon 
 the Roman highway called Watling-Jlreet % isfuppofed by Mr, 
 Camden to be the Roman Longovicum, feveral inferiptions 
 having been dug up here which favour that opinion, and it 
 appearing by many ruins to have been fortified with a ftrong 
 thick wall, and adorned with temples, palaces, and other pub- 
 lic buildings. 
 
 Binchejiery a village upon the river Were, fouth-weftof 
 the city of Durham, is fuppofed to have been the Vinovium 
 of Antoninus, and theBinovium of Ptolemy. Here are ftill 
 vifible the ruins of walls and caftles. A variety of feals, 
 urns, and other antiquities, have been dug up in this place, 
 particularly fome Roman coins called Binchefter Pennies^ and 
 two altars. 
 
 At Winjlon^ a village upon the river Tees, about four miles 
 eaft of Barnard's Caftle, are feen the remains of a Roman 
 highway, which may be traced from Binchefter to Cattarick, 
 a village near Richmond, a confiderable borough town in 
 Yoikfhire. 
 
 Chejler 
 
DURHAM. 
 
 223 
 
 Chefter in the Street^ which is afmall village near Durham, 
 in the way to Berwick, is of great antiquity, and is fup- 
 pofed to have been a Roman ftation. 
 
 At Ebchefter^ a village lying north-weft of Chefter in the 
 Street, were difcovered fome years ago, the traces of a Roman 
 ftation, about two hundred yards fquare, with large fuburbs, 
 where a variety of ancient remains have been dug up. 
 
 ESS E X 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 THIS county is bounded by Suffolk and Cambridgeshire on 
 the north ; by the German ocean on the eaft ; by the 
 river Thames, which feparates it from the county of Kent, | 
 on the fouth ; and by the counties of Middlefex and Hertford 
 on the weft. It is about fifty miles in length, thirty-five in 
 breadth, and one hundred and forty in circumference ; and 
 contains twenty hundreds, twenty-two market-towns, four 
 hundred and fifteen parifhes, and one million two hundred and 
 forty thoufand acres. It abounds with corn, cattle, and wild 
 fowl ; and the north part3 of it, efpecially about Saffron 
 Walden, produce great quantities of faffron. Abundance 
 of oxen and (beep are fed in the marfhes near the Thames, 
 and fent to the markets of London. The inhabitants of 
 this county have plenty of fifb of all forts from the fea and 
 rivers ; and by the fea fide are decoys, which in the winter 
 feafon produce great profit to their owners. Towards the 
 fea the air of this county is aguifh, though it is more fo in 
 regard to ftrangers than to the natives. The principal ma- 
 nufactures of this county are cloths and fluffs, but particu- 
 larly bays and fays, of which, about half a century ago, fuch 
 quantities were exported to Spain and the Spanifh colonies 
 in America, to clothe the nuns and friars, that there has often 
 been a return from London of thirty thoufanti pounds a 
 week, in ready money only, to Colchefter and a few fmall 
 towns round it. 
 
 The principal rivers in this county are the Stour, the Lea, 
 the Coin, the Blackwater, and the Chelmer. The Stour 
 rifts in the north weft part of i.ffex, and running fouth-eaft 
 feparates it from Suffolk, and falls into the German Ocean at 
 IJarwich. i he Lea rifes in the north-weft part of the coun- 
 ty, runsalmoft dire&ly fouth, and feparating Effex from the 
 counties of Hertford and Middlefex, falls into the Thames 
 at Blackwall. — The Coin rifes aHo in the north-weft part of 
 Effex, and running fouth-weft to Halfted, runs parallel to 
 
 the 
 
E S S £ X, 
 
 225 
 
 the river Stour, and paffes by Colchefter, where, forming an 
 angle, it runs fouth-fouth-eaft, and falls into the German 
 Ocean, about feven or eight miles fouth-eaft from that town.— 
 The Blackwater rifes alfo in the north-weft part of Effex, 
 and running fouth-eaft paffes by Braintree, and falls into the 
 Chclmer at Maiden. — The Chelmer rifes within two or three 
 miles of the fource of the river Blackwater, 2nd running 
 nearly parallel to it, paffes to Chelmsford, where, forming an 
 angle, it runs directly eaft, and receiving the Blackwater, 
 falls into the German Ocean near Maiden. 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Chelmsford is a confiderable town, which is fituated at 
 the confluence of two rivers, the Chelmer and the Cann, 
 from the former of which it derived its name. It is the 
 county town, and is diftant from London twenty-nine miles. 
 The town confifts but of four ftreets, but is regular and well 
 built. The entrance to it from the London road is over an 
 old ftone bridge, built by Maurice, Bilhop of London, in the 
 reign of Henry the Firft. As foon as this is paffed over, a 
 fpacious ftreet prefents itfelf to the view of the traveller, at 
 the upper end of which, upon a little afcent, ftands the ftiire- 
 houfe. Each ftreet lies with an eafy defcent towards the 
 centre, and is wafhed with a current of clear water. The 
 Chelmer and the Cann form here an angle, along which lie 
 many pleafure gardens, and fome of them are agreeably laid 
 out. 
 
 In an open fpace, nearly a fquare, adjoining to the (hire- 
 houfe, ftands a conduit. It is of a quadrangular form, about 
 fifteen feet high, built with ftone and brick : it has four 
 pipes, one on each fide, from which the pureft water is perpe- 
 tually flowing. The following infcription is on the fide that 
 fronts the part from whence the fpring rifes: " This conduit 
 " in one minute runs one hogfliead and a half, and four gallons 
 M and a half. In one day 2262 hogfheads and 54 gallons. 
 <c In one month 63,360 hogfheads. And in one year 825,9^2 
 
 bogftieads and 54. gallons/' 
 
 The aflizes, gtneral quarter feflions, and other county 
 courts, are held at Chelmsford - 9 and here likewife are held the 
 elections for theknightsof theftiirej and here ftands the county 
 
 Vol. h 2 F gaol* 
 
226 ESSE X. 
 
 gaol* The great road from London to Colchefter, to Har- 
 wich, to Suffolk, and many parts of Norfolk, lies through this 
 town, fo that it is furnifhed with feveral good inns. Adjoin- 
 ing to the fhire-houfe is a good market-place, where a market 
 is held every Friday, fupplied with corn, meat, fifh, fowls, &c* 
 The church is an handfome ancient ftru&ure, fituated at the 
 end of the town. There are feveral handfome monuments in 
 it erefled in memory of the Mildmay family, one in particular 
 for Benjamin Mildmay, Earl of Fitz -Walter. — There is a 
 good free-fchool in this town, which was founded by King 
 Edward the Sixth, befides two other charity- fchools. 
 
 Colchester is a very ancient town, in the nortb-eaft part 
 ff the county, at the diftance of about fifty-one miles from 
 London, It {lands upon the north fide of a fine eminence, 
 rifing gradually from the river Colne, which waters the north 
 and eaft fides. It is the moft confiderable town in the county, 
 2nd is governed by a mayor, high-fteward, recorder, eleven 
 aldermen, eighteen common-counsifmen, and other corpo- 
 ration officers. It was laft incorporated by King Wiliiatii the 
 Third, and is a liberty of itfelf, having four wards and fix- 
 teen parifhes, eight of which are within the walls, and eight 
 without. It is a populous place, and is about three miles in 
 circumference : the ftreets are fpacious, and though not in 
 general remarkably well built, yet there are a great many 
 good houfes in it, befides the guild-hall, adjoining to which 
 is the town-gaol, and a hall called Dutch-baize-hall, belong- 
 ing to a corporation for the fupport of the baize and fay ma- 
 nufactures, both of which are fine buildings. Here are ten 
 parifh churches, and three meeting- houfes, of which one is 
 for the Quakers. Here are alfo two charity fchools, one for 
 feventy boys, and the other for fifty boys and girls, a work- 
 houfe, and two free grammar-fchools ; and there are three 
 bridges over the river Coine, which was made navigable by act 
 of parliament for fmall craft up to a long ftreet next the water 
 fide, calied The Hithe 9 where there is a quay, and for fhips of 
 large burthen, to a place called The Wywnhoe^ within three 
 miles of the town, where there is a cuftom-houfe. 
 
 Coichefier had formerly the greateft manufactory of baize 
 and fays of any -place in England j but that trade has of late 
 years considerably declined here. This place is alfo remark- 
 able for car/dying eringo roots, but much more for its oyliers, 
 
 for 
 
} 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 for which it is particularly famous. They are taken near the 
 mouth of the Colne, upon fands called The Splits, and arc 
 carried up to the Wyvenhoe, where they are laid in beds or 
 pits on the fhore to feed ; after they have continued in thefc 
 pits fome time, they are barrelled and brought to Co^chefter, 
 from whence they are fent in great quantities to London and 
 other places. Such flioals of fprats are caught here, and con- 
 fumed by the woollen manufacturers, that the common name 
 for this fifli in EfTex is the Weavers Beef of Colchejler. 
 
 This town has fent members to parliament from tne twenty- 
 third year of the reign of Edward the Firft to the prefent 
 time ; and upwards of fifteen hundred perfons are entitled 
 to votes here. There are three market days in every week in 
 this town, viz. on Wednefday, Friday, and Saturday ; and 
 here are five fairs held, one on the fecond Tuefday in April, 
 another on the 5th of J uly, another on the 23d of July, ano- 
 ther on the 2d of Auguft, and the lafion the 20ch of Oiiober. 
 
 Colchefter is fuppofed by fome to be the ancient Camuiodu- 
 num $ and it has been obferved that there are a greater quan- 
 tity of Roman remains here thai* in any other part of Britain ; 
 vaft quantities of Roman bricks and tiles being to be feen in- 
 corporated, and which indeed are the principal ingredients in 
 all the mod ancient edifices, the town- waH, the caftle, and 
 the churches being half buiit with them. The Suppellex 
 Romana of all kinds (till abounds, fcarcely any places being 
 dug up without difeovering urns, vafes, and poterie, of all 
 forts, or at leaft fragments, among which is a great deal of the 
 fine glazed and red ware, refembling the moft beautiful of chat 
 which comes from China. Lamps, rings, incaglias, ftyles, 
 chains, and fepulchral urns 3 with the aOies therein are likewife 
 frequently found ; a remarkable urn in particular was taken 
 up a few years ago ; it contained twenty gallons, having in it 
 another of two gallons, with the afhes, as is fuppofed, of a 
 Roman lady, becaufe there were alfo with it two bottles of 
 clay for incenfe, two clay lamps, one metal veffel for oint- 
 ment, and a fpeculum of polifhed metal, anciently ufed for 
 a looking- glafs. And there are here a great number of Mofaic 
 or teffelated pavements, about three feet under ground, having 
 black, white, red, and yellow teiierae, and looking like a beau- 
 tiful carpet. Some of thefe are preferred, being enclofed and 
 covered. But as to Roman coins and medals, it is faid that even 
 bufhels have been found in and about this town, and among ik 
 
 2 F 2 them 
 
M8 ESSEX* 
 
 them many gold ones, — The walls of this town are ftill 
 ftanding, but very much decayed in fome places, particularly 
 on the north fide. Where the wall remains perfe£l, it is faced 
 either with Roman brick, or fquare ftones, about feven or 
 eight inches in diameter. 
 
 Colchefter Caftle ftands on the north fide of what is called 
 the High-ftreet, and is a fquare of about two hundred and 
 twenty-four yards in circumference on the outfide. The 
 whole building is a mixture of ftone and Roman bricks ; 
 but moftof the Roman bricks are in broken pieces, taken 
 from the ruins of more ancient edifices formerly ftanding in 
 the town. The corners of the walls, and fides of the doors 
 and windows, are of free ftone. 
 
 In 1631, Dr. Harfnet, Archbifhop of York, gave to the 
 town of Colchefter all his library of books, and they are de- 
 pofited in the caftle. Several additions have fince been made 
 to this library ; and a very capital addition of valuable books 
 would have been made to it by the late Bifhop Compton ; 
 but the love of learning was then fo prevalent at Colchefter, 
 that the Bifhop's benefaction was negleded, in order to fave 
 the expcnce of carriage ! 
 
 Harwich ftands atthediftance of feventytwo miles from 
 London, and is fituated on a cliff or point of land, at the 
 porth-eaft corner of the county of Effex. It is bounded on 
 the eaft by the fea, and on the north by the mouth of the 
 river Stour, and the haven of Orwell. The wafhing and un- 
 dermining of the tides, and the falling of large pieces of the 
 cliff have made this point a peninfula, and it is apprehended, 
 in a courfe of years, will make it quite an lfland. The town 
 is not l^rge, but well built, and populous, Jt was formerly 
 walled round, and had four gates ; it had alfo a caftle, and an 
 admiralty houfe. it was firft made a borough by King Ed- 
 ward the Second, and was afterwards incorporated by King 
 James the Firft. Between this town and a high hill called 
 Beacon Hill, not far diftant, there is a cliff confifting of a 
 kind of clay, part$ of which are continually falling down 
 into a petrifying water at the bottom, which they imbibe, 
 and being afterwards taken out and dried, they become an 
 impenetrable and durable ftone, and with this ftone the town 
 js payed* 
 
 
 The 
 
E. S S E X. 
 
 The harbour is very fafe, and fo fpacious, that an hundred 
 fail of men of war, with their tenders, be r ides three or four 
 hundred fail of colliers, have fometimes been feen here at the 
 fame time. The mouth of the harbour at high water, is 
 near three miles wide, but the channel, by which alone the 
 fllips can come into the harbour, is deep and narrow, and lies 
 on the Suffolk fide ; fo that all the fhips that come in or go 
 out are commanded by a ftrong fort, called Landguard Forty 
 which was built by King James the Firft, on a point of land, 
 fo furrounded by thefeaat high water, that it looks like an 
 ifland, lying about a mile fro n the fh ore. The town was 
 formerly fortified on the land fide, but in the reign of King 
 Charles the Firft the fortifications were demolifhed. — There 
 is a Guildhall, and a tolerable good exchange at Harwich; 
 and as it is a fea-port, here is a cufrom-houfe, called The 
 King's Ho ufe, with a collector, comptroller, land furveyor, 
 tide- fur veyor, two land waiters, and four tide-waiters 
 
 For the guidance of veffels into the harbour, in a room 
 over the chief gate there is a light kept every night with a 
 coaKfire, to which anfwers a light-houfe on the town-green 
 below the cliff, with lamps fupplied with oil. By means 
 of them Chips are conduced clear of a fand called The An* 
 drews, into the rolling grounds, where there is gooi an- 
 chorage. 
 
 Thefliorteft and fafeft paflage between England and Hol- 
 land being from this port, it brings a confiderable number 
 of travellers this way, efpecialiy in time of war; for whofe 
 conveniency, and the carrying of the mails, there are four 
 packet-boats, and in war time t mo Dover packet-boats. King 
 William, and King Geotge the Firft and Second, ufuaily 
 embarked and landed at this place, in their journies to and 
 from Holland and Hanover. 
 
 Here is a good yard for building fhips, with ftore-houfes, 
 cranes, launches, and other necellaries. — Trie town -hall and 
 gaol were lately pulled down, and re-built with brick; and 
 the private buildings, and pavement of the ftreets, are of late 
 years much improved. 
 
 The fifhery here is fo much increafed of late years, that 
 there are now upwards of fixty fifliing floops belonging to this 
 town, of about fifty tons burthen. The cojperas works, 
 which were formerly carried on here, have been dropped for 
 fjme yearSj and very little copperas is now picked up here ; 
 
 neither 
 
2jo , ESSEX, 
 
 neither are there many lobfters taken on the fhore, as for- 
 merly. But a number of fiOiing (loops from hence are em* 
 ployed to fetch lobiters from Norway to London, and other 
 markets, each of them bringing on an average about twelve 
 or fourteen thoufand on a fingle voyage, and mo ft of them 
 making two voyages from hence between February and July, 
 As many* or rather a larger number of vefTels, fail every 
 winter from hence to the Dogger Bank, and there fiiTi for 
 Dogger cods, which are very large and much efteemed. 
 This fiihery, 'till within thefe few years, was not much un- 
 der flood by our fifiiermen ; but they are now become 
 fo expert therein, that hopes are entertained of eftablifhing 
 the turbot-trade here likewife, which will be a great fav- 
 ing to the nation, as the Dutch carry a great quantity of 
 ready fpecie from the London markets every feafon, for thac 
 kind of fifli. 
 
 Part of a Roman caflra, or camp, dill remains at Har- 
 wich ; and here and there are found mutilated parts of a 
 large (tone pavement, which are fuppofed to be fufficient 
 proofs of its having been a Roman military way j or, in the 
 Saxon ftile, a Stane-Jireet. Several coins have been found 
 here ; and a teflelated pavement was alfo difcovered, and a 
 wall pulled down about twenty years ago, builc entirely of 
 Roman materials. — At a Roman caftle called by Camden, 
 Walton^ otherwife Felixjlow- Gajile^ many fragments of urns, 
 and other antiquities, have been dug up. An elephant's tooth, 
 was likewife found near the remains of this caftle ; and it is 
 faid that more of them have been found in Hirwich cliff, 
 which were probably buried there by the Romans, Dion 
 Caffius fays, that elephants were brought into Britain by 
 Claudius, who landed his army in Kent, and croffed the 
 Thames with it into EjtTex, where he conquered the natives. 
 This happened in the year 43 ; So that thefe teeth are fup- 
 pofed to have lain in the earth one thoufand leven hundred 
 years. 
 
 Harwich church is only a chapel of eafe to the mother 
 church at Dover-court, It was founded by Roger Bigod, 
 Earl of Norfolk. - — Harwich fends two members to parlia- 
 ment.-— Here are two fairs held, one on the feaft of St* Phi- 
 lip and St. James, and the other on the feaft of M. Luke the 
 Lvangehft. 
 
 Dover^Court is a mile diftant from Harwich. In this pa- 
 rifti grow ftrong knotted and crooked elms, famous for their 
 
 feveral 
 
ESSEX. 231 
 
 feveral ufes in hufbandry, which are faid to be very durable, 
 and to wear like iron. Here are two fairs held, one on the ift 
 of May, and another on the 18th of October. 
 
 Saffron Walden is a large and populous town, fever* 
 miles from Thaxted, and forty-three from London, The 
 neighbouring fields were formerly chiefly appropriated to the 
 cultivation of faffron, from which circumftance it derived 
 part of its name; but that plant is now chiefly cultivated 
 more weflward, in and about the confines of Cambridgefhire. 
 Saffron is faid to have been firft brought into Eflex in the 
 reign of King Edward theThird ; and Eflex and Cambridge- 
 fhire faffron is accounted the beft in the world. There is a 
 great deal of the malting- bufinefs carried on at Saffron- Wal- 
 den : Here islikewifea manufacture for bolting cloths, and 
 for checks and fuftains. Many of the poor are employed in 
 the making of facks, and in (pinning of fine yarn for the 
 manufactories in Norwich* Many of the inhabitants are 
 diflenters, who have a meeting- houfe for the independents, 
 another for the Baptifts, and a third for the Quakers. It 
 has a large market weekly on Saturday, and two fairs an- 
 nually ; one on the Sunday in Mid-Lent, for horfes, &c. and 
 the other on the firft of November, for cows, Sec. 
 
 The church is an ancient and {lately ftrudiure, fituated 
 nearly in the centre of the town. On the fouth-fide of the 
 chancel are fteps which lead to a vault, the burial pLce of 
 the Suffolk family. The remains of fix Earls of Suffolk 
 are depofited here, and of others of the fame noble family. 
 And under the fouth arch of the chancel is an elegant aitar 
 monument, erected to the memory of Lord Audley, High 
 Chancellor of England, in the reign of King Henry tha 
 Eighth. 
 
 There was a priory founded here in 1136, by Geoffrey dc 
 Mandeville, Earl of Eflex; and in the year 1190 it was con- 
 verted into an abbey. The fite of it was near chc great pond 
 by the bowling-green at Saffron-Walden, where foundations 
 and bones have been dug up. 
 
 Waltham-Abbey, or Waltham Holy-Cross, is 
 twelve miles from London, and is fituated on the eaft fide of 
 the river Lea, which here dividing, inclofes fome iflands with 
 fine meadows, and parts Eflex from Hertfordfhire, and this 
 
 place 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 place from Waltham Crofs, or Weft Waltham. The firft 
 mention which is made of this place by ancient writers, is 
 about the latter times of the Saxons ; when it appears that 
 Tovi,amanof great wealth and authority, ftandard-bearer 
 to King Canute, induced by the abundance of deer, built a 
 number of houfes here, and peopled them with fixty-fix in- 
 habitants. King Edward the ConfefTor, into whofe hands it 
 afterwards came, beftowed this place upon his brother-in- 
 law Harold, fon to Earl Godwin, who built an abbey here, 
 from whence the place derives its prefent name. Tovi had 
 begun a church here for two priefts, and committed, to their 
 keeping a miraculous crofs, faid to have been difcovered in a 
 vifion to a carpenter far weftward, and brought hither in a 
 manner unknown : which was reported to work many won- 
 ders* On account of that crofs, this place is faid to have ob* 
 tained the name of Holy Crofs. 
 
 After Harold became poffeffed of it, in the year 1062* he 
 founded here a college for a dean, and eleven fecular canons, 
 in memory of King Edward, his Queen Edith, his father and 
 mother, and all his other relations ; and endowed it with 
 Weft Waltham, and fixteen other manors. Many other very 
 confiderable grants were afterwards made to this monaftery, 
 and it was alio endowed with very great and fpecial privileges 
 and immunities. However, it appears that the foundation 
 tor a dean and canons was of no longer continuance than 
 from the year 1062 to 1 177. For the court of Rome having 
 formed the defign of introducing into all convents monks in- 
 fiead of feculars^ under pretence that the latter lived more ir- 
 religioufly and carnally than the others, King Henry the Se- 
 cond converred this college into a monaftery for an abbot, 
 and fixteen monks of the order of St. Auguitine. His prin- 
 cipal motive for fo doing, appears to have been the laving 
 his money \ for, in order to pacify the Pope, having vowed 
 to ere£t an abbey for canons regular, to the honour of God 
 and St. Thomas a Becket, for the expiation of his fins, it 
 was much cheaper for him to make a fmall change in this, 
 than to erect a new one. However, from this time till the 
 difiolution of monafteries, it continued an abbey for Auftin 
 monks. Its abbots, who were mitred, and had the twentieth 
 place in parliament, lived in a moft fplendid but hofpitable 
 manner ; and were frequently vifited by King Henry the 
 Third when he was reduced, and obliged to carry his family 
 
 about 
 
m 
 
ESSEX* 
 
 about for a dinner. The abbey was at the diflblution be- 
 flowed by King Henry the Eighth on Sir Anthony Denny, 
 one of his favourites, and gentleman of his bedchamber; but 
 the manor of Waltham is at prefent in the pofleflion of Sit 
 William Wake, Bart* 
 
 This abbey was a curious, large,and antique ftru&ure ; the 
 whole front a few years ago was entirely rebuilt with brick 
 and /lone, after a modern and beautiful form by Charles 
 Wake Jones, Efq* and on each fide front it had a wing. The 
 hall was exceedingly handfome, being remarkable for its curi- 
 ous wainfcotting and excellent paintings* In length it mea- 
 sured fixteen yards and half, in breadth eight yards and half, 
 and in height nine yards and a foot. It was encompalfed with 
 many fertile paftures, and pleafant meads and marfhes. The 
 fpacious garden belonging to it was furrounded by a beautiful 
 canal : the garden, which was very delightful, contained a 
 variety of plants and fruits, fine groves and walks; and,, in 
 fhort, every thing that was necefiary to render it agreeable. 
 But the fine tulip-tree that is here muft not be forgotten, it 
 being efteemed the largeft that ever was feen. This tree is 
 ftill left, and is encompaffed by a paling. But the houfe was 
 pulled down in lj}0, and the gardens are now let to a gar- 
 dener. 
 
 Waltham abbey-church is a Gothic edifice, rather large 
 than neat, firm than fair, and very dark. The great pillars 
 are wreathed with indentings, which are fa id to have been 
 formerly filled up with brafs. To the fouth fide of the church 
 adjoins a chapel (now converted into a fchool), and formerly 
 called Our Ladys^ becaufe there was founded in it a chantry 
 of that name; and under it is a very fair arched charnel- 
 houfe. The whole was formerly well leaded, but is now 
 tiled. In the middle ftood the tower, cathedral-wife. Part 
 of it falling down foon after the furrender of the abbey, pro- 
 bably in pulling down the chancel and choir, a wall was run 
 up at the eaft end of the church ; and a handfome tower was 
 ere&ed at the weft end, eighty-fix feet in height from the 
 foundation to the battlements. This was begun in the year 
 * 558, at the charge of the parifliioners ; and three years were 
 employed in the building it. Every year's work is difcern- 
 able by the difference in the {tones ; and the parifh was obliged, 
 in order to raife money to complete the building, to fell their 
 bells, which before hung in a wooden frame in the church- 
 
 Vol.I. 2 G yard; 
 
*34 ESSEX. 
 
 yard ; fo that Waltham, which had formerly bells without a 
 fteeple, had for fome time a fteeple without bells. There are 
 now fix bells. 
 
 The founder, King Harold, was buried in the church, with 
 his two brothers, Girth and Leofwine. Since the demoli- 
 tion of the chancel, or of a chapel thereto adjoining, the 
 place of his fepulchre is within the garden of the lord of the 
 manor. Over his grave lay a grey marble ftone, with a croft 
 carved upon it, and a Latin epitaph, which has been thus 
 tranflated : 
 
 €€ A fierce foe thee ilevv ; thou a King, he a King in view : 
 
 ** Both peers, both peerlefs ; both fear'd, and both fearlefs : 
 
 4t That fad day was mixt by Firmin and Calixt ; 
 
 " Th' one help'd thee to vanquifh, t'other made thee to languifti. 
 
 * i Both now for thee pray, and thy requiem fay ; 
 
 u So let good men all to God for thee call." 
 
 The laft account we have of this tomb-ftone, is, that it 
 was at Waltham-mill, and feen there by Dr. Uvedell, of 
 Enfield. Towards the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign, King 
 Harold's coffin was difcovered by one Tomkins, gardener to 
 Sir Edward Dinny, being of a hard ftone, (and covered with 
 another) wherein the bones lay in proper order,, without any 
 kind of dirt, but upon the touch mouldered into duft. 
 
 A decent meeting boufe was erefled here in 1729, for Pro- 
 teftant Diffenters. There ar6 alfo here four alms-houfes, 
 founded for four widows by Mr* Green, purveyor to King 
 James the Firft, with an orchard and a barn adjoining, the 
 rent of which is payable to the faid widows. Upon the alms- 
 houfes' is the following infcription, the fentiments of which 
 dcfsrveto be attended co, whatever may bethoughtof the poetry. I 
 
 <c Birth is a pain, life, labour, care, toil, thrall ; 
 
 li In old age ftrength fails ; laftly, death ends all. 
 
 " Whilil itronglire laft, let virtuous deeds be mown ; 
 
 <c Fruit of fuch trees are thereby hardly feen or known. 
 
 c< To have reward with lafling joys, for ay 
 
 < 6 When vicious actions fall to ends decay. 
 
 ** Of wealth o'erplus, land, money, ltock, or (lore, 
 
 €e In life that will relieve aged, neeay, poor, 
 
 <c Good deeds defer not till the fun'ral rits be pair. ; 
 
 ff. In Lfe time what's done, is made more fure, firm, faft ; 
 
 ** So ever after it mail be known and feen 
 
 ¥ The leaf and fruit ihall everfpring freih and green. \6zS" 
 
 In 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 In the eaftern extremity of the parifh, partly in it, and 
 partly in that of Epping, by the fide of Copped Hall Park, 
 is a fine old camp, inclofing eleven acres, two roods, and 
 twenty perches, commonly called Amber's Bank* The new 
 road from Debdon Gieen to Epping goes through it, Mr. 
 Morant is of opinion, that the decifive battle between Boa* 
 dicea and the Romans was fought hereabouts, 
 
 Harold's Park* fo named from Earl Harold, part of whofe 
 demefnes it was, and given by him to Walthani Abbe tf , is 
 about three miles north-eaft of the church. 
 
 The town of W altham Abbey is built moftly of timber ; it 
 is very irregular and inconvenient, and makes but a mean ap- 
 pearance | the chief houfe in it is that of James Barwick, 
 Efq. The market-place is fmall, and the market, which is 
 held on Tuefdays, is well provided with grain, and noted for 
 fine veal, pork, and pigs. Here are two fairs annually ; one 
 on the 14th of May, and the other on September 25, 26 j 
 which la ft was formerly held for feven days* 
 
 On one fide of this town are large and beautiful meadows, 
 fome of which are ufed in common to the town. Thefe 
 meadows in the time of King Alfred, in the year 876, laid 
 under water, which great water was then navigable. That 
 truly great King (who really was, what fome later Kings 
 have only pretended to be, the father of his people) divided 
 the grand flreams of the river Lea into feveral rivuiets, by 
 which means fome Danifli fhips which lay here for fecurity, 
 became water-bound, and their mariners were obliged to fhift 
 for themfelves over-land -> which proved a greac check to the 
 ravages of the Danes. 
 
 A new navigable river hath lately been cut here. It takes 
 its rife at a place called Ives's Ferry* in Hertfordfhire, where 
 it is fupphed from the old river Lea, and extends through part 
 of the town of Waltham Abbey, Endfield, Edmonton, and 
 Hackney-Marfhes, Bromley, Limehoufe, and Dick-Shore, 
 emptying itfelf into the Thames. The chief utility of 
 which is, that the navigation to Waltham Abbey is ihortened 
 about ten miles, and the expenhve delay of trie crafc in the: 
 Thames by eatterly winds, is in a great meafure avoided. 
 Thefe rivtrs a fiord plenty of fifh, fome ialmon-trout, eels, 
 carp, tench, pike, perch, craw-fith, and many others. 
 
 Isiear the town, on one of thefe rivers, are feveral curious 
 gun-powder-mills, upon a new conftruction, worked by 
 
 2 G 2 water, 
 
236 ESSEX. 
 
 water, the old ones having been worked by horfes , Thefe are 
 reckoned the moft compleat in England, and will make near 
 an hundred barrels weekly for the fervice of government, each 
 barrel containing one hundred weight. They are now the 
 property of Boucher Walton, Efq. 
 
 On the north fide of the town callico-printing is carried 
 pn with great fpirit. The wool-combing bufinefs is alfo car- 
 ried on here ftill ; but not in fo extenfive a manner as it was 
 formerly. 
 
 The learned Dr. Jofeph Hall, afterwards bifhop of Exeter 
 andNorvvichj was minifter of this parifh: as alfoDr. Thomas 
 Fuller, author of The Church Hi/lory of Britain^ The Wor- 
 thies of England^ &c. 2nd who was fo famous for the extra- 
 ordinary ftrengthof his memory, 
 
 Epping lies eafi>north*eafl of Waltham Abbey, and is 
 feventeen miles from London, It is divided into two parts, 
 namely, Upland^ where the church is fituated ; and Townfede % 
 where the town ftands. It confifts chiefly of inns and public- 
 hcufes, the (hops being few in number, jufi fufficient to fup- 
 ply the town and neighbourhood with common neceflaries. 
 It is near a mile in length, extending almoft due eail and 
 weft, A market is held here weekly on Fridays, and its 
 principal commodities are fowls and butter, it being parti- 
 cularly famous for she latter, much of which is carried from 
 hence to London. The buildings in the town are but indif- 
 ferent | and here is a church and a brick chapel, the latter in 
 a miferable condition, at which and the church, divine fer- 
 vice is performed alternately. Here is a Diflenting mecting- 
 houfe, and alfo a Quaker's meeting. The church ftands 
 pleafantly on a rifing ground, is of one pace with the chancel, 
 and of an uncommon length. It has of late been repaired 
 and beautified, and is extremely neat. 
 
 Chjeping Ongar is a fmall town, fituated on the river 
 RocSing, eight miles from Epping, and twenty-one from Lon- 
 don. It confifts chiefly of one fireet of pretty good houfes, 
 but has been a market town for many } ears, on which ac- 
 count here are fome good inns. The market is kept weekly 
 on Saturdays. The traffic of this town, except on marked 
 days, is but trifling, and at thofe times is not very confidera- 
 ble» Here $re two fairs annually* the one on Eafter-Tuefday* 
 
 the 
 
ESSEX, 
 
 the othar the day after the feafl of St. Michael, both of 
 which fairs are for toys and hiring of fervanrs. 
 
 This place in ancient records was called Ongar ad Cajlrum* 
 from a caftle built here by Richard de Lucy, wno was in- 
 truded with the office ot lieutenant of the kingdom in the 
 abfence of King Henry the Second in Normandy**. This 
 caftle was fituated on the top of an artificial hiil ? and fur- 
 rounded by a large moat, which, with feveral other moats, 
 compofedthe fortification; but the caftle growing ruinous, 
 was taken down in Queen Elizabeth's reign, and an hand- 
 fome brick edifice erecled in its room. But this building was 
 demolifhed by £dward Alexander, Efq» who in 744 erecled, 
 inftead of it, a large handfome fummer-houfe, embattled. It 
 Hands at a fmall diitance north eaft from the church, is fur- 
 rounded by a deep and wide mote, and afcended by a fteep 
 winding walk, arched over molt of the way with trees, 
 fhrubs, &c. The room is roofed by a beautiful dome leaded, 
 the top of which is afcended by a pair of fteps, and over the 
 embattiemrnt the fpeclator is preiented with a beautiful prof- 
 petft on all fides, 
 
 This place is fuppofed to have been of fome note before the 
 Saxons were matters here. The church is built partly of 
 Roman brick ; and feveral Roman foundations have been dif- 
 covered in this parifh, particularly in the church and church- 
 yard. 
 
 Brentwood, or Burntwood is a poft-town, eighteen 
 miles from London. It is pleafantly fituated upon a hill, af- 
 fords a plcafing profpect to the inhabitants, and of Jate is 
 greatly improved in its buildings. As it is on the high road 
 from London to Harwich, it is a great thoroughfare, and has 
 fome good inns in it. One of thefe, the Crown Inn, deferves 
 to be diftinguifhed for its antiquity. Mr. Simmonds, in his 
 Collections* fays, he was informed by the matter, who had 
 writings in his poflTeffion to prove it, that it had been an inn 
 for three hundred years with this fign ; that a family named 
 Salmon held it for two hundred years, and that there had Deen 
 eighty-mneowners, amongft which were an £arl of Oxford, 
 and an Earl of Effex. 
 
 Here 
 
 * This Richard de Lucy was alfo fheriff of EfTex and Hertfordfhire in 
 and corjttituted Juftice of England in u6«. The priory of Lefncs in 
 ftcnt was of h.s founding, where he entered himleif a canon reeular, and 
 uica there m 1179. a ' 
 
238 ESSEX. 
 
 Here is a good market weekly on Thursdays, and two fairs 
 yeariy for cattle and horfes, one on the i8th of July, and 
 the other on the 15th of October* Here is a grammar- 
 fchool, which was founded in 1557, by Sir Anthony Brown, 
 in which ail boys of this parifh, or any other parifh within 
 three miles of the fchool-houfe, are taught grammar learning 
 gratis. Sir Anthony alfo> founded five alms-houfes for five 
 Jingle poor perfons, three men and two women, 
 
 A chapel was founded at Brentwood about the year 1221, 
 which was dedicated to Thomas a Becket; and the perqui- 
 fites of the chaplain chiefly arofe from travellers upon the 
 road, and fuch as came out of devotion to Saint Thomas, as 
 that ambitious and turbulent prieft was ftiled in an age of 
 ignorance and fuperfiition. From hence it arofe, that a gate 
 in this parifh, in the way from Ongar, ftill retains the name 
 of Pilgrim's Hatch. Divine fervice is now kept up in this 
 chapel for the conveniency of the inhabitants of Brentwood, 
 the parifh church of South Weald, to which Brentwood be- 
 longs, being near two miles diftance. 
 
 Rumford is fix miles from Brentwood, and twelve from 
 London, and is governed by a bailiff and wardens, who are 
 by patent impowered to hold a weekly court for the trial of 
 tieafons, felonies, debts, &c. and to execute offenders. It is 
 pretty large, and confifts chiefly of one ftreet, near half a 
 mile in length, at the upper part of which is held a market 
 every Tuelday for live calves j every Wednefday a general 
 market ; and in the winter feafon, on Monday, a market for 
 live hogs. Here is a fair annually upon Midfummer Day, 
 for cattle and horfes. About the middle of the town Hands 
 a good market-houfe and a town-hall. This isapoft-town, 
 and the greatefl thoroughfare in the county. Here is a cha- 
 pel, which ftands nearly in the centre of the town, and is a fpa- 
 cious ftone building* In Rumford-ftreet, near the turnpike, 
 is a charity fchooi, which was erected by fubfcription in 
 1710. It is a neat brick building, in which forty boys and 
 twenty girls are educated. 
 
 Barking is the neareft market-town in this county to 
 London, from which it is only nine miles diltance, and feven 
 from Rumford. The town is of confiderable extent, and 
 chiefly inhabited by fifhermen, whofe boats, called fmacks, lie 
 
 at 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 239 
 
 at the mouth of the river Thames, from whence their fifli is 
 fent up to Billingfgate. The ma ket is held on Saturdays; 
 and a fair is held here annually on the 226 of Q&ober, for 
 horfes. It was to this place that King William the Con- 
 queror retired, foon after his coronation, till he had erected 
 forts in London to awe the inhabitants of that city. 
 
 At this place Erkenwald, the fourth bifhop of London, 
 founded the fecond nunnery of the Saxons in Englandf , in 
 the year 666. It was of the order of St. Benedict, and de- 
 dicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Ethelburga, the firft 
 abbefs, (fifterto the founder) who, with her fucceffor, was 
 canonized. It ftood on the north fide of the church-yard* 
 One gate and part of the wall is (till remaining, 
 
 The manor of Barking, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, 
 belonged to Sir William Hewett, who was lord mayor of 
 London in 1589, and concerning whom the following ftory 
 is related. Sir William lived upon London-Bridge, and had 
 an infant daughter. One of his maids playing with the child 
 out of a window over the river Thames, by chance dropped 
 her in, almoft beyond expectation of being faved, A young 
 gentleman, named Edward Ofborne, then apprentice to Sir 
 William, at this calamitous accident jumped in boldly, and 
 faved the child : in memory of whi<*h deliverance, and in- 
 gratitude, her father afterwards beftowed her in marriage 
 to the faid Mr. Ofborne, with a very great dowry. Several 
 perfons of quality courted the young lady, and particularly 
 - the Earl of Shrewfbury ; but hit William Hewett faid, 
 ct Ofborne faved her, and Ofborne fhall enjoy her." This 
 Mr, Ofborne was anceftor to the prefent Duke of Leeds. 
 
 The parifh of Barking is large, and fo much improved by 
 lands recovered from the Thames and the river Roding, that 
 the great and fmall tythes are computed at above fix hundred 
 pounds a year.— A little beyond this town, towards Da^en- 
 ham, flood a great old houfe, where the gunpowder plot is 
 faid to have been contrived. 
 
 Ingatestone is a market-town, fix miles from Chelms- 
 ford, and twenty- three from London. It coniifts chiefly of 
 inns, bting a poft-town, and the great thoroughfare td Nor- 
 folk, Suffolk, Harwich, and Coicheiter. A confi Jerable 
 
 market 
 
 ■f Folkftone nunnery was the firft, which was founded thirty-fix years 
 before. 
 
240 ESS E X, 
 
 market for live cattle is held here every Wednefday ; and a 
 very large fair is annually held here on th* iff of December, 
 the principal commodity of which is alfolive cattle. 
 
 Witham is a neat and pleafant town, about thirty-feven 
 miles from London, and between eight and nine from Chelms- 
 ford, It is a poft-town, and contains fo ne good inns, it 
 has a market for grain on Tuefdays, and two fairs are held 
 here annually, one on the Monday, before Whitfunday, and 
 the other on the 14th of September. Edward, the fon of 
 King Alfred, commonly called Edward the Elder, built this 
 town in the beginning of his reign, and refided at Maiden 
 during the time it was building. — Witham church ftands 
 upon an eminence, about half a mile weft from the town. The 
 walls both of the church and fteeple are of Roman flint, ex- 
 cept the top of the tower, which is brick. There are foms 
 monuments in the church, two of which are ancient. 
 
 Cogge shall is a market-town, about feven miles from 
 Witham, and forty-four from London. It ftands partly on 
 the declivity of a hill, is pleafantly fituated, and is pretty 
 large and populous, Here is a market on Thurfdays for corn, 
 and an annual fair on Whitfun Tuefday* The church is a 
 fpacious and lofty edifice, and ftands pleafantly at the upper 
 end of the town, having a good profpeci Southward. 
 
 Hereabouts have been found the remains of fome ancient 
 little Roman ftation, or villa, adjoining to the road which 
 leads to the town. An arched vault of brick was d.fcdvered, 
 and in it a burning lamp of glafs, covered with a Roman tile 
 about fourteen inches fquare, and an urn with allies and 
 bones, and other antiquities. 
 
 An abbey was founded here in the year 1 142, by King 
 Stephen and Queen Maud, for Ciftertian or White Monks, 
 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary* The remains of the 
 abbey fhnd within the precincts of Little Coggefhali, near 
 the river : it was a Gothic edifice, but is now moftly demo- 
 lifhed. 
 
 Braintree is about fix miles from Coggefhali, and forty 
 from London, and is a great thoroughfare from London into 
 Suffolk and Norfolk. The buildings are moftly old, and of 
 timber, but improved of late. Hece is a market every Wed- 
 nesday, 
 
ESSEX. 241 
 
 nefday, well fupplied with all kinds of neceflaries, and at 
 which vaft quantities of corn, malt, and hops, are fold v 
 fample. Two fairs are held here annually ; one on the 2d 
 of October, which holds three days 5 and the other on the 
 8th of May, which lafts the fame time 5 the principal traffic 
 of which is live cattle, butter, and cheefe. 
 
 Dunmow is a very ancient town, fituated pleafantly on a 
 hill, at the diftance of forty miles from London. The trade 
 of this place is inconfiderable, but a manufacture of baize 
 and blankets is carried on here. In the centre of the town 
 Hands what is called the market-crofs, which is a very an* 
 cientedifice ; and over againft this is the guildhall, in which 
 the town officers meet to tranfact the corporation bufinefs. 
 The market isonSaturday,and here are two fairs held for toys 
 only, one of which is on the 6th of May, and the other on 
 the 8th of November* The church ftands near a mile north 
 from the main ftreet, in a bottom, and is a large neat building. 
 
 Thaxted is an ancient town, fix miles from Dunmow, 
 and forty-two from London* There is but little trade in 
 this place ; but here are two fairs annually, one held on the 
 10th of Auguft, and the other on the Sunday after the Af- 
 cenfion. This town is chiefly remarkable for its church, 
 which is the fined in the county. It is a noble Gochic build- 
 ing; and the length of it is an hundred and eighty-three 
 feet, and the breadth eighty-feven feet, in the infide, exclufive 
 of the thicknefs of the walls and the projection of the but- 
 treffes : it is three hundred and forty-five yards in circum- 
 ference, is built cathedral-wife, wich a crofs ifle, and confifts 
 of a fpacious and lofty body, with north and fouth ifles. 
 At the weft end ftands a noble tower, and fpire, all of free- 
 ftone, the perpendicular height of which, from the fummit 
 of the vsuie to the ground-fluor is fixty yards and one foot. 
 
 Halstead is a pleafant and healthy town, at the diftance 
 of forty-feven miles from ,i~ondon, fituated on the fide of a 
 hill*, the foot of which is watered by the river Colne. There 
 are many hops produced here, for the excellency of which 
 this town is famous ; and a manufactory for bdiz- is eftab- 
 lilhed here, A market is held here every Friday, and two 
 fairs annually, one on the 6th of May, and the other on the 
 
 Vol, I. ' a H 29th 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 29th of O&ober, for cattle, hops, and toys. Here is a gram- 
 mar-fchool which was founded in the reign of Queen Eli- 
 zabeth. 
 
 Dedham is fituated feven miles from Colchefter and fifty- 
 feven miles from London. This was anciently a famous 
 cloathing town, fo early as the reign of King Richard the 
 Second ; and the baize trade extended into it afterwards, but 
 is now greatly upon the decline. The town is tolerably well 
 built, and there are fome very large houfes in it. Here is a 
 grammar-fchoolj the governors of which were incorporated 
 by a charter granted by Queen Elizabeth ; and that princefs 
 particularly enjoined the parents of the boys who were edu- 
 cated at this fchool, that they Chould furnifh their fons with 
 bows, {hafts, bracers and gloves, in order to train them to 
 arms,— -Dedham church is a handfome and fpacious building 5 
 and the roof of an arch underneath the fteeple is finely 
 adorned with the arms of the two families of York and Lan- 
 cafter, and red and white rofes ; and at the eaft fide of the 
 battlements there is a ftatue of Margaret Countefs of Rich- 
 mond, and coronets all round. 
 
 Manning-Tree is a market-town at the diftance of fixty 
 miles from London. It is fituated on the fouth fide of the 
 river Stour, and a confiderable trade is carried on here in deals, 
 coals, iron, and corn; and from hence the beft whitings, and 
 a quantity of other filh, are carried to Colchefter. The 
 market is held here on Thurfday, and here is a fair on the 
 15th of June. Manning-Tree church is a neat edifice, and 
 was built at the expence of the late Richard Rigby, Efq. 
 
 Maiden is a very ancient town, at the diftance of thirty- 
 feven miles from London. It ftands on an eminence or fide 
 of a hill, fouth of Biackwater Bay. It confifis of one wide 
 ftreet, extending from weft to eaft near a mile, which is 
 crofted near the top by another. On the weft fide of this 
 town are the remains of a camp, through the middle of which 
 is the road to Chelmsford : three fides of the fortifications 
 are v»fible 5 being a (quare or oblong, inclofing about twenty- 
 two acres ; the reft is built upon and defaced, The bay here 
 makes a convenient harbour for fliips, and the merchants carry 
 on a confiderable trade in coal, iron, deals, and corn. Mai- 
 den 
 
E S S E X, 
 
 den has fent burgefles to parliament from the third year of 
 the reign of Edward the Third. The market here is on 
 Saturday, and a fair is held here three weeks before Michael- 
 mas, and another on Lady-day and two days after. 
 
 A fliopkeeper of this town, whofe name was Edward 
 Bright was rendered famous by his extraordinary bulk and 
 weight. He is mentioned in The Philofophical Tranfaflions y 
 and prints were publifoed of him. Another inftance of fo 
 vaft a fize is fcarcely to be met with in ancient or in modern 
 hiftory. At the age of twelve years he weighed one hun- 
 dred and forty-four pounds ; at nineteen he weighed three 
 hundred and thirty-fix pounds; about thirteen months before 
 he died, his neat weight was forty-one ftones and ten pounds, 
 or five hundred and eighty-four pounds 5 at the time of his 
 death he was manifeftly grown bigger fince his laft weighing, 
 in that proportion by which he had increafed on an average, 
 viz* of about two ftones a year j fo that he was nearly forty- 
 four ftones, or fix hundred and fixteen pounds, neat weight* 
 He meafured five feet nine inches and an half in height; his 
 body round his cheft was five feet fix inches, and round the 
 belly fix feet eleven inches. His arm in the middle was two 
 feet two inches about, and his leg two feet eight inches. 
 After his death feven men were buttoned in his waiftcoar. 
 He died in 1750, aged twenty-nine. He was anacliveman 
 till a year or two before his death, when his corpulency fo 
 over-powered his ftrength, that his life began to be a burthen 
 to him. He left a widow big with the fixth child. His cof- 
 fin was of an enormous fize, and they were obliged to cut a 
 way through the wall and ftaircafe, to let his corpfe down 
 into the (hop. It was drawn upon a carriage to the cburcn, 
 and let down into the vault by the heip of a Aider and pullies. 
 
 Rochford is a market town, at the diftance of forty-one 
 miles from London, and fituated on a fmall dream that 
 falls into the river Crouch. It gives its name to the hunr 
 dred in which it lies. The market is on Thurfday, and here 
 are two fairs annually, one on Eafter Tuefday, and the other 
 on the Wednefday after Michaelmas-day. 
 
 ht King's Hillj about half a mile north-eaft of Rochford 
 church, is held what is called The Lawlejs Court, a wnirniical 
 cuftom, the origin of which is not known. On the Wednef- 
 day morning next after Michaeimas-day, the tenants are 
 
 2 H 2 punub 
 
244 E S S £ X* 
 
 bound to attend upon the firft cock-crowing, and to kneel 
 
 and do their homage, without any kind of light but fuch as 
 the heavens will afford. The fteward of the court calb all 
 fuch as are bound to appear, with as Iowa < oice as pofliMe, 
 giving no notice when he goes to execute his office; however, 
 he that gives not an ai fwer dee* ly amerced They are all 
 to whifper to each other, nor have they any pen and ink, but 
 fupply that dt ficiency with a coal ; and he that owes fuit and 
 fervice, and appears not, forfeits to the lord of the manor 
 double his rent every hour he is abfent. A tenant of this 
 manor forne years %go forfeited his land for non-attendance^ 
 but was reftored to it, the lord only taking a fine. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c* 
 
 There are in the village of Wanfted, and in its neighbour^ 
 hood, feveral fine feats of the nobility, gentry, and wealthy 
 citizens ; but their luftre is greatly eclipfed by Wanftei 
 JJoufe, the magnificent feat of Earl Tylney. This noble 
 feat was prepared by Sir Jofias Child, who added to the ad- 
 vantage of a fine fituation, a vaft number of rows of trees, 
 planted in avenues and viftas,leading up to the fppt of ground 
 where the old houfe flood. The late L<ord Tylney, before hs 
 was ennobled, laid out the moft fpacious pieces of ground in 
 gardens that are to be feen in this part of England. 
 
 The green houfe is a very fuperb building, furnifhed with 
 ftoves and artificial places for heat, from an apartment which 
 has a bagnio, and other conveniencies, that render it both 
 ufeful and pleafant. 
 
 The houfe was built fince thefe gardens were fin ifhed, by 
 the late £ arl of Tylney, and defigned by Colonel Campbell, 
 and is certainly one of the nobleft houfes, not only near Lon- 
 don, but in the kingdom. It is two hundred and fixty feet in 
 length, and feventy in depth, fronted with Portland ftone. It 
 confifls of two ftories, the ftate and ground ftory. This lat- 
 ter is the bafement, into which you enter by a door in the 
 middle underneath the gfand entrance, which is a noble por- 
 tico of fix Corinthian columns fupporting a pediment, in 
 which are the arms of Lord Tylney. To this you afcend by 
 a flight of fteps, and pafs into a magnificent faloon, richly de- 
 corated with painting and fculpture, through which you pafs 
 
 into 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 into the other ftate rooms, which are fuirably furniflied with 
 pi&ur-s, gilding, velvet, tapeftry, and other rich hangings. 
 Before this hi.ufe is an octangular bafon, which kerns equal 
 to the length of the front. On each fide as you approach 'he 
 houfe, are r wo marhle ftatues of Hercules and Venus, with 
 obelifks and vafes alternately placed. The garden front has 
 no portico, but a pediment with a bafs relief fupported by 
 fix three quarter columns* 
 
 The fore from of the houfe has along vifta that reaches to 
 the great roa^ at I eight n Stone, and from the back front 
 faung the gardens »s an eafy defcent that leads to the terrace 
 and affords a moft beautiful prof peel of the river, which is 
 formed into canals; and beyond it the walks and wildernefs 
 extend to a great diftance, rifing up the hill, as they Hoped 
 downwards before; fo that the fight is loft in the woods, and 
 the whole country, as far as the eye can reach, appears one 
 continued garden. 
 
 The grand hall at Wan/red Houfe is fifty-three feet long, 
 by forty-five broad 5 the ornaments confift chiefly of two 
 large antique ftatues,on marble pedeftal , of Li via andDomi- 
 tian ; and three large piclures by Cafali, viz* Coriolanus, 
 Porfenna, and Pompey taking leave of his family. 
 
 The ball room, which runs the whole breadth of the houfe, 
 is feventy-five feet by twenty feven, and is very elegantly 
 fitted up with gilded ornaments of all kinds* 
 
 One of the dining rooms is ornamented with three large 
 pictures by Cafali, viz. Alexander directing Apelles to paint 
 Campafpe, who is fitting naked in a chair, the continence of 
 Scipio, and Sophonifoa caking poifon* 
 
 New Hall is now the property of Lord Waltham, and is 
 fituated in the parifh of Boreham, which is three miles from 
 Chelmsford. It is not certainly known by whom this edifice 
 was erected ; but it is fuppofed to have been built by Butler, 
 Earl of Ormond, in the reign of King fLnry the Seventh, 
 It was once made a place of royal residence by King Henry 
 the Eighth, who in 1^24. kept the feaft of St* George here. 
 It afterwards ca-T>e into the poffeffion of George Monk, Duke 
 of Albemarle, famous fo; Me fhare he had in bringing about 
 the Reftoration, who lived h.re in =;rea' pomp. 
 
 The late Lord Waltham took down a confiderable part of 
 this great edifice, and yet referved enough of it to make a 
 
 nobie 
 
246 ESSEX. 
 
 noble and commodious country feat for himfelf, to which he 
 added feveral new offices. It muft indeed, in its primitive 
 grandeur, have been a houfe of extraordinary fize, if what is 
 very confidently faid be true, namely, that what is now left 
 is only one tenth part of the original building* 
 
 The great hall is one of the nobleft in the kingdom. At 
 the entrance of it the beholder is ftruck with its grandeur, is 
 being upwards of forty feet high, ninety in length, and fifty 
 wide. Oppofite to the grand entrance is another door, which 
 formerly led into a fpacious court : over this are the arms of 
 Henry the Eighth, done in baffb relievo in free-ftone, and 
 Well executed. 
 
 The prefent Lord Waltham has greatly improved this feat, 
 and has laid out the gardens and park with much tafte j he 
 has alfo made a noble piece of water in the new gardens be- 
 hind the houfe, and ere&ed near it a good green~houfe. He 
 has likewife added to the other buildings a new wing for 
 ftables and coach-houfes. The avenue which leads from the 
 great road to the houfe is near a mile long, and has double 
 rows of lofty trees on each fide. It is reckoned the fineft in 
 England, and gives a very venerable air to this magnificent 
 manfion. 
 
 Richard Hoare, Efq. an eminent banker. in London, has 
 alfo a fine feat in the parifhof Eoreham. It is beautifully 
 fituated at the top of an avenue of trees, between which is a 
 fine piece of water, extending from the road nearly to the 
 houfe. The houfe itfelf is not very large, but of an elegant 
 conftru&ion, built of white brick: the infide is adorned 
 with marble chimney-pieces, and other decorations, the fpoils 
 of the ancient manfion of New Hall, The gardens are pret- 
 tily difpofed behind it ; from thefe runs a delightful lawn 
 down to the banks of the Chelmer, which, together with 
 Danbury Hill, and various other beautiful objects that here 
 meet the eye, furmfti a moft agreeable landfcape. 
 
 About a mile fouth of Saffron-Walden is Audley Houfe^ 
 ©r, as it is more frequently called, Audley End, which is at 
 prefent the feat of Sir John Griffin Griffin. It was built by 
 Thomas Lord Audley, of Walden, who was created Earl of 
 Suffolk by King James the Firit, to whom he was treafurer. 
 The Eari defigned it as a palace for his Majefty, and when it 
 
 was 
 
ESSEX. 247 
 
 wasfinifhed prefented it to him 5 but the King, when he faw 
 its vaft extent and magnificence, faid, that 4 it would fuit 
 * very well a Lord Treasurer, but was too much for a K ng.' 
 It remained therefore in the pofleffion of the Earls of Suf- 
 folk during that and the fucceeding reign ; but it was after- 
 wards purchafed by King Charles the Second ; who, not 
 being able to pay for it, mortgaged the hearth tax to the then 
 Earls, as a fecurity for the money. This tax was taken off 
 foon after the revolution, but the ftate not being then in a 
 condition to pay the money for which it had been pledged, 
 the houfe was granted back again to the family. It was then 
 the largeft royal palace in the kingdom. The expence of 
 erecting it is faid to have amounted to one hundred and ninety 
 thoufand pounds. The mere model of it in wood is faid to 
 have coft five hundred pounds. It confifted of two courts, one 
 of which, and part of the other, including a gallery two hun- 
 dred and twenty-fix feet Jong, thirty-two wide, and twenty- 
 four high, were taken down by Henry Earl of Suffolk be- 
 tween feventy and eighty years ago. The part of it which 
 is now remaining is only a fourth of its original extent. 
 Before the weft front of it are many lawns, rifing to the 
 view, and watered by the river Cam, cut in the form of a 
 fine canal, over which are two eiegant bridges. Theeaft 
 front commands an extenfive park, walled in, and a view of 
 the church and town of Saffron Walden. The fouth fide 
 looks into a curious piece of clumped pleafure ground called 
 The Mount Garden ; and the north into a lawn, feveral plan- 
 tations, and a neighbouring village, 
 
 Anthony Bacon, Efq. has a good houfe, ftanding in a pad- 
 dock, about a mile and half eaft from Walthamftow church ; 
 and Thomas Grofvenor, Efq. has a fine old houfe half a mile 
 weft from the fame church. 
 
 A good houfe in the parifh of Wanjied y pleafantly fituated, 
 and having thirty acres of gardens, was built in 1690, by Sir 
 Francis Dafhwoodj and from him the eftate palled to Sir 
 Orlando Bridgrnan 5 but it is now the property of Humphry 
 Bowles, Efq, 
 
 hvWoodford Row, Richard Warner, Efq. has a fine gar- 
 den, with a labyrinth, adorned with feveral Greek infcriptions, 
 
 and 
 
2 4 8 ESSEX. 
 
 and other curiofitics } and Robert Moxam, Efq. has an ex* 
 ceeding good boufe at Woodford* called The Profpeft Hou/e, 
 a name which it derives from its fituation, which is remark-* 
 ably pleafant. 
 
 About a mile and a quarter fou*h weft of Chigwell church, 
 in a bottom, wafhed by the river Rodin, is Luxborough, a fine 
 feat belonging to John Raymond, Efq* 
 
 The manor of Barrington, now called Rolls, is about half 
 a mile north-eaft from Chigwell church. The manfioa 
 houfe to it is an elegant modern building, with extenfive 
 offices, and every conveniency fuitabe to render it a very 
 commodious and agreeable feat. It ftands upon the declivity 
 of a large hill, and is enriched with a fine profpeft. 
 
 Deux Hall, the feat of R. Lock wood, Efq, fituate in the 
 parifh of Lamborne, commands an extenfive profpedi. 
 
 Bijhop's Hall) in the fame parifh, is the feat of William 
 Waylet, Efq. It derives its name from its having been for- 
 merly the habitation of Henry Spencer, bifhop of Norwich, 
 in the reign of King Richard the Second, a prelate more ce- 
 lebrated for his military exploits than his learning and piety* 
 
 At a little diftance from Lamborne, in the parifh of Stapfo- 
 ford Abbots, Sir Anthony Thomas Abdy, Bart, has a fine 
 ftai known by the name of Ibyns. It is fuuated about half 
 a mile north from Stapleford church, and is furroiinded by 
 a fmall park. It is a large ftately edifice, and by forne thought, 
 to be erefled by Inigo Jones ; but Mr. Horace Walpole is of 
 opinion that this is a miftake. 
 
 Knowle, otherwife Knowles Hill, a mile fouth weft from 
 the church, is a pleafant fpot in this parifh, where Henry 
 Spencer, bifhop of Norwich, (of whom we juft made men- 
 tion) had alfo a feat. A piece of ground here, being a wood 
 of twelve acres, isftill called Bijhop's Moat, where is a moat, 
 reported to have been paved with marble. 
 
 In the adjoining parifh of Navejlock ftands Nave/lock Hall, 
 the feat of the Earl of Waldi giavc It is iituated a iutle way 
 north frtm li e church, is a handlome regular hnck building, 
 and has fo many advantages and decorations, both ct nature 
 
} 
 
 \ 
 
 1 
 
ESSEX 
 
 I and art, as renders it a very pleafing and elegant feat. The 
 gardens and grounds around it have been much improved by 
 Ltrd Waldegrave. 
 
 Kelvedon Hall, in the panfli of Kelvedon Hatch, is the 
 property of John Wright, Efq; and is a very elegant new- 
 built brick-houf£, with proper offices belonging to it ; and 
 Jikewife pleafant gardens, fome pieces of water, arid other de- 
 corations; but what contributes in the greateft meafure to 
 render this fpot delightful, is the rich and extenfive profpedt 
 that it commands; in which a part of London, although 
 full twenty miles diftant, is to be feen in a fine clear day by 
 the naked eye. 
 
 John Luther, Efq; has alfoafeat here caiieJ Aries's, about 
 a mile diftant from the church. 
 
 In Theydon Mount (a neighbouring parifh) is a fine feat, 
 known by the name of Hill Hall % which for elegance, and the 
 finenefsof its profpeCts, is elleemed inferior to few in the 
 county cf ElTex. This edifice was built by Sir Thomas 
 Smith, fecretary of fiate in 1548 It is a quadrangular, with 
 very thick and lofty w r al!s, adorned with columns in imitation 
 of ftone. The entrance to it is northward, aiong a [lately 
 avenue of great length and fuitable breadth, on each fide of 
 which are rows of ftately elms and other plantations. Great 
 alterations were made in it by Sir Edward Smith in the la ft 
 century, and more haye been made by its prefcnt owner, Sir 
 Charles Smith. 
 
 Cooper/ale is a capital feat, fituated about two miles north 
 of Theydon Gernon church. The houfe ftands upon the 
 declivity of a hill, on the right hand fide of the road to Lp- 
 ping. Around the houfe are a variety of beautiful lawns, vif- 
 toesj and other agreeable objects j but the profpecl is very 
 much confined. 
 
 In the parifh of Loughton arefeveral handfome villas, par- 
 ticularly that in which Captain Williams refides, on the left 
 hand fide of the road leading to London ; one belonging to 
 Sackville Boyle, Efq; at the bottom of Bucket Green ; and 
 another to Alexander Hamilton, Efq; upon Dedden Green. 
 Richard Lomax Clay, Efq; formerly high flienff or this 
 county, has an excellent houfe upon the lummit of Golden 
 
 Vol. I. 2 I Hill, 
 
250 ESSEX. 
 
 Hill, which commands an exceedingly rich and extenfive 
 profpeffc, in which thegreateft part of the city of London is 
 included; and Loughton Hall, though it is not a regular, is 
 a large handfome building, furrounded by a variety of beau- 
 tiful profpe&s. 
 
 About two miles from Waltham Abbey, in the road to Ep- 
 ping, is a beautiful feat, named Warieys, lately in the pofief- 
 lion of Mr. Carter, but now belonging to his two daugh- 
 ters. The houfe is ficuated in a bottom \ but the park, and 
 other obje&s about it, rife to the view, and form apleafing 
 profpeci. 
 
 Edward Parker, Efq; hasalfo a good houfe about a quarter 
 of a mile eaft from Waltham Abbey. 
 
 Copped Hall^ or Copt Hail, the feat of John Conyers, Efq; 
 is in the parifii of Epping. This is an eirgant and conve- 
 nient modern edifice, and is very agreeably fituated. The 
 gardens belonging to it isre well laid out, and here is a large 
 park. In the old houfe here was a ftately gallery fifty-fix 
 yards long, ereeled by Sir T homas Hencage, which was blown 
 down in November, 16393 by a violent hurricane. At this feat 
 was formerly a chape), wherein was placed the fine painted giafs 
 window from New Hall chapel, and which John Conyers, 
 Efq; fold to the parishioners of St. Margaret's, Weftminiter, 
 by whom it has been put up in the chancel of that church. 
 
 Near Cheping Ongar is the paufli of Greenfted, wherein 
 David Robotier, Efq; has an handfome feat, called Greenjied 
 Hall) which is fituated a little way eaft from the church. 
 
 In the parifh of Southweald Sir Thomas Parker, formerly 
 Lord Chief Baron of the Exchequer, has a pleafant feat. 
 
 The late Thomas Towers, Efq; lord of the manor, has 
 alio a very elegant feat near South Weald church, adorned with 
 rich plantations, handfome gardens, a good park, &c. in which 
 latter is built a profped houfe, in the form of a tower, em- 
 battled, affording a moft delightful view. 
 
 The Honourable Captain Hamilton has alfo an agreeable 
 feat in this parifh. 
 
 On Weald Side Common is a feat called Ditchlefs^ the 
 refidence of George Nicholk, Efqj adjoining to which is the 
 feat of Anthony Wright^ Efq. 
 
 At 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 At PiJgrim Hatch is DounfeWs the feat of Francis^Manby, 
 Efq. 
 
 Befides thefe, there are many very good houfes that cannot 
 be properly called feats, but which are either the refidence or 
 retirement of families of confiderable fortune. 
 
 Pirgois a fine feat belonging to Lord Archer, fituated near 
 Havering-at-Bower. The houfe is an ancient venerable 
 ftruclure, within a confiderable park, There is a fmall cha- 
 pel belonging to it. 
 
 About half a mile out of Romford, on the road leading to 
 Brentwood (lands Geddy Hall, the feat of Richard Benyon, 
 Efq; formerly Governor of Fort St. George. It is a noble 
 manfion, and is furrounded by a pleafant park and beautiful 
 gardens, plentifully watered by a fine cana!. 
 
 Cranham Hall> in the parifh of Cranham, four miles from 
 Romford, is an antique building, which is the refidence of 
 General Oglethorpe, famous for fettling the province of 
 Georgia, in North America. 
 
 In the parifh of Dagenham,at the diflance of fifteen miles 
 from London, the late Henry Muilman, Efq-, hadanhand- 
 fome feat. The building is of brick, fpacious, furrounded 
 by a park, and commanding an agreeable profpecl. 
 
 About four miles north from Berking church, Charles Ray- 
 mond, Efq; who was high fherifF for the county in 1771, has a 
 fine feat, named Valentines^ which has been termed a cabinet of 
 curtofities. The houfe is one of the neateft, and bed adapted 
 toitsfize, of any modern one in the county : its ornaments 
 are well chofen, and the grounds belonging to it laid out with 
 greatjudgement and talte, 
 
 Bamber Gafcoyne, Efq; has alfo a good houfe about a 
 quarter of a mile fouth-eaft from Berking church, named 
 BiffronS) which commands a fine profpecl, and behind it is a 
 pretty park. 
 
 There are feveral handfome feats in the parifh of Leyton, 
 belonging to wealthy citizens and other gentlemen, particu- 
 larly Goring Houfe, alfo called The Forejl Houfe, which is 
 
 2 I 2 loftily 
 
252 
 
 ESSEX. 
 
 loftily ftfuated fronting Epping forefl, and is the property of 
 Samuel Bofanquet, Efq. 
 
 The manor-houfe of Leyton, which is a fine feat, is the 
 property of Thomas B'aydon, Efq. 
 
 About a quarter of a mile north*eaft from the church, 
 Thomas Oliver, Efq; has. a beautiful feat, which formerly 
 belonged to Sir Fifiber Tench. It is a modern ftructure,, 
 adorned with large and delightful gardens, with plantations, 
 walks, groves, mounts, and canals, ftocked with fifh and 
 fowl. 
 
 The feat of Henry More, Efq; near half a mile weft from 
 the church, is a!fo very agreeably fituated. The houfe is 
 large and handfome, and the gardens and decorations belong* 
 ing to it are fuitable. 
 
 Green Street^ in the parifh of Eaft Ham, (late the feat of Sir 
 Nicholas Gerard, and now belonging to Mrs. Whitefide) was 
 once, it is faid, the habitation of an Earl of Weftmoreland, 
 and probably of L:dy Latimer. Tradition likewife fays, 
 that Queen Anne Boleyn was confined in a tower ftill (land- 
 ing; near the faid houfe. 
 
