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From the Library ©£ 
 
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A 
 
 HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 IN 
 
 DEVON and CORNWALL. 
 
 EIGHTH EDITION, REVISED, 
 
 WITH MAPS AND PLANS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 1872. 
 
 The right of Translation is reserved. 
 
LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET, 
 AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
INTRODUCTORY NOTICE. 
 
 The present Edition of the Handbook for Devonshire and Cornwall 
 has been greatly enlarged. In the Devonshire section many of the old 
 routes have been rearranged, and some new routes have been added. 
 
 This has been rendered necessary by the opening of new lines of 
 railway, which render more easily accessible some of the most inter- 
 esting and picturesque parts of the county. The most important of 
 these are — the line from Exeter to Okehampton (Rte. 6) ; that from 
 Newton Abbot to More ton Hampstead (Rte. 8) ; and that from Totnes 
 to Buckfastleigh and Ashburton (Rte. 12). 
 
 Considerable attention has been paid to the history and antiquities 
 of the two counties. County societies (such as the recently-formed 
 Devonshire Association) and local antiquaries have of late years 
 laboured much in this direction ; and the results of their enquiries 
 have been duly embodied in the Handbook. 
 
 The most convenient centres for the tourist, and the places at which 
 he will find the best accommodation — especially on, and in the neigh- 
 bourhood of, Dartmoor, where such information is most needed — are 
 carefully noted in the several routes. 
 
 The Editor begs to acknowledge the assistance which has been most 
 kindly given to him by numerous personal friends and by man}' 
 unknown correspondents. Those who may detect errors or omissions 
 are earnestly requested to send notes of them to the Editor, care of 
 Mr. Murray, 50a, Albemarle Street. 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 Introduction 
 
 Page 
 
 ix 
 
 Section I. — DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 *** The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 
 
 described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 1 London to Exeter (Great W estern 
 
 Railway) .... 2 
 
 2 London to Tiverton (Great 
 
 W estern Rly.) ; Tiverton to 
 Crediton (Road) . . .37 
 
 3 London to Exeter (S. W. Rail- 
 
 way). Axminster , Honiton , 
 
 Otter y St. Mary . . .41 
 
 4 Lyme Regis to Exeter (Road) ; 
 
 by (Seaton), Sidrnouth , Bud- 
 leigh Salterton , and Ex- 
 mouth . . . . .54 
 
 5 Exeter to Exmouth (Rly.) • 69 
 
 6 Exeter to Okehampton (North 
 
 Devon Rly. ; and also by 
 Road.) Neighbourhood of Oke- 
 hampton , Cawsand or Cosdon 
 Beacon , Lidford , Brent Tor ; 
 Okehampton to Launceston 
 (Road and Rly.) . . .71 
 
 7 Exeter to Plymouth (S. Devon 
 
 Rly.). Powderham , Dawlish, 
 Teignmouth , Newton Abbot , 
 Totnes ( Excursions from Tot - 
 nes ), Plympton , Plymouth 
 (Excursions from Plymouth ) 88 
 
 8 Exeter to Moreton Hampstead 
 (by Road, and by the New- 
 ton and Moreton Railway). 
 Dunsford Bridge , Bovey 
 Tracey , Hey tor, Manaton , 
 Lustleigh . — Moreton by Chag- 
 ford to Okehampton (Road). 
 Drewsteignton , Neighbourhood 
 
 of Chagford . . .140 
 
 9 Exeter to Torquay, by (South 
 
 Devon Rly.). Neighbourhood 
 of Torquay . . .163 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 10 Torquay to Brixham and Dart- 
 
 mouth (Dartmouth and Tor- 
 bay Rly.). — The Coast from 
 Dartmouth to Kingsbridge 
 (SI apt on, Torcross , the Start, 
 the Prawle, Scdcombe, the 
 Bolt) 174 
 
 11 Exeter to Newton Abbot by 
 
 Chudleigh . ( Ugbrooke, Hal- 
 don) 190 
 
 12 Totnes to Buckfastleigh and 
 
 Ashburton. (Rly.) Buckland, 
 Holne, Holne Chase . .195 
 
 13 Moreton Hampstead to Tavi- 
 
 stock (Road). Dartmoor , 
 Prince Town . . .206 
 
 14 Plymouth to Tavistock and 
 
 Launceston (S. Devon and 
 Tavistock, and Tavistock and 
 Launceston Railways) . .222 
 
 15 Plymouth to Modbury and 
 
 Kingsbridge (Road). The 
 Coast from Kingsbridge to 
 Plymouth .... 240 
 
 16 Totnes to Plymouth (Road). 
 
 Ermington, Yealmpton . . 247 
 
 17 Exeter by Crediton to Barn- 
 
 staple and Bideford. South 
 Motion, Torrington, Instow , 
 Westward Ho . . . 249 
 
 18 The North Coast. Lynton and 
 
 Lynmouth to Hartland , Combe 
 Martin, Hfracombe, Clovelly . 270 
 
 19 Taunton to Lynmouth and 
 
 Lynton, by Watchet, Dunster , 
 Porlock . . . .296 
 
 20 Bampton to Holsv:orthy, by 
 
 South Molton and Torrington 298 
 
v x 
 
 
 Section II. — CORNWALL. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 21 Launceston to Truro, by Bod- 
 
 min. (Road : over the Bod- 
 min and Goss Moors. Brown 
 Willy and Boughtor ; Hanter- 
 ganticli , Dozmare ) . .303 
 
 22 Launceston to Truro, by Camel- 
 ford , Wadebridge, and St. Co- 
 lumb . (The North Coast. 
 Boscastle ; Tintagel ; Delabole 
 Quarries ; Padstow ; the Vale 
 
 of Mawgan ; Newquay) . 317 
 
 23 Plymouth to Truro , by Salt- 
 
 ashy St. Germans, Liskeard 
 (the Cheesewring, St. Neot's), 
 Bodmin, Lostwithiel ( Bestor - 
 met), St. Blazey, and St. 
 Austell . [Cornwall Rail- 
 way.] ( Perranzabuloe ; Per- 
 ron Bound ; the Coast ) . 337 
 
 24 Plymouth ( Bame Head) to 
 
 Falmouth, by Looe, Fowey, 
 and St. Austell. (The South 
 Coast ) .... 375 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 25 Plymouth to Bude Haven, by 
 
 Saltash, Callington, Laun- 
 ceston, and Stratton. (The 
 Coast from Bude to Morwen- 
 stow) 387 
 
 26 Truro to Falmouth, by Penryn. 
 
 (Falmouth Harbour and In- 
 lets) 399 
 
 27 Truro to Penzance, by Bed- 
 
 ruth (Portreath, Carnbrea ), 
 Camborne, and Hayle ( Le - 
 lant, Ludgvan). Mount's 
 Bay , Madron . . . 405 
 
 28 Truro to Penzance, by Helsion 
 
 and Marazion. The Lizard. 
 
 (The Coast from Helston to 
 Penzance) . . . .421 
 
 29 Excursions from Penzance. (St. 
 
 Michael's Mount, St. Ives , 
 Gurnard's Head , Cape Corn- 
 wall, Land's End, Lamorna 
 Cove , Scilly Islands ) . . 437 
 
 Index 480 
 
 Plan of Exeter 7 
 
 Plan of Exeter Cathedral 15 
 
 Plan of Plymouth, Stonehouse, and Devonport .. .. 112, 113 
 
Since the sheets of this Handbook have been in print, a short line 
 of railway (6 m.) has been opened from Bideford to Torrington. Tor- 
 rington, therefore (described in Route 17), is now easily accessible by 
 the North Devon Railway. 
 
 It should also be said that, during the summer, a coach runs occa- 
 sionally in the week from Okehampton Station (Route 6) to Bude 
 (Route 25), proceeding by Hatherleigh and Holsworthy (Route 20). 
 The distance is about 30 miles. A coach also runs from Bideford to 
 Bude, but does not follow the line of coast. The distance is nearly 
 the same. The days on which these coaches run may be ascertained 
 at Exeter, or at any station on the North Devon Railway. 
 
( i* ) 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Tage 
 
 History ix 
 
 Antiquities xviii 
 
 Geology xxxii 
 
 Mines xliv 
 
 Fisheries lviii 
 
 Page 
 
 The Traveller’s General 
 
 View lxii 
 
 Old Language lxxi 
 
 The Duchy of Cornwall .. lxxiii 
 i Skeleton Tours lxxiv 
 
 History. 
 
 § I. There are some facts in the early history of Devon and Cornwall 
 with which it is very necessary that the traveller should make himself 
 acquainted, if he wishes to understand clearly the antiquities and the 
 local nomenclature of the two counties. 
 
 Before the end of the 6th century the English conquest had, as a 
 whole, been accomplished ; — that, is, all that part of Britain had been 
 subdued which was thenceforward to be purely and exclusively Teu- 
 tonic. But the complete supremacy of the island was yet to be won; 
 “and the whole west side of the island, including not only modern 
 Wales, but the great kingdom of Strathclyde, stretching from Dun- 
 barton to Chester, and the great peninsula containing Cornwall, Devon, 
 and part of Somerset, was still in the hands of independent Britons.” — • 
 Freeman , * Norm. Conq.’ i. After the year 577, when the British 
 towns of Gloucester, Cirencester, and Bath, were taken by the English, 
 the river Avon remained for a long period the limit between the two races, 
 and Bath was the frontier city. South and west of the Avon extended 
 the independent British kingdom of Damnonia ; the lord of which, in 
 Dr. Guest’s words, must for some time at least, “ have been little in- 
 ferior to the King of Wessex himself, either in the extent or in the 
 resources of his dominions.” The name “ Dumnonii,” given to the 
 British tribes inhabiting this western corner of the island, first occurs 
 in Ptolemy; and “ Dumnonia,” or “Damnonia,” — the Latinized name 
 of the later kingdom, — seems to be the same with the Cymric Byf - 
 naint , which survives in the present “ Devon,” and has been interpreted 
 as meaning “the dark or deep valleys” = “deutf neynt” (Corn.). The 
 English settlers, as they gradually advanced westward, called them- 
 selves Defenas = men of Devon or Dyfnaint — adopting the British 
 name of the country, and indicating by that very fact the broad diffe- 
 rence between the English settlements in such a district as Devon, 
 
 a 3 
 
x History • Introd. 
 
 where British influence so long lingered, and in southern or eastern 
 England, where the Britons were expelled or exterminated, and where 
 the “ East Sexe ” and the “ South Sexe,” the “ North Folk ” and the 
 “ South Folk,” altogether blotted out the old names and associations of 
 the country in which they established themselves. 
 
 § II. But the English did not advance beyond Bath for a considerable 
 time. In 658 Cenwealh “ fought with the Britons at Pen,” in Somer- 
 setshire, and drove them beyond the Parret. Taunton at a later period 
 became the frontier- town of Wessex (it was built by Ina some time 
 before 722); and the borders of the British kingdom gradually nar- 
 rowed, until about 926, Athelstan drove the Britons from Exeter, and 
 fixed the Tamar as the limit between them and the English “Defenas.” 
 But before that time, the power and influence of the British king- 
 dom had been greatly lessened. Egbert, in 813, “ harried” the pen- 
 insula “from eastward to westward;” the king of Wessex had been 
 recognised as the overlord of the British king and kingdom ; and 
 the supremacy of the English had been fully established throughout 
 West Wales . This is the name given to the country of the Western 
 Britons — part of Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall — in the English 
 chronicles, as opposed to North Wales, which there embraces the 
 whole of what is now the “Principality.” “ Wales” is the country 
 of the “Wealhas” — the “Wealcyn” — that is, of the “strangers” or 
 “foreigners;” — all, in short, who were not English were “Wealhas.” 
 “ West Wales” was thus the name by which the English of Wessex 
 called the country which the British lords of it knew as “Damnonia ” 
 or “ Dyfnaint.” 
 
 § III. Damnonia, it should be recollected, was, when the English 
 first came into contact with it, a Christian kingdom. Its chiefs, many 
 of whom bore the name of Geraint (Gerontius. It is to a Geraint, “ the 
 most glorious king of Damnonia,” that Aldhelm addressed his famous 
 letter (a.d. 705) about the keeping of Easter) were distinguished ; and 
 at least as late as the time of Ina of Wessex, Damnonia was still, both 
 in power and dignity, the first of the British kingdoms. Its power had 
 delayed the English advance ; and when the conquerors did at last 
 extend their settlements westward, they had themselves become Chris- 
 tians. The result was that the wars of the English with the West- 
 Welsh were not wars of extermination, as had been the case in those 
 parts of England which had been first conquered and settled. Instead 
 of destroying the Britons, or expelling them from the occupied country, 
 the English offered them in West Wales better and easier terms. “ It 
 was conquest, and no doubt fearful and desolating conquest, but it 
 was no longer conquest which offered the dreadful alternatives of 
 death, banishment, or personal slavery. The Christian Welsh could 
 now si down as subjects of the Christian Saxon. The Welshman was 
 
 acknowledged as a man and a citizen He was no longer a w r ild 
 
 beast, an enemy, or a slave, but a fellow-Christian living under the 
 king’s peace. There can be no doubt that the great peninsula stretch- 
 ing from the Axe to the Land’s End was, and still is, largely inhabited 
 
Introd. 
 
 History . xi 
 
 by men who are only naturalized Englishmen, descendants of the 
 Welsh inhabitants, who gradually lost their distinctive language, and 
 became merged in the general mass of their conquerors. In fact the 
 extinction of the Cornish language in modem Cornwall within com- 
 paratively recent times was only the last stage of a process which 
 began with the conquests of Cenwealh in the seventh century. The 
 Celtic element can be traced from the Axe, the last heathen frontier, 
 to the extremities of Cornwall, of course increasing in amount as we 
 reach the lands which were more recentty conquered, and therefore less 
 perfectly Teutonized. Devonshire is less Celtic than Cornwall, and 
 Somersetshire is less Celtic than Devonshire, but not one of the three 
 counties can be called a pure Teutonic land like Kent or Norfolk.” — 
 Freeman , 4 Norm. Conquest,’ i. pp. 34, 35. 
 
 § 1Y. Among the traces of the 44 Celtic element” in Devonshire must 
 be reckoned a class of names occurring for the most part on Dartmoor, 
 which indicate that a numerous British population, partly perhaps 
 engaged in mining, continued to occupy portions of the highlands long 
 after English colonists had established themselves in the richer country. 
 Such names as 44 Wallaford ” — the road of the 44 Wealhas” or Welsh- 
 men, or 44 Wallabrook” — the Welshmen’s stream, are frequently met 
 with ; and the many Wallabrooks are generally marked by a group of 
 circular hut foundations (see Bte. 7), giving proof that the name had 
 been bestowed with reason. (It is of course unnecessary to assume, 
 as has been done, that each of these 44 Wallabrooks” was a boundary 
 stream.) True Celtic names — such as Penquit = the head of the wood, 
 Pennycross = the head or hill of the cross — occur in many parts of 
 Devonshire; and in some instances — as in “Pinhoe,” near Exeter, the 
 scene of the Danish victory in 1001 — the British name (pen = height) 
 has been explained by an English addition (hoe) with precisely the 
 same meaning. It may here also be remarked that, whether owing 
 to any special circumstances under which the English settlement of 
 Devonshire was effected, or whether resulting from the natural con- 
 dition of the country as it then existed, English terminations in Devon- 
 shire are found to lie in large groups rather than scattered throughout 
 the country. Thus, cote (Nethercote, Tunicote, Holnicote) occurs in 
 great number, and almost exclusively, in North Devon, N. and S. of 
 Barnstaple, and may possibly indicate that the district was thickly 
 wooded — the 44 cotes ” being outlying hamlets. Hayne and hayes are 
 terminations ranging over East Devon from the border as far as Exeter, 
 and hardly extending beyond. (See Rte. 3 for some further remarks : 
 both signify “ hedges,” 44 enclosures.”) Worthy , a form almost peculiar 
 to Devonshire (it occurs, but very rarely, in Hampshire and Somer- 
 setshire) — signifying a farm or homestead — appears for the most part as 
 ivorth elsewhere in England. In Devonshire it is found prevailing 
 largely over the whole northern district, from the sea to Dartmoor, on 
 the borders of which it also abounds; but it is almost unknown in 
 East Devon or in the South Hams. The curious termination nymet 
 (from nyman = to take, appropriate), found only in a district of North 
 
xli History . IfitrOcL 
 
 Devon between Crediton and Barnstaple, is, like “ worthy,” almost 
 confined to this county. (See Rte. 6.) 
 
 The long continuance of the British kingdom of Damnonia, and the 
 gradual mingling of Wealhas and English settlers, led to the preserva- 
 tion of much Celtic lore and tradition which was at last assimilated 
 by the incoming and conquering race. Much romance worked into the 
 Arthuric cycle, and much connected with Arthur himself, is probably 
 to be traced to these circumstances ; but the retention in so-called 
 English history of the famous legend of Brutus of Troy, and of his 
 landing at Totnes, is more certainly due to them. (See Rte. 7.) It 
 was from the port of Totnes (Dartmouth) that the passage was anciently 
 made to Armorica, with which country the Britons of Damnonia must 
 have had close intercourse. Hence, probably, Totnes was made the scene 
 of the landing. From Devonshire, when Britons and Englishmen had 
 been welded into one people, the legend spread, and was adopted by 
 chroniclers as part of the true history of Britain; and just as the 
 Roman St. Alban is constantly called “protomartyr Anglorum ,” so 
 the later Plantagenets were held to represent King Arthur and his 
 ancestor Brutus, and to have succeeded to the rule which they had 
 established over all the nations within the isle of Britain. 
 
 § Y. The ecclesiastical history of the two western counties is de- 
 pendent on the political. Damnonia had its British bishops and its 
 British priesthood ; following, of course, the customs and traditions of the 
 British church elsewhere. In 705, Aldhelm, bishop of Sherborne, wrote 
 his letter to Geraint, king of Damnonia, an,d persuaded the Britons 
 subject to Wessex to adopt the Roman Easter. (Bede, 4 H. E/ v. 18.) 
 The schism between the two churches was thus healed in so far as Devon- 
 shire was concerned ; but the Cornish — or those inhabitants of Damnonia 
 who were not then subject to Wessex— still maintained their ancient 
 ecclesiastical traditions or “ errors.” Before Aldhelm wrote it would seem 
 that the English church had established an outpost at Exeter ; since 
 about the year 700 Winfred of Crediton (afterwards St. Boniface) was 
 sent as a lad from his father’s house to a monastery in that city. Gra- 
 dually, as the English conquest extended, the British church became 
 subject ecclesiastically to the English church and king. This was 
 certainly the case after the victories of Egbert (a.d. 813, 823, 835) ; 
 but it was not until the year 909 — when we must suppose that Devon- 
 shire had become well “ anglicised ” (it seems to have been included, 
 since 884, in the diocese of Sherborne)— that an English see was 
 erected for Devonshire (and three parishes in Cornwall), the place of 
 which was fixed at Crediton. The Cornish (British) see still remained ; 
 but the limits of its jurisdiction were of course greatly narrowed, and 
 the British bishop in 931 was a recognized suffragan of Canterbury. 
 By this time, therefore, the Cornish Church had accepted the Roman 
 Easter. In 950 the first English bishop of Cornwall was appointed. 
 The Cornish see — the place of which seems to have been indifferently 
 at St. Germans or Bodmin — became afterwards (circ 1026-1043) 
 merged in that of Crediton ; and in 1050 the united see was transferred 
 
Introd. History » xiii 
 
 from Oediton to Exeter, where it has since remained. (The authori- 
 ties for the early ecclesiastical history of Devonshire and Cornwall will 
 be found in Pedler's ‘Anglo-Saxon Episcopate of Cornwall,’ and in 
 Haddan and Stubbs' ‘ Councils and Ecclesiastical Documents,’ vol. i.) 
 
 § VI. The last relics of the independence of the Damnonian kingdom 
 disappeared, it would seem, after Athelstane’s visits to West Wales in 
 926 and 928 ; in the former of which years Howel, “ king of the West 
 Wealha,” made his submission, and in the latter, after driving the 
 Britons from Exeter, Athelstan, like the Norman conqueror after him, 
 passed westward to the extremity of Cornwall. The continued inde- 
 pendence of Cornwall, after Devonshire had become an integral part 
 of Wessex, is perhaps marked by its name — the country of the “ Corn- 
 wealhas” = the Welshmen of the “ horn,” or projecting land. The 
 British kingdom in its earlier day had been more powerful, and perhaps 
 more civilized, than the Damnonia of Roman days. Exeter (see Bte. 
 1) was the only important Boman town in Devonshire or Cornwall. 
 There were small stations at Totnes (ad Durium) and at King’s Tamer- 
 ton (Tamare), and Ptolemy gives the names of two other towns, 
 “Yoliba” and. “ Uxela,” as belonging to the Damnonii, but their sites 
 have not been ascertained with certainty. At Exeter alone Boman 
 relics have been found. The only Boman villas as yet discovered were 
 on or near the Icenhilde Way, at Uplyme (Bte. 9), and near Seaton 
 (Bte. 4) — both on the extreme border of Devonshire. The Roman 
 roads which ran through the district were certainly not works of the 
 first importance, and were perhaps of British origin. It is possible that 
 this western corner of Britain, with its deep valleys, wild hills, and 
 tangled woods, had remained in a comparative state of independence 
 even under the Roman rule. 
 
 § VII. The western counties remained undisturbed for some time 
 after the landing of the Norman conqueror and the battle of Hastings. 
 Gytha, the mother of Harold, and many Englishmen of note and name, 
 took refuge at Exeter ; and it was not until the spring of 1068 — more 
 than twelve months after Hastings, that William appeared before the 
 walls of the great western city, and compelled it to surrender (see 
 Exeter, Bte. 1. The story is told at length in Freeman's ‘ Norman 
 Conquest,’ vol. iv.). The Norman and his “host” then passed west- 
 ward into Cornwall. The two counties were effectually subdued, and 
 the forfeited lands were distributed — probably in most eases to such 
 Normans or followers of the Norman as had been actually present in 
 this western campaign. Robert of Mortain, the Conquerors half- 
 brother, received nearly the whole county of Cornwall ; and thus arose 
 “ that great earldom and duchy of Cornwall, which was deemed too 
 powerful to be trusted in the hands of any but men closely akin to 
 the royal house, and the remains of which have for ages formed the 
 appanage of the heir-apparent to the crown.” (Freeman, iv. p. 170.) 
 Other great western landholders were the king himself, Geoffrey, bishop 
 of Coutances, Ralph of Pomeroy — whose descendants, with a fortune 
 far different from that of most Norman houses, retained their principal 
 
xiv History . Introd. 
 
 castle of Berry until the 16th century (see Rte. 7), — and Judhael of 
 Totnes (Rte. 7), who was partly of Breton descent. In Devonshire 
 many smaller English thanes and proprietors retained their lands. In 
 Cornwall the dispossession of the former landowners was complete. 
 And it is remarkable that the landowners of Cornwall in the days of 
 the Confessor seem to have been wholly English : no British names 
 appear in Domesday as those of holders of land. “ The natural infe- 
 rence seems to be that Cornwall before the Norman conquest was in 
 much the same state as England after it. The land must have been 
 mainly in the hands either of Englishmen or of anglicized Britons.” 
 ( Freeman , iv. p. 172.) 
 
 [The great proprietors who became most conspicuous in Devonshire 
 in later times established themselves in the county some time after the 
 Norman conquest. Such are the Courtenays (see Rte. 7, Powderham ; 
 the Mohuns and Carews (Rte. 3, Mohun’s Ottery) ; the Champer- 
 nownes (Rte. 15, Modbury), and others.] 
 
 Besides the description of Devon and Cornwall contained in the 
 ‘ Great ’ or ‘ Exchequer ’ Domesday Book, the so-called * Exon Domes- 
 day,’ of which the MS. is preserved among the cathedral archives at 
 Exeter, comprises a record of the five western counties, — Wilts, Dorset, 
 Somerset, Devon, and Cornwall. The entries in the Exon Domesday 
 are fuller than those in the Great Book itself. They give the number 
 of live stock on each estate, — oxen, sheep, goats, horses, and pigs ; and 
 the book is supposed to contain an exact transcript of the original rolls 
 or returns made by the Conqueror’s commissioners at the time, from 
 which rolls the Great Domesday itself was compiled. Instead of the 
 T. R. E. (tempore regis Edwardi) of the Great Domesday, the Exon 
 Domesday uses the phrase “ ea die quit Rex Edwardus fuit vivus et 
 mortuus ” — indicating the day of the Confessor’s death. 
 
 § VIII. The siege of Exeter Castle by Stephen (Rte. 1), and the 
 disafforesting, in the reign of John, of all parts of Devonshire 
 with the exception of Dartmoor and Exmoor (see Rte. 13) were 
 no doubt important facts in the history of the county. But local 
 events in either Devonshire or Cornwall are not greatly connected 
 with general history until the period of the Wars of the Roses ; and 
 even then, although Exeter was besieged for some days (Rte. 1), and 
 the great leaders on either side frequently landed on the Devonshire 
 coast or escaped thence, the skirmishes which took place here were 
 rather owing to local jealousies, and to disagreements between the 
 Lancastrian Lord Bonville and the Yorkist Courtenays, than to any 
 strong general feeling in favour of the white rose or the red. (For a 
 curious story of this time, see Vpcott , Rte. 2.) The rising against 
 Richard III., for which Sir Thomas St. Leger suffered at Exeter (see 
 Rte. 1 — Exeter Castle ), was at first organised in support of the young 
 prince, Edward V. ; and it was only on the proclamation of his death 
 that the leaders transferred their allegiance to Henry of Lancaster. 
 The exactions of Henry VII. caused the great Cornish outbreak of 
 1497, when Michael Joseph and the lawyer Flammock led a body 
 
Introd. 
 
 History . xv 
 
 of 16,000 men out of the western counties, were joined at Wells by- 
 Lord Audley, whom they made their leader, and marched to Black- 
 heath, where they were defeated. (For the story of a relic left by 
 Joseph on his way through Devonshire, see E or wood , Rte. 17.) The 
 Cornish were armed mostly with brown bills and with bows and 
 arrows. Their arrows were “ the length of a tailor’s yard — so strong 
 and mighty a bow,” says Lord Bacon, “ were they said to draw.” 
 This rising, although no doubfTa result of immediate discontent, was 
 possibly, as Hallam suggests, “ a good deal connected with the opinion 
 of Henry’s usurpation and the claims of a pretender.” (Const. Hist. I. 
 chap, i.) At any rate the discontent and disaffection brought about 
 by the exactions of Henry led the Cornish to flock readily to the 
 standard of Perkin Warbeck, when in the autumn of the same year 
 (1497) he landed at Whitsand Bay, near the Land’s End, set up bis 
 standard at Bodmin, and thence advanced to the siege of Exeter 
 (Rte. 1). The western counties were again in a flame in 1549, 
 when the religious changes led to what was known as the “ Com- 
 motion,” the great feature of which was another siege of Exeter. (See 
 Sampford Courtenay , Rte. 6 ; Crediton , Rte. 17 ; Feniton , Rte. 3 ; 
 and Clyst Heath , Rte. 5.) 
 
 § IX. These west country risings, and the causes which produced 
 them, differ in a very marked manner from the revolts and disturb- 
 ances which occurred from time to time in other parts of England, 
 Devonshire and Cornwall were little, if at all, affected by the dis- 
 contents and tumults of what is generally known as “Wat Tyler’s 
 rebellion.” At this time (a.d. 1381), the eastern and some of the 
 southern counties were for a time disorganised. The eastern counties, 
 especially, were full of woollen manufacturers dissatisfied with their 
 condition, and ready to break at once into violence. No such element 
 as yet existed in the west, and for whatever reasons, the “ country 
 folk” — the Jack Millers and Jack Straws of Devonshire — were not 
 disposed to act in concert with those of Kent or Essex. Strong, 
 vigorous, and independent, much isolated by geographical position, 
 and certainly not uninfluenced by their mixture of race, the western 
 men cared little for any grievances but those which they experienced 
 themselves. The rising of 1549, contemporary as it was with “ Ketts* 
 rebellion ” in Norfolk, was, nevertheless, produced by very different 
 causes. In Devonshire and Cornwall the commons rose in defence of 
 the “ old religion,” — or, as it should rather be said, in absolute dislike 
 of all change and novelty— a dislike which is still characteristic of the 
 true Damnonian. The Norfolk rebellion was due to the extensive 
 enclosing of common lands. Little or nothing was there said of reli- 
 gious changes, and in Devonshire nothing was heard of common lands. 
 
 § X. The age of Elizabeth is the golden age of Devonshire. It was 
 not certainly from any infusion of Celtic blood that the western adven- 
 turers acquired their mastery of the sea, or the energy and daring with 
 which they sought out new lands, and planted them. True Celts 
 have never cared much for the sea. But the extensive sea-board was 
 
xV i History . Intro d. 
 
 favourable to the development of a hardy, nautical race ; and in the 
 Drakes, Raleighs, and Hawkinses, who so long kept the Devonshire 
 harbours astir, there is to be traced precisely the same spirit of 
 adventure which animated their Teutonic ancestors who first settled in 
 the west, or which was still more strikingly displayed by the northern 
 Vikings and sea-rovers. The great Devonshire seamen of Elizabeth’s 
 reign were, for the most part, sons of the smaller landowners whose 
 manor-houses were near the coast. Such were the Hawkinses ; and 
 such were the half-brothers, Sir Walter Raleigh and Sir Humphrey 
 Gilbert — sons, by her successive marriage, of the same mother — 
 Margaret Champernowne. The history of Devonshire at this time — • 
 at least the most active life which was stirring in the country — is 
 bound up with the story of her harbours and sea-side towns, and is 
 in close connection with the general history of England. Sir John 
 Hawkins, whose homes were at Plymouth (Rte. 7), and at Slapton, 
 near Dartmouth (Rte. 10), is brought conspicuously before us in the 
 later volumes of Mr. Froude’s ‘ Elizabeth.’ Raleigh throughout his 
 life maintained his connection with Devonshire, and spoke always, says 
 the gossiping Aubrey, with a strong Devonshire accent. Elizabeth, 
 says Fuller (‘ Worthies’), was wont to say of the Devonshire gentry, 
 that “ they were all born courtiers with a becoming confidence.” It is 
 only necessary to refer to the historical sketch of Plymouth (Rte. 7) 
 for proof of the activity which prevailed in the west throughout the 
 latter half of the 16th century. 
 
 § XI. The history of Devonshire and Cornwall during the civil war 
 is much involved, and is greatly in need of ‘careful local investigation. 
 Here it is only necessary to say that the towns (and especially Ply- 
 mouth — the long siege of which is noticeable ; see Rte. 7) were for 
 the most part strongly Parliamentarian, whilst the county generally, 
 led by the gentry, was on the side of the king. At different periods of 
 the war nearly all the great leaders on either side found their way to 
 the west. The king and Prince Charles reviewed Rupert’s army at 
 Crediton (Rte. 17), and passed westward to Plymouth and into Corn- 
 wall. The queen made Exeter her head-quarters for some time, gave 
 birth there to the Princess Henrietta, and escaped thence to Laun- 
 ceston (Rte. 7). General Ruthin, the governor of Plymouth, followed 
 Sir Ralph Hopton into Cornwall and was defeated by him upon Brad- 
 dock Down (Rte. 23), as a result of which battle a treaty of peace was 
 concluded between the counties of Devon and Cornwall, which did not, 
 however, long remain unbroken. Prince Rupert lay for some time 
 before Plymouth ; and Fairfax and Cromwell, coming at last into the 
 west, shattered the last relics of King Charles’s influence there. (For 
 the journal of Fairfax’s proceedings in Devonshire see Sprigge’s ‘ Anglia 
 Rediviva.’ Joshua Sprigge was a chaplain attached to the army.) 
 The various skirmishes which took place in Devon are noted in their 
 proper routes. None were of great importance ; but Cornwall was the 
 scene of two battles which were, at least for the time, heavy blows and 
 discouragements to the Puritans. That of Braddock Down ( J anuary 
 
Introd. 
 
 rvii 
 
 History . 
 
 19, 1642-3) has already been mentioned. The other (May 15, 1643) 
 was at Stratton (Rte. 25), almost on the border of the two counties. 
 The bravery and loyalty of the Cornishmen are indeed constantly 
 dwelt on by Clarendon ; and the king himself was so sensible of the 
 many proofs of attachment to his cause which the county had dis- 
 played, that he wrote the following letter, still to be seen in many 
 Cornish churches. It is for the most part painted in black letter on a 
 square board, framed, and hung against the wall. 
 
 “ C. R. 
 
 “ To the Inhabitants of the County of Cornwall. 
 
 “ We are so highly sensible of the merits of our County of Cornwall, of their 
 zeal for the defence of our person and the just rights of our Crown, in a time 
 when we could contribute so little to our own defence, or to their assistance ; 
 in a time when not only no reward appeared, but great and probable dangers 
 were threatened to obedience and loyalty ; of their great and eminent courage 
 and patience in their indefatigable prosecution of their great work against so 
 potent an enemy, backed with so strong, rich, and populous cities, and so plenti- 
 fully furnished and [supplied with men, arms, money, ammunition, and provi- 
 sion of all kinds ; and of the wonderful success with which it pleased Almighty 
 God (though with the loss of some most eminent persons, who shall never be 
 forgotten by us), to reward their loyalty and patience by many strange victories 
 over their and our enemies, in despight of all human probability and all ima- 
 ginable disadvantages ; that as we cannot be forgetful of so great desert, so we 
 cannot but desire to publish it to all the world, and perpetuate to all time the 
 memory of their merits, and of our acceptance of the same ; and to that end we 
 do hereby render our royal thanks to that our County in the most public and 
 lasting manner we can devise, commanding copies hereof to be printed and 
 published, and one of them to be read in every church and chapel therein, and 
 to be kept for ever as a record in the same ; that as long as the history of 
 these times and of this nation shall continue, the memory of how much that 
 County hath merited from us and our crown, may be derived with it to poste- 
 rity. Given at our camp at Sudeley Castle, the 10th of September, 1643.” 
 
 {Some of the most distinguished Cornish Royalists are enumerated in 
 the distich— 
 
 “ The four wheels of Charles’s wain, 
 
 Grenville, Godolphin, Trevanion, Slanning, slain.” 
 
 Sir Beville Grenville was one of the most loyal and distinguished of a 
 distinguished race — the Grenvilles of Bideford, and of Stow in the 
 Cornish parish of Kilkhampton (Rte. 25). Like the other wheels of 
 the wain he fell early in the contest, and is one of those “ eminent 
 persons ” to the loss of whom the king refers in his letter. At a later 
 period many bodies of “club-men” were organized in Devonshire, 
 nominally for the protection of the county against the marauders of 
 either side. Prince Charles spent a great part of the autumn and 
 winter of 1645 in Cornwall, principally at Launceston and Truro. On 
 the 2nd of March, 1645-6 he embarked at Pendennis Castle for the 
 Scilly Islands, where he “ was much straitened for provisions.” He 
 left Scilly April 16th and landed the next day in Jersey, whence he 
 
xviii Antiquities . Introd. 
 
 sailed for France. The queen had left Pendennis for France in July, 
 1644. 
 
 § XII. The landing of William of Orange at Brixham (November 5, 
 1688) is perhaps the event most fraught with important results which 
 has ever taken place in the western counties. All the history of this 
 period will of course be read in the pages of Lord Macaulay ; but the 
 fact that the great landowners of Devonshire were slow to join the 
 prince deserves mention here. It was not until after he reached 
 Exeter that a Mr. Burrington, then living at Hollacombe, near 
 Crediton, appeared as the first of his Devonshire adherents. The 
 county, in fact, with its old dislike of change, long remained, if not 
 actively Jacobite, yet very far from what Horace Walpole calls 
 “ George-a-bite.” Wolfe, the hero of Quebec, who was stationed at 
 Exeter in 1754, writes in the December of that year, that “although 
 the female branches of the Tory families came, not one man would 
 accept an invitation to the ball which celebrated the king’s birthday.” 
 
 § XIII. It is unnecessary to dwell on the later history of the west. 
 The development of its great harbours, and especially of Plymouth, 
 where the dockyard was established in the reign of William III., only 
 raised to higher importance and efficiency the advantages of sea-board 
 which had from the first brought prosperity to Devonshire. In Corn- 
 wall the working of the copper mines, begun about the year 1700, 
 has been developed to an enormous extent ; and, together with the 
 increased attention paid to other and more ancient mining operations, 
 — such as the mines of tin and silver-lead — has, to a great extent, 
 changed the character, and has wonderfully increased the resources, 
 of the county. (See Mines , infra.) 
 
 Antiquities. 
 
 § XIY. Primaeval Period. — No part of England is richer in pri- 
 maeval antiquities than Devonshire and Cornwall. The high land of 
 Dartmoor, and the remote district between Penzance and the Land’s 
 End, contain examples of the cromlech, the stone circle, and the primi- 
 tive hut, which may compete with any in Wales, and which are only 
 exceeded in size and importance by those in Brittany or in. Ireland. 
 
 The origin and history of these remains are altogether uncertain. 
 Ethnologists are at present inclined to believe that three distinct waves 
 of migration passed over Europe, including the British Islands, before 
 the arrival of the earliest Teutonic settlers ; — the first, Turanian, of 
 which the Finnic races in Northern Europe are surviving representa- 
 tives ; the second, Gaelic ; and the third, Cymric, represented by the 
 Cornish, the Welsh, and the Bretons. Competent archaeologists are 
 strongly disposed to assign many of these stone relics to the first 
 or Turanian period; but this is as yet mere speculation. Nothing 
 has hitherto been discovered in connection with them which enables 
 us to give them, with certainty, to either of these periods. Mr. 
 Fergusson (‘ Rude Stone Monuments ’ ; London, 1872) wishes to regard 
 
Introd. Antiquities. xix 
 
 them as for the most part belonging to the historical era, and many of 
 them to a comparatively recent time. It must suffice to refer to this 
 book as a storehouse of information on the subject ; but although it 
 seems probable that the erection of rude stone monuments may have 
 been continued in some regions (and especially in Northern Europe) to 
 a time far within the historical era, we have no data from which we 
 can assign any period to their first introduction. They have been 
 found to exist, not only in the British Islands and in other parts of 
 Europe, but in North Africa (Algeria and Tripoli), Western Asia, and 
 India. Much, however, has yet to be learned concerning them ; and 
 a careful reading of Mr. Fergusson’s book will probably lead to the 
 conclusion that we are as yet hardly in a position to form any decided 
 judgment with respect to their age or history. Two of Mr. Fer- 
 gusson’s propositions are accepted by all competent antiquaries — (1) 
 that the rude stone monuments are generally sepulchral, or connected 
 directly or indirectly with the rites of the dead ; and (2) that they are 
 not temples in any usual or appropriate sense of the term. His third 
 (3) that they were generally erected by partially civilised races after 
 they had come in contact with the Bomans, and that most of them 
 may be considered as belonging to the first ten centuries of the 
 Christian era, must be regarded as “ adhuc sub judice,” and is cer- 
 tainly not supported by the conclusions of nearly all antiquaries, 
 here or on the continent. However this may be, the tourist should 
 be especially warned against all such theories as connect the crom- 
 lechs and stone circles with Druidism, and its supposed rites. The 
 rites and the “ Druidism 99 are in most cases as shadowy and unreal 
 as the theories which have been founded on them ; and it will be well 
 to remember that a thorough examination of the remains themselves, 
 and a careful comparison of them with similar relics existing in other 
 parts of the world, are the only means by which we can hope to arrive 
 at any certain knowledge of their origin. 
 
 § XV. The remains may be thus classified: — 1. Cromlechs or 
 “ dolmens.” The latter is the term used by Mr. Fergusson, and by 
 continental antiquaries. 2. Stone circles, generally called “ sacred ” 
 circles. 3. Upright stones disposed in avenues. 4. The single stone, 
 “ maen hir,” or “ long stone.” 5. Kistvaens, or “ stone chests.” 6. 
 Tolmens, or “holed stones.” 7. Logans, or “rocking stones.” 8. 
 Bock basins. 9. Huts and pounds, or “ walled villages.” 10. Caves. 
 11. Bridges. 12. Cliff castles. 13. Hill castles and camps. 14. 
 Boundary lines. Of these various classes it may be said at once that 
 some (logans and rock basins) are more probably natural than arti- 
 ficial; and that there is no reason why others (pounds or villages, 
 castles and camps) should not be, as they almost certainly are in some 
 cases, of much later date than the great monuments of unwrought 
 stone, such as cromlechs and circles. 
 
 1. Cromlechs. — These, which consist of a large cap or covering 
 stone raised on three or more supporters, seem to be, in all cases, 
 sepulchral monuments. The name cromlech (crom, bowed or bending ; 
 
JntrocL 
 
 xx Antiquities . 
 
 lech , a stone) does not seem to have been in use before the end of the 
 16th century ; and it is even doubtful whether it is not of much later 
 introduction. In Cornwall, cromlechs are called “ quoits.” (The name 
 dolmen , from daul (Breton), a table, and maen , a stone, is equally 
 modern, but although more truly applicable than “ cromlech,” it has 
 not been generally adopted in this country.) They may be classed as : 
 1. Three pillared cromlechs ; such are the Spinsters Rock at Drews- 
 teignton (Rte. 8), if not the solitary, certainly the finest, example of 
 a cromlech in Devonshire ; and in Cornwall , Pendarves or Carwinnen 
 Quoit (Rte. 27), and Lanyon Quoit (Rte. 29, Exc. 3). 2. Four pil- 
 
 lared cromlechs ; such as Chun Quoit (Rte. 29, Exc. 3) and Mulfra 
 Quoit (Id. id.) in Cornivall. 3. Many pillared cromlechs, of which 
 Trevethy Stone (Rte. 23) and Zennor Quoit (Rte. 29, Exc. 3) are the 
 Cornish examples. The latter is the finest in Cornwall, and is pos- 
 sibly the largest cromlech in the British Islands. And 4, Chamber 
 Cromlechs, of which the western counties afford no specimen. These 
 should, perhaps, be more properly called chambered tumuli. The 
 most famous of this class are at New Grange, in Ireland, and at Gavr 
 lnnis, in Brittany. 
 
 A valuable map contained in Mr. ^Fergusson’s ‘ Rude Stone Monu- 
 ments,’ illustrates the distribution throughout the world (so far as is 
 yet known) of these cromlechs or dolmens. They are most frequent 
 in what is now France, extending from the coast of the Mediterranean 
 in a north-westerly direction, until they occur in the greatest numbers 
 in the Morbihan and Finisterre. There are none in the district be- 
 tween the Garonne and the Pyrenees. They are found along the 
 northern coast of Spain, in some parts of Portugal, in Grenada, and 
 in the northern provinces of Africa. In England they are rare except 
 in Cornwall, in the western part of which they abound. There are 
 many in Wales and Anglesea, and in Ireland. In Scotland they are 
 not numerous. They are found along the coast of the North Sea, and 
 along the Baltic, in Mecklenburg and Pomerania. In Denmark they 
 are chiefly found on the east side of Jutland, and in Seeland ; and 
 they occur in the southern districts of Sweden. With the exception 
 of the great band which sweeps across France, it will be seen that the 
 cromlechs are almost entirely confined to the sea coasts, and to the 
 districts bordering on them. In the East this is less noticeable. 
 Cromlechs have been found in Circassia, in Syria, and over a consider- 
 able extent of Western India. 
 
 It has often been asserted that all monuments of this class, at least 
 in Europe, were originally hidden within earthen tumuli, or great 
 cairns of stones. This is no doubt true of some. In Borlase’s time 
 great part of the covering cairn remained about Zennor Quoit ; and a 
 second small cromlech near Lanyon (Rte. 29, Exc. 3) was only dis- 
 interred from its cairn in 1790. But it is impossible to suppose that 
 such cromlechs as those at Drewsteignton or at Pendarves — where the 
 support of the cap stone on its three pillars is an evident tour-de- force 
 —were ever so buried. They were intended to be seen and wondered 
 
Introd. 
 
 Antiquities . xxi 
 
 at ; and may, perhaps, be in the nature of cenotaphs, commemorating 
 some chief or hero who fell in fight either on the spot or at a distance 
 from his own country. At any rate no traces of interment were found 
 under or near the Drewsteignton Cromlech when the ground , was 
 recently examined (see Rte. 8). 
 
 Many of these cromlechs were probably disinterred in very early 
 times, in the hope of discovering treasure. For these, and for other 
 reasons, it would be dangerous (in most cases) to assume that the 
 date of the latest coin or other object discovered in it, marks that of 
 the monument itself. An account of the sepulchral arrangements 
 discovered within the remarkable chamber cromlechs in Guernsey, 
 first opened in 1837 by Mr. Lukis, will be found in the first volume 
 of the Journal of the Archaeological Institute. If the contents there 
 discovered may be accepted as sufficient evidence, these cromlechs 
 belonged to the so-called “ stone ” period, and are therefore of extreme 
 antiquity. 
 
 2. Sacred Circles .— These consist of upright blocks of stone, ranged 
 at intervals in a circular form, which in most instances are certainly 
 sepulchral, since deposits have been found in them. “ In France they 
 are hardly known, though in Algeria they are very frequent. In 
 Denmark and Sweden they are both numerous and important ; but it 
 is in the British Islands that circles attained their greatest develop- 
 ment.” — Fergusson. The great example in England of this class is 
 Stonehenge. Abury was still vaster; and the circle of Stennis in 
 Orkney is larger than any on the continent. In Devonshire there are, 
 on Dartmoor, Scorhill Circle (Rte. 8), the Grey Wethers, (Rte. 8), 
 Fernworthy Circle (Rte. 8), and circles at Merrivale Bridge (Rte. 13). 
 In Cornwall are the Hurlers (Rte. 23), the Boskednan Circle (Rte, 
 29, Exc. 3), the Nine Maidens at Boscawen-un (Rte. 29, Exc. 5), Fre- 
 geseal Circle (Rte. 29, Exc. 4), and the Dawns Men, or Merry Maidens 
 (Rte. 29, Exc. 6). The Cornish and Devonshire circles are all of 
 comparatively small dimensions. (The larger class of circles gene- 
 rally measure about 100 metres = 300 ft. in diameter ; the smaller 
 about 100 feet.) It would seem that there are no circles in Wales or 
 in Anglesea. 
 
 The number of stones in all these circles varies. 
 
 3. Alignments , or upright stones disposed in avenues. — Of all the 
 rude stone remains, these are the most mysterious and the least under- 
 stood. They are formed by two, three, or more parallel rows of 
 stones, for the most part running in straight lines, but sometimes 
 winding. The most remarkable example, probably in the world, is 
 the great avenue at Carnac, near Quiberon Bay, in Brittany, where 
 eight and more parallel rows of stones, some of them twenty feet high, 
 wind over the heaths for a length of some miles. (The remains at 
 Carnac have been well described and illustrated by Mr. Deane in the 
 twenty-fifth volume of the * Archseologia,’ and a plan will be found in 
 Fergusson’s ‘Rude Stone Monuments.’) But neither in Brittany, nor 
 on Dartmoor, where similar remains on a much smaller scale abound, 
 
Introd. 
 
 xxii Antiquities . 
 
 is there any tradition as to their origin or probable use. They have 
 frequently been called “ serpent temples,” and have been regarded as 
 relics of an ancient Ophite worship ; but this, it need hardly now 
 be said, is the merest speculation, and is not even supported by the 
 form of the remains themselves, which are rarely sinuous, like a snake. 
 On Dartmoor they are invariably straight, and are found in direct 
 connection with earns, and circles which are probably sepulchral. The 
 most striking examples are near Kestor Rock (Rte. 8), on Challa- 
 combe Down (Rte. 8), under Black Tor (Rte. 8), and the finest and 
 most perfect of all at Merrivale Bridge, under Mis Tor (Rte. 13). 
 The Challacombe Down Avenue consists of a triple line of stones ; and 
 on Coryton Ball are seven or eight parallel rows, extending for 100 
 yards (Rte. 7). No very perfect example remains in Cornwall ; but 
 some fragments of avenues may be found on the downs near Kilmarth 
 (Rte. 23). 
 
 It is worth notice that at Merrivale Bridge the southern avenue is 
 terminated by two larger stones, now fallen, and that there are two 
 other stones still standing, at a little distance, but nearly in a line 
 with the avenue. The avenues near Kestor (Rte. 8) ended with three 
 stones, called the “ three boys.” At the head of the lines of St. Barbe 
 (part of the Carnac alignments) is a group of stones, two of which are 
 the largest and finest blocks in the neighbourhood ; and in front of the 
 line of great stones which formerly existed near Kits Coity-house — 
 the famous Kentish cromlech — are two fallen obelisks, called by the 
 country people the “ coffin stones.” The similarity seems to indicate 
 that all these alignments were erected on some recognized principle. 
 
 The chief avenues on Dartmoor closely adjoin, and are no doubt in 
 immediate connection with large and important settlements. The 
 common round Kestor is covered with hut circles and lines of enclo- 
 sure. At Merrivale Bridge hut circles are numerous ; and it is very 
 rarely indeed (if at all) that an avenue occurs alone. This fact renders 
 it difficult to accept Mr. Fergusson’s theory, that such alignments 
 mark battle-fields, and that the stones indicate either the position of 
 the opposing “hosts,” or the burial-places of those who fell in the 
 fight. This he believes to have been the object of the Carnac stone- 
 rows, of the avenues which formerly existed at Avebury and Shap, 
 and of the mysterious “Sarsen stones,” at Ashdown, in Berkshire. 
 (Of these a plan will be found in the ‘Rude Stone Monuments.’) 
 If such was the meaning of the Dartmoor avenues, we must believe 
 that one fight occurred near each settlement, and one only. That the 
 remains are connected with sepulchral rites is highly probable ; but 
 the circumstances under which they are found seem to indicate that 
 they belonged to the permanent burial-place of the settlement, rather 
 than to the graves of fighting men, buried where they fell. 
 
 At Callernish, in the isle of Lewis, is an avenue of cruciform shape, 
 attached to a circle 60 ft. in diameter (see Wilson’s ‘ Prehistoric Annals 
 of Scotland ’). In this, and in similar cases, the avenues certainly 
 represented the gallery of approach found in such chambered tumuli 
 
Introd. 
 
 Antiquities . xxiii 
 
 as New Grange ; and the longer avenues of Dartmoor may have been 
 later developments of a similar kind. “ Avenues are also found in 
 other countries ; one is said to be near Hit, on the Euphrates, leading 
 to a circle of upright slabs; and in India, besides many ortholithic 
 remains in various places, are avenues at the village of Mushmaie, 
 near Chirra Poonjee, and others leading to the latter place, on the 
 Cossyah, or Kasia Hills.” — Sir Gardner Wilkinson . 
 
 4. The Single Upright Stone. — These are almost certainly sepulchral. 
 Many examples occur on Dartmoor and in Cornwall, which need not 
 here be enumerated. 
 
 5. “ Kistvaens” or Stone Chests. — These generally contained the 
 body, unburnt : but when of smaller size, they held the burnt bones. 
 The best examples on Dartmoor are at the end of the stone avenue near 
 Kestor Rock (Rte. 8), and one on Cawsand Hill. One kistvaen (and 
 that a fine example) remains in Cornwall, in Samson, one of the Scilly 
 Isles (Rte. 29, Exc. 7). 
 
 6. Tolmens, or “ Holed Stones — The original intention of these is 
 quite unknown. Many superstitions have become connected with 
 them. In Orkney there was a famous perforated stone adjoining the 
 great circle of Stennis, to which a belief was attached which has been 
 commemorated by Sir Walter Scott in the ‘Pirate.’ The stone is now 
 destroyed. No true tolmen has been found in Devonshire ; for the- 
 so-called “ tolmen ” in the bed of the Teign (Rte. 8), near Scorhill 
 circle, is a “ rock basin,” formed and pierced through by the action of 
 the river. In Cornwall the best example is the “ Crick Stone,” near 
 Lanyon (Rte. 29, Exc. 3). The tolmen at Constantine, near Truro 
 (Rte. 28), was not really a pierced stone, although superstitions of 
 the same class were connected with it. The quoit, or covering block, 
 of the great cromlech at Trevethy (Rte. 23), is pierced by a circular 
 hole, which also has its folk-lore. (See the description of this cromlech 
 for some references to other “ holed ” cromlechs in various parts of the 
 world.) 
 
 7. Logans , or Rocking-stones. — “ Logan ” is the Welsh “ Llogi,” to 
 shake; and “to logg” is still used in the sense of “to rock” in some 
 parts of r Devon and Cornwall. That by far the greater part of these 
 stones rock from natural causes, is more than probable. It has been 
 suggested that they were used by the Druids as a kind of ordeal ; but 
 this, it need hardly be said, is entirely unsupported by proof. Logan- 
 stones exist in all parts of the world. Pliny describes one at Harpasa 
 in Asia, that could be moved with the finger. “ Cautes stat horrenda, 
 uno digito mobilis.” — Hist. Nat . ii. 96. The most important example 
 in Devonshire is the “ Rugglestone ” at Widdecombe (Rte. 12) ; there 
 are others on Rippon Tor (the Nutcrackers ) Rte. 8 ; and in the bed of 
 the Teign, Rte. 8. In Cornwall there is the famous Logan rock at 
 Treryn Dinas, near the Land’s End (Rte. 29, Exc. 5). 
 
 8. Rock i?asms.-— These are found on the summits of nearly every 
 tor on Dartmoor ; and there is scarcely an instance in which it is not at 
 once evident that they have been produced by the natural disintegra- 
 
XXIV 
 
 Introd. 
 
 tion of the granite. Rock basins have been found, however, in some 
 parts of the world which are as clearly artificial. On the capstones of 
 the great cromlechs in Northern Africa are some large square basins 
 (the largest 3 ft. square), with shallow troughs leading from one to 
 another, not so deep as the basins, and 4 in. broad (Sir J . G. Wilkin- 
 son ). It need hardly be said that these basins may be of much later 
 date than the cromlechs themselves. On Dartmoor the rock basins are 
 irregularly shaped, but generally approach to a circle. A valuable 
 paper on the Rock Basins of Dartmoor, by Mr. G. W. Ormerod, will 
 be found in the ‘ Journal of the Geological Soc.,’ vol. xv. (1859). 
 
 9. Huts; and Pounds or Walled Villages. — Of these a sufficient 
 description will be found in the routes where the most important ex- 
 amples are noticed. These are : in Devonshire , at Kestor Bock (Rte. 
 8) ; at Grimspound (Rte. 8), the best example of a walled village ; 
 and at Merrivale Bridge (Rte. 13). There are, however, many very 
 interesting remains of this class scattered over Dartmoor, and noticed 
 in various routes. In Cornwall , the most perfect specimen of a beehiye- 
 hut which has hitherto been found is at Bosphrennis , near Mulfra 
 Quoit (Rte. 29, Exc. 3). The most remarkable village is at Chysawster 
 (Rte. 29, Exc. 3). The huts at Old Bosullow (id. id.) and the Crellas 
 at Bodennar (id. id.) should also be mentioned. 
 
 These huts and pounds, although agreeing for the most part in plan 
 and construction, may be of various dates. Many of them, there can be 
 little doubt, belong to the British period, when Dartmoor was covered 
 with tin-streamers ; and emporia frequented by foreign (Greek) mer- 
 chants seem to have existed near the mouths of the chief rivers, on the 
 sites afterwards known as Exeter, Totnes, and Plympton. Examples 
 of the same kind of walled town or “pound” have been found in 
 Northumberland, at Chesters, Greavesash, and other places ; having 
 also, within the area, a number of hut circles, similar in size and con- 
 struction to those on Dartmoor. Compare also the “ stone-built fortresses 
 and habitations occurring to the west of Dingle, County Kerry,” care- 
 fully described in a paper (with illustrations) by Mr. Du Noyer 
 (‘ Archaeol. Journal,’ vol. xv.). Groups of stone houses, closely resem- 
 bling the beehive-huts of Cornwall are frequent on the crests and slopes 
 of hills in the Sinaitic peninsula. They are nearly circular, the walls 
 rising almost perpendicularly for about 2 feet, when the dome-like roof 
 begins. Each course of stone slightly overlaps on the inside the one 
 below it, and the top is closed in by a large flat slab. A small door 
 about 20 inches square gives admission. It is suggested (Ordnance 
 Survey of the Peninsula, 1869) that these relics, together with stone 
 circles which are no doubt sepulchral, and are found in connection with 
 the huts, may be Amalekite. It is possible that beehive-huts were 
 built on Dartmoor and in Cornwall long after the days of the Britons. 
 On the hill of Garvah near Brown Willy there is a modem hut of this 
 character worth notice. (See Rte. 21.) Square huts, with granite 
 slabs in which are excavations for casting tin (?), have been found near 
 Yealrn Head on Dartmoor, and in close connection with a large group 
 of circular huts. 
 
Introd. Antiquities . x£V 
 
 10. Caves . — Of these, no example has hitherto been found in Devon- 
 shire. In Cornwall, the most remarkable are, the cave at Trelowarren 
 (Rte. 28) and the Fogou at Trewoofe (Rte. 29, Exc. 6, where a list of 
 the others is given). Their date is altogether uncertain. In all cases 
 they are connected with (generally placed within) ancient camps or 
 entrenchments. Similar caves are found in the Irish raths. They 
 seem to have been intended for storehouses. 
 
 11. Bridges . — Some of these on Dartmoor, formed of large flat slabs 
 of granite, are of great antiquity. The most striking are Post Bridge, 
 over the Dart (Rte. 13), and a bridge over the North Teign (Rte. 13). 
 
 12. Cliff Castles .— Many of the Cornish headlands have been cut off 
 by lines of fortification. The most perfect is Treryn Dinas , near the 
 Land’s End (Rte. 29, Exc. 5, where others are mentioned); Their date 
 is uncertain. 
 
 13. Hill Castles and Camps. — The most perfect in Devonshire are, 
 Cadbury (Rte. 2) ; Hembury Fort , near Honiton (Rte. 3) ; Membury 
 and Musbury (Rte. 3) ; Sidbury and Woodbury (Rte. 4) ; Castle Dike y 
 near Chudleigh (Rte. 11) ; Hembury (Rte. 12) ; Prestonbury , Cran - 
 brook , and Wooston (Rte. 8) ; and Clovelly Dikes (Rte. 18). These 
 are all earthworks ; and although there is evidence, in many cases, that 
 some of these camps were used at a later period (after the departure of 
 the Romans), there is nothing to show by what race they were origin- 
 ally constructed. East Devon is especially rich in ancient earthworks ; 
 the greater part of which have been described by Mr. P. 0. Hutchin- 
 son in the ‘Journal of the Archaeological Association,’ and in the 
 ‘ Transactions of the Devonshire Association.’ Their number indicates 
 that this part of the county must have been thickly populated ; and (if 
 the camps are of the same date as the tumuli and barrows) at a very 
 early period (see Rte. 3, Honiton , Exc. b ; and High Peak, Sidmouth , 
 Rte. 4). In Cornwall , besides some large earthworks, there are some 
 remarkable hill castles, in the construction of which stone has been 
 employed, and which, to some extent, resemble the “ pounds ” of Dart- 
 moor. The most important are, Castell an Dinas , near Penzance (Rte. 
 29, Exc. 2) ; and Chun Castle (Rte. 29, Exc. 3). They are probably 
 of later date than the earthworks. 
 
 14. Boundary -lines . — These are frequent on Dartmoor and in Corn- 
 wall. On Dartmoor they have sometimes been called “ trackways,” 
 but they are certainly not roads. They are formed of large blocks of 
 granite, ranged at intervals in rows, or as they are called in Devon- 
 shire “ reaves.” To what height these lines (which resemble the found- 
 ation of a broad wall) originally rose is quite uncertain. One of them, 
 the central trackway referred to in the notice of Grimspound (Rte. 8), 
 ran, in all probability, from Hameldon to Crockern Tor, and thence to 
 Roborough Down, between Plymouth and Tavistock. Thus it divided 
 Dartmoor, and extended from 12 to 14 miles. It ranges E. and W. 
 fc ‘ Considerable portions of it can still be traced ; but a large extent of it 
 rests rather upon the testimony of tradition than upon the evidence of 
 existing remains .” — Bowe ( Perarnb . of Dartmoor ). It is recognised by 
 
 [Dev. Sf Corn.-] b 
 
Introd. 
 
 Xx vi Antiquities. 
 
 the moormen as the central track ; all above it is called the north ; all 
 below it the south country. The peat-cutters are said to come upon it 
 below the surface in some places. In Cornwall , the Giant's Hedge 
 (Ete. 24) is the most important ancient boundary ; but many others 
 exist. A careful examination of them, in both counties, might assist 
 us greatly in tracing the gradual advance of the English westward. 
 
 § XVI. Eoman Period. — The Eomans have left but few traces of 
 their presence in Devonshire and Cornwall. The greater part of both 
 these counties seems to have been wild and covered with wood ; and they 
 were chiefly important as containing the tin districts, and the harbours 
 from which the metal was conveyed across to Gaul. The chief Eoman 
 road was a continuation of the Fosse and Icenhilde Ways, which seem to 
 have met on the eastern borders of Devonshire. Passing by Honiton 
 (perhaps the Moridunum of the Itineraries), it ran to Exeter (Isca Dan- 
 moniorum), and thence nearly in the line of the South Devon E ail- 
 way to Totnes (Statio ad Durium) and King’s Tamerton (Tamare), 
 where it crossed the Tamar, and proceeded onwards, in all probability, 
 into Cornwall. Its line in that county, however, has not been accu- 
 rately traced ; and the whole road west of Isca seems to have been of 
 comparatively small importance. The Fosse Way is described in many 
 of the later chroniclers as running from Totnes to Caithness ; ” an 
 expression used in the Welsh Mabinogion to denote the whole length of 
 the island, from north to south. Besides this principal road, a second 
 of less consequence ran from Exeter to the north coast. 
 
 Eoman villas have been found in Devonshire, at Uplyme, near 
 Axminster (Ete. 3), and at Honeyditches, near Seaton (Ete. 4). The 
 most important Eoman relics in the county have been discovered from 
 time to time at Exeter, which contained numerous temples and public 
 buildings. The Greek and other coins which have been found here 
 (see Exeter, Ete. 1) were imbedded at a considerable depth, under the 
 line of the Eoman road, which crossed the city from E. to W., and is 
 in fact the present High Street. The fact proves the very early period 
 at which Exeter served in all probability as the chief emporium for the 
 tin of the moorlands. 
 
 Of the Brito-Eoman period the chief are inscribed ( sepulchral ) stones , 
 many of which exist in Devonshire and Cornwall, and are noticed in 
 the routes where they occur. 
 
 § XVII. Mediaeval Period. — Churches. — Although Devonshire and 
 Cornwall are not counties of first-rate interest to the ecclesiologist, the 
 churches in both well deserve careful examination. In both the pre- 
 vailing style is Perpendicular, and it is not easy to account for the great 
 impulse given to churchbuilding in the West of England from the 
 middle of the 14th to the middle of the 15th century. In some parts 
 of North Devon the towers are of the enriched Somersetshire type, and 
 are very fine. (See post for the best examples). Eichly carved pulpits 
 and chancel- screens of wood are among the chief peculiarities of Devon- 
 shire churches. Norfolk and Suffolk are the only English counties 
 which in this respect admit of any comparison with Devon ; and it may 
 
Introd. 
 
 Antiquities . xxvii 
 
 be remarked that the general designs, and even the patterns, are very 
 similar in these widely separated districts. In Devonshire there is 
 reason to believe that in some parishes the art of wood-carving became 
 hereditary in certain families, and was followed by them for many 
 generations. 
 
 The churches best worthy of attention in Devonshire are the following. 
 (The most important are marked with an asterisk.) 
 
 Norman. — No perfect Norman church remains in Devonshire, but it 
 is clear, from the number of fonts and other fragments, that the county 
 was covered with small churches soon after the Conquest. Besides 
 fonts, Norman portions remain at * Exeter (Rte. 1, tran septal towers of 
 the cathedral), Sidbury (Rte. 4), South Brent (Rte. 7, tower), Ilfra- 
 combe (Rte. 18, tower), and elsewhere. 
 
 Early English. — *Sampford Fever ell (Rte. 1), Brent Tor (Rte. 6, 
 plain, but interesting from its situation), * Ottery (Rte. 3, aisles and 
 transeptal towers), Branscombe (Rte. 4, parts only), *Aveton Giffard 
 (Rte. 15), *Ermington (Rte. 16, tower and spire), * Buckfastleigh (Rte. 
 12, tower and chancel), Lustleigh (Rte. 8, parts only), * Combe Martin 
 (Rte. 18, parts), * Berrynarbor (Rte. 18, parts), Morthoe (Rte. 18, 
 parts), * Atherington (Rte. 17, parts). 
 
 Decorated. — * Exeter Cathedral (Rte. 1, the whole, except the tran- 
 septal towers), Axminster (Rte, 3), * Ottery (Rte. 3, nave, chancel, and 
 Lady chapel), *Haccombe (Rte. 9, the finest brasses in Devonshire are 
 here), Dartington (Rte. 7, parts), Bigbury (Rte. 15), South Brent 
 (Rte. 7), Plympton St. Mary (Rte. 7, parts), Beer Ferrers (Rte. 14, 
 parts), Egg Buckland (Rte. 7, parts), Tawstoch (Rte. 17), *West Ogwell, 
 near Newton Abbot (Rte. 7), *Denbury (Rte. 7), Ringmore (tower 
 and chancel, Rte. 15). There is a good deal of Decorated work scat- 
 tered throughout the county; but the greater number of churches 
 built during this period were more or less reconstructed in the 15th 
 century. 
 
 Perpendicular. — * Tiverton (Rte. 2, rebuilt ), *Crediton (Rte. 17), 
 Bridestow (Rte. 6), * Cullompton , with fine screen (Rte. 1), Plymtree 
 (good screen, Rte. 1), Bradninch (good screen, Rte. 1), Honiton (Rte. 3), 
 
 * Awliscombe (Rte. 3), * Ottery (N. aisle, Rte. 3), * Colyton (Rte. 4), 
 
 * Kenton (very good screen, Rte. 7), Ashton (Rte. 11), Bridford (Rte. 
 11), * Doddiscombleigh (with fine stained glass, Rte. 11), Marldon , 
 
 * Paignton (with stone screen, Rte. 10), *Totnes (Rte. 7), * Barberton 
 (stone pulpit and very fine screen, Rte. 7), Little Bemstone (Rte. 7), 
 
 * Dartmouth (very rich stone pulpit and oak screen, Rte. 10), Berry 
 Pomeroy (Rte. 7), *Modbury (Rte. 15), *Bovey Tracey (Rte. 8), * Ash- 
 burton (Rte. 12), * Widdecombe (Rte. 12), Chagford (Rte. 8), *Throw- 
 leigh (fine tower, Rte. 6), * Tavistock (Rte. 14), * Buckland Monachorum 
 (Rte. 14), Lamerton (Rte. 14), * Kelly (with much old glass, Rte. 14), 
 * Sydenham (old glass, Rte. 14), St. Andrew’s , Plymouth (Rte. 7), 
 Tamerton Foliot (Rte. 7), *Cheriton Bishop (Rte. 6), Lapford (Rte. 
 17), * Coleridge (very fine screen, Rte. 17), *Chulmleigh (very fine tower 
 and good screen, Rte. 17), * Combe Martin (very fine tower, good wood- 
 
xviii Antiquities . trod. 
 
 work, Rte. 18), * Berrynarbor (very fine tower, Rte. 18), Marwood 
 (Rte. 18), *Hartland (fine screen, Rte. 18), *South Motion (fine tower, 
 Rte. 17), ^Bishop's Nympton (very fine tower, Rte. 17), North Motion 
 (Rte. 17), * Chittlehampton (finest tower in the comity, Rte. 17), *Ather- 
 ington (very fine roodscreen, Rte. 17). 
 
 Two churcHes which have been rebuilt, and are excellent examples 
 of modern architecture, should be mentioned here : St. Mary Church 
 (Rte, 9), and Yealmpton (Rte. 16). St. John’s Church, Torquay (Rte. 
 9), a new church by Butterfield, is also very good. 
 
 The Cornish Churches are by no means so rich in architectural details 
 as those in Devonshire, but they present some peculiar features ; and 
 the “ oratories ,” or small churches of the earliest period, are of course 
 of very high interest. Cornwall was first Christianized by Irish and 
 Welsh missionaries during the 5th, 6th, and 7th centuries. These 
 missionaries generally built for themselves a cell, with a small oratory 
 or church attached, in which the inhabitant of the cell was usually 
 buried. Such oratories correspond exactly with the “ Dhamliags ” or 
 churches still found in Ireland, and there universally attributed to the 
 holy men of this period' (5th to 7th centuries). (See Petrie' s 6 Essay on 
 the Round Towers,’ for many illustrations). “ In character they may 
 be briefly described from the oratory of St. Piran (see Rte. 23), the 
 most perfect of them all.” (This unfortunately is not now the case.) 
 “ In plan they are a simple parallelogram (the breadth being about half 
 of the length), ranging from 20 to 35 feet in length, and from 10 
 to 17 in breadth. About one-third of the length, the eastern portion, 
 is separated by a low stone step ; this is the boundary of the chancel. 
 Within this is a stone altar ; and I have invariably found a stone bench 
 running along the base of the wall on the inside, and the floor sunk 
 two or three steps lower than the ground without the edifice. There 
 is always a door on the south side, and a little loophole about 1 foot 
 6 inches by 1 foot in breadth, and sometimes a doorway also at the 
 N.E. angle. In Ireland there is generally a round tower at this angle, 
 communicating with the interior of the church. As to height, I can 
 only adduce the height of St. Piran’s (the other ruins are scarcely 
 more than 6 or 8 feet high at the present time). St. Piran’s was 19 or 
 20 feet to apex of the gable, the side walls about 13J feet ; the church 
 being 25 feet in length internally. There is always a well beside these 
 structures in Cornwall, as in Ireland and in Wales also.” {Rev. W. 
 Haslam , ‘ Trans, of Exeter Dioc. Archit. Soc.,’ vol. ii.) 
 
 Besides the oratory of *St. Piran (Rte. 23), others, in a more or less 
 ruined condition, exist at St. Enodoc , near Padstow (Rte. 22 ; this is, 
 however, buried in the sand); at *St. Owithian , near Hayle (Rte. 27); 
 and at *St. Madron (called the Baptistery, Rte. 28). 
 
 Of the Norman period, the most important relics in Cornwall are, 
 *St. Germans (west front and part of nave, Rte. 23), Blisland (Rte. 
 20), *Kilkhampton (Rte. 25), *Morwenstow (Rte. 25), *Tintagel (some 
 portions may be Saxon, Rte. 22), Myloi\ near Falmouth (Rte. 26), 
 Lelant (Rte. 27), *Manaccan (S. doorway, Rte. 28). 
 
IntrocL Antiquities. xxix 
 
 In many Cornish churches the font js the only Norman relic 
 which remains. In some instances it is very doubtful whether the 
 apparent Norman work is not in reality an imitation, of a much later 
 period. 
 
 Early English. — The most perfect E. Eng. church in Cornwall is 
 *St. Anthony in Boseland (Rte. 26). Portions of the following churches 
 are also of this date. *Blisland (chancel, Rte. 21), *Camelford (chan- 
 cel and tower, Rte. 22), * Advent (Rte. 22), Bottreaux (Rte. 22), Min - 
 ster and Lesnewth (both Rte. 22), *Manaccan (Rte. 28). 
 
 Of the Decorated period, the most important remains are at *Pad- 
 stow (late Dec., restored, Rte. 22), *St.Columb Major (mainly early Dec., 
 and very good, Rte. 22), *Sheviock (very good, restored, Rte. 23), 
 *Lostwithiel (tower and spire early Dec., and unique, Rte. 23), St. 
 Austell (chancel, Rte. 23), Lanteglos (Rte. 24), *St. Ive's, near Lis- 
 keard (Rte. 25), Quethioch (Rte. 25), *St. Cury (with curious hagio- 
 scope, Rte. 28). St. Hilary (tower) (Rte. 29, Exc. 1). 
 
 As in Devonshire, the great era of churchbuilding in Cornwall was 
 the 15 th century. The chief Perpendicular churches are * Launceston 
 (very rich, Rte. 21), * Bodmin (fine tower, Rte. 23), Withiel (Rte. 21), 
 St. Wenn (Rte. 21), * Truro (Rte. 23), St. Teath (Rte. 22), *St. Kew 
 (Rte. 22), *Egloshayle (Rte. 22), *St. Mawgan (Rte. 22), Antony (Rte. 
 23), *St. Neot (with remarkable glass, Rte. 23), *St. Austell (nave and 
 tower, much enriched, Rte. 23), *Probus (tower fine, Rte. 23), Foivey 
 (Rte. 24), Botus Fleming (Rte. 25), * Callington (Rte. 25), *LinJcin- 
 horne (Rte. 25), Stratton (Rte. 25), Launcells (Rte. 25), St. Keverne 
 (Rte. 28), St. Just , in Penwith (Rte. 29, Exc. 4), St. Levan (Rte. 29, 
 Exc. 5), *St. Bury an (Rte. 29, Exc. 5), Paul (Rte. 29, Exc. 6); 
 
 Almost every church in Cornwall was restored or rebuilt during this 
 (the 15th) century ; and 44 all in the same general character, a peculiar 
 character, so prevailing, that beyond doubt it was intentional and had 
 an object.” Cornish churches 44 are low, and somewhat flat in the pitch 
 of the roof, and without buttresses to break the long plain horizontal 
 lines which, are so conspicuous. All these are features of the Perpendicular 
 style, I admit ; but not to the extent to which they are carried in 
 Cornwall. Besides this, the general form of a Cornish church is plain ; 
 externally, the plan of the larger ones is a parallelogram, divided into 
 three low ridges of roof : there is a porch on the south side ; this is the 
 only break in the horizontal line I allude to. The smaller churches 
 have generally but one aisle, and these have a transept also, and some- 
 times two transepts ; but even these do not relieve the plainness of the 
 exterior. This is not the character of one church, or two, or three ; but 
 more or less of all. It is their character, and I attribute it to the 
 boisterous nature of the climate in that narrow county, exposed as it is 
 with very little shelter to violent storms from the sea on both sides. 
 
 The towers are generally built of granite, and lofty, 
 
 and seem to rise in defiance of the storms ; but they are for the most 
 part plain ; their beauty consists more in elegance of proportion than in 
 richness of ornament. The staircase is generally within the tower. 
 
 [Dev. $ Corn . ] c 
 
Introd. 
 
 xxx Antiquities . 
 
 There is a class, however, which have a staircase turret at one of the 
 angles, rising from the other pinnacles, and finished with a little spire. 
 These towers are always found in valleys. Some few churches have, 
 instead of a tower, a spire of stone. These are found particularly along 
 the sea-coast. Some have neither tower nor spire, but a campanile on 
 a neighbouring hill. These churches are always situated in a deep 
 valley. There are six of them : St. Feoc, St. Mylor, Gwennap, Gun- 
 walloe, Lamorran, and Talland.” — Rev . W. Haslam (‘ Trans, of Exeter 
 Dioc. Arch. Soc.,’ vol. ii.). 
 
 Some few of the Cornish church-towers are more richly ornamented. 
 The chief are Truro, Launceston, St. Austell, and Probus. The tower of 
 Probus is essentially of the Somerset type, and would rank among the 
 best in that county. 
 
 In the interior, the chief feature is the absence of a chancel arch, 
 which is almost universal. In many of the churches the woodwork 
 deserves notice. 
 
 Crosses formed . of granite are very common in Devonshire and 
 Cornwall, and rank among the most ancient ecclesiastical remains 
 in England. Their numbers, indeed, have been thinned by the farmer, 
 who has found them of a size convenient for gateposts, but many 
 remain in their original positions, — in the churchyards, by the wayside, 
 in the market-places, and occasionally in wild and solitary spots on the 
 moors. They all agree in being much weathered by the elements, but 
 vary essentially in size and shape. Some are doubtless much older 
 than others, but the greater number are considered to date before the 
 conquest of Cornwall by Athelstan, a.d. 936. Many of these monuments 
 are Greek crosses, that is, formed of four short limbs of equal length, 
 which are sometimes carved on a circular disc, the spaces, between the 
 limbs being pierced, as in the Four-Hole Cross near the Jamaica Inn. 
 In a few, as in that at Perranzabuloe, the sacred symbol is marked out 
 by four small holes perforating crosswise the head of the stone. In the 
 Land’s End district these monuments are about 4 ft. high, occasionally 
 elevated upon steps, and sculptured with a rude representation of the 
 crucified Saviour. In Devonshire and the eastern parts of Cornwall 
 they are often on a much larger scale, 9 or more feet in height, and 
 sometimes bear traces on the shaft of scroll-work and a moulding. 
 (The most remarkable in Devonshire is at Coplestone, near Crediton, 
 Rte. 17.) These crosses may have been erected either as boundary- 
 marks of church property or sanctuaries ; to denote places for public 
 prayer, proclamation, or preaching ; by the wayside, to direct the pil- 
 grim to the different churches ; or, lastly, as sepulchral monuments, or 
 records of battle or murder. 
 
 Some interesting illustrations of the Cornish churches and crosses 
 have been published by Mr, J, T, Blight , of Penzance. 
 
 § XVIII. Castles and Domestic Architecture, — In Devonshire the Castles 
 to be noticed are, Hemyock (Edwardian, few remains, Rte. 1), * Okehamp- 
 ton (Edwardian, interesting and picturesque, Rte. 6), Lidford (Rte. 6). 
 Exeter (few remains, Rte. 1), * Compton (early 15th century, very 
 
Introd. 
 
 Antiquities. xxxi 
 
 curious and interesting, Kte. 8), *Totnes (Hen. III., Ete. 7), * Berry 
 Pomeroy (Edwardian, and large ruins of a Tudor mansion, Ete. 7), 
 *Plymplon (Hen. III., Ete. 7), Gidleigh (14th cent., small remains, 
 Ete. 8). It is unnecessary to repeat here the remarks which will he 
 found in Ete. 1 (Exeter) relating to the “ mottes ” or mounds of many 
 of these castles. No true keep tower exists at present in Devonshire or 
 Cornwall, with the exception perhaps of that at Okehampton. 
 
 Domestic Architecture. — * Holcombe Bogus (Eliz. and earlier Tudor, 
 Ete. 1), *Bradfield (Eliz., Ete. 1), Gatehouse of Shute (Tudor, Ete. 3), 
 Hayes (Tudor, only interesting as the birthplace of Sir W. Ealeigh, 
 Ete. 4). Bradley (very good 15th centy. Ete. 7). *Dartington (14th 
 and 15th cents., very interesting, Ete. 7), * Parsonage at Little Hem- 
 stone (15th centy., very good, Ete. 7), Fardell (Tudor, small remains, 
 Ete. 7), Boringdon (Tudor, Ete. 14), Kilworthy , Walreddon, and 
 Callacombe Barton (all Tudor, Ete. 14), Sydenham (Eliz., Ete. 14), 
 
 * Old Morwell House (15th cent., Ete. 14), Warleigh (Tudor, Etc. 7), 
 
 * Wear Gifford (15th centy., very good, Ete. 17). Leigh , in Church- 
 stow ; 15th and 16th cents. (Ete. 15). At Bindon , in the par. of 
 Axmouth (Ete. 4), is a curious 15th-centy. domestic chapel. The alms- 
 houses at Moreton Hampstead (Ete. 8) and at Widdecombe in the Moor 
 (Ete. 12), are good examples of late Elizabethan (or perhaps Jacobean) 
 work. 
 
 Devonshire has few remains of Monastic Buildings . The principal 
 are, *Tor Abbey (Premonstratensian, Ete. 9), *Buckfast Abbey (Cis- 
 tercian, Ete. 12), * Tavistock (Benedictine, Ete. 14), and *Buckland 
 (Cistercian, Ete. 14). There are some remains of the conventual 
 buildings at Plympton (Augustinian) Ete. 7. For all particulars con- 
 cerning the religious houses of Devon and Cornwall, see Dr. Oliver's 
 ‘ Monasticon Dioecesis Exoniensis,’ Exeter, 1846. 
 
 In Cornwall , the chief remains of Military Architecture are, * Laun- 
 ceston Castle (Hen. III., Ete. 2L), *Tintagel (13th cent., Ete. 22), 
 *Trematon (Hen. III., Ete. 23), *Bestormel (Hen. III., Ete. 23), Pen- 
 gersick (Hen. VIII., Ete. 28), and * St. Michael's Mount (Perp. and later, 
 Ete. 28). 
 
 Domestic Buildings to be noticed are, *Trecarrel and *Trerice (both 
 Perp., Ete. 21), Place , near ' Padstow (circ. 1600, Ete. 22), *Lanherne 
 (1580 and later, Ete. 22), * Lanhydrock (17th cent., Ete. 23), Prideaux 
 (Ete. 23), *Trelawne (15th cent., Ete. 24), * Place, near Fowey (Hen. 
 VII., Eliz., Ete. 24), *Cothele (Hen. VII., Eliz., Ete. 25), Godolpliin 
 (Perp., Ete. 28). 
 
 The remains of the r so-called * Stannary Court, at Lostwithiel are 
 temp. Edw. I., and interesting. 
 
 There are no remains of Monastic Buildings in Cornwall of much 
 interest or importance. St. Germans (Ete. 23) should perhaps be men- 
 tioned here ; but little exists except the church. 
 
XXX11 
 
 Geology . 
 
 In trod. 
 
 Geology. 
 
 § XIX. Those who are desirous of studying ancient geological forma- 
 tions will find Devonshire and Cornwall well adapted to such a pur- 
 pose. Their rugged coasts, mainly composed of the older rocks, display 
 a variety of instructive sections, and the mines afford opportunities 
 which rarely occur in other parts of England of descending through 
 the crust of the earth and examining its structure. The geologist may 
 obtain in these counties abundant evidence of physical convulsions 
 which have modified the surface, lie will find igneous rocks which 
 have been protruded from great depths ; sedimentary deposits ren- 
 dered crystalline by heat, or contorted by some local disturbance ; 
 stanniferous gravel, apparently accumulated by a flood which inundated 
 the country ; the remains of forests buried beneath the sand of the 
 shore ; beaches raised 40 and 50 ft. above the present level of the sea ; 
 and a great part of the country rent by ancient fissures of unknown 
 depth, now filled with a store of mineral treasure. 
 
 Besides the work of Sir Henry De la Beche on the geology of Corn- 
 wall, Devon, and West Somerset, and the Report of Messrs. Sedgwick 
 and Murchison in the 4 Transactions of the Geological Society,’ the 
 geology of Devonshire has of late years been largely illustrated by Mr. 
 W. Pengelly, Mr. G. W. Ormerod, and Mr. Vicary, whose papers will 
 be found in the 4 Transactions of the Devonshire Association for the 
 Advancement of Science, Literature, and Art.’ To the admirable 
 sketch of the geology of Devonshire contained in the address delivered 
 by Mr. Pengelly as president, for the year 1867, of the Devon Asso- 
 ciation, the following notice is largely indebted. Those who are 
 interested in the subject should make a point of referring to it. (It 
 will be found in the vol. of 4 Trans.’ for 1867.) The 4 Transactions of 
 the Royal Geological Society of CormvdlV contain the most important 
 materials for a geological survey of that county. 
 
 The rocks, deposits, and chief geological features of the two counties 
 may be arranged in chronological series as follows : — 
 
 1. The Metamorphic schists forming the southern angle of Devon- 
 shire ; the Prawle and the Bolt. These, which consist of mica and 
 chlorite slates, belong most probably to the Cambrian series ; the 
 most ancient sedimental rocks which exist. Rocks of the same series 
 are found at the Lizard in Cornwall, at St. David’s Head in S. Wales, 
 in parts of X. Wales, and forming the Longmynd hills in Shropshire. 
 In Cornwall, a patch of rocks extending inland from Dodman Point, 
 N. of Gorran Bay, belongs probably to the same series. 
 
 2. The Devonian rocks, slates, grits, and limestones lying between 
 the Bristol Channel on the X., and a line drawn through Barnstaple 
 and Clayhanger S. ; as well as those in S. Devon, between the parallel 
 of Xewton Bushel and Tavistock X., and that of Start Bay and Hope, 
 S. The whole of Cornwall, with the exception of the X. E. district, 
 
Introd. 
 
 xxxiii 
 
 Geology . 
 
 of its granites, and belts of trap and igneous rock, belongs to this 
 series; and, chronologically, much of this protruded igneous rock — 
 the serpentine, and greenstones or “ hornblendic traps,” — must be 
 classed with this group. 
 
 3. The Carboniferous rocks, covering the whole of central and west 
 Devonshire and a portion of N.E. Cornwall. 
 
 4. The Granites of Dartmoor and of Cornwall. 
 
 5. The Eocks of the New Red Sandstone series : Sandstones, Con- 
 glomerates, and Marls, occupying the greater part of east Devon, and 
 protruding in a long tongue from Crediton to Jacobstow, near Oke- 
 hampton. The Felspathic Traps , occurring for the most part on the 
 border of these red rocks, seem to belong to the same period. 
 
 6. The Lias found at the base of the cliff E. from Axmouth ; of 
 importance in this chronological arrangement, but not really occurring 
 in Devonshire or Cornwall. 
 
 7. The Greensands and Chalks , at Beer Head and other parts of 
 S.E. Devonshire, with outliers on the Haldons. 
 
 8. The Lignites , Clays , and Sands, forming what is known as the 
 Bovey deposit. 
 
 9. The Gravels overlying these beds, and found on the summits of 
 Haldon and elsewhere. 
 
 10. The Ossiferous Caverns: Kents Cavern, the Brixham Caves, 
 and those of Chudleigh, Yealmpton, and Oreston. 
 
 11. The Raised Beaches and Submerged Forests , the relative age of 
 which is not quite certain. 
 
 The two counties thus exhibit formations representing the three 
 great geological epochs — the Palaeozoic (Nos. 1, 2 and 3), the Mesozoic 
 (Nos. 5 and 7), and the Ccenozoic (Nos. 8, 9, 10 and 11). Some brief 
 notes may be made on each division of the series. 
 
 § XX. (1.) The Cambrian rocks of the Prawle and the Bolt form, 
 as is fully described in Ete. 10, a singularly wild and romantic coast- 
 line, and abut, at no great distance inland, on the Devonian rocks. 
 Gneiss is chiefly noticeable near the Prawle, and mica-slate near the 
 Bolt Head. In Cornwall they are found only at the Lizard, where 
 they pass under serpentine and diallage — igneous rocks protruded at 
 a later period through the Cambrians. Talco-micaceous slate, inter- 
 mixed with hornblende slate, occurs at the old Lizard Head (a mile 
 W. of the lighthouses), but is confined to that locality. The Gneiss 
 rocks of the Eddy stone are regarded as a connecting link between the 
 slates of the Lizard and the Bolt. 
 
 (2.) The rocks now termed Devonian were formerly embraced by the 
 term gramuacke or greywacke, and it was held that they, together with 
 the culmiferous series above them, belonged to the Transition rocks 
 (Cambrian-Silurian). But in 1839, Messrs. Sedgwick and Murchison, 
 after an examination of Devonshire, in which county and in Cornwall 
 these rocks are chiefly developed, expressed their conviction “ that 
 the great mass of the strata which support and appear to pass upward 
 into the culm field, are the equivalents of the Old Eed system, properly 
 
XXXIV 
 
 In trod. 
 
 Geology . 
 
 so called and they proposed for these older rocks of Devon “ the term 
 Devonian system , as that of all the great intermediate deposits between 
 the Silurian and the Carboniferous System s.” The term has in effect 
 been so used ; and has been regarded as chronologically exchangeable 
 for “Old Red Sandstone.” The characteristic “ Old Red” rocks, how- 
 ever, so largely developed in Scotland, Herefordshire, and elsewhere, 
 — red sandstones and conglomerates — are not found at all in Devon- 
 shire ; and the “ Devonian ” rocks — clay-slates, grey limestones, and 
 brown sandstones and flags — have no lithological resemblance to them. 
 “ The former, moreover, are crowded with remains of fish and eury- 
 pteridean crustaceans, none of which, when Sedgwick and Murchison 
 proposed the term ‘ Devonian/ had been found in this county ; whilst 
 our rocks teem with sponges, corals, encrinites, trilobites, and shells, 
 none of which occur in the supposed contemporary rocks north of the 
 Bristol Channel.” — W. Pengelly . On these grounds, as on some others, 
 the decision of Sir R. Murchison, that the Old Red Sandstone and the 
 Devonian rocks are strictly contemporary systems, and that each 
 system completely fills up the Siluro-Carboniferous interval, although 
 very generally adopted, has been objected to from time to time. Mr. 
 Pengelly considers “ that there are in Devon and Cornwall no repre- 
 sentatives of the Lower and Middle Old Red rocks of Scotland, but 
 that the lowest beds of the former are on the horizon of the upper divi- 
 sion of the latter.” The Old Red and Devonshire beds, he considers, fill 
 collective^, but not separately, the Siluro-Carboniferous interval ; and 
 there are two divisions of the Devonshire beds which are later than 
 the upper division of the Old Red. The divisions of the former series 
 he arranges thus : — Lower Damnonian (or Devonshire) : localities — 
 Mead foot, Torquay ; Mudstone, Lynton, Looe, Polperro, Fowey. This 
 division is of the same date as the Upper Old Red of Dura Den. 
 Middle Damnonian : Bradley Valley, Ilfracombe, Woolhorough, 
 
 Babbacombe, Dartington, Berry Head, Plymouth, and other limestone 
 districts. tipper Damnonian : Petherwyn, Baggy Point, Pilton, 
 Tintagel. The fact that the so-called “ Polperro fossils,” which were 
 long held to be sponges, have been shown by Mr. Pengelly himself to 
 be true fish (‘ Trans, of Devon Assoc.’ 1868), has gone far to increase 
 the probability that the Devonian rocks and the Old Red are closely 
 connected. Free swimming fish swarmed in the comparatively tainted 
 waters of the north, whilst none had been found in the Devonian 
 series. This difficulty has been lessened ; whilst “ there is probably 
 little or no difficulty in accounting for the absence in the Old Red 
 rocks of the fossils of Devonshire. The colour to which those deposits 
 owe their name i§ due to the presence of red oxide of iron, a substance 
 unfriendly to animal life, and which, by its prevalence at and near the 
 bottom of the old Scotch seas of deposit, would prevent the existence 
 there of corals, shells, and other dwellers at the sea bottom.” — W.P. 
 The conclusions of Sir R. Murchison and of Mr. Pengelly, however, 
 have not remained unquestioned. Mr. Beete Jukes has set forth a 
 different theory (‘ Journal of the Geol. Soc.’ vol. xxii.) ; and it must be 
 
Introd. Geology. xxxv 
 
 admitted that these old “ Devonian ” rocks offer many complexities for 
 the student’s consideration. 
 
 The great metalliferous districts of Cornwall are occupied by this 
 formation. The “ Devonian ” slates have been separated into two 
 divisions : the first consisting of strata which are metalliferous, and 
 contain many elvans, but few greenstones ; the second of slates which 
 are only sparingly metalliferous, and associated with a number of 
 greenstones, but no elvans. Tin and copper lodes are found among the 
 former rocks, and lead- veins in the latter. 
 
 The hornblendic traps and greenstones, which occur largely on the 
 borders of the Dartmoor granite, must, the greater part of them, have 
 have been ejected— (they are igneous rocks) — during the Devonian 
 period. The Cornish serpentine and diallage may be referred to the 
 same era, but are of later date, apparently, than the greenstones. 
 
 Serpentine is a beautifully coloured rock, so named from the waved 
 form of its lines, or the supposed resemblance of its streaks and colours 
 to those of a serpent’s skin, and is traversed by veins of steatite, which 
 occasionally contain fragments of serpentine and strings of native copper. 
 With diallage-rock it constitutes the greater part of the Lizard district, 
 where it forms as it were an island, being surrounded on all sides by 
 the sea or hornblende slate. In many places it appears to pass into 
 hornblende slate, as may be seen in Mullion and Pradanack Coves, the 
 Frying-pan near Cadgewith, and under the Balk at Landewednack ; 
 but the priority of the hornblende is inferred from the circumstance of 
 its underlying the serpentine, which between the Dranna Point and 
 Porthalla may be seen thrust among the slates with every mark of 
 violence. The correctness of this inference is evidenced at the Nare 
 Head by a grauwacke conglomerate, which, containing detrital frag- 
 ments of hornblende slate , affords no trace of serpentine or diallage, 
 although they occur in mass at a little distance. The diallage-rock pre- 
 dominates on the eastern side of this district, and is referred to a period 
 subsequent to that of the serpentine as in various places veins of the 
 former penetrate the latter. These diallage veins may be seen at 
 Coverack Cove, and in the cliffs near Landewednack. Diallage-rock is 
 distinguished from serpentine chiefly by its metallic brilliancy and 
 laminated structure. The hornblende slate which bounds the serpentine 
 on the N. abuts in its turn upon grauwacke, and the junction-line may 
 be traced, but not very clearly, from Bellurian Cove near Mullion by 
 Trelowarren to St. Keverne. Beyond this place, however, as the 
 hornblende slate stretches towards the coast, it becomes so intermingled 
 with common greenstones as to be scarcely distinguishable. Both 
 hornblende slate and greenstone are composed of hornblende and 
 felspar, but the one is schistose and the other granular in its structure. 
 
 In the N. of Devon the rugged grauwacke (Devonian) country of 
 Lynton and Ilfracombe attains its greatest elevation on Exmoor, and 
 passes under the carbonaceous deposits on a line between Bampton and 
 Fremington, near Barnstaple. It presents some dreary scenery on the 
 coast at Lynmouth, girding the shore with the most barren siliceous 
 
:£xxvi 
 
 In trod. 
 
 Geology . 
 
 sandstones. In the Valley of Eocks its fantastic crags are composed of 
 calciferous and schistose grits ; at Combe Martin the strata are argilla- 
 ceous slates, very beautifully coloured and traversed by veins of argen- 
 tiferous lead-ore ; at Ilfracombe argillaceous slates and schistose grits ; 
 at Mortboe dark slates relieved by a white tracery of quartz ; and below 
 Woolacombe sands, towards Baggy Point, streaked with manganese and 
 curiously weathered . In the S.W. of Devon the beds of this formation 
 are much complicated by faults , and by an irregular covering of more 
 modern deposits, but occupy a large area, being bounded by the sea 
 and mica-slate of the Bolt on the S., by granite and the carbonaceous 
 deposits on the 1ST., and by New Eed sandstone on the E. ; the boundary- 
 line passing near the towns of Launceston, Tavistock, Ivy Bridge, Ash- 
 burton, Newton, and Torquay. The limestones are perhaps the most 
 interesting rocks of the series, bearing on their marble surfaces the 
 stamp of a coralline origin, and contorted and rent by intrusive trap, 
 while they soar from woods or the sands of the shore in grey or glossy 
 roseate cliffs. . Those of Plymouth, Buckfastleigh, Cliudleigh, Brix- 
 ham, and Torquay are as well known for their beauty as for their 
 value in an economical point of view. Varieties of argillaceous slate, 
 or killas , form romantic cliffs in the bays of the Start and Bigbury. 
 
 In Cornwall, on the N. coast, between Boscastle and Tintagel, the 
 grauwacke has been forced seaward by the protrusion of the Bodmin 
 granite, and consists of argillaceous slates intimately mixed with 
 schistose and vesicular trap, the latter being much impregnated with 
 carbonate of lime. This volcanic ash , in Devonshire known as honey- 
 comb dun , may also be found abundantly above the church of St. 
 Clether. At South Petherwin the slates are variously schistose, cal- 
 ciferous, and argillaceous, and interesting as being stored with organic 
 remains. On the E. the banks of the Tamar afford some instructive 
 sections, especially at low water, between Saltash and ihe coast, where 
 the mode in which the trap rocks are associated with the sedimentary 
 beds may be well seen. N. of Cawsand, in Plymouth Sound, a por- 
 phyritic rock has been protruded with every mark of violence, being 
 curiously intermingled towards Bedding Point with the broken and 
 contorted slate-beds. Sir Henry De la Beche conjectured that this 
 igneous mass may be referred to the period of the New Red sandstone 
 formation, and its date is an interesting question, as connected with 
 the lamination of the grauwacke, since several of the smaller veins which 
 fill the slate cracks are separated by planes of cleavage coincident with 
 those of the grauwacke. In Whitesand Bay, between Trewinnow and 
 Tregantle, calcareous rocks containing fossils are associated with argil- 
 laceous slates, and it is thought probable that these beds may be a 
 continuation of the Plymouth limestones. A calciferous patch again 
 occurs at Looe, quartzose rocks N. of Sandplace, and arenaceous beds 
 at Liskeard ; the latter being quarried for building-stone. S. of this 
 town serpentine is found on the eminence of Clicker Tor, apparently 
 included among the slates. The schistose cliffs between Looe and 
 Polperro have acquired much interest by the discovery of Mr. Couch, 
 
In trod. 
 
 xxxvii 
 
 Geology » 
 
 of Polperro, wlio was the first to detect in them remains which, after 
 having first been pronounced fish, and then sponges, are now, and it 
 would seem with certainty, regarded as true ichthyolites (see Polperro, 
 lite 24). At Looe the only fossils are bivalve shells, corals, and encri- 
 nites ; but W. of this place, on the shore of Talland Bay, the ichthyolites - 
 make their appearance, and may be seen as far W. as Lantivet Bay, a 
 short distance from Pencarrow Head, where they are succeeded by corals 
 and shells. It is worthy of especial notice that the rocks of the small 
 district containing these remains underlie to the N. or towards the 
 land, while the rest of the S. coast underlies in an opposite direction, 
 or towards the sea ; the same easterly dip prevailing in both. This 
 inversion of the strata is first observed in Pottredler Bay, opposite the 
 W. end of Looe Island ; it continues westward a short distance beyond 
 Fowey Haven, and may be traced for 2 or 3 m. inland. 
 
 At Pencarrow Head we again find fossiliferous limestone, which 
 stretches across Fowey Haven near Polruan, in apparent continuation 
 of the beds at Looe, supporting red and variegated slates. S. of Turbot 
 Point hard quartz rock makes its appearance, and constitutes the emi- 
 nence called the Great Carn ; and N. of Gorran Haven another patch 
 of limestone associated with slates and some remarkable rocks of a 
 semi-porphyritic character. The sandstones contain several species of 
 orthidse and trilobites characteristic of the lower Silurian or Sedg- 
 wick’s Cambrian period. An excellent section — commencing with 
 the micaceous and arenaceous slates of the Dodman — is exhibited in 
 Yeryan Bay, where the coast cuts the strike of the beds. (This patch 
 of rocks is, therefore, of earlier character than the Devonian series ; 
 and should be compared with those forming the Prawle and the Bolt 
 in Devon). A band of limestone, which is considered lower in the 
 series than the calcareous beds of Gorran and Looe, will be seen in 
 this bay. At Penare Head a number of very interesting rocks are 
 intermingled on the cliffs, consisting of greenstones and trappean 
 conglomerates, argillaceous slates, serpentine, and diallage. The great 
 abundance of igneous products at this spot is regarded as evidence 
 of some local volcanic action during the formation of this part of 
 the series, but occurring previously to the protrusion of the Lizard 
 serpentine. Near Falmouth, between Pendennis Castle and the 
 Swan Pool, a good section is obtained at low water of the red and 
 variegated slate-beds which may be observed intermingled with 
 arenaceous rocks. Further W. the country has been so divided by 
 elvans, cross-courses, and lodes, as to offer few facilities for the study 
 of the Devonian rocks. On the N. coast argillaceous and arenaceous 
 slates extend from Hayle to Portreath, and fossiliferous calcareous 
 slates occur between Newquay and Towan Head. Watergate Bay 
 exhibits a fine section of the red and variegated beds which may 
 be traced inland to Tregoss Moor. At Towan Head trap-dikes can 
 be well studied, as also on the W. of Trevose Head, and higher 
 up the coast between Endellion and Port Isaac, where, on Kellan 
 Head, is an interesting example enclosing fragments of the adjoining 
 
 c 3 
 
xxxviii Geology, Introd. 
 
 slate, which appears to have been altered by the heat of the igneous 
 mass. 
 
 § XXI. (3). The carboniferous rocks extend over a great part of 
 central Devon, and occupy a considerable area in the N.E. of Cornwall. 
 They are admitted on all hands to be the equivalents of the Coal- 
 Measures ; but “ unfortunately for the mining and manufacturing 
 aspirations of Devonshire, the mineral fuel so richly stored up in con- 
 temporary deposits in S. Wales and other parts of Britain does not 
 exist here. Its presence would have changed our beautiful country 
 into a busy black country, and would also have changed our character 
 and history.” — W, P. The carboniferous rocks of Devon and Corn- 
 wall consist chiefly of sandstones, often siliceous, and of slates of various 
 colours, but also include roofing slates and limestones, and near the 
 western and southern boundary are abundantly associated with trappean 
 ash and other productions which bear a striking analogy to those of 
 existing volcanos. The general character of the formation is that of 
 drifted matter, including vegetable remains ; the principal difference 
 between the carbonaceous deposits and those of the grauwacke (Devo- 
 nian) being the more frequent occurrence of carbon in the former, 
 although no trace of this substance is to be seen in many of the beds 
 which consist of light-coloured sandstones, slates, and shales. The 
 prevailing soil on these rocks is a cold and ungrateful clay, and the 
 extensive district between Exeter, Okehampton, and the .N. coast is 
 notorious as the most sterile and worst cultivated land in Devonshire. 
 
 One of the most interesting circumstances connected with this for- 
 mation is the disturbance to which it has evidently been subjected. 
 The strata are twisted and contorted in a manner which defies all 
 description, but may be seen on every part of the coast between Bos- 
 castle and the mouths of the Taw and Torridge. This universal dis- 
 location has given rise to very extraordinary and picturesque cliff- 
 scenery, rendering this portion of the coast one of the most interesting 
 to the artist as well as to the geologist. In the confusion prevailing 
 among the strata, a general northern dip may be distinguished. The 
 boundary-line, commencing at the united embouchure of the Taw and 
 Torridge, runs eastward along the edge of the grauwacke (Devonian) by 
 South Molton and Bampton over the border into Somerset, where it meets 
 the new red sandstone and turns to the S.W., passing great promontories 
 of sandstone, to Tiverton, Exeter, and King’s Teignton ; there it again 
 encounters the grauwacke, which it skirts in a W. direction to Buck- 
 fastleigh, whence it sweeps round Dartmoor to Tavistock, and runs 
 N.W. by Lezant and the downs of Laneast and Wilsey to Boscastle in 
 Cornwall. The highest beds of the formation are the calcareous rocks 
 at Barnstaple ; the lowest, the sandstones of the Lynmouth Foreland : 
 those near Bideford are highly carbonaceous, containing a quantity of 
 anthracite. The singular eminence of N. Brent Tor and the great 
 copper-mine of Huel Friendship are both in this system. 
 
 “The grits of this group are traversed by numerous well-defined 
 joints, giving them a tendency to break up into rhombohedrons, or, 
 
In trod. Geology. ixxix 
 
 indeed, almost into cubes. On the sea-beach these blocks are soon 
 converted by the waves into the spheroidal boulders and pebbles which 
 everywhere line the cliffs from which they fell ; and reach their most 
 striking, though by no means an unusual, phase in the Pebble Eidge 
 at Northam Burrows.” — W, P. (see Ete. 17). 
 
 § XXII. (4.) Granite occurs in Devonshire and Cornwall in six 
 distinct patches, constituting the districts of Dartmoor, Brown Willy, 
 Hensbarrow, Carn Menelez, the Land’s End, and Islands of Scilly ; 
 rising to an elevation of 2050 ft. on Dartmoor, but sinking gradually in 
 its course westward, until in Scilly its highest point is barely 200 ft. 
 above the level of the sea. These six principal bosses are connected 
 with smaller patches, apparently outlying fragments, or links, which 
 unite the great bosses, and complete a chain extending through the 
 country in a N.E. and S.W. direction. These minor patches are all 
 marked by ruggedness and elevation above the neighbouring slate, 
 and form the eminences of Boringdon Park near Plymouth, Kit Hill 
 and Hingston Down near Callington, Castle-an-Dinas and Belovely 
 Beacon S. of St. Columb, Carn Brea and Carn Marth near Eedruth, 
 Tregonning and Godolphin hills W. of Helston, and the far celebrated 
 St. Michael’s Mount in the vicinity of Penzance. Another small 
 patch occurs at the Cligga Head, but further removed than those pre- 
 viously noticed from a large boss. 
 
 The granite of Dartmoor and Cornwall consists in general of a coarse- 
 grained mixture of quartz, mica, and felspar ; the latter mineral some- 
 times predominating and frequently occurring in large crystals, so as 
 to render the mass porphyritic. There are, however, three distinct 
 kinds of granite found on Dartmoor alone ; and these three are by no 
 means contemporaries. It has been conclusively shown that the order 
 in which these granites were projected is : 1, the Schorlaceous variety ; 
 2, the Porphyritic; and 3, the Elvan. The Porphyritic granite cuts 
 through the Schorlaceous in dyke-like forms, and is itself similarly 
 traversed by the Elvan. All the Dartmoor granites are more modern 
 than most of the Hornblendic traps or Greenstones. “Bands of 
 greenstone skirt, but do not enter, the granites of Dartmoor, and 
 thus suggest the idea that they are of higher antiquity than, and have 
 been cut off and thrust out of their original position by, the granitic 
 mass.” — W. P. The granites, therefore, are more modern than the 
 Carboniferous Period. They are also (at least the three Dartmoor 
 varieties) more ancient than the New Eed Sandstones. “ The Devo- 
 nian and. Carboniferous rocks surrounding Dartmoor are bent and 
 contorted ; and where the Eed Sandstones and Conglomerates rest on 
 them, they lie unconformably on the upturned ends of the disturbed 
 beds. It is obvious, therefore, that the Red rocks are more modern 
 than the era of the disturbance of the Carboniferous deposits.” This 
 disturbance is generally attributed, and with reason, to the intrusion 
 of the granite. In 1861 Mr. Vicary (whose paper on the subject will 
 be found in ‘Trans. Devon Assoc.’ for 1862) detected pebbles of each 
 of the three kinds of granite in the Eed Conglomerate at the base of 
 
iriirocL 
 
 xl Geology. 
 
 Haldon. They have been found elsewhere in the New Red rocks, 
 especially near Crediton ; and it is now certain that “ the oldest 
 granite of Dartmoor — the Schorlaceous variety — is post-Carboniferous ; 
 that the most modern — the Elvan — was exposed to the wear and tear 
 of wave and atmosphere prior to the formation of the Red rocks ; and 
 that the interval of time separating the Sandstones and Conglomerates 
 from the Culmiferous formation — between which there are no stratified 
 formations in our county — must have been of immense duration.” — 
 W. Fengelly . 
 
 Schorl and schorl-rock occur frequently on the S. of Dartmoor, 
 but rarely in the Brown Willy and Scilly granite. They are, how- 
 ever, found in some quantity in the Land’s End district, and 
 abundantly in that of Hensbarrow, being principally confined to 
 the outskirts of the respective bosses. Schorl-rock may be seen on 
 Dartmoor near Ashburton and Tavistock, and in Cornwall on the 
 Roche Rocks, which are entirely composed of it, and at Treryn Castle, 
 the site of the well-known Logan Stone, where it occurs in an interest- 
 ing manner, being mostly distributed among the joints. In the central 
 parts of the Hensbarrow district the granite is remarkable for its 
 liability to decompose, and often to considerable depths, the mica being 
 frequently replaced by schorl and a talcose or steatitic mineral. Other 
 varieties of granite may be found on the hills of Godolphin and Tre- 
 gonning. That which occurs in the parishes of Mabe and Constantine 
 is well known for its beautiful grain, a characteristic which renders it 
 so valuable for economical purposes. 
 
 In all these masses of granite a peculiar structure will be observed. 
 The rock is apparently separated into horizontal and parallel beds, and 
 these horizontal lines are intersected by a double series of vertical joints, 
 which run generally from N. to S., and from E. to W. By this net- 
 work of cracks air and moisture insinuate themselves, and, by decom- 
 posing the surfaces, separate granite into cubical blocks, and originate 
 those fantastic forms which seem to start up wildly in lonely places to 
 the bewilderment of the traveller. The Cheesewring near Liskeard, 
 Bowerman’s Nose on Dartmoor, and the Pulpit Rock in Scilly illus- 
 trate the effects of this structure. Mis Tor near Prince’s Town affords 
 a fine example of decomposition in the horizontal joints alone ; and 
 those colossal pillars which rise so magnificently from the headlands 
 of Tol Pedn Penwith and Pardenick, and along that coast towards the 
 Land’s End, of the weathering of the vertical joints. (An important 
 and interesting paper ‘ On some of the Results arising from the 
 Bedding, Joints, and Spheroidal Structure of the Granite of the 
 Eastern side of Dartmoor,’ by Mr. G. W. Ormerod, will be found in 
 the ‘ Journal of the Geological Soc.’ for August, 1869.) 
 
 De la Beche supposed that the band of granite was erupted along a line 
 of least resistance through a country previously weakened by volcanic 
 action — of which action the numerous trap-dikes and sedimentary 
 accumulations of ash afford indisputable proof, and that the present 
 bosses may mark the position of vents from which former igneous pro- 
 
Introd. Geology. ' kli 
 
 ducts had been discharged. Wherever the grauwacke can he seen in 
 contact with granite, it will be observed to be altered or rendered 
 crystalline, and to be penetrated in various directions by portions of 
 the igneous rock which, decreasing in size after they have entered the 
 slate, and dwindling often to mere lines, show that the granite when 
 injected must have possessed considerable fluidity. These veins may 
 be well studied near Ivy Bridge, and on the cliffs of the Land’s End 
 district, especially at Wicca Pool near Zennor, Porthmeer Cove W. of 
 the Gurnard’s Head, Pendeen Cove further W., Cape Cornwall, White- 
 sand Cove 1ST. of the Land’s End promontory, and Mousehole. The 
 geologist will also observe, near and at the line of contact, that both 
 formations are traversed by granite veins which, once regarded as evi- 
 dence of the contemporaneous origin of slate and granite, are now 
 attributed to the cracking of the upper part of the mass in cooling and 
 the injection of fluid granite into the fissures from beneath. Examples 
 may be seen on the N.E. side of St. Michael’s Mount. 
 
 Numerous bands of a granitic rock (the third Dartmoor variety) — 
 provincially termed elvan, from the Cornish word elven , a spark — 
 traverse the counties, in courses, with one exception, more or less 
 coincident with the strike of the great granite axis. They are 
 chiefly composed of a felspathic or quartzo-felspathic base, containing 
 crystals of felspar and quartz, mixed occasionally with schorl and mica, 
 and vary from an insignificant breadth to an expansion of 400 ft. 
 These elvans cut through both granite and slate, and are to be con- 
 sidered as dikes of the former rock, which have been erupted at a 
 period subsequent to the protrusion of the great bosses. The Roborough 
 stone quarried near Plymouth, and the Pentewan stone of Cornwall, are 
 elvans, and the latter is remarkable for containing fragments of slate, 
 which may be seen in a branch extending along the shore towards the 
 Black Head. There is also an elvan under the Old Pier and Battery at 
 Penzance, and a fine section of another is exhibited on the coast at St. 
 Agnes, where, at the Cligga Point, it may be observed to enter the 
 granite. Numerous veins of elvan are intruded into the carboniferous 
 rocks on the N. of Dartmoor. The greater number of the localities — 
 (at Meldon ; on Cocktree Moor, S. of N. Tawton ; at Hunts Tor, 
 Sharp] tor, and Whyddon Park on the Teign, — on the road from 
 Cranbrook Castle to Fingle Bridge, &c.)— have been discovered and 
 pointed out by Mr. Ormerod (“ Notes on the Carboniferous Beds 
 adjoining the N. edge of the Granite of Dartmoor,” ‘ Trans, of Devon 
 Assoc., 5 1867). 
 
 In an economical point of view, granite, although regarded with an 
 evil eye by the farmer, is a most valuable substance, and the traveller 
 will be scarcely correct in saying that all is barren on the Cornish moors. 
 It is largely quarried in various districts ; and the granite of Luxulian, 
 the Cheese wring, and Penryn, so well known for its beauty and dura- 
 bility, is the material of London and Waterloo Bridges, the Docks of 
 Chatham, the lighthouse and beacon on the Plymouth Breakwater, 
 and the monument on the field of Waterloo. 
 
xlii Geology . IntrocL 
 
 § XXIII. (5.) New Red Sandstone and its associated rocks rest upon 
 the eastern flank of the carbonaceous deposits, forming between Bab- 
 bacombe and Seaton an almost uninterrupted line of picturesque cliffs, 
 passing below the chalk formation near the eastern boundary of Devon- 
 shire, and extending northwards along the foot of the Black Down 
 Hills into Somerset ; the upper beds of the series principally consisting 
 of marls, the middle of sandstones, and the lower of breccias or coarse 
 conglomerates coloured blood-red by peroxide of iron. On the W. side 
 the intrusion of igneous rocks is evidence of volcanic action having 
 accompanied the deposit of part of the series, and the conglomerates, 
 composed of rounded fragments of the older strata, show very im- 
 pressively that water was a powerful agent during the same period. The 
 boundary-line on the W. is exceedingly irregular, passing by Tiverton 
 and Exeter to Torbay, but between those towns making a sweep to the 
 westward as far as Jacobstow near Okehampton. Some outlying patches 
 also occur at great distances from the body of the formation, viz. at 
 Bideford, Hatherleigh, Slapton in Start Bay, and the Thurlestone Bock 
 just W. of the Bolt Tail. The coast from Babbacombe to Culverhole 
 Point near Seaton exhibits a most excellent view of the entire series, 
 beginning at the lowest and ending at the highest bed. In this section 
 conglomerates prevail between Babbacombe and Dawlish, where red 
 sandstone becomes abundant, increasing towards Budleigh Salterton, 
 and predominating between that town and Sidmouth. Beyond Sid- 
 mouth the coast ranges eastward in heights of 400 ft. and 500 ft., the 
 sandstones becoming gradually intermingled with red marls, which 
 form the cliffs at Branscombe Mouth, and beyond that place dip below 
 a patch of chalk, but reappear at Seaton. The upper beds of the series 
 are then exhibited between the mouth of the Axe and Culverhole Point, 
 the red marls being succeeded by others of more varied and lighter tints, 
 and these in their turn disappearing from view below the lias of Dorset. 
 The formation is characterised by a scarcity of organic remains and by 
 the extreme fertility of some of its soils. 
 
 Mr. Pengelly considers that the New Red rocks of Devonshire 
 belong to the Triassic series, and to the Reaper , or uppermost group 
 of the Trias. The Permian rocks were deposited between the close of 
 the Carboniferous and the beginning of . the Triassic seras ; but of 
 them there are no representatives in Devonshire. 
 
 At or near the junction of the Carboniferous and Triassic formations, 
 from Washfield near Tiverton on the N. to Haldon on the S., occur 
 numerous masses of igneous rock — Feldspathic Traps . They are also 
 found along the strip of New Bed Sandstone which runs from Brad- 
 ninch to Jacobstow. These have been carefully examined by Mr. 
 Yicary, who (‘ Trans. Devon Assoc.,’ 1865) considers that the “earliest 
 eruptions occurred between the close of the Carboniferous and the 
 commencement of the Triassic eras ; and that later outbursts were of 
 the Triassic age.” The principal localities in which these traps occur 
 are Thorverton, Pocombe near Exeter, Posbury near Crediton (see 
 Bte. 17), Knowle, and W. Sandford, near Crediton (Rte. 17), Baddon 
 
Introd. 
 
 xliii 
 
 Geology . 
 
 Court, and Killerton. Most of these traps are excellent building 
 stone, and many of the quarries (Posbury, Pocombe, Eaddon Court) 
 have been worked for ages. 
 
 (6 and 7). The Lias (6) needs no special remark, and is not, in fact, 
 found in Devonshire. The Greensands and Chalks (7) belong to the 
 Upper Cretaceous system. The greensand strata cap the Black Down 
 Hills and the heights near Axminster, Seaton, and Sidmouth, and with 
 beds of chalk occupy a depression in the coast at Beer, coming down to 
 the level of the sea at Beer Head. Outlying patches cover the emi- 
 nences of Haldon and the lower grounds between Chudleigh and New- 
 ton, and a small patch occurs on the Black Hill near Exmouth, and 
 another of a few acres near Bideford, above 40 m. distant from the 
 greensand of the Black Downs. This wide-spread diffusion and iso- 
 lation of fragments support an hypothesis that the greensand of the 
 Black Down and Haldon Hills was once united, forming continuous 
 portions of a great arenaceous deposit, long since broken up by denuding 
 causes, which have not only borne away the connecting sands, but 
 have also scooped deeply into the supporting and older rocks. Further 
 evidence of a former extension of the chalk is afforded by the flints 
 which evetywhere cover the surface of the greensand. On the Black 
 Down Hills concretions of the greensand are extensively quarried for 
 scythe-stones. 
 
 § XXIY. (8) The Tertiary deposits occurring in these counties 
 consist of chalk flints and cherty gravel filling the hollows of the 
 cretaceous strata ; of clays, sands, and lignite in the greensand valley 
 of the Bovey Heathfield ; and of some remarkable beds of sands and 
 clays resting upon the slate of St. Agnes Beacon, on the N. coast of 
 Cornwall. Of these the Bovey Deposit (8) is very remarkable and 
 interesting. It belongs to the Lower Miocene series, which, before 
 Mr. Pengelly had determined the age of the Bovey formation, was 
 believed to be unrepresented in England. It is fully described in 
 Ete. 8. 
 
 The gravels (9) found on Haldon and elsewhere, although, of course, 
 Superficial and Tertiary, offer some difficult problems, and have yet 
 to be thoroughly examined. It is probable that, although all are 
 geologically very modern, they belong to widely different periods. 
 
 The Ossiferous Caverns (10) are noticed in the routes where they 
 occur. Kent's Cavern , in many respects the most interesting and 
 important, is described in Ete. 9, and the Brixham Caves in Ete. 10. 
 
 (11) The Baised Beaches and submerged forests. 
 
 In this brief review of the Devonian and Cornish strata it has been 
 shown that they exhibit manifest marks of a disturbing force, which 
 at different times has altered the surface of the country ; but few of 
 these signs are stamped in such broad and intelligible characters, or are 
 so vividly significant, as those ancient records which bear witness to 
 successive changes in the relative level of land and sea. On many 
 parts of this coast the retreat of the tide lays bare the trunks of 
 trees, and the stems still attached to their roots, standing in their 
 
Mines. 
 
 xliv 
 
 Introd. 
 
 natural position ; and the same phenomena have been exposed by ex- 
 cavations at the Pentewan and other tin stream- works. In the Mount’s 
 Bay the bed of the sea contains the remains of an hazel wood, among 
 which are found nuts and leaves, and even the elytra of insects which 
 lived upon the trees. Traces of submarine forests are also found in 
 Torbay, at the mouth of the Salcombe estuary, in Bideford Bay, at 
 Porthleven near Helston, on Hayle Sands, at Perran Porth, and at the 
 mouth of the Camel. Again, upon the cliffs at various points on the 
 coast, sea beaches may be observed at heights varying from a few to 40 
 or 50 ft. above the present high-water mark. The examples are nu- 
 merous ; but those occurring between the Land’s End and Cape Corn- 
 wall are the most interesting, on account of the large size of the rounded 
 stones of which they are composed. Raised beaches may be seen also 
 on Hope’s Nose near Torquay, at Plymouth, in Gerran’s Bay (a fine 
 example), between the harbour of Falmouth and Coverack Cove, on 
 both sides of Cape Cornwall, in St. Ives’ Bay, and at the mouths of the 
 Camel, Taw, and Torridge. On the E. of Trewavas Head, and on the 
 E. side of Pendennis Castle, they may be observed below cliffs which 
 have been worn by the action of the sea, although now beyond its 
 reach. The physical changes which these submarine forests and raised 
 beaches record are to all appearance a considerable subsidence of the 
 land, by which the woods growing on the shore were buried some depth 
 beneath the waves, which gradually covered them with sand, and a 
 subsequent elevation of the coast, in which the submerged trees 
 were brought to their present position, and the beaches raised to the 
 height at which we now find them. 
 
 On the N. of Cornwall the traveller will frequently find the 
 shores desolated by sand, which, principally composed of commi- 
 nuted shells, is piled upon them in towans or hillocks. With respect 
 to the origin of these sandy dunes, the old vegetable surfaces which 
 may be traced in their structure afford evidence of a gradual accumu- 
 lation, and there is reason to suppose that the principal part of the 
 sand was drifted inland from the beach before the coast was raised to 
 its present height. It is curious to observe how effectually a small 
 stream of water will arrest the progress of the sand. The particles 
 carried forward by the wind are seldom raised many inches from the 
 ground, and individually are held suspended for very short distances. 
 No sooner, therefore, are they drifted past the bank of the stream than 
 they fall into the water, and are carried away by the current. 
 
 Mines. 
 
 § XXY. The mineral productions of Devonshire and Cornwall, con- 
 sidered as objects of trade and manufacture, are principally two, — tin 
 and copper, for the former of which the metalliferous district between 
 the northern limits of Dartmoor and the Land’s End has been celebrated 
 from a very distant period. It is found nowhere else in the British 
 islands. There is no doubt that tin was known and manufactured many 
 
IhtrocL 
 
 Mines . 
 
 xlv 
 
 centuries anterior to the Christian epoch. It is mentioned by Homer as 
 one of the metals employed by Vulcan in the construction of the shield 
 of Achilles ; the Tyrians prepared from it their celebrated purple dye ; 
 and there are frequent allusions to it in the writings of the Old Testa- 
 ment (Isaiah and Ezekiel). Tin was in fact indispensable for the 
 manufacture of bronze (a mixture of tin and copper). Without a 
 knowledge of its qualities, and the power of smelting it, that “ bronze 
 period ” could not have been inaugurated which marks so great an 
 advance in the history of human civilization. Tin is the rarest of 
 metals. It is found only in this country, in Malacca and the East 
 Indian Islands, in Northern Spain, in Saxony and Bohemia, and on 
 some parts of the Siberian frontier : but of these tin districts none have 
 ever been very productive, with the exception of Malacca and Britain. 
 The tin of the ancient world was probably procured from both East 
 and West; but there is every reason to believe that at least as much 
 was exported from this country (and from a very early period) as was 
 brought to the shores of the Mediterranean from Malacca. (The quan- 
 tity of tin which has lately been found to exist in some of the East 
 Indian Islands was apparently unknown to the ancients.) The favourite 
 belief has been that Phcenician ships, either from Tyre or from Phoenician 
 colonies on the coast of Spain, came direct to Britain to fetch it ; but 
 this theory, which rests upon no certain evidence, has been attacked 
 with no small power by Sir George Cornewall Lewis, who, in his ‘ Astro- 
 nomy of the Ancients,’ has shown that the caravan route across Gaul 
 (which was certainly in use when Diodorus wrote, b.c. 40) was in all 
 probability the channel, from the earliest times, for the conveyance of 
 British tin to the shores of the Mediterranean. On the other hand, 
 Dr. Smith (* The Cassiterides,’ by George Smith, LL.D., London, 1863 ) 
 after collecting all the passages relating to the Phoenician and Massilian 
 tin trade (and thus enabling readers to form their own opinion) comes 
 himself to the conclusion that in the earliest period the Phoenicians did 
 visit Britain by sea, making Gades their western station for the trade ; 
 but that after Caesar’s first invasion (and not before) the tin was carried 
 overland through Gaul to Marseilles. Diodorus is the first who 
 mentions this line of traffic. “ The inhabitants,” he says, “ carry 
 the tin to a certain island lying on the coast of Britain, called Iktis. 
 During the recess of the tide, the intermediate space being left dry, 
 they carry over abundance of tin to this place in their carts. There 
 the merchants buy it of the natives, and transport it into Gaul.” 
 This Iktis has been frequently regarded as St. Michael’s Mount, which 
 is at present accessible at low water. There is reason, however, 
 for believing that this was not always the case; and the claims of 
 “Feed's” (the Isle of Wight) to be the island mentioned by Diodorus 
 are not to be set aside hastily. Wight, it is true, was never accessible 
 at low water ; but Diodorus, in the next sentence, tells us that “ the 
 other islands ” between Britain and Gaul w T ere also thus accessible — 
 a proof that his knowledge of the British coast and of the tin district 
 was by no means accurate. It is probable that many small islands 
 
xlvi 
 
 Mines . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 served as emporia for tin, and that the u Iktis ” of Diodorus must he 
 accepted as referring to them generally. (It should here be mentioned, 
 however, that Sir G. C. Lewis, after reading the pamphlet of Sir 
 Henry James on the remarkable block of tin now in the Truro Museum 
 (see the circumstances of its discovery in Rte. 27, St. Mawes) declared 
 himself “ satisfied ” that St. Michael’s Mount was the Ictis of Diodorus, 
 although still holding to the belief that British tin had always been 
 conveyed across Gaul to Marseilles. See his letter in the 45th Report 
 of the R. Instit. of Cornwall. Truro, 1863.) The very early coins 
 found at Exeter (see Rte. 1), seem to prove that the site of this city 
 was the chief emporium for Devonshire. 
 
 When the Romans became masters of Britain, they of course engrossed 
 the whole of the trade. In the unsettled times which followed their 
 departure, the mines are supposed to have been neglected, but it is 
 certain that the Continent was still to a considerable extent supplied 
 from them. Church-bells first came into use in the 6th and 7th 
 centuries, so that it may be presumed there was a demand for tin 
 during the Saxon period. Tin mines are not mentioned in Domesday, 
 but soon after the Conquest we find them in full action, and are soon 
 enabled to leave the doubtful field of tradition and enter on the sure 
 ground of record. In the reign of King John, when Bruges was the 
 chief tin emporium, Devonshire produced more tin than Cornwall, but 
 the trade was inconsiderable, and is said to have been entirely engrossed 
 by the Jews, whose ancient smelting furnaces exist at this day under the 
 denomination of Jews’ Houses , the right of working the mines being 
 wholly in the king as Earl of Cornwall. The exports, however, greatly 
 increased under the auspices of his son Richard, Earl of Cornwall and 
 King of the Romans : but in the first Edward’s reign the Jews were 
 expelled the country, and the tin-mines fell back into their former 
 state of neglect. (This is the belief which is generally held, and the 
 statements which are generally made, with respect to the early history 
 of the tin trade. But there is good reason for doubting whether the 
 Jews were at any time the great tin “ farmers” of Devon or of Corn- 
 wall. They are not so represented by any contemporary writer, or in 
 any authentic documents. The origin of much Cornish tradition about 
 the Jews has been clearly explained by Prof. Max Muller (‘ Chips,’ vol. 
 iii.), who suggests that the name of “ Jews’ houses ” given to old 
 smelting places, is an instance of that dialectic metamorphosis which 
 all students of language know to be frequent. The legend of St. Piran, 
 the patron of miners (see Rte. 23) connects him with a certain St. 
 Chywidden, whose name literally signifies “ white house ” or “ smelt- 
 ing house.” These smelting houses may have been generally called 
 “ Chy ” ( tshey or dzliyi ) = “ the houses,” and as the old Cornish meaning 
 of “ chy ” became obscured, the word was easily understood as signi- 
 fying — what it seemed to express — “Jew.” Hence the “Jews’ 
 houses.” This explanation must be regarded as at least possible ; and 
 until clearer evidence is afforded of the former influence of the Jews in 
 Cornwall the tradition regarding them must be held as doubtful.) 
 
Introd. 
 
 Mines . 
 
 xlvii 
 
 Edmund Earl of Cornwall (son of Earl Richard) granted to the tinners a 
 charter, which conferred the important privilege of holding plea of all 
 actions relating to the mines, those of “ lyfe, lymme, and land excepted,” 
 and declared that the prisons for offending tinners should he at Lidford 
 and Lostwithiel. In consideration of these privileges the gentlemen 
 tinners hound themselves to pay to the Earl of Cornwall and his suc- 
 cessors a certain duty (afterwards fixed at 4s.) upon every hundredweight 
 of tin, and certain towns were appointed to which the blocks of metal 
 should he brought to he coined or assayed and kept until the dues were 
 paid. To facilitate these arrangements the miners of Cornwall were 
 separated from those of Devon, whom they had been previously accus- 
 tomed to meet every seventh or eighth year on Hingston Down, near 
 Callington ; and from this time the Stannary parliaments on Crockeru 
 Tor — a wild hill in the centre of Dartmoor — are probably to be dated. 
 The charter of Edmund was confirmed by Edw. I. in 1305, and marks 
 an epoch in Cornish mining, as it was the origin of many of those customs 
 and practices which are peculiar to the Stannaries, such as the right of 
 bounding , or selecting portions of waste land for mining to be marked 
 out by pits, which encouraged the search for tin by vesting in the 
 bounder a large proportion of the metal found within the described 
 limits. From the period of the Edwards the mines continued to 
 flourish, under the protection of the Crown, until the reign of Mary, 
 when the tide of fortune once more receded, and at the accession of 
 Elizabeth had reached so low an ebb, that that sagacious ruler invited 
 over a number of Germans to assist and instruct her poor “ spadiards” 
 of Devon and Cornwall, of whose doleful condition at that time we 
 have a picture by Risdon : — u His apparel is coarse, his diet ' slender, 
 his lodging hard, his drink water, and for lack of a cnp he generally 
 drinketh out of a spade.” Under the wise rule of Elizabeth the mines 
 were soon again filled with busy labourers, and in particular those of 
 silver and lead at Combe Martin and Beer Ferrers, which are supposed 
 to have been vigorously worked in this reign. Some improvements 
 had been made in the laws and regulations of the Stannaries. A 
 warden was appointed to do justice in law and equity, from whom 
 there was an appeal to the Duke of Cornwall in council, or for want of a 
 Duke of Cornwall, to the Crown. Henry VII. had conferred an important 
 addition to these privileges — that no law relating to the tinners should 
 be enacted without the consent of the Stannary parliament , which con- 
 sists of 24 gentlemen, a certain number chosen by a mayor and council 
 in each of the Stannary divisions. Whatever is enacted by this body 
 must be signed by the stannators, the lord warden, or his deputy the 
 vice-warden, and afterwards by the Duke of Cornwall, or the sovereign, 
 and when thus passed has all the authority, with regard to tin affairs, 
 of an act of the whole legislature. But a necessity for convening these 
 parliaments seldom occurs. The Devonshire stannators were last 
 assembled on Crockern Tor in 1749, the Cornish at Truro in 1752-3. 
 In 1836 the Stannary courts of judicature were remodelled by the 
 Act 6 & 7 Will. IV. c. 106. Their jurisdiction was extended to all 
 
xlviii 
 
 Mines . 
 
 In ttod. 
 
 minerals ; the equitable jurisdiction of the vice- wardens, which had 
 long been questioned, was recognised and confirmed ; and the courts of 
 equity and common law were united and placed under the presidency 
 of the vice-wardens, one for each county, who were to he barristers of 
 5 years’ standing at the least. From the judgment of these courts 
 an appeal lies to the lord warden, assisted by not less than 3 of 
 the judicial committee of the Privy Council, and finally from the 
 lord warden to the House of Lords. Since the reign of Elizabeth the 
 ancient tin-trade has kept pace with the extension of commerce, but its 
 importance has been eclipsed by that of copper. The supply of tin 
 from these western counties is at this day not half that of copper, yet 
 Cornwall produces 9-10ths of the tin which is annually furnished by 
 Great Britain and the whole continent of Europe. The discovery, 
 however, of tin in vast quantities in the East India Islands, lying 
 almost on the surface, has most injuriously affected the miners of the 
 West. 
 
 § XX YI. The history of Cornish copper , now the principal metallic 
 product of the county, is a tale of yesterday compared to that of tin. 
 The sources of this mineral lying deeper in the earth, it required an im- 
 proved method of mining and drainage to penetrate to them, and such 
 an assistant as the steam-engine to supersede the rude appliances of 
 ancient days. It appears that nQ notice was taken of this valuable 
 metal until the latter end of the 15th century, and very little attention 
 paid to it until the Bevolution, at which period its true value began 
 gradually to unfold itself. It is supposed, however, that no mine was 
 worked exclusively for copper until the year 1700, previously to which 
 some Bristol merchants had largely profited by buying up the casual 
 produce at the rate of 2 1. 10s. to 4 1. per ton. In 1718 a Mr. Costar 
 gave a great impulse to the trade by draining several of the deeper 
 mines, and instructing the Cornish in an improved method of dressing 
 the ore. From that period the present trade in Cornish copper may be 
 said to date its rise, the annual produce, with some exceptions, having 
 progressively increased. In the year ending June 30, 1856, it 
 amounted to no less than 209,305 tons of ore, which produced 13,275 
 tons of fine copper, and 1,283,639Z. in money. In 1851 the mines of 
 Devon and Cornwall together were estimated to furnish one- third of 
 the copper raised throughout other parts of Europe and the British 
 Isles (De la Beche). Upon the first discovery of the yellow ore, which 
 is now so valuable, the miner, to whom its nature was entirely un- 
 known, gave it the name of poder , or dust ; and it will scarcely be 
 credited in these times that he regarded it, not only as useless, but 
 upon its appearance was actually induced to abandon the mine ; the 
 common expression upon such occasions being, that the ore came in and 
 spoilt the tin ! Lead, silver, antimony, iron, arsenic, and manganese 
 are other products of the mines of Devonshire and Cornwall, but of 
 trifling importance compared to tin and copper. Cobalt has also been 
 discovered in small quantities, and grains and nuggets of gold are 
 occasionally found in the alluvial soil of the tin Streamworks. The 
 
In trod. Mines . xlix 
 
 finer grains are considered perquisites of the miner, who deposits them 
 in a quill, which he sells, when filled, to the goldsmith. 
 
 § XXVII. The peroxide of tin and sulphuret and bisulphuret of copper 
 — the only ores of these metals which are of consequence in a mining 
 point of view — are contained in veins or lodes , which run in an E. and 
 W. direction, through granite as well as slate, and vary in width from an 
 inch to upwards of 30 ft., hut the average breadth is from 1 ft. to 4 ft. 
 These are frequently interrupted by cross-courses , or veins seldom 
 metalliferous, which maintain a direction from X. to S., and often 
 prove to the miner a source of considerable vexation, for they alter the 
 position of, or heave the lodes they intersect, and occasionally in such 
 a manner as to baffle all attempts for their recovery. The veins 
 containing lead pursue a X. and S. course, but are rarely associated 
 with lodes of copper or tin. Indeed, each district is in general 
 characterised by the preponderance of a particular ore. Thus Dart- 
 moor, St. Austell, and St. Agnes are principally stanniferous, the great 
 mining-field of Gwennap, Redruth, and Camborne, cupriferous, while 
 lead is for the most part confined to the X. and E., and manganese and 
 antimony to the X.E. parts of Cornwall. The Tavistock district is, 
 however, of a mixed metalliferous character, and the ores of zinc and 
 iron are largely distributed, but have hitherto been little noticed by 
 the miner. The geological structure of the country is commonly 
 an indication of the ores which may be found in it. Tin, as a 
 general rule, is to be sought in granite, lead in slate, and copper 
 near the junction of these two formations. But copper and tin 
 frequently occur in one and the same lode, or in separate lodes 
 running parallel courses, and so near each other as to be within the 
 bounds of the same mine. 
 
 The Devon Great Consols mines, in the Tavistock district, have 
 been from 1843 to 1871 the largest and most profitable copper mines 
 in the kingdom. (The divided profits during this period amounted to 
 £1,192,960.) The production and profits have now greatly declined; 
 but it is intended to prosecute the search for tin, which lies beneath 
 the general depth of the copper. The works will be continued to a 
 depth of 300 fathoms from the surface. The machinery and admirable 
 working arrangements of the great mines are well worth inspecting. 
 Two “ man engines ” or “man lifts” are in daily use. There are works 
 for the precipitation of the copper contained in the water pumped from 
 the mines, yielding an annual sum of at least £1000. There are also 
 large works for the elimination of arsenic from the iron pyrites con- 
 tained in the various lodes. More than 2000 tons of refined arsenic 
 are annually produced here — an amount calculated as about one-third 
 of the arsenic produced over all Europe. 
 
 The usual method pursued in a search for lodes is to sink a pit to a 
 certain depth, and then to drive a tunnel or cross-cut X. and S. (for tin 
 and copper), so as to meet with every vein in the tract through which 
 it passes. Another, and an ancient mode of discovery, is that termed 
 slioding , which is now little practised, but as it is somewhat curious it 
 
1 
 
 Mines . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 deserves to be mentioned. The lodes rise to the surface, and by the 
 wear and tear of ages the upper portions have been detached, and 
 removed from the parent bed. If a tin-stone then should be found in 
 turning up the soil, the Cornishman endeavours to ascertain whence it 
 may have been derived, and tries up hill for the broil, or head of the 
 vein, from which it has descended. It is seldom, however, that a new 
 mine is opened from the surface, or grass, as it is called ; the re- 
 working of those which are from time to time abandoned being in 
 general sufficient to engage all the speculators. But, occasionally, 
 when a lode in a particular undertaking has assumed a very promising 
 appearance, a number of mines will be opened in its vicinity, in the 
 hope of participating in the good fortune. 
 
 § XXVIII. A lode having been found, the licence of the owner of the 
 soil must be obtained before any operations can be commenced — except, 
 indeed, in a search for tin, when the right of bounding , if properly exer- 
 cised, would authorise the discoverer to proceed. The proprietor of the 
 land, having sanctioned the undertaking, is called the lord , and receives, 
 as his share or dish, about one-eighteenth of the ore raised ; the parties 
 who work the mine being termed adventurers, and their shares depend- 
 ing upon the original agreement. The licence to the company is for a 
 period of six months or a year, and at the expiration of this time the 
 proprietor is bound to grant a lease, which is generally in the same 
 terms as the licence. 
 
 In working a mine three material points are to be considered — the 
 discharge of the water, the removal of the rubbish or deads, and the 
 raising of the ore. To assist in the drainage an adit, or subterranean 
 passage, is commenced in a neighbouring valley, and driven up to the 
 vein, so that the level to which the water is to be pumped may be 
 brought as low as possible. The shaft, a well-like aperture, is then 
 sunk in the rock, and a machine called a whim erected, to bring up the 
 deads and ore. This is a hollow cylinder of wood, or cage, which turns 
 on a perpendicular axis, and is worked by horses — or, in a large mine, 
 by a steam-engine. As it revolves, a rope which encircles it winds and 
 unwinds, and raises one bucket or kibbal to the surface, whilst the other 
 is descending the mine. The shaft is in general a square-shaped excava- 
 tion, about 6 feet in breadth by 9 or 12 feet in length, and divided in 
 the centre by a strong wooden partition, which makes it in reality two 
 shafts, one for the use of the miner, the other for raising the ore. The 
 veins or lodes which are to be reached by the shaft may be compared to 
 leaning walls enclosed in the solid rock, slanting or underlying to the 
 rt. or 1., and descending to unknown depths. Where the shaft intersects 
 them, levels or galleries, about 6 ft. in height by 4 in width, are driven 
 in a horizontal direction along their course, one below the other, at 
 intervals of from 10 to 20 or 30 fathoms ; and when extended to a cer- 
 tain distance from the original vertical shaft, it becomes necessary, for 
 the purpose of ventilation, to sink another shaft, which is made to 
 intersect all the levels in the same manner as the first. In the interval 
 a communication is also frequently made between two galleries by a 
 
Introd. 
 
 Mines. 
 
 li 
 
 partial shaft called a wins . More than one lode are generally worked 
 in a mine, and when this is the case levels run parallel to each other at 
 the same depth, and communicate by cross-cuts , driven through the 
 intervening rock, or country , as it is called. The excavations are prin- 
 cipally effected by blasting with gunpowder, and the annual cost of the 
 quantity consumed in the Cornish mines amounts to as much as 18,000Z. 
 It is not, however, usual to extract all the ore which can be obtained. 
 Certain portions are reserved to meet any run of ill success ; these are 
 termed the eyes of the mine , and are picked out only under pressing 
 circumstances. The surface of the mine is called the hat , and every 
 level and shaft has a name. In large adventures it is the practice to 
 devote a proportion of the proceeds to “ discovery,” and this is some- 
 times pursued on an astonishing scale. In about 20 years the solid 
 rock or country of the Consolidated Mines, Gwennap, was tunnelled for 
 this purpose a distance of 63 m., at a cost of 300,000Z. Much skill is 
 shown by the miner in his underground work. The cross-cuts are 
 driven by the guidance of a compass, a survey which is called dialling , 
 and a shaft is frequently commenced at different depths, and cut with 
 such exactness that the various parts, when completed, coincide, and 
 form one vertical excavation. 
 
 A curious circumstance connected with these gloomy recesses is 
 the increase of the heat with the depth, which is after the rate of 1 
 degree of Fahr. for every 53*5 ft., and has been cited as an argument 
 for the Leibnitz doctrine of a central fire in the interior of the earth. 
 Some, however, have sought to explain it by imperfect ventilation, and 
 the heat generated by the combustion of candles and explosions 'of 
 gunpowder ; and it is worthy of notice that the discovery by Sir 
 James Ross of the uniform temperature of the ocean at great depths 
 appears to militate against the hypothesis of a central source of heat. 
 In the deep levels of the Consolidated Mines the mercury rises to 98° 
 Fahr., in those of the United Mines to 110° Fahr. The miners work 
 naked to the waist, and have been known to lose 5 lbs. from perspiration 
 during the spell of 8 hours. 
 
 The drainage of the mine is an important consideration, and the 
 magnificent engines by which it is effected are well worthy of the 
 traveller’s attention. Before the invention of the steam-engine, the 
 work was performed by horses, men, or water. The pumping ma- 
 chines were then the water-whim , in which a horse raised buckets or 
 kibbals to the surface ; the rag and chain pump, which was kept 
 incessantly in motion by parties of men, who relieved each other at 
 intervals of 6 hours ; and the ivater-wlieel and bobs, a wheel, perhaps 
 50 ft. in diam., turned by a stream of water, and connected with pumps 
 formerly of wood, but now universally of cast iron. This apparatus is 
 still used in Cornwall, and is generally employed in Devonshire, where 
 running water is plentiful. In the 18th centy. Newcomin and Savery 
 introduced their atmospheric or fire-engine , for which they obtained a 
 patent in 1705. By its aid the mines were deepened, and new sources of 
 wealth made accessible ; but the engine was necessarily both clumsy and 
 
lii Mines. Introd. 
 
 costly, and consumed about 100 chaldrons of coal per month. In 1778 
 this engine was giving place to Watt’s, in which steam was substituted 
 for the weight of the atmosphere as the power to drive down the piston. 
 The improvement was a great one. The new engine performed more 
 work at a much less expense than one of Newcomin’s, and Watt was 
 amply remunerated for the use of his invention by one-third of the coals 
 saved by it. 3 of his engines erected in place of the same number of 
 Newcomin’s on Chacewater effected a reduction of 7200Z. in the annual 
 expenditure of the mine. From the time of Watt the Cornish pumping 
 engines have made rapid strides to that high position which they now 
 occupy among the powers of steam. Hornblower introduced double 
 cylinders, Woolf high pressure, and Trevithick boilers by which steam 
 can be used at high pressure in single cylinders. The engines are 
 now manufactured in Cornwall, and even one of the worst does the duty 
 of 4 of Watt’s. They work, with little noise, expansively at high 
 pressure, and are pre-eminent for the ease with which they drain the 
 greatest depths, and for the small relative amount of fuel consumed by 
 them, and although of colossal size and power are so admirably con- 
 structed that they may be placed under the control of a boy. The 
 interior is always handsomely fitted, and in general kept as clean and 
 well ventilated as a lady’s drawing-room. Upon the main-beam is fixed 
 a counter, which, by recording the number of vibrations made in a 
 given time, shows the amount of work or duty performed. This is 
 called reporting the engine, the result being published once a month in 
 duty-papers, a practice found advantageous as exciting emulation, for 
 since its introduction some 30 years ago the work performed by the 
 best engines has been more than trebled. The duty is ascertained by 
 finding the number of pounds weight which the engine lifts one foot 
 high by the consumption of one bushel of coals. In Austen’s engine, 
 on the Fowey Consols, it amounted one year to more than 87 
 millions. The beam of the engine is connected with a rod which 
 descends through a chain of pumps to the sump, or bottom of the 
 mine, where the water collects, and from this well a certain quantity 
 of the water is raised to the surface, and the rest to the adit, down 
 which it flows by a gentle descent to a neighbouring valley. In 
 some cases, however, from the level though elevated character of 
 the district, these subterranean channels are extended to a consider- 
 able distance ; and the Great Adit, which drains many of the prin- 
 cipal mines in the parishes of Gwennap and Redruth, is calculated, 
 with its ramifications, to be nearly 30 m. in length. The quantity of 
 water discharged from a single mine occasionally amounts to upwards 
 of 1600 gallons in a minute, and 37 millions of tons have been pumped 
 from the earth by about 60 engines in the course of the year. Some 
 idea of these wonderful machines may be derived from the following 
 statement. Davey’s engine on the Consolidated Mines, Gwennap, 
 pumps directly from a depth of 1600 ft. ; the pumping rod is 1740 ft. 
 long, or, in other words, the third of a mile in length, and lifts at 
 every stroke 33i gallons of water to the adit level, and 45 gallons more 
 
Mines. 
 
 In trod. 
 
 liii 
 
 to the surface, the weight of the pit-work in the shaft being upwards 
 of 500 tons, and its cost for materials alone 5236Z. 
 
 § XXIX. The traveller who is desirous of descending a mine must lay 
 aside every article of his ordinary dress, and array himself in the cos- 
 tume of a miner, — a flannel shirt and trowsers, worn close to the skin in 
 order to absorb the perspiration, a strong pair of shoes, a linen cap, and 
 a stout broad-brimmed hat, intended to serve the purpose of a helmet 
 in warding off blows from the rock. He then has a candle fixed to his 
 hat by a lump of clay, and is equipped for the adventure. The descent 
 offers little difficulty, as the ladders are generally inclined, and stages 
 occur at intervals of about three fathoms. But the ascent from these 
 deep and melancholy vaults entails of course considerable exertion. 
 The stranger will, however, find little’ in the interior of a mine to 
 gratify curiosity ; for although the levels and their ramifications extend 
 in general many miles, and hundreds of men are busily working in 
 them at the same time, there are no crystalline chambers glittering 
 with ore, nor crowds of miners grim as the Cyclops, nor caverns lighted 
 by a number of torches and echoing the thunder of explosions and the 
 rending of rocks. On the descent the working of the pump-rods and 
 occasional rattle of the metallic buckets against the side of the shaft 
 produce a certain amount of noise, but the levels are as silent as the 
 grave, and sometimes so low and narrow as to admit the passage of one 
 person only at a time, and that in a stooping posture. The miner, too, 
 like the mole, is solitary in his operations, and is often discovered alone 
 at the end of a gallery, in a damp and confined space, boring the solid 
 rock, or breaking down the ore, by the feeble light of a candle. 
 
 The most interesting mines for the traveller to descend are' those 
 near the Land’s End, which penetrate beneath the sea ; for in these, 
 when the coast is lashed by a swell from the Atlantic, an accompani- 
 ment that is seldom wanting, he may hear in the levels the harsh 
 grating of rocks rolling to and fro overhead in the bed of the sea, and 
 the reverberation of the breaking waves ; but the enjoyment of such 
 sublime but portentous sounds will require strength of nerve in the 
 visitor, as the noise is often so terrific as to scare the miners from their 
 work. It is a curious circumstance that these submarine mines are in 
 general the driest in the county. 
 
 § XXX. Besides the mines, properly so called, the Cornish valleys, or 
 bottoms , contain numerous stream-vjorks which produce a quantity of tin. 
 Some of this, called grain-tin , is of great purity, and exclusively used by 
 the dyer. A few of these works are very ancient, and it is supposed 
 that all the tin of former days was procured by streaming. They derive 
 their name from the manner in which they are worked, which consists 
 in merely washing the alluvial soil by directing a stream of water over 
 it, when the earthy particles are carried away, and the tin-ore procured 
 in a separate form. Their condition or value is significantly denoted 
 by the technical expressions of the miner, — a living stream , just alive , 
 and dead . The principal stream-works are situated on and near the 
 S. coast of Cornwall, and the greater number in the parishes of St. 
 
 \Dexi. fy Corn.'] d 
 
liv 
 
 Mines , 
 
 Introd. 
 
 Austell and Luxulian. The valleys of Dartmoor, although long deserted 
 by the miner, are everywhere scored by the remains of ancient stream- 
 works. 
 
 § XXXI. The miners are divided into two great classes — underground 
 and surface men , the former being three times as numerous as the latter. 
 The underground-men are divided into tutmen and tributers. Tutmen 
 sink the shafts and drive the levels and adits, executing their work by 
 the piece, which is generally calculated by the fathom, and earning on 
 an average from 40s. to 50 s. a month. Tributers find the ore and raise 
 it to the surface. A party of these men, however numerous, under- 
 taking the excavation of a particular portion of the vein, is denomi- 
 nated a pair . This pair is subdivided into three gangs, which, by 
 relieving each other at the end of every spell of 8 hours, keep up 
 the work uninterruptedly, except on a Sunday. The expense of 
 sinking shafts and cutting adits is defrayed by the adventurers ; 
 but the working of a limited part of the lode, called a pitch , is 
 let by auction on setting-days , and is taken by the miners for two 
 months at a time on tribute , that is, on an agreement to find their 
 own tools, candles, and powder — a certain sum being advanced to them, 
 called ’ sist money — and to open the vein and raise the ore, on condition 
 of receiving a proportion of the proceeds, the amount of their gains being 
 determined by the value of the ore when ready for market, and varying 
 from 6c?. to 13s. 4 d. in the pound, according to the richness of the lode. 
 Thus the tributers are adventurers, and the fascination of enterprise 
 induces them, not only to tolerate, but to enter with ardour into their 
 unhealthy occupation. The surface-men attend to the machinery and 
 prepare the ore for market, many of the operations being performed by 
 girls and women, whose gay and varied dresses and garrulous tongues 
 enliven these dreary scenes of labour. On a rough calculation, the 
 number of persons directly employed in the mines of Devon and Corn- 
 wall may be estimated at 30,000. 
 
 As soon as the tin-ore is brought to the surface it is spalled , or 
 broken into smaller fragments, and then pounded in the stamping-mill , 
 for the purpose of separating the oxide from the hard matrix through 
 which it is disseminated. The stamping-mill consists of a number of 
 lifters , or piles of wood shod with heavy masses of iron, which are 
 raised and dropped by cams arranged on a barrel or shaft, moved by 
 a water-wheel or a steam-engine. These lifters pound or stamp 
 the ore small enough to pass the holes of an iron grate, through 
 which it is carried by a stream of water into a series of pits, in 
 which the particles are deposited according to their specific gravity. 
 The richer and heavier portions, called the crop or head , collect 
 in the first pit, and the slime or tail in the others. The crop-ores 
 are then taken to the buddle, a pit in which they are arranged on 
 an inclined wooden frame called the jagging-board , from which they 
 are again washed by a run of water and separated into three or 
 four parcels of different value. The head or crop of these deposits is 
 next thrown into the heeve^ a large vat containing water, and further 
 
IntrocL 
 
 Mines. 
 
 lv 
 
 purified by an operation called tozing or tossing. This consists 
 in stirring the water round by means of a small shovel, with such 
 rapidity as to bring the tin-stuff into a state of suspension, when the 
 tozer relaxes his efforts, and by frequently striking the keeve with a 
 mallet, the tin, from its greater weight, sinks to the bottom, or is 
 packed, while the earth and other impurities circle at the top, and can 
 be separated. The deposit in the keeve is divided into two or three 
 parts, the lowest of which is fit either for smelting , or, if associated with 
 mundic , a name the miners have given to arsenical and iron pyrites, for 
 roasting in the burning-house. This is a reverberatory furnace fed with 
 coal, but previous to the beginning of the 18th centy. the dressed 
 tin-stone was carried for smelting direct to a blast furnace, supplied 
 either with turf or charcoal. It was called the blowing-house, and 
 was commonly burnt at the end of every 7 or 8 years for the 
 sake of the tin which had been carried up the chimney, and had 
 collected in the thatch of the roof. After roasting, the crop-ores 
 are again buddled, tossed, and packed, until fit for smelting. The 
 various portions separated from the crop-ores, and which come under 
 the heads of creases, skimpings, and leavings, are subjected to a number 
 of similar operations, namely, sifting, dilluing, tying, jigging, trunking , 
 and framing, all of which are conducted with the object of arranging 
 the particles of ore according to their specific gravity and relative value 
 by the aid of water, and are highly interesting on account of the 
 dexterity exhibited in their performance. The tin-ore thus prepared is 
 called black tin, and is ready for sale. It contains 75 per cent, of 
 metal ; but when first brought to the surface it has frequently no more 
 than 2 per cent, in it. The mode of dressing copper-ore is, in many of 
 the operations, similar to that of tin. The ore is first broken up with 
 hammers, and the best part or prills divided into fragments about the 
 size of a walnut, by girls called cobbers, or crushed separately by 
 cast-iron rollers. The second sort, the dredge ore, is crushed, and then 
 treated in a sieve, called the jigging machine, which is jerked up and 
 down in a keeve or hutch of water. The poorest, termed halvans, 
 is either stamped, like the tin ore, or crushed, and then concentrated 
 with the poorer parts and and leavings of the former classes, in buddies , 
 either rectangular or round, or strokes and tyes , according to circum- 
 stances ; whilst the slime, or that which has been reduced to the state of 
 mud, is treated in trunking buddies. The various kinds, when suffi- 
 ciently clean, are arranged in heaps on the surface of the mine, and 
 weighed into doles or parcels for sale. The ores of tin and copper having 
 been thus prepared are disposed of on ticketing days, or periodical sales, 
 which are held twice a month at Redruth or Treloweth for tin, and 
 weekly .at Truro, Redruth, or Pool, for copper. The agents for the 
 companies who purchase the ores, having previously taken samples of 
 the different lots and assayed them, meet the mining agents at a dinner 
 provided at the expense of the mines engaged in the transaction, and 
 deliver sealed tickets containing the prices which each offers for the 
 various parcels. These tickets are then opened and read aloud, and the 
 
 d 2 
 
lvi 
 
 Mines . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 highest bidders are pronounced the purchasers. The business is speedily 
 transacted, and ores to the amount of several thousand pounds change 
 hands in an hour or two. The merchants are at the cost of reducing 
 the ores to metal by the operation of smelting . For this purpose the 
 copper ore is shipped to Swansea, but the tin ore is smelted in the 
 county. The stranger may therefore witness the entire series of opera- 
 tions to which the latter mineral is subjected, and, as an appropriate 
 conclusion to his investigation, regale himself with a noted, though 
 unpretending Cornish dainty — a beefsteak broiled on a block of the 
 glowing metal which has just issued from the furnace. Previous to 
 the year 1838, the white tin was cast in large blocks, for the purpose of 
 being coined and stamped by the Duchy authorities. With that object 
 these blocks were sent to one of the coinage toivns , where the corner of 
 each was struck off, and assayed by officers appointed for that duty. If 
 the tin was found of a proper quality, the dues were paid, and the 
 blocks, being stamped with the seal of the Duchy, were so rendered 
 saleable. 
 
 The business of a mine is generally managed by a •purser , and the 
 working of the concern by an agent called a captain , who in a large adven- 
 ture, has other persons under him styled grass captains and underground 
 captains; the former superintending the operations on the surface, such 
 as the dressing of the ore ; the latter having the immediate inspection 
 of the works underground, and attending to the timbering of the lode, and 
 the pumps. The miners are an intelligent body of men, their wits being 
 sharpened by the system of tribute- work, which renders their gain in a 
 measure dependent upon habits of observation. They are athletic and 
 good-looking, but certainly are not beheld to advantage when emerging 
 from the dark scenes of their labour, begrimed with soot, and red with 
 the ferruginous soil. Too often, also, may be observed in them the 
 fatal mark of pulmonary consumption, which above all others may be 
 called the miners’ disease. Of late years, however, the comforts of 
 these men have been more attended to than formerly, and their con- 
 dition much ameliorated b}^ the humane exertions of individuals. Mr. 
 Pendarves, for so many years a representative of Cornwall, and who 
 might justly be styled the good genius of that county for the many 
 benefits he conferred upon it, introduced washing-houses into all the 
 mines over which he had any control. These are supplied with hot 
 water from the engine, and situated in the immediate vicinity of the 
 shaft, and are indeed a blessing to the miner, enabling him to wash the 
 mud from his person and change his dress without the danger of a 
 sudden exposure to cold air. A century ago these men were by no 
 means remarkable for sobriety, but the preaching of Wesley effected an 
 extraordinary change in their habits ; teetotalism is now almost universal, 
 and the thirsty traveller may be inconvenienced by its necessary conse- 
 quence, a scarcity of beer in the houses of public entertainment. The 
 miner, however, cannot so readily divest himself of a lingering super- 
 stition fostered by his occupation : he often hears the Pixies or “small 
 men ” sporting in the levels, he carefully abstains from whistling when 
 
IntrocL Mines . Ivii 
 
 underground, and is a firm believer in the efficacy of the Virgula 
 Divinatoria or Divining Bod. The magical rod consists merely of 
 a forked stick of willow or hazel, which is to be held in a particular 
 manner, when it is firmly believed to possess the property of bending 
 towards the earth, and of pointing out the invisible course of a 
 mineral vein or lode. Sixty years ago the efficacy of this wand was 
 unquestioned ; and Pryce, a scientific and experienced miner, has re- 
 corded his inflexible belief in its extraordinary virtues, and in his 
 ‘ Mineralogia Cornubiensis’ has left us full directions for its construction 
 and use. 
 
 The miners distinguish various mineral substances by technical 
 names, many of which, like the prefix of huel , a hole , are old Cornish 
 words. Thus, rocks with a slaty cleavage are known as Milas; 
 porphyry is called elvan ; disintegrated granite, growan ; a decomposed 
 killas, flukan ; quartz, 'in the western parts of Cornwall, spar ; sul- 
 phuret of zinc, Black Jack ; a brown earthy substance, composed of 
 oxide of iron mixed with argillaceous and other particles, and regarded 
 as an indication of a rich copper vein, gossan ; a matrix of copper-ore 
 compounded of mixed argillaceous and siliceous substances, caple ; 
 whilst iron and arsenical pyrites, which often accompany a lode of 
 copper, are confounded under the name of mundic . Gossan lies on the 
 hack of the vein, and frequently reaches so near to the surface as to be 
 exposed by ploughing, and in this way many of the lodes have been 
 discovered in Cornwall. 
 
 With respect to the articles required in working a mine, the con- 
 sumption of timber, candles, gunpowder, &c., in a large concern, far 
 exceeds any estimate that a person unacquainted with mining 'matters 
 could imagine. The following statement of the average monthly con- 
 sumption (year 1847) in the tin-mine of Ballesividden , St. Just, will, 
 however, give the reader definite notions on the subject : — 
 
 Powder, 4208 lbs. 
 
 Fuze coils, 640 lbs. 
 
 Candles, 289 cwt. 
 
 Coals, 170 tons. 
 
 Oil, 30 gals. 
 
 Tallow and grease, 4 cwt. 1 qr. 
 14 lbs. 
 
 Timber, 2000 ft. 
 
 Iron castings, 4 tons, 8 cwt. 2 qrs. 
 14 lbs. 
 
 Hails, 5£ cwt. 
 
 Steel, &c., 3 cwt. 1 qr. 4 lbs. 
 Wrought and bar iron, 49 cwt. 
 0 qr. 24 lbs. 
 
 In the same year the number of persons employed in this adventure 
 was 362 men and boys underground, 231 men and boys and 49 girls on 
 the surface ; and the average monthly expenditure in wages (for labour 
 only) amounted to 1575 1. 8s. 2 d. But Balleswidden, although an 
 important undertaking, cannot be compared with the Consolidated 
 Mines in Gwennap, the largest of the Cornish group. This wonderful 
 work, though now (1872) in abeyance, is nearly 2 m. long, and 
 was conducted as one concern, employing upwards of 3000 persons, 
 and yielding copper and tin from a depth equal to five times the height 
 
lviii 
 
 Fisheries . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 of St. Paul’s. In 1836 it produced ore of the value of 145,717?. Is. Id ., 
 on which the lord’s dues were 607 11. 10s. 6c?. The total expenses for 
 the year amounted to 102,007?. 12s. lc?. 
 
 Fisheries. 
 
 § XXXII. The fisheries of Cornwall and Devon deserve the atten- 
 tion of the traveller as the most important on our S.W. coasts, 
 the seine-fisliing of St. Ives and the trawling of Torbay being 
 respectively characteristic of the two counties. Torbay has long 
 supplied London with a quantity of very excellent fish, such 
 as turbots, mullets, soles, and dories. Plymouth and Clovelly 
 are both well known as fishing stations ; but the towns of the 
 W. and S. coasts of Cornwall, St. Ives, Penzance, Mevagissey, and 
 others, possess a more novel and lively interest as the stations of the 
 pilchard fishery , a fishery so remarkable for the scale of its operations, 
 and for the science and enterprise shown in its pursuit. Among all the 
 fishers of our southern coasts, the Cornish are considered the most 
 hardy and adventurous, being at sea nearly the whole year round in 
 their arduous occupation, and competing with the Irish on their shores 
 during the herring season. Three kinds of fishing are pursued on the 
 Cornish coasts : the drift-net , the seine, and the hook-and-line fishing ; 
 mackerel and pilchards are the objects of the first, pilchards alone of the 
 second ; and hake, cod, ling, and whiting of the third ; a distinct set of 
 boats being required for each. The drift-net and seine-fishing are, 
 however, the grand operations, and in these the annual routine of the 
 fisherman is as follows. He commences about the end of January with 
 the early mackerel fishing , off Plymouth. This lasts about six weeks ; 
 but the Cornishman follows the shoals in a westerly direction for some 
 time longer. About the middle of June he sails for the X. coast of 
 Ireland, and there engages in the capture of the herring, returning to 
 Cornwall about the end of July, but in time for the commencement of the 
 summer pilchard season . This being concluded, he overhauls his boat for 
 the autumnal mackerel fishery , which is at its height in October ; and, 
 lastly, towards the end of October, he engages in the winter pilchard 
 fishery , which sometimes continues through the following month to 
 December. Of all these various fisheries, that of the pilchard is the 
 most calculated to afford entertainment to the stranger. Its operations 
 are conducted on the largest scale, and interests of such magnitude are 
 staked on its success, that it is associated with the mines in the whim- 
 sical toast of “ tin and fish.” It is exclusively pursued on the shores 
 of Cornwall and the S.W. of Devon, and is so curious in its details as 
 to merit a full description. 
 
 The pilchard belongs to the genus Clupea , and is a sociable, migratory 
 fish, so closely resembling the herring in size and form as to have been 
 called the gipsy herring , but differing from it in some essential par- 
 ticulars. “ It is a smaller and less compressed fish, and has larger 
 scales, and the dorsal fin placed exactly in the centre of gravity, so that 
 
Introd. 
 
 Fisheries . 
 
 lix 
 
 it will balance when suspended by this fin, whereas the herring, when 
 so tried, will dip towards the head.” Pilchards derive their principal 
 interest from that instinct which annually induces them to assemble in 
 millions, and to perform a stately march through the sea, generally in 
 the same direction, and within certain determinate limits. They were 
 formerly believed to migrate from the polar regions, and to return to 
 those icy quarters at the end of the season ; but Mr. Couch, the author 
 of 4 The Fauna of Cornwall,’ to whom the reader is indebted for many 
 of the following particulars (see a paper by Mr. Couch, in the 4 Report 
 of the Penzance Nat. Hist, and Antiq. Soc.’ for 1847), has ascertained 
 that they remain in small numbers on the coast of Cornwall throughout 
 the year, and that the main body retires for the winter into deep water 
 to the westward of the islands of Seilly, and confines its migrations to 
 an area of sea which would be bounded by a line drawn from the Start 
 Point along the northern side of the Bay of Biscay, then northwards 
 through the Atlantic W. of Seilly, then in an easterly direction along 
 the S. coast of Ireland, and lastly in a southerly direction on the W. 
 side of Lundy Island to the N. coast of Cornwall ; although a few pil- 
 chards are occasionally found beyond these limits, and, indeed, in the 
 English Channel as far east as Brighton and Dover. 
 
 About the middle of the spring these fish feel a desire for com- 
 panionship and change of scene. They rise from the depths of the 
 ocean and consort together in small shoals, which, as the season ad- 
 vances, unite into larger ones, and towards the end of July, or beginning 
 of August, combine in one mighty host, which, under the guidance of 
 the Pilchard King and the most powerful of the tribe (see Mr. Couch’s 
 memoir), begins that extraordinary migration which is the object of 
 the Cornish fishery. Pursued by predaceous hordes of dog-fish, hake, 
 and cod, and greedy flocks of sea-birds, they advance towards the land 
 in such amazing numbers as actually to impede the passage of vessels, 
 and to discolour the water as far as the eye can reach. They strike the 
 land generally to the N. of Cape Cornwall, where a detachment turns 
 to the N.E. and constitutes the summer fishery of St. Ives , but the 
 bulk of the fish passes between Seilly and the Land’s End, and entering 
 the British Channel follows the windings of the shore as far as Bigbury 
 Bay and the Start Point. Their course, however, is often changed by 
 the currents or the state of the weather, and of a sudden they will 
 vanish from the view, and then again approach the coast in such com- 
 pact order and overwhelming force, that numbers will be pushed ashore 
 by the moving hosts in the rear (Mr. Couch). The spectacle of the 
 great fish army passing the Land’s End is described as one of the most 
 interesting that it is possible to imagine. In the beginning of October 
 the north coasters and winter fish , as they are called, make their appear- 
 ance on the N.E. of Cornwall, and in such force that 12 millions have 
 been captured in a single dajr. They arrive at St. Ives about the third 
 week of October, pass thence round Cape Cornwall and the Land’s End, 
 and occasionally follow in the track of the summer fish along the shore 
 of the English Channel. 
 
lx 
 
 Fisheries . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 The fishery is pursued both by day and by night, but by different 
 methods. Between sunrise and sunset the capture is effected inshore 
 by the seine ; between sunset and sunrise some miles from the land by 
 the drift-net . The latter mode of fishing is principally pursued in the 
 Mount’s Bay, the former at St. Ives. In drift-net fishing a string of 
 nets is stretched like a wall through the sea, very often for the length 
 of £ of a mile, and a depth of 30 ft., and allowed to drift with the tide, 
 so as to intercept the pilchards as they swim and entangle them by the 
 gills. In this manner as many as 50,000 fish are commonly taken by a 
 driving-boat in a single night. The chief obstacles to this kind of 
 fishing are the light of the moon and the phosphorescence of the water. 
 The latter enables the fisherman to see his net to its full depth “ like a 
 brilliant lace-work of fire,” and the splendid display very naturally 
 alarms the fish, which diverge to the rt. or 1. and thus avoid the snare. 
 The principal entertainment afforded by the drift fishery to the stranger 
 is the daily recurring spectacle of the little fleet on the wing, its red 
 sails all a-flame in the beams of a setting sun. 
 
 The seine-fishing possesses a more general interest, and, as by this 
 method the fish are enclosed in shoals, it takes precedence of the other 
 as the grand operation in the fishery. The boats which are employed 
 in it are three in number ; the seine-boat , carrying the great net or seine; 
 the volyer or follower , in which the thwart or stop net is stowed ; and a 
 smaller boat called the lurlcer , under the guidance of the master seiner , 
 whose duty it is to keep a wary eye upon the movements of the fish. 
 When the season has arrived, and the gathering of gulls and other sea- 
 birds gives warning of the approach of the pilchards, look-out men 
 called huers ( liner , French verb, to shout ) are stationed on the cliffs, 
 who watch the sea for the red tinge which indicates the presence of a 
 shoal. No sooner is this descried than they announce the welcome 
 intelligence by shouting heva , heva , heval ( < found !) a cry which is 
 instantly responded to by the inhabitants rushing from their houses, 
 and the boats flying from the shore in pursuit. All is now hurry and 
 excitement. The rowers use their utmost exertions, the liuer directing 
 their course by signals with a furze-bush. In a few minutes they reach 
 the indicated spot, when the great seine, which is usually 160 fath. in 
 length by 8 or 12 in depth, is cast into the sea by three men as the 
 boat is gently rowed round the shoal, and with such dexterity that the 
 whole of this ehormous net is often shot in less than 5 min. The volyer 
 has meanwhile kept the net taut at the other end, and no sooner is it 
 fairly in the sea than the extremities are warped towards each other, 
 and the lurker takes its station in the opening, so as to drive back the 
 fish from the only aperture by which they can escape. When the ends 
 are in contact the thwart-net is dropped across, and the seine, being 
 cautiously raised, is quickly tacked together, and if the bottom be free 
 of rocks, and the water not too deep, the capture is then securely effected, 
 and the men proceed at their leisure to calculate the number of their 
 prisoners, and to secure the net in its position by carrying out grapnels 
 on every side, or, where the shore is sandy and shelving, with the 
 
Introd. Fisheries. Ixi 
 
 assistance of some extra hands called blowsers , to draw the seine into 
 shallow water. At low tide another party of men, termed regular 
 seiners, proceed to the next operation, which is the most interesting to the 
 stranger, and is called tucking . It consists in removing the fish from 
 the seine into a smaller net, called the tuck-net , and in lifting them by 
 flaskets from the tuck-net into boats which carry them to the shore. 
 This is a tedious process, occasionally occupying nearly a week when 4 
 or 5 millions of fish are enclosed in the seine; for they are not taken 
 faster from the preserve than they can be salted. As calm weather is 
 essential for its performance, and as it generally happens on a serene 
 evening or by moonlight, the sight it affords is so extremely beautiful, 
 that no opportunity of witnessing it should be neglected. 
 
 The pilchards having been brought to the shore are wheeled in bar- 
 rows or carried in cowels to the cellars to be cured , which is performed 
 by girls and women, who heap them edgewise in broad piles — in bulk , as 
 it is called — and sprinkle each tier of fish as it is completed with bay 
 salt. They now resemble a series of sandwiches of salt and pilchards, 
 and are allowed to remain undisturbed about 6 weeks, a quantity 
 of oil and dirty pickle draining from them during the process. This, 
 from the inclination of rhe floor, finds its way to a well, and is after- 
 wards sold to the currier. The fish are next taken from the bulk, and 
 thoroughly washed and cleansed from the filth and coagulated oil 
 which, rising as a scum to the surface, is collected under the name of 
 garbage, and disposed of to the soap-boiler. They are then packed in 
 hogsheads, each containing about 2400 fish, and pressed together for 
 the purpose of squeezing out the oil, which amounts to about 3 gallons 
 a hogshead in the summer, and 2 gallons in the winter, and is an im- 
 portant item in the produce of the fishery. The casks, being then 
 headed up, are ready for exportation, and are principally shipped to 
 Naples and other Italian ports, and hence the toast of the fisherman, 
 “ Long life to the Pope and death to thousands.” Many pilchards also find 
 their way into Spain, and there, says old Fuller, “under the name of 
 fumadoes [Anglice 4 Fair Maids ’], with oyle and a lemon, they are meat 
 for the mightiest Don.” The broken and refuse fish, and those suffocated 
 in the nets, are sold for manure, and when mixed with the calcareous 
 sand of the beach are used throughout Cornwall with very excellent 
 effect. 
 
 It is considered that the pilchard fishery gives employment to about 
 10,000 persons, and that a capital of 250,000?. is engaged in it. The 
 yearly produce averages from 20,000 to 30,000 hogsheads, of which 
 about 6000 are retained for home consumption. In 1847, however, the 
 success was unusually great, and the exports amounted to 40,883 hogs- 
 heads, containing a quantity of fish which it has been calculated would 
 form a band 6 deep round the world. In 1846, 75 millions of pilchards 
 were enclosed by the seines of St. Ives in a single day ; and in 1836 a 
 shoal extended in a compact body from Fowey to the Land’s End, a dis- 
 tance of at least 100 m., if we take into consideration the windings of 
 the shore (Mr. Couch). The expense of the St. Ives fishery, supposing 
 
 d 3 
 
lxii The Traveller's General View. Introd. 
 
 no fisli to be taken, amounts to 10,000Z. a year. The price in the fo- 
 reign trade averages 50 s. a hogshead for summer fish, and something 
 less for winter fish. The profits in drift-fishing are divided into 
 8 shares ; 1 for the boat, 3 for the nets, and 4 for the men. In seine- 
 fishing the persons employed are commonly paid fixed wages, but have 
 also a small percentage on the captured fish. The wages may be 
 stated as follows : — 
 
 Huer 21s. per week. 
 
 Master seiner 12s. ,, 
 
 Seine shooters 12s. ,, 
 
 Kegular seiners 10s. „ 
 
 Ordinary men 10s. „ 
 
 Salters (girls and women) 3d. per hour. 
 
 Pilchards constitute an important article of food to the poorer classes 
 of Cornishmen, and in a successful season are retailed near the coast at 
 the rate of 12 for a penny. 
 
 Fly-fishing for salmon, peal, and trout (the last of which are provin- 
 cially called shots, from their rapid motion through the water) is eagerly 
 pursued on all the brooks and rivers of these counties. Mr. Bellamy, in 
 his 4 Guide to the Fishmarket,’ enumerates the Fed Palmer, the Blue 
 Palmer, the Woodcock's Feather, the Partridge's Feather, and (in very 
 hot weather) the Black Fly, as the flies commonly used in the Devon- 
 shire rivers. 
 
 The Traveller’s General View. 
 
 § XXXIII. If the traveller could obtain a bird’s-eye view over 
 the three western counties of England, he would behold in Corn- 
 wall and Devon a surface of accumulated hills, rising in certain 
 districts to a considerable elevation, and in {Somerset branching 
 into distinct ranges bounding intermediate plains. Nature has 
 therefore in this part of the kingdom laid the groundwork of great 
 scenic beauty, which she has further developed by protruding the 
 rocky strata through the surface, and by girding the favoured land 
 with a magnificent array of cliffs, and an ocean which is in sight 
 from most of the eminences. In Devon the mode of cultivating the 
 ground is in harmony with this picturesque disposition of the sur- 
 face ; while the barren and elevated moors, having hitherto been left 
 intact, delight the eye by wild and imposing prospects. But no sooner 
 has the traveller passed the Cornish boundary of the Tamar than a 
 change comes over the scene. The hills which have hitherto delighted 
 him are now patched with fields, but otherwise as bald and uniform as 
 the ocean waves which they resemble in their undulations, while they 
 are everywhere disfigured by stone hedges disposed along them in 
 straight lines with the utmost exactitude. A great part of the barren 
 country has been stripped of the rocks which once imparted interest to 
 the scenery, and the mining districts are rendered hideous by unsightly 
 
Introd. 
 
 The Traveller's General View. 
 
 lxiii 
 
 erections and heaps of rubbish so impregnated with mineral matter that 
 not a blade of grass will vegetate upon them. Striking, however, as is 
 the contrast between Devon and the inland parts of Cornwall, the shores 
 of the latter county present the most beautiful scenes, and the banks of 
 the rivers, and the deep valleys or bottoms with which the county is 
 furrowed, are in general well wooded and picturesque. To Devonshire, 
 however, has nature very classically given the apple, for she is pre- 
 eminently the beauty of the western counties. The district derives its 
 name from the innumerable heights and hollows diversifying the surface, 
 and to the embellishment of which the soil and the climate, and even 
 the labour of man, have contributed. The lanes are steep and narrow, 
 and bordered by tangled hedges, often thirty feet above the road, 
 sheltering even the hills from the rigour of unfriendly blasts. In the 
 deep shadowy combes the villages lie nestled, with roseate walls of clay 
 and roofs of thatch, and seldom far from one of those crystal streams 
 which enliven every valley of this rocky county. Even the cliffs of the 
 coast are festooned with creepers, while old weather-worn limekilns 
 crown them like castles, and woods descend to the very brink of the 
 sea. For those who relish less cultivated scenes, Dartmoor presents a 
 waste of rock-capped heights and dark morasses, truly forlorn and 
 wild. But the tints of the moor are of surpassing beauty, the air most 
 exhilarating, and the grandeur of its lonely hills calculated to impress 
 the most apathetic tourist. 
 
 § XXXIV. The finest scenery of Devonshire is to be found in 
 the north, between Lynton and Ilfracombe, where the offshoots 
 of Exmoor abut upon the sea, or are based in woods and subalpine 
 ravines ; and on the skirts of Dartmoor, which on every side 
 are pierced by deep romantic glens, leading to a desolation, but 
 clothed themselves with golden gorse and oaks. The rivers Teign, 
 Dart, Plym, Tavy, Erme, and Okement flow from the moor 
 through valleys of this description. With respect to the coast, those 
 portions of it most worthy the traveller’s attention are the greensand 
 and red sandstone cliffs, ranging at elevations of 400 ft. and 500 ft. 
 between Beaton and Sidmouth ; the mica-slate rocks between the Start 
 Point and Bolt Tail ; the romantic grauwacke shore of Bigbury Bay ; 
 the carbonaceous wooded slopes of Clovelly ; and the grauwacke cliffs of 
 Ilfracombe, Combe Martin, and Lynton. 
 
 The South Hams , a district bounded by the rivers Tamar and Teign, 
 Dartmoor, and the Channel, is called the garden of Devonshire, from its 
 fertility, and contains numerous orchards, which annually supply large 
 quantities of cider , the average being 10 hogsheads, per acre. This 
 beverage is prepared in the following manner. The apples, when 
 gathered, are exposed in the open air for two or three weeks until the 
 broivn rot has begun, when they are ground to cheese in a mill, and in 
 this broken state heaped up with straw under the press. A lever is then 
 applied, and in about two days the juice, or must, is expressed. The 
 must is kept in large open vessels until the head rises, when it is drawn 
 off into casks. It is then frequently racked until the tendency to fen* 
 
lxiv The Traveller's General Vievi. Introd* 
 
 mentation is removed. The place of manufacture is provincially called 
 the Poundhouse . In this part of Devon the valleys are very warm 
 during the summer ; but the visitor may, with little difficulty, refresh 
 himself by agreeable changes both of scene and climate. From the 
 cliffs of the coast, when requiring relief from the glare of sun and water, 
 he can hasten to the skirts of the moor, there to wander through shady 
 dells, amid mossy rocks and mossy trees, or along the banks of pellucid 
 streams ; or he may explore labyrinthine lanes, and amuse himself with 
 trout-fishing, or by sketching the weather-worn cottages of granite, 
 slate, or cob ; or, if desirous of more invigorating exercise, he may 
 ascend into Dartmoor, and there brace his sinews in the healthful moun- 
 tain air, and delight his soul by grand misty views over those lonely 
 hills. The Devonshire cottage is truly said, by Mrs. Bray, to be “ the 
 sweetest object that the poet, the artist, or the lover of the romantic, 
 could desire to see.” The roof is universally of thatch, and the walls 
 generally of cob , which is a concrete of mud and pebbles, very warm, 
 and, if kept dry at top and bottom, very durable. A local aphorism 
 says, “ good cob, a good hat and shoes and a good heart last for ever.” 
 Both Devonshire and Cornwall are known for their clouted cream , their 
 junkets and squab-pie , though according to an old authority the dainty 
 dish is more properly Cornubian, the spicy liquor Devonian ; for 
 
 “ Cornwall squab-pie, and Devon white-pot brings,” 
 
 is the enunciation of King in his ‘Art of Cookery.’ Junket (excel- 
 lent, when well made; — all visitors should make a point of tasting 
 it) is a mixture of cream, rennet, spice, and spirits ; squab-pie a 
 savoury compound of mutton steaks, onions, and sliced pippins, ar- 
 ranged under the crust in alternate layers, and “ adjusted,” says Mrs. 
 Glasse, “ in the most orderly manner.” Clouted cream (the merits of 
 which need not be enlarged upon) is thus prepared. The milk is 
 strained into shallow pans, each containing about half a pint of water 
 to prevent the milk adhering. In these it is allowed to remain undis- 
 turbed for 12 or 24 hours, according to the weather. It is then 
 scalded by a wood fire or the warm bath. In the former case it is 
 moved slowly towards the fire, so as to become gradually heated, and 
 in about 40 or 50 minutes the cream is formed. This is indicated by 
 bubbles, and takes place at a temp, of 180° Fahr. The milk is then 
 removed from the fire, and skimmed from 12 to 36 hours afterwards. 
 
 The Cornish excel in cooking potatoes, which form a part of the 
 usual breakfast of all classes. Pies and pasties are, however, the strong 
 points of the Cornish cuisine, and the materials are often sufficiently 
 incongruous, as is testified by the local proverb, “ The ‘ good man ’ 
 never comes into Cornwall, for fear they’d put him in a pie.” The 
 chief are conger pasty ; star-gazy pie , made of pilchards with their 
 heads centred in the outside crust ; leeky pie , of green tops of leeks, 
 slices of bacon, and scalded cream ; squab-pie ; crocky stew , something 
 like Irish stew, but instead of potatoes having slices of a batter pudding, 
 and served in a tall metal dish like a souffle-pan, but of less diameter ; 
 
Xntrod. The Travellers General View . IxV 
 
 and veal and parsley pie, containing veal, chopped parsley, and cream ; 
 a more questionable Cornish dainty is larnby pie, made of any animal 
 that has died a natural death, with which may be matched muggety 
 pie, “ composed,” says our authority, “ of sheep’s entrails, parsley, and 
 clams, seasoned with pepper and salt.” (J. 0. Ealliwell, ‘ W estern 
 Cornwall,’ p. 39). The pasty of the Cornish labourer might be copied 
 with advantage elsewhere. It consists of potatoes, with a little meat 
 salt, and pepper, in a turn-over crust. It is easy and clean to carry 
 and if you are hungry and the pasty is hot, it is a feast for a king. 
 “ Metheglin ” (wine made from honey), the “ mead ” of Saxondom, 
 is still to be found in the old farmhouses of both Cornwall and 
 Devon. 
 
 § XXXV. With respect to Cornish scenery, there are parts of the 
 coast which are unrivalled by any similar scenes in England. These 
 are the slate cliffs between Boscastle and Tintagel, the serpentine 
 rocks of the Lizard, dyed in the colours of the rainbow, and that 
 magnificent barrier of granite precipices between the Logan Lock 
 and Land’s End. The cliff scenery of the latter is the finest in 
 England; and the huge frame of this astonishing rampart, and 
 the hardness of the material, might be regarded as a special 
 provision against the stormy seas which, by the prevailing winds, 
 are particularly directed upon this part of the shore ; but the fact 
 is, no doubt, that “all less impediments have been long since 
 surmounted and washed away.” The caverns in these cliffs of 
 serpentine and granite should be explored. In the former rock they 
 are remarkable for their varied and beautiful colouring ; in the latter, 
 for their cylindrical shapes, and the extreme smoothness and polish of 
 their walls, the surfaces of which are sometimes without a single frac- 
 ture. These caverns retain their old Cornish names of hugo in the 
 Lizard district and zawn in that of the Land’s End. Every part of the 
 coast is indented by secluded and romantic coves, provincially called 
 porths, which, on the N. coast, are fringed by beaches of shelly sand, 
 extensively used throughout the county as a top-dressing to the 
 land. During the autumn some of these coves present, at low-water, 
 very animated scenes, when a number of donkeys are busily em- 
 ployed in carrying bags of this sand to the summit of the cliffs. 
 Three of these measures constitute a seam. , 100 of which are sold to 
 the farmer for about 18s. or 20s. The bands of strata along that 
 portion of the coast which lies between Boscastle and the mouths of 
 the Taw and Torridge are so narrow and distinctly marked as to give 
 a ribboned appearance to the cliffs, and are heaved and contorted in a 
 manner which defies all description. They are also so loosely bound 
 together as to yield readily to the assaults of the sea. Here, therefore, 
 the coast presents a ruinous appearance, and huge fragments cumber the 
 shore, bearing a resemblance to enormous walls, or to the carcases of 
 ships which have been stranded and converted into stone. Five of the 
 Cornish headlands may be particularised as pre-eminent for grandeur, 
 viz. Tintagel, the Gurnard's Head, Par denick, Tol Pedn Penwith, 
 
Ixvi 
 
 The Traveller's General View. 
 
 In trod. 
 
 and Treryn Castle , the site of the Logan Rock. Three of these are 
 peninsulas connected with the coast by narrow necks of land, — a shape 
 which every projecting cliff must at one time assume, from being exposed 
 to a particular action of the sea which tends to separate it from the 
 shore ; for the waves, hurried into the recesses on either side, are 
 straitened as they advance by the converging cliffs, and ultimately 
 discharge the force of their accumulated parts at the head of the bay ; 
 and in whatever direction the waves may roll to the shore, they are de- 
 flected and ultimately driven to these points. 
 
 In exploring the Cornish coast, the traveller may perchance observe, 
 in some secluded nook among the cliffs, a solitary chough or red-legged 
 crow, a bird once so common in the county as to have been called the 
 Cornish daw, but which now is confined to the most desolate and lonely 
 retreats. It is this bird’s misfortune to be highly esteemed among 
 collectors, and for this reason a price is set upon his head, and he is 
 hunted by the peasants without mercy. His bill, feet, and legs are 
 long, like those of a jackdaw, but of a red colour, and his plumage is 
 black all over. The cormorant or shag , unlike the chough, has the good 
 fortune to be vulgar and valueless, and in a crowd of his dark -feathered 
 companions escapes the notice of the curious. He is an “ evil-looking ” 
 bird, everywhere to be seen revelling in the storm, or sunning him- 
 self on the rocks. He is strong, predaceous, and an adroit fisher, 
 and with his sooty plumage and hoarse croaking voice is in perfect 
 keeping with the wild, black cliffs he frequents. Milton has made 
 Satan personate this bird when sitting on the tree of life, devising 
 death. 
 
 If the traveller should delight in wild scenery, he will derive much 
 pleasure from an excursion across the Bodmin Moors ; for instance, a walk 
 from Liskeard, by the Jamaica Inn and Brown Willy, to Camelford. 
 The hills of these moors are lower than those of Dartmoor, but are 
 capped in the same manner by fantastic piles of granite, which in Corn- 
 wall are called earns. The slopes of these eminences are also frequently 
 strewn with detached blocks, a number of which are annually broken up 
 and removed from the surface, and applied to building purposes, or con- 
 verted into gateposts or implements of husbandry. The method of 
 splitting the moor-stone is to drive wedges into a line of holes cut or 
 pooled in the surface, at a distance of three or four inches from each 
 other, according to the size or supposed hardness of the block. The 
 valleys are filled with bogs, often of considerable depth, and sometimes 
 composed of alternate layers of peat and disintegrated granite, a struc- 
 ture showing that the channels of the streams which flow through 
 them have been periodically shifted. Some of these deposits con- 
 tain an enormous quantity of hazel leaves and branches, supposed to be 
 the remains of ancient woods, as there is a tradition that the county 
 was once covered with forests, which were cut down to supply charcoal 
 for smelting the tin-ore. This tradition is further supported by the dis- 
 covery of oaks and other trees in the tin stream- works, and on the shore 
 below high-water mark on several parts of the coast. (Some of these 
 
Xntrod. 
 
 The Traveller's General View . 
 
 Ixvii 
 
 relics may be comparatively modern : but the submarine forests, and 
 the remains of trees found in Dartmoor, belong to a remote age — the 
 age of the mammoth and the mastodon.) The peat of the moor is 
 extensively used as fuel, but the moormen of Devon and Cornwall 
 pursue a different practice in cutting it. In Cornwall they pare off 
 the surface only; in Devonshire the bog-earth — on Dartmoor called 
 vaggs — is removed to a depth of four or five feet, and the lowest part 
 is considered the best fuel. There is, however, a great difference in 
 the peats or “turf” cut upon Dartmoor. The best and closest — 
 probably the most ancient — is dug on the hills near Cranmere Pool. 
 {Some of this burns as clearly and brightly as coal. In the autumn 
 the dark herbage of these waste lands is relieved by the white feathery 
 seeds of the cotton-rush. 
 
 § XXXYI. In rambling over Cornwall the traveller may be fre- 
 quently puzzled by provincial expressions (see post). Thus, for 
 instance, he may ask of a countryman the nearest road to St. 
 Just, and be told to his surprise that he is now in St. Just, 
 although the moor bounds his view on every side. But St. Just 
 means, in Cornwall, the parish of that name : the town is distin- 
 guished as the churcli-town ; and so is the smallest village which 
 contains a church. Again, a direction to proceed to such a farmhouse, 
 and then turn to the right through the town-place , will be as Hebrew 
 to one uninitiated in the lingo of the west ; but the stranger will soon 
 learn that the town-place of a farmhouse is the open space, or farm- 
 yard, in front of it. In thus wandering through the county the foot- 
 weary pedestrian will greet with a benediction the stile which admits 
 him to the churchyard, or links the field path he may be pursuing. 
 Unlike the harassing obstruction in other parts of England, it consists 
 of bars of granite arranged like a gridiron across a pit dug in the 
 ground, and thus, offering no impediment to a man, though lame or 
 feeble, but an effectual barrier to cattle or other animals confined in 
 the fields, might be advantageously adopted by farmers throughout the 
 kingdom. 
 
 The following objects are also calculated to strike the attention by 
 their novelty, viz. : — porphyry and granite houses, stone hedges, teetotal 
 inns, and the arishmows in which the corn is so heaped in the field as 
 to be proof against rain. In Devonshire the traveller may view with 
 astonishment, and sometimes with apprehension, the crooks , which, 
 slung over a packsaddle, are so laden with furze or faggot-wood that 
 it is no easy matter to pass them in the narrow lanes. In the fields he 
 may observe the slide or sledge on its low solid wheels ; and occasionally 
 the winstow , an old method of winnowing the corn by shaking it in 
 sieves, and thus subjecting it to the action of the wind. 
 
 The untidy look of the outside of the cottages and villages is common 
 to both the “Principality” (Wales), and the “Duchy;” but although 
 the outward appearance suggests Ireland, the inside may boast of a 
 cleanliness and tidiness unsurpassed in England. The love of excite- 3 
 ment, and of preaching, or any sort of oratory, and an utter absence of 
 
Ixviii The Traveller’s General View. In trod. 
 
 method in work or business, proclaim the Welsh “ Cymry ” and the 
 “ Cerniwaith 55 of Cornwall to be of the same blood and race. 
 
 § XXXVII. The most interesting scenes and objects in the two 
 counties may be briefly enumerated as follows : — 
 
 In Devonshire : 
 
 Valley of Rocks, Lyndale, and valley of Heddon’s Mouth, near 
 Lynton. The Hobby, Clovelly, and park of Clovelly Court, near 
 Bideford. Yes Tor, and the fine moorland valleys near Okehampton . 
 Wistman’s Wood, near Two Bridges . Dartmoor, and particularly its 
 skirts on every side. Gidleigh Park, near Cliagford. The Spinsters’ 
 Rock, Fingle Bridge, and the banks of the Teign, Lustleigh Cleave, 
 Houndtor Coomb, and Becky Fall, near Moreton Hampstead. The coast 
 from Lyme Regis to Sidmouth. Chudleigh Rock. Berry Pomeroy 
 Castle, near Totnes. The Dart, from Totnes to its mouth. Dart- 
 mouth. Holne Chace, Buckland, and Heytor, near Ashburton. Ivy 
 Bridge. The coast from the Start to the Bolt Tail. Mt. Edgcumbe, 
 the Breakwater, the Royal Albert Bridge, the Tamar from Hamoaze to 
 the Weir-head, Bickleigh Vale, and the Valley of the Cad, near Ply- 
 mouth. Brent Tor, Huel Friendship, and the ravine and cascade of 
 Lidford, near Tavistock. 
 
 In Cornwall : 
 
 The coast between Treryn Castle and the Land’s End, the Logan 
 Rock, Botallack Mine, St. Michael’s Mount, and the circles and crom- 
 lechs, near Penzance. Kinance Cove, near Helston. The mining-field 
 of Bedruth. Stream-works and Carclaze tin-mine, near St. Austell. 
 The Valley of Carmeirs and Treffry Viaduct, near St. Blazey. The 
 antiquities and Cheesewring, near Liskeard. Rowtor, Brown Willy, 
 and valley of Hanter-Gantick, on the Bodmin Moors. The Delabole 
 Quarries, Tintagel, St. Night on’s Keeve, and the coast between Tintagel 
 and Boscastle, near Camelford. St. Columb and the valley to the sea. 
 Cothele, near Gallington. 
 
 § XXXVIII. Both Devon and Cornwall are pleasant counties 
 to travel in, for the hospitality of the West is proverbial, and the 
 people are obliging and courteous to strangers. No pedestrian 
 has ever wandered over their moors, or explored with curious eye 
 the busy scenes of their labour, without having experienced the 
 truth of this observation. They are a broad-shouldered race, above 
 the average in stature, although individuals may fall below the 
 mark — for instance, Jack the Giant-killer, that “pixy” of a man, 
 was a Cornishman. But it is a fact that west country regiments, 
 When drawn up on parade with* those of other counties, have 
 covered a greater space of ground, the numbers being equal. Their 
 courage has been often displayed. Lord Exmouth, when Captain 
 Pellew, fought and won one of the most brilliant of single-ship 
 actions with a crew of Cornish miners. At an earlier period it 
 shone forth as conspicuously. In the Great Rebellion the mainstay 
 of the throne was found in the West, where the Cornish generals 
 were called “the wheels of Charles's wain.” Indeed the loyalty 
 that was then manifested has its witness in the famous letter of thanks 
 
Introd. The Traveller's General View . Ixix 
 
 addressed to the Cornish men, of which copies are still preserved in 
 some of the churches (see ante, History ), and its spirit has been handed 
 down to our own times in the following quaint nursery song : — 
 
 “ I’ll bore a hoale in Crummel’s noase, 
 
 And therein putt a string, 
 
 And laid en up and down the teown, 
 
 For murdering Charles our King.” 
 
 § XXXIX. It is to he regretted that the old Cornish games are 
 gradually losing their hold, and are dying out in the country. The 
 wrestling matches, which formerly were well attended and patronized 
 by the local gentry, are now, with few exceptions, got up by the 
 publicans as means of selling liquor ; and in place of the gold-laced hat 
 which used to be the champion’s prize, the rewards are given in 
 money — often giving rise to a suspicion of foul play, or of a man “ selling 
 his back ; ” i. e. allowing himself to be thrown by his adversary for the 
 sake of a division of the prize. Cornish wrestling had not the savage 
 character that prevailed among the Devonshire “ kickshins,” as they are 
 called. The shoes of the Cornish players were taken off before beginning 
 the match, and then kicks and trips are nearly, if not entirely harmless. 
 At the Red Lion Hotel, in St. Columb, is a large silver punchbowl, 
 given to the landlord, the famous wrestler, Polkinborne, by the gentle- 
 men of the county, after his great match wth the Devon Champion, 
 Abraham Cann. 
 
 The ancient game of hurling is now confined to the two parishes of 
 St. Columb, Major and Minor, though attempts have been made to 
 revive it in some other places. The game is a sort of extended football 
 — the goals being the church towers of the contending parishes. The 
 ball is thrown by hand instead of being kicked. The players, to the 
 number of 22 on each side, are posted by the leader in various spots 
 and hiding-places to seize the runner with the ball. No blow may be 
 struck ; but many a good-humoured struggle ensues for its possession. 
 The prize is a silver ball, held by the winning parish until it is again 
 played for. 
 
 In great part of Cornwall and in the South Hams of Devon, when 
 the last ear of wheat has been cut, the “ harvest home ” is begun by the 
 curious ceremony of “ calling the neck ” or “ nack.” The reapers all 
 assemble, and one, standing on high ground, chants slowly “I have it ! 
 I have it ! I have it ! ” A second answers, from another place “ What 
 have ye ? what have ye ? what have ye ? ” The first replies “ A neck ! 
 a neck ! a neck ! ” Then the whole party cheer three times, and the 
 “ neck ” (the last handful of wheatears) is tied up, decorated with flowers 
 and ribands, and carried to the farm kitchen, where it hangs till 
 Christmas. The effect of “ calling the neck ” on a still, warm evening, 
 heard, as it often may be, from farm beyond farm, is singularly beautiful. 
 The “ neck ” seems to be the same as the Scottish “ Kirn-baby ” but 
 the origin of the word is not at all understood. 
 
 § XL. The climate of Devonshire and Cornwall varies much in dif- 
 ferent localities ; the sheltered recesses on the southern coast enjoying a 
 
lxx 
 
 The Traveller's General View . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 mild and equable temperature, where the sun has rarely sufficient play 
 to ripen the grape, and snow and ice are almost unknown, and where 
 the myrtle, geranium, fuchsia, hydrangea, and other exotics grow in the 
 open air ; while the bare hills and elevated moors, which constitute 
 a great portion of Cornwall, are characterised by bleakness. Atlantic 
 storms sweep unchecked over this wild expanse, and the few trees which 
 grow in exposed situations are dwarfish in stature, and bent nearly into 
 a horizontal position. The extreme fury of these gales would scarcely 
 be credited by a stranger, but on a visit to Cornwall he will observe 
 that even the tombstones in the churchyards are supported by masonry 
 as a protection against the wind. “ The gale from the west,” says Pol- 
 whele, “ is here no gentle zephyr ; instead of wafting perfume on its 
 wings, it often brings devastation.” The salt of the sea is borne across 
 the country by the tempest, and this also has a pernicious effect upon 
 vegetation, and after a gale of any continuance the withered appearance 
 of the trees is very striking. Rain is of frequent occurrence, a fact 
 which is conveyed in a popular Cornish adage, that the supply for the 
 county is a shower on every week-day and two on a Sunday . It is, 
 however, rarely heavy or lasting, and the days are few indeed on which 
 the sky is not relieved by a sunbeam. To the farmer this prevalence 
 of moisture is a subject of congratulation, as the soil on the high lands is 
 so shallow and porous as to require repeated supplies ; but the quantity 
 that falls during the year is but little above the average of other parts 
 of England. The position of Cornwall necessarily exposes it to sea- 
 mists, which, collecting in the solitudes of the Atlantic, are blown to- 
 wards this shore by westerly winds ; but they are of a very different 
 character to the gloomy fogs which infest some of the inland counties. 
 Sweeping over the land in fantastic masses, they impart a certain gran- 
 deur to hill and valley, and affect the inhabitants with feelings the 
 reverse of those which the cockney experiences during a London fog. 
 There is another meaning, besides the frequent recurrence of such mists, 
 in the popular saying that a Cornishman is never in spirits but during 
 drisky (showery) weather. Both Devon and Cornwall have a mean 
 annual temperature about 1°*5 above that of the midland parts of 
 England, but in the summer they are cooler than the whole range of 
 country from the S. coast to the 53rd degree of latitude. 
 
 § XLI. The Cattle and Sheep of Devonshire will certainly attract 
 notice ; the former, especially, are as graceful and nearly as picturesque 
 as deer. The true “red Devon 99 is held to be a breed of great 
 antiquity, descended from the earliest historical times. It belongs to 
 the “ middle-horned ” variety ; and is related to the Sussex, Hereford, 
 and pure Scotch breeds. Red is the established colour, but it becomes 
 lighter as the south part of the county is approached. The head is 
 small and deer-like, the horns tapering and crescent-shaped. The 
 body well-rounded, without sharp bony angles. The 1ST. Devon breed 
 represents the type most truly, and is noted for its rich curly coat, 
 which it frequently changes when taken into other districts. It 
 thrives well where other breeds would starve, and rapidly outstrips others 
 in rich pasturage. The “ Devons ” were active workers in days when 
 
Introd. 
 
 Old Language . lxxi 
 
 they were used for the plough. In S. Devon the breed has been 
 mixed with “ Guernsey.” The Dartmoor sheep is a long, strong, and 
 somewhat coarse- woolled variety, yielding abundant fleeces and prime 
 mutton. “ Okehampton mutton ” is proverbial for its delicacy. The 
 Exmoor sheep is as hardy, but of inferior size. The mutton is 
 famous. The sheep of the South Hams is strong and long-woolled, — - 
 often attaining a large size. 
 
 The total population of Devon is 600,814. That of Cornwall, 
 exclusive of Scilly, is 366,959. 
 
 Old Language. 
 
 § XLII. The Old Cornish Language belonged to the Cymric 
 division of Celtic, to which Welsh and Armorican (Bas Breton) 
 also belong. The Gaelic division comprises Irish, Gaelic, and 
 Manx. These (Gaelic and Cymric) resemble and differ from each 
 other in about the same proportions as Latin resembles and 
 differs from Greek. 44 Tt may be asserted, without hesitation, that 
 the Cymric was separated from the Gaelic before the division into 
 Cornish and Welsh was effected; and the writer is of opinion 
 that the Cornish is the representative of a language once current 
 over all South Britain at least.” — E. Norris . In the Cymric division, 
 Welsh differs from the two others much as French differs from Spanish. 
 Cornish and Armorican are in closer relation to each other ; much as 
 Spanish and Portuguese. The more perfect and fuller grammatical 
 forms of the Gaelic show it to be older than Cymric. In the latter case 
 an amalgamation seems to have taken place with an earlier (pre- 
 Celtic) race — 44 the men of narrow skulls, whose skeletons, flint wea- 
 pons, and tools have been frequently dug up in Britain.” — Norris . 
 
 In the reign of Queen Anne, Cornish was confined to the western 
 parts of the county ; and in that of George III., Dorothy Pentreath (died 
 1778, see Rte. 29, Exc. 6) was one of the last persons who spoke it. 
 
 The main help in the study of Cornish is the 4 Grammatica Celtica ’ 
 of Zeuss (Leipzig, 1853). Fryce's 4 Cornish Vocabulary 5 (1790) is useful ; 
 Lhuydds 4 Archa3ologia Britannica ’ is of little value. The most important 
 relics of the Cornish dialect known to exist are three dramas or 
 “miracle plays,” entitled 4 Origo Mundi,’ 4 Passio Domini Nostri,’ and 
 ‘ Resurrectio Domini Nostri,’ edited and translated by Edwin Norris 
 (from MS. in the Bodleian), Oxford, 1859. (A sketch of Cornish 
 grammar is added, and an ancient Cornish vocabulary from a MS. in 
 the Brit. Mus., of the 13th cent.) Two other Cornish poems, the 
 ‘ Creation ’ and 4 Mount Calvary,’ were very indifferently edited by 
 Davies Gilbert (1826 and 1827). 
 
 In Cornwall itself the old language (but often in what may be 
 called a state of metamorphosis — see the valuable remarks of Max 
 Muller in his paper on 44 Jews in Cornwall,” 4 Chips,’ vol. iii.) survives 
 in the names of persons, places, and situations, and of a few plants 
 and animals. The broom-plant is 44 bannal,” the mountain ash 44 cair 
 (berry) tree,” a fiddle is a “ crowd ” (in Welsh “ croudd ”) ; a mine- 
 
lxxii Old Language . Introd. 
 
 work is still a “bal” (i. e. “pal” diggiug); “crum” is crooked; 
 “ clunk,” to swallow ; “ chield vean,” a little child. 
 
 The more common prefixes of names of places, significant in old 
 Cornish, are : — 
 
 Tre , town-place or residence. 
 
 Pol, a pool, or place above a port. 
 
 Pen , head of hill. 
 
 Bo or Bod , abode, dwelling. 
 
 Bos , a moor, any uncultivated ground. 
 
 Kil, a sanctuary, or a sheltered place. 
 
 Col , a small hill. 
 
 Bron , a breast. 
 
 Bryn , a mound. 
 
 <7a£, a holly. 
 
 Zan (same as Welsh Plan), an enclosure, and principally the sacred enclosure 
 or precincts of a church. 
 
 Chy, a house. 
 
 Ty , a dwelling. 
 
 Many names, properly Cornish, have become curiously corrupted. 
 Of these the following are examples : — 
 
 Modern Corruption. 
 
 Real Name. 
 
 Meaning in English. 
 
 Brown Queen 
 
 Brow srwvn 
 
 White mound. 
 
 Brown Willy 
 
 Bron welli 
 
 Look-out hill. 
 
 Tre brown 
 
 Tre bron 
 
 Place on the hill. 
 
 Manacles 
 
 Maen-eglos 
 
 Church stone. 
 
 Percent 
 
 Bosant 
 
 Holy abode. 
 
 Abode of crows, or rookery. 
 Treachery (place of). 
 
 Pothrane 
 
 Bodbrane 
 
 Broadoak 
 
 Braddoc 
 
 Pennycross 
 
 Pen-y-cros 
 
 Head of the cross. 
 
 Cold wind 
 
 Col wyn 
 
 White hillock. 
 
 Beacon Park 
 
 Bichan Parc 
 
 Small field. 
 
 Porth Piggan 
 
 Porth Bichan 
 
 Small port. 
 
 Chysoyster 
 
 Chysauster 
 
 Heap-shaped houses. 
 
 Pol scone .. .. .. 
 
 Polscoe 
 
 Pool of the wood. 
 
 Castledoor 
 
 Castel an dour . . . . 
 
 Castle on the water. 
 
 Grey mare 
 
 Griig-mor . . 
 
 Great heath. | 
 
 Cattacleuze . . . . . . . . 
 
 Caracleug 
 
 Grey rock. 
 
 Penquite 
 
 Pen coed 
 
 Head of wood. 
 
 Colquite 
 
 Col coed 
 
 Hillock of wood. 
 
 Cothele 
 
 Coed-heyle 
 
 Woods by river. 
 Mill in wood. 
 
 Mellangoose 
 
 Melan-coes 
 
 Millandra ft. 
 
 Melan-dreath . . . . . . 
 
 Mill on sands. 
 
 Down derry 
 
 Dun-derm 
 
 Oak banks. 
 
 A curious list of words still in use in East Cornwall will be found 
 in Mr. Couch’s ‘ History of Polperro ’ (1871). They are as often 
 Teutonic as Celtic. 
 
Introd. 
 
 The Duchy of Cornwall . 
 
 lxxiii 
 
 The Duchy of Cornwall. 
 
 § XLIII. In the early times of our history, mines of every descrip- 
 tion were deemed royal, as yielding the materials for coinage;., the right 
 of which was vested solely in the king. Hence the metalliferous moors 
 of Dartmoor and Cornwall had been crown lands for a long series of 
 years, when they were settled by Edw. III. (1333) upon his eldest son 
 the Black Prince, and his heirs, eldest sons of the kings of England , for 
 ever. By the charter of this monarch they were consolidated as the 
 Duchy of Cornwall, which included not only the naked wilds of stan- 
 niferous bog, but 10 castles, 9 parks, 53 manors, 13 boroughs and 
 towns, 9 hundreds, and a forest abounding in wild deer. The lands, 
 however, which were comprised in this dukedom, were little better than 
 profitless moors before the reign of James I., as the authorities had 
 no power of granting definite leases, and the tenure was dependent on 
 the life of the sovereign. But at that time (1622) the parliament took 
 the duchy in hand, and, by remodelling its constitution, empowered 
 tenants to hold farms in perpetuity by renewable leases, and gave en- 
 couragement to the outlay of capital in improvements by creating good 
 and indefeasible estates. This system, no doubt, had then its ad- 
 vantages ; but the plan of granting leases for lives or in reversion, and 
 of commuting the greater part of the rents for fines, soon reduced the 
 actual income of the duchy to an amount that was no just measure of 
 its fair annual value. From 1783 to 1830 the duchy was administered 
 for the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV., who received in the 
 above period about 370,000?. from the fines taken on the renewal of 
 leases. From 1830 to 1837 the revenues of the duchy were received 
 by William IV. ; and in this short term of seven years there seems to 
 have been an unusual number of renewals, as the fines produced 
 171,343?. Up to this time the revenues of the duchy, when there was 
 no Prince of Wales, were appropriated by the Crown. In 1838 a 
 “ Council for the Affairs of the Duchy of Cornwall ” was appointed 
 under letters patent. It was afterwards mainly under the superinten- 
 dence of the late Prince Consort, and the powers of the Council expired 
 when the Prince of Wales attained his majority in 1862. During its 
 existence, the revenues of the duchy were not appropriated by the 
 Crown ; and a series of great improvements were effected. Ho leases 
 are now granted for lives ; a fixed term of years is in all cases substi- 
 tuted for them, and life leases have been exchanged for holdings on the 
 more certain tenure. The old fines have of course taken the more 
 regular and calculable form of rent. By these means, the report of the 
 Council states, the income of the estates has been established on a 
 sound basis ; and Her Majesty has been enabled, “ by the investment of 
 a surplus revenue, to provide a large sum for the Privy Purse of the 
 Prince of Wales.” The present income of the duchy is 46,000?. 
 
lxxiv 
 
 Skeleton Tours . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 The “ Devonshire Association for the promotion of Literature, 
 Science, and Art,” established in 1862, publishes an annual volume of 
 ‘ Transactions,’ in which will be found many important papers relating 
 to the history and geology of the county. 
 
 The ‘ Journal ’ of the Royal Institution of Cornwall, established at 
 Truro ; and the 4 Reports ’ of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall 
 (at Penzance) contain a great mass of valuable information relating to 
 Cornwall. 
 
 SKELETON TOURS. 
 
 No. I.— NORTH DEVON. 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest [the most remark- 
 
 able with the Asterisk.] 
 
 Bridgewater Altar-piece of St. Mary’s. St. John’s Church. 
 
 Tapestry in the Assize Hall. The bore on 
 the river, spring-tides. Manufacture of Bath 
 bricks. 
 
 Dunster Castle. View from Grabhurst Hill*. View from 
 
 Minehead. Alabaster cliffs of Blue Anchor. 
 
 Porlock Culbone*. Bossington Hill*. * Dunkery 
 
 Beacon*. 
 
 Lynton Lyndale*. Valley of Rocks*. Glenthorne*. 
 
 Simonsbath*. Heddon’s Mouth*. 
 
 Combe Martin Watermouth. Manor-house of Berrynarbor. 
 
 Ilfracombe The Coast. 
 
 Barnstaple. 
 
 Bideford Pebble Ridge. Manor-house of Wear Gifford. 
 
 The Hobby*. Clovelly*. Clovelly Court*. 
 
 Torrington. 
 
 South Molton Castle Hill, seat of Earl Fortescue. 
 
 Dulverton Some of the finest scenery in the W. of England. 
 
 View from Mount Sydenham*. Exmoor. 
 Pixton Park. 
 
 Bampton Limestone quarries on an uncommon scale. 
 
 Charming Valley. 
 
 Wiveliscombe View from the Bampton road. 
 
 Taunton Church of St. Mary Magdalene. 
 
 Note , — In proceeding from the Great Western Railway to Lynton (besides 
 the railway to Watchet, lite. 19) there are 6 roads for your choice : 
 viz. 1. From Bridgewater, crossing the Quantock Hills near the sea. 
 2. From Bridgewater, passing the Quantocks to Bishop’s Lydeard. 3. 
 From Taunton, running at the foot of the Quantock Hills, from end to 
 end ; identical with No. 2 from Bishop’s Lydeard, and perhaps a more 
 
Xntrod. 
 
 Skeleton Tours . 
 
 lxxv 
 
 picturesque road than No. 1. (The railway to Watchet, Rte. 19, runs 
 parallel with this.) 4. From Wellington Road Station, by Milverton, 
 Wiveliscombe, Dulverton, and Simonsbath. 5. From Tiverton Station, 
 by Bampton, Dulverton, and Simonsbath. 6. From Barnstaple Station, 
 Paracombe, or by Ilfracombe and Combe Martin. 4 and 5 are far more 
 beautiful than 1, 2, or 3, but cross-country roads. Coaches run daily 
 during the summer months, on 1 and 6. On 2, 4, and 5 you must 
 travel with your own horses, post, or walk. 
 
 No. XI.— SOUTH DEVON. 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest. 
 
 Taunton . . .... . . Church of St. Mary Magdalene. 
 
 Chard Church. Lace-mills. Views from Snowdon 
 
 and Rana Hill. Ford Abbey*. 
 
 Axminster Ruins of Shute Manor-house. 
 
 Lyme Regis Pinney Landslips*. 
 
 Seaton Beer. Branscombe Mouth. Coast thence to 
 
 Sidmouth. 
 
 Sidmouth ;. High Peak. Knowle Cottage. Church of 
 
 Ottery St. Mary. Bicton. 
 
 Budleigh Salterton . . . . The cliff- walk. Pebbles of the beach. 
 
 Exmouth View from the Beacon Walks. 
 
 Dawlish Parson and Clerk Rocks. View from Haldon*. 
 
 Teignmouth View from the Den. 
 
 Torquay Anstis Cove*. Babbacomhe*. Watcombe*. 
 
 Compton Castle. Brixham. 
 
 Newton. 
 
 Ashburton Heytor Rocks*. Buckland*. Auswell Rock, 
 
 Lover's Leap*. Holne Chace*. Dart-meet. 
 Buckfastleigh. 
 
 Totnes Berry Pomeroy Castle* Dartington Hall. 
 
 Voyage down the Dart*. 
 
 Dartmouth Church. Castle. Brookhill. Old houses. Coast 
 
 between the Start Point and Salcombe*. 
 
 Salcombe Coast from Bolt Head to Bolt Tail. Prawle 
 
 Point*. 
 
 Modbury Spire of church. 
 
 Ivy Bridge The Ivy -bridge. Valley of the Erme*. Coast 
 
 of Bigbury Bay. Yealm Estuary. 
 
 Plympton Church of Plympton St. Mary. 
 
 c Mount Edgeumbe*. Dockyard. Steamy ard. 
 
 Plymouth I Breakwater*. Plymouth Hoe. Royal Albert 
 
 Devonport j Bridge*. Voyage to Weir-head of Tamar*. 
 
 I Saltram. Bickleigh Vale*. Valley of the Cad*. 
 
 Tavistock Morwell Rocks*. Double Water. Mis Tor. 
 
 Wistman's Wood*. Brent Tor. Tavy Cleave. 
 Lidford Cascade*. Lidford Bridge*. 
 
 Okehampton Castle. Yes Tor*. Belstone*. Cawsand Beacon. 
 
 Chagford GidleighPark*. Druidic monuments. Spinsters' 
 
 Rock. Whyddon Park*. Fingle Bridge*. 
 
Ixxvi 
 
 Skeleton Tours . 
 
 Introd 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest. 
 
 Moreton Hampstead . . Lustleigh Cleave*. Houndtor Coomb*. Becky 
 
 Fall*. Grimspound. Celtic bridge at Post 
 Bridge*. 
 
 Dunsford Bridge . . . . Scenery of the Teign*. 
 
 Chudleigh Chudleigh Rock*. 
 
 Exeter .. * Cathedral. 
 
 No, III. — CORNWALL. 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest. 
 
 Plymouth (Rte. 7). 
 
 Saltash Royal Albert Bridge*. Trematon Castle. 
 
 St. Germans Church. Port Eliot. 
 
 Looe Scenery of the estuary and coast. 
 
 Polperro Romantic coast. 
 
 Fowey Place House. Scenery of the estuary. 
 
 Lostwithiel Restormel Castle. Lanhydrock House. Glynn. 
 
 Boconnoc. 
 
 St. Blazey Valley of Carmeirs* and Treffry Viaduct*. 
 
 Fowey Consols and Par Consols Copper-mines. 
 
 St. Austell Church tower. Carclaze Mine*. China-clay 
 
 works. Tin stream-works. Mevagissey. 
 Roche Rocks*. 
 
 Grampound. 
 
 Probus . . Church tower. 
 
 Truro Scenery of the river. St. Piran’s church. 
 
 Perran Round*. 
 
 Perran Wharf Gardens of Carclew. 
 
 Falmouth Pendennis Castle. Falmouth Harbour. Mabe 
 
 Quarries.- Tolmen. 
 
 Helston Loe Pool. Kinance Cove*. Lizard Point*. 
 
 Devil’s Frying Pan. 
 
 Penzance Museum of the Geolog. Society. St. Michael’s 
 
 Mount*. Land’s End*. Tol Pedn Penwith*. 
 Logan Rock*. Lamorna Cove. Botallack 
 Mine (submarine)*. Druidic antiquities. 
 Isles of Scilly. 
 
 Hayle Iron-foundries. St. Ives and its bay*. 
 
 Redruth Mines. Carn-brea Hill. 
 
 Newquay Coast scenery. 
 
 St. Columb Vale of Mawgan. Lanherne. 
 
 Wadebridge Padstow. Church of St. Enodoc. 
 
 Bodmin Glynn valley. Hanter-Gantick*. 
 
 Liskeard St. Key ne’s Well. Clicker Tor. St. Cleer’s Well. 
 
 Trevethy Stone. Cheesewring*. Kilmarth 
 Tor. 
 
 Jamaica Inn Dozmare Pool. Brown Willy*. Rowtor*. 
 
 Camelford Rowtor*. Devil’s Jump. Hanter-Gantick*. 
 
 Delabole Quarries. Tintagel*. St. Nighton’s 
 Keeve. Boscastle*. 
 
 Launceston Castle. Church of St. Mary. Endsleigh*. 
 
Introd. 
 
 Skeleton Tours . 
 
 Ixxvii 
 
 Route. Chief Points of Interest. 
 
 Callington Dupath Well. Cothele*. View from Kit Hill*. 
 
 Tavistock (Rte. 13). 
 
 Plymouth (Rte. 7). 
 
 No. IV.— DEVON AND E. CORNWALL. 
 
 A walk of 9 weeks taken by T. C. P. It comprehends the chief points of 
 interest in Devonshire, and in Cornwall, E. of a line through Liskeard. 
 
 Note . — The best arrangement for a pedestrian tour in England is to send 
 your luggage from town to town by the public conveyances — that is, if 
 you can occasionally do without it for a day or two, for of course there 
 are not vans to every spot you may wish to visit. Provide yourself with 
 a pocket compass. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 1. London to Taunton by rail. Hemyock. 
 
 2. Hemyock Castle. Dunkeswell Abbey. Hembury Fort. Honiton. 
 
 3. Axminster. 
 
 4. Ford Abbey. Return to Axminster. Shute House. Colyton. 
 
 5. Seaton (Pinney Landslips should be seen). Beer Quarry. Brans- 
 
 combe Mouth. By coast to Weston Mouth. Salcombe Regis. 
 Sidmouth. 
 
 6. At Sidmouth. 
 
 7. Coast to Ladram Bay. Otterton. Bicton. Budleigh Salterton. 
 
 8. Exmouth. Starcross. Rail to Exeter. 
 
 9. Exeter Cathedral, Castle, &c. Rail to Dawlish. 
 
 10. Parson and Clerk Rocks. (You should also ascend Haldon.) 
 
 Teignmouth. Chudleigh. 
 
 11. Chudleigh Rock. Bovey Tracey. Excursion to Hennock and Bottor 
 
 Rock. Bovey Tracey. 
 
 12. Hey tor Rocks. Rippon Tor. Houndtor Coomb. Becky Fall. 
 
 Manaton. Moreton Hampstead. 
 
 13. Lustleigh Cleave. Grimspound. Return to Moreton Hampstead. 
 
 14. Dunsford Bridge. Up the Teign to Fingle Bridge. Drewsteignton. 
 
 15. Prestonbury. Cranbrook Castle, Up the Teign to Whyddon Park. 
 
 Return to Drewsteignton. 
 
 16. Spinsters’ Rock. Gidleigh and Gidleigh Park. Chagford. 
 
 17. Over Dartmoor to the source of the N. Teign. Ascend Cut Hill. 
 
 Follow the Dart to Post Bridge. Ascend Bel Tor. Ascend 
 Crockern Tor. Two Bridges. 
 
 18. Wistman’s Wood. Ascend Bairdown. Dart-meet. Newbridge. 
 
 Ashburton* 
 
 19. Ascend Buckland Beacon. Buckland. Lover’s Leap. Return to 
 
 Ashburton. 
 
 20. Penn slate*quarry. Buckfastleigh. Totnes. 
 
 21. Totnes Castle. Berry Pomeroy Castle. By boat down the Dart to 
 
 Dartmouth* 
 
 22. At Dartmouth, 
 
 23. By coast to Brixham. Paignton. 
 
 24. Torquay. Anstis Cove. Babbacombe. Return to Torquay. 
 
 [Dev. fy Com*] Q 
 
Ixxviii Skeleton Tours . Introd. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 25. By railway to Dartmouth. 
 
 26. By coast to Torcross. 
 
 27. By coast to Start Point and Prawle Point. Salcombe. 
 
 28. By coast from Bolt Head to Bolt Tail and Hope. Return to Sal- 
 
 combe. 
 
 29. Kingsbridge. Modbury. 
 
 30. Caton. Ivy Bridge. Harford. Sharpitor. Ascend Western Beacon. 
 
 Return to Ivy Bridge. 
 
 31. Caton. Mothecomb. By coast to Revelstoke Church. Noss. 
 
 Plymouth. 
 
 32. At Plymouth and Devonport. 
 
 33. Plympton. Plym Bridge. Cann Quarry. Bickleigh Vale. Roborough. 
 
 34. Bickleigh. Valley of the Cad. Shaugh. 
 
 35. Hoo Meavy. Ascend Sheepstor. Clacy well Pool. Prince Town. 
 
 36. The granite-quarries. Ascend Mis Tor. Over the moor by compass 
 
 to summit of Yes Tor. Okehampton, 
 
 37. Okehampton Castle. Up valley of VV. Okement. Ascend to summit 
 
 of Lake Down. Lidford. 
 
 38. Lidford Castle and Bridge. Lidford Cascade. Ascend Brent Tor. 
 
 Mary Tavy. Huel Friendship. Mis Tor. Tavistock. 
 
 39. Tavistock and neighbourhood. 
 
 40. Morwell Rocks. Ascend Kit Hill. Callington. 
 
 41. Dupath Well. Saltash. St. Germans. 
 
 42. Looe. Duloe. St. Keyne’s Well. Liskeard. 
 
 43. St. Cleer. Half-stone. Trevethy Stone. Return to Liskeard, 
 
 44. Hurlers. Cheesewring. Kilmarth Tor. Jamaica Inn. 
 
 45. Dozmare Pool. Four-hole Cross. Ascend Brown Willy and Rowtor. 
 
 Camelford. 
 
 46. Devil’s Jump. Hanter-Gantick. Wadebridge. 
 
 47. Padstow. Endellion. Delabole Quarries. Pengelley. 
 
 48. Tintagel. Trevena. 
 
 49. Bossiney. St. Nighton’s Keive. Willapark Point. Boscastle. 
 
 50. Crackington Cove. Stratton. 
 
 51. Stamford Hill. Bude. 
 
 52. Kilkhampton. Morwenstow. Hartland. 
 
 53. Hartland Abbey-church. By coast to Hartland Point. Clovelly. 
 
 54. Clovelly Court. By the Hobby to Buckish Mill. Bideford. 
 
 55. The Pebble Ridge. Appledore. Barnstaple. 
 
 56. Braunton. Ilfracombe. 
 
 57. Watermouth. Combe Martin. 
 
 58. By coast to Trentishoe. Heddon’s Mouth. Lyntou. 
 
 59. Neighbourhood of Lynton. (You should devote another day to 
 
 Simonsbath.) 
 
 60. Glenthorne. Porlock. Minehead. 
 
 61. Ascend Dunkery Beacon (usually ascended from Porlock)* Culbone. 
 
 Porlock. 
 
 62. Dunster. Williton. Bridgewater* 
 
In trod. 
 
 Skeleton Tours . 
 
 Ixxix 
 
 No. V.— A PEDESTRIAN TOUR IN CORNWALL. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 1. London to Devonport by rail or steamboat. 
 
 2. Saltash. St. Germans (or by water to St. Germans). 
 
 3. To the coast of Whitesand Bay. Looe. 
 
 4. Polperro. Sandplace. St. Keyne’s Well. Liskeard. 
 
 5. Visit Trevethy Stone, Cheesewring, Sharpitor, Kilmarth Tor, Hurlers, 
 
 Half-stone, St. Cleer. Return to Liskeard. 
 
 6. Lostwithiel. 
 
 7. Fowey. 
 
 8. St. Blazey. St. Austell. 
 
 9. Hensbarrow, and Roche Rocks. Return to St. Austclh 
 
 10. Mevagissey. By coast to Penare Head. Tregony. 
 
 11. Probus. Truro. 
 
 12. Carclew. Penryn. Falmouth. 
 
 13. Mabe Quarries. Tolmen. Helston. 
 
 11. Loe Pool. Coast by Kinance Cove to Lizard Town. 
 
 15. Coast from Lizard Point to Cadgewith. Helston. 
 
 16. Marazion. St. Michael’s Mount. Penzance. 
 
 17. Lamorna Cove. Logan Rock. Coast to Land’s End and Senncn 
 
 Church- town. 
 
 18. Coast to Botallack Mine (descend into this mine). Gurnard’s Head. 
 
 St. Ives. 
 
 19. Coast to Portreath. Redruth. 
 
 20. Ascend Castle Carn-brea. Visit St. Day and the Gwennap Consoli- 
 
 dated Mines. Return to Redruth. 
 
 21. Perran Round. Ascend St. Agnes’ Beacon. Perran Porth. 
 
 22. St. Piran’s Church. Newquay. 
 
 23. Vale of Mawgan. Coast to Padstow. 
 
 24. Wadebridge. Bodmin. 
 
 25. Hanter-Gantick. Ascend Rowtor. Camelford. 
 
 26. Tintagel. 
 
 27. St. Nighton’s Keeve. Boscastle. 
 
 28. Launceston (procure a ticket for Endsleigh). 
 
 29. Endsleigh. Tavistock. 
 
 30. Bickleigh Vale. Plymouth. 
 
 No. VI.— A WEEK’S TOUR TO LYNTON. 
 
 Bays. Route. 
 
 1. Bridgewater to Dunster by Bishop’s Lydeard, Crowcombe, and 
 
 Williton. See Cothelstone Manor-house on W. foot of Quantocks; 
 church and ancient crosses at B. Lydeard ; pictures and grounds of 
 _ Crowcombe Court ; cross in Crowcombe churchyard. 
 
 2. Visit Dunster Castle and its deer-park. Ascend Grabhurst Hill. 
 
 Excursion to Blue Anchor (superb view and curious cliffs) and 
 Minehead. Ascend the hill above Minehead. 
 
 3. Dunster to Porlock. Ascend Bossington Hill, or Dunkery Beacon 
 
 (both if possible). Visit Culbone. Sleep at Porlock or Minehead. 
 
lxxx 
 
 Skeleton Tours . 
 
 Introd. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 4. Porlock to Lynton, visit Glentliorne by the way (there is a coast-path 
 
 from Porlock by Culbone and Glenthorne to Countesbury). 
 
 5. Waters’-meet, Valley of Rocks, Lee Bay, and Heddon’s Mouth. 
 
 6. Lynton to Dulverton by Simonsbath. 
 
 7. Dulverton to Taunton— or to Tiverton Stat. by Bampton. 
 
 No. VII. — A WEEK’S TOUR IN N. DEVON. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 1. Taunton to Lynton (a coach), a beautiful drive; but you may go 
 
 through Exeter by rail to Barnstaple, and thence to Lynton. 
 
 2. Waters’ -meet, Valley of Rocks, Lee Bay, and Heddon’s Mouth. 
 
 3. Glenthorne, returning by Brendon and Waters’-meet. 
 
 4. Simonsbath. 
 
 5. Lynton to Bideford. 
 
 6. Clovelly and Clovelly Court. 
 
 7. Bideford to Exeter by rail. 
 
 No. VIII.— A WEEK’S WALK FROM EXETER. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 1. Fingle Bridge. Whyddon Park. Chagford. 
 
 2. Gidleigh Park. Scorhill Circle. Sittaford Tor. Return to Chagford 
 
 by Fenworthy. 
 
 3. Lustleigh Cleave. Becky Fall. Hey tor. Ashburton. 
 
 4. Ashburton to Buckland, or Holne Chace. 
 
 5. Dart-meet. Crockern Tor. Wistman’s Wood. Two Bridges. 
 
 9. Prince Town. Mis Tor. Summit of Yes Tor. Okehampton. 
 
 7. Spinsters’ Rock, Exeter. 
 
 No. IX.— A FORTNIGHT’S TOUR FROM EXETER. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 1. Chudleigh. Hey tor. Ashburton. 
 
 2. Buckland, or Holne Chace. 
 
 3. Dartington Berry Pomeroy. Totnes. In the evening by the 
 
 Dart to Dartmonth. 
 
 4. Coast to Salcombe [or by Brixham to Torquay]. 
 
 5. Coast to Mothecomb. Modbury [or from Torquay to Anstis Cove, 
 
 Babbacombe, Totnes, and by rail to Ivy Bridge]. 
 
 6. Ermington. Ivy Bridge. Explore the valley of the Erme. 
 
 7. Plymouth (by rail). Dockyard. Breakwater. Mt. Edgcumbe. Albert 
 
 Bridge. 
 
 8. Up the Tamar to Cothele and the Morwell Rocks, returning to 
 
 Plymouth. 
 
 9. Tavistock, visiting Eickleigh Vale and the Valley of the Plym on the 
 
 way. 
 
 10. Okehampton by Brent Tor. Lidford Cascade and Bridge. 
 
 11. Ascend Yes Tor. Return by Belstone to Okehampton. 
 
In trod. 
 
 Ixxxi 
 
 Geology . 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 12. Spinsters’ Rock. Gidleigh Park. Scorhill Circle. Chagford. 
 
 13. Lustleigh Cleave. Becky Fall. Houndtor Coomb. More ton 
 
 Hampstead. 
 
 14. Whyddon Park. Fingle Bridge. Exeter. 
 
 No. X.— A THREE WEEKS’ TOUR IN S. DEVON. 
 
 Days. Route. 
 
 1. London to Taunton by rail (or Lohdon to Dorchester by rail). 
 
 2. Taunton to Lyme Regis, a coach (or Dorchester to Lyme Regis.) 
 
 3. Pinney Landslips. Seaton. Walk to Beer and Branscombe Mouth. 
 
 Sleep at Seaton. 
 
 4. Seaton to Exeter, stopping at Sidmouth on the way. 
 
 5. Fingle Bridge. Whyddon Park. Spinsters’ Rock. Chagford. 
 
 6. Excurse from Chagford to Gidleigh Park, Scorhill Circle, and Sitta- 
 
 ford Tor. 
 
 7. Lustleigh Cleave. Becky Fall. Houndtor Coomb. Sleep at Moreton 
 
 Hampstead. 
 
 8. Moreton to Okehampton by Gidleigh. Stop at Sticklepath and walk 
 
 to Taw Marsh. 
 
 9. Castle. Ascend Yes Tor. Return by Belstonc to Okehampton. 
 
 10. Lidford Bridge. Lidford Cascade. Brent Tor. Tavy Cleave. 
 
 Tavistock. 
 
 11. Mis Tor and Wistman’s Wood. 
 
 12. Tavistock to Plymouth, visiting Shaugh Bridge and Bickleigh Vale. 
 
 13. Dockyard. Breakwater. Mt. Edgcumbe. Albert Bridge. 
 
 14. By the Tamar to Cothele and Morwell Rocks. Return to Plymouth. 
 
 15. Ivy Bridge (rail). Explore the valley of the Erme. 
 
 16. Totnes (rail). Dartington Hall. Dartmouth by the river, 
 
 17. Brixham. Torquay. 
 
 18. Anstis Cove. Babbacombe. Berry Pomeroy. Ashburton. 
 
 19. Holne Chace and Lover’s Leap. 
 
 20. Heytor Rocks. Chudleigh. 
 
 21. Over Haldon to Exeter. 
 
 [Dev. § Corn,'] 
 
 f 
 

 
 
 ■ 
 
 , 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 
 
 
HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 DEVONSHIRE AND CORNWALL. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 %* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are 
 
 described. 
 
 'OUTE PAGE 
 
 1 London to Exeter (Great 
 
 Western Railway) . . 2 
 
 2 London to Tiverton (Great 
 
 Western Rly.) Tiverton to 
 Crediton (Road) .... 37 
 
 3 London to Exeter (S. W. 
 
 Railway). Axminster , Honi- 
 ton , Ottery St. Mary . .41 
 
 4 Lyme Regis to Exeter (Road); 
 
 by ( Seaton ), Sidmouth , Bud- 
 leigh Salterton , and Exmouth 54 
 
 5 Exeter to Exmouth (Rly.) . 69 
 0 Exeter to Okehampton (North 
 
 Devon Rly. ; and also by 
 Road). Neighbourhood of Oke- 
 hampton, Caicsand or Cosdon 
 Beacon , Lidford, Brent Tor; 
 Okehampton to Launceston 
 (Road and Rly.) . . 71 
 
 7 Exeter to Plymouth (S. Devon 
 
 Rly.). Powderham , Dawlish, 
 Teignmouth , Newton Abbot, 
 Totnes {Excursions from Tot- 
 nes), Plympton, Plymouth 
 ( Excursions from Plymouth ) 88 
 
 8 Exeter to Moreton Hampstead 
 
 (by Road, and by the New- 
 ton and Moreton Railway). 
 Bunsford Bridge, Bovey 
 Tracey , Heytor, Manaton, 
 Lustleigh. — Moreton by 
 [Dev. 8f Corn.] 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 Chagford to Okehampton 
 (Rd.), Drewsteignton, Neigh- 
 bourhood of Chagford . . 140 
 
 9 Exeter to Torquay (South 
 Devon Rly.). Neighbourhood 
 of Torquay . . . .163 
 
 10 Torquay to Brixham and 
 
 Dartmouth (Dartmouth and 
 Torbay Rly.) — The Coast 
 from Dartmouth to Kings- 
 bridge ( Slapton , Tor Cross, 
 the Start , the Prawle, Sal- 
 combe, the Bolt ) . . .174 
 
 11 Exeter to Newton Abbot by 
 Chudleigh. ( Ugbrooke, Plaldon) 190 
 
 12 Totnes to Buckfastleigh and 
 
 Ashburton. (Rly.) Buck- 
 land, Holne, Holne Chase . 195 
 
 13 Moreton Hampstead to Tavis- 
 
 tock (Road). Dartmoor, 
 Prince Town . . .206 
 
 14. Plymouth to Tavistock and 
 Launceston (S. Devon and 
 Tavistock, and Tavistock 
 and Launceston Railways) . 222 
 
 15 Plymouth to Modbury and 
 
 Kingsbridge (Road). The 
 Coast from Kingsbridge to 
 Plymouth .... 240 
 
 16 Totnes to Plymouth (Road). 
 
 Ermington, Yealmpton . 247 
 E 
 
2 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter » 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 17 Exeter by Crediton to Barn- 
 
 staple and Bideford. South 
 Molton, Torrington , Instow, 
 Westward Ho . . 249 
 
 18 Ihe North Coast. Lyntommd 
 
 Lynmouth to Hartland , Combe 
 Martin , Ilfracombe , Clovelly . 270 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 19 Taunton to Lynmouth and 
 
 Lynton, by Wat chet, Dunster , 
 Porlock .... 296 | 
 
 20 Bampton to Holsworthy , by 
 
 South Molton and Tor- 
 rington .... 298 
 
 The principal conveyances from London into Devonshire and Cornwall 
 are the following, viz. : 
 
 1. Trains by the Great Western and Bristol and Exeter; the Tiverton 
 
 branch; the London and South-Western; the N. Devon; the S. 
 Devon, the Torquay branch ; the branch from Newton Abbot to 
 Moreton Hampstead ; the Plymouth and Tavistock, and the Tavis- i 
 tock and Launceston lines ; the Cornwall ; and the W. Cornwall 
 railways Coaches from Bridgewater and Taunton to the N. of 
 Devon. 
 
 2. Trains as far as Bristol, and Steamboats from Bristol to Hayle, some 
 
 calling at Ilfracombe and Padstow. 
 
 3. Trains to Southampton, and Steamboats from Southampton to Ply- 
 
 mouth and Falmouth, calling off Torquay and Mevagissey. 
 
 4. Trains to Plymouth, and Steamboats from Plymouth to Falmouth, 
 
 calling off Mevagissey. 
 
 KOUTE 1. 
 
 LONDON TO EXETER. — (GT. WESTERN 
 RAILWAY — PADDINGTON STATION.) 
 
 The distance from London to 
 Exeter (194 m.) is performed by 
 express trains in 44 hrs. ; by ordinary 
 trains in 7^. 
 
 Except some pleasant scenery in 
 the vale of the Thames, a distant 
 view of Windsor Castle, the famous 
 White Horse of Berkshire stretched 
 along its hillside 1., and the Box 
 Tunnel (If m. long, in places 300 ft. 
 below the surface, cost upwards of 
 500,000/.), there is little to be noticed 
 on this line until the traveller reaches 
 Bath. Between Bath and Bristol the 
 country is picturesquely wooded. 
 After passing Bristol, the Clifton 
 Suspension Bridge, across the chasm 
 of the Avon, is seen rt. Other points 
 of interest, before reaching the De- 
 vonshire border, are — 
 
 Weston-super-Mare , rt., with the 
 rocky islets of Steepholm and Flat- 
 holm, well-known places of retreat 
 to the old Northmen, rising in the 
 bay; Weston has become a fashion- 
 able watering - place ; — Burnham , 
 whence steamers cross to the Welsh 
 coast, and which is seen rt. from 
 Highbridge Stat., where is the junc- 
 tion with the Somerset and Dorset 
 Rly. (with a branch to Wells) ; — the 
 Mendip Hills , and Glastonbury Tor 
 (marked by its tower), 1. ; — Bridge- 
 water, the birthplace of Admiral 
 Blake (the Perp. church of St. Mary 
 is the only sight here); — Taunton , 
 where the fine Perp. ch., with its 
 tower rebuilt precisely on the old 
 plan, will repay a visit, whilst the 
 famous vale of Taunton Dean, 
 bounded by the Quantock and Black- 
 down hills, is full of rich and pic- 
 turesque scenery (from Taunton a 
 branch line runs to the coast at ; 
 Watchet, passing under the Quan- 
 tock hills) ; — and Wellington, where ; 
 
Devonshire. Rte. 1.— Holcombe 
 
 the ch. is interesting, but which is 
 chiefly noticeable from its having 
 given title to the Great Duke, who, 
 after the victory of Talavera, was 
 raised to the peerage as Viscount 
 Wellington of Wellington. 
 
 3 m. from Wellington the traveller 
 enters Devonshire through Whitehall 
 Tunnel , 5 furlongs in length, piercing 
 the high land prolonged from the 
 range of Black Down . Before enter- 
 ing the tunnel, however, observe, on 
 the Black Downs, 1. — ■ 
 
 The Wellington Monument , a stone 
 pillar erected by a county subscription 
 to commemorate the victory of W ater- 
 loo. The original intention was to 
 crown it with a bronze statue of Wel- 
 lington, and this design it has been 
 lately (1865) proposed to carry into 
 execution, together with the addition 
 of a small hospital for decayed soldiers, 
 who are to serve as custodians of the 
 monument. An annual fair is held 
 here on the 18th of June. The Black 
 Down Hills command a fine view of the 
 Vale of Taunton , and on the Devon side 
 embosom some secluded valleys and 
 crystal trout-streams, and are inter- 
 sected by innumerable narrow lanes. 
 They rise to 800 ft. at their highest 
 point ; and on the summit, where 2 
 ancient roads cross, on the boundary 
 line of Devon and Somerset, is a very 
 large barrow called Symonsborough , 
 traditionally said to mark the sepul- 
 chre of a king. (Qy. Sigmund the 
 Waelsing? who figures in A.-S. le- 
 gend ; see Simonsbath , Rte. 18). 
 
 As the traveller proceeds from the 
 border towards Tiverton he will ob- 
 serve the Scythe-stone Quarries on the 
 N. escarpment of the Black Downs. 
 These stones are concretions of the 
 greensand. They occur in layers at 
 several places on these hills, and are 
 often associated with organic remains 
 in fine preservation. Among the 
 fossils, according to Conybeare, are 
 no less than 150 species of shell-fish. 
 The beds are about 4 ft. thick, and 
 
 Bogus — Sampford Peverell. 3 
 
 the stone both above and below them 
 is excavated for building. The gal- 
 leries run for about 1000 ft. into the 
 hill. 
 
 Burlescombe Church, 1. of the line, 
 has an ancient screen, a good 
 example, renewed at the surface by 
 scraping, and repaired. The ch. is 
 mainly Perp., and was restored 
 throughout in 1842. 
 
 [rt. of the line, 2J m., is 
 
 Holcombe Bogus , so called from the 
 Norman Rogo, whose descendants 
 held it for 8 generations. It subse- 
 quently passed to the Bluetts, one of 
 whom built the existing mansion, 
 which is of Tudor character, and 
 worth notice. The Bluetts (1858) 
 sold the mansion and lands to 
 the Rev. W. Rayer. The view 
 through the gateway arch, of the 
 porch tower, with its oriels, is very 
 picturesque. This portion is of 
 earlier date than the hall, which was 
 built by Sir Roger Bluett, temp. Eliz. 
 Adjoining is a good Perp. Church , of 
 very pleasing character, and beauti- 
 fully placed. The tracery of the E. 
 window in the S. aisle is unusual. The 
 S. porch has a stone groined roof, with 
 heads of Edw. III. and Philippa as 
 corbels of the outer doorway. In the 
 nave and N. aisle is the manorial pew, 
 of vast size, surrounded by a cinque- 
 cento screen of wood, with a cornice 
 of medallions well carved in Scrip- 
 ture subjects. The ch. contains 2 
 Jas. I. monuments (coloured) for 
 members of the Bluett family. 
 
 Sampford P ever ell, about 3 m. left 
 of the line and somewhat more from 
 the Tiverton Junction Stat., whence 
 it is best approached, has a Church 
 which is mainly E. E., and interest- 
 ing. There is a shattered monument 
 of a crusader (Hugh Peverell?), circ. 
 1259, found under the N. aisle of the 
 nave. The S. aisle, originally Perp. 
 (one window alone remains of this 
 character) is said to have been built 
 by Margaret Beaufort, mother of 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Hen. VII., who lived here for some 
 time. The manor belonged to the 
 house of Somerset ; hence Hen. VII. 
 held it by hereditary right. In the 
 year 1810 this village became noto- 
 rious from certain remarkable visita- 
 tions known throughout the country 
 as the “Sampford Ghost.” They 
 occurred in the small house of a man 
 called Chave, and involved knoc-k- 
 ings, stamping by day and night, and 
 frequent severe beatings of the in- 
 mates. A folio Greek Testament 
 was thrown from a bed into the 
 middle of the room, and a large iron 
 candlestick, after disporting itself in 
 various fashions, finally flung itself 
 at the head of Mr. Chave. A large 
 arm, without any body attached, was 
 once seen. The story was told in a 
 curious pamphlet by the Rev. C. 
 Colton, author of a once well-known 
 book named * Lacon,’ and then a 
 curate at Tiverton. The disturb- 
 ances continued for more than 3 years. 
 A reward of 250/. was offered for 
 any information which would lead 
 to a discovery ; but no claimant ever 
 appeared.] 
 
 179J m. Tiverton Junction Stat. 
 Here a branch line passes rt. to 
 Tiverton (see Rte. 2). [A road 1. leads 
 to Uffculme (3 m., see post) and thence 
 (5 m. further) to 
 
 Hemyock (pronounced Hemmick), 
 where are some moated ruins of a 
 castle, which anciently belonged to 
 a family named Hidon, and, in the 
 Rebellion, was garrisoned and used 
 by the Parliament as a prison. It 
 was taken by the Royalists under 
 Lord Poulett, 1642, and was probably 
 dismantled some years later by Crom- 
 well. The flint-built entrance gate- 
 way, flanked by towers, is in toler- 
 able preservation. It immediately 
 faces the W. end of the ch., which 
 has been renewed. This has E. 
 Eng. and Dec. portions, and a font of 
 Purbeck stone (a Norm, bowl on 
 Perp. shaft). Hemyock is situated 
 
 on a stream which flows into the 
 Culme. In this parish, and in 
 others adjacent, are great numbers 
 of circular pits, 3 or 4 ft. deep — 
 probably remains of Roman iron- 
 works, since cinders and iron scoriae 
 have been found near them in such 
 quantities as to be used for road- 
 mending. They are found on the 
 Blackdown range of hills, on Ottery 
 East Hill, and elsewhere in E. Devon. 
 Above the greensand, of which these 
 hills consist, is a stratum of flints 
 and clay, and above again a subsoil 
 bed in which the iron ore (called 
 surface iron) is found. About 4 m. 
 S. of Hemyock, in a sheltered vale, 
 watered by a feeder of the Culme, 
 are some trifling remains of Dunkes- 
 well Abbey, founded for Cistercian 
 monks by William Lord Brewer in 
 the reign of King John, 1201. He 
 was also the founder in this county, 
 where his lands were very exten- 
 sive, of Torre Abbey (Premonstraten- 
 sian) and of a house of Benedictine 
 nuns at Polsloe, near Exeter. At 
 Dunkeswell portions of a Perp. gate- 
 house remain; and the foundations 
 of the church and conventual build- 
 ings are clearly traceable on the 
 sward of the meadow in dry seasons. 
 In a corner of the ch. yard is a large 
 stone coffin, with a covering slab of 
 Purbeck, found, with another coffin, 
 within what was no doubt the Chap- 
 ter House. The coffins contained 
 perfect skeletons of a man and a 
 woman, probably those of the founder 
 (who was buried here) and his wife. 
 Their remains were placed together 
 in one of the coffins, and reburied. 
 The abbey, with a yearly revenue of 
 300/., was granted at the dissolution 
 to John, Lord Russell. Part of the 
 abbey site is now occupied by a 
 handsome ch. erected by Mrs. Simcoe, 
 widow of General Simcoe, of Wolford 
 Lodge , and her 7 daughters. The 
 carving of the corbels, and woodwork, 
 and the painting of the glass, was 
 the work of their own hands. Many 
 of the tiles were dug from the site. 
 
5 
 
 Devonshire. Route l.—Cullompton. 
 
 The Parish Church of Dunkeswell 
 (rebuilt 1817) is the head of the 
 Deanery ; and a horse’s shoe, taken 
 from the old ch. door, is fixed to the 
 new with 10 nails, said to sym- 
 bolize the 10 churches of the 
 Deanery. This ch. with the village 
 is 2 m. from the abbey. It contains 
 a good Norman font. Dunkeswell 
 and the abbey are most easily acces- 
 sible from Honiton (Ete. 3), whence 
 the village is 6 m. and the abbey 8 m. 
 distant.] 
 
 From Tiverton junction the train 
 traverses the pastures of the Culme 
 valley, disturbing many a contem- 
 plative “ red Devon” in its course, 
 to 
 
 181J m. Cullompton {Inn: White 
 Hart), an old but (except for its 
 ch.) uninteresting town (Pop, 3185), 
 situated on the river Culme, and on 
 the Bristol and Exeter rly., and for- 
 merly known for a manufacture of 
 woollen stuffs. 
 
 The Church, dedicated to St. An- 
 drew, is late Perp. The tower, firm 
 and massive, is of the Somersetshire 
 type, having the belfry windows filled 
 with open stone-work. It dates, as an 
 inscription over the entrance asserts, 
 from 1545. The W. front is much 
 enriched. The pillars and capitals of 
 the nave, and the ceiling, with carved 
 wall-plate and angel corbels, deserve 
 notice. A chapel on the S. side of the 
 nave (forming in effect a second S. 
 aisle) was built 1528 by one John 
 Lane, a clothier of this town, and 
 deserves notice for its external orna- 
 ments, which represent the machinery 
 employed in the manufacture of cloth. 
 The roof also is very fine, with superb 
 fan tracery groining springing from 
 corbels, with pendants in the centre. 
 An inscription long read by anti- 
 quaries, 4 ‘ Wapat. cust. Lanuarii ” — • 
 “ Wapentaki custos Lanuarius ” — 
 wool-warden of the Hundred— turns 
 out to be “ with a Paternoster and an 
 Ave.” The roodscrcen, which has 
 been re-coloured and gilt, is a 
 
 gorgeous specimen— one pf the finest 
 and most perfect in Devonshire — 
 and a portion of the rude oak Cal- 
 vary, with skulls, bones, and mortice, 
 in which the rood itself stood, is still 
 to be seen. It is nearly equal to the 
 screen in length, and is a specimen of 
 extreme rarity. The ch. was restored 
 throughout in 1849 ; when some 
 curious wall-paintings in distemper, 
 representing St. Christopher, St. 
 Michael, and St. Clara, were found 
 beneath the plaster, but were again 
 concealed by a coat of whitewash. 
 The entire building will repay a 
 careful examination. 
 