 Sir William Mildmay, Bart, has a very handfome feat in 
 this county, known by the name of Mouljham Hall. It is 
 pleafantly fituated on an eafy afcent, about a quarter of a mile 
 on the eaft fide of Chelmsford. The grand front commands 
 Danbury Hill. It is a very regular edifice, and on the top 
 of it are three flames, reprefenting Diana, Apollo, and Mer- 
 cury : under thefe are the family arms in bafio relievo, carved 
 in free-ftone. The other parts of the houfe have a view of 
 the London road, of the town, of Chelmsford, and of the 
 park and gardens, It was rebuilt by the late Earl of Fitz- 
 walter, and was fo conftrucled as to be at once elegant 
 and commodious. The pilafKrs, cornices, entablatures, and 
 ether decorations, are of Hone. In the infide is a quadran- 
 gular court flagged. It has a gallery on each floor round it, 
 by which means an eafy accefs is obtained to all the different 
 apartments, without the inconveniency of making any of 
 them a paffage. The principal rooms are large and well dif- 
 pofecl* The grand hall at the entrance is lofty, and the cieling 
 curioufly wrought with fret-work. — In the breakfaft room are 
 many pi&ures of the Mildmay family, fome of which are well 
 Executed. Among thefe is 'Sir William Mildmay, who was 
 
 Chancellor 
 
ESSEX. 253 
 
 Chancellor of the Exchequer in the reign of Queen Eliza- 
 beth, and founder of Emanuel College, GarnbrWge* — The 
 great picture room contains feveral family portraits; and here 
 is alfo a good piece of the old Duke of Schombergh oa 
 hcrfeback, attended by a black, who carries his helmet. — In 
 the little picture room contiguous to this, are fome good 
 paintings : on the right hand the door is feen an half length 
 of an old woman in a white hood, whofc difiorted features 
 fhew the utmoft diftrefs Upon her fhoulder a caterpillar is 
 feen crawling, which is faid not only to have caufed the violent 
 agitation apparent in her face, but ado her death. Here is 
 alfo an antique painting of Matilda, daughter to Lord Robert 
 Fitzwalter, who was faid to be poifoned in the abbey of Dun* 
 mow by King John. — And in another room here is a pi&ure 
 of one Sir Henry Mildmay, a branch of this family, reprefent- 
 ing him as dead and laid out, covered with a black velvet 
 pall. It is faid that he died abroad, and that a faithful fer- 
 vant, who accompanied him, employed a limner to draw him 
 after his deceafe. It is fo well done as to ftrike the beholder 
 with forne degree of horror ; and for this reafon has been re- 
 moved from the collection to an anti-chamber. — The gardens 
 belonging to this feat are neatly laid out, and here is alfo a 
 park prettily difnofed. 
 
 About three miles from Chelmsford is the parifli of Wid- 
 ford, wherein John Richard Comyns, Efq; has an handfomc 
 feaU It is a neat modern built houfe, furrounded by a good 
 park and pleafant gardens, well watered. It is called High' 
 lands ^ from the loftinefs of its fituation, which circumftance 
 renders it very delightful, from the feveral pleaiing profpedls 
 it commands. It was ere&ed by the late Sir John Comyns, 
 Chief Baron of the Exchequer. 
 
 Ingatejlone HalU the property of Lord Petre, is a venera- 
 ble ftately pile of building, having within a f'pacious court, 
 and before it is another, round which are the offices, it lies 
 very low, but on that account is well fupplicd with water, 
 and ftored with fifh ponds j and the gardens are laid out in aa 
 elegant manner. 
 
 In the parifh of Ingateftone is alfo a very good modern, 
 built houfe, called The Hide, which was built by the late 
 Timothy Brand, Efq; who was High Sheriff of the county 
 of tffex in 1721, and is now in poffeffion of Thomas Brand 
 HolliSj Efq. 
 
 In 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 In the parifli of Margaretting, which joins to Ingateftons 
 and Widford, Richard Holden, Efq; has a pleafant manfion- 
 lioufe, known by the name of Cold HalL It is an elegant 
 modern building, fituated on an eminence, with gardens well 
 laid out. 
 
 There is alfo in this parifli, on the left hand fide of the 
 road leading from Chelmsford to Ingateftone, a very good 
 houfe belonging to Humphrey Sidney, Efq, Before the houfe 
 is a pleafant avenue of ftately trees. 
 
 In the parifli of Great Wallham, which is about four miles 
 from Chelmsford, John Joiiff Tuffnel, Efq; has an hand- 
 fome feat, about a quarter of a mile from the church, known 
 by the name of Langieys* It itandson a pleafant eminence, 
 the foot and fides of which are wafhed by the river Chelmer 
 on the north, and a brook on the fouth. There is a good 
 park around it, and pleafant gardens. 
 
 At the entrance into Witham, from the Colchefter road* 
 upon the left hand, is a good houfe and gardens belonging to 
 the Earl of Abercorn. 
 
 General Douglas has alfo an handfome houfe in the fame 
 parifh. 
 
 In the parifli of Great Braxted, which is about three miles 
 from Witham, Peter Du Cane, Efq-, has an elegant feat, 
 called Braxted Lodge* It is furrounded by a park, andftands 
 upon an eminence which commands an agreeable profpecl of 
 the neighbouring country, 
 
 Charles Buxton, Efq; has alfo a good houfe in the fame 
 parift, with fpacious gardens well watered. 
 
 Kelvedon is four miles from Witham, and about a mile 
 from the former is Falix Hall, the feat of Daniel Matthews, 
 Efq. It is a handfome edifice, fituated on an eminence, and 
 around it is a fmall park. The gardens are laid out with ele- 
 gance, and have in them green-houfes and hot-houfes, and 
 every other requifite to render them ufe.'ul as well as pleafmg. 
 
 Oldjield Grange, near Ccggefliall, is a handfome feat, (with 
 a park) in which Ofgood Hanbury, Efq; refides. 
 
 In 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 In theparifh of Markfhall, which Is two miles from Cog* 
 gethall, Genera] Honeywood, who is lord of the manor, has 
 a fine feat. It is an handfome edifice, pleafaniiy fituated near 
 ' the church, on the rifing ground. The gardens, park, and 
 fiQi-ponds, contribute to make it a very pleafing retirement. 
 In the dining room is an original painting of Mrs. .Mary 
 Water?, or Honey wood, in a widow's habit. This memo-? 
 rable perfon was born at Lenharn, in Kent, and is faid to 
 have continued forty-four years a widow, and then arriving to 
 the age of ninety- three, faw three hundred and fixty-feyen 
 lawfully defcended from her, fixieen of her own body, one 
 hundred and fourteen grand-children, two hundred and twenty- 
 eight in the third generation, and nine in the fourth* 
 
 In the parifii of Grosfield, Lord Clare has a very handfome 
 feat, known by the name of Grosfield HalL It is fituated at a 
 fmall dift ance from the church, and is furrounded by an exr.cn* 
 ;five park, and has alfo elegant gardens. 
 
 Ca/ile Hedingham^ which is about forty-eight miles from 
 London, was the caftle and chief feat of the noble family of 
 De Vere, Earls of Oxford, on which account the appellation 
 of caftle is prefixed to it. The greater part of the caftle is 
 demoiifheci ; but the remaining tower is one hundred and tea 
 feet from the ground to the top of the four-fquare large tur- 
 rets at the corners. It is faid there were three other towers, 
 and in its perfect ftate this caftle appears to have been very 
 lofty and magnificent. Queen Maud, wife of King See* 
 phen, died in this caftle. it was reckoned a place of great 
 ftrength before the invention of gunpowder. It held out Tome 
 time againft King John in 12155 and againft the Dauphia 
 Lewis, who had been invited over by fome of the Barons iu 
 1217. 
 
 It was at this caftle that King Henry the Seventh, whoii 
 avaricious character is well known, made John De Vere, 
 Earl of Oxford, pay fo extravagantly for having had the 
 honour of entertaining him. The King having been feared 
 in a very fumptuous manner by the Earl, at rns going away 
 the Earl's fervants and tenants flood in their livery coats, with 
 cognizances, ranged on both fides, and made the King a lane 
 to pafs through them. Upon this Henry called the Earl to 
 him, and faid, " My Lord, I have heard much of your hof- 
 
 f* pitaiicy, 
 
256 ESSEX. 
 
 <c pitality, but I fee it is greater than the fpeech. Thefe 
 c< handfome gentlemen and yeomen, which I fee on both 
 * 6 fides of me, are fure your menial frrvants/' — The Earl 
 froiled, and fa id, c * It may pleafe your Grace, that were not 
 <c for mine eafe ; they are moft of them my retainers, who 
 C€ are come to do me fervice at fuch a time as this, and chiefly 
 c< to fee your Grace." — The King ftarted a little, and faid; 
 <c By my faith, my Lord, I thank you for my good cheer, 
 ct but I may not endure to have my laws broken in my fight. 
 €t My attorney muft fpeak with you." And accordingly the 
 King obliged him to pay a fine of fifteen thoufand marks, for 
 a breach of theftatutes againft retainers. 
 
 Hedmgham Caftle is now the property of Sir Harry Hough* 
 ton, Bart, who fome years ago difiinguifhed himfelf fo ho- 
 nourably in the Houfe of Commons in the promotion of reJj 
 ligious liberty ; and who has a handfome modern edifice here 
 in which he occafionally refides. 
 
 Peter Muilman, Efq; has a good feat in the parifh of Caf-1 
 tie Hedingham* known by the name of Kirby HalL 
 
 Tn the parifh of Bulmer, Robert Andrews, Efq; has anJ 
 handfome feat, known by the name of duberies* It is a 
 modern, regular, and uniform brick building, and isfltuated 
 upon an eminence, w 7 hich commands a delightful profpetS of , 
 the borough of Sudbury, and of fome part of Cambridgeshire. 
 It is adorned with gardens laid out in a pleating tafte^. and has 
 feveral ponds belonging to it, well flocked with fifh, 
 
 In the parifh of Great Mapleftead, which is about three . 
 miles from Haiftead, Henry Sperling, Efq; has a pleafant> 
 feat, known by the name of Dynes HalL Thehoufeisan 
 handfome edifice, a mile fouth of the church, and fituated 
 upon an eminence, commanding a beautiful profpefl. The 
 gardens belonging to it are elegant. 
 
 Richard Rigby, Efq; has an handfome feat near Manning- 
 Tree, known by the name of Miftley Hall, which is pleafantiy 
 fituated on an eminence. It is adorned with extenfive gar- 
 dens and plantations, laid out in much tafie. 
 
 In the parifh of St. Ofyth, the late Earl of Rochford had a 
 feat, confuting of a noble pile of building, which formerly 
 
 made 
 
E S S E X. 
 
 made part of a monaftery, founded by Richard de Beauveris, 
 Bifhopof London, about the year j T 18, for canons of the 
 order of Sc. Auguftine. The revenues of this monaftery 
 were very large, and there were two parks belonging to it. At 
 the diflblution of the monafteries, this place was granted to 
 the famous Thomas Cromweil, Earl of Effex, It after- 
 wards became the property of Lord Darcy, who converted 
 it into a feat for himfelf. 
 
 There are feveral handfome feats and handfome houfes, 
 belonging to perfons of diftinclion at Walthamftow; the 
 molt remarkable of which was that of Higham Hall^ plea- 
 fantly fituated upon Higham Hill, arifing ground, about half 
 a mile north from Clay-ftreet, juft above the river Lea, over- 
 looking the counties of Middlefex and Hertfordfliire, and com- 
 manding a mod delightful and extenfive profpedi. It has 
 been a magnificent and fpacious fabric j and, in ancient 
 times, when the Lords refided upon their royalties, no place 
 could be more admirably fituated than this manfion, erefted 
 at the top of the hill of Higham, and having within its view 
 the whole extent of its jurifdi&ion 3 but there are now hardly 
 any traces of its ancient grandeur remaining. 
 
 Walthamftovu is a confiderable village in this county, lituated 
 on the river Lea, about fix miles from London. I he 
 greateft part of this parifh, in Edward the Confeflor's reign, 
 belonged to Waltheof, a nobleman of great eminence, who 
 fubmitted to William the Conqueror, and was thereupon re- 
 ftored to his honours and paternal eftates. Willum alfo con- 
 ferred on him the Earldoms of Northumberland, Northamp- 
 ton, and Huntingdon, and gave him his niece Judith in mar- 
 riage: notwithftanding which, Waltheof engaging in a con- 
 fpiracv to depofe William, was beheaded at Winchefter, about 
 the year 1075. 
 
 The river here divides Eflex from Middlefex as far as Lea- 
 bridge. 
 
 Walthamftow church, which is dedicated to the BlefTed 
 Virgin, is a large edifice, fituated upon a hill, and confilts of 
 three ifles ; that on the north fide, built by Sir George Mo- 
 nox, Knight, Alderman and Lord Mayor of London in the 
 reign of Henry the Eighth, is called Monoxs IJle ; and that 
 on the fouth fide bears the name of Thome's Ijle i from a citizen 
 
 Vol. I. 2 K and 
 
258 ESSEX. 
 
 and merchant taylor of that name, who was probably at the 
 expence of building it. In this church are a great number of 
 monuments. 
 
 Sir George Moncx alfo built alms-houfes on the north fide 
 of the church-yard for thirteen poor people, eight men and 
 five women ; with an apartment for a free-fchool ; and for 
 their maintenance fettled on truftees an eftate in Mark-Lane, 
 London — Mr, Henry Maynard, a merchant of London, was 
 alfo a great benefactor to this parifh. 
 
 Walthamftow contains feveral ftreets or hamlets, but which 
 are not clofelv joined or connected together, but are fituated 
 as follows: Shanhall-ftreet, an hundred \ards weft from the 
 church ; Hare-ftreet, a quarter of a mile fouth-eaft ; Wood- 
 ford-ftreet, half a mile eaft 5 and March-ftreet, three quarters 
 of a mile weft of the church. 
 
 Wanfted is a very pleafant village, at the diftance of fix 
 miles from London. The parifh of Wanfted joins to that of 
 Walthamftow. Wanfted is in a delightful fituation, the 
 greattft part of it ftanding on a hill, from which is com- 
 manded a beautiful profp? cl of the city of London and its en- 
 virons, the fine hills of Kent, the river Thames, and rich 
 views of the neighbouring parifhes. 
 
 It is fuppofed that there was here a Roman villa, or fome 
 little ftation ; for in the year 1715, as bir Richard Child's 
 gardeners were digging holes for planting an avenue of trees 
 in 'the park, on the fouth fide of the lower part of the gardens, 
 they difcovered a tefielated Roman pavement. The owner 
 would not permit it to be laid quite open ; but by the frag- 
 ments thrown up, they obferved, chat it confifted of fmall 
 fquare tellers of brick of divers colours, from one inch to a 
 quarter of an inch fquare. Round it there was a border of 
 about a foot broad, com pofed of red dies about three quarters 
 of an inch fquare $ within which were feveral ornaments wove 
 In wreaths, and in the middle the figure of a man riding, 
 holding fonnething in his right hand. The pavement was 
 fituated on a gende gravelly afcent, towards the north ; and, 
 at a fmall diftance from the loath end of it, was a ipring, or 
 well, of fine water, now abforbed into a gre^t pond. From 
 this Weil the ground rofe gently towards the fouth, till it came 
 to an exadi level, which reaches agreat way. On the very 
 brink of tins level, and about three hundred yaids directly 
 
 fouth 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 fouth froti the before faid well and pavement, were the ruins 
 of fome brick foundations. — Some years afterwards, upon 
 making further improvements, the workmen found feveral 
 fherds of broken pots, or fragments of urns, of different 
 kinds of earth, fome brown, fome white, &c» but all of a 
 coarfe clay ; many pieces of bricks, which proved that there 
 had been a building there: and many calcined human bones, 
 teeth, &c A filver medal, a copper one of the Emperor 
 Valens, and another of copper, generally efteemed to be of 
 the Conftantine age, were like wife found here. — Smart Le- 
 thieullier, Efq; was of opinion, that this was the maufoleum 
 of fome private family, whofe villa perhaps flood on the more 
 elevated ground where Wanfted now Hands. 
 
 The church here, which is dedicated to St. Mary, flands 
 near Wanfted Houfe, and was new buiic, chiefly ai the expence 
 of the late Richard Earl Tylney. Among other monuments 
 in this church, there is a very fumptuous one eredted to the 
 memory of Sir Jofias Child, a very eminent merchant, and 
 well known for his excellent Treatife on Trade. This gentle- 
 man purchafed the manor of Wanited, from whom it came to 
 his descendant, the prefent poffdlbr, John Vifcount CafUe- 
 main, and Earl of Tylney. 
 
 The manor of Cannons Hall or Cann Ha//, lies about a mile 
 fouth-weft of Wanfted church. It anciently belonged to the 
 prior and canons of the Holy Trinity, in London. It is now 
 the property of William Colgrove, Efq. 
 
 Woodford is eight miles from London, and derives its name 
 from the ford in the wood, or forett, where now is Woodford 
 Bridge. This was one of the feventeen lordfhips with which 
 Earl Harold endowed his abbey of Wakham Holy Crofs, and 
 was confirmed to that monaftery, with all its lands and ap- 
 purtenances and liberties, by King Edward the ConfeiTor, in 
 his charter, in 1062. I he cuttom of the manor of Wood- 
 ford is Borough Eng/i/h, by which the youngeit ion innerics. 
 Tne origin of this cuifcom has been a fubject 01 much dilpute; 
 but it appears to have prevailed greatly in the kingdom of the 
 Eaft Saxons. Dr. Piot has conjeclured, that it was intro- 
 duced by the lord of the manor's claiming the right of en- 
 joying the bride, daughter of his tenant, on the wedding- 
 flight $ therefore the villain, or flave, doubting whether tne 
 
 2 K 2 eldeffc 
 
sfio ESSEX. 
 
 eldeft fon was his own, made the youngeft his heir. But 
 
 at there feems not to be fufficient evidence that this ever was 
 an eftablifhed practice, the Doctor's conjecture has been fup- 
 pofed not to be well founded. 
 
 Woodford wells were formerly in repute, as purgative, and 
 good for many diforders, but are now entirely negle£ted. 
 
 About a mile from Woodford is the pariflu of Chlngford^ 
 in which there is an eftate of twenty-four pounds per annum 
 holden of the redlor. Upon every alienation, the owner of 
 the eftate, with his wife, man-fervant, and maid-fervanr, each 
 fingle on a horfe, come to the parfonage ; where the owner 
 does his homage, and pays his relief in the following manner : 
 He blows three blafts with his horn, and carries a hawk on his 
 fift, and his fervant has a greyhound in a flip, both for the ufe 
 of the redor for that day. He receives a chicken for his 
 hawk, a peck of oats for his horfe, and a loaf of bread for his 
 greyhound. They all dine, after which the matter blows 
 three bJafts with his horn, and they all depart. 
 
 Chigwell \% a pleafant village, about ten miles from London. 
 This parifh, as well as the neighbouring ones, is moft de- 
 lightfully fituated ; on which account, and from its conve* 
 nient diftance, it is much frequented by perfons from the me- 
 tropolis, it being one of the moft pleafing rides within the like 
 diftance. The village is neat and agreeable, and has good 
 accommodations for travellers ; but carries on no manufac- 
 ture, it being rather a place for receiving thofe who are fond 
 of lhort excurfions into the country, than a place of much 
 commerce,— From Chigwell Row is a fine view extending 
 upwards of thirty miles, and comprehending a great part of 
 the river Thames, bounded by the pleafant hills of Kent, by 
 Danbury fpire in EfTcx, hy the foreft of Hen haul t, and an ex- 
 ceeding rich country around. 
 
 In Chigwell church there is a fine large plate of brafs, with 
 the whole length portraiture of Samuel Harfnett, Archbifhop 
 of York, engraved thereon in a very curious manner. This 
 prelate, who had been vicar of this parifh, founded here two 
 free-fchools, one called the Grammar and the other the Englifl* 
 fchool — At the weit end of the church is a wooden belfry, 
 built of chefnut, containing five bells; and over the belfry 
 is a handfome fpire, ftiingled. 
 
 The 
 
ESSEX. 261 
 
 The Forefi of Henhault, in this neighbourhood, is fuppofed 
 to have been fo named from, its having been well flocked with 
 deersfrom Henhauk, in Germany. Within this foreft (lands 
 the remarkable large cak called Fair-lop, meafuring upwards 
 of fifteen yards in bulk. It is not an over-tall tree, but is 
 Angularly beautiful and curious, on account of the boughs 
 fpreading from top to bottom in a regular circle, and bting 
 level underneath, about ten feet from the ground, fo as to re- 
 prefent an umbrella. A cuftom prevailed among many of 
 the Londoners, to come yearly to eat beans and bacon, d.elTed 
 under the boughs of this tree, which are fuppofed to extend 
 eighty feet from the body, all around. It at Jaft became fo 
 remarkable, that a fair was held under it, called Fair-lop Fair ; 
 which fair fome years ago was ordered to be difcontinued, by 
 Lord Tylney and the verdurer, on account of its being a nui- 
 fance ; for befides the riots which frequently happened there a 
 the deer fuffered much, 
 
 Lamlorn is 3 pleafant parifh adjoining to Chigwell. The 
 houfes herein arc fcattered at a diftance from each other, fome 
 of which are neat, and the refidence of gentlemen of fortune* 
 
 The parifh of Kelvedon Hatch adjoining to Naveftock is but 
 a fmall one. On a tomh-ftone in the church here is a 
 plate with the following infeription : 
 
 cc Fr aires in unum. 
 <c Here lies Richard and Anthony Luther, Efqrs. fo truly 
 * c loving brothers, that they lived near forty years joint houfe- 
 u keepers together at Miles's, without any accompt between 
 « them." 
 
 The church at Theydon Mount, which is dedicated to Sf 
 Michael, is pleafantly fituated. It was burnt by lightning, 
 and was rebuilt by Sir William Smith, of brick, and tiled. 
 In the chancel of this church are feveral coftly monuments, 
 the moft ancient of which is that erected to the memory of 
 Sir Thomas Smith, who was not only an able ftatefman, but 
 one of the moft learned men of the age in which he lived, and 
 a great promoter of the ftudy of the Greek language. 
 
 Theydon Gernon is a very pleafant parifh, which lies upon 
 the weft fide of Theydon Mount, It is frequently called 
 Coyer/ale, from a capital feat about two miles north of the 
 
 church. 
 
262 
 
 ESSEX* 
 
 church. The village is but fmall, and confifts chiefly of a 
 few (hops, and houfes of artificers. But this, with fome of 
 the neighbouring; parifhes, may with propriety be called 
 The Garden of EJex, from the pleafing variety of hills and 
 vales, the fertility of the foil, the goodnefsof the roads, the 
 neatnefsof the buildings, and the many additional ornaments 
 they receive from the number of noblemens and gentlemens 
 feats with which they abound ; infomuch that a traveller can- 
 not pafs through this part of the country without being Itruclc 
 with its beauty, and the variety of noble and pleafing profpe&s 
 "Which in different places prefent themfelves to his view. 
 
 At a fmall diftance from hence is the parifh of Loughton^ 
 which is about thirteen miles from London, and in a very 
 healthy fituation. The village is fmall and neat, but carries 
 on little or no traffic, 
 
 The parifh of Loughton was one of the feventeen lord/hips 
 wherewith Earl Harold endowed his monaftery of Waltham; 
 and in thatmonaftery it continued till the fuppreffion, when it 
 came to the crown. It is faid that in 1&88, the Princefs of 
 Denmark, afterwards Queen Anne, retired to Loughton Hall, 
 when (he faw how things were going on with her imprudenl 
 father. Loughton church is very agreeably fituated, having 
 a fine profpedi all around it. 
 
 Weji Waltham or Waltham Crofs, ftands on the weft fide of 
 the river Lea, in Middlefex and Her:fordfhire. It is a great 
 thoroughfare in the Ware road, and is about twelve miles from 
 London. It has its name of Crofs, from that erected here by 
 order of King Edward the Firft, in memory of its being one of 
 the refting places for the corpfe of his Queen, when fhe was 
 brought from the north to be interred at Weftminfier. That 
 Princefs's effigies are placed round the pillar with the arms of 
 her confort, and thofe of her own, viz. England, Caftile* 
 Leon, and Poi&ou, which are ftill in part remaining, though 
 greatly defaced, 
 
 Epping-Forejl, which is a royal chace, and which reaches 
 many miles from the town of Epping towards London, was 
 anciently called The Foreji of Efex, and then of Waltham^ 
 and was granted by Edward the Confefibr to his favourite 
 Randolph Pepper-king, afterwards called Peverell ; whp 
 
 having 
 
E S S E X. 263 
 
 having a beautiful lady to his wife, William the Conqueror 
 fell in love with her, and had a fon by her, called William 
 Peverell. 
 
 The parifh of South Weald contains many handfome houfes. 
 The church ftandson an hill, f-om whence is a fine profpeci. 
 It is an handfome building, confining of two paces, fupported 
 in the middle by five pilla w s of the Tufcan order. At the 
 weft end there is a ftrong tower of confiderable height, em- 
 battled, in which are five bells. This tower was builc in the 
 beginning of King H< nry the Seventh's reign. 
 
 The Saxon word Weald fignifies Wood, and this place is 
 fuppofed to have be^n one of th<: firft inhabited parts of ElTexv 
 — By the fouth fide of Weald-hall Park there is a camp, 
 inclofing about feventeen acres; it is circular, fingle 
 ditched, and thought to have been a Roman fummer camp, 
 or Cajlra JExploratorum. — There are horfe races every 
 year on Warley-common, which is at a little diftance from 
 Brentwood* 
 
 Havering-at Bower is about three miles from Romford, and 
 is faid to have derived its name from the following marvellous 
 ftory, which may amufe our readers, though we prefume but 
 few of them will give credit to it. We are told, that as the 
 church of Clavering, in this county, was confecrating, and 
 was to be dedicated to Chrift and St. John the Evangelift, 
 King Edward the Confeflbr riding that way, alighted, out of 
 devotion, to be prefentat the confecration. During the pro* 
 cefiion, a fair old man carre to the King, and begged alms of 
 him in the name of God and St. John the £vangelift. The 
 King having nothing elfe to give, as his almoner was not at 
 hand, took the ring from his finger, and gave it the poor man* 
 Some years after, two Unglifh pilgrims having loft their way 
 as they were travellmg to the Holy Land, they faw a compa- 
 ny clothed in whire, with two lights carried before them - y and 
 behind them came a fair ancient man* The pilgrims joining 
 them, the old man enquired who they were, and whence they 
 came. After hearing their ftory, he brought them into a tine 
 city, where was a room furniliied with ail manner of dainties. 
 When they had well refreihed themfelves, and reftcd there all 
 flight, the old man fet them again in trie right way; and at 
 parting, he told them he was John the kvangehft \ adding, as 
 
 the 
 
264 E S S E X. 
 
 the legend goes on, <c Say ye unto Edward your King, that I 
 c< greet him well by the token that he gave to me this ring 
 <c with his own hands at the hallowing of my church, which 
 <c ring ye /hall deliver him again. And fay ye unto him, 
 * c that he difpnfe his goods, for within fix months he fhall be in 
 44 the joy of Heaven with me, where he {hall have his reward 
 " for his chaftity and for his good living/* At their return 
 home the two pilgrims waited upon the King, who was then at 
 this bower, and delivered to him the meffage and the ring, j 
 from which circumftance this village is faid to have received 
 the name of Have-ring. 
 
 This relation, however ridiculous, gained fo great credit in 
 that age, as to occafion the whole ftory to be wrought in baffo 
 relievo in the chapel at Weftminfter, where Edward the Con- 
 felTor lies buried, on the back of the fcreen that divides ft from 
 the altar. The ftatues of the King and the pilgrims arealfo 
 over the courts of King Bench and Common Pleas, in Weft- 
 minder Hall, and over the gate going into Dean's Yard. His 
 picture was alfo on the glafs of the eaft window of the fouth 
 ifle of Romford chapel, with two pilgrims, and under it, 
 Johannes per peregrino mi/it Regi Edwardo* A good pidiure 
 of him is now on the glafs of the chapcel window of that 
 chapel, renewed in the year 1707. The ring pretended to 
 have been given by him, as above, to St, John, was depoiited 
 among other reliques in his abbey at Weftminfter. 
 
 This was anciently a retiring place for fevera) of our Saxon 
 Kings, particularly of Edward the ConfelTor, who took great 
 delight in it, on account of its gloomy and folitary afpecl, ic 
 being at that time woody, and therefore it fuited we!! his pri- 
 vate devotions. This place has been very prod udtive of ex- 
 traordinary ftories ; and accordingly the legend fays,it abounded 
 fo with warbling nightingales, that they difturbed King 
 Edward the ConfelTor in his devotions, infomuch that he ear- 
 neftly prayed for their removal ; fince which time, according 
 to many of the fage people of this neighbourhood, no night- 
 ingales have ever been heard to fing in the park, as in other 
 places ; but that many were heard without the pales. 
 
 Near the remains of the royal houfe ftands Havering Chapel % 
 dedicated to St. John the Evangelift. It is a finall building, 
 of one pace with the chancel, the whole tiled. 
 
 Befides the place of Havering Bower, here was another at 
 Pirgo % which belonged 10 the Queens of England, where they 
 
 ' refided 
 
ESSEX. 265 
 
 efided at their own conveniency, for perhaps during their wi- 
 dowhood, Havering being ufually part of the Queen's join- 
 ture* 
 
 About four miles from Romford is the parifh of Cranham* 
 which is fuppoied to have derived its name of Cranham from a 
 refoat cf cranes here, the hawking of which was an ancient 
 fporf. And if we were to judge from the bills of fare into 
 which cranes came, and the price of provifions, remarked by 
 our hiftorians, in the time of King hdward the Firft, we 
 muft imagine the ftomachs of the people of that fighting age 
 to be of a ftrange tone; for when a goofe fold for four- pence, 
 a crane fold for twelve-pence; and King William Rufiis is 
 faid to have turned off his major-domo, for fetting before him 
 a crane half roafted. 
 
 Dagenham Breach was made upwards of fifty years ago, by 
 the Thames, which overflowed one thoufand acres of rich 
 land 5 but after near ten years inundation, during which the 
 works were feveral times blown up, it was at laft flopped by 
 Captain Perry, who had been employed feveral years in the 
 Czar of Mufcovy's works at Veronitza ; but the expence at* 
 tending this amounted to more than forty thoufand pounds. 
 
 The village of Little Ilford is three miles from Berking; 
 It is but fmali, confiding only of one ftreet, which on Sun- 
 days many citizens of London and others refort to for an air- 
 ing; and the little traffic occafioned thereby is the chief fup- 
 port of its, inhabitants. 
 
 Little Ilford church is fmali, but neat \ and at the north- 
 weft corner of it the^ethieuiler family have ere&ed a very neat 
 room, about fifteen feet fquare, feparated from the church by 
 an iron gate. It has a fire place, and every convenience to ac- 
 commodate the family when they attend divine fervice. The 
 pavement is of free-itone, and beneath it is the family vaults 
 Along the north fide of this room is a capital, Supported by 
 columns of the Doric order \ it is afcend^d by two itcps, and 
 between the columns is a very neat aicar-tomb oi black and 
 white marble, fuppoiting a beautiful marble urn of various 
 colours. This monument is m memory of John Lethiejiler, 
 Efq. There are feveral other monuments Here 10 pedons of 
 
 Voju I t 2 L the 
 
a66 ESSEX. 
 
 the fame family, but the only one that we (hall particularly 
 mention, is that erected to the memory of Smart Lethieuller, 
 Efq; a gentleman much diftinguifhed for his (kill in antiqui- 
 ties ; and we {hall infert the infcription on his tomb, becaufe 
 it is remarkable for propriety and elegance. It is as follows l 
 
 In Memory of 
 Smart Lethieuller, Efq; 
 A Gentleman of polite Literature and elegant Tafte; 
 An Encourager of Arts and ingenious Artifts ; 
 
 A ftudious Promoter of literary Enquiries ; 
 A Companion and a Friend of learned Men ; 
 Judicioufly verfed in Science of Antiquity ; 
 And richly pofTefTed of the curious Productions of Nature* 
 
 But 
 
 Who modeftly delired no other Infcription on his 
 Tomb, than what he had made the Rule of his Life ; 
 To dojuflly, 
 To love Mercy, 
 And to walk humbly with God, 
 He was born Nov. 3, 1701. 
 And deceafed without IiTue Aug, 27, 1760. 
 
 The moft elegant fimplicity runs through every part of this 
 church, which is fo well calculated to infpire ferious con- 
 templation, that few edifices of the kind are equal to it. 
 
 Leyton is a ftraggling village by the river Lea, about fix 
 niiies from London. There are feveral handfome houfes in 
 this parifh, belonging to wealthy citizens and other gentle- 
 men. 
 
 One part of this parifh is called Leyton Stone> which is in 
 a pleafant and healthy fstuation ; and the number of inhabi- 
 tants here being greatly increafed, a chapel of eafe has been 
 built for their convenience. 
 
 It is fomewhat Angular that the parifh of Walthamftow 
 fhould have a piece of ground about fifty yards wide, which 
 runs directly in a ttrait line through this parifh, 
 
 Here feerns to have been a Roman villa, or feme fummer 
 camp or ftation $ for between the manor-houfe and the canal, 
 where the garden now is, in digging were found old founda- 
 tions, with a great many Roman bricks, intermixed with 
 . ethers, and feveral medals ; ^d in enlarging the horfe-pond 
 
 huge 
 
ESSEX. 267 
 
 huge foundations were discovered fix feet under ground ; and 
 a large arched gate with mouldings, nine or ten feet high, and 
 five or fix broad, the top of which was alfo fix feet under 
 ground* The walls were four feet thick or more. A very 
 large urn, with afhes and bones, were taken up in the church- 
 yard, in digging a deep grave Several urns, with sfhes in 
 them, have alfo been found on the fouth fide of Blind-lane, 
 near Rockholts, in digging for gravel. 
 
 ^ There are feveral very handfome monuments in Leyton 
 church and church-yard. — That indefatigable antiquarian 
 Mr. John Strype, was vicar of this parifh. — The famous 
 Sir Thomas Roe, AmbafTador to the Great Mogul, the 
 Grand Signior, and feveral European Princes, in the reign 
 of King James the Firft, was born in this parifh. In this 
 great man the accomplifhments of the fchoiar, the gentleman, 
 and the ftatefman, were eminently united. During his refi- 
 dence in the Mogul's court, he zealoufiy promoted the trading 
 interefl of this kingdom, for which theEaft India Company 
 is indebted to him to this day. In his emhafly to the Grand 
 Signior, he collected many valuable Greek and oriental manu- 
 fcripts, which he prefented to the Bodleian library, to w hich 
 he left his valuable collection of coins. The fine Alexan- 
 drian manufcript of the Greek Bible was procured by his 
 -means. 
 
 Weft Ham* which joins to Ley ton, is four miles diftant 
 from London. It includes Stratford* anciently furnamed 
 Langthorne* and is parted from Middlefex on the fcuth, and 
 from St. Mary Stratford-le-Bow, by the river L?a, over which 
 there are five bridges in this parifh. Bow-bridge, which is 
 one of them, received the name of Bow* or Arched* bridge, 
 becaufe it was the firft arched ftone bridge in the councy. 
 The occafion of its being built is thus related : The ancient 
 road from this county to London was by Old Ford; that is, 
 through the ford there without a bridge. But that paflage being 
 difficult and dangerous, and many perfons lofing their lives, or 
 being thoroughly wetted, which happened to be the cafe with 
 Maud, Queen to King Henry the Firfi, fhe turned the road 
 from Old Ford to the place where it is now, and made the 
 caufeways, and built the bridges at her own charge ; and for 
 v keeping them in repair, fhe gave to theabbefsof Berking cer- 
 tain manors, and a mil] called Wiggan MilU 
 
 2 L 2 The 
 
£68 
 
 E S S E X. 
 
 The parifh of Weft Ham is divided into four wards, namely* 
 
 Church Ward, Stratford Langthorne^ Plaiftow Ward^ and that 
 of Upton* Its fituation is not high, nor yet very low, but in 
 general healthy ; and the lower part of Plaiftow affords a 
 beautiful view of the river Thames, and the county of Kent, 
 for many miles. 
 
 This parifli is divided from the county of Kent by the river 
 Thames. From its vicinity to the metropolis, and from the 
 convcniency whrch it has of water-carriage, a number of 
 wealthy merchants, traders, and induftrious artifts have cho- 
 fen it for their refidence ; by which means, of late years the 
 buildings have been much increafed, particularly by the addi* 
 tion of two fmall new-built hamlets, if they may be thus 
 called, on the Foreft fide. Thefe are Maryland Point and 
 The Gravel Pits i one facing the road to Epping, and that 
 to ht Irnsiord* Alary land Point is aclufterof houfes near 
 Srratford j the firft of them were ere&ed by a merchant, who 
 had got a fortune in that colony, from whence they took their 
 name. 
 
 Stratford^ (that is, the ftreet at the ford) is a very large and 
 confiderable hamlet in this panfli 5 and diftinguifhed from the 
 other adjoining, Stratford at Bow, lying on the weft fide of 
 Bow-hridge, in the county of Middlefex, by the appellation 
 of Langton, or Langthorne, 
 
 Plaiftow Hamlet lies fouth of the church, and Upton north 
 of the fame. 
 
 About half a mile fouth-fouth-weft from the church, are 
 the remains ot Stratford dbbey,oncea confiderable monaftery 
 here, and part of the old gate 01 which is ftill ftanding. This 
 monaftery was founded about the year 1 134., by William 
 Montfichet, for the monks of the Ciftertian order, and dedi- 
 cated to the Virgin Mary, and All Saints. Its dernefnes in 
 this parifli comprehend onethoufand five hundred acres. 
 
 Weft Ham church, which is dedicated to all All Saints, is 
 larger both church and chancel having north and fouth 
 ifles. There are feveral monuments in it, two of which are 
 ancient. 
 
 Eajl Ham is fituated rather low, and its foil is gravelly, 
 except in the marihes. Several wealthy citizens and other 
 
 gentlemen 
 
E S S E X. 269 
 
 gentlemen refide in it, on which account it has feveral good 
 houfes in it. 
 
 One of the moft remarkable particulars here is, the fpring 
 called Miller s WelU the water of which is efteemed to be ex- 
 tremely good, and has not ever been known to be frozen, or 
 to have varied in its height, either in Cummer or in winter. 
 
 A part of Kent, in the parifh of Woolwich, lies on this 
 fide the river, and divides this parifh from the Thames. 
 
 Tilbury Fort) which is in this county, oppofite to Graved 
 end, is a regular fortification, planned by Sir Martin Beck- 
 man, chief engineer to Charles the Second, with baftions the 
 largeft of any in England* Ii has a double moat, the inner- 
 moft of which is one hundred and eighty feet broad, with a 
 good counterfcarp, a covered wsy, ravelins and tcnailles, and 
 a platform, on which one hundred and fix cannon are placed, 
 from twenty-four to forty-fix pounder^ each, befides fmaller 
 ones planted between them, and the baftions and curtains* 
 alfo planted with guns $ and here is a high tower, called 
 The Block Houfe* which is faid to have been built in the reign 
 of Que n Elizabeth. On the land fide are alfo two redoubts 
 of bnck; and there it is able to lay the whole level under 
 water. The four proconfular ways made in Britain by the 
 Rom ns croffed each other here. Great part of the land in 
 ihs level, which is Corn ed of thofe unhealthy marfiies, called 
 The 'three Hundreds* is held by the farmers, cowkeepers, and 
 grazing butchers of London, who generally flock them with 
 Lincolnftiire 2nd Leicefterfhire weathers, which they buy in 
 Smithfield, in September ana O&ober, and feed them here till 
 Chriftmas or Candlemas $ and this is what the butchers call 
 right marfh mutton. 
 
 Near Chelmsford, and facing Moulftiam Hall are fix alms- 
 houfes, which were founded by Sir Thomas Mildmay, Bart, 
 and Anne his wife, for fix poor people. And at a little dif- 
 tance from hence there was formerly an houfeof Dominican 
 friars. The building was very ftrong, being a compofition 
 of brick, flint, and tree-ftone. The kitchen remained till 
 within thefe few years, and was efteemed a great curiofityj 
 the room being fupported and decorated in the manner of the 
 Theatre at Oxford. Thefite of it is now called The Friars. 
 
 In 
 
ESSEX. 
 
 In a field called Long-JIumps, between Moi^lfham Hal! and 
 Gallywood Common, formerly flood a chapel, which belong- 
 ed to the abbey of St. Ofyth. 
 
 Boreham Church is an ancient edifice ; and there are here 
 the remains of a fine monument in the Suflex chapel, which 
 was ere&ed to perpetuate the memory of the noble family of 
 that name. There are three alabafter figures of Robert Rad- 
 cliff, Henry Radcliff, and Thomas Radcliff, Earls of Suflex $ 
 and in the vault, which is very neat, are twelve coffins, con- 
 taining the remains of thefe noblemen, and others of the fame 
 family. Some of them have inferiptions on one fide, and a 
 flar and garter on the other. Others are caft in a human 
 fhape, with eyes, nofe, mouth, &c. This ancient chapel and 
 monument were for many years in a ruinous ftate, it being a 
 fubjeft of difpute to whom it belonged to preferve and repair 
 them. But Richard Hoare, Efq; having obtained a fa- 
 culty to convert the chapel into a place of interment for 
 his family, has repaired it for that purpofe at a confiderablc 
 expence. 
 
 In the church-yard is erefled amaufoleum for theWaltharn 
 family, in imitation of the Temple of the Winds at Athens: 
 It is built with white brick and ftone. The remains of the 
 late Lord Wahham are here depofited. 
 
 Ingatejione Church is a good brick edifice, and contains 
 fome handfome monuments in memory of the Petre family. 
 
 There is a manor in the parifh of Margaretting named 
 Shenfield, which is faid to have been one of the houfes of 
 pleafure where King Henry the Eighth ufed to refort to his 
 miftreflts. The houfe lay in a bottom, had many large 
 buildings about it, and was furrounded by a moat. It had a 
 draw-bridge, at the extremity of which were two ftrong 
 watch-towers, of brick ; and there was a chapel adjoining to 
 the houfe. But in oft of the original buildings, if not all, are 
 now pulled down, and it is become the habitation of a private 
 gentleman. 
 
 Tradition fays, that there was more than one place in the 
 county of EfTex to which King Henry the Eighth ufed occa- 
 fionally to retire with his miflrefles. At fome diftance from 
 hence is the parifh of Biackmore, which he is reported to 
 
 have 
 
ESSEX* 
 
 271 
 
 have made ufe of for his amorous retreats. The manor-houfe 
 of Blackmore is alfo called Jericho ; and we are told, that 
 when Harry chofe to retreat from public bufinefs, and indulge 
 himfelf in the embraces of his courtezans, the cant phrafe 
 among the courtiers was, " He was gone to Jericho." 
 He is alfo faid to have made ufe of Newland-Hall, in this 
 county, for the fame purpofe. But, in truth, much more 
 is faid of Henry's miftrefles by the traditionary reports 
 of the people of Effex, than is to be met with in all our 
 hiftorians. 
 
 In the parifh of Black Notley, which is at a little diftance 
 from Braintree, there is a handfoms monument in the church-* 
 yard in memory of that celebrated naturalift, Mr. John 
 Ray, which was ere&ed at the expence of Henry Compton, 
 Bifhop of London. Mr. Ray was born at Black Notley, 
 being the fon of a blackfmith there, and was alfo interred 
 there in 1706. 
 
 Bocking is one of the moft confiderable villages in the county 
 of jkflex : It confifts chiefly of one ftreet, in which the baize- 
 trade is carried on to a very great amount. The church is a 
 fpacious building, fituated upon an eminence. Here is alfo 
 a large meeting-houfe 5 and another belonging to the Quakers* 
 —-An urn of old coins, moftly Vefpaiian's, was fome time 
 fince found in the grounds belonging to High Garret, in this 
 parifh. 
 
 In the parifh of Little Dunmow, which is two miles from 
 the to a n of Dtinmow, there was formerly a priory. It flood 
 in a delightful fnuation, but is now entirely decayedt In this 
 priory were maintained a prior, and ten or eleven canons re- 
 gular, of the order of St. Auguftine, 
 
 Amongft the jocular tenures of England, none have been 
 more talked of than the Bacon at Dunmow. It does not ap- 
 pear who inlhtuted this cuftom, but it is generally fuppofed 
 to be one of the family of Fuzwalter. The prior and canons 
 were obliged to deliver the bacon to the perfon who took the 
 following oath : 
 
 M You ihall fwear, by cuftom of confelTion, 
 '* That you ne'er made nuptial tranfgreifion ; 
 
 « Nor 
 
2jz ESSEX* 
 
 " Nor fince you were married man and wife, 
 
 €e By houfhold brawls or contentious ftrife, 
 
 *' Or otherwife, in bed or at board, 
 
 * c Offended each other in deed or in word ; 
 
 € * Or fince the parilh clerk laid Amen, 
 
 c< Wifhed yourfelves unmarried agen $ 
 
 *• Or in a twelvemonth and a day 
 
 *' Repented not in thought any way, 
 
 c< But continued true in thought and defire, 
 
 (< As when you joined hands in holy quire ; 
 
 <c If to thele conditions without all fear 
 
 €C Of your own accord you will freely fwear, 
 
 " A whole gammon of bacon you fhall receive 
 
 " And bear it hence with love and good leave. 
 
 " For this is our cuftom atDunmovv well known, 
 
 " Though the pleafure be ours, the bacon's your own." 
 
 After this oath was taken, the claimant of the bacon was 
 taken in a chair provided for the purpofe, and ftiil kept in the 
 church, and carried firft about the priory church-yard, and 
 afterwards through the town, with all the priory brethren, his 
 bacon being borne before him, and the town's people attending 
 with (houts and acclamations $ and in this manner he was 
 conveyed home. 
 
 In the chartulary, or regifter-book of this priory, now pre- 
 served in the Britifh Mufeum, there are entries and memoran- 
 dums of perfons who have at feveral times received the bacon, 
 namely, Richard Wright, of Badeburgh, near Norwich, yeo- 
 man, in 1445. Samuel Fuller, of Little Eafton, hufband- 
 man, in 1467. 1 hornas Fuller, of Coggeftiall, in 15 10. 
 
 Since the fuppreflion of the priory this cuftom is liili kept 
 up, and the ceremony is performed at a court baron for this 
 manor by the fteward, of which the following are inftances : 
 " At a court-baron of Sir Thomas May, Knight, held, 
 44 7 June, 1 701, before Thomas Wheeler, Gent, iteward, the 
 44 homage btmg five fair ladies % fpinliers, namely, Elizabeth. 
 44 Beaumont, Henrietta Beaumont, Annabella Beaumont, 
 44 Jane Beaumont, and Mary Wheeler ; they found, thaC 
 44 John Reynolds, of Hatfield Broad Oak, Gent, and Anne 
 44 his wife, and William tfarfley, ot Great tatton, butcher, 
 44 and his wife Jane, by means of their quiet and peaceable^ 
 44 tender and ^/^cohabitation for the ipace of three years 
 44 iaii paft and upwards, were fit and quaufied perfons to be 
 44 admitted by the court to receive theancantand accultomed 
 
 44 oath, 
 
ESSEX. 273 
 
 « oath, whereby to entitle themfelves to have the bacon of 
 « Dunmow delivered to them according to the cuftom of the 
 « manor. Accordingly, having taken the oath, kneeling ori 
 « the two great (tones near the church door, the bacon was 
 
 i* delivered to each couple." 
 
 The laft who received it were John Shakefhanks* wool- 
 comber, and Anne his wife, of WethersfieM* on the 20th ot 
 June, 1751. 
 
 At AJhdon, about three miles north. weft of Saffron-Walden, 
 there are four barrows, or pyramidical hills, which were 
 erefled by Canute the Dane, over the bodies of thole who 
 were killed in a battle which was fought here, and in which 
 Canute totally defeated the army of Edmund Ironfide, and 
 took moft of the nobility who attended him prifoners. One 
 of thefe hills beiotr dug into or opened, there were found, 
 in a ftone coffin, two bodies, one of which lay with his head 
 towards the others feet ; alfo two other ftone coffins were found 
 with pieces of bones in them, and many chains of iron, about 
 the fize of thofe belonging to horfes bits. 
 
 At Cheflerford, a village four miles north of Saffron- Wal* 
 den, fome years ago the ruins of a Roman city Were difcover* 
 ed ; the foundations of the walls take in a compafs of aboat 
 fifty acres ; and the foundations of a Roman temple were not 
 long lincc very vifible. 
 
 In the parifli of Had/lock, which joins to that of Afhdon, is 
 a very ancient church, th north door o r which is much 
 adorned with thick bars of ironwork, of an irregular form, 
 underneath which is a fort of a fkm, faid to be that of a Da- 
 nifh king : it is nailed on with large nails. 
 
 There is a tradition about the church door of Copford pa- 
 rifh, whu h is a.out five mile§ from Colchefter* of which :Ar. 
 Mewcourt give us the following account. He lays, it was 
 " token notice of in the year 1690, when an old man at Col- 
 M cheiter nearing Copford mentioned, faid, that in his young 
 <6 time, he neard his maiter fay, that he had read in an old 
 " h:ltory, that the church of Copford was robbed by the 
 f« Danes, and their (kins nailed to the doors; upm which a 
 *< iome gentlemen being curious, went thither, and found a 
 
 Vol. 1. 2 M fori 
 
274 E s s E X?. 
 
 cc fort of tanned (kin, thicker than parchment, which is (up* 
 " pofed to be human (kin, nailed to the door of the faid 
 €C church, underneath the faid iron-work, fome of which 
 " (kin is ftill to be feen." 
 
 The village of Cajlle Hedlngham is a neat and healthy 
 place, and there are three fairs held here, one on the 3d of 
 May, another on the 23d of July, and the third on the 6th 
 of December, Sir Harry Houghton has erected a ftrong 
 bridge of brick here, confiding of three arches, at his owa 
 cxpence. 
 
 A religious houfe was founded in this parifli, for black- 
 veiled nuns, of the Benedi&ine order, by Alberic de Vere, the 
 firft: Earl of Oxford, The nunnery-houfe is ftill in being, 
 but converted into a farm houfe, and mofl of the church or 
 chapel belonging to it is ftill (landing. 
 
 In the middle of the chancel of Caftle Hedimjham church 
 is an handfomeand curious marble tomb, containing the re- 
 mains of John de Vere, the fifth Earl of Oxford of that 
 name. There are alfo fome other handfome monuments in 
 the church. 
 
 The parifh of Hedlngham Sible joins to this, and in the wall 
 of the fouth ifle of the church there is part of a fuperb arch, 
 which formerly contained a magnificent monument in me- 
 mory of Sir John Hawkwood, who was a very remarkable 
 perfon, and who was born here. He was the fon of Gilbert 
 Hawkwood, a tanner or this place, and was bound apprentice 
 to a taylor in the city of London, where being preffed into 
 the fer vice of King Ed ward the Third, then about to make war 
 in France, he behaved himfelf fo gallantly, that he was firft 
 made a Captain, and then Knighted by that Prince. When 
 the French war was at an end, he offered his fervice to che 
 ftates of Florence, in which he fignalized himfelf fo much, 
 that Barnaby Galeazo, Duke of Milan, gave him his daughter 
 Domnia to wife, by whom he had a Ion, who was born in 
 Italy, but naturalized and Knighted in the reign of Henry 
 the Fourth. Sir John Hawkwood died ar a very advanced 
 age in 1394, and was buried in the cathedra] church of Santa 
 Maria Florida, at Flo ence, where that republic, put of gra- 
 titude to his mtmory and extraordinary deferts, have honoured 
 him with a fktue on horfeback, and a noble monument.— 
 
 A manor 
 
ESSE X. 
 
 275 
 
 A manor in the parifh of Sible Hedingham, called Hatvkf- 
 wood's Manor, derives its name from this eminent man* 
 
 At Mijiley Thorn, the late Richard Rigby, Efq; (father of 
 the prefent gentleman of the fame name, who is well known 
 in the political world) built a village of about thirty brick 
 houfes, convenient for tradefmen, and well inhabited- He 
 alfo built feveral granaries, warehoufes, a large malting office, 
 and made good quays and coal-yards, and there is now a large 
 trade carried on here. 
 
 There are three iflands fouth-weft of Harwich, called 
 Pewet, Horfey, and Holmes, which however are feparated from 
 the main land, only by the winding of aftream, and the in- 
 flux of the fea into that {beam. Upon thefe iflands there is 
 found a fea-fowl, which, when fat, is very delicious food. 
 South of thefe iflands there are three villages, which are in- 
 cluded within a liberty or Jordfhip, anciently called The Li" 
 herty of the Soke, in which the Sheriff of the county has no 
 power, and in which no writ can be executed but by the bai* 
 Jiff of the liberty, nor by him without the confent of the lord. 
 
 Thepsrifli of St. Ofyth is fwelve miles from Colchefier. 
 It derived its name from the lady Ofgyth, or Ofyth, who was 
 obliged by her father, againft her will, to marry Sighere, King 
 of the Eaft Angles. She found means, however, to prevent 
 the marriage being cenfummated; and, in the abfence of her 
 hufband, took the veil. He at length confented to her living 
 in a ftate of celibacy, and gave her a village which was fix- 
 ated at this place, called Chick, or Cice, and permitted her to 
 found here a church and a nunnery. But Inguaand Hubfra, 
 we are told, fpoiled the nunnery, and cauled her head to be 
 cutoff, at a fountain where (he ufed to wafh herfelf with her 
 virgins. She was buried, it is fasd, before the door of the 
 church ere&ed by herfelf. 
 
 At the diflance of five miles from Rochford is Hadley, or 
 Hadley ad Cqjlrum, as it has been ftiled ever Cmcx the rei^n of 
 King Henry the Third, when Hubert de Burgh, Lad of 
 Kent, built a caftle here. The ruins ftill extant ihew its an- 
 cient grandeur. It is near a mile fouth from the church, and 
 about three quarters of a mile from the road, facing the Chan- 
 
 2 M 2 mI 
 
?76 ESSEX. 
 
 nel or Ganvey IfhncL As it is fituated on the brow of a fteep 
 hill, the re is from thence a delightful prcfpecl: acrofs the 
 Thames into Kent. It is built of ftone, almoft of an oval 
 form ; theen^r^nce is at the north weft corner, between two 
 towers, and there are alfo two towers at the fouth eaft 
 and norrh-eaft corners, which are embattled, and have loop 
 hcks on rhe fides. The walls in the bottom of the towers 
 are nine feet thick, and the reft five feet ; and on the north 
 and fouth fides the walls are ftrengthened with buttrefles. 
 The cement or mortar, which is almoft as hard as the ftones 
 thrmfelves, hath in it a mixture of fhells of fea-fifh, &c. 
 At the entrance, the earth lying very near the towe s, a very 
 deep ditch is cut behind them which runs along the north 
 fide of the caftle. The ruins are now greatly over-grown, 
 Wnh buflies. 
 
 GLOUCES- 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 THIS county is bounded by Warwickfliire, Oxfordshire, 
 and Berkfhire, on the eaft ; by Herefordftiire and Mon- 
 mouthfhire on th* weft; by Worcefterfhire on the north ; 
 and by Wiltfhire and Somerfetfhire on the fouth. It mea- 
 fures in length, in a fouth-weft direction, about feventy miles ; 
 in breadth about forty ; and is two hundred miles in circum- 
 ference. 
 
 Though the air of this county is equally healthy through- 
 out, yet it is in other refpecls very different ; for the eaftern 
 part of it, which is called Cotefwold y being a hilly country, 
 the air is very (harp ; but in the middle part, called The Vale 
 cf Gloucefter, is foft and mild, even in winter ^ fuch indeed 
 is the difference, that of Cotefwold it is faid ; eight months 
 in the year are winter, and the other four too cold for fa m- 
 mer ; and of the Vale, that eight months are fummer, and 
 the other four too warm for winter. Cotefwold being thus 
 jexpoftd, was, heretofore, far from being remarkable for its 
 fertility, and the corn was fo flow in coming up, that, * c as 
 long a coming as Cotefwold barley," is become a proverb of 
 the county : the hills of Cotefwold however afford excellent 
 pafturage, and great numbers of jfheep are fed upon them, 
 whofe wool is remarkably fine; the breed of fluep which 
 produce the fine Spanifh wool, is faid to have been raifed 
 from fome of thefe fheep, which were fent as a prefent by 
 one of on? King* to a King of Spaim Of late, however, 
 the land is fo much improved, that the Coteiwo'd farmers 
 Jceep more than double the live ftock cbey were uled to do; 
 and, with judicious management, the produce of an acre will 
 fometimes equal that of a hke quantity of iand in the Vale, 
 where the rents are double and treble the price;, and the land 
 will not admit of proportionaDle improvements,. 
 
 The Vale of Glouctfterfhue lies chiefly on the fouth-eali 
 fide of the river Severn, which gives life and fpirit to the 
 foil. For extent and fertility it cannot be exceeded, pernaps 
 
 not 
 
278 
 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 not equalled in the kingdom. There are authentic proofs 
 fiill fubfifting that there were plantations of vines formerly 
 in this Vale. The cheefe called Gloucefter Cheefe> is made in 
 this part of the county, the beft of which is equal to any in 
 England, Chefhirenot excepted. 
 
 The Foreft of Dean, which contains above thirty thoufand 
 acres, being twenty miles long and ten broad, was covered witn 
 wood, and was a harbour for robbers, efpecially along the 
 banks of the Severn, in the reign of King Henry the Sixth, 
 when an a<St of parliament was made on purpofe to fupprefs 
 them. The woods have fince been reduced to narrower 
 bounds, by clearing part of the ground, where many towns and 
 villages have been built. The oaks that grow where the 
 woods have been ftill preferved are reckoned the beft in Eng- 
 land ^ and from this foreft moft part of the timber formerly 
 employed in /hip-building was brought, which was fo well 
 known to the Spaniards, that when they fitted out their fa- 
 mous armada in 1 558 to invade England, the people who had 
 the direction of that expedition, were exprefsly ordered to 
 deftroy this foreft, as the moft fpeedy and effe&ual way to 
 ruin our marine. On the other hand, to cultivate and pre- 
 ferve the wood in a fufEcient part of this diftri& has been the 
 conftant care of our legiflature. Great part of it was en- 
 clofed by an a£l of parliament pafled in the reigri of King 
 Charles the Second ; and fome time ago, many cottages which 
 had been built in and near the woods were ordered to be pulled 
 down, becaufe the inhabitants damaged the trees, by cutting 
 or lopping them for fuel. — In this part of the county there 
 are alio many rich mines of iron and coal, for the working of 
 which fcve al ads of parliament have pafled $ and at Tayn- 
 ton, a little village nearNewent, a gold mine was discovered 
 about the year 17CO, of which a leafe was granted to fome refi- 
 ners, who extradted fome gold from the ore, but did not go on 
 with the work, becaufe the quantity of gold was fo fmall as 
 not always to anfwer theexpence of the feparation. — The 
 King has a fwanimote court here, as in all forefts, to preferve 
 the vert or venifon, of which the verdurers are the judges, 
 whoarechofen by the freeholcers of the county. The mi- 
 ners top have a court here, in which a fteward, appointed by 
 the conftable of the foreft, prefides j and juries of miners, 
 who have their particular laws and cuftoms by which they 
 aie governed, determine all differences and difputes that arife 
 
 between 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 279 
 
 between them. — The privileges of 'he foreft are very exten- 
 five. The free miners claim a rig^r bv p refer iption of dig* 
 ging iron ore and coal in rhe foreft., neceffary to carry on their 
 works, as well in the lands of private perfons as in the King's 
 foil. 
 
 This county produces a confiderable quantity of corn, 
 though not enough for its inhabitants ; about eight thoufand 
 tons of excellent cheefe annually, valued at upwards of two 
 hundred thoufand pounds, mo ft of which is fent to London ; 
 befides cyder, perry, bacon, coals, and fifh, particularly faU 
 mon, of which a large quantity is fent to London. So much 
 admired is the cyder produced in the Fo^eO: of Dean, the beft 
 fort of whic h is called Styre Cyder, that competent judges 
 have declared it to be the beft in England ; and Styre cyder 
 has frequently been fold at twenty guineas the hogfhead. 
 The rivers, efpecially the Severn, afford great plenty of fiih, 
 abounding with falmon, lampreys, elvers, and fine eels. 
 
 There are feveral large rivers in this county, of which the 
 principal are the Severn, the Wye, the otroud, and the two 
 Avons. The Severn, which is efteemed the fecond river in 
 England, rifes on the eaft fide of a vaft mountain called 
 Plyn Lymmon^ in the fouth-weft part of Montgomerylhire, in 
 Wale:, from whence, by a variety of windings, it runs north- 
 eaft, and enters Shropfhire, where being joined by a great num- 
 ber of fmaller dreams, it runs through that county and Wor* 
 cefterfhire, in the dire&ion of fouth; it enters Glouceft?p- 
 fhire at Tewkefbury, whence running fouth weft by the city 
 of Glouceftcr it falls into that part of the weftern fea, called 
 The Bri/iol Channel. The tide Ho ws up the Severn as far as 
 Tewkefbury, which is near feventy miles from the fea ; and 
 from Newnham town upon this river, upwards of fifty miles 
 from the fea to its mouth, it has more the appearance of a lea 
 than a river; the flood tideadvances with fuch impetuofity, that 
 in one fweli it fomttimes rifes near four feet —The Wye rifes 
 witnin ha;f a mile of thefource of the Severn, and running fouth- 
 eaft, feparates Radnorfhire and Brecknockihire (two counties 
 in Wales) horn each other; it then pafles through Hereford- 
 ftiire, and parting Monmouthihire from Gioucefterlhire, falls 
 into the Severn near Chepttow. — The Suoud riles not far eaft 
 from Painfwick, and, running weft ward, falls into the Severn, 
 about five miles fouth of the city of Gloucefter. I he water 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 of this river is remarkably clear, and fixes the colours mixed 
 with it for dying broadcloth, fcarlet, or any grain colour, 
 better than any other ; for this reafon feveral clothiers have 
 fettlrd along: the banks for twenty miles together, and have 
 erected a vaft number of fulling mills upon it! of thefe clo- 
 thiers fome ufed formerly to make each a thoufand pieces of 
 cloth a year. No part of thi c river was navigable till the year 
 1730, when it was made fo by aft of parliament, quite from 
 Stroud to its conflux with the Severn, — One of the rivers 
 Avon rifes in Northamptonfhire, and running through War- 
 wick (hi re, and feparating Gloucefterfhire from Worcefter- 
 fhire, falls into the Severn near Tewkefbury. — The other 
 Avon, diftinguifhed by the name of Avon Weft, rifes not far 
 from Tetbury, near th? bordersof W iltfhire, and feparating 
 Gloucefterfhire from Somerfetfhire, falls into ;he Severn near 
 Briftoh 
 
 This county is generally divided into three diftn&s. The 
 eaftern part of the county, bordering upon Warwickfhire, 
 Oxfordshire, and Berkfhire, is called Cote/wold; the middle 
 part, the Vale of Gloucefter ; and the triangular part, in* 
 eluded between the Wye, the Severn, and a fmall river called 
 the Leden, is called The Forejl of Dean. — The Vale of Glou- 
 eeiter manifeftly derived its name from its fiiuation, and the fo* 
 reft was probably called The Fovejl of Dean^fvom Dean, the prin— 
 cipal town in the diftrici ; fome have fuppofed the word Dean % 
 to be a corruption of 4rdeh % a name ufed by the ancient GauIs 
 and Britons to lignify a wood \ and there is a wood in War- 
 wkkihire called At den to this day. 
 
 This county is divided into thirty hundreds, and contains 
 one city and twenty-eight ma ket-towns. It lies in the pro- 
 vince of Canterbury, is a diocefe of itfeif, and concains two 
 hundred and eighty nine pa iflies. 
 
 The principal roanii'aciure of this county is woollen 
 cloth; and it is computed fifty thoufand piecesof doth are 
 made yearly in this couniy, which being tftimated at ten 
 pounos a piece, the fine with the coarfe, amounts to five n an- 
 d*red thoufand pounds. The iron manufactory cat ned on in 
 the foreft of Dean, is a}fo very confiderable, aod employs a 
 grc^t number of hafrds. Pins, cards for the uie ot cl .truers, 
 heavy edge tuolh, and felt- hats are alfo made in this county in 
 great perfection, bdides many other articles ot inferior con- 
 lequence, 
 
 CITY, 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE* 
 
 23x 
 
 CITY. 
 
 The city of Gloucester is one hundred and one miles 
 from London, and ftands on a pleafant hill, with houfes on 
 every defcenr, and is a c'ean well builr town, with the Severn 
 on one fide, a branch of which brings fhips to it. It is 
 about three miles in circumference, and is beautified with a 
 cathedral, befides live parifh churches, and is exceedingly 
 well provided with hofpitals, particularly an excellent county- 
 infirmary, after the manner of thofe at London, Winchefter, 
 Bath, &c. It was anciently a Roman colony, and governed 
 by a ccnful. Forging of iron feems to have been its manu- 
 facture fo early as the time of William the Norman. King 
 Henry the Eight h made it the fee of a bifliop, with a dean and 
 fix prebends ; though Camden thinks it had that honour in 
 the time of the Britons* Its caftle, which was.erected in the 
 time of William the Norman, is very much decayed $ pare 
 of it is leafed out by the crown, and the reft ferves for a pri— 
 fon, and is one of the beft in England. The cathedral is an 
 ancient but magnificent fabric, and has a tower, faid to be 
 one of the neateft and mo ft curious pieces of architecture in 
 England ; and in this church are twelve chapels, adorned 
 with the arms and monuments of many great perfons, and 
 the tombs of King Edward the Second, and of Robert Duke 
 of Normandy, fon of William the Firft. There is alfo a 
 gallery over the eaftend of the choir, leading from one end of 
 it to the other, which is deemed a great cunofity, as a whif- 
 pering place \ it is of a hexagonal form, confifting of fix 
 fides and fix angles, and is twenty-five yards over, in the 
 wideft place: one of the fides is a window, yet if two per- 
 fons go to the moft diftant parts and whifper, they will be 
 perfectly heard by each other in their turns. This cathedral 
 is a beautiful piece of archite&ure, and is remarkable for its 
 bells, the largeft of which weighs fix thoufand five hundred 
 pounds, and requires eight men to ring her. The cloifters 
 belonging to it are very beautiful. Here are abundance of 
 crcflts, and ftatues of our kings, fome of whom kept their 
 Chriftmas here, feveral market-houfes fupported with pillars, 
 and large remains of monafterie*, which were once fo nume- 
 rous, that it gave occafion to the monkifh proverb, As Jure as 
 God is in Gloucefter* Here is a barley-market, and an nand- 
 Vol» I, 2 N fome. 
 
282 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 fome hall for the affizes, called the Booth Hall* It has a 
 good ftone bridge over the river, befides a quay, a wharf, and 
 a cuftom-houfe ; and under the bridge is a water engine to 
 fupply t he town, though it is ferved with it alfo from Robin 
 Hood's Well, to which there is a fine walk about two miles 
 from the city. 
 
 Camden fays that the famous Roman way called Ermin* 
 Jireet^ which begins at St. David's, in Pembrokefhire, and 
 reaches to Southampton, paflfes through this city.— Sudmead 
 in the neighbourhood is noted for horfe races. 
 