 The springs of the river Culme 
 rise on the Blackdown hills. Besides 
 Cullompton, the river gives name to 
 many places on its course (Columb 
 David, Culmstock, Uffculme, &c.). 
 It joins the Exe about 3 m. from 
 Exeter. “Culme,” says old Westcote, 
 “ fleeteth, like the waters of Shiloah, 
 with a slow and still current.” 
 
 In the neighbourhood are several 
 paper-mills, and Hillersdon House, W. 
 C. Grant, Esq. ; on the road to 
 Honiton, The Grange , E. S. Drewe, 
 Esq. ; and, in the adjoining parish 
 of Uffculme, Brad field Hall , B. B. 
 Walrond, Esq., one of the finest Eliza- 
 bethan mansions in the county. The 
 family of Walrond has been seated 
 here since the reign of Henry III. 
 Thp hall is of 15th centy. The whole 
 was rest. 1861. [ Uffculme Church , 
 4 m. N.E., rebuilt in part and embel- 
 lished, is worth a visit. The original 
 building was E. Eng. (arches N. side 
 of nave, and tower, once crowned 
 by a broach spire). The present 
 chancel is Perp. The aisles extend 
 beyond the nave. That N. forms the 
 Walrond chapel, and contains some 
 curious and grotesque monuments of 
 Charles I/s time. Culmstock Church, 
 
 2 m. higher up the river (E.), had a 
 good stone screen, which has been 
 converted into a reredos. In this 
 ch. are preserved an ancient em- 
 broidered altar-cloth, and the remains 
 of a beautiful cope. (3 m. further E. 
 
6 
 
 Route 1. — London to Exeter. Sect. I. 
 
 is Hemyock : see ante). In Kentisbeare 
 ch., 3J m. E., which is Perp. (notice 
 the rich oak screen, in good preser- 
 vation, in this ch.), there was a good 
 brass for John Whiting, 1529, and 
 wife ; it, however, was stolen in 1847. 
 On' the N. wall of the chancel is a 
 tablet for the Rev. G. W. Scott, 
 rector, who died at Kentisbeare, 
 June 9, 1830, aged 26. He was the 
 third son of Hugh Scott, Esq., of 
 Harden ; and the lines on the tablet 
 were written by Sir Walter Scott, 
 who, although he had constantly re- 
 fused to write anything in the shape 
 of an epitaph, consented to do so at 
 the request of his old friends. The 
 lines are as follows : — 
 
 “ To youth, to age, alike, this tablet pale 
 Tells the brief moral of its tragic tale. 
 
 Art thou a parent? reverence this bier ; 
 
 The parent’s fondest hopes lie buried here. 
 Art thou a youth, prepared on life to start 
 With opening talents and a generous heart? 
 Fair hopes and flattering prospects — all these 
 gone — 
 
 Lo ! here they end, — a monumental stone. 
 But let submission check repining thought,— 
 Heaven crowned its champion ere the fight 
 was fought.” 
 
 Sir Walter Scott himself died, Sept. 
 21, 1832. Plymtree Church , 4 m. 
 S.S.E., is Perp. and interesting. It has 
 a very good ancient screen, and on 
 the W. face of the tower a fine niche, 
 with Virgin and Child. There are 
 also niches for figures against the 
 piers of the nave and chancel. The 
 chancel has been thoroughly re- 
 stored.] 
 
 Still following the valley of the 
 Culme, we reach 
 
 1852 m. Hele Stat. 1 m. rt. is 
 
 Bradninch. In 1644, during the 
 Civil War, King Charles was here 
 in person, aud slept several nights at 
 the rectory, now called Bradninch 
 House , where his bedstead is pre- 
 served. The Church (late Perp.) con- 
 tains a fine screen, dating 1 528, and 
 an old painting of the Crucifixion. 
 Remark the figure of the Saviour on 
 the Cross, with golden wings. It 
 was taken from the N. aisle, which 
 
 was built in the reign of Hen. VII. 
 by the fraternity of St. John, or 
 Guild of Cordwainers. Bradninch 
 is a barony attached to the ancient 
 Earldom of Cornwall. It was char- 
 tered (?) as a borough at a very 
 early period, — so early, indeed, that it 
 claimed priority of Exeter; and there 
 was a “ proverbial speech ” to the 
 effect that the Mayor of Exeter was 
 bound to hold the Mayor of Brad- 
 ninch’s stirrup “ when they met 
 together.” The Castle of Exeter 
 was held to be the chief place, or 
 “ Manor House,” of the barony of 
 Bradninch. Sundry traditional say- 
 ings, illustrative of his dignity, are 
 fathered on the mayor of the latter 
 place. Being once found reading the 
 newspaper upside down, he reminded 
 the caviller that “the Mayor .of 
 Bradninch might read the paper 
 upside down, or in any way he 
 pleased.” 
 
 2 m. 1. the line skirts Killerton Park, 
 Sir T. Dyke Acland, Bt. On the high 
 ground is Dolbury Camp (see Rte. 2). 
 There is also a modern chapel in the 
 park, which deserves notice. 
 
 3 m. rt. Poltimore House , Lord Pol- 
 timore. 
 
 The railway accompanies the 
 Culme to its junction with the Exe, 
 where, leaving on the rt. the park of 
 Pynes House (Right Hon. Sir Stafford 
 Northcote, Bart., M.P.), it turns in'a 
 curve at the junction of the Creedy 
 with the Exe, and enters, 
 
 194 m. from London, 
 
 Exeter. St. David's Stat., for the 
 Great Western (Biistol and Exeter), 
 the S. Devon, and N. Devon rlys. 
 The stat. for the S. Western and Ex- 
 mouth rlys. is at the end of Queen 
 Street ; but the 2 stats. {St. David' s 
 and Queen Street) are connected by 
 rail. : New London (best) ; — - 
 
 Clarence (in the Cathedral-yard ; 
 quiet and good, and perhaps the 
 pleasantest for any one who intends 
 to make Exeter his head-quarters 
 for a time) ; — Half Moon ; — Queen’s, 
 
1. Guildhall. 
 
 2. Baths. 
 
 3. Devon and Exeter Institution. 
 
 4. Athenaeum. 
 
 5. Royal Subscription Room. 
 
 6. New London Inn. 
 
 7. Clarence Hotel. 
 
 8. Albert Museum. 
 
Devonshire. Route 1 . — Exeter : History . 9 
 
 in Queen Street ; — Globe. (Pop. 
 34,648, exclusive of St. Thomas’s, 
 beyond Exe-bridge, which has a 
 Pop. of 6609.) Strangers, on arriv- 
 ing at Exeter, are to be reminded 
 that Devonshire cream and Devon- 
 shire junket are among the luxuries 
 to be called for at the hotels. The 
 best shop for Devonshire ( Honiton) lace 
 is Mrs. Tread win’s, in the Cathedral - 
 yard.] 
 
 Exeter , without rival the Queen 
 of the West, is seated on the 1. bank 
 of the Exe, on a steep hill that slopes 
 towards a curve of the river. The 
 Castle mound forms the summit of 
 the hill. The Cathedral towers rise 
 half-way down ; but still at such a 
 height as to justify the assertion that 
 it alone of the southern or western 
 cathedrals occupies a position at all 
 resembling those of the “far seen” 
 Lincoln or Durham. Exeter was 
 no doubt a British stronghold, and 
 was known as Caer Isc , the 44 city on 
 the river ” (/sc Cymric, Uisge 
 Gaelic = water, is retained in the 
 names of the rivers Exe and Axe, and 
 occurs frequently elsewhere). Its 
 position, at the head of the estuary, 
 just where the river ceases to be 
 navigable, resembles that of most 
 other Celtic trading towns ; and 
 numerous coins of the Greek dynas- 
 ties of Syria and Egypt, which have 
 been discovered here, seem to mark 
 Exeter as having been a chief em- 
 porium of the western tin-trade from 
 a very early period. (Some of these 
 coins are figured in Shortt’s ‘ Sylva 
 Antiqua Iscana’). The Romans, re- 
 cognising the importance of the site, 
 established themselves here ; and 
 their early occupation is proved by 
 many coins of Claudius which have 
 been found. Tesselated pavements, 
 baths, figures of Lares, pottery and 
 sepulchral urns, discovered from 
 time to time, show that Isca Damnoni- 
 orum (so Isca Siluimm was the Roman 
 name of Caerleon, on the Usk, in 
 S. Wales) was a considerable station; 
 
 and, unlike most other Romanized 
 cities in Britain, it was not, to all 
 appearance, deserted before, or 
 during, the English conquest. It 
 continued to be the capital of the 
 important British kingdom of Dam- 
 nonia, which embraced what are now 
 the counties of Devon and Cornwall, 
 with great part of Somerset ; and 
 remained intact for at least a cen- 
 tury after the English had advanced 
 to the Parret and the Axe. Gra- 
 dually the borders of this king- 
 dom were narrowed ; and when 
 Athelstan came westward about 926, 
 he found Exanceaster (the English 
 name,— -the 44 Chester,” or fortified 
 town on the Exe : this has been 
 shortened into Exeter) occupied by 
 Britons and English in common. 
 He expelled the Britons, and fixed 
 the Tamar as their limit. Then re- 
 turning to Exeter, he held therein 
 a gemote, at which certain laws still 
 in existence were promulgated, and 
 fortified the city with towers (turri- 
 bus munivit), and surrounded it with 
 a wall of squared stones (muro ex 
 quadratis lapidibus cinxit). . So 
 says William of Malmesbury. (It 
 is uncertain whether Athelstan’s wall 
 was entirely new, or whether he 
 strengthened Roman defences. The 
 author of the 4 Gesta Stephani’ speaks 
 of the city as “ vetustissimo Csesarum 
 opere murata ; ” but no remains of 
 walls which can certainly be pro- 
 nounced Roman have been found 
 here). Athelstan’s defences were 
 raised not only against the Britons 
 of “West-Wales” (as the Damno- 
 nians were called by the English), 
 but against the Danes, who had 
 wintered in Exeter in 876, and again 
 44 beset the burgh” in 894, when 
 Alfred marched against them, and 
 compelled them to fly to their ships. 
 The new walls protected Exeter in 
 1001, when the Danes plundered all 
 along this coast, and after attempting 
 in vain to make a breach in the wall, 
 were repulsed by the burghers. They 
 were strong enough, however, to 
 B 3 
 
10 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 defeat “ the king’s reeves ” on the 
 high ground of Pinhoe, within a 
 short distance of the city (‘ A.-S. 
 Chron.’ ad ann.). In 1003 it was 
 taken and plundered, but only by the 
 treachery of the Norman Hugh, 
 “ reeve ” of the Lady Emma, Queen 
 of iEthelred, who had received the 
 royal rights over Exeter as part of 
 her “ morning-gift.” The Danes 
 then, says Florence, broke down all 
 the wall from the E. to the W. gate. 
 At this time, and before, they had 
 ravaged all the surrounding country ; 
 and it was owing to this that the 
 “ bishop’s stool ” of Devonshire (to 
 which that of Cornwall had before 
 been united), was removed in 1050 
 (see the Cathedral , post) from Credi- 
 ton to the walled ‘ 4 burgh” of 
 Exeter. 
 
 Exeter thus became, like York or 
 Norwich, a great local centre, and 
 the chief stronghold and bulwark of 
 the western peninsula. At the time 
 of the Norman Conquest, the S.W. 
 counties of England — the “Wealh- 
 cyn” of Wessex — remained undis- 
 turbed for a considerable time after 
 the battle of Hastings : Exeter was 
 the centre of these still independent 
 shires ; and Gytha, the mother of 
 Harold, took refuge here, with her 
 own daughter, and probably with the 
 children of Harold. Exeter was in 
 the midst of vast estates belonging to 
 Gytha and her house. She was 
 joined here by many friends and 
 followers. The city was prepared to 
 hold out against the “alien king;” 
 and it was not until the spring of 
 1068 that William appeared before 
 it, besieged it for 18 days, and then 
 received the submission of its 
 burghers. Gytha escaped, and “ the 
 wives of many good men” with her, 
 first to Flatholm in the Bristol 
 Channel, and thence to Flanders. 
 (For the story of this siege of Exeter 
 see Freeman* s Norm. Conquest, vol. iv., 
 where it is told with thorough know- 
 ledge of the ground.) William then 
 erected a strong castle at Exeter, on 
 
 the “red mount,” overlooking the 
 city, which had before been fortified, 
 but in less effective fashion (see the 
 Castle , post). In 1137 this castle 
 was held out for Matilda by Baldwin 
 de Redvers, E. of Devon. King 
 Stephen, who was received gladly 
 within the walls of the town by the 
 citizens, besieged it for 3 months, and 
 at last reduced it. On this occasion 
 the Cathedral was partly burned. 
 Exeter, at this time, as indeed it had 
 been before the Conquest, was an 
 important commercial city. The 
 small vessels then in use could easily 
 pass up the estuary to the quays; 
 and it was not until the “ great ” 
 Countess of Devon, Isabella de For- 
 tibus, constructed, in 1284, a weir 
 across the river (about a mile above 
 Topsham ; it is still known as 
 Countess Weir), that the navigation 
 was at all hindered. The “Black 
 Pestilence,” reaching Exeter in 1349, 
 was as fatal here as elsewhere : the 
 building of the Cathedral nave was 
 arrested,— the woollen trade, agri- 
 culture, and all commercial pursuits 
 were paralysed, and the effects were 
 not recovered for some years. During 
 the Wars of the Roses there was much 
 excitement in and around Exeter. 
 The city was Lancastrian ; and in 
 1469 received within its walls the 
 Duchess of Clarence, Lord Dinham, 
 Lord Fitzwarren, and others of King 
 Henry’s partisans. It was then be- 
 sieged for 12 days by Sir William 
 Courtenay of Powderham, and the 
 Yorkists ; but held out successfully. 
 After the battle of Losecote, in Lin- 
 colnshire, the D. of Clarence and the 
 E. of Warwick fied to Exeter, and 
 escaped thence to Dartmouth; so that 
 when Edward IV., hastening after 
 them, arrived at Exeter (April, 1 470), 
 he found no enemies to deal with. He 
 received a purse of 100 nobles, and 
 walked in procession to the Cathedral 
 on Palm Sunday. There was a rising 
 at Exeter in 1483, headed by Thomas 
 Grey, Marquis of Dorset, against 
 the newly-crowned Richard III., and 
 
Devonshire. 1 Route 1 . — Exeter : History . 
 
 in favour of Henry of Richmond. 
 It was unsuccessful. Richard him- 
 self advanced to Exeter; and Sir 
 Thomas St. Leger was beheaded 
 here. (It was at this time that “ the 
 Mayor in courtesy ” showed King 
 Richard the castle : see the Castle, 
 post). In 1497, Perkin Warbeck 
 landed in Whitsand Bay, and 10 days 
 later appeared before Exeter. The 
 citizens stoutly resisted ; and in spite 
 of many daring assaults, Warbeck 
 was compelled to take flight before 
 the advancing army of the king, 
 Henry VII. He escaped to Beau- 
 lieu ; was compelled to surrender ; 
 was brought to the king at Taunton, 
 and conducted with him back to 
 Exeter. Eight trees which stood 
 in St. Peter’s Close were cut down, 
 that the king, standing in the window 
 of the treasurer’s house, might see 
 the rebels, who were led before him 
 with halters round their necks. 
 Henry pardoned them ; but many 
 had already been executed on South- 
 ernhay. The next siege of the city 
 was in 1549, when the western coun- 
 ties rose in defence of what was called 
 the “ old religion.” This continued 
 for 35 days, and the story of it has 
 been well told by John Hoker, cham- 
 berlain of the city, who was a con- 
 temporary and eye-witness. Exe 
 Island, or “ Great Shilhay,” below 
 Exe bridge, which unites Fore Street 
 with St. Thomas’s, was given to the 
 Corporation by Edward VI., for 
 the good services of the citizens 
 during this rebellion. (Hoker’s nar- 
 rative is printed in Hollinshed ; and 
 has also been published separately. 
 For a full account of the rising, see 
 Fronde s Hist.) It was contemporary 
 with Kett’s rebellion in Norfolk ; but 
 there the enclosure of lands and the 
 oppression of the Commons were 
 the great grievances, — here it was 
 the change of religion. (The de- 
 mands of the rebels and the answers 
 made to them by the Government, 
 will be found in Strype’s 4 Life of 
 Cranmer.’) Exeter exerted itself 
 
 11 
 
 vigorously in 1588, during the alarm 
 caused by the Armada; and the 
 Queen then granted to the city 
 the motto attached to its shield of 
 arms — “ Semper fidelis.” In Sept. 
 1643, during the Civil War, Exeter 
 was taken by Prince Maurice after an 
 8 months’ siege, and by the Parlia- 
 mentary forces under Fairfax in 
 April 1646, having in the interme- 
 diate period been the head-quarters 
 of the Royalists, and the residence 
 of the queen, who here gave birth to 
 the princess Henrietta, afterwards 
 Duchess of Orleans. (Bedford House, 
 belonging to the Earl of Bedford, 
 Lord-Lieutenant of Devon, which 
 was assigned to the queen as her resi- 
 dence, had been a convent of Black 
 Friars, which Ed. IV. made his head- 
 quarters when in Exeter. It has 
 entirely disappeared ; but stood on 
 the site of the present Bedford Cir- 
 cus) . Charles himself was afterwards 
 at Bedford House,— but after the 
 queen had fled westward to Falmouth 
 on the approach of the Earl of Essex. 
 His little daughter remained in 
 Exeter, where the king saw her. 
 Penruddock and Grove were be- 
 headed here in 1655 (see the Castle, 
 post.). The numerous sieges sus- 
 tained by Exeter sufficiently prove 
 the importance of its position. It 
 was almost as much the 44 clavis et 
 repagulum regni ” toward the west as 
 Dover was on the south-eastern coast. 
 
 In Nov. 1688 the Prince of Orange 
 made his formal entry (full details of 
 which will be found in Macaulay’s 
 Hist.) into this city; he was lodged 
 at the Deanery, and attended a 
 solemn Te Deum in the Cathedral, 
 where Burnet read the Prince’s 
 “Declaration.” In 1789, Exeter 
 was visited by Geo. III. and his 
 queen, who were received in great 
 state by the mayor and aldermen — 
 a ceremony which excited the merri- 
 ment of Peter Pindar, who tells us how 
 
 “ Mayster May’r, upon my word, 
 
 Poked to the king a gert long sword, 
 
 Wich he poked hack agen.” 
 
12 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 The construction of the “ Exeter 
 Ship Canal,” in the reign of 
 Henry VIII. (see post ), did much for 
 the commerce of the city. It became 
 the chief woollen mart in the West 
 of England, especially for cloths 
 known as “ serges ” and “ perpetu- 
 anas.” “ Next to the brigg market 
 at Leeds,” writes De Foe, circ. 1714, 
 “it is the greatest in England.” 
 There was great commercial inter- 
 course w r ith Holland, Spain, and 
 Italy ; and the woollen fabrics went 
 out from Exeter “ in whole fleets.” 
 All this has long passed away. There 
 is now little foreign trade ; although 
 the people of Exeter are still, as 
 Stukeley the antiquary described 
 them (circ. 1750), “ industrious and 
 courteous ; the fair sex are truly so, 
 as well as numerous. Their com- 
 plexions, and generally their hair 
 likewise, fair. They are genteel, 
 disengaged, of easy carriage, and 
 good mien.” Exeter was at this 
 time the winter quarters of the prin- 
 cipal Devonshire families, many of 
 w hom had houses here. 
 
 The earliest recorded Charter 
 granted to Exeter is that of Hen. I., 
 who confirmed the ancient liberties 
 of the borough. These had been 
 very considerable ; and Palgrave con- 
 jectures that before the Conquest 
 Exeter had been almost as indepen- 
 dent as London. The city has sent 
 members to Parliament since the 
 reign of Edw. I. The course of the 
 ancient walls of Exeter, constructed 
 or renewed by Athelstan, may still 
 be traced, and some portions remain. 
 The wall followed the crest of the 
 hill, and only came down to the river 
 at the S.E. corner. “ I do not feel 
 at all certain that some portions of 
 Athelscan’s wall do not remain on the 
 N. side.” — E . A. Freeman . All the 
 gates have been destroyed. 
 
 In recent days the opening of the 
 railway between London and Exeter, 
 May 1844, has been a memorable 
 event: the road to the metropolis, 
 in point of time, was at once short- 
 
 ened more than one-half. “ Old 
 Quicksilver” accomplished the jour- 
 ney (1G8 m.) in about 12 hrs., going 
 at a hand gallop 14 m. an hour, in- 
 cluding stoppages. No passengers 
 were taken up between London and 
 Exeter ; but the express trains now 
 run the distance in 4j hrs. 
 
 Exeter can boast of many eminent 
 children: Sir William Morice , 1602, 
 Secretary of State to Charles II. ; Sir 
 Thomas Bodleij , founder of the Bod- 
 leian Library (born 1544) ; Matthew 
 Lock , the musician ; Thomas Yalden, 
 the poet, 1671; Simon Ockley, the 
 Orientalist, 1675; Eustace Budgell , 
 the friend of Addison, 1685 ; William 
 Gandy , the portrait-painter, buried 
 in St. Paul’s ch. in this city, 1729 ; 
 Sir Vicary Gibbs , the lawyer, 1750; 
 Robert , Lord Gifford , 1779 ; and Wil- 
 liam Jackson , the composer, for many 
 years organist of the cath., born 1730. 
 L/ord Chancellor King was also a native 
 of Exeter ; and Richard LLooker , the 
 divine, was born in its immediate 
 neighbourhood, at Heavitree, 1554. 
 Pope’s “Modest Foster” was born at 
 Exeter in 1697. This city had one 
 of the earliest presses set up in Eng- 
 land, and a translation of the great 
 poem of Tasso was here first printed 
 and published. 
 
 Exeter gives the titles of marquis 
 and earl to the Cecil family, and by 
 an act of Pari., in the reign of Edw. 
 VI., was constituted an independent 
 county. 
 
 From the S. Western and N. 
 Devon rly. stat., Queen Street leads 
 you directly into the heart of the 
 city. Queen Street opens into the 
 old High Street ; and immediately 
 opposite, a narrow passage (St. Mar- 
 tin's Lane) leads into the Cathedral 
 Close . In Queen Street, on the 1. side, 
 are the Albert Museum and the Rost 
 Office. 
 
 The principal thoroughfares divide 
 the city into 4 parts ; High Street and 
 Fore Street, following the line of the 
 Roman road — a branch of the “ Iken- 
 hilde Way,” which ran from Exeter 
 
Route 1 . — Exeter : Cathedral. 
 
 13 
 
 Devonshire. 
 
 into Cornwall — traverse it in a line 
 from E. to W.; North Street and 
 South Street run N. and S., and meet 
 at rt. angles to High Street. (This 
 old arrangement indicates the ground 
 plan of the Koman Isca. The great 
 mound on which the Castle stood 
 was no doubt the British strong- 
 hold.) Of late years the prevalent^ 
 building mania has greatly extended 
 its dimensions. The principal streets 
 are continued into St. Sidwell’s on the 
 E., Mount Radford on the S., St. David's 
 on the N., and Exe Island and a square 
 called the Quarter on the S.W. Queen 
 Elizabeth gave the city, besides its 
 motto, “ Semper fidelis,” two “ Pe- 
 gasuses argent” as the supporters for 
 its shield of arms (a castle with a 
 portcullis). (A countryman, show- 
 ing these supporters to a stranger, 
 is said to have observed, “ These be 
 the two race-hosses that rinned upon 
 Haldon, wi’ names of ’em put under 
 — Scamper and Phillis.") 
 
 The chief points of interest in 
 Exeter are the Cathedral ; the Castle , 
 or rather the mound and scanty 
 remains of the Castle ; Mount Din- 
 ham , with St. Michael's Church and 
 the free cottages adjoining ; the Guild- 
 hall with its portraits ; the Albert 
 Memorial Museum in Queen Street ; 
 a few of the Parish Churches ; and 
 the walks on Northernhay. The views 
 from these walks and from Mount 
 Dinham are very striking ; and from 
 the top of the N. transept tower of 
 the Cathedral there is a grand bird’s- 
 eye view of the city and of the 
 estuary, at the head of which it 
 stands. This view extends as far as 
 the mouth of the river. There are 
 also some ancient houses in the city 
 which deserve attention. 
 
 The ** Cathedral , the seat of the 
 Devonshire bishopric, which had 
 been established at Crediton towards 
 the beginning of the 10th centy. 
 (circ. 910), was removed to Exeter 
 in 1050 (for the increased security 
 of a walled city) by the Confessor. 
 
 During the greater portion of the 
 intervening period Cornwall had its 
 separate bishops ; but Leofric , in 
 whose time the change was made, 
 had received the 2 sees united from 
 his predecessor Living, and they 
 have never since been separated. 
 
 Leofric was established in a Saxon 
 ch., which had been that of a mo- 
 nastery. It occupied part of the 
 site of the present cathedral (pro- 
 bably that of the existing Lady 
 Chapel, and a short space west of it, 
 but no portion remains). A new 
 cathedral was commenced by Bp. 
 Warelwast , nephew of the Conqueror 
 (1107-1136), and was completed by 
 Bp. Marshall (1194-1206). In 1136 
 it was much injured by fire, during 
 Stephen’s siege of the Castle. The 
 portions which remain of this 
 Norman building are the transeptal 
 towers, and perhaps some courses of 
 masonry on the N. side of the nave, 
 between the N. tower and the N. 
 porch. During the present (1871) 
 restoration of the choir, the founda- 
 tions of a Norman apse, terminating 
 the choir of the Norm. Cathedral 
 were found at the end of the third 
 bay from the W. It would appear 
 that the dimensions of the Norm. 
 Cathedral were nearly the same as 
 of that which now exists, with the 
 exception of additions eastward. It 
 probably resembled the Norm. Cath. 
 of Chichester, with which place Bp. 
 Warelwast was connected, and which 
 was building at the same time. 
 
 Bp. Walter Bronescombe (1258- 
 1280) commenced a series of new 
 works, which led to the gradual re- 
 moval of the Norman Cathedral and 
 to the erection of the present struc- 
 ture. Part of the Lady chapel was 
 built during his time ; but his suc- 
 cessor, Peter Quivil (1280-1291), seems 
 to have furnished plans for the entire 
 building, which were followed with 
 but little variation by his successors. 
 Bp. Quivil himself constructed (or 
 completed the construction of) the 
 transepts out of Warelwast’s Norm. 
 
14 
 
 Route 1 . — - London to Exeter. 
 
 towers, and completed the Lady cha- 
 pel. Bp. Bytton (1292-1307) began 
 the work of the choir, and completed 
 the 3 western bays. His successor, 
 Bp. Stapledon ( 1307-1326) constructed 
 the remaining 4 bays. Bp. Gran - 
 disson (1327-1369) completed the 
 nave. Bp. Brantyngham (1369- 
 1394) probably added the west- 
 ern screen, with its porches and 
 sculpture. Although it appears from 
 these dates that the greater part of 
 the cathedral was erected during the 
 later Dec. (Curvilinear) period, it 
 belongs, nevertheless, in all its de- 
 tails (with the exception of the west- 
 ern screen), to the earlier or Geometri- 
 cal Dec. ; an apparent proof that the 
 plans were fully provided by Bp. 
 Quivil, with whose time the details 
 well agree. Archdeacon Freeman, in 
 a lecture on the Cathedral (published 
 at Exeter, 1871), has argued, with 
 much probability, that the Norman 
 Cathedral was not actually removed, 
 but was transformed, portion by por- 
 tion, the round arches of the great 
 arcade being converted into much 
 larger pointed ones. Winchester and 
 Gloucester may be compared : but in 
 those cases the transformation is 
 evident and palpable. Here, if such 
 a change was really effected, “ art 
 has been concealed by art.” Archdn. 
 Freeman suggests that Bp. Marshall, 
 in completing what is called the 
 Norman Cathedral, did away with 
 the Norman apse, which had up to 
 his time terminated the choir east- 
 ward, and added six bays beyond it. 
 Marshall’s work (1194-1206) must 
 have been transitional, with strong 
 E. Eng. tendencies. Bp. Stapledon, as 
 is expressly recorded, constructed 
 the 4 eastern bays of the choir, as 
 they now appear, the 3 western hav- 
 ing been the work of his predecessor 
 Bytton. A remarkable difference 
 will be seen in these bays. The 
 western have a recessed triforial gal- 
 lery, under the clerestory windows. 
 The eastern have only a blank ar- 
 cade, and no passage. This, accord- 
 
 Sect. t. 
 
 ing to Archdn. Freeman, was ren- 
 dered necessary from the fact that 
 the massive Norman wall ceased at 
 the end of the 3rd bay from the W. 
 (where the foundations of the apse 
 were- found), and that Marshall’s 
 wall east of it was transitional and 
 thinner. Bytton, therefore, was able 
 to convert the thick wall into a 
 gallery ; Stapledon, with a less 
 massive wall, could only adopt a 
 blind arcade. There is perhaps no 
 overwhelming proof that the Norm, 
 cathedral was thus transformed, and 
 not taken down altogether ; but it is 
 very far from improbable. The 
 Cathedral is one of the most 
 interesting and important examples 
 of Dec. in England. Compared 
 with other English cathedrals, 
 the specialities of Exeter are its tran- 
 septal Norm, towers, and its long 
 unbroken roof, extending throughout 
 nave and choir. 
 
 The plan, also, as it now exists, 
 
 4 ‘exhibits perhaps the most perfect 
 specimen in the world of bilateral (or 
 right and left hand) symmetry. Not 
 only does pillar answer to pillar and 
 aisle to aisle, and window-tracery 
 to window-tracery, but also chapel to 
 chapel, St. John Baptist’s to St. 
 Paul’s, St. James’s to St. Andrew’s, 
 St. Saviour’s to St. George’s, St. 
 Gabriel’s to St. Mary Magdalene’s; 
 while to crown all, the grand charac- 
 teristic feature of our cathedral, the 
 transeptal towers, completes this 
 balance of parts, and was indeed the 
 primary instance and model of it.” — 
 Archdn. Freeman. The nave and choir 
 have, very unusually, the same num- 
 ber (7) of bays. The height, length, 
 and breadth of the nave and tran- 
 sept towers is the same, 140 ft., and a 
 most remarkable ‘‘rhythmical sym- 
 metry” runs through the divisions 
 of the great pillars and of the 
 vaulted roof. Each pillar is sub- 
 divided into 16 minor shafts or 
 flutings ; and in the vault “ each of 
 the 15 compartments exhibits 24 
 facets, so to speak, at a certain angle 
 
A. Former position of tomb of 
 E. of Devon, now in S. tran- 
 sept. 
 
 B. Brass of Sir Peter Courtenay . 
 
 C. Tomb of Bp. John the 
 Chanter. 
 
 D. Tomb of Bp. Marshall. 
 
 E. Tomb of Bp. Lacy. 
 
 F. Tomb of Bp. Stap'edon. 
 
 G. Tomb said to be of Bp. Chi- 
 chester. 
 
 H. Monument of Sir R. Sta- 
 pledon. 
 
 I. Monument of Bp. Bartholo- 
 mseus Iscanus. 
 
 J. Monument of Bp. Simon of 
 Apulia. 
 
 K. L. Monuments of Sir John 
 and Lady Doddridge 
 
 M. Tomb slab of Bp. Quivil. 
 
 N. Monument of Bp. Brones- 
 combe. 
 
 O. Monument of Bp. Stafford. 
 
 P. Brass of Canon Langton. 
 
 Q. Monument of Sir Gawaia 
 and Sir Peter Carew. 
 
 It. Monument of Sir John and 
 Lady Gilbert. 
 
 . T. Cross-legged knights. 
 
 U. Monument said to record 
 Bp. Leofric. 
 
 1. St. Eadegunde’s chapel. 
 
 2. St. Edmund’s chapel. 
 
 3. Chapel of St. John the Bap- 
 tist. 
 
 4. Chapel of the Holy Ghost. 
 
 5. North porch. 
 
 6. St. Paul’s chapel. 
 
 7. Sylke’s chantry. 
 
 3. St. Andrew’s chapel. 
 
 9. Speke’s chantry. 
 
 10. Bp. Oldham’s chantry. 
 
 11. St. James’s chapel. 
 
16 Route 1 . — London to Exeter. Sect. 1, 
 
 to each other. Bold groining ribs 
 divide these facets from each other, 
 and are themselves so moulded as to 
 present each one 15 different sur- 
 faces, with intervening hollows to 
 the eye. There are therefore nearly 
 6000 surfaces in all, half of them 
 visible at once, every one rhyth- 
 mically placed, and affecting the eye 
 with an agreeable impression of light 
 and shade.” — P. P. Finally, the 
 uniformity of architecture is most 
 noticeable. The cathedral is Dec. 
 throughout, and is only paralleled 
 in this respect by Salisbury, which 
 is throughout E. English. 
 
 During the Commonwealth the 
 cathedral was divided by a brick 
 wall, erected on the site of the rood- 
 loft ; and two eminent preachers took 
 possession of the separated portions, 
 known as “West Peter’s ” and “ East 
 Peter’s.” They “ enjoyed great com- 
 fort and quiet ” until the Restoration, 
 when they were happily expelled by 
 Bp. Seth Ward (1662-1667), who 
 pulled down the “ monstrous Baby- 
 lonish wall” (as it was afterwards 
 called), and “ cast out of the temple 
 the buyers and sellers who had kept 
 distinct shops in it.” The Puritans 
 had pulled down the cloisters, and 
 the Visitors of Edward VI. and Eliza- 
 beth had long before worked much 
 havoc among the sculptures and 
 other decorations of the cathedral. 
 
 In the spring of 1859, the nave of 
 the cathedral was fitted for con- 
 gregational worship. The choir re- 
 mained crowded with pews, and 
 fitted with wainscot-work of the last 
 century, costly and well- worked, but 
 altogether inappropriate and un- 
 pleasing. In 1870 Mr. G. G. Scott 
 made a report to the Chapter on the 
 condition of the cathedral ; and the 
 restoration of the whole of the build- 
 ing, extending from the choir screen 
 eastward, was then placed in his 
 hands. This was rendered possible 
 by the liberality of one member of 
 the Chapter, the Rev. Chancellor 
 Herrington, who contributed i,‘5000. 
 
 Large sums were subscribed by the 
 rest of the Chapter, and the work 
 was begun in 1871. It is still (1872) 
 in progress. Mr. Scott’s designs 
 embrace very beautiful new stall- 
 work for the choir, to which the 
 superb bishop’s throne and the ancient 
 subsellia will be adapted; a sculp- 
 tured reredos of great richness, in 
 which the marbles, spars, and ser- 
 pentine of Devon and Cornwall will 
 be used, at the E. end of the pres- 
 bytery; the complete restoration of 
 the stone-work, especially of the 
 Purbeck marble shafts, which, in 
 places, were much shattered ; the 
 application of gold and colour to the 
 corbels, capitals, and roof bosses; 
 and the insertion of stained glass 
 wherever required. The Lady Cha- 
 pel, the Retrochoir, and the aisles of 
 the choir will also be restored. The 
 fitting treatment of the choir screen 
 (see post ) has given rise to much 
 discussion, and it is not yet certain 
 in what way the present entire sepa- 
 ration of the nave from the choir 
 will be modified. The whole work 
 promises to restore to the cathedral 
 much ancient beauty which had long 
 been hidden ; and where new fittings 
 are required, to provide that they 
 shall be not unworthy of the grace 
 and finish of the earlier art with 
 which they will be associated. 
 
 The only good exterior view of 
 the cathedral is from the N. side— the 
 only one open. On this side the 
 Lady Chapel has been (1871) well 
 exposed by the liberality of the Rev. 
 Chancellor Harrington, who has 
 allowed the removal of some build- 
 ings which much interfered with it. 
 It is hoped that the S. side of the 
 cathedral may, before the present 
 restoration is completed, be laid 
 more open. There is a very fine 
 view of the cathedral from the gar- 
 den of the bp.’s palace, on the S. 
 side. “ As we walk round, we can- 
 not but consider that the cathedral, 
 though far from lofty, and present- 
 ing none of the majestic features of 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 1 . — ■ Exeter : Cathedral . 
 
 1 ? 
 
 several of its sister churches, is 
 nevertheless a fine composition. The 
 aisles of choir and nave, intercepted 
 by the stately Norm, towers, farther 
 broken by the prominence of their 
 chantries, and spanned by flying but- 
 tresses richly pinnacled; the large, 
 pure windows, which pierce both aisle 
 and clerestory ; the roof, highly 
 pitched, and finished with crest- 
 tiles, — form a decidedly graceful and 
 pleasing whole.” — J. W. Eewett. The 
 flying buttresses were rendered neces- 
 sary by the removal of the massive 
 Norman aisle walls. 
 
 The W. Front , probably the work of 
 Bp.Brantyngham (1369-1394) — Edw. 
 III.’s Treasurer in Picardy, and more 
 than once Lord High Treasurer of 
 England — is of high interest ; and 
 though it cannot compete with those 
 of Wells or Lincoln (both of earlier 
 date), may justly claim great beauty 
 as an architectural composition. In 
 the gable niche is a figure of St. 
 Peter, to whom the cathedral (like 
 the first Saxon ch. here) is dedicated. 
 The screen is pierced by 3 doorways, 
 and surrounded by a series of niches, 
 in which are the statues of kings, 
 warriors, saints, and apostles, guar- 
 dians, as it were, of the entrance to 
 the sanctuary. These figures are 
 arranged in 3 rows : the lowest are 
 angels, who support shafts with capi- 
 tals, on which the 2nd row, mostly 
 kings and knights, are placed ; in 
 the 3rd row are chiefly saints and 
 apostles. It is scarcely possible to 
 identify any of these figures with 
 certainty. The 2 statues, however, 
 with shields of arms, in niches 
 above the upper row, are those of 
 Athelstan and Edward the Con- 
 fessor. All are now battered and 
 time-worn ; and 2, which crumbled 
 to pieces and fell from their niches, 
 have been replaced by Stephens, a 
 native of Exeter. The whole work 
 is fully entitled to Mr. Cockerell’s 
 praise of it, as “ remarkable, charac- 
 teristic, and beautiful sculpture.” 
 
 The great W. window will best be 
 
 noticed from within. The 3 door- 
 ways are much enriched ; remark 
 the moulding of carved foliage round 
 that in the centre. On the central 
 boss of the groining is a representa- 
 tion of the Crucifixion. Within the 
 S. doorway are 2 much- shattered 
 sculptures — “ The Appearance of the 
 Angel to Joseph in a dream,” and 
 “The Adoration of the Shepherds.” 
 Between this doorway and the centre 
 is the Chantry of St. Badegunde, con- 
 structed by Bp. Grandisson for the 
 place of his own sepulture, and 
 worked into the screen on its comple- 
 tion, by Bp. Brantyngham. On the 
 roof is a figure of the Saviour, in 
 low relief, with the rt. hand raised 
 in benediction. From the holes in 
 the stone, lamps were suspended. 
 The tomb of Grandisson, the most 
 distinguished prelate who ever filled 
 the see, was sacrilegiously violated 
 between 1590 and 1600 (the exact 
 year and the perpetrators are un- 
 known), ci the ashes scattered abroad,” 
 says Hoker, “ and the bones bestowed 
 no man knoweth where.” 
 
 The Nave , 140 ft. in length, is 
 (except the easternmost bay, which 
 seems to have been constructed by 
 Quivil), as far as the transepts, the 
 work of Bishop Grandisson (1327- 
 1369). The walls and roof are of 
 stone from the quarries of Silverton 
 and Beer (see Bte. 4) ; the clustered 
 pillars of Purbeck marble. Although 
 the view eastward is (and will pro- 
 bably continue to be) intercepted by 
 the organ, the general impression is 
 that of great richness and beauty. 
 The roof (owing to the absence of a 
 central tower) is unbroken from end 
 to end, and is exceeded in grace and 
 lightness by no other in England. 
 (See ante for some observations on 
 it.) The visitor should remark — 
 
 (a) The carved bosses of the roof, 
 which retain traces of colour, and 
 represent foliage, grotesque figures, 
 and animals; heads of the Virgin 
 and Saviour, +he Passion and Cruci- 
 
18 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 fixion ; and in the centre of the 2nd 
 bay the murder of Becket. Grandis- 
 son wrote a Life of St. Thomas of 
 Canterbury. 
 
 (6) The corbels between the arches, 
 which support the clustered vaulting 
 shafts. These are peculiar to this 
 cathedral : and the exquisite beauty 
 of the carved foliage calls for espe- 
 cial notice. The easternmost cor- 
 bels display on the N. side Moses, 
 with his hands supported by Aaron 
 and Hur ; and S., the risen Saviour, 
 with cross and banner. 
 
 (c) The Minstrel's Gallery , in the 
 central bay on the N. side. This is 
 the finest example in England. There 
 is a small gallery at Wells, and the 
 “ Tribune ” at the end of the nave 
 at Winchester served for the same 
 purpose; but neither equals this. 
 The musical instruments carried by 
 the angels in the niches are worth 
 notice. The two corbelled heads 
 below are those of Edw. III. and 
 Philippa. Edw. III. in 1336, erected 
 the Earldom of Cornwall into a 
 Duchy, giving it to his son, the 
 Black Prince, the City of Exeter 
 being made a part of the Duchy. 
 This gallery, which seems to have 
 been an after-thought (since marble 
 shafts had before been provided for 
 finishing this bay like the others) 
 may well have been intended to 
 commemorate this event. 
 
 ( d ) The windows of the nave, nearly 
 all of the first Dec. (geometrical) cha- 
 racter, are said to exhibit a greater 
 variety of tracery than can be found 
 in any other building in the king- 
 dom. They are arranged in pairs, 
 on opposite sides of the cathedral, so 
 that no two, side by side, resemble 
 each other. In all, except the two 
 westernmost, it will be seen that the 
 geometrical character prevails, indi- 
 cating that the design, furnished by 
 Quivil, was adhered to with little 
 modification. The great W. window 
 is Bp. Brantyngham’s (1369-1394) 
 work ; and its curvilinear tracery, 
 witli that of the last windows on either 
 
 side, differs from the others. It is a 
 superb example of later Dec. The 
 glass in it (dating from 1766) is 
 quite worthless, and materially in- 
 jures the beauty of the window. The 
 easternmost window of the aisles, on 
 each side, is partly blocked by the 
 Norman tower. The aisle wall here 
 is probably Norman, and the inser- 
 tion of a fully-lighted window, such 
 as those below, was impossible. 
 
 Opening from the first bay on the 
 N. side of the nave, is the little chapel 
 of St. Edmund . It now serves as the 
 Consistory Court. In the fifth bay is 
 the N. porch. Th e font, in the S. side 
 of the nave, was the giftof Archdeacon 
 Bartholomew in 1842, and is a copy 
 of the Perp. font at Beverley Min- 
 ster. The inscription round it should 
 be read. In the last bay eastward on 
 this side a door opens to the site of 
 the cloisters. There is an inscription 
 against the E. wall not altogether 
 intelligible, but apparently containing 
 a reference to the first and second 
 4 Adam ; ’ and a fine consecration 
 cross between the two first buttresses 
 on the S. side. 
 
 On entering the nave the visitor 
 will have been at once attracted by 
 the extraordinary memorial of the 
 9th (Queen’s Royal) Lancers, which 
 covers the wall of the second bay on 
 the N. side. It was erected in 1860 
 by the officers and men of the regi- 
 ment to the memory of their com- 
 rades who fell in India. Two 
 mounted lancers and two palm-trees 
 figure in bronze on a tablet of grey 
 Sicilian marble. The design, which 
 is utterly without meaning, is by 
 Baron Marochetti ; and it is much to 
 be hoped that the memorial, which 
 is singularly intrusive and inappro- 
 priate, may shortly be replaced by a 
 worthier. On the S. side of the 
 nave was the high tomb with effigies 
 of Hugh Courtenay (d. 1377), second 
 Earl of Devon of the house of Cour- 
 tenay, and of his countess Margaret 
 (d. 1391). ^This has been removed to 
 
Devonshire. Route 1 . — Exeter : Cathedral . 
 
 19 
 
 the S. transept, and the whole of the 
 ancient surface has been chiselled 
 afresh, thereby destroying what re- 
 mained of ancient art, and giving 
 us instead a modern work without 
 feeling or expression. It stood in 
 the nave within a very rich chantry 
 chapel, which was removed about 
 1630. The place of this chantry is 
 still marked by the brass of Sir Peter 
 Courtenay (d. 1406), son of this 
 
 Earl Hugh, standardbearer to Ed- 
 ward III., and distinguished in the 
 French and Spanish wars under the 
 Black Prince. This brass has been 
 mutilated, but is still fine and inter- 
 esting. Among the other slabs on 
 the flooring of the nave is that of 
 John Loosemore, builder of the noble 
 organ, who d. 1682. He is ranked 
 by Dr. Burney among the first 
 organ-builders of his time. 
 
 Passing into the North Transept , the 
 visitor should first remark the man- 
 ner in which Bp. Quivil (1280-1291) 
 formed the transepts out of the 
 Norm, towers of William Warelwast. 
 “ The inner side of each (adjoining 
 the nave) was taken down to nearly 
 half its height from the ground, and 
 a vast substantial arch constructed 
 to sustain the upper remaining part.” 
 The squareness and narrowness of 
 the transepts are at once apparent. 
 That these towers were always tran- 
 septal, and not, as has often been 
 suggested, the western towers of a 
 Norman church which extended east- 
 ward of them, is proved not only by 
 the Norman masonry in the wall 
 between the tower and the N. porch, 
 but by the foundations of the apse 
 discovered during the present (1871) 
 restoration. The church of Ottery 
 St. Mary, dedicated by Bp. Brones- 
 combe in 1260, seems to have been a 
 direct imitation of the cathedral of 
 Exeter (at least of its ground plan) 
 as it then existed. Ottery is the 
 only church in England, except 
 Exeter, which has transeptal towers ; 
 and, except the well-known instance 
 at Le Mans, there are none of any 
 
 note on the Continent. The win- 
 dows N. and S. of the transepts, 
 and the open galleries, which pro- 
 ject E. and W., are probably Bp. 
 Quivil’s work ; as are the chapels of 
 St. Paui and St. John the Baptist, 
 which open E. from the 2 transepts. 
 The tracery of the transept windows 
 is of extreme beauty, and shows well 
 the wheel-form which was but little 
 departed from by Quivil’s successors. 
 The overhanging galleries, very pic- 
 turesque in themselves, were ren- 
 dered necessary by the fact that the 
 Norman walls of the towers could 
 not well be pierced, and that a tri- 
 forial passage, communicating with 
 that in the choir, was required. 
 Adjoining St. Paul’s chapel, in the 
 N. transept, is the chantry of Wm. 
 Silke , sub-chanter, d. 1508. The in- 
 scription above his effigy, an ema- 
 ciated figure in a shroud, runs— 
 “Sum quod eris, fueram quod es; 
 pro me, precor, ora.” A mural 
 painting of the Resurrection, of the 
 same date, has been found at the 
 back of this chantry. 
 
 The clock in this transept is cele- 
 brated. It is certain that a clock 
 existed “in boreali turre” of the 
 cathedral in 1317, which was pro- 
 bably the same that yet remains. 
 It has 2 dials, and its construction is 
 referred to the reign of Edw. III. 
 (it is probably older), when the 
 science of astronomy was in its non- 
 age, and the earth regarded as the 
 central point of the universe. The 
 upper disc, which was added in 1760, 
 shows the minutes. The lower disc 
 is divided into 3 parts ; the figure of 
 the earth forming the nucleus of the 
 innermost circle, that of the sun tra- 
 versing the outer space, that of the 
 moou the intermediate one. The 
 sun is stamped with a fleur-de-lis, 
 the upper end pointing to the hour 
 of the day, the lower to the age of 
 the moon; while the figure of the 
 moon is made black on one side, and 
 moved by the clock-work so as to 
 imitate the varying aspect of its in- 
 
20 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Itoute 1 . — London to Exetet * 
 
 constant original. Little of the an- 
 cient works remains however. The 
 last restoration and gilding took 
 place in 1859. There is a very- 
 similar clock in the ch. of Ottery 
 (Rte. 3) ; and one resembling it in 
 Wells cathedral, which is said to 
 have been brought from Glaston- 
 bury. 
 
 From this transept the N. tower, in 
 which is the great bell, may be 
 ascended. This was brought from 
 Llandaff by Bishop Courtenay (1478- 
 1486), and is the second largest bell 
 in England. It weighs 12,500 lbs. 
 (Great Tom at Oxford weighs 17,000 
 lbs.) The “ Peter " bell, as it is 
 called, was recast in 1676. Its dia- 
 meter at the mouth is 6 ft. 3 in., its 
 height 4 ft. 8 in. It is never rung — 
 the hours are struck on it by an 
 enormous hammer. From the top of 
 the tower (which was much altered 
 by Bishop Courtenay for the recep- 
 tion of his bell) a superb view of the 
 city, and of the river as far as Ex- 
 mouth, is commanded. 
 
 In the South Transept , which pre- 
 cisely resembles the North, is the 
 Courtenay monument, already men- 
 tioned. Against the S. wall is a 
 mural mont. with kneeling effigy of 
 Sir Peter Carew, who died in Ireland 
 in 1575, and is buried there (see 
 Mohuris Ottery , Rte. 3). He is also 
 commemorated on the mont. of his 
 uncle, Sir Gawain, in St. Mary Mag- 
 dalene’s Chapel ( post ). Against the 
 E. wall is an arched monument of 
 the 16th cent., recording that Leofric 
 first bishop of Exeter rests below, — 
 an assertion which there seems no 
 reason for doubting. A door at the 
 S.W. angle of this transept leads into 
 the Chapel of the Holy Ghost , a narrow, 
 semi-cylindrically vaulted building, 
 of E. Eng. date. The old font, which 
 stands in it, was first used at the 
 baptism of the Princess Henrietta, 
 daughter of Charles I., born at Exe- 
 ter in 1644. Beyond this chapel is 
 the Chapter House : the lower part is 
 surrounded by a fine arcade, E. Eng., 
 
 and perhaps the work of Bp. Brewer 
 (1224-1244) ; the upper, with Perp. 
 niches, is assigned to Bp. Lacey 
 (1420-1455). The E. window is 
 given to Bp. Neville (1458-1465) ; 
 and the ceiling to Bp. Bothe (1465- 
 1478). The Chapter Library, a good 
 collection of about 8000 vols., is 
 preserved here ; as are an alabaster 
 model of the tomb of Bp. Carey in 
 the church of Sta. Croce in Flo- 
 rence, where he died 1419 ; and a 
 sapphire ring, chalice, and paten, 
 found in the tomb of Bp. Bytton, be- 
 fore the high altar. 
 
 The Choir Screen , as has been 
 proved by examinations made during 
 the restoration of the choir (1871) 
 was part of Stapledon’s (1308-1326) 
 work, though it has no doubt been 
 much tampered with at different 
 times. Bills however have been 
 found for all the principal parts of 
 the fabric — iron bars, tiles, steps, and 
 marble pillars ; and although the 
 ogee arches at the sides are very 
 unusual at so early a period, they are 
 no doubt part of the original work. 
 The rose and thistle in the spandrils 
 were barbarously introduced temp. 
 James I. ; and the thirteen paint- 
 ings on stone in the small arches 
 above, although sometimes said to 
 be of the 14th centy., are really not 
 earlier than the beginning of the 
 17th. They are worthless and un- 
 interesting. The parapet above is 
 modern. The organ , originally by 
 Loosemore (1665), was rebuilt by 
 Lincoln in 1819, and is among the 
 finest in England. It is said to be 
 the most ancient in actual use. In- 
 cledon, the famous singer, born at 
 St. Kevern, in Cornwall, was for 
 some time a chorister here, under 
 Jackson, the composer and organist. 
 
 The removal of this screen, with 
 the organ above it, is a question 
 which has been discussed with great 
 animation. The substitution of a 
 metal screen of open work, such as 
 those at Hereford or at Lichfield, — 
 or the piercing of the closed side 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 1 .— Exeter : Cathedral . 
 
 21 
 
 arches, so that the choir might be 
 seen through them, — have both been 
 proposed. The final arrangement is 
 not at present (1872) decided. 
 
 The 3 western bays of the choir 
 were the work of Bp.Bytton (1292- 
 1307) ; the 4 beyond them, of Bp. 
 Walter de Stapledon (1308-1326). His 
 successor, Bp. Grandisson (1327- 
 1369), completed the choir (probably 
 finishing the roof) and dedicated the 
 high altar, Dec. 18, 1328. The E. 
 window was inserted by Bp. Bran- 
 tyngham about 1390. In architec- 
 tural character the choir differs 
 hardly at all from the nave. The two 
 narrow arches immediately within 
 the choir screen (the first within the 
 choir) were necessary in order to 
 adapt the new work or reconstruction 
 of the choir to the Norman walls of 
 the transepts — left standing, or un- 
 altered. Remark especially 
 
 (u) The roof-bosses and corbels. 
 The latter are even more admirable 
 in design, and more varied in foliage, 
 than those of the nave ; maple, oak, 
 ash, the filbert with its clusters of 
 nuts, and the vine with tendrils and 
 fruit, could hardly be reproduced 
 more faithfully. During the resto- 
 ration (1872) these corbels, the 
 capitals of the vaulting shafts, and 
 some of the roof bosses will be illu- 
 minated with gold and colour. 
 
 (6) The sedilia , with their very 
 rich and fine canopies, the work of 
 Bishop Stapledon. These sedilia 
 formed in truth the “ Cathedra 
 Domini Episcopi,” and are sometimes 
 mentioned as “ Lapis Leofrici,”— 
 “ Leofric’s Stone.” There was an 
 inscription (now illegible) on the 
 back, which seems to have referred 
 to the installation of Leofric, the 
 first bishop of Exeter, by Edward 
 the Confessor and his queen Ead- 
 gytha ; the king, in the words of the 
 charter, leading the bishop by one 
 arm and the queen by the other. 
 Within the recess of the centre sedile 
 is the mutilated head of a bishop, 
 
 and heads of a king and queen are 
 in those on either side. There are 
 three heads in the triforium above, 
 placed in the same order. The whole 
 may well have been a memorial — - 
 imitated perhaps by Bp. Stapledon 
 from one which existed before — of 
 the establishment of the episcopal 
 see at Exeter. 
 
 (c) The misereres or subsellia, 
 which have been cut down to fit 
 their present places. They are E.E. 
 of Bp. Marshall’s time (1194-1206), 
 and are the earliest in the kingdom. 
 Remark the armour of the knights — 
 their heater shields and flat helmets 
 —and the E. Eng. character of the 
 foliage. 
 
 (d) The episcopal throne, put to- 
 gether without a single nail, and 
 towering almost to the roof. It was 
 no doubt the work of Bp. Stapledon 
 (the bills for it have been found) — • 
 though it has been generally assigned 
 to Bp. Bothe— more than a century 
 later. During the rebellion it was 
 taken down and concealed. 
 
 (e) The E. vnndow, early Perp., 
 and filled with stained glass, most 
 of which is ancient and very fine. 
 Much of it dates from the first half 
 of the 1 4th centy. ; and was re- 
 moved from the earlier window. In 
 the lowest row are 9 figures of saints, 
 the three central ones of Bran- 
 tyngham’s time — the others of the 
 first period. In the middle row all 
 are Perp. The figure at the extreme 
 1. (looking E.) is St. Sidwell, or Sa- 
 tivola, a British maiden, said to have 
 been contemporary with St. Boniface 
 of Crediton (first half of 8th centy.). 
 She was beheaded by a mower near 
 a well outside the city walls ; and 
 the emblems which she holds refer 
 either to this, or make a rebus of her 
 name — “scythe-well.” In the up- 
 permost row the 3 figures of Abraham, 
 Moses, and Isaiah, are of the first 
 period. The heraldry above is 
 modern. The tone of colour 
 throughout the window is very fine 
 and solemn. 
 
22 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 (/) The monuments to be observed 
 in the choir are — on the N. side, the 
 tomb of Bp. Marshall , died 1206; 
 the medallions and E. Eng. foliage of 
 his tomb, and the ornament round 
 the neck of the cope, should be no- 
 ticed ; and the monument should be 
 compared with those of Bps. Bartho- 
 lomseus and Simon of Apulia in the 
 Lady Chapel;— and Bp. Walter de 
 Stapledon , murdered in 1325 by the 
 citizens of London, who rose on the 
 side of Queen Isabella. The king, 
 Edw. II., had left the city in charge 
 of the Bishop. The body was at first 
 interred in the sand near his own pa- 
 lace, “ without Temple Bar ;” but six 
 months later was brought to Exeter, 
 and solemnly buried by the Queen’s 
 command. The canopy is later than 
 the effigy, and was restored within 
 the present century. Under it, and 
 not visible except from within, is a 
 large figure of the Saviour ; and a 
 small figure of a king (Edw. II.) 
 climbs upward at the side towards 
 Him. On the sleeve of the effigy are 
 two keys addorsed — the arms of the 
 see as borne by Bp. Stapledon, who 
 founded Stapledon’s Inn at Oxford, 
 now “ Exeter College/' 
 
 The wood-work of the choir which, 
 with the exception of the misereres 
 and the bishop’s throne, was modern 
 and worthless, has been entirely re- 
 moved, and new stalls of very beauti- 
 ful design, harmonizing with the Dec. 
 character of the cathedral, are (1872) 
 in preparation. The reredos and 
 altar, designed by Kendall in 1818, 
 have disappeared ; and the arches, 
 opening from the choir to the ambu- 
 latory at the back, will now be re- 
 vealed in their full beauty. A 
 highly -enriched reredos, not rising 
 so high as to obstruct altogether the 
 view beyond it, has been designed 
 by Mr. Scott. The change from the 
 former condition of the choir, en- 
 cumbered by pews and with un- 
 sightly modern woodwork, to the 
 beauty and propriety which will be 
 everywhere presented when the re- I 
 
 storation shall have been completely 
 carried out, will be very great. 
 
 Opening from the N. choir aisle is 
 St. Andrew's Chapel , of early Dec. 
 character, and possibly the work of 
 Bp. Bronescombe (1257-1280). In a 
 chamber above are preserved the 
 archives of the see, the Fabric rolls, 
 the original of the Exon Domesday, 
 the volume of Saxon poetry be- 
 queathed to the cathedral by Bishop 
 Leofric, and known as the ‘ Codex 
 Exoniensis,’ and the Liber Pontifi- 
 calis of Bp. Lacey. Here, also, is 
 the original charter granted by the 
 Confessor to Leofric, and confirming 
 the removal of the see from Crediton 
 to Exeter (a.d. 1050). It is signed 
 by the two archbishops, by the great 
 Earl Godwin, and by his sons Har- 
 old, afterwards king, and Tostig. 
 Remark in this aisle a monument of 
 a knight, cross-legged, probably Sir 
 Richard de Stapledon, an elder 
 brother of Bp. Walter. At the end 
 of the aisle is the Chantry of St. 
 George , founded about 1518 by Sir 
 John Speke, of White Lackington in 
 Somersetshire. It is a mass of rich 
 carving. 
 
 E. of this aisle is St. Mary Mag- 
 dalene's Chapel , assigned to Bishop 
 Bronescombe , died 1280. The screen 
 between it and the aisle is of Perp. 
 character. A beautiful arcade, much 
 hidden by monuments, runs below 
 the windows. The stained glass in 
 the E. window dates from the 15th 
 centy. Here is a striking Elizabethan 
 monument for Sir Gawain Carew, 
 his wife, and his nephew Sir Peter 
 Carew. It is in 2 stages. The 
 cross-legged figure of Sir Peter is 
 unusual at that period. Both he 
 and Sir Gawain were active in sup- 
 pressing the Devonshire rising, temp. 
 Edw. VI. The monument has been 
 restored, in gold and colours, 
 with very good effect. A staircase 
 in the N.E. corner of this chapel 
 leads to the roof of the ambulatory 
 or eastern aisle, commanding the 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 1. — Exeter : Cathedral. 
 
 23 
 
 E. window of the choir, through 
 which a very fine view of the interior, 
 looking W., is obtained. 
 
 The E. aisle , between the choir and 
 Lady Chapel, is of early character, 
 and if it be not part of Bp. Brones- 
 combe’s work, it may possibly have 
 been constructed by Bp. Marshall 
 (1194-1206). Bp. Marshall, it ha& 
 been suggested, built the retrochoir 
 at the same time as he lengthened 
 the Norm, choir, thus “ completing ” 
 (as he is recorded to have done) the 
 cathedral. The piers supporting 
 the eastern arches (those at the back 
 of the choir) differ in section from the 
 others ; and the S. window of the re- 
 trochoir, with mere roundels, un- 
 cusped, in the tracery, has also been 
 supposed to indicate an earlier date 
 than Bronescombe. But it is not per- 
 fectly certain whether these roundels 
 have not been formerly cusped, or 
 even whether they are not quite late 
 insertions. The question can only 
 be decided from the architectural 
 evidence, since the actual share 
 which Marshall bore in the work is 
 nowhere recorded. This part of the 
 ch. has, however, to all appearance 
 been less altered than the choir, and 
 certainly presents some earlier fea- 
 tures. The retrochoir served for 
 the circulation of processions. The 
 beautiful effect of the arches which 
 formerly opened at the back of the 
 choir, hidden by the reredos of 1818, 
 will now (1872) be restored. 
 
 The Lady Chapel , used for early 
 morning service, is the work of 
 Bp. Bronescombe , d. 1280, completed 
 by his successor, Bp. Quivil, d. 
 1291. The windows oppose each 
 other, as in the nave; and it is to 
 be remarked, that the type of the 
 windows placed here by Bp. Quivil 
 is more or less followed throughout 
 the rest of the cathedral. The Lady 
 Chapel was in fact the beginning 
 of the series of works which trans- 
 formed or replaced the Norm. ch. 
 by that which we now see. 
 
 The Lady Chapel is included in 
 
 the restoration of 1871-2. The Pur- 
 beck shafts have been repaired where 
 necessary ; the reredos has been 
 brought into proper keeping with 
 the central compartment, which is 
 probably of Grandisson’s time ; a 
 very striking east window, by Clay- 
 ton and Bell , has been inserted — the 
 gift of the Rev. Chancellor Harring- 
 ton, and a memorial of his sister ; 
 and much colour has been applied 
 to the vaulting and to the reredos. 
 This has been done by Messrs. Clay- 
 ton and Bell, under the direction of 
 Mr. G. G. Scott, and the effect is 
 very good. Until the Lady Chapel 
 had been cleared and thus restored, 
 the great beauty of its details was 
 comparatively lost. In the centre of 
 the pavement is the tombstone of 
 Bp, Quivil, buried in the midst of his 
 work as was usual, with a cross and 
 the inscription, “ Petra tegit Petrum, 
 nihil officiat sibi tetrum.” It was re- 
 stored to this, its ancient place, and 
 the cross and letters were recut, in 
 1820. 
 
 On the S. side is the monument of 
 (probably) Bp. Bartholomceus Iscanus 
 (of Exeter), 1159-1184; he shone as 
 one of the two “ great lights of the 
 English Church,” as this bishop and 
 Bp. Roger of Worcester were called 
 by Pope Alexander III. ; remark the 
 beard and moustache worn by the 
 Norman prelate, and the high-peaked 
 mitre like a Norm, helmet. The 
 character of this effigy is so remark- 
 able that it has been suggested that 
 it may be of much earlier date than 
 Bp, Bartholomew, and may have 
 been a memorial of Leofric. But it 
 seems far more probable that its 
 rude and peculiar sculpture is due to 
 a local artist or school, such as that 
 which was working at this time at 
 Wells. The slab is of Purbeck, a 
 strong reason for assigning the 
 monument to a very late Norm, or 
 transitional period. Westward is 
 the effigy of Bp. Simon of Apulia 
 (1206-1224) ; the whole of his 
 vestments are richly jewelled ; the 
 
24 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Routt 1 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 design resembles that of Bp. Bar- 
 tholomseus’s effigy, but shows much 
 advance in art. On the N. side 
 are the effigies of Sir John and Lady 
 Doddridge. Sir John (d. 1628) was 
 one of James I/s judges of the 
 King's Bench. These will probably 
 be removed to a more appropriate 
 place, since they interfere greatly 
 with the character of the Lady 
 Chapel. 
 
 Under the arches opening to the 
 side chantries are the tombs with 
 effigies — S. of Bp. Bronescombe (1258- 
 1281), the son of an Exeter citizen, 
 as the inscription, now illegible, re- 
 corded : — 
 
 “Laudibus immensis jubilat gens Exoniensis, 
 Et chorus et turbae quod natus in hac fuit 
 urbe.” 
 
 He did much for the cathedral, as 
 we have seen. His fine effigy is of 
 his own time, but the canopy above 
 is Perp., and was probably construct- 
 ed at the same time with Bp. Staf- 
 ford’s monument opposite. N. is the 
 effigy of Bp. Stafford (1394-1419), 
 brother of Ralph Lord Stafford, twice 
 Lord Chancellor and Keeper of the 
 Great Seal, and the 2nd founder of 
 Exeter College, Oxford, to which he 
 gave its present name. His effigy, 
 very fine in all its details, has been 
 disgracefully used. The tabernacle- 
 work above it is rich and beauti- 
 ful. Remark the manner in which 
 these fine tombs are made to balance 
 each other, following the rule of the 
 cathedral. 
 
 St. Gabriel's Chapel , opening S. from 
 the Lady Chapel, resembles that on 
 the N. side, and was Bp. Brones- 
 combe’s work. St. Gabriel was his 
 patron saint, and the festival of the 
 Archangel was celebrated here with 
 great magnificence. Against the E. 
 wall is a monument by Flaxman to 
 Major-General Simcoe (d. 1806). 
 The Elizabethan high tomb of Sir 
 John and Lady Gilbert, and the me- 
 dallions of the Rev. John Fursman 
 (1727), his wife and daughter, may be 
 noticed. But the chief object of in- 
 
 terest here (out of place as it is) is 
 Chantrey’s almost living statue of 
 Northcote the painter, a native of 
 Devonshire. 
 
 The chantry opening from the last 
 bay of the S. wall is Bp. Oldham's 
 (1514-1519), joint founder, with Bp. 
 Fox of Winchester, of Corpus Christi 
 College, Oxford. It is rich in carving ; 
 and in the N.E. corner is the bishop’s 
 rebus — an owl with the word “ dom” 
 on a label (Old-ham). This chapel 
 has jeen restored by C. C. College, 
 and is overlaid with colour. 
 
 In the S. choir aisle are the effigies 
 of 2 cross-legged knights, temp. Edw. 
 I. They have been assigned to Sir 
 Humphrey de Bohun, and to a knight 
 of the Chichester family. Opening 
 from the centre of the aisle is the 
 Chapel of St. James , Early Dec., 
 and having against the S. wall a 
 beautiful Dec. monument, said to 
 have been erected (but this is un- 
 certain) as a memorial of Leofric, 
 the first bishop of Exeter. 
 
 On the exterior of the cathedral 
 the visitor should especially remark 
 the Norm, towers ; that S. is Norm, 
 throughout ; that N. was altered by 
 Bp. Courtenay, and its upper stages 
 are Perp. There can be little doubt 
 that these towers were designed as 
 much for defensive (or protective) 
 purposes as for any that can be 
 called ecclesiastical. They were in 
 fact castles of considerable strength, 
 with few or no external openings in 
 their lower stages. It is these towers ■ 
 which give to the cathedral what 
 has been called an “ uncouthness of 
 outline,” combined witli a “perfec- 
 tion of detail which makes it unique 
 among English churches.” — E . A. 
 Freeman. The outline is unques- 
 tionably peculiar ; but other obser- 
 vers have found in the transeptal 
 towers a noble arrangement, imaging 
 forth the most ancient gesture of 
 prayer — “ duplices tendens ad sidera 
 palmas.” Remark also the leaden 
 fleur-de-lis cresting of the roof ; the 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 1 . — Exeter : Rougemont Cash 
 
 flying buttresses, which derive a 
 very grand effect from the fact that 
 the aisle roofs slope outwards, and 
 not as usual inwards; and the N. 
 porch, part of Grandisson’s work, 
 and beautiful in details. 
 
 The Episcopal Palace, almost re- 
 built under Bishop Philpotts, con- 
 tains little of interest beyond an E. E. 
 arch of very early character, and a 
 chimneypiece in the hall, erected by 
 Bp. Courtenay, circ. 1486. 
 
 In the Deanery , on the S.W. of the 
 Cathedral, Charles II., William III., 
 and George III. lodged during their 
 visits to Exeter. A house on the N. 
 side of the Close retains a magnificent 
 bay window of Henry Vll.’s time, 
 and a fine ceiling of wood, with the 
 arms of Courtenay, the Stafford 
 Knot, & c. 
 
 The Palace and Deanery are of 
 course within the ancient Close, the 
 walls surrounding which were begun 
 about 1286. In 1283 the Precentor, 
 Walter Lechlade, had been murdered 
 in returning to his house from ma- 
 tins in the cathedral. In 1285 
 Edward I. and his queen kept 
 Christmas at Exeter, and a parlia- 
 ment was held here. At this time 
 the murder of the precentor was in- 
 vestigated, and a licence for enclos- 
 ing the precinct, so as to afford 
 security to the clergy, was granted. 
 The walls and gates of the Close 
 have long disappeared. It may be 
 added, that from the foundation of 
 the see the Chapter of Exeter has 
 consisted of a body of secular canons, 
 whose houses always stood within 
 the Close. 
 
 *Rougerwnt Castle was the ancient 
 citadel, which, built on an eminence, 
 commanded a view over the town and 
 its approaches. It now overlooks the 
 Queen Street Ely. Station. Tradi- 
 tion assigns its foundation (no doubt 
 untruly) to J ulius Csesar in the year 
 50 b.c., and derives its name (no 
 doubt accurately) from the red co- 
 lour of the soil and stones. It is 
 
 \Dex>. § Corn .] 
 
 built on a patch of red igneous rock, 
 portions of which are observed to 
 rest upon the edges of the older 
 rocks from Broadclyst as far as Exe- 
 ter; and in deeds of the 13th centy. 
 (among the Chapter Kecords) it is 
 described as “ rubeus mons extra 
 4>ortam aquilonarem civitatis Exo- 
 nise.” The first stronghold here was 
 no doubt British ; and it is probable 
 that the Eomans continued to occupy 
 it, although they certainly arranged 
 and inhabited a town below its walls, 
 on the sloping ground between the 
 castle and the river. Whether the 
 Eoman city was walled is not clear ; 
 but the castle-mound was no doubt 
 included within the great u wall of 
 squared stones ” with which Athel- 
 stan, either repairing a Eoman work 
 or constructing an entirely new one, 
 surrounded the city. The mound 
 and castle occupy a corner within the 
 city walls. There was apparently 
 no real “ castellum ” or structure of 
 stone here until after Exeter was 
 taken by the Conqueror in 1067. 
 With his usual policy he then 
 began the building of a fortress 
 which should overawe the town ; 
 and the charge of superintending 
 the new work, with the custody of 
 it, was bestowed upon Baldwin de 
 Brioniis, husband of the Conqueror’s 
 niece Albreda, with whose descend- 
 ants it remained (except during 
 some short intervals) down to the 
 year 1232. During the troubles of 
 Stephen’s reign it was held for Ma- 
 tilda by Baldwin de Eedvers, Earl 
 of Devon : but after a long siege it 
 was captured by the king, when all 
 the outer works were burnt ; “ the 
 besieged,” says , an old Chronicler 
 (‘ Gesta Stephani ’), “ being com- 
 pelled to throw even their supplies 
 of wine upon the flames in order to 
 extinguish them.” When Hen. III. 
 granted to his brother Eichard the 
 earldom of Cornwall, he added as an 
 appendage to that earldom the city 
 and castle of Exeter; and when 
 Edw. III. raised the earldom into a 
 
 c 
 
26 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 duchy (1337), the castle remained 
 attached to it. It was then regarded 
 as the “ Manorhouse or Mansion” 
 of the manor of Bradninch (see ante), 
 which was also a “ parcel ” of the 
 duchy. The Castle Close still re- 
 tains the title of the “ Precinct of 
 Bradninch.” In the reign of Hen. 
 IV. John Holland, Duke of Exeter, 
 had a fine mansion within its area, 
 but no traces of that building are now 
 to be seen ; and even as early as the 
 reign of Charles I. Rougemont was 
 described as “an old ruyning castle, 
 whose gaping chinks and aged coun- 
 tenance presageth a downfall ere 
 long.” Shakspeare represents Rich- 
 ard III. as having visited it, and 
 having here felt a presentiment of 
 his approaching fate: haunted by 
 the name of Richmond, the tyrant 
 exclaims — 
 
 “ Richmond !— when last I was at Exeter, 
 
 The mayor in courtesy show’d me the castle. 
 
 And call’d it Rouge-mont : at which name 
 I started, 
 
 Because a bard of Ireland told me once 
 
 I should not live long after I saw Rich- 
 t . mond.” 
 
 The mound of Exeter Castle should 
 be compared with the castle-mounds 
 at Totnes and at Plympton. These 
 also in all probability mark the site 
 of British strongholds, and are situ- 
 ated, like Exeter, at the head of 
 navigable estuaries. In all three in- 
 stances there was no regular keep; 
 but the mound itself was encircled 
 at the summit by a strong wall of 
 defence. The keep in fact only 
 occurs in two instances in England 
 (Oxford and Saffron Walden) in the 
 same fortress with the motte or 
 mound, — which from its great height 
 commanded the other defences quite 
 as effectually. At Exeter, the outer 
 wall of the castle (also the angular 
 wall of the city) was protected by a 
 very deep outer ditch ; and there was 
 another ditch toward the city itself. 
 The inner vallum of these ditches, 
 on which the surrounding wall was 
 built, may still be seen in part, en- 
 closing on two sides what is now 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 known as the Castle Yard. They rise 
 considerably above the area, and it 
 is far from improbable that they are, 
 to a great extent, the primitive British 
 earthworks, successively occupied by 
 Romans, English, and Normans. 
 They may be compared with the 
 ancient earthworks in which so many 
 of the great eastern and northern 
 castles stand — Castle Rising, Castle 
 Acre, Coningsburgh — and which were 
 retained for similar reasons. Of the 
 Norman castle the only considerable 
 portion is part of a gateway tower 
 on the side toward the town (at the 
 head of Castle Street). This, which 
 may be of late Norm, date, deserves 
 notice, and its arrangement is very 
 peculiar. There is a lofty round- 
 headed arch in front, at the back of 
 which narrow windows — loopholes 
 below, and larger above — open from 
 the tower. Within, these windows 
 are placed under triangular headings. 
 The arch in front may have been 
 intended as part of the tower de- 
 fences, since there is an open space 
 at the top between it and the tower, 
 to serve perhaps as a machicoule. 
 Some fragments of the walls, seen 
 from the walks on Northernhay, have 
 unquestionably a very antique cha- 
 racter, and answer sufficiently well to 
 the wall, “e quadratis lapidibus,” 
 with which Athelstan strengthened 
 the city. Whether they are really 
 entitled to claim so great an antiquity 
 must remain uncertain. Stukeley, 
 who visited the castle in 1723, says 
 (Itin. vi. p. 157) that a “narrow 
 cavity runs quite round its outer 
 wall, perhaps for the conveyance of 
 sound.” It is no longer possible to 
 trace this at Exeter : but such a 
 cavity certainly exists at Plympton 
 (see Rte. 7). A ch. ded. to St. 
 Mary and founded for 4 prebendaries 
 existed from a very early period 
 within the Castle Yard on the S. side. 
 It was removed in 1792. 
 
 In the area of the Castle Yard were 
 beheaded (Nov. 1483), Sir Thomas 
 St. Leger (who' had married the 
 
27 
 
 Devonshire. Route 1.* — Exeter : 
 
 Princess Anne, sister of Rich. III., 
 and Duchess of Exeter) and his 
 squire, Thomas Rame. — St. Leger 
 had joined the rising in favour of 
 Henry, the young Earl of Lancaster. 
 Rich. III., who had been crowned in 
 July of the same year, marched to 
 Exeter (where the Earl of Dorset had 
 proclaimed Henry), found that the 
 bishop, Peter Courtenay, and others 
 opposed to him had fled, — but seized 
 St. Leger, who was executed during 
 Richard’s stay at the episcopal palace. 
 In 1655, John Penruddocke and 
 Hugh Grove were beheaded here, 
 they having attempted a rising at 
 Salisbury in favour of Charles II. 
 They failed totally; and Penrud- 
 docke was soon taken near South 
 Molton in Devonshire. On the scaf- 
 fold he declared 44 the crime for 
 which I am now to die is Loyalty : 
 in this age called High Treason.” 
 
 One side of the area is occupied 
 by the Assize Hall and Sessions House , 
 built in 1774. The Crown Court 
 contains a picture of 4 4 the Acquittal 
 of Susanna,” painted by W. Brocke- 
 don, and presented by him to his 
 native county. In the area, in front 
 of the courts, is a full-length statue 
 of Hugh, Earl Fortescue, K.G., Lord- 
 Lieut. of Devon — died 1861. The 
 figure, which is draped in the robes 
 of the Garter, and is a 44 memorial 
 marking the love of friends and the 
 respect of all,” was erected in 1863. 
 It stands on . a pedestal of Dartmoor 
 granite, and is by E. B. Stephens, 
 A.R.A. 
 
 The view over the city from the end 
 of the mound on the opposite side of 
 the Castle Yard, is very striking. Hal- 
 don and distant hills are seen beyond. 
 Under the castle, on this side, lay 
 the old county gaol — removed about 
 1796. It is described as “a sink of 
 filth, pestilence, and profligacy ” and 
 at the assizes of 1585, the judge 
 (Flowerby), 11 of the jury, and 5 
 magistrates died of gaol fever, — a 
 catastrophe which nevertheless it 
 took two centuries to 4 4 improve.” 
 
 .* Public Buildings . 
 
 The pleasure-grounds of Rougemont 
 Lodge (Mrs. Richard Gard), adjoin- 
 ing the Castle Gate— -the stranger 
 will be admitted on presenting his 
 card — contain ivied walls adjoining 
 the ancient entrance, and the most 
 perfect part of the castle mound, 
 which is tastefully laid out as a ter- 
 race walk. 
 
 The promenade called Northern- 
 hay (the Northern enclosure — haia , 
 hege — (see the note on the termina- 
 tion 44 hayes ” in Rte. 3 ; Southernhay 
 is the quarter on the opposite side of 
 the High Street) is under the castle 
 wall, where the fosse was filled up 
 and the sloping bank was levelled 
 and planted in 1612. This walk has 
 been improved from time to time. 
 It is a favourite lounge with the 
 inhabitants, and embraces an exten- 
 sive view over the river, the railway 
 stations, and the picturesque suburbs 
 of the city, N. and W. Here are 
 held horticultural shows during the 
 summer, and here are placed 2 guns 
 captured from the Russians. A full- 
 length statue of the late Sir Thomas 
 Acland (died 1871), by Stephens , a 
 native of Exeter, was placed here in 
 the winter ofl861-2. It represents Sir 
 Thomas, very successfully, 44 in his 
 habit, as he lived.” On the granite 
 pedestal in front are the words, — 
 44 Praesenti tibi maturos largimur 
 honores.” On the opposite side runs 
 an inscription — 44 Erected as a tri- 
 bute of affectionate respect for pri- 
 vate worth and public integrity, and 
 in testimony of admiration for the 
 generous heart and open hand which 
 have been ever ready to protect the 
 weak, to relieve the needy, and to 
 succour the oppressed, of whatever 
 party, race, or creed.” Sir Thomas 
 Acland was for many years M.P. for 
 North Devon ; and few Devonshire 
 44 worthies ” are remembered with 
 greater reverence and regret. A short 
 distance below is a seated figure 
 of Mr. Dinham, founder of the 
 ‘ 6 free cottages ” on Mount Dinham, 
 .whose charity was conspicuous dur- 
 c 2 
 
28 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 ing his life, and who was indebted 
 for his position to his own conduct 
 and exertions. This statue is also 
 by Stephens, A.R. A., and was erected 
 in 186(3. On the lap is an open Bible, 
 with the text below — “ This book of 
 the law shall not depart out of thy 
 mouth, but thou shalt meditate 
 therein day and night ; for then thou 
 shalt make thy way prosperous, and 
 then thou shalt have good success.’’ 
 The statue was “ erected by the 
 citizens of Exeter in memory of his 
 piety, integrity, and charity.” 
 
 Queen Street Station, immediately be- 
 low Northernhay, is that for the South 
 Western, and North Devon and Ex- 
 mouth railways. Beyond and above 
 the station is the County Gaol and 
 Bridewell . On the site of Danes’ 
 Castle, at the back of this gaol, is 
 the reservoir for the supply of the 
 city. Near the station is the Victoria 
 Hall , a large hall without architec- 
 tural pretensions, capable of holding 
 2000 persons, and built before the 
 meeting of the British Association at 
 Exeter in 1869. 
 
 * Mount Diiiham , where are St. Mi- 
 chael's Churchy the Episcopal Charity 
 Schools, and a group of 40 free cot- 
 tages , is approached from North 
 Street. This is one of the most plea- 
 sing sights in Exeter. The Mount 
 should be visited for the sake of the 
 fine view commanded from it. The 
 grounds lie along the top of a steep 
 bank rising immediately above the 
 Exe; and have been well and hand- 
 somely laid out. The Episcopal Cha- 
 rity Schools , founded by Bp. Black- 
 hall, (1708-1716) in a lower part 
 of the city, were removed to this 
 site in 1860. Soon afterwards the 
 remainder of the open space here 
 was bought by Mr. Dinham — whose 
 statue has been worthily placed on 
 Northernhay (see ante)-- who built 
 on it 24 cottages, to be occupied, 
 free of rent, by deserving persons; 
 and 16 more were added by othef 
 
 contributors. The Church of St. Michael 
 and All Angels , at the S. end of the 
 schools, was built at the sole cost 
 of William Gibbs, Esq., of Tyntes- 
 field (Hawkins, archit.). Its dimen- 
 sions are somewhat stunted and com- 
 pressed, owing to want of space ; but 
 the tower and spire are fine, and 
 there is much good sculpture within 
 and without the building. The ar- 
 rangement of the W. end (within) is 
 excellent. The whole ch. has much 
 of the character of French Gothic, 
 circa 1200. It is always open, ex- 
 cept for an hour in the middle of the 
 day, and well deserves a visit. In 
 the boys’ schoolroom is a portrait of 
 Bp. Blackhall. The cottages are ar- 
 ranged in groups, with walks, and 
 broad spaces of turf, planted with 
 shrubs, between them. 
 
 * The Elizabethan facade of the 
 Guildhall, crumbling and venerable, 
 is the principal ornament of High 
 Street. The Hall, which is always 
 open — strangers have only to walk 
 in — was rebuilt (on the site of the 
 original Guildhall of the city) in 
 1466 ; and had a chapel, ded. to S. 
 George and S. John the Baptist, 
 in front of it. This was probably 
 pulled down in 1593, when the ex- 
 isting front was built. (About 20 
 years before, the Town-hall of Co- 
 logne was refaced in a similar man- 
 ner.) The hall (62 \ ft. long by 
 25 ft. broad) has been restored and 
 renovated ; the roof, with its curious 
 brackets (figures bearing large staves) 
 is good. The wall below is orna- 
 mented with the armorial bearings 
 of mayors, incorporated trades, and 
 benefactors of Exeter. Here are the 
 following pictures (only to be seen, 
 however, when the sun is shining 
 powerfully — and not well then): — 
 Chief- Justice Pratt, afterwards Lord 
 Chancellor, and Earl Camden (died 
 1794) by Thomas Hudson, the master 
 of Sir J. Reynolds; Benjamin Heath, 
 Town Clerk of Exeter, d. 1766 (copy), 
 by Pine; Gen. Monk, by Sir Peter 
 
 
 3 
 
Devonshire. Route 1 . — Exeter : Public Buildings . 
 
 29 
 
 Lely (engraved for Lodge’s Por- 
 traits); John Rolle Walter, M.P. for 
 Exeter, 1754-1776, copy from Sir 
 Joshua; the original is at Bicton; 
 George II., Hudson; Reuben Phil- 
 lipps, citizen of Exeter, Sharland ; 
 John Tuckfield, M.P. for Exeter, 
 
 1745-1766, and founder of the Hos- alterations. The mounting of that 
 
 pital here, Hudson; Princess Henri- 
 etta, daughter of Charles I., after- 
 wards Duchess of Orleans (born in 
 Exeter, 1644), Sir P. Lely — this 
 picture was presented to the city by 
 Charles II. in 1672; and Henry 
 Blackball, thrice Mayor of Exeter (d. 
 1845), Leaky . These pictures are all 
 full-lengths. In the Council Chamber 
 (above), where there is plenty of light, 
 are portraits of — William Hurst, 
 1568, set. 96; Joan Tuckfield, 1573 ; 
 John Periam, Kt. (d. 1616). He was 
 the father of Sir William Periam, a 
 very able lawyer, and Ch. Baron, 
 whose monument is in Crediton ch. 
 (Rte. 17). The painter has given 
 him a ferocious and savage expres- 
 sion. This picture was copied by 
 Gandy for Exeter College, Oxford. 
 Sir Thomas White, one of the foun- 
 ders of St. John’s College, Oxford 
 (d. 1566). John Hoker, Chamberlain 
 of Exeter, set. 76. Hoker was the 
 historian of the city (b. 1524, d. 
 1601), and uncle of the “Judi- 
 cious” Hooker, who was born at 
 Heavitree ; Walter Borough ; Law - 
 rence At will ; Thomas Jefford (d. 
 1703), a Avealthy dyer of Exeter; 
 Elizabeth Elay (d. 1673), widow of 
 an Exeter apothecary, who founded 
 almshouses in Goldsmith Street. 
 Remark the rich dress, ruff, and 
 cuffs. She wears a large black hat. 
 Nicholas Duck, Recorder, and M.P. 
 for Exeter, d. 1617 (the best picture 
 here) ; and Sir Benjamin Oliver, 
 knighted when Mayor by Charles II., 
 on his passing through the city from 
 Dartmouth. The portrait of this 
 worthy is strongly suggestive of 
 port-wine and gout. 
 
 In the Guildhall are kept the city 
 
 ward IV. visited Exeter in 1470, and 
 gave his sword to the city. Henry 
 VII. in 1497 also gave his sword, 
 with a cap of maintenance, in recog- 
 nition of the resistance made by the 
 citizens to Perkin Warbeck’s army. 
 These swords have received some 
 
 of Edw. IV. dates from the reign of 
 Charles II., when the sword was co- 
 vered with black crape to be carried 
 always in procession to the cathedral 
 on the 30th of January, The sword 
 of Hen. VII. was altered in the time 
 of James I., one of whose coins ap- 
 pears on the pommel : but Sir Samuel 
 Meyrick was convinced not only that 
 both swords were genuine, but that 
 they were the only swords of the 
 earlier English kings in existence. 
 The cap of maintenance was covered 
 with new velvet in 1634. These civic 
 treasures are only to be seen by spe- 
 cial permission. 
 
 * The Albert Memorial Museum in 
 
 Queen Street is a very striking build- 
 ing, and the greatest ornament which 
 of late years has been added to the 
 city. Its general character is Early 
 French Gothic, and it is perhaps the 
 best work of its architect, Hayward , 
 of Exeter. After the death of the 
 Prince Consort in 1861, it was de- 
 termined that a “Museum of Art 
 and Science ” should be established in 
 Exeter, where it was greatly needed, 
 as a Memorial. A site, valued at 
 2000^., was presented by the late 
 R. S. Gard, Esq., M.P. for Exeter, 
 and was afterwards increased by 
 purchase. A large sum was raised 
 by subscription, and the first stone 
 of the new Museum Avas laid by 
 Mr. Gard in 1865. The building, 
 which is of considerable size, com- 
 prises a school of art, a school of 
 science, a good free library, a read- 
 ing room, and a museum of natural . 
 history and antiquities. To a great ex- 
 tent, Devonshire materials have been 
 used in its construction. The outer 
 
 SAvords and cap of maintenance. Ed- j Avails are of trap from Pocombe, the 
 
30 
 
 lioute 1 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 inner of conglomerate from Heavi- 
 tree. The limestone dressings are 
 from Chudleigh ; the window shafts 
 of red sandstone from near Taunton. 
 'The polished pillars of red granite 
 are from Aberdeen ; and the marbles 
 of the interior are from Ipplepen 
 and Plymouth. Nearly 15,000/. has 
 been expended, including the cost 
 of that part of the site which was 
 purchased. 
 
 The large room on the rt. is in- 
 tended to contain a complete col- 
 lection of local “economic” geology 
 — building stones, ores, and various 
 products. The sandstones, marbles, 
 slates, and granites from different 
 parts of Devon and Cornwall are 
 well represented, and will repay at- 
 tention. Here are also specimens of 
 local china clay, and ores from the 
 west country mines. Arranged in 
 this and in other rooms is a large 
 collection of birds, mammals, rep- 
 tiles, and fishes, formed by F. W. S. 
 Ross, Esq. of Topsham (d. 1860), and 
 presented to the Museum by his 
 widow. The birds are especially 
 good, and many of them were col- 
 lected on the estuary of the Exe. Re- 
 mark a specimen of the giant black- 
 headed or Caspian gull ( Larus ichthy- 
 cetus ) shot at Exmouth in May, 1859 
 — the only recorded instance of its 
 occurrence in the British Islands. 
 All are well arranged and labelled. 
 Another very valuable gift consists 
 of 40 cases, filled with 3500 speci- 
 mens of Indian insects, collected by 
 Col. Graham near Benares and 
 Dacca, and presented by his widow. 
 Prof. Westwood has pronounced this 
 “ a very important collection, con- 
 taining many species of the great- 
 est rarity, and several interesting 
 uniques.” — The small Ethnological 
 room contains some good examples. 
 An inlaid Chinese bedstead, with 
 panels filled with painted gauze, is 
 curious. In the upper rooms , besides 
 specimens of natural history, are — 
 a case of ancient and modern Devon- 
 shire laces, the gift of Mrs. Treadwin 
 
 — a case of specimens illustrating 
 the blue-clay deposit and submerged 
 forest in Bideford Bay (antlers of 
 deer, flint flakes, portions of trees, 
 and hazel-nuts). Cases of very inter- 
 esting antiquities from barrows on 
 Broad Down near Honiton, opened 
 by the Rev. R. Kirwan. These were 
 presented by Sir Edmund Prideaux. 
 (The barrows, and the discoveries 
 made in them, are described in 
 Rte. 3 — Exc. from Honiton). Re- 
 mark especially an unique drinking 
 cup — probably of Kimmeridge shale 
 — a small “ incense cup ” containing 
 bones — fragments of pottery, perhaps 
 thrown on the corpse before the bar- 
 row was piled over it, — and pieces 
 of iron haematite, used probably for 
 war paint. Here also are slingstones 
 from ancient camps in E. Devon; 
 many bronze blades, palstaves, spear- 
 heads, and celts, all from Devon- 
 shire (including 4 from the remark- 
 able find near Plymstock), and some 
 other antiquities. It is hoped that 
 the establishment of this Museum 
 will prevent the loss or dispersion 
 of many valuable antiquities, always 
 more interesting in their own dis- 
 trict than elsewhere, and for which 
 a satisfactory resting-place is now 
 provided. 
 
 On the wall of the large room up- 
 stairs remark a sun-fish ( Ortliagoriscus 
 mola ) taken at Seaton, 1871 ; and an 
 eagle ray ( Myliobatis aquila ), taken 
 in Torbay, 1871. 
 
 On the staircase is a statue of the 
 Prince Consort (by Stephens') in his 
 robes as Chancellor of Cambridge ; 
 and on the landing above is a bust 
 of Mr. Ross, the naturalist, by Dur- 
 ham. In the gallery are hung many 
 proof engravings by Cousins — a na- 
 tive of Exeter — who presented many 
 of them. 
 
 The rooms appropriated to the 
 School of Art (established 1855, and 
 removed here after the building of 
 the Museum) are on the 1. side of the 
 building. In the principal room is 
 a large picture by John Cross of 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 1 . — Exeter : Churches. 
 
 31 
 
 Tiverton (b. 1819, d. 1861). He was 
 deaf and dumb ; and is mentioned 
 by Northcote and others with much 
 praise. This picture represents the 
 burial of the Princes in the Tower, 
 1483. It is far from bad, though a 
 Witney blanket in the foreground 
 somewhat interferes with the “ archae- 
 ology .” 
 
 Below is a large public lending 
 Library of 9500 volumes ; and a 
 spacious reading room, in which is 
 placed the original cast by Behnes 
 for the full-length statue of Sir Wil- 
 liam Follett, in Westminster Abbey. 
 Follett died in 1845, M.P. for Exeter; 
 and this cast was th% gift of his 
 brother. He was born at Topsham. 
 There is an indifferent picture by 
 Opie — the death of Virginia — in the 
 library. 
 
 Exeter contains 21 parish churches , 
 besides numerous chapels. None of 
 these are of very great importance ; 
 but the following (besides St. Michael's , 
 already described), possess some in- 
 terest for the stranger : — St. Stephen's 
 (High Street) and St. John's (Fore 
 Street) have ancient crypts, by some 
 reputed Saxon. That in St. Stephen's 
 however is certainly Trans. Norm. 
 It is under the chancel arch, and was 
 discovered in 1826, when the ch. 
 was altered. The present ch. dates 
 from 1664. Allhattows on the Walls 
 (Bartholomew Yard), a good modern 
 ch. from the plans of Hayward (1845); 
 St. James's , a poor modern ch. (1836), 
 with inferior stained glass. The 
 pulpit once belonged to the cathedral, 
 and is said to have been taken in a 
 Spanish ship, temp. Eliz. : St. Law- 
 rence's (High Street), with oak 
 screen, and over the doorway a 
 statue of Queen Eliz., which once 
 adorned a. conduit in High Street; 
 the altar-piece (in plaster) was de- 
 signed by the sculptor Bacon, 1846 ; 
 the ch. has been well restored: St. 
 Martin's (Cath. Yard), believed to 
 date in part from 1065, but chiefly 
 Perp. ; St. Mary Arches (street of 
 
 same name), containing old monu- 
 ments, and so called (possibly) from 
 its Norman piers (S. Maria cle Ar- 
 cubus. St. Mary le Bow is the name 
 of the ch. in London wherein the 
 chief court of the Abp. of Canter- 
 bury — (hence called the “Court of 
 Arches ") — was formerly held). The 
 origin of the name is not certain. St. 
 Mary Arches Ch. has been carefully 
 repaired. St. Mary Major's, or St. 
 Mary Michel ( micel , A.-S. great) (Cath. 
 Yard), was rebuilt in 1866 in an 
 unsatisfactory quasi E. Eng. style. 
 The spire is heavy and ungraceful. 
 Some fragments of a Roman tesselated 
 pavement were found during the 
 removal of the old ch., which had a 
 Norman tower, and over the N. 
 entrance a figure of St. Lawrence 
 on a gridiron; the noise of the 
 weathercock surmounting the spire 
 of this church so much disturbed 
 the Princess Catherine of Arragon 
 (who, after her first landing at Ply- 
 mouth in 1501, proceeded thence to 
 Exeter, where she remained 2 nights 
 at the Deanery) that it was taken 
 down : St. Mary Steps (West Street) ; 
 in the tower is an antique clock with 
 3 figures, popularly called Matthew 
 the miller and his 2 sons ; the cen- 
 tral figure representing Hen. VIII. ; 
 the local rhyme respecting these 
 figures runs — 
 
 “ Adam and Eve would never believe, 
 
 That Matthew the miller was dead, 
 
 For every hour in Westgate tower 
 Matthew the miller nods his head.” 
 
 This small Perp. ch., which is 
 curiously placed on a steep descent, 
 so that it is entered by a flight of 
 steps, passing into the nave, has been 
 restored, and the interior painted in 
 oil. There is a Norm. font. St. 
 Olave's (Fore Street), Perp. given by 
 Will. I., after the siege of Exeter in 
 1067, to Battle Abbey, and after the 
 Edict of Nantes to the French 
 Refugees; it was perhaps founded 
 in the days of Canute ; Gytha, the 
 mother of Harold, bestowed land on 
 this church for the benefit of her 
 
32 
 
 ! Sect. I. 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 husband, Godwin’s, soul. (Cod. 
 Dip. iv. 264). St. Petrock’s (Cath. 
 Yard), containing among the sa- 
 cramental plate vessels dated 1572, 
 1640, and 1692 : St. Sidwell’s , a 
 modern Gothic edifice, but the pil- 
 lars dividing nave and aisles are part 
 of the original building ; the capitals 
 of these pillars are decorated with 
 figures of St. Sidwella and angels, 
 and the pulpit is a rich specimen of 
 carved-work ; the tomb and shrine 
 of St. Sativola or Sidwella (a con- 
 temporary of St. Boniface, — Winfred 
 of Crediton), and only known by a 
 reference to her in the 4 Martyrologia ’ 
 of the cathedral, were reverenced 
 here before the Reformation : St. 
 Thomas the Apostle (Co wick Street, 
 in the suburb beyond the river), con- 
 taining a monument by Bacon to the 
 memory of his daughter, Mrs. Med- 
 ley, whose husband, the present Bp. 
 of Fredericton, was for some years 
 vicar of this parish. On the tower of 
 this ch. Welsh, the vicar, was hanged 
 after the Devonshire rebellion of 
 1549. He was, says Hoker, who 
 wrote at the time, 44 a very good 
 wrestler ; shot well both in the long- 
 bow and also in the cross-bow ; he 
 handled his hand- gun and piece very 
 well ; he was a very good woodman 
 and a hardy, and such an one as 
 would not give his head for the 
 polling, nor his beard for the wash- 
 ing; he was a companion in any 
 exercises of activity, and of a cour- 
 teous and gentle behaviour.” .... 
 Welsh, when the rising, which he 
 had actively encouraged, had been 
 suppressed, was “brought to the 
 place, and by a rope about his 
 middle, drawn up to the top of the 
 tower, and there in chains hanged in 
 his Popish apparel .... and there 
 he remained a long time.” (Hoker’s 
 account of this 44 Commotion ” is 
 printed in Holinshed.) St. David's , 
 consec. 1847, on the site of an ancient 
 ch. has little to recommend it. Ex- 
 v:ick Chapel (across the river), built 
 in 1842, is of Dec. character. 
 
 It cannot be said that any of these 
 churches possess high interest. They 
 are for the most part very small, and 
 are crowded among houses, so that in 
 some instances only a small part of 
 the church is visible. The only 
 churches which rise conspicuously 
 above the roofs of the city are St. 
 Michael’s, with its beautiful spire, 
 seen rt. as the train passes from St. 
 David’s to Queen Street stat., and on 
 the hill 1. in passing from Exeter 
 westward ; St. Mary Major , adjoining 
 and grouping (not always pleasantly) 
 with the cathedral and its towers ; 
 St. Thomas’s , and St. Sidwell’s. These, 
 with the exception of St. Thomas’s 
 lower, are all of recent date. A new 
 Congregational Church with a lofty 
 spire, has been built (1869) in 
 Southernhay, and by its varied lines 
 greatly relieves the somewhat sombre 
 aspect of that part of the city. Its 
 details are not altogether to be com- 
 mended ; but the spire may be com- 
 pared, greatly to its advantage, with 
 that of St. Mary Major. There is 
 only one monument of earlier date 
 than 1600 in all the parish churches 
 of Exeter. This is in St. Mary 
 Arches, and is an altar-tomb (for 
 whom is unknown) temp. Hen. VII. 
 
 The Hospital or 44 God’s House ” 
 of William Wynard , 3rd Recorder of 
 Exeter, founded by him in 1436 for 
 12 poor men and a chaplain, is in 
 Magdalen Street. The quiet court 
 with its low houses is worth looking 
 into ; and the Chapel , admirably 
 restored (Ashworth, archit.) by the 
 patron, the late G. G. Kennaway, 
 Esq., is interesting. The windows 
 are by Hughes and Ward. Remark 
 the broad chancel arch, almost of 
 Norm, character. The wall decora- 
 tions at the E. end are graceful ; and 
 on the floor is a modern Brass for G. 
 G. Kennaway, d. 1867, set. 46, 4< the 
 cheerful restorer of this ancient 
 chapel and God’s House.” He holds 
 a model of the chapel in his arm, 
 and from the other hand hangs the 
 map of an estate left by him to the 
 
Devonshire. Route 1.-— Exeter * Hall of the Priest- Vicars: 33 
 
 hospital. The Chapel of St, Anne , a 
 small Perp. building in St. Sidwell’s 
 Street, has a good reredos. 
 
 In St. Thomas’s was Cowick Priory , 
 of which even the site is uncertain. 
 It was given by William Fitz-Baldwin, 
 temp. Hen. II., to the famous Abbey 
 of Bee in Normandy — from whence 
 came Lanfranc, the Conqueror’s Abp. 
 of Canterbury, — and a cell of Bene- 
 dictines was established here. On 
 the suppression of alien Priories, 
 temp. Hen. V., Cowick was seized by 
 the crown, but was restored soon 
 afterwards. In 1 46 1 Robert of Rouen 
 resigned the Priory, which was 
 assigned, with its endowments, to the 
 newly established King’s College, 
 Cambridge, from which it afterwards 
 passed to Tavistock Abbey. 
 
 Besides the churches, the Grammar 
 School and the Hall of the Priest- 
 Vicars are worth notice. The Gram- 
 mar School occupies the ancient 
 buildings of St. John’s Hospital , 
 founded at a very early time for 5 
 priests, 9 boys, and 12 almsmen, and 
 suppressed in the reign of Hen. 
 VIII. The structure encloses a 
 quadrangle, and besides a free gram- 
 mar school, there are here a “ blue 
 ccat” school, and one in which a 
 commercial education is afforded. 
 The Hospital has been perfectly re- 
 stored by the Ch. Charity trustees, 
 after plans by Macintosh. Over a 
 doorway on the other side of High 
 Street, opposite the Grammar School, 
 is a statue of Hen. VII., arrayed as 
 a Roman. It originally stood in a 
 niche over the inner entrance of E. 
 gate, rebuilt in 1511, the old gate 
 having been shattered by the assault 
 of Perkin Warbeck in 1497. 
 
 The Hall of the College of Priest- 
 Vicars (entered from South Street) 
 was built by Bishop Brentynqham 
 (1370-1394). The “ College,” which 
 was entered from the Cathedral 
 Close, resembled that of Wells in 
 its arrangement, and was a long 
 narrow enclosure, with the houses 
 
 of the Priest-Vicars on either side, 
 having gardens in front, and the 
 Common Hall across the S.W. end, 
 — a gateway being across the N. end. 
 The kitchen was N. of the hall, but 
 was pulled down in 1871 to make 
 way* for a shop. The hall is inter- 
 esting. Across the W. end is a 
 screen, the upper panels of which 
 are painted with figures of ancient 
 bishops. The hall is used as a 
 place of meeting by the Exeter Dio- 
 cesan Architectural Society , and con- 
 tains (besides a fine old table of 
 carved oak) models of fonts, rub- 
 bings of brasses, and a number of 
 drawings relating to ecclesiology. 
 Here also is an unknown por- 
 trait by Sir Joshua Reynolds , and 
 one of the Rev. Tobias Langdon by 
 William Gandy , a painter who was 
 little known beyond Devonshire, but 
 whose works were greatly admired 
 by Sir Godfrey Kneller and Sir 
 J oshua Reynolds. His father, James 
 Gandy, also a painter, had been in- 
 structed by Vandyck; and some of 
 his copies from that master have 
 been sold as originals. The son, 
 who had far more genius, lived a 
 wandering life in Devonshire, and 
 was very “ untractable and proud,” 
 according to Northcote, who says that 
 Sir Joshua “ in all his early practice 
 evidently adopted Gandy’s manner 
 in regard to painting the head, and 
 retained it in some degree ever 
 after” (‘Life of Sir J. R.,’ p. 16). 
 Gandy’s were the first good portraits 
 seen by Sir J oshua before he went to 
 London ; and he told Northcote that 
 he had seen one or two equal to 
 those of Rembrandt. Wm. Gandy 
 died and was buried at Exeter. Sir 
 Godfrey Kneller, being once at 
 Exeter, was shown this portrait of 
 Tobias Langdon, and enquired with 
 astonishment who was the artist 
 capable of painting it. “Good 
 God!” he exclaimed, when he was 
 told that the painter was in great 
 poverty, “ why does he bury his 
 talent in the country ? It would be 
 c 3 
 
34 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter * 
 
 amply repaid in London.” Other 
 portraits by Gandy in Exeter are — 
 a full-length of Sir Edward Seaward , 
 Mayor of Exeter (1702), in St. 
 Anne’s Chapel (St. Sidwell Street) ; 
 and John Patch , senior, surgeon, in the 
 board room of the Devon and Exeter 
 Hospital. 
 
 This Hospital , in Southernhay, was 
 founded by the exertions of Dr. Alu- 
 red Clarke, Dean of Exeter (1740), 
 who had already established a public 
 hospital at Winchester. In the board 
 room, besides the portrait by Gandy, 
 is one of Dean Clarke ; of John 
 Tuckfield, donor of the site, by 
 Hudson ; Dr. Dicker and Ralph Allen 
 builder of Prior Park, near Bath, 
 both by Hudson ; John Patch, junior, 
 and Thomas Glass, both b y James Opie. 
 
 The Devon and Exeter Institution, 
 
 in the Cathedral Yard, founded in 
 1813, contains a large and valuable 
 library ; a few indifferent paintings, 
 and a good model of Exeter. 
 
 A Benedictine Priory, founded by 
 the Abbot of Battle, to whom the 
 Conqueror had given St. Olaf’s 
 Church in Exeter, existed in what, 
 is now called Mint Lane, S. of the 
 High St. Its site is now partly oc- 
 cupied by a R.C. chapel, and attached 
 buildings. In 1695, when the cur- 
 rency had become greatly depre- 
 ciated, a very large re-coinage of 
 silver was determined on; and be- 
 sides 19 mills in the Tower of Lon- 
 don, mints were established at York, 
 Chester, Norwich, Bristol, and Exe- 
 ter. The Exeter coinage is distin- 
 guished by the letter E in the 
 exergue. The Mint was in Hele’s 
 Hospital, St. Mary Arches (after- 
 wards Mint) Lane. 
 
 Among other buildings and insti- 
 tutions the stranger may be interest- 
 ed by the Market-houses, 2 modern 
 erections in Fore Street and Queen 
 Street ; — the Deaf and Dumb Institu- 
 tion (in the S.E. suburb, near the 
 banks of the river on the Topsham 
 road), founded in 1826, and open to 
 
 visitors on Tuesdays and Fridays ; 
 
 — the Institution for the Blind (on St. 
 David’s Hill, beyond North Street), 
 founded in 1838, and shown daily, 
 except on Saturdays and Sundays ; 
 
 — the Diocesan Training College and. 
 School on the Heavitree Road (Hay- 
 ward, arcliit.); — and the Female Be - 
 formatory in Black Boy Road. 
 
 The first bridge over the Exe was 
 built by Walter Gervase, a “ notable 
 man of God,” as Hoker describes 
 him, circ. 1240. He had been twice 
 Mayor ; and was buried in a chantry 
 which he had founded on his new 
 bridge. (When the chantry was 
 taken down in 1833, his skeleton 
 was found.) This bridge, which had 
 14 arches, remained in use [for more 
 than 5 centuries ; but it was narrow, 
 the approaches to it were inconve- 
 nient, and it was replaced in 1778 by 
 that which now exists. 
 
 In the cheerful and picturesque 
 High Street (the same street is known 
 as High St. above the crossing of N. 
 and S. streets, and Fore St. below) 
 are some remarkable old houses which 
 well deserve notice. There are also 
 some in North St. and in South St. 
 which will repay a visit. All are of 
 Elizabethan cha r acter, except one at 
 the corner of North St., which is of 
 the 15th century. At the angle be- 
 tween High St. and North St. is a 
 niche with a colossal wooden figure, 
 representing St. Peter (the patron of 
 the city) in the act of treading on 
 paganism, — represented by a turbaned 
 negro. Tucker' s Hall, on Fore-St. 
 
 Hill, now appropriated by the Free- 
 masons, was an ancient chapel. : 
 There is a very fine moulded ceiling 
 at Messrs. Green & Son’s, silk mer- 
 cers, 25, High St. This house was 
 formerly the principal inn of Exeter, 
 and the room in which is the ceiling 
 was the “Apollo Room,” used by the 
 Exeter Freemasons for their meet- 
 ings. The ceiling was begun in 
 Oct. 1 689, and Thos. Lane, “ plas- 
 terer,” received 50/. for the work. 
 North St. passes down a steep hill to 
 
Devonshire. Route 1 . — Exeter Ship Canal. 35 
 
 an iron bridge or viaduct of 6 arches, 
 a useful work, erected by the Exeter 
 Improvement Commissioners at a 
 cost of 35001. 
 
 The Nursery Grounds in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Exeter have been very 
 celebrated, — the climate and the 
 nature of the soil being peculiarly: 
 favourable to vegetation. But the 
 great establishment of the Messrs. 
 Veitch, on the Topsham Road, has 
 been broken up, owing to the death of 
 its principal, Mr. James Veitch ; and 
 Mr. R. Veitch has a new and smaller 
 nursery (worth visiting) in the New 
 North Road. At Luccombe and Pined s, 
 on the road to Alphington, there is a 
 remarkable camellia-house, which at 
 the flowering season (Jan. and Feb.) 
 is worth a long journey to see. Some 
 of the camellias, planted in open 
 soil, are trees of very great size. 
 
 The Exeter Ship Canal , which 
 floats the produce of foreign climes 
 to this ancient city, deserves the 
 notice of the stranger as one of the 
 oldest canals in England. (The only 
 work of the sort which, in this 
 country, exceeds it in antiquity, is 
 Morton's Leam , a canal running from 
 near Peterborough to the sea, for 
 about 40 m., and constructed by 
 John Morton, Bp. of Ely, temp. 
 Hen. VII. This was intended for 
 the drainage of the fens as well as 
 for navigation.) In early times the 
 river flowed deep with the tide as 
 high as Exeter; but in 1284 it was 
 closed to salt-water and sea-going 
 vessels at Topsham, by the erec- 
 tion of a weir, the work of Isa- 
 bella de Redvers, Countess of Devon 
 (whence Countess Weir), who thus 
 revenged herself upon the citizens 
 for some affront. Her successor, 
 Hugh Courtenay, added insult to this 
 injury, maltreating the city officers 
 on a quay which he had constructed 
 at his own town of Topsham. The 
 corporation of Exeter ineffectually 
 sought redress. They established 
 at law their right to the navigation 
 
 of the river, but, with a verdict 
 in their favour, were unable to act 
 until the reign of Hen. VIII., when 
 they procured authority from Pari, 
 to cut a canal from Topsham to Exe- 
 ter, and this they speedily did, at a 
 cost of about 5000/. The city, being 
 thus again connected with the sea, 
 was made a royal port by Charles II. 
 Subsequently, at different times, the 
 canal was enlarged, and in 1826 was 
 extended to a place called Turf, and 
 widened and deepened to its present 
 dimensions. It is now about 6 m. in 
 length, 15 ft. in depth, and 30 ft. in 
 width, so that 2 vessels of consider- 
 able size have room to pass each 
 other. At one end it terminates in 
 a lock 120 ft. long, and of the width 
 of the canal ; at the other, in a basin 
 opposite the quay at Exeter, 917 ft. 
 in length, 18 ft. in depth, and from 
 90 to 110 ft. in breadth. The banks 
 of the canal are, as Southey de- 
 scribed them, ‘‘completely natural- 
 ized, and most beautifully clothed 
 with flowers.” 
 
 The river Exe, rising in Somerset, 
 on the barren waste of Exmoor, is 
 one of the most considerable rivers 
 in Devonshire, and, like all the 
 streams of this rocky county, flows 
 in a clear and merry current through 
 wooded and romantic vales. Its 
 course is about 70 m. In this long 
 journey it is augmented by nume- 
 rous tributaries, and 4 m. below Exe- 
 ter is joined by the Clyst, when it 
 suddenly expands to more than a 
 mile in width, and becomes navi- 
 gable for vessels of large size. The 
 shores of this estuary are well 
 wooded and picturesque, but their 
 effect is somewhat injured by the 
 intrusive embankments and long 
 array of poles of the South Devon 
 rail and its telegraph on the W. 
 side, and of the Exeter and Exmouth 
 railway on the E. 
 
 Excursions. — Many very delightful 
 spots are within a day's drive of 
 Exeter, even for those who travel 
 
36 
 
 Route 1 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 after the old fashion ; hut the rail- 
 way has brought some of the most 
 beautiful scenes in the county 
 within easy access in point of time. 
 Among the most interesting locali- 
 ties may be mentioned the romantic 
 moorland, accessible from stations 
 on the Newton and Moreton Hamp- 
 stead Rly. (Rte. 8) ; the banks of the 
 Teign from Dunsford Bridge, on the 
 Moreton road, to a point 2 m. 
 above Fingle Bridge; Chudleigh 
 Rock ; the watering-places of Sid- 
 mouth , Budleigh Salterton , and Ex- 
 mouth ; the Church of Ottery St. 
 Mary ; the Dart from Totnes to its 
 mouth ; and the ruins of Berry Po- 
 meroy Castle . The Dart and Berry 
 Pomeroy, as well as the towns 
 of j Dawlish and Teignmouth , are 
 brought as it were within the envi- 
 rons of Exeter by the South Devon 
 Railway. To find a full description 
 of these localities consult the index. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of the 
 town you may make shorter excur- 
 sions. One of the finest views in 
 the neighbourhood is from Knowl 
 Hilly above the village of Tde. This 
 may be reached through Ide (where 
 the church, chiefly Perp., is of no 
 great interest) ; and the return to 
 Exeter may be made by Long Down. 
 The whole distance will be 6 or 7 
 m. ; and the walk or drive will be 
 found very agreeable. Tne park of 
 Powderham Castle (Earl of Devon) 
 (see Rte. 7) is no longer accessible 
 to the public. Magnificent views 
 are to be obtained from the ridge 
 of Haldon, and from Wattle Dovm — 
 locally Waddles Down. To reach 
 the latter eminence you should 
 turn off to the rt. from the old 
 Okehampton road, a short distance 
 beyond the second milestone from 
 Exeter. The banks of the Ship 
 Canal afford a pleasant walk to Top- 
 sham, or further to the termination 
 of the canal at a place called Turf. 
 And again, those who are interested 
 by vestiges of ancient buildings may 
 pursue a field-path to a farmhouse 
 
 situated to the 1. of the Cullompton 
 road, beyond the turnpike. In this 
 building are some remains of Polsloc 
 Priory , one of the 2 religious houses 
 remaining in Exeter at the time of 
 the Dissolution. These were a mo- 
 nastery and nunnery for Benedic- 
 tines ; and Polsloe was the nunnery. 
 The stranger should also know that 
 Exwick Hill, N.W., commands a 
 fine view of the city ; that Penn - 
 sylvania, a row of houses on the 
 Tiverton road, looks down the vale 
 of the Exe and the glistening river 
 to its confluence with the sea ; and 
 that the delightful grounds of Ford- 
 lands (E. Walkey, Esq.), 2^- m. W., 
 are often visited (with permission) 
 by parties of pleasure. 2^ m. E. of 
 Exeter is P inhoe ch. with an ancient 
 screen. (Pinhoe is interesting from 
 the great fight with the Danes there, 
 a.d. 1001, see ante ) ; and about 4 m. 
 E., Poltimore House , a seat of Lord 
 Poltimore, which in 1645 was gar- 
 risoned by Fairfax. 
 
 At Heavitree , 1 m. on the road to 
 Honiton, was the residence of the 
 late Richard Fordy who here wrote 
 his celebrated ‘ Handbook for Spain/ 
 His gardens, adorned with Moor- 
 ish terraces, and planted with pines 
 and cypresses from the banks of the 
 Xenil and Guadalquivir, display 
 every mark of refined taste. He lies 
 in the neighbouring ch.-yard. By 
 the turnpike-gate stands Livery Doley 
 an old chapel and almshouses, the 
 latter lately rebuilt. The houses 
 were founded in 1591, by Sir Robert 
 Dennys, previously sheriff of Devon ; 
 the small chapel, in which there is 
 daily service, is of more ancient 
 date. Heavitree is the place where 
 malefactors were formerly executed 
 (the gibbet was the “ heavy tree ”) ; 
 we have records of their having been 
 frequently burnt here, and, on dig- 
 ging the foundation for the new 
 almshouses, the workmen discovered 
 an iron ring and chain, supposed to 
 have been used to fasten the unfor- 
 tunate culprits. The ch. of Heavi- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 2 .- —London to Tiverton . 
 
 37 
 
 tree lias been rebuilt and enlarged, 
 Mackintosh, arc-hit. Near St. Loyes 
 is the ancient chapel of St. JEligius or 
 St. Loyes, now a farm stable. 
 
 ROUTE 2. 
 
 LONDON TO TIVERTON, GREAT 
 WESTERN (BRISTOL AND EXETER) 
 RAILWAY. — TIVERTON TO CREDI- 
 TOR BY ROAD. 
 
 For the line from London to 
 179J m. Tiverton Junction , see 
 
 Rte. 1. 
 
 A branch line of 5 m. runs hence 
 to Tiverton. 1} m. from the Tiver- 
 ton June. Stat. (rt. of the rail to 
 Tiverton) is the village of Halberton , 
 where the tourist will find the ch. 
 (of the 14th centy., restored 1848) 
 worth a visit. The screen, pulpit (of 
 wood, and unusual in form), and the 
 font should be noticed. 
 
 5 m. from the Junct., and 184| m. 
 from London, we reach 
 
 Tiverton . — Inns : Angel ; Three 
 Tuns. A well-built place (Pop. 
 10,025), deriving its name, Two- 
 ford-town, from its position between 
 the rivers Exe and Loman, which 
 here effect a junction, and formerly 
 of some political importance from 
 its connection with Lord Palmerston, 
 who for .30 years, and up to his 
 death, represented this borough in 
 Parliament. Tiverton owes its hand- 
 some appearance to a fire which de- 
 stroyed 298 of the old thatched 
 houses in June 1731. There had 
 
 been other great fires in 1598 and 
 1612, the first caused by “ a poore 
 woman frying pancakes with straw.” 
 Besides the rly., the town has water 
 communication with Taunton by the 
 Grand Western Canal , which is 23 m. 
 long, and was originally planned to 
 connect the two channels by a line 
 between Taunton and Topsham. The 
 barges are raised from level to level 
 by machinery, without locks. Hannah 
 Cowley , the dramatic writer, was born 
 at Tiverton 1743, and died here 1809. 
 Richard Cosway , R.A., born at Tiver- 
 ton in 1742, gave, in 1784, an altar- 
 piece (the angel delivering St. Peter 
 from prison) to St. Peter’s Ch. It is 
 now removed to Greenaway’s chapel. 
 John Cross , born 1819, deaf and 
 dumb, was an artist of some repu- 
 tation, whose works have been 
 praised by Northcote. His best pic- 
 ture is in the Museum at Exeter. 
 
 During the disturbances in 1549, a 
 battle was fought at Cranmore, near 
 Collipriest, between the insurgents 
 and the king’s troops, in which the 
 former were defeated. In the Great 
 Rebellion, Tiverton changed hands 
 more than once. In 1643 the troops 
 of the Parliament were driven from 
 its streets. In 1644 it was occupied 
 in force by the King; and in 1645 
 Massey entered it, and with Fairfax 
 carried its defences by storm. 
 
 With the exception of the ch. and 
 Blundell’s School, there is not much 
 to be seen in this town. The tra- 
 veller need not fear the intricacy of 
 the streets, for, if bewildered, he is 
 at the right place for relief. Accord- 
 ing to the west country saying, all he 
 has to do is to go to Tiverton and ask 
 Mr. Able. 
 
 The Castle (as also the Church ) was 
 founded about 1100 by Richard de 
 Redvers, but the existing remains are 
 probably not older than 14th centy. 
 It stands on the N. side of the town, 
 and for a very long period was a prin- 
 cipal residence of the Earls of Devon. 
 As a fortress it was dismantled after 
 its capture by Fairfax in Oct. 1645. 
 
38 
 
 Route 2 . — London to Tiverton . Sect. I. 
 
 The remains consist of the great 
 gateway, and some ivied walls and 
 towers, and are now the property of 
 Sir W. Palk Carew, Bart. The gate- 
 way is of the 14th centy., and fine. 
 Good views of the Exe, and over the 
 distant country, are commanded 
 from the Castle. 
 
 * The Church of St. Peter , a beautiful 
 Gothic structure, dates from the 15th 
 centy., but was in great part re- 
 built 1853-5 : architect, Ashworth, of 
 Exeter. On the exterior , remark the 
 tower, Greenway’s Chapel, and the 
 whole S. front. The tbwer, 99 ft. 
 high, is Perp., of 4 stages, with gro- 
 tesque figures ornamenting each set- 
 off. All the details deserve notice. 
 The tower belongs to the class of 
 which Chittlehampton (Rte. 17) is 
 the finest example in Devonshire. 
 Gresnway’s Chapel and S. porch 
 were erected by John Green way, a 
 merchant of Tiverton, in 1517. The 
 whole exterior is covered with lavish 
 decorations, consisting of ships, wool- 
 packs, staple-marks, figures of men, 
 children, and horses, inscriptions, 
 merchant adventurers’ and drapers’ 
 arms. On the corbel line, which 
 runs round the whole of the chapel, 
 are represented in relief 20 of the 
 principal events in the life of our 
 Saviour, beginning with the Flight 
 into Egypt, and ending with the 
 Ascension. These are all minutely 
 carved. The whole S. front was 
 rebuilt by Greenway, and is covered 
 with similar ornaments, character- 
 istic of the coming change from 
 Perp. to “cinque cento.” 
 
 The interior of the ch. is through- 
 out Perp. A Norm, doorway in the 
 N. aisle, however, is a relic of De 
 Redvers’ ch. The roof of the S. 
 porch (Greenway’s work) is enriched 
 in the same manner as the exterior. 
 Above the inner doorway is an Ado- 
 ration of the Virgin, with figures of 
 John and Joan Greenway kneeling 
 on either side. The oaken door 
 leading into the chapel from this 
 porch, and the stone roof of the 
 
 chapel itself, should be noticed. On 
 the floor are the brasses of John and 
 Joan Greenway, d. 1529. 
 
 This ch. was held as a military 
 position against Fairfax, and in the 
 assault the chapel and monuments 
 of the Courtenays were destroyed. 
 Among them was one to Catherine, 
 daughter of Edw. IV. and widow of 
 William Earl of D., and another to 
 the Admiral, Edw. C., third Earl of 
 D., commonly called, “ The blind 
 and good Earl ” — 
 
 “ Hoe, hoe ! who lies here ? 
 
 I, the goode Erie of Devonshere ; 
 
 With Maud, my wife to mee full dere, 
 We lyved togeather fyfty-fyve yere. 
 
 What wee gave, wee have ; 
 
 What wee spent, wee had ; 
 
 What wee lefte, wee loste.” 
 
 The rectory of Tiverton is divided 
 into four portions or prebends, each 
 of which has a separate incumbent. 
 The traditional story runs that a 
 rector of Tiverton complained to 
 a Courtenay, Earl of Devon, that 
 his income was not sufficient for 
 the hospitality expected from him. 
 The earl, instead of increasing his 
 means, divided the former rectory into 
 four parts, giving the former rector 
 his choice, who, says Westcote, “was 
 thereby taught to live by a crown 
 that could not live by a pound.” 
 
 The Almshouses in Gold Street, 
 founded (for 5 poor men) by John 
 Green way in 1517, should be visited. 
 The porch and small chapel are 
 partly enriched in the same manner 
 as the S. front of the ch. On the wall 
 of the chapel are the lines — 
 
 “ Have grace, ye men, and ever pray 
 For the soul of John and Joan Greenway .” 
 
 The eagle on a bundle of sticks (or 
 phcenix ?), which is seen on all these, 
 was probably Greenway’s device. 
 
 There are also some almshouses 
 in Wellbrook, built 1579, by John 
 Waldron, another Tiverton mer- 
 chant. The chapel has a good 
 wooden roof. 
 
 The Grammar School , for 150 boys, 
 was founded 1G04 by Peter Blundell, 
 
Devonshire. Route 2. — Silverto 
 
 a rich merchant, who in early life 
 was a clothier of Tiverton. The 
 screen separating the higher and 
 lower schools, the timber roof of the 
 schools, and the garden front of the 
 head master’s house are well worth 
 examination. The roof was perhaps 
 copied from one still remaining in a 
 chapel at Frithelstoke Priory. The 
 timbers are said traditionally to have 
 been wreck from the Armada, wash- 
 ed on the Cornish coast. Samuel, 
 brother of John Wesley, was for 
 many years master of this school, 
 and is buried in St. George’s ch.- 
 yard. He died 1739. Distinguished 
 alumni have been — Dr. Bull, Bp. of 
 St. David’s, born 1634; Dr. Hay ter, 
 Bp. of London, died 1762, son of 
 George Hayter, rector of Chag- 
 ford ; Dr. Eveleigh, Provost of Oriel, 
 circ. 1798; Dr. John Davey, Master 
 of Balliol ; and Dr. Temple, the pre- 
 sent Bp. of Exeter. It was from 
 Tiverton School that Bamfylde 
 Moore Carew, with three other boys, 
 ran away (circ. 1707?) and joined a 
 band of gipsies, who used to fre- 
 quent a public-house close to the 
 town. The trustees of Blundell’s 
 charity meet annually on St. Peter’s 
 day (June 29) for the election of 
 scholars and exhibitioners ; but great 
 and serious changes, the result of 
 the Public Schools Commission, are 
 (1872) in immediate prospect. 
 
 In August, horse-racing takes place 
 for 2 days in the Castle Meadows. 
 
 Lace-making was introduced into 
 Tiverton in 1816, and is now a 
 thriving business. The factory of 
 Messrs. Heathcoat is worth a visit. It 
 employs about 1500 hands. Adjoin- 
 ing it is a large iron-foundry belonging 
 to the same firm. In the neighbour- 
 hood of the town are Bolham House, 
 the seat of J. H. Amory, Esq. ; Colli" 
 priest, T. Carew, Esq.; Worth, J. 
 F. Worth, Esq.; and Knight's Hayes, 
 Mrs. Walrond. 
 
 The stranger should walk by the 
 Cullompton road to the summit of 
 
 ^ Park — Bickleigh . 39 
 
 Newt's Down, lj m., for a view of the 
 vale and town. Bampton and Dul- 
 verton (see Rte. 20), in one of the 
 most beautiful and romantic districts 
 in England, are respectively 7 and 12 
 m. distant. An omnibus goes once 
 a week during the summer from 
 ^Tiverton to Bampton. On the road 
 to Exeter is 
 
 Silverton Park , Countess of Egre- 
 mont. The house, which is in the 
 Grecian style, was built by the 3rd 
 Earl (d. 1845), and contains, amongst 
 its pictures (some of which are of 
 considerable excellence and interest) 
 the portrait of Sir Joshua Reynolds , 
 which the artist painted for his native 
 town of Plympton. It was sold by 
 the corporation to the 3rd Earl of E. 
 for 150^. (The modern house was 
 built round the older mansion, which 
 still remains untouched within the 
 enclosing walls. The new house 
 was in fact never completed.) In 
 1645 Fairfax was quartered at the 
 neighbouring village for 4 days. 
 There are several such names as 
 Silverton in this county, ,as Little 
 Silver , Silverhill ; and it is said that 
 these places are one and all situated 
 near some ancient camp. (Sel, how- 
 ever, indicating wood, covert, is, ac- 
 cording to Kemble, one of the roots 
 common to Celt and Saxon.) 
 
 The drive from Tiverton to Cre- 
 diton (12 m.) is a pleasant one. On 
 this road, 
 
 3f are Bickleigh and Bickleigh Court, 
 long a seat of the Carews, but now a 
 farmhouse. This was the native place 
 of Bamfylde Moore Carew, the “King 
 of the Beggars,” b. 1690, who, near 
 the close of his adventurous life, 
 returned hither and died 1758. He 
 was the son of the rector, Theodore 
 Carew, and was buried in the church- 
 yard. A desecrated chapel attached 
 to the manor-house is of Norman cha- 
 racter. 
 
 At Bickleigh Bridge (which the 
 road crosses), where a small stream 
 called the Dait (not that which gives 
 
40 
 
 Iioute 2 . — London to Tiverton . 
 
 name to Dartmoor) joins the Exe, 
 the scenery is very pleasing. 
 
 2j 1., on an isolated hill, but in the 
 midst of a very broken, hilly, and 
 picturesque country, is the camp of 
 Cadbury Castle , close to the road. It 
 was occupied by Fairfax’s army in 
 Dec. 1645. Across the Exe, in Kil- 
 lerton Park, is another height, called 
 Eolbury. There is a saying in the 
 county that 
 
 “ If Cadburye Castle and Dolbury Hill 
 dolven were, 
 
 All England might plough with a golden 
 sheere.” 
 
 The country people have a legend of 
 a fiery dragon, which has been seen 
 dying by night between these hills, 
 “whereby,” says Westcote, “it has 
 been supposed that a great treasure 
 lies hid in each of them, and that the 
 dragon is the trusty treasurer and the 
 sure keeper thereof.” There is a 
 Dolberry in Somerset on the range 
 of Mendip. It is an elevated camp 
 above the village of Churchill ; and, 
 curiously enough, a similar rhyme 
 belonged to it in Leland’s time — 
 
 “ If Dolberi digged were 
 Of gold should be the shere.” 
 
 The Devonshire Cadbury, from 
 which a very wide prospect is com- 
 manded, — including the camps of Dol- 
 bury, Woodbury, Sidbury. Hembury, 
 Dumpdon, Membury, and Castle 
 Neroche in Dorsetshire, — has a cir- 
 cumference of about 500 yds., and 
 consists of an oval enclosure with a 
 deep fosse, and an additional (per- 
 haps later) entrenchment, semicir- 
 cular, and ranging E. by S. to W. 
 In the centre of the first area is 
 a pit 6 ft. deep, not a well, but 
 perhaps formed to retain rain-water. 
 It was excavated in 1848, when a 
 curious finger-ring, gold armillaj, 
 and styles for writing were found in 
 it. They are of late Homan cha- 
 racter, and are now in the possession 
 of G. Fursdon, Esq. Fursdon House 
 (between the camp and the Exe 
 river), is the residence of the Rev. 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 J. Fursdon. Many Roman coins 
 were found in this neighbourhood 
 in 1830. (3 m. S.E. of Cadbury 
 
 Castle is the village of Thorverton , 
 where the Perp. ch. has been well 
 and completely restored.) 
 
 Beyond Cadbury the graceful tower 
 of Stockleigh Pomeroy Church (restored 
 1862, W. White, architect) is seen 1. 
 The manor was a parcel of the 
 barony of Berry, and belonged to 
 the Pomeroys, who are said to have 
 lost it when Sir Thomas Pomeroy, 
 a leader in the Devonshire rising of 
 1549, “killed a pursuivant at arms.” 
 It is at least certain that the Pome- 
 roy estates were forfeited at this time. 
 [Rt. of the road are the churches of 
 Cheriton Fitzpaine (2 m.) and Stock- 
 leigh English (lj m. beyond). Stock- 
 leigh English is so named from the 
 English Thegn who retained it at 
 the Conquest, and whose descendants 
 were still marked as “ English.” 
 Cheriton Fitzpaine , from its Norman 
 lords. Both churches are Perp. and 
 of no great interest. In the parish 
 of Cheriton is Upcott , now a farm- 
 house, but with many traces of 
 ancient importance, — moulded ceil- 
 ings, terraced gardens, &c. The 
 site is high and commands a wide 
 view. No part of the building, how- 
 ever, seems as ancient as the year 
 1455, when Upcott w r as the scene of 
 the murder of Nicholas Radford, one 
 of the “ king’s judges,” and a lawyer 
 of considerable eminence. The De- 
 vonshire leaders during the Wars of 
 the Roses were Lord Bonville (Lan- 
 castrian) and the E. of Devon (York- 
 ist). Radford had attached himself 
 to the former ; and Thomas Courte- 
 nay, son and heir of the earl, with 
 a following of sixty men, came to 
 Upcott at night, got admission to the 
 outer court by stratagem, plundered 
 the house, and compelled Radford, 
 then old and infirm, to set out with 
 them on foot “ to come to the earl.” 
 lie soon failed from exhaustion, 
 when nine of Courtenay’s men set 
 on him and killed him, not much 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 41 
 
 lloute 3. — London to Idxeter. 
 
 more than an arrow flight from his 
 own door. Thomas Courtenay was 
 Radford’s godson. He was beheaded 
 in 1461. The story is told in the 
 Paston Letters (Letter 27, vol. i. of 
 the old ed.) ] 
 
 Passing 1. Shobrooke Park (J. H. 
 
 Hippisley, Esq.), which contains 
 some noble trees, and from which 
 the views are very picturesque and 
 varied (see Rte. 17), we reach 
 
 6 Crediton {Inn: the Ship), situ- 
 ated on the small river Greedy. (See 
 Rte. 17.) Crediton is generally ap- 
 proached by the N. Devon Rly. 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 LONDON TO EXETER. (SOUTH-WEST- 
 ERN RAILWAY. — WATERLOO ST AT.) 
 
 The distance is performed by ex- 
 press in 4j hrs. ; by ordinary trains in 
 about 6|. 
 
 The rly. passes through a very- 
 pleasant. country, varied by the 
 meadows, fir woods, and heaths of 
 Surrey, and by the steep, open chalk 
 downs of North Hampshire and 
 Dorsetshire. The ruins of the Holy 
 Ghost Chapel at Basingstoke (rt. — it 
 was the chapel of a guild or fra- 
 ternity founded in 1525 by the first 
 Lord Sandys) ; the mound of Old 
 Sarum ; the spire of Salisbury cathe- 
 dral ; the Ch. of Tisbury (rt.) ; and 
 the ch. and castle of Sherborne, are 
 the chief objects of interest for the 
 traveller before he reaches theDevon- 
 shire border at 
 
 147 m. from London , — Axminster 
 ( Inns : George ; Old Bell. An om- 
 nibus runs 3 times daily between 
 Axminster and Lyme Regis, 5 m., 
 passing the village of Uplyme. 
 A spring van runs daily between 
 Axminster and Charmouth), a town 
 seated on an eminence above the 
 river Axe in a very pretty country. 
 (Pop. 5414.) Its name is widely 
 known in connection with the carpets 
 which for many years were manu- 
 factured in the Court House , close 
 to the ch., and were first made 
 here by a Mr. Whitty, in 1755, who 
 was rewarded for his ingenuity 
 with the medal of the Society of 
 Arts. These celebrated fabrics were 
 far superior to anything of the 
 kind which had been previously pro- 
 duced in England ; rather glaring 
 in colour, but for durability consi- 
 dered equal to the carpets brought 
 from Turkey. Their excellence in 
 this respect was due to their being 
 made entirely by hand, like tapestry. 
 The manufacture is now carried on 
 at Wilton, near Salisbury, but the 
 rugs alone are hand-made, the car- 
 pets are woven. The factory at this 
 place has been closed since 1835. 
 Axminster has been the theme of 
 much antiquarian discussion. The 
 town seems to occupy the site of a 
 British stronghold, one of a line of 
 such camps extending along the 
 eastern side of the river Axe, and of 
 the Yarty, which falls into it a little 
 below Axminster. These camps 
 are : — Hawksdown, over the sea, 
 above Axemouth ; Musbury, Mem- 
 bury, and close above the sources of 
 the Yarty, the strongly fortified 
 Castle Neroche, in Somersetshire. 
 Axminster lies' between Musbury 
 and Membury ; and the whole line 
 may have formed the frontier de- 
 fences of the Dorsetshire Morini 
 against the Damnonii of Devon. 
 Two very ancient roads — a branch 
 of the Icenhilde way, which crossed 
 the island from the country of the 
 Iceni to that of the Damnonii, and 
 
42 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 3 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 was probably of British origin (this 
 came westward from Dorchester) ; 
 and the great Roman Foss way, 
 passing south from Bath and Ilches- 
 ter — met at Axminster, and thence 
 ran to Exeter. (The lines of these 
 roads have been carefully traced by 
 the late Mr. Davidson, of Sector, in 
 his 4 British and Roman Remains 
 in the vicinity of Axminster.’) The 
 neighbourhood of the town, accord- 
 ing to a very ancient tradition, was 
 the scene of a great battle in the 
 10th centy. ; and Athelstan is said 
 to have established a college of 6 
 priests in connection with the Min- 
 ster here, who should pray continu- 
 ally for the souls of 7 earls and 5 
 kings who fell in the battle. (The 
 “Minster” itself already existed; 
 since it is recorded that the body of 
 Cyneheard the “ iEtheling,” who 
 killed Cynewulf of Wessex at Mer- 
 ton, and was himself killed on the 
 same occasion (a.d. 755), was buried 
 at 44 Axanmynster” (A.-Sax. Chron. 
 ad ann .). Attempts have been made 
 to connect this battle with the famous 
 fight of Brunanburh (a.d.937); but 
 that battle, without doubt, took place 
 in the North of England. The 
 tradition which described a great 
 fight at Axminster, is at any rate as 
 ancient as the time of Edw. III., when 
 it is recorded in the regis ter of Ne wen- 
 ham Abbey. The battle is there 
 said to have begun “al munt St. 
 Calyxt en Devansyr,” and to have 
 ended at Colecroft under Axminster, 
 where the 7 earls were killed. Munt 
 St. Calyxt is now Coaxdon. It seems 
 probable that there was a great 
 (unrecorded) battle here ; but that hs 
 details have become confused with 
 those of Brunanburh, the famous 
 poem concerning which must have 
 been well and widely known. (See 
 it in the A.-Sax. Chron. s. anno 937.) 
 In the Rebellion Axminster suffered 
 considerably. In 1644 it was occu- 
 pied by the Royalists during the 
 siege of Lyme, and in one of the 
 many conflicts it was partly burnt. 
 
 In 1688 the P. of Orange rested 
 some days here on his road to 
 London, at the “Dolphin,” which 
 had been a residence of the Yonge 
 family. 
 
 The Minster is the prominent and 
 only interesting feature of the town. 
 It is a handsome stone structure 
 dedicated to St. Mary, and, in part, 
 unquestionably of early date. It ex- 
 hibits 3 styles of Pointed archi- 
 tecture. The lower stage of the 
 tower and a portion of the chancel 
 are E. Eng. ; the nave and the greater 
 part of the chancel Dec. ; the N. aisle 
 is Perp., with a rich perforated pa- 
 rapet ; the S. aisle Gothic of the 
 year 1800. The building had for- 
 merly transepts, which were called 
 respectively the Yonges’ and the 
 Drakes' aisle. In the nave are a 
 triple pulpit of carved oak, 1633, 
 an old but plain font, and on the 
 wall under the organ-loft 2 sculp- 
 tured figures which belonged to a 
 monument of the Drakes of Ashe. 
 On each side of the chancel is an 
 ancient freestone, but painted, effigy 
 in a niche; one supposed to re- 
 present Alice, the daughter of Lord 
 Brewer and wife of Reginald de 
 Mohun, founder of Newenham Ab- 
 bey (see infra) > the other her father’s 
 chaplain and vicar of this ch., 
 Gervase de Prestaller. Both effigies 
 are of the 13th centy. On the rt. of 
 the altar are 3 sedilia and a piscina 
 under arches ; in the S. aisle is a 
 painting of the 12 Apostles by some 
 unknown genius of Axminster ; and 
 in the N. aisle a part of the ancient 
 screen. The chancel has an old roof, 
 the nave a modern one perfectly 
 plain. The pillars of the nave are of 
 blue lias, painted grey. The most 
 ancient part of the Minster is a Norm, 
 arch with zigzag moulding at the E. 
 end of the S. aisle, removed there in 
 1800, but originally forming the S. 
 door of nave. Here is a memorial 
 window to the late Rev. W. J. Cony- 
 beare, the geologist. 
 
 Dr, Buckland, the eminent geolo- 
 
43 
 
 Devonshire. Route 3. — Axminster : Excursions . 
 
 gist, born 1784, was a native of Ax- 
 minster. His father rests in the 
 churchyard — with his crutches, 
 which are represented on the tomb- 
 stone. Micaiah Toogood , a learned 
 Dissenter, was likewise a native of 
 this place, b. 1700. John Prince, 
 author of ‘The Worthies of Devon/ 
 was born in the farmhouse at Newen- 
 ham Abbey, 1643. In the vicinity 
 of the town are Clocombe House, built 
 1732, H. Knight, Esq. ; Sector House , 
 late James Davidson, Esq. ; Fursbrook 
 House, S. Northmore, Esq. ; Sea- 
 combe House, J. H. Richards, Esq. ; 
 Castle Hill, Capt. J. T. Still ; and 
 Coryton House, C. Tucker, Esq., 
 built 1756, and so named from the 
 rivulet Cory, which flows through 
 the estate. A farmhouse N. of the 
 mansion was the residence of the 
 Warrens, of whom the property was 
 purchased by the present family 
 1697. Seaton and Axmouth are 
 each 6 m., Lyme Regis 5§ m., and 
 Chard 7 m., from Axminster. 
 
 Some pleasant excursions can be 
 made from this town, and one which 
 should be the object of every visitor, 
 viz. to Ford Abbey (the Knap Inn ; 
 see Handbook for Dorset'), situated 
 on the border of the neighbouring 
 county, 7 m. distant. Thorncombe, 
 1J m. S.E. of Axminster, was the 
 birthplace of Admiral Hood, Vise. 
 Bridport, 1728. His father was the 
 vicar. The ch. contains a fine Brass 
 to Sir Thos. and Lady Brook, 1437. 
 S. of the village is Sadborough House, 
 Capt. J. A. Bragge ; and W. the ruins 
 of Olditch Court, long a residence of 
 the Brook family, afterwards Lords 
 Cobham. They are probably of the 
 time of Edw. III., and now partly 
 incorporated with a farmhouse. 
 
 The ch. of Uplyme, 4 m. from Ax- 
 minster on the road to Lyme Regis 
 (the omnibus to which passes it), 
 is beautifully situated in a land- 
 locked valley, immediately within 
 the range of cliffs. It has Dec. 
 portions, and has been well cared 
 
 for by the present rector. In 1850 
 a beautiful tesselated pavement was 
 discovered here, marking the site of 
 a villa on a branch of the Icenhilde 
 Way, which ran from Axminster to 
 Lyme, and thence along the coast 
 westward. This villa and that near 
 Seaton (Rte. 4) are the only Roman 
 villas which have been found inDevon- 
 shire but the site here, owing to mis- 
 chief complained of by the farmer, 
 has been re-covered with earth. Part 
 of the pavement was removed. (For 
 Lyme Regis see Handbook for Dorset.) 
 
 Other objects of interest are some 
 trifling remains of Newenham Abbey, 
 \ m. S. of Axminster on the road 
 to Seaton, founded for Cistercian 
 monks by Reginald de Mohun in the 
 reign of Hen. III., 1246, and colo- 
 nized from Beaulieu in Hampshire, 
 whence the future abbot, 12 monks, 
 and 4 lay brethren proceeded on 
 foot, taking 4 days for the journey. 
 
 The ruins (which are not far from 
 the junction of the Yarty with the 
 Axe) are to be found in the orchard 
 of Mr. Swain’s farm, rt. of the road, 
 by a path through 5 fields. The E. 
 window of the abbey ch. and some 
 of the arches are standing. The ch. 
 was a noble E. Eng. building, re- 
 sembling (as far as can be judged 
 from fragments dug up on the site) 
 Salisbury Cathedral in its architec- 
 ture. Many of the Mohun s and 
 Bonvilles were interred in it. — Ashe 
 (2 m. on the same road towards Mus- 
 bury and Seaton) was the birthplace 
 of the great Duke of Marlborough . 
 It is now a farmhouse, but with the 
 original kitchen, and some other 
 old rooms long believed to be haunt- 
 ed by their ancient lords, whose 
 effigies may be seen in the ch. of 
 Musbury (otherwise of little interest), 
 
 1 m. distant. (The ch. contains 3 
 monuments, each with 2 kneeling 
 figures — a knight and lady. One 
 of these monuments is for Sir Ber- 
 nard Drake, the opponent of Francis 
 Drake: see infra.) John Churchill, 
 the illustrious warrior, “ Conqueror 
 
44 
 
 Route 3 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 of the Bourbons ” at Blenheim. 
 Ramillies, Malplaquet, and Oude- 
 narde, — 
 
 “ The man to distant ages known, 
 Who shook the Gallic, fix’d the Austrian 
 throne,” — 
 
 was born here on the 5th of July, 
 1650. His father, says Alison, was 
 Sir Winston Churchill, a gallant 
 cavalier, who had drawn his sword 
 on behalf of Charles I., and had in 
 consequence been deprived of for- 
 tune and driven into exile by Crom- 
 well. His mother was Mary Drake, 
 daughter of Sir Bernard Drake of 
 Ashe, a seaman like the great Sir 
 Francis, but in no way related to 
 him. The Drakes of Ashe were 
 entitled to “coat armour,” and when 
 Sir Francis proposed to assume the 
 same arms, a feud which came to 
 blows was the result. The queen, 
 much displeased with Sir Bernard, 
 then gave Francis Drake the coat 
 his family still bears, — a ship on a 
 globe, in the rigging of which is 
 hung up a wyvern by the heels, the 
 arms of Drake of Ashe. The 
 Drakes were seated here from 1526 
 to 1782. — To resume our list: — 
 Membury and Musbury , single-ditch 
 entrenchments on lofty hills, re- 
 spectively N. and S. of the town, 
 3 m. ; Hawksdoum Hill , over Axmouth, 
 the site of another camp; all three 
 commanding very extensive pro- 
 spects, and all interesting to the 
 antiquary. The plan of all is irre- 
 gular ; and the curious arrangements 
 for defending the entrances, espe- 
 cially at Musbury, deserve special 
 notice : — the cliff scenery W. of Seaton: 
 — and, lastly, the Finney Landslips on 
 the coast between Axmouth and 
 Lyme Regis. (See Rte. 4.) From 
 Musbury no less than 12 hill forts 
 are in view, border fortresses in all 
 probability of the Damnonii and 
 Morini, between which tribes the 
 Axe here seems to have formed the 
 boundary. 
 
 The river Axe (Celtic Tsc , water), 
 which is crossed at Axminster, rises 
 
 in Dorsetshire, on the high ground 
 near Crewkerne, which forms the 
 watershed of the district ; the river 
 Parret, which also rises there, 
 taking the opposite course, toward 
 Bridgewater Bay. 
 
 The road to Chard passes in 1 m. 
 Weycroft Bridge (or Streteford, where 
 the Roman Foss Way crossed the 
 Axe), where, on a height overlook- 
 ing the river, are some traces of a 
 small entrenchment, •§ m. further is 
 
 Coaxdon , an old mansion, birth- 
 place of Sir Symonds D'Ewes , the 
 puritan, d. 1636. Coaxdon Mill on 
 the river is picturesque. 
 
 Proceeding on our route : — 
 
 1 m. from Axminster the river 
 Yarty , descending from the eastern 
 border of the Blackdown Hills, is 
 crossed, and the rly. then follows 
 the valley of the Cory rivulet, wind- 
 ing round Shute Hill, to 
 
 Seaton Junction Stat. [Hence a 
 branch rly. passes to Seaton, on the 
 coast, with intermediate stations at 
 Colyton and Colyford. The entire 
 distance (5 m.) is traversed in £ hr. 
 There is a picturesque view at Coly- 
 ton stat. The rly. follows nearly 
 the line of the old road, which is 
 pleasant, with occasional peeps of 
 the sea. Seaton, Colyton, Colyford, 
 and their neighbourhoods, are de- 
 scribed in Rte. 4 .] 
 
 Close above the Seaton June. Stat. 
 is seen the gatehouse of Shute, the 
 ancient seat of the Bonvilles, and 
 in which the De la Poles have resided 
 from the reign of Q. Mary. It is an 
 interesting Tudor ruin embowered 
 among trees. The present mansion 
 (Sir J. G. R. De la Pole, Bart.), built 
 1787-8, commands a view of the sea, 
 and contains pictures occasionally 
 shown to strangers. Among them 
 is an interesting portrait of Sir Wm. 
 Pole, the Devonshire antiquary. 
 Nearer Colyton are the ruins of 
 Colcombe, another old seat of this 
 family. (See Colyton, Rte. 4.) In 
 | the Ch. of Shute, an E. Eng. and 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 3 .—Honiton. 
 
 45 
 
 Perp. building (rest, in 1869; archi- 
 tect, Ashworth of Exeter) oversha- 
 dowed by an enormous yew-tree, are 
 the monuments of the Poles, and 
 among them a statue in white 
 marble by Cheer e (a sculptor of re- 
 pute at that period, some of whose 
 works may be seen in Westminster 
 Abbey) of Sir Will . Pole , 1741, who 
 is represented in his court dress, as 
 Master of the Household to Queen 
 Anne. On Shute Hill, J m. N., is 
 an ancient beacon-house in excellent 
 preservation. 
 
 The old deer-park of Shute, stretch- 
 ing toward the village of Kilming- 
 ton, is a wild tract of broken ground, 
 shaded by thickets and venerable 
 oaks. On Kilmington Hill grows 
 Lobelia urens , said to be peculiar to 
 this locality. 
 
 After leaving the stat., the village 
 of Colyton with its ch. (Rte. 4) is 
 seen 1., and, somewhat farther, 
 
 Widworthy Hill and Widworthy Court 
 (Sir E. Marwood Elton, Bart.). The 
 former is a beautiful eminence ; near 
 the summit is a small Dec. ch., with 
 a mailed effigy in the N. transept, 
 possibly Sir Robert Dinham, temp. 
 Edward I. In the S. transept is a 
 monument by Bacon for James Mar- 
 wood, 1767. The Marwoods have 
 been seated in Devonshire from a 
 very early period. In 1830 Sir E. 
 M. Elton assumed the name, by 
 royal licence, as representative of 
 this ancient family. 
 
 Through a rich country the rail, 
 which follows nearly the line of the 
 old high-road, reaches 
 
 Honiton Stat. The old ch. and 
 parsonage are on the hill, 1. ; rt. is 
 seen the town, lying picturesquely 
 in the valley of the Otter, and backed 
 by steep hills, some of which are 
 crested with wood, and belong to 
 the same range on which are the 
 camps of Hembury and Dumpdon 
 (see infra'). There is much pic- 
 turesque country in the neighbour- 
 hood, and some interesting excursions 
 may be made from Honiton. 
 
 From the Honiton Stat. there is a 
 coach daily to Sidmouth (7 m., 
 Rte. 4). 
 
 Honiton . ( Inns : Dolphin ; Angel ; 
 the Golden Lion, still standing, but 
 not now used as an inn, is said to 
 have been a residence of the Abbot 
 of Dunkeswell. The name Honiton 
 seems connected with those of “ Ho- 
 ney ditch,” “Hennaborough,” ancient 
 camps in the county.) Honiton 
 (pop. of par. 10,617) is well known 
 for its lace, made by hand on the 
 pillow , a beautiful fabric, but of 
 late years in a measure sup- 
 planted by bobbin-net, a cheaper 
 and inferior article worked by ma- 
 chinery. The manufacture of lace 
 was introduced into Devonshire by 
 Flemish immigrants in the reign of 
 Elizabeth. The best point lace was 
 then made exclusively of Antwerp 
 thread. Scarcely any lace is now 
 made at Honiton. Beer and the 
 villages on the coast, besides Wood- 
 bury (Rte. 4), nearer Exeter, are 
 now the chief places in which it is 
 manufactured. (For the history of 
 Devonshire lace see Mrs. Bury 
 Palliser’s * History of Lace/ London, 
 1865.) The Vale of Honiton is as 
 famous for its butter as the town 
 for its lace, and, with the Vale of 
 Exeter, forms the principal dairy 
 district of the county, and one of 
 the richest in the kingdom. The 
 Manor of Honiton belonged to the 
 De Redvers, and afterwards to the 
 Courtenays, who sold it in 1807. 
 There is a spot on the boundaries of 
 the parishes of Gittesham and Honi- 
 ton, called “ Ring in the Mire/’ 
 no doubt a corruption of some intel- 
 ligible name ; but the present form 
 has given rise to the story that Isa- 
 bella de Fortibus, the great heiress 
 of the De Redvers, settled the limits 
 of the parishes by there flinging her 
 ring into the miry ground. 
 
 The Old Church stands in a com- 
 manding position on the hillside S. 
 of the town, and contains an oak 
 
46 
 
 Route 3 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 screen, exceedingly light and ele- 
 gant, but unfortunately painted. 
 This screen is late Perp., and, like 
 the greater part of the church, was 
 probably the work of Bishop Cour- 
 tenay (1477-1487); the “haughty 
 prelate” of Shakespeare’s Rich. III. 
 (Act 4, sc. 4). The aisles were added 
 by John and Joan Takel, before 
 1529, who also restored or partly 
 rebuilt the chancel : an inscription 
 round the pillars entreats prayer for 
 their souls. By the E. door is 
 the black marble tomb of Thomas 
 Harwood , “ who practised physic 
 75 years, and died at the age 
 of 105, physician to Queen Eliza- 
 beth.” Marwood rose to this emi- 
 nence by means of a cure which he 
 effected on the person of the Earl of 
 Essex, for which special service he 
 was presented by Elizabeth with an 
 estate near Honiton. His son and 
 grandson were also of the medical 
 profession, and the former built the 
 house still standing in Honiton, and 
 but little altered, in which Charles I. 
 passed the night of 25th July, 1644. 
 Observe the grotesque heads on the 
 ceiling of the ch. Ezra Cleaveland, 
 the historian of the Courtenays (his 
 “ book ” was published at Oxford, 
 1735), was vicar of Honiton (1699- 
 1740). The churchyard commands 
 a view of the vale ; of Tracey House , 
 on St. Cyrus Hill, opposice ; of Hem- 
 bury Fort f further to the N.W. ; and 
 of the round-backed eminence of 
 Dumpdon Hill , 2 m. N. of Honiton. 
 Dump.don is 879 ft. high, and has a 
 large oval camp on its summit. 
 
 St. Faul*s Church (1837) is more 
 conveniently situated in the centre 
 of the town. It contains a copy of 
 Raphael’s “ Transfiguration,” the 
 work of a native of Honiton named 
 Salter, and given by him to the ch., 
 and monuments to the memory of 
 the Rev. R. Lewis, and J. Marwood, 
 Esq., the great-grandfather of Sir 
 E. M. Elton, Bart. 
 
 About 4 m. from the town, on the 
 Exeter road, is the Hospital of St 
 
 Margaret , originally founded for 
 lepers early in the 14th centy. ; but 
 renewed and greatly benefited by 
 Thomas Chard, the last abbot of 
 Ford, who was born at Tracy, in the 
 adjoining parish of Awliscombe. It 
 is now a hospital for 9 poor persons. 
 There is a small chapel, which, to- 
 gether with part of the hospital itself, 
 may belong to the original founda- 
 tion, although the Perp. E. window 
 of the chapel is of Chard’s time. Dr. 
 Pring ( Memoir of Thomas Chard ) has 
 suggested that the ex-abbot may have 
 been buried here ; and at any rate 
 a sepulchral stone from which the 
 brass had been removed, was for- 
 merly used for securing the W. door. 
 
 Honiton returned two members to 
 Parliament from at least the y r ear 
 1300. It was totally disfranchised 
 in 1868. Northcote , now a farm- 
 house, about 1 m. from Honiton, was 
 occupied for some time by the Jaco- 
 bite Earl of Cromarty, after his 
 pardon in 1746. 
 
 The river Otter , above which 
 Honiton stands, so named from the 
 otters which once frequented it, (but 
 they do so no longer; it has been 
 suggested that the true etymology 
 is the British “ y dwr ” =the water,) 
 has a high reputation among anglers. 
 
 The most interesting excursions 
 from Honiton are, — to Hembury Fort 
 by Awliscombe ; to Farway and Broad 
 Downs ; to Dumpdon and Mohun’s 
 Ottery ; and to Dunkeswell Abbey. 
 An excursion to Hembury Fort or 
 to Dumpdon will show at once the 
 character of the country — very beau- 
 tiful and picturesque — which sur- 
 rounds Honiton. 
 
 ( a ) Hembury Fort is distant 3j m. 
 2 m. on the road (which crosses the 
 Otter not quite 1 m. from Honiton) 
 is the village of Awliscombe with its 
 ch. This is very good Perp. and 
 deserves a visit. The S. porch 
 (erected by Thomas Chard, last 
 abbot of Ford, the Cistercian house 
 on the border of Devon and Dorset) 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 47 
 
 Route 3 . — Hemhury Fort . 
 
 is in the angle between the S. wall 
 and the transept, with 2 outer door- 
 ways. The exterior niches, the deep 
 mouldings of the arches, and the 
 groining, should be noticed. In 
 the S. transept is a beautiful Perp. 
 window, also the work of Thomas 
 Chard, who founded a chantry in 
 this aisle. He built much at Ford 
 Abbey, where his initials are visible. 
 The screen is (unusual in Devon- 
 shire) of stone, with angels pro- 
 jecting from the spring of the 
 arches. (An interesting memoir of 
 Abbot Chard, who was many years 
 suffragan bishop, under Hugh Old- 
 ham, Up. of Exeter, has been written 
 by Dr. Pring, of Taunton : London, 
 1864.) 
 
 Hemhury Fort (Ij m. the border 
 
 [hem, A.-S.] fort? there is another 
 Hembury Fort near Buckfastleigh, 
 and one in the north of Devon) is a 
 fine specimen of an ancient camp, 
 crowning a bold spur of elevated 
 land and commanding on 3 sides 
 a vast prospect over the vale of 
 the Otter to the sea, and beyond 
 Exeter to the heights of Haldon and 
 Dartmoor. It consists of an oval 
 area, about 380 yds. in length by 
 130 broad, encircled by 3 lofty ram- 
 parts in excellent preservation, and 
 is divided into 2 parts by a double 
 agger, between which, on the W., 
 one of the gateways leads obliquely 
 through the entrenchments. Several 
 Roman coins, and an iron “ lar 57 re- 
 presenting a female figure 3 in. 
 high, have been found here. It is 
 possible that Hembury Fort is the 
 Moridunum of Antonine’s ‘ Itinerary/ 
 there described as 15 m. from Exeter 
 and 36 m. from Dorchester. A branch 
 of the British and Roman Iken- 
 hilde Way, proceeding from Colyford 
 toward Exeter, passed (but at some 
 little distance, since it ran through 
 Ottery St. Mary) S. of this camp. 
 
 On the farther side of Hembury 
 Fort, lying under the ridge about 
 1 i m. distant from the fort itself, is 
 the ch. of Broadhembury , mainly 
 
 Perp. with a good W. tower, said 
 to be coeval with that of Broad- 
 cast. “ The master built Broadhem- 
 bury, the men Broadclyst.” The W. 
 window is very good. Toplady, 
 author of the well-known hymn 
 “Rock of Ages,” was for some time 
 vicar of Broadhembury. He died 
 in/London, aged 38. 
 
 On Blackdown , the high ridge seen 
 N.W. of Hembury (it is about 10 m. 
 from Honiton) are vjfietstone quarries , 
 from which scythes tones are sent to 
 all parts of England. Bostellaria 
 carinata and other rare fossils are 
 found in the pits. The down is 
 also distinguished for the beauty 
 and extent of the view. 
 
 (6) Farway and Broad Downs , S. ot 
 Honiton, between that town and 
 Sidmouth, command line and ex- 
 tensive views, with an occasional 
 fringe or border of sea. They are 
 noticeable for the barrows dotted 
 about them, some of which have 
 been opened, with very interesting 
 results, by the Rev. R. Kir wan, 
 vicar of Gittisham. 
 
 The road to Sidmouth from Honi- 
 ton begins quickly to ascend, and on 
 Farway Down attains an elevation 
 of about 800 ft. The view over the 
 vale of Honiton, gained in ascending 
 this hill, is of very great richness 
 and beauty, and in itself will repay 
 the labour of the climb. “At a 
 distance of 3 m. from the town, at 
 a point where four roads meet, 
 known as Hunter’s Lodge, is a large 
 flat stone, which tradition says was 
 once used as an altar for human 
 sacrifices. It appears to be unhewn, 
 presenting no marks of a tool on it, 
 and may possibly have formed the 
 cap stone of a dolmen. Local tradi- 
 tion further states that the stone 
 descends the hill every night, bathes 
 in the stream for the purpose of 
 washing out the stain of human 
 blood which is still upon it, and that 
 before morning it returns to its ori- 
 ginal position.” — Bee. B. Kirwan. 
 The road rt. leads to Ottery St. Mary, 
 
48 
 
 Route 3 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 3 m. distant. Taking the road on 
 the 1. many small circular mounds 
 (one is crowned with trees) will be 
 seen, in spite of their over-growth 
 of furze and heath. These are 
 tumuli, outlyers of a “ necropolis ” 
 which extends more or less irregu- 
 larly over the summits of the ridge, 
 and commands a glorious panorama, 
 presenting the finest combinations of 
 scenery, rich landward pastures and 
 uplands, and a wide circle of sea. 
 
 On Farway Hill, 1. of the road, is 
 a circular entrenchment known as 
 Farway Castle . It is about 200 ft. 
 in diameter, and has a low agger 
 and shallow fosse. This was pro- 
 bably the stronghold of the tribe 
 whose sepulchres are scattered 
 round. A group *of ten or twelve 
 barrows almost encircles this castle ; 
 and many have doubtless been de- 
 stroyed as the lower parts of the hill 
 were gradually brought into cultiva- 
 tion. Farther on is Broad Down, 
 commanding a wide sea view; and. 
 here three barrows were opened by 
 Mr. Kirwan in 1868. The human 
 remains found in these barrows had 
 all been burnt. In one a very re- 
 markable drinking-cup, formed of 
 Kimmeridge shale, was discovered ; 
 in another a very perfect example 
 of the so-called incense-cup (2 in. 
 high, 3 in. wide), the exterior of 
 which is ornamented with straight 
 lines arranged in a pattern. It was 
 partly filled with the calcined bones 
 of (to all appearance) an infant. 
 From a third a fine cinerary urn and 
 portions of a food vessel were re- 
 covered. In all the tumuli frag- 
 ments of burnt wood, red haunatite, 
 and nodules of iron pyrites were 
 found, and a layer of flint stones 
 extended beneath the charcoal. On 
 this the body had no doubt been 
 burnt. The red ochre or haematite, 
 of which a stratum occurs at Peak 
 Hill near Sidmouth (see Rte 4), was 
 probably used as a war paint. An 
 interesting memoir of these excava- 
 tions has been drawn up by Mr. 
 
 Kirwan (Plymouth, 1869 ; it is also 
 published in the Transac. of the 
 Devonshire Association) ; and the 
 relics discovered are preserved in 
 the Albert Memorial Museum at 
 Exeter (Rte. 1). 
 
 The neighbourhood of Honiton 
 must have been thickly populated in 
 the earlier British (primeval) period. 
 Within a circle of a few miles radius 
 there are at least fourteen camps or 
 earthworks, some of which are of 
 considerable size and skilfully forti- 
 fied. (See Introd.) 
 
 (c) Dumpdon Hill , 2 m. N. of Honi- 
 ton, is 879 ft. high, and has a large 
 oval camp on the summit. There is a 
 bold double agger. It may be visited 
 on the way to Mohun’s Ottery , which 
 at first belonging to the Mohuns, 
 and afterwards the first seat in De- 
 vonshire of the Carews — although 
 there are but scanty remains of the 
 old house — is a place of some interest 
 for the antiquary. It is best reached 
 from Honiton, whence it is distant 
 4J m. The Up-Ottery road should 
 be followed until, a little short of 
 Monkton ch., a road turns 1. to a 
 bridge over the Otter. Thence a 
 long Devonshire lane, running under 
 Dumpdon Hill, leads to Mohun’s 
 Ottery. The Carews, now re- 
 presented by the Carews of Hac- 
 combe and the Carews (pron. Carey) 
 of Antony in Cornwall, derive their 
 name from the barony of Carew in 
 S. Wales, acquired soon after the 
 Conquest by Otho de Windsor their 
 ancestor. In the reign of Edw. I., 
 John Carew, Baron of Carew and of 
 Odrone in Ireland, married the 
 daughter and coheir of Sir William 
 Mohun, and thus acquired Mohun’s 
 Ottery. The most distinguished 
 Carews have been— Nicholas, great 
 at Edward IV.’s court, and buried in 
 Westminster Abbey ; Thomas, who, 
 before the battle of Flodden, took up 
 the gage of the Scottish knight, 
 Andrew Barton, and vanquished 
 him; and George, who did good 
 service in Ireland, and was created 
 
Devonshire, 
 
 49 
 
 Route 3 . — MoJiurCs Ottery , 
 
 by James I. Baron Clopton and Earl 
 of Totnes. He is buried at. Strat- 
 ford-on-Avon. All these Carews 
 sprang from, and belonged to, the 
 house of Mohun’s Ottery. And 
 here was born, in 1514, Sir Peter 
 Carew, of whose life a very curious 
 memoir, written by John Hoker, of 
 Exeter, uncle of the “judicious 
 Hooker,” has been edited (1857) by 
 Sir John Maclean. Sir Peter, who 
 as a boy had been so fractious that 
 his father coupled him for some time 
 to one of his hounds at Mohun’s 
 Ottery, was high in favour with 
 Henry VIII., saw a good deal of 
 foreign service, and was active with 
 his uncle, Sir Gawen Carew, in sup- 
 pressing the Devonshire rebellion in 
 1549. He was afterwards employed 
 in Ireland, where he had laid claim 
 to an enormous tract of country, and 
 died there at Ross in 1575. He was 
 buried at Waterford, but has a 
 monument in Exeter Cathedral. 
 (See Rte. 1.) The house at Mohun’s 
 Ottery, in which the Carews lived 
 for so many generations, was not 
 large, if we may judge from an 
 “Inventory of the goodes and cat- 
 telles ” contained in it, which was 
 taken in the first year of Queen 
 Mary, though it was “strong for 
 spear and shield ” (i. e. capable of 
 sustaining a siege), as Sir Thomas 
 Dennys, Sheriff of Devon, reported 
 to the Council. The old house was 
 burnt down about 1849, and the 
 only remains are the front porch 
 and two arches of the gateways. 
 Over the door are the initials P. C. 
 Peter Carew) with the arms of Carew 
 (three lions passant) on one side, 
 and those of Mohun (a maunch with 
 a fleur-de-lis) on the other. 
 
 (d) Dunkeswell Abbey , of which 
 there are but very scanty remains — 
 but the site is interesting — has been 
 already described (Rte. 1). It is 
 8 m. from Honiton, by a road which 
 crosses the high ridges and moors to 
 the N. The village of Combe Raleigh 
 is passed about 2 m. 1. (The ch. is 
 [Dev. 8g Corn.'] 
 
 Dec. and Perp., but is of no very 
 great interest.) The long wooded 
 valley of Wolford is striking, and the 
 moors above are dotted with barrows. 
 
 (<?) Nearer points of interest are — 
 the very fine view of the vale of Honi- 
 ton, with Dartmoor in the distance, 
 from near the public-house a short 
 distance on the Axminster road. A 
 little farther on the same road is 
 a tower called the “ Basket House’’ 
 commanding a view of the Channel ; 
 and the woods of Off well, a seat of 
 the late Dr. Copleston, Bp. of Llan- 
 daff. The stranger should also walk 
 through the wrnods above Coombe 
 to Gittesham, the model of an old- 
 fashioned, well-kept, Devonshire vil- 
 lage. The view from St. Cyrus’ Hill 
 is likewise very noticeable. On a 
 clear day the towers of Exeter 
 Cathedral are readily distinguished. 
 St. Cyrus was one of the “ tele- 
 graph” stations between Plymouth 
 and London. 
 
 Among the seats in the neigh- 
 bourhood may be noticed Manor 
 House , Viscount Sidmouth, near the 
 village of Upottery, 5 m., containing 
 a full-length portrait and bust of 
 the first Lord Sidmouth ; Netherton 
 Hall (date Eliz.), Sir E. S. Prideaux, 
 Bart., about 3 m. S., under Chinehead , 
 where is the single-ditch entrench- 
 ment called Farway Castle (noticed 
 in Exc. 6) ; and Deer Park , Sheaf- 
 hayne House , on the border of the 
 county, near Yarcombe, about 8 m. 
 from Honiton, is an old mansion be- 
 longing to Sir F. F. Drake, Bart., 
 representative of the illustrious 
 “ warrior Drake.” (The terminations 
 “hayne” and “hayes,” which are 
 very common in this part of Devon, 
 are plural forms of the A.-S. hag a , 
 a hedge, — and mark early enclo- 
 sures. Hallam has remarked that 
 some hedges are amongst the most 
 ancient remains in England. A field 
 shut up for hay is still said in Devon- 
 shire to be “ hained up.” Is not the 
 word ‘ ‘ hay ” itself from this root ?) a 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 Route 3 . — London to Exeter. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 2 m. from Honiton the ch. of 
 Gittesham (mainly Perp. and of no 
 great interest) is seen 1. of the rail- 
 way. It is tolerably certain that 
 Gittesham may “boast” itself as the 
 birthplace of Joanna Southcote, who 
 is usually, but inaccurately, said to 
 have been born at Exeter. The river 
 Otter, which rises on the Black- 
 down hills, is crossed, and the train 
 reaches 
 
 Ottery Road Stat. Hence an om- 
 nibus runs 4 times daily to Ottery St. 
 Mary (1 m.), and once a day to Sid - 
 mouth (6 m., Rte. 4). Sidmouth is 
 more easily reached from this stat. 
 than from elsewhere. A branch 
 line will, perhaps, eventually be 
 completed from this stat. to Sid- 
 mouth, with a stat. at Ottery. 
 
 Ottery St. Mary ( Inns : King’s 
 Arms ; Red Lion ; London Hotel), 
 situated in a broad pastoral vale, is 
 celebrated for the beauty of its ch. 
 (which, after the cathedral, is the 
 most interesting in the county), and 
 connected with some historic inci- 
 dents. The traveller used to be 
 shown (it is now destroyed) the 
 Convention-Room of Oliver Cromwell , 
 who (says the local story) came to 
 Ottery for the purpose of raising 
 men and money, but, failing in that 
 object, gave the run of the ch. to his 
 destructive followers, who decapi- 
 tated a number of the old monu- 
 mental figures (they probably also 
 broke the stained glass in the ch.). 
 Fairfax subsequently made the 
 town his headquarters for about a 
 month, and the troops and their 
 horses were then quartered in the 
 ch. In the reign of Elizabeth Sir 
 Walter Raleigh resided in Mill 
 Street ; but the ruinous turret, which 
 was long pointed out as the re- 
 mains of his house, has been de- 
 stroyed. Ottery was once noted for 
 the manufacture of serges, a busi- 
 ness now supplanted by silk-spinning 
 and lace-making. The place has 
 
 suffered from great fires in 1767 and 
 1866. On the latter occasion 111 
 houses were burnt. It was the 
 birthplace (Oct. 21, 1772) of the 
 poet Coleridge , whose father was vicar 
 of Ottery and master of the gram- 
 mar-school. This school, founded 
 in 1545, has produced some distin- 
 guished scholars. Besides S. T. 
 Coleridge, who received his first 
 teaching here, it may boast Richard 
 Hurrell Froude, whose 4 Remains ’ 
 were edited by Dr. Newman in 
 1838-39 ; George James Cornish, 
 the friend ofKeble; Sir John Taylor 
 Coleridge, and others of his family ; 
 and John Coleridge Patteson, D.D., 
 the martyred (1871) Bp. of Mela- 
 nesia. Thackeray, in his Charter- 
 house days (1825-28), used to spend 
 his vacations at Larkbeare in the 
 parish of Ottery, then occupied by 
 his stepfather, Major Carmichael 
 Smyth ; and the “ Clavering St. 
 Mary,” the “ Chatteris,” and the 
 “Baymouth” of ‘Pendennis,’ no 
 doubt represent Ottery, Exeter, and 
 Sidmouth. 
 
 The manor of Ottery was granted 
 by Edward the Confessor to the 
 church of Rouen : but there is no 
 evidence that any ch. existed on it 
 until Bp. Bronescombe dedicated one 
 in 1260. Bp. Grandisson jn 1335 
 bought the manor from the Chapter 
 of Rouen, erected the parish ch. 
 into a collegiate establishment, and 
 granted the manor and advowson to 
 his new college, which was otherwise 
 richly endowed. It consisted of 40 
 members, under 4 principal officers 
 — warden, minister, precentor, and 
 sacristan. Alexander Barclay, author 
 of the 4 Ship of Fools,’ was a pre- 
 bendary here about 1 500, and wrote 
 (or translated) his book here. The 8 
 minor canons of Ottery were, he says, 
 44 right worthy ” of places on board. 
 
 The * Church, which stands in a 
 valley, surrounded by trees, and is 
 only well seen near at hand, consists 
 of nave and aisles, with a large cha- 
 pel added on the N. side ; of a^tran- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 51 
 
 Route 3—Ottery St. Mary. 
 
 sept formed by 2 towers ; of a chancel 
 and aisles with a small chapel on 
 each side ; and of an eastern Lady 
 chapel. Its great peculiarity is the 
 transept — formed from the towers, 
 and in this respect resembling Exeter 
 Cathedral — the only two instances of 
 transeptal towers in the kingdom. 
 
 The aisles and transeptal towers are 
 E. Eng. ; the nave, chancel, and Lady 
 chapel , Dec. ; and the aisle or chapel 
 N. of the nave, Perp. The E. Eng. 
 portions were no doubt part of the 
 ch. dedicated by Bp. Bronescombe ; 
 the Dec. are Grandisson’s work ; and 
 the Perp. chapel was built by Cicely, 
 Marchioness of Dorset, afterwards 
 Countess of Stafford, (died circ. 1530), 
 only daughter and heiress of William, 
 Lord Bonville, — under Bps. Courte- 
 nay and Vesey, whose arms appear on 
 the roof. The Stafford knot is a 
 frequent device in the moulding 
 below the parapet on the external 
 walls of this aisle. (These are the 
 dates usually assigned to the different 
 portions of the ch., but it has also been 
 suggested that the entire building 
 (with the exception of the N. aisle, 
 and perhaps part of the towers) dates 
 from the latter half of the 14th centy., 
 and that the lancets of the chancel 
 and transepts are instances of the 
 use of an earlier style, just as in 
 Exeter Cathedral, Bp. Grandisson 
 adopted the first (geometrical) Dec., 
 instead of the later (curvilinear), 
 which was the contemporary archi- 
 tecture.) 
 
 The restoration of the entire ch. 
 was commenced in 1849, under ex- 
 treme difficulties, the “ corporation ” 
 (in whom, unhappily, Henry VIII. 
 vested the fabric) offering, as usual 
 in such cases, all possible opposition. 
 It was carried through mainly by the 
 exertions of the Coleridge family, 
 and especially by the aid and in- 
 fluence of the Right Hon. Sir John 
 Taylor Coleridge. The architect was 
 Butterfield. Galleries and pews have 
 been swept away ; the stone-work 
 has been restored when necessary ; 
 
 stained glass and colour have been 
 introduced ; and the whole ch. is now 
 a “ pattern and ornament to the en- 
 tire county.” 
 
 On the exterior the general effect “ is 
 that of boldness and simplicity rather 
 than richness ; the grouping of the 
 towers with the projecting chapels 
 and porches, and the variety of style 
 shown by the lancet windows of the 
 aisles and transept, by the singular 
 windows of the clerestory, and the 
 Perp. work of the N. chapel, impart 
 a picturesque character.” Within 
 the ch. a similar effect of solemn 
 dignity is produced, mainly by the 
 light falling from the clerestory. 
 Here remark the difference between 
 the groining of the aisles (E. Eng., 
 or at all events of that character) 
 and that of the nave (Dec.) ; the 
 unusual form of the clerestory win- 
 dows, rather Perp. than Dec., as they 
 really are (these windows have 
 been filled with stained glass ; the 
 subjects from the life of our Lord) ; 
 the richly moulded piers substituted 
 for the N. wall when the Perp. chapel 
 was built ; and the rich fan tracery 
 of the chapel ceiling. The vaulting of 
 the entire church, with the exception 
 of the N. aisle, has been decorated 
 with colour, increasing in richness 
 as it passes eastward. Between the 
 arches and the clerestory is a series 
 of niches, of which those in the nave 
 were badly restored before the ge- 
 neral restoration ; those in the chan- 
 cel are in effect new, the old ones 
 having been found quite shattered, 
 under the plaster. In the transepts 
 there were no doubt altars under the 
 5-light lancet windows, E. ; since the 
 3 centre lights are shorter than the 
 rest. The chancel greatly resembles 
 the nave. From the chancel aisles 
 (E. Eng.) an E. Eng. chapel opens 
 on either side, with a chamber above 
 each, containing a chimney. These 
 chapels (ded. to St. Stephen and St. 
 Catherine) have been restored as 
 “ oratories, or places for meditation.” 
 The stained glass is by Hardman, 
 
 D 2 
 
52 
 
 Route 3 . — London to Exeter . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 from Pugin’s designs. The reredos 
 was restored (not too well) by Mr. 
 Blore from the original, much de- 
 faced, discovered behind the wain- 
 scoting, by which it had been hid- 
 den, probably by Q. Eliz.’s commis- 
 sioners in 1561. The arms on the 
 cornice are those of Grandisson, 
 Montacute, Courtenay, England and 
 France, and the Earl of March. On 
 the S. side of the altar are 3 very 
 good sedilia. A very beautiful stone 
 gallery (rood-loft?) separates the 
 Lady chapel from the ambulatory. 
 The Lady chapel itself deserves spe- 
 cial notice for the excellence of its 
 design and workmanship. It was 
 restored from the designs of Mr. 
 Woody er. 
 
 In the vaulting of the ch. are 
 more than 100 small apertures, pro- 
 bably intended for the suspension of 
 lights or “coronse.” (Inhere are 50 
 such apertures in the aisles of Exeter 
 Cathedral, and 40 at Winchester, in 
 the nave alone.) 
 
 Of the stained glass , the 5-light E. 
 window in the N. transept, repre- 
 senting the ‘‘worship of the Lamb 
 by the whole Church’’ (Rev. xiv.), 
 is by Hardman , from Pugin’s design. 
 There are many windows by War- 
 rington, of which the great W. win- 
 dow is the best. The best of Wades' 
 windows is the W. of the N. 
 chapel, representing the 12 Apostles. 
 Throughout the glass has the usual 
 defect of want of unity of design. 
 Colour has been used largely on the 
 roof, but slightly elsewhere ; the 
 reredos, the parcloses, and the font, 
 bring it to the ground. The font is 
 new, from Butterfield’s design, and 
 of Devon and Cornish marbles. 
 
 Of the monuments , observe, N. and 
 S. of the nave, the high tombs, with 
 effigies, of Sir Otho Grandisson , bro- 
 ther of the Bp. ; and of Beatrice his 
 wife, dau. of Nicholas Malmayns. The 
 knight’s armour is an excellent 
 example of the middle of Edward 
 III.’s reign. The canopies of these 
 tombs, and the mingled shields and 
 
 foliage which form the borders of the 
 arches, are very good and striking. 
 (They have been restored with exact 
 fidelity.) In the N. aisle is also the 
 effigy of John Coke, of Thorne, 1632 ; 
 who according to a wild but ground- 
 less tradition was murdered for his 
 inheritance by his brother. Another 
 version of the story runs that he was 
 a royalist, his brother a roundhead ; 
 and the latter with his troop forcing 
 a way into the ch. by the S. door- 
 way, shot his brother, who fell just 
 where his figure is. According to 
 popular belief this effigy descends 
 from its niche at night and walks 
 about the ch. At the end of the 
 S. chancel aisle are epitaphs for 
 John Sherman (1617) and Gideon 
 Sherman (1618). Southey suggested 
 that they are probably by William 
 Browne, author of ‘ Britannia’s Pas- 
 torals,’ who was long resident in 
 Ottery, and died here in 1645. Re- 
 mark also the gilded lectern in the 
 Lady Chapel, coeval with the Col- 
 lege, and bearing the arms of the 
 founder ; the many consecration 
 crosses — 13 outside, 8 inside; the 
 clock, designed to show the age of 
 the moon, as well as the hour of the 
 day, and apparently of the same age 
 as that in Exeter Cathedral ; the 
 misereres in the choir, some bearing 
 the arms of Bp. Grandisson ; and 
 the 7 narrow lights over the arch 
 above the rood-loft. There are 6 
 bells, the 4th of which, cast 1671, 
 bears 2 satirical medals, one repre- 
 senting a pope and a king under one 
 face, the other a bishop and a car- 
 dinal. 
 
 Ottery St. Mary is 6 m. by a hilly 
 road from Sidmouth. In the neigh- ; 
 bourhood of the town (1 m. rt. of j 
 the Ottery Road stat.) are Escot House 
 (Sir J. Kennaway, Bart. ; here (but 
 not in the present house ; the old one j 
 was destroyed by fire in 1808) in i 
 1755 died Sir William Yonge, well 
 known to the readers of Pope and 
 Walpole ; there is a tradition that 
 John Locke often visited Sir Walter 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 3 . — Feniton . 
 
 53 
 
 Yonge, the builder of the first house 
 at Escot (finished about 1688), and 
 that he planned certain of the 
 clumps of beech which still adorn 
 the park) ; Cadhay, lj m. N., a 
 Tudor mansion, now the property of 
 Sir Thomas Hare, Bart., of Stow 
 Hall, co. Norfolk: it has a quaint 
 quadrangle, with an entrance in the 
 centre of each side, above which are 
 the figures of Hen. VIII. and his 3 
 “ sovereign ” children. The house 
 was built by John Hay don, whose 
 family continued there for many 
 descents ; Gosford House (Sir H. A. 
 Farrington, Bart.) ; Heath’s Court 
 (Rt. Hon. Sir John Taylor Cole- 
 ridge) ; and Salston House (W. R. 
 Coleridge, Esq.). Knightstone and 
 Ash , both Elizabethan, are old houses 
 in the parish of some interest. Escot 
 is in the par. of Talaton , so named 
 from a stream called the Talewater, 
 which joins the Otter just above 
 Ottery. There is a good screen in 
 Talaton ch., which is Perp. 
 
 [- Feniton Church ., ^ m. N.E. of the 
 Ottery Road stat., of Perp. and 
 debased character, has an ancient 
 screen, and in the chancel a highly 
 decorated altar-tomb, with effigy of 
 an emaciated figure, probably of the 
 15th centy. During the rising in 
 the western counties, temp. Edw. VI. 
 (1549), a battle was fought at Feniton- 
 bridge between the insurgents (chiefly 
 Cornish) and the troops under Lord 
 Russell, with Sir Peter and Sir Gawen 
 Carew. Exeter was besieged by the 
 rebels. Lord Russell and the Carews 
 lay at Honiton, and had been in some 
 distress for want of supplies — espe- 
 cially of money. The insurgents, 
 who knew this, detached a body of 
 Cornishmen from before Exeter. 
 These halted at Feniton-bridge (it 
 crosses the river Otter) ; and were 
 disposed, “some at the bridge, but 
 the greatest company in a meadow 
 below the bridge.’ , The king’s 
 troops advanced from Honiton and 
 attacked them, recovering the bridge, 
 which had been barricaded with 
 
 trees, and the river. They then 
 drove the Cornish from the meadow, 
 and set to work to spoil their bag- 
 gage. While so engaged a “new 
 crew of Cornishmen,” under the 
 conduct of one Robert Smith, of 
 St. German’s, came upon them, “ and 
 taking these spoilers napping, many 
 of them paid dearly for their wares.” 
 In the end the rebels were overthrown, 
 “ and their captain, whose comb 
 was cut, sheweth a fair pair of heels, 
 and fled away.” In the two fights 
 300 men fell on the insurgents’ side, 
 “ who were very tall men, lusty, and 
 of great courage ; and who, in a 
 good cause, might have done better 
 service.” Lord Russell also suffered 
 severely. (The passages quoted are 
 from a ‘Narrative of the Commo- 
 tion,’ by John Hoker, of Exeter, 
 uncle of the great divine.) An ash- 
 tree, which stood near the bridge, 
 was cut down some years since, and 
 a bullet was found embedded in its 
 trunk. In Payhembury Church (about 
 2J. m. N.) is a good screen and par- 
 close, painted and gilt.] 
 
 Passing the stats, at Whimple and 
 Broad Clyst (on Whimple Hill is the 
 County Hotel { now closed), command- 
 ing a fine view of Dartmoor ; this is 
 the old “ half-way house ” between 
 Exeter and Honiton, 8 m. from 
 each ; opposite is Strete Raleigh 
 Manor House , W. W. Buller, Esq. ; 
 1. lies Woodbury Hill), the line turns 
 8., and through some deep cuttings 
 reaches 
 
 Exeter (see Rte. 1), Queen Street 
 Stat. This is the stat. for the 8. 
 Western and the Exmouth railways. 
 A short line connects it with the 
 St. David’s Stat. fov the Bristol and 
 Exeter, the S. and N. Devon rail- 
 ways. Between the two stats, a 
 striking view of the river Exe opens 
 rt. and 1. after passing through a 
 short tunnel. 
 
54 
 
 Route 4 . — Lyme Regis to Exeter . Sect. I. 
 
 ROUTE 4. 
 
 LYME REGIS TO EXETER, BY (SEATON) 
 
 SIDMOUTH, BUDLEIGH SALTERTON, 
 
 AND EXMOUTH. 
 
 Lyme Regis ( Inns : Cups ; Lion). 
 {Handbook for Dorset .) 
 
 The coast W. of this town, as far 
 as Culverhole Point near the mouth 
 of the Axe, has been the theatre 
 of remarkable disturbances, simi- 
 lar to those which have produced 
 such striking effects in the Isle of 
 Wight. But the Pinney Landslips , 
 unlike that once romantic region 
 the Undercliff, are wild and solitary, 
 and bear only the impress of the 
 convulsions to which the district 
 has been subjected. They comprise 
 the cliffs of Pinney, Whitlands, 
 Rousdon, Dowlands, Bindon, and 
 Haven; but the most remarkable 
 scene is on the estate of Dowlands, 
 where a chasm 250 ft. in width, and 
 150 ft. in depth, extends parallel 
 with the shore a distance of f m. 
 This was caused by a great landslip 
 which occurred at Christmas 1839, 
 and devastated upwards of 40 acres 
 belonging to the farms of Bindon 
 and Dowlands. The catastrophe, 
 however, was not attended by any 
 sudden convulsion ; but nature 
 seemed to deliberate as she formed 
 the craggy pinnacles and buttresses 
 which now so astonish the beholder. 
 For a week previously cracks had 
 been observed on the brow of the hill, 
 but on the night of Christmas Eve 
 the land began slowly to subside, 
 while crevices extended in every 
 direction. This disturbance con- 
 tinued on the following day, and at 
 midnight a party of the coastguard 
 
 were witness to the commencement 
 of the great chasm by the opening of 
 fissures, which produced a noise like 
 the rending of cloth. This was the 
 most eventful period ; and by the 
 evening of the following day the 
 down had regained its stability, but it 
 presented, for a long distance, a wild 
 scene of ruin. “ An eye-witness who 
 was present on the morning follow- 
 ing the descent, and while the mass 
 was still settling, describes the scene 
 as being of a very awful description ; 
 to see the vast and apparently bot- 
 tomless cracks extending, and the 
 mass of land moving, while, as if to 
 shroud this vast convulsion in still 
 further mystery, there was a dense 
 fog setting in from the sea, envelop- 
 ing everything/’ — W. R. Rogers. In 
 the ensuing February another land- 
 slip occurred at Whitlands, near the 
 centre of the district. This was, 
 however, on a much smaller scale ; 
 but it originated some delightful 
 crag-scenery, which is now richly 
 embellished with wood. 
 
 Those who are in the humour for 
 exercise may scramble all the way 
 from Lyme to the great chasm by the 
 undercliff ; but every visitor to Lyme 
 should make a point of exploring the 
 coast for the first mile westward, 
 which presents little difficulty. The 
 grand scene of ruin is, however, on 
 the estate of Dowlands, and to reach 
 this by road you must proceed to the 
 farmhouse of Dowlands (3 m., where 
 you will be compelled to pay 6 d. for 
 your inspection of the landslip), 
 and then by a field-path to the sum- 
 mit of the cliff, from which a cart- 
 road descends to che undercliff. 
 [i m. before reaching Dowlands, the 
 ch. of Rousdon (ded. to St. Pancras) 
 should be noticed. This is a small 
 new building (George and Vaughan, 
 archit.) of the native pale flint, with 
 dressings of Bath stone. There is a 
 I low tower at the W. end ; and all the 
 details — carving, stained glass, and 
 woodwork — are very rich and effec- 
 tive. This ch., which will accom- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 4 . — Axmouth. 
 
 55 
 
 modate 70 persons— the parish does 
 not contain nearly so many — is built 
 on the site of an ancient ch., which 
 although always parochial, was 
 within the manor of Axmouth. It 
 has been built at the sole cost of 
 K. W. Peek, Esq., M.P. for East 
 Surrey, who has bought the little 
 parish, and intends to build a good , 
 house here. The situation of the 
 ch. on the top of the cliff is very 
 striking.] The whole landslip at 
 Dowlands is covered with trees, 
 of which many went down in the 
 debacle ; some were killed, and their 
 withered arms now wave in the 
 wind above the crags and chasms, but 
 an orchard thus roughly transplanted 
 still flourishes and bears fruit. Two 
 cottages descended with like good 
 fortune. They were afterwards pull- 
 ed down, but one has been since re- 
 built on the original site, and with 
 the original materials. It is inha- 
 bited by farm-servants of Dowlands, 
 and commands an excellent view of 
 the mural precipice, the great fea- 
 ture of the landslip, from which 
 Mistress Echo will return you some 
 wild music, if you shout to her. Tra- 
 vellers should come provided with 
 the knowledge that the finest views 
 are to be obtained from the brink of 
 the cliffs overhanging the landslip, 
 from the cottage, from the knolls 
 near the sea, and from the E. 
 end of the great chasm, which 
 is situated just W. of the mural 
 precipice. The great chasm itself 
 will probably disappoint ; it too 
 much resembles a gravel-pit; but 
 the view from the E. end of it is 
 wonderfully fine, and the old hedges 
 which cross it, disjointed by the fall, 
 are interesting. The features of the 
 scene are much changed since the 
 landslip occurred. They are, in fact, 
 continually changing, and many cu- 
 riosities, such as the beaches heaved 
 up on the shore, and the havens which 
 were formed in it, have long since 
 disappeared. A decided path runs 
 E. for about 1 m., and, though in- 
 
 truding on the privacy of the rabbits, 
 you are advised to explore it. A 
 variety of wild flowers (among 
 them the wild larkspur) grow in 
 great luxuriance over every part of 
 the landslip. 
 
 5 The village of Axmouth is about 
 1 m. to the 1. under Hawksdown Hill . 
 (Bee post.) The Ch. is worth a visit. 
 There are considerable remains of 
 the original Norm. ch. (about 1140). 
 The plan was a nave, with N. porch, 
 S. aisle, and tower at E. end of this 
 aisle, and chancel. About 1330 
 there were considerable repairs. All 
 of the N. wall of the chancel above 
 the plinth was rebuilt, and the west- 
 ern half of the S. wall. The arches 
 of the nave, which had become 
 ruinous, were taken down, the 
 pillars strengthened, and fresh 
 arches built over them. About 1550 
 the last repairs were effected. The 
 E. window of the chancel and the N. 
 windows of the nave were inserted ; 
 the tower was taken down, and a S. 
 chancel aisle built in its place ; a 
 new chancel arch built, the S. wall 
 of the aisle rebuilt, and a new tower 
 added W. of nave. This tower has 
 some curious gargoyles. On the N. 
 side of the chancel is the fine Ear. 
 Dec. effigy of a priest in alb, stole, 
 and chasuble. Axmouth Ch. was 
 granted by Rd. de Redvers to the 
 Benedictine Abbey of St. Mary of 
 Montbourg (diocese of Coutances). 
 Lodres Priory in Dorsetshire was a 
 cell of this abbey, and Axmouth ch. 
 was served by monks from Lodres. 
 Stedcombe House , formerly the family 
 mansion of the Halletts, and built 
 1695, on the site of one destroyed 
 by the Royalists, 1644, is situated 
 on the N. side of Hawksdown. At 
 the time of the Rebellion it belonged 
 to Sir Walter Erie, an active Parlia- 
 mentarian leader. 
 
 Axmouth is a station of the Survey 
 made in 1837 to ascertain the dif- 
 ference of level between the Bristol 
 and British Channels, and to establish 
 marks by which any future move 
 
66 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 4 . — Lyme Regis to Exeter. 
 
 ment of the land may be detected. 
 For this purpose a copper bolt has 
 been fixed in the wall of Axmouth 
 ch., and another in a granite block 
 on the grounds of Mr. Hallett. The 
 line of the Survey extends from 
 Bridgewater to the mouth of the Axe, 
 passing Ilminster and Chard, and 
 many years ago was selected by Tel- 
 ford for the ship canal by which it 
 was proposed to connect the two 
 seas. 
 
 1 Coh j ford, a very ancient hamlet, 
 on a branch of the Ikenhilde, which, 
 diverging at Axminster, proceeded 
 to Lyme, and thence along the 
 coast towards Exeter. It was the 
 birthplace of Sir Thomas Gates , ap- 
 pointed Governor of Virginia by 
 James I. He was shipwrecked, on 
 his voyage to that colony, on the 
 Bermudas, in company with Sir 
 George Somers, after whom these 
 islands were at first called the 
 Somers Islands. 
 
 Here is a Station on the branch 
 rly. between Seaton Junct. (S. W. 
 line) and Seaton. (See Rte. 3.) The 
 road, 1., leads to 
 
 Seaton , 2 m. {Inns : Pole Arms ; 
 Golden Lion), a small watering-place 
 situated at the mouth of the valley of 
 the Axe. It consists of little more 
 than a single street, built at right 
 angles to the shore of a, small bay, 
 which is bounded on the E. by Cul- 
 verhole Point, and on the W. by Beer 
 Head , an ivy-hung cliff* of the lower 
 chalk, and the most western chalk 
 promontory in England. Seaton is 
 one of 3 localities which claim to be 
 the site of the Moriduwim of Antoni- 
 nus, an important Roman station, 
 which some antiquaries (and almost 
 with certainty, see Rte. 3) place at 
 Hembury Fort near Iloniton, and 
 others at High Peak on the shore 
 at Sidmouth. There are traces of 
 an entrenchment on Seaton Down. 
 In conjunction with Hawksdown, on 
 the opposite side of the Axe (see 
 post), it commanded the opening of j 
 
 the river Axe to the sea — thought to 
 be the ‘Alami Ostia’ of Ptolemy. 
 At a place called Honey ditches, or 
 Hannaditches, 1 m. S. of Seaton Down, 
 remains of an extensive Roman villa 
 have been found ; and the place 
 seems to have been occupied during 
 the medieval period, since tiles of 
 that date occur here. (See these 
 discoveries described by Mr. P. O. 
 Hutchinson in e Trans, of the Devon 
 Association,’ vol. ii.) 
 
 The principal features of the shore 
 are the valley boundaries abutting on 
 the sea, viz. on the W. White Cliff, a 
 bluff picturesque headland ; on the E. 
 Haven Cliff, a lofty height towering 
 above a mansion of the same name, 
 the residence and property of J. H. 
 Hallett, Esq. Between Seaton and 
 Haven Cliff is a great bank of shingle, 
 mentioned by Leland as “a mighty 
 rigge and barre of pible stones,” — 
 stretched across the mouth of the 
 valley like a dam. At its E. end is 
 a ferry to a road running to Axmouth 
 (distant 1 m.), and to a diminutive 
 quay and pier at the embouchure of 
 the river, which is a shifting open- 
 ing little broader than the vessels 
 which enter it, and sometimes com- 
 pletely barred by an easterly wind. 
 The view from this little pier is most 
 charming: Culverliole Point is the 
 furthest land eastward ; Beer Head, 
 called by the fishermen Berry Wold, 
 to the westward. The cliffs of Seaton 
 are remarkable for their colouring. 
 In the centre of the bay they are of 
 bright red sandstone capped by grass ; 
 and as red and green are complemen- 
 tary colours, and therefore height- 
 ened in tone by juxtaposition, the 
 effect is very brilliant. Haven Cliff' is 
 red sandstone surmounted by chalk ; 
 and White Cliff, chalk based on 
 brown, red, and amber-grey strata, 
 which, by their dip, give the but- 
 tresses of this remarkable headland 
 the appearance of leaning towards 
 the sea. 
 
 Seaton Church, at the landward 
 end of the long village street, is 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 4. — Seaton * — Beer . 
 
 57 
 
 interesting to the antiquary from its 
 perplexity. There are remains of 
 an E. E. ch. with Dec. and Perp. 
 additions and alterations. The E. E. 
 ch. is indicated by a N. window in 
 the chancel, and the S. E. angle of 
 the chancel aisle. A rebuilding about 
 1360 included nave, S. porch, N. 
 arcade, N. transept, and S. tower 
 answering to N. transept, besides 
 part of the chancel. In the 15th 
 centy. this tower was in part re- 
 moved, and a new one built at the 
 W. end. Perp. windows were also 
 then inserted. In the chancel is a 
 hagioscope of good design, showing 
 outside like an oriel window. The 
 ch. was restored in 1866. 
 
 The distance by road to Axminster 
 is 6 m., Chard 14 m., Lyme Regis 
 8 m., but for one afoot only 6 m. 
 over the ferry, and the walk, which 
 leads by the Landslip and the Under- 
 cliff all the way to Lyme, is one of 
 extreme beauty. 
 
 The objects of interest in the neigh- 
 bourhood are the Pinney Landslips 
 (just E. of Culverhole Point), lj m. 
 E. over the ferry, and by horse-path 
 to Dowlands up Haven Cliff Hill 
 (passing the farmhouse of Bindon ), 
 but about 6 m. by road through 
 Colyford ; the villages of Beer and 
 Branscombe , W. ; Hawksdown and Mus- 
 bury camps, the valley of the Axe 
 and town of Colyton , N. ; and 
 the cliffs from Seaton to Sidmouth , 
 so remarkable for their altitude. 
 They are geologically composed of 
 chalk, greensand, and red sandstone, 
 and average from 400 to 600 ft. in 
 height. They are particularly fine 
 between Branscombe and Sidmouth. 
 
 Axmouth (see ante) is 1 m. from the 
 opposite side of the ferry, but m. 
 from Seaton by road. It is situated 
 under Hawksdown , which is crowned 
 by an ancient camp formed by two 
 aggers with a ditch between them, 
 enclosing an irregular oblong area. 
 It was possibly a frontier camp of the 
 Morini, who inhabited this part of 
 
 Dorsetshire. The Axe separated 
 them from the Damnonii of Devon. 
 There is a pretty walk to Axmouth 
 along the crest of the hillside from 
 Haven Cliff, with fine view of the 
 bay, and of the valley, which, how- 
 ever, is sadly deficient in wood. 
 The entrenchment of Musbury is rt. 
 of the Axminster road, near the 
 village of Musbury, 3 m. from Seaton. 
 
 A lane runs from Axmouth to 
 Dowlands, the scene of the great 
 landslip in 1839. Another leads to 
 the farmhouse of Bindon , which still 
 retains the interesting features of a 
 manor-house of the 16th centy., with 
 some earlier portions, — especially a 
 very curious and noteworthy do- 
 mestic chapel, for which Roger 
 Wyke obtained licence from Bp. Lacy 
 in 1425. It is now a bedroom, and 
 is separated from the staircase by a 
 traceried screen of oak. Bindon 
 passed from the Bachs and Wykes 
 to a branch of the Erles, now repre- 
 sented by Thomas Erie Drax, Esq., 
 Sir Walter Erie, a distinguished 
 officer on the side of the Parliament, 
 resided here. Bindon is about f m. 
 both from Axmouth and the ferry at 
 Seaton. It lies 1. of the road from 
 Haven Cliff to Dowlands, and nearly 
 opposite the great chasm of the land- 
 slip. _____ 
 
 The pedestrian can take the fol- 
 lowing delightful walk from Seaton 
 to Sidmouth : — 
 
 He will proceed across White Cliff , 
 by a path, to 
 
 Beer , 1^ m., a rare subject for the 
 pencil, and in times past a nest of the 
 most incorrigible smugglers, among 
 whom was Jack Rattenbury, whose 
 name was long a byword in the 
 county. It is now a complete fish- 
 ing village, and will recall some of 
 the best descriptions of Kingsley. 
 The traveller will be charmed 
 with this romantic village on his 
 descent from the cliffs. It is situ- 
 ated in a little glen, and a stream 
 runs merrily through it, leaping to 
 D 3 
 
58 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 4 . — Lyme Regis to Exeter. 
 
 the sea in a cascade. The cove is 
 a rugged recess, bounded on the W. 
 
 Beer Head, remarkable for its 
 two natural towers of chalk. The 
 chalk cliffs at this point are pierced 
 by some of the most picturesque ca- 
 verns imaginable ; and the artist 
 should make a point of passing into 
 them in a boat, which he can do at 
 high water. The forms of the rocks 
 and openings are singularly wild and 
 fantastic. From this village the 
 stranger may visit the celebrated 
 Beer Quarry, about 1 m. up the road. 
 There are in effect 2 quarries — the old 
 and the new — adjoining each other ; 
 but the so-called “ new quarry ” is 
 of a very respectable antiquity. This 
 is entered by a gloomy archway, and 
 extends about J m. under-ground, 
 at a depth of about 300 ft. from the 
 surface. Its caverns are therefore 
 both dark and wet, and, as they 
 branch in every direction, form so 
 perfect a labyrinth, that it would be 
 very rash to enter them without a 
 guide. A shout at the entrance will, 
 however, generally bring a quarry- 
 man from one of the recesses, who, 
 candle in hand, will conduct the 
 traveller to the scene of his labour, 
 and show him the massive pillars 
 left for the support of the roof, and 
 strange nooks in which smugglers 
 were accustomed to conceal their 
 tubs of spirit. Myriads of bats 
 hang from the sides and roof of the 
 quarry. The freestone consists of 
 beds which lie at the junction of 
 the chalk with the greensand, and is 
 principally composed of carbonate of 
 lime, being easy to work when first 
 extracted, but gradually hardening 
 on exposure, from the evaporation 
 of the water it had contained. The 
 quarry has been worked for ages, 
 and supplied some of the stone em- 
 ployed in the decoration of Exeter 
 Cathedral. The Chapel of Beer con- 
 tains Dec. portions, but has been 
 added to at various times, and in 
 singular fashions. The burial-ground 
 is said to have remained unbroken 
 
 since the great plague, which was 
 very destructive here. In the village 
 is a small Tmlor house, once the 
 home of the Starres. The initials of 
 the founder, J. S., and his device, a 
 star, remain on one of the chimneys. 
 Much “ Honiton” or pillow lace is 
 made at Beer. A path leads from 
 the quarry over the fields (about 
 1 m.) to Branscombe Mouth ; and from 
 Beer another (from the lane running 
 W.) will conduct you to the coast- 
 guard station on Beer Head, and 
 then by an abrupt descent, with a 
 glorious cliff- view, to the same desti- 
 nation. The view from Beer Head 
 is one of the finest on the southern 
 coast ; and a sunset here will never 
 be forgotten. It embraces the whole 
 of the great W. bay from Portland 
 to the Start ; and the long line of 
 Dartmoor, with the twin peaks of 
 Heytor conspicuous, stretches away 
 rt. The headland is broken into 
 cliffs and spires of rock, evidently 
 formed by ancient landslips. It 
 should be thoroughly explored. 
 
 About 1 m. N.W. of Beer stands 
 Bovey House, seat for many genera- 
 tions of a younger branch of the 
 Walronds of Bradfield Hall, near 
 Cullompton. In 1790 Polwhele de- 
 scribed it as an antique mansion, 
 with “ a rookery, a mossy pavement 
 to the court, and a raven in the porch.” 
 It is of Elizabethan character, and 
 the approach to it was formed by an 
 avenue of limes, of which only single 
 trees remain. The entrance arch 
 bears the shield of Walrond — argent, 
 3 bulls’ faces sable, horned, with a 
 crescent for difference. 
 
 Branscombe is a straggling village, 
 beautifully situated in a wide but 
 irregular basin, at the junction of 
 three valleys, and as many streams 
 which flow to the sea at Branscombe 
 Mouth. The sides of these valleys 
 form a perfect jumble of picturesque 
 hills, one of which, on the S., gives a 
 character to the scene. It rises ab- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 50 
 
 Moute 4 . — Branscombe. 
 
 ruptly with a load of old trees, to the 
 height of 600 ft., and there meets 
 with the precipice which forms the 
 other side of the hill, and descends 
 at once to the shore. The traveller 
 should visit the beach at the Mouth, 
 where chalcedonies are numerous 
 among the shingle, and the white 
 towers of Beer Head are seen to 
 much advantage. On Southdown , of 
 which Beer Head forms the point, a 
 landslip of about 10 acres occurred in 
 1789. The manufacture of pillow-lace 
 is busily pursued at Branscombe as it 
 is at Beer, and Mr. Tucker, of this 
 place, is one of the principal lace- 
 merchants in the county, employing 
 several hundred hands. In 1839 his 
 workpeople made the Queen’s wed- 
 ding-dress, and in 1851 exhibited in 
 the Crystal Palace a marvellous spe- 
 cimen of their art, valued at no less 
 than 3000/. Petrifying springs are 
 numerous in the neighbourhood. 
 
 The Church, d edicated to St.' Winfred, 
 (a curious proof that St. Boniface 
 retained his own name in his native 
 county,) is cruciform, with a central 
 tower. The chancel is apparently 
 Ear. Dec., with a Perp. E. window 
 inserted. Under the W. light of the 
 last window, N. and S., a seat with 
 splayed sides is formed, in an unusual 
 manner. The transepts and central 
 tower seem E. Eng. A monument 
 with 2 kneeling effigies in the N. 
 transept is that of Joan Tregarthin 
 and her two husbands J ohn Kellaway 
 and John Wadham. By the latter 
 marriage she became mother of 
 the founder of Wadham Coll. Oxford. 
 The Wadhams, of Merryfield in 
 Somerset, had also possessed the 
 house of Edge , N. of Branscombe 
 (where there are still a few Tudor 
 fragments), from the reign of Edw. 
 III. to that of James I., when Nicholas 
 W., the founder of Wadham Coll, 
 (whose monument is in Ilminster 
 ch., Somerset), bequeathed the pro- 
 perty to the families of Wyndham 
 and Strangways. In the churchyard 
 lies an ancient stone coffin, and 
 
 against the S. wall of the ch. rests 
 the gravestone of Joseph Braddick, 
 1673, on which the inscription begins 
 thus : — 
 
 “ Strong and at labour, 
 
 Suddenly he reels 
 Death came behind him, 
 
 And struck up his heels.” 
 
 A house called the Clergy adjoining 
 the ch. is a curious building full of 
 hiding-places, and is said by the 
 villagers to have another house 
 under it. Berry , on the N. side of the 
 Sidmouth road, just beyond Brans- 
 combe, is likewise interesting for 
 antiquity, and has also its legend. 
 It is reputed to be haunted by the 
 ghost of an old-fashioned woman 
 who a long time ago was murdered 
 in it. 
 
 From Branscombe Mouth the pedes- 
 trian will pursue his walk along the 
 cliffs as far as Weston Mouth, 3 m. 
 The coast is everywhere lofty and ex- 
 tremely beautiful, rising from the sea 
 in slopes or precipices, and occasion- 
 ally varied by an undercliff of small 
 extent, a rude kind of terrace which 
 here and there affords space- for a 
 little orchard or corn-field. The 
 rocks are festooned with ivy and 
 other creeping plants, and the cliffs 
 command the coast from Portland to 
 the Start. In this extended prospect 
 the Heytor Rocks are conspicuous, but 
 the grand red cliffs of Sidmouth will 
 excite the most admiration, 
 
 Weston Mouth , a coastguard sta- 
 tion at the opening of a glen, bound- 
 ed on the W. by Bunscombe Cliff, 
 alt. 351 ft. Near the summit of this 
 cliff are a layer of shells which have 
 been converted into chalcedony, and a 
 bed of rolled chalk-flints. A path 
 winds up the hollow through a wood 
 to the ruinous old mansion of Duns- 
 combe, and to a road which leads to 
 
 Salcombe , the Salt Vale (l^m. from 
 Weston Mouth), a group of cottages 
 in another dell which opens to the 
 sea. The great tithes and advowson 
 of Salcombe still belong to the Dean 
 and Chapter of Exeter, to which ch. 
 
60 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Route 4 . — Lyme Regis to Exeter . 
 
 the manor was given by Canute, 
 probably as some expiation for the 
 ravages along this coast and at Exeter 
 of his father Sweyne. The ch. is 
 prettily situated, and was originally 
 a late Norman building, of which 
 date are the E. wall cf chancel, and 
 the piers of arcade. The arches 
 above were rebuilt in the 13th cent. 
 The tower has the demi-octagonal 
 turret so often seen in Devonshire. 
 In the vicinity of the village are 
 quarries of a freestone similar to 
 that of Beer. Thorn , now a farm- 
 house, was formerly a seat of the 
 Mitchells, whose monuments are in 
 the ch. 
 
 Beyond Salcombe the road crosses 
 Salcombe Down, from which the tra- 
 veller descends, with a noble pro- 
 spect extended before him, into the 
 vaunted vale of Sidmouth (2 m.). 
 
 Returning to Colyford, the point 
 at which we left the high road (ante), 
 1 m. to the rt. is 
 
 Colyton ( Inns : Dolphin ; Commer- 
 cial Hotel), a town prettily situated. 
 There is a station here on the Seaton 
 junction and Seaton line (see Rte. 3) ; 
 and the town is approached from 
 Seaton by 2 roads, of which the 
 higher is the more interesting, as 
 commanding a fine view of the valley 
 of the Axe, and of the bold ridge 
 which stretches from Axminster to 
 the sea, having upon it the camps of 
 Musbury and Hawksdown. 
 
 At Colyton you will find a paper- 
 mill, and a busy manufacture of pil- 
 low lace. The Church is interesting, 
 and deserves a visit. It consists of 
 nave, transepts, central tower, chan- 
 cel, and chantries, S. and N. The 
 nave was rebuilt circ. 1750, but the 
 fine W. front and the S. porch were 
 retained. The W. front is Perp., 
 and must have been very rich before 
 the foliation of the lights was de- 
 stroyed. It is crossed by 3 transoms, 
 and a square-headed W. door runs 
 up to the first transom, having lights 
 
 on either side. The lower part of 
 the central tower is E. Eng. The 
 upper part, with an octagonal lan- 
 tern, is Perp. The chancel is very 
 good Perp., but the end and side 
 walls are E. E. The pier arches and 
 the Perp. windows should be noticed. 
 The stained glass in the E. window 
 is chiefly modern and bad. Against 
 the N. wall is the tomb, with effigy, 
 of Margaret, daughter of the 9 th Earl 
 of Devon, by Katherine, daughter of 
 Edward IV. She died at Colcombe 
 Castle, 1512, choked by a fish-bone, 
 and her effigy is generally known as 
 the “little choakabone.” (Such is 
 the tradition, and the shields above 
 the tomb seem to countenance it ; 
 but on the other hand it is asserted 
 that the Lady Margaret was living 
 long after 1512.) N. is the Yonge 
 chantry, now used as a vestry; and S. 
 the Pole chantry, with some curious 
 monuments of the Pole family. Here 
 is buried (but without any memorial) 
 Sir W. Pole, the Devonshire anti- 
 quary, who died in 1635 ; and whose 
 “ Collections ” chiefly genealogical, 
 are of very great value and import- 
 ance. (Great portions were printed 
 in 1791 by his descendant Sir J. De 
 la Pole, of Shute. The MS. vols. in 
 folio are in the Brit. Mus.) Among 
 the Pole monuments here is one for 
 the wife of the antiquary, who “ died 
 by a fall ” in 1605. In the S. tran- 
 sept is an inscription for John Wil- 
 kins, d. 1667, the Nonconformist 
 minister, who was deprived in 1662. 
 He continued to preach at his own 
 house in the town. The inscription 
 runs thus : — 
 
 “ Such pillars laid aside, 
 
 How can the church abide ? 
 
 Hee left his pulpit, hee, 
 
 In Patmos God to see. 
 
 This shining light can have 
 No place to preach hut ’s grave.” 
 
 It is curious to find this shining light 
 granting a licence to Sir John Yonge 
 (temp. Cromwell) to eat flesh in Lent. 
 The licence is recorded in the re- 
 gister. This is one of the best pre- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 4 . — Colcombti. 
 
 61 
 
 served in Devonshire, beginning at 
 the earliest possible date, 1535. The 
 vicarage-house, rebuilt by a Dr. 
 Brerewood in 1529, is also worth 
 seeing. Above the porch window is 
 inscribed “ Meditatio totum : Pedita- 
 tio totum,” which indicates appa- 
 rently the Doctor’s opinion that a 
 day spent partly in the study, and 
 partly in tramping over the hills, was 
 not badly made out. A fragment 
 of the same inscription in stained 
 glass is fixed in one of the drawing- 
 room windows. The remains of 
 Colcombe Castle are J m. from the 
 town, on the 1. of the Axminster 
 road, and are now partly converted 
 into a farmhouse. The mansion was 
 first erected in the reign of Edw. I. 
 by Hugh Courtenay, Baron of Oke- 
 hampton, of whom it is recorded 
 that he was at frequent feud with 
 the monks of Ford, of which house 
 he was patron. The Cistercians re- 
 fused to pay certain dues ; and the 
 Lord Courtenay accordingly drove 
 off the cattle from their nearest 
 granges, and impounded them at 
 Colcombe. The Courtenays pos- 
 sessed Colcombe until (temp. Eliz.) it 
 was bought by Wm. Pole, of Shute, 
 who settled it on his son Sir Wm., 
 the Devonshire antiquary. “ A 
 goodly bwilding,” he writes, “was 
 here intended by the last Erles, but 
 altogether unfinished ; and now the 
 whole being reduced from all the 
 coheires into my possession, I have 
 new built the howse, and made it 
 the place of my residinge.” Sir 
 Wm. Pole occupied it until his 
 death in 1635. His grandson, an- 
 other Sir Wm., was living at Col- 
 combe in 1644, when Prince Mau- 
 rice, marching westward, fixed his 
 headquarters here. From Colcombe 
 he made an attack on Stedcombe 
 near Axmouth, the new house of Sir 
 Walter Erie, and garrisoned by him 
 for the Parliament, and after a fierce 
 fight the house was taken and burnt 
 down. Prince Maurice afterwards 
 alarmed the garrison at Lyme, and 
 
 in revenge a party of 120 horse was 
 despatched thence, who surprised the 
 royalists and took many prisoners. 
 On this occasion it is thought that 
 Colcombe was destroyed. A cannon 
 ball has been found in the ruins. 
 The Erles and Poles were cousins, 
 but on different sides ; and Captain 
 Erie was one of those sent from 
 Lyme. The Poles afterwards esta- 
 blished themselves at Shute (Rte. 3), 
 where they have since remained. A 
 well at Colcombe covered with 
 masonry, in a field to the N., is still 
 in good preservation. The Great 
 House , another farmhouse at Colyton, 
 was the principal residence of the 
 Yonge family, who settled in Devon- 
 shire temp. Henry VII., and were 
 baronets from 1661 to 1812, but are 
 now extinct. The house was built 
 by a John Yonge, temp. Elizabeth. 
 His son Walter kept a diary during 
 the early part of the 17th cent., 
 which has been published by the 
 Camden Soc. The Duke of Mon- 
 mouth, during his western progress 
 in 1680, stayed a few days in the 
 “Great House” with Sir Walter 
 Yonge. Sir William Yonge — died 
 1755, a Lord of the Treasury and 
 Secretary at War — is said by Lord 
 Hervey to have excelled in “ex- 
 patiating agreeably upon nothing;” 
 and the last Bart., Sir George, also 
 Secretary at War (died 1812), was 
 reduced to great poverty. His body 
 was brought secretly to Colyton for 
 burial in the ch. The house of the 
 Yonges is not large, but is sufficiently 
 picturesque. It has been restored by 
 Sir J. E. De la Pole, the present 
 proprietor. The wainscoting of 
 one of the bedrooms is curiously 
 carved, and in the garden is an an- 
 tique and picturesque summer-house. 
 [Nearer Axminster is the ancient 
 gatehouse of Shute , mentioned in 
 Rte. 3. Yardbury , for many genera- 
 tions the seat of a branch of the 
 Drakes, was destroyed by fire 1 853. 
 About 5 m. W. is Wiscombe Park , 
 C. Gordon, Esq.] 
 
62 
 
 Route 4 . — Lyme Regis to Exeter. Sect. I. 
 
 Proceeding on our route from 
 Colyford, — 
 
 2 A road on the 1. to Beer , 2 m. 
 
 5 Salcombe (see ante). 
 
 2 Sidmouth ( Inns : Royal Bedford 
 Hotel ; Royal York Hotel ; both 
 on the Esplanade ; — London Hotel). 
 This watering-place (pop. 3354) 
 occupies the mouth of one of the 
 main valleys, which, like the small 
 dell of Salcombe, run nearly at 
 right angles to the coast. This 
 valley is enclosed by lofty hills, 
 which terminate towards the sea 
 in the cliffs of Salcombe and High 
 Peak , sheer precipices of about 500 
 ft. Meadows and woods diversify 
 the landscape, and the river Sid 
 glistens brightly among the fields, 
 and forms a pool dammed up by 
 shingle before it joins the sea. 
 The view from the beach is of 
 more than usual interest, on ac- 
 count of the position of the town in 
 the centre of that great bay which is 
 bounded on the E. by the Isle of 
 Portland, and on the W. by the 
 Start. It therefore includes a semi- 
 circle of cliffs which stretch in 
 perspective to those distant points, 
 while huge red promontories occupy 
 the foreground. It is an opinion of 
 the inhabitants, based upon tradition, 
 that the coast W. of Sidmouth once 
 extended much farther into the sea, 
 so as to render their bay a secure an- 
 chorage ; and that such was the case 
 appears more than probable, from 
 the many large rocks which emerge 
 westward at low water, and the re- 
 mains of houses which have been 
 discovered beneath thq shingle of 
 the shore. Further evidence in sup- 
 port of the tradition is afforded by 
 the early coins and relics, which are 
 so frequently washed up by the sea 
 that it is a common practice with the 
 “ mud-larks ” of the place to search 
 for them after storms. Roman coins 
 have been found on the beach ; and 
 in 1841 a remarkable figure (Chiron 
 with Achilles and a dog), probably 
 
 the head of a Roman ensign, was 
 found here. (It perhaps belonged to 
 the 2nd legion of Carausius, of which 
 a centaur was the device.) There 
 are traces of an ancient fortification 
 on High Peak. Sidmouth is cele- 
 brated for its pebbles , which consist 
 of chalcedonies , green, yellow , and red 
 jaspers, moss agates, and agatized 
 wood, and are often so hard as to 
 require a diamond in the working. 
 They are derived from the green- 
 sand, and are not found far W. of 
 this town, the shingle of Sidmouth 
 being succeeded even at Budleigh 
 Salterton by flat oval stones of a 
 very different character. The neigh- 
 bourhood abounds with petrifying 
 springs which flow down the cliffs 
 and encrust the mosses growing on 
 them. The stranger will of course 
 visit the esplanade, and the mouth 
 of the river Sid, which forms a 
 pretty scene where it filters through 
 the shingle to the sea. It is spanned 
 by a rustic foot-bridge, and on the 
 slope 'of the hill are a zigzag walk 
 and seats. A geologist should also 
 inspect the cliff' beyond, where two 
 faults are visible. The strata, says 
 Mr. Hutchinson, “ rise in steps to- 
 wards the W. — that is, towards the 
 uplifting cause, the granite of Dart- 
 moor.” (Mr, P . O. Hutchinson is 
 the author of an excellent guide to 
 Sidmouth and its neighbourhood, 
 published in the town.) On the 
 beach are the flat-bottomed boats 
 which convey coal from the colliers 
 to the town ; for all vessels, to land 
 cargoes at Sidmouth, must employ 
 boats for the purpose, or lie ashore 
 and hazard the chances of the wea- 
 ther. In 1827 a project was enter- 
 tained of running out a pier on a 
 reef of rocks at the W. end of the 
 bay, and a tunnel was actually exca- 
 vated as a roadway for the transport 
 of the stone; but the undertaking 
 was ultimately abandoned, on ac- 
 count of a clashing of opinions and 
 interests. With respect to the cli- 
 mate of Sidmouth, the air is remark- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 4 . — SidmoutL 
 
 63 
 
 able for its purity and mildness, but 
 moist and relaxing. The tempera- 
 ture, on the average of the year, is 
 about 2° warmer than that of London. 
 
 The characteristic feature of the 
 sea-view are the blood-red cliffs, 
 which rise to a height of about 500 
 ft. above the beach. They exhibit a 
 section of 3 distinct formations : the 
 lower portion is new red sandstone, 
 the middle red clay or marl, the 
 upper greensand. 
 
 The objects of interest in the town 
 and its immediate neighbourhood 
 are — the Church of St. Nicholas , dedi- 
 cated to St. Giles by Bronescombe, 
 Bishop of Exeter, 1259, — but the 
 greater part of it appears to have been 
 rebuilt early in the 15th centy., pro- 
 bably in the reign of Henry VII. ; it 
 has been restored (1867) Wm. White, 
 architect ; — notice the memorial win- 
 dow (in the tower, W.) to the Duke 
 of Kent, who died here in January, 
 1820, erected by the Queen (it is by 
 Ward and Hughes), and the stone 
 pulpit and reredos, gifts of the 
 Earl of Buckinghamshire ; — - the 
 Esplanade , protected by a wall 1700 
 ft. in length, constructed 1838, to 
 stop the encroachment of the sea, 
 which in 1824 swept away a great 
 part of the beach, and inundated the 
 town; — and Salcombe Hill and High 
 Peak , respectively rising from the 
 shore E. and W. 497 and 511 ft. 
 
 Many delightful excursions may 
 be made among the hills and valleys 
 of the neighbourhood ; viz. to any 
 of the places previously mentioned 
 in this route, particularly to Weston 
 Mouth and Dunscombe (see ante'), 
 either by walk over Salcombe Hill, 
 or by boat to the Mouth : — 
 
 — To Buiverton Hill, the N. ex- 
 tremity of the high land of Peak 
 Hill, 1^ m., and further N. to the 
 pretty dells of Harpford (pronounced 
 Harford) Wood. 
 
 — To Sidford , 2 m., passing 1. 
 Manstone , a very ancient farmhouse. 
 Sidford has an ivy-mantled bridge, 
 and several picturesque tenements of 
 
 the 17th cent. In one, called Porch 
 House, at least so says tradition, 
 Charles It. slept the night after his 
 narrow escape from Charmouth (see 
 Handb. for Dorset). It has a hiding- 
 place to the rt. of the stairs, and the 
 date 1574 on one of the chimneys. 
 (It is scarcely possible that the king 
 can at any time have been concealed 
 here, and certainly not after his 
 escape from Charmouth, whence he 
 passed to Bridport.) (See Handb . 
 for Dorset.) 
 
 — To Sidbury, 3 m., where there is 
 another old bridge over the river, 
 and Itj m. W. of the village a camp 
 upon Sidbury Hill. The Church is inter- 
 esting, and contains examples of all 
 periods from E. Norm, to Perp, 
 The W. tower (Norm.), which had 
 become unsafe, was rebuilt in 1846, 
 but precisely as before, leaving the 
 Perp. insertions, as well as the 
 striking 2-light Norm, belfry win- 
 dows, and corbel table. 2 ancient 
 sculptures, found in the old walls, 
 are inserted. The broach is restored 
 in wood, shingled. The nave is 
 Trans. Norm. ; the chancel origin- 
 ally E. Eng. A tablet in the chan- 
 cel bears a puzzling inscription, of 
 which the following is a transla- 
 tion : — “ 1 650. Here lies Henry, the 
 son of Robert Parson (Parsonius), 
 who died in the second-first climac- 
 teric year of his age (‘ anno setatis 
 SU83 climacterico AevrepoTTpuTcp.’)” 
 (His age was probably 8. Each 
 “ climacter” being 7 years, the first 
 of the 2nd climacteric would be 8.) 
 Adjoining the village are Cotford, 
 W. R. Bayley, Esq., and Court Hall , 
 R. Hunt, Esq., and in the latter 
 some remains of an Eliz. mansion, 
 including a “haunted chamber,” in 
 which a human skull was discovered 
 below the floor. Sand , further N.E., 
 and now a farmhouse, has been the 
 seat of the Sand, Tremayle, Ashley, 
 and Huyshe families, and retains 
 some shields in painted glass and 
 stone and other vestiges of its ancient 
 dignity. It was built 1594. W. of 
 
Sect. t. 
 
 64 Route 4 . — Lyme 
 
 the village rises Sidbury Castle , a 
 camp of the British period on a spur 
 of East Ottery Hill, According to 
 the legend a store of gold lies buried 
 within it, and a heap of stones among 
 the trees on the rapid slope to the E. 
 is known as “ the Treasury.” A 
 large hoard of sling stones (round 
 pebbles from Sidmouth Beach) was 
 found here in 1864. (Others have 
 been found in Stockland Great Castle, 
 E. of Honiton.) The position is 
 strong and well supplied with water 
 by springs. On each side of the 
 camp (which is nearly oval) there is 
 a sort of semicircular platform at- 
 tached to the agger, perhaps for 
 beacon fires. There is a double 
 rampart, 40 ft. high, with an inter- 
 vening fosse. A branch of the Iken- 
 hilde Way passed towards Exeter 
 about 1 m. S. of this camp. — Ottery 
 East Hill , stretching northward to 
 Chineway Head , offers a breezy ex- 
 panse for a more extended ramble, 
 and another fine point of view is 
 Beacon Hill , which dips directly to 
 the Vale of the Otter. In the far 
 W. the angular granite rocks of 
 Hey tor loom on the horizon. 
 
 — Through Newton Poppleford (i.e. 
 Pepple-ford) f 4j m.,' so called from 
 the oval pebbles found in the soil, 
 to the British camp of Woodbury 
 Castle , situated upon the lofty hills 
 between Newton Poppleford and 
 Topsham. The camp was origin- 
 ally oval, but enlarged by consider- 
 able outworks, supposed (but this is 
 very doubtful) to have been con- 
 structed during the Devonshire re- 
 bellion of Edw. VI/s reign, when 
 Lord Russell defeated the insur- 
 gents near this place. A very ex- 
 tensive view is commanded from 
 Woodbury camp, which was occu- 
 pied by a park of artillery during the 
 French wars, 1798-1803, when camps 
 were formed on Woodbury common. 
 (A very curious A. -Sax. document 
 relating to the “guildship” of 
 Woodbury is printed in Thorpe’s 
 ‘ Diplomatarium,’ p. 608.) 
 
 Regis to Exeter. 
 
 — To the camp of Blackbury Castle , 
 6 m., 1. of the road to Lyme. It is 
 oval, enclosed by a single agger and 
 fosse, and the entrance is flanked by 
 a ditch and rampart on either side, 
 which extends diagonally to a dis- 
 tance of 50 paces from the principal 
 vallum — the device of some Vauban 
 of those early days. In cutting 
 through, about a centy. ago, a so- 
 called “ stone barrow ” on the farm 
 of Lovehayne, not far from Black- 
 bury Castle, a hoard of bronze relics 
 was found, “ enough to fill a wheel- 
 barrow/’ They were sold for old 
 metal at Honiton, and only 3 or 4 
 (celts and palstaves) are preserved. 
 N. of the entrenchment is Broad 
 Down , and on its W. declivity, near 
 a group of barrows, a romantic 
 hollow called Poncumbe Gate or Gurt , 
 a word used here as on Dartmoor to 
 denote a deep narrow gulley. (Some 
 remarkable barrows on Broad Down 
 were opened by the Rev. R. Kirwan 
 in 1868. They are further noticed 
 in Rte. 3. — Exc. from Honiton.) 
 
 — To Ottery St. Mary (Rte. 3). 
 
 — Over High Peak to the cliffs of 
 Ladram Bay , Otterton y and the beau- 
 tiful gardens of Bicton (Lady Rolle), 
 a walk which may be extended to 
 Hayes Barton (the present rt o. post) 
 and Budleigh Salterton. The botanist 
 will observe Anchusa sempervirens and 
 a rich variety of ferns in the lanes, 
 and Arenaria rubra ( marina ) on the 
 face of the cliffs. 
 
 High Peak is the greatest orna- 
 ment of Sidmouth, and, for beauty of 
 shape and colour (the Prawle for 
 grandeur ), perhaps the most noted 
 cliff on the coast of Devon. A path 
 leads over its summit to Ladram Bay , 
 where the red sandstone is much ca- 
 verned, and the sea rolls through an 
 archway detached from the shore. 
 High Peak slopes rapidly landward, 
 and on the top may still be traced 
 the segment of an earthwork, which 
 doubtless encircled the summit at a 
 time when the headland extended 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 4 . — Sidmouth. 
 
 65 
 
 much farther into the sea. At the 
 E. extremity, the Southern face of 
 the rampart has been laid open by 
 the action of the sea, and a deposit 
 of charcoal is exposed, — the remains 
 of ancient beacon or festival fires. 
 There is also a layer of bones (about 
 30 ft. long), in which remains of 
 hog, deer, and ox ( Bos longifrons) 
 have been found. Many of the 
 bones are split, for the extraction 
 of the marrow. Rounded pebbles 
 (perhaps sling-stones), flint nodules, 
 rude bone implements, fragments of 
 coarse pottery variously decorated 
 by incised lines and ridges, and 
 pieces of red hsematite, used pro- 
 bably for colouring the body, have 
 also been found here. The relics 
 are nearly the same, and indicate 
 the same very rude and primitive 
 life, as those which have been found 
 in barrows on Broad Down and else- 
 where in this part of Devon. (See 
 Introd.) High Peak (in the earlier 
 editions of his guide. In a paper 
 contributed to the 2nd vol. of the 
 ‘Trans, of the Devon. Association ’ 
 he seems to adopt Hembury) is 
 Mr. Hutchinson’s candidate for the 
 site of the ancient Moridunurn , 
 which others have placed at Hem- 
 bury Fort. Directly N. of it rises 
 Pin or Pen Beacon , and in the hollow 
 below lies Pin farmhouse, a gabled 
 building bearing the date 1587, and 
 formerly the residence of a family 
 named (from the beacon) De Penne. 
 Pen is no doubt the British word 
 signifying a “ summit.” 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Sidmouth 
 are Peak House (E. Lousada, Esq.), 
 the finest place at Sidmouth ; Wool- 
 brook Glen , at the end of the esplanade, 
 (Mrs. Gen. Baynes) — the Duke of 
 Kent died in this house, 1820; 
 Witheby (James Cunningham, Esq.) ; 
 Cotmaton Hall (J. Carslake, Esq.). 
 
 For the angler, there are trout in 
 the Sid and Otter. The latter river 
 may be fished between Newton Pop- 
 pleford and Otterton, but permission 
 must be first obtained at Bicton. 
 
 The road by Ottery to Exeter is 
 called 18 m. It passes within 1 m. 
 of the old encampment of Woodbury 
 Castle , and joins the Honiton road on 
 Fairmile Hill. Sidmouth, however, is 
 now best reached from either the 
 Honiton or Ottery Road stat. on the 
 S.W. rly. From both places it is 
 distant about 7 m. 
 
 Proceeding on our route towards 
 Budleigh Salterton — 
 
 4 Otterton , a village as red as the 
 soil, consisting of rude cob cottages, 
 in which the manufacture of pillow- 
 lace is busily pursued. It is a place 
 of some size and of great antiquity. 
 The Church was rebuilt by Lady Rolle 
 in 1870 (B. Ferrey, arch. The 
 lower part of the Norm, tower is 
 preserved), and adjoins the remains 
 of a religious house, a priory for 
 4 monks, which, founded soon after 
 the Conquest, belonged, together 
 with the manor of Otterton, to the 
 wealthy abbey of Mont St. Michel, 
 on the coast of Normandy. Henry V. 
 attached Otterton to his foundation 
 of Sion House. Beyond the bridge 
 over the Otter is a path on the rt., 
 which leads in ^ m. to 
 Bicton Church , erected by Lady Rolle, 
 and standing on a site somewhat in 
 advance of the old parish ch., a part 
 of which has been converted into 
 a mausoleum, and, connected by 
 a cloister with the ancient tower, 
 retains possession of the spot which 
 it has occupied for ages. The new 
 Church (Hayward, arch.) was com- 
 pleted in 1850. It is Dec. in 
 character. The heads terminating 
 the window labels (exterior) form 
 a series of kings- and queens of 
 England from Edw. I. to Victoria 
 (beginning from S. porch and pro- 
 ceeding E.). The corbels support- 
 ing the roof-timbers represent 18 
 Anglican “doctors,” beginning with 
 Wickliffe. The 20 windows are 
 filled with stained glass by War- 
 rington. This group of buildings 
 is separated by a light iron rail- 
 
66 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 4 . — Lyme 
 
 ing from the beautiful gardens of 
 Bicton (Lady Rolle), with their ter- 
 races, temple, fountains, lawns, and 
 statues. The view of this terrestrial 
 paradise from the road is extremely 
 charming, but it gives no idea of the 
 horticultural treasures which enrich 
 it. Of these the Arboretum must be 
 singled out for notice, since it con- 
 tains representatives of every hardy 
 family of tree and shrub, systemati- 
 cally arranged, and so conspicuously 
 labelled that the visitor may “ read 
 as he runs” along the broad turf 
 drive which extends from one end of 
 it to the other. For size, selection, 
 and arrangement, this collection may 
 challenge comparison with any in 
 the kingdom. The Pinetum and ever- 
 greens are little if at all inferior, in 
 extent and beauty of growth, to those 
 at Elvaston, the seat of the Earl of 
 Harrington. The park contains an 
 avenue of Araucaria imbricata (planted 
 about 1842; some of the trees have 
 produced cones and catkins for many 
 years ; it is one of the best araucaria 
 avenues in the kingdom), and others 
 of oak and beech, which are perfect 
 giants of their kind. The late Mr. 
 Loudon has recorded his opinion of 
 the Bicton Gardens in the following 
 words: “We never before saw cul- 
 ture, order, and neatness carried to 
 such a high degree of perfection in 
 so many departments on so large a 
 scale. From the commonest kitchen 
 crop, and the mushrooms in the 
 sheds, up to the pine -apples, the 
 heaths, and the orchidese, every- 
 thing seemed to be alike healthy 
 and vigorous.” The gardens of Bic- 
 ton can only be seen on application 
 by letter direct to Lady Rolle. Only 
 four persons are admitted in one 
 party, and only a certain number of 
 parties are admitted on the same day. 
 
 Bicton House, which contains some 
 good pictures, chiefly of the French 
 and Dutch schools, was built in the 
 last centy. by the father of the late 
 Lord Rolle. The Holies are de- 
 scended from a certain “ George 
 
 Regis to Exeter . 
 
 Rolle, of London,” who bought the 
 Stevenstone estate in the N. of Devon, 
 early in the reign of Henry VIII. 
 The family afterwards (“ tu felix 
 Austria, nube ”) acquired very much 
 land in Devonshire and elsewhere 
 by fortunate marriages. Robert 
 Rolle, a moderate Parliamentarian, 
 married Lady Arabella Clinton ; and 
 that ancient barony became vested 
 in his grand-daughter, who (Marga- 
 ret Rolle, Baroness Clinton) married 
 Lord Walpole, eldest son of the 
 first Earl of Orford (the great Sir 
 Robert Walpole). She is frequently 
 mentioned, and little to her advan- 
 tage, in Horace Walpole’s letters. 
 John, Lord Rolle, was raised to the 
 peerage in 1796, and died at Bicton 
 in 1842. He was the hero of the 
 ‘Rolliad,’ and of sundry “poems” 
 by Peter Pindar. 
 
 An ancient cross, raised aloft on a 
 brick pediment a century old, stands 
 Jm. W. of Bicton. at the intersection 
 of 4 roads. On the pedestal are ap- 
 propriate verses from Scripture re- 
 ferring to the rough and smooth 
 roads we travel in life. 
 
 1 \ m. East Budleigh, a true Devon- 
 shire village, with its cob cottages. 
 1^ m. to the rt. is Hayes Barton, the 
 birthplace of Sir Walter Baleigh, 1552, 
 now a farmhouse belonging to Lady 
 Rolle. It is in the picturesque style 
 of Eliz., with thatched and gabled 
 roof, mullioned windows, and pro- 
 jecting porch ; but, with the excep- 
 tion of its heavy door and wooden 
 frieze, it has not much the appear- 
 ance of antiquity. In the interior an 
 oaken table is the principal relic ; 
 but they show a room in which Sir 
 Walter is said to have been born. 
 Raleigh was the son of a 2nd mar- 
 riage, and his mother a daughter of 
 Sir Philip Champernowne, of Mod- 
 bury . His father resided at Fardell, an 
 estate nearCornwood, but was also the 
 proprietor (in copyhold) of Hayes. 
 The neighbouring ch. contains the 
 Raleighs’ pew, dated 1537; and, in the 
 pavement of the nave, a sepulchral 
 
67 
 
 Devonshire. Route 4. — Budleigh Salterton — Exmouth . 
 
 slab to the memory of Joan, the 1st 
 wife of Walter Raleigh, — beneath 
 which, according to the local tradi- 
 tion (unsupported), the head of the 
 unfortunate statesman was buried. 
 The inscription is reversed, the 
 words reading from rt. to 1. Hayes 
 Wood is often visited by picnic par- 
 ties from Sidmouth and Exmouth. 
 
 2-I Budleigh Salterton . {Inn: the 
 Rolle Arms.) This is a delightful 
 little watering-place, of recent origin, 
 just W. of the mouth of the Otter, 
 a river well known to the angler, 
 and whose waters, “rolling music- 
 ally,” have awakened an echo in 
 the breast of the poet : — 
 
 “ Mine eyes 
 
 I never shut amid the sunny ray, 
 
 But straight with all their tints thy waters 
 rise, 
 
 Thy crossing plank, thy marge with willows 
 gray, 
 
 And bedded sand that, vein’d with various 
 dyes. 
 
 Gleam’d through thy bright transparence ! ” 
 Coleridge. 
 
 B. Salterton is situated in a nar- 
 row dell, which runs obliquely to the 
 shore, while a swift sparkling stream, 
 accompanying the road, skirts the 
 villas and their gardens, which are 
 entered by bridges. The locality is 
 very warm and sheltered, and a per- 
 fect bower of myrtles. Here you 
 should notice the flat oval stones 
 which are confined to a strip of 
 beach between the Otter and the 
 cliff called the West Down Beacon. 
 Differing from the common shingle, 
 they appear to have no propensity 
 to travel along the shore, although 
 the^ opportunity is frequently af- 
 forded them, for in gales of wind 
 they are washed away, but always 
 return. Observe particularly the 
 beauty and variety of their colours 
 and patterns when the stones are 
 wet with the breaking wave. The 
 short excursions from this place are 
 to Ladram Bay , a particularly beau- 
 tiful and secluded spot, on the other 
 side of the Otter (which may be 
 crossed by a timber bridge J m. from 
 
 the sea), to Budleigh and Hayes Bar- 
 ton, and to West Down Beacon. The 
 latter, a short distance W., is an 
 eminence by the shore commanding 
 the estuaries of the Exe and the 
 Teign, and a grand sweep of coast 
 and hills. It is approached by a 
 delightful cliff-walk provided with 
 seats, and should be ascended to the 
 summit, which is marked by a high 
 flag-staff. The stones on the beach 
 in its vicinity merit notice for their 
 colours, which will appear singularly 
 beautiful to a bather who opens his 
 eyes under water and observes them 
 through that medium. Near the top 
 of the cliffs may be observed the 
 nidus of the flat pebbles of Budleigh 
 Salterton. Whence these originally 
 came is quite uncertain. All that 
 can be said is “ that Devonshire con- 
 tains no rock which could have 
 yielded them, and that there are 
 such rocks in France and in Corn- 
 wall,” — W. Pengelly.) The B. Salter- 
 ton and Exmouth road may be 
 reached by another track from the 
 top of the W. Down Beacon ; or 
 those going to Exmouth may follow 
 the path along the cliffs. 
 
 An omnibus runs four times a day 
 from Budleigh Salterton to Exmouth, 
 so as to meet the trains. 
 
 Those who are fond of walking 
 can proceed from the Beacon to Ex- 
 mouth by the secluded village of 
 Littleham , where there is some Dec. 
 work, and a carved screen (not very 
 good) in the ch. The distance is 
 about the same as that by the road. 
 
 5 Exmouth. {Inns: Imperial Hotel; 
 — Royal Beacon Hotel ; — Globe 
 Hotel ; — Clarence Hotel.) This town 
 (pop. of par. 7538) takes a high 
 rank among the watering-places of 
 the county, but differs much from 
 the others in point of situation. 
 The best part of Exmouth stands on 
 a hill failing abruptly to the mouth 
 of the sandy estuary of the Exe, 
 and commands the scenery of a 
 coast, a river, a cultivated country, 
 and barren elevated moors. The 
 
68 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Route 4 . — Lyme Regis to Exeter \ 
 
 grand feature in the landscape is the 
 ridge of Haldon , ranging as a back- 
 ground N.N.W. and S.S.E. about 
 8 m., at an almost uniform elevation 
 of 800 ft. At sunset it has quite a 
 mountainous appearance, and with 
 the long vista of the river in the 
 one direction, of the coast in the 
 other, with the woods of Powder- 
 ham in the middle distance, and the 
 bright broad sands and glistening 
 waves in the foreground, it con- 
 tributes to form a picture of which 
 the inhabitants may well be proud. 
 This view from the Beacon (or rather 
 from the Beacon Walks) is the prin- 
 cipal thing to be seen at Exmouth. 
 The Beacon Walks are cut on the 
 slope of the hill, and in a hanging 
 shrubbery, planted for public use by 
 the late Lord Rolle. They form a 
 delightful promenade, and add not a 
 little to the beauty of the prospect, by 
 framing it, as it were, in trees. An- 
 other walk and drive extend for a 
 distance of 1800 ft. along the Strand , 
 which is bounded by a very substan- 
 tial sea-wall, and was the munificent 
 gift of the late Lord Rolle. From 
 these walks the stranger may notice 
 the sand-bank called the Warren, 
 which straitens the mouth of the 
 estuary, and is connected with a bar 
 which has only a depth of 8 ft. of 
 water over it at low tid 3. These sands 
 appear to have accumulated in modern 
 times, for in the reign of Edw. III. 
 Exmouth was a port of some conse- 
 quence, contributing 10 ships to the 
 fleet which assembled before Calais ; 
 and a harbour and docks in con- 
 nection with the railway have been 
 constructed here (1871). There is a 
 coast-guard station at Exmouth, and 
 a lifeboat. 
 
 Among the seats and villas in the 
 neighbourhood may be noticed By- 
 stock (Miss Divett, but not occupied 
 by her) ; Court lands, on the shore of 
 the estuary (W. F. Spicer, Esq.); 
 St. John's Cottage (C. Sanders, Esq.) ; 
 Bassett Park (C. Wheaton, Esq.), en- 
 circled by the most beautiful grounds ; 
 
 Marley , a large and fine modern 
 house, built by John Bryce, Esq., 
 who resides here; and A-la-Ronde 
 (Miss Parminter), a house as fanciful 
 in construction as in name, the rooms 
 being arranged around a central 
 octagon hall, and fitted with sliding- 
 shutters instead of doors. In its 
 vicinity is an almshouse founded for 
 4 poor old maids by the late Mrs. 
 Parminter ; it is called Point-in-view , 
 and bears the motto “ Some point in 
 view we all pursue.” The late artist 
 Francis Dauby, R.A., lived for some 
 time at a house close to the sea a 
 short distance W. of Exmouth. From 
 it he commanded an uninterrupted 
 view of such glorious sunsets as he 
 delighted in depicting ; and here 
 he amused himself in constructing 
 boats after new models. 
 
 The excursions from Exmouth are 
 numerous. The visitor can cross the 
 ferry to Dawlish, Teignmouth , Powder- 
 ham Castle , Haldon, &c. On this side 
 of the water he can wander to Orcomb 
 Point ; — to Littleham (a Dec. arcade 
 and a late screen) and Budleigh Salter - 
 ton ; — to the pretty village of Withe- 
 combe, and the fragment of a ch. about 
 2g m. N.E., sometimes called St. John 
 in the Wilderness, This is a merely 
 fanciful name. It was really the 
 par. ch. of Withecombe Raleigh, ded. 
 to St. Michael. The greater part of 
 it was pulled down in 1778, and 
 only a portion of the N. aisle re- 
 mains. The ch.-yard is still used ; 
 and in it is buried the artist Danby. 
 From this spot, where there is a noble 
 old yew, the tourist can proceed to 
 Woodbury Common , and its camp. 
 (See ante.) The drive from Ex- 
 mouth to Exeter is pleasant, but the 
 usual way of reaching that city is by 
 rly. (Exeter and Exmouth line — 
 see the next route). The tourist 
 may also pass the river to Starcross, 
 and* there take the S. Devon rail. 
 Another agreeable mode of proceed- 
 ing as far as Topsham is by boat. 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 5 . — Exeter to Exmouth. 
 
 69 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 EXETER TO EXMOUTH. — LONDON AND 
 
 S. W. RAILWAY. BRANCH LINE, 
 
 QUEEN-STREET STATION, EXETER. 
 
 This rly., 1 Of m. in length, follows 
 throughout its course the 1. bank 
 of the estuary of the Exe. Fine 
 views are commanded of the oppo- 
 site bank, with the ridge of Haldon 
 rising behind it. 
 
 Between Exeter and Topsham is 
 seen 3. Weir House (Sir John Duck- 
 worth, Bart). Weir was acquired 
 by the Duckworths early in the cen- 
 tury ; and here lived Admiral Sir 
 John Duckworth, of whom some relics 
 are preserved. On the pillars of the 
 park-gate are 2 of the stone shot 
 which struck the Royal George in 
 the passage of the Dardanelles, 1807. 
 One weighs 590 lbs. Another shot, 
 which fell into the sea, swept every 
 man from a gun, killing 3, wound- 
 ing 27 and the first - lieutenant. 
 But the Windsor Castle was struck 
 by a more terrific missile. It was 
 a stone shot like the others, but of 
 enormous size. In diam. it mea- 
 sured 27 J inches, and it weighed 
 850 lbs. 
 
 Weir is so named from the weir 
 across the Exe below the house, 
 constructed, it is said, by the famous 
 Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of 
 Devon, with the intention of ob- 
 structing the passage of the river to 
 Exeter, whose citizens had offended 
 her. It is still known as Countess 
 Weir. Other weirs on the Exe were 
 
 however constructed by the Courte- 
 nays, and although it is clear that 
 no good feeling existed between 
 them and the citizens, it is not easy 
 to determine which side was in fault. 
 The weirs hindered the passage of 
 the river ; and it was not until the 
 Exeter Ship Canal was completed in 
 the reign of Henry VIII. that Exeter 
 itself became again a port. (See 
 Rte. 1.) 
 
 On the high ground behind Weir 
 is seen Bishop's Court (John Garratt, 
 Esq.), for a very long period a resi- 
 dence of the Bps. of Exeter. The 
 house, which has been restored (Wm. 
 White, archit.), contains some work 
 of the 13th cent., and the chapel of 
 St. Gabriel, built by Bp. Brones- 
 combe in 1270. This chapel was 
 the scene of many ordinations. [The 
 ch. of the adjoining parish of Sowton 
 was entirely rebuilt (1844-45) at the 
 sole expense of J. Garratt, Esq., 
 (Hayward of Exeter, archit,). The 
 style is Perp. There is much stained 
 glass, most of which is by Wille- 
 ment. It deserves a visit.] 
 
 5% m. Topsham Stat. Here the rly. 
 crosses the river Clyst, which at this 
 point joins the Exe. It rises, from 
 many springs, on the W. side of a 
 low ridge which divides its basin 
 from that of the Talewater and the 
 Otter. The peculiarity of its valley 
 is that the chief fall of the Clyst is 
 made during the first 3 m. of its 
 course. After that it is a sluggish 
 stream, with scarcely any fall to the 
 sea. 
 
 The town of Topsham (Topa’s ham 
 or home. — -Inns: Globe; Salutation), 
 before the completion of the ship 
 canal in 1544, was the only port of 
 Exeter. It rose into importance 
 after the navigation to Exeter had 
 been hindered by weirs ; but it must 
 always have been of some conse- 
 quence. Harold seized it “ un- 
 justly ” from Leofric, bp. of Exeter, 
 according to Leofric's own statement 
 (in his will) ; but the land may have 
 
70 
 
 Route 5 . — Exeter to Exmouth . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 been required for the defence of this 
 coast. In 1643 the Earl of War- 
 wick attempted to land a force at 
 Topsham for the relief of Exeter, 
 which was besieged by the royalists. 
 But after pouring shot from his ships 
 with little effect for 3 or 4 hours, the 
 tide fell, and he was forced to retire 
 and abandon 3 of his vessels which 
 had taken the ground. In 1645 
 Topsham was made head-quarters 
 by Fairfax, before he removed to 
 Ottery, The stranger should notice 
 the views from the Strand and the 
 Church . This building, which has been 
 restored, but is of little interest, 
 contains 2 monuments by Chantrey , 
 in memory of the gallant Admiral 
 Sir J. T. Duckworth, Bart., G.C.B., 
 and of his son, Colonel George Duck- 
 worth, who fell at Albuera. 
 
 [1 1 m. N.E. of Topsham is Clyst 
 St. George , an interesting Perp. Church, 
 which has been thoroughly restored 
 (almost rebuilt) by the Rev. H. T. 
 Ellacombe, one of the most ardent 
 campanologists in the country. 
 There is much stained glass ; the 
 soffit of the chancel arch has been 
 inlaid with serpentine and various 
 marbles. The modern schools ad- 
 joining are picturesque and good in 
 design. 
 
 In the parish of Clyst St. George 
 a small freehold was held from be- 
 fore the Conquest (so it is asserted) 
 until the present century by a family 
 named Sokespitch. Like the Hamp- 
 shire Wapshots, they continued 
 through all the changes of the dis- 
 trict, never altering their position, 
 but not losing their freehold. They 
 looked on the Courtenays across the 
 Exe as belonging to a “younger” 
 race. The Sokespitches became ex- 
 tinct here only within the last 
 quarter of a century. 
 
 Clyst Heath , in the parish of Clyst 
 St. Mary , N. of Clyst St. George, 
 was the scene of the defeat of the 
 rebels by Lord Russell in the reign 
 of Edward VI. “ Such was the 
 
 valour and stoutness of these men,” 
 says Hoker, u that the Lord Grey 
 reported himself that he never, in 
 all the wars that he had been in, did 
 know the like.” There had before 
 been a defeat of the rebels at Wood- 
 bury ; after which it is noticeable 
 that Miles Coverdale, attending on 
 Lord Russell, preached to the troops. 
 (In Norfolk, at the same time, 
 Matthew Parker, afterwards Abp. of 
 Canterbury, preached to the rebels 
 under Kett’s Oak.) The village of 
 Bishop’s Clyst was burnt. The de- 
 feat on Clyst Heath virtually ended 
 the rebellion. The Church of St. Mary 
 Clyst is only interesting from a scene 
 which took place in it soon after this 
 rising had begun. The father of Sir 
 Walter Raleigh met an old woman 
 on her way to ch., with “ a pair of 
 beads in her hands.” He entered 
 into talk with her touching the 
 beads and other forms of the “old 
 religion,” and left her so excited 
 that she passed into the church, and 
 there in the midst of the congre- 
 gation “ began to upbraid very hard 
 and unseemly speeches concerning 
 religion.” The people “ in all haste, 
 like a sort of wasps, flung out of 
 church,” and at once began to en- 
 trench their village, joining them- 
 selves to those who had already 
 risen.] 
 
 Still coasting the estuary, the line 
 reaches 7 m. Woodbury-road Station. 
 The village is distant 2 m., and 
 Woodbury Castle (see Rte. 4) some- 
 what farther. There are very fine 
 views from the range of hills to 
 which Woodbury belongs, extending 
 from Black Hill to Ottery. 
 
 1. is seen Nutwell Court (Sir 
 F. F. Drake, Bart.). Here there 
 is a portrait of the “ old warrior,” 
 Sir Francis Drake, wearing a mi- 
 niature of Elizabeth, which was given 
 to Drake by the queen herself. This 
 very miniature, the work of Vicentio 
 Vicentini, is in the possession of Sir 
 Francis Drake, with other relics. 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 71 
 
 Route 6 .— Exeter to Okehampton. 
 
 in. Lympstone. The village is 
 famous for its oysters, and. white- 
 bait may he eaten here in its season. 
 The Church has been entirely rebuilt 
 (1864, Ashworth, archit.) with the 
 exception of the tower, which was 
 built in the same year as that of 
 Woodbury (1409), and evidently by 
 the same architect. The towers are 
 much alike, and yet are sufficiently 
 varied. 
 
 lOf m. Exmouth. The stat. is 
 close to the town ; an omnibus runs 
 hence three times a day to Budleigh 
 Salterton, 5 m. distant. 
 
 From the station there is a very 
 striking view across the Exe to Hal- 
 don ; at sunset it is magnificent. 
 
 For Exmouth see Rte. 4. 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 EXETER TO OKEHAMPTON (NORTH 
 DEVON RAILWAY, AND ALSO BY 
 ROAD). NEIGHBOURHOOD OF OKE- 
 HAMPTON ; CAWSAND (COSDON) 
 BEACON ; LIDFORD ; BRENT TOR ; 
 OKEHAMPTON TO LAUNCESTON 
 (ROAD AND rail). 
 
 By rly. Okehampton is reached 
 from Exeter in 1 h. 20 m. This is 
 of course the quickest way : but the 
 road (22 m.) is pleasant, and com- 
 mands some fine views. 
 
 Rail. — The North Devon rly. 
 (trains may be joined at either Queen 
 Street or St. David’s station) is fol- 
 
 lowed as far as Yeoford Junction , 
 11 m. from Exeter. (For the rly. 
 thus far, see Rte. 17.) From Yeo- 
 ford Junction a branch line runs by 
 Bow and North Tawton to Oke- 
 hampton. [A coach runs daily (each 
 way) between Okehampton and 
 Launceston, so as to meet certain 
 trains. The drive, through very pic- 
 turesque country, takes 3J hrs. The 
 tourist may also proceed from Oke- 
 hampton to Lidford station — on the 
 Tavistock and Launceston rly. — 
 whence he will be in communication 
 by rly. with Tavistock, Plymouth, 
 and Launceston. The rly. between 
 Okehampton and Lidford is however 
 advancing rapidly toward comple- 
 tion.] 
 
 Shortly after leaving Yeoford 
 Junction, the station at Bow is 
 reached. Bow is probably the older 
 name of the parish, which is also 
 known as Nimet Tracey. The word 
 Nimet occurs frequently in this part 
 of Devon. (Nimet Rowland, Broad 
 Nimet, King’s and Bishop’s Nimet, 
 or Nympton. These are names of 
 parishes; the word also occurs as 
 the name of isolated farms or parcels 
 of land.) It is rare elsewhere, 
 though it is found in Somerset and 
 Dorset. Nimet is the participle of 
 the A.-S. verb nyman = to take, to 
 appropriate ; and indicates an an- 
 cient enclosure, probably from com- 
 mon land, Nyman survives also in 
 the name of Shakespeare’s Corporal 
 Eym, a “ snapper-up of unconsidered 
 trifles,” and in the slang “ to nim ” 
 = to steal. 
 
 The village of Bow stands cheer- 
 fully on the slope of a hill. The 
 ch., which stands apart from the 
 village and is conspicuous, is of no 
 great interest. It has a carved 
 screen. The tower and chancel were 
 originally E. Eng. A market and 
 fair were granted in 1258 to the 
 Traceys, the old lords of Bow. Dur- 
 ing the civil war there was a skir- 
 mish here between Sir Hardress 
 Waller and the King’s troops, in 
 
Sect. I. 
 
 Route 6 . — Exeter to Okehampton, 
 
 which Sir Hardress was successful, 
 and took many prisoners. 
 
 1J m. S.W. of Bow is the dese- 
 crated chapel of Broad Nimet (gene- 
 rally called “Bradnap”). The pa- 
 rish (of 52 acres) is the smallest in 
 Devonshire, except that of Kings- 
 bridge (Rte. 15), which contains 
 about 30 acres. The manor was 
 held in the 1 3th and 1 4th cents, by 
 a family taking their name from the 
 place, “De Brode Nimet. ” The 
 little ch. or chapel, now used as a 
 wood-house, is E. Eng., and inter- 
 esting. 
 
 [. Zeal Monacliorum , 1 J m. N. of Bow, 
 was given by Canute to the Bene- 
 dictines (as they then were) of Buck- 
 fast — in expiation, doubtless, of the 
 plunder of their house by the Danes. 
 (Zeal — sele, A.-S., a hall, a dwelling- 
 place. There is a village of South 
 Zeal in the par. of South Tawton.) 
 The ch. is chiefly Perp.] 
 
 The rly. proceeds, with occasional 
 views of Cawsand beacon, 1. to 
 
 North Tawton Stat. (about 1 m. 
 from the village. — A coach runs 
 hence daily in the summer to Chag- 
 ford). This is an old market-town, 
 formerly known as “ Cheping” Taw- 
 ton, standing on the rt. bank of the 
 river Taw, which here, descending 
 from Dartmoor, winds through some 
 very pleasing scenery. There is a 
 woollen factory in the town ; but the 
 only point of interest is the Church, 
 which is Perp., with a light granite 
 arcade. The rude and massive W. 
 tower seems E. Eng. The ch. has I 
 been well restored, and the chan- 1 
 cel lengthened one bay. In the 
 ch.-yard (where is an avenue of lime- 
 trees) is the monument of Grace 
 Rogers, died Feb. 3, 1852, aged 101. 
 In the parish is the barton of Bath, 
 giving name to a family (de Bath- 
 onia) which long possessed it; and 
 famous for a “ pool ” which was 
 usually dry in summer, but which 
 “ before the death of any great 
 prince or other strange accident, 1 ” , 
 
 would in the driest time become 
 full of water, and so continue until 
 the matter happened that it thus 
 foretold : — so says Westcote, writing 
 about 1630. (The pool is still to 
 be found, 1. of the road from Bow to 
 Okehampton.) 
 
 The scenery on the Taw here, 
 without being of the first order, is 
 very agreeable ; and the tourist may 
 do worse than to find his way through 
 green meadows and beneath banks 
 of hanging wood, to Bundleigli , about 
 3 m. down the stream. Here is 
 a small ch. of some interest. The 
 portal opening from the S. porch is 
 Norm., with some rude sculpture 
 (Holy Lamb and two birds) in the 
 tympanum ; and the caps, of 2 Norm, 
 pillars are worked into the wall 
 within. The nave arcade is very 
 light Perp. The chancel is (for this 
 district) unusually large. There is 
 an early Perp. E. window, with a 
 canopied niche on either side ; and 
 on the N. side of the chancel is a 
 Perp. tomb, with effigy of a priest 
 (probably the builder or restorer of 
 the ch.) vested, but so covered with 
 whitewash that the details cannot 
 well be made out. There are some 
 fragments of stained glass in the 
 windows. The N. aisle is Perp., but 
 much later than the rest. The old 
 lords of Bundleigh were — William 
 Poilegi (Domesday), de Campelston 
 or Champston, Gambon, and, when 
 Westcote wrote, Wyndham. 
 
 Winklcigh Church is seen beyond, 
 high on its hill (see Rte. 17). 
 
 Beyond North Tawton there is a 
 station at Belstone Corner ; whence the 
 tourist may walk to Belstone Cleave 
 (5 m.), with its grand rocky scenery. 
 This, however, is more usually visited 
 from Okehampton, and is described 
 post . 
 
 [2 m. N. of Belstone Corner is the 
 village of Sampford Courtenay, me- 
 morable as the place at which the 
 Devonshire rebellion of 1549 first 
 broke out. The first English u Book 
 
Devonshire, 
 
 73 
 
 Route 6 . — Sampford Courtenay . 
 
 of Common Prayer,” which had been 
 approved by Convocation and Par- 
 liament, was ordered to be publicly 
 and exclusively used from and after 
 Whitsunday (June 9), 1549. On 
 that day it was publicly used in the 
 ch. of Sampford Courtenay, as else- 
 where in Devonshire ; but on the 
 Monday following the parishioners 
 insisted that the priest should lay 
 aside the new book, and return to 
 his former order. This he did ; 
 there was forthwith a “ commotion ” 
 through the adjoining parishes, all 
 objecting to change. The neigh- 
 bouring “justices” hastened to 
 Sampford and had an interview with 
 the commoners ina“ close” near the 
 village; but nothing was settled. 
 The Sampford men and others who 
 had risen, advanced to Credit on. Sir 
 Peter and Sir Gawain Carew rode 
 from Exeter against them. The 
 “ barns of Crediton ” were fired, and 
 the rebellion was thus fairly begun. 
 (See Crediton , Ete. 17.) After the 
 siege of Exeter and the defeat of 
 the rebels on Clyst Heath (Ete. 5), 
 those who remained, men of both 
 Devonshire and Cornwall, fell back 
 on Sampford Courtenay. Here Lord 
 Eussell followed them, and they were 
 finally dispersed, although they did 
 “most manfully abide the fight.” 
 At some time during the rising 
 (Hoker does not say when) Wil- 
 liam Hellions, a certain “ franklin,” 
 coming to this place to “ have some 
 communication with them for the 
 stay of their rebellion,” was made 
 prisoner and carried to the church- 
 house, where his words so irritated 
 the rebels that they killed him with 
 a bill and cut him in pieces. “ And,” 
 says Hoker, “ though they counted 
 him for an heretic, yet they buried 
 him in the churchyard there, but con- j 
 trarv to the common manner, laying 
 his body north and south.” (Samp- 
 ford Courtenay adjoins the old road 
 from Tavistock and the west, which 
 ran by Okehampton and Crediton to 
 Exeter. It was thus in the high- 
 [Dev. 4' Corn.'] 
 
 way from Cornwall, and was a good 
 central point for the rising. This 
 road was in general use for all per- 
 sons travelling from Plymouth and 
 Cornwall. By it the Princess Cathe- 
 rine of Arragon journeyed from Ply- 
 mouth to Exeter.) The existing 
 Church of Sampford Courtenay, a fine 
 Perp. building, is the same which was 
 standing in 1549. There is a screen, 
 and a lofty W. tower. The manor 
 belonged to the Courtenays; the 
 ch. to Tavistock Abbey.] 
 
 The next station is Okehampton 
 (. Inn : White Hart). 
 
 By Eoad from Exeter to Oke- 
 hampton. 
 
 Two roads, leaving Exeter by its 
 western suburb, crossing the Exe by 
 St. Thomas’s bridge, meet at Tap- 
 house, 7 m. from the city. Each road 
 rises from the bank of the river so 
 as to command one of the finest views 
 of Exeter. The southernmost then 
 descends very sharply, by a deep 
 cutting, into the vale of Ide, which, 
 with its green hillsides and flourish- 
 ing orchards, forms a pleasant intro- 
 duction into Devonshire. 
 
 There is nothing calling for special 
 notice on either road until Taphouse 
 is reached. 
 
 A lane 1. leads (1J m.) to the en- 
 trance of Fulford Park (John Fulford, 
 Esq., but not at present inhabited 
 by him). The park is large, and 
 though it has been despoiled of its 
 deer and of many of its most vene- 
 rable trees, it is still exceedingly 
 picturesque, and very striking views 
 are commanded from it. At the far- 
 ther end is a noble beech avenue , well 
 worth the artist’s attention. The 
 Fulfords have been settled here cer- 
 tainly since the reign of Eichard I., 
 and probably from a much earlier 
 time. Few Devonshire families have 
 been more distinguished. Sir Wil- 
 
 | win, who fought for Henry VI. at 
 
 £ 
 
74 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 6 . — Exeter to Okehampton . 
 
 Towton, was beheaded at Hexham in 
 1461. Sir Thomas Fulford came 
 with the E. of Devon to the relief of 
 Exeter when that city was besieged 
 by Perkin Warbeck in 1497. Col. 
 Francis (afterwards Sir Francis) 
 Fulford garrisoned his house for 
 King Charles, and his son Thomas 
 was killed in royal service. Fairfax 
 besieged and took Fulford House in 
 the winter of 1645. The house, 
 which is Tudor, and built round a 
 quadrangle, is now in a sad state of 
 decay, but still contains family por- 
 traits and a full-length of Charles I., 
 given to the Fulfords by Charles II. 
 after the Restoration. It is said to 
 be a Vandyck. The Fulford monu- 
 ments are in the neighbouring ch. 
 of Dunsford , the most interesting 
 being for Sir Thomas Fulford, 1610. 
 This monument has been restored 
 and freshly coloured. The ch. con- 
 tains Perp. (nave) and Dec. (chancel) 
 portions, and a very good Perp. font. 
 It has been well and judiciously 
 restored. 
 
 (For Dunsford or New Bridge , on 
 the Teign, where the scenery is very 
 picturesque, see Rte. 8.) 
 
 (The visitor to Fulford should pass 
 through the lodge opening to the 
 beech avenue, and turning rt., pro- 
 ceed a short distance on the road to 
 Clifford Bridge , on the Teign. From 
 the top of the hill there is a most 
 striking view of the gorge of the 
 Teign — between Clifford and Fingle 
 bridges — truly mountainous in cha- 
 racter, and unusual even in Devon- 
 shire ; see it described in Rte. 8.) 
 
 J m. beyond Taphouse, rt., is seen 
 the ch. tower of St. Mary Tedburn. 
 This is Perp. The ch. has been 
 restored. 2 m. beyond, at a distance 
 of i m. to the rt. the Perp. tower and 
 ch. of Cheriton Bishop. The tower is 
 fine, and one of the best in the dis- 
 trict. There are some fragments of 
 old glass in the ch. and good modem 
 windows by Hardman. The E. win- 
 dow is early Dec., and there are some 
 in the N. aisle of the same date. 
 
 The manor of Cheriton belonged to 
 the bishops of Exeter until the 16th 
 centy. On the road is Cheriton Cross , 
 a granite fragment by the wayside. 
 
 Passing the hamlet of Crockern 
 Well , where is a large and rough but 
 conveniently situated Inn , — a lane 1. 
 leads to Drewsteignton (1 m.) and to 
 Fingle Bridge (2 m. For both see 
 Rte. 8). 
 
 At Whiddon Down , 4 m. from 
 Crockern Well, where is a small 
 roadside inn, a lane 1. leads to the 
 well-known Drewsteignton Cromlech 
 (the Spinster’s Rock) and to Brad- 
 mere Bool (see both described in 
 Rte. 8). The picturesque country 
 about Chagford lies below the road 
 1. ; and against the distant horizon 
 rise conspicuously the rounded mass 
 of Cawsand and the crest of Kestor. 
 
 Some distance farther on the road, 
 and near the 6th milestone from 
 Okehampton, a lane rt. leads to 
 Oxenham , and another through the 
 village of South Zeal , joining the road 
 we have been following near Stickle - 
 path. Oxenham , now a farmhouse, 
 gave name to an ancient family (still 
 flourishing), who have possessed it 
 from the time of Henry III. until 
 1814. It is to this family that the 
 remarkable tradition belongs, re- 
 corded in Howell’s letters. A bird 
 with a white breast is said to appear 
 to its members as a forewarning of 
 death ; and Howell declares that he 
 saw at a stonemason’s in Fleet Street 
 a monument (about to be sent into 
 Devonshire, with an inscription) 
 recording this appearance. There 
 is also a pamphlet (date 1641) in 
 the Bodleian library (Gough’s collec- 
 tion), describing the Oxenhams’ bird, 
 and it is there said that Bishop Hall 
 had directed the clergyman of the 
 parish to enquire into the truth of 
 the matter. No such monument as 
 Howell mentions is now to be found 
 either at South Tawton or at 
 Zeal Monachorum, where lived that 
 branch of the family to whose mem- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route Q.— Cawsand Beacon. 
 
 75 
 
 bers the bird is said by him to have 
 appeared. 
 
 The old road by South Zeal , already 
 mentioned, should here be followed 
 in preference to the other. The 
 village is curious and picturesque, 
 with a Perp. chapel (now used as a^ 
 school-house) standing in the middle 
 of the street. Kemark also the 
 “ Oxenham Arms ” inn — a house of 
 the loth centy. The ch. of South 
 Tawton , which lies about 1 m. N., is 
 Perp., with a good carved pulpit. 
 Here are large limestone quarries, 
 which have been worked for a very 
 long period. The excavations and 
 heaps of refuse are so curious and 
 picturesque that they deserve a visit. 
 The limestone belongs to the carboni- 
 ferous beds, and is excellent for agri- 
 cultural purposes. There are few or 
 no fossils, but Posidonia is occasion- 
 ally found. The road returns to the 
 former track at 
 
 Sticklepath (i. e. steep road, A.-S. 
 stigele , steep. Stickle is the west- 
 country word for a rapid. Stickles 
 and ranges are respectively the rough 
 shallows and smooth reaches of a 
 stream). The village of Sticklepath 
 contains an ancient chapel with 
 thatched roof; and here is a small 
 inn, where the traveller should rest 
 and consult the Handbook ; for this 
 village is a good starting-point for 
 the ascent of Cawsand Beacon , or Cos- 
 don (its old and no doubt true name). 
 There are some antiquities, too, in 
 the neighbourhood, and fine moor- 
 land scenes near Belstone and in the 
 gorge from which the Taw issues. 
 (These are described post , — Exc. from 
 Okehampton ; but even if the tourist 
 proceed at once to Okehampton, 4 m. 
 further, he will find Sticklepath one 
 of the best points from which to as- 
 cend Cawsand.) 
 
 Ascent of Cawsand Beacon. At the 
 W. end of the village, 1. of the road, 
 is a granite cross , rudely sculptured, 
 and from that ancient guide-post a 
 path will lead the traveller along the 
 river-bank to Taw Marsh, where the 
 
 peculiar scenery of the border is dis- 
 played in perfection. The swampy 
 vale is wildly decked with grey 
 stones ; clatters , or the debris of 
 rocks, stream down the neighbour- 
 ing slopes ; whilst aloft in the blue 
 .air stand the giant tors. From this 
 valley (whose peaty soil entombs the 
 oak and the birch) the pedestrian 
 can steer direct for the summit of 
 Cosdon (1792 ft. above the sea), 
 which commands an amazing view. 
 (It is the “hoga de Cosdon ” of the 
 perambulation of Dartmoor forest 
 borders made in 1240. Blog a, the 
 root of the many “hogs’ backs” 
 scattered throughout England, sig- 
 nifies “ a height,” and seems to be a 
 hard form of the A.-S. heah— high — 
 the last letter of which was a strong 
 guttural.) On a clear day the Bris- 
 tol Channel, near Bude, may be 
 seen ; but the English Channel from 
 Teignmouth to the Start is com- 
 monly visible. Dartmoor is, how- 
 ever, the most impressive feature of 
 the prospect. Far and wide stretch 
 its desolate hills, the ancient haunt 
 of wolves and wild deer, and bar- 
 barians as untamed ; a solitary won- 
 drous region, everywhere darkened 
 by morasses, and piled with fantastic 
 rocks. To the W. will be seen Yes 
 Tor (2050 ft.), the highest hill in the 
 south of England; to the S. the 
 rocks of Heytor; and to the S.W. 
 the grand central wilderness of 
 deeply-fissured bog, in which lie 
 concealed the mysterious pool of 
 Cranmere, and the fountains of the 
 rivers Dart, Taw, Teign, Okement, 
 and Tavy. (For a general description 
 of Dartmoor and the “ Forest,” see 
 Bte. 13.) On the summit of Cosdon is 
 an enormous cairn, where beacon- 
 fires are supposed to have been for- 
 merly kindled. There are some 
 remains, too, of kistvaens, and a small 
 circular pound ; and on the slope of 
 the hill, nearly opposite Belstone Tor, 
 a number of hut circles. The village 
 of Throwleigh will be observed below 
 Cawsand Beacon on the E. Its lofty 
 e 2 
 
76 
 
 QU 
 
 Route 6 . — Epegter tg- ^\{{^ Sect. I. 
 
 Perp. ch. tower is the finest in this 
 moorland district (Cheriton Bishop is 
 beyond these limits). The ch. itself 
 (entirely Perp.) has been (1862) re- 
 stored, but contains nothin" of special 
 interest except an unusually enriched 
 priest’s door S. of the chancel). The 
 ch. house is a good 15th-centy. cot- 
 tage, with lych-gate of the same 
 date. The ch.-yard has been admi- 
 rably cared for. W. of Tlirowleigh 
 ch. about J m. is Shelstone Pound , in 
 the midst of the site of a British 
 village. This enclosure was until 
 1865 in a very perfect state, formed 
 by a ring of stones, about 7 ft. thick 
 and 3 ft. high. Part of this wall 
 has been wantonly destroyed — the 
 upper stones removed and the mas- 
 sive blocks which form tli& foundation 
 split with w T edges. The rector of 
 Throwleigh has done his best to pre- 
 vent further injury, and it becomes 
 the duty of every one to protest 
 against such needless destruction. 
 The excuse of the farmer who appro- 
 priated the stones is somewhat 
 curious : “ Whatever,” he said, “ the 
 Almighty had put in the country 
 was meant to be used in the towns, 
 so ’twas only right to take them.” 
 
 (The tourist may ascend Cawsand 
 from Sticklepath by Taw Marsh, and 
 descending on Shelstone Pound and 
 Throwleigh — the ch. tower will be 
 his guide — he may return to Stickle- 
 path by a road which winds under 
 the great hill and at last joins the 
 main road to Okehampton. This 
 will be a long and a somewhat weary- 
 ing day’s work. But the mountain 
 air is invigorating, and the side of 
 Cawsand toward Throwleigh is 
 broken into picturesque stream-hol- 
 lows, and ablaze, in the due season, 
 with furze and heather. The views 
 are everywhere delightful, and full 
 of variety.) 
 
 [Rt. of Sticklepath, 2 m., is the 
 village of Spreyton ; where, in the 
 ch.-yd., is an ancient oak-tree some 
 40 ft. in circumference. The ch. is 
 Perp. ; and a long inscription on the 
 
 w - JTJ 
 
 timbers of the chancel will interest 
 the antiquary. It records the con- 
 struction of the roof by Henry le 
 Moyne, vicar, a.d. 1451, and that he 
 was helped by a prior of Cowyk and 
 Richard Talbot, “ Dominus de Sprey- 
 ton.” (The ch. belonged to the 
 priory of Cowick, in St. Thomas’s, 
 close to Exeter. The Talbots had 
 held the manor since the reign of 
 Henry II.) The inscription further 
 runs : “ Normanniae terra Henricus 
 hie natus fuit, et ipse scripsit haec 
 omnia manu sua propria.” There 
 are many verses, among which 
 occur — 
 
 “ Stultum peccatum perpetuo sit reputatum ; 
 
 Pro solo pomo perditur omnis homo. 
 
 Virgo Deum peperit: sed si quis quomodo 
 quaerit 
 
 Non est nosse meum, sed scio pos*e Deum.” 
 
 (It should be remarked that Cow- 
 ick Priory, to which the ch. belonged, 
 was a cell attached to the famous 
 Norman Monastery of Bee — the 
 nursing mother of Lanfranc, Anselm, 
 and of many other great churchmen. 
 The Prior of Cowick in 1451 was 
 Robert of Rouen, and “Henry le 
 Moyne” was, no doubt, as he inti- 
 mates, a Norman Benedictine.) 
 
 Spreyton stands high and exposed ; 
 and it is said that 30 churches may 
 be counted from its tower roof. A 
 curious case of “overseeing” here 
 (as witching by the evil eye is 
 called in Devonshire) is recorded in 
 Aubrey’s Miscellanies.] 
 
 Leaving Sticklepath. we reach in 
 
 4 m. Okehampton, commonly 
 called Ockington ( Inn : White Hart). 
 (It has been already said that a coach 
 runs from the station daily to Laun- 
 ceston.) This little town is conve- 
 niently placed for excursions on the 
 moor, lying immediately under the 
 N. bank of Yes Tor, within an easy 
 distance of wild and rugged scenery, 
 and at the meeting of the 2 branches 
 of the Okcment river, well known, like 
 most of the streams of this county, 
 for their excellent though small trout. 
 The Okement, running northward, 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 77 
 
 Route 6 . — Okeliampton. 
 
 is a tributary of the Torridge. The 
 town lies in a valley, and is a place 
 of about 1900 inhab., disfranchised 
 by the Reform Bill. The Castle is 
 the great point of interest here. The 
 town presents nothing very notice- 
 able, except perhaps its Chapel , ded. 
 to St. James, with a granite towei^ 
 of Perp. date, and some fragments 
 of carved seats within. The Parish 
 Ch. stands on a height to the N.W. 
 It was burnt down 1842, but has 
 been well rebuilt — Hayward, of Exe- 
 ter, architect. The Perp. W. tower, 
 which resembles that of Chulmleigh, 
 was uninjured by the fire, and is 
 handsome. The Vicarage, adjoining 
 the ch., is very picturesquely placed. 
 
 The Castle is situated 1 m. S.W., 
 in the W. Okement valley, close to 
 the Launceston road. It occupies 
 the summit and eastern slope of 
 a tongue of rock, isolated by an 
 artificial cut on the W. side, by a 
 natural ravine on the N., and by the 
 valley of the Okement on the S. side. 
 Its position is very strong, and the 
 view from it of the dell of the brawl- 
 ing river — and of the skirt of Dart- 
 moor, once the Castle Park or Chace, 
 is extremely wild and beautiful. The 
 loftiest part of the ruin is a small 
 quadrangular keep, of which a frag- 
 ment resembles some time-worn crag, 
 and is inclined from the S.W. as if 
 bent by the prevailing winds. In 
 one of the adjoining walls is a curious 
 recess or oratory. Below are the 
 remains of the great hall, which will 
 be distinguished by the huge old 
 chimney, and of numerous chambers, 
 including part of a chapel, with a 
 piscina. The keep may be late Norm. 
 The lower buildings seem to range 
 between E. Dec. and Perp. The 
 ruins form a picturesque and inter- 
 esting group. This “ castrum pre- 
 nobile de Okehampton,” as William 
 of Worcester calls it — writing toward 
 the end of the 15th centy.— is said 
 by him to have been built by the 
 first Earl Thomas of the Courtenays. 
 This earl died in 1458 ; so that Wil- 
 
 liam must have seen the Castle not 
 long after its completion. But it ian- 
 not be doubted that the keep, at any 
 rate, is of earlier date ; and Earl 
 Thomas seems to have largely re- 
 paired the Castle rather than to have 
 entirely rebuilt it. 
 
 The reputed founder of this bor- 
 der castle was Baldwin de Brioniis, 
 created Earl of Devon by the Con- 
 queror — the same to whom the build- 
 ing of Exeter Castle (see Rte. 1) 
 was entrusted by William. Oke- 
 hampton was the head of the Honour 
 or Barony, and 92 fees were held of 
 it. The position, on an ancient road 
 from Cornwall, was important, and 
 may well account for the foundation 
 of the Castle, If Lidford. was de- 
 stroyed after the siege of Exeter 
 (see post), Okehampton must have 
 been passed on the way, and the site 
 may have been chosen by the Con- 
 queror himself. It afterwards, with 
 other estates, came to Reginald de 
 Courtenay (d. 1294), the first of that 
 great name who established himself 
 in England, by a marriage with 
 Hawise, daughter and heiress of 
 William and Maude de Redvers, 
 called the “Lady of Okehampton. 5, 
 The Courtenays, Barons of Oke- 
 hampton, and afterwards Earls of 
 Devon, held it with a forfeiture 
 under Edw. IV., and a restoration 
 under Henry VII., and a second 
 forfeiture in the person of Henry 
 Courtenay under Hen. VIII., and 
 a second restoration under Mary, 
 until, in the reign of Charles L, it 
 descended by marriage to the Mo- 
 huns, who became Barons of Oke- 
 hampton, and failed in 1712. Long 
 before that period the castle had 
 ceased to be a' residence of its lord. 
 In the reign of Henry VIII. it was 
 dismantled, and the chace disparked, 
 and from that time to the present the 
 bats and owls have been the only oc- 
 cupants of the ruin, which is now 
 the property of Sir R. R. Vyvyan, 
 Bart. Since the days of the Mohuns, 
 the manor, with the site of the 
 
78 
 
 Route 6 . — Exeter to Okehampton. Sect. I. 
 
 castle, has passed through many 
 hands. Mr. Pitt and Lord Clive 
 successively possessed it, the at- 
 traction at that time being not the 
 picturesque neighbourhood or an- 
 cient associations, but the fact that 
 the Lord of the Manor returned (or 
 influenced the return of) the M.P.’s 
 for Okehampton. A cross-course , 
 containing lead and silver, is worked 
 on the bank of the river below the 
 castle. 
 
 A weekly Market is held at Oke- 
 hampton on Saturdays, and, from the 
 circumstance of the oat being the 
 principal grain which is grown on 
 the high or poor land in the neigh- 
 bourhood, the supply of this article 
 is very abundant, and the price un- 
 usually ^ low. S. of the town the 
 
 Okement flows through the woods of 
 Okelands (J. H. Holley, Esq.). 
 
 Excursions from Okehampton. 
 Yes Tor ; Cranmere Pool , and the part 
 of Dartmoor round Fur Tor ; Bel- 
 stone and Cawsand Beacon; Lidford 
 and Brent Tor. All these places 
 may be made the objects of long 
 days’ excursions from Okehampton. 
 They may also be visited by pedes- 
 trians passing from Okehampton to 
 Tavistock (Yes Tor, Brent Tor, and 
 Lidford), or from Okehampton to 
 Chagford (Belstone and Cawsand). 
 Cranmere and the wild part of the 
 moor about Fur Tor, may also be 
 visited by good pedestrians, taking a 
 different route to Tavistock. (For a 
 general description of Dartmoor refer 
 to Rte. 13.) The antiquary will find 
 some interest in the unpicturesque 
 country between Okehampton and 
 Holsworthy. 
 
 (a) Those who take delight in 
 moorland scenery should make the 
 ascent of Yes Tor (probably a cor- 
 ruption of East Tor), the highest hill 
 on Dartmoor (and in England south 
 of Skiddaw), and 2050 ft. above the 
 level of the sea. The summit is 
 about 5 m. from Okehampton. The 
 
 easiest way for a stranger to ascend, 
 is to turn up by the White Hart, and 
 proceed straight on to the top of the 
 “ Park ” (see post), to a gate in the 
 stone wall, called the “ Dartmoor 
 Gate.” He will then see before him 
 3 Tors : the first, or left-hand Tor is 
 Row Tor; the middle, West Mil 
 Tor ; and the 3rd, or rt.-hand Tor, is 
 Yes Tor. By taking this route the 
 stranger will avoid all risk of miss- 
 ing the actual summit among the 
 various peaks of rock which jut out 
 on the high upland of Yes Tor. On 
 passing through the gate, let him 
 turn directly to the rt., keeping a 
 little stream to his 1., and the wall 
 to his rt. for some way, following a 
 cart track, which will take him 
 nearly to the summit, and guide him 
 to stepping-stones by which he can 
 cross most easily a stream that is 
 one of the tributaries of the W. 
 Okement. (For the view from Yes 
 Tor see post.) A longer course to 
 Yes Tor is by the valley of the W. 
 Okement (rt. bank), which for the 
 first 3 m. is of considerable width, 
 its sloping declivities presenting 
 happy contrasts of wildness and 
 cultivation. After a short ascent 
 from the town the traveller will 
 enter Okehampton Park, a rough hill- 
 side, which still preserves in its 
 name the memory of the barons’ 
 chace, and where enormous furze- 
 bushes, old hawthorns, and hollies, 
 remain as memorials of former times. 
 On the brow of the hill is Fitz’s 
 Well, a spring, it is said, of mar- 
 vellous virtues, to which it was 
 once the custom for young per- 
 sons to resort on the morning of 
 Easter-day. The castle will be ob- 
 served on the bank of the river, and 
 a little beyond it a view is obtained 
 of the old ruin in the foreground, the 
 town in the middle distance, and 
 woods and blue hills filling in the 
 background. Okehampton Park is 
 the scene of the nightly penance of 
 Lady Howard. (See Tavistock , Rte. 
 14.) At a distance of about 3 m. 
 
Devonshire. Route 6 .- 
 
 tlie valley contracts to a glen, and 
 a turn in the path opens to view 
 the mossy water-wheel of Meldon 
 Quarry , a huge and deep excavation 
 in limestone, which one should cross 
 the stream to examine. On the 1. the 
 hills are divided by a rough moor- 
 land cavity, remarkable for a white 
 granite of peculiar character, of 
 which a specimen may be seen in 
 the Museum of Practical Geology 
 (Jermyn Street). It is of so fine a 
 texture, and so pure a white, that 
 it has been employed in the ‘sculp- 
 ture of chimney pieces. J m. beyond 
 the quarry, look back at the view. 
 In another J m. the glen divides, and 
 at a solitary cottage (where a search 
 has been unsuccessfully made 'for 
 ore) the traveller leaves the Oke- 
 ment, and turns to the 1. up a deep 
 hollow, which is abruptly closed by a 
 steep acclivity. When this is sur- 
 mounted he finds himself upon the 
 upland of Yes Tor, a wilderness of 
 bog and granite, through which he 
 may at will direct his steps towards 
 the summit, which is now visible, 
 and marked by piles of stones ; but 
 he is advised to diverge a little to the 
 rt., to some rocks called Great Black 
 Tor , and to look down upon the 
 course of the W. Okement, where 
 the scene may remind him of some 
 of the Highland glens. The summit 
 of Yes Tor commands an extraor- 
 dinary prospect. On the one side lies 
 extended the hazy area of N. Devon 
 and a great part of Cornwall, sunset 
 defining by darker tints the moun- 
 tainous region of Brown Willy ; on 
 the other, an expanse so wild and 
 desolate as almost to defy description. 
 The traveller looks into the heart of 
 Dartmoor, and sees lengthening be- 
 fore him gloomy ridges which stretch 
 for miles, and are so entirely covered 
 with bog as to be inaccessible for many 
 months in the year. The morasses 
 occupy the summits as well as the 
 slopes, and are everywhere rent by 
 deep black chasms, which, intersect- 
 ing each other, cover the hills like 
 
 - Yes Tor. 79 
 
 a net. To the E. (at a distance 
 of about 4 m.) is the hillside of 
 Cawsand Beacon , which will excite 
 astonishment by the extent of its sur- 
 face : to the S.W., beyond the inter- 
 vening gorge of the W. Okement, 
 the summit of Great Links (or Lynx ; 
 Lynnick, Corn . marshy?) Tor , re- 
 sembling the ruins of walls. The 
 S. side of Yes Tor is scored with 
 long lines or streams of granite 
 stones, — such as Creswick loved to 
 paint, — which important items of a 
 wild scene, from the remoteness of 
 the locality, have hitherto escaped 
 the quarrvman. From the valley 
 on this flank of Yes Tor may be 
 observed some rocks which bear a 
 whimsical resemblance to works of 
 art, viz. on a low eminence (E.. side), 
 a tor which will undoubtedly be mis- 
 taken for the ruins of a tower ; and 
 on the hill-top (W. side) an isolated 
 mass of granite, so true in outline to 
 the figure of a huge recumbent ani- 
 mal, that it might be supposed to 
 have originated the name of Great 
 Lynx Tor. These chance resem- 
 blances are best seen from the S. end 
 of the valley. (If bound for Laun- 
 ceston or Tavistock, the pedestrian, 
 after climbing Yes Tor, may strike 
 across the deep ravine of the W. 
 Okement, direct S.W. for Lynx Tor ; 
 or, if he has had enough of rough 
 walking, he may cross the river a 
 little lower down, observing, on the 
 rt. bank, a grove of young dwarf 
 oaks — a juvenile “ Wistman's Wood.” 
 The scenery here is fine, and high 
 above the wood rise the stern, dark 
 rocks of Black Tor. After crossing 
 the river he can skirt the grassy 
 slope of Amicombe Hill, and on 
 coming opposite Lynx Tor keep 
 along the side of Noddon Hill, till 
 a gate in the wall leads him into the 
 high road close to the Dartmoor Inn, 
 near Lidford, where he may stay a 
 night if tired or wet, or proceed on 
 his way through Lidford, by Brent 
 Tor, to Tavistock.) 
 
 (6) Those who desire a more in- 
 
80 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 6 . — Exeter to Okehampton. 
 
 timate acquaintance with the moor 
 may trace the W. Okement to its 
 source near Cranmere Pool , called 
 “ the mother of rivers,” under the 
 popular idea that it contains the 
 fountains of the Taw, the Dart, the 
 Tavy, and the E. and W. Okement; 
 but, in fact, these rivers, with the 
 exception of the W. Okement, flow 
 from morasses which cover the neigh- 
 bouring hills. The miraculous pool 
 was never above 220 yds. in circumf., 
 and is now dry in summer, owing 
 entirely to the removal of peat from 
 its banks. (A bottle containing the 
 cards of visitors is to be found at 
 the pool.) It is invested with a 
 certain mystery, which has probably 
 arisen from its isolation in the midst 
 of such desolate bogs, and from the 
 many fruitless attempts made by tra- 
 vellers to discover it. The name 
 occurs in other parts of England (for 
 instance, in Woolmer Forest, Hants), 
 and, according to De Luc, signifies 
 the lake of cranes. (Crane is still a 
 name for the heron in this part of 
 Devonshire.) Should the traveller 
 fancy this bold adventure of tracing 
 the W. Okement to its fountain- 
 head, let him move obedient to the 
 following directions, which may pre- 
 vent his being checkmated at the 
 confluence of the tributaries with the 
 main stream. We suppose him under 
 the N. side of Yes Tor on the bank 
 of the river. At the 1st confluence 
 the W. Okement is the stream on the 
 rt., at the 2nd on the 1., 3rd on the 1., 
 4th on the rt., 5th on the rt., 6th on 
 the rt., 7th on the rt., 8th on the 1. 
 
 Nearly due S. from Cranmere 
 Pool lies Fur Tor (A.-S. feor = the 
 far-tor?), in the midst of a dreary 
 district, which is of considerable 
 interest for the geologist, or for the 
 lover of wild nature in her remotest 
 recesses, but which the ordinary 
 tourist is strongly recommended to 
 leave unvisited. This district, in 
 which Cranmere itself is situated, 
 consists chiefly of flat-topped ridges, 
 almost entirely covered with a de- 
 
 posit of peat varying from 12 ft. to 
 3 ft. in thickness. Some rocky sum- 
 mits — Yes Tor, High Wilhays, West 
 Mil Tor — rise here and there, and 
 the whole forms the most elevated 
 mass of land in the S. of England. 
 It is the decay of a past age, silent, 
 dreary, lifeless, without bird or ani- 
 mal, and only just retaining the power 
 of supporting a few representatives 
 of insect and vegetable life. The 
 district is to Dartmoor what Dart- 
 moor itself is to the rest of Devon- 
 shire. Fur Tor itself remains a sort 
 of island of firm ground in the sea 
 of dead peat around it. Owing to 
 these peat bogs, access to the Tor is 
 difficult, and even (to strangers) dan- 
 gerous. For the greater part of 
 the year it is indeed rarely visited 
 by any living creature except a fox. 
 There are, however, 2 tracks mark- 
 ing the approach to it; one on the 
 W. made by peat carts ; another on 
 the E., where, at some distant time, 
 a trench w r as made by removing the 
 peat down to the rock, apparently 
 with the object of letting horses or 
 oxen pass from the valley of the 
 Dart to that of the Tavy. The cli- 
 mate, owing to the elevation of this 
 district, is peculiar and unusually 
 damp, so damp that filmy ferns grow 
 on the open summit of Fur Tor. 
 Mr. Wentworth Buller found here, 
 in 1867, small patches of the Cow- 
 berry (Vaccinium Vitis-Idsea) and the 
 Crowberry (Empetrum nigrum), not 
 before known to exist in Devonshire, 
 and not found nearer than the cen- 
 tral parts of Wales, Shropshire, and 
 Derbyshire. They are, on Fur Tor, 
 the last lingering survivors of a 
 northern flora, and consequently of 
 a colder climate ; just kept alive 
 here by the peculiar circumstances 
 about them — the isolation of the dis- 
 trict, and the evaporation from the 
 great mass of peat, which never 
 allows the atmosphere to become 
 even warm. Should any tourist dis- 
 cover these plants he is earnestly re- 
 quested to respect their ancient 
 
81 
 
 Devonshire. Route 6. — Chapel 
 
 descent, and to remove no portion 
 which may lead to their extinction. 
 
 At the junction of the Tavy and 
 the Rattlebrook, m. W. of Fur 
 Tor, and on the S. slope of Ami- 
 combe Hill, are some hut circles and 
 other relics which have not been 
 sufficiently examined. There are 
 some small tumuli near them. The ' 
 pedestrian may make his way thence, 
 across Tavy Cleave, and then, keep- 
 ing White Hill S., to the high road 
 at Lidford, and the Dartmoor Inn. 
 But it must be added that this expe- 
 dition — embracing Cranmere and 
 Fur Tor — will be a long and difficult 
 day’s work. 
 
 (c) The visitor to Okehampton 
 should also ascend Cawsand Beacon , 
 alt. 1792 ft. (see ante — the ascent 
 from Sticklepath), and explore the 
 valley of the E. Okement, which 
 is rich in wild rocky scenery, par- 
 ticularly about the village of Bel- 
 stone , 2 m. distant. The river comes 
 roaring down Bclstone Cleave over a 
 solid floor of granite, and in the 
 glen of St. Michael of Halstock , near 
 Belstone, meets the Blackaven from 
 the uplands of Yes Tor. Here is 
 Chapel Ford , which preserves in its 
 name the memory of the ancient 
 shrine of St. Michael, of which there 
 is no other vestige. Belstone Tor is 
 rather more than a mile above Chapel 
 Ford, and is the highest of several 
 rocky tors (Higher Tor and Ock 
 Tor are others), which extend along 
 a ridge, dividing the valley of the 
 E. Okement from that of the Taw. 
 On the W. side of Belstone Tor 
 is a sacred circle called the Nine 
 Stones , but consisting of 17, the high- 
 est of which is barely 2^ ft. above the 
 ground. The tradition common to 
 such monuments belongs to them, 
 that they were human beings con- 
 verted into stone for merrymaking 
 on the Sabbath. They are said to 
 dance every day at noon, and, though 
 a pity to mar so pretty a fancy, it 
 may be easily explained. Currents 
 of air then rise from the heated sur- 
 
 Fofd — Steperton Tor . 
 
 face of the moor, and give an appear- 
 ance of tremulous motion to objects 
 near the ground. Belstone Church 
 contains Norman work, and is tradi- 
 tionally said to have been built by 
 Baldwin de Brioniis, the founder of 
 Okehampton Castle. The tower is 
 singularly low. 
 
 From Belstone the ascent to Caw- 
 sand is easy, and the tourist may 
 cross the hill, descending on Throw- 
 leigh, and proceeding thence through 
 picturesque lanes to Chagford. (The 
 walk will be about 12 in., but some- 
 times over very rough ground.) A 
 more striking route, perhaps, will be 
 up the valley of the Taw (Taw 
 Marsh) to Steperton Tor , which will 
 be seen rising grandly with true 
 mountainous outline at the end of 
 the glen, and apparently shutting up 
 the outlet. Ascend Steperton Tor, 
 and remark the grand view backward 
 toward Belstone, with the cultivated 
 country glimmering in the distance. 
 Yes Tor, 1., and the mass of Caw- 
 sand rising rt. Descend Steperton 
 on the opposite side, cross a branch- 
 let of the Taw, and climb Wild Tor, 
 the second of 3 heights in a range 
 (Steeperton, Wild, and Watern Tors). 
 Again descend, and climb Watern 
 Tor, whence the view differs, ex- 
 tending more in the direction of 
 Heytor. These tors are remarkable 
 for the great disintegration of their 
 granite, which seems to lie in thin 
 strata, curiously tabled. Decay has 
 acted along the N. and S. and E. and 
 W. lines of joint. (See a paper by 
 Mr. G. W. Ormerod in the ‘Journal 
 of the Geological Society,’ August, 
 1869.) The central block of Watern 
 Tor is known as the “Thirlstone” 
 
 ( [thyrelan , A.-S. to pierce), and is 
 pierced by an opening high enough, 
 say the moormen, for “ a man on 
 horseback to ride through.” From 
 Watern Tor, keeping Kestor Rock 
 (nearly due opposite) in view, the 
 tourist may cross the N. Teign, reach 
 Kestor, and proceed through a laby- 
 rinth of lanes to Chagford. He may 
 e 3 
 
82 Route 6 . — Exeter to Okehampton. Sect. I. 
 
 visit the circles, avenues, and huts 
 about Kestor on his way. (For 
 these, and for the road from Kestor 
 to Chagford see Rte. 8. Exc. from 
 Chagford.) This walk is to be highly 
 recommended, but it is one of some 
 labour, and not to be undertaken in 
 doubtful weather. 
 
 > ( d) Between Okehampton and Ta- 
 vistock are three very remarkable 
 objects, viz. Lidford Bridge, Lidford 
 Cascade , and Brent Tor . The village 
 of Lidford is 9 m. from Okehampton, 
 and the road to it runs over elevated 
 ground under the escarpment of Dart- 
 moor. In 6 m. the traveller reaches a 
 few cottages, collectively known by 
 the name of Lake, where, 1. of the 
 road, in a deep^gully, is a small cop- 
 per-mine called Tor Wood , deserving 
 notice for its water-wheel and pic- 
 turesque locality, and on the neigh- 
 bouring heights Granite Tor , very 
 beautifully covered with snow-white 
 lichens, which show that the rock is 
 not granite, although the name would 
 seem to imply it. (The true name 
 seems to be Grin Tor.) About 2 m. 
 from Lake the road crosses Vale Down, 
 a projection from Dartmoor, beyond 
 which a lane on the rt. leads in 
 J m. to 
 
 Lidford. There is a small Inn , 
 called the Dartmoor Inn , on the high 
 road, 1 m. from the village; and a 
 better, the Manor Hotel , close to the 
 cascade. The accommodation in 
 both, however, is but indifferent. 
 The stranger will learn with surprise 
 that before the Conquest this group 
 of “ ragged cottages, cold, treeless, 
 and unprotected/’ was one of the 
 principal towns in Devonshire, and 
 the seat of a mint, which, however, 
 was worked only for a short time, 
 and principally through the reign of 
 Ethelred II. The Exon Domesday 
 records that the “ borough ” of Lid- 
 ford was held by Edward the Con- 
 fessor ; that there were 28 burgesses 
 within the walls and 41 without, 
 paying 3 pounds yearly to the 
 
 king ; and that when the “ fyrd or 
 war-gathering was called out by 
 land or sea, Lidford contributed in 
 the same proportion as Totnes or i 
 Barnstaple. It is added that 40 
 houses were “wasted” in the bo- \ 
 rough, “ postquam Willelmus rex | 
 habuit Angliam.” This destruction 
 must have taken place after the 
 siege of Exeter (see Rte. 1), and 
 during the advance of the Conqueror 
 into Cornwall. It probably inti- 
 mates that the men of Lidford made | 
 what, to have been so severely 
 punished, must have been a fierce , 
 resistance. Lidford was at this time 
 a larger borough than Barnstaple. 
 
 Its importance was no doubt due to 
 its position on the edge of the great 
 tin-streaming district of Dartmoor. 
 
 It was the principal town of the 
 Devonshire “stannary,” and its 
 castle was always attached to the 
 Royal forest of Dartmoor, the whole 
 of which (within the forest bounds) 
 is included in the parish— 56,333 
 acres, with less than 300 inhabited 
 houses, and a pop. of only 2815. 
 Henry III. granted the castle and 
 the forest to his brother, Richard of 
 Cornwall. They were at a later pe- 
 riod granted to Peter de Courtenay ; 
 but subsequently they were united to 
 the Duchy of Cornwall, as they still 
 remain. (For further notice of the 
 history of the forest see Rte. 13.) 
 The importance of Lidford, either as 
 a stannary town or as a hunting 
 castle, has long ceased; and at the 
 present day the chief interest of the 
 place is derived from its position, as 
 it stands in full view of the western 
 front of Dartmoor. The objects of 
 curiosity are the ruin of the castle , 
 an old weather-beaten church , and a 
 bridge which is one of the wonders 
 of the county. 
 
 The Castle , however, scarcely merits 
 notice, except as a feature in a distant 
 view of the village, being merely the 
 shell of a square tower on a mound 
 by the roadside. It is of evil notoriety 
 as an ancient prison of the Stannary 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 6 . — Lidford . 
 
 83 
 
 Court, and in 1512 was described in 
 an act of Pari, as “ one of the most 
 heinous, contagious, and detestable 
 places in the realm. " The Stannary 
 Court, which was held in it until late 
 in the last centy., was of no better 
 repute, for its proceedings are said to 
 have been so arbitrary in their cha- 
 
 racter that 44 hang first and try after- Tong front of Dartmoor with its giant 
 
 wards" was the fundamental maxim 
 of 44 Lidford law." Accordingly 
 Browne the poet, a native of Tavi- 
 stock, has given us the following 
 humorous description : — 
 
 “ I've ofttimes heard of Lidford law, 
 
 How in the morn they hang and draw, 
 
 And sit in judgment after ; 
 
 At first I wonder'd at it much, 
 
 But since, I've found the matter such 
 That it deserves no laughter. 
 
 They have a castle on a hill ; 
 
 I took it for an old windmill, 
 
 The vanes blown off by weather. 
 
 To lie therein one night 'tis guess’d 
 ’Twere better to be stoned or press'd, 
 
 Or hang’d, ere you come hither.” 
 
 (The whole of Browne’s verses on 
 Lidford will be found in the appendix 
 to Rowe’s 4 Dartmoor/) 
 
 Some have derived 44 Lidford law " 
 from 44 the strange acts of tyranny " 
 committed by Sir Richard Grenville 
 (temp. Charles I.) when governor of 
 the castle, but the phrase had a much 
 earlier origin, as it occurs in a 
 curious poem on the deposition of 
 Richard II., edited by Mr. Wright. 
 (Is it possible that it can have ori- 
 ginated from the destruction of the 
 borough by the Conqueror’s host ?) 
 The Stannary Courts had great privi- 
 leges, and their customs were no 
 doubt of extreme antiquity; hence, 
 except among the miners, they were 
 in no very good repute. The in- 
 famous Jeffreys presided as judge at 
 Lidford, and the inhabitants affirm 
 that his ghost to this day occasionally 
 visits the old court-room in the shape 
 of a black pig. The castle was 
 founded at a period subsequent to the 
 Conquest, and by charter of Edw. I. 
 was made the Stannary Prison for 
 Devonshire. It is sometimes called 
 the 44 Castle of Dartmoor," as the 
 
 head of the Forest. In 1650 it was 
 dilapidated. There is a tradition of 
 a subterranean passage leading from 
 it to the neighbouring ravine. 
 
 The ch. (which is Perp., but of no 
 great architectural interest) is close 
 to the castle, and commands a mag- 
 nificent view, particularly of the 
 
 tors. In the churchyard the stranger 
 will notice an old tombstone resem- 
 bling a cromlech, and the following 
 curious specimen of west-country 
 wit inscribed on a tomb by the porch : 
 
 44 Here lies in horizontal position 
 the outside case of George Routleigh, 
 watchmaker ; whose abilities in that 
 line were an honour to his profession. 
 Integrity was the mainspring, and 
 prudence the regulator, of all the 
 actions of his life. Humane, gene- 
 rous, and liberal, his hand never 
 stopped till he had relieved distress. 
 So nicely regulated were all his mo- 
 tions that he never went wrong, ex- 
 cept w'hen set a-going by people who 
 \ did. not know his key. Even then 
 ' he was easily set right again. He 
 had the art of disposing his time so 
 well, that his hours glided away in 
 one continual round of pleasure and 
 delight, till an unlucky minute put a 
 period to his existence. He departed 
 this life Nov. 14, 1802, aged 57, wound 
 up in hopes of being taken in hand 
 by his Maker, and of being thoroughly 
 cleaned and repaired and. set a-going 
 in the world to come." 
 
 A short descent leads from the 
 ch. to Lidford Bridge , which in point 
 of situation much resembles that of 
 the Pont y Mynach, or Devil’s Bridge, 
 in Cardiganshire. It consists of a 
 single arch, which is thrown across a 
 frightful cleft or ravine; the sur- 
 rounding country, though open and 
 bleak, is cultivated and disposed in 
 such gentle undulations, that the 
 traveller would never suspect the 
 vicinity of such a chasm. Many 
 persons have in fact passed over the 
 bridge without being aware that it 
 was an object of curiosity. The river 
 
Sect. I. 
 
 84 Route 6 .- — Exeter to Okehampton . 
 
 Lid, rising on Dartmoor, here worms 
 its way through a cleft about 70 ft. 
 deep, but not more than a few yards in 
 breadth, and so narrow towards the 
 bottom that the struggling stream can 
 be scarcely discerned in noonday. 
 (Hence, probably, the name of the 
 stream, — from the A.-S. hlidan = to 
 cover or close.) To obtain a good 
 view of the singular scene, it is 
 necessary to scramble as far as prac- 
 ticable down the rocks. The descent 
 above the bridge, however, is very 
 dangerous.. Below , the river may be 
 approached by a path formed along 
 a ledge of rock on one side. This 
 path is entered by a gate, the key of 
 which is kept in the village. The 
 view below the bridge is very re- 
 markable, with the lofty, gloomy 
 cliffs nearly approaching either side, 
 and the stream worming and rushing 
 through the narrow channel. The 
 visitor should also ascend the course 
 of the river (about 1 m.) to Kitt’s 
 Fall , a small cascade named (says 
 tradition) from the circumstance of a 
 young woman called Catherine, or 
 Kitty, having been drowned near it in 
 attempting to cross the stream when 
 swollen by rain ; and, if an antiquary, 
 1} m. farther, to the basement of an 
 ancient hut , of which both the form 
 and construction are uncommon. It 
 is situated on the river-bank, below 
 Doe Tor . The shape is rectangular, 
 and the stones set face to face. 
 
 A story is told of a person who 
 arrived at Lidford from Tavistock 
 late one night, much to the astonish- 
 ment of the inhabitants, as the bridge 
 had been broken down. The tra- 
 veller, however, had remarked no- 
 thing more than that his horse had 
 made a sudden spring. Upon being 
 afterwards shown the fearful chasm 
 which he had thus unconsciously 
 passed, it may be imagined with what 
 mingled sensations he contemplated 
 the danger so narrowly escaped. It 
 is also said that a Captain Williams 
 having determined upon destroying 
 himself, rode at night from Exeter to 
 
 Lidford Bridge, and, as was after- 
 wards discovered by the marks on the 
 road, endeavoured to spur his horse 
 over the parapet. The horse, how- 
 ever, refused the leap, and was the 
 next day found loose on the road ; but 
 the saddle and bridle were discovered 
 entangled among the trees, and it is 
 supposed that Captain Williams, in 
 the vain hope of concealing the wil- 
 fulness of his desperate act, threw 
 them into the ravine before he sprang 
 into it himself. In the reign of 
 Charles I. Lidford glen would have 
 often afforded subjects for the pencil 
 of a Salvator — savage rocks, wild 
 woods, and outlaws — for the neigh- 
 bourhood was the favourite haunt of 
 Roger Rowle, the Robin Hood of the 
 West. He was the leader of the 
 Gubbins , a gang of broken men, with 
 the like of whom the remoter parts of 
 England were then greatly infested. 
 “ Gubbins’ land,” says old Fuller, 
 “ is a Scythia within England, and 
 they, pure heathens therein. Their 
 language is the drosse of the dregs 
 of the vulgar Devonian. They hold 
 together like burrs ; offend one, and 
 all will revenge his quarrel.” (See 
 Rte. 13.) 
 
 At Lidford the traveller has entered 
 the mining -field which lies between 
 Dartmoor and the Tamar, and several 
 mines of copper, manganese, and lead 
 are scattered over the country in the 
 vicinity of this village and Brent 
 Tor. 
 
 Lidford Cascade is situated imme- 
 diately rt. of the Tavistock road, 1 3 
 m. from Lidford. It is in one of the 
 prettiest spots imaginable, although 
 the seclusion has been materially 
 injured by the Tavistock and Laun- 
 ceston rly., which runs through this 
 wooded glen. A small stream which 
 has its source on Blackdown here 
 slides about 110 ft. down a dark- 
 coloured schistose slope to join the 
 Lid in its deep ravine. The ad- 
 joining ledges are mantled with 
 trees, and the scene, soft and tran- 
 quil in character, contrasts delight- 
 
Devonshire. Route 6. — Lew Trenchard — Brent Tor. 
 
 85 
 
 fully with the rough moorland views 
 from the higher grounds. A zigzag 
 walk has been cut to the foot of 
 the cascade ; and a miller, who lives 
 hard by, keeps, besides the key of 
 this approach, a certain quantity of 
 water ponded back, which, by the 
 magic of sixpence, may be made to 
 spring over the fall, to which it gives- - 
 an imposing volume and impetuosity. 
 Observe the view from the top of the 
 winding descent, where the village and 
 castle of Lidford are seen in connec- 
 tion with the wild front of Dartmoor, 
 the lower parts of the picture being 
 occupied by the wooded ravine of the 
 Lid. “ The fall of the river,” says 
 Gilpin, “is the least considerable part 
 of the scenery.” 
 
 (N7W. of Lidford is Lew Tren- 
 chard , so-named from the family 
 which at one time held it ; but be- 
 fore the close of the 17th cent, it 
 became the property of the Goulds, 
 an ancient race which is honoured 
 by the attendance of a true “ White 
 Lady.” This is held to be the spirit 
 of a certain Madam Gould ; but she 
 appears always in white, with long 
 hair, and sparkling as if covered 
 with water drops. She haunts the 
 avenue of the old house, and was 
 often seen in a long gallery wdiich 
 has been pulled down. See the 
 curious account contributed by the 
 Rev. S. Baring-Gould to Henderson’s 
 ‘Northern Folk Lore.’) 
 
 Brent Tor , or the Burnt Tor (2^ m. 
 beyond Lidford Cascade, on the road 
 to Tavistock, and in alt. 1100 ft.), is 
 an outlying peak of the great Dart- 
 moor range, from which it is now 
 further separated by cultivation. 
 This is a singular eminence ; it 
 is capped by a church, and when seen 
 from a distance, grouped with other 
 Dartmoor hills, resembles in shape a 
 flame starting upwards from the 
 earth. This conical form and its 
 mineral formation have excited much 
 discussion among geologists. Some 
 have seen in Brent Tor the crater of 
 an extinct volcano {red jasper may be 
 
 found in blocks on the N. side of the 
 hill), and there is but little doubt that 
 its substance is of igneous origin, 
 identical with other rocks inter- 
 mixed with the carbonaceous de- 
 posits, and termed volcanic ash by De 
 la Beche. The name of the hill is 
 thus singularly appropriate ; but it 
 doubtless originated in beacon-fires, 
 which anciently “ flamed amaze- 
 ment” from this frontier summit. 
 (The word, used by Spenser and 
 other old writers, is the part, of the 
 Saxon brennan, to burn.) The Church , 
 called St. Michael de Rupe in old 
 records (of which one dates as early 
 as 1283), is a curious little weather- 
 worn structure, about 40 ft. in length 
 by 14 in breadth, with a roof of oak, 
 and lighted by 3 small windows. 
 The building is very plain, but is 
 apparently E. Eng., as the low 
 western tower (32 ft. high) certainly 
 is. It was attached to the great 
 Benedictine Abbey of Tavistock. 
 It stands on the verge of a precipice, 
 and in a diminutive churchyard, 
 containing a few mouldering grave- 
 stones. An erroneous idea has been 
 very generally entertained, that in 
 digging burial-places at this spot 
 the rock is found to be so saturated 
 with moisture that the excavation 
 is in a short time filled with water. 
 The fact is, however, that the 
 ground is as dry here as in other 
 churchyards ; and the notion doubt- 
 less originated in an incident which 
 occurred after a heavy fall of rain, 
 when, a coffin being brought for in- 
 terment, the grave was found partly 
 filled with water, which had been 
 directed into it by a shoot from the 
 roof of the ch. There is, however, 
 no lack of water on the hill; as on 
 its eastern side a spring gushes forth 
 which has been never known to fail ; 
 and the village of N. Brentor is sup- 
 plied by wells, some of which are 10 
 fath. deep. To return to the little ch., 
 which bears every mark of antiquity 
 and of the weather, to which it is so 
 exposed. Its erection is attributed 
 
86 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 6 . — Exeter to Ohehampton. 
 
 by tradition to a merchant, who, 
 overtaken by a storm at sea, vowed 
 to build a ch. upon the first point 
 of land which should appear in 
 sight. This happened to be the 
 lofty peak of Brent Tor, and here, 
 accordingly, he founded his ch. But 
 another version of the story places 
 the building originally at the foot 
 of the hill, and attributes its re- 
 moval to that busybody the Devil, 
 who, being “prince of the powers 
 of the air,” carried the ch. to the 
 summit, which lay in his own do- 
 minions. No sooner, however, had 
 the edifice been dedicated to St. 
 Michael, than the archangel ousted 
 the enemy, and, tumbling him down- 
 hill, sent flying at his heels a huge 
 rock, which, it is said, may be seen 
 to this day at the base of the tor. 
 (A similar story is told of Buck- 
 fastleigh Church, Rte. 12.) There 
 is a similarity in the situation of 
 this building, those of the chapels 
 on the mounts of St. Michael on the 
 coasts of Cornwall and Normandy, 
 and that on the chapel-rock in Tor- 
 bay. All these churches are dedi- 
 cated to St. Michael ; such elevated 
 sites being often selected as sig- 
 nificant of the l archangel's position 
 at the head of the angelic hier- 
 archy. In ancient times the abbots 
 of Tavistock held an annual Michael- 
 mas fair on Brent Tor. On the 
 single bell of the church is a curi- 
 ous inscription — “ Gallus vocor ego, 
 solus super omne sono.” The view 
 of the moor from this elevated spot 
 is truly [delightful. When the sun 
 shines brightly, the spectral appear- 
 ance and delicate tints of these barren 
 hills are remarkable. The most con- 
 spicuous summits of this, the western, 
 front of Dartmoor are Great Links 
 Tor in the N., capped by masses of 
 granite, resembling the walls of a 
 fortress ; Hare Tor nearly opposite, 
 distinguished by the beauty of its 
 conical form ; and Great Mis Tor , one 
 of the most imposing of the Dartmoor 
 hills, about 4 m. farther S. In the 
 
 direction of Hare Tor the traveller 
 looks up the valley of the Tavy, or 
 Tavy Cleave , and upon a cloud of 
 miners' huts, marking the site of the 
 great copper-mine of 
 
 ILuel (pronounced “ Wheal ”) 
 Friendship . This mine is well worth 
 a visit, and is no great distance 
 from Brent Tor. It is highly re- 
 munerative to the adventurers, and 
 curious as being entirely worked 
 by water. The machinery kept in 
 action by this motive-power is on 
 the largest scale ; and the manner 
 in which the element is econo- 
 mized and made to traverse every 
 part of the surface, so as to turn 
 a number of colossal wheels and to 
 perform other labours, shows great 
 ingenuity. The mine is provided 
 with a steam-engine, as a precaution 
 against a drought ; but the supply of 
 water is seldom deficient The high 
 road from Tavistock to Exeter passes 
 through the works. 
 
 The valley of the Tavy (see Tavi- 
 stock , Rte. 14) abounds in picturesque 
 scenery. The stream is of a very 
 beautiful character, the limpid water 
 flowing over schistose rocks, which 
 occupy its bed in masses. If inclined 
 for a wild excursion, you may ascend 
 the river to the source of its northern 
 branch on Dartmoor, passing under 
 the escarpment of Hare Tor. It lies 
 on a boggy platform, immediately 
 above the valley previously described 
 as on the southern flank of Yes Tor. 
 You can then ascend Yes Tor, and 
 pass down the valley of the W. 
 Okement to Okehampton. Another 
 walk may be taken over the moor by 
 Cranmere Pool to Okehampton, or 
 by Great Mis Tor to Prince's Town. 
 
 ( e .) The walk from Okehampton 
 across the moor to Prince Town or 
 Two Bridges is a very fine one, and 
 to be highly recommended. (See 
 farther in Rte. 13.) The tourist is 
 advised to provide himself with what 
 a Welsh Triad might class as the 
 three essentials of a moorland travel- 
 ler, — a good map (the sheet of the 
 
Devonshire. Route 6.~Bridestow—Idf ton— Poulston. 87 
 
 Ordnance Survey which contains 
 Dartmoor), a pocket compass, and a 
 pocket flask. He is to be warned 
 also, that such excursions are not 
 unattended with hazard, and that 
 deep bogs and sudden mists are to 
 be watched against. The latter 
 sometimes arise very quickly ; but 
 the 44 natives’" will generally be able 
 to tell a stranger when the weather 
 is safe. 
 
 (/) The road from Okehampton 
 to Holsworthy runs through a dreary 
 tract of country, into which the tra- 
 veller in search of the picturesque 
 must not be sent. But it crosses the 
 high land of Broadbury , toward the 
 S.-E. corner of which is Broadbury 
 Castle , an oblong rectangular en- 
 trenchment, 266 ft long by 236 wide. 
 It is enclosed by a single vallum, 
 18 ft. high at the highest part, 
 and by a fosse 25 ft. broad. There 
 are four entrances, one at each side. 
 This camp is most probably Roman, 
 and in the neighbourhood are 
 44 Chester moor,” 44 Scobchester,” and 
 44 Wickchester,” names indicating 
 the ancient presence and works of 
 the “terrarum domini.” Broad- 
 bury is dotted with barrows, some 
 of which are of considerable size and 
 bell - shaped. The Roman road 
 which (it is believed) ran from 
 Exeter to the Bristol Channel passed 
 close to Broadbury Castle. But the 
 course of this road, and the relics 
 just mentioned, call for much more 
 careful examination than they have 
 hitherto received. The castle is in 
 the parish of North Lew, a place so 
 remote and dreary that, according 
 to a popular saying, 44 the devil died 
 there of the cold.” 
 
 Having returned to Okehampton 
 after this long digression, and pro- 
 ceeding again towards Launceston, — 
 The road passes the Castle on the 
 1., and, skirting Dartmoor for some 
 distance, commands the numerous 
 tors which crown the detached sum- 
 mits. 
 
 4 m. from Sourton Down a road 
 branches off on the 1. to Lidford and 
 Tavistock. 
 
 2J m. Bridestow. The churchyard 
 has a curious gateway, formed by a 
 Norm, arch removed from an earlier 
 ch. The present Church dates about 
 1450, and contains a good roodscreen 
 of wood, surmounted by the royal 
 arms, which fill up the chancel 
 arch. It is dedicated to St. Bridget 
 (St. Bride), hence the name of the 
 parish. On the 1. is Leawood House 
 (S. C. Hamlyn, Esq.); and beyond the 
 village, on the rt., and situated in a 
 pretty valley, Millaton , the house of 
 J. G. Newton, Esq., which contains 
 (or did contain) a collection of stuffed 
 birds , including the following rare 
 specimens, procured on Dartmoor, 
 or in its immediate vicinity — the 
 merlin, grey shrike, golden oriole, 
 hawfinch, parrot crossbill, great 
 black woodpecker, wryneck, red- 
 legged partridge, little egret, and 
 little crake. Further towards Lifton, 
 on rt., is Haine Castle (C. A. Harris, 
 Esq.). 
 
 8 j- m. Lifton . The ch. is Perp., with 
 a good Norm. font. In this neigh- 
 bourhood the Lid and two other 
 trout-streams effect a junction. 
 About 3 m. S. are Kelly House (A. 
 Kelly, Esq.), and ch. with good an- 
 cient stained glass ; and Bradstone 
 Manor-house , an old Tudor building 
 approached through a gatehouse. 
 The latter was formerly a seat of 
 the Cloberry family, but is now 
 tenanted by a farmer. 
 
 1. Lifton Park (H. Bradshaw, 
 Esq.), an ancient possession of the 
 Arundel family, whose quarterings 
 are suspended in the village. 
 
 1 \ m. Poulston . Here the traveller 
 will cross the Tamar, although 
 44 there passeth a pleasant tradition,” 
 says Fuller, 44 how there standeth on 
 Poulston Bridge a man of great 
 strength and stature, with a black 
 
88 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 bill in his hand, ready to knock down 
 all the lawyers that should offer to 
 plant themselves in the county of 
 Cornwall.” In about 2 m., how- 
 ever, whether lawyer or not, he will 
 in these days reach the old town of 
 Launceston . (Rte. 21.) 
 
 ROUTE 7. 
 
 EXETER TO PLYMOUTH. — (PAWLISH, 
 TEIGNMOUTH, NEWTON, TOTNES, 
 IVY BRIDGE, AND THEIR NEIGH- 
 BOURHOODS.) 
 
 South Devon Rly. (St. David’s 
 Stat. — see Rte. 1 — Exeter.) 
 
 The S. Devon Railway, an in- 
 teresting line to travel over, from 
 its vicinity to the sea, and one of 
 the most picturesque in England, 
 was originally laid down as an atmos- 
 pheric line, and the numerous engine- 
 houses, designed with much taste, 
 still remain as monuments of an ex- 
 periment which cost the company 
 364,000^., total loss. 
 
 Leaving the St. David's Station , the 
 line crosses by a low timber bridge to 
 the rt. bank of the Exe. 1. is seen 
 the line of railway connecting St. 
 David’s stat. with that in Queen 
 Street (S. Western, and Exmouth 
 rlwys.), and on rising ground a part 
 of the suburbs of Exeter ; above, on 
 a higher hill, are the lofty trees and 
 buildings of the castle, and the old 
 walls of the town. The new Ch. 
 of St. Michael is conspicuous 1., and 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 winding round the high ground on 
 which Exeter is built, we reach St. 
 Thomas' Stat., communicating with 
 the W. end of the city. 
 
 The line next traverses the marshes, 
 leaving close on the rt. the red tower 
 (Perp. and turreted) of Alphington 
 Church , known for its Norman font 
 with carved bowl, of early date. The 
 carving is held to represent St. Mi- 
 chael and the dragon. The font was 
 copied for the Temple ch., London. 
 The chancel -screen is of the 15th 
 centy. ; late, and of no great interest. 
 The ch. is generally fine, and well 
 placed ; the ancient shield and sup- 
 porters of the Courtenays may be 
 traced on the porch. Near the ch. is 
 a very pretty valley and trout-stream, 
 and opposite Alphington, on the 1., 
 the embankment of the Exeter Ship 
 Canal. 
 
 3 m. rt. close to the road the Devon 
 County Lunatic Asylum, long under the 
 excellent management of Dr. Buck- 
 nill. 
 
 5 m. rt. Exminster. The ch. is Perp., 
 with a good screen.— 1., across the 
 river, the town of Topsham, with its 
 white houses, ch., and shipping. 
 
 [2J m. rt. is Kenn ch., Perp., in 
 which is a good carved screen.] 
 In this neighbourhood are lime- 
 stone-quarries, and contortions of 
 the strata which may be observed in 
 the cuttings of the road. Peamore 
 House, a fine old mansion, is the seat 
 of S. T. Kekewich, Esq., M.P. 
 
 2 m. The line approaches Powder - 
 ham (Earl of Devon). First is seen 
 the Belvidere, a prospect - tower, 
 erected in 1773, on an eminence near 
 the castle, and commanding delightful 
 views. It is 60 ft. high. Next the 
 Church (very near the line,rt.),a Perp. 
 building, with a modern chancel, 
 added by the present earl. It dates 
 from about 1470, but is of no very 
 high interest. In the S. aisle is a 
 monument, with effigy often ascribed 
 to Isabella de Fortibus, Countess of 
 Devon temp. Hen. III. She was 
 buried, however, in the Ch. of Brea- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 1 .—Powderham Castle* 
 
 89 
 
 more Priory, Hants; — and this effigy 
 is of very much later date. There 
 are also modern monuments and me- 
 morial windows for Harriet, Countess 
 of Devon (d. 1 839), and the Hon. T. P. 
 Courtenay ; besides a monument of 
 great beauty for the late Countess of 
 Devon, with effigy in white marble, 
 by Stephens. Here is also a small 
 memorial Brass for Mr. Dinham, who 
 was a native of Powderham (see 
 Exeter , Rte. 1). Much has been done 
 for this ch. of late years by the Cour- 
 tenay family. Finally, the Park and 
 Castle appear. The park covers a 
 large tract of undulating ground, 
 and its woods of oak stretch their 
 branches to the very brink of the 
 estuary. It is not open to the 
 public beyond the footpaths which 
 cross it. One of these, from Kenton, 
 across the river Ken, skirting the 
 hill of the Belvidere, and ending at 
 the village of Powderham, is well 
 worth following. There are deer 
 in the park. The castle is shown 
 throughout May , June , and July , by 
 tickets to be obtained from the 
 steward, Mr. Drew, Kenton. It is 
 well seen from the rly., but will 
 probably disappoint, as the walls 
 look so fresh in their coats of 
 plaster, that it is difficult to believe 
 they have formed the seat of a branch 
 of the “ imperial family ” for the 
 last 500 years, and before that of 
 the Bohuns. At the time of the 
 Domesday survey Powderham be- 
 longed to William, Count of Eu, 
 builder of the Norman Castle of 
 Hastings. It soon passed from him, 
 and was held by a family who took 
 their name from it, and seem to 
 have held it under the Bohuns, 
 Earls of Hereford/ Humphrey de 
 Bohun gave it in marriage with his 
 daughter Margaret to Hugh Cour- 
 tenay, 2nd Earl of Devon of that 
 name, in 1325. It does not appear 
 that a castle existed here until after 
 this period, when one was erected 
 by Sir Philip Courtenay, 6th son 
 of Earl Hugh. The # oldest part of 
 
 the present building dates from the 
 reign of Richard II. It was ori- 
 ginally a long parallelogram, flanked 
 irregularly by 6 towers, some of 
 which still exist, but in a much 
 altered state. The principal altera- 
 tions and additions were made in 
 4he last centy. by Sir William Cour- 
 tenay and his son, the 1st Viscount. 
 The present Earl of Devon has done 
 much at Powderham ; the W. front 
 has been rebuilt, and the old grange 
 has been converted into a spacious 
 and handsome chapel. Among the 
 pictures here are — Courtenay, Earl of 
 Devon temp. Eliz., 3-quarter — en- 
 graved in Lodge ; a full length of 
 the Duchess of Suffolk, in mourning 
 for Lady Jane Grey, if not by Hol- 
 bein, a good picture in his style; 
 General Monk, 3-quarter ; Louis 
 XVI., by V Aune ; Lady Honywood 
 and child, and Lady Courtenay, by 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Dr. Markham ; 
 and Cyril Jackson. There are some 
 pleasant gardens at a short distance 
 from the castle.' The Courtenays 
 became Earls of Devon through the 
 marriage of Reginald de Courtenay, 
 Baron of Okehampton, with the 
 daughter of Wm. de Red vers, whose 
 ancestor had been created Earl by 
 Henry I. By this marriage he 
 acquired first, the Barony of Oke- 
 hampton, and afterwards was made 
 Earl of Devon. It was the 2nd Cour- 
 tenay Earl who acquired Powderham 
 by marriage, and whose effigy, with 
 that of his wife, remains in the tran- 
 sept of Exeter Cathedral (Rte. 1). He 
 gave Powderham to his 6th son, Sir 
 Philip, whose son, Richard de Cour- 
 tenay, Bp. of Norwich (d„ 1415), 
 succeeded him here. The bishop’s 
 nephew, Philip, was then lord of 
 Powderham for 48 years. Eight Sir 
 William Courtenays succeeded. The 
 8th was created Viscount Courtenay 
 in 1762 ; and his grandson, the 3rd 
 Viscount, claimed and was allowed 
 (1832) the Earldom of Devon, which 
 had been in abeyance since the death, 
 without issue, of Edward Courte- 
 
90 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 nay, 20th Earl, at Padua, in 1556. 
 The present is the 23rd Eard. 
 
 It will be seen that the Courtenay 
 Earls of Devon did not possess 
 Powderham until the revival of the 
 Earldom in 1832. Their principal 
 castles in Devon were Okehampton 
 and Tiverton. Powderham was 
 attacked by a force sent by Fairfax 
 from Crediton in 1645 ; but was 
 successfully defended. The assail- 
 ants fortified themselves in the ch. 
 A year later the castle was surren- 
 dered to Col. Hammond. 
 
 On the opposite shore are the woods 
 of Nutwell Court , and the pretty village 
 or town of Lympstone (Rte. 5). 
 
 [1 J m. rt. of Powderham is Kenton . 
 Here there is a very fine Perp. ch., 
 which will repay a visit — “a right 
 goodly church ” it is called by 
 Leland. On the exterior , the S. aisle, 
 with porch and parvise chamber, 
 should be noticed. The aisle has 
 buttresses with pinnacles. There is 
 a good rood turret. The S. porch 
 is ornamented with a profusion of 
 niches, and is stone groined. The 
 W. tower, 100 ft. high, is fine. 
 Within , there is a superb screen, of 
 the same date as the ch. — the base 
 panelled, painted with figures of 
 saints, and of the Apostles, each dic- 
 tating an article of the Creed. Before 
 each Apostle is a Prophet, bearing a 
 label relating to the article. The 
 screen extends across the aisles ; and, 
 according to a tradition (frequent on 
 this coast), was taken from a.Spanish 
 ship. This, however, is absurd, 
 since the work is of true Devonshire 
 character. Remark the wreathed 
 capitals of the piers (a speciality of 
 Devonshire); and a capital at the 
 W. end of the N. aisle, formed by 
 heads with arms projecting and 
 folding over one another. There is 
 a hagioscope and a low side window 
 at the end of the N. aisle. The ch. 
 has been attached as a prebend to 
 Salisbury Cathedral at least from 
 the reign of Henry II. The Chapter 
 
 of Salisbury may have built it ; but 
 they were assisted probably by the 
 Courtenays, then lords of the manor ; 
 and the will of William Sleigh of 
 Kenton (1379) directs his burial in 
 the aisle he had lately built (in el a 
 quam ego ibidem de novo construxi). 
 Kenton Ch. has been well restored 
 (1870), and stained-glass windows 
 introduced. Oxton House (Major- 
 Gen. Studd) is 1^ m. W., at the foot 
 of Great Haldon, on whose dark 
 crest a lowering cloud is sure fore- 
 runner of a storm ; for 
 
 “ When Haldon hath a hat, 
 
 Kenton may beware a skat.”] 
 
 9f m. from Exeter, Starcross Stat ., 
 quite on the water-side, with a little 
 pier attached. Opposite is the town 
 of Exmouth , placed precisely, as its 
 name imports, at the mouth of the 
 estuary of the Exe. (Rte. 5.) 
 
 Starcross {Inn: Courtenay Arms) 
 is a town rising, through the in- 
 fluence of the rail, to the remunera- 
 tive dignity of a watering-place. A 
 short distance beyond it is the ferry 
 from the Warren sand-bank to Ex- 
 mouth. Rt. beyond Starcross, an 
 obelisk comes in view, crowning 
 the wooded heights of Mamhead , 
 seat of Sir Robert Newman, who fell 
 at Inkermann, and now of his brother 
 Sir Lydston Newman, Bart. The 
 house of Mamhead was built by the 
 first Sir Robert Newman ( archit. 
 Salvin.) Like the park (which con- 
 tains very fine specimens of the 
 cork-tree and ilex), it is closed to 
 the public. The little ch., built of 
 red sandstone, is Perp. In it is a 
 tablet erected by his tenants for Sir 
 R. Newman, killed at Balaclava. 
 The ch.-yard is famous for a wide 
 spreading yew-tree, said to be 860 
 years old. Under it Boswell (the 
 biographer of Johnson), when visit- 
 ing Lord Lisburne here, made a 
 solemn vow “never to get drunk 
 again,” which vow he speedily 
 broke. (Letters to Temple.) 
 
 There is a lovely walk through 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 7. — Dawlish. 
 
 9i 
 
 woods, with a view of Mamhead on 
 one side, and on the other of the 
 sea, from Starcross to Cofton Chapel 
 (2 m.), a small 12th-centy. building, 
 which lay in ruin for more than 70 
 years, and was restored by the Earl 
 of Devon in 1839. A N. aisle has 
 been added. Among the plate is a 
 curious cup, said to have been taken 
 from a Spanish ship. It is too large 
 for a chalice — octagonal in shape, 
 and made of double plaques of 
 mother-of-pearl, squared within, and 
 trefoil headed on the outside. (Can 
 it be Eastern ?) 
 
 [A very pleasant walk (about 8 m.) 
 may be taken from Starcross by 
 Mamhead and Ashcombe, over part 
 of Haldon to Chudleigh. The occa- 
 sional views are very fine. Ashcombe 
 Ch . is Perp. ; the capitals of piers 
 have the peculiar Devonshire wreath- 
 ing. Shields are introduced with the 
 arms (3 lions) of the Kirkhams, who 
 held the manor from the reign of 
 Henry III., and were the probable 
 builders of the ch. There is a 
 magnificent view toward Dartmoor 
 from the hill descending to Chud- 
 leigh.] 
 
 The line, which has hitherto run 
 between the cultivated ground and 
 the water, now cuts off a tract of salt 
 marsh and sandhill called the War- 
 ren (used for rifle practice); and, 
 turning to the rt., passes through 
 Langstone Cliff to the shore, upon 
 which, piercing occasional headlands, 
 it remains as far as Teignmouth. 
 
 3 J Dawlish Stat. is upon the beach, 
 with a good view of the Clerk Rock 
 headland. 
 
 Dawlish ( Inns : London Hotel ; 
 
 York Hotel) is a small but fashion- 
 able watering-place, of recent origin, 
 picturesque, well laid out, and with 
 peculiar features. (Pop. 4014.) It 
 is situated in one of those numerous 
 valleys for which this sheltered and 
 sunny coast has long been celebrated, 
 and is a continuation towards the 
 shore of the old village of Dawlish, 
 
 which, with the parish ch. and a few 
 villas, stands half a mile from the sea. 
 A sparkling stream flows down the 
 centre of the valley between two rows 
 of houses, which, built on each side 
 of it at the foot of the slopes, are 
 separated from each other by a grassy 
 ( enclosure, allowing an uninterrupted 
 view up the valley to the wooded 
 heights of Luscomhe (Peter R. Hoare, 
 Esq.). These houses, with a row 
 fronting the sea, form modern Daw- 
 lish. On the 1. side (looking up the 
 valley) is the modern chapel of St. 
 Mark (Heyward of Exeter, arch.). 
 
 The gardens and grounds of Lus- 
 comhe are fine. Attached to the 
 house is a very beautiful private 
 chapel, built (1862) from the designs 
 of Mr. G. G. Scott. The pillars 
 are of Devonshire marble, and the 
 carved seats of cedar, mostly grown 
 on the estate. 
 
 The hills around include the prin- 
 cipal eminence of Little Haldon , a 2 m. 
 walk from the ch., with a fine view. 
 
 The Church of Dawlish was rebuilt 
 in 1825, saving the tower, and, all 
 things considered, there is reason 
 to be grateful that it is no worse. 
 The nave piers and roof appear 
 to be in part from the old edi- 
 fice. Here, amidst a crowd of 
 monuments to visitors from all 
 parts of the kingdom, are tablets to 
 Sir Win. Grant, Capt. G. Anson 
 Byron, and Admiral Shanck. There 
 are two monuments by Flaxman. In 
 the ch.-yd., opening from the Lus- 
 combe grounds, is a “ campo santo,” 
 a private burial-ground of the Hoares. 
 It is a square enclosure, open of 
 course above, with a double arcade 
 of open arches placed on a high 
 pedestal wall, quite surrounding it. 
 
 Dawlish (Doflisc) was given by 
 Bp. Leofric to the church of Exeter ; 
 and the chapter continued to possess 
 it until the early part of the present 
 centy. The aspect of the place is 
 bright and cheering. The rly. runs 
 across the mouth of the valley. 
 Opinions differ as to its effect upon 
 
92 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 the appearance of the place ; but 
 the taste of the late Mr. Brunei 
 has been shown in a small granite 
 viaduct in a plain Egyptian style, 
 which carries the rail across the 
 brook, and affords a free com- 
 munication with the shore. The 
 rly. company have also formed a 
 handsome esplanade along the side 
 of the line, and the station-house and 
 building intended for an engine-house 
 are certainly ornamental. The por- 
 tion of the line seen from the pro- 
 menade skirts the very edge of the 
 sea, and piercing several headlands 
 has a fine effect, especially when a 
 train is approaching. 
 
 Dawlish is considered to be as 
 warm as Torquay. The prices gene- 
 rally are reasonable, and there is 
 good sea-bathing. 
 
 The cliffs of the bay, composed of 
 blood-red sandstone, traversed by nu- 
 merous faults , terminate on the W. 
 with the singular rock called the 
 Parson , bearing some resemblance to 
 a huge monk with his back against 
 the headland ; and on the E. with 
 the Lang stone, divided by the rail, 
 but still projecting as a fragment on 
 the shore. 
 
 With respect to excursions , you 
 should ascend Little Haldon , alt. 818 
 ft., commanding the estuary of the 
 Exe on the one side, and of the 
 Teign on the other. The hill is 
 strewn with blocks of quartziferous 
 porphyry, and marked by an old 
 camp called Castle Ditch , a circular 
 work 124 yds. in diam., 2i m. W. of 
 Dawlish. In a swamp at the head 
 of the valley are the ruins of Lith - 
 well Chapel (see post , Exc. from 
 Teignmouth). You should also visit 
 the promontory of the Parson and 
 Clerk , about 1 m. distant. The Par- 
 son sits at the pitch of the headland, 
 but the sea seems to have had little 
 respect for the sanctity of his person. 
 The Clerk rises from the waves in 
 advance, and W. of his master, and 
 is a whimsical figure. His head is 
 silvered with guano and bristles 
 
 like a hedgehog, whilst his raiment 
 is of many colours. One fond of 
 cliff-scenery will be gratified by a 
 scramble along the base of the cliff 
 W. of the Clerk. The rock is prin- 
 cipally a conglomerate with a mag- 
 nesio-calcareous cement, and belongs 
 to the new red sandstone, a forma- 
 tion so largely developed on this 
 coast. Observe the size of the con- 
 cavity opposite the Clerk. The bo- 
 tanist will find Pubia sylvestris , or 
 madder , in hedgerows round Dawlish. 
 
 Leaving Dawlish, the line crosses 
 the mouth of the valley in which 
 the town is built, allowing of a brief 
 but pretty view, and then dives 
 through 5 short tunnels driven in a 
 soft conglomerate of the new red 
 sandstone. In the intervals between 
 these tunnels the cliffs rise above the 
 traveller, to a height of about 200 ft., 
 in such threatening masses that it 
 was prophesied before the opening of 
 the railway that old Neptune would 
 claim his share before the pro- 
 prietors could receive their dividend. 
 In Feb. 1853, this prediction was 
 partially verified. Some 4000 tons 
 then fell with a crash, carrying 
 rails, railway, and wall, into the sea. 
 Providentially no train was passing 
 at the time. A 6th tunnel leads to 
 
 3 m. Teignmouth Stat. f where the 
 line quits the sea, and ascends the 1. 
 bank of the Teign. 
 
 Teignmouth (Inns : Royal Hotel ; 
 Commercial Hotel), with the excep- 
 tion of Torquay , is the largest watering 
 place in the county, and is divided into 
 two parishes, E. and W. Teignmouth, 
 forming one town. (Pop. 6022.) It 
 lies at the mouth of the wooded 
 estuary of the Teign, the vista of 
 which terminates grandly in a moor- 
 land ridge capped by the rocks of 
 Hey tor. The river (its name seems 
 to be connected with Don, Tone, 
 Tanais, river names that, appa- 
 rently contain a Celtic root signifying 
 water), which rises in the northern 
 quarter of Dartmoor, discharges its 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 93 
 
 Route 7 . — Teignmouth. 
 
 waters by a narrow channel ob- 
 structed by a shifting bar, and in 
 the course of ages has accumulated 
 at its mouth a huge bank of sand 
 like the Warren of the Exe. This is 
 called the Den (a name possibly con- 
 nected with the Flemish 44 Dunes ’’), 
 and forms a wide esplanade, which is 
 the distinguishing feature of Teign- 
 mouth. A pleasure Pier has been 
 constructed, projecting from the es- 
 planade. At the end of it is a quaint 
 little lighthouse, erected in 1844-5, 
 for the direction of vessels approach- 
 ing the river; and to this spot the 
 stranger should proceed for a view 
 up the Teign. He will observe in the 
 foreground the bridge , which is said 
 to be the longest in England. It is 
 on 34 arches, having a swing-bridge 
 at one end, and is 1671 ft. in length. 
 It was constructed in 1825-7, at a 
 cost of about 20,OOOZ. On the other 
 side of the river is the village of 
 Shaldon and the promontory of the 
 Ness. Under the shelter of the latter 
 is the marine villa of Lord Clifford of 
 Chudleigh, who has cut a carriage- 
 drive by tunnel to the shore. Look- 
 ing E. from the Den, the Parson and 
 Clerk Rocks are striking objects, and 
 the Parson from this point really 
 bears some resemblance to the figure 
 of a monk in a cringing attitude. 
 Some rare shells may be found on 
 the sands, such as Mactra lutraria 
 and Nerita glaucina or Livid Nerite. 
 The hills above Shaldon command a 
 bird’s-eye view of the town. 
 
 The Danes are said to have landed 
 at this place, and to have committed 
 such havoc that the cliffs have ever 
 since been the colour of blood. In 
 the words of the poet — 
 
 “With blood they all the shore did staine, 
 
 And the gray ocean into purple dy.” 
 
 They no doubt more than once 
 harried this coast; but there may 
 be some confusion with the Nor- 
 thumbrian Tynemouth, where the 
 scene of Ragnar Lodbrok’s death 
 (although that is perhaps mythical) 
 
 is usually placed. In 1347 Teign- 
 mouth, then a fishing village, was 
 burnt by some French marauders, 
 and again in 1690, in the reign of 
 William and Mary, by the French 
 admiral Tourville, after his defeat 
 of the combined English and Dutch 
 squadron, under the Earl of Torring- 
 ton, off Beachy Head. (It was at this 
 time that the Devonshire gentlemen 
 with their 44 following,” gathered 
 on Haldon, in the fashion so gra- 
 phically described by Macaulay.) 
 The Admiral landed in Torbay, and 
 despatched his galleys along the 
 shore. The port belongs to that" of 
 Exeter. It has a considerable trade 
 with Newfoundland, and an export of 
 china-clay from the parish of King’s 
 Teignton, Granite from the Heytor 
 quarries was also formerly shipped 
 from Teignmouth, but these quarries 
 are no longer worked. In the town, 
 tables and other articles are manu- 
 factured from the madrepore marble 
 of the neighbourhood. 
 
 The Teignmouth Churches are un- 
 interesting. In that of E. Teign- 
 mouth, rebuilt 1823, there is' a very 
 good font; and a Norm, doorway 
 from the old ch. forms the S. en- 
 trance. 
 
 The Benedictine nuns who were 
 driven from Dunkirk at the French 
 Revolution, and afterwards long oc- 
 cupied the convent at Hammersmith, 
 are now established at Teignmouth. 
 
 The Public Assembly Room on the 
 Den is a handsome building, date 
 1826. 
 
 From Teignmouth you can visit 
 the Parson and Clerk Rocks , 1^ m. E., 
 by a pleasant stroll along the beach 
 as far as Smuggler's Lane, and can 
 make a longer excursion to Chudleigh 
 Rock, 8 m. (see Rte. 11), or about 6j 
 by true Devonshire lanes, over the 
 shoulder of Little Haldon from King’s 
 Teignton, and by the old mansion of 
 Lyndridge (in the latter route, how- 
 ever, the stranger should be careful 
 not to be benighted in the labyrinth 
 of lanes) ; — to Heytor , Becky Fall , and 
 
94 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 Lustleigh Cleave (Ete. 8, but these 
 places are more easily reached by 
 rail from Newton) ; to Ashburton and 
 Buckland or Holne Chace (Ete. 12), 
 and to Babbacombe (about 6 m. from 
 Shaldon, across the ferry), Anstis 
 Cove , and Torquay, all described in 
 Ete. 9. This last is a charming 
 walk by the cliffs, passing the ro- 
 mantic cove of Maidencombe and the 
 landslip of Watcombe . You can also 
 visit the potteries at Bovey Tracey 
 (Ete. 8) ; and make an excursion 
 by high-road, rail, or water, to New- 
 ton (market-boats ply daily). 
 
 The churches of Bishop’s Teignton, 
 and of Combe-in- Teignhead, about 2 
 m. from Teignmouth, rt. and 1. of 
 the river, retain some early features, 
 although both have been much 
 tampered with. The ch. of Bishop’s 
 Teignton (where are two late Norm, 
 doorways) is entirely mantled in ivy, 
 and its perfect dryness (Devonshire 
 churches suffer greatly from damp) 
 is a proof that the protection of ivy 
 is by no means to be despised. At 
 Bishop’s Teignton, Bp. Grandisson 
 (1327-1369) built a palace, of which 
 the walls of the chapel alone remain. 
 The bishop declares in his will that 
 he had built “ domos utiles et sump- 
 tuosas ’’ here, as a secure asylum for 
 the bishops if their other temporali- 
 ties should at any time be seized by 
 the Crown. The ruins of the palace 
 are at Eadway, about 1 m. from the 
 village of Bishop’s Teignton. 
 
 [A very pleasant walk may be taken 
 from Teignmouth, crossing the ferry 
 to Shaldon, and proceeding thence 
 by Eingmoor to Combe-in-Teign- 
 head. Thence a steep lane leads up- 
 ward to Stoke-in-Teignhead, from 
 which place the high road between 
 Teignmouth and Torquay is soon 
 reached, and we return to the ferry 
 at Shaldon. The round will be 
 about 6 m., through true Devonshire 
 lanes, bright in spring-time with 
 wild flowers. The ch. of Eingmore 
 need not detain the tourist. That 
 of Combe-in-Teignhead has some 
 
 Dec. portions. The situation of the 
 village is charming. The ch. of 
 Stoke is Perp., and the wreathed 
 capitals deserve notice. At Rocombe, 
 in this par., a long trench, which had 
 served as a 4 ‘ kitchen midden,” was 
 excavated in 1865, and yielded 
 shells, pottery, fragments of glass, 
 iron, &c., which indicated that a 
 Brito-Eoman settlement had existed 
 here. (See * Eep. of the Dev. Assoc., 
 1866.’) The views from the high 
 ground above Stoke, both over the 
 sea and toward Dartmoor, are very 
 fine ; and Teignmouth is well seen 
 in descending by the Ness. The 
 “ Teignhead,” from which these vil- 
 lages are named, seems to be a small 
 tributary of the river.] 
 
 About 3 m. N.W. of Teignmouth, 
 in a hollow under Little Haldon, 
 are the ruins of Lithwell Chapel , in 
 which, runs the legend, some time 
 in the 16th centy. dwelt a villanous 
 priest, who waylaid travellers on the 
 neighbouring heath, despoiled them 
 of their money, hoarded his ill-got- 
 ten booty beneath the altar of this 
 chapel, and threw the bodies of his 
 victims into a well. This well may 
 be seen among the ruins, covered 
 with a slab of granite, and, of course, 
 is a sufficient voucher for the truth 
 of the story. 
 
 Bitton House, on the W. cliff, was 
 the seat of the late W. Mackworth 
 Praed, Esq. ; the Hennons, 1 m. N.W., 
 belongs to W. B. King, Esq. 
 
 On leaving the station at Teign- 
 mouth you will observe the red 
 promontory of the Ness at Shaldon, 
 and the long straggling bridge ; and 
 higher up the estuary the village of 
 Coomb' in Teignhead, in a lovely dell. 
 Then King’s Teignton is passed — 
 birthplace, in 1628, of Theophilus 
 Gale, the Nonconformist divine. The 
 ch. is Perp., large and fine. Many 
 chained books remain in it — and the 
 train reaches the confluence of three 
 water-channels, where a fine yiew 
 opens up the course of the river 
 towards Stover Lodge (Duke of So- 
 
Devonshire. Route 7 .—Teignmouth — Newton, 95 
 
 merset), Heytor, and other Dartmoor 
 hills. At King’s Teignton the clay, 
 which forms part of a remarkable 
 deposit occupying the basins of the 
 Bovey and Teign rivers — for a 
 general account of it see Bovey 
 Tracey , Rte. 8 — is largely dug and 
 exported for use in various potteries. 
 It is of excellent quality, and the 
 clay mines here (the best clay is got 
 by sinking shafts and driving) are 
 worth notice. There are four com- 
 panies at work. Cross Teign to 
 
 5 Newton Junct. St at., at Newton 
 Abbot and close to Newton Bushel. 
 The old Roman road crossed the 
 river at Teign bridge, a little higher 
 up the stream. The piers of a Ro- 
 man bridge were laid bare here in 
 1815, and remains of the paved way 
 were found 15 ft. below 4he present 
 surface. A ford, at some distance 
 below, is still called Hackneild (Xken- 
 hilde) ford. ( Chudleigh Bock, Ug- 
 brooke Bark, and the Pottery at Bovey 
 Tracey, are distant from Newton 
 about 6 m.) The ch. is seen on the 
 rt. Here is the junction with the 
 branch line to Torquay (see Rte. 9), 
 and with the line up the valley of 
 the Teign to Moreton Hampstead. 
 (Rte. 8.) 
 
 Newton (Inn : Globe Hotel, good 
 and cheap; pop. 4427) is a town 
 composed of Newton Abbot, once sub- 
 ject to Tor Abbey, and Newton Bushel, 
 commemorative of its lord in 1246. 
 (Newton Abbot is in the parish of 
 Wolborough, Newton Bushel in that 
 of King’s Teignton.) It is beautifully 
 situated in a vale, on the Lemon 
 rivulet, which here joins the Teign. 
 The town has been much extended 
 and embellished of late years. Its 
 market is widely known for its 
 abundant supplies. Here William 
 of Orange made his first declaration 
 after landing in Torbay, at a stone 
 still preserved in W olborough Street, 
 in front of the Chapel. He en- 
 camped his army on Milber Down, 
 establishing his head-quarters at Ford, 
 
 and the next day proceeded on his 
 march to Exeter. 
 
 The Perp. tower of the Chapel 
 of St. Leonard stands in the street 
 of Newton Abbot. The chapel has 
 been pulled down. It was no doubt 
 erected by the Abbot of Tor, the old 
 lord of the borough. A new ch. 
 (St. Paul's) has been built (1859) by 
 the Earl of Devon (T. W. Rowell, 
 architect). It is of good E, Eng. 
 character, and is generally open. 
 A very handsome new market, with 
 Italian elevation, has been built from 
 the designs of Mr. John Chudleigh 
 (cost 6000k). There are two blocks, 
 with a lofty clock-turret. The ch 
 of Newton Bushel is a chapel attached 
 to King’s Teignton. It is Perp., and 
 the E. window of the S. aisle de- 
 serves notice. The inner moulding 
 is charged alternately with the horse- 
 shoe of the Ferrers and the water 
 bouget of the Yardes. 
 
 Some interesting excursions may 
 be made from Newton, and the walks 
 in the neighbourhood are fine. (1.) 
 Ascend the hill which overlooks the 
 station and make the circuit of its 
 summit, Wolborough ch. at the W. 
 end being the central point of the 
 walk. There is a very wide view, 
 commanding Dartmoor, Bradley 
 woods, the hills toward Teignmouth, 
 and part of the channel. (2.) Ascend 
 the hill on which Highwick Ch. is 
 built. From the ch.-yd. there is a 
 noble view of Dartmoor, Haldon, 
 and the estuary of the Teign. The 
 ch. itself (a chapel attached to King’s 
 Teignton) is of little interest. 
 
 The greenstone of Knowle’s Hill, a 
 little N. of Newton Bushel, is 
 flanked by a Trap Ash, which con- 
 tains numerous specimens of the 
 trilobite, marked as a fossil of the 
 Devonian age — Phacops Icevis. This 
 trilobite is well known on the Con- 
 tinent, but is found in no other part 
 of Britain. “ So far as this country 
 is concerned, there is but one locality 
 for the fossil, and one fossil for the 
 locality.” — W. Pengelly . 
 
96 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7. — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 The Church of Wolborough (de- 
 dicated to St. Mary) is wholly Perp., 
 with a plain tower. The S. door is 
 set in a square head, with a deep 
 hollow moulding with flowers. The 
 capitals of the nave piers resemble 
 bands, and are coarsely executed. 
 There is a good deal of wood screen- 
 work, late Perp., and in excellent 
 order, part of which has been re- 
 stored, since traces of the original 
 gildingand colour remain. It severs 
 the chancel and two side chapels 
 or ancient pews, called the Manor 
 House and Rectory seats : these are 
 curious. The font , of E. Eng. date, 
 has a bowl of a fine red gritstone 
 (Roborough stone), boldly and most 
 effectively ornamented. In the win- 
 dows, among fragments of good 
 stained glass, are many shields of 
 arms. The arms of Sir W. Courtenay, 
 Kt., are carved on the gallery. The 
 arms in the windows are older than 
 the connexion of the Courtenays 
 with this place, and probably have 
 been brought from some other ch. 
 In the chancel is an elaborate marble 
 tomb, with effigies and canopy, for 
 Sir R. Reynell, of Ford, and Lucy 
 his wife, date 1633. He built Ford, 
 and he endowed the ch. with a fund 
 for its repairs. 
 
 Ford House , close to the railway 
 stat., is the property of the Earl of 
 Devon, but is not occupied by him. 
 It was erected in the reign of James I. 
 by Sir R. Reynell (a connexion of the 
 Courtenays), who here entertained 
 Charles I., Duke “ Steenie,” and 
 the rest of the court, on their way 
 to and on their return from Ply- 
 mouth, in September, 1625. The 
 King attended Divine service in 
 Wolborough ch. (Numerous pre- 
 sents were sent in by neighbours to 
 assist the “ supplies ” for entertain- 
 ing the court. These were extensive 
 and curious. Among the vegetables 
 are mentioned six artichokes.) Dur- 
 ing the Rebellion, Ford was the scene 
 of some memorable actions. It was 
 thrice taken by either party before 
 
 Fairfax and Waller finally captured 
 it. Here, too, the P. of Orange 
 slept on his road from Torbay to 
 Exeter, in a room still pointed out. 
 The house has been repaired in good 
 taste. About a mile above the town, 
 at a bend of the valley, is the very 
 curious Manor-house of Bradley (Miss 
 Wall, to whom application for seeing 
 it should be made), with a chapel; 
 it is now used partly as a farmhouse, 
 but is very perfect, and stands in a 
 level mead of peculiar beauty. It is 
 a 15th-centy. mansion, and was the 
 seat of the Yardes from the reign of 
 Richard II. to about 1750. It ori- 
 ginally formed a quadrangle ; but 3 
 of the sides have been taken down. 
 The chapel (now made a drawing- 
 room) and hall remain, and the 
 principal front, with 3 oriel windows 
 projecting from the upper floor. 
 The mead in which the house stands 
 is the entrance to the lovely scenery 
 of Bradley Vale and Woods, a spot 
 dear to artists and pleasure-seekers. 
 It should be visited. 
 
 There is a fine view from the 
 Ogwell Bocks , S.W. of Newton. West 
 Ogwell House is now the residence of 
 Daniel Scratton, Esq, 
 
 Haccombe and the camp of Milber 
 Down may perhaps be best visited 
 from Newton. They are described 
 in Rte. 9. 
 
 A longer excursion may be made 
 from Newton to the churches of 
 Abbot's Kerswell (lj m.) and Ipplepen 
 (3 m.), returning by a longer route 
 through Tor Bryan and Denbury, 
 The ch. of Abbot's Kerswell (= cross 
 well) is for the most part Perp. It 
 belonged to the great Abbey of 
 Tor. 
 
 Ipplepen (which seems to have 
 retained a British name) stands 
 high, and commands very fine views 
 W. and S. The Church is Perp., with 
 some good details ; the E. window 
 flamboyant, of 5 lights. The tower 
 dates from about 1440. Among the 
 plate is an ancient gilt chalice of 
 elegant form. There was here a 
 
 
Devonshire, 
 
 Route 7.~Totne$. 97 
 
 cell attached to the Benedictine 
 Abbey of Fougeres, and established 
 by Ralph of Foug&res, whose ancestor 
 received the manor from the Con- 
 queror. The ch. was granted to the 
 same abbey, but when the alien 
 cells were seized, it was given to 
 the College of St. Mary Ottery. A 
 small valley, called Stoney Coombes 
 here, is picturesque. The red and 
 purple marbles , of which there are 
 large quarries in this parish, are 
 celebrated, and are now used ex- 
 tensively in the decoration of 
 churches and other buildings. Tor 
 Bryan ch. is also Perp. but early in 
 the style. There is a very good 
 screen with painted figures of saints, 
 a gilt and painted pulpit, and a S. 
 porch with stone groined roof. The 
 manor was in the hands of the Bryans 
 from Henry II. to Richard II. It 
 afterwards belonged to the Petres ; 
 and here was born Sir William Petre 
 (or Peter) who, “ made of the willow 
 and not of the oak,” was successively 
 in the confidence of Henry VII 1., 
 Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, 
 and managed to “ convey ” to him- 
 self a goodly share of the monastic 
 spoils. There is some striking sce- 
 nery here, with masses of broken 
 rock rising into tors, hence the 
 name. The ch. of Denbury , chiefly 
 Dec., has been restored. With the 
 manor it belonged, from before the 
 Conquest until the dissolution, to 
 Tavistock Abbey. Above the village 
 S.E. rises the height of JDenbury 
 Down, conspicuous throughout the 
 district. It is crowned by a large 
 entrenchment, in form an irregular 
 oval, 250 yards long by 200 broad. 
 Toward the middle are the remains 
 of two nearly circular mounds. 
 There is a single agger and a fosse 
 1 9 ft. deep, beyond which is another 
 of greater strength close to the inner 
 vallum E. and N. but stretching 
 away widely W. Denbury is the 
 Deveneburie of Domesday, and it 
 has been regarded as the “ Statio 
 Deventia” of the Geographer of 
 [Dev. Corn.~\ 
 
 Ravenna. There is a very wide 
 view from the camp. 
 
 After passing Newton, the Ply- 
 mouth line no longer follows a well- 
 defined valley, but threads its way 
 through a series of combes, many of 
 which are in the limestone, and much 
 resemble in their features some of 
 the upper Dovedale scenery. The 
 steepness of the gradient at several 
 points is proclaimed by the uneasy 
 and measured puffing of the engine, 
 but this immediately ceases, and the 
 train proceeds with sudden velocity, 
 after passing the short Daignton tunnel 
 at the summit, and reaching a valley 
 tributary to the Dart. The line 
 passes close (rt.) to the interesting 
 Perp. ch. of Little Hemstone (see 
 post, exc. from Totnes) and 1. with- 
 in a mile of the romantic ruins of 
 Berry Pomeroy Castle (Duke of 
 Somerset ; see the present route, 
 post), and then crossing the Dart, 
 in view of Partington House (see 
 post), reaches. 
 
 8| Totnes Stat . (It should here 
 be said that excursion tickets are 
 issued at the Totnes rly. station, for 
 a trip by steamboat down the Dart 
 to Dartmouth, and thence by rly. 
 to Torquay, returning by Newton 
 Abbot on the rly. to Totnes. Or 
 the ticket allows the holder to take 
 the rly. first and sail up the Dart to 
 Totnes. This should be decided by 
 the times of sailing of the steam- 
 boat, which are regulated by the 
 tide.) This is also the station for 
 the Buckfastleigh and Ashburton 
 railway (Rte. 12). Part of Totnes 
 lies low. Its principal features are 
 its church, and the ivy-covered keep 
 of its Castle on the escarpment of 
 the hill rising (1.) above the rly. 
 
 The old town of Totnes ( Inns : 
 Seven Stars ; Seymour Hotel, the 
 latter pleasantly situated on the 
 river bank ; pop. 3409) from the 
 margin of the river Dart climbs 
 the steep acclivity of a hill, and 
 stretches itself along its brow, com- 
 manding a view of the winding 
 F 
 
98 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 stream, and of the country in its vici- 
 nity, but sheltered at the same time 
 by higher hills on every side. The 
 place is of great antiquity ; and the 
 name ( in Domesday, Totneis ) is 
 doubtless derived from the Anglo- 
 Saxon tot , toten , to project — as in 
 Tothill, Tottenham — and ness or 
 nes , a ‘nose’ or headland. [The 
 original “ Totnes ” may have been 
 either Berry Head or Prawle Point 
 — the most southernly point of land 
 in Devonshire. The whole coast 
 was named from it ; and the landing 
 of Brutus of Troy is fixed by Laya- 
 mon (writing about 1205) at 66 Derte- 
 muthe in Totenes.” The name be- 
 came at last confined to the chief 
 town of the district.] Local tradition, 
 however, has long placed the scene 
 of the landing at the town of Totnes ; 
 and the stone on which Brutus first 
 set foot (a projecting mass of native 
 rock, now smoothed) is still pointed 
 out in the Fore St., nearly opposite 
 the Mayoralty. Proclamations were 
 formerly read by the mayor, standing 
 on this rock. The words of Brutus 
 are said to have been — 
 
 “ Here I sit, and here I rest, 
 
 And this town shall be called Totnes.” 
 
 (The fact that the rock is high on 
 the side of the hill is a trifle in 
 such a legend.) The tradition which 
 thus gave the Britons, like their 
 Roman masters, a Trojan origin, was 
 no doubt of Roman invention, but 
 seems to have been readily appro- 
 priated, probably during the period 
 when the British kingdom of Dam- 
 nonia was powerful and flourishing, 
 before the English conquest had ex- 
 tended so far westward. It was 
 universally believed during the 
 middle ages, and received of course 
 a fresh v itality after the publication 
 of the ‘ lying book ’ of Geoffrey of 
 Monmouth, where Totnes is for the 
 first time named as the scene of 
 the landing. The landing itself 
 is mentioned by Nennius — a 
 proof of the much greater an- 
 
 tiquity of the legend. Totnes — 
 
 no doubt the “Ad Durium ” of the 
 Itineraries — is situated upon a Ro- 
 man road which ran from Exeter to 
 the Tamar, by Ugbrooke, Newton 
 Bushel, Totnes, and Boringdon Park. 
 It is one of the oldest boroughs 
 in the country (the first charter 
 dates 1205) and there are fragments 
 remaining of the walls with which 
 it was formerly surrounded. Other 
 proofs of its antiquity are the ruins 
 of the castle, the venerable ch., and 
 some houses in High Street with 
 piazzas, and projecting gables. In 
 the 12th and 13th centys. Totnes 
 was one of the chief clothing towns 
 of England; and “hose of fine 
 Totnes ” appear in sundry romances, 
 and now and then in the Welsh 
 4 Mabinogion/ when the dress of an 
 important personage is described as 
 especially" splendid. The country in 
 the neighbourhood is very pictur- 
 esque, and is remarkable for its 
 fertility, for which reason it will 
 be interesting to many travellers. 
 Dartington parish has a fine growth 
 of timber, and also a store of wealth 
 below the surface of the ground, 
 yielding chocolate and madrepore 
 marbles, of which beautiful speci- 
 mens appeared in the Great Exhi- 
 bition of 1851. Totnes is connec- 
 ted with its suburb of Bridgetown 
 Pomeroy by a bridge built in 
 1828, at a cost of 12,000^. Steps 
 descend from it to a small island, 
 planted by the Duke of Somerset 
 for public use. 
 
 Among the natives of this place 
 were Benjamin Kenvicott, 1718, the 
 Hebrew scholar, and collator of 
 the Hebrew Bible (his father was 
 the parish clerk, and the inscription 
 on his tomb in Totnes ch.-yard was 
 written by Dr. Kennicott, then 
 canon of Ch. Ch., Oxford) ; Edward 
 Lye , author of the Saxon dictionary, 
 born here, the son of a schoolmaster, in 
 1704; Charles Babbage , of the “Cal- 
 culating Machine ; ” and the artist 
 William Brockedon, distinguished for 
 
99 
 
 Devonshire. Route 1.— Totnes : 
 
 his literary attainments and fertile 
 invention, and so widely known as 
 an Alpine traveller. Specimens of 
 his skill as a painter may be seen at 
 Exeter and Dartmouth. Sir George 
 Carew, famous in the Irish wars of Q. 
 Elizabeth’s reign, was created EarL 
 of Totnes— & title which died with 
 him. 
 
 The Castle stands on the sum- 
 mit of the hill, and is said to 
 have been founded by a certain Jud- 
 hael, on whom the manor was be- 
 stowed at the Conquest. The name 
 of this adventurer indicates his 
 Breton origin. He received an enor- 
 mous estate in Devonshire, and much 
 land in Cornwall; and Totnes, be- 
 sides giving him a personal title 
 (Judhael of Totnes), became the 
 head of a great honour or barony. 
 The castle, like that of Exeter, 
 occupies the summit of a steep hill, 
 rising from the river, on which the 
 town is built. Like Exeter, also, it 
 had no regular keep tower ; but the 
 “ motte ” or mound is surrounded 
 by a circular wall (see Exeter, Rte. 1, 
 for some remarks on this arrange- 
 ment). The mound may well be 
 much earlier than the castle, and 
 was perhaps the site of a stronghold 
 in the British period. The existing 
 wall, a mere ruin of crumbling red 
 stones profusely mantled with ivy, 
 is probably not earlier than Henry 
 I.’s time. The position of the Castle, 
 on the first bridge over the Dart, and 
 on the line of ancient road, rendered 
 it of some importance. The mound 
 commands a very interesting view 
 of the windings of the river and of 
 the rich surrounding country. The 
 grounds around it are planted, and 
 have been opened to the public by 
 the Duke of Somerset. The honour 
 or barony of Totnes passed from Jud- 
 hael to the Novants, Cantilupes, and 
 Zouches ; which last great house long 
 retained it. After sundry changes it 
 came to the Seymours. Leland, when 
 he visited the castle early in the 16th 
 centy. found a “ strong dungeon ” 
 
 the Castle; the Church. 
 
 and the castle wall maintained. “ The 
 logginges of the castle,” he adds 
 “ be clene in ruin.” 
 
 The Church (ded. to St. Mary), a 
 fine and stately building, was origi- 
 nally a Norman structure of the 1 1th 
 centy. It was rebuilt in the 13 th ; 
 and, as it now stands, it belongs to 
 the 15th centy. (An indulgence to 
 all contributors to the work was 
 granted by Bp. Lacy in 1432.) It 
 has suffered greatly within and 
 without, from both time and un- 
 sightly arrangements ; and although 
 plans for its complete restoration 
 have been furnished by Mr. G. G. 
 Scott, it has as yet been possible to 
 carry out part of them only. The 
 main arcade is lofty and well-propor- 
 tioned ; but the glory of the church 
 is the stone canopied screens separat- 
 ing the nave from the chancel and 
 chancel aisles. These are beautiful 
 in design and execution, and (in stone 
 work) are most rare in Devonshire. 
 The nave has to a great extent been 
 restored ; galleries at the W, end and 
 over the rood-screen, have been 
 removed; the tower arch, of fine 
 proportions, has been opened; the 
 arches and pillars repaired ; and the 
 carved stone pulpit also has been 
 restored. The chancel, with its 
 wonderful Corinthian altar-piece, is 
 as yet untouched. There is a good 
 S. porch, and a very fine internal 
 rood-turret on the N. side of the 
 chancel. The tower is fine and 
 massive. There are figures in the 
 niches, and a curious bust of Bishop 
 Lacy. The buttresses on the S. side 
 of the church should be noticed. All 
 the external stone-work calls for 
 restoration. There are some monu- 
 ments in the ch., but of little inter- 
 est. The church was given by Jud- 
 hael of Totnes to the Benedictine 
 monastery at Angers; and he also 
 founded here a priory, in connection 
 with that abbey. It stood on the 
 N.E. side of the church. 
 
 In a room over the S. porch is 
 the Parochial Library , — a good 
 
100 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 collection of weighty volumes on 
 divinity. Among them are the works 
 of SS. Augustine, Ambrose, and 
 Gregory, and of “ the High and 
 Mighty K. James ;” the Homilies 
 of St. Chrysostom, Birkhead’s Pro- 
 testant Evidence, and Walton’s Poly- 
 glott. 
 
 On the “Plains,” an open space in 
 front of the Seven Stars Hotel, is a 
 granite obelisk, erected by public 
 subscription, not very remarkable for 
 the elegance of its design, with an 
 inscription “in honour of William 
 John Wills, native of Totnes; the 
 first, with Burke, to cross the Aus- 
 tralian continent. He perished in 
 returning, 28th June, 1861.” 
 
 The stranger should be directed to 
 the Public Walk below the bridge, 
 whence the steamers set out for 
 Dartmouth, and to a path along the 
 banks of the mill-leat from the 
 Seven Stars. The finest view of 
 Totnes is to be obtained from the 
 second lodge on the carriage drive to 
 Sharpham. 
 
 Totms, which returned 2 members 
 to Parliament as early as the reign 
 of Ed. I., was entirely disfranchised 
 in 1867, — a result of the “bribery 
 and corruption ” which had deve- 
 loped to a frightful extent, and was 
 disclosed by a commission of inquiry. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Totnes 
 are Sharpham (R. Durant, Esq., see 
 post ); Follaton (Stanley Carey, Esq.); 
 Partington (Arthur Champernowne, 
 Esq., see post ) ; Tristford (Mrs. Pen- 
 darves) ; and Broomborough (Mrs. 
 Phillips). At Bowden (2 m. S.W.) 
 are the remains of a chapel, conse- 
 crated in 1417. Bowden was the 
 ancient seat of a family which took 
 its name from the place ; and after- 
 wards of Sir Edward Giles. 
 
 The principal Excursions to be made 
 from Totnes are to Berry Pomeroy , 
 and to Dartmouth by the river. Others 
 may be — to Partington , to Buckfast- 
 leighy and to some churches and other 
 remains in the neighbourhood. 
 
 [A line of rly. opened in 1872, con- 
 nects Totnes with Buckfastleigh and 
 Ashburton. By this line the Holne 
 Chace and Buckland scenery (Rte.12) 
 is easily accessible from Totnes.] 
 
 (a.) The ruins of Berry Pomeroy 
 Castle are situated about 2 m. E. from 
 Totnes, in a thick wood; and to reach 
 them the traveller will pursue the 
 Torquay road as far as the turnpike, 
 and then turn to the 1. towards the 
 village of Berry Pomeroy. Here 
 he will notice the fine ch. built by 
 one of the Pomeroys, in which lie 
 the remains of John Prince , author 
 of the 4 Worthies of Devon,’ who was 
 vicar here for 42 years. It con- 
 tains a good screen and pulpit, re- 
 stored by the late vicar (Rev. W. 
 Cosens) ; two monuments, with 
 effigies of Pomeroys (one dating 
 1475); and an elaborate monument 
 for Lord Edward Seymour (son of 
 the “ Protector” Duke of Somerset), 
 1593; his son, Sir Edw. Seymour, 
 1613, with wife and children. The 
 S. porch and the W. tower should 
 be noticed. The ch. is mainly 
 Perp. (circ. 1400? — the arms of 
 Bp. Stafford, 1395-1419, occur in 
 stained glass), but contains E. Eng. 
 and Dec. portions. Beyond the vil- 
 lage there are signs of the ruin 
 in the neighbourhood. An ivy- 
 mantled wall stretches in fragments 
 across the fields, and an aged tree 
 here and there remains as a memo- 
 rial of the ancient deer-park. In 
 J m. the visitor reaches the entrance 
 of a wood, where the key of the 
 castle must be obtained at the lodge. 
 He is immediately received by noisy 
 acclamations from an ancient rookery, 
 and, having descended a winding road, 
 comes suddenly upon the remains of 
 the once stately mansion of the Sey- 
 mours. This interesting ruin derives 
 a peculiar charm from its retirement, 
 and from the lofty trees which en- 
 ' compass and have penetrated its de- 
 I serted halls and courts. But an 
 I imperfect idea is obtained of its size 
 
Devonshire, Route 7 . — Berry Pomeroy Castle. 101 
 
 and romantic position on the ap- 
 proach, as the whole is so imbedded 
 in ivy, and screened by wood, that 
 little more of it can be seen than the 
 great gateway. The stranger should 
 gain an opposite eminence by follow- 
 ing the path to the rt. of the gate- 
 way, and ascending the hill above thlr 
 quarry which he will observe on the 
 opposite side of the valley. From that 
 point he will command a small soli- 
 tary glen, watered by a little rivulet, 
 and thickly wooded, and will obtain 
 an excellent view of the ruin rising 
 among the trees. The interior of the 
 castle displays the usual grass-grown 
 courts, mossy walls, old chimneys, 
 broken arches, and crumbling steps 
 descending into so-called dungeons 
 and underground passages. Trees 
 are rooted in every nook and cranny, 
 and ivy hangs the whole with verdur- 
 ous festoons. The oldest part of the 
 ruin is the great gateway sculptured 
 with the arms of Pomeroy (a lion 
 rampant, gules, within a border in- 
 vected, sable, — but these are now 
 concealed behind the ivy), and a 
 circular tower called St. Margaret’s, 
 connected with this gateway by a 
 curtain wall. This portion of the 
 building dates from the early part 
 of the 13th centy., and was perhaps 
 the work of Henry de Pomeroy, one 
 of the most powerful barons of the 
 "West during the reigns of John and 
 Hen. III. The body of the building 
 is the ruin of a sumptuous mansion, 
 begun by the Protector Somerset. 
 The original castle is said to have 
 been erected by Ralph de la Pomeroy, 
 to whom the manor, with 58 others 
 in Devonshire, and many in Corn- 
 wall, was given by the Conqueror. 
 The Castle here became the Head of 
 the Honour. The Pomeroys were 
 wealthy and powerful. A fragment 
 of their Norman stronghold still re- 
 mains in the (^inglais, not f ar f rom 
 Falaise. (It is there called “ Chateau 
 Ganne”— Ganelon’s Castle— a name 
 given in Normandy to more than one 
 such ruin, and commemorating the | 
 
 famous traitor of romance, who be- 
 trayed the Christian host 
 
 “ When Charlemagne with all his peerage fell 
 By Fontarabia.” 
 
 It is really the Chateau de la Pome- 
 raie ; and here no doubt was the 
 original “ pomeraie,” or orchard, 
 which gave name to the stronghold 
 and to the family.) Joel ( Judhael ?) 
 de Pomeroy married a natural daugh- 
 ter of Hen. I., sister of Reginald, E. 
 of Cornwall. Ethelward de Pomeroy 
 (whose name seems to indicate that 
 the Pomeroys had connected them- 
 selves with some old English house), 
 was the founder, temp. Hen. II., of 
 Buckfast Abbey (Rte. 12). Henry 
 de Pomeroy fortified his castles of 
 Berry Pomeroy and of St. Michael’s 
 Mount in behalf of Prince John ; 
 and on Richard’s return fled to 
 the latter, where, says the tradi- 
 tion, he “ caused himself to be let 
 blood to death.” (A local legend 
 asserts that he remained at Berry 
 Pomeroy, and that when the king’s 
 pursuivants arrived there, to arrest 
 him, he mounted on horseback and 
 leaped over the precipice toward the 
 valley, killing himself by the fall.) 
 His son was active on the side of 
 Simon de Montfort, and the ‘ Mira- 
 cula Simonis’ (App. to Rishanger’s 
 Chronicle, Camden Soc. ed.) record 
 an appearance of the great Earl, 
 after his death, to this Henry de 
 Pomeroy. The Pomeroys resided 
 in their castle here until the reign 
 of Edward VI., when Sir Thomas 
 Pomeroy engaged deeply in the 
 Devonshire rebellion of 1549. This 
 Sir Thomas is described as a“ symple 
 gente,” and his life was spared : 
 perhaps on account of his weak in- 
 tellect. His estate, however, suf- 
 fered most severely ; and, though 
 he seems to have retained Berry 
 Pomeroy for a time, it soon passed 
 into the hands of Lord Seymour of 
 Sudeley, brother of the Protector 
 Duke of Somerset. “ This family of 
 Seymour,” says Prince, in his ‘ Wor- 
 
102 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to. Plymouth. Sect. I. 
 
 tliies of Devon,’ “ built at the N. and 
 E. end of the quadrangle a magnifi- 
 cent structure, at the charges, as fame 
 relates, of upwards of 20,000J., but 
 never brought it to perfection, as the 
 W. side of the quadrangle was never 
 begun. The apartments,” he con- 
 tinues, “were very splendid, espe- 
 cially the dining-room, which was 
 adorned, besides paint, with statues 
 and figures cut in alabaster with 
 elaborate art and labour ; but the 
 chimneypiece, of polished marble 
 curiously engraven, was of great cost 
 and value. The number of apart- 
 ments of the whole may be collected 
 hence, if report be true, that it was a 
 good day’s work for a servant but to 
 open and shut the casements belong- 
 ing to them. Notwithstanding which, 
 ’tis now demolished, and all this glory 
 lieth in the dust.” According to a 
 tradition, Berry Pomeroy was de- 
 stroyed by lightning. In the reign 
 of James II. Sir Edward Seymour, 
 the famous leader of the country 
 party, lived here in great splendour, 
 and the ruins still belong, with the 
 manor, to his descendants, and are 
 in the possession of the present Duke 
 of Somerset. Since the Conquest, 
 therefore, the manor of Berry Pome- 
 roy has been in the hands of but two 
 families — the Pomeroys and the Sey- 
 mours. Polypodium semilacerum has 
 been found in the woods. 
 
 (6) Partington , seat of the Cham- 
 pernownes, li m. N. of Totnes, and 
 rt. of the Ashburton road, was given 
 by the Conqueror to the Norman 
 William de Falaise. No castle was 
 ever erected here; but Dartington 
 became the Head of a Barony or 
 Honour. From that period it has 
 successively belonged to the families 
 of Martyn, Audley, Vere, Holland, 
 and, for a short time, Courtenay. 
 Dartington House is very interest- 
 ing as comprising a part of the 
 mansion of the Dukes of Exeter, 
 and in particular the great hall 
 and kitchen, the latter ruinous, the 
 
 former, though unroofed, a most 
 interesting relic, apparently of the 
 time of Rich. II., whose device, 
 the white hart chained, appears 
 on parts of the ruins. (John Hol- 
 land, D. of Exeter, was the half- 
 brother of Rich. II.) The hall is 
 70 ft. in length by 40 in breadth, 
 and has a huge old fireplace 16 ft. 
 broad, and a porch with groined ceil- 
 ing bearing the escutcheon of Hol- 
 land. This is the latest portion of 
 the ancient house. The earliest part 
 of the building remaining is the old 
 hall, on the E. side of the quadrangle 
 at the N.E. corner. This, with the 
 gateway at its S. end, is of very plain 
 work, early in the 14th centy., and 
 has a good wooden roof. The N. 
 and S. sides of the quadrangle are 
 of the middle of the 14th centy. 
 The former has three singular 
 porches, looking like large but- 
 tresses; the two eastern ones have 
 each a double inner doorway; all 
 have rooms over them. There is 
 one external staircase. — /. H . P. 
 At the end of the pile are some of 
 the original windows, and on the 
 W. side, which was rebuilt in the 
 reign of Elizabeth, a terraced gar- 
 den. Dartington Ch . stands close 
 to the house, and contains some 
 richly coloured glass, the remains of 
 a screen, a fine pulpit of Henry VII.’s 
 time, and, near the altar, a curious 
 monument (dated 1578) in memory 
 of Sir Arthur Champernowne, the 
 first of this family who possessed 
 Dartington. (See Modbury , Rte. 15, 
 for some further notice of the Cham- 
 pernownes.) There is also a small 
 effigy in armour. The ch. is Perp., 
 has been reseated, and is in excellent 
 order. The tower is Dec., with 
 battlements of the 15tli centy. The 
 surrounding scenery is varied and 
 pleasing. The river sweeps through 
 a wooded vale, and the old town of 
 Totnes terminates the view. In the 
 parsonage at Dartington were born 
 (sons of the Yen. Archdeacon of Tot- 
 I nes) Robert Hurrell Froude, whose 
 
Devonshire. Route 7. — Hemstone Arundell — Stanborough. 103 
 
 4 4 remains” were edited by Dr. New- 
 man, and James Anthony Froude, 
 the historian. 
 
 (c) The stranger may ramble either 
 from Totnes or Ashburton to Buck- 
 fastleigh, Holne Chace , and Buckland , 
 described in Rte. 12. On the roa<L 
 from Totnes up the valley of the 
 Dart he should notice the view from 
 Staverton Bridge , just beyond Dart- 
 ington (on the hill, 1 . is Bigedon , J. 
 Fleming, Esq.), and the pretty pic- 
 ture formed by Austin’s Bridge in con- 
 nection with the ch. of Buckfastleigh. 
 He should also turn off from the road 
 at Cadover Lane , before reaching Aus- 
 tin’s Bridge. The summit of Ca- 
 dover Hill is near the spot chosen 
 by Turner for his view of Buckfast 
 Abbey, once in the possession of Mr. 
 Windus of Tottenham. The valley 
 of the Dart, scattered over with fine 
 trees, lies before the spectator : — 
 
 “ Meadows trim with daisies pied. 
 Shallow brooks and rivers wide.” 
 
 Nor is any other feature of the great 
 poet’s description wanting. Steep 
 hills close in the valley on either side, 
 and on their slopes lie orchard, and 
 farm, and tower, “bosomed high in 
 tufted trees.” Towards the centre of 
 the picture rises Buckfast Abbey, 
 round which the river winds ; and, 
 beyond that, the woods of Holne 
 Chace and Buckland, all closed in 
 by the long range of the Dartmoor 
 hills, lifting their granite crests 
 against the sky. Buckfastleigh and 
 its neighbourhood (see Rte. 12) are 
 well known for quarries of black 
 marble . 
 
 ( d ) Other pilgrimages may be 
 
 1. To the old gateway and re- 
 remains of the chapel of Cornworthy 
 Priory (about 4 m. S. of Totnes, on 
 the farm of Court Prior), an Augus- 
 tinian nunnery founded in the 14th 
 centy. by the Zouches, lords of 
 Totnes. 
 
 2. To Little Hemstone or Hem- 
 
 stone Arundell (2 m. N.E. of Totnes ; 
 it is so called from its position on the 
 44 riveret ” of the Hems), where there 
 is an interesting Perp. ch., with a 
 good screen, and some fine old glass 
 in the N. chancel window. In the 
 3 window recesses of the S. aisle are 
 3 effigies — a Crusader (cross-legged), 
 much defaced, perhaps Sir John 
 Arundell (the Arundells were lords 
 of this manor from Hen. I/s time) ; 
 a knight in plate armour ; and a lady. 
 The ch. was restored in 1866. The old 
 parsonage is a curious small house of 
 the 15th centy., built round a square 
 court. The hall, which remains per- 
 fect, is on the S. side, with buttresses 
 at the W. end. From the corner of 
 the hall a circular staircase ascends 
 to the solar on the S. side of the 
 court. It is exactly the priest’s 
 house of Chaucer’s time. 
 
 3. To Dean Prior and the Vale of 
 Dean Burn (see Rte. 12), by a road 
 on 1. beyond Dartington, climbing 
 by steep lanes to the village of Bat- 
 tery , where a glorious prospect toward 
 Dartmoor bursts upon the view. 
 
 (e) Rt. of the road from Totnes to 
 Kingsbridge , is 
 
 3 m. Harberton Church , one of the 
 most interesting in the county, a fine 
 Perp. ch., containing a stone pulpit 
 (a very valuable example), gilt and 
 coloured, its niches filled with figures. 
 There is also a fine rood-screen, 
 painted and gilt (restored 1871). 
 The S. porch is good. Near it at 
 Harbertonford is an edge-tool manu- 
 factory . The next point of interest 
 on this road is 
 
 6^ m. Stanborough Castle ; an 
 
 irregular oval entrenchment, having 
 a single vallum from 18 to 30 ft. 
 high, with a fosse and an additional 
 rampart on the S. Within the camp 
 was a very large barrow or cairn o A 
 stones, which was opened in 1799 
 and a perfect kistvaen found within 
 it. There are other barrows without 
 the vallum, but the stones from all 
 , have been removed for road-making 
 
104 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 Bones, charcoal, ashes, and a rude 
 urn have been found in them. 100 
 yds. S. of the castle there are traces 
 of an elliptical earthwork, at the end 
 of which was a high upright stone 
 (now gone) called the “ Old Man.” 
 The adjoining Hundred is called 
 “ Stanborough ” — but /this castle is 
 in the Hundred of Coleridge. 
 
 (About 2 m. E. is the village of 
 Blackauton , where the ch., partly 
 E. Eng. has a fine buttressed tower. 
 There is a rood-screen and parclose.) 
 
 For other places of interest on this 
 road, see Kingsbridge, Rte. 15. 
 
 (f) The most pleasant excursion 
 from Totnes is a trip down the river to 
 Dartmouth. Steamers leave Totnes 
 every day during the summer when 
 the tide permits (N.B. the river 
 is unsightly at low water), and make 
 the voyage to Dartmouth, 12 m., in 
 lj hr. The return fare is 2s. (see 
 ante , for the tickets issued at the 
 Totnes rly.-stat.). The river pursues 
 a course among shelving hills and 
 woods; but the great charm of the 
 scenery lies in the vagaries of the 
 stream, which is much deflected, 
 and twists and doubles as if deter- 
 mined to push a passage where 
 nature had denied one. Hence, the 
 river has the appearance of a string 
 of lakes, an illusory effect well 
 seen from a hill at Sharpham, 
 whence no less than 10 distinct 
 sheets of water are in view, each 
 apparently isolated and land-locked. 
 The voyager, having started from 
 Totnes, glides swiftly with the stream, 
 soon sweeping to the 1. in full view 
 of (rt.) Sharpham (R. Durant, Esq.), 
 where the hills lie intermingled, as if 
 to oppose a farther progress, and the 
 river begins its beautiful convolutions. 
 The traveller has barely time for an 
 admiring glance backward at the ch. 
 tower of Totnes, before a sudden 
 turn to the rt. displays one of the 
 most striking reaches of the river, 
 apparently closed at the further end 
 by the dense foliage of Sharpham 
 
 wood. The hills, however, soon open 
 on the 1., and the boat enters another 
 glistening sheet of water, bounded 
 on the rt. by a crescent of trees 
 so grand in its proportions as to claim 
 an interesting place in the traveller’s 
 reminiscences. It is farther remark- 
 able as containing one of the largest 
 rookeries in the county , and as haunted 
 by an echo, which the stranger must 
 not fail to salute. Here is also a 
 heronry, one of the few remaining 
 in England. From this reach the 
 voyager again turns to the rt., and 
 then to the 1., opening a long vista of 
 the river, which expands at the end 
 to a spacious basin, presenting at high 
 water the appearance of a bay. In 
 this reach will be observed on the 1. 
 the village of Stoke Gabriel , the woods 
 of Maisonette (H. Carew Hunt, Esq.), 
 (1.) Sandridge (late Lord Cranstoun), 
 [here was born, in the reign of Eliz., 
 John Davis, the navigator — the 
 discoverer (1585) of Davis’ Straits; 
 he was killed on the coast of Ma- 
 lacca, 1605], and Waddeton Court 
 (H. Studdy, Esq.). At the edge of 
 the rt. bank, nearly opposite Sand- 
 ridge, the liveliest echo on the river 
 will be found among some trees. 
 In the next reach, which bends to the 
 rt., the stream contracts, and lofty 
 ridges bound it on each side ; the vil- 
 lage of Dittisham (rt.), famous for dam- 
 son plums (in the ch. is a good stone 
 pulpit and wooden screen, also some 
 modern stained glass), and the woods 
 of Greenway (1., Mrs. Harvey), once 
 a house of Sir Walter Raleigh, adorn- 
 ing the shores. At the narrowest 
 part, in the middle of the stream, a 
 rock called the Anchor Stone is visible 
 at low water, and rises abruptly from 
 a depth of more than 10 fathoms. 
 It was on this rock, according to a 
 local legend, that Raleigh was in 
 the habit of smoking his pipe. The 
 voyager, having passed the Anchor 
 Stone, feels the breeze of the sea, and, 
 skirting the slopes of Mount Boone 
 (rt., Sir H. P. Seale, Bart.), and pass- 
 ing II . M. training ships for naval 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 7 . — South Brent . 
 
 105 
 
 cadets, Britannia and Hindostan , in a 
 few minutes reaches the haven for 
 which he is bound — 
 
 Dartmouth (see Bte. 10). 
 
 After leaving Totnes the traveller 
 will remark that the thatch of the 
 neighbouring cottages is coated 
 thickly with white- wash to protect 
 it from the fiery showers of the 
 passing engine. A short tunnel 
 brings the train to 
 
 7 m. South Brent Stat. To the rt. 
 are the tors of Dartmoor. 
 
 South Brent is a small town on 
 the Avon, and below that striking 
 eminence South Brent Tor (or Bea- 
 con). Good lodgings are to be found 
 here ; and the moor in the neigh- 
 bourhood is interesting. Here you 
 should notice the wild river-bed at 
 the bridge, and the old ch., which 
 has a tower of very early Norm, 
 character, and some good Flam- 
 boyant windows; there were also 
 the remains of a good screen; but 
 these were ruthlessly swept away 
 during the restoration which the 
 church underwent in 1871. The 
 tower (now at the W. end) was 
 apparently the central tower of a 
 Norm, ch., the rest of which may 
 have been removed when the present 
 ch. was built. This contains early 
 portions, but is chiefly Perp. Brent, 
 both manor and church, belonged to 
 the Abbey of Buckfast from a period 
 before the Conquest ; and the manor, 
 after the dissolution, was one of 
 those which fell to the lot of Sir 
 William Petre. 
 
 Brent Hill, lofty and pyramidal, 
 is conspicuous in all this part of the 
 country. It is not granite, but con- 
 sists of hornblendic trap. On the 
 crest are the ruins— (from below 
 they look like a rock) — of a chapel 
 of the 13th centy., raised no doubt 
 by the Buckfast Cistercians. The 
 view from Brent hill is fine and 
 wide — extending eastward as far as 
 Haldon. 
 
 The valley of the Avon, above 
 
 Brent, is well worth the attention of 
 the artist ; and a very fine moorland 
 walk or ride may be taken from this 
 place — passing up the river to Shipley 
 Bridge, and still ascending as far as 
 its junction with the little stream of 
 the Wallabrook. To the 1. rises a 
 Jofty hill called Western Whitta - 
 borough or Peter's Gross ; — from a 
 cross, a boundary stone marking the 
 limits of Brent (Sir W. Petre’s) 
 Manor, which formerly stood on its 
 summit. Here the river should be 
 crossed, and the Wallabrook may be 
 followed nearly to its source. Turn- 
 ing rt. Wallaford Down may then be 
 gained, whence the descent may be 
 made on Buckfastleigh. The moor 
 scenes throughout this route are 
 wild and solitary; and from the 
 higher points magnificent views are 
 commanded (see further in Bte. 
 12). There are some fine points 
 on the Avon at Zeal and Zeal Pool , a 
 little below Shipley Bridge. (In 
 4 4 Bloody Pool” now a marshy 
 swamp, which is near, some barbed 
 spear-heads of bronze, long and leaf- 
 shaped, w'ere found about 1840. One 
 of these is now in the possession of 
 C. Tucker, Esq , F.S.A.) Wallabrook 
 and Wallaford indicate no doubt the 
 lingering presence of the 44 Wealhas” 
 — the Britons who haunted these 
 moors and valleys, and perhaps 
 streamed for tin, long after the 
 English had established themselves 
 in Damnonia. “Wealh” (the word 
 is the present 44 Welsh ” and signifies 
 a 44 stranger 99 ■ — one who was not 
 English) was the name given to the 
 Britons by their conquerors. There 
 are numerous hut-circles, the foun- 
 dations of a large British settle- 
 ment, much overgrown with heather, 
 on the 1. bank of the Avon, near its 
 junction with the Wallabrook. By 
 this route the tourist will cross a 
 green path over the moor, called the 
 “ Abbot's Way ,” and said to have 
 been kept in order by the Abbots of 
 Buckfast. It was apparently a 
 bridle-road between Buckfast and 
 f 3 
 
106 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. Sect. I. 
 
 Brent. It crosses the Avon under 
 W. Whittaborough. 
 
 A rly. has been authorised for con- 
 necting the S. Devon Rly. (from S. 
 Brent Stat.) with Kingsbridge, but 
 it is not yet begun. 
 
 The line has here reached Dart- 
 moor, and from this point it runs at 
 a considerable elevation, skirting 
 like a terrace the southern headlands 
 of the high country, and affording 
 one of the most beautiful rly. rides 
 in the kingdom. A viaduct carries 
 it into 
 
 2 Kingsbridge Road Stat. (where 
 there is a tolerable Inn, and whence 
 an omnibus runs daily to Kings- 
 bridge, meeting certain of the trains. 
 Another runs daily to Dartmouth). 
 Beyond this place the Western Beacon 
 (see post) rises on the rt., and 1. 
 stretches a far extending landscape. 
 The rly. crosses several deep and 
 broad valleys, spanning them by 
 viaducts of iron and timber on tall 
 piers of masonry. A short but lofty 
 work of this description bears the 
 line in a curve across the romantic 
 valley of the Erme to 
 Ivy Bridge Stat. 
 
 Ivy Bridge (. Inn : Mallet’s Hotel, 
 near the old Ivy Bridge ; good). This 
 village, though not very picturesque 
 in itself, is justly a favourite, being 
 situated at the mouth of a romantic 
 valley, in close proximity to Dart- 
 moor. It derives its name from the 
 Ivy-bridge , once embowered as its 
 name imports, and traversed by the 
 high-road, but now somewhat de- 
 nuded by winter floods, and left in 
 its old age to preside over a barren 
 company of rocks. This venerable 
 structure is but a few yards in length, 
 yet it stands in 4 parishes— Ugbo- 
 rough, Ermington, Harford, and 
 Cornwood — each of which claims a 
 fourth part of it. The objects of in- 
 terest here are the Ivy-bridge , the 
 river Erme and its glen, British anti- 
 quities on Dartmoor , the viaduct of the 
 S. Devon railway, paper-mills, an em- 
 
 bryo lead-mine, and the twisted spire 
 of Ermington. 
 
 The river Erme, rising on the hills 
 near Fox Tor, flows through Ivy 
 Bridge, and falls into the sea at 
 Bigbury Bay ; it is at times a wild 
 impetuous stream, which leaves its 
 bed of granite, and carries the wreck 
 of the moor over the neighbouring 
 fields. For about 2 m. above Ivy 
 Bridge (as far as Harford Bridge'), 
 those who enjoy fine scenery should 
 explore this river, which for some 
 distance flows through a romantic 
 solitary glen, filled with old woods 
 and rocks, and just above Ivy Bridge 
 spanned by a viaduct of the South 
 Devon Railway, a spider-like fabric 
 of such slender proportions that one 
 wonders it has not long since been 
 blown away into the moor. It re- 
 sembles at a distance a line of tall 
 chimneys, and consists of a black 
 wooden roadway, which is carried in 
 a curve over ten pairs of white gra- 
 nite pillars, each pair being 60 ft. 
 apart, and the most elevated 115 ft. 
 above the valley. Having reached 
 Harford Bridge, where the scene is 
 wild and pleasing, the stranger should 
 ascend to the village. The Perp. 
 ch., long sadly neglected, has been 
 repaired and put in order. The 
 carved roof-ribs and wall-plates de- 
 serve notice. The wall-plate on the 
 N. side of the chancel has the in- 
 scription “IHS. helpe us. Amen. 
 Walter Hele Pson, 1539.” There is 
 a Brass for Thomas Williams, Speaker 
 of Parliament, 1562; he is in ar- 
 mour; and the inscription records 
 that he “ Now in heaven with mighty 
 Jove doth raigne.” He died, says 
 Sir William Pole, “ in his young 
 flourishing age,” and was “ a man 
 excellently learned in the laws of 
 this realm.” In the S. aisle is a 
 monumental brass for John Pri- 
 deaux of Stowford, wife, 7 sons, and 
 3 daughters. The fourth son, in a 
 doctor’s gown, became Reg. Prof, of 
 Divinity at Oxford, Rector of Exeter 
 College, and Bishop of Worcester 
 
Devonshire. Route 7. — Harford Bridge — Coryton Ball . 107 
 
 (1641-1650). He was an unflinching 
 royalist, and excommunicated all in 
 his diocese who took up arms against 
 the king. (For local anecdotes con- 
 cerning him, seeUgborough,Rte. 16.) 
 This brass was placed here by him. 
 The tourist may look into the church- 
 yard, noting the ages marked on 
 the tombstones, and a granite monu- 
 ment, which will remind him of the 
 cromlech. The old mansion of the 
 Williams family at Stow ford has 
 been pulled down ; but the present 
 house retains some fragments, the 
 best of which, a crocketed and em- 
 battled chimney surmounting the 
 roof of the kitchen, is probably 
 coeval with “ Speaker 55 Williams. 
 On the hill above the village he 
 may, however, find a sepulchre to 
 which these old tombs are but memo- 
 rials of our own time, — a kistvaen , 
 enclosed within a circle of 9 upright 
 stones, still erect. 
 
 From Harford, if he finds a plea- 
 sure in rambling through rude and 
 pathless wilds, he should trace the 
 stream towards its source. On the 
 rt. bank of the river is a so-called 
 “ sacred” circle, of which 19 stones 
 are in position. From it a single 
 row of stones, about 3 ft. distant 
 from each other, extends N. for 
 about 2 miles, leading in a direct 
 line over the moor, crossing the 
 river diagonally, and ascending the 
 side of the opposite hill straight to 
 the summit. Beyond is the huge 
 flank of Sharpitor (rt. lj m. from 
 Harford), where, growing on the 
 rocky slope are some dwarf oak- 
 trees and hawthorns, not so aged as 
 those of Wistman’s Wood (Rte. 13), 
 but, like them, remarkable for their 
 small size, contorted limbs and trunks, 
 and golden coats of moss. The scene 
 is wild and solitary, and on the 
 opposite side of the stream there is 
 an abrupt and dreary hill, the haunt 
 of a lazy echo, who, taking time to 
 rame her answers, renders them 
 by that means the more impressive. 
 Having paused to listen to this “ spirit 
 
 of a sound,” the pedestrian should 
 next visit a cairn , some 60 yards 
 in circumf., on the top of Shar- 
 pitor; and then proceed to Three 
 Barrow Tor (the next hill to the 
 N., and 1519 ft. high), which is 
 both crowned with a cairn and 
 traversed by an ancient road or 
 trackway , in places 16 ft. wide, which 
 runs down the N. slope, towards the 
 N.W. Farther up the river (3 m. 
 from Sharpitor) is Erme Pound , an 
 apparently modern enclosure. Erme 
 Head is nearly 2 m. N., and Tealm 
 Head 1^ m. S.W. of Erme pound. 
 Plym Head is about 2 m. N.W. of 
 Erme Head. On Brown Heath , near 
 Erme Head, are 2 enclosures, in 
 diameter about 150 yds., containing 
 several hut circles. Connecting the 
 enclosures is a stone avenue about 1 77 
 yds. long, with, at the N. end, a kist- 
 vaen enclosed in a circle of stones. 
 The wanderer, as he returns, can 
 ascend the Western Beacon (alt. 1130 
 ft.), a lofty hill at the entrance of 
 the valley. It commands a wonder- 
 ful view, and is crested by barrows. 
 Others may be observed disposed 
 along the moor in a line to the N.E. 
 The coast, from Portland in Dorset 
 to the Lizard in Cornwall, is some- 
 times visible from this beacon ; and 
 the South Hams lie mapped out 
 below it. 
 
 On Coryton Ball , a hill about 3 m. 
 N. E. of Harford ch., rising above 
 a feeder of the Avon, are the re- 
 mains of a very remarkable monu- 
 ment, consisting of 7 or 8 parallel 
 rows of stones, and extending for at 
 least 100 yds. Many stones are 
 missing, and of those which remain 
 many are very small. At the E. end 
 are 7 stones which may have been 
 portions of a circle. At no great dis- 
 tance from these stones (about 100 
 yds. from the moor gate opening 
 on Coryton Ball, and separating it 
 from the cultivated lands through 
 which a road leads to S. Brent) are 
 some large stones which seem to 
 have formed part of a cromlech. 2 
 
108 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7. — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 supporters are fallen; one stands 
 erect (4 ft. high, 5 ft. wide). The 
 impost is 11 ft. long; and the re- 
 mains stand on the edge of a large 
 cairn (much demolished), which may- 
 have entombed it. This group of 
 relics was first noticed by Mr. C. 
 Spence Bate (Trans. Dev. Assoc., 
 1871), who remarks justly that the 
 parallel rows of stone resemble, on a 
 very small scale, the “ Sarsen stones” 
 at Ashdown in Berkshire. (See 
 these figured in Fergusson’s ‘ Rude 
 Stone Monts./ p. 123 ; and for some 
 further remarks, the lntrod. to this 
 Handbook). 
 
 [The walk across Dartmoor from 
 Ivy Bridge to Prince Town may be 
 strongly recommended. Proceed 
 (as above) to the trackway on Three 
 Barrow Tor ; thence turn down to- 
 ward the Erme (noticing some 
 curious hillocks of bog), and follow 
 up the stream to Erme Pound. The 
 hut circles on the way will be re- 
 marked, since, from the absence of 
 scattered surface granite, they readily 
 catch the eye. Passing Erme Pound 
 and Erme Head, steer N.W. over 
 the ridge of moor (turn aside, if you 
 like, a little rt., for Fox Tor) as far 
 as JNun’s or Sy ward’s Cross (see 
 Rte. 13). Thence follow the low 
 rampart of earth which runs up the 
 hill and marks the boundary of the 
 “forest” by Tor Royal to Prince’s 
 Town. In fine weather the traveller 
 will encounter no bogs on this route ; 
 he will pass many primitive remains, 
 and will gain a very fair idea of the 
 desolate grandeur of Dartmoor. The 
 only difficulty will be in the 3 m. 
 between Erme Head and Nun’s Cross, 
 as there are no very conspicuous 
 landmarks. The traveller must trust 
 to his pocket compass and his map, 
 both indispensable for such expedi- 
 tions. 3 
 
 Two paper-mills are situated on the 
 Erme at Ivy Bridge; and below 
 them, \ m. from the hotel, is the en- 
 trance of a field-path, which accom- 
 panies the river to the pretty hamlet 
 
 of Caton , passing the works of a lead 
 mine , the shaft of which is sunk to a 
 depth of 25 fathoms on the opposite 
 side of the stream. From Caton a lane 
 leads to Ermington (Fawn Hotel), 
 the ch. of which is known for its 
 curiously' twisted spire. (See Rte. 16.) 
 From Ermington the pedestrian, if 
 bound for the romantic shores of 
 Bigbury Bay (Rte. 15), can follow 
 the stream through the park of Fleet 
 House (W. F. Splatt, Esq.), and pass 
 thence at low water along the shore 
 of the estuary to Mothecomb ; or, if 
 likely to be met by the tide, turn 
 to the rt. after passing the man- 
 sion of Fleet House, and proceed to 
 Mothecomb by Holbeton. One of the 
 most beautiful of Creswick’s pic- 
 tures, that which gained the prize 
 at the British Institute, was painted 
 in the lane between Ivy Bridge 
 and Caton. 
 
 (For Ugborough, 3 m. E. of Ivy 
 Bridge, see Rte. 16.) 
 
 Adjoining Ivy Bridge is Highland 
 House , long the residence of the late 
 Wm. Cotton, Esq., well known for 
 his labours on the Life of Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds, and for his munificent 
 donation of the “ Cottonian Library” 
 to Plymouth. 
 
 On the skirts of the moor near 
 Ivy Bridge are Blackford (Lord 
 Blachford. Sir ‘Frederick Rogers 
 was created Baron Blachford of Wis- 
 dome in 1871. The baronetcy dates 
 from 1698), containing pictures; 
 Slade (T. J. Pode, Esq.) ; and the old 
 farmhouses of Far dell and Cholwich 
 Town, the former anciently the seat 
 of the family of Sir Walter Raleigh, 
 the latter of Cholwich. Raleigh’s 
 lather removed from Fardell to Hayes, 
 near Budleigh Salterton, where the 
 statesman was born. There are 
 considerable remains of the old man- 
 sion at Fardell, including portions of 
 the chapel. In the courtyard for- 
 merly stood an inscribed bilingual 
 stone of the Roman-British period, 
 which is now removed to the British 
 Museum. It has on it, on one side, 
 
109 
 
 Devonshire. Route 7 —Cornwood — Plympton St. Mary . 
 
 “ Fanoni Macqui£lni,” and on the 
 other, “Sapanui,” beside some Og- 
 ham characters on the edges. The 
 tradition of the neighbourhood makes 
 the inscription refer to treasure 
 buried by Raleigh in an adjoining 
 field ; and the local rhyme runs — 
 
 " Between this stone and Fardell Hall 
 Lies as much money as the devil can haul. ,, 
 
 This is the only instance in which 
 an Ogham inscription has been found 
 in Devon. 
 
 2 j m. Cornwood Stat. 
 
 Cornwood, commonly called Cross, 
 is a village on the Yealm, about 4 m. 
 from its fountain-head. The ch. is 
 of little interest. There are lofty 
 tors and antiquities in the moorland 
 valley of this river. Pen Beacon , 2 
 m. N. of Cornwood, is 1570 ft. high; 
 Shell Top , or Pensheil , 1 m. N. of 
 Pen Beacon, 1600 ft. On the S.W. 
 slope of the latter are numerous hut 
 circles , and one enclosed village, the 
 wall about which is nearly square, 
 with rounded corners. There are 
 2 entrances, with remains of small 
 huts (guard chambers ?) adjoining 
 the lower. On the S. side of the 
 hill is a large cairn, with fragments 
 of a stone avenue running from it. 
 In the neighbourhood of these hills, 
 on the bank of the river, about 1 
 m. from Yealm Head, are the foun- 
 dations of an oblong building (21 
 ft. by 16 ft.), which the late Mr. 
 Woollcombe, President of the Ply- 
 mouth Instit., conjectured had been 
 a hermitage. Near Tolch Gate, on 
 Cholwich-town Moor, are remains of 
 a stone avenue (partly destroyed by 
 the rly. contractors), and a circle 
 (some 5 ft. in diam.), of which 6 
 stones stand erect. The moorland 
 walk from Cornwood, by Pen Bea- 
 con and Shell Top to Sheepstor 
 is a. fine one. From Sheepstor the 
 tourist may proceed to Tavistock, or 
 to the Horrabridge Stat. on the 
 Plymouth and Tavistock rly. There 
 are interesting antiquities on Trow - 
 lesworthy Tor , beyond Shell Top; 
 
 (see post , Exc. fr. Plymouth.) Close 
 to Cornwood are Goodamoor , Miss 
 Treby ; Delamore , Captain Parker ; 
 and Beechwood , Lady Seaton. 1 m. 
 S.W., is the eminence of Hemerdon 
 Ball, on which a large camp was 
 formed when Napoleon was threaten- 
 4ng the country with an invasion. 
 In this neighbourhood, too, are the 
 China-clay Works of Heddon, Small 
 Hanger , and Morley. Hall, N. of 
 Cornwood, was the residence of Col. 
 Chudleigh, father of the notorious 
 Elizabeth C., afterwards Duchess 
 of Kingston, the iElia Lselia Chud- 
 leigh of Walpole. 
 
 Beyond Ivy Bridge the rly. pur- 
 sues its course along the edge of 
 Dartmoor, and commands on the rt. 
 one of the most charming views on 
 the whole line — that of the valley 
 and woods of Slade , and of a great 
 moorland hill which closes in the 
 valley. Blackford , seat of Lord 
 
 Blaehford, is next seen rt., and the 
 train then commences a long de- 
 scent to 
 
 4\ m. from Cornwood Stat. Plymp- 
 ton Stat., near which on the 1. is 
 the town and handsome Perp. pin- 
 nacled tower of 
 
 Plympton St. Mary. The only build- 
 ing deserving notice is the Church, 
 a remarkably handsome structure, 
 standing in a lawn-like churchyard. 
 It has (1860) been restored in good 
 taste by the incumbent and pa- 
 rishioners. The exterior is beauti- 
 fully tinted with lichens, and displays 
 a profusion of fanciful ornament. 
 The ch, contains Dec. and Perp. 
 portions ; the tower, 108 ft. high, is 
 of the latter period. Observe the E. 
 window, the granite piers in the 
 nave, and the Strode monuments, 
 dated respectively 1460 and 1637. 
 This ch. was formerly attached to 
 the great Priory of Plympton, which 
 was founded by Bp. William Warel- 
 wast (L 107-1 136) for Augustinian 
 canons. There had been a collegiate 
 ch. here, with a dean and secular 
 
110 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Ponte 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 canons, before the Conquest. Warel- 
 wast dissolved this establishment be- 
 cause the canons “ would not leave 
 their concubines” (for which we 
 should no doubt read wives), and re- 
 moved the seculars to the college he 
 had newly founded on his manor of 
 Bosham, in Sussex. Plympton Priory 
 received great benefactions from 
 Baldwin de Redvers, earl of Devon, 
 and others; and became at last the 
 richest monastic establishment in the 
 county, exceeding even the Benedic- 
 tine monastery at Tavistock in its 
 yearly revenue. This, at the Dis- 
 solution, was 912Z. The seal dis- 
 played the Blessed Virgin with the 
 Divine Infant seated on her lap, and 
 bearing a hawk, hooded and belled, 
 on her wrist, — a mark of feudal dig- 
 nity. Great part of the ground on 
 which the town of Plymouth stands 
 belonged to this monastery, and 
 Plymouth itself owed much to the 
 connection. (See post , Plymouth.) 
 Great personages arriving there were 
 received and harboured at the Priory, 
 the Black Prince among them. (See 
 post.) The existing ch. of St. Mary 
 stood isolated in what was the ch.- 
 yard of the canons. It served doubt- 
 less as the parish ch. The great ch. 
 of the Augustinians has altogether 
 vanished. In it were buried the 
 founder, Bp. Warelwast, who, weary 
 of the world and (it is asserted) 
 blind, retired here to die (he was the 
 builder of the Norman cathedral at 
 Exeter: see Rte. 1); his nephew, 
 Robert Warelwast, also bp. of Exeter ; 
 and some of the Courtenays. Of 
 the monastic buildings there are more 
 remains than is generally supposed. 
 They stand behind the existing ch., 
 near the stream of the Tory brook. 
 The refectory, with its undercroft or 
 cellar, remains nearly perfect. The 
 undercroft is Norm., with a doorway, 
 of which the caps, side-shafts, and 
 outer arch-moulding are slightly 
 enriched. This may well be part of 
 Warelwast’s work. (A passage in 
 the thickness of the wall is said, in 
 
 accordance with a usual tradition, to 
 lead to Plympton Castle.) The di- 
 mensions are 61 ft. 6 in. by 14 ft. 
 Above this cellar (which is vaulted 
 in stone) is the refectory, of E. Eng. 
 date, with windows, roof, and fire- 
 place. E. of the refectory is the 
 kitchen, a detached building of the 
 1 5th centy . in a tolerably perfect state. 
 The position of the Priory mill is 
 indicated by a modern structure, on 
 the site of the former. The orchard 
 which adjoins is said to be the oldest 
 in England, but the same is asserted 
 of the orchard at Buckland Abbey 
 (see Rte. 14) and the matter is some- 
 what doubtful. Fragments of the 
 great ch. and of the cloisters are to be 
 seen built into modern walls and 
 hedges. 
 
 1 m. 1. of Plympton St. Mary is 
 
 Plympton Maurice , or Plympton Earl 
 
 (commemorative of its Norman lords, 
 the Earls of Devon), an old Stannary 
 and borough town, which returned 
 M.P.s from the 23rd of Edw. I. to 
 the time of the Reform Bill, but is 
 more famous as the birthplace of Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds, our greatest portrait- 
 painter, b. 16 July, 1723. It con- 
 tains the ruin of a Castle built by 
 Richard de Redvers (Henry I/s 
 Earl of Devon), and first dismantled 
 when his son Baldwin, the second 
 earl of that race, was defending 
 Exeter against Stephen (see the 
 Gesta Stephani, which describes the 
 valley of Plympton as one of the 
 richest in the county). It was 
 soon afterwards restored. There 
 was some skirmishing around it in 
 the time of King John ; and — to step 
 at once over 4 centuries — it was the 
 head-quarters of Prince Maurice 
 during the siege of Plymouth, 
 1643. In the following year it 
 was taken by the Earl of Essex. The 
 extensive site of the ancient building 
 is encompassed by a moat, and now 
 forms an agreeable promenade ; a 
 fragment of circular wall crowning 
 a mound which commands a view of 
 
Devonshire. Route 7.- 
 
 the town and of the neighbouring 
 hills. There was, as at Exeter and 
 Totnes, no regular keep; but this 
 wall surrounded the <f motte.” The 
 antiquary may speculate on a sin- 
 gular hollow, which runs through 
 this wall, and may remind him of 
 those in the Scottish “duns,” or 
 Pictish towers. Stukely describes a 
 similar hollow in the wall of Exeter 
 Castle. See Rte. 1. 
 
 Many of the houses in Plympton 
 bear the stamp of age, and some pro- 
 ject on arches like those of Totnes. 
 Plympton House , a large mansion so 
 called, was built by the Rt. Hon. 
 George Treby in the reign of Q. 
 Anne. The venerable Guildhall is 
 marked on the front with the date 
 1696, and was formerly enriched 
 with a portrait of Sir Joshua Rey- 
 nolds, by himself, now at Silverton. 
 It was presented to the corporation 
 by the artist on his being elected 
 mayor of his native town (a circum- 
 stance, says Cotton, which he de- 
 clared gave him more pleasure than 
 any other honour he had received 
 during his life), and was disgrace- 
 fully sold by the Reformed Corpo- 
 ration for 150£. Mr. Alcock, vicar 
 of Cornwood, addressed the painter 
 in the following distich : — 
 
 “ Laudat Romanus Raphaelem, Graecus 
 Apellem 
 
 Plympton Reynolden jactat, utrique 
 parem.” 
 
 But the jiew-made mayor would not 
 allow the lines to be inscribed, as 
 was desired, on the back of the por- 
 trait. This is now at Silverton Park 
 (Rte. 2). Sir Joshua desired that it 
 might be hung in a good situation, 
 and the corporation told him that it 
 had been placed between 2 old por- 
 traits, which acted as a foil, and set 
 it I off to advantage. It afterwards 
 turned out that these old portraits 
 had been painted by Sir Joshua him- 
 self before he went to Italy. The 
 Grammar School, of which his father 
 was master, was erected about the 
 year 1664, It is a quaint old building 
 
 -Plympton c 111 
 
 with high roof, portico, and piazza, . 
 and well accords with the time-worn 
 granite ch. and castle adjoining it. 
 It was founded and endowed, 1658, 
 by Sergt. Maynard, one of the trus- 
 tees of estates left to charitable 
 purposes by Elize Hele, Esq., of Far- 
 dell. The school-room, 63 ft. long, 
 is lighted E. and W. by large Perp., 
 and N. and S. by square-headed 
 windows. 2 shields on the wall 
 bear the arms of Maynard and Hele. 
 Below is an arcade or cloister, with 
 a long range of granite columns, 
 the subject of one of Reynolds’s 
 earliest attempts at a perspective 
 drawing. 
 
 The house in which Sir Joshua 
 was born closely adjoined the gram- 
 mar-school. A new scheme for the 
 management of the school was issued 
 by the Charity Commissioners in 
 1868, appointing a body of working 
 trustees. Under their superintend- 
 ence the old master’s house— a locus 
 sacer in the eyes of all lovers of art 
 — was removed altogether, and a new 
 house has been erected, set back at a 
 right angle with the school, and cer- 
 tainly displaying the frontage of the 
 latter, with its cloister and granite 
 columns, to great advantage. It 
 must be admitted that the old house 
 had no architectural character ; that 
 it was completely out of repair, and 
 very inconvenient; and that its re- 
 storation would have been exceed- 
 ingly costly. Still it is impossible 
 not to regret its demolition. The 
 school itself is now flourishing and 
 efficient; and it has been suggested 
 that a very fitting memorial of Sir 
 Joshua would be the appending to it 
 of one or more exhibitions (not to be 
 unconnected with art), which might 
 be carried to either university. It 
 may be hoped that some such design 
 will be carried into effect. 
 
 The Church is supposed to have 
 been originally a chapel appendant to 
 the ch. of P. St. Mary. It was first 
 dedicated to St. Thomas of Canter- 
 bury, and afterwards to St. Maurice. 
 
Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . Sect. I. 
 
 11.2 
 
 In the neighbourhood of these 2 
 towns of Plympton are the seats of 
 Chaddlewood , G. W. C. Soltau Symons, 
 Esq.; Hemerdon House , Mrs. Wooll- 
 combe ; Newnham Park, G. Sidney 
 Strode, Esq. ; and Elfordleigh , Allen, 
 Esq. The line of a Roman Road , the 
 branch of the Ikenhilde which passed 
 into Cornwall, is indicated by the 
 names of Darkstreet-lane and Ridge- 
 way. The parish road which runs 
 from the rly. stat. at Plympton to 
 Plym Bridge, and thence to Tamer- 
 ton, is part of the same ancient way. 
 
 The scenery at Plym Bridge 
 (lj m. from P. St. Mary) is wooded 
 and picturesque. Among the woods 
 rt. is Boringdon , an ancient manor 
 which has belonged to the Parkers 
 (the family of which the Earl of 
 Morley is the head) since the time 
 of Elizabeth. It was long their 
 residence, and gives a title to the 
 earl’s eldest son, but is now a farm- 
 house, with the hall and some other 
 portions remaining. The hall is late 
 Tudor, and although much defaced, 
 is worth a visit. (See more, Rte. 14.) 
 
 Starting again from Plympton, the 
 rly. leaves the hills for a broad flat 
 valley, bounded 1. by the woods of 
 Saltram (Earl of Morley, but occu- 
 pied by — Hartmann, Esq.). (See 
 post , excursion from Plymouth.) It 
 crosses the narrow head of the 
 Lair a Estuary (perhaps a cousin of 
 the Icelandic “ Leiru-vogr ” — the 
 “bay of mud” — near Reikjavik. 
 “ Leary ” in some parts of Devon- 
 shire means “ empty,” e.g. “ a leary 
 cart both words may be connected ), 
 and runs along its margin. In 
 the distance is seen the iron Laira 
 Bridge of 5 arches (an early work 
 of the late engineer, J. M. Rendell), 
 and as this vanishes from the view 
 the line enters a deep cutting, reaches 
 the little station at Mutley , and then 
 passes through a tunnel to the station 
 in the centre of — 
 
 5 m. Plymouth . As the train rushes 
 through the suburbs, the traveller 
 will observe to the rt. the cemetery, 
 
 with its two chapels for Churchmen 
 and Dissenters. 
 
 6 Plymouth. Inns : 1 . Royal Ho- 
 tel ; Globe ; Albion Hotel ; Chubb’s 
 Commercial Hotel, rebuilt 1858 in 
 the Anglo-Italian style, on the site 
 of one of the oldest hostelries in the 
 town: C. O. C. Arthur, architect. 
 2. A magnificent new hotel (the Duke 
 of Cornwall, joint stock company: 
 C. F. Hayward, architect, 1865). 
 This is perhaps the best and most 
 convenient in Plymouth. Pop. 68,080. 
 
 Stonehouse. {Inn : Brunswick 
 Hotel.) Pop. 14,586. 
 
 Devonport. {Inns : Royal Hotel ; 
 London Hotel.) Pop. (including 
 Stoke) 49,414. 
 
 The stat. serves for the S. Devon, 
 the Cornwall, and the Plymouth and 
 Tavistock Rlys. A tramway for 
 omnibuses (drawn by horses) leads 
 from the Plymouth end of Union 
 Street to the bottom of Chapel Street 
 in Devonport. 
 
 These three maritime towns of the 
 West, situated on the shore of a 
 noble harbour, at a part of the Chan- 
 nel the most convenient for a war- 
 station and for the purposes of com- 
 merce, and in a country rich both in 
 minerals and agricultural produce, 
 have long occupied a high place in 
 public estimation, and are among the 
 most thriving of all the towns in 
 Great Britain. So rapid, indeed, 
 has been their growth, especially 
 during the French war, that the 
 three may be now considered as 
 one grand focus of trade and naval 
 and military preparation. They 
 have parted with their individu- 
 ality, and become sections of a far 
 more important union. At the two 
 extremities are the naval (the Dock- 
 yard and the Steamy ard at Key ham, 
 Devonport) and the chief military 
 (the Citadel, Plymouth) stations. 
 Stonehouse is the quarters of the 
 marine corps. For the information 
 | of the traveller, we shall describe 
 I these three great divisions separately, 
 


 1 . Royal Hotel, Athenaeum and Plymouth Institution. 
 
 2. Duke of Cornwall Hotel. 
 
 3. Public Library. 
 
4. Guildhall. 
 
 5. St. Andrew’s Church. 
 
 6. St. Charles’s Church. 
 

113 
 
 Devonshire. Route 7. — Plymouth: History . 
 
 conduct him along the shore of the 
 Sound, proceed with him up the 
 river Tamar, and to places worth 
 viewing in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood; and then take him to scenes 
 more distant, but of singular beauty 
 and interest. 
 
 Plymouth is the first-born of this 
 sisterhood of towns. There was a 
 Homan station (Tamara) in the 
 neighbourhood (probably at King’s 
 Tamerton, where there are some 
 remains of ancient earthworks), and 
 it is probable that the harbour of 
 Plymouth was frequented at an early 
 period by tin traders ; so at least the 
 cemetery discovered above Oreston 
 seems to indicate (see post, Oreston , 
 exc. f.). But there are no traces of 
 early settlement on the actual site 
 of Plymouth ; and the British road, 
 adopted by the Komans, which ran 
 from Exeter to the Tamar, passed 
 considerably at the back of the 
 Sound. The more ancient town of 
 Plympton was on this road (see 
 ante ); and the Augustinian Priory 
 of Plympton was the “ nursing 
 mother ” of Plymouth. Three small 
 fishing hamlets, known as Sutton 
 (south-town) Prior and two “ King’s 
 Suttons” existed at the time of the 
 Domesday survey where the more 
 ancient part of Plymouth now stands. 
 The “King’s Suttons” were after- 
 wards distinguished as Sutton Balf 
 and Sutton Valletort, from the fami- 
 lies to whom they were granted. 
 They were of less importance, how- 
 ever, than Sutton Prior, which be- 
 longed to the Plympton Priory, and 
 which was also known as “ Sutton 
 juxta. Plym-mouthe.” From the 
 fisheries here, carefully watched 
 over and encouraged by the priory, 
 have been gradually developed all 
 the commerce, wealth, and import- 
 ance of Plymouth — a name which at 
 last (but not completely until 1439, 
 when the town was incorporated by 
 Act of Parliament) altogether super- 
 seded that of Sutton. The most 
 ancient harbour, on the west side of 
 
 which lies the oldest part of the 
 town, is still known as Sutton Pool. 
 The Catw^ater (the estuary of the 
 Plym) and Hamoaze (that of the 
 Tamar) were the general roadsteads 
 until the Breakwater rendered the 
 Sound a secure anchorage ; and com- 
 mercial ships still lie in Cat water. 
 
 The earliest historical fact con- 
 nected with the harbour is the 
 assembling there in 1287 of a fleet of 
 325 ships, under the command of the 
 Earl of Lancaster, brother of Edward 
 I., which sailed for Guienne. Less 
 than a century later the town had 
 become important enough to attract 
 the attention of the French, who in 
 1339 descended here, and did great 
 damage. They were repulsed by 
 the men of Devon under their Earl, 
 Hugh Courtenay. In 1377 a part of 
 the town was again burned. In 
 1400 a French fleet under James de 
 Bourbon, plundered and did much 
 mischief; and in 1403 the Sieur du 
 Chastel, Lord of Britanny, attacked 
 Plymouth with a mingled force of 
 Normans and Bretons, and burned 
 upwards of 600 houses. (He was him- 
 self taken prisoner at Dartmouth in 
 1404. See Kte. 10.) The spot where 
 he landed was afterwards known as 
 “Breton Side;” and the name was 
 only changed to “ Exeter Street ” in 
 1871. The memory of this descent 
 was long preserved ; and there were 
 annual fights between the “ Burton” 
 (Breton) boys and the boys of “ Old 
 Town,” who taunted the “ Burtons ” 
 with the damage anciently done to 
 their quarter. 
 
 The harbour of Plymouth lay un- 
 fortunately open to attacks from the 
 opposite coast of- Britanny : but it 
 was an excellent point of departure 
 for expeditions to Guienne during 
 the French wars of the 14th centy. 
 In 1355 the Black Prince sailed from 
 Plymouth for the campaign which 
 ended with the battle of Poitiers. 
 He was detained here by contrary 
 winds for more than a month, and 
 was hospitably entertained by the 
 
114 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 .—Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 Prior at Plympton. He granted at 
 this time to one of his followers, who 
 had been active in the wars and had 
 lost an eye in battle, the revenues of 
 the ferry at Saltash. It is not cer- 
 tain, although Walsingham asserts 
 it, that the prince landed at Ply- 
 mouth on his return, with his prisoner 
 John, king of France. Froissart 
 and others are more probably right, 
 who make him land at Sandwich. 
 But he certainly landed here in 1370, 
 when he left Aquitaine for the last 
 time, aud returned, broken in health, 
 with his wife and his remaining son, 
 Richard of Bordeaux, afterwards 
 Richard II. His eldest son Edward 
 had just died. After resting for 
 some time at the priory, he was con- 
 veyed to London in a litter, survived 
 until 1376, but never again took part 
 in public affairs. 
 
 In 1470, the Earl of Warwick and 
 the Duke of Clarence, brother of 
 Edward IV., landed, according to 
 some authorities, at Plymouth ; and 
 Margaret of Anjou, with her son 
 Edward, landed here in the following 
 year, to be soon totally defeated at 
 Tewkesbury. In 1501 (Oct. 2) the 
 Princess Catherine of Arragon ar- 
 rived here. She was received with 
 great rejoicings, and went at once in 
 procession to the church, where she 
 knelt for the first time on English 
 ground. She was lodged by “one 
 Painter, a rich marchaunt,” who, as 
 Leland tells us, had “ made a goodly 
 house toward the haven/’ This 
 house, in Catte Street, is still pro- 
 bably remaining (See post). The 
 princess journeyed from Plymouth 
 to Exeter by Tavistock and Oke- 
 hampton. (See Rte. 1 : Exeter, the 
 Deanery.) 
 
 The importance of Plymouth as a 
 harbour increased enormously after 
 the discovery of America. The 
 Hawkinses — (William, “ a man for 
 his wisdom and skill in sea causes 
 much esteemed of King Henry VIII. ,” 
 the pioneer of English adventure in 
 the South Seas, and his son John, the 
 
 “ Achines ” noticed with so much 
 dread in the memorials and de- 
 spatches of Philip II., whose beard 
 he so often singed — see Froude’s 
 Hist.) — Drake, Raleigh, Gilbert, 
 Grenville, Davies, Frobisher, and 
 Cavendish, with many another ad- 
 venturer to the “new found world” 
 frequently sailed from here. In 
 1588 the English fleet lay in Cat- 
 water, awaiting the approach of the 
 Armada ; and it was to the captains 
 assembled on the “Hoe” that the 
 news of its appearance, says tradition, 
 was first brought (see post, the Hoe). 
 The great expedition against Cadiz, 
 commanded by Howard and Essex, 
 sailed from Plymouth in June, 1596 ; 
 and the streets of the place are de- 
 scribed as “ full of the bravery and 
 splendid apparel ” of the knights and 
 adventurers who joined it. A plen- 
 tiful crop of “ Knights of Cales ” 
 (Cadiz) sprang up after the taking 
 of the place ; and the last, Sir Robert 
 Dudley, was knighted, after the re- 
 turn of the ships, in the streets of 
 Plymouth, “as the Lords General 
 came from the sermon.” The May- 
 flower,” conveying the “ Pilgrim 
 Fathers,” sailed from Plymouth in 
 1608. The ship had put into 
 Plymouth after her companion, the 
 “ Speedwell,” had left her off Dart- 
 mouth. The Puritans, 101 souls in 
 all, were “kindly entertained and 
 courteously used by divers friends 
 there dwelling,” and when they 
 planted the earliest settlement on the 
 coast of New England, they gave it 
 the name of the town which had so 
 hospitably received them. A charter 
 was granted by King James in 1606, 
 giving the exclusive right of settling 
 Virginia to two companies of mer- 
 chants, the “ London ” and the “ Ply- 
 mouth” Company. The Plymouth 
 Company first attempted a settle- 
 ment at the mouth of the Kenneber. 
 They obtained a new charter in 1620 ; 
 and the first settlements in Maine 
 (1622), Massachusetts (1628), and 
 Portland (1631), were established by 
 
Devonshire. Route 7 .- — Plymouth: History, 115 
 
 the “ Council of Plymouth ” as the 
 company was called after obtaining 
 the 2nd charter. This was sur- 
 rendered in 1635. “ Thus,” says Mr. 
 Worth, “ the first attempts to settle 
 what is now the great republic of 
 the West were made by Devonshire 
 men sailing out of Plymouth Sound” 
 Charles I. and his queen visited 
 Plymouth in 1625, and were magni- 
 ficently entertained ; but the town 
 of Plymouth was strongly Parlia- 
 mentarian. It underwent two dis- 
 tinct sieges (Sept.-Dee. 1613, and 
 April-Sept. 1614), besides a continu- 
 ous blockade until the spring of 
 1616, when Fairfax and Cromwell 
 advanced fromTotnes, and the hopes 
 of the royalists in the West were 
 finally quenched. Prince Maurice 
 conducted the first, and for a short 
 time, the second siege, and Charles 
 himself was present on his return 
 from Cornwall, whither he had fol- 
 lowed Essex. The town was well 
 walled and defended by advanced 
 redoubts, some of which are still 
 traceable. (The register of St. An- 
 drew’s ch. contains many records 
 of soldiers’ burials. Those of the 
 king’s party are distinguished by 
 the word “ Cavalier”) In 1662 the 
 engagement between De Ruyter and 
 Sir George Ayscough was watched 
 from the Hoe. Charles II. visited 
 the town more than once, partly to 
 watch the progress of the new citadel 
 (see post), and partly with the in- 
 tention of establishing a dockyard, 
 which was not carried out until the 
 reign of Will. III. The corporation 
 records tell us that King Charles on 
 his visit in 1670, received 150 pieces 
 of gold besides a “purse to put it 
 in” which cost 5s. 6d. In 1676 he 
 came again with his brother James, 
 and “ touched for the evil ” in St. 
 Andrew’s ch., where a state canopy 
 and throne were erected. Cosmo de’ 
 Medici, grand -duke of Tuscany, 
 landed at Plymouth in 1671; and 
 the published account of his travels 
 describes the town as “one of the 
 
 best in England, exceedingly well 
 supplied.” The fleet which brought 
 William of Orange to this country 
 wintered here (1688-9). Since the 
 establishment of the Dockyard, and 
 especially during the French wars of 
 the last, and early in the present, 
 centuries, the harbour has been the 
 resort of English fleets and men-of- 
 war innumerable. Capt. Cook sailed 
 from Plymouth in 1768, and again in 
 1772; and the names of Benbow, 
 Boscawen, Rodney, Howe, Jervis, 
 Collingwood, and Nelson are closely 
 connected with Hamoaze and the Cat- 
 water. In 1815 Napoleon remained 
 for some days in the Sound on board 
 the “ Bellerophon and a portrait 
 of the Emperor was then painted by 
 Sir C. L. Eastlake. (This picture is 
 now in the possession of Lord Clinton. 
 A smaller portrait', also painted at 
 this time, is the property of Lady 
 Eastlake.) 
 
 Of Plymouth celebrities, besides 
 the Hawkinses already mentioned, 
 the following should be recorded. 
 Joseph Glanville , author of 4 Saddu- 
 cismus Triumphatus,’ born in 1636. 
 He became rector of Bath. Jacob 
 Bryant , the mythologist, born at 
 Plymouth early in the 18th centy. 
 Dr. Zachary Mudge , born here 1694. 
 Dr. Hawker , vicar of Charles Church 
 from 1781; Carrington , the poet of 
 ‘Dartmoor,’ whose life was chiefly 
 spent in Devonport : Dr. Bidlake , 
 Bampton Lecturer, and author of 
 some poems, born 1751; Dr. Kitto , 
 born in 1801, the son of a mason ; 
 William Elford Leach , the naturalist, 
 born 1790 ; Sir William Snow Harris , 
 born 1791 ; John Prideaux , chemist, 
 born 1787 ; James JSorthcote , the 
 painter, born 1746, d. 1831 (Hazlitt’s 
 4 Conversations with Northcote ’ pre- 
 serve some of his old Plymouth recol- 
 lections) ; A. B . Johns , a landscape 
 artist of great excellence, born 1776, 
 d. 1858 ; Samuel Prout, the great 
 water-colour artist, “trained,” says 
 Ruskin, “among the rough rocks 
 and simple cottages of Cornwall,” 
 
116 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 born 1783, d. 1852; B. R. Haydon , the 
 painter, born 1786, d. 1846: Sir 
 
 Charles Lock Eastlake , born 1793, d. 
 1866 ; and Samuel Cook, an admir- 
 able artist in watercolours, born at 
 Camelford, 1806, but his artist life 
 was passed in Plymouth, where he 
 died in 1860. Lieut. -Col. Charles 
 Hamilton Smith , bom in Flanders in 
 1776, died at Plymouth in 1859, 
 where he had resided since 1820. 
 He was well known as a naturalist 
 and an antiquary; but his powers 
 as a draughtsman w T ere so great that 
 he may well be classed with the 
 great band of artists who, with Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds (born atPlympton) 
 at their head, confer so pre-eminent 
 a distinction on Plymouth and its 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 As the “ Borough of Sutton,” Ply- 
 mouth first sent representatives to 
 parliament in the reign of Edward I. 
 Its most distinguished “ members ” 
 have been Sir John Hawkins, Sir 
 Humphry Gilbert, and Sir Francis 
 Drake. The arrest of George Ferrers, 
 who represented the town in 1542, 
 occasioned the passing of the statute 
 which still prevents the arrest of 
 members of parliament. 
 
 The port of Plymouth is the 8th 
 in the kingdom in population, and 
 about the 6th in trade. It may here 
 be mentioned that the first true por- 
 celain made in this country was ma- 
 nufactured at Plymouth under the 
 direction of William Cookworthy , who 
 is said to have found his china clay 
 among the refuse heaps of a mine 
 near Helston. He established his 
 pottery at Coxside, Plymouth, about 
 1760. Bone , the enamelist, learnt 
 his art there. The manufacture was 
 removed to Bristol in 1780. Speci- 
 mens of Plymouth china are much 
 valued. The distinctive mark is that 
 which in astronomy denotes Jupiter. 
 
 (An excellent ‘ History of Ply- 
 mouth/ by Mr. R. N. Worth (Ply- 
 mouth, 1871) should be consulted by 
 all who desire to know more of the 
 town than can be told here.) 
 
 The chief points of interest for 
 the visitor at Plymouth are — *the 
 Citadel; *the Hoe; *St. Andrew’s 
 Church and Charles ’ Church ; a few 
 old houses in the town ; *the new 
 Guildhall; the Aihengeum; and the 
 Public Library. If the stranger first 
 visits the Citadel, he will obtain, 
 besides a magnificent view, a clear 
 notion of the position of the town 
 and of its two harbours — Hamoaze 
 and Cat water. 
 
 The * Citadel, with its formidable 
 works, occupies the eastern end of 
 the Hoe, and commands the entrance 
 of the Catwater and Sutton Pool. The 
 first defensive work at Plymouth 
 seems to have been a castle at the 
 entrance of Sutton Pool, built ap- 
 parently by Edmund Stafford, bp. of 
 Exeter (1395-1419). This is de- 
 scribed by Leland as a “ castle quad- 
 rate,” with towers at the four angles. 
 It has entirely disappeared ; but its 
 site is partly marked by the “ Bar- 
 bican” quays adjoining the Pool. 
 (This castle gave rise to the shield 
 of the town, arg. a saltire vert be- 
 tween four towers sable ; the motto, 
 “ Turris fortissima est nomen Je- 
 hova/’) The frequent French at- 
 tacks had rendered such a stronghold 
 necessary; and the town, after its 
 erection, was gradually walled to- 
 ward the sea. In 1592 a fort was 
 constructed on the Hoe, partly on 
 the site of the present Citadel . This 
 fortress was erected in the reign of 
 Charles II., not only as a defence to 
 the town, but “ as a check to the 
 rebellious spirits of the neighbour- 
 hood and consists of three regular 
 bastions, with two intermediate ones, 
 and the necessary works and rave- 
 lins. The entrance is by two sculp- 
 tured gateways with drawbridges, 
 which admit the stranger to a spa- 
 cious esplanade, adorned by a bronze 
 statue of Geo. II. in the costume 
 of a Roman warrior. The most in- 
 teresting part of the citadel is the 
 walk round the ramparts, for thence 
 are obtained delightful and varied 
 
117 
 
 Devonshire. Route 7 —Plymouth : The Hoe . 
 
 views, with a foreground of embra- 
 sures, massive walls, and cannon. 
 
 The Citadel was the most import- 
 ant fortification at Plymouth until 
 in 1860 a Royal Commission recom- 
 mended the erection of a chain of 
 forts enclosing the three towns, ex- 
 tending fromTregantle E. to Staddon 
 W. These have for the most part 
 been completed. The forts of Tre- 
 gantle Screasden, &c., are constructed 
 to defend the Dockyards from a land 
 attack in the direction of Falmouth, 
 or from a landing on the coast at 
 any point to the W. The N.E. 
 defences, from Saltash Bridge to 
 Plympton, viz. Forts Ernesettle, 
 Agaton, Knowles, Woodlands, Crown 
 Hill, Bowden, Forder, Austin, Eiford, 
 and Laira, are protections from a 
 land attack on the E. Some of these 
 are not yet (1872) completed. Forts 
 Staddon and Stamford, on the heights 
 E. of the Sound, complete the land 
 defences. The new sea defences con- 
 sist of the Breakwater fort (see post), 
 Picklecombe, and Bovisand ; Drake’s 
 Island, and Garden Battery. Visitors 
 are admitted to the forts by leave 
 from the Commanding Royal En- 
 gineer, or from the Officer in com- 
 mand of the fort when occupied by 
 troops. 
 
 * Plymouth Hoe (Sax. high ground — 
 a place for watching or observa- 
 tion. So “Hawley’s Hoe” at Dart- 
 mouth, Rte. 10. It is found too as a 
 termination in different parts of the 
 county, as Penhoe, Indiho, Paschoe, 
 &c.) is justly celebrated as one of 
 the most beautiful promenades in 
 the kingdom. It consists of a high 
 ridge of land, stretching from Mill 
 Bay to the entrance of Sutton Pool, 
 and constituting the sea-front of 
 Plymouth. The view from it is un- 
 rivalled for variety. Mount Edge- 
 cumbe is seen W., and the long ridge 
 of Staddon E. The Breakwater 
 stretches in front. By aid of the 
 map the spectator may hence distin- 
 guish the many interesting features 
 of the Sound (see post), and on a 
 
 clear day may look for the Eddy- 
 stone Lighthouse in the waste of 
 waters to the S.W. Plymouth Hoe 
 has some legendary and historic as- 
 sociations. It is mentioned in the 
 ‘ Faerie Queen 9 as the spot where, 
 according to the legend, Corineus, 
 the companion of Brute of Troy, 
 fought with the gigantic abori- 
 gines : — 
 
 “ The Western Hogh, besprinkled with the 
 gore 
 
 Of mighty Goemot, whom in stout fray 
 
 Corineus conquer'd.” 
 
 Spenser , book ii. c. 10. 
 
 Corineus was the ancestor of all 
 Cornishmen. A “ pourtrayture of 2 
 men with clubbes in their hands’’ was 
 cut on the turf of the Hoe in comme- 
 moration of this fight, and the steps 
 by which Corineus, after his victory, 
 dragged the body of Goemot to the 
 edge of the cliff, whence he flung it 
 into the sea, were pointed out very 
 recently. Mr. Rowe, in his ‘ Peram- 
 bulation of Dartmoor,’ has hazarded 
 a conjecture that the Hoe (or St. 
 Nicholas Island below it) was the 
 Iktis of Diodorus Siculus, from which 
 tin was anciently shipped. With 
 more certainty it was the point of the 
 English coast from which the Armada 
 was first descried (the tradition runs 
 that Sir Francis Drake and the other 
 sea captains were playing bowls here 
 when the news of the great fleet’s 
 approach was brought to them ; see 
 the brilliant picture in Kingsley’s 
 ‘Westward Hoi’) and on the anni- 
 versary of that day it was long the 
 custom for the mayor and corpo- 
 ration of Plymouth to wear their 
 “ scarlet,” and to treat their visitors 
 with cake and wine. It was from 
 the Hoe too that Smeaton watched 
 the progress and the safety of his 
 lighthouse on the Eddystone. “After 
 a rough night at sea his sole thought 
 
 was of his lighthouse There 
 
 were still many who persisted in 
 asserting that no building erected of 
 stone could possibly stand upon the 
 Eddystone ; and again and again 
 
118 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 the engineer, in the dim grey of the 
 morning, would come out and peer 
 through his telescope at his deep-sea 
 lamp-post. Sometimes he had to 
 wait long, until he could see a tall 
 white pillar of spray shoot up into 
 the air. Thank God ! it was still 
 safe. Then, as the light grew, he 
 could discern his building, temporary 
 house and all, standing firm amidst 
 the waters ; and thus far satisfied, he 
 could proceed to his workshops, his 
 mind relieved for the day." — Smiles' 
 ‘ Lives of the Engineers/ i. 43. 
 
 *St. Andrew's Church stands at the 
 corner of Bedford Street. A ch. was 
 built here at an early period by the 
 Augustinians of Plympton, to whom 
 this part of the town belonged. 
 It was rebuilt, like most of the 
 Devonshire churches, during the 
 Perp. period, and no part of the 
 present structure is older than 1430. 
 The tower was built about 1460, 
 when, says Leland, “ one Thomas 
 Yogge, a marchant of Plymmouthe, 
 paid for makynge of the steeple. 
 The towne paid for the stuffe." 
 This tower is fine, and the arrange- 
 ment of the pinnacles very good. 
 The nave and aisles are lofty, and 
 extend to the E. end, producing the 
 usual west-country triple chancel. 
 Much has been done to this ch. of 
 late years, but the interior is not 
 satisfactory. It is still crowded by 
 pews and galleries. The interior of 
 the tower has been restored ; and a 
 good new pulpit erected from the de- 
 signs of Mr. Hine. A proper restora- 
 tion and refitting is (1872) under 
 discussion. Into this ch., during 
 service, the news was brought of 
 the return of Sir Francis Drake 
 from his voyage round the world, 
 when all the congregation hastened 
 to the pier to welcome him. Here 
 Charles II. touched for the king's 
 evil ; and here Dr. Johnson in 1762 
 listened to a sermon written ex- 
 pressly for his edification by Dr. 
 Zachary Mudge. Chantrey's fine bust 
 of this vicar of St. Andrew’s, who 
 
 was eulogized by Johnson as “a 
 man equally eminent for his vir- 
 tues and abilities, at once beloved 
 as a companion, and reverenced as 
 a pastor," is at the end of the S. 
 aisle. The bust was taken from a 
 portrait by Reynolds. The body of 
 Blake (who died in, the harbour, 
 1656) was embalmed at Plymouth, 
 and his heart buried in this ch. “ by 
 the Mayor's seat doore." Among 
 other monuments, remark those of 
 Sir John Skelton, Lieut.-Governor of 
 Plymouth, 1672; Dr. Woolcombe, 
 d. 1822, by Westmacott ; Mrs. Ros- 
 dew, by Chantrey ; and a tablet in 
 the S. aisle for Charles Matthews, 
 the comedian, who died at Plymouth 
 in 1835. Under the chancel is a 
 crypt, which is said to communicate 
 with a 15th-centy. building on the S. 
 side of the ch., called “ the Abbey." 
 Of the history of this building no- 
 thing is known. It may have been 
 connected with Plympton Priory, to 
 which St. Andrew’s belonged. The 
 ch.yard of St. Andrew has been 
 greatly improved since 1860 ; and 
 fitting approaches have been made 
 to the ch. and to the new Guildhall 
 (see post). Altogether this is now 
 one of the handsomest quarters of 
 Plymouth. Since 1640 the parish 
 has been divided, and a part of it 
 appended to — 
 
 * Charles' Church , erected 1646-58, 
 and consecrated by Bp. Seth Ward, 
 in 1664, in the name of King 
 “Charles the Martyr." It has a light 
 and elegant spire, and is a remark- 
 ably good building for its time. 
 
 Some old flags, said to have be- 
 longed to the train bands of the town 
 at the time of the siege, were formerly 
 kept in this ch,, but have now disap- 
 peared. Near the altar were buried 
 Captains Kerby and Wade — shot on 
 the day of their arrival in the Sound, 
 April 16, 1703, for cowardice in Ben- 
 bow's action with Du Casse. 
 
 The other Churches in Plymouth 
 are entirely modern, and call for 
 little notice. The R. C. ‘pro-Cathe- 
 
119 
 
 Devonshire. Route 7.— Plymouth : Public Buildings . 
 
 dral * in Cecil Street makes, with its 
 surrounding buildings, a picturesque 
 group. It is of E. E. character. The 
 architects were Messrs. Hanson, of 
 Clifton. The piers in the choir are 
 of polished limestone ; those in the 
 nave of polished granite. The tower 
 and spire are 200 ft. in height. The 
 Independents have built a large and 
 striking chapel, called Shenuett Chapel , 
 in the Tavistock Road (designers, 
 Paul and Ayliffe). Out of the town, 
 on the brow of Townsend Hill, is the 
 Western College (Independent), de- 
 signed by Mr. Hine, and very good. 
 
 Of ancient buildings in Plymouth, 
 beside the churches, there are few 
 relics. In the Ch. of the Carmelites, 
 in Breton Side (of which an arch 
 and a few low walls only remain), 
 some sittings of the Commissioners 
 were held during the “ Scrope and 
 Grosvenor” controversy in 1387. 
 Palace Court , in Catte Street, shows 
 the quadrangle of what must have 
 been a fine I5th-centy. house built of 
 limestone, with massive oaken tim- 
 bers. It was built by John Painter, 
 4 times mayor ; and in it the Princess 
 Catherine of Arragon was received 
 on her first landing at Plymouth in 
 1501 (see ante). There are some good 
 Elizabethan houses in Notte Street ; 
 one of which (not to be mistaken), 
 with a long projecting window, de- 
 serves notice. It was, perhaps, built 
 by one of the Hawkinses. Hoe Gate, 
 at the head of Hoe Street, the single 
 surviving relic of the ancient fortifi- 
 cations, was pulled down in January, 
 1863. 
 
 Grouping with St. Andrew’s ch., 
 and promising to be by far the finest 
 modern building in Plymouth, is the 
 new Guildhall ’, designed by Messrs. 
 Norman and Hine. The foundation 
 was laid in July, 1870, and the work 
 is (1872), rapidly advancing. The 
 Guildhall of Elizabeth’s days was in 
 Southside Street. This was probably 
 found inconvenient; and in 1606 a 
 new Guildhall was built at the head 
 of High Street. This remained until 
 
 1800, and was a somewhat picturesque 
 building, with a clock-tower, and a 
 couple of dungeons called the Clink, 
 visited by Howard in 1774, and 
 strongly condemned by him. In 
 the panels of the hall itself were the 
 “ marks ” of the principal Plymouth 
 merchants. The building raised on 
 the same site in 1800 (and still, 1872, 
 serving as the Guildhall), is curiously 
 unsightly and inconvenient, and had 
 long been found insufficient for the 
 increased importance of the town. 
 (In it, it is worth recording, on the 
 occasion of his receiving the freedom 
 of the town, Canning delivered one 
 of his most famous speeches — that in 
 which he so vividly paints the rising 
 into life and action of a man-of-war 
 at rest in Plymouth Sound.) The 
 new Guildhall is laid out in two blocks. 
 In the southern are the Guildhall 
 and Assize-Courts; in the northern 
 the Council Chamber and Municipal 
 offices. There is to be a great tower 
 at the S.W. corner, nearly 200 ft. 
 high, and considerably overtopping 
 the tower of the neighbouring ch. 
 There will be another angle-tower, 
 100 ft. high, in the northern block. 
 The great hall, which will be the 
 finest in the west of England, is to 
 consist of a nave 58 ft. wide, with 
 aisles on either side, divided from 
 the nave by arcades of 7 bays, the 
 pillars of which are of polished gra- 
 nite. The length is 146 ft. The style 
 of the whole is “ First Pointed” 
 Gothic, but is rather Elemish than 
 “ E. Eng. and it is clear that 
 the architects had not forgotten the 
 glories of Louvain or of Ypres. The 
 Guildhall, with its lofty towers, will, 
 when completed, wonderfully change 
 the appearance of all this quarter of 
 the town. On the pinnacle of the 
 central range of offices is a statue of 
 Sir Francis Drake, by a local artist. 
 
 There are a few pictures now 
 (1872) in the old Guildhall (but of 
 course to be removed here), worth 
 notice, including a portrait of Geo. 
 IY. when Regent, by Hoppner , and a 
 
120 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 half-length of Sir Francis Drake, in 
 black, with a large ruff, and a me- 
 dallion bearing the profile of Q. Eliz. 
 It is dated 1594 — aetat. 53 — the year 
 before his death. There is a poetical 
 inscription, part of which runs, — 
 
 “ Great Drake, whose shippe about the world’s 
 wide waste 
 
 In three years did a golden girdle cast. 
 
 Who with fresh streams refresht this towne 
 that first 
 
 Though kist with waters, yet did pine for 
 thirst. 
 
 Who both a Pilot and a Magistrate 
 
 Steered in his turne the Shippe of Ply- 
 mouthe’s state.” 
 
 The allusions are to the leat of water 
 which Drake introduced (see post), 
 and to his year of mayoralty (1582), 
 w-hen he set up a compass on the 
 Hoe. 
 
 Three maces belonging to the bo- 
 rough date from the reign of Queen 
 Anne. The “ Union Cup,” of silver 
 gilt, is dated 1535, and was the gift 
 of John White, of London, haber- 
 dasher, to the mayor and his brethren, 
 “ to drink crosse one to the other at 
 their feastes and meetynges.” Haw- 
 kins, Drake, and Raleigh may have 
 “ drunk crosse ” from this cup. 
 
 The Royal Hotel (archit. Foulston 
 of Plymouth), a huge and imposing 
 structure, classical and “ Ionic,” was 
 erected by the corporation of the 
 town between the years 1811-18, at 
 a cost of 60,000/. It comprises an inn, 
 a theatre, and assembly-rooms, and is 
 situated in a good position at the end 
 of George Street, and conveniently 
 near the Rly. and the Hoe. The roof 
 and internal framework of the theatre 
 are of iron, owing to which the 
 theatre suffered little when the 
 central mass of building was greatly 
 injured by fire in January, 1863. 
 
 The Clock Tower , in the open space 
 in George Street near the Royal Ho- 
 tel, was built by the corporation in 
 1862. The clock was the gift of Mr. 
 W. Derry. 
 
 The Athenaeum, (close to the Royal 
 Hotel), was built in 1818-1819 by the 
 members of the Plymouth Institution 
 
 (Foulston, archit. The style is Do- 
 ric.) It has a valuable library and 
 museum, casts from the Elgin collec- 
 tion in the Brit. Museum, and some 
 pictures, including a portrait of Al- 
 derman Facey, said to have been 
 one of the earliest by Sir Josh. Rey- 
 nolds, and one of the late President, 
 Colonel Hamilton Smith. In the 
 hall is hung one of the pieces of 
 tapestry, representing the defeat of 
 the Armada, — the only piece saved 
 from the burning of the Houses of 
 Parliament. The hall of the building 
 is generally used as a lecture-room, 
 but occasionally for the exhibition 
 of paintings and sculpture by native 
 artists. In the museum are the roots 
 of a tree of considerable size, which 
 were found in a bog on Dartmoor. 
 The Nat . Hist . Soc. in Union Street 
 has been incorporated with the Athe- 
 nseum ; and their museum contains 
 some collections (especially one of 
 the local fish) of interest. Here too 
 have been deposited by Mr. C. Spence 
 Bate the very remarkable antiquities 
 of bronze discovered in an ancient 
 cemetery at Oreston (see Exc. / 
 from Plymouth). They consist of 
 fibulae, small knives, bracelets, frag- 
 ments of pottery, and (most notice- 
 able) of a bronze mirror, with en- 
 graved scrolls on the back — a speci- 
 men of the utmost rarity, since only 
 3 of similar character are known. 
 These relics have been described by 
 Mr. Spence Bate in the Archceoloyia, 
 vol. xl., where they are figured. Mr. 
 A. W. Franks considers them to be 
 of late Celtic origin. (See further 
 under Oreston, Exc./.) The mirrors 
 suggest those which appear on the 
 mysterious sculptured stones of Scot- 
 land. 
 
 Both Plymouth and Devonport 
 have a Mechanics' Institute, with good 
 and extensive libraries. Mr. Bolitho, 
 living at Laira, possesses an interest- 
 ing collection of birds found in the 
 neighbourhood, many of which are 
 rare. In art collections Plymouth is 
 not at present distinguished. Some 
 
. — Plymouth: Public Buildings, 121 
 
 Devonshire. Route 7 
 
 fine water-colour drawings by the 
 late J. Cook— an artist of whom De- 
 vonshire may well be proud— are in 
 the possession of Mark Grigg, Esq. 
 (Tamerton) and William Eastlake, 
 Esq. (The Brake, Horrabridge.) 
 
 The Public Library (Cornwall 
 Street), now contains the Cottonian 
 collection of books and MSS., prints 
 and drawings, paintings, bronzes, 
 and other works of art. These 
 were presented to the town in 1852, 
 by Wm. Cotton, Esq., of Highland 
 House, Ivy Bridge. The drawings 
 include nearly 300 original sketches 
 by the old Italian masters. Among 
 the paintings are 3 portraits by Rey- 
 nolds , viz. 1. of himself; 2. a profile 
 of his father, the Rev. Samuel R., 
 head-master of Plympton grammar- 
 school ; and 3. his youngest sister 
 Frances, who for a considerable time 
 presided over her brother’s house- 
 hold. (It is of Sir Joshua’s father, a 
 very absent Parson Adams/’ that 
 the story is told, how journeying 
 from Plympton on horseback, and 
 wearing “ gambadoes,’’ he arrived 
 at his friend’s house with only one. 
 The lost gambado was found in the 
 road, having dropped from the un- 
 conscious wearer’s leg.) The build- 
 ing was erected 1811, and enlarged 
 1852, for the reception of the Cot- 
 tonian collection. It is open free to 
 the public every Monday. 
 
 Plymouth and Devonport are sup- 
 plied with excellent water by leats. 
 or streams, conveyed by artificial 
 channels from Dartmoor. The Ply- 
 mouth leat winds along the hills, at a 
 gentle inclination, a course of about 
 30 m., and flows into a reservoir in 
 the northern suburb, from which it 
 is distributed. The inhabitants owe 
 this important benefit to the munifi- 
 cence of Sir Francis Drake, who, 
 when representative for Plymouth, 
 obtained an Act of Parliament autho- 
 rising him to bring the stream 
 through private property. The com- 
 pletion of the work was attended with 
 public rejoicings, and the stream, on ! 
 
 [Dev. Corn . ] 
 
 its arrival, welcomed by the firing 
 of cannon ; the mayor and members 
 of the corporation, attired in full 
 dress, going out to meet it, and ac- 
 companying it in procession as it 
 flowed into the town. The country- 
 people, however, give another version 
 of its first introduction; for they say 
 that the inhabitants, or ratherthe laun- 
 dresses, being sorely distressed for 
 water, Sir Francis Drake called for 
 his horse, and, riding into Dartmoor, 
 searched about until he had found a 
 very fine spring, when he bewitched 
 it with magical words, and, starting 
 away on the gallop, the stream fol- 
 lowed his horse’s heels into the town. 
 Plymouth leat is derived from the 
 river Meavy, about a mile above 
 Sbeepstor bridge; that of Devon- 
 port from springs N. of Prince’s 
 Town. It is to be regretted that 
 more care is not bestowed upon these 
 good gifts. The channels are ex- 
 posed to many sources of impurity ; 
 and the difference is very sensible 
 between the stream at Dartmoor and 
 at the entrance to Plymouth/ New 
 reservoirs have however been con- 
 structed at Knackersknowle and on 
 Hartley Hill. The source of the Ply- 
 mouth leat is annually visited by the 
 mayor and corporation, who there 
 drink in water “ to the pious me- 
 mory of Sir Francis Drake,” and 
 then in wine, “ May the descendants 
 of him who brought us water never 
 want wine.” It was before the con- 
 struction of the Devonport leat that 
 Dr. Johnson, during his Plymouth 
 visit in 1762, taking the side of the 
 “established” town, exclaimed, “No, 
 no, I’m against the Lockers. I’m a 
 Plymouth man. Rogues ! let them 
 die of thirst. They shall not have a 
 drop.” The “ Dockers ” had begged 
 for a supply from the Plymouth leat. 
 
 Sutton Pool , the harbour of Ply- 
 mouth, is the property of the Duchy 
 of Cornwall, but leased to a com- 
 pany. The entrance is 90 ft. wide, 
 between 2 piers called the Barbican , 
 erected in 1791-9. 
 
 G 
 
122 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 , — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 Mill Bay , on the W. of Plymouth 
 Hoe, is a larger harbour than Sutton 
 Pool, and so deep that vessels of 3000 
 tons may lie close to the pier at low 
 water. The Great Western Dock 
 Company purchased both pier and 
 harbour, and constructed, at the 
 head of the bay, the Great Western 
 Docks , of which the basin has an 
 area of 14 acres and a depth of 22 
 ft., and iron gates 80 ft. in width. 
 Within this basin is a graving-dock 
 379 ft. by 96 ft. These docks are 
 connected with the station of the S. 
 Devon and Cornwall railways. 
 
 Stonehouse is comparatively of mo- 
 dern date, and derives its name from 
 a house “ of stane and lime,” to bor- 
 row an expression from the Scottish 
 border, built by one Joel, hence 
 called of “ Stonehouse,’’ who held the 
 manor in the reign of Hen. III. 
 It contains those important govern- 
 ment establishments, the Victualling 
 Yard, the Naval Hospital, and the 
 Marine Barracks. 
 
 The Royal William Victualling Yard , 
 designed by the late Mr. Rennie, oc- 
 cupies a tongue of land at the mouth 
 of the Tamar, and was completed in 
 1835 at a cost of 1,500,000/. It is es- 
 timated to extend over 14 acres, 6 of 
 which were recovered from the sea, 
 and consists of a quadrangular pile of 
 buildings, and of spacious quays or 
 terraces, fronted by a sea-wall 1500 
 ft. in length. The plan of the struc- 
 ture may be understood at once from 
 the adjoining hill, on the summit of 
 which is a stone reservoir, supplied 
 with water from the Plymouth leat, 
 and calculated to contain 6000 tuns. 
 To provide against the failure of the 
 leat, a second reservoir has been ex- 
 cavated at Long Room, in its vici- 
 nity ; and a third at Bovisand, oppo- 
 site the eastern end of the Break- 
 water. The building presents a 
 triple frontage, of which the most 
 imposing is that facing Mount Wise. 
 This consists of a central pile, sur- 
 mounted by a clock-tower, and of two 
 detached wings, each garnished with 
 
 a lofty chimney ; the entire range of 
 buildings being constructed of granite 
 and limestone, and roofed with a 
 framework of iron. The rt. wing of 
 this frontage is appropriated to the 
 corn and baking department, the 1. 
 to the cooperage, and the central 
 part to the purposes of a general 
 storehouse. The abundance of the 
 articles here in waiting for consumers 
 is very great, but not so large as 
 formerly, owing to reductions of the 
 establishment. The buildings op- 
 posite Mt. Edgcumbe are called the 
 Clarence stores ; and on this side, at 
 Devil’s Point (Devil is said to be a 
 corruption of Duval , the name of 
 a Huguenot refugee who settled on 
 the spot), are the government stairs. 
 The front facing Stonehouse is adorn- 
 ed by a bold and sculptured archway, 
 surmounted by a colossal statue of 
 William IV. 
 
 With respect to the interior, it is 
 impossible to enumerate all its won- 
 derful contents. Steam, that great 
 ouvrier of the present day, is in every 
 department the mainspring of inces- 
 sant manufacture and conversion. In 
 one, this versatile spirit does the work 
 of a thousand bakers, and exhibits 
 such rapid and delicate manipulation 
 as to excite the admiration of the 
 beholder. The following departments 
 may be mentioned as most deserving 
 of notice : — The Bakehouse, in which 
 powerful engines grind the corn, 
 knead the dough, and spread it ready 
 to be cut into biscuits, and where 
 a sack of flour is prepared for re- 
 moval to the oven in 2^ minutes. — 
 The Cooperage, in which casks and 
 water-tanks are constructed, and kept 
 by thousands in readiness to be ship- 
 ped. — The Stores of provisions, bed- 
 ding, clothes, books, &c., where the 
 stranger will acquire definite notions 
 with regard to the expense of support- 
 ing a large body of men. — The Slaugh- 
 terhouse , so contrived that the coup de 
 grace may on an emergency be given at 
 once to 70 or 80 head of cattle, but 
 in which 12 bullocks per diem is the 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 123 
 
 Route 7 6 — Plymouth— Devonport. 
 
 average number sacrificed on the 4 
 days of the week to which the business 
 is limited. Contiguous to the slaugh- 
 terhouse are the Weighing-house , the 
 Beef-house , and a Store of Vegetables . 
 — The Quays, which are furnished 
 with cranes of enormous power, 
 where vessels load with water, which 
 is discharged into them at the rate 
 of 80 tons weight in 20 minutes, and 
 transferred from these small vessels 
 to ships in the Sound or Hamoaze at 
 the rate of 3 tons in 2 minutes. Near 
 the Victualling Yard is the headland 
 of Western King, on which a fort, 
 called the Prince of Wales’s Redoubt, 
 was erected 1849. A gravel walk, 
 with seats, commanding a fine view, 
 leads from the principal entrance of 
 the Victualling Yard round the little 
 bay to this fort. At the E. end of 
 this walk is the E. of Mount Edg- 
 cumbe’s Winter Villa — a large and 
 striking house, with arrangements 
 (including a double frontage, the 
 space between the outer and inner 
 glazing being about 4 ft.) for secur- 
 ing a southern “climate ” for invalids. 
 
 The Royal Naval Hospital is a large 
 building, conspicuous in the N. of 
 Stonehouse, and occupies an area of 
 24 acres. It dates from the French 
 war (1762), and can accommodate 
 1200 patients. 
 
 The Royal Marine Barracks are situ- 
 ated in Durnford St., Stonehouse, and 
 have been much enlarged by the 
 building of additional quarters. They 
 are now capable of accommodating 
 1500 men. The mess-room is one of 
 the finest in England, and contains 
 a good portrait of William IV. The 
 celebrated band of this division plays 
 every Saturday afternoon on the Ply- 
 mouth Hoe, and occasionally during 
 the winter months, in the mess-room. 
 Visitors and friends are admitted by 
 tickets from the officers. 
 
 Devonport is the youngest of the 
 3 great towns. The principal part of 
 it is of recent growth, but the heart 
 of the place dates from the reign of 
 Will. III., when the dockyard was 
 
 first established. The town is situ- 
 ated within the old parish of Stoke 
 Damarell, the ch. of which is near 
 the military hospital ; and before 
 the formation of the dockyard there 
 were hardly 20 houses in the parish, 
 The most important being a “fair 
 mansion ” built by the lord of the 
 manor, Sir Thomas Wise, about the 
 year 1620, on the eminence still 
 known as Mount Wise. The im- 
 portance of Hamoaze as a harbour 
 had been recognized by Raleigh ; and 
 when Charles II. visited Plymouth 
 in 1677, it was with the object of 
 either improving two small repairing 
 yards which then existed in Cat- 
 water, or of forming a new yard in 
 Hamoaze. This was not done, how- 
 ever, until after the accession of 
 William III. ; and the new esta- 
 blishment was long regarded with 
 great jealousy and dislike by the 
 inhabitants of Plymouth. “ Devon- 
 port is the youngest but one of the 
 great naval arsenals of this country. 
 Woolwich, the oldest (closed 1869), 
 was of some extent in 1509; and 
 Deptford (also closed 1869) was esta- 
 blished in 1513 ; Portsmouth ori- 
 ginated not long subsequently, also 
 in the reign of Henry VIII. ; Chat- 
 ham under Queen Elizabeth, in 1558; 
 next came Sheerness in the time of 
 Charles II. ; then Devonport ; and 
 finally Pembroke — established at 
 Milford Haven in 1790, and removed 
 to its present position in 18 10.” — 
 Worth’s Hist, of Devonport. The dock- 
 yard at first covered 5 acres ; it now 
 covers about 96, and the government 
 establishments connected with the 
 town occupy in all about 350 acres. 
 The entire parish contains 2380 acres. 
 The town of course grew up in con- 
 nection with the dockyard, and at 
 the back of it. Until the year 1824, 
 it was known as “Dock,” or “Ply- 
 mouth Dock ;” but it then repudiated 
 the vassalage implied by that name, 
 and received the title which now 
 designates it as the leading maritime 
 town in Devonshire. It should be 
 G 2 
 
124 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 remarked, however, that the dock- 
 yard itself was called “ Plymouth 
 Yard” until 1843; in which year 
 the Queen visited the town, and 
 granted a request that the yard 
 should thenceforth be known by its 
 proper name. From the middle of the 
 last centy., Devonport has steadily 
 increased in importance and extent ; 
 and whereas the rateable value of 
 the parish in 1750 did not reach 
 4000/., in 1869 it was 74,976/. The 
 supply of water for the growing 
 population was at first a difficulty. 
 The corporation of Plymouth refused 
 to grant aid from their leat (see ante , 
 Plymouth). £o important was a good 
 rainfall in those early days, that the 
 saying arose, “ A Plymouth rain is 
 a Dock fair.” It was not until 1 795 
 that a leat, bringing water from 
 Dartmoor (it is derived from the 
 Blackbrook, an affluent of the Dart), 
 was cut for the separate supply of 
 Devonport. It is 37 m. in length. 
 The communication between “Dock” 
 and Plymouth was Ions very imper- 
 fect. Stonehouse bridge was not 
 finished until 1773; and the “turn- 
 pike road ” between the two places 
 not until some time after 1 784. The 
 Union Road, through what were then 
 “the Marshes” was opened in 1815. 
 Devonport did not return members to 
 Parliament until after the Reform 
 Act of 1 832. 
 
 The Dockyard is of course the most 
 interesting object in Devonport ; Key- 
 liam Yard may be regarded as part 
 of it. Other places and buildings to 
 be noticed are, Mount Wise , the Town 
 Hall , and the Mechanics' Institute. 
 
 The* Dockyard (hours of admittance 
 are the working hours of the yard : 
 observing that the yard is closed 
 from 12 to 1 in winter, and from 12 
 to J past 1 in summer, except on 
 Saturdays , when the workmen remain 
 at their work during the usual din- 
 ner-hour, and leave the yard at 3 
 p.m. It is then closed altogether). 
 This vast manufactory of war-ships, 
 and all their complicated gear, arose, 
 
 as has been said, in the reign of 
 Will. III., from which time it has 
 advanced by slow but certain steps 
 to the rank it now holds as one of 
 the finest arsenals in the world. It 
 affords employment at the present 
 time (including the steam factory 
 at Keyliam) to 3500 persons, and 
 covers an extent of ground along 
 the shore of Hamoaze of about 96 
 acres, which on the land side is pro- 
 tected by a high wall. All persons, 
 except foreigners (who must obtain 
 an order from the Admiralty), are 
 allowed, under the guidance of a 
 policeman, to make the tour of the 
 establishment. The visitor, having 
 entered the gates, has the Police 
 Offices on his rt., the Chapel , and Pay 
 Office in front, and the Surgery on 
 his 1. In the rear of the pay office 
 is a large room where the workmen 
 of the yard are paid weekly. Their 
 wages amount to between 2000/. and 
 3000/. ; but so perfect are the ar- 
 rangements, that not only is every 
 man paid individually, but the time 
 occupied by the whole affair does not 
 exceed 20 min. The admiral and 
 principal officers are always present 
 during payment. The visitor is im- 
 mediately conducted down a paved 
 avenue, and turning to the 1. passes 
 along the Bow (the residences of the 
 dockyard authorities) to a flight of 
 steps which lead at once into the 
 busy parts of the yard. He will there 
 find ample exercise for his attention, 
 while contemplating on every side the 
 most colossal works and ingenious 
 processes. The principal curiosities 
 may be classed under the following 
 heads:— The New North Dock t exca- 
 vated from the solid rock in 1789, for 
 the reception of vessels with their 
 masts standing; its dimensions being, 
 length 234 ft., width of entrance 64 
 ft., depth over sill at high water 20 ft. 
 George III. visited the yard while 
 this dock was in progress, and, “ ob- 
 serving that the planned dimensions 
 had been exceeded, asked the reason 
 why. The reply was, that the dock 
 
125 
 
 Devonshire. Route 7. — Devonport : Dockyard. 
 
 had been designed to take the longest 
 vessels then in the English fleet — 
 the Queen Charlotte and Royal George ; 
 but, that as the French were building 
 at Toulon a much larger ship than 
 either, the dock had been altered for 
 her reception. Oddly enough, this 
 impudent bit of brag was justified 
 by the result, — that very ship, the 
 Commerce de Marseille , 120 guns and 
 2747 tons, being the first that en- 
 tered the dock in question.” — Worth's 
 Devonport. Adjoining this dock are 
 a smithery, and workshops of plumb- 
 ers, stonemasons, and bricklayers.— 
 The Engineer and Millwright .Depart- 
 ment, in which metal is worked by 
 steam-power with almost as much 
 facility as wood. Here are lathes 
 for turning iron, and machines for 
 shaping it into screws and bolts ; and 
 for planing, punching, shearing, and 
 drilling it. Among those for cutting 
 wood are circular and segment saws, 
 turning-lathes, and an instrument for 
 cutting trenails. The machinery 
 here, however, has been much di- 
 minished since so much of the en- 
 gineer’s work has been done at Key- 
 ham Y ard. The Mast-house and Basins , 
 where the masts and spars (so aston- 
 ishing to landsmen) of ships laid up 
 “in ordinary” are stowed or kept 
 afloat. In their vicinity are the North 
 Dock — originally 197 ft. long, and 
 reconstructed on an enlarged scale 
 in 1854, to accommodate the largest 
 men-of-war then known ; owing to 
 the alteration in the build of vessels, 
 it is now too short for the larger 
 class of frigates — the Admiral’s 
 Stairs, the Double Dock and the 
 Basin. The Basin was reconstructed 
 in 1854, and is now used for fitting, 
 &c., vessels of a large size. Here 
 also are kilns, in which planks to be 
 curved are steam-boiled; and vast 
 stores of rigging and sails : and here 
 also the visitor should give a share of 
 his attention to the sea-wall, from 
 which he will observe the guard- 
 ship Impregnable , and the training- 
 ship for boys— the Implacable. At 
 
 the foot of St. John’s Lake, on the 
 opposite shore, lies the gunner ship 
 Cambridge , from which daily practice 
 is carried on, besides occasional prac- 
 tice with torpedoes, See. (A trip to 
 these ships will repay the visitor, and 
 admission is freely given any day 
 except Saturdays.) Beyond the N. 
 Dock is the Camber, a canal 60 ft. 
 wide, running far up the yard, and 
 adjoining the Anchor Wharf. This 
 canal is used for the purpose of dis- 
 charging stores from the vessels in 
 which they are brought to the yard ; 
 to expedite which, hydraulic cranes 
 (Armstrong’s) are fitted along it. At 
 the end of it is an incline, on which 
 boats are hauled up for repair ; and 
 above the canal, at the higher end, is 
 a large boat-store, in which boats of 
 all sizes are stored, being lifted from 
 the water into the store through 
 a trap door in the floor, and car- 
 ried to their allotted berths by 
 travelling cranes. Here also may 
 be seen boats stored with Clifford’s 
 and Kynaston’s apparatus, by which 
 they may be safely and instantly 
 lowered from a ship’s side in the 
 roughest weather. 
 
 Near the boat-shed are the new 
 Smithery and Saw-mills , the former 
 containing every facility for the 
 working of iron (anchors are no 
 longer made here), and the latter 
 some beautiful machinery for sawing 
 wood, as well as a planing machine. 
 
 On the site of the Double Dock 
 (built 1717 and 1753 for the recep- 
 tion of line-of-battle ships) there has 
 been constructed one long dock to 
 accommodate the largest class of 
 war-ships now known, deep enough 
 to allow of their' being docked every 
 day in the year. Some idea of the 
 difference between the vessels known 
 as “men-of-war” 100 years since 
 and now, may be gathered from the 
 fact that the new dock is longer than 
 the united length of the 2 former 
 docks, each of which has accommo- 
 dated line-of-battle ships. 
 
 The Rope-houses , two buildings, 
 
126 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7. — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 each 1200 ft. long, in which the 
 largest rope cables are made. All 
 kinds of rope and line are made 
 here, from the smallest fishing-line 
 to the largest cable. The yarn is 
 spun by machinery, which has been 
 erected at a great cost. There are 
 about 60 spindles (driven by a power- 
 ful engine) at work — the whole of 
 which are attended by girls, men 
 only now being employed for laying 
 up the yarn into cables and ropes. 
 This spinning of yarn, lines, and 
 twine affords employment to about 
 1 30 girls. They are placed in charge 
 of a matron ; and every girl before 
 proceeding to work divests herself 
 of superfluous garments (for fear of 
 accidents), appearing in a uniform, 
 consisting of a brown-holland gown 
 and cap. The classes in which they 
 are serving (and by which their pay 
 is regulated) are indicated on the 
 sleeve of the gown by red stripes. 
 Their wages range from 7s. 6d. to 
 10s. 6d. a week. A dining-room and 
 lavatory are provided. Admission 
 is not given to this ropery except by 
 permission of the Admiral Superin- 
 tendent ; but this should be obtained 
 if possible, as, at present, this is one 
 of the most interesting portions of 
 the yard. — The Mould Loft (to be 
 seen only by express permission), 
 where plans are prepared of ships 
 intended to be built. — King's Kill , an 
 oasis in this hard-featured scene, and 
 preserved from being levelled like the 
 ground around it at the wish of Geo. 
 III., who was pleased with its com- 
 manding position when he visited De- 
 vonport. — Lastly, the 5 great Building 
 Slips , protected from the weather by 
 enormous sheds. These are now but 
 little used, except for the smaller 
 class of vessels. Our large iron-clads 
 are built by contract. 
 
 The Gun Wharf (begun 1718, 
 finished about 1725; Sir John Van- 
 burgh was the architect) is situated 
 to the N. of the dockyard, and is the 
 depot for munitions of war. Cannon 
 and other destructive engines are 
 
 here grouped in formidable array, 
 and a large store of small-arms is 
 artistically arranged in the various 
 buildings. This wharf has lately 
 been enlarged ; the old trench of 
 some fortifications to the N. being 
 turned into a dock, and a new 
 factory built, finished in 1867. To 
 complete his survey of the arsenal, 
 the stranger should also visit 
 
 * Key ham Yard, which forms, in fact, 
 an integral portion of the Dockyard, 
 though from some unintelligible 
 cause (probably an ill-judged and very 
 costly economy) it is separated from 
 it by the Ordnance Stores, the town 
 fortifications, and part of the towns 
 of Devonport and New Passage. The 
 inconvenience arising from this has 
 to a small extent been obviated by 
 the construction at a great cost of a 
 tunnel nearly | m. long, connecting 
 the two establishments and the gun- 
 wharf. Keyham is also connected 
 with the Cornwall rly. by a short 
 branch starting from near Western 
 Mill Creek. 
 
 Keyham Yard contains the steam- 
 factory, now used for the repair of 
 steam machinery and .the construc- 
 tion and repair of boilers ; and em- 
 ploying ordinarily from 600 to 700 
 men. It is, however, as yet in its 
 infancy, and could conveniently af- 
 ford space and machinery for the 
 employment of many times that num- 
 ber. The Steam-Docks here are by 
 far the most extensive in the king- 
 dom, being one-third larger than 
 those at Woolwich. Altogether, the 
 large floating basin, and great amount 
 of dock accommodation for the larger 
 class of vessels, besides the conveni- 
 ence arising from the vicinity of the 
 steam factory, make this the most 
 important portion of the dockyard. 
 The sides of the basin and dock are 
 furnished with steam and hydraulic 
 cranes and capstans of immense power 
 for lifting boilers and other heavy 
 weights into and out of ships, and for 
 facilitating the docking and undock- 
 ing of ships. 
 
Devonshire. Route 7 .—Devonport : Keyham ; Mount Wise. 127 
 
 The factory is well supplied with 
 machinery of the best description, 
 which is being added to year by 
 year as improvements in mechanical 
 science occur. 
 
 The dockyard has witnessed nu- 
 merous disasters. The Amphion (Sept. 
 22, 1796) took fire and blew up, kill- 
 ing about 200 persons. She was ly ing 
 alongside the sheer-hulk refitting. 
 A fire in the dockyard (July, 1761) 
 broke out in 5 different places at once, 
 and destroyed property to the value 
 of nearly 50,000/. The notorious 
 “Jack the Painter ” set fire to the 
 rope-house in 1773. The greatest 
 destruction by fire occurred Sept. 27, 
 1840, when 2 men-of-war — the 4 Ta- 
 lavera’ and the 4 Xmogene/ were 
 burned, the ‘Minden 5 was greatly 
 injured, and 44 a fine collection of 
 naval and other relics, including the 
 figure-heads and other remains of 
 many of our most famous vessels — 
 the favourite ships of Boscawen, 
 Rodney, Duncan, and other naval 
 heroes ” was entirely destroyed. — 
 Worth? 's Devonport . 
 
 The Government has purchased 
 the whole of the land from Keyham 
 to the Western Mill Lake, facing 
 Hamoaze ; and there is no doubt 
 that this in time will be converted 
 into docks and basins. All the ex- 
 cavations from the basins already 
 made have been deposited on por- 
 tions of the mud, and much valuable 
 land has thus been reclaimed. 
 
 The visitor on leaving the dock- 
 yard may (a very little distance from 
 the main gate) avail himself of the 
 river steamers which leave the pier 
 every half-hour, and proceed up the 
 Hamoaze, passing through the line 
 of ships in reserve, which lie there. 
 He may thus visit the Royal Albert 
 Bridge (see Cornwall, Rte. 23), 
 returning by rail to Devonport or 
 Plymouth (over the bridge) ; or he 
 may return by the steamer. 
 
 (For the steam-ferry between 
 Devonport and Torpoint, see Corn- 
 wall, Rte. 23.) 
 
 The next object within the limits 
 of the town most worthy the atten- 
 tion of the stranger is 
 
 Mount Wise— -so called from a 
 family of that name, formerly lords 
 of the manor of Stoke DamerelL 
 Devonport is essentially a military 
 station, containing very large bar- 
 racks, and protected on the land 
 side by lines of defence, and seaward 
 by a chain of batteries ; and Mount 
 Wise is the arena on which its de- 
 fenders are sometimes marshalled in 
 review. (The evolutions of troops 
 are now generally performed in the 
 Buckfield, outside the fortifications, 
 between Devonport and Stoke.) This 
 hill is, however, principally noted for 
 the beauty of the prospect, and its ex- 
 cellence as a promenade. On the sum- 
 mit is a semaphore, which communi- 
 cates with the guard-ship by sign- 
 boards, and with the Admiralty by 
 electricity ; and the stranger will 
 generally have the opportunity of 
 beholding its pictorial language hung 
 forth and shifted for the direction of 
 some bark in the offing. This tele- 
 graph was the last of a chain of 32 
 stations constructed about 1810, be- 
 tween London and Devonport. It is 
 said that by this means a message 
 has been sent to London, and an 
 answer received in a quarter of an 
 hour. By the side of the parade 
 are the residences of the Lieutenant- 
 Governor of the garrison and the 
 Port Admiral ; and at its eastern end 
 a large brazen cannon, taken from the 
 Turks at the Dardanelles by Sir J ohn 
 Duckworth. The bronze statue of 
 Field-Marshal Lord Seaton was 
 erected in 1866., Near the Sema- 
 phore is (or was) a camera obscura, 
 in which the visitor may study the 
 surrounding scenery in miniature ; 
 and below, by the waterside, the 
 Royal Clarence Baths , by which a 
 pleasant walk leads round the base of 
 the hill by Stonehouse Pool. Mount 
 Wise bristles with cannon command- 
 ing the entrance of Hamoaze, 
 
128 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 The landward defences of Devon- 
 port, rendered necessary by the great 
 importance of the dockyard, were 
 begun in 1756. The lines, which 
 extend from the steam-ferry across 
 Hamoaze to Stonehouse Pool, were 
 at first very inefficient. They were 
 improved in 1783 by the aid of 1000 
 Cornish miners, brought up by Lord 
 de Dunstanville, but were still in- 
 different ; and in 1810 the works were 
 begun which now encircle the town 
 on the land side. They were sus- 
 pended in 1816, having been, it is 
 said, condemned by the Duke of 
 Wellington. In 1853 the work on 
 them was renewed, and they were 
 completed as an inner line of de- 
 fence — the outer being the chain of 
 fortifications recommended by the 
 Royal Commission of 1860, extending 
 from Tregantle on one side to Staddon 
 Heights on the other. The fortifi- 
 cations on Mount Wise were also 
 strengthened and improved at this 
 time. 
 
 The barracks at the back of the 
 lines were begun in 1757, and at 
 first formed 6, afterwards 8 squares 
 of small buildings. Except a very 
 small fragment all these old barracks 
 were swept away between 1854 and 
 1858; and a very extensive series 
 of buildings, called the Raglan Bar- 
 racks , occupy their site. They at 
 once attract the attention of all 
 visitors who approach Devonport 
 from Stonehouse. The entrance 
 gateway was designed by the late 
 Capt. Fowke, R.E., who planned the 
 Exhibition building at Kensington 
 in 1862. The barracks, which will 
 accommodate 2 complete battalions, 
 are fitted up, with most of the 
 modern improvements for soldiers’ 
 comforts. The parade-ground is 
 extensive. There is a gymnasium 
 for the use of officers and men. 
 
 The Town Hall (archit. Foulston, 
 of Plymouth) was begun in 1821, 
 and finished in the following year. 
 It is a very good classic build- 
 ing, and contains portraits of George 
 
 I. , II., III., William IV. (by Drake), 
 Queen Victoria and the Prince Con- 
 sort (by Lane , after Winterhalter), 
 Queen Charlotte, Queen Caroline, 
 Sir Edward Codrington (by Pattie- 
 son ), and the late Sir John St. Aubyn, 
 lord, of the manor, by whom the 
 ground for the hall was given. 
 There are also here an historical pic- 
 ture by Opie and a good cabinet of 
 minerals, presented by Sir J. St. 
 Aubyn. 
 
 The Mechanic s’ Institute (the oldest 
 in this country) was established in 
 1825 ; but it had no fixed abode 
 until 1 843-4, when the present build- 
 ing was begun (A. Norman, archit.). 
 The remaining portion, in which is 
 a large hall, was finished in 1850. 
 The Civil and Military Library, 
 formerly in Ker Street, was then 
 amalgamated with that of the Insti- 
 tute, which now consists of about 
 
 II, 000 vols. 
 
 The Devonport Column , a Doric 
 pillar of granite 125 ft. high (Foul- 
 ston, archit.), was erected in 1824 at 
 a cost of 2750/., to commemorate 
 the change of name from Dock to 
 Devonport. There is a very fine 
 view from the top. 
 
 The Public Park , formed 1858, out 
 of the N. E. glacis of the fortifica- 
 tions, commands fine views. In it is 
 a fountain designed as a memorial 
 of Sir Charles Napier.. 
 
 The Military Hospital , near Stoke 
 Ch., was erected in 1797, and con- 
 sists of five detached blocks con- 
 nected by a colonnade. The Royal 
 Albert Hospital (archit. A. Norman) 
 was begun in 1861, and cost 30,000/. 
 without its fittings. 
 
 The Churches in Devonport are of 
 no very great interest. Stoke Ch. is 
 of course the most ancient, and the 
 mother ch. of the town ; but it con- 
 tains nothing very noticeable. The 
 register records the marriage of 
 Bamfylde Moore Carew, the famous 
 king of the beggars. In 1846, under 
 Order in Council, four new parishes 
 were taken out of Stoke Damerell. 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 7 . — Plymouth Sound. 129 
 
 The churches of these parishes — St. 
 Stephen’s, St. James’s, St. Paul’s, 
 and St. Mary’s— were all designed 
 by Mr. J. P. St. Aubyn, and are all 
 good. 
 
 The most agreeable and fashion- 
 able residences are in Higher Stoke , 
 and the stranger should make a point 
 of visiting the summit of Stoke Hill, 
 where an old Blockhouse, known as 
 “the Pattypan,” stood before it was 
 destroyed by fire in 1855. The view 
 from the site is very delightful, and 
 embraces every object of interest in 
 the surrounding country. 
 
 Such is a brief account of the 3 
 great towns of the West. With re- 
 spect to the excursions which should 
 be taken in their neighbourhood, 
 proper objects for them are to be 
 found in every direction ; but those 
 worthy of the front rank, to which 
 we must confine ourselves, may be 
 enumerated as follows : — 
 
 The Breakwater and Bovisand ; 
 Mount Edgcumbe ; the Royal Albert 
 Bridge (Rte. 23) ; the Tamar to the 
 Weir-head ; the Oreston Quarries; 
 Bickleigh Vale ; Cann Quarry; and 
 the Valley of the Plym or Cad. The 
 excursion to Rame Head, and round 
 the shore of Whitsand Bay to Tre- 
 gantle Fort, should also be men- 
 tioned. 
 
 The visitor to Plymouth should, 
 however, be first made acquainted 
 with 
 
 (a) The Sound. This magnificent 
 roadstead, so well known as a station 
 for our navy, has been often de- 
 scribed as the most beautiful bay on 
 the English coast; and the stranger 
 entering it from the Channel on a 
 sunny serene day will probably ac- 
 knowledge that there are grounds 
 for the eulogy. Here “ the land,” 
 says Risdon, “shrinketh back to 
 give way for the ocean’s entertain- 
 ment of Tamar, which cometh gal- 
 loping to meet her, almost from the 
 Severn Sea.” The shores rise in 
 
 hills of from 100 to 400 ft. in height, 
 varied by woods and villages, and 
 margined with rocks. On the N. 
 are the towns of Plymouth, Stone- 
 house, and Devonport, with some 
 minor bays and creeks, and the fine 
 harbours of Hamoaze and Catwater ; 
 and the eye ranges from those busy 
 Scenes and watery vistas over hill and 
 dale to the heights of Dartmoor. 
 The Sound is about 3 m. in width 
 and the same in length, and covers 
 at high water an area of 4500 acres. 
 At its mouth it is bounded by Penlee 
 Point (W.), and Wembury Point and 
 the shaggy Mewstone (E.) ; or, fur- 
 ther seaward by the Rame Head 
 (W.) and Stoke Point (E.) ; the 
 distance between the 2 last-men- 
 tioned headlands being 8^ m. It 
 receives the tribute of 2 rivers, the 
 Tamar and Plym ; the estuary of 
 the first forming the harbour of 
 Hamoaze, and that of the other the 
 Catwater, both of these estuaries 
 branching into a watery labyrinth 
 of creeks and inlets. The Isle of St. 
 Nicholas , or Drake's Island , a bold 
 pyramidal rock, strongly fortified and 
 garrisoned, stands at the entrance of 
 the Tamar [here the republican Ge- 
 neral Lambert ended his days a pri- 
 soner (1683), having been confined 
 on the island since 1667. He was 
 brought to this place from Guern- 
 sey ; and amused himself by painting 
 flowers, and by working problems 
 in algebra. A fellow r -prisoner with 
 him, for a short time, was James 
 Harington, author of the once well- 
 known ‘Oceana’]; and the Mew- 
 stone gives a finish to the eastern 
 horn of the bay. The most striking 
 feature, however, in a general view 
 of the Sound, is the park of Mount 
 Edgcumbe, the seat of the noble 
 family of that name, which, com- 
 prising the lofty hills on the western 
 shore, presents a varied expanse of 
 foliage, broken by tall red-stemmed 
 pine-trees descending to the water’s 
 edge. 
 
 G 3 
 
130 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
 As a roadstead, Plymouth Sound 
 was long found inconvenient, from 
 its exposure to southerly gales ; but 
 this is now remedied by the erection 
 of an outlying barrier, which, break- 
 ing the force of the waves as they are 
 driven in from the Channel, converts 
 the entire Sound into a harbour. This 
 outlying barrier is the well-known 
 
 (6) Breakwater , a work which ori- 
 ginated in the suggestion of our great 
 Admiral, Earl St. Vincent. It dates 
 its rise from 1806, when Earl Grey 
 was First Lord of the Admiralty. 
 The late Mr. Rennie, being then 
 instructed to survey the Sound, 
 and report upon the best means of 
 rendering it a secure anchorage, ad- 
 vised that a detached mole should 
 be formed at the mouth of the 
 Sound, where nature pointed out 
 the site for such an erection by a 
 string of shoals called the Panther, 
 Tinker, Shovel, and St. Carlos Rocks, 
 on each side of which the channel 
 was deep, and sufficiently wide to 
 afford a safe passage for vessels. 
 As to the mode of construction, 
 he proposed that rubble , or rough 
 angular blocks of stone, from 2 to 
 10 tons weight and upwards, mixed 
 with smaller materials, should be 
 cast into the sea, when the waves 
 would arrange them in the shape best 
 calculated to resist the action of the 
 breakers. In fact, the shoals were to 
 be raised to a height sufficient to ar- 
 rest the undulation of the sea. The 
 mole was to consist of 3 arms, or 
 kants , inclining towards each other at 
 an angle of 120°; thus giving the 
 structure a curved form, which it was 
 considered would prevent the too 
 great accumulation of the waves on 
 the outside, and offer the least im- 
 pediment to the current. The total 
 length was to be 1700 yds., and the 
 whole was to be raised to the level of 
 half- tide. The estimated cost was 
 1,055,200^., and the quantity of stone 
 that would be required 2,000,000 tons. 
 It was suggested also that a subsidiary 
 
 pier should be thrown out from the 
 shore. Mr. Rennie’s proposal, how- 
 ever, lay dormant for several years, 
 and other plans were, in the interim, 
 offered to the Admiralty : such as to 
 construct piers at different points ; to 
 moor 117 triangular floating frames 
 in the desired direction ; to sink on 
 the shoals 140 wooden towers with 
 stones in a double line (Gen. Bent- 
 ham’s) ; or to connect these cones 
 with a superstructure, so as to form 
 an open-arched mole, similar to those 
 of Tyre and Athens. Valid objec- 
 tions were, ho wever, found to all these 
 proposed works, and it was finally 
 determined to adopt the plan of Mr. 
 Rennie, who received the order for 
 carrying it into execution in June, 
 
 1811. A lease of 25 acres of lime- 
 stone, at Oreston on the Catwater, 
 was purchased for 10,000£. of the 
 Duke of Bedford ; and in March, 
 
 1812, operations commenced by open- 
 ing the quarries, laying rails, building 
 wharves, and making other prepara- 
 tions for the transport of the stone. 
 The flotilla to be engaged in this work 
 consisted of 10 vessels, each of 80 
 tons, provided with a line of rails on 
 the deck and in the hold, and of 45 
 sloops of smaller size. On the 12th 
 of Aug. the first and centre stone was 
 laid on the Shovel Rock ; and on the 
 30th of March of the following year 
 the work made its appearance above 
 the level of low-water spring tides, 
 43,789 tons of stone having been de- 
 posited. By August following it had 
 advanced so far that labourers could 
 be employed upon it ; and in March, 
 1814, it stood the trial of a storm, 
 and resisted successfully the heavy 
 southerly seas, a large French three- 
 decker riding out the gale in safety 
 under its lee. In this year the ori- 
 ginal plan was modified, and it was de- 
 termined to raise the structure to the 
 level of 2 ft. above high-water mark, 
 spring tides. In 1816 the largest 
 annual amount of stone was deposited, 
 viz. 332,407 tons. In the winter of 
 the following year a furious hurricane 
 
Route 7 . — Plymouth Breakwater . 
 
 131 
 
 # Devonshire. 
 
 displaced 200 yds. of the upper rub- 
 ble, removing it from the sea-slope to 
 the northern side. The effect, how- 
 ever, was to increase the stability of 
 the work, the waves having thus 
 formed their own slope, or the angle 
 of repose at which the blocks would 
 lie undisturbed by storms. It is to be 
 remarked that this action of the waves 
 was exerted only from the level of 
 low-water upwards. The original 
 slope had been 3 ft. horiz. to 1 perp., 
 and it was now flattened to 5 to 1, or 
 11°, an alteration recommended by 
 Mr. Rennie when it was resolved to 
 raise the height of the structure. 
 Upon this occasion the Jasper sloop 
 of war and Telegraph schooner, which 
 had anchored outside the protection 
 of the Breakwater, were driven ashore 
 and wrecked with a melancholy loss 
 of life. 
 