 The trade of this city was formerly very confiderable, but 
 it is greatly decayed fjnce that of Briftol became fo great; 
 and pin-making is now one of its chief manufactures. It is 
 governed by a fteward, a mayor, twelve aldermen, and other 
 officers* It has twelve incorporated co mpanies, whofe maf- 
 ters attend the mayor on all public occafions, with their 
 flreamers, &c« Here is alfo a charity-fchool. The citizens 
 have ere&ed the ftatues of Queen Anne and King George 
 the Firfe, in one of the high ftreets, both bigger than the life. 
 This city gives the title of Duke to his Majefty's fecond 
 brother. 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Cirencester, commonly called Cicester, *cok its 
 name fr<- m having been zcefier, or cajlle^ upon a fnrisil river 
 called the Churn, that falls into the Thames at Cricklade, in 
 "Wiltfhire. it is difhnt from London ninety miles, is di- 
 vided into feven wards, and by fome thought to be the oldeft t 
 and to have formerly been the largeft town in the county. 
 Bang Henry the Fourth gave it a charter and feveraf privi* 
 leges,, and Queen Elisabeth gave it another, by which it was 
 governed by a fte'ward and hamfF, and now is governed by two 
 high confbbles and fourteen wardfmen, who are appointed 
 yearly at the court leet ^ it is a poft town, and maintains a 
 irage to -ch to London. It had once three panfh churches, 
 bqr now has only one, which is large and beautiful, and in 
 wh ch a-e twenty -eight windows of painted g'afs, reprefent- 
 ingfcripiUM^ hiltory,a? d fhe hiiiory of feveral fathers, mar- 
 tyrs, and perfecutors of the Chriftian church, and exhibiting 
 the feveral rdigioiis orders of fcheciiurch of Rome, from the 
 
 Pope 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 283 
 
 Pope to the mendicant friar. Here is a free fchool and a 
 charity fchool, with feveral hofpitals and alms~houfes. In 
 this town is one of the greateft markets in the kingdom for 
 wool and woollen manufactures, there having been fome years 
 no lefs than five thoufand packs of wool brought hither from 
 Leicefterfhire, Northam >tonfhire, and Lincolnshire, an J fold 
 to the clothiers of Gloucefterfliire and Wilcfhire. There is 
 a great deal of travelling here from the north to the weft of 
 England, 
 
 Ancient coins have been dug up in and near this town, to- 
 gether with pillars and pavements, fuppofed to have been 
 thofe of a temple and bath. 
 
 Cirencefter races are held on North Cerney Down, four 
 miles north of the town. The courfe is efteemed a very 
 good one. 
 
 Tewkesbury is fituated on the conflux of the Severn with 
 the Avon, that runs out of Warwickshire, and thefe rivers 
 with the fmaller ftreams of the Carron and the Swyliiate, 
 almoft furround the town. It is diftant from London one v 
 hundred and two miles, and had its firft privileges from King 
 Edward the Second ; tney were confirmed by feveral fucc;-ed- 
 ing Kings, and the town was at length re-incorporated by 
 James the Firft. it is governed by twenty-four burgeffes, 
 two of whom are chofen bailiffs yearly, who are the ruling 
 magiftrates, and have jurifdi&ion within the borough, exciu- 
 five of thejuftices of the peace for the county : This corpo- 
 ration was diffolved by proclamation of James the Second, 
 but reftored again by William the Third. 
 
 It is a lar^e, beautiful, 2nd populous town, confiding of 
 three well built ftreets, and many lanes ; it has a bridge over 
 three of the four rivers that run by it, and a magnificent 
 church, which is the largeft in England that is neither colle- 
 giate nor cathedral ; it is adorned with a ftately tower, and 
 contains many funeral monuments. Here is a fres-fchool, 
 befides an holpital, endowed with forty pounds a-year, by 
 Mary, the Queen of King William the Tnird, to be paid out 
 of the Exchequer, for the maintenance of thirteen poor peo- 
 ple, and a reader who is appointed by the corporation. Near 
 this town is a piece of ground called The Ham , which is a 
 courfe for horfe-races. 
 
 2 N 2 This 
 
284 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 This town had formerly fome {hare in the clothing bufineft, 
 but that has long been loft. Its chief trade at prefent is 
 malting, ftGcking-frame-knitting, efpecially of cotton, and a 
 liitle* nailing It was once famous for making muftard balls, 
 from whence arofe the proverb, 46 He looks as if he had 
 " lived on Tewkefbury muftard fpeaking of one of a 
 fad, fevere countenance : And Shakefpear ufes the fimile 
 * 4 As thick as Tewkcfbury muftard."— It fends two members 
 to parliament. 
 
 Cheltenham is fitualed one hundred miles from London, 
 almoft due weft, in a fine healthy clear air, and in a plentiful 
 country. The church is a handfome old building, built in 
 the form of a crofs, having an high and elegant octagonal 
 fpire, which has lately been repaired. The mimfter of the 
 place muft be a fellow of Jefus College, Oxford, nominated 
 by that feciety, and approved by the Earl of Gainfborough. 
 He can hold the living but fix years, unlefs re-ele&ed, which 
 has generally happened. The church-yard is one of the moil 
 beautiful in England, extending from eaft to weft about three 
 hundred feet, and is rendered particularly agreeable by its 
 walks being (haded with double rows of lime-trees, which 
 furround and crofs it* It is now much frequented on account 
 of its excellent mineral waters, which are faid to have lately 
 performed fome furprifing cures, which have greatly increafed 
 their reputation. There are here very handfome accommo- 
 dations for thofe who drink the waters, as well as a variety of 
 amufements, during the feafon, for the entertainment of gen- 
 teel company. 
 
 In this town are an hofpital, a free-fchool, and a charity- 
 fchool, all founded in the year 1 574, by Richard Pates, Efq. 
 
 Cheltenham is about a mile in length, and has lately been 
 much improved and enlarged. The country about it is ex^ 
 tremely pleafant, and the rides and walks fufficiently varie- 
 gated. A great trade was formerly carried on here in malt, 
 but it is now very inconfiderable ; the only manufacture being 
 that of cotton ftcckings, which have a great fale. The wo- 
 men and children of the poorer fort comb and fpin woollen 
 yarn for the clothiers at Stroud. 
 
 Campden is eighty- fix miles from London, and isfituated 
 on the edge of Worcefterfhire, under the fide of fome hills. 
 * All 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 285 
 
 All the Saxon Kings are faid to have held a congrefs here in 
 the year 689, to confult about war or peace with the Britons. 
 This town is noted for the manufacture of ftockmgs and was 
 incorporated by James the Firth The church here contains 
 fome fine marble monuments, of which the moti fumptuous, 
 fupported by twelve pillars, is erected to the memory of Sir 
 John Baptift Hickes, Vifcount Campden, who gave ten 
 thoufand pounds in his life-time to charitable ufes, and was a 
 great benefactor to the town. There are ftill left here fome 
 remains of a noble houfe which belonged to him, but the 
 greater part of which was burnt down by the loyalifts in the 
 civil war, to prevent its being made a garrifon for the army of 
 the parliament There is a grammar-fchool in this town, 
 two charity fchools, and other foundations for the benefit of 
 the poor. 
 
 Colford, or Covard, is a fmall town, one hundred and 
 twenty-four miles from London, fituated in the Foreft of 
 Dean, in the road from Gloucefter to Monmouth, 
 
 t 
 
 Fairford is eighty miles from London, and derives its 
 name from its old ford over the river Coin, on which it has 
 now two good bridges. It is chiefly noted for its church, 
 which is famous throughout Europe for its excellent painted 
 glafs. The . church has twenty eight large windows, oil 
 twenty of which are reprefented, in beautiful colours and ex- 
 quifite drapery, proper attitudes and curious perfpeclives, the 
 moll ftriking pafTigcsof the Old and New Teftament ; and 
 jbme of them fo confummately nnifhed, that Vandyke af- 
 firmed the pencil could not exceed them. The paintings were 
 deiigned by that eminent Italian Albert Durer, and taken in 
 a prize fhip bound for Rome, by John Fons, Efq; then a mer- 
 chant in London, who brought both glafs and workmen into 
 England ; and having purchased tivs manor of Henry the 
 Seventh, in I493, founded and built this church for the fike 
 of the glafs, and proportioned the windows exactly to each 
 hiftory. The church is a beautiful pile, one hundred and 
 twenty-five feet long, and fifty-five broad, confiding of a fpa- 
 cious body, two ifles, three chancels, and a veftry, with a 
 handfome and well adorned tower in the middle, fupported by 
 elegant fluted pillars. Two of the windows reprefent the 
 
 perfecutors 
 
aS6 
 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 perfecutors of the church, with devils over their heads ; and 
 in the two oppoiite windows are fomeof the Roman Emperors 
 Mho were prcfcrvers of the church, with angels over them. 
 In the fifteenth window is a piece of glafs reprefenting dia- 
 monds and rubies, reckoned of great value* In the fifteenth 
 window appears Dives in Hell, and alfo a woman conveying 
 thither in a wheel barrow for fcolding her hulband. The 
 lead of the windows is fo admirably difpofed, that a ftranger 
 will not eafily difcover any, as it is generally made to ferve 
 the darker (hades. Ancient coins and urns have frequently 
 been dug up about this town. 
 
 Stanley Leonard is one hundred and four miles from 
 London, and derived its name from its having been a priory, 
 dedicated to St, Leonard. There is a charity-fchool in this 
 town. 
 
 Painswich is one hundred miles from London, and is 
 pleaiantly fituated in the beft air in the county. Here is a 
 large handfome church, and the woollen manufactory is car* 
 ried on here. 
 
 Stroud is one hundred and one miles from London, and 
 is fituated on a hill, at the foot of which runs the river com- 
 monly called Stroud Water ^ famous for its peculiar quality ia 
 dying fcarlet broad-cloth, and all other grain colours, in the 
 beft n-anner ; for this reafon many clothiers live near it j and 
 for twenty miles on the banks of this river, mills and other 
 conveniences are erected for fulling. The fleeces of the flieep 
 fed near this town are Superlatively good. 
 
 Sodbury Chipping is diftant from London one hundred and 
 twd e miies,and ss an ancient borough, originally governed 
 by a bailiff, but in 1681 it was made a corporation, with a 
 mayor, fix aldermen, and twelve burgefles ; it was again dis- 
 incorporated by a proclamation of January 2, 1688* The 
 bailiffs and burghers are (till empowered to diftribute eighty- 
 eight cow-pallures to as many of the inhabitants, and eight 
 acres of meadows for their own lives and thofe of their wi- 
 dows, and as they fall, to grant them again in the like man- 
 ner. This town being a great thoroughfare in the road from 
 Briftol to Cirencefter and Oxfordfhire, is well provided with 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 287 
 
 large Inns. Here is a foacious church, though it is but a cha- 
 pel of eafe to Old Sodbury, a village in the neighbourhood ; 
 here is alfo a frre-fchnol, and the greateft cheefe- market in 
 England, except Atherfton on the Stour, in Warwickfhire. 
 
 Stow on the Would, called in the records Stow St Ed- 
 ward* is eighty-one miles from London. It ftands fo rrgh, 
 and is fo expofed to the winds, that the inhabitants are faid to 
 have only one element, and that is air,there being neither wood, 
 common, field, nor water belonging to the town. It has 2l 
 church, which is a large building, with a high tower, and 
 contains feveral monuments; it has alfo an hofpital, alms* 
 houfe, and free-fchoo!s, beficles other charitable inftitutions, 
 all well endowed, the poor here being very numerous The 
 fairs of the town are famous for hops, cheefe, and efpeci iliy 
 fheep, of which it is faid that twenty thoufand were fold in 
 one October fair. 
 
 Northleech, or Ncrtbleche, fo called from its fitu- 
 ation upon the river Lecfte, is eighty miles from London, and 
 is governed by a bailiff and two co (tables. It has a neat 
 church, and feveral alms-houfes, and a good gramma r -fchoo! > 
 which is free to ail the boys in the town, and endowed with 
 eighty pounds a year by Hugh Weft wold, Efq; who being 
 afterwards reduced, is faid to have applied to the truftees to 
 be rnafter of it, hut was denied By a decree of Chancery in 
 the reign of King James the Firlt, this fchool was fettled on 
 Queen's College, Oxford. 
 
 Thornbury is fituated two miles from the eaftern bank 
 of the Severn, on a rivulet that runs into it, and at the dis- 
 tance of one hundred and twenty miles from London. The 
 town (which gives its name to the hundred) has a cuftomary or 
 titular mayor, twelve aldermen, whomuft previoufly have been 
 mayor*, and two conftables. In the civil wars it was fo tified 
 for Charles the Firft, as a check upon the garrifon of Glou- 
 cester. The church here is large, in form of a cathedral, 
 with fpacious ifles on each lide, together with a crofs and a 
 beautiful high tower at the weft end. Here are four alms- 
 houfes and a frte-fchool. 
 
 Berkeley 
 
288 
 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 Bepkeley is diftant from London one hundred and thir* 
 teen miles, and an ancient borough, governed by a mayor 
 and aldermen. It has a church, which is a large handfome 
 building, and a charityfchoo) ; it has alfo a caftle, where 
 King Edward the Second was imprifoned, and the room in 
 which he was confined is frill to be feen» The manor in which 
 this town lies is cal'ed in old records The Honour of Berkeley^ 
 and is one of the largeft in England, moft of the towns of Berke- 
 ley hundred, and many other places in the county, including 
 near thirty parifhes, depending upon it; and the lands that 
 are held of it are worth thirty thoufand pounds a year. 
 
 Letchlade takes its name from the piece of ground it 
 Hands upon, formerly called The Lade , and a fmall river that 
 runs near it, called The Lech, It {lands upon the river 
 Thames, on the borders of Qxfordfhire and Berkfhire, at the 
 diilanceof fevenfy-feven miles from London. The Thames, 
 after having been formed by the feveral ftreams of the Lech, 
 the Coin, the Churn, and the Ifis, begins to be navigable at 
 this town, and barges come to its quay to take in butter* 
 cheefe, and other goods for London, which renders this placO 
 not inconfinerable, 
 
 Maeshfieid is one hundred and four miles from London, 
 in the road to Briftol, and on the borders of Wiltfhire. It is 
 governed by a bailiff, and ccnfifts chiefly of one ftreet of old 
 buildings, near a mile long j it has a large church and an alms- 
 houfe, with a chapel belonging to it, well endowed, for eight 
 poor people. Here is alfo a charity-fchool, maintained by the 
 lord of the manor. This town carries on a confiderable trade 
 in cloth and malt, and is famous for its cakes. 
 
 Great Dean, or Michael Dean, is the principal town 
 in the Foreft or Dean, and is diftant from London one hun- 
 dred and fixtecn miles. It confitis chiefly of one flreet, and 
 has a good church, with a handfome fpire : its principal ma- 
 nufacture was formerly cloth, but now it is pins. The hills 
 round this town abound with iron ore, and there are feveral 
 furnaces for melting it, and forges for beating the iron into 
 flats. The workmen are very induflrious in difcovering the 
 beds of the old cfnders, which not being fully exhaufted of 
 the metal, are purchafed of the owners of the land at a good 
 
 price, 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 289 
 
 price, and being burnt again in the furnaces afford better 
 iron than the ore new dug from the mines* 
 
 Wotton under Edge ftands on a pleafant and fruitful 
 eminence, at the diftance of one hundred and eight miles from 
 London. The chief magiftrate, who is chofen yearly at the 
 court-leet, is called a mayor, and is eyer after an alderman. It 
 is a pretty town, and has a handfome church, with feveral mo- 
 numents in it of the family of Berkeley. There is at this 
 place a free-fchool, and an alms- houfe for fix poor men and 
 fix women. The town is fupplied with water, which was 
 brought hither at the expence of an Alderman of London, 
 Hugh Perry, Efq,— -Wotton has been long noted for making 
 woollen cloth ; and its parifh is twelve miles in circuit. 
 
 Newent took its name from an inn called The New Inn % 
 which was fet up for the accommodation of paffengers on 
 their journey to and from Wales. It is fituated on a fma!l 
 river, navigable by boats in the Foreil of Dean, at thediftanee 
 of one hundred and fourteen miles from London. It has a 
 handfome church, three alrns-houfes, and two charity-fchools. 
 
 Dursley is diilant from London one hundred and fevea 
 miles, and is a corporation, governed by a bailiff and four 
 conftables. It is remarkable for a good manufactory of 
 woollen cloth, and for a rock of ftone without any chop or 
 flit in it, of an incredible durance, yet foft in hewing, and 
 called by the inhabitants Puff Stone* Thewalls built with 
 it (hew but little decay in five hundred years. 
 
 Minching Hampton took its name from an order of nuns 
 at Caen, in Normandy, called Mincbings^ to whom it for* 
 merly belonged. It is diftant from London ninety miles, and 
 has a large church, built in the form of a crofs. 
 
 Morton in Marsh is diftant from London eighty«two 
 miles, and within a mile of the town, in the great road from 
 London to Worcefter, are the four Ihire ftones, where the 
 counties of Gloucefter, Warwick, Oxford, and Worcefter, 
 meet. 
 
 Vo. I. 
 
 WlCKWARE 
 
2 9 o GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 Wickware is diffont from London one hundred and 
 twelve miles. It is a very ancient corporation, governed by 
 a mayor and aldermen ; the mayor is an alderman ever after. 
 The town is well watered by two brooks, over one of which 
 is a handfome (tone bridge. It has a free-fchool, and the 
 neighbouring wafies afford it plenty of coal. 
 
 Winchcomb is diftant ninety-three miles from London ; 
 it was anciently a county or fheriffdom of itfelf, and was a 
 borough in the reign of Edward the Confeflbr. Here is an 
 airns-houfe for tweive poor women. The inhabitants of this 
 town planted tobacco to a very good account, till they were 
 retrained in the twelfth of Charles the Second, after which 
 the town by little and little decayed, and is now poor and ia- 
 confiderable. 
 
 Tetbury, iHtuate between Sodbury Chipping and Ciren- 
 cefler, at the diftance of ninety nine miles from London, is a 
 fine populous well built town, in a healthy air, and on a rifing 
 ground. The revenues of this town are managed by a bailiff, 
 chofen yearly. Here is a free-fchool, and an alms-houfe for 
 eight poor people; and in the middle of the town is a large 
 rrarket- hcufe for the cofiveniency of the yarn trade, which is 
 the chief article, and a fmall market-hcufe for cheefe, bacon, 
 and ether commodities. The Avon has its fource in this 
 town., and that river runs through Bath and Briftol into the 
 Severn ; and at the town's end there is along and handfome 
 bridge, built 101775, But what chiefly merits attention is 
 the elegant parifh church, lately built here, and opened for 
 divine fervice in -1781, which is formed in the true Gothic 
 tafte, and will give pleafure to every perfon of difcernment. 
 Water was fo fcarce here formerly in dry fummers, as to cofl: 
 eighteen pence ahegfhead; but that inconvenience was in a 
 £reat meafure removed in 1749* by the Reverend Mr. Wight, 
 then vicar of this place, who fet on foot a fubfeription for 
 Unkinp a well one hundred and four feet deep, which was car- 
 jied into execution, and the attempt fucceeded fo well, that 
 a rpriing was found almofl fufficient for the ufeof the whole 
 town. There are races held annually about a mile eaft of this 
 town, which are much frequented* As a proof how remark- 
 ably healthy this town is, it n:ay not be amifs to mention the 
 moft extraordinary inftance of longevity to be produced in this 
 
 county, 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 291 
 
 county, namely, of one Henry Weft, who, in the reign of 
 James the Firft, refided at Upton, a harn!et in this parifh, who 
 lived to the age of one hundred and fifty-two years ; and one 
 of his defcendants has a Bitde in his poffefiion, wherein it is 
 written, that he had five wives ; by four he had no children, 
 but by the fifth he had ten ; and lived to fee a hundred grand- 
 children, to each of whom he gave a brafs pot or kettle. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Near Cirencefter is the delightful feat of Earl Bathurfi. 
 The houfedoes not contain any thing remarkable in its out- 
 ward appearance, but within it is finiihed in the moft delight- 
 ful manner. This feat is diftinguifhed by its extenfiveand 
 elegant plantations, laid out and perfected in the life-time and 
 under the particular direction of Allen Earl Bathurft, tamer 
 to the prefent noble proprietor. The entrance to the park is 
 at a lodge on the north fide of the houfe, by a fpacious gravel 
 walk, lined on each fide by aiovv of Itately elms. Ac a frntll 
 diftance from the entrance, to the left, is an oblique profpect 
 of the north-weft front of the houfe, with a fine fweep of 
 lawn before it, and a grove of lofty trees on each fide j turn- 
 ing to the right the waik divides, one branch leads to the ter- 
 race, the other runs by the fide of it in a terpentine direcuoa 
 above a mile in length, finely arched and ihaded - 9 at the end 
 is a fmall building called Pope's Seat^ where this great genius 
 frequently retired when on a vilit to his not>le friend $ tnere is 
 a lawn before it, to the centre of which eight viftas are di~ 
 reded, terminating with the profpect of neighbouring cnurches 
 and other agreeable objedts j one of them a fine loity co- 
 lumn, in the midft of the deer park, on which is placed trie 
 fiatueof Queen Anne, larger than life; it is near arniiedjf- 
 tant from me houfe, behind which Itands the beautiful tower 
 of the parifh church of Cirencellcr, io dustily in the centre 
 of it, with their fronts parallel to each other, mac an 00- 
 icrver, at the pillar, might be eafily induced to bdieye me 
 tower to be part of the houfe, were it not of a dtiferent 
 colour. 
 
 The terras is faeltered on the narth-eaft by a thick planta- 
 tion of wood, with a border of ihrubs and evergreens; ic 
 commands a dilUnt profpect of the north Wiluiiue, and 
 
 2 Q 2 terminates 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 terminates at an handfome oclagonal building, about a mile 
 from the houfe. In the middle of the terrace, at a large pair 
 of gates, (a communication between the deer and lodge parks) 
 is feen a large lake of water a little to the right of the houfe, 
 having the appearance of a confiderable river, but is only a 
 pleafmg deception produced by planting clumps of trees, to 
 conceal the extremities of the lake; and was n<~c ffary, from 
 the fparing hand with which nature has dealt its favours, as to 
 that element, to this place, there not being, perhaps, a peren- 
 nial fpring to be found within it. The eye is no where of- 
 fended with the appearance of bare walls, nor can it judge of 
 the extent of the park, as the country about it is taken into 
 view, ever *'olTes and concealed boundaries, purpofely made 
 where they have the beft effect. 
 
 To the weftward of this park are the lodge, park, and Oak- 
 ley woods, which deferve particular notice. Near the middle 
 of them, on a rifing ground, is the point from which, like fe 
 many radii, ten cuts or ridings iffue 5 the largeft, about fifty 
 yards wide, has rhe lofty tower of Cirenceifer to terminate the 
 view ; others directed to neighbouring country churches, 
 clumps of trees, and various diftant objects^ produce an ad- 
 mirable effect. The truffle is a vegetable production, found in 
 iufficient abundance in thefe woods. — Concealed as it were in 
 the wood?, is Alfred's Hall, a building that is an excellent 
 imitation of antiquity, with a bowling green, and many beau* 
 tiful lawns and agreeable walks about it. 
 
 Badmington Magna^ about three miles from Chipping Sod- 
 bury, is the feat of the Duke of Beaufort. The manfion- 
 houfe is very noble ; and here are large parks, pleafant walks^ 
 and elegant gardens, decorated with a great variefy of foun- 
 tains. Henry, one of the late Dukes, made fuch additions 
 to it, that it is thought one of the compleateii feats in the 
 kingdom ; and ..when King William the Third paffed this 
 way, he faid to the Duke, that he did not wonder that he 
 never came to court, fince he had fo fta:ely a palace of his 
 cwn to keep his court in. 
 
 Near Gloucejler is the elegant feat of Sir John Guife, 
 to which belongs a noble park, well ftocked wun deer; and 
 from a hill h'ere is a moft agreeable view of the courfe of the 
 river Severn^ with its beautiful windings ana turnings for 
 
 ebove 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 293 
 
 above twenty miles, whilft the whole city of Gloucefter ap- 
 pears below as only a diminutive village. The whole prof- 
 peel: from this hill, which is exceedingly romantic, is termi- 
 nated by a majeftic range of mountains. 
 
 Sotitham is a large tything, in the pari/h of Cleeve, wherein 
 Thomas Baghot Delabere, Efq; who is lord of the manor, 
 has a leat and a very fine eftate. The houfe is one of the 
 greateft curiofities in the county \ it is a low building in the 
 #ile of the age of Henry the Fourth. The anceftor of this 
 family, Richard Dalabar, came into England with William 
 the Conqueror ; and Sir Richard Dalabar, fifth in defcent 
 from the above, being prefenc at the battle of Creffy, in the 
 twentieth year of the reign of Edward the Third, 134.79 ac* 
 quired great honour by refcuing Edward the Black Prince 
 when in eminent danger, and was by him prefented with the 
 prefentcreft to the family arms, which is fiveofhich feathers 
 jfluing from a ducal coronet. 
 
 Near Gloucefter is the elegant feat of Thomas Heywood, 
 Efq; and alfo that of Charles Barrow, Efq. Hardwicke^ near 
 Gloucefter, is the feat of the Earl or Hard wicke* At £>uedg- 
 ley is the feat of Mr, Hay ward, and at Hayman that of Air. 
 Coke, both in the neighbourhood of Giouceiter, At Cow* 
 berley y eight miles from Gioucefter, is the ancient feat of the 
 Howes. AtStowe/y thirteen milrsfrom Gloucefter, is the feat 
 of the Earl of Stafford. Berkeley Cajile is the feacof the 
 Earl of Berkeley. Stoke Lodge, near BriftoJ, is trie feat of 
 Norborne Berkeley, E q. At Gourfe Cowt, near Tew kef- 
 bury, is the feat of the Earl of Covcutry 5 a£ Kempsford, near 
 Lechlade, that of Lord We) m rath $ at Sandywe!l y near 
 Cheltenham, thatof the Earlof Hericrd ; at High Meadows, 
 near Monmouth, that of Lord G >ge; at Stoke Bi/hop, chat of 
 Sir Robert Cann ; and near Fair ford, that of chelate James 
 Lambe, tfqj the gardens and wiicernefs belonging to wnieh 
 are laid out in a modern and moil elegant tafte. 
 
 On the bank of the river j^von, near Briftol, is a very high 
 and fteep rock, called St. Vincent's Rocky and on the oppohte 
 bank is the county of bomerfet. There are other rocks of an 
 equal fize, which, with the river flowing be]o# them, .afford 
 a very ftnking romantic profpeel, which is heightened oy the 
 
 ihips 
 
294 
 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 fhips and other veflels that are continually paffing between 
 them to and from Briftol. In St. Vincent's Rock is found a 
 kind of fpars, commonly called Briftol Stones ^ which, before 
 the compofition called French Pajle was invented, were prized 
 for their luftre, which came nearer to that of a diamond than 
 any thing then known. 
 
 About half a mile between the Severn and Briftol, there is 
 a pit in a rock, whence iead or ore was formerly dug, called 
 Pen Park Hole* Thedefcent is narrow, in form of a tunnel, 
 being about two yards wide, and nearly forty deep. Having 
 paffed through the rock, it opens into a cave feventyfive yards 
 long, forty-one broad, and nineteen high. In this cave there 
 is a pool of fweet water, twenty-feven yards long, twelve 
 broad, and five and a half deep. 
 
 The Fore/1 of King/wood, near Briftol, contains about five 
 hundred acres, conhfting of coal-mines. The houfes here 
 are very compact, as in a market-town ; and the cloth manu- 
 facture has made it pretty populous. On the edge of this 
 forelr, near the bank of the Avon, about a mile from Briftol, 
 are the famous works for fmelting copper* 
 
 At PPoodchefler^ a village near Stanley Leonard, a curious 
 Roman pavement of mofaic work was difcovered in the year 
 1772. It is of a confiderable extent, and reprefents birds 
 and beafts in the natural colours, befides a variety of other 
 devices, beautifully executed. 
 
 At Cromhall, a village between Wickware and Thornbury, 
 was found fome years ago another pavement of the fame kind, 
 eighteen feet and a half long, and near fifteen feet and a half 
 broad, compofed of cubical ftones, of beautiful colours* 
 ftrongly cemented. 
 
 Beverjlone Cqftle, about a mile north-eaft of Tetbury, was 
 built in the reign of Edward the Third, by Thomas Earl of 
 Berkeley, out of the ranfom of the prifoners he took at the 
 battle of Poidiers, under the Black Prince. 
 
 At Thornbury are ftill to be feen the foundations of a mag- 
 nificent caftle, begun- but never finifhed, by Edward, Duke 
 
 or 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 295 
 
 of Bucks, who was beheaded in the reign of King Henry the 
 Eighth. 
 
 Qldhury, upon the river Severn, and near Thornbury, was a 
 Roman ftation ; and Antoninus fays, that here was the trajedlus 
 or paflage over the river Severn. In this place are two large 
 Roman camps. 
 
 At Alvejlon, not far from Oldbury, is a large round camp, 
 on the edge ofv a hill, from whence there is a pleafant profpedt 
 of the Severn, Near the camp is a large barrow, in which 
 were found feveral ftone coffins with bones in them. 
 
 At a place called Cajile Hill, near Alvefton, is another 
 camp ftill to be feen, being an oblong fquare with a fingle 
 ditch, 
 
 Aiift is fituated on a craggy cliff, on the bank of the Severn. 
 The ferry over the Severn here being found very inconvenienr, 
 there is another two miles lower, which is reckoned fafer. 
 Auft has a neat chapel, with a high tower at the weft end, 
 adorned with pinnacles, 
 
 Puckle Church, fix miles from Gloucefter, was the refidence 
 of feveral Saxon Kings, the remains of whofe buildings are 
 ftill vifible. The church is pretty large, and has feveral 
 good monuments. 
 
 Star fiones, like cockles and oyfters-; and ferpentine fiones 
 and fcallops, curioufly figured, are found about the Avon and 
 on the bills near Alderfey ; and at Leffingron, near Gloucef- 
 ter, are alfo found the ftar itones, fo called from their point re- 
 fembling the figure of a ftar. They are of a greyifh colour, 
 and move about for a coniiderable time when put into vinegar. 
 
 Near Pips Elm Turnpike* which is about four miles from 
 Cheltenham, is an oak, laid to be eighteen yards in circum- 
 ference. 
 
 In the hamlet of Barrow, in the parifli of Boddington, 
 about the fame diflance from Cheltenham, is a little fugar-loaf 
 hill, 'wnkh from its rdeaiblance to a tumulus, gave name to 
 \ the 
 
256 
 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 
 
 the hamlet* — A gentleman who lives in the parifh affirm v 
 that from the top of this hill, in a clear day, there is a dif- 
 tinfl view of thirty-fix panfh churches. 
 
 From Cleeve Hill, called alio Cleave Cloud, are vifible the* 
 remains of a large double entrenchment, called The Camps, 
 extending three hundred and fifty yards along thefummitof 
 the rock, in the form of a crefcent, and inacceffible on every \ 
 fide but the front. The views from this place, in a clear day, 
 are paft defcription ; the afcent from the foot of Cleeve Cloud 
 tS the top of the eminence being fix hundred and thirty feet 
 perpendicular, it is in the parifh of Bifliop's Cleeve, 
 
 Widccmbe is feven miles from Cheltenham, ?nd fix from j 
 Gloucester, From a vifta upon the hill, not a mile from the 
 houfe of Howe Hicks, Efq; which ftands in the centre of the 
 valley, is a fine bird's-eye view of the fubjacent vale and the 
 river Severn^ To the left are feen part of the Forefi of 
 Dean, and the conic mountain near Abergavenny, in Mon- 
 mouthfhire. In front the blue hills of Malvern, in Worcef-< 
 terfhire, with the Welch mountains, at 3 great diftance be- | 
 hind them : And to the right is a view of Tewkefbury, and of j 
 the city of Woreefter, near thirty miles diftant. — Howe ! 
 Hicks, Efq; the lord of the manor, is defcended from Sir 
 Baptift Hicks* 
 
 Birdlip and Crickley Hills, are nearly of the fame height, 
 the top of the firffc being about one thoufand three hun- 
 dred and fifty feet above the water of the Severn at Glou- 
 cefter, and on a level with a great part of the Cotefwold ! 
 country. 
 
 On the Cctejwold is a cuftomary meeting at Whitfuntide, I 
 vulgarly caHed an Jle, or Whhfun Ale, reforted to by nam- j 
 bers of young people. Two peifons are choien previous to 
 the meeting to be lord and lady of the Ale or Yule, who drefs 
 as fuitabiy as they can to thofe characters : a large barn or 
 other building is fitted up with feats, &c. for the lord's hall. , 
 Here they aflemble to dance and regale in the beft manner their 
 circumftances and the place will afford, and each man treats . 
 his girl with a ribbon or favour. The lord and lady, attended J 
 by tfceftewaid, Iword, purfe and mace bearer, with their fe* I 
 
 veral 
 
GLOUCESTERSHIRE* 
 
 297 
 
 veral badges of office, honour the hall with their prefence ; 
 they have likewife, in their fuit a page or train-bearer, and a 
 jefter, drefled in a party-coloured jacket. The lord's mufic, 
 confifting of a tabor and pipe, is employed to conduct the 
 dance, — Companies of morrice-dancers, attended by thejef- 
 ter and tabor and pipe, go about the country on Monday and 
 Tuefday in Whitfun week, and collect fums towards defray- 
 ing the expencesof the yule, — All the figures of the lord, &c. 
 of the yule, handfomely reprefented in baflb relievo, ftand ia 
 the north wall of the nave of Cirencefter church, which 
 vouches for the antiquity of the cuftom ; and as on any of 
 thefe occafions they erect a may-pole, it is a fign that it had 
 its rife in Druidifm. — The mace is made of filk, finely plaited 
 with ribbons on the top, and filled with fpices and perfumes 
 for fuch of the company to fmell to as defire it. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 2 P 
 
 HAMPSHIRE, 
 
HAMPSHIRE 
 
 ^"T^HIS county is bounded by Dorfetihire and Wikfliire on 
 A the weft, by Berkfhire on the north, by Surry and Suf- 
 fex on the eat% and by the Englifh Channel on the fouth. It 
 extends fixty-four miles from fouth to north, thirty-fix from 
 well toeaft, and is (exclufive of the Ifle of Wight) one hun- 
 dred and fifty miles in circumference. 
 
 The chief rivers of this county are the Avon, the Teft, and 
 the Itching, — The Avon rifes in Wiitfbire, and pafles 
 through Salifbury, where it begins to be navigable ; it enters 
 Harnpfhire at Charford, a village near Fordingbridge, and 
 runs fouthward by Ringwood, to Chriftchurch, near which 
 it receives the Srour, a confiderable river from Dorchefter, 
 and falls into the Englifh Channel.— The Teft, or Tefe, 
 called alio the Anton, rifes in the north part of Harnpfhire, 
 and running fombward, forms feveral iflands at Stockbridge, 
 and then palling by Romfey, it falls into an arm of the fea, 
 which reaches feveral miles up the country, and is called 
 Southampton Bay. — The Itching, called alfo the Aire, rifes 
 at Chilton Candover, a village near Alresford, and from 
 thence runsfouth-weft to Winchefterj and from that city di- 
 rectly fourh, till it falls into Southampton Bay, having been 
 made navigable from Winchefter to Southampton in the time 
 of William the Norman. — Hampfhire is abundantly fupplied 
 with fea and river fifh, 
 
 The air of this county is forthemoft part pure and healthy, 
 efpecialiy upon the downs, which crofs the country from eaft 
 to weft, dividing it nearly into equal parts ; and it is ob- 
 ferved, that the vapours in the low grounds that are next to 
 the fea, are not fo pernicious as in other counties. The hilly 
 parts are barren, and fit only for fhecp ; but the lower grounds 
 produce a great quantity of grain, particularly wheat and 
 barley. In the breed of horned cattle here there is nothing 
 particular $ but in fbeep and hogs this county excels moft. 
 The fbeep are remarkably fine, both in their ffcfli and 
 
HAMPSHIRE, 299 
 
 in their wool ; and as the hogs are never put into ftyes, but 
 fupplied with great plenty of acorns, the bacon is by far the 
 beft in England. Hampfhire is alfo particularly famous for 
 its honey, of which it is faid to produce the beft and the 
 worft in Britain; the honey collected upon the heath is 
 reckoned the worft, and that of the champaign country the 
 beft. Game of all kinds is plenty in Hampfhire; it has 
 more wood than any other county in England, efpecially oak, 
 and the greateft part of the Englifh navy is built and re- 
 paired with the timber of this county. 
 
 Hampfhire (exclufive of the Iile of Wight) is divided 
 into thirty-nine hundred?, and has one city and twenty mar- 
 ket-towns. It lies in the province of Canterbury and diocefs 
 of Winchefter, and contains two hundred and fifty-three 
 parifties. Its chief manufacture is kerfies and cloth, in which 
 a good foreign trade is carried on, from the many ports and 
 harbours with which it abounds. 
 
 CITY. 
 
 The city of WINCHESTER is fixty-feven miles from 
 London, and is fuppofed to have been built nine hundred years 
 before the Chriftian sera, and to have been the metrcpolis of 
 Belgse, and is therefore called Venta Belgarum^ both by Pto- 
 lemy and Antoninus. In it the Romans had looms to weave 
 cloth for the Emperors and their army, and King Athelftan 
 granted it the privilege of fix mints for the coinage of money. 
 Near the weft gate of the cathedral, there is ftill the remains 
 of an old wall, very thick, with feveral windows in it, built 
 of fmall flints, cemented as hard as (lone, and fuppofed to 
 have been a Roman work. — On a hill near this city, called 
 St. Catharine's Hiil 3 there are the traces of a camp ; and on 
 the fide of the weft gate, there was a caftle, where the Weft 
 Saxon Kings are fuppofed to have kept their court: in the 
 caftie hall, which is Supported by marble pillars, is now the 
 town hall, in which a round table is ftill preferved, called King 
 Arthur's Round Table : it confifts of one piece of wood, and is 
 faid to be above one thoufand two hundred years old ; it has 
 fome illegible Saxon chara&ers upon it, which are faid to be 
 the names of twenty-four Knights with whom King Arthur 
 ufed to caroufe, and who were called Knights of the Round 
 Table. 
 
 2 P 2 Winchefter 
 
3 oo HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 Winchefter is governed, according to a charter of Queen 
 Elizabe h, by a mayor, a high fteward, a recorder, an unli- 
 mited number of aldermen, out of whom are chofen fix juf- 
 tices, two coroners, two bailiffs, twenty-four common-coun- 
 cilmen, a town-clerk* four conftables, and four ferjeants at 
 mace. It is about a mile and half in compafs, and almoft 
 Surrounded with a wall built of flint, having fix gates in it, with 
 fuburbs leading to each from the adjacent country. The build- 
 ings in general are rrean, but the ftreets are broad and clean ; 
 there is alfo a great deal of void ground within the walls, 
 fome part of which is laid into gardens, that are fupplied upon 
 occafion with water from little canals on each fide of the 
 High-ftreet. In this ftreet is a guildhall, which was rebuilt 
 fome years ago, and the ftatue of Queen Anne fet up in the 
 front of it. In this hall are held two courts of record, on 
 every Friday and Saturday. At the eaft gate of this city 
 there is an hofpital, dedicated to St. John, in the wall of 
 which hofpital the mayor and bailiffs give their public enter- 
 tainment At one end is the picture of King Charles the 
 Second, by Sir Peter Lely ; and at the other a large table of 
 all the bailiffs and mayors of Winchefter from the year 1184; 
 and here are alfo tables of benefactions to this city, during 
 the Saxon reigns, and from Henry the Second to Charles the 
 Second. On the weft fide of this city, King Charles the 
 Second fet Sir Chriftopher Wren upon building a royal pa- 
 lace, the fituation being extremely fine forfuch a purpofe. 
 The building was almoft completed, but the King dying be- 
 fore it was fimfhed, it was neglected, fo that now nothing re- 
 mains of it but the (hell. The fouth fide of this palace mea- 
 sures two hundred and fixtcen feet, and the weft front three 
 hundred and twenty-fix. 
 
 Theepifcopal palace in this city was built by Bifhop Blois, 
 in the time of King Stephen. It was almoft furrounded by 
 the river Itching, and was adorned and fortified with feveral 
 turrets. It was demolimed by the Parliament army in the 
 reign of King Charles the Firft, but was rebuilt by Bifhop 
 Morley in the reign of Charles the Second, and fitted up by 
 Dr. Trelawney, the Succeeding Bifhop, The fee of Win- 
 chefter is one of the richeft in the kingdom, and was firft 
 founded by Kinegulfe, a King of the Mercians, whofe fon 
 tranflated the fee of Dorchefter hither in 603 5 and although 
 the diccefe of Sherborne was taken out of this fee by King 
 
1 
 
HAMPS HIRE. 301 
 
 Ina,yet it became afterwards fo rich, that when Edward the 
 Third would have preferred its Bifhop, Edendon, his favourite, 
 to the fee of Canterbury, he refufed it, faying, that " though 
 Canterbury was the higheft rack, Wincheirer was the beft 
 manger." There are fome privileges and immunities ap~ 
 pendant to this fee, obtained by William of Wickham, when 
 he was Bifhop of it in the reiom of Edward the Third, fuch 
 that the Bifhops of VVinchefter fhould be prelates of the 
 moft noble order of the Garter, and Chancellors to the Arch* 
 bifhops of Canterbury, 
 
 Winchefter had formerly no lefs than thirty-two parifh 
 churches, of which, at prefenr, fix only remain. The cathe* 
 dral is a large and venerable fabnc, begun by Bifhop W-alke- 
 lin about 1070, and finifhed by William of Wickharn, of 
 whcm there is a ftatue in a nich over the great window, oppo- 
 site the choir. Infttad of a fteeple or fpire, this church has 
 only a fmall tower, with a flat covering, as if the top of it 
 had fallen away, and it had been covered .in hafte to keep out 
 the rain. The length of this cathedral from eaft to well is 
 five hundred and f&> ty five feet, including a chapel at the eaft 
 end, called Our Lady s Chapel, which i* fifty-four feet long ; 
 and the breadth of the body and crofs ifles eighty-feven feet; 
 the choir is one hundred and thirty-fix feet long, and forty 
 broad ; the length of the great crofs ifle is about one hundred 
 and eighty-fix feet, and' the tower in the middle is one hundred 
 and fifty feet high ; the nave, or weftern body of the church, 
 is above three hundred feec long, and is reckoned the moft 
 fpacious in England. The roof of the choir is adorned with, 
 the coats of arms of the Saxon and Norman Kings, the gift 
 cf Bifhop Fox. The front of this church was erected in the 
 time of the Saxons; it is of black marble, and of a fquare 
 figure, and is fupported by a plain ftone pedeftal ; the fides 
 are ornamented with fculptures in haffb relievo, reprefenting 
 the miracles of fome faint belonging to ihis church. The 
 afcent to the choir is by eight fteps, at the top of which are 
 two copper ftatues finely eaft, one of James the Firft on the 
 right hand, and the other of Charles the Firft on the left. 
 The Bifhop's throne is the gift of Bu'hop Trelawney ; the 
 pediment of it is adorned with a mitre; and the arms of the 
 lee are fupporced by columns of the Corinthian order. The 
 flails of the Deans and Prebendaries are adorned with gilt 
 fpire^work, before which (lands an eagle with its wings ex- 
 panded, 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 paneled, on a brafs pedeftal. The sfcent of the altar is of 
 marble fleps ^ and the pavement is very curious, being inlaid 
 with marble of different colours, and forming a variety of 
 figures. The altar-piece, which is by much the nobleft in 
 England, is the gift of Bifhop Morley ; it confifts of a rofcy 
 canopy of wood work, proje&ing over the communion table 
 like a curtain, wirh gilt feftoons hanging down from it, and 
 other ornaments. The communion rail is neat, and on each 
 fide of the altar are ftone vafes, with golden flames iffuing 
 out to the roof of the church. The great eaft window is 
 remarkable for the fine paintings upon the glafs, reprefenting 
 feveral faints and biftops of this church ; it is ftill entire, fo 
 alfo is the weft window, which is of painted glafs, though in- 
 ferior to the other. In this cathedral feveral of our Saxon 
 Kings were buried, whofe bones were collected by Biftlop Fox, 
 and put into fix gilded coffins, which he placed upon a wall 
 on the fouth fide of the choir. Here alfolies the marble cof- 
 fin of William Rufus, which being opened by the foldiers in 
 the civil wars under Charles the Firft 5 they found on his 
 thumb a gold ring, adorned with a rub/. Bifhop Langtortt 
 built a neat chapel on the fouth fide of Our Lady's Chapel, 
 in this cathedral, in the middle of which he lies interred, 
 under a ftately marble tomb ; and BiGiop Fox, who lies buried 
 cn the fouth fide of the high altar, has a fine monument erec- 
 ted over him. Here are feveral other pompous monuments, 
 an'Ong which is that of William of Wick ham, which is of 
 white marble richly guilt; it was erecled by himfelf about 
 thirteen years before his death, in the body of the church, and 
 is adorned wjth the enfigns of the order of the Garter, of 
 which he was the firft prelate, joined with hisepifcopal robes, 
 all painted in their proper colours. Here is alfo a very fine 
 monument over the Earl of Portland, who was Lord High 
 Treafurer of England in the reign of Charles the Firft. This 
 monument confifts of a ftatue of the &arl, in copper, at full 
 length, armed, with his head raifed on three cufhionsof the 
 fame metal. On the fouth fide of the nave, is a marble ftatue 
 of Sir John Clobery, who, when he was only a private cen- 
 tinel, had a good eftate given him, and was raifed to the dig- 
 nity of Knighthood, by Charles the Second, for his fidelity 
 when he was employed as a meflenger between General Monk 
 and the King's friends, relative to the Reftoration. The 
 clergy of this city have pleafant and elegant lodgings in the 
 
 clofe 
 
HAMPSHIRE 
 
 clofe belonging to this cathedral ; the Deanery in particular 
 is a very handfome building with large gardens, which arc 
 very pleafant, but are fubj^ci to he overflowed by the river 
 which runs through the middle of them. 
 
 The great Roman highway leads from this city to Alton, 
 and thence, as it is fuppofed, to London* The river Itching 
 was made navigable for barges from this city to Southampton 
 in the reign of William the Norman : and the city and neigh- 
 bourhood abounds with people of fortune, though it has nei- 
 ther trade nor manufacture that deferves notice. 
 
 Near the Bifhop's palace is the college of St. Mary, com- 
 monly called Winchejier College 9 the foundation of which was 
 laid in 1387, by William of Wickharn, and it was finifaed 
 in 1393. By his charter of foundation he appointed a cuilos 
 or warden, feventy fcholars, ftudents in grammar, ten perpe« 
 tual chaplains, now called fellows, three other chaplains, 
 three clerks, a fchoolmafter, an ufher, an organift, and fixteer* 
 choiifters, who, with their tenants, were freed for ever from 
 all taxes. The allowance to the wardens, matters, and fel- 
 lows, is very confiderable, and they have handfome apart- 
 ments adjoining the college. The college confifts of two 
 Jarge courts, in which are the fchool, a chapel, and lodgings 
 for the mafter and fcholars ; and beyond the courts there is a 
 large cloifter, with fome ground enclofed for the fcholars to 
 play in. Upon the glafs of one of the chapel windows there 
 are excellent paintings, and in the middle of the cioifter is a 
 library 3 the building is of flone, and well contrived to pre- 
 vent any accident by fire. Over the door of the fchool is an 
 excellent ftatue of the founder, made by Mr. Gibber. Many 
 great and learned men have been educated at this fchool, 
 where, after a certain time, the fcholars have exhibitions, if 
 they are inclined to ftudy in the New College at Oxford, 
 founded by the fame benefactor. 
 
 There is alfo here a magnificent hofpital, called The Hos- 
 pital of the Holy Crofs. The church of this hufpital is in 
 form of a crofs, and has a large fquare tower. By the confti- 
 tution of the founder, every traveller that knocks at the door 
 of this houfe in his way, may claim the relief cf a manchet 
 of white bread and a cup of beer, of which a good quantity 
 is fet apart daily, to be given away, and what is left dittnbuted 
 to other poor, but none of it is kept to the next day. The 
 revenues of this hofpital were to be appropriated Co the main- 
 tenance 
 
3 o + HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 tenance of a mafter and thirty penfioners, called fellows or 
 brothers ; for thefe handfome apartments were allotted, but 
 the number is how reduced to fourteen, though the mafter has 
 an appointment of eight hundred pounds a year. The pen- 
 lioners wear black gowns, go twice a day to prayers, and have 
 two hot meals a day, except in Lent, when they have bread, 
 butter, cheefe, and beer, and twelve (hillings in money, to buy 
 what other provifions they chufe. Thefe penfioners ufed for- 
 merly to be decayed gentlemen, but of late they are decayed 
 tradefmen, put in at the pleafure of the mafter. 
 
 An infirmary was lately eftabliflied in this town by volun- 
 tary fubfcription procured chiefly by the Rev. Dr. Alured 
 Clarke: and in the north quarter of it, a part of an old mo- 
 naftery is (till {landing, now called Hide Houfe, where fame 
 Roman Catholics rtfide. and have a chapel. Here are alfo 
 three charity fchools, two of them fupported by a fubfcrip- 
 tion of two hundred and twenty pounds a year, of which 
 one is for fifty boys, and the other for thirty girls ; the 
 third, which is fupported by the bounty of a fingleper- 
 ibn, is for teaching two hundred and fifty boys. In the 
 cathedral church-yard there is a college erecled and endowed 
 by Bifhop Morley, in 1672* for ten widows of clergymen. 
 The plains and downs about this city, which continue with 
 very few interferons of rivers or vallies for above fifty 
 miles, render it very pleafant to thofe who love an open fitu- 
 ation and extenfive profpects. 
 
 MARKET-TOWNS. 
 
 Portsmouth derives its name from its fituation at the port 
 or mouth of a creek that runs up a part of the coaft, which 
 at high water is furrounded by the fea, and is therefore called 
 Portjea Ijiand. 1 h\> ifland is a flat fertile country, about fix- 
 teen miles in circumference, joined to the main land by a 
 ftone-bridge of one arch, called Ports-Bridge, three miles 
 and a half from Portsmouth, where there is a fmall garrifon ; 
 the land in this ifland is efteemed as good as any in th e king- 
 dom ; there are feveial very good farms on it, confifting 
 chiefly of arable land, fome meadow and pafture ; thefe hard- 
 ly ever fail of yielding very plentiful crops. 
 
 Portfmouth 
 
H AMPS H I R E. 305 
 
 Portfrnouth is a handfome borough-town, feveniy-three 
 miles from London, confifting of four principal ftreets. 
 Thefe are crofted at different diftances by feveral others, all 
 in general fpaciouS, airy, and well difpofed* Jt is governed 
 by a mayor, recorder, twelve aldermen, a town-clerk, and 
 burgeffes without limitation. It was firft incorporated by 
 King Richard the Firft, on the 2d of May, 1194, in tha 
 fifth year of his reign ; who granted a fair or mart for fifteen 
 days, to begin on St. Petei's day 3 the 29th of June; a 
 weekly.marketonThurfday ; and other immunities ; but by 
 fhe alteration of the ftile, the fair now begins on the 10th 
 of July. Two more market days have been fince added, 
 viz* Tuefday and Saturday ; the latter being now by much 
 the largeft. The corporation have had many charters fince, 
 from fucceeding Kings, confirming their privileges ; the laft 
 of which was given by Charles the Firft, and this they now 
 enjoy; he ajfo granted them feveral additional privileges* 
 There is a very neat town-hall here, which ftands in the 
 middle of the High-ftreet, where is held a court of record 
 every Tuefday, (except at Chriftrnas, Eafter, and Whitfun- 
 tide,) in which any perfon may be held to biil for a debt 
 not under forty (hillings. There are two feilions of the peace 
 held here in the year, viz. within a month after Eafter; and 
 Michaelmas, 
 
 This borough fends two members to parliament, and hath 
 done fo ever fince 1298, the twenty-fixth year or the reign 
 of King Edward the Firft. 
 
 In the reign of King Richard the Second, when that 
 Prince was on very bad terms with his fubjedfo, rhe French 
 took the opportunity of landing here, and burnt the town, 
 after plundering the inhabitants of their mod valuable ef- 
 fects. A few years after they made a fecond attempt to land, 
 but the town being rebuilt, the inhabitants fitted out a fleer, 
 gave them battle, and tcok all their fhips, after a very defpe- 
 rate engagement, in which only nine or the enemy efcaped 
 with life, who having gained the fhore in a boat, were im- 
 mediately taken prifoners. — The Englilh, elated with fuc- 
 cefs, attacked the French on their own coaft, Jailed up the 
 river Seine, burnt and funk many of tne enemy's fhips, and 
 returned to England with a great and rich booty of wines 
 and other articles of merchandife. % 
 
 Vol, L 2Q, Porifmouth 
 
3c6 HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 Portfmouth may be called the key of England, and is its 
 moft regular fortification. It was begun by Edward the 
 Fourth, and augmented by Henry the Seventh and Henry the 
 Eighth ; and Queen Elizabeth was at fa great an expence in 
 improving the works here, that nothing was thought wanting 
 to compleat them $ but Charles the Second added very much 
 to their ftrength, extend, and magnificence, and made this one 
 of the principal harbours in the kingdom for laying up the 
 royal navy: he furnifhed it with wet and dry docks, ftore- 
 houfes, rope-yards, and all materials for building, repairing, 
 rigging, arming, viflualling, and compleatly fitting to fea, 
 fhips of war of all rates; and ever fince the fucceeding Kings 
 have been making additions to the ftrength and beauty of the 
 garrifon, there being ^n annual allowance from government 
 for keeping it in repair. At this place all our fleets of force, 
 and all fquadrons appointed as convoys to our trade, home- 
 ward or outward bound, confiantly rendezvous, and a thou- 
 fand fail may ride here in perfedl fecurity. The mouth of 
 this harbour, which is fcarcely fo broad as the river Thames 
 is at Weftnriinfter, is upon the Portfmouth fide defended by a 
 caftle built by Henry the Eighth, and fituated about a mile 
 and a half fouth of the rown, This caftle is fortified by a 
 gicd counterfcarp, and double moat, with ravelins, and dou- 
 ble palifades, befides advanced works to cover the place from 
 any approach, where it may be practicable: but part of the 
 fort was accidentally blown up, and greatly damaged, in Au- 
 guft 1759* The mouth of the harbour is, on the Gofport 
 fide, tkknded by four fma!] fort?, and a platform of above 
 twenty great gtfins, level with the water. 
 
 The town of Portfmouth is fortified on the land fide by 
 works raifed of Jate years, about the docks and yards $ and 
 feme years ago government bought more ground for addi- 
 tional works. Here are dwelling houfes, with ample accom- 
 modations for a commiffioner of the navy, and all the fubordi- 
 pate officers and mailer workmen, neceffary for the conftant 
 fervice of the navy in this port day and night 5 and the contents 
 of the yards and ftore-houfes are laid up in inch order that the 
 workmen can readily find any implement even in the dark. 
 The quantities of military and naval ftores of all kinds Mat 
 are laid up here are immenie. The rope-houfe is near a quar- 
 ter of a mile long, and fome of the cabies fo large that an nun- 
 dred men ate required to work upon them at a time 5 and shis 
 
 labour 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 307 
 
 labour, though divided among fo many, is notwithflanding fo 
 violent that the men can work at it only four hours in a day. 
 The number of men continually employed in the yard is never 
 lefs than one thoufand. The docks and yards rtfemble a dif- 
 tinft town, and are a kind of marine corporation within them- 
 felves ; they are as convenient as can be imagined, and capa- 
 ble of docking twenty-five or thirty fhips in a fortnight • and 
 in the dock-yard there is a royal academy. On July 3, 1760, 
 a fire broke out in the dock-yard, which confumed the rope- 
 houfe, the fpinning-houfe, the hemp-houfe, and one of the 
 ftore. houfes, with fundry ftores, to the value of more than 
 fifty thoufand pounds. — The rope-houfe was fet on fire, and 
 burnt down a feconcl time, on the 7th of December, 1776, by 
 the celebrated James Hill, commonly known by the name of 
 John the Painter, and twenty ton weight of hemp, value two 
 hundred pounds j ten cable?, of one hundred fathom length, 
 and three inches in circumference, value eighty pounds • and 
 fix ton weighc of cordage, value two hundred pounds, de« 
 ftroyed. Of this offence John the Painter was afterwards con- 
 victed, and hung in chains. 
 
 Portfmouth ftands on a gradual defcent to the fea ; and fince 
 the new pavement has been finifhed, may be efteemed one of 
 the moft pleafant, neat, and healthy towns in the kingdom ; 
 and there have been as many inftances of longevity here as in 
 moft places. This pavement took place by act of parliament 
 in 1768, was finifhed in 1773? and is as compleat a work of 
 the kind as any in the kingdom. The expence was defrayed 
 by the proprietors of the houfes and land, and amounted to 
 eight thoufand eight hundred and eighty-fix pounds eight 
 fhillings. The charges of repairs are paid by the tenants, 
 and are collected in the fame manner as the poor rate?, by an 
 afieffment of three* pence in the pound.. 
 
 r l hough the town is very old there are many genteel modern 
 buildings in it : many of the houfes are appropriated to the 
 ufe of lodgings, on account of the great refort here in the 
 fummer feafon. The markets are plentifully fupplied with good 
 butcher's meat, poultry of all forts, fi(h, eggs, butter, bacon, 
 &c. befides which they are remarkable for large quantities of 
 the bed vegetables of every kind. Though proviiions are 
 much advanced in their price within thefe few years, they are 
 as reafonable here, if not more fc, than in any other place at 
 an equal diftance from the capital. There are , three elegant 
 
 2 Q.2 inns 
 
30S HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 inns here, vifc.tbe George, Fountain, and Kind's Arms; and 
 a very good coffee- hou A- , on the Grand Parade, called the 
 Crown. 
 
 The Grand Parade is at the lower end of the High-ftreet ; 
 it is very fp'acious ; two regiments of foldiers may be reviewed 
 on it with eafe. On one fide ftands the main guard-houfe to 
 the garrifon. From this you go by an eafy afcent to the plat- 
 form, the principal faluting battery, from which there js an 
 amazing fine profpecf. of Spifhead and the Ifle of Wight. 
 
 The ramparts are a beautiful elevated terrace walk, of a 
 mile and a quarter round, edged with elm-trees, kept in a moft 
 regular order. From this eminence the unbounded profpecT: 
 of the fea, con crafted with the landfcape which the neighbour- 
 ing country afford?, forms one of the moft finking variegated 
 fcenes imaginable. Indeed it has always been an objeel of 
 the higheft admiration to Grangers, and we may venture to 
 fay ever will be fo, as long as the beauties of nature and art 
 continue to merit our attention. 
 
 At the upper end of the Grand Parade francs a fine old 
 building, formerly a monaftery called God's Houfe ; it was 
 built by William of Wiekham, whofe brother, in 1367, was 
 prior of it. At the di Ablution of religious houfes by Henry the 
 Eight , it was converted into a d welling-houfe for the Captain 
 or Governor of the garrifon, fince which great alterations and 
 modern additions have been made to it. Adjoining to this 
 houfe is a handfome fpadous chape!, for the wfeof the officers 
 and foldiers belonging to the garrifon* There was aifo an 
 hofpkal named St, Nicholas, by the chapel gate, built for the 
 reception of a -certain number of old men, but time has de- 
 ftroyed this piece of antiquity* That part of the parade 
 fronting the Governor's houfe was formerly a burying ground 
 to the monaftery. About forty-fix years ago many human fculls 
 and bones were dug cut of this ground, in making a founda- 
 tion for a part of the works , 
 
 When the civil wars broke out between Charles the Firft 
 and his parliament, this town and fort was feized by the latter 
 as a piace of great importance ; but it was one of the firft 
 that declared for Charles the Second when they heard of 
 Monk's reftoring him to the crown. 
 
 The church, which ftands nearly in the centre of the town, 
 Was finiflied in the year 1-693, anc * the chancel was at that time 
 altered and 'beautified. In this chancel, behind the commu- 
 nion 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 nlon table, is a large elegant marble monument, erected to the 
 memory of the Dukt* of Buckingham, who, in the reign of 
 Charks the FirfT, in the year 1628, wasftabbed in the High* 
 itreet, by Felton, a Lieutenant, belonging to one of the regi- 
 ments. The houfe where the fact was committed is now 
 {landing. Felton frankly confelTed the murder asfoonabe 
 had perpetrated ir, faying, he did it to ferve the caufe of God 
 and his country. The King advifed with the Judges about 
 torturing him, but none cf them would confent to it ; fo that 
 he was tried and condemned in the ufual way, and executed 
 at Tyburn ; his body afterwards being fent to Port/mouth, 
 where it was hanged in chains, without the town. A mark 
 now remains to (hew where the gibbet ft >od. 
 
 The prefent tower and cupola *vere built ieveral years after 
 the church : over this cupola is a lanthorn, containing one 
 bell, formerly employed to give notice how many ihios ap- 
 peared in the offing. A watch man wa& k~pt in this lanthora 
 for the above purpofe $ but it is now only ufed in cafes of fire. 
 Above this lanthorn, inftead of a weather-cock, is a fhip 
 completely rigged, about lix feel in length rr >m ftem to (tern : 
 her flags rraverhng extremely well, exhibit a very pleailng 
 appearance, 
 
 The height of the tow< r is one hundred and twenty feet. 
 There is a very m jik ai ring or eight bellsj five of which were 
 given by Prince G -rge of Denmark, who at the requeft of 
 Sir George Rook, had them ' removed from an ol J pharos or 
 Watch-tower, wahm ihe fortification of Dover caitie ^ but 
 thefe afterwards were recall, aa J three more ad Jed by the town. 
 There is alfo a fetof chimes, tne gift of tVli\ William Bran- 
 don, in 1703* 
 
 There are four good barracks ; two for the invalid regi- 
 ment in garrifon, a third tor the companies of artillery who 
 do duty here, and tne fourch for the marines of this divifion, 
 that they may be in readme^ xo embark on board the fhips as 
 they are wanted. Tne marine barracks were formerly the 
 King's cooperage - 9 but a? the fituation of Gofport was found 
 more eligi Die, tne coverage was removed thither* 
 
 The victualling oirice ,5 a Jar^e office in King's-ftreec, with 
 a handfome houie annexed for tne agent victualler, the princi* 
 pal officer belonging to it. Here beef and pork are Slaugh- 
 tered and falted, bifcuit baked, and every other neceffary pro* 
 yiiion itored for the krvice of the navy. 
 
3io HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 The armoury, though much inferior to that of the Tower, 
 is by no means unworthy of notice. It is an old building 
 near St, Mary's-ftreet, containing arms for five thoufand men, 
 which are kept in the moft exacT: order. 
 
 There is here a grammar fchooi, under the patronage of the 
 Dean and Chapter of Ch rift- churchy Oxford, with a genteel 
 fcoufe for the refidence of the principal matter. It was 
 founded by the late Dr. Smith, phyfician of this place, In 
 this fchool are taught the learned languages, and the mathe- 
 matics in all its branches, navigation, &c. for which laft pur- 
 pofe a particular mafter has been lately appointed. 
 
 There is an alms-houfe in this town for eight poor widows, 
 endowed by a Mr* Burgefs. 
 
 At the upper end of the High-flreet, is a neat and regular 
 theatre, at which a company of comedians from the houfes 
 in London generally play during the fummer feafon. In the 
 winter it is converted into an affembly-room, as the Opera- 
 houfe in the Haymarket, London, The aflfembly is fup- 
 ported by fubfcription. 
 
 In 1754, was built by fubfcription of the inhabitants a large 
 and commodious bathing-houfe, containing four fine baths, 
 of different depths of water, two of them large enough to 
 fwim in. It is fituated near the mouth of the harbour, clofe 
 to the run of the tide, and every 'flood it is plentifully fuppHed 
 with water. In it are two good dreffing* rooms, one for the 
 gentlemen, and one for the ladies, with every other necefi'ary 
 accommodation, — For thofe who prefer it, there is a fafe place 
 for open bathing along the South Sea Beach, where the fea 
 covers a fine gravelly bottom, to the length of half a mile. 
 
 Southampton is the county-town, and was formerly 
 called Hantori) from its fituation upon a bay, anciently called 
 Trifanton, or The Bay of dnton^ the old name of the river 
 Teft. Afterwards it took the name of South Hanton^ or 
 Hampton^ to diftinguifh it from Hampton, Northampton, and 
 other towns of that name t It ftands between the rivers Teft 
 and Itching, at thediftance of feventy-eight miles from Lon- 
 don : both thefe rivers are navigable for fome way up the 
 country, from whence, efpecially from the New Foreft, vaft 
 quantities of timber are brought down, which lie on the ihore 
 here fometimes for two miles in length, and are fetched by 
 the {hip- builders at Portfmouth-dock, few fhips being now 
 
 built 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 built at Southampton. This town was incorporated by 
 Henry the Second and Kjno; John, and made a county of 
 itfelf bv Henry the Sixth, which renders it independent of ths 
 Lord Lieutenant of the (hire. According to its 1 aft charter, 
 which was granted by Charles theFirfl:, the coloration con- 
 fin 1 * of a mayor, nine juftices, a flieriff, two bailiffs, twenty- 
 four common councihnen, and as many burgeffes, The 
 mayor is admiral of the liberties from South Sea Caftle to 
 another called Hurft Ca'ule, which is fituated oa that neck of 
 land, which running fartheft into the fea, makes the fliortefl: 
 paflage to the Ifle of Wight, the r'iftance not being above 
 two miles. 
 
 This town was greatly harrafled by the Danes, who 
 took it in 980, and in the reign of Edward the Third it 
 was plundered and burnt to the ground by the French ; 
 but it was foon after rebuilt in a more convenient fituation, 
 and fortified with double ditches and ftrong walls, with battle- 
 ments and watch tower?. As it fa on became populous, 
 Richard the Second built a ftrong caftle, on a high mount, for 
 the defence of the harbour. It is faid that by forne privileges 
 anciently granted to this place, all the Canary wine brought 
 to England was obliged to be firft landed her?, which brought 
 great wealth to the inhabitants ; but the merchants of Lon* 
 don buffering greatly by this delay, gave money to the corpo- 
 ration as an equivalent for that privilege, and had their wines 
 brought diredtly to London. 
 
 Southampton is at prefent furrounded by a wall built of 
 very hard ftone, refembling thofe little white (hells, like honey- 
 combs, that grow on the back of oyfters. Thefe ftones feem 
 to have been gathered near the beach of the fea, which en com- 
 pares almoft one half of the town 3 and fo deep that (hips of 
 five hundred tons burthen have frequently been built here* 
 To defend this part of the town from the force of the waves,a 
 ftrong bank is built of what is called SeaOre^ a fubftance com- 
 pel ed of a long and {lender, but ftrong filaments, fomewhat re- 
 fembling undreffed hemp. This bank is faid to be a better de- 
 fence than a wall of {tone, or even a natural clift, but this is 
 not very credible. The principal ftreet is one of the broadeft 
 in England, and near three quarters of a mile long, well paved 
 on each fide, and ending in a very fine quay. Near the quay 
 is a fort with fome guns on it, which was erected by Henry 
 the Eighth in 154a. This town has a public hall, in which 
 
 the 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 the affizes are ufually kept <, but its chief ornaments are its 
 churches, of which there are five, befides a Frenrh church. 
 Here is an bofpital, called God's Houfe^ and a free-fchool, 
 founded by Edward the Sixth; a charity-fchool was alfb 
 opened in 1613, and a fubfeription compleated of about eighty 
 pounds a year, for the education of thirty boys. 
 
 There were formerly many merchants here, and there are 
 Hill feme, who carry on the Port and French wine trade, but 
 the principal dealings are with Greenland and Jerfey ; and 
 there are others who trade to Newfoundland for fifh* 
 
 About the year 1768* on account of the great refort of the 
 nobility and gentry to Southampton* and a want of proper ac- 
 commodations in the town, a plan was formed for erecting 
 feveral houfes in its vicinity. A fpot of ground was accord- 
 ingly fele&ed, about a quarter of a mile on the London fide 
 of the town, containing twenty-two acres of a fine gravelly 
 foil, agreeably elevated, and commanding a moft delightful 
 profpedt of the Southampton water as far as Calfhot Caftle, 
 and enchanting views of the New Fcreft* the town of South- 
 ampton, the lfle of Wight, and many gentlemen's feats* A 
 iiot thus decorated by nature required a plan equally novel 
 and refpc&abta ; for which purpofe the ingenious architect 
 Mr. Lerou*, ef Great Ruflel-ftreef, London, devifed a Poly- 
 gon of twelve fcdts, with a houfe in the centre of each, having 
 the proper offices detached and kept low, the principal fronts 
 being contrived co appear outwards, and the gardens to con- 
 verge towards the centre, where a baion of water was placed 
 for the ufeof thei'everal houfes. 
 