 In 1821 Mr. Kennie died, and the 
 Admiralty consulted his son Sir 
 John Rennie and three other engi- 
 neers upon the best mode of complet- 
 ing the work ; who advised that the 
 sea and land slopes should be respec- 
 tively at angles of 11° and 26° ; that 
 the sea-slope should be strengthened 
 by dovetailed courses of granite, and 
 the top paved, reduced in width, 
 curved, and its central line removed 
 36 ft. further inland. Upon the plan 
 thus amended the work was carried 
 on; but such difficulties were expe- 
 rienced in its progress towards the 
 west, where the water was deep, and 
 the roll of the sea more impetuous, 
 that Sir John Rennie proposed that 
 a foreshore , or platform of rubble, 
 should be raised in advance of the 
 sea-slope to the level of 2 ft. above 
 low-water mark ; this foreshore to be 
 50 ft. wide at the western end, and to 
 decrease to 30 ft. at its eastern termi- 
 nation. To this the Admiralty ac- 
 ceded, and the foreshore has proved 
 a complete protection, tripping up the 
 heavy seas before they can reach the 
 slope. The plan of the western arm 
 was also at this time amended. Its 
 
 head was to be circular, and of solid 
 dovetailed masonry ; and in the heart 
 of the pile was to be rooted the base 
 of a lighthouse, to consist of an in- 
 verted arch filled with solid courses, 
 and resting on masonry equally com- 
 pact. In 1838 this foundation had 
 been nearly completed, when the 
 work was delayed by a severe storm, 
 which carried blocks of 12 and 14 tons 
 weight from the sea to the land slope. 
 Finally, this important arm, after 
 being additionally strengthened, was 
 completed in 1840. In the following 
 year the first stone of the lighthouse, 
 designed by Messrs. Walker and 
 Burges, the engineers of the Trinity 
 House, was laid, and the structure 
 finished in 1844. It consists of a 
 circular tower, 126 ft. in height from 
 the base of the Breakwater, 71 ft. 
 above high-water mark, and 18 ft. 
 diam. over all at its broadest part. 
 It is constructed of the finest white 
 granite from the quarries of Luxu- 
 lian in Cornwall. The floors are of 
 stone and arched, but differ from 
 those of the Eddystone in forming at 
 their outer ends a part of th,e wall. 
 By this mode of construction there is 
 no lateral pressure, and some other 
 advantages are obtained. It is di- 
 vided into five stories, the highest of 
 which is the lantern with a floor of 
 polished slate. The light is on the 
 dioptric or French principle, having 
 a range of 8 m., and, as an auxiliary, 
 a large bell, which, suspended on the 
 outside, is tolled by clockwork during 
 foggy weather. The E. end of the 
 Breakwater is constructed with a cir- 
 cular head, and of solid masonry, like 
 the W., and supports a pyramidal 
 beacon of beautiful white granite, 25 
 ft. in height from the top of the 
 Breakwater, and of 20 ft. diam. at 
 its base. It is divided into 12 steps, 
 and crowned by a pole of African 
 oak 17 ft. high, supporting a hollow 
 globe of gun-metal, in which the ship- 
 wrecked mariner may take refuge. 
 This beacon was begun and finished 
 in the year 1845. 
 
132 
 
 Such is a brief account of Plymouth 
 Breakwater. Its efficacy in resisting 
 storms has been fully demonstrated, 
 and the thick coating of seaweed 
 which now covers the rubble shows 
 the perfect repose of its angular stones. 
 The depth of water in which the struc- 
 ture has been raised varies from 18 
 to 45 ft. ; the quantity of rubble de- 
 posited up to June, 1847, amounted 
 to 3,820,444 tons, and at that time it 
 was presumed that 50,000 tons more 
 would be required. The total cost on 
 the completion of the work is estimated 
 at 1,500,000/. A comparison has 
 been frequently instituted between 
 the Plymouth Breakwater and the 
 sister - work of our neighbours at 
 Cherbourg. The sections of the 
 structures are dissimilar. The con- 
 struction of the latter has, moreover, 
 been attended by very melancholy 
 casualties, which have been attributed 
 by our engineers to the small size of 
 the rubble employed. The Digue of 
 Cherbourg is, however, more than 
 double the length, as will appear 
 by the following comparative ad- 
 measurement in yards : — 
 
 Length. Breadth. Height. 
 
 Digue . . 4111 90 . . . 75 ft. * 
 
 Breakwater 1760 120 at base . 50 „ + 
 
 A casemated fort for 100 heavy 
 guns has been constructed of blocks 
 of concrete and granite, just inside 
 the Breakwater, in connection with 
 the defences of Plymouth. The lay- 
 ing of the foundation was a work of 
 extreme difficulty, and the labour of 
 months was swept away by a storm 
 on Aug. 25, 1862. The fort is one 
 of the strongest in the world. The 
 iron casemates constitute an oval ring 
 of three 5-in. laminations, in all 
 15 in. thick, of rolled metal. The 
 face only is of armour plates, the 
 other 2 layers are of narrow bars or 
 planks, crossed, so that the whole 
 structure is ruled throughout by 
 numberless joints and intersections. 
 
 * To top of parapet. 
 
 f To top of breakwater. 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 The fort is oval, 143 ft. 6 in. by 
 113 ft. 6 in. Its walls are about 
 12 ft. high. The basement is faced 
 with granite, rising more than 16 ft. 
 out of the water at high springs. 
 
 After visiting the Breakwater you 
 should land at Boris and, the water- 
 ing-place of her Majesty's ships at 
 anchor in the Sound. Here is a gra- 
 nite battery, mounting heavy guns on 
 revolving platforms, one of the new 
 forts ; and, at a distance of f m. 
 from the shore, a reservoir capable 
 of containing 12,000 tuns of water, 
 which is tapped at the surface by 
 an ingenious contrivance, and con- 
 veyed through iron pipes to the 
 Pier at Staddon Point — another work 
 by the late Mr. Rennie. Here also 
 is a picturesque vale, from which the 
 Breakwater is seen in perspective, 
 with a blue patch of sea, framed as it 
 were by the acclivities on each side 
 of the valley. It is a pleasant walk, 
 commanding very fine views, along 
 the adjacent Staddon Heights (near 
 Radford , H. B. Harris, Esq.) to Mount 
 Batten at the mouth of the Catwater, 
 which you can cross by boat to Ply- 
 mouth. Mount Batten is a pic- 
 turesque old tower, the scene of re- 
 peated skirmishes during the sieges 
 of Plymouth by the Royalists. The 
 doorway is so high above the ground 
 as to be entered by a ladder. 
 
 (c) There are few more interest- 
 ing spots in England than **Mount 
 Edgcumbe (Earl of Mount Edgcumbe), 
 which occupies the western shore 
 of the Sound ; and for the splendour 
 of its prospects, for the variety of 
 its surface, tor its groves and tasteful 
 gardens, it has been long the boast of 
 both Devon and Cornwall, in which 
 latter county it stands. The Countess 
 of Ossory observed that “ Mount Edg- 
 cumbe has the beauties of all other 
 places added to peculiar beauties of 
 its own.” On the approach to it 
 from a voyage it is seen to peculiar 
 advantage. Contrast then adds a 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . 
 
133 
 
 Devonshire. Route t. — Plymouth : Mount JEdgcumle . 
 
 charm ; and it is easy to understand 
 the feeling of the admiral of the 
 “ Invincible Armada,” who is said 
 to have resolved (but it is tolerably 
 certain that he never saw it, — cer- 
 tainly not at the time of the Armada) 
 that Mount Edgcumbe should be his 
 in the anticipated division of the 
 kingdom. By the liberality of the 
 noble owner, the park is open to the 
 public every Monday during the sum- 
 mer; and the stranger, by applying 
 at the Manor Office, E, Emma Place, 
 Stonehouse, can procure admittance 
 on other days, but he must be then 
 accompanied by a guide. Th e ferry 
 across the water is from the Ad- 
 miral’ s-hard, Stonehouse , to Cremill. 
 Those who are not able to walk may 
 send over a carriage beforehand by 
 ferry; but persons on horseback, or 
 in a carriage, can only enter at the 
 higher lodge— others are admitted 
 at the gate close to the landing- 
 place. The house is a castellated 
 building, erected in the reign of Queen 
 Mary, with a hall which, says Fuller, 
 “ yeildeth a stately sound as one 
 entereth it.” The E. front commands 
 a view of the sea through a vista of 
 trees, and the rooms contain several 
 family portraits — by Lely , the 1st Earl 
 of Sandwich, killed in the action of 
 Sole bay ; his countess ; his daughter 
 Lady Anne, and her husband Sir 
 Rich. E. ; — by Reynolds , the Hon. 
 Richard E. ; George, the 1st Lord 
 E., and his wife ; Captain E. ; and 
 Richard, Lord E., painted when the 
 artist was a boy at Plympton. There 
 are full-lengths of Charles II., James 
 II., Prince Rupert, and Will. III., 
 heads of Charles T. and the Duke 
 of Monmouth, and a small collec- 
 tion by Dutch and Italian masters. 
 Among the former are some Vander- 
 veldes , said to have been painted by 
 the artist at Mount Edgcumbe. 
 Such has always been the tradition; 
 and as one of the pictures, the 
 “ Royal Charles,” was painted to 
 the order of Sir Richard Edgcumbe, 
 it may very possibly be true. Of 
 
 this picture two sketches are also 
 preserved here, one of which has a 
 note on the back by Sir R. Edg- 
 cumbe, suggesting alterations — the 
 other shows them adopted. The 
 subjects of the other Vanderveldes 
 are Dutch ships and boats. All 
 seem to be by Esaias (the elder) 
 Vandervelde ( 1590 - 1630 ). But the 
 park and pleasure-grounds are the 
 principal attraction, and in these 
 the visitor should direct his atten- 
 tion to the following objects : — 
 The Italian, French, and English 
 Gardens : the first, with its delightful 
 terrace, orangery, and conservatory, 
 and its walks converging to a point 
 at a marble fountain ; the second, 
 with its basin and jet-d'eau, prim 
 parterres, and octagon room opening 
 into conservatories; the third, with 
 its pavilion and noble trees, including 
 the red cedar (the largest in Eng- 
 land) and cork-tree, and exem- 
 plifying rather the picturesque and 
 irregular grouping of nature than the 
 more formal skill of the gardener. 
 In the vicinity of these gardens is 
 the Blockhouse , an old fort on the 
 shore of Barnpool, dating from the 
 reign of Elizabeth ; Thomson’s Seat ; 
 the Temple of Milton ; and the Am- 
 phitheatre. a very fine recess in the 
 woods.— (High above is the White 
 Seat , near the summit of the park, 
 an alcove commanding a rare, pro- 
 spect.) — The Ruin, artificial, but 
 happily placed. — The Cottage , em- 
 bowered in creeping plants, with a 
 rustic verandah. — The Arch , adjoin- 
 ing a stone seat on the edge of a 
 precipice overlooking the Sound. — 
 The Zigzag Walks , leading down the 
 cliffs among rocks and woods, and 
 affording delicious glimpses of the 
 surrounding scenery. — Redding Point , 
 where an unbounded expanse of ocean 
 bursts upon the sight. — Picklecoombe , 
 a secluded dell, but with a formid- 
 able battery (one of the new forts) ; 
 and, lastly, the Valley of Hoe Lake , 
 and the Keeper’s Lodge , hung with 
 trophies of the chase, (All these 
 
Sect. I. 
 
 134 Ponte 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . ' 
 
 points lie along the shore, and occur 
 in succession as they are named, 
 from the Gardens to the Keeper’s 
 Lodge. The White Seat alone is 
 not on this route.) The stranger 
 should also make an excursion by 
 boat along the shore of the park 
 for a view of the rocks. He can 
 extend it to Cawsand , walk thence to 
 the Rame Head , and indulge himself 
 with a prospect over Whitesand Bay 
 and a long range of the Cornish coast. 
 (See Cornwall, Rte. 24.) He will 
 find a boat on Cremill beach , where, 
 according to the story, Reynolds 
 painted his first portrait on an old 
 sail, and with the materials of a ship- 
 wright. (On the side of the hill 
 above Cawsand is one of the new 
 forts completely commanding the 
 western entrance to Plymouth and 
 Devonport.) 
 
 From the ground near Maker Ch. 
 (and more especially from the ch. 
 tower itself), which lies at the E. 
 end of the park, the views are very 
 wide and magnificent. The three 
 towns are in front, a vast expanse of 
 sea beyond S., and landward rise the 
 heights of Dartmoor. Brent Tor, 
 near Tavistock, is visible, and the 
 rounded mass of Hingston Down on 
 the rt. bank of the Tamar. 
 
 Drake’s or St. Nicholas 9 Island is 
 
 another good point for a view of the 
 Sound. It was once crowned by a 
 chapel dedicated to St. Michael, but 
 has long been a fortress, and one of 
 the principal defences of Devonport. 
 It has been newly fortified in con- 
 nection with the line of forts. A 
 ledge of rocks, called the Bridge , 
 connects the island with the shore 
 of Mount Edgcumbe. 
 
 (d) The Tamar . This beautiful river 
 rises in the parish of Wellcombe, on 
 the extreme border of the county, near 
 the shore of the Bristol Channel, 59 m. 
 from the sea, into which it ultimately 
 falls. A trip by water to the Weir- 
 head (22 m. from the Sound) should 
 
 be an object with every visitor to 
 this neighbourhood. It can be easily 
 accomplished in a rowing-boat, on a 
 summer’s day, with the advantage of 
 the tide. A steamer plies as far as 
 Calstock, and occasionally extends 
 her voyage to Morwellham (and there 
 are frequent excursions by other 
 steamers during the summer); but 
 those who have time for the full 
 enjoyment of the excursion shoulH. 
 select a less rapid and noisy mode 
 of conveyance. Upon leaving De- 
 vonport you launch at once into 
 Hamoaze (the etymology is quite 
 uncertain), the celebrated anchorage 
 of her Majesty’s ships “ in ordinary,’’ 
 extending from Mount Edgcumbe to 
 Saltash, a distance of 4 m. The 
 rt. bank on the left hand in ascend- 
 ing here offers in succession, the 
 creeks of Millbrook and Si. John’s 
 Lake , the town of Torpoint , the woods 
 of Gravesend and Thankes (seats of 
 Lord Graves), and of Antony House 
 (W. H. Pole Carew, Esq., M.P.), 
 and the St. Germans or Lynher river. 
 The 1. bank, the Victualling-yard , 
 Dockyard, Morice Town, New Passage , 
 Key ham Steam - yard, and an inlet 
 reaching to Tamerton. The won- 
 derful tubes of the Albert Bridge then 
 span the river at a height of 170 ft. 
 above the surface, and Saltash greets 
 you. (Rte. 23.) The view is ex- 
 tremely picturesque. The old crazy 
 houses, with their balconies and ba- 
 lustrades, rise one above the other 
 from a steep slope ; and the place is 
 often invested by an atmosphere so 
 clear and bright as to remind the 
 traveller of the sunny south. Above 
 Saltash the river expands so con- 
 siderably as to assume the appear- 
 ance of a lake ; and here, on the 1. 
 bank, the Tavy joins the stream 
 amid the woods of Warlegh (W. 
 Radcliffe, Esq.), and a distant view 
 of Dartmoor — particularly of Mis 
 Tor — enhances the beauty of the 
 neighbouring shore. On the rt. bank 
 is the Ch. of Landulph (Corn., Rte. 
 25), standing at the mouth of a 
 
135 
 
 Devonshire. Route 7. — Plymouth : the Tamar . 
 
 creek, which is overhung by the trees 
 of Moditonham ( — Carpenter, Esq.), a 
 house in which the Commissioners of 
 the Prince of Orange treated with the 
 Earl of Bath for the surrender of the 
 castles of Pendennis and Plymouth. 
 The voyager now reaches a sharp 
 turn of the river, and, upon rounding 
 the corner at the village of Rail’s 
 Hole (famous for cherries), suddenly 
 beholds Pentillie Castle (Corn., Rte. 
 25) and its crescent of wooded hills. 
 Through scenery of this description 
 the boat glides onward, passing the 
 village of Beer Alston — once a bo- 
 rough, disfranchised by the Reform 
 Bill — to Cothele (Corn., Rte. 25), 
 where it will be necessary to disem- 
 bark and proceed on foot to the old 
 mansion of the lords of Mount Edg- 
 cumbe. The river-scene is delight- 
 ful ; the limpid water is margined by 
 rocks, and clearly reflects the green 
 foresters overhead : while, at a bend 
 of the stream, the wood recedes into 
 the glen of Danescombe , so called from 
 a tradition that the Danes landed in 
 it previous to their defeat on Hing- 
 ston Down by Egbert, in the year 
 835. Above Cothele is the village 
 of Calstock ; beyond that place a 
 wooded crescent skirts the river, 
 which, winding round the demesne 
 of Harewood House (formerly the 
 residence of Reginald Trelawny, 
 Esq., but purchased in 1866 as offices 
 for the Duchy of Cornwall), so 
 lingers in the vicinity of Calstock, 
 that the best course is to proceed 
 through the grounds of Harewood 
 and meet the boat at the ferry op- 
 posite Morwellliam . Here there is 
 
 an inn, to which you can return 
 after continuing the voyage to the 
 Weir-head ; but this should be done, 
 as above Morwellham the river is 
 girt on either bank by elevated hills, 
 which, on the 1. shore, are faced by 
 the superb crags called the Morwell 
 Bocks . These will excite the admira- 
 tion of the beholder, rising in shaggy 
 pinnacles to an immense height. 
 From Morwellham you should walk 
 
 up the inclined plane of the Tavistock 
 canal, to the summit of the rocks. 
 (See Rte. 14. Excursion from Ta- 
 vistock.) The ch. of 
 
 Calstock ( Inn : Naval and Commer- 
 cial) crowns an opposite hill. It 
 is built of Cornish granite, is chiefly 
 Perp. with a good W. tower, and 
 contains the vault of the Edgcumbes. 
 built in 1788, and monuments to 
 Pierce Edgcombe, and the Countess 
 of Sandwich, widow of that earl who 
 was killed in the furious action with 
 De Ruyter, 1672. In the vicinity of 
 Calstock, near Harewood, are quarries 
 of the porphyritic elvan called Bo bo- 
 rough stone. 
 
 (e) Shorter excursions can be taken 
 on this river ; viz. to Trematon Castle , 
 Antony House (pictures), St. Germans, 
 Tamerton Foliot, &c. (See Rte. 23.) 
 It is a pleasure to be floated by the 
 tide along Tamerton Creek , when its 
 woods and the venerable War leg h Tor 
 are lighted by a summer’s sun. 
 
 Tamerton Foliot , the bourn of such 
 a voyage, is an interesting village, 
 placed at the meeting of 3 valleys, 
 with an old church approached by 
 steps hewn from the rocky ground. 
 In this ch. (Perp., with a good 
 tower) are tombs of the Foliots and 
 Coplestons, and effigies of Roger de 
 Gorges and his lady, of the time of 
 Hen. Y. (a fine specimen, the heads 
 supported by angels). Remark also 
 a curious monument for Copleston 
 Bampfylde, set. 10 (1669). He is 
 in gown and band with a large wig. 
 Near the churchyard wall was the 
 Copleston Oak , the “fatal oak” of 
 4 Warlegh,’ a tale of Mrs. Bray’s, rich 
 in word-paintings of the scenery of 
 this neighbourhood. This pictur- 
 esque old tree was blown down some 
 years since. It was at its foot that 
 the “godson” of John Copleston, 
 of Warlegh (temp. Eliz,), fell dead. 
 He had much “angered” his god- 
 father, and after a long absence 
 
136 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth . Sect. I. 
 
 presented himself in Tamerton ch., 
 where Copleston was present. See- 
 ing his godfather’s “fierce looks/’ 
 he hastened out of ch. after the ser- 
 vice, but was followed by Cople- 
 ston, who threw his dagger after 
 him and killed him on the spot. 
 Copleston’s pardon, says Prince, 
 “ was hardly obtained at the cost of 
 about 13 manors in Cornwall.” The 
 ch. of Tamerton belonged to Plymp- 
 ton Priory until the dissolution. 
 In the parish of Tamerton, on the 
 shore of the Tavy, is the mansion of 
 
 Warlegh (Walter Radcliffe, Esq.), 
 inhabited by Sampson Foliot, lord 
 of the manor of Tamerton, in the 
 reign of Stephen. The present house, 
 however (although it may have por- 
 tions of much earlier date), was 
 chiefly built in the reigns of Hen. 
 VII. and VIII. Here is a great 
 hall hung with family portraits, 
 among which may be seen those of 
 Gertrude Copleston and her husband 
 Sir William Bastard, who assisted 
 old John Ar undell in the defence of 
 Pendennis Castle. (See Rte. 26.) 
 There is also a large family-piece 
 by Hudson , the master of Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds. The hall is lighted by 
 windows of stained glass, bearing the 
 arms of Foliot, Radcliffe, and Cople- 
 ston. In the grounds are avenues, 
 terraces, and gardens. The park 
 (but with slender foundation) has 
 been sometimes fixed on as the scene 
 of Ethelwold’s murder by Edgar. 
 (This has also been fixed at Hare- 
 wood, the seat of the Trelawnys ; 
 but Harewood forest in Hampshire 
 (near Andover) has the best claim to 
 this distinction. A spot called from 
 time immemorial the “ Dead Man’s 
 Plack,” is there pointed out as that 
 on which Ethel wold fell. Adjoin- 
 ing Harewood forest is Whorwell 
 or Wherwell Priory, founded by 
 Elfrida.) Warlegh has belonged suc- 
 cessively to the families of Foliot, 
 Gorges (for six descents), Bonville, 
 Copleston, and Bampfylde. It passed 
 
 from the latter to the Radcliffes 
 in 1741. 
 
 On the Tavy, nearly opposite 
 Warlegh, but a little higher up, is 
 the ch. of Beer Ferrers (Rte. 14), well 
 worth a visit. 
 
 (/) The Oreston Quarries and Sal- 
 tram will contribute to another day’s 
 pleasure. They lie just E. of Ply- 
 mouth, and are most agreeably reached 
 by boating it up the Catwater. The 
 Oreston Quarries have furnished all 
 the limestone employed in the Break- 
 water ; and the extent of ground there 
 cumbered by broken cliffs and the 
 ruins of the land is astonishing. 
 During the progress of the excava- 
 tion the workmen discovered in cer- 
 tain fissures the bones of hyaenas, 
 elephants, rhinoceroses, wolves, deer, 
 and other animals ; remains curi- 
 ously intermixed. The Oreston 
 caverns have not as yet been satis- 
 factorily described. Mr. Pengelly is 
 at present (1872) engaged in collect- 
 ing all the information on the subject 
 which is accessible. 
 
 On the hill above Oreston is the 
 fort of Stamford Hill , one of the new 
 defences of the harbour. It occupies 
 the site of a fort thrown up by Prince 
 Maurice during the siege of Ply- 
 mouth. In preparing the founda- 
 tions for the present fort, an ancient 
 cemetery was found, containing relics 
 of very great interest. The numer- 
 ous graves were from 4 to 4j ft. 
 deep, excavated for 1 ft. in the soil 
 and for 3 in a slaty rock. They 
 were partly filled with blocks of 
 limestone, which seem to have been 
 originally used as a lining, and the 
 body must have been placed in the 
 grave in a sitting position. The 
 relics consisted of bronze mirrors, 
 bracelets, fibulae, cups, fragments 
 of glass and pottery, and some 
 iron implements much decayed. A 
 single coin of Vespasian (a.d. 69-79) 
 was also found (but not in the 
 grave). All these relics have been 
 deposited in the museum of the Ply- 
 
Devonshire. Route 7. — Plymstock — Lair a Bridge — Saltram. 137 
 
 mouth Athenaeum (see ante), and are 
 described in the 4 Archseologia,’ vol. 
 xl. The cemetery appears to he of 
 the late Celtic period. Some British 
 gold coins were found in this neigh- 
 bourhood (at Mount Batten) in 1832 ; 
 and at Plymstock (1 m. E.) a great 
 hoard of bronze implements was 
 found in 1868, by a labourer who 
 was removing rock from the base of 
 a limestone ridge. At the depth of 
 about 2 ft. below the surface a flat 
 stone was discovered, leaning against 
 the natural rock. Under it, piled 
 upon a ledge of the rock, were six- 
 teen bronze celts, three daggers, a 
 two-edged weapon of a rare type 
 (either a spear-head or a dagger) and 
 a mortice-chisel. The greater part 
 were given by the Duke of Bedford, 
 on whose property they were found, 
 to the British Museum. A few may 
 be seen in the Albert Museum at 
 Exeter. (See Rte. 1.) The “find” 
 is described by Mr. Albert Way, in 
 the 4 Archseol. Journal,’ vol. xxvi. 
 This may have been the store of a 
 travelling merchant, but the neigh- 
 bouring cemetery indicates a per- 
 manent town or village of some size ; 
 and it seems very probable that one 
 of the early emporia of the tin trade 
 may have been fixed on the shore of 
 the estuary at Oreston. No remains 
 have been found on the actual site 
 of Plymouth. 
 
 The manor of Plymstock belonged 
 to Tavistock Abbey, from a period 
 before the Conquest. The c/i. be- 
 longed to Plympton Priory. At 
 Radford , near the head of Hooe Lake, 
 Sir Walter Raleigh was for some 
 time a prisoner under the charge of 
 Sir Christopher Harris, after his 
 arrival at Plymouth in 1618. 
 
 A good example of the junction 
 and alternation of the limestone with 
 the slate may be seen near the 
 
 Lair a Bridge , an elegant cast-iron 
 structure, built 1824-7, at the expense 
 of the late Earl of Morley, by the 
 late J. M. Rendel, who was then 
 only 25 years of age, and received for 
 
 his plan of it the Telford medal. It 
 is on 5 elliptical arches, and at the 
 time of its erection was the largest 
 structure of the kind in the country, 
 excepting that of Southwark. Ad- 
 joining it is the terminus of the 
 railway from Dartmoor, heaped with 
 a ponderous load of granite. At 
 this bridge the estuary of the Plym 
 changes its name of Catwater to the 
 Laira , and at high water spreads 
 over a broad and sedgy channel, of 
 which 175 acres were reclaimed from 
 the water by the late earl at a cost of 
 9000Z. The embankment is 2910 ft. 
 long and 16 high. The woods of — 
 Saltram skirt the E. shore its en- 
 tire length. This seat of the Earl 
 of Morley is justly admired for its 
 picturesque beauties, and was pur- 
 chased in the year 1712 by Geo. 
 Parker, Esq., ancestor of the pre- 
 sent Earl. Saltram, in the reign of 
 Charles I., was the seat of Sir James 
 Bagg, the 44 humble bounden servant 
 and. perpetuall slave” of Villiers, 
 first Duke of Buckingham, and the 
 indefatigable enemy of Sir John 
 Eliot, of St. Germans. After the 
 failure of the expedition to Rochelle 
 in 1627, Buckingham landed at Ply- 
 mouth and slept at Saltram, whence 
 he set out the next day for London. 
 John Parker, of Saltram, was created 
 Baron Boringdon in 1774, (Boring- 
 don, see ante the present route, was 
 the old residence of the Parkers,) 
 and his son was made Earl of Mor- 
 ley in 1815. The existing mansion, 
 erected by Lady Catli. Parker early 
 in the last centy., is the largest in 
 the county, and well known for the 
 Saltram Gallery , a very interesting 
 collection, formed chiefly by Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds for the first Lord. 
 Boringdon. It contains the fol- 
 lowing portraits by this eminent 
 artist ; — 
 
 Hon. Mrs. Parker, whole-length, engr. Wat- 
 son. 
 
 John, E. of Morley, and his sister, whole- 
 length, engr. S. W. Reynolds, 
 
 Hon. Mrs. Parker and her son, whole-length, 
 engr. S. W. R. 
 
138 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 7 . — Exeter to Plymouth. 
 
 John, Lord Boringdon, small whole-length, 
 engr. S. W. R. 
 
 Theresa, daughter of Lord B. 
 
 Montague Edmund Parker, Esq. 
 
 Walter Radcliffe, Esq., of Warlegh. 
 
 Sir Thomas Acland, Bart. 
 
 Sir John Chichester, Bart. 
 
 Sir John Davis, Bart. 
 
 William, Marquis of Lansdowne. 
 
 Commodore Harrison. 
 
 Bartolozzi, the engraver, 1771. 
 
 Kitty Fisher, as Cleopatra dissolving the pearl, 
 a most beautiful face, engr. Houston and 
 S. W. R. 
 
 Mrs. Abinger, as Miss Prue, engr. S.W.R. 
 Miss Fordyce (Mrs. Greenwood), engr. S.W.R. 
 
 The library contains a portrait of Sir 
 Joshua by Angelica Kauffmann, paint- 
 ed 1768, but, says Cotton in his ‘ Life 
 of Sir J. R.,’ “ it has all the look of a 
 real matter-of-fact likeness, very 
 different from the fine pictorial heads 
 he painted of himself, with bushy 
 hair, and a loose robe thrown over 
 the shoulders.” Of the other pic- 
 tures may be mentioned — 
 
 Lady Catherine Parker, 
 
 whole-length. . . . 
 
 
 Cattle 
 
 Cuyp. 
 
 Madonna and Child^ . . 
 
 Sassoferrato . 
 
 Flight into Egypt . . . 
 
 G. Poussin. 
 
 Marriage of St. Catherine 
 
 Correggio. 
 
 Spanish Figures . . . 
 
 Palamedes. 
 
 Soldiers in a rocky scene . 
 
 Salvator Rosa. 
 
 St. Anthony and Christ . 
 
 Caracci. 
 
 St. Catherine .... 
 
 Guido. 
 
 Tribute Money. . . . 
 
 Caravaggio. 
 
 Landscape 
 
 Wouvermans. 
 
 Adoration of the Shepherds 
 
 Carlo Dolce. 
 
 Madonna and Child . . 
 
 Andrea del Sarto. 
 
 Landscape 
 
 Jerghem. 
 
 Bolingbroke Family . . 
 
 Three Female Figures 
 
 Vandyke. 
 
 Rubens. 
 
 Game 
 
 Snyders. 
 
 Holy Family .... 
 
 Guido. 
 
 Bacchanalians (valued at 
 3000 guineas) . . . 
 
 Titian. 
 
 Sir Thomas Parker . . 
 
 Jansen. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 — 
 
 Sea-piece 
 
 Vmdervelde. 
 
 Two small pictures . . 
 
 Albano. 
 
 Charles XII. 
 
 — 
 
 Apollo and Daphne . . 
 
 Albano. 
 
 Phaeton 
 
 Stubbs. 
 
 Sigismunda. 
 
 — 
 
 Landscape 
 
 Wilson. 
 
 Decapitation of St. Paul . 
 
 Guercino. 
 
 Cattle 
 
 Rosa di Tivoli. 
 
 Animals 
 
 Snyders. 
 
 The Assumption . . . 
 
 Sabbatini. 
 
 The ceilings of the saloon and 
 of the dining-room were painted by 
 
 Zucchi ; and the house contains many 
 other specimens of art, among which 
 is a bust of the Earl of Morley by 
 Nollekens , and casts of Psyche, a 
 Faun, and a Hebe by Canova. A 
 collection of rare birds , killed in the 
 neighbourhood, includes the Bohe- 
 mian wax-wing, Montagu’s harrier, 
 short-eared owl, and siskin. 
 
 ( g ) Bickleigh Vale and the Valley 
 
 of the Cad should be explored by all 
 who like to seek Nature in her lonely 
 retreats, and to commune with her 
 in rocky dells and moorland soli- 
 tudes. They are now best reached 
 (with other places of interest on the 
 border of Dartmoor and on the moor 
 itself) by the Plymouth and Ta- 
 vistock Ely., and are described in 
 Rte, 14. 
 
 (7i) Short excursions may be made 
 from Plymouth to the neighbouring 
 villages ; such as Tamerton Foliot (see 
 ante), St. Budeaux, and Egg Buckland. 
 Near Tamerton Foliot is Warlegh 
 (W. Radcliffe, Esq.); near St. Bu- 
 deaux, an ivy-mantled tower of the 
 old manor-house of Budocksheds , 
 commonly called “Butshed.” Here 
 Sir Harry Trelawny, who had been 
 aide-de-camp to the great D. of 
 Marlborough, lived for many years, 
 and was the first patron in the west 
 of ornamental gardening. His gar- 
 dens at Budockshed were rich in 
 American shrubs and trees, the first 
 rhododendrons and azaleas cultivated 
 in Devonshire. The ch., ded. to St. 
 Budoc of Cornwall, was removed to 
 this site from lower ground in 1563. 
 From the tower there is a fine view 
 over the Tamar. The ch. and ch.- 
 yard here were fortified by the 
 Royalists, and stormed by the 
 Roundheads in 1646. At Agaton, 
 in this par. is one of the new forts, 
 defending Plymouth on the landward 
 side. Near Egg Buckland is Widey 
 Court (Miss Morshead), the head- 
 quarters of Prince Maurice when 
 he besieged Plymouth in 1643, and 
 
139 
 
 Devonshire. Route 1 .—Eddy stone Lighthouse. 
 
 visited by the king in Sept. 1644. 
 The ch. of Egg Buckland (B. by the 
 sea ? — Sax. ^-stream — the edge — • 
 boundary-stream) is Dec., and has a 
 good S. porch. The tower well de- 
 serves attention. 
 
 (k) The Eddy stone Lighthouse. Wea- 
 ther permitting, you will probably be 
 tempted to visit this wonderful work, 
 which, erected on a mere point in 
 a stormy sea, affords a beacon and 
 guiding-light to mariners. The Ed- 
 dystone is a narrow rock of gneiss, 
 situated 14 m. from Plymouth, daily 
 submerged by the tide, and of most 
 mournful celebrity as the scene of 
 repeated disasters. For many years 
 the possibility of raising some struc- 
 ture to mark this hidden danger had 
 been a moot point with engineers, 
 when, in 1696, Mr. Winstanley suc- 
 ceeded in erecting a lighthouse, 
 which he imagined to be as firmly 
 seated as the rock itself. The build- 
 ing was, however, scarcely complete 
 before a furious storm engulfed it 
 (1703), together with its unfortunate 
 projector. After a lapse of 3 years 
 Mr. Rudyard constructed a second 
 lighthouse, better calculated to 
 resist the watery element, but this 
 fell a prey to fire. It was then 
 that Smeaton planned the present 
 structure, taking, it is said, as his 
 model the trunk of an oak, which 
 so seldom succumbs to the tempest. 
 This work was commenced in 1757 
 and finished in 1759, and the success 
 with which it has braved the storms 
 of 100 winters is sufficient proof of 
 the skill of its projector. The case 
 of the building is formed of granite, 
 and so rooted in the rock by the 
 means of dovetailing, that in fact it 
 forms a part of the Eddystone. The 
 structure is 100 ft. in height and 26 
 in diameter; and being situated so far 
 from the land, with the strong waves 
 sweeping around it. is truly impos- 
 ing in its effect. “ Were there only 
 a dark rock emerging from the sea in 
 this lonely position, it would com- 
 
 mand the presence of very unusual 
 feelings in the breast ; but when to 
 this is added a graceful building in- 
 habited by man, growing as it were 
 out of the bosom of the deep, the 
 sensation produced is altogether in- 
 describable. We seem transported 
 to a scene in some new kind of exist- 
 ence/ ' Over the door of the lantern, 
 and upon the stone which appears to 
 have been the last fixed, is engraved 
 the date, and the following words of 
 thanksgiving for completion of so 
 arduous an undertaking — “ 24th Aug. 
 1759. Laus Deo.” A full and most 
 interesting account of the progress 
 and completion of the building will 
 be found in Smiles's Lives of the En- 
 gineers (vol. ii. Smeaton). During the 
 summer there are frequent steamboat 
 excursions to the Eddystone ; but 
 passengers are seldom landed there. 
 
 The Eddystone was the first of 
 the towers that rose in the midst of 
 an open sea on small isolated reefs, 
 overwashed by the waves ; but it has 
 been exceeded both in magnitude 
 and as a trophy of mastered diffi- 
 culties by 3 more recent erections, — 
 the Bell Rock, on the E. coast of 
 Scotland, which rises to a height of 
 117 ft. ; the Skerry Yore, on the W. 
 coast, 158 ft. high; and the Bishop 
 Rock tower in the Scilly Isles, 145 
 ft. high. 
 
 ( l ) Another, and a very delight- 
 ful, excursion may be made to Rame 
 Head, and thence to the new fort of 
 Tregantle. You may cross at Cremill 
 Passage, ascend the road at the back 
 of Mount Edgcumbe to Maker 
 Church, and thence to Rame ; hence 
 a wide new military road has been 
 constructed along the cliffs, com- 
 manding grand views over Whitsand 
 Bay, as far as Tregantle. From 
 Tregantle you may descend by An- 
 tony to Tor Point, and thence cross 
 by the steam ferry to Devonport. 
 For all these places, see Rtes. 23 
 and 24. 
 
140 
 
 Route 8 , — Exeter to 
 
 KOUTE 8. 
 
 EXETER TO MORETON HAMPSTEAD : 
 (a) BY ROAD ; AND (6) BY THE NEW- 
 TON AND MORETON RAILWAY. (DUNS- 
 FORD BRIDGE, BOVEY TRACEY, HEY- 
 TOR, MANATON, LUSTLEIGH.) (c) 
 MORETON BY CHAGFORD TO OKE- 
 HAMPTON (BY ROAD), DREWSTEIGN- 
 TON, NEIGHBOURHOOD OF CHAGFORD. 
 
 (The best centres for the tourist 
 throughout this tract of country, 
 the wildest and one of the most in- 
 teresting in Devonshire, are : — ( a ) 
 Bovey Tracey for Heytor, Manaton, 
 and Lustleigh, and for the broken 
 and most picturesque scenery toward 
 Hennock. (6) Morcton Hampstead 
 and C/iagford for exploring the 
 scenery on the river Teign, and the 
 adjoining parts of Dartmoor. There 
 is a tolerable inn ( Mugford’s , see 
 post) at Bovey Tracey, and lodgings 
 are plentiful. (An order sent by post 
 to Mugford will ensure a carriage or 
 break to meet travellers at the sta- 
 tion, whence a round may be made 
 to Heytor and Manaton. This may 
 be easily done in a day’s excursion 
 from Exeter or Torquay). At Lust- 
 leigh there is a good new hotel (the 
 Cleave Hotel) very near the station. 
 At Monton Hampstead and Chagford 
 there are fairly good inns — that at 
 Chagford, the 4 Moor Park Hotel,’ 
 is especially comfortable ; — and at 
 Chagford there are many lodging- 
 houses.) 
 
 Moreton Hampstead. Sect. 1. i 
 
 (a) Exeter to Moreton by road ! 
 (12 m.). This, notwithstanding the 
 rly., is the shortest way of reaching 
 Moreton Hampstead from Exeter; 
 and the drive is a very agreeable 
 one. Leaving Exeter by St. 
 Thomas’s we pass — 
 
 2J m. 1. Fordlands (J. E. C. 
 Walker, Esq.), and at 
 
 3 m. The house of Per ridge (John 
 Stevenstone, Esq.) is seen 1. ; rt. 
 
 J m. lies the Church of Holcombe ■ 
 Burnell , of no great interest. The 
 manor house, built by Sir. Thos. 
 Dennys, temp. Hen. VIII., is now a 
 farmhouse. 
 
 On the hill, 1. J m. beyond Per- 
 ridge, is Perridye or Cotley Camp , 
 commanding a fine view of Exeter 
 on the one side, and of the vale of 
 the Teign on the other. The form j 
 of the camp is circular, and it is 
 about 320 yds. in circumference. 
 
 There is pleasant scenery on the 
 road until we reach 7f m. New or 
 Dunsford Bridge on the Teign, where , 
 is a small public-house called the j 
 Half Moon. (The village of Duns- 
 ford with the ch. is distant about a 1 
 mile 1. See Rte. 6.) Dunsford j 
 Bridge is a famous spot for pic-nics. 
 The Teign here flows between , 
 wooded hills of great beauty, and a 
 day may be spent very agreeably in 
 wandering among them. Heitor j 
 should be climbed on the rt. bank 
 of the river ; and the Teign may be 
 ascended to Clifford or to Fingle 
 bridges. 
 
 Heitor (the “ Hel” seems to be 
 the same Celtic root found in Hel- 
 vellyn, and indicates height, pre- 
 eminence) is a striking mass of 
 granite, forming a conspicuous land- 
 mark for all the country on the N. 
 side of the moor. It is reached from 
 Dunsford Bridge by a steep climb 
 through very picturesque woods. 
 On this tor are some large “rock 
 basins” (one is the largest on or 
 near Dartmoor, except that on Kes- 
 tor), which some antiquaries regard 
 as artificial and “ Druidical,” but 
 
141 
 
 Devonshire. Route 8. — Teigngrace — Bovey Tracey. 
 
 which result in all probability from 
 the disintegration of the granite. 
 The local legend runs that King 
 Arthur and the “ enemy ” flung 
 quoits at each other from the tops of 
 Heitor and the neighbouring Black- 
 stone (seen across the valley), which 
 quoits remain in the shape of the 
 granite that crests them. 
 
 (From Dunsford Bridge a road 
 turns S. and proceeds in company 
 with the Teign, which here makes a 
 sharp angle, by Christow to Chud- 
 leigli. There is a clean country inn 
 (the Teign Inn) at Bridford on this 
 road, for which see Rte. 11.) 
 
 The Teign is here a crystal 
 stream abounding with trout, and 
 celebrated for its romantic valley. 
 For a distance of 8 m. above Duns- 
 ford the river pursues a swift and 
 tortuous course through a profound 
 glen; its bed strewn with large 
 stones and canopied by trees; its 
 banks rising in abrupt masses, 
 thickly, covered with copse, and oc- 
 casionally diversified by a projecting 
 cliff'. ‘ Scenery of this beautiful cha- 
 racter is shifted at every bend of the 
 stream. A good path leads from 
 Dunsford Bridge along the 1. bank 
 as far as Clifford Bridge , on the old 
 road from Exeter to Moreton, where 
 there is a water-mill, singularly 
 picturesque. 
 
 (Above Clifford Bridge rt. is Ful- 
 ford Park (see Rte. 6), and 1. the 
 road ascends one of the steepest hills 
 in the county toward Moreton 
 Hampstead. On the top of the hill, 
 overhanging the Teign, is Wooston 
 Camp. (See the present rte. Exc. 
 from Moreton.) The gorge through 
 which the Teign flows between 
 Clifford and Fingle bridges is ex- 
 ceedingly fine, and of true moun- 
 tainous character. For all this part 
 of the river see the present rte. Exc. 
 from Chagford). 
 
 From Dunsford the road climbs a 
 steep hill, with fine glimpses of the 
 river through trees, and soon opens 
 a view of 
 
 12 m. Moreton Hampstead , with 
 the hills encircling it. (See post.) 
 
 (b) Exeter to Moreton by raiV 
 
 From Exeter to Newton the line 
 is the same as in Rte. 7. From 
 Newton a branch line (12J m.) runs 
 to Moreton Hampstead. The first 
 station is at 
 
 2J m. Teigngrace , so-called from 
 its ancient possessors, the family of 
 Graas or Grace. The ch. dates 
 from 1787, when it was rebuilt by 
 three brothers of the Tempi er 
 family, then of Stover. Stover , now 
 the property of the Duke of Somer- 
 set, lies about 1 m. 1. There is a 
 large piece of water in the park. 
 The Stover or Teign Grace Canal 
 was constructed about 1770, and 
 was used for the transport of Heytor 
 granite. The Heytor quarries are 
 no longer worked ; but the canal 
 (which begins at Yentiford in the 
 parish of Teign Grace, and joins the 
 river Teign near Newton Abbot) 
 now serves for the conveyance of 
 pipe and potter’s clay to Teign- 
 mouth. Many thousand tons of clay 
 pass over the canal yearly, for ex- 
 portation to all parts of the world. 
 (See 'Kingsteignton, Rte. 7). Cross- 
 ing the Bovey Heathfield the line 
 reaches 
 
 6 m. Bovey Tracey Stat. (1. is 
 Parke , W. Hoie, Esq.). The village 
 of Bovey {Inn: Mugford’s; there 
 are many new lodging-houses nearer 
 the station) is a good centre for the 
 tourist. It consists mainly of one 
 long straggling street, at the end of 
 which, farthest from, the station, is 
 the ch. The manor of Bovey be- 
 longed to Harold before the Con- 
 quest, then passed to the Bp. of 
 Coutances, and at last to the 
 Traceys, Barons of Barnstaple, 
 who long held it. Bovey was (Jan. 
 9, 1646) the scene of the discom- 
 fiture of a part of Lord Wentworth's 
 brigade by Cromwell (then Lieut.- 
 Generalj himself. So complete, it is 
 
142 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to Moreton Hampstead. 
 
 said, was the surprise, that Went- 
 worth’s officers were engaged at 
 cards, and escaped only by throw- 
 ing their stakes of money out of the 
 window among the Roundheads. 
 (This, however, is a piece of Puritan 
 scandal, frequently repeated else- 
 where. For the real history see 
 Sprigge’s 4 England’s Recovery.’) 
 Some officers and about fifty men 
 were, however, taken. The rest 
 escaped in the darkness; and some 
 of them occupied Ilsington Ch. for 
 a short time, but did not venture to 
 await Cromwell’s approach. He 
 descended on Bovey by Trusham 
 and Hennock. 
 
 The Church of Bovey , throughout 
 Perp. (except the tower, which may 
 be Dec.), has been restored by the 
 care of the present vicar, the Hon. 
 and Rev. C. L. Courtenay. It is 
 dedicated to St. Thomas of Canter- 
 bury, one of whose murderers was a 
 Tracey. The wreathed caps are of 
 the Devonshire type. The S. porch 
 is stone roofed with a curious central 
 boss showing four heads — a king, 
 bishop, noble (?), and pope. The 
 screen and stone pulpit deserve 
 special notice. The latter has been 
 newly gilt and coloured. It is hexa- 
 gonal, with figures of St. George, 
 St. Margaret, St. Peter, St. Paul, 
 St. Andrew, St. James, and the four 
 Evangelists, whose emblems are 
 somewhat grotesque. The lower 
 panels of the screen have alternate 
 figures of prophets and apostles (as 
 at Kenton and Chudleigh). In the 
 chancel are two elaborate cenotaphs, 
 one with the effigy, in alabaster, of 
 Elizeus Hele of Fardel, — a benefac- 
 tor by his will to many Devonshire 
 parishes, who died in 1636, and was 
 buried in Exeter cathedral. (He 
 was the founder of the school at 
 Plympton of which Sir J. Reynolds’ 
 father was the master.) The second 
 cenotaph, with effigy, is for Nicholas 
 Eveleigh, the 1st husband of Alice 
 Bray, whose 2nd was Elizeus Hele. 
 She seems to have been the erector 
 
 of both monuments. There is a 3rd 
 monument for Sir John Stowell, died 
 1669. James Forbes, chaplain to 
 Charles I., and presented to the 
 living by the king (1628), lived 
 through the “troubles,” and after 
 the Restoration placed some curious 
 memorial inscriptions on the screen 
 (recording Arch bp. Laud “beheaded 
 by the bloody Parliament,” and Bp. 
 Hall of Exeter, 4 ‘ imprisoned by that 
 wicked Parliament ”), which have un- 
 happily been destroyed. Forbes was 
 buried here in 1670. In the ch.-yard 
 (S. side of chancel) is a monument for 
 his wife (d. 1655), of very Scottish 
 character. It is of granite, with 
 shields of arms, and the words 
 “ Surgam. Yivam. Canam.” In 
 1815 several Swedish copper dollars 
 were found in the N.E. side of the 
 ch., which seemed to have been de- 
 posited in the hands of a corpse of 
 large stature. It is suggested that 
 this was a Swedish soldier attached 
 to the forces of Lord Wentworth 
 (many Swedes are known to have 
 been among the king’s troops), and 
 killed in the skirmish of Jan. 1646. 
 {Arch. Journal , vol. xxiii.) During 
 the restoration of this church a 
 curious wall painting, representing 
 the 4 trois morts ’ and the 4 trois vifs ’ 
 — a 4 fabliau ’ once in much request — 
 was discovered in the nave. Three 
 kings, riding onward in state, are 
 startled by the sudden appearance 
 of three skeletons. The painting 
 was again covered. 
 
 A short distance N. of the ch. is 
 the House of Mercy for South Devon, 
 in connection with the House at 
 Cl ewer. It is an imposing structure 
 (Woodyeare, architect), but the flat 
 lines want breaking, and it is hardly 
 an architectural success. The chapel, 
 ded. to St. Michael and all Angels, 
 is enriched with frescoes. 
 
 In the centre of the street is a 
 large and pretentious town hall and 
 market house, of recent erection. 
 At the entrance of the Heathfield, 
 and not far from the station, is St. 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 8 . — Bovey Heathfield. 143 
 
 John's Chapelt a modern Dec. build- 
 ing, which should be seen. The 
 chancel is elaborately and well- 
 coloured. There is a sculptured 
 altar-piece ; and on either side 
 mosaics by Salviati, figures of cens- 
 ing angels. 
 
 The Bovey Heathfield , a level 
 expanse covered with furze and 
 heather, and in parts with fir planta- 
 tions, is a district of the highest in- 
 terest to geologists. It is in fact the 
 bed of an ancient lake, once filled 
 by the waters of the Teign and the 
 Bovey rivers, and now occupied by 
 a peculiar formation which extends 
 (as no doubt the lake itself extended) 
 from Bovey to Newton and thence 
 to Aller, 3J m. N.W. of Torquay. 
 In 1860 a thorough examination of 
 this formation was made by Mr. 
 Pengelly at the expense of Lady 
 Burdett-Coutts. It consists of beds 
 of lignite, clay, and sand, and has 
 an aggregate thickness of more than 
 100 ft. This deposit belongs to the 
 lower Miocene period, and is there- 
 fore more modern than the Devon- 
 shire chalks. An enormous number 
 of fossil plants have been found in 
 the lignitic beds, belonging to at 
 least fifty species, all indicating a 
 subtropical climate. Among them 
 are species of laurel, cinnamons, fig- 
 trees, and a climbing palm allied to 
 those common in the Brazilian 
 forests. Beyond the region where 
 these plants grew, and probably on 
 the Dartmoor range, there must have 
 been at the same time a vast forest 
 of coniferous trees belonging to the 
 genus Sequoia, the only living species 
 of which are to be found in Cali- 
 fornia. One of these is the Welling- 
 tonia gigantea, and its Dartmoor re- 
 latives were also large, remains of 
 trunks measuring 6 ft. in diameter 
 having been met with. Fragments 
 of this tree, which has been named 
 Sequoia Couttsise, form the greater 
 part of the lignite (it is also found 
 in the Hempstead beds in the Isle 
 of Wight of the same period), and 
 
 must have been brought down to the 
 lake by the rivers which were its 
 feeders, and perhaps by great floods, 
 which also carried down from Dart- 
 moor the feldspathic clay and 
 quartzose sand, interlaying the 
 lignites. Great lumps of inspissated 
 turpentine — the “resin” of the coni- 
 fers— occur occasionally ; but with 
 the exception of the elytron of a 
 beetle ( Buprestites Falconeri ) no 
 animal remains have been found in 
 these beds. The lignites are un- 
 conformably overlaid by a thick 
 “ head ” of sand, coarse clay, and 
 stones, of much more modern date. 
 This has been found to contain 
 leaves of the dwarf birch ( Betula 
 nand)t now an arctic plant, and of 
 three species of willow, all betoken- 
 ing a much colder climate than that 
 of Devonshire at present. The 
 “ head ” of sand, &c., has been much 
 denuded; and on its surface are 
 found beds of fine potter’s clay which 
 have been turned to account in the 
 Potteries, recommenced here in 1844 
 after having been for some time dis- 
 continued. The lignite (here called 
 “ Bovey coal it emits a disagree- 
 able odour in burning, though it is 
 used in the neighbouring cottages) 
 was at first raised in great quantities 
 (15,000 tons in one year) and was 
 used in the earthenware ovens. For 
 this purpose at least an acre of the 
 Heathfield was bared and the coal 
 laid open ; but this process was 
 attended with some difficulty, and 
 has not been renewed. At present 
 the lignite is only used for firing red 
 bricks and tiles. For other purposes 
 coal is brought from the neighbour- 
 hood of Bristol (1 ton gives as much 
 heat as 5 or 6 of the lignite). The 
 Bovey manufactures are white, 
 printed and painted ware, besides 
 ware of stained clay (drab, lilac, &c.). 
 The ordinary ware is very good, and 
 the higher quality much above the 
 average. The clays of the place are 
 only used for fire goods, and for 
 ordinary bricks and tiles. The clay 
 
144 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to Moreton Hampstead. 
 
 in use for pottery is from Kings- 
 teignton and Dorsetshire, but is 
 always mixed with a proportion of 
 China clay from Lee Moor or St. 
 Austell. The number of persons 
 employed about the works ranges 
 from 250 to 350. The processes are 
 worth seeing, and specimens of the 
 ware may be obtained at the pot- 
 teries. 
 
 The Devon Huel Frances copper- 
 mine is in this parish. 
 
 Excursions from Bovey may be made 
 in all directions. S. of the village 
 (1. of the station), Hey tor, Hound 
 Tor , and Rippon Tor, maybe visited. 
 Becky Fall, Manaton, and Lustleigh 
 Cleave, are also within easy distance. 
 The Valley of Widdecombe may be 
 included in the excursion to Hey tor 
 and Pdppon Tor. N. of Bovey (rt. 
 of the station), Bottor Rock and the 
 fine scenery toward Hennock are well 
 worth exploration; and there is a 
 grand view from Sliarpitor, rt. of the 
 road between Bovey and Moreton 
 Hampst-ad. 
 
 (a) Heytor is about 3 m. from 
 Bovey. The pedestrian, after cross- 
 ing the rly., should keep 1. at the fork 
 of the road, and at the 4 cross roads 
 (where the disused Heytor tramway 
 passes) take that marked by a direct- 
 ing post “ To Heytor and llsington.” 
 At the next fork keep 1., and when 
 the moor begins, turn up over it to 
 the top of the hill, where are some 
 rocks. Here Heytor and Rippon 
 Tor open in front ; and far beyond, 
 marked by its peaked form, is Brent 
 Hill. The whole panorama is mag- 
 nificent; and the hanging woods, 
 nearer at hand, make the scene in 
 some respects finer than that from 
 Heytor. This is now easily reached. 
 The traveller, no doubt, will already 
 have become acquainted from a dis- 
 tance with its remarkable crown of 
 granite, as its bold and singular 
 shape renders it a striking feature 
 
 in many views from the eastern 
 parts of the county. Arrived at the 
 dizzy pinnacle, he will find it to 
 consist of 2 tors (the E. tor has 
 been provided with steps and a 
 rail) — of little interest in com- 
 parison with the superb landscape 
 which opens to the sight, and for 
 the perfect enjoyment of which he 
 should rather climb the westernmost 
 rock. From that summit he will 
 behold in one view the area of the 
 South Hams, a splendid prospect of 
 woods, rivers, and “ the infinite of 
 smiling fields,” bounded by the sea. 
 Among the points to be made out 
 are Teignmouth with the “ ness 
 Torquay (or rather St. Mary Church 
 above it), Totnes, Chudleigh with 
 Ugbrooke above it, Newton, and the 
 whole extent of the great western 
 bay, from Bolt Head to Portland. 
 Towards the E. the hills are also 
 wooded and cultivated, though 
 crowned with the Bottor Rock, and 
 with other tor-like eminences, among 
 which Heitor and Blackingstone are 
 conspicuous ; but on the N. and W. 
 the face of nature wears a frown, 
 and gloomy moors stretch away into 
 the farthest distance. The grandeur 
 of this lonely region is, however, 
 most impressive, and must forcibly 
 arrest the traveller’s attention. There 
 is a solemnity in the deep-toned 
 colouring of the moor, in the still- 
 ness which reigns around, and the 
 vastness of the desolate view ; while 
 variety and animation are imparted 
 to such scenes by the glancing lights 
 and moving shadows, the purple 
 bloom of the heather, and the 
 changeful tints of the innumerable 
 hills. The twin peaks of Heytor 
 are as conspicuous over all this 
 country as the Langdale Pikes in 
 most of the great mountain views 
 of Westmoreland. The tor itself is 
 not the highest in this part of Dart- 
 moor. Rippon Tor (1549 ft.) and 
 Hameldon Tor opposite (1738 ft.) 
 are both loftier; but Heytor is so 
 marked by its position and great 
 
145 
 
 Bovey Heathfield : Excurisons . 
 
 Devonshire. Route 8.— Bovey 
 
 unbroken masses of granite that it 
 well deserves its name of the high 
 ( heah A.S.) tor. It gives name to 
 the Hundred ; and the hundred 
 court was probably held here in 
 ancient days. The hill was fre- 
 quented in still more distant times 
 for on the slope of the tor may be 
 observed a group of hut circles , and 
 the mins of an ancient boundary or 
 trackway , which traverses the hill 
 from N.W. to N.E. Immediately 
 below the summit, on the eastern 
 side, is the celebrated quarry (no 
 longer worked), well adapted as a 
 foreground for a sketch, and display- 
 ing magnificent walls of granite, 
 which have supplied the largest 
 blocks. London Bridge, the Fish- 
 mongers’ Hall, and the columns in 
 the library of the British Museum, 
 are of Hey tor granite. The stone 
 was carried down the declivity of the 
 moor on a granite tramway. It was 
 then shipped on the Stover Canal , 
 by which it was conveyed to Teign- 
 mouth. About 1 m. distant, on the 
 same side of the hill, is the hamlet 
 of Hey tor Town , with a small inn. 
 
 The nearest tor to Hey tor N.E. is 
 Leign Tor ; and a very delightful 
 walk may be taken from Heytor 
 along the side of Leign Tor, and 
 thence across the hill to the road 
 which leads to Becky Fall. The 
 views are very fine, with grand com- 
 binations of tors. Hound Tor is 
 conspicuous in front, across the 
 valley, and from some points its 
 masses of rock are backed by the 
 ridge of Hameldon, producing an 
 unusual effect. The coombe below 
 is Hound Tor coombe, and through 
 it runs the stream which supplies 
 Becky Fall. On the summit of 
 Leign Tor are hut circles, and on 
 the hill-top above are 2 cairns. The 
 hill is much intersected by track 
 lines. [Another and longer round 
 may be as follows : descend Leign 
 Tor to the stream, climb Hound Tor, 
 thence make your way across the 
 tors that hang over the Widdecombe 
 
 [Dev. Corn.'] 
 
 valley, and so descend on Widde- 
 combe church; thence by road to 
 Kippon Tor, whence return to Bovey. 
 This will be found a very fine walk, 
 and the changing forms and outlines 
 of the hills will nowhere be better 
 studied. Below Hound Tor, but on 
 the' same side of the coombe, is 
 Grey Tor , a very fine and lofty mass 
 of rocks, with mountain ash springing 
 here and there from the clefts, which 
 are hung with long grey lichens. 
 Carpets of whortleberry spread be- 
 tween them. Hound Tor itself is 
 one of the finest tors on Dartmoor. 
 It is capped by three distinct groups 
 of remarkable rocks, resembling the 
 pillars of a ruinous old temple, but 
 changing their forms as often as 
 the spectator shifts his position. 
 He may behold from one point a 
 stony mushroom of extraordinary 
 size (like the Cheesewring in Corn- 
 wall) ; and from another a fantastic 
 group bearing some resemblance to 
 a conclave of monsters. Should he 
 be tempted to dispel the illusion by 
 a scramble up the hill, he may be 
 assured that a nearer view of this 
 strange assembly will repay the ex- 
 ertion. There is no doubt that these 
 distinct blocks were once united, and 
 that their present appearance is 
 caused by lines of joint, which have 
 been acted upon, and the granite 
 between the blocks removed, by 
 various causes. Here also a very 
 obvious example of “ dip ” in granite 
 may be noticed. At the W. end the 
 beds are nearly horizontal ; at the 
 E. they curve downwards, and pro- 
 bably cause the valley between 
 Hound Tor and Leign Tor. The 
 remains of a kistvaeh in a circle of 
 stones may be found about a furlong 
 S. of the tor. At the head of the 
 valley the moor is seen in all its 
 grandeur and desolation, and the 
 slopes are covered with granite, 
 which is extensively quarried on 
 the heights. Houndtor Coombe is 
 a good specimen of those wild val- 
 leys on the border of Dartmoor 
 
 H 
 
146 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to 
 
 where the farmer has penetrated a 
 short distance, and rocks and bogs 
 are intermingled with oak woods 
 and fields.] 
 
 From Heytor a good road leads 
 toward Bippon Tor (2 m. W.), the 
 base of which it skirts. Saddleback , 
 a fine pile of rocks, is passed rt. It 
 commands a view over the Widde- 
 combe valley ; but a wider is gained 
 from Rippon Tor (1549 ft.); and, 
 westward, there is a fine prospect 
 over and beyond Ashburton. The 
 summit of the tor is marked by a 
 great pile of stones, probably gathered 
 for and used as the base of a beacon 
 (it was one of the heights which 
 .sent on the beacon flame — 
 
 “ Each with warlike tidings fraught, 
 
 Each from each the signal caught,” — 
 
 when the Armada was in sight off 
 the coast). There are here the re- 
 mains of a trackway , and J m. W. of 
 the summit, on the crest of the ridge, 
 the Nutcrackers , once a logan-stone, 
 but now immoveably fixed. It is, 
 however, an interesting object — a 
 stone about 16 ft. in length, poised 
 horizontally upon an upright rock, 
 which rises from a wild clatter (the 
 true Devonshire word) of granite 
 fragments. 
 
 (For Buckland Beacon , and the 
 grand scenery of the Dart below it, 
 the position of which is distinguish- 
 able from Rippon Tor, see Rte. 12. 
 Under Rippon Tor, N.W., but more 
 easily reached from Heytor, whence 
 it is distant about 2 m., is llsington , 
 where is a Perp. ch. of some in- 
 terest. (In it some of Lord Went- 
 worth’s fugitive troops barricaded 
 themselves after the flight from 
 Bovey in 1646). Near the ch. are 
 the ruins of an intended manor house , 
 begun, but never finished, by Sir 
 Henry Ford, Charles II.’s secretary 
 for Ireland. He was (probably) the 
 grandson of Ford the dramatist, who 
 was born 1586 at Bagtor (late Lord 
 Cranstoun) in this parish. There 
 is some picturesque scenery — broken 
 
 Moreton Hampstead . Sect. I. 
 
 and rocky ground with gnarled oak- 
 trees— about Bagtor). 
 
 Nearly opposite Rippon Tor a 
 road turns S. towards Widdecombe. 
 From it the view of Saddleback, 
 with one of the Heytor crests rising 
 above it, is fine. Widdecombe it- 
 self is described in Rte. 12, in con- 
 nection with the Buckland and 
 Holne chase scenery. For a pedes- 
 trian the round from Bovey by 
 Hound Tor to Widdecombe, and 
 thence by Rippon Tor and Heytor 
 again to Bovey, will be a day’s work, 
 but a very satisfactory one. 
 
 ( b ) Another very fine drive is 
 from Bovey to Heytor, and thence 
 along the road between Ashburton 
 and North Bovey, turning off from 
 it, however, where a branch road 
 leads to Manaton. Manaton Tor 
 may be visited ; and the return will 
 be under Bowerman’s Nose to Becky 
 Fall, and thence by the new road to 
 Bovey. 
 
 Manaton is about 4 m. from Bo- 
 vey (by this round, however, it will 
 be at least 6). A poor public-house 
 is the only accommodation for those 
 who hunger and thirst. The situa- 
 tion of . this village is wild and 
 beautiful ; woods, rocks, and singu- 
 larly shaped hills are seen from it 
 in every direction, and a fine broken 
 ridge (Manaton Tor) rises behind 
 the Vicarage. This is one of the 
 loveliest summits on the Dart- 
 moor border. It is crested with 
 rocks, and its sides are clothed with 
 stunted oaks, hollies, and mountain 
 ash. The ch. is particularly well 
 placed. There are some fragments 
 of stained glass, a good tower, Perp. 
 nave piers, and a fine old yew in the 
 churchyard. In a field to the E. of 
 it, and near the road, you may find 
 fragments of a small elliptical pound 
 or stone enclosure ; but this interest- 
 ing relic, like others on Dartmoor, 
 has been mutilated of late years. 
 Manaton Tor should be climbed 
 for the sake of the very fine view 
 
147 
 
 Devonshire. Boute 8. — Bovey 
 
 in all directions, but especially for 
 that into Lustleigh Cleave, which 
 it overhangs. Opposite Manaton 
 the granite tors are very imposing. 
 One rock, formed of five . layers 
 of stone, and rising to a height of 
 more than 30 ft., resembles a gi- 
 gantic human figure, and is known 
 as Bowerman 1 s Nose ; “ of which 
 name,” says Mr. Burt, in his notes 
 to Carrington’s ‘Dartmoor,’ “there 
 was a person in the Conqueror’s 
 time, who lived at Huntor or Hound- 
 tor in Manaton.” (Mr. Burt seems 
 to have possessed means of informa- 
 tion vouchsafed to no other person, 
 or to have consulted a special Domes- 
 day. There was a small manor 
 house under Hound Tor, held by a 
 Hugh of Hound Tor, temp. Kich. 
 I., according to Lysons). This 
 curious object rises from a clatter 
 about 1 m. S.W. of Manaton, and is 
 viewed to most advantage from the N. 
 When seen from the higher ground 
 on the S. it bears some likeness to a 
 Hindoo idol in a sitting posture — a 
 form which may often be traced 
 in granite piles ; for instance, in the 
 Armed Knight, seated among the 
 waves below the cliffs of the Land’s 
 End. Snakes, called in Devonshire 
 longcripples (coluber natrix) are said 
 to be numerous in this parish, and 
 Polwhele tells us of one which so 
 greatly alarmed the neighbourhood, 
 that “fancy, worked upon by fear, 
 had swelled it beyond the size of 
 the human body, had given it legs 
 and wings, and had heard it hiss 
 for miles around.” 
 
 The road from Manaton runs close 
 by Becky Fall, where is a cottage 
 belonging to the E. of Devon. The 
 small stream of the Becky, after 
 flowing some distance from its 
 source, here tumbles about 80 ft. 
 down an escarpment of granite. The 
 channel is, however, so broad and 
 deep, and heaped with so many 
 rocks, that in summer the water is 
 only heard in its stony bed ; yet the 
 spot is at all times romantic and 
 
 Heathfield : Excursions . 
 
 delightful, the ground being wooded, 
 and sloping abruptly to a dell. In the 
 winter the cascade frequently pre- 
 sents an imposing spectacle, thunder- 
 ing in volume over the steep. Here 
 the botanist may find some curious 
 mosses, and Lichen articulatus , a 
 rare plant. Becky is no doubt the 
 A.-S. bee — a hill stream, common in 
 the N. of England, but of rare oc- 
 currence among the “West Saxons.” 
 Osmunda regalis grows to very great 
 size in the neighbouring woods. 
 
 Following the new road to Bovey, 
 a very grand view is gained, looking 
 toward the opening of Lustleigh 
 Cleave. This view is alone worth 
 a special expedition. Between it 
 and Bovey a copper-mine will be 
 seen at work in a hollow under 
 Yarner Wood. 
 
 (c) Lustleigh Cleave will be de- 
 scribed at length as an excursion 
 from Lustleigh. But the pedestrian 
 may visit with advantage the 
 southern end of this wild Valley 
 from Bovey. He may follow the 
 road toward Becky Fall, and where 
 the grand view just mentioned opens, 
 he should keep the rough road that 
 leads downward rt. instead of follow- 
 ing the main track. By this he will 
 enter the wooded end of the Cleave, 
 and may, with some scrambling, 
 reach the masses of rock on its north- 
 eastern ridge. Another walk to be 
 recommended is from Becky Fall to 
 Water Farm, and thence to Water 
 Bock overhanging the W. side of 
 the Cleave. From this rock the 
 top of the ridge called Biddy Hill 
 may be followed, and its highest 
 point commands a view which will 
 not soon be forgotten. The whole 
 length of the rocky Cleave is seen 
 —wooded heights and ravines in 
 the fore-ground, and a distance of 
 hills and tors stretching far away 
 beyond. 
 
 N. of Bovey (rt. of the station) one 
 or two excursions should be made 
 among the hills which rise above the 
 H 2 
 
148 Route 8 . — Exeter to Moreton Hampstead. Sect. T. 
 
 valley of the Teign, and which bor- 
 der rt. the old high road from Bovey 
 to Moreton. 
 
 ( d ) Hennock and Bottor Bock , 
 This will be a walk (up and down 
 very steep hills) of about 4J m. 
 From Bovey take a road N. of the 
 ch., leading up a very steep hill, and 
 so narrow, particularly where in- 
 truded upon by boles of huge trees, 
 as scarcely to leave room for the 
 wains of the country. There are 
 fine views here and there from side 
 gates. On getting to 4 cross roads 
 at the gate of Hazlewood (Miss War- 
 ren) take a very narrow lane which 
 turns up 1. This leads to a field in 
 which is Bottor — an interesting mass 
 of trap (its fissures lined with byssus 
 aurea ) — now islanded in cultivation. 
 One block of shattered rock projects 
 like Bowerman’s Nose. The view is 
 magnificent. Hey tor and its com- 
 panions across the wide valley, the 
 Heathfield below, and a vast stretch 
 of cultivated country toward the sea. 
 2 concentric circles of stone, about 
 5 ft. high, the diam. of the outer 
 77 ft., were destroyed in 1842. They 
 stood about 300 yds. S.W. from Bot- 
 tor. Passing out of the field by the 
 gate, enter that immediately opposite, 
 where a field-path, opening views 
 into the Teign valley, leads to Hen- 
 nock ch. and village. The Church is 
 Perp., the caps of piers plain. An 
 indifferent screen (but retaining its 
 doors) remains. Paint and white- 
 wash here rule undisturbed. The 
 place was formerly and indeed still 
 is so remote that a story told of it 
 may perhaps have some truth. It is 
 said that when a vicar of Hennock, 
 one Anthony Lovitt, died, his son, of 
 the same name, took his place, al- 
 though not in orders. The parish- 
 ioners made no objections, and it 
 was not until some years afterwards, 
 when he tried to raise their tithes, 
 that they denounced him, thinking 
 that “if they were to pay all that 
 money they might as well have a 
 
 raal passon.” A lower road may be 
 taken for the return to Bovey, leading 
 by Stickwick. 
 
 (e) John Cannes Rocks should by 
 all means be visited. Turn 1. from 
 Mugford‘s Inn, and, after reaching the 
 Moreton road, take the 1st turning rt. 
 Follow the hill nearly to the top; 
 and when a white directing post is 
 reached, turn into the field below. 
 Here are John Canns Bocks — fine 
 masses among trees and brushwood. 
 The view differs from that gained at 
 Bottor. The foreground is much 
 wooded, and beyond are the ridges 
 of Hound Tor and Lustleigh Cleave, 
 affording most picturesquely inter- 
 secting lines. The view, like many in 
 this neighbourhood, is most striking 
 in early spring, when the oak-woods 
 are bright in their fresh leaves and 
 the ground is covered with wild 
 flowers. A path at the side of the 
 rocks is called “ John Cann’s path.” 
 John Cann, says the legend, was an 
 active royalist at Bovey, who for 
 some reason had laid himself open 
 to attacks from the Puritans. He 
 fled for safety to these rocks, where 
 provisions were secretly carried to 
 him, and where he hid a quantity of 
 treasure. The “ path” was worn by 
 his pacing at night. He was at last 
 tracked to this hiding-place by 
 bloodhounds, seized, carried to Exe- 
 ter, and hanged. His treasure has 
 never been found, and his spirit still 
 “ walks ” at the rocks. 
 
 (/) You may walk to Sharpitor 
 along the fields from Bottor, whence it 
 is distant about 1 m., or turn up a 
 lane on the Moreton road, which 
 will lead you through fine woods, 
 granite strewn under the oak-boughs, 
 to the tor. From this point the 
 Lustleigh woods are well seen, and 
 there is a broken, rocky foreground. 
 In the valley below is Lustleigh ch. 
 (A pedestrian may be recommended 
 to walk along this ridge all the way 
 from Bovey, descending at Lust- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 149 
 
 Route 8 . — Lustleigh Cleave . 
 
 leigh, where he may avail himself 
 of the rly.) 
 
 At Plumley , 3 m. 1. on the road to 
 Moreton, a number of bronze celts 
 were found about 1840. Some are 
 still preserved in the house. 
 
 Proceeding from Bovey, the next 
 stat. is, 8J in., Lustleigh. (Close to 
 the stat., rt., is a good, newly-built 
 Inn — the Cleave Hotel. Nearly op- 
 posite the stat. are some very fine 
 examples of spheroidal structure in 
 granite. The adjoining rock has 
 decayed, leaving the spheroidal 
 masses in situ.) A short distance 
 beyond is Lustleigh Church , with E. 
 Eng. portions in the chancel, a Norm, 
 font, a Dec. transept, and Perp. 
 nave. In the N. aisle are effigies of 
 a knight and lady (temp. Edw. III.?) 
 probably of the Dinham family; 
 and adjoining the S. porch is Sir 
 Wm. Prous’s chapel, with his effigy 
 (temp. Edw. II.). (The Prouses at 
 this time possessed the manor.) At 
 the threshold of the S. porch is an 
 inscribed stone of the Brito-Roman 
 era. There are 17 characters in 2 
 lines, but it is not easy to explain 
 them. The stone is of the same class 
 (no doubt sepulchral) and period as 
 others found in Devonshire. It is 
 to be regretted that it remains in 
 its present position. The ch. has 
 been well restored, and is beautifully 
 situated. 
 
 A very steep lane ascending 
 through woods, rt., will lead the 
 tourist to Lustleigh Cleave. But 
 this is a path for pedestrians only. 
 Those who drive to the Cleave will 
 find it most convenient to do so from 
 Bovey or from Moreton Hampstead 
 (see post). The N.W. end of the 
 Cleave is entered from Moreton. 
 The lane from Lustleigh stat. leads 
 to the top of the' N. ridge, where 
 the rocks are finest. The tourist 
 may be recommended to walk the 
 whole length of the Cleave, along 
 the ridge, and then descend to the 
 
 stream which flows through the 
 valley. Every spot however is 
 beautiful. The valley of Lustleigh 
 Cleave (cleof, A. S. = rock, the cleave 
 is strictly the rocky ridge which 
 bounds it) is one of those in which 
 granite acts as a scarecrow to im- 
 provement, and Nature is left free to 
 follow the bent of her own sweet 
 fancies. There is now a rly. stat. 
 within J m. of it; but it is still so 
 secluded, that were it not for the 
 rocks, which serve the traveller as a 
 landmark, there would be difficulty 
 in finding it. These conspicuous 
 objects roughen the hillside which 
 bounds it, and at the summit of the 
 ridge hang in crags so fancifully 
 shaped as to have acquired names 
 from the peasantry. One, ivy- 
 mantled, and massive as a ruin, is 
 called the Raven's Tower , having 
 formerly been a haunt of these 
 birds. Another, a favourite retreat 
 of Reynard, is distinguished by the 
 name of the Fox's Yard. At the 
 entrance of the valley the stream is 
 checked by a singular impediment. 
 The channel is deep, but filled to 
 the brim with masses of granite, 
 so that the water flows as it were 
 underground, but its murmurs are 
 heard as it forces its way through 
 the pores of this natural filter. The 
 stones are called the Horseman' s 
 Steps ( as if a man on horseback could 
 cross with care). A footpath leads 
 to them. The stream flows along 
 the skirts of an old wood which 
 climbs the acclivity of a hill among 
 moss-grown rocks ; and altogether 
 the scene is as beautiful as it is 
 curious. At certain seasons of the 
 year these “steps’' are passed by 
 salmon ; and in the winter frequently 
 buried under a flood, when a woody 
 recess below them, called Horseman's 
 Bay , is filled with water. The 
 angler should be informed that the 
 Bovey Brook , as this limpid rivulet 
 is called, is a notable trout-stream. 
 A little beyond the Horseman’s Steps 
 the traveller will obtain the best 
 
150 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to 
 
 view of the Cleave, and remark the J 
 charming irregularity of the hillside 
 on the rt., presenting an interchange 
 of wooded heights and hollows. On 
 the granite ridge to the 1. lies a logan 
 stone called the Nutcrackers , difficult 
 to find, but situated near the S. end 
 of the ridge, and on the Cleave side 
 of the summit. The mark for it is a 
 spherical mass of granite perched 
 aloft on the top of a conspicuous 
 earn. The Nutcracking Rock lies 
 just below, and S. of this object. It 
 is a small rock, about 5 ft. in length 
 and breadth, resting, as it were, upon 
 a keel, so that a push rolls it from 
 side to side; its progress, at each 
 vibration, being arrested by a stone 
 against which it knocks. Hence it 
 derives its name ; for a nut, being 
 inserted at the point of contact, is 
 thoroughly broken by a stroke of the 
 logan. The block next to it oscil- 
 lates in a similar manner, and is a 
 larger piece of granite ; but the for- 
 mer stone is so perfectly balanced, 
 that it can be moved with the little 
 finger. From this elevated position 
 the traveller may gain a geographical 
 idea of the Cleave and surrounding 
 country; and such knowledge may 
 be useful, as the hills in this beauti- 
 ful neighbourhood are so irregularly 
 grouped that it is difficult for a 
 stranger to direct his course with 
 certainty. He will observe that 
 3 valleys meet at the end of the 
 Cleave ; viz. the valley of Lustleigh, 
 in which the village of that name is 
 situated; that of the Cleave; and 
 Houndtor Coomb, which, winding 
 from the moor near Heytor, is joined 
 near Manaton by another valley, 
 descending from Hameldon Down. 
 The view is truly delightful; the 
 Bovey Heathfield is seen to the S., 
 the fantastic rocks and brown moors 
 of Heytor and Hound Tor to the W., 
 and the ch. of Manaton just peeping 
 over the western boundary of the 
 Cleave. The traveller may pass 
 from this secluded vale by the Horse- 
 man’s Steps, and ascend the path- 
 
 Moreton Hampstead. Sect. I. 
 
 way through the wood to the vil- 
 lage of 
 
 Manaton (see ante , Exc. from 
 Bovey), or he may keep more to the 
 S. through the wood, and reach 
 Becky Fall (ante, ib.). 
 
 At the N.W. end of the Cleave, 
 where it is entered by those coming 
 from Moreton, there is a picturesque 
 old water-mill. 
 
 The station beyond Lustleigh is 
 12 J m. Moreton Hampstead — (The 
 rly. ends here. During the summer 
 an omnibus runs hence — Mondays, 
 Wednesdays, and Fridays — to C hag- 
 ford, after the arrival of certain 
 trains), commonly called Morton, i.e. 
 Moor-town (Inns: White Hart — 
 tolerably comfortable ; White Horse). 
 This small place, situated in a wild 
 and beautiful country on the border 
 of Dartmoor, and swept by the purest 
 and most invigorating breezes, is 
 remarkable for its salubrity, which 
 the stranger may infer from the 
 healthful looks of the inhabitants. 
 The ch. (Perp.) has been plainly 
 restored. Its position is very beauti- 
 ful — on a sort of peninsula, sur- 
 rounded by deep valleys, and ringed 
 by a glorious circle of tors. The 
 field E. of the ch. is called the Sentry — 
 an unexplained word, often found in 
 similar connection with churches. 
 The houses are mean and thatched 
 (though some new houses, in which 
 lodgings may be found, are rising 
 near the station), and, with the ex- 
 ception of the poorhouse , which has 
 an arched arcade of the 17th centy., 
 there is nothing worth notice in the 
 town save an old cross and elm-tree 
 at the entrance of the ph.-yard. It 
 is said that the elm-tree had its 
 branches trained to support a stage 
 for dancing, and that the boughs 
 above afforded a pleasant perch for 
 the fiddler. The scenery in the 
 neighbourhood is of an exquisite 
 cast; the hills wild and rocky, and 
 covered with furze “so thick and 
 splendid that it may be compared to 
 
Devonshire. Route 8.- — Moreton 
 
 an embroidery of gold on velvet of 
 the richest green.” 
 
 The manor of Daccombe in this 
 parish was given by William de 
 Tracy, one of the murderers of 
 Becket, to the church of Canterbury, 
 to which it still belongs. It was 
 given as an oblation, to make some 
 amends for the crime of Tracy. 
 (See Stanley’s ‘Memorials of Cant.’ 
 Note F.). 
 
 Excursions from Moreton. Those 
 who do not care to linger among the 
 wilder scenes of Dartmoor may ob- 
 tain a sufficient notion of the district 
 by a day’s excursion from Moreton, 
 by Post bridge to Prince Town 
 (12 m.). This is described in Rte. 13. 
 Lustleigh Cleave is best visited from 
 Moreton by those who must drive to 
 it (see ante). Manaton , Houndtor, 
 and Heytor are within easy day’s 
 excursions (see ante). Fingle Bridge 
 (about 4 m.) is described 'post (Exc. 
 from Chagford). Wooston Castle , 
 above Clifford bridge, may be visited 
 from Moreton, and Moreton is per- 
 haps the best starting-point for a 
 visit to Grimspound. Blackingstone 
 Bock (2 m.) is interesting. 
 
 (The pedestrian may be advised 
 to walk from Moreton, by North 
 Bovey, across East Down Tor, de- 
 scending upon Manaton, and thence 
 to Bovey. North Bovey , on the litlle 
 river Hayne, has a Perp., ch., well 
 placed, and commanding a fine moor- 
 land view. It stands high, and on 
 the road from Chagford to North 
 Bovey there is a curious view of the 
 ch. across the river valley. East 
 Down Tor is conspicuous through- 
 out this country; but no hut-circles 
 or other remains have been found 
 on it.) 
 
 (a) Wooston Castle, an entrench- 
 ment of which only portions now 
 remain, is on the top of the hill 
 above Clifford Bridge, about 3 m. 
 from Moreton. For some distance 
 
 Hampstead: Excursions , 151 
 
 the road to it is the same as that to 
 Fingle Bridge, and the views are 
 fine. From the side of the hill of 
 Wooston Castle you look up the nar- 
 row gorge of the Teign, a very 
 striking view, with the height of 
 Prestonbury opposite. The en- 
 trenchment is an irregular oval, 
 faint where the hill is steep, but on 
 the S. the fosse is 19 ft. deep, and 
 the embankment high. The W. 
 flank has only a slight fosse; and 
 on the E. is a vallum as a covert 
 way down to the river. There are 
 some strong earthworks S. and E. 
 apart from the main vallum. (See 
 Prestonbury , post , for some further 
 remarks on these camps). 
 
 ( b ) Grimspound must on no ac- 
 count be neglected by any one who 
 desires to make himself properly 
 acquainted with the primseval anti- 
 quities of Dartmoor. It is situated 
 between Hameldon Tor and Hook- 
 nor Tor, about 7 m. W. of Moreton, 
 and 3 m. W.N.W. of Manaton. 
 From Moreton it may be reached on 
 foot or horseback, by pursuing the 
 Tavistock road 5 m., then turning 
 to the 1. and crossing the moor for 
 about 2 m. in a southerly direc- 
 tion. In a carriage it will be neces- 
 sary to proceed along the high road 
 6 m. to a small public-house near 
 Vitifer Mine (observe the old stone 
 cross where you turn from the high 
 road). Vitifer Mine (tin, and worth 
 delaying to see) lies in a valley to 
 the 1., and Grimspound is situated 
 high above it, 2 in. E. (Between 
 Vitifer and Grimspound are fine 
 examples of open tin works — here 
 called the “old men’s works.”) 
 ( From Manaton a person on foot 
 should direct his course up the val- 
 ley to the first farmhouse under 
 Heytree Down, then turn to the rt. 
 and follow the cart-track to the foot 
 of Hameldon Down (on which may 
 be seen remains of the central track- 
 way or boundary — see Introd ., and 
 Berry Pound on the N.E. declivity) 
 
152 
 
 Route 8 .— Exeter to Moreton Hampstead . Sect. 1. 
 
 — and then follow the stream to its 
 source on the summit of the hill. 
 There he will find himself on the 
 naked moor, and, by walking a little 
 distance down the declivity, will 
 open to view the grey stones of 
 Grimspound). This is the most re- 
 markable of the walled villages or 
 “ pounds ” on Dartmoor. “ It has a 
 diameter of 502 ft. by 447 ft., in- 
 cluding the walls ; and 25 hut-circles 
 still remain within its area. The 
 walls, composed of large granite 
 blocks, are between 9 and 10 ft. 
 thick. The water at one end of the 
 area results from the choking of 
 the neighbouring brook, which does 
 not run through it, as has often been 
 asserted. Here, no doubt, the old 
 road passed from the E. side of 
 Dartmoor, traversing this difficult 
 hilly country toward the W. ; and 
 the position of the old bridge (at 
 what is now called Post Bridge) 
 shows that it ran in former times 
 directly in the line of Grimspound, 
 and of the valley in which it stands, 
 between the heights of Hameldon 
 and Hooknor Tor. ‘‘ The site has 
 not been chosen without due consi- 
 deration of its merits in a military 
 point of view. For though we 
 should now consider it to be com- 
 manded by the hills on either side, 
 
 . . . this was no objection in olden 
 times for the position of a fortified 
 town. The strong city of Mycenae 
 in Greece is more immediately under 
 a lofty hill from which every move- 
 ment of the garrison could be de- 
 scried ; and the same may be said of 
 Grtaves-ash in Northumberland and 
 other places . . . The hut-circles of 
 Grimspound are of the usual size; 
 the doorways generally turned S. 
 The original entrance was on the E. 
 side, about 15 ft. S. of the present 
 passage, which has been forced 
 through the wall, and by which the 
 modern road leads toward Manadon.” 
 — G. Wilkinson. On the other hand, 
 very competent observers do not re- 
 gard Grimspound as having been 
 
 a place of defence at all; and in- 
 deed it is difficult to see why it 
 should have been so, any more than 
 the other pounds (this word is the 
 A. S. pund = fold) and enclosures on 
 Dartmoor ; which to all appearance 
 were intended rather as protections 
 against wolves and other denizens 
 of the forest, than as tribal fast- 
 nesses. Dartmoor itself was a great 
 fastness ; and the strong camps on 
 its borders show means of defence 
 very different from anything to be 
 found on the moor itself. The ety- 
 mology of Grimspound is possibly 
 the same as that of the many 
 “ Grimsdikes ” which occur in many 
 parts of England. In these, “ Grim ” 
 appears to be equivalent to “ boun- 
 dary.” Grimspound would there- 
 fore signify the pound or enclosure 
 on the “ boundary ; ” and it should 
 be remarked that the central track- 
 way, marking the division between 
 N. and S. Dartmoor (see Introd.) 
 passes on Hameldon close by. (The 
 A.-S. Grima — the grim or evil one, 
 has also been suggested — and the 
 word would then be equivalent to 
 the many “ Devil’s Bridges,” or 
 “ Devil’s Bocks,” found everywhere, 
 and always implying a great and 
 uncertain antiquity). The locality 
 is wild and desolate, and well cal- 
 culated to encourage the train of 
 thought which such venerable relics 
 may suggest. The declivity slopes 
 to a barren valley (the site of Vitifer 
 Mine) : rock-strewn eminences rise 
 .on either side, and lonely hills close 
 the view. On Cliallacombe Down a 
 stone avenue (double, or formed by 3 
 rows of stones) may be traced N. 
 and S. about 80 yards : and on 
 Hooknor Tor, just N. of Grimspound, 
 are a number of hut-circles. The 
 traveller should ascend this tor so 
 as to look down upon Grimspound. 
 He can then, if bound to Moreton 
 Hampstead, strike over the moor 
 towards the N., when he will shortly 
 reach the high road at about the 
 5tli milestone from his destination. 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 153 
 
 Route 8 .~ 
 
 If viewed by sunset this interesting 
 old monument will long linger in 
 the memory. 
 
 (c) Blacking stone Rock , 3 m. from 
 Moreton, 1. of the old road to Duns- 
 ford Bridge, is a very fine mass of 
 granite, commanding a vast pro- 
 spect. There are many rock basins 
 on it, and the tor has been said (like 
 others on Dartmoor) to show distinct 
 traces of glacial action. This, how- 
 ever, is at best uncertain ; although 
 it is probable that these highlands 
 were at one time capped with ice. 
 There is a pile of rocks near the 
 Blackingstone bearing the modern 
 name of “ The Druid’s Altar.” 
 King Arthur is said to have made 
 this tor (Blackingstone) his stand- 
 ing point, when the Arch-enemy 
 flung quoits at him from Heitor 
 (see ante ), which he returned with 
 interest. 
 
 The high road from Moreton to 
 Chagford (4 m.) is tolerably pleasant, 
 but gives little notion of the beautiful 
 scenery we are approaching. Chag- 
 ford itself is a straggling village, 
 which within the last 5 or 6 years 
 has become a place of considerable 
 resort in the summer. (In the sum- 
 mer an omnibus runs occasionally 
 (3 times a-week) to the station at 
 Moreton Hampstead ; and a coach 
 starts every morning to meet the 
 Exeter train at North Tawton, re- 
 turning to Chagford in the afternoon. 
 Inns: Moor Park Hotel (Bolt’s) at 
 the N. end of the village (best and 
 very comfortable. There is a table 
 d’hote in the summer, and a billiard 
 room is provided.) Three Crowns,— 
 a very picturesque old house, oppo- 
 site the ch. King’s Arms. There 
 are many lodgings in and about 
 Chagford. By far the pleasantest 
 lodging-house is that at Warren Hill, 
 about 1 m. from the village. It com- 
 mands a fine view. Light carriages 
 are to be hired at Ferrott’s in the 
 
 - Chagford . 
 
 principal street, and chaises at the 
 inns. Perrott himself is well known 
 as the “ Dartmoor Guide ; ” and 
 under his care or that of his sons 
 (who are not less competent) the 
 stranger who shrinks from solitary 
 adventure may explore in safety the 
 wildest recesses of the moor.) 
 
 Chagford, made in 1328 one of the 
 Stannary towns for Devonshire (see 
 Introd .), is situated on elevated 
 ground in the midst of deep dells 
 and half-reclaimed hills of a very 
 beautiful character. The two rocky 
 hills which overhang the village on 
 the S. side, are Middleton Down and 
 Neighdon. The place is recom- 
 mended by physicians for its pure 
 and bracing air, and the lovely 
 scenery in the neighbourhood may 
 well do its part toward the restoration 
 of the invalid. In winter, however, 
 Chagford is desolate and difficult of 
 approach ; and if an inhabitant be 
 asked at this season concerning his 
 locality, he calls it, in sad tones, 
 “ Chagford, good Lord ! ” In sum- 
 mer it is picturesque and accessible, 
 and then the exulting designation 
 is “ Chaggiford, and what d’ye 
 think?” During the rebellion the 
 royalists, under Sir John Berkeley, 
 made an attack on this village, 
 when, says Clarendon, “ they lost 
 Sidney Godolphin, a young gentle- 
 man of incomparable parts. He re- 
 ceived a mortal shot by a musket, a 
 little above the knee, of which he 
 died on the instant, leaving the mis- 
 fortune of his death upon a place 
 which could never otherwise have 
 had a mention in the world.” Cla- 
 rendon, however, it must be remem- 
 bered, wrote before handbooks were 
 in request, for it is impossible to 
 enumerate all the romantic scenes 
 round Chagford. At all events the 
 stranger will do well to wander 
 about the course of the Teign, and 
 down by the village of Gidleigh 
 along the skirt of the moor. Chag- 
 ford is justly a favourite retreat of 
 artists, and the Three Crowns, with 
 H 3 
 
154 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to 
 
 its thatched roof and ivied porch, 
 was for many years an irresistible 
 bait; but it is now denuded of its 
 ivy and partly modernised. It was 
 formerly the dower house attached 
 to Whyddon Park, and was built by 
 Judge Whyddon in the reign of 
 James I. Godolphin — so runs the 
 local tradition — was killed in the 
 porch. An old water-mill at Holy- 
 street, about 1 m. W., is an excel- 
 lent Subject for the pencil although 
 the roof was re-thatched in 1857. 
 It had been previously painted by 
 Creswick in 3 pictures, viz. 1, with 
 the wheel at rest ; 2, with the wheel 
 in motion ; 3, from another point of 
 view, with the entrance and footway 
 of mossy stones. The botanist in 
 his rambles will notice the profusion 
 of ferns. The Tasselled Pteris , the 
 Cleft Asplenium Trichomanes , many 
 varieties of Polypodium , and strange 
 Lady Ferns are found here. Neaj.’ 
 the village of Chagford the mineral 
 Scapolite was discovered by Mr. 
 Ormerod. This is the only locality 
 in Great Britain where it has been 
 found. 
 
 Chagford Church (ded. to St. Mi- 
 chael) is a fine specimen of a Perp. 
 granite church. The tower is good. 
 There is a parclose screen and an 
 Elizabethan monument to the Whyd- 
 dons. The ch. has been well re- 
 stored, chiefly by the care of the vicar, 
 the Rev. W. Hames. There was an 
 early Dec. ch. here (ded. 1261), but 
 the frequent recurrence of “ gurges ” 
 in the bosses of the roof, shows that 
 the present ch. was built when the 
 Gorges held the manor, — at the end 
 of the 15th centy. 
 
 The excursions to be made from 
 Chagford are numerous': and the 
 visitor will find nooks and corners 
 in all directions in which he will 
 delight to linger. 
 
 The neighbourhood is rich in 
 antiquities. Within the compass of 
 a walk or ride are the British camps 
 
 Moreton Hampstead . Sect. I. 
 
 above Fingle Bridge ; the cromlech 
 called the Spinsters’ Rock; stone 
 avenue and so-called Druidical cir- 
 cles on Scorhill Down, under Sit- 
 taford Tor, and near Fern worthy; 
 a rude bridge on the N. Teign ; 
 hut-circles near Kestor; and the 
 remains of a castle at Gidleigh. 
 Chagford is also a convenient start- 
 ing-place for a hunt after Cran - 
 mere , “ the mother of the Dartmoor 
 rivers,” a pool which has been in- 
 vested with a certain mystery by 
 the extreme wildness of its situa- 
 tion, and the difficulty of traversing 
 the morasses which surround it. 
 Other expeditions may of course be 
 undertaken across and about Dart- 
 moor. (A 3 days’ pedestrian excur- 
 sion may he highly recommended, 
 — ls£ day , from Chagford by Caw- 
 sand beacon, Yes Tor, and the W. 
 Okement to the Dartmoor Hotel , 
 a clean little roadside inn on the 
 road from Lidford to Okehampton, 
 or to the Manor Hotel by the water- 
 fall at Lidford. This walk will be 
 about 17 m. For the country passed 
 see Rte. 6. 2nd day . By Great Mis 
 Tor to Prince Town (Rte 13). 3 rd 
 day. From Prince Town back to 
 Chagford, visiting Grimspound (see 
 ante ), and then striking N. over the 
 moor, so as to come upon the sources 
 of the Teign. Follow the river to 
 Chagford. The first of these days 
 will take the longest distance ; the 
 others will be walks of 14 or 15 m.). 
 
 The antiquities near Chagford can 
 be seen in 2 days. On the first you 
 may visit Fingle Bridge, Spinsters’ 
 Rock, and return to Chagford by 
 Gidleigh. On the second you can 
 proceed by Holy-street and Gidleigh 
 Park to Scorhill Circle ; ascend 
 Kestor ; follow the stream to Sitta- 
 ford Tor ; inspect the bridge on the 
 Teign, and the circles called the 
 Grey Wethers ; and return by the 
 Fernworthy circle to Chagford. 
 These, however, will be days of 
 hard work, and the examination 
 of the ancient remains will ne- 
 
Devonshire. Route 8. — Chagford: Excursions. 
 
 cessarily be hurried. A week may 
 very well be passed in explor- 
 ing the neighbourhood of Chagford. 
 Whyddon Park , about 1 m. from the 
 village, should not be missed. It is 
 not included in either of the days’ 
 excursions suggested above. The 
 chief points of interest may be de- 
 scribed in the order there proposed. 
 
 (a) Fingle Bridge , on the Teign, 
 may be reached from Chagford by a 
 road which passes rt. of Whyddon 
 Park and Cranbrook Castle, and 
 then turns off to the 1. It is better, 
 however, to hire one of Perrott’s 
 traps, driving in it by Sandy Park 
 to a gate (3 m.) opening on Piddle- 
 ton Down. From this point the 
 carriage should be sent round to the 
 village of Drewsteignton, where you 
 can meet it after the following walk. 
 — Follow the path which has been 
 cut into the side of the hill above the 
 river, until Fingle Bridge appears 
 below. A path will lead you to it. 
 The views for the whole distance are 
 superb ; and the valley of the Teign 
 from Whyddon Park, by Fingle 
 Bridge, to Clifford Bridge, affords 
 one of the finest stretches of roman- 
 tic scenery in Devonshire. Soon after 
 passing through the gate of Piddle- 
 ton Down, Huntstor is seen rt., with 
 a descent in long, bare ridges to the 
 river. Opposite is Whyddon Park, 
 a wild hillside covered with aged 
 oaks and moss-grown rocks. Farther 
 on is Sharpitor, fine in outline and 
 colour. At the end, shutting up the 
 valley, towers the cone of Preston- 
 bury, with a British intrenchment 
 on its summit. Besides following 
 the walk, those who can buffet with 
 briars should scramble (at least for 
 some distance) along the side of 
 the stream. The brake is in places 
 almost impenetrable, but the scenery 
 is of a character to repay any amount 
 of exertion. Near a bend of the 
 river, in the channel of the stream, 
 but close to the bank,— between 
 Huntstor and Sharpitor, — lies a well- 
 
 155 
 
 known log an stone. This great frag- 
 ment, about 12 ft. in length by 6 in. 
 height and width has certainly not 
 fallen from the hill above it, by 
 whatever agency it may have been 
 conveyed to its present position. 
 “This rock is of hard, angular, 
 feldspathic granite, and rests upon 
 granite. It is in the carbonaceous 
 district, about \ m. E. of the point 
 where the Dartmoor granite ceases ; 
 it is therefore not in situ.” — G. W. 
 Ormerod. It still oscillates freely 
 on its point of support. Polwhele 
 informs us 1 that he moved it with 
 one hand in 1797. 
 
 Fingle Bridge (the etymology is 
 quite uncertain) to which there is a 
 descent from the path we have been 
 following, is generally considered 
 the most beautiful spot on the 
 Teign. The scenery, however, for 
 2 m. above it, is worthy of equal 
 praise. The bridge is itself a very 
 picturesque old structure, narrow 
 and buttressed, based on rocks, and 
 mantled with ivy. The locality is 
 secluded, and the river shut in 
 by towering hills rising to a' great 
 height. The 1. bank soars upward 
 so abruptly as to form precipices 
 and a slide for the debris of the 
 rocks. At its summit is the old 
 camp of Prestonbury Castle, in form 
 a parallelogram, the area about 250 
 ft. from E. to W., and 150 ft. from 
 N. to S. There is a high vallum N ; 
 S., where the hill is precipitous, it is 
 slight. There are many outworks. 
 The entrances were on the N., E., 
 and W. sides. The whole comprised 
 about 25 acres. Prestonbury may 
 be of British origin. This camp is, 
 however, commanded by another, 
 called Cranbrook Castle , on the oppo- 
 site side of the river. Cranbrook is 
 of irregular form, circular towards 
 the N.E. and S.E., but almost square 
 in other quarters; on its S. side it 
 has a high rampart and a deep 
 ditch. On its northern side the 
 steepness of the hill formed the only 
 defence. The mound is composed 
 
Sect. i. 
 
 156 * Route 8 . — Exeter to Moreton Hampstead . 
 
 of fragments of stone mingled with 
 earth; but the antiquary will ob- 
 serve with regret that from this old 
 rampart the material is taken for the 
 repair of the neighbouring roads. 
 The ascent from the bridge towards 
 Cranbrook Castle is by zigzags 
 through a dense coppice, and at one 
 of the angles the wood opens and 
 displays a very beautiful vista of 
 “many-folded hills,’’ the eye glan- 
 cing up the course of the river 
 through a group of wooded promon- 
 tories, which alternately project 
 from the opposite sides, and appear 
 as if they had been cut from recesses 
 which front them. A mill is pret- 
 tily situated a short distance below 
 the bridge, and the miller, who 
 gravely offends by diverting the 
 water from the bed of the stream, 
 provides, in deprecation of the tra- 
 veller’s resentment, a parlour and 
 kitchen, with which parties bringing 
 their own provisions are accommo- 
 dated. 
 
 Dean Merivale (‘ Hist, of the Ko- 
 reans under the Empire,* vol. vi., p. 
 28) “is disposed to regaid the 
 strong camps which guard on either 
 side the narrow g rge of the Teign 
 as having witnessed the final strug- 
 gles between Roman and Danmo- 
 nian. The scene is at any rate pic- 
 turesque enough for the last act of 
 the drama ; and the antiquary, as he 
 traces the strong lines of Wooston, 
 or struggles upward to the watch- 
 tower of Prestonbury, may please 
 himself with the conjecture that it 
 was during the attack on one of 
 these fortresses that the life of Ves- 
 pasian was saved by his son Titus, 
 then a novice in arms. The inci- 
 dent occurred, at all events, during 
 this western campaign.” — Quart 
 Rev., vol. 105. It should be re- 
 marked that these 3 camps — Woos- 
 ton, Prestonbury. and Cranbrook — 
 defended the main northern pass 
 into the hilly country of Dartmoor 
 from enemies which might approach 
 through the valleys of the Exe or of 
 
 the lower Teign. The approaches 
 to Dartmoor alone are protected by 
 such camps as these. On the moor 
 itself there are none. 
 
 (The gorge through which the 
 Teign passes, from Fingle to Clif- 
 ford Bridge is exceedingly fine, and 
 the pedestrian, should he have the 
 leisure, is advised to explore it. 
 This may be done by scrambling 
 along the river- side, or by paths 
 higher up the banks. The view 
 from Prestonbury will show at once 
 the character of the pass.) 
 
 A path through fir plantations, 
 turning 1. from that cut along Pid- 
 dleton Down (already followed) leads 
 to Drewsteignton (1 m.); or you 
 may take the lane up the hill, turn- 
 ing 1. after passing Fingle Bridge. 
 
 ( b ) JJrewsteignton stands on high 
 ground. It is unnecessary to dis- 
 cuss the probability of a derivation 
 proposed for the name — “ the Druids’ 
 town on the Teign.” This belongs 
 to the speculations of by-past Da- 
 vieses and Vallanceys. It is really 
 “Drogo’s” or “ Drewe’s ” Teignton, 
 and is named from a certain Drewe 
 or Drogo, who held the manor in the 
 reign of Hen. II., as King’s Teignton 
 and Bishop's Teignton are called 
 after their respective proprietors. 
 The village is provided with some ale- 
 houses, of which the 4 Victory * is the 
 best. The Church has a Perp. tower 
 of granite, with a Dec. window (pre- 
 served from an older ch.), let into 
 its W. wall ; the nave is Perp. ; the 
 chancel modern, and very bad. The 
 ch. stands well, and a short dis- 
 tance beyond it, E., there is a good 
 view toward Prestonbury and Fingle. 
 But the best point of view is from 
 the garden of the vicarage, which 
 commands the pass through which 
 the river struggles, with Preston- 
 bury towering in front. 
 
 There are very large limestone 
 quarries in this parish. Many beds 
 of lime-rock occur ; and in one of 
 the lower the fossil Bosidonia is 
 
157 
 
 Devonshire. Route 8. — Drewsleignton — - Bradmere Pool . 
 
 found. The whole of this country 
 is in the “ carboniferous ” district. 
 (See Introd. “ Geology.”) 
 
 At Drewsteignton the carriage 
 should be in waiting. A road leads 
 W. about 2 m. to the well-known 
 
 (c) Cromlech , called the Spinster’s 
 Bock. This is on a farm called 
 Shilston ( Selvestan in Domesday), a 
 name which has been interpreted 
 “ shelf-stone,” with a possible re- 
 ference to the cromlech. This is 
 called the Spinsters’ Rock, from a 
 tradition that 3 spinsters (who were 
 spinners ) erected it one morning be- 
 fore breakfast ; but “ may we not,” 
 says Mr. Rowe (‘Peramb. of Dart- 
 moor’), “ detect in this legend of the 
 3 fabulous spinners the terrible 
 Yalkyriur of the dark mythology of 
 our northern ancestors —the ' Fatal 
 Sisters , the choosers of the slain, 
 whose dread office was to 4 weave 
 the warp and weave the woof of 
 destiny ’ ? ” — They are rather per- 
 haps the “ Fates” of Anglo-Saxon 
 heathendom, the “ mighty wives ” 
 who were spinners and weavers, and 
 had much in common with the 
 Yalkyriur. (See Kemble, vol. i.) 
 Polwhele informs us that the legend 
 varies, and that for the 3 spinsters 
 some have substituted 3 young men 
 and their father, who brought the 
 stones from the highest part of 
 Dartmoor ; and in this phase of the 
 legend has been traced an obscure 
 tradition of Noah and his 3 sons. 
 The Spinsters’ Rock consists of a 
 table-stone about 15 ft. in length by 
 10 ft. in breadth, supported by 3 pil- 
 lars 7 ft. high, so that most people 
 can walk under it erect. (Many 
 cromlechs exist which have only 3 
 supports — those at Lanyon and Pen- 
 darves in Cornwall, for example. 
 See Introd.) The hill on which it 
 stands commands an excellent view 
 of Cawsand Beacon. The cromlech, 
 the finest and most perfect, if not the 
 only one in Devon, fell during 
 the spring of 1862. It would per- 
 
 haps have remained in its original 
 state had a few yards of greensward 
 been preserved about it ; but the 
 plough was driven close round the 
 imposts, and the long-continued 
 rains of the season had saturated 
 the soil. It was, however, replaced 
 in November of the same year, at 
 the suggestion of Mr. G. W. Ormerod, 
 and at the expense of the Rev. W. 
 Ponsford, the late rector of Drews- 
 teignton ; and the stones occupy, as 
 nearly as possible, their former posi- 
 tions. It was needful to clear away 
 the soil under and about the crom- 
 lech to place the machinery for 
 raising the quoit or covering stone 
 (estimated to weigh 1 6 tons) ; the 
 soil did not appear to have been 
 disturbed, and no remains were 
 found. (A record of the fall and 
 restoration of the cromlech, by Mr. 
 G. W. Ormerod, will be found in the 
 ‘Trans, of the Devon Association,’ 
 vol. iv.) Like other cromlechs, this 
 is no doubt a Sepulchral monument. 
 About 100 yds. beyond the crom- 
 lech, on the other (N.) side of .the 
 lane, is a pond of water, of about 3 
 acres, called Bradmere Pool , prettily 
 situated in a wood, and well worth 
 visiting, especially by the artist. 
 Remark the distant views of Caw- 
 sand, seen beyond the trees. The 
 “ broad mere ” is said to be un- 
 fathomable, and to remain full to the 
 brim during the driest seasons. It 
 it really the result of mine-works, 
 and of no great antiquity. An old 
 “ adit ” passes from it in a S.E. di- 
 rection, coming out below Shilston 
 farm. The filling up of this adit 
 brought the pool into existence. 
 The country people have a legend 
 of a passage formed of large stones 
 leading underground from Bradmere 
 to the Teign, near the logan-stone. 
 
 [Some very interesting relics ex- 
 isted (until at least 1838— they have 
 since been wickedly destroyed) at 
 no great distance from the cromlech ; 
 — (on the common above it, about 280 
 
158 
 
 Sect. t. 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to 
 
 yds. W.N.W.) There were 2 con- 
 centric circles of stone, the inner 
 circle having entrances formed by 
 parallel lines of upright stones, facing 
 the cardinal points — that to the N. 
 being 65 paces in length, and 5 
 broad. The outer circle besides 
 these had avenues diverging N.E., 
 S.E., S.W., S.E. A smaller -circle 
 apparently intersected the larger E., 
 and an avenue passed from it east- 
 ward. The arrangement of these 
 circles and avenues differed from 
 that of any others hitherto found on 
 or near Dartmoor ; and their destruc- 
 is greatly to be regretted. But it 
 is almost idle to protest against such 
 Vandalism.] 
 
 From Bradmere Pool the tourist 
 may return to Chagford by Sandy- 
 park; or, making a longer round, 
 he may proceed by cross lanes to 
 Throwleigh (2J m.), thence to Gid- 
 leigh Castle (2 m.), and regain Chag- 
 ford (3 m.) by Holy Street. Gid- 
 leigh, however (except the ch. and 
 castle), is best visited in the 2nd 
 round — byGidleigh “ Church-town” 
 to Scorhill Down, and so to Kestor. 
 
 ( d ) Throwleigh has been already 
 noticed (Rte. 6). The objects of 
 interest here are the ch. and Shel- 
 stone Pound, on Ctannaborough 
 Common, at least 1 m. beyond the 
 village ; Shelstone Farm, with fine 
 ash-trees about it, and a date, 16 — (?) 
 over the door, is picturesque, and 
 deserves a passing glance. The 
 summit of Cawsand is about 1J m. 
 from the moor-gate at Shelstone, 
 and the ascent from this point may 
 be made easily on horseback. (See 
 Rte. 6.) 
 
 (e) The road to Gidleigh Park 
 lies by 
 
 Holy Street , a romantic hamlet, 
 about 1 m. W„ close to the confluence 
 of the N. and S. Teign. The name, 
 which it is difficult to explain satis- 
 factorily, has given rise to a conjec- 
 
 Moreton Hampstead . 
 
 ture that a “ sacred Druidical road ” 
 once passed this way from the crom- 
 lech at Shilston to the circle on 
 Scorhill Down (but no one need be- 
 lieve this unless he chooses). Here 
 there is a mill wonderfully pictu- 
 resque (see ante : it is that painted 
 by Creswick); and J m. further W., 
 on the river’s S. bank, the Puckie or 
 Puggie Stone , which commands an 
 excellent view of the wild glen of 
 Gidleigh Park. 
 
 Gidleigh Park (Rev. A. Whip- 
 ham — the house is occupied by 
 — Desborough, Esq.) is well known 
 as a magnificent scene of rock and 
 wood, occupying the deep valley of 
 the N. Teign from the confluence 
 of the 2 streams for a considerable 
 distance upward. The river here 
 dashes and struggles among great 
 boulders of granite. The slopes are 
 forest wilds, where oaks, birches, and 
 mountain-ash trees overhang masses 
 of rock, or open here and there round 
 beds of heather and whortleberry. 
 There is a very fine scene near the 
 house, where the wood almost closes 
 above the stream, and rhododen- 
 drons, planted as undergrowth, have 
 become large trees. Osmunda regalis 
 grows plentifully in swamps near 
 the river. Toward the upper part 
 of the ‘‘chase” (as the so-called 
 park really is), on the rt. bank, rises 
 a round hill of heather, crowned with 
 the “ ruins ” of a modern house, occu- 
 pied for but a short period by its 
 builder, and deserted after his death. 
 From it there is a very fine view 
 over the glen, with a distance of 
 dusky hills and tors. 
 
 (e) A road leads through the 
 park, by the house, to Gidleigh 
 Church ; but this is not public, and 
 it will be necessary to follow a lane 
 (passed before reaching the entrance 
 of the park) which will bring you to 
 the ch. and castle (1 m.), which are 
 close together. The Church is Perp., 
 with a curiously ill-proportioned 
 tower. There is a Perp. screen, gilt 
 
159 
 
 Devonshire. Route 8. — Gidleigh— Scorhill Circle . 
 
 and coloured, on the lower panels of 
 which are figures of saints and evan- 
 gelists. At either end are St. George 
 (?) in armour, and St. Lewis (?) 
 crowned, holding the crown of thorns. 
 All have been “restored/' like the 
 ch. itself. There are some frag- 
 ments of old stained glass in the E. 
 window of the S. aisle. The granite 
 pulpit and lecterns are heavy, and 
 not satisfactory. The Castle is a pic- 
 turesque fragment, dating appa- 
 rently from the 14th centy. It is 
 little more than a large square tower, 
 and does not seem to have been ever 
 more extensive. The lower chamber 
 has a barrel vault ; and 2 staircases 
 remain. Gidleigh belonged, as early 
 as the reign of Hen. II., to the fa- 
 mily of Prouz or Prous. They held 
 it until Edw. II., when it passed by 
 an heiress to Mules, and then to Da- 
 marell. At a much later period it 
 became the property of a family 
 taking name from the place, and 
 long resident here. 
 
 (/) The road leading by Gidleigh 
 ch. will bring you out on Scorhill 
 Down , at the farther end of which, 
 and near the confluence of one of 
 the many Wallabrooks (Wealha = 
 the Welshman's (Briton's) brook?) 
 with the N. Teign, is 
 
 Scorhill Circle (locally the Long- 
 stones ), the finest example in the 
 county (see Introd.). 29 stones are 
 standing, and 2 fallen, out of about 
 55 ; though the spaces vary too 
 much to enable us to arrive at a 
 satisfactory estimate of the real 
 number. The grey stones are very 
 conspicuous, and are well marked out 
 from the surrounding moor. A cart- 
 track passes through the circle. The 
 diameter of the circle is 90 ft. The 
 stones are of various sizes, but there 
 is one nearly 8 ft. and another 6 ft. 
 in height. Adjoining this circle, 
 on the Wallabrook, is an ancient 
 bridge, or clam, of a single stone, 
 15 ft. in length ; and in the bed of 
 the N. Teign, a little below the 
 
 junction with the Wallabrook (op- 
 posite the boundary of Batworthy 
 Farm), is a large pierced block of 
 granite, called the Tolmen. The 
 rock is pierced quite through, the 
 hollow rounded, smooth, and almost 
 polished at the rim. It is in fact 
 a “-rock-basin/' which has been 
 formed by the action of the river. 
 At the sides are small basins still in 
 course of enlargement ; and others 
 exist on the neighbouring rocks. Of 
 course the tolmen and all the rocky 
 river-bed are under water in time of 
 flood. 
 
 The river is here very wild and 
 rocky, and the whole scene is strik- 
 ing. The rt. bank is partly wooded, 
 and an island in the stream, planted 
 with Scotch fir, adds greatly to the 
 effect. Walks have been cut on 
 this side (which is not open to the 
 public). 
 
 Crossing the Wallabrook and the 
 N. Teign, the next points for the 
 visitor .are the avenues below Shuffle 
 Down. Keeping the enclosures of 
 Batworthy on his 1., he should 
 turn, when they cease, slightly to 
 the rt., and he will soon strike 
 on the first avenue. These “ stone 
 rows” or “ parallel-litha ” are 5 
 in number. That first met with, 
 140 yds. long, terminates at a small 
 triple circle of stones. A 2nd runs, 
 not parallel with the former, but 
 very near it, rt., also for 140 yds. 
 The next avenue, beyond, can now 
 be traced for 110 yds., and ends in 
 a dilapidated cairn. The 4th, 126 
 yds. long, ends near the Longstone 
 Pillar , a granite block, about 12 ft. 
 high, finely coloured with grey and 
 yellow lichens, and slightly ribbed 
 at the top, — recalling (but here the 
 marks are far less distinct) the “ rib- 
 bing " of the Devil’s Arrows at Bo- 
 roughbridge. A 5th avenue, the 
 greater part of which has been des- 
 troyed, extended 217 yds. S. of the 
 Pillar to the Three Boys , — 3 granite 
 blocks, of which 2 have been re- 
 moved — possibly parts of a cromlech. 
 
160 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to 
 
 All the avenues are from 3 to 4 ft. 
 wide, and the stones forming them 
 are about 2 ft. high. Except those 
 N. and S. of the Longstone, they do 
 not run in the same lines or direc- 
 tions; but none are winding. All 
 the lines are straight ; and “ Dra- 
 contian” theories receive no coun- 
 tenance from the form of these 
 avenues. There are some stone en- 
 closures, hut-cireles, and remains of 
 2 pounds, on Shuffle Down, W. of 
 the avenues. (For remarks on these 
 rude-stone monuments, see Introd ., 
 “ Antiquities ”). 
 
 ( g ) From the avenues it is best to 
 make at once for the summit of 
 Kestor (1417 ft.), bearing slightly 
 N.E. This is a grand mass of gra- 
 nite — perhaps named from its re- 
 semblance, at a distance, to a “ cyst” 
 or “ark” crowning the hill. It 
 used to be, in Devonshire phrase, a 
 “mortal” ( i.e . great) place for 
 ravens ; but the visitor will be 
 lucky who now sees one of those 
 birds hovering about it. On its 
 summit is an enormous roclc-hasin , 
 measuring 96 in. by 80 in. at the 
 surface, and 31 in. d» ep. (The only 
 known basin which is larger is on 
 Heitor above Dunsford bridge. (See 
 the present rte., ante). There are 
 9 smaller basins on the tor. More 
 to the W. are seen the heights of 
 Watern, Wild, and Steeperton Tors. 
 (See post.) 
 
 Kestor lies, like other tors on 
 which are the most important basins, 
 in a central be It which occupies about 
 J of the area of the moor. Along 
 this belt “ the granite is for the most 
 part more liable to decomposition 
 than at the harder and more crystal- 
 line tors. This is shown by the many 
 rounded tors ; and every roadside 
 cutting shows the rapidity of the 
 decay. (See Mr. Ormerod’s paper on 
 the Rock Basins of Dartmoor in the 
 ‘ Quarterly Journal of the Geo- 
 logical Society/ vol. xv. 1859.) This 
 Kestor basin was discovered by Mr. 
 
 Moreton Hampstead . Sect. I. 
 
 Ormerod. It had been filled with 
 moss and turf to prevent sheep from 
 falling into it; and it is now sur- 
 rounded by an iron rail. Moss is 
 again accumulating in it. 
 
 The view from Kestor is magni- 
 ficent. Cawsand rises N., and be- 
 yond Chagford extends a vast stretch 
 of cultivated country, fading into a 
 blue distance. The whole neigh- 
 bourhood of the tor is of the highest 
 interest for the antiquary. There 
 has been here a very extensive 
 ancient settlement, — perhaps the 
 largest, and certainly the most no- 
 ticeable, on Dartmoor. Looking 
 from the rock, and more especially 
 toward the Teign, it will be seen 
 that Teigncombe Common (as the 
 heath here is called) is thickly strewn 
 with inclosure lines and hut circles. 
 “ The 4 village’ consists principally of 
 2 main parallel lines of road, and 
 between or near to them the greater 
 number of the huts are situate : there 
 are also side-roads leading to back 
 land and huts. The land was first 
 divided by walls running parallel to 
 the roads, and then subdivided by 
 cross-walls : the general direction of 
 the main division walls is from N.E. 
 to S.E.; and these terminate at a 
 wall that runs from near the N. 
 Teign at the E. of Batworthy en- 
 closures by Kestor Rock in a general 
 S.S.E. direction. This wall appears 
 to be the western boundary of the 
 hut village, though there are some 
 large irregular enclosures and a few 
 small huts beyond it, W. There 
 seem to have been only 2 passages 
 through this wall ; ore near Kestor, 
 and the other near the northern ex- 
 tremity ; from the last a road, walled 
 on both sides, can be traced to the 
 remains called the Round Pound, 
 and thence along the hill-side above 
 the Teign.” — G. W. Ormerod — (who 
 has most carefully examined these 
 remains, and has given a very ac- 
 curate plan of them, illustrating a 
 paper read before the Plymouth In- 
 I stitution). 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 8 . 
 
 The “ Round” or “ Roundy ” pound 
 is on the rt. side of the road leading 
 to Batworthy. There is an outer 
 enclosure, nearly triangular, with an 
 inner, which is circular, and about 
 34 ft. in diam. The space between 
 the two is divided into 6 “ courts,” 
 in one of which there is a hut circle 
 about 10 ft. in diam. ; in another a 
 triangular enclosure. The walls, com- 
 posed of large granite blocks, were 
 6 ft. 2 in. thick. The division by 
 walls radiating towards the centre, 
 is similar to those at Greaves-ash in 
 Northumberland, at Chun Castle, and 
 other places, and was probably in- 
 tended for securing and penning 
 sheep. The door of the outer circle 
 opens towards the N.W. ; that of 
 the inner one S.” — Sir G. Wilkin- 
 son. Nearly opposite, across the road, 
 is a square pound , also containing 
 many courts and hut circles. Mr. Or- 
 merod suggests that these “ pounds ” 
 were possibly the habitations of the 
 chief persons of the village — one 
 guarding the main road, the other 
 the farm and store. Bemains of 
 similar character and importance 
 have not been found in any other hut 
 village on Dartmoor. They may be 
 advantageously compared with the 
 clusters of huts on Anglesey, de- 
 scribed by the Hon. W. O. Stanley 
 in the ‘ Archaeol. Journal,’ vols. xxiv 
 and xxvi, and with others on the coast 
 of Wales, especially at St. David’s 
 Head. Whether the avenues and 
 circles belong to the same period is 
 uncertain, although it is most pro- 
 bable. The village may well have 
 been a British settlement — partly 
 pastoral, for the enclosures seem to 
 indicate the possession of sheep and 
 cattle — and partly connected with 
 tin streaming on the moor. (For 
 general remarks on the huts, the 
 avenues, and circles, see Introd.) 
 
 From Kestor the pedestrian fa 
 carriage must take a different road) 
 should by all means return to Chag- 
 ford (3 m.) by what is pleasantly I 
 called Featherbed Lane — a steep 1 
 
 —Kestor. 161 
 
 gorge, in winter a torrent — covered 
 with enormous boulders. 
 
 (. g ) Should he feel disposed to ex- 
 tend his excursion, he may proceed 
 across the moor (on foot or on horse- 
 back^ by Fernworthy to the Grey 
 Wethers under Sittaford Tor. (From 
 Kestor the Grey Wethers are distant 
 rather more than 3 m.) He must 
 return to the Longstone, and proceed 
 with Thorn worthy Tor on his 1. On 
 Thorn worthy is a logan-like mass of 
 rock, conspicuous from a distance. 
 The house at Fern worthy (marked 
 by its fine sycamores and beeches, 
 which make the place an unusually 
 good example of a moorland farm) 
 should be left 1. On the side of the 
 hill above is Fernworthy Circle , con- 
 sisting of 26 stones erect, and one 
 fallen. The diam. is 64 ft. (There 
 are imperfect traces of stone avenues 
 between this circle and the “ Three 
 Boys ” beyond the Longstone). In 
 proceeding, remark rt. a solitary farm 
 at Teign-head (the source of the N. 
 Teign), which has sometimes been 
 so lost in snow-drifts that no com- 
 munication with the world has been 
 possible for weeks together. About 
 1J m. S.W. are the Grey Wethers — 
 
 2 circles which nearly touch each 
 other, like the Cornish “ Hurlers ” — 
 one of which has 7 stones erect, 17 
 fallen, the diam. 110 ft.; the other 
 has lost most of its stones; 10 are 
 erect, 4 fallen, the diam. also 110 ft. 
 These blocks are very like sheep 
 when seen from a little distance ; 
 but not sheep that have been lately 
 sheared. They have a dark look in 
 contrast with the true white “fleeces” 
 feeding about them, which have not 
 known so many storms. (From these 
 circles you may gain the road from 
 Moreton to Tavistock, distant about 
 
 3 m., and so make for Two Bridges 
 or Prince Town: or returning to 
 Fernworthy, you may regain Chag- 
 ford by a road which runs to the rt. 
 of the S. Teign.) 
 
162 
 
 Route 8 . — Exeter to Moreton Hampstead. Sect. I. 
 
 (/i) The view 1 from Kestor may- 
 well suggest other moorland expe- 
 ditions. The walk by Watern, Wild, 
 and Steeperton Tors to Belstone is a 
 very* fine one, and is described in 
 Rte. 6 (Exc. c from Okehampton). 
 Watern Tor is marked by the open- 
 ing through the rocks on its summit, 
 called the Thirlstone (Rte. 6). After 
 gaining Taw Marsh, instead of pro- 
 ceeding to Belstone, you may cross 
 Belstone Ridge (1.), climb Yes Tor, 
 and so descend on Okehampton 
 (Rte. 6). You may follow the N. 
 Teign to its source, on the N. side 
 of Sittaford Tor, and ascend Cut Hill 
 beyond it. On the Teign the tourist 
 will find an interesting relic — an 
 ancient bridge of 3 openings, 7 ft. 
 wide and 27 long, formed entirely 
 of granite blocks. It belongs to the 
 same class of primitive structures as 
 Post Bridge (Rte. 13), but is perhaps 
 not so ancient. Its date however is un- 
 certain ; and it may be of the British 
 period. Cut Hill is a great eminence 
 (crowned with a pile of turf) in the 
 central morass of Dartmoor ; its sides 
 rent open by the rain, and quite in- 
 accessible in a wet season. Its sum- 
 mit commands a grand desolation — 
 extensive bogs, which contain the 
 fountains of the Dart, Tavy, Teign, 
 Taw, and Okement. These rivers 
 all drain from this watershed, but 
 they flow in different directions, and 
 are soon a great distance apart. 
 Fur Tor is conspicuous N.W. of Cut 
 Hill ; and this wild region has been 
 described in Rte. 6, Exc. b from 
 Okehampton. 
 
 (i) Cranmere Pool may also be 
 visited (see Rte. 6, Okehampton, 
 Exc. b). It is very difficult to find, 
 and very difficult of approach, but 
 is perhaps more easily reached from 
 Chagford than from any other border 
 town, as it is situated about 2 m. due 
 W. of a conspicuous mark in this 
 neighbourhood, Watern Tor (see 
 above). It is merely a pool of water 
 (in winter, in summer it is dry) in 
 
 the midst of deep morasses, which 
 are everywhere rent open by the 
 rain; but as there is some chance 
 of being bewildered among the bogs 
 in a search for it, and as it has been 
 considered (untruly) the fountain- 
 head of more than one well-known 
 river, the stranger may like to go in i 
 quest of it ; though for this expe- ! 
 dition he is recommended to put * 
 himself under Perrott’s guidance. * 
 From Chagford and Watern Tor 
 he may ride as far as White Horse 
 Hill (just N. of Sittaford Tor) ; 
 but there he will enter- the turve - i 
 ties (where they cut peat ; the best 
 and closest turf or peat on the 
 moor is cut here; it burns almost 
 like coal), and soon the lonely 
 region of the great central wil- 
 derness, which is impassable by a 
 pony. Here he may consider the 
 scenery rather dreary ; but there are 
 many who find an indescribable 
 charm in it. Far to the N. and W. 
 stretches an immense morass, coating 
 both hill and valley, and seamed on 
 the slopes by furrows of black earth 
 8 or 10 ft. deep. But there are voices 
 and visions in this wilderness to 
 cheer the wanderer. The murmurs 
 of the rivulets and the cries of 
 strange birds fall pleasantly on the 
 ear ; while the hills are varied by 
 the most beautiful tints, which alter- 
 nately shine and wane as the lights 
 and shadows play over them. Cran- 
 mere Pool is not above 220 yards in 
 circumf. It has been called “ the 
 mother of the Dartmoor rivers,” but 
 is, in fact, only the source of the W. 
 Okement , which receives many other 
 little streamlets as it trickles towards 
 Yes Tor. Four other rivers, how- 
 ever, rise at short distances from 
 Cranmere, — the Taw , J m. E. ; the 
 Tavy , below Great Kneeset Tor, 1 m. 
 S.W. ; the Dart , 1 m. S. ; and the 
 Teign , near Sittaford Tor, about 
 2 m.'S.E. In the belief of the 
 country people Cranmere is a place 
 of punishment for unhappy spirits, 
 who are frequently to be heard 
 
163 
 
 Devonshire. Route 9 . — Exeter to Torquay . 
 
 wailing in the morasses which sur- 
 round it. 
 
 ( h ) No stranger in this neighbour- 
 hood should neglect to visit Whyd- 
 don Park , a romantic hillside at the 
 entrance to the gorge of the Teign, 
 and a short 2 m. walk from Ohagford 
 by a path along the river-bank. You 
 will enter the park at the mansion 
 of Whyddon (Jacobean and pictur- 
 esque), anciently the seat of the 
 Whyddon family, and now of the 
 Bayleys. Here are huge old Scotch 
 and silver firs to delight you at the 
 threshold; but higher on the hill 
 are scenes and objects magnificently 
 wild— vistas of beech and aged oaks, 
 chaotic clatters and piles of granite, 
 herds of deer among the fern and 
 mossy stones, and at a distance the 
 towering tors of Dartmoor. Sir 
 John Whyddon, Justice of the King’s 
 Bench, temp. Eliz., bought the manor 
 of Ohagford from the Coplestons. 
 
 From Ohagford the pedestrian may 
 proceed by Throwleigh, and over 
 Cawsand, to Okehampton. In a car- 
 riage the road may be followed to 
 Throwleigh, and thence, skirting 
 Cawsand, you will gain the Oke- 
 hampton road near Sticklepath. 
 For this road see Rte. 6. The dis- 
 tance from Ohagford is about 10 m. 
 
 ROUTE 9. 
 
 EXETER TO TORQUAY (s. DEVON 
 RAILWAY). TORQUAY AND ITS 
 NEIGHBOURHOOD. 
 
 From Exeter to Newton the line 
 is the same as in Rtes. 6 and 7. 
 
 At Newton a branch passes off on 
 the 1. to Torquay and Torbay. At 
 first it coincides with the main line 
 (passing under Milber Down, where 
 is a large ancient camp) ; but then, 
 diverging, passes the King's Kers- 
 well Stat. (with the ch. rt.), and 
 ascends the valley to a summit at 
 Shiphay, from which it descends to 
 6^ m. from Newton, Tor Stat., for 
 St. Mary Church, Tor, and Torquay, 
 through Union-street; and 
 
 7 m. Torquay New Stat . ; affording 
 a much prettier approach by Tor 
 Abbey and the Sea Road. 
 
 On leaving this stat. the Bay sud- 
 denly bursts upon the view in full 
 beauty, Berry Head and Brixham on 
 the rt., and the broken cliffs and 
 bright sunny houses of Torquay on 
 the 1. The road, a new one, skirts 
 the shore, and leads to an open place 
 about the centre of the town. 
 
 Before describing Torquay we 
 may mention the places of interest 
 which adjoin this short line. All are 
 of course within easy distance of 
 Torquay or of Newton ; but there is 
 no intermediate stat. except at King’s 
 Kerswell. 
 
 On the summit of Milber Down 
 (1 J m. E. of Newton) is a celebrated 
 camp, consisting of a triple intrench- 
 ment. The inmost vallum is nearly 
 square ; the second, at 50 yds. dis- 
 tance, more oval ; the third, at the 
 same interval, an ellipse. Outside 
 all, at the distance of 150 yds., are 
 the remains of an almost circular 
 entrenchment. The strength and 
 
164 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 9 . — Exeter to Torquay . 
 
 unusual form of this entrenchment 
 have given rise to much discussion ; 
 and it has been suggested that the 
 square inner vallum may be a Korn an 
 addition to a British camp. The 
 Down is named from it (Milber = 
 Mil&Mry) ; and a branch of the Roman 
 road which crossed the Teigu near 
 Newton, is said to have turned in 
 this direction, passing under the 
 camp, and by Beacon Hill to Berry 
 Pomeroy. The main branch ran 
 onward to Totnes. In this camp on 
 Milber Down (whence is a grand 
 view) the P. of Orange planted his 
 park of artillery, Nov. 7, 1688, while 
 he was entertained and slept at Ford 
 House. A road passes through these 
 ancient works to St. Mary Church. 
 
 Haccombe House (Sir Walter Palk 
 Carew, Bart.), about 6 m. from Tor- 
 quay and 3 from Newton (it is on the 
 N. side of Milber Down), was built 
 about 50 years ago on the site of a 
 very ancient Hall. At the time of 
 the Domesday survey, the manor 
 was held by a “ Stephen/’ who took 
 his name from it. From his de- 
 scendants it passed to the Arch- 
 deacons ; from them to the Cour- 
 tenays; and by marriage, temp. Hen. 
 VI., with Joan, only daughter of Sir 
 Hugh Courtenay, to the present 
 family. 
 
 Ilaccombe Church is a small E. E. 
 structure, originally built, c. 1240, 
 by Sir Stephen of Ilaccombe, whose 
 presumed effigy now occupies a 
 place on the S. side of the chancel. 
 This is a fine example, cross-legged, 
 and is formed of a block of red sand- 
 stone, on which a coat of plaster has 
 been laid, moulded to represent chain- 
 mail, and once richly gilt. Another 
 Sir S. made such extensive altera- 
 tions in the ch. that it was re-dedi- 
 cated to St. Blaize in 1328, and this 
 figure has been attributed to him, 
 but the style of the armour is conclu- 
 sive as to an earlier date. In the N. 
 aisle are 2 figures on an altar-tomb 
 — possibly Hugh Courtenay, and Phi- 
 lippa his 2nd wife ; and a tomb with 
 
 recumbent female effigy (14th centy., 
 but unknown). On the chancel floor 
 are 5 interesting brasses of the Carews: 
 — Sir Nicholas Carew, 1 469 ; Thomas 
 Carew, 1586 ; Marie, his wife, 1589 ; 
 Elizabeth, wife of John Carew, 1611; 
 and Thomas Carew and wife, 1656. 
 These monuments and brasses are 
 among the most interesting in Devon- 
 shire, and should be seen by the anti- 
 quary, who will also notice the 
 remains of that ancient tile pave- 
 ment described by Lord Alwyne 
 Compton, (‘Arch. Journ/ iii. 151), 
 and an alabaster figure, only 2 ft. 
 2 in. long, which retains traces of 
 colour, and. of which the dress some- 
 what resembles that of William of 
 Windsor and Wm. of Hatfield, sons 
 of Edward III., in Westminster Abbey 
 and in York Minster. Much has been 
 done for the ch. of late years. On 
 the door are 2 horse-shoes, placed 
 there (says tradition) to commemorate 
 the wild feat of a Carew, who won 
 the w r ager of a manor of land by swim- 
 ming his horse a long distance from 
 the shore into the sea, and back again. 
 The incumbent of Haccombe is (or 
 was) an “ archpriest,” but he is not 
 entitled, as has often been asserted, to 
 any exemption from the jurisdiction 
 of the bp. or archd. An archpres- 
 bytery or college, consisting of an 
 I archpriest and five others, w r as 
 founded here by Sir Stephen of 
 Haccombe and his heir Sir John 
 “Lercedekne” (Archdeacon), circa 
 1341. These priests lived in com- 
 I mon. and were in effect “ Chantry 
 priests ” bound to pray for the 
 founder’s family. In the early part 
 of the 14th centy. Arch presbyteries 
 were instituted at Beer Ferrers, Pen- 
 kewell, and Whitechurch, all in the 
 diocese of Exeter. 
 
 King's Kersuell Stat. (the turnpike 
 road passes through the village, 3 m. 
 froitf Newton, and there is a rly. 
 stat. here). The Church has a Perp. 
 tower, with octagonal staircase turret. 
 This tower is one of a plain cha- 
 racter common in the district, so 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 1 65 
 
 Route 9 . — Torquay : Climate. 
 
 plain that the work in many parts 
 has been regarded as earlier than is 
 in fact the case. They are nearly 
 all late Dec. and Perp. (See Introd.) 
 In the recessed windows of the N. 
 aisle are 3 effigies — a knight and two 
 ladies, probably Sir John Dinham 
 and wife (temp. Richard II.), and a 
 daughter of Sir Thos. Courtenay, who 
 brought the manor to the Dinhams. 
 The knight and his wife were no 
 doubt removed from a recess in the S. 
 wall, now converted into a seat. His 
 armour and the lady’s very rich 
 dress deserve notice. 
 
 (The little Perp. ch. of Coffins- 
 well, about 1 m. from King’s Kers- 
 well, has been partly restored. The 
 village, with its rose-cohered cot- 
 tages, is picturesque, and the sur- 
 rounding “Devonshire lanes” very 
 pleasant). 
 
 7 Torquay. ( Inns : Imperial Hotel, 
 very well placed, overlooking the 
 bay, well managed and comfortable. 
 It is conducted on the modern system, 
 and was built by a company. Royal 
 Hotel, in the Strand — very good. 
 Atkinson’s Hotel, Belgrave Road 
 (between the station and the town). 
 Pop. 16,419 (including Tor Mo- 
 ham). This watering-place, re- 
 puted to possess one of the most 
 equable climates in England, and 
 much resorted to by invalids with 
 delicate lungs, is for the most part 
 of very modern growth. It is built 
 on the northern angle of Torbay, 
 at the confluence of 2 deep valleys 
 with the sea ; and while its regular 
 streets, for the most part, occupy 
 the lower levels or terraces, the 
 cliffs and summits are dotted with 
 villas. The general effect of the 
 white houses, the grey limestone 
 cliffs, and the foliage and green- 
 sward forming the ground of the 
 whole, is unusually pleasant and pic- 
 turesque, and calculated to soothe, as 
 far as scenery can soothe, the lassi- 
 tude and depression of ill-health. 
 
 Torquay seems first to have been 
 brought into notice as a residence by 
 the families of naval officers, when, 
 during the French war, the Channel 
 fleet under Earl St. Vincent used 
 the bay as an anchorage. Here, 
 as elsewhere, the supply of houses 
 has recently been great, but only 
 a very little, if at all, beyond the 
 demand. The town lies upon a 
 cove or bay, extending from Tor 
 Abbey sands to the quay and tidal 
 basin, while lofty villa - crowned 
 heights overlook it. These are 
 the Braddons on the N., Park Hill 
 on the E., and Waldon or Warren 
 Hill, with its wood of firs, on the 
 W. The appearance of the place 
 from the sea is very striking. The 
 harbour has been (1870) enlarged by 
 the erection (by Sir Lawrence Palk) 
 of a new pier 650 ft. long. It 
 encloses a space of 10 acres, with a 
 depth of 18 feet. The cost was 
 £30,000. 
 
 With respect to the temperature 
 to which Torquay is so much in- 
 debted, the following table ' and 
 remarks by Mr. E. Vivian were 
 published at the meeting of the Brit. 
 Assoc, in 1856 
 
 Torquay. England. 
 
 O O 
 
 Annual mean temp. . 
 
 . 50-3 .. 
 
 48*3 
 
 Max. temp 
 
 .76 
 
 83 
 
 Min. temp 
 
 .27 
 
 15 
 
 Mean daily range . . . 
 
 . 9*9 .. 
 
 14*5 
 
 Quarterly range 
 
 .15 
 
 46 
 
 Days of rain 
 
 .155 
 
 170 
 
 Inches of rain 
 
 . 27-8 .. 
 
 25*5 
 
 Mean humidity 
 
 , 0*76 .. 
 
 0*82 
 
 The cool summers and mild winters 
 are to be attributed to the equable 
 temp, of the sea. The humidity of 
 the air in summer is diminished by 
 the same cause. The temp, of the 
 sea being frequently below the dew- 
 point of the air, it acts as a condenser, 
 and produces results the reverse of 
 the relaxing character which has 
 been assigned to this district on in- 
 sufficient data.” The mean temp, 
 of the winter months at Torquay is 
 above 46°. The neighbourhood pos- 
 
166 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 9 . — Exeter to Torquay . 
 
 sesses a great variety of both beautiful 
 and sheltered drives and walks, to 
 which, no less than to its climate, the 
 reputation of Torquay is due. 
 
 The town has a manufacture to 
 supply the visitor with a memento 
 on quitting it — that of ornamental 
 articles in Devonshire madrepore , and 
 malachite , which is imported from 
 Russia. At Babbacombe are marble- 
 works, supplied from the Petit-tor 
 quarries. (See post.) The Terra 
 Cotta works at Watcombe should 
 also be mentioned here. (See them 
 noticed, post.) 
 
 For at least six centuries before 
 the rise of the modern town of Tor- 
 quay, the northern shore of Torbay 
 was distinguished solely by the 
 great Abbey of Tor and by the 
 village at its back. Tor Abbey (the 
 tor or rock which gave the name 
 first to the village, then to the abbey, 
 may have been the chapel hill op- 
 posite the station ; — the word, al- 
 though chiefly found on Dartmoor is 
 not confined to that district ; — besides 
 this tor we have Tor Bryan and Tor 
 Newton in Devonshire, Dunstor and 
 Glastonbury Tor in Somerset, and 
 tors are frequent in Derbyshire) is 
 passed 1. on the way from the station 
 to the town. The village of Tor 
 was in existence when the abbey was 
 founded. The whole of modern 
 Torquay, i. e„ the quay of Tor, is in 
 this parish of Tor Mohun. 
 
 Tor Abbey (for 2 centuries the pro- 
 perty of the Carys) was founded in 
 the reign of Rich. I. (1196), by Wm. 
 Lord Brewer (also the founder of 
 the Cistercian Abbey of Dunkeswell 
 (Rte. 1), where he was buried), 
 for Premonstratensian (Norbertine) 
 monks, and was by far the richest 
 of the 32 houses possessed by this 
 order in England. (They were called 
 Premonstratensians, from the mother 
 house, founded by St.Norbertin 1121, 
 in the valley of Premontre, in the 
 diocese of Laon.) It was purchased 
 
 by the Carys in 1662 ; but this old and 
 loyal family had long (at least from 
 the time of Rich. II.) been seated at 
 Cockington in the neighbourhood of 
 Torbay. Notwithstanding the addi- 
 tion of a mansion with wings, enough 
 of the abbey buildings remains to give 
 a character to the whole. The gate- 
 house is a striking relic of the 14th 
 centy. Under the vaulting are the 
 arms of the Abbey (a chevron 
 between 3 crosiers), and those of 
 Brewer, Mohun, and Speke. “The 
 roofless chapter-house, the prostrate 
 masses of the central church tower, 
 the refectory converted into ac hapel 
 in 1779, and the stately grange, are 
 still interesting.” The chapel (re- 
 fectory) is of the 14th centy. ; the 
 barn (now converted into stables) 
 of the 13th. It is locally known as 
 the Spanish barn , having been used, 
 it is said, as a prison for captives from 
 the Armada. In the small park were 
 3 noble avenues of limes and elms. 
 Only one remains ; and the host of 
 modern villas is closing up rapidly 
 round the walls of Tor Abbey. The 
 site of the Abbey was granted in 
 1543 to John St. Leger; and it 
 passed through many hands before 
 the Carys bought it in 1662. It 
 had belonged for a time to John 
 Ridgeway, who had been one of the 
 stewards of the Abbey before its 
 dissolution, and by discreet contri- 
 vances amassed a considerable for- 
 tune. His grandson was created 
 Earl of Londonderry in 1622. His 
 descendants, until 1713, when the 
 title became extinct, lived at Tor- 
 wood Grange , N.E. of Torquay. 
 This house, which was a fine one, 
 has long been pulled down, and its 
 site covered with villas. It was one 
 of the earliest monastic spoils of 
 John .Ridgeway, whose monument 
 remains in Tor church. 
 
 The long stretch of Tor Abbey 
 Sands , between which and the abbey 
 the road passes from the station to 
 the town, is hardly now an agreeable 
 lounging place. In front opens 
 
167 
 
 Route 9 . — Torbay : Prince of Orange • 
 
 Devonshire. 
 
 Torbay, nearly square in form, 
 about 4i m. wide at the entrance, 
 and bounded on the N. and S. by 
 the limestone promontories of Hope's 
 Nose and Berry Head. The E. side 
 of the square is open. “ On both 
 sides/’ says Gilpin, “ its shores are 
 screened with ramparts of rock, be- 
 tween which, in the centre, the 
 ground forms a vale, declining gently 
 to the water’s edge.” It is a noted 
 anchorage, protected from the pre- 
 valent gales, and affording space for 
 the largest fleets ; and, between the 
 years 1792 and 1815, was frequently 
 the refuge of our Channel squadron, 
 when driven from itscruising-ground. 
 Brixham, near Berry Head, is the 
 station of the fishermen. Raised 
 beaches and a submarine forest may be 
 observed at various points on the 
 shore ; (good examples of the former 
 occur on Hope’s Nose, and on 
 the Thatcher Rock , just inside that 
 headland. Whilst the Bellerophon 
 lay in Torbay, with Napoleon on 
 board, he observed, “What a beau- 
 tiful country ! How much it resem- 
 bles Porto Ferrajo, in Elba !” 
 
 This beautiful bay has, moreover, 
 an historical interest, as the scene of 
 the landing of the P. of Orange 
 (painted by Northcote), Nov. 5, 
 1688. But on that memorable oc- 
 casion it presented an aspect very 
 different from the present. “ Its 
 quiet shores,” says Macaulay, “ were 
 undisturbed by the bustle either of 
 commerce or of pleasure ; and the 
 huts of ploughmen and fishermen 
 were thinly scattered over what is 
 now the site of crowded marts and of 
 luxurious pavilions.” On Nov. 1 
 the P. of Orange set sail from Hel- 
 voetsluys, and for 12 hrs. stood to 
 the N.W., to divert attention from 
 the scene of his intended operations. 
 Then, changing his course, he bore 
 up for the English Channel before a 
 favouring gale ; passed the armament 
 under Lord Dartmouth, wind-bound 
 in the Thames ; and, on Nov. 3, 
 reached the Straits of Dover, where 
 
 his ships extended from one shore 
 to the other, and saluted both Calais 
 and Dover at the same time. On 
 the morning of the 5th of Nov. the 
 land was concealed by a fog, and 
 before the pilots could determine 
 their position the fleet had been car- 
 ried beyond Torbay, while the gale 
 blew so furiously from the E. that it 
 was impossible to return. Upon the 
 discovery of this misfortune, all was 
 given up for lost ; Plymouth was 
 strongly garrisoned, and Lord Dart- 
 mouth in full pursuit. But suddenly, 
 it is said, when the calamity seemed 
 irretrievable, the wind abated, the 
 mist dispersed, a gentle breeze sprang 
 up in the S., and the fleet was wafted 
 back to Torbay. The disembarkation 
 was immediately begun. 60 boats 
 conveyed the troops to the shore ; the 
 prince himself landing on a desolate 
 beach, which is now the busy quay 
 of Brixham. No sooner, however, 
 had the landing been effected than 
 the wind, the good genius of the 
 prince, came fiercely from the W., 
 and encountering the ships of Lord 
 Dartmouth, drove them for shelter to 
 Portsmouth. To the P. of Orange 
 and his army the welcome gale 
 brought a little discomfort ; the 
 ground was soaked with rain ; the 
 baggage still on shipboard ; and the 
 prince was fain to pass the night in 
 a miserable hut, from which his flag, 
 with its memorable motto — “ God 
 and the Protestant religion” — waved 
 over the thatched roof. On the fol- 
 lowing day the army commenced its 
 march upon the capital, and towards 
 evening the vanguard reached New- 
 ton Abbot, where the Declaration 
 was first publicly read. Here the 
 prince rested a day, and then pro- 
 ceeded towards Exeter, which he 
 entered amid the acclamations of the 
 people on the 8th of Nov. The fleet 
 wintered at Plymouth, and caused a 
 considerable scarcity of provisions in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 Torquay and its bay have been thus 
 
1(38 
 
 Route 9 . — Exeter to Torquay . Sect. I. 
 
 eloquently described by the author of 
 4 G laucus ’ (Canon Kingsley) : — “ Tor- 
 bay is a place which should be as much 
 endeared to the naturalist as to the 
 patriot and to the artist. We can- 
 not gaze on its blue ring of water, 
 and the great limestone bluffs which 
 bound it to the N. and S., without a 
 glow passing through our hearts, as 
 we remember the terrible and glori- 
 ous pageant which passed by in the 
 glorious July days of 1588, when the 
 Spanish Armada ventured slowly 
 past Berry Head, with Elizabeth’s 
 gallant pack of Devon captains fol- 
 lowing fast in its wake, and dashing 
 into the midst of the vast line, undis- 
 mayed by size and numbers, while 
 their kin and friends stood watching 
 and praying on the cliffs, spectators 
 of Britain’s Salamis. The white 
 line of houses, too, on the other side 
 of the bay, is Brixham, famed as the 
 landing-place of William of Orange ; 
 the stone on the pier-head, which 
 marks his first footsteps on British 
 ground, is sacred in the eyes of all 
 true English Whigs ; and close by 
 stands the castle of the settler of 
 Newfoundland, Sir Humphrey Gil- 
 bert, Raleigh’s half-brother, most 
 learned of all Elizabeth’s admirals 
 in life, most pious and heroic in 
 death. And as for scenery, though 
 it can boast of neither mountain 
 peak nor dark fiord, and would seem 
 tame enough in the eyes of a western 
 Scot or Irishman, yet Torbay surely 
 has a soft beauty of its own. The 
 rounded hills slope gently to the 
 sea, spotted with squares of emerald 
 grass, and rich red fallow fields, and 
 parks full of stately timber trees. 
 Long lines of tall elms, just flush- 
 ing green in the spring hedges, run 
 down to the very water’s edge, their 
 boughs un warped by any blast; and 
 here and there apple orchards are 
 just bursting into flower in the soft 
 sunshine, and narrow strips of water- 
 meadow line the glens, where the 
 red cattle are already lounging knee- 
 deep in richest grass, within ten 
 
 yards of the rocky pebble beach. 
 The shore is silent now, the tide far 
 out : but six hours hence it will be 
 hurling columns of rosy foam high 
 into the sunlight, and sprinkling pas- 
 sengers, and cattle, and trim gardens 
 which hardly know what frost and 
 snow may be, but see the flowers of 
 autumn meet the flowers of spring, 
 and the old year linger smilingly to 
 twine a garland for the new.” 
 
 In the town and its immediate 
 vicinity the stranger should direct 
 his attention to the following objects 
 and localities. First, however, the 
 churches should be noticed : — 
 
 The Church of Tor Moham (a cor- 
 ruption of Tor Mohun — the great 
 family which long possessed the 
 Manor) is the parish (or mother) 
 ch. of Torquay. (Separate dis- 
 tricts or parishes have of late years 
 been marked out, and new churches 
 built). It is a Perp. building, with 
 large aisles and a good font. It con- 
 tains some Jacobean monuments of 
 the Carys, and a monument for John 
 Ridgeway, ancestor of the Earls of 
 Londonderry. This ch. was appro- 
 priated by William Lord Brewer to 
 his foundation of Tor Abbey (ante) ; 
 and at the E. end was a manor-house 
 in which the Brewers, and their suc- 
 cessors the Mohuns, occasionally re- 
 sided. In this house died (1257) 
 Reginald de Mohun, the founder of 
 Newenham Abbey (see Rte. 3). The 
 Register of Newenham contains a 
 curious account of his death-bed 
 (see it in Oliver’s ‘Eccles. Antiq.’ 
 i. p. 206). St. John's formerly a 
 chapel of ease, has had a district 
 assigned to it, and the ch. has been 
 rebuilt (1866) from the designs of 
 Mr. Street . It may fairly be said 
 that this is one of the most beautiful 
 modern churches in the country. 
 Near the W. end is a large marble 
 reservoir, for use in the case of 
 baptism by immersion. A handsome 
 new church, St. Luke's (built 1862), 
 on Waldon Hill, has also been made 
 
169 
 
 Devonshire. Route 9.' — Torquay : Kent's Hole. 
 
 parochial. The new Church of St. 
 Mary Magdalene is E. Eng. with a 
 spire. St. Mark’s Church , and that 
 of St. Matthias, are both modern. 
 
 The Museum of the Torquay Nat. 
 Hist. Society in Park Street, contains 
 a good characteristic series of speci- 
 mens from Kent’s Cavern (see post). 
 The Public Baths and Assembly 
 Booms are on Beacon Hill. — The 
 Rock Walk , on the Warren, W. of 
 the harbour, affords delightful views 
 through the trees. — Daddy’s (i.e. the 
 Devil’s) Hole, on Daddy-hole Com- 
 mon, is just beyond the easternmost 
 villa on the cliff. It is a limestone 
 chasm, formed about 1760 by a small 
 landslip, and sheltering some trees 
 and shrubs. It commands an excel- 
 lent perspective view of Hope’s Nose, 
 which is about 2 m. from Torquay. 
 In the opposite direction, nearer the 
 town, is a point called the Lands- 
 end , and the arched rock known 
 as London Bridge. Below the com- 
 mon lies the cove of Meadfoot, in 
 which crescents and terraces have 
 risen like mushrooms; and from 
 Meadfoot Sands a pretty coomb as- 
 cends to Ilsham , an ancient farm- 
 house, formerly a grange of Tor 
 Abbey, where may be seen a very 
 small Perp. domestic chapel, with 
 upper chamber for the chaplain’s 
 residence, and a ground floor, the 
 whole strictly ecclesiastical in cha- 
 racter. 
 
 Kent’s Hole , the celebrated ossi- 
 ferous cavern, is rather more than 
 1 m. beyond Torquay, rt. of the 
 road leading to Babbicombe. Per- 
 mission to view it must be obtained 
 at No. 1, Victoria Cottages, Abbey- 
 road, and a guide with a torch will 
 be required. (The charge is 3s., and 
 visitors who desire a good light 
 should provide their own.) “It is, 
 perhaps,” says Mr. Pengelly, “not 
 too much to say that the belief 
 which at present prevails — that man 
 is of much higher antiquity than 
 our fathers supposed — was suggested 
 by the discoveries made in Kent’s 
 
 [Dev. & Corn.'] 
 
 Cavern in 1825, and confirmed by 
 those disclosed in Windmill Hill 
 Cavern, Brixham, in 1858.” The 
 cavern seems to have been known 
 from time immemorial ; and among 
 the various inscriptions on its walls 
 is seen “ Robert Hedges, of Ireland, 
 Feb; 20, 1688.” There are 2 en- 
 trances to the cavern, which consists 
 of 2 parallel series of chambers and 
 galleries — an eastern and a western 
 — connected by one opening only. 
 The principal entrance is arched, 
 and about 5 ft. high. The interior, 
 which was formerly hung with sta- 
 lactites (many still remain), ranges 
 from 2 ft. to 70 ft. in breadth, with 
 a maximum height of 18 ft. The 
 whole may be explored for a dis- 
 tance of 650 ft., when it terminates in 
 a pool of water. The inner chambers 
 are reached by a squeeze through the 
 Great and Little Oven. The floor 
 (before it was at all broken) was 
 covered with stalagmite about 3 in. 
 thick. The temperature of the cave, 
 slightly above the mean annual tem- 
 perature of the district, is constant 
 Throughout the year. The stalagmite 
 floor was first broken in 1824, by 
 Thos. Northmore, Esq., of Exeter, 
 who, being given to what he called 
 “ Mithrat.ic pursuits,” fancied he had 
 discovered here a “ sacred Arkaean 
 cave.” He certainly did discover 
 many fossil bones ; and his researches 
 were followed up with care and 
 labour, and for a considerable time 
 by the Rev. J. M‘Enery, resident on 
 the spot. (A memoir of these dis- 
 coveries, edited from Mr. M‘Enery’s 
 MS. notes, may be obtained from 
 Mr. Cockrem, Torquay ; and the 
 notes are printed at full length in the 
 6 Trans, of the Devon Assoc.’) These 
 undirected labours, however, were not 
 altogether satisfactory; and in 1864 
 the British Association appointed a 
 committee to make a thorough and 
 systematic exploration of the cavern. 
 This committee has since made 
 annual reports, and they will pro- 
 bably continue their work until the 
 I 
 
170 
 
 Route 9 . — Exeter to Torquay . Sect. I. 
 
 cavern is quite emptied of its con- 
 tents. The results of the several in- 
 vestigations are as follows. Above 
 the stalagmite is a surface of black 
 mould, containing relics of human 
 art, ranging through the Roman and 
 pre-Roman periods to a date which 
 corresponds with the earliest state of 
 civilization in the Swiss lake dwell- 
 ings — spindle whorls, bone combs, 
 amber beads, and lumps of native 
 copper being common to both. The 
 floor of stalagmite varies from a few 
 inches to 3 ft. in thickness. Under 
 the stalagmite is a depth of red clay, 
 containing rolled pebbles of granite 
 and other rocks ; and, here and there, 
 interlaid with films of stalagmite. 
 In this clay the bones of the follow- 
 ing animals have been found — great 
 horse-shoe bat (the only bat which now 
 frequents the cavern), shrew, bear 
 (Ursus priscus and ursus-spelseus), 
 badger, stoat, wolf, fox, hyaena 
 (spelaea), cave-tiger (there is some 
 doubt whether this Felis speloea was a 
 lion or a tiger), wild-cat, Machairodus 
 latidens , a very large and destructive 
 feline animal, 3 voles, hare, rabbit 
 (Lagomys spekeus), mammoth, rhino- 
 ceros ( tichorhinus) fossil-horse, hip- 
 popotamus ( major), great Irish deer, 
 gigantic round-antlered deer, and 
 red deer. Of these the remains of 
 bears and hyaenas are most numerous 
 and a quantity of faecal remains (of 
 animals which fed largely on bones), 
 besides marks of gnawing on many of 
 the bones indicate that tne cave was 
 frequented at one time, perhaps, by 
 bears, and at another by hyaenas. 
 These animals seem to have dragged 
 into the cave the bodies, or portions 
 of the bodies, of other species found 
 here. 
 
 It was tolerably certain before 
 1864 that remains indicating the 
 former presence of man had been 
 found in the clay below the stalag- 
 mite ; but this has been placed 
 beyond all doubt by the labours of 
 the Association Committee Arrow 
 heads and knives of flint (all of the 
 
 palseozoic type) occur in all parts of 
 the cave, and throughout the entire 
 thickness of the clay. In what is 
 called the Vestibule , near one of the 
 external entrances occurs (under the 
 stalagmite) a layer of black soil from 
 2 to 6 ft. thick, called the Black band. ] 
 In this have been found more than 
 326 flint implements, chips, and bone ; 
 tools, besides many bones of extinct j 
 animals, some of which are partially i 
 charred. Much charcoal has been 
 found here ; and it is clear that this 
 was the site of the “ domestic hearth.” 
 
 A bone needle with an eye capable 
 of receiving small twine, and a bone 
 harpoon or fish spear, are among the 
 implements yielded by the “black 
 band.” Many of the bones, too, 
 found in the cavern are split longi- 
 tudinally, as if for the extraction of 
 marrow. This, as Mr. Pengelly 
 has proved by experiment, is beyond 
 the power of hyaenas, but might 
 very well have been effected by the 
 primitive cave men^ There is no 
 doubt, in short, that the cavern was 
 tenanted during the same period by 
 both men and wild animals, though 
 not perhaps at the same time. Whilst 
 the human proprietors were absent 
 on long fishing or hunting expedi- 
 tions, the hyaenas may have taken 
 possession of the cave, relinquishing 
 it on their return. This is still the 
 case in the north of Tunis, w r here 
 the Arabs at certain times of the 
 year use old Roman cisterns and 
 crypts for shelter and for cattle folds, 
 and on their departure the hyaenas 
 take up their quarters in the same 
 dens. 
 
 The whole of the relics, human 
 and animal, belong to the Post- 
 pleiocenc period ; but their actual 
 antiquity, though no doubt very 
 great, cai/not as yet be decided with 
 accuracy. It is probable that the 
 l»ottom of the valley was at one time 
 above its present level ; and that 
 streams or land floods rushing 
 through it, carried the red clay and 
 the rolled pebbles into the cavern. 
 
171 
 
 Devonshire. Route 9. — Torquay : Excursions . 
 
 (A very interesting series of papers, 
 entitled ‘The Literature of Kent’s 
 Cavern/ describing the various early 
 notices of it, and the first explora- 
 tions, have been drawn up by Mr. 
 Pengelly, and will be found in the 
 Transactions of the Devonshire Asso- 
 ciation.) 
 
 On the Newton road, close to the 
 Tor rly. station, is Chapel Hill or St. 
 Michael's Mount , crowned by an 
 old chapel to the archangel. It 
 belonged to Tor Abbey ; but no 
 mention occurs of it in the registers 
 or chartularies. It is 36 ft. long, 
 built and roofed with a solid stone 
 vault, and serves as a sea-mark. 
 Dr. Oliver suggests that the W. end 
 may have been occupied by a hermit. 
 
 The following excursions can be 
 made from Torquay, but that to 
 Anstis Cove , Babbacombe , and Wat - 
 combe should on no account be passed 
 over. 
 
 Looking at the map, it will be seen 
 that Torquay forms part of a small 
 rocky peninsula, which divides Tor- 
 bay from that far more extensive 
 concavity (the great Western Bay) 
 which includes the coast of Devon 
 from Torquay to Axmouth. A 
 road leads across the. root of this 
 peninsula direct to Babbacombe, 2 
 m., passing the Public Gardens , in 
 which is a new Scotch Kirk ; or, 
 down a lane to the right near St. 
 Matthias’s Ch., close to Kent’s Hole 
 and by Anstis Cove. But a far 
 pleasanter course is by a path crossing 
 the hill near Hope’s Nose (on which 
 may be observed a raised beach and 
 fine examples of trap-rock with con- 
 tortions of the limestone strata). It 
 winds midway along the ivy-hung 
 cliff, presenting a series of delightful 
 prospects. By this path an easy stroll 
 of about 3 m. brings us to 
 
 Anstis Cove , justly considered one 
 of the most beautiful spots on the 
 coast. It is sheltered from the wind 
 by lofty cliffs very brilliantly coloured 
 
 and glossy like satin, and based on a 
 beach of white crystalline shingle, 
 derived from the slates in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The rocks in the centre 
 form buttresses of limestone, which 
 are ivied like a ruin, and screen a 
 little undercliff and tangled wood. 
 The northern horn of the cove is a 
 promontory of limestone, and a busy 
 quarry; a seat on its summit com- 
 mands, in one direction, a view in 
 which hills and patches of sea are 
 very curiously intermingled ; and, in 
 another, the headlands from Teign- 
 mouth to Portland stretched out in 
 long succession. On this down. 
 Walls Hill, are the targets and rifle- 
 range of the Torbay Volunteer Rifle 
 Association. On the beach the 
 fossil madrepore is often found. 
 Close to the cove, but on the Bab- 
 bacombe road, is Bishopstowe , a hand- 
 some Italian villa built by Dr. Phil- 
 potts, Bishop of Exeter, who here 
 ended his days (Sept. 18, 1869). It 
 is now the property of — Hanbury, 
 Esq. J m. N. is 
 
 Babbacombe ( Inn : the Cary Arms, 
 close to the beach). A few years 
 ago this pretty village was one of 
 those romantic seclusions which 
 have rendered the coast of Devon 
 such a favourite with the novelist. 
 At a turn of the coast the shore re- 
 ceding forms a tiny bay, in which a 
 group of cottages most fanciful and 
 picturesque lie nestled in a wood. 
 The bay is little more than a stone’s- 
 throw across, and bounded by cliffs 
 of marble and dark red sandstone, 
 rising from a white beach of quartz- 
 ose pebbles. Far as the eye can 
 reach, the coast stretches eastward, 
 and the eye, ranging along the bar- 
 rier, may trace the different forma- 
 tions as they appear in the cliffs, 
 from the slate-rocks, which here 
 first abut on the sea, to the chalk 
 of Beer Head. Speculating builders 
 are, however, now effecting a change 
 in Babbacombe. The village is ex- 
 tending inland in ugly houses, and 
 i 2 
 
172 
 
 Route 9 . — Exeter to Torquay . 
 
 will probably, at no very distant 
 period, amalgamate with Torquay. 
 The redeeming feature however is 
 the Church designed by Butterfield , 
 and which, though unfinished, justi- 
 fies his high reputation as a church 
 architect. 
 
 On the N. side of this bay is Petit 
 Tor , extensively quarried for marble, 
 and exhibiting an interesting geolo- 
 gical section, in which a mass of slate 
 is seen to have been thrust up by the 
 action of trap in the form of an arch. 
 It supports a bed of limestone, 
 portions of which have been fairly 
 squeezed into the shales. About ^ m. 
 distant is St. Mary Church , where 
 there are marble-works that will 
 repay a visit. The parish Church , 
 formerly a plain late Perp. build- 
 ing, has been wholly rebuilt (archi- 
 tect S. W. Hugall), and is now 
 a rich and elaborate structure, 
 though not equal in merit to St. 
 John’s, Torquay, or to the R. C. 
 church close by. The style is 
 Geometrical (Ear. Dec.). The nave 
 is 6 bays in length, divided by 
 moulded piers with shafts of Bath 
 stone and Petit Tor marble. The 
 clerestory is of spherical triangular 
 lights. The old font, of Norm, date, 
 and covered with curious carving, is 
 enclosed in an outer arcade (modern) 
 of Caen stone and marble. (The 
 carving represents animals, hunting 
 scenes, and grotesques ; and in one 
 medallion is what appears to be a 
 “tumbler/’ or “ joculator,” such a 
 figure as occurs in contemporary 
 illuminations.) The chancel, the 
 chief point of interest, is simple, 
 though rich in detail, with pietra- 
 dura and carved work. It has a 
 massive oak roof. The screen and 
 reredos, both inlaid in the parish, 
 and with native marbles, were re- 
 spectively the gift of A. J. Beresford 
 Hope, Esq., and of the Baroness 
 Burdett Coutts. The organ was given 
 by Mr. Isambard K. Brunei, the 
 engineer. Including these gifts, the 
 whole cost of the ch. was about 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 10,000/., the parish having, during 
 the 10 years of rebuilding (1851- 
 1861), contributed by far the larger 
 part of this sum. The old tower , 
 which remained until 1871, and 
 though plain, was massive and cha- 
 racteristic of the district, has given 
 place to a new and loftier one now 
 0 872) in course of erection. It is 
 intended to serve as a memorial of : 
 the late Bishop Philpotts. In the 
 churchyard are the graves (marked !■ 
 by granite crosses) of Henry Phil- 
 potts, Bishop of Exeter, and his wife. 
 
 Not far from this parish ch. rises 
 the new P. C. Church of “ Our Lady 
 and St. Denis,” built at the sole | 
 expense of Mr. W. J. P. Chatto. 
 The building is of E. E. cha- 
 racter (architects, Messrs. Hanson, of 
 London). The chancel is lighted 
 by 9 circ. windows, that in the 
 centre being a measured copy of a 
 window at Melrose, called the 
 “ Crown of Thorns.” The high 
 altar deserves notice. There is as 
 yet no tower. Attached to the ch. 
 is a convent of “ Sisters of Penance,” 
 with schools, an orphanage, and a 
 presbytery. 
 
 From St. Mary’s Church the road 
 may be followed 1 m. to the romantic 
 landslip of Watcombe, broken ground 
 encircled by fantastic red cliffs; 1. 
 of the (Teignmouth) road is the 
 entrance to what are known as 
 “Watcombe Grounds,” laid out by 
 the late Mr. Isambard K. Brunei, 
 and planted by him. There are 
 fine specimens of rare pines and 
 other trees. The view is magnifi- 
 cent. Only the foundations of the 
 house were laid. The site now be- 
 longs to — Vicary, Esq., of Teign- 
 mouth. 
 
 The Tdfra- Cotta Works at Wat- 
 combe deserve special notice. The 
 clay was discovered on his own pro- 
 perty by G. J. Allen, Esq., of Wat- 
 combe House , and in 1869 a company 
 was formed for working it. No 
 clay precisely resembling this has 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 173 
 
 j Route 9 . — Torquay .* Excursions . 
 
 been found in this country. It is 
 of the very finest quality, much re- 
 sembling that used by the ancients, 
 evenly and delicately tinted, and 
 capable of retaining the most deli- 
 cate forms. The operations are very 
 interesting, and the clay is most 
 carefully prepared before it is used. 
 After being broken up and stirred 
 in water till it is reduced to the con- 
 sistency of cream, it is twice passed 
 through silken sieves, so fine that 
 they will retain water unless it is 
 agitated. The clay is then dried, 
 and is ready for use. Some very 
 graceful vases and other ornaments 
 have been made here ; but the most 
 striking productions are certain 
 baskets of flowers, executed with 
 wonderful skill and delicacy. They 
 are as fine as the minutest wood 
 carving. Examples are to be seen 
 at the works, which cover a large 
 area, and include a show room. 
 Ordinary useful pottery is also made 
 here. Two International certificates 
 and a silver medal have already been 
 gained by this Company. 
 
 Further E. is the little dell and 
 cove of Maidencombe . Beyond again 
 is a little bay known as Labrador , 
 very picturesque and worth visiting. 
 It is a delightful walk by the coast 
 from Babbacombe to Shaldon (oppo- 
 site Teignmouth), a distance of 7 m. 
 
 Between St. Mary’s Church and 
 Torquay is the Rocky Valley , the 
 sid^s of which are overhung by 
 masses of broken rock. It lies under 
 a hill called the Dazon ; but this 
 valley, like others close to Torquay, 
 has been much spoiled by modern 
 “ improvements.” 
 
 Another excursion can be made 
 from Torquay, in a westerly direc- 
 tion, to the pretty village of Cocking- 
 ton, 2 m., and extended by Marldon 
 to the remains of Compton Castle (an 
 additional 4 m.). Cockington lies 
 pleasantly among green Devonshire 
 lanes The church, of no special 
 interest, stands within the grounds 
 
 of Cockington Court (W. Mallock, 
 Esq.), where the fine rhododendrons 
 deserve notice. Cockington be- 
 longed to the Carys from the time 
 of Richard II., till it passed to the 
 present family in 1654. Cross roads 
 lead from Cockington to (2£ m.) 
 Marldon , where the ch. is interest- 
 ing. It is said to have been built 
 by the Gilberts of Compton, and 
 was ded. in 1348. The caps, of the 
 Perp. piers have the plaited wreath, 
 which seems peculiar to Devonshire. 
 Over the entrance door are the 
 words, “ Exaltata est sancta Dei 
 genetrix super choros angelorum 
 ad cselestia regna.” The ch. has 
 been (1862) restored; Wm. White, 
 architect. 
 
 Compton Castle (1J m.) belongs to 
 the Rev. T. A. Bewes ; but is used 
 as a farmhouse. This very interest- 
 ing place should on no account be 
 left unseen by the antiquary. In 
 the reign of Henry II. it belonged^ 
 to Sir Maurice de la Pole. It went 
 from his descendants to the Comp- 
 tons (who held it for 7 generations), 
 and in the reign of Edw. II. passed 
 by marriage to the Gilberts of Green- 
 way, who sold it about the com- 
 mencement of the present cent, to 
 the Templers. Behind it are the 
 formal walks of the old garden, or 
 pleasaunce. The castle dates from 
 the early part of the 15tli centy. “It 
 has no moat, and therefore required 
 other means to be adopted to protect 
 the foot of the wall from being 
 undermined. This object is effected 
 by the great number of projections 
 carried on machicoulis, through the 
 openings of which stones and other 
 missiles could be thrown on the heads 
 of assailants. (That these projections 
 were not garderobes is shown by 
 the fact that a garderobe turret is 
 provided at the back of the same 
 chambers in which they are.) The 
 chapel is tolerably perfect, with a 
 room over it — perhaps the priest’s. 
 It had originally a floor in the western 
 part, dividing it into 2 rooms ; and 
 
174 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 10 . — Torquay to Brixham . 
 
 there are 2 squints from other rooms 
 toward the altar. The buildings 
 originally surrounded a small quad- 
 rangle, had a square tower at each 
 corner, and were enclosed by a 
 wall 20 ft. high, the greater part of 
 which remains. The postern gate at 
 one end of the front, and the prin- 
 cipal entrance in the centre, both 
 had a portcullis. The hall was 
 
 pulled down when the house was 
 adapted to its present purpose.” — 
 J. H. P. The strong defences of 
 Compton were rendered necessary 
 from its being so close to the shore, 
 on which landings of the French 
 frequently occurred. Sir Humphrey 
 Gilbert, the discoverer of Newfound- 
 land, and the half-brother of Sir 
 Walter Raleigh, lived for some time 
 at Compton. 
 
 A stranger residing any time at 
 Torquay will also visit Berry Po- 
 meroy Castle , and Totnes (Rte. 7), de- 
 scend the Dart to Dartmouth (Rte. 7 ; 
 for Dartmouth itself see Rte. 10), 
 and return by Brixham , sleeping a 
 night at Totnes or Dartmouth. Or 
 the order of this route may be re- 
 versed. Paignton Church (see Rte. 10) 
 is also worth a visit. 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 TORQUAY TO BRIXHAM AND DART- 
 MOUTH (DARTMOUTH AND TOR- 
 BAY RAILWAY). — THE COAST 
 (SLAPTON, TORCROSS, THE START, 
 THE PRAWLE, SALCOMBE, THE 
 BOLT) FROM DARTMOUTH TO 
 KINGSBRIDGE. 
 
 From the Torquay Stat., the rly. 
 encircles Torbay, with stations at 
 
 Paignton and Churston Ferrers (whence 
 a short branch line runs to Brixham). 
 It then gains the 1. bank of the Dart, 
 and proceeds along it to Kingswear 
 (opposite Dartmouth — there is a steam 
 ferry across). The distance to Kings- 
 wear (performed in less than half an 
 hour) is 9^ m. Magnificent views of 
 Torbay are commanded along the 
 whole line from Torquay to Churston 
 Ferrers. 
 
 Passing Corbon’s Head, with the 
 3-gun battery of the Torbay Volun- 
 teer Artillery, and Livermead f where 
 is a good and pleasantly situated 
 lodging-house, the rly. reaches 
 
 2| m. Paignton Stat. (Inns: Gers- 
 ton’s Hotel, very good ; Crown and 
 Anchor.) The town (pop. 3090), ori- 
 ginally some distance from the sea, has 
 now approached it, and, like Torquay, 
 is rapidly extending in every direction. 
 It is, however, an old place, having, 
 with the manor, belonged to the see 
 of Exeter from a period before the 
 Conquest ; and some trifling remains 
 of the Bishop's Palace (a crenellated 
 wall, and a tower of the 14th centy.) 
 may be observed at this day adjoin- 
 ing the churchyard. There was an 
 extensive park adjoining the palace ; 
 and Sir Henry de Pomeroy, in 1265, 
 appeared personally in the Court of 
 Bp. Bronescombe to acknowledge his 
 offence in having illegally scaled 
 the fences of the park, ** fossata 
 pacri de Peynton illicite transgre- 
 diens cum meis familiaribus et aliis 
 multis de domo meo de Byry,” when 
 he hunted the bishop’s deer and 
 killed some. He had to make due 
 compensation. The 'last tenant of 
 the palace was the celebrated pre- 
 late Milesy Coverdale. In a news- 
 paper of June, 1809, it is stated 
 that “ at Paignton Fair the ancient 
 custom of drawing through the town 
 a plum-pudding of immense size, and 
 afterwards distributing it to the po- 
 pulace, was revived on Tuesday last. 
 It was drawn along the street by a 
 yoke of 8 oxen.” 
 
175 
 
 Devonshire. Route 10 . — Paignton — Brixham . 
 
 The Church is chiefly Perp., and 
 contains a pulpit (carved and painted 
 wood) worth notice. Observe also 
 the Perp. windows, the shield of 
 Bp. Lacy, in the painted glass of the 
 N. aisle, and the Kirkham chapel, 
 with its tombs, on the S. side of the 
 nave. The stone screen work here 
 is very fine, but has been mutilated 
 with the utmost barbarism. It is 
 late Perp., and forms a mass of ela- 
 borate tabernacle work, with niches 
 and figures. The pinnacles above 
 are crowned with angels bearing 
 shields. The effigies are those of 
 members of the Kirkham family, by 
 whom the screen was erected. (The 
 Kirkhams were lords of the manor 
 of Collaton Kirkham , in this parish.) 
 On the wall by this chapel is an 
 escutcheon with this inscription: — 
 “ Here lyeth the heart and bowels 
 of the most honourable and most 
 worthy and high esteemed John 
 Snellin, Rear-Admiral of Holland 
 and West Friesland, who dyed the 
 xxiiii. of August, mdcxci.” A frag- 
 ment of Norm, walling is preserved 
 in the N. wall of the tower, which 
 fragment includes a fine late Norm, 
 doorway, with voussoirs of Beer 
 stone and red sandstone. In the 
 churchyard are the steps and shaft 
 of an ancient cross. Paignton is 
 noted for an early cabbage , which 
 is sent to all parts of the country. 
 Kirkham' s Hill (Hall ?) here is a 1 5th- 
 centy. house. “ The fireplace in the 
 hall is a good example, and in the 
 same apartment is a good water- 
 drain. The outer doorway (of tim- 
 ber) is good ” — J. II. P. 
 
 (At Collaton, in this parish, is 
 the Church of St. Mary the Virgin , 
 founded by the late Rev. J. R. Hogg. 
 The E. window has been inserted by 
 his widow, as a memorial of the 
 founder. There are two other stained 
 windows, also memorials. The re- 
 redos, representing the Last Supper, 
 is by Phyffers. Marbles of various 
 colour and Caen stone are used in 
 the architectural portion.) 
 
 [Several lanes lead from this town 
 to the shores of the Dart, particu- 
 larly to Stoke Gabriel , a retired and 
 pretty village, remarkable for itsyew- 
 tree, said to be the 2nd in England 
 for size and age. Further down the 
 river are Sandridge (late Lord Crans- 
 toun), an Italian villa, with a double 
 view of the Dart through long vistas 
 of trees — and Watton or Waddeton 
 Court (H. Studdy, Esq.), a modern 
 building in the Eliz. style. In Par- 
 liament Lane , leading from Stoke 
 Gabriel to Portbridge, a farmhouse 
 is pointed out as the scene of the 
 first council held by the P. of Orange 
 after his landing in Torbay. 
 
 On the roadside between Paignton 
 and Totnes the botanist may find 
 Linum angustifolium, or narrow-leaved 
 flax. 
 
 Berry Pomeroy Castle lies on the 
 road to Totnes.] 
 
 Winding above Goodrington Sands, 
 and looking far over Torbay, the 
 rly. proceeds to 
 
 2f m. Churston Ferrers Stat. The 
 village is distant about \ m. It be- 
 longed for some time to the family 
 of Ferrers, whence it is named ; and 
 was for some descents the property of 
 the Yardes, whose heiress married Sir 
 Francis Buller, Bart., the well-re- 
 membered “Justice of the King’s 
 Bench.” The Yardes inhabited the 
 old mansion of Churston Court. Sir 
 Francis Buller in 1778 bought Lup- 
 ton, which lies a short distance S. of 
 Churston Ferrers. His descendant, 
 the late Sir John Yarde Buller, after 
 representing S. Devon in parliament 
 for 24 years, was (1858) raised to 
 the peerage as Baron Churston of 
 Churston Ferrers. His grandson, 
 the present Lord Churston, is now 
 the owner of Lupton. 
 
 The branch line from Churston 
 station runs direct to Brixham Quay , 
 a distance of 2 m. 
 
 Brixham ( Inns : Bolton Hotel ; 
 
 London ; Globe, at the Quay. Every 
 intelligent traveller will visit this 
 
176 
 
 Sect, I. 
 
 Route 10 . — Torq 
 
 place, as it is unique of its kind, 
 being the head - quarters of the 
 great Devonshire fishery of Tor- 
 bay, of which trawling is the 
 main feature, whereas seining and 
 driving are characteristic of the 
 Cornish fisheries. Brixham is di- 
 vided into the Higher and Lower 
 town, together extending a distance 
 of about a mile * up a valley ; but 
 the Lower town, or Brixhdm Quag , 
 is the only part deserving notice. 
 A fourth of the manor was pur- 
 chased # many years ago by 12 Brix- 
 ham fishermen, whose shares have 
 been since divided and subdivided, 
 so that visitors to the pier may 
 generally have the opportunity of 
 cultivating the acquaintance of a 
 “ Brixham lord.” 
 
 About 200 trawlers belong to this 
 port, being large decked sloops of 
 from 40 to 50 tons burthen, each 
 generally managed by 3 men and a 
 boy. The trawl-net is about 70 ft. 
 long, in the form of a bag, and pro- 
 vided wdth a beam, occasionally 40 ft. 
 in length, to keep the mouth open. 
 This net is drawn or trawled along 
 the bottom of the sea, and procures 
 flat-fish, gurnards, haddocks, white- 
 ings, &c. It is best to visit Brixham 
 on a Saturday, since on that day as 
 many trawlers as can find accommo- 
 dation enter the harbour, while the 
 rest of the fleet moor off the en- 
 trance. Evening on every week-day 
 is the most interesting time, as the 
 fish are then landed, and if the 
 trawlers have been successful the 
 Quay presents a lively and pic- 
 turesque scene ; the fish lying in 
 broad piles, a saleswoman disposing 
 of them by auction) knocking down 
 the lots by dropping a stone), men 
 and women engaged in packing 
 them, and vans in attendance to 
 carry the baskets to the rail. In 
 the centre of the quay stood a pillar 
 commemorative of the landing of 
 the Prince of Orange on the 5th of 
 Nov. 1688. It is now removed to 
 the pier, and is said to enclose a part 
 
 uay to Brixham . 
 
 of the stone upon which the prince 
 placed his foot as he stepped from 
 the boat. "(The mark of the prince’s 
 foot — a late instance of one of the 
 most widespread and most ancient 
 pieces of“ folk-lore” in the world — 
 is said to be impressed on this stone. 
 It need hardly be said that the 
 marks are natural). 
 
 Brixham was long celebrated for 
 the ebbing and flowing of the spring 
 Laywell (‘ Philos. Trans.,’ vol. vii.), 
 which is situated on the outskirt of 
 the Higher town. This spring is, 
 however, no longer intermittent ; 
 the erection of some neighbouring 
 houses having, it is supposed, effected 
 the alteration. The name is evi- 
 dently a corruption of Lady-well. 
 
 The Church of Higher Brixham is 
 ancient, and contains several monu- 
 ments, one to Judge Buffer. (This 
 is a cenotaph. Judge Buffer (d. 
 1800) was buried in St. Andrew’s 
 ch.-yard, Gray’s Inn.) 
 
 The pier was built in 1808. At 
 the end of it is inserted in the waff 
 a tablet commemorating the visit of 
 the Duke of Clarence to Brixham in 
 1823. Upon that occasion the royal 
 duke was presented with a chip from 
 the stone upon which the Prince of 
 Orange is said to have landed, en- 
 closed. in a box of heart of oak. 
 The town has a large trade inde- 
 pendent of its fishery, and the tidal 
 harbour , although tolerably capacious, 
 is found insufficient to accommo- 
 date the shipping. A breakwater , 
 however, is in course of construc- 
 tion, the completion of which is 
 expected to render the roadstead a 
 secure anchorage. The Admiralty 
 have an establishment here for wa- 
 tering the navy. 
 
 At Upton , adjoining the town, an 
 iron-mine is worked with consider- 
 able profit. There are 3 other mines 
 (all iron) at work in the parish. 
 
 Berry Head, 1 m. E. of the har- 
 bour, should be visited. It is a 
 
177 
 
 I)evon8hire. Route 10. — Bnxhcmi : Berry Head . 
 
 square-shaped, headland of hard lime- 
 stone, of a flesh-coloured tint, and 
 with a surface glossy like satin. The 
 face of the cliff inside the point is 
 largely quarried, and falls so ab- 
 ruptly to deep water that vessels lie 
 moored alongside, as at a quay. On 
 the summit are the ruins of two large 
 military stations which were used 
 during the French war ; and in con- 
 structing which a large ancient 
 entrenchment (which gave name 
 Burh = berry to the headland) was 
 destroyed. This had certainly been 
 occupied by the Romans, if not at 
 first constructed by them. The N. 
 vallum stretched in a straight line 
 quite across the promontory, and 
 was partly formed by Roman ma- 
 sonry. Great numbers of Roman 
 coins have been found here; and 
 the place is said traditionally (but 
 how old the tradition may be is not 
 clear) to have been that at which 
 Vespasian and Titus landed. 
 
 In the cliffs between Berry Head 
 and Murdstone Bay are 3 caverns, 
 2 of which are below the high- 
 water level ; the 3rd is only entered 
 by the waves in stormy weather, 
 during high spring - tides. Nearer 
 the old barracks is the cavern called 
 the Ash Hole , in which have been 
 found a quantity of human bones 
 and pottery, relics, it is supposed, 
 of the Roman garrison. Below the 
 stalagmite here the bones of hygenas 
 and other animals have been dis- 
 covered. Another cavern, called the 
 “ Windmill Hill Cavern in a quarry 
 above the town, was discovered in 
 1858, and has been very carefully 
 explored by the Geological Society, 
 under the direction of Mr. Pengelly, 
 F.G.S., and some members of the 
 Torquay Natural History Society. 
 The results no doubt prove the very 
 high antiquity of the human race 
 in this district— flint implements, 
 similar to those found in the drift, 
 having been discovered in the loam 
 at the lowest levels, associated with 
 the remains of hippopotamus, cave 
 
 lion, hysena, and other sub-tropical 
 animals. Deeply imbedded in the 
 stalagmitic floor was found a fine 
 pair of antlers of the reindeer, show- 
 ing a vast change in the climate 
 between these periods. Windmill 
 Hill rises to the height of 175 ft. 
 above mean tide. It is bounded S. 
 byAhe sea, and on the other 3 sides 
 by valleys which separate it from 
 hills of similar height. The external 
 entrances to the cavern are high 
 above the present bottoms of these 
 valleys; but there is little doubt 
 that the valleys, when the wild 
 animals and as wild “cave men” 
 frequented the district, were filled 
 to a considerable height by a blue 
 clay, in which grew a forest, afford 
 ing shelter and protection. The 
 specimens found in this cavern are 
 at present (1872) in the apartments 
 of the Geological Society at Somer- 
 set House, London. 
 
 Should the traveller who visits 
 Brixham be bent upon thoroughly 
 exploring the southern coast, he will 
 perhaps proceed by the cliffs from 
 Berry Head to Dartmouth. This 
 route, however, is very circuitous 
 (about 7 m.) and laborious. In the 
 space - of a mile the path rises many 
 times to an elevation of 300 or 400 
 ft., and falls as often to the level of 
 the sea, while a series of jutting head- 
 lands render it zigzag in a horizontal 
 as well as a vertical plane. There 
 are parts of the shore, however, well 
 worth seeing. About 3 m. W. of 
 Berry Head the quick interchange 
 of hill and valley is remarkable, and 
 gives the advantage of picturesque 
 form to cliffs which are unrivalled for 
 beautiful colouring. They are partly 
 composed of slat e, partly of limestone, 
 and include patches of red sandstone; 
 while their colours are crimson, pur- 
 ple, brown, but, beyond all in effect, 
 a delicate blue with a silvery lustre. 
 In this walk from Berry Head to 
 Dartmouth you will pass over fields 
 which are dyed with the red soil of 
 the sandstone (Old Red) formation, 
 i 3 
 
178 
 
 Route 10 . — Torquay to Brixham. Sect. I. 
 
 while the slate and limestone which 
 lie below it are exhibited in the cliffs. 
 For more than a mile W. of Berry 
 Head the country is divided by for- 
 midable stone hedges, rendered quite 
 impassable by ivy. It is therefore 
 advisable to follow a lane to the 
 vicinity of Upton, and there take to 
 the cliffs near Sharkharn Point (where 
 there is a raised beach.) 
 
 The high road from Brixham to 
 Dartmouth, 4 m., consists of one long 
 ascent and descent; the view towards 
 Brixham on the ascent meriting no- 
 tice. The blue waters of the Channel 
 and Torbay occupy the sides of the 
 picture, while the land towards Berry 
 Head rises in the centre in enormous 
 hilly masses ; but woods and rocks 
 are wanting in the prospect. On the 
 descent to the Dart, this river opens 
 in a new light to a person who has 
 viewed it only from a boat. The 
 foldings of the hills are beautifully 
 displayed in perspective, and the 
 granite tors of Dartmoor form the 
 background. The river is crossed by 
 a floating-bridge, worked by a horse, 
 occupying 20 min. in the passage, but 
 the tourist has the choice of the 
 steam-ferry from the Kingswear 
 Rly. Stat. to the quay at Dartmouth. 
 
 Leaving Churston station, the rly. 
 gains the bank of the Dart below 
 Greenway House (Mrs. Harvey ; see 
 Exc. from Totnes, Rte. 7) ; and pro- 
 ceeding along it, reaches 
 
 m. King swear e Stat., whence 
 there is a steam-ferry to Dartmouth, 
 opposite 
 
 Dartmouth (Inns: Castle, on the 
 Quay ; Commercial, New Road. This 
 town, like Totnes, is extremely old, 
 and as interesting for that reason as 
 for the beauty of its position. It is 
 built in terraces upon the shore of a 
 romantic harbour, a lake-like ex- 
 panse completely land-locked, open- 
 ing to the sea by a narrow channel, 
 called the “ Jaw Bones,” and encom- 
 
 passed by steeply shelving hills of 
 from 300 to 400 ft. in elevation. 
 
 The traveller, having landed at 
 the Railway Pontoon, will observe 
 in Duke Street, leading from the 
 quay, some of the old houses for 
 which the town is remarkable. They 
 bear upon their fronts dates from 
 1625 to 1640, and are truly pictu- 
 resque, with their wooden frame- 
 work, rich carving, piazzas, and 
 gables : unfortunately, they are fast 
 giving place to regular London “shop 
 fronts.” The oldest part of Dart- 
 mouth lies southward from the land- 
 ing-place toward the entrance of the 
 harbour from the channel ; and con- 
 sisted until recently of two narrow 
 streets, or rather lanes, running pa- 
 rallel with the irregular shore, and 
 along so steep an acclivity, that the 
 pavement of the one is nearly on 
 a level with the roof of the other, 
 while the communication between 
 them is by flights of steps. These 
 streets contained a number of old 
 houses, elaborately carved, and built 
 with overhanging storeys, and with 
 gables projecting still farther in ad- 
 vance, so that two persons might pos- 
 sibly greet each other by a shake of 
 the hand from opposite windows. 
 The stranger will remark that many 
 of the fronts are supported by brack- 
 ets, carved in likeness of the lion, 
 unicorn, and griffin, and, some of 
 them, with emblems of the prin- 
 cipal Christian virtues. But many 
 of these houses have been swept 
 away in pursuance of a grand scheme 
 of town improvement, which will 
 cause one broad road of handsome 
 modern residences to wind up the 
 ascent. 
 
 The harbour of Dartmouth was 
 recognized as of importance at a 
 very early period. It was the chief 
 harbour of the district known as the 
 “ Littus Totonesium,” — the “Totnes 
 Strand,” — and from it the passage 
 was constantly made “ from the 
 Greater to the Lesser Britain ” (so 
 says Alan of Lisle, writing in the 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 10 . — Dartmouth . 
 
 179 
 
 12th centy.). Layamon (circ. 1205) 
 lands Brutus of Troy at “ Derte- 
 mur in Totones.” 
 
 Dartmouth was first incorporated 
 under the title of Clifton-Dartmouth- 
 Hardness (there were in fact 3 ad- 
 joining towns) in the reign of Edw. 
 III., 1342, at which time it was evi- 
 dently a port of great consequence, 
 as it furnished no less than 31 ships 
 to the fleet intended for the siege of 
 Calais, a larger quota than was sup- 
 plied by any other town in the king- 
 dom, excepting Fowey and Yar- 
 mouth. We have also incidental 
 proof of its ancient maritime import- 
 ance. Chaucer has taken his “ ship- 
 man” from Dartmouth — 
 
 “ For aught I know he was of Dertemuthe. 
 
 By many a storm his berde had been 
 y-blowe.” 
 
 And we learn that, contemporary with 
 the poet, there were merchants at 
 this place so wealthy, and possessed 
 of so many ships, that it was said 
 of one Hawley — 
 
 “ Blow the wind high, or blow it low, 
 
 It bloweth fair to Hawley’s hoe/’ 
 
 (The freemasons have given the 
 name Hawley to their lodge at this 
 place.) 
 
 At a more recent period Dartmouth 
 sent some of the first adventurers 
 to the banks of Newfoundland, and 
 largely profited by the fishery. Sir 
 Humphrey Gilbert , who took pos- 
 session of that island for Queen 
 Elizabeth, was born near this town, 
 at Greenway, on the shores of the 
 Dart ; and at Sandridge, .Davis, the 
 bold navigator, who here fitted out 
 the ships with which he penetrated 
 the northern seas to the straits which 
 now bear his name. The town is 
 further distinguished as the birth- 
 place of Newcomin , to whom the 
 world is indebted for an invention 
 which has aided human progress 
 more than any other — viz., the 
 steam-engine. . He carried on busi- 
 ness as an ironmonger in Lower 
 
 Street, S. of the New Ground ; and 
 being a person of some reading, 
 was particularly acquainted with 
 the projects and writings of his 
 countryman Dr. Hooke. A genius 
 for mechanics, however, directed 
 Newcomin to the path in which he 
 so highly distinguished himself. He 
 was the first to apply the power of 
 steam successfully to the important 
 purpose of draining mines, and in- 
 vented two machines for the pur- 
 pose. In the earlier of these ma- 
 chines the steam was condensed by 
 a current of cold water admitted on 
 the outside of the cylinder, the piston 
 being driven down by the weight of 
 the atmosphere. The operation of 
 the engine was therefore slow and 
 attended with a great consumption of 
 fuel, and a boy was required to turn the 
 cocks for the alternate admission of 
 steam and water. Accident, however, 
 suggested two important improve- 
 ments before Watt took these engines 
 in hand, viz. the condensation of the 
 steam by the injection of water into 
 the cylinder, by which means a far 
 more rapid action was obtained — and 
 the connection of the stop-cocks with 
 the beam, made the engine self- 
 acting. The grand improvement of 
 substituting steam for the atmosphere, 
 as the power to drive down the piston, 
 was effected, as is well known, by 
 the genius of Watt. He was re- 
 pairing one of Newcomin’ s engines, 
 when he invented his great improve- 
 ments. (A model of Newcomin’s 
 engine is in the museum of the Uni- 
 versity of Glasgow.) Newcomin’s 
 House in Lower Street was taken 
 down in 1864, for the purpose of 
 widening the thoroughfare. Mr. T. 
 Lidstone (archit.) of Dartmouth pur- 
 chased the carved and moulded wood- 
 work of its street frontage, and used 
 it in building his own house, now 
 called Newcomin Cottage , on Ridge 
 Hill, Townstall. In the sitting room 
 is preserved the ‘ clavel ’ (Devon) or 
 wooden lintel over the fire-place at 
 which Newcomin sat when (accord- 
 
180 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 10 . — Torquay to Brixham. 
 
 ing to popular tradition) he first 
 noticed the effect produced by steam 
 on the lid of his kettle. Newcomin 
 Cottage is very picturesque ; and the 
 tourist, who should visit fit, will do 
 justice to the zeal of Mr. Lidstone in 
 preserving relics of so great interest, 
 and to the ability with which he has 
 turned them to account. 
 
 Dartmouth has many historic as- 
 sociations. A portion of the cru- 
 saders’ fleet assembled in its harbour 
 in 11 90, and sailed thence, March 25, 
 to join Coeur-de-Lion at Messina. 
 Off the Start Point they encountered 
 a great storm, which lasted until 
 they entered the Bay of Biscay, when 
 they were saved by St. Thomas of 
 Canterbury, who descended on the 
 mast of the leading ship burning 
 like fire. — Hoveden, B. Abbas. In 
 1347, as above stated, the town con- 
 tributed a large quota to the arma- 
 ment of Edward III. In 1377, im- 
 mediately after the death of that 
 monarch, it was plundered by the 
 French, who in that year swept our 
 shores from Rye to Plymouth. In 
 1403 it returned the visit of the 
 Frenchmen, when, Du Chastel having 
 a second time assaulted and plun- 
 dered Plymouth, Dartmouth com- 
 bined with that town in ravaging the 
 coast of France, burning and sinking 
 forty of the enemy’s ships. In 14U4 
 the French in their turn sought re- 
 venge. Du Chastel again descended 
 upon Dartmouth, landing at Black- 
 pool (see post), but the expedition was 
 this time so roughly received as to be 
 compelled to draw off with the loss 
 of 400 killed and 200 prisoners, in- 
 cluding Du Chastel himself. In the 
 wars of the Roses the Lancastrian 
 party used Dartmouth as their port. 
 In the Great Rebellion the tow'n 
 declared for the Parliament ; and in 
 1643 was taken by Prince Maurice, 
 after a siege of a month. The Royal- 
 ists, however, after an interval of 3 
 years, were attacked by Fairfax, who 
 carried the place by storm in Jan. 
 1646 . Upon this occasion upwards 
 
 of 100 pieces of ordnance were cap- 
 tured ; and the many old towers and 
 forts, now in ruins on the shore or 
 the heights of Dartmouth, show the 
 formidable number of the works with 
 which the general had to contend. 
 The harbour had become for some 
 time of comparatively small impor- 
 tance ; and after the discovery of the 
 New World, that of Plymouth seems 
 to have taken its place. Spenser, in 
 the feast of the rivers, mentions 
 
 “Dart, nigli clioacked with sands of tinnie 
 
 mines.” 
 
 and the harbour had certainly suffered 
 from this. But in Spenser’s days it 
 was still much frequented ; and 
 “ strange barks” were frequently 
 brought by privateers into the har- 
 bour after the defeat of the Armada, 
 when Spain was regarded by England 
 as the one great enemy of the world. 
 In 1592, the ‘ Madre de Dios,’ one 
 of the great Indian ‘ Carracks ’ or 
 plate ships was taken on her way to 
 Spain, and brought into Dartmouth. 
 She w^as a floating castle of 7 decks, 
 wonderfully rich in spices, jewels, 
 rare woods, and tapestries, which 
 were gradually dispersing, when 
 commissioners were sent down from 
 London to recover so much of the 
 spoil as was possible. This was 
 done ; but meanwhile most of the 
 country houses near Dartmouth had 
 been enriched with treasure from the 
 carrack, — hangings, plate, or inlaid 
 woods. In earlier days there had 
 been constant rivalry between the 
 men of Dartmouth and the ‘gallants ’ 
 of Fowey. Their ships constantly 
 attacked each other; and as many 
 lives were lost in these encounters as 
 in the fights between the men of 
 Lowestoft and Yarmouth on the 
 eastern coast. 
 
 The objects of interest in the town 
 are : the old houses in the Butter Row r , 
 in the Fosse Street, and in the 
 Shambles or Higher Street, and on 
 the N. a porchway or entrance to 
 a brick-built house, erected by 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 10 , — Dartmouth Castle . 
 
 181 
 
 the late Mr. Holdsworth, the 
 Governor of Dartmouth Castle, in 
 imitation of the old buildings. It is 
 richly ornamented with carving by 
 Dartmouth workmen, after models in 
 the town, and cased curiously with 
 slates, so disposed as to resemble the 
 scales of an armadillo. Townstall 
 Ch. on the hill-top figured con- 
 spicuously when Fairfax fell on 
 Dartmouth (it was well manned, and 
 guns were mounted on the tower), 
 and contains some good details, 
 chiefly Perp. The Church, of St. Sa- 
 viour, ded.in 1372, was partly rebuilt 
 (the arcades) in the next centy. 
 The stranger should particularly re- 
 mark the door at the S. entrance, with 
 its curious iron ornament (1631), 
 representing grotesque lions impaled 
 on a tree, which is fashioned with its 
 full complement of roots, branches, 
 and leaves. (The lion occupies a 
 conspicuous place in the arms of 
 Dartmouth, — a king in a boat, sup- 
 ported on each side by this king of 
 beasts. The shield may be seen on 
 the Jail , near the W. entrance of St. 
 Saviour's.) The *stone pulpit of St. 
 Saviour’s, carved, gilt, and painted, 
 is one of the most remarkable ex- 
 amples in the county, and deserves a 
 special pilgrimage. The same may be 
 said of the oak *Roodscreen, which is 
 exceedinglyhandsome, and rivals even 
 the pulpit in the variety of its tints 
 and the intricacy of its workmanship. 
 In the floor of the chancel is the 
 Brass of John Hawley , founder of the 
 Chancel (1408), in armour ; and 2 
 wives, Joan, whose hand he holds 
 (1394), and Alice (1403). This is a 
 fine example. Hawley was probably 
 the merchant of Dartmouth who, in 
 “ 1390, waged the navie of shippes of 
 the ports of his own charges, and 
 tooke 34 shippes laden with wyne 
 to the summe of fifteen hundred 
 tunnes.” — Stowe's Annals. The vi- 
 sitor will also direct his attention 
 to the altarpiece, “ Christ rais- 
 ing the widow's son,” by Brocke- 
 don, the artist and Alpine traveller, 
 
 a native of Totnes, a picture which 
 gained the prize of 100 guineas at 
 the British Institution. The galleries 
 and panellings of this interesting 
 church are painted, gilded, and 
 emblazoned with coats of arms of 
 the mayor and magistrates. Among 
 them may be noticed the lion of 
 Pomeroy, and the badges of FitzSte- 
 phen, Fleming, and Carew. The 
 chancel has been reseated ; and it is 
 to be hoped that any farther restora- 
 tion will not involve the “ destruc- 
 tion ” of what is now so interesting. 
 
 After a visit to the ch. and a sur- 
 vey of the old houses, the stranger 
 can search for other interesting ob- 
 jects on each side of the harbour, 
 first proceeding S. by the neglected 
 ruin of the Old Castle, and onward, 
 passing the vale of Warfieet, and 
 the seats of G. P. Bidder, Esq. 
 (Ravensbury), H. Bridon, Esq. (War- 
 fleet), and Mrs. Fotheringham (Gun- 
 field), to 
 
 Dartmouth Castle. This picturesque 
 building is situated at the extreme 
 point of the promontory which bounds 
 the entrance of the harbour, mount- 
 ing guard at the very edge of a 
 shelving rock of glossy slate, and 
 washed by the sea at high water. It 
 consists of a square and a round 
 tower, the latter of which is the 
 elder, and supposed to date from the 
 reign of Hem VII. (Edw. IV. in 
 1431 covenanted with the men of 
 Dartmouth to pay them 30^. yearly 
 from the customs of Exeter and of 
 Dartmouth, on condition of their 
 building a “ stronge and myghtye 
 and defensyve new tower,” and of 
 their protecting the harbour with a 
 chain.) Adjoining this building are 
 a modern casemated battery, the little 
 ch. of St. Petrox (containing an ar- 
 morial gallery as at St. Saviour’s, and 
 Brasses of the Roope family), and 
 the ruins of an ancient manor-house 
 (once belonging to the Southcotes), 
 the whole being enclosed by a wall 
 and a ditch. The hill, which rises 
 
Sect. I. 
 
 182 Route 10 . — Torquay to Brixham . 
 
 behind to the height of 300 ft., is 
 crowned by the remains of another 
 fort, which is mentioned by Fair- 
 fax in his despatch to the Parlia- 
 ment under the name of Gallant's 
 Bower. The round tower of the 
 castle is now a magazine, but for- 
 merly no doubt received the iron 
 chain which was stretched as a de- 
 fence across the mouth of the har- 
 bour, and was here drawn tight by a 
 capstan. That this was its use has 
 been made apparent by the discovery, 
 in the wall of the ground-floor, of 
 a large wooden bolster or roller, 
 which was evidently intended to 
 ease the chain as it passed through 
 the wall. On the opposite shore, a 
 groove in the rock was clearly 
 scooped out for the reception of the 
 chain. (Portsmouth, Plymouth, and 
 most of our ancient harbours, were 
 secured in a similar manner.) The 
 best view of the Castle is, in the 
 general opinion, obtained from the 
 sea ; but, weather permitting, all 
 strangers should take boat, and de- 
 cide this question for themselves. 
 From Dartmouth Castle the visitor 
 should return to the quay, and cross 
 once more by ferry to the little town 
 of 
 
 Kingsweare (if he has not examined 
 it on first arriving), which bears every 
 mark of antiquity, and is supposed to 
 be older even than Dartmouth, The 
 ch. was rebuilt (except the tower) 
 in 1845, when a very singular cavity, 
 containing the bones of infants only, 
 mixed with quick lime, was found 
 under the foundation wall of the 
 chancel. (Arch. Journ. iii. 263.) The 
 ch. stands at some height above the 
 shore; and yet higher is a fort of 5 
 bastions, called by Fairfax “Kings- 
 worthFort/ > but now known as Mount 
 Ridley , commanding a fine view. A 
 pleasant path leads from the ch. to 
 Brookhill, at the mouth of the har- 
 bour. 
 
 At Kingsweare there is a conve- 
 nient hotel abutting on the rly. 
 
 station. There is also established 
 here the Bart Yacht Club , of about 
 200 members. The “ Royal Rowing 
 Regatta,” held annually in August, 
 affords a most picturesque and at- 
 tractive scene. 
 
 At a short distance from Kings- 
 weare the path reaches the Beacon 
 (T. L. Prinsep, Esq.), a mansion re- 
 markable for its commanding and 
 beautiful position. In a field about 
 100 yds. above this house is a ter- 
 race, which from time immemorial 
 has been known as the Butts , and 
 was, doubtless, the place where the 
 archers formerly practised with the 
 bow (it has now been made part of 
 the public highway): i m. beyond 
 the Beacon is 
 
 Brookhill (INlrs. A. Packe), distin- 
 guished for the romantic beauty of 
 the grounds, and the interesting em- 
 bellishment (by Mr. Holdsworth, its 
 former proprietor) of the house, 
 which is deservedly considered one 
 of the principal ornaments of Dart- 
 mouth Harbour. It lies in a wooded 
 cove, so sheltered by hills as to be 
 one of the warmest spots in the 
 county, where oaks and evergreens 
 of remarkable size (mingled with 
 the olive, which grows unprotected 
 in this sheltered spot) descend the 
 shelving shore to the very brink of 
 the sea, flourishing strangely on 
 storm-beaten crags amid showers of 
 spray, which are plentifully thrown 
 upon them when the wind is from 
 the S. On the seaward point of this 
 cove are the foundations of a castle 
 which was evidently of importance, 
 and corresponded with the Castle on 
 the opposite shore ; below, at the 
 base of the cliff, among the weed- 
 grown rocks, are the traces of a 
 landing-place, and a groove cut in 
 the slate for securing the chain 
 which was formerly stretched across 
 the mouth of the harbour. Close at 
 hand was the guard-room where the 
 men kept watch over the chain, for 
 
Devonshire. Route 10 .— Dartmouth : Excursions . 183 
 
 the cliff has been evidently cut away 
 to form a level space, and on the 
 face of the rock are the holes in 
 which the beams and rafters were 
 inserted. On ascending from the 
 examination of these interesting 
 relics, the stranger should diverge 
 to the rt. and peep into a romantic 
 recess where large oak-trees grow 
 from the crevices of the cliff, and 
 have been whimsically twisted in 
 their efforts to keep erect. The 
 house can only be seen by special 
 permission. In the dining-room the 
 panels of the wainscoting are em- 
 blazoned with the arms of the most 
 distinguished families of the county, 
 in illustration of the histories of 
 Devonshire and Dartmouth, which 
 are ingeniously set forth on the ceil- 
 ing by the following method : — A 
 number of shields, each stamped with 
 the name and the date of a Devon 
 “ worthy/’ are arranged in a cir- 
 cular order round a single shield in 
 the centre, which records one of the 
 principal events in the history of the 
 county — the landing of the Prince 
 of Orange in Torbay. Other shields 
 commemorate the many eminent di- 
 vines who were natives of Devon- 
 shire. On the border of the ceiling 
 the history of Dartmouth is told by 
 similar shields, on which the leading 
 events are inscribed in order. Over 
 the chimney-piece is some moulding 
 in plaster which was taken from 
 Newcomin’s sitting-room, and repre- 
 sents Shadrach, Meshach, and Abed- 
 nego before Nebuchadnezzar. Parts 
 of the chimney-piece are of black 
 oak, to which an interesting legend 
 attaches. These were brought from 
 Greenway, on the Dart, where they 
 formed a portion of the chimney- 
 nook in which it is said Sir Walter 
 Raleigh indulged himself with the 
 first pipe of tobacco ever smoked in 
 England. Above Brookhill is Foun- 
 tain Violet (W. Johnstone Neale, 
 Esq.). Close upon the shore, beyond 
 the grounds of Brookhill, is Kings- 
 weave Castle, which has been restored 
 
 by the owner, C. Seale Hayne, Esq. 
 The geologist may remark on the 
 cliffs of the neighbourhood that the 
 dip of the strata tends to their pre- 
 servation. 
 
 The Cape and Natal Company’s 
 steamboats, and the Red Ball line of 
 steamers to the W. Indies, make this 
 their port of call, passengers em- 
 barking from the rly. pier. A 
 considerable trade has been formed 
 with the neighbouring towns on the 
 S. Devon rly. for coals, grain, &c. 
 
 Excursions from Dartmouth : to 
 Brixham ( ante ), to Slapton Sands , 
 and the Start Point (post), and to 
 Totnes by boat up the river (see Rte. 
 7). The grand and romantic coast 
 of the Prawle , Bolt Head, & c., is most 
 agreeably reached by the following 
 delightful walk to Salcombe (which 
 is 18 m. by the old road through Hal- 
 well and Kingsbridge, passing Wood- 
 bury Castle on the 1.). 
 
 2 Stoke Fleming , a retired village, 
 with a ch. so conspicuously placed 
 as to form a useful landmark for 
 Dartmouth harbour. The manor has 
 belonged to the families of Fleming, 
 Mohun, Carew, and Southcote, and. 
 in a garden adjoining the ch. are 
 some crumbling masses of red sand- 
 stone which formed part of the an- 
 cient manor-house. These are of 
 Norm, character. The Church itself 
 (Dec., but greatly altered in the 
 Perp. period) has been (1872) almost 
 rebuilt (P. St. Aubyn, architect). 
 The piers of the main arcade are 
 Dec. (compare those in the churches 
 of Townstall and Blackawton), with 
 Perp. arches built on them. The 
 tower is late Perp. There are some 
 modern stained windows by Lavers 
 and Barrand . Within the tower is 
 the effigy of an unknown lady, circ. 
 1310, and in the transept is a fine 
 brass for John Corp (1361), and his 
 granddaughter Eleanor (1391), with 
 canopy. 
 
184 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Route 10 . — Torquay to Brixham. 
 
 1 Blackpool, another small village 
 on a secluded little bay of the same 
 name, perhaps so called as having 
 been fatally mistaken by vessels 
 running for Dartmouth. The beach 
 is composed of an extremely fine 
 shingle. Here Du Chatel and the 
 French landed in 1404 (see ante , 
 Dartmouth ). From this place there 
 is a road through the village of 
 Street , and a path along the edge 
 of the clitfs, which are of various 
 colours and very lustrous, to 
 
 Slapton Sands , now traversed by a 
 carriage-road as far as Torcross. 
 (There is a comfortable hotel at the 
 N. end of the sands.) Here com- 
 mences a vast bank of regular beach 
 minute pebbles, extremely heavy to 
 walk on, which extends, almost un- 
 interruptedly, to within a short dis- 
 tance of the Start. The accumula- 
 tion is due to the exposure of the 
 shore to a long range of breakers, 
 and to the circumstance of the shingle 
 being unable to travel so as to escape 
 out of the bay. (The sands are 
 divided by name — there being no 
 real division whatever — into Slapton 
 Sands, Torcross Sands, and Hall 
 Sands. The Sands Hotel is at the 
 N. end ; Torcross quite in the centre; 
 and the hamlets of Beasands and Hall- 
 sands at the S. end. The whole is 7 
 m. in extent). From the northern 
 end of the bank of pebbles to Torcross, 
 a distance of m., it is separated 
 from the land by a freshwater lake 
 called Slapton Lea , which is formed 
 by the water of three small streams, 
 descending from as many valleys, 
 and dammed in by the shingle. The 
 Lea, covering above 207 acres, con- 
 tains some fine pike, perch, and 
 roach, but no trout. In the winter 
 it abounds with wild-fowl. The 
 osprey sometimes visits it ; and in 
 valleys near, the spoonbill, the glossy 
 ibis, the little bittern, and the little 
 bustard, have been taken. The Lea 
 is crossed by a bridge, dividing it 
 into two parts. The Upper Lea is 
 
 overgrown with reeds and water- 
 plants — the Lower is open water. 
 It somewhat resembles the “broads” 
 of Norfolk, but is far less picturesque. 
 The Dec. ch. of Slapton (6 m. from 
 Dartmouth), with a low tower and 
 spire, contains a beautiful screen. 
 To this parish John Flavel , an emi- 
 nent nonconformist, retired from 
 Dartmouth after the passing of 
 the Oxford or Five Mile Act. He 
 found an asylum at Hudscott, then a 
 seat of the Kolles (and still the pro- 
 perty of that family), where he 
 preached in the great hall at mid- 
 night. Close to Slapton Church is 
 the tower of a collegiate chantry, 
 established by Sir Guy de Brian, 
 standard-bearer to Ed. III. at Calais, 
 1349, and one of the “ prime founders 
 of the Order of the Garter.” The 
 tower is thickly mantled with ivy. 
 Poole in this parish was the resi- 
 dence of the Bryans, and afterwards 
 of Sir John Hawkins, the “ Achines ” 
 so dreaded by Philip II. (See Ply- 
 mouth, Rte. 7.) Tradition says that 
 his wife “ walked on a velvet carpet 
 from Poole to the ch. door.” 
 
 Seakale grows wild on Slapton 
 sands, and was first cultivated and 
 eaten at Stoke Fleming (between 
 Slapton and Dartmouth). The gar- 
 dener of Mr. Southcote of Stoke, 
 observed that the seakale was bleached 
 by the sands of the beach. He brought 
 some roots thence, and cultivated 
 them. Some were sent as presents 
 to Mr. Southcote’s friends at Bath, 
 then (about 1775) a great resort of 
 fashion. From Bath the reputation 
 of seakale soon spread throughout 
 England. It was first publicly sold 
 in Exeter market at half-a-crown a 
 root. 
 
 4$ m. Torcross (near the Sands 
 Hotel , on the beach), is a secluded 
 little hamlet at the southern end 
 of the Slapton Sands, which are here 
 bounded by argillaceous slate cliffs of 
 a light greenish hue. (There is, 
 however, no break in the cliffs, and 
 
Devonshire, Route 10. — Dartmouth : Excursions . 
 
 185 
 
 the end of the Slapton Sands is only 
 marked by the carriage-road turning 
 inland towards Kingsbridge.) There 
 is a tolerable inn, besides several 
 lodging houses, at Torcross. It is 
 much frequented by the neigh- 
 bouring gentry as a watering-place, 
 and is the most easterly station of 
 the pilchard fishery ; but the shoals 
 rarely pass the point of the Start, 
 and the Torcross fishermen have 
 to proceed as far as the Bolt for a 
 chance of success. The Newfound- 
 land dogs kept by the fishermen of 
 Torcross, Hallsands, and Beasands, 
 deserve notice. They are as useful 
 as sheep-dogs to the farmer, and 
 are exempt from tax. When the 
 surf is so rough that boats cannot 
 approach the shore near enough for 
 a rope to be thrown, the word is 
 given to a dog, who plunges into the 
 water, and brings back the rope in 
 his mouth. Many lives have been 
 saved by these dogs ; and they keep 
 careful watch over the “ways” or 
 pieces of wood placed under the 
 boats to draw them up on the beach. 
 About lj m. inland is the church- 
 town of Stokenham (the ch. is of 
 small interest) ; and Widdecombe 
 (B. E. Holdsworth, Esq.), a fine 
 estate embracing the Start Point, 
 and that lonely romantic coast be- 
 tween the Start Point and Lanna- 
 comb Mill. Stokely House , Sir 
 Lydston Newman, Bt., and Cole- 
 ridge , J. Allen, Esq., are other seats 
 in this neighbourhood. 
 
 From Torcross a path (which is, 
 however, obscure, and little used — 
 the pedestrian may make his way 
 by the sands) leads southward along 
 the edge of grey slate cliffs, descend- 
 ing again to the sands at a slate- 
 quarry, which opens to the beach 
 by an archway. The traveller is 
 now approaching the termination of 
 Start Bay , and the grand coast of the 
 chlorite and mica - slate formation, 
 which, including the promontory of 
 the Start, extends westward as far as 
 the Bolt Tail. Two secluded little 
 
 fishing hamlets, Beasands and Hall- 
 sands, are passed on the shore, which 
 then sweeps round to the picturesque 
 promontory of 
 
 3J The Start. This headland at 
 once shows the stranger that he has 
 entered upon a geological formation 
 differing from the grauwacke slates 
 which he has been traversing from 
 Dartmouth. The ridge stretches 
 boldly to sea, sloped on each side like 
 the roof of a house, and crowned along 
 its entire length by fanciful crags, 
 strangely weathered, and shaggy with 
 moss. Its different sides strikingly 
 illustrate the influence of a stormy 
 sea on the picturesqueness of a coast. 
 On the W., the dark cliff, incessantly 
 assaulted, presents a ruinous appear- 
 ance; on the E., although moulded 
 from the same material, it descends 
 to the waves in a smooth precipice. 
 The lighthouse is situated at the ex- 
 treme point, about 100 ft. above the 
 water, and exhibits two lights — a re- 
 volving light for the Channel, and a 
 fixed light to direct vessels inshore 
 clear of a shoal called the Skerries . 
 Here the traveller has reached a point 
 beyond which the sea is occasionally 
 agitated by a roll from the Atlantic, 
 the ground swell of the ocean rarely 
 extending farther eastward than the 
 Start. The name is the Anglo-Saxon 
 Steort , a “tail” or promontory (so 
 the bird called a red -start from 
 its red tail) ; but it is commonly ex- 
 plained as the starting-point of ships 
 outward bound from the Channel. 
 Polwhele’s suggestion that the name 
 records the Phoenician Astarte — 
 
 “ the mooned Asbtarotb, 
 Heaven’s queen and mother both,” 
 
 — is too absurd to need refutation. 
 A few rugged steps and “ juts of 
 rock” lead down from the lighthouse 
 to a miniature bay and pebbly beach. 
 The Start Point is one of the locali- 
 ties selected by Prof. Airey for the 
 establishment of a time-ball in con- 
 nection with that at Devonport, and 
 
186 
 
 Route 10 . — Torquay to Brixham * 
 
 with the Greenwich Observatory. 
 This has not yet been carried out. 
 
 From this promontory those who 
 are fond of cliff-scenery should pro- 
 ceed along the coast to the Prawle 
 and Salcombe, a dist. of about 9 m.; 
 and, bending their steps to the next 
 headland of the Peartree , look back 
 at the western face of the Start. The 
 actual cliff is not high, but, like that of 
 the Land’s End of Cornwall, strangely 
 dark and gloomy, and an impressive 
 ruin. It is further remarkable for 
 bands of variously coloured quartz 
 veins, which, descending vertically to 
 the sea, give the rocks a ribboned 
 appearance. Similar quartz veins pro- 
 duce a happy effect in a little bay 
 just W. of the Peartree, where they 
 cover the slate, as it were, with a net- 
 work, the beach being almost wholly 
 composed of rolled fragments of 
 white quartz. From the Peartree 
 the stone-crested hills recede from 
 the shore, and, curving as they run 
 westward, enclose a terrace of fields, 
 which is bounded towards the sea by 
 a low cliff of earth resting upon a 
 talus of slate. The traveller may mar- 
 vel how this apparently feeble barrier 
 can resist the waves ; but, on a closer 
 examination, he will perceive that 
 the dip of the strata is directed to- 
 wards the W., and at such an angle 
 with the plane of the horizon that 
 the sea rolls harmlessly up the slope. 
 This terrace is terminated on the W. 
 by Lannacomb Mill , where the craggy 
 belt again sweeps to the coast in a 
 soaring eminence, notched like the 
 edge of a saw. Beyond this point 
 the hills a second time recede, and 
 form a semicircle ; but in places 
 they break irregularly, and are dis- 
 posed as a background to two ter- 
 races, one high above the other. The 
 effect of this grouping is extremely 
 beautiful. To this bay succeeds a 
 smaller indentation, near the centre 
 of which the stranger will remark the 
 whimsical station of some fishermen. 
 The sea has formed in the slate a 
 little channel just wide enough to 
 
 Sect. I* 
 
 allow the passage of boats to a few 
 square yards of beach, upon which 
 the craft are laid ; while the chasms 
 of a conical rock, a short distance 
 from the shore, are converted to the 
 purposes of a sail-room and fish- 
 cellar. This bay is terminated W. 
 by perhaps the finest headland on 
 the S. coast of Devon, the 
 
 5 Prawle Point, bounding on the 
 E. the entrance to the Salcombe Es- 
 tuary, which is sheltered on the W. 
 by the more elevated and massive 
 headland of the Bolt . These two 
 promontories are the most southerly 
 points of the county ; and, when 
 viewed from the sea in connection 
 with the inlet, and the town of Sal- 
 combe just peeping through the open- 
 ing, form by far the most romantic 
 scene on the coast. (“ Prol in Anglia,” 
 or Prawle Point, is mentioned by an 
 early scholiast on Adam of Bremen 
 (ed. Lindenbrog), as one of the 
 stations which guided ships on their 
 way from the North seas, through 
 the Channel, toward the coast of 
 France. Port St. Matthieu, on the 
 opposite coast of Britanny [which 
 trends away S. nearly in a line 
 with Prawle Point] was the next 
 station.) The Prawle is principally 
 composed of gneiss rock, which 
 on the western side is weathered 
 like a surface of snow which has 
 been exposed to the sun’s rays. It 
 is everywhere broken into crags, 
 and terminated at the point by a sin- 
 gular archway, through which a boat 
 might sail in calm weather. Many 
 years ago the Crocodile frigate was 
 wrecked upon this headland with a 
 great loss of life. The pedestrian 
 can now continue his way along the 
 ivy-hung cliffs, or strike inland to a 
 lane which will lead him to Portle- 
 mouth . The ch. is dedicated to a 
 
 mysterious S. Onolaus(?). In the 
 ch.-yard is an epitaph recording the 
 death of a farmer (1782), “cut off 
 by poison ” administered by his ap- 
 prentice girl : — 
 
Devonshire. Route 10 . — Dartmouth : Excursions. 
 
 187 
 
 “ 0 may all people warning take, 
 
 For she was burned to a stake,” 
 
 She was first hanged however, at 
 Exeter, and then burned; the last 
 recorded instance in this county of 
 such a punishment. Hence he will 
 cross by ferry to 
 
 4 Salcombe ( Inns : Victoria Inn ; 
 King’s Arms ; but both of a very hum- 
 ble description). This picturesque 
 village (pop. 434), lying far south of 
 the principal roads, and separated 
 from them by a broad tract of coun- 
 try comparatively uninteresting, is 
 rarely visited by travellers ; but the 
 coast in the neighbourhood, com- 
 prising the headlands of the Start, 
 the Prawle, and the Bolt, is the 
 grandest on the S. of Devon, and the 
 shores of Bigbury Bay exceedingly 
 romantic, although almost as un- 
 known as those of Kamschatka. 
 The district round Salcombe, bound- 
 ed on the E. and W. by the Start and 
 Bolt Tail, is composed of the hard 
 rocks of the chlorite and mica slate 
 formation, and for this reason has 
 withstood the assaults of the sea, 
 while in Bigbury Bay, W. of it, 
 many acres have been swallowed 
 by the sea within living memory. 
 Thus it projects into the Channel 
 like a wedge, which is pierced about 
 the centre by the estuary which flows 
 past Salcombe to Kingsbridge. Sal- 
 combe lies just within the mouth 
 of this inlet, and is a small retired 
 town, pleasantly situated, and so 
 sheltered by high land as to be one 
 of the warmest in the kingdom. 
 The myrtle and other tender plants 
 clothe the shores; the lemon, orange- 
 tree, and aloe flower in the gardens : 
 but beyond the protecting influence 
 of the ridge on the coast, the country 
 consists of bare bleak hills, where 
 but few trees can grow above the 
 valleys. Salcombe has been called 
 the “ Montpellier of the North,” and 
 its mean winter temperature is but 
 2° -4 Fahr. below that of Montpel- 
 lier and of Florence {Humboldt). 
 
 To descend from the scenery to 
 
 the produce of Salcombe, the stran- 
 ger should know that the town is 
 noted for white ale , a beverage pecu- 
 liar to a district which would be 
 bounded by a line drawn between 
 Plymouth and Totnes, along the 
 rivets Dart and intermediate coast, 
 and first made by some genius of 
 Kingsbridge. It differs essentially, 
 both in composition and colour, 
 from common ale. It is made with 
 a smaller quantity of hops, and con- 
 tains flour and spices ; besides an in- 
 gredient called “ grout,” the com- 
 position of which is a mystery con- 
 fined to a few families; but some 
 skill is required in its preparation, 
 and many fail in the attempt. When 
 poured into a glass, it has the ap- 
 pearance of tea. It is intended to be 
 drunk quite new, according to the 
 saying, that it is made on the Sa- 
 turday to be tapped on the Sunday. 
 White ale has, however, much de- 
 teriorated of late years, in conse- 
 quence of the neglect of adding eggs 
 to its ingredients. The “ district ” 
 ch. of Salcombe was built in 1843. 
 In the ch.-yard remark the aloes, 
 yuccas, myrtles, and veronicas, — all 
 of which flourish profusely. 
 
 The harbour of Salcombe , like that 
 of Dartmouth, is sheltered by high 
 land, but it has a bar at low water, 
 and sunken rocks at the mouth, 
 which render its entrance by night 
 hazardous. The rugged foundation 
 of the neighbouring coast is the 
 haunt of crabs and lobsters, which 
 are captured in numbers, and sent 
 to different parts of the country. 
 The pinna ingens f with its silky 
 byssus, from which costly robes 
 were made in ancient times, and 
 from which gloves and stockings are 
 still manufactured at Naples, is found 
 in Salcombe Bay. Adjoining the 
 town are Ringrone , Lord Kingsale, 
 and the Moult , a villa of the Earl of 
 Devon, but occupied by Lord Justice 
 Turner. 
 
 From Salcombe the traveller 
 should visit the Prawle Point , about 
 
188 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 10 . — Torquay to Brixham* 
 
 4 m. ; and, weather permitting, make 
 an excursion by boat from the Bolt 
 Head to the Bolt Tail , a distance of 
 about 5 m., coasting the intermediate 
 range of black cliffs, so remarkable 
 for their massive proportions, alti- 
 tude, and the dark caverns with which 
 they are pierced. He should also 
 devote a day to the several inter- 
 esting spots on the summit of the 
 ridge, which he may visit by the 
 following walk : — 
 
 He will take a road from the town 
 towards the mouth of the harbour, 
 passing Woodville ( — Yates, Esq.) 
 and the ruin of Salcombe Castle , 
 or “ Fort Charles,” whose battered 
 old stones tell a tale of the civil 
 war. The castle had been repaired 
 at the commencement of the Re- 
 bellion, and placed under the com- 
 mand of Sir Edmund Fortescue, 
 when in 1645 it was invested by 
 Col. Weldon, the Pari. Governor of 
 Plymouth. After Weldon’s arrival 
 the retired inlet of Salcombe was a 
 scene of incessant uproar. For a 
 period of 4 months the batteries 
 thundered from each bank of the 
 river, but at the end of that time 
 the garrison capitulated. For this 
 spirited resistance Sir Edmund For- 
 tescue was allowed to march with 
 the honours of war to his mansion 
 of Fallapit House (4 m. N.E. by E. of 
 Kingsbridge, see Rte. 15), where the 
 key of the castle was preserved until 
 recently. It is still in the posses- 
 sion of the late owner of Fallapit, 
 W. B. Fortescue, Esq. The field above 
 this tower is called Gore , or Gutter , 
 and tradition points it out as the 
 scene of a bloody affray. The sum- 
 mit of the hill is known as the Bury , 
 and marked with an old circular 
 entrenchment. The road now de- 
 scends to a patch of beach (the N. 
 Sands), below which are found the 
 fossil remains of a nut-wood, and 
 then skirts the grounds of the Moult 
 to another strip of sand (the S. 
 Sands), which likewise entombs the 
 
 trees of other days. These relics 
 may also be found in Mill Bay , on 
 the opposite shore, where they are 
 exposed when the tide has receded 
 a few feet from high-water mark. 
 The traveller is now at the foot of 
 the promontory of the 
 
 Bolt Head , composed of mica-slate, 
 and rising 430 ft. from its base. 
 ( Bolt was the name of a sort of 
 arrow, the head and feathering of 
 which are represented by the Bolt 
 Head and Tail.) He may observe, 
 in the low cliff to the 1., the en- 
 trance of a cavern called the Bull’s 
 Hole , which, the country-people 
 aver, passes obliquely through this 
 high ridge of land, and opens again 
 to the shore in Saw-Mill Bay, which 
 we shall presently visit. They tell 
 also an absurd story of a bull which 
 once entered it and came out at the 
 opposite end with its coat changed 
 from black to white, and it is curi- 
 ous enough to find a similar legend 
 current on the coast of Spain, near 
 Coruna. The mysterious cavern 
 may be visited at low water. It 
 is haunted, like other caverns on 
 this coast, by numbers of otters, 
 which may be heard here whistling 
 and calling to their mates and young 
 ones. The traveller, having ascended 
 to the top of the headland, will see 
 below him, and just within the point, 
 the little cove of Stair Hole , a fa- 
 vourite retreat of grey mullet, and 
 perhaps deriving its name from a 
 steep roadway by which seaweed is 
 carried from the beach to a neigh- 
 bouring farm. The Giant’s Grave , in 
 Stair Hole bottom, is a straight ram- 
 part or barrow ( ?), about 56 paces 
 long: This bottom, according to tra- 
 dition, was a “ Danish settlement 
 and ‘‘ by the records of England,” 
 say the local guides, “ it was a Danish 
 town, and had 60 dwellers.” The Sal- 
 combe Mew Stone bounds it on the S. 
 Proceeding along the ridge, he will 
 pass in succession the Little Goat , 
 halfway down to the sea ; the Great 
 
Devonshire. Route 10. — Dartmouth : Excursions . 
 
 189 
 
 Goat, a rock on the summit — their 
 resemblance, if they have any, to 
 the animal in question being dis- 
 tinguishable only from the water ; 
 Steeple Cove , below a pinnacle of 
 slate ; and the Old Man and his 
 Children, a whimsical crag, and a 
 number of smaller rocks, which, 
 grouped in a cluster, very probably 
 bear a likeness to a family party 
 when viewed from the sea. A sharp 
 descent now leads into 
 
 Sewer- Mill Cove (3 m. from Sal- 
 combe), terminating a valley, which 
 is the only break in the range from 
 the Bolt Head to the Tail. (M uch of 
 the district here is called the Sewers. 
 [A.-S. S8B-ware = the dwellers by the 
 sea ?] It is divided into East, VV est, 
 Middle, Lower Sewers : and the 
 farm-houses bear the same name.) 
 Here the hills are bold and rocky, 
 and the cliffs, where beaten by the 
 waves, so dark in hue as to give a 
 solemn grandeur to the scene. There 
 are some tumuli and ancient mounds 
 on the hills above the sea. On the 
 shore is the entrance of Bull's 
 Hole cavern, previously noticed, and 
 outside the cove the Ham Stone, 
 to which a saying of the Salcombe 
 people attaches. When a young 
 married couple have no child born 
 at the end of 12 months, the gossips 
 assert that the husband should be 
 sent to dig up the Ham Stone with 
 a wooden pickaxe. Further W. we 
 reach 
 
 Bolbury Down, the loftiest land be- 
 tween the cove and the Tail, where, 
 just over the edge of the cliff, at the 
 summit of the hill, is a chasm called 
 Ralph's Hole , which was long the re- 
 treat of a noted smuggler. It is easy 
 of access, but difficult to find without 
 a guide. The botanist will observe 
 that the furze-bushes in its vicinity 
 are thickly mantled with the red fila- 
 ments of the parasite Cuscuta Epithy- 
 mum, or Lesser Dodder. A short way 
 beyond the head of Bolbury Down a 
 
 very interesting scene is displayed. 
 The cliff, which is here about 400 ft. 
 in height, has been undermined by 
 the waves, and has fallen headlong in 
 a ruin, the fragments of which appear 
 as if they had been suddenly arrested 
 when bounding towards the sea. 
 Thejr are lodged most curiously one 
 upon another, and the clefts among 
 them are so deep and numerous as 
 to have given the name of Rotten 
 Pits to the locality. A little further 
 W. another landslip has occurred, 
 but with such a different result that 
 the stranger must take especial care 
 to look where he goes. The ground 
 has been rent inland some distance 
 in fissures, parallel with the shore, 
 and concealed by furze- bushes; many 
 are little more than a yard in width, 
 but of unknown depth, at first de- 
 scending vertically, and then slant- 
 ing at an angle which prevents their 
 being sounded. Others, again, are 
 scarcely larger than chimneys, but 
 just of a size to admit the body of a 
 man. These chasms are called the 
 Windstone Pits, and were once railed 
 in for the protection of sheep and, 
 perhaps, strangers. At present, how- 
 ever, there is nothing to warn the 
 traveller of the danger in his path. 
 From the Windstone Pits the land 
 shelves towards the 
 
 Bolt Tail, and is indented at the 
 shore by Ramillies Cove, so named 
 as the scene of the disastrous wreck 
 of the Ramillies frigate, 1760. She 
 was a 74-gun ship, with 734 men on 
 board, all of whom perished except 
 26, who jumped off the stern upon 
 the rocks. Some of the ship’s guns 
 are said to be still visible, 6 or 7 
 fathoms deep in the water. Just 
 inside the Tail, in Bighury Bay, is the 
 wild cove and hamlet of Hope (2 m. 
 from Sewer-mill Bay), inhabited by a 
 few poor fishermen, who now subsist 
 upon the produce of their nets, but 
 were formerly notorious as some of 
 the most successful smugglers on the 
 coast. Here a benighted traveller 
 
190 
 
 Route 11 —Exeter to Newton Abbot. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 may find tolerable accommodation at 
 the Yacht inn , or, if proceeding fur- 
 ther along the coast, at Bantham , 
 a village ^ m. above the mouth of 
 the Avon, where there is a ferry 
 across the river. The remoteness of 
 this cove of Hope is pleasing to the 
 imagination, while the view from it is 
 suggestive of an unexplored solitude. 
 The eye wanders down the shore of 
 Bigbury Bay , a district isolated by 
 rivers, far from busy roads, and 
 rarely visited save by some rambling 
 pedestrian. About 1772, the Chan- 
 tiloupe, a large West Indian vessel, 
 was wrecked here, and all on board 
 perished. It is said that Edmund 
 Burke, thinking that some relatives 
 might have been on board her, came 
 down to make inquiries, and was a 
 guest for some days at Bowrings- 
 leigh. A striking object in the view 
 about 1 m. distant, is the 
 
 Thurlestone, a perforated rock 
 islanded in the sea, and geologi- 
 cally remarkable as an outlying 
 patch of red sandstone. The village 
 of Thurlestone, a little inland, is 
 quaint, with many rose-covered cot- 
 tages. The church contains a carved 
 pulpit; and over the S. porch is a 
 curious figure in granite. Yet farther 
 in the bay, at the mouth of the Avon 
 (4 m.), (Onnamouth, as it is gene- 
 rally called ; the name Avon is 
 usually contracted into Aune), is 
 
 Burr or Burgh Island, once crowned 
 with a chapel dedicated to St. Mi- 
 chael, and more recently used as a 
 station for the pilchard fishery. It 
 is about 10 acres in extent, and 
 connected with the mainland at low 
 water. The sands are rich in minute 
 shells, which may sometimes be 
 gathered by handsful ; and on the 
 island, the wild squill (scilla verna) 
 is so abundant that in the season of 
 flowering the ground has the ap- 
 pearance of being overspread with 
 patches of blue carpet. There are 
 no remains of the old chapel. (For 
 
 Bigbury and Bigbury Bay, see Rte. 1 5.) 
 The visitor can now return to Sal- 
 combe by a direct road through 
 Marlborough (4j m,), or retrace his 
 steps, which is the better plan, as 
 the coast in this part of Devon has a 
 monopoly of the picturesque. 
 
 From Salcombe we can make for 
 the Plymouth road at Modbury ; 
 selecting either the high road, which 
 makes a circuit to Kingsbridge by 
 Marlborough, or a cross road, which 
 takes a more direct course near the 
 river (4 m.). On foot the distance to 
 Kingsbridge may be still more cur- 
 tailed by a field-path by Shabicombe 
 and Blank's Mill . 
 
 (For Kingsbridge see Rte. 15). 
 
 ROUTE 11. 
 
 EXETER TO NEWTON ABBOT, BY 
 CHUDLEIGH. (UGBROOKE, HALDON.) 
 
 This is the old turnpike-road from 
 Exeter to Newton. 
 
 From Exeter our route crosses the 
 ridge of Haldon, which attains an 
 elevation of 818 ft. above the sea, 
 and is of the same class, geologically 
 speaking, as the Black Down Hills ; 
 the greensand surface of Little Haldon 
 supporting in places blocks of quart z- 
 iferous porphyry of more than a ton 
 in weight. The long and lofty ridge 
 divides the valleys of the Teign and 
 the Exe ; and tributaries descend 
 from it to both rivers. In every 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 191 
 
 Route 11 . — Chudleigh. 
 
 direction Haldon is studded with 
 barrows, and the views on all sides 
 are superb. The road, leaving Shil- 
 ling ford Ch. (Perp. with a W. tower 
 built by Sir Wm. Huddesfeld, whose 
 brass, 1500, with that of his wife 
 Katherine dau. of Sir Philip Court- 
 enay, in heraldic dresses, is in the 
 chancel), and Dunchideock , late J. S. 
 Pitman, Esq., to the rt. (the ch. of 
 Dunchideock, in the Exon. Domes- 
 day, Donsedoc, much neglected, is 
 Perp., with a rich screen and a Dec. 
 east window, preserved from an 
 older building ; notice the mon. of 
 Gen. Lawrence (d. 1775), the friend 
 of Clive, “ as Mercy mild, yet ter- 
 rible as War,” runs the inscription, 
 which was written by Hannah More), 
 passes, 2 m. off, Haldon House , Sir 
 L. Palk, Bart., M.P. (who has a 
 collection of Oriental china). The 
 Belvidere , a tower which crowns Pen 
 Hill, west of the house, is a land- 
 mark for all this part of Devon. It 
 commands a vast extent of country, 
 looking to the sea in one direction, 
 to N. Devon in another, and to 
 the long range of Dartmoor — with 
 the peaks of Heytor, and the moun- 
 tainous ridge of Cawsand conspicu- 
 ous — in a third. Parts of the val- 
 lum and fosse of a large entrench- 
 ment may be traced on Pen Hill. 
 The road partly follows the line of 
 the Roman way (the Foss and Iken- 
 hilde united) which ran from Exeter 
 across Haldon to the great camp 
 at Ugbrooke, and thence towards 
 Totnes. At Kenford (3f m. from 
 Exeter), the line of this road was 
 formerly very conspicuous. The 
 church of Kenn , J m. 1., chiefly Perp., 
 has been restored. Near the village, 
 and seen rt. of the road, is Trayhill 
 ( — Ley, Esq.). The road skirts the 
 Exeter racecourse, and then descends 
 (still commanding very fine views) 
 towards 
 
 10 Chudleigh (Inn: Clifford Arms, 
 indifferent), a small town, mostly 
 built since 1807, when 166 houses 
 
 were destroyed by fire. The manor 
 belonged from a very early period 
 to the Bishops of Exeter, and was 
 bound to provide 24 woodcocks, or 
 instead, 12d. for the Christmas ban- 
 quet of the bishop. The Church is 
 interesting, in spite of two restora- 
 tions (1843 and 1870) which it has 
 undergone. A ch. was ded. here in 
 1259, and the existing tower is of 
 this date (tower arch, W. doorway, 
 and battlements are modern), as is 
 the font. The main part of the ch. 
 dates from early in the 14th centy. 
 The S. aisle was built in the 16th. 
 The screen is apparently work of 
 the same time. In the lower panels 
 are figures of Prophets and Apostles 
 alternately, the prophets distin- 
 guished by a sort of furred cap or 
 high turban. The names are in- 
 scribed in each panel. (The same 
 arrangement occurs in the neigh- 
 bouring ch. of Bovey Tracey. In the 
 stained glass at Chartres Prophets 
 are represented carrying Apostles 
 on their backs.) In the chancel is 
 the mont. of Sir Piers Courtenay, 
 of Ugbrooke, with kneeling figures of 
 himself and his wife. The church 
 contains some modern stained win- 
 dows. Chudleigh was formerly 
 famous for its woollen manufacture, 
 which has long passed away. The 
 Prince of Orange, in 1688, slept here 
 on his way from Ford to Exeter, 
 and harangued the people from a 
 window. Chudleigh is now noted 
 for cider, and for the far-famed 
 Chudleigh Bock , an eminence of blue 
 limestone, extensively quarried un- 
 der the name of Chudleigh marble. 
 The objects of curiosity in the 
 vicinity of the town are Chudleigh 
 Bock , Ugbrooke Bark (the seat of 
 Lord Clifford), and some trifling 
 remains of the Bishop's Palace , — in 
 the neighbourhood, the valley of the 
 Teign, Bovey Tracey , the Heytor Bocks , 
 and. the Bottor Bock at Ilennock 
 (about 3 m. distant). (For the 3 
 last places see Rte. 8.) Skat Tor 
 and the White Stone are also of 
 
192 
 
 Route 11 . — Exeter to Newton Abbot . 
 
 Sect. 
 
 interest, and rise high above the 
 valley of the Teign, the one between 
 Bridford and Christow, the other 1 m. 
 N. of Christow. The country around 
 Chudleigh is intersected by a great 
 number of steep and solitary lanes, 
 which form so perfect a labyrinth 
 that the traveller involved among 
 them towards nightfall will find no 
 little difficulty in reaching his inn. 
 The views, however, are very fine ; 
 and from the high ground there is a 
 wide prospect towards Hey tor, Rip- 
 pon Tor, and the crests of Dartmoor 
 — of which the outlines here are ex- 
 ceedingly grand. At the base of 
 the town runs the river Teign, now 
 carefully preserved and well stored 
 with food for the fisher. On the 
 Ashburton road a lane on the 1. (by 
 the blacksmith's shop), \ m. from the 
 ch., leads direct to the 
 
 Bishop's Palace , or rather its site, 
 which is occupied by an orchard. 
 An old crumbling boundary-wall, 
 and an insignificant fragment, now 
 serving as a cider-room, are the only 
 remains. The palace here was for- 
 tified under a licence to the Bp. of 
 Exeter of the 3rd Richard II. Bp. 
 Lacy died here in 1455. Imme- 
 diately beyond them is Bishop's Kiln , 
 and the 
 
 Chudleigh Bock, ris’ng on the skirts 
 of Ugbrooke, and presenting naked 
 surfaces of stone, which are seen here 
 and there in the gaps of a wild and 
 irregular wood, and at the summit 
 form platforms, commanding the 
 most delightful views. Within this 
 marble barrier is a glen, where trees 
 grow tangled ; and a brawling stream, 
 concealed from sunshine by the 
 foliage, runs murmuring by its moss- 
 grown stones, and, at one point, leaps 
 in a cascade, which is sketched every 
 year by a legion of artists. The rock, 
 which from below looks like the keep 
 of a castle, is bound, as it were, with 
 creepers, and has open spots (com- 
 mandingwide views) on the summit, 
 
 on which wild fennel grows luxi 
 riantly; midway on the cliff is thl 
 mouth of a cavern which the countrl 
 people describe as haunted by thi 
 Pixies. (The Pixies’ Parlour, cel# 
 bra ted by Coleridge, is near Ottery 
 The whole glen is very beautifu 
 and deserves full exploration. Th 
 limestone rock gives it a marke l 
 difference to the usual brook scener j 
 of Devonshire. 
 
 The cavern itself is of some size [ 
 and is entered by a passage 135 ft j 
 in length. The stalagmite floor wail 
 broken up in 1825, and bones o 
 various animals were discovered] 
 Dr. Buckland found here “wha 
 appeared to him to be a British! 
 kitchen — charcoal, pottery, flin 
 knives, &c.” The cavern, however ] 
 does not seem to have been examined! 
 with sufficient care, and the results ! 
 are hardly satisfactory. 
 
 In Russia, on the shore of the 
 Baltic, is a town of Chudleigh, which,; 
 in situation, much resembles itsa 
 namesake in Devon. Erman, in his] 
 ‘Travels in Siberia,’ when describ- 
 ing the Russian Chudleigh, remarks, 
 “ The limestone rock has here the ap- 
 pearance of a great promontory ; for! 
 on the east it is bounded by a deep • 
 ravine, cut by a rapid stream, which 
 falls into the bay.” (This town is 
 said to have been named, by whom 
 does not appear, in honour of the 
 famous Miss Chudleigh of Ashton 
 (see post), afterwards Duchess of 
 Kingston.) 
 
 Ugbrooke Park (Lord Clifford of 
 Chudleigh) is bounded by Chudleigh 
 Rock, and is a large and beautiful 
 demesne, about 6 m. in circumference, 
 and containing 600 acres within the 
 wall. (From Black Bock, which may 
 be visited on the way to Ugbrooke, 
 on the W. side of the Chudleigh Glen, 
 is a very striking view into the wooded 
 valley, with the mass of Chudleigh 
 Rock rising opposite. This view is 
 perhaps finer than that from the other 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 193 
 
 Route 11 .— Ugbrooke Park. v 
 
 side). On the highest point within the 
 park are the bold mounds of Castle 
 Dike, a single agger and fosse enclo- 
 sing an irregular oval area covering 
 about acres. There is an outwork 
 at some distance S.W. made by a 
 vallum and fosse about 400 yards 
 long, perhaps intended to defend the 
 access to a spring which rises S. of 
 the camp. The work may have been 
 originally British, but was probably 
 strengthened by the Romans. The 
 camp overlooks a great extent of 
 country toward the N. and W. The 
 Roman road from Exeter into Corn- 
 wall (the Icenhilde Way) passed a 
 little E. of the camp ; and on this 
 side is one of the principal entrances. 
 Ugbrooke Park (which until the 
 reign of Ed. VI. was attached to the 
 bishop’s palace) is perhaps the finest 
 in Devonshire. It is very rich in 
 noble old trees — beeches, oaks, and 
 firs ; and the ground, with its deep, 
 fern-lined hollows, is picturesquely 
 broken. Behind the house stretch 
 extensive woods. The park lies in a 
 valley, and through it flows a stream 
 (the 44 Ug brook”), which has been 
 widened so as to form 3 small lakes 
 —•worth a visit. There is a fine 
 avenue toward the Newton road ; and 
 in the same direction is a grove of 
 beech-trees, known as 44 Dryden’s 
 Walk.” Dry den, who was an inti- 
 mate friend of the Lord Treasurer 
 Clifford, often visited Ugbrooke, and 
 there is a tradition that he completed 
 his translation of 4 Virgil ’ at this 
 place. His version of the 4 Eclogues 
 and Georgies’ is dedicated to Hugh, 
 Lord Clifford, son and successor of 
 the Treasurer. A house was built 
 here by the Lord Treasurer, and 
 gave way about 1760 for the present 
 mansion. The architect was Adam ; 
 but the. house has little character. 
 It contains some good pictures. The 
 Dining-room is hung with portraits, 
 nearly all of which are by Sir Peter 
 Lely . Among them are Sir Thomas 
 Clifford (the C. of the famous 
 44 Cabal, ’ afterwards the Lord Trea- 
 \Dev. Sf Corn.~\ 
 
 surer, and (1672) the first Baron 
 Clifford of Chudleigh) as comptroller 
 of Charles II. ’s household. (He was 
 born at Ugbrooke, 1630; d. 1673 ; 
 and was the descendant of Anthony 
 Clifford who, temp. Ed. VI., married 
 the daughter and heiress of Sir Piers 
 Courtenay, and thus brought Ug- 
 brooke to the family. The trea- 
 surer was the first Roman Catholic of 
 this branch of the Cliffords.) Charles 
 II., James II., Queen Catherine of 
 Braganza (with the emblems of St. 
 Catherine), Anne Hyde, Duchess of 
 York, Anne Scott, Duchess of Mon- 
 mouth (the 44 Duchess ” of Sir W. 
 Scott’s 4 Lay,’ who 
 
 “ In pride of power, in beauty’s bloom, 
 
 Had wept o’er Monmouth’s bloody tomb ”), 
 
 and James, Duke of Monmouth. In 
 the Drawing-room , remark especially 
 a very fine portrait by C . Jansens , of 
 Thomas Clifford of Ugbrooke, grand- 
 father of the treasurer. He was a 
 prebendary of Exeter Cathedral, 
 and before taking holy orders had 
 served in the Low Countries, ,and 
 accompanied the E. of Essex in his 
 Cadiz expedition. — The Woman 
 taken in Adultery, ascribed to 
 Titian; a Holy Family, Gentileschi 
 (born at Pisa, 1563; d. in London, 
 where he had been invited by 
 Chas. I., 1647. This picture was 
 painted for the king). — Here are 
 also — a curious Dutch picture, re- 
 presenting the performance of a 
 44 Passion Play ; ” the scene is 
 Christ presented to the multitude ; — 
 and a portrait of the Lord Treasurer 
 (Lely), which has been engraved in 
 Lodge. In the state bedroom is an 
 embroidered bed, finished from the 
 designs and under the direction of 
 Mary, Duchess of Norfolk (married, 
 1727). The Chapel attached to the 
 house was built by the Lord Trea- 
 surer, but has been much altered 
 and enlarged. It was consec. in 
 1671 by Bp. Sparrow; the Trea- 
 surer not having become a R. C. 
 
 I until 1673. He is buried here, and 
 
 K 
 
194 
 
 Route 11 . — Exeter to Newton Abbot. 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 there is a monument for him in the 
 chapel. 
 
 Waddon and Ker swell rocks, in the 
 limestone, about 1 m. N. of Chud^ 
 leigh, are picturesque and worth 
 exploration. There are remains of 
 an Elizabethan house at Hans Barton , 
 once belonging to the Hunts ; and 
 at Upcott was born (1742) Major 
 Rennell, the geographer. 
 
 A steep and well-wooded road, 
 passing at the back of Ugbrooke, 
 leads to Ideford (2J m.), where the 
 ch., of no very great interest, is 
 chiefly Perp. lj m., in one of the 
 deep combes under Little Haldon, 
 is Luton Chapel , built about 1853, 
 striking from the beauty of its situa- 
 tion. It is covered with ivy and 
 creepers. 
 
 Whiteway House , N. of Chudleigh, 
 is the seat of Mrs. Parker, and New 
 Canonteign House of Viscount Ex- 
 mouth. The former contains one of 
 the earliest of Reynolds's portraits, 
 viz. that of Captain Ourry, M.P. for 
 Plympton in 1780, painted for the 
 corporation of that town. The latter 
 is in the valley of the Teign, about 
 4 m. towards Dunsford Bridge amid 
 beautiful scenery, a stream tum- 
 bling in a cascade near the house : 
 from a branch of this the Torquay 
 Waterworks are supplied (the works 
 and the iron pipes by which the 
 water is conveyed, 18 m., cost 
 50,0007.). The old mansion of Ca- 
 nouteign, stormed by Fairfax in 
 1645, is now tenanted by a farmer. 
 The Chudleighs, of which family 
 was Walpole’s “iElia Lelia Chud- 
 leigh,” the famous Duchess of Kings- 
 ton, were long seated at Place Barton 
 in the adjoining parish of Ashton , a 
 fine house of the 15th centy. 
 
 Ashcombe Church , 2j m. S. of Chud- 
 leigh, is Perp., and has been restored 
 (see Rte. 7) ; so has Trusham , 2 m. 
 N., which is chiefly Perp., but with 
 portions of an earlier ch., built 1259. 
 The granite piers rest on high rude 
 bases. Remark the curious monu- 
 
 ment, with portraits of John Stooke 
 and wife, 1697; and a 16th-centy. || 
 mont. for members of the Staplehurst 
 family, represented in a painting on > 
 panel of the back. The views from 
 Trusham Church and from the 
 vicarage are unusually broken and 
 romantic, even for this part of 
 Devonshire, of which, however, 
 they are very churacteristic. [The ( 
 archaeologist should visit the 4 
 churches of Ashton, Christow, Dod- 
 discombleigh, and Bridford ; all in 
 the valley of the Teign, between I 
 Chudleigh and Dunsford. (The Teign j 
 Valley line of rly., should it ever be 
 completed, will open this country as 
 far as Doddiscombleigh). To Ashton, 
 about 5 m., he may proceed along the 
 banks of the river, visiting Canon- 
 teign in his way. The ch., dedicated 
 to St. Nectan, is Perp., with a good 
 W. tower. The chief points of interest 
 here are some good carved bench- 
 ends ; some paintings in panels at 
 the base of the screen and par- 
 close (the screen itself has been cut 
 away) ; and some remains of stained 
 glass in the windows. Here, too, is 
 Place Barton, already mentioned. It 
 was taken by Fairfax in 1645, and 
 made a garrison for the Parliament. 
 
 Christow Church (dedicated to St. 
 Christina), 1 J m. on the other side 
 of the Teign, is mainly Perp. (circ. 
 1538?), but has a Norm, door and 
 font. There are 2 figures in stained 
 glass remaining. The ch. was given 
 to Eton by Henry VI., and after- 
 wards passed to Tavistock Abbey. 
 
 It had belonged to the great Norman 
 abbey of Bee, and was confiscated as 
 “alien.” It was restored in 1863, 
 and the tower was rebuilt in 1630. 
 At Christow there is a very pic- 
 turesque water-mill. Between Chris- 
 tow and Bridford is Shat Tor t with a 
 curious step-like ascent. 
 
 Bridford Church (dedicated to St. 
 Thomas of Canterbury), 2 m. far- 
 ther, has a Dec. chancel ; the rest is 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 12 . — Totnes to Ashburton . 
 
 195 
 
 Perp., with good screen, painted and 
 gilt, with date 1508. The oak seat- 
 ing, and some figures in glass of the 
 S. window of nave, should be no- 
 ticed. (There is a clean country 
 Inn — the Teign Inn — at Bridford.) 
 
 Doddiscombleigh , on the 1. bank of 
 the river, and about Ij m. from 
 Ashton ch., is the most interesting of 
 the 4, though in a sadly neglected 
 state. The chancel is early Dec. ; 
 the nave and N. aisle Perp. ; and in 
 the latter are 4 Perp. 3-light win- 
 dows containing some very fine glass. 
 That in the E. window is the best in 
 the county (except what is in the 
 cathedral). It displays the 7 Sacra- 
 ments of the Roman Church : in 
 the centre, the Reconciliation of 
 Penitents; rt. the Eucharist, Mar- 
 riage, and Confirmation ; 1. Baptism, 
 Ordination, and Extreme Unction. 
 In another window are figures of St. 
 Michael, St. Peter, St. Andrew, St. 
 James, St. Christopher, St. George, 
 with various emblems. The tourist 
 may proceed 3 m. N.W. to 
 
 Dunsford (Rte. 8), where the ch. 
 is interesting, and where there is a 
 tolerably good roadside inn.] 
 
 On the 1. bank of the Teign, 1 J m. 
 off the road, before reaching Newton 
 is Kincjsteignton, where is a large and 
 good Perp. ch. In the S. aisle are 
 many chained books — Fox’s ‘ Mar- 
 tyrs ’ among them. 
 
 G m. Newton (see Rte. 7). 
 
 ROUTE 12. 
 
 TOTNES TO BUCKEASTLEIGH AND ASH- 
 BURTON. (RAILWAY.) BTJCKL AND, 
 HOLNE, HOLNE CHASE. 
 
 A rly. 9| m. in length, in connec- 
 tion with the South Line, connect- 
 ing Totnes with Buckfastleigh and 
 Ashburton, was opened in 1872. (It 
 is remarkable for being a series of 
 curves. There are only four pieces 
 of straight line, the length of which 
 does not exceed 2 m.) The rly. 
 passes through some beautiful 
 scenery, and affords an easy access 
 to the grand “ wilds ” of the Upper 
 Dart. 
 
 Passing the hills and woods of 
 Dartington (A. Champernowne, Esq. 
 See Rte. 7. Exc. from Totnes), ' the 
 first station is reached at 
 
 3 m. Staverton , a parish famous 
 for its cider, and beautiful in spring 
 with its numerous orchards. The 
 village, with its ch., is seen rt. 
 (The ch., chiefly Perp., with debased 
 windows, is of no great interest. 
 The tower is Dec., circ. 1330.) 
 Hence the line follows the left bank 
 of the Dart through some very pleas- 
 ing country, which is, however, seen 
 to far more advantage from the old 
 turnpike road. ( See the chief points 
 of view noticed in Rte. 7. Exc. from 
 Totnes.) In many places, but espe- 
 cially at Stretchaford, the ancient 
 river-bed, containing boulders and 
 pebbles of granite and other rocks, 
 has been exposed at a height of 
 many feet above the present channel 
 of the Dart. (See Holne Bridge , 
 post.) The river is here a full flow- 
 ing stream, broken here and there 
 by ledges of rock and overhung 
 (where the rly. has not destroyed 
 k 2 
 
196 
 
 Route 12 . — Totnes to Ashburton . 
 
 them — its sloping pitched walls do 
 not improve the bank) by copses of 
 oak and hazel. On the hill 1. is 
 seen Bigadon , long the residence of 
 Richard J. King, Esq., by whose 
 family the present house was built 
 and the plantations made. It is 
 now the property of J. Fleming, 
 Esq. The ivy-clad and picturesque 
 Austin's Bridge next appears. Near 
 some large paper mills the Dart is 
 crossed by an iron bridge 300 ft. in 
 length, and the station is reached at 
 
 6f m. Buckfastleigh. The cli. is 
 seen on the hill rt. The station is 
 about J m. from the village. 
 
 Buckfastleigh ( Inn : King’s Arms ; 
 tolerable) is a large village (pop. 
 2500) encompassed with the short 
 steep hills which characterise this 
 part of the country. It has some 
 blanket and serge mills, employing 
 a considerable number of hands, and 
 is thus one of the few places in 
 which this branch of manufacture 
 still lingers in the west, where it 
 was once the staple. In the neigh- 
 bourhood are iron and copper mines, 
 but of no vbry great account. The 
 village itself is without interest, 
 and is certainly not picturesque. 
 The neighbourhood abounds in fine 
 scenery ; and the upper valley of 
 the Dart, where are to be found per- 
 haps the grandest scenes in Devon- 
 shire, is easily accessible from this 
 place. Here, on the N. side of the 
 village, and overhanging the Dart, 
 the hill is formed of limestone, of 
 earlier date than the carbonaceous 
 rocks which surround it. The lime- 
 stone is a black marble, of the same 
 class and period as the variously 
 tinted marbles which appear at 
 Dartlington, Ipplepen, Ogwell, Tor- 
 quay, and elsewhere in South 
 Devon. The Buckfastleigh marble 
 is hardly so rich as the others in 
 coralline and other remains. It is 
 quarried, but now chiefly for the 
 supply of kilns. On the side toward 
 the village there are numerous deep 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 caverns and fissures, which have not 
 as yet been properly examined. At 
 any rate they have not been shown 1 
 to be ossiferous. The Church of 
 Buckfastleigh stands on the summit 
 of this limestone hill, looking on one 
 side into the valley of the Dart, | 
 where are the remains of Buckfast 
 Abbey , and on the other into the j 
 long valley stretching westward j 
 from the river, in which lies the j 
 village. The ch. hill is climbed by 
 140 steps ; and the tradition coin- | 
 mon to churches on high ground 
 belongs to this of Buckfastleigh. It 
 is said that the Devil obstructed the ' 
 builders by removing the stones ; 1 
 and a large block, bearing the mark 
 of the “ enemy’s ” finger and thumb, 
 is pointed out on a farm about 1 m. •; 
 distant. The tower and chancel are ! 
 E. Eng., the nave Perp. The tower 
 is capped by a spire — an unusual 
 feature in Devonshire churches, but 
 perhaps adopted here as a guide and j 
 landmark, rising above what must ; 
 have been anciently a wild and 
 densely-wooded country. Remark ; 
 the rude blocks of granite which 
 form the steps of the tower. The i 
 ch. was restored circ. 1845, and 
 contains some modern stained glass , 
 by Beer of Exeter. In the ch.-yard j 
 is the ivied fragment of an old build- j 
 ing, “ which could never have been j 
 very large, but whether baptistery 
 or chantry must be left uncertain. \ 
 Apparently it is of E. Eng. date. 
 
 It stands due E. of the ch., with ! 
 which, however, it was never united. , 
 There are remains of a piscina at 
 the S.E. angle.” — R. J. K. The ch. 
 belonged to the Abbey of Buckfast , 
 (which seems to have been the 
 earlier settlement here. Leigh = 
 leak, A.-S., a lea, is from the root 
 liegan — to lie, and in all probability ; 
 denoted at first meadows lying fal- 
 low after a crop. The “ leigh ” of ] 
 Buckfast was the long strip of j 
 meadow running up the valley), one i 
 of the first monastic foundations in | 
 Devonshire, having been established 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 197 
 
 Route 12 . — Buckfastleigh . 
 
 for Benedictine monks some time 
 before the Conquest, by a certain 
 “Duke Alfred.” So says Leland, 
 repeating either the tradition or the 
 written record of the house ; but 
 whom we are to recognise in the 
 mysterious Duke Alfred is quite 
 uncertain. (He may have been an 
 ealdorman of the “ Defenas,” but 
 such a name is not recorded.) The 
 house seems to have been plundered 
 by the Northmen, for Canute gave 
 to it sundry manors ; and its posses- 
 sions are duly recorded in Domes- 
 day. The abbey was then flourish- 
 ing, but it must either have been 
 desolated or the site had been aban- 
 doned when, in 1137 the monastery 
 was refounded for Cistercians by 
 Ethelwerd de Pomeroy, whose name 
 seems to indicate that one of the 
 Norman lords of Berry had found 
 an English wife. He brought a 
 colony of Cistercians from Waverley 
 in Surrey. (Waverley was then 
 attached to the order of Savigny, 
 but this whole order soon became 
 merged in the greater order of 
 Citeaux.) This was the richest 
 Cistercian house in the west. Ed- 
 ward I. visited it in 1297 ; and the 
 abbot supplied 100 marks towards 
 the expenses of the Agincourt ex- 
 pedition. It had one learned abbot, 
 William Slade, famous (circ. 1414) 
 at Oxford for his lectures on Ari- 
 stotle. He “ adorned the abbey with 
 fair buildings ” after becoming its 
 head. The last abbot, Gabriel 
 Donne, received his promotion as a 
 reward for the share he had in the 
 capture of Tyndale, the reformer, at 
 Antwerp. He was a monk of Strat- 
 ford-le-Bow. At the Dissolution the 
 site was granted to Sir Thomas Den- 
 nys of Holcombe Burnell (Rte. 8), 
 a mighty devourer of religious 
 houses and lands in Devon. The 
 ruins of the abbey which, when 
 Ptisdon wrote (temp. Jas. I.) “might 
 move the beholder to both wonder 
 and pity,” are now inconsiderable. 
 The ch., which was of great size, 
 
 and extended toward the river, was 
 pulled entirely down (it was before 
 in complete ruin) about 1806, and 
 the materials were used in build- 
 ing a large factory close at hand. 
 There now remains little more than 
 an ivied tower (part of the abbot’s 
 lodgings; it is of Perp. date) close 
 to the present mansion of Buck- 
 fast Abbey , and the “ spicarium ” or 
 barn, a building about 100 ft. long, 
 at the Grange. A part of the abbey 
 site is occupied by a large woollen 
 factor}^. The woollen trade at this 
 place is probably of great antiquity. 
 The Cistercians were all wooltraders ; 
 and a green path over the moors 
 towards Brent, known to this day as 
 the Abbot’s Way , is said to have been 
 a “ post-road ” for the conveyance 
 of the wool of the community. (A 
 market was granted to the abbot by 
 Edw. III. in 1352, and the wooden 
 market-house, to all appearance of 
 that date, remained in the village of 
 Buckfastleigh until about 1846. It 
 was then removed. There was a simi- 
 lar market-house at Ashburton.)' The 
 modern Buckfast Abbey is Straw- 
 berry Hill Gothic, but stands on 
 ancient vaulted foundations of E. 
 Eng. date. The visitor should pro- 
 ceed for some distance up the rt. 
 bank of the river. A path here is 
 known as the “ Monks’ Walk.” A 
 lane beyond Buckfast Abbey leads 
 by Hembury Gate to the top of the 
 hill on which is Hembury Fort 
 (about 2 m. N.W. from the village). 
 This is an irregular oblong, the ex- 
 ternal vallum of which encloses 
 about seven acres. The fosse is 40 ft. 
 wide and 20 ft. deep. At the highest 
 part is an interior agger and fosse, 
 surrounding an earthen mound (over- 
 grown by trees) about 44 ft. long by 
 17 ft. broad. Sling stones and a 
 bronze celt have been found here. 
 The view from this camp is very 
 beautiful. The hill is covered with 
 thick oaken coppice, and below winds 
 the stream of the Dart. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Buck- 
 
198 
 
 Route 12. — Totnes to Ashburton . 
 
 Sect. I* 
 
 fastleigh is Bigadon (J. Fleming, 
 Esq.), commanding fine views over 
 the valley of the Dart toward Totnes. 
 The river in this direction will re- 
 ward the attention of the sketcher ; 
 hut the finest scenery lies above 
 Buckfast, and the chief excursions 
 to be made from Buckfastleigh are 
 — to the village of Holne and to 
 Benjie Tor ; to New Bridge, and 
 thence by Longator to Lewesdon 
 and Dartmeet ; to the vale of Dean 
 Burn and to Scorraton ; and by 
 Wallaford Down over the moors to 
 Brent. Holne Chase and Buckland 
 may also be visited from Buckfast- 
 leigh as easily as from Ashburton ; 
 but they will be described as excur- 
 sions from the latter place. 
 
 (a) Narrow lanes, with pleasing 
 views 1. over wooded valleys with 
 the moors beyond, will lead the 
 tourist to (2 m.) the village of Holne, 
 which stands on high ground, close 
 under Dartmoor. The little Dec. 
 ch. of Holne contains a carved screen, 
 with painted figures of saints, which 
 are curious and worth examina- 
 tion, and were probably the work 
 of the monks of Buckfast, to whom 
 the church belonged. Holne is so 
 named, either from the holly-trees 
 {hotline, holne ) which abound in the 
 chace, and are of very great size, or, 
 more probably, from the Saxon word 
 “ liolf signifying “ deep,” hollow.” 
 The Dart here winds through a 
 rocky and picturesque glen above 
 Holne Chase. You look into this 
 glen from the lawn of the Vicarage 
 where (but the house has since been 
 altered) was born the author of 
 ‘ Westward Ho.’ The father of 
 Canon Kingsley was then a tem- 
 porary occupant of the vicarage. 
 Benjie Tor (the etymology is quite 
 uncertain) lies off the moor road rt. 
 about 2 m. beyond Holne village 
 (where a guide may be procured if 
 desired). It is possible to drive 
 close to the tor. The visitor will 
 find himself unexpectedly on the 
 
 summit of a lofty pile of rocks, 
 which descend in rugged steps to 
 the river. Beyond rise wild “ braes ” 
 with equal steepness — their sides 
 strewn with granite, and mantled 
 with furze and heather; the grey 
 cone of Sharpitor lifts itself above all. 
 To the rt. the eye ranges freely over 
 Dartmoor (the roofs of the prisons 
 are seen shining in the sun on a 
 bright day), and to the 1. across a 
 vast extent of cultivated land to 
 a blue fringe of sea, the Isle of Port- 
 land being visible in clear weather 
 Far below, in the river, are two still 
 and dark “ wells ” known as Hell 
 Pool and Bell Pool. The scene is 
 strikingly Highland. 
 
 Regaining the road, which was 
 left to reach Benjie Tor, the tourist 
 may proceed, with the dark slopes of 
 Holne Lee on his 1., by Cumston 
 Tor (a fine mass of rock, rt. — on it 
 are rock basins, and there are scat- 
 tered hut circles in the neighbour- 
 hood) and Pachsaddle Bridge , a 
 curious old structure crossing a 
 feeder of the Dart, where the scenery 
 is striking, to Dartmeet , returning to 
 Buckfastleigh by the route described 
 in the next excursion (reversing the 
 order). — The whole day should be 
 allowed for this excursion, since the 
 roads are steep and rocky, and halts 
 will be made at Benjie Tor, Dart- 
 meet, and perhaps at New Bridge. 
 
 ( b ) The road to New Bridge from 
 Buckfastleigh climbs Hembury Hill, 
 and proceeds to a point called Gal- 
 lantry Bower , marked by a clump of 
 trees on the edge of a common. 
 Here a very grand view opens in 
 front. The Dart is seen winding 
 under the woods of Buckland, with 
 Buckland beacon beyond ; and more 
 in the foreground is the rocky slope 
 of Longator. In descending toward 
 New Bridge one of the entrances to 
 Holne Chase is passed rt. At New 
 Bridge the Dart is crossed. The 
 river, it will bo seen, winds here in 
 a remarkable manner, — “ occurrens- 
 
190 
 
 Devonshire. Route 12. — New Bridge — Dartmeet * 
 
 quo sibi venturas aspicit rindas.” 
 After receiving tlie waters of the 
 Webburn it bends back on its course, 
 so that the Dart at New Bridge runs 
 almost parallel with itself in Holne 
 Chase. The scene here is very 
 beautiful, but is perhaps calculated 
 to give most pleasure to those who 
 come suddenly upon it on descending 
 from the moor, as the confined valley 
 and green woods are a most agree- 
 able change from the long-continued 
 view of naked hills ; and the craggy 
 and richly coloured schistose rocks 
 a striking contrast to the grey mas- 
 sive tors of granite. 
 
 [The admirer of wild scenery will 
 do well to find his way along the 
 hanks of the Dart from New Bridge 
 to Dartmeet. This will be a labo- 
 rious pilgrimage, but one that will 
 introduce him to, perhaps, the very 
 finest points on the river. It need 
 hardly be said that it can only be 
 accomplished on foot. The tourist 
 should keep on the 1. bank (opposite 
 Holne Cot, which is seen on the hill- 
 side), and thus scrambling through 
 the rocky glen under Holne, he will 
 find himself at the foot of Benjie Tor 
 (but with the river between him and 
 it). Thence, keeping near the gra- 
 nite-strewn bed of the river, he will 
 advance upon Dartmeet. The river, 
 throughout the whole distance, flows 
 in a wild tumultuous stream, and its 
 “cry” (to use the true Dartmoor 
 term), in the stillness of night, may 
 be heard far from its banks. It is 
 subject to frequent and sudden inun- 
 dation. “ Dart came down last 
 night” is an expression often in the 
 mouths of the moor-men, and it is 
 said that a year never passes with- 
 out one person at the least being 
 drowned in the river. Hence the 
 local rhyme : — 
 
 “ River of Dart, 0, river of Dart, 
 
 Every year thou claimest a heart !”] 
 
 From New Bridge the road climbs 
 toward the moor with a long ridge 
 
 of rocks rt. This is Longator , or the 
 Raven’s Rock. Then, passing be- 
 tween rough stone walls, overhung 
 with moss and stone-crop, and by 
 old-fashioned wide-porched farms, 
 shaded with sycamores, it proceeds 
 at the back of Spitchwick ( — Black- 
 hall, Esq.) — spic , A.-S. = bacon, is 
 used in composition to denote swine 
 pastures) — a very picturesque estate, 
 planted and laid out by the first 
 Lord Ashburton — the finest trees 
 have been cut down — to Lewesdon , 
 a wild spot, where a u settlement,” 
 including church, vicarage, and 
 school-house, was formed lay Mrs. 
 Larpent about 1856, greatly to the 
 advantage of this moorland district. 
 The views here, over the Buckland 
 woods, toward Buckfastleigh, and in 
 the direction of Widdecombe, arc 
 grand and wide-stretching. [A road 
 winding to the rt. will lead the tour- 
 ist to Widdecombe by Ponsworthy , 
 a hamlet on the Webburn rivulet, 
 with hanging woods and broken 
 banks rising above the stream. 
 There is much pleasing scenery be- 
 yond, and this road to Widdecombe 
 (for that place see post , Exc. from 
 Ashburton) deserves to be followed.^ 
 
 From Lewesdon the moor itself is 
 soon gained. 1. of the road rises 
 Sharpitor , well named, and conspi- 
 cuous. It overhangs the Dart nearly 
 opposite Benjie Tor. Then follows 
 Yar Tor ; where (near the top of the 
 hill, and rt. of the road), are many 
 hut circles and lines of stone. Among 
 the remains is a rectangular enclosure , 
 42 ft. by 11 ft. ; nearer the river, a 
 hut circle , 38 ft. in diam., with walls 
 6 ft. thick, and door-jambs 6 ft. 
 high ; and a very perfect kistvaen 
 surrounded by upright stones. The 
 village was, evidently, of considerable 
 size, and a road appears to have 
 led from it across the river by a 
 bridge, formed of huge blocks of 
 granite, which was standing some 
 years ago, but which, like many 
 other relics of the British period, 
 
200 
 
 Eoute 12 . — Totnes to Ashburton . 
 
 Sect. 1* 
 
 has been wickedly and unnecessarily 
 destroyed. 
 
 At Dartmeet the river is crossed 
 by a new modern-looking bridge. 
 Here is the junction of the E. and 
 W. Dart rivers, the first descending 
 from the high bogs near Cranmere 
 Pool, the second from sources near 
 Great Mistor. The scene at Dart- 
 meet is wild and pleasing, but it has 
 suffered from the felling of a small 
 w*ood of oaks, which here lined the 
 river-bauk. They belonged to the 
 adjacent farm of JBrimpts ; as do the 
 plantations which still remain. 
 
 (From Dartmeet you may return 
 to Buckfastleigh by Cumston Tor 
 and Holne— see the preceding ex- 
 cursion.) 
 
 (c) 2 m. W. of Buckfastleigh, rt., 
 is Dean Combe, or the Vale of Dean 
 Burn (the streamlet which runs 
 through it is the “burn” — so the 
 “Web burn'' another feeder of the 
 Dart^), of which Polwhele remarks : 
 “ it unites the terrible and graceful 
 in so striking a manner, that to enter 
 this recess hath the effect of enchant- 
 ment.” The upper part of one side 
 is strewn with stony fragments, and 
 is called the “ clatters, or “ clitters ” 
 (this word is used on Dartmoor to 
 denote the ruin of granite blocks 
 covering the hill-side below the “ tor.” 
 It is found in the south of Scotland, 
 and is adopted by Sir W. Scott — 
 
 *• And still beneath the cavern dread 
 Among the glidd/srs grey, 
 
 A shapeless stone with lichens spread 
 Marks where the wanderer lay.” ) 
 
 Half-way up the glen are some pic- 
 turesque waterfalls. One tumbles 
 into a deep hollow called t ho Hound's 
 Fool , of which the following story is 
 told: — “There once lived in the 
 hamlet of Dean Combe a weaver of 
 great fame and skill. After long 
 prosperity he died and was buried. 
 But the next day he appeared sitting 
 at the loom in his chamber, working 
 diligently as when he was alive. 
 His son applied to the parson, who 
 
 went accordingly to the foot of the 
 stairs, and heard the noise of the 
 weaver’s shuttle in the room above. 
 4 Knowles,’ he said, 4 come down ; 
 this is no place for thee.’ 4 1 will,’ 
 said the w T eaver, 4 as soon as I have 
 worked out my quill’ (the shuttle 
 full of wool). ‘ Nay,’ said the vicar, 
 4 thou hast been long enough at thy 
 work ; come down at once ! ’ So 
 when the spirit came down, the vicar 
 took a handful of earth from the 
 ch.-yard, and threw it in its face. 
 And in a moment it became a black 
 hound. ‘ Follow me,’ said the vicar; 
 and it followed him to the gate of 
 the w r ood. When they came there, 
 it seemed as if all the trees in the 
 wood were 4 coming together,’ so great 
 w r as the wind. Then the vicar took 
 a nutshell with a hole in it, and led 
 the hound to the pool below r the 
 waterfall. 4 Take this shell,’ he said ; 
 ‘and when thou shalt have dipped 
 out the pool with it, thou mayest 
 rest — not before.’ At midday or at 
 midnight the hound may still be seen 
 at its work.” —B. J. K. 
 
 A path through the wood, turning 
 up by the principal waterfall, 1., leads 
 to Scorrafon, a solitary farm on the 
 edge of the “scaur” or ravine. It 
 was held temp. Hen. III., by the 
 service of finding 3 arrows for the 
 king, whenever he should come to 
 hunt in the forest of Dartmoor. The 
 upper part of the ravine is very 
 picturesque. 
 
 The vale of Dean Burn is in the 
 parish of Dean Prior , given to the 
 Priory of Plympton by Sir W. Fitz- 
 stephen, temp. Hen II. This was 
 the living of Herrick the poet, who 
 wrote most of his 4 Ilesperides ’ here, 
 and was buried in the ch.-yard 1074. 
 (His interment is duly recorded in 
 the register.) Here also was buried 
 his servant “ True,” recorded in his 
 poems. Her burial is entered as that 
 of “ Prudence Balden, an olde maid ” ; 
 and the poet’s hope that the violet 
 might blossom on her grave is not 
 
Devonshire. Route 12. — Dean — Ashburton* 
 
 perhaps unfulfilled, though no tomb- 
 stone records her resting-place. 
 Herrick was expelled during the 
 Protectorate; but lived to be rein- 
 stated under the Act of Uniformity. 
 His poems contain many hits at his 
 parishioners, whose manners, he 
 says, “ were rockie as their ways ; ” 
 biit they are full of the wild flowers 
 — the daffodils and primroses — which 
 abound in the orchards and steep 
 hedge-rows of Dean; and he pro- 
 bably found his ‘ Julias ’ and ‘ An- 
 tlieas ’ in the “ fair mistresses ” of 
 Dean Court , a house built by Sir 
 Edward Giles, temp. Edw. VI. It 
 passed by marriage (which Herrick 
 commemorates) to the Yardes; and 
 is now the property of Lord Chur- 
 ston. A tablet recording the poets 
 burial here has been placed in the 
 ch, by — Herrick, Esq., of Beau- 
 manor in Herefordshire — the repre- 
 sentative of the family. Dean 
 Church is about 1J m. from the en- 
 trance to Dean Combe. Herrick 
 apostrophised the “burn” when ex- 
 pelled from his vicarage — 
 
 “ Dean burn farewell ; I never look to see 
 
 Dean, nor thy warty incivility.” 
 
 —but the age of admiration for such 
 wild scenery was yet to come. 
 
 (d) A steep road W. of Buckfast- 
 leigli leads to Wallaford Down , com- 
 manding a very fine and extensive 
 view. Hence the tourist may find 
 his way over the moors to the river 
 Avon, and so descend upon Brent 
 (see Rte. 7. Exc. from Brent). He 
 will cross the Dean burn at the ex- 
 treme head of the ravine, and thence 
 make for one of the many Walla 
 brooks, which here falls into the 
 Avon. From the hill of Puppers, a 
 high point 1., the view is even wider 
 and finer than that from Wallaford 
 Down. There can be little doubt 
 that “ W allaford ” and “ Wallabrook ” 
 retain the name “ Wealha” given to 
 the Britons by the English colonists 
 (see Rte. 7). “ Peter’s bound stone” 
 
 201 
 
 and “ Peter’s Cross,” which occur in 
 this part of the moor, mark the 
 boundaries of the manor of Brent, 
 long held by the Abbots of Buckfast, 
 and, after the Dissolution, bought 
 by Sir William Petre, whose name 
 is thus recorded. There is a large 
 rabbit-warren at Huntingdon , above 
 the junction of the Avon and Walla- 
 brook. 
 
 (e) The Dartmoor Prisons may be 
 visited from Buckfastleigh (distance 
 about 12 m., the road lies onward 
 from Dartmeet). They are described 
 in the following route. Holne Chase 
 and the Buekland Downs are also 
 within easy reach (see post , Excur- 
 sions from Ashburton). 
 
 Leaving the stat. at Buckfastleigh, 
 the Dart is recrossed by an iron 
 bridge, 140 ft. long. N. of this is 
 the old Dart bridge , on the high road 
 between Buckfastleigh and Ash- 
 burton. From it there is a pleasing 
 view up the river, with the house of 
 Blackroch rising from the edge of 
 the water. The rly. proceeds up the 
 broad valley of the Yeo, a tributary of 
 the Dart. There is a deep cutting 
 through limestone at Pridliamsleigh 
 (see post), and glimpses toward Dart- 
 moor are obtained 1. The train 
 speedily reaches 
 
 9 \ m. from Totnes, Ashburton Stat. 
 (This is at the end of St. Lawrence’s 
 Lane, see post). Ashburton ( Inns : 
 Golden Lion, best ; London Inn), one 
 of the old Stannary towns (pop. 3062), 
 situated in a valley on the skirts of 
 Dartmoor, which are here (the neigh- 
 bourhood of Buckfastleigh must 
 be included) characterised by a 
 grandeur and variety of scenery not 
 surpassed in the county. The town 
 itself is quiet and old-fashioned. It 
 contains a wool factory; and Ash- 
 burton is the centre of a mineral 
 district which is increasing in 
 importance. Iron and copper are 
 raised in the carboniferous district 
 k 2 
 
202 
 
 Route 12 . — Totnes to Ashburton . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 which here borders the granite of 
 Dartmoor. John Dunning solicitor- 
 general in 1767, and William Gif- 
 ford (1756), apprenticed in his early 
 years to a shoemaker, but afterwards 
 known as a translator of Juvenal 
 and editor of the ‘ Quarterly,’ were 
 natives of this town. In 1782 Dun- 
 ning was raised to the peerage as 
 Baron Ashburton, a title which be- 
 came extinct in 1823, but in 1835 
 was revived in the person of Alex- 
 ander Baring. 
 
 In 1646 Ashburton was taken 
 (without conflict) by Fairfax, who 
 lodged after the exploit at the Mer- 
 maid Inn. This is now a shop, but 
 of very venerable appearance. An- 
 other old house in West Street, con- 
 taining an ancient oratory (?), richly 
 decorated with carved oak, is sup- 
 posed to have been an occasional 
 residence of the Abbots of Buckfast, 
 though without the slighest founda- 
 tion. A very curious timber mar- 
 ket-house, resembling that formerly 
 at Buckfastleigh, and apparently of 
 the same date — circ. 1340— was 
 pulled down some years since. The 
 present market-house and town-hall 
 is modern (A. Norman, archit.). 
 
 The Church (St. Andrew) is a 
 line cruciform structure of Perp. 
 date circ. 1400, but has suffered 
 much from modern “ improvements.” 
 The screen and pulpit have been 
 removed, and the roof and many of 
 the windows rebuilt. (The glass in 
 the E. window was designed by 
 A. W. Pugin). The roof of the N. 
 aisle is ancient, and has carved oak 
 timbers with fine bosses — much de- 
 cayed. The S. aisle contains a 
 tablet with inscription, by Dr. John- 
 son, to the memory of the first Lord 
 Ashburton, d. 1783. The tower of 
 the ch. is 110 ft. high, with indif- 
 ferent parapet and pinnacles. The 
 manor of Ashburton belonged to the 
 see of Exeter until the reign of 
 James I., when it was alienated to 
 the crown. The Chapel of St. Law- 
 rence , a small Perp. building, serv- 
 
 ing as the Grammar School, was a 
 chantry chapel, the priest attached 
 to which was bound to keep a school. 
 In the Grammar School, Dunning 
 (Lord Ashburton) was educated, 
 and (perhaps) John Ford the drama- 
 tist, born at Bagtor in the par. of 
 Ilsington (see Kte. 8, Exc. from 
 Bovey Tracey). 
 
 Close to Ashburton (in the first 
 lane to the 1. on the Totnes road) 
 is a gate called Sounding Gate , as 
 the spot -at which an echo, remark- 
 ably clear and loud, may be drawn 
 from a quarry opposite. In making 
 a cutting for the rly. here, an iron 
 lode was intersected. From this 
 lane another branches off to the Penn 
 Slate Quarry (2 m.), an excavation 
 about 100 ft. deep. A good modern 
 ch. has been built near the quarry 
 by members of the Champernowne 
 family. In this neighbourhood also 
 (1^ m. from Ashburton, 1. of the Tot- 
 nes road) is a limestone cavern on 
 a farm called Pridhamsleigh , run- 
 ning an unknown distance under- 
 ground, and containing pools of 
 deep water. Pridhamsleigh was an 
 old residence of the Pridhams ; but 
 the house is now without interest. 
 From Whiteroch (to be reached 
 through a lane and some fields, rt., 
 on the road between Ashburton and 
 Buckfastleigh, there is a fine view 
 over the upper valley of the Dart. 
 
 The most interesting excursions 
 from Ashburton, however, lie farther 
 afield ; and of them the chief are to 
 Buckland (a seat of the Bastards) 
 and Holne Chase (Sir B. P. Wrey, 
 Bart.), grand wilds of rock and wood 
 on the banks of the Dart. There is 
 nothing in Devonshire finer; and 
 the scenery at least equals that of 
 the Wharfe at Bolton Priory and 
 among Barden Woods, with which it 
 may be properly compared, remem- 
 bering always that the Dart de- 
 scends through a granitic and slaty 
 district, and that the Wharfe at 
 Bolton is surrounded by, and flows 
 over, mountain limestone. The 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 12 . — BucHand Woods. 
 
 203 
 
 rocks give their special character to 
 each district. 
 
 (a) The round from and back to 
 Ashburton through the BucHand 
 Woods will be about 10 m. (The 
 drives are open for carriages only on 
 Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. 
 Carriages must enter by Holne 
 Bridge). Holne Bridge crosses the 
 Dart about 2 m. from Ashburton. 
 The schistose bed of the river is 
 here much broken, and the scene is 
 fine. Those who are curious in such 
 deposits may trace up the 1. bank a 
 bed of gravel, at an elevation of 
 about 80 ft. above the present course 
 of the river, affording evidence of 
 the stream having once flowed at a 
 higher level than it does at present. 
 (The rly. cuttings between Totnes 
 and Buckfastleigh have laid bare 
 this higher river-bed in many places, 
 see ante'). A road on the 1. bank of 
 the river (the Ashburton side) leads 
 through 2 fields to the entrance of 
 the Buckland Woods. (The Dart 
 separates Buckland from Holne 
 Chase, on the rt. bank.) It is un- 
 necessary to describe the beautiful 
 scenery through which the visitor 
 will pass. He will find sufficient 
 to interest and delight him through- 
 out the entire drive — the rocky, 
 sparkling river below him, 1., with 
 Holne Chase on the opposite side, 
 and wooded heights, from which 
 grey rocks and streams of “ clatter ” 
 (broken stone) emerge at intervals, 
 towering above him rt. A fine mass 
 called the Raven Rock first appears 
 rt., but is best seen from the Holne 
 Chase side. The grandest point in 
 this lower drive, and perhaps the 
 finest on the Dart, is the Lovers' 
 Leap (there is the usual tradition 
 that a pair of faithful but despairing 
 lovers flung themselves from it), 
 a rough mass of slate rising verti- 
 cally from the river, which here 
 winds round it. Mountainous heights 
 rise boldly on either side, and some- 
 what farther up, on the Holne bank, 
 
 is a broken cliff projecting from the 
 wood, hung with ivy and brier-rose, 
 and crested with mountain ash — 
 
 “ With boughs that quake at every breath 
 Grey birch and aspen weep beneath ; 
 
 Aloft, the ash and warrior oak 
 Cast anchor in the rifted rock ; 
 
 And higher yet, the pine tree hangs 
 His shattered trunk .‘ . .” 
 
 Many picturesque views occur be- 
 yond the Lovers’ Leap, especially 
 one up a steep fern-fringed hollow, 
 rt. The road then reaches a lodge 
 built of granite — very simple and 
 effective, and turns into what is 
 known as the higher drive. Before 
 entering this, however, you should 
 pass on toward a gate leading out of 
 the wood, close to the junction of 
 the Webburn with the Dart. The 
 scene here is very beautiful. A 
 short distance beyond is the entrance 
 to Spitchwick (ante, Exc. from Buck- 
 fastleigh. The tourist may, if he 
 pleases, return from this point to 
 Ashburton by New Bridge, already 
 described). The higher drive winds 
 up through the woods above the 
 valley of the Webburn — a stream 
 which descends from the moor in 
 two branches, one of them flowing 
 by Widdecombe. These unite above 
 Buckland. As the ground rises, 
 and the wild, wooded valley opens 
 more and more, the scene becomes 
 very grand and impressive. A gate 
 at the end opens into the hamlet of 
 Buckland-in-the-moor, with its little 
 Perp. ch. and picturesque, tree- 
 shaded cottages. Hence the return 
 is made to Ashburton by a road 
 passing under Buckland Beacon, 
 and by Hazel Tor or Auswell Bock, 
 rising from a wood of firs rt., and 
 commanding a fine view over the 
 river valley. Opposite is Druid 
 (J. S. Amery, Esq.). There are 
 some iron and copper mines in this 
 neighbourhood. (There is a third 
 drive, entered from a point near 
 Buckland House, and passing at a 
 considerable height above the lower 
 drive first described. The views 
 
204 
 
 Route 12 . — Totnes to Ashburton . 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 from it are very fine ; but it is gene- 
 rally kept private.) 
 
 ( b ) Holne Chase lies on the rt. bank 
 of the river, and is entered beyond 
 Holne Bridge, by a road which also 
 serves as the approach to 
 
 The Chase House (Sir B. Wrey). 
 The carriage-drive here winds along 
 the valley at a lower level, and the 
 trees were finer (they have been 
 ruthlessly felled within the last few 
 years) than those of Buckland. The 
 banks of the rushing river are fringed 
 with Osmurda regalis , which here 
 grows to a very great size. 
 
 1. above Holne Bridge is the 
 entrance to Holne Park (Rev. H. 
 Wrey). The road ascends the hill, 
 and proceeds to the village of Holne. 
 (Exc. from Buckfastleigh.) 
 
 (c) Buckland Beacon , Widdecombe, 
 Heytor and Rippon Tor, may be 
 included in another day’s excur- 
 sion from Ashburton. (Buckland 
 Beacon may be climbed on the return 
 from Buckland Woods.) Thebeacon 
 commands a panorama of singular 
 interest. The following objects will 
 present themselves at different points 
 in the picture : — Rippon Tor, alt. 
 1549 ft., close at hand, N.N.E.; 
 Cut Hill, that lonely hill of bog, on 
 which the Dartmoor rivers have their 
 source (see Rte. 12), very distant, 
 but marked by a pile of turf, N. of 
 N.W. ; Crockem, and his brother 
 tors, fringing the horizon in the 
 N.W. ; N. Hesworthy Tor , alt. 1730 ft., 
 and Prince’s Town, N. of W. ; Buck- 
 land House and village ch., W. ; the 
 huge dreary ridge of Holne Moor, alt. 
 1 785 ft., on which the winter’s snows 
 make their first appearance, W.S.W. ; 
 the windings of the Dart , and woods 
 of Buckland, S.W. ; the distant but 
 striking eminence of South Brent Tor 
 (which serves the purpose of a 
 barometer to persons in this neigh- 
 bourhood), S.S.W. ; Auswell or Hazel 
 Tor , S. ; and the little town of 
 Ashburton , nestled among its hills, 
 
 S. of S. S. E. The Beacon con- 
 sists of a white and close-grained 
 granite. Three low distorted oaks on 
 its western slope will remind the tra- 
 veller of Wistman’s Wood (Rte. 13). 
 Hazel Tor is crowned by a large 
 cairn ; and there is a circle of stones 
 (not a hut circle) on the side of 
 Buckland Beacon. 
 
 Winding round Buckland Beacon, 
 a cross road descends into the valley 
 of Widdecombe. 
 
 Widdecombe in the Moor (the only 
 resting-place is a very poor village 
 inn) marks the frontier of culti- 
 vation, but is a very ancient 
 settlement, as may be seen by the 
 weather-stained walls of the cottages. 
 An old manor-house called North 
 Hall, of which no remains are now 
 visible, formerly stood near the 
 churchyard. The almshouses near 
 the ch. are of the 15th centy. The 
 ch., dedicated to St. Pancras, has an 
 excellent Perp. tower — often com- 
 pared, for its beauty of proportion, 
 to Magdalen Tower, Oxford — which 
 is said to have been voluntarily 
 built by a company of tinners who 
 had worked the neighbouring mines 
 with profit. Something has been 
 done toward the restoration of this 
 ch., which, it may be hoped, will 
 always be allowed to retain its simple 
 old-world character. It has been 
 the scene of a singular disaster. In 
 Oct. 1638, during divine service, 
 a terrible storm burst over the 
 village, and, after some flashes of 
 uncommon brilliancy, a ball of fire 
 dashed through a window of the ch. 
 into the midst of the congregation. 
 At once the pews were overturned, 
 4 persons were killed, and 62 wounded, 
 many by a pinnacle of the tower which 
 tumbled through the roof, while “ the 
 stones,” says Prince, “ were thrown 
 down from the steeple as fast as if it 
 had been by 100 men.” The country 
 people accounted for this awful de- 
 struction by a wild tale that “the 
 devil, dressed in black, and mounted 
 
205 
 
 Devonshire. Route 12. — Widdecombe — Penwood . 
 
 on a black horse, inquired his way 
 to the ch. of a woman who kept a 
 little public-house on the moor. He 
 offered her money to become his 
 guide, but she distrusted him on re- 
 marking that the liquor went hissing 
 down his throat, and finally had her 
 suspicions confirmed by the glimpse 
 of a cloven foot which he could 
 not conceal by his boot.” On the 
 same day Plymouth was pelted by 
 enormous hailstones. The visitor 
 to Widdecombe church should read 
 some edifying verses on a tablet in 
 the N. aisle commemorating the 
 disaster. (“An exact relation of 
 those sad and lamentable accidents, 
 which happened in and about the 
 parish ch. of Wydecombe near the 
 Dartmoor,” will be found in vol. iii. 
 of the ‘Harleian Miscellany/ Joseph 
 Hall, then Bp. of Exeter, in com- 
 menting on this storm, refers to a 
 great tempest which about the same 
 time shattered the Churches of 
 Mechlin, and was also held to have 
 been the work of evil spirits.) 
 
 Widdecombe is locally spoken of 
 as “ Widdecombe in theDartmoors,” 
 and occasionally, in a quainter phrase- 
 ology, as “Widdecombe in the cold 
 country, good Lord !” Its position 
 is a bleak one, on the border of so 
 wild and extensive a moor ; and along 
 the S. coast there is a saying when 
 it snows, “ that Widdecombe folks 
 are picking their geese/’ This, how- 
 ever, writes a correspondent of ‘ Notes 
 and Queries/ may be only an allusion 
 to the sky, which in Devonshire is 
 (or was) also called “widdicote,” for 
 example in the nursery riddle — 
 
 “ Widdicote, woddicote, over-cote hang, 
 
 Nothing so broad, and nothing so lang, 
 
 As widdicote, woddicote, over-cote hang.” 
 
 The vale of Widdecombe, shut 
 in by lofty and granite-strewn 
 hills, with the fine Perpendicular 
 tower rising in the centre, is of ex- 
 treme beauty . Ancient sycamores are 
 scattered up and down the slopes, so 
 stately and wide-spreading as to 
 recall the noble lines of Waller: — 
 
 “In such green palaces the first kings reign’d, 
 Slept in their shade, and angels entertain’d : 
 With such old counsellors they did advise, 
 And, by frequenting sacred shades, grew 
 
 wise.” 
 
 The long ridge of Hameldon, be- 
 yond which lies Grimspound (see 
 Rte. 8) stretches N. of Widdecombe; 
 and on the other side of the Web- 
 bum, 3 tors— Honeybag Tor, Chink- 
 well rock, and Bel tor — rise above 
 the village. There are some pleasant 
 spots — moss-covered boulders under 
 scattered oaks, and around ancient 
 cottages — by the side of a streamlet 
 which rushes downward under these 
 tors to join the Webburn. 
 
 A road winds up the hill from 
 Widdecombe to join the main road 
 from Ashburton by Heytor to Mana- 
 ton. By the side of this cross road 
 (rt. in ascending) are the remains of a 
 British village , very curiously parti- 
 tioned by track-lines; and within \ m. 
 N. of the ch. tower are 2 log an stones , 
 still movable : one called the Rug- 
 glestone , about 5 ft. thick, 22 ft. long, 
 19 ft. broad, and computed to weigh 
 110 tons; the other a flatter stone, 
 about 10 ft. in length, and 9 ft. in 
 breadth. Heytor and Rippon tor, 
 both of which the tourist may visit 
 in his return to Ashburton, are de- 
 scribed in Rte. 8. ( Exc . from Bovey.) 
 
 (c?) The road from Ashburton to 
 Newton (9 m.) has little to call for 
 special notice. Off it, 1. lie Bagtor 
 and Ilsington, described in Rte. 8. 
 
 At Bickington (rt.) is a Perp. ch., 
 of no great interest. Beyond (rt.) is 
 Ingsdon (C. H. Monro, Esq.). 
 
 Penvcood , the round, hill covered 
 with coppice opposite Ingsdon, is 
 noticeable. Polwhele asserts that 
 “a gentleman, quite a stranger, being 
 accidentally led to the house of 
 Ingsdon, was hospitably entertained 
 by its then owner, a Mr. Topsham ; 
 but observing a scantiness of fuel 
 not answering to the plenty of other 
 things, on his return home, he had 
 this wood conveyed to Mr. Topsham, 
 by deed of gift, as a mark of grati- 
 
206 
 
 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Town . Sect. I. 
 
 tude for his hospitality.” It still 
 belongs to Ingsdon. Beyond (after 
 turning rt. at Drum Bridge) the 
 grounds and house of Stover (Duke 
 of Somerset) are passed rt. 
 
 On the old road between Buck- 
 fastleigh and Ashburton (the pre- 
 decessor of the present turnpike), 
 Sir Walter Raleigh was arrested by 
 the king's messenger in July, 1618, 
 when on his way from Plymouth to 
 London. He was imprisoned in the 
 Tower, and beheaded October 29. 
 
 ROUTE 13. 
 
 MORETON HAMPSTEAD TO TAVISTOCK 
 (ROAD), DARTMOOR, PRINCE TOWN. 
 
 Tavistock is rather more than 20 
 m. distant from Moreton Hampstead. 
 The pedestrian will do well to rest 
 at Prince Town for at least one 
 night. He will find there a good 
 inn, in the very heart of Dartmoor. 
 He should prepare at any rate for 
 wild country, perhaps fierce winds ; 
 and may be reminded of an alehouse 
 sign which a few years ago would 
 have greeted his eyes on the border 
 of the moor. It represented a soli- 
 tary wayfarer battling against a 
 storm, and below was written — 
 
 “ Before the wild moor you venture to pass, 
 Pray step within and take a glass/' 
 
 3 m. from Moreton is Bector Cross , 
 at the intersection of the Moreton 
 
 and Tavistock, and Ashburton and 
 Chagford roads. The old cross may 
 be found in an adjoining field. 
 
 The traveller soon bids adieu to 
 cultivation, and rises into the eleva- 
 ted wilds of Dartmoor, of which it is 
 now necessary to give some descrip- 
 tion. [ The moor in the neighbour- 
 hood of Okehampton is described in 
 Rte. 6 ; of Ivybridge , in Rte. 7 ; of 
 Bovey Tracey , Manaton , and Chag - 
 ford , in Rte. 8 ; of Buckfastleigli and 
 Ashburton , in Rte. 12 ; and of Ply- 
 mouth and Tavistock , in Rte. 14. 
 All these places, besides Moreton 
 Hampstead , are good starting points 
 from which expeditions may be 
 made to different parts of Dartmoor. 
 The principal roads which traverse 
 the moor are from Ashburton to 
 Prince Town ; from Moreton and 
 Chagford to Prince Town ; and from 
 Prince Town (a) to Tavistock, and x 
 ( b ) to Plymouth.] 
 
 Dartmoor , so named from one of 
 the principal rivers which rises on it, 
 the Dart — whose name is apparently 
 cognate with those of the Durance 
 and Douro, and of the Kentish and 
 Yorkshire Darents, the root of which 
 has been referred to the Celtic dwr, 
 water — occupies an area of about 
 130,000 acres. The length of the 
 moor from N. to S. is 22 m. the 
 breadth about 20 m. and the mean 
 elevation about 1700 ft. Yes- 
 tor, the highest point, is 2050 ft. 
 above the sea. The central part of 
 this wild region, within certain fixed 
 “ regards ” or limits, has existed as a 
 royal ‘‘forest” from a period which 
 is quite uncertain. It is possible 
 that it was regarded as “King’s land” 
 before the Conquest ; or it may have 
 been erected into a forest by that 
 father of the high deer, who formed 
 for himself the New Forest in Hamp- 
 shire. The word ‘‘forest” soused, 
 implies, as it still does in the N. of 
 Scotland, a wilderness rather than a 
 tract covered with wood. In spite 
 of the ancient settlements which 
 
Devonshire. Route 13 .- 
 
 existed on Dartmoor, — of the huts of 
 “wealhas,” and tin streamers — wild 
 animals abounded here. Red deer 
 were numerous until at least the 
 17th centy. ; and the wolf and wild 
 cat are mentioned in a charter of 
 John (granted by him as Count of 
 Mortain ; — the charter is not dated, 
 —and it would appear from it that 
 the forest was in the hands of John 
 before he became king). This 
 charter is the earliest document in 
 existence connected with Dartmoor. 
 Neither the forest nor the tin works 
 are mentioned in Domesday ; but it 
 is tolerably certain that tin was 
 worked here at the time of the 
 survey, as indeed it had been for 
 ages before ; and the importance of 
 Lidford at the Conquest (see Rte. 6) 
 is best accounted for by supposing it 
 to have been a tin staple, or stan- 
 nary town. John, after he came to 
 the Crown, disafforested all those 
 parts of Devonshire which had been 
 brought under the cruel forest laws, 
 with the exception of Dartmoor and 
 Exmoor ; the bounds of which were 
 to remain as they had been in the 
 days of Henry I. For this benefit 
 he made the men of the county pay 
 dearly, (see the Close Rolls, where 
 the payment is duly recorded). In 
 1238 the “Castle of Dartmoor ” or 
 Lidford, and Dartmoor forest were 
 granted by Henry 111. to his brother 
 Richard, Earl of Cornwall ; and the 
 tin of Dartmoor (which was then 
 equal in quantity and value to that 
 produced from the whole of Cornwall) 
 assisted in raising the treasure which 
 gained for Richard his election as 
 King of the Romans. In 1307 
 Edward II. granted Dartmoor to 
 Piers Gaveston. In 1337 the forest 
 was united to the Duchy of Cornwall, 
 to which rank, in the year before, 
 the ancient Earldom had been raised 
 by Ed. III. in favour of his son the 
 Black Prince. So it has since re- 
 mained ; the Duchy, with the Forest 
 attached, being an appanage of the 
 direct heirs of the Crown, and re- 
 
 - Dartmoor. 207 
 
 verting to the Crown itself in failure 
 of such heirs. 
 
 The boundaries of the royal forest 
 lie considerably within the border of 
 the granite district. The forest 
 itself lies entirely in the parish of 
 Lidford ; but much of the wild 
 country on the southern and west- 
 ern borders is within the parish of 
 Widdecombe. These borders, with 
 the woods that fringe them, were 
 among the portions of the country 
 disafforested by King John. The 
 Crown, however (or the Duchy), still 
 retains certain rights over them. 
 They form what are known as the 
 “ Venville” or “ Fen field ” districts 
 — a name which has been derived 
 from “Fin Vill” (fines villarum), — 
 or more probably from the “ ven ” — as 
 the peat or black moor earth is called 
 —within the limits of which they 
 lie. “Venville” men are bound to 
 render certain services to the Lord 
 of the Forest. They must “ drive ” 
 the moor for trespasses, once yearly 
 in each of the quarters into which 
 the forest is divided; and must do 
 suit and homage at the forest courts. 
 On the other hand they have a right 
 of pasturage, at a fixed rate — and 
 may take anything off the forest 
 “that may do them good’ , — except 
 vert or green wood; they may fish 
 in all waters, and dig turf in any 
 place. 
 
 The expanse or table-land of Dart- 
 moor (it. is really a high plateau, 
 from which the tors break upward) 
 has in every part that billowy aspect 
 which Humboldt describes as cha- 
 racteristic of primitive chains. It is 
 entirely of granite, and has been aptly 
 compared to a mountain squeezed 
 down, and in the process split 
 asunder, “till the whole was one 
 hilly wilderness, showing ever and 
 anon strange half- buried shapes 
 striving to uplift themselves towards 
 the sky.” — Christopher North in 
 Blackwood . The granite of Dart- 
 
 moor is the highest link in a chain 
 of similar rock, which extends at 
 
208 
 
 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Toil'n. Sect. L 
 
 intervals westward throughout Corn- 
 wall, gradually lowering until it 
 terminates in the rocks of Scilly. 
 Three distinct kinds of granite — in- 
 dicating 3 separate outbursts— are 
 found on Dartmoor. See Introd . 
 ‘ Geology.’ “ The formation of large 
 roads over the hilly country of 
 Dartmoor has long since altered its 
 ancient character ; and deprived it 
 of that appearance of seclusion, and 
 that difficulty of access, for which it 
 was once so remarkable; but any 
 one who, leaving the high road, 
 wanders amidst the hills on either 
 side, may still form an idea of the 
 previous aspect of that inhospitable 
 region, and of its natural strength 
 against hostile intrusion .” — Sir G. 
 Wilkinson. With the exception of 
 the land surrounding the prisons, 
 and some small farms, on the high 
 road and far from each other, 
 Dartmoor is entirely uncultivated, 
 its hills and glens being seldom dis- 
 turbed by other sounds than those of 
 the rushing torrent or howling wind. 
 A coarse grass, heather, reeds, the 
 whortleberry, and moss, are the prin- 
 cipal produce of the granitic soil ; 
 trees vanish from the view upon 
 entering the moor, and even fern 
 and furze are confined to the deepest 
 valleys. There is indeed a tradition 
 that Dartmoor was once clothed 
 with wood ; but this can only have 
 been the case at some very remote 
 and prehistoric period — a time which 
 is indicated by the depth in the turf 
 bogs at which blackened trunks of 
 oak and other trees are occasionally 
 found. In the Meiocene age the 
 great conifer called the Sequoia 
 Couttsisc,” found in the Heathfield 
 at Bovey, seems to have grown in 
 a dense forest over the granite of 
 Dartmoor. (See Bovey , Rte. 8). In 
 the heart of the wilderness (which is 
 farther described in Hte. 6, Kxc. b. 
 from Okehampton) both hill and 
 valley are desolated by an immense 
 morass, deeply furrowed by rain, in- 
 accessible except after a long con- 
 
 tinuance of dry weather, and in 
 some places incapable of supporting 
 the lightest animal. Here rise the 
 most celebrated of those numberless 
 streams which give life to the dreary 
 waste, and descend through ravines 
 on the border of the district. The 
 Dart, Teign, Tavy, and Taw all 
 drain from this huge plastic store of 
 1 peat; the rivers Erme and Yealm, 
 and about 50 smaller streams, from 
 less extensive swamps in other quar- 
 ters of the moor; all being alike 
 characterised by a beautiful trans- 
 parency during fine weather, and 
 alike subject to sudden inundation, 
 when, in the language of Ossian, 
 “ red through the stony vale comes 
 down the stream of the hill.” “ The 
 roaring of these torrents after heavy 
 rain, and when the wind favours its 
 transmission, is sublime to a degree 
 inconceivable by those who have 
 never heard their impressive music 
 in a wild and solitary district.” 
 There are stream-names on the moor, 
 which sufficiently indicate the pecu- 
 liarities of these mountain rivers : 
 Cherrybrook , denoting their colour 
 when flooded ; and Blackbrook , or 
 Blackabrook, having reference to 
 the dark coating of moss on their 
 granite stones. The difference be- 
 tween the colour of these Dartmoor 
 streams, and of those which rush 
 and foam over the slates of West- 
 morland and Cumberland, is very 
 noticeable. The clear, greenish tint 
 of the Northern waters is never seen 
 on Dartmoor. 
 
 The most striking features of Dart- 
 moor are the Tors, enormous rocks of 
 granite crowning the hills, and re- 
 markable for their whimsical resem- 
 blance to ruinous castles, the figures 
 of uncouth animals, and even to 
 “ human forms, gigantic in their 
 dimensions, which sometimes seem 
 to start up wildly as the lords and 
 natural denizens of this rugged wilder- 
 ness.” For the geological character 
 of these tors see Introd . The word 
 
Devonshire 
 
 Route 13 . — Dartmoor. 
 
 209 
 
 )ccurs in both Somersetshire ( Glas - 
 onbury Tor) and Derbyshire, and is 
 ipparently cognate with the Hebrew 
 Tsoor = a rock, and the Phoenician 
 For = Tyre. (Compare also the 
 rurkish dagh, and the form which 
 >ccurs so frequently in the Caucasus.) 
 rhese tors are all distinguished by 
 lames, which attach to the hills as 
 -veil as to their granite crowns. 
 Some, it has been suggested, are 
 lerived from the gods of the Druid- 
 cal worship, as Hessary or Hessworthy 
 ror, Mis Tor, Bel Tor, and Ham 
 ror; respectively from Hesus, the 
 jrod of Battles ; Misor , the moon ; Bel 
 >r Belus, the sun ; and Ham or Am- 
 non , another of the British deities; 
 )ut as Druidical worship and the 
 Druidical gods are themselves of 
 re ry “ shadowy ” existence, etymo- 
 ogies derived from them are no 
 )etter than fantastic guesses. Others, 
 igain, it would seem, have been 
 aken from various animals, as Lynx 
 >r Links Tor, Hare Tor, Fox Tor, 
 Sound Tor, Sheep's Tor, and Dunna- 
 <oat Tor ; yet it is not unlikely that 
 nany of these are corruptions, and 
 lave had a very different origin, 
 fhus Lynx Tor is probably the 
 Cornish lynnick , marshy ; Dunna- 
 ^oat, dun-a-coet, answering to the 
 Saxon “ underwood ;” and many 
 ithers — such as High Willies and 
 »V allabrook — are perhaps memorials 
 ■ither of ancient tin-mines, the 
 Cornish huels, which are pronounced 
 wheels, or of the “ wealhas ” — the 
 dritons to whom that name — the 
 ; Welshmen ” — those who were not 
 English — was given by the ad- 
 ducing Saxons. Ephraim’s Pinch, 
 high tract N. of Bel Tor, would 
 eem to be indebted for its name to 
 he Jews, who so long farmed the tin- 
 rorks. But the local names of 
 lartmoor call for a far more tho- 
 ough and careful examination than 
 hey have as yet received ; and 
 vhile many of them are most likely 
 >f Celtic origin — the “indignant 
 dlls ” being slow to [cast off their 
 
 old names — a far greater proportion 
 are probably Teutonic than appears 
 at first sight. The theory that 
 would place a Northern (Norwegian 
 or Danish) settlement on Dartmoor 
 is utterly untenable, and is not borne 
 out by a single etymological or his- 
 torical fact. 
 
 The loftiest of these rock-capped 
 hills is Yes (East) Tor , near Oke- 
 hampton, 2050 ft. above the sea, and 
 682 ft. higher than Brown Willy, 
 the summit of Cornwall ; but no less 
 than 1 9 of the Dartmoor tors attain a 
 greater elevation than Brown Willy. 
 Of their number an idea may be 
 conveyed by the statement that 150 
 are enumerated by name in a note to 
 Carrington’s poem of ‘Dartmoor;’ 
 but some which are therein mentioned 
 are now separated from the moor by 
 cultivation. The principal summits 
 are Yes Tor , Cawsand Beacon , Fur 
 Tor , Lynx Tor, and Rough Tor , in 
 the N. quarter ; S. Brent Tor, West 
 Beacon, and Holne Ridge, in the S. 
 quarter ; Hey Tor , Rippon Tor, Hound 
 Tor, Hameldon Down, and Believer 
 Tor, in the E. quarter ; and Sheep's 
 Tor, Lether Tor, N. Hessary (or Hess- 
 worthy') Tor, Crockern Tor, Whiten 
 Tor, Great Bairdown, Great Mis Tor , 
 N '. Brent Tor , and Hare Tor, in the 
 W. quarter. These are the most 
 conspicuous eminences, and, hardly 
 excepting the two Brent Tors, are 
 all as wild and rude as in days when 
 the Britons wandered over them, 
 and are well calculated to delight all 
 those who can appreciate the gran- 
 deur of their desolate scenery. Their 
 hues are ever changing, and inde- 
 scribably beautiful, depending in a 
 measure upon the altitude of the sun, 
 and the spectator’s position with re- 
 gard to it. On a cloudless day the 
 hills have a spectral appearance from 
 the light tone of their colour, while 
 the delicate shadows add not a little 
 to their sublimity. At all times, how- 
 ever, they exhibit that harmonious 
 combination of tints peculiar to wild 
 districts where Nature has been left 
 
210 
 
 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Town . Sect. I. 
 
 to herself. She paints the land which 
 is patched with fields and scored with 
 hedgerows ; but there her colouring is 
 regulated by the farmer. The artist 
 will find that the tints of the moor, 
 although infinitely varied by dis- 
 tance and the state of the atmo- 
 sphere, are derived from a few 
 humble plants, viz. heather, a grass 
 with white seeds, a pale green grass, 
 a bright green moss, and a red grass 
 and rushes in the swamps. They 
 are beautifully mingled with the grey 
 of rocks and the blue of streams, 
 and modified by the shadows which 
 fleet over the expanse. By sunset, 
 however, it is a far more difficult 
 task to analyse the colours of these 
 solitary hills. The surfaces of the 
 tors are everywhere much weathered, 
 and principally, no doubt, by the 
 abrasion of the rain which is dasjied 
 against them, for the fury with 
 which the winds assail these granite 
 heights can be understood only by 
 those who have been exposed to it. 
 The Germans wish a troublesome 
 neighbour on the top of the Broc- 
 ken. Dartmoor is the Devonshire 
 Brocken, the local rhyme running 
 thus : — 
 
 “ He that will not merry he, 
 
 With a pretty girl by the fire, 
 
 I wish he was a-top of Dartemoor 
 A-stugged in the mire.” 
 
 Those who have a taste for the 
 wild and the wonderful may glean a 
 rich harvest in the cottages of the 
 peasantry, where a view of the deso- 
 late moor will impart a lively interest 
 to such traditions. Before the con- 
 struction of the present excellent 
 roads, it was not very unusual for 
 travellers to be lost, or pixy -led, in 
 the mist, when they often perished 
 either with cold or hunger. At one 
 period robbers (the Gubbinses — see 
 Lidford , Rte. 6) defied the law among 
 the inaccessible morasses, and le- 
 vied toll upon the wayfarer. But, 
 according to the country people, the 
 mishaps on the moor have more 
 generally arisen from evil spirits, 
 
 whom to this day they believe to 
 haunt the hills, where, they also 
 affirm, “ under the cold and chaste 
 light of the moon, or amidst the 
 silent shadows of the dark rocks, 
 the elfin king of the pixy race holds 
 his high court of sovereignty and 
 council.” The Wish-hounds (see post, 
 Wistman’s Wood) are an unearthly 
 pack, with fiery eyes and flaming 
 mouths, that hunt over Dartmoor, 
 and over wild land in the S. of 
 Devon. This solitary district was 
 indeed for a lengthened period 
 the “ mark/’ or boundary, beyond the 
 lands on which English colonists 
 had settled. As such, it was espe- 
 cially under the control of mys- 
 terious beings — gods, heroes, and 
 powerful “ elves” — and still retains, 
 to a certain extent, the character 
 then assigned to it. A Devonshire 
 peasant hardly cares to venture on 
 the “ deysarts (deserts) of Derty- 
 more” — to use the true Doric — 
 except in good company. Misfor- 
 tunes of various sorts have occurred 
 to those who dare to face its perils 
 alone. 
 
 With respect to the climate , the 
 altitude of the moor, the frequent 
 occurrence of rain, and the imper- 
 vious nature of the subsoil, neces- 
 sarily render it both cold and moist. 
 The hills are often enveloped in mist 
 for a week at a time, and the clouds 
 assemble with so little warning, that 
 no stranger should wander far from 
 the beaten track without a compass. 
 The streams, however, will generally 
 afford clues of safety. The danger 
 arises from the bogs, which are sig- 
 nificantly called the Dartmoor Stablesj 
 and in winter from snow, which is 
 indeed often fatal to those who have 
 the greatest experience (such names 
 as “Honeywell’s bed,” 4 ‘ Clark’s 
 grave,” and the story of Childe the 
 hunter (see post) indicate the risk ; a 
 winter, indeed, rarely passes without 
 loss of life in snow) ; but at all 
 times “ a storm on Dartmoor bears 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 13. — Dartmoor . 
 
 211 
 
 ittle resemblance to storms in gene- 
 al. It is awful, perilous, astound- 
 ng, and pitiless ; and woe to the 
 tranger who, in a dark night and 
 without a guide, is forced to en- 
 counter it ! ” The soil consists of 
 \ fine granitic sand, or growan , upon 
 which is superimposed a layer of 
 peat of uncertain depth, but occa- 
 sionally as thick as 25 ft. or 30 ft. 
 The prevailing moisture of the 
 moor, the absence of good soil, 
 and the want of drainage are the 
 principal obstacles to successful cul- 
 tivation. The vapours swept from 
 the Atlantic by the westerly winds 
 are uniformly condensed by these 
 chilly heights ; and so frequent is the 
 rain that it might be imagined, in ac- 
 cordance with a popular rhyme, that 
 clouds hover in the neighbourhood 
 ready to relieve each other as the 
 wind may shift : — 
 
 “ The south wind blows, and brings wet 
 weather, 
 
 The north gives wet and cold together ; 
 
 The west wind comes brimfull of rain, 
 
 The east wind drives it back again. 
 
 Then if the sun in red should set, 
 
 We know the morrow must be wet ; 
 
 And if the eve is clad in grey, 
 
 The next is sure a rainy day.” 
 
 (This is a “ moor woman's” version 
 in 1866.) 
 
 However, says an old writer, “The 
 ayre is very sweete, wholesome, and 
 temperate, savinge that in the winter 
 seasons the great blustering winds, 
 rowling upon the high craggy hills 
 and open wastes and moores, do 
 make the ayre very cold and 
 sharpe.” In fine weather and in 
 summer it is, however, bracing and 
 most delightful — not the less enjoy- 
 able for the dash of peat smoke 
 which occasionally perfumes it. 
 Those who find pleasure in wild 
 scenery and invigorating exercise 
 may pass a week or more pleasantly 
 at Two Bridges or Prince Town. 
 The streams abound with trout, the 
 morasses with snipe, and one fond 
 of natural history may observe many 
 a rare bird (as the rock or ring ouzel) 
 
 and many an interesting moss and 
 lichen (as the Iceland moss, which is 
 made into cakes by the Icelanders) 
 in his rambles. In the summer, if 
 benighted far from the inn, it is no 
 hazardous adventure to pass a night 
 in the open air. A couch of heather 
 may be had for the trouble of gather- 
 ing it, peat that will burn well may 
 generally be found stacked and suffi- 
 ciently dried ; and, indeed, a compan- 
 ion, a warm plaid, a knife, a tinder- 
 box, a well-stored wallet, and perhaps 
 a pouch of tobacco, are the only essen- 
 tials for a very pleasant bivouac. The 
 antiquary will of course find ample 
 interest and employment in the in- 
 vestigation of the British remains. 
 (See Introd .) With respect to the wild 
 animals which at one time were the 
 denizens of Dartmoor, although un- 
 common in other parts of England, 
 there now remain only the badger, 
 polecat or fitchet, pine- weasel, and the 
 otter, which frequents all the moor- 
 land rivers to the sea, and also the 
 caverns at their mouths. Of rare birds 
 there is a greater variety, but some 
 are migratory, and others only casual 
 visitors. Among those which breed 
 upon the moor may be enumerated 
 the marsh harrier or moor buzzard, 
 hen harrier, raven, hooded crow, ring 
 ouzel, water ouzel, missel thrush, song 
 thrush, whinchat, stonechat or stone- 
 smith, black grouse, landrail, golden 
 plover, lapwing, sanderling, curlew, 
 dunlin, moor hen, and coot. Among 
 the visitors the osprey or bald buz- 
 zard, peregrine falcon, common buz- 
 zard, kite (but becoming rarer every 
 year), hobby falcon, snow bunting, 
 mountain sparrow, mountain finch, 
 grey wagtail, yellow wagtail, great 
 plover, water rail, night heron, little 
 bittern, jack snipe, herring gull, 
 whistling swan, wild goose, white- 
 fronted goose, and bean goose. The 
 honey buzzard or goshawk, kestrel, 
 and great snipe, are very rare, but 
 have been seen. 
 
 The antiquities and natural his- 
 tory of the district have been very 
 
212 
 
 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Torn. Sect. 1. 
 
 pleasantly described by the late Rev. 
 S. Rowe, of Crediton, in his ‘ Per- 
 ambulation of Dartmoor/ published 
 1848. Much has been done in this 
 direction, however, since that book 
 appeared. Mr. G. W. Ormerod, long 
 resident at Chagford, has thoroughly 
 investigated all the neighbouring 
 quarter of the moor, and has printed 
 some valuable papers on the geology 
 and antiquities in the Transac- 
 tions of the Geological Society, of 
 the Plymouth Institute, and of the 
 Devon Association. In the volumes 
 of the last mentioned society will 
 also be found some interesting con- 
 tributions by Mr. C. Spence Bate, 
 F.A.S., relating to the primitive 
 remains. The visitor will also find 
 some valuable information in the 
 notes to Carrington’s ‘ Dartmoor/ 
 and in the poem itself, which may 
 be read to advantage on the misty 
 heights of the tors. It has been 
 compared to certain wines, which 
 can be drunk in perfection only on 
 the spots on which they are grown. 
 
 Returning from this digression to 
 our route : — 
 
 1 m. (5 m. from Moreton) rt. of the 
 road are the remains of trackways 
 connected with a pound 80 yards in 
 diameter, enclosing 2 hut circles . 
 Here, from the highest point of the 
 road, look back over the wide land- 
 scape of cultivated country. 
 
 1 m. Xeichousc , a small inn, and 
 adjoining it a rabbit-warren. Some 
 years ago John Roberts was the 
 landlord, and the following his sign: 
 
 “ John Roberts lives here, 
 
 Sells brandy and beer, 
 
 Your spirits to cheer ; 
 
 And should you want meat, 
 
 To make up the treat, 
 
 There be rabbits to eat.” 
 
 1. is an ancient stone cross f and a 
 road to Vitifer Mine. About 2 m. E. 
 of this mine is Grinisponwl , described 
 in route 8. £ m. N. is King's Oven y 
 
 a hill once crested by a cairn, to 
 
 which that name is now given. But 
 “ King’s Oven,” the “ Furnum Regis” 
 of the ‘ Perambulation/ temp. Hen. 
 III., must have been an ancient 
 smelting house. The cairn at King’s 
 Oven has been nearly all removed, 
 and the kistvaen within it, broken 
 and dilapidated, is exposed to view. 
 
 2 m. Post Bridge. The E. Dart here 
 crosses the road, and the valley is 
 partly cultivated. Archerton (J. N. 
 Bennett, Esq.), a new take , a name 
 given to portions of land recently 
 enclosed (“ intake ” is the term simi- 
 larly used in the New Forest. Com- 
 pare the old English “ worthy s ” and 
 “ nymets ” (see Rte. 6), used in a 
 slightly different manner, but equally 
 implying land cut off and enclosed 
 from the neighbouring common), 
 will be observed on the rt. Here, 
 too, is a small chapel (the western 
 half separated by a movable screen, 
 so as to serve as a school-room in the 
 week), one of two built in 1867-8, on 
 Dartmoor, and within the bounds of 
 the parish of Lidford. The other is 
 at Dartmeet. On the barren hillside 
 1. of the road is Lakehead Circle , or 
 pound , a ring of stones enclosing about 
 2 acres, and of a similar character to 
 the British village of Grimspound, 
 but not so large or perfect. The 
 area is studded with a number of 
 hut circles , many of which, with 2 
 kistvaens, may be seen on the open 
 moor in its vicinity. (It is much to 
 be regretted that so many of these 
 remains have been injured by the 
 fencers of “ new takes ” on the moor, 
 who resort to them as their readiest 
 quarry. Such spoliation should be 
 strictly forbidden by the officers of 
 the duchy.) Immediately W. the 
 traveller will observe the bold rocks 
 of Believer Tor , an excellent point 
 for a panoramic view. 
 
 Just below Post Bridge is one of 
 the most interesting of all the primi- 
 tive remains on Dartmoor, an ancient 
 bridge of Cyclopean architecture. 
 (See it figured in Smiles’s ‘ Lives of 
 
Devonshire. lloute 13 .— 
 
 the Engineers/ vol. i.) It is formed 
 of rough granite blocks and slabs, 
 and consists of three piers and a 
 roadway of table-stones, each about 
 15 ft. in length, and 6 ft. in width. 
 One of the latter has fallen into the 
 river, but with this exception the 
 bridge is perfect. About ljm. lower 
 down the stream is a smaller but 
 similar structure (Believer Bridge), 
 of which the central impost is the 
 only part displaced. N. of the high 
 road are some other relics. At 
 Archerton, in a field fronting the 
 house, remains of kistvaens and an 
 elliptical pound ; 1 m. N., opposite 
 Hartland Tor , a mutilated but inter- 
 esting enclosure, smaller, but resem- 
 bling that of Grimspound ; and on 
 Chittaford Tor (just W. of Hartland 
 Tor) a trackway or road, running a 
 westerly course from the river. 
 
 2 m. rt. by the side of the rivulet 
 are numerous traces of the “ old men” 
 who here streamed for tin. Leland 
 mentions the Dartmoor mines, and 
 says “ they were wrought by violens- 
 of water.” The ridge on the rt. at 
 this part of the road is crested by 4 
 tors, which rise one beyond and above 
 the other nearly in a line. The 
 lowest is Crockem Tor , celebrated as 
 the meeting-place for the Stannary 
 Parliament. In earlier times the 
 tinners of Devon and Cornwall 
 formed but one body, meeting once 
 in 7 or 8 years upon Hingston Down, 
 on the Cornish side of the Tamar. 
 A charter confirming ancient Stan- 
 nary privileges was granted (for 
 both counties) by Edmund Earl of 
 Cornwall, son of Richard, King of the 
 Romans, and was confirmed by Ed. 
 I. in the 33rd year of his reign. 
 Thenceforth the “parliament” was 
 divided. That for Cornwall was still 
 held on Hingston Down : that for 
 Devonshire on Crockern Tor. Here 
 the tinners, seated on their benches 
 of granite, swore in jurors, and 
 transacted other important matters. 
 In later years the parliament, after 
 
 Post Bridge . 213 
 
 assembling at the tor, removed its 
 deliberations to Tavistock or Ash- 
 burton, where more “ comfortable 
 provision and good store of wine” 
 were to be found. The granite 
 table and seats of the stannators 
 were removed to Prince Hall toward 
 the latter part of the last century, 
 and of course have been destroyed. 
 Rude steps may be traced in the 
 tor, ascending to what may have 
 been the warden’s seat. A meeting 
 was held on the hill as late as 
 1749. At an earlier period the Earl 
 of Bath, Lord Warden of the Stan- 
 naries (son of the well-known Sir 
 Beville Grenville), attended the meet- 
 ing with a retinue of several hun- 
 dred persons — his own retainers and 
 gentlemen of the county. At such 
 times the scene about the rude old 
 tor must have resembled some 
 Norwegian or Icelandic A1 - thing. 
 Polwhele remarks, “ I have scarce a 
 doubt that the Stannary Parliaments 
 at this place were a continuation, 
 even to our own times, of the old 
 British courts before the age of 
 Julius Caesar.” “ These primitive 
 courts,” says Sir R. C. Hoare, “ were 
 usually held on artificial mounts, or 
 natural ones adapted to the purpose. 
 The Tinwald Hill in the Isle of Man, 
 the moot hills of Scotland, and the 
 Irish parle, or parling hills, prove 
 the universal practice, adopted, per- 
 haps, from the Gorseddau, or court 
 of judicature among the Britons, 
 which was assembled on a hill within 
 a circle of stones, or an amphitheatre 
 of turf.” (Open-air courts were, of 
 course, common to Celt and Teuton, 
 and there is no reason for suggest- 
 ing that one borrowed from the 
 other.) The three tors which rise 
 above Crockern Tor are called Little 
 Longa ford, Great Longaford, and 
 White or Whiten Tor, the last crown- 
 ing the summit of the ridge. They 
 all finely illustrate the structure of 
 granite, and command imposing views 
 of the moor. 
 
 2 m. Two Bridges, an inn and a few 
 
214 
 
 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Town . Sect. I. 
 
 cottages on the banks of the W. 
 Dart; convenient head-quarters for 
 the angler or sportsman. The inn 
 (Saracen’s Head) is but indifferent, 
 however, and a really good one 
 will be found at Prince Town. 
 
 About 1 m. up the stream lies the 
 lonely old Wood of Wistman , sup- 
 posed to be a remnant of the forest 
 which, as it is said, once covered 
 Dartmoor. This traditional forest 
 certainly can never have existed 
 within the historical period : but the 
 patch of oak wood here has so 
 weird an appearance, is so stunted 
 and misshapen in its growth, so im- 
 penetrable from the nature of the 
 ground, and exhibits such singular 
 marks of age, that it cannot fail to 
 excite very great interest. It is situ- 
 ated in a valley, bounded on the one 
 side by Crockern Tor and its associate 
 hills, on the other by Little and 
 Great Bairdown, the slopes being 
 strewed with blocks of granite, and 
 the vista closed by a barren ridge, upon 
 which will be remarked the isolated 
 rock of Rowtor, which bears no fanci- 
 ful resemblance to some huge animal 
 reclining on the moor. Pursuing his 
 toilsome way through this rugged 
 hollow, the traveller will soon dis- 
 cover the wood, which, from the oppo- 
 site height of Bairdown, has the ap- 
 pearance of three patches of a scrubby 
 brake. Arrived at the spot, however, 
 he will find “ growing in the midst of 
 gigantic blocks, or starting, as it were, 
 from their interstices, a grove of dwarf 
 oaks,” interspersed with mountain 
 ashes, which, with the oaks, are 
 everywhere hung with fern and pa- 
 rasitical plants. Many of these trees 
 are wonderfully diminutive, scarcely 
 exceeding the stature of a man, and 
 the average height of the wood is 
 only 10 or 12 feet ; but the oaks, 
 at the top, “ spread far and wide, 
 and branch and twist in so fantastic 
 and tortuous a manner as to remind 
 one of those strange things called 
 mandrakes.” How they are rooted 
 
 it is impossible to tell ; they grow in 
 a dangerous wilderness, “ a whisht old 
 place,” where rocky clefts, swarming 
 with adders, are so concealed by. a 
 thorny undergrowth that a person 
 who should rashly enter the wood 
 will be probably precipitated to the 
 chin before he can escape from it. 
 Another curious circumstance is the 
 apparent barren condition of this an- 
 tiquated family. No young scions 
 are to be found springing up to supply 
 the places of the elders. Not a 
 few of these veterans are already 
 dead, and the greater number wi- 
 thered at the extremities. The 
 numerous parasitical plants have 
 probably hastened the decay of 
 these melancholy old trees, most of 
 which, however, still produce bud, 
 leaf, and acorn in their season. More 
 than 700 concentric rings have been 
 counted in a section from the trunk 
 of one of these trees. “ Their 
 branches are literally festooned with 
 ivy and creeping plants ; and their 
 trunks are so thickly embedded in a 
 covering of moss, that at first sight you 
 would imagine them to be of enor- 
 mous thickness in proportion to their 
 height. But it is only their velvet 
 coats which make them look so bulky, 
 for on examination they are found 
 not to be of any remarkable size.” — 
 Mrs. Bray . It is popularly said 
 
 that Wistman’s Wood consists of 500 
 trees 500 ft. high, or that each 
 tree averages 1 foot in height. The 
 magnificent foxgloves which grow 
 among the oaks, and are nearly as 
 tall as they, deserve especial notice. 
 The visitor who approaches Wist- 
 man’s Wood in the stillness of a 
 summer’s noon may possibly sight 
 Reynard himself, couched on one of 
 the granite blocks under the oak- 
 leaves. The wood is famous for 
 foxes and snakes, — the common 
 Coluber natrix (the Devonshire “ long- 
 cripple”) and the viper. The 
 etymology of “ Wistman’s Wood ” is 
 uncertain ; but there seems good rea- 
 son for making it “ wisc-man wise, 
 
215 
 
 Devonshire. Route 13 . — Two Bridges — Prince Town . 
 
 or wish, being, according to Kemble, 
 a name of the old deity Woden, 
 often found in composition — as Wish - 
 borough, &c. Woden is still re- 
 presented on Dartmoor in the shape 
 of the swart “ master,” who, carry- 
 ing a long hunting pole, follows 
 the wish hounds (hounds of Odin ?) 
 — spectral dogs which hunt over the 
 wastes. “ Whishtness” in Devon- 
 shire is used for any unearthly 
 being, for the effects of witchcraft, 
 and for anything, indeed, which is 
 not at once intelligible. “ I seed 
 whishtness last night,” “a whisht- 
 ness came to the window,” “her’s 
 cruel whisht sure” (meaning she’s 
 very ill), ‘ ‘ a whisht old place of a 
 wood” — are illustrations of the word 
 as it is still in frequent use. The 
 traveller will learn with pleasure that 
 the old wood is protected by the 
 Duchy authorities. 
 
 Two Bridges is in the neighbour- 
 hood of the great central morass, and 
 a company some years since erected 
 works near the inn for the purpose 
 of preparing a patent fuel from the 
 peat, which yields, among other pro- 
 ducts, peat charcoal, pyroxylic spirit, 
 chloroform, peatine, tar, acetate of 
 lime, and sulphate of ammonia. The 
 attempt, however, was not suc- 
 cessful. 
 
 Just E. and W. of the hamlet roads 
 branch to Moreton, Ashburton, Ply- 
 mouth, and Tavistock. On the Ash- 
 burton road, 1 m. rt. is Prince Hall 
 ( — Barrington, Esq., Steward for 
 Dartmoor). On this property some 
 agricultural experiments were made 
 (circ. 1845-50) by Mr. Fowler, of 
 Liverpool, which proved that at an 
 unlimited expense it was possible to 
 get crops from some patches of the 
 soil, but which also proved that the 
 cost infinitely exceeded the possible 
 profits. Plantations, however, are 
 flourishing tolerably well here. 
 
 2j m. 1. of the road is Denna- 
 bridge Pound , formed by a rude stone 
 wall, and now used for the forest 
 
 f< drifts” of cattle. There are some 
 interesting antiquities in the imme- 
 diate neighbourhood ; and at Swin - 
 combe , in the valley rt. some curious 
 stones have been found at Gobbut’s 
 mine ( 1 m. above Hexworthy bridge). 
 They are circular, with perforations, 
 and troughed, apparently for grind- 
 ing ore in water. They lie still at the 
 mine, and are worth notice as relics of 
 the “old men’s” mining. The Cowsic 
 joins the W. Dart at Two Bridges, 
 and on the former, just below Bair- 
 down Farm, is a primitive bridge of 5 
 openings, 37 ft. long, about 4 ft. 
 broad, but only 3£ ft. above the 
 surface of the water ; on the adjoin- 
 ing common, Bairdown Man (evi- 
 dently maen, a stone — so Coniston 
 man , and many similar instances in 
 Westmorland and Cumberland), a 
 rock pillar 1 1 ft. high ; and on the 
 Blackabrook, just below the Ply- 
 mouth road, near Prince Town, a 
 primitive bridge of 2 openings. (The 
 antiquary should be told that some 
 inscriptions in mysterious characters 
 on the rocks of the Cowsic were the 
 work of the Rev. E. A. Bray.) 
 
 Panoramic views of the moor are ob- 
 tained from the summits of Crockern 
 Tor and Bairdown ; and the highest 
 tor on the latter is in itself very in- 
 teresting. This is called Bairdown 
 Tor , those to the N. of it being dis- 
 tinguished as Lidford Tor and Devil 
 Tor . 
 
 Prince Town (a very good inn called 
 the Duchy Hotel — this is by far the 
 best place of accommodation on 
 Dartmoor itself) lies on the Ply- 
 mouth road, about 2 m. from Two 
 Bridges, and is one of the most gaunt 
 and dreary places imaginable. It is 
 situated at least 1 400 ft. above the level 
 of the sea, at the foot of N. Hessary (or 
 Hess worthy) Tor (alt. 1730 ft.), and is 
 surrounded on all sides by the moor, 
 which comes in unbroken wildness 
 to the very door of the inn. With 
 such dismal scenery the hotel is in 
 keeping ; its granite walls are grim 
 and cheerless, but the windows com- 
 
216 
 
 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Town. 
 
 xnand an imposing sweep of the 
 waste, and this will be an attraction 
 to many travellers. It is truly im- 
 pressive to gaze across this desolate 
 region when the wind is howling 
 through the lonely village and the 
 moon litfully shining. 
 
 A short distance from the inn is 
 the celebrated Dartmoor Prison , erect- 
 ed in 1809 at a cost of 127,000?. for 
 the reception of French prisoners 
 of war. It occupies no less than 
 30 acres, and is encircled by a double 
 line of lofty walls, which enclose a 
 military road, nearly a mile in length, 
 and are furnished with sentry-boxes 
 and large bells, which, during the 
 war, were rung when the moor was 
 darkened by mists. The Prison con- 
 sists of a governor’s house and resi- 
 dences for officers, built on each side 
 of a Cyclopean gateway, over which 
 is the motto “Parcere subjectis,” a 
 hospital, sheds for exercise in wet 
 weather, and five buildings for pri- 
 soners, each 300 ft. long and 50 ft. 
 wide, which at one time held as many 
 as 10,000 prisoners. All the arrange- 
 ments are contrived with every re- 
 gard to the comfort and health of the 
 inmates for whom the building was 
 intended; but for many years after 
 the war the prison served no other 
 purpose than a landmark for persons 
 wandering in its lonely neighbour- 
 hood. At length it was leased to a 
 company engaged in extracting naph- 
 tha from peat; but in 1850 it under- 
 went a rapid change into a prison for 
 the reception of convicts, the motto 
 “ parcere subjectis ” remaining over the 
 gateway. French writers give a 
 curious account of Dartmoor. “For 
 seven months in the year,” says a M. 
 Cacel, “ it is a vraie Sib^rie, covered 
 with unmelting snow. When the 
 snows go away, the mists appear. 
 Imagine the tyranny of perfide Al- 
 bion in sending human beings to such 
 a place ! ” 
 
 A large new convict prison, ar- 
 ranged on the latest principle, is 
 
 Sect. I. j 
 
 (1872) in course of erection ; and it 
 is intended eventually to rebuild all 
 the old ones on the same model. 
 
 Since the introduction of convict 
 labour, the experiment of cultivating 
 Dartmoor (under these special cir- 
 cumstances) has proved satisfactory. 
 More than 100 acres around the 
 prison have been under tillage, and ! 
 in 1871, 1000 acres more were added , 
 to the prison lands. The cultivated 
 land produces abundant crops of j 
 mangold- wurzel, carrots, barley, oats, 
 flax, and vetches. Many tons 
 of hay are also annually stacked. 
 
 In the year ending 29th Sept. 1857, 
 the daily average number of prison- 
 ers was 1051, the total establishment 
 178 persons, the net total expenses 
 37,764?. 9s. 11c?., the net annual 
 charge per prisoner 35?. 18s. 6c?. In 
 1852 the value of the convict labour 
 was estimated at 13,000?. For seeing j 
 the interior of the prison, an order 
 (readily procured) from the Home 
 Office is necessary. The Chapel at 
 Prince Town was built by the 
 French prisoners in the early part 
 of the century. The pulpit and 
 seats were carved by them. 
 
 There is a tin mine ( White Works') 
 in the neighbourhood of Prince 
 Town. 
 
 Here the stranger should visit the 
 granite works and quarries on the W. 
 side of N. Hessary Tor, and about 2 j 
 m. from the inn, where he will observe 
 that the ground upon which he is 
 treading is the most solid compact 
 stone, concealed at the surface by 
 only a thin covering of turf and 
 heather. The quarries are on a 
 large scale, though no longer worked 
 by a company. They swarm with 
 men busily employed in breaking up 
 the ponderous material with their * 
 iron instruments, while others are 
 scattered far and wide over the huge j 
 side of N. Hessary, protected by reed- 
 covered frames, and preparing the 
 surface blocks for removal. It is im- 
 possible, however, to view this whole- ! 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 13 . — Great Mis Tor. 
 
 217 
 
 sale destruction of the picturesque 
 rocks without a feeling of regret, and 
 it is much to be wished that those 
 who have the power would save the 
 tors, at least, from the general havoc. 
 The finest stone can be procured in 
 any quantity below the surface ; and 
 all allow that these venerable tors, 
 which are the distinctive features of 
 one of the most beautiful counties in 
 England, are of little value in an 
 economical point of view. They 
 should therefore, surely, be left un- 
 injured. A number of men are 
 engaged in these works, and the moor 
 resounds with the din of iron clash- 
 ing against granite. From the quarry 
 runs the Plymouth and Dartmoor Rail- 
 road, winding round Grip Tor and 
 King Tor , and commanding a succes- 
 sion of magnificent landscapes, and, 
 where it crosses the coach-road, a 
 finely grouped company of tors to the 
 N.E. 
 
 Great Mis Tor (alt. 1760 ft.) is dis- 
 tant about a mile to the N. This is 
 one of the grandest hills in the county 
 (particularly as seen from the N.), 
 and is said by some wild antiquaries 
 to have derived its name from the 
 British deity Misor, or the moon (in- 
 vented apparently for the occasion), 
 but the 'mists which cling about its 
 crests are more likely responsible 
 for it. The rocks on the summit 
 are superb, resembling structures of 
 Cyclopean masonry, and illustrate in 
 a very striking manner the apparent 
 stratification of granite, the horizon- 
 tal layers being best seen on their 
 western sides. On the summit of 
 the highest rock is a celebrated rock- 
 basin called Mis lor Pan (if this 
 name really refers to it. “ Mistor- 
 panna” is mentioned as a boundarv 
 of lands granted to Buckland Ab- 
 bey by Isabella de Fortibus, temp. 
 Edw, I. ; where it refers evidently 
 to the hill itself) perfectly smooth 
 and circular, about 8 in. in depth, 
 and 3 ft. in diam. ; and just S.W. 
 of the principal tor, in the vicin- 
 [ Dev . ty Corn.'] 
 
 ity of an ancient tin stream-work 
 is a protuberance of granite called 
 Little Mis Tor . Several of the rocks 
 on Great Mis Tor are noticeable. An 
 egg-shaped mass is poised almost on a 
 point at the eastern summit ; and a 
 group on the N. flank of the hill 
 forms a rude archway, through which 
 a. person might crawl. This side of 
 Mis Tor is perfectly white with sur- 
 face granite, which will doubtless 
 soon attract the destructive host of 
 quarrymen. The river Walkham flows 
 at its base, and the slope which rises 
 from the opposite bank is studded 
 with a number of ancient hut circles , 
 and scored by lines of stones. Two 
 of the former are of considerable size, 
 and one consists of a double circle, 
 one within the other. High above 
 this river tower castellated rocks, 
 which, beginning with the northern- 
 most, are called Rolls Tor , Great Sta- 
 pletor. Middle Stapletor , and Little 
 Stapletor . The view from Great Mis 
 Tor will alone repay a scramble up 
 the hill. On the one side the eye 
 ranges over sterile bogs, which by 
 sunset afford a grand and solemn 
 prospect ; and on the other, by a 
 downward glance, to the vale of the 
 Tavy, and beyond to the heights of 
 the Bodmin Moors. 
 
 It is a wild day’s walk from 
 Prince Town, by Great Mis Tor 
 and Yes Tor to Okehampton, Yes 
 Tor being the landmark by which 
 the pedestrian can direct his course. 
 The summit of Great Mis Tor will 
 be the first stage of his journey ; and 
 from this eminence Yes Tor is in 
 sight, but so distant that it may not 
 be at once identified. The stranger 
 had better, therefore, direct his at- 
 tention to Fur Tor (2000 ft. high), 
 which occupies a position interme- 
 diate between Mis Tor and Yes Tor, 
 and will be easily distinguished as 
 covered with surface granite and 
 pale green grass, and crowned with a 
 rock like a tower, while it stands out 
 in advance of dark-coloured ridges 
 which are covered with morasses. 
 
 L 
 
218 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Town . Sect. I. 
 
 From Mis Tor he will follow the 
 Walkham to its source ; and near its 
 head-waters, in a lonely region, will 
 find 11 upright blocks of granite, 
 which he may spend an hour in 
 sketching, as a Druidical monument ; 
 but they are probably the pillars 
 which once supported a shed at an 
 old tin stream-work. Opposite Fur 
 Tor he will cross the Tavy and have a 
 good view of Yes Tor, for which he 
 can steer direct. (See Okehampton, 
 Rte. 6.) 
 
 1 J m. N. of the prison is Fice’s , or 
 Fitz’s Well, protected by rude slabs 
 of granite, bearing the initials I. F., 
 and date 1568. It is said to possess 
 many healing virtues, and to have 
 been first brought into notice by 
 John Fitz of Fitzford, near Tavi- 
 stock, who accidentally discovered it, 
 when, riding with his wife, he had 
 lost his way on the moor. “After 
 wandering,’' runs the legend, “ in the 
 vain effort to find the right path, they 
 felt so fatigued and thirsty, that it 
 was with extreme delight they dis- 
 covered a spring of water, whose 
 powers seemed to be miraculous ; for 
 no sooner had they satisfied their 
 thirst than they were enabled to find 
 their way through the moor towards 
 home without the least difficulty. In 
 gratitude for this deliverance, and the 
 benefit they had received from the 
 water, John Fitz caused a stone 
 memorial to be placed over the 
 spring, for the advantage of all 
 pixy-led travellers.” — Mrs . Bray . 
 The well is about 3 ft. deep, and 
 lies in a swamp at a short distance 
 from an ancient bridge, or clam, of 
 a single stone, on the Blackabrook. 
 If the traveller should be desirous 
 of taking a very delightful, though 
 circuitous, walk from Prince Town 
 to Plymouth, he can strike across the 
 moor S. by Classenwell Fool, long be- 
 lieved to be unfathomable, to Sheeps- 
 tor , the haunt of the pixies, and de- 
 scend Bickleigh Vale to his destina- 
 tion. This route will lead him 
 
 through one of the most beautiful 
 districts in the county. (See Rte. 
 14.) He will find a stat. on the Ply- 
 mouth and Tavistock rly. at Bick- 
 leigh. The main road to Plymouth 
 descends from the moor 4 m. from 
 Prince Town. In its course over the 
 high ground it passes a group of 
 hut circles , and (lj m. from Prince 
 Town) Black Tor, a rocky hill, very 
 interesting in itself, and towering 
 above a British settlement. In the 
 glen below it, on the bank of the 
 stream, are 2 stone avenues, running 
 E. and W., and terminating in cir- 
 cles 15 ft. in diam. (these circles are 
 in fact cairns, marked by concentric 
 circles of stones) ; and on the opposite 
 slope numerous hut circles, 9 of which 
 are enclosed in a pound 360 yds. in 
 circumf. On the W. side of the 
 same hill are remains of habitations 
 and a smaller pound . 
 
 About 3 m. S.E. of Prince Town, 
 in a desolate region, is a hill called 
 Fox Tor, connected with the following 
 legend. In the reign of Edw. III., 
 John Childe of Plymstock, a gentle- 
 man of large fortune, and very fond 
 of hunting, was enjoying his favourite 
 diversion during an inclement season, 
 when he happened to be benighted, 
 and, having lost nis way, he perished 
 with the cold, although he had taken 
 the precaution to kill his horse and 
 creep into its bowels for the warmth. 
 The monks of Tavistock, hearing 
 of the mysterious disappearance of 
 Childe, and of his intention to leave 
 his lands to the church in which he 
 should be buried, immediately started 
 for the moor, where they found the 
 lifeless bodies of the hunter and his 
 steed in a morass under Fox Tor; 
 and also the will of the deceased, 
 written with the blood of the horse : 
 
 “ The fyrste that fyndes and brings me to my 
 grave, 
 
 The lands of Plymstoke they shall have.” 
 
 Upon this they eagerly seized the 
 corpse, but, approaching the edge 
 
Devonshire. Route Id.—Syward’s Cross— Merivale Bridge. 219 
 
 of the moor, were somewhat dis- 
 concerted at learning that the 
 people of Plymstock were waiting 
 at a ford to intercept them. The 
 monks, however, were not to be 
 easily outwitted. They hastily 
 changed their course, and, throwing 
 a bridge, known to this day as Guile 
 Bridge (but more commonly called 
 the Abbey Bridge), across the river 
 near the abbey, reached Tavistock in 
 safety, and thus gained possession of 
 the lands. In memory of Childe, a 
 cross was erected on the spot where 
 he died, and was standing early in 
 the present century, when, a Mr. 
 Windeatt having taken a lease of 
 some land in its vicinity, it was 
 accidentally destroyed by workmen 
 during his absence. The founda- 
 tions still remain. The story of 
 Childe the hunter probably repre- 
 sents some early Saxon legend,— 
 since Plymstock belonged to the 
 Tavistock Benedictines before the 
 Conquest. Another version of it 
 occurs in the life of St. Dunstan, 
 who ought to have become Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury on the death of 
 Odo. But an intruding Elsi, whilst 
 crossing the Alps on his way to 
 Rome for his pall, was frozen to 
 death in spite of having killed and 
 got inside his horse. The name 
 Childe suggests the Saxon appella- 
 tion 44 cild” = child, which is found 
 bestowed on persons of various de- 
 gree, and the exact force of which 
 is not well understood. The legend 
 had certainly been attached to the 
 cross mentioned above, which must 
 have been of unusual importance, 
 since it seems to have been raised 
 on steps — unlike any other on Dart- 
 moor. So at least the existing traces 
 indicate. 
 
 Sywardfs Cross, 3 m. S. of Prince 
 Town, is an ancient monument, 
 with the words 44 Sy ward” on one 
 side and 44 Bod” 44 Bonde” on the 
 other. Like Childe’s Cross, it has 
 been overturned and broken, but 
 
 the late Sir Ralph Lopes had the 
 public spirit to repair and replace it. 
 The letters may be of the 12th or 
 13th centy. Sy ward’s Cross formed 
 one. of the boundary marks of Buck- 
 land Abbey, and is mentioned as 
 44 Crux Sywardi ” in the charter of 
 Isabella de Fortibus. It marked the 
 ^ 4 bonde” between the Royal forest 
 and the Monks’ Moor. Syward may 
 have been a former proprietor of the 
 Buckland manor ; but nothing is 
 known of him. Beyond Sy ward’s 
 Cross the view from Cramber Tor, 
 looking across Lethertor to Sheeps- 
 tor, is strikingly wild and grand. 
 
 Proceeding again from Two 
 Bridges, the road passes between N. 
 Hessary Tor and Great Mis Tor to 
 
 Merrivale Bridge, another moorland 
 hamlet on the river Walkham. Here 
 (J- m. E.), rt. and 1. of the road, is an 
 important group of primitive remains 
 consisting of circles, stone avenues, 
 cromlechs , a rock pillar, and founda- 
 tions of a village extending a mile 
 along the hillside ; the whole over- 
 looked by the huge pile of Mis Tor. 
 44 Avenues,” says Mr. Rowe, 44 are 
 the characteristic features.” Two 
 run E. and W. for distances of 800 
 and 1143 ft. ; their courses are 
 parallel, and they are about 100 
 yards apart. The real meaning or 
 use of these stone avenues is quite 
 uncertain, but it seems most pro- 
 bable that, as they are connected 
 generally with cairns and circles 
 containing kistvaens, their object 
 was the due celebration of certain 
 sepulchral rites, which, at the ceme- 
 teries attached to settlements, might 
 be frequently repeated. This, how- 
 ever, is but a guess ; and the theory 
 which has been propounded by Mr. 
 Fergusson ( 4 Rude Stone Monu- 
 ments,’ London, 1872), that such 
 avenues are memorials of great 
 battles, and represent the lines of 
 opposing armies, or of that which 
 was victorious, is capable of no 
 better proof. Indeed the great num- 
 l 2 
 
220 Route 13 . — Moreton Hampstead to Prince Town . Sect. I. 
 
 ber of such avenues found on Dart- 
 moor alone, renders it more than 
 doubtful. (See Introd .) The Dart- 
 moor tradition bears that they were 
 erected when wolves haunted the 
 valleys, and winged serpents the 
 hills. (See Introd .) The longest 
 at Merrivale (on the N.), is con- 
 nected with 3 circles , 1 at each 
 end and 1 in the centre. The 
 shortest (on the S.) passes a circle 
 midway, and is 100 yards N. of 
 another circle of 10 stones, 67 ft. 
 in diam., and a rock pillar , 12 ft. 
 high. Near the avenues stand the 
 supporting stones of a cromlech , the 
 quoit of which is dislodged, and 
 measures about 10 ft. by 5 ft. N.E. 
 by N. of the avenues is a pound 
 175 ft. in diam., the wall formed 
 chiefly of upright stones; and 30 
 ft. from this pound the reputed re- 
 mains of another cromlech. The hut 
 circles are numerous and in good 
 preservation, and, according to a 
 tradition, were used as a market 
 when the plague raged at Tavi- 
 stock in the year 1625, the country- 
 people and the inhabitants of the 
 town in turn depositing in them 
 provisions and money. To this day 
 they are known by the name of 
 the Potato Market (for a similar 
 reason a boulder on Cotherston 
 Moor, in the valley of the Tees, 
 has been called the Butter Stone 
 since 1636). And here, before leav- 
 ing Dartmoor, it may be proper to 
 add a few words to what has been 
 already written respecting the date 
 of these ruinous habitations, which 
 are scattered over the district. That 
 many are of British origin cannot be 
 doubted — immediately connected, as 
 they are, with sepulchral and other 
 remains. (For some general remarks 
 on these, see Introd.) But Dartmoor 
 has been thickly peopled with a min- 
 ing population at a comparatively 
 recent period. Some thousands were 
 housed on it in Elizabeth’s time ; and 
 we would venture to hint — in spite of 
 the wrathful eyes of Celtic antiqua- 
 
 ries— that some of the rude founda- 
 tions of buildings may be of later 
 date than has been suspected. In two 
 or three cases (on Holne Moor, for 
 example) remains of square walls 
 are intermixed with those of circular 
 huts; and, universally, the largest 
 villages are found near the abandoned 
 stream-works. We must, however, 
 leave this matter to be decided by 
 the traveller himself ; only cautioning 
 him to use his own judgment, and 
 not to be led away by mere assertion, 
 however pleasing to the imagination. 
 
 S. of Merrivale Bridge, at the 
 distance of 1 m., is a remarkable 
 rock called Vixen Tor , after the fe- 
 male fox. It is well worth a visit, 
 as it commands in perspective the 
 valley of the Walkham, whose irregular 
 slopes present a charming landscape 
 of mingled wildness and cultivation, 
 of rock and of wood, of furze-brake 
 and corn-field. The tor consists of 3 
 distinct piles, which rise from an ex- 
 tensive declivity to a height of 100 ft., 
 and wdien viewed from different sides 
 present some curious chance resem- 
 blances. On the road from Tavi- 
 stock the likeness to an Egyptian 
 Sphinx is very remarkable ; from 
 a point to the S.E. the granite courses 
 of the tor resemble the walls of a 
 ruinous castle beetling over the river. 
 Should you have time to make a cir- 
 cuit (on foot) to Tavistock, leave the 
 high road at Merrivale Bridge, and 
 take the Walkham as guide to the 
 vale of the Tavy. The stream will 
 prove a lively companion, and will 
 lead you among beautiful scenes, par- 
 ticularly at Ward and Huckworthy 
 bridges. 
 
 From Merrivale Bridge the road 
 passes along the flank of CocPs Tor 
 (a tor of trap, alt. 1472 ft.), and soon 
 reaches the edge of the moor, 5 m. 
 from Two Bridges, when the far-cele- 
 brated Vale of the Tavy opens suddenly 
 to view, and the traveller descends 
 rapidly to 
 
Devonshire. Ponte 13 . — Cranmere Pool. 
 
 8 m. Tavistock. (Inns : Bedford 
 Hotel; Queen’s Head.) (Rte. 14.) 
 
 The following journal of a walk 
 from Tavistock by Cranmere Pool 
 to Okehampton may be useful to 
 pedestrians taking the same course. 
 
 We followed the Okehampton road 
 for about 6 m., and then struck di- 
 rectly across the moor, towards the 
 position of Cranmere Pool, as well 
 as we could conjecture it from the 
 Ordnance Map: our companions a 
 couple of moormen, whom we picked 
 up on the road, both of whom pro- 
 fessed much familiarity with the 
 country, but neither had ever been 
 able to find the famous Pool, to which 
 a kind of traditional mystery seems 
 attached. Passed a solitary moor- 
 land farm called Bedford , situated on 
 a brook running S., which here fol- 
 lows the line of junction of the 
 altered rocks with the granite, on 
 which latter we now emerged. Leav- 
 ing these last enclosures, we made 
 for Hare Tor, a very bold pile of 
 rocks, the summit of which we left a 
 little to the 1. Hence the narrow 
 gorge of Tavy Cleave is visible, and 
 beyond it (S.E., in the direction of 
 Cut Hill) the solitary tree called 
 Watern Oak ; to the S.W. a wide 
 view over the Tavistock country and 
 Cornwall ; thence descended to Battle 
 Brook , which we crossed a little above 
 its junction with the Tavy, and thence 
 across Amicombe Hill (2000 ft., De 
 la Beche), making our landmark the 
 height called Great Kneeset by the 
 moormen, and in the Ordnance Map ; 
 a very high point, reached by a gra- 
 dual rise over ground becoming more 
 and more boggy and broken. Great 
 Kneeset itself is crowned with the 
 remains of a vallum of turf and loose 
 stones. Hence a fine but exceedingly 
 desolate view over the central region 
 of the moor: Yes Tor rising very 
 boldly to the N.W., yet seeming 
 equalled in elevation by some of the 
 dark undulations nearer us ; the only 
 
 221 
 
 link with the cultivated world, a 
 glimpse far down the valley of the 
 West Okement. At this point the 
 difficulty of the search began : our 
 moormen knowing nothing about the 
 matter, we followed the indication of 
 the Ordnance Map, and proceeded E., 
 keeping Great Kneeset and Links Tor 
 as nearly as possible in a line behind 
 us. We floundered through a mile or 
 more of the worst bog over which it 
 has been our lot to travel : heathy 
 hummocky land, seamed in every di- 
 rection with rents like crevasses , 5 or 
 6 ft. deep, filled with black soil, to 
 be jumped across if possible, if not, 
 waded through, avoiding the soft and 
 dangerous parts. After this bad 
 travelling we discovered the object 
 of our search, the black bed of a pool 
 of about 2 or 3 acres in extent, almost 
 destitute of water, while from its 
 western extremity oozed the highest 
 spring of the West Okement; a spot 
 remarkable for nothing but the sin- 
 gular desolation and lifelessness of its 
 vicinity. The Mere is the locality of 
 an often-repeated legend : a spirit 
 (Bingie by name) is confined in it by 
 a conjurer, and condemned' to the 
 hopeless task of draining it with an 
 oat-sieve ; but one day Bingie found 
 a sheepskin on the moor, which he 
 spread across the bottom of his oat- 
 sieve, baled out the water, and drowned 
 Okehampton town. Hence N.E. 
 across the broad morassy plateau, 
 keeping Yes Tor a little to the 1. by 
 way of guide ; a round hill to our E, 
 (Newlake?) appears to the eye as 
 perhaps the highest point of the moor 
 (only 1925 ft., however, according to 
 De la Beche). The broken bog is on 
 this side a little less extensive, and 
 more traversable than on the other. 
 The abrupt peak of Steeperton Tor , 
 and the well-known form of Cawsand 
 Beacon beyond it, were soon visible 
 to the N.E., and the latter became 
 our landmark. Crossed the Taw a 
 few hundred yards from its source, 
 which is not in Cranmere Pool ac- 
 cording to the common story, nor 
 
222 
 
 Sect I. 
 
 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston. 
 
 even in the morass around it, but in 
 a well-defined little amphitheatre of 
 heathy slopes, on the opposite side of 
 which rises the Dart. Hence across 
 difficult and fatiguing ground, pass- 
 ing another brook in a marshy bot- 
 tom, to Wild Tor or Wills Tor , a 
 very conspicuous pile of castellated 
 rocks. Near Wild Tor we struck a 
 cart-track, used by the South Zeal* 
 folks to convey turf, which we fol- 
 lowed for 5 or 6 m. across the eastern 
 shoulder of Cawsand to South Zeal , 
 immediately adjoining the northern- 
 most edge of the moor. Time, from 
 the point where we left the Tavistock 
 and Okehampton road to South Zeal, 
 about 6 hrs., stoppages included. 
 
 ROUTE 14. 
 
 PLYMOUTH TO TAVISTOCK AND 
 LAUNCESTON. (SOUTH DEVON AND 
 TAVISTOCK, AND TAVISTOCK AND 
 LAUNCESTON RAILWAYS.) 
 
 This line was opened as far as 
 Tavistock in 1859, and to Launces- 
 ton in 1865. It is worked by the 
 South Devon Railway Company, from 
 whose main line it branches off at 
 Laira. The distance from Plymouth 
 to Tavistock is 16 J m. ; from Ply- 
 mouth to Launceston, 35j m. If the 
 tourist be not a good pedestrian he 
 had better drive from Plymouth to 
 Bickleigh, Shaugh, and the other 
 points of interest mentioned below. 
 
 He will not find a conveyance at 
 any of the stations between Ply- 
 mouth and Tavistock. But the 
 country to be traversed is one to 
 delight all sturdy walkers. 
 
 Following the line of the S. Devon 
 rly. and crossing the Laira, the 
 Tavistock rly. turns 1. and reaches 
 the station at 
 
 4 m. Marsh Mills , on the turnpike 
 road between Plymouth and Plymp- 
 ton. Hence it follows the 1. bank of 
 the Plym river as far as Plymbridge ; 
 here it crosses the river, passes 
 through Cann slate-quarry (see post), 
 and proceeds through Bickleigh Vale 
 to 
 
 7f m. Bickleigh Stat . The ch. 
 
 is 1 m. rt. 
 
 From Bickleigh Bridge may be 
 visited — Bickleigh Vale ; Shaugh 
 Bridge ; the village of Shaugh ; the 
 valley of the Plym or Cad, at least 
 as high as Cadaford bridge ; the 
 Dewerstone ; and the interesting 
 British (or primitive) antiquities at 
 Trowlesworthy. Meavy and Sheeps- 
 tor may also be reached from this 
 station ; but are perhaps more readily 
 accessible from the next station — that 
 at Horrabridge. 
 
 (a) The seclusion of Bickleigh Vale 
 (it is only open to the public on Mon- 
 days, Wednesdays , and Saturdays) 
 
 has been greatly injured by the for- 
 mation of the rly., but the scenery 
 is still wild and romantic. It may 
 be reached either from the stat. at 
 Bickleigh (the second after leaving 
 Plymouth), or by ascending the 
 shore of the Laira to its termina- 
 tion at Longbridge , and thence pro- 
 ceeding by road or rail (by walking 
 along the latter — the Plymouth and 
 Dartmoor Tramway, not the Tavi- 
 stock rly. — which is allowed) to 
 
 Plym Bridge (about 3 m. from 
 Plymouth), where the Vale of Bick- 
 leigh commences. [The Plymouth 
 and Dartmoor tramway, set on foot 
 by Sir Thos. Tyrwhitt as a horse- 
 
223 
 
 Devonshire. Route 14 .—Plym 
 
 rly. between the Dartmoor prisons 
 and Crabtree, was begun in 1819; 
 23 m. were opened in 1823. It 
 winds through some very picturesque 
 scenery, and now conveys granite 
 from the Hessary tor quarries, but is 
 otherwise of little service. Sir Thos. 
 Tyrwhitt had laid the first stone of 
 the prisons in 1806. (rt. of Plym 
 bridge lies the rly. to the Leemoor 
 clay-works (see post), and the Ply- 
 mouth and Tavistock rly.)] This 
 is a delightful spot, in spite of the 
 new lines of rly. ; and the bridge is a 
 mossy old structure, partly hid by 
 foliage, and based among the many- 
 coloured pebbles of a rapid stream. 
 Adjoining it are the ruined arch of 
 a wayside chapel, with a niche for 
 the figure of a saint (the chapel 
 was connected with the priory 
 of Plympton) ; — a rustic cottage, 
 mantled with the rose and wood- 
 bine ; and a narrow lane which 
 climbs a hill towards Plympton. 
 You should ascend this hill for ^ 
 m. to enjoy a very fine bird's- 
 eye view of Plymouth Sound, the 
 estuary of the Laira, and Mount 
 Edgcumbe. The best point of view 
 is occupied by Boringdon House, now 
 a farmhouse, but anciently the resi- 
 dence of the Parkers, at present seated 
 at Sal tram and enjoying the earldom 
 of Morley. Boringdon was built 
 about the middle of the 1 4th centy. ; 
 but there are few remains of the old 
 house. The hall, however (of much 
 later date), is still to be seen, and is 
 a noble room, with a chimney-piece, 
 ornamented with figures emblemati- 
 cal of Peace and Plenty, supporting 
 the royal arms (Charles I.), and the 
 date 1640. The views on each side 
 of the lane are of a character to 
 delight the enthusiast for scenery. 
 On one side is the fine view over 
 the Laira and Plymouth Sound ; on 
 the other a rude group of hills and 
 highland woods, wild and rough, and 
 perhaps darkened by clouds. From 
 Plym Bridge it may be best to follow 
 the path by the river-side as high as 
 
 Bridge — Bichleigh. 
 
 Cann Quarry, an excavation in 
 dark-blue slate, finely contrasted by 
 foliage, where the stone is drawn 
 from the quarry and the drainage 
 effected by water-machinery. Just 
 beyond it is the Weir-head, in the 
 shape of a crescent ; and at that spot 
 the wanderer will plunge into the 
 shady recesses of the wood, and 
 pursue his way around the elbow of 
 many a mossy rock, where he may 
 obtain glimpses of rare nooks and 
 seclusions, to 
 
 Bichleigh Bridge (about 3 m. N. of 
 Plym Bridge), from which the village 
 of Bichleigh (with an Inn, the Maris- 
 to we Arms) is about 1 m. distant to the 
 1. A beautiful picture is framed by 
 the ivy-clad arch of the bridge ; and 
 another fine prospect will greet the 
 traveller over a gate to the rt., 
 where the road turns uphill to- 
 wards the village. In Bickleigh 
 the Church (Perp., rebuilt by Sir Ralph 
 Lopes, the patron) contains the 
 tomb, helmet, and gauntlet of Sir 
 Nicholas Slanning, with effigies of 
 himself and his wife. His melan- 
 choly death forms the catastrophe of 
 Mrs. Bray’s novel of 4 Fitz of Fitz- 
 ford.’ He was killed in a duel (1590) 
 by Sir John Fitz, who was pardoned 
 by Queen Elizabeth ; but soon after- 
 wards killed another man in a duel, 
 and on his way to London to sue for 
 a second pardon, hearing a noise at 
 night in his hostelry, at Salisbury, 
 he concluded that officers had ar- 
 rived to arrest him, and killed him- 
 self with his own sword. Hence 
 the inscription on the tomb runs : — 
 
 “Idem casdis erat nostrae simul auctor et 
 ultor 
 
 Trux homicida mei, mox homicida sui, 
 Quemque in me primum, mox in se con- 
 didit ensis, 
 
 0 nostrum summi Judicis arbitrium !” 
 
 The story is told in a very rare pam- 
 phlet, entitled 4 The Bloudie Booke, 
 or the Tragicall and Desperate End 
 of Sir John Fitz. London, 1605/ 
 The tomb was elaborately adorned 
 
224 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston . 
 
 with arabesques and figures in plaster, 
 among which was a skeleton at- 
 tacking a very stout personage, and 
 a label with the words — 
 
 “ Stout as thou art, 
 
 I will pierce thy heart.” 
 
 But when removed for the “ restora- 
 tion,” all this fell to pieces. A 
 descendant of this Slanning was one 
 of those Boyalist warriors who were 
 called “ the four wheels of Charles’s 
 wain” — 
 
 “ Grenville, Godolphin, Trevannion, Slanning 
 slain.” 
 
 The Slannings became proprietors 
 of Bickleigh after the dissolution. 
 The manor was one of those granted 
 to Buckland Abbey by the Countess 
 Amicia. 
 
 By the churchyard wall is a per- 
 fect Cross , with a modern shaft. The 
 ch. tower is ancient, and deserves 
 notice ; the thin butresses are proba- 
 bly later additions. A church-path 
 leads across the fields to the entrance 
 of the Valley of the Cad at 
 
 (6) Shaugh Bridge. This is a singu- 
 larly wild and romantic spot, where 
 the Mew and the Plym unite their 
 noisy streams among antique oaks 
 and rocks. It highly deserves the 
 attention of artists. In front rises 
 the wood-covered hill f the Dewer- 
 stone, which descends in broken 
 rocks to the bed of the river ; the 
 opposite bank of which, rock-strewn, 
 stretches upward to the village of 
 Shaugh. Below the bridge are the 
 remains of Grenofen, the ancient 
 residence of the Slannings. Tra- 
 dition has much to tell of the state 
 in which this family lived here ; and 
 the mossy barn with its gables, the 
 rough hillside, and glittering river, 
 may well call pencil and sketch- 
 book into requisition. Stepping 
 stones crossing the river lead to a 
 path which winds upward to the 
 summit of the Dewerstone. Above 
 the bridge tower the crags which 
 
 guard the entrance to the solitary 
 glen; and a steep road, threading 
 a labyrinth of rocks, winds up the 
 neighbouring hill to the (c) village of 
 Shaugh Prior , where granite cottages 
 and granite boulders stand elbowing 
 each other. Here there is a small 
 Inn (the Thorn Tree), adapted to 
 the wants of an angler or pedes- 
 trian, and a venerable weather-beaten 
 ch. The churchyard contains among 
 its mournful memorials one grand old 
 tomb, in which, as the story goes, lie 
 the remains of two sisters, such twins 
 in affection that the decease of the 
 one was the deathblow of the other. 
 
 “ They grew together, 
 
 Two lovely berries moulded on one stem ; 
 
 So, with two seeming bodies, but one heart.” 
 
 This is emblematically told by sculp- 
 ture representing the union of 2 
 hearts. Shaw ( sceacga . A.-S. rough 
 coppice) was given by Boger de 
 Novant to the Priory of Plympton, 
 hence its distinctive name. 100 
 yds. E. of the ch., in a hedge front- 
 ing the end of the lane, is the rem- 
 nant of a cross. On all sides the 
 ground is cumbered by rocks, and 
 the adjacent {d) Valley of the Cad 
 presents one of the wildest scenes 
 imaginable. (There is some doubt 
 as to the antiquity of the name 
 “ Cad,” generally at present applied 
 to the Plym above Shaugh. See 
 post.) It is literally covered with 
 granite, and the torrent comes 
 roaring down the glen as though 
 frenzied by the obstruction. The 
 traveller may explore it with the 
 greatest advantage (from a picturesque 
 point of view) by descending the 1. 
 bank of the stream from Cadaford 
 Bridge (near which is seen a vast 
 sweep of the moor, and Brent Tor in 
 the distance). But although this 
 feat may be accomplished, it is not 
 to be undertaken without due con- 
 sideration. There is not even the 
 ghost of a path ; and the brake is 
 thick and tangled. By this rough 
 course, however, we obtain the best 
 
Devonshire. Route 14 . — Dewerstone — Trowlesworthy Tor . 225 
 
 view of the whimsical rock which 
 rises from the rt. bank in the shape 
 of a pillar, surmounted by a rude 
 capital, and of the mighty (e) Dewer- 
 stone (now, alas! converted into a 
 quarry,— a result of the extension of 
 the iron way into these wild districts) 
 a cliff of most elegant proportions and 
 beautiful tints, seamed in the manner 
 peculiar to granite, and apparently 
 bound together by bands of ivy. 
 The summit of this rock was often 
 the resort of a poet whose name will 
 be always associated with the hills of 
 his favourite Dartmoor, and “ on one 
 of the fiat blocks on the ground above 
 the Dewerstone — at the front, as it 
 were, of the temple where he so often 
 worshipped — is engraved the name 
 of ‘ Carrington ,’ with the date of his 
 death.” Visitors are recommended, 
 in the introduction to his poem of 
 £ Dartmoor,’ to climb to the summit 
 of this cliff ; for “ he who has suffi- 
 cient nerve to gaze from the Dewer- 
 stone into the frightful depth beneath, 
 will be amply remunerated for the 
 trouble which may be experienced in 
 ascending. The rocks immediately 
 beneath the view seem as if they had 
 been struck at once by a thousand 
 thunderbolts, and appear only pre- 
 vented from bursting asunder by 
 chains of ivy. A few wild flowers 
 are sprinkled about in the crevices of 
 the cliff, tufts of broom wave like 
 golden banners in the passing breeze, 
 and these, with here and there a 
 mountain ash clinging half-way down 
 the precipice, impart a wild animation 
 to the spot.” The hill, as has been 
 said, may be climbed by a path 
 through the coppice, which opens 
 opposite Shaugh bridge.) Super- 
 stition has connected a fantastic 
 legend with the Dewerstone. In a 
 deep snow, it is said, the traces of 
 a cloven hoof and naked human foot 
 were found ascending to the highest 
 summit ; and on stormy winter 
 nights the peasant has heard the 
 “ whish-hounds” sweeping through 
 the rocky valley, with cry of dogs, 
 
 winding of horns, and “ hoofs 
 thick-beating on the hollow hill.” 
 Their unearthly “ master ” has been 
 sometimes visible — a tall swart figure 
 with a hunting-pole. Dewerstone is 
 possibly “Tiwes-stan,” the rock of Tiw , 
 the Saxon deity from whom we derive 
 the name of Tuesday. The laborious 
 descent of the valley is by no means 
 necessary for a view of the Dewer- 
 stone, but the rocky features of the 
 glen are seen to advantage by such a 
 course. The granite earn of Shaugh 
 Beacon rises close to the ch., and the 
 only act incumbent on the traveller 
 is to cross over this eminence to the 
 Valley of the Cad. A short distance 
 below it he may, perchance, pass in 
 view of some blocks of stone so 
 whimsically arranged as to resemble 
 the figure of a huge warrior stretched 
 at length on the hillside. On the 
 moor, about 2 m. from Shaugh, on the 
 road to Ivy Bridge, those curious in 
 minerals will find the Lee Moor china- 
 clay works , from which a rly. descends 
 to join the S. Devon line at Long- 
 bridge. The Kaolin or China clay 
 here is of high quality; and .from 
 the siliceous refuse, bricks are 
 manufactured on a large scale, and 
 sent to all parts of Europe for use 
 in metallurgical gas works, and 
 other establishments where high 
 temperatures are employed. N. of 
 these works is a mutilated granite 
 cross ; and between them and 
 Shaugh an entrenchment commonly 
 called the B,oman Camp. It is a 
 rectangular enclosure formed by a 
 lofty mound of earth thrown up from 
 the inside , and £ was therefore more 
 probably a place of meeting or diver- 
 sion than a camp. 
 
 There are some other antiquities in 
 the neighbourhood of Shaugh (/). 
 About 1 m. E. of Cadaford Bridge, 
 on the western slope of Trowlesworthy 
 Tor (which is of red granite) is a 
 very remarkable walled enclosure, 
 differing from any other hitherto 
 observed on the moor. It is nearly 
 
226 
 
 Sect. I 
 
 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston * 
 
 circular, and measures 150 paces 
 each way. The walls are unbroken 
 throughout the entire circuit, except 
 at 2 entrances, facing respectively 
 N. and S. These entrances are de- 
 fended in a most unusual way. In 
 the opening of that N. are 4 walls, 
 
 2 extending within the enclosure 
 and 2 without, arranged in star 
 fashion. The outer walls extend for 
 about 24 ft. each, diminishing gradu- 
 ally. Between these walls and the 
 extremities of those of the enclosure 
 there is but space enough for one 
 person at a time to pass in or out. 
 The southern entrance is defended 
 in a somewhat different manner, but 
 also so as to leave space for the pass- 
 ing of but one person at a time. 
 Close within this entrance is a large 
 hut circle, for which the ground 
 seems to have been built up to a 
 level. On the inner side of the wall 
 defending the entrance, is the ruin 
 of what seems to have been a square 
 chamber, perhaps for a sentinel. 
 From this same tor, near the ridge, 
 a wall about 15 ft. thick extends to 
 near the banks of the Plym. About 
 £ m. from the tor there is an opening 
 in the wall, narrowed by two walls 
 on either side. These walls are 
 curved, so as to widen the entrance 
 at the further distance from the 
 main wall. — There are 2 stone 
 avenues on the W. slope of Trowles- 
 worthy Tor: one terminating in a 
 circle of 8 stones, the other also 
 having apparently ended in a circle, 
 of which only one or two stones 
 remain. — Between Trowlesworthy 
 and Shavercombe Head there is a 
 dismantled cromlech or large stone 
 “ kist ;” and about midway between 
 the sources of the Plym and Eyles- 
 burrow (which is one of the marks 
 indicating the boundary of the Royal 
 forest) is a single “ stone row,” with 
 a circle at the N. end in which is a 
 cairn. There is another cairn at 
 about 100 yds. from the opposite 
 end, part of which has been carried 
 away. The stones at the N. end 
 
 are of unusual height — the first 2 
 about 10 ft. These remains have 
 been described (the Trowlesworthy 
 enclosure and the Eylesburrow stones 
 for the first time) by Mr. C. Spence 
 Bate, in a paper on the ‘ Prehistoric 
 Antiquities of Dartmoor,’ published 
 in the Transactions of the Devon- 
 shire Association for 1871. They 
 are easily visited from Plymouth, 
 and well illustrate the character of 
 the primitive stone monuments in 
 the district. 
 
 The stream of the Cad, says Mr. 
 Rowe (Peramb. of Dartmoor), “is 
 erroneously so called, as its source 
 has from time immemorial been 
 known as Plym Head . Cadaford 
 does not necessarily mean ford of the 
 Cad. Cad is a battle-field. Hence 
 it may be conjectured on more satis- 
 factory grounds that this bridge may 
 have been so designated from some 
 unrecorded conflict on the neighbour- 
 ing moors.” It must be admitted, 
 however, that Cad, as the name of a 
 river, occurs in many Celtic districts, 
 and that its apparent recurrence at 
 the mouth of the Laira (Catfdown 
 and the Catfwater) would seem to 
 prove that it was the old British name. 
 Plym is Saxon. 
 
 The source of the Plym is in a 
 swampy table-land, from which the 
 Yealm and the Erme also rise, at 
 no great distance apart. Farther N. 
 in the highest part of this plateau, 
 rises the Avon, flowing by Brent. 
 
 Leaving [Bickleigh, the rly. con- 
 tinues over high ground, with mag- 
 nificent views rt. to 
 
 12 J m. Horr abridge stat., first 
 passing through a long tunnel under 
 Roborough down. From this stat. ! 
 Buckland Abbey (see post , Exc. from 
 Tavistock) lies 3 m. 1. The village 
 of Horrabridge, on the Walkham 
 river, lies below the stat. rt.) From 
 Horrabridge the tourist may make 
 his way, through very pleasant 
 scenery, to Meavy and Sheepstor . 
 These may be reached from Shaugh 
 
Devonshire. Route 14 . — Meavy —Sheepstor. 227 
 
 either by following up the stream 
 of the Mew or Meavy river to Hoo 
 Meavy bridge, or over the moor. 
 But the villages are nearer to Horra- 
 bridge stat. 
 
 In the approach to Meavy the 
 granite hill of Sheepstor is the en- 
 grossing object, and when in sunshine 
 quite spectral in its appearance, its 
 light aerial tints being contrasted by 
 the woods and shaded verdure of the 
 foreground. The valley is a wild ro- 
 mantic scene: The stream sings and 
 dances through it, and from among 
 the mosses and the stones rises 
 Polypodium phegopteris (beech fern), 
 which has been likened to the figure 
 of a mendicant imploring charity 
 with outstretched arms. At Meavy 
 there is an inn, favourite head-quar- 
 ters with the angler, and the Meavy 
 Oak , an old giant of the vegetable 
 world, 27 ft. in circumf., but bald at 
 the top, and with a trunk so decayed 
 as to form an archway through which 
 a person may walk erect. It is sup- 
 posed to have been standing here in 
 the time of King John, and is cer- 
 tainly 2 or 3 centuries older than 
 the church in front of which it rises. 
 “ The village chronicles relate that 
 9 persons once dined within the 
 hollow trunk, where a peat stack 
 may now be frequently seen, piled 
 up as winter fuel.” In the village 
 is the fragment of a granite cross ; 
 and a complete one remains at Mer- 
 chant’s bridge, | m. from Meavy. 
 The granite churches of Meavy 
 and Sheepstor (both Perp.) are of 
 small architectural interest, but their 
 weather-stained walls and towers 
 are in fine keeping with the wild 
 scenery by which they are sur- 
 rounded. At the end of the village 
 turn to the bridge, near which, up 
 the road, is a granite cross, about 9 ft. 
 high, in good, preservation. A lane 
 leads from this spot to a farmhouse, 
 called Knolle , bearing on its front 
 the date 1610, and situated at the 
 entrance to a romantic glen, in which 
 there is a cascade. A path traverses 
 
 the neighbouring hill to the rude vil- 
 lage of 
 
 Sheepstor, which consists of a few 
 cottages (pop. 98) clustered round an 
 ancient granite ch. Sheepstor is a 
 chapelry attached to Bickleigh, and, 
 like that manor, belonged anciently 
 to Buckland Abbey. The little Perp. 
 ch. was restored in 1862. It con- 
 tains an old slate tablet in memory 
 of the Elford family; and in the 
 churchyard, under a large beech- 
 tree, is the tomb of Sir James 
 Brooke, Kajah of Sarawak. The 
 monument, of red Aberdeen granite 
 (the choice is somewhat insulting to 
 the finely -grained granites of Dart- 
 moor, close at hand), was erected by 
 his nephew, the present (1872) Bajah. 
 Sir James Brooke died at Burrator 
 (close to the village) in 1868, and 
 was born, as the inscription states, 
 at Bandel, in Bengal. He had lived 
 for some years before his death at 
 Burrator, displaying as much liber- 
 ality, and being as much loved and 
 valued, in his remote Devonshire 
 home, as in the colony which he 
 formed, and for which he did so 
 much. Burrator is but a small house 
 and estate. In a glen on the pro- 
 perty there is a very beautiful 
 waterfall, which strangers are al- 
 lowed to visit. 
 
 The old priest’s house in the village 
 of Sheepstor is of the 1 5th centy. and 
 curious. At the back of the village 
 rises the eminence of Sheepstor (or 
 Shittistor, as in old records), the haunt 
 of the Devonshire fairies, the Piskies 
 or Pixies, and where, certainly, the 
 crevices in the huge mass of granite, 
 which at the eastern end is precipitous 
 and so fissured (like the rocks of the 
 Cad) as to resemble basaltic co- 
 lumns, would afford rare seclusion 
 and plenty of accommodation for such 
 shy and tiny folk. The cavity which 
 is said to be their favourite haunt is 
 called the Pixies’ house, and is formed 
 by two rocks resting in a slanting posi- 
 tion against the vertical side of the tor. 
 The peasantry who venture to visit it 
 
228 
 
 Route 18 . — Plymouth to Launceston. Sect. 1. 
 
 still drop a pin as an offering to the I 
 pixy ; and to this day it is considered 
 a “critical” (this is the word used on 
 the spot) place for children to enter 
 after sunset. The pixies are de- 
 scribed as a race “ invisibly small ; ” 
 yet, in the vulgar belief, they may be 
 heard on dark nights riding the horses 
 of the neighbouring farmers, and 
 “ pounding their cider” within this 
 cavern. According to Polwhele, the 
 Pixies’ house was selected as a hiding- 
 place by one of the Elford family, 
 who here successfully concealed him- 
 self from Cromwell’s troopers, and 
 employed his leisure time in painting 
 on the walls. From the summit of 
 the hill a wild and beautiful prospect 
 is unfolded. Close at hand rises a 
 granitic cone, Lethertor ( Llethr ? = a 
 steep slope. Corn.) by name, and per- 
 haps the most elegantly formed of all 
 the Dartmoor tors, but seen to most 
 advantage from the half-reclaimed 
 valley on the N. side of Sheepstor. 
 (If bound to Prince Town, the tra- 
 veller may steer direct from Sheeps- 
 tor for its conspicuous crest; and 
 if benighted on the moor, may take 
 the pole-star for his guide. About 1 
 m. N. upon elevated ground, on the 
 rt. side of the valley which extends 
 towards Prince Town, is Clacywell 
 or Classenwell Pool , a small pond of 
 water, long believed to be unfathom- 
 able. It is said that no bottom has 
 been found in it with the ch. bell- 
 ropes of Walkhampton, which tied 
 together made a line of 90 fathoms. 
 However, in 1844, when the Ply- 
 mouth leet, which runs near it, was 
 at a low ebb, the water was pumped 
 in large quantities from this natural 
 reservoir, and its depth ascertained. 
 It probably occupies the shaft of an 
 old mine, as the moor in its vicinity 
 is much furrowed. Sheepstor is tra- 
 ditionally rich in precious minerals, 
 said to have been stored here by the 
 pixies, who, it would appear, are 
 miserly in their habits : — 
 
 ** Little pixy, fair and slim, 
 
 Without a rag to cover him.” 
 
 Grains of gold are occasionally found 
 in the streams below the hill. Long- 
 stone , in this neighbourhood, was the 
 ancient seat of the Elfords. 
 
 [About 3 m. E. of Sheepstor rises 
 the Plym, at Plym Head , in a most 
 desolate region ; and i m. W. of this 
 source, in Langcombe Bottom, on the 
 W. bank of a feeder to the Plym, is 
 a kistvaen of more than common in- 
 terest, as it stands by itself in the 
 midst of wild and lonely hills. The 
 cover has fallen, but the old tomb is 
 otherwise uninjured, and some of the 
 stones which enclose it in a circle are 
 still erect.] 
 
 From Horr abridge Stat. there is a 
 beautiful view of the Walkham river 
 valley. Opposite winds the turnpike- 
 road to Tavistock, rt. Grimstone (Mrs. 
 Collier), and the church and village 
 of Walkhampton . The ch., which 
 stands finely on the summit of a 
 hill, has a very elegant Perp. tower, 
 with a fine crest of pinnacles. (It 
 is best seen from Dowsland Barn, 
 where Staple tor and Cocks tor come 
 in for background.) Walkhampton 
 formed part of the original grant to 
 Buckland Abbey, at its foundation by 
 Amicia, Countess of Devon (1278). 
 
 A long and lofty timber viaduct 
 carries the line across the Walkham 
 river and valley. Passing Grenofen 
 House ( — Deacon, Esq.) 1., and the 
 pretty village of Whitchurch rt., the 
 traveller comes in sight of 
 
 16 \ m. Tavistock . The stat. is ele- 
 vated considerably above the town, 
 which lies in a valley 1. 
 
 Tavistock {Inns: Bedford Hotel, 
 best; Queen’s Head; — population, 
 8857) lies in a trough of the hills, 
 on the banks of the Tavy, which 
 is here expanded to a considerable 
 width, but retains its rocky channel, 
 and as much of its moorland trans- 
 parency as the neighbouring mines 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 14 . — Tavistock. 
 
 229 
 
 will permit, whilst the neighbouring 
 woods and fields agreeably contrast 
 with the heights of Dartmoor 
 rising at a little distance. It is 
 a place of considerable antiquity, 
 but has experienced many ups and 
 downs on the wheel of Fortune. At 
 one time its vicar had to petition the 
 parish for a pair of shoes ; at another, 
 its clothiers were wealthy and cele- 
 brated, and Tavistock kersey was 
 sought throughout the kingdom as 
 the best fabric of its kind. Its 
 inhabitants are now chiefly con- 
 nected with mines. (“ The greatest 
 part of the mineral wealth of Devon 
 is found in the carboniferous beds 
 near Tavistock. The mines rapidly 
 decrease in number in a northerly 
 direction from this place, until at 
 Ramsleigh, about the centre of the 
 northerly end of Dartmoor, the cop- 
 per ceases.” — G. W. Ormerod. Some 
 tin occurs in the neighbourhood of 
 Tavistock ; but, for the most part, 
 the mines are entirely of copper.) 
 The importance of the town was, 
 however, mainly derived from a 
 magnificent Abbey , which, dedicated 
 to the B. V. Mary and St. Rumon, 
 was founded for Benedictines, about 
 the year 960, by Ordgar, Earl or 
 “ Ealdorman ” of Devonshire, whose 
 wealth, says Master Geoffry Gaimar, 
 was so great that “ from Exeter 
 to Frome” there was not a town 
 or a city which did not call him 
 master. Fie was the father of 
 Elfrida, famous for the romantic 
 (and mythical) story connected 
 with her marriage to King Edgar. 
 The abbey was completed and en- 
 dowed by his son Ordulf. Ethel- 
 red granted Tavistock Abbey many 
 privileges, but in 997, 36 years 
 after its foundation, during the life- 
 time of the 1st abbot, it was burnt 
 by the Danes, who had ascended 
 the Tavy ; “ and all thing they met 
 they burned and slew,” says the 
 chronicle, as far as Lidford. “ And 
 Ordulf’s minster at Tavistock they 
 burned up ; and brought untold 
 
 plunder to their ships.” (A.-S. 
 Chron. s. a.) The Abbey was re- 
 built, however, with increased splen- 
 dour, under the auspices of the 2nd 
 abbot, Lyfing (Livingus), the com- 
 panion, on his Roman pilgrimage, 
 of Canute, by whom he was raised 
 to the see of Crediton, and after- 
 wards (holding both sees as a plu- 
 ralist) to that of Worcester. Lyfing 
 was buried at Tavistock, and ser- 
 vices were daily said for him by the 
 monks as for their great benefactor. 
 In the same conventual ch., and 
 probably during the Abbacy of 
 Lyfing, was buried, according to 
 William of Malmesbury, Eadwig, 
 brother of Eadmund Ironside, who, 
 banished by Canute, returned 
 secretly to England, landed and 
 died here. (See ‘Freeman’s Norm. 
 Conq.,’ i. 447, note.) Ealdred, 
 Archbishop of York at the time of 
 the Conquest, had been Abbot of 
 Tavistock. At the Dissolution, the 
 site, and nearly all the manors 
 which had belonged to the Abbey, 
 were bestowed by Hen. VIII. upon 
 John Lord Russell, whose descend- 
 ant, the Duke of Bedford, Is now 
 the owner. At that time its yearly 
 revenue amounted to upwards of 
 900?. Tavistock was the chief 
 religious house in the 2 western 
 counties ; and the wealthiest, except 
 that of the Augustinians at Plymp- 
 ton. The position of the monastery, 
 close to the river, must have been in 
 every way convenient; and William 
 of Malmesbury describes the site as 
 pleasant from the woods about it, 
 and from the streams, which 
 abounded in fish, — the trout of the 
 Tavy and its tributaries not having 
 as yet suffered from mining opera- 
 tions. Running streams of water, 
 he adds, were led through the 
 offices of the monks. The abbot 
 ruled the borough with ample au- 
 thority, being possessed of the entire 
 jurisdiction of the hundred, and 
 in the early part of the reign of Hen. 
 VIII. was raised to the dignity of a 
 
230 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston . Sect. I. 
 
 mitred Abbot, and made indepen- 
 dent of both bishop and archbishop 
 by a bull of Pope Leo X. “ The 
 great church, with its shrine of St. 
 Rumon (a Cornish bishop of whom 
 nothing is known), whose relics had 
 been the gift of Ordulph, was almost 
 equal in size and importance to the 
 cathedrals of Wells or of Exeter. . . . 
 The early abbots, like Ealdred, who 
 had offered a golden chalice at the 
 Holy Sepulchre, and brought home 
 his palm-branch from the Jordan, 
 and who afterwards, as Abp. of 
 York, crowned both Harold and 
 the Conqueror, were men of learning 
 and piety. Many of the later func- 
 tionaries caused no small scandal and 
 disturbance. Two were deposed by 
 the Bp. of Exeter . Abbot John de 
 Courtenay is severely reproved for 
 having 
 
 ‘ loved the deer to track 
 
 More than the lines and the letters black ’ — 
 
 and for the total want of discipline 
 in his convent ; and Abbot Cullyng 
 not only winked at the private sup- 
 pers of the monks in their cells, but 
 actually permitted them to flaunt 
 about the streets of Tavistock in 
 secular ‘buttoned tunics,’ and in 
 boots with pointed ‘ beaks.’ ” — Qu. 
 Rev. vol. 105. A part of the abbey 
 was destroyed by Cromwell, Earl 
 of Essex, at the Dissolution; and 
 a portion of the site is now occu- 
 pied by the Bedford Hotel, which 
 was erected as a residence by one 
 Saunders, “of barbarous memory,” 
 since he destroyed the fine old 
 Chapter-house (described by Leland 
 as circular, with 46 arches, and 36 
 niches or seats) for the purpose. 
 
 The remains of the abbey are not 
 very considerable, and, though they 
 show the extent, convey little notion 
 of the splendour of the ancient pile. 
 It is indeed, scarcely possible to 
 trace the ground plan. The existing 
 fragments consist of the N. or prin- 
 cipal gateway, with a room now used 
 as a public library; a small but 
 
 picturesque tower adjoining this 
 archway ; a porch, adorned by 4 
 lofty pinnacles, at the back of the 
 hotel and used as the larder — it is 
 said to have been the entrance to 
 the refectory, which, if this were 
 the case, occupied the site of a 
 Unitarian chapel beyond; the still- 
 house of the monks, and Betsy Grim- 
 bal’s Tower, both in the grounds of 
 the vicarage (the tower deriving its 
 name from a legend that a young 
 woman was murdered in it) ; and se- 
 veral ruinous ivied walls and arches. 
 These remains are all of Perp. date, 
 but are not very picturesque. Por- 
 tions of earlier buildings may be 
 detected worked into the walls of the 
 existing ruins. More interesting 
 than any of those already men- 
 tioned, is the beautiful fragment of 
 a tomb in the churchyard, of E. 
 Eng. character, and generally known 
 as the tomb of Ordulf. This 
 seems to be the only remaining 
 portion of the great conventual 
 ch. built by Abbot Champeau or 
 Cambell (so the names are given by 
 Oliver) towards the end of the 13th 
 century. The tomb may not im- 
 possibly have served as a memorial 
 of the founder. Tavistock Abbey 
 had, it is said — what is altogether 
 impossible — a school for the study 
 of “ Saxon ” ! This assertion seems 
 to have arisen from the name of the 
 “ Saxon school,” by which a building 
 taken down in 1736 was at that time 
 known. Unfortunately no drawing 
 exists ; and it is impossible to say 
 whether the apparent age of the 
 building, or any ancient foundation 
 connected with it, had caused it to 
 be so named. The study of so-called 
 “Saxon” before the Dissolution, 
 although it might have been prose- 
 cuted to some advantage among the 
 hills and dales of Devon, was hardly 
 patronized by the monks. The 
 Abbey, however, certainly had a 
 printing-press, which is said to have 
 been the second set up in England. 
 It was the first in the West country. 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 14 . — Tavistock . 
 
 231 
 
 A copy of Boethius, printed here 
 in 1525 by “ Thomas Rycharde, 
 monke,” is in the library of Exeter 
 Coll., Oxford. 
 
 At the breaking out of the Civil 
 War, the inhabitants of Tavistock, 
 influenced by the Earl of Bed- 
 ford and their representative Pym, 
 declared for the Parliament ; but the 
 neighbouring gentry remained true 
 to the throne, and, consequently, 
 many of their houses were besieged 
 and pillaged by the opposite party. 
 On the outskirt of the town, by the 
 side of the new Plymouth road, is 
 the interesting old gateway of Fitz - 
 ford , a mansion which was regularly 
 garrisoned for the king, but taken by 
 Lord Essex in 1644. A barn and 
 this gateway are the only remains, 
 and the oak-branch and. label orna- 
 ments of the latter refer it to the 
 reign of Hen. VII. Fitzford was 
 anciently a seat of the family of Fitz, 
 (under this gateway the duel is said 
 to have been fought in which Sir Ni- 
 cholas Slanning was killed by Fitz. 
 See ante , Bickleigh,) but belonged, 
 in 1644, to Sir Richard Grenville, 
 one of Charles’s generals in the 
 West, who possessed it in right 
 of his wife, the lady Howard, of 
 whom a curious legend is fold in 
 the town. She was the daughter 
 and heiress of Sir John Fitz, and, ac- 
 cording to the tradition, a mysterious 
 person, who, by some unknown means, 
 had disposed of 3 husbands in succes- 
 sion before she was wooed and won 
 by Sir Richard Grenville. Whatever 
 were her crimes, it is still believed 
 that she travels nightly, between the 
 hours of midnight and cockcrow, in 
 a coach of bones, and attended by a 
 bloodhound, from the gateway of 
 Fitzford to Okehampton Park. Each 
 night the hound brings back a single 
 blade of grass in his mouth. Lady 
 Howard is to continue this penance 
 until every blade of grass in the 
 park is picked. Another version of 
 the story turns the lady herself into 
 a hound, and thus makes her per- 
 [Dcv. fy Corn.'] 
 
 form a more laborious journey. In 
 1645, when Plymouth was invested 
 by the Royalists, Prince Charles paid 
 a visit to Tavistock, where he is said 
 to have been so annoyed by the in- 
 cessant wet weather, that, ever after- 
 wards, if anybody remarked that it 
 was a fine day, he would reply, that, 
 however fair it might be elsewhere, 
 he felt confident it was raining at 
 Tavistock. 
 
 The Church (St. Eustace), restored 
 1846, is a handsome building of un- 
 usual size, the aisles extending to the 
 extreme end of the chancel. It was 
 ded. by Bp. Stapledon in 1318, but 
 must have been rebuilt in the Perp. 
 period. There is a second S. aisle 
 of late date. The rest of the ch. 
 is late Perp., except the base of 
 the tower, which is Dec. The 
 piers and arches within are of granite, 
 and very plain. In the ch. remark 
 a fine Elizabethan monument, with 
 effigies, for the great lawyer Sir 
 John Glanville (1600) and his 
 wife ; monuments of the Bouchiers, 
 Earls of Bath, and families allied 
 to them; a richly carved, organ 
 case ; and an E. window by Wide- 
 ment. The tower , 106 ft. high, with 
 buttresses, battlemented parapet, and 
 pinnacles, is pierced with arches on 
 all 4 sides, so that it stands on piers. 
 It is thus a true campanile, and was 
 never joined to the ch., and its 
 completion is assigned to Abbot 
 Cullyng, a.d. 1380, the tower having 
 been begun by his predecessor. In 
 the ch. are preserved some human 
 bones of great size, found in a stone 
 coffin among the ruins of the abbey. 
 They are commonly believed (with- 
 out proof) to be those of Ordulf 
 (founder of the abbey, with his 
 father, Ordgar), of whose amazing 
 stature and prowess we have such 
 stories as the following: — “Ordulf 
 travelling towards Exeter with 
 King Edward the Confessor, to 
 whom he was related, when they 
 came to the gates of the city they 
 
232 
 
 Sect. L 
 
 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston. 
 
 found them locked and barred ; 
 and the porter, knowing nothing 
 of their coming, was absent. Upon 
 which, Ordulf, leaping from his 
 horse, took the bars in his hands, 
 and with great apparent ease broke 
 them in pieces, at the same time 
 pulling out part of the wall. Not 
 content with this, he gave a second 
 proof of his strength, for, wrenching 
 the hinges with his foot, he laid the 
 gates open.” William of Malmes- 
 bury speaks of Ordulfs extraor- 
 dinary stature, and tells us that the 
 stalwart Saxon would often, for his 
 amusement, bestride a river near his 
 residence, 10 ft. broad, and chop off 
 with his knife the heads of wild 
 animals which were brought to him. 
 
 The rooms of the Tavistock Institu- 
 tion , a literary and philosophical 
 society, are over the abbey gateway, 
 and contain a small cabinet of Devon- 
 shire minerals. The town has 2 large 
 iron-foundries. Tavistock has been 
 (1871) fixed on as the site for the 
 Kelly College , for which land has 
 been given by the D. of Bedford. 
 Admiral Kelly left by will £200,000 
 for the building and endowment of 
 a college for educating sons of naval 
 officers. The terms of the will pro- 
 vided that the college should be 
 established somewhere within certain 
 limits — between the Tamar and the 
 Taw rivers • and Tavistock is well 
 and conveniently situated for the 
 purpose. 
 
 Some eminent persons have been 
 born in Tavistock and its neighbour- 
 hood. At Crowndale (1 m. S.W.), 
 Sir Francis Drake (the house no longer 
 exists) ; at Kil worthy (N. of the town), 
 the ancient seat of the Glanville 
 family, Sir Jokn Glanville , who was 
 made serjeant in company with 2 
 other Devonshire lawyers, Dew and 
 Harris, and of G., D., and H., says 
 F uller, it was commonly reported that 
 
 ( gained ) 
 
 “ One <J spent > as much as the other two.” 
 
 1 gave j 
 
 In Tavistock, Browne , a poet con- 
 temporary with Spenser and Shak- 
 speare, and author of ‘Britannia’s 
 Pastorals,’ is generally said to have 
 been born. His works have not ob- 
 tained that celebrity which they 
 merit, replete as they are with the 
 most beautiful imagery. An epi- 
 sode of the ‘ Loves of the Walla and 
 the Tavy,’ in the Pastorals, should 
 be read after a visit to the junction 
 of the streams, and to Ina’s Coombe, 
 also celebrated by the poet (see post r 
 c ), in whose verses the local scenery 
 is pleasantly touched. To this 
 list of “worthies” who have shed 
 lustre on Tavistock may be added 
 the name of Mrs. Bray , wife of 
 the late vicar, and so well known 
 to every West country reader. She 
 has laid the scene of some of her 
 fictions at Tavistock, and presented 
 us with a clever and entertaining 
 description of 4 The Borders of the 
 Tamar and the Tavy.’ In her tales 
 of Fitz of Fitzford, Courtenay of Wal- 
 reddon , Warleigh , Henry de Pomeroy , 
 and Trelawny of Trelawne , the reader 
 is introduced to many remarkable 
 and romantic places in Devon and 
 Cornwall. 
 
 Portraits of some of the worthies 
 of Tavistock and its neighbourhood,, 
 of Sir. F. Drake, John Pym, Wm. 
 Lord Russell, Sir John Trelawny and 
 others, painted by an accomplished 
 amateur artist, Lady Arthur Pussel 
 (wife of the Member for Tavistock), 
 decorate the walls of the Town Hall. 
 
 The traveller should make Tavi- 
 stock his head-quarters for a time, as 
 there is much deserving notice in the 
 neighbourhood, and some celebrated 
 “ lions ” are within an easy distance. 
 The places of most interest to be 
 visited from Tavistock are Endsleigh 
 (post), Brent Tor , and Lidford (de- 
 scribed Rte. 6, but to be reached 
 by rly. from Tavistock), and Buck- 
 land Abbey (post). To begin, how- 
 ever, with a favourite spot on the 
 outskirt of the town — 
 
 (a) The Walk , behind the Bedford. 
 
Devonshire. Route 14 . — Tavistock: Environs . 
 
 233 
 
 The abbey wall bounds it on one 
 side, the Tavy flows merrily along a 
 rocky bed on the other, and the 
 wooded hill of St. John (which com- 
 mands a fine view) rises to some 
 height from the opposite margin of 
 the river. A path leads from the 
 Walk to the Canal , which was com- 
 pleted in 1817, at a cost of 68,000?., 
 and connects Tavistock with the 
 Tamar at Morwellham Quay. The 
 towing-path leads through some very 
 pleasant scenery, and those fond of 
 sketching will find the drawbridges 
 on the banks, in connection with the 
 distant heights of Dartmoor, well 
 adapted to their purpose. The canal 
 passes Crowndale , celebrated as the 
 birthplace of Drake, “ the old war- 
 rior,” as he is called by the country 
 people ; and more recently known 
 for a smelting establishment, now 
 abandoned. Beyond Crowndale the 
 subjacent valley unfolds a picturesque 
 scene, the Tavy entering a defile of 
 wooded hills, which are rugged with 
 rocks, and have the engine-house of 
 a mine here and there peeping from 
 the foliage. The canal soon sweeps 
 round the shoulder of a hill, and, 
 passing a deep hollow by an em- 
 bankment, is joined by a branch 
 from the mining district of the 
 Devon Great Consols (copper— for- 
 merly Euel Maria), enters a tunnel 
 which has been excavated for 1} m. 
 through the heart of a hill, and 
 thus runs underground to its ter- 
 mination on the high land above 
 Morwellham. There the little 
 iron barges shift their cargoes of 
 granite or copper-ore to trucks, which 
 are lowered by w ater-machinery down 
 a steeply inclined railroad to the 
 river-side. The head of the inclined 
 plane is situated on the skirt of a 
 wood, which, traversed by paths, 
 hangs about the beautiful crags 
 known as the 
 
 (6) Morwell Rocks. In a carriage 
 they are reached by ascending the 
 Callington road as far as the 2nd 
 
 turnpike ; turning rt. down a lane 
 leading to the old Abbey Grange 
 of Morwell. (This should be seen. 
 It is described post , d.) The paths 
 lead to the most striking points of 
 view, and suddenly open upon dizzy 
 platforms, pinnacles of the rocks, 
 which dive sheer down through the 
 brushwood to the Tamar. From 
 these points the river will be seen 
 glistening far below : the Weir-head 
 in the centre of the valley; Hail- 
 wood House (formerly Reginald 
 Trelawny, Esq., now belonging to 
 the Duchy of Cornwall), the scene 
 of Mason’s drama of ‘ Elfrida,’ to 
 the 1. (the tradition which placed 
 the death of iEthelwold at Hare- 
 wood does not seem to be very 
 ancient. The whole story is mythical, 
 but the “Warewelle” of Malmesbury 
 is doubtless Wh or well in Hants, 
 where Elfrida founded a convent) ; 
 and to the rt. the mining village of 
 Gunnislake climbing the sandy heights 
 of the Cornish shore. A path will 
 conduct you along the entire range 
 of cliffs ; at one place it passes the 
 slender water-wheel of a mine called 
 Chimney Rock, and will ultimately 
 lead you to the Callington road, 
 which descends, to cross the Tamar 
 by the picturesque structure of New 
 Bridge. The distance from Tavi- 
 stock to New Bridge is 3j m. In 
 following the canal to the tunnel, 
 and then crossing Morwell Down to 
 the rocks above the river, the road 
 is longer, but a good pedestrian may 
 easily do this and return to Tavi- 
 stock by the Callington road. 
 
 (c) There are several ancient 
 and interesting houses near Tavi- 
 stock. Kilworthy (lj m. N.), was 
 the ancient seat of the Glanvilles, 
 modernised in the reign of Geo. III., 
 but containing remains of the hall 
 which indicate its former grandeur. 
 About the house are vestiges of the 
 old style of gardening, and in “sweet 
 Ina’s Coomb,” is the Walla Brook, in- 
 teresting to all who have read in 
 
234 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston . 
 
 4 Britannia’s Pastorals’ of its love for 
 the Tavy. Near Kil worthy is Mount 
 Tavy (Mrs. Carpenter), a modem 
 house situated below Rowdon Wood , 
 which overhangs the river, and in 
 1768 was devastated by a remarkable 
 whirlwind. It cut through the wood 
 a passage of about 40 yards in width, 
 tearing up the largest oaks by the 
 roots, and carrying their branches to a 
 considerable distance, and afterwards 
 44 rolled up the vale of the Tavy into 
 the forest of Dartmoor, where it had 
 full scope for exhausting itself.” Wal- 
 reddon House (W. Courtenay, Esq. 
 2J m. S.), dates from the reign of 
 Edw. VI. Mrs. Bray remarks that 
 44 a ride through its woods is worth 
 coming miles to enjoy.” Collacombe 
 Barton , near Lamerton, rebuilt in 
 the reign of Eliz., was long the seat 
 of the Tremayne family, of whom, 
 says Fuller, were Nicholas and An- 
 drew T., remarkable twins, who 
 could not be distinguished but by 
 their several habits ; who felt like 
 pain, though at a distance, and de- 
 sired. to walk, travel, sit, sleep, eat, 
 and drink together, and who were 
 both slain together at Newhaven 
 in France, 1564. In one of the 
 rooms is a window containing 3200 
 panes of glass. A chimney-piece has 
 the date of 1574. Sydenham (J. H. Tre- 
 mayne, Esq.), about 8 m. N.W., on 
 the banks of the Lyd, is another 
 venerable house in the shape of an 
 g£, and a fine example of domestic 
 architecture in the Elizabethan 
 age. It contains a noble stair- 
 case, portraits of the Wise and 
 Tremayne families, a number of 
 antique cabinets, furniture of the time 
 of Charles I., and a costly suit of 
 harness. One chamber is hung with 
 damask, and the banqueting-hall 
 ornamented with carved oak panels, 
 one of which opens to a secret pas- 
 sage leading to other rooms. This 
 old house was built by Sir Thomas 
 Wise, who was knighted at the coro- 
 nation of James I. It was garrisoned 
 for King Charles, and taken by the 
 
 Parliamentary troops under Colonel 
 Holbourn, Jan. 1645. Bradstone 
 Manor-house (near Sydenham), is a 
 Tudor building approached through 
 a large gatehouse, and anciently a 
 possession of the Cloberry family. 
 
 ( d ) Buckland Abbey , a seat of Sir 
 Francis F. Drake, Bart., representa- 
 tive of the 44 old warrior ” Sir Francis 
 Drake, is situated on the Tavy about 
 4 m. from Tavistock. It was founded 
 — (for Cistercians — it was colonized 
 from Quarr Abbey in the Isle of 
 Wight) — in the year 1278, by Amicia, 
 Countess of Baldwin de Redvers, Earl 
 of Devon, and daughter of Gilbert 
 Clare, E. of Gloucester and Hereford. 
 She was the mother of the great 
 heiress Isabella de Fortibus, who 
 was also a benefactress of the Abbey. 
 The Countess Amicia endowed it 
 with much land in the neighbourhood, 
 including the manors of Buckland, 
 Bickleigh, and Walkhampton ; be- 
 sides that of Cullompton in a richer 
 part of Devon. The Abbey seal 
 records the monastery as 44 the place 
 of St. Benedict of Buckland.” The 
 site was granted by Hen. VIII. to 
 Sir R. Grenfield of Bideford, who 
 seems to have demolished much of 
 the conventual buildings. In 1580 
 he alienated it to John Hele and 
 Christopher Harris, who (1581) sold 
 it to Sir Francis Drake. In de- 
 fault of issue, he settled it on his 
 brother, Thomas Drake of Plymouth, 
 whose descendants possess it. Of 
 the Abbey the remains are but scanty. 
 The existing house, built by Sir 
 Francis Drake, occupies the site of 
 the church, since the 4 large arches 
 of the central tower remain in a 
 garret close under the roof. The 
 ancient belfry, and a noble barn 180 
 ft. in- length, are perfect. The man- 
 sion contains a very indifferent portrait 
 and some relics of the great cir- 
 cumnavigator, viz. his sword, his ship- 
 drum, and the Bible which he carried 
 with him round the world. Delightful 
 grounds encircle the house, and near 
 
235 
 
 Devonshire. Route 1 4. — Buckland ■ — Endsleigh. 
 
 it is the abbey orchard, which, ac- 
 cording to the tradition, was one of 
 the very first planted in Devonshire. 
 (This, however, must be received 
 “ cum grano.” It is probably to the 
 zeal of the monks in procuring the 
 choicest grafts from Normandy, and 
 in the careful management of their 
 trees, that the county is indebted for 
 its pre-eminence in the matter of 
 cider ; but long before Buckland was 
 founded, the abbots of Montbourg 
 had planted apple-orchards on their 
 manors of Lodres, in Dorset, and Ax- 
 mouth.) To the N. of this estate is 
 the village of Buckland Monachorum , 
 with a ch. (restored) remarkable as a 
 fine specimen of Perp. The old seat- 
 ing, the angel corbels of the roof, the 
 west tower with its fine turrets and 
 pinnacles, and the ancient glass in 
 the 5-light Perp. E. window repre- 
 senting (but in fragments) events in 
 the life of St. Andrew, should be no- 
 ticed. Here is also a very elaborate 
 monument by Bacon to the memory 
 of Elliot Lord Heathfield, the de- 
 fender of Gibraltar. The laboured 
 panegyric should be read. Lord 
 Heathfield (died 1790) married a 
 daughter of Sir Francis Drake, and 
 was himself buried at Heathfield in 
 Sussex. To the S. is the beautiful 
 demesne of Maristowe (Sir Massey 
 Lopes, Bart.) ; and, near the mouth of 
 the Tavy, Warlegh (W. Radcliffe, 
 Esq.). Old Morwell House , near the 
 S. end of the canal tunnel, although 
 now a farmhouse, was once a hunting- 
 seat (says tradition — it is the house 
 attached to the manor) of the 
 abbots of Tavistock. It is a 
 quadrangular stone building, with a 
 gatehouse of the 15th century. The 
 hall and chapel remain. This house 
 with the abbey lands passed at the 
 Dissolution to the family of Russell, 
 and has been restored by its pro- 
 prietor, the Duke of Bedford. The 
 far-celebrated Cothele (Cornwall, Rte. 
 23) may be added to this list of in- 
 teresting houses within reach of Tavi- 
 stock. 
 
 (<?) Endsleigh , the villa of the Duke 
 of Bedford, deserves a special visit 
 for the sake of its grounds, and the 
 beauty of its site. It is situated above 
 the Tamar, near Milton Abbot (an inn), 
 about 6 m. from Tavistock, on the 
 Launceston road, and may be viewed 
 by strangers who have obtained per- 
 mission at the steward’s office (at 
 Tavistock). Milton Abbot was one 
 of the most ancient possessions of 
 the Benedictines at Tavistock, and 
 is said to have been a gift of the 
 founder Ordulf. The abbot had a 
 park at Endsleigh or “ Innesleigh,” 
 and here, as in other possessions of 
 the Abbey, he was replaced at the 
 Dissolution by John Lord Russell. 
 The Church of Milton Abbot, ded. to 
 S. Constantinus and S. Eligius, is 
 Perp. with a Dec. tower, but is of 
 no great interest. Edgcumbe, in this 
 parish — now a farmhouse — gave 
 name to the ancient family of which 
 a younger branch has been ennobled, 
 and is represented by the E. of Mt. 
 Edgcumbe. The elder branch re- 
 mained here at Edgcumbe until very 
 recently. The house of Endsleigh, 
 a cottage, was designed by Sir G. 
 Wyattville (1810), and is only re- 
 markable for its picturesque irregu- 
 larity ; but the woods and the grounds 
 are the attraction, particularly the 
 Dairy Dell , the Alpine Garden with its 
 Swiss cottage, and the Terrace for 
 the extreme beauty of the prospect. 
 The private roads run for many miles 
 through woods on both sides of the 
 river, which winds most capriciously, 
 flowing a long way to the E., and 
 then as far to the W., and nearly en- 
 circling the hills which oppose it. It 
 is crossed by means of a floating 
 bridge. The stranger should obtain 
 permission to ride, to Endsleigh by 
 the road through Blanch-down Wood. 
 Above Endsleigh, near Dunterton, are 
 the remains of a chantry at a place 
 called Chapel Field, and a waterfall 
 flowing to the Tamar, over a rocky 
 Steep 100 ft. in height. 
 
 The pedestrian on his way to 
 
236 
 
 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston . 
 
 Launceston should, after seeing Ends- 
 leigh, follow the pathway through 
 the woods close to the river. The 
 gardener will start him in the path, 
 which will bring him out at Gre- 
 stone or Greystone bridge, a distance 
 of about 3 m. He will pass under 
 the Carthamartha Rocks, which rise 
 boldly from the Cornish side of the 
 river, and form a fine sweep of 
 wooded cliffs and red coloured crags, 
 which are seen to great advantage 
 from the broad meadow opposite 
 (through which the tourist will pass), 
 or from the hill side adjoining. 
 
 (/) No one fond of scenery should 
 leave the neighbourhood of Tavistock 
 before he has explored the Valley of 
 the Tavy , and visited, in particular, a 
 romantic spot called Double Water 
 (about 4 m. S.), where the Tavy is 
 joined by the Walkham and spanned 
 by a timber bridge. The hills are 
 adorned by woods and cliffs, and 
 the Walkham comes impetuously 
 down the valley of Grenofen, enliven- 
 ing the dark rocks with its spray 
 and the glen with its music. One 
 of the crags is called the Raven Rock, 
 and other wild and picturesque masses 
 overhang the mine and cave of the 
 Virtuous Lady (copper), a name said 
 to have been given in honour of Q. 
 Eliz. Rude lanes lead from this mine 
 to Roborough Down and the Morwell 
 Rocks. Grenofen (about 1 m. up 
 the Walkham) is the seat of T. Mor- 
 ris, Esq. Above Tavistock the Tavy 
 flows through scenes of a charming 
 character, but its valley is distin- 
 guished near the moor by a mixture 
 of the wild with the beautiful, the 
 former predominating in the Tavy 
 Cleave and around the romantic ham- 
 lets of Peter Tavy and Mary Tavy 
 and the copper-mine of Duel Friend- 
 ship (see Index). Mrs. Bray recom- 
 mends every traveller who comes to 
 Tavistock to see Devonshire scenery 
 “ to find his road out to Peter Tavy, 
 crossing Hertford Bridge in his way, 
 which is in itself worth seeing ; 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 thence to continue on as far as the 
 mill in Peter Tavy, to ramble to the 
 Coomb (a glen by the mill), return 
 back through Shellands, and then, if 
 he can get any little boy to become 
 his guide, he may go on to Mary 
 Tavy Rock (an insulated crag covered 
 with ivy and lichens) and the Clam 
 (a light wooden bridge at a great 
 height above the stream, which, as 
 usual, tumbles over rocks) ; and if he 
 be a good walker, he may proceed to 
 Cudlipp Town and Hill Bridge (where 
 the river has a solid floor of granite), 
 and so he will have seen all the sights 
 in that quarter in one round.” The 
 Tavy Cleave is closed by the heights 
 of Dartmoor, the ridge of Stannaton 
 Down rising immediately to the E., 
 the beautiful hill of Hare Tor on the 
 N., and Lint's Tor, where the ground 
 is curiously uneven from mole or 
 ant hills, on the S. Below the cas- 
 tellated piles of Hare Tor comes the 
 Tavy hurrying from the naked moor, 
 and those who are in the humour 
 for a supplementary walk may fol- 
 low the stream some distance towards 
 its source (say to Fur Tor, 2000 ft. 
 high, and crowned by a rock tower), 
 or strike boldly over the hills to Great 
 Mis Tor, and return to Tavistock by 
 Merrivale Bridge. Tavy is supposed 
 to be Taw vechan , little Taw, the river 
 being a tributary of the Tamar, or 
 Taw mawr, the great Taw (or river). 
 
 (g) Brent Tor (4 m.), Lidford Cas- 
 cade, and Lidford Bridge, are objects 
 for another excursion in this direc- 
 tion. (See Rte. 6.) 
 
 (h) The Valley of the Walkham 
 
 abounds in the most romantic scenery, 
 and will well repay those who explore 
 it from Double Water (confluence of 
 the Walkham and Tavy) to Merrivale 
 Bridge on Dartmoor. But at least 
 Ward Bridge (4 m. from Tavistock) 
 should be visited. You will proceed 
 by the old Plymouth road over Whit- 
 church Down, which commands one of 
 the finest views of Tavistock, and is 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 14 .— Lamerton — Mines. 
 
 237 
 
 bounded on the 1. by Pewtor (2^- m. 
 from Tavistock), piled with masses 
 of granite, which stand at the 4 car- 
 dinal points of the summit, and thus 
 frame as many views of sea and land. 
 Samp ford Spiney, “ a ch. and a house, 
 high up in the air,” lies S. of this tor, 
 and between Sampford Spiney and 
 Ward Bridge, the old monument of 
 Beckamoor Cross. The ch. of Samp- 
 ford Spiney ( Spinetum , a thorn- 
 brake) has a Perp. nave and Dec. 
 chancel. The Perp. tower is fine. 
 It belonged to Plympton Priory. At 
 Ward Bridge the banks are covered 
 with oaks and rocks, and the river 
 struggles bravely with a host of im- 
 pediments. If inclined for a struggle 
 himself, the pedestrian may track 
 the stream through wild moorland 
 scenery to Merrivale Bridge, whence 
 he can return by high road to Tavi- 
 stock. Ward Bridge is situated be- 
 tween Huckworthy Bridge and Mer- 
 rivale Bridge. 
 
 (i) The village of Lamerton (3 m.) 
 is said by Devonians to have been the 
 birthplace of Rowe , the dramatic poet ; 
 but Johnson tells another tale. There 
 is, however, no doubt that the father 
 of the poet was the rector of the 
 place. In the parish are Venn House 
 (Rev. W. Gill), and Ottery Park (H. 
 Terrell, Esq.). The Church , which be- 
 longed to Tavistock Abbey, is fine. 
 It is Perp., except the tower and E. 
 end of the chancel (where a Perp. 
 window is inserted in a Dec. arch), 
 which are Dec. There are some 
 fragments of good glass, and some 
 finer and better in S. Sydenham ch., 
 about 2 m. W. The tower is good. 
 In Kelly ch. (about 8 m. from Tavi- 
 stock, N. of the Launceston road) is 
 a profusion of old Perp. glass,— 3 
 large windows being filled with it. 
 The ch. has been restored. 
 
 (k) Between Dartmoor and the 
 Tamar, in the carboniferous district, 
 which is here bordered by the 
 granite and Devonian rocks on one 
 
 side, and by rocks representing the 
 old red sandstone on the other, the 
 bowels of the earth are the resort of 
 miners, who extract from them the 
 ores of copper, tin, silver (argen- 
 tiferous galena), lead, and man- 
 ganese. The most important mines 
 (now in work) in the Tavistock 
 district are : — Mary Tavy parish : 
 Huel Friendship (copper), Prince 
 Arthur Consols (silver-lead). Tavi- 
 stock parish : Bedford Consols, Bed- 
 ford United, Devon Great Consols, 
 and Gunnislake (all copper). Buck- 
 land Monachorum parish : Virtuous 
 Lady (copper). Beer Ferrers parish : 
 South Ward and Tamar Valley (both 
 silver-lead). The silver-lead mines 
 here have been worked to great 
 advantage from a period at least as 
 early as the reign of Ed. I. The 
 largest was at Beer Alston (the ore 
 often contained from 80 to 120 oz. 
 of silver to the ton of lead) ; and 
 before the swamping of the mine 
 a most interesting experiment was 
 made here. The riches of this 
 mine are under the bed of the 
 river Tamar, 220 fathoms below 
 the surface of the water. 'The 
 levels had been driven to a point 
 where the miners were obliged to de- 
 sist from their operations for want of 
 air, the engines being too distant to 
 effect a proper ventilation, and the 
 river overhead rendering it impos- 
 sible to sink a new shaft in the 
 desired direction. To meet these 
 difficulties, an inclined plane was 
 commenced at a point within 50 fath. 
 of the top of the shaft, and driven at 
 an angle of 37° through all the old 
 workings down to the 160 fath. level, 
 and, at the suggestion of Dr. Spurgin, 
 an engine was erected on the 145 fath. 
 level, in the course of the inclined 
 plane, with the several objects of 
 ventilating the workings, of drawing 
 up the stuff, of sinking a partial shaft 
 through a rich course of ore, of open- 
 ing new levels, and of lessening 
 the cost. This underground engine 
 fully answered all these purposes, 
 
238 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 14 . — Plymouth to Launceston. 
 
 and seemed to have established the 
 important fact that sources of mineral 
 wealth which have long been deemed 
 inaccessible from their depth are now 
 within our reach. Spur gin's engine was 
 one of 20-horse power, and worked 
 on a consumption of only half-a- 
 crown’s worth of coals in the 24 
 hrs. It pumped the water from the 
 new shaft, and raised the ore to the 
 145-fath. level, the smoke from the 
 furnace being conveyed along a flue 
 which ran through the old workings 
 to the surface, a distance of 2 m. A 
 model section of the mine appeared 
 in the Great Exhibition of 1851. 
 In 1860, however, the water forced 
 its way in from the river, and filled 
 up the mine. Fortunately, at the 
 time it happened, none of the miners 
 were at work. Fluor Spar is found 
 in the Beer Alston mines, in cubes 
 and octahedrons of a large size. It 
 is found also at the Virtuous Lady 
 mine, and in Huel Friendship. In 
 the last named mine very fine rock 
 crystals are found. 
 
 The richest copper-mine in the 
 county — and one of the richest in 
 the world — the Devon Great Consols , 
 formerly known as Huel Maria, 
 is situated in a valley to the rt. of 
 the Callington road, about 4 m. from 
 Tavistock, and, although not so deep 
 as Huel Friendship in Tavy Cleave, 
 is a most profitable concern, and on 
 so large a scale that it has quite the 
 appearance of a village. In one month 
 it has shipped 1200 tons of ore at 
 Morwellham Quay, while in the 
 same time Huel Friendship has 
 yielded only 200 tons. It is drained 
 entirely by water power, the 2 wheels 
 for the purpose each revolving with 
 the force of 140 horses. The wealth 
 of this mine has caused a diligent 
 search to be made in the neigh- 
 bouring hills, which are clouded 
 with smoke, and bristle with en- 
 gine-chimneys. The Mill-hill slate- 
 quarries are also rt. of the Calling- 
 ton road (lj m. from Tavistock). 
 About 200 men are employed 
 
 in these works, which are there- 
 fore of such a size as to be worth 
 seeing. The high road in their vi- 
 cinity ascends Morwell Down, where 
 it commands a view of Dartmoor, of 
 a similar character — to compare small 
 things with great things — as that of 
 the Alps from the Jura. In this 
 fine prospect Brent Tor is the most 
 prominent object, standing out in ad- 
 vance of the main body of hills, and 
 soaring aloft bright and distinct in 
 the shape of a flame. 
 
 (1) Lastly, in this long cata- 
 logue of interesting scenes round j 
 Tavistock, the road to Beer Ferrers 
 10 m. should not be omitted. {Beer, I 
 Beera — bearo, A.-S. = a grove of 
 trees, occur frequently in Devon- 
 shire as names of hamlets and 
 farms.) About 7 m. the road leaves j 
 rt. the village of Beer Alston , one of 
 the minute “ boroughs” disfranchised j 
 under the first Reform Bill. There j 
 were 53 electors. The Lord Keeper 
 Cowper and the Lord Chancellor | 
 King sat for Beer Alston, which I 
 first returned members to Parlia- 
 ment in the reign of Elizabeth. At t 
 Beer Ferrers an archaeologist should 
 also be directed to the Church, I 
 which is of Dec. and Perp. cha- , 
 racter, and very picturesque. It was 
 rebuilt (before 1330) by Sir Wm. 
 de Ferrers, who made it collegiate, j 
 His endowment provided for an arch- ;j 
 priest, 4 priests, and a deacon. 
 The ch. was “restored” in 1871. It 
 contains the monument (with effi- 
 gies) of the founder, Wm. de Ferrers, 
 and his wife, and another of a knight 
 of the same family, of early date (a 
 Crusader, crosslegged, removed from 
 the earlier ch.). It has been as- 
 serted that the effigy of the founder 
 represents him as barefooted, — a 
 peculiarity which does occur in 
 England and on the Continent, but 
 which is of extreme rarity, and 
 apparently refers to some pilgrimage 
 vowed or performed with bare feet. 
 
 It is doubtful whether this effigy can 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 239 
 
 Route 14 .— 
 
 be claimed as an example, since 
 whitewash and decay seem to have 
 brought about the appearance it now 
 now presents. In the E. window 
 are the very interesting figures in 
 stained glass of Sir Wm. Ferrers and 
 his wife (see them figured in Lysons). 
 Sir Wm., as founder, holds a church 
 in his hand. Armour and details 
 deserve attention. Whilst drawing 
 this glass Stothard, the antiquary 
 and artist (first husband of Mrs. 
 Bray, and son of the greater artist 
 Stothard), was killed by a fall from 
 a ladder. The glass was afterwards 
 removed, and for many years was 
 kept in a chest in the vestry. It 
 has been replaced as part of the 
 late (1871) restoration. In the ch. 
 are some incised slabs for the 
 Champernownes, who became lords 
 of the manor towards the end of 
 the 14th century. Stothard has a 
 monument in the ch.-yd. There 
 are some very scanty remains of a 
 castle, which Wm. de Ferrers had 
 a licence for crenellating (a grant 
 afterwards renewed) in 1337. Beer 
 is famous for its cherry orchards, 
 where the black cherry (here called 
 44 mazard” — it is nearly the same 
 as the Hampshire 44 merry” (amere) 
 and as the 44 zwart,” or black cherry 
 of Flanders) is grown to great per- 
 fection. 
 
 [The old turnpike-road from 
 Tavistock to Plymouth commands 
 some fine scenery. 
 
 5J Boborough, formerly called 
 Jump , a curious name which seems 
 to be identical with 44 jampnuin,” 
 “jampna,” words used in charters 
 of Tavistock Abbey to signify waste 
 or heathy places. {Inn : Lopes 
 Arms.) This is a small village on 
 the high land of Boborough Down , 
 deriving interest from the view, 
 which is yet more extensive -J 
 m. nearer Plymouth. To the E. 
 the western front of Dartmoor bristles 
 with a hundred tors ; to the W. 
 are the Moors which extend to 
 
 Boborough . 
 
 Bodmin, and the ridge of Hingston 
 Down and Kit Hill , forming a link 
 between the highlands of Devon and 
 Cornwall ; to the S. the Channel, 
 blending with the sky, and Plymouth 
 Sound, with its breakwater and ro- 
 mantic shores, displayed as on a map. 
 The Plymouth and Devonport leets 
 run past the village on different sides 
 of the road ; the former a swift clear 
 stream abounding with trout ; the 
 latter equally swift, but of a red 
 colour, from the character of the soil 
 it has traversed. The Vale of Bick- 
 leigh , the Valley of the Cad, and the 
 Cann slate-quarry, are all within a 
 walk of this place ; the rocky en- 
 trance to the vale of the Cad being 
 very conspicuous in the view toward 
 Dartmoor. The views, however, 
 become yet finer after passing Bo- 
 borough village, and while crossing 
 the open heath of Boborough Down, 
 1. is the entrance to Maristow (Sir 
 Massey Lopes, Bart., M.P. for South 
 Devon). George III., Queen Char- 
 lotte, and the Princesses visited 
 Maristow, Aug. 22, 1789, and were 
 so delighted with the scenery that 
 they returned on the following day. 
 They were staying at Saltram. The 
 house stands on the rt. bank of the 
 Tavy, and overlooks a beautiful 
 reach of the river. — The Boborough 
 Down stone, which from an early 
 period was much used in Devon- 
 shire churches, is a porphyritic 
 elvan, much harder than “schor- 
 laceous ” granite. It is found in 
 blocks over the down, and toward 
 the N. end rises (1. of the road) into 
 a picturesque mass called Boborough 
 Bock. There are quarries of it at 
 Calstock. See Introd. 4 Geology/ 
 A small entrenchment on the down 
 seems to be the 44 Boborough ” (the 
 44 red burh ” — the scarlet briony is 
 called 44 ro-berry ” in Devon), from 
 which the place is named. 
 
 Buckland Abbey (see Exc. from 
 Tavistock) lies about 2j m. 1. of 
 Boborough Bock. 
 
240 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 15 . — Plymouth to King abridge. 
 
 From Tavistock the rly. is carried 
 over the turnpike road, a foundry 
 yard, and the river Tavy, by a via- 
 duct 240 ft. long ; and afterwards 
 on a lofty embankment to 
 
 19} m. from Plymouth, Mary Tavy 
 Stat. ; near which is the well-known 
 Huel Friendship mine (see Rte. 6). 
 The church is Perp., of little interest. 
 (For Tavy Cleave and the scenery 
 here, see Exc. /, from Tavistock.) 
 The line then passes Brent Tor 
 (Rte. 6), and skirts Dartmoor, until 
 at Blackdown it reaches 
 
 23 m. Lidford Stat. (Rte. 6). This 
 is the summit of the line, 370 ft. 
 above Jhe station at Tavistock. 
 Hence there is a continued alterna- 
 tion of deep cuttings and lofty em- 
 bankments to 
 
 27} m. Coryton Stat. Coryton was 
 the original seat of, and gave name 
 to, the family of Coryton, now of 
 Pentillie Castle in Cornwall. In 
 the little church (badly restored) 
 is (or was) this edifying record of a 
 former rector : 
 
 “ This was a grateful priest ; his wealth 
 though small, 
 
 He to his patron gave, who gave him all.” 
 
 Near the stat. is Sydenham House 
 (J. H. Tremayne, Esq. Exc. c, 
 from Tavistock). A course of about 
 3 m. almost on a level, through the 
 valley of the Lid, brings us to 
 30} m. Li f ton (Rte. 6). Near the 
 stat. is Lifton Park (H. Bradshaw, 
 Esq.), which is traversed by the rly. 
 At Poulston Bridge the Tamar is 
 crossed, and the line then traverses 
 the Atterey valley (the Atterey 
 river runs under the walls of Laun- 
 ceston), which has some tine scenery, 
 to 
 
 35} m. Launceston Stat. (Rte. 21). 
 The stat. here is 76 ft. below that at 
 Tavistock, and 446 ft. below that 
 at Lidford. 
 
 ROUTE 15. 
 
 PLYMOUTH TO MODBURY AND KINGS- 
 
 BRIDGE (ROAD). THE COAST FROM 
 
 KINGSBRIDGE TO PLYMOUTH. 
 
 A coach runs twice a week from 
 Plymouth to Kingsbridge, following 
 the old Totnes turnpike road as far 
 as Ermington, and thence branching 
 rt. to W oodbury (2 m.). For Erming- 
 ton and Yealmpton on the road, see 
 the following route. The road from 
 Modbury to Kingsbridge is de- 
 scribed in the present route, post. 
 A small steamer, the “ Kingsbridge 
 Packet” runs from Plymouth to 
 Kingsbridge twice a week during 
 the summer. 
 
 From Modbury a pedestrian may 
 take the road by Aveton Gifford to 
 Kingsbridge (7} m.). The most 
 interesting part of the coast between 
 Kingsbridge and Plymouth is ap- 
 proached by a pleasant walk from 
 Modbury (see the present rte., post). 
 From Kingsbridge, the coast scenery, 
 perhaps the finest in Devonshire (see 
 Rte. 10), between that place and 
 Dartmouth, may be explored. 
 
 Kingsbridge itself is most easily 
 reached from Plymouth by taking 
 the rly. as far as the Kingsbridge 
 lload Station , whence a coach runs 
 to the town. A branch line from 
 the Brent stat. to Kingsbridge, fol- 
 lowing the valley of the Avon, and 
 passing by Loddiswell, Garabridge, 
 and Curtis-knowle, has been autho- 
 rized, but it is doubtful whether it 
 will be carried out (1872). 
 
Devonshire. Uoute 15.— 
 
 The drive (7 m.) from the rly. to 
 Kingsbridge is of no great interest. 
 The road leaves Ugborough Church 
 (Kte. 16) L, and soon afterwards 
 passes the entrance to Fowelscombe , 
 the old seat of the Fowels, a very 
 ancient Devonshire family. Fowel, 
 of Fowelscombe, is mentioned by 
 Macaulay among the Devonshire 
 squires who gathered with their ten- 
 antry on Haldon, when, in 1690, the 
 French fleet under Tourville was otf 
 the coast, and threatening a descent. 
 The Fowels have long disappeared 
 from Fowelscombe, which has some 
 Elizabethan portions, but is falling 
 into decay. There is a fine old 
 avenue. Passing Loddeswell , a small 
 village of little note, we reach Kings- 
 bridge (12 m. from Totnes, 14 m. from 
 Dartmouth. Inns: King’s Arms; 
 Golden Lion. Pop. of par. 4427. 
 A pleasant account of Kingsbridge 
 and its neighbourhood, compiled by 
 S. P. Fox, may be had in the town). 
 The town is built on a steep hill at 
 the head of a long navigable estuary. 
 There is no important river here 
 (the Avon joins the sea 4 m. W.), 
 and therefore no ancient bridge, so 
 that the origin of the name is un- 
 certain. The town, however, is of 
 considerable antiquity, and probably 
 grew up under the care of the Cis- 
 tercians of Buckfast Abbey, who 
 were owners of the manor from an 
 early period until the Dissolution. 
 Kingsbridge is a chapelry attached 
 to the neighbouring parish of Church- 
 stow , the manor of which also be- 
 longed to Buckfast. The town has 
 a modem look, and contains little of 
 interest. The church was mainly 
 built by the Cistercians, and ded. in 
 1414 to St .Edmund of East Anglia. 
 There is a fragment of the old 
 screen, with the inscription “ O 
 Sancte Edmunde, ora pro nobis.” 
 There is a central tower, with a 
 spire. The lower part of the tower 
 is Trans.-Norm., a proof that an 
 earlier ch. existed here than that of 
 1414. A monument by Flaxman 
 [Dev. Sf Corn.~\ 
 
 Kingsbridge . 241 
 
 for the wife of Major Hawkins may 
 be noticed ; and there is a tablet for 
 George Hughes, vicar of St. An- 
 drew’s, at Plymouth, one of the 
 ministers ejected after the restora- 
 tion of Charles II., d. 1667. He was 
 for some time imprisoned on St. 
 Nicholas Island ; and was at last 
 allowed to remove to Kingsbridge, 
 where he died. There exists a 
 curious grant of land (a.d. 1528) to 
 the church, by John Gye, to provide 
 “ cakes, wine, and ale to be spread 
 on a table in the chancel of the ch. 
 of St. Edmund, for the priests and 
 others attending,” who, after due 
 refreshment, are to proceed to the 
 W. end, near the font, where they 
 are to pray for the souls of the donor 
 and his relatives, there buried. Be- 
 sides Hughes, John Hicks, the 
 ejected minister of Stoke Damarel, 
 settled himself at Kingsbridge,* where 
 he was much harassed by the magis- 
 trates, and at one time was with 
 eight others tried and acquitted at 
 Exeter on a charge of murder. He 
 seems to have been a violent ‘‘dis- 
 senter,” but is noticeable as. the 
 “ John Hicks ” for sheltering whom, 
 after the defeat at Sedgmoor, Alice 
 Lisle was condemned and executed. 
 He had been an active supporter of 
 Monmouth, and was himself hanged. 
 
 The Toim Hall , erected 1850, con- 
 tains a large central area, in which 
 the butter and poultry market is 
 held, public and reading rooms, and 
 a Museum of stuffed birds and other 
 objects in natural history given by 
 Charles Prideaux, Esq. The collec- 
 tion of British shells is important. 
 The Grammar School was founded 
 and endowed, 1670, by Thomas Cris- 
 pin, fuller, born here in 1607. It 
 contains a full-length portrait of 
 him. The building has been added 
 to and renewed. At Knowle House , 
 on the summit of the hill, lived, 
 from 1799 to 1815, the well-known 
 naturalist Col. Montagu, author of 
 the ‘ Ornithological Dictionary 9 and 
 M 
 
242 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Route IS * — Plymouth to Kingsbridge • 
 
 4 Testacea Britannica.’ He made 
 some interesting discoveries in this 
 neighbourhood; and his collection 
 of British birds and animals was 
 bought after his death for the British 
 Museum, at a cost of about 1100Z. 
 William Coohivortliy , at whose china 
 manufactory in Plymouth (see Bte. 
 7) the first true porcelain was 
 inade in this country, was born at 
 Kingsbridge in 1705. He was a 
 man of remarkable 44 absence,” and 
 once spoilt a fine set of china by 
 putting his thumbs into one of the 
 cups and breaking it in two, in order 
 to display the excellence of its body. 
 Pindar Lodge , near Dodbrook Quay, 
 stands on the spot where John Wol- 
 cot (Peter Pindar) was born; and 
 behind it still remains a barn, which 
 the satirist has addressed in an ode. 
 Wolcot received his early education 
 at Kingsbridge Grammar School, 
 and some noble examples of true 
 Western Doric are to be found 
 among his verses. 
 
 At the lower end of Fore Street 
 is a house containing some good 
 carved wainscoting, and said to have 
 been a residence of the abbot of 
 Buckfast, who always spent the sea- 
 son of Lent at Kingsbridge, where 
 fish was close at hand. The house 
 belongs to T. W. Weymouth, Esq. 
 
 The town of Dodbroohe closely 
 adjoins Kingsbridge. The ch. (of 
 little interest) was restored in 1816. 
 The old house of Lang well, here, has 
 a picturesque archway and gable 
 (loth centy.) ; but of its history no- 
 thing is known. There is a large 
 iron foundry at Dodbrooke, whence 
 edge tools, agricultural implements, 
 &c., are exported to the Channel 
 Islands, in connection with the fishe- 
 ries of Newfoundland and Labrador. 
 The white ale of the South Hams 
 (already described, Rte. 10, Sal- 
 combe) is said to have been first 
 made at Dodbrooke, and to have 
 been introduced there by a German. 
 
 The road from Kingsbridge to 
 
 Modbury is described post. S. of 
 the town, in the tongue of land be- 
 tween the Kingsbridge estuary and 
 the river Avon, is West Alvington 
 Church (1 m.), chiefly Perp., with an 
 enriched Eastern sepulchre in the 
 chancel. Bowringsleigh (W. R. 
 Ilbert, Esq. — it has been the seat of 
 the Ilberts since William III.), in 
 this parish, is a good Tudor house, 
 with some rich ceilings. There is 
 a venerable avenue of lime-trees. 
 Gerston , lower down the estuary, is 
 an ancient seat of the Bastards. Its 
 gardens were long famous for lemons 
 and oranges, produced from trees 
 trained against the walls, and pro- 
 tected in winter by straw mats. 
 Some of the fruit, 44 as large and 
 fair as any from Portugal,” was pre- 
 sented to King George III. in 1770. 
 The Bastards lived here from a very 
 early period (probably from soon 
 after the Conquest) until 1773, when 
 they removed to Kitley. Marl- 
 borough Church , conspicuous from its 
 tower and lofty spire, lies farther 
 inland. It is chiefly Perp., with a 
 good rood-screen, of which the doors 
 remain, and is worth a visit. Marl- 
 borough is a chapelry attached to 
 W. Alvington, and stands on very 
 high ground, overlooking a wide 
 expanse of sea. The folk insist 
 that the 44 Marber” (Marlborough) 
 “moon” shines far more brightly 
 than the moons of less favoured 
 regions. Salcombe and Salcombe 
 Castle , or 44 Fort Charles,” also on 
 this side of the Kingsbridge estuary, 
 are described in Rte. 10. 
 
 On the East side of the estuary, 
 descending from Kingsbridge, is 
 Charleton Church , restored (nave and 
 aisles rebuilt) in 1850 ; the old 
 screen and roodloft remain. Char- 
 leton Bridge, a horizontal swing- 
 bridge over the Bowcombe Creek, 
 built 1845, deserves notice. The 
 weight of the fulcrum rests on 12 
 cannon balls. Near the village of 
 Frogmore , at the head of a creek, 
 are some large slate quarries, which 
 
Devonshire. Route 15 .— 
 
 have been worked since the reign 
 of Henry VIII. Much slate is ex- 
 ported hence. The Church of South 
 Pool , at the head of the next creek, 
 dedicated to St. Nicholas and St. 
 Cyriac, is Perp., with a good pin- 
 nacled tower, rood-screen, and par- 
 close, and in the chancel is an Easter 
 sepulchre, with a representation of 
 the Resurrection in front. In Chir el- 
 stone Ch. (Dec. ?) the pulpit is carved 
 from a solid block of oak. Other 
 churches and objects of interest on 
 this side are noticed in Rte. 10. 
 
 The estuary of Kingsbridge is 
 much indented by winding creeks, 
 and can hardly be described as very 
 picturesque. But it is full of interest 
 for the naturalist. In the middle of 
 its broadest portion, called Wide- 
 gates , is the Salt Stone , an islet about 
 100 ft. long by 50 ft. broad. Oyster 
 beds have been laid down here ; and 
 here Col. Montagu found many 
 curious marine animals, including 
 Amphitrite infundibundum (Mon- 
 tagu), and Cancerastacus subterra- 
 neus (Mont.). Solen vagina , Bulla 
 hytadis , and Turbo clatlirus , the last 
 probably one of the animals from 
 which the purple dye of the ancients 
 was procured, are also found here. 
 In winter, the whole of the estuary 
 is frequented by a great variety of 
 birds, including the “ hooper” or wild 
 swan. The grand coast, E. and W. 
 of the estuary, is described in Rte. 10. 
 
 There are a few churches, and 
 some ancient camps, lying N.E. of 
 Kingsbridge, which deserve notice. 
 Woodleigli Church , chiefly Perp. (re- 
 stored), contains, like many of the 
 churches in this district, an Easter 
 sepulchre, having on the wall at 
 the back rude representations of 
 the Descent from the Cross, the 
 Resurrection, and the Visit of the 
 Women to the Sepulchre. Wood- 
 leigh Woods, overhanging the rocky 
 stream of the Avon, are very beau- 
 tiful. The Church of East Alvington 
 (2 m. E. of Woodleigh) is Perp. and 
 fine. There are some Fortescue 
 
 •. Kingsbridge * 243 
 
 memorials, one of which, for Eliz. 
 Fortescue, d. 1611, has (or had) an 
 inscription running — 
 
 “ Here lieth a wight 
 Of worthy descent, 
 
 Whose losse for her worthe 
 The people lament; 
 
 The Rich for her love 
 And kind affabilitie, 
 
 The Poor for her Alms 
 Deeds and Hospitalitie.” 
 
 There is also a Brass for John 
 Fortescue, 1595. 
 
 Fallapit in this parish has been a 
 seat of the Fortescues since 1450, 
 when Sir Henry Fortescue married 
 the heiress of a family who bore the 
 name of Fallapit. Sir Edmund For- 
 tescue w T as the gallant defender of 
 Fort Charles (see Rte. 10). The 
 existing house was built about 1810. 
 The present representative of the 
 Fortescues has sold Fallapit, and 
 the pictures it contained, including 
 a portrait of the Royalist, and the 
 key of the fort he defended, have 
 been removed to Torquay. 2 m. N. 
 of E. Alvington is the large camp 
 of Stanborough , lying near the road 
 from Totnes to Kingsbridge. It is 
 described, with other places of in- 
 terest on this road, in Rte. 7. 
 
 The land in the neighbourhood of 
 Kingsbridge is based upon the red 
 and variegated grauwacke slates of 
 De la Beche, and is remarkably 
 productive. 
 
 About 2 m. from this town, on the 
 high road to S. Brent, and i m. below 
 Loddiswell, there is an exceedingly 
 pretty view down the Avon. The 
 valley sides are steep, and studded 
 with wood, wild croft, and meadow ; 
 two old bridges span the river, and 
 the tower of Churchstow crowns a 
 hill in the distance. It may be 
 added that a cruise down the Avon 
 from Aveton Giffard — to which place 
 it is navigable — will repay the 
 tourist. The scenery resembles that 
 on the Dart, on a much smaller 
 scale. 
 
 Proceeding from Kingsbridge to 
 
 M 2 
 
244 
 
 Route 15 . — Plymouth to Kingsbridge. Sect. I. 
 
 Modbury (a route which will be 
 reversed, if the tourist approaches 
 Kingsbridge from the former place), 
 the road takes us direct to the airy 
 village of 
 
 2 m. Churchstow, which commands 
 an extensive prospect over a broad 
 tract of country patched with fields, 
 but bare of timber. (Below, rt. 
 is Combe Royal (J. Luscombe, Esq.) 
 a large house of Tudor character, 
 famous for its gardens and grounds. 
 Rhododendrons grow here to a very 
 great size ; and oranges, lemons, 
 and citrons flourish and ripen well 
 in the open air). Churchstow, the 
 mother ch. of Kingsbridge, chiefly 
 Perp., was restored in 1849. The 
 distant spire of Marlborough Ch. is 
 conspicuous in the direction of the 
 Bolt, and, adjoining Kingsbridge, 
 the ch. tower of West Alvington 
 (Perp. and fine), with its 4 lofty 
 pinnacles (see ante ). At Leigh , in 
 the parish of Churchstow, is a very 
 interesting cell which formerly 
 belonged to Buckfast Abbey. It 
 contains portions of the 15th and 
 16th cents. ; the fine entrance arch 
 belonging to the earlier time. 
 Bastard Balm (. Melittis melisso- 
 phyllum) may be found in the hedges 
 about Leigh. Crossing the Avon, 
 we reach 
 
 2 m. Aveton (pron. Auton) 
 Giffard , a village prettily situated on 
 the river. Aveton was a very early 
 possession of the Giffard family, one 
 of whom, in 1333, was Abbot of 
 Buckfast. The Church of Aveton is 
 mainly E. Eng., of very good cha- 
 racter, with a central tower. The 
 windows are later insertions. This 
 ch. deserves a visit. (2 m. S.W. is 
 Bigbury, with an interesting ch. See 
 post.) Beyond the village of Aveton, 
 the hills grow bolder, and the 
 country becomes more picturesque 
 as we approach Dartmoor, which 
 forms the background to the differ- 
 ent views on the road. The land is 
 
 exceedingly fertile, and orchards 
 numerous and flourishing. 
 
 3^- Modbury . ( Inn : White Hart.) 
 This is an antiquated town (pop. 
 1621), built in 4 streets, which, 
 descending hills from the cardinal 
 points, meet at the bottom of a 
 valley. Many of the houses are ! 
 blue and ghastly from their 
 fronts of slate, and, on the E., are 
 perched on so steep an acclivity 
 that they look as if they would tum- 
 ble below and overwhelm the White 
 Hart. Here the family of Champer- 
 nowne lived in great splendour from 
 the reign of Edw. I. to the begin- 
 ning of the 18th centy. (de Campo i 
 Ernulphi = Champ Ernon ; — the : 
 site of their Norman property is 
 marked on Mr. Stapleton’s map. 
 (‘ Rotuli Scaccarii Normannise,’ vol. 
 i.) They did not settle in England 
 until long after the Conquest. The 
 name is still known in Normandy.) 
 Modbury Court was their man- 
 sion, and stood on the hill W. of 
 the town, at the end of the 
 present street. A licence to cren- 
 nellate his manor-house here was 
 granted to Rich, de Champer- 
 nowne, 8th Edw. III. One wing 
 of the house is standing, with ail 
 vaulted substructure of granite, and a 
 dining-room over. Modbury Churclil 
 is mainly Perp., and remarkable for a , 
 true spire, that is, a spire tapering! 
 from the ground. It is 134 ft. in 
 height, and was rebuilt about the] 
 year 1621, The interior of the 
 ch. has been repaired. Observe] 
 the granite pillars in the interior, 
 and on the N. wall, on the out- j 
 side, a curiously sculptured doorway, 
 There are some monuments with 
 effigies of the Champernownes. Twc 
 old conduits should be noticed in 
 the streets leading E. and N. In 
 Feb. 1643, Sir Nicholas Slanning. 
 having entrenched himself near this 
 town, with 2000 men, was defeated 
 by the Devonshire club-men. 
 
 Ermington (Fawn Hotel), with its 
 
245 
 
 Devonshire. Route 15.— Oldaport — Mothecomb . 
 
 twisted spire (see Rte. 16), is 2 m. 
 N.W. from Modbury, and on the 
 road to Ivy Bridge (Rte. 7), from 
 which it is distant 3 m. 
 
 Proceeding from Modbury on foot 
 by the coast of Bigbury Bay (which 
 the pedestrian will find a pleasant 
 circuit), we reach 
 
 2 m. 1. Fleet House (W. F. Splatt, 
 Esq.). Here the pedestrian will leave 
 the road, and walk through the park, 
 and along the shore of the Erme to 
 the sea, about 3 m. If, however, 
 there should be a chance of his meet- 
 ing the flood tide, he must take the 
 road to the rt., near the head of the 
 estuary, through the woods of Fleet 
 House to Holbeton. Fleet House was 
 for many years the seat of the Heles, 
 and after them of the Bulteels, who 
 sold it in 1864 to the present 
 owner, a merchant from Australia. 
 It dates from the reign of Eliz., but 
 the principal fronts are modern. The 
 Bulteels trace their descent from 
 the Crockers, one of the oldest of 
 Devonshire families. 
 
 “ Crocker, Cruwys, and Coplestone, 
 
 When the Conqueror came, were all at 
 home.” 
 
 At the head of the Erme estuary, 
 on the 1. bank, on a farm called 
 Oldaport , are the remains of a large 
 walled camp or fortification, enclos- 
 ing nearly 30 acres. They consist of 
 the foundations of 2 round towers, 
 and of walls 5 ft. thick, with 2 en- 
 trances 9 ft. wide. The farmhouse 
 was, at an early period, the residence 
 of the family of De la Port (named, 
 of course, from the “ port,” or en- 
 closure. Fort y according to Kemble, 
 means strictly an enclosed place for 
 sale and purchase— a market), and 
 afterwards of the Somasters and 
 Heles. Near one of the entrances 
 is a well of pure water, in which a 
 spear head, pronounced Roman, 
 was found, and is now in the pos- 
 session of the farmer. These re- 
 mains will perhaps repay the atten- 
 
 tion of the antiquary. They may 
 possibly be of Roman origin. The 
 “ Ardua ** of the geographer of Ra- 
 venna has been fixed at Ermington 
 by some authorities. 
 
 2 m. Holbeton , deserving notice only 
 for its retirement in an uninteresting 
 but highly productive district. The 
 ch., however, is interesting, — a fine 
 Perp. building, with graceful W. 
 spire. 
 
 1 i m. Mothecomb , a little hamlet at 
 the mouth of the Erme. (In the 
 district between the mouths of the 
 Erme and the Avon are 2 churches 
 worth a visit. This may be ac- 
 complished most conveniently from 
 Modbury. The churches are those 
 of Bigbury and Ringmore. Bigbury 
 (4 m. from Modbury), which now 
 gives its name to the wild bay on 
 the coast, formerly imparted it to 
 an ancient family who lived in this 
 neighbourhood from the Conquest 
 to the reign of Edw. III. The ch. of 
 Bigbury is partly Dec., and contains 
 a fine Brass for a lady of the Bigbury 
 family, circ. 1440. There is also a 
 brass for Robt. Burton (effigy gone) 
 and wife, Elizabeth de Bigbury, 
 whose first husband was Thomas 
 Arundell, 1460. The ch. is a sea- 
 mark. Ringmore (1 m. farther) is 
 a very interesting church, — partly 
 Norman, partly Dec. It has been 
 proposed (1872) to commence lay- 
 ^ ing out the ground for a new 
 " watering-place S. of Ringmore, on 
 the W. side of the Avon mouth. 
 There are, doubtless, many advan- 
 tages of situation and of climate. 
 Farther W. is King stone, where the 
 church tower, of the 13th centy. is 
 of somewhat remarkable character, 
 resembling some Irish towers. 
 There is a gabled roof, and a bold 
 square turret on the N. side. The 
 body of the ch. is early Perp. In 
 the S. transept is the Wonwell aisle 
 or chapel, separated from the ch. by 
 a Jacobean screen. Wonwell Court , 
 
246 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 15 .— Plymouth to Kingsbridge. 
 
 in a picturesque hollow £ m. W„ 
 was the seat of the Won wells till 
 Hen. VI., when it passed by mar- 
 riage to the Hingestones — thence to 
 Ayshfords. Part of the house dates 
 from the reign of Jas. I., and was 
 built by an Ayshford, whose shield is 
 over the entrance. It is surrounded 
 by fine timber. The valley of the 
 Erme is very picturesque and well 
 wooded.) 
 
 We now pursue our way along 
 the solitary cliffs towards the 
 western horn of Bigbury Bay, 
 among rocks of the grauwacke 
 formation, beautifully coloured, 
 hung with ivy and samphire, and 
 everywhere broken into the most 
 wild and romantic recesses, in which 
 clusters of fragments are buffeted by 
 the sea. Near the end of the bay, 
 where the shore makes a decided turn 
 to the southward, stands the 
 
 4 Church of Eevelstoke , a lonely old 
 building, rough with lichens, wea- 
 thered by storms, and perched on the 
 verge of a low craggy cliff, up which 
 comes the salt foam to the church- 
 yard. Part of the nave has (1872) 
 fallen, and remains in ruins. Not a 
 house is in sight; the solitary hills 
 and waves encompass the building, 
 which with its mouldering tomb- 
 stones might well represent the 
 imaginary scene of tho poet — 
 
 “Where lay the mighty bones of ancient 
 men, 
 
 Old knights, and over them the sea-wind 
 sang 
 
 Shrill, chill, with flakes of foam.” 
 
 Near at hand the visitor should notice 
 a cliff of beautiful outline and varied 
 colouring, rising abruptly from the 
 waves, and diversified at the top by 
 verdant hollows, in which wild fennel 
 grows luxuriantly. Close to it there 
 is a path down to the sea. 
 
 From Revelstoke Ch. the pedes- 
 trian can cross the hills direct to 
 Newton Ferrers, about 2 m., or add £ 
 m. to his walk by proceeding round 
 
 Stoke Point, where the slabs of slate 
 
 by the sea are on a grand scale. 
 Their size can be appreciated when , 
 a fisherman is seen upon them an- 
 gling for rock-fish. Having crossed ; 
 the hill from this point, we shall find 
 that the land breaks suddenly into a 
 dell, through which runs a lane to 
 the wild village of 
 
 JVoss , a straggling group of cot- 
 tages, “ set in masses of green, and 
 among narrow lanes and paths run- 
 ning hither and thither.” It is situ- 
 ated on the southern side of an inlet 
 from the Yealm Estuary, and oppo- 
 site the old town of Newton Ferrers ; 
 and a hamlet called Bridgend , the 3 i 
 being collectively known as Yealm . \ 
 The scene is novel and striking, and 
 the little road winding along the 
 wooded hills of the shore may re- 
 mind the traveller of those skirting 
 the Swiss lakes. In 1 m. it will lead 
 him to a ferry near the mouth of the 
 estuary. In 1849 Noss was ravaged 
 by the cholera, attracted no doubt by 
 the mud banks and want of drainage ; 
 and there is a tradition that about 
 160 yrs. ago all its inhabitants, ex- 
 cepting 7, were swept away by a pes- 
 tilence. A public-house in Newton 
 Ferrers is said to be the only one in 
 the parish. 
 
 The Yealm Estuary , although sel- 
 dom visited, is rich in the pictu- ■ 
 resque. The water is transparent, 
 the course of the inlet tortuous, and 
 the hills which enclose it heathery or i 
 wooded, and fringed at their bases 
 by a margin of rocks. There is a 
 wildness in this remote inlet which 
 is very pleasing. Having crossed the j 
 ferry, the pedestrian may proceed by 
 Wembury (pop. 561) and its weather- 
 beaten ch. on the margin of the sea ; 
 or, along by-roads and paths, either 
 by Plymstock (a fine screen) and the t 
 Laira Bridge, about 7 m., or by Hooe j 
 Lake, and ferry over the Catwater, ] 
 about 5 m., to 
 
 Plymouth (Rte. 7). 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 247 
 
 Route 1 6 . — Tobies to Plymouth . 
 
 In the ch. of Wembury hangs the 
 iron helmet of Sir Warwick Hele, and 
 there are several monuments to this 
 family, who had here a stately man- 
 sion, built by Sir John Hele, serjeant 
 at law to Eliz. and Jas. I., some 
 time in the 16th centy. (He died 
 1608, and has a monument in the 
 church.) It was seated on a tidal 
 lake, and for the beauty of its pro- 
 spects was declared by old Fuller to 
 be “ almost corival with Greenwich 
 itself. ,, The house was pulled down 
 1 803 by the Lockyers, who had pur- 
 chased the property. Langdon Ilall , 
 in this parish, was long the resi- 
 dence of the Calmadys. 
 
 Wembury has been regarded as 
 the “ Wicganbeorge” of the A.-S. 
 Chronicle, where (a.d. 851) Ceorl 
 the earldorman, at the head of the 
 men of Devonshire, fought with the 
 “heathen men” (the Danes), made 
 great slaughter, and gained the 
 victory. 
 
 BOUTE 16. 
 
 TOTNES TO PLYMOUTH (TURNPIKE 
 ROAD). ERMINGTON ; YEALMPTON. 
 
 By this route there is little to call 
 for notice till the tourist reaches 
 
 9 Ugborough (1^ m. from Kings- 
 bridge Hoad Station.) There is an 
 
 entrenchment called Ugborough Castle 
 on the 1., and the eminence of 
 Ugborough Beacon on the rt. The 
 church is fine and interesting — nave 
 and aisles built in 1323, chancel and 
 chantries about 1430, tower about 
 1520. It commands a fine view. In 
 connection with this church Prince 
 (‘Worthies of Devon’) relates some 
 anecdotes of John Prideaux, Rector 
 of Exeter Coll., Oxford, and Bp. of 
 Worcester (1641-50). He was the 
 4th son of a large family living at 
 Stowford in the parish of Harford 
 (Rte. 7), and “ being driven to shift 
 for himself betimes, and having a 
 pretty good tuneable voice,” he tried 
 to become parish clerk at Ugborough. 
 It was arranged that he and a com- 
 petitor should “ tune the psalm” on 
 the next Sunday, “ one in the fore- 
 noon, the other in the afternoon.” 
 Prideaux failed ; and used after- 
 wards to say: “ If I could have 
 been parish clerk of Ugborough, I 
 had never been bishop of Wor- 
 cester.” He afterwards walked to 
 Oxford “ in habit very mean and 
 sordid, — no better than leathern 
 breeches,” became a Bible clerk at 
 Ex. Coll., and rose at last to be 
 Rector of his College and Regius 
 Prof, of Divinity. He had attained 
 these dignities, when, coming into 
 Devonshire to “ pay his duty to his 
 parents,” and passing through the 
 parish of Ugborough, “ he heard 
 the bell toll for the funeral of a 
 poor old woman who had been his 
 godmother. On which the Doctor 
 diverted out of his way, went to 
 her burial, and gave her a sermon.” 
 About 1 m. from the village is 
 Fovoelscombe , a Tudor mansion 
 dating from 1537 (see Rte. 15). 
 
 3 Ermington (Fawn Hotel), known 
 for the twisted spire of its ch. The 
 tower and spire (said to have been 
 bent by lightning) are E. Eng. ; the 
 body of the ch. (in a sad state of 
 neglect) Perp., with Dec. portions in 
 the chancel. The altar (here strictly 
 
248 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 16 . — Totnes to Plymouth . 
 
 a communion table) is detached about 
 6 ft. from the E. end, and sur- 
 rounded by a massive Jacobean 
 balustrade of oak ; an almost unique 
 example of this Puritan arrange- 
 ment, which Laud insisted on alter- 
 ing. Brass: W. Strachleigh, Esq,, 
 and wife, 1583. The Elizabethan 
 monument in the N. chancel aisle is 
 that of Christopher Chudleigh. A 
 delightful lane runs from this village 
 to Ivy Bridge (Rte. 7). 
 
 3J Yealm Bridge. Here, some 
 height above the level of the river, 
 is the celebrated Yealm-bridge Cavern , 
 stored with the fossil remains of ani- 
 mals. These consist of the bones and 
 teeth of the elephant, rhinoceros, 
 horse, ox, sheep, hyaena, dog, wolf, 
 fox, bear, hare, water-rat, and a bird 
 of considerable size, and are all con- 
 tained in a layer of loam, forming 
 the upper bed of a series of sedimen- 
 tary deposits of from 18 to upwards 
 of 30 ft. in thickness. Many are 
 gnawed, and associated with the foecal 
 remains of the hyaena, and the lime- 
 stone roof is highly polished, as if 
 by the passing to and fro of ani- 
 mals which inhabited the cave. Far- 
 ther down the river, at Kitley, is 
 another cavern of larger dimensions, 
 but containing no bones ; while the 
 floor is little raised above the level of 
 high water. It is therefore supposed 
 that the Kitley cavern remained below 
 the surface of the river when that of 
 Yealm-bridge was raised high and 
 dry by an elevatory movement of the 
 land, and so became fitted for the re- 
 ception of hyaenas. 
 
 i Yealmpton. The Church is well 
 worth a visit. It was entirely rebuilt 
 (Butterfield, architect), except the 
 tower, at a cost of many thousands, 
 by the late Mr. Bastard, to whom 
 there is a memorial window, erected 
 by his tenants and friends in testi- 
 mony of their regard for him. The 
 walls of the ch. are inlaid with va- 
 rious marbles. In the N, aisle is the 
 
 interesting brass of Sir John Crocker, 
 of Lyneham, “Cipporarius” (cup- 
 bearer), “ac signifer” to Edw. IV., 
 d. 1508. Sir John distinguished 
 himself in suppressing Perkin War- 
 beck’s rebellion in 1497. The 
 family is one of those which, ac- 
 cording to the Devonshire rhyme, is ! 
 of true English origin — 
 
 “Crocker, Cruwys, and Coplestone, 
 
 When the Conqueror came were all at 
 home.” 
 
 Notice on the N. side of the church 
 in the churchyard, a very ancient 
 (Brito-Roman ?) inscribed slab, with 
 the word torevs. On the S. side 
 are traces of a building called the . 
 Palace, and said by tradition to 
 have been a “ residence of the 
 Saxon kings.” It was possibly an old 
 residence attached to the so-called 
 “ Golden Prebend ” of Salisbury, 
 to which this vicarage belonged. 
 Beyond this town the traveller will 
 observe to the 1. Kitley , seat of the 
 Bastards, and, on the opposite side of 
 the river, Puslinch (Rev. J. Yonge), 
 where there is a fine portrait of Dr. 
 Mudge, painted by Northcote in his 
 happiest style. Kitley was the seat 
 of the Pollexfens from the reign of 
 Eliz. to 1710, when the last male 
 representative died. The heiress 
 of Pollexfen married Bastard of 
 Garston, near Kingsbridge (see Rte. 
 15), and the Bastards then removed 
 their “ chief place ” from Garston 
 to Kitley. There are some fine trees 
 in the beautiful domain of Kitley, 
 which extends in a peninsula be- 
 tween two branches of the Yealm 
 estuary. 
 
 The road passes through the park 
 of Kitley, and just beyond it enters 
 the village of Brixton (Brit- 
 richeston). Near the ch.-yard is a 
 grove of elms, planted in 1677 by a 
 Fortescue, of Spriddlestone, to raise 
 a fund for the poor when they 
 should be fit for felling. Some have 
 accordingly been cut down from 
 time to time. There is an inscribed 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 249 
 
 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford . 
 
 stone, with a record of the planting, 
 and the verses : — 
 
 “ May Mithridates’ spirit still affright 
 Such as our living galleries despight : 
 Cleomenes and Agamemnon’s fate 
 Seize such as think not sacred what is sate, 
 And en’mies deemed to poor, to church 
 and state.” 
 
 5 Plymouth (Rte. 7). 
 
 ROUTE 17. 
 
 EXETER TO BARNSTAPLE AND BIDE- 
 FORD, BY CREDITON. NORTH 
 
 DEVON RAILWAY. (SOUTH MOL- 
 TON ; TORRINGTON.) 
 
 (The traveller will approach the 
 magnificent coast scenery of North 
 Devon most easily by this route. 
 From Barnstaple, a coach, meeting 
 certain of the trains, runs to Ilfra- 
 combe, and another, by Paracombe, 
 to Lynton and Lynmouth. A rail- 
 way also is in progress from Barn- 
 staple to Ilfracombe. Clovelly and 
 Hartland are best reached from 
 Bideford ; and W estward Ho by an 
 omnibus from the same place. 
 A coach also runs from Bideford, on 
 certain days during the summer, to 
 Bude ; and another from North Taw- 
 ton (see Rte. 6.) to Bude, by Hather- 
 leigb, and Holsworthy. The latter 
 is a long and a very uninteresting 
 day’s drive. [The rly. in progress 
 to Okehampton will have extension 
 lines to Bude and to Torrington, but 
 
 these are not yet (1872) begun.] Bude 
 (see Cornwall, Rte. 25) is better 
 reached from Launceston, or (by 
 the pedestrian) by walking along 
 the coast from Hartland, through 
 Morwenstow.) 
 
 The tourist may leave Exeter 
 from either the Queen Street or the 
 St. David’s Stat. Both stations serve 
 for the N. Devon Rly. 
 
 The line, crossing the Exe at its 
 junction with the Greedy, runs 
 northward by the vale of the latter 
 river, which is but a small stream. 
 Observe rt. the beautiful view up 
 the valley of the Exe ; and on the 1. 
 bank of the river Dynes Bouse (Rt. 
 Hon. Sir Stafford Northcote, Bart., 
 M.P. for N. Devon). Beyond the 
 house, but not seen from the rly., is 
 the church of Upton Pyne 9 of which 
 John Walker, author of the well 
 known ‘Sufferings of the Clergy 
 during the Grand Rebellion, ’ pub. in 
 1714, was rector (1720-1747). He 
 was a member of an old Exeter 
 family, and at the time his- book 
 was published was rector of S. Mary 
 Major’s Church, Exeter. He was 
 buried in the ch.-yard of Upton 
 Pyne. 
 
 1 m. from Upton Pyne, on the 
 river Exe, is the village of 
 
 Brampford Speke. The family of 
 Speke was once very powerful in 
 Devon. “ There are yet in remem- 
 brance,” says Westcote, in his Survey 
 (1630), “certain by-paths over en- 
 closed lands, which they call Speke’s 
 Paths , as lawful for him and. his 
 people to ride, go, and drive that 
 way, but for no other ; but they are 
 all wellnigh forgotten and shut up 
 now.” The Church of Brampford 
 Speke, which was well and carefully 
 restored while the Rev. G. C. Gor- 
 ham held the living (Bp. Phil- 
 potts contributing), contains an 
 ancient chantry of the Speke family, 
 
250 
 
 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford . Sect. I. 
 
 who also founded the chapel of St. 
 George in Exeter Cathedral. The 
 tower is very good. 
 
 4j Newton St. Cyrus Stat. 1. New- 
 ton House , J. Quicke, Esq., whose fa- 
 mily has possessed it since the reign 
 of Elizabeth. The village is beyond. 
 The Church (ded. to S. Cyrus, the 
 infant martyr, — killed with his 
 mother, Julitta, circ. 304) is Perp., 
 with a N. aisle later than the rest of 
 the building. In the buttresses are 
 niches containing figures. There 
 are some late monuments for the 
 Northcotes of Hayne, and the 
 Quickes. 
 
 l|m. from Newton the rly. passes 
 1. a farm-house called Dunscombe , 
 which is interesting as the old resi- 
 dence of the Bodleys, although no 
 portion of the present house is of 
 their time. The Bodleys had been 
 settled here for some time before the 
 opening of the 16th centy., and be- 
 longed to a class of “ squirelets” 
 then very numerous in Devonshire. 
 The father of Sir Thomas Bodley, 
 founder of the great library at 
 Oxford, passed from Dunscombe to 
 Exeter, where he settled, and where 
 his famous son was born. 
 
 J m. beyond, the line passes 
 Downes , James Buller, Esq. (rt.), 
 and leaves the river Creedy, fol- 
 lowing the valley of a tributary, the 
 Yeo, or (as it is called after its 
 junction with another rivulet) the 
 Ford ton Water. 
 
 7 m. Crediton {Inn: the Ship, 
 indifferent), situated in a valley 
 opening to the small river Creedy 
 (pop. 4048). It owes its modern 
 appearance, like Tiverton, to the 
 ravages of fire, but is a very ancient 
 settlement, the birthplace of the 
 Anglo-Saxon Winfred, better known 
 as St. Boniface (Archbishop of 
 Maintz, the first preacher of Chris- 
 tianity in Central Germany, and 
 founder of the famous monastery of 
 
 sanction of the Church to the 
 change from the Merovingian to the 
 Carlovingian dynasty, tie is not 
 the patron of innkeepers, who get 
 their name of “ Bonifaces ” from the 
 earlier, but far less distinguished 
 saint — the steward of the Roman j 
 lady, who expended his mistress’s I 
 substance in entertaining strangers). 
 Crediton was the seat of the Devon- 
 shire bishopric from a.p. 909 to 1050, 
 when the sees of Devon and Cornwall 
 were united and established at Exeter. 
 See Rte. 1 . (The most famous of the 
 Crediton bishops was Lyfing, who . 
 had been Abbot of Tavistock, and 
 was the friend and counsellor of 
 Canute). Thus the inhabitants say — 
 
 “ Kirton was a market town 
 When Ex$er was a vuzzy down.” 
 
 It was once famous for the manu- 
 facture of woollen goods ; but the 
 clothier is now superseded by the 
 shoemaker, who drives the busiest 
 trade in the place. The old saying 
 is however extant — “as fine as Kir- 
 ton, ” i.e. Crediton, “ spinning/’ The 
 first skirmish with the Devonshire 
 rebels, in 1549, took place here. 
 The “ rebels ” had assembled at Cre- 
 diton (hastening thither from Samp- 
 ford Courtenay (Rte. 6), and 
 made a “ mighty rampiere ” at 
 the town’s end, which they forti- 
 fied, together with some barns ad- 
 joining. Sir Peter and Sir Gawain 
 Carew, who had ridden from Exeter 
 “ to have speech of the rebels,” were 
 denied access to the town. There 
 was a skirmish, and the barns were 
 set on fire. “ The barns of Crediton ” 
 was henceforth the rallying word of 
 the insurgents. (Sec Froude, II. E ., 
 vol. vi.) Near the town are Shobrookc 
 Park , J. H. Hippisley, Esq. (where are 
 some good modern pictures by Wilkie , 
 Eastlake y Webster , Lee , &c.), — the 
 park, through which there is a foot- 
 path, deserves a visit — there are fine 
 views from its higher ground ; 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 17 . — Crediton. 
 
 251 
 
 Downes , James Buller, Esq.; and 
 Creedy Park , Lieut.-Gen. Sir H. R. 
 F. Davie, Bart., M.P. 
 
 The Church , dedicated to the Holy 
 Cross (and partially restored 1855 — 
 Hayward, architect), is a large and 
 handsome building, chiefly Perp., 
 with a central tower, of which 
 the lower part is Trans.-Norm. 
 In what is now the S. chancel porch 
 is an E. E. piscina, but this part of 
 the ch. seems to have been greatly 
 altered after the dissolution of the 
 collegiate establishment. Before 
 that time the chapter-house of the 
 canons apparently stood here. When 
 in the reign of Ed. VI. the church 
 was given to the “ town,” and passed 
 into the hands of 1 2 governors, some 
 farther accommodation seems to 
 have been thought necessary ; a 
 vestry was formed out of the 
 chapter-house, and the upper story 
 was either added or altered. Here 
 is the “ governors’ room,” containing 
 some fragments of the parish 
 armour, and other rooms in which 
 the dinner of these dignitaries was 
 dressed (aided, it is said, by portions 
 of the oaken church roof) when 
 they met annually at certain seasons. 
 The dinner was eaten and much 
 port wine consumed in the gover- 
 nors’ room — the last festivity having 
 been held about 1840. — The windows 
 of the eh. are excellent, particularly 
 the W. — the E. window is an in- 
 correct “restoration.” There is a 
 lofty and light clerestory, ex- 
 tending through nave and chancel. 
 E. of the latter is the Lady 
 Chapel , of early Dec. character 
 (the tracery of the windows is 
 Perp. insertion), and well deserving 
 restoration. It served as the Grammar 
 School from Edward VI.’s reign until 
 1859, when the present schools were 
 completed. Thisch. before the Refor- 
 mation was collegiate— the first in 
 rank among the col. churches of the 
 diocese — and the long and stately 
 chancel was occupied by the stalls of 
 its 18 canons and 18 vicars. The 
 
 manor belonged to the bishops of 
 Exeter, who made it one of their 
 favourite residences. (Whilst Bp. 
 Walter Stapeldon was celebrating 
 mass in the church on the feast 
 of St. Peter ad Vincula, August 
 1, 1315, a blind man who had been 
 praying before the altar of St. Ni- 
 cholas suddenly recovered his sight. 
 The bishop investigated the matter 
 in the adjoining Lady Chapel, and 
 “ ordered the bells to be rung in 
 thanksgiving.” The man was a 
 fuller of Keynsham, who had lost 
 his sight, as suddenly as he regained 
 it, during the previous Easter week. 
 He had dreamt that he would be 
 cured if he should visit the ch. of 
 the Holy Cross at Crediton.) At 
 the E. end of the S. chancel aisle 
 is an altar-tomb of the 14th centy., 
 with male and female figures, said 
 to be those of Sir John Sully and his 
 wife. The knight had fought in 
 most of the Black Prince’s battles, 
 and died when upwards of 105. On 
 the N. side of the chancel is the 
 effigy of Sir Wm. Peryam, chief 
 baron of the Exchequer, 1592. 
 “ True honour,” says Westcote, 
 “ kept him company to the grave, 
 and returned not with the heralds, 
 by whom he was, according to his 
 degree, laudably interred.” The 
 altarpiece represents Moses and Aa- 
 ron supporting the Decalogue- — a sur- 
 prising performance, reported to be 
 a copy of one formerly existing in 
 Exeter cathedral. In the parvise 
 chamber is a library (the collection 
 of a former vicar) of nearly 1000 
 vols. There is a fine copy of Wal- 
 ton’s Polyglott. To a vicar of 
 Crediton, the Rev. Samuel Rowe, 
 we are indebted for ‘ A Perambula- 
 tion of Dartmoor,’ an entertaining 
 account of the most curious and 
 delightful district in this county 
 (although the reader should be warn- 
 ed against the wild “ helio-arkite ” 
 theories adopted by the author, and 
 quite unsupported by facts). 
 
 There are no remains of the 
 
252 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford . 
 
 Collegiate buildings, which must 
 have been considerable. The dean, 
 who was also the vicar of the parish, 
 had a large house in what is now 
 44 Dean Street and a house called 
 “ the Palace ” marks the site of the 
 bishop’s residence. A broad meadow 
 known as the “Lords’ Meadow” 
 (see post) or “ Crediton Great 
 Meadow,” stretched from the Palace 
 toward the Creedy ; and here, in 
 1644, the Koyalist army, under 
 Prince Maurice, was reviewed by 
 Charles I., who, with his son, P. 
 Charles, was on his way westward. 
 P. Maurice’s troops were quartered 
 for some time at Crediton. — Fairfax, 
 with Cromwell, took possession of 
 the place in 1645; and on this oc- 
 casion Cromwell, before marching 
 out of the town on a Sunday, 
 listened to a sermon from one of the 
 army chaplains, in Crediton church. 
 — The bishops had an extensive 
 park here (on high ground above 
 the town), on which Sir Thomas 
 Dennys, a rapacious devourer of 
 Church lands, cast a longing eye ; 
 and Bp. Veysey was compelled by 
 Hen. VIII. to alienate it. — The last 
 remains of the Vicar’s Close, on the 
 N. side of the church, were destroyed 
 in 1872, for the enlargement of the 
 ch.-yard. The houses dated from 
 the middle of the 15th centy. — 
 According to Leland, the Saxon 
 church — “ the old Cathedral e Chirch 
 of Crideton” — occupied a different 
 site from that of the present building 
 — ‘‘by the new chirch yarde side.” 
 Local tradition places it W. of the 
 church ; but it seems very doubtful 
 whether anything more than a 
 chapel ever stood here. There are 
 two ancient wells in the valley, W. 
 — the most distant of which, marked 
 by a tali poplar, is called Winifred s 
 well — possibly an error for Winfred’s 
 (S. Boniface’s) well. Water is not 
 plentiful, and these springs may 
 well mark the site of the timbered 
 hall in which the “Apostle of 
 Germany” lirst saw the light. 
 
 Opposite the ch. are some excel- 
 lent parochial schools (Hayward, ar- 
 chitect), and at the head of the town 
 the Grammar School, completed 1859 
 from Hayward’s designs. It is a large 
 and fine Elizabethan building, with 
 residences for 2 masters. The foun- 
 dation is a good one, with scholar- 
 ships for either University attached. 
 
 In an orchard 1. of the road, a 
 short distance beyond the Grammar- 
 School, is a desecrated chapel (one of 
 7 which formerly existed in different 
 parts of the parish), of E. Eng. date, 
 and remarkable for the design of its 
 E. and W. ends, which have 3 lancets 
 of equal height in each. There was 
 no W. door. The chapel was ded. 
 to S. Lawrence. 
 
 A beautiful and curious view of 
 Crediton is gained from Down Head , 
 a few miautes’ walk from the town. 
 There is a very wide and fine view 
 from a field N. of the road to Barn- 
 staple Cross, a short distance above 
 the town. (In the field is the base 
 of an old summer house). The 
 N.E. ridges of Dartmoor are well 
 seen from this point. The view 
 from Fosbury Hill (S.W.) is also 
 extensive. The summit has been 
 fortified, and on Blackadown , opposite 
 (whence the view is still finer), 
 are remains of another camp, with 
 triple foss. These heights both com- 
 manded an ancient road from Exe- 
 ter to the N. coast of Devon. They 
 look on one side toward the northern 
 range of Dartmoor, and on the other 
 across a wide stretch of rich country, 
 toward the Blackdown hills, which 
 divide Devon from Somerset. (See 
 Kte. 1.) 
 
 The geologist may find on Fosbury 
 Hill a large patch of igneous rock in 
 the new red sandstone. The rock 
 is felspathic trap, and is (and has 
 been from an early period) much 
 used for building. (Crediton ch. 
 is built of it.) It is very hard and 
 durable. The quarry on Posbury 
 
253 
 
 Devonshire. Route 17 . — Sand/or d — Shobroohe. 
 
 Hill besides being picturesque, . is 
 worth examination by the geologist. 
 Dykes of sandstone traverse the 
 trap, varying in width from 1 in. 
 to 7 ft. A nodule of chalcedony, 
 more than 1 ft. in diam., may be 
 seen in the middle of one of the 
 dykes at Posbury ; and on the 
 eastern side the quarry is capped 
 by a fine, apparently stratified, 
 arenaceous rock, filling a depression 
 in the surface of the igneous mass, 
 but differing from the new red sand- 
 stone of the neighbourhood. There 
 is another quarry toward Yeoton, 
 where “ is a very instructive section, 
 in which the trap rests on the trias ; 
 the lower beds of the latter have all 
 the characters of the ordinary new 
 red sandstone ; but the upper ones 
 have undergone a graduated altera- 
 tion. At first they are simply 
 harder, but ultimately, when in 
 contact with the igneous rock, they 
 become jaspideous.” — W. Vicary. 
 (See farther on the Devonshire 
 traps, Introd. ‘Geol.’) (There is a 
 large mass of felspathic trap N. of 
 Posbury, extending from W. Sand- 
 ford to Knowle, and northward to 
 New Buildings. This, which is 
 worked in a quarry at Knowle, is 
 a fine-grained felspatho-porphyritic 
 basalt — too hard for building, but 
 used for road making. The area is 
 larger than that of the trap at 
 Posbury.) 
 
 It may here be said that the New 
 Red sandstone in the neighbourhood 
 of Crediton contains numerous boul- 
 ders and fragments of granite, 
 slightly changed, proving that the 
 granites of Dartmoor are more 
 ancient than the Trias, or New Red 
 sandstone (see Introd.), 
 
 [The pedestrian who desires to 
 reach Dartmoor or its borders from 
 Crediton may be advised to walk to 
 Moreton Hampstead (Rte. 8) a very 
 good centre. The distance is 12 m. 
 He will first make for Taphouse , on 
 the Okehampton road, visiting, if he 
 
 pleases, Posbury Hill on the way, 
 and passing through some very 
 picturesque country. At Taphouse, 
 crossing the road, he will soon reach 
 the lodge of Fulford Park . He 
 should walk through the park 
 (taking the turn 1. when he gets 
 near the house), and, passing through 
 the beech avenue and the farther 
 lodge — (for Fulford see Rte. 6), — 
 let him turn rt., and descend a very 
 steep hill to Clifford Bridge on the 
 Teign. On the top of the hill which 
 he will ascend beyond the river, are 
 the remains of Wooston Castle (Rte. 
 8). Thence the road becomes open. 
 There are good views toward the 
 moor, and Moreton Hampstead is 
 soon visible. The road increases 
 steadily in interest from Crediton 
 onward.] 
 
 2 m. N. of Crediton is Sandford, 
 considered the most fertile parish in 
 Devonshire. The church (Perp.) 
 is ded. to S. Swithun, and was a 
 chapelry attached to Crediton. It 
 contains a monument by Westmacott 
 for the late Sir Humphry Davy, of 
 Creedy Park. The soil here rests 
 on the red sandstone. But the 
 whole of this neighbourhood is 
 unusually rich and productive. 
 The Lord's Meadov : , a broad open 
 field extending from the Crediton 
 valley to the Creedy river, retains 
 the celebrity it enjoyed in West- 
 cote’s days. “ The soil,” he says, 
 “is very fertile both for corn and 
 pasture, insomuch as it is grown to 
 a general proverb throughout the 
 whole kingdom, — ‘as good hay as 
 any in Denshire ; ’ — and here in the 
 country — ‘as good hay as any in 
 Kirton ; and there — ‘ as good as 
 any in my lord’s meadow ’ — than 
 which there can be no better.” 
 Westcote himself was born (1567) in 
 the parish of 
 
 Shobrooke , 2 m. E. of Crediton. 
 The church here was burned in 
 1627, and in the rebuilding some of 
 
254 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford . 
 
 the old materials were used. Hence 
 some Norm, portions in the S. door. 
 The tower is Perp., and picturesque. 
 West Raddon, in this par., was the 
 property of the Westcotes. Among 
 the vicars of Shobrooke was Law- 
 rence Bodley (1582-1615), brother 
 of Sir Thomas, founder of the 
 Bodleian library. Lawrence Bodley 
 was a canon of Exeter; and it was 
 probably at his instigation that the 
 dean and chapter sent 132 MSS., 
 including some which had been 
 given to their church by Bp. Leofric, 
 to the new foundation at Oxford; — 
 a robbing of Peter to pay Paul 
 which it is hard to understand, and 
 harder to excuse. The Bodleys had 
 long been settled at Dunscombe in 
 this neighbourhood. (See ante .) 
 
 [3j m. N., on the banks of the 
 Creedy, stands Dowrish House , for- 
 merly mansion of the Dowrishes, and 
 said to have been built in the reign 
 of King John. The gatehouse and 
 centre of the old structure still re- 
 main. Here are preserved some por- 
 traits of the Dowrish family ; and “ a 
 marble table inlaid with cards and 
 counters, showing the 2 hands of 
 piquet held by a Mr. Dowrish and an 
 ancestor of the present Sir Stafford 
 Northcote, who were playing toge- 
 ther, when Mr. Dowrish, thinking he 
 had won the game, betted the manor 
 of Kennerleigh, and lost it. The 
 Northcotes hold it at the present 
 time. The marble table was made 
 to commemorate the event.” So 
 says tradition, and so it has been 
 stated in county histories ; but the 
 statement is unsupported by any 
 certain evidence.] 
 
 Leaving Crediton, the next stat. 
 is 11 m. Yeoford (Yeoton and Yeo- 
 ford are hamlets named from the 
 Yeo, a small feeder of the Creedy. 
 The rly. follows the valley of the 
 Yeo to this place.) From Yeoford a 
 branch line runs to Okehampton. 
 (See Rte. 6.) 
 
 13 J m. Coplestone Stat. In the 
 village, at a point where cross roads 
 meet, is Coplestone Cross , a monu- 
 ment of great interest for the anti- 
 quary. It is of granite, and is now 
 raised on a sloping base of modern 
 masonry, 4 ft. or 5 ft. high. The 
 cross itself is about 12 ft. in height. 
 It is a squared block of stone, the E. 
 and W. sides rather longer than the 
 N. and S. The whole is much 
 weatherbeaten, and tinted with 
 yellow lichen. All the sides have 
 been covered with ornament, now 
 difficult to decipher. On the N. 
 side there is a panel of crossed or 
 plaited lines ; and above it an inter- 
 lacing pattern, resembling those 
 found in A.-S. illuminations. There 
 are two crosses (St. Andrew — each 
 arm formed by 3 raised ribs) on the 
 S. side ; and toward the top of the 
 cross, on the same side, is a small 
 square headed recess, rudely formed, 
 — perhaps for a crucifix. There is 
 a hollow on the top of the stone. 
 The cross stands at the meeting 
 point of three parishes — Crediton, 
 Colebrook, and Down St. Mary. 
 From the character of its rude 
 sculpture it very probably dates 
 from before the Conquest, and may 
 have been a “ bound stone ” erected 
 by one of the Devonshire bishops — 
 perhaps the famous Lyfing — on the 
 limit of his Crediton manor. There 
 is no Cornish cross which precisely 
 resembles it, and no other of similar 
 character in Devonshire. It may 
 have been the Copl e- stone (chief 
 stone ? copp, A.-S. = a head) which 
 gives name to the place, and to the 
 very ancient Devonshire family of 
 Coplestone or Copleston, whose 
 “ cradle ” was close by. 
 
 The “ great Capstones,” as they 
 were called, or the “ Coplestones of 
 the White Spur,” lived here in great 
 state. (According to Westcote, the 
 of title “ esquire of the White Spur ” 
 was given by the king, with the 
 “ grant of a silver collar or chain 
 ofSSS, and silver spurs ; whence in 
 
 
 
 
 
255 
 
 Devonshire. Route 17 . — 'Morchard Bishop — Coleridge . 
 
 these parts they are called white 
 spurs ; and so distinguished from 
 knights, which wear gilt spurs.” The 
 honour, whatever it was, was here- 
 ditary. — The old house of the 
 Coplestones stood among rich mea- 
 dows below the village, W. It has 
 been modernized, and probably con- 
 tains no old portions. — A facsimile 
 of Coplestone cross was erected, by 
 the late Bp. of LlandafF, in his 
 village of Offwell, near Honiton. 
 
 15 J m. Morchard Road Stat . The 
 village of Morchard Bishop is seen on 
 the hill rt., 2 m. distant. It stands 
 high, and in an Episcopal Register 
 (1258) is called Morcestre Episcopi. 
 There may have been an entrench- 
 ment on the top of the hill. The 
 Church is Perp., with a good tower. 
 It contains a monument with 2 
 recumbent figures, much mutilated, 
 of the 15th centy., possibly for some 
 of the Arundells, who at that time 
 had much property here. 
 
 (1 m. 1. of the station is Down St. 
 Mary , where the church, restored, 
 has some Norm, portions, among 
 which is a sculptured tympanum 
 over the S. door.) 
 
 18^ m. Lapford Stat., from which 
 Denridge and Pidley , once the seats of 
 the Radford and St. Leger families, 
 but now farmhouses, are respectively 
 
 3 and 4 m. E. Bury, ^ m. S. on the 
 1. bank of the river, and Kelland , 1 m. 
 S. on the road to Zeal Monachorum, 
 are also old manor-houses. In Lap- 
 ford Ch. is a very good screen, 
 without paint, and a very graceful 
 Perp. tower. 
 
 [ Coleridge , some 4 m. W.,has aPerp. 
 Church, with a beautiful screen of the 
 same date, the doors of which are 
 perfect. This is one of the best and 
 most characteristic examples of the 
 rood-screens so common in Devon- 
 shire. There is a figure of Edw. V. 
 in stained glass. In the N. wall is a 
 
 4 centered arch, with a shallow 
 
 recess containing a figure in armour, 
 and by him a shield inscribed Joh~s 
 Eva's, which John Evans seems to 
 have been a special benefactor, if not 
 rebuilder of the ch. In the S. 
 chantry part of the parclose screen 
 remains, and some curious Prie 
 Dieus, with bold carving. One is 
 inscribed: “ Orate p. John Evans 
 parcardus de Oolrug factor istius 
 opis, ano regni regis Henrici octavi 
 tercio.” This chantry is of earlier 
 date than the Northern ; which 
 latter is probably (throughout) the 
 work of John Evans, as is the E. 
 window of the chancel. The arcade 
 has a bearing of 3 fusils, or lozenges, 
 and inscriptions — “ Orate p. aia 
 Johs. Evans.” Nothing is apparently 
 known of this John Evans, whose 
 appellation, — “ parcardus ” — • park 
 keeper? is noticeable. — This parish 
 most probably gave name to the 
 family of Coleridge, illustrious for 
 the additions it has made to the 
 6 Worthies of Devon.’ J 
 
 A little more than 1 m. beyond 
 Lapford stat. the rly. joins the river 
 Taw (running 1.), which it follows 
 to its destination. At the point 
 where the rly. meets it, the river 
 makes a sharp bend N. W. 
 
 21 i m. Eggesford Stat., 1 m. N. of 
 Eggesford, property of the Earl of 
 Portsmouth. The house of Egges- 
 ford, built early in the present cent., 
 is seen in the park, 1. It replaced a 
 house built by Edward Lord Chi- 
 chester, temp. Jas. I. In the little 
 ch. is a monument for this Lord 
 Chichester and Carrickfergus (of 
 w T hich place he was governor), put 
 up in 1649. 
 
 [lj m. 1. is Wcmworthy, where the 
 ch. is of little interest ; and 4 m. 
 Winkleigh, on high ground, over- 
 looking the valley of the Taw. 
 The manor was one of those which, 
 after the Conquest, were assigned to 
 Queen Matilda ; and the Domesday 
 survey mentions a park here — the 
 only one recorded as then existing 
 
256 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 17. — Exeter to Bideford. 
 
 in Devonshire. Winkleigh was the 
 chief seat of the Honour of Glou- 
 cester in this county, and, says 
 Westcote, “might sometimes vaunt 
 of two castles, whose ruins yet show, 
 but overgrown with tall trees ; of 
 which there is yet, by tradition, 
 many a pretty tale remembered of 
 dragons and fairies,’ ” which, un- 
 happily, he does not give us. The 
 “ castles ” were no doubt castellated 
 manor houses at Winkleigh Keymes, 
 — which belonged to a family of 
 that name, — and at Up Holcombe, 
 which Richard English had a licence 
 to crenellate in 1361. The church 
 (restored) is Perp., with a lofty tower. 
 The “ court house/’ adjoining, was 
 the “curia” attached to the lands of 
 the Gloucester Honour. 
 
 At Brushford, nearly 3 m. W., 
 the Eggesford fox-hounds are ken- 
 nelled rt. 2 m. from Eggesford 
 stat. is 
 
 ChulmJeigh (Inn: King’s Arms), a 
 small market-town (pop. 1705), near 
 the junction of the Little Dart 
 with the Taw, and on the Roman 
 road from Exeter into Cornwall 
 by Stratton. A good rood-screen 
 and a very fine Perp. tower, one 
 of the best in the district, are 
 the chief things to be noticed in 
 the ch., which is itself Perp. The 
 ch. was collegiate ; and tradition 
 connects with its prebends a story 
 told in different forms in many parts 
 of Europe. The manor, as part of 
 the barony of Okehampton, be- 
 longed to the Courtenays. A certain 
 Countess of Devon met, on his way 
 to the river, a “ poor labouring 
 man” carrying a basket. She in- 
 sisted on seeing the contents ; and 
 found 7 infants, of which “very 
 fruitful birth ” the poor man’s wife 
 had just been lightened, to the 
 dismay of her husband, who thought 
 the simplest way of disposing of 
 them was to treat them as kittens, 
 and drown them. The Countess 
 stayed his intention ; took possession 
 
 of the basketful, and reared the 7 
 children, providing for each of 
 them as he grew up a “prebend” 
 in Chulmleigh Church. In the 
 neighbourhood are some curious 
 houses. W., between the rail and 
 the road to Barnstaple, you may 
 find Colleton Barton ( — Williams, 
 Esq.), built 1612, and rich in an- 
 tique carving; and 5^ m. E., near 
 the farmhouse of Affeton Barton, 
 the ruins of the splendid seat of the 
 Affeton family in the 1 3th and 
 14th cents., consisting of a gate- 
 tower with spiral staircase. Affe- 
 ton was subsequently occupied by 
 the Stucleys ; and the neighbour- 
 ing church of W. Worlington 
 (Perp., with a wooden spire) con- 
 tains a sumptuous monument to Sir 
 Thomas Stucley (d. 1663), whose 
 brother was Cromwell’s chaplain. To 
 this family belonged, temp. Eliz., the 
 hero called “ the lusty Stucley,” 
 who, says Westcote, “ projected to 
 people Florida, and there, in those 
 remote countries, to play Rex.” He 
 afterwards became the Pope’s pen- 
 sioner, and was sent by him to Ire- 
 land to assist the papal cause ; but, 
 putting in to Lisbon op his way, was 
 persuaded by King Sebastian to join 
 his expedition to Barbary, where he 
 fell in the battle of Alcazar. His 
 career is as characteristic of the 
 times as those of the famous Shirley 
 brothers of Wiston in Sussex (see 
 Handbook for Kent and Sussex). The 
 little church of Creacombe (rebuilt 
 1857), about 4 m. N.of W. Worling- 
 ton, in a wild and uninteresting 
 district, contains a triangular-headed 
 S. door, undoubtedly Saxon. The 
 font is a plain circular bowl, probably 
 of the same date.] 
 