 The exterior part of the Polygon is encircled by a walk in- 
 cloftd witn polls and chaim, and lamps ; adjoining to which 
 is a public road of h.slf a mile in extent ; and beyond the whole, 
 and before the refpe.ftive buildings, lies the grafs land belong- 
 ing to each houfe, 
 
 in confequence of this judicious difpofiiion, every houfe 
 partak* s of the fame delightful view?, tl rough the large fpaces 
 left between the dfterom building?, by reverfing the belt rooms 
 in the levcrai plans. i\< me of the houfes are calculated to be 
 divided into two, with cheir entrances in the baf.-ment flory 
 from the court-yard, lid ':ways, 
 
 afc a part of this g?eai* plan, there was alfo at the extremity 
 cf the Polygon, nnd in (perfect unifon with it, a capital build- 
 ing, with two deuched vying?, and coloiiades^ trie centre be- 
 ing 
 
HAMPSHIRE * 313 
 
 ing applied as a capital tavern, with aflembly-room?, card- 
 rooms, coffee-rooms, &c. and each wing (four ftories high) 
 being confidered as hotels for the accommodation of the no- 
 bility and gentry, nine rooms on each ftory, forming a com- 
 pleat fuiteforthe mod rcfpe£kble family. 
 
 The whole may, in faft, be confidered as a fplendid affem- 
 blage of noblemen's and gentlemen's feats. 
 
 Stockeridge is fituated on the road to Weymouth, and 
 other parts of the weft, at the diftanceof fixty-feven mi'es 
 from London, and is a borough by prescription, governed by a 
 baliff, con (table, and fcrjeants, The bailiff, who is gene* 
 rally an innkeeper, is the returning officer at elections for par- 
 liament ; and the innkeeper, that he may have an opportunity 
 of receiving bribes upon thefe occafions, without incurring 
 the penalty, has frequently procured one of his own oftlers to 
 be elected bailiff, and has himfelf carried the mace before him. 
 SirRichard Steele, who reprefented this borough in parliament 
 in the reign of Queen Anne, carried his election againft a 
 powerful oppofition, by fticking a large apple full of guineas, 
 and declaring that it fliould be the prize of that man whofe 
 wife fliould be firft brought to bed after that day nine months ; 
 this merry offer procured him the intereft of all the ladies, 
 who, it is foid, commemorate Sir Richard's bounty to this 
 day ; and once made a vigorous effort to procure a {landing 
 order of the corporation, that no man fhould ever be received 
 a candidate who did not offer himfelf upon the fame terms. 
 This town in general is but a mean place, though there are 
 feme good inns in it, and the beft wheelwrights and carpen- 
 ters in the county. 
 
 Andover derives its . name from its fituation on a fmall 
 river called the dnde. It Is fixty-five miles from London, 
 and is faid to have its firft charter frcm King John ; it was 
 Jail incorporated by Queen Elizabeth, and is governed by a 
 bailiff, a fteward, a recorder, two juftices, and twenty-two 
 capital burgeffes, who annually chyle the bailiff, and the bai* 
 liff appoints two ferjeants at mace to attend him. This town 
 is large, handfome, and populous, and is healthfully and plea- 
 fantly fituated cn the edge of the downs on the great road 
 from London to Wiltfliire. Here is an alms-houle for the 
 maintenance of fix poor men ; here is alfaa free-fchool, which 
 Vol, I. 2 R was 
 
3*4 HAMPSHIRE* 
 
 was founded in 1569, and a charity-fchoo! for thirty boys. In 
 this town are made great quantities of malt, but its chief ma- 
 uufa&ure is fhailcons. 
 
 Gospcrt Is fituated over-againft Portfmouth, on the other 
 fide, at the entrance of Portfmouth harbour, and is feventy- 
 eight miles from London. This town, though on a different 
 
 fide of the harbour, and in a different parilh, often goes by the 
 name of Portfmouth, and boats are continually paffing from 
 one to the other. Gofport is a large town,, and has a great 
 trade ; it is chiefly inhabited by the failors and their wives, 
 and the warrant officers 5 and travellers generally chufe to 
 lodge here, on account that every thing is confiderably cheaper 
 and more convenient than in Portfmouth. Here is a noble 
 hofpital for the cure of the fick and wounded failors in the 
 fervice of the navy, and here aifo is a free-fchool. 
 
 Basingstoke is forty-fix miles from London, and ftand s 
 in the road to -Andover. It is a large populous town, and is 
 governed by a mayor, a recorder, feven aldermen, feven capital 
 burgefie?, with other officers. Befides the church, here are 
 the ruins of a neat chapel, built by William, the firfii Lord 
 Sandys, in the reign of Henry the Eighth, and near it a free- 
 fchool ; and befides thefe here are three charity- fchools, in 
 one of which twelve boys are educated and maintained by the 
 Skinner's Company in London. This town has a great mar- 
 ket for all forts of corn, efpecially barley, and a confiderable 
 trade in malt; the chief manufacture is druggets and fhal- 
 Icons. The adjacent country, though furrounded with woods, 
 is rich in pafture, and fprinkled with fine houfes, and a brook 
 runs by the town which has plenty of trout. 
 
 Near Bafingftoke there was formerly a feat of John Mar- 
 quis of Winchefter, called Bajing Houfe y which the Marquis 
 in the great civil war turned into a fortrefs for the King, and 
 having a refolute band of foldiers under him, held it a iong 
 time, to the great annoyance of the parliament army j but 
 after having refilled many attacks, Cromwell at laft took it 
 by ftorm, and being provoked by the Marquis's zeal, and the 
 cbftinacy of his defence, he put many of thegarrifon to the 
 f word, and burnt the houfe to she ground. It was a building 
 rather fit for a prince than a fubject ; and among other fur- 
 niture that was dcftroyed with ar, there was or*e bed worth 
 orie thoufaiid tour hundred pounds j and the plunder was fo 
 
 confiderable, 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 confiderable, that a private foldier got three hundred pounds 
 for his own (hare. 
 
 Whitchurch is pleafantly fltuated in the great weftern 
 road through Andover, on the fkirts of a foreft called The 
 Foreft of Chute, at the diftance of fifty-eight miles from Lon- 
 don. It is an ancient borough by prescription, and governed 
 by a mayor, chofen yearly at the court-Jeet of the Dean and 
 Chapter of Winchester, who are lords of the manor. The 
 freeholders chufe their reprefeniatives in parliament, who are 
 returned by the mayor. The chief trade of this town is in 
 fhalloons, ferges, and other articles of the woollen manu- 
 facture. 
 
 Petersfield ftands at the diftance of fifty-five miles from 
 London, in the road to Portfmouth 5 it is a borough, and 
 governed by a mayor and commonalty, who though incorpo- 
 rated by a charter of Queen Elizabeth, have (hamefully given 
 up all their privileges to the family of the Hamboroughs, who 
 are lords of the manor, and at whofe court the mayor is now 
 annually chofen. The town is populous, and not ill built ; 
 and being a great thoroughfare, is well accommodated with 
 inns. The church here is only a chapel of eafe. 
 
 Lemington, or L ymington, is a fmall but populous fea- 
 porr, pleafantly fltuated upon a hill that has a fine profpecl of 
 the lfle of Wight, in the narrow part of the ftreight called 
 The Needles, at the entrance of the bay of Southampton. It 
 is ninety-feven miles from London, and is a corporation by 
 prefcription, confifting of a mayor, aldermen, and burgefles 
 without limitation j its burgefles enjoy certain privileges 
 granted them by thofe of Southampton, in the reign of Ed- 
 ward the Third. The mayor is chofen by the burgefles, and 
 fworn at the court of the lord of the manor. This town 
 (lands within a mile of the fea, and has a quay, with cuftom- 
 houfe officers and ftupwrights. Great quantities of fait are 
 made here, which is faid to exceed moft in England for pre- 
 ferving flefti, and the fouth parts of the kingdom are chiefly 
 fupplkd with it from hence. 
 
 Rumsey is fltuated on the river Teft, which runs from 
 hence to Southampton bay : it is feventy-eight miles from 
 
 2 R 2 London 
 
3 i6 HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 London, and ftands in the road from Salifbury to Southamp- 
 ton, and is a pretty large old town, governed by a mayor, 
 a recorder, fix aldermen, and twelve burgeffes* Rumfey is 
 very delightfully fituated, with wood?, meadows, hilb, corn- 
 fields, and rivulets around it. The church is a noble pile 
 arched with ftone, in form of a crofs, and has fernUcircular 
 chapels in the upper angles or corners, where the two fides of 
 the walls meet. The place is chiefly inhabited by clothiers. 
 
 Ringwood is fituated near the river Avon, is ninety-five 
 miles from London, and was in the time of the Saxons a place 
 of eminence. It is large and well built, but the valley in 
 which it lies is frequently overflowed by the river, which here 
 divides into feveral ftreams : it is however a thriving town a 
 and has a good manufacture in drugget?, narrow cloths, flock* 
 iog c , and leather. 
 
 Waltham, called alfo Bijhop's Waltham^ and by a corrupt 
 abbreviation Bujh Waltham^ from a palace which the Bifhop of 
 Winchefler had formerly here, is feventy-three miles from 
 London, and has a charity-fchool. In 1723 there was a gang 
 of deer-ftealers called Tie Blacks of Waltham^ becaufe they 
 blacked their faces, when they robbed in the neighbouring 
 forefts. They were foon fupprefled by a proclamation and 
 an a£t of parliament. 
 
 Christ Church was anciently called Twinam Bourne % 
 from its fituation between the two rivers Avon and Stour,near 
 their conflux, and has borrcwed its prefent name from the dedi- 
 cation of its church to Chrift. It is one hundred and two 
 miles from London, and is governed by a mayor, a recorder, 
 aldermen, bailiffs, and common-councilmen. The chief ma- 
 nufactures are fiik (lockings and gloves. The river Avon, 
 which here falls into the fea, was made navigable to it from 
 Salifbury about the year 1680. 
 
 Odiham, fituated in the road to Bafingftoke, is forty-one 
 miles from London. It is a corporation town, and was for- 
 merly a free borough of the Bifhop of Winchefter; it has 
 jiow a charity-fchool for thirty boys. 
 
 Kxngsclere is pleafantly fituated on the downs, bordering 
 on Berkfture, and is fifty-five miles from London ; it was 
 
 once 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 once the feat of the Saxon Kings of this country, as its name 
 feems to import. 
 
 Fordingbridge is an obfeure town, ninety-one miles 
 frcm London. It is firuated on the river Avon, and was once 
 much larger, having fuffered greatly by fire. 
 
 Alresford is fixty miles from London, ftands on the road 
 to Winchefter, and issn ancient borough town, governed by 
 a bailiff and eight burgeffes. Part of a ! oman highway that 
 goes from hence to Akon and London, ferves for the head of 
 a great pond near this town, 
 
 Alton is fifty miles from London, and ftands in the road 
 from that city to Winchefter and Southampton, Here is a 
 charity-fchool. 
 
 Farham is feventy-three miles from London, and is a plea- 
 fant town, but of little note. 
 
 Havant is fixty-fix miles from London, and is a little 
 town of no note but for its market. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 The ruins of Netly Abbey^ near Southampton, which is 
 fuppofed to have been founded fo early as the twellth century, 
 from their venerable appearance, and the beauty of their iitu- 
 ation, never fail to infpire the attentive beholder with awe and 
 delight. 
 
 Hurftbourne Parky the feat of the Earl of Portfmouth, is a 
 new and magnificent building, fituated about five miles from 
 Andover and fixty from London, It is in a great meafure 
 compofed of the materials of the former manfion, which was 
 erected too near the canal by the prefent Earl of Portfmouth's 
 grand-father, about fixty years fince, who added the wings, 
 and compleated the houie, though it was originally begun by 
 his elder brother. The principal defign of the prefent ftruc- 
 ture was formed by Mr. Wyatt, and executed by Mr. Mea- 
 dows s and is efteemed a very mafterly plan for a nobleman's 
 
3*8 H A M P S H I R E. 
 
 feat. It is pleafantly fituated, on an elevated ground* within 
 about five hundred paces of the former edifice. The body of 
 the hcufe has a very grand appearance, and the wings are 
 connected on each fide by colonades of the Tufcan order* 
 The body contains fix very noble rooms on a floor ; in the 
 eaftern wing is the library, the chape?, and fte ward's room 5 
 and the weftern one confilts of an infinite variety of apart- 
 ments for the fervants, offices, and other accommodations* 
 The timbers and walls of the buildings are faid to be particu- 
 larly ftrong. The park is fmall, but delightfully wooded, and 
 well flocked with deer; and the adjacent ftream is remarkable 
 for the beauty and clearnefsof its water. 
 
 The Ear) of Portfmouth has another feat at Farley 9 near 
 Bafingftoke; but Huiftbourne is intended for his Lordfliip's 
 principal refidence. 
 
 Near Whitchurch his Lordlhip has alfo another fine feat, to 
 which belongs a very large park, beautified with wood and 
 water; and the irregularity of the ground, it having many 
 rifing hills in it, renders theprofpecT: very agreeable. 
 
 Beaulieu, in the New Foreft, was the feat of the Duke of 
 Montague; Hawkwood, near Bafingftoke, and Abbot/on, near 
 Alton, both belong to the Duke of Bolton ; Rockbourn Houfe^ 
 fifteen miles from Southampton, is the feat of the Earl of 
 Shaftefbury; Far nborough Place, fix miles from Odiham, is 
 the feat of the Earl of Anglefea ; Maple Durham, near Pe- 
 tersfield, was the feat of the late Henry Bilfon Legge, Efq; 
 Titchfield Place, near Titchfield, is the feat of the Duke of 
 Portland; The Grange, near Alresford, is the feat of the Earl 
 of Northington ; Whorewell, near Andover, is the feat of the 
 Earl of Delawar ; and Edefworth,ten miles from Portfmouth 5 
 is the fe^t of Lord Dormer. 
 
 At the hamlet of St. Mary's, a little to the north-eaft of 
 Southampton, flood an old Roman town, called Claufentum^ 
 a name which in the ancient Brkifh language fignifies The 
 Part of Entum. The ruins of this town may be traced as 
 far as the haven on one fide, and beyond the river Itching on 
 the other ; and the trenches of a caftle, half a mile in com- 
 pafs, areftill vifible in St, Mary's Field. This caftle is fup- 
 pofed to be one of the forts frequently ere&ed by the Romans 
 to keep out the Saxcns. 
 
 At 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 At Sikhejier? a hamlet, confifting only of one farm-houfb 
 snd a church, fituate nonh«.eaft of Kingfclere, upon the bor- 
 ders of Berkfhire, are to be feen the remains of the celebrated 
 Vindomia^ or Vindonum^ of the Romans, and the Caer Segont 
 of the Briton?, once the chief city of the Segontiaci ; and faid 
 to be built by Conftantius, the fan of Conftantine the Great, 
 who is reported to have fawn corn in the traces of the walls, 
 as an omen of their perpetuity. The walls, which are two 
 Italian miles in circumference, and built of flint and rag- 
 ftone, are ftill ftanding. They are furrounded by a ditch, 
 which is ftill impaffible, and full of fprings. At the dif* 
 ttance of five hundred feet without thefe walls, to the north- 
 eaft are the remains of an amphitheatre, which has long been 
 a yard for cattle, and a watering pond for horfes. In this 
 place ieveral Roman roads, which are ftill vifible, concur % 
 and In the neighbouring fields avaft number of Roman coins, 
 bricks, and other relic?, are often found; among the reft was 
 a ftone with the following infcription : ic Memories FL Vic~ 
 " torin& T. Tarn Viclor Conjux Pofnit*" and fame coins of 
 Conftantine, on the reverfe of which there is the figure of a 
 building, and this infcription : <c Providentia Gafs" Some 
 Britifh coins were alfo found here, which the common people 
 call Onion Pennies^ from one Onion, whom they will have to 
 be a giant, and an inhabitant of Vindomia. 
 
 Between the eaft fide of the river Avon and Southampton 
 Bay, is a foreft called New For eft , which is at leaft forty miles 
 in circumference. This tract of country originally abounded 
 with towns and villages, in which there was no lefs than 
 thirty-fix parifh churches ; but the whole was laid wafte, and 
 the inhabitants driven from their houfes and eftates,by William 
 the Norman, that it might be made an habitation for wild 
 beafts for him to hunt. It is remarkable that in this foreft, 
 the monument of his oppreffion and cruelty, two of his fans, 
 Richard, and William Rufus, and his grandfan Henry, loft their 
 lives. Richard was killed by a peftiiential blaft, and William 
 Rufus by an arrow, which was fliot by Sir Walter Tyrrel at 
 a ftag, and Henry, while he purfued his game, was caught by 
 the hair of his head in the boughs of a tree, and fufpended 
 there till he died. 
 
 On the extremity of a narrow neck of land, that runs two 
 miles into the fea from the New Foreft, &mi$ a building cal- 
 led 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 led Hurjle Caftle, which is one of the forts built by Henry 
 the Eighth, to defend that foreft againft invafions, to which it 
 had been many ages expofed. 
 
 On the weft fide of Andover is a village, at the beginning 
 of Salifbury plain, called fPeyhill, which, though containing 
 only a defolate church on a rifing ground, and a few ftragling 
 houfes, is remarkable for one of the greateft fairs in England, 
 for hops, cheefe, deep, and other articles. 
 
 At Odiham was formerly a royal palace, and a ftrong caftle, 
 which in King John's time was defended for fifteen days by 
 thirteen men only, againft Lewis the Dauphin of France, and 
 the army of the Barons. In this caftle David King of Scot- 
 land was kept prifoner in the reign of Edward the Third. 
 
 Titcbfield Abbey was founded by Peter deRupibus, Bifhop 
 of Winchefter, in the reign of Henry the Third, for Pre- 
 roonftratenfion canons, and was originally a noble ftru&ure. 
 
 Portchefter Caftle is the remains of the walls and fortifi- 
 cations of a very ancient and famous town, called Port Peris* 
 to which the name of Portchefter was afterward given. This 
 is fuppofed to have been the place where the Emperor Vefpa- 
 iian landed. 
 
 The ISLE of WIGHT. 
 
 This ifland is reckoned a part of Hampfhire, and lies diftant 
 from the neareft main land about four or five miles, is of an 
 elliptical form, twenty-two miles in length, twelve in breadth, 
 and fixty in circumference. It is divided into fifty two pa- 
 rities, and has very numerous advantages to recommend it, as 
 a moft agreeable fpot to refide in. Scarcely any place can be 
 named which is happier in the beauties of a varie-d country* 
 Here are hill?, dale?, mountains, rocks, wood, and water, all 
 in great perfection. The land is admirably fertile in both 
 grafs and corn. Here is game, particularly pheafant?, in the 
 grcateft plenty; as are alfo all kinds of provifions ; and the 
 place is furrounded by a fea, full of the fincft fifli in the Bri- 
 tifn dominions. 
 
 Through 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 321 
 
 Through the middle of the ifland, from eaft to weft, there 
 runs a ridge of mountains, which yields plenty of pafture for 
 iheep, and the wool of thefheep fed in thefe mountains, being 
 reckoned as good as any in England, turns out much to the 
 advantage cf the inhabitants. Here is found ti e milk-white 
 tobacco-pipe clay, called Creta, by writers of natural hiftory, 
 of which great quantities are exported from hence, together 
 with very fine fand, of which drinking glafies are made. 
 
 It has been obferved of this ifland, that it yields more corn 
 in one year than the inhabitants can confume in feven ; and 
 therefore great quantities are annually exported from this 
 place. 
 
 The only ftream in the Ifle of Wight, worthy of notice, is 
 that called Cowes River, a name given it from two towns 
 ftanding near its mouth, one on the weft bank of it, called 
 Weft Cowes , and the other on the eaft bank, diftinguifhed by 
 the name of Eaft Cowes \ it is fometimes called Newport River, 
 from Newport, fituated on the weft bank of it. This river 
 rifes near the excreme angle of the ifland fouthward, and run- 
 ning north, and dividing it into two almoft equal parts, falls 
 into the fea at the northmoft point of land here, (even mi'es 
 from Newport. 
 
 The Ifle cf Wight was in all probability part of the terri* 
 tories which were anciently inhabited by the Belgae. It was 
 fubjecled to the power of the Romans by Vefpafian, under 
 the Emperor Claudian, about the year 4.5. Cerdic, King of 
 the Weft Saxons, was thefirft Saxon Prince whofubdued it ; 
 he beftowed it on Whitgar, who put all the Brkifh inhabi- 
 tants to the fword, and peopled it with a tribe of foreigners, 
 called The Jutes, who followed the Saxons into England, and 
 are fuppofed to be originally Goths. This ifland remained 
 fubjecl to the Jutes, till about the year 650, when it was con- 
 quered by Walfer, King of the Mercians, and given to fidel- 
 wach. King of the South Saxons ; though fome hiiiorians 
 affirm that it was given to bigebert, King of the *iaft Angles, 
 on condition of hit* embracing the Chriftian religion. Cad* 
 walla, King of the Weft Saxons, is faid fome time afterwards 
 to have invaded this ifland, and to have reduced it to his obe- 
 dience, by putting the inhabitants to the fword. 
 
 The Ifle of Wight, together with the neighbouring iflands 
 of Guernfey and Jeriey, fituated near the French coaft, was 
 
 Vol, L 2 S m£zd 
 
322 H A M P S H I R E. 
 
 cre£ied into a* kingdom by Henry the Sixth, and beftowed on 
 Henry de Beauchamp, Duke of Warwick, whom he crowned 
 King with his.own hands, bat the Duke dying without iffue, 
 thefe iflands loft their regality* 
 
 Nature has fortified this ifland almoftal! round with rocks, 
 and where thefe are wanting, art has fupplied the deficiency 
 with caftles, forts, and block-houfes, to defend it againftany 
 ltoftile invafion. The moft dangerous of thefe rocks are the 
 Shingles and the Needles upon the weft fide of it, the Bram- 
 ble and the Middle on the north, and the Mixcn on the eaft» 
 
 The two parts into which the river Cowes fcparates this 
 ifland, are the hundreds, or civil divifions of it, which are 
 called The Medinas, from Medina, the ancient name of New- 
 port ; and are diftinguiflied, one by the name of Eqft, the 
 other of the Weft Medina^ in refpedt as each is fituated eafi 
 or weft of Newport* — The ifland contains the three following 
 market-towns. 
 
 Newport is ninety«three miles from London, and is a 
 very ancient borough by prefcription, but did not fend mem- 
 bers to pail iament before the reign of Queen Elizabeth. By 
 2 charter of James the Firft it is governed by a mayor, twelve 
 aldermen, a recorder, and twelve common*councilrnen. This 
 is a large populous town, greatly enriched by its commerce. 
 Cowes river is navigable by barges to Newport quay, which 
 extends itfelf round good part of the town, which renders 
 their (hipping off goods from the ftorehoufes very commo- 
 dious \ the ftreets are regular and uniform, meeting at right- 
 angles. The corn, beaft, and butter markets, are kept at dis- 
 tant fquares, and are very large and commodious. The build- 
 ings are greatly improved, but neither grand nor regular. T he 
 church is a large building, with a fquare tower, and a curious 
 organs but is, notwkhftanding, only a chapel of eafe to 
 Carefbrook,a village in the neighbourhoods Here is a charity- 
 fchocl. 
 
 Yarmouth, called aUo South Yarmouth, to diftinguifti it 
 from Yarmouth in Norfolk, ftands upon a creek about one 
 mile from the fea, and is one hundred and one miles from Lon- 
 don. It was made a corporatioo by James the Firft, and is 
 governed by a mayor and twelve burgefles. Hereisacaftle 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 and a garrifon, and about eigfity handfome houfes, chiefly 
 built of free-ftone. Veflels fometimes put in at this place, 
 when the weather will not permit them to fail by the Needles. 
 
 Newton is ninety-four miles from London, and is go- 
 verned by a mayor and burgefles. it has fent members to 
 parliament ever fince the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and has a 
 convenient haven, or creek, in the north fide of the ifland, 
 between Yarmouth and Welt Cowes, but is a very inconfide- 
 rable place. 
 
 The principal forts or cafiles in this ifland are the following: 
 
 Carejbrook Cafile was originally built by the Saxons, and 
 has been repaired feveral times, and about the beginning of the 
 fixteenth century was magnificently rebuilt by the governor 
 of the ifland, though probably at the charge of the. crown. 
 This caftle is ftiil the feat of the governor : it was formerly 
 much ufed as a place of confinement for prifoners of the 
 higheft quality, and Charles the Firft was a prifon'er here 
 thirteen months. 
 
 At Weft Cowes there is a caftle to defend the mouth of the 
 river. It was built by Henry the Eighth, and has a ganilon 
 under the command of the deputy-governor of the ifland. 
 There was alfo a caftle at Eaft Cowes, but that has been for 
 a long time neglected, 
 
 Sandowrii or Sanham Ca/fle^ in the Eaft Medina, ftands on 
 the north end of the bay, hence called Sandown Bay, and is 
 three leagues from Portfmouih ; this is the ftrongeft caftle in 
 the ifland, and here is always a garrifen, with a governor and 
 captain, and thirty wardens, beiides gunners. 
 
 Sharpnor Caftle ftands directly oppofite to Hurfte Caftle, 
 and ufed to have afmall garrifon under a governor. 
 
 The following are the moft remarkable feats, villages, &c. 
 on this ifland : 
 
 Mr. Rogers, of Weft Cowes, has an agreeable feat on 
 a riling ground near the fea, which commands a noble view 
 
 2 S 2 Of 
 
324. HAMPSHIR E. 
 
 of the channel from Porrfmouth quite to Lynrngton, and the 
 mouth of the Southampton river. The high lands in SufTex, 
 the hills in Hamp&ire, and the woody coaft of the New 
 Foreft, all bound the view, and form for one ftroke of the 
 eye the nobleft river perhaps the world can exhibit: the 
 breadth is from three to feven miles, and the length from 
 twenty •five to thirty. This beautiful expanfe of water is 
 fcarcely ever free from the enlivening addition of all forts of 
 fhipF, from the largeft men of war down to forre hundreds of 
 fifiiing boats. Every day gives a new view of fleets, and the 
 attitudes of the finglefhips offer a variety uncommonly enter- 
 taining. Upon the whole, it much exceeds any fea profpedl: : 
 the unentertaining range of boundlefs ocean ftrikes at firft a 
 fublime idea, but the repetition of the view has but few 
 charms ; whereas this profpecT: fatigues in nothing. You 
 either command diftinftly a noble lake land-locked in a moft 
 various manner, or, as you vary your pofition, a winding river 
 that cannot be exceeded in beauty* The home views about 
 Mr. Rogers's grafs plot, are admirably plealing : the village 
 of Cowes in a bottom, hid by wood, is marked by the courfe 
 of the (hipping that are conftantly moving to and from it. 
 Above the village a hill of uncultivated land rifes finely, and 
 forms a ftrong projection to the fea, finilhing in a fpace of wild 
 woody ground : the whols is a very bold fhore. From one 
 of the feats you look through the fterns of four large trees 
 into a very pretty landfcape : a river at the bottom of a vale, 
 a few houfes on its banks, backed with a rifinghill cut into 
 inclofures, and variegated with woods, trees, hedges, &c. 
 
 On this ifland are alfo the feats of Sir William Qglander^ 
 Sir John Barrington, Mr. Grove, the late Honourable Hans 
 Stanley, and Sir Richard Worfley, the late governor, all being 
 in delightful fituacion$,and poiTeffing beauties fufficient to at«* 
 iracT: the vifits of ftrangers, efpecially the latter, the park 
 being very romantic. The houfe alfo is a very noble edifice, 
 and was not long fince cornpleatly fitted up in all the elegance 
 gf modern tafte# 
 
 At the diftance of a mile or two from Cowes, is a fpot 
 called Gurnard Bay, from the hills by which is a very fine 
 and romantic view : the water breaks boldly into the land in 
 yaricus bays and creeks. In front, the river is bounded on 
 
HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 the other fide the water by the New Foreft, ^ith the diftant 
 hills beyond. The Dorfetfture hills rife in fine varieties ; in 
 particular one large and two fmall and irregular ones. To 
 the left the ifland proje£is in four promontories, which are 
 didinclly feen one beyond another \ the fur theft is a hill in a 
 dark (hade ; the next, higher grounds, varied in inclofures; 
 nearer to you another, in which the corn-fields, cut by fine 
 hedges, break boldly to the very water ; the ploughmen feem 
 to tread the main, A piece cf wild broken ground, forming 
 a noble fhore, feparates this land from another promontory 
 almoft at your feet, which is a fine Hope of wood, that dips 
 quite to the water; its head a cultivated field. The whole 
 fcene is complete, all within the eye's ken ; the whole great, 
 various, and beautiful. 
 
 Nor Is the northern part of the ifland deftitute of more rural 
 views,though not in the whole equal to them in the fouthern. 
 From Cockleton Farm, in Northwood parifh, a vale winds 
 under a fprtading hill, cut into inclofures, and finely fringed 
 with wood, on which the views are truly pidiurefque. 
 
 Frejhwater isafmall village about ten miles from Newport, 
 famous for its cliffs, which are of a ftupendous height, and 
 often vifited by Grangers, on account of the great number of 
 exotic birds, which annually refort to thofe cliffs to lay their 
 eggs, hatch, and breed their young, 
 
 St» He/ens lies at the eaft end of the ifland, about twelve 
 miles from Newport* It is only remarkable for its road, 
 which is large enough to contain the whole navy of England. 
 
 HEREFORDSHIRE, 
 
HEREFORDSHIRE. 
 
 / TpH!S county is bounded on the north by Shropfhtre, on 
 X the fouth by Monmouthfhire, on the eaft by Worcef- 
 terfhireand Gloucefterfhire, and on the weft by the Welch 
 counties of Brecknockfhire and Radnorfliire, It is almoft 
 of a circular form, meafuring thirty-five miles from north to 
 fouth, and thirty miles from eaft to weft, and is one hundred 
 and eighty miles in circumference. 
 
 The air of this county is pure, and confequently healthy, 
 particularly between the rivers Wye and Severn, which has 
 given occafion to a proverb very commnaon among the inha- 
 bitants of the county : " Bleffed is the eye between Severn 
 and Wye." 
 
 The foil of Hereford is extremely fertile, yielding fine pas- 
 ture, and great quantities of corn ; it is alfo well flocked with 
 wood, and there are fbme apple-trees, particularly cheredftreaks, 
 w hich thrive here better than in any other county ; the hedgts 
 on the highways are Full of them, and the hogs grow fat 
 by feeding on the windfalls, which give a reddifh colour and 
 fweet tafte to their ftefh ; but from thefe apples a much greater 
 advantage arifes to the inhabitants, for they afford fuch quan- 
 tities of cyder that it is the common drink of the county ; 
 and a few years ago, when the fmooth cyder was preferred to 
 the rough, it was efteemed the beftin England ; and a great 
 quantity of rough cyder has been made here fince the rough 
 was preferred to the frnootrw 
 
 This county abounds with fprings of fine water,- and the 
 rivers affords abundance of fifa. The county is watered by 
 feveral rivers, the chief of which are the Wye, the Monow, 
 and the Lug. — The Wye paffes through this county, and fe- 
 parates Monmouthfhire from Glouceflerfhire, — The Monow 
 rifes in a chain of mountains called Hatterel Hiils 9 which on 
 the fouth-weft feparates this county from Radnorfhire; then 
 jt runs fouth-eaft, dividing Monmouthfhire from Hereford- 
 fhirej and after having been augmented by feveral lefs confi- 
 
 derable 
 
HEREFORDSHIRE. 337 
 
 derable dreams, falls Into the Wye at Monmouth. — The Lug 
 rifes in the hills in the north-eaft of Radnorfhire, runs by fe- 
 veral windings eaft through Hereford {hire to Leomintter, and 
 thence running fouth-eaft, after having been joined by feveral 
 fmaller rivers, falls into the Wye, near Hereford* — Other lefs 
 confiderable rivers in this county are the Frome, the Loden, 
 the Wadel,the Arrow, and the Dare. 
 
 This county is divided into eleven hundreds, and contains 
 one city and feven market-towns. It lies in the province of 
 Canterbury and diocefe of Hereford, and contains one huiv» 
 dred and feventy-fix parifties. 
 
 C I T Y. 
 
 The city of HEREFORD ftands on the river Wye, and 
 here that river falls into the Severn, and makes part of the 
 barrier between England and Wales. Its name is Saxon, 
 snd is fuppofed to fignify the hrd of thearmy* As the two 
 nations were aimoft -always at war with one another, this 
 town was generally the head quarters of fuch Saxon or 
 Englifh forces as were {rationed in the county 5 and at this 
 place both armies probably forded the river when they paffed 
 out of Wales into England, or out of England into Wales, 
 This etymology, though plaufibie, has been much difputed. 
 1 This city is overlooked and flickered towards the north 
 with a prodigious mountain of {iesjp afcent % on the top of 
 which ftands a vaft camp, with works altogether inacceftlble, 
 which is called Credon Hill. On the fummit you are prefen« 
 ted with an extenfive profpeci as far as St. Michael's Mount 
 in Monmouthfhire, crowned with two tops, and of conside- 
 rable refort among the zealots of the Romifb perfuafion, who 
 believe that this holy hill was fent thither by St. Patrick out 
 of Ireland, and that it works wonders in feveral cafes. — -On 
 the other fide is the vaft black mountain, which feparates 
 Brecknockfliire from this county. The city underneath ap- 
 pears like a little copfe*— Dinden Hi!), on which is a Roman 
 camp, ftands on the contrary bank of the river Wye. 
 
 Hereford is governed by a mayor znd twelve aldermen, a 
 high- fte ward, a deputy-fteward, a recorder and town-clerk, 
 with thirty-one common- council men, among whom are 
 tecksnedthe mayor, and five of the aldermen, who arejuliices 
 
 of 
 
328 
 
 HEREFORDSHIRE. 
 
 of the peace ; the mayor has a fword-bearer and four ferje- 
 ants at mace* The trading companies have their diftindt 
 halls, laws, and privileges; and here are held the affixes, 
 quarter feffions, and county courts. A fmall river that ap- 
 pears to have no name, running by the north fide of the city, 
 falls on the eaft fide of it into the Wye, which flows by the 
 fouth fide, fo that this city is furrounded by rivers, except on 
 the weft fide. It often fuffers by the fwel! of the Wye on the 
 fouth, over which it has a good ftone bridge of eight arches. 
 It is about a mile and half in circumference; the houfes are 
 old, the ftreets dirty, and the inhabitants few. It has now a 
 cathedral, and four parifh churches ; before the civil wars in 
 the laft century it had fix, but two of them are deftroyed. 
 The cathedral is a beautiful and magnificent ftruciure, adorned 
 with the monuments of feverai of its ancient prelates. It 
 has a bifhop, a dean, a chancellor, fixteen canons, twenty* 
 feven prebendaries, a chanter, a treafurer, and twelve vicars 
 choral, with deacons, chorifters, and other officers. The 
 bifiiop has a palace called The Caftle^ and the other Jignicaries 
 have houfes in a place called TheClofe ; the vicars and cho- 
 rifters alfo have a college in which they live, in a collegiate or 
 academical way, under a governor or prefident : thefituatioa 
 is pleafant, but the buildings are mean. 
 
 This city is one hundred and thirty-two miles from Lon- 
 don, and has an hofpital, which was founded in the reign of 
 Queen Elizabeth, and well endowed, for twelve poor people; 
 and two charity-fchools, one for fixty boys, the other for 
 forty girls, who are all clothed by fubfeription. — The only 
 manufacture is gloves, and fome other leathern wares* 
 
 Hereford Cafile was a noble work, built by one of the 
 Edwards, and ftrongly walled and ditched. It has a very 
 lofty artificial keep, with a well, fenced with good ftone; 
 and by the fide of the ditch is a fpring confecrated to St. 
 Ethelbert, with an old ftone arch. Upon the fite of the an- 
 cient caftle, the corporation have made a public walk, called 
 The Cafile Green* It is very handfome, well kept, and adorned 
 with feats, buildings, trees, &c. It is wafhed on one fide by 
 the river Wye, commands the mo ft pleafing profpe&s, and is 
 perhaps one of the moil delightful public walks belonging to 
 any town in England. 
 
 MARKET. 
 
HEREFORDSHIRE. 329 
 
 MARKET- TOWNS. 
 
 Leominster is diftant from London one hundred and 
 thirty-feven miles; it was incorporated by Queen Mary, and 
 is governed by a high-fteward, a bailiff, a recorder, twelve 
 capital burgeffes, out of whom the bailiff is chofen, and a 
 town-clerk. It is a large, handfome, populous town, with 
 feveral bridges over the river Lug, and is a great thoroughfare 
 between South Wales and London. It has a' large beautiful 
 church, and an alms-houfe, founded by the widow of a mari 
 who is faid to have given away the greateft part of his eftate 
 in his life-time, and to have been afterwards treated with dif- 
 refpec*T, from which his money would have preferved him. 
 This is probably alluded to by the figure of a man, holding 
 up a hatched, in a nich over the entrance to the houfe, with 
 the following lines underneath : 
 
 " Let him that gives his goods before he's dead, 
 cc Take this hatchet, and cut off his head." 
 
 At the fairs of this town are fold many horfes and black 
 cattle, and it had fo confiderable a trade in wool at its market, 
 which was held on a Thurfday, the fame day as the market 
 was held at Hereford and Worcefter, that thofe cities peti- 
 tioned to have the day changed, complaining of their lofs of 
 trade. Upon this petition Leominfter market-day was changed 
 from Thurfday to Friday, and fince that time the trade has 
 greatly decreafed. The wool brought to this market has been 
 reckoned the beft in all Europe, except that of Apulia and 
 Tarentum, and was defervedly called Leominfter Ore> becaufe 
 it greatly enriched the town. This town has alfo the beft of 
 flax, wheat, and barley, in England, carries on a confiderable 
 trade in wool, gloves, leather, and hats, having many mills 
 and other machines conftantly working on the rivers that flow 
 through the valley on which it ftands. 
 
 The ruins of a palace are ftill to be feen on a neighbouring 
 hill, called Comfort Cajlle j and at the eafl end of the church 
 of Leominfter, there are fome few remains of a priory. 
 
 Ross ftands upon the river Wye, at the diftance of one 
 hundred and nineteen miles from London. It was made a 
 free borough by Henry the Third, and is a populous well 
 built town, qonfifting chiefly of two ftreets, each about half a 
 
 Vol. I, 2 T mile 
 
33° 
 
 HEREFORDSHIRE. 
 
 mile long, croffing each other in the middle. Here are two 
 charity-fchools, one for thirty boys, and the other for twenty 
 girls, who are taught and cloathed by fubfcription. This 
 town is much frequented on account of its markets and fairs, 
 which are well ftored with cattle and other provifions. It is 
 famous for cyder; and Mr* Camden fay?, that in his time it 
 had a confiderable manufacture of iron wares. The man of 
 Rofs, fo much celebrated by Mr. Pope, lived and was buried 
 here. 
 
 Kyneton ftands on a fmall river called The Arrow^ at the 
 diftance of one hundred and fifty-two miles from London. 
 It is a pretty large, well-built, old town, inhabited chiefly by 
 clothiers, who carry on a confiderable trade in narrow cloths. 
 Its market is one of the moft confiderable in the county j and 
 it has a free-fchool and a charity-fchool. 
 
 Ledbury (lands at the fouth end of a ridge of mountains 
 called Malvern HilU % on the eaft fide of this county, at the 
 diftance of one hundred and twenty-two miles from London. 
 It is a well-built town, inhabited chiefly by clothiers, and has 
 an hofpital liberally endowed, befides a charity-fchool. 
 
 Bromyard ftands in a country full of orchards, near a 
 river called The Frome, at the diftance of one hundred and 
 twenty-three miles from London. It is a little obfcure town, 
 containing nothing remarkable, 
 
 Webley, fituated at the diftance of one hundred and forty- 
 three miles from London, is an ancient borough by prefcrip- 
 tion,but no corporation* Here are two charity-fchools. 
 
 Pembridge is a fmall town upon the river Arrow, at the 
 diftance of one hundred and forty~feven miles from London 3 
 where there is a manufacture of woollen cloth. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Between Leominfler and Hereford is another Hampton 
 Court i the feat of the late Earl of Coningfby, This fine feat 
 
 was 
 
HEREFORDSHIRE. 
 
 33* 
 
 was built by Henry Bolingbroke, Duke of Lancafter, after* 
 wards King Henry the Seventh, in the form of a caftle fitu- 
 ared in a valley upon a rapid river, under cover of Bryn Mavvr. 
 The gardens are very pleafant, terminated by vaft woods, 
 which cover all the lloping fides of the hill, and there is a 
 plentiful fupply of water on all fides of the houfe, for foun- 
 tains, bafons, and canals. Within are excellent pictures of 
 the Earl's anceftors, with many others by capital artifts. The 
 windows of the chapel are well painted, and there are fome 
 itatues cf the Conin^foies. The record- room is on the top 
 of a tower arched with ftone, paved with Roman brick, and 
 has an iron door. From the bottom of a ftair-cafe, which 
 reaches to the top of the houfe, a fubterraneous communi- 
 cation is faid to reach into Bryn-Mawr wood. The park is 
 very fine, eight miles in circumference, and contains plenty of 
 deer. Here are very extenfive profpe&s, on one fide extending 
 into Wiltfliire, and on the other over the Welch mountains, 
 lawns$ groves, canals, hills, and plains. Here is alfo a pool, 
 three quarters of a mile long, very broad, and enciofed be- 
 tween two great woods* A new river is cut quite through 
 the park, the channel of which, for a long way together, is 
 .hewn out of the rock, and ferves to enrich vaft tracts of land, 
 which before were barren. Here aifo are new gardens and 
 canals laid out, and new plantations of cimber in very prop er 
 places. Warrens, decoys, fheep-walks, pafiures for cattle, 
 &c. fupply the houfe with ail forts of convenkncies and ne- 
 ceffaries. 
 
 Bro?npton Brian and Wigmore Cajiles lie in a very fruitful 
 country, near Ludlow, iSrompton is an ancient and ftately 
 caftle, though not kept in full repair, and the parks are fine, 
 and full of large timber* From the windows of the caftle 
 you have a fine profpect into the county of Radnor in W ales, 
 which is, as it were, under its walls $ indeed, the whole 
 county of Hereford was for many ages deemed a part of 
 Wales. The traveller will probably be furprized to find fo 
 pleafant and fruitful a country as this fo near the barren 
 mountains of the weft \ but certain it is, that none or our 
 fouthern counties, the neighbourhood of London excepted, 
 come up to the fertility of this county. 
 
 2 T 2 
 
332 
 
 HEREFORDSHIRE, 
 
 Jconbury, three miles from Hereford, is the feat of the Duke 
 of Chandos. At Shopton Court, eight miles from Hereford, 
 is a feat of Lord Bateman ; at Rothens, near Hereford, is the 
 feat of Mr. Heirs ; and at Home Lacy , near Brockhampton, 
 is the feat of the family of Scudamores. 
 
 Upon the river Lug are Sutton Walls, a vaft Roman camp, 
 feated upon a hill, and overlooking a beautiful vale, which 
 was the regal refidence of the powerful King Offa. 
 
 Near Lanterdin is a Roman camp, called Brandon, a fingle 
 fquare work with four pofts ; near which are two barrows, 
 where, in 1662, an urn was found with afhes and bones. — 
 AdouC a mile from thence, on the other fide of the river Bard- 
 field, was a Britifh camp, called Croxall, now covered with 
 large oaks# 
 
 Below a hill, on which ftands Richard's Caftle, about 
 five miles north of Leorninfter, is a well called Bone Well, 
 in which a great quantity of fmall bones is always found, 
 and of which there is conftantly a frefh fupply in a very (hort 
 time after it is cleared of therm Some imagine thefe to be 
 the bones of fome fmall fi \h , and others the bones of frogs; 
 but whence, or how they came to be collected here is not eafy 
 to be conjectured. 
 
 On the top of one of the hills called Malvern Hills, there 
 is a fpring, the water of which is faid to be a remedy for 
 many diforders of the eyes ; and at about a furlong diftance 
 is another, faid to be of great efficacy in the cure of cancers* 
 
 At Doward Hill, in the parifli of Whitchurch, not far 
 from Rofs, fome men, who were digging, found a cavity, 
 which appeared to have been arched over, and in it a human 
 fkeleton, which appeared to have been more than double the 
 fiature of the talleft man now known. Thefe bones were, 
 feme years ago, in the poffeffion of a furgeon at BriftoU 
 
 In the year 1575, Mar cley Hill, about fix miles eaft of 
 Hereford, after fhaking and roaring in a terrible manner, for 
 three days together, was, about fix o'clock on Sunday even- 
 ing, put in motion, and continued moving for eight hours, in 
 
 vvhich 
 
HEREFORDSHIRE. 
 
 333 
 
 which time it advanced upwards of two hundred feet from its 
 former fituation, and mounted twelve fathoms higher than it 
 was before. In the place whence it let out it left a gap four 
 hundred feet long, and three hundred and twenty feet broad, 
 and in its prn^efs it overthrew a chapel, belonging to a vil- 
 lage called Kinnaflon^ together with all the trees, houfes, and 
 every other thing that flood in its way ; carrying with it the 
 trees that grew upon it, with fheep folds, and fome flocks of 
 fheep that were grazing on it. Mr. Camden obferves, that 
 the earthquake which removed this hill, was of that kind 
 which the natural ifts call Brafmatia % being a motion up and 
 down, or perpendicular to the horizon. 
 
 AiGoodrich^n^x Rofs, is a very ancient caftkjnow in ruins* 
 
 HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 THIS county is bounded by Cambridgefhire on the north* 
 by Middlefexon the foutb, by Bedfordfhire and Buck- 
 inghamshire on the weft, and by Effex on the Eaft. It mea- 
 sures twenty-eight miles from eaft to weft, thirty-fix miles 
 from north tofoutb, and one hundred and thirty miles in cir- 
 cumference j and is divided into eight hundreds, in which are 
 eighteen market-towns: one hundred and twenty parifhes, 
 and about four hundred and fifty-one thoufand acres. This 
 county is watered by feveral rivers, the chief of which are the 
 Lea, the Coin, the Score, the Ver, and the New River. 
 
 The air of this county is very pure, and confequently 
 healthy, and is often recommended by phyficians to valetudi- 
 narians, for the prefervation and recovery of health. The 
 foil is for the moft part rich, and in feveral places mixed with 
 a marie, which produces excellent wheat and barley. The 
 chief produce of this county is wood, wheat, barley, and all 
 other forts of grain ; and the wheat and barley of Hertford- 
 fhire are generally held in very high eftimation. 
 
 This county lies in the province of Canterbury, and partly 
 in the diocefe of London, and partly in that of Lincoln. 
 
 MARKET-TOWNS. 
 
 Hertford is at the diftance of twenty-one miles from 
 London, and was a place of fome note in the time of the an- 
 cient Britons. The Eaft Saxon Kings often kept their 
 courts here, and upon the firft divifion of the kingdom into 
 counties, it was made the county-town. It fent members to 
 parliament in the reign of King Edward the Firft, but after 
 the feventh of Henry the Fifth, on the petition of the bailiff 
 and burgeffes to be excufed, on account of their poverty, that 
 
 privilege 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE; 335 
 
 privilege was difcontinued till the twenty-fecond of James 
 the Firft. 
 
 In the time of Henry the Seventh, the fiandard of weights 
 and meafures was fixed here, and Queen Mary made this a 
 corporation, by the name of bailiffs and burgefles ; and by 
 her charter the number of burgefles was to have been fixteent 
 In the twenty-fifth and thirty-fifth years of Queen Elizabeth, 
 Michaelmas term was kept here, by reafon of the plague being 
 at both thefe times in London ; and that Queen granted this 
 town a new charter. King James the Firft afterwards granted 
 it another charter, with the ftile of mayor, burgefles, and 
 commonalty, to have ten capita! burgefles and fixteen afiiftants, 
 and the mayor to be chofen out of the burgefles, by both the 
 burgefles and affiftants; but now this town is governed by a 
 Inayor, a high-fteward, who is generally a nobleman, a re- 
 corder, nine aldermen, a town-clerk, chamberlain, ten capital 
 burgefles, and fixteen afiiftants, together with two ferjeants at 
 mace. 
 
 The town of Hertford (land? pleafantly in a fweet air and 
 dry vale : it is built after the figure of a Roman Y, and has a 
 caftle placed between the two horns, in which is the feflions- 
 houfe for the county* It has alfo a county-gaol, and formerly 
 had five churches, which now are reduced to two, All Saints 
 and St, Andrews. All Saints is fituated on the fouthfideof the 
 town, and has a tall fpire covered with lead, and eight good 
 bells, befides an organ, and an handfome gallery for the mayor 
 and aldermen of the borough, and for the governors of Chrift- 
 Church Hofpital in London, who have ere£ted a good houfe in 
 this town to receive fick and fupernumerary children; they 
 have alfo built a large gallery in the church, in which two 
 hundred of their children may be accommodated. St. An- 
 drew's is only remarkable for giving its name to one of the 
 ftreets. Here are three charity-ichools, and alfo a free 
 grammar-fchool, founded by Richard Hale, Efqj in the reign 
 of King James the Firft, 
 
 The chief commodities of this town are wheat, malt, and 
 wool ; and it is faid to fend no iefs than five thoufand quarters 
 of malt to London weekly, by the river Lea. It is obferved, 
 however, that the magnificence of this town is much dimi- 
 nifhed fince the north road from London, which went through 
 it 3 was turned through the town of Ware. 
 
 The 
 
33 6 
 
 HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 The Caftle of Hertford was built by King Alfred, to de- 
 fend the town and neighbourhood againft the Danes, who came 
 up in their light pinnaces from the Thames by the river Lea, 
 as far as Ware, and erected a fort here, whence they made fre- 
 quent fallies to plunder and defiroy the country. 
 
 The members of parliament for Hertford are chofen by the 
 freemen in general, the mayor being the returning officer. 
 The weekly market is on Saturday, and there are four annual 
 fairs held here, namely, on Saturday fortnight before Eafter, 
 the 12th of May, the 5th of July, and the 8th of November. 
 
 St. Alban's is a large and very ancient town, twenty-one 
 miles from London, and was fo called from St. Alban, who 
 fuffered in the perfecution under Dioclefian, and being after- 
 wards canonized, and interred on a hill in the neighbourhood 
 of this town, a monaftery was erected and dedicated to him 
 by King Offa, King Edward the Firft erected a magnificent 
 crofs here in memory of Queen Eleanor ; and King Edward 
 the Sixth incorporated this town by a charter, granting the in- 
 habitants a mayor, a fteward, a chamberlain, and ten burgefles ; 
 but the mayor and fteward are here the only juftices of the 
 peace. Here are three churches, befides the ancient cathedral 
 called St* jlbans, belonging to the monaftery, which is now 
 aparifti church. 
 
 In this ancient edifice is a funeral monument and effigy of 
 King Offa, its founder, who is reprefented feated on his 
 throne ; and underneath is the following infcription : 
 
 <f Fundator ecclefia circa annum 793 ; 
 
 * c £>uem male depiclum, et refidentem cervitis alte 
 
 u Sublimem folio , Mercius Offa fuit." 
 
 That is, 
 
 The founder of the church, about the year 793, 
 Whom you behold ill-painted on his throne 
 Sublime, was once for Mercian Offa known. 
 
 On the eaft fide flood the flirine of St. Alban, where the 
 following Abort infcription is ftill to be feen : 
 
 ** S, Albanus Verolamensis, Anglorum Proto-Marfyr, 
 ** 17 Junii, 293." 
 
 In 
 
/ 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE, 337 
 
 In the fouth ifle, near the above fhrine is the monument of 
 Humphry, brother to King Henry the Fifth, commonly dif- 
 tinguiflied by the title of The good Duke of Ghucefter. It is 
 adorned with a ducal coronet, and the arms of France and 
 Fngiand quartered. In niches on one fide are feventeen 
 Kings ; but in the niches on the other lide there are no fla- 
 tties remaining. The inscription which alludes to the pre- 
 tended miraculous cure of a blind man, detected by the Duke, 
 is as follows ; 
 
 M Pise Memorise V. Opt, Sacrum. 
 <e Hie jctcet Humphredus, Dux tile Glouceflrius o/im, 
 <c Henrici Sexti protedor yfraudis inept cs 
 " Detc£ior> dim fitfa not at miracula ccsci* 
 cc Lumen erat patriae, columen *venerabikregni, 
 * ' Pads amans, Muff que fa<vens melioribus ; unde 
 £e Gratum opus Oxonio, qua nunc fchola facra refulget* 
 U Invida fed mulier regno, regi,fbi nequam, 
 ** Abjiulit bunc, humili <vix, hoc dignata fpukro* 
 ** ln<vidia rumpente tamen, poft funera vivit. 
 
 Which has been thus tranilated : 
 
 Sacred to the Memory of the heft of Men. 
 Interred within this confecrated ground, 
 Lies he whom Henry his protector found ; 
 Good Humphry, Glouc'fter's Duke, who well could fpy 
 Fraud couch'd within the blind impoftor's eye. 
 His country's light, the date's rever'd fupport, 
 Who peace and rifing learning deign'd to court ; 
 Whence his rich library at Oxford plac'd, 
 Her ample fchools with facred influence grae'd ; 
 Yet fell beneath an envious woman's wile, 
 Both to herfelf, her king, and country vile ; 
 Who fcarce allow'd his bones this fpot of land % 
 Yet fpite of envy fhall his glory ftand. 
 
 About fixty years ago, in digging a grave, a pair of flairs 
 were difcovered, that led down into a vault where a leaden 
 coffin was found, in which his body was preferved entire, by 
 a kind of pickle in which it lay, only the flefli was wafted from 
 the legs, the pickle at that end being dried up. — Many curious 
 medals and coins are to be feen in the church, that have been 
 dug out of the ruins of Old Verularn that flood on the other 
 fide of the river Ve^ or Moore, which runs fouth-weft of the 
 town. 
 
 Vol. I, % U In 
 
338 
 
 HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 In the chancel of St. MichaePs church in this town, there* 
 is a neat monument of white marble, erected to the memory 
 of the famous Lord Bacon, by Sir Thomas Meauty's, who 
 was his Lordftup's fecretary. This nobleman, though he had 
 fomeconfiderable failings as a man and as a ftatefman, poflefled 
 one of the moft comprehensive underftandings, and was one 
 of the greateft philofophers that have appeared in this or in 
 any other country. On his monument his Lordfhip is repre- 
 sented fitting in a chair in a contemplative and his ufual paf- 
 ture,onehand fupporting his head, the other hanging over the 
 arm of the chair, and underneath the following inscription i 
 
 "FRANCISCUS BACON, 
 
 " Baro de Verulam, Sanfti Albani Vice come s % 
 " Seu notioribus titulis, 
 H Scientiarum Lumen, Facundia Lex, 
 " Sic/edebat. 
 
 €€ Que poftquam omnia naturalis fapientia, 
 " Et ci'vilis arcana e<vol<viJJet, 
 €( Natura Decretum Explevit, 
 
 " Compofita Solvantur ; 
 " Anno Domini, M.DC.XXVT. 
 « jEtatislXVl. 
 
 " Tanti Viri 
 « Mem. 
 f< Thomas Meautys, 
 " Superftitis Cultor, 
 " Def unfit Admirator. 
 " H. P." 
 
 Which may be thus tranflated : 
 FRANCIS BACON, 
 Baron of Verulam, Vifcount St.^ Alban's ; , 
 Or, by more confpicuous Titles, , 
 Of Sciences the Light, of Eloquence the Law, 
 Sat thus. 
 
 Who, after all natural Wifdom, 
 Andfecretsof civil Life he had unfolded, 
 Nature's Law fulled, 
 Let Compounds be dijjol^ed^ 
 In the Year of our Lord, M.DCXXVL 
 Of his Age, LXVI. 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 339 
 
 To the Memory of To great a Man, 
 Thomas Meautys, 
 Living his Attendant, 
 Dead his Admirer, 
 Hath placed this Monument. 
 
 The town of St. Alban's is built in an irregular manner^ 
 but the fituation is pleafant and healthy, and there are many 
 good inns in the place for the accommodation of travellers, ic 
 being on the great north road to Coventry, Birmingham, 
 Chefter, Nottingham, Derby, &c. There were befides the 
 abbey, a fmall .nunnery in this town, with feveral chapels and 
 chantries 5 but they are all entirely demolifhed. — The late 
 Dutchefs of Marlborough built a fine houfe in the neigh- 
 bourhood of this town, which now belongs to her great great 
 grandfon, the prefent Earl Spencer. She likewife built fome 
 good alms-houfes, and a cbarky-fchool for children. 
 
 The town is a particular diftrifit of itfelf, and its jurifdic- 
 tion extends over feveral towns and parifhes, even as far as 
 Barnet. It has fent members to parliament from the earlieft 
 times, and is governed by a mayor, high-fteward, recorder, 
 twelve aldermen, and twenty-four affiftants* The weekly 
 market is on Saturday, and here are three fairs annually, viz. 
 on the 25th of March, on the 17th of June, and on the 29th 
 of September. 
 
 Hatfield is nineteen miles from London, and was for- 
 merly called Si/hop's Hatfield, from its belonging to the 
 Bifhops of Ely. Here was once a royal palace, from whence 
 both Edward the Six:h and Queen Elizabeth were conducted 
 to the throne* It is a place of great antiquity ; for it appears 
 from our hiftorians, that an ecciefiafHcal iynod was held here 
 in the year 68i« The church is a venerable Gothic ftrudture, 
 built in the form of a crofs $ and at the end of the chance] is 
 an ancient chapel. On the weft end is a tower,and in it a ring 
 of fhe large bells. There are many curious monuments in 
 thischurch, and the living is reckoned one of the richeft in 
 England. The town does not contain any remarkable build- 
 ings, nor is it very populous 5 but here are two charity-fchools, 
 well endowed. Here is a weekly market on Thurfday, and 
 two annual fairs, one on the 23d of April, and another on 
 the 18th of O&ober, 
 
 2 U 2 Ware 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Ware is twenty-one miles diftant from London, and fltir* 
 ated in a valley on the eaft fide of the river Lea. It is faid, 
 that fome ftrolling parties of the Danes failed up this river 
 from the Thames, in fmsll open boats, and infefted this part 
 of the country* They likewife built a fort here, to fecure 
 themfelves from the army of Alfred, and for its better defence, 
 raifed the water fo high, by a great dam, or, as they called ft f 
 a Weare y that it was with great difficulty the Englifh could 
 difledge them. And from this circumftance we are told the 
 town received its name. This place is a confiderable tho- 
 roughfare, being one of thebeft poft-towns in the north road. 
 Ware was founded in the year 914, and began to beof fome 
 note in the reign of King John, when the high road to the 
 north, which before went through Hertford, was by procure- 
 ment of Sayer de Quincy, then lord of the manor, turned 
 through this town. It cprrfijfs of one ftreet, about a mile in 
 Jength, with feveral back ftreets and lanes, well inhabited* 
 The church is large, built in the form of acrofs,and has a 
 handfome gallery, creeled by the governors of Chrift's Hof* 
 pital in London, who fend feveral of the children of that 
 hofpitai hither, either for health or education. Befides a cha- 
 rity-fchool, here are feven aims-houfes, well endowed. At 
 the Bull inn, in this town, there is a famous bed, much vifited 
 by travellers from London and other places $ it is faid to be 
 twelve feet fquare, and capable of containing twenty couple. 
 This town is a great market for corn and malt ; five thoufand 
 quarters of malt are often fent ina weektoLoridon bythebarges, 
 which generally return with coals. The market is on Tuef- 
 day, and here are two fairs held, one on the laftTuefday in 
 April, and the other on the Tuefday before St, Matthew's 
 day. 
 
 Hoddesdon is a confiderable town, feventeen miles from 
 London. It is a confiderable thoroughfare, and a place of 
 great antiquity, and is a good market for all forts of corn. 
 Queen Elizabeth, by a charter, granted a grammar-fchool to 
 this town, and endowed it with certain privileges ; and an 
 alms-hcufe was founded here in the reign of King Henry the 
 Sixth, by Richard Rich, flieriff of London, and anceftor to 
 the late Earls of Warwick. Here are the ruins of an ancient 
 chapel : but by whom it was built does not appear, only thas 
 it belonged to an hofpitai for leprous perfons, which is now 
 
 totally 
 
HE RTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 totally demoliflied^ The weekly market i« held on Thurfday, 
 and here is a fair for toys on the 29th of July, 
 
 Rickmanswcrth is nineteen miles from London. It is 
 fituated in alow moorifli foil on the borders of Buckingham- 
 ihire, near the river Coin, It has a market on Saturday, and 
 is governed by a conftabfe and two headboroughs. Thefe- 
 veral mills on the fiieams near this town, caufe a great quan- 
 tity of wheat to be brought to it, Here is a charicy-fchool for 
 twenty boys and ten girU, with an alms-houfe for five widows, 
 and another for four.— In the neigbourhood is a warren-hill, 
 where the found of a trumpet is repeated twelve times by 
 the echo* 
 
 Watford is fixteen miles from London, It is fituated 
 on the river Coin, where it has two firearm that run feparately 
 to Rickmanfworth. The town is very long, but confifts of 
 only one ftreet, which is extremely dirty in winter, and the 
 waters of the river a( the entrance of the town, were fre- 
 quently fo much fwelied by floods as to be impaflable ; but in 
 the year 1750 the road at the entrance of Watford was raifed 
 by a voluntary contribution, by which means the river is now 
 confined within its proper bounds. In the church are feveral 
 handfome monuments; there are alfo a free-fchool and feve- 
 ral alms-houfes belonging to the town. 
 
 Barnet, which is eleven miles from London, is fometimes 
 called High Barnet, from its fituation on a hill ; and was alfo 
 formerly called Chipping or Cheaping Barnet \ from King Henry 
 the Second's granting the monks of Sc. Alban*s the privilege 
 of holding a market here, the word Cheap or Chepe 9 being an 
 ancient word for a market. It is at prefent a great thorough- 
 fare, being fituated in the road to St. Alban's, and the firft 
 ftageon the great north road. It has feveral good inns, with 
 a great number of public houfes ; and many considerable far- 
 mers live in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The town islong,and the church, which ftands in the middle 
 of it, is a very ancient ftruciure. Here is a free-fchoo'j, founded 
 by Queen Elizabeth, and endowed partly by that Princefs, and 
 partly by Alderman Owen, of London, whofe additional en- 
 dowment is paid by trie Fifhmongers Company* Here is alfo 
 an alms-houfe, founded and endowed by James Ravenfcroft, 
 jkfq; for fix widows* But what Barnet is moft noted for at 
 
 prefent 
 
342 HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 prefent is its races in the month of Auguft, which laft three 
 days, and are frequented by a great number of all ranks of 
 people from London. The weekly market at Barnet is on 
 Monday, and it has two annual fairs, each of which holds 
 three days j the firft is on the 8th, gth, and ioth of April; 
 and the fecond on the 4th, 5th, and 6th, of September, for 
 Welch and Scotch cattle. 
 
 Barnet is famous for being the place where the decifive 
 battle was fought between thehoufes of York and Lancafter, 
 on Eafter-day, 1471, in which the great Earl of Warwick, 
 ftilcd The King-maker^ was flain, with many others of the 
 principal nobility. The place fuppofed to be the field of bat* 
 tie, is a green fpot, a little before the meeting of St. Al ban's 
 and Hatfield roads; and here, in the year 174.0, an obeli (k 
 was eredted by Sir Jeremy Sambrooke, on which is the fol* 
 lowing infcription : 
 
 " Here was 
 " Fought the 
 " Famous Battle 
 , . • " Between Edward 
 . • . ' the Ath-,.and tbe. ./ ^ . . 
 .JLarl of W A R w i^q Ky , 
 << April the 14th, 
 
 " Anno 1471, 
 " In which the Earl 
 " Was defeated 
 «* Andflain." 
 
 Tring is thirty-one miles from London, and is fuuated 
 at the weftern extremity of the county, where it joins with 
 Buckinghamfhire. It is a place of confiderable antiquity, as 
 appears from Doomfday book, wherein it is mentioned as a 
 royal demefne, and as fuch it was given by William the Nor- 
 man to his favourite, Robert Earl of Ewe. The town, though 
 fmall, is extremely neat, with fome very handfome houfes 
 in it; and the church is a venerable Gothic flrudure,the infide 
 of which has been neatly wainfcotted, at the expence of Mr. 
 Gore. This gentleman, who is lord of the manor, has en* 
 clofed a park, near the town, containing three hundred acres 
 of land, and in it a fine plantation of trees, refembling a wood* 
 Here is a charity fchool for teaching and cloathing twenty boys^ 
 fupported by fubfcription. At a village called LittUYring* iu 
 
 tbi$ 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 343 
 
 + this parifh, rifes one of the heads of the river Thames. Tring 
 is a confiderable market for corn, of which there are here very 
 lar^e granaries. 
 
 In 1751, John Ofborne, and his wife Ruth, both poor aged 
 people, were dragged to a deep pond near this town, and there 
 ducked, by a large mob aflembled for that purpofe, who had ig- 
 norantly fuppofed that this couple were a witch and wizzard. 
 They ftripped them both naked, tied their thumbs and great 
 toes together, and in that manner threw them three different 
 times into the pond ; but the poor woman, who was feventy 
 years of age, died in the water. They then took John Ofborne 
 to a neighbouring houfe, where they laid him in a bed, and the 
 body of his murdered wife befide him, after which they difperfed 
 to their own homes. But Thomas Coiley, the ringleader of 
 the mob was afterwards apprehended, and tried for murder at 
 Hertford* He was found guilty, and executed at Tring, his 
 body being hung in chains* 
 
 Berkhamsted is twenty-feven miles from London. It was 
 anciently a Roman town, and Roman coins have often been dug 
 up here. Some of the Saxon kings kept their courts, and held 
 their great councils at this place. William the Norman fwore 
 here to the Englifh nobility, that he would preferve the laws 
 made by his predeceffors. Robert de Morton, Earl of Corn- 
 wall, built a caftleon the north fide of this, town, the remains 
 of which are converted into a gentleman's feat. 
 
 Henry the Second kept his court here, and granted the town 
 feveral privileges, particularly that its merchandize fhould pafs 
 free of toll or cuftom through England, Normandy, Aquitain, 
 and Anjou, and that no judicial procefs fhould be executed by 
 any of the King's officers, within its liberties, but only by its 
 own high fteward, coroner, and bailiffs ; that no market fhould 
 be kept within feven miles of it, and that the inhabitants (hould 
 not be obliged to attend at any affizes or feffions. In the reign 
 of Henry the Third it was a borough, and in the fourteenth of 
 King Edward the Third fent members to parliament. There 
 are no lefs than fifty-three townfhips belonging to the manor, 
 which derives its name from the town, which are obliged to pay 
 homage, and chufe conftables here. Of thefe townfhips there 
 are eleven in this county, fifteen in Buckinghamshire, and twen- 
 ty-feven in Northamptonfhire. King James the Firft, to 
 whole children this place was a nurfery, made it a corporation. 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 by the name of bailiffs and burgefles of Berkhamftead St. Pe-* 
 ter; the burgefles to be twelve, to chufe a recorder and town- 
 clerk, and to have a prifon : but the corporation was fo impo- 
 verished by the civil wars in the next reign, that the govern- 
 ment dropped, and has not fince been renewed. 
 
 The fituation of Berkhamftead is extremely pleafing, being 
 built on the fide of a hill, chiefly confifting of a good ftreet of 
 confiderable length. The church is a fpacious Gothic edifice, 
 dedicated to St. Peter, and has many chapels and oratories, where 
 mafs ufed to be faid in the times of Popery. On the pillars of 
 the church are eleven of the apoftles, and over each of them a 
 fentence of the creed ; and on the twelfth pillar is St. George 
 killing the dragon. Here is an alms-houfe built by Mr. Joha 
 Sayre and his wife, who endowed it with 1300I. for the mainte- 
 nance of fix poor widows. Here is alfo a charity fchool, and a 
 free grammar»fchool ; the gram mar- fchool is a handfome brick 
 ftrufture, and is well endowed, the King being patron, and 
 the warden of All Souls College in Oxford, vifitor. 
 
 Hempsted is r our miles from Berkhamftead, and twenty- 
 three from London. It was incorporated by King Henry the 
 Eighth. It is governed by a bailiff", and the inhabitants are 
 empowered to have a common feal, and a pye powder court, du«* 
 ring its markets and fairs. It is pleafantly fituated on a fmall 
 river, called The Gade, and furrounded with hills. The 
 church, which ftands at a little diftancefrom the town, is an an- 
 cient Gothic flrufture, with a fqu a re tower, and a fine fy ire. 
 The market here is the greateft in Hertfordfhire for wheat; 
 and twenty thoufand pounds is faid to be often returned 
 weekly for meal. There are eleven mills (land within four 
 miles of the place, which bring a great trade to it. 
 
 Stevenage is a fmall but ancient market-town fituated 
 in the great north road, at the diftance of thirty-one miles 
 from London. The church was built upon a dry fandy hill 5 
 the houfes in the town are but indifferent; but there is a good 
 free-(chool, with an ancient hofpital, and feveral alms-houfes. 
 
 A little to the fouth of this town are the remains of an old 
 camp, by fome iuppofed to have been made by the Romans, 
 although others have afcribed it to the Danes ; and there is a 
 place near it itill known by the name of Danes End* 
 
 Standon 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Stakdon is a fmall town on the river Rib, twenty-kven 
 miles from London. It has an handfome church, and feveral 
 endowments for a fchool and for the poor. 
 
 Bishop's Stortford is thirty miles from London, and thir- 
 teen from Stevenage. It derives its name from a fo d over the ri- 
 ver Stort, at the bottom of the town, which, ever finee the t me 
 of William theNorman, has belonged to thefiiihops cf Lone on. 
 King John made this a corporation town, with power to chufe 
 its own offieers,and it formerly fent members to parliament, but 
 has long ago loft that privilege, The Bifhop of London ap- 
 points a bailiff here for what is called his liberty, and to him are 
 directed iheriff's warrants to be executed in this and ftveral of 
 the neighbouring parifties. Thebiihop holds hi* court leet and 
 baron at the manor of Padmore, at the north end of the town. 
 
 This is a confiderable, well-built place, full of good inns^ 
 being a thoroughfare to Cambridge, Newmarket, and feveral 
 towns in Suffolk. It confifts of four ftreets, in the form of a 
 crofs, pointing eaft, weft, north, and fourh. It has a church, 
 which ftands on a hill, in the middle of the town, with an 
 handfome tower, a fine ring of eight bells, and a fpire, covered 
 With lead, fifty feet high* This church had an organ as long 
 ago as the time of Henry the Seventh, and is thought to be very 
 ancient, becaufe in one of the windows were the names and 
 pictures of King Athelftan, St. Edward, and King Edward. 
 Here are two alms-houfes and a grammar-fchool ; the fchool 
 was built about half a century ago, by the contributions of the 
 gentry both of this county and Lffex. It ftands in the high 
 ftreet, upon arches, underwhich are ftiops and a market ; it 
 fronts the church-yard, and confifts of three rooms, which, 
 with the ftair-cafe, make a fquare building ; the front to the 
 ftreet is the grammar-fchool, and the two wings are the writing- 
 fchool and library, to which every fcholar, when he leaves the 
 fchool, gives a book. 
 
 Buntingford is a fmall town, fituated at the ford of a fmall 
 xiver called The Rib, in the poit road to Cambridge, at thediitance 
 of thirty-cne miies from London* It ftands in four parrihes, in 
 one of which, called Layfton, is a chapelry. The chapel is an 
 handfome brick ftru£lure,rini(hed in 1626. Here is afumptuous 
 alms-houfe, founded and endowed by Dr. Seth Waid, bjihop 
 of Salifbury, for four ancient men, and as many ancient wo- 
 
 Vol* I. 2 X men, 
 
346 HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 men, who, from a ftafe of afHuence, were reduced by misfor- 
 tunes to poverty. Each man and each woman has an apartment 
 confiding of four rooms, two above and two below, with every 
 convenience that can be reafonably wiflied for or expsiled. An 
 eftate was alfoleft for their fupport, by the fame prelate. There 
 is a free grarnmar-fchool in this town, wherein Bifhop Ward 
 was educated, he being a native of this place ; he gave four 
 fcholarfhips, of twelve pounds a year, to Chrift's Colleg?, in 
 Cambridge, to be enjoyed by four fcholars, natives of Here* 
 fordfhire, who were educated at this fchool, till they were 
 matters of arts* 
 
 Barkway is a flourifhing and populous town, at'the dif- 
 tance of thirty-five miles from London, and being a confidera- 
 ble thoroughfare in the north road, contains fome good inns. 
 The church in this town is an handfome Gothic ftru£iure,and 
 fevera! of the windows in it are painted ; and in one of them is 
 an abfurd and fuperftitious reprefentation of the Deity creating 
 the world, which is adifgrace to aProteftant church* 
 
 Baldock istbirty-feven miles from London, and ftands be- 
 tween two hills, in a chalky foil, fit for corn* It is a pretty 
 large town, and in the middle of it is an handfome church, 
 with three chancels, and a beautiful tower. Among other be- 
 nefactions to the poor of the place, Mr. John Winne gave 
 li,OOoI. to build fix alms-houfes, and to purchafe lands to 
 raife an annuity of forty (hillings a piece to every poor perfon 
 fettled in thsm. Here are many maltfters, and the market of 
 this town is very confiderable both for corn and malt, 
 
 Hitching is one of the bell built and moft populous towns 
 in this county. It {lands in a pleafant valley at the dif- 
 fance of thirty-four miles from London ; and is governed by 
 a bailiff and four comtabies, two for the town, and two for the 
 out-parts. It is divided into the three wards of Bencroft, 
 Bridge, and Tilt-houfe. It is faid to have been formerly one 
 of the greateft places of inland trade in England, and many 
 merchants both from France and Flanders refided here to pur- 
 chafe our commodities, and to difpofe of their own. Hereisan 
 handfome church, 153 feet long and 67 broad, with three 
 chancels. Here is a free fchool, a charity fchov;!, and eight 
 alms-houfes. Large quantities of malt are made in this town, 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 347 
 
 and it is a great market for all forts of grain. There is a 
 meeting here for Proteftant DilTenters. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Near Kickmanfworth, on the left, is Moor Parky which 
 was the feat of Lord Anfon, buc at preTent belongs to Sir 
 Thomas Dundas, Baronet. The park is not Jarge, but is 
 very beautiful, whether we confident within itfeif, or with re- 
 gard to the line and extenfive profpe&s from it. The houfe 
 was originally built by Cardinal Wolfey, and paffing through 
 many hands, was afterwards in the poficffion of the Duke of 
 Monmouth, Then it came into the hands of Mr. Stiles, 
 who enlarged, repaired, and beautified ir, under the direction 
 of Sir James Thornhill. It (lands on a hill, not quite on 
 the furnmit. It is of ftone, of the Corinthian order ; and, if 
 not in the higheft ftileof architecture, is yet very noble. The 
 fouth, or principal front, has a portico and pediment of 
 four columns. The offices are joined to the houfe by a beau- 
 tiful circular colonade of the Ionic order, which terminates 
 very elegantly with domes on each fide their entrance, Oa 
 the back front of the houfe is a lawn of about thirty acres, 
 abfolutely flat ; with falls below it on one hand, and heights 
 above it on the other. The rifmg ground is divided into 
 three great parts, each fo difiindt, and io different, as to have 
 the effedl of feveral hills. That neareft to the houfe (helves 
 gently under an open grove of noble trees, which hang oa 
 the declivity , and advance beyond it on the plain* Trie next 
 is a large hill, preffing forward, and covered with wood from 
 the top to the bottom. The third is a bold iteep, with a 
 thicket falling down the fteepeft part, which makes it appear 
 ftill more precipitate; but the reft of the flope is bare, only 
 the brow is crowned with wood, and towards the bottom is a 
 little group of trees. Thefe heights, thus charadierifed in 
 themfelves, are further diftinguifhed by their appendages. 
 The fmali compact group near the foot, but ftili on the 
 defcent of the further hill, is contrafted by a large ftrag- 
 gling clump, fome way out upon the lawn, before the mid- 
 dle eminence. Between this and the hrft hill, under two 
 or three trees which crofs the opening, is ieen to great ad- 
 vantage a winding glade, which rifes beyond them, and marks 
 2X2 the 
 
343 HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 the feparation. This deep recefs, the different diftances to 
 which the hills advance, the contraft in their forms, and their 
 accompaniment?, calt the plain on this fide into the mod 
 beautiful figure. The other fide and the end were originally 
 the flat edge of a defcenr, a ha;ih, offenfive termination ; but 
 it is now broken by feveral hillocks, not diminutive in fize, 
 and confiderable by the fine clumps which diflin^uiih them. 
 They recede one beyond another, and the outline waves agree-* 
 ably amongft them. They do more than conceal the fharp- 
 nefs of the edge ; they convert a deformity into a beauty, and 
 greatly contribute to the embellishment of this moft lovely 
 fcene ; a fcene, however, in which the flat is principal j and 
 yet a more varied, a more beautiful landscape, can hardly be 
 defired in a garden. 
 
 The palace of Theobalds, (fituated in the village of Theo^ 
 ba!da) in which King James the Fid! much delighted, now 
 belongs to the Duke of Portland, who lets it out in tenements. 
 This palace, which was very magnificent, was originally 
 built by the great Lord Burleigh ; and Hentzner, who has 
 given a description of it in his Itlnerarium, fays, that the 
 gallery was painted with the genealogy of the Kings of Eng- 
 iand, and from thence was a defcent into the garden, which 
 was encompafied with a ditch filled with water, and large 
 enough to have the pleafure of rowing in a boat between the 
 fhrubb. It was adorned with a great variety of trees and 
 plants, labyrinths made wich much labour, a y>r d'eau, with 
 its bafoa of white marble, and with columns and pyramids. 
 In the fummer-houje, the lower part of which was built fe- 
 rnicircula? ly, were the twelve Roman Emperors in white 
 marble, and a table of touchftone : the upper part of it was 
 fee round with ieaden cifterns, into which water was conveyed 
 through pipes. 
 
 This feat the Lord Burleigh gave to his younger fon Sir 
 a- . \ Cecil, in whofe tim * King James the Firft flaying 
 - for one night's refreshment, as he was coming to take 
 * -ffion of the crown of England, he was fo delighted with 
 the place that he gave him the manor of Hatfield Regis 
 in excha it, and afterwards enlarged the park, and en- 
 
 compafied a with a wall ten miles round. The palace he 
 often yifited, in order to enjoy the pleafure of hunting in 
 neid Chace and Epping Foreft, and at laft died there. 
 
>" 
 
 HERTFORDSHIRE* 349 
 
 In the civil wars it was however plundered and defaced, it 
 being the place from whence King Charles theFirft fet out to 
 ere£t hisftandard at Nottingham,. King Charles the Second 
 granted the manor to George Monk, Duke of Albemarle j but 
 it reverting again to the crown, ror wan: of hejrs male. King 
 William the Third gave it to William Bentinck, whom he 
 created Earl of Portland, from whom it dekendzd to the 
 Duke hisgrandfon. The great park, a part of which was in 
 Hertfordshire, and a part in Middlefex, is now converted into 
 farms. 
 
 Cajhiobury Park is a little beyond Watford, on the left, and 
 is faid to have been the feat of the Kings of Mercia during 
 the Heptarchy, till Qr?a gave it to the monaftery of St. 
 Albans, Henry the Eighth beftowed it on Ricnard Mori- 
 ion, Efq; from whom it pafled to Arthur Lord Cipei, Baron of 
 Hadham, and from him came by inheritance to be the manor 
 of the Earls of Eflex, who have here anobie feat in the form 
 of the letter H, with a large park, adorned with hne woods 
 and walks. The gardens were planted and laid out by Le 
 Notre, in the reign of King Cftarles the Second. The 
 front and one fide are of brick^ and modern ; the other lide 
 is>¥ery old, and by no means correfponding with the other 
 pans of the houfe. In the front of the houfe is a fine dry- 
 lawn, which, immediately after the heavieii rams, may be rode 
 or walked on as on the drieit downs \ and a httie below the 
 houfe is a river, which winds through the park, and in the 
 drieft feafons conftantly runs with a fine {{ream, affording 
 plenty of trout, cray-fifh, and other kinds of freih water fiftu 
 The woods have many large beech and oak trees in them, but 
 the principal walks are planted with lime trees, 
 
 Gorhamlury^ a little to the weft of St. Alban's, was for- 
 merly tne paternal eftate or the great Lord Bacon, concerning 
 whom we have lately fpoken, and is now the feat of the Lord 
 Vifcount Grimlton. There is here a itatue of Henry the 
 Eighth, with a collection of pictures worthy a traveller's cu- 
 rioiity. ' 
 
 The Earl of Salifbury has a noble feat near Hatfield, built 
 by the great Lord Burleigh, called Hatfield Houje. The park 
 and gardens>in which is a vineyard,is watered by the rives: Lea. 
 
 Gawky 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Cazvley Wood y belonging to the Dake of Bridge water, is a 
 fmail covert, about a mile from Litcle Gaddefden, It {lands 
 on the top of a hill, and is one of the greateft landmarks in the 
 fouth of England, overlooking eleven counties. It ftands as 
 a monument to fhow that nature will not be outdone by art. 
 
 About a mile north-weft from Barnet is Derehams t which 
 was the feat of the late Earl of Albemarle. 
 
 Penley Lodge is a delightful retirement to a man who wants 
 to deceive lite, in an habitation which has all the charms na- 
 ture can give. Behind is a large common of fine turf, 
 bounded by a wood on the weft, which commands a view of 
 Northamptonfhire and Warwickfhire, From the houfe is a 
 femi circular profpedt of Bedfordfhire, Middlefex, and Buck- 
 inghamfhire, and a bended one towards Ivingo and Aldbury 
 cliffs, with the fbady woods of Leeds and Bridge water Teem- 
 ing to hang over the rivulet called Bulborn* 
 
 The village of Hunfdon^vfWxch is fituated on the river Stort, 
 was fo much efhemed in former times for its healthy fituation, 
 that King Henry the Eighth eredled a houfe here, to which 
 he often reforted, and in which he had his children brought 
 up. It ftands on a high hill, from whence there is a mod 
 delightful profpedt ; and underneath are meadows, with the 
 river winding in the moft agreeable manner. Near it is the 
 houfe where the royal children received their education, which 
 is now the feat of a private gentleman. The gardens are laid 
 out with great tafte, and there is a large bafon^ from whence 
 water is conveyed to the different plantations in the gardens. ; 
 
 Eljlree, Idle/tree^ or Eaglejiree (for it has been called by all 
 thefe names), a village near Barrier, upon the borders of Mid- 
 dlefex, is thought by Norden to have been the ftationof 
 Sulloniacae, mentioned by Antoninus in his Itinerary, as at the 
 diftanceof twelve miles from London; but Mr. Camden and 
 Biftiop Gibfon think it was at Brockley Hill, in this neigh- 
 bourhood, many coins, urns, Roman bricks, and other anti- 
 quities, having been dug up there. 
 
 Totteridge has been adorned with fine feats belonging to 
 the citizens of London, from the time of King James the 
 
 Firft. 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Firfr. The Saxons gave it the name from its fituation on the 
 top of a hillt There was anciently a monaftery here. 
 
 Chejhunt\% a very agreeable village fourteen miles from Lon- 
 don, and many of the citizens have their country feats here. 
 The Ermine-ftreet, or Roman military way, pafiis near ir, 
 and in a ftVld to the north-weft are the remains of a 'irong 
 camp. It is raifed in an oblong form with deep ditches, but 
 mod of them are now filled up* There w.:s formerly a Bene- 
 didline nunnery here, dedicated to the Virgin Mary ; and 
 Edward the Third gave this village the privilege of keeping a 
 weekly market, but it is now difconcinued. 
 
 Theobalds is a mod pleafant village, near Chefhunt, wherein 
 are many fine feats belonging to the citizens of London, — In 
 this neighbourhood Richard Cromwell, who had been Protec- 
 tor, but abdicated, paffed the laft part of his life, in a very pri- 
 vate manner. 
 
 Near Ware is a fpot of ground called Lemon Fields where 
 three Roman wine veffels were dug up in 1729. Theib veffels 
 were of a pale reddifh earth, and of the form of the Roman 
 amphora, with two handles, and pointed at the bottom, for 
 the purpofe of fixing them in the ground. They were 
 eighteen irixhes below the furface, and full of earth and chalk- 
 ftones of the neighbouring foil. Many human bodies have 
 been dug up hereabouts, but tnough thtr ground around them 
 is black, they appear not 10 have been burnt, and feern by their 
 fhallow burial, to have been the relics of a battle. 
 
 On the fouth of Ware is the village of Amwell^ where the 
 New River takes its rife. 
 
 About four miles from Hernpfted is Kings Langley % which 
 is a large and pleafant village, where King ndward the Third 
 built a fine palace, wherein he often refided, of which fome 
 part frill remains. And here his fifth fon lid mund, commonly 
 called De Langley, was born 3 and this prince, with his 
 wife Ifabei, daughter of Don Pedro, King of Caftile, lies 
 buried in this church, which is a venerableGothic ftruClure. 
 
35* 
 
 HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 Abbot's Langley is another agreeable village in the neighbour- 
 hood of Hempfted, which belonged to the abbey of Sr, Albans. 
 The church is an handfome edifice, fituated in the middle of 
 the village, and at the weft end is a fine tower a This was the 
 birth place of Nicholas Breakefpeare, who was elected Pope 
 under the name of Adrian the Fourth. 
 
 Redbumelsz village cn the high road leading to Dunfta«» 
 ble, which contains many handfome houfes, and fevera! good 
 inns; for being a great thoroughfare, the waggons from Bir- 
 mingham. Sbrewfbury, Wolverhampton, and many other 
 places, put up at it the night before they reach London. It is 
 an agreeable place, and was formerly muchfrequented by de- 
 votees, on account of the pretended relics of Amphibalus, a 
 martyr, who isfaid to have preached the gofpel here in the third 
 century. 
 
 Flam/lead, on the left hand of the road, about four miles be- 
 yond Redburne, was formerly a market town, and had feve- 
 ral fairs ; but they are difcc nnnued. The church is a vene- 
 rable Gothic ftru&urc, fituate on a hill, with a fquare tower 
 and a lofty fpire, which are feen at a great diftance. The 
 church has three ifles, and in them are feveral ancient monu- 
 ments. 
 
 The village of Braughing, which is at a little diftance from 
 Buntingford, was confidercd as a place of great importance 
 when the Romans were in Britain ; and by many is iuppofed 
 to be the Cafieroniagum of Antoninus. There are near it 
 the ruins of a Roman camp, which appears to have been 
 ftrongly fortified, and many coins have been dug up near it. 
 The church in this village is a very handfome edifice. Near 
 the church -yard is an old houfe, at prefent inhabited by poor 
 families, but which was originally defigned for a very different 
 purpofe. Some centuries ago, a perfon of fortune, whofe 
 name is not at prefent known, built this houfe, and en- 
 dowed it with a fufficicnt falary to defray the expences attend- 
 ing the weddings of the poorer fort of people in the parifli. 
 It contained all forts of neceffary furniture, with a large 
 kitchen, a cauldron for boiling meat, and fpits for what they 
 intended to roafh Here was alfo a large room for merrimenr, 
 
 a lodging-room, 
 
HERTFORDSHIRE. 
 
 a lodging-room with a bride-bed and good linen \ fome of 
 which furniture was in being a few years ago. 
 
 The village of Hexton^ near Hitching, is remarkable for a 
 bloody battle fought between the Saxons and Danes, wherein 
 it is fuppofed fome perfons of confiderable note were flain, be- 
 caufe there are feveral funeral monuments near the place. 
 There is alfo at a little diftance from hence a very ftrong 
 camp, which is conjedtured to have been thrown up by the 
 Dajies, to defend themfelves in cafe of their being defeated, 
 until they received frefti fuccours from their countrymen. It 
 is raifed in an oblong manner, and fo flrongly fortified both 
 by nature and art, that a thoufand men might defend tlieni* 
 felves in it againfl: a confiderable army. 
 
 A little to the fouth of Hexton is a fine piece of ground, 
 called Liliho) on a rifing ground, where horfe-races are held, 
 and from whence there is an extenfive and beautiful profpeft* 
 
 MS 
 
 Vol. L 
 
 Z Y HUNTING. 
 
HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 
 
 '*T*HIS is one of the leafi: counties in England, and is 
 X bounded on the north and weft fides by Northampton- 
 jfhire, cn theeaft by Cambridgefhire,and on the fouth byBed^ 
 fordfhire, It is about twenty-five miles in length, twenty in 
 breadth, and feventy in circumference ; contains fix market- 
 towns, feventy-nine parifhes, two hundred and feventy-nine 
 villages, and about two hundred and forty thoufand acres. 
 When the Romans invaded Britain, this county was a part 
 of the diflri<5l inhabited by thofe warlike people, named The 
 Iceni ; but when the Saxons fettled in the ifland, it became, 
 with fome other counties, part of the kingdom of Eaft An- 
 glia ; and from thofe people it is fuppofed to have derived its 
 prefent name. 
 
 The air of this county is rendered lefs wholefome than that 
 of fome other counties, by the grear number of fens, meers, 
 and other ftanding waters, with which it abounds, efpecially 
 in the north part. The foil is in general very fruitful. In 
 the hilly part?, or dry lands, it yields great crops of corn, and 
 affords excellent pafture forfheep; and in the lower lands the 
 meadows are exceedingly rich, and feed abundance of fine 
 cattle, not only for Slaughter, but for the dairy; and the 
 cheefe made at a village called Stilton^ near Yaxley, known by 
 the name of Stilton Cheeje^ is ufually filled The Parmefan of 
 England* 
 
 The inhabitants of Huntingdonfliire are well fupplied with 
 fifh and water-fowl, by the rivers and meers i but they have 
 fcarcely any firing befides turf. 
 
 The chief rivers in this county are the Oufe and the Men.— • 
 The Oufe rifes near Brackiey in Northamptonfliire, and run- 
 ning north*eaft through Becifordfhire, enters this county at 
 St. Neot's ; from thence, in the fame direction, it runs by 
 Huntingdon, and fome other towns, and traverfing Huming- 
 donfliire, Cambridgefhire, and Norfolk, and being joined by 
 
 feveral 
 
HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 
 
 355 
 
 fevenal other rivers in its courfe, it falls into the German 
 Ocean near Lynn Regis. — The Nen rifes near Daventry, and 
 running north-eaft, and almoft parallel to the river Oufe, 
 winds rounds the north-weft and north boundaries of this 
 county, where it forms feveral large bodies of water, called by 
 the inhabitants Meers. The firft of thefe meers or lakes is 
 that called Whittlejey Meer^ not far from Petei borough. This 
 meer is no lefs than fix miles long, and three broad. Other 
 confiderable meers formed hereby this river, are Ug Meer, 
 Brick Meer, Ramiey Meer, and Benwick Meer, from whence: 
 the river Nen, continuing its courfe through Cambridge- 
 fhire and Lincolnihire, falls into the German Ocean not far 
 from Wi (beach, in the county of Cambridge. 
 
 This county, which lies in the province of Canterbury, 
 and diocefe of Lincoln, is divided into four -hundreds, and 
 with Cambridgefhire and the Ifle of Ely, is under one flieriff. 
 This (herifF is chofen out of each of rhefe places by rotation. 
 Huntingdonfhire fends four members to parliament, two of 
 which are for the county. 
 
 MARKET- TOWNS 
 
 Huntingdon, which is fifty-feven miles from London, 
 is the chief town of the whoie county, and gives name to it. 
 The name is immediately derived from the Saxon Hunt an- 
 dune^ or Hunter s Down y an appellation which this place ac- 
 quired from its convemency for hunting, this diftriii being 
 one entire foreft, till it was disforefted by the Kings Henry 
 the Second and Third, and finally by King Edward the Firft, 
 who left no more of it foreft than his own ground. This 
 town is incorporated by the ftyle of a mayor, twelve aldermen 
 and burgeffes. The affizes are conftantly held here twice a 
 year, and here is the county gaol. There were once fifteen 
 churches here, which in Camden's time were reduced to four, 
 and there are now but two. This place is hid to haye fuffered 
 by the villainy of one Grey, who, according to Speed, mali- 
 cioufly obftru&ed the navigation of the river Oufe to the 
 town ; but this river is ftill navigable by fmall vefiels as higli 
 as Bedford. The town ftands on a little hill that rifes on the 
 north fide of the river. It is a thoroughfare ia the great norm 
 
 2 Y 2 road, 
 
356 HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 
 
 road, and is fiiil a populous trading town. It confifts chiefly 
 of one long ftreet, pretty well built, and has an handfome 
 market-place and a good grammar- fchool. There are not 
 more beautiful meadows any where than on the banks of the 
 river hereabouts, which, in the fumrner feafon are covered with 
 fuch numerous herds of cattle, and flocks of flieep, as is al- 
 moin incredible. The bridge, or rather bridges over the river, 
 with the caufeway, are ornaments, as well as benefits to the 
 town*— Oliver Cromwell was born in the parifh of St. John 
 in this town, and educated in the free-fchool here. 
 
 St. Ives is fixty-four miles from London, and is a large 
 handfome town. It is faid to derive its name from a Perfian 
 Bifhop, who, about the year 6oo, came over to England, 
 preached the gofpel, and died at this place. It appears from 
 an old Saxon coin in The Philofopbical Tranfa£lions^ that it 
 had formerly a mint : it was alio once noted for its medicinal 
 waters. The town is pleafantiy fituated on the river Oufe, 
 over which it has an handfome (lone bridge. Here is a good 
 market for fatted cattle, brought from the north. 
 
 St. Neot's is fixty-eight miles from London, and is fo 
 called from a monaftery of the fame name, in this place, 
 which was burnt by the Danes. It is a large, well-built 
 tovvn, fituated on the river Qufe, over which there is a fine 
 {lone bridge, which makes it very commodious to the whole 
 county ; for as coals are brought to this place by water, they 
 are conveyed from hence to aii the adjacent parts. Its church 
 is a very large, ftrong, and handfome building, and the fteeple 
 is e deemed a mafter-piece in its kind, 
 
 Kimbolton is the Kinnibqntum of the Romans, and the 
 modern name is fuppofed to be only a variation of the an- 
 cient. It is fixty-four miles from London, and was formerly 
 a confiderable place, but is at prefent much decayed- The 
 fituation of the town is pleafant, but it contains fcarcely any 
 thing remarkable, except its caftle, which is ths feat of the 
 Duke of Manchefter, and of which we fhall fpeak more par- 
 ticularly hereafter. — Between Kimbolton, and Thrapfton in 
 Northamptonlhire, which towns are about eleven miles dif- 
 tanr, the country is extremely pleafant, and moft delightfully 
 fcattered with villages and churches $ fo that from one level 
 
 plainj 
 
HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 
 
 357 
 
 plain, which rifes above the furrounding country, twelve ftee- 
 ples may be feen with eafe. 
 
 Ramsey is fixty-eight miles from London, and is a very an- 
 cient town, but is now much decayed. It is every where en- 
 cornpafled with fens, except upon the weft fide, where it joins 
 with the terra firma by a caufeway, two miles long, inclofed 
 with alders, reeds, and bulrufhes, that in the fpring make a 
 beautiful appearance, to which the garden?, corn firlds, and 
 paftures adjoining, are no fmall addition. This town was for- 
 merly of great note, being proverbially called Ram fey the rich> 
 before the dillolution of a wealthy abbey, founded by Alwin, 
 Earl of the Eaft Angle.?, which flood in this place, the ab- 
 bots of which were mitred, and fat in parliament. There is 
 little now left of the abbey, except a part of the old gatehoufe, 
 and a negleded ftatue of its founder ; the keys and ragged 
 llaff in his hand denote his offices, This is reckoned a moft 
 ancient piece of Englifh fcuipture. — This town has one of 
 the beft and cheapeft markets in England for water-fowl. 
 The neighbouring meers abound with fowl and fifh, parti- 
 cularly eels and large pikes called Haked$. There is a caufe- 
 way called Kings Delf, raifed and paved at a great expence, 
 which runs ten miles from this place to Peterborough, 
 
 Yaxley is at the diftance of feventy-fix miles from Lon- 
 don, and is a fmall but well-built town, fituated in the fens, 
 with a handfome Gothic church, and a lofty fpire feen at a 
 great diftance. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Otiosities, &c. 
 
 Kimbolton Cajile^ the feat of the Duke of Manchefter, is 
 fituated clofe to the town of that name. It is a quadrangu- 
 lar building : the hall is fifty feet long by twenty-five broad, 
 and hung round with family portraits, fome of which are very 
 good. 
 
 On the right hand of the hall is the blue drawing-room, 
 thirty-five feet by twenty. Over the chimney hangs a very 
 fine picture of Prometheus, the expreffion of which is very 
 great. Between the windows are fix fmall portraits, excel- 
 lently done. 
 
353 
 
 HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 
 
 In the yellow drawing room, which is thirty-five feet by 
 twenty-two, with an handfome glafs luftre in the centre, there 
 is an admirable portrait of Lord Holland, and fome other 
 paintings. 
 
 The faloon is forty feety by twenty-feven, and is bung with 
 crimfon velvet. It has handfome pillars in two corners, and 
 the flabs are of various marbles in Mofaic. Over the chim- 
 ney is a picture of He£ior and Andromache. 
 
 The ftate bed-chamber is hung with cut velvet. The pier 
 glaffes and flab glafles came from Venice. In the clofetisa 
 Magdalen; and through the ft air- cafe is a fmall room hung 
 with very fine drawings, after Raphael, and Julio Romano. 
 
 At Hinchinbroke y near Huntingdon, the Earl of Sandwich 
 has a fine feat. In this houfe isooe bf the moft magnificent 
 rooms in England. The gardens are fine, and well kept. — 
 A nunnery was built here, and endowed, by William the 
 Norman. 
 
 About three miles from Huntingdon is Buckden Palace, 
 the epifcopal feat of the Bifhop of Lincoln. The Bifliop has 
 a pretty little chapel here, with an organ fo well painted 
 againft the wall, in a feeming organ loft, that at firft a ftranger 
 would think it to be real. 
 
 A mile out of the road at Connington, was the feat of Sir 
 Robert Cotton, the learned friend of the great Camden. 
 The houfe was built in a magnificent manner of hewn ftone, 
 but now lies in difmal ruins. By it is a beautiful church, 
 with a tower, and in the window is fine painted glafs*— 
 In this parifh are to be feen, within a fquare ditch, there- 
 licks of an ancient caftle, which was given by King Canute 
 toTurkhill, a Danifh lord, who called in Sueno, King of 
 Denmark, to plunder the nation. 
 
 Godmanchefter is a place of great antiquity, and although 
 no market-town, yet is efteemed one of the largeft villages in 
 England. The inhabitants of this place are famous for their 
 (kill in hufbandry, and it is faid that no town employs fo 
 many ploughs. When King James the Firft came through 
 it from Scotland, the inhabitants met him with feventy new 
 ones, drawn by as many teams ot horfes, for they hold their 
 
 land 
 
HUNTINGDONSHIRE. 
 
 3S9 
 
 lane? by that tenure : and we are told, that on the like occa- 
 sion there has been a proceffion of one hundred and eighty 
 ploughs. Here is a fchool called The Free Grammar -School of 
 g)ueen Elizabeth* 
 
 Between Ramfey and Whittlefey Meer, there is a ditch, 
 fometimes called Swerdes Deify and fometimes Knoufs Delf 
 but now Steeds Dike. It parts this county from Cambridge- 
 ihire, and is faid to have been occafioned by the following ac- 
 cident : As King Canute's family were paffing over Whittle- 
 fey Meer, in their way from Peterborough to Ramfey, their 
 vefTel was caft away in one of the commotions that frequently 
 happen in thefe meers, and feveral lives were loft; upon this 
 the King, to prevent the like difafters in time to come, or- 
 dered his army to mark out a ditch with their fwords and 
 fkeins, which gave occafion to the name of Swerdes Delf and 
 afterwards employed labourers, to dig, clean, and perfect this 
 undertaking. 
 
 Dornfordy a village upon the river Nen, north-weft of 
 Yaxley, was the city of Durobrivae, mentioned by Antoninus. 
 Here are many remains of a city, and a Roman portway, lead- 
 ing diredly to Huntingdon, which, near Stilton, appears with 
 a very high bank, and in an old Saxon charter is called 
 Ermin-Jlreet. Some think that the city Durobrivae flood upon 
 both fides of the river Nen, and that the little village Caller, 
 upon the other fide of the river, was part of this city, a con- 
 jecture which ancient hiftory feems to juftify. — A great num- 
 ber of Roman coins have at different times been dug up in 
 this place. 
 
 KENT. 
 
KENT. 
 
 THIS county is bounded by SufTex and the Englifh 
 channel on the fauth, by the river Thames and the 
 German fea on the north, by the fame fea on the eaft, and by 
 Surry on the weft. It is divided into five lathes, which are 
 fuhdivided into fourteen bailiwicks, and thefe again into 
 fixty-eight hundreds* jH lathe is adi'/ifion peculiar fo Kent 
 and Suffex, and confifts of two or more bailiwicks, as a bai- 
 liwick dees of two or more hundreds. Kent contains two 
 cities, and twenty-nine market-towns, one thoufand one hun- 
 dred and eighty villages, and about one million two hundred 
 and forty-eight thoufand acres. It lies in the province of 
 Canterbury, and partly in that diocefe, and partly in the dio* 
 cefe of Rochefter, and has four hundred and eight parifhes. 
 
 The county is nominally divided into three diftri#s> Eaft 
 Kent, Weft Kent, and South Kent; or Upper Kent, Middle 
 Kent, and Lower Kent. Upper Kent, or Eaft Kent, which is 
 in the north-eaft divificn,is faid to be healthy but not wealthy; 
 Lower Kent, or the fouth parts, called alfo The Weald of 
 Kenty are faid to be wealthy, but not healthy ; and Middle 
 Kent, bordering upon London and Surry, is faid to be both 
 wealthy and healthy. In general, as a great part of this 
 county lies upon the fea, the air is thick, foggy, and warm, 
 though often purified by foulh and fouth-weft winds, and the 
 fhore being generally cleaner than that of Eftex, the marfhy 
 parts of Kent do not produce fo many agues in the fame de- 
 gree as the hundreds of Eftex \ and the air in the higher parts 
 of Kent is reckoned very healthy. The foil is generally rich, 
 and fit for plough, pafture, or meadow ; and that part of the 
 county which borders upon the river Thames abounds with 
 chalk-hills, frpm whence not only the city of London and 
 parts adjacent, but even Holland and Flanders, are fupplied 
 with lime and chalk j and from thefe hills the rubbifh of the 
 chalk is carried in lighters and hoys to the coafts of Effex, 
 
 Suffolk, 
 
KENT, 361 
 
 Suffolk-, and Norfolk, where it is f id to the farmers as ma- 
 nure for their lands. 
 
 This county aiTords fame mines of iron, and in general 
 abounds with plantations of hops, fields of corn, and orchards 
 of cherries, apples, and other fruit ; it produces alfo woad 
 and madder for dyers ; and in the cliffs between Dover and 
 Folkftone there is found plenty of famphire ; hemp and Sr. 
 Foin grow here in great abundance 5 and the fouth and weft 
 parts of Kent, efpecial !y that called The JVeald^ are covered 
 with woods of oak, beech, and walnut trees, wnich afford 
 great quantities of timber for fhipping and other ufes ; here 
 are alfo many woods of birch, from which the broom-makers 
 in and about London are abundantly fupplied. The cattle 
 here of all forts are reckoned larger than they are in the 
 neighbouring counties ; and the Weald of Kent is remarkable 
 for large bullocks; here are feveral parks of faflow*deer and 
 warrens of grey rabbits ; and this county, abounding in rivers* 
 and being almoft furrounded by thefea, is well fupplied with 
 all manner of fifii, and in particular is famous for large 
 oyfters. 
 
 The chief rivers are the Med way, the Stour,and the Darent. 
 
 CITIES. 
 
 CANTERBURY is an ancient and famous city, and the 
 metropolitan fee of all England, It ftands at thediftanceof 
 fifty-fix miles from London. It is fituated in a beautiful and 
 fruitful valley, with the river Stour running through it, in 
 two clear and t ufeful ftreams. it is fuppofed to have been 
 walled in the time of King Ethelbert, about the year 600 5 
 and when the walls were repaired in 1400, they are faid to 
 have been nearly two miles in compafs. There were twenty- 
 one fmall towers on the walls, and feven gates, beiides pof- 
 terns. There are now only fix, and a great part of the wall is 
 in a ruinous ftate. The caftle is a venerable ftruclurt, and 
 was built about the time of the conqueft. It is fituated on 
 the fouth fide of the city, but is in ruins* Befides the cathe- 
 dral there are fixteen parifh churches in this city ; the whole 
 of which is divided into fix wards, which are named arter the 
 fix city gates. Here were alfo a priory, a nunnery, and three 
 religious houfes for the Auguftine, black, and grey friars. 
 The knights templars had a manfion in this city. Itlikewife 
 
 Vol. I. 2 Z contained 
 
362 
 
 KENT. 
 
 contained nine hofpitals, three of which are diflolved. Here 
 is a free- fchool and three charity fchools. 
 
 The cathedral, called ChriJPs Church , is a fine piece of 
 Gothic architecture; it is fituated in a fpacious fquare towards 
 the eaftfideof the city, and is built in the form of a crofs ; 
 about five hundred feet long, feventy-four broad, exclufive of 
 the crofs ifle, and eighty feet high. From the middle of the 
 building rifes a beautiful tower two hundred and thirty-five 
 feet high, called Bell Harry. There are many ancient monu- 
 ments in this church, fome in very good condition; among 
 which are thofe of Henry the Fourth and his Queen, built 
 A. D. 1413, and Edward the Black Prince. There was alio 
 a famous monaftery belonging to this cathedral, containing, 
 it is faid, one hundred and fifty Senediclines : the cloyfters 
 and chapter-houfe belonging to it, are on the north fide of 
 the church, and are of the fame age with the body of it. In 
 this chapter-room, in 1 171, King Henry the Second, either 
 through piety or policy, fuffered the monks to fcourge him, 
 by way of penance, on account of the murder of Thomas 
 Becket. This monaftery was difiolved in 1539 ; and there 
 are now belonging to this cathedral a dean, archdeacon, twelve 
 prebendaries, fix preachers, fix minor canons, twelve lay 
 clerks, ten chorifters, two mafters, fifty fcholars, and twelve 
 alms-men. In the windows of this fabric are fome fine re- 
 mains of painted glafs, and underneath it the French and 
 Walloon congregation have a church, which -was firft given by 
 Queen Elizabeth to the Walloons, who fled hither from the 
 [Netherlands^ to efcape the Duke of Alva's perfecution ; and 
 this congregation has fince been much increased by numbers of 
 Proteftants who were driven from France in the reign of 
 Lewi* the Fourteenth, Thefe foreign Proteftants were ex- 
 tremely ferviceable to Canterbury, by introducing here the art 
 of weaving broad filks, which has been brought to great per* 
 fedlicn. 
 
 The ruins of St. Auguftine's monaftery, or abbey, are with- 
 out Burgate, to the eaii of the city. The abbey was built by 
 Ethelbert, and given to Auguiiine, and richly endowed by the 
 donations of many Kings and Queens. At the weft end of the 
 abbey is Ethtibert'i tower, which is thought to have been 
 ufed 33 a belfry and fteeple, and to i ave been fo called from 
 a large be 1 named from that King. It was built about the 
 year 104.7, and is now much decayed. 
 
 Near 
 
KENT. 363 
 
 Near the ruins of this abbey are thofe of Pancras chapel, 
 which was an idol temple, and probably built by the Romans, 
 or foon after their time, from the Roman bricks Hill to be feen. 
 Auguftine confecrated it for Chrift-an worfhip. This abbey 
 and chapel, with its precincls, occupied a large compafs of 
 ground, which is furrotinded by a high wall, the two grand 
 entrances into which are ftill remaining. 
 
 To theeaftof this monaftery is St. Martin's church, famous 
 for its antiquity, it being built by the believing Romans, and 
 rebuilt and ufed by Bertha, Ethelbert's Queen, for Chriftian 
 worfhip, before Auguftine came into England $ and was the 
 firft place that miffionary faid mafs in, after his arrival. Bertha 
 is faid to have been buried in the porch, wiih her hufband 
 Ethelbert. There are rows of Roman brick yet to be feen 
 in it. It had a bifhop before the conqueft. 
 
 This city was formerly governed by the archbiffiop ; the 
 King had a praefedt, who poffefled but very little authority. 
 It is now governed by a mayor, recorder, a (heriff, twelve al- 
 dermen, and twenty-four common-councilmen. A court is 
 held every Monday in the guildhall, for civil and criminal 
 caufes, and every other Thurfday for the government of the 
 city. Here is a market on Wednefdays and Saturdays, and a 
 fair for toys on the 29th of September. 
 
 ROCHESTER is a very ancient city, at the diftance of 
 thirty miles from London. It is fituated on an angle of land 
 formed by the current of the river Medway, which coming 
 from the fouth, runs northward until it has paffed by the city ; 
 and then, turning, proceeds nearly to the eaft. 
 
 This city has fent members to parliament from the earliefi 
 times, and is the fee of a bilhop, and, next to Canterbury, the 
 moft ancient fee, in England. It is but a fmall city, though 
 it is fuppofed to have been walled round before the conqueft ; 
 and great part of the walls ftill remain. It is well fupplied 
 With provifions of every kind, and with plenty of fifh from 
 the Medway. The buildings are lately much improved, and 
 in feveral parts of the city are fome agreeable refidencies for 
 fmall genteel families. On Boley Hill, which is a retired and 
 pleafant fituation, is an ancient feat, which is now the pro- 
 perty of Jofeph Brooke, Efq-, wherein Queen Elizabeth was 
 entertained in 1573. Part of this houfe has been new built 
 by Mr. Brooke. And near to this, on a delightful eminence, 
 
 2 Z 2 is 
 
364 KENT. 
 
 is the residence of - — — Gordon, Efq; from many parts of 
 whofe houfe is a pleafant view of the Medway and the fur* 
 rounding, hills. This gentleman is poffefled of a colleiiion of 
 fine paintings, many of them by the firft mafters in that polite 
 art; particularly two capital drawings of Rubens, viz. the 
 crucifixion and the Pentecoft. 
 
 There are three capital and fpacious inns in this city, which 
 will vie with mod in England, as well for their good accom- 
 modations, as for their antiquity. Nearly on the fame fpot 
 where the Crown now ftands has been an inn diftinguifhed by 
 the fame fign upwards of four hundred and fifty years, it having 
 been kept by Simon Potyn, the founder of St* Catharine's 
 hofpiral, A. D< 1316. it alio appears from court rolls, that 
 on the fame fpots where the Bull and King's Head now ftand, 
 there have been houfes of public entertainment diftinguifiied 
 by the fame figns for above t h ree hundred years. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of this city are feveral very rural and 
 pleafant walks, particularly oh the banks of the Medway. 
 
 Rcchefter caftle, which is fuppofed to have been erected 
 about feven hundred years ago, is placed on a fmall eminence 
 near the river Mtdwav, juft above Rochefter bridge, and con- 
 fequently is in the fouth-weft angle of the walls of the city. It 
 is nearly of a quadrangular form, having its fides parallel whh 
 the walls of the city. It is about three hundred feet fquare 
 within the wall*, which were feven feet in thicknefs, and 
 twenty feet high, above the prefent ground, with embrafures. 
 Three fides of the caftle were furrounded with a deep broad 
 ditch, which is now nearly filled up : on the other fide runs the 
 Medway. In the angles and fides of the caftle were feveral fquare 
 towers, fome of which are ftill remaining, which were raifed 
 above the walls, and contained lower and upper apartments, 
 with embrafures on their tops. — But what chiefly attracts the 
 notice of a fpeclator, is the noble tower, which ftands in the 
 fouth-eaft angle of this caftle, and is fo lofty as to be feen dif- 
 tinclly at twenty miles diftance. It is a quadrangular in its 
 form, having its fides parallel with the walls of the caftle ; and 
 from the top of it is a very pleafing profpeft of the city and 
 adjacent towns, with their public buildings, the dock yard at 
 Chatham, the meanders of the Medway, and the furrounding 
 country. 
 
 There is an ancient ftone bridge at Rochefter over the river 
 Medway, which was erecled in the reign of King Richard the 
 Second, Sir Robert Knolles is celebrated for being the 
 
 founder 
 
KEN T. 
 
 3&S 
 
 founder of this bridge. He was diftinguilhed both for his 
 courage and military preferments, being railed by degrees from 
 the rank of a common foldier to that of a general. Heat- 
 tended Edward the Third in his fuccefsful campaigns in 
 France; and when the King's affairs declined by the ill (late 
 of health of Edward the Black Prince, Sir Robert was fenc 
 over to the continent with an army of thirty thoufond men. 
 He advanced into the heart of France'* and extended his con* 
 quefts as far as the gates of Paris. In this, and many other 
 expeditions, he acquired great riches, and returned to his 
 country laden with wealth and honour. — Lambard fays, <c Sir 
 Robert built this bridge with the fpoilg of town-, cafiles, 
 churches, monafteries, and cities, which he burnt and de- 
 firoyed ; fo that the ruins of houfes, &c. were called K nolle $*$ 
 Mitres" — This bridge, for height and ftren^th, is allowed to 
 be fuperior to any in England, excepting th? bridges at Lon- 
 don and Weftminfhr. It is above five hundred and fixty feet 
 long, and fourteen feet broad, with a ftone parapet on each, 
 fide, ftrongly coped and crowned with an iron baluftrade. It 
 has eleven arches, fupported by ftrong and fubftantial piers, 
 which are well fecured on each fide with ftarlings. The 
 river has a confiderable fall through thefj arches, — Ac the ead 
 end, and fronting the paffage over the bridge, a chapel was 
 originally erected by Sir John Cobham, who gave foaie affif- 
 tance to Sir Robert fCnolles in building the bridge ; hut a neat 
 ftone building has fince been erected on Che place where the 
 chapel flood, wherein the per ions to whom the care of the 
 bridge is entrufted hold their meetings. 
 
 A blftiopric was founded at Rocheiter, in the reign of Ethel* 
 bert King of Kent, foon after Auguftioe the monk hid landed 
 in the ifle of Thanet, and preached at Cantei bury, The 
 firft church at Rocbefter was finifhed in the year 604 ; but this 
 building having fuffered confiderably by time and the ravages 
 of foreign enemies, bifhop Gundulph rebuilt the cathedral 
 about the year 1080. It confifts of a body and two ifles, one 
 on each fide ; its extent, from the weft door to the fteps amend- 
 ing to the choir, is fifty yards, and from thence to the eafi 
 windows at the upper end of the altar fifty-two yards more, in 
 all one hundrtd and two yards, or three hundred and fix feet. 
 At the entrance of the choir is a great crofs ifle, the length of 
 which, from north to fouth, is one hundred and twenty- two 
 feet. At the upper end of the choir, between t lie bifhop's 
 throne and the high aitar 3 is another crofs ifle, which extends 
 
 from 
 
366 KEN T. 
 
 from north to fouth ninety feet. The weft front .extends 
 eighty«one feet in breadth 5 the arch of the great door is doubt- 
 lefs the fame which Gundulph built 5 and is a moft curious 
 piece of workmanfhip, every ftone being engraved with fome 
 device. It mud have been very magnificent in its original 
 ftate, its remaining beauties being fulHcient to excite the at- 
 tention of the curious. It is fupported by feveral columns 
 on each fide, two of which are carved into ftatues reprefenting 
 Gundulph's royal patrons, King Henry the Firft and his Queen 
 Matilda. The capitals of thele columns, as well as the whole 
 arch, are cut into the figures of various animals and flowers* 
 The key ftone of the arch feems to have been defigned to re- 
 prefentSt. Andrew, the apoftleand tutelar faint of the church, 
 fitting in a niche, with an angel on each fide, but the head is 
 broke off. Under the figure of St. Andrew are twelve other 
 figures, fuppofed to be defigned for the twelve apoftles, fome 
 few of which are perfeel ; but in general the whole arch is 
 much injured by time 8 — On each fide of the weft door is a 
 Square tower; that on the north fide has lately been rebuilt, 
 and has in the centre niche, on the weft front, a very ancient 
 figure, fuppofed to be theftatueof bifhop Gundulph. 
 
 A priory was founded at Rochefter about the year 600. A 
 chapter of fecular priefts was firft placed here, but tbey were 
 afterwards removed, and Gundulph, bi(hop of Rochefter, al- 
 ready fpoken of as the builder of the cathedral, eftablifhed 
 here fixty black monks. 
 
 There are fome ruins ftill regaining of the ancient chapter- 
 houfe, which fhew it to have been a building of great elegance, 
 confidering the age in which it was erected. 
 
 A fkeleton was dug up, in December, 1766 , by the work- 
 men employed in digging a new cellar for the deanery of 
 Rochefter, in an area under the old chapter houfe, or fecreta- 
 rium of the priory. This fkeleton was full feven feet in 
 length, and the fkull very entire, with fine teeth quite firm ia 
 the jaws. 
 
 The town hall of R.ochefter is an handfome brick ftru&ure, 
 fupported by ccupkd columns of ftone, in the Doric order* 
 At the upper end of the hall are original poitraics of King 
 William the Third and Queen Anne, by Sir Godfrey Kneller. 
 Here are alfo portraits of Sir Cloudefley Shovel, Sir John 
 Leake, and other perfons of note, well executed, by eminent 
 mailers* — The clock-houfe, which is a neat building, was 
 
 e reded 
 
K E N T. 367 
 
 erected by Sir Cloudefley Shovel, who reprcfented this city in 
 four parliaments. 
 
 Rochefter is governed by a mayor, eleven aldermen, and 
 twelve common-councilmen. 
 
 Sir Jofeph Williarnfon, who was one of the plenipotenti- 
 aries at the treaties of Nirnegisen and of Ryfwick, and who 
 was one of the reprefentatives for this city, founded a mathe- 
 matical fchool here. There is alfo a graoimar-fchool here, 
 called The King's School^ confiding of twenty fcholars oa the 
 royal foundation, who have their education free, and each nine 
 (hillings and four-pence per quarter* They wear furplices, 
 and, with the chorifters, are always obliged to attend divine 
 fervice at the cathedral, 
 
 A market is kept in this city on Fridays, and two annual 
 fairs are held here, one on the 30th of May, and the other oa 
 the 1 1 th of December. 
 
 There is in the river Medway, at Rochefler, and in feverai 
 of its creeks and branches within the jurifdidtion of the city, 
 an oyfter-fUhery, which is free to every one who has ferved 
 feven years apprenticefhip to any fiilierman or dredger, who is 
 free of the faid fifhery ; and the mayor and citizens of Ro- 
 chefter hold a court once a year, or oftener when occafion re- 
 quires it. for the regulation of this fifhery, and to prevent 
 abufes in it« 
 
 Rochefter, Stroud, and Chatham, though they are three 
 diftin£t places, yet are fo contiguous, as to appear in a manner 
 butonecity; and thefe three towns form a continued ftreeC 
 extending above two miles in length. Stroud is feparated from 
 Rocheder only by the bridge. There is an hofpitai here 
 for fick and lame foldiers; and an annual fair is held here oa 
 the 26th of Auguft. 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Greenwich, which is chiefly famous for its fine hofpitai 
 and park, is faid to contain upwards of one thoufand three 
 hundred houfes. Its pariih church, which was rebuilt by the 
 commiffioners for erecting the fifty new churches, is a very 
 handfome ftru&ure, dedicated to St, Alphage, Archbifhop of 
 Canterbury, who is faid to have been fiain by the Danes in 
 
 the 
 
3 68 
 
 K E N T. 
 
 the year ioi2» on the fpot where the church now ftands« 
 There is a college at the end of the town, fronting the 
 Fhames, for the maintenance of twenty decayed old houfe* 
 keepers, twelve oat of Greenwich, and eight who are to be 
 alternately chcfen from Snottifham and Caftle Rifingin Nor- 
 folk, This is called the Duke of Norfolk's College, though 
 it was founded and endowed in 1613, by Henry Howard, Earl 
 of Northampton, the Duke of Norfolk's brother, and by him 
 committed to the care of the Mercer's Company. There is a 
 chapel belonging to this college, in which the Earl's body is 
 laid, which, as well as his monument, was removed hither a 
 few years ago, from the chapel of Dover caftle, of which he 
 was conftable. — In the year 1560, Mr, John Lambard, author 
 of the Perambulation of Kent, alfo built and founded an hof- 
 pital here for twenty poor perfons, called Queen Elizabeth's 
 College, This is faid to be the firft: hofpital founded by an 
 Englifh Prcteftant. There are likewife two charity-fchools 
 in this parifh, one founded by Sir William Boreham, and the 
 other by Mr. John Roan. A market was erected in this town 
 in the year 1737? the direction of which is in the governors of 
 the Royal Hofpital, to which the profits arifing from it were 
 appropriated. The market days are Wednefdays and Sa- 
 turdays, 
 
 Greenwich ha? been the refidenceof feveral of ourMonarchs. 
 Henry the Eighth and the Queens Mary and Elizabeth were 
 born here; r«nd that excellent young Monarch Edward the 
 Sixth died here, The palace was firft erecled by Humphry 
 Duke* of Gloucefier 5 who nnmed it Placentia. King Edward 
 the Fourth beftowed confiderable fums of money in enlarg- 
 ing and beautifying it, in which he was followed by King 
 Henry the Seventh; but it was coiripleated by King Henry 
 the Eighth, who often kept his Chriftmas and other great 
 feftivals at this place, with magnificent joufts and tourna- 
 ments 5 and the ground, which was called the Tilt-yard, is 
 the fpot on which the eaft wing of the royal hofpital is 
 built. But this palace being afterwards fuffered to run to 
 ruin was pulled down by King Charles the Second, who 
 began another, a it, oft magnificent edifice, and lived to fee 
 the firft wing fin idled; but this was afterwards converted 
 into a part of the royal hofpital; and that which is properly 
 the palace here now, is an edifice of no great extent, and is 
 at prefent converted into apartments for the governor of the 
 hofpital and the ranger of the park. 
 
 The 
 
KENT. 369 
 
 The park is well flocked with deer, and affords a noble and 
 delightful view of the hofpital, the river Thame?, and the 
 city of London. It was enlarged by King Charles the Second, 
 who walled it round, planted it, and caufed a royal ob- 
 fervatory to be erected on the top of the deep of the hill. 
 This edifice his Majefty erecled for the ufe of the celebrated 
 Mr. John Flamftead, and it fHH retains the name of chat emi- 
 nent aftronomer. King Charles likewife furnifhed it with, 
 mathematical inftruments for agronomical obfervacioas, and 
 a deep dry well for obferving the ftars in the day time. This 
 park is much reforted to in the Eafter and Whitfun holidays, 
 by young men and women from London and the neighbour- 
 hood, who divert themfelves by running down the hills, and 
 other rural fports. 
 
 The royal hofpital at Greenwich is fo magnificent a ftruc* 
 ture, that it can fcarcely be taken for any thing lefs than the 
 palace of a great Monarch. Indeed the wing which King 
 Charles the Second defigned for the palace, is now the firfl 
 win£ of the hofpital towards London; for King William 
 the Third being very defirous of promoting the commerce, 
 navigation, and naval ftrergth of this kingdom, by inviting 
 great numbers of his fubjedts to betake themfelves to the fea, 
 gave this noble palace, and feveral other edifices, with a con- 
 siderable fpot of ground, for the ufe of thofe Englifh feamen 
 and their children, who by age, wounds, or other accidents, 
 fhould bedifabled from farther fervice at fea; and for the wi- 
 dows and children of fuch as were fiain at fea, fighting againft 
 the enemies of their country* King William alio, by his Ut- 
 ters patent,, in 1694., appointed commiffioners for the better 
 carrying on his public* fpirited and laudable defign, in which 
 he defired the affiftanceof his fubjecls, as the neceiiity of his 
 affairs did not permit him to advance fo confiderable a fum 
 towards this work as he dtfired, and as was requiiite for the 
 purpofe. In compliance with this requeft, many benefactions 
 were made to this noble charity, both in that and the fucceed- 
 ing reigns ; which, according to the tables hung up at the en- 
 trance of the hall, amount to fifty-eight thoufand two hun- 
 dred and nine pounds ; and afterwards the ertate of the Earl 
 of Derwentwater, which was forfeited by that noDleman's 
 being concerned in the rebellion in ij 15, and which amounted 
 to fix thoufand pounds per annum, was given by parliament 
 to this hofpital. The firfi range had colt King Charles the 
 
 Vol. I. 3 A Second 
 
KENT. 
 
 Second thirty-fix thoufand pounds; and another was ordered 
 to be built on the fame model. This has been comp eared 
 with equal magnificence, and the whole ftruclure entirely 
 finished. 
 
 The front to the Thames confifts of thefe two ranges of 
 ftone buildings, with the governor's houfe at the back part in 
 the centre, behind which tke park, well planted with trees, 
 rifes with a noble afcent. Thefe buildings, between which is 
 a large area, perfectly correfpond with each other, and each 
 range is terminated by a very noble dome. In each front to 
 the Thames, two ranges of coupled Corinthian columns, 
 finely wrought, fupport their pediments, and the fame order is 
 continued in pilafters along the building. In the centre of 
 each part, between thefe ranges of Corinthian columns, is the 
 door, which is of the Doric order. The buildings, which 
 are continued from thofe of which we have juft been fpeaking, 
 and which face the area, correfpond with them, though in a 
 more fine and elegant manner. In the centre of both is a 
 range of columns fupporting a pediment, and at each corner 
 a range of Corinthian pilafters. The front is rufticated, and 
 there are two feries of windows. The domes at the end, 
 which are one hundred and twenty feet high, are fupported on 
 coupled columns, as are the porticoes below ; and under one of 
 thefe is the chapel, which is adorned on the infide with the ut~ 
 mofr elegance and beauty. On the fides of the gate are placed 
 a large celeflial and terreftrial globe; and in the centre of 
 the area is fixed on a pedeflal a ftatueof our late excellent 
 Monarch, King George the Second. 
 
 The hall of this hofpital, which is very noble, is finely 
 painted by Sir James Thornhill. At the upper end of it are 
 represented, in an a!cove,the late Princefs Sophia, King George 
 the Firfr, King George the Second, Queen Caroline, the 
 Queen Dowager of Pruffia, Frederick Prince of Wales, the late 
 Duke of Cumberland, and the five Princefies, the daughters 
 of his late lVIajefty. On the cieling over the alcove are Queen 
 Anne and Pr irscc George of Denmark ; and on the cieling of 
 the hall are King William and Queen Mary, with feveral fine 
 emblematical figures. All Grangers who fee this hall pay 
 two-pence each, and this income is applied to the fuppoit of 
 the mathematical fchool for the fons of failors. 
 
 In 
 
KENT. 371 
 
 In the year 1705 an hundred difabled feamen were the firft 
 that were received into this hofpital ; but it at prefent contains 
 near two thousand old or difabled feamen, and an hundred 
 boys, the fons of feamen, who are inftrucled in navigation, 
 and bred up for the fervice of the royal navy ; but there arc 
 no out-penfioners, as at Chelfea. Each of the mariners has 
 a weekly allowance of feven loaves, weighing fixteen ounces 
 each, three pounds of beef, two of mutton, a pint of peafe, a 
 pound and a quarter of cheefe, two ounces of butter, fourteen 
 quarts of beer, and one {hilling a week tobacco money. The 
 tobacco money of the boatfwains is two (hillings and fix- 
 pence a week each ; that of their mates one fhilling and fix- 
 pence j and that of the other officers in proportion to their 
 rank : befides which, each common penfioner is completely 
 clothed once in two years. 
 
 For the better fupport of this hofpital, every feaman in the 
 royal navy, and in the fervice of the merchants, pays fixpence a 
 month. T his is flopped out of the pay of all failors, and 
 delivered in at the Sixpenny Receiver's Office on Tower- 
 hill ; and therefore a feaman who can produce an authentic 
 certificate of his being difabled, and rendered unfit for the 
 fca-fervicc, by defending any fhip belonging to Britifh fubjecls, 
 or in taking any (hip from the enemy, may be admitted into 
 this hofpital, and receive the fame benefit from it, as if he had 
 been in the immediate fervice of the government. This hof- 
 pital has about an hundred governors, compofed of the nobi- 
 lity, great officers of ftate, and perfons in confiderable pofts 
 under the King. 
 
 Woolwich is nine miles from London, and three from 
 Greenwich, fituated on the banks of the river Thames, and 
 wholly taken up by, and in a manner raifed from, the yards 
 and docks erecled there for the naval fervice. In the reign of 
 Edward the Firft, Woolwich was in pofleffion of Gilbert de 
 Marifco 5 and he held it, as half a Knight's fee, of Warren 
 de Monchenfie, Baron of Swanfcombe : but Queen Elizabeth, 
 when the bufinefs of the navy increafed, built here larger fhips 
 than were ufually employed before; new docks and launches 
 were erecled, and places prepared for building and repairing 
 (hips of the krgeft fize, beeaufe there was a greater depth of 
 water and a freer channel than at Deptford. This is reckoned 
 
 3 A 2 the 
 
372 KEN T. 
 
 the mother-dock of the royaUnavy, and is faid to have fur- 
 niflied as many (hips of war as any two docks in England. 
 
 All the buildings and yards belonging to the dock, are en- 
 compaflfed with an high wall, and are very fpacious and con- 
 venient, and fo prodigiouily full of all forts of fiores, of timber, 
 plank, mads, pitch, tar, and other naval provifions, as can 
 hardly be conceived. Befides the building yard, here is a large 
 rope-walk, where the blggefi cables are made for men of war 5 
 and on the eafr, or lower part of the town, is the gun-yard, 
 commonly called The Warren, or The Gun Park\ where there 
 is a vaft quantity of cannon of all forts for the fhips of war, 
 every fhip's gunsa«parr, heavy cannon for batteries, and mor- 
 tars of all forts and fizes; infomuch that there have been laid 
 up at one time between ftven and eight thoufand pieces of ord- 
 nance, befides mortars and fhei's, almofl beyond number. Here 
 isalfothe houfe where the firemen and engineers prepare their 
 fire-works, and charge bombs, carcafes and grenadoes, for the 
 public fer vice. 
 
 The town has been of late years much enlarged and beau- 
 tified, feveral fine docks, rope yards, and capacious magazines 
 added, and the royal foundery for cannon repaired and im- 
 proved. The regiment of the royal train of artillery com- 
 monly lies here ; and here is an academy for inftructing them in 
 the art of gunnery. The Thames is here near a mile over ac 
 high water, and the water fait upon the flood ; and as the 
 channel lies ftraic eaft and weft for about three miles, the tide 
 runs very ftrong, and the river is entirely free from fhoals and 
 fands, and has feven or eight fathom water ; fo that the hrgeft 
 fhips may ride here with fafety, even at low water, 
 
 The parifh church of Woolwich is one of the fifty new 
 churches, and is a very handfome edifice. A weekly market 
 is kept in this town on Fridays. 
 
 There is a fortification near Woolwich, on the river Ra- 
 ve b (bourn, the area of which is inclofed with treble ramparts 
 and ditches, very high and deep, near two miles in compafs^ 
 which is fuppofsd to be a work of the Romans. 
 
 Dartford is an handfome large town, fixteen miles from 
 London 1 but it is more properly called Darentford^ from its 
 being fituated on the river Darent, which runs through it, and 
 at a fmall diftance falls into the Thames. On this river the 
 £r# paper mill in England was eredted by Sir John Spilman, 
 
KENT* 
 
 373 
 
 who obtained a patent, and two hundred pounds a year from 
 Kin£ Charles the Fiifr, to enable him to carry on that ma- 
 nufacture: and on this river was alfo thefirft mill for flitting 
 iron bars for making wire. The town is full of inns and 
 other public houfes, on account of ks being a great tho- 
 roughfare to Canterbury and Dover. H^re is a harbour for 
 barges, and the town is finely watered by two or three good 
 fprings. King Edward the Third had a general tournament 
 performed here by his nobles, and alfo here founded a convent, 
 whofe abbefs and nuns were, for the moft pa r t, of the nobSefi: 
 families in this kingdom ; and this convent King Henry the 
 Eighth turned into a palace. King Henry the Sixth founded 
 an alms-houfe here for five poor decrepid men. There is a 
 market here on Saturdays, which is generally well ftored with 
 corn and other provifions, and much frequented by corn- 
 chandlers and meal-men. Here is alfo an annua) fair on the 
 2d of Augufi: for horfes and bullocks. There is a large gun- 
 powder mill here ; and it ie very remarkable, that though it 
 has been blown up four times between the years 1730 and 
 1738, yet no one ever received any perfonal damage by thefe 
 misfortunes. This town gives the title of Vifcount to ths 
 Earl of Jerfey. 
 
 Gravesend is twenty-two miles from London, and is a 
 flouriftiing and populous place, well paved and lighted. It has 
 changed its fituation fince the great increafe of trade in this 
 nation, and approached nearer the river, as the chief fupport of 
 its inhabitants. Jt was incorporated, together with Milton, 
 which is at a fmail diftance from hence, in the tenth year of 
 Queen Elizabeth's reign, by the name of the portreeve (which 
 has been changed to that of mayor), jurats, and inhabitants of 
 the towns of Gravefend and Milton. 
 
 Gravefend is fituated on the river Thames, oppofite to Ti!* 
 bury Fort, and is a vaft thoroughfare between London and 
 Dover. Here is-frated one of the blockhoufes for fecuring the 
 paflage of the Thames up to London; and this being the 
 ufual landing place for all Grangers and feamen, occafions a 
 great refort of all degrees of people ; for whofe accommoda- 
 tion there are held here two large weekly markets, on Wed- 
 nefdays and Saturdays, well ftored with all forts of provifions. 
 Here all outward-bound fhips muft ilop, and come to an an- 
 chor, when a fearcher of the cuiioms comes on board, and 
 
 looks 
 
374 
 
 K E N T, 
 
 looks after the feveral cockets, which contain the entries of 
 the feveral parts of the cargo, if of divers forts; and this is 
 called clearing* 
 
 In the reign of King Richard the Second this town was 
 burnt and plundered by the French ; who, to make reprifals 
 upon the Englifb, for the ravage and plunder made in France 
 by the Englifh army, under the Lord Nevil, came up the 
 Thames with their fhips, and burnt and plundered this and 
 feveral other towns, and carried away many of the inhabitants* 
 But to enable the town of Gravefend to recover this lofs, the 
 abbot of St. Mary Le Grace on Tower Hi!!, to whom King 
 Richard had granted a manor belonging to Gravefend, obtained 
 that the inhabitants of Gravefend and Milton fhould have the 
 lb!e privilege of carrying palTengers by water from hence to 
 London, at two-pence a head, or four (hillings the whole fare ; 
 but the fare is now railed to nine- pence a head in the tilt-boat, 
 and one {hilling in the wherry* The former muft not take in 
 above forty paffengers, and the latter no more than ten. The 
 Watermen's Company are by acl: of parliament obliged to pro- 
 vide .officers at Billingfgate and at Gravefend, who at every 
 time of highwater, by night and day, are at their refpe&ive 
 places to ring publickly a bell fet up for that purpofe, for fif- 
 teen minutes, to give notice to the ti!t*boats and wherries to 
 put off ; and coaches ply at Gravefend at the landing or peo- 
 ple from London, to carry them toRochefter, 
 
 Gravefend being burnt down in the year 1727, the parlia- 
 ment, in 1731, granted five thoufand pounds for rebuilding its 
 church, which flood near the high road, but is now nearer the 
 river, and is a new and e!egant building. Here is a very 
 handfonie charitable foundation, Mr. Henry Pinnock having 
 in 1624, given twenty-one dwelling-houfes, and a houfe for a 
 mafier- weaver to employ the poor 3 and a good eftate is alfo 
 fettled for the repairs. 
 