 25 m. South Molton Road Stat. rt. 
 8 m. is the town of S. Molton. 
 (Inns : George ; White Hart.) (On 
 the road, 2 m. from the stat., is 
 King’s Nympton Park (J. Tanner, 
 Esq.). The park dates from the 
 reign of Hen. VIII., when it was 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 17 .■ — South Motion . 
 
 257 
 
 enclosed by Sir Lewis Pollard , a 
 Justice of the King’s Bench, and 
 native of this parish. The church 
 is Perp., with a good carved nave 
 roof, but otherwise uninteresting. 
 1 m. S.W. are extensive quarries 
 of black limestone. 
 
 South Molton is an old town (pop. 
 3830) situated at the N. edge of the 
 carboniferous rocks, and on the river 
 Mole, from which it derives its 
 name. (The Mole descends from 
 Exmoor, the springs of one of its 
 branches rising near “ Mole’s Cham- 
 ber. ”) Before the Conquest the 
 manor was included in the de- 
 mesne of the crown; but in the 
 reign of Edw. I. was held by Lord 
 Martyn of the Earl of Gloucester, 
 by the service of providing a man, 
 with a bow and 3 arrows, to attend 
 the earl when hunting in “ Gower,” 
 in Wales. A butcher of this place, 
 named Samuel Badcock , distinguished 
 himself by his learning. He was a 
 dissenting minister, and born in 
 1747. 
 
 The Perp. Church , which has been 
 well restored, is a very fine building. 
 The tower (140 ft. high, including 
 vane) is one of 3 ascribed to the same 
 architect ; the other two are Bishop’s 
 Nympton andChittlehampton. These 
 are locally known as “ Length,’’ 
 “ Strength,” and “ Beauty.” S. Mol- 
 ton is “ Strength,” a title which the 
 thick walls and massive buttresses at 
 once approve. Within the ch. is a 
 very fine stone pulpit (Perp.), much 
 resembling one at Chittlehampton. 
 The figures are modern. The tower 
 of Bishop’s Nympton (4 m. E.), although 
 only 100 ft, high, is “ Length ; ” but 
 it really is the highest in proportion 
 to the square of its base. There is a 
 Norman font in this ch. 
 
 Castle Hill , the seat of Earl For- 
 tescue, is about 3 m. distant on the 
 Barnstaple road. A triumphal arch, 
 and the artificial ruin of a castle, 
 crown hills near the house. The park 
 contains more than 800 acres, finely 
 
 wooded. The hall of Castle Hill is 
 decorated with stag-heads from Ex- 
 moor, the date and particulars of the 
 chace being inscribed under each 
 pair of antlers. The house was 
 much altered by Hugh Fortescue, 
 Lord Clinton, about 1740, at which 
 time the grounds were laid out. 
 They contain some evergreens of 
 great size. Castle Hill is in the 
 parish of Filleigh , and the property 
 here came to the Fortescues by the 
 marriage of Martin Fortescue, son 
 of Chief- Justice Fortescue (temp. 
 Hen. VI. He is the author of the 
 treatise “ in commendation of the 
 laws of England”), to the heiress 
 of Densell. The Church of Filleigh 
 was rebuilt by Lord Fortescue in 
 1732. In it are 2 Brasses for one 
 man — Bichard Fortescue, 1570. The 
 church of West Buckland , 2 m. N., 
 has an ancient screen. Middle-class 
 schools have been established at 
 West Buckland, with considerable 
 success. 
 
 Antiquaries have suggested that 
 the Roman station Termolus was 
 situated between South Molton and 
 Chulmleigh ; and that a Roman road 
 traversed the county from the neigh- 
 bourhood of Honiton to Stratton, 
 by Cadbury, Chulmleigh, Clovelly 
 Dikes, and Hartland. The Roman 
 road probably existed; but “ Ter- 
 molus ” is only mentioned by Richard 
 of Cirencester, and is therefore a 
 city of cloudland. 
 
 [North Molton, (Pop. 1842) is 3J m. 
 N. by E. of its sister town, and con- 
 tains a fine Perp. Church , restored in 
 1849. The screen is good, and richly 
 decorated ; the oak pulpit has niches 
 with the original figures painted and 
 gilt. The Perp. font is unusually fine ; 
 the octagonal basin is richly arcaded, 
 moulded, and foiled, and the stem has 
 figures under canopies. The tower, 
 not so fine as that of S. Molton, is 100 
 ft. high. Near the town are Court Hall 
 and Court House, old ivied mansions, 
 the property of Lord Poltimore, but the 
 
258 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford. 
 
 latter belonged formerly to the Earl 
 of Morley ; and in the hilly country, 
 away to the E.N.E. some 7 m., two 
 ancient manor-houses, now occupied 
 by farmers, but once the seats of the 
 families of Bottreaux and Columb. 
 Another curiosity is the Flitton Oak , a 
 giant of its kind, standing on a spot 
 where 3 roads meet, 2 m. N.W., 
 towards High Bray, on the property 
 of Lord Poltimore. At 1 foot from 
 the ground it measures 33 ft. in cir- 
 cumf., and at 7 ft. it branches into 
 8 enormous limbs. It is supposed to 
 be little less than 1000 years old. 
 The species, says Loudon, is Q. sessi- 
 liftora. Along the upward course of 
 the Mole the mining of copper has 
 been pursued from a very early time. 
 On the ascent of the beautiful 
 wooded valley we soon reach the 
 openings made by the “old men/' 
 and then the works of the Poltimore , 
 where both old and modern men 
 have been busy. The ores of the 
 copper here are the purple or “ Bor- 
 nite ** and grey, and the green carb., 
 but what renders the lode of par- 
 ticular interest is that the gossan 
 yields gold, at the rate, it is said, of 
 8 dwts. to the ton. Higher up the 
 stream are the Britannia and Prince 
 Regent, where the precious metal has 
 been found in grain; and still fur- 
 ther to the N. the Prince Albert 
 copper -mine. It should be said, 
 however, that, although Phillips 
 (‘ Mineralogy/ pub. 1823) and Ly- 
 sous assert that native gold has been 
 found here, “ imbedded in grains and 
 plates in a ferruginous fragmented 
 quartz rock, ” an examination of the 
 so-called “gold gossan ** found in 
 the N. Mol ton mines since 1850, has 
 failed to afford any trace of the pre- 
 cious metal.] 
 
 28 m. Portsmouth Arms Stat. f 
 
 where the inn is on the banks of the 
 Taw and the high road to Barnstaple. 
 
 32£ m. Umberleigh Stat ., on the road 
 from S. Molton to Torrington. There 
 
 is some picturesque scenery about 
 Umberleigh bridge, which here 
 crosses the Taw. 
 
 frt. 3 m. is Chittlehampton. The 
 Perp. Church has a magnificent 
 tower, “ the nearest approximation to 
 the highly ornamental structures of 
 Somersetshire in this county. There is 
 nothing in its detail which is not of the 
 most pure and faultless description ; 
 and the admirable grouping of thepin- 
 nacles, with its general arrangement 
 and proportion, leave it without a 
 rival in Devon/* It is “Beauty/* 
 whilst Bishop’s Nympton and S. Mol- 
 ton are “Length** and “Strength/* 
 This tower is later than the rest of 
 the church, and dates probably from 
 the reign of Hen. VII. In the church 
 is a stone pulpit, with figures and 
 canopies of excellent design. It is 
 of the same date as the tower. The 
 panelled roof of the N. chancel aisle 
 should be noticed. The ch. (restored 
 1872) is dedicated to St. Hieritha 
 (called St. Wuth), said to have been 
 born at Stowford, an adjoining ham- 
 let, and who, says Leland (Itin.), 
 “ suffered the next year after Thomas 
 Becket.** Nothing is really known 
 of her. Here are Brasses for John 
 Cobleigh and 2 wives, c. 1480.] 
 
 From Umberleigh station a road 
 passes L to Torrington (7 m.). At 
 1 m. on this road is 
 
 Atherington, where the ch., origin- 
 ally E. Eng., was greatly altered and 
 added to in the Perp. period. The 
 tower deserves notice ; but the great 
 feature is the magnificent roodscreen, 
 one of the finest examples in Devon- 
 shire. It retains the rood loft in a 
 state of perfection. The most per- 
 fect part is that which separates the | 
 N. nave aisle from that of the chancel. \ 
 It is of oak unpainted, rising nearly I 
 to the roof ; and displays a wonder- J 
 ful variety of details, some of which 
 (especially the ornaments in the j 
 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 259 
 
 Route 17 . — 
 
 groining) indicate the late period of 
 the work. Above the canopies are 
 pedestals for 5 figures. There is 
 some fine stained glass (fragments) 
 at E. end of chancel aisle ; and an 
 altar- tomb with Brasses for Sir Arthur 
 Basset and 2 wives, circ. 1 540. 
 
 The manor of Umberleigh extends 
 over this and the adjoining parish 
 of High Bickington. It has passed 
 through numerous hands. 
 
 Torrington , 6 m. beyond Athering- 
 ton ( Inn : Globe), is situated very 
 pleasantly on an eminence sloping to 
 the Torridge (pop. 3298). It is an 
 ancient place, containing fragments 
 of a castle founded by Richard de 
 Merton in the reign of Edw. III. 
 The site is now a bowling-green, and 
 commands an extensive view. 
 
 Torrington and its neighbourhood 
 have some historic associations. Gy- 
 tha, the mother of Harold, was en- 
 dowed with lands of this tything. 
 Torrington afterwards became the 
 head of a barony, which was pos- 
 sessed for 5 descents by a family 
 named from it. It was then divided 
 among co-heiresses, one of whom 
 married a member of the Merton 
 family, by whom the castle was 
 built. During the Rebellion stirring 
 incidents occurred in the town and on 
 the adjacent hills. In 1643 a body 
 of rebels advanced from Bideford 
 to attack Colonel Digby, who had 
 marched upon Torrington to cut off 
 the communication between the N. of 
 Devon and Plymouth. No sooner, 
 however, were they met by a few of the 
 Royalist troopers than they “routed 
 themselves,” to quote Clarenffon’s 
 words, and were pursued with much 
 slaughter. The consequences of this 
 action were the immediate surrender 
 of the fort of Appledore, and subse- 
 quently of the towns of Barnstaple 
 and Bideford. “ The fugitives,” says 
 Clarendon, 4 4 spread themselves over 
 the country, bearing frightful marks 
 of the fray, and telling strange stories 
 of the horror and fear which had 
 
 Torrington . 
 
 seized them, although nobody had 
 seen above six of the enemy that 
 charged them.” In 1646 the towns- 
 people were witness to a far more 
 fatal engagement, when Fairfax came 
 by night upon the quarters of Lord 
 Hopton. The action which ensued 
 was furious but decisive, and the 
 Royalists were totally defeated. Upon 
 this occasion the ch., together with 
 200 prisoners and those who guarded 
 them, were blown into the air by the 
 explosion of about 80 barrels of gun- 
 powder. The capture of Torrington 
 was the death-blow of the King’s cause 
 in the west. After the fall of the 
 town, the famous Hugh Peters, then 
 Chaplain to the Army, preached in 
 the market-place, and, according to 
 Whitelocke, made many converts 
 to the parliamentary cause. In 1660 
 the celebrated General Monk was 
 created Earl of Torrington. In 1689 
 the town gave the title of Earl to 
 Admiral Herbert; and, in 1720, of 
 Viscount to Sir George Byng. (The 
 Monks were seated for manjr genera- 
 tions at the manor-house of Pother idge, 
 near Merton , a village 7 m. distant, 
 between Torrington and Hatherleigh ; 
 but their mansion, sumptuously re- 
 built about 1670 by the General, 
 when Duke of Albemarle (he was 
 born at Potheridge), was pulled 
 down in the last centy. The stables, 
 however, remain to this day, and 
 will give the visitor some idea 
 of the magnificence of the ancient 
 building. Monk’s education, says 
 Clarendon, “had been only Dutch 
 and Devonshire,” — Potheridge for- 
 merly paid 31 per annum to the 
 rector of Merton, in lieu of his 
 Sunday’s dinner, and the keep of 
 his grey mare, to which he had been 
 entitled before this composition.) 
 
 The valley of the Torridge here is 
 rich in fine timber, and contains some 
 beautiful scenery. 
 
 2 m. N. E. of the town is Steven- 
 stone (Hon. Mark Rolle), standing in 
 a large and picturesque deer-park, 
 
260 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 17 , — Exeter to Bideford. 
 
 John Howe , a dissenting minister 
 of some celebrity, b. 1 630, lived for 
 several years at Torrington. 
 
 Captain Palmer, R. A., has here 
 a beautiful early portrait, by Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds , of Mrs. Field, sister- 
 in-law of the Rev. Joshua Reynolds, 
 as well as family portraits by William 
 Doughty. Sir Joshua’s eldest sister, 
 Mary, married John Palmer, Esq., 
 of Torrington. The house is near 
 the ch., and in its arrangements little 
 altered since Dr. Johnson dined in 
 it, 1762. 
 
 Torrington Ch., originally Dec., 
 suffered in the Civil War (see ante). 
 In the ch. of St. Giles-in-the-Wood , 
 3 m. E. (Stevenstone is in this par.), 
 are Brasses for Eleanor Pollard, 1430 ; 
 Margaret Rolle and children, 1592; 
 John Rolles, 1570 ; and Joan Risdon, 
 1610. There is a small ch. at Little 
 Torrington (2 m. S., pop. 563), which 
 has been excellently restored with 
 stained glass, & c. 
 
 (The scenery between Torrington 
 and Bideford well merits notice, the 
 oak being abundant. The road 
 skirts the river, and commands a 
 good view of the Aqueduct of the Tor- 
 ridge Canal , which crosses the valley 
 on 5 arches. This canal, completed 
 in 1824, was one of the patriotic 
 works of the late Lord Rolle. It 
 enters the river near Wear Gifford 
 about 3 m. from Torrington.) 
 
 At Wear Gifford , 2 m. N., is a very 
 curious manor-house, described g)ost, 
 Exc. from Bideford. 
 
 Annery , on the opposite side of the 
 river (W. Tardrew, Esq.), was for 
 a long period the seat of the Hank- 
 fords. Here was born and died Sir 
 William H., Chief Justice in the 
 reigns of Hen. V. and VI. ; the judge 
 who, according to the Devonshire 
 tradition, committed P. Henry. (Mr. 
 Foss, however, has shown that the 
 judge who committed P. Henry was 
 Sir William Gascoigne ; and that so 
 far from reappointing this judge on 
 his succession to the throne, Hen. V. 
 
 made Sir William Hankford Chief 
 Justice 8 days after he became king. 
 The scene and speech in Shakspeare’s 
 6 Hen. IV.’ (Pt. II., act 4, sc. 2) are 
 therefore not historical). His mo- 
 nument may be seen in Monkleigh 
 Ch. A local tradition asserts that he 
 was shot in his own park at Annery, by 
 his keeper, whom he had reprimanded 
 for negligence. He had “ plotted for 
 himself a violent death,” says West- 
 cote. An oak in the park, under 
 which he is said to have fallen, is still 
 called the “ Hankford oak.” The 
 old house was famous for a long 
 gallery (taken down in 1800), in 
 which 30 beds might be placed in 
 alcoves, on each side, so as not to be 
 seen. 
 
 At Frithelstock , 2j m. W., are the 
 remains of a priory, founded by 
 Robert de Beauchamp in the reign 
 of Hen. III. It was for Augustinian 
 Canons, who were brought here from 
 Hartland. The 2 houses remained 
 so far connected that the Abbot of 
 Hartland had a vote in the election 
 of the Prior of Frithelstock, and vice 
 versa. The annual revenue, at the 
 dissolution, was 127/. Part of the 
 Priory Church remains, with E.E. 
 windows, no doubt of the time of the 
 foundation. In the neighbourhood 
 of Torrington are Cross House (Mrs. 
 Stevens), at present occupied by Sir 
 Trevor Wheler, Bart. ; and about 
 6 m. towards Hatherleigli, Heanton 
 Satcheville (Lord Clinton), who has 
 interesting pictures, among them 
 Eastlake's portrait of Napoleon on 
 board the ‘ Bellerophou.’ 
 
 4^ m. from Umberleigh Stat. the 
 Rly. passes through some of the 
 prettiest scenery in the Taw valley, 
 where the ch. of Bishop's Tawton rises 
 on the rt., and 1. the house and 
 woods of Tawstock Court 9 seat of the 
 Wreys. 
 
 The view here was formerly said 
 to include the most valuable manor, 
 the best mansion, the finest ch.. 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 261 
 
 Route 17 . — Barnstaple . 
 
 and the richest rectory in the 
 county. Tawstock Court (Sir Bour- 
 chier P. Wrey, Bart.) was built in 
 1787. A gateway (1574) is the only 
 remnant of the mansion of the Bour- 
 chiers, occupied by Fairfax in 1 646 ; 
 but the park abounds in oaks which 
 have flourished in times long past. 
 There are fine views from the high 
 ground over Barnstaple and the bay. 
 Tawstock Church , very good Dec., 
 with Perp. windows inserted in the 
 nave, and a central tower, contains 
 some interesting monuments. The 
 earliest is a female figure in oak, 
 which may possibly represent Tho- 
 masine Hankford, granddaughter of 
 the Chief Justice who married Sir 
 William Bourchier, Lord Fitz warren, 
 and thus brought the Tawstock 
 estate to his family. Sir John Bour- 
 chier, Lord Fitz warren, was created 
 E. of Bath 1535. There are monu- 
 ments for, Frances Fitzwarren, d. 
 1586 ; for her son William, E. of 
 Bath, d. 1623, and his wife, d. 1605; 
 for Henry, Earl of Bath, d. 1654 ; for 
 his wife, and widow, the Countess 
 Rachael, a full length statue in white 
 marble. This lady, inconsolable for 
 the loss of her first husband, assuaged 
 her grief by a marriage with Lionel 
 Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex. In a 
 room over the vestry are fragments 
 of old armour and banners. Bishop's 
 Tawton , on the opposite side of the 
 valley, is said (but solely on Hoker’s 
 authority — there is no ancient evi- 
 dence) to have been the seat of the 
 Devonshire bishopric before the see 
 was fixed at Crediton. The manor 
 in all probability was part of the 
 originaL endowment. The church 
 (partially restored) is Perp., in- 
 cluding a very elegant spire, an 
 unusual feature in Devonshire. 
 
 39 i m, Barnstaple Stat. [Here 
 coaches meet certain of the trains 
 for Ilfracombe , and for Lynton (see 
 the next route). A rly. is in pro- 
 gress (1872) from Barnstaple to Ilfra- 
 combe. The direct turnpike-road to 
 
 Ilfracombe, 11 m.,is pleasant, but of 
 no special interest. The pedestrian 
 will do better to take the longer road 
 (12j m.) by Braunton , which is de- 
 scribed in the following route. The 
 coach-drive to Lynton by Paracombe 
 is a very beautiful one, but calls for 
 no special notice.] Pop. 8127. 
 
 Barnstaple , for brevity called 
 Barum — a “ diminutive” which seems 
 to have some cousinship with“Sa- 
 rum,” but which has not been satis- 
 factorily explained — (Inns : Golden 
 Lion, where notice a large handsome 
 room, with curiously ornamented 
 ceiling ; Fortescue Arms), the capital 
 of N. Devon, is much admired for its 
 position on a broad river and in a rich 
 vale. It boasts a considerable anti- 
 quity, and, favourably placed as it is, 
 just where the Taw ceases to be navi- 
 gable, may well have been a British 
 settlement. Athelstan is said to have 
 chartered it, and to have repaired the 
 town walls; and after the Conquest 
 it was dignified with a castle and a 
 priory, by Judhael of Totnes, the 
 latter dedicated to St. Mary Magda- 
 lene. No remains of these buildings 
 are now to be seen. The mound is the 
 only vestige of the castle ; and the 
 name of Close, or Maudlyn Bach Close, 
 of the priory. Athelstan’s charter is at 
 least doubtful ; but the town was cer- 
 tainly incorporated by Henry I,, and 
 has sent members to Parliament 
 since the reign of Edward I., at 
 which time the Barony of Barnstaple 
 was returned as having 28 knights’ 
 fees attached to it. The Castle, in 
 1350, was the “principle mansion 
 and inhabitance ” of James, Lord 
 Audley, famous for his share in the 
 battle of Poitiers, where the Black 
 Prince bestowed on him a pension 
 of 500 marks, which he gave at once 
 to his four esquires, saying that he 
 had received this honour by their 
 meahs. The Castle was in ruins 
 when Lei and visited Barnstaple ; 
 and Philip Wyott, town clerk, re- 
 cords that Dec. 19, 1601, part of the 
 
262 
 
 Route 1?. — Exeter to Bideford. Sect. I. 
 
 wall was blown down, “ and did no 
 harm, saving some ravens were 
 found dead, and belike sat within- 
 side the wall.” During the Civil 
 War there was much fighting in and 
 about Barnstaple, which Clarendon 
 (who was for some time Governor of 
 the town) pronounced “the most 
 miraculously fortified place that I 
 know.” Prince Charles was sent 
 here for some time for security, and 
 “ when he was at Barnstaple,” says 
 Clarendon, “ he gave himself his 
 usual licence of drinking.” On Fort 
 Hill , behind Ebberley Place, a site 
 commanding the town and all its 
 approaches, are traces of a very 
 considerable fort, which, from its 
 strength and excellent plan, may 
 almost justify Clarendon’s statement. 
 It was septangular, with bastions and 
 connecting curtains. In the Gram- 
 mar School here were educated 
 Bishop Jewell, his antagonist Hard- 
 ing, and Gay the poet, who was born 
 in the town, in a house still shown 
 at the corner of Joy Street. When 
 Incledon (whose family was con- 
 nected with Barnstaple) once visited 
 the town, he was shown this house, 
 and, late at night, he paid his 
 homage to Gay, by “ breaking into 
 song ” in the open street — going 
 through the most famous airs from 
 the ‘Beggar’s Opera.’ Some MS. 
 poems and papers of Gay’s were 
 found in 1818 in a secret drawer 
 under a chair, sold from a curiosity 
 shop in High Street. Among the 
 poems was the “Ladies’ petition,” 
 preferred by the “maids of Exon 
 city.” The chair had belonged to a 
 Mrs. Williams, a descendant of Gay’s 
 sister, who had possession of his 
 effects as next of kin. 
 
 The port of Barnstaple was of im- 
 portance at least as early as the reign 
 of Edward III. It sent 5 ships “ to 
 join Sir F. Drake at Plymouth” 
 against the Armada. The commerce 
 of the place was considerable; and 
 during the latter part of Elizabeth’s 
 reign the men of Barnstaple sent out 
 
 many ships “ on the account,” taking 
 one prize off the coast of Guinea 
 containing 4 chests of gold “ to the 
 value of 16 thousand pounds, divers 
 chains of gold, with civet and other 
 things of great value.” These “ re- 
 prisal” ships were sent out under 
 letters of marque. Wyott records 
 the marriage in 1603 of one Edward 
 Abbott and Elizabeth Morcombe, a 
 rich shipmaster’s daughter. He had 
 at first fared ill in his wooing ; 
 but being “ sent off to trade unto the 
 streights of Aleppo,” made his for- 
 tune, and returned to be accepted. 
 “ My Lord Bath and the Countess, 
 and many others, were present at 
 the wedding ” — a proof that a ship- 
 master of Barnstaple might be a man 
 of importance. 
 
 There is not much in Barnstaple to 
 interest the stranger, but the “ lions,” 
 such as they are, he will probably 
 like to visit. They may be enume- 
 rated as follows : — 
 
 The Church , dedicated to SS. Peter 
 and Paul, is not remarkable. Its 
 spire was shattered by a violent 
 thunder-storm in 1816. The build- 
 ing, which has been modernized, 
 contains a powerful organ. There 
 are some late monuments ; of which 
 those to one Ferris, Mayor of Barn- 
 staple, 1649 ; and Martin Blake, 
 Vicar, d. 1673, are the most notice- 
 able. Blake’s trials are duly re- 
 corded in Walker’s ‘Sufferings of 
 the Clergy.’ Two new churches, 
 that of the Holy Trinity (Macintosh, 
 architect), and that of St. Mary Mag- 
 dalene (Ferrey, architect), have been 
 built since 1845. 
 
 In the Guildhall are 31 portraits of 
 members of the Corporation of Barn- 
 staple, given to the town in 1730 by 
 its representatives in Parliament — 
 Chichester and Fortescue. They 
 were painted by Hudson ; and Rey- 
 nolds, who was then his pupil, is 
 said to have assisted in painting the 
 draperies. 
 
 The Bridge , supposed to have been 
 built in the 13th centy., was widened 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 268 
 
 Route 17 . — Barnstaple . 
 
 in 1834, and consists of 16 arches, 8 
 less than the bridge at Bideford. The 
 view from it is very pleasant; the 
 river Taw and its vale having a fine 
 background on the E., called Coddon 
 
 mu. 
 
 Queen Anne's Walk , on the town 
 quay, below the bridge, is a colonnade 
 intended originally for an Exchange. 
 It was rebuilt by the corporation in 
 1798, and was named from a statue 
 of Queen Anne, presented by Rolle, 
 of Steven stone, in 1708. 
 
 The North Walk , a little lower on 
 the same side, is a promenade by the 
 side of the river, and planted with 
 trees, after the fashion of the 
 French. 
 
 The “ gibbet” was set upon the 
 Castle Green in 1590; and in the 
 same year “ 4 of Plymouth for a 
 murder ” were hanged there. These 
 were Ulalya Page, her lover George 
 Strangwidge, and two others, — all 
 concerned in “ the lamentable 
 tragedy of Page of Plymouth” — 
 famous in old broadsides and ballads. 
 Mistress Page killed her husband 
 for Strangwidge’s sake ; and the 
 tradition runs that she was con- 
 demned by her own father, Judge 
 Glanville, whose monument remains 
 in Tavistock Church. (Rte. 14.) — 
 In 1595 the Bp. of Exeter (Babing- 
 ton, who came to the see in that 
 year) “ confirmed divers children 
 on the Castle Green the people 
 crowded into the town to see him ; 
 but he suddenly went to his lodgings 
 and departed. “The people,” says 
 Wyott, “lamented they had lost a 
 fine harvest day.” 
 
 . Barnstaple is distinguished as the 
 birthplace of Lord Chancellor Fortes - 
 cue, 1422. It is noted in the county 
 for a large fair, called pre-eminently 
 the Barnstaple Fair , which begins on 
 the 19th of September, and is at- 
 tended by some ancient customs. 
 On the morning of its proclamation 
 the mayor and corporation meet their 
 friends in the council-chamber, and 
 
 partake of spiced toast and ale ; and 
 during its continuance a glove decked 
 with dahlias is protruded on a pole 
 from a window. Upon the second 
 day a stag is hunted on Exmoor, and 
 the incidents of the sport are some- 
 times as amusing as those of the far- 
 famed field-days atEpping. The town 
 has a manufacture of lace, and several 
 potteries are at work in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The clay is found in the 
 adjoining parish of Fremington. Cla- 
 rendon informs us that in the Re- 
 bellion, when Sir Richard Grenville 
 was stationed at Okehampton, he 
 formed the strange design of cutting 
 a deep trench from Barnstaple to the 
 English Channel, a distance of about 
 40 m., by which, he said, he would 
 defend all Cornwall, and so much of 
 Devon, against the world. Lady Fan- 
 shawe, in her curious Memoirs, speaks 
 of Barnstaple as “one of the finest 
 towns in England.” “They have,” 
 she says, “near this town, a fruit 
 called a massard, like a cherry, but 
 different in taste, which makes the 
 best pies with their sort of cream I 
 ever eat.” The visitor should decide 
 this question of taste for himself ; but 
 let him on no account omit “their 
 sort of cream.” 
 
 Edward Capern, the poet and 
 “ rural postman,” was bora at Tiver- 
 ton, but came early in life to Barn- 
 staple, and for some time he lived 
 here. He long served as postman 
 in the district between Barnstaple 
 and Bideford. The curious journal 
 of Philip Wyott, from 1586 to 1608, 
 is printed at length by Mr. J. R. 
 Chanter, in his ‘ Sketches of the 
 Literary Hist, of Barnstaple/ Wyott 
 was town clerk. 
 
 Good views of the town are to be 
 obtained from Coddon Hill (E. alt. 
 623 ft.) and from the Bideford road. 
 Pleasant walks are to be found on the 
 1. bank of the Taw, E. and W. from 
 the end of the bridge. On that side 
 of the river is the rail of the N. Devon 
 Extension, completed 1855 to Bide- 
 ford. Fremington, the first station, is 
 
264 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford . 
 
 the boundary of the deep water, the 
 channel near Barnstaple being choked 
 by sand. It is 6 m. from Barnstaple 
 to the mouth of the river. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are TJpcott, 
 Pilton House (J. Whyte, Esq.), 
 Brynsworthy , (S. T. M. May, ' 
 
 Esq.), Bickington House (C. Roberts, ! 
 Esq.) Raleigh House , anciently a 
 seat of the Raleighs, was long since 
 converted into a woollen factory, and 
 subsequently into a lace-mill. Acland ; 
 (Oakland), in the par. of Landkey, 
 is the “ cradle ” of a family than 
 which none is or has been more 
 honoured in Devonshire. The house, 
 on a small scale, is of the 15th 
 centy. The hall is perfect, but has 
 been divided by a floor. From the 
 hill above is a grand view of the 
 estuary of the Taw, the Channel, 
 and Lundy Isle. About 4 m. N.E. 
 is Youlston Park (Sir Arthur Chi- 
 chester, Bart.), and 6 m. id the 
 same direction Arlington Court (Sir 
 Alexander P. B. Chichester, Bart.). 
 
 [In Pilton ch., m. N., a stand for 
 the hour-glass, in the shape of a 
 man’s arm, is still affixed to the pul- 
 pit. One of the bells of the ch. bears 
 this rhyming inscription : — 
 
 “ Recast by John Taylor and Son, 
 
 Who the best prize for church bells won 
 
 At the Great Ex-hi-bi-ti-on 
 
 In London, 1 — 8 — G and 1. ” 
 
 Over the porch is this inscription : — 
 “ The tower of this parish being by 
 force of arms pulled down in the 
 late unhappy civil wars, a.d. 1646, 
 was rebuilt 1696.” 
 
 At Marvcood , 3 m. N. of Barnstaple, 
 there is a fine Perp. ch., with much 
 excellent carved work. The tower is 
 handsome, and there is a good E. Eng. 
 piscina. 
 
 The ch. of Swimbridge , 5 m. on the 
 road to S. Molton (late Perp. with 
 Dec. tower), contains a beautiful 
 screen (Perp.), a stone pulpit, and 
 a specimen of that anomaly the 
 
 humorous epitaph. It is to the me- 
 mory of John Rosier, attorney and 
 “ Aujicient of Lyon’s Inn,” and 
 begins — 
 
 “ Loe with a warrant seal’d by God’s decree, 
 Death, his grim sergeant, hath arrested me.” 
 
 It runs through a dozen lines in a 
 similar strain.] 
 
 42 J m. Fremington St at. At Fre- 
 mington House (W. A. Yeo, Esq.) is 
 a fine collection of exotics. 
 
 46 m. Instow Quay Stat., a small 
 but rising watering-place (pop. 
 614), situated at the junction of 
 the Taw and the Torridge. It 1 
 has a view of the sea, of Lundy 
 Island, the Barnstaple Bar, the sands 
 of Braunton Burrows, Northam 
 Tower, commonly called Chanter’s 
 Folly, as built by a person of that! 
 name, and of the busy village of 
 Appledore. (There is a ferry from 
 Instow to Appledore, whence the 
 walk across Northam Burrows tc ■ 
 Westward Ho (about 2^ m., see^ostf j 
 is not unpleasant. From Westward; 
 Ho you may return to Bideford by 
 omnibus, and thence by rail tel 
 Instow). Good boating and se^i 
 fishing are to be had from Instow 
 A pleasant road leads from Instov) 
 Quay along the shore of the river j 
 passing Tapeley Park (Mrs. Clevi 
 land; notice obelisk in front of thi 
 house, in memory of that lady’s sor I 
 Cornet Clevland, 17th Lancers! 
 killed at Inkermann). 
 
 - 
 
 3 m. by this road, 48^ from Ex< 
 ter by rail, is Bideford Stat., i. 
 By-the-Ford (the full name is sail 
 to have been “ Renton by the ford 
 but if this was so, the “Renton* 
 
 . has long since disappeared.) Po 
 5742. (Inns: New Inn; Tantor; 
 Family Hotel ; Commercial In 
 Small steamers, during the summ< 
 run occasionally to Ilfracombe, a ! 
 now and then to Lundy Island). T1 j 
 town, considering the unpretei; 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 265 
 
 Route 17 .- 
 
 ing character of the surrounding 
 scenery, is as prettily placed as any in 
 Devonshire. It is built in wide, airy 
 streets (the newer part ; the streets 
 of old Bideford are by no means wide 
 or airy), on a hillside shelving to the 
 water, and commands delightful views 
 of the broad meandering Torridge and 
 its vale. These are seen to advantage 
 from the bridge and the windows of 
 the New Inn. Towards the sea the 
 river is adorned by the woods of Tape- 
 ley, the Tower of Northam, and the 
 villas of Instow. In the other direc- 
 tion it winds glistening for a little dis- 
 tance, and then loses itself among the 
 folds of the hills, the sweeps of which 
 are particularly graceful. It is navi- 
 gable to Wear Gifford, from which 
 place there is a canal to Great Tor- 
 rington. Bideford is mentioned in 
 Domesday as “ terra regis,” but it 
 soon passed to the Grenvilles, who 
 remained lords of the place until 
 about the middle of the last centy. 
 It had become a “ borough ” (by 
 charter from the Grenvilles) and 
 was of some importance before the 
 reign of Eliz., but it was not until 
 after the discovery of Virginia by 
 
 0 Sir Rich. Grenville, in 1585, that 
 a the enterprise and commerce of the 
 f town were fully developed. The 
 y merchants of Bideford, like their 
 
 neighbours of Barnstaple, were active 
 ' in fitting out privateers, and in 
 l i( scouring the seas for French and 
 )0 Spanish prizes. Defoe, at the end 
 of Queen Anne’s reign, describes 
 Bideford as one of the best trading 
 towns in England, “sending every 
 year great fleets to Newfoundland 
 , and the W . Indies, particularly Vir- 
 
 1 ginia.” The Newfoundland fisheries 
 ,a were long the chief source of the 
 r ’ ^ell doing of the place; but the 
 ! French interfered with them; the 
 °* trade passed away, and, except a 
 [on few vessels in the timber trade, 
 
 111 Bideford has now no foreign com- 
 $ merce. 
 
 'fj The Bridge is a favourite prome- 
 111 nade of the inhabitants. It is 677 ft. 
 ' tsD [Dev. Sg Corn.'] 
 
 — Bideford . 
 
 in length, and spans the river on 24 
 pointed arches. It was erected about 
 the beginning of the 14th cent, by Sir 
 Theobald Grenville, who, according 
 to a legend, was encouraged in the 
 work by a vision which appeared to 
 one Gornard, a priest. Attempts 
 having often been fruitlessly made to 
 discover a foundation, Father Gor- 
 nard was admonished in a dream to 
 search for a rock which had been 
 rolled from the hill into the river. 
 This was told to Sir Theobald, who 
 set workmen to look for the stone. 
 It was soon discovered, and on this 
 solid basis the bridge was thrown 
 across. This was widened in 1864 
 by a cast-iron roadway ; and cast- 
 iron battlements were added, spoiling 
 it in so far as picturesque effect is 
 concerned. Adjoining the bridge is a 
 broad quay, 1200 ft. long, which also 
 forms a very agreeable walk. 
 
 The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, 
 dated from the 14th centy., and in 
 1738-9 was the curacy of Uervey , 
 author of 4 Meditations among the 
 Tombs.’ The old ch. was entirely 
 spoilt by churchwardenisms of various 
 dates and eccentricities ; and having 
 become almost ruinous, was pulled 
 down in 1862. A good Perp. edifice 
 has replaced it. In the churchyard 
 is the following epitaph : — 
 
 “ Here lies the body of Mary Sexton, 
 
 Who pleased many a man, but never vex’d 
 
 one : 
 
 Not like the woman who lies under the next 
 
 stone.” 
 
 Steamers run between Bideford 
 and Bristol (touching at Ilfracombe) 
 throughout the year. 
 
 On the hill opposite Bideford the 
 stranger will notice a small battle- 
 mented structure, called Chudleigh 
 Fort , which was built by Major-Gen. 
 Chudleigh at the breaking out of the 
 Rebellion. It shortly afterwards sur- 
 rendered to the king’s troops, under 
 Colonel Digby. The hill commands 
 an excellent view of Bideford and 
 the surrounding country. 
 
 In the year 1646 Bide ford was 
 N 
 
266 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford . 
 
 ravaged by the plague, but in 1832 
 and '49 it escaped the cholera. There 
 is a monument in the ch. to a Mr. 
 Strange, who made himself remark- 
 able for his charity during the plague 
 of 1646. The town is considered 
 one of the healthiest in the county. 
 Among its natives was John Shebbeare, 
 the political writer, who paid the 
 penalty of a libel in the pillory at 
 Charing Cross. He was born in 
 1709, and is best known by his ‘ Let- 
 ters to the People of England/ 
 
 The neighbourhood, besides the 
 pebble ridge and the raised beaches 
 at Westward Ho (see post), pos- 
 sesses much interest for the geo- 
 logist. Beds of anthracite stretch 
 across the hills from Bideford to 
 Chittlehampton, the principal seam 
 having an average thickness of 
 7 ft. The mineral has been ex- 
 tracted, like the metallic ores, by 
 mining; but the beds are of such 
 irregular thickness that a heavy ex- 
 pense attends their working ; 58 tons 
 in the week have, however, been 
 produced by one of the pits. An- 
 thracite is used chiefly for drying 
 malt and lime-burning. In a decom- 
 posed state it makes a black paint. 
 Between Peppercombe and Portledge 
 Mouth in Bideford Bay is an outlying 
 patch of new red sandstone , 17 or 18 m. 
 from the nearest points of that forma- 
 tion at Hatherleigh and Jacobstow ; 
 and at Orleigh Court a few isolated 
 acres of greensand , yet further re- 
 moved from its kindred hills. The 
 gravel or sand of the Torridge is 
 converted into hollow bricks, tiles, 
 &c., in the North Devon Pottery , near 
 the town. 
 
 There are many pleasant walks in 
 the neighbourhood, viz. down the 1. 
 bank of the river; along the new 
 Torrington road to Yeo Vale (Mrs. 
 Morison) and Orleigh Court ( — Lee, 
 Esq.), about 5 m. distant, the latter 
 estate containing a remarkable outly- 
 ing patch of greensand, 36 m. from 
 the greensand of Great Haldon ; and 
 along the rt. bank of the river to the 
 
 village of Wear Gifford , 4 m., where 
 there is an oak mentioned by Loudon 
 as 28 ft. in circumference, and as co- 
 vering with its head a space 92 ft. in 
 diameter. Other seats near the town 
 are, Morton House (Sir G. S. Stucley, 
 Bart.), and Abbotsham Court (J. It. 
 Digby-Beste, Esq.). Portledge (J. R. 
 Pine-Coffin, Esq.), has belonged to 
 the family of Coffin for many j 
 centuries. 
 
 At Wear Giffard is an ancient house! 
 (property of Earl Fortescue), one of] 
 the most interesting in Devonshire. . 
 It is of the 15th cent., with embattled 
 tower gateway, and was for many! 
 years used as a farmhouse, but has, 
 been recently restored as an occasiona 
 residence by its proprietor. The wal| 
 which surrounded the outer courts 
 was so injured in the Rebellion, tha 
 only the gatehouse and doorways rej 
 main. The hall occupies the centre 
 between gabled wings, and has : 
 handsome roof, with hammer-beams 
 tracery, cusping, and pendants, oi 
 superior detail. The house itself cor. 
 tains panelling exquisitely workec 
 antique pictures and tapestry. Th 
 Giffards became lords of the mane : 
 of Wear Giffard at a period soo : 
 after the Conquest. It passed througj 
 heiresses to the Trewin and Dens 
 families, and again through an heire 
 (temp. Hen. VI.) to the Fortescue 
 It was perhaps the first Fortescue < 
 Weare (a son of Henry VI/s Chi 
 Justice) who built the existing hous ; 
 The Ch. has Dec. nave and chancdj 
 with very fine Perp. roof in the latte 
 There is an altar-tomb with GiffaJ 
 effigies; and some 17th-centy. Fc 
 tescue monuments. Read the insert? 
 tion on that of Hugh Fortescue, 
 1648. Here is also a modern Brim 
 by Hayward, of Exeter. 
 
 On the church door of Horwoodm 
 village about 3 m. E., was, uni 
 very recently, a horse shoe, kno’ i 
 as “ Michael Joseph’s badge.” T * 
 was a shoe thrown by the horse f 
 Joseph, the 4 4 horse farrier ” f 
 
Devonshire:. 
 
 Route 17 . — Westward Ho. 
 
 267 
 
 “blacksmith” of Bodmin, who, in 
 1497, led the insurgent Cornishmen, 
 who marched to London and were 
 defeated on Blackheath. Their 
 complaint was that a tax of great 
 severity had been imposed, and that 
 they were unable to pay it. At 
 Wells they were joined by Lord 
 Audley, whom they made ’ their 
 leader. They passed through Hor- 
 wood to the number of 1 6,000 men, 
 and Joseph, it is said, himself 
 nailed the shoe to the ch. door. 
 
 At Bideford the rly. ends at pre- 
 sent : but it is proposed to extend it 
 to the newly established watering- 
 place of Westward Ho, 3 m. N.W. 
 At present (1872) an omnibus runs 
 twice daily between Bideford and 
 Westward Ho. 
 
 In Bideford and its neighbourhood, 
 it need hardly be said, are laid 
 many of the finest scenes in Mr. 
 Kingsley’s romance of 4 Westward 
 Ho/ a handbook which every visi- 
 tor to the place is strongly recom- 
 mended to study. The road to the 
 hew “settlement” of Westward Ho 
 passes (at 8 m. from Bideford) 
 through the village of Northam ; rt. 
 of which, nearer to the estuary, is 
 S1 the old house of Borough , the home 
 3 of Amyas Leigh — the hero of the 
 8 tale. The family of Leigh were 
 o owners of this place for many gene- 
 i f rations. Northam is a long s trag- 
 ic gling village, with a Perp. ch. of no 
 is great interest. The manor was 
 te given by the Conqueror to his own 
 at foundation — the monastery of St. 
 V Stephen at Caen. Pleasant views 
 ri j over Bideford Bay, of the projecting 
 !, coast beyond the estuary, and of the 
 If* country between Instow and the 
 river, open as the road descends 
 i ; from the village of Northam towards 
 hd the level known as Northam Burrows , 
 ioi on which the new watering-place 
 T1 has been founded. 
 
 #|[ 
 
 Westward Ho. (. Hotels : Westward 
 
 Ho Hotel, best) the property of the 
 company which founded the place. 
 This occupies a good site, is comfort- 
 able and well - managed, with a 
 reasonable tariff. Pebble Ridge 
 Hotel at the N. end of the village. 
 A large hoarding house called the 
 Villa , in connection with the West- 
 ward Ho Hotel, affords very good 
 accommodation (at a reasonable 
 rate) for those who desire quiet. 
 Lodgings are numerous. The usual 
 charge here during the “season” 
 (the latter end of summer and 
 autumn) is one guinea a week for 
 each room required. 
 
 Westward Ho consists at present 
 of two or three rows of terraces, 
 many scattered villas, a single line 
 of shops, and a ch. nearly opposite 
 the principal hotel. The ch. is more 
 effective within than on the exterior. 
 It is a daughter ch. of Northam, 
 and was built ip 1867. Indeed 
 almost every building here is a 
 modern erection ; and a single farm- 
 house alone existed before the “ Com- 
 pany ” was formed for the purpose 
 of creating a new watering-place. 
 The advantages of Westward Ho 
 are — quiet, which would be called 
 dulness by those who delight in the 
 bustle and glitter of Torquay or 
 Ilfracombe ; the wide stretch of the 
 beautiful bay, with Lundy Island 
 rising like a long ark on the water, 
 S.W., and the cliffs of Braun ton 
 stretching away to Baggy Point, N. 
 (for notice of the bay see Rte. 18); 
 a singularly pure and bracing air ; 
 a long reach of tolerably firm sands ; 
 and facilities for easily visiting some 
 of the most beautiful coast scenery 
 in N. Devon. It may be added that 
 there is a golf club at Westward Ho, 
 with its playing-ground on Northam 
 Burrows. Clovelly is distant 12 m. 
 W., and may be the object of a 
 pleasant day’s excursion. Ilfra- 
 combe may be easily reached from 
 Barnstaple ; or the pedestrian may 
 cross from Appledore to Braunton, 
 and walk round the coast bv Morte 
 N 2 ‘ 
 
268 Route 17 . — Exeter to Bideford. 
 
 Bay ami Morte Point (see Rte. 18). 
 Starting from Westward Ho, also, 
 lie may proceed by Clovelly to Hart- 
 laud, and thence by Morwenstow 
 and Bude to the N. coast of Corn- 
 wall. He will lind resting-places at 
 Clovelly and Hartland : but the 
 last day’s walk will probably be 
 a long one, since he will find no 
 good accommodation at Morwenstow. 
 (The distance from Clovelly to Bude 
 is 18 m., but by Hartland and Mor- 
 wenstow it is considerably longer.) 
 Westward Ho is, however, more to 
 be sought as a temporary resting- 
 place than for any striking attrac- 
 tions of its own. The coast is flat, 
 and not very picturesque. The 
 ground rises on the S. side of the 
 Burrows, and from the highest point 
 there is a very beautiful view into 
 Clovelly Bay, with Hartland Point 
 in the distance. There is a pleasant 
 walk over the fields to Bideford ; and 
 the village of Appledore is worth a 
 visit. 
 
 The first object to which strangers 
 are attracted is, however, the Pebble 
 Ridge , a long and wide barrier of 
 large pebbles extending between the 
 sea and the alluvial flat of Northam 
 Burrows. This sandy, grassy plain 
 is scarcely above the level of spring 
 tide high water ; and would be ex- 
 posed to destructive inundations 
 were it not for the natural break- 
 water, the pebbles of which are of 
 the carboniferous grit of the district, 
 varying from b in. to a yard in mean 
 diameter. The ridge extends for 
 about 2 m. in a straight line, and is 
 about 50 ft. wide, and twenty ft. 
 high. It is singularly uniform and 
 compact ; on one side sloping steeply 
 to the turf of the Burrows, on the 
 other, at a less inclination to the 
 tidal strand ; which at first consists 
 of small pebbles, of which the great 
 majority are also of grit. Beyond, 
 to the low-water line, the strand is 
 of fine sand, beneath, and often 
 projecting through which, are masses 
 of blue clay and vegetable matter, 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 containing roots, trunks, and branch- 
 es of trees. This is the “ submerged 
 forest of Barnstaple Bay.” To ac- 
 count for the ridge and its relation 
 to this submerged forest, it has 
 been suggested that the ridge was 
 at first formed much farther out into , 
 the bay, that the wood grew on the 
 landw T ard side of it, and that a gra- 
 dual movement inward of the ridge 
 destroyed and submerged the forest. ] 
 The difficulties which this view has 
 to surmount have been w r ell pointed 
 out by Mr. Pcngelly, — who asserts 
 that the Pebble Ridge “ is by no < 
 means unique. In a more or less 
 pronounced form such accumulations ij 
 may be said to be numerous. One of 
 greater extent, and just as striking, 
 exists on the shore of Porlock Bay, in 
 W. Somerset.” The pebbles here, he 
 continues, certainly came from the , 
 cliffs westward of the ridge, between- 
 Northam Burrows and Hartland. 
 Point. “ The cliffs consist of carbo- ‘ 
 niferous grit. So do the pebbles. 
 The beds of which the cliffs are! 
 formed fall an easy prey to the vio-J 
 lent waves . . . their ruins take'' 
 the form of rhombohedrons, alb 
 having a striking family likeness.j 
 whether we compare with one an* I 
 other the blocks just dislodged, tlios(| 
 which have been rolled for a shori| 1 
 time only, or those which havi| 
 reached their limit of transform* 
 tion. They occur at the foot of till 1 
 cliffs in every form, — fresh angulaJ 
 masses, sub-angular boulders wind! 
 have undergone some wear and tear 
 and almost perfect ellipsoids. The 
 load the entire strand from Hart! 
 land Point to Northam. All beaclu ; 
 travel in definite and constant direr! 
 tions, which depend on the trend <| 
 the coast, the set of the tides, an! 
 the prevalent winds. Thus cor! 
 trolled, the pebbles on the southeijl 
 shore of Barnstaple Bay travel froj! 
 the western cliffs eastward to No, : 
 tham strand. . . . The rapid rivej 
 (Taw and Torridge) prevent thd 
 being carried further. That thi 
 
200 
 
 Devonshire. Route 17 . — Westward Ho — Appledore. 
 
 should either he heaped up on the 
 landward margin of the beach, or 
 retreat into the deep waters of the 
 hay is inevitable. The low- lying, 
 extensive plain, unlike a precipitous 
 cliff, sets no limit to the distance to 
 which the breakers may lling them 
 up. Accordingly, very many are 
 cast beyond the grasp of the retreat- 
 ing wave, and hence the ridge.” — 
 Trans, of Devon Assoc, vol. ii., 420-1. 
 
 The pebbles below the forest clay, 
 Mr. Pengelly considers to have come 
 from the same cliffs, and to have 
 been brought here by the same 
 causes. The submergence of the 
 forest he regards as due to a subsi- 
 dence of the land. The plants and 
 trees certainly grew in the position 
 they now occupy. The species found 
 among them are all recent, such as 
 now inhabit the adjacent dry lands ; 
 and remnants of forests of precisely 
 similar kind are found all round the 
 British islands — in Tor Bay, and in 
 Mount Bay for example. 
 
 Westward from the ridge rises a 
 low cliff, which at a short distance 
 gives place to one somewhat higher. 
 This is resolvable into 3 portions, 
 — 1st, an old platform or terrace of 
 denudation, terminating in an almost 
 vertical cliff, 15 or 20 ft. upon the 
 level of the existing tidal strand. 
 2nd. On this shelf are remnants of 
 an old raised beach, about 7 ft. thick, 
 with pebbles resembling those below. 
 “ The two beaches, in fact, like the 
 platforms on which they lie, differ 
 only in one being high and ancient, 
 the other low and modern.” 3rd. 
 The old beach is capped with a sub- 
 aerial accumulation or “ Head ” vary- 
 ing from 5 to 20 ft. in thickness. It 
 should here be added that on the N. 
 side of the bay there is also a raised 
 beach of considerable extent. This 
 is first seen at the northern ex- 
 tremity of Braunton Burrows, and 
 is traceable round the western end 
 of 8aunton Down into Croyde Bay, 
 and thence, after some interruption, 
 to Baggy Point (see more, Rte. 18). 
 
 The forest and the beaches indicate 
 that there have been two distinct 
 movements of the coast— a subsi- 
 dence, and an upheaval. It seems 
 probable that the elevation preceded 
 the depression ; but this is not quite 
 certain. Both changes must have 
 occurred within the Recent or Ter- 
 tiary period. Bones and teeth of 
 mammalia, but much decomposed, 
 have been found in the forest bed. 
 A large species of deer was among 
 them. There is a curious tradition 
 that the oak-trees used for the roof 
 and seats of Braunton Cli. grew in 
 a forest which formerly occupied the 
 site of the Burrows, and that they 
 were drawn thence to the ch. by 
 reindeer. Broken flints, flint cores, 
 flakes, and flint implements (?) have 
 also been found in the submerged 
 forest. 
 
 The visitor should walk to the 
 eastern end of the ridge, near the 
 estuary of the rivers. At low water 
 the dangerous bar is seen, stretching 
 athwart the mouth of the estuary; 
 and on the Braunton Burrows oppo- 
 site, are the 2 lighthouses, which 
 are to be brought into one by a vessel 
 standing for the harbour. 
 
 The village of Appledore is in- 
 teresting for its antiquity, and 
 for a legend of the Danish 
 warrior Hubba, who is said to.have 
 landed near this village, in the- 
 reign of Alfred, from a fleet of 33 
 ships, and to have laid siege to a 
 neighbouring castle, called Kenwith, 
 the site of which is now only sur- 
 mised to be a hill called Ilenny 
 Castle (near Kenwith Lodge , Dr. Hey- 
 wood’s), N.W. of Bideford. The 
 strength of this place, however, 
 proved too great for its assailants. 
 Hubba was slain under its walls, and 
 his followers driven with slaughter 
 to the shore. At one spot, it is said, 
 they rallied, and so checked their 
 pursuers as to be enabled to regain 
 their ships ; and a field by the road- 
 side, near the village of Northam, is 
 
270 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 to this day pointed out as the place 
 where they turned, and has been 
 known from time immemorial as the 
 Bloody Conier. Biorn Irouside, the 
 companion of Hubba, was slain in 
 this headlong retreat, and the ma- 
 gical Raven banner was taken by the 
 English. It was a black bird, pro- 
 bably a stuffed specimen of the raven, 
 which hung quiet when defeat was 
 at hand, but clapped its wings before 
 victory. Hubba, we are told, w r as 
 buried beneath a cairn on the shore, 
 and the name of Hubblestone — given 
 to a flat rock near the quay at 
 Appledore — is said to mark the 
 locality. This defeat took place in 
 Devonshire (Sax. Chron. ad ann. 
 877-78); but the identification of 
 the site with Henny Castle is quite 
 uncertain. 
 
 ROUTE 18. 
 
 LYNMOUTH AND LYNTON TO HART- 
 LAND, BY COMBE MARTIN, ILFRA- 
 COMBE (BARNSTAPLE), AND CLO- 
 VELLY. 
 
 This route embraces the w hole of 
 the grand coast scenery of N. Devon. 
 Lynton may be reached from Barn- 
 staple (see the preceding route) or 
 from Taunton, by Watchet and Por- 
 loek (a very fine and striking ap- 
 proach). This latter line is described 
 in Kte. 19. 
 
 Lynmouth. (Inn: Lyndale Hotel*) 
 
 Lynton . (Inns : Castle Hotel ; Valley 
 of Rocks; Crown ; Globe. The 
 ‘Castle’ and ‘Valley of Rocks’ are 
 the best. The Inn at Lynmouth is 
 in the valley ; those at Lynton are 
 on high ground, commanding fine 
 views.) At Lynton telescopes are 
 employed at the rival houses for the 
 prompt discovery of the approaching 
 traveller. He had better, therefore, 
 determine beforehand on his inn, or 
 he may become a bone of contention 
 to a triad of postboys, who wait with 
 additional horses at the bottom of 
 the hill to drag the carriage to its 
 destination. 
 
 Lynton and Lynmouth (pop. 1043), 
 are situated on the outskirts of Ex- 
 moor, amid scenes far finer than any 
 other of the southern counties can 
 boast ; characterised by subalpine 
 valleys, impetuous streams, wild 
 gloomy ridges, and precipices and 
 crags which would elicit admiration 
 even in mountainous Wales. Two 
 noisy torrents here effect a junction 
 close upon the sea, the E. Lyn flow- 
 ing with hoarse murmurs down a 
 magnificent ravine, the W. Lyn wind- 
 ing through a less imposing but 
 lonely and richly wooded valley. 
 So sharp is the descent of these rivers 
 from the moor, that they suddenly 
 swell after rain of any continuance, 
 and at these times present a spectacle 
 of grandeur which the beholder will 
 not easily forget. 
 
 Lynmouth is seated at the mouth 
 of these formidable streams, and is 
 shut in hy a precipice called Ly n Cliff 
 and fir-clad heights. A steep winding 
 road leads from Lynmouth to Lynton, 
 which is not placed in quite so inter- 
 esting a position as its neighbour, but 
 is raised above the noise of the tor- 
 rent, and commands a view of the 
 dark ridges of Exmoor, and of that 
 which separates Lyndale from the sea. 
 
 Lynmouth is thus described by 
 Southey: — “ My walk to Ilfracombe 
 led me through Lynmouth, the 
 finest spot, except Cintra and the 
 Arrabida, that I ever saw. Two 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 271 
 
 Route 18 .- 
 
 rivers join at Lynmouth. You pro- 
 bably know the liill-streams of De- 
 vonshire; each of these flows down 
 a combe, rolling down over huge 
 stones like a long waterfall; imme- 
 diately at their junction they enter 
 the sea, and the rivers and the sea 
 make but one sound of uproar. Of 
 these combes, the one is richly wooded 
 — the other runs between 2 high, 
 bare stoney hills. From the hill be- 
 tween the two is a prospect most mag- 
 nificent ; on either hand combes, and 
 the river before the little village— the 
 beautiful little village, which, I am 
 assured by one who is familiar with 
 Switzerland, resembles a Swiss vil- 
 lage. This alone would constitute 
 a view beautiful enough to repay the 
 weariness of a long journey ; but, to 
 complete it, there is the blue and 
 boundless sea, for the faint and feeble 
 line of the Welsh coast is only to be 
 seen on the rt. hand if the day be 
 perfectly clear.” 
 
 A week or a fortnight may well be 
 passed at either of these places. Lyn- 
 ton is generally preferred by visitors 
 who spend their time in exploring the 
 neighbourhood, but Lynmouth has 
 greater charms as a residence, and 
 will be chosen by those who like to 
 have a mountain scene always in 
 view, and to watch the clouds curling 
 about the heights. The neighbour- 
 hood is a paradise for anglers; the 
 Lyns, and the other streams of Ex- 
 moor, swarm with trout, and their 
 pursuit necessarily leads the fisher- 
 man through wild and romantic 
 scenes. The mode of lionising the 
 ! neighbourhood is on pony or donkey - 
 - back, or, far better, on foot. The 
 roads are ill adapted for carriages, 
 
 \\ being steep and circuitous. Posting 
 his therefore both tedious and expen- 
 j sive. The stranger should be in- 
 l! formed that the hotels will board him 
 I by the week at a cheaper rate than 
 they will furnish bed and meals 
 separately, and that the charge for 
 ponies is less when they are taken by 
 the day. 
 
 - Lynmouth . 
 
 (The church of Lynton, of little 
 general interest, has been restored 
 by the care of the present (1872) 
 vicar.) 
 
 The chief points of interest in the 
 neighbourhood are — 
 
 1. Lyndale, Valley of Bocks , Lee 
 Bay r 
 
 2. Valley of the TV. Lyn. 
 
 3. Heddon’s Mouth . 
 
 4. Brendon valley . 
 
 5. G lent home ; path along the Ex- 
 moor coast . 
 
 6. Porlock, Bossing ton Hill , Dmkcry 
 Beacon , Culbone . 
 
 7. Exmoor . 
 
 No. 1 may be seen in one day ; 2 
 and 3 may be comprised in the route 
 to Combe Martin and Ilfracombe ; 4 
 and 5 should each be made the object 
 of a separate day’s excursion, al- 
 though it is quite possible to in- 
 clude them in one ramble; G may 
 have been already seen by the tra- 
 veller on his road to Lynton. 
 
 (1) a . First then for Lyndale and 
 Waters 9 Meet. Starting from Lynton, 
 the stranger should descend to Lyn- 
 mouth through the beautiful wooded 
 grounds of Lynton Cottage (Mr. San- 
 ford), having given orders that his 
 pony should be taken round to await 
 him below. He will next visit the 
 grounds of Glen Lyn (W. K. Riddell, 
 Esq. ; but these are open only on 
 Tuesdays and Fridays: there is no 
 fee for admission), which occupy 
 the ravine through which the W. 
 Lyn comes hurrying under Lyn Cliff, 
 where it falls in a cascade ; and if 
 inclined to extend the ramble, a 
 path will lead him up the stream 
 nearly \ m. ; and “perhaps nowhere,” 
 says ‘the Sketcher* (Blackwood), 
 “ is to be found so much beauty of 
 painter’s detail, of water, foliage, 
 stones, and banks, within so small a 
 space.” The Filmy fern grows here 
 abundantly, and the turf is chequered 
 by the ivy-leaved Campanula, while 
 the sweet-scented L>astrcea oreopteris 
 
272 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 and L. Filix mas paleacca attain an un- 
 rivalled luxuriance (‘ Ferny Combes/ 
 1856). Having fully explored this 
 romantic retreat, he is advised to 
 mount his pony and proceed up the 
 gorge of the E. Lyn, or Lyn- 
 dale, as far as the junction of 2 ; 
 branches of the river, at a spot ! 
 named 
 
 Waters * Meet (about 2 m., to 1 
 which there is also a path along the : 
 rt. bank through the woods, but it is ' 
 longer and more fatiguing). Here the 
 scenery is most beautiful. The sides | 
 of the ravine are covered with woods, 
 the haunt of the wild deer of Ex- 
 moor, and rocks in various places 
 protrude as cliffs, or lie coated with j 
 moss under the oaks on the hillside. 
 Far below, where the foamy torrents 
 unite, stands a small rural cottage, 
 the property of the Rev. W. S. Halli- 
 day of Glenthorne. From this spot 
 you can proceed £ m. further to Ilford I 
 Bridges, and thence cross the hills to ; 
 
 Lyn Cliff, or, if on foot, you can 
 climb from Waters’ Meet at once in 
 the same direction. The view of 
 Lyndale from these heights, and the 
 grandeur of the surrounding country, 
 will be ample recompense for the 
 fatigue of the ascent. After con- 
 templating the depths of the valley, 
 raise your eyes to the dark ridges of 
 Exmoor stretching in deep purple 
 E. and W. and N. to the sea. At 
 the close of autumn these desolate 
 hills have donned their most gloomy 
 garb and are in character with 
 wintry skies. Arrived at Lyn Cliff, 
 you must gain a point a little E. of 
 the summer-house, so as to command 
 the length of the gorge. Count esbnry 
 and its ch. will be seen aloft in the 
 distance, on so dreary a hill that you 
 will shiver to think of a winter’s night 
 in that forlorn and exj>osed village. 
 Lyn Cliff is a good point for a view 
 of the ledge on w hich Lynton, it is 
 said, looks dropped by chance, and of 
 the hollow in which Lynmouth lies 
 
 embedded. Hence also you may 
 travel in imagination some dis- 
 tance towards Porlock, for the up- 
 land of Countesbury is open before 
 you, and the brown moor stretching 
 beyond it for miles ; whilst an idea 
 may be gained of the size of the hills 
 by carrying your eye from the depths 
 of the valley to the distant summits. 
 From Lyn Cliff the wanderer can 
 descend to Lynbridge, Chewy Bridge , 
 or Barbrick Mill , and at any of these 
 places cross the W. Lyn and return 
 to Lynton by a horse-road opposite 
 Lynbridge. He will probably have 
 returned to his hotel about the time 
 for a luncheon. He can next pro- 
 ceed to the 
 
 b. Valley of Rocks. This wild and 
 interesting scene is about 1 m. W. of 
 Lynton, and approached either by 
 the North Walk above the cliff, or by 
 a carriage-road. The former should 
 be selected. It is a path cut midway 
 along a rapid slope of about 700 ft., 
 and forms a narrow terrace com- 
 manding a fine sea view, the cloud- 
 like mountains of Wales in the 
 distance, the gorge of the E. Lyn (in 
 perspective), and a sweep of dreary 
 coast terminated by the Lynmouth 1 
 Foreland. 
 
 ■ 
 
 After skirting the sea for about a 
 mile you come to a gap in the hill- 1 
 I side, and through this colossal portal, 
 
 | between 2 masses of bare pyramidal 
 limestone, you enter the Valley of 
 \ Rocks, which may well astonish the 
 traveller when they first break upon 
 his view, rising abruptly from the 
 | face of the slope in crags and pin- ' 
 nacles. In a few minutes he will be 
 passing below them. Southey de- 
 scribes it as “a spot which is one of 
 the greatest wonders indeed in the 
 West of England. Imagine a narrow 
 vale between 2 ridges of hills some- 
 what steep: the southern hill turfed: 
 the vale, which runs from east to 
 west, covered with huge stones and 
 fragments of stone among the fern « 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 273 
 
 Route 18 . 
 
 that fills it ; the northern ridge com- 
 pletely bare, excoriated of all turf and 
 all soil, the very bones and skeleton of 
 the earth ; rock reclining upon rock, 
 stone piled upon stone, a huge terrific 
 mass. A palace of the pre-Adamite 
 kings, a city of the Anakim must 
 have appeared so shapeless, and yet 
 so like the ruins of what had been 
 shaped after the waters of the flood 
 subsided. I ascended with some toil 
 the highest point ; 2 large stones in- 
 clining on each other formed a rude 
 portal on the summit. Here I sat 
 down. A little level platform, about 
 2 yds. long, lay before me, and then 
 the eye immediately fell upon the 
 sea, far, very far, below. I never 
 felt the sublimity of solitude before.” 
 One of these rocks is known 
 as the Chimney Rock , and ano- 
 ther, which throws its shadow on 
 you as you turn into the valley, 
 by the whimsical name of Rugged 
 Jack. Having threaded this pass, the 
 traveller will find himself upon the 
 greensward of the valley itself ; the 
 Castle Rock rising like some Nor- 
 man ruin on the rt., and the crag 
 called the Devil’ s Cheesewring , or 
 Cheese-press , from the hillside op- 
 posite. He is now in the heart of the 
 stony vale, which descends obliquely 
 towards the sea, but at a great eleva- 
 tion, and will probably rest to con- 
 template the wild and singular scene. 
 He may ponder meanwhile on the 
 probability of a mighty torrent having 
 once rolled through this trough-way 
 to the sea, and of the land having 
 been afterwards upraised to its present 
 position. A human interest also 
 attaches to this lonely glen. From 
 time immemorial it has been known 
 as the Danes ; and tradition asserts 
 that a party of those marauders, 
 when pursued from a neighbouring 
 village, were here overtaken and 
 slaughtered. In connection with the 
 legend, it is a curious circumstance 
 that a number of human bones have 
 been discovered in cutting a path up 
 the Castle liock. 
 
 . — Lynton . 
 
 You will ascend the Castle Rock. 
 This, at one time, was a feat requiring 
 some agility ; but a few years ago 
 one John Norman received permission 
 from the lord of the manor to make 
 paths and destroy rocks that he might 
 levy toll on the stranger. It must 
 be allowed that lie executed his 
 work in a masterly manner. The 
 walk along the cliff is worthy of a 
 Telford, and the path up the Castle 
 enables the veriest coward to ascend 
 to the summit ; but the native wild- 
 ness of this huge ruinous crag is 
 gone for ever. On all sides it is 
 covered with rubbish ; a terrace 
 has been levelled near the top, 
 and the weather-beaten rocks have 
 been actually hewn into seats and 
 tables. Here may be seen a block 
 of several tons weight, so nicely 
 balanced, that the heave of a crow- 
 bar would send it thundering to 
 the sea ; and at the base of the cliffs 
 the mouths of several caverns which 
 are said to extend a long way under- 
 ground, and can be visited by one 
 of Norman’s paths. The view is, of 
 course, very extensive, and in a 
 westerly direction the eye ranges 
 from Duty Point and Lee Bay to 
 the great promontory of High Year. 
 From the terrace a stair- way has 
 been cut to the summit, and the steps 
 afford several good sections of fossil 
 shells. After his visit to the Castle 
 Rock the traveller can descend to 
 the beach at the end of the valley, 
 and examine the cliff, which, in ap- 
 pearance, is identical with the vesi- 
 cular volcanic ash of Brent Tor. He 
 should also direct his attention to the 
 pile of rocks called the Cheese-press , 
 and explore the wilderness of pinna- 
 cles and crags around the Chimney 
 Rock and Rugged Jack. The walk 
 may be extended to Duty Point , just 
 W. of the valley but this is open 
 only Wednesdays and Saturdays), 
 and a little further to 
 
 Lee Bay (1^ m. W. from Lynton), a 
 magnificent crescent of foliage and 
 
274 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 heights. At one part of it, called 
 Crock Meadows, a small landslip has 
 occurred. Behind the shelter of Duty 
 Point stands 
 
 Lee Abbey, the modern mansion 
 of C. Bailey, Esq., shown on Wed- 
 nesdays and Saturdays. Adjoining 
 the house are artificial ruins. Here, 
 in former times, stood the splendid 
 abode of the De Wichehalse, a noble 
 family of Holland, who, about 1570, 
 during the persecution of the »Pro- 
 estants by Alva, escaped with their 
 property to England. In the reign 
 of Charles II. Sir Edward de Wi- 
 chehalse was the head of this house, 
 and an important personage ; but his 
 daughter, his only child, proved the 
 unfortunate cause of destruction to 
 the family. She was wooed and won 
 by a nobleman in high favour with 
 James II. ; the lover proved faithless, 
 and the deserted maiden was one 
 day found lifeless under the rocks of 
 Duty Point. The father in vain 
 sought redress by petitioning the 
 king, and, when Monmouth landed 
 at Lyme, De Wichehalse and his ad- 
 herents hastened to support him. 
 After the battle of Sedgemoor the 
 unhappy parent returned to Lyn- 
 ton, but the emissaries of the king 
 were soon despatched to apprehend 
 him, and, on their approach by the 
 neighbouring valley, De Wichehalse 
 and the remainder of his family em- 
 barked in a boat to escape. The night 
 was, however, stormy, and they are 
 supposed to have all perished, as they 
 were never heard of again. The mo- 
 nument and shield of a De Wiche- 
 halse may be seen in Lynton church. 
 It may be as well to add that Lee 
 was never the site of any monastic 
 foundation. It is only a melodra- 
 matic abbey. 
 
 (2 and 3) The Valley of the W. Lyn, 
 and Hcddon’s Mouth , may both be 
 seen on the way to Combe Martin 
 and Ilfracombe. (See post.) 
 
 vourite ride from Lynton is by the 
 following course. Ascend Lyndale 
 to Ilford Bridges. Take the road 
 on the 1. to Brcndon Church. Descend 
 into the valley of Brendon (a splendid 
 ravine much resembling Lyndale), 
 and proceed to the Lynton and Por- 
 lock road ; returning by Countes- 
 bury Hill. 
 
 Oare Water and Badgery (Badge- 
 worthy) Water may be made the 
 objects of a separate excursion by 
 those fond of fishing or scenery. On 
 the heights above Oare Valley the 
 botanist should look for Lycopodium 
 alpinum. The Oak-fern, or Polypodium 
 dryopteris , grows abundantly on Ex- 
 moor. 
 
 (5) Glenthome, the seat of the Rev. 
 W. S. Halliday, is situated in a sin- 
 gularly romantic dell on the coast, 
 about 5 m. E. from Lynton for 
 a person on foot by Mr. Halliday’s 
 coast-path, and 8 m. for carriages, 
 as the road on its descent to Glen- 
 thorne is drawn out by many twists 
 and turns. The coast-path deserves 
 to be particularly described. Com- 
 mencing a little beyond Countesbury, 
 and running through Glenthorne to 
 Porlock, it is cut on the side of the 
 huge sea-slopes, and commands at all 
 points views of the Welsh mountains 
 and Bristol Channel. It is called a 
 horse-path, but few would venture 
 along it otherwise than on foot. It 
 passes round several deep recesses, 
 each with its stream and wood of 
 oaks, and, approaching Glenthorne, 
 is girt by rocks, superb in colour, 
 and here and there by old trees most 
 wonderful in form, flattened, as it 
 were, by the wind against the hill- 
 side, to which they seem to cling with 
 fantastic arms. At several points are 
 seats of rosy stone, and these like the 
 rock are festooned with creepers, 
 ferns, and mosses. Beyond the grounds 
 of Glenthorne the path proceeds to 
 Culbone and Porlock through oak 
 coppice ; but at intervals are deep 
 
 (4) Another beautiful and fa- 
 
Devonshire, 
 
 Route 18 . — Porloch 
 
 275 
 
 hollows, worn by the streams, and 
 these are invariably filled with trees 
 of considerable size. Below, on the 
 cliffs, the traveller will remark the 
 contortions of the strata. In the 
 j woods may be found Asplenium sep- 
 f tcntrionale. 
 
 The road from Lynmouth ascends 
 at once to a height of about 1100 ft., 
 and proceeds on that level to the 
 descent to Glenthorne. i m. short 
 i of Conntesbury, l£ m., is an old camp 
 (rt. of the road) commanding an ex- 
 j cellent view of the ravine at Waters’ 
 Meet ; and, 3^ m. beyond this village, 
 the boundary of Mr. Halliday’s pro- 
 perty, called Cosgates Feet Gate , from 
 which a track on rt. leads by the val- 
 ley of Oare to Brendon and Waters- 
 meet. Here the traveller will see, on 
 the 1., the camp of Oldbarrow , on the 
 summit of a cliff which overlooks 
 the sea, and commands an inland 
 view of great extent and beauty. 
 The camp is nearly square, made by 
 a single Vallum and fosse of great 
 strength. It may possibly be Ro- 
 man. On the accessible side of the 
 hill, E., an immense bank or ram- 
 part, 50 ft. high, stretches across the. 
 isthmus from one precipice to the 
 other, converting the camp into a 
 “ cliff-castle.” From this point also 
 he will look down upon the woods 
 of Glenthorne , to which he will now 
 descend by a series of zigzags. 
 The house is situated about 1 000 ft. 
 below the Porlock road, and 50 above 
 the shore, at the base of mountainous 
 slopes, thickly wooded and mantled 
 with heather and fern. It stands on 
 a small grassy platform abutting on 
 the cliff, and a little to the W. of a 
 beautiful dingle by which a stream 
 and a path descend to the beach. 
 Within the mansion, which is oc- 
 casionally shown, are many curiosi- 
 ties — antiquities from Greece and 
 Italy, a collection of armour, rare 
 cabinets, and among some pictures 
 the Spectre Ship, by Severn, in illus- 
 tration of Coleridge’s ‘ Ancient Ma- 
 
 riner.’ In the servants’ hall there 
 is a fireplace which belonged to 
 Card. Wolsey, and on Palermo Point, 
 above the house, a group of marbles 
 from Athens and Corinth. The 
 scenery, however, is the chief attrac- 
 tion of Glenthorne, and let no visitor 
 neglect to explore the paths on the 
 sea-slopes E. of the house. They run 
 through a wood of most venerable 
 oaks, many twisted in fanciful shapes, 
 and one, in particular, forming an 
 arch over the path. 
 
 (6) To Porloch (including Culbone ), 
 13 m. post. The road is that to 
 Glenthorne as far as the boundary 
 of Somerset. 
 
 From the border the road traverses 
 the long ridge of Oare Hill, black 
 moors stretching in advance for miles, 
 and occasionally perhaps varied by 
 one of those grand cloud effects, when 
 mists come whirling over the hills in 
 wreaths, and here and there open to 
 show patches of green as brilliant as 
 chrysophrase. The * descent to Por- 
 lock is finer of its kind than anything 
 in Devonshire — on the rt. the wild 
 mountain of Dunkery, and a middle 
 ground of woods and hollow glens ; 
 in front the rugged ridge of Bossing- 
 ton and the broad vale of Porlock 
 (bearing some resemblance to that 
 famed Welsh scene on theClwyd); 
 on the 1. a crescent-shaped bay, 
 the Bristol Channel, and the many- 
 coloured mountains of Wales. At 
 Porlock (see Rte. 19, and the Hand- 
 book {or Somerset) there is a hum- 
 ble but hospitable little inn (the 
 Ship), garnished with antlers of 
 the red deer ; and the traveller may 
 here well spend a day or two in 
 making the ascent of Dunkery Bea- 
 con, which has a base 12 m. in cir- 
 cumference, and commands perhaps 
 the noblest prospect in the West of 
 England, the summit, crowned with 
 the remains of old fire-beacons, being 
 about 4 m. distant ; and in proceed- 
 ing along the coast by Ashley Combe 
 
276 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 (Earl of Lovelace) to tlie remarkable 
 hamlet of Cnlbone (3 m.), consisting of 
 some cottages (Pop. 41) and a minia- 
 ture ch., “ situated in as extraor- 
 dinary a spot as man in his whimsi- 
 cality ever fixed on for a place of 
 worship,” so shut in by woods and 
 hills 1200 ft. high as to be excluded 
 from the sun for 3 months in the 
 year. From Ashley Combe he 
 should also walk or ride up a wooded 
 glen to a farm of Lord Lovelace’s 
 called the Pet , situated in a gloomy 
 but most imposing amphitheatre, 
 chiselled by streams from the black 
 hills of the moor. One on foot 
 can scramble to the summit, and 
 return by high road to Porlock, 
 but the path for horses has been 
 overwhelmed by a landslip. You 
 should also not forget to walk about 
 2 m. on the Minehead road for a view 
 of Holnicote (Sir T. Dyke Acland, 
 Bart.). You will there behold a back- 
 ground of the dark mountainous 
 Dunkery, a mid distance of ferny 
 glens and heights most beautifully 
 wooded, and a foreground of slopes 
 rising in graceful undulations from a 
 vale. It is to be sincerely hoped 
 that cultivation will never ascend 
 Dunkery, which now, in its sombre 
 garniture of heather, may well be the 
 delight of the proprietor of Holnicote. 
 This neighbourhood more properly 
 belongs to the Handbook of Somerset 
 (in which it is fully deseribed), but it 
 may be added that Bossinyton Hill is 
 traversed by paths which command 
 certainly a far more beautiful though 
 not so extensive a view as Dunkery ; 
 and that there is a curious cavern at 
 the sea-point of the hill. 
 
 (7) Exmoor occupies an area of 
 about 14 sq. m., and is still to a great 
 extent uncultivated — a waste of dark 
 hills and valleys tracked by lonely 
 streams. It attains its greatest ele- 
 vation on the E., where Dunkery Bea- 
 con rises 1668 ft. above the sea; but 
 on the W. its hills are of little infe- 
 rior height, Chapman Barrows being 
 
 1540 ft., and Span Head 1610 ft. On 
 its borders it is pierced by deep 
 wooded ravines, of which the tra- 
 veller has a magnificent example in 
 Lyndale. The central part of this 
 region, about 20,000 acres, formed 
 the ancient Forest of Exmoor , for 
 which an Act of enclosure was ob- 
 tained in 1815, when it was pur- 
 chased by the late John Knight, Esq., 
 of Wolverley Hall, Worcestershire, 
 who proposed converting it to a less 
 interesting but more profitable land 
 of meadows. With this object he 
 encircled the whole forest w T ith a ring 
 fence, and commenced building a 
 castellated mansion at Simonsbath, 
 but this he soon found occasion to 
 abandon, together with many of 
 his projected improvements, for the 
 speculation proved anything but a 
 golden adventure. A considerable 
 acreage has, however, been brought 
 under cultivation, and this is now 
 leased in separate farms by the pro- 
 prietor of the forest, Mr. Frederick 
 Winn Knight; the principil draw- 
 back to success being the strong winds 
 and chilly mists which prevail in so 
 elevated a district. The soil is in 
 general of a fair quality, although 
 the hard sandstones below the soil, 
 being little liable to decompose, are 
 somewhat unfavourable to fertility. 
 Extensive tracts, however, still re- 
 main, both in the forest and sur- 
 rounding highlands, in a state of 
 nature, delighting the eye by the 
 grandeur of their unbroken outline 
 and the rich beauty of their colour; 
 and here, over slopes of heather, 
 interspersed with the dwarf juniper, 
 cranberry, and whortleberry, roams 
 the “ Exmoor pony,” a breed of the 
 native English horse, carefully pre- 
 served by Sir T. Dyke Acland, and 
 the red forest deer, which still makes 
 its lair in the extensive covers on the 
 moor-side. This is the only corner 
 of England in which the red deer is 
 still to be found in a thoroughly wild 
 state. A stag is now and then roused 
 on the Quantock Hills, but Exmoor 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 18 . — Exmoor . 
 
 277 
 
 itself is their head-quarters. A very 
 pleasant book on the ‘ Chase of the 
 Wild Red Deer in the Counties of 
 Devon and Somerset’ has been writ- 
 ten by C. P. Collyns, Esq. (Longman, 
 1862), himself a veteran sportsman, 
 resident at Dulverton. 
 
 Since the year 1841 the farms 
 on Exmoor have been chiefly under 
 the management of Mr. Robert 
 Smith, the resident agent of Mr. 
 Knight, and under his superinten- 
 dence upwards of 4000 acres have 
 been let on lease, in addition to the 
 land previously occupied. The water- 
 meadows made by this gentleman 
 are well worth the attention of those 
 interested in agriculture. 
 
 But the farmer is now likely to 
 be driven by the miner from his 
 settlement on Exmoor. In 1851 a 
 specimen of the white carbonate of 
 iron was sent by Mr. R. Smith to the 
 Great Exhibition. Its value sug- 
 gested the expediency of a further 
 search, and this led to the discovery 
 of abundant iron-lodes, including 
 haematites and other ores hitherto 
 supposed peculiar to Staffordshire 
 and S. Wales. Large districts of the 
 moor are now in the hands of three 
 of the principal iron companies in 
 the kingdom, viz. the Ulverstone of 
 Lancashire, and the Dowlais and 
 Plymouth of S. Wales. Their steam 
 machinery is expected to raise about 
 300,000 tons of iron-ore annually. 
 Two lines for a mineral railway have 
 been surveyed, one to Porlock, the 
 other to Lynton; but it is not yet 
 determined which will be adopted. 
 A new district ch., erected prin- 
 cipally through the exertions of Mr. 
 Knight, was consecrated 1856. 
 
 The road from Lynton to Simons- 
 bath ascends Lyndale to Ilford 
 Bridges, and there divides into 4 
 branches. On rt. one climbs the hill 
 towards Barbrick Mill, and another 
 passes up the valley to Combe Park , 
 
 seat of W. Collard, Esq. Forward, a 
 third runs direct for the heights of the 
 moor, where it joins the fourth, which 
 turns 1. from Ilford Bridges, up a 
 ladder-like hill towards Brendon ch. 
 Having ascended to the upper regions 
 (by either of the two roads last-men- 
 tioned), the traveller will have Scob 
 Rill on his 1., a heathery eminence, on 
 which the deer are frequently to be 
 seen in the early morning and even- 
 ing, and which is said to be a 
 favourite resort of vipers. He 
 will then proceed by a good and 
 easy road along the moor, with a 
 wide extent of wild country opening 
 around him. To the rt. he may 
 observe the hills in which the Barle 
 and the Exe have their fountains ; 
 and in whose vicinity are the bogs 
 called the Black Pits and Mole's 
 Chamber the last (now cultivated ; 
 4 m. from Simonsbath, and 1 m. from 
 the Black Pits) said to have been so 
 named from an unfortunate farmer, 
 who was lost in it with his horse 
 when hunting (but is it not named 
 as the source of the river Mole, 
 which rises here ?). He will enter 
 the ancient forest, now the property 
 of Mr. Frederick W. Knight, at 
 the double gates across the road. He 
 will there notice the views rt. and 1., 
 and also the ring fence, as yet the 
 only intruder (save the road) on the 
 solitary scene. 1 m. 1. of the double 
 gates, in a bottom called the Warren, 
 are some remains of a building which 
 was once the stronghold of the Boones 
 of Badgeworthy , a daring gang of rob- 
 bers who infested the borders of the 
 moor at the time of the Commonwealth, 
 and of whom the tradition is still extant. 
 They are said to have been natives 
 of another part of England, and to 
 have entered Devonshire about the 
 time of Cromwell’s usurpation. It 
 is certain that for many years they 
 were a terror to the neighbourhood 
 of Lynton, and long succeeded in 
 levying black mail on the farmers, 
 and in escaping with their booty to 
 this lonely retreat, where none dared 
 
278 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 to follow. At length, however, they 
 committed so savage a murder that 
 the whole country was aroused, and a 
 large party of the peasantry, having 
 armed themselves, proceeded at once 
 to Badgeworthy, and captured the 
 entire gang. This exploit ended the 
 career of the Doones, for they were 
 shortly afterwards tried for their nu- 
 merous crimes, and deservedly exe- 
 cuted. (The visitor to Exmoor should 
 by all means prepare himself for the 
 expedition by a study of Mr. Black- 
 more’s romance of 4 Lorna Doone.’ 
 It is rich in most picturesque de- 
 scriptions — perhaps a little highly 
 coloured— of all this neighbourhood; 
 and besides those relating to the 
 Doones of Badge worthy, it embodies 
 many local traditions, — especially 
 those of the robber “ Faggus,” and 
 of the 44 strong man” Jan Kidd. The 
 dialect has been most happily pre- 
 served.) lj m. beyond the double 
 gates the traveller will pass the Exe, 
 here a rivulet, draining from a bog 
 called the Chains , where the moor is 
 impressively desolate. In another J 
 m. he will open to view the valley of 
 the Barle, and begin the long descent 
 upon Simonsbath, the ruinous wall 
 and flanking towers commenced by 
 Mr. Knight skirting the road on 
 the 1. 
 
 Simonsbath is a solitary settlement 
 in a moorland valley, encircled by 
 some fine old trees, originally planted 
 as shelter to a rough house of enter- 
 tainment which formerly stood here. 
 The place consists of Mr. Knight’s 
 unfinished mansion, now a pictu- 
 resque ruin, a small house adjoining 
 it, occupied occasionally as a resi- 
 dence by the present lord of Exmoor, 
 a small public-house, and various out- 
 buildings, including the shop of a 
 blacksmith, the yard of a carpenter, 
 and the store of a general dealer. 
 The view is wild. The Barle courses 
 along a valley between swelling moor- 
 land hills, and the eye ranges down a 
 vista formed by promontories which 
 
 successively bend the river from side 
 to side. ( Ring Castle , an old en- 
 
 trenchment on the river, is tradi- 
 tionally said to have been built by 
 the pixies as a defence against the 
 mine spirits.) Simon's Bath itself is 
 a crystal pool on the river, above the 
 house, so called, it is said, from one 
 Simon, a king, who is said to be in- 
 terred under a large barrow called 
 “ Symonsborough,” on the Blackdown 
 Hills. (See Rte. 1.) And here the 
 dreamer should be informed that this 
 Simon, in all probability, is no other 
 than King Sigmund of the 4 Niebe- 
 lungen,’ well known to the Anglo- 
 Saxons, — for this pool on the Barle 
 is a very suitable place for recalling a 
 44 vision of old romance.” Sigmund 
 (see Beowulf) took, in A.-S. tradition, 
 the place, as 44 dragon-slayer,” oc- 
 cupied in the Niebelungen by his 
 son Sigfried. As a mysterious hero 
 he became the guardian of many 
 44 marks” or frontier lands — here 
 and at Symonsborough (both on the 
 borders of Devon and Somerset), at 
 Simon’s Ward in Cornwall, and else- 
 where. The name is found in vari- 
 ous parts of England, and always in 
 wild, remote country. 
 
 The Barle is an excellent trout- 
 stream ; although the fish, 44 though 
 numerous, are not large, and are not 
 yellow-bellied and pink-fleshed as 
 they ought to be, and as the fish are 
 in the neighbouring Badgeworthy 
 and Oare waters.” — G.T. Tickets are 
 necessary for fishing all these waters ; 
 and the angler should inquire at Lyn- 
 ton about them. 2 beds and 2 tickets 
 for the three waters are to be had at 
 Simonsbath ; and tickets for the 
 Barle may be had at the Ked Deer 
 inn, 2 m. S.E. of that place. 
 
 Exmoor is rich in stories of a cer- 
 tain “Faggus” (Fergus?), a robber, 
 who had an 44 enchanted strawberry 
 horse,” which fought for its master 
 with hoof and teeth. Once on Barn- 
 staple Bridge, when they were on the 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 18 . — Exmoor . 
 
 279 
 
 point of taking “ Faggus,” the horse 
 leaped the parapet, plunged 40 feet 
 down into the water, and swam away. 
 Faggus was at last taken by a “ po- 
 liceman ” disguised as a beggarman, 
 who passed a rope through the bacon- 
 rack in a cottage where the robber 
 happened to be resting, and swung 
 him up feet foremost. In the mean 
 time another “ policeman ” shot the 
 horse in the stable. 
 
 The pedestrian— who will find his 
 reward in longer excursions over the 
 wild country of Exmoor — may be 
 told of the following walk, which 
 is recommended in a charming lit- 
 tle volume named 4 Ferny Combes ’ 
 (1856). To Simonsbath , and thence 
 down the Barle to Landacre Bridge 
 and Withypool ( Inn : Royal Oak); 
 and further down the stream, (about 
 5m.), between hills, wild and bare 
 on the one side, beautifully wooded 
 on the other, to Tors Steps (perhaps 
 Thor’s Steps), an ancient British (?) 
 bridge formed of huge blocks of 
 stone, fixed as piers and pathway. 
 Then across the hill to Winsford (a 
 very good inn) ; and, by a lane just 
 wide enough for a small carriage, to 
 Exford ; from which a road leads to 
 the top of Porlock Hill. Descend to 
 Porlock , and return home by Culbone 
 and Glenthorne . 
 
 The stranger, before he leaves Lyn- 
 ton, should explore the course of the 
 TV. Lyn , and that remarkable valley 
 opening to the sea at Heddon’s Mouth , 
 about 6 m. W. ; but both may be 
 seen in his route to Combe Martin 
 and Ilfracombe. (A coach runs to 
 Barnstaple, a beautiful drive, daily 
 in summer. According to the charges 
 of postboys, Lynton is 47 m. from 
 Bridgewater, 13 from Porlock, and 
 20 from Ilfracombe.) 
 
 There are three roads by which he 
 can proceed to Ilfracombe from Lyn- 
 ton. Should he select the circuitous 
 and comparatively uninteresting car- 
 
 riage-road, he can visit Combe Martin 
 (about 15 m.), but will travel by 
 Paracombe (6 m.), and leave Hed- 
 don’s Mouth a long way to the N. ; 
 and Combe Martin also will escape 
 him, unless he keeps a wary eye on 
 his driver, as it is a common trick 
 with these worthies to forget their 
 orders, and hurry direct from Lyn- 
 ton to Ilfracombe. The other roads 
 are adapted only for horsemen or 
 pedestrians, but are far to be preferred 
 in point of scenery. The first passes 
 through the Valley of Rocks, and by 
 Lee Bay and Woodabay near Mar- 
 tinhoe to Heddon’s Mouth and 
 Trentishoe; the second, along the 
 carriage-way by the valley of the W. 
 Lyn, and over a moor, to the same 
 destination, being about J m. longer 
 than that by Lee Bay, which is de- 
 cidedly the most interesting. By 
 either of the latter routes we can 
 reach the superb valley which opens 
 to the sea at 
 
 6 Heddon’s Mouth (the Hunter’s 
 Inn , a small house at which pedes- 
 trians may very well pass a night), 
 enclosed by huge boundaries hung 
 with wood, fern, furze, and heather, 
 and considered by many persons the 
 finest valley in the county. The 
 stranger with time at his command 
 should walk by the side of the stream 
 to the shore at Heddon’s Mouth 
 (i. e. the Giant's Mouth, — etin , A.-S. 
 a giant — the rocks open at the shore 
 like a gigantic mouth), and also 
 ascend to the Parsonage, from which 
 a most charming path will lead him 
 along the hillside to the cliffs, and 
 round the point. Through openings 
 in the wood he will obtain glorious 
 peeps of the deep valley, of the blue 
 sea, and mountain coast of Wales ; 
 and, if a botanist, may find among the 
 mosses the Orpine or Livelong , a large 
 red Sedurn , rare in England. (The 
 coast at Martinhoe, which the pedes- 
 trian will have passed in reaching 
 Heddon’s Mouth from Lynton, is 
 the scene of a curious version of a 
 
280 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. . Sect. I. 
 
 widely* spread legend. Sir Robert 
 Chichester, anciently of Croscombe, 
 in Martinhoe, is said to be compelled, 
 for his sins, to haunt the base of a 
 cliff on the sea-shore. He is con- 
 demned to weave traces from the 
 sand, which he is to fasten to his 
 carriage, and then drive up the face 
 of the crag, and through a narrow 
 fissure at the summit, which is 
 known as “Sir Robert’s Road.”) 
 From the valley of Heddon’s Mouth 
 a steep zigzag road rises through 
 pine woods to the hamlet of 
 
 Trentislioe , where the diminutive 
 ch., of no great architectural interest, 
 should be noticed. From this place 
 the pedestrian is advised to strike 
 across the hills (on which grows 
 the large trailing Lycopodium clam- 
 turn) direct to Combe Martin, by the 
 summits of Trentishoe Barrow , Holstone 
 Barrow (alt. 1187 ft.), Great Hangman 
 (alt. 1083 ft.), and Little Hangman. 
 The most remarkable scene which 
 he will observe by the way is the 
 wild deep glen of Sliercombe , with 
 loose stones on its precipitous sides, 
 situated between Holstone Barrow 
 and Great Hangman Hill. It is par- 
 ticularly striking when viewed from 
 the sea, and is watered by a small 
 stream which affords nourishment to 
 the bog pimpernel and other marsh 
 flowers, and falls over the cliff in a 
 picturesque cascade. The Hangman 
 Hills form a point from which the high 
 land of Exmoor sweeps to the S.E.by a 
 curved line passing by Paracombe, 
 Chapman Barrows (1540 ft.), Span 
 Head (1610 ft.), and North Molton 
 Ridge (1413 ft.). On the descent 
 from Little Hangman, the traveller 
 should observe the variety and beauty 
 of the colours on the cliff. The hill 
 derives its name from the 
 
 Hanging Stone , a boundary-mark of 
 Combe Martin parish, and so called, 
 it is commonly said, “ from a thief, 
 who, having stolen a sheep and tied 
 it about his neck to carry it on his 
 
 back, rested himself for a time upon 
 this rock, until the sheep struggling 
 slid over the side and strangled the 
 man.” A Hangman’s Stone is found 
 in several parts of England— for in- 
 stance, near Sidmouth, and in 
 Charnwood Forest, Leicestershire — 
 and of all the same wild tale is told ; 
 but a connection may be seen be- 
 tween these names and that of Stone- 
 henge, which signifies the Hanging 
 (or uplifted) Stones — Stane-henge , 
 A.-S. — and is supposed to have been 
 derived from the imposts, which 
 formed a corona on the outer circle. 
 
 6 Combe Martin. {Inn : King’s 
 Arms, commonly known as the Pack 
 of Cards, and bearing no fanciful re- 
 semblance to one of those unstable 
 pagodas built by children. It was 
 erected as a marine residence by an 
 eccentric individual who lived some 
 years ago near Barnstaple. The inn 
 is hardly to be commended.) This 
 long irregular village lies in a val- 
 ley opening to a rocky picturesque 
 bay. The manor was given by the 
 Conqueror to the powerful Martin of 
 Tours, after whom it was called. It 
 is well known for its silverlead mines, 
 which have been worked at inter- 
 vals from the time of Edw. I. In 
 that reign more than 300 men were 
 brought from the Peak of Derby- 
 shire to work them. In the 22nd 
 Edw. I., William Wymondham ac- 
 counted for 270 lbs. weight of silver, 
 forged for Eleanor, Duchess of Bar, 
 dr. of Edw. I. ; and in the 24th year 
 of the same reign 704 lbs. of finest 
 silver, in wedges, were brought to 
 London. Camden informs us that 
 these mines partly defrayed the ex- 
 penses of the French wars of Edw. 
 III., and that Hen. V. also made 
 good use of them in his invasion 
 of France. From that period they 
 seem to have been neglected until the 
 reign of Eliz., when a new lode was 
 discovered and worked with great 
 profit by Sir Beavis Bulmer, Knt., as 
 appears by the following quaint in- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 j Route 18 . — Combe Martin . 
 
 281 
 
 scription on a silver cup presented by 
 the Queen to William Bourchier, Earl 
 of Bath, when lord of the manor : — 
 
 ■** In Martyn’s Coombe long lay I hydd, 
 Obscured, deprest with grossest soyle, 
 Debased much with mixed lead, 
 
 Till Bulmer came, whose skille and toyle 
 Refined me so pure and cleane, 
 
 As rycher no where els is seene. 
 
 And adding yet a farther grace 
 By fashion he did enable 
 Mee worthy for to take a place 
 To serve at any Prince’s table. 
 
 Coombe Marty n gave the use alone, 
 
 Bulmer the fyning and fashion.” 
 
 Another cup, weighing 137 oz., and, 
 like the former, made of Combe 
 Martin silver, was presented by 
 Bulmer to Sir R. Martin, Lord 
 Mayor of London. It bore an appro- 
 priate inscription, beginning thus 
 
 “ When water workes in broken wharfes 
 At first erected were, 
 
 And Beavis Bulmer with his arte 
 The waters ’gan to reare, 
 
 Disperced I in the earth did lye, 
 
 Since all beginninge olde, 
 
 In place called Coombe, where Martyn longe 
 Had hydd me in his molde. 
 
 I dydd no service on the earth, 
 
 And no man set mee free, 
 
 Till Bulmer, by his skille and charge. 
 
 Did frame mee this to bee.” 
 
 Mr. Webber, of Bucldand House, 
 near Braunton, is in possession of a 
 letter from Charles I. to one of his 
 ancestors, showing that these mines 
 were then considered of importance ; 
 but there is no proof of their having 
 been worked in that reign. In more 
 recent times they have been open, as 
 formerly, only at intervals. Some 
 adventurers embarked in them in 
 1813, and again in 1835, when, after 
 an expenditure of 15,000Z., a lode was 
 found which promised to be remune- 
 rative. The speculation, however, 
 was ultimately abandoned. The 
 lodes occur in beds containing lime- 
 stone, and immediately under the 
 slates. The strata in which the ore 
 is found — slates mixed with sand- 
 stone, calciferous, and porphyritic 
 rocks — belong to the Devonian or 
 “old red sandstone ” series. They 
 resemble those of Santa Ana silver- 
 
 mines, S. America ; and, as in all 
 valuable mining districts, the rocks 
 have been exposed to various contor- 
 tions, faults, and dislocations. The 
 mines, which have generally been 
 worked in connection with the silver- 
 lead mines of Beer Alston (see 
 Rte. 14), are 2 in number, the 
 shafts being sunk to the depths of 
 40 and 102 fath. ; the levels are 
 driven under the village, and an 
 adit , or subterranean passage for 
 drainage, passes under the hotel 
 towards the sea. A smelting-house 
 was erected in 1845 at the mouth of 
 the valley, where it forms a pictu- 
 resque object among the trees. The 
 produce of the Combe Martin mines 
 has been here reduced to plates 
 weighing 1200 and 1800 oz., and the 
 company also smelted a large propor- 
 tion of the Cornish lead-ores. 
 
 The Church is a most interesting 
 old battlemented building constructed 
 of a rose-coloured stone, the angles of 
 which are as sharp as if recently cut. 
 It is Perp. (nave and aisles) and E. 
 Eng. (chancel), with a very fine Perp. 
 Tower, of the character usual in the 
 best churches of N. Devon (see Intro. 
 Devon). Its height is 99 ft. There 
 is a small niche containing a figure 
 on the face of each buttress in the 3rd 
 stage; and a large canopied niche 
 with the patron, St. Peter, above the 
 W. window. Within the ch. remark 
 the screen ; an excellent example, 
 though not one of the richest. There 
 are some good paintings of the Apos- 
 tles on panels at the base. Remark 
 the narrow E. Eng. door on the S. 
 side of the chancel, and the painted 
 tombstones in the churchyard. A 
 hand holding a knife and cutting the 
 stalk of a flower appears to be a 
 favourite device. In the S. aisle is a 
 mural monument to the memory of — 
 Hancock, wife of Thomas Hancock, 
 “ sometime His Majesty's principal 
 sercher {sic) in the port of London," 
 with an effigy the size of life exqui- 
 sitely and elaborately sculptured in 
 
282 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Heartland . 
 
 white marble. It bears the date 1637. 
 Mistress Hancock is represented in the 
 dress of that time, covered with point 
 lace, and looped with knots of riband : 
 she has a pearl necklace round her 
 throat and her hair in curls, and bears 
 some resemblance to the portraits of 
 Henrietta Maria, queen of Charles I. 
 This monument has been restored 
 through the taste and spirit of the 
 present vicar, who has done much for 
 his ch., which is in excellent order. * 
 
 A curious ceremony, called “ Hunt- 
 ing the Earl of Rone,” was kept up 
 in Combe Martin till 1837. There 
 were mummers representing — the 
 Earl of Rone, wearing a grotesque 
 mask, a smock-frock, and a string of 
 1 2 sea-biscuits round his neck ; a 
 hobby-horse, masked, and armed 
 with a “mapper,” an instrument 
 shaped like a horse’s mouth, with 
 teeth, and able to be opened and 
 shut quickly ; a fool, masked ; a 
 donkey with a necklace of 12 bis- 
 cuits ; and a troop of grenadiers 
 armed with guns. On Ascension- 
 day the grenadiers marched to 
 Lady’s Wood, near the village, and 
 found the “ Earl of Rone ” hidden 
 in the brushwood. They fired a 
 volley, set him on the donkey with 
 his face to the tail, and thus took 
 him through the village to the sea, 
 joined by the hobby-horse and the 
 fool. At certain stations the grena- 
 diers fired, and the Earl fell from 
 his donkey mortally wounded. The 
 spectators had to contribute black- 
 mail, and if they refused the hobby 
 laid hold of them with his “ map- 
 per.” An Earl of Tyrone is said (?) 
 to have been taken by soldiers in the 
 Lady’s Wood during the Irish rebel- 
 lion, and to have lived for some time 
 on a string of sea-biscuits which he 
 had taken from the little vessel that 
 landed him on the coast. 
 
 Combe Martin Bay is so shut in 
 by rocks that it might easily be made 
 a harbour, and the idea of converting 
 jt to such a purpose has been enter- 
 
 tained by the railway company called 
 the North Devon Extension. The 
 pebbles of the beach are burnt into 
 lime ; and laver is gathered at low 
 tide and eaten in some quantity by 
 the poor of the village. Should the 
 visitor be partial to it and like to 
 seek it for himself, he should know 
 that the porphyra lacinicita has the 
 finest flavour and is equally common 
 with the green laver. “It is ele- 
 gantly dotted with closely-set grains 
 of a dark violet-purple in winter and 
 early spring, when the plant is col- 
 lected for table.” — The Seaside Book. 
 
 In the neighbouring parish of 
 Berrynarbor is a farmhouse called 
 Bowden, celebrated as the birthplace 
 (1522) of John Jewel , Bishop of Salis- 
 bury (1560-1571), author of that 
 ‘ Apology of the Church of Eng- 
 land,’ which so delighted Queen 
 Elizabeth that she commanded it to 
 be read in every ch. within her 
 kingdom. “ So devout in the pew 
 where he prayed,” says Fuller, 
 “ diligent in the pulpit where he 
 preached, grave on the bench where 
 he assisted, mild in the consistory 
 where he judged, pleasant at the 
 table where he fed, patient in the 
 bed where he died, that well it were 
 if, in relation to him, ‘ secundum usum 
 Sarum’ were made precedential to all 
 posterity.” The house is ancient, — 
 with an open passage leading through 
 it, the common hall or “keeping” 
 room on one side, and offices on the 
 other. It is small and poor, but 
 may well be the very building in 
 which Jewel was born. The oppo- 
 nent of Jewel, Thomas Hardyng of 
 Louvain, was born in the neigh- 
 bouring parish of Combe Martin. 
 Jewel’s family had dwelt at Bow- 
 den for many generations. The 
 Church of Berrynarbor contains Nor- 
 man and E. Eng. portions (nave 
 and chancel), with a Perp. S. aisle, 
 and a very fine Perp. tower 80 ft. 
 high, which perhaps exceeds that 
 of Combe Martin in beauty. Observe 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 283 
 
 Route 18 .— 
 
 the W. window, excellent in its de- 
 tails ; the niches and canopies on each 
 side of the 3rd stage ; and the pierced 
 battlements with pinnacles. These last 
 are corbelled out over the face of the 
 wall — a peculiar arrangement which, 
 however picturesque, has resulted in 
 reducing the part above the string- 
 course to a ruinous state. It is held 
 together by spans of iron. The font 
 is Norm. 
 
 Towers of similar character (but 
 not equal) to those of 0. Martin and 
 Berrynarbor exist at Arlington and 
 Kentisbury . These 4 are the finest in 
 the district. Arlington Ch. itself is 
 modern (Gould, architect), the old 
 tower being retained. 
 
 In the village of Berrynarbor , ad- 
 joining the churchyard, the traveller 
 will find the remains of a house ori- 
 ginally built in the reign of Edw. IV., 
 and once decorated externally with 
 elaborate carvings in stone, with 
 friezes and mouldings, and the arms 
 of Plantagenet and Bonville. Nearly 
 all these decorations were removed a 
 few years ago by the proprietor, the 
 late Mr. Basset, to ornament a build- 
 ing in his garden at Watermouth. 
 
 The carriage-road from Combe 
 Martin to Ilfracombe (3 m.) passes 
 through Berrynarbor; but one on 
 foot is advised to walk to Ilfracombe 
 along the coast by Watermouth, the 
 distance being nearly the same. 
 Close to Watermouth, on the shore, is 
 
 Smallmouth , remarkable for its 2 
 caverns. The one gives you a peep of 
 the pretty bay of Combe Martin, as 
 “ a sun-gilt vignette, framed in jet.” 
 The other is entered through a narrow 
 chink, but expanding leads into a pit 
 open to the sky, which is seen through 
 a network of brambles. Hence this 
 cavern has been called Brier Cave. 
 
 1 Watermouth (A. D. Basset, Esq.) 
 is a modern Gothic building. The 
 situation is romantic, and the group- 
 ing of the neighbouring knolls 
 and ridges strikingly beautiful. 
 
 - Ilfracombe . 
 
 The castle (so called) stands at the 
 edge of a green basin, little raised 
 above the sea, but screened from it 
 by a natural embankment of rocks. 
 The richest woods enclose this vale, 
 and a stream runs sparkling through 
 the grass. This beautiful spot is 
 viewed to most advantage from the 
 sea, as the imposing mansion and 
 its verdant pastures are thence 
 seen in connection with the bleak 
 coast of Exmoor and rocks of Ilfra- 
 combe. The cove should be visited, 
 for it is a wild and cavernous recess. 
 It is the mouth of the little stream, 
 and one side of it is formed by a 
 hillock popularly known as Saxon's 
 Burrow . Between it and Ilfracombe 
 is the ferny dell of Chamber Combe. 
 This, a corruption of Champer- 
 nowne’s coombe, is an ancient manor 
 held at different times by Champer- 
 nowne, Bonville, and Grey. The 
 old house is worth a visit. 
 
 2 5 Ilfracombe (often in old books 
 called Ilfordcombe). (Inns: Ilfra- 
 combe Hotel (best). This is a mag- 
 nificent modern building (opened 
 1867) with fine public rooms, and 
 200 bedrooms. The accommodation 
 is good, and the charges moderate. 
 The house is well placed and com- 
 mands fine views ; Britannia Hotel ; 
 Clarence Hotel ; Packet Hotel.) 
 This little watering place (pop. 3851) 
 is well known for the picturesque 
 forms of the surrounding hills. But 
 its principal attraction is the coast, 
 which, stamped with a peculiar cha- 
 racter by the irregularity of its out- 
 line, presents a front of huge dark 
 rocks and chasms. Here there are 
 no ranges of lofty cliffs descending to 
 the sea in mural precipices ; but a 
 chain of unequal heights and depres- 
 sions. At one spot a headland, some 
 500 ft. high, rough with furze-clad 
 projections at the top, and falling 
 abruptly to a bay; then, perhaps, 
 masses of a low dark rock, girding 
 a basin of turf, as at Watermouth ; 
 again, a recess and beach, with the 
 
284 
 
 Sect. I 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouih to Hartland . 
 
 month of a stream ; a headland next 
 in order : and so the dark coast runs 
 eastward, passing from one shape 
 to another like a Proteus, until it 
 unites with the massive sea front of 
 Exmoor. 
 
 This rocky shore has also interest 
 in another respect. It is a favourite 
 haunt of those wonderful and beauti- 
 ful forms of life so recently brought 
 to our notice by such men as Gosse, 
 who at Ilfracombe found his acorn- 
 shell, with “ its delicate grasping 
 hand of feathery fingers” — his ma- 
 drepore , “ translucent, looking like 
 the ghost of a zoophyte ” — his po- 
 lype, with “ its mimic bird’s head ” 
 — and his anemone , which, cut across 
 transversely, “ feeds at both ends at 
 the same time.” ‘ A Naturalist’s 
 Hambies on the Devonshire Coast’ 
 (Van Voorst) may well be recom- 
 mended to those who are fond of 
 such pursuits, and who will here find 
 that the tides are very favourable for 
 their purpose, the lowest water of 
 the spring-tides occurring near the 
 middle of the day. 
 
 The manor of Ilfracombe has be- 
 longed to many noble families and 
 distinguished individuals — Sir Philip 
 Sidney, the Martyns, Audleys, and 
 Bourchiers, Earls of Bath. The pier 
 was originally built by the Bour- 
 chiers, and enlarged in 1829 by Sir 
 Bourchier P. Wrey, Bart ,the present 
 lord of the manor. 
 
 As a seaport the town was once of 
 some consequence, having contributed 
 G ships to the fleet of Edward III., 
 while one only w as sent from the Mer- 
 sey ; a fact which is curious as 
 show ing the change which time has 
 effected in the relative importance of 
 these harbours. Ilfracombe has been 
 the scene of some historic incidents. 
 In 1644, during the Rebellion, it was 
 taken by a body of horse under Sir 
 Francis Doddington : and in 1685, 
 after the defeat of the Duke of Mon- 
 mouth at Sedgemoor, Colonel Wade 
 and a number of fugitives here seized 
 a vessel, which they victualled and 
 
 carried to sea. They were, however, 
 intercepted by a frigate and forced to 
 return. The colonel was afterwards 
 captured near Lynton, but ultimately 
 pardoned. 
 
 The new hotel, the many new 
 terraces and villas, and the building 
 which is everywhere in progress, 
 indicate the increasing favour with 
 which Ilfracombe is regarded by the 
 crowd of autumn tourists. The 
 railway in progress from Barnstaple 
 will give increased facility for 
 reaching it ; and it must be admitted 
 that those who desire quiet and com- 
 parative solitude will do better to 
 pitch their tents at Westward Ho or 
 at Lynton. Bnt neither of those 
 places possesses the resources of Il- 
 fracombe, and the neighbourhood is 
 of great beauty and interest. 
 
 The Harbour is a romantic recess, 
 protected very completely by ram- 
 parts of rock. It runs parallel with 
 the shore, from which it is separated 
 by Lantern Hill and a stout ridge of 
 slate ; whilst Helesborough , a headland 
 447 ft. in height, juts out at the en- 
 trance. 
 
 On Lantern Hill stands the light- 
 house, about 100 ft. above the sea, a 
 quaint-looking building for the pur- 
 pose, and, in fact, an ancient chapel 
 formerly dedicated to St. Nicholas, 
 and the resort of pilgrims, but which 
 probably at all times displayed a light 
 for the guidance of flshermen. A part 
 of it is now fitted as a news-room for 
 the inhabitants and visitors. 
 
 The Church , a venerable structure 
 — restored by the care of the present 
 (1872) vicar — in a delightful situa- 
 tion, is of various periods — Norm., 
 Trans., and Dec. The tow’er, which 
 rises in the centre of the N. aisle, 
 and projects into the ch., is Norm., 
 w r ith Perp. battlements and pinnacles. 
 The corbels in the nave are curious, 
 and the Dec. piscina very good. 
 Here are monuments to the me- 
 mory of the mother of John Prince, 
 author of the ‘ Worthies of Devon/ 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 285 
 
 Route 18 .— 
 
 and Capt. Bowen, R.N., who fell 
 in the disastrous attack upon Tene- 
 riffe by Nelson. The historian Cam- 
 den was “lay” prebendary of this 
 ch., which is a “ prebend ” attached 
 to the church of Salisbury. There 
 is a tradition that Camden lived 
 here at one time. A good modern 
 church (Hayward, of Exeter, archi- 
 tect) has also been built here. 
 
 The Baths , a Doric building 
 erected in 1836, communicate by a 
 tunnel with a part of the shore which 
 was formerly inaccessible from the 
 land except at low water. The cliffs 
 present a picturesque scene, and are 
 pierced with a large cavern called 
 Crewkhorne. 
 
 In the immediate vicinity of the 
 town you should visit Lantern Hill; 
 Capstone Hill , just W. of the harbour, 
 and marked by a flag-staff ; the Sea- 
 walk round Capstone Hill to a cove 
 called Wildersmouth ; the summit of 
 Helesborough , alt. 447 ft., crowned 
 with one of those old earthworks 
 called “ Cliff - castles,” containing 
 nearly 20 * acres, and protected on 
 the land side by a double entrench- 
 ment. You may ramble from this 
 headland through the village of Hele 
 to Watermouth , Smallmouth , and Combe 
 Martin; and W. of the town, along 
 those irregular furzy hills called the 
 Seven Tors. The coast in that direction 
 is very lonely and rugged, and well 
 seen from a sloping tongue of land 
 named Greenaway's Foot m. W.), 
 adjoining which there is a recess with 
 a vertical cliff called the Lover's Leap. 
 Here an artist should notice the pink 
 hue and satin lustre of the rocks 
 where faced by the surface of the 
 laminse, and their inky blackness 
 where broken against the grain. The 
 sea is deep and rolls with grandeur to 
 the shore, while the distant moun- 
 tains of Wales, the island of Lundy , 
 and Bull Point on the W., are fea- 
 tures in the prospect. Below the 
 Tors is a little cove in which the true 
 Maiden-hair grows (or grew. These 
 
 ■ Ilfracombe . 
 
 ferns have been so cruelly treated by 
 visitors that it is now difficult to find 
 specimens in their native homes). 
 It is called White Pebble Bay. The 
 Tors are closed, but by payment of 
 a small toll you may obtain admission 
 to the paths. 
 
 A botanist may here revel in his 
 delightful pursuit. Hear the au- 
 thoress of ‘ Ferny Combes ' — 
 
 “ The most striking flowers of N. 
 Devon belong to the coast. The 
 vernal squill , the sweet-scented ladies' - 
 tresses , and the golden blossoms of 
 the yellow-wort , opening only in the 
 sunlight, are to be found near Ilfra- 
 combe, as well as the samphire , the 
 sea-lavender , and the beautiful wild 
 balm , a rare plant.” 
 
 The visitor to Ilfracombe has an 
 opportunity of exploring the finest 
 scenery in the county by a ride or walk 
 to Lynton. He can also make an 
 excursion in a westerly direction to 
 the Valley of Jjce, Rockham , Morthoc , 
 and the Woollacombe Sands (about 
 6 m. distant). The ch. of Morthoe 
 (4J m. W.), restored 1858, has an 
 E. Eng.'chancel,a Perp. nave, and in 
 the S. transept a chapel dedicated to 
 SS. Catherine and Mary Magdalene, 
 founded by Wm. de Tracy, vicar of 
 Morthoe, 1322. His monument is 
 here an incised slab, with rudely 
 traced effigy, fully vested, and hold- 
 ing a chalice. It was assigned by 
 Camden (but without reason) to 
 the murderer of Becket, and the 
 female figures (SS. Catherine and 
 Mary Magdalene), who also ap- 
 pear on it, were locally said to be his 
 “ wife and daughter.” The tomb is 
 certainly not his; but there is reason 
 to believe that he lived in this neigh- 
 bourhood for some time after the 
 murder, and before he made his con- 
 fession to Bishop Bartholomew of 
 Exeter. His name figures in the 
 local tradition of this district. In 
 the “ Crookhorn " cavern, W. of Ilfra- 
 combe, he, say the boatmen, “hid 
 himself for a fortnight after the mur- 
 
286 
 
 Sect. 1. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 der, and was fed by his daughter 
 and to the Woollacombe sands he was 
 banished “ to make bundles of the 
 sand, and wisps of the same.” He 
 may be heard howling there on 
 stormy nights. The Tracys were 
 barons of Barnstaple, but according 
 to tradition never prospered after the 
 commission of this crime. Their 
 descendants are supposed to languish 
 under the curse of Heaven, and 
 hence 
 
 “ All tlie Tracys 
 Have the wind in their faces.” 
 
 You should walk to the end of the 
 Warren, forming the N. point of 
 Morte Bay. There is a magnificent 
 sea-view, with Lundy Island in the 
 distance. Off the point is the Morte 
 Stone, the Bock of Death (?), on which 
 no less than 5 vessels were lost in the 
 winter of 1852. There is a whimsical 
 saying, that no power on earth can 
 remove it but that of a number of 
 wives who have dominion over their 
 husbands. “ A woman’s hair,” runs 
 the proverb, “ can draw more than a 
 yoke of oxen.” It is, according to 
 another local saying, “ the place 
 which heaven made last, and the 
 devil will take first.” Actinia Aurora 
 abounds on the Morte Stone in many 
 varieties. On this coast it is only 
 found here, and at Lundy Island. 
 S. of Morthoe are the sands, and 
 
 Barricane , a delightful spot, where 
 the beach almost entirely consists of 
 shells, many beautiful and curious. 
 Among the rarer species Mr. Gosse 
 mentions the wentle-trap, elephant’s 
 tusk , cylindrical dipper , and bearded 
 nerite . The beautiful oceanic “ blue 
 snail,” lanthina communis , is some- 
 times washed up alive, and in large 
 quantities. Villida limbosa, on which 
 the lanthina is said to feed during 
 its voyage, is also not uncommon 
 during the summer months. 
 
 Steam-packets ply between Ilfra- 
 combe and Swansea from May to 
 October, and to Bristol throughout 
 the year. The Cornish boats also 
 
 call off the harbour on their pas- 
 sage between Hayle, Padstow, and 
 Bristol. 
 
 Proceeding to Barnstaple, 2 roads 
 are open to our choice; one direct, 
 11 m., and another by Braunton, 
 12^ m. The latter is by far the more 
 picturesque. It climbs in about 2 m. 
 to the high land above Ilfracombe, and 
 descends a long lonely valley, hedged 
 in by wooded hills, which sweep 
 round in crescents, the haunt of owls 
 and echoes. On the rt. is Cam Top , 
 where many years ago a Jew pedler 
 was murdered, and where, according 
 to the wild tale, his ghastly head may 
 occasionally be seen moving among 
 the bushes. 
 
 8 m. is Braunton , situated in a 
 country remarkable for its fertility, 
 and deriving its name from St. 
 Branock, “ the King’s son of Cala- 
 bria,” who is said to have arrived 
 in England from Italy in the year 
 300. On the summit of the neigh- 
 bouring hill are the remains of his 
 chapel, which, the inhabitants aver, 
 is as firm as a rock, and has re- 
 sisted the efforts of all who have at- 
 tempted to remove it. The Church will 
 repay a visit. The width of the roof 
 is imposing, covering the nave, which 
 is without aisles, and the carving is in 
 good preservation. The emblems of 
 the Crucifixion, Apostles, &c., are 
 worked on the seats and the panels of 
 the roof ; and on one of the latter a 
 sow with a litter of pigs. These 
 are in allusion to a legend that St. 
 Branock was directed in a dream to 
 build a ch. wherever he should first 
 meet a sow and her family. This 
 interesting party he is said to have 
 encountered on this very spot, and 
 here, accordingly, he founded the 
 church. The ch. has an E. Eng. 
 chancel, with a Perp. tower in the 
 place of the S. transept. The font is 
 Norm. There are S., W., and N. 
 porches. Notice a curious palimp- 
 sest Brass , to Lady E. Bourchill, 
 1548. The original form of this 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 Route 18 . — Braunton * 
 
 28 ? 
 
 very curious ch. is a problem for 
 the archseologist. “ I forbear/’ . 
 says Leland (I tin.) “ to speak of S. | 
 Branock’s cow, his staff, his oak, his 
 well, and his servant Abel, all of 
 which are lively represented in a glass 
 window of that ch.” This has long 
 perished, and the full legend of St. 
 Branock seems to have disappeared 
 just as completely. It is uncertain 
 whether he was (in spite of the 
 Calabrian story he must have been 
 one of the two) a saint of “ West 
 Wales ” or of Wales proper ; a Cor- 
 nishman or a Welshman. 
 
 On the coast, a short way from the 
 village, is the district of blown sand 
 called the Braunton Burrows , where 
 there is a lighthouse for directing ves- 
 sels to the entrance of the Taw and 
 Tor ridge, and the ruins of an old 
 building called St. Ann’s Chapel. Many 
 curious plants find a congenial soil 
 among these sandhills, particularly 
 the round-headed club-rush , one of the 
 rarest in Britain (Gosse). Mr. Gosse 
 also mentions the small buglos , the 
 rare musky stork 9 s-bill, the viper’s buglos , 
 the prickly saltwort , the fuller’s teazel , 
 2 species of spurge , euphorbia peplus , 
 and the more uncommon euphorbia 
 Portlandica . There is a good example 
 of a raised beach between the burrows 
 and Baggy Point, the S. horn of Morte 
 Bay, where the great sea stock is to 
 be found upon the cliffs. Between 
 Taunton Down and the burrows 
 there is, beneath the raised beach, a 
 large granite boulder, which has 
 been disclosed by the natural de- 
 struction and removal of portions of 
 the lower beds of the beach, and now 
 occupies a small cavern at the base. 
 It is unlike any granite which exists 
 in Devon or Cornwall. The weight 
 is probably more than 10 tons. It 
 is worn smooth, but is not much 
 rounded, and Mr. Pengelly suggests 
 that its present form may have been 
 produced since its lodgment in the 
 spot it now occupies. Can it have 
 been floated to the ancient beach on 
 an iceberg? (For Mr. Pengelly’s 
 
 1 paper on these raised beaches see 
 I ‘ Trans, of the Devon Assoc.,’ vol. ii.) 
 
 | Beyond Braunton the road reaches 
 the river Taw at the farmhouse of 
 Heanton Court, once a seat of the 
 Basset family, and in m. com- 
 mands a very pretty view of 
 
 4^ m. Barnstaple (see Rte. 17). 
 
 From Barnstaple proceed by rail to 
 Bideford, 9 m. (see Rte. 17) ; thence 
 the distance to Clovelly is 11 m. W. 
 (If the tourist travels by carriage or 
 on horseback, he must procure at the 
 New Inn a key of the drive, at Clo- 
 velly, called the Hobby ; if on foot, 
 he can step over the gate.) 
 
 Proceeding to Clovelly — ' 
 
 4 m. from Bideford, about 1 m. 
 off the road rt., is Alwington ch., with 
 a fine Perp. tower of unusual charac- 
 ter. It diminishes rapidly from the 
 ground, and is very picturesque. 
 Parkham ch., 1 m. farther W., has 
 Norm, font and S. door, and a good 
 Perp. tower. 
 
 7 Here, on the rt., one of those 
 wild hollows, so numerous on this 
 coast, descends to Buckish Mill, a fish- 
 ing village, and a pretty object in 
 the view from Clovelly. From the 
 upper end of the village a path leads 
 eastward through a glen, command- 
 ing from one point a little patch of 
 sea, which appears as if it had been 
 caught up and imprisoned by the hills. 
 
 l£ Turn into the Hobby by the gate 
 on the rt. (Persons are stationed at 
 each of the gates leading to the 
 drives and walks to receive the fol- 
 lowing fees: — a carriage Is., pedes- 
 trians 6d.) The coast from Buckish 
 Mill to a point not far from the 
 promontory of Hartland is covered 
 by a dense mass of foliage sloping 
 to precipitous cliffs. The Hobby, 
 which was a special pet with its pro- 
 jector and proprietor, the late Sir J. H. 
 Williams, is an excellent road pass- 
 ing for 3J m. along this magnificent 
 sea-boundary, winding the whole dis- 
 tance through woods; sweeping in- 
 
288 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 land occasionally to pass shadowy 
 dells, where streams fall to the shore ; 
 and commanding at all points exten- 
 sive views over the Bristol Channel 
 to the Welsh coast. After pursuing 
 it about 2 m. the stranger should 
 look out for Clovelly, which is seen 
 from the Hobby to great advantage. 
 
 Clovelly . (. Inn : New Inn.) Clo- 
 velly may be made a resting-place 
 on the way from Bideford to Bude. 
 The distance hence to Bude is 18 
 m.) It is difficult to describe this 
 remarkable village (Pop. 825) further 
 than by saying that it is the most 
 romantic in Devonshire, and pro- 
 bably in the kingdom. It is hung, 
 as it were, in a woody nook, to 
 which a paved path slants in zig- 
 zags from the gate of the Hobby. 
 But soon this little road has to break 
 into steps, and in this form it de- 
 scends through the village to the pier, 
 some 500 ft. below. A brawling 
 stream accompanies the stair-flight, 
 and is crossed at one or two places 
 by foot-bridges. The view is superb 
 — the Welsh coast about Milford 
 Haven ; Lundy Island, generally 
 more distinct, but sometimes half- 
 hidden in clouds ; and the vast plain 
 of the sea, streaked if it be calm with 
 white watery lanes. Midway in the 
 village is a terrace of about a dozen 
 square yards, commanding the coast 
 E. and W. In the former direction 
 the glen of Buckish Mill forms a pretty 
 break in the range of woods and cliffs, 
 while near at hand a small waterfall 
 (called Freshwater ) tumbles to the 
 shore. 
 
 Here the traveller should rest a 
 day at the little inn, which will en- 
 tertain him with great hospitality. 
 If it happens to be the autumn, he 
 may regale at breakfast upon her- 
 rings which have been captured over 
 night ; for Clovelly is famed for its 
 fishery, and every evening about sun- 
 set the boats maybe observed leaving 
 the shore, to drive for herrings or 
 mackerel. The night is selected for 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 this kind of fishing, as success mainly 
 depends upon the shoals coming 
 blindly upon the net, when they get 
 entangled by the gills. Moonlight 
 and a phosphorescent sea are there- 
 fore unfavourable. In thick weather 
 a Clovelly boat has captured as many 
 as 9000 herrings at a haul ; and they 
 are commonly taken here in such 
 numbers as to be sold by the maise , 
 which consists of 612 fish, and is 
 valued from 18s. to 25s. Clovelly 
 Church has some early portions ; and 
 contains a good Brass to Robt. Cary, 
 1540. 
 
 Bideford Bay , which is well seen 
 from Clovelly, is included between 
 the points of Morte and Hartland, 
 and may remind the traveller of Tor- 
 bay. It is gracefully girded by cliffs, 
 and a chosen haunt of fish; but it 
 differs from Torbay in being exposed 
 to westerly winds. Clovelly answers 
 to Brixham as the station of the 
 trawlers, and supplies the markets of 
 Bideford and Barnstaple, and even 
 of Bristol and Wales. Pilchards are 
 occasionally taken by the drift-net, 
 but the shore is too rough for their 
 wholesale capture by the seine. They 
 rarely, however, come in shoals so 
 far up the Channel. In the reign of 
 Queen Anne French privateers made 
 so many prizes on this part of the 
 coast, that they are said to have 
 called it the Golden Bay. 
 
 Travellers who like to build cas- 
 tles by moonlight may frame the 
 most beautiful and airy erections at 
 Clovelly. For this purpose they 
 should seat themselves on the little 
 terrace of the inn, when the village 
 is hushed in repose, the owl hooting 
 in the wood, “ the single broad path 
 of glory” on the sea, and the restless 
 tide just heard among the rocks. 
 
 The pier should be visited by day- 
 light, as it commands a fine view of 
 the coast. It was erected by George 
 Cary, Esq., whose family had posses- 
 sion of the manor as early as the 
 reign of Richard II. The traveller, 
 having gleaned a treasury of recol- 
 
Devonshire. Route 18 . — Clovelly — Lundy Island . 
 
 lections at the village, should next 
 proceed to 
 
 Clovelly Court (Lady Mary Williams 
 — each visitor is charged 6d. for ad- 
 mission to the park and grounds), of 
 which an entrance called the Yel- 
 laries Gate is at the top of the hill. 
 If unequal to a walk, he will be al- 
 lowed, under the escort of a guide, 
 to drive round the park ; but it is, 
 perhaps, needless to admonish him 
 that by such a lazy course half its 
 beauties will escape him. The richest 
 scenery of this enviable retreat is to 
 be found on the coast, which may 
 be easily explored by excellent paths 
 of gravel and turf. In every part 
 it presents a wilderness of grotesque 
 old oaks and cliffs, and seats are 
 placed in rare nooks and seclusions, 
 where the weather-worn rocks pro- 
 trude themselves for admiration. All 
 the beauties of this rugged woodland 
 are summed up in the Deer Park; 
 and there the mural precipice, known 
 as Gallantry Bower , falls from a 
 height of 387 ft. to the sea. The 
 finest view in the neighbourhood is 
 commanded by the summit. The 
 hills immediately W. are so beauti- 
 fully grouped that one might suspect 
 nature had been studying the pic- 
 turesque when she arranged them. 
 Rooted together in the valleys, but 
 rising at various distances in ridges 
 and knolls, they seem to mock the 
 ocean with their waves of foliage. 
 From this, the highest point of the 
 park, the visitor should descend to 
 Mill Mouth and the beach, where, 
 at the base of Gallantry Bower, are 
 some fragments of the cliff most 
 curiously curved, the bands of slate 
 resembling the ribs of a ship. They 
 are dark in colour, and one is called 
 the Black Church Rock. The coast, 
 from the mouth of the Taw and 
 Torridge to Boscastle, in Cornwall, 
 belongs to the carboniferous forma- 
 tion, which is everywhere remark- 
 able for the contortion of the strata. 
 The view westward from these 
 ruinous old crags shows the sea-front 
 [Dev. fy Corn.~\ 
 
 289 
 
 of those hills which appear so charm- 
 ing from the high ground, and you 
 may search far to find cliffs with a 
 more varied outline. At one spot a 
 cascade of some pretension tumbles 
 to the shore, and is no mean addition 
 to the scene. 
 
 The mansion of Clovelly Court is a 
 handsome structure erected in 1780: 
 the old house and its gallery of pictures 
 were destroyed by fire. 
 
 Clovelly is the nearest port to 
 
 Lundy Island ( lundi , Icelandic— 
 a puffin ; this seems the etymology, 
 but is not certain), distant about 18 
 m., so that those who have a relish 
 for exploring places seldom visited 
 can here embark on a trip to Lundy. 
 (During the summer small steamers 
 occasionally run from Bideford to 
 Lundy, and generally call at Clovelly. 
 The days of their starting are an- 
 nounced some time beforehand. This 
 of course is the most convenient way 
 of visiting Lundy). 
 
 The island is about 3| m. long, and 
 very irregular in breadth, averaging 
 about J m. It contains nearly 3000 
 acres. The surface is undulating 
 table-land, rising to about 500 ft. at 
 the lighthouse. There is only one 
 safe landing-place, at the S.E. end, 
 where there is a little bay with good 
 anchorage. Until steamers came 
 into play, u the difficulty of getting 
 to Lundy was only exceeded by the 
 difficulty of getting away. A sudden 
 shift of wind has often kept visitors 
 for weeks ; and one amusing instance 
 is on record of a party composed of 
 the incumbents of 5 or 6 parishes on 
 the adjoining coast, who had com- 
 bined for a day’s excursion and in- 
 vestigation of the wonders of Lundy, 
 being detained there over two 
 Sundays, to the dismay of their 
 respective congregations.” J. B. 
 Chanter , whose 4 History of Lundy * 
 (to which we are mainly indebted 
 for the following account), printed 
 o 
 
290 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to EcirtlancL 
 
 in the ‘ Tran sac. of the Devonshire 
 Association,’ vol. iv., is a very com- 
 plete “monograph.” Lundy seems 
 to have had a “primaeval” popula- 
 tion : since flint flakes and pottery 
 have been found in and near the many 
 small tumuli which dot the surface. 
 A sepulchral kistvaen — a block of 
 granite, raised on two upright slabs 
 — was found, a little below the sur- 
 face, in 1851. A fragment of pottery 
 remained below, but there were no 
 traces of bone. The earliest recorded 
 lord of Lundy is Sir Jordan de Mar- 
 isco (Marsh), early in the reign of 
 Hen. II. He belonged to a turbu- 
 lent race, and his island stronghold 
 was declared forfeit by Henry, 
 and given to the Knights Templars. 
 But they were unable to obtain 
 possession, in spite of an hidage 
 levied on the counties of Devon and 
 Cornwall for the siege of the island 
 — “ ad obsidendum insulam W. de 
 Marisco.” The Mariscos held it, 
 leading a piratical life there, and 
 grievously troubling the neighbour- 
 ing coast, until, in 1242, William de 
 Marisco was surprised with his 
 accomplices, and hanged in London 
 (Matt. Par., p. 518. An attempt, at 
 his instigation, had been made on 
 the life of Hen. III. at Woodstock, 
 in 1288, M. Par., p. 401 ). The island 
 was then seized by the King, and 
 although the Mariscos were after- 
 wards received into favour, they do 
 not appear to have recovered Lundy. 
 Edward II., according to Thomas 
 De la Moor, proposed to take refuge 
 in Lundy, with the younger Spencer 
 and Baldock, from his wife and the 
 insurgent barons. Lundy was a 
 favourite sheltering place for the 
 pirates who haunted the Jiay in the 
 reign of Jas. I. In 1625 the Mayor 
 of Bristol reports to the Council, that 
 3 Turkish pirates had surprised and 
 taken the island. A Spanish man- 
 of-war also “ took ” it in 1633, — rifled 
 the houses, and carried off all the 
 provisions. A Frenchman, named 
 Pronoville, fixed himself there, a 
 
 lawless and desperate pirate, in 1634. 
 Charles I. then appointed a governor, 
 — Thomas Bushel, who had worked 
 the silver-mines at Combe Martin; 
 but Lord Say and Sele set up a 
 claim to Lundy; and the King, in 
 1646, allowed Bushel to resign it to 
 him. Echard the historian asserts 
 that Lord Say and Sele, after his 
 projects had been defeated by the 
 supremacy of Cromwell, retreated to 
 Lundy ; and there is a local tradition 
 that lie died there, and was buried 
 under the W. window of St. Helen’s 
 Chapel. French privateers after- 
 wards much troubled Lundy; and 
 it is said (although a similar story 
 is told of the capture of Sark, so 
 that it becomes somewhat legendary) 
 that the island was captured in the 
 following manner in the reign of 
 William and Mary. A ship of war, 
 under Dutch colours, anchored in 
 the roadstead, and sent ashore for 
 some milk, pretending that the 
 captain was sick. The islanders 
 supplied the milk for several days, 
 when at length the crew informed 
 them that their captain was dead, 
 and asked permission to bury him 
 in consecrated ground. This was 
 immediately granted, and the in- 
 habitants assisted in carrying the 
 coffin to the grave. It appeared to 
 them rather heavy, but they never 
 for a moment suspected the nature 
 of its contents. The Frenchmen then 
 requested the islanders to leave the 
 ch., as it was the custom of their 
 country that foreigners should absent 
 themselves during a part of the cere- 
 mony, but informed them that they 
 should be admitted to see the body 
 interred. They were not, however, 
 detained long in suspense ; the doors 
 were suddenly flung open, and the 
 Frenchmen, armed from the pre- 
 tended receptacle of the dead, rushed 
 with triumphant shouts upon the 
 astonished inhabitants and made 
 them prisoners. They then quickly 
 proceeded to desolate the island. 
 They hamstrung the horses and bul- 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 291 
 
 Route 18 . — Lundy Island » 
 
 locks, threw the sheep and goats into 
 the sea, tossed the guns over the cliffs, 
 and stripped the inhabitants even of 
 their clothes. When satisfied with 
 plunder and mischief, they left the 
 poor islanders in a condition most 
 truly disconsolate. In 1748, a cer- 
 tain Thomas Benson obtained a lease 
 of the island from Lord Gower. He^ 
 was a wealthy merchant, and M.P. 
 for Barnstaple ; and, having entered 
 into a contract with Government to 
 transport convicts to Virginia or 
 Maryland (as was then usual), he 
 contented himself with taking them 
 to Lundy, where he set them to 
 build and to dig. Benson was a 
 smuggler and a “ pirate ” ; and was 
 at last obliged to take flight, having 
 defrauded the insurance offices by 
 lading a vessel with pewter, linen, 
 and salt, — heavily insuring it,— re- 
 landing the cargo on Lundy, and 
 then, having put again to sea, burn- 
 ing and scuttling the ship. The 
 island was then sold to Sir J. B. 
 Warren ; and has passed, by succes- 
 sive sale, to various owners, until it 
 was bought by the present owner, 
 W. Heaven, Esq., who makes it his 
 place of residence, and has hitherto 
 successfully resisted all attempts to 
 bring his “free island” under the 
 jurisdiction of the Devonshire magi- 
 strates. 
 
 The parish ch. of Lundy, used 
 until about 1747, was ded. to St. 
 Helena. Its site is traceable on the 
 highest part of the island. 
 
 For the geologist, Lundy possesses 
 considerable interest, as affording 
 sections at the junction of the granite 
 and the slate ; the former rock pre- 
 dominating, the latter appearing at 
 the S. end of the island. The cliff 
 scenery is grand and wild, and will 
 well repay the difficulties of a visit. 
 The western coast, facing the Atlan- 
 tic, is bolder and more abrupt than 
 the eastern. The landing-place is a 
 good subject for the artist. Starting 
 from it, and passing the Sugar Loaf 
 Bock, the watering-place, and the 
 
 abandoned granite works, the chief 
 points of interest are — the Templar 
 Rock , a mass of granite curiously re- 
 sembling (when seen in relief ) a hu- 
 man face ; near it a fort was erected 
 temp. Charles I. — named Brazen 
 Ward, from the brass guns with which 
 it was furnished ; passing blocks o f 
 granite known as the Mousetrap , and 
 the Mousehole , a combe is reached, 
 at the opening of which the Gannett 
 Rock is visible. \ m. beyond, we 
 come to the N.E. corner of the island. 
 Here the rocks are piled in wild 
 confusion ; and one, called the “ Con- 
 stable,” is according to the local story 
 a Cornish giant turned into stone. 
 Another is the Seal’s Bock. The 
 cliff on the E. side, so far, is sur- 
 mounted by a broad steep slope, 
 covered with fern, and locally called 
 the ‘‘ Siding.” This now ceases, and 
 the land ends in an inclined plane, 
 extending half a mile down to the 
 sea. “ All around here is the chief 
 resort of the wilder variety of the 
 sea-birds, the loose soil being honey- 
 combed with their nests, the hillocks 
 crowded with them, and the, shelves 
 of rock white with accumulated de- 
 posits of guano.” Passing to the 
 N.W. point, we come upon a bold 
 broken promontory, with masses of 
 granite piled in grand confusion, 
 and fringed with great insular rocks, 
 — a scene of wonderful and almost 
 savage grandeur. One projecting 
 promontory is pierced by a natural 
 tunnel, 60 ft. high and 800 ft. long, 
 through which a boat can sail. A 
 spring of fresh water is said to rise 
 in its centre, bubbling up through 
 the sea-water. Precipitous cliffs of 
 granite extend hence along the 
 western side, with grand splintered 
 and rounded pinnacles, — the latter 
 locally known as “Cheeses.” The 
 granite shows frequent dislocations ; 
 besides a remarkable chasm, or 
 series of chasms, running for a con- 
 siderable distance parallel with the 
 cliff. These are said, locally, to 
 have been produced by the great 
 o 2 
 
292 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartlnnd. 
 
 earthquake of 1755, which destroyed 
 Lisbon; but they seem rather due 
 to some great convulsion of a remote 
 geological period, although frag- 
 ments may have been severed from 
 the sides of the chasms by the Lisbon 
 earthquake, which was certainly 
 felt in Devonshire. 
 
 Toward the S.W. corner, the line 
 of coast is very sinuous and contorted, 
 and many singular caves exist at 
 the base of the granite cliffs. Ben- 
 son's Cave is said to have been used 
 for the landing of his contraband 
 cargoes ; and the Seal Cave (to be 
 approached by a boat in calm 
 weather, but from the land only, 
 with great difficulty) is a vault with 
 a narrow passage suddenly opening 
 to a spacious chamber, the resort of 
 great numbers of seals. At the 
 extreme S.W. is a cavity called the 
 Devil's Limekiln , — a chasm in the 
 midst of the heath-covered slope, 
 square at the top, where it is about 
 250 ft. wide, with nearly perpen- 
 dicular sides, gradually approaching 
 each other at the bottom, — which is 
 strewn with large blocks of alabaster, 
 some of them 20 ft. high. At one 
 side is a narrow opening, leading by 
 a natural tunnel to the beach at the 
 foot of the cliff. A vast cone of 
 granite, almost insulated from the 
 shore, is called the Shutter Rock , — 
 and the fishermen say that it would 
 exactly fit the mouth of the abyss. 
 The chasm is to be entered from 
 below, only by means of a boat, and 
 in calm weather. This is the scene 
 of the wreck of the Spanish Admiral’s 
 ship, in Canon Kingsley’s ‘ Westward 
 Ho.’ She is made to strike on the 
 Shutter Lock,— and Amyas Leigh, 
 when stricken blind, is carried to 
 Marisco Castle. 
 
 The granite ends here, in a bay 
 called the Rattles , and the slate or 
 clay-shale begins. The line of junc- 
 tion is visible along the cliffs; and 
 “ that these slates existed before the 
 intrusion of the granite is shown by 
 the very marked manner in which 
 
 they are abruptly cut oft’ by the 
 latter rock, contrary to their line of 
 strike, instead of being folded or 
 contorted round its base.”— T. M. 
 Hall. The granite seems to be of 
 the same age and character as that 
 of Dartmoor and of Cornwall. On 
 this corner are the ruins of Marisco 
 Castle , standing on the brow of the 
 cliff; and in the rock below is a 
 large excavated chamber, called (like 
 the cavern already mentioned) Ben- 
 son's Cave, but perhaps of great 
 antiquity. The peninsula of Lametry , 
 S.E. of the castle, is precipitous on 
 every side, and beyond it is the little 
 Rat Island , one of the few remaining 
 citadels of the Mus rattus , or aborigi- 
 nal black rat, once lord and master 
 of its race throughout Europe. (The 
 Mus decumanus crossed the Volga in 
 1727, and in 1730 crossed the Chan- 
 nel. They have nearly exterminated 
 their predecessors). Here we regain 
 the little bay in which is the land- 
 ing-place from which we started. 
 
 Of the Antiquities to be noticed on 
 Lundy, the most remarkable is Ma- 
 risco Castle , which was certainly in 
 existence in the 12th century. The 
 keep alone remains, and is converted 
 into cottages. Beyond it were mas- 
 sive outer walls, running along the 
 verge of the cliffs. The keep is 
 square ; with a turret at each angle, 
 now serving as a chimney. The 
 whole was refortified, and no doubt 
 remodelled, during the civil wars. 
 The foundations of many round 
 houses or towers exist in different 
 places, the most perfect being about 
 the middle of the N. part of the 
 island, W. of Tippett’s Hill. The 
 inner diam. is 15 ft. Some of these 
 are described as having been built 
 without any cement, and they may 
 have been very ancient. Tuttle now 
 remains to guide the antiquary. 
 Of St. Helen’s Chapel, with an 
 attached Oratory of St. Anne, only 
 the foundations remain. A small 
 square 4 building called John o Groat's 
 
Devonshire. 
 
 293 
 
 Route 18 . — Lundy Island, 
 
 house , at the N. end of the island, 
 was perhaps a watch-house. 
 
 The climate of Lundy is bleak 
 and inclement. The westerly- winds 
 sweep in so fiercely, that there are 
 frequent instances of cattle and stock 
 being blown over the cliff. Much 
 fog prevails. A wall across the 
 island was begun by Benson in 1752, 
 and divides the improved from the 
 unimproved parts. There are no 
 trees ; except the few pines and 
 sycamores planted by Mr. Heaven, 
 near his house, which commands a 
 grand view of the opposite coast. 
 Oats, barley, and potatoes are grown, 
 and there is a considerable number 
 of cattle and sheep. Where not 
 under the plough the ground teems 
 with wild flowers, — as various kinds 
 of sedum, pennywort, and foxgloves, 
 and particularly a dwarf-rose, not 
 above 6 in. high, which blossoms 
 profusely. The staple produce and 
 chief source of revenue have always 
 been the rabbits, with which the 
 island abounds, — and the skins, eggs, 
 and feathers of the sea-fowl. These 
 breed in myriads, chiefly on the W. 
 coast; and the collecting of their 
 eggs is a work of no little danger. 
 Lobsters abound along the E. coast ; 
 and what appears to be the real 
 white bait is sometimes taken in 
 great quantities. Granite works 
 were begun near the landing-place 
 a few years since, but have now 
 (1872) been altogether abandoned. 
 The Lighthouse , in the centre, and 
 on the highest point of the island, 
 was erected by the Trinity Board 
 about 1819. There are two lights : 
 one fixed and westerly, seen by 
 vessels coming up the channel ; the 
 other a revolving light. The tower 
 should be ascended for the sake of 
 the magnificent view. The w T hole 
 of the island is seen at once, with 
 the distant coasts of Wales and of 
 Devon. 
 
 arrive on Lundy in great flights. 
 Of the sea-birds the greater propor- 
 tion consists of the razor-billed auk, 
 the puffin, or “ Lundy parrot,” the 
 guillemot, and several varieties of 
 gulls. The name Murr is locally 
 applied to both the razor-billed auk 
 and the guillemot ,* and it is used in 
 the same manner on the Welsh 
 coast. Lundy is very rich in Coleo- 
 ptera , — which are for the most part 
 identical with the species found in 
 Wales, and not with those common 
 in Devonshire, — a curious fact, which 
 would seem to indicate an ancient 
 geological connection with the 
 Welsh coast, rather than with that 
 of Devon. The great and especial 
 charm of Lundy is “ the perfect 
 purity and freshness of colour which 
 surrounds one on every side. In few 
 other places does one see such deli- 
 cate purples and creamy whites as 
 ths fragrant Lundy heather exhibits ; 
 such pure greens, and yellows, and 
 orange tints as those of the Lundy 
 furze-brakes ; and such vivid spark- 
 ling whiteness as that of the granite 
 peaks which crop out continually 
 among the varying undulations of 
 of richest verdure.”—* G. T. The 
 Actinia Aurora has one of its N. 
 Devon habitats here, the other being 
 on the Morte Stone (see the present 
 Route, ante). It flourishes here in 
 vast colonies among the slates of the 
 southern coast, double and treble 
 the size of the Morte specimens, and 
 of every colour and variety. Other 
 anemones also are frequent. 
 
 Proceeding on our route from 
 Clovelly — 
 
 At Clovelly Cross , where we rejoin 
 the high road, are the remains of an 
 ancient camp, now known as Clovelly 
 Dikes, or Ditchen Hills. This is a 
 very large earthwork, consisting of 
 3 embankments, varying from 15 ft. 
 to 25 ft. in height — the intervening 
 ditches being about 30 paces wide. 
 
 In the late autumn, woodcocks 
 
294 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 18 . — Lynmouth to Hartland. 
 
 The innermost embankment forms 
 an irregular oblong, 130 paces long, 
 by 100 at the widest end. The other 
 embankments are irregularly formed, 
 but approach to a square with rounded 
 angles. The outermost encloses about 
 30 acres. On the E. side is an ex- 
 tensive outwork of a crescent shape, 
 with an embankment and double 
 ditch. The Clovelly Road divides 
 this from the main camp. On the 
 W. side are 2 vast entrenchments of 
 similar character. This camp de- 
 serves special notice, and must have 
 been the strongest place of defence 
 in this part of Damnonia. It is pos- 
 sibly British, but bears marks of 
 either Roman adaptation or of strate- 
 gical teaching derived from Rome. 
 The town of Artavia has been placed 
 here by some (and by some at Hart- 
 land or Barnstaple). But no Roman 
 remains have been found ; and for 
 Artavia, it is sufficient to say that it 
 is only mentioned by Richard of 
 Cirencester, whose work scholars are 
 agreed in regarding as an ingenious 
 forgery. With this exception, the 
 road to Hartland has little interest. 
 The pedestrian can pursue a more 
 agreeable but longer route through 
 the park of Clovelly Court, and by 
 the coast and Hartland Point to the 
 mouth of Hartland valley, whence 
 he can walk inland to the town of 
 that name. (At Windbury Head , 1 J 
 m. N.W. from Clovelly, he will pass 
 half of a nearly circular earthwork, 
 the rest of which has fallen into the 
 sea.) 
 
 Hartland Point (alt. 350 ft.), gene- 
 rally held to be the “ Promontory 
 of Hercules ” of Ptolemy, and called 
 Harty by Camden, occupies the angle 
 at which the Devonshire coast strikes 
 to the S.W., and is opposite to a dis- 
 tant Welsh headland, from which 
 the cliffs of Wales trend to the N. 
 It forms, therefore, the boundary of 
 the old “Severn Sea,” the Channel 
 here expanding its jaws as if to re- 
 ceive the rolling waves and clearer 
 
 water of the Atlantic. It is sin- 
 gular in its shape, projecting in a 
 ridge about 370 ft. from the neigh- 
 bouring cliff ; the summit being 
 craggy where it abuts upon the main- 
 land, but for a distance of 250 ft. a 
 flat and grassy platform, of an ave- 
 rage width of 30 ft., and bounded by 
 sheer precipices of 300 ft. The view 
 of the coast-line on either side of 
 Hartland Point is magnificent. In- 
 land, Hartland Abbey is seen stretch- 
 ing across the vale, with the lofty 
 ch.-tower on the hill above it. 
 
 In a recess a little W. of this pro- 
 montory you may find a concave 
 rock, so curved and smooth as to 
 bear no fanciful resemblance to the 
 interior of a vessel stranded on the 
 shore. You may squeeze yourself 
 at low water through an adjoining 
 headland by means of a chink in 
 which the sea “blows” at a certain 
 state of the tide, and in another 
 chasm look through a natural chim- 
 ney at the sky. This headland 
 itself is well worth examining by 
 those who visit Hartland, and may 
 be recognised as separated by a val- 
 ley from the high land, and as 
 forming a point at which the coast 
 makes a sharp turn to the southward. 
 The shore towards Hartland Quay 
 (see post ) presents a scene most wild 
 and dismal, and affords striking ex- 
 amples of arched and otherwise con- 
 torted strata. It is everywhere cum- 
 bered by ruinous walls of rock at 
 right angles to the sea ; the cliffs are 
 ribbed with bars of red schist, but 
 the dreary chaos is in a measure en- 
 livened by cascades which leap from 
 above. 
 
 4 m. (from Clovelly) is Hartland 
 Town— so called to distinguish it from 
 Hartland Quay — {Inn : King's Arms, 
 countrified and good), a retired 
 place situated 2 m. from the sea, at 
 the head of the wooded vale of 
 Hartland Abbey, which, with the 
 parish church of Stoke-Nectan, the 
 promontory of Hartland, and the 
 
295 
 
 Devonshire. Route 18 . — Hartland: Abbey ; Church. 
 
 neighbouring coast, are the objects 
 of interest. The parish is said by 
 Leland to have derived its name 
 “ from the multitude of stags.” 
 
 Hartland Abbey (Sir G. S. Stucley, 
 Bart.), one of the best-endowed and 
 most considerable in Devonshire, 
 is said (Dugdale, ‘ Monast/ vi. 435) 
 to have been founded by Gytha, the 
 wife of Earl Godwin and mother of 
 Harold, in honour of St. Nectan, 
 who, she believed, had preserved her 
 husband from shipwreck in a dan- 
 gerous storm. Gytha’s foundation 
 was for secular canons, who were re- 
 placed by Augustinians, temp. Hen. 
 II., under the auspices of Geoffrey 
 de Dinant, ancestor of the Lords Din- 
 ham. At the Dissolution, the Abbey, 
 valued at 306^. a year, was granted 
 to Win. Abbot ; and passed through 
 various hands into those of the Buck 
 (now Stuckley) family about 1824. 
 St. Nectan, to whom the abbey was 
 dedicated, is said to have been the 
 son of a Welsh “ kinglet.” His relics 
 were preserved here. The present 
 mansion was built at the end of the 
 last century, after the plan of the 
 ancient abbey, of which the (E. Eng.) 
 cloisters were preserved in part [as 
 an ornament for the basement story. 
 The house contains old carving and 
 pictures, and is situated in a delight- 
 ful seclusion. It is begirt by woods, 
 in which ferns grow luxuriantly, 
 particularly L. dilatata. 
 
 The parish Church of Hartland (lj 
 m. W .) (or, as it is properly called, 
 the Church of Stoke-Nectan — it was 
 given to the abbey by Geoffry de 
 Dinant) dedicated to St. Nectan — is 
 an exceedingly interesting building, 
 and has undergone a partial resto- 
 ration by Sir Geo. and Lady Elizabeth 
 Stucley. (It is generally called the 
 abbey church, but it was really that 
 of the parish— the abbey church has 
 been altogether destroyed.) Nave, 
 aisle, and chancel are late Dec. The 
 tower is Perp., with a very fine arch 
 
 opening to the ch. The tower is 111 
 ft. high, plain, with the exception of 
 a niche on the E. side, in which is a 
 figure of St. Nectan. The screen, ex- 
 tending across the whole ch., is nearly 
 perfect; it is early Perp., and one of 
 the best examples in the N .of Devon. 
 The cradle roofs are good, and that 
 in the N. chancel aisle has the bosses 
 gift and panels painted. The carved 
 oak pulpit, with its canopy, should 
 be noticed ; and upon it the figure 
 of a tusked goat, and the inscription 
 “ God save King James Fines” — the 
 word fines and the goat have puzzled 
 the brain of the antiquary. The Nor- 
 man font is sculptured with quaint 
 faces looking down upon other quaint 
 faces on the pedestal; the group (ac- 
 cording to the Rev. Mr. Hawker of 
 Morwenstow) being emblematical of 
 the righteous looking down upon the 
 wicked. There is a Norm, door on N. 
 side of the ch. The oldest monument 
 in the ch. bears date 1610, and is on 
 the rt. of the E. window; a brass 
 to Anne Abbott is of 1611. The 
 visitor will also notice on the wall 
 1. of the altar an inscription to the 
 memory of a Cavalier. In the ch.- 
 yard the visitor will remark the sin- 
 gularly broad slabs of stone which are 
 used as stiles; and by the chancel 
 door the tomb of one Docton, bear- 
 ing a quaint inscription, beginning, 
 “ Rejoice not over me, oh my ene- 
 mie.” The sexton will tell you that 
 the stone was once surrounded by a 
 brass rim inscribed with the follow- 
 ing verse 
 
 “Stoke St. Nectan, Hartland. 
 
 Here lies I at the chancel door ; 
 
 Here lies I because I’se poor. 
 
 The further in, the more ’s to pay ; 
 
 But here lies I as warm as they.” 
 
 The tomb, however, gives the lie to 
 the assertion of poverty, and the lines 
 may in fact be seen elsewhere (as 
 at Kingsbridge). The view over 
 the valley and sea from the church- 
 tower is very striking. From the ch. 
 the stranger is recommended to pay 
 
 Hartland Quay a visit, and to walk 
 
296 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 19. — Taunton to Lynton. 
 
 to the end of the valley, where he 
 may gain some idea of the dreari- 
 ness which characterises the coast of 
 the carboniferous formation. He 
 should descend upon the rocks for 
 a view of the cliffs, with their 
 black and rusty bands of slate, 
 and remarkable contortions. “No 
 words,” say Sedgwick and Mur- 
 chison, “ can exaggerate the number 
 and violence of these contortions, — 
 sometimes in regular undulating 
 curves — sometimes in curves broken 
 at their points of contrary flexure, 
 and exhibiting a succession of cusps, 
 like regular pointed arches— some- 
 times, though more rarely, thrown 
 into salient and re-entering angles, 
 generally of local extent, and only 
 affecting particular beds.” — Trans. 
 Geol. Soc. 1837. On the W. rises St. 
 Catherine’s Tor , a conical hill con- 
 nected with its neighbours by a 
 massive ancient wall ; and on its 
 summit have been discovered the 
 foundations of a Roman building. 
 
 There are many beautiful scenes 
 here on the coast, in a district little 
 visited and thinly inhabited. In Mil- 
 ford Valley, to the W., a lively rivulet 
 seeks the beach in a series of falls. 
 It first leaps 100 ft., then falls again 
 and again, and at last joins the sea. 
 “ Neither will the lover of the beau- 
 tiful think lightly of the valley and 
 mouth of Welcombe, or the glen of 
 Marsland, whose winding stream, 
 filled with excellent but small trout, 
 separates Devon and Cornwall.” — 
 Ferny Combes . 
 
 ROUTE 19. 
 
 TAUNTON TO LYNMOUTH AND LYN- 
 TON, BY WATCHET, DUNSTER, AND 
 
 PORLOCK. 
 
 This is by far the most striking 
 approach (though not the easiest, 
 which is by the N. Devon Rly. to 
 Barnstaple, and thence by coach) to 
 Lynmouth. The tourist will pro- 
 ceed from Taunton to Watchet by 
 rly. (14J m.), and may post thence 
 to Lynmouth through Porlock. (The 
 distance from Watchet to Lynmouth 
 is 24 m., or he may halt at Williton , 
 w'here is a good inn, Dunn’s Hotel; 
 and whence a coach runs daily to 
 Dunster and Minehead, and, in the 
 summer, to Lynton. This is the 
 most convenient way of reaching 
 Lynton by this route.) The pedes- 
 trian will find resting-places at Dun- 
 ster, at Minehead, and at Porlock. 
 The whole of the road from Dunster 
 to Lynmouth is full of beauty and 
 interest ; and the prospects are among 
 the grandest in the W. of England. 
 
 The rly. from Taunton to Watchet 
 (14£ m.) passes under the Quantock 
 Hills, and has stats, at Bishop’s 
 Lydeard, Crow combe Heathfield, 
 Stogumber, and Williton. 
 
 Watchet {Inn: Mossman’s , opened 
 in 1866 ; small, but comfortable) is 
 a place of no great interest, its prin- 
 cipal business being the tranportation 
 of iron-ore to Wales. The shore is 
 flat, but rocky. The remains of the 
 Cistercian Abbey of Cleve (about 
 2 m. from Watchet), founded by 
 Win. de Romare, son of the Earl of 
 
Devonshire. Route 19.~Watchet—JDunster * — Minehead. 
 
 297 
 
 Lincoln, in the reign of Hen. II., are 
 well worth a visit. The gatehouse 
 (of the 13th centy., with additions 
 made by the last abbot), the W. 
 walk of the cloister (15th centy.), the 
 E. E. dormitory, the E. E. entrance 
 to the chapter-house, the locutory, 
 or day room (E. E.), and the refec- 
 tory (Perp. on an E. E. substruc- 
 ture), exist; and altogether the re- 
 mains are sufficiently numerous and 
 perfect to be of especial interest to 
 the antiquary and the artist. The 
 valley in which they stand was an- 
 ciently known as Vallis Florida , the 
 flowery vale. 
 
 The tourist should proceed to 
 Dunster by Blue Anchor (2 m.), a 
 small watering-place commanding a 
 beautiful view. Around the alluvial 
 plain to the W. of it, the hilly ranges 
 circle in amphitheatrical order, wild 
 and heather covered, sweeping in 
 undulating outline from Minehead 
 to the Quantocks. In advance of 
 them rises the tower-crowned cone 
 of Dunster, and through the vista of 
 the valley of Avill looms the giant 
 Dunkery. Alabaster occurs here on 
 the shore, in irregular veins, and is 
 collected and ground for cement. 
 
 A road runs direct from Blue 
 Anchor to 
 
 3 J m. Dunster {Inn : Luttrell 
 
 Arms). Dunster is a good centre 
 for a few days’ stay, the places of 
 interest accessible from here being — 
 the Castle, Grabhurst Hill, Cleeve 
 Abbey, Blue Anchor, Minehead, 
 Porlock, Culbone, and Dunkery 
 Beacon. (The greater part of these 
 places will be found fully described 
 in the Handbook for Somerset .) The 
 inn is a 16th centy.-house. The ch., 
 Perp., with some monuments of 
 Mohuns and Luttrells, worth notice, 
 in its chancel. Dunster Castle, the 
 ancient seat of the Mohuns, and of 
 the Luttrells from the reign of Hen. 
 VII., is shown during the absence of 
 the family (the grounds are always 
 to be seen). It dates almost entirely 
 
 from the year 1580, the great gate- 
 way alone being as old as Edw. III. 
 The castle was taken by the Marquis 
 of Hertford in 1643, and afterwards 
 by Admiral Blake. The view from 
 the site of the ancient keep is fine ; 
 but not so fine as that from Grab- 
 hurst Hill, or Cony gar, the flank of 
 which we descend, toward 
 
 2 J m. Minehead {Inns : Duke of 
 Wellington ; Feathers), a pleasant 
 little watering-place, with a lovely 
 neighbourhood. In the ch. is the 
 supposed monument of Bracton 
 (Judge temp. Hen. III., and famous 
 for his treatise on the Common Law 
 of England), born at Bratton Court, 
 about I m. W. of Minehead. There 
 is a fine view from the hill above 
 the upper town. 
 
 The drive from Minehead to Por- 
 lock is one of the most beautiful in 
 Somersetshire. On each side of the 
 road rise hills of varied outline, co- 
 vered with fern and heather ; whilst 
 the rugged valley charms by its 
 abundant woods, grouped over 
 broken ground, and mingled with 
 corn-fields. Cottages and home- 
 steads here and there peep through 
 the trees with a gabled roof or lat- 
 ticed window, and the hedgerows 
 glitter with the bright leaves of the 
 holly, which abounds throughout the 
 district. At 
 
 2j m. we pass the hamlet of 
 Holnicote (Holne, hollyne = holly) ; 
 and 1. the park of Holnicote (Sir 
 T. Dyke Acland, Bart.), of which 
 the mansion was burnt in 1799. Its 
 timbered slopes are seen in connec- 
 tion with the huge side of Dunkery, 
 and a middle distance of hollow 
 wooded glens. Let no artist sleep 
 over this part of the road. From 
 Holnicote the traveller descends into 
 the vale of Porlock, and soon crosses 
 a mountain-stream, the Horner , which 
 flows from Dunkery by a romantic 
 valley. It is a wild, noisy spirit, so 
 o 3 
 
298 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 20 . — Bampton to Holsworthy . 
 
 named possibly from the British 
 hwrnwr, the Snorer. 
 
 2 m. Porlock {Inn: the Ship, a 
 humble but most hospitable house, 
 its entrance garnished with the 
 antlers of the red deer). The village 
 is picturesque, standing in a fertile 
 vale about 1 m. from the sea, in an 
 amphitheatre of hills formed by the 
 dark masses of Exmoor. The ch. 
 contains some monuments of interest. 
 Dunkery and Bossington Beacons, 
 and the hamlet of Culbone, are the 
 chief places to be visited from Por- 
 lock. (They are described at length 
 in the Handbook for Somersetshire .) 
 Dunkery (1668 ft. above the sea) is 
 the highest point of Exmoor and of 
 Somersetshire. (The walk to its 
 summit is about 4 m. from Porlock.) 
 The Malvern Hills, and the crests 
 of Dartmoor toward Plymouth are 
 both said to be visible from Dunkery 
 on a clear day. The view from 
 Bossington (80 1 ft.) is more beautiful 
 though not so extensive. Culbone , 
 3 m. from Porlock, is a most romantic 
 hamlet, with the tiniest of churches, 
 on a plain of about J of an acre in 
 extent, 400 ft. above the beach, and 
 hemmed in by wooded hills rising to 
 a height of 1200 ft. (See these 
 places further noticed in Rte. 18 — 
 Excursion from Lynmouth.) 
 
 A rough but very romantic road 
 runs from Porlock to Countesbury 
 (2 m. from Lynton), by Culbone and 
 Glenthorne ; it will be the best for 
 the pedestrian. 
 
 The carriage-road ascends Porlock 
 Hill into the moor, winding upwards 
 and commanding magnificent views 
 (the finest perhaps in the district) 
 in its ascent. (The tourist should 
 look out for this great view, which is 
 thoroughly Alpine.) 7 m. from 
 Porlock we reach the boundary of 
 Devon and Somerset — a fence and 
 gate intended to keep the half-wild 
 sheep and ponies in their respective 
 counties ; rt. is the camp of Oldbar- 
 row ; and far below, in a deep dell by 
 
 the sea, Glenthorne (see Rte. 18). 3m. 
 farther we reach Countesbury ; and 
 then descend rapidly toward the 
 gorge of 
 
 lg m. Lynmouth (see Rte. 18). 
 
 ROUTE 20. 
 
 BAMPTON TO HOLSWORTHY, BY SOUTH 
 MOLTON AND TORRINGTON. 
 
 (Bampton and Dulverton will be 
 most easily approached by the rly. 
 now in progress from Taunton to 
 Barnstaple. This rly. is open (1872) 
 as far as Wiveliscombe. At present 
 Tiverton is the nearest accessible 
 point by rly.) 
 
 Bampton {Inn: White Horse) is a 
 small secluded town (Pop. 1971) em- 
 bedded among hills in a singularly 
 beautiful country. It is 7 m. from 
 Tiverton Stat., by 2 roads, the new 
 and the old, but on these the only 
 public conveyance is a van 3 times 
 a week. The objects of interest in 
 the ; immediate neighbourhood are 
 the limestone quarries, the view of 
 the town and valley from Bampton 
 Wood (W. side of the old Tiverton 
 road), and the scenery of the first 
 mile of the Wiveliscombe road: at a 
 little distance, Pixton Park, the moun- 
 tain town of Dulverton, the border 
 of Exmoor, and, on this, the hill of 
 Haddon Down {5 m. N.E., and 1140 
 ft. high), which people often visit 
 for the sake of the view. For the 
 
Devonshire, 
 
 299 
 
 Route 20 .- 
 
 sportsman there is trout-fishing on 
 the Exe and Barle, and stag and fox 
 hunting, in the proper season, round 
 Dulverton. 
 
 Bampton is principally known for 
 its 4 great fairs, which are held in 
 the months of March, June, October, 
 and November. At these times it 
 presents an interesting scene, and is 
 a busy market for cattle, sheep, and 
 Exmoor ponies. With respect to the 
 ponies, the stranger should look well 
 to his purchase. It is a common trick 
 to offer, as a colt, a wild animal which 
 has never been troubled with saddle 
 or bridle, but which is, nevertheless, 
 the mother of a numerous offspring. 
 14,000 sheep have been brought to 
 the Oct. fair, which is the largest, 
 and held on the last Thursday of that 
 month. 
 
 Bampton (the head of an “ honour,” 
 — it was given by the Conqueror to 
 Walter of Douai) had formerly a 
 castle (which Richard Cogan had a 
 licence to crenellate in 1336), which 
 stood on a fir-crowned knoll on the 
 Wiveliscombe road, at the E. end of 
 Castle Street. This knoll is now 
 called the Mount, It belongs to Mr. 
 Badcock, and near it are some very 
 fine beeches, particularly one called 
 the Beechen-tree . At the W. end of 
 Castle Street is the Church , a Dec. 
 (chancel) and Perp. (nave) building, 
 with carved roof and screen (neither 
 very fine), and fragments of stained 
 glass. You should see the view from 
 the churchyard, where you may seat 
 yourself on stone benches, built 
 around 2 aged yews, whose chinks 
 are filled in with masonry. At Petton , 
 in this parish, is a small chapel (a 
 simple parallelogram) of E. Eng. date, 
 with a rude Dec. roof. 
 
 S. of the town is a picturesque hill- 
 side, the leading feature of the valley. 
 It is a rugged escarpment, formed by 
 the refuse of limestone-quarries , which 
 have been worked for many years, 
 and supply the neighbouring country 
 as far as S. Molton. There are in all 
 
 — Bampton. 
 
 about 15 quarries, each with a name, 
 and each with a kiln ; but some have 
 2 kilns. One of the most worth see- 
 ing and easiest of access is Karsdon, 
 on the E. side of the old Tiverton 
 road. In this is a wall of solid rock, 
 dipping N. and E., but nearly vertical. 
 In other quarries the strata may be 
 observed in a different position, and 
 income curved and contorted. The 
 limestone is in colour a delicate blue 
 and pink, and appears to be identical 
 with those of Plymouth and Torquay. 
 The quarries command an excellent 
 view of the town. 
 
 Bampton is perhaps noticed by early 
 historians. The Saxon Chronicle in- 
 forms us that in the year 614 Cyne- 
 gils, King of the West Saxons, here 
 (if the Beamdune of the Chronicle 
 represents this place) fought a furious 
 battle with the “ Wealas ” or Britons, 
 when the latter were defeated with a 
 heavy loss. (There is, however, 
 much reason to doubt whether this 
 battle did not take place at some other 
 “ Beamdune.”) The principal seats in 
 the neighbourhood are Combehead , H. 
 Badcock, Esq. ; Pixton Park, Countess 
 Dowager of Carnarvon ; Wonham, J. 
 Collins, Esq. ; Timewell House , John 
 Bere, Esq. ; Lower Timewell House , 
 Rev. R. Bere ; Stoodleigh Court , T. 
 Daniel, Esq.; Stockeridge, also the 
 property of Mr. Daniel ; and, in the 
 parish of Hockworthy, the old man- 
 sion of Hock worthy Court Hall , Godfrey 
 Webster, Esq. The ch. of Clayhanger, 
 4J m. E., has an ancient screen. 
 
 Every visitor to Bampton should 
 extend his ramble to Dulverton , a 
 romantic little town, distant 5 m. N., 
 under the heights of Exmoor, and in 
 the county of Somerset. If bound to 
 Lynton, he can post to his destination 
 from Tiverton or Exeter, by way of 
 Bampton and Dulverton, and through 
 Exmoor Forest, passing for a short 
 distance over the turf of the moor. 
 This route is frequently selected by 
 travellers ; and for those fond of 
 
300 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 20 . — Bampton to Holsworthy . 
 
 scenery a more delightful one cannot 
 he chosen. The road to Dulverton 
 passes by one long ascent and descent 
 to Exbridge. At the top of the ascent 
 is Combehead, H. Badcock, Esq., a 
 charming seat, embosomed in woods, 
 and overlooking many huge hills and 
 deep valleys. The house is partly 
 seen on the 1. The descent to Ex- 
 bridge affords a view of the country 
 rising to Exmoor, and immediately 
 in front of a remarkable hill dividing 
 the valleys of the Barle and the Exe, 
 which flow united under Exe bridge 
 in a turbulent river 40 or 50 ft. broad. 
 
 Exbridge {Inn: Blue Anchor), 2J 
 m. from Bampton, is a small hamlet 
 in a broad vale or basin, and favourite 
 head- quarters with the angler. Both 
 the Exe and the Barle abound with 
 trout. The traveller should notice 
 the view from the bridge. About 1 
 m. beyond it the road enters a valley 
 covered with trees as far as the eye 
 can reach. This is Pixton Park , pro- 
 perty of the Earl of Carnarvon. 
 Here the traveller is shaded by oak 
 and beech, and in close proximity to 
 the Barle, which will be seen between 
 the trunks of the trees. Towards the 
 close of day he may expect a salute 
 from one of the largest rookeries in 
 the kingdom, and on the opposite hill, 
 in the park, is one of the largest 
 heronries. 
 
 Dulverton {Inns : Red Lion ; Lamb ; 
 White Hart), 5 m. from Bampton, 
 in an amphitheatre of hills, which 
 are wooded in large covers for the 
 red deer. An impetuous torrent, the 
 Barle, dashes past the town under a 
 bridge of 5 arches, and running 
 noisily over ledges of rock escapes 
 from the basin by the narrow entrance, 
 where the woods of Pixton Park climb 
 the slopes, and the house frowns from 
 a height. Dulverton is a one-sided 
 place. It is situated in a cul-de-sac of 
 hills bounded N. by the great waste of 
 Exmoor. It is therefore of no com- 
 mercial importance. There is a silk 
 
 factory on the river, but it is worked 
 but leisurely. The land in the neigh- 
 bourhood is poor, and oats, sheep, and 
 cattle its principal produce. To an 
 artist or sportsman Dulverton has 
 many attractions. The scenery is 
 beautiful; the trout-fishing free to 
 the public as far as the border of the 
 forest; the stag and fox hunting 
 on Exmoor of a very peculiar and 
 exciting description. The wild deer 
 are hunted every season, the hounds 
 being kept either at Dulverton or 
 Lynton ; but they are by no means 
 so numerous as they were some years 
 ago, when they abounded in the 
 • covers near the town, and were fre- 
 quently to be seen from the church- 
 yard. Their antlers and skins will 
 be observed in the inn. The ch. 
 was rebuilt in 1855, with the excep- 
 tion of the tower. 
 
 At Dulverton you should notice 
 the views from the churchyard and 
 bridge. You should walk down the 
 path below the bridge, and explore 
 the upward course of the river ; and, 
 above all, you should ascend to an 
 open spot called Mount Sydenham , 
 in a wood above the church. The 
 prospect it commands is truly most 
 magnificent. T owards the N. you will 
 look up the valley of the Barle — a 
 wild and solitary valley, where no 
 road has yet penetrated beyond a cer- 
 tain point. Its sides are the wooded 
 covers of the red deer; the heights 
 above them naked heaths. You will 
 command the windings of the river in 
 long perspective for many miles. A 
 short but delightful excursion is to 
 Higher Combe , a hunting-box of Sir 
 T. Dyke Acland’s, and return by the 
 Barle. This will give you some idea 
 of the indescribable beauty of the 
 moorland glens. You will gain views 
 over the greater part of Devon and 
 Somerset, and descry the mountainous 
 chain of Dartmoor on the distant 
 horizon. 
 
 Those who are bound to Lynton 
 may post to it from Dulverton, over 
 the forest, but they will find the road 
 
301 
 
 Devonshire, Route 20 . — Dulverton — Hatherleigh. 
 
 hilly, and in some parts bad. For 
 an equestrian or pedestrian it is an 
 interesting route ; for a carriage the 
 preferable one would be by the Dun- 
 ster road, as far as Timberscombe, a 
 drive of great beauty, passing the site 
 of Barlinch Abbey , now an entire ruin, 
 and then winding along upward 
 through the wooded valley of the 
 Exe. 6 m. on the rt. is the white 
 tower of Exton Church , visible from 
 the valley; and 1 m. on 1. is Wins- 
 ford , a pretty and secluded village, 
 where there is an excellent inn , 
 much patronized by anglers. Before 
 reaching Cutcombe , the road ascends 
 the ridge of hills, of which Dunkerry 
 is the highest point. At Cutcombe 
 is a small public house, called “ Best 
 and be Thankful.” From this spot 
 Dunkerry can be reached with ease. 
 From Timberscombe a cross road 
 leads to Porlock. The distance by 
 the forest from Dulverton to Lynton 
 is 23 m. (charged 26 post), an easy 
 walk in a summer’s day. Red Deer 
 is the half-way house, and a good 
 road runs from Bed Deer by Simons - 
 bath to Lynton. Simonsbath is a wild 
 spot, 2 m. from Bed Deer, and 9 m. 
 from Lynton (see Index). 
 
 From the centre of Dulverton the 
 huge fir-clad hill on the W. is a pro- 
 minent object, rising high above the 
 roofs. It is called Part of Dobbs’s , in 
 accordance with a whimsical nomen- 
 clature common in the town. Thus 
 one house is called Part of Kenna- 
 way’s, another the Huntsman’s House. 
 
 Near Dulverton are Combe , an old 
 mansion 1 m. S. (John Sydenham, 
 Esq.) ; and Hollam House (Miss 
 Brague), just above the town. Dul- 
 verton is 17 m. from Dunster, a beau- 
 tiful drive; 15 m. from S. Molton, 
 post, and rather more by an ancient 
 track-way, which passes, 5 m. N.W., 
 Tor Steps , a very wild but most charm- 
 ing spot, where a series of rude stones 
 cross the Barle. There are iron- 
 mines on Exmoor, and lead-mines 
 near Molland , in the adjoining county. 
 The principal landowners are the 
 
 Earl of Carnarvon and Sir Thomas 
 D. Acland, Bart., whose seat in 
 Somerset is Holnicote, near Mine- 
 head ; in Devon, Killerton, near Exe- 
 ter. The hill above Hollam com- 
 mands one of the finest views in the 
 neighbourhood. 
 
 The town of Dulverton, says Fuller, 
 was the birthplace of Humphrey Siden- 
 frctm — “ Silver-tongued Sidenham” — 
 an eloquent preacher, who died 1650. 
 
 Proceeding on our route from 
 Bampton, we pass W. through a coun- 
 try of little interest to 
 
 18 South Molton (see Bte. 17, 
 where North Molton is also described). 
 Proceeding on this route, we reach 
 
 5 m. rt. Chittlehampton (see Bte. 
 17) ; and then, after crossing 
 
 2 m. Umberleigh Bridge , 
 
 1 m. Atherington (Bte. 17), 
 
 6 m. beyond is 
 
 Torrington (Bte. 17). 
 
 [The market town of 
 
 Hatherleigh ( Inns : George ; London 
 Inn) (Pop. 1645) is 11 m. S. of Tor- 
 rington, on the high road to Ply- 
 mouth. It is situated on an outlying 
 patch of new red sandstone, but in a 
 barren country, where the cold and 
 unfruitful soil has retarded changes 
 which have elsewhere occurred for 
 the benefit of the community, and — 
 
 “ The people are poor as Hatherleigh Moor, 
 And so they have been for ever and ever." 
 
 Besides these, which are said to be 
 local rhymes, others are frequently 
 repeated : — 
 
 “I, John of Gaunt, 
 
 Do give and do grant 
 Hatherleigh Moor 
 To Hatherleigh poor 
 For evermore." 
 
 This patch of new red sandstone 
 is about 2 m. N.W. from the termi- 
 nation of the long strip of triassic 
 rocks, which extends westward for 
 more than 20 m. from Crediton to 
 Jacobstow. A natural section on the 
 rt. bank of the river Lew, a small 
 feeder of the Torridge, shows well- 
 
302 
 
 Sect. I. 
 
 Route 20 . — Bampton to Holsworthy , 
 
 marked sandstone ; stratified, and 
 dipping at a considerable angle to 
 the river. 
 
 The Church of Hatherleigh is Perp., 
 and has remains of a fine screen, and 
 of an oak ribbed roof, of which the 
 wall plate is richly carved. The 
 manor was part of the original grant 
 to the Abbey of Tavistock, and re- 
 mained in the hands of the Bene- 
 dictines there until the dissolution. 
 In what manner John of Gaunt was 
 ever connected with Hatherleigh does 
 not appear ; and his name, popularly 
 used, may be a corruption of some 
 other. Nath . Carpenter , the mathe- 
 matician, was born near Hatherleigh, 
 in the parsonage-house of North Lew , 
 1 588. “ His ‘ Opticks,’ ” says Fuller, 
 “ would have been a masterpiece if 
 perfectly printed. But to his grief 
 he found the preface casing Christ- 
 mas pies in his printer’s house, and 
 could never afterwards recover it 
 from his scattered notes.” All the 
 seats in N. Lew Ch. are good and 
 open, with carved work (emblems 
 of the Passion, &c.) on the panels. 
 On one is the date 1537.] 
 
 Proceeding again from Torring- 
 ton : — 
 
 5 m. rt. 1 m. is a large entrench- 
 ment, forming an irregular circle, 
 called “ Henbury Fort it is made 
 by 2 banks, with a ditch between 
 them, and occupies the top of a pre- 
 cipitous and wooded hill. It en- 
 closes about 5 acres. Much charred 
 wood has been found in the ditches ; 
 and a mound (now levelled), at the 
 W. end, covered a pit in which were 
 a quantity of human skulls and bones. 
 2 cannon balls have been dug out of 
 the entrenchment. All these seem 
 to be traces of a skirmish which 
 occurred here after the surrender of 
 Torrington by the Royalists (Feb. 16, 
 1646). The king’s troops who escaped 
 from the town, first halted at Hen- 
 bury Fort, and were attacked by the 
 Parliamentarians . 
 
 1 m. further N. (E. of Buchland 
 Brewer ) is a smaller work of a 
 similar shape in a wood. 
 
 In the parish of Shebbear, due S., 
 is another of these camps, an irre- 
 gular circle, on a wooded hill. It is 
 known as Durpley Castle . There is 
 another called Ten Oaks in the parish 
 of Roborough. 
 
 Woodford Bridge , where the road 
 crosses the Torridge, here flowing 
 towards the S.E. 
 
 Holsworthy (Inns : Stanhope 
 
 Arms, best and good ; White Hart), 
 (Pop. 1724), a town about 9 m. 
 from Bude Haven, and 3 m. from the 
 Tamar, the boundary of the county. 
 The Labyrinth, formed of beech-trees, 
 planned and laid out by Lord Mahon 
 in 1821, is the only thing to be seen 
 in it. Earl Stanhope is the lord 
 of the manor. In the neighbourhood 
 are many interesting churches, such 
 as those of Bridgerule, Launcells , and 
 Kilkhampton (see Cornwall , Rte. 25). 
 These, for the most part, are of Early 
 Perp. date, and contain some old and 
 curious woodcarving. The emblems 
 of the Passion are generally repre- 
 sented on the bench-ends. The 30 
 pieces of silver appear as 3 lines 
 of circular dots, 10 in each. In the 
 direction of Hatherleigh are the an- 
 cient seats of Dunsland and Coham , 
 both belonging to W. H. B. Coham, 
 Esq. ; and Burdon, near High Hamp- 
 ton, C. Burdon, Esq., in whose family 
 it has remained since the reign of 
 Richard I. 
 
 [Hatherleigh and Holsworthy will 
 be accessible by the rly. to Bude 
 Haven (should it ever be carried 
 out), in connection with the Oke- 
 hampton line. There will also be 
 a branch to Torrington, and thence 
 to Barnstaple. (See the course of 
 these rlys., still (1872) uncom- 
 menced, on the map.)] 
 
( 303 ) 
 
 SECTION II. 
 
 CORNWALL. 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 EOUTE PAGE 
 
 2 1 . Launceston to Truro, by Bod- 
 
 min. (Road: over the 
 
 Bodmin and Goss Moors, 
 Brown Willy and Bought or ; 
 Hantergantick , JDozmare) . . 303 
 
 22. Launceston to Truro, by Ca- 
 
 melford , Wadebridge, and 
 St. Columb. (The North 
 Coast. Boscastle ; Tint a- 
 gel; Belabole Quarries; Pad - 
 stow; the Yale of Mawgan\ 
 Newquay') .. .. ..317 
 
 23. Plymouth to Truro , by Salt- 
 
 ash , St. Germans , Liskeard 
 (the Cheesewring , St.Neot’s), 
 Bodmin , Lostwithiel ( Bestor - 
 met), St. Blazey , and $£. 
 Austell. [Cornwall Rail- 
 way.] (Perranzabuloe ; Per- 
 ran Bound ; the Coast) . . 337 
 
 24. Plymouth (Bame Head) to 
 
 Falmouth, by Looe, Fowey, 
 and St. Austell (the South 
 Coast) .. .. .. 375 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 25. Plymouth to Bude Haven, by 
 
 Saltash, Callington, Laun- 
 ceston, and Stratton. (The 
 Coast from Bude to Mor- 
 wenstow) .. .. ..387 
 
 26. Tr uyo to Falmouth, by Penryn. 
 
 (Falmouth Harbour and In- 
 lets) 399 
 
 27. Truro to Penzance , by Bed- 
 
 ruth ( Portreath , Carnbrea), 
 Camborne, and Hayle {Le- 
 lant, Ludgvan). Mount’s 
 Bay, Madron .. .. 405 
 
 28. Truro to Penzance, by Hels- 
 
 ton and Marazion. The 
 Lizard. (The Coast from, 
 Helston to Penzance) .. 421 
 
 29. Excursions from Penzance. 
 
 (St. Michael's Mount, St. 
 
 Ives , Gurnard’s Head, Cape 
 Cornwall , Land’s End, La- 
 morna Cove, Scilly Islands) 437 
 
 ROUTE 21. 
 
 LAUNCESTON TO TRURO, BY BODMIN. 
 (ROAD *. OYER THE BODMIN AND 
 GOSS MOORS. BROWN WILLY AND 
 ROUGHTOR ; HANTERGANTICK, DOZ- 
 MARE.) 
 
 Launceston is generally reached 
 from Plymouth by rly., but the 
 pleasure tourist may be inclined to 
 proceed by road from Tavistock ! 
 (Devon, Rte. 14) (12 m.) through I 
 
 Milton Abbot. This is a pleasant 
 road, commanding some picturesque 
 scenery. 
 
 Launceston is easily reached from 
 Exeter by the North Devon line, 
 from Exeter to Okehampton (Rte. 6), 
 and thence by coach (Rte. 6). The 
 distance from Okehampton is 18 m. 
 
 Launceston (Inns: White Hart; 
 King’s Arms. Pop., including St. 
 Thomas’s and St. Stephen’s, 4489) 
 is situated in a fertile district, and 
 about 2 m. from the rt. bank of 
 the Tamar. This was one of the 
 
304: 
 
 Route 21 . — Launceston to Truro. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 principal strongholds of the British 
 chieftains : but long before the Nor- 
 man Conquest it had passed from 
 them, and had been held in demesne 
 by the great English earls, Godwin 
 and Harold, the latter of whom is 
 recorded as its possessor ‘ ‘ on the 
 day when K. Edward was alive and 
 dead'’ (Domesday). After the Con- 
 quest it was granted, with the greater 
 part of the shire, to Robert of Mor- 
 tain. The present name, Laun- 
 ceston (“ Launsatton ” or “ Lanza- 
 neston ” in records, temp. John and 
 Hen. III.), has been explained to 
 mean “ castle-town,” or “ enclosure 
 of the castle-town ” (Lan-cester-ton). 
 But this is not certain ; nor is it by 
 any means clear whether this name 
 preserves in any form whatever the 
 name of the place in the British pe- 
 riod. In the Domesday survey it is 
 called Dunheved , — a purely English 
 name, signifying “ hill-head,” or the 
 “top of the hill.” (The word occurs 
 elsewhere. Bishop Stapledon dates 
 a letter from “Dounheved juxta 
 Shaftesburi” — now Donhead.) 
 This name may perhaps have been 
 used for the castle on its mound, 
 while the town below was “Lan- 
 cester-ton but both names show to 
 how great an extent all this part of 
 Cornwall had been Anglicized before 
 the arrival of the Norman Con- 
 queror. 
 
 The objects of curiosity are the 
 castle, the ch., and some trifling 
 remains of an old priory; in the 
 neighbourhood — W errington Park, 
 Endsleigh, and Trecarrel, once the 
 seat of an ancient and now extinct 
 Cornish family of the same name. 
 
 The Castle is one of three at pre- 
 sent standing in this part of the 
 country; the others being Trematon, 
 near Saltash, and Restormel, near 
 Lostwithiel. These castles have 
 many features in common, especially 
 the high ‘motte’ or mound. They 
 differ at once from the existing re- 
 mains of earlier Norm, fortresses, 
 and from those of the Edwardian 
 
 period ; and date, in all probability, 
 from the long reign of Henry 111. 
 The mounds of Totnes and Plymp- 
 ton, in Devonshire, may be com- 
 pared. 
 
 The height of Dunheved gradually 
 declines and narrows towards the 
 N. ; and near its point, but still high 
 above the river Kensey, or Atterey, 
 a natural knoll of trap-rock has been 
 scarped down, and terraced. Upon 
 the summit, considerably more than 
 100 ft. above the river, is a circular 
 keep tower, 18 ft. diameter inside, 
 the walls of which are about 12 
 ft. thick. Around this, leaving 
 a passage perhaps 10 ft. broad, form- 
 ing the “ chemin de ronde,” is a 
 concentric wall, placed like a coro- 
 nal upon the cap of the hill. Around 
 and outside it is a narrow walk, pos- 
 sibly once defended by a parapet. 
 All this part of the castle is very 
 late Norman. 
 
 The inner tower had a ground-floor 
 and two stories. The door is on the 
 N. side, and is the only opening of 
 any kind into the lower chamber, 
 which probably was for stores. This 
 chamber was lofty, and had a boarded 
 roof, which formed the floor of the 
 1st story. 
 
 On the 1. of the entrance passage 
 a stair formed in the thickness of the 
 wall led to the first floor, and in its 
 way winds half round the circle. It 
 is dark, having no windows. The 
 first floor was just clear of the outer 
 wall, and had 2 windows, on opposite 
 sides. The stair enters at the side of 
 one of these, and passing through the 
 opposite side ascends, also in the wall, 
 to the second floor. The fifst floor, 
 on which was the principal apart- 
 ment, has a chimney-piece and hearth 
 on the N. side. The roof of this, 
 and the floor of the upper story, were 
 of wood. Much of the wall at this 
 elevation is destroyed, but it is evi- 
 dent that the stair ran on to the upper 
 story, and thence to the battlements, 
 now wanting. The walls gather in, 
 dome-like, with the 2nd-floor roof. 
 
Cornwall. Route 21.— Launceston : the Castle . 
 
 305 
 
 This tower is very plain, but its 
 entrance arch (the present one is on 
 the ancient pattern), and passage, 
 and stair have all pointed (Trans.- 
 Norm.) arches. The fireplace is mu- 
 tilated, but its side joints and corbels 
 are decidedly Norman. 
 
 The annular wall has a southern en- 
 trance, therefore not opposite to that 
 within. On the 1. from the entrance 
 a passage in the wall leads to the 
 battlements. Towards the N.E. there 
 has been a “ Garderobe ” in the wall, 
 with a sewer and loophole; above 
 also there appears to have been a 
 sewer. The top of this annular wall 
 is on a level with the first floor of the 
 tower, and the joist-holes round the 
 exterior of the latter show the space 
 between to have been roofed with 
 timber. The base of this wall, out- 
 side, batters, and at the top of the slope 
 is a bold well-cut cordon of stone. 
 
 The tower is rent by a slight fissure, 
 and tilted up towards the W. side. 
 The annular wall is rent, but not 
 tilted. It seems, therefore, probable 
 that the tower held together, and so 
 was lifted bodily by the power which 
 has evidently been used, whereas the 
 wall gave way. All the work is 
 rudely built of slate, with very little 
 ashlar remaining. 
 
 These 2 buildings crown the knoll, 
 and, from the outer entrance, stairs 
 descend the steep to a gate-tower at 
 the base of the mound. These stairs 
 and a part of the wall are modern, 
 but it is evident that there was always 
 a stair here covered by a wall on 
 each side, roofed with timber, and 
 on the E. side no doubt battlemented. 
 Probably the base of the mound was 
 also girt by a low wall of which the 
 gate-tower formed a part of the cir- 
 cuit. Traces of the walls are seen 
 on its W. side, and there is a small 
 platform also included. The gate 
 tower is Trans.-Norm. 
 
 The rest of the space is occupied 
 by the courts (ballia) of the castle, 
 the area of which is considerable, and 
 until recently held the County Courts. 
 
 The mound occupies the N.E. corner. 
 A wall skirting the mound, a little 
 above its base, appears to have en- 
 circled the whole. It may be seen ex- 
 tending along the S.E. face. Thence 
 it swept to the W., and included 
 the S. gatehouse, temp. Hen. VIII., 
 still standing, with pointed drop arch, 
 large opening, portcullis grooves, and 
 traces of the ribs of the vault. Out- 
 side is the same cordon seen in the 
 keep; a drawbridge led across the 
 ditch from this gate. The arches in 
 a part of the bridge, lately walled 
 up, may still be seen. The wall W. 
 of the gate remains in parts. The 
 N. gate has a drop arch, but, within, 
 its lodge arch is sharply pointed. 
 
 On the N. and W. sides the castle 
 defence is a deep natural valley ; on 
 the S. and E. the valley has been 
 deepened, and still, though built 
 upon, bears the name of Castle - 
 Ditch. The Deer Park, still so called, 
 extended S.W. from the Castle gate. 
 This gate is late Perp., but it is 
 evident that the whole of the rest of 
 the building — gate, tower, annular 
 wall, and circular keep, are by one 
 hand, and of one time. It is .very 
 possible, from the aspect of the 
 place, that even in its unscarped 
 state it was naturally strong, and 
 may have been employed by the 
 Celts or Saxons for defence. At 
 present nothing is visible that can be 
 regarded even as Early Norman. 
 
 Launceston Castle or “ Dunheved ” 
 was one of the chief manors granted 
 by the Conqueror to his half-brother, 
 Robert of Mortain, who was created 
 Earl of Cornwall, and appears in 
 Domesday as lord of the greater part 
 of the county. He is said to have 
 built a castle here ; but it is at least 
 improbable that any part of the 
 existing structure is of his time. 
 Castle and manor passed with the 
 earldom, and were at last merged 
 in the Duchy of Cornwall. The 
 castle appears to have been a ruin 
 as early as the reign of Edw. III., 
 and Carew speaks of its crum- 
 
306 
 
 Route 21 . — Launceston to Truro . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 bling condition in 1602. In 1645 it 
 was fortified for Charles I. by Sir 
 Richard Grenville, and in March of 
 the following year the garrison sur- 
 rendered to the parliamentary troops 
 under Fairfax. This was the closing 
 scene in the military annals of the 
 castle. The Dukes of Northumber- 
 land, High Constables of Launceston 
 under the Duchy, have expended a 
 considerable sum in most judicious 
 repairs, which are calculated to pre- 
 vent for some time any further decay. 
 The precinct has been tastefully laid 
 out as a public pleasure-ground. 
 
 The Church of St. Mary Magdalen is 
 
 a late Perp. building, which has been 
 recently restored. It is entirely con- 
 structed of granite, and was erected 
 in 1524 by Sir Henry Trecarrel, of 
 Trecarrel ; the story being that Sir 
 Henry, instead of finishing his house, 
 used the stone which had been cut for 
 that purpose in building this church. 
 The whole structure is panelled, and 
 the panels are filled with armorial 
 bearings, flowers, and other emblems. 
 Amongst other carvings occur St. 
 Martin parting his cloak, and shields 
 with the Trecarrel arms. A num- 
 ber of shields encircle the edifice, 
 embossed with letters, which together 
 (beginning at the priests’ door with 
 “ Ave Maria ”) form sentences re- 
 ferring to the Blessed Virgin and 
 St. Mary Magdalene, and an apo- 
 strophe on the sacredness of the 
 building. The tower, which stands 
 apart, but is connected with the 
 ch. by a large vestry-room, is of 
 earlier date, and built of a dif- 
 ferent material. The S. porch is 
 remarkable for its beauty. There 
 is a Norm, font (figured in Van 
 Voorst’s vol. of fonts). In the ch. 
 are modern stained glass windows by 
 Wailes , Hardman , Bell , and Cf Con- 
 nor. The chancel contains the monu- 
 mental tomb of Sir Hugh Piper, “ the 
 famous loyalist of the West,” and his 
 Dame Sibylla, “very livelily repre- 
 sented in marble,” the one in armour, 
 
 and the other in brocade. Sir Hugh 
 had been Lt.-Governor of the citadel 
 and island (St. Nicholas) at Ply- 
 mouth, and constable of Launceston 
 Castle. He was active on the king’s 
 side all through the Civil War, and 
 was present at the battles of Stratton 
 and Lansdowne. He died in 1687. 
 The wooden pulpit is polygonal and 
 curious. 
 
 A Norman arch with 8 jamb shafts 
 and chevron mouldings, forming the 
 entrance of the White Hart Inn, was 
 removed from the ruins of the Priory , 
 founded for Augustinian canons in 
 the reign of Hen. I. by William 
 W arelwast, bishop of Exeter. Several 
 fragments of the Priory are incor- 
 porated with the houses now occu- 
 pying its site, which was described 
 by Leland as “in the far west part 
 of the suburb of the town, under the 
 root of a hill by a fair wood-side.” 
 
 In addition to these ruins of castle 
 and priory, some remains of the town 
 walls may be seen in Launceston. 
 The only gateway now standing is 
 that on the S.E., which is of Deco- 
 rated date, and forms the entrance 
 from Devonshire. St. Stephen's , 1 m. 
 N., is a fine granite ch., with a Per- 
 pendicular tower and in part Early 
 Eng. nave. 
 
 In the Church of St. Thomas , close 
 to Launceston, there are a very orna- 
 mental pair of doorhinges of the 15th 
 centy., and a good font. 
 
 At Launceston, in 1643, when the 
 fortunes of Charles were at a very 
 low ebb, the tide of a sudden turned 
 and drove the Roundheads out of 
 Cornwall. Sir Ralph Hopton and 
 Sir Beville Grenville were shut into 
 the county by Sir Alexander Carew 
 and Sir R. Buller, who lay at this 
 town to prevent their escape. The 
 Parliamentary commanders, to be- 
 guile their inactivity, instituted legal 
 proceedings against “ divers persons 
 unknown, who had lately come into 
 Cornwall, armed contra pacem .” Upon 
 this Hopton appeared, and, producing 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 307 
 
 Route 21 . — Werrington. 
 
 the commission of the king to the 
 Marquis of Hertford, appointing him 
 general of the West, and his own 
 commission from the marquis, ob- 
 tained a verdict of acquittal, and was 
 thanked by the jury. Hopton then, 
 in turn, preferred an indictment 
 against Buller and Carew. The jury 
 found them guilty, and an order was 
 granted to raise the posse comitatus , 
 “ for the dispersing that unlawful as- 
 sembly, and for the apprehension of 
 the rioters.” A force of 3000 well- 
 armed foot was speedily in motion; 
 Buller and Carew were driven from 
 Launceston, and the Royalists found 
 themselves masters of Cornwall. — 
 “ The gentlemen of this county,” says 
 lady Fanshawe, in her Memoirs, “ are 
 generally loyal to the crown and hos- 
 pitable to their neighbours, but they 
 are of a crafty and censorious nature, 
 as most are so far from London” 
 
 A rly. is authorised from Laun- 
 ceston by Camelford to Bodmin ; but 
 there is little prospect (1872) of its 
 commencement. 
 
 Werrington , formerly belonging to 
 the Duke of Northumberland, now 
 to — Deakin, Esq., and Endsleigh, the 
 cottage of the Duke of Bedford, are 
 both situated on the Tamar, the one 2 
 m. N., and the other 9 m. S. The large 
 park of Werrington, overgrown with 
 fern and well stocked with deer, is 
 picturesque. Tickets of admission to 
 Endsleigh ( Devon , Rte. 14) may be 
 obtained at the White Hart. Tre - 
 bartha Hall , the seat of Francis 
 Rodd, Esq., and Trecarrel , are also 
 worth seeing. Trebartha is in the 
 parish of Northill, about 7 m. to- 
 wards Liskeard, under the rocky 
 escarpment of the moors. S.W. of the 
 house a tributary of the river Lynher 
 falls in a cascade, where the botanist 
 may find Hymenophyllum Tunbridgense , 
 or filmy-leaved fern, a rare plant. 
 {Hymen. Wilsonii , nearly related to H. 
 Tunb., grows abundantly on Zennor 
 Down, near the Gurnard’s Head). 
 Trecarrel stands at the head of a 
 
 valley descending to the Inny river 
 (a tributary of the Tamar), about G 
 m. S. of Launceston, and 1 J m. W. 
 of the church-town of Lezant. The old 
 mansion was built about 1540, by Sir 
 Henry, the last of the Trecarrels, and 
 in the Rebellion was honoured by a 
 visit from Charles I., who slept in it 
 on his road into Cornwall. The hall 
 and a small chapel of granite are in 
 excellent preservation. The hall has 
 a fine cradle roof ; and in the wall 
 over the dais a square opening from 
 the lord’s chamber. The Chapel, 
 detached from the house, standing 
 in the centre of the quadrangle, has 
 the walls and roof perfect. At the E. 
 end the altar platform remains ; with 
 piscina and pillar bracket for an 
 image. This part of the building is 
 the whole height ; the W. part is in 
 two stories, with fireplace and garde- 
 robe in the upper room. All is late 
 Perp., though some portions appear 
 earlier than Sir Henry’s time, to 
 whom the building of the house is 
 usually assigned. He may have 
 completed a portion, and have left 
 unfinished the rooms beyond the 
 da'ised end of the hall, using .the 
 stone for St. Mary’s Ch. The hall is 
 now used as a cider-cellar ; the house 
 is a farmhouse ; and, alas ! the little 
 chapel a hen-roost. From Lezant 
 you should proceed 1 m. further 
 along the high-road to Callington, 
 to the Sportsman’ s Arms , a con- 
 venient house of entertainment. A 
 lane leads direct from it to the Carth- 
 amatha Rocks , on the Tamar (3 m.), 
 one of the finest points of view in the 
 county (see Rte. 14, Exc. from Tavi- 
 stock), Another excursion may be 
 made to Lidford and Brent Tor 
 (Rte. 6). 
 
 Proceeding on our route, we leave 
 Launceston by the Old Falmouth rodd, 
 which, passing for a long distance over 
 elevated moors, the “ backbone ” and 
 watershed of Cornwall, is one of the 
 most bleak and lonely in the king- 
 dom, It is, however, improving, and 
 
308 
 
 Route 21 . — Launceston to Truro . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 much changed since the days when 
 a traveller could find on it “ neither 
 horse-meat nor man’s meat, nor a 
 chair to sit down.” 
 
 3 m. rt. to Truro by Camelford 
 (Rte. 22). 
 
 1 m. Holloway (Holy-way) Cross, 
 where one of the ancient crosses 
 stands near the turnpike. It displays 
 the usual type of Cornish cross — a 
 circular disk of granite, with a cross 
 on it in low relief, standing on a 
 short flattened shaft. 
 
 J m. The road passes the Inny , a 
 tributary to the Tamar. On its wild, 
 granite-strewn banks in the parish of 
 St. Clether , are remains of a little 
 chapel over Basil's Well , a spring 
 which rises under the altar. Basil , 
 now a farm, was the ancient seat of 
 the Trevelyans, one of whom, says 
 the tradition, fortified himself in 
 his manor-house here against the 
 sheriff seeking to arrest him for debt. 
 The sheriff, having in vain tried 
 gentler measures, ordered an attack 
 on the house by his javelin men. 
 But Trevelyan, appearing above the 
 court wall, intimated that he pos- 
 sessed javelin men of his own, and 
 caused half-a-dozen hives of bees to 
 be flung among the assailants, srho 
 disappeared immediately. 
 
 3 m. Fivelanes. rt. 1 J m. Alternon , 
 one of the most extensive but barren 
 parishes in Cornwall. Its chief pro- 
 duce is said to be water. It is named 
 from St. Non or Nonna, the mother 
 of St. David. The church is ded. 
 to her, and she had a small chapel 
 here, licensed by Bp. Stafford in 
 1400. The Church , which is fine, is 
 chiefly Perp., but has Norm, and 
 later portions. The tower, 110 ft. 
 high, of 3 stages, is perhaps Trans.- 
 Norm. to the 2nd stage: the rest 
 of the 15th centy. There is a very 
 fine W. arch. The seat ends bear 
 date 1500 — “Robert Dawe, maker 
 of this worke.” The screen is com- 
 plete. A railing, date 1684, ex- 
 
 tends across both aisles and chancel. 
 St. Non’s Well here was formerly of 
 great repute as a cure for madness. 
 The water running from it, says 
 Carew (‘ Survey of Cornwall/ writ- 
 ten temp. Eliz.) fell into a square 
 walled plot, which might be filled to 
 any depth desired. “ Upon this 
 wall was the frantic person put to 
 stand, his back towards the pool, and 
 from thence, with a sudden blow in 
 the breast, tumbled headlong into the ; 
 pond ; where a strong fellow, pro- 
 vided for the nonce, took him and 
 tossed him up and down, alongst and 
 athwart the water, till the patient, by 
 foregoing his strength, had somewhat 
 forgot his fury. Then he was con- 
 veyed to the church and certain 
 masses said over him/’ (The well 
 of St. Cleer (Rte. 23) was used in a 
 similar manner. There is another 
 St. Non’s well in the par. of Pelynt 
 (Rte. 24). Trelawne, in the parish 
 of Alternon, was the cradle of the j 
 Trelawneys, who afterwards became 
 the owners of another Trelawne in j 
 the parish of Pelynt, now the family 
 seat (see Rte. 24). It is possible that • 
 the second St. Non’s well may have 
 been due to this migration. 
 
 St. Non’s well, on the coast near ' 
 St. David’s in Pembrokeshire, is still 
 celebrated for its marvellous cures. 
 The churches of Alternon and of 
 Davidstow (about 6 m. N.W., see 
 Rte. 22), ded. to the great saint of f 
 Wales and his mother, indicate the I 
 close connection which anciently 
 existed between the Welsh of the j 
 Principality and those of Cornwall. 
 
 (3 m. N. of Alternon is the church 
 of Laneast , standing under the ridge ! ' 
 of Laneast Down. It has E. E. 
 portions (nave and transept), with a 
 lofty W. tower. There is a “holy > 
 well ” at Laneast). 
 
 \ m. Trewint (Corn, “white place”). ; 
 
 1 m. beyond this village the traveller ! i 
 rises into the Bodmin Moors — high- 
 lands of granite, which extend to 
 within 4 m. of theVounty town. Con- 
 siderable portions of this district, and 
 
300 
 
 Cornwall. Route 21 . — Bodmin Moors — Brown Willy. 
 
 especially the valleys, have of late 
 years been enclosed and brought 
 under the plough ; yet much remains 
 to interest those who are fond of 
 wild scenery. For many miles the 
 waste stretches forth its tinted hills 
 in one expanded scene of sterility, 
 whilst in various directions rise soli- 
 tary cams , which, heaped with granite, 
 show apparently all that the moor 
 possesses of value. A mineral trea- 
 sure is, however, extracted from the 
 valleys, which, during the course of 
 ages, have been silted up by disinte- 
 grated granite, throughout which is 
 disseminated a considerable quantity 
 of tin. The traveller will find every 
 bottom , as the Cornish term their 
 valleys, farrowed by stream- works, 
 most of which have long since been 
 abandoned : few are now in activity. 
 The road crosses the Fowey river 
 (here a mere streamlet), descending 
 from its source on Brown Willy, 
 about 1 m. before reaching 
 
 3 m. The Jamaica Inn , hitherto a 
 solitary half-way house, but now 
 likely to be centred in a village, as a 
 ch., parsonage, and school, have been 
 erected here by Mr. Rodd, of Tre- 
 bartha Hall, the proprietor of the 
 land ; — establishments hailed with 
 much satisfaction by the moor-men, 
 who declare that their children “ are 
 quite mountainerers, wildings, wild 
 asses, and transgress.” This inn is 
 frequented by sportsmen in the winter, 
 and affords somewhat rude accom- 
 modation. On a small farm in its 
 vicinity, in the occupation of his fa- 
 ther, was born the astronomer Adams, 
 so justly celebrated for the discovery 
 of the planet Neptune. It is in the 
 parish of Laneast. 
 
 [From the Jamaica Inn the tourist 
 may conveniently visit the hills of 
 Brown Willy and Rough tor ; the 
 romantic valleys of Hanter-Gantick 
 and Hannon; and Dozmare Pool, 
 among the wild hills to the S. 
 
 Brown Willy — a corruption of Bron, 
 abreast; Wella, a beacon (Cornish: 
 Bron, though literally a breast, is 
 used to signify a hill so shaped ; 
 Bronwelli, a look-out hill)— and 
 Boughtor, pronounced Bowtor , of the 
 respective heights of 1380 and 
 1296 ft., are situated about 3 m. 
 N. of the inn. An excursion to 
 their summits offers a rich treat to 
 those fond of such adventures; but 
 a pocket compass should be taken, 
 as these elevated moors are fre- 
 quently enveloped in mists, which 
 give no warning of their approach, 
 and limit the view to a circle of a 
 few yards. Deep bogs — of which 
 there is a formidable specimen N.W. 
 of Roughtor — may be entered under 
 such circumstances, from which the 
 traveller will find a difficulty in ex- 
 tricating himself. Brown Willy, sepa 
 rated from the Jamaica Inn by a 
 hill called Tober or Two Barrows 
 (alt. 1122 ft.), is a ridge lying a 
 few points E. of N. and W. of S., 
 parallel with Roughtor, and marked 
 by 4 distinct hummocks. Both hills 
 rise from a granite district, and are 
 themselves of granite ; but the granite 
 of Brown Willy is almost surrounded 
 by green stone — a tolerable proof that 
 the volcanic rock (greenstone) must 
 have been erupted before the ele- 
 vation of the granite masses* In 
 a comparison of the 2 mountains, 
 Brown Willy may be designated as 
 the more beautiful, Roughtor the 
 more imposing, the latter being lite- 
 rally covered by a mass of shattered 
 rocks. Immediately under Brown 
 Willy, to the S. W., a bottom is 
 occupied by a large stream-work, in 
 which the traveller may witness the 
 operation of streaming for tin. The 
 crest of the ridge is roughened by 
 masses of granite, which, fashioned in 
 squarer forms than those on Roughtor, 
 give an appearance of less irregu- 
 larity to the outline. The summit, 
 crowned by a pile of stones, commands 
 a view extending into Somerset and 
 to remote parts of Devon and Corn- 
 
 (a) The 2 Cornish mountains, 
 
310 
 
 Route 21 .' — Launceston to Truro. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 wall. The superb height of Roughtor 
 rises close at hand, and on the solitary- 
 waste which stretches northwards 
 from Roughtor and Brown Willy, in 
 the direction of Davidstow Moor, are 
 the works of the Roughtor Copper Mine , 
 an adventurous but unprofitable con- 
 cern belonging to the shareholders 
 of that great Devonshire mine, the 
 Devon Consols. Under the E. side of 
 the hill lies a small pool of water, 
 called Fovcey Well , as the source of 
 the river Fowey, and S.W. the rocky 
 eminence of Garrah , 1060 ft. above 
 the level of the sea. (On the slopes 
 of this hill are numerous hut-circles, 
 with small oblong enclosures marked 
 out by rude stone fences. The hill 
 is ribbed by these fences, the plots 
 within which are too small for pas- 
 turage, and may have been used as 
 folds (compare the settlements on 
 Kestor, Rte. 8). Near the. modern 
 cottage on Garrah is a modern bee- 
 hive, formed of unhewn blocks of 
 granite, rising to about 5 ft. The 
 roof is formed by overlapping stones, 
 and is covered externally by turves. 
 There is a wooden door square- 
 headed. The whole is very curious 
 as an illustration of what may pos- 
 sibly be a long-continued architec- 
 tural tradition. ^ m. N.E. from 
 Garrah, near the foot of Roughtor, is 
 a circle of stones 43 yds. in diam. 
 There are about 50 stones, none very 
 large. 1 m. S.W. from Garrah is the 
 quadrangular enclosure, 50 yds. by 
 20, known as Arthur s Hall . It con- 
 sists of an earthen embankment, 
 inside which is a row of large un- 
 hewn stones set on end. Many of 
 the stones lie prostrate, apparently 
 pressed inward by the embankment, 
 which is now 9 or 10 ft. above the 
 inner level. Two posts on one side 
 mark the entrance. In the centre is 
 a pool of water. The purpose of 
 this curious enclosure is quite un- 
 certain, — but it may perhaps have 
 been sepulchral. There is a local 
 tradition that it was in early times a 
 Christian church. An ancient road 
 
 or trackway passes close by Arthur’s 
 Hall, and by the foot of Roughtor, 
 and by “ Trevillian’s Gate,” to 
 Warbstow, where are large entrench- 
 ments (see Rte. 22).) The granite 
 of the Bodmin range is well cha- 
 racterised by that of Brown Willy, 
 which is composed of white cry- 
 stalline felspar, grey quartz, and 
 two kinds of mica, one of which 
 is white and transparent, the other 
 opaque, and of a dark garnet colour. 
 The black mineral schorl is occa- 
 sionally disseminated through the 
 mass in minute crystalline grains. 
 A valley, now partly cultivated, se- 
 parates this mountain from Roughtor , 
 which should certainly be ascended 
 for a nearer view of the enormous 
 earns of granite, which, covering it 
 on all sides, give a ruggedness to its 
 outline even when viewed at a dis- 
 tance of 30 m. They consist of some 
 of the largest blocks in Cornwall, 
 lodged one upon the other in very cu- 
 rious and critical positions, and at the 
 summit weathered into spheroidal 
 masses, which strikingly illustrate the 
 decomposition of granite, and exhibit 
 on their upper surfaces a network of 
 those irregular cavities called rock ba- 
 sins . On the most easterly of the 
 two peaks of the hill (which is 
 in the parish of Simonward) are 
 traces of a chapel dedicated to St. 
 Michael (licensed 1371). No hill in 
 Devon or Cornwall can be matched 
 for magnificence with Roughtor, 
 which ought surely to be pre- 
 served from the quarryman, as 
 the grand feature of the county. The 
 red lichen Lecanora perella is found 
 in the caverns and crevices, and 
 lected for the purposes of a dye. Ri 
 the barren valley, under the N.W. 
 side of the hill, are a number of those 
 circular enclosures, or hut-circles , so 
 common on Dartmoor ; and near the 
 bank of the stream a monument of 
 unhewn granite, which strikes the 
 attention from the loneliness of the 
 surrounding hills. It bears an in- 
 scription and marks the scene of a 
 
Cornwall, 
 
 Route 2 1 . — Banter - Gantich 
 
 311 
 
 sanguinary murder. Not far from 
 this monument, and W. of Roughtor, 
 a china-clay mine is in operation. 
 Upon a low eminence, immediately 
 W. of Roughtor, lies a logan stone , 
 about 2 ft. in thickness, 10 in length, 
 and 6 in breadth. The upper sur- 
 face is flat, and the ponderous mass 
 is moved by a push, or by the weight 
 of a person stepping upon it. So 
 perfect is the balance, that the 
 oscillation continues for some se- 
 conds after the stone has been set 
 in motion. Accident appears to have 
 had the greatest share in produc- 
 ing these effects, as the block has 
 been evidently curtailed at its eastern 
 extremity by the operation of pooling. 
 
 (b) The traveller may hence extend 
 his excursion to Hanter-Gantick (i. e. 
 “Render,” ancient; “ Gcintic ," open- 
 ing), sometimes designated the Cor- 
 nish Valley of Rocks, — or to Hannon 
 Valley , from the sides of which rise 
 2 isolated crags, known as the Devil's 
 Jump , The former is situated some 
 5 m. down the Lank (Du — or 
 Black Lank), a stream which flows 
 S.W. and between Rowtor and Brown 
 Willy ; the latter about 2| m. down 
 a tributary of the Camel, which, run- 
 ning in a similar direction, is to be 
 found on the N.W. side of Roughtor. 
 Between “Devil’s Jump” and 
 Roughtor there is a very good stone 
 circle on Stannon Down. 
 
 Hanter-Gantick is also 1 m. S. of 
 the church-town of St. Breward, or 
 Simon Ward, as it is commonly 
 called. It is a deep romantic val- 
 ley, desolated by rocks of granite, 
 which, shaped by the elements into 
 cubes, cover the slopes and lie heap- 
 ed together by hundreds on the ad- 
 jacent heights. It was a scene befitting 
 the genius of a Salvator, and one of 
 the most extraordinary of its kind 
 in the country. The declivity of 
 the higher part of the valley is 
 abrupt, and here the stream thun- 
 ders through the obstruction in a 
 series of cascades. A descent to its 
 
 banks even now will repay the labour, 
 although a ladder is almost required 
 in the passage from stone to stone, and 
 a thick growth of brake offers addi- 
 tional impediments. The finest coup- 
 d'oeil is obtained from the hill-side 
 which fronts this portion of the val- 
 ley. Hence the entire scene is dis- 
 played, and its rugged effect is well 
 contrasted by the azure tints of 
 Brown Willy, which rises in the dis- 
 tance. A few years ago Hanter- 
 Gantick was as solitary as it is wild, 
 but it is now the site of granite- 
 works, which have greatly extended 
 and are gradually spoiling the scene. 
 Indeed it may be said that its finest 
 features have already disappeared. 
 Between it and Wenford Bridge 
 is the hamlet of Lank (“ Lank ” 
 a young place ; the adjoining river 
 is called “ de lank,” not Du or 
 Black Lank as is often asserted) ; 
 and on Lank Down the Lank Bocks, 
 2 earns of granite, which are called 
 by the country people the King's and 
 Queen' s Houses. 
 
 Roughtor (not Brown Willy) is 
 in the parish of St. Breward . or 
 “ Simonward.” Of St. Breward, or 
 Bruered, to whom the ch- is ded. 
 nothing is known. The parish is not 
 mentioned in Domesday, but was 
 included in the great manor of Ha- 
 matathv, one of the lords of which 
 (probably a Peverel!) founded the 
 church. This, before the end of the 
 13th cent, was transferred to the Bp. 
 of Exeter. It is Norm, (walls of 
 nave and chancel, low massive piers 
 N. side, and font, which is of very 
 peculiar form), Dec. (transept), and 
 Perp. (tower, S. porch, and S. aisle). 
 The whole was restored (St. Aubyn, 
 architect) in 1864. The E. window 
 of the chancel is modern. On a 
 partition wall in the enclosure of the 
 new national schools is set up the 
 head of a very fine cross of the usual 
 Cornish type, but of late and rich 
 work. The sculptured figure of a 
 deacon is built into the wall over the 
 doorway. The name Simonward is 
 
Sect. II. 
 
 312 
 
 Route 21 . — Launceston to Truro. 
 
 perhaps a relic of the Saxon Sigmund 
 (see Devon , Rtes. 1 and. 18), whose 
 name is found in similar wild dis- 
 tricts. Simonward may have been 
 the “mark” or boundary of some 
 early Saxon settlement. . It has also 
 been suggested that it is a corrup- 
 tion of “ St. Bruered.” 
 
 (c) Hannon (i. e. “ Half-way ”) 
 Valley is situated about 1 m. W. 
 of the church of Advent (S. Tane 
 locally, see Rte. 22), and through 
 it the streams rising N. ofRoughtor 
 discharge their waters into the Camel. 
 
 It has been invested with fea- 
 tures of particular interest by a 
 thunder-storm, which, falling with 
 unusual violence in the summer of 
 1847, principally upon the high 
 land W. of Roughtor, occasioned a 
 flood in the Camel, which swept away 
 many of the bridges, and destroyed a 
 large amount of property on its banks. 
 The bed of this valley was ripped 
 open by the accumulated waters, and 
 the stream now flows between white 
 banks of granite and quartz, varied 
 by the intrusion of rocks of a dif- 
 ferent character. From the sides 
 of the lower part of the valley rise 
 the crags which are known as the 
 
 Devil's Jump. That on the 1. 
 bank, when seen from -beneath, re- 
 sembles a tower about 50 ft. in 
 height. In the bed of the stream, 
 immediately below this rock, lies a 
 block of a white crystalline stone, 
 about 24 ft. in length, by 8 in 
 breadth, which, abutting upon a deep 
 and clear pool, would seem to have 
 been expressly placed there to serve 
 the purposes of the bather. At the 
 extremity of this valley a solitary 
 tree will be seen standing amid 
 ruins occasioned by the flood.- It is 
 connected with an alarming adven- 
 ture which befel a farmer residing 
 in the neighbourhood. On the da} 
 of the storm he was making his way 
 to Camelford, and about to cross the 
 stream by a foot-bridge, when a sud- 
 
 den increase in the volume of the 
 torrent rendered the passage imprac- 
 ticable, and at the same time, by oc- 
 casioning an overflow of some low 
 ground in his rear, cut off his re- 
 treat. Two trees presented the only 
 means of escape. lie hastily climbed 
 upon one, but, thinking this the 
 weaker of the two — and it was after- 
 wards carried away— he removed into 
 the other, which fortunately resisted 
 the fury of the inundation. 
 
 Nothing in Cornwall exceeds in 
 beauty the walk (though rather a 
 rough one) between the Devil’s J ump 
 and Wenford Bridge. It is a great 
 treat for a botanist, a fisherman, or 
 an artist, who will meet with as- 
 phodels, bog pimpernels, sundew, 
 sphagnums, ferns of many sorts, 
 with trout and peal , and some very 
 pretty scenery. 
 
 From Wenford Bridge there is a 
 rly. passing by Bodmin to Wade- 
 bridge ; but passengers are only con- 
 veyed between the two last-named 
 places. 
 
 ( d ) 1J m. S. of the Jamaica Inn lies 
 Dozmare Pool (pronounced Dosmery)— 
 i.e. “ Dos 9 ” a drop ; Mor and Mari. 
 the sea; from the old tradition that it! 
 was tidal— 890 ft. above the sea, a 
 melancholy sheet of water, about 1 m 
 in circumf., and from 4 to 5 ft. ih 
 depth. A lofty hill, called Brown o 
 Bron Gilly — Bron Gilla , a seclude < 
 hill or breast — alt. 1100 ft., is th 
 mark by which the traveller ca 
 direct his coui% On the N. side cj 
 Bron Gilly are the remains of a 
 ancient village, probably of tinneij | 
 or streamers , as they are local! 
 called. Below this the pool is situate , 
 on a table-land vvhich borders the de< 
 vale of the Fowey. The travell 
 will pass in a bottom on his rt. hand 
 stream-work called the Poor Man s L 
 deavour , in which may be seen an : 
 teresting section displaying the folic, 
 ing series of deposits. Disintegrail 
 granite, 1 ft. ; black bog, the low 
 part filled with hazel -branches, 6 ; 
 
Cornwall. Route 21 .~ — Dozmare Pool. — Giant Tregeagle. 313 
 
 disintegrated granite, 2 ft. ; bog of a 
 lighter colour than that above, and 
 containing decayed fragments of 
 wood, 4 ft. ; and below this again 
 another bed of granitic soil, which is 
 streamed. The pool is the theme of 
 many a marvellous tale, in which 
 the peasants most implicitly be- 
 lieve. It is said to be unfathomable, 
 and the resort of evil spirits. Begirt 
 by dreary hills, it presents an aspect 
 of utter gloom and desolation ; and 
 is said to have supplied some features 
 for the “ middle meer” in the Lau- 
 reate’s * Morte d’ Arthur,’ into which 
 Sir Bedivere at last flung Excalibur, 
 having twice before concealed the 
 “ great brand ” 
 
 “ There in the many-lmotted waterflags 
 That whistled stiff and dry about the marge.” 
 
 The country people represent the pool 
 as haunted by an unearthly visitant, a 
 grim giant of the name of Tregeagle, 
 who, it is said, may be heard howling 
 here when wintry storms sweep the 
 moors. He is condemned to the melan- 
 choly task of emptying the pool with a 
 limpet-shell, and is continually howl- 
 ing in despair at the hopelessness of 
 his labour. Occasionally, too, it is 
 said this miserable monster is hunted 
 by the devil round and about the 
 tarn, when he flies to the Roche 
 Rocks, some 15 m. distant, and, by 
 thrusting his head in at the chapel 
 window, finds a respite from his tor- 
 ments. (Other versions of the le- 
 gend place Tregeagle on the coast 
 near Padstow, where he is condemned 
 to make trusses of sand and ropes of 
 sand to bind them ; — or at the mouth 
 of the estuary at Helston, across 
 which he was condemned to carry 
 sacks of sand until the beach should 
 be clean to the rocks. One of his 
 sacks fell, and made the bar of sand 
 which still destroys the harbour of 
 Helston (see Rte. 28) ; — or at the 
 Land’s End, where he has to sweep 
 the sands from Porthcurnow Cove, 
 rond the headland, into Nanjisal 
 f Cove. At all these places he is heard 
 [Dev. § Corn.'] 
 
 wailing, and in great storms howling, 
 over his endless work. “ What some 
 people take to be the ‘ calling of the 
 northern cleves ’ (cliffs) is the roaring 
 of Tregeagle because there is a storm 
 coming from the north to scatter his 
 sand.”) Such is the legend of Giant 
 Tregeagle , of whom some have told 
 that he was a wicked seigneur, once 
 residing on the site of this dismal 
 lake, by which his mansion was of 
 a sudden engulfed, while his park 
 was at the same time transformed 
 into the barren waste which is now 
 known as the Bodmin Moors. 
 
 “ In Cornwall’s famed land, by the Pool and 
 the Moor, 
 
 Tregeagle the wicked did dwell ; 
 
 He once was a shepherd neglected and poor, 
 
 But, growing ambitious, and looking for 
 more, 
 
 Sad fate this poor shepherd befell.” 
 
 The story of Tregeagle, however, 
 with his endless labour, is found 
 among all races and in all countries. 
 (In Devonshire see the legends of 
 Lady Howard, Tavistock, Rte. 14, 
 and of the Hound’s Pool in Dean 
 Combe, Rte. 12). Here in Cornwall 
 it has been connected with a real 
 person, the dishonest steward of Lord 
 Robartes at Lanhydrock (where a 
 room in the house is still called Treg- 
 eagle’s), who maltreated the tenants 
 under his charge, and amassed money 
 sufficient to purchase the estate of 
 Trevorder , in St. Breock, where he 
 distinguished himself as a harsh and 
 arbitrary magistrate. Hence the evil 
 reports which one hears of him. 
 (Another Tregeagle legend asserts 
 that, after the steward’s death, dur- 
 ing a trial brought about by some of 
 his evil deeds, his ghost appeared in 
 open court, and made full confession, 
 thereby restoring a large property 
 to those whose papers he had de- 
 stroyed. He could not however be 
 removed from the court-house ; and 
 it was only after a company of “ par- 
 sons” had exorcised him that the 
 spirit was “ bound ” — first to an “ up- 
 pingstock” at the church-town of 
 
 p 
 
314 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 21 . — Launceston to Truro . 
 
 St. Breock, — then to the old oven at 
 Trevorder, — and, at last, to Dozmare 
 Pool. His appearance in full day, 
 and the respite he gets from his 
 “ hunters’’ at Roche Chapel, resemble 
 a piece of Dartmoor folk-lore, which 
 asserts that the ghost of some wicked 
 man, hunted over the moors by the 
 “wish-hounds” (see Dartmoor , Rte. 
 13), rushed, pursued by the un- 
 earthly pack, into a church, in time 
 of service, and into the midst of the 
 assembled people. The hunted spirit 
 obtained rest, but could only be re- 
 moved by aid of the parson’s conjuring 
 cap. The traveller may glean amuse- 
 ment at the Jamaica Inn, by broaching 
 the subject among the moor- men. One 
 will then narrate how he was startled 
 by the noise of a coach and the crack- 
 ing of whips, when cutting turf near 
 the pool after dark, and declare that 
 he distinctly heard the coach plunge 
 under water. Another will tell how 
 he has seen upon the solitary shore a. 
 strange light, “ like fire in a furze- 
 bush.” And all will most emphatic- 
 ally declare that there is “ certainly 
 somebody there, let people say what 
 they wool !” Until very recently there 
 was no visible outlet to this mysterious 
 tarn, since the water imperceptibly 
 oozed through a bog on its western side. 
 Hence another story of a whirlpool 
 and subterranean channel communi- 
 cating with the subjacent valley. A 
 trench cut through this morass has 
 now partially drained the lake, and 
 gives the water a free passage to 
 more inclined ground, where it soon 
 joins a branch of the Fowey rising 
 near the high road, \ m. W. of the 
 Jamaica Inn. Another tributary to 
 this river has its source under Hawk's 
 Tor (alt. 900 ft.), I m. W. of the 
 Four-hole Cross. 
 
 From Dozmare Pool the pedes- 
 trian can cross the moor direct to St. 
 Neot , about 5 m. (Rte. 23) ; or by a 
 circuitous route include Treveddoe , 
 in the parish of Warleggan, a most 
 ancient tin stream-work still in ac- 
 tivity, and having, in addition to 
 
 the excavations of the streamers, 
 shafts 60 fath. deep, which are said 
 to have been sunk by the “ old 
 men ” (Treveddoe has also a curious 
 old manor-house, now a farm ; the 
 church of Warleggan is Perp., of 
 little interest. The tower was split 
 by lightning from top to bottom in 
 1818); or he can travel to Liskeard 
 by a road from the Jamaica Inn, 
 9 m. ; or, by a longer route on foot 
 over the moor, visit on his way 
 Kilmarth Tor , the Cheesewring , the 
 Hurlers, the Trevethy Stone , the Well 
 of St. Cleer , and the interesting me- 
 morial known as the Half Stone (all 
 described in Rte. 23) ; and in the 
 latter route, as the tors of Kilmarth 
 and the Cheesewring are plainly seen 
 from the vicinity of Dozmare Pool, 
 the stranger will have no difficulty in 
 directing his course.] 
 
 Proceeding from the Jamaica Inn 
 towards Bodmin : — 
 
 lj m. Here, leaning towards the 
 road, is the Four-hole Cross , a lonely 
 impressive monument, bearing every 
 mark of extreme antiquity, and 
 situated in a wild and elevated part 
 of the moor. The top is mutilated, 
 and of the 4 holes which once stamped 
 the figure of the cross, 2 only ar(s 
 now remaining. The pillar was evi 
 dently once ornamented with scroll- 
 work, which, with the exception of j 
 few lines^has been so greatly effaces 
 that it cwonly be made out by cerj 
 tain lights. At the base is an orna 
 ment resembling the head of a pas 
 toral staff (?). The cross is of a 
 ordinary Cornish type — a shaft wit 
 a rounded head — which in this if 
 stance was pierced, so as to form 
 sort of St. Andrew’s cross. TI 
 scalloped outline of the round he;| 
 renders it probable that the whole 
 not earlier than the 12th or 13 j 
 centy. There is another “four-hol 
 cross ” between Camelford and B< 
 castle (Rte. 22). 
 
 3j m. Temple , lies a little S. of ? 
 
315 
 
 Cornwall. Route 21. — PevereWs Cross- — Bodmin * 
 
 present main road. (Take the dis- 
 used grass-grown road to the ]., a 
 short way before coming to the first 
 bridge after leaving Four-hole Cross : 
 it rejoins the other road after passing 
 by Temple.) This is a miserable ham- 
 let on a manor which belonged to the 
 Knights Templars. They had a 
 ch. here, which long since fell into 
 decay, but still remains as a ruin. 
 It is of late Norm, period. The nave, 
 chancel, N. transept, and S. porch, 
 may be distinguished ; and the lower 
 portion of the tower, with eastern 
 arch, remains tolerably perfect, over- 
 shadowed by an ash-tree growing 
 within the ruins. The bowl of the 
 font lies on the ground in the midst 
 of the ch. The ruins are near the 
 road, and are most easily found by 
 turning down a green lane on the 1., 
 just after passing the first farm- 
 house. Adjoining the village are the 
 rugged rocks of Temple Tor. The 
 parish of Temple is the centre round 
 which 12 parishes, collectively known 
 as “the Moors,” are ranged. 
 
 m. rt. PeverelVs Cross (notice- 
 able), close to the roadside; 1. St. 
 Bellarmine’s Tor , and adjoining is 
 another small tor called “ Colvan- 
 nie,” near the hamlet of Pound Scaw- 
 ens” (i.e. the pound by the elder- 
 trees), on the Bodmin and Launceston 
 turnpike road ; and at a distance of 
 about 2 m. Cardinham Bury , an en- 
 trenchment of a circular form, the 
 “bury” of Caer dinas{?), or Cardin- 
 ham, possibly giving its name to the 
 parish, and also formerly to the re- 
 sident family. This, however, is un- 
 certain ; and the place may well have 
 been named from the Norman house 
 of Dinan, a branch of which seems 
 to have possessed it soon after the 
 Conquest. The Dinhams (one of 
 whom became Lord Dinham of Car- 
 dinham in 1485) had a castle here, of 
 which there are no remains. 
 
 [1 m. rt. a road branches^ Bits - 
 land (so named from the manor — an- 
 ciently Bliston or Blaston), 2 in., 
 
 where is a Church of some interest. 
 It is ded. to S. Protus (locally S. 
 Pratt), and was at first a cruciform 
 Norm, building. Of this the walls 
 of nave and chancel remain. The 
 font is Perp., but the Norm, bowl is 
 preserved. The rest of the ch., in- 
 cluding the tower opening from the 
 N. transept, is Perp. On the S. side 
 of the nave is the Lavethan Chapel, 
 built 1638, for the Reynolds family. 
 The outline of the ch. is curious and 
 unusual. The whole has been re- 
 stored. There is a Brass for John 
 Balsam, rector, 1410, in chasuble. 
 During repairs in the rectory 2 
 ancient silver crucifixes were found. 
 The parish was known as “ Blisland 
 juxta Montem,” from the neighbour- 
 hood of Roughtor. The head of a 
 cross (a cross within a circle) is 
 placed near the holy well of S. Pratt. 
 It was once above it. 
 
 On Pendrift common, near the 
 village, is the Jubilee Bock , so called 
 from certain shields of arms and 
 figures designed on it in incised lines 
 by a Lieut. Rogers in 1809 — the year 
 of George III.’s jubilee. There are 
 besides, sundry verses, in which 
 “Great George” is duly honoured. 
 
 There are some curious stone 
 enclosures and circles at Carwen , in 
 the parish of Blisland (on a rising 
 ground a short distance E. of the 
 farm-house), and others on Kerowe 
 Down, 1 m. N. of Carwen. On a 
 moor near Carbilly are the Trippet 
 Stones, a circle 108 ft. in diam. — 9 
 stones in place, 4 on the ground. At 
 Hawkstor , 1 m. E. of the Trippet 
 Stones, is another circle, 152 ft. 
 diam. — 5 stones standing, 8 fallen; 
 one, 12 ft. in length, is prostrate in 
 the middle. This circle seems to 
 have been surrounded by a trench.] 
 
 2 m. Council Barrow, rt. of the road. 
 
 2 m. 1. an old cross in a field near 
 the turnpike. 
 
 1 m. Bodmin ( Inns ; Oliver’s Royal 
 Hotel ; Gatty’s Town Arms), situated 
 nearly in the centre of the county, 
 P 2 
 
316 
 
 Route 21 . — Launceston to Truro* 
 
 about 12 m. from the Bristol and 
 English Channels. Here are held the 
 sessions and assizes. 
 
 (For Bodmin and its neighbour- 
 hood see Rte. 23. The Bodmin 
 Road Stat., on the Cornwall Rly., 
 is at Glynn Bridge, 3* m. from 
 the town. An omnibus meets every 
 train.) 
 
 Proceeding again on our route- 
 
 21 m. 1. Lanivet . The Perp. Church 
 was restored (St. Aubyn, architect) 
 in 1864, when some curious mural 
 paintings were brought to light, as 
 also a piscina or stoup of Dec. work. 
 The ch. possesses a remarkable 14th- 
 eenty. stoup (?), made of cuir-bouilli. 
 The churchyard contains 2 ancient 
 stone crosses, one 10, the other about 
 11 ft. high. To the L, J m. distant, 
 are the remains of what is known 
 as St. Bennefs Monastery , a small 
 religious foundation, of which the 
 history is very uncertain. (It seems 
 to have been a house of Benedictine 
 nuns, attached to some foreign mo- 
 nastery — but this can hardly have 
 been Monte Cassino or Clairvaux, 
 both of which have been named in 
 connection with St. Bennet’s.) The 
 domestic portion of the building ( 1 5th 
 centy.) — it had been the residence 
 of Henry Courtenay, an officer of 
 Essex’s army in the West, in 1644 — 
 with its shafted windows and ivied 
 tower, was very interesting until 
 mutilated and cockneyfied in 1859. 
 The mine- works have also contri- 
 buted to spoil the scene. 
 
 A road here branches S. to St. 
 Austell , 8 m. (Rte. 23). 
 
 Beyond Lanivet the traveller enters 
 a barren country, which, rising to the 
 Tregoss Moors (celebrated until lately 
 for the ponies bred on them), extends 
 many miles. 
 
 3 m. a railway for the conveyance 
 of ore, &c., passes from the high- 
 road here to St. Blazey. 
 
 3J A road on the 1. leads to the 
 village of Roche (1 m.), which is 
 distant about 2 m. from the bleak hill 
 
 Sect. 11. 
 
 of Hensbarrow ( Hen-barrow , i. e. old 
 
 tumulus) (alt. 1034 ft.). Roche Church 
 is modern, of the meeting-house type, 
 but contains an old font of the Norm, 
 character, but doubtful date, so com- 
 mon in Cornwall ; it is ornamented 
 with two purses (?) interlaced. In 
 the churchyard is a rude cross. The 
 
 Roche Rocks, J m. S. of the ch., and 
 680 ft. above the sea, consist of several 
 great masses piled together in rude 
 confusion to a height of 100 ft. ; and in 
 the heart of the group are the remains 
 of a little Dec. chapel dedicated to 
 St. Michael. The adjoining cell is 
 said to have been once tenanted by a 
 hermit, and more recently by a solitary 
 leper. The spot is lonely, and well 
 suited to the wild tales attached to it, 
 such as that of Giant Tregeagle, who 
 is said to fly over the moors, on stormy 
 nights, to seek a shelter here from his 
 unearthly pursuer. Close at hand 
 rises a spring which is said to ebb 
 and flow, and at some little distance 
 is the “ wishing- well” of St. Roche, 
 to which village maidens still repair 
 on Holy Thursday, to throw in pins 
 and pebbles, and predict coming 
 events by the sparkling of the bub- 
 bles. The Roche Rocks consist of 
 quartz and schorl, constituting schorl 
 rock, which is in a friable state. 
 
 li m. The traveller is now passing 
 over the Tregoss Moors , the fabled 
 hunting-ground of King Arthur, and 
 may see to the rt. the granite emi- 
 nences of Belovely or Belouda Beacon 
 (alt. 765 ft.), and Castle an Dinas (alt. 
 729 ft.), the latter crowned with an 
 encampment, and interesting to the 
 geologist for a variety of altered 
 slate (see Rte. 22). “Castle an 
 Dinas,” the castle of the “ fortress ” 
 — Dinas signifies a strong earthwork. 
 The name combines the Norman and 
 British terms for a stronghold ; but 
 the stone “ castle ” and the earthen 
 “ dinas ” were of very different cha- 
 racter. (It is not, as is sometimes 
 said, Castle of the Danes): it is a 
 very common name in Wales. 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 22.— Launceston to Truro . 
 
 317 
 
 3j m. The Indian Queens , a lonely 
 inn in a wild unsheltered situation on 
 the moor. 
 
 f m. Fr addon . — To the 1. of this 
 hamlet, L m., lies Qalliquoiter Rock , con- 
 taining variable mixtures of schorl 
 with granite. The summit of the 
 hill is 690 ft. above the level of the 
 sea. Beyond Blue Anchor the new 
 road to Truro branches off on the 1. 
 It runs by the church-town of La- 
 dock , and through one of the prettiest 
 valleys in the county. The parish of 
 Ladock is well known for its stream- 
 works. They have produced a quan- 
 tity of tin, and some of the largest 
 pieces of gold which have been found 
 in Cornwall. 
 
 1 m. The church-town of St. En- 
 oder (Pop. 1151). The small ch. has 
 an early Dec. nave. St. Enoder is 
 said to have died in Cornwall early 
 in the 5th centy. 1. the village of 
 Summer court, noted for its annual 
 cattle and sheep fair, on Sept. 25, in 
 which 3000 head of stock commonly 
 change hands. 
 
 v 3 m. Mitchell , or St. Michael , before 
 the Reform Act a borough town re- 
 turning 2 M.P.’s. is now a mere vil- 
 lage, with so small a pop. that it is 
 not separately returned in the census. 
 — A cross road leads to Newlyn, 2 
 m. : and 1-J m. N. of Newlyn is 
 the manor-house of Trerice, the old 
 seat of the Arundels, now belonging 
 to Sir T. Dyke Acland, Bt., by 
 whom it has been restored. It has 
 carvings in panel representing many 
 of the old houses in the county, and 
 is well worth seeing. 
 
 6-J m. Truro ( Inns : Tedder’s Royal 
 Hotel ; Lenderyou’s Red Lion Hotel). 
 (See Rte. 23.) 
 
 ROUTE 22. 
 
 LAUNCESTON TO TRURO, BY CAMEL- 
 FORD, WADEBRIDGE, AND ST\ CO- 
 LUMB. (THE NORTH COAST.— BOS- 
 CASTLE ; TINTAGEL ; DELABOLE 
 QUARRIES ; PADSTOW ; THE VALE 
 OF MAW GAN ; NEWQUAY.) 
 
 (The Central Cornwall rly., from 
 Launceston by Camelford to Bodmin, 
 will run somewhat S. of the road 
 followed in the present route.) 
 Launceston (Rte. 21). 
 
 A wild and dreary road, skirting 
 Laneast and Wilsey Downs , hills tra- 
 versed by the junction-line of the 
 carbonaceous and grauwacke forma- 
 tions, leads to 
 
 12 m. Davidstow (pronounced Dew- 
 stow), a poor village, in one of the 
 bleakest districts of Cornwall, but 
 with an interesting Church. This 
 is Dec. and Perp. and was ded. after 
 a rebuilding in 1294. There are 
 some good seat-ends, fragments of 
 carving and stained glass, and the 
 octagonal font is curious. The ste- 
 rile expanse of Davidstow Moor 
 stretches S. to Roughtor and Brown 
 Willy, the 2 Cornish mountains . 
 About 3 m. N., on Wilsey Down, 
 is Warbstow Barrow, an ancient for- 
 tification — an irregular double val- 
 lum— of considerable size. A long 
 mound in the centre of it is called 
 by the country people King Arthur's 
 Grave . (The churches of Tremayne 
 and Trenegloss , N.E. of Davidstow, 
 contain rudely carved Norm, tym- 
 pana.) 
 
 3| m. Camelford (Inns: King’s Arms ; 
 Darlington Arms) (Pop. 1620) situ- 
 
318 
 
 Route 22. — Launceston to Truro. 
 
 ated in an elevated and hilly part of 
 the county, on the skirt of the moors, 
 and on the Camel , here but a rustic 
 stream, which, rising in the parish of 
 Davidstow, unites with the Alan at 
 the Devil's Jump, and thence flows 
 by Wadebridge and Padstow to the 
 sea. The figure of a camel crowns 
 the town-hall, as a weathercock, 
 placed there by the corporation, in 
 allusion to the name of the river. 
 The Camel abounds in peal and trout. 
 
 The parish Church , called Lanteglos 
 — i. e. the “ Church enclosure,” — is 
 1^ m. W. It is ded. to St. Julitta, 
 and contains E. E. (chancel), Dec., 
 and Perp. (nave) I portions. The 
 Perp. E. windows of chancel and 
 S. aisle are good. The heraldic 
 bosses on the roofs of both should be 
 noticed. The arms of Coryton, Tre- 
 lawny, and Trecarrel are conspicuous 
 on that of the S. aisle. The fine 
 octangular font is E. E. (A Norm, 
 font is preserved at the Vicarage.) 
 The W. tower is E. E. The ch. 
 has been restored. The old stones 
 with epitaphs which were on the 
 floor have either been removed to 
 the exterior or covered by modern 
 tiles. A broken stone now standing 
 against the external wall records the 
 burial, in 1560, of Diggory Wallis of 
 Fentonwoon — most probably an an- 
 cestor of Captain Wallis (see below). 
 The Norm, font is placed near the 
 fish-pond at the Vicarage. In the 
 centre of the pond is the head of an 
 old cross ; and in an adjoining field 
 another old cross has been placed. 
 
 [The Church of Advent , 2 m. E. (ded. 
 to St. Adwen, locally St. Tane ), con- 
 tains E. E. portions, and is interesting. 
 The N. transept and tower at the 
 W. end of the chancel (both E. E.) 
 deserve notice. In the latter the 
 wall of the newel projects into the 
 N. aisle, and is pierced for a lancet 
 light. There are remains of gilding 
 and colour on the roof (Perp.) of the 
 nave. The S. transept has been re- 
 moved, and the wall permanently 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 blocked up. Altogether the condi- 
 tion of the church is to be regretted.] 
 
 Camelford was made a free borough 
 by Richard king of the Romans, and 
 incorporated temp. Chas. II. It had 
 for years returned a member to Pari., 
 when it was disfranchised by the 
 Reform Bill. In 1791 it was repre- 
 sented by Macpherson , the ‘ translator * 
 of Ossian. Captain Wallis , who dis- 
 covered Otaheite, was born at Fen - 
 tomvoon (Fenton-woon, i. e. spring or 
 well on the downs), now a farm- 
 house, i m. S., near the river-side. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Camelford, 
 according to tradition, has been the 
 scene of 2 sanguinary battles — one be- 
 tween King Arthur and his rebellious 
 nephew Mordred (date 542 ?), in 
 which, it is said, Mordred was slain, 
 and King Arthur wounded mortally ; 
 the other between the Britons and the 
 Saxons under Egbert (date 823). 
 
 Several excursions of high interest 
 can here be made. Camelford is the 
 nearest town to Roughtor and Brovm 
 Willy , 5 and 7 m. S.E. (Rte. 21) ; 
 the former of which has a magni- 
 ficent appearance, as it rises in a 
 craggy ridge over intervening hills. 
 In his route to this mountain the 
 traveller will cross a cart-track on 
 the moor, bordered by upright stones, 
 which are ranged along it at re- 
 gular distances. It will give him 
 an idea of the dreary character of 
 this district. It extends from a 
 place called Watergate to Five- 
 lanes, near Launceston, and the 
 stones were erected by the minister, 
 who had to traverse the waste on 
 Sundays. They are intended to serve 
 as guides in misty weather ; a long 
 post occurs at intervals of ^ m., 
 and is marked on the Watergate side 
 with the letter W„ and on that towards 
 Fivelanes with the letter F. The 
 visitor to Camelford can also make 
 an excursion to the wild valley of 
 Hanter Gantick y by the Devil's Jump 
 (both described in Rte. 21). His 
 
319 
 
 Cornwall. Route 22. — Camelford — Boscastle . 
 
 shortest route is by the ch. of Advent 
 fsee ante). In the third field be- 
 yond this ch., by the side of the path, 
 stands a time-worn granite cross , 
 about 9 ft. in height. In this excur- 
 sion he will notice the effects of a 
 flood which occurred on the Camel 
 in the summer of 1847. It was occa- 
 sioned by a singularly heavy rain, 
 which, accompanied by thunder and 
 lightning, fell without intermission 
 from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. It swept away 
 a number of bridges and destroyed 
 much valuable property. Fortunately 
 an engine happened to be at Wenford 
 Bridge, near St. Mabyn, the ter- 
 minus of the Wadebridge railway, 
 when the head of water was seen 
 rushing down the valley ; and the 
 engineer, starting off, gave the alarm 
 to the farmers living along the banks, 
 so that many had time to drive away 
 their cattle, and remove their most 
 valuable effects. 
 
 To the N. of Camelford lies one of 
 the most interesting districts in Corn- 
 wall, since it comprehends Boscastle , 
 the ruins of King Arthur’s Castle of 
 Tintagel , the magnificent line of coast 
 between these points, and the cele- 
 brated slate-quarries of Delabole. In 
 a visit to the sheep-market of Camel- 
 ford the stranger will be reminded of 
 his vicinity to slate-quarries, since 
 each partition is formed of a single 
 slab of that material. 
 
 The traveller can proceed to Bos- 
 castle or Tintagel by Slaughter 
 Bridge (1 m. N., and now cor- 
 rupted into Sloven’s Bridge ), which 
 lies on the road from Delabole to 
 Launceston, and is said to have been 
 named as the spot where King Arthur 
 received his death-wound. (The pre- 
 sent local tradition however seems to 
 assert that on Slaughter Bridge 
 Arthur killed his nephew Modred,— 
 but that before this, Modred had 
 wounded the king with a poisoned 
 sword, nearly where Worthyvale 
 House stands.) Worthyvale , at a short 
 distance from the bridge, was a 
 
 manor-house of the ancient lords of 
 Boscastle. Separated only by a fence 
 and gate from the cart-road which 
 leads from Slaughter Bridge to 
 Worthyvale, is the lower part of a 
 tumulus, the upper portion of which 
 has been removed for ‘ ‘ top-dressing ” 
 by the farmer. A few yards below 
 the tumulus, and at the bottom of 
 the field, a path down a precipitous 
 descent of about 20 ft. leads to the 
 river-side. Here, below the rocky 
 cliff, is a thick, rough slab of coarse 
 granite, about 9 ft. long, 2 broad, 
 and 1 thick, which is called “ King 
 Arthur’s Tomb.” It is said that this 
 stone was removed by a former Lord 
 Falmouth from a position further 
 down the stream and nearer the 
 bridge, to this more secure site. On 
 the stone in rude letters is the in- 
 scription, in Latin, “ Hie jacet filius 
 Me\_gar\i.” 
 