 In the reign of Queen Elizabeth, the lord-mayor, aldermen, 
 and companies of the city of London, were ordered by her 
 Majefty to receive all eminent ftrangers and foreign ambaf- 
 fadorjs at Gravefend, in their formalities, and fo to attend them 
 up to London in their barges, if they came up by water. 
 If they came by land, they met them at Shooter's hill, or oa 
 Blackheath, x>n horfeback. 
 
 Within a few years paft, great improvements have been 
 made in the lands near this town, by turning them intQ 
 
 kitchen 
 
KEN T. 
 
 375 
 
 kitchen garden?, with the produce of which Gravefend not 
 only fupplies the neighbouring places for fevera] miles round, 
 but alfo fends great quantities to the London markets. 
 
 There are two annual fairs held here, one on the 23d of 
 April, and the other on the 24.cn of October, for horfes, 
 death?, toys, and other goods. 
 
 Bromley is a fmall town,fituated on the river Ravenfbourn, 
 at the diftance of ten miles from London. The bifhop of Ro- 
 chefter has a palace here. King Edgar is faid to have given this 
 manor to the bifhops of that fee in the year 955. Here is alfo 
 an hofpital, erecled by Dr. Warner, biihop of Rochefter, in 
 the reign of King Charles the Second, for twenty poor clergy- 
 men's widow?, with an allowance of twenty pounds a year 
 each, and fifty pounds a year to the chaplain. This was the 
 firft endowment of the fort ever eftablifhed in England The 
 Reverend Mr, Hetherington, a few years ago, prefented two 
 thoufand pounds to this college. 
 
 There is a mineral fpring here, the water of which has been 
 found, by a chemical analyfi?, Co contain the fame qualities as 
 the Tunbridge water, in a greater degree. A market is kept 
 here every Thurfday, and two annual fair?, one on the 3d of 
 February, and the other on the 5th of Augulr, for horfes, bul- 
 locks, fheep, and hogs. 
 
 Milton is an ancient town, about twelve miles from Ro- 
 che fie r, and forty-two from London, It is in a manner fitu- 
 ated on the water of a fine rivulet, at the head of a creek that 
 runs into the Swale, which feparates the ille of Shepey from 
 the main. Antiquity has dignified it, by calling it The Royal 
 Tciun of Middleton* When King Alfred divided his king- 
 dom into hundreds and {hires, Milton was in his pofTeffion, 
 and therefore was fo denominated : it was honoured with a 
 royal palace, which was fituated near where the church at 
 prefent (lands, about a mile north-eafi: of the town. It was 
 afiourifhing place until the reign of Edward the Confeflbr ; 
 nor do we read of its being injured by the Danes, although it 
 muft have been vifited by them. In the fame reign, in the 
 year 10^3, Earl Godwin^ who had been banifhed, came hither 
 and burnt the palace and town to afhes. 
 
 Milton church is a large and handfome building. There 
 was a church in this place very early j for Sexburga, the 
 
 found refs 
 
376 K E N T. 
 
 foundrefs of the nunnery at Minfler in Shepey, is faid to have 
 expired in the church porch of Milton, about the year 68(1. 
 It contains feveral ancient monuments of the Norwood family* 
 
 The town is governed by a portreeve, who is annually 
 chofen on St. James's- day. There is a good oyfter fifhery 
 in the Swale, belonging to this town: the oyfrers are much 
 efteemed in London* A market was granted by King Edward 
 the Firft, in the year 1287, anc * continues on Saturdays. A 
 fair is he!d here on the 24th of May. 
 
 Within a mile to the eaft of the church is a large open field 
 or marfh, called Kelmfiey Down y derived, it is imagined, from 
 Campjley Dcwn, or The Place of Camps > becaufe there ths 
 Danes, under Haftirgs, in 892, encamped on their arrivalfrom 
 France, with eighty ihi ps. 
 
 On the eaft fide of the down are the remains of a caftle, faid 
 to have been built at that time by thofe free-hooters. It is 
 now called Cajlle Ruff. All that appears of this fortrefs ac 
 prefent is a fquare piece of ground furrounded by a large moat. 
 
 On the oppofite fide of Milton creek, and about half a mile 
 north of Sittingborn, are the poor remains of Bayford Caftle^ 
 faid to have been railed by the good and vigilant King Alfred, 
 to fecure the country from the excurfions of the Danes, while 
 they rendezvoufed on Kelmfley Downs. The moat and a fmali 
 part of the eaft wall are ftill vifible. 
 
 Feversham is forty eight miles from London, and is a town 
 cf great antiquity. Inacharterof Kenulph, King of Mer- 
 cia, dated 8C2, it is called The Kings Little Town^ and feems 
 to have been a royal residence at ihat time. King Stephen 
 founded an abbey here in 1148, but there are no remains of 
 it, except an inner gate and fome walls. The church is large 
 and handfome. Feverfharn is now in a flounfhing ftate, being 
 the chief port for this part of the country : it is htuated on a 
 rivulet which falls into the mouth ot tilt Swale, and has an 
 oyfter hfhery. The dicdgers have a peculiar iaw among them, 
 which obliges a perfon to marry before he can be jree ot the 
 grounds. The town is an appendage of the town and port of 
 Dover. It is governed by a mayo. , jurats, and commonalty; 
 has a market on Wtdnefdajs and Saturdays 3 and two fairs, 
 one on the 25th of February, and the other on the J2th of 
 AugufU 
 
 A large 
 
KENT. 
 
 377 
 
 A large powder manufactory fubfifted near this town ?s early 
 as the time of Qusn Elizabeth ; and fame years ago it was 
 purchafed by government. 
 
 To the north" weft of the town, on the other fide of the ri- 
 vulet, is the chapel of Davington, where was a confiderable 
 nunnery. It was founded foon after the abbey of Feverflism, 
 in the reign of King Stephen, in the year 115 3. The chapel 
 of this ancient religious houfe is now the parifli church. 
 
 To the fouth of the town, near the road, is the fmall, but 
 neat church of Prefton, in which are fome monuments three 
 hundred years old. 
 
 Sandwich is one of the Cinque Ports, and is at the dis- 
 tance of eight miles from Margate, and fixty-feven from 
 London. The walls of the town, which were made by throw- 
 ing up the earth, are nearly in the form of a parallelogram, 
 and are five furlongs in length from eaft to weft, and two and 
 a half from north to fouth ; at the foot of which is a wet 
 ditch of confiderable breadth. They command a pleafant and 
 extenfive view of the adjacent country. In thefe walls are fe- 
 veral femicircular projections which overlook the ditches, 
 there were alfo fome pieces of ordnance, which being quite 
 unferviceable, have been removed The river and quays are 
 on the north fide of the town. There are fevera! gates be- 
 longing to it, (ome of which are in a ruinous condition. 
 
 It appears from the remains of fortifications about this 
 town, that it was anciently a place of great ftrength ; and, 
 before the ufe of cannon, was capable of enduring a vigorous 
 liege. Sandwich has been efteemed the moft famous of all the 
 ports in England ; and is thought, by many refpe£table au- 
 thors, to have been the landing place generally ufed by the 
 Romans, and inhabitants of the ancient city Rhutupiae. 
 
 In Sandwich are three parifli churches, St. Clement's, St. 
 Mary's, and St, Peter's. There was formerly a fourth in the 
 fouth-weft part of this town, dedicated to St. James, but 
 there are no remains of it at prefent. The churchward is ftill 
 inciofed, and is ufed for the interment of (hangers* Sr. Cle- 
 ment's church is in the eaft part of the town, and fituated 
 upon higher ground than the reft. It is a large and ancient 
 ftrufture, and much refembles the Norman ftyle of architec- 
 ture 5 particularly the tower, which is confiderably older than 
 the reft of the building* 
 
 Vol* I. 3 B There 
 
/ 
 
 378 KEN T. 
 
 There Is a good bridge here, which wasere&ed in I757 # 
 It is built with {tone, having an arch on each fide, and a paf- 
 fage between for the larger veflels, that ufe this port. The 
 middle arch is of wood, divided into two parts, which are 
 cafily drawn up or let down. The paflage over the ftone pare 
 of the bridge is fecured by a parapet wall on each fide, and the 
 wooden arch by Chinefe rails. It is a work of confiderable 
 utility, not only to the inhabitants of Sandwich and the ifle of • 
 Thaner, but to all the eaftern part of this county, and to the 
 public in general. 
 
 The ftieets of Sandwich are narrow and irregular ; but 
 there is a handfome fquare called The Fljh- Market^ which con- 
 lifts principally of fhops. Here is alio another fquare called 
 The Corn- Market ; and near the weft fide of this is the town- 
 hall, which is a very ancient flru&ure. 
 
 Sandwich claims jurisdiction over Deal, Ramfgate, Ford- : 
 wicb, Sarre, and Brightlingfea, in Effex, which are members 
 of this Cinque Port. It ufed to furnifli five fliips cornpleat 
 for fervice. 
 
 This town was anciently incorporated by the name of the 
 barons of the town and port of Sandwich ; but at prefent is j 
 incorporated by the name of the mayor, jurats, and commo- 
 nalty. It fends two members to parliament, whaftill retain 
 the ancient name of barons of the Cinque Port of Sand wich* 
 The freemen of the Cinque Ports have the. privilege of fend- 
 ing a certain number of their own members to fupport the 
 royal canopy at a coronation. Befides the mayor, there are 
 twelve jurats and twenty-four common-council-men, a town- 
 clerk, two treafurers, and other inferior officers. 
 
 The trade of this town chiefly confifls in coals, fir, timber, | 
 deals, &c. with which the country is fupplied. Here are alfo 
 JTnpped corn, malt, fruit, and feeds, for London and other 
 markets. The feeds raifed from this foil are in much repute. 
 
 Sandwich is for the mod part fupplied with water from a 
 narrow ftream called the Delph, which runs through it. Here 
 is a market on Wednefdays and Saturdays, and a fair on the 
 4th of December, which continues two days. The (hrimps 
 which are caught near this town are remarkably excellent. 
 There ate Several good inns in Sandwich, and many wealthy ! 
 inhabitants. Here is alio a large and elegant aflembly-room., I 
 which is a very modern ftructure. Since the conltru& ; on of 
 the bridge, and the refort to Margate as a bathing-pUce, the 
 town has been more frequency vifiied Dy ftrangers v a t0L *r 
 
 from 
 
 ' V 
 
KENT, 
 
 from thence to Sandwich, Deal, Dover, &c. being a pleafant 
 and agreeable excurfion. 
 
 Deal is about five miles fouth-weft of Sandwich, and 
 feventy-two from London, It is divided intoUpper and Lower 
 Deal; the former is the mod ancient, the latter having had 
 its exiftence from the increafe of trade. The trade of die in- 
 habitants chiefly confifls in fuppiying the (hips which rendez- 
 vous in the Downs. This town is a member of the port of 
 Sandwich, and is governed by a mayor and jurats, fubordinate 
 to that towm. Here is a market on Wednefdays and Satur- 
 days, and two fairs annually, one on the 5th of April, the 
 other on the lothof October. 
 
 Dover is at the diftanee of feventy-one miles from Lon- 
 don, and is fituated on the fea fhore, in the narrowed part of 
 the channel that divides England and France; the cliffs of 
 Calais, cn the French coaft, being only thirty miles diftant. 
 It is a very agreeable fea-pcrt, the fituation being very roman- 
 tic, at the foot of feveral bold hills; and the harbour in the 
 centre of the town, quite built round, is furrounded by quays, 
 which are very pleating to the view. From the ca&le, and 
 the hills near the town on the road to Hythe, are noble viev^s 
 down to the town, the harbour, and the (hipping; and over 
 channel, the high lands in France are diftindtiy feen. 
 
 Dover is a place of great antiquity, and was undoubtedly 
 one of the Roman ports in this country. It was a town of 
 great repute in the time of Edward the Confeffor, wnen it 
 was the principal of the Cinque Ports it was formerly 
 walled in, having ten or eleven gates ; and the walls are U\d to 
 have been built by the Emperor Severus ; but there are now 
 but fmall remains either of the walls or gates* There were 
 alfo formerly feven churches in Dover, but there are now only- 
 two. 
 
 Dover caftle is built on the extremity of the ftupendous 
 cliffs which form the eafiern barrier to Dover town and har- 
 bour, and is fo large as to contain thirty-five acres of ground. 
 There has been a fortification on this fpot ever fince the 
 Romans poflefltd this ifland, and it was or great repute among 
 the Saxon Kings. It was thought a very important object by 
 William the Norman ; and through acourfeof ages iuccced- 
 ing &ing§ built new towers, and increafed its natural itrength 
 
 3 B 2 to 
 
3 8o 
 
 KENT. 
 
 to fucb a degree, that in King Henry (he Third's time it was 
 called the key and barrier of the whole realm, — This caftle 
 contains a curious fpecimen of ancient fortification, and is 
 well worthy of attention. St. Martin's chinch is faid to 
 have been fituated here, for the fervice of the royal palace, 
 which was in the eaftle. Here is a tower at the weft end, 
 which, with the church, bears evident marks of antiquity. 
 The bells which were in it were removed to Portfmouth by 
 Sir George Rook. There is a well in this caftle three hun- 
 dred and fiXty feet deep, lined to the bottom with free~ftone„ 
 In the caftle they fhew two very old keys, and a brafs trumpet, 
 faid to have been ufed in the time of Julius Caefar. Here is 
 a brafs gun, fuppofed to be the longeft in the world : it was 
 preferred to Queen Elizabeth by the States of Utrecht: it 
 carries a ball of fifteen pounds weighf, is twenty-two feet 
 long, and is faid to throw a bail feven miles. It is commonly 
 cajled ghieen Elizabeth's Pccket PiftoU 
 
 Dover is incorporated by the name of the mayor, jurats, 
 and commonalty of die town and port of Dover, and fends 
 two members to parliament: it has received many favours 
 from different Princes, one of which was the privilege of a 
 licenfed -packet- boat to France; on account of the narrow* 
 r>efs of the channel, it is become the general place of em- 
 barkation for that kingdom and arrival from thence. In the 
 reign of King Richard the Second the fare from France for a 
 iingle paffenger,in fummer time, was fettled at fixpence, and a 
 fhiliing in winter. A market is kept here on WednefJays 
 and Saturdays, and a fair on the22dof November. 
 
 As Dover is one of the Cinque Ports, it may not be improper 
 here toobferve, that this phrafe is derived from quinque portus, 
 i. e„Jive havens, that lie over againft France, and were thus 
 called by way of eminence, on account of their fuperior im- 
 portance. Our Kings have thought them worthy a particular 
 regard and the better fo fecure them againft invaftons, have 
 granted them a peculiar form of government. They are go- 
 verned by a keeper, who has the title of Lord-Warden of the 
 Cinque Ports, They had a particular jurifdidiion granted 
 them by King John, and feveral other privileges which have 
 been confirmed by moft of his fuccefibrs. Their Warden, 
 who was firft appointed by William the Conqueior, has the 
 authority of an Admiral among them, and iffues out writs in 
 his own namet The five original Cinque Ports are Dover, 
 
 Rumney, 
 
KENT. 3S1 
 
 Rurnneyj and Sandwich, in Kent ; and Wmchelda and Rye, 
 market-towns of Suflex ; and to t h efe five original ports there 
 were afterwards added Ha (lings and S^ar ord, t wo other markec 
 towns in SufTex, and Hythe m Kent. When the ferries 
 which was required of the Cinque Ports towards their prefer* 
 vation became too burdenfome, each was ,111 0 ved a certain 
 number of other towns in its neighbourhood, as auxiliaries, 
 that they might bear a part in this public charge Viit C »q ae 
 Ports claim the honour of fupporting the canopy 5 which at a 
 coronation is borne over the Sovereign, and afterwards io dine 
 at theuppermoft table on the King's right hand : cue canopy., 
 ftaves, &c. are their fee. Thirty- two barons or inhabitants of 
 the ports ufed to be fummoned for this purpofe, whoie ex- 
 pences were borne by the ports; but at prefent they ufually 
 depute their members of parliament to that orHce. 
 
 Folkstone is fituated between Dover and Hythe, and 
 is a member of the Cinque Port of Dover. It is fair-en ty- 
 one miks fro n London, and appears to have been a very 
 ancient place, from the Roman coins and other antiquities 
 which have been found in it. Here was formerly a nun- 
 nery ; but beiag to near th? coaii:, it was oken pillaged by 
 tiie Danes, and at laft (wallowed up by the fea. H jwever, 
 after theconqueft, a priory was founded here, Hire is a cna« 
 lity fchool for twenty boys, nominated by the mayor and jurats, 
 who, with the commonalty, coniiitute the c orporation. A 
 copious fpring runs through the town. Folkifcone is chiefly 
 noted for the multitude of rifhing boats that belong to its har- 
 bour, which are employed at the proper feafon in catching 
 mackarel for London ; and about Michaelmas the Fokitone 
 barks, with others from the Eflex ihore, fail a /vay Co the coaits 
 of Suffolk and Norfolk to catch herrings. 
 
 Hythe is fituated in the foulh-eaft part of the county of 
 Kent, and is fmy-nine miles fro n L mdon. It is a Cinque 
 Port and corporation, governed by a mayor, j urats, and com- 
 monalty* This town had anciently five pariffa churches, 
 though now it has only one. Here are two hofpiuU, and a 
 charity -Ichool for thirty-eight boys, — A remarkaoie pile of 
 dry bones has been prefer ved in this town, and kept in a vault 
 under the churchy confuting of feverai tb#fcfand heads, arms, 
 
KENT. 
 
 legs, thigh-hones, &c. fome of which are very gigantic, and 
 appear by an infcription to be the remains of the Danes and 
 Britons killed in a battle near this place before the Norman 
 conqueft. 
 
 Rumney is often called New Rummy, to diflingu ifh it from 
 an inconfiderable town within a mile and a half of it, called 
 Old Rumney. New Rumney is fevcnty miles from London, 
 and is one of the Cinque Ports, and a corporation, governed 
 by a mayor, jurats, and commonalty* The town ftands on a 
 high gravelly hill, in the middle of Rumney marfh. — Old 
 Rumney was once a large town, containing twelve wards and 
 live churches. It had a clofe and commodious haven, and 
 the (hips came fo clofe to the town that (hips ufed to anchor in 
 one of the church yards ; but the fea defer ted it in the reign 
 of King Edward the Fir ft. It has now but one churcft. 
 It is faid that by a ftorm which happened here in 1334, above 
 three hundred windmills and houfes were carried away; which, 
 together with the withdrawing of the fea, fo impoverished thej 
 place, that it could never recover it. 
 
 Tenterden is an ancient town in Kent, at the diftance 
 of fifty-eight miles from London. It is governed by a mayor 
 and jurats. The beacon of the church here is remarkably 
 lofty, and is proverbially faid to have been the caufe of fome 
 dangerous fands in the channel, called Godwin Sands. Thefe 
 fands were a tradt of ground near the Ifle of Thanet, belong- 
 ing to Godwin, Earl of Kent, which lying low, were defended 
 from the fea by a great wall that required a conftant care to 
 uphold it. This tradi was afterwards given to St. Auftin's 
 monaftery, near Canterbury ; and the abbot neglecting the 
 wall while he was taken up in building Tenderden fteeple, the 
 fea broke in and overflowed the ground, leaving the fands 
 upon it. At the time of the alarm of the Spaniih invafion, 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, a beacon was placed upon 
 Tenterden fteeple. 
 
 Cranbrook is fixty miles from London. It is fituated in 
 a woody part of the county of Kent, and is the place where 
 the firft woollen manufacture in the kingdom was erected, by 
 thofe Flemings who were encouraged to fettle here by King 
 Edward the Third, in order to teach the art to his fubjeclsj 
 
KENT. 383 
 
 and excellent cloth ufed to be made here formerly; but that 
 trade has long fince decayed, and this is now only an inconfi- 
 derable place. 
 
 Tunbridge is a market town, at the diftance of thirty 
 miles from London, fituated upon the river Medway, which 
 here branches out into many little ftreams, overall which 
 there are bridges. This town derives its name from thefe 
 bridge?, it being; compounded of 7W, the Saxon word for 
 Town, and Bridge* It confifts of one broad ftreet, adorned 
 with fome very good modern houfes. Here is a good free- 
 fchool, which was ere&ed and endowed about two hundred 
 years ago, by Sir Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor of London, who 
 veiled the care of it in the Skinners Company. It is kept in 
 excellent repair, and is at prefent in a very flourifhing condi- 
 tion. There is nothing remarkable in the church, which is 
 a neat modern building. Here is a market on Fridays, and 
 fairs held on Afh-Wednefday, the 5th of July, and the 29th 
 of October. 
 
 At the further end cf the town, on the rfght hand ? as you 
 come from London, the noble ruins of an old caftle ftrike you 
 with awe and veneration. It was built by Richard de Clare, 
 on a piece of ground which was given him by Langfranc, 
 Archbifhop of Canterbury, in exchange for as much land in 
 Normandy, the meafurernent being on both fides made with 
 thongs of raw hides. It ftands upon an eminence clofe upon 
 the banks of the Medway, and has been very ftrong, and was 
 anciently a place of confiderable importance* Edward the 
 Fi ft was nobly feafted here in the fecond year of his reign, 
 by Gilbert de Clare Earl of Gloucefter and Hertford. In 
 the reign of Edward the Fourth this caftle was in the poffcfs- 
 fion of Henry Duke of Buckingham 5 but in the reign of 
 Henry theEighth both the town and cattle were forfeited to the 
 crown by the attainder of Edward Staffbrd 3 Duke of Bucking- 
 ham ; and the latter has not been in the leaft repaired fince 
 that time. Queen Elizabeth gave it to her kinfman Henry 
 Lord Hunfdon, from whofe heirs it pa fled into private hands, 
 
 Maidstone is fituated cn the river Medway, and is thirty- 
 fix miles from London. In the time of the Britons it was 
 their third chief city; it was alfo a ftation of the Romans, 
 snd has been a confiderable town in all ages fince f It is a 
 
 large 
 
3 ?4 KEN T 
 
 Jarge, pleafant, 2nd populous plsce, and is a corporation, go- 
 verned by a mavor and commonalty* The chief trade of 
 Maidftone is in thread, which is made here in great perfection, 
 and in hops, of which there are vaft quantities, be fides fine 
 orchards of cherries From this town and the adjacent court* 
 try London is faid to be fopplied with more neceflaries of life 
 than from any other market-town in England, particularly 
 with large bullocks, timber, wheat, hops, and apples, The 
 county courts are held in this town, and generally the affixes. 
 Here is a fine ftonf bridge over the Medway, creeled by one 
 cf the archbifliops of Canterbury. At this place the river 
 Len falls info the Medway, and the tide flows quite up to the 
 tewn, and carries barges of fixty tons. — The weekly market 
 on ThurPays is reckoned the bed: frequented of any in the 
 county, and is toll free for hops. There are four annual fairs 
 here, viz, on the 13th of February, the 12th of May, the 
 20th of June, and the 17th of Ociober. 
 
 West Malling is a market-town of great antiquity, 
 thity miles from London, and where there was formerly a nun- 
 nery of the Benedictine order ; but it is now an inconfiderable 
 place. 
 
 Sevenoke which is twenty-four miles from London, in 
 the road to Tunbridge, is faid to have derived its name from fe- 
 ven very large and high oaks which ftood near it, when it was 
 firft built, but which have long fince been cut down. Here is 
 an hofpital for maintaining poor old people, and a 1'chool for 
 educating poor children, which was built and endowed by Sir 
 W*Hiam Sevenoke, who was Lord -Mayor of London in 1418, 
 and who is faid Co have been a foundling, brought up by fome 
 perfon of this town, from whence he took his name. John 
 Potkyn, who lived in the reign of King Henry the Eighth, 
 was a great benefactor to the fchool ; and the revenue being 
 augmented by Queen Elizabeth, it was from thence called 
 Sthteen Elizabeth's Free SchooL It was rebuilt in 1727. 
 
 Ashford, or Eshford, takes its name from a neighbour- 
 ing ford over a fmall river called The Ejh, near the head of the 
 Stour. It is fifty-feven miles from London, is governed by a 
 mayor, and has a court or record every three weeks for all ac- 
 tions of debts or damages not exceeding twenty marks. Here 
 
K E N 3 8 S 
 
 Is a large church, which was formerly collegiate* and a free 
 grammar-fchool. It has a market and two fairs, 
 
 Crayford is a fmall town near Dartford, which obtained 
 its name from having anciently a ford over the river Cray, or 
 Crouch, a little above its influx into the Thames. This place 
 is famous for a battle fought near it between the Brirons and 
 Saxons, commanded by Hengift, A. D, 457, in which the 
 Britons were overthrown. In the adjacent heath and fields 
 are feveral caves, fuppofed to have been formed by the Saxons 
 as places of fecurity and fhelter for their wives, children, and 
 effects, during their wars with the Britons. 
 
 There are alfo feveral places in Kent, which take their 
 names from the fmall river Cray, on the banks of which they 
 arefituated. This ftream rifes a little to the fouth*weft of 
 St. Mary Cray, runs by that town, and pafEng by Paul's Cray, 
 Foot's Cray, and North Cray, runs into the Daren t, near 
 its conflux with the Thames at Dartford Creek, oppofite to 
 Purfleef. The principal of ihtfe places is St. Mary Cray, 
 about which are many woods of birch, from which the broom- 
 makers in Kent-ftreec, Southwark, are fupplied. 
 
 Elham is fituated upon the fmaller Stour, at the diftance 
 of fixty-two miles from London. It has a market and four 
 fairs, but is an obfcure and inconfiderable place. 
 
 Goudhurst is forty-three miles from London, and is 
 fituated in the road through Tunbridge to Cranbrook. it is 
 remarkable for nothing befides its church, which was fo im- 
 paired by a ftorm of thunder and lightning, on the 23d of 
 April, 1637, that it became neceflary to take down the fteeple, 
 which was lofty, and of ftone. It has fincebeen rebuilt^ but 
 the fmall wooden fteeple, which was haftily fet on the top of 
 the ftone work, with one bell in it, ftill continues. 
 
 Lenham takes its name from its fituation at the fource of 
 a fmall river called The Lett* it is forty-feven miles diftanC 
 from London. It has a market and two fairs, in the church- 
 yard here there is a remarkable infcriprion on the tomb ftone 
 of Robert Thompfon, Efq; whith mentions that he was 
 grand-child to Mary Honey wood, wife of Robert Honey wood^ 
 
 Vol. !• 3 C of 
 
3 86 
 
 KENT* 
 
 of Charing, near this town, who at her deceafe had 367 chil- 
 dren lawfully defcended from her, viz. 
 
 Of her own body, - 16 
 
 Grand-children - 114 
 
 In the third generation - 228 
 In the fourth ditto - 9 
 
 3 5 7 
 
 Lydd was fo called by the Saxons, from the Latin ward 
 UttuSy the Jk'Ore^ alluding to its fituation upon the fea-fhore. 
 It is diftant feventy-five miles from London, and is a member 
 of the Cinque Port of Ronnney. It is a populous town, in- 
 corporated by the name of a bailiff, jurats, and commonalty, 
 and has a charity-fchool. 
 
 Quinborough, or Queenborough, took its name from 
 its having been built by King Edward the Third, in honour 
 of his Queen. It is forty-fix miles from London, andftands 
 on the weft fide of the Ifle of Shepey, and on the banks of the 
 river Med way. It is a corporation, governed by a mayor, 
 aldermen, and other officers. The inhabitants are chiefly 
 fuppdrted by fiihing. 
 
 , Westram is twenty-three miles diftant from London. It 
 is afmall inconfiderable place, In the parifh-church of this 
 town, General Wolfe, who was bom here, lies buried 5 and - 
 on the monument erected to his memory is the following in* 
 
 fcription : 
 
 "JAMES, 
 " Son of Colonel Edward Wolfe, and 
 " Henrietta his Wife, 
 " Was born in this Parifh, January 2, 1727 ; 
 " And died in America, Sept. 1 3, 1759, 
 is Conqueror of Quebec. 
 
 <e While George in Sorrow bow'd his laurelrd Head, 
 " And bids the Artift grace the Soldier dead, 
 fC We raife no fculptur'd Trophy to thy Name, 
 €( Brave Youth ! the faireft in the Lifts of Fame : 
 €t Proud of thy Birth, we boaft th' aufpicious Year ; 
 <e Struck with thy Fail, we fced the general Tear ; 
 * c With humble Grief infcribe one artlefs Stone, 
 j* And from thy matchlefs Honours date our own." 
 
 W RGTHAM, 
 
K E N T. 387 
 
 Wrotham, or Wortham, is rwenty*four miles from 
 London and three miles and an half from Weft Mailing, It 
 received its name from the great quantity of the herb-wort 
 which grows near it. It has a very large church, in which 
 aie fixteen ftalls, fuppofed to have been made for the clergy 
 who attended the archbifhops of Canterbury, to whom the 
 manor formerly belonged, and who had a palace here, till 
 Simon Iflip, the archbifhop, in the fourteenth century, pulled 
 it down, and built another at Maidftone : the rectory is, how- 
 ever, ftill reckoned one of the beft livings in Kent. It has a 
 market on Tuefdays, and one annual fair. Several pieces of 
 antiquity have been dug up here, particularly fome military 
 weapons. It is mentioned in Doomfday-Book. 
 
 Wye is. diftant fifty-feven miles from London, and {lands 
 upon the river Stour, over which it has a bridge. Here is a 
 church, which was formerly collegiate, and has been rebuilt 
 Isnce the year 1706, the old one having been almoft reduced to 
 ruins by the fall of the tower. Here is alio a charity-ichool, 
 founded by Lady Joanna Thornhill. This town has a har-» 
 bour for barges. 
 
 ISLE OF T H A N E T. 
 
 This is in the north-eafl part of the county, and lies open 
 to the fea on the north and eaft, with the river Wantfam on 
 the weft and fouth. It is about nine miles long and eight 
 broad, and in general very fertile, 
 
 Eaft Kent and theifle of Thanet, have long been reckoned 
 She befi- cultivated part of England, and thistradfcof country 
 has no flight pretenflons to that character. The drill hus- 
 bandry is very general here, and is carried on in a very com- 
 plete and judicious manner. The culture of hops through- 
 put Eaft Kent is a very important branch of hufbandry ; and 
 madder is here cultivated by farmers more than in any other 
 part of the kingdom. 
 
 Margate ftands on the north fide of the ifle of Thanet, 
 within a fmall bay, in a breach of the cliff, where is a gate to 
 the fea ? from whence it has its name. It is feventy*two miles 
 from London, and about fixteen from Canterbury. In fum- 
 
 3 C 2 rner 
 
388 KEN T. 
 
 mer it is a pleafant and agreeable fituation. Its principal 
 iireet runs north and fouth near a mile in length, and termi- 
 nates at the pier, with a gentle defcent, by which means the 
 ftreets are always neat and clean. But what has given Mar- 
 gate fuch eclat in the beautnonde is its convenience for bathing : 
 the fbore being level and of fine fand, is extremely well 
 adapted to this purpofe. On the wharf are feveral bathing 
 rooms, where the company refort to drink the water, and 
 from whence they enter info the machines, which are after- 
 wards drove out two or three hundred yards into the fea, under 
 the conduct of careful guides. There is a door in the machine, 
 which being opened, they defcend into the water, by means of 
 a ladder; an umbrella of canvas is let down, which conceals 
 them from public view. 
 
 Since Margate has been fo much frequented by the nobi- 
 lity and gentry, many confiderable additions and improvements 
 have been made to it. A large new fquare has been ere£ted, 
 confining of very convenient hoiiies for the accommodation, 
 of the nobility and gentry who refort to this place : the fquare 
 is paved after the fame manner as the flreets in London ; and 
 in it is a noble and commodious aflembly-rcom, finifhed with 
 great elegance and tafte$ and being eighty-feven feet in 
 length, and forty-three in breadth, is f uppofed to be the largeft 
 in England, and commands a delightful profpeel of the fea, — 
 Adjoining to this are very convenient apartments for cards 
 and tea. On the lower floor is a billiard table, and a large 
 loom for public entertainments, with a piazza which extends 
 the whole length of the building. In the upper floor are 
 ranges of bedchambers. The number of fubferibers to thefe 
 rooms have amounted to near a thoufand in a feafon. The 
 flmufements are conduced with great regularity. In the fquare 
 is an elegant tavern, which communicates with the room for 
 public entertainment. Befides the tavern in this fquare, there 
 is another, called The New Inn y fituated on the parade, where 
 are two hot fait water baths, which are (aid to have a very 
 faiutary efFedt. There is alfo a playhoufe here, Provifions 
 are very plentiful, and great quantities of fifh are daily caught. 
 In fliort, here is every requifite to render this place a genteel 
 and delightful fummerrefidence. 
 
 Two machines fet out for Canterbury every morning, to 
 meet the coaches from London, and return to Margate the 
 fame evening. The hoys fail from the Wool Quay, near the 
 
 Cuftom 
 
KENT. 
 
 389 
 
 Cuftorn Houfe, London, on Wednefday or Thurfday, and 
 with a weft-north-weft wind, fail to Margate in twelve hours ; 
 but when it is unfavourable, may be three days on their pafc 
 fage. They go from Margate on Fridays or Saturdays. The 
 fare is half a crown. They bring great quantities of goods 
 from London for this place and its neighbourhood. As a 
 proof of the fafety of this pafTage, there has nor. been a hoy 
 loft for upwards of one hundred and forty years. 
 
 Margate is under the fame jurisdiction as the port of Dover, 
 the mayor being reprefented here by a deputy, its church is 
 dedicated to St. John the Baptift, which was the ancient nams 
 of the parifti. It was formerly a chapel to Minfter church, 
 ar.d fuppofed to have been built about the year 1050, and mads 
 parochial fince the year 1290, It contains feveral ancient mo* 
 humerus. 
 
 About fix miles from Margate, to the right of the road 
 is the fmall town of Monkton or Monktown, fo called 
 from its being the property of the monks, who ufually refided 
 in this place. There are collegiate ftalls in the church, and 
 the heads of feveral priors in the remains of painted glafs in 
 the windows. The church has been larger than it now is. 
 
 On the right hand of Birchington, about four miles 
 from Margate, is the ancient but fmaL town of Minster* 
 Domneva, daughter of Ercombert, King of Kent, built and 
 founded an abbey at this place, about the year 670, and fur- 
 nifhed it with veiled virgins to the number of feventy ; her* 
 felf becoming the firft abbefs. Mildred, her daughter fuc- 
 ceeded her, and fo far excelled her mother in piety, that Ihe 
 was canonized a faint, and the nunnery ever after was called by 
 her name. It was deftroyed by theDanes about the year 990.—- 
 Minfter church, which is the moft ancient in the ifland, is a 
 handfome ftructure, confifting of tnree ifles. It has eighteen 
 collegiate ftails in the c».oir. On the floor, and in the cfrurch 
 porch, are feveral large flat grave ftones, which are very an- 
 cient. — -In the iaft century a pot of Roman filver coins were 
 ploughed up near Minfter : the coins were chiefly of Lucius 
 Aurelius Verus, 
 
 The fmall village of Sarre is the firft village a traveller 
 comes to in this ifland* This was formerly a large town, en- 
 dowed 
 
39° 
 
 KENT. 
 
 dowed with the privileges of a Cinque Port, and dill belongs 
 to Sandwich. The paflage into this ifland is at this place, 
 over a nai row ftream. 
 
 To the left of the road, and fix miles from Margate, is the 
 church of St, Nicholas^ which is an handfome building, but 
 there are no monuments in it prior to the year 1500. 
 
 Birchlngion is a member of the town and port of Dover, 
 The church is a neat building, and contains feveral ancient 
 and modern monuments of *the Queke and Crifpe families, 
 who tefided at the ancient manlion in this pari (h, called 
 ^uekesox 2)uex. At this houfe king William the Tfiird ufed . 
 torefide, until the winds favoured his embarking for Holland. 
 A room, faid to have been the bedchamber of this royal gueft, 
 is ftill (hewn, together with an adjacent inclofurs in which 
 his guards encamped. 
 
 Eetween Minfter and Margate is Cleave Courts an elegant 
 building belonging to 1. Farrer, Efq. 
 
 Beyond Minfter are fomedown?, which are much celebrated 
 for affording extenfive and delightful profpe&s. Canterbury 
 cathedral, the ifle of Shepey, the Efiex fhore, Dover cliffs, 
 and the town of Sandwich, may be each diftin£iiy difcerned 
 from this pleafant fpot.— From thefe downs (as the monks in- 
 form us) ftarted Domneva's deer, which ran in an irregular 
 courfe, quite acrofs the ifland, in the ancient maps of which 
 this tract is marked. King Egbert gave Domneva fo much 
 ground as the deer would run over at one courfe * 9 which cut 
 off the eaft end of the ifland, where Hie built her nunnery. 
 This tract, from the name of her daughter, was called St.* Mil- 
 dred's Lynch) and was a bank of earth thrown up defcribing 
 the ancient bounds of the two great manors of Mpnktoa ancj 
 Minfter, and is yec vifible in forne places. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 On the brow of a hill near Eritb, fituated on the banks of 
 the Thames, is Belvedere Houfe 9 a very agreeable feat, be- 
 longing to Sir Sampfon Gideon, Bart. Xt commands a vaft 
 
 * extent 
 
^H&i'i""' 
 
 K E N T. S9 1 
 
 extent of a fine country many miles beyond the Thames, 
 which is about a mile and an half diftant. This river and its 
 
 lyfaavigation add greatly to the beauty of this fcene, which ex* 
 hibits to the eye of the fpeflator a mod pleafingand delight- 
 ful iandfcape. The innumerable (hips employed in the im- 
 menfe trade of London, are beheld continually failing up and 
 down the river. On the other fide are profpecls not lefs beau- 
 tiful, though of another kind. The proprietor of this feat 
 has very judicicufly laid out his grounds,and made many beau- 
 
 Ptiful viftas* The houfe is but fmall, though an addition has 
 been made of a very noble room ; this and two others are 
 finely furnifbed with a valuable collection of pictures by the 
 greateft mafters ; amongft which are the following : A por- 
 trait of Sir John Gage, by Hans Holbein | St. Catherine, by 
 Leonardo da Vinci ; Rembrandt painting an old woman, by 
 faimfeir; Snyders with his wife and child, by Rubens ; boors 
 at cards?, by Teniers; the marriage in Cana of Galilee, by 
 Paul Veronefe ; the genealogy of Chrifr, by Albert Durer; 
 Herod confulting the wife men, by Rembrandt j and Mars 
 and Venus, by Paul Veronefe. 
 
 At Foot's Cray 9 which is about twelve miles from London, 
 Mr. Harence has a very fine feat, which was built by the late 
 Bouchier Cleve, Efq; after a defignof Palladio, of the Ionic 
 g; order, and is very elegant. The original defign had four por- 
 , ticos, three of which are filled up in order to gain more room. 
 \ The hall is o&agonal, and has a gallery round, which conveys 
 I you !o the bed-chambers. It is enlightened from the top, and 
 I is very beautiful. The edifice is built of ftone^ but the offi- 
 I; ces, which are on each fide at fome difiance, are of brick. The 
 houfe ftands on a riling ground, with a gradual defcent from 
 i it till you come to the water, which from the houfe appears to 
 be a fmall river gliding along through the whole length of the 
 ground ; and in that part of the water which is oppofite to 
 the houfe, there is a fine cafcade conftantly flowing out of it. 
 But this water, which appears to be fuch a pretry natural 
 fiream, and which has fo pleafmg an effect, is in reality arti- 
 ficial, and is brought from the river Cray, which runs juft by. 
 When the canai or cut, which is made through the ground to 
 receive the water from the river, is full, it forms the cafcade s 
 before the houfr*., by flowing ever in that place, and the fur- 
 plus water being infiantly buried in the ground, is again con- 
 veyed 
 
392 KEN T. 
 
 veyed under this cut or canal to the main ftream. The chief 
 beauty of the ground about the houfe confiits in its fimplicity, 
 it being entirely without ornament, and. the whole of it a kind 
 of lawn, having little befides the plain turf. The fuuation 
 is pleafant, and the profpe<3 from the houfe very good. The 
 difpofition of the rooms within the houfe appears to be very 
 convenient, and the feveral apartments are elegantly finiihed. 
 The gallery, which extends the whole length of the north 
 front of the houfe, is a very grand room, and is filled with pic- 
 tures by the mod eminent matters. 
 
 The manfion called Stone Cafile is to the right of the road 
 between Dartford and Gravefend. The ancient ftrudture is 
 oone to ruins, and a modern building erected in its place, which 
 is now the habitation of John Talbot, Efq* 
 
 Beyond the eighteenth mile-ftone. on the left hand, is the 
 feat of the late John Calcraft, Efq. The houfe is very con- 
 venient, and the gardens beautifully romantic. From afpa- 
 cious and elegant room at the weft end ot the houfe, as well 
 as from various parts of the gardens, the eye is entertained 
 with views of the river and the ElTex fliore, that are perfectly 
 enchanting ; and upon the whole it is one of the moft de- 
 lightful fpots on the banks of the Thames. 
 
 Near Northfleet, between the road and the Thames, is the 
 feat of Thomas Chiffinch, Efqj which is pleafantly fituated. 
 
 Near Eltham Sir John Shaw has a feat and plantations, 
 which do honour to that gentleman's elegant tafte. 
 
 On the eaft of the village of Lewifham lie the pleafant 
 gardens of Mr. Blackvvell, banker; they take in the vaH.ey 
 and the hill above it, to which the afcent is through a beauti- 
 ful fhrubbery ; and from the fummit of the hill you com- 
 mand a very rich profpedt on all fides, with the public Tun- 
 bridge road at a quarter of a mile diftance in the bottom. 
 
 Near the village of Shorne is Cobham Hall 9 M ancient and 
 noble ftruclure, the original manfion of the Cobham family, 
 but now the refidence of the Earl of Darnley. In a large 
 room in this houfe are the arms of Queen Elizabeth, and a 
 
 memorandum 
 
KENT. 
 
 393 
 
 memorandum of her having been entertained there by the 
 then proprietor of this feat. The houfe was built by Inigo 
 Jones, and is remarkable for the excellent marble chimney- 
 pieces in mod of the rooms, Here is an extenfiye park, well 
 flocked w?th deer. 
 
 A little to the left of Gad's Hill, on an eminence, U the 
 feat of the late Sir Francis Head, Bart, called The Hermitage*, 
 and clofe to the road, on a fmall afcent, is a neat building 
 erecled by Mr. Day. 
 
 At a little diftance from Feverfliam Lord Sondes has an ele- 
 gant feat, known by the name'of Lees Courts and in this 
 neighbourhood is alfo Na[h Courts the handfome and pleafant 
 feat of the Hawkins's family, with a balluftrated terrace on 
 its top, fronted with a green park* in which are beautiful plan- 
 tations. 
 
 At a little diflance from Margate is a feat built by Lord 
 Holland, in imitation of an Italian villa, with a noble portico 
 fronting the fea. It contains fevera! elegant apartments, with 
 a variety of marble columns, bufts, vafesi &c. brought from 
 Italy. His Lordfhip has alfo erected with chalk {tones feverai 
 buildings refembling Gothic towers, convents, &c. in ruins, 
 and planted ivy round them to increafs the deception. 
 
 Near this feat are Hackendown Banks, or The Field of Bat- 
 tle Axes, being the place where a fierce battle was fought in 
 the year 854, between the Danes and Anglo-Saxons, which 
 conflict was fa near the cliff, that many fell into the fea ; and 
 forne hiftorians fay, that both commanders were flain, and the 
 vidtory doubtful. Here are two barrows or hills of earth, 
 thought to have been the tombs of certain great officers killed 
 in that battle. Thefe barrows were opened fome years fince, 
 and found to contain bodies bent together, and thrufl into 
 graves dug out of the chalk, a little below the furface, but 
 not above three feet long. Several earthern urns, containing 
 about two or three quarts, were alfo found, in which were 
 aflies and charcoal, but they would not bear the air. Lord 
 Holland has erected a monument, with an infeription, in the 
 ftyle of antiquity, to perpetuate this adtion. 
 Vol,. I. 3 D There 
 
39+ 
 
 KENT. 
 
 There are feveral noblemen's and gentlemen's featfc on 
 Blackheath, particularly thofe of the Duke of Montagu, the 
 Earl of Chefterfield, the Earl of Dartmouth, and Lord Vif- 
 count Falkland, which greatly contribute to render that place 
 as delightful as it is healthy. 
 
 Not far from Morden College is a noble houfe built by the 
 late Sir Gregory Page, Bart, This is a very magnificent edi- 
 fice, built in the modern tafte, confifting of a bafement, ftate, 
 and attic ftory. The wings contain the offices and (tables, 
 which are joined to the body of the houfe by a colonade. It 
 ftands in the midft of a park, with a large piece of water be- 
 fore it. The back front has an Ionic portico of four columns, 
 but having no pediment does not make fo agreeable a figure as 
 might be wifhed. This is one of the fineft feats in England 
 belonging to a private gentleman ; and the gardens, park, and 
 country around, render it a moft delightful feat : Yet this fine 
 edifice was begun, rai fed, and covered, in the fpace of eleven 
 months. 
 
 , On the fouth- fide of Blackheath, in the village of Lee, iV 
 thepleafant houfe and gardens of Henry Pelham, Efq; and in 
 the flreet of Lee are the houfes of the Hon. Henry Roper, 
 cf David Papilion, Efq; and of feveral other people of fa- 
 £h;on 3 and on the north fide of the lireet, is an old feat of the 
 Boone family, with the remains of a grove, and a pleafanc 
 piece of water in the ground adjoining. 
 
 Between the village of Lee, Eltham, and Chiflehurft, is 
 an hamlet called Modingham* in which is a fmall feat of Lord 
 Bath-urft, with pleafant grounds about it; the beauty of the 
 whole is owing to his lordfliip's improvements; and here is 
 alfo a very old rnanfion whicn belonged to the ancient family of 
 the Stoddards* 
 
 Between Lee, and the fummis of the hill, next Blackheath, 
 are the elegant gardens and pleafmre grounds belonging to the 
 villa of the late Sir Samuel Fludyer, Bare, which are now the 
 property of his daughter. The houfe is not large, but has a 
 very handfome apartment upon the firii: floor, towards the 
 gatdens and pleafure grounds $ and the profpeAs from thefe 
 rooms to Shooter's Hill, Eltham, aad Lee, and into Sir Gre- 
 gory 
 
KENT. 
 
 395 
 
 gory Page's beautiful grounds and park, with the woods of 
 Greenwich Park fkirting the view to the north, are moil pic- 
 turefque and beautiful. The front of the houfe commands 
 the Dulwich hills, with Lewifham church placed in the very 
 centre of the view below therm 
 
 In the parifh of Walderfhire, which is fix miles and an 
 half from Sandwich, the Earl of Guildford has a very ele- 
 gant and pleafant feat. To the weft of the houfe is erected a 
 high belvidere, which commands a beautiful and extenfive 
 view of the country. 
 
 On the right of Barham Downs is Denhlll Houfe and Gar- 
 dens, the feat of Lady Gray ; and near it, in the fmall village 
 of Wymlingfwood, is Netherfole Houfe, the manfion of — 
 Winchefter, Efq. 
 
 Near Eeakefborne, Sir Thomas Pym Hales has a fine feat, 
 known by the name of Howlets* 
 
 In the parifh of Chefilhurft is Camden Place, the feat of 
 Lord Camden. It is a very handfome and agreeable retreat ; 
 and over a well in the lawn near the houfe, his Lordfhip has 
 erecled, under the direction of Mr. Stuart, the celebr ated piece 
 of architecture, called The Ldntborn of Demojlbenes, on the 
 fame fcale as the original, from an actual drawing made by 
 that gentleman in Greece. 
 
 Coomb Bank) about fix miles from Sevenoke, is the pleafant 
 feat of his Grace the Duke of Argyle* It poffeffes a very 
 delightful fituation, which has received great additions and 
 improvements from the prefent noble owner* 
 
 Danfon Hill, about eleven miles from London, in the 
 parifh of Bexley, is the elegant and new builtfeat of Sir John 
 Boyd, Bart. The houfe is a pleafing uniform building, with 
 handfome wings, and contains fome fine apartments. The 
 grounds are very beautifully difpofed, and adorned with a very 
 grand fheet of water; which, with woods, plantations, and 
 agreeable inequalities of furface, form a very delightful fcene. 
 The houfe prefents itfelf to the view of every traveller, be* 
 tween the ten and eleven mile flones on the Dover road. 
 
 3 D 2 Adjoining 
 
3 q6 KENT. 
 
 Adjoining to River-head, a fma!I village near Sevenoke, is 
 Montreal, the feat of Lord Amherft, Baron FJoImefdale, 
 which is the name of the valley wherein it is fituated. In 
 the park is a column erected to perpetuate the happy meet- 
 ing of this noble Lord and his brother, who, after having been 
 engaged on different eminent and perilous fervices in diiftant 
 parts of the globe during the yvar before laft, and gained ho- 
 nour both to themfelves and their country, were permitted, by 
 the grace of Heaven, to embrace each other oq their native 
 fpot. Here is alfo a very beautiful hermitage. 
 
 Tenjhurjl is three miles fouth-weft of Tunbridge, and was 
 the ancient feat of the noble family of Sidney, but at prefent 
 of William Perry, Efq. This feat was forfeited to the crown 
 by the attainder of one of the Vane family, who followed the 
 fortune of the unhappy Somerfet in the reign of King 
 Edward the Sixth. That Monarch bellowed it upon the 
 father of Sir Henry Sidney, in whole arms he expired. This 
 facl is mentioned in-an infenptioq over the gate of the tower, 
 through which you pafs into the court-yard, which is a very 
 large ancient quadrangle of hewn ftpne, and vyas fortified in 
 old times, being reckoned a place of great firength. Here 
 are many more rooms than are fnewn to grangers : thofe thac 
 are opened are well furniftied,and contain good pictures, tables, 
 pillars, and vafes of fine marble brought lately from Italy, 
 u*e;i worthy the infpecYion of the curious. The houfe lies 
 very low, and clofe to a mean village, of great antiquity, of 
 the fame name. A powerful family, named Penfhurft or Pen-* 
 chefter was fettled here in the time of William the Conqueror, 
 which has been long extinct. The park, which was formerly 
 very confiderable, is at prefent but fmall, being inclofed and 
 divided into farms. — The famous Sir Philip Sidney was born 
 here \ and it was here the celebrated Waller wrote many of 
 his beft pieces, under the aufpices of Lady Dorothy Sidney, 
 whom he has immoitalized by the name of SaccharilTa. This 
 Lady was daughter to Sidney Earl of Leiccfter, to whom 
 Penfhurft then belonged; and wife to Henry Lord Spencer, 
 created Earl of Sunderland by King Charles the Firlr, ia 
 whofe defence he was fiain, gallantly fighting at Newbury. 
 
 Not far from Penfliurft is a noble ftruclure, mouldering 
 into ruins, called Somcr Hlll ? which ftands very high, and has 
 
 a moft 
 
K E N T. 
 
 a moftextenfive command of country. It anciently belonged 
 to the Earls of Hertford and Gloucester, Somer Hill bdng 
 forfeited to the crown by Stafford Duke of Buckingham, was 
 given by Queen Elizabeth to Sir Francis Walfingham, with 
 whofe daughter it paffed into the hands of three great families ; 
 for (he was married to three different hufbands. Her firft was 
 the renowned Sir Philip Sidney; her fecond., the unfortunate 
 Earl of Effex ; and her third Ulick de Burgh, Marquis of 
 Clanrickard, Earl of St. Alban's, Vifcount Tunbridge, and 
 Baron Scmer Hii!, bne of the mod remarkable and accom- 
 plifhed noblemen of King Charles the Firft's time. King 
 Charles the Secagd, who ufed to come fpmetimes £0 Tun* 
 bridge, kept his refinue at Somer HilU 
 
 Mereworth Cajlle is fituated two miles fouth-eafi: of MaU 
 ling; it was formerly the (eat of the Earl of Weilmoreland, 
 but is now in the pofieilion of Lord Defpenfer. It is efteemed 
 a very fine piece of architecture, and was defigned by Colin 
 Campbell, in imitation of a palace in Italy, built by the fa- 
 mous Palladio.^ It is a fquare, extending eighty-eight feet, 
 and has four porticos of the Ionic order. In the middle there 
 life's above the roof a femi-circular dome, which has two 
 fhells; the one forms the ttucco-cieling of the faloon, being 
 thirty-fix feet in diameter ; the outward fheil is carpentry, co- 
 vered with lead : between chefe two fhells is a flrong brick 
 arch, that brings twenty-four funnels to the lanthorn,, which 
 is finifhed with copper; but by this contrivance there is oc« 
 cafioned an inconvenience — the chimneys often fmoke» 
 
 At Knowle, in the neighbourhood of Sevenoke, the Duke 
 of Dorfet has a fine feat ; the park and gardens belonging tq 
 which are laid out in a very elegant manner. 
 
 At Hayes, near Bromley, is the feat of the late ilhiftrious 
 Earl of Chatham. The houfe, though not large and regular, 
 is ekgant and pleafing, and fo embofomed in plantations, laid 
 out with the greateit tafte, as to be quite excluded from pub- 
 lic view. It was the favourite refidenceof the late Earl, and 
 is now chiefly inhabited by his Countefs. 
 
 Near Weftramis a very noble feat, which was begun to be 
 built by a private gentleman ; but it was finiflicd by the late 
 
 Earl 
 
398 KEN T, 
 
 Earl of Jerfey, and called Squirries. The houfe ftands on a 
 fmall eminence with refpect to the front ; but on the back of 
 the edifice the houfe rifes very high, and is divided into feveral 
 flopes. Near the houfe are feme woods, through which are 
 cut fevera! ridings. On the other fide of the hill, behind the 
 houfe, arife nine fprings, which, uniting their ftreams, forn* 
 the river Darent. 
 
 On the eaft fide of Blackheath ftands Morden-College % 
 credited for the fupport of poor decayed merchants, by Sir 
 John Morden, Bart, a Turkey merchant, feveral years before 
 his death, which happened in the year 1708. It confifts of a 
 large brick building, with two fmall wings, ftrengthened at 
 the corners with ftone ruftic. The principal entrance, which j 
 is in the centre, is decorated with Doric columns, feftoons, 
 find a pediment on the top, over which rifes a turret, with a 
 dial 5 and from the dome, which is fupported by fcrolls, rifes a 
 ball and fane. To this entrance there is an afcent by a flight 
 of circular fteps ; and having afcended them, and paffed 
 through this part of the building, we enter an inner fquare, 
 furrounded with piazzas. The chapel is neatly wainfeotted, 
 and has a coftly altar-piece ; and it has a burying-ground ad- 
 joining, for the members of the college. The rounder, by 
 his own delire, was buried in a vault under the communion 
 table of the chapel. Sir John Morden erecled his college at 
 a fmall diftance from his own habitation, in a place called 
 Great Stone Field, and endowed it, after his Lady's deceafe, 
 with his whole real copyhold and perfonal eftate, to the value of 
 about one thoufand three hundred pounds a year. He placed in 
 this hofpital, twelve decayed Turkey merchants in his life- 
 time ; but, after his deceafe, Lady Morden, finding that the 
 fhare allotted her by Sir John's laft will, was not fufficient for 
 her decent fupport, fome parts of theeftate notanlwering fo 
 well as had been expe&ed, (he was obliged to reduce the num- 
 ber to four. But on her death the whole eftate coming to the 
 college, the number was increafed, and there are at this time 
 thirty-five poor gentlemen; and the number not being limited, 
 it is to be increafed as the eftate will afford j for the building 
 will conveniently hold forty. The treafurer is allowed forty 
 pounds a year; and the chaplain, who reads prayers twice a 
 day, and preaches twice every Sunday, had at firft a falary of 
 thirty pounds per annum, which Lady Morden doubled at her 
 
 death 
 
KENT. 
 
 death. This lady was in feveral refpecls a benefa&refs to the 
 college; and as (he put up her hufband's ftatue in a niche over 
 the gate, the truftees have put up her's in another niche, ad- 
 joining to that of her hufband. The treafurer, chaplain, and 
 penfioners, are obliged to refide in the college; and except in 
 cafes of ficknefs, no other perfons are to refide, live, or lodge 
 there ; but no perfon can be admitted as a penfioner who can- 
 not make it appear that he is above fixty years of age. The 
 penfioners have each twenty pounds a year, and at- firft wore 
 gown?, with the founder's badge ; but this badge has not 
 been worn for fome years. They have a common table in the 
 hall to eat and drink together at meals ; and each has a con- 
 venient apartment, with a cellar. Seven Turkey merchants 
 have the direction of this hofpital, and the nomination of 
 perfons to be admitted into it : to them the treafurer is ac- 
 countable, and whenever any of thefe die, the farming truf- 
 tees chufe others in their Head. 
 
 Depiford is a large and populous place in the county of Kent^ 
 about four miles and an half from London. It was anciently 
 called Weji Greenwich ; and is faid to have received its pre- 
 fent name, from its having a deep ford over the little river 
 Ravenfbourn, near its influx into the Thames, where it has 
 now a bridge. It is divided into Upper and Lower Deptford, 
 which contain together two churches, feveral meeting-houfes, 
 and about one thoufand nine hundred houfes. It is rnoft re- 
 markable for its noble dock, where the royal navy was for- 
 merly built and repaired, till it was found more convenient to 
 build the large (hips at places where there is a greater depth of 
 water ; bat notwithftanding this, the yard is enlarged to more 
 than double its former dirnenfions, and a vail number of hands 
 are conftantly employed. It has a wet dock of two acres for 
 fhips, and another of an acreand an half, with vail: quantities 
 of timber and other ftores, and extenfive buildings, as ftore- 
 houfes and offices fortheufeof the place; befides dwelling- 
 houfes for thcfe officers who are obliged to live upon thefpor, 
 in order to fuperintend the works. Here the royal yachts are 
 generally kept; and near the dock is the feat of Sir John 
 JKveiyn, called Says Court, where chat juiHy celebrated Prince, 
 Peter the Great, Czar of Mufcovy, reiided for fome time 5 
 and in this yard compleated his knowledge and fkiiiinthe 
 practical part ot naval architecture. 
 
 la 
 
K £ 1*. 
 
 In this town are two hofpitals, one of which was incor- 
 porated by Henry the Eighth, in the form of a college, for 
 the ufe of feamen, and is commonly called Trinity Houfe 
 of Deptford Strond : this contains twenty^one houfes, and is 
 fstuated near the church. The other, called Trinity Hofpital^ 
 has thirty-eight houfes fronting the ftreet, This is a very 
 harvdfome edifice, and has large gardens, well kept, belonging 
 to it. Though this lalt is the fineft ftructure, yet the other 
 has the preference, on account of its antiquity and as ths 
 brethren of the Trinity hold their corporation by that houfe, 
 they are obliged at certain times to meet there for bufinefs.— " 
 Both the houfes are for decayed pilots, or mairers of fhips, or 
 their widows ; the men being allowed twenty fhillings, and 
 the women fixteeri ihillings a month. 
 
 Trinity < Houfe was <ouncied in the year 1515, by Sir Thomas 
 Spert, Knight, commander cf the great fliip Hertry Grace de 
 Dieu, and comptroller of the navy, for the regulation of fea- 
 men, and the convenience of fhips and mariners on our coaft, 
 and incorporated, as* we obfer'ved, by Henry the Eighth, v^ho 
 confirmed to fbgm not only the ancient rights and privileges 
 of the cotoparty of mariners of England, but ■ their fever al 
 pofleffions at Deptford ; which, together with the grants of 
 Queen Elizabeth and King Charles theSecond, were alfo con- 
 firmed by letters patent of thefirftof King James the Second, in 
 1685* The ma#er, wardens, alfiftants, a,nd elder brethren of 
 this corporation, are by charter inverted with the power of ex- 
 amining the mailers of his Majefty's (hips, and alfo the 
 mathematical children of Chriit's Hofpital, of appointing 
 pilots to conduit fivips in and out of the river Thames j and 
 of amercing all fuch as fhall prefume to aft as matters of 
 fhipsof war or pilots without their approbation. It is their 
 bufinefs^alfo to fettle the feveral rates of pilotage, and erect 
 light-houfes and other tea-marks-, upon the feveral coafts of 
 the kingdom, for the fecurity of navigation ; to which light- 
 houfes all (hips pay one half-penny per ton. Th£y are like- 
 wife empowered to grant licences to poor feamen, not free of 
 the city, to row on the river Thames for their fupporr, in the 
 intervals of fea-fervice, or when part going to fea; and to 
 prevent aliens from ferving on board Englifh fhips, without 
 their licence, upon the penalty of five pounds for each offence. 
 They arelikewife authorized to punifh feamen for defertion or 
 mutiny in the merchants lervicej and to hear and determine 
 
KENT. 
 
 the complaints of officers and feamen in the merchants fervice ; 
 but fubjecr to an appeal to the Lords of the Admiralty, or the 
 Judge of the Court of Admiralty. To this company belongs 
 the Ballaft Office for clearing and deepening the river Thames, 
 by taking from thence a fufficient quantity of ballaft for the 
 fupply of all (hips that fail out of that river 5 in which fer- 
 vice fixty barges, with two men in each, are conftantly em- 
 ployed, and all (hips that take in ballaft pay them one (hilling 
 a ton, for which it is brought to the fhips fides. 
 
 We have been the more particular in enumerating the 
 powers and the bufinefs of this corporation, becaufe its autho- 
 rity and powers are of fo extenfive a nature, and of fo much 
 importance to us as a maritime ftate. We fhall, therefore* 
 further obferve* that there are annually relieved by this com- 
 pany about three thoufand poor feamen, their widows, and 
 orphans ; and this, as it is faid, at the expence of about fix 
 thoufand pounds. They meet frequently at their houfe in 
 Water-Lane, Thames-ftreet, generally on Wednefdays and Sa« 
 turdays ; but their courts are not conftantly fixed to a fet time. 
 Their houfe in Water-Lane has been twice burnt down, once 
 at the fire of London, and the laft time in 1718. Among 
 the curiofities preferved in the hall of this building is a 
 flag taken from the Spaniards by the famous Sir Francis 
 Drake, whofe picture is alfotherei alfo a large and exadl model 
 of a (hip entirely rigged, and two large globes ; and in the 
 parlour are five large drawings, curioufly performed by the pen, 
 of feveral engagements at fea in the reign of Charles the 
 Second. 
 
 Chatham is a fuburb to Rochefter, and perhaps the com- 
 pleateft naval arfenal in the world. It affords a fight, equally 
 noble and pleafing to every one who is feniib'e how mucri the 
 fafety and profperity of this nation depends on its maritime 
 flrength. It has been brought to its prefent ftate of perfe&ion 
 by degrees, the dock having been begun by Queen Elizabeth^ 
 and continually improved by her 'fucceflbrs. 
 
 This celebrated dock-yard, including the ordnance wharf, 
 is about a mile in length; it is ranged on the fouth-eaft hde of 
 the river, and is adorned with many elegant buildings, inha- 
 bited by the commiffioner and principal officers belonging to 
 the yard, which well become the opulence of the nation and 
 the importance of the navy. Here are many neat and com* 
 
 Vol, l % 3 E modious 
 
K E N T. 
 
 modious offices for tranfa&ing the bufinefs of the yard; alfo 
 fpacious ftorehoufes (one of which is fix hundred and fixty 
 feet in length) and work rooms, which, by their amplitude^ 
 manifeft their prodigious contents, and the extenfive works 
 carried on within them. 
 
 The fail loft, in which the fails are made, is two hundred 
 and nine feet in length. Jn thefe magazines are depofited 
 amazing quantities of fails, rigging, hemp, flax, pitch, tar, 
 rofin, oil, and every ingredient neceflary for the building and 
 equipping of Ihips. The coils of cordage and heaps of blocks^ 
 with innumerable other articles, are arranged with fuch order, 
 that on any emergency, they may be taken out without the 
 leaft confufion. — To every apartment proper officers and at* 
 tendants areafiigned, for the more expeditious difpatch of bu- 
 finefs, fo that even a firft or fecond rate (hip of the line is often 
 equipped for fea in a few weeks. 
 
 The mafts are carefully depofited in ftorehoufes peculiarly 
 adapted for them ; one of which, in this yard, is two hundred 
 and thirty-fix feet in length, and one hundred and twenty feet 
 wide. Some of thefe mafts are near one hundred and twenty 
 feet long, and thirty-fix inches in diameter. There are alfo 
 two fpacious bafons of water, in which thefe mafts are kept 
 continually floating. 
 
 The fmith's fhop contains twenty-one fires. Here the an- 
 chors are made, fome of which weigh near five tons. 
 
 In an extenfive rope-houfe, which is upwards of (even 
 hundred feet in length, large quantities of hemp are twifted 
 into cables one hundred and twenty fathoms long, and fome of 
 them twenty-two inches round. 
 
 In this yard are four deep and wide docks, for decking and 
 repairing large ftiips. In one of thefe docks was built the Vic- 
 tory, a firft rate, one of the largeft fliips in the univerfe, car- 
 rying one hundred and ten guns. There are alfo four flips and 
 launches, on which new (hips are conftantly building. 
 
 The ordnance wharf is fituated to the fouth of the dock- 
 yard, between Chatham church and the river, and was the 
 original naval yard. The guns belonging to thelhips in this 
 river are here depofited in long tiers : fome of thefe guns 
 weigh fixty-five hundred weight each. Large pyramids of 
 (hot are to be feen on different parts of this wharf. 
 
 T here are alfo capacious ftore-houfes, in which are depo- 
 fited prodigious quantities of offenfive weapons* as mufkets,. 
 
 piftoiSj 
 
KENT* 
 
 403 
 
 .piflols, cutlafles, pikes, pole-axes, &c. &c. The armoury is a 
 curious aflemblage of every kind of hoftiie weapons, arranged 
 i admirable order. 
 
 To defend this vafl: naval magazine there is a flrong gar- 
 .Tifonac Sheernefs, the entrance into the Medway. A fort is 
 alfoeredled at Gillingham. For the further fecurity of this 
 yard ramparts are thrown up. 
 
 That which is called The Ghejl, at Chatham, was inftituted 
 in 1588, the memorable year of the defeat of the Spanifh Ar- 
 mada; when, by the advice of Sir Francis Drake, Sir John 
 Hawkins and others, the feamen in the ferviceof Qaeen Eli- 
 zabeth, voluntarily afligned a portion of each man's pay to 
 the relief of their wounded fellows ; which method being 
 .confirmed by the Queen, has been continued ever fince. 
 
 Two annual fairs are held at Chatham, one on the 15th of 
 May, and the other on the 19th of September. 
 
 About four miles from Rochefter ftands the pleafant village 
 of Shorne, the church belonging to which has feveral ancient 
 monuments in it, efpecially of the Cobham family* 
 
 In Cobham Church are feveral ancient and curious monu- 
 ments of the Cobham family. Near the church is a college, 
 founded about the year 1389, by John de Cobham, and fup- 
 preffed by King Henry the Eighth. But it was founded anew, 
 on a reformed plan, by Sir William Brooke (afterwards Lord 
 Cobham} in 1597, Twenty poor perfons,. with their fami- 
 lies, are admitted into this college, from the adjacent parifhes. 
 
 On the other fide of the London road is the pari/h of 
 Higham^ where was a nunnery of the Benedi&ine order. 
 
 Near Higham are the remains of the ancient town cf Clifue 
 at Hoo 9 now called Cliffy by many writers fuppofed to have been 
 the Clovejhoe, where io many councils were heid during the 
 Saxon heptarchy. 
 
 Not far from Cliff is Cooling Cajlle 9 erected by John Lord 
 Cobham, about the year 1380 \ ic being granted to him by 
 King Richard the Second, which grant he caufed to be cut on 
 a large ftone, and placed on the front of the cartle — part of ic 
 is ftiil vifibie. This caftle was a place of confiderable ftrength, 
 
 3 E 2 and 
 
404 K E N T« 
 
 and furrounded by a deep moat. Two round towers, which 
 form the entrance, are ftill Handing, as are fome fragments of 
 towers erected for its defence in different parts of the waifs. 
 The pious and intrepid Sir John Oldcaftle, who in the reign 
 of Henry the Fifth fell a victim to papal cruelty, refided in 
 (hiscaflle: part of it is now a farm houfe. 
 
 About three miles from Rochefter, on the road towards 
 London, is Gad's Hill, fuppofed to have been the fcene of the 
 robbery mentioned by Shakfpear in his play of Henry the 
 Fourth. 
 
 Charlton is a pleafant and well built village, on the north 
 iide of Blackbeath, It is particularly famous for a difordeny 
 fair held in its neighbourhood on the 18th of O&ober, St. 
 Luke's Day, when the mob, who wear horns on their heads^ 
 ufed to take all kinds of liberties, and the lewd and vulgar 
 women who attended there gave aloofe to a|l manner of inde- 
 cency ; but thefe irregularities have of late years been much 
 retrained. This is called Horn Fair 9 and there are fold at is 
 rams horns, horn toys, and wares. ot all forts. Of this whim* 
 fica! fair, a vulgar tradition gives the following origin : It is 
 faid that King John, who had a palace at Eltham, in this 
 neighbourhood, being out a hunting near Charlton, which 
 was then a mean hamlet, was feparaied from his attendants $ 
 when entering a cottage, he found the miftrefs of it alone, who 
 being handfome, the King became enamoured of her, and as 
 Ihe was not tha moft rnodeft of her fex, he found means to 
 debauch her : but a in the mean time, her hufband came in a 
 and caught them in the fact $ and threatening to kill them 
 both, the King was forced to difcover himfelf, and to pur chafe 
 his fafety with gold* Befides which, he gave the hufband all 
 the land from thence as far as the place now called Cuckold's 
 Pointy and alfo beftowed on him the whole hamlet; eftablifh* 
 ing a fair, as a condition of his holding his new demefne, in 
 which horns were both to be fold and worn. A fermon is 
 preached on the fair day in che church, which is one of the 
 handfomeft in the county. It was beautified and repaired by 
 Sir Adam Newton, Bart, who was tutor to King James the 
 Fij ft's Ion, Prince Henry $ this manor being granted by this 
 Monarch to that gentleman* ■ 
 
KENT. 
 
 40$ 
 
 At the entrance of the village ftands the ancient manor* 
 houfe built by Sir Adam Newton. The two laft Earls of 
 Egmont inhabited this manfion fome years ago; but it is now 
 in the pofleffion of Mr. Jones, who married the heireis of it. 
 It is a ftately Gothic ftru&ure, with four turrets on the top ; 
 the court before the houfe is fpacious ; and there are two 
 large Gothic piers to the gates ; and on the outfi.de of the 
 wall is a long row of fome of the oldeft cyprefs trees in Eng- 
 land. Behind the houfe are large gardens, and beyond thefe 
 a fmall park, which joins to Woolwich Common. 
 
 Lee is a pleafant village on the fouth fide of Blackheath. 
 On the fummit of the hill ftands its ancient, but faull church. 
 The church-yard is neat, and much ornamented with colli/ 
 monuments of ftatuary and black marble. That great aftro- 
 nomer Dr. Edward Halley lies buried here under a plain table 
 tomb, with an infcription of fome length in Latin, In the 
 church, on the north of the communion table, is a. ftately 
 arched monument of alabaiter, fupported with columns of 
 black marble of the Corinthian order. The rectory houfe, 
 and that of Thomas Edlyne, Efq ; on the eminence near tha 
 church, command from every fide of them very pleating views, 
 the adjacent grounds being highly improved, and the near and 
 diftant profpedls enriched with feats ; farm-houfes, towns, aad 
 villages; the Kentifh and Dulwich hills in the front, and 
 Blackheath and Greenwich Park behind \ with an extenfive 
 view, over London and Weftminfter, of the Middkfex hiils, 
 Which bound the horizon to the nortn- weft. 
 
 Near the road from Dartford to Gravefend, is a large com- 
 mon called Dartford Brinks where Edward the Third held a 
 folemn tournament in the year 1331* Tne context between 
 the families of York and Lancatier began here, when Richard 
 Plantaganet, Duke of York, &c« in the year 1452, brought 
 together on this fpot an army of ten thbufand men. At pre- 
 fent it is the theatre of more peaceful icenes, as appears by 
 the booths ere&ed on a part of it, in which the fpe<5tators be* 
 hold the great cricket-matches that are played on this agree* 
 l?le fpot. 
 
 About half a mile to the left of the road, between Dart- 
 ford and Gravefend, is the venerable church of Stone 7 whica 
 Jias in it feveral ancient monuments* 
 
 The 
 
406 KENT, 
 
 The country about Greenhithe and Swanfcombe is famous 
 for being the rendezvous of the Danifli free-booters, who 
 drew their fleet into the inlet or rivulet that formerly was 
 pretty deep between the hills, on which Northfleet and S wanf- 
 cornb are fituated. 
 
 Swan/comb derives its name from a captain of the Danifii 
 free-hooters called Swein, who there pitched his camp, and 
 from whom it was denominated Swein'sCamp. There ftill 
 remain feveral fmail hills caft up by thefe free-booters, and cal- 
 led Sconces, being ftations for a fmall number of men em- 
 ployed as centinels, when their camp was here. Swanfcomb 
 is alfo faid to be the place, where the Kentifli men, fluttered 
 with boughs in their hands like a moving wood, furprized 
 William the Conqueror, and, throwing down their boughs, 
 threatened battle, if they had not their ancient cuftoms and 
 franchife?, which he thereupon granted them. There is a fair 
 held here on Whit-Tuefday. 
 
 The afcent from this valley to the village of Northfleet has 
 been lately made very eafy, and much improved. This vil- 
 lage ftands on an eminence near Gravefend, and is very an- 
 cient, being found recorded in Doornfday Book. The church 
 contains feveral ancient monuments. 
 
 Chefilhurftt or Chijkhurji, which is about three miles from 
 Bromley, is famous for being the retirement of our celebrated 
 Camden, who refided here for feveral years, and here com- 
 pofed the greateft part of his annals of the reign of Queen 
 Elizabeth. He died here in 1623, but his body was carried 
 to London, and buried in Weftminfter Abbey. At this place 
 alfo that great ftatefman, Sir Francis Walfingham, was born. 
 
 Eltham is a pleafant place, feven miles from London, in 
 the midway between Bromley and the Thames. It is full of 
 good houfes, and feme families of rich citizens inhabit here. 
 There was formerly a royal palace here, which fome fay was 
 built by Anthony Beck, Bifhop of Durham, who beftowed 
 it upon Queen Eleanor, the wife of Edward the Firft $ but 
 others fay there was a royal palace here before that time. 
 However, Edward the Second conftantly refided in this palace, 
 and his fon being born here 3 was on that account called John 
 
 of 
 
KENT. 
 
 .407 
 
 of Eltham. The palace here was much enlarged by the fuc- 
 ceeding Kin^s, who when the court was kept at Greenwich, 
 often retired hither. There are, however, no traces of the 
 palace now remaining. Here are two charity fchools. 
 
 Lezvijham is a pleafant village upon the Tunbridge road, 
 near three miles from Eltham, and fouth-weft of Blackheath. 
 >iear this village, upon the declivity of Blackheath, is a free- 
 fchool, for the benefit of feveral parifhes in the hundred of 
 Blackheath. It is now, and hath long fitice been a confider- 
 able boarding fchool, preferving at the fame time the original 
 inftitution. It was founded in the laft century by Abraham 
 Colfe, vicar of Lewifham, who bequeathed other charities to 
 the parifli of Lewifham. 
 
 About three miles from Feverfham is the antient villag;eof 
 Harbledoxvn^ the church of which is fituated on an hill weft 
 of the ftreet. Oppofite to the church is the hofpital and 
 chapel, originally buiit and endowed by Archbifnop Lan- 
 franc, about the year 1080, for the benefit of poor lepers. 
 This was the place that formerly h ;ld the precious relick, 
 called St. Thomas Beckefs Slipper, neatly fet in copper and 
 chryftal, mentioned by Erafmus. The numerous pilgrims to 
 the (hrine of St, Thomas ufed to flop here, and kifs his flip- 
 per,, as a preparation for their more folemn approach to his 
 tomb. Since the reformation, this hofpital is continued for 
 the relief of poor perfons. 
 
 About half a mile to the fouth of KingVgate, is Iht 
 North Foreland Light -houfe, for the direction of {hips by 
 night, to fecure them from the Godwin Sands and this head 
 land. It was formerly built of wood, but being burnt down, 
 the prefent ftrong flint odtagon was ere^ed about the begin- 
 ning of the prefent century; at its top is an iron grate, on 
 which a large coal fire blazes all night: For the fupportof 
 this light, the owner of every fhip belonging to Great Bri- 
 tain, that fails by this Foreland, pays two-peace per ton, and 
 every foreigner four-pence. 
 
 North Foreland is a point declared by aft of parliament to 
 be the moftfouthern part of the port of London, which by the 
 fame act is extended north in a right line, forming the mouth 
 of the Thames, to the point called The Nafe> on theeaf! of 
 
 Effex. 
 
4o8 KEN T< 
 
 Eflex. All the towns or harbours between London and thefc 
 places, whether on trie Kentifb or EfTex fhore, are called mem- 
 bers of the port of London* As foon as veffels have pafled 
 the South Foreland, out of the port of London, or any of its 
 members, they, are faid to be in the open fea ; if to the north 
 they enter the German Ocean $ if to the fouth the Britifa 
 Channel. 
 
 Near Dover Caftle there is a head of land called South 
 Foreland^ by way of diftin&ion from another head or promon- 
 tory, which forms the north-eaft point of the Kentifh fhore,and 
 is therefore called North Foreland. Thefe two points lying 
 at the diftance of fix miles from each other, are the two rrioii 
 cafterly in Kent; the coaft between them is fheltered by them 
 on the fouth and north, and by a bank of fand, running pa- 
 rallel to the fhore for three leagud3 together, and at the dif- 
 tance of a league and an half from it, called Godwin Sands, 
 on tneeafh Thus the South Foreland, North Foreland, God- 
 win Sands, and the coaft, form a tolerable good road for fhips, 
 which is called The Downs, and which would otherwife be 
 very dangerous, for the Godwin Sands, which are dry at low 
 water, break all the force of the fea on the eaft, fouth, and 
 fouth-weft ; yet when the wind blows exceffively hard at 
 fouth-eaft, eait-by- north, and eaft-north^eaft, fhips are driven 
 from their anchors, and forced afhore on the Godwin Sands, 
 or fent into Sandwich Bay, or Ramfgate Pier, near Sandwich. 
 
 Barham Downs, which are about fixty-two miles from Lon-* 
 don, are celebrated for the annual horfe rates which are there 
 exhibited* Several villages, and elegant gentlemen's feats, are 
 fituated on the right and left of the Downs ; on the right is 
 an eminence, and on the left a beautiful vale, in which runs 
 a fmall branch of the river Stour. To the left of the Downs, 
 is the village of Barham, which gives name to this delightful 
 fpot. The church has in it fome monuments of the Diggs 
 family, who refided at Diggs Court, in this parifh. 
 
 On Barham Downs is the fcite of an ancient camp, with 
 three ditches round it, which fome conjecture to be the work 
 of Julius Csefar, on his iecond expedition to this ifland. 
 About the year 1212, King John encamped here with an ar- 
 my of lixty thoufand men, to oppofe the French, who threat- 
 ened him with an invaiion* Simon Mom ford, Eari of Lei- 
 
 cefier, 
 
KENT. 
 
 cefter, alfo drew up a large army on thefe Downs in the reign 
 of Henry the Third, 
 
 About a mile from Sandwich, at a fmali diftance from the 
 road which leads to Dover, is the village of Woden/borough. 
 The church contains memorials of the Paramour and Beyre 
 families; and near it is a remarkable eminence, fuppofed to 
 have been raifed by the Saxons as a pedeftal for their idol Wo* 
 den, which flood upon ir, and from which the place derives ita 
 name. 
 
 In going from Dover to Folkftone, the traveller meets with 
 fix or feven very romantic miles; the road runs along the 
 edge of vaft precipices, the fhore very high and bold, and no- 
 bly varied. From the hill going down into Folkftone, ihe 
 view is extremely fine : You look down on a fine fweep of in- 
 clofures, many of them grafs, of the moft pleafing verdure. 
 The town, with its church on a point of land clofe to thefea. 
 The edge of the lower grounds defcribe as beautiful an outline 
 as can be imagined : The union of the land and fea complete. 
 As you defcend the hill, the profpecl extends to the right : 
 The vale opens, and fpreads to the view a fine range of inclo- 
 fures, bounded to the land by many hills, rifing in a great va- 
 riety of forms . The whole fcenery is very magnificent. 
 
 Rumney Marjb is the richeft tract of grazing land in this 
 part of the kingdom. It contains between forty and fifty thou* 
 fand acres of fruitful land, qn which vaft flocks of fheep, and 
 herds of black cattle are fattened, which are fent hither from 
 other parts, and fold in the London markets. The fheep are 
 reckoned larger than thofe of Lei cefter (hire and Lincoln/hire ; 
 and their bullocks are efteemed the largeft in England, efpe- 
 cially thofe they call flailed oxen, from their being kept all the 
 latter feafon within the farmers' yards, or fheds, where they 
 are fed for the winter feafon. This marfh is the place from 
 whence a fet of fmugglers, called Owlers, from their going 
 out in the dufk of the evening, have for many years exported 
 our wool to France. It is fuppofed to have been once covered 
 by the lea; and, as it is very unwhokfome, is but thinly in* 
 habited. 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 Five 
 
KENT. 
 
 Five miles from the town of Tunbridge, at the very edo;e of 
 the county, are Spelhurji Wells, more commonly called Tun- 
 bridge Wells, which are much frequented on account of their 
 mineral waters. Thefe wells are at the bottom of the walks, 
 which are handfomely paved : on one fide is the affembly- 
 room, the coffee- rooms, the bookfellers fhops, jewellers and 
 milliners fliops, and fhops for china, and for Tunbridge-ware, 
 which Is made hereto great perfection out of holly, cherry- 
 tree, and fycamore ; of which a great quantity grows here- 
 abouts. On the other fide of the walks are coffee-rooms, 
 another affembly-room, taverns, and lodging- houfes. The 
 mufic gallery is in the middle of the walks, which are beauti- 
 fully {haded with trees ; a piazza extends from the upper end 
 to the bottom, quite down to the wells. The houfes and 
 lodgings are very neat and commodious; moftcf them on the 
 hills contiguous, called Mount Sicn, Mount Ephraim, and 
 Mount PleafanU Here is a decent chapel, which was built 
 by fubfcription, and where divine fervice is performed every 
 day : the clergyman is paid by public contribution for his at- 
 tendance. Here is alfo a diflenting meeting-houfe. 
 
 The high rocks are about a mile from the walks, of which 
 there are a vaft number adjoining to each other, and feveral of 
 them are fcvcnty or eighty feet high ; and at many places 
 there are cliffs and cavities, that lead through them by narrow 
 dark pafTages ; and their being fifuated among the woods, by 
 a little winding brook, makes them afford a moft retired and 
 delightful fcene* 
 
 m 
 
 On the fouth fide of Greenwich lies Blackheath* a large 
 plain, fo called from theblacknefs of the foil. It is much ad- 
 mired for the beauty of its fkuation, and its excellent air ; 
 ahd has been rendered memorable by being the theatre of feve- 
 ral remarkable tranfa&Ions. It was here theDanifh army lay 
 a confiderable . time encamped in ion, and it was here that 
 the famous Wat Tyler, the Kentifli rebel muftered one hun- 
 dred thoufand men. Jack Cade ah'o, who ftiled bimfelf 
 John Mortimer, and laid claim to the crown, pretendfng that 
 he was kinfman to the Duke of York, encamped on this 
 heath for a month together^ with % large body of rebels, which 
 he had gathered together in this and the neighbouring coun- 
 ties, in 1451. And the following year Henry the Sixth 
 
 pitched 
 
K E N T. 411 
 
 pitched his royal pavilion here, having aflembled troops to 
 withftand the force of his coufin, Edward Duke of York, 
 who was afterwards Edward the Fourth And here againft 
 that King, did the baftard Falconbridge likewife encamp. 
 And in 1497, the Lord Audley ; Flemmock, an attorney ; 
 and Jofeph the blackfmith ; encamped on this place, in the 
 rebellion they raifed againft Henry the Seventh And here 
 that politic and warlike Frince routed them, killing above 
 two thoufand on the fpot, and taking about fourteen thousand 
 prifoners. 
 
 In 1415, the Lord Mayor and Aldermen of London, with 
 four hundred citizens in fcarlet, and with red and white hoods 
 on, came to Blackheath, where they met that viilorious 
 Prince, Henry the Fifth, who was juft returned from France 
 after the famous battle of Agincourt; and from Blackheath 
 they conduced his Majefty to London. And in 1474, the 
 Lord Mayor and Aldermen, attended by five hundred citizens, 
 alfo met Edward the Fourth here, on his return from France, 
 It appears a!fo to have been ufual formerly to meet foreign 
 Princes, and other perfons of high rank on Blackheath, 
 on their arrival in England. On the 21ft of December 141 1, 
 Maurice, Emperor of Conftantinople, who came to folicit 
 afliftance againft the Turks, was met here, with great mag- 
 nificence by Henry the Fourth And in 1416, the Emperor 
 Sigifrnund was met here, and from hence condu&ed in 
 great pomp to London, In 1518, the Lord-Admiral of 
 France, and the Archbifhop of Paris, both AmbalTadors from 
 the French King, with above twelve hundred attendants, were 
 met here by the Admiral of England and above five hundred 
 gentlemen. And the following year Cardinal Campejus, the 
 Pope's legate, being attended hither by the gentlemen or Kent, 
 was met by the Duke of Norfolk, and many noblemen and 
 prelates of England $ and here in a tent of cloth of gold 
 he put on his Cardinal's robes, richly ermined, and fiom 
 hence rode to London. And here alfo Henry the Eighth 
 met the Princefs Anne of Cleves, in very great itate and pomp, 
 and was foon after married to her. Two fairs are held here 
 annually* one on the 12th of May, and another on the nth 
 of October, for bullocks, hories, and toys. 
 
 Shooter's Hill, 
 
4i2 KENT* 
 
 Shooter's Hill, which is near Blackheafcb, was formerly ufed 
 as a butt for archers, and was in great requeft till King Henry 
 the Eighth's time, fr om whence fome fay it took its name, 
 Bu others tpll us, though this appears lefs probable, that it 
 received its name from the frequent robberies that were com- 
 mitted here. It was common, it is faid, for thieves to lay 
 lurking in the woods about here, in order to flioot paffengers, 
 and then rifle them. And in the fixth year of King Richard 
 the Second an order was made for enlarging the high road 
 here, according to the ftatute of King Edward the Firfh And 
 King Henry the Fourth granted leave to Thomas Chapman* 
 to cut do^n and fell the wood here, that it might not be an 
 harbour for thieves ; and to lay out the money raifed thereby 
 for the improvement of the highway. And in July, £739, a 
 very good defign was begun la be put in execution on Shooter's 
 Hill, a number of hands being employed in cutting a new 
 xoad, wide enough for three carriages to pafs a-breaft, on the 
 eafiern defcent of the hill, which was formerly fa narrow, that 
 it was irnpoflible for a pafienger, if way-laid, to efcape falling 
 into a ruffian's hands, which was the caufe of many robberies 
 here. 
 
 King Henry the Eighth, and his Queen Katharine, once 
 came in very great fplendour, on a May-day, from Greenwich 
 to Shooter's Hill ; and here they were received by two hun- 
 dred archers, all drefied in green, with one perfonating Robin 
 Hood as their Captain, who firft fhewed the King the flciil of 
 his archers in fhooring, and then leading the ladies into the 
 wood, gave them a fine entertainment of venifon and wine, in 
 green arbours, and booths adorned with line pageants, and all 
 the efforts of romantic gallantry. 
 
 Shooter's Hill affords a moft noble and extenfive profpe£i 2 
 not only into almoft all parts of this county, but into SufTex, 
 Surrey, and Efiex \ and alfo of the cities of London and Wef- 
 minfter, and both up and down the river Thames, where the 
 continual pafTage of numerous, veflels, and boats of all kinds, 
 yields a moft pleafmg and delightful appearance. A defign 
 was fome time fince formed of building a town here, but it is 
 pow laid afide. 
 
 LANCASHIRE. 
 
LANCASHIRE. 
 
 ^TT^HIS county is bounded by parts of Cumberland and 
 Jl Weftmoreland on the north, by Chefhire on the fouth, 
 by Yorkfhire on theeaft, and by the Irifh fea on the weft: to- 
 wards the north it is divided by an arm of the fea, which ren- 
 ders that part of Lancafhire adjoining to Cumberland a penin- 
 fula. The figure of this county is much like that of ling* 
 land : it fneafures thirty-two miles in breadth, from eaft to 
 weft, fifty- feven in length, from north to fouth, and one hun- 
 dred and feventy miles in circumference. 
 
 This county is divided into fix hundreds: it has no city f 
 but contains twenty-feven market towns. It lies in the pro- 
 vince of ^ork and diocefe of Chefter, and contains fixty pa- 
 rimes, as appears by an ecclefiaftical furvey made in the reign 
 of King James ths Firft* The parifhes are much larger than 
 thofe of any other county in England, and very populous, and 
 there are for that reafon many chapels in this county, feveral 
 of which are as large as parifh churches. King Edward the 
 Third made this a county palatine, in favour of his fon John 
 of Gaunt, and it has a court which fits in the Dutchy Cham- 
 ber at Weftminfter, for the revenues of the Dutchy of Lan- 
 cafter 3 and a Chancery Court at Prefton : the feal of the 
 county palatine is different from that of thedutcny, for there 
 are lands in the dutchy that are not in the county. From the 
 time that Lancafhire was made a county palatine, Lancafter 
 gave the title of Duke to a branch of the royal family, till 
 the union of the houfes of York and Lancafter, in the marriage 
 of King Henry the Seventh, of the Lancafter line, with Eli- 
 zabeth, heirefsof the houfc of York. 
 
 The air of this county in general is more ferene than that of 
 any other maritime county in England, 10 that the inhabitants 
 are ftrong and healthy, except near th- fens and feafhore, where 
 fulphureous and faline effluvia, which on the approach of 
 florins are extremely fcetid 3 produce fevers, fcurvies,confump- 
 
 tionsj 
 
414 LANCASHIRE. 
 
 tions, rheumatifms, and dropfies. There alfo certain trafts in 
 the more inland parts of the county, which the inhabitants 
 call mcffes, that are moift and unwholefome. 
 
 The foil of this county on the weft fide generally yields 
 great plenty of wheat and barley, and though the hilly tracts 
 on the eaft fide are for the moll part ftony and barren, yet the 
 bottoms of thofe hills produce excellent oats. In fome places 
 the land bears fome very good hemp, and the pafture is forich, 
 that both oxen and cows are of a larger fize here than in any 
 other county in England ; their horns are alfo wider and big- 
 ger. In this county are mines of lead, iron, and copper, and 
 of antimony, black lead, and lapis calaminarisj alfo quarries 
 of ftone for building. Here is likewife great plenty of coal, 
 and a particular kind called Cannelox Candle Coal, which is 
 chiefly found in the manor of Haigh, near Wigan. This coal 
 will not only make a much clearer fire than pitcoa!, but will 
 bear a good' polifh, and when poliflied, looks like black mar- 
 ble $ fo that candlefticks, cups, ftandifhes, fnuff-boxes, and 
 other toys are made of it. In fome of the coal pits are found 
 alum, brimftone, and green vitriol. The mofles or moraffes 
 of this county are generally diftinguifhed into three kinds, the 
 white, the grey, and the black, all which, being drained, bear 
 good corn. They alfo yield turf for fuel, and marl to manure 
 the ground. Trees are fometimes found lying buried in thefe 
 mofles, and the people make ufe of poles and fpits to difcover 
 where they lie. Thefe trees, when dug up, ferve alfo for 
 firing, and they burn like a torch, which fome people fuppofe 
 to be owing to the bituminous ftratum in which they lie; 
 but others to the turpentine which they contain, being gene- 
 rally of the fir kind. 
 
 The chief rivers in this county are the Merfee, the Ribble* 
 the Wire, and the Lon. The Merfee, rifing in the mountains 
 of Derbyfhire, runs fouth-weft, dividing that county from 
 Lancafliire, and being joined by a confiderable ftream called 
 the Gout, which parts Derbyfhire and Chefhire, and receiving 
 the Taurie, the Irwell, the Bollen, and feveral other fmall ri- 
 vers, pafies to Warrington, whence, running weftward, it falls 
 into the Irifh fea at Liverpool. The Ribble rifes in York- 
 fnire, and running fouth-weft, enters the county at Clithero. 
 In its courfethis river is augmented by the Great Calder, the 
 Hodder, the Darwen, and the Savock, and dividing Lancashire 
 nearly into two equal parts, falls into the Irifh fea not far from 
 
 Prefton. 
 
LANCASHIRE. 
 
 Prefton; In its mbuth or seftuary, it receives a large river, 
 formed by the conflux of the ftreams Taud, Dowglas, and 
 Charnock. The Wire is formed by the Little Calder, the 
 Broke, and other fmall ftreams, and running weftward, falls 
 into the Irifli fea twelve miles north of the mouth of the 
 Ribble. The Lon rifes near Kirkby Lonfdale, a market- town 
 of Weftrnoreland, and running fouth-weft is augmented by 
 feveral ftreams, and paffes by Lancafter, near which it falls 
 into the Irifh fea at a wide channel, which alfo receives the ri- 
 vers Coker and Condor. 
 
 This county has great plenty and variety of fifh : upon the 
 fea coafts are found codfifli, flounders, plaife, and turbots ; 
 the fea dogs, incle fi(h, and (heath fifh, are taken upon the 
 jfands near Liverpool ; fturgeons are caught near Warrington, 
 and along the whole coaft are found green-backs, mullets, 
 foles, fand-eels, oyfters, lobfters, (hrimps, prawns, the beftand 
 largeft cockles in England, the echim, torculars, wilks,and 
 perriwinkles, rabbitfijfh, and papfifh ; and fuch abundance of 
 mufcles, that the hufbandmen near the fea coafts manure their 
 grounds with them, 
 
 Almoft all the rivers in this county abound with fifli; the 
 Merfee in particular with fparlings and fmelts ; the Ribble 
 with flounders and plaife ; the Lon with the be ft of falmon ; 
 and the Wire is famous for a large fort of mufcles called 
 Hambleton Hookings^ becaafe they are dragged from their beds 
 with hooks, in wnich pearls of a confiderable fize are very 
 often found. The Irk, a fmall river that falls into the Mer- 
 fee, is remarkable for eels, fo fat that few people can eat them ; 
 the fatnefs of thefe eels is imputed to their feeding upon the 
 greafe and oil which is pre/led by a number of water mills upon 
 this ftream, out of the woollen cloths that are milled in them. 
 There are alfo feveral lakes in this county, which abound with 
 fifh, particularly Kenningfton Meer, about five miles from 
 Winander Meer, in Weftrnoreland, which has very fine char rs 
 and other fifh. 
 
 The principal manufactures of this county are woollen* 
 cloth, cottons, and tickens* 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Lancaster is two hundred and thrrty*three miles from 
 London, and is fituated near the mouth of the river Lon, over 
 
 which 
 
4*6 LANCASHIRE. 
 
 it has a fine (tone bridge. It is a corporation governed by a 
 mayor, aldermen, and burgefTes. [t it a flourifhina; town, well 
 fituated for trade, and carries on a pretty brifk one ; poffeffing 
 about an hundred fail of fhips, fome of them of good bur* 
 then, for the African and American trades. But the only 
 manufactory in the town is that of cabinet-ware; here are 
 many cabinet-makers, who work up the mahogany brought 
 home in their own (hips, and export it to the Weft-Indies, &c« 
 It is a town that encreafes in buildings; having many new 
 piles, much fuperior to the old ftreets, and handfornely raifed 
 of white ftone and fUte. The aflizes are held in the caftle, 
 where is alfo the county gaol. The caftle is a fine ftrong 
 building, but not very large : on the top of it there is a fquare 
 tower, commonly called John of Gaunt* s Ch^ir^ from which 
 there is a beautiful and extenfive profpecT: of the adjacent 
 country, and alfo of the fea. Here is but one church, which 
 is an handfome ftructure, and (lands on the top of the caftle 
 hill. Several utenfils ufed in facrifice, and a variety of Roman 
 coins have been dug up here; and near the church, on the 
 fteepeft fide of the hill, hangs a piece of an old Roman wall, 
 now called Wery-Wall. 
 
 Manchester is one hundred and eighty-two miles from 
 London. It is a place of very great antiquity. A town was 
 raifed here by the Romans, in the reign of Titus, in the nine- 
 ty-feventh year of the Chriflian aera; and long before this 
 there had been a Bricifh town here, in the midft of a foreft. 
 
 Manch?fler is now a town of great trade ; and the manu- 
 factories here are very confiderable. The fuftian manufactory, 
 for which Manchefter has been long famous, is divided into 
 numerous branches, of diftincl and feparate work ; particu- 
 larly corded dimities, velvets, velverets, thickfets, diapers, and 
 various other forts. Thefe goods are worked up of cotton, 
 of fiax and cotton mixed, and of Hamburgh yarn. All forts 
 of cotton are ufed, but chefly the Weft Indian, The check 
 and hat manufactories here are alfo very confiderable : and all 
 thefe manufactories employ men, women, and children. The 
 number of fpinners employed in Manchefter and the neigh- 
 bourhood is exceedingly great. They reckon thirty thoufand 
 fouls in this town, and fifty thoufand manufacturers employed 
 out of it. It is fa*d,that America formerly took three-fourths 
 of a!! che manufactures of Manchefter, 
 
 Manchefter 
 
LANCASHIRE. 417 
 
 Manchefter has an exchange, afpacious market-place, and 
 two parifh churches, St. Mary's and Su Anne's: St. Mary's is 
 a collegiate church, built in 1422, and is a very large, beauti- 
 fol, and (lately edifice, with a choir remarkable for its curious 
 carved work ; and a clock that (hews the age of the moon 
 St. Anne's church was begun by a contribution of the inhabi- 
 tants in the reign of Queen Anne, and finifhed in 72 $. 
 The three mod eminent foundations here are a college, an hof- 
 pital, and a free-Tchool. The hofpital was founded by Hum- 
 phrey Cheetham, Efq; and incorporated by King Charles the 
 Second, for the maintenance of forty boys of this town, and 
 the neighbouring parifhes ; but the governors have enlarged 
 the number to fixty, to be taken in between fix and ten years 
 of age, and maintained, lodged, and cloathed, till the age of 
 fourteen, when they are to be bound apprentices at the charge 
 of the hofpital. The founder endowed it with four hundred 
 and twenty pounds a year, which in 1695 was improved to 
 five hundred and feventeen pounds eight fhillings and four- 
 pence. He alfo erected a library in it, and fettled one hun- 
 dred and fixteen pounds a year on it for ever, to buy books, 
 and to fupport a librarian. There is a fchool for the hofpi- 
 tal boys, where they are taught reading, writing, and other 
 ufeful knowledge. 
 
 The free-fchool was founded in the year 1519, by Dr. Old- 
 ham, Bifhop of Exeter, whofe endowment, by the purchafe 
 of an eftate of the Lord Delawar, was confiderably increafed 
 by Hugh Bexwick and his lifter, who having purchafed ano- 
 ther eftate of the fame Lord Delawar, and the mills upon the 
 river Irk, left them to the fame free-fchool for ever. Here 
 are three mafters with liberal falaries ; and the foundation boys 
 have certain exhibitions for their maintenance in the univer- 
 fity. Beiides thefe public benefactions, here are three charity 
 fchools, two of which are for forty boys each. Here is a 
 firm old ftone bridge over the Irwell, which is built exceed- 
 ingly high, becaufe as the river comes from the mountainous 
 part of the county, it rifes fometimes four or five yards in one 
 night. There are for three miles above the town no lefs than 
 fixty mills upon this rivef ; and the weavers here have looms 
 that work twenty-four laces at a time $ an invention for 
 Which they are indebted to the Dutcht 
 
 Vol. I. 
 
 3 G Liverpool 
 
4 i8 LANCASHIRE. 
 
 Liverpool is two hundred and two miles from London. 
 It ftands upon the decline. of a hill, about fix miles f r om the 
 fea. It is wafhed by the river Merfee, where (hips lying at 
 anchor are expofed to the fudden fqualls of wind, that often 
 fweep the furface from the flat Chefhire fhore on the weft, or 
 the high lands of Lancaftiire that overlook the town on the 
 eaft ; and the banks are fo (hallow and deceitful, that when 
 once a (hip drives, there is hardly a poffibility of preferving 
 her, if the weather proves rough, from being wrecked even 
 clcfe to the town* This is the reafon that fo few fhips an- 
 chor in the road ; for the merchants endeavour to get them 
 immediately into dock, where they lie very fecure. The 
 docks which are three in number, have been built with vaft la- 
 bour andexpence: they are flanked with broad commodious 
 quays, furrounded by handfome brick houfes, inhabited for 
 the moft part by fea r aring people, and communicating with 
 the town by drawbridges and flood-gates, which a man mud 
 be wary in eroding over, as they are pretty narrow. When the 
 tide is full in, the bridges are drawn up, and the gates thrown 
 open, for the paffage of veffels inward and out. 
 
 Liverpool feems to be nearly as broad as it is long. The 
 ftreets are narrow, but the houfes are tolerably well built : 
 fome of them are faced with ftone, and elegantly finifhed. 
 This is a very populous place, and here is an infirmary and a 
 playhoufe. 7 he exchange is an handfome fquare ftru&ure, 
 cf grey ftone, fupported by arches. In the upper part of the 
 exchange are noble apartments,, wherein the corporation 
 tranfadl public bufinefs. The court-room is remarkably 
 handfome, large and commodious ; here the mayor tries petty 
 caufes, and has power to fen ten ce for tranfportation. The 
 affembly- room, which is alfo up flairs, is grand, fpacious, and 
 finely illuminated : here is a meeting once a fortnight to dance 
 and play at cards. 
 
 The principal exports of Liverpool are all forts of woollen 
 and worfted goods, with other manufactures of Manchefter 
 and Yorkfhire, Sheffield and Birmingham wares, &c. Thefe 
 they barter on the coaft of Guinea for ilaves, gold duft, and 
 elephants teeth. Theflaves they difpofe of at Jamaica, Bar- 
 badoes, and the other Weft India iflands, for rum and fugar, 
 for which they are fure of a quick fale at home. 
 
 Preston, 
 
LANCASHIRE. 419 
 
 Preston, or Priest's-Town, was fo called from its hav- 
 ing been inhabited by a great number of religious : it is 
 fituated on a delightful eminence on the bank of the Ribble, 
 at the diftance of two hundred and twelve miles from Lon- 
 don. This town was firft incorporated by King Henry the 
 Second, and is governed by a mayor, recorder, eight aldermen, 
 four under aldermen, feventeen common-council-men, and a 
 town-clerk. It rofe out of the ruins of Ribchefler, now a 
 village, but anciently a very confiderable city in this neigh- 
 bourhood ; and is a handfome town, as large as fome cities; 
 and being the place of refidence for the officers belonging to 
 the chancery of the county palatine, is reckoned one of 
 the prettieft retirements in England ; it is a very gay place^ 
 Here is a ftone bridge over the Ribble, and a charky-fchooi 
 for twenty-eight boys, and another for as many girls. On 
 the neighbouring common there are frequent horfe-races : 
 and the market of this town is one of the rnoft confiderable 
 north of the Trent, for corn, fifn, fowl, and all forts of 
 provifion. 
 
 Cartmel lies among fome hills called Cartmel Fells, at 
 thediftance of two hundred and fifty-eight miles from Lon- 
 don* It has a church, which is built in the form of a cathe- 
 dral, a harbour for boats, and a good market for corn, fheep, 
 and fifh* This town lying between two bays of the fea, one 
 formed by the aeiluary of the river Ken, from Weftmoreland, 
 and the other by the conflux of feveral fmall rivers from 
 Weftmoreland and Cumberland into the Irifh fea, there are 
 near it three fands, one called Ken Sands, denominated from 
 the river Ken, another called Dudden Sand? from a river of the 
 fame name, and the third, on the like account called Leven 
 Sand* The(e fands are very dangerous to travellers, who 
 pafs them frequently, they bein^ the ftiorteft way to feveral 
 places they are bound to, both by rcafon of the uncertainty 
 of the tides, which are quicker or flower according as the 
 winds blow more or lefs from the fea, and by reafon or many 
 quick-fands, chiefly occafioned by much rainy weather ; upon 
 this account there is a guide on horkback appointed to each 
 fand, for the diredtion of fuch per tons as iball have occafion 
 to pafs over, and each of thefe three guides has a falary paid 
 him by the government. 
 
 3 G 2 Hawkeskead 
 
4?o LANCASHIRE. 
 
 Hawkeshead is fituated on the weft fide of Winamjer 
 Meer, in a woody promontory called Fournefs, in the moft nor- 
 thern part of this county, at the diftance of two hundred and 
 feventy-one miles from London* Dr. Gibfon is of opinion 
 that Fournef; (hould be written Furnef$> or Fonrnage, and that 
 the name is derived from the many furnaces which were an- 
 ciently in this place, as the rents and fervices at this day paid 
 for them, under the name of Bloom Smithy Rents, ftill teftify. 
 Here is a good market for provifions and woollen commodi- 
 ties, and a free grammar fchool, endowed by Edwin Sands, an 
 Archbifhop of Canterbury, who was born near it. 
 
 Newton is at the diftance of one hundred and eighty- 
 feven miles from London, and is an ancient borough by pre- 
 fcription, governed by a fteward, bailiff, and burgefles. This 
 town had once a market, but it is now difufed; and it is now 
 remarkable only for chufing two members of parliament, 
 who are returned by the fteward of the lord of the manor, 
 and for a charity fchool, founded in the year 1707, by one 
 Hornby, a yeoman of this place, and endowed with two 
 thoufand pounds, where children are taught to read, write, 
 and caft accompts, and are allowed a dinner every fchool-day ; 
 and there are ten boys and ten girls lodged in a neighbouring 
 hofpital, where they are provided with all forts of neceffaries 
 till they are fourteen years old. 
 
 Warrington is diftant from London one hundred and 
 eighty-two miles, and is a pretty large, neat, old built, but po- 
 pulous and rich town, with a fine ftone bridge over the Mer- 
 fee, and a charity-fchool, where twenty-four poor boys are 
 taught and cloathed, out of an eftate given by Peter Leigh, 
 Efq. Some of the boys are taught grammar until they are 
 old enough for apprenticefhip. This town is full of good 
 country tradesmen; and in its neighbourhood there is a fine 
 linen manufacture, called huckaback, of which, it is faid, 
 five hundred pounds worth, or more, is generally fold here at 
 a weekly market, kept here for that purpofe. The market 
 for provifions is ferved with great plenty of all forts of fifh, 
 flefh, corn, and cattle, and the malt here is remarkably good. 
 There is a diffenting academy here of confiderable reputation. 
 The learned Dr. John Taylor* of Norwich, well known for 
 
LANCASHIRE. 421 
 
 his valuable theological publications, was formerly one of the 
 tutors at this academy. 
 
 Hornby is fituated on the river Lon, at the extremity of 
 the county, next to Weftmoreland, at the diftance of two 
 hundred and forty-three miles from London, It contains lit- 
 tle that is remarkable except the remains of an ancient caftle, 
 beautifully fituated on a hill, round the bottom of which runs 
 a river, called The Winning. 
 
 Ormskirk is two hundred and five miles from London, 
 is an handfome town, and has a good inland trade. This 
 place is chiefly nored for a bituminous earth, from which an 
 oil refembling that of amber is extracted, that preferves raw 
 fiefh, and ferves the country people inftead of candles ; and 
 in the adjacent country there is a mineral fpring, called Maud" 
 lin WelU handfomely wailed in and covered, the waters of 
 which have performed notable cures. It is impregnated with 
 fulphur, vitriol, oker, and a mineral fait. It ufed to throw 
 up marine fhells in great quantities, notwithftanding it is 
 fituated far from the fea, or any fait rivers, till they found a 
 way to keep them down together with the fand, by laying 
 inill-ftones upon the fpring. 
 
 Wigan, or Wiggin", Is a corporation town, pleafantly 
 fituated near the fource of the Dowgias, at the diftance of 
 one hundred and ninety-five miles from London, in the poft- 
 road to Lancafter. Here is a ftately church, well endowed ; 
 and the re&orof it is always lo r d of the manor. It is a neat 
 well-built town, is famous for the manufacture of coverlets, 
 rugs, blankets, and other forts or' bedding, and for its pit- 
 coal, and iron»work; and is inhabited chiefly by brafiers, 
 pewterers, dyers, and weavers. 
 
 Poulton is two hundred and twenty nine miles from Lon- 
 don, and is conveniently fituated for trade, being not far fro'm 
 the mouth of the Wire, and juft by the Shippon, which rnus 
 into it. 
 
 Ulverston is fituated on the weft fide of the large bay 
 that runs u r through this county, at tne diftance of two hun- 
 dred and fixiy-five miles from London. 
 
 Prescot 
 
LANCASHIRE. 
 
 Prescot is a pretty large, but not a populous town, at 
 the diftance ot one hundred and ninety-four miles from 
 London. 
 
 Rochdale derives its name from its fituation in a valley, 
 on a fmall river that falls into the Irwell, called The Rocb. 
 The valley in which this town Hands is at the bottom of a 
 ridge of hills, called Black/lone Edge, which are fo high, that 
 they are fometimes covered with fnow in the month of Auguft. 
 This is a pretty large and populous town, is of fome note 
 for its woollen manufactory, and is one hundred and ninety 
 five miles from London, 
 
 Kirkham ftands on the north-fide of the aeftuary of the 
 Ribble, at the diftance of two hundred and twenty-one miles 
 from London. It isfituated in that part of the county called 
 Field Land, between the Ribble and a little river fome miles 
 fouth of Lancafter. In many places on this coaft the inha- 
 bitants gather great quantities of fand, which having lain 
 fome time, they put into troughs with holes in them, pour 
 water on it, and boil the water info a white fait. Here is a 
 free grammar-fchool, well endowed by Mr. Colborn, a citi- 
 zen of London, in 1674, with three matters, one of whom 
 mufc be in holy orders, and preach a le£ture once a month in 
 the mother church, or in fome chapel in the parifh. 
 
 Bury is one hundred and ninety miles from London, and 
 is a town of good trade, fituated on the Irwell ; it is employed 
 in the fuftian manufacture, and drives a confiderable trade 
 in a fort of coarfe goods, called half-thicks and kerfies, 
 for which there is a great market, though the town lies out of 
 the way, and at the foot of the mountains^ fo that otherwifc it 
 would not be much frequented. 
 
 Bolton is a ftaple for fuftians of divers forts, efpecially 
 thofe called Augfburgh and Milan fuftians, which are brought 
 to its markets and fairs from all parts of the country. It 
 ftands at the diftance of two hundred and thirty-feven miles 
 from London, and has medicinal waters. The old Earl of 
 Derby was beheaded here for proclaiming King Charles the 
 Second. 
 
 BtACKBOURN 
 
LANCASHIRE. 
 
 Blackbourn derives its namefrom its fituationon the bank 
 of the Bourn, or river Darwen, which is remarkable for the 
 blacknefs of its waters. It is two hundred and three miles 
 from London % 
 
 Burnley is an inconfiderable town, two hundred and fe- 
 ven miles from London. It is fituated in an healthy air, 
 upon the bourn or river called Great Calder. 
 
 Garstang is two hundred and twenty-two miles from 
 London, and is fituated in the poll-road between Prefion and 
 Lancafter* 
 
 Charley is two hundred and one miles from London* 
 
 Haslingdon is fituated under the mountains, on the eaft- 
 fide of the county, at the diftance of one hundred and ninety- 
 five miles from London. 
 
 Clithpro is two hundred and ten miles from London, 
 and is fituated at the bottom of Pendle Hill, near the fource 
 of the Ribble. Here are the remains of an ancient caftle, 
 which was built about the year 1178. Horfes races are 
 fometimes held on the adjacent moor. 
 
 Eccleston is two hundred and five miles from London* 
 
 Colne is two hundred and fifteen miles from London, and 
 is fituated not far from Pendle Hill, on the eaft fide of the 
 county. It appears to have been very ancient, if not aRo« 
 jxian ftation, from the many coins, both of filver and copper, 
 that have been caft up here by the plough. 
 
 Dalton is two hundred and feventy-one miles fromLon* 
 don, and contains nothing remarkable. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c t 
 
 Knowfley Houfe> near Liverpool, is the feat of the Earl of 
 Dei by. It was the feat. of the Stanley family before the time 
 of Henry the Seventh, for whofe particular reception the 
 
 ' oldeft 
 
LANCASHIRE. 
 
 eJdeft part of the prefent building Was erected, on his intend- 
 ing to vifit his father-in law, then heir of this noble houfe. 
 It is of a dark brown flone, and looks like an ancient caftle. 
 In the year 1731 there was added to it a brick wing, and a 
 large range of fiables. The front looks near, and fome of 
 the apartments are handfome* Here is a large collection of 
 pictures, bought abroad by a painter, whom the late EarJ, 
 who was a virtuofo, maintained feveral years in Italy to buy 
 them* Here is an Hercules and Antaeus by Rubens, and an 
 holy family, by the fame mailer; a Madona by Corregio ; 
 fome fhip pieces by Vandervelt ; a very capital piece by Rem- 
 brandt, reprefenting Be]fii2zzar, amidfl; his concubines and 
 courtier?, gazing at the hand~writing on the wall; there are 
 alfo fome good family pieces by Vandyke, Sir Peter Lely, &c, 
 But fome very capital pieces, which were at this feat, were 
 ipoiled by the falling in of part of the old building, fome 
 years fince, in a ftorm, 
 
 Knowfley Park has a fine variety of ground, and good co- 
 verfor the deer. A piece of water, deep and broad, expanding 
 itfelf for above three miles, adds greatly to the beauties of the 
 fcene. On the top of the higheft eminence in this delight- 
 ful park, is a very neat fummer-houfe, with four arched win- 
 dows, opening upon as many elegant and extenfive profpecls. 
 Thefe landfcapes are painted in the arch of each refpective 
 window. The room is all of oak, finely carved, the growth 
 of the place. At about fixty yards diflance, under ground, 
 are a very convenient kitchen and cellar. 
 
 Kirkly Crofs Houfe is the feat of Mr. Kirkby. It has been 
 in the fame family ever fince the Norman invafion. 
 
 Jjkton Hall is the feat of the Duke of Hamilton ; Shav) 
 Place and Worjley are feats of Lord WiLoughby of Parham ; 
 and Croxteth Hall is the feat of Lord Molineux. 
 
 A remaikable piece of antiquity in the neighbourhood 
 of Ribchefter, and which has been the object of much fpecu- 
 lation, is an ancient fortification, which, becaufe anchors, 
 rings, nails, and other parts of veffels, have been dug up near 
 it, is called Anchor Hill. As this hill i£ at a confiderable dis- 
 tance from the fea, it is fuppofed that it was a rampart or tne 
 fortrefs of Coccium ; and the broad and deep fofU under jr f 
 
 which 
 
LANCASHIRE. 
 
 which leads towards the river, ferved as a cana! for the boats 
 that were to pafs and repafs the river, for theferviceof the 
 garrifcn; and as we mjy reafonably fuppofe that there were 
 a great number of fuch boats belonging to fo large a fort and 
 city, we may conclude that the Anchor Hill was a little dock 
 for the building and repairing them. 
 
 In this hill have often been dug up Roman paterae or bowls, 
 confifting of a fubftance, faid to be like that«of the China 
 bowls, adorned- with flowers, and the figures of wolves, and 
 fomeof them marked at the bottom FAB, PRO : which ap- 
 pears to imply, that they were made when one of the Fabii 
 was Procurator or Proconful. 
 
 Near Anchor Hill have alfo been difcovered, a common 
 fewer, and a floor laid with Roman tiles. 
 
 Qverlurrow* on the Lon, north-eaft of Lancafter, accord- 
 ing^ to the tradition of its inhabitants, was formerly a very 
 great city, and is thought to have been the Br erne ton a cum of 
 the Romans; its antiquity is evident from theold monu- 
 ments, infcriptiom, chequered pavements, and Roman coins, 
 that have been found in this place. 
 
 Not many years ago, in draining Merton Late, which was 
 fevera! miles in circumference, and fituated on the north fide 
 of the mouth of the Ribble, here was found at the bottom 
 of it, eight canoes, fomewhat like thofe made ufe of by the 
 Indians in America, in which, it is fuppofed, theancien: Bri- 
 tons ufed to fifli upon this lake. 
 
 At Anclijfi about two miles from Wigan, there is a curious 
 phaenomenon, called The Burning Well, the water of which is 
 cold, and has no fmell ; yei; fo iirong a vapour ifiues out wkh 
 it, that upon applying a flame to it, the top of the water is co* 
 vered with aflame, like that of burning fpirits, which lafts fe- 
 veral hours, and emits io fierce a heat, that meat may be boiled 
 over it : but this water being taken out of the well, will not 
 emit vapours in a quantity fufEcient to catch fiie. 
 
 At Barton, near Ormfkirk, there is a remarkable fpring of 
 fait water, a quart of which wiW produce eight ounces of fait, 
 though a quart of fea water will yield but an ounce and an half. 
 
 Vol. I % 
 
 In 
 
426 LANCASHIRE. 
 
 If) many parts on the coafl: near Kirkman^ the inhabitants 
 gather great heaps of fand together, which, after having lain 
 feme time, they pour into troughs, full of holes at bottom, 
 pour water on it, and boil the lees into white fait. 
 
 About Latham is found a bifuminous earth, which yields a 
 fcent much like the oil of amber ; and an oil may be extra&ed 
 from it, little inferior to that of amber, initsmoft valuable 
 qualities. The country people cut it into pieces, which they 
 burn inftead cf candles. 
 
 About a mile from Lancafter is a cavern called Dunald- 
 Mill-Hole^ s curiofity which is not perhaps exceeded by any 
 thing of the kind in Derbyfhire. It is on the middle of a large 
 common, and you are led to it by a brook nearly as large as 
 the New River, which, after turning a corn-mill juft at the 
 entrance of the cave, runs in at its mouth by feveral beautiful 
 cafcades, continuing its courfe two miles under a large moun- 
 tain, and at laft makes its appearance near Cranford, a village 
 in the road to Kendal. The entrance of this fubterraneous 
 channel has fomething of both the pleafing and the horrible. 
 From the mill at the top you defcf nd about ten yards perpen- 
 dicularly, by means of chinks in the rocks, and fhrubs or 
 trees* The road then leads to the right, alittle winding, till 
 you have fotrse hundreds of yards thick of rocks, and mineral 
 above you* In this manner you proceed, fometimes through 
 vaults fo capacious that you can fee neither roofs nor fides, 
 and fomedmes 00 all fours from its narrownefs, ftill following 
 the brook, which entertains with a kind of harmony well 
 fuired to the folemnity of the furrounding horror. 
 
 i 
 
 LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 THIS county is bounded on the north by Derbyfliire and 
 Nottinghamfliire; on theeaft by Lincolnfliire and Rut- 
 landfhire; by Warwickfliire on the weft, being parted from it 
 by the old Roman military way, called Watling-Jlreet* near 
 half way; and by Nottinghamfliire on the fotith. It is about 
 thirty*three miles in length, twenty-eight in breadth, and one 
 hundred in circumference ; and contains twelve market towns, 
 two hundred parifhes, five hundred and fifty-eight villages, 
 and is divided into fix hundreds. It Iks in the diocefe of 
 Lincoln. 
 
 As the county is fituated almoft in the middle of England, 
 and confequently at a proper diftance from the fea, the air is 
 very fweet and wholefome; neither is it encumbered with any 
 Handing waters, but wafhed by feveral ftreams ; both which 
 contribute to make it very healthy. The foil, except in the 
 north-eaft parr, is very good, and yields plenty of corn and 
 grafs,and abundance of the beft beans, Thefouth -eaft is but 
 poorly fupplied with fuel, but the north-eaft abounds with 
 pit-coal, which with the vaft numbers of flieep that feed on 
 the mountains, makes ample amends for its other deficiencies. 
 
 Its principal commodities are corn, fifli, flefh, fowl, wool, 
 beans, and horfes for the collar. The chief bufinefs of the 
 inhabitants of the county is agriculture ; but the flocking ma- 
 nufacture is greatly encouraged here, and turns to a good 
 account. 
 
 The chief rivers are the Avon, the Soar, the Anker, and 
 the Wei land. The Avon foon leaves this county, and runs 
 fouth-weft towards Warwick. The Soar, which is the prin- 
 cipal river of the county, firft runs north-eaft by Leicefter, 
 till it has received the Wreke, and then turning to the north- 
 weft, fails into the Trent, where Leicefterfhire, Derbyfliire, 
 and Nottinghamfliire meet. The Anker runs north-weft to 
 Atherftoni on the edge of Warwickfliire. The Welland 
 
 3 H 2 runs 
 
LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 runs north-eaft by Harborough to Stamford. The Wreke 
 riffs In that part of the county, called The Would % and runs 
 weftvvard into the Soar. 
 
 MARKET TOWNS. 
 
 Leicester, which is the county town, is ninety*nine miles 
 from London ; and is governed by a mayor, a recorder, a 
 fteward, a bailiff, twenty four aldermen, forty-eight commpn- 
 council men, a town-clerk, and other officers. It had its 
 charter from King John, and its freemen are toll free at all 
 the markets and fairs in England. Under the Saxon Hep- 
 tarchy it was the chief city of the Mercian kingdom, and was 
 (hen the fee of a bifhop, but the fee being removed, after a 
 fucceifioh of eight prelates, it fell to decay; however, in the 
 year 914, it was repaired, and fortified by new walls, after 
 which it became a wealthy town, and had thirty-two parifh 
 churches; but rebelling againft King Henry the Second, it 
 was befieged and taken ; the caftle difmantled, and the walls 
 thrown down. In the civil war the army of King Charles 
 the Firfi took it by ftorm, and it was foon after retaken by 
 Sir Thomas Fairfax. 
 
 It is vvafhed on the weft and north fides by the river Soar } 
 and is fti!l the largeft, beft built, and moft populous town in 
 the county. It is faid that Richard the Third, who was 
 killed at the battle of Bof worth, was interred in it; and that 
 his ftone coffin has been converted into a trough for horfes to 
 drink at, belonging to ;he White Horfe Inn in this town* In 
 the High-ftreet there is acrofs, which is an exquiftte piece of 
 workrnanfhip, in imitation of that on which our Saviour fuf- 
 fered. An hofpital, that was built in this town for one bun* 
 dred poor fick men and women, by Henry, the firft Duke of 
 Lancafter, who was interred in it, continues ftillin a tolera- 
 ble ilate, being fupported by fome revenues of the Dutchy of 
 Lancafter, and it is capable of maintaining one hundred pa- 
 tiems ; but the moft ftately edifice here of its kind* is an hof- 
 pital built in the reign of King Henry the Eighth, and en- 
 dowed by Sir William Wigifton* a merchant of the ftaple 
 here, fer twelve men and as many women ; it has achape! 9 
 gad a library, for the ufe of the mimSers and fcholars oi the 
 
 town* 
 
LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 town. Here is alfo another hofpital for fix widows, and a 
 charity fchooL 
 
 Not far from the town is a caftle, which though nowdif* 
 mantled, was a building of great extent, beln^ the place 
 where John of Gaunr, Duke of Lancafter, held his court 5 
 he enlarged it with about twenty \\X acres of ground, in- 
 clofed it with a high wall, and called it Novum Opus; ic is 
 ftill called Newark^ a corruption of New-work^ and is the 
 fciteof fom^of the Deft houfesin or near jLeicefter; thefe ho ales 
 are extra parochial, as being under caftle guard, by an old 
 grant from the crown. The hall and kitchen of the caftle 
 are ftill entire; the town and county courts are held in the 
 ball, which is fo lofty and fp^ciou?, that at the affiz^s, the 
 courts are fo far diftant from one anotner, as not to diiturb 
 each other. One of the gateways of this caft le has a very 
 curious arch, and in the tower over it is kept the magazine 
 for the county militia. 
 
 The inhabitants of this town have greatly improved the 
 manufacture of nockings, of which they weave vail quanti- 
 ties, fo that in fome years Leicefter has returned fixty thou- 
 faad pounds in that article only. The market in this town is 
 one of thegreateft in England for provifions, efpecially cora 
 and cattle. 
 
 In a meadow near the town was formerly a rnonaftery, 
 founded, in 1143, Robert BofTu, Earl of Leicester, Here 
 the famous Cardinal Wolfey died. It is now a dwelling- 
 houfe; and the only thing worth feeing is the terrace walk, 
 fupportsd With an embattled wall, with lunettes hanging over 
 the river, and fhaded with trees. 
 
 - St. Margaret's church is a noble and elegant ftruclure, and 
 famous for a ring or Tix of the mofi tuneaole bells in the 
 kingdom. 
 
 In St. Martin's church is an epitaph on one Heyric, who 
 died in 15S9, aged feventy-lix, lived in one houfe with his 
 wife fifty-two years, and in ail that time buried neither man, 
 woman, nor child, though fometimes twenty in family ; and 
 the widow, who lived to be ninety-feven,faw before her death,' 
 which happened in December i6ii,of her children, grand- 
 children, and great grand-children, to the number of qaie 
 hundred and forty-three. 
 
 There is preferved m this town a remarkable piece of anti- 
 quity, which is a piece of mofaic Work, ac the bottom of a 
 cellar, it is the ftory of A<fteon's being killed by his own 
 
 » hounds, 
 
43<> 
 
 LEICESTERSHIRE, 
 
 hounds, wrought as a pavement* The ftones are only of two 
 colours, white and brown, and very fmall. 
 
 Harborough is eighty three miles from London, and is * 
 great thoroughfare in the road to Derby, near the fouree of 
 the river Welland. It was famous in Camden's time, for its 
 beaft fair, and the beft horfes and colts are fold here. There 
 are no fields belonging to the town, fo that the cattle belong* 
 ing to it are obliged to be kept in the next parifh. 
 
 Loughborough is one hundred and ten miles from Lon- 
 don, and in the time of the Saxons was a royal village. It is 
 an agreeab*e town, with rich meadow ground on the fofie, 
 which ru ns here almoft parallel with the river Soar. Here is 
 a large church, and a free fchool. 
 
 Lutterworth is eighty-feven miles from London, and is 
 pleafantly fituated on a fmall ftream, called TheSwift^ that 
 falls into the Avon, a few miles below the town. It is a good 
 town, and well inhabited, and the church is a noble Gothic 
 ftruciure, with a lofty fpire, and in it is (till preferved the an- 
 cient pulpit, in which the famous reformer John Wickliffc 
 preached, he being many years redlor of this parifh. 
 < 
 
 Melton, which is alfo called Melton Mowbray, from 
 a noble family of the latter name, that were anciently lords of 
 it, ftands in a fertile foil, at the diftance of one hundred and 
 feven miles from London, and is almoft encompafled with the 
 river Eye. It is a large well built town, and has two fine 
 bridges over the Eye, a large handfome church, and a free 
 fchool. There are frequent horfe-races, and the moft confi- 
 derable market for cattle, of any in this part of England. 
 
 Ashby DE LA Zouch is one hundred and fourteen miles 
 from London, and is pleafantly fituated, It has a large hand- 
 fome church, and a neat ftone crofs in its principal ftreet. 
 It has alfo a free fchool, the mailer of which has an handfome 
 ftipend. From the remains of the walls of the Earl of Hun- 
 tingdon's caftle here, it appears to have been one of the beft 
 in England. James the Firft continued here with his whole 
 court for feveral days $ the dinner being ferved up every day 
 by thirty poor knights, with gold chains and velvet gowns* 
 
LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 431 
 
 Near this town is a noted mineral water called Grlffydam. 
 The fairs of this town are ftocked with young horfes of the 
 largeft and beft breed in England ; and the place is alfo noted 
 for its ale^ which is faid to be as good as that of Burton. 
 There is a confxderable flocking manufa&ory here. 
 
 Billesdon is ninety-feven miles from London, and though 
 a fmall town, and much decayed, is of great antiquity. There 
 are ftill the remains of a ftrong Roman camp in its neigh- 
 bourhood, thatenclofes upwards of eighteen acres of ground, 
 and appears to have been fortified with an high wall, and a 
 deep ditch; but the greateft part of it is now demolifhed. It 
 has been generally fuppofed, that one of the temples where 
 the Romans met to facrifice was near this camp, and Mr. 
 Camden and Bifhop Gibfon are of that opinion. 
 
 Bosworth is one hundred and five miles from London, 
 and is pleafantly fituated upon an hill, in a wholeforne air, and 
 fruitful foil, both for corn and grafs. The field of adlion fo 
 noted in hiftory for the decifive battle between the houfes of 
 York and Lancafter^ in which Richard the Third was ilain, 
 was Redmere plain, three miles from the town, in which are 
 frequently dug up pieces of armour, weapons, heads of ar* 
 rows, &c. 
 
 Hallaton is ninety-three miles from London, but con* 
 tains nothing remarkable. 
 
 Hinckley is fituated near the borders of Warwickfiiire, 
 from which county this part of Leicefterfliire is feparated by 
 the Watling-ftreet-road. It was formerly fuperior in confe- 
 quence to Birmingham. At prefent it contains feven hun- 
 dred and fifty houies. The flocking manufactory in this 
 town employs about one thoufand frames. The church is a 
 large and venerable flructure. Here was formerly a priory 
 and a caille. The latter is traditionally faid to have been in- 
 habited by John of Gaunt. It is one hundred and two miles 
 from London. The affizes were formerly held here. 
 
 Mountsorel, properly Moun t t-Soar-Hill, derives its 
 name from the river Soar, on the weft of it, and an hill in the 
 middle of the town. In the reign of King Henry the Third 
 
 there 
 
432 LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 there was a caftle here, which was feized and demolifiied by the 
 country people, who had fuffered much by the excurfions of 
 the garrifcn. This town is one hundred and five miles 
 from London, and ftands partly in Surrovy parifh* and partly 
 in Rodeley parifli, and had formerly two chapel?, though it 
 has now but one. Here is a bridge over the Soar. 
 
 Waltham on the Would is fituated near an hilly 
 healthy trad, called Wrekin in tkeWould^ at the diftance of 
 one hundred and thirteen miles from London. 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Near Loughborough the Earl of Huntingdon has a feat, 
 which is adorned with wood and water. The houfe is old, 
 and not fo well fituated as could be wiffred ; but the park is 
 eft^med one of the moft beautiful in the kingdom. 
 
 At Stanton Harold^ two miles north of Afnby de la Zouch, 
 is a noble feat of Earl Ferrers, fo lar^e that it appears like a 
 little town. The gardens are adorned with ilatues* 
 
 At Groby, five miles from Leicefter, the Ear! of Stamford 
 has a fine park ajid feat ; as has a!fo the Karl of Cardigan, at 
 StarAon-Brudenell) four mifes from Bofworth. 
 
 About three miles from Hinckley, is a village called Hig* 
 ham y mar the Roman highway, where, when a labourer was , 
 digging in the year 607, jie ftruck againft a flat ilone, which 
 being removed, he found concealed under it two hundred and 
 fifty pieces of filver coin of Henry the Third, each weighing 
 about three pence. In digging further he aifo difcovered three 
 curious rings. Some pieces of Roman coin of the Emperor 
 Trajan were alio found under the ftone, which has induced 
 fome of our Antiquarians to fuppofe that it was the bafe of 
 an altar, it being the cuftom to lay coins under them. 
 
 A petrifying fpring which is fituated in the neighbour* 
 hood of Lutterworth, is one of the n&oft remarkable cufiofi- 
 ties which this county contains. The water of this fpring is 
 exceedingly cold, and fo Itrongly impregnated with petrify 
 
LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 433 
 
 fog qualities, that in a very little time it converts wood and fe* 
 vera! other fubftances into (lone# 
 
 At Collerton^ a village north-eaft of Afhby de la Zouch, 
 there are fome coal mines., which in the reign of K.\n<z Henry 
 the Eighth burnt for many years together y tiil the fulphureous 
 and bituminous matter which fed the flame, was exhaufted* 
 
 A few miles from Afhby de la Zo>jch, is Chernwood-foreft, 
 on the borders of which is a fmall village, called Cherley y 
 where there was formerly a convent for friars hermits j and at 
 prefent great part of the walls, adorned with curious carvings, 
 arc ftill (landing; and at one end is a lofty tower, which is 
 Ajppofed to have belonged to the church of the convent. 
 
 The village of Belton is noted for its great fair for all forts 
 of cattle, on the Monday after Trinity Monday. In the 
 reign of King Henry the Third, Roefia, wife or Bertram de 
 Verdun, founded a ftately abbey near this place, called Grace 
 Dieu 9 for nuns of the Ciftertian order, which continued to 
 fiourifli in great fplendour, till the diflblution of religious 
 houfes. Great part of this magnificent ftruclure is ftill {land- 
 ing* and, with fome modern additions, has been converted inta 
 the feat of a private gentleman* 
 
 Claybrook, a village north-weftof Lutterworth, is fuppofed 
 by the inhabitants to have been formerly a part of Cleycefter, 
 at the diftanceof one mile from that place, which in the time 
 of the Romans was a flourifliing city. Large foundations, 
 confiding of fquare ftoncs, have been difcovered here, and Ro- 
 man bricks and coins have been often dug up. It has been ob- 
 ferved, that the earth, fo far as the city extended, is of a darker 
 colour than that beyond it, and fo rich, that it has been ufed 
 by the hu&andmen in the neighbourhood for manure* 
 
 At a village called Cafiington, near Mountforel, is an an- 
 cient funeral monument, m the manner of the Britons, be- 
 fore the arrival of the Romans, It confnls of a mount of 
 earth, about three hundred and fifty feet long, and about forty 
 feet high. It is called Shipley Hilly from a great captain, who 
 according to the traditionary report, was buried here. BuC 
 fome think it more probable, that this was raifed to perpe- 
 
 Voi,. I. 3 I tuate 
 
434 
 
 LEICESTERSHIRE. 
 
 tuate the memory of a battle between the ancient inhabitants 
 
 of the ifland, and the Belgian Britons, 
 
 TFilloughhy Brooks is a pleafant village, and is alfo noted 
 for a barrow or funeral monument on a neighbouring hill* 
 It is called by the people Blackfieid, becaufe the earth when 
 dug up is of a blackifh colour, which is the more remarkable, 
 becaufe that in the neighbouring fields is red. Many coins 
 have been dug up here at different times, with ojher pieces of 
 antiquity, 
 
 At Segs-HUl, or Sex-Hilh feven miles from Leicefter, fix 
 pariflies cent*e f and here are the marks of the bounds* It is 
 me of the &oaian tamuli* 
 
 'MP 
 
 LJNCOLNSHIRE« 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE 
 
 ^T^HiS is a large maritime county, bounded dn the fonthhf 
 JL the river Welland, which divides it from Northamp* 
 ton (hi re ; on the north by the Humber, wrvch feparates it 
 from Yorkfhire ; on the eaft by the German Ocean 5 and on 
 the weft by fome parts of Yorkfhire, Nortinghamfhire, Lei- 
 cefterfhire, and Rutlandshire. It is about fixty miles in length* 
 thirty-five in breadth, and one hundred and eighty in cir- 
 cumference. This county is divided into three parts. The: 
 firft is called Holland^ comprehends the fouth*eaft par: of 
 Lincolnfhire, and is again fubdivided into three wapentakes or 
 hundreds. The fecond is called Kejltven^ comprehending the 
 fouthern part of this county, which is by an ancientw riter 
 called CeoJIefnewood, , as it is fuppofed from a large foreft that 
 ftood formerly within this divifion : It contains ten wapen- 
 takes or hundreds. Lindfey^ the third, is called Lindijti^ by 
 Bede, the Britifh hiftoriao, as it is thought from the city of 
 Lindum, or Lincoln : This divifion comprehends all the; 
 north part of Lincolnfhire, and is fubdivided into feventeen 
 wapentakes or hundreds. The whole county is divided into 
 thirty hundreds or wapentakes, and contains one city and 
 thirty-one market towns. It lies in the province of Can- 
 terbury and diocefe of Lincoln, and comprehends fix hundred 
 and thirty parifhes. 
 