 4J m. Boscastle {Inn: Wellington, 
 clean and comfortable. It has been 
 enlarged). This little town (Pop. 
 366) is situated upon a steep hill, 
 sloping to a valley, which at a short 
 distance is joined by another* each 
 coursed by a rapid stream, when 
 they are together deflected towards 
 the harbour and inlet of Boscastle. 
 The “port” is in a kind of ravine, 
 and is somewhat like Balaclava on 
 a small scale. The scenery in the 
 neighbourhood is most romantic, and 
 the country broken by deep furzy 
 bottoms. Of the grandeur of the coast 
 it is impossible to speak too highly. 
 Boscastle has been so called from a 
 castle of the Norman family of De 
 Bottreaux, by which it was once dig- 
 nified, and of which a green mound 
 is the only surviving mark. In the 
 reign of Henry VI. the heiress of 
 the family was married to Robert 
 Lord Hungerford; and as the pos- 
 sessions of that nobleman were situ- 
 ated at a distance of 100 miles in an 
 easterly direction, it is probable that 
 at this period the castle fell into de- 
 cay. f rom the Hungerfords it de- 
 
320 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 scended to the Earls of Huntingdon, 
 who retained it till the reign of Eli- 
 zabeth, and whose heir in the female 
 line, the late Marquis of Hastings, 
 was Baron Bottreaux. (The title is 
 now borne by his sister, the Countess 
 of Loudoun.) The herald will re- 
 member the “3 toads” and the “grif- 
 fin segreant,” the arms of the Lords 
 Bottreaux, in the ample marshalling 
 of the house of Hastings. The manor 
 some years since came into the 
 possession of the late T. R. Avery, 
 Esq., who greatly improved the place 
 and developed its trade, and it still 
 belongs to his family. 
 
 The parish Church of Bottreaux , or 
 Forrabury, with its “ silent tower,” 
 from which it is said the merry peal 
 has never sounded, is situated above 
 Boscastle, and close to the soaring 
 headland of Winapark Point. It 
 is dedicated to St. Sym'forian, 
 who, according to the tradition, 
 was buried in it. (St. Symphorian, 
 however — martyred a.d. 180 — was 
 really interred at Autun, of which 
 place he was a native.) An ancient 
 granite cross , resting upon a pe- 
 destal of limestone, stands outside 
 the churchyard. Within , the ch. dis- 
 plays E. E. portions in the chancel 
 and very early (Sax. ?) arches in the 
 transepts. The circular font is of 
 Norm, character. There were some 
 very good bench-ends ; but the in- 
 terior of the church has been entirely 
 restored. The following legend is 
 connected with the church. Upon 
 its erection, the inhabitants, long 
 envious of the musical bells of 
 Tintagel, determined to have a peal 
 of their own. Lord de Bottreaux, 
 then residing at his castle, aided the 
 project, and a celebrated founder in 
 London was directed to cast the bells. 
 They were despatched by sea. The 
 vessel freighted with them arrived 
 safely off Boscastle, when the bells of 
 Tintagel were swinging with sullen 
 roar. The sound boomed over the 
 waves to the ear of the pilot, who, 
 
 elated by the welcome of his native 
 village, piously thanked God that 
 he should be ashore that evening. 
 “ Thank the ship and the canvas,” 
 exclaimed the captain; “thank God 
 ashore.” “ Nay,” said the pilot, 
 “ we should thank God at sea as well 
 as on land.” “ Not so,” quoth the 
 captain; “ thank yourself and a fair 
 wind.” The pilot rejoined ; the cap- 
 tain, after the manner of captains, 
 grew choleric, swore, and blasphemed. 
 The ship meanwhile had closed the 
 land, and the dark headland of Wil- 
 lapark and the precipices of the Black 
 Pit were seen crowded by the inha- 
 bitants, eagerly expecting the pre- 
 cious freight. Suddenly a heavy 
 bank of clouds, having gathered 
 in the west, darkened the entire 
 sky ; a furious wind arose, and 
 lashed the sea into mountainous bil- 
 lows. The vessel became unmanage- 
 able, and, driving towards the coast, 
 capsized, and foundered, when all on 
 board perished except the pilot, who 
 alone, supported by a part of the 
 wreck, was washed ashore, unhurt. 
 The storm continued with extreme 
 violence. It is said that during 
 the pauses of the gale the clang 
 of the bells was distinctly heard, 
 tolling from the ocean depths, and 
 to this day the inhabitants recognise 
 these solemn sounds during the 
 storms which so frequently assail 
 this part of the coast. The story has 
 been admirably versified by the Rev. 
 R. Hawker, of Morwenstow (‘Cornish 
 Ballads/ 1869) — 
 
 “ Still when the storm of Bottreau’s waves 
 Is wakening in his weedy caves, 
 
 Those bells, that sullen surges hide, 
 
 Peal their deep notes beneath the tide : 
 
 * Come to thy God in time ! ’ 
 
 Thus saith the ocean chime ; 
 
 Storm, billow, whirlwind past, 
 
 4 Come to thy God at last/” 
 
 (The traveller may be recommended 
 to make himself also acquainted with 
 Mr. Hawker’s ‘ Footprints of Former 
 Men in Old Cornwall’ (1870), where 
 he will find an edifying narrative of 
 an “ adventure” at Boscastle.) 
 
321 
 
 Cornwall. Route 22. — Boscastle— Willapark Point . 
 
 The harbour of Boscastle is ^ m. 
 from the upper town. It has been ex- 
 cavated by the waves, and is truly ro- 
 mantic — a little winding inlet, not a 
 stone’s throw in breadth, and opening 
 under the headland of Willapark . (The 
 name occurs elsewhere on this coast 
 — near Combe Martin for example 
 — - and signifies “ look-out field 
 Weill, a look-out ; pare , a field.) The 
 sea is here in constant agitation, and 
 the cove itself affords no security to 
 shipping; but a small space at its 
 extremity, of size sufficient to admit 
 two or three vessels at a time, is en- 
 closed by a diminutive pier, and this, 
 properly speaking, is the harbour of 
 Boscastle. Everything about this 
 place denotes the boisterous seas to 
 which it is exposed ; boats are made 
 fast by cables which would ordinarily 
 hold a ship, and, stretched along the 
 pier, lie enormous hawsers, thicker 
 than a man’s thigh, which are em- 
 ployed in ckecking the impetus of 
 vessels when they enter the harbour. 
 Immediately beyond the pier is a 
 seat, from which the stranger can 
 view at his leisure an interesting 
 phenomenon. A fissure in the oppo- 
 site rocks, passing underground about 
 50 ft., communicates with the open 
 sea, and from this, at intervals, a 
 column of water is violently projected 
 across the harbour, accompanied by 
 a loud report. But the effect is pro - 
 duced only within an hour of low- 
 water, and when the sea is agitated. 
 From the same spot may be observed 
 another, but more distant phenome- 
 non of a similar kind. A hole pierces 
 an island-rock called Mea.chard, lying 
 outside the harbour, and, as the waves 
 roll by, the spray is occasionally blown 
 from it like a jet of steam. During 
 the summer a number of seals are 
 taken by the Boscastle fishermen. 
 The coast is everywhere undermined 
 by deep caverns, which, when the sea 
 is smooth, the fishermen enter in their 
 boats and explore with torches. The 
 seals, which are fond of lying on ledges 
 in these gloomy retreats, are con- 
 
 founded by the light, and fall an 
 easy prey. They are killed for their 
 oil and skins, which are considered 
 of sufficient value to repay the risk 
 of the adventure. 
 
 Immediately W. of the harbour 
 rises Willapark Point , a magnificent 
 headland, crowned with a low tower, 
 erected as a prospect-house. On its 
 W. side the cliffs recede and form a 
 gloomy chasm, appropriately called 
 the Black Pit , since the rock is here 
 so singularly dark that it may be 
 easily mistaken for coal. This head- 
 land, when viewed from the point 
 to the W. of it, forms one of the 
 finest cliff-scenes on the coast ; its 
 huge and sombre flanks of slate 
 being contrasted by the light-tinted 
 slope of Eesparvell Down , a barren 
 ridge which fills in the background, 
 and is in keeping ^ith the desolate 
 cliffs and boisterous ocean. Standing 
 upon this point W. of Willapark, the 
 stranger is upon the boundary of two 
 great formations, — the carbonaceous 
 and grauwacke groups, which re- 
 spectively prevail in Devonshire and 
 Cornwall. The boundary-line passes 
 from Boscastle across the county in 
 the direction of Launceston, and is 
 tolerably well marked as far as S. 
 Petherwin. Northwards, to the ex- 
 tremity of the county, the coast in 
 every part exhibits the singular con- 
 tortions of the carboniferous strata. 
 From this point the traveller will 
 observe immediately W. of him a 
 slate-quarry, called Grower , worked 
 in the face of the grauwacke cliff. 
 The guide-chains , by which the stone 
 is raised, are actually fastened to the 
 bottom of the sea, and on as wild 
 a shore as can well be imagined. 
 From the character of the rocks in 
 this neighbourhood the soil is per- 
 fectly black. 
 
 A delightful excursion can be made 
 from Boscastle to Crackington Cove, 
 a romantic spot 4^ m. E. The road 
 passes over Eesparvell Down (alt. 850 
 
 P 3 
 
322 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro . 
 
 ft.), which is terminated towards the 
 sea by High Cliff (alt. 735 ft.). This 
 down commands a fine view over the 
 Bristol Channel, and along the coast, 
 embracing headland after headland, 
 in magnificent perspective. A quarry 
 for slate is situated on the cliff f m. 
 W. of the cove. Cracking ton Cove is a 
 recess on the E. side of a small bay, 
 which is bounded on the W. by the 
 picturesque promontory of Carnbeak 
 (alt. 333 ft.), and on the E. by Pen - 
 kinna Head , which rises above the 
 sea-level about 400 ft. The latter 
 is an imposing mass of dark slate, 
 varied by white lines of the rock the 
 quarrymen call harder , which show, 
 even at a distance, the contortions of 
 the strata. The general direction of 
 the beds may be observed at low 
 water, when parallel ridges, among 
 many which are contorted, stretch 
 along the beach towards the W.N.W. 
 At the head of the bay the cliffs 
 slope to the shore in imposing curves, 
 forming inclined planes from 100 to 
 150 ft. in length ; and the retreat of 
 the tide leaves dry under Penkinna 
 Head a rugged bed of rocks, among 
 which are several beautiful stones 
 variously coloured green, white, and 
 brown, and marked by a network of 
 white or yellow quartz veins, which 
 the wear of the sea has brought into 
 prominent relief. This bay appears 
 intended by nature for a harbour, and 
 a company who are working a slate- 
 quarry about a mile up the valley 
 have contemplated throwing out a 
 pier from Carnbeak. The slate of the 
 cove was some years ago quarried on 
 the face of the cliff; but the stone 
 proving of an inferior quality, the 
 works were abandoned. 
 
 Minster Church , a small antique 
 building 1 m. E. of Boscastle, deserves 
 notice from its situation in a striking 
 and picturesque nook among the hills. 
 The chancel has E. E. portions, and 
 the tower — of which only one stage 
 (not above the roof) exists — has a 
 very early western arch. Part of 
 the roof and walls fell in 1868. 
 
 They fell on a Sunday, and service 
 had been held in the church in the 
 morning. The building was rebuilt 
 or “restored*’ in 1871. In it is a 
 tablet with epitaphs for William Cot- 
 ton, Canon of Exeter (son of the Bp. 
 of Exeter of the same name), and his 
 wife, who both died in 1656. The 
 English verses partly run — 
 
 “ Shee first departing, Hee a few weekes tryed 
 To live without her, could not, and so dyed. 
 Both in theire wedlocks great Sabatick rest 
 To be, where there’s no wedlock, ever blest; 
 And having here a jubily begun 
 Theyr taken hence that it may nere be done.” 
 
 About 1J m. from the ch. is a fall 
 of water (about 150 ft.) in a recess 
 on the coast called Pentorgan Cove. 
 (The best way to this is along the 
 cliffs from the high flagstaff above 
 Boscastle Harbour.) At Lesnewth 
 (i. e. New Court), lj m. S.W. of 
 Minster, is a ch. with Norm, and E.E. 
 portions, and a good Perp. tower. 
 
 The distance from Boscastle to 
 Tintagel is about 3 m., the inter- 
 mediate country, though hilly, bear- 
 ing some resemblance to a natural 
 terrace, bounded on the seaboard by 
 precipices, and on the land-side by a 
 range of elevated hills, which seem 
 at one period to have marked the 
 border of Britons and English (see 
 post). Proceeding from Boscastle 
 towards Tintagel (you should walk 
 by the coast) — you will reach the 
 farm-house of Trethevey shortly be- 
 fore Longbridge (2 m. from Boscastle). 
 At Trethevey the key of the door 
 leading to St. Nighton’s Keive may 
 be obtained, and a guide if wished. 
 At Longbridge the road crosses a 
 deep bottom , through which a brawl- 
 ing stream flows to the sea, and a 
 mile up the valley falls nearly 40 
 ft. in a cascade called St. Nighton’s 
 Keive . St. Nighton is probably the 
 same as St. Nectan, to whom Hart- 
 land ch. is dedicated {Devon, Rte. 
 18). Owing to a thick growth of 
 brake it is a difficult task to walk 
 through the valley to this waterfall . 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 22 . — Trevena . 
 
 323 
 
 The better plan is to turn off the 
 road at the farmhouse of Trethevey. 
 From this place, by pursuing a lane 
 for about a mile, and then crossing 
 3 or 4 fields, the cascade may be 
 reached without trouble. The valley 
 is abruptly terminated by a barrier of 
 rock, through a chasm of which the 
 stream is hurried to a fall, and tum- 
 bles about 30 ft. into a circular 
 basin, or keive. From this it passes 
 through a natural arch, and, gushing 
 under and over a large slab of stone, 
 which is curiously fixed in the open- 
 ing, is precipitated again 10 ft. into a 
 dell dark with foliage. Altogether 
 the scene is romantic and interesting, 
 and will well repay a scramble even 
 through the briers of the valley. A 
 few yards below the fall the water is 
 confined by a dam, and here there is 
 a large rectangular mass of schist, 
 about 20 ft. long by 6 ft. broad, of 
 so uniform a shape that it might be 
 imagined to be a monumental y stone 
 raised over the remains of some 
 solitary giant who had haunted the 
 spot. The genii loci were, however, 
 of less ponderous bone, for a story is 
 told of two mysterious old ladies, who 
 here lived in such secret retirement, 
 that they actually died with their 
 names unknown by the gossips of the 
 neighbourhood. Many a tale now 
 circles at their expense, and, among 
 others, that they lived upon snails, 
 which are particularly numerous in 
 this part of the country. One on foot 
 should walk down the valley — which 
 is known as “the Valley of Bocks” — * 
 from the bridge to the sea. This is the 
 prettiest part of it ; it is roughened 
 by schistose rocks, and contains Tre- 
 villet watermills, which are proper 
 subjects for the pencil, and have been 
 painted by Creswick under the title 
 of “The Valley Mill.” You should 
 proceed by the cliffs to Tintagel. 
 On the W. side of the bay into which 
 the valley opens is a dark little re- 
 cess, called Bossiney Hole , shut in by 
 lofty precipices. During the summer 
 and autumn this spot, at low water, is 
 
 a scene of singular bustle, as a num- 
 ber of donkeys are then employed in 
 scrambling up and down the rocks, 
 carrying bags of sand, which are sold 
 to the farmer as a top-dressing for the 
 land. A headland called Willapark , 
 resembling the point at Boscastle, 
 juts out to the W. of it, and opposite 
 to the village of Bossiney . As seen 
 from the W. it presents a sheer preci- 
 pice of a very striking and beautiful 
 appearance, a perfect wall, tinted with 
 yellow lichens. Bossiney is a mere 
 hamlet of poor cottages, but it has 
 been represented in Pari, by Sir Fran- 
 cis Drake, Sir Francis Cottington, and 
 other distinguished persons. In 1695 
 its member was John Tregeagle, son 
 of “ Giant Tregeagle,” and sheriff of 
 the county. The village is remark- 
 able for being built round a large 
 barrow, on which it was the custom to 
 read the writ for the election of M.P.s 
 before the borough was disfranchised. 
 
 1 Trevena {Inn: Wharncliffe Arms 
 — enlarged, and very comfortable. 
 The distance from Tintagel to Bude 
 is 21 ^m., to Bodmin 20 m.) This 
 village is in the immediate vicinity 
 (about J hr. distance) of the head- 
 land of Tintagel (locally pronounced 
 Downdadgel; the name is said to 
 signify the “ impregnable fortress,”), 
 which, celebrated as the most ro- 
 mantic scene in Cornwall, derives ad- 
 ditional interest from being crowned 
 with a ruinous castle of high anti- 
 quity, the reputed birthplace and 
 residence ; of King Arthur. (The 
 tourist should be told that the ruins 
 of the castle on the headland are pro- 
 tected by a wall and a locked door , 
 the key of which is kept at a small 
 house passed on the way from the 
 village. This house is below the 
 road, by the side of the stream, and 
 has been a mill.) The promontory 
 strikingly illustrates an action of the 
 sea which tends to separate headlands 
 from the mainland and convert them 
 into islands ; and consists of a penin- 
 sula, united to the coast by a neck of 
 
324 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 broken rocks, pierced by a long dark 
 cavern, or rather tunnel, which may 
 be passed through at low water. It 
 is about 80 yards in length. The 
 tide enters first from the farther 
 side. A wild hollow, commencing 
 at Trevena, opens to the sea in the 
 rocky recess under Tintagel, and 
 the stream which flows through it 
 falls over the precipice in a cascade. 
 So abrupt is the cliff at this spot, that 
 vessels were formerly brought along- 
 side for the purpose of shipping slate. 
 This hazardous practice is now dis- 
 continued, but a wooden stage, pro- 
 jecting over the cliff, and other 
 machinery employed in loading the 
 vessels, still remain, and are a happy 
 addition to the picturesque. The ruins 
 of the castle are situatedpartly on the 
 mainland and partly on the peninsula, 
 being separated by the deep chasm 
 or gap occasioned by the partial de- 
 struction of the isthmus. Consider- 
 ing the exposure of the locality, and 
 the number of years which must have 
 elapsed since the erection of the 
 building, it is surprising that any 
 portion should exist. The ruins, 
 however, occupy an area of some 
 extent, and consist of dark disinte- 
 grated walls, which are pierced by 
 small square apertures and arched 
 entrances. The different parts of 
 the castle are said to have been once 
 connected by a drawbridge, and this 
 is not improbable, as the neck of 
 land is continually diminishing under 
 the repeated assaults of the sea, so 
 that the chasm, if indeed it ex- 
 isted, must have been inconsiderable 
 when the castle was built. In addi- 
 tion to the ruins which stand on the 
 heights, the remains of an ancient 
 landing-place, called Porth Hern (the 
 Iron Gate), may be seen at the base 
 of the promontory. These consist 
 of a massive bastion and gateway, 
 which, like the outer walls of the 
 castle, have been sometimes con- 
 sidered to date from the time of the 
 Damnonian kingdom — before the 
 English had penetrated so far west- 
 
 ward. The walls are built of the 
 slate of the country, with coarse 
 mortar full of small grit-stones. 
 “ The lower part of the chapel, 
 with a W. porch and a solid altar, 
 may be traced, with a burial- 
 ground close to it. Another part is 
 erroneously called the church, but 
 was clearly a domestic building with 
 a round staircase and a garderobe ; 
 the pit of another garderobe turret 
 also remains, with part of one of the 
 closets over it. This work appears 
 to be of the 1 3th centy. There is a 
 pointed arch to the doorway, and 
 the walls are at present not more 
 that 2 ft. 6 in. thick. . . . The work 
 on the mainland and on the island 
 appears to be all of the same charac- 
 ter, and had doubtless been connected 
 by a drawbridge. The whole appears 
 to be of the beginning of the 13th 
 centy. with some later alterations.” — 
 J. H. P. There is, however, very 
 little from which to form an accu- 
 rate judgment as to the date of these 
 remains, since there are no mould- 
 ings or cut stone fragments. The 
 walls are falling away year by year 
 with the cliff. The island will be 
 visited by every intelligent traveller, 
 the ascent now presenting little diffi- 
 culty, as a winding path has been cut 
 in the face of the cliff, although it 
 must be admitted that the remark of 
 Norden still applies — “ he must have 
 eyes that will scale Tintagel.” This 
 path at first descends a little rt., and 
 then, bending at the angle, ascends 
 by steps to the top of the precipice. 
 (Here the traveller will encounter a 
 high wall, in which is a locked door, 
 the key of which he should have pro- 
 cured on his way (see ante). 
 
 The early history of Tintagel 
 Castle is to be gleaned only from 
 tradition. There is no authentic 
 record of its origin ; but the tradi- 
 tion which has connected Tintagel 
 with Arthur, the “ flower of kings,” 
 is of unknown antiquity, and — al- 
 though the existing remains are no 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 325 
 
 Route 22 . ~ — Tint ag el — King Arthur . 
 
 doubt of far later date — a principal 
 stronghold of the old “ princes ” of 
 “ West Wales ” — by which name 
 Cornwall and part of Devonshire were 
 called to a late period — may very 
 probably have existed on this site. 
 In the mediseval romances belonging 
 to the cycle of Arthur the name of 
 Tintagel frequently occurs — most fre- 
 quently in the romances of Tristrem, 
 where Tintagel is made the castle of 
 king Mark of Cornwall. “ Tintagel,” 
 it is said in one of them — 
 
 “ estoit un chastel 
 Qui moult par art e fort e bel, 
 
 Ne cremoist asalt ne engin qui vaille 
 Sur la mer en Comouaille. ,, 
 
 The walls, continues the description, 
 were painted with various colours, 
 and had been laid under a powerful 
 spell, by means of which the castle 
 became invisible twice in the year 
 (see the Romans de Tristan, ed. 
 Michel). Soon after the Conquest 
 Tintagel became a residence of the 
 Earls of Cornwall, and in 1245 Earl 
 Richard, the son of King John, re- 
 ceived in it secretly his nephew 
 David Prince of Wales— whom he 
 had supported “ more than was 
 right” during the expedition in 
 that year, of Henry III. against the 
 Welsh. Subsequently it became the 
 property of the crown, and was oc- 
 casionally used as a prison- — John of 
 Northampton, ex - Lord Mayor of 
 London, having been sent here in 
 1385, according to Carew, “ for his 
 unruly mayoralty condemned hither 
 as a perpetual penitentiary ” — until 
 the reign of Elizabeth, when Bur- 
 leigh, considering the cost of keep- 
 ing it in repair too onerous, allowed 
 it to fall into ruins. It now belongs 
 to the Duchy. Such in a few words 
 is all that we know of Tintagel, but 
 the stranger, as he contemplates its 
 “ worm-eaten hold of ragged stone,” 
 will recall the romantic stories of 
 King Arthur and his knights, re- 
 erect the castle, and send forth from 
 its gates the well-known band : — 
 
 “ Sir Lancelot, Sir Stephen hold, '' 
 
 They rode with them that daye, 
 
 And foremost of the companye 
 There rode the stewarde Kaye. 
 
 So did Sir Banier and Sir Bore, 
 
 And eke Sir Garratte Keene ; 
 
 Sir Tristram too, that gentle knight, 
 
 To the forest freshe of greene.” 
 
 Marriage of Sir Gawaine. 
 
 Fqjt in truth, the grand solitude 
 which now characterise the place 
 is well calculated to encourage a 
 truant fancy. The ruinous walls 
 are remarkable for their dark and 
 sombre hue, unrelieved by the usual 
 patchwork of lichens ; and the stones, 
 worn to sharp edges by the weather, 
 being laid on the bare rock, the 
 direction of their laminse coincid- 
 ing with those of the- cliffs, can be 
 scarcely distinguished from the 
 ground at a little distance. The 
 slate of the promontory well merits 
 notice. Where removed from the 
 more destructive influence of the 
 waves, it has been singularly wea- 
 thered by wind and rain into a mul- 
 titude of little basins and ridges, 
 presenting an appearance similar to 
 that of a body of snow or ice which 
 has been for some time exposed to 
 the sun’s rays. Some of these slate 
 “ rock basins” are whimsically called 
 King Arthur’s Cups and Saucers . On 
 the W. side a grotesque mass of 
 slate rises in a jagged pillar, about 
 40 ft. high, and appears as if it had 
 been acted upon by a corrosive acid. 
 A spring of fresh water rises on the 
 summit of the promontory, and a 
 few sheep pasture on the turr, and 
 occasionally fall into the sea. The 
 flavour of the island mutton is con- 
 sidered particularly fine. The bo- 
 tanist will observe that the cliffs are 
 hung with samphire , and may pro- 
 cure specimens of Trifolium stellatum 
 from their rocky crevices. The 
 character of this iron-bound coast 
 is well seen at Tintagel. The sea 
 front, mostly composed of slate, pre- 
 sents a series of inaccessible head- 
 lands and gloomy recesses, illustrat- 
 ing the influence of the “ Atlantic 
 
326 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 drift,” which is especially directed 
 into the Bristol Channel. The sea 
 is here ever heaving in long undu- 
 lations, and, the water being deep 
 to the land, the base of the cliffs is 
 worn by the roll of the waves into 
 a concave surface, which presents 
 an effectual barrier to escape in ship- 
 wreck. 
 
 This is not the place to discuss 
 the question of the historic exist- 
 ence of Arthur — whom, however, 
 Mr. Rees and Dr. Guest, the two 
 best authorities on the subject, con- 
 sider to have been a true prince of 
 Cornwall, who long withstood the 
 westward advance of the English. 
 Of his origin as the great hero of 
 romance there are many versions, 
 but on this spot we shall of course 
 prefer that given by the Laureate — 
 
 “ And that night the bard 
 Sang Arthur’s glorious wars, and sang the king 
 As well nigh more than man, and railed at 
 those 
 
 Who called him the false son of Gorlois : 
 
 For there was no man knew from whence he 
 came; 
 
 But after tempest, when the long wave broke 
 All down the thundering shores of Bude and 
 Boss, 
 
 There came a day as still as heaven, and then 
 They found a naked child upon the sands 
 Of wild Dundagil by the Cornish sea ; 
 
 And that was Arthur; and they fostered him 
 Till he by miracle was approven king : 
 
 And that his grave should be a mystery 
 From all men, like his birth . . . .” 
 
 The local pronunciation of the castle 
 — “ Dundagil ” — is here adopted. 
 The scene of Arthur's disappearance 
 in the fatal battle of Camlan, fought 
 against the traitor Modred — 
 
 “ That great battle in the west 
 Where I must strike against my sister’s son, 
 Leagued with the lords of the White Horse, 
 and knights 
 
 Once mine, and strike him dead, and meet 
 myself 
 
 Death, or I know not what mysterious 
 doom ” — 
 
 is fixed by local tradition at Camel- 
 ford (see ante), and by certain of 
 the romancers, followed by Tenny- 
 son (‘ Morte d’Arthur ’), in Lyon- 
 nesse - — the mysterious submerged 
 
 district between the Land’s End and 
 the Scilly Isles. The grave of the 
 “clear-faced king” remains a mys- 
 tery. A stone called “King Ar- 
 thur’s tomb ” is pointed out at 
 Slaughter Bridge, near Camelford. 
 
 A well-known mediaeval story as- 
 serted that his tomb was discovered 
 and opened at Glastonbury — where 
 the historic Arthur may very possibly 
 have been interred — in the reign 
 of Hen. II., the tomb having been 
 marked by the line — 
 
 “ Hie jacet Arturus, rex quondam rexque 
 fu turns.” 
 
 At Tintagel it is still believed that 
 he haunts the battlements of his 
 castle in the shape either of a Cor- 
 nish chough or a raven, it is not 
 certain which, but neither of these 
 birds is willingly shot by the na- 
 tives. This belief is referred to 
 by Don Quixote — “Have you not 
 read, sir, . . . the famous exploits 
 of King Arthur ? . . of whom there 
 goes an old tradition that this 
 king did not die, but that by magic 
 art he was turned into a raven ; and 
 that in process of time he shall reign 
 again, and recover his kingdom and 
 sceptre ; for which reason it cannot 
 be proved that, from that time to 
 this, any Englishman has killed a 
 raven.” — Bk. ii. ch. 5. “ Guinevere,” 
 the name of Arthur’s faithless queen, 
 is still common in Cornwall under 
 the form of “ Jennifer.” 
 
 Tintagel, in early days, was the 
 gateway into the Celtic peninsula, 
 the only military road passing it on 
 its course along the N. coast of De- 
 von and Cornwall. Hence its an- 
 cient importance, and the battles 
 which occurred in its immediate vi- 
 cinity. The boundary of the Celt and 
 Saxon may perhaps be traced from 
 the Tamar to Tintagel by the names 
 of the villages — Michaelstow, Ja- 
 cobstow, Davidstow, Morwenstow, 
 &c. — but the real history of the gra- 
 dual advance of the English into 
 Cornwall, and of the boundaries of ! 
 
327 
 
 Cornwall. Route 22. — Tintagel — Pengelley. 
 
 the two races at different periods, 
 has still to be accurately traced. 
 
 The Church of Tintagel (dedicated to 
 St. Marcelliana), which stands on an 
 exposed spot above the lofty cliffs W. 
 of the castle, and has been subjected 
 to restoration, will repay a visit. It 
 contains Saxon portions (transept 
 arches ?) ; Norm, (chancel arch and 
 font, remarkable, on 4 spreading 
 legs) ; E. E. (western tower arch) ; 
 and Dec. and Perp. elsewhere. The 
 N. chancel arch, or Lady-chapel, has 
 the original stone altar. The roof of 
 the porch is formed of 4 large slabs. 
 In the nave is a good Brass for Jo- 
 hanna Boon, circ. 1430, and in the S. 
 transept an incised slab with counter- 
 sunk head of the effigy, temp. Edw. I. 
 The ch. once belonged to the Abbey of 
 Fontevrault in Normandy. Edward 
 IV . bestowed it upon the collegiate ch. 
 at Windsor, and at present the dean 
 and chapter of that establishment at- 
 tach the great tithes, and are the 
 patrons of the living. The chief fur- 
 niture of the ch. is decorated with 
 the cross of St. George accordingly. 
 The vicar of Tintagel is constable of 
 the castle. The stranger will notice in 
 the churchyard the green mounds — 
 almost barrows — of some old graves ; 
 and on an altar-tomb, near the door, 
 some curious lines to the memory of 
 a man who was killed by lightning 
 in the last century. In the church- 
 yard also was buried (1868) John 
 Douglas Cooke, for many years prin- 
 cipal editor of the 1 * * 4 Saturday Review. 5 
 He occasionally occupied a cottage 
 (built by himself) at Tintagel, but 
 died in London. 
 
 1 m. S. of Trevena is Trebarwith 
 (pronounced Trebarreth) Strand, the 
 sandy shore of a bay about a mile 
 in width, and deservedly a favourite 
 
 spot with artists ; not only is it intrin- 
 
 sically beautiful as a coast-scene, but it 
 
 offers facilities for the study of the 
 
 sea in its greatest purity, the billows 
 being unsullied by earthy particles 
 
 held in suspension. The rocky cliffs 
 of this part of Cornwall have, in par- 
 ticular, been painted by Creswick, and 
 in many points resemble Italian coast- 
 scenery. It is worthy of notice that 
 the “pietra forte” of Florence— al- 
 though little older than the London 
 clay — has been so modified by subter- 
 ranean heat that it was once con- 
 sidered a very ancient formation, and 
 was classed with the Cornish killas 
 under the name of grauwacke . 
 
 From Tintagel the traveller should 
 return to Camelford by the JDelabole 
 Quarries , which are 4 m. from Tre- 
 vena and 2 m. W. from Camelford. 
 They are celebrated for producing 
 the best slate in the kingdom, and 
 have been worked many years, being 
 mentioned by Carew, who wrote in 
 the reign of Eliz. On the road he 
 will pass another large quarry called 
 Bowethick, or North Delabole, situated 
 in a valley rendered picturesque by 
 protruding rocks, and opening to the 
 sea at the little cove of Port William. 
 2 villages owe their origin to the 
 Delabole quarries, Pengelley and Med - 
 rose ; the best accommodation is to 
 be found at 
 
 4 m. Pengelley, i. e. head of the 
 grove {Inn : the Old Delabole Inn). 
 The quarries present one of the most 
 astonishing and animated scenes im- 
 aginable. The traveller suddenly 
 beholds a vast excavation, the re- 
 sult of the uninterrupted labour of 
 centuries, encompassed by dark blue 
 hills of rubbish, continually on the 
 increase, and slowly encroaching 
 upon the domain of the farmer. 
 The scene is enlivened by a throng 
 of men busily engaged in various 
 noisy employments, while waggons 
 and horses are everywhere in rapid 
 motion, and steam-engines are lift- 
 ing with a harsh sound their pon- 
 derous arms, and raising loaded 
 trucks from the depths of the pit, 
 or masses of slate of several tons’ 
 weight, which are seen slowly as- 
 
328 
 
 Route 22 .— Launceston to Truro . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 cending guide-chains to stages which 
 overhang the quarry. The stranger 
 should obtain the services of one of 
 the “ captains ” — superintendents — 
 who are always willing to act as 
 guides, and to explain the different 
 operations to which the slate is sub- 
 jected. The quarry is about 260 ft. 
 in depth. Upon the edge of the 
 . quarry is the Papote Head , a pro- 
 jecting platform, from which a num- 
 ber of guide-chains are stretched like 
 the shrouds of a ship to the base of 
 the pit. The slate is first loosened 
 by small charges of gunpowder ; it 
 is then torn up by wedges and crow- 
 bars, and placed in trucks, which, 
 being attached to a wheel which tra- 
 verses a guide-chain, are drawn up 
 by the steam-engine some feet above 
 the Papote Head. Movable stages, 
 called hatches or tables , are then run 
 out under the trucks, which, being 
 lowered upon a framework on wheels, 
 are drawn away by horses to the dif- 
 ferent workshops, where the slate is 
 split into various sizes, according to 
 the purpose it is intended to serve. 
 The water is pumped from the 
 quarry by water-wheels into an adit, 
 and the slate is shipped at the little 
 harbours of Port Gavorne and Bos- 
 castle, the former being the principal 
 port in the summer, the latter in the 
 winter, as affording the best shelter 
 to the vessels. About 1 000 men are 
 employed in these works, who raise 
 on an average 120 tons of slate per 
 day, which, manufactured on the 
 spot into roofing slates, cisterns, and 
 other articles, are exported to various 
 parts of the United Kingdom, and to 
 France, Belgium, the West Indies, 
 and America. The roofing slates of 
 Delabole are particularly famous, 
 and are divided into various sizes, 
 called respectively Ladies, Coun- 
 tesses, Duchesses, Queens, Rags, and 
 Imperials. If the stranger should be 
 desirous of comparing the produce 
 from different parts of the quarry, he 
 can ascertain the quality by the sound 
 when the stone is struck, which 
 
 should be clear and sonorous ; by 
 the colour, since the light blue is 
 firm and close, the blackish blue of 
 a loose texture and apt to imbibe 
 water ; and lastly by the feel, a good 
 stone being hard and rough to the 
 touch, and a bad one smooth and oily. 
 The best slate from any quarry is 
 called the bottom-stone, and at Dela- 
 bole is found at and below a depth of 
 24 fath. from the surface. The name 
 Delabole, or Dennabowl (sometimes cor- 
 rupted into Dilly-bolly), is in Corn- 
 wall often associated with patches of 
 barren soil, and there are furze-crofts 
 on many estates which are thus deno- 
 minated. On the eastern edge of the 
 Bodmin Moors we find a Dennabowl 
 in close proximity to Stonyford, a 
 name which sufficiently denotes the 
 character of the district. The coun- 
 try in the vicinity of Pengelley 
 bristles with hedges of slate, and the 
 sides and roofs of out-houses are here 
 frequently formed of single slabs of 
 that material. The neighbourhood is 
 a convenient one for the builder, as 
 the proprietors of the quarries are too 
 happy to have the deads removed, 
 since their accumulation involves the 
 sacrifice of much valuable land. 
 Fine specimens of the “ Cornish dia- 
 mond,” or rock crystal, have been 
 found in these quarries. 
 
 Proceeding from Camelford to- 
 wards Wadebridge — 
 
 3 m. 1. St. Teath . In the Church see 
 a curious pulpit, carved and coloured. 
 It was presented to the parish in 
 1630 by the family of Carminowe, 
 who, in the celebrated Scrope and 
 Grosvenor quarrel, asserted that they 
 had borne the disputed arms (azure, 
 a bend or) from “ the days of King 
 Arthur ” ( Scrope and Grosvenor Poll, 
 by Nicolas). In the E. window 
 of the S. transept is the shield of 
 Hen. VII., with other heraldic bear- 
 ings. There are some good seat-ends, 
 and an effigy in the N. transept (of 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 329 
 
 Route 22 . — St. Kew — Wadebridge . 
 
 the 13th centy. ?). Near St. Teath 
 (pronounced St. Tetli) is a wayside 
 cross, with 3 holes only, standing in 
 the hedge. Of St. Tethe, or St. Etha, 
 nothing is known. (This was the 
 native parish of Anne Jeffries, and 
 the scene of her mysterious adven- 
 tures among the pixies or “ small 
 people,” — a most curious account of 
 which, in a letter from one Moses 
 Pitt to Dr. Fowler, Bp. of Gloucester, 
 will be found in the ‘ Harleian Mis- 
 cellany.’ Anne was born, the daugh- 
 ter of a poor labouring man, in 1626. 
 At 19 years old she went to live in 
 the family of Moses Pitt, and there 
 was taken under the special care of 
 the pixies. She first saw them in an 
 arbour in the garden — six little men, 
 dressed in green, with very bright 
 eyes. They often came to dance 
 with her in the orchard ; took her to 
 see the wonders of pixy-land ; gave 
 her power to cure sundry disorders 
 among the people, and for some time 
 fed her entirely. “ She once,” says 
 Moses Pitt, “ gave me a piece of her 
 bread, which I did eat, and I think 
 it was the most delicious bread that 
 ever I did eat, either before or since.” 
 The famous Justice Tregeagle sent 
 her to Bodmin jail, but nothing 
 could be proved against her, and she 
 was freed, as the pixies had promised 
 her. The whole narrative is very 
 curious from the illustration it af- 
 fords of Cornish pixy-lore before the 
 days of modern scepticism.) 1. about 
 2 m. lies the remote church-town 
 of Michaelstow. The ch. has Dec. 
 portions (nave ; where the piers on 
 the S. side are of granite, with foli- 
 ated capitals of Caen stone), and 
 Perp. (S. aisle and tower). There is 
 a good open roof to the S. aisle, and 
 the N. aisle has a chantry (divided 
 off by screen) at its E. end. The font 
 is Norm. There are some fragments 
 of stained glass. In this parish is 
 St. Syth’s (Osyth’s?) beacon — an 
 earthwork rising to a great height. 
 
 3 pi, rt. St, Kew , T he Church here 
 
 should be seen. It is of the early part 
 of the 15th centy., somewhat resem- 
 bling Bodmin. The tower is fine. The 
 cradle roofs deserve notice. There 
 are incised slabs (17th centy.) in the 
 chancel and N. aisle. Almost every 
 window has remains of stained glass, 
 and in the E. window is a Root of 
 Jessed 15tli cent.), said to have come 
 from Bodmin. The wild boar which 
 figures in one of the windows is said 
 to have been killed in Lemon Woods 
 by a man named Lanow ; the name 
 also of the parish before the dedica- 
 tion of the ch. to St. Kew, of whom 
 nothing is known. On the same side 
 of the road, at a distance of about 
 5 m., is Enclellion. The ch. is of no 
 great interest. In the parish is Port 
 Issyk (issic, i. e. lower port) — cor- 
 rupted into P. Isaac — whence the 
 Delabole slate is exported. 1. St. 
 Tudy. Hengar House , a seat of Sir 
 Henry Onslow, Bart., is enriched by 
 some tapestry and paintings. In the 
 ch. are monuments of the Nicols 
 family, one dated 1597. 
 
 2 m. 1. St. Mabyn, and near it an 
 earthwork called Killbury or Kelly 
 Rounds , circ. with 2 high ramparts 
 and ditches, much destroyed. The 
 church-tower of St. Mabyn (75 ft.) 
 is one of the loftiest in the county: 
 it was much damaged by light- 
 ning in 1865. There are grotesque 
 corbels at the angles of the upper 
 stages, and 4 statues in niches at 
 the top. The tower stands on an 
 eminence. The ch. is for the most 
 part Perp. The E. window is a me- 
 morial for Francis Hext and wife. 
 
 2 m. Wadebridge ( Inns : the Moles- 
 worth Arms ; Commercial Flotel), 
 a town remarkable for its bridge, 
 the longest and one of the oldest 
 in the county, but partly recon- 
 structed a few years since. It is a 
 picturesque structure of 17 arches 
 (one arch at each end is built up), 
 built early in the 15th centy. (the 
 exact date is not certain), and is 
 
330 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 said to have originated in the ex- 
 ertions of a vicar of Egloshayle, 
 named Loveybound, or Lovebond, 
 who, affected by the continual loss 
 of life at the ferry — (the old ford, 
 the wath or wade), — raised, “with 
 great paine and studie ” a fund 
 sufficient to pay the cost of its erec- 
 tion, and at his death bequeathed 
 an annual sum of 20/. to be applied 
 towards its maintenance. A rail- 
 road runs from this town to Bod- 
 min, and a branch extends in the 
 direction of Camelford to Wenford 
 Bridge, near the rocky valley of 
 Hanter-Gantick . (Rte. 21.) The 
 trains (but only on market and fair- 
 days) carry passengers as far as 
 Bodmin, but are ordinarily em- 
 ployed in bringing copper and iron- 
 ore from the Lanescot and other 
 mines, and conveying imports and 
 sea-sand for manure up the country. 
 The valley of the Camel, through 
 which this rly. passes, contains the 
 prettiest scenery in the neighbour- 
 hood. The situation of St. Breock 
 ch. is especially pleasing. The parish 
 Church of Egloshayle ( the ch. by the river ) 
 stands on the rt. bank of the Camel, 
 and may be seen from the bridge. 
 The E. E. walls remain ; the rest is 
 Perp. ; and the tower, which is a fine 
 specimen, was probably, as well as 
 the S. aisle, the work of Lovebond, 
 the vicar who built the bridge. In 
 the moulding of the W. door is a 
 serpent, triumphant on one side, de- 
 pressed on the other. In the chan- 
 cel is an incised slab to the Kestells, 
 1522. The pulpit (late Perp.) is no 
 doubt Lovebond’ s work. His shield 
 or device is the 3 hearts with fillet, 
 on which is the name “ Loveybound.” 
 This is seen on the tower door. 
 St. Breock Church , which has been re- 
 stored, is mostly Perp., except the 
 tower, which is Dec., and the very 
 fine font, also of Dec. form. In the 
 chancel is a Brass for a civilian and 
 2 wives, circ. 1510 (Tredinicks ?). 
 About 5 m. on the road to Bodmin 
 is Pencarrow (Dowager Lady Moles- 
 
 worth : see Rte. 23) ; and 5 m. N. 
 by E., in an elevated, unfrequented 
 part of the country, St. Endellion , 
 with a weather-stained ch., dating 
 from the reign of Hen. VI. (see 
 ante). On an opposite hill are some 
 remains of Boscarroch House , formerly 
 residence of the ancient family of 
 Roscarrock, a ponderous building, 
 castellated and loop-holed, and en- 
 tered through a heavy arch of gra- 
 nite. 
 
 An excursion can be made from 
 Wadebridge by a wild bleak road, or 
 by the river, to 
 
 Padstow (by road 8 m.). {Inns: 
 Commercial Hotel ; Golden Lion. 
 Steamers ply between Padstow and 
 Bristol, calling at Swansea and Ilfra- 
 combe.) (Pop. 2489). This is one 
 of those antiquated unsavoury fishing- 
 towns which are viewed most agree- 
 ably from a distance. It is situated 
 about 1 m. from the sea, near the 
 mouth of the Alan estuary, and its 
 name is generally said to be an abbre- 
 viation of Petrockstowe. But this is 
 uncertain. The “ St. Petrock’s stow” 
 of the Sax. Chron. is Bodmin (see 
 Rte. 23). The old Cornish name of 
 Padstow was Laffenack , and the Eng- 
 lish Aldestowe = the old “ stow ” or 
 place. This became corrupted into 
 Adelstow, and it was asserted that 
 Achelstan had founded it when, 
 after driving the Britons from Exeter, 
 he passed westward into Cornwall. 
 (This however is a claim put forth 
 without reason by many Cornish 
 towns.) The name “ Padstow ” can- 
 not be traced back for many centuries. 
 There is a tradition that St. Patrick 
 landed here, and the name may com- 
 memorate him; or as the manor, 
 port, harbour, and fishery belonged 
 to the monastery at Bodmin, it may 
 gradually have acquired the name of 
 St. Petrock. Padstow appears to have 
 been a seaport of some consequence in 
 early days, and is mentioned as hav- 
 ing contributed two war-ships fully 
 equipped for the siege of Calais 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 22 . — Padstow Harbour . 
 
 331 
 
 'Hdw. III.). Its prosperity, accord- 
 ing to a tradition, declined in the 
 ^eign of Hen. VIII., in consequence 
 )f an accumulation of sand at the 
 nouth of the harbour. 
 
 The Church , which is late Dec., 
 nas been restored throughout by Miss 
 Prideaux Brune, of Place. The 
 dender pillars, with banded capitals 
 ind lofty arches, deserve notice. 
 Fhe windows have all been filled 
 vith stained glass, and the timber 
 •oofs are new. The font, with an 
 trcade and figures of the 12 Apostles, 
 s ancient, with the exception of the 
 ! side shafts. It is of “ Caraclew ” 
 itone (i. e. Car-a-clew — grey rock.) 
 Most of the ornamental work, door- 
 ambs, mullions, window-dressings, 
 md fonts, of this district are made 
 >f Caraclew, a good stone, but of 
 t cold slaty grey colour.) This 
 bnt was once regarded by the in- 
 labitants as endued with a marvel- 
 ous property, which was held in 
 ligh esteem by the mauvais sujets of 
 he town. This was nothing less than 
 he virtue of preserving those who 
 lad been baptized in it from the 
 gallows. Early in the present cen- 
 ury, however, much to their discom- 
 iture, a man named Elliot, who had 
 >een duly christened in it, was con- 
 victed of robbing the mail and hanged, 
 n the ch. is a monument (1627) to 
 fir Nicholas Prideaux. 
 
 Place House (Charles Prideaux 
 Irune, Esq.), the ancient seat of the 
 amily of Prideaux, stands, encircled 
 >y trees, upon the high ground above 
 5 adstow. It was erected in 1600 
 ipon the site of a monastery said to 
 lave been founded by St. Petroc, 
 ,nd destroyed by the Danes in 981. 
 t contains numerous pictures, in- 
 luding several youthful productions 
 >f the Cornish artist Opie , who, be- 
 ore leaving the county, made an ex- 
 •edition to Padstow, where he painted 
 11 the Prideauxes, their servants, 
 nd even the family cats. Among the 
 Ider portraits are those of Humphrey 
 
 Prideaux , the learned Dean of Nor- 
 wich, who was born here, and Har- 
 riet Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland. 
 There is a large painting of Jupiter 
 and Europa, some good landscapes, 
 cattle-pieces, and a Madonna and 
 Child. In the neighbouring parish 
 of St. Merryn is Harlyn, the seat of 
 the Peter family ; and in that of St. 
 Issey some slight traces of Halwyn , 
 where, according to the tradition, a 
 Champernowne and his lady lived in 
 separate establishments on opposite 
 sides of the estuary, but contentedly 
 singing 
 
 “ That verdant hill and silver stream 
 Divide my love and me.” 
 
 The Church of Little P ether ick, 3 m. on 
 
 the^ Wadebridge road, has been ad- 
 mirably rebuilt, on the plans of Mr. 
 W. "White, by the late vicar, Sir 
 Hugh Molesworth, Bart. It con- 
 tains a valuable copy of Fox’s 4 Book 
 of Martyrs,’ 3 vols. folio, published 
 1684. 
 
 Padstow Harbour , though much 
 obstructed by sand, with an entrance 
 narrow and dangerous, and a bar 
 called the Dunbar ( Dune bar) within 
 its mouth, is the only place of shelter 
 on the N. coast of Cornwall ; and 
 during gales from the N.W., when a 
 refuge on this iron-bound shore is 
 particularly required, its entrance is 
 attended with considerable risk, as at 
 these times there is an eddy of wind 
 within the point by which vessels are 
 likely to be taken aback and driven 
 upon the sands. A capstan has, how- 
 ever, been placed on Stepper Point 
 (227 ft. above the sea), and when 
 a vessel is expected a pilot-boat waits 
 within the headland, so .as to carry a 
 hawser on board in time to prevent 
 these fatal effects. But it is intended 
 to construct a harbour of refuge here. 
 The sands are thought to be now on 
 the decrease, owing to the amazing 
 quantity which is annually taken 
 from the Dunbar, and despatched for 
 manure up the country. They are 
 
332 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 said to be the richest in tlie county 
 in carb. of lime, of which they contain 
 80 per cent., and are in such demand 
 that the amount thus carried away in 
 the year has been estimated at no 
 less than 100,000 tons. A raised 
 beach may be seen at the mouth of 
 the harbour. The E. shore of the 
 estuary is desolated with sand, which, 
 piled in a series of naked hills, gives 
 great wildness to the view from 
 Padstow, but has rather a cheerful 
 appearance on an overclouded day, 
 when it appears as if brightened by 
 sunshine. 
 
 This sand has partly buried an 
 ancient chapel, dedicated to St. Eno - 
 doc (locally “ Sinkineddy ” ), and 
 situated under the E. side of Bray 
 Hill , a barren eminence 209 ft. above 
 the sea, lying a short distance N. of 
 Padstow, but on the opposite side 
 of the harbour. The sand is piled 
 around this building to the level of 
 the roof, and has been excavated to 
 allow a passage to the door, but is 
 now fixed by turf. Its accumulation 
 appears to have been arrested at a 
 distant period, as there are several 
 ancient tombstones upon the surface. 
 Observe one on the N.E. side of the 
 churchyard with a quaint inscription 
 and date 1687. This little cli. was 
 built about the year 1430, to supply 
 the place, it is thought, of an ancient 
 oratory , traces of which were revealed 
 about 50 years ago, but only for a 
 short time, by the shifting of the 
 sand on Bray Hill. On approaching 
 the existing ch, little else is seen 
 than its crooked spire of slate-stone, 
 blackened by the salt breezes and en- 
 crusted with yellow lichens. The 
 seats in the interior are wormeaten, 
 and ornamented with carving so rude 
 that it might be imagined coeval 
 with the ark. Some scarlet and gold 
 remains on the roof panels. The 
 antiquary, however, will regret the 
 necessity for the late repairs, which 
 have obliterated some of the most 
 interesting features of this little fane. 
 Its Norman font, a plain circular bowl 
 
 with cable-moulding at the base, is an 
 indication of the existence of a ch. 
 prior to the present structure. Con- 
 nected with this building, a story is 
 told, that some years ago the clergy- 
 man, in order to preserve his emolu- 
 ments and fees, was in the habit of 
 descending into the pulpit by a sky- 
 light. Service is now performed in it 
 once a fortnight. St. Enodoc is in the 
 parish of St. Minver , where is a very 
 interesting E. E. Church with Perp. 
 additions. The W. tower is E. E. 
 The nave is nearly filled with seats 
 having: well-carved, ends. There is 
 a Brass to Roger Opy and wife, 1517. 
 Some incised slate slabs have been 
 arranged behind the altar. Between 
 Wadebridge and St. Enodoc is a 
 small Chapel on the sandy shore of 
 Padstow harbour called St. Michael , j 
 or the Rock Church; it is in most 
 features like St. Enodoc Ch., but 
 without tower and spire. The font is 
 almost exactly the same. Against its 
 eastern wall, on the outside, is a good 
 head of a large cross without a staff. 
 
 On the opposite side of the estuary, 
 and near Trevose Head (4 m. W.), 
 the stranger may find the tower of 
 another old ch., dedicated to St. Con- j 
 stantine , which the sand has invaded 
 with more fatal effect. In its vicinity 
 the Feast of St. Constantine used to 
 be annually celebrated, and has been 
 discontinued only a few years. Its 
 celebration consisted in the consump- 
 tion of limpet-pies, a service in the 
 ch., and a hurling match. 
 
 Near the mouth of the harbour 
 are 3 island rocks , which are visited in 
 the summer by parties of pleasure, or 
 persons in search of gulls’ eggs. There 
 is risk, however, in the adventure, as 
 a ground-sea sometimes rises without 
 warning, and cuts off the retreat. 
 
 At Borthqueen (*. e . Porthgwin= i 
 White Porth) and Kellan Head (alt. I 
 209 ft.), situated on the coast be- j 
 tween Padstow and Port Isaac , are l 
 fine specimens of trap-dykes. Atj 
 Kellan Head the intrusive rock has 
 caught up fragments of slate, whicf|i 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 2i.—St. Columb. 333 
 
 appear to have been much altered by 
 the heat of the igneous mass. 
 
 Trevose Head (4 m. W.), where 
 are some silver-lead mines, is a good 
 point for a view of the coast, since it 
 is situated about midway between 
 Hartland and St. Ives, and projects 
 boldly into the Channel. The 
 lighthouse was erected 1847. It 
 exhibits two fixed lights, one upon 
 the summit of the tower (alt. 204 
 | ft.), the other at the base, and 
 129 ft. above high-water mark. Be- 
 tween Pentire Point and Trevose 
 Head the cliffs show the effects of 
 considerable disturbance. On the W. 
 side of the latter headland trappean 
 rocks are singularly mixed with are- 
 naceous beds and argillaceous slates. 
 Organic remains occur abundantly in 
 the slates md calcareous beds near 
 Dinas Cove , S.W. of Padstow. 
 
 In 1864 two golden crescent- 
 shaped ornaments, and a bronze celt 
 of very simple form, were found 6 ft. 
 below the surface, near Padstow; 
 they are now in the Museum at Truro 
 (Rte. 23). 
 
 Proceeding from Wadebridge to- 
 wards St. Columb : — 
 
 2 m. Before reaching this milestone 
 a small stone cross 1 . on the road- 
 side. rt. to Padstow, 6 m. (It was 
 here that Mr. Norway was murdered 
 by two brothers named Lightfoot, 
 Feb. 8, 1840. The murderers were 
 hanged at Bodmin, and confessed all 
 the circumstances of their crime. 
 On the evening of the murder, Nor- 
 way’s brother, chief officer of the 
 ship 4 Orient/ then about 7 m.N.N.W. 
 of the island of St. Helena, dreamt 
 that he saw the murder perpetrated, 
 with all the facts as they occurred, — 
 excepting only that a house which 
 he well knew, seemed in his dream 
 to be 1. instead of rt. of the road. 
 See the whole remarkable story in 
 Carlyon’s 4 Early Years and Late 
 Reflections/ vol. i. p. 219.) 
 
 1 m. Ho Man’s Land . Here the tra- 
 
 veller ascends the wild highland of 
 St. Breock Downs (alt. 739 ft.), which 
 has a particularly black and gloomy 
 aspect, even at a distance. 1. 1 m. 
 is a rock called the Druids 9 Altar ; 
 and If m. the Great Stone , at the in- 
 tersection of 4 cross-roads. 
 
 1 J m. rt. St. Issey Beacon , a conspi- 
 cuous landmark. 1. St. Breock Down . 
 
 J fin Here, 1. of the road, may be 
 seen 6 upright stones, the remnant of 
 9, which once stood in a row, and 
 were known as the Nine Maidens (in 
 Corn. “ Naw Wawrs,” the “ nine 
 sisters ”). They are possibly se- 
 pulchral. 
 
 3 m*. St. Columb Major (Inn: Red 
 Lion, kept by Polkinhorne, an excel- 
 lent guide to the district, and most 
 civil and obliging landlord). This 
 town (Pop. 2879) is situated about 5 m. 
 from the sea, and derives its name 
 from St. Columb — not the famous 
 St. Columbkille, but a sainted Irish 
 virgin, who in the 5th cent, preached 
 in Cornwall. Her remains rested in 
 the same tomb with SS. Patrick and 
 Bridget in Down Cathedral. The 
 town is seated upon an eminence, the 
 reputed site of a Danish fortification. 
 The Church (which has been restored, 
 1867, St. Aubyn, architect) is of 
 great size and beauty. It is Early 
 Dec. (piers and arches of nave, S. 
 porch door, S. transept window, and 
 font), and Perp. (all the remain- 
 ing portions). In the chancel ob- 
 serve the stone altar, found in 1846 
 under the floor, and now placed on 
 4 granite shafts — in all probability 
 its original supporters. The chancel 
 was once 10 ft. longer, but was in- 
 jured by an explosion of gunpowder 
 in 1676. The window of the S. 
 transept is a fine example. The 
 font has grotesque faces, protruding 
 tongues at each other, on the sides. 
 There are S. and N. porches ; and 
 the W. tower (Perp.) stands on open 
 arches W., S., and N. Much has 
 been done for this ch., which has 
 some good open seats. In the ch. are 
 
334 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 3 Brasses — Sir John Arundell, Kt. 
 of the Bath (1545), and 2 wives ; 
 Sir John Arundell (d. 1590) and wife 
 (engraved circ. 1630) ; and John 
 Arundell (1633) and wife. In the 
 churchyard is a small and curious 
 cross. The manor of St. Columb 
 belonged to the priory of Bodmin, 
 whence it passed to the Arundells, 
 and early in the present centy. to 
 T. Rawlings, Esq., of Padstow. The 
 Rectory , which has been lately re- 
 stored, is quadrangular and moated : 
 and is said to have been intended for 
 a college of 6 priests. The timber 
 used in the construction of the church 
 is said to have been grown upon Tre- 
 goss Moors, the fabled hunting-ground 
 of King Arthur (the Cornish word 
 goss is a corruption of coes or coed, a 
 wood) ; but the traveller will admit 
 that there is nothing to countenance 
 the tradition in the present appear- 
 ance of this district, which is as bald 
 as a desert, and even in Leland’s 
 time (Hen. VIII.) was described as “ a 
 morish ground al barren of woodde.” 
 Some good Gothic houses have been 
 lately erected in the town. 
 
 Trewan (R. H. S. Vyvyan, Esq.) 
 stands on an eminence above St. 
 Columb, of which it commands a fine 
 view in connection with a long dis- 
 tance of hill and valley. It is a bat- 
 tlemented building of the 15th cent., 
 which for a long period had fallen 
 into decay, but it has been restored by 
 its proprietor. The ancient granite 
 entrance hall has been preserved, and 
 is a fine specimen of the architecture 
 of the Elizabethan period. Carnanton, 
 seat of H. Willyams, Esq., inherited 
 from Noy, the attorney-general of 
 Charles I., who, says Fuller, “ was 
 wont pleasantly to say that his house 
 had no fault in it save only that it 
 was too near unto London/’ and 
 Nanswhyden, Miss Brune, are near 
 this town. The latter formerly be- 
 longed to Mr. Hoblyn, who published 
 an edition of the Stannary laws. He 
 was speaker of the Stannary parlia- 
 
 ment, and died in 1756. His monu- 
 ment may be seen in the ch. 
 
 St. Columb is an excellent centre 
 from which to visit many of the 
 places described in the present route 
 and in Rte. 21. It is the only spot, 
 however, from which the very inter- 
 esting range of coast between the 
 Towan and Trevose Heads — forming 
 Watergate Bay — is conveniently ac- 
 cessible. This line of coast of about 
 20 m. is at no point farther distant 
 than 8 m. from St. Columb. The 
 spots specially to be visited are the 
 vale and village of Mawgan, the 
 watering-place of Newquay, and the 
 coast between Piran Sands and Tre- 
 vose Head, including the little bay 
 known as Bodruthan Steps. (Walk 
 to Mawgan through the Carnanton 
 woods — in which the ferns are magni- 
 ficent — or drive by the lodge through 
 the grounds, permission being given.) 
 
 The Vale of Mawgan or Lanherne, 
 which stretches in a direct line from 
 the town of St. Columb to the lonely 
 little “Porth” or cove in which it 
 terminates, is perhaps the most beau- 
 tiful “ combe ” on the N. coast of 
 Cornwall. Throughout, it “presents 
 a succession of lovely scenery : the 
 groves of Carnanton, once the seat 
 of Noy, Charles I/s able, though 
 miserly and crabbed, attorney-gene- 
 ral (his heart at his death was found 
 shrivelled up, say his biographers, 
 into the substance of a leathern penny 
 purse); the grey convent at Lan- 
 herne, formerly the manor-house of 
 the Arundells, devoted by one of the 
 family to the reception of nuns 
 driven here by the first French revo- 
 lution ; the old church tower of 
 Mawgan, embowered in its grove 
 of lofty Cornish elms (the small- 
 leaved variety, strangely neglected 
 in other parts of England)/’ 
 
 The Church of St. Mawgan (3 m. 
 from St. Columb) is throughout 
 Perp., with a fine tower, 70 ft. high, 
 from the top of which the view 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 335 
 
 Route 22 .- 
 
 down the valley is striking. The 
 ch., which contains many of the old 
 carved bench-ends, has been restored 
 by Butterfield , who also designed the 
 new parsonage. There are Brasses 
 for — a priest, circ. 1420 ; Cecily, dau. 
 of Sir John Arundell, 1578 ; a civi- 
 lian, circ. 1580 ; and Jane, dan. of Sir 
 John Arundel, c. 1580. “ She served 
 5 queens,” runs the inscription. This 
 brass is a palimpsest, and has on the 
 reverse portions of 2 Flemish brasses, 
 circ. 1375. The nuns of Lanherne 
 buried in the transept until lately. 
 In the churchyard is a very interest- 
 ing cross of the 14th centy. Under 4 
 niches at the summit of an octagonal 
 shaft are — the Almighty Father with 
 the dove holding a crucifix, the usual 
 representation of the Holy Trinity; 
 an Abbot ; an Abbess ; and a King 
 and Queen, the latter kneeling at 
 a lectern ; below, an angel holds a 
 scroll, which rises to the queen’s 
 crown. The work is well executed 
 and well preserved. Here is also the 
 stern of a boat, painted white, and 
 erected in the place of a tombstone 
 over the grave of 10 unfortunate 
 fishermen who, on a winter’s night 
 of 1846, were drifted ashore in their 
 boat, a ghastly crew, frozen to death. 
 Adjoining the ch» is the old manor- 
 house of the Arundells, Lanherne , for 
 the last 50 years a Carmelite nun- 
 nery. It became the property of the 
 Cornish Arundells in 1231. On their 
 extinction in 1700 it passed to Lord 
 Arundel! of Wardour, and in the 
 beginning of the present centy. was 
 assigned by its proprietor to a sister- 
 hood of nuns, who, driven from 
 France to Antwerp by the Revolu- 
 tion, had emigrated to England when 
 the French entered Belgium. It has 
 always belonged to a Roman Catho- 
 lic ; and in one of the walls is a 
 secret chamber in which, it is said, a 
 priest was concealed for 18 months 
 in the reign of Elizabeth. One side of 
 the house is ancient (circ. 1580 ? )'; the 
 other 1 50 years old. The inmates are 
 an abbess and 20 nuns, 18 English 
 
 —Mawgan. 
 
 and 2 French women, who inhabit 
 the modern portion of the building. 
 The chapel, fitted up in the style of 
 Louis XIV., is the only room to 
 which strangers can gain access, but 
 it is hardly worth seeing. It is situ- 
 ated in the ancient part of the house, 
 and contains some copies from the 
 old masters, and a silver lamp burn- 
 ing perpetually before the high altar. 
 The nuns occupy a gallery closely 
 boarded and curtained, for even the 
 officiating priest is denied a view of 
 them. Strangers may here attend 
 mass, but they are not allowed to 
 advance from beneath the gallery 
 wirilst the nuns are in the chapel. 
 The convent gardens, surrounded by 
 high walls, are used for exercise and 
 burial, the cemetery containing an 
 ancient sculptured cross , the shaft 
 covered with knot-work, which ori- 
 ginally stood in the parish of Gwinear. 
 
 From Mawgan you should walk 
 down the valley to the coast, and 
 visit Mawgan Forth , and the romantic 
 little bay called Bodruthan Steps, about 
 1 m. to the N. of it. (Overhanging 
 Bodruthan is an ancient entrench- 
 ment, known as Red Cliff Castle.) 
 The sea view from the top of the cliffs, 
 looking out over the bay, is almost 
 unrivalled. “ Across the beds of sea- 
 pink, our feet sinking deeper in its 
 soft cushions at every step we take 
 ... we stand at the cliff-edge. . . . 
 I grant the most patriotic Cornubian 
 at once, that nowhere, at no time, 
 had we looked on a scene like this. 
 Twenty miles of cliff, a hundred of 
 rolling water outspread before us — a 
 score or more of lesser bays, each 
 with their own golden sands and 
 gleaming promontory indented within 
 the embrace of the one noble bay.” — 
 G. F. J. These are the seas which 
 Hook delights to paint. Before him 
 “ no artist seems to have truly felt 
 the gladness and glory of our blue 
 waters.”-— F. T. F. There is excel- 
 lent fishing (trout and peal) in the 
 stream which runs through the Maw- 
 
836 
 
 Route 22 . — Launceston to Truro* Sect. It* 
 
 gan valley. The coast at Mawgan 
 Porth is pierced with caverns in all 
 directions, said to be of unknown 
 extent. The largest has an entrance 
 about 300 ft. high, and extends in- 
 ward for about 800 ft. Bodmthan 
 Steps (formerly reached by numerous 
 steps down the cliffs) is a bay N. of 
 Mawgan Porth, with a beach of fine 
 sand — slate cliffs of 400 ft. high, 
 pierced by numberless caverns — and 
 some weatherworn and fantastic 
 masses of rock studding the sands 
 themselves. One of them is known as 
 “ Queen Elizabeth’s Rock,” and really 
 resembles the well-known small 
 crowned head and spreading ruff. 
 The view extends from Trevose to 
 the To wan. 
 
 St. Columb Minor (pop. 2067) is 5 m. 
 W. from St. Columb, near the sea, in 
 a valley W. of Mawgan. The ch. is 
 late Dec., with a fine W. tower. In 
 its vicinity are Rialton , which gave 
 title to the statesman Sidney Godol- 
 phin, and the ruins of 
 
 Ricdton Priory (so called), which are 
 now, however, rather a subject for 
 regret than admiration, as they have 
 been much mutilated within the last 
 few years. Rialton belonged to the 
 priory of Bodmin ; and this house 
 was built about the end of the 15th 
 centy., by Thomas Vivian, then prior 
 of Bodmin, whose tomb remains in 
 Bodmin church. On the coast is the 
 little harbour of 
 
 Lower St. Columb Porth , where the 
 traveller may witness the phenome- 
 non of a blow-hole , through which, at 
 intervals, the sea is forcibly driven, 
 when the tide is at a certain height. 
 
 Newquay ( Inns : Old Inn ; Red 
 Lion ; lodgings are scarce and very 
 indifferent), 7 m. from St. Columb, 
 and 2 m. W. of St. Columb Minor, is 
 a small but rising watering-place 
 where the pilchard fishery is pursued 
 on a considerable scale. It is situated 
 at the W. end of Watergate Bay , under 
 the shelter of Towan Head , and its 
 sandy beach runs 3 m. E. beneath a 
 
 range of romantic cliffs, which are 
 particularly fine at a place called 
 Filorey between Newquay and Maw- 
 gan. The eastern side of Newquay 
 Bay is closed by an island, which 
 forms the Trevalgey Head. It is 
 approached by a wooden bridge across 
 the ravine 20 ft. wide, which sepa- 
 rates it from the mainland. In a 
 W. direction, between Towan Head 
 and Piran Bay, the coast presents the 
 following series of sandy coves which 
 are girded by cavernous cliffs : — 
 Fistral Bay , bounded on the W. by 
 Pentire Point and the Goose Rock ; 
 Crantock Bay , with the estuary of the 
 Gannel , which is little else than sand — 
 the islet called the Chick is off the W. 
 point ; Holywell Bay , so named from 
 a spring of fresh water in a cavern 
 accessible only at low tide ; the bay 
 terminates on the W. with Penhale 
 Point and the outlying rock termed 
 the Carters. 
 
 Newquay is the northern terminus 
 of a railroad commenced by the late 
 Mr. Treffry, of Place House, Fowey, 
 which runs from one coast of the 
 county to the other in a line from 
 Par to Newquay, a distance of about 
 20 m. Passengers are not conveyed 
 by it. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Newquay 
 has much interest for the geologist. 
 He may find a bed of fossiliferous 
 limestone, resting on variegated slates, 
 in the small island lying off Lower 
 St. Columb Porth; and in the cliffs 
 of Watergate Bay a very excellent 
 section of these slate-beds, and a fine 
 example of an elvan (about 2 m. W. 
 of Mawgan), which cuts the grau- 
 wacke cliff' nearly at right angles to 
 the strike of the beds. At Newquay 
 the blown sand is consolidated into a 
 very interesting rock — a recent sand- 
 stone, which is still in the course of 
 formation, owing to the infiltration 
 of water holding iron in solution. 
 It is sufficiently compact to be quar- 
 ried for building purposes, and when 
 ground and burnt forms an excellent 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 337 
 
 cement, and has been used as such in 
 Newquay pier. As a building stone 
 it has been employed in the construc- 
 tion of the neighbouring ch. of Gran - 
 tock. When first raised it is some- 
 what soft, but becomes hard by 
 exposure, in consequence of the eva- 
 poration of the water contained in it. 
 The cliffs between Newquay and 
 Trevose Head illustrate, in a strik- 
 ing manner, the destruction of a 
 coast by heavy breakers. In Crcintock 
 Ch., which has Dec. and E. E. por- 
 tions, is a curious circular Font, date 
 1473. The ch. was collegiate. 
 
 T rerice, the ancient mansion of the 
 Arundells of Lanherne, is situated 
 about 3j m. S.E. from Newquay. 
 (See Rte. 21.) 
 
 Rather more than 1 m. S.E. of St. 
 Columb, on the S. side of the road 
 leading from Trekinning to Belovely, 
 and behind a cottage lie the ruins of 
 a cromlech of killas stone (the stone of 
 the district), the impost being about 
 9 ft. in length, and of great propor- 
 tionate thickness. 
 
 2 m. S.E. of St. Columb is the 
 eminence of Castle an Dinas — (alt. 
 729 ft.), crowned with an ellip- 
 tical doubly entrenched camp of 6 
 acres, which tradition proclaims the 
 hunting-seat of King Arthur , who, ac- 
 cording to the legend, chased the wild 
 deer on the Tregoss Moors. There 
 are 2 tumuli within the area, one 
 surrounded by a slight ditch. The 
 geologist as well as the antiquary 
 may find amusement in this old 
 castle, for the alteration of slate by 
 the proximity of granite is well seen 
 on the hill. Observe the schorl 
 which has been introduced among 
 the laminse. 
 
 The Roche Rochs (Rte. 21) are 
 about 5 m. distant in the same di- 
 rection. 4 m. S.W. is the village of 
 Colan , of interest for its ch., which 
 was founded 1250 by Bishop Brans- 
 combe, but much altered in the Perp. 
 period. 
 
 For the remainder of this route 
 see Rte. 21. 
 
 [Dev, fy Com.'] 
 
 ROUTE 23. 
 
 PLYMOUTH TO TRURO, BY SALTASH, 
 ST. GERMANS, LISKEARD (THE 
 CHEESEWRING, ST. NEOT’s), BODMIN,, 
 LOSTWITHIEL (RESTORMEL), ST. 
 BLAZEY, AND ST. AUSTELL [CORN- 
 WALL RLY.]. (PERRANZABULOE ; 
 PERRAN ROUND ; THE COAST.) 
 
 The Cornwall Rig. from Plymouth 
 to Truro, and the West Cornwall’Rlg. 
 from Truro to Penzance, now carry 
 the iron road to within 10 m. of the 
 Land's End ; but the construction of 
 the Cornwall Rly. has been attended 
 by difficulties of no ordinary kind. 
 An estuary had to be spanned, and 
 the line conducted over the rocky 
 hills of a semi-mountainous country, 
 and across numerous deep valleys. 
 It was a labour for a Hercules, 
 but Mr. Brunei accomplished the 
 feat. In May 1859 the rly. was 
 opened to public traffic. Its comple- 
 tion, however, had occupied 12 years, 
 and in the short space of 60 m. there 
 are no less than 7 tunnels, and 43 
 viaducts, of which some are 150 ft. 
 in height. The greatest of the many 
 difficulties was to cross the Tamar, 
 the boundary of the county, where 
 the estuary was \ m. wide, and im- 
 passable at one bound ; and where 
 the water in mid stream was 70 ft. 
 deep. This was accomplished by the 
 Q 
 
338 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 lloute 23. — Plymouth to Truro * 
 
 late Mr. Brunei, in the very remark- 
 able structure of the 
 
 Royal Albert Bridye . (From the 
 
 Saltash stations persons are allowed 
 to walk on the bridge, paying 3d. 
 each.) This extraordinary viaduct 
 — which for novelty and ingenuity 
 of construction stands unrivalled in 
 the world — carries the rly. at a 
 height of 100 ft. above the water 
 from the hills of Devon to those 
 of Cornwall, on 19 spans or arches, 
 of which 2 alone bridge the estuary 
 in gigantic leaps of 455 ft. Its 
 total length is 2240 ft., or nearly 
 |m., its greatest width only 30 ft., 
 but its height, from the founda- 
 tion to the top of the tubes, 260 ft., 
 or 50 ft. greater than that of the 
 Monument. The estuary is here at 
 its narrowest point, but broader than 
 the Thames at Westminster, and not 
 to be spanned without the aid of a 
 central pier. To found and build 
 such a structure was the first great 
 difficulty. The second was to hang 
 the roadway; for as a central pier 
 afforded no point to which chains 
 could be secured, it was impossible 
 to erect a suspension bridge similar 
 to the Britannia. The supports of 
 the roadway must be made in a 
 manner self-supporting, and this Mr. 
 Brunei effected, by an ingenious 
 combination of the arch, the tubular 
 girder, and suspension chain. The 
 main chains which stretch from the 
 shore to the central pier, and from 
 which the roadway hangs, are at- 
 tached at the ends to enormous iron 
 tubes, which in two magnificent 
 curves bridge the estuary. Thus 
 each tube gives support to the chain, 
 and forms with it a double bow, or 
 ellipsis. The chief labours of con- 
 struction were to build the central 
 pier, and to raise the tubes. Each 
 weighs about 1200 tons, and to up- 
 hold such a mass of iron it was ne- 
 cessary that the foundatioh should 
 rest on the solid rock. But to reach 
 this was no easy matter. The depth 
 
 of water was 70 ft., and the river- 
 bed, of mud and gravel, 20 ft. It 
 was accomplished by means of a 
 novel application of the cofferdam 
 principle. A cylinder of wrought 
 iron, 100 ft. in height, 37 ft. in 
 diam., and weighing 300 tons, was 
 sunk on the spot selected. The 
 water was pumped out and air forced 
 in, and the men set to work as in a 
 diving-bell. But the labour was most 
 severe. The excavation was carried 
 on under a pressure of 38 lbs. to 
 the inch, which produced distressing 
 symptoms, and in one instance a 
 fatal effect; and although less felt 
 after a time, when 40 men could 
 work together with little inconve- 
 nience, it was gratifying to all par- 
 ties to see the granite pile emerge 
 above the surface of the river. 
 Then commenced a series of very 
 interesting operations. One of the 
 tubes was put together on the shore, 
 floated out on pontoons — each 50 ft. 
 in length— and lodged at high water 
 upon the bases of the piers, which 
 were to rise simultaneously with the 
 arch as it was lifted by hydraulic 
 pressure. Each tube is elliptical in 
 form, and constructed throughout of 
 inch boiler-plate, strengthened inside 1 
 by ties and diaphragms. It is 12 ft. 
 in height, and 17 ft. in width. The 
 process of placing the two tubes in 
 position occupied from 5 to 6 months. 
 The western tube was first raised. 
 Twice a week it was lifted by the 
 presses 3 ft., and in the following 3 
 days the masonry was built up an- 
 other 3 ft. Thus the progress was 
 6 ft. per week, and at the end of 
 each week the 6 ft. joints of the 
 iron columns of the central pier I 
 were added. These pillars are of 
 colossal dimensions. They are 4 in 
 number, octagon in their shape, 10 ft. 
 in diam., and 100 ft. in height. They 
 stand 10 ft. apart in the centre of 
 the granite pile, and are bound to-® 
 gether by a lattice-work of wrought ! 
 iron. Each weighs about 150 tons. I 
 On the top, like a capital, rests the I 
 
339 
 
 Cornwall. Route 23 . — Royal Albert Bridge — Salt ash. 
 
 standard, a mass of 200 tons, to 
 which the tubes are bolted. The 
 piers which carry the roadway to 
 the hills are of more moderate pro- 
 portions. They are each formed of 
 double columns of stone, braced to- 
 gether by a girder of boiler-plate, 
 but the main piers on the shore are 
 of more massive construction. They 
 have to share with the central pier 
 the weight and thrust of the bridge. 
 They are 190 ft. in height from the 
 foundation, and of solid masonry 
 29 ft. by 17. Such, in brief, is an 
 outline of the Saltash viaduct, which 
 will probably remain unsurpassed for 
 many years to come. It is longer 
 by 300 ft. than the far-famed bridge 
 of Anglesea, but it has been erected 
 at a much less cost. Its strength, 
 too, has been severely tested. Each 
 span was subjected to a dead-weight 
 strain, uniformly distributed, of 
 2300 tons. This amounted to about 
 5| tons per inch of the section of 
 the tube, but the weight of the 
 heaviest train will be less than J ton 
 per inch. The pressure of the struc- 
 ture on the base of its central pier 
 is calculated at 8 tons per foot, or 
 double the pressure of the Victoria 
 Tower on its foundation. 
 
 [The old road from Plymouth into 
 Cornwall passes through Devonport 
 and its fortifications to the ferry 
 across Hamoaze , where the carriage 
 and horses are placed upon the 
 steam-bridge , established 1831, by the 
 late J. M. Rendel, the engineer, then 
 residing in Plymouth. It was a 
 novel invention for crossing rivers, 
 and was first applied by Mr. Rendel 
 to the Dart, then at Torpoint and 
 Saltash, and afterwards at South- 
 ampton and Portsmouth. Its value 
 was recognised by the Royal Soc., 
 who awarded for it the Telford 
 medal. The passage occupies about 
 8 minutes. The floating bridge 
 passes among numerous ships laid up 
 in ordinary.] 
 
 The Rly. from Plymouth and De- 
 vonport to the steam ferry at Saltash 
 commands a fine view of the Hamoaze ; 
 and, on its opposite shore, of the 
 woods of Thankes (Lord Graves) and 
 of Antony (seat of the Carews), the 
 town of Torpoint , the St. Germans river , 
 and the old keep of Trematon rising 
 from a bank of foliage. At Saltash 
 the estuary is considerably contracted, 
 and here the Cornwall Railway spans 
 it by the Royal Albert Bridge. 
 
 4| m. Saltash Stat . {Inn : Green 
 Dragon Hotel.) This town (Pop. 
 1900), anciently known as “ Asche '* 
 and u Ascheburgh ” — probably from 
 some great ash-tree which once 
 stood there ; — inhabited principally 
 by fishermen, climbs the steep shore 
 of the Tamar, and from the river 
 presents a very striking appearance, 
 the acclivity being abrupt, and the 
 old houses hanging in tiers one 
 above the other. The picturesque 
 effect of this grouping is consider- 
 ably heightened by a variety of co- 
 lours, arising from a strange jumble 
 of materials. One house is con- 
 structed of stone, another of brick, a 
 third fronted with plaster, and a 
 fourth with slate. The principal 
 “ sight” at Saltash is the view from 
 the high ground above the town, 
 where the roads branch towards Tre- 
 maton and Callington. It is of great 
 extent and beauty, comprising Ha- 
 moaze and its wooded shores, the 
 wonderful viaduct, the arsenal, steam- 
 yard, and dockyard of Devonport, 
 Mount Edgcumbe, the winding river 
 and distant ocean. To this may 
 be added, a sumptuous tomb to 3 
 brothers Drew in the old Chapel of 
 St. Nicholas. This chapel contains 
 Dec. and Perp. portions, and has 
 a tower which may be very early 
 Norm. The roof-bosses are curious. 
 Among their ornaments occur the 
 arms of Richard King of the Ro- 
 mans (son of King John and 
 Earl of Cornwall), and of his son 
 Edward, also Earl of Cornwall. A 
 Q 2 
 
340 
 
 Sect. 11. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 tablet inserted in the wall of this 
 building is inscribed, — “This chappie 
 was repaired in the Mayoralty of 
 Matthew Veale, Gent., anno 1689.” 
 The Mayor of Saltash is an impor- 
 tant personage : he takes precedence 
 of the Mayor of Plymouth, and by 
 virtue of his office is also coroner for 
 the borough of Plymouth. The Sal- 
 tash corporation has jurisdiction over 
 the waters of Plymouth Sound and 
 its tributaries, and derives a con- 
 siderable revenue from the buoys 
 which it maintains therein. 
 
 The Roman road, proceeding west 
 from Exeter (a branch of the Icenhilde 
 Way), crossed the Tamar at this 
 point ; and the “ Statio Tamara ” of 
 the Itineraries was no doubt at King’s 
 Tamerton, immediately above the 
 river, on the Devonshire side. The 
 right of ferry at Saltash, temp. Edw. 
 III. , was granted by the Bladk Prince, 
 as Duke of Cornwall, during his 
 delay at Plymouth in 1355 (see Rte. 
 7) to a soldier who had been wounded 
 in the French wars. (See Sir H. 
 Nicolas's Hist, of Navy). 
 
 (An excursion up the Tamar, as 
 far as the Weir-head and Morwell 
 Rocks, is one of the most interesting 
 in the county. See Devon , Rte. 7 ; 
 and Cornwall, Rte. 25.) 
 
 Saltash is known for its fishermen, 
 but more so for its fish women, who 
 are celebrated for their prowess at the 
 oar, and not unfrequently bear away 
 the prizes at the different regattas. 
 It was an ancient borough previous 
 to the Reform Bill, by which it was 
 disfranchised, and has been repre- 
 sented in Parliament by Waller the 
 poet and Clarendon the historian, 
 who was its member in the Long 
 Parliament. It first appears as a free 
 borough, temp. Hen. III.). Saltash, 
 as commanding one of the princi- 
 pal passes into Cornwall, was fre- 
 quently taken and held by either 
 party during the civil war. In 1643 
 it was the scene of a furious en- 
 gagement, when Lord Mohun and 
 
 Sir Ralph Hopton drove Rutlien, 
 the governor of Plymouth, across 
 the Tamar, in spite of the cannon 
 which he had planted in the narrow 
 avenues, and of the fire of a ship of 
 16 guns. Ruthen had been pre- 
 viously beaten on Braddoc Down 
 near Liskeard. 
 
 St. Stephen's is the parish ch., and 
 about 1 m. from the town. It has a 
 lofty tower; and a fine Norm, font, 
 in all respects resembling that at 
 Bodmin (see the present Route, post). 
 An old lich-stone lies just within the 
 porch of the churchyard. Having 
 walked to St. Stephen’s, the stranger 
 will probably extend his ramble, as 
 at this place he comes in view of the 
 ancient 
 
 Castle of Trematon rising from a 
 wood. (It is seen rt. of the rly. 
 after passing Saltash.) It is sepa- 
 rated from the church by a deep 
 valley pierced by . an inlet from 
 the Lynher Creek, at the head 
 of which a small hamlet nestles 
 under the shelter of the hill. The 
 remains of this castle are consider- 
 able, but not so picturesque as many 
 other ruins, on account of the red. 
 colour of the stone. They are, how- 
 ever, beautifully decked with ivy 
 and encircled by lawns and shrub- 
 beries. The mansion, which con- 
 tains some fine paintings, was erected 
 about 30 years ago by the late B. 
 Tucker, Esq., partly at the expense 
 of the castle walls. The manor of 
 Trematon was one of those which 
 fell to the share of Robert of Mor- 
 tain, half-brother of the Conqueror, 
 and was afterwards held by the 
 Valletorts, — from one of whom, 
 Roger de Valletort, it passed to 
 Richard, the great Earl of Cornwall, 
 and King of the Romans. It has since i 
 been attached to the duchy. The 
 Black Prince gave it for life to Sir 
 Nigel Loring, who had been bis com- 
 panion in arms during the French 
 wars. A Stannary Court was an- ! 
 ciently held in the castle, and Gilpin 
 
341 
 
 Cornwall. Route 23 . — Trematon Castle — River Lynher . 
 
 remarks that “ Trematon law is almost 
 to this day an object of reverence 
 among the common people of Corn- 
 wall.” During the riots in 1549 the 
 castle was plundered by the rebels, 
 who, enticing the governor, Sir 
 Richard Grenville, beyond the walls 
 by the pretence of a parley, in- 
 tercepted his return. The ruins 
 are encircled by a moat, and con- 
 sist of an enclosing wall crown- 
 ing the summit of a lofty mound, 
 of the walls of the base court, and 
 of a square massive tower at the 
 entrance, pierced with an archway, 
 which is furnished with grooves for 
 a portcullis. The wall which crowns 
 the “ motte ” or mound may be of 
 the 13th centy. and was possibly the 
 work of the Valletorts. The castle 
 resembles Exeter, Totnes, and Plymp- 
 ton, in having no regular keep — the 
 lofty mound with its wall answering 
 all the purpose of a high and strong 
 tower. The mound is partly natural, 
 and has been scarped. It commands a 
 noble view, and was perhaps a British 
 stronghold before it was “ caste- 
 lated.” Strangers are admitted on 
 week-days. Between the castle and 
 the village of Trematon is a wayside 
 octagonal cross about 4 ft. high. 
 
 The Lynher (which the rly. crosses 
 by a viaduct) and its numerous 
 branches afford the means of pleasant 
 water excursions; their shores being 
 hilly and covered with wood. [An- 
 tony, the seat of the family of Carew 
 (pron. Carey — this branch of the 
 Carews of Mohun’s Ottery and Hac- 
 combe (see Rte. 3) has been seated 
 here since the 15th cent.), is bounded 
 partly by this creek and partly by 
 the Tamar. The house was built by 
 Gibbs in 1721, and contains a collec- 
 tion of pictures by Holbein, Vandyke, 
 Sir Joshua Reynolds , Kneller, Lely, &c. 
 The two Holbeins — portraits of Sir 
 William Butts and his wife deserve 
 especial notice, and are among the 
 finest examples of the master in 
 England. (They were exhibited 
 
 among the National Portraits at South 
 Kensington in 1863, and among the 
 “ Old Masters ” at Burlington House 
 in 1872). Sir William Butts was the 
 principal physician to Henry VIII., 
 and is introduced in Shakespeare’s 
 play, where he points out to the king 
 Archbishop Cranmer kept waiting 
 among lacqueys. The face has been 
 slightly injured and repaired, but the 
 picture is of great beauty. That of 
 Lady Butts (dau. of John Bacon, of 
 Cambridgeshire) is perfect, “a rare 
 jewel in art, which has lost none of 
 its first lustre.” There is also a por- 
 trait of Richard Carew, the author 
 of the 4 Survey of Cornwall,’ and a 
 head of Sir Kenelrn Digby, by Van- 
 dyke. A monument to the same 
 Richard Carew will be found in the 
 neighbouring ch. of Antony (s eepost. 
 A group of ilex oaks in the grounds 
 of Antony, planted about 1725, con- 
 tains perhaps the largest and oldest 
 trees in England of this species. 
 A ferry crosses Antony Passage to 
 Trematon, and below it is Beg- 
 gar's Lsland. (The story, given in 
 Carew’s ‘ Survey,’ runs that a.Carew 
 found two beggars fighting in his 
 grounds at Antony, landed them 
 on this island, told them to fight it 
 out, and left them.) At Merrifield, 
 between Antony and Torpoint is a 
 very good new Church (W. White, 
 archit.), serving for the eastern part 
 of the parish, and especially for 
 the little village of Wilcove, famous 
 for early brocoli. Above Antony 
 House the voyager to St. Germans 
 passes below the woods of Shilling- 
 ham, the original seat of the Buffer 
 family (there are small remains of 
 the chapel of the house) ; and then 
 Lnce Castle , now a farm-house, but 
 once a mansion of the Earls of Devon, 
 and in the civil war garrisoned by 
 the Royalists. Ince is a 16th-centy. 
 house, and a solitary example of a 
 brick building in a stone country. 
 It was for some time a seat of the 
 Killigrews, one of whom was painted 
 with his neighbour Carew by Yam 
 
354 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro. 
 
 in Brittany. The prior of Bodmin 
 appealed in person to Henry II., who 
 ordered Rolaud of Dinan, justiciar 
 of Brittany, to obtain restitution of 
 the relics. He threatened to storm 
 the abbey. The bones of St. Petrock 
 were restored ; and Prior Roger 
 brought back his treasure in an ivory 
 shrine. This is probably the “ theca 
 eburnea ” w hich is still preserved at 
 Bodmin. It is a casket composed of 
 thin slabs of polished ivory, enriched 
 with gold and colour, the devices being 
 birds, foliage, and geometrical com- 
 binations within circles. The length 
 is 1 ft. 6 in. ; height 1 ft. The work is 
 of Moorish type ; and the casket may 
 well have been made either in south- 
 ern Spain or in Sicily. It is the 
 finest and largest reliquary of this 
 class which exists in this country. 
 
 In the yard, E. of the chancel, 
 stands the ivy-clad chapel of St. 
 Thomas the Martyr, Dec., with good 
 3-light window, sedilia, and piscina. 
 Here is also the fragment of the shaft 
 of a cross. 
 
 Bodmin had formerly several other 
 chapels, long since destroyed. Berry 
 Bower , however, on the hill to the N., 
 is a relic of the Chapel of the Guild 
 of the Holy Rood, and w'as built in 
 the reign of Henry VI. The Fran- 
 ciscans , or Grey Friars, were esta- 
 blished in Bodmin about 1239. The 
 great hall in which the assizes were 
 formerly held was either the refec- 
 tory or the ch. of their convent. This 
 was destroyed almost entirely to 
 make room for the present assize- 
 court — a plain building, dating from 
 1837. The W. end of the Franciscan 
 building remains, and is used as a 
 corn-market. The gate-house of the 
 convent has been converted into a 
 dwelling-house (now occupied by a 
 shoemaker named Trevertoin. 
 
 The Town-hall is old, and has a 
 curious carved wooden doorway in 
 the street, lGth centy. There is a 
 wooden doorway in the High Street, 
 going towards the Asylum, a flat- 
 headed trefoil, probably early 14th 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 centy., in a small hostelry of humble 
 character. 
 
 In the Market Home , built 1839, 
 is a bell, rung at the opening and 
 close of the market, which was 
 brought from the refectory of the 
 Franciscans. It resembles one still 
 remaining at Arras, on which is the 
 date 1400. 
 
 Bodmin has a Literary Institution f 
 and on its outskirts the County Gaol 
 and County Lunatic Asylum , which 
 may be visited by strangers, subject 
 to certain regulations. 
 
 The leaders of the rising in 1496, 
 for resisting the collection of a sub- 
 sidy by Henry VII., were both men 
 of Bodmin — Flamank, and Michael 
 Joseph, a blacksmith. (For a relic 
 left by the latter in Devonshire, as 
 the insurgents pressed onward to 
 Blackheath, see Rte, 1 7.) They were 
 hanged at Tyburn. In the same year 
 Perkin Warbeck, after landing in 
 Whitsand Bay, advanced to Bodmin, 
 and there was proclaimed as Richard 
 IV. 3000 men flocked to his stand- 
 ard here, and marched on Exeter 
 (see Rte. 1). 
 
 In 1549 Bodmin was the scene of 
 a singular execution. The Cornish 
 rebels having encamped in the neigh- 
 bourhood, the inhabitants of this town 
 obliged Boyer, their mayor, to allow 
 them the necessary supplies. Shortly 
 afterwards the insurgents were de- 
 feated near Exeter by Lord Russell, 
 and the provost marshal, Sir Anthony 
 Kingston, was despatched into Corn- 
 wall to bring the fugitives to justice. 
 Upon entering the county, Kingston 
 informed Boyer by letter that lie 
 would dine with him on' a certain 
 day, and at the appointed time ar- 
 rived accompanied by a train of 
 followers. The mayor received him 
 with hospitality, but a little before 
 dinuer Kingston took his host aside 
 and whispering in his ear that one 
 of the townspeople was to be exe- 
 cuted requested that a gallows might 
 be erected. The mayor ordered it 
 to be prepared, and as soon as din- 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 23 . — Bodmin : Excursions . 
 
 355 
 
 ner was ended Sir Anthony asked 
 whether the work was finished. The 
 mayor answered that all was ready. 
 “I pray you/' said the provost, 
 “ bring me to the place ; ” and he 
 took the mayor by the arm, and, be- 
 holding the gallows, asked whether 
 he thought that it was strong enough. 
 “ Yes,” said the mayor, “doubtless 
 it is.” “ Well, then,” said the pro- 
 vost, “ get thee up speedily, for it is 
 prepared for you!” “I hope,” an- 
 swered the poor mayor, “ you mean 
 not as you speak.” “ In faith !” said 
 the provost, “ there is no remedy, 
 for thou hast been a busy rebel.” 
 Accordingly the mayor was strung 
 up without further ceremony. 
 
 At Helland , 2 m. N., are some 
 small remains of the Manor-house, 
 once the seat of another famous in- 
 surgent of the same period, Hum- 
 phrey Arundell, governor of St. Mi- 
 chael’s Mount (Rte. 29, Exc. 1). 
 
 On Halgover , or the Goafs Moor, 1 
 
 m. S., there was anciently held, in 
 the month of July, a carnival, which 
 has been long discontinued. A Lord 
 of Misrule was appointed, before 
 whom any unpopular person, so un- 
 lucky as to be captured, was dragged 
 to answer a charge of felony; the 
 imputed crime being such as his ap- 
 pearance might suggest — a negli- 
 gence in his attire, or a breach of 
 manners. With ludicrous gravity 
 a mock trial was then commenced, 
 and judgment as gravely pronounced, 
 when the culprit was hurried off to 
 receive his punishment. In this his 
 apparel was generally a greater suf- 
 ferer than his person, as it commonly 
 terminated in his being thrown into 
 the water or the mire. There is no 
 doubt as to the antiquity of this 
 curious jubilee : — “ Take him before 
 the mayor of Halgaver” — “ Present 
 him in Halgaver Court” — are old 
 Cornish proverbs. 
 
 At St. Lawrence, 1 m. N.W., are 
 some very scanty remains of a hos- 
 
 pital for lepers. This hospital was in 
 existence as early as the 13th centy., 
 and was perhaps founded by the 
 Franciscans, to whom the care of 
 lepers was an especial object. It was 
 incorporated by Queen Eliz., 1582. 
 St. Lawrence is now only celebrated 
 for an annual horse-fair (Aug. 10). 
 
 A good view of Bodmin and of 
 the neighbouring country— it is said 
 that a circumf. of 28 parishes may 
 be traced — is obtained from the Bea- 
 con Hill, S. of the town. The obelisk 
 on the hill is a monument to the late 
 Lieut.-Gen. Sir Walter Raleigh Gil- 
 bert, of Indian celebrity, a native 
 of the town, who died 1853. About 
 2 j m. from Bodmin Ch. is a Roman 
 camp, from which coins of Vespasian, 
 Samian ware, &c., have been dug. 
 It is a parallelogram, of which 2 
 sides remain. It commands a ford 
 across the Alan river. 
 
 The chief excursions are to the 
 Glynn Valley and the Pencarrow Woods. 
 
 The Bodmin Road Stat. (on the 
 Cornwall Rly.) is at 
 
 Glynn Bridge, 4 m. on the road to 
 Liskeard. Above it is Glynn (Lord 
 Vivian), below it Lanhydrock (Lord 
 Robartes ; see post, Exc. from Lost- 
 withiel), both beautiful seats on the 
 banks of the Fowey. Glynn was 
 the old family seat of the Glynn 
 family until bought by the late 
 Lord Vivian. The house had been 
 nearly destroyed by fire, and was 
 renovated and much improved by 
 its new proprietor. Among the pic- 
 tures at Glynn is a portrait by 
 Reynolds of Mr. Craunch of Plymp- 
 ton, by whose advice the young art- 
 ist was sent to London to be placed 
 under Hudson.. On the road to 
 Glynn Bridge the old entrenchment 
 of Castle Canyhe is passed on the rt. 
 This is nearly circular. The site 
 commands a wide view. 
 
 Pencarrow , the seat of the late 
 Colonial Secretary, Sir Wm. Moles- 
 worth, Bart, (and now of the Dow- 
 ager Lady Molesworth), lies 3J m, 
 
344 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro. 
 
 body of the eh., excepting the N, 
 aisle, dates from the 14th centy. ; 
 the N. aisle was added in the 15th. 
 The nave, aisle, and Dawney tran- 
 sept were restored (Street, archit.) 
 in 1872. The churchyard cross, of 
 carved granite, is a memorial to 
 Lieut. Glanville, 2nd Bengal Euro- 
 peans, kiUed at Cawnpore, 1857. 
 
 Trethill, £ m. S.E. of Sheviock, 
 belonged to the family of Wallis, one 
 of whom discovered Otaheite. 
 
 2£ m. beyond Sheviock is Antony 
 (in East\ situated on the shore of 
 the Lynhcr Creek , which has here the 
 appearance of an extensive lake. 
 The church stands high, and Mas 
 struck by lightning on Whitsunday, 
 1C40, when 14 persons were “scor- 
 ched,” but none killed. The view 
 from the churchyard is magni- 
 ficent, and Mas greatly admired by 
 J. M. W. Turner. To the E. the 
 woods of Antony form a promon- 
 tory, and in the distance rise the 
 Dartmoor tors. The Churchy dedi- 
 cated to St. James the Less, is said 
 to have been built in 1420. It 
 has been (1862) well restored (W. 
 White, arch.). Most of the windows 
 are filled with memorial stained 
 glass by WUlemcnt and others. The 
 carved oaken seats are exact copies 
 of those found in the ch. An old 
 silver-gilt chalice (16th centy.) is 
 among the plate. There are monu- 
 ments to Richard Carow, author of 
 the ‘Survey of Cornwall,’ d. 1620 
 (he was one of the original members 
 of the Society of Antiquaries — among 
 whom were Camden, Stow, and Spel- 
 man) ; a Brass for Margery Arundell, 
 1420, said to Ik* the foundress of the 
 ch. ; and a tablet to Captain Graves, 
 R.N., who played a gallant part in 
 the attack on St. Jago in the reign of 
 George II. From Antony Church 
 the traveller should descend to St. 
 John s (j m.) in a lovely sheltered 
 nook, where is an ancient church 
 with Norman tower. The terrace 
 walk l>etween Antony and St. John’s 
 commands noble views of Plymouth.] 
 
 From St. Germans the rly. curves 
 inland, passing 1 . Catchfrench (F. 
 Glanville, Esq.), (Catchfrench, 
 “Chasse franc he,” an old Norm. 
 “ freewarren ”), and an ancieut en- 
 trenchment called Blackadon Rings; 
 and rt. an entrenchment on Padder- 
 bury top. The woods of Coldrmick (C. 
 Trelawny, Esq.) are then passed rt. 
 
 1 4 J m. Menheniot Stat. (The 
 village is l£ m. rt.) Here is Poole 
 Court, a long - deserted mansion 
 of the TrelaMnys, which served 
 for many years as the poorhouse. 
 The ch. possesses an ancient spire, of 
 which there are few in the county. 
 Bishop TrelaM ny, the hero of the 
 ballad “And shall Trelawny die?” 
 was christened here. 
 
 1. of the station is the eminence 
 of Clicker Tor f and its jagged rocks 
 protruding from the fern and turf. 
 It is geologically remarkable for 
 being of serpentine. On each side 
 of the tor the rly. crosses a valley by 
 a lofty viaduct, and on the Plymouth 
 side by the most ornamental on the 
 whole line. It is a beautiful piece of 
 woodwork, and a most picturesque 
 object in connection with the richly 
 wooded valley it spans. 3 m. beyond 
 we reach 
 
 18 m. Liskcardy anciently Liskerret, 
 i.c. court on an eminence (the prefix 
 Lcs or Lis — Welsh Lhys — indicated 
 that the place was the abode of a 
 prince or chieftain, as Lestormel, 
 Lespryn, Lestwdthiel, vulgo Ites- 
 tormel, Respryn, and Lostwithiel) 
 (Inns: Webb’s Hotel; Bell Hotel; 
 Commercial Hotel), situated in an 
 elevated but rich and well-culti- 
 vated country (pop. 4689). The 
 monuments of antiquity in the neigh- 
 liourhood are the objects of interest; 
 the town itself contains nothing 
 worth notice. At its eastern end 
 is the site of a castle which gave 
 Liskeard its ancient name. This 
 is said to have been built by Richard, 
 King of the Romans, and it was cer- 
 I tainly attached to the Duchy. The 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 23 . — Liskeard : Excursions. 
 
 site is now laiil out as a public walk, 
 and has, in the centre, a small mean 
 building, now serving as a police 
 station, but formerly a grammar- 
 school, in which the learned Dean 
 Prideaux and Dr. Wolcott,, better 
 known as Peter Pindar, received the 
 rudiments of their education. A walk 
 leads from this spot over fields which 
 were once the castle park, and where a 
 good view is obtained of the surround- 
 ing country, particularly of Caradon 
 (i.e. rocky down) Hill (alt. 1208 ft.), 
 cavernous with mines, and bounding 
 the wild district of the Bodmin Moors. 
 In 1643 a battle was fought on Brad- 
 doc Down, between Liskeard and 
 Lostwithiel, in which Ruthen, the go- 
 vernor of Plymouth, was defeated by 
 the royalists under Sir Ralph Hopton, 
 who, without the loss of an officer, 
 took the enemy’s cannon and colours 
 and 1250 prisoners. Hopton then 
 established his quarters in Liskeard, 
 which in 1644 and 45 was honoured 
 by the presence of Charles I. In 
 1 620 the town was represented by Sir 
 Edward Coke, the great lawyer, and 
 in 1775 by Gibbon the historian. 
 
 The stranger will find the following 
 objects and excursions in this neigh- 
 bourhood very interesting ; and if a 
 botanist, may look for Anchusa semper - 
 virens, or evergreen alkanet , a rare plant, 
 on heaps of rubbish in the lanes. 
 
 (a) A t calk toLooc , along the towing- 
 path of the canal, 9 m., which passes 
 down a valley very prettily wooded. 
 The canal begins at Moorswater , 1| 
 m. W„ and there communicates with 
 a railway, which runs a circuitous 
 and inclined course of 6£ m. to the 
 Coradon Copper Mines, and of 8^- to 
 the granite-quarries of the Cheese- 
 irritig. Persons are allowed to walk 
 along the rail, but it is a round- 
 about way of reaching the moor. 
 'Powards evening the produce of 
 the mines and quarries is brought 
 down to Moorswater in detached 
 trucks, which follow one another 
 
 345 
 
 in succession, under the control of 
 breaksmen, and are drawn back the 
 next day by horses. Moorswater 
 valley is spanned by one of the 
 longest and loftiest of the rly. via- 
 ducts, 146 ft. in height, and passing 
 from hill to hill on tapering piers of 
 stone and timber one-third of the 
 height. At Moorswater there is a 
 granite-cutting establishment belong- 
 ing to the Cheesewring* Company, 
 where the stone is carved by hand 
 and polished by steam-power. 
 
 The first object of interest on this 
 walk is St. Keyne 1 s Well (£ m. E. of 
 the interesting ch. (Dec. and Perp.) 
 of the same name, which is 2j in. 
 on the road to W. Looe), a spring 
 of rare virtues in the belief of the 
 country people. It is covered in by 
 masonry, upon the top of which 
 formerly grew five large trees, a 
 Cornish elm, an oak, and three an- 
 tique ash-trees, on so narrow a space 
 that it is difficult to imagine how the 
 roots could have been accommodated. 
 There now remain only two of these 
 trees, the elm (which is large and 
 fine) and one of the ash-trees. Ac- 
 cording to the legend, St.. Keyne 
 (whose legend calls her the aunt 
 of St. David of Wales) presented 
 this well to the inhab. in return 
 for the ch. which they had dedi- 
 cated to her ; and it is said to 
 share with St. Michael 1 s Chair at the 
 Mount the marvellous property of 
 confirming the ascendancy of either 
 husband or wife, who, the first after 
 marriage, can obtain a draught of 
 water from the spring, or be seated 
 in the chair. This mystical well is 
 the subject of a ballad by Southey, 
 which concludes with the following 
 lines : — 
 
 “ I hasten’d as soon as the wedding was 
 o’er. 
 
 And left m3' good wife in the porch, 
 
 Blit i’ faith she had been far wiser than I, 
 For she took a bottle to church.” 
 
 At Didoc , 2 m. beyond the village 
 of St. Keyne, on a farm opposite the 
 ch., and in a field, a gun-shot l. of 
 Q 3 
 
346 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 the road, are the remains of an an- 
 cient circle of large upright stones, 
 about 30 ft. in diameter. The mo- 
 nument, however, is in a very mu- 
 tilated condition. A hedge bisects 
 it, one stone lies prostrate in the 
 ditch, five only stand upright, and 
 three appear to be wanting to com- 
 plete the circle. The stones, which 
 ar6 rough and unhewn, are princi- 
 pally composed of white quartz, and 
 one is about 9 ft. in height. Duloe 
 Church has (1862) been almost rebuilt 
 by the rector, assisted by the Rev. 
 Thomas Bewes, who is owner of 
 much land in the parish. Melittis 
 melisophyllum (Cornish balm) is 
 found in this and the neighbouring 
 parishes. Between Duloe and the 
 village of Sandplace (on the canal) is 
 a celebrated spring, sacred to St. 
 Cuby (St. Cuby is believed to be 
 St. Cuthbert ), and commonly called 
 St. Kiby’s Well. Dr. Scott, the late 
 master of Balliol College, was for 
 some years rector of Duloe, and 
 there, we understand, the sheets of 
 the Greek Lexicon, so well known 
 as “Liddell and Scott” were re- 
 vised. In the parish is the South 
 Herodsfoot (silver-lead) mine. (For 
 the excursion below this point, and 
 for Looe itself, see Rte. 24.) 
 
 (b) Clicker Tor , 3 m. on the high 
 road to St. Germans, is a rugged and 
 picturesque eminence known to the 
 geologist as consisting of dark-green 
 serpentine , which is traversed by veins 
 of amianthoid asbestus. The white 
 Cornish heath, Erica vagans , which 
 appears confined to a soil of ser- 
 pentine, is said to have been found 
 on the hill, but is not here now. 
 
 (c) N. of Liskeard are many objects 
 of curiosity which a person intending 
 to return to Liskeard may most con- 
 veniently visit in the following or- 
 der -.—The Caradon Mines, Trevethy 
 Stone, Cheesewring, Sharpitor, Kil- 
 marth Tor, Cheesewring again, 
 Hurlers, Half Stone, St. Cleer. 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 The Caradon Copper Mines , at pre- 
 sent yielding a considerable return, 
 are excavated in solid granite, and 
 situated at the foot of Caradon Hill 
 (alt. 1 208 ft.), which should be as- 
 cended for the view. * 
 
 Trevethy Stone , or the Grave-house 
 (Corn. Tr e-bedd or vedd -) about 1 m. 
 E.N.E. of St. Cleer ch., is a crom- 
 lech consisting of a slab 14 ft. 3 in. 
 in length by 9 ft. in breadth, sup- 
 ported in a slanting position by C 
 upright stones, forming a kistvaen, 
 or stone chest, and raised upon a 
 tumulus. Another block has fallen 
 within, so that a person can enter 
 the enclosure, which is now used as 
 a tool-house by the neighbouring 
 cottagers. The height from the 
 ground to the upper point of the table- 
 stone, near which point is a small cir- 
 cular hole, is 13 ft. 6 in. This hole is 
 beyond (outside) the actual kistvaen. 
 At the base of one of the upright stones 
 is a square aperture, from which the 
 stone appears to have been cut to 
 form an entrance. The Trevethy 
 Stone is one of the largest cromlechs 
 existing in Cornwall, and derives ad- 
 ditional interest from its elevated 
 position, which commands the coun- 
 try for many miles. It displays also 
 some remarkable features which have 
 been found in certain of these crom- 
 lechs elsewhere. The round hole 
 piercing the covering block occurs 
 (but differently placed, and opening 
 to the interior of the structure) in 
 large cromlechs or “dolmens” at 
 Trie, department of Oise, France, 
 and at Grandmont, in Bas- Languedoc. 
 3 holes pierce the side of one of the 
 stones in the remarkable chambered 
 cromlech at Gavr Innis, in Brittany. 
 Holed dolmens or cromlechs have 
 been found in Circassia ; and there 
 are others at Rajunkoloor, in the 
 province of Sholapore. The aperture 
 for entrance is also found in Brittany, 
 Wales, and elsewhere. If the Tre- 
 vethy stone is raised on a true tumu- 
 lus, the deposit was probably made 
 
347 
 
 Cornwall. Route 23 . — Trevethy Stone — Cheesewring. 
 
 in that, and the cromlech itself was 
 only a monument or cenotaph. Such 
 a 44 simulated kist ” occurs frequently 
 in the East, and is found in both 
 Northern and Southern Europe. 
 This, and the holed stone, have been 
 regarded as the most direct evidence 
 of similarity between the East and 
 West in the design and construc- 
 tion of these monuments. The pur- 
 pose of the hole it would be idle 
 to guess at. The famous holed 
 stone at Stennis, in Orkney, with its 
 44 promise of Odin,” of which Sir 
 W. Scott has made good use in the 
 4 Pirate/ and the holed stone, the 
 44 Men-an-tol,” near Lanyon (see 
 Rte. 29), may be compared. Many 
 of the holed dolmens are figured in 
 Eergusson’s 4 Rude-Stone Monu- 
 ments.’ A short distance W. of the 
 cromlech the rly. crosses the foot of 
 a down, which was formerly covered 
 with blocks of snow-white quartz, 
 of which many still remain. 
 
 Cheesewring . This remarkable ob- 
 ject consists of tabular blocks of gra- 
 nite heaped one upon the other after 
 the manner of cheeses to the height of 
 24 ft., but has probably acquired its 
 name from its supposed resemblance 
 to the press employed in the prepar- 
 ation of cider, in squeezing out the 
 liquor from the cheese or pounded 
 apples. It derives its extraordi- 
 nary appearance from the circum- 
 stance of the stones at the base being 
 less than half the size of those they 
 support, which are 10 and 12 ft. 
 in diameter. Hence the shape of 
 the pile is that of a huge fungus, 
 with a stalk so slenderly proportioned 
 for the weight of the head, that the 
 spectator will find it hard to divest 
 himself of the idea of its instability. 
 (There is not the slightest foundation 
 for the assumption that the Cheese- 
 wring, or similar piles of rock, such 
 as Bowerman’s Nose on Dartmoor, or 
 those on Ripon moor in Yorkshire, 
 ever served as 44 rock idols.” The 
 suggestion seems to be due originally 
 
 to Borlase.) A few years ago it was un- 
 fortunately discovered that the granite 
 which formed the substance of this 
 hill was of a superior quality ; a 
 railway was conducted to the spot, 
 buildings were erected, and the de- 
 structive quarryman is now at work 
 within a few feet of the Cheesewring 
 itself. By a lease recently granted 
 by the Duchy, bounds have been set 
 to the quarry, in order that this far- 
 famed curiosity should escape the 
 general havoc ; but the ground about 
 it is covered with rubbish, and the 
 neighbouring rocks, which add so 
 much to the effect of the scene, are 
 daily diminishing in their numbers. 
 The eminence commands an imposing 
 prospect. N. and S. two seas form the 
 horizon, and N.W. Brown Willy lifts 
 his head, and offers a landmark to 
 those wishing to proceed to the J amaica 
 Inn. On a clear day you may see 
 across Devonshire from Hartland to 
 Plymouth, and both Dartmoor and 
 Exmoor enter into the view. About 
 the middle of the last century a rock 
 near the Cheesewring was the retreat 
 of a very singular character — one 
 Daniel Gurnb — who, locally known 
 as the Mountain Philosopher, was 
 born of poor parents in the parish of 
 Lezant, and brought up as a stone- 
 cutter. As a mere boy he showed 
 a fondness for books, and at a more 
 advanced age directed his studies to 
 mathematics and astronomy, and was 
 oftener seen mapping the stars upon 
 the granite than labouring at his 
 vocation. He abandoned all idea 
 of making a fortune by stone-cutting, 
 and taxed his ingenuity for the re- 
 duction of his expenses, which pressed 
 sorely on his time to the exclusion 
 of his favourite pursuit. With this 
 object he searched upon the moor 
 for a rock which might be con- 
 verted into a house, and, finding a 
 mass of granite in the vicinity of the 
 Cheesewring well adapted to his 
 purpose, he excavated the ground 
 beneath it, and formed a rude dwell- 
 ing, in which, with his wife and 
 
348 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 family, he lived rent and tax-free 
 for many years. As a result of his 
 studies, he left the slab, which had 
 served him for a roof, scored with 
 diagrams illustrative of some of the 
 most difficult problems of Euclid. 
 His cavern, situated near the foot of 
 the hill, was long preserved from 
 destruction as Gumb's Hocks. The 
 roof had fallen, but the “bedroom,” 
 bearing the date 1735, and the stone 
 from which the philosopher was ac- 
 customed to star-gaze, were pointed 
 out. Unfortunately they have now 
 altogether disappeared before the 
 march of those barbarians known as 
 quarry men. 
 
 Several rocky tors are situated in 
 this neighbourhood. Sharpitor , or 
 
 Sharp Point Tor (1200 ft.), rises in 
 a beautiful cone immediately N. of 
 the Cheesewring, and bears upon 
 its western slope the remains of 
 those ancient enclosures called hut 
 circles , and lines of stones. 
 
 Kilmarth (1277 ft.), directly N. 
 by W. of Sharpitor, and the grandest 
 of the group, stretches E. and W. 
 in a ridge which is nearly precipi- 
 tous on its N. flank. The granite 
 heaped upon this hill presents the 
 most fantastic forms, and the soli- 
 tude of the spot is as yet undis- 
 turbed. A pile of rocks, starting 
 upward from the crest and W. of the 
 summit, presents the appearance of 
 a leaning tower, the upper surface 
 outlying the base. 2 other hills, 
 rising N. of Kilmarth, will strike the 
 attention by the grandeur of their 
 irregular outline. These are Hawk's 
 Tor (the easternmost) and Trewartha 
 Tor (1050 ft.). Another of this group 
 of tors is called King Arthur’s Bed 
 ( both , i.e. grave?). Some hut circles, 
 remains of avenues , lines of stones, and 
 vestiges of ancient stream-works, 
 may be found between Kilmarth and 
 the Jamaica Inn. 
 
 About 1 m. S. of the Cheesewring 
 are The Ilurlers, formerly three large 
 intersecting circles, two of which 
 
 have their centres in a line — that of 
 the 3rd, or southernmost, is about 
 30 ft. beyond the others. They are of 
 the respective minor diameters (they 
 are slightly elliptical) of 1 15 ft. 0 in., 
 139 ft. and 100 ft. The circles are 
 named in accordance with a tra- 
 dition that they were once men who, 
 amusing themselves by hurling on 
 the Sabbath, were transformed into 
 stone. Hals, a writer on Cornish an- 
 tiquities, adverting to this legend, 
 quaintly remarks, “ Did but the ball 
 which these hurlers used when flesh 
 and blood appear directly over them 
 immovably pendent in the air, one 
 might be apt to credit some little of 
 the tale ; but as the case is, I can 
 scarcely help thinking but the pre- 
 sent stones were always stones, and 
 will to the world’s end continue so, 
 unless they will be dt the pains to 
 pulverize them.” It is to be re- 
 gretted that the possibility of their 
 conversion has been fully demon- 
 strated, and that many of these un- 
 fortunate hurlers have been long 
 since reduced to their original dust, 
 or been cut in twain to serve the 
 purposes of the farmer. The Nor- 
 thern circle consists at present of 13 
 stones, 6 of which remain erect ; the 
 middle circle has 13 stones remaining, 
 10 being erect; and the southern 
 circle has 8 stones left, of which all 
 but 2 are prostrate. Two large 
 stones, perhaps the remains of an 
 avenue, stand at some distance W. 
 of the circles. 
 
 The stone commonly called the 
 Other Half Stone, in a field about J of a 
 m. S.S.W. of St. Cleer Church, is a 
 granite shaft of a cross with a broken 
 mortice on the top, in which the 
 cross was inserted : it is covered with 
 the interlacing knot-work common 
 in Cornwall and Ireland. The Half 
 Stone is the base of this or some other 
 cross ; it consists of a square stone 
 with a very large mortice in the top 
 with Doniert plainly legible. What 
 follows is rather conjectural, but it 
 has been read Doniert rogavit jnv 
 
Cornwall. Route 23. — Well of St. Cleer — St. Neat's Church. ,°>49 
 
 anirna. Doniert, according to Carew, 
 is Dungarth, son of Caradoc king 
 of Cornwall ; drowned a.d. 872. 
 This occupies the whole of one 
 side ; on the other are 4 panels, 
 each containing an excellent speci- 
 men of the interchanged knot. More 
 recently, in consequence of the fact 
 that tradition makes mention of a 
 sepulchral chamber beneath these 
 stones, a deputation from the Ply- 
 mouth branch of the Exeter Dioces. 
 Archit. Soc. visited the spot, and, on 
 making extensive excavations, dis- 
 covered a cruciform chamber, in a 
 good state of preservation, but con- 
 taining no relics. 
 
 The Well of St. Cleer , the bap- 
 tistery, or chapel, by which it was 
 enclosed, and an ancient cross, about 
 9 ft. high, form a group by the 
 road - side, 100 yards below the 
 church; — “memorials,” says the 
 author of * Notes in Cornwall/ “ of 
 the innocent and revered custom 
 of the ancient Church to connect 
 close together the beauty of Nature 
 and the beauty of Religion by 
 such means as the consecration of 
 a spring or the erection of a road- 
 side cross.” The chapel was de- 
 stroyed by fanatics in the civil war, 
 but appears to have been similar in 
 size and construction to that which 
 now stands by Dupath Well near Cal- 
 lington (Rte. 25). It was restored, 
 1864, as a memorial of the Rev. John 
 dope, 67 years vicar of St. Cleer, by 
 his grandchildren. The well is said 
 to have been once used as a bows- 
 senincj , or ducking pool, for the cure of 
 mad people. 
 
 St. Cleer, 2 m. N. of Liskeard, is 
 a busy place (Pop. 3931) situated 
 in a wild mining district at the foot 
 of the moors. The road from Lis- 
 keard crosses St. Cleer Bourn (alt. 
 753 ft.), a stony height command- 
 ing a fine view, and then enters the 
 church-town of St. Cleer, so called 
 after the founder of the order of 
 Poor Clares, out of Cornwall known 
 
 as St. Clare. The stranger will notice 
 the tower of the ch. 97 ft. high, and, 
 on the N. side of the building, a 
 Norman doorway with zigzag mould- 
 ing, now walled up. 
 
 ( d ) Those who are fond of wild 
 scenery will derive much pleasure 
 from a walk from Liskeard, by the 
 Jamaica Inn and Brown Willy, to 
 Camelford, from which they can visit 
 Tintagel, on the N. coast (Rte. 22). 
 
 Golytha Bock, in the bed of a stream, 
 \ m. below Dreynes Bridge (on the 
 road to the Jamaica Inn), originating 
 3 small but pleasing falls, is well 
 worthy of a visit. The river Dreynes ' 
 pursues its course from the moors 
 through this beautiful wild valley 
 till it unites below the rly. at “ Two 
 Waters foot” with the S. Neot river. 
 The two united form the Fowey river. 
 It is to be hoped that collectors (mis- 
 named botanists) will not wantonly 
 destroy the ferns and other wild 
 plants they may find, as they are too 
 much in the habit of doing. The 
 name Golytha, “ obstruction,” is the 
 same as the Welsh “ golydda,” and 
 applied to these rocks it is perfectly 
 significant. 
 
 (e) The Perp. Church of St. Neot, 
 
 about 4 m. N.W. of Liskeard, has been 
 long celebrated for its stained glass 
 windows. They were constructed at 
 different periods between 1400 and 
 1532, and restored in 1829 by the 
 Rev. R. G. Grylls, the patron of the 
 living, after exposure to neglect and 
 spoliation for 300 years. The work 
 is creditable, although completed be- 
 fore the days of true restoration : it 
 has been executed with great care and 
 expense. The windows are known as 
 St. George’s, St. Neot’s, the Young 
 Woman’s, the Wives’, the Harris, the 
 Callawaye, the Tubbe, the Chancel, 
 the Creation, the Noah, the Borlase, 
 the Motton, the Redemption, the 
 Acts, and the Armorial. In St. 
 
 | George’s are depicted the surprising 
 adventures of our patron saint, viz. : — 
 
350 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 fighting the Gauls — killing the dra- 
 gon — receiving his arms from the 
 Virgin — taken prisoner by the Gauls 
 — restored to life by the Virgin — 
 ridden jnro* by the king's son — torn 
 to pieces with iron rakes — boiled in 
 lead — dragged by wild horses — and, 
 finally, beheaded. In St. Neot’s 
 window we find incidents of a less stir- 
 ring but as marvellous a description, 
 for the legend of St. Neot is one of the 
 most fanciful in the whole calendar of 
 saints. He is said by some to have 
 been the uncle of King Alfred, and by 
 others a poor shepherd, who first dis- 
 tinguished himself by impounding in 
 a ring of moor-stone some obstinate 
 crows which he had been set to scare 
 from a corn-field. This “ pound ” is 
 still shown on Gonzion Down, near the 
 ch. ; it is a square earthen fort. So re- 
 markable a feat at once brought him 
 into notice, and to establish his fame 
 he retired from the world and became 
 a hermit. A belief soon spread that 
 he was specially favoured by Heaven 
 and invested with a strange power 
 over man and beast. Many are the 
 wild tales of his miraculous per- 
 formances — as of his “ holy well/' 
 which an angel stocked with fish as 
 food for St. Neot, but on condition 
 that he took but one for his daily 
 meal. The stock consisted but of 
 two, but of two for ever, like a guinea 
 in a fairy purse. It happened, how- 
 ever, that the saint fell sick and 
 became dainty in his appetite ; and 
 his servant, Barius by name, in his 
 eagerness to please his master, cooked 
 the two, boiling the one and broiling 
 the other. Great was the consterna- 
 tion of St. Neot, whom for a moment 
 the sight had completely over- 
 whelmed ; but, recovering his pre- 
 sence of mind, he ordered the fish to 
 be thrown back into the spring, and 
 falling on his knees most humbly 
 sought forgiveness. The servant re- 
 turned, declaring that the fish were 
 alive and sporting in the water, and 
 when the proper meal had been pre- 
 pared, the saint on tasting it was in- 
 
 stantly restored to health. (St. Co- 
 rentin in Brittany had but one fish, 
 from which he took a small slice 
 daily, and then replaced it in the 
 well.) At another time St. Neot was 
 praying at this well, when a hunted 
 deer sought protection by his side. On 
 the arrival of the dogs the saint re- 
 proved them, and, behold ! they 
 crouched at his feet, whilst the hunts- 
 man, affected by the miracle, re- 
 nounced the world and hung up his 
 bugle-horn in the cloister. Again, 
 the oxen belonging to the saint had 
 been stolen, and wild deer came of 
 their own accord to replace them. 
 When the thieves beheld St. Neot 
 ploughing with his stags they were 
 conscience-stricken and returned what 
 they had stolen. Such stories as these 
 are represented in the window, and 
 many more may be gathered from the 
 country-people, who affirm that the 
 ch. was built by night, and the mate- 
 rials brought together by teams of 2 
 deer and 1 hare. They also show in 
 the churchyard the stone on which 
 the saint used to stand to throw the 
 key into the keyhole, which had 
 been accidentally placed too high. 
 (St. Neot was of small stature, and 
 either this lock or another was in 
 the habit of descending, so that his 
 hand could reach it.) The Young 
 Woman’s window dates from 1529, 
 and was the gift of the village 
 maidens. It contains the figures of 
 St. Patrick, St. Clara, St. Mancus, 
 and St. Brechan — the last a Welsh b 
 king, whose 24 sons were all mis-' 
 sionaries in Cornwall. In other 
 windows are represented various sub- 
 jects from the Old Testament, and 
 in one the 9 grades of the angelic 
 hierarchy. (The work and drawing 
 in all these windows is very rough, 
 but a rich general effect is produced. 
 They have all been fully described 
 by the vicar, the Rev. H. Grylls, 
 in his ‘ Descriptive Sketch of the 
 Windows of St. Neot’s,’ published 
 by Parker in 1854.) The present 
 ch. (except the tower) is of Perp. 
 
Cornwall. Route 23. — St. Neotfs Well — Doublebois. 
 
 351 
 
 architecture, dating from the reign 
 of Edw. IV., 1480. In a former 
 building had been deposited the re- 
 mains of St. Neot, which in 974 
 were carried away by the founders 
 of Eynesbury Abbey, in Hunting- 
 donshire. An arm, however, was 
 left behind, and this was long pre- 
 served in a stone casket, which may 
 still be seen in the N. aisle. Above 
 it is an inscription supposed to have 
 been written about the time of the 
 Reformation. The ch., like many 
 others in Cornwall, has a K. Charles 
 letter. (See Introd.) The tower of 
 this ch., erected in the beginning of the 
 14th centy., is exceedingly beautiful, 
 and well worthy of a careful examina- 
 tion, as good towers of that date are 
 uncommon. The granite groining of 
 the porch-roof is worth notice, and 
 there is some stained glass in the 
 window of the parvise above. Against 
 the S. wall of the ch. is a fine shaft of 
 a cross, covered with interlacing knot- 
 work (it should be restored to its old 
 situation by the churchyard gate). 
 St. Neot’s Well , in a' meadow near, 
 was arched over in granite by the 
 late General Carlyon. It was in this 
 well that he stood up to his chin daily, 
 and chanted the Psalter through- 
 out. The old name of the parish 
 was Neotstow, and it is said to have 
 been in a ch. on this site that King 
 Alfred was praying (during a hunting 
 expedition into Cornwall) when a 
 change took place in his life. (See 
 Asser.) The burial-ground contains 
 the tomb of one Robins, who be- 
 queathed a sum of money to the 
 poor of this parish on a condition re- 
 corded on the stone : — 
 
 “ If this stone be not kept in repair, 
 
 The legacy devolves unto the heir.” 
 
 About 2 m. W. of St. Neot, in the 
 parish of W arleggan, is Treveddoe tin 
 stream-work , which is worth seeing, 
 and noticed in Rte. 21. Warleggan 
 Church is poor, but the parsonage 
 garden is indeed beautiful. Tren- 
 goffe {i. e . strong stream) in this 
 
 parish well shows the favourite situa- 
 tion for an old manor-house of 16th 
 centy. There is a curious avenue of 
 sycamores. Between Liskeard and 
 Lostwithiel the botanist may observe, 
 on heathery ground, Viola lactea, the 
 cream-coloured violet , a rare plant, also 
 found in the neighbourhood of Tun- 
 bridge Wells, and fond of the pure air 
 of the hills. 
 
 The old turnpike-road from Lis- 
 keard to Lostwithiel (llj m.) runs 
 over a bleak and elevated country, 
 commanding extensive views. Num- 
 bers of Celtic barrows meet the eye ; 
 and above Largin wood a square 
 redoubt, a relic of the fight of Brad- 
 doc Down (see post). 
 
 The Ely., leaving Liskeard, crosses 
 the valley of the Looe river at Moors- 
 water by a lofty viaduct (see ante). 
 3 m. it reaches the little stat. of 
 
 21 m. Doublebois , where it runs 
 parallel to the old turnpike, but on 
 the side of the hill above, and cross- 
 ing the spurs of the hill by viaducts, 
 the highest of which is 1 5 1 ft. The 
 scenery all along this valley is very 
 pretty. The junction of the Dreynes 
 river with that of St. Neot is seen 
 rt. ; and soon after passing Doublebois 
 station the little manor-house of Pen- 
 gelley (head of the grove), called 
 Treverbyn Vean (Col. C. Somers 
 Cocks), to which is attached a curi- 
 ous manorial service. The lord of 
 the manor has to present a grey 
 cloak ( cappa grisea) to the Duke of 
 Cornwall on his crossing the border 
 of the county from Devonshire. This 
 holding was granted to the Lord 
 de Moleyn in 1543. The house of 
 Treverbyn is the creation of its 
 present owner. The dining-room 
 is panelled with cedar brought from 
 Bermuda by Admiral Boscawen ; 
 and the timber roofs of the entrance 
 hall (with Minstrels’ Gallery), dining 
 and drawing-rooms, were made from 
 the teak of the ‘ Orinoco/ which took 
 
352 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 Col. Cocks’ battalion of the Cold- 
 streams to the East in 1854. There 
 is some very good tapestry in the 
 drawing-room, which also contains a 
 chimney-piece with the legend of St. 
 Neot, designed by W. Burges, and 
 displayed in the Exhibition of 1862. 
 The collection of rhododendrons in 
 the grounds is unusually large. 
 
 27 m. Bodmin Road stat. at Glynn 
 Bridge (the town is 4 m. distant ; an 
 omnibus meets every train). 1. is 
 Braddoc Down, where the Parliamen- 
 tarians were defeated by Hopton in 
 1643. ( Braddoc , Brit. “ treachery ,” 
 
 lias been corrupted into Broadoak.) 
 Probably the name of Treachery was 
 given for some deed of which the 
 numerous barrows or tumuli are the 
 existing records, rt. is Largin Castle 
 (see ante). 2 m. S. is Bury Down , 
 crowned by a circular entrenchment 
 (possibly connected with the rampart 
 called the Giant’s Hedge — see Kte. 
 24). 
 
 Bodmin (Inns: Oliver’s Royal 
 
 Hotel ; Gatty’s Town Arms ; — pop. 
 of town, 3226) is situated nearly in 
 the centre of the county, about 12 
 m. from the Bristol and English 
 Channels. Here are held the sessions 
 and assizes. The borough returned 
 2 members to Parliament until 1868, 
 when it lost one. 
 
 Bodmin (the name has been va- 
 riously explained. It is usually 
 held to be Bod-manach , the town of 
 the monks. Sir J. Maclean suggests 
 Bod-mynydd , the dwelling under the 
 hills), which now consists chiefly of 
 one street, about 1 m. long, was in 
 early times the largest town in Corn- 
 wall, although it seems always to 
 have been regarded as somewhat re- 
 mote and difficult of approach, and 
 an old saw runs u out of the world 
 and into Bodmin.” It was famous 
 for its Priory , which before the Con- 
 quest was a house of Benedictine 
 monks, and is said to have been 
 founded by Athelstan. Its early 
 
 history is however very uncertain, 
 but it seems probable that the foun- 
 dation, originally British, was fa- 
 voured and privileged by English 
 kings, and that the monastery, while 
 it was still British, was in full inter- 
 course, times of war excepted, with 
 the Saxon Church. The legend 
 asserts that a certain hermit named 
 Guron, chose the place of his abode 
 beside a flowing spring, on the site 
 where the priory afterwards arose. 
 There he was joined by St. Petrock and 
 some others ; and thus arose the mo- 
 nastery ( Bod-manach , if that be the 
 true explanation of the name of Bod- 
 min). The ch. possessed the body of 
 its patron, St. Petrock, who is said to 
 have been a native of Wales educated 
 in Ireland, to have crossed to Padstow 
 in 518, and to have settled in Bod- 
 min, where he died in 564. 7 churches 
 in Devonshire and 4 in Cornwall are 
 dedicated in his honour. It was 
 usual to make manumissions of serfs 
 before the altar of St. Petrock ; and 
 the priory possessed a copy of the 
 Gospels written in the 9th centy., at 
 the end of which are 46 entries of 
 such manumissions, — all before the 
 Conquest (between 941-1043). (This 
 MS. is now in the Brit. Mus.) In 
 994 iEthelred granted the monas- 
 tery of St. Petrock’ s to the Bishops 
 of Cornwall, whose original seat 
 seems to have been St. Germans. 
 This, however, is doubtful. Bod- 
 min, called in the A.-S. Chron. St. 
 Petroc’s-stowe, was ravaged by the 
 Northmen in 981 ; and it has been 
 asserted that in consequence of this 
 destruction the place of the see was 
 removed to St. Germans. It would 
 seem at any rate that from this time 
 until the establishment of the united 
 sees of Devon and Cornwall at Exe- 
 ter the place of the Cornish see was 
 indifferently St. Germans and Bod- . 
 min. (See Pedlar’s ‘ A.-S. Episco- 
 pate of Cornwall.’ Great efforts — - 
 the success of which is earnestly 
 to be desired — have recently been 
 made to re-establish the Cornish 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 23 . — Bodmin . 
 
 353 
 
 see, and to fix it once more at 
 Bodmin). A large portion of the 
 lands belonging to the priory were 
 alienated at the time of the Norman 
 Conquest. These passed into the 
 hands of Robert of Mortain, half- 
 brother of the Conqueror, in whose 
 favour the ch. of St. Germans was 
 also despoiled, and to whom indeed 
 nearly the whole of Cornwall was 
 granted. (See Introd ., History, § vii.). 
 The priory was refounded (a measure 
 rendered necessary from these spolia- 
 tions) by William Warelwast, Bp. 
 of Exeter (1107-1136), and for 
 Augustinian canons. This house 
 flourished until the Dissolution, when 
 its income was 289Z. The site of the 
 priory was then sold for 100Z. to 
 Thomas Sternhold, the well-known 
 versifier of the Psalms. It has since 
 passed through many hands. The 
 site of the domestic buildings (S. 
 of the ch.) is marked by the present 
 priory-house (Lieut. -Col. W. Raleigh 
 Gilbert), in the garden of which are 
 many fragments of capitals and co- 
 lumns dating from the 13th centy., 
 and a few of early Trans, character. 
 
 The existing parish Church was (ac- 
 cording to Dr. Oliver) also that of 
 the priory, the choir serving for the 
 convent, the nave for the parishioners. 
 (This is not quite certain, but seems 
 most probable.) It is the largest ch. 
 in Cornwall, and was rebuilt between 
 the years 1469-1472, with the ex- 
 ception of the tower and some part 
 of the choir, which are slightly 
 earlier. The tower was capped by 
 a spire 150 ft. high, destroyed by 
 lightning in 1699. There is a S. 
 porch and parvise. The Norm, font 
 (fine) should be noticed, and the 
 tomb of Prior Vivian (died 1533) 
 at the end of the N. aisle, where it 
 was placed in 1819. This prior was 
 titular Bishop of Megara, and acted 
 as suffragan to the see of Exeter from 
 1517 until his] death. The effigy re- 
 presents him fully vested. Near the 
 font is a pillar piscina, removed from 
 
 the chancel, and now serving as an 
 alms-box. An ugly transparency 
 serves for an E. window. The W. 
 window was filled with stained glass 
 in 1868, as a memorial of the late 
 vicar, the Rev. J. Wallis. Ce- 
 mented into a shallow framework 
 are the fragments of a curiously in- 
 scribed stone slab, which has been 
 considered to be of great antiquity, 
 but is now shown to be not earlier 
 than 1557. Remark also, in the N. 
 chancel arch, a slab with figures of 
 the 2 wives of Richard Durant, d. 
 1632, with their 20 children. The 
 verses should be read, beginning — 
 
 “During their lives had Durant wives 
 Jowdy and Kathren namde, 
 
 Both feared God and eke his rodd, so well 
 their lifes they framde.” 
 
 The chapel at the back of the high 
 altar, in which was (probably) the 
 shrine of St. Petrock, was destroyed 
 in 1776. The ch. has an excellent 
 peal of bells and chimes, which play 
 an old Flemish air at the hours of 
 4, 8, and 12. 
 
 (One Jasper Wood, vicar of Bod- 
 min (1679-1716), conceived himself 
 to be bewitched by a mysterious 
 paper, was carried off to a “desert 
 kind of bottom, environed with 
 wood/’ and there, in the midst of a 
 “ sabbat ” of wizards and witches, 
 was freed by his guardian angel in 
 the shape of a boy about 8 years old. 
 A curious “broadside,” telling the 
 story, and drawn up by Francis 
 Blight, who had been mayor of Bod- 
 min, is in the Brit. Mus., and will 
 be found in the Appendix to Sir John 
 Maclean’s 4 Bodmin .” — beanery of 
 Trigg Minor .) 
 
 In the keeping of the Town Clerk 
 (to whom application must be made 
 for seeing it) is a very remarkable 
 irory casket , which there is reason to 
 believe served for some time as a re- 
 liquary, in which the bones of St. 
 Petrock were enclosed. In the year 
 1177 one of the canons of the priory 
 stole the relics, and fled with them 
 to the abbey of St. Meen (Mevenni) 
 
354 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . Sect. II. 
 
 in Brittany. The prior of Bodmin 
 appealed in person to Henry II., who 
 ordered Roland of Dinan, justiciar 
 of Brittany, to obtain restitution of 
 the relics. He threatened to storm 
 the abbey. The bones of St. Petrock 
 were restored ; and Prior Roger 
 brought back his treasure in an ivory 
 shrine. This is probably the “ theca 
 eburnea ” which is still preserved at 
 Bodmin. It is a casket composed of 
 thin slabs of polished ivory, enriched 
 with gold and colour, the devices being 
 birds, foliage, and geometrical com- 
 binations within circles. The length 
 is 1 ft. 6 in. ; height 1 ft. The work is 
 of Moorish type ; and the casket may 
 well have been made either in south- 
 ern Spain or in Sicily. It is the 
 finest and largest reliquary of this 
 class which exists in this country. 
 
 In the yard, E. of the chancel, 
 stands the ivy-clad chapel of St. 
 Thomas the Martyr, Dec., with good 
 3-light window, sedilia, and piscina. 
 Here is also the fragment of the shaft 
 of a cross. 
 
 Bodmin had formerly several other 
 chapels, long since destroyed. Berry 
 Tower , however, on the hill to the N., 
 is a relic of the Chapel of the Guild 
 of the Holy Rood, and was built in 
 the reign of Henry VI. The Fran- 
 ciscans, or Grey Friars, were esta- 
 blished in Bodmin about 1239. The 
 great hall in which the assizes were 
 formerly held was either the refec- 
 tory or the ch. of their convent. This 
 was destroyed almost entirely to 
 make room for the present assize- 
 court — a plain building, dating from 
 1837. The W. end of the Franciscan 
 building remains, and is used as a 
 corn-market. The gate-house of the 
 convent has been converted into a 
 dwelling-house (now occupied by a 
 shoemaker named Treverton). 
 
 The Town-hall is old, and has a 
 curious carved wooden doorway in 
 the street, 16th centy. There is a 
 wooden doorway in the High Street, 
 going towards the Asylum, a flat- 
 headed trefoil, probably early 14th 
 
 centy., in a small hostelry of humble 
 character. 
 
 In the Market House , built 1839, 
 is a bell, rung at the opening and 
 close of the market, which was 
 brought from the refectory of the 
 Franciscans. It resembles one still 
 remaining at Arras, on which is the 
 date 1400. 
 
 Bodmin has a Literary Institution , 
 and on its outskirts the County Gaol 
 and County Lunatic Asylum , which 
 may be visited by strangers, subject 
 to certain regulations. 
 
 The leaders of the rising in 1496, 
 for resisting the collection of a sub- 
 sidy by Henry VII., were both men 
 of Bodmin — Flamank, and Michael 
 Joseph, a blacksmith. (For a relic 
 left by the latter in Devonshire, as 
 the insurgents pressed onward to 
 Blackheath, see Rte, 1 7.) They were 
 hanged at Tyburn. In the same year 
 Perkin Warbeck, after landing in 
 Whitsand Bay, advanced to Bodmin, 
 and there was proclaimed as Richard 
 IV. 3000 men flocked to his stand- 
 ard here, and marched on Exeter 
 (see Rte. 1). 
 
 In 1549 Bodmin was the scene of 
 a singular execution. The Cornish 
 rebels having encamped in the neigh- 
 bourhood, the inhabitants of this town 
 obliged Boyer, their mayor, to allow 
 them the necessary supplies. Shortly 
 afterwards the insurgents were de- 
 feated near Exeter by Lord Russell, 
 and the provost marshal, Sir Anthony 
 Kingston, was despatched into Corn- 
 wall to bring the fugitives to justice. 
 Upon entering the county, Kingston 
 informed Boyer by letter that he 
 would dine with him on a certain 
 day, and at the appointed time ar- 
 rived accompanied by a train of 
 followers. The mayor received him 
 with hospitality, but a little before 
 dinner Kingston took his host aside 
 and whispering in his ear that one 
 of the townspeople was to be exe- 
 cuted requested that a gallows might 
 be erected. The mayor ordered it 
 to be prepared, and as soon as din- 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 23. — Bodmin : Excursions . 
 
 355 
 
 ner was ended Sir Anthony asked 
 whether the work was finished. The 
 mayor answered that all was ready. 
 “I pray you,” said the provost, 
 44 bring me to the place ; ” and he 
 took the mayor by the arm, and, be- 
 holding the gallows, asked whether 
 he thought that it was strong enough. 
 44 Yes,” said the mayor, “doubtless 
 it is.” 44 Well, then,” said the pro- 
 vost, 44 get thee up speedily, for it is 
 prepared for you!” 44 1 hope,” an- 
 swered the poor mayor, 44 you mean 
 not as you speak.” 44 In faith !” said 
 the provost, 44 there is no remedy, 
 for thou hast been a busy rebel.” 
 Accordingly the mayor was strung 
 up without further ceremony. 
 
 At Helland, 2 m. N., are some 
 small remains of the Manor-house, 
 once the seat of another famous in- 
 surgent of the same period, Hum- 
 phrey Arundell, governor of St. Mi- 
 chael’s Mount (Rte. 29, Exc. 1). 
 
 On Halgaver, or the Goafs Moor, 1 
 
 m. S., there was anciently held, in 
 the month of July, a carnival, which 
 has been long discontinued. A Lord 
 of Misrule was appointed, before 
 whom any unpopular , person, so un- 
 lucky as to be captured, was dragged 
 to answer a charge of felony; the 
 imputed crime being such as his ap- 
 pearance might suggest — a negli- 
 gence in his attire, or a breach of 
 manners. With ludicrous gravity 
 a mock trial was then commenced, 
 and judgment as gravely pronounced, 
 when the culprit was hurried off to 
 receive his punishment. In this his 
 apparel was generally a greater suf- 
 ferer than his person, as it commonly 
 terminated in his being thrown into 
 the water or the mire. There is no 
 doubt as to the antiquity of this 
 curious jubilee : — 44 Take him before 
 the mayor of Halgaver” — 44 Present 
 him in Halgaver Court” — are old 
 Cornish proverbs. 
 
 At St. Lawrence , 1 m. N.W., are 
 some very scanty remains of a hos- 
 
 pital for lepers. This hospital was in 
 existence as early as the 13th centy., 
 and was perhaps founded by the 
 Franciscans, to whom the care of 
 lepers was an especial object. It was 
 incorporated by Queen Eliz., 1582. 
 St. Lawrence is now only celebrated 
 for an annual horse-fair (Aug. 10). 
 
 A good view of Bodmin and of 
 the neighbouring country— -it is said 
 that a circumf. of 28 parishes may 
 be traced — is obtained from the Bea- 
 con Hill , S. of the town. The obelisk 
 on the hill is a monument to the late 
 Lieut.-Gen. Sir Walter Raleigh Gil- 
 bert, of Indian celebrity, a native 
 of the town, who died 1853. About 
 2j m. from Bodmin Ch. is a Roman 
 camp, from which coins of Vespasian, 
 Samian ware, &c., have been dug. 
 It is a parallelogram, of which 2 
 sides remain. It commands a ford 
 across the Alan river. 
 
 The chief excursions are to the 
 Glynn Valley and the Pencarrow Woods. 
 
 The Bodmin Road Stat. (on the 
 Cornwall Rly.) is at 
 
 Glynn Bridge , 4 m. on the road to 
 Liskeard. Above it is Glynn (Lord 
 Vivian), below it Lanhydrocli (Lord 
 Robartes ; see post , Exc. from Lost- 
 withiel), both beautiful seats on the 
 banks of the Fowey. Glynn was 
 the old family seat of the Glynn 
 family until bought by the late 
 Lord Vivian. The house had been 
 nearly destroyed by fire, and was 
 renovated and much improved by 
 its new proprietor. Among the pic- 
 tures at Glynn is a portrait by 
 Reynolds of Mr. Craunch of Plymp- 
 ton, by whose advice the young art- 
 ist was sent to London to be placed 
 under Hudson. On the road to 
 Glynn Bridge the old entrenchment 
 of Castle Canyhe is passed on the rt. 
 This is nearly circular. The site 
 commands a wide view. 
 
 Pencarrow, the seat of the late 
 Colonial Secretary, Sir Wm. Moles- 
 worth, Bart, (and now of the Dow- 
 ager Lady Moles worth), lies 3j m, 
 
Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 356 
 
 to the N. of Bodmin. The house 
 was rebuilt by Sir John Molesworth, 
 d. 1775 (the Moles worths iirst settled 
 here temp. Eliz.). It contains some 
 family pictures by Reynolds, North- 
 cote, and Raeburn. The gardens and 
 grounds were much improved by the 
 late Sir William Molesworth. On 
 the highest ground in the park is 
 a circ. camp, with 3 ramparts and 
 ditches (only 2 at the N.W.). A 
 curious external work of defence, 
 consisting of a high bank and ditch, 
 with a strongly-protected entrance, 
 bends round the W. side. The sides 
 of the entrenchment are covered w ith 
 old and stunted oaks. It commands 
 a wide view, seaward, of the N. cliffs, 
 and of the grounds of Pencarrow 
 below. S. of the park are Dun- 
 meer Wood and Dunmeer Castle, the 
 objects of the excursion. A walk of 
 l£ m. by the side of the Wadebridge 
 railway will bring you to Dunmeer 
 Bridge. Dunmeer Castle is i m. to 
 the N. of it. This is an irregular 
 oval, with a single vallum and ditch. 
 Further N. 1 m. is a smaller en- 
 trenchment called Penhargate Castle, 
 overhanging the railway and the 
 1. bank of the river. Boscame , a 
 
 farmhouse 1 m. W. of Dunmeer 
 Bridge, was formerly a seat of the 
 Flamanks (the hall, temp. Hen. VII., 
 remains intact, and now serves as a 
 kitchen) ; and Park , ^ m. W. of the 
 N. entrance to Pencarrow, of the 
 Peverells and Bottreaux. The skirts 
 of Dunmeer Wood are the habitat 
 of Lujusticum Cornubiense , one of our 
 rarest plants. 
 
 Several longer excursions can be 
 made from this tow r n, viz. — to Wade- 
 bridge (Rte. 22), by rly. — to Jjost- 
 vithiel {post), say by a circuitous 
 ramble over Halgaver to llelmen Tor 
 (Rte. 23) and Lanlivery, returning by 
 road — to the ruins of St. BcnneVs 
 Monastery near Lanivet, 3 m., and the 
 Roche Rocks, 8 m. (see Rte. 21) — to 
 Blisland (where is a church worth 
 visiting, see Rte. 2 1 ), on the border of 
 
 the moors, and the rocky valley of Plan- 
 ter- Gantick, 2^ miles from Wenford 
 Bridge — to the Four -hole Cross , Brown 
 Willy, and Roughtor, sleeping a night 
 at the Jamaica Inn (Rte. 21) — and, 
 lastly, to St. Neot, (present route, ante), 
 by Cardinham Bury, and the old tin 
 stream-work of Treveddoe (see Rte. 21). 
 
 Brynn (a small hill, i. e. hillock), 
 W. of Bodmin, in the parish of 
 Withiel, was the birthplace of Sir 
 Beville Grenville, the royalist leader, 
 victorious in the fight of Stamford 
 Hill, near Stratton (Rte. 25) and 
 killed in the battle of Lausdown. 
 Withiel (Corn, elevated) Ch. has a 
 good Perp. tower, which, together 
 with the old parsonage, are said to 
 have been built by Prior Vivian of 
 Bodmin. The tower of St. Wenn Ch. 
 (2 m. W.) is very fine Perp. 
 
 It is 7 m. from Bodmin to Wade- 
 bridge by rly. This line extends to 
 Wenford Bridge, 7 m. up the course of 
 the Camel. It was opened in 1834 for 
 the transport of ore and sea-sand, and 
 in 184o was purchased by the South 
 Western Company. Passengers are 
 carried only between Bodmin and 
 Wadebridge (and only on market 
 days). 
 
 Leaving the Bodmin Road Stat., 
 the railway passes on a viaduct the 
 deep T regear Bottom , which leads 
 to the Glynn valley. The dell is a 
 mass of foliage, and a very favourite 
 haunt of the woodcock. To the N. 
 are the Bodmin moors, and westward 
 Hensbarrow, the Roche Rocks, and 
 crested llelmen Tor. 
 
 [From the high ground beyond 
 West Taphouse, a lonely public-house 
 under the bleak height of Five Barrow 
 Down, are seen 1. the wooded hills 
 and valleys of Boconnoc, one of the 
 most beautiful prospects in the county. 
 Nearer the road rises Boconnoc Cross, 
 erected 1848 by the Hon. George 
 Fortescue.] The railway descends 
 through the valley of the Fowey 
 river, with Restormel Castle rt., to 
 
 30^ m, Lostwithiel {Tun: the Royal 
 
Cornwall. Route 23. — Lostwithiel — Restormel Castle, 
 
 357 
 
 Talbot; — pop. 1017), seated in the 
 deep valley of the Fowey. It is 
 fancifully said to be lost within the 
 hill; but the name is a corruption 
 of Lestwithiely the Supreme Court. 
 This town is one of the most in- 
 teresting in Cornwall. It was that 
 in which the elections for the county 
 took place until the Reform Bill. The 
 Church of St. Bartholomew is almost 
 entirely of the 15th and 17th cents., 
 with the exception of the tower and 
 spire, which are of the 13th, and 
 form “ a composition as beautiful as 
 it is unique. The gablets surmount- 
 ing each side of the octagonal belfry, 
 though of a plain character, produce 
 an effect of richness unsurpassed by 
 any parapet.” — E. W. Godwin, who 
 suggests that the design (unique only 
 in England) may have come from 
 Normandy. The E. window is of the 
 14th centy. The ch. was materially 
 injured by an explosion of gun- 
 powder during its occupation by the 
 Roundheads under Essex in 1644. 
 On the font is the figure of a man 
 on horseback holding a hawk, and 
 there is in the N. aisle a Brass , Tris- 
 tram Curteys, 1423. Near the ch. 
 is the Duchy-house, a modern struc- 
 ture, constructed in a very massive 
 manner of slate, but including re- 
 mains of the so-called Stannary 
 Court and Prison , which are in all 
 probability those of a Hall of, Ex- 
 chequer and other buildings erected 
 by Edmund Earl of Cornwall (son 
 of Richard King of the Romans), 
 temp. Edw. I. The windows of the 
 hall are modern and doubtful resto- 
 rations. Lostwithiel had been made 
 a free borough by Earl Richard, 
 King of the Romans. His son 
 made it the sole place in Cornwall 
 for the coinage and sale of tin ; but 
 this privilege was of no long dura- 
 tion. Earl Edmund probably built 
 the first ch., of which the spire and 
 tower are relics. The ch. itself was 
 appropriated (at what time does not 
 appear) to the Benedictine Priory of 
 Tywardreth near Fowey. The cu- 
 
 rious and picturesque bridge (soon, it 
 is said, to be replaced by a modern 
 monstrosity) dates from the 14th cent. 
 The trout of Lostwithiel are con- 
 sidered very excellent. The excur- 
 sions from this place are to Restor- 
 mel, Lanhydrock, Boconnoc, and to 
 Fowey by the river. 
 
 (a) The ivy-mantled ruin of Rc- 
 stormel Castle (Res or X<?s-tormel,V.c. 
 the Court of Assembly or gathering 
 — i. e. for battle: it is still often called 
 Zestormel) crowns a hill on the valley 
 side, 1 m. N. Neither Restormel nor 
 Lostwithiel are mentioned in Domes- * 
 day. Restormel, at a very early 
 period, seems to have been in the 
 hands of the Cardinhams. In 1264 
 it was in the possession of Thomas 
 Tracey, who married the Cardinham 
 heiress; and it is recorded that he 
 surrendered the castle of Restormel 
 to Ralph Arundell, to be held on 
 behalf of Simon de Montfort. The 
 castle soon after came into the hands 
 of the Earl of Cornwall, either Ri- 
 chard or his son Edmund. The 
 latter certainly had it, and probably 
 the former was the first to acquire it. 
 
 It has since been annexed to the 
 duchy. The castle is described by 
 Leland as “ unroofed and sore de- 
 faced” in the time of Henry VIII., 
 and appears to have been a ruin 
 in the days of Eliz. “ The whole 
 castle,” says Norden, writing in that 
 reign, “ beginneth to mourne, and 
 to wringe out hard stones for 
 teares ; that she that was embraced, 
 visited, and delighted with great 
 princes, is now desolate, forsaken, 
 and forlorne.” Restormel was, how- 
 ever, garrisoned in the civil war by 
 the Parliament, and taken by Sir 
 Richard Grenville, Aug. 21st, 1644. 
 What now remains is a circular, em- 
 battled wall, crowning the hill, with 
 gatehouse on the W., and a projecting 
 tower E.N.E., the whole surrounded 
 by a deep moat. The gatehouse and 
 tower may be (parts of them cer- 
 tainly are) later editions. Restormel 
 
358 
 
 Sect. It. 
 
 lioute 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 is stud (and probably with truth — 
 since the castle resembles in plan 
 those of Launceston and Trematon 
 — see Launceston , Rte. 21, and com- 
 pare what is said of Totnes, Rte. 7, 
 and Exeter, Rte. 1) to be the work 
 of Richard King of the Romans, 
 temp. Hen. III. It is beautifully 
 situated, overlooking the wooded 
 valley of the Fowey. At the foot 
 of the hill stands Restormel House, 
 residence of C. B. Sawle, Esq., but 
 property of the Duchy. The road to 
 this mansion is the road to the castle. 
 At the farmyard behind the house 
 turn 1. up the hill, and rt. in the field 
 above, where a stile shows the way 
 into the wood. In the drive through 
 the park you pass Restormel Mine, 
 which the Queen entered when she 
 visited Cornwall. It is worked for 
 iron, which is contained in a cross- 
 course. 
 
 (6) Lanhydrock House (Lord Ro- 
 bartes. T. J. Agar Robartes, Esq., 
 
 M. P. for E. Cornwall, was created 
 Baron Robartes in 1869). m. 
 
 N. W., is a granite edifice, mainly 
 in its ancient condition, and was 
 formerly the seat of the Robartes, 
 Viscounts Bodmin and Earls of 
 Radnor. Sir Richard Robartes, 
 created a baronet and afterwards a 
 baron by Jas. I., became owner of 
 Lanhydrock in 1620. His son, the 
 2nd Lord Robartes, attached himself 
 to the Parliament during the Civil 
 War, lost and recovered his estate, 
 led a retired life here during the 
 Protectorate of Cromwell, was re- 
 ceived into favour with Charles II., 
 became Lord Privy Seal, Ld. -Lieut, 
 of Ireland, and President of the 
 Council, and in 1679 was created 
 Viscount Bodmin and E. of Radnor. 
 He was the builder of the existing 
 house, and. a portrait of this favourite 
 of fortune hangs in the gallery. 
 (The title became extinct in 1757.) 
 The N. and S. wings of the house 
 bear date, respectively, 1636, 1642; 
 the gateway 1651* The house is 
 
 approached by an avenue planted 
 in 1648, and contains a gallery 
 116 ft. in length, the ceiling of 
 which is adorned by a rude stucco 
 relief of the Creation. Lanhydrock 
 was garrisoned for the Parliament in 
 the civil war — (the head-quarters of 
 Essex’s army were at Lespryn, at 
 the foot of the avenue of sycamores ; 
 those of the Royalists, under Sir 
 Beville Grenville were at Boconnoc) 
 — and surrendered in 1644 to the 
 king, who bestowed it on his general 
 Sir Richard Grenville, but the Par- 
 liament restored it to its original 
 owner. “ Lanhydrock stands almost 
 untouched, as if it had been buried 
 alive since the days of the Puritans. 
 
 . . . Lord Robartes, its builder, was 
 a stanch Presbyterian ; and the 
 library collected by himself and his 
 chaplain — one Hannibal Gammon — 
 stands on the old shelves of the long 
 gallery as if its Roundhead pur- 
 chasers had been using it only yes- 
 terday . . . rare old tomes ... a large 
 part seasoned with many a bitter 
 MS. marginal note against prelacy 
 and popery. . . . The avenue was 
 planted under orders sent by Lord 
 Robartes from London, when he had 
 become Conservative, and had been 
 clapped by Oliver Cromwell into the 
 Gatehouse.” — Quart. Rev., vol. 102. 
 The carved oak panelling in this 
 gallery, its ceiling, and the Flemish 
 tapestry and cedar panels in the 
 drawing-room, should be noticed. 
 Out of one of the bed-rooms there 
 is a hiding-room behind the panels. 
 The Tregeagle of the old legends 
 was steward to Lord Robartes, and 
 a room is still called “ Tregeagle’s 
 room.” There are some family por- 
 traits worth notice. The private 
 gardens are very pretty. The ch. 
 at the back of the house is without 
 interest, except for a cross which 
 stands by the porch. 
 
 (c) Boconnop (the residence of the 
 Hon. G. M. Fortescue), 4 m. E., was 
 purchased in 1709 by Governor Pitt, 
 
Cornwall* Route 23 . — Boconnoc — St. Btazey * 
 
 the grandfather of the great Earl of 
 Chatham. It was the property of 
 Lady Grenville, who possessed also 
 the beautiful seat of Dropmore, near 
 Maidenhead ( Handbook for Berks). In 
 the mansion are some good paintings 
 by Kneller , Lely , and Reynolds , and a 
 bust of Lord Chatham. Lady Gren- 
 ville became possessed of this pro- 
 perty on the death of her brother 
 Lord Camelford, who erected the 
 obelisk in the park to the memory 
 of his friend Sir Philip Lyttelton. 
 This obelisk stands in a redoubt 
 made at the time Charles I. had his 
 head-quarters at Boconnoc, and was 
 the rear of the position of his line 
 when the battle of Braddoc Down 
 was fought. The Roundheads were 
 posted opposite, with the valley be- 
 tween. After firing at each other 
 for some time with no result, Sir 
 Ralph Hopton went down the valley, 
 charged up the hill of Braddoc, ut- 
 terly routed the Roundheads, pursued 
 them through Liskeard, and took 
 possession of that town. The woods 
 of Boconnoc stretch far over hill 
 and valley, and are watered by tri- 
 butaries to the little river Lerrin. 
 A carriage-road, 6 m, long, runs 
 through them. 
 
 The little Perp. ch. of Boconnoc 
 is above the house, and has been 
 much cared for. On the communion 
 table of oak, are the words, “ Made 
 by me, Sir Reynold Mohun, 1629.” 
 
 In Braddoc ch. (Perp. it is at the 
 N. end of Boconnoc park) there are 
 remains of old glass ; ^emblems of the 
 Passion, alternating with modern 
 arms, &c., and a chalice of the 15th 
 century. 
 
 (d) The valley of the Fowey be- 
 tween Lostwithiel and the coast is 
 remarkable for some of the most 
 delightful scenery in Cornwall. To 
 view it to advantage the traveller 
 should take a boat and descend the 
 stream. In m. the banks suddenly 
 open out, and the glassy reaches of 
 an estuary are beheld winding to- | 
 
 359 
 
 wards the sea. The most notable 
 points are the Ch. of St. Winnow 
 (Perp. beautifully situated and well 
 cared for), and the romantic inlets 
 flowing to Lerrin and St. Cadoc. 
 At St. Winnow is a House of Mercy, 
 similar to that at Wantage ( Handbook 
 for Berks). The distance to Fowey 
 fJZte. 24) is about 7 m. 
 
 Pelyn House , seat of Nicholas Ken- 
 dall, Esq., M.P. for E. Cornwall, 
 1£ m. from Lostwithiel, was burnt 
 down in April, 1862. 
 
 [From Lostwithiel you may visit 
 St. Blazey and its neighbourhood, 
 proceeding either by road, 4 m., or 
 by rail to Par, whence St. Blazey is 
 1J m. distant. By road, ^ m. rt., is 
 seen the fine tower of Lanlivery Ch. 
 N. of it are the rugged hills of Red 
 Moor and (3^- m.) Helmen Tor (see 
 post ). At Red Moor is an old tin- 
 work, with remains of (so-called) 
 Jews’ houses and smelting-places. 
 Several ingots of tin have been 
 found here, and a figure in tin 
 (now at Lanhydrock), 12 or 14 in. 
 high, a rude representation of either 
 Moses or the First Person of the 
 Trinity. It has Hebrew characters 
 on the back and front, and 2 horns 
 or rays projecting from the sides 
 of the head. A lane and a church- 
 path lead from Lanlivery Ch. to 
 Luxulian, the Treffry Viaduct, and 
 Valley of Carmears, and afford a de- 
 lightful, but circuitous, walk to St. 
 Blazey. The direct road passes the 
 abandoned works of the Fowey Con- 
 sols (copper-mine), and then de- 
 scends to 
 
 2 m. St. Blazey {Inn: the Packhorse) 
 (Pop. 4224), a town seated under an 
 amphitheatre of wooded heights, 1J 
 m. from the harbour of Par. It is 
 named after St. Blaise, the patron 
 of woolcombers, who was bishop of 
 Sebaste in Armenia, but has retained 
 a place in the English calendar. His 
 local legend asserts that he landed at 
 Par (3rd centy.) on a visit to Britain. 
 
360 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 From the circumstances of his mar- 
 tyrdom (he was tortured with iron 
 combs) he was regarded as the 
 patron of woolcombers and clothiers, 
 and his memory is to this day perpe- 
 tuated at St. Blazey, and in the manu- 
 facturing districts in the N. of England. 
 There is a figure of St. Blaize in the 
 ch. On the hills above the town is 
 Prideaux , the seat of Sir Colman 
 Rashleigh, Bart., an ancient quadran- 
 gular mansion with stairs of granite ; 
 and, on a height adjoining it, the 
 remains of an earthwork known as 
 Prideaux Warren. On the road to 
 Par is a large iron-foundry. 
 
 There is much that is interesting 
 within reach of St. Blazey and its 
 neighbour St. Austell. There are 
 the important copper-mines of Fowey 
 Consols (South) and Par Consols , the 
 great tin-mine of Charles Town , the 
 open mine of Carclaze (tin and 
 Kaolin), the china-clay works , and tin 
 stream-works, the romantic Valley of 
 Carmears , the Treffry Viaduct , and 
 the busy ports of Par and Charles 
 Town; and at greater distances, Fowey , 
 Restonnel Castle , Hensbarrow , Roche 
 Rocks , and the picturesque fishing- 
 towns of Mevagissey and Gorran Haven 
 (see Rte. 24). 
 
 The valley of Carmears (or Cairn- 
 mens) is more especially the “ sight ” 
 of St. Blazey, from which it is a walk 
 of about a mile, it is a beautiful 
 and romantic scene of wood and rock, 
 — one of the finest, if not the very 
 finest, of the Cornish valleys. It 
 leads towards Luxulian, and the 
 highlands of Hensbarrow, and de- 
 rives its name from the granite tors 
 which rise from its sides. The rail- 
 way from Par to the china-clay 
 works of Hensbarrow and the quar- 
 ries of Luxulian may be used as a 
 road to the valley, and is to be found 
 at the entrance of St. Blazey from 
 Lostwithiel. This rail and a stream 
 — each of which is walled magnifi- 
 cently with granite — run side by 
 side to the Carmears, which open 
 
 beautifully to view on a turn to the 
 1. From the gorge which forms the 
 portal the rail ascends a long and 
 steep incline, to the rt. of which a 
 cascade thunders through a wood. 
 But you should here leave the rail, 
 for you can return by it from the 
 viaduct, if desirous of viewing the 
 scenery from the high ground. A 
 walk of about 2 m. up the valley will 
 bring you to the 
 
 Treffry Viaduct , a magnificent gra- 
 nite structure, erected at the sole 
 cost of the late Mr. Treffry, of Place 
 House, Fowey'. It is elevated more 
 than 100 ft., and carries the Hens- 
 barrow railway — also the work of 
 Mr. Treffry, and which he had con- 
 templated extending to the N. coast 
 (making Newquay on the N. and 
 Par on the S. the termini) — and 
 a stream for working the incline, 
 across the valley, the latter flowing 
 in a passage below the roadway. Be- 
 yond the viaduct the valley grows 
 bare and stony, its sides bristle with 
 granite rocks, and at the distance of 
 a mile rises the ch. tower of 
 
 Luxulian. — This parish is known 
 chiefly for its granite, a very beauti- 
 ful material, of which the lighthouse 
 and beacon on Plymouth breakwater 
 were built. Boulders of porphyry, 
 are also found lying about the moors 
 of Luxulian, St. Wenn, and Withiel 
 and it was from one of these (of a 
 deep pink colour, blotched w j ith black i 
 hornblende) that the sarcophagus oil 
 the Duke of Wellington was made 
 The block (which was on the pro! 
 perty of William Rashleigh, Esq., o 
 Menabilly) weighed 70 tons, wa:j 
 wrought and polished by steanl 
 power, and converted into a sari 
 cophagus at a cost of 1100^. Th 
 granite quarries are at present directlq 
 opposite Luxulian, but they are con 
 tinually advancing along the vallei 
 side. The rail joins the branch froi r 
 Hensbarrow at the viaduct. Tlj 
 Church of Luxulian, which stamfl 
 
Cornwall. Route 23 . — Whispering Stone — Fowey Mines . 361 
 
 high among rocks of granite, is Perp. 
 and its tower was for some centuries 
 the depository of the Stannary re- 
 cords. These were kept here appa- 
 rently from an early period ; and 
 when the fine Perp. tower was built 
 a small room at the top was prepared 
 for their reception. They were kept 
 in a coffer “ with 8 locks and 8 keys*,”, 
 and with them was the common seal 
 of the Cornish stannary, “ having the 
 print in it of one working with a 
 spade in a tin work, and another with 
 a pickaxe {Pearce's ‘ Stannaries ’). 
 The church belonged to the Bene- 
 dictines of Tywardreath. In the 
 village is a little baptistery , so com- 
 mon in Cornwall, projecting from 
 the bank, with granite roof and 
 sides. The moors in the neighbour- 
 hood are wild and rocky, and contain 
 some of the most important of the 
 tin stream- works. A walk over these 
 hills will introduce the stranger to 
 scenery characteristic of the Cornish 
 highlands. He may visit the Whis- 
 pering Stone , 1 m. N., on the estate of 
 Tregarden, and there hear, as by 
 magic, a gentle whisper breathed on 
 the opposite side of the valley; and 
 he may extend the excursion to the 
 granite rocks of Helmen , a bold earn, 
 rising from Red Moor, about 2 m. 
 further N., and there search out the 
 logan-stone on its southern slope, 
 and enjoy on its crest a view stretch- 
 ing from sea to sea. In wandering 
 about the moors by Helmen Tor you 
 may on Creggan ( heathy ) Moor find 
 an old and curious little conventicle, 
 very picturesque, with its old burial- 
 place and well. It is in Lanivet 
 parish. 
 
 The Fowey Consolidated Mines are 
 
 situated on a hill, 1 m. from St. Blazey 
 towards Lostwithiel, and command 
 a panoramic view. They formed 
 (when in operation) one of the most 
 important groups of the Cornish 
 copper - mines. The South Fowey 
 Consols are still active.] 
 
 The station beyond Lostwithiel is 
 
 [Dev. $ Corn.'] 
 
 34f m. Par (1J m. S. of St. Blazey), 
 a busy and bustling place where an 
 active pilchard-fishery is pursued, and 
 a great quantity of ore, china-stone, 
 and china-clay is shipped to Swansea 
 and the potteries. Here also are 
 the “ Treffry Lead Smelting Works ” 
 — the only works of the sort in 
 Cornwall where silver is yearly pro- 
 duced by the ton. 
 
 The harbour of Par was entirely 
 the creation of the late Mr. Treffry. 
 The ores of the once rich Fowey 
 Consols Mine (now abandoned) were 
 formerly shipped at Fowey, whither 
 they were carried on mules — a very 
 expensive and tedious process. It 
 was at first proposed to make a tram- 
 way from the mine to the harbour at 
 Fowey ; but this proved impossible, 
 and Mr. Treffry then resolved to form 
 an entirely new harbour at Par. 
 This was effected by the construction 
 of a massive breakwater , 1200 ft. long, 
 giving protection from the southerly 
 gales which swept the open bay. 
 Commodious quays were then pro- 
 vided— -besides a canal running up 
 the St. Blazey valley (now disused), 
 and the railway (already mentioned) 
 to Hensbarrow and Luxulian. Since 
 the death of Mr. Treffry the con- 
 struction of the Cornwall Railway 
 has brought Par into direct com- 
 munication with the whole il broad 
 gauge ” system. There is now har- 
 bour accommodation for 50 vessels ; 
 and the quays and wharves are tra- 
 versed by lines of rail in connection 
 with the main rly. Par is the chief 
 port of shipment for china-clay ; and 
 there are extensive granite works 
 here ; but the smelting works are by 
 far the most important. These are 
 marked by a giant chimney stack, 
 235 ft. high. Ore from silver-lead 
 mines in various parts of the county 
 is here submitted to certain smelting 
 processes, which result in the produc- 
 tion of ingots of pure silver. The 
 lead ore, looking like a fine dirty 
 gravel, is first “ roasted ” in a rever- 
 beratory furnace to drive away the 
 R 
 
362 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 sulphur and arsenic that may be pre- 
 sent. It is then melted, and the 
 silver is separated from the lead by a 
 process devised by a German metal- 
 lurgist named Flach. Silver has 
 greater affinity for zinc than for lead ; 
 and the basis of Flach’s process is the 
 addition of a certain proportion of 
 zinc to the metal lead. The whole 
 is then kept well stirred ; and the 
 zinc, being lighter than the lead, rises 
 to the surface, bringing the silver 
 w r ith it. This surface metal (which 
 still contain^ much lead) is skimmed 
 off repeatedly, and the final result is 
 a very rich alloy of lead, zinc, and 
 silver. The zinc is then volatilized, 
 and the process of cupellation oxidizes 
 the remaining lead, converting it 
 into litharge, which is skimmed off 
 from the surface of the silver as it 
 rises. The “ cupel” (a shallow 
 elliptical vessel made of burnt bones 
 in an iron frame) remains at last full 
 of pure silver, which is run off 
 through holes at the bottom into in- 
 gots. “ Cakes ” of silver from a 
 single cupel have been produced at 
 Par exceeding 13,000 oz. in weight, 
 and worth between 3000/. and 4000/. 
 
 Par has long been known for its 
 group of copper-mines, now worked 
 as one under the title of Par Consols , 
 a most busy scene on the sloping hill 
 above the shore. The condition of 
 this concern is at present very 
 flourishing, and mainly to be attri- 
 buted to the enterprise of the late 
 Mr. Treffry, who was one of the 
 principal proprietors. The country 
 in which the mine is excavated is 
 slate, and the engine a very colossus 
 in size and power. The works are 
 conducted on the largest scale, and 
 may well be selected for examination 
 by the stranger. The rly. crosses 
 the canal and tramroad by a granite 
 skew bridge. It skirts the shore and 
 commands a pretty view of the bay. 
 The distant cliffs are of many colours, 
 pierced by green rifts and chasms, 
 and curtained by shrubs. 
 
 From Par a long hill leads to the 
 
 village of St. Blazey Gate , on a lofty 
 height from which the works of Par 
 Mount and other mines are seen S. 
 At Biscovey the road passes rt. a very 
 good ch., mainly built by the late 
 General Carlyon, from the designs 
 of Mr. G. Street, and descends to a 
 woody region. 
 
 rt. of the railway is Tregrehan (t. c. 
 “the granite-place”), the beautiful 
 seat of - Major Carlyon, but where 
 the park, covered with noble trees, 
 is undermined in every direction 
 by the works of Old Crinnis (a 
 copper-mine no longer in work). A 
 stranger, however, would never sus- 
 pect it. On the rt., 2J m. from St. 
 Austell, a lane leads to a very pretty 
 valley, where there are quarries in 
 the limestone, tin stream- works, and 
 china-clay works. One on foot might 
 walk this way to Carclaze, and then 
 descend upon St* Austell. The rail- 
 way curves N. and reaches 
 
 39i m. St. Austell ( Inns : White 
 Hart; Globe. Pop. 11,893). This 
 town (which Leland described as a 
 “ poor village,” and which has risen 
 to importance from its situation in 
 the heart of a great mining district) 
 has a place in history as having been 
 taken by Charles 1. in 1644. It is 
 seated on a southern slope of one of 
 the great hills, and is a place of some 
 bustle from the continual transit 
 through its streets of heavy waggon- 
 loads of china-clay for the harbours 
 of Par and Charlestown. It is an 
 old-fashioned and somewhat gloomy 
 town, but can yet boast its cheerful i 
 villas on the outskirts. The rly. 
 station is on the N., and beyond i 1 
 one of the viaducts, for which the 
 line is remarkable, spans the adjacent 
 valley. 
 
 The Church (ded. to St. Austell, o 
 whom nothing is known) is one o 
 the best in the county, and rank 
 among the few Cornish churche 
 which are richly ornamented (Sj I 
 Mary at Truro, Probus, and Launce: 
 ton, are the 3 which in this respe*j[ 
 
Cornwall. Route 23 . — St. Austell — Pentowan. 
 
 most resemble it). The chancel is 
 Early Dec. (circ. 1290) ; the nave 
 and tower Perp. The chancel is not 
 parallel with the nave. The font is 
 of the Norm, type common in Corn- 
 wall, with 4 shafts at the angles, 
 having masks for caps. The bowl is 
 curiously sculptured with grotesque 
 birds and quadrupeds. On the but- 
 tresses of the S. side of the ch. are 
 represented the ladder, spear, nails, 
 and hammer, implements and em- 
 blems of the crucifixion, but which 
 pass with the vulgar for miners’ tools ; 
 and over the porch appears an inscrip- 
 tion which has proved a sore puzzle 
 to antiquaries, but is generally deci- 
 phered as the Cornish words Ry-du , 
 Give to God. The tower is richly 
 ornamented with figures in niches, 
 representing the Almighty Father 
 supporting the crucified Saviour, 
 Joseph and Mary, 3 saints or bishops, 
 and the 12 apostles. With Probus 
 this tower divides the honours of the 
 extreme west, and is particularly no- 
 ticeable for its groups of niches, and 
 the small elaborate decorations of 
 its belfry-story and parapet. The 
 ch. sadly requires restoration and 
 reseating. Harte (author of the 
 ‘ Life of Gustavus Adolphus ’) died 
 Vicar of St. Austell in 1774. 
 
 The Market-house and Town-hall , ad- 
 joining the ch., are of granite^ and 
 spacious. By the entrance to the 
 town-hall is a paving-stone on which 
 proclamations are read, and (the story 
 runs) a witch was burnt. But the 
 handsomest modern building is the 
 
 Devon and Cornwall Bank , opposite 
 the White Hart. It is of granite and 
 marble. Another structure of some 
 interest, but of a very different date, 
 may be found in the valley, to the 1. 
 of the Truro road. This is 
 
 Menacuddle Well — i. e. maen-a-coedl , 
 
 the hawk’s stone— and the remains of 
 its little chapel or baptistery. It is 
 situated in the grounds of Mr. Martin, 
 who allows the pilgrim to visit it. It 
 is in a pretty spot, where the river 
 
 363 
 
 tumbles in a fall (the wood which 
 surrounded it has (1862) been cut 
 down), lj m. S. on the road to Pen- 
 tewan is Penrice , Sir Charles Brunei 
 Graves-Sawle, Bart., and near Me- 
 gavissey, at a distance of 5 m., 
 Heligan , the seat of John Tremayne, 
 Esq. Heligan — i. e. “ the willow- 
 trees ” — is one of the finest seats 
 in the west country. The house, 
 though extremely ugly, is commo- 
 dious. In the gardens are some of 
 the largest Himalayan Rhododen- 
 drons in the kingdom. Adjoining 
 Charlestown is Duporth , the charm- 
 ing residence of G. G. R. Freeth, 
 Esq. The garden is “ a little para- 
 dise.” St. Austell has a Literary 
 Institution, in union with the Society 
 of Arts in London. (Mevagissey and 
 Very an Bay are best reached from 
 St. Austell. See this part of the 
 coast described in Rte. 24.) 
 
 [There are many interesting points 
 in the neighbourhood, some of which 
 have been alreadj^ enumerated at St. 
 Blazey ( ante ). To continue their 
 description, there is — 
 
 Charlestown, one of the largest tin- 
 mines in the county. The name also 
 attaches to Polmear, the port of St. 
 Austell, 2 m. distant. 
 
 Pentowan, i.e. head of the sand- 
 hills or “towans,” 4 m. S., has a 
 small harbour for ore and china-clay. 
 The stream-works (formerly worked 
 up the valley) have in some places 
 been carried on at a depth of 50 ft. 
 below the level of the sea. In the 
 tin-bed were found the roots and 
 stumps of oak-trees in their natural 
 position, showing clearly that a con- 
 siderable change in the relative level 
 of land and water must have here 
 occurred. Here also the horns of the 
 so-called Irish elk have been found, 
 rendered entirely metallic by tin ore, 
 which had taken the place of the 
 lime. Some canoes of oak, chained 
 together, have also been found here, 
 but were destroyed for firewood by 
 the streamers. Pentowan gives its 
 
 R 2 
 
364 
 
 Sect. 11. 
 
 Route 23. — Plymouth to Truro. 
 
 name to an excellent building-stone 
 quarried in a fine-grained elvan, com- 
 posed of felspar, quartz, and crystals 
 of mica, and remarkable for containing 
 fragments of the slate-rock which it 
 traverses. The harbour here is con- 
 nected with St. Austell by a railway. 
 
 Carclaze, however, is the greatest 
 curiosity — an immense tin-quarry, 
 which, from time immemorial, has 
 been worked open to the day (ancient 
 implements — of course said to be 
 Phoenician — have been found here). 
 The stranger will find Carclaze by 
 proceeding along the road to Lost- 
 withiel as far as the Mount Charles 
 public-house, about 1 m., and by then 
 taking a road on the 1. to the china- 
 clay works. From these works a 
 cottage will be seen at the top of the 
 hill. This is the blacksmith’s shop 
 of Carclaze, which is at the summit 
 of a solitary moor (alt. 665 ft.) com- 
 manding a fine prospect along the 
 coast. 
 
 The view of the mine (now worked 
 for china-clay — kaolin — as well as tin) 
 is truly astonishing. The traveller 
 suddenly discovers an enormous ex- 
 cavation, about 1 m. in circum- 
 ference, and more than 130 ft. in 
 depth, containing streams and stamp- 
 ing-mills, and a number of miners 
 and labourers employed in extracting 
 and dressing the ore. But the cir- 
 cumstance which renders Carclaze 
 (the grey rock) so eminently imposing 
 is the whiteness of the cliffs, con- 
 trasting with the brown surface of 
 the moor and the black coast in its 
 vicinity. It requires, indeed, no 
 great stretch of the imagination to 
 fancy Carclaze a work of enchant- 
 ment, and a chasm which has been 
 opened by some potent magician in 
 a mountain of silver. The country 
 here consisting of a disintegrated 
 schorlaceous granile, of the consist- 
 ence of mortar, the mine has been 
 necessarily worked open to the day, 
 but at a certain depth the granite 
 becomes more compact, and allows 
 
 of mining . The white sides of the 
 quarry are marked by black strings 
 of schorl, oxide of tin, and quartz, 
 which, unconnected with any lode, 
 but filling the joints of the granite, 
 appear to separate the cliffs into 
 rectangular divisions. The ancient 
 and present condition of the granite 
 is a curious consideration. The 
 material was once a solid rock, 
 traversed by cracks, in which hard 
 crystalline substances were gradually 
 deposited. By the decomposition of 
 the felspar the ancient rock has been 
 reduced to a pasty consistence, and 
 has crumbled to pieces, while the 
 original fissures have been filled w ith 
 mineral matter, which stands out in 
 prominent relief. The view from 
 Carclaze of the distant bay and in- 
 tervening wooded hills is exceedingly 
 beautiful, and would alone repay a 
 walk from St. Austell, but to enjoy it 
 to perfection you should go to the 
 remains of a tor at the eastern end 
 of the height. From that point you 
 will see Dartmoor in the far E., to the 
 N.E. the Bodmin moors, with Rough- 
 tor and Brown W illy, and N.W. Hens- 
 barrow crowned by its tumulus. 
 
 2 m. N. of Carclaze, on the E. flank 
 of Hensbarrow, is Beam Mine (tin), 
 which, like Carclaze, was originally 
 quarried, but is now mined. 
 
 Before the stranger leaves this 
 neighbourhood he should visit the 
 China-clay works. The granite which 
 he has seen in Carclaze is locally 
 known as soft g rowan, and abounds 
 in the parishes of St. Stephen in 
 Brannel, St. Dennis, and St. Austell. 
 It often contains talc in the place of 
 mica, and is characterised by the par- 
 tial decomposition of the felspar. In 
 some localities this growan is toleraby 
 firm, when it resembles the Chinese 
 petumtze , and, quarried under the 
 name of china-stone , is extensively 
 employed in the potteries. This is 
 ready for the market when cut into 
 blocks of a size convenient for trans- 
 port ; but the softer material, which 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 365 
 
 Route 23 . — China-clay Works . 
 
 is dug out of pits and called china-clay , 
 porcelain-earth f or kaolin , requires a 
 more elaborate preparation, for the 
 purpose of separating the quartz, 
 schorl, or mica from the finer particles 
 of the decomposed felspar. This clay 
 Is dug up in stopes , or layers, which 
 resemble a flight of irregular stairs. 
 A heap of it is then placed upon an 
 inclined platform, under a small 
 fall of water, and repeatedly stirred 
 with a piggle and shovel, by which 
 means the whole is gradually carried 
 down by the water in a state of sus- 
 pension. The heavy and useless 
 parts collect in a trench below the 
 platform, while the china-clay, car- 
 ried forward through a series of 
 catclipits, or tanks, in which the 
 grosser particles are deposited, is 
 ultimately accumulated in larger 
 pits, called ponds , from which the 
 clear supernatant water is from time 
 to time withdrawn. As soon as 
 these ponds are filled with clay, 
 they are drained, and the porce- 
 lain earth is removed to the pans , in 
 which it remains undisturbed until 
 sufficiently consolidated to be cut 
 into oblong masses. These are carried 
 to a roofed building, through which 
 the air can freely pass, and dried 
 completely for the market. When 
 dry they are scraped perfectly clean, 
 packed in casks, and carried to one 
 of the adjacent ports to be shipped 
 for the potteries. Such, until re- 
 cently, was the universal mode of 
 preparing the clay ; but the process is 
 now accelerated by 2 important im- 
 provements. These are — the construc- 
 tion of the cisterns as filters, and the 
 introduction of a machine by which 
 2 tons of the earth can be dried in 5 
 minutes. By these means a saving 
 of time, estimated at 4 months, is 
 effected. China-clay is used in bleach- 
 ing paper and calico, and to give 
 them weight and body, as well as in 
 the manufacture of china and the 
 finer kinds of earthenware. It was 
 first found in Cornwall (at Tregonan, 
 near Helston) in 1768, by W. Cook- 
 
 worthy, a quaker of Plymouth, and 
 at the present day is exported to an 
 annual amount of about 80,000 tons, 
 valued at 240,000/. 
 
 To the 1. of the road from Mount 
 Charles to Pentowan, in a field di- 
 rectly N. of the woods of Duporth, is 
 an upright block of granite called the 
 Giant’s Staff , or Long stone, to which 
 the following legend attaches. A 
 giant, travelling one night over these 
 hills, was overtaken by a storm which 
 blew off his hat. He immediately 
 pursued it, but, being impeded by 
 a staff which he carried in his 
 hand, he thrust this into the ground 
 until his hat could be secured. After 
 wandering, however, for some time 
 in the dark without being able to 
 find his hat, he gave over the pursuit 
 and returned for his staff ; but this 
 also he was unable to discover, and 
 both were irrecoverably lost. In the 
 morning, when the giant was gone, 
 his hat and staff were both found by 
 the country-people about a mile asun- 
 der. The hat, found on Whitehouse 
 Down, bore some resemblance to 
 a mill-stone, and continued in its 
 place till the autumn of 1798, when, 
 some soldiers having encamped 
 around it, they fancied, it is said, as 
 it was a wet season, that this giant’s 
 hat was the cause of the rain, and 
 therefore rolled it over the cliff. The 
 staff, or Long stone, was discovered in 
 the position in which it remains ; it 
 is about 12 feet high, and, tapering 
 towards the top, is said to have been 
 so fashioned by the giant that he 
 might grasp it with ease. 
 
 The Roche Rocks (Rte. 21) are 4j 
 m., and Hensharrow about 4 m., N. of 
 St. Austell. The summit of Hens- 
 barrow is 1034 ft. above the level of 
 the sea, and therefore commands a 
 view which will well reward you for 
 its ascent. For Mevagissey and the 
 coast W. see llte. 24.] 
 
 [Proceeding from St. Austell to- 
 wards Truro, by the old turnpike- 
 
366 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro. 
 
 road, 14 m., we pass on the 1. the 
 ancient tin-mine of 
 
 Polgooth (the pool which twists or 
 turns), a most extensive excavation. 
 It contains no less than 50 shafts, 
 and a single lode has been worked 
 the full length of a mile. 17,000/., 
 however, were expended before the 
 speculation yielded any return, when 
 the profits are said to have averaged 
 1500/. a month. The lodes of Pol- 
 gooth are remarkable for intersecting 
 each other in a very uncommon 
 manner. 
 
 m. The road crosses a hill with 
 fine view of the sea and coast, rt., 
 at the summit, is the tin-mine of 
 Hevoas , in which specimens of gold, 
 and some remains of the furnaces of 
 the Jews, who, it is said, formerly 
 worked the mine, have been dis- 
 covered. 
 
 i m. Hewas Water, a village in the 
 valley. From the turnpike on the 
 hill a road on the 1. leads to Tre- 
 gony. 2 m. along this road the tra- 
 veller will have on his 1. Pencoose 
 Castle , a circular entrenchment near 
 St, Ewe , the church of which place 
 has a spire, a thing of note in Corn- 
 wall. 
 
 lj m. The old seat of Pennance , 
 “ head of the brook,” with its avenue. 
 Beyond it on rt., near the roadside, 
 is another ancient circular camp. 
 
 We now begin a series of formi- 
 dable hills extending to Truro. In 
 the next valley lies Grampound.] 
 
 The railway from St. Austell 
 passes farther inland than the turn- 
 pike-road, and reaches 
 
 46 J m. Grampound Road Stat, (This 
 is the nearest station to St. Columb 
 (Rte. 22), 9 m. across the country. 
 Polkinhorne, the landlord of the Red 
 Lion at St. Columb, will send a car- 
 riage to this station if written to in 
 due time.) 
 
 Grampound (Grand Pont (?) : the 
 name suggests the pounds of Dart- 
 
 moor, A. S. pindian, to enclose), a vil- 
 lage of great antiquity, supposed to 
 have been the Voliba of Ptolemy, is 
 situated upon the river Fal, here only 
 a small stream. It has been chiefly 
 known in our times as a “ rotten bo- 
 rough,” so notorious for venality that 
 it lost its right of returning 2 M. P.s 
 before the Reform Bill. In 1620 
 John Hampden was first returned to 
 Pari, as its member. An old chapel, 
 now a market-house, and a granite 
 cross, are the only curiosities ; but in 
 the neighbourhood of the village there 
 are no less than 6 camps on the Fal. 
 One, of an irregular shape, is on 
 Golden farm, 1 m. S., on the rt. 
 bank ; a second on the St. Austell 
 road, -J m. N.E. ; a third on the Truro 
 road, 1 m. W.; a fourth, of a quadran- 
 gular form, 1 m. N. and close to the 
 
 l. bank ; a fifth, called Resugga Castle, 
 on the same side of the river, a little 
 further N. ; and a sixth, which is 
 circular, on Barrow Down, 1 m. W. of 
 Resugga. Grampound is the near- 
 est point on the high road to 
 
 Giant Tr eg eagle's Quoits , on the 
 shore, about 9 m. distant. (For 
 them and for Veryan Beacon see 
 Rte. 24.) 
 
 In Cuby Ch. at Tregony, 2-J m. S. 
 from Grampound, is a Norman font 
 of the Cornish type. In this village 
 also are some trifling remains of a 
 castle which is said to have been 
 built by Henry de Pomeroy when 
 Richard I. was in the Holy Land. 
 Tregony was an ancient borough 
 sending members to Parliament in 
 the reign of Edw. I. The Pome- 
 roys seem to have acquired it by 
 the marriage of Joel de Pomeroy 
 with the natural d. of Hen. I. — sister 
 of Reginald, E. of Cornwall. Trc- 
 warthenick (Gordon W. F. Gregor, 
 Esq.) is a handsome seat on the 
 neighbouring hills. 
 
 3 m. W. of Tregony is Euan 
 Lanihorne, of which Whitaker the an- I 
 tiquary was for 30 years rector, his 
 remains being interred in it; and 5 
 
 m. S.W, Jjamorran, with a ch, and 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 23 . — Trewithen— Probus, 
 
 367 
 
 ivied tower of a priory, washed by 
 the waters of Lamorran Creek , and 
 opposite the ch. an ancient granite 
 cross. A painted window inserted 
 in Lamorran ch. 1858 represents the 
 leading events in the life of our 
 Saviour. In the parish of Ruan 
 Lanihorn there were till quite lately 
 the remains of two castle towers on 
 the shore of the creek below the 
 church. The history of the castle is 
 unknown — the yard wall yet exists. 
 
 Bej^ond Grampound road the rail- 
 way passes 1. 
 
 Trewithen - (the place of trees), the 
 
 seat of C. H. T. Hawkins, Esq., 
 nephew of its former proprietor, Sir 
 Christopher Hawkins, Bart. This 
 old house stands on high ground, 
 and commands an extensive panora- 
 ma of wild hills. It contains among 
 other pictures a genuine sketch of 
 Charles I. on horseback by Vandyke, 
 of which there is a duplicate in Buck- 
 ingham Palace. Part of this estate 
 has the poetical name of Golden 
 Farm , which, however, is not de- 
 rived from the autumnal tints of the 
 woods, or the treasures of a stream- 
 work, but from an old Roman Catho- 
 lic family. There is a tradition of a 
 Roman Catholic priest having been 
 hidden in the house at Golden, 
 caught at last, and executed. As 
 before stated, there are remains of 
 an encampment at Golden. 
 
 •J m. beyond Trewithen is 
 
 Probus (Inn : Hawkins Arms), 
 
 a village (pop. 1353) situated on 
 high ground, 305 ft. above the 
 level of* the sea. It is well known 
 for its Church (date about 1470, but re- 
 built 1862, except the tower). The 
 tower is the loftiest and the most 
 beautiful in the county, and bears a 
 close resemblance to that of Mag- 
 dalen College, Oxford. It is a very 
 perfect specimen of Late Perp., yet 
 it was built in the reign of Elizabeth, 
 when Gothic architecture had well 
 nigh perished out of the land. It is 
 entirely of wrought granite, and in 
 
 every part covered with sculptured 
 devices. The height is 125 ft., and 
 the angles are supported by but- 
 tresses which, as they ascend, di- 
 minish in size, and terminate in clus- 
 ters of foliated pinnacles. There are 
 also intermediate pinnacles, which 
 give extreme lightness and elegance 
 to the structure. The ch., which has 
 Reen thoroughly restored (rebuilt), is 
 dedicated to SS. Probus and Grace, a 
 married pair, and the front of the 
 gallery, constructed of panels taken 
 in 1723 from the old rood-screen, 
 bears the following legend, which 
 has, no doubt, a reference to the 
 names of these founders of the build- 
 ing : — “ Jesus hear us, thy people, 
 and send us Grace and Good for ever.” 
 The 5th of July was probably dedi- 
 cated to these saints, as from time 
 immemorial a fair called Probus and 
 Grace has been annually held here 
 on the first Monday after this day, 
 and the following Sunday has been 
 celebrated as a feast Sunday. No- 
 thing is known of S3. Probus and 
 Grace, but during the rebuilding of 
 the body of this church, 1850, two 
 skulls were found together, built up 
 in the wall, corroborative of the tra- 
 dition of the parish that the skulls of 
 the two saints were so disposed of. 
 They were carefully reburied in the 
 church, beneath the altar. The an- 
 tiquary will find the brasses of John 
 Wulvedon (1514) and wife, with an 
 inscription, in good preservation in 
 the Golden Aisle. A font and pulpit 
 in the Perp. style, and a small win- 
 dow near the S.W. door, have been 
 lately added to the ch. as memorials. 
 The family vault of the Hawkinses is 
 in this ch. 
 
 [Proceeding from Probus by road 
 — to the rt. is Trehane, seat of the 
 Rev. William Stackhouse. The road 
 descends a long hill, and then tra- 
 verses a picturesque valley, resem- 
 bling those of Devonshire, to 
 
 2 Tresilian Bridge , where the gate- 
 
368 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro. 
 
 house of Tregothnan (Viscount Fal- 
 mouth, see post ) is passed on the 1. 
 Tresilian Bridge is historically inte- 
 resting as the place where the struggle 
 between Charles and his Pari, -was 
 brought to a close in Cornwall by the 
 surrender of the royal army to Fair- 
 fax, 1646. We here enter the long 
 straggling village of West Taphouse , 
 and for a mile skirt the shore of an 
 estuary. At one point we obtain an 
 extremely pretty view down the vista 
 of the creek, and of the woods of 
 Tregothnan rising from the margin. 
 We then leave the valley, and climb 
 the last hill towards Truro, shaded 
 by the venerable trees of Pencalenich , 
 the seat of Mrs. Vivian ; Penair , seat 
 of the late Admiral Barrington Rey- 
 nolds, is also 1. of the road ; and 
 Polwhele , the seat of the old family 
 of that name. Tresawsen , a farm- 
 house in the parish of Mertjier , was 
 formerly in the possession of the 
 Hals family, and for some time the 
 abode of William Hals , author of the 
 ‘ Parochial History of Cornwall.’ 
 
 3f Truro. Upon entering it, Tregolls , 
 the residence of the late Sir S. T. 
 Spry, will be observed on the 1.] 
 
 The railway, crossing several feed- 
 ers of the Falmouth river, reaches 
 
 53f m. Truro. 
 
 (The line is continued to Falmouth 
 by Penryn; see Rte. 26.) 
 
 Truro {Inns: Tedder’s Royal 
 
 Hotel ; Lenderyou’s Red Lion 
 Hotel: pop.( 11,337) is pleasantly 
 situated, and is considered the me- 
 tropolis of Cornwall, though Bod- 
 min is the county town. It is 
 seated in a valley at the junction of 
 2 streams with an inlet of the sea, 
 called the Truro River , which joins 
 the Fal near Tolverne Ferry. The 
 name Truro is probably Tre-riu or 
 Tref-riu, i.e. town-place on a declivity. 
 (A village in Carnarvonsh. has the 
 same name.) Others derive the name 
 of the town from Tru-ru , the Three 
 Streets , while Borlase explains it as 
 Tre-vur, the town on the (Roman) road. 
 
 The Earls of Cornwall had a castle 
 here. This building is mentioned 
 by Leland (temp. Hen. VIII.) as 
 “ now clere down,” but the scarped 
 mound where it stood may be seen to 
 this day (on the high ground at the top 
 of Pydar-street,to thel.). It is crowned 
 by a modern circular w 7 all, surrounded 
 by a circular terrace, arrangements 
 which render it probable that this 
 castle resembled Launceston in plan. 
 Truro stands in the centre of a min- 
 ing district, and largely exports 
 the ore. It was formerly one of 
 the coinage towns for tin, and the 
 old Coinage Hall of the 15th centv., 
 which has been pulled down, served 
 for some years as the court of the 
 vice-warden of the Stannaries, who 
 now adjudicates on mining matters in 
 the Town Hall, a handsome modern 
 Italian building. The Cornish Bank 
 adjoining it, an edifice in the Pointed 
 English style, has been erected on 
 the site of the Coinage Hall. 
 
 The very valuable library of the 
 late Bp. of Exeter (Philpotts), given 
 by him for the use of the clergy of 
 Cornwall, is placed at Truro, and 
 was opened in 1871. 
 
 East Huel Rose , i.e. east works on 
 the rhos or moor , near Truro, was 
 one of the largest lead-mines in the 
 county. Huel G arras is celebrated 
 for having at one time produced 100 
 oz. of silver for every ton of lead. 
 
 The Church of St. Mary is a hand- 
 some specimen of the Perp. of Hen. 
 VII.’s time, the old part built chiefly 
 of Roborough stone. The tower and 
 spire are modern. There are 9 win- 
 dows of stained glass, and the whole 
 building has been improved and 
 restored of late years. (A part of one 
 of the aisles has been pulled down and 
 rebuilt, so as to enlarge the street, in 
 a sloping direction, which has a 
 singular effect.) See a monument 
 dated 1636 in the chancel, with an in- 
 scription recording the singular ad- 
 ventures of “ Owen Fitz-Pen, alias 
 Phippen,” a native of Dorsetshire, 
 who captured an Algerine ship op 
 
Route 23. — Truro: Institutions . 
 
 309 
 
 Cornwall. 
 
 board which he was a slave, and 
 carried it into Carthagena, where he 
 sold it for 6000/., and settled in Corn- 
 wall with the money. At the E. end of 
 the town are the Church of St. Paul and 
 St. John , and at the W. end St. George’s 
 Church , schools, and parsonage, a 
 group of buildings completed 1858. 
 
 The Royal Institution of Cornwall 
 
 (establ. 1818), a society which has 
 published in its Reports many valu- 
 able papers relating to the curiosities 
 of the county, meets at Truro in the 
 autumn. The Lecture-room and Mu- 
 seum (once the mansion of the Vi- 
 vians, a, very old Cornish family) 
 are in Pydar-street, and the latter 
 is well worth seeing. Among other 
 things it contains a collection of 
 Cornish birds , including some rare 
 specimens. One of the most curious 
 is a cormorant strangled by a conger 
 eel, taken in Looe Harbour. In 
 seizing the fish the bird struck its 
 lower mandible through the upper 
 lip of the conger, and, being unable 
 to swallow it or to disentangle itself, 
 was, after a struggle, strangled by 
 the coils of the eel round its neck. 
 Here also are Cabinets of Cornish 
 minerals and fossils; numerous an- 
 tiquities which have been found in 
 the neighbourhood, including some 
 portions of the old ch. of St. Piran 
 (see post) ; a number of foreign birds, 
 mostly East Indian; skulls of the 
 Ceylonese, believed to be the only 
 examples of the kind in England; 
 and specimens of 2 varieties of the 
 elephant of Assam. Among the an- 
 tiquities are — a block of tin dredged 
 up near St. Mawes in Falmouth 
 Plarbour, illustrating the most an- 
 cient mode of its preparation (see St. 
 Mawes , Rte. 26, where it is noticed 
 more at length) ; a block of so-called 
 “Jew's house ” tin in shape of one 
 third of a sugar loaf, cut through 
 vertically (this was the medieval 
 method of preparation) ; bronze 
 armlets from a barrow near Peninnis 
 Head, St. Mary’s, Sicily ; and (espe- 
 
 cially noticeable) two gold orna- 
 ments and a bronze celt, found at 
 Harlyn, near Padstow, in 1863. 
 These ornaments — gorgets or “ lu- 
 nulse ” as they have been called — 
 are of great rarity. One, now in 
 the Brit. Mus., is figured in Lyson’s 
 Cornwall ; another was found some 
 years since at St. J uliot ; and there 
 ^seems to be one other instance of 
 such a discovery in Cornwall, where 
 alone in this country they have been 
 found. Many have occurred in 
 Ireland, and it is suggested that they 
 were introduced from that country. 
 Others have been found in Brittany. 
 They are of very pure gold, with 
 linear ornaments, zigzagged and 
 lozenge shaped. Their use, or the 
 manner in which they were worn is 
 altogether conjectural. 
 
 The Museum is open to the public 
 on the afternoons of Monday, Wed- 
 nesday, and Saturday free. On 
 other days, or before 2 o’clock the 
 admission fee is 6d. 
 
 Maps of the antiquities in the 
 Central and Land’s End districts of 
 Cornwall (price Is.), and a list of 
 antiquities in W. Cornwall, with re- 
 ferences and illustrations, by J. T. 
 Blight (Is.) may )De had from the 
 Curator. 
 
 The County Library , established in 
 1792, long occupied a portion of the 
 ground-floor of the same house. It 
 has been removed to the Town Hall. 
 
 The Royal Cornwall Horticultural 
 Society established in Truro, is in 
 effect extinct; but the botanist will 
 find in its hortus siccus (in the same 
 house as the Royal Institution) most 
 of the plants indigenous to the 
 county. 
 
 Foote , the comedian ; Polwhele, au- 
 thor of a history of Cornwall and 
 Devon ; and Richard and John Lander , 
 the explorers of the Niger, were 
 natives of this town. To com- 
 memorate the exploits of the Landers, 
 a granite Doric column, surmounted 
 by a statue by Burnard, the Cornish 
 sculptor, has been erected in Lemon- 
 r 3 
 
370 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 street. The house in which Foote 
 was born, on the N. side of Bos- 
 cawen-street, is now the Bed Lion 
 Hotel. The late Lord Vivian was 
 also a native of Truro, as well as 
 Henry Martyn , the missionary, b. 
 1781 ; Thomas Haweis , M.D., one of 
 the founders of the London Mission- 
 ary Soc., b. 1734; and Henry Bone , 
 K.A., the miniature-painter, who was 
 born here in 1755: Henry Martyn, 
 the missionary, who translated the 
 N. T. into Persian, died of fever or 
 plague in Persia 1812, and was the 
 son of a miner. A very clear 
 rivulet flows through the town, and 
 is led in streamlets through al- 
 most every street and alley. In the 
 neighbourhood are several seats. On 
 the London road, Tregolls , Sir Samuel 
 Spry; Penair , Lady Reynolds; Pen - 
 calc nick, Mrs. Vivian ; and Trcgothnan , 
 Viscount Falmouth. On the road to 
 Helston, Killiow , Rev. John Daubuz; 
 a n, late Admiral Spry; and 
 
 Carclcw, Capt. Trengage, Polwhele, 
 where Col. Polwhele, son of the 
 county historian, resides, is situated 
 lA m. N., on the road to St. Erme 
 and Mitchell. 
 
 In the town or its immediate vici- 
 nity you will find paper-mills and 
 iron-foundries ; and at Garras Wharf, 
 at Carredras , on the Redruth road, and 
 at Calenich, on the old Falmouth road, 
 tin smelting-houses. The churchyard 
 of Kcnxryn , 1 m. N.W. >n the road to 
 Perrauzabuloe, commands a very in- 
 teresting view of the surrounding 
 country'. 
 
 St. Clement* s Church , 2 m. E. of 
 Truro, is beautifully situated on the 
 shore of the Tresilian Creek. The 
 Polwhele aisle (or transept rather) is 
 of the 13th cent. At the Vicarage the 
 antiquary will find one of the oldest 
 of the Cornish crosses. It is called 
 the Isnioc Cross , and the following 
 inscription is engraved upon it in an 
 abbreviated form : " Isniocus V Halts 
 Filius Torrici.” (Borlase considered 
 this cross to be the memorial of a 
 Romano-Brithh Christian of the 4th 
 
 or 5th century.) It is a pleasant 
 walk to St. Clement’s ch. by Malpas 
 and the shore of St. Clement’s Creek. 
 
 The Tmro River presents some 
 beautiful scenery. One of the prettiest 
 parts is at King Harry’s Passage, 
 across to the district of Roseland, 
 i.e. Rhosland — moorland — consisting 
 of the parishes of Veryan, Gerrans, 
 Philleigh, St. Just, and St. Anthony. 
 (See Rte. 25.) Below Malpas — 
 “ smooth passage” — a very common 
 name in Wales, pronounced Mopus 
 (2 m.), the 1. bank is enriched with 
 the woods of Trcgothnan , Viscount 
 Falmouth. The house, built by 
 Wilkins in the Tudor style, con- 
 tains among other pictures some 
 works by Opie, and portraits of the 
 great Duke of Marlborough, George 
 Prince of Denmark, Queen Anne, 
 and their son the young Duke of 
 Gloucester. The road from the 
 lodge-gate runs a long distance 
 through the park, which is enlivened 
 by herds of deer, and occupies a 
 range of hills bounded by the rivers 
 Truro and Fal. The rookery at Tre- 
 gothnan is worth seeing. It is of 
 great extent ; and the birds come 
 here from long distances — even from 
 the Land’s-end. It is never mo- 
 lested. Below Tregothnan the latter 
 river joins the stream, and both 
 shores are clothed with wood, that 
 on the rt. forming the grounds of 
 Trelissic, residence of the Hon. Mrs. 
 Gilbert. Below Trelissic the river 
 expands and loses its name in the 
 Roadstead of Carrick , the main branch 
 of Falmouth Harbour. The Church 
 of St. Michael Penkivcl (Pen-kivel, 
 Headland of the Horse , to distinguish 
 from many other St. Michaels in the 
 county), near the 1. bank of the Truro 
 river, was a fine structure of the 14th 
 centy., but having fallen into decay, 
 it was ( 1802) entirely rebuilt by 
 Lord Falmouth, under the direc- 
 tion of Mr. Street. It contained in 
 the tower a curious oratory with stone 
 altar, which has been replaced. 2 
 
Cornwall. Route 23 . — Truro : Ruins of St. Piran’s Church. 371 
 
 other chantry altars, with tombs and 
 sedilia of the 14th centy., have been 
 preserved, one at the end of each tran- 
 sept. In the body of the building is a 
 monument to the memory of Admiral 
 Boscawen, by Rysbrach; another to 
 his wife, remarkable for its quotation 
 from ‘ Boswell’s Life of Johnson ’ as 
 to her character ; and a tablet, date 
 1515, which teaches you to 
 
 “ Pray for the soule>f Master John Trem- 
 bras, 
 
 Master of Artes, and late parson of this 
 church.” 
 
 Truro is generally the starting- 
 point for an excursion to the ruins of 
 the Church of St. Piran — memorials, 
 which, lost for 10 centuries, were ex- 
 posed to view in 1835 by the shifting 
 of the sand which had been blown 
 over them. They are still interesting 
 — indeed the site alone is so ; — but 
 since 1835 they have suffered terribly 
 at the hands of explorers and such 
 tourists as love to carry off a so-called 
 memorial of their visit The ch. is 
 situated in the parish of Perranzabu- 
 loe, on the N. coast, and distant from 
 Truro about 8 m. A wild, dreary 
 road leads over the hills to Perran 
 Porth (an Inn , Ty warnhayle Arms), a 
 small bathing-place in a sandy cove, 
 bounded on the E. by the solitary 
 district in which St. Piran’s ch. was 
 buried. For many miles in that di- 
 rection the coast has been desolated 
 by sand, which, from time to time 
 blown inland from the shore, has 
 been slowly accumulated. Camden, 
 Norden, Carew, and Borlase bear 
 witness to its encroachment in dif- 
 ferent years, and the name of the 
 parish — Perranzcibuloe , or Perran in 
 s tbulo — is presumptive evidence as to 
 the character of the district at a re- 
 mote period. (All this sand is blown 
 in through a narrow crevice in the 
 rocky clitf ; and it would appear that 
 a few yds. of strong stone wall filling 
 up this crevice would have saved 
 hundreds of acres from destruction.) 
 The arundo arenaria , planted to bind 
 
 and fix the mass, occasionally a speci- 
 men of convolvulus soldanella , a thin, 
 mossy vegetation in the hollows, and 
 rabbits countless as the sands them- 
 selves, are the only living objects that 
 enliven it. The ruins of St. Piran’s ch. 
 are about 2 m. from the Porth, in the 
 heart of these sandy dunes, and the re- 
 mains of another ch. of less ancient 
 date, and a 4-hole cross, are in their 
 immediate vicinity. A direct scramble 
 across the sands will be found labo- 
 rious ; the better plan is to skirt 
 them ; but the stranger will expe- 
 rience difficulty in finding the ruins 
 without a guide. (The visitor should 
 ask for the hamlet of Rose — the nearest 
 to the churches — where he will ob- 
 tain a guide. An old man named 
 Kitto, who lives (or lived) there, was 
 present at the disinterment of the 
 oldest ch. The district is a Yevy 
 puzzling one ; and the stranger who 
 depends on his unassisted powers of 
 discovery runs a great risk of leaving 
 without having seen the first ch. at, 
 all. The following directions may 
 however be given : — If coming from 
 the S., enter on the sands by a road 
 near a farm called Gear , which leads 
 northward to Penhale mine. In little 
 more than \ m. the road strikes a 
 stream coming from a mine just on 
 the 1., and, following it for a very 
 short distance, the road turns to the 
 1., up the sandhills, the stream pre- 
 sently bending rt. and escaping from 
 the sands near Ellenglaze. Half-way 
 along the united course of the road 
 and stream is a small green plain, 
 terminated W. by a low ridge. The 
 ruins of the ch. lie just over the S. 
 end of this ridge. If approaching 
 from the N., follow the stream up 
 from Ellenglaze, and almost at once 
 after it strikes the road, you enter 
 the plain just mentioned. The fol- 
 lowing legend is supposed to explain 
 the origin of this curious little shrine. 
 At the end of the 4th centy. St. 
 Patrick visited Cornwall on a cru- 
 sade against Druidism, and, finding 
 his efforts successful, returned to Ire- 
 
372 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 Sect. IT. 
 
 land, where, consecrating 12 bishops, 
 he sent them over to complete the 
 good work. St. Piran was one of 
 these. He is said to have crossed the 
 sea on a mill-stone, and, landing at 
 St. Ives, proceeded E. 18 m., where 
 he settled, built his cell and began 
 his ministry. v Such is the legendary 
 account of St. Piran’ s settlement in 
 Cornwall. (There are two legendary 
 lives of St. Piran — otherwise called 
 Kieran — in Colgan, ‘ Acta Sane. Hi- 
 bernise, I'; and another in Capgrave , 
 ‘ Nov. Leg. Anglise ’.) The distance 
 he is said to have travelled from St. 
 Ives would have carried him among 
 the miners of St. Agnes. He is now 
 considered the especial guardian of 
 tinners, and has from time immemo- 
 rial been annually feted by these 
 people on the 5th of March. His 
 name is sometimes corrupted into 
 Picras or Picrous, unless this is 
 another saint who has been con- 
 founded with him. “ Picrous’ day,” 
 the Thursday before Christmas, is 
 a great holiday among the tinners. 
 St. Piran had a companion named 
 Chywidden ; and, together, they are 
 regarded as the first discoverers of 
 tin. St. “Chywidden” seems to 
 represent the “ smelting-house ” — 
 “ white house,” which his name signi- 
 fies (see Int rod ., * Mines’) .St. Piran 
 • — whose name may be derived from 
 a Cymric root par = to raise, to dig — 
 is perhaps, as Professor Max Muller 
 suggests, a personification or “apothe- 
 osis” of the miner (see Chips , vol. iii.). 
 The saint is said to have died some 
 time in the 5th centy., and then, it is 
 concluded, a ch., according to the 
 Custom of the Celtic Christians, was 
 built over his remains. For about 2 
 centuries this building was probably 
 used for the rites of religion, and an- 
 tiquaries conjecture that it was sub- 
 merged by sand either in the 8th or 
 9th centy., but many years before the 
 complete subjection of Cornwall by 
 the English. After the sand had 
 covered the 1st building, the 2nd ch. 
 was in all probability erected, as near 
 
 as possible to the spot consecrated as 
 the burial-place of the saint, but pro- 
 tected from the sand by a stream of 
 water, which experience had shown 
 would arrest its progress. This edi- 
 fice remained safe for ages, and was 
 considered in such security in 1420 
 that it was rebuilt on a larger scale. 
 For another centy. the sands were held 
 in subjection, but, the stream having 
 been diverted by some mining opera- 
 tions, they were once more free to pur- 
 sue their desolating career, and soon 
 menaced the building with destruc- 
 tion. Borlase, in the middle of the 
 last centy., briefly remarks, “The 
 2nd ch. is in no small danger;” and 
 so rapid was the accumulation of 
 the sand that parishioners now alive 
 remember the porch having been 
 buried in a single night. The dan- 
 ger at length appeared so imminent 
 that the inhabitants were obliged to 
 remove’ the building. In 1803 the 
 tower, windows, and porch were 
 taken down, and the ch. erected 
 again at a distance of 2 m. The tra- 
 dition of the old ch. was still pre- 
 served, when in 1835 the shifting 
 sand disclosed the long-lost relic ; 
 human efforts aided the exhumation, 
 and at length the little edifice, with 
 its adjoining baptistery, stood forth 
 perfect as on the day on which they 
 were overwhelmed. In the winter 
 the* spring of St. Piran, its course 
 being choked with sand, forms a 
 small lake, and rises in the build- 
 ing to the height of G ft. The ch. 
 lies nearly E. and W., its extreme 
 length being 29 ft. and breadth IGA ft. 
 j The principal entrance was on the S. 
 side, a small arched doorway of pri- 
 mitive construction, surrounded by a 
 curious cable-moulding, and orna- 
 1 raented with 3 heads rudely chiselled 
 in a soft stone. It was unfortunately 
 destroyed within a fortnight after the 
 discovery of the building. The heads 
 and a few stones of the moulding are 
 now in the museum at Truro. (It has 
 been questioned by competent au- 
 thority whether these heads, 2 of 
 
Cornwall. Route 23. — Truro: Ruins of St. PirarCs Church. 373 
 
 which terminated a dripstone over the 
 door, are earlier than the 12th centy. 
 The 3rd head seems to have been in 
 the centre, over the door, as is com- 
 mon in Norm, dripstones.) The 
 steps by which the doorway was en- 
 tered remain, and are much worn. 
 On the same side of the ch. was a 
 rude window, within the head of 
 which a stone was laid across to sup- 
 port the weight of the wall, although 
 the radiating stones, which formed 
 the arch, appeared to uphold the pon- 
 derous mass. The N. and W. side of 
 the ch. were dead walls; that on the 
 E. was pierced with an altar window 
 and priest’s door, which fell during 
 the removal of the sand. The masonry 
 is of the rudest description. No lime 
 has been used by the builder ; china- 
 clay and sand are employed in its 
 stead, and in this the stones are em- 
 bedded without much regard to ar- 
 rangement. They consist of blocks 
 of granite, elvan, and slate, many 
 smooth and rounded as if taken from 
 the beach or the channel of a stream. 
 “ On the whole,” says Mr. Haslam, 
 “the masonry looks like that of per- 
 sons who had seen Roman work, and 
 perhaps assisted in it, without learn- 
 ing the art ; and who had seen lime 
 and used it, but without learning 
 how it was prepared for use, and 
 who pitched upon this white subs- 
 tance, china-clay, as resembling lime.” 
 The floor of the ch. consists of a hard 
 and level concrete. The altar was 
 removed in 1835, and St. Piran’s re- 
 mains (or at least some human re- 
 mains), but headless, were discovered 
 beneath it. The altar was after- 
 wards rebuilt with the same stones 
 and capped by a block of granite, 
 upon which the name of St. Piran 
 has been cut in early Roman cha- 
 racters. The head of the saint was 
 probably enshrined in the 2nd ch., 
 since the will of Sir John Arundell 
 of Trerice, dated about the time 
 when that edifice was rebuilt, contains 
 a bequest for providing the relic with 
 a handsome niche. The present con- 
 
 dition of the original structure is de- 
 plorable. The hand of curiosity has 
 proved more ruthless than the sand. 
 The N.E. and S. walls are nearly 
 level with the ground, and the sand 
 is again gathering round the ruin. 
 The remains of a cell, in front of 
 which were discovered the shells of 
 mussels and limpets with fragments 
 of pottery, are barely to be discerned 
 about 100 yds. to the S.E. The proofs 
 of the high antiquity of St. Piran’s 
 Oratory, as the building has been 
 called, are the absence of a font, the 
 baptistery being at a little distance 
 from the ch. ; the rudeness of the 
 masonry, and the substitution of 
 china-clay for lime ; the diminutive 
 size of the edifice ; the scarcity of 
 windows, and their construction; the 
 dissimilarity of the arch to Saxon 
 or Norman models ; the insertion of 
 the heads over the doorway, a pecu- 
 liarity observable in many of the 
 Celtic buildings in Ireland ; and 
 lastly, tradition, which has always 
 pointed to the spot in vrhich the lost 
 ch. of St. Piran was ultimately found. 
 To the S. of this ruin a solitary cross 
 and a few stones mark the site- of the 
 2nd ch. This old moorstone cross 
 has the peculiarity of having the 
 holes in the disk occupying the usual 
 position of the limbs of the cross, 
 thus making the solid stone into the 
 shape of the cross of St. Andrew. 
 The surface is here thinly spread 
 with turf, and the sand is fixed, but 
 it covers the floor of the building to 
 a depth of 19 ft. In the N. and E. 
 it may still be seen in its naked deso- 
 lation, shifting with the wind, and 
 traversing the hills in cloud-like 
 masses. Around both churches the 
 soil is whitened by human bones, 
 their sacred precincts having been 
 long used as a burial-ground. (The 
 existing Church of Perranzabuloe, 
 consec. in 1805, is said to have, in the 
 nave, the piers, arches, and windows 
 removed from this 2nd ch. The font 
 is Norman.) 
 
 Perran Round (which may be visited 
 
374 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 23 . — Plymouth to Truro . 
 
 on your road to Perran Porth) is situ- 
 ated by the side of the Truro road 
 about lj m. N. of the church-town of 
 Perranzdbuloe , and, with the exception 
 of the amphitheatre at Dorchester, is 
 the most perfect relic of the kind in 
 England. It consists of an area 130 ft. 
 in diam., encircled by an earthen bank 
 about lu ft. high and 7 broad at the 
 top, divided into 7 rows of steps for 
 a standing audience. This “ Round,” 
 it is conjectured, was used by the 
 Britons of “West Wales” either as 
 a court of justice or a theatre for 
 the exhibition of feats of agility ‘and 
 strength, such as wrestling, and was 
 certainly employed by the Cornish 
 of later days for the performance of 
 Miracle Plays, a species of composi- 
 tion of which the 3 most remarkable 
 specimens remaining in the Cornish 
 language were edited and translated 
 by Mr. Edwin Norris in 1859 (see 
 Introd.). The Round is capable of 
 containing about 2000 spectators. A 
 pit in the enclosure communicates by 
 a trench with an oval recess in the 
 bank ; and this antiquaries pronounce 
 to have been the “ green-room,” to 
 which the actors retired. 
 
 St. Agnes * Beacon (called locally 
 St. Ann’s Beacon), alt. 621 ft., rises 
 about 4 m. W. of Perranzabuloe, and 
 is remarkable for a deposit of sands 
 and clays, in some places 40 ft. in 
 thickness, occurring at an elevation 
 of from 300 to 400 ft. above the 
 present sea-level. Sir H. De la Beche 
 was inclined to consider it a remnant 
 of some super-cretaceous deposit. 
 The clay is extensively employed by 
 the miners, who throughout Corn- 
 wall use a lump of this substance for 
 a candlestick. During the French war 
 a signal guard was stationed at the 
 summit of this hill, on the look-out 
 for invaders, and ready to arouse the 
 country by a bonfire. Tin-lodes may 
 be traced along the sea-front. 
 
 The cliff-scenery between Perran 
 Porth and the Beacon is highly in- 
 teresting. Guarded by immense 
 
 rocks of killas — the local term for 
 clay-slate — the coast seems to defy 
 the impetuosity of the sea itself. 
 There is, however, no part of Corn- 
 wall where the destructive influence 
 of the waves is so well illustrated. 
 The slate is in a ruinous condition, 
 and presents a perfect chaos of crags 
 and chasms. At the Cligga Head, 1 
 m. W. of Perran Porth, bands of a 
 hard and decomposed granite alter- 
 nate. An elvan issues from them, and 
 may be seen on the cliff at several 
 points until it strikes inland a short 
 distance W. of Trevaunance Porth. 
 
 St. Agnes is a tin-mining district, 
 and distinguished as the birthplace 
 of the painter Opie (his real name 
 was Hoppie), who was the son of 
 the village carpenter. Many of his 
 productions may be found in the 
 mansions of the Cornish gentry ; and 
 the house in which he was born, 
 1761, is still standing, 2 m. from the 
 church-town, on the road to Perran 
 Porth. It is called Harmony Cot, 
 and is now occupied by a relation of 
 the artist. Opie’s genius was first 
 noticed by Dr. Wolcott(Peter Pindar), 
 when residing at Truro. St. Agnes’ 
 Ch. has been rebuilt from the plans 
 of Mr. Wm. White, and is worth a 
 visit. A small ch. by the same 
 architect has been built at Mitliian. 
 
 Trevaunance Porth is a wild cove 
 under the E. side of St. Agnes’ Bea- 
 con. Repeated attempts having been 
 made to construct a pier at this ex- 
 posed place, a company of gentle- 
 men (1794) erected the present 
 structure, which is of granite, and 
 cost 10,000/. 2 m. from the shore 
 
 are the Man and his Man, a couple of 
 the most conspicuous rocks on the N . 
 coast of Cornwall. The name is 
 doubtless a corruption of mam or 
 men, a stone. 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 375 
 
 Route 24 . — Plymouth to Falmouth. 
 
 ROUTE 24. 
 
 PLYMOUTH (RAME HEAD) TO PAL- 
 
 MOUTH, BY LOOE, FOWEY, AND ST, 
 
 AUSTELL (THE SOUTH COAST). 
 
 Steamers run from Plymouth to 
 Falmouth and Penzance many times 
 a week. The coast of Cornwall is 
 well seen from them ; but they touch 
 at Mevagissey only between Ply- 
 mouth and Falmouth. The places of 
 interest on the coast are best seen by 
 following the road described in the 
 present route, or by visiting them 
 from the chief stations on the rail- 
 way — Liskeard (for Looe), Lostwi- 
 thiel (for Fowey), St. Austell (for 
 Mevagissey and Very an Bay), and 
 Truro (for the creeks of the Fal- 
 mouth river). 
 
 The road crosses the Hamoaze by 
 ferry to Torpoint , as in Rte. 23. From 
 Torpoint the traveller can proceed 
 to Looe either by the very hilly car- 
 riage-road, 18 m., or by a bridle-road, 
 about 14 m., through Antony and 
 Lower Tregantle , and near the cliffs of 
 Whitesand Bay. [At Tregantle the 
 most important of the western de- 
 fences of Plymouth has been con- 
 structed (see Plymouth, Rte. 7). A 
 peninsula is formed by the Lynher 
 river (which runs to the Hamoaze), 
 the neck of which from the river 
 to Whitsand Bay is about 2 m. in 
 breadth. Here 2 new forts have 
 been completed— Screasdon on the 
 river, and Tregantle by the sea. 
 
 The latter, 400 ft. above the sea- 
 level, looks across the peninsula to 
 Devonport Dockyard. The guns 
 (100) mounted here are of the largest 
 range and heaviest metal, and com- 
 mand every conceivable approach to 
 the harbour. The keep, an im- 
 mense mass of masonry, stands 
 between the battery and the bar- 
 racks. The ground between the 
 fort and the sea has been levelled 
 so as to form an incline, which, 
 in case of attack, would be swept 
 by guns in the recesses of the fort. 
 Screasdon Fort, about lj m. distant, 
 mounts 40 guns and mortars.] The 
 carriage-road is that to Liskeard 
 as far as the head of the Lynher 
 estuary, which terminates at the 
 picturesque hamlet of Polbathick, 8j 
 m. from Torpoint and 1 m. from 
 St. Germans. From the pretty val- 
 ley beyond Polbathick the Looe road 
 branches off on the 1., ascending 
 through a wooded coomb to very high 
 ground, and then descending abruptly 
 to the retired village of Hessenford 
 {Inn : Cornish Arms), delightfully 
 situated in a deep and wooded bot- 
 tom, on a stream (called the Seaton 
 river — it enters the sea near a farm 
 of that name) which flows from 
 the Bodmin moors by St. Cleer. 
 From this point the road again 
 climbs a long fatiguing hill, and 
 passes for some distance over elevated 
 land to its junction with the road 
 from Liskeard to Looe. There it 
 turns toward the sea, commanding 
 on the rt. a view of the woods of 
 Morval House (John Francis Buller, 
 Esq.), and soon ascends to the ch. of 
 St. Martin, near the summit of the 
 ridge which shelters the romantic 
 town and inlet of Looe (see post). 
 
 The bridle-road from Torpoint 
 passes through Antony to Lower 
 Tregantle about 4 m. In the cliff 
 near the hamlet of Higher Tregantle, 
 a short distance E., is a cavern called 
 Lugger* s Cave or Sharrow Grot. It was 
 excavated by a lieutenant in the navy 
 of the name of Lugger, who, during 
 
370 
 
 Sect. IT. 
 
 Route 24.— Plymouth to Falmouth . 
 
 the American War, being stationed 
 near the spot, and sorely troubled by 
 the gout, undertook the work as a 
 means of cure. The cavern in itself 
 possesses no particular interest, but 
 it commands a delightful view over 
 the broken shore and outspread waters 
 of the bay. About 3 m. from this 
 cave is the well-known promontory 
 of the 
 
 Rame Head (Ruim, Brit., a headland. 
 This was the Brit, name of the Isle 
 of Thanet), which, projecting into 
 the Channel from Maker Heights (402 
 ft. above the sea), constitutes the S.E. 
 point of the county, and the termina- 
 tion of a semicircular range of cliffs 
 which sweep eastward from Looe 
 along the margin of Whitesand Bay. 
 These cliffs here bend to the N., 
 girding the shore of Plymouth Sound. 
 The headland is crowned with the 
 ruin of a chapel (ded. to St. Michael 
 — it is without architectural features), 
 and commands a view of the Cornish 
 coast as far W. as the Lizard. (About 
 100 yds. W. of the extreme point of 
 Rame Head, Mr. Pengelly found, 
 1852, the “ Polperro fossils ” (see 
 post), “confined to about 10 yds. in 
 length, of one thin stratum ”.) The 
 lighthouse on the Eddystone {Devon, 
 Rte. 7) rises from the distant waves, 
 and the woods of Mount Edgcumbe 
 crown the adjoining hills. Inland, 
 about 1 m. from Rame Head, is Rame 
 Church , a Dec. building, not unlike 
 the ch. of Sheviock (Rte. 23), with 
 W. tower and spire, and an ancient 
 reredos. The tower of Maker Church 
 is a conspicuous object in this neigh- 
 bourhood, and the view from it is 
 unrivalled. The church, in itself 
 of no great interest, contains several 
 monuments to the Edgcumbes and 
 other families, and from its com- 
 manding position the tower was em- 
 ployed during the French war as a 
 signal station communicating with 
 Mount Wise at Devonport. It is 2 
 m. from Devonport. When Dodinan 
 and Rame Head meet, is a West Coun- 
 
 try proverb denoting an impossibility. 
 Dodman is the W. point of Very an 
 Bay. 
 
 The desecrated clmpel of St. Juliet 
 (S. Julitta, mother of St. Cyrus) at 
 Inceworth , in Maker parish, has 
 beautiful Dec. details. There is an 
 undercroft used as a stable. 
 
 E. on the shore of the Sound lie 
 the villages of Kingsand and Caw- 
 sand, separated by a gutter, and at 
 one time noted places for smuggling. 
 Cawsand Bay, being sheltered by the 
 Rame Head from westerly gales, was 
 used as the principal anchorage pre- 
 vious to the construction of the Break- 
 water. (A wide new military road 
 has been constructed from Cawsand 
 along the cliffs as far as Tregantle 
 Fort, which the tourist may, if he 
 pleases, follow. It commands very 
 grand views over Whitesand Bay.) 
 From these villages there ranges 
 towards Redding Point a porphyritic 
 rock, which Sir H. De la Beche was 
 inclined to refer to the era of the 
 lower part of the new red sandstone, 
 a formation prevailing ifi the E. of 
 Devon. It throws out veins into 
 the grauwacke, some of which are 
 traversed by the same lines of lami- 
 nation as the latter rock, a circum- 
 stance which would seem to throw 
 some light upon the date of the la- 
 mination of the grauwacke. 
 
 Whitesand Bay, so called from the 
 whiteness of the sand, abounds in 
 beautiful and romantic coast scenery, 
 but is justly dreaded by sailors as the 
 scene of many a fatal disaster. The 
 beach and cliff afford abundant 
 matter for the naturalist. From 
 Lower Tregantle the distance to Looe 
 is about 10 m., and the traveller can 
 proceed for some way along the Batten 
 Cliffs by a bridle-path. 
 
 18 m. from Torpoint. — Looe. ( Inns : 
 Ship Hotel ; Swan Inn.) This fish- 
 ing-town, divided by the estuary of 
 the same name into E. and W. Looe 
 (pop. together, 1924), is a small 
 place romantically situated in a deep 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 j Route 24 . — Looe : Excursions . 
 
 377 
 
 recess, the acclivities above it being 
 hung with gardens, in which the 
 myrtle, hydrangea, and geranium 
 flourish the year round in the open 
 air. It is an old-fashioned town, 
 which has descended to us, not very 
 greatly changed, from the time of 
 Edward I. It is intersected by nar- 
 row lanes, and, before the new road 
 was made along the water-side, was 
 approached from the eastward by so 
 steep a path that travellers were in 
 fear of being precipitated upon the 
 roofs. Some of the little tenements 
 have external wooden stairs leading 
 to n doorway in the upper storey. 
 The estuary, confined by lofty hills, 
 was long spanned by an antique nar- 
 row bridge of 1 5 arches of as many 
 shapes and sizes (built about 1400. 
 There was an oratory on the bridge, 
 ded. to St. Anne); but that pictu- 
 resque structure has been replaced 
 by one less interesting, although more 
 commodious. The towns (ancient 
 boroughs) of East and West Looe 
 are quite worth a short visit from 
 those in search of the picturesque. 
 The streets remind one of the small 
 towns on the shore of the Mediter- 
 ranean, except that those are filthy 
 while these of Looe are very clean. 
 Fixed up in the porch at the front of 
 the town hall at East Looe are the 
 remains of the pillory, one of the 
 i very few in England. The Perp. ch. 
 tower is picturesque, but the main 
 building is modern, of the 44 pre- 
 Gothic” period. The little chapel 
 of West Looe, dedicated to St. Ni- 
 cholas, has (1862) been rescued from 
 desecration and restored by the 
 Buller family and the incumbent ; 
 (Col. Somers Cocks, Hon. Architect). 
 It has a pretty ch.-like aspect on 
 a very humble scale. Until lately it 
 served as the town-hall , and was used 
 by strolling players. The view from 
 the sea-side presents a dark array 
 of sombre cliffs, and a rocky islet 
 170 ft. high, which, once the haunt 
 of numberless sea birds, and crowned 
 by a chapel of St. George, is now 
 
 used as a station by the coast-guard. 
 At the hamlet, of Lemain , near West 
 Looe, are fragments of a cell and 
 chapel founded at some unknown 
 period, and afterwards granted to the 
 Benedictines of Glastonbury, who 
 possessed the place in 1144. Some 
 delightful excursions can be made 
 in the vicinity of Looe, such as a 
 Araik along the coast to Tolland and 
 Polperro , or in the opposite direction 
 to the shore of White sand Bay. 
 
 That to the Inlet of Trelawne Mill 
 
 is one the most worthy the stranger’s 
 attention, and may be easily ac- 
 complished in a boat. This inlet 
 opens into the Looe river immedi- 
 ately above the bridge, and furnishes 
 perhaps the most beautiful scene 
 of the kind in Cornwall — the shelv- 
 ing hills being steep and lofty, and 
 literally covered with trees from 
 the water’s edge to the summit. 
 The rt. bank belongs to Trelawne 
 (that is, Fox’s Place — Sir J. S. 
 Trelawny, Bart., an ancient seat of 
 this family), and the 1. to Trenant 
 Park , formerly the property of Mr. 
 Henry Hope, the author of 4 Anasta- 
 sius,’ but now of Wm. Peel, Esq. 
 Trelawne is a fine old house. (The 
 south wing, which was in complete 
 disrepair, has been rebuilt (1862) in 
 very good style, by Sir John Tre- 
 lawny.) 44 The chapel is of the 
 15th century, with a good open 
 timber roof restored. The windows 
 are plain late Perp., the rest ail 
 modern or modernized. The tower 
 and 2 doorways of the hall are of the 
 15th or early 16th; the hall itself is 
 modernized : the passage through 
 remains, with the doorways at each 
 end. The battlement on the hall, 
 and another small square turret at 
 the opposite end, and a good Perp. 
 buttress between the windows, should 
 be noticed. . . This house is said by 
 Lysons to have been built by Lord 
 Bonville, temp. Hen. VI.” — J. II. P. 
 (This Lord Bonville — the last of the 
 ancient family of the Bonvilles pf 
 
378 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 24 . — Plymouth to Falmouth . 
 
 Shute in Devonshire — acquired Tre- 
 lawne by the will of Sir John Herle. 
 He was beheaded, by order of Q. 
 Margaret, after the second battle of 
 St. Alban’s. His granddaughter, Lady 
 Harington, had a large dower as- 
 signed to her by Ed. IV., out of Lord 
 Bonville’s Cornish estates. Her 
 daughter brought Trelawne to Tho- 
 mas Grey, Marquis of Dorset — and 
 on the attainder of his grandson, the 
 Duke of Suffolk, it was seized by the 
 Crown. In 1600 Sir Jonathan Tre- 
 lawny bought this place from the 
 Crown, and it has since been the 
 chief seat of the family. It is not 
 however the “ Trelawne” from which 
 the “ Trelawnys ” are named. This 
 is in the par. of Alternon. See Rte. 
 21.) Here are many valuable pic- 
 tures, including two portraits of Sir 
 Jonathan Trelawny, Bishop of Win- 
 chester (see post , Pelynt ch.) one of 
 which is by Sir Godfrey Kneller . There 
 is also an original portrait of Bp. 
 Atterbury, who was chaplain to Bp. 
 Trelawny, and another of Queen 
 Eliz. when young — a gift of that 
 princess to Sir Jonathan Trelawny, 
 who was related to the royal family, 
 and purchased this estate from the 
 crown. At the head of the inlet, on 
 the wooded heights, are remains of a 
 circular encampment connected with 
 a rampart or raised bank, which ex- 
 tended from this point through Lan- 
 reath to the large earth work on Bury 
 Down, isolating a tract of country 
 on the coast. Some suppose this 
 line of defence to have been thrown 
 up by the Danes, but it is more 
 probably an ancient line of demarca- 
 tion between Saxons and Britons. 
 At Lanreath, in Borlase’s time, it 
 was 7 ft. high and 20 ft. wide. It 
 proceeds in a straight line, up and 
 down hill indifferently, for at least 
 7 miles, and is popularly called the 
 Giant's Hedge. It is of course as- 
 signed to the devil, and the local 
 saying runs — 
 
 “ One day the devil having nothing to do 
 Built a great hedge from Lerrin to Booe.” 
 
 In a field called the Warren, on the 
 estate of Kilmenorth, not far E. from 
 Trelawne and near the Giant’s Hedge, 
 is a circular stone enclosure with 2 
 entrances. Another interesting relic 
 in the valley of Trelawne is St. Non's , 
 St. Ninnie's , or Piskies 9 Well . It is 
 on the rt. bank of the river, and has 
 been restored. (St. Non was the 
 mother of St. David of Wales. She 
 has also a well at Alternon, where 
 the ch. is ded. to her (see Rte. 21). 
 
 The visitor to Looe should also 
 proceed by boat or road up the 
 course of the estuary, as far as the 
 lock, to which point the winding 
 shores present a waving sheet of fo- 
 liage. He will notice in this excur- 
 sion on the 1. bank, about 1 m. from 
 Looe, an inlet which is confined by 
 a causeway : it has the appearance 
 of a wood-encircled lake, and is bor- 
 dered by the demesne of Morval 
 House , an ancient mansion, seat of 
 J. F. Buller, Esq. (but not, as is 
 generally asserted, the birthplace of 
 Judge Buller , who was born at Downes 
 near Crediton in 1746). In earlier 
 times it had been a possession of 
 the Glynns. The ramble may be 
 extended with advantage by the 
 side of the canal to the village of 
 Sandplace , m. from Looe, where 
 
 the scenery deserves particular no- 
 tice. From this village a road as- 
 cends the opposite bank to the village 
 of Duloe , near which are the remains 
 of an ancient circle of stones (Rte. 
 23 — walk from Liskeard to Looe) ; 
 and from Duloe St. Keyne's Well 
 is not above 2 m. distant. If the 
 traveller should wish to walk from 
 Looe to Liskeard, the path by the 
 canal, 9 m. (a common course), is 
 to be preferred to the carriage-road. 
 From Moorswater down the valley 
 to Looe there is now a railway to 
 convey ore and granite to be shipped. 
 
 From the harbour of Looe there is 
 a considerable export of copper-ore 
 and granite, and during the season 
 the pilchard-fishery is actively pur- 
 sued. The remains of fossil trees 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 24 . — Looe — Tolland. 
 
 379 
 
 have been found beneath the shore 
 at a place called Millendreath , 1 m. E. 
 
 The parish ch., St. Martin's , stands 
 on high ground above E. Looe, and 
 for 34 years was the living of the 
 Rev. Jonathan Toup f editor of Lon- 
 ginus. There is a Norm, door in St. 
 Martin’s Church, nearly buried by a 
 modern porch. The font is curious, 
 of Norm, character. The ch. of 
 Pelynt , 4 m. N.W., contains monu- 
 ments and effigies of the Achyms, 
 Bullers, and Trelawnys, and the pas- 
 toral staff of Sir Jonathan Trelawny, 
 one of the 7 bishops committed to 
 the Tower by James II., and in whose 
 behalf the Cornish miners were ready 
 to march to London to the ringing 
 burden of their song — 
 
 “And shall they scorn Tre, Pol, and Pen? 
 
 And shall Trelawny die ? 
 
 Here’s twenty thousand Cornish men 
 
 Will know the reason why.” 
 
 (A “ Song of the Western men” of 
 which this is the burden, will be 
 found in the ‘ Cornish Ballads ’ of 
 the Rev. R. S. Plawker, of Morwen- 
 stow. It was written and published 
 in 1825, and so completely has the 
 author caught the spirit of the old 
 “ makers” that Sir Walter Scott, be- 
 lieving it to be ancient, has referred 
 to it, in an introduction prefixed to 
 the Border Minstrelsy, as a late and 
 fine example of the genuine “ ballad.” 
 The burden alone is old.) The staff 
 is of wood, gilt. Its copper orna- 
 ments were struck by lightning some 
 years since, and partially fused. 
 
 Pelynt 'Church was restored and 
 beautified (?) by Sir Jonathan Tre- 
 lawny so completely, that it is one 
 of the ugliest in Cornwall. The 
 tower is Dec. (Tregarrick in this 
 par. was the old seat of the Win- 
 slades, one of whom suffered death 
 as a chief leader of the Cornishmen 
 in the rising of 1549 (see Rte. 6, 
 Sampford Courtenay ). The Win- 
 slades, like the Coplestones in De- 
 vonshire, were hereditary “ Esquires 
 of the White Spur” (see Coplestone, 
 Rte. 17). The son of the Winslade 
 
 who suffered in 1549, having lost 
 his lands on his father’s attainder, 
 led, says Carew, “a walking life, 
 with his harpe, to gentlemen’s 
 houses ; wherethrough, and by his 
 other active qualities, he was en- 
 titled Sir Tristram.” Tregarrick is 
 now a farm-house.) 
 
 Proceeding from Looe towards 
 Fowey — 
 
 2 m. is Tolland , in a little bay closely' 
 invested by hills. The Church (with 
 an E. Eng. east end) stands detached 
 from its tower, which is built on 
 slightly higher ground. The ch. 
 ded. to St. Tallan (Teilo ?) has been 
 restored ; and during the “ opera- 
 tion” two series of wall paintings, 
 one above the other, were found on 
 the N. wall. The lower series was 
 in colour, and contained among other 
 subjects, a large design of the cruci- 
 fixion. In the upper series, on a 
 thin layer of plaster, covering the 
 lower, was a large figure of the evil 
 spirit, horned and hoofed as usual, 
 with a dark mantle fastened round 
 his shoulders. Unfortunately these 
 paintings were destroyed before any 
 drawings of them could be taken. 
 The Rev. Richard Dodge, Yicar of 
 Talland, d. 1746, is still famous in 
 the parish as a great “ conjuror,” by 
 whom (with the aid of a strong- 
 horsewhip) troops of turbulent spirits 
 were laid in the sea. East of the 
 ch. is the old manor-house of Killi- 
 garth , in which Sir William Beville, 
 temp. Eliz., kept alive such true 
 west country hospitality as is not yet 
 forgotten. There are Greek and 
 Latin inscriptions on the exterior ; 
 and what is now a bedroom on the 
 2nd floor, has a vaulted ceiling di- 
 vided into compartments, “ each of 
 which contains some event in the 
 history of Paradise, illustrated by 
 grotesque figures of its winged and 
 four-footed inhabitants.” A charm- 
 ing path pursues a winding course 
 along the cliffs to 
 
 ]| m. Polperro {Inn; the Ship), a 
 
380 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 24 . — Plymouth to Falmouth . 
 
 fishing village in a situation emi- 
 nently romantic, nestling, as it were, 
 on the rocky shore and ledges of an 
 inlet, which enters among the hills 
 through a fissure in a dark coast of 
 transition slate. (A very pleasant 
 4 History of Polperro/ by the late 
 Jonathan Couch, F.L.S. (1871), should 
 he consulted by the visitor. It 
 contains some curious illustrations 
 of the old usages, and of the “ pisky ” 
 and ghost lore of the district. Mr. 
 Couch — whose name is well known 
 to all naturalists — was born here 
 in 1789, and died 1870. His life 
 was passed in his native place as 
 a “country doctor.”) Polperro is 
 an ancient place, mentioned by Le- 
 land as “ a fishar towne with a 
 peere.” Some of the older houses 
 (those on the S. side of Lansallos 
 Street near the river) are worth 
 notice. The lower floor is generally 
 used as a fish-cellar, the second or 
 dwelling room being reached by a 
 flight of steps ending in a porch, 
 locally called an “ orrel ” (oriel ?). 
 The views from Chapel Hill (where 
 are some relics of a chapel ded. to 
 St. Peter, patron of fishermen — it 
 probably gave name to the place, 
 Pol Peyre = Peter’s Pool) and from 
 the top of Brent Hill, are fine and 
 interesting, looking far and wide 
 over the sea, with the village of 
 Polperro curiously nestled below, 
 The rocks and beach are of great 
 interest to the geologist. On the 
 beach, inside the old quay, are re- 
 mains of a submerged forest — part of 
 that which is found at intervals all 
 round the Cornish coast, from Ply- 
 mouth to Padstow. The trees here 
 occur in a stratum of blue clay, 
 beneath coarse gravel. In the rocks 
 what are known as the 44 Polperro 
 fossils ” were discovered by the late 
 Mr. Jonathan Couch in 1842. They 
 are especially abundant in a space 
 of half-a-mile on either side of Pol- 
 perro, and are found almost exclu- 
 sively on the under surface of the 
 sjate. They range between high- 
 
 water mark and a line of 50 ft. above 
 it. They are fragmentary and un- 
 defined, and mostly consist of “ a jet 
 or bluish enamelled surface, marked 
 with minute and exquisitely furrowed 
 striae, and an internal surface irre- 
 gularly cellular, sometimes half-an- 
 inch thick, in other instances as thin 
 as a wafer. Here and there are 
 spines tolerable distinct in outline.” 
 These fossils were at first held to be 
 fish — then sponges — and are now 
 shown with tolerable certainty to be 
 really fish, and to belong to a species 
 of Pteraspis. They are found, as has 
 been said, in rocks of the Devonian 
 system, generally held to be of the 
 same age as the Old Bed Sandstone. 
 “ One of the greatest difficulties in 
 the way of the acceptance of this 
 doctrine was the fact that whilst the 
 old red sandstones teemed with fossil 
 fish, there were none in the Devo- 
 nian rocks. The shoal of Pteras- 
 pides now caught in Devon and 
 Cornwall will go far to remove this 
 difficulty ” (see the 4 History of Dis- 
 covery of Fossil Fish in the Devo- 
 nian rocks,’ by Mr. Pengelly, 4 Trans, 
 of Devon. Assoc. 1868 ’). It is a 
 curious circumstance that the rocks 
 to which these remains are confined 
 underlie towards the land, whilst the 
 rest of the southern coast of Corn- 
 wall underlies towards the sea. This 
 inversion of the strata is first seen in 
 Pottledler Bay, opposite Looe Island, 
 and may be traced W. beyond Fowey 
 Haven, and for 2 or 3 m. inland. 
 The road from Polperro leads through 
 a deep valley to high ground, where 
 Lansallos Ch., a sea-mark, will be ob- 
 served on the 1. The ch. is Perp. 
 with earlier portions ; in it, accord- 
 ing to William of Worcester, lies St. 
 Ilyldren, “ episcopus,” of whom no- 
 thing is known. A short distance 
 further rt. is the ch. of Lanteglos , 
 mainly Dec. with a Perp. tower. The 
 font is E. Eng. There are Brasses 
 for Thomas Aiohun, 1440; and John 
 Mohun and wife, died 1508, of the 
 “ sweating sickness.” (It is recorded 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 38l 
 
 Route 24. — FoiOey. 
 
 that St. Mancus, a “hermit,” is 
 buried here.) The ch., which is 
 worth a visit, is falling into ruin 
 from neglect. The road then de- 
 scends to Fowey Harbour at Bodin- 
 nick Ferry. 
 
 7 Fowey ( Inn : the Ship: Pop. 1429), 
 delightfully situated near the mouth 
 of a broad estuary navigable for G m. 
 towards Lostwithiel. It extends 
 along the rt. bank nearly a mile, 
 under its sheltering hills, and oppo- 
 site to the village of Polruan , i. e. 
 “the Pool of St. Rumon” (the 
 Cornish bishop whose relics were 
 enshrined at Tavistock). Fowey 
 Haven is one of the most commodious 
 harbours in the county, and admits 
 vessels of large size at all times of 
 the tide. On each shore are the ruins 
 of square forts, built in the reign 
 of Edw. IV., from which a chain 
 was formerly stretched across the 
 water as a protection to the town. 
 The schistose cliffs of Polruan are 
 included among the red and varie- 
 gated slates of De la Beche, and are 
 mingled with calcareous beds con- 
 taining zoophytes, associated with 
 encrinites and shells. 
 
 Fowey, in the early days of Eng- 
 lish, history, was one of the principal 
 seaports of the kingdom, and during 
 the crusades many vessels were here 
 fitted out for the Holy Land. An 
 old windmill, situated on the heights 
 above the town, is mentioned in 
 1296 as a well-known sea-mark: and 
 as windmills are believed to have 
 been introduced into England from 
 Palestine, this venerable relic was 
 probably built by returned crusaders. 
 “ The glorie of Fowey/’ says Le- 
 land, “ rose by the warres in K. Ed. 
 I. and III. and Henry V.’s day, 
 partly by feats of warre, partly by 
 pyracie, and so waxing rich fell all 
 to marchaundize.” In the reign 
 of Edw. III. Fowey contributed 
 to the fleet intended for the block- 
 ade of Calais no less than 47 
 
 ships and 770 men — a larger arm- 
 ament than was provided by any 
 other town in the kingdom except 
 Yarmouth. In subsequent reigns 
 the Fowey gallants , as the seamen of 
 this place were termed (the name is 
 said to have been given them after a 
 successful fight with the seamen of 
 Rye and Winchelsea. The Fowey 
 ships sailing by those places would 
 “ vail no bonnet, being required ” — 
 and after the Cornishmen had 
 fought and won, they “bare their 
 arms mixed with the arms ” of the 
 Sussex seaports) carried out a sys- 
 tem of plunder upon the coast of 
 Normandy, and committed such 
 havoc, that the French several times 
 fitted out an expedition against the 
 town. In the reign of Henry YI. 
 they effected a landing under cover 
 of night, and having set fire to 
 the town killed a number of the 
 inhabitants. Those who had time to 
 escape hastily sheltered in Treffry 
 House (the original of Place House), 
 and so assailed the Frenchmen in 
 their turn as to compel them to re- 
 treat to their ships. In the reign of 
 Edw. IV., the seamen of Fowey having 
 been accused of piracy, their vessels 
 were #aken from them and given to 
 their rivals of Dartmouth — a reverse 
 of fortune from which the town never 
 recovered. The inhabitants, how- 
 ever, on various subsequent occasions 
 sustained their character for bravery, 
 and in the reign of Charles II. pre- 
 served a fleet of merchantmen from 
 capture by assailing a Dutch line-of- 
 battle ship with the guns of their 
 little towers. The principal defence 
 of Fowey in those times was St. Ca- 
 therine's Fort , erected by the towns- 
 people in the reign of Hen. VIII., 
 and crowning a magnificent pile of 
 rocks at the mouth of the harbour. 
 At the present day this ancient 
 stronghold is much dilapidated, and 
 better calculated to take a prominent 
 place in a traveller’s sketch than in 
 the repulse of an enemy. In the civil 
 war Fowey was the scene of an im- 
 
382 
 
 Route 24. — Plymouth to Falmouth. Sect. II. 
 
 portant event. The army of the Earl 
 of Essex here surrendered to the 
 King, their commander escaping by 
 sea to Plymouth (1644). In 1846 
 Her Majesty and P. Albert landed 
 at Fowey when cruising on the Corn- 
 ish coast. The visit is commemo- 
 rated by an obelisk of Luxulian 
 granite, 23 ft. in height, erected 
 1858. 
 
 The shores of the estuary for a 
 long distance above the town are 
 well wooded, and a trip by water to 
 Lostwithiel is deservedly a favourite 
 excursion. One branch flows to St. 
 Veep (3 m. from Fowey ; the ch., Dec. 
 and Perp., has been well restored), 
 near which is St. Cadoc, the seat of 
 the Wymonds. Further up the river, 
 on the W. bank, is Penquite, corrup- 
 tion from Pen coed , i. e. head of the 
 wood (J. W. Peard, Esq.); and on 
 the E. bank the Church of St. Winnow , 
 remarkable for the beauty of its 
 position. A window in this building, 
 after a design by the artist H. Stacey 
 Marks, represents the Angel and the 
 Marys at the Tomb. There is also 
 a very excellent window filled with 
 glass of 15th centy., sadly in want of 
 re-leading. 
 
 There are some excellent houses in 
 Fowey, specimens of 1 4th-cent. work. 
 The Church (which belonged to the 
 Priory of Tywardreth) is a fine edi- 
 fice, chiefly of the 15th centy., with 
 a handsome tower, an ornamented 
 oak ceiling, and a Perp. pulpit. The 
 N. aisle is said to date from 1336, 
 and the rest of the building from 
 1466. (There were two rebuildings, 
 one in 1336, when the ch. was dedi- 
 cated to St. Nicholas, and another in 
 1466. The older ch. had been ded. 
 to St. Bar (St. Finbar of Cork), who, 
 according to William of Worcester, 
 was buried at Fowey. In the S. aisle 
 is a monument to John Treffry, of 
 which Polwhele remarks, — “This 
 was put up during the lifetime of 
 Mr. Treffry by his direction. He 
 was a whimsical kind of man. He 
 had his grave dug, and lay down and 
 
 swore in it, to show the sexton a 
 novelty.” 
 
 Place House, the residence of the 
 late Joseph T. Treffry, Esq., and 
 now of the Rev. Dr. E. J. T., stands 
 immediately above Fowey, and is 
 well known in the county for its 
 antiquity, and for its restoration. 
 The old building, according to Mr. 
 Treffry (who contributed an account 
 of Place to the Report of the Royal 
 Institution of Cornwall for 1840), 
 was once called Cun Court , the 
 Chiefs Court , and, in digging the 
 foundation for the new buildings, 
 several bodies, of which some were 
 in armour, and other relics of an an- 
 cient burying-place, were discovered. 
 The name by which the mansion 
 is at present known is said by Pryce 
 to be the Cornish word plas , a palace. 
 The Treffrys were settled here at an 
 early period, and a Sir John Treffry 
 distinguished himself at Creqy. The 
 older house here was held out against 
 the French in 1457 ; and the Thomas 
 Treffry of that day afterwards built 
 a strong tower and embattled his 
 manor-house, making it, says Leland, 
 “ onto this day the glory of the town 
 building in Fowey.’' This tower has 
 been destroyed, and no part of the 
 building is now earlier than the reign 
 of Henry VII. Of that period there 
 are 2 remarkably fine bay windows, 
 covered with shallow panelling of 
 the richest description, and in the 
 finest preservation. The stone ap- 
 pears to have ^>een scraped during 
 the restoration ; but the work is 
 original, and contains several shields 
 of arms, temp. Hen. VII. Another 
 window in imitation of these is 
 temp. Eliz., and has shields of the 
 form in use at that period, quite 
 different from the others. The old 
 ha(l also exists, but is now turned 
 into the kitchen ; the original porch 
 is preserved in a singular manner 
 under the modern tower ; and being 
 lined with polished porphyry (raised 
 in a quarry belonging to the pro- 
 
383 
 
 Cornwall. j Uoute 24. — Place House — Menabilly . 
 
 prietor), is now called the “ Por- 
 phyry hall.” Some other parts are 
 temp. Eliz. (1575). Place is well 
 worth seeing. Besides the Porphyry 
 Hall, the house is ornamented with 
 granite and elvan, and contains a 
 number of curiosities, among which 
 is a fine original portrait of Hugh 
 Peters , the Puritan chaplain of Crom- 
 well, and a native of Fowey. 
 
 The late Mr. J. T. Tretfry, by 
 whom Place House was restored and 
 enlarged, deserves the notice of 
 every writer on Cornwall, as one 
 of the most extraordinary men of 
 his time, and as the projector and 
 author of magnificent works in this 
 neighbourhood. Born in the parish 
 of St. Germans, his paternal name 
 was Austen, but in 1838, when 
 sheriff of Cornwall, he assumed, by 
 virtue of a royal warrant, the name 
 of Treffry, having become the re- 
 presentative of that ancient family. 
 Gifted with uncommon enterprise 
 and talent, and with almost unlimited 
 means at his command, he employed 
 his energy and capital in advancing 
 the interests of those around him, in 
 effecting improvements, and in plan- 
 ning and executing the most colossal 
 and useful works. At one and the 
 same time he was a shipowner, a 
 merchant, a farmer of upwards of 
 1000 acre* a silver-lead smelter, and 
 the sole proprietor or principal share- 
 holder of some of the largest and 
 richest mines in the county. He 
 diverted a river from its course to 
 the use of machinery, and was the 
 first to bring a canal to a mine for 
 the purpose of conveying the ore to 
 his own ports. He» constructed from 
 his own purse, and after his own 
 designs, a breakwater, the harbours 
 of Par and Pentowan, and the magni- 
 ficent granite viaduct near St. Blazey ; 
 and at the period of his demise was 
 engaged in connecting the north and 
 south coasts of the county by a rail- 
 way. Mr. Treffry died at Place 
 House, at the age of 67, on the 29th 
 of January, 1850. 
 
 At Polruan , on the shore opposite 
 Fowey, are some remains (a chapel 
 and guardhouse) of Hall House , which 
 was garrisoned in the Civil War ; 
 and the ruins of St. Saviour’s chapel 
 or baptistery, and a stone cross — 
 a group similar to the shrine and 
 well of St. Cleer, near Liskeard. 
 A delightful promenade, called Hall 
 Walk , runs along the water-side. 
 The botanist in this neighbourhood 
 may notice Anchusa sempervirens , or 
 evergreen alkanet, in the lanes. 
 
 Menabilly (Hon. Mrs. Rashleigh), 
 the seat of the Rashleighs, cele- 
 brated for its grotto and collection 
 of minerals, is situated upon the pro- 
 montory of the Greber Head , about 
 2 m. W. of Fowey. You may either 
 walk to the grotto by the coast, or 
 proceed by road to the E. entrance of 
 the park, and there visit the Long- 
 stone , a monument of the Brito-R oman 
 era, originally erected over the re- 
 mains of Cirusius, the son of Cuni- 
 morus. It stands by the roadside, 
 near the gate (at Castle Dour), and 
 the inscription, “ Cirusius hie jacet 
 Cunomori filius,” is still in part 
 legible. At the top of the Long- 
 stone is a mortice as if to tenon a 
 small cross, and a X" s ^ a P ec ^ cross 
 is incised at the back. 
 
 “ The cabinet of minerals at 
 Menabilly is principally composed 
 of Cornish specimens, and its chief 
 excellence consists in the splendour 
 and variety of the oxide of tin, 
 fluors, malachite, and sulphuret of 
 copper. Among the most remark- 
 able specimens of tin are large octa- 
 hedrons, with and without trun- 
 cations ; the crystal described by 
 Klaproth as of the rarest occur- 
 rence, viz., the four-sided prism, with 
 a four-sided pyramid at each extre- 
 mity ; a group of four-sided pyramids 
 covered with a thin coating of chal- 
 cedony ; wood-tin, forming a vein in 
 a matrix of quartz ; tin crystals, hav- 
 ing a coating of black haematite ; and 
 sulphuret of tin, an exceedingly rare 
 
384 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 lioute 24 . — Plymouth to Falmouth . 
 
 mineral. The collection also con- 
 tains several blocks of tin, as prepared 
 by the Jews (?) for commerce during 
 the early working of the Cornish 
 mines, among which is a fraudulent 
 one, consisting of a mass of stone dis- 
 guised by a thin coating of metal. 
 Of other minerals the following spe- 
 cimens deserve particular notice, viz. 
 yellow copper-ore with opal ; the 
 triple sulphuret of copper, antimony, 
 and lead in various forms ; ruby cop- 
 per in cubes ; quartz containing glo- 
 bules of water ; the hydrargyllite or 
 wavelite in a plumose form, accom- 
 panied by apatite in a matrix of 
 quartz ; topazes of considerable lustre ; 
 green fluor in crystals of 24 sides ; a 
 beautiful cube of fluor, the surface 
 of which reflects a delicate green 
 hue, but when held to the light ex- 
 hibits an octahedral nucleus of a 
 purple colour; a superb octahedron 
 of gold ; and a mass of stalactitical 
 arragonite from the grotto of Anti- 
 paros/’ Before quitting Menabilly 
 the stranger should visit the grotto 
 erected near the sea-shore. It is 
 constructed in the form of an octagon, 
 with the finest marbles and serpen- 
 tine, interspersed with crystals, shells, 
 and pebbles. Two of the sides are 
 occupied by the door and a window, 
 and the remaining six form recep- 
 tacles for minerals. Four of these 
 are filled with specimens of the 
 Cornish ores, and two with fossils, 
 polished agates, and jaspers ; while the 
 intermediate spaces are ornamented 
 with shells, coralloids, and other cu- 
 rious substances. The roof is hung 
 with stalactites of singular beauty. 
 In this elegant grotto are preserved 
 two links of a chain which were 
 found by some fishermen in Fowey 
 Haven in the year 177G, and are 
 supposed to have formed a part of 
 the chain which was once stretched 
 across the harbour from tower to 
 tower in times of danger. Among 
 the specimens there is one of chalce- 
 dony deserving particular notice for 
 its magnitude and beauty. The centre 
 
 of the grotto is occupied by a table 
 inlaid with 32 polished specimens of 
 Cornish granite. In addition to the 
 cabinet of minerals Menabilly con- 
 tains a rich collection of drawings. 
 On his return to Fowey the traveller 
 may visit the village of Polkerris , a 
 wild fishing cove situated to the N. 
 of the park. 
 
 Other interesting excursions may 
 be made from Fowey, viz., to Car- 
 claze tin-mine near St. Austell, and to 
 the great copper-mines of South Fowey 
 Consols and Far Consols , the Valley of 
 Carmears , the Treffry Viaduct, and the 
 harbour of Par near St. Blazey (see 
 Rte. 23). 2 1 m. on the road to 
 
 Lostwithiel is a small encampment 
 called Castle Dour (the “ castle by the 
 water '*■ — dwr ). 
 
 Proceeding on our road from 
 Fowey, we skirt Tywardreth or St. 
 Blazey Bay. At Tywardreth was a 
 Benedictine Priory, founded as a 
 cell to the monastery of S. Sergius 
 and S. Bacchus at Angers, by a cer- 
 tain Bichard, “dapifer,” or steward, 
 who held the manor under the E. 
 of Cornwall, at the time of the 
 Domesday Survey. It was suppressed ; 
 as alien in 1414, but was afterwards 
 restored and naturalized. There are 
 no remains of the conventual build- 
 ings. We soon reach 
 
 St. Austell (Rte. 23). From here 1 , 
 you may visit 
 
 Mevagissey, ( Inn : the Ship.) This 
 fishing-town, 5 m. S. of St. Austell, 
 and noted for pilchards, derives its 
 name from two saints, St. Meva and 
 St. Issey (Pop. 1914). It is situated 
 in a hilly district upon the shore of a 
 beautiful bay, which, bounded on the! 
 N. by the Black Head (alt. 153 ft.). I 
 on the S. by Chapel Point , commands; 
 a view of the coast as far as the Ramei. 
 Head. The harbour is capacious 
 with a depth of 18 ft. within the pier 
 at high-water spring tides, and of IS 
 during the neaps. There has lonf 
 existed a jealousy between the fisher 
 men of this place and their neigh ; 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 24 . — Portmellin, 
 
 385 
 
 hours of Gorran Haven , a village 3 m. 
 S. Mevagissey Ch., which contains 
 a very curious font of Norm, charac- 
 ter, and probable date, has lost its 
 tower, and the men of Gorran affirm 
 that the inhabitants sold their bells 
 to pay the cost of pulling down the 
 tower; a joke which in Mevagissey 
 is retorted by asking, “ Who cut up 
 their own seine ?” This is in allusion 
 to a story that some years ago the 
 fishermen of Gorran and Mevagissey, 
 having enclosed a shoal of pilchards 
 in their respective seines, anchored 
 the nets for the night and returned 
 home, when the Gorran men went 
 out a little before daylight and de- 
 stroyed, as they thought, the net be- 
 longing to their rivals ; but the tide 
 had drifted and altered the relative 
 position of the two seines, so that 
 they had, indeed, cut their own to 
 pieces. There are several old monu- 
 ments in the ch. In 1849 Meva- 
 gissey was so severely visited by the 
 cholera, that the fishermen, with 
 their families, embarked in their 
 boats and sought safety in Fowey 
 Haven. One good resulted —a tho- 
 rough cleansing of the town ; the 
 inhabitants encamping on the neigh- 
 bouring fields while the necessary 
 operations were being effected. A 
 delightful road runs near the cliffs 
 from Mevagissey to 
 
 Portmellin (i. e. yellow port), a fish- 
 ing-cove distant about 1 m. S. Here 
 are remains of a double entrench- 
 ment, and a mound called Castle Hill; 
 and in the neighbourhood a farm- 
 house, once part of a splendid man- 
 sion, which belonged to an old Cornish 
 family named Bodrigan. (Borlase 
 says that the remains of this man- 
 sion or castle were very extensive, 
 and unequalled in Cornwall for their 
 magnificence. They were pulled 
 down .about 1786. A great barn re- 
 mains). A rock on the coast near 
 Chapel Point (the S. horn of Me- 
 vagissey Bay) still bears the name. 
 It is called Bod rig an’ s Leap , from 
 
 [Dev. Sf Com.] 
 
 a tradition that Sir Henry Bod- 
 rigan, having been convicted of trea- 
 son in the reign of Henry VII., here 
 sprang down the cliff when flying 
 from his neighbours Edgcumbe and 
 Trevanion, who were endeavouring 
 to take him. He is said to have 
 been so little injured by the fall as to 
 have gained a vessel sailing near the 
 shore, and to have escaped into 
 France. The mansion of the Treva- 
 nions once stood in the parish of St. 
 Michael Carhayes, N.W. of the 
 Dodman Head. A Gothic build- 
 ing, by the architect of Bucking- 
 ham Palace, now occupies the site, 
 and the only thing to interest the 
 antiquary in the present Castle of 
 Carhayes (J. M. Williams Esq.) is a 
 stone sculptured with the royal arms 
 (temp. Henry VIII.), which is fixed 
 to the wall of the entrance hall. Here 
 however is preserved (removed from 
 Scorrier near Redruth) a valuable 
 cabinet of minerals, principally Cor- 
 nish, including several large pieces 
 of Cornish gold. Among the more 
 remarkable specimens are the red 
 oxide and arseniate of copper, uranite, 
 blende, native and ruby silver,' the 
 muriate of that metal, and the arse- 
 niate of lead. The parish ch. is 
 hung with the rusty helmets, swords, 
 and gauntlets of the old family of 
 Trevanion, including a sword said to 
 have been wielded by Sir Hugh Tre- 
 vanion in the battle of Bosworth 
 Field. (John Trevanion was one of 
 the “ four wheels of Charles’s wain” — 
 
 “ The four wheels of Charles’s wain, 
 
 Grenville, Godolphin, Trevanion, Slanning, 
 slain.” 
 
 He and Sir Nicholas Slanning fell at 
 the siege of Bristol. “ They were 
 the life and soul of the Cornish re- 
 giment,” says Clarendon ; “ both 
 
 young, neither of them above 28 ; 
 of entire friendship to each other, 
 and to Sir Beville Grenville, whose 
 body was not yet buried.”) 
 
 Gorran is 2 m. S. from Mevagissey. 
 The tower of the church dates from 
 1606, and the body of the building 
 s 
 
386 
 
 Route 24 . — Plymouth to Falmouth. 
 
 contains a monument to Richard 
 Edgcumbe of Bodrigan, 1656. 
 
 The Dodman , i. e. Dod maen, “ stone 
 of position,” from its being one of the 
 most conspicuous headlands on the 
 S. coast, is associated with a grander 
 headland in the Cornish proverb, 
 “ When Rame Head and Dodman 
 meet.” This, says Fuller, has come 
 to pass, for they have met in the 
 possession of the same owner, Sir 
 Pierce Edgcumbe, who enjoyed the 
 one in his own right, and the other 
 in right of his wife. It is a wild 
 and remote point, 379 ft. above the 
 sea. 
 
 The cliffs of Veryan Bay , W. of the 
 Dodman, afford an excellent section 
 of various grauwacke rocks, asso- 
 ciated with trap and conglomerates, 
 as the coast-line cuts the strike of the 
 beds, which is S.W. 
 
 On the cliffs W. of Penare Head 
 (338 ft. above the sea) are Giant 
 Trcgeagle's Quoits, a number of huge 
 blocks of quartz rock. (Penare Head 
 has some serpentine rocks cropping 
 from it.) It would be passing strange 
 in Cornwall if the presence of such 
 striking objects were not accounted 
 for by a legend. Accordingly we 
 hear that giant Tregeagle— the me- 
 lancholy monster who frequents Doz- 
 mare Pool (see Rte. 21) — hurled them 
 to this place from the N. coast. On 
 the shore there is a cavern called Tre - 
 geagle’s Hole , and in the immediate 
 vicinity of the headland an enor- 
 mous mound known as 
 
 Veryan or Cam Beacon (372 ft. in cir- 
 cumf., and 370 ft. above the sea), which 
 by popular accounts is the burial- 
 placeof Gerennius (Geraint), a king of 
 Cornwall. This traditional monarch 
 is said to have been here interred 
 about the year 589, with his crown, 
 and weapons, and golden boat with silver 
 oars : accordingly, in 1855, when the 
 harrow was opened, the proceedings 
 were watched with considerable in- 
 terest. But the visions of the golden 
 boat were not to be realised. The 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 presumed ashes of the old king were 
 found, enclosed within a rude stone 
 chest, or kistvaen — but nothing more 
 than ashes. When the search had 
 been completed these relics were re- 
 placed, and the excavation in the 
 barrow filled in. 
 
 The name of Gerennius is still pre- 
 served in that of the village of Gerrans 
 (8 m. from Tregony), where an earth- 
 work called Dingerein (Geraint’s 
 castle), N. of the ch., and communi- 
 cating with the shore by an under- 
 ground passage termed the Mermaid's 
 Hole, is pointed out as the remains of 
 his palace. (This is the Gerennius 
 or Geraint — a name which seems to 
 belong in a special manner to the 
 chieftains of West Wales — who is 
 said to have received at Dingerein 
 St. Teilo of Llandaff on his way to 
 Brittany. St. Teilo returned in time 
 to deliver the viaticum to Geraint, 
 who lay dying. It may well be 
 doubted whether the remains found 
 in the Veryan mound are not of 
 much earlier date. The legend of 
 St. Teilo asserts that the saint, mys- 
 teriously warned in Brittany of 
 Geraint’s sickness, set sail at once 
 and brought with him a stone “ sar- 
 cophagus” for the king’s body. As 
 it could not be taken into the ship, 
 it was let down into the sea, and 
 floated before St. Teilo, “ in portum 
 vocatum Dingerein 99 (‘ Liber Landa- 
 vensis,’ p. 108). The peninsula 
 W. of Gerrans is called Roseland , I 
 ( Rhosland = moorland) . 
 
 You may find upon the shore on 
 the eastern side of Gerrans Bay a 
 remarkably fine example of a raised 
 beach , composed of pebbles cemented 
 together by oxide of iron. 
 
 (For St. Antony’s Head, Falmouth . 
 Harbour, the various creeks of the 
 Fal river, and for Falmouth itself, 
 see Rte. 26). 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 25 . — Plymouth to Rude Hamm 38 1 
 
 EOUTE 25. 
 
 PLYMOUTH TO BUDE HAVEN, BY SALT- 
 ASH, CALLINGTON, LAUNCESTON, 
 AND STRATTON (THE COAST EROM 
 BUDE TO MORWENSTOw). 
 
 (An easier way of reaching Bude 
 Haven from Plymouth is to go to 
 Launceston by railway (Rte. 14). 
 The present route, however, from 
 Plymouth to Launceston, has many 
 points of interest.) 
 
 The tourist may proceed to Saltash 
 either by boat up the Tamar ; by the 
 turnpike-road on the 1. bank of the 
 river, crossing by the steam-ferry to 
 Saltash ; or by the railway, crossing 
 the Albert Bridge. The distance, in 
 either case, is about 5 m. 
 
 For Saltash , see Rte. 23. For the 
 excursion up the Tamar, see Devon- 
 shire, Rte. 7. Many of the points 
 there indicated are described in the 
 preseut route. 
 
 Proceeding from Saltash toward 
 Callington, 2 m. rt. is the Church of 
 Dot us Fleming, Perp., but containing 
 in the N. aisle the monument of a 
 crusader, Stephen le Fleming, who 
 accompanied Rd. I. to the Holy Land, 
 and is said to have built the first 
 church here. The nave piers may be 
 E. E., as the font certainly is. Modi - 
 tonham, in this parish, was in 1689 
 the residence of the Earl of Bath, 
 governor of Pendennis and Plymouth 
 Castles. He treated here with Will. 
 
 III/s commissioner for the surrender 
 of the two fortresses. 
 
 [The old Church of Landulph , on rt. 
 bank of the river (2 m. from Saltash 
 by water), and opposite the mouth of 
 the Tavy, is remarkable for contain- 
 ing the tomb of Theodore Palceologus, 
 a descendant of the emperors of 
 “ the East.” The following is the 
 inscription on the monument :■ — 
 “ Here lyeth the body of Theodoro 
 Paleologus of Pesaro in Italye, de- 
 scended from y e Imperyail lyne of 
 y e last Christian Emperors of Greece, 
 being the sonne of Camilio, y e soile 
 of Prosper, the sonne of Theodoro, 
 the sonne of Iohn, y e sonne of Tho- 
 mas, second brother to Constantine 
 Paleologus, the 8 th of that name, and 
 last of y* lyne y l raygned in Con- 
 stantinople, untill subdewed by the 
 Turkes, who married with Mary y e 
 daughter of William Balls of Hadlye 
 in Souffolke Gent, & had issue 5 
 children, Theodoro, Iohn, Ferdi- 
 nando, Maria, & Dorothy, and de- 
 parted this life at Clyfton y e 21 th of 
 January, 1636.” It was of Thomas, 
 2nd brother of Constantine P., that 
 Mahomet II. said, “ he had found 
 many slaves in Peloponnesus, but 
 never a man but he.” He escaped 
 into Italy where Pius II. allowed 
 him a pension until his death. It 
 is suggested that Theodore Paleo- 
 logus sought a refuge in England 
 on account of the hostility towards 
 the Greeks shown by Pope Paul 
 V. and his successor, Gregory XV. 
 Some years ago the vault at Lan- 
 dulph was opened and the lid of the 
 oaken coffin raised, when the body 
 was found sufficiently perfect to 
 show that it exceeded the common 
 stature, and that the face had been 
 furnished with a long white beard. 
 The ch. itself is of no great interest. 
 Some trifling remains of Clyfton , 
 which was a manorhouse of the 
 Courtenays, may be seen on the point 
 opposite HalLs Hole.] 
 
 Proceeding on our route, we pass 
 s 2 
 
388 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 25. — Plymouth to Bude Haven. 
 
 over high land commanding in places 
 beautiful views down the winding 
 Tamar and toward the misty regions 
 of Dartmoor. 
 
 About 5 m. from Saltash and 1 m. 
 rt. of the road is Pentillie Castle (A. 
 Coryton, Esq.), a modern building 
 erected from designs by the late Mr. 
 Wilkins, and well situated upon the 
 steep shore of the Tamar. A finely- 
 wooded hill, called Mount Ararat, 
 rising N. of the castle, is crowned by 
 a tower of which a strange tale is 
 told in connection with Sir James 
 Tillie, one of the former possessors 
 of this estate, who died in 1712. It 
 is said that this person expressed a 
 desire that after death he should be 
 placed in the tower, seated on a chair 
 in his customary dress, and before a 
 table furnished with appliances for 
 drinking and smoking. It is fur- 
 ther said that he was buried accord- 
 ing to his wish as regards the 
 place, but in a coffin. In the hall 
 of the castle are a painted window 
 (a fine specimen of old German 
 glass, turned inside out by the care- 
 lessness of those who placed it) and 
 a statue of Sir James Tillie, the size 
 of life. 
 
 6 m. St. Mellion. — The Church (de- 
 dicated to St. Melanius, Bp. of Rennes, 
 d. 490 — originally Dec., but much 
 altered, restored 1862,) contains 
 some monuments with effigies of the 
 Corytons, baronets of Newton Park 
 in the 17th and 18th cents. The 
 latest of them represents Sir W. (d. 
 1711) as a portly gentleman in a 
 large lapelled coat tightly buttoned, 
 and with a large full-bottomed wig. 
 Against the N. wall is a good Brass 
 for Peter Coryton, d. 1551, wife and 
 children. The mansion of Newton is 
 still standing, and about 3 m, to the 
 1. In a farmhouse rt. of the road is a 
 fragment of Crocadon House , once the 
 residence of a family named Trevisa, 
 one of whom, John Trevisa, chaplain 
 to Lord Berkeley, translated the 
 Bible, the 'Acts of King Arthur/ and 
 
 Higden’s ‘ Polychronicon/ He died 
 1470, set. 86. This family failed in 
 1690, when Crocadon was purchased 
 by the Corytons. 
 
 1 m. Viverdon Down. — The traveller 
 will find in its vicinity a road to 
 the rt., which — (passing the Church 
 of St. Dominick , Ear. Dec. with Perp. 
 aisles, restored 1871. Below the 
 embattled parapet of the tower are 
 rude figures of the 12 Apostles. In 
 the S. chancel aisle is a good 17th- 
 centy. monument with effigies of Sir 
 Anthony Rouse and his son. Hal- 
 ton, in this parish, was their resi- 
 dence, and here lived John Rouse, 
 Speaker of Cromwell’s Little Parlia- 
 ment, “ the old illiterate Jew of 
 Eton/’ as the Cavaliers called him. 
 He was the chief author of the 
 metrical version of the Psalms now 
 used in the Scottish Kirk) — in about 
 3 m. will bring him to 
 
 Cothele , i. e. “ Coet-heyle/' the 
 woods on the river (Earl of Mount 
 Edgcumbe, now the residence of the 
 Countess Dowager), a most interest- 
 ing old mansion, begun by Sir Rd. 
 Edgcumbe, temp. Hen. VII., carried 
 on slowly through the reign of Hen. 
 VIII., and not completed before that 
 of Eiiz. The ancient fittings and 
 furniture, as well as the granite walls, 
 are in excellent preservation. It is 
 an embattled structure, built round a 
 quadrangle, and situated above an 
 ancient wood of oak, elm, and ches- 
 nut, sloping to the Tamar. (A Span- 
 ish chesnut in the wood is probably 
 the largest in England, being 32 ft. 
 in circumference. It is now decay- 
 ing.) On the pavement of the quad- 
 rangle near the entrance are pointed 
 out certain marks, said to he blood- 
 stains. A porter was killed on this 
 spot by his master. The hall is hung 
 with the trophies of war and the 
 chace, — coats of mail, arms of various 
 kinds, the horns of the stag, and of 
 the Irish elk, — while a figure in 
 complete armour adorns the wall a< 
 the upper end. Two “olifants” oi 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 25 . — Cothele. 
 
 389 
 
 porter’s horns should be noticed. One 
 is especially curious, -with the mouth- 
 hole at the side instead of at the end. 
 Some like it have been found in Ire- 
 land, whence this and the elks’ horns 
 may have been brought by Sir R. 
 Edgcumbe, who was sent by Queen 
 Eliz. as ambassador to some Irish 
 chieftains. The timber roof is of the 
 time of Hen. VIII. A chair has the 
 date 1627, and much of the furniture 
 in the house corresponds with this. 
 The other apartments are extremely 
 interesting, especially to the anti- 
 quary, since they contain a store of 
 antique furniture, and many curious 
 relics of bygone days. All the rooms 
 are hung with tapestry, which is 
 lifted to give an entrance ; and the 
 hearths, intended for wood alone, 
 are furnished with grotesque figures 
 or andirons for the support of the 
 logs. The delicate carving of the 
 cabinets should be closely examined. 
 The dining-room, at the end of the 
 hall, joins the chapel , which has a 
 triptych over the altar, a screen and 
 stall-desks, temp. Hen. VIII. The 
 glass of the E. window displays a 
 Crucifixion, with 4 angels holding 
 chalices to the hands, side, and feet. 
 The decorations of the altar are worth 
 inspecting. There is a small window 
 near the altar, opening to a closet 
 from a bedroom. From the other end 
 of the dining-room a staircase leads 
 to bedrooms in which is furniture 
 temp. Eliz. and Jas„ I., including some 
 curious mirrors (one of polished steel), 
 with frames worked in needlework. 
 The drawing-room, on the first-floor 
 of the W. tower, has ebony chairs, 
 temp. Eliz. Above this room are 
 small bedrooms : one called Queen 
 Anne’s; another said to be that in 
 which Charles II. slept, with the 
 furniture as left by him— (the bed 
 is of James I.’s reign.) Cothele 
 belonged to a family of that name 
 before the reign of Edw. III., when 
 it passed by marriage to an an- 
 cestor of the Earl of Mount Edg- 
 cumbe. The house has been ho- 
 
 noured more than once by the pre- 
 sence of royalty. Charles II. resided 
 in it for several days. In 1789 it was 
 visited by Geo. III. and his queen; 
 and in 1846 by her Majesty Queen 
 Victoria and Prince Albert. The 
 scenery on the Tamar below Cothele 
 is extremely beautiful. The wood 
 overhangs the river in clustering 
 masses, and at the bend of the stream 
 becomes wild and tangled in a hol- 
 low called Danescombe. At another 
 spot a bold rock projecting from 
 the foliage throws a gloomier sha- 
 dow upon the water. This is 
 crowned by a small chapel, and con- 
 nected with the following legend : — ■ 
 In the reign of Richard III., Sir 
 Richard Edgcumbe being suspected 
 of favouring the claims of Richmond, 
 a party of armed men was despatched 
 to apprehend him. He escaped, 
 however, from his house into the 
 wood, closely followed by his pur- 
 suers, and, having gained the summit 
 of this rock, his cap fell into the 
 water as he was clambering down 
 the rocks to conceal himself. The 
 soldiers soon arrived on the spot, and, 
 upon seeing the cap floating on the 
 river, imagined that Edgcumbe had 
 drowned himself, and so gave over 
 the pursuit. Sir Richard afterwards 
 crossed into France, and, returning 
 upon the death of the king, erected 
 this chapel in grateful remembrance 
 of his escape. The Chapel contains 
 windows of stained glass, two 15th- 
 centy. paintings (leaves of a triptych 
 — the centre is wanting), a monu- 
 ment of Sir Richard Edgcumbe, a gilt 
 crucifix, and the image of a bishop in 
 his pontificals. Cothele is in the vi- 
 cinity of the Morwell Rocks , and other 
 interesting scenes on the Tamar. (See 
 Devon , Rtes. 7 and 14.) The botanist 
 may procure Melittis grandiflora , a 
 plant rather local than rare, in the 
 neighbourhood. Melittis Melissophyl- 
 lum, an uncommon species, is also 
 found in the county. 
 
 Returning to Viverdon Down, after 
 proceeding 2 J m. the traveller arrives 
 
390 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 25 . — Plymouth to Bude Haven . 
 
 at a small patch of uncultivated land. 
 If on foot or on horseback he can 
 here diverge from the road and visit 
 one of the “ lions” of Callington in 
 his way to that town. For this pur- 
 pose, at the further boundary-hedge 
 turn to the right over the common 
 towards a narrow lane which, cross- 
 ing another at right angles, leads 
 direct to a farmhouse. Just below 
 the farmyard is 
 
 Dupath Well, a pellucid spring, which, 
 once the resort of pilgrims, overflows 
 a trough, and, entering the open 
 archway of a small chapel, spreads 
 itself over the floor, and passes out 
 below a window at the opposite 
 end. The little Chapel is a complete 
 specimen of the baptisteries anciently 
 so common in Cornwall (see Introd.). 
 It has a most venerable appearance, 
 and is built entirely of granite which 
 is grey and worn by age. The roof 
 is constructed of enormous slabs, 
 hung with fern and supported in the 
 interior by an arch, dividing the 
 nave and chancel. The building is 
 crowned by an ornamented bellcot. 
 This well, according to a legend, was 
 once the scene of a fierce combat be- 
 tween two noble Saxons, rivals in a 
 lady’s affections — Colan, a youth and 
 the favoured suitor, and Gotlieb (?), 
 a man of more advanced years. The 
 duel terminated in the death of Got- 
 lieb ; but Colan had received a wound 
 which, aggravated by his impatience 
 to wed the lady of his affections, 
 eventually proved mortal. The story 
 has been told as a metrical legend by 
 the Rev. R. S. Hawker, rector of 
 Morwenstow. 
 
 1 m. Callington {Inn: Golding’s Ho- 
 tel), a dreary town, disfranchised 
 by the Reform Bill (Horace Wal- 
 pole sat for Callington during his 
 father’s last administration), and now 
 containing about 2200 inhab., chiefly 
 occupied in mining. King Arthur, 
 says tradition, had a palace here, 
 when the place was called “ Killy- 
 
 wick.” (This is the “Geliy wig” 
 or “Kelliwic” of the Triads, — but 
 whether it is to be sought at Calling- 
 ton is altogether uncertain.) The 
 Church is now the sole lion. It is a 
 daughter ch. to South Hill, and was 
 rebuilt by Sir Nich. Assheton, who 
 died in 1465. It has been thoroughly 
 restored (1859), J. P. St. Aubyn, 
 archit., and is a good Perp. ch. with 
 a clerestory — a rarity in Cornwall. 
 The walls are of granite, with a good 
 W. tower, on the buttresses of which 
 are the evangelistic symbols. In the 
 chancel is the fine Brass of the founder 
 or rebuilder, Sir Nicholas Assheton 
 and wife. Sir Nicholas, who was one 
 of the Justices of the Common Pleas, 
 wears a coif and long furred robe. 
 On the N. side of the chancel is the 
 tomb with alabaster effigy of Sir 
 Robt. Willoughby, first Lord Wil- 
 loughby de Broke — died 1503. He 
 is in armour, bareheaded (as usual at 
 this period), and wears the collar, 
 badge, and mantle of the Garter. 
 On the soles of the feet are the 
 figures of 2 monks telling their beads, 
 an unique example. “ This beautiful 
 and costly monument is the most 
 striking, perhaps, of its kind in the 
 whole county of Cornwall” {Rev, 
 jE. B. Hutchison). This first Lord 
 W., who died steward of the Duchy 
 of Cornwall, was a sharer in the 
 victory of Bosworth. The font is 
 of Norm, character. In the church- 
 yard is a canopied cross, worth notice. 
 Callington is in a great measure sup- 
 ported by the mines in the neigh- 
 bourhood, and is situated imme- 
 diately under 
 
 Kit Hill , alt. 1067 ft., an out- 
 lying eminence of granite, and sum- 
 mit of Hingston Down, which stretches 
 eastward to the Tamar, and before 
 the reign of Hen. III. was the place 
 of meeting of the Cornish tinners, 
 who assembled here every 7th or 8th 
 year to confer with their brethren of 
 Devon. In 835 it was the scene of 
 the defeat of the Danes and Britons 
 
391 
 
 Cornwall. Route 25 .— Kingston Down — Gunnislahe . 
 
 by Egbert ; of which great and 
 decisive battle the tumuli which 
 occur on the down may be traces. 
 Kit Hill, from its isolated position, 
 intermediate between the moors of 
 Bodmin and Dartmoor (about 16 m. 
 apart), and in full view of the wind- 
 ings of the Tamar and distant Chan- 
 nel, commands perhaps the most im- 
 pressive and beautiful view in Corn- 
 wall. Upon the summit is the ruin 
 of a windmill, which, erected upon 
 that exposed spot to work a mine, 
 was destroyed by the violence of the 
 storms ; while the mine was aban- 
 doned in consequence of the great 
 expense attending its excavation in a 
 hard granite. Kit Hill, like all bar- 
 ren ground in a populous neighbour- 
 hood, has a dreary aspect. Its sides 
 are covered with rubbish, and the 
 summit is pierced by a number of 
 shafts, which render caution most 
 necessary in those who. ascend to it. 
 “ The country people,” says Carew, 
 “ have a bye-word that 
 
 ‘ Hengsten Down well ywrought 
 
 Is worth London town dear ybought,’ 
 
 which grew from a store of tynne, 
 in former times there digged up.” 
 
 Bupath Well (see ante ) is about 
 1 m. from this town, and the follow- 
 ing are the directions for finding 
 it. Pursue the Tavistock road about 
 i m. to the open down. Here, at a 
 signpost on the rt., strike over the 
 grass to a lane trending in that direc- 
 tion. Pursue this lane ^ m. ; then 
 turn down the lane on the 1. which 
 leads to a farmhouse. Adjoining and 
 below this house is the well. The 
 traveller is there also in the vicinity 
 of Cothele. 
 
 \Liskeard (Rte. 23) is 8 m. from 
 Callington, and the road to it one 
 of the most hilly in Cornwall. Mid- 
 way is St. Ive, of which the Church 
 deserves special notice, as one of 
 the few good examples of Dec. in 
 Cornwall. The E. window, with 
 canopied niches at the sides, is fine. 
 
 The S. aisle and tower (good) are 
 Perp. There is a large 16th-centv. 
 monument to John Wrey and wife. 
 The ch. was founded by the Knights 
 Templars, who had a preceptory at 
 Trebigh in the parish. There are 
 some remains of Dec, stained glass 
 in St. Ive’s Ch, (St. Ive can hardly 
 be “ St. John of Jerusalem,” as has 
 been asserted, but the Breton saint— 
 
 “ Sanctus Ivo erat Brito 
 Advocatus, sed non latro 
 Res miranda populo.”) 
 
 LTthe Dec. Church of Quethiock , 1 m. 
 from St. Ive, is a fine Brass to Roger 
 Kingdon (d. 1471) and wife, and one 
 of very inferior workmanship for 
 Richard Chiverton and wife, 1617, 
 1631. The tower (Dec.) is very sin- 
 gular. The second stage rises from 
 and crowns a western gable, like a 
 gigantic bell-turret. The staircase 
 only reaches to the base of the second 
 stage, where it terminates in a small 
 gable on the S. front of the tower. 
 The N. aisle is Perp. 
 
 Gunnislahe , a village in the heart of 
 this mining district, is m. on the 
 road to Tavistock. On the heights 
 above it is the tin-mine of Brake- 
 walls (rt. side of the road above the 
 village), particularly worth visiting, 
 as one of the lodes, traversed by a 
 cross-course, is open to the day. Here 
 also has been introduced an import- 
 ant process for separating wolfram 
 (tungstate of iron) from the tin-ore, 
 and which was invented by Mr. Ox- 
 land, of this mine. The Morwell 
 Bocks (Devon, Rtes. 7 and 14) are seen 
 to great advantage from Gunnislake ; 
 and a slender water-wheel, suspended 
 above the river, will strike the tra- 
 veller’s attention, from the singularity 
 of its position among woods and 
 beetling crags. It belongs to a mine 
 called Chimney Bock. The Tamar is 
 spanned by the picturesque structure 
 of New Bridge , above which its shores, 
 receding, form a wooded basin, which 
 is crowned by the engine of Huel 
 Sophia .] 
 
892 liotxke 25. — Pig/nuti 
 
 Tiie road from Callington to Laun- 
 ceston crosses the foot of Kit Hill, 
 having the ffol/nbush and Redmoor 
 copper mine^ respectively rt. and 1. 
 
 [After passing the Redmore mine, 
 a road branches 1. to South Hill 
 (2 m.), where is a good Dec. church 
 — the mother ch. of Callington — • 
 ded. to S. Sampson of Dol. The rude 
 Norm, font is worth notice. The 
 Church of Linkenhorne , 1 m. beyond, 
 is Perp., with a very line tower, said 
 to be the highest in Cornwall except 
 Probus. The caps, of the nave piers 
 are embattled, and finely sculptured 
 with varying details. This ch. was 
 rebuilt by Sir Henry Trecarrell, 
 temp. Henry VIII. (the rebuilder of 
 Launceston ch.). He was lord of 
 the manor. The chancel is modern 
 and very bad. There is an Eliza- 
 bethan house (now a farm) at Browcla, 
 = i.e. battle-field, in this parish, and 
 a circular entrenchment on the estate, 
 which, says the local legend, must 
 never be broken by the plough, or 
 the owner will die.] 
 
 2J m. 1. Whiteford House (Sir W. 
 M. Call, Bart.). 
 
 i m. Stoke Climsland. (The church, 
 late Dec., has been well restored.) A 
 road on rt. leads over the Tamar by 
 Horse Bridge 2£ m. 
 
 1^ m. The traveller here passes the 
 Innxj , which flows down a pleasant 
 vale towards the Tamar. 
 
 i m. The Sportsman's Arms , and half- 
 way-house between Callington and 
 Launceston. Rt., distant about l m., 
 the Carthamartha (Caer Tamar ?) 
 Rocks, a fine wild scene of limestone 
 cliff, “ bursting from the slopes,” and 
 overlooking an amphitheatre of wood. 
 Below and far beyond stretches the 
 valley of the Tamar. A lane oppo- 
 site the inn, and then a field-path, 
 lead direct to this charming point of 
 view. 
 
 I lj m. 1. Bezant (corrupted from 
 Lau-zant = sand-enclosure), with a 
 granite ch., containing monuments 
 of the Trefusis family. The ch. is 
 Perp. ; there are some good cradle 
 
 ii/'i to Bade Haven . Sect. II. 
 
 roofs. 1^ W. of it is the ivied ruin 
 of Trecarrel (Rte. 21); and 1 m. 
 farther W., on the opposite side of 
 the Inny, a small circular earthwork 
 called Round Bury. 
 
 f m. rt. Hexworthy House , E. Pri- 
 deaux, Esq., and a road to Grcystone 
 Bridge , one of the most ancient struc- | 
 tures on the Tamar. Beyond it is j 
 the old Tudor manor-house of Brad- 
 stone (Devon, Rte. 14), and S. of it j 
 Endsleigh (Duke of Bedford), so re- 
 nowned for its romantic beauty. 
 
 The geologist should be informed 
 that near Landue Mill, to the 1. of the |* 
 road, the carbonaceous deposits rest 
 in an unconformable position on the 1 
 grauwacke. 
 
 1 m. rt. Lawhitton , where the small 
 ch. has been restored. 
 
 2 m. Launceston (Rte. 21). 
 
 1 m. rt. Werrington ( — Deakin, 
 Esq.) ; 1. St. Stephen's Down. 
 
 14 m. Stratton (Inn: the Tree), 
 (Pop 1 755), a poor town lying among 
 hills, about a mile from the coast, but 
 of considerable antiquity. The name, | 
 which occurs in Somerset, in Glou- 
 cestershire, and, indeed, in many parts 
 of England, indicates a position on a 
 “ street” or line of an old Roman way. 
 
 It is thought that a Roman road, 
 which has not been properly traced, 
 entered the county here, and passed ‘ 
 onw r ard along the N. coast. The ch. 
 (restored) is Perp., and contains the 
 black marble tomb of Sir John Arun- 
 dell, of Trerice (1561), his 2 wives 
 and 13 children, whose effigies are 
 represented on Brasses. The hilly 
 country of this neighbourhood — 
 though rich and well cultivated — 
 has a somewhat wild and bare ap- 
 pearance ; but not long since the . 
 landlord at Stratton used to assert ; 
 that plenty of timber was to be found 
 in it. Thus his inn is the Tree, he 
 himself was an Ash, his farm-bailiff 
 a Wood, his neighbours Ivy and Oak 9 
 and the farm of the latter at Bush . 
 This happy coincidence exists no 
 longer. 
 
393 
 
 Cornwall. Route 25 . — Stratton — Bude Canal . 
 
 There are two objects of particular 
 interest in the vicinity of Stratton — 
 Stamford Hill , and the inclined plane on 
 the Bude Canal. The former lies im- 
 mediately N. of the town, and was 
 the scene of the battle of Stamford 
 Hill, in which the forces of the Par- 
 liament were defeated by the Royal- 
 ists. By Clarendon’s account it was 
 towards the middle of May, 1643, 
 when the Earl of Stamford marched 
 into Cornwall with an army of 1400 
 horse and 5400 foot, and a park of 
 artillery consisting of 13 pieces of 
 brass ordnance and a mortar, and 
 encamped near Stratton, on a lofty 
 hill, steep on all sides, while he de- 
 spatched a body of 1200 horse, under 
 Sir George Chudleigh, to surprise 
 Bodmin. The king’s forces, not 
 amounting to half this number, were 
 at the same time quartered near 
 Launceston, under Sir Ralph Hopton 
 and Sir Beville Grenville, who, 
 though far inferior in the strength 
 and equipment of their troops, re- 
 solved to give the enemy battle, and 
 with that purpose marched, on Mon- 
 day the 15th, with 2400 foot and 500 
 horse, upon Stratton, although “ so 
 destitute of provisions, that the best 
 officers had but a biscuit a man.” 
 The next morning by daybreak, this 
 force, being arranged in 4 divisions, 
 advanced to the attack on different 
 sides of the hill, the horse standing 
 aloof as a reserve. For several hours 
 the battle was waged with varying 
 success, when the Royalists, having re- 
 duced their supply of powder to 4 
 barrels, determined upon advancing 
 to the summit of the hill before they 
 fired another shot. With this inten- 
 tion they steadily pushed forward, 
 and being charged by Major-General 
 Chudleigh near the top of the hill, 
 that officer was taken prisoner, and 
 the enemy recoiled. The Royalists 
 now pushed their advantage, and 
 rushing with fresh spirit on the 
 Roundheads, succeeded in throwing 
 them into disorder, when, the Earl 
 of Stamford giving the signal of de- 
 
 feat by galloping from the field, the 
 panic became general, and the Par- 
 liamentary troops fled on all sides. 
 They left about 200 men dead on the 
 field, and their camp and ammunition 
 in the hands of the victors. Stam- 
 ford Hill (although thrown into pas- 
 ture-fields) bears to this day some 
 marks of the battle. The summit 
 is of small girth, and the ground 
 slopes steeply from it to the S. and 
 E. ; but on the W., and especially 
 on the N. side, the position might 
 be more easily assailed. On these 
 sides are the remains of a high semi- 
 circular bank, which seems to have 
 been thrown up as a rampart by the 
 Parliamentary forces. A monument 
 erected on the hill, in commemoration 
 of the battle, was destroyed many 
 years ago, but the inscription in white 
 characters on a black wooden tablet, 
 and to the following effect, was pre- 
 served, and is now fixed on the wall 
 of the Tree Inn. “In this place ye 
 army of the rebells under ye command 
 of ye Earl of Stamford received a 
 signal overthrow by the valor of Sir 
 Bevill Grenville and ye Cornish army, 
 on Tuesday, the 16th of May, 1643.” 
 The site of the battle is now how- 
 ever marked by an old cannon on a 
 broken carriage, set up at the en- 
 trance opening in the rampart ; be- 
 low it is a copy of the inscription 
 just given. Cannon-balls and bul- 
 lets have, as might be expected, 
 been found here. Stamford Hill is 
 further interesting as commanding a 
 fine view, in which Roughtor and 
 Brown Willy are conspicuous though 
 distant objects. 
 
 The inclined plane of the Bude Canal , 
 
 which the stranger should visit, is on 
 Hobbacott Down, l£ m. from Strat- 
 ton, and just to the rt. of the Hols- 
 worthy road. It is an ingenious 
 substitute for a chain of locks, and 
 consists of a steep roadway, about 
 900 ft. in length, which is furnished 
 with two lines of rails dipping at 
 each end into the canal, and traversed 
 S 3 
 
394 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 25 . — Plymouth to Bude Haven . 
 
 by an endless chain. The barges, 
 which are provided with small iron 
 wheels, and generally loaded with 
 sand, are raised or lowered on this 
 roadway by being attached to the 
 chain, which is set in motion by two 
 enormous buckets, each 8 ft. in diam., 
 alternately filled with water, and 
 working in wells 225 ft. in depth. 
 As soon as the descending bucket has 
 reached the bottom of the well, it 
 strikes upon a stake which raises a 
 plug, when the water runs out in one 
 minute, and finds its way through an 
 adit to the canal below. This bucket 
 is then in readiness to be raised by 
 the other, which, having been filled 
 with water, descends in its turn. In 
 case of any accident happening to the 
 machinery, the water can at any time 
 be emptied in one minute through 
 valves with which a chain communi- 
 cates; this chain being ingeniously 
 made to wind and unwind as the 
 buckets ascend and descend, so as to 
 be always of the proper length. A 
 steam-engine is also at hand should 
 the buckets become unserviceable. 
 This canal extends from Bude to 
 Launceston, sending off a branch to 
 Holsworthy, and the barges climb 
 from one level to another by 7 of 
 these inclined planes. One is situ- 
 ated at Marhamchnrch , 1 m. from Strat- 
 ton, but this is worked by a common 
 waterwheel. Marhamchurch, ded. to 
 St. Morwenna, is Perp., and has some 
 good bench-ends. 
 
 J m. from Stratton towards Mar- 
 hamchurch, in the orchard of a farm 
 called Binhamy , is a quadrangular 
 moat overgrown with briers, mark- 
 ing the site of a manor-house or 
 castle, built, as seems probable, 
 by a certain Ranulph de Blanch- 
 minster, about 1335, of whom many 
 strange legends are current in the 
 parish. Tradition represents him 
 as an eccentric personage, who 
 lived retired from the world in 
 his castle, and protected from in- 
 trusion by a drawbridge, which was 
 
 generally raised. After his death, 
 which occurred, it is said, without a 
 person to witness it, a will was found 
 bequeathing a large amount of pro- 
 perty to the poor of the parish, 
 who have now annually 80/. divided 
 amongst them as the interest of this 
 fund. The country-people call him 
 u old Blowmanger,” and entertain a 
 superstitious dread of the spot where 
 he dwelt; and this has partly ori- 
 ginated in the circumstance of hares 
 having been started from the moat, 
 which always, as it happened, es- 
 caped the dogs. It was therefore 
 concluded that the spirit of Blanch- 
 minster haunted the spot in the 
 shape of this animal. The effigy of 
 Blanchminster may be seen in the 
 church of Stratton. The manors of 
 both Stratton and Binhamy belonged 
 from a very early period to this 
 family, “ de Albo Monasterio” — 
 “ Blanchminster.” 
 
 4 m. S. of Stratton is the pretty 
 village of Launcells , and Launcells 
 House , seat of C. B. Kingdon, Esq. 
 The ch. (Perp., with granite arches 
 and very good carved bench-ends) 
 contains a monument, dated 1644, to 
 John Chamond, one of the former 
 possessors of this manor. In the 
 parish is Morton , a farm belonging 
 to Mr. Kingdon, and of interest as 
 an ancient possession, and retaining 
 the name, of Robert of Mortain or 
 “Morton,” Earl of Cornwall, the 
 half-brother of William the Con- 
 queror. 
 
 At Week St. Mary , 7 m., com- 
 monly called St. Mary Week, is the 
 ruin of a chantry, founded by one 
 Dame Percival about the beginning 
 of the 14th centy. The history of 
 this person is curious as connected 
 with her maiden-name, Boruiventura. 
 She is said to have been a labourer’s 
 daughter, who, one day tending 
 sheep upon the moor, engaged the 
 attention of a London merchant who 
 happened to be passing. Pleased 
 with her appearance, he begged her 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 25 . — Bude Haven , 
 
 395 
 
 of her parents, carried her to Lon- 
 don as a servant, and after the 
 lapse of a few years, at the death of 
 his wife, made her the mistress of his 
 house. Dying himself shortly after- 
 wards, he bequeathed to her a large 
 amount of property. She then mar- 
 ried a person of the name of Gall, 
 whom she also survived ; when Sir 
 John Percival, Lord Mayor of Lon- 
 don, became her 3rd husband. The 
 constitution of a London citizen was, 
 however, no match for that of a 
 “ wilding ” from the moors ; and ac- 
 cordingly the mayor died while life 
 was yet vigorous in Dame Percival. 
 The lady, however, was by this time 
 contented with her experience as a 
 wife, and, retiring to her native vil- 
 lage, devoted the remainder of her 
 days to acts of charity. In these 
 her 3 husbands were not forgotten, 
 and for the benefit of their souls she 
 founded and endowed this chantry, 
 which in the 16th centy. shared the 
 fate of its brethren. Week is the 
 A. S. wic = a dwelling place. 
 
 Jacobstow, about 8 m. S. of Stratton, 
 was the birthplace of Digory Wheare, 
 1573, author of a Life of Camden and 
 other works. Adjoining it is Berry 
 Court , a mansion of the olden time, 
 now a farmhouse. 
 
 lj m. Bude Haven {Inn: Falcon 
 Hotel, best ; Bude Hotel), a small 
 but growing watering-place on a 
 grand and curious coast. It com- 
 mands delightful sea-views and is 
 begirt by unfrequented hills. (The 
 distance from Bude to Clovelly is 
 18 m., see Rte. 18. From Bude to 
 Tintagel, 21 m., Rte. 22.) The 
 haven consists of the mouth of the 
 Bude Canal, opening to a shallow 
 bay, the sand of which has been blown 
 inland by the N.W. winds, and is 
 heaped to some distance in arid dunes. 
 In the midst of these hillocks, and 
 opposite to the hotel, is the house 
 built by Sir Goldsworthy Gurney, 
 the inventor of the Bude Light. 
 The bathing here is peculiar. The 
 
 tides are too violent for machines, 
 and canvas tents are erected on the 
 sands for the use of the bathers, who 
 have to encounter high and heavy 
 waves rolling in from the Atlantic. 
 The shore is however shallow for 
 some distance out, and a jump 
 carries the bather over each wave 
 and lands him safely beyond it. 
 Swimming is not easy. There is no 
 land between Bude and Newfound- 
 land, and sharks have been known 
 to make their appearance in Bude 
 Haven. The bay is sheltered by an 
 embankment, which, constructed in 
 a similar manner to the Plymouth 
 Breakwater, connects a rock, called 
 the Chapel Rock, with the shore ; but 
 Bude has been the scene of many ter- 
 rible shipwrecks, as in October 1862, 
 when a large ship, the Bencollen, was 
 dashed to pieces here, and only two 
 of her crew escaped. At low water 
 this bay is a scene of consider- 
 able bustle, as it supplies the 
 neighbouring parts of Devon and 
 Cornwall with sea-sand, which is 
 used as manure and carried up the 
 country in such amazing quantities 
 that 4000 horse-loads have been taken 
 from the shore in one day. The con- 
 veyance of this sand is calculated to 
 cost 30,000Z. per annum, and forms 
 the principal commerce on the Bude 
 and Launceston Canal and its branch 
 to Holsworthy. 
 
 The vast and picturesque sea-cliffs 
 in this part of Cornwall are a great 
 attraction to Bude, and the climate 
 is far drier and more free from fog 
 than most other parts of the country, 
 but the accommodation for visitors 
 is still very limited. The strata, be- 
 longing to the carbonaceous forma- 
 tion, dip at right angles to the shore, 
 and for this reason, as offering but a 
 feeble resistance to the waves, are in 
 a ruinous condition. The bands of 
 strata are also so narrow and dis- 
 tinctly marked as to give a ribboned 
 appearance to the cliffs, and are 
 everywhere varied by the most irre- 
 gular contortions. , 
 
396 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 25 . — Plymouth to Bude Haven . 
 
 Compass Point , on the W. side of 
 the haven, commands an excellent 
 view of this rugged coast, and is 
 crowned by an octagonal tower, a 
 temple of the winds, the sides of 
 which are turned to the 8 cardinal 
 points. At the foot of this tower 
 is a seat from which a very singular 
 ridge projects into the sea, since it 
 resembles a wall, the surfaces being 
 smooth and precipitous. A striking 
 cl iff in the neighbourhood is Beacon 
 Hill , £ m. W., presenting a sheer 
 precipice of about 300 ft. : but the 
 points most calculated to delight and 
 astonish the traveller are the head- 
 lands of Hennacliff , N. of Bude, 
 alt. 450 ft., and the Dazard , the west- 
 ern boundary of Widemouth Bay , alt. 
 550 ft. 
 
 The walk along the road from 
 Bude to Boscastle is a very delight- 
 ful one. A good road, close to the 
 coast, has been made to St. Gennys , 
 about 10 m. from Bude by road, but 
 shorter for the pedestrian, who can 
 keep on the turf by the roadside and 
 diverge to each point of the cliffs 
 as he pleases. After leaving the 
 Beacon Hill he will pass Widemouth, 
 Black road, Melhuach (Mellook), 
 where the water is deep close in 
 shore and a harbour of refuge has 
 been sometimes suggested, — till 
 opposite Dazard Point the road , 
 turns somewhat inland to avoid 
 the “ bottoms,” — and the pedes- 
 trian will make his way by farm 
 roads to St. Genny’s “ church-town,” 
 quaintly nestled in a hollow near the 
 top of a hill. The church is poor, 
 but picturesquely placed on a slope 
 so steep that the upper part of the 
 churchyard is nearly level with the 
 roof. The hill above the village is 
 Penkinna Head , and the view at the 
 end of the point is among the finest 
 on this coast. Immediately below 
 is Crackington Cove , bounded on the 
 other side by the cloven headland of 
 Cambeck. The lofty heights of 
 Resparvell Down tower up S.W., 
 and the black cliffs of Boscastle 
 
 and Tintagel, are seen to great 
 advantage. On the N. observe Castle 
 Point , separated from the main land 
 by a deep valley on the S., and 
 connected with it by a narrow ridge 
 E. On the summit are remains of a 
 circular camp. The pedestrian can 
 then descend to Crackington Cove 
 (Rte. 22), and proceed to Boscastle 
 over Resparvell Down, resting awhile 
 on the barrow on the summit to 
 observe the extensive prospect. 
 Brown Willy and Roughtor are well 
 seen ; and the three church towns 
 of Forrabury, Trevalga, and Tin- 
 tagel, stand nearly in a line more or 
 less S.E. 
 
 (It should here be said that beside > 
 the books of the Rev. R. S. Hawker, 
 
 — see Morwenstow , post — without a 
 full acquaintance with which no one 
 should visit this district, Mr. G. 
 Macdonald’s * Annals of a Seaboard 
 Parish’ contains much admirable 
 description of this coast, including 
 Bude and Tintagel.) 
 
 At Ponghill , 1J m. N.E. of Bude, 
 is a Perp. church with a fine pin- 
 nacled tower, and ancient carved 
 benches. Near the village is the 
 old farmhouse of Burshill, now owned 
 and occupied by a Mr. Jewell, but 
 before, for 16 generations, the home 
 of a family named Bryant. Here is 
 , preserved a very remarkable bed- 
 stead which passes by the name of 
 “King Charles’s,” and is said to 
 have been the couch of Charles I. 
 after the battle of Stamford Hill — 
 of course untruly, since the king 
 was not there. The head-board is 
 covered with bronzed groups, repre- 
 senting a war-chariot, horses, &c. ; 
 the large posts are also ornamented 
 with bronze. It is probably Eliza- I ; 
 bethan, if not earlier. 
 
 Kilhhampton (Pop. 1198) is situated 
 5 m. N.E from Bude, the road to it 
 being uphill the greater part of the 
 way. The Church is an ancient struc- 
 ture built by the Granvilles (or 
 Grenvilles, who became lords of the 
 
397 
 
 Cornwall. Route 25 . — Kilkhampton — Combe Valley . 
 
 manor very soon after the Conquest), [ 
 and celebrated as the scene of ! 
 Hervey’s ‘ Meditations among the 
 Tombs.’ It has much interesting 
 Norman work, the finest portion being 
 the S. door, with shafts and bands 
 and beak-head and zigzag mould- 
 ings. The rest of the ch. is chiefly 
 Perp. Here is a monument to 
 the memory of Sir Beville Gren- 
 ville, the hero of Stamford Hill, who 
 wa3 killed at the battle of Lansdown 
 in 1643. The inscription should be 
 read. The coffins of the Earls of 
 Bath are deposited in a vault under 
 the E end of the S. aisle, where, 
 says Hervey, “they lie ranged in 
 mournful order, in a sort of silent 
 pomp.” They are partly covered 
 with copper-plates bearing the arms 
 and titles of their occupants. This 
 vault, when Hervey wrote, was open ; 
 but it has long been properly closed. 
 The church was admirably restored 
 (1860) by The Rev. Lord John 
 Thynne, under the superintendence 
 of Mr. G. G. Scott. There is a very 
 wide view over sea and land from the 
 top of the ch. tower. Brown Willy 
 and Roughtor are visible, and the 
 coast southward to Trevire Head. 
 The Grenvilles — who, as the inscrip- 
 tion on Sir Beville’s monument re- 
 cords, profess to be “ descended in a 
 direct line from Robert, 2nd son of 
 the warlike Rollo, 1st Duke of Nor- 
 mandy ” — were long seated at Sto>r , a 
 magnificent mansion above the neigh- 
 bouring village of Combe. John, 
 3rd son of Sir Beville Grenville, re- 
 built it 1680. He had been created, 
 1661, Earl of Bath, a title which be- 
 came extinct on the early death of 
 his grandson, 1711. Stow then de- 
 scended to his sister, widow of 
 George Lord Carteret, created Coun- 
 tess Granville, and through her it 
 came to the present possessor, the 
 Rev. Lord John Thynne. The house 
 was dismantled 1720, and a moated 
 site is at i his day the only vestige of 
 it. The corner of the wood, at which ! 
 Sir Beville appeared to his wife after j 
 
 [ his death on Lansdowne field, is 
 still pointed out. Pictures of Stow 
 in its old grandeur will be found in 
 Kingsley’s ‘ Westward Ho.’ The 
 grandfather of Sir Beville Grenville 
 was Sir Richard, a very distin- 
 guished seaman ; who in 1591, being 
 then Vice-Admiral of England, was 
 sent with a squadron of 7 ships to 
 intercept the Spanish galloons. He 
 fell in with the enemy’s fleet of 52 
 sail near the Terceira Islands ; re- 
 pulsed them 15 times in a continued 
 fight, and died himself, two days 
 later, on board the ship of the 
 Spanish commander. It is to this 
 that the lines on Sir Beville’s monu- 
 ment refer — 
 
 “Where shall the next famed Granvilles* 
 ashes stand? 
 
 Thy grandsire tills the sea, and thou the 
 land.”) 
 
 A small manor-house facing the 
 sea, in a very exposed situation, 
 has been built for the present pos- 
 sessor by Mr. G. G. Scott, and is 
 occupied by the vicar. 
 
 Just below Stow is “ King Wil- 
 liam’s Bridge,” to the building of 
 which K. Wm. IV. gave 20/. at the 
 suggestion of the Rev. R. S. Hawker. 
 
 Combe Valley is the name of a pic- 
 turesque bottom , commencing just 
 N. of Kilkhampton and opening to 
 the sea between lofty cliffs ; and 
 farther N. the country towards the 
 hamlet of Morwenstow is here and 
 there furrowed by deep hollows, 
 which are prettily wooded. The 
 coast in the neighbourhood is every- 
 where magnificent, and at Stanbury 
 Creek “exhibits a fine example of 
 the curvatures and contortions of 
 rocks, the strata being heaped on 
 each other apparently in utter con- 
 fusion, dipping towards every point 
 of the compass and at various de- 
 grees of inclination.” In the parish of 
 Kilkhampton is a curious old manor- 
 house called Aldercombe , belonging 
 , to Sir G. S. Stucley, Bart. It is 
 1 17th centy., and a very good sped- 
 
398 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 25 . — Plymouth to Bude Haven . 
 
 men of the gentleman’s house of that 
 period. 
 
 Morwenstow is 4 m. N.W. of Kilk- 
 hampton, and 7 m. from Stratton, 
 on a height bounded by cliffs 420 ft. 
 above the sea; and, though a poor 
 village in itself, contains a splendid 
 old Church , of great interest to the 
 ecclesiologist. It is chiefly Norman, 
 and the S. door and elaborately 
 sculptured caps and arches of the 
 nave are well worthy of notice. 
 There are besides a Norm, font, an ela- 
 borate screen, and monuments to the 
 Kempthornes, the Waddons, and 
 other Cornish families now extinct. 
 The ch. contains a curious old pitch- 
 pipe. The porch is covered with short 
 ferns (not the true Maidenhair, but 
 Asplenium trichomanes ) ; and in the 
 ch.-yard, through the drifting spray, 
 are discerned memorials, including 
 the graves of 3 entire crews of 
 ships lost here, which simply tell 
 their tale, but bear affecting tes- 
 timony to the perils of the neigh- 
 bouring shore. “ All were decently 
 consigned to Christian sepulture. 
 They were not piled one upon an- 
 other in a common pit, but are buried 
 side by side each in his own grave. 
 Those who have thus honoured the 
 dead will seldom fail in their duty 
 to the living.” (Trans. Exeter Dioc. 
 Arch. Soc.. 1864.) One of these me- 
 morials is the figure-head of a brig ; 
 another is a battered boat, resting 
 above the remains of those who pe- 
 rished in her ; and another the 
 broken oars, which have been formed 
 into a rude cross. Morwenstow is 
 the rectory of the Rev. R. S. Hawker, 
 whose volumes — ‘Cornish Ballads 
 and other Poems/ and ‘Footprints 
 of Former Men in Old Cornwall ’ — 
 should be in the hands of all visitors 
 to this coast. They most faithfully 
 reflect the wild character of the 
 country, and contain much very 
 curious folk-lore and tradition. The 
 picturesque rectory adjoins the ch.: 
 it is of modern erection, but con- 
 
 tains some Jacobean wood-carving, 
 Sir Beville Grenville’s chair, and 
 other memorials of loyal Cornish- 
 men. Half-way down the cliffs in 
 front is the well of St. Morwenna, 
 the patroness. She was the daughter 
 of an Irish king, who cured by her 
 prayers a son of King Egbert. He 
 built for her the monastery of Polles- 
 worth, in Warwickshire, where she 
 trained St. Edith, St. Osyth, and 
 many others. 
 
 3 m. from Kilkhampton, due E., 
 is a reservoir for the supply of the 
 Bude Canal. It covers 70 acres. 
 
 About 3 m. N.E. of Kilkhamp- 
 ton the country rises in bleak and 
 elevated hills, which are divided into 
 furzy crofts and rush-covered swamps. 
 Upon these, near the border of the 
 county, the Hartland road passes close 
 to Wooley Barrows (rt.), i m. S. of 
 which rise the two rivers Tamar and 
 Torridge. They drain from a dreary 
 bog down opposite sides of the hill, 
 and their waters are soon a great way 
 apart ; the one river hastening south- 
 ward in its course of 59 m. to 
 Plymouth ; the other trending north- 
 ward, to run nearly an equal dis- 
 tance (53 m.) before it reaches the 
 sea below Bideford. 
 
399 
 
 Cornwall. Route 26 . — Truro to Falmouth , by Penrhyn . 
 
 ROUTE 26. 
 
 TRURO TO FALMOUTH, BY PENRYN. 
 
 (FALMOUTH HARBOUR AND IN- 
 LETS.) 
 
 (This is a short line in connection 
 with the Cornwall Rly. The distance 
 is performed in half-an-hour.) 
 
 The Rly . (Ilf m.) is carried over 
 the Penwether Viaduct, 173 yds. long 
 and 84 high, f m. from Truro, and 
 through a tunnel in the slate, 484 
 yds., at Sparnick. Viaduct at Ring- 
 wall ; also at Carnon, 264 yds. long. 
 
 About 2 m. from Truro, 1., is 
 Killiow (i. e. the secluded place, 
 or place of refuge), seat of the Rev. 
 John Daubuz. It was the old re- 
 sidence of the G watkins. In the 
 
 house is a collection of ancient pic- 
 tures. The (new) adjoining Church 
 of Kea , more like a riding-school 
 than a church in appearance, con- 
 tains a very fine font of the Norm, 
 character so common in Cornwall. 
 Here are also a chalice and paten 
 which belonged to Cardinal Rene 
 d'Amboise. The mineral ochre used 
 in the preparation of paint and in 
 staining paper is procured in this 
 parish. 
 
 Hm. 1 . Killiganocn , seat of the late 
 Admiral Spry, The house was burnt 
 down, May, 1872. 
 
 A little farther rt. is Carnon. 
 The traveller will observe that 
 the valley is everywhere furrowed 
 by mining operations. The Carnon 
 Tin Stream-works , which for the 
 present are abandoned, were here 
 conducted on a large scale, and in 
 a very spirited manner, the water 
 having been actually banked from 
 the works, which were carried on 
 for some distance in the bed of the 
 j estuary. The space of ground thus 
 
 streamed exceeded a mile in length, 
 by 300 yards in width. In this the 
 tin stratum, which varied in thick- 
 ness from a few inches to 12 feet, 
 was found at a depth of from 40 to 
 50 feet below the surface, under 
 accumulations of marine and river 
 detritus, consisting of mud, sand, and 
 silt. One of these beds contained the 
 trunks of trees, and the horns and 
 bones of deer ; and in the tin-ground 
 grains of gold and pieces of wood-tin 
 were occasionally discovered. In the 
 village of Carnon are extensive works 
 for the preparation of arsenic from 
 arsenical pyrites. 
 
 The Great Adit , which, passing 
 from mine to mine through the 
 Redruth and Gwennap districts, is 
 calculated, with its branches, to pur- 
 sue a subterranean course of nearly 
 30 m., discharges its waters, some- 
 times to the amount of 2000 cub. ft. 
 in a minute, through Carnon valley 
 into Restronguet Creek. 
 
 4 m. from Truro is Perranwell 
 Stat. Perran Arworthal ( i.e . Perran, 
 or St. Piran “the wonderful ”) is 
 a village romantically situated in 
 a deep bottom or dell, at the head 
 of Restronguet Creek, which is here 
 joined by the Kennal , a small stream 
 rising near Carnmenellis , and work- 
 ing 39 water-wheels in its course 
 of m. This dell presents a de- 
 lightful contrast to the rough hills in 
 the neighbourhood. It is densely 
 clothed with trees, through which 
 protrude the harsh features of the 
 county, rugged rocks, but here 
 mantled with mosses and creepers. 
 A large iron-foundry harmonises with 
 this picturesque scene. The ch. is 
 a small building dedicated to St. 
 Piran, the patron of tinners ; and 
 near it gushes forth the little Well 
 of St. Piran. The woods above this 
 valley belong to 
 
 Carclew {%. e. “grey rock”), Colonel 
 Arthur Tremayne, late the seat of 
 Sir Charles Lemon, Bart., long M.P. 
 for West Cornwall. The park is of 
 great extent, full of deer, and quite a 
 
400 
 
 Route 26 . — Truro to 
 
 forest of fine timber. The botanist 
 may notice growing under the trees, 
 Erica ciliaris (a ciliated variety of 
 Erica tetralix , which is found wild no- 
 where but in this neighbourhood), a 
 heath confined to the extreme S. of 
 the kingdom, and rare except on 
 this estate. He will be delighted 
 with the gardens, so richly are they 
 stored with curious plants. For 
 many years Sir Charles Lemon 
 cultivated a collection of exotic 
 trees and shrubs, and, as the climate 
 is peculiar, the result of his expe- 
 riments is highly interesting. The 
 magnificent collection of rhododen- 
 drons is alone worth a visit. Rhodo- 
 dendron arboreum, from the Hima- 
 layas, here really becomes a tree. 
 Here are fine specimens of the 
 Lucombe oak ( Lucombe was gardener 
 at Carclew), an accidental hybrid 
 between the cork-tree ( Q. suber) and 
 the Turkey oak. There are also, in 
 the gardens at Carclew, a number 
 of hybrids between other oaks. Of 
 the genus pinus the most remark- 
 able are the Indian, Mexican, and 
 Californian kinds, well showing 
 how favourable the Cornish climate 
 is to the growth of coniferse. 
 Loudon, in his Encyclopaedia, de- 
 scribes many plants flourishing at 
 Carclew as either quite irregular or 
 in a state of growth not to be seen 
 in other places. 
 
 8j m. Penryn Stat. ( Inn : King’s 
 Arms). (Collegewood Viaduct is 
 100 ft. high, and 320 yds. long.) 
 This old borough and market-town 
 (pop. 3547) is pleasantly situated on 
 the declivity of a hill, at the head of 
 a branch of Falmouth Harbour, and 
 opposite the pretty ch. of St. Gluvias 
 (in which parish it is or was situated), 
 embosomed in trees. It is in a 
 warm sheltered valley, richly fertile, 
 and particularly productive in early 
 vegetables. These with granite form 
 the exports of the place. 
 
 The borough was incorporated by 
 Jas. I. The corporation possess a 
 
 Falmouth , by Penrhyn . Sect. II. 
 
 silver cup and cover, given by a 
 Lady Killigrew, with this inscrip- 
 tion — “ From maior to maior to the 
 towne of Permarin when they re- 
 ceived me that was in great misery, 
 J. K. (Jane Killigrew), 1633.” The 
 history of this lady is doubtful. Hals 
 declares that her “ misery ” was 
 brought about by her having, with a 
 party of ruffians, boarded certain 
 Dutch ships, killed their owners, and 
 carried off two barrels of Spanish 
 “pieces of eight.” Lady Killigrew 
 was pardoned by great interest, the 
 others were hanged. The lady was 
 certainly divorced, for whatever rea- 
 son, and was protected by the inhab. 
 of Penryn. She was a dau. of Sir 
 George Fermor, of Easton-Neston. 
 Penryn had formerly a palace of the 
 bps. of Exeter, and there was a col- 
 legiate ch. at Glasney , within the 
 bounds of the borough, founded by 
 Bp. Bronscombe, c. 1260. Of, the 
 former no trace is left, but some 
 fragments of the latter remain in a 
 garden, and hewn stone, apparently 
 from its walls, is rather abundant. 
 
 The chief objects of curiosity are 
 (of the first it must unfortunately be 
 said were) the Tolmen (Rte. 28), 4 m. 
 distant, rt, of the road to Constantine 
 through Mabe, and the granite-quar- 
 ries in the parishes of Mabe and 
 Constantine. The most important 
 of these works are about 2 m. 
 from Penryn on each side of the 
 old road leading to Helston. Pen- 
 ryn granite has been long known 
 for its fine grain, and is the material 
 of which Waterloo Bridge and the 
 Docks at Chatham are constructed. 
 Nearly 20,000 tons have been shipped 
 here in the course of the year, but as 
 the supply is regulated by the de- 
 mand it necessarily varies much. 
 Before export the stone is approxi- 
 mately valued at Is. 9 d. per cubic foot. 
 Beryls have been found in a quarry 
 between Falmouth and the Tolmen. 
 The quarries of Mr. Freeman pro- 
 duced the testimonial to Carlo Alberto 
 at Turin ; and can occasionally show 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Ko ate 2 6 . — Falmouth - — Pendennis. 
 
 401 
 
 monoliths of several thousand cubic ' 
 feet, perfectly sound, and without a 
 single defect. The geologist may ob- 
 serve slate altered by the proximity | 
 of granite in the cutting of the road 
 on the ascent from Penryn towards 
 Constantine ; and the botanist Antir- 
 rhinum repens (or creeping snap- 
 dragon), a very rare plant, in the 
 neighbouring hedges. 
 
 Some small streams descend from 
 the high land W. of the town, and 
 one, falling in a cascade and turning 
 a w'ater-wheel, deserves notice as 
 originating a picturesque scene. A 
 very beautiful view of Falmouth 
 Harbour, and St. Gluvias ch. and 
 glebe, is commanded from Treleaver 
 Hill , on the road to Roscrow, and 
 about J m. from Penryn. Enys 
 (J. S. Enys, Esq.), the seat of the 
 Enys family from a very ancient 
 time (at least from the reign of Ed. I.), 
 is situated rt. of the road to Carclew 
 and Perran Wharf. Its grounds con- 
 tain a wych elm of enormous size. 
 (In the Cornish miracle-play of the 
 ‘ Creation * (ed. by Davies Gilbert), 
 Enys and some adjoining lands are 
 given as rewards to the angels who 
 “ build ” the universe.) 
 
 3 m. Falmouth. The stat. is close to 
 Pendennis Castle, and is approached 
 by a bridge. ( Inns : Falmouth 
 
 Hotel, opened 1867 ; Pearce’s Royal 
 Hotel; Selley’s Green Bank Hotel.) 
 This town, seated on the shore of 
 one of the finest harbours in the 
 kingdom, derives its principal in- 
 terest from the beauty of its position, 
 as it mainly consists of one long nar- 
 row street, of a mean appearance, 
 straggling along the side of the 
 water. Of late years, however, Fal- 
 mouth, like other towns, has been ex- 
 tended and improved, and there are 
 now at either end of it, and on the 
 heights above the shore, handsome 
 and commodious dwellings, which 
 command an uninterrupted view of 
 the estuary. Falmouth (pop. 5709) 
 suffered much from a fire in 1862, 
 
 which destroyed a considerable por- 
 tion of the town. But the oldest 
 part of Falmouth is of a compa- 
 ratively modern date. In the reign 
 of Elizabeth Sir Walter Raleigh vi- 
 sited the harbour on his return from 
 the coast of Guinea, and found on 
 the site of the present town but one 
 solitary house, in addition to a man- 
 sion called Arwenack, the seat of 
 the ancient family of Killigrew. 
 Sir Walter was struck with the ad- 
 vantages of this noble estuary, and 
 on his return to London made a re- 
 presentation to the council on the 
 subject. Attention being thus drawn 
 to the spot, there soon collected on 
 the shore a village, which, at first 
 called Smithike , and then by the sin- 
 gular name of Penny-come-quick (ob- 
 viously a corruption of the Cornish 
 Pen-coomb-ick = the head of the 
 river valley), gradually rose into im- 
 portance, when, in 1652, by act of 
 parliament, the custom-house was re- 
 moved to it from Penryn, and it be- 
 came the centre of a busy trade. In 
 1660 a royal proclamation declared 
 that henceforward its name should 
 be Falmouth ; and in 1661 it was 
 invested by charter with all the 
 dignities of a corporate town. The 
 buildings are ranged along the 
 heights and shore of the western 
 side of the harbour, which ter- 
 minates in a bluff point bounding 
 the entrance of the haven, and 
 crowned by the grey walls of 
 
 Pendennis (Pen Dinas , head of the 
 fort?) Castle , 198 feet above the 
 sea. A circular tower, erected in 
 the reign of Henry VIII., and now 
 the residence of the lieut. -governor, 
 is the most ancient part of this for- 
 tress, which was strengthened and 
 enlarged in the reign of Elizabeth. 
 Occupying a considerable area, the 
 castle is fortified on the N.E. and 
 N.W. by bastions and connecting 
 curtains. The defences on the other 
 sides have been constructed in con- 
 formity with the shape of the ground. 
 
402 Route 26. — Truro to Falmouth , by Penrhyn. Sect. II. 
 
 It is further protected by outlying 
 batteries, and is well furnished with 
 barracks and magazines. In 1644 
 Pendennis afforded shelter to the 
 queen, Henrietta Maria, when em- 
 barking for France ; and in 1646 to 
 Prince Charles, who hence sailed to 
 Sciliy. Soon after his departure the 
 place was invested by the forces of 
 the Parliament, and its gallant go- 
 vernor, John Arundell of Trerice 
 (commonly called “ John-for-the- 
 King”), began that stubborn defence 
 by which he so highly distinguished 
 himself. Although in his 87th year, 
 he held the castle for 6 months 
 against the utmost efforts of the 
 enemy ; and when at length hunger 
 had compelled him to capitulate, he 
 had the satisfaction of knowing that 
 the royal standard had floated longer 
 on Pendennis than on any other fort 
 in England. The ramparts command 
 a view of extreme beauty, in which 
 the stranger may contrast the rugged 
 coast of Falmouth Bay, bounded on 
 the W. by Rosemullion Head and the 
 Manacles (i.e. “maen-eglos,” “church- 
 stone ”), with the clustering houses 
 and tranquil scene of the harbour. 
 On his return to the town he may 
 make a circuit by a lane on the 1. 
 and the heights of Falmouth. In the 
 fields adjoining this lane are remains 
 of the earthworks thrown up during 
 the siege ; and at a little distance to 
 the rt. the ancient seat of the Killi- 
 grews, Arvoenack , now the property of 
 the Earl of Kimberley. An obelisk in 
 the grounds of this estate commemo- 
 rates the visit of Sir Walter Raleigh. 
 
 The Royal Cornwall Polytechnic So- 
 ciety meets annually at Falmouth. 
 It was the first institution of the 
 kind established in England, and 
 was founded in 1833 for the en- 
 couragement of the sciences, art, and 
 industry. It originated in the exer- 
 tions of a lady — Miss A. M. Fox, of 
 Grove Hill ; the Queen is the patron, 
 Augustus Smith, Esq., of Sciliy, the 
 president. The Hall contains some 
 
 portraits, including those of Sir 
 Humphry Davy and Richard Carew, 
 author of the 4 Survey of Cornwall/ 
 and several busts of eminent per- 
 sons connected with the county, 
 viz., of the Prince of Wales, Lord 
 de Dunstanville, Davies Gilbert, Sir 
 H. de la Beche, Sir Charles Lemon, 
 
 Mr. Adams the astronomer, and Dr. 
 Paris, founder of the Royal Geolo- 
 gical Society of Cornwall and bio- 
 grapher of Davy. The Society has 
 published many vols. of Transactions, 
 and at the annual exhibition in the 
 autumn the principal gentry of the 
 county assemble, when papers are 
 read, models and works of art dis- 
 played, and prizes awarded to the 
 most deserving. 
 
 The climate of this town is remark- 
 able for equability and mildness, in 
 proof of which exotic plants flourish 
 the year round in the open air. Mr. 
 
 Fox, of Grove Hill, obtained the 
 Banksian medal for acclimatising up- 
 wards of 200 foreign plants. Orange 
 and lemon trees are grown against 
 the garden walls, and yield an abun- 
 dant return of fruit. 
 
 The parish Church of Falmouth, 
 built soon after the Restoration, was 
 ded. by Bp. Seth Ward to the me- 
 mory of Charles I., “ King and 
 Martyr. 
 
 Grove Hill (G. T. Fox, Esq.) con- 
 tains some valuable paintings, includ- 
 ing — Titian , Portrait of Ignatius 
 Loyola ; Ann. Carracci, The Syro-Phoe- 
 nician Woman; Bassano , Jacob at the 
 Well; and specimens of L . da Vinci , 
 Correggio , Claude , and G. Poussin . 
 
 Tregedna , seat of Joshua Fox, W. 
 of the town (and contiguous to Pen - 
 gerrick , Robert Were Fox), is also 
 decorated with valuable paintings. • \ 
 Here are — Titian , “ Filia Roberti 
 Strozzi, Nobilis Florentini ;” Vandyke , 
 a Dead Christ ; A. del Sarto , a Holy 
 Family; and works by Raffaelle , 
 Sassoferrato , Morland, &c. 
 
 Gyllyngdune (Mrs. Waters), is the 
 largest house and one of the pret- 
 tiest spots in the neighbourhood, 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 26 . — Falmouth Harbour. 
 
 403 
 
 commanding a most beautiful view 
 of the harbour and its castle and 
 the blue expanse of sea. The name 
 means William's Height , and is con- 
 nected with that of the seat below 
 — Gyllantaes, William's Field , which, 
 according to tradition, is so called 
 as the burial-place of Prince Wil- 
 liam, son of Henry I., drowned on 
 the passage from Normandy. 
 
 The Cornwall Yacht Club , of which 
 the head-quarters are at Falmouth, 
 received the title of “ Royal ” in 
 1871 ; and the Prince of Wales, as 
 Duke of Cornwall, presents a cup for 
 the annual regatta. 
 
 Falmouth Harbour is the principal 
 attraction to the traveller searching 
 for scenes of natural beauty. Its 
 winding shores, everywhere pene- 
 trated by deep and wooded inlets, 
 afford many a subject for the ex- 
 ercise of the pencil. It has been 
 celebrated from a remote period for 
 its extent and commodiousness. Le- 
 land speaks of it as “ a haven very 
 notable and famous, and in a manner 
 the most principal of all Britayne ; 
 and Carew observes that “ a hun- 
 dred sail of vessels may anchor in it, 
 and not one see the mast of another.” 
 Its entrance, about 1 m. wide, is de- 
 fended by the castles of Pendennis 
 and Mawes. In the middle of the 
 passage lies the Black Rock , an ob- 
 struction of little import, as, though 
 covered by the tide, its situation is 
 marked by a beacon, and there is on 
 either side of it a broad and deep 
 channel. The sea, having entered 
 through this opening, immediately 
 expands into a basin, so capacious, 
 that, during the French war, buoys 
 were laid down in it for 16 sail of the 
 line, and in 1815 a fleet of 300 vessels, 
 including several of large size, took 
 shelter within it, and rode out a gale 
 without a casualty. The centre of 
 this basin is called the Garrick Road- 
 stead, while the name of Falmouth 
 Harbour , properly speaking, exclu- 
 sively attaches to that part of the 
 
 estuary which borders the town. 
 The haven, however, extends as far 
 as the entrance of the Truro River, a 
 distance of 4 m., and in a sheet of 
 water 1 m. in its average breadth, 
 but opposite Falmouth expanded to 
 2 m. Its shores are penetrated by 
 the following inlets, which form 
 supplementary harbours, completely 
 land-locked, (a) An arm of the sea, 
 which runs northward of the town to 
 Penryn. On its shore, opposite Fal- 
 mouth, is the village of Flushing , 
 reputed the warmest place in Corn- 
 wall. This shore terminates in Tre- 
 fusis Point , a pretty object from Fal- 
 mouth, crowned, as it is, by trees, 
 which embosom an ancient mansion 
 of the same name, belonging to Lord 
 Clinton, but tenanted by a farmer. 
 In 1814 this rocky point was the 
 scene of a disastrous shipwreck. In 
 a furious gale of wind the ‘ Queen 9 
 transport, laden with invalids from 
 the Peninsula, was driven from her 
 anchors and dashed upon it. The 
 wounded men had little chance of 
 escaping, and as many as 1 95 perished. 
 140 bodies were found, and buried in 
 the churchyards of Mylor, Budock, 
 and St. Gluvias. (b) The next inlet, 
 in proceeding N. up the harbour, is 
 Mylor Creek , a winding piece of 
 water, extending to the woods of Enys 
 (J. S. Enys, Esq.). At its mouth, 
 in Mylor Pool , a favourite anchorage 
 with vessels of small tonnage, the 
 stranger will notice a hulk, lying as 
 a coal depot off the little dockyard 
 of Mylor, and in view of an old an- 
 tagonist, in as forlorn a condition, 
 stationed off St. Just Pool, on the 
 opposite side of the harbour. These 
 two melancholy objects are the Astrcea 
 and V Aur ore frigates, which once, as 
 English and French, were engaged 
 in a deadly conflict, which terminated 
 in the capture of the Frenchman. 
 The hull of the Aurora is worth 
 looking at for the beauty of its 
 lines. The parish of Mylor is 
 known to botanists as affording 
 all of the varieties of the English 
 
404 
 
 Route 26. — Truro to Falmouth , by Penrhyn . Sect. IT. 
 
 heaths. The Church stands near the 
 water, and, originally Norm., was 
 altered in the Perp. period, but re- 
 tains its Norm, character. The N. 
 doorway (Norm.) is peculiar, and 
 deserves notice. The building con- 
 tains a handsome monument with 
 an effigy to one of the Trefusis 
 family, and in the churchyard are 
 2 fine yew-trees, (c) To this inlet 
 succeeds Restronguet Creek , running 
 into the land for 3 m. to Perrcm 
 Wharf \ where it is bordered by the 
 woods of Car clew. Upon the shore 
 is the busy port and rising town of 
 Devoran, from which a railroad has 
 been carried to the mining district 
 of Redruth ; and near Devoran the 
 church of St. Feock (4 m. from Fal- 
 mouth or Truro), interesting for its 
 ancient cross , and as a church in which 
 the Cornish language was long re- 
 tained. Hals, writing about the year 
 1700, says that the Rev. William 
 Jackman, the vicar, had told him 
 that he was obliged to use the Corn- 
 ish language in administering the 
 sacrament, because many of the old 
 people understood no English, (d) 
 Fill Creek , penetrating N.W. about 
 li m., is the next in order, the 
 body of Falmouth Harbour termin- 
 ating a short distance beyond it, at 
 the entrance of the river Fal , or, as it is 
 now commonly called, the Truro River. 
 Here the mansion and nark of Trelissic 
 (Hon. Mrs. Gilbert) bound the vista of 
 promontories and bays which indent 
 the shores of the estuary. The Truro 
 River, winding a serpentine course, 
 and branching into numerous ramifi- 
 cations, affords a variety of pleas- 
 ing scenes. At Tregothnan (the place 
 of the “ twisting brook ”) (Viscount 
 Falmouth) it is joined by the river 
 Fal , which, rising near Hensbarrow. 
 flows by Grampound, and meets the 
 tide a mile below Tregony. Re- 
 turning to Falmouth, along the east- 
 ern side of the harbour, we skirt an 
 unbroken shore, until within lfm. of 
 St. Mawes Castle, where the hills are 
 penetrated by (e) St, Just's Creek . In 
 
 , this there is a secluded bay worth 
 visiting, where the water washes the 
 walls of the churchyard of St. Just {in 
 Roseland). At the mouth of the 
 creek is the station of the Lazaretto, 
 and, in its vicinity, St. Just's Fool , in 
 which vessels perform quarantine. 
 The next inlet, although mentioned 
 the last, is one of some importance, 
 extending about 3 m., almost to the 
 shore of Gerran’s Bay, and constitut- 
 ing, for a distance of £ m. from its 
 mouth, the Harbour of St. Mawes. 
 Upon the N. side of the entrance 
 stands the castle , a fortress of inferior 
 size to Pendennis, but erected about 
 the same time ( 1 542). The town of 
 St. Mawes is inhabited principally by 
 fishermen and pilots, and built along 
 the N. shore. (Near St. Mawes was 
 dredged up, about the year 1823, a 
 remarkable block of tin — now in the 
 Museum of the R. Cornwall Instit. 
 at Truro. It is in the form of an 
 astragalus or “ knuckle bone ” — the 
 shape into which, according to Dio- 
 dorus, the men of the most western 
 part of Cornwall ( Belerium) cast the 
 tin for exportation. This block 
 weighs about 130 lbs., and the shape 
 adapted it for fitting into the bottom 
 of a boat or for carrying on horse- 
 back. Two blocks might be carried 
 easily by one horse. Sir H. James 
 suggests that a boat laden with tin, 
 on its way to the opposite coast, was 
 swamped in Falmouth harbour; and 
 that this discovery is a strong ad- 
 ditional proof that S. Michael’s 
 Mount was the true Ictis. See his 
 “note,” pub. by Stanford , 1863.) 
 This creek is bounded on the S. 
 by St. Anthony's Head , which, with 
 its lighthouse, projects into the sea 
 at the mouth of Falmouth Harbour, 
 and in its vicinity is the small 
 Church of St. Anthony (E. English, 
 with a Norman S. doorway), con- 
 taining a monument by Westmacott 
 to the memory of Adm. Sir Richard 
 Spry. It is a beautiful little struc- 
 ture, the best and most complete 
 example of E, E. in Cornwall, and 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 2 ?. — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 405 
 
 was restored by the late Sir S. T. 
 Spry,. Adjoining it is Place House , 
 occupying the site of the Augus* 
 tinian priory of St. Antony, founded 
 1124, by Warlewast, Bp. of Exeter. 
 Many discoveries of Roman coins 
 have been made on the shores of 
 Falmouth Harbour; the latest “ find ” 
 was one of about 1000, mostly se- 
 cond brass of Diocletian and Con- 
 stantine, which were ploughed up 
 in a field near Penyerrick in 1865. 
 “ They lay not far from the surface, 
 and had apparently been deposited 
 as rouleaux in a box or leather case, 
 which had perished” (6 lent, Mag . 
 May, 1865, p. 199. 
 
 Amoug other objects of interest in 
 the neighbourhood of Falmouth may 
 be specified some rugged masses of 
 granite, covered with numerous rock 
 basins, in Budock Bottom , about 
 1 m. W. : and the 
 
 Swan Pool (1 m. W.), separated 
 from the shore, like the Loe Pool, 
 near Helston, by a bar of sand. 
 Near this sheet of water the geolo- 
 gist may find a mass of porphyry en- 
 closing rhombic crystals of quartz. 
 To those desirous of studying certain 
 grauwacke rocks, called by De la 
 Beche the red and variegated slates , 
 the coast between the Swan Pool and 
 Pendennis Castle will afford a good 
 field for such an object. A raised 
 leach , from 9 to 12 ft. above the pre- 
 sent level of the sea, extends about 
 4 m. between Falmouth and the H el- 
 ford River. Near Pendennis Castle 
 it is associated with rocks which 
 have been worn by the sea, although 
 now elevated beyond its reach. 
 
 The stranger may also visit the 
 Male granite-quarries (see Penryn). 
 
 The botanist will observe the rare 
 plant Vwla hirta, or hairy violet, in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 ROUTE 27. 
 
 TRURO TO PENZANCE, BY REDRUTH 
 
 (PORTREATH, CARNBREA), CAM- 
 BORNE, AND HAYLE (LELANT, 
 
 ludgvan), mount’s BAY, MADRON. 
 
 ( West Cornwall Railway , or Road.) 
 
 The traveller can proceed from 
 Truro to Penzance by the West Corn- 
 wall Railway , a journey of 27£ m., 
 generally accomplished in about lj 
 hr. This line — the last link of the 
 iron road from London — traverses 
 the centre of the great mining-field, 
 passing in a cutting through the 
 busy scenes of Carn-brea, Tin Croft , 
 Stray Park , &c., and under their 
 stages of timber. Beyond Gwinear- 
 road Stat. it crosses, on a viaduct, 
 Penpons Bottom , a pretty scene, with 
 the village 1. and a new ch. rt. It 
 descends to Hayle by an incline, about 
 3 m. long, of 1 in 70, which has 
 superseded the formidable hill on 
 which the trains were raised and 
 lowered by a stationary engine. The 
 old line will be seen on the rt. 
 
 To pursue our course by the 
 road : — 
 
 5 m. from Truro is Chacewater , an 
 increasing village, inhabited princi- 
 pally by miners. The rly., which 
 has a station near this place (about 
 \ m. from the village), here mounts 
 its stilts, striding across the valley on 
 piles of wood. 
 
 2 m. Scorrier Gate {Rly. Stat.). 1. 
 Scorrier House , a seat of George Wil- 
 
m 
 
 Sect. ii. 
 
 Route 27 . — Truro to Penzance. 
 
 liams, Esq. (2 m. from Redruth). 
 The cabinet of minerals formerly 
 here has been removed to Carhayes, 
 • — see Rte. 24). In the grounds are 
 remains of an encampment. Scorrier 
 was the scene of Mr. Williams’s 
 celebrated dream of the murder of 
 Mr. Perceval. Rt. is the old high- 
 way from Bodmin, which here joins 
 the comparatively new road by 
 Truro. 
 
 2 m. Redruth ( Rly . Stat.) ( Inns : 
 Tabbs’ Hotel ; London Inn), where 
 the station is on a hill, and the rly. on 
 a lofty viaduct. This mining town 
 (pop. 1 1,504) is situated in the heart of 
 that famous district comprised by the 
 5 parishes of I llog an. Camborne , St. 
 Agnes , Redruth, and Gwennap . The 
 country around it is dreary enough, 
 bare of vegetation, and strewn with 
 rubbish, but it affords the richest 
 field for mineralogical inquiry that 
 is to be found in any country. Anti- 
 quaries have conjectured that “ Red- 
 ruth ” is to be interpreted as Tre - 
 Druith, the Druid's town. But there 
 can be no doubt that the name ori- 
 ginated in later times, indeed sub- 
 sequently to the division • of the 
 county into parishes, and that, built 
 around a chapel dedicated to St. Uny, 
 the town was named in Cornish Tre - 
 trot , signifying the house on the bed of 
 the river. Copper was for a long 
 period the chief produce of this great 
 mining field : but many of the mines 
 — as Carnbrea, Dolcoath, Tresavean, 
 and W. Basset — are now worked for 
 tin, which underlies the copper. 
 Tresavean, which belongs to Mr. 
 Rogers of Penrose, after producing 
 considerably more than one million 
 pounds worth of copper, was, at the 
 commencement of the present “ sett,” 
 ronounced by experienced miners to 
 e utterly worthless as a copper sett 
 — so completely had the ore of that 
 metal been exhausted. The follow- 
 ing are the principal mines ; — Copper 
 Hill , East Carnbrea, East Huel Basset, 
 Great South Tolgus , North Downs , 
 
 Pedn-an-Drea United, Huel Buller , 
 Carnbrea (Illogan), Huel Basset 
 (Illogan), S. Huel Frances (Illogan), 
 Tincroft (Illogan), W. Basset, (Illo- 
 gan), S. Huel Crofty (Illogan), and 
 Huel Seton (Camborne). (Tresavean 
 mine was the first in Cornwall to 
 work a man engine, to lower and 
 raise the men going and returning 
 from their work.) The ch., a mile 
 distant, under Carn-brea Hill, con- 
 tains a monument by Chantrey, to 
 William Davey, Esq. The town has 
 an Institution for the Promotion of 
 Useful Knowledge, in union with the 
 Society of Arts in London. 
 
 Dolcoath (about 2 m. W., nearer 
 the Camborne stat. than Redruth), long 
 celebrated for its rich copper-ores, 
 (now worked chiefly for tin) is 
 often visited by strangers, as it is so 
 situated on a hill (370 ft. above the 
 sea) that the spectator can obtain a 
 panoramic view of the machinery by 
 which it is worked. The bustle of 
 the scene is truly surprising : steam- 
 engines, horse-whims, and stamping- 
 mills are everywhere in motion ; 
 labourers are employed in separating, 
 dressing, and carrying the ore ; and 
 a stream of water hurries from one 
 busy spot to another, giving an im- 
 petus to huge wheels, and perform- 
 ing other duties on the surface, and 
 then diving underground, where at 
 a depth of 1 50 ft. it again turns an 
 overshot wheel of 50 ft. diam. Dol- 
 coath is upwards of 1400 ft. deep, 
 and in 1815 was considered the first 
 mine in Cornwall. It produced in 
 that year copper-ore which was sold 
 for 66,839/., a larger amount than 
 was returned by any other mine. In 
 1810 it yielded silver to the value of 
 2000/. Cook's Kitchen , formerly a 
 rich copper-mine, now worked for 
 tin, is separated from Dolcoath by 
 a cross-course, which has so heaved 
 the lodes, that many which have 
 been worked with great profit in 
 the former mine cannot be discovered 
 in the latter. 
 
40 ? 
 
 Cornwall. Route 27 . — Gwennap Pit — Portreath. 
 
 The Consolidated and United Mines 
 
 are about 3 m. E. of Redruth, just 
 S. of St. Day, and 1 m. N. of the 
 church-town of Gwennap. They 
 long held the first place in the Cor- 
 nish group, and were worked to 
 great depths; but the copper has 
 been exhausted, and the mines have 
 consequently been abandoned. The 
 church-town of St. Day (locally 
 St. Dye ; nothing is known of 
 the saint) is built upon an emi- 
 nence, and so commands a view of 
 the wonderful region in its vicinity. 
 To the S. are the 2 iron tramroads, 
 which serve as arteries to the mining 
 district ; the one for the conveyance 
 of timber, &c., from Devoran, the 
 other for the transport of the copper- 
 ore to the little harbour of Portreath, 
 where it is shipped for the smelting- 
 houses at Swansea. The parish of 
 Gwennap, over which the eye ranges 
 from this height, is said to have 
 yielded from a given space more 
 mineral wealth than any other spot 
 in the Old World. 
 
 Tresavean (2i m. from Redruth, 
 and rt. of the road to Gwennap) 
 was one of the richest and driest 
 copper-mines in the county ; it is 
 more than the third of a mile (350 
 fath.) in depth, and all the produc- 
 tive levels are excavated in granite. 
 It is now worked for tin. Tre- 
 bowling Hill , S.E. of it, is crowned by 
 a small earthwork. 
 
 Gwennap Pit (about 1 m. from Red- 
 ruth, and 1. of the Falmouth road), 
 an excavation in the hillside of Cam 
 Marth (alt. 757 ft.), is celebrated as the 
 scene of Wesley's preaching to the 
 .miners, and so shaped that the voice 
 of a single speaker can be distinctly 
 heard in it by a very numerous 
 audience. It is called, by way of 
 pre-eminence, The Pit , and is still 
 used by the Wesley ans in the cele- 
 bration of their anniversary on Whit- 
 Monday, when, if the weather should 
 be fine, there are always from 20,000 
 
 to 30,000 persons present. Wesley 
 deserves all honour for the good 
 he effected among the miners and 
 fishermen of Cornwall, who, before 
 his coming, were certainly not re- 
 markable for sobriety or good con- 
 duct. His followers however are now 
 decreasing in their numbers. In 1 844 
 the Wesley ans in Cornwall amounted 
 to 21,642, but in 1854 only to 16,430. 
 
 On the hill opposite Carn Marth is 
 an old entrenchment, occupying about 
 an acre. The church-town of Gwen- 
 nap is 3 m. from Redruth, and inha- 
 bited principally by persons con- 
 nected with the mines. Near it are 
 Pengreep (John M. Williams, Esq.), 
 a delightful seat midway between 
 Redruth and Penryn ; Burncoose (late 
 Mrs. Williams); and Trevince (Beau- 
 champ Tucker, Esq.). The gardens 
 are well worthy of a visit. Here 
 camellias flourish in the open air 
 throughout the year. The tower of 
 Gwennap Ch. stands apart from the 
 rest of the building. 
 
 Carn Menelez or Carnmenellis — i. e. 
 “ stony rocks," from the broken 
 rocks scattered on the surface — (alt. 
 822 ft.), 3 J m. from Redruth, and' 1. 
 of the road to Helston, is the highest 
 hill in the granitic district between 
 Redruth and Stithians. 
 
 The Church of Stithians , 2 m. S.E, 
 of Carnmenellis, has a very elegant 
 Perp. tower, the best in the district. 
 This ch. was given by the Black 
 Prince to the Cistercians of Rewley, 
 near Oxford. 
 
 Planguary , a small village N. of 
 Redruth, deserves notice for its 
 name, which originated in an ancient 
 plan an guare y i. e. plain for play , or 
 round , once in its vicinity, but now 
 destroyed. Many villages and parishes 
 have a spot so called, the old wrest- 
 ling-place, &c., of the neighbourhood. 
 
 Portreath , or Basset’s Cove , is a pic- 
 turesque little place (3j m. N.W.), at 
 which a large proportion of the cop- 
 per-ore is shipped for Swansea, where 
 it is smelted. The cliffs here are huge 
 and sombre, and the valley opening 
 
408 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 27 . — Truro to Penzance. 
 
 to the sea a good specimen of a 
 Cornish bottom , the verdure of its 
 woods agreeably contrasting with the 
 desolation of the country about Red- 
 ruth. The harbour is connected with 
 the mines by a railway, and protected 
 by batteries on the adjacent heights. 
 
 Castle Carn-brea (alt. 740 ft.), a 
 rocky eminence S.W., derives in- 
 terest from its fanciful description by 
 Borlase, the author of the 4 Antiqui- 
 ties of Cornwall/ This antiquary 
 regarded Carn-brea as the principal 
 seat of Druidic worship in the West 
 of England, and beheld in its weather- 
 worn, fantastic rocks, all the monu- 
 ments of that worship. Here he dis- 
 cerned the sacred circle, the stone 
 idol, the pool of lustration, and the 
 seat of judgment; but it is perhaps 
 needless to say that all traces of such 
 remains, if they ever existed, have 
 long since disappeared. The logan 
 stone and rock-basin are, however, 
 found in every granitic country, and 
 are the forms which granite will in- 
 variably assume when exposed for 
 long periods to the abrading influ- 
 ence of the weather. At the E. end of 
 the hill, in the midst of some rocks, is 
 a small castle , occupying the site of 
 one supposed to have been erected by 
 the Britons, and to have originated 
 the name of the neighbouring parish 
 of Illogan ; the Cornish words lug 
 gan signifying the white tower , and 
 lag gun the tower on the downs . (Il- 
 logan, however, may be Llogain , a 
 “ glittering,” from the micaceous 
 glitter of its granite.) The structure 
 is ancient, but has been enlarged of 
 late years, and coated with plaster. 
 It is built upon several masses of 
 granite, which, lying apart, are 
 connected by arches. The rooms 
 are small, the floors uneven from 
 being laid on sloping surfaces, and 
 the walls pierced with small square 
 apertures like those of Tintagel. A 
 short distance to the W. are the re- 
 mains of a circular fortification called 
 the Old Castle , and on the summit of 
 
 the hill a column erected to the 
 memory of the late Lord de Dun- 
 stanville, which commands a very 
 extraordinary view over the mining- 
 field. The country people tell some 
 marvellous tales of Carn-brea ; among 
 others, that a giant of mighty bone 
 lies buried beneath it; and a block 
 of granite, indented into 5 nearly 
 equal parts, is pointed out as the 
 hand of the Goliath, which, pro- 
 truding through the surface, has been 
 converted into stone. This hill is 
 also the fabled scene of a combat 
 between his satanic majesty and a 
 troop of saints, in which Lucifer was 
 tumbled from the heights ; the rocky 
 boulders having been on this occa- 
 sion the “ seated hills,” which were 
 loosened from their foundation and 
 used as missiles. 
 
 Proceeding on our route — 
 
 2£ m. Poole . — Observe a chapel 
 erected at the western end of the vil- 
 lage, by the late Lady Basset, at a cost 
 of 2000/. It is built in the Norman 
 style, of porphyry, with granite 
 quoins. From the road beyond this 
 place the traveller will observe to the. 
 rt. Tehidg, the seat of the Bassets.; 
 The park extends over 700 acres, 
 and is mentioned by Leland as reach- - 
 ing, in his time, to the foot of Carn- 
 brea. The mansion contains somej 
 fine pictures, notably two GamsJI 
 boroughs. There are also portraits by 
 Vandyke, Kneller , Lely, and Reynolds* I 
 The monuments of the family are in 
 the neighbouring ch. of Illogan (2 m. 
 from Redruth). 
 
 There is a small Rly. Slat . at Poole ,1 ] 
 between Redruth and — 
 
 1 m. Camborne {Inti: Tyack’s Hotel 
 Commercial), a thriving town, sur- 
 rounded by mines (Pop. 14,056) 
 The mines of Dolcoath, N. Roskear j 
 S. Frances, may be visited from this I 
 The Church (restored 1862), a large , 
 but very low Perp. structure oj 
 granite, contains a carved pulpit oj 
 wood, and memorials of the family oj 
 Pendarves; one of them a cast-iroi 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 2 7 . — Pendarves -*• Clowance. 
 
 409 
 
 slab, dated 1655. Observe also the 
 capitals of the pillars of the aisle. On 
 the exterior of the ch. is an ancient 
 stone, placed where it now remains 
 by the late Lord de Dunstanville, 
 and bearing the following rather un- 
 grammatical inscription in letters of 
 Saxon character: — “ Leuiut jusit 
 hec altare pro anima sua.” The 
 stone is flat, and probably at one 
 time covered an altar in a neigh- 
 bouring chantry. 
 
 The places worth notice near this 
 town are — 
 
 Pendarves , 1 m. S. (Mrs. Pen- 
 darves), the seat of the late Edward 
 William Wynne Pendarves, who 
 represented this county in Pari, for 
 a period of more than 30 years. 
 Pendarves was entirely his creation. 
 He converted a moor into the park, 
 planted the woods, and built the 
 mansion, which is of granite. On 
 the W. side a charming terrace- 
 walk commands the range of hills in 
 the Land’s-End district. On the S. 
 side the windows look upon a wild 
 moorland hill, called Carwinnen Cam . 
 The rooms contain pictures by Opie 
 and other masters, and a valuable 
 cabinet of minerals, including a 
 nugget of native gold. On open 
 ground within the park is Carwinen 
 ( ' romlecli , or Pendarves Quoit . The 
 table stone rests on 3 supports, and 
 measures 11 ft. 3 in. by y ft. 3 in. 
 It was wantonly thrown down some 
 years since by workmen employed at 
 r lie house ; but has been replaced. On 
 m eminence in the park is a hand- 
 ome Chapel , erected 1842, by sub- 
 scription, to which Mr. Pendarves 
 iberally contributed. It contains an 
 >ld font, and occupies the site of an 
 indent chapel, among the ruins of 
 vhich the workmen discovered an 
 ascribed and curiously sculptured 
 ablet of granite. Adjoining the 
 hapel are a clergyman’s house, 
 chool - house, and schoolmaster’s 
 ouse, erected by Mr. Pendarves, 
 ad constructed, like the chapel, of 
 [Dev. 4' Corn.~\ 
 
 porphyry and granite. The Silver 
 Well , in their vicinity, deserves men- 
 tion for its poetical name. 
 
 Clowance (Clow-nans, the “ grey 
 dingle” — nan is a small valley with 
 water running through it), 3 m. W. 
 of Pendarves is the seat of the family 
 of St. Aubyn, anciently St. Albyn, 
 who were settled in Devonshire and 
 Somersetshire soon after the Con- 
 quest. They acquired Clowance by 
 marriage late in the 14th centy. It 
 is a delightful seclusion, embowered 
 in trees, among which may be ob- 
 served a number of Cornish elms, 
 remarkable for the small size of their 
 leaves. The house, which was re- 
 built in the first half of the present 
 century, contains . some genuine pic- 
 tures, including a fine cattle-piece 
 by Paul Potter ; specimens of P. 
 Wouvermans, Berghem, Ruysdael, Te- 
 niers, Sir Peter Lely, and Wilson; 
 and family portraits by Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds . This collection was made 
 about 100 years ago by an an- 
 cestor of the Rev. H. Molesworth 
 St. Aubyn, the present proprietor. 
 The park is 5 m. in circumference, 
 and the gardens and hothouses richly 
 stored with curious plants. Adjoin- 
 ing Clowance, on the road from Cam- 
 borne, is a village which rejoices in 
 the name of Praze an Beehle — pro- 
 bably a corruption of “ Prase an 
 Tobl,” the thicket or brushwood of 
 the people — i. e. common land. E. 
 is the church-town of Crowan, and 
 about J m. S. of Crowan k rude 
 pile of rocks, which once supported 
 a logan stone, called Men Amber , a 
 name often occurring, and said by 
 Stukeley to signify, in a general 
 sense, an altar. (It . is however 
 most probably “ men ambol,” the 
 “ rounded ” stone, and the stone here 
 is really rounded.) The Men Amber 
 still lies on the spot, but was thrown 
 off its balance by a detachment of 
 Cromwell’s soldiers, who are said 
 to have been sent for that purpose 
 from Pendennis Castle. Crowan 
 T 
 
410 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 27 . — Truro to Penzance * 
 
 Beacon is 850 ft. above the sea, and 
 commands a fine view. 
 
 Hell's Mouth (about 3 m. N.W. of 
 Camborne — a corruption of heyle = 
 a river?), a gloomy gap in the 
 cliffs, which are of considerable alti- 
 tude, and as black as night. A walk 
 along the coast to Portreath (4 m.) is 
 interesting, and the seal is often to be 
 observed basking on the rocky shore. 
 A Cliff Castle may be noticed by Tehidy. 
 
 Proceeding on our route from Cam- 
 borne : — 
 
 Between Godrevy Point and Hayle 
 the coast is desolated with sand, which 
 has overwhelmed a number of houses, 
 and long threatened the eh. and vil- 
 lage of St. Gwithian with a similar 
 fate. The ch. was originally E. E. 
 and cruciform ; it has been partially 
 rebuilt ; there is a cross in the 
 churchyard. [“So lately as 100 
 years ago the house of the barton of 
 Upton, in the parish of St. Gwinear, 
 was overwhelmed, and the family 
 had to escape by the windows. In 
 1808 a drift disclosed the house still 
 standing.” — J. T. Blight.'] The 
 walls of buildings have been fre- 
 quently exposed by the shifting of 
 the hillocks, but the sand is now 
 fixed by the growth of the Arundo 
 arenaria, which was planted with that 
 object. In the year 1828 a very in- 
 teresting discovery was made in the 
 vicinity of St. Gwithian church. A 
 farmer digging into the sand found 
 the remains of a little chapel which 
 had been evidently buried for ages. 
 They were of the rudest construc- 
 tion, and, from the absence of all 
 mouldings, were apparently older 
 than those of the oratory of St. 
 Piran discovered among the towans 
 of Perranzabuloe. There was like- 
 wise a baptistery, and around the 
 building a graveyard, where numerous 
 human skeletons were disinterred. 
 (St. Gwithian was one of the many 
 Irish preachers in Cornwall during 
 the 5th centy. He is said to have 
 been martyred by Tewdor, the chief 
 
 of this district.) The geologist may J 
 find, at the mouth of the Gwithian 
 river, about 2J m. from Hayle, and 
 also on the shore opposite God- 
 revy Island, a recent formation of 
 a peculiar character. He may, at 
 these spots, actually detect Nature 
 at work changing sand into a com- | 
 pact stone, of which several houses 
 in the neighbourhood are constructed. I 
 This fact was first investigated by 
 Dr. Paris, when residing at Penzance 
 (see vol. i. * Trans, of the Hoy. Geol. I 
 Soc. of Cornwall ’). The rocks in the j 
 vicinity of this formation are #ra?n-| 
 stone and clay-slate , which appear to 
 alternate. He can also obtain evidence 
 respecting the up-raising of the shore 
 in an ancient beach near Gwithian, 
 resting on a cliff of grauwacke, from 
 35 to 40 ft. above the present level ol 
 the sea. Another excellent section 
 of a raised beach may be seen near 
 Godrevy Farm. 
 
 ( Trevarnon Rounds , in the par. oil] 
 Gwithian, is an extensive British (? f j 
 earthwork, which seems to have beei 
 occupied during the Civil War. /| 
 cannonball has been found within it. 
 
 (There is a small railway stat. a j 
 Gwinear , and one at Hayle.) 
 
 6 m. Hayle ( Cornish , “ the river 
 (Inns: White Hart Hotel; SteatJ 
 Packet Hotel, on the shore of Phi' . 
 lack Creek). The traveller her * 
 enters the Land's End district , whicl | 
 bounded by an imaginary line draw 
 from Hayle on the N. to Cudda < 
 Point on the S. coast, extends J 
 m. in length, and 5 or 6 in breadtl j 
 Nine-tenths of its surface consist •; J 
 granite. Hayle has no pretensioj 
 as a town. It consists chiefly j 
 mean cottages, a few poor shops, ii J 
 inn, and a shabby rly. viaduct, ai 
 over all whitewash and coal*dn| j 
 seem to struggle for the mastery, 
 is, however, a busy port, and tj i 
 coast in the neighbourhood is m< 
 beautiful. Hayle was formerly cej i 
 brated for its copper-house for smelti i 
 the ore ; but it is now found a cheap! 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 411 
 
 Uoute 27 . — Hayte. 
 
 method to carry the copper to the 
 coal at Swansea, and the speculation 
 has, on that account, been abandoned. 
 The scoria or slag was run into 
 moulds for building purposes as it 
 issued from the furnace. Some of the 
 houses and hedges are partly con- 
 structed of this vitreous material, and, 
 since there are interstices between 
 the stones, it has been facetiously 
 said that in Cornwall the walls are 
 built of glass, and that you may dis- 
 tinctly see through them. The town 
 has since acquired celebrity from Mr. 
 Harvey’s 2 Iron Foundries , in which 
 the largest cylinders are cast, not only 
 for the Cornish mines, but for expor- 
 tation. A few years ago a ponderous 
 work of this description was sent from 
 Hayle to Holland, for the drainage 
 of the Lake of Haarlem, made by 
 Mr. H. Harvey, who is one of the 
 most enterprising men of business 
 in Cornwall, and ranks among the 
 chief makers of steam-engines in the 
 kingdom. The moulds in which the 
 iron is cast are made of sand. Tin 
 is smelted in the works of Williams 
 and Co., adjoining the town. Near 
 the western end of the Hayle via- 
 duct (adjoining the station) is an in- 
 scribed stone 6 feet long, found in 
 1843 in. one of the sides of the moat 
 of a cliff castle at Carnsew. The in- 
 scription runs, “ Ic cen — requievit— 
 cu nat do — hie tumulo jacit — Vixit 
 annos xxxiii.” The 1st and 3rd 
 divisions are not easily interpreted. 
 The stone is Brito-Roman. A grave, 
 filled with a mixture of sand, char- 
 coal, and ashes, was found N. of it. 
 
 Hayle furnishes London with early 
 spring brocoli and other vegetables, 
 which are sent by up per rail, by the 
 con. 
 
 The sea at Hayle forms an estuary, 
 low ing over an immense area, which 
 s dry at low-water, and weak in 
 laces called quicks. There is a bar 
 t the mouth, impassable in certain 
 cates of the tide, but its further ac- 
 umulation is held in check. About 
 0 years ago Phillack Creek was 
 
 converted into a back-water, and this 
 has effected such a considerable re- 
 duction in the sand, that vessels of 
 200 tons can now enter the harbour. 
 The river rises near Crowau, and 
 for 3 m. runs sluggishly on the ocean 
 level. The towans of Phillack in- 
 tercept the view of St. Ives bay, 
 and its island Godrevy , on which a 
 lighthouse was erected 1858 by the 
 Trinity Board. It is to warn the 
 mariner of The Stones , a most dan- 
 gerous reef of sunken rocks, extend- 
 ing from the island a mile or more 
 to sea, and on which hundreds of 
 vessels have been wrecked. The 
 6 Nile/ an iron screw-steamer of 700 
 tons, belonging to the Irish Steam 
 Company, was lost here in thick and 
 tempestuous weather, Dec. 1854. 
 Not a soul was saved, and, doubtless, 
 the vessel, after striking, foundered 
 in the deep water, which is 12 or 14 
 fathoms. The beacon was first lighted 
 March, 1859. Its lantern is 120 ft. 
 above the level of high water, and 
 the light revolves, exhibiting a flash 
 every 10 seconds. It is on the diop- 
 tric principle, and can be seen in fine 
 weather at a distance of 16 m. In 
 1649, on the day on which Charles I. 
 was executed, a vessel bound for 
 France, and having on board the 
 wardrobe and other property of the 
 king, was wrecked on Godrevy Is- 
 land, with a loss of about 60 lives. 
 
 There are several mines in the 
 neighbourhood. Huel Alfred , about 
 la m. S.E., has been remarkable for 
 the large size of its lodes, and has 
 yielded several rare minerals, as sta- 
 lactitic, swimming, and cubic quartz ; 
 carbonate and phosphate of lead ; 
 stalactitic, botryoidal, and investing 
 chalcedony, &c. Huel Herland (about 
 1 m. E. of Huel Alfred) was ori- 
 ginally opened as a silver-mine, and 
 has produced specimens of native, 
 vitreous, and black oxide of silver, 
 and silver-ore, of the value of 8000A 
 The lodes of the Herland Mines are 
 very different from those of Huel 
 Alfred, being small and numerous, 
 T 2 
 
412 
 
 Route 27. — Tr 
 
 but they contain a very rich ore. 
 Huel Herland is close to 
 
 St. Gwinectr , the Church of which is 
 a conspicuous object on the hills. 
 The chancel is good early Dec., and 
 the E. window is of five lights, with 
 intersecting mullions. The splay 
 arch has detached shafts, with heads 
 as capitals. “This window is a 
 valuable example of the period, and 
 of a type seldom met with in Corn- 
 wall” (/. T. Blight). It occurs also 
 at Lesnewth (Rte. 22). Near the vil- 
 lage are the farmhouses of Langon 
 and Bosewai'ne ; the former in olden 
 times the seat of the Lanyons, of 
 whom was Capt. Lanyon, the com- 
 panion of Cook in his voyages round 
 the world; the latter, once the pro- 
 perty of the “ Great Arundells,” of 
 Lanherne, who built the N. aisle of 
 the eh.; and this contains the marble 
 monument of Eliz. Arundell. 
 
 The Church of Phillack , ded. to S. 
 Felicitas — (whose figure with her 
 seven sons, martyrs, a. d. 150, is placed 
 in one of the windows — the ch. has 
 been (1857) rebuilt — save the tower) 
 — is conspicuous to the N. of Hayle, 
 and exemplifies in a very striking 
 manner the encroachment of the 
 sand from the shore, since it is 
 overhung by towans (Cornish for 
 sandhills) which seem to threaten 
 it with destruction. In the church- 
 yard is an inscribed stone which has 
 not been deciphered, and in the wall 
 of the church-porch a small stone 
 with the Christian monogram. Both 
 were found in the walls of the old 
 church, and at the level of the foun- 
 dations of the N. aisle was discovered 
 a white glass bottle containing a 
 dark fluid. This was replaced in the 
 wall in a recess made for it. The 
 old church had some early Norm, 
 work. 
 
 The view of St. Ives and its bay 
 from the mouth of Ilaylc river is 
 exceedingly beautiful. The sandy 
 shore, girded by cliffs, sweeps along 
 the margin of the sea in a crescent of 
 miles and terminates to the W. 
 
 uro to Penzance. Sect. tl. 
 
 at Battery Point, and to the E. at the 
 promontory opposite the island rock 
 of Godrevy. It will probably tempt 
 the stranger to make an excursion to 
 the town. (For St. Ives see Rte. 
 29, Exc. 2.) 
 
 Leaving Hayle for Penzance, the 
 road traverses an embankment 1040 
 ft. long, completed in 1826, at a cost 
 of 7200/. The Hayle river is here 
 expanded to an inlet, which was for- 
 merly impassable at high water, when 
 the traveller had to go round by St. 
 Erth. To the 1. are the mansion 
 and grounds of Carnsew , and on the 
 road leading to the house the tVi- 
 scribed stone , found in 1843, and al- 
 ready noticed. On crossing the em- 
 bankment the traveller will notice 
 the pretty village of 
 
 Lelant on the opposite shore. The 
 fuchsia, hydrangea, and myrtle flour- 
 ish in its cottage gardens the year 
 round. Near the sea the parish is 
 covered with sand, which is continually 
 being blown up the cliff’s from the 
 beach ; and there is a tradition that 
 beneath it lies the castle of Teu- 
 dor, a “ rough and ready ” king of 
 Cornwall, who decapitated many of 
 those Irish saints who crossed the sea 
 to preach the Gospel to the Cornish. 
 In the Church (N. side of nave) is 
 a Norm, arch, the only Norm, relic . 
 in the district. Adjoining it is a fine j 
 sharp-pointed arch of the 13th centy. 1 
 The rest of the ch. is Perp. There ! 
 is a round-headed cross , with a St. j 
 Andrew’s cross in bold relief, in the 
 churchyard ; and outside, near the ( 
 gateway, another cross, small, but 
 perfect. 
 
 The granite pyramid on the top of 
 the hill was erected in 1782, by a Mr. 
 Knill, for his own place of burial. He' 
 died and was buried in London; but 
 left 10 /. a year, part of which was to be 
 given to 10 girls, not above 10 years 
 old, who, every fifth year, on St. 
 James’s day, were to dance near the 
 pyramid (see Rte. 28, St. Ives, Exc 
 2). Trecroben 1 Jill , alt. 550 ft 
 (properly Trc-c rum-ben, the crookew j 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 27 . — St. Erth — Ludgvan — Penzance . 413 
 
 hill), and a most picturesque emi- 
 nence, rises behind Lelant from the 
 woods of Trevethow , a seat of the 
 family of Praed. Trecroben Castle 
 consists of a single wall (with gate- 
 ways) of large stones and earth, en- 
 closing the liill-top. It was, says 
 the local legend, the work of giants, 
 who dragged their victims up the 
 winding road leading to one of the 
 entrances, and killed them on the 
 broad stones within the castle. On 
 this estate are extensive plantations of 
 the pineaster, a tree introduced into 
 Cornwall by the father of the late 
 proprietor, ^.nd found capable of sus- 
 taining the fury of westerly gales. 
 The geologist should know that upon 
 the eastern side of Trecroben Hill 
 there are some good examples of 
 schorl-rock and schorlaceous granite. 
 There is a railway stat . at St. Ives 
 Hoad . 
 
 1 m. St.Erth (pronounced St.Eerth), 
 a village (pop. 2558) once known for 
 its copper-mills , which, abandoned at 
 the same time as the copper-house at 
 Hayle, are now, following the for- 
 tunes of that establishment, used for 
 rolling and hammering iron. St. 
 Erth Bridge is evidently of very 
 great age, and Leland, temp. Henry 
 VIII., says that it was built 200 
 years before his time. Near it stands 
 the Church , which contains good Early 
 Perp. windows, and also a cenotaph 
 in memory of Davies Gilbert, P.R.S., 
 who lived at Tredrea in this parish ; 
 and in the centre of the village, on 
 the hill, an ancient cross rudely sculp- 
 tured with a figure of the Saviour. S., 
 on a pathway to Marazion, are the 
 woods of Trewinnard, now a farmhouse, 
 the property of Heywood Hawkins, 
 Esq., but formerly a residence of Sir 
 Christopher Hawkins, Bart. Much 
 tapestry still remains in this old house, 
 in a high state of preservation ; and 
 at the stables the rickety ruin of 
 a gilded coach of primitive construc- 
 tion, which, it is said, caused no little 
 ferujent among the natives when it 
 
 appeared with its four coal-black 
 steeds at the churchyard gate of St. 
 Erth, as it was the first carriage intro- 
 duced into the county. Railway stat. 
 at Marazion Road, and 
 
 4 m. rt. 'Ludgvan (pop. 3480). — The 
 churchyard commands a charming 
 view, and the ch. is interesting to 
 Cornishmen since in it is buried Dr. 
 Borlase , author of the ‘ Antiquities 
 and Natural History of Cornwall/ 
 and for 52 years rector of this parish. 
 He died in 1772. “ Pope/' says 
 
 Dr. Paris, “ in thanking him for 
 a beautiful Cornish diamond, re- 
 marked that it had been placed in 
 his grotto in a situation where it 
 resembled the donor, i in the shade, 
 but shining/ 99 — Memoir of Dr. Maton. 
 There is a Trans.-Norm. font in the 
 ch. ; and a well here has the property 
 (says tradition) of preserving from the 
 halter all who are baptized with its 
 water. Hence a Ludgvan man has 
 never been hanged. In this parish is 
 situated the estate of Varfell , which 
 the ancestors of Sir H. Davy had long 
 possessed, and upon which he had 
 resided in his earlier days. In 
 the church there are tablets of the 
 family, one of which bears the date 
 of 1635. St. Michael's Mount and its 
 beautiful bay here open to the view 
 (Rte. 29, Exc. 1), and the road soon 
 reaches the Eastern Green , and passing 
 along the shore by the side of the 
 rly. enters 
 
 3 Penzance , a municipal borough 
 containing about 9500inhab. ( Inns : 
 Queen’s Hotel, on the Esplanade, 
 commanding a fine view of Mount’s 
 Bay, the newest and largest ; Mount’s 
 Bay House, also on the Esplanade 
 and new ; Union Hotel ; Western 
 Hotel; Three Tuns.) The traveller 
 will probably make this town head- 
 quarters for some days, as there is 
 much to be seen in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, and all the curiosities 
 of the Land’s End district are within 
 the compass of a ride. (The * Little 
 
414 
 
 Route 27 .— Truro to Penzance . 
 
 Western 5 steamer runs 3 times a 
 week to Stilly from Penzance. The 
 passage takes about 5 hours. For 
 Scilly, see Rte. 29.) Penzance de- 
 rives its name — the Holy Headland — 
 from a chapel dedicated to St. An- 
 thony, which formerly stood on the 
 point adjoining the pier. It was one 
 of the coinage towns from the reign 
 of Charles II. to 1838, when the tin 
 dues were abolished. It is now of 
 considerable commercial importance, 
 and particularly celebrated for early 
 vegetables. In 1858 it exported 
 
 potatoes of the value of 20,000Z. 
 During February, March, and April, 
 many tons ofbrocoli go up to London 
 daily by train. If the brocoli makes 
 Id. a head, it is calculated that the 
 produce of an acre of land is worth 
 £40 a year, and indeed much of the 
 land is actually let at the rent of £35 
 to £40 per ann. Young potatoes and 
 fish are sent also in large quantities. 
 The market of Penzance supplies an 
 extensive district with groceries and 
 butcher’s meat, and with pork, poultry, 
 and fish, which are both abundant and 
 cheap. By the means of numerous 
 steam-vessels it has constant com- 
 munication with Bristol, Plymouth, 
 and London. 
 
 The position of Penzance on the 
 beautiful Mount’s Bay is universally 
 admired. The vegetation in the 
 neighbouring valleys has quite a 
 southern luxuriance. On the higher 
 ground rocky earns and wild furze- 
 crofts contrast with cultivation, and 
 give a charm to the landscape. To 
 the N. are extensive moors, where 
 you may range at will over the 
 hills; and along the shore of the 
 Atlantic is one of the grandest coasts 
 in the kingdom. In 1595 Penzance 
 suffered from the exposure of its 
 situation, when a party of Spaniards, 
 having landed at Mousehole, after 
 destroying that village together with 
 Newlyn, advanced to this town, and 
 meeting with no opposition laid it in 
 ashes. According to Carew, the in- 
 habitants were infatuated by a pre- 
 
 Sect. II. | 
 
 diction in the Cornish language, to 
 the effect that a period would arrive 
 when 
 
 " Strangers would land on the rocks of ! 
 Merlin, 
 
 Who would burn Paul’s church, Penzance, 
 and Newlyn 
 
 and that, when the prophecy had been 
 fulfilled, they found courage to as- 
 semble on the beach and thus inti- 
 mate to the Spaniards that any farther 
 aggression would be resisted. (But 
 they knew that help had been sought j 
 from Plymouth, where Drake and 
 Hawkins then lay with their fleet 
 bound to the West Indies). Accor- 
 dingly the marauders spread their 
 sails to the breeze and left the coast. , i 
 It is said that the four Spanish galleys j i 
 left behind them 22 chests of “ bulls 
 and pardons,” which were burnt in the 
 market place at Plymouth. In 164G 
 Penzance was again a sufferer by the 
 chances of war, when it was sacked by 
 Fairfax. It is distinguished as the 
 birthplace of Lord Exmouth , of Davies 
 Gilbert , and of Sir Humphry Davy , j 
 the eminent philosopher, who has 
 merited the grateful remembrance of 
 his countrymen by his invention of 
 the safety-lamp for coal-mines, and 
 who bequeathed 100Z. to the gram- 
 mar-school of his native town on con- j 
 dition that the boys were allowed an 
 annual holiday on his birthday. The j 
 house in which Davy was born stands 
 a little below the market-place, on 
 the rt. as you enter the town. It 
 has received a new front, but is 
 otherwise the same. The house in 
 which he passed his apprenticeship 
 as an apothecary with Mr. Tonkin 
 (see Dr. Paris’s memoir) was re- 
 moved to make way for the Town 
 Hall. (A tower has been erected as 
 a monument to this great “ illustra- 
 tion ” of Penzance ; archit. Salter 
 and Perrow. It commands the 
 whole range of Mount’s Bay, and 
 may be used as an observatory.) 
 Another “worthy” of Penzance, to 
 be classed with the immortal Dolly 
 — “the last who jabbered Cornish ” 
 
Cornwall. Route 27 . — Penzance: Pier ; Public Buildings. 415 
 
 — was the famous fishwoman Mary 
 Kalynack , who, in 1851, at the age 
 of 84, walked from the Land’s 
 End to London to see the Great 
 Exhibition, and to pay her respects 
 personally to the Lord Mayor and 
 Lady Mayoress. 
 
 The following are the principal 
 buildings, &c. : — 
 
 The Pier. Its northern arm was 
 reconstructed 1745-72, and rests upon 
 a large vein of felspar porphyry, 
 which may be seen at low water. Its 
 eastern arm was an addition in 1845, 
 and a western arm has been com- 
 pleted since 1867. It abuts upon the 
 Railway terminus , and on a Cyclopean 
 granite wall which protects the line 
 from the sea. On the rising ground 
 opposite is a battery , completed 1858. 
 The Battery Rocks to the W. of the 
 pier are of greenstone. These trap- 
 pean rocks in the vicinity of Pen- 
 zance are particularly interesting on 
 account of the contemporaneous man- 
 ner in which they are associated with 
 argillaceous slate. 
 
 The Esplanade is one of the very 
 best in the W. of England, and has 
 a delightful view towards the land 
 as well as towards the sea. At one 
 end of it are the Royal Baths , at the 
 other, the coast-guard station, and a 
 Russian 36-pounder gun from Bomar- 
 sund. Beyond is a large factory 
 in which ornamental articles are 
 made from the serpentine of the 
 Lizard. 
 
 The Corn Market is a modern gra- 
 nite building with Ionic tetrastyle 
 portico. At the corner of Alverton- 
 street and North* street, on the wall 
 of a shop, is the ancient market-cross , 
 which formerly stood detached. 
 
 Below the Corn Market are the fish- 
 stalls. A market has been built for 
 their reception in Princess-street, but, 
 as the fish-women assert a prescrip- 
 tive right to this locality, they re- 
 main here. The business is entirely 
 conducted by women, who were for- 
 
 merly distinguished by a flat beaver 
 hat called the “ Mount’s Bay ” hat. 
 This, however, has been superseded 
 by the bonnet, a person known as 
 “ the Queen ” having been the last to 
 wear the hat. They bring their fish to 
 market in the cowel — a basket univer- 
 sally used here by the women, and in 
 which they carry great weights. It is 
 supported on the back, and by a band 
 passed around the forehead, and in 
 this position bears some resemblance 
 to the cowl of a monk, from which 
 the name is absurdly said to have been 
 derived. Among the curiosities of 
 the market the stranger will remark 
 the conger eel, a fish of formidable 
 appearance — a kind of sea-serpent — 
 which the poorer people cook in their 
 favourite pies, and consider “main 
 good eating/’ 
 
 The Chapel of St. Paul, a modern 
 structure was built in 1835 by the Rev. 
 Henry Batten, at a cost of 5000/. 
 It is wholly of granite, and in the E. 
 Eng. style. It has transepts; a pulpit 
 in one granite block ; and an altar-rail 
 and steps of the same material. The 
 windows are filled with excellent 
 stained glass by Willement, and the 
 organ is disposed of out of sight E. 
 of the S. transept. The altar-rail is 
 a very curious piece of granite-cut- 
 ting from the solid stone. The gate 
 into the sacrarium is also of solid 
 granite. The roof is open and the 
 main beams gilt. The effect of the 
 whole is not successful. 
 
 The Roman Catholic Chapel of St. 
 Mary (Rosevean Row) is of granite, 
 and in the Dec. style. 
 
 The Penzance Public Building , 
 
 erected 1867, at a cost of about 
 £15,000, is of good Italian architec- 
 ture in white granite. In the centre 
 is a great hall, capable of holding 
 1000 people, a News Room and Li- 
 brary. In the E. wing are the 
 Guildhall and Town Council office. 
 The building contains also the Mu- 
 seum of the Penzance Nat. Hist, and 
 
416 
 
 Route 27 . — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Antiquarian Society, and that of the 
 Royal Geological Society of Corn- 
 wall. The first consists chiefly of 
 birds ; but there are also some anti- 
 quities found in the neighbourhood. 
 The Royal Geological Society of Corn - 
 ivall, which now ranks among the 
 most distinguished institutions in 
 the kingdom, was founded in Feb. 
 1814 by the late Dr. Paris, P. R. C. 
 of Physicians, but at that time residing 
 in Penzance. The advantages of 
 such a society in a country like 
 Cornwall had long been apparent, 
 and a perusal of its first volume of 
 Transactions (date 1817) will show 
 by what valuable inventions it at 
 once secured the gratitude and sup- 
 port of the county. It was the means 
 of introducing into the mines a safety 
 tamping-bar, so ingeniously contrived 
 that it could be used with perfect 
 security ; and this instrument imme- ; 
 diately caused a marked diminution in 
 the annual amount of accidents. The 
 Queen is the patron, and Augustus 
 Smith, Esq., of Tresco, the president. 
 The Museum contains a valuable 
 collection of minerals, principally 
 Cornish, consisting of several thou- 
 sand specimens. Observe as unusu- 
 ally fine those of chalcedony, sodalite, 
 haiiyne, petalite, colophronite, vesu- 
 vian, carbonate of lead, specular iron, 
 arseniate of iron, the oxide, carbon- 
 ate, arseniate, and phosphate of 
 copper, native gold from the tin 
 stream- works, arsenical pyrites, ura- 
 nite, uran ochre, and native nickel. 
 Several models and series of speci- 
 mens illustrate the mining operations, 
 and the rocks and veins of the county, 
 including every variety of Cornish 
 granite. Here also may be seen Mr. 
 Peach’s unique collection of Corn- 
 ish fossils, including the mysterious 
 “ ichthyolites ” from Polperro (see 
 Rte. 24); several interesting casts, 
 the bones of a whale taken from 
 the Pentewan stream-works, and a 
 splendid slab of sandstone imprinted 
 with the foot-marks of the chiro- 
 thcrium from Cheshire. In the prin- 
 
 cipal room, in which the meetings 
 of the Society are held, are prints of 
 Sir Humphry Davy and Dr. Paris, 
 and a bust of Sir Charles Lemon. 
 
 Penzance contains another fine col- 
 lection of minerals, made by the late 
 Joseph Carne, Esq., F.R.S., author of 
 many valuable papers in the Trans- 
 actions of the R. Geol. Soc. of Cornw., 
 and now the property of his daughter. 
 
 It has also a Nat. Hist, and Antiq. 
 Soc., established in 1839; an Agric. 
 
 Soc. ; a Cottager’s Garden Soc. ; an 
 Institute and a Lit. Inst.; a Public 
 Library containing about 10,000 
 vols. ; and, in the possession of E. 
 
 H. Rodd, Esq., one of the family of 
 Trebartha Hall, near Launceston, | 
 and an excellent ornithologist, a 
 museum of native birds , probably the 
 most complete and valuable private 
 collection in the county. Lavin y s . 
 Museum , Chapel-street, is the store of 
 an experienced dealer in Cornish 
 minerals. 
 
 On the 23rd and 28th of June a 
 curious custom is observed in this 
 town — the celebration of the eves of 
 St. John and St. Peter . At sunset 
 the people assemble in the streets 
 and kindle a number of tar-barrels, 
 erected on the quay and on other 
 conspicuous places, and aid the illu- 
 mination with blazing torches as long 
 as mopsticks, which they whirl round 
 their heads. Bonfires are also lighted 
 at Mousehole, Newly n, Marazion, 
 and the Mount, and the bay glows 
 with a girdle of flame. Then follows 
 the ancient game of Thread-the-needlc . 
 Lads and lasses join hands, and 
 run furiously through the streets, 
 vociferating, “ An eye — an eye — 
 an eye ! ” “ At length they sud- 
 
 denly stop, and the two last of 
 the string, elevating their clasped 
 hands, form an eye to this enormous 
 needle , through which the thread of 
 populace runs, and thus they continue 
 to repeat the game until weariness 
 dissolves the union.” On the follow- 
 ing day the festivities assume a difV 
 
Cornwall. Route 27 . — Penzance: Mount’s Bay. 417 
 
 ferent character, and idling with 
 music on the water (called “ having 
 a pen'orth of sea ”) succeeds to 
 the riot of the previous evening. 
 With respect to the origin of this 
 curious custom, the summer solstice 
 has been celebrated throughout all 
 ages by the lighting up of fires, and 
 the Penzance festival on the 23rd is 
 doubtless a remnant of sun worship. 
 The same custom is kept up in Nor- 
 way (and in many parts of Germany) 
 on Midsummer’s Eve. 
 
 In the vicinity of Penzance charm- 
 ing walks lead, over the hills in 
 every direction, and surprise the 
 stranger by the suddenness with 
 which they unfold the most delight- 
 ful prospects; the effect of which 
 is considerably heightened by the 
 southern brilliancy and purity of the 
 air, and the varied colouring of the 
 sea, which receives every tint from 
 the clouds that float over it. But 
 before conducting the visitor to the 
 best points of view, we must give a 
 short sketch of the 
 
 Mounts Bay , so famed for its 
 beauty and temperate skies. It 
 is an expanse of sea contained 
 within the headlands of Tol Pedn 
 Penwith (W.) and the Lizard (E.), 
 although the name more commonly 
 attaches to that portion which is in- 
 cluded between Mousehole (W.) 
 and Cuddan Point (E.). It is 
 justly celebrated for a mild and 
 equable climate, and its seasons have 
 been aptly compared to the neap 
 tides, which neither ebb nor flow 
 with energy. Winter is here de- 
 prived of its terrors, and summer 
 is never oppressive ; and for these 
 reasons a residence at Penzance is so 
 often prescribed to persons suffering 
 under pulmonary complaints. Its 
 principal feature is the romantic 
 Mount of St. Michael, but its shores 
 are also highly picturesque, and noted 
 for the marked evidence they afford 
 of the encroachment of the sea. A 
 part of the Western Green — now a 
 
 bare sandy beach — was described in 
 the reign of Charles II. as 36 acres 
 of pasturage ; and at no very distant 
 period the grandfather of the present 
 vicar of Madron received tithe for 
 land which was situated under the 
 cliff at Penzance. The shore called 
 the Eastern Green, between Penzance 
 and Marazion, has been sensibly 
 wasted within the last 50 years, and 
 it is considered that the removal of 
 the sand for manure has been the 
 chief cause of the diminution, the 
 action of the wind and sea upon the 
 flat coast of a bay having in general 
 a contrary effect. Tradition points 
 to a time when dry land extended over 
 that portion of the bay which would 
 be within a line drawn from Cuddan 
 Point to Mousehole, and represents 
 it as having been covered with wood 
 and submerged by the sea at a dis- 
 tant period ; and it is remarkable that 
 beneath the sand of the bay a deposit 
 of black vegetable mould, filled with 
 the detritus of leaves, nuts, and 
 branches, and containing the roots 
 and trunks of large trees, and remains 
 of the red deer, elk, &c., may be traced 
 seaward as far as the ebb will allow. 
 This is, however, of the same date 
 and character as the submerged forests 
 which occur at various points of the 
 Cornish and Devonshire coasts, and 
 which have been found almost en- 
 ringing the island. They belong to 
 the age of the mammoth and masto- 
 don, however near or remote that 
 may be ; and their present position is 
 no doubt due to a subsidence of the 
 land. (See 4 Westward Ho/ Rte. 17, 
 for some remarks on the submerged 
 forest of Bideford Bay ; and Rte. 29, 
 Exc. to St. Michael's Mount, for a 
 farther notice of the Mb's Bay forest.) 
 From the neighbouring hills the 
 views of the bay are most delightful, 
 particularly from Madron, from Rose 
 Hill, and from the field beyond Castle 
 Horneck. The agricultural traveller 
 should be informed that a belt of 1000 
 acres of land in the vicinity of Pen- 
 zance is characterised by a singular 
 
418 
 
 Sect. IT. 
 
 Route 27 . — Truro to Penzance. 
 
 fertility (its annnal rental is 10,000?.), 
 attributed to the decomposition of 
 the greenstone which abounds in the 
 soil. It is celebrated for its early 
 vegetables, such as brocoli and the 
 kidney potato, which are grown for 
 the London markets. 
 
 Mount’s Bay is further interesting 
 as one of the principal stations of 
 the pilchard fishery, affording ac- 
 commodation to a fleet of 150 or 200 
 boats, of which nine-tenths are for 
 drift-net fishing, and average from 
 20 to 22 tons burden. Few spec- 
 tacles are more pleasing than that 
 which is so often presented by this 
 beautiful bay, when its fishing fleet 
 has assembled, equipped and ready 
 for sea, or, with hull and sail illu- 
 mined by a setting sun, is leaving 
 the shore in a liue extending seaward 
 as far as the eye can reach. A 
 Mount’s Bay fishing boat of 15 tons, 
 called “The Mystery,” sailed from 
 Penzance to Sydney a few years 
 since, with a crew of 5 men, calling 
 at the Cape of Good Hope for water 
 and provisions. She was decked 
 over for the voyage. 
 
 With respect to the climate of the 
 Mount’s Bay, the following is a 
 comparison of the mean temperature 
 of the seasons in Penzance and 
 
 London. 
 
 Seasons. 
 
 Penzance. 
 
 London. 
 
 Spring 
 
 .. 49-G6 
 
 48*76 ) 
 
 Summer 
 
 .. 60*50 
 
 62-32 1 
 
 Autumn 
 
 .. 53-83 
 
 51*35 ( 
 
 Winter 
 
 .. 44*66 
 
 39-12 J 
 
 The mean range of daily tempera- 
 ture for the year at Penzance is 6*7°, 
 in London 1 1 . Thus, for equabi- 
 lity and warmth, the climate of 
 western Cornwall is far superior to 
 that of London, and its peculiarity 
 in this respect is strikingly shown by 
 its effect on vegetation. On Jan. 1, 
 that is, in inid-winter, of 1851 , there 
 were no less than 58 plants in full 
 blossom in the gardens and fields 
 around Penzance. Among the gar- 
 den flowers were the geranium, 
 
 heart’s-ease, sweet violet, hollyhock, 
 sweet pea, mignonette, carnation, 
 pink, auricula, anemone, narcissus, 
 primrose, polyanthus, cowslip, stock, 
 gillyflower, lupine, roses of various 
 kinds, verbena, magnolia, fuchsia, 
 and campanula. In the hedges were 
 the dandelion, lesser periwinkle, hawk- 
 weed, herb Robert, dog violet, all-heal, j 
 white nettle, black knapweed, butter- 
 cup, daisy, ox-eye, and red robin. 
 
 Among the hills and valleys around j j 
 Penzance are many charming villas 
 and seats , which bear old Cornish 
 names, and have been long occupied | 
 by Cornish families. The finest for i 
 position and extent of their woods j 
 are Trengwainton (literally “ Strong and | 
 lively ”), on the high land beyond Ma- 
 dron, for many years the seat of j 
 the late Sir Rose Price, Bart., and 
 now occupied by Mrs. Davy ; and 
 Kenegie , above Gulval, purchased by | 
 William Coulson, Esq., the surgeon, j 
 One of the most venerable is Trcreife 
 (pronounced Treeve ), in a valley on i 
 the Land’s End road, completely em- ‘ 
 bowered among lofty elms ; v r here i 
 there are a rookery and avenues. 
 From the lawn there is a view which 
 is perfectly unique. Through an open- j 
 ing in the foliage is seen a single 
 block of Tolcame (at Newdyn) and a | 
 blue patch of sea. Trereife was the 1 
 seat of the late Rev. C. Val. Le 
 Grice, and is now the property of j 
 his son Day Perry Le Grice, Esq. I 
 The house dates from the 17th cent., 
 and is partly covered by a yew T -tree I 
 trained against it. On the opposite 
 side of the road are the Trereife tin 
 smelting works, and on the hill beyond 
 a w'ayside cross , knowui as Trereife I 
 Cross , and the entrance to Trewidden , *j 
 Edward Bolitho, Esq. 
 
 To the N. of Penzance are Trcncere 
 and York House ; further N. Jloscmor- I 
 ran , and beyond Ilea Trevaylor, seat 
 of the Rev. W. Veale. On the road f 
 to Madron is Nanrcalvcnie , J. U. Sco- j 
 bell, Esq. ; and further 1. liosecadgehill, ] 
 an ancient residence of the Borlase 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 27 . — Penzance : Excursions . 
 
 419 
 
 family ; Rose Hill , Louis Vigurs, Esq. ; 
 and Castle Horneck , John Borlase, 
 Esq., the last so named from an 
 ancient entrenchment, Resingy Round , 
 which encircles an adjoining emi- 
 nence. At the foot of Madron Hill 
 is Poltair House : on the slope above 
 the Western Green, Lariggan (Walter 
 Borlase, Esq.); and at Chyandour 
 the villas of the Bolithos, Pendrea 
 and Ponsondine , the latter with a roof 
 of thatch, and a pretty object among 
 the trees. At Pendrea there is a 
 camellia on the lawn, 12 feet high. 
 
 The walks around Penzance are so 
 numerous that we must leave to the 
 visitor the pleasant task of discover- 
 ing and exploring them for himself, 
 or refer him to the excellent local 
 ‘Guide to Penzance/ by J. S. Court- 
 ney. They traverse the country in 
 every direction, converging to the 
 churches of Paul, Sancreed, Madron, 
 and Gulval. We may, however, draw 
 attention to the following points : — 
 
 The valley of Tolcarne , leading from 
 Newlyn to Trereife. A yet prettier 
 walk is the path which ascends to 
 the rocks of Tolcarne, crosses a field 
 to a clump of firs called The Grove , 
 and thence runs to the Trereife and 
 Penzance road. It commands a very 
 beautiful view of Newlyn, Guavas 
 Lake, and the hills which dip to the 
 coast. The entrance to this path is 
 at the mill by the bridge. 
 
 Love Lane , ascending from the 
 Western Green to Alverton , as the 
 cottages W. of Penzance are called. 
 Alverton, or Alwarton, is in fact the 
 name of the manor, and possibly re- 
 tains that of Alward, the recorded 
 lord of the district “ on the day when 
 King Edward was alive and dead.” 
 
 Lescaddock or Lescudjack Castle , re- 
 mains of a circular encampment on 
 the hill above Chyandour, and an 
 excellent position for a view of the 
 town and harbour. A lane, a little 
 E. of the rly. station, leads up to it. 
 
 St. Gulval. The turning at Chyan- 
 dour branches into 3 roads : that on the 
 
 1., a narrow and pretty lane called the 
 Coomb , runs to Treneere House and 
 Hea ; that in the centre also to Hea, 
 and to Zennor, Madron, &c. ; that on 
 the rt. to Gulval. The village is 
 prettily situated in a deep, wooded 
 valley, or dell. The ch. lies to the 
 rt. on high ground ; it has Dec. por- 
 tions, and the tower has figures of 
 the Evangelists at the angles imme- 
 diately under the parapet. There 
 is an ancient cross in the churchyard. 
 To the N. of it are the granite rocks 
 of Gulval Cam , a relic of the primeval 
 moor, now islanded in fields, and 
 overgrown with ivy and briers. It 
 commands a beautiful prospect of 
 Penzance and Mount’s Bay, similar 
 to that from Lescudjack, but more 
 extensive. A path from the ch. to- 
 wards Kenegie runs close to it. 
 From the higher end of Gulval a lane 
 on the 1. leads through the elm-sha- 
 dowed Burlowena Bottom to the Ma- 
 dron road. It passes through a 
 stream, where an inscribed monumental 
 stone which was long used as the 
 footbridge is now fixed upright. 
 The words are (probably) Quenatavus 
 Icdinui filius. 
 
 St. Madron (the parish church- 
 town). On leaving Penzance the road 
 passes at the top of the hill ; rt. an 
 avenue to Treneere , and 1. York House . 
 Then on the rt. the new Cemetery and 
 its chapels ; and 1. in the valley Nan - 
 cealverne. The lane to Nancealverne 
 also forms the approach to Rosecadge- 
 hill , Rose Hill , and Castle Horneck , and 
 ends in a field-path to Madron ch., a 
 pretty walk, with a wayside cross on 
 the ascent of the hill. About \ m. 
 beyond the cemetery a turning on 
 the rt. leads to Hea (pronounced 
 Hay), a village in a fertile valley, 
 which was an uncultivated moor 
 when John Wesley first came into 
 Cornwall, and here preached to the 
 assembled fishermen from a boulder 
 of granite, now covered by the Wesley 
 Rock Chapel. (Wesley’s last open-air 
 sermon was delivered under an ash- 
 
r 
 
 420 Route 27 . — Truro to Penzance . Sect. II. 
 
 tree, still standing, at Winchelsea, 
 Sussex.) From Hea there is a road 
 N. to Ding-Dong tin-mine, and to 
 Zennor by Try Valley, passing Tre - 
 vaylor. Continuing our walk, we 
 ascend the steep hill to Madron (by 
 a path through the adjoining fields), 
 and open a most beautiful view of 
 Mount’s Bay. To the 1. is Poltair. 
 Madron Church , an ancient pile, stands 
 at an elevation of 350 ft. above the 
 sea. The ch., which is of no great 
 interest, contains a square font of 
 Norman character, always covered 
 with a white, fringed, linen napkin, a 
 very old custom in this parish. In the 
 piscina is placed a remarkable frag- 
 ment of sculptured alabaster, repre- 
 senting archangels holding spears 
 and shields. It is perhaps a portion 
 of the reredos. There is a good 
 late Brass for John Clies (1623) 
 and wife, and some very bad mo- 
 dern stained glass, and in the 
 churchyard a mausoleum of the 
 Price family, formerly of Treng- 
 wainton. In the hedge opposite the 
 entrance is an ancient cross, rudely 
 sculptured, which for ages occupied 
 a position in the centre of the village, 
 where the pedestal still remains, by 
 the blacksmith’s shop. About 1 m. 
 to the N. are the ruins of the Bap- 
 tistery of Madron Well , a spring once 
 in great repute for its healing vir- 
 tues, to which cripples resorted, and 
 also love-sick lads and lasses, who 
 dropped pins into the water and 
 watched the bubbles for an omen of 
 good or bad fortune. This little 
 building was reduced to its present 
 condition by Major Ceeley, one of 
 Cromwell’s officers. It has still re- 
 maining the old stone altar — a rough 
 slab of granite with a small square 
 hole in the centre— and above it, on 
 the top of the ruined wall, there is 
 an old thorn-bush, covered with bits 
 of rag fluttering in the wind, tied 
 there as votive offerings. (Many 
 holy wells in Ireland are decorated 
 in a similar manner). Along the 
 inside walls are stone seats. About 
 
 100 yards farther on in the marsh is 
 a small clear well which feeds that I 
 of the baptistery. This is the true I 
 “ wishing well.” About the marsh 
 may be found various cyperus, sphag- 
 num, bog asphodel, bog pimpernel, 
 and Cornish moneywort. The bap- 
 tistery is situated on swampy ground 
 in a secluded spot, but may be found 
 by aid of the following direction. At 
 the top of the town is the Penzance I 
 Union, and a path through the fields, 
 
 1. to Trengwainton, and onward to I 
 a lane and a clump of firs. At 
 these firs turn rt. through a gate into 
 a furze-croft. At the lower end and 
 extreme corner of this croft are the 
 ruins. The roof is gone, but the 4 \ 
 
 walls remain, and at one of the angles 
 is the little well , or basin, which was | 
 filled by the water which still trickles 
 past. The walk may be extended to 
 Lanyon Cromlech (Rte. 29, Exc. 3), 1 
 about 1 m. distant. From the fir- 
 clump a lane (in which lies an ancient I 
 cross overturned) and a path up the j 
 hill will lead you direct to it. It j 
 comes in view at the top of the ascent I 
 (where you regain the road). You 
 see it thrown out against the sky on 
 the slope of a wild moor, which 1 
 rises to a rocky crest called Boswavas I 
 Cam. From the same spot another ! 
 cromlech is in sight — Mulfra Quoit ■]! 
 (Rte. 29, Exc. 3) — which may be 
 clearly discerned on a distant hill to ! 
 the N.E. After a walk to the crom- j 
 lech you may return by the road, 
 along the fir-covered heights of 
 Trengwainton, and visit Trengwainton | 
 Cam, a beautiful point of view, 100 || 
 yds. rt., through a gate which you 
 will pass on descending the hill. 
 
 Castell-an- Dinas (Rte. 29, Exc. 2) 
 (the moorland hili to the N.E.) is in - 
 a position intermediate between the 
 two Channels, and commanding a 
 superb panorama. The summit, 735 
 ft. above the sea, is crowned by an 
 earthwork and ruined tower, occu- 
 pying the site of an ancient hill-castle , 
 
 For longer excursions from Pen- 
 zance see Rte. 29. 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 28 . — Truro to Penzance, 
 
 421 
 
 ROUTE 28. 
 
 TRURO TO PENZANCE, BY HELSTON 
 
 AND MARAZION. THE LIZARD. 
 
 THE COAST FROM HELSTON TO 
 
 PENZANCE. 
 
 For this route, as far as Perran 
 Arworthal and Carclew, see Rte. 26. 
 The tourist may either proceed to 
 Penryn (Rte. 26) and rejoin the 
 Helston road at the 12th milestone 
 from Truro, or he may take the 
 shorter and more direct turnpike, 
 passing rt., 10 m. from Truro, Sti- 
 thians. 
 
 Near the junction of this road 
 with that from Penryn stood rt., 
 until 1869, a celebrated rock called 
 the Tolmen , Maentol , or Holed Stone , a 
 block of granite, shaped like an egg, 
 and raised aloft conspicuously on a 
 barren hill 690 ft. above the sea. It 
 rose toward the centre of a valuable 
 mass of granite, which, had been 
 worked for some time, and there 
 were quarries round and below the 
 Tolmen. Cornish workmen (and 
 some proprietors) are rapidly losing 
 such respect as they ever entertaiued 
 for the natural curiosities and anti- 
 quities of their county. The Tolmen 
 stood on two supporters ; and on 
 March 6th, 1869, one of these sup- 
 porters was blown up for the sake of 
 the granite. The Tolmen was of 
 course shaken, but it did not fall 
 until the 9th, when a large mass of 
 granite gave way, and the main rock 
 
 rolled or slid over it to the bottom 
 of the quarry, where it now lies. It 
 has of course lost its chief interest, 
 and Cornwall has lost one of her 
 wonders ; but the Tolmen is still 
 worth a visit. Its dimensions are, 
 length 33 ft., depth 15 ft., and great- 
 est breadth 19 ft. This enormous 
 block has been regarded by some 
 antiquaries (without the least real 
 ground) as an idol of the Druids, 
 and Borlase attributes its spheroidal 
 figure to their handiwork, referring to 
 the circumstance of its major axis 
 pointing N. and S. as a proof that it 
 was raised to its present position by 
 mechanical means. Borlase, it need 
 hardly now be said, was privileged 
 to see far more deeply into Druidical 
 mysteries than is possible for his 
 successors. At the present day the 
 elements are considered to have 
 been the only agents employed in 
 rounding blocks of granite, although 
 it is not improbable that such im- 
 posing masses as the Tolmen were 
 regarded in remote times with a feel- 
 ing of superstition, as, indeed, they 
 are at present. This rock, which is 
 also called the Cornish Pebble, was -sup- 
 ported by the points of others, so that 
 there was a hole beneath it through 
 which a person could crawl, — and to 
 creep through such orifices on cer- 
 tain days of the year was long re- 
 garded as a specific for rheumatism 
 and similar maladies (see Introd.). 
 Hence the name of Tolmen, or the 
 Holed Stone. “A pebble,” again, is 
 a technical term of the miner, who 
 applies it to any mass of solid rock 
 which may obstruct him when exca- 
 vating such ground as disintegrated 
 granite. The upper surface of the 
 Tolmen is pitted with numerous cir- 
 cular basins formed by the action of 
 the weather. The entire mass was far 
 more striking than that of the Logan 
 Rock (Rte. 29, Exc. 5), which it 
 greatly exceeds in size, the Logan 
 being estimated at 65 tons, the Tol- 
 men 8 or 10 times as many. In the 
 neighbourhood are the Mabe quarries , 
 
Route 28 . — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 422 
 
 and the country for some distance ! 
 round the Tolmen is covered with sur- 
 face-granite and roughened by earns. 
 One of these is likened to the head of a 
 man, surmounted by an old-fashioned 
 wig (a common form, vide “ heads” 
 of Drs. Johnson and Syntax at the 
 Land’s End), and a spring of water 
 gushes from the summit of another. 
 
 3 m. N. of Helston is St. Wendron , 
 where the ch. is mainly Dec. with 
 good E. window. There are Brasses 
 for Warin Penhallinyk, prebendary 
 of Glaseney, 1535, and for a civilian 
 name unknown, c. 1580. 2 m. W. is 
 
 Sitkuly , where the ch. has a hand- 
 some Perp. tower, ornamented with 
 figures of the evangelists. Notice a 
 Cross Brass for Roger Trelby thyanyk 
 (date gone), and a modern Brass for 
 Canon Rogers, of Penrose, 1856. 
 
 18 m. from Truro, Helston . ( Inns : 
 Angel, good; Star. An omnibus 
 runs daily at 10*30 from the Angel 
 Hotel to Lizard Town ; returning 
 from Skewer’s Hotel at 4*15). This 
 old town (pop. 3843) is pleasantly 
 situated on a hill, and above a 
 pretty valley opening to the sea. 
 In Domesday it is called Henlistone , 
 and in other old records Hellas , 
 and the following legend attributes 
 the origin of the name to a block of 
 granite, which for many years lay in 
 the yard of the Angel Inn, but in 
 1783, when the assembly-room was 
 erected, was broken up and used as 
 part of the building materials. This 
 stone, says the legend, was originally 
 placed at the mouth of Hell, from 
 which it was one day carried away 
 by the devil, as he issued forth in 
 a frolicsome mood on an excursion 
 into Cornwall. There he traversed 
 the county, playing with his pebble : 
 but it chanced that St. Michael 
 (the guardian saint of Helston, who 
 figures conspicuously in the town 
 arms) crossed his path; a combat 
 immediately ensued, and the devil, 
 being worsted, dropped the Hell’s 
 Stone in his flight. It is added that 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 ! the inhabitants were spectators, and 
 instituted the 
 
 Furry -day in commemoration of 
 the event. p This is a festival which 
 from time immemorial has been an- 
 nually held in this town on the 
 8th of May, and has been traced by 
 antiquaries to so remote a source as 
 the Roman Floralia. Polwhele, how- 
 ever, derives the name from the 
 Cornish word feur, a fair or holiday , 
 and suggests that it may have been 
 instituted in honour of a victory 
 obtained over the Saxons. This 
 is doubtful. Others suggest its 
 connexion with forrior (Corn.), a 
 thief, from the green spoils brought 
 home from the woods. The day is 
 still celebrated, although not with all 
 the strictness of former times, when 
 any person who could be detected at 
 work was instantly seized, placed 
 astride upon a pole, and then hurried 
 to the river, when, if he did not com- 
 mute his punishment by a fine, he 
 was constrained to leap the stream at 
 a wide place, where he was sure to 
 fall into the water. The morning 
 is ushered in by the merry -pealing 
 bells, and at about 9 o’clock the people 
 assemble at the Grammar-school and 
 demand a prescriptive holiday. After 
 this they collect contributions to 
 defray the expense of the revels, and 
 then proceed into the fields, when 
 they are said to fade into the country 
 ( fade being an old English word for 
 go ). About noon they return, carry- 
 ing flowers and branches, and from 
 this time until dusk dance hand-in- 
 hand through the streets, and in and 
 out of the different houses , preceded by 
 a fiddler playing an ancient air called 
 th efurry-tune. They also occasionally 
 chant in chorus a traditional song, 
 of which the first lines run — 
 
 “ Kobin Hood and Little John they both are 
 gone to fair 0, 
 
 And we will to the merry green wood to see 
 what they do there 0 ; 
 
 And for to chase the buck and doe, with 
 Halan to sing merry 0.” 
 
Cornwall, 
 
 Route 28. — Helston. 
 
 423 
 
 The higher classes of the inhabitants 
 assist in these rites, and in the even- 
 ing repair to the ball-room, where, 
 with the assistance of the neighbour- 
 ing families, they prolong the festi- 
 vities to a late hour of the night. 
 The Furry tune may be regarded as 
 a county air, and is heard at all sea- 
 sons in Penzance and other Cornish 
 towns. It will be found, with the 
 words, in Chappell's 4 National Eng- 
 lish Airs.’ 
 
 Helston is an ancient place, and 
 had formerly a castle which is men- 
 tioned by William of Worcester as a 
 ruin in the reign of Edw. IV. The 
 Bowling-green at the W. end of the 
 principal street is supposed to have 
 been its site. There is nothing worth 
 particular notice in the town, but 
 in general it is the starting-point for 
 an excursion to the Lizard , and the 
 neighbourhood can boast some pretty 
 scenery. 
 
 A favourite walk is to the Loe Pool 
 — i. e. 44 Lake Pool ” — (i m. to the 
 head of the lake, 2 m. to the bar at 
 the lower end), the largest sheet of 
 water in the county. A stream 
 called the Coher (from cobra , an old 
 word signifying serpentine or sinu- 
 ous), rising near Carnmenellis (alt. 
 822 ft.), and flowing by Helston, 
 meanders towards the sea. This 
 stream, being obstructed at the shore 
 by a bar of small pebbles, has spread 
 over the lower part of the valley and 
 formed a lake about 7 m. in circum- 
 ference. During the summer the water 
 gradually filters through the barrier ; 
 but in wet seasons it cannot pass off 
 with a rapidity equal to its influx, and 
 then it frequently rises 10 ft. above 
 its usual level, and accumulates so as 
 to stop the mills which are situated 
 upon the tributary streams. When 
 this occurs the corporation, according 
 to an ancient, custom, present the 
 lord of the manor with a leathern 
 purse, containing three halfpence, 
 and solicit permission to open the 
 bar. This being of course granted, 
 
 the mayor of Helston engages work- 
 men for the purpose, and, a small 
 trench being cut in the sand, the 
 pent-up waters rapidly enlarge it, and 
 ultimately sweep the entire obstruc- 
 tion into the sea. The spectacle is 
 really a fine one. The rush of the 
 emancipated element, the conflux of 
 the waves and the contents of the 
 lake, and the numerous cascades and 
 eddies, often glistening in the beams 
 of the moon, altogether form a scene 
 of singular wildness and beauty, 
 whilst the roar of the troubled water 
 lends its aid to impress the mind of 
 the beholder. The bar thus removed 
 for a time is in a few days thrown 
 up as before. In 1807 the Anson, 
 a 40-gun ship, was wrecked v upon it, 
 with the loss of its gallant com- 
 mander, Capt. Lydiard, and about 
 60 of the crew. As a bank which 
 separates the Lucrine Lake from the 
 sea was supposed to be the work of 
 Hercules, so legendary lore has attri- 
 buted the origin of the Loe Bar to 
 Tregeagle, of whom so many stories 
 are told in the county. This my- 
 thical giant was, however, a veritable 
 person, a steward to Lord Robartes 
 of Lanhydrock during the Parlia- 
 mentary wars, who tyrannised over 
 the poor, and rendered himself so 
 generally unpopular as to acquire a 
 title to the posthumous notoriety 
 which he now enjoys. In relation to 
 the Loe Bar he is reported to have 
 received a certain sum of money 
 from a tenant, and to have died 
 before he had entered it in the re- 
 ceipt - book. His successor, igno- 
 rant of the transaction, applied for 
 the money, and, on the tenant’s re- 
 fusing a second payment, instituted 
 proceedings against him. At the 
 trial, however, the supposed debtor, 
 having contrived to raise the spirit 
 of Tregeagle, brought this singular 
 witness into court, and by its evi- 
 dence established the fact of the 
 previous payment. The proceedings 
 were thus terminated: but a fresh 
 difficulty arose; the ghost remained 
 
424 
 
 Route 28 . — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 behind in the court, and the defendant, 
 being requested to dismiss it, replied, 
 that, since he had been at the trouble 
 of bringing the witness, the task de- 
 volved on those who had driven him 
 to that expedient. To dispose of 
 Tregeagle became now a matter for 
 grave consideration, and it was re- 
 solved that some impracticable task 
 should be given him as an employ- 
 ment. He was accordingly sentenced 
 to remove the sand from a certain 
 cove to another, from which the sea 
 was always sure to return it, and 
 whilst employed in this labour it is 
 said that he accidentally dropped a 
 sackful at the mouth of the river, in 
 consequence of which the bar and 
 the pool were immediately formed 
 (see for further remarks, Dozmare 
 Pool, Rte. 21). The lake (until 
 spoiled by mine-water) was a pretty 
 object, embosomed in trees, and 
 abounded with a peculiar trout and 
 other fresh- water fish. On its shingly 
 banks the botanist may find Corrigiola 
 littoralis , or strapwort , a rare plant. 
 The woods of Penrose (,T. Jope Rogers, 
 Esq.), a seat once belonging to the 
 Penrose family, are the principal or- 
 nament of the Loe Valley, and afford 
 a delightful walk from the bar to 
 Helston. At one spot the park wall 
 returns a remarkable echo, by which, 
 in serene weather, a sound is repeated 
 six or seven times. On the opposite 
 side of the lake is Nansloe House (P. 
 Vyvyan Robinson, Esq., a property 
 held on the tenure of providing a 
 boat and nets for the Duke of Corn- 
 wall whenever he may choose to fish 
 in the Loe Pool. 
 
 The village of St. John s, i m. W. of 
 Helston, is named after a Hospital 
 of St. John which once dignified the 
 locality. Some architectural relics 
 have been discovered on the site. 
 
 S. of the town lies the district of 
 the Lizard, sometimes denominated 
 the Cornish Chersonese. Its old 
 name was M encage (meneg, stony). 
 
 Its length, from the northern boun- 
 dary to the Lizard, is 1 0 m. ; and its 
 greatest breadth does not exceed 10 
 m. There are 12 parish churches 
 in it. It is, says Norden (temp. 
 Eliz.), “ a frutefull and plentifull 
 place for people, corne, fleshe, fishe, 
 tynn, and copper.” At present it is 
 almost wholly agricultural. The 
 district is remarkable for containing 
 a large area of serpentine, a rare 
 and beautiful rock of an eruptive 
 character, which has derived its 
 name from the supposed resem- 
 blance of its streaks and colours to 
 those of a serpent’s skin, and which 
 constitutes, with diallage , half the 
 district under consideration. Ser- 
 pentine contains a large share of 
 magnesia (it is a silicate of magne- 
 sia), and for this reason the soil 
 upon it is poor and ungrateful, but 
 characterised by the growth of the 
 Erica m^raws(Cornishheath), the rarest 
 and most beautiful of the English 
 heaths. The only place in which 
 Erica vagans is known to grow else- 
 where is a small district on the 
 west coast of Portugal ; (the same is 
 the case with Sibthorpia Europcea — 
 Cornish moneywort.) The Lizard 
 district would be comprehended 
 within a line drawn from the mouth 
 of the Helford river E. to the Loe 
 Bar W., and, when viewed from 
 the granite ridge near Constantine, 
 presents the appearance of a bald 
 and dreary table-land elevated a 
 considerable height above the sea. 
 From the neighbourhood of Pen- 
 zance its surface appears so ex- 
 actly horizontal as to resemble an 
 artificial terrace. In a picturesque 
 point of view the interior of the dis- 
 trict possesses little interest, but the 
 coast is both grand and curious. It 
 has been pleasantly described by the 
 Rev. C. A. Johns, in a little work 
 entitled ‘A Week at the Lizard,’ 
 pub. by the Soc. for promoting Christ. 
 Knowl. 1848. 
 
 Lizard Town (Inn : Skewer’s Hotel, 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 28 .- —Lizard Town . 
 
 425 
 
 see j post) is a good centre from whicli 
 to explore the Lizard district. 
 Visitors to Helston commonly con- 
 tent themselves with an excursion in 
 this direction to the Lizard Point , 
 distant by the direct road about 11 
 m., diverging from that road to the 
 far-famed Kinance Gove , which they 
 contrive to reach at low water, and 
 returning home by the Frying-pan 
 at Cadgewith. Those who are able 
 will, however, do well to devote some 
 days to the examination of the coast 
 between Mullion Cove and the Black 
 Head ; but if limited as to time, you 
 should depart from the usual lazy 
 course by walking along the cliffs from 
 Kinance Cove, or, if possible, from 
 Mullion Cove, to the Lizard Lights, 
 and from the Lizard Lights to Cadge- 
 with, sending on your horse or car- 
 riage to await you at that village. 
 If unequal to this, you should at least 
 walk the short distance (2 m.) from 
 Kinance to the Lizard Point by the 
 cliffs. Those who can content them- 
 selves with the common excursion 
 should refer to the heads Finance 
 Gove , Lizard Point , and Cadgewith in 
 the following description. At a dis- 
 tance of about 6 m. from Helston they 
 will enter the area of serpentine, and 
 behold this rock protruding through 
 the turf in sharp ridges. It constitutes 
 the basis of Goonhitty Down , a bare 
 waste {goon, a down ; holler, to hunt) 
 once famous for a breed of small horses. 
 The traveller will observe that the 
 boundary of the serpentine is very 
 clearly defined by the growth of the 
 Erica vagans ; for so essential would 
 a magnesian soil appear for the 
 production of this beautiful plant, 
 that not a single specimen is to be 
 . found beyond the line which defines 
 the limit of the serpentine. (Erica 
 vagans is lilac, flesh-coloured, and 
 white ; its chief distinction is having 
 all the anthers arranged around the 
 bell inside, instead of being clustered 
 in the centre of the flower.) It will 
 be also seen that the cottages are built 
 of serpentine, 
 
 Commencing a survey of the coast 
 at the western termination of that 
 long shingly beach which extends 
 from Porthleven to the fishing village 
 of Gunwalloe , the traveller will pass 
 the precipitous Halzaphron (i. e. West- 
 ern Sea) Cliffs , and reach the Church of 
 Gunwalloe — a lonely and picturesque 
 15th-centy. structure, of no great 
 architectural interest, continually 
 sprinkled with the spray of the sea, 
 and having a detached belfry built 
 on solid rock against a steep ascent 
 W. of the ch. ; the rock forms a por- 
 tion of the W., N., and S. walls. 
 Many shipwrecks have occurred 
 here ; and the ch. is said to have 
 been an offering from a survivor, 
 who vowed he would build it where 
 the sounds of prayer and praise 
 should blend with the voice of the 
 waves from which he had escaped. 
 The ch. is ded. to St. Winwaloe, 
 who lived here as a hermit, and died 
 529, Abbot of Landeveneck in Brit- 
 tany. 
 
 [2 m. inland from Gunwalloe is the 
 Church of St Cury or St. Corantyne, 
 who was, says tradition, consecrated 
 bishop of Cornwall by St. Martin, 
 and converted all the district, died 
 401. The S. doorway is Norm., 
 the ch. itself mainly late Dec. A 
 remarkable hagioscope is formed at 
 the junction of the chancel and tran- 
 sept “by a large chamfer of the 
 angle, supported by a detached 
 shaft and arches to small responds of 
 similar character.” There are simi- 
 lar hagioscopes at Landewednack 
 and St. Mawgan (see post) ; and 
 others occur in Somersetshire and in 
 Bosherston church, Pembrokeshire. 
 Either this ch. or that of Menheniot 
 in East Cornwall (both ded. to St Co- 
 rantyn) was the first in which the 
 Liturgy was read in English. In 
 the churchyard is a monolithic cross, 
 9 ft. high.] 
 
 From Gunwalloe we reach 
 
 l£ m. Poljew , a sandy cove, where 
 the coast a spumes a character of 
 
426 
 
 Route 28 . — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 grandeur. A short distance from 
 Poljew is 
 
 1 m. Bellurian Cove , known to geolo- 
 gists for its conglomerate, which, 
 containing fragments of grauwacke 
 limestone, appears to support the 
 hornblende slate. The descent to it 
 commands a striking view of Mullion 
 Island , which is about a mile in cir- 
 cumf., and bears a whimsical resem- 
 blance to the figure of a huge animal 
 crouching in the sea. The passage 
 between this island and the mainland 
 is called the Gap, The cliffs to the 1. 
 are crowned by the Cathedral , a pin- 
 nacled group of rocks, to which the 
 stranger should climb for a prospect 
 over the Mount’s Bay. He can then 
 descend to that romantic recess 
 
 1 m. Mullion Cove , or Porthmellin, 
 
 which should be visited at low water, 
 as the shore is adorned by picturesque 
 rocks, and a chink in the cliff, 
 a little way to the 1., is accessible 
 from the land when the tide is out, 
 and will admit the adventurous ex- 
 plorer to one of the finest serpentine 
 caverns in the district. “It is a 
 striking object,” says Mr. Johns, 
 “ when seen externally, yet the view 
 from within it is yet more so — im- 
 penetrable gloom above— brilliant 
 light streaming in through the fis- 
 sures, but revealing nothing behind 
 — the smoothest of all possible sands 
 • — little pools of crystal water, so 
 still that not even a sunbeam is seen 
 to dance on them — richly dark rocks, 
 so polished as to reflect the light 
 with a splendour scarcely to be en- 
 dured — the blue sea with its curled 
 edging of snow-white lace, and, in 
 the distance, St. Michael’s Mount, 
 the fabled tower in the bay.” A mile 
 inland of the spot is Pradanack 
 Cross, a time - honoured memorial 
 about 5 ft. high ; and a mile up the 
 valley from the cove the village of 
 Mullion , with its venerable Perp. 
 Church , the tower of which dates from 
 1 500, and has a curious sculpture of 
 the Crucifixion over the W. window. 
 
 The fragments of stained glass were 
 collected and placed in the E. chan- 
 cel window in 1840. The bench- 
 ends are chiefly original, and are 
 the best in their carving in the 
 W. of Cornwall. The figures in 
 front of the altar formed part of 
 the roodscreen. The ch. is ded. 
 to St. Melanus, died 617. Pro- | 
 ceeding again along the brow of 
 the cliffs, the traveller will observe 
 below him the Mullion Gull Rock ' 
 detached from the shore; and then 
 visit in succession the grand pro- 
 montory of Pradanack Head, and : 
 Vellan Point, from which the cliff's 
 sink to a sheltered recess called 
 
 3 m. Gue-graze, but better known by 
 the name of the Soap Rock. This is 
 situated in the ravine leading down 
 to the cove, and consists of serpen- 
 tine traversed by large veins of stea- 
 tite, a dull white substance, which, 
 being unctuous to the touch, has 
 originated the name of Soap Kock. 
 Steatite is pure magnesia, and is the 
 “ French chalk ” used by tailors and 
 bootmakers. It has been employed 
 in the potteries, and largely quarried 
 at this spot, but at the present 
 day its extraction is no longer 
 profitable, as the china-clay of St. 
 Austell and other parts of the county 
 answers the same purpose and is pre- 
 pared at a much less expense. It 
 is soft when first taken from its ma- 
 trix, gradually hardening on expo- 
 sure to the air, but it never loses that 
 peculiar soapy feel by which it is 
 characterised. The botanist may 
 find that rare plant Genista pilosa, or 
 hairy green-weed, in this valley. 
 
 Just S. of Gue-graze is a sheer 
 precipice of 250 ft., pierced at the 
 base by a cavern called Pigeon’s Hugo 
 (pron. ougo. In the Land’s End dis- 
 trict the same word is pron. fugo 
 and fugan. All are the same with 
 Welsh, Ogof, a cave), accessible only 
 from the water and during the finest 
 weather. The Horse , a narrow ridge 
 slanting to the sea, is the next feature 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 28 . — Kinance. 
 
 427 
 
 of interest; and then the bold head- 
 land of the Rill, commanding a 
 superb prospect over the Mount’s 
 Bay and of the clustered rocks of 
 Kinance Cove. On its summit is 
 the Apron-string , a heap of stones 
 which the country people aver were 
 brought to this spot by the Devil. 
 He came hither, they say, with 
 an apron full of stones to build a 
 bridge across the Channel for the 
 convenience of smugglers, and was 
 hurrying with his load to the edge 
 of the cliff, when his apron-string 
 broke, the stones were thrown to the 
 ground, and in despair he abandoned 
 his enterprise. ^ m. from the Rill is 
 the far celebrated 
 
 1 m. Kinance (Ky-nans, i.e. dogs- 
 brook) Cove , one of the “ wonders ” 
 of the Cornish coast. A steep 
 descent leads the traveller to the 
 shore among wild and shaggy rocks, 
 where, in the scene which opens 
 before him, he may find realised some 
 of the glowing fancies of a fairy- 
 land. The rocks appear as if they 
 had been purposely grouped ; and by 
 their dark but varied colours pleas- 
 ingly contrast with the light tints of 
 the sandy beach and azure sea. The 
 predominant colour of the serpentine 
 is an olive green, but this is diver- 
 sified by waving lines of red and 
 purple, while many of the rocks are 
 encrusted by the yellow lichen, or 
 seamed by veins of steatite. The 
 fragments into which the cliffs have 
 been dissevered are pierced by caverns 
 which a re beautifully polished by 
 the waves, and the beach is strewed 
 with gorgeous pebbles. From the 
 centre of the cove rises a natural 
 pillar, but the most prominent object 
 in the scene is a pyramidal rock 
 which, insulated at high-water, is 
 called Asparagus Island , as the habitat 
 of Asparagus officinalis. At a certain 
 state of the tide it exhibits a curious 
 phenomenon. A deep chasm, whim- 
 sically denominated the Devil's Bellows, 
 pierces the island, and from this at 
 
 intervals a column of water is vio- 
 lently projected, its passage through 
 the chasm being indicated by a rum- 
 bling noise like thunder. “ This 
 singular effect is produced by the 
 air, which, disengaged from the 
 waves as they are dashed into the 
 aperture, and confined by the per- 
 petual entrance of the sea, becomes 
 highly compressed, and is driven 
 from chamber to chamber until forced 
 together with a column of water 
 through the opposite opening.” 
 When the water has thus been blown 
 through the bellows the traveller may 
 communicate with the presiding spirit 
 of the place by holding his letter 
 open before an orifice known as the 
 Post-office. But he must not expect that 
 it will be courteously received. The 
 invisible postman — an inward cur- 
 rent of air — will rudely tear it from 
 his hand, and, unless he be prompt 
 and active in his movements, such an 
 answer will be thrown in his teeth 
 as may effectually incapacitate him 
 from further efforts at good fellow- 
 ship. The caverns of the shore are, 
 however, so named, that it is impos- 
 sible to consider the Genius of Ki- 
 nance as an uncivilized savage, for 
 they are respectively called the Par- 
 lour, the Drawing-room, and the Kitchen. 
 Travellers possessed of common acti- 
 vity will find it an easy matter to 
 climb to the top of Asparagus Island, 
 from which, on the seaward side, 
 they may have the pleasure of look- 
 ing down the Devil’s Throat, a hideous 
 rocky chasm filled with froth and 
 foam, and at intervals sending forth 
 a dismal sound as the waves burst 
 into its cavernous recesses. Those 
 who come hither direct from Helston 
 should make an effort to reach the 
 summit of the Rill, and should also, 
 as previously stated, walk from Ki- 
 nance to the lighthouses (2 m.) by 
 the cliff. The geologist may observe 
 among the rocks at Kinance a brown 
 diallage, jade, compact felspar or 
 saussurite, asbestus, and a vein of 
 granite descending the cliff in the 
 
428 
 
 Route 28 . — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 manner of a dike. The botanist will 
 notice on the shore asparagus, carrot, 
 chamomile, eryngo, sea-kale, beet, 
 and fennel ; and on the heights 
 Geranium sanguineum , or blood- red 
 crane’s-bill (local), sea convolvulus, 
 spring and autumn squills, ivy-leaved 
 campanula, and butcher’s broom. 
 To be fully explored the cove should 
 be visited about the time of low 
 water, as the caverns are flooded by 
 the tide. 
 
 Kinance is held in undivided moi- 
 eties by a number of proprietors, and 
 is now of some commercial value, 
 the serpentine being an object of 
 trade. It is manufactured into tables, 
 pillars, and various ornamental ar- 
 ticles, at Penzance and Truro, the 
 stone for the purpose being mostly 
 taken from the beach. 
 
 Proceeding again on our route 
 along the coast, we ascend at once to 
 the Tor Balk , or Tar Box, an excel- 
 lent point of view for Kinance Cove ; 
 and then cross a hollow to the Yellow 
 Cam , a precipice 200 ft. high, 
 separated by the sea from an in- 
 sulated rock called Tunis Yean — i. e. 
 little island. Beyond it we soon 
 reach a remarkable spot known 
 as Holestrow , where the face of 
 the cliff has fallen in ruins, 
 which are based among huge blocks 
 of serpentine and smaller debris, 
 affording excellent specimens of a 
 convenient size for the pocket. To 
 Holestrow succeeds Caerthillian , a 
 ravine chiselled by a stream which 
 flows through it to the sea, and of 
 interest as the point where the mica- 
 slate of the Lizard rises from beneath 
 the serpentine, and further remark- 
 able for its botanical rarities, such as 
 Lotus hispidus, Trifolium bocconi, T. 
 mollinerii, and T. strictum ; the three 
 species of trefoil, according to Mr. 
 Johns, being peculiar to this part of 
 Cornwall and of England. From 
 Caerthillian a walk of some 20 min. 
 will bring the wanderer to the 
 
 Qld Lizard Head } where he "vyill 
 
 rest awhile to admire the view ; 
 and then proceed by Pistol Meadow , 
 containing the graves of a number 
 of persons drowned in the wreck 
 of a transport about a century ago, 
 and so named from the fire-arms 
 which were washed ashore on that 
 melancholy occasion, to the sandy 
 cove and fishing-village of Polpeer, ] 
 Here the cliffs are worn into nume- 
 rous caverns, but there is one about 
 100 yds. W. of the cove which de- 
 serves particular notice, as, being si- 
 tuated at an angle of the coast, and 
 having two entrances, one on each 
 side of the point, two different rock- 
 framed views are commanded from 
 the interior. Mr. Johns describes it 
 as a deep and lofty cavern, apparently 
 lined with the richest purple velvet, 
 and entered through a chink in the 
 sombre cliff. It is perhaps unneces- ' 
 sary to say that it can be reached j 
 from the shore only when the tide is 
 out. From Polpeer the traveller will ' 
 ascend to the lighthouses on the 
 
 2 m. Lizard Point, the Ocrinum of 
 
 Ptolemy, and the most southerly pro- 
 montory of England, and generally 
 the first land made by ships upon 
 entering the Channel. The two large 
 and substantially built lighthouses, 
 the bases of which are 1 86 ft. above 
 the sea, were erected in 1792, by 
 Thomas Fonnereau, Esq., under the 
 direction of the Trinity House, and 
 were worked by coal fires up to the 
 year 1813. These beacons display 
 two lights, to distinguish the Lizard 
 from Scilly, known to mariners by 
 one, and from Guernsey, which 
 exhibits three. Notwithstanding, 
 however, the brilliant illumination 
 which is hence thrown for miles 
 over the sea, ships, embayed in thick • 
 weather between the Lizard and Tol 
 Pedn Penwith, are frequently lost in 
 the vicinity of this headland, and the 
 cliffs are of such a character that 
 it is almost impossible to render 
 from them the slightest assistance. 
 The fields pe&r the point fire based 
 
CoknWAlL. 
 
 Route 28 . — Lizard Poinii 
 
 4 20 
 
 upon hornblende and talco-micaceous 
 slate, and the traveller who has 
 journeyed hither by the road from 
 Helston will be struck by the contrast 
 between the fertility of this patch and 
 the barrenness which has accompanied 
 him over the serpentine. It forcibly 
 illustrates the value of a soil derived 
 from the decomposition of horn- 
 blende. A single acre of this land is 
 commonly rented by the year for 4.L, 
 and, sown with barley, has produced 
 the extraordinary crop of 90 bushels, 
 the average produce in England 
 being 35% bushels. The botanist, at 
 certain seasons, may find in the 
 neighbourhood the rare plants Scilla 
 autumnalis , or autumnal squill, and 
 Herniaria glabra , or rupture-wort. The 
 name Lizard has been variously ex- 
 plained by etymologists : some con- 
 sider that it originated in the shape 
 of the land, as seen from the Channel, 
 or from the variegated colouring of 
 the serpentine cliffs ; others derive 
 it from the Cornish word Liazherd , 
 signifying a projecting headland. 
 Mr. Edwin Norris, no bad authority, 
 makes it identical with the Welsh 
 “llidiart,” a gate. Llydaw , the Welsh 
 name of Armorica, has in the same 
 manner been changed in Cornish to 
 Lezou. 
 
 The point below the lighthouses is 
 prolonged at low water to a columnar 
 rock called the Bumble, which at 
 other times is insulated. On the E. 
 the land slopes to a bay, and in this 
 direction, near the edge of the cliff, 
 is the Lion's Den , a circular chasm 
 which was formed in the month of 
 February, 1847, and has much inter- 
 ested geologists as explaining the 
 origin of similar cavities, such as 
 the Frying-pan at Cadgewith. The 
 strata of this county contain lodes or 
 veins of a material either softer or 
 harder than the rock which encloses 
 them, and it is evident that at this 
 spot the cl iff was traversed by a portion 
 of stone which readily yielded to the 
 assault of the billows, as a cavern, called 
 
 the Daw's Hugo , had been excavated at 
 its base. This softer stone probably 
 cropped out at the surface near the 
 edge of the cliff, where the roof of the 
 cavern at length gave way, and formed 
 this remarkable chasm, which is now 
 entered by the sea through an arch- 
 way at high water, and in rough 
 weather bears, like the Frying-pan 
 at Cadgewith, no fanciful resem- 
 blance to a huge boiling caldron. 
 If the tide will allow it, you should 
 descend to the shore and enter the 
 cavern, for, says Mr. Collins in his 
 ‘ Notes in Cornwall/ “ the effect of 
 the two streams of light pouring into 
 Daw’s Hugo from two opposite di- 
 rections, and falling together k in 
 cross directions on the black rugged 
 walls of the cave, and the beautiful 
 marine ferns growing from them, is 
 supernaturally striking and grand.” 
 
 From the Lizard the visitor is re- 
 commended to walk by the cliffs to 
 Cadgewith, as the road from the vil- 
 lage of Lizard Town is uninteresting. 
 (At Lizard Town, however, Skewes’s 
 Hotel is clean and very comfort- 
 able; and is a good resting-place 
 from which to explore the whole of 
 the Lizard district. An omnibus 
 runs daily between Helston 'and 
 Lizard Town.) The distance is 
 about 3 m. 
 
 Beyond the Lion’s Den he will 
 find the romantic cove and bay of 
 Househole , terminated by Penolver, the 
 grandest headland to the E. of the 
 Lizard ; and then a recess in cliffs 
 which are surmounted by slopes of 
 turf, forming the Amphitheatre of Be- 
 lidden . This is supposed by some anti- 
 quaries to have been used as a temple 
 by the ancient Britons, the Druidical 
 rites being performed on Penolver, 
 in view of the assembled multitude. 
 (Such speculations as these may be 
 noticed, but with the addition that 
 they are utterly without foundation.) 
 E. of Belidden is the Chair , a rock 
 most conveniently placed for the 
 foot-weary pedestrian, as it com- 
 mands a beautiful view of the coast 
 
430 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 28 . — Tr 
 
 towards the Lizard. Beyond the 
 Chair are the Beast , or Bass Point , 
 and the Hot Point , where the coast 
 sweeps to the northward, displaying 
 that fine bay which terminates at the 
 Black Head, and opening to view the 
 distant points of the Dodmen and 
 Rame Head. After passing a cove 
 called Kilkobben , the traveller will 
 reach Parnvose or Lizard Cove , the 
 harbour of the parish. About i m. 
 up the valley is the village of 
 
 Landewednacli , where the last Cornish 
 sermon, according to Borlase, was 
 preached in 1678. It is the most 
 southerly ch. in England. The chan- 
 cel (restored by the present rector) 
 and transept are Dec. The S. porch, 
 unusually for Cornwall, has a groined 
 stone roof. The inner doorway is 
 Norm., complete in itself, with a 
 Perp. doorway constructed within it. 
 The peculiar hagioscope of S. Cury 
 (see ante ) and S. Mawgan (see post) 
 also occurs here. The pulpit (mo- 
 dern) is of serpentine ; and there are 
 tombstones of polished serpentine in 
 the ch.-yard. A part of the ch.- 
 yard, enclosed by a rail, contains the 
 graves of a number of persons who 
 died of the plague in 1645. The sea 
 view from the top of the Perp. tower 
 is very fine. The antiquary may find 
 between the ch. and Lizard Town an 
 old granite cross ; and the botanist, 
 in the vicinity of the village, Alisma 
 ranuncufoides, a local plant. 
 
 Those who are fond of exploring 
 the lonely caverns of a rocky shore 
 should take boat at Parnvose, and 
 thus pursue their journey to Cadge- 
 with, as the Raven's Hugo and Dolor 
 Hugo are situated between these 
 points. The latter is a grand and 
 solemn cavern, with a gorgeous por- 
 tal of serpentine, and in all states of 
 the tide is filled with the sea, which, 
 entering it with hoarse murmurs, 
 disappears in its gloomy recesses. 
 The Balk of Landewednack is the 
 most remarkable cliff between Parn- 
 vose and 
 
 'uro to Pen&ctnce. 
 
 2J Cadgewith , i. e. “the upper field 
 fort” {Inn: Star), a romantic fishing- 
 village in a pretty valley, but prin- 
 cipally known for that singular pit, 
 or amphitheatre, called the Devil's 
 Frying-pan , the area of which is nearly 
 2 acres, and the sides 200 ft. high. 
 At the top of the flood the sea 
 enters it through an arch which 
 opens to the shore, where an ap- 
 parent passage of hornblende slate 
 into serpentine may be seen. Near 
 Cadgewith are the villages of Grade | 
 and Ruan Minor . (St. Ruan is a cor- 
 ruption of St. Rumon, a rather com- 
 mon saint in Cornwall, there being ; 
 SS. Ruan Major and Minor, Polruan 
 near Fowey, and Ruan Langhorne 1 
 in Roseland. His relics were en- 
 shrined at Tavistock. The village 
 of Ruan Minor is pointed out as the 
 place of his oratory, and his well is 
 still shown there). The ch. is very 
 small, Dec., and contains a Trans. - 
 Norm, piscina and font. In the 
 Church of St. Ruan Major (2 m. in- 
 land) are two narrow openings at the 
 junction of the nave and chancel 
 side arcades, and immediately ad- 
 joining the screen piers — the use ■ 
 of which is unknown. A similar : 
 arrangement is found at St. Mullion, I 
 and in one or two other W. Cornish I 
 churches. The tower (date 1400) is 
 “black and white” — built of blocks 
 of serpentine and coarse granite.) I 
 Grade Church contains monuments 
 and Brasses of the Eriseys (1522, &c.), 
 who lived in Erisey House , built in 
 1620, in the form of an It is said 
 that, when one of the Eriseys was 
 dancing at Whitehall, he danced 
 his cap off his head, but with a 
 kick of his foot kicked it on again. 
 King James II., who was present, 
 said, “ Melikes that active gentle- 
 man much, but not the name of 
 Erisey (heresy).” Since that dance 
 the name has been Erisey. ^ m. N.E. 
 of St. Grade Church (rebuilt 1861) 
 is St. Ruan' s Well , an ancient baptis- 
 tery, with an arched granite entrance. 
 h m. E. of Cadgewith the grand 
 
Cornwall. Route 28. — Coverack Cove — St. Keverne. 
 
 431 
 
 rocks of Innis Head may tempt the 
 wanderer to a supplementary stroll. 
 The usual course, however, is to 
 return from Cadgewith direct to 
 Helston ; but those who should be 
 desirous of completing a survey of 
 the Lizard district will find refer- 
 ences below to localities which de- 
 serve attention. 
 
 First, the romantic Valley of Pol - 
 tesco , about 2 m. E., is well worth ex- 
 ploring by all who are fond of wild 
 and rocky scenery. CaUeon Gove is 
 its termination on the shore. Kennack 
 Cove , further E., is a pretty cove with 
 a sandy beach ; and the Black Head, a, 
 bare and gloomy promontory, but 
 remarkable for the beauty of its ser- 
 pentine. This rock beyond Cadge- 
 with assumes a dark green colour, 
 and constitutes the coast round the 
 Black Head to 
 
 Coverack Cove (about 6 m. from 
 Cadgewith), to the geologist a very 
 interesting spot, since the great 
 mass of serpentine is here suc- 
 ceeded by a beautiful rock, which 
 continues along the shore as far as 
 the Manacles , and predominates in 
 the interior through the greater part 
 of the parish of St. Keverne. It 
 appears to have compact felspar for 
 its base, in which are embedded 
 crystals both of diallage and horn- 
 blende. This cove was the scene of 
 the shipwreck of the 4 Dispatch,’ in 
 Jan. 1809, when Major-Gen. Caven- 
 dish, and more than 60 other officers 
 and soldiers, returning from Corunna, 
 perished ; they have a monument in 
 the neighbouring ch. of St. Ke- 
 verne. At Coverack, between the 
 pier and the rivulet, veins of the 
 latter mineral may be seen traversing 
 the serpentine ; and here also you 
 may obtain specimens of striated 
 felspar of a violet colour, and, below 
 high-water mark, pieces of diallage 
 metalloide 6 or 8 inches in length. 
 The village is exceedingly pictu- 
 resque, and in its vicinity is 44 a little 
 mill, the smallest you ever saw, kept 
 
 jogging by a tiny rill.” — C. A. J. On 
 the high ground of Crousa (Cross) 
 Down , N.W., upon which are the 
 large masses of diallage rock called 
 the Brothers of Grugith (i. e. “of the 
 heath”), occurs an isolated patch of 
 quartz gravel, about J m. square, re- 
 specting the date of which geologists 
 have been considerably puzzled. The 
 Manacles are rocks well known and 
 dreaded by all coasters. The name 
 is a corruption of “ Maen eglos,” i. e . 
 church stone. 
 
 About 2 m. N.E. of Crousa Down 
 lies the church-town of St. Keverne . 
 Search for ore has been frequently 
 made* in this parish, but hitherto 
 without success. The country- 
 people have a saying that no metal 
 will run within the sound of St. Ke- 
 verne’ s bells , and account for it by a 
 legend that their patron saint, having 
 been treated with disrespect by the 
 inhabitants, denounced a curse upon 
 the parish. However, a belt of land 
 situated between the church and 
 Coverack Cove possesses such ex- 
 traordinary fertility that it has been 
 called the Garden of Cornwall . Its 
 
 richness is attributed to the decom- 
 position of hornblende, diallage, 'and 
 felspar. Charles Incledon , the singer, 
 was a native of St. Keverne. The 
 Church, which is the largest in the W. 
 of Cornwall, is mainly Perp. (parts 
 of the N. aisle are E. Eng.). Many 
 original bench-ends remain. The 
 oak from which they are made is 
 traditionally said to have been 
 grown on Crousa Down (down 
 of the cross), now a wilderness of 
 rocks. The geologist will find 
 schistose greenstone, cut by veins 
 of diallage, on the shore at For - 
 thoustock ; a bed of serpentine, 
 which has the appearance of having 
 been thrust up violently among the 
 hornblende slates, between Dranna 
 Point and Porthalla , N. of St. Ke- 
 verne ; and a pudding-stone, or con- 
 glomerate, composed of rounded frag- 
 ments of slate, in which veins of 
 
432 Route 28 . — Truro to Pen franc#. 
 
 quartz are visible, near the Dennis 
 Creek , S. of St. Anthony. In the sea 
 off St. Keverne lie those dangerous 
 rocks called the Manacles (see ante), 
 in May, 1855, the scene of the ship- 
 wreck of the emigrant ship ‘John/ 
 with the loss of 191 lives. 
 
 At the Nare Point, 1 m. S.E. of St. 
 Anthony, occurs a grauwacke con- 
 glomerate of peculiar interest, since 
 it encloses fragments of hornblende, 
 but affords no trace of serpentine or 
 diallage, although these rocks occur 
 in mass near the point ; a circum- 
 stance which seems to show that the 
 hornblende is an older formation than 
 the serpentine. The headland is 
 pierced by a remarkable cavern, the 
 roof of which is formed by an ancient 
 beach. 
 
 St . Anthony in Meneage (i. e. stony 
 district), stands on a neck of land be- 
 tween the Ilelford river and the 
 Durra, an exceedingly pretty spot. 
 The Church of St. Anthony is situ- 
 ated on the shore at the base 
 of a promontory called Dinas, and 
 at high water is but little elevated 
 above the surface of the sea. It 
 originated, according to a legend, 
 in the following manner : some per- 
 sons of rank sailing from Normandy 
 to England were overtaken by a 
 storm, when they made a vow to 
 St. Anthony to build him a church 
 if he would guide the ship into a 
 place of safety. The saint acceded 
 to their supplication and conducted 
 the vessel into Gillan Harbour, 
 and the passengers, mindful of their 
 promise, erected the church upon 
 the spot where they landed. The 
 small size of this parish favours the 
 idea that it was severed from Ma- 
 naccan on some occasion of this 
 kind. The chancel may be E. E., 
 but the rest is Early Perp. ; the font, 
 which is ornamented with angels 
 bearing shields, is as old as the 
 chancel. Great and Little Dinas are 
 two ancient entrenchments com- 
 manding the entrance of the river, 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 and were occupied as military posts 
 during the civil war of Charles. 
 The latter was taken by Fairfax in 
 1646, but is now a rabbit warren. 
 The Helford River, about 1 m. wide 
 at the mouth, branches into pictu- 
 resque creeks, which penetrate the 
 country in various directions. It is 
 said by Carew to have been in former 
 days much frequented by pirates, 
 
 “ whose guilty breasts/' he adds, 
 
 “ with an eye in their backs, look 
 warily how they may go out again." 
 On its shore, by Manaccan, is Rosa- 
 han House, T. Grylls, Esq. 
 
 Manaccan, i.e . u tlie Monks," 1J m. 
 S.W. has become celebrated by the 
 discovery of titanium in its vicinity. 
 The mineral which contained this 
 metal was found in the stream of Tre- 
 gonwell Mill, and was a titaniferous 
 iron, which has been since called Ma- ; 
 nacchanite, or Gregorite after the 
 name of its discoverer, the late Kev. 
 William Gregor. Manaccan Church is 
 E. Eng. (chancel and transept — the 
 chancel roof is perhaps original, and / 
 should be noticed). The S. doorway 
 is E. Norm,, and one of the best 
 examples in Cornwall. Out of the S 
 S. wall of the nave grows a large fig- * 
 tree — the diameter of the trunk being c 
 about 10 inches. Manaccan is also 'I 
 known in Cornwall as having been fl 
 the residence of the Rev. R. Polwhele, ■ 
 author of a history of the county, n\ 
 who for several years was rector of j 
 this and the adjoining parish of St. ■ 
 Anthony. Tremayne, an old house in j 
 the parish of St. Martin, once be- 
 longed to Captain Wallis, who dis- 1 
 covered Otaheite, and was born near p 
 Camelford. From this old seat the 
 family of Tremayne of Heligan took \ 
 their name. (Tremayne means “ the j 
 town place," or “ dwelling near the ■ 
 stone,” i. e. some remarkable stone.) & 
 It is now the property of Sir K. K. 
 Vyvyan. 
 
 St. Mavcgan in Meneage, 3 m. N.W., m 
 where there is a stone cross, some f 
 
433 
 
 Cornwall. Route . 28 . — -St Mawgan in Meneage. 
 
 1500 years old, with the inscription 
 Cnegumi fil. Enans. Trelowarren , the 
 seat of Sir R. R. Vyvyan, Bart., lies 
 to the S. of this village. The house, 
 a castellated building of the same 
 date as many others in the county 
 (circ. 1620-40), contains pictures by 
 Vandyke and Kneller , and was pro- 
 bably erected early in the 17th 
 centy. One of the pictures by Van- 
 dyke is a portrait of Charles I., 
 which was presented to the Vyvyans 
 by Charles II. as a mark of grati- 
 tude for their services during the 
 civil war. A chapel is attached to 
 the mansion. Here the antiquary 
 should examine some very remark- 
 able subterranean chambers , at a spot 
 called Halligey , 5 or 6 minutes’ walk 
 from the house of Trelowarren. The 
 soil rises over them as if banked up, 
 but not so much so as with a barrow. 
 The remains, all beneath the ground, 
 consist of a long, slightly winding 
 passage, opening at one end to 
 another and shorter passage (or set 
 of chambers) at right angles to it. 
 The present entrance, in the side of 
 the longer passage, is modern. The 
 sides of this long, dark, cave are 
 of rough blocks of unhewn stone, 
 without cement, or regularity in 
 courses, having their crevices filled 
 in with smaller stones. The walls 
 bend inward till they meet the 
 roof, formed of large blocks of stone 
 thrown horizontally across. The 
 passage, or' gallery, runs E. and 
 W., and is 90 ft. long, varying in 
 breadth from 3 to 5 ft. The height 
 is not uniform. In the middle it 
 is 6 ft., but becomes lower at the 
 ends. At one end a doorway, 1 ft. 
 4 in. high by 1 ft. 4 in. wide, with 
 jambs and lintel each formed of a 
 single stone, leads into a chamber 
 6 ft. long, — lower than the main 
 gallery, but roofed in a similar 
 manner. At the opposite end is the 
 shorter gallery, running N. and S., 
 28 ft. long, 5 ft. 6 in. broad, and 6 ft. 
 high. The entrance is of large 
 stones placed somewhat regularly. 
 
 [Dev. ty Corn.'] 
 
 The arms of this gallery are sub- 
 divided by rude portals into smaller 
 chambers ; and at the N. end was 
 the original entrance to the whole 
 structure, now blocked by a modern 
 hedge. The whole stood within a 
 fort ; for E. and S.E. of the mound 
 two earthen embankments — circular, 
 with intervening ditch — may still 
 be traced. No stones were used 
 herer but about 150 yds. S.W. of it 
 is an ancient well, rudely built round 
 somewhat after the fashion of the 
 cave.. These are the most important 
 subterranean galleries which have 
 as yet be$n discovered in Cornwall. 
 (There are others at Treworfe, near 
 Bolleit, and at Pendeen, both in the 
 Land’s End district, see Rte. 29, and 
 elsewhere in the county.) All the 
 principal galleries are high enough 
 for a man to stand upright, but the 
 doorways are always low ; the curved 
 gallery and the low doors seem in- 
 tended to make the whole structure 
 intricate and defensible. Similar 
 galleries are found in Irish raths and 
 in Scotland. There also they are 
 always connected with entrench- 
 ments. At a place called Gear 
 or Caer, J m. N. of Trelowarren, 
 you may find a circular camp of 
 about 14 acres, which commands 
 the river, and is in a line with 2 
 smaller entrenchments. From the 
 downs in the neighbourhood of 
 Mawgan a fine view may be obtained 
 over the adjacent districts. Mawgan is 
 4 m. S.E. from Helston. In the Church 
 (Dec. chancel and transept, the rest 
 later) is a hagioscope of the same 
 character as those at Landewednack 
 and St. Cury, but differing in detail. 
 The Perp. tow^er, battlemented and 
 pinnacled, and much enriched with 
 shields, is the finest in this part of the 
 country. In the S. transept are some 
 ancient effigies of the Carminowes 
 (temp. Edw. I. ?), who claimed descent 
 from K. Arthur, and were formerly 
 seated on the banks of the Loe Pool. 
 (The family of Carminowe was pro- 
 bably at one time the most import- 
 u 
 
434 
 
 Route 28 . — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 ant in the county. All Boconnoc, 
 Lanhydrock, and Glynn in the eastern 
 division, and Tregothnan and Loe 
 Pool in the west, belonged to them. 
 A portion of their house at Lanhy- 
 drock, called “ Col-madoc, ,, now a 
 cottage, still remains ; and their 
 name is kept there by a cross-road, 
 yet called Carminowe Cross.) In 
 the N. aisle is a monument to Sir 
 Richard Vyvyan (1696), and the 
 sword which lie loyally wielded in 
 the Rebellion. The encampment of 
 Gear has its legend of that period. 
 A Mr. Bogans, of St. Keverne, hav- 
 ing posted himself on the spot in 
 military array, was deserted by his 
 men when the enemy approached, 
 and forced to fly in hot haste to the 
 coast for concealment. His adven- 
 ture is remembered to this day as 
 The Gear Rout. 
 
 Proceeding on our route from 
 Helston towards Marazion — 
 
 1 J A road on the 1. leads to Porth- 
 leven , a small seaport situated in the 
 centre of the Mount’s Bay, and about 
 1 J m. W. of the Loe Bar. The har- 
 bour has been constructed at a 
 great expense, and, from its po- 
 sition on a wild dangerous coast, 
 would be of extreme value if more 
 easy of access. In tempestuous wea- 
 ther, however, when such a refuge 
 is required, it is scarcely possible to 
 enter it, since the mouth is narrow, 
 and the sea sets into it with extreme 
 violence. The geologist will find 
 much to interest him in the rugged 
 shore of this neighbourhood, espe- 
 cially some fine sections of trap dikes 
 cutting the slate. At 
 
 Trewavas Head , W. of Porthleven 
 (Trewavas, i. e. “ dwelling of the 
 mole,” “shaped like a mole-hill”), 
 granite, extending from Tregonning 
 and Godolphin Hill, abuts upon the 
 sea in magnificent cliffs. On this 
 imposing headland are the remains of 
 a forsaken mine, formerly worked 
 under the sea; a columnar pile of 
 
 granite called the Bishop Rock; and 
 a raised beach, associated with rocks 
 worn smooth by the waves, though 
 now far above their reach. 
 
 I m. St. Breage (pronounced Bra- 
 gue), said to have been founded by 
 St. Breaca, an Irish saint. 1^ m. 
 N.E. of it is the tin-mine of Huel\ 
 Vor (i. e. great work), at one time 
 considered the richest tin-mine in < 
 the county. Lodes have been here l ii 
 found of the unusual width of 30 ft J H 
 and so rich withal as to reward the I 
 adventurers with a clear profit ol 
 
 10,000/. in 3 months. The old work- v$ 
 
 ings extend for more than a mile and 
 a quarter under-ground. The Church 
 is interesting as containing the re- 1 
 mains of Mrs. Godolphin , the “ dearest* 
 friend” of John Evelyn, who has 1 
 “consecrated her worthy life to pos-i 
 terity.” (Evelyn’s ‘Life of Mrs., 
 Godolphin’ has been edited by 
 Dr. Wilberforce, Bp. of Winchester. 
 Notice in the ch. some old helmets 
 with the dolphin crest of the Godol- 
 phins. In this neighbourhood, on N. 
 uninsulated mass of granite, separatee 
 by a channel of slate from the graniti- 
 district of Wendron and Crowan, con 
 stitutes the striking eminences of 
 Tregonning (properly Tregonan 
 Hill (596 feet) and Godolphin Hill 
 (495 feet), which rise from bases de 
 solated by the miner. The forme:, 
 (properly Tre- Conan = Conan’s dwell 
 mg) is crowned by the earth- work 
 of a hill-castle — the inner vallum k 
 15 ft. high, was faced externally with 
 rude rubble masoury — and shelter 
 from westerly gales the old man 
 sion of Godolphin , which is situate* 
 below it on the eastern side. This i 
 a quadrangular building of granite, 
 studded with windows, and fronted 
 by a handsome portico. It former!' 
 belonged to the family of Godolphir 
 which became extinct in 1785, andi 
 now the property of the Duke c 
 Leeds and occupied as a farmhous< 
 
 It is a venerable object, grey wit 
 age, but is closely beset by minin 
 works. The curious mode of clain 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 435 
 
 Route 28 . — P eng er sick Castle . 
 
 ing a reserved rent for the lords of 
 the manor of Lamburne, mentioned 
 by Hals and Davies Gilbert, is still 
 observed here on Candlemas Day. 
 The minister of Queen Anne, 
 connected by marriage with the 
 great Duke of Marlborough, was 
 the most eminent of the Godolphin 
 family. Part of this hill is worked 
 for china-clay, which is shipped at 
 St. Michael’s Mount and Porthleven. 
 These quarries were the first to be 
 opened in this country, and they 
 supplied the clay with which the 
 earliest Plymouth china was made. 
 The northern side of Tregonning 
 has been lately brought under the 
 plough. Godolphin Hill is the site 
 of Huel For, or the Great Work tin- 
 mine. Various etymologies have been 
 proposed for the name of Godolphin : 
 “Godawth,” half-melted, dissolved, 
 in allusion to the soft granite or 
 kaolin, and “ goon,” a down ; or 
 “Godawth” and “gwyp,” white; 
 or “ Coed,” woods, and “ alcan,” 
 tin. Neither of these seems entirely 
 satisfactory. 
 
 2 m. rt. is the village of Germoe 
 (pop. 1015), founded, according to 
 tradition, by Germoch, a king of 
 Ireland, who is said to have landed 
 at Hayle in the year 460. The Church 
 is Dec., originally cruciform, but a 
 Perp. N. aisle has taken the place of 
 the transept. Notice the gable cross 
 of the porch and the grotesque cor- 
 bels. Notice also on the N. side of the 
 churchyard a singular structure, po- 
 pularly known as St. Germoe’ s Chair , 
 and said to have been built by the 
 Millitons of Pengersick. It is a stone 
 seat, placed in a recess, which is or- 
 namented with pointed arches, pil- 
 lars, and the rude sculpture of a hu- 
 man head. About 1 m. 1. of the road, 
 in a bottom near the coast, stands 
 
 Pengersick Castle , consisting of two 
 towers (temp. Hen. VIII.), which 
 were once united to a castellated 
 edifice. The larger is built in three 
 stories, and the other contains a 
 
 winding flight of stairs which lead 
 to the summit of the tower. The 
 walls, which are loopholed, are lined 
 with a wainscoting, decorated with 
 carving, and inscribed with several 
 quaint pieces of poetry, illustrated 
 by paintings, much defaced, and now 
 hardly intelligible. On one of the 
 panels, under a rude representation 
 of water dropping from a rock, with 
 the title “ Perseverance,” is or was 
 the following poetical effusion 
 
 “ What thing is harder than the rock ? 
 
 What softer is than water cleere ? 
 
 Yet wyjl the same with often droppe 
 The hard rock perce, as doth a spere ; 
 Even so, nothing so hard to attayne, 
 
 But may be hadd with labour and payne.” 
 
 A paraphrase of the well-known 
 lines of Ovid, — 
 
 “Quid magis est saxo durum, quid mollius 
 unda ? 
 
 Dura tamen molli saxa cavantur aqua." 
 
 The following lines illustrate 
 another picture, representing a blind 
 man carrying a lame man on his back : 
 
 “ The one nedith the other ys helpe. 
 
 The lame, wyche lacketh for to goo. 
 
 Is borne upon the blinde ys back, 
 
 So mutually, between them twoo, 
 
 The one supplieth the other’s lack ; ' 
 
 The blinde to laime doth lend ys might, 
 
 The laime to blinde doth yeld his sight." 
 
 Pengersick, or Pen-giver as-ike, sig- 
 nifies the head ward of the cove. Ac- 
 cording to tradition it was built in 
 the reign of Henry VIII., by a mer- 
 chant, who, as the story goes, acquired 
 so large a fortune at sea, that, when 
 he loaded an ass with his gold, the 
 weight of it broke the poor animal's 
 back. At the latter end of this 
 monarch’s reign it is said to have 
 been purchased by a Mr. Milliton, 
 who, having slain a man privately, 
 immured himself in this castle to 
 escape the consequences of his crime. 
 The botanist may find Silene Anglica, 
 or English catch-fly, in the neigh- 
 bouring corn-fields. 
 
 At Sidney Cove, below the castle, a 
 mine has been opened, on which 
 has been bestowed the good historic 
 U 2 
 
Route 29 . — Truro to Penzance . 
 
 Sect. IT. 
 
 43 G 
 
 name of Sidney Godolphin. Further 
 W., between Pengersick and Cuddan 
 Point, is 
 
 Prussia Corf, so named from a 
 smuggler, who here constructed and 
 mounted in the cliff a formidable bat- 
 tery ; but, to disguise and favour his 
 real occupation, acted as landlord at 
 an adjoining public-house, called the 
 King of Prussia. At length Carter, 
 for such was his name, came to 
 blows with the authorities, and, un- 
 masking his guns, fired into the Fairy 
 sloop of war, which thereupon sent 
 its l>oats against the battery, and de- 
 stroyed it. In the time of Carter, 
 about 1780, the smuggler was re- 
 garded almost in the light of a mer- 
 chant, and such was the latitude 
 allowed him by law, that no goods 
 could be seized above high-water 
 mark. Immediately W. of this bay 
 is the romantic recess called Bessie $ 
 Cote. 
 
 400 yds. beyond Pengersick lane 
 end, in a field called Trcmenkc - 
 rerne , 1 . of the road, lie several 
 large blocks of an iron gritstone 
 known by the same name, and con- 
 nected with the following legend. 
 In the olden time, when saints were 
 rife in Cornwall, St. Just of the 
 land’s End paid a visit to St- 
 Keveme, who, residing near the 
 Lizard, entertained him hospitably 
 for several days. After St. Just’s 
 departure, however. St. Keverne 
 missed sundry pieces of plate, and, 
 suspecting the honesty of his late 
 guest, hastened after him to ascertain 
 the correctness of his surmises. 
 Upon passing over C'rousa Down 
 the idea of resistance flashed across 
 his mind, and he forthwith pocketed 
 three large stones, each weighing 
 about a quarter of a ton, and thus 
 armed continued the pursuit. He 
 overtook his saintly brother at a 
 short distance from Hreage, and 
 immediately charged him with the 
 robbery. >t. Jut Mgw •! great 
 astonishment at so serious an accusa- 
 tion, high words ensued, and fmm 
 
 words the disputants soon came to 
 blows. St. Keverne, however, so 
 plied his pocket ammunition, that 
 the affray was shortly terminated by 
 the flight of St. Just, who, making 
 the most of his heels, disburdened 
 himself as he ran of the missing arti- 
 cles. The fight l>eing thus satisfac- 
 torily concluded, St. Keverne had 
 no further need of his cumbersome 
 weapons, and accordingly left them 
 on the ground, where they remain to 
 this day, unquestionable monuments 
 of saintly prowess. It is a curious 
 circumstance that the sienitic rock, 
 of which the boulders are composed, 
 and which is called iron-stone from 
 its excessive hardness, is foreigu to 
 this district, whilst blocks of it are 
 scattered over Crousa Down in the 
 greatest abundance. Possibly these 
 boulders were ice-borne from the 
 North. 
 
 At Cuddan (i. e. dark, gloomy) 
 Point the geologist will find trappean 
 rocks associated with argillaceous 
 slate in a manner that would lead 
 the ‘observer to assign them a con- 
 temporaneous origin. The dark 
 headland bears some resemblance to 
 the promontory of the Start. 
 
 E. of Cuddan Point, a short £ m., 
 is Bessie’s Cove, a rocky recess, and 
 home of fishermen — a very romantic 
 spot. A fisherman’s cottage stands 
 above the precipice, and below arc 
 caverns, over which hang branches 
 of the tamarisk. The largest cave 
 has lately been filled up, since it 
 threatened to undermine the cottage. 
 Through it the fishermen used to 
 draw up their gear from the shore 
 and by its means in the winter they 
 procured a number of starlings and 
 other birds, which had sheltered in 
 it to hybernate. When the mouth 
 of the cavern was closed by seaweed 
 they stretched a net over the aper- 
 ture above, and thus entrapped the 
 birds, as many as 5<M) of which have 
 thus lieen taken at once. 
 
 Arton Castle is situated upon the 
 cliffs W. of Cuddan Point. The lo- 
 
437 
 
 Cornwall. Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance. 
 
 cality is wild and unsheltered, and 
 the castle commands a prospect of 
 extraordinary beauty. It was erected 
 as a marine residence by the late John 
 Stackhouse, Esq., and was for some 
 years occupied by the late Admiral 
 Praed. 
 
 Rt. a lane to Goldsithney , a village 
 (on the Camborne and Marazion 
 road) distinguished for its annual 
 fair on Aug. 5, and for a beautiful 
 view of the Mount and Mount’s Bay, 
 which first greet the traveller from 
 the Goldsithney hills; 1. a lane to 
 St. Perran-uthnoe (i. e. Perran the ele- 
 vated or “highest”), on the coast 
 between Cuddan Point and Mara- 
 zion. The Church is mainly Perp. 
 (the chancel rebuilt, 1861), and has 
 some curious sculptured heads as the 
 terminations of the hood mould of the 
 S. door. The square granite font is 
 of early date. Near it is a rocky 
 recess in which a Cornish legend 
 lands an ancestor of the Trevelyans, 
 who, according to the story, was 
 swept into the sea with the fabled 
 Lyonesse and its 140 churches, and 
 was borne to this cove by the marvel- 
 lous swimming of his horse. 
 
 After passing Perran-uthnoe, and 
 h m. from Maiazion, there is a very 
 fine view from the high ground with 
 Hud Halamanning on the rt., where 
 a road branches off for Truro and 
 Redruth. From this point all the 
 hills of the Land’s End lie in view, 
 and the eye ranges from Mousehole 
 and Paul Ch. to Kn ill’s Monument 
 at St. Ives. In the far W. rises 
 Chapel Carnbrea, and N. the sandy 
 towans glitter in the sun. Between 
 this point and the turnpike we obtain 
 one of the best views of St. Michael’s 
 Mount in connection with the distant 
 coast and Penzance. On the shore 
 are the Mount's Bay Mine , and a rich 
 tract of land on which the “ Market 
 Jew” turnips are grown. We now 
 enter Marazion , from which St. 
 MichaeVs Mount is to be visited (for 
 both places, see Rte. 29, Exc. 1) ; and 
 3 m. further, Penzance (see Rte. 27). 
 
 ROUTE 29. 
 
 EXCURSIONS FROM PENZANCE. 
 
 1. Penzance to St. Michael’s Mount. 
 
 2. Penzance to St. Ives, by the old road over 
 
 Castell-an-Dinas, returning by the N. 
 coast through Zennor. 
 
 3. Penzance to the Gurnard’s Head, returning 
 
 by Morvah and Madron, visiting Chy- 
 woon Castle, the Holed Stone, Lanyou 
 Quoit, and Trengwainton Cairn. (For 
 pedestrians over Cam Galva, by the Men 
 Scryffen, Boskednan Circle, the Holed 
 Stone, and Lanyon). 
 
 4. Penzance to St. Just, Cape Cornwall, Botal- 
 
 lack Mine, &c., by Sancreed, returning 
 by Newbridge. 
 
 5. Penzance to the Land’s End, returning by 
 
 the Logan Rock, and Buryan. 
 
 6. Penzance to Lamoma Cove, returning by 
 
 Mousehole and Newlyn. 
 
 7. The Scilly Islands. 
 
 The following excursions all ra- 
 diate from Penzance as a centre, 
 like the sticks of a fan, avoiding as 
 much as possible travelling twice 
 over the same road. A tolerable 
 coast road, however, runs nearly 
 round the peninsula from St. Ives by 
 the Gurnard’s Head, Morvah, Pen- 
 deen, St. Just, Land’s End, and the 
 Logan Rock. Taking this road, ladies 
 would scarcely find sufficient sleeping 
 accommodation, except at the Land’s 
 End, or St. Just. The “rougher 
 sex,” if not too exacting, might do 
 so at any of the above places, except 
 
438 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. II 
 
 Gurnard’s Head. The cliff scenery is 
 by far the finest thing in the district ; 
 but it must be remembered that by 
 this road nothing is seen except what 
 is on the coast. 
 
 1. Penzance to St. Michael's Mount: 
 3 in. by road , 2 m. by water ; or 
 by train to Marazion Poad Stat ., 1 
 m. from the Mount. By going at 
 low tide the necessity of having a 
 boat will be avoided. 
 
 The road to St. Michael’s Mount 
 leaves Penzance by its suburb Chyan - 
 dour, — Chy-an-dour, i.e., “house by 
 the water” — in which are the smelt- 
 ing-house and tannery of the Messrs. 
 Bolitho. It crosses Chyandour Brook , 
 which descends in a muddy stream 
 from Ding-Dong tin-mine. It then 
 starts fairly for Marazion, in view 
 of the bay and its fabled Mount, 
 and runs by the side of the rly. 
 along the margin of the shore called 
 the Eastern Green. On the 1. are 
 the range of hills on which Gulval 
 and Ludgvan are situated, and a 
 low tract of boggy land called the 
 Marsh , a part of which was drained 
 about 60 years ago, by Dr. Moyle of 
 Marazion, who was presented for his 
 enterprise with the gold medal of the 
 Soc. of Arts. This marsh, consisting 
 mainly of a bed of peat from 3 to 
 8 ft. thick, covers a bed of sea-sand 
 12 ft. deep, and below that a so 
 called ** submarine forest ” — oaks and 
 hazel prostrate, and lying in all di- 
 rections. A similar “ forest ” extends 
 W. of Penzance for some distance. 
 On the Eastern Green the botanist 
 may find some rare plants, viz. 
 Panicum dac tylum ,'A l isma damasonium, 
 and Santolina maritima ; and in the 
 marshes 1. of the road, Illccebrum 
 verticillatum , Exacum filiformc, and 
 an uncommon variety of Scnccio Ja- 
 cobxa. He may also observe several 
 plants of a local character, viz. Ncot- 
 tia spiralis (. Lady's Tresses ), Euphorbia 
 
 pcplus, and E. paralias or Sea Spurge, 
 on the green ; Alisma ranunculoides, 
 Drosera longifolia, and Scutellaria minor 
 
 in the marshes. On the beach he 
 may find Bulimus acutus, a shell almost 
 peculiar to our S.W. counties. The 
 road passes along the shore to 
 
 Marazion, or Market- Jew, a name 
 still applied to it by the country 
 people ( Inn , the Star), a town in 
 ancient times supported by the pil- 
 grims who resorted to the shrine 
 of St. Michael. Marazion (pop. 
 1545) is generally said to have been 
 named by the Jews, who had here 
 their market for tin, and called this 
 their place of rest, “ Mara-Zion,” 
 the “ Bitter-Zion.” The name is, 
 however, in all probability from 
 “ marghas,” “ maras ” (Cornish), a 
 market. Ion and iou are both plural 
 terminations; so that “marghas- 
 ion,” and “ marghas-iou, ” both sig- 
 nify the “ markets,” and afford 
 satisfactory etymologies for both 
 “Marazion” and “ Market- Jew.” 
 That Marazion was a very ancient 
 smelting place for tin is proved by 
 the discovery, in 1849, of the frag- 
 ments of a bronze furnace within a 
 rude building of unhewn stones near 
 the western boundary of the town. 
 (See Edmonds’ ‘ Land’s End District,’ 
 J. R. Smith, 1862.) The town was 
 pillaged by the French in the reign 
 of Hen. VIII., and again by the 
 Cornish rebels in that of Edward VI., 
 and owing to the suppression of the 
 priory, and the growing importance 
 of Penzance, it never recovered its 
 former prosperity. The chapel 
 here was built in 1861. The parish 
 Church is St. Hilary , 1 m. E., burnt, 
 except the tower, in 1853. This is 
 of Early Dec. date, and very hand- 
 some. During the rebuilding, frag- 
 ments of early work were found, 
 showing that the original ch. had 
 been much more ornamented than 
 any now existing in W. Cornwall. 
 The geologist will find between this 
 place and the Greeb Point, at low 
 water, the back of a fault well dis- 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — St Michael's Mount 
 
 439 
 
 played. It may be remarked that 
 Marazion is known for the produc- 
 tion of a delicious species of turnip. 
 A causeway 400 yds. long, but flooded 
 8 hrs. out of the 12 by the tide, 
 runs from the beach to 
 
 St. Michael's Mount , skirting on 
 the rt. an insulated mass of green- 
 stone, resting on clay-slate, called the 
 Chapel Rock , and once crowned with 
 a chapel, at which the pilgrim halted 
 before climbing the Mount. There 
 are now no traces of such a building ; 
 but Leland mentions “ a lytle chapel 
 yn the sand nere by the towne toward 
 the Mount.” At the base of the 
 Mount lies a fishing-town of 38 houses 
 (4 of them uninhabited) with a Pop. 
 of 132), furnished with a harbour 
 capable of admitting vessels of 500 
 tons, and visited in 1846 by the 
 Queen and P. Albert ; an event com- 
 memorated by a metal tablet in the 
 wall of the E. pier, and by a brass 
 footstep marking the spot on which 
 her Majesty placed her foot on land- 
 ing. From this village the hill rises 
 abruptly to a height of 195 ft., its 
 margin of sea being about 1 m. in 
 circumf. On the W. side the rock 
 scenery is of a romantic description ; 
 and a descent should be made to the 
 water’s edge. There are steps in the 
 sea wall (and a raised beach adjoin- 
 ing), and at low tide you may scram- 
 ble round to another flight on the 
 E. side. The geologist will observe 
 that the granite is vertically di- 
 vided, and that the intermediate 
 spaces are filled principally with 
 quartz, but they also contain wolf- 
 ram, oxide of tin, topazes, apatite, 
 schorl, a kind of tin pyrites, and 
 other minerals. The body of the 
 hill is of granite, but its northern 
 base of slate ; and from this circum- 
 stance, as exhibiting various pheno- 
 mena at the junction of these forma- 
 tions, this rock of St. Michael has 
 excited more geological controversy 
 than any mountain of the world. 
 The structure which has attached to 
 
 it such importance is to be seen 
 on its water-worn margin — on the 
 N.W., where 2 irregular patches of 
 granite are bedded in the slate, and on 
 the S.E., where veins of quartz tra- 
 verse both the granite and the slate. 
 It supported the old hypothesis of 
 the contemporaneous origin of these 
 formations, but is now explained 
 as the result of the following series 
 of events : — 1. The granite was vio- 
 lently projected through the slate 
 in a state of fusion. 2. The ad- 
 joining slate was dissevered by the 
 heat, and the fluid granite pressed 
 into the fissures, and both the granite 
 and slate, as they gradually cooled, 
 were rent by contraction. 3. The 
 partings were afterwards filled by 
 mineral substances. The botanist 
 may find the Tamarisk , Asplenium ma- 
 rinum and lanceolatum , and Inula Ilel- 
 lenium. 
 
 The visitor ascends to the castle on 
 the summit by a rocky path, at the 
 foot of which is a draw-well about 
 6 fath. deep, and a little way up a 
 tank called the Giant's Well. Higher, 
 the approach is commanded by a 
 cross- wall with embrasures, termi- 
 nated by a picturesque ruin which 
 once served the purpose of a sentry- 
 box ; remains which have an ancient 
 appearance, but have been built since 
 the use of gunpowder. Beyond this 
 defence the stranger finds himself 
 upon a platform armed with 2 bat- 
 teries, the cannon bearing the shield 
 of St. Aubyn. An open flight of 
 steps leads to a small saluting battery 
 of brass guns, and to the portal of 
 the castle. The principal rooms 
 are the hall and the chapel. The 
 hall was the refectory of the monks, 
 and is now called the Chevy Chase 
 Room , because surrounded by a cor- 
 nice representing the chace of the 
 boar, stag, bull, fox, ostrich, hare, 
 and rabbit. At the upper end of 
 this apartment are the royal arms 
 and date 1660; at the lower the 
 escutcheon of St. Aubyn. The 
 door is old and of Perp. date*; the 
 
440 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance: Sect. II. 
 
 oaken roof in the style of that of 
 Crosby Hall, with a heavy pendent, 
 out of proportion, hanging from the 
 centre, was added in 1826, and can- 
 not be admired. Here are a Glaston- 
 bury chair, which is at least as 
 authentic a relic as that formerly at 
 Strawberry Hill ; another chair of 
 dark wood, richly carved, with a 
 bas-relief representing Susanna and 
 the Elders; a curious large corner 
 chair ; and a clock, said to have 
 come from Godolphin House when 
 that mansion was dismantled. The 
 chapel is of Perp. date, with a tower 
 on the N. side. The windows are 
 Ear. Perp., except the E. window, 
 which is 4 modern. The stalls were 
 put up in 1801. The chandelier de- 
 serves notice ; the centre part repre- 
 sents St. Michael, surmounted by the 
 Virgin and Child. During the re- 
 pairs a low Gothic doorway was 
 discovered in the S. wall : it was 
 closed by masonry, and had been con- 
 cealed by a platform, but, upon being 
 opened, revealed a flight of steps lead- 
 ing to a vault, in which were found 
 the bones of a large man but no 
 traces of a coffin ; a mysterious cir- 
 cumstance which gave rise to many 
 conjectures as to the fate of the indi- 
 vidual who had been here immured. 
 From the chapel a staircase leads to 
 the top of the tower , which should be 
 ascended for the sake of the prospect, 
 and also for a view of the stone lan- 
 tern on its S.W. angle This tower, 
 dating from the early part of the 
 15th centy., is the most ancient por- 
 tion of the building, and the loftiest. 
 Its summit is 250 ft. above the sands. 
 The lantern is popularly called St. 
 Michael's Chair , since it will just 
 allow of one person sitting down in 
 it ; hut this, a common feat, is not 
 devoid of risk, as the lantern projects, 
 and it requires a dexterous move- 
 ment of the body to return to the 
 tower. Ladies, however, not un- 
 frequently find courage for the ad- 
 venture, as there is a conceit that the 
 husband or wife who first obtains a 
 
 seat in this chair will thereby gain 
 the ascendency in domestic affairs. 
 
 It was undoubtedly a stone lantern 
 or beacon, by which the fishermen * 
 were guided to their port in the win- | 
 ter; the grooves for the glass, and 
 holes for the bars, remaining distinct, 
 (The will of Sir J olm Arundell, 1433, ; 
 gives 13s. 4d. to the light of St. j 
 Michael in the Mount, and the same 
 sum “open cancellarie ibidem fa- 
 ciende.” A similar light-house ex- 
 isted on the top of the chapel of St. 
 Nicholas at Ilfracombe.) The dwell- 
 ing-rooms are principally remarkable | 
 for the wild views they command, I 
 and for their retirement, which is 1 
 alone disturbed by the deep murmur j 
 of the sea, or the noise of the howling e 
 wind. The drawing-rooms, erected f 
 by the late Sir John St. Aubyn, 
 upon the site of the ancient conven- j 
 tual buildings, are surrounded by an 
 elevated and broad terrace with an 
 open granite parapet, and contain 
 some family portraits, besides a very 
 pretty picture by Opie of his niece 
 Miss Burns, and another by the same 
 artist of Dolly Pentreath. At the E. 
 end of the building is a handsome 
 cross , and on the S. side a garden, 
 The abominable Roman cement with 
 which the walls are desecrated was 
 part of the “ decoration ” of 1826. 
 
 With respect to the natural, eccle- 
 siastical, and military history of this 
 interesting spot, the following brief 
 particulars must suffice. Its old 
 Cornish name, according to Carew, 
 was Caraclowse in Cowse 1 “carr eg , 
 cleug in coes,” usually interpreted 
 the Grey Rock in the Wood ; and 
 seems to favour the tradition that 
 the mount was once clothed with 
 trees and situated some distance from 
 the sea. This may possibly have ■ 
 been so ; but at a remote geological 
 period. The first mention of the 
 Cornish name occurs in Carew’s 
 4 Survey/ published in 1602, and it 
 cannot be traced higher. There 
 was, however, an older tradition that 
 the mount once stood in a forest. 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — Si. Michael's Mount. 
 
 441 
 
 William of Worcester, r 125 years 
 before Carew, asserts it positively, 
 and gives the mount the English 
 name of the 44 Hoar rock in the wood.” 
 Prof. Max Muller ( 4 Chips/ vol. iii.) 
 shows that Worcester confounds the 
 traditions of the Norman Mount St. 
 Michael with the early history of the 
 Cornish . A book belonging to the 
 former house had been transferred to 
 Cornwall — and the history was used 
 by Worcester as that of the Priory 
 and Mount he was visiting. It is 
 certain that the Norman Mount was 
 believed to have been anciently sur- 
 rounded by forests and meadows — 
 and a comparison of the old chronicle 
 of Mt. St. Michael, quoted by Mabil- 
 Ion, with the words of William of Wor- 
 cester, shows that the description is 
 the same in both. Prof. Miillel con- 
 siders that the English name arose 
 in the monastery from a confusion 
 between the two places. The Cor- 
 nish name does not, he suggests, 
 mean the 44 Hoar Rock in the wood,” 
 but 44 the Old Rock of the tomb ” ; 
 and 44 Mons Tumba in Cornubia,” 
 4< St. Michael in Tumba,” are used 
 to describe the Cornish mount, 
 after it became connected with the 
 mount in Normandy — frequently 
 called 44 Tumba.” Thus the sup- 
 posed authority for the surrounding 
 forest vanishes altogether, — and Mr. 
 Pengelly’s theory that the Cor- 
 nish name proved that the mount 
 must have been converted from a 
 promontory into an island since 
 Cornwall was inhabited by a people 
 speaking the Cornish language, dis- 
 appears just as completely. If the 
 mount was ever surrounded by wood 
 it must have been in days when the 
 submerged forest of Mounts Bay was 
 flourishing, and this takes us back 
 to the age of the Mammoth and 
 Mastodon. At a very early time this 
 romantic eminence was consecrated 
 to religion. Old legends assert that 
 the archangel St. Michael appeared 
 to some hermits upon one of its 
 crags; and tradition, pointing to a 
 
 large rock on the western side, as 
 the spot where this vision was seen, 
 has given it the appellation of St. 
 Michael's Chair , a name erroneously 
 transferred to the lantern on the 
 tower. Milton in his 4 Lycidas,’ has 
 alluded to this apparition in the 
 following lines :• — 
 
 “ Or whether thou, to our moist vows deny’d, 
 Sleep’st by the fable of Bellerus old, 
 
 Where the great vision of the guarded Mount 
 Looks toward Namancos and Bayona's hold, 
 Look homeward, angel, now,"*and melt with 
 ruth, 
 
 And, 0 ye dolphins, waft the hapless youth.” 
 
 We have notices of the Mount hav- 
 ing been a hallowed spot long before 
 Edward the Confessor granted it to 
 St. Michael in Normandy, and there 
 is a legend that in the 5th centy. St. 
 Keyne, a damsel of royal birth, came 
 here on a pilgrimage to the shrine 
 of its tutelary saint. At the Con- 
 quest, Edward’s monastery fell to the 
 share of Robert Earl of Mortain, 
 who bore the standard of St. Michael 
 in the Norman host, and who con- 
 firmed the grant which had already 
 been made by the Confessor, bestow- 
 ing St. Michael’s Mount in Cornwall 
 on the great Benedictine House of 
 St. Michael 44 in periculo maris *’ on 
 the opposite coast of Normandy. 
 The Cornish St. Michael’s was at 
 first a mere cell ; but afterwards ob- 
 tained a distinct corporate character, 
 and had a convent, a seal, and a per- 
 petual prior. (See Olivers 4 Monast. 
 Diocesis Exon.’ There is no evidence 
 whatever for the assertion made by 
 Nichols and others, that the monks 
 here were Gilbertines, whose rules 
 permitted nuns under the same roof.) 
 The rock and buildings are on a small 
 scale compared to those of St. 
 Michael’s in Normandy ; but it is 
 probable that the resemblance of the 
 two rocks suggested the grant of 
 Edward the Confessor. 
 
 Both Mounts were fortresses as 
 well as religious houses; both con- 
 tained garrisons as well as convents ; 
 and it is remarkable that the same 
 u 3 
 
442 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. 11. 
 
 tradition of extensive lands and 
 forests submerged by the sea, is cur- 
 rent of both (but see ante). The 
 priory here (as a distinct corporation) 
 was not taken possession of under 
 the acts for suppressing alien priories, 
 temp. Hen. IV. and V. ; but under 
 the authority of parliament it was 
 transferred by Hen. Y. to the new 
 monastery of Sion, to which it be- 
 longed until the Dissolution. After 
 that period the families of Arundell 
 of Lanherne, Milliton, Harris, Cecil, 
 and Basset, became successively its 
 proprietors, and about the year 
 1660, it was sold to the St. Aubyns. 
 It is now the residence of J. St. 
 Aubyn, Esq., M.P. for W. Cornwall, 
 who has here received the Queen, 
 the Prince of Wales, and other royal 
 personages. In 1865 and 1866 the 
 Mount was struck by lightning ; and 
 considerable damage was done to 
 the interior on both occasions. 
 
 The military annals of the Mount 
 commence with King Richard’s cap- 
 tivity, when Henry de la ^Pomeroy 
 gained possession of the place, and 
 held it in the interest of John. 
 Upon the return of the king, how- 
 ever, the garrison surrendered, and, 
 according to the tradition, Pomeroy, 
 in despair, caused himself to be bled 
 to death. In the reign of Edward 
 IV. the Earl of Oxford and some 
 companions, having tied from the 
 field of Barnet, approached the 
 Mount under the disguise of pil- 
 grims, and thus effecting an entrance, 
 prepared to defend themselves to the 
 last extremity. They repulsed seve- 
 ral attacks by the sheriff of the 
 county, Sir John Arundell, who was 
 slain on the sands and buried in the 
 Mount Church, and they resisted so 
 manfully as to obtain a pardon. In 
 the reign of Henry VII. Lady Cath- 
 erine Gordon, the wife of Perkin 
 Warbeck, here found a temporary 
 asylum, from which she was taken 
 by Lord Daubeny, and delivered to 
 the king. Again, during the rising 
 of the Western Counties in 15PJ 
 
 (Edward VI.), the Mount attracted 
 the notice of the country, when its 
 Governor, Humphrey Arundell of 
 Lanherne, having joined the rebels, I 
 it was taken by a party for the king, <; 
 but retaken by the insurgents, who, J 
 passing the sands at low water, i 
 stormed the base of the hill, and then 
 the summit, by carrying trusses of p 
 hay before them to deaden the shot. 
 They were, however, eventually j 
 driven out, and their leader paid the ! 
 penalty of his treason on the scaffold. 
 The last event of a military nature > 
 which occurred at the Mount was its 
 reduction by the parliamentary 
 troops under Colonel Hammond, p 
 Upon this occasion the garrison 
 made a stout defence under the com- i t 
 mand of Sir Francis Basset, and upon i I 
 capitulation obtained permission to 
 retire to the Isles of Scilly. For the 
 antiquary the Mount of St. Michael j 
 possesses additional interest as hav- 1 j 
 ing been considered the Iktis of Diod. < > 
 Siculus, to which the Greek mer- 
 chants traded for tin. This, however, 
 is at least doubtful ; and if the island j 
 can be identified at all, Wight 
 (Ycctis) seems to have the best 
 claim. But it is probable that the g 
 L Ictis 9 of Diodorus represents more 
 than one insulated “ emporium ” for ! 
 tin. (See Introd. for some remarks 
 on this subject, and on the sup- 
 posed intercourse of the Phoeni- , I 
 cians with Cornwall.) It would seem 
 that old Cornish tradition assigned 
 the building of the first “ castle ” on 
 the Mount to the Giant Cormoran — 
 killed by the famous Giant-queller , 
 Jack, of whom the rhyme ran ; — 
 
 “ This is the valiant Cornisliman 
 Who slew the Giant Cormoran.” 
 
 The grave of this giant’s wife, who, 
 when the castle was in building, was \ 
 killed by her husband because she 
 brought in her apron a mass of 
 greenstone for the walls, instead of 
 granite — is held to be Chapel Rock 
 {ante) — the greenstone of which fell 
 when Cormoran attacked her. 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — St. Ives. 
 
 443 
 
 2. Penzance to St. Ives by the old road 
 over Castell-an-Dinas, returning by 
 the N. coast through Zennor. 
 
 There are three ways of going to 
 St. Ives, (a) By train to St. Ives- 
 road Station , distant 4 m. from St. 
 Ives. (No conveyances, public or 
 private, are to be obtained at the 
 station. Omnibuses run between 
 Hayle and St. Ives from some of the 
 trains.) (IS) By the new turnpike 
 road through Lelant, following very 
 much the line of the railway as far 
 as St. Ives-road Station. By this 
 road St. Ives is about 10 m. from 
 Penzance. (c) By the old road 
 over Castell-an-Dinas, which, though 
 rough and hilly, is by far the most 
 beautiful, and amply repays the 
 traveller for any inconvenience aris- 
 ing from the badness of the road. It 
 leaves Penzance by its eastern en- 
 trance, passes through Chyandour, 
 and turns immediately to the left at 
 the back of Ponsandane , E. F. Boli- 
 tbo, Esq. ; and Pendre , J. St. Aubyn, 
 Esq., M.P. Turning off from the 
 Zennor road, we enter the village of 
 Gulval. The ch. (restored 1857) is J 
 m. to the eastward, and is remark- 
 able for the great inclination (north- 
 ward) of its chancel. In the church- 
 yard is a cross of the usual Cornish 
 type. St. Gulwal was Bp. of St. 
 Malo (?) in the 6th centy. From 
 Gulval village commences a long 
 climb of 2 m. over the shoulder of 
 Castell-an Dinas. 
 
 The entrace on the left, soon after 
 leaving Gulval, is Kenegie , formerly 
 the seat of a younger branch of the 
 Harris family of Hayne, near Lifton, 
 in Devon (many of whose monuments 
 are in Gulval ch.), but now belong- 
 ing to W. Coulson, Esq., the eminent 
 surgeon. The views of Mount Bay, 
 during the whole of the ascent, are 
 most beautiful. At the nearest point 
 to the top of Castell-an-Dinas there is 
 a footpath on 1., leading up to it 
 
 across three or four fields, about 10 
 minutes’ walk. The carriage must 
 be left in the road. We are now 735 
 ft. above the sea, in a position inter- 
 mediate between the two channels, 
 and commanding a superb panorama. 
 On a clear day to the eastward, be- 
 tween Trink and Trecrobben Hills, 
 the lighthouse on Trevose Head can 
 be seen. Inland from it Eoughtor 
 and Brown Willy are said4o be visi- 
 ble, but are not easily made out by 
 persons unacquainted