 The air of Lincolnfhire is different in different parts : fit 
 the middle of the county, and in the weftern parts, along thq 
 Trent, it is very healthy, but upon the fea coaft it is bad, par- 
 ticularly in the Ibuth-eaft divifion, which is not only boggy 
 and full of fens, but great part of it is under water, for which 
 reafon it is diftinguifhed by the name of Holland. 
 
 The foil of this county is in general very rich 5 the inland 
 parts producing corn in great plenty, and the fenny country 
 yielding excellent pafture. Lincolnfhire is remarkable for 
 fat cattle and good horfes, and alfo for excellent dogs, as well 
 
 3 I a greyhound* 
 
436 LINCOLNSHIRE 
 
 greyhounds as maftiffs. It abounds in game of all kinds, and 
 jtherivers, together with the fea, afford great plenty and 
 xiety of fifh. There is a fort of pike found in the Witham, 
 which is peculiar to this water, and fuperior to all others. 
 Such is the plenty and variety of wild fowl in this county* 
 that it has been called the aviary of England ; and two fowls, 
 called the knute and the dotterel, which are aioft delicious 
 food, are faid to be found no where elfe in England. 
 
 The chief rivers that run through this county are the Wel- 
 land, the Witham, the Trent, the Dun, and the Ankam. 
 The Wei land rifes in Northamptonfhire, and running acrofs 
 that county, enters Lincolnfhire ; then pafling byfeveral mar- 
 ket towns, discharges itfelf into a bay of the German Ocean, 
 called by Ptolemy Metaris MJIuarium y but called now the 
 Wafhes. The Witham rifes near Grantham, and running 
 north-eaft, paifcs by Lincoln, whence directing its courfe fouth- 
 eaft, it falls into the German Ocean near Boftoru The Trent 
 rifes in StafFordfhire, and running north-eaft through the 
 counties of Derby and Nottingham, and parting Notting- 
 ham/hire from Lincolnfhire, falls into the mouth of the Hum- 
 ber. The Dun rifes in Yorkfhire, and inclofing, together 
 with the Trent, a confiderable piece of groynd in the north- 
 weft part of this county, known by the name of The Ijle of 
 dxholm, falls into the Trent near its conflux with the Hum- 
 bert The Ankam rifes not far north of Lincoln, and direct- 
 ing its courfe due north, falls into the Hurnber eaft of the ri- 
 ver Treat. 
 
 CITY. 
 
 LINCOLN is one hundred and thirty-two miles from Lon- 
 don, and was anciently called NicoU It is faulted on the 
 fide of a hill, at the bottom of which runs the river Witham 
 in three fmall channels, over which are feverai bridges* Vor- 
 timer, the valiant Briton, who fo ofcen defeated the Saxons, 
 died and was buried there. The Danes took this city twice 
 by'ftorm, and the Saxons as often retook it. In Edward the 
 Conftflbr's time it is faid to have had one thoufand and feventy 
 houfes; and William of Maimefbury relates, that in the time 
 of the Normans it was one of the moft populous cities in &ng-» 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 437 
 
 land, and a mart for all forts of goods coming by land or wa- 
 ter. King William the Firft built a caftle here ; and, about 
 the fame time, the bifhop's fee was tranflated hither fromDor- 
 chefter, in Oxfordfhire. This is ftill reckoned the largeft 
 diocefe in all England, though Ely, Peterborough, and Ox- 
 ford, have been taken out of it. 
 
 The cathedral was efteemed the glory of Lincoln; for its 
 magnificence and elevation is fuch, that the monks concluded 
 it would chagrin the devil to look at it ; and thence a fly four 
 look by a proverbial expreffion is compared to the devil's look- 
 ing over Lincoln. The city formerly abounded with monaf- 
 teries, churches, &c. fo that many barns, ftables, and even hog- 
 fties, feem to be the ruins of them, from the ftone walls, and 
 arched windows and doors. The river on the weft fide of the 
 town below the hill forms itfelf into a great pool, called Swan 
 Pool, from the great number of fwans on it, The Roman 
 north gate, called Newport Gate, ftill remains entire ; it is a 
 vaft femicircle of ftone, not cemented, but as it were wedged 
 in together ; and near this gate is another curious piece of Ro- 
 man workmanfhip, called The Mint Wall, with alternate layers 
 of brick and ftone, ftill about fixteen feet high and forty long. 
 In other parts of the city are many remains of the old Roman 
 wall, and feveral funeral monuments of the Normans have 
 been dug ug over againft the caftle. To the weft is an in- 
 trenchment made by King Stephen, and here are carved in ftone 
 the arms of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancafter, In the cen- 
 tre of the old caftle, which was built by the Romans, and re- 
 paired by the Saxons, is a modern ftrudlure where the affixes 
 are held. The city is a county of itfelf, and has extenfive 
 power and privileges. On the down of Lincoln is fometimes 
 feen that rare bird called the Buftard j the country hereabout 
 is very rich and agreeable ; the noble tract of Lincoln heath 
 extending like Salifbury Plain above fifty mi!er. The cathe- 
 dra) or minfter of Lincoln, is a (lately Gothic piis of excellent 
 workmanfhip, and reckoned by fame equal to that of York, . 
 and was fucceflively brought to perfection oy feveral of its N 
 bifhops. Here is the fineft great bell in England, called Tom 
 of Lincoln, near five ton weight, containing four hundred and 
 twenty- four gallons ale-meafure, and near twenty-three feet in 
 compafs. Among other tombs is one of brafs for Qjeen 
 Eleanor, wife to Edward the Firft, and another of Catharine 
 Swiniordj third wife of John of Gaunt, and mutherof the 
 
 Somerfet 
 
438 
 
 LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 Somerfet family, now Dukes of Somerfet. Thispileftandingon a 
 hil) may be feen fifty miles tothe north a and thirty to the South, 
 and is one of the largeft in England ; and the middle or rood 
 tower is alfo reckoned the higheii in the whole kingdom. The 
 cpifcopal palace is a magnificent ftructure, and was built by 
 Remigius, firft Bifliop of Lincoln* 
 
 MARKET TOWNS* 
 
 Grantham is one hundred and ten miles from London* 
 and is governed by an alderman, twelve juftices of Che peace, 
 a recorder, a coroner, an efcheator, twelve fecond twelve men, 
 who are of the common-council, and twelve conftables to at- 
 tend the court. This is a rich, neat, populous town, much 
 frequented, and has feveral good inns. Here is a fine churchy 
 with a ftone fpire, one of the lofdeft in England, being two 
 hundred and eighty feet high; but is fo conftrgdled as to appear 
 inclining from the perpendicular, on which fide foever it is 
 viewed. Here is alfo a good free-fchool, built and endowed 
 by Richard Fox, Bifhop of Winchefter, a native of this place* 
 befides two charity-fchools. On a neighbouring courfe there 
 are frequent horfe-races. 
 
 Stamford is eighty-nine miles from London, and is a 
 very ancient town, it fends two members to parliament, and 
 is a corporation, governed by a mayor, aldermen, recorder, 
 and common-council. It boafts of great privileges, being 
 exempted' from the jurifdiclion of the (her iff, and the lord- 
 lieutenant of the county. It is alfo remarkable for onecuftom 
 obferved :n it* which is, that the younger fons inherit what 
 hnds and tenements their fathers, who die inteftate, were pof- 
 feffed of in this manor. 
 
 The town ftandsjuft where the three counties of Lincoln* 
 Northampton, and Rutland meet. The river Wetland is na- 
 vigable to lt barges. On the fouth bank of it was formerly 
 a Ttrong caftk, called Stamford Baron ; and from a butcher's 
 dog feizing a mad bull, and entertaining the Earl of Warren 
 with the Iport, the cruel practice of buii-baiting took its rife 
 here j for he gave the meadow for a common to the outchers, 
 on condition they fhouid find a mad bull fix weeks before 
 Chriftmas. The town is finely fituated on the declivity of a 
 
 hill 
 
L.I N C O L.N SHIRE. 
 
 Hill to tbg river; has a (lone bridge of five arches over the ri- 
 ver Welland,a handfome hall, and fix parifli churches, in cms 
 of which, viz. St. Martin's, that famous ftatefrnan, Lr> d Bur- 
 leigh, lies buried, in a fplendid tomb ; and in the church ad* 
 joining to the bridge is a fine monument of the late Earl and 
 Countefs of Exeter, in white marble, with their figures cum- 
 hent as big as. the life, and ddne at Rome. The chief trade is 
 malt, fea coa! 3 and (r^eftone. 
 
 Bolingbrokle is one hundred and thirty-four miles from 
 London, and is a fmall town, containing nothing worthy of 
 remark ; but is fomewhat noted for having beeh the birth phce 
 of Henry the Fourth, who was furnamed from it Henry of 
 Boliogbrcke. 
 
 Louth is one hundred and fifty-five miles from London, 
 and is a confiderable town, pleafantly fituated on a fmall ftr-am, 
 called the Lud, from whence it is fuppofed to have received 
 its name. It was formerly famous for a Benedictine convent, 
 founded by Alexander, Bilhop of Lincoln, Chancellor of Eng- 
 land, in the reign of King Stephen ; but there are no remains 
 of it. The town is now handfome and populous, and the 
 church is a noble Gothic itruclure, with a fpire thac is near 
 three hundred feet high. Here is a free-fchoal, founded by 
 King Edward the Sixth. 
 
 Gainsborough is one hundred and fifty miles fromLon* 
 doji, and is a place of great antiquity, pleafantly fituated on 
 the river Trent, near the borders of Northarnptonfhire. It 
 is a large, populous, well-built town, containing many hand* 
 feme houfts, and carries on a very confiderable trade, by means 
 of the Trent and Humber. The church is an handfome 
 ftruclure, built in the modern tafte, and there are feverai dif- 
 fer; ting meeting- he ufes here. The weekly markets are well 
 fuppikd with provifions, and the market-place is handfome. 
 §hips of confiderable burthen come up to the harbour. 
 
 , Grimsby isonehundredand fixty-eight miles from London, 
 and is faid, rn point of antiquity, to b? the fecond, if not the 
 fir.ft corporation in England. It was formerly extremely po- 
 pulous, but is now greatly decayed 5 for the harbour having 
 £ecn negkeiedj no (hips of burthen can come into it, fo that 
 
UO LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 the trade chiefly depends upon coals. The parifil church it 
 fo large, that it looks like a cathedral. 
 
 Boston is onehundred and twenty miles from London, and 
 is an ancient and famous town, built on both fides the river 
 Witham, over which there is an high wooden bridge, a little 
 below which the river falls into the fea. It has long been a 
 flourifhing town, and isfaid to have been incorporated firft by 
 King Henry the Eighth. Queen Elizabeth gave the corpora- 
 tion a court of admiralty over all the neighbouring fea coafts* 
 It is governed by a mayor, who is chief clerk of the market, 
 and admiral of the coaft, a recorder, a deputy recorder, twelve 
 aJdermen, a town clerk, eighteen common-council men, a 
 judge, and marfhal of the admiralty, a coroner, two ferjeants 
 at mace, and other officers. The town is pleafantly fituated 
 and well built. Here is a church, reckoned the largefi para* 
 chial church, without crofs ifles, in the world, being three 
 hundred feet long within the walls, and onehundred feet wide • 
 thecieling is of Englifa oak, fupported by tali flender pillars! 
 This church has three hundred and forty- five fteps, fifty-two 
 windows, and twelve pillars, anfwering to the days, weeks, 
 and months of the year ; its tower, which was built in the 
 year 1309, is two hundred and eighty feet high, and has a beau- 
 tiful octagon lanthorn on the top, which ferves as a guide to 
 mariners when they enter the dangerous channels called Lynn fc 
 Deeps, and Bofton Deeps in the Waffles, and is the admira- 
 tion of travellers, being feen at the diftance of forty miles 
 round. The town has a commodious harbour, is fupplied 
 with frefli water by pipes from a pond in a great common, cal- 
 led the Weft Fen, where a water houfe and a mill wereere&ed 
 in the reign of Queen Anne, by aft of parliament. It is the 
 refidence of many confiderable merchants, and carries on a 
 good trade, both inland and foreign, yet many of the inhabi- 
 tants apply themfelves to grazing of cattle with great advan- 
 tage. An annual fair is held here for cattle, and all forts of 
 merchandize, which lafls nine days, and is called a mart by J 
 way of eminence; and fo are the fairs of Gainfborough, Lynn 
 Regis, a borough town of Norfolk, and Beverley, a borough 
 town of Yorklhire, but no other in England. All the coun- 
 try in the neighbourhood of this town is marfh lands, which 
 are very rich, and feed vail numbers of large fheep and cattlv* 
 
 HoRNCASTLSj 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 44* 
 
 Hqrncastle, which is one'hu ndred and forty-two miles 
 from London, is a large and ancient well-built town on the 
 river Bane. It plainly appears to have been a camp, or ftatioa 
 ot the Romans, not only from its caftle, which was a Roman 
 work, but from the Roman coins often turned up in the 
 ground near the place wherethe cattle flood. Part of the wall 
 of the caftle is ftill remaining, and is about four yards thick, 
 and ftrongly cemented with mortar. There are feveral fmall 
 ftreams here, fo that about three parts of the town are fur- 
 jounded with water. 
 
 Burton", called alfo Burton Stather, is one hundred 
 and fixty-eight miles from London, and ftands very well for 
 trade, on the eaft fide of the Trent, whereon it has feveral 
 mills, and the houfes are pleafantly intermixed with trees ; 
 and many fcenes about the place are exceedingly rural and ro- 
 mantic. Here are two churches, one or which is fo low ia 
 refpeft of the precipice over it, that a perfon may almoft leap 
 from it on the fteeple, 
 
 Crowland is ninety-four miles from London, and is fa- 
 mous for its abbey, which was fiift built by Ethelbald, King; 
 of Mercia, in the year 716. It was afterwards burnt by the 
 Danes in 870 5 bat King Edred, about the year 948, rebuilt 
 it, and it continued in great wealth and fplendour till the ge- 
 nera! diflbluticn. Great part of the abbey-church is ftill 
 ftanding> though in a decayed condition, particularly the ftee- 
 ple, with the fine windows of the great weftern ifle, adorned 
 with carved work, and images as large as the life. 
 
 The town of Crowland ftands among the fens, and confifts 
 of three ftreets, feparated from each other by canals, planted 
 with willows, which give it a very romantic appearance. 
 There is a communication by a bridge over-againft the weft 
 end of the abbey, buiit in a triangular form to%nfwer to the 
 ftreets. It is fo curious a fabric, that it is not to be equalled 
 in England, if it is in Europe. It is formed on three feg- 
 ments of a circle, meeting in one point, and eacn bafe they fay 
 ftands in a different county, viz, Lincolnfhire, Cambridge- 
 fhire, and Northamptonfhife. It is aifo fkuated upon 'the 
 centre of the conflux of the river Nyne with the Welland. 
 
 The greateft gain of the inhabitants is from filh and wild 
 ducks ; of which they fometimes drive three thoufand into a 
 
 Vol. I. 3 K wt 
 
 / 
 
44* 
 
 LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 net at once by dogs ; and they are brought thither by decoy 
 ducks bred for the purpofe. For the liberty of fiming, they 
 pay now to the King, as they formerly did to the abbot, three 
 hundred pounds a year. As no carts ever come here, by rea- 
 son of the impaffablenefs of the boggy foil* it was a common 
 proverb, that all the carts which come to Crowland were (hod 
 with filver ; bat the foil is much improved of late by drains 
 and fluices, and moft of the ponds are now turned into corn 
 fields. A caufey leads from hence between the river Welland 
 and the marfties; on which, about two miles from Crowland, 
 there formerly flood a pyramid, with an infcription, denoting 
 that it was the utmolt boundary of the abbey's jurif- 
 di&ion, which was a fort of ifland, three miles in length, 
 and three in breadth. The roof of the abbey church fell 
 down about feventy years ago. It was of Irifh oak, finely 
 carved and gilt ; and pieces of it are ftill to be found in many 
 houfes. It was made a garrifon during the civil war. Over 
 the weft gaie of the church are the images of divers Kings, 
 abbots, &c. and, among the reft, St. Guthliac, to whom the 
 abbey was dedicated, with a whip and knife, his ufual fym- 
 bq!s$ and he lies buried in a little ftone cottage, not far, from 
 the abbey, called Anchor Church Houfe, where there was for- 
 merly a chapel, in which he lived a hermit. There being no paf- 
 ture near them, the people go in little feerries to milk th« 
 cows. 
 
 Barton is one hundred and fixty-fix miles from London, 
 and is a large ftraggiing town, of but little note, except for a 
 common but dangerous ferry over the Humber to Hull. 
 
 Wainfleet is one hundred and thirty-five miles fron* 
 London, and is a well compared town, fituated in the fenny 
 parts, near the fea. It is noted for having been the birth place 
 of William of Wainfleet, Bifhop of vVinchefter, who was 
 not only the founder of a fine grammar- fchool here, but of 
 St. Magdalen College, in Oxford. 
 
 Spalding is one hundred and four miles from London, 
 and is fituated upon the river Welland, by which it is almoft 
 furrounJed. It is alfo furrounded at a greater diftance with 
 lakes, canals, and other bodies of water, and is indeed a more 
 ueatand populous town than could be expe&ed in fachafituatioa 
 
 Here 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE, 
 
 44J 
 
 Here is an handfome large market place, a free gram mar- fchool 
 for the fons of the inhabitants, and a charity fchool. This 
 town has alfo a fmall port, and a bridge over the Welland, 
 which is navigable to the town for vefiels of fifty or fixty tons. 
 To this port belong feveral barges, that are chiefly employed 
 in carrying coals and corn. 
 
 Thong Castor is one hundred and fifty-feven miles T orn 
 London, and is {aid to have derived its name from the follow- 
 ing circumftance, though the truth of the ftory itfelf has been 
 disputed : Hengift, the Saxon, we are told, as a reward foe 
 having driven back the Scots and Pidls, obtained from Vorti- 
 gern, a grant of as much ground here as he could encompafs 
 with the hide of an ox cut into fmall thongs ; on this ground 
 he built a caftle, which for that reafon was called, Thong 
 Caftle. There are ftill confiderable remains of the caftle, 
 which feems to have been built in the Roman manner; and 
 under the walls are feveral fine fprings, near which is a moft 
 beautiful grove of elms. The church is a venerable Gothic 
 ftrudiure. 
 
 Folkingham is one hundred and feven miles from Lon- 
 don, and is fituated on a pleafant heath, in a very healthful 
 air, and isfupplied with feveral extraordinary good fprings. 
 
 Alford is an obfeure town, about five miles from thefea, 
 and is one hundred and forty-fix from London. 
 
 Binbroke is one hundred and fifty-nine miles from Lon- 
 don, and is fituated between Thing Caftor and Louth. 
 
 Bourn ftands on a plain adjoining to the fens of Lincoln- 
 fhire, at the diftance of ninety-eight miles from London. Ic 
 is remarkable for tanning leather, and for a horfe courfe. 
 
 Burgh is one hundred and thirty-eight miles from Lon- 
 don, and is fituated between Sahfleet and Wainflset. 
 
 Corby, which (lands in the road from Market Deeping fo 
 Grantham, was formerly a confiderable place, but is now 
 much decayed. Here is a fchool endowed for educating the 
 fons of poor clergymen* It is ninety miles from London. 
 
 3 K 2 HoLBEACH 
 
444 
 
 LINCOLNSHIRE* 
 
 Holeeach is one hundred and fifteen miles from London, 
 fituated among the fens, and of great antiquity. Many re- 
 mains of walls and pavement, together with urns and coins, 
 have been dug up here. The church is a noble Gothic 
 flru&ure, with a lofty tower and fpire, and is feen at a great 
 diftance over the fens* 
 
 Market Deeping is ninety miles from London, and is 
 fituated among the fens, on the north fide of the river Wel- 
 Jand. Near this piare is a vale, many miles in compafs, and 
 the deeped in all this marfty county, from which it is thought 
 this town had its name, Deeping fignifying a deep meadow. 
 
 Kirkton, or Kirton lindsey, derives its name from a 
 ki*k or church here, which is built in the form of a cathe- 
 dral, and i; very magnificent. It Hands at the diftance of 
 one hundred and fifty miles from London, and is famous for 
 a fort of apple, called the Kirkton Pippin* 
 
 Market Rasen is one hundred and fifty miles from Lon-» 
 don, and is fo called to diftinguifh it from EaJl^JVe/i^ and 
 Middle Rafen^ three neighbouring villages ; all of which, to- 
 gether with this town, are fituated near the fourceof the river 
 Ankam. 
 
 Saltfleet is one hundred and fixty-ihree miles from 
 London, and is pleafantly fituated on the German Ocean. It 
 was formerly a place of feme confiderable trade, but is now 
 greatly decayed. It has fiill an harbour for (hipping ; but 
 this has been much neglecled, and there are now no vefiels 
 that ufe it above the ordinary fize of lighters. 
 
 Glandford Bridge is one hundred and fifty-fix miles 
 from London; fituated on the banks of the river Ankam, 
 snd is a confiderable town, containing fome very good houfes, 
 with a ftone bridge over the river* 
 
 Dunnington is one hundred and feventeen miles from Lon? 
 don, and its market is famous for a large fale of hemp and 
 hemp feed. It has a port for barges, by which goods are car- 
 fk$ tp and from Bolton and the Waihes. 
 
 Sle^ford 
 
I 
 
 \ 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE. 445 
 
 SleafoRD is one hundred and fixteen miles from London 5 
 it is a large populous town, pleafantly fituated near thefource 
 of a fmall ftream, that rifes from the confluence of fprtngs, 
 and runs through the town with fo much rapidity, that it 
 drives feveral milb, and is never frozen even in the coldeft 
 day in winter. The church is a ftately Gothic ftrucl jre, 
 one hundred and feventy-two feet in length, feventv-two feet 
 broad in the front, and thirty at the eaft end, and has a lofty 
 tower. The market place is oppofi.te the weft front of the 
 church, and near it is a good free-fchool, which was founded 
 and handfomely endowed in ibo u by Robert Carr, Efq; who 
 aifoereclcd and endowed an hoipual ia this place for twelve 
 poor men. 
 
 Tattershal is one hundred and thirty- four miles from 
 London, and is a town of great antiquity, but now much 
 decayed. It was formerly noted for a ftrong caftle, built footi 
 after the Norman invafion, which remained till cbe reign of 
 Henry the Sixth, when Ralph, Lord Cromwell, built here a 
 noble collegiate church. Great part of this ftately ftrudture 
 
 is deftroyed, except the great tower, which is adorned with 
 four beautiful pinnacles, much admired by thofe who vifit it, 
 Thethinneii part of the wails is fifteen feet in breadth, and 
 
 the tower is two hundred feet high. 
 
 Stanton is an inconfiderable town, one hundred and fif- 
 ty five miles from London. 
 
 Spilsby is one hundred and thirty-eight miles from Lon» 
 don, and has a well-frequented market* 
 
 Remarkable Seats, Villages, Curiosities, &c. 
 
 Belvoir Co/lie, a feat of the Duke of Rutland, is about four 
 miles from Grantham, and is feen almoft in the clouds on the 
 top of a vaft hill, for many miles around. It is a very mag- 
 nificent building, and has a fine gallery of paintings; and, as 
 its name imports, commands a beautiful profpeel into the 
 counties of Nottingham, D rby, Leicefter, Rutland, and 
 Northampton. It was originally built by Robert de Tedenci, 
 pr Tetencio, foon after the Norman invafion, and was after- 
 wards 
 
446 
 
 LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 wards rebuilt by an Earl of Rutland. From the rooms of 
 this houfe you have a very diftind view of Lincoln-minfter, 
 though it is thirty miles diftant ; Newark is alfo feen in the 
 centre of the valley 3 and Nottingham is eafily difcerned. 
 
 Grimfihorpe^ a feat of the Duke of Ancafter, is about eleven 
 miles from Grantham. His Grace's park is of very great ex- 
 tent ; the road leads through it for the courfe of about three 
 miles. The houfe appears extremely magnificent at the very 
 firft view, being admirably fituated on a hill, with fome very 
 fine woods ftretching away on each fide ; many hills and flopes 
 feen in different directions, and all pointing out as it were an 
 approach to the dwelling. In the vale before the houfe is a 
 noble piece of water, with two pretty yachts upon it ; and 
 the banks are boldly indented with creeks in a fine ftile. The 
 houfe is extremely convenient, and fome of the apartments are 
 very elegantly fitted up. The hall is fifty feet long, by forty 
 broad, and of a very well proportioned height. Here is a 
 neat chapel ; and as you return through the hall, you are con* 
 dueled up the ftair-cafe, into the principal apartment : The 
 firft is a tea room richly ornamented with fluted pilafters of 
 the Corinthian order, finely carved and gilt, the ceiling, cor- 
 nices, &c. in a moft light and elegant tafte, with gilt fcrolls 
 on a light lead colour. Next is the dining room, forty feet 
 by twenty-feven, with two bow windows fitted up with gilt 
 ornaments on a blue ground. The ceiling the fame, on white 
 in compartments. The feftoons of gilt carving among the 
 pi&ures, &c. are in a light and pleafing tafte. The chimney 
 piece is one of the moft elegant in England; under the cor- 
 nices are three baflb relievos in white marble, the centre a man 
 pulling a thorn out of a lion's paw, well executed ; thefe are 
 upon a ground of Siena marble, and have a fine efted; they 
 are fupported on each fide by a a fluted Ionic pillar of Siena. 
 In this room are feveral family portrait?, and King Charles 
 the Firft, and his family by Vandyke $ a large and fine pic- 
 ture. In the next room is a painting of Codes defending the 
 bridge; two landfcapes ; a fine pidure of a fire in a town, 
 at night ; the figures in the front ground are numerous and 
 -well grouped, and the light is well exprefTed; Chrift crowned 
 with thorns ; two large pieces of cattle ; a battle ; and a 
 Dutch fair. ^ 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE. 4+7 
 
 The blue damaflc bedchamber is elegant ; it is hung with 
 blue paper, upon which are painted many different landfcapes 
 in blue and white, with reprefrntations of frames and lines 
 and taffels in the fame* the toilet in a bow-window, all blue 
 and white. 
 
 Out of this room you enter the breakfafting clofet, which 
 is extremely elegant; quite original, and very pleafmg. It 
 is hung with fine India paper, the ceiling in arched compart- 
 ments, the ribs of which join in the centre in the gilt rays of 
 a fun, and the ground is prettily dotted with coloured India 
 birds ; the window-fhutters, the doors and the front of the 
 drawers, let into the wall, all painted in fcrolls and feftoons 
 of flowers in green and white and gold ; the fofa, chairs, and 
 ftool frames of the fame. 
 
 At Jfperby, near Sleaford, the Earl of Briftol has a feat ; 
 as has alfothe Earl of Lincoln at Sempringham. 
 
 Within a mile of Grantham, in a delightful valley, {lands 
 Beltoriy a modern built houfe belonging to Lord Brownlow. 
 It is one of the moft regular and beautiful feats in this county, 
 adorned with curious gardens and a large park. Here is a 
 noble obfervatory, erected on an eminence, in the form of a 
 triumphal arch, called Belle Mount) which affords a fine 
 view of the country* 
 
 Summer Cajlle, on Lincoln Heath, was built by Sir Cecfl 
 Wray, and by the inhabitants is called The Cliff \ being a high 
 ridge of country, between a rich vale on one fide, and the 
 wolds on the other. Confidering the general face of the 
 country, which is uncommonly open, the view from Summer 
 Caftle is very fine ; the vallies well wooded, and the lake is fo 
 formed as to unite very happily with the adjoining wood. It 
 is a very fine water, above half a mile long, and of a great 
 breadth, and the furrounding fhores are truly beautiful. The 
 groves of wood, the draggling trees, and the fmail enclofures, 
 every where vary the appearance. 
 
 Paunton, a village fouth of Grantham, is fuppofed to have 
 been the ddPontem of the Romans, not only from the fimili- 
 tude of the names, but from tile diitances affigned to places in 
 
 regard 
 
448 LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 regard to rhis. Chequered Roman pavements, and o!her 
 marksof antiquity, have often been dug up here. 
 
 BridgecaJlerton 9 a village north-weft of Stamford, where a 
 fma!) river, called the Guafh or Wafh, croffes the Roman 
 highway, is fuppofed to have been The Guafennaoi the Jim* 
 peror Antoninus* 
 
 Ancajler was a village of the Romans, and is thought to 
 have been the antient Crococalana. This town abounds fo 
 much with remnants of antiquity, that it has been a cuftom 
 for the inhabitants, after a hafty fhowe% to go in fearch of 
 them upon the declivities of the town, and' in The neighbour- 
 ing quarries, and they have many years carried on akind of 
 trade by the fale of them. 
 
 At a village called HiberJIow, near Kirkton, upon the Ro- 
 man highway, are ftili to be feen the foundations of feverai 
 Roman buildings, with tiles, coins, and other remains of Rq~ 
 man antiquity. Several fuch remains have aifo been difco- 
 vered about Broughton^ a village near Glanford Bridge. 
 
 At Roxby, a village near Burton, fome years ago was di /co- 
 vered a Roman pavement* 
 
 At Winterton Cliff, in the north-weft extremity of this 
 county, are many remains of Roman buildings. 
 
 At Alkboroughy two miles more to the weft, there is ftill a 
 fmall fquare entrenchment or camp, now called Count efs Clofe 
 from a Countefs of Warwick, who, it is faid> lived there, or 
 owned the eftate. The caftle here, it is obferved, was very 
 con l eniently placed by the Romans, in the north-weft an^le 
 of the county, as a watch-tower, to overawe Nottingham* 
 fhire and Yorkshire. c 
 
 At Fleet in the Fens, a village north-eaft of Spalding, there 
 were found, not many years ago, three pecks of Roman cop- 
 per coins, piled down edge-wife, moft of them of • the Empe- 
 ror Gallienus* 
 
 Near 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE. 449 
 
 Near Harlaxton, a village within two miles of Grantham, 
 a brafen vefiel was ploughed up, containing fome filver beads, 
 and an antique helmet of gold, ftudded with jewels ; all which 
 were prefehted to Catharine of Spain, Queen Dowager cf 
 Henry the Eighth, 
 
 At a village called Tarlurghy near Horncaftle 5 are the re- 
 mains of a large Roman camp ; and fachjquantities of Roman 
 coins have been dug up here, that one Howfon of Kenning- 
 ton, a village in the neighbourhood, is faid at onetime to have 
 been in poffeflion of fome pecks of them. 
 
 At Omby 9 near Rafen-Market, in fome fields joining to the 
 great road between Stamford and Hull, a borough town of 
 Yorkflbire, brafs and filver coins have been plowed up, having 
 a view of the city of Rome on one fide, with the inscription^ 
 JJrbs Roma 9 and on the reverfe, Pax et Tranquilitas* 
 
 On fome hilb, between Gainfborough and a neighbouring 
 village called Lea, many Roman coins and pieces of Roman 
 urns, have been dug up ; and one of thefe bills called Cajlle 
 Hill^ is furrounded with intrenchrnents* faid to inclofe above 
 an hundred acres* 
 
 Near Humington^ above five miles from Grantham, there is 
 a Roman camp, called Julius Ccefar's Doable Trench ; and here, 
 in the year 1651, as many Roman coins were found in an 
 urn, or earthern pot, as would fiil a peek. 
 
 The High Dyke, commonly called The High Street* is the 
 famous Roman highway, which pafles from Stamford through' 
 Lincoln, and from thence to the Humber. 
 
 At Gedntyt a village near Holbeach, is a very handfome 
 church, fuppofed to have been built by the abbots of Crow- 
 land, to whom the manor belonged. It has a ftately tower, 
 but this is fuppofed to be of a laser date than the other pares 
 of the ftrudlure, 
 
 A few miles north-weft of Tatterfhal is Tupham* or > a $ it 
 was anciently called Tupholm, a confiderable village? where 
 Vol. I. 2 L oas 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE, 
 
 one of the family of Nevil founded a convent for monks of 
 the order of St, Auguftine,of which great part is ftill {land- 
 ing, and it appears to have been an exceeding handfome 
 firu&ure. 
 
 A little north of Coftiam is Newjham rfb&ey, a fmall y\U 
 lage, but famous for a convent of Premonftratenfion monks^ 
 V^hich was founded in the reign of King Stephen. 
 
 Near Burton, at the confluence of the Trent and fome 
 ether rivers, is a tract of land called The IJland of ^xholm^ 
 which is about ten miles long, though in many places not 
 above four in breadth. It contains three villages, namely, 
 Growle, Epwortb^ and Hyrji and m the two laft were for- 
 merly two mpnafteries. 
 
 Torkfey, a village fituated upon the Trent, at the influK of 
 the Foifle Dyke into that river, was a place once famous for 
 many privileges, which it enjoyed upon condition that the in- 
 habitants fhould, whenever the King's Ambafladors came that 
 way, carry them down the Trent in their own barges, and 
 condudl them as far as the city of York. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of this village is a -nunnery founded 
 by King John, great part of which is ftill {landing, from 
 which it appears to have been a very handfome ftrufture. 
 
 The village of Stow rs a pfcace of great antiquity, and is 
 faid to have been the fee of a bifhop before the cathedral of 
 Lincoln was built. Here is an ancient Gothic church, ex* 
 t^edingly large, " 
 
 North-eaft of Glandford Bridge, near the mouth of the 
 Humber, are the remains of Thornton College or Abbeys where, 
 in taking down a wall, not many years ago, the workmen 
 found the fkeleton of a man, with a table, a book, and a can- 
 dleftick; the man isfuppofedtp have been immured there for 
 fome heinous crime. 
 
 Scrivel/by Hall^ not far from Horncaftle, is the manor of the 
 Pymocks, who hold it upon condition, that at the corona- 
 
LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 45* 
 
 lion, the then lord, or fome perfon in his name, if he be not 
 able, {hall come well armed into the royal prefence, on a war 
 horfe, and make proclamation, that if any one (hould fay, that 
 the fovereign bath no right to the crown, he is ready to defend 
 his right againft all that (hall oppofe it. 
 
 About fix miles eaft of Lincoln is a village called Bulllngt^ 
 where was a convent founded in the reign of King Henry the 
 Second. Some of the walls of this ftrudture are ftill {landings 
 With a (lately tower 3 executed in a very curious manner. 
 
 A little to »the eaftward of this village is another named 
 Wragby^ pleafantly lituated on a fmall ftream. Here is am 
 alms-houfe, built and endowed by Sir Edmund Turner, in. 
 1697, for twelve poor people, fix of whom are to be minifters 
 widows, and fix to beany other poor old men or women ; he 
 alfo erecled a chapel for their public devotion, with an endow- 
 ment to the minifter or fchoolmafter, for performing divine 
 Service in it twice a day. 
 
 In the village of Sornerton, a (lately caftle was built by An- 
 thony Beck, Bifhop of Durham, a warlike prelate, who lived 
 in the reign of Ed ward the Firft, The tower and fome other 
 parts of the building are ft ill ftanding, from whence it appears 
 $0 have been a place of great ftrengthu 
 
 On the north-weft fide of Sleaford is a place called Temple 
 Bruer % where there are the remains of a church, built by the 
 Knights Templars $ and near it are the remains of a ftone 
 frofs. 
 
 Woolflhorpe^ a little village on the great north road between 
 Stamford and Grantham, is memorable for being the place of 
 nativity of that illuftrious philofopher, Sir Ifaac Newton. 
 The houfe in which he was born, which is a kind of a farm- 
 houfe, built of ftone, is ftill remaining* The learned Dr. 
 Stukeley vifited it in 172 1, and was (hewed the infide of it by 
 the country people; and in a letter to Dr, Mead on this occa- 
 fion, he fays, <c They led me up flairs, and Ihewed me Sir 
 ** Ifaac's ftudy, where 1 fuppofe he ftudied when in the coun* 
 
4 $2 LINCOLNSHIRE. 
 
 cc try, In his younger days, as, perhaps, when he vifited hh 
 <c mother from the univerfity. I obferved the (helves were of 
 <c his own making, being pieces of deal boxes, which, pro-> 
 u bably, he fent his books and clothes down in upon thefs 
 
 * c occafions." 
 
 END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
I 
 
 N 
 
 D 
 
 E 
 
 X 
 
 TO THE 
 
 COUNTIES, CITIES, 
 MARKET - TOWNS, VILLAGES, &c. 
 
 Defcribed in the FIRST VOLUME, 
 
 jBBOTSBURT, 203 
 Abbot's Langlcy, 351 
 Abingdon , 17 
 Aldworth, 39 
 Alford, 443 
 Alfreton, 145 
 Alkborougb, 4 (.8 
 Jiresfird, 317 
 Alton, 317 
 Altringham^ 87 
 Alvefton, 295 
 Amerjham* 43 
 Amptbilli 5 
 
 Amwel-1,351 * 
 Ancafter, 448 
 AncliffV, 425 
 Andover* 313 
 Appledore, 185 
 Arbury, 77 
 
 AJhborne^ 145 
 AJhbuYton^ 1 74 
 ^&iy la Zouch % 430 
 Aflidon, 273 
 AJbford, 384 
 Audre, 7 / 
 Auft, 295 
 
 Axbolm, IJland of y 453 
 Axmitijler, 174 
 Aylejbury y 41 
 
 B. 
 
 Bakewelt, 145 
 Balaocky 346 
 B amp ton 1 179 
 Barkings 238 
 Barham Downs, 408 
 Barkway, 346 
 Barnard's Cajile^ 215 
 Earnst) 341 
 A 2far»» 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Barvftaple, }j 2 
 Barnwell, 78 
 Barrow, 295 
 ^Barton, 425 
 Barton, 442 
 Bafingfloke, 314 
 Beacons field, 44 
 Beamifler, 203. 
 Bedford, 3 
 
 BEDFORDSHIRE, ibid. 
 Bcefton Caftle, 89 
 Beiton, 433 
 Berealflon, ij>8 
 Bere Regis, 203 
 Berkeley, 288 
 Berkhampfiead, 343 
 Berry Pomcrv, 186* 
 BERKSHIRE, 13 
 Beverftone Caftle, 294 
 Bid ford, 169 
 Biiglejwade, 6 
 Bi lief don, 431 
 Binbroke, 443 
 Binchefter, 222 
 Eirchington, 393 
 Birdiip Hill, 296 
 Biiham, 38 
 Bifhofs Aukland, 216 
 Bifhop's Stanford, 345 
 Bi&op's Tawron, i 85 
 Blackbourn, 423 
 Blackbeath, 410 
 Black Notley, 271 
 Blakernore, 209 
 B- and ford, j 91 
 Backing, 271 
 Bodmin, 98 
 Bolingbroke, 439 
 Bo (fever, 108 
 Bolton, 422 
 Eoreharn, 270 
 Bofcafile, 108 
 Boffmefi too 
 
 ■#2/?**, 440 
 Bofwortb, 43 f 
 Bourn, 443 
 Bowe, 180 
 Braintree, 240 
 Brampton, J31 
 Braughing, 3^ 
 Bray, 30 
 Brent, igo 
 Brentwood, 237 
 
 Bridgecafterton, 438 
 Bridport, 196 
 Bromley, 37^ 
 Bromyard, 330 
 Broughton, 448 
 Buckfaftleigh, 185 
 Buck ingham, 40 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE^ 
 
 Bullings, 451 
 Bulnefs, 134 
 
 Buniingfordy 345 
 Burgh, j 57 
 
 443 
 Burnley, 423 
 Burton, 441 
 Buxton Wells, 148 
 -B#ry 3 422 
 
 Calling ton, 107 
 Cambridge, 61 
 
 CAMBRIDGESHIRE, 59 
 
 Camelford, 107 
 Campden, 284 
 Cannons Hall, 259 
 Canterbury, 301 
 Cardington, 12 
 Careftrook Caftle, 323 
 Carlisle, 127 
 Cartmel, 4 1 9 
 Caflington, 433 
 Caftle Camps, 77 
 
 Caftle 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Caftle Hedingham, 274. 
 Caftle Hill, 295 
 Caftle Treryn, in, 116 
 Caxton, 75 
 Cerne Abbas 203 
 Chapel in the Frith, 146 
 Charley, 423 
 Charlton, 404 
 Chatham, 401 
 Chegford, 185 
 Chelmsford, 225 
 Cheltenham , 284 
 Cheping On gar, 236 
 Cherley, 433 
 CHESHIRE, 79 
 Chefliunt, 351 
 Chefilhurft, 406 
 Cheffil Bank, 207 
 Chester, 81 
 Chejlerfeld, 144 
 Chefterford, 273 
 Chefter in the Street, 223 
 Chefterton, 78 
 Chigvvell, 260 
 Chingford, ibid, 
 Chrijl Church, 316 
 Chudleigh, 179 
 Chulmleigh, 180 
 Cirencejler, 282 
 Claybrook, 433 
 Cleave Hill, 296 
 Cliff, 4 Q 3 
 Clitbero, 423 
 Cobham, 403 
 Cockermouth, 128 
 Coggejkal, 240 
 Colcbejler, 226 
 Colford, 285 
 Collerton, 433 
 Collumpton, 179 
 Colnbrook, 44 
 Colne, 42 3 
 Comb Martin^ 173 
 Coaling Caftle, 403 
 
 Congleton, 85 
 Copford, 273 
 Cophill, 12 
 Corby, 4.43 
 Corfe C a file, 200 
 CORNWALL, 9 i 
 Cranbourne % 202 
 Cranham, 265 , 
 Cray ford, 385 
 Credit on y 176 
 Crickley Hill, 296 
 Crocken Torr, 182 
 Cromhall, 294. 
 Crow land, 44.1 
 Crumford, 161 
 Culliton 3 180 
 CUMBERLAND, 126 
 
 D. 
 
 Dagenhaoi Breach, 265 
 Dale Abbey, 157 
 Dalton, 423 
 Darlington, 215 
 Dartford, 372. 
 Dartmouth, 168 
 Datchet, 37 
 £W, 379 
 Deptford, 399 
 Z><?r£y, 142 
 DERBYSHIRE, 141 
 Devil's Arfe, 151 
 
 DEVONSHIRE, 162 
 Dedham, 242 
 Dodbrqok, 179 
 Dorchejler, 188 
 Dornfcrd, 350 
 
 DORSETSHIRE, 187 
 Dove Dale, 161 
 Dover, 379 
 Doyer Court, 230 
 Dtiward Hiil 3 3^2 
 ^Bronfield, i 45 
 Dunwow, 241 
 
 2 
 
I 
 
 Dunning ton, 444 
 Dunftafile, 4. 
 DURHAM, 210 
 Durham, 211 
 Durjley, 289 
 
 E. 
 
 Eaft Burnham, 57 
 Eaft Ham, 268 
 Eaft lifer, 19 
 Eaft Looe+ IC4, 
 Ebchefter, 223 
 Ecclejion, 423 
 E :en Hole, 148 
 Egremont, 131 
 Elham, 385 
 Elftne, 350 
 Elcham, 406 
 Fly, 60 
 
 236 
 
 Ep^ing Foreft, 262 
 ESSEX > 224 
 Eton, 41 
 Ever /hot, 202 
 Exeter, 164 
 F. 
 
 Fair ford, 285 
 Falmouth) 101 
 Farnham > i > \ t ] 
 Farnharn, 57 
 Farringdon , 1 9 
 Fenny btrafford* 44 
 Feverjhvm 
 Fiamitead, 352 
 Fltet in the Fens, 448 
 Folkingham, 443 
 Folkjione, 381 
 Fordingbridge, 317 
 Fowey, 102 
 Frampton, 2Q2 
 Frdh water, 325 
 Frodjbam) 86 
 
 N D E jr. 
 
 G. 
 
 Gain/borough^ 43^ 
 Gatftang, 423 
 Gedney, 449 
 Giant's Caftle. 114 
 Glandf or d Bridge^ 444 
 Gloucester, 281 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE, 
 276 
 
 Godmanchefter, 358 
 Gog Magog Hills, 77 
 Goodrich, 333 
 Go/port, 314 
 Goudhurj?, 385 
 Grampound, 107 
 Grantham* 438 
 Grave fend, 373 
 Graz* Dean* 288 
 Great Marlow, 43 
 Greenwich, 367 
 Grimjby, 439 
 Gudelion^ 118 
 Gurnard's Bay, 324 
 
 H. 
 
 Hadley, 275 
 H dftoclc, 273 
 Hallaton, 431 
 Halldown, 181 
 Hal /lead, 241 
 Ha It on, 85 
 Hamildon Hill, 209 
 HAMPSHIRE, 298 
 Ha rbledown, 407 
 Har borough, 430 
 Harewood, 12 
 Harlaxton, 449 
 Hart land, 175 
 Hartlepool, 217 
 Harwich, 228 
 Hajlingdon, 423 
 Hatfield, 239 " 
 
 Hather- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Hat her ley, 180 
 
 Havant, 317 
 
 Havering at Bower, 263 
 
 Havvkefliead, 420 
 
 Hedingham Sible, 276 
 
 Helfton, 100 
 
 Hempfled, 344 
 
 H>nhault Foreft, 261 
 
 Hereford, 327 
 
 H REFORDSHIRE, 326 
 
 Hermitage, 208 
 
 Hertford, 334 
 
 HERTFORDSHIRE, 334 
 
 Hexton, 353 
 
 Hibcrfton, 448 
 
 Higham, 4O3 
 
 Higham, 432 
 
 High Wiccomb, 42 
 
 Hinckley 1 431 
 
 Hitching^ 346 
 
 Hvdoefdon^ .40 
 
 H, lb each, 444 
 
 Holmes, IJl nd of, 275 
 
 Ho niton, 1 jo 
 
 Hornby, 421 
 
 Horncajlie, 441 
 
 Horjey. IJland of, 27.5 
 
 Houl [worthy, 1 80 
 
 Humingion, 44.9 
 
 Hunger) or d, 18 
 
 Hunidon, 350 
 
 Huntingdon, 355 
 
 HUNTINGDONSHIRE, 
 
 354 > 
 Hurfte Caftle, 320 ' 
 
 /jjjrlfa, 38 I 
 
 I. 
 
 llfracomb, 174 
 IngateJlonSj 239 
 Ivingo, 44 
 
 K. 
 
 Kelvedon Hatch, 261 
 KENT, ^60 
 Kent's Hole, 182 
 Kenwitb CaRle, 185 
 Kerris, 114 
 Kimbolton, 356 
 King/bridge, 179 
 Kingfclere, 316 
 Kingfwood Foreft, 294 
 King's Langley, 351 
 Kirkham* 422 
 Kirkman, 426 
 Kirk Oiwald) 131 
 Kirkron, 444 
 Knott es ford, 87 
 Kynan's Cove, 116 
 Kyneton, 330 
 
 L» 
 
 Lamborn, 261 
 Lambourne^ 19 
 Laajerton, 184 
 Lancajier 4*5 
 LANCASHIRE, 413 
 Lanchefter, 222 
 Latham, 426 
 Launceflon, 98 
 Ledbun, 330 
 Le*, 405 
 Leicejler, 428 
 
 LEICESTERSHIRE, 427 
 Leighton Buzzard, 6 
 Lenham, 385 
 Leomi?tfler, 329 
 Letchlade* 288 
 Lewilhani, 40/ 
 Leyton, 266 
 Lid ord, 184 
 Lincoln, 436 
 LINCOLNSHIRE, 435 
 Linton, 75 
 Lijkeard, 99 
 Little Chdter, 157 
 Little Dunmow, 271 
 Liale Ilford, 26s 
 
I N 
 
 Liverpool, 41 8 
 Longtown, 131 
 Loflwlthiel, gg 
 Loughborough, 430 
 Louphton, 262 
 Louth, 439 
 Luton, 6 
 
 Lutterworth, 435 
 Zjr^, 386 
 
 Lymington, 315 
 
 M. 
 
 Macclesfield, 84 
 
 Madern, 112, II§ 
 
 Maidenhead, 17 
 
 Maidjlom, 383 
 
 Maiden, 242 
 
 Malpas, 86 
 
 Malvern Hills, 332 
 
 Mam Tor, 148 
 
 Manche/ler, 416 
 
 Manning Tree, 242 
 
 Marcky Hills, 332 
 Margate, 387 
 Marke t Deeping, 444 
 Market Jew, 108 
 Market Rafen, 444 
 Marfh, 74 
 Marjhfield, 288 
 Mar wood, 2 1 5 
 Matlock, 157 
 Melborn, 157 
 Milccmb, $97 
 Melton, 430 
 Middlewich, 86 
 Milton, 375 
 Milton Abbas, 202 
 Minching Hampton, 289 
 Mrftley Thorn, 275 
 Modbury, j8o 
 Monk's Rifborough, 58 
 Monkton, 389 
 yon fa! Dak, 161 
 
 D E X. 
 
 Morefby, 140 
 Morton, 180 
 Morton in Marjh, 289 
 Moulton, 177 
 Mount/ore/, 431 
 Moufchole, 108 
 
 N, 
 
 Namptwicb, 84 
 
 Ne(ham, 221 
 
 Newbury, 15, 
 
 Newest, 289 
 
 New Foreft, 319 
 
 Newmarket, 73 
 
 Newport, Cornwall, 108 
 
 Newport, Ijle of Wight, 322 
 
 Newport Pagnell, 44 
 
 Newftiam Abbey, 450 
 Newton Bujhel, 180 
 Newton, Ijle of Wight, 323 
 Newton, Lancajhire % 420 
 Nortbfleet, 406 
 iNorth Foreland, 407 
 IMorthill, 12 
 Northleech, 287 
 
 Q. 
 
 Odiham, 316, 320 
 Okehampton, 179 
 Oldbury, 295 
 Old Windfbr, 36 
 Omby, 449 
 Ormjkirk, 42 1 
 0//<?ry, 178 
 Oulney, 44 
 Overburrow, 425 
 Oxenhall, 221 
 
 P. 
 
 Pad/tow, 106 
 Painfwick, 286 
 Faun ton, 447 
 Pcmbridge, 330 
 
 Pendens 
 
I N 
 
 D E X, 
 
 Pendennls, 124 
 Penrith^ 129 
 Pen Park Hole, 294. 
 Penryn 9 102 
 Penzance , 106 
 Peters fields 315 
 Pewet I/land, 275 
 Plymouth) 166 
 Plympton, 173 
 Poole^ 194 
 Pool's Hole, 150 
 Portchefter, 320 
 Portland IJlandy 206 
 Port/mouth) 304 
 Poulton, 421 
 Pre/cot) 422 
 Pre/ion) 419 
 Purbeck IJland, 207 
 Puckle Church, 295 
 
 a 
 
 S^ueenborough, 386 
 R. 
 
 Ramfey) 357 
 RavenglaS) 130 
 Reading) 13 
 Redburiv, 352 
 Redruth, 10S 
 Rickmanjworth, 342 
 Ringwood) 316 
 Rochdale, 422 
 Rochester, 363 
 Rochford) 2*3 
 ityr, 329 
 K.oxb) 5 448 
 Roy ft on, jq. 
 Rumfordy 238 
 Rumney, 382 
 Rumney fvlarfli, 409 
 Rumjey) 315 
 
 S. 
 
 &r/r** Walden y 231 
 Saltajh) 101 
 
 Salt fleet, 444 
 Sandbach) 87 
 Sancred, 118 
 Sandown, 323 
 Sandwich) 377 
 Sandy, 12 
 SanghiH, 88 
 Sarre, 389 
 Scilly IflandS) log 
 Seavenfhale, 135 
 Sevenoke) 384 
 Shaftejbury, 190 
 Sharpnor Caftle, 323 
 Shefford, 6 
 Shepwajh) 180 
 Shenfield, 270 
 Sherborne) 192 
 Shields ^ 221 
 Shooter's Hill, 4T3 
 Shorne, 403 . 
 Sidmouth) 178 
 Silchefter, 319 
 Sithney, 111 
 Sleaford, 445 
 Sodbury Chipping, 287 
 Soham, 75 
 Somerton, 451 
 South Foreland, 408 
 Southampton, 310 
 South Weald, 263 
 Spalding, 442 
 445 
 
 Spinney, 76 
 St. Agnes, in 
 5/. Alb an' s, 336 
 Stalbridge, 202 
 Stamford, 438 
 StandoU) 345 
 Stanley Leonard) 286 
 Stanton, 445 
 5/. yf«/&, 108 
 St. Bunen, no 
 St. Cleer, 113 
 £/, Columb Major, 10 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Stevenage, 244 
 
 St. Germans, 105 
 
 St, Helens, 325 
 
 St* Ives, Cornwall, 104 
 
 St. Ives, Huntingdon/hire, 3 
 
 St, Juft, 112 
 
 St. Mary's, 318 
 
 St. Maw's* 105 
 
 5/. Michael* s,io6 
 
 St. Michael's Mount, ic6 
 
 5/. AWx, 356 
 
 Stockbridge, 313 
 
 Stockport, 87 
 
 Stockton, 216 
 
 5/0«*y Stratford, 43 
 
 St, Ofyth, 275 
 
 Stourbridge, 75 
 
 Stow, 450 
 
 tf» /fo Would, 287 
 Stratton, ic8 
 
 Stratford Langthorne, 268 
 
 Stroud, 286 
 
 St. Vincent's Rock, 293 
 Sturminjler Newton, 202 
 Sunderland \ 214 
 Sunning Hill, 36 
 Swanfcomb, 406 
 Swavefey, 77 
 
 T. 
 
 Tapioe,5 7 
 Taiterjhal, 445 
 Tavijhck, 178 
 Temple Bruer,45l 
 Tenter den, 382 
 Tetbury, 290 
 Tewkejbury, 283 
 Thanet, IJle of, 387 
 Tbaxted, 241 
 Theubalds, 351 
 Theydon Gcrnon, 261 
 Theydon Mount, 261 
 3fi!tf/Jf£ Cajlor, 443 
 Tbombury, 287,294 
 
 Thorney, 76 
 Tidefwell, 145, 149 
 Tilbury Fort, 269 
 Tiverton, 171 
 Topjham, 179 
 Torbay, 185 
 Torkfey, 450 
 Torrington, 177 
 Totnes, 176 
 Totteridge, 350 
 Tregony, 108 
 Treiowarren, ill 
 Trefcaw, 114 
 5TWff£, 342 
 Trumpington, 78 
 Truro , 102 
 Tunbridge, 383 
 Tunbridge Wells, 410 
 Tupham, 4 4.9 
 U. 
 
 Vlverflon, 421 
 
 W. 
 
 IPadebridge^ 108 
 Wainfleet, 4.42 
 Wailingford, 18 
 Waltbam, 316 
 Waltbam dbbey, 231 
 Waltbam on the Would, 43a 
 Walthamftow, 257 
 Wanfted, 258 
 Wantage^ 19 ' 
 Wardon, 12 
 /^?r^, 3^0 
 Wareham, 198 
 Warrington, 420 
 Watford, 342 
 Weoley, 330 
 W ft Cowes, 323 
 Wt ft Ham, 207 
 £00*, 104 
 j^/? Mailing, 384 
 Wefipnmg, 12 
 Weftram, 38b 
 Welt Waunam, 262 
 
 We) hill, 326 
 
I N 
 
 D E X. 
 
 Waybill, 320 
 Weymouth, 198 
 Whitchurch^ 315 
 Whitehaven, 129 
 White Horfe Hill, 39 
 Wickware, 290 
 Widcombe, 296 
 Wigan, 421 
 Wight, IJIe of, 330 
 Wigtown, 132 
 Wuloughby Broke, 434. 
 Wimbourn Minjier, 201 
 Winchcombe, 290 
 Winchester, 299 
 Windfor, 15 
 Winjlow, 44 
 Winjler, 145 
 Winfton, 222 
 Wintertoa Cliff, f 4.8 
 
 Wirhworth, 144 
 Wijbeach, 74 
 Witham, 24.O 
 Woburn, 5 
 
 Wodenfborough, 409 
 Woodbury Hiil, 208 
 Woodchefter, 294 
 Woodford, 259 
 Woolfthorpe, 451 
 Woolwich, 37 1 
 Wotton under Edge, z3g 
 Wragby, 4.51 
 Wroth am, 38 r 
 387 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yaf burgh, 449 
 
 Yarmouth^ 322 
 Yaxley, 357 
 
 3 
 
 INDEX 
 
I N D E X 
 
 r O THE 
 
 ROYAL PALACES, 
 
 AND 
 
 NOBLEMEN'S & GENTLEMEN'S SEATS, 
 
 Defcribed in the FIRST VOLUME, 
 
 A. 
 
 ABERCORN's, Lord, near Witham, 254 
 Albyns, Sir Anthony Thomas Abdy's, 248 
 Anthony, the feat of the Carews, 109 
 Aftmry Park, Lord Craven's, 39 
 Auberies, Mr# Andrews's, 256 
 Audley Houfe, Sir John Griffin Griffin's, 246 
 Aynfcomb's, Mr, at St. Leonard's Hill, 36 
 
 B. 
 
 Bacon's, Mr. at Walthamftow, 247 
 Badmington Magna, Duke of Beaufort's, 292 
 Baileys, Earl of Godolphin's, 57 
 Barrington Houfe, 248 
 Barberham's, Mr. Bennet's, 75 
 
 Bathurft's, Earl, near Ciren<fefter 291 5 at Modingham, 394 
 Beaumont Lodge, Colonel Montague's, 37 
 Bedford's, Duke of, at Ampthill, 6 
 Bekon, Lord Brownlow's, 447 
 
 Belvedere 
 
INDEX* 
 
 Belvedere Houfe, Sir Sampfon Gideon's, 390 
 Belvoir Caftle, Duke of Rutland's, 445 
 Biffrons, Mr. Gafcoyne's, 251 
 Bifliop's Hall, Mr Waylet's, 248 
 Blackwell'f, Mr. near Lewifham, 392 
 Bond's, Mr. at Steeple, 205 
 Bowles's, Mr. at Wanfted, 247 
 Braxted Lodge, Mr. Du Cane's, 254 
 Bridgewater's, Duke of, at Afhbridge, 58 
 Brompton Brian Caftle, 331 
 Brumham, Lord Trevor's, 12 
 Buckden Palace, Bifliop of Lincoln's, 358 
 Buxton's, Mr. at Great Braxted, 254 
 
 C. 
 
 Calcraft's, Mr. near Dartford, 392 
 
 Camden Place, Earl Camden's, 395 
 
 Cafliiobury Park, Earl of Eflex's, 349 
 
 Chatham's, Earl of, at Hayes, 397 
 
 Chatfworth Houfe, Duke of Devonshire's, 146 
 
 Chickfand Priory, Sir George Ofborne's, it 
 
 Chiffinch's, Mr. near Northfleet, 392 
 
 Clapham, Earl of Aihburnham's at, 12 
 
 Clay's, Mr. on Golden Hill, 249 
 
 Cleave Court, Mr. Farrer's, 390 
 
 Cliefden Houfe, 55 
 
 Clifton, Earl of Uxbridge's, 205 
 
 Cobham Hall, Earl of Darnley's, 392 
 
 Coker, Mr. Car's, 220 
 
 Cold Hal), Mr. Holden's, 254 
 
 Coningfby's, Earl of, near Leominfter, 330 
 
 Coomb Bank, Duke of Argyle's, 395 
 
 Cooperfale, 249 
 
 Copped Hall, Mr. Conyer's, 250 
 Cotton's, Sir Robert, near Connington, 358 
 Cranbourne Lodge, Duke of Gloucefter's, 35 
 Cranhara Hall, late General Oglethorpe's, %$t 
 
 Danfon Hill, Sir John Boyd's, 395 
 Dawney Court, Sir Charles Palmer's, 57 
 Deux Hall, Mr. Lockwood's, 248 
 Ditton Park, 56 
 
 Donnington Caftle, Mr. Andrews's, 37 
 Douglas's, General, at Witham, 254 
 Dj ti%& Hall, Mr* Sperling's, 256 
 
 B a Felix 
 
INDEX. 
 
 F. 
 
 Felix Hall, Mr. Matthews'** 254. 
 Ferrers's, Ear), at Stanton Harold, 432 
 Fludyers's, late Sir Samuel, near Blackheatb, 394 
 Ford Abbey, Mr. Gwyn's, 181 
 FormarkHall; Sir Robert Burdett's, 153 
 Foot's Cray, Mr. Harence's, 391 
 
 G. 
 
 Geddy Hall, Mr. Benyon's, 251 
 Gorhambury, Lord Grimftone's, 349 
 Goring Houfe, Mr. Bofanquet's, 251 
 Gosfield Hall, Lord Clare's, 255 
 Granard's, Lord, at Langley Green, 56 
 Greenfted Hall, Mr. Robotier's, 250 
 Green-ftreet, Mrs. Whitefide's, 252 
 Grimfthorpe's, Duke of Ancafter's, 446 
 Grofvenor's, Mr. at Walthamftow, 247 
 Guildford's, Earl of, at Walderfliire, 395 * 
 
 * H. 
 
 Haddon Hal!, Duke of Rutland's, 155 
 
 Halidown, Lady Chudleigh's, l8l 
 Hatfield Houfe, Earl of Salifbury's, 349 
 Hawnes, Earl Granville's, 12 
 Hedingbam Caftle, Sir Henry Hoghton's, 255 
 Hide,Mr. Hollis's, 253 
 Hfgham Hall, 257 
 Highlands, Mr Comyns's, 253 
 Hill Hall, Sir C. Smith's, 249 
 Hinchingbroke, Earl of Sandwich's, 358 
 Hitcham Houfe, 57 
 Hoare's, Mr. at Boreharn, 246 
 Holland's, Lord, near Margate, 393 
 Honeywood's, General* at Marklhall, 255 
 Houghton Park, Earl of Upper Oflbry, ix 
 Howlet's, Sir Thomas Pycn Hales's, 305 
 Huntingdon's, Earl o f , near Loughhorough, 432 
 Hurftbourne Park, Earl of Portfmouth's, 317 
 
 I. 
 
 Ham's, Mr. Port's, 156 
 Ingatcitone Hall, Lord Petre's, 253 
 
 K. 
 
 JCcddSeftone Hall, Lord Scarfdaie's, 151 
 Kelvedon Ditto, Mr, Wright's, 249 
 Kiiby Ditto, Mr, Muilman's, 256 
 
 * Kirkby 
 
INDEX* 
 
 Kirkby Hcufe, Mr. Kirkby's, 424. 
 Kimbolton Caftle, Duke of Manchefter's, 357 
 Knowle, Duke of Dorfet's, 397 
 Knowfley Houfe, Earl of Derby's, 423 
 
 Tarn 
 
 Lambe's, Mr. near Fairford, 293 
 Langley Park, Duke of Marlborough's, 56 
 Langley's, Mr. Tuffners, 254 
 Lees Court, Lord Sondes's, 
 Leyton Manor Hall, Mr. Blaydon's, 252 
 Loughton Ditto, 250 
 Lul worth Caftle, Mr. Wyld's, 206 
 Lumley Ditto, Earl of Scarborough, 220 
 Lutoo Hoo, Earl of Bute's, 10 
 Luxborough, Mr. Raymond's, 248 
 
 M. 
 
 Melbury Sampford, Earl of Ilchefter's, 205 
 Mereworth Caftle, Lord Defpenfer's, 597 
 Miles's, Mr. Luther's, 249 « 
 Milton Abbey, Lord Milton's, 204 
 Miftley Hall, Mr.Rgby's, 256 
 Montreal, Lord Amherft's, 396 
 Moor Critchell, Mr. Sturt's, 205 
 Moor Park, Sir Thomas Dundas's,347 
 Mere's, Mr. at Leyton, 252 
 Moulfliam Hall, Sir W.Mildmay's, 252 
 Mount Edgcumbe's, Lord Edgcumbe's, 109 
 Muilman's, late Mr. at Dagenham, 250 
 
 N. 
 
 Nafli Court, Mr. Hawkins'5, 393 
 Naveftock Hall, Earl of Waldegrave's, 248 
 Newhall, 245* 
 
 O. 
 
 Oakover, the late Mr. Oakover's, 155 
 Oldfield Grange, Mr. Hanb.ury's, 254 
 Oliver's, Mr. at Leyton, 252 
 
 P. 
 
 Page's, late Sir Gregory, at Blackheath, 394 
 
 Parker's, Mr. near Wahham Abbey, 251 
 
 Pelham's, Mr. at Lee, 394 
 
 Penley Lodge, 350 
 
 Penihurft, Mr. Perry's, 396 
 
 Percy Lodge, Earl of Tankerville's, 56 
 
 Pirgo, Lord Archer's, 251 
 
 Pieydeli's, Mr. at Milborn St. Andrews, 2*5 
 
I N D E X. 
 
 Portfmouth's, Earl of, near Whitchurch, 319 
 Powderham Caftle, Lord Courtenay's, 181 
 Profpeft Houfe, Mr. Moxam's, 24.8 
 
 R. 
 
 Raby Caftle, Earl of Darlington's, 217 
 Radbourn, Colonel Pole's, 155 
 Reftormel Caftle, 117 
 Rogers's, Mr. at Weft Cowes, 323 
 
 S. 
 
 Scrivelfbv Hall, 450 
 
 Shaw's, Sir John, near Eltham, 392 
 
 Sherborne Caftle, LordDigby's, 204 
 
 Sidney's, Mr, in Margaretting, 254 
 
 Somer Hill, 396 
 
 Southams, Mr. Delabere's, 293 
 
 Southill, Lord Torrington's, at, 11 
 
 Squirries, 397 
 
 Stamford's, £arl of, at Groby, 432 
 
 Stoke Houfe, 56 
 
 Stone Caftle, Mr. Talbot!s, 392 
 
 St. Ofyth Priory, late Earl of Rochford's, 256 
 
 Stow, Marquis of Buckingham's, 45 
 
 Summer Caftle, Sir Cecil Wray's, 447 
 
 Swinley Lodge, 36 
 
 T. 
 
 Tawftock, SirBourchier Wrey's, 181 
 Theobalds Palace, 348 
 Tillies's, Mr. near Saltafh, 109 
 Towers's, late Mr. at South Weald, 250 
 Tie ma ton Caftle, 117 
 
 U. 
 
 tfndercombe, Mr. Eyres's, 57^ 
 
 Valentine's, Mr. Raymond's,^ 
 
 Wanfbd Houfe, 244 
 
 Warner's, Mr. at Woodford Row, 247 
 
 Wigmore Caftle, 331 
 
 Wimborn St. Giles, Earl of Shaftefbury's, 204 
 
 Windfor Caftle, 19 
 
 Windfor Lodge, 33 
 
 Wi burn Abbey, Duke of Bedford's, 7 
 
 Woiflcy's, Sir Richard, in the Ifle of Wight, 324 
 
 Wisft Houfe, Duke of Bedford's, 7 
 
; 
 
/ 
 
 i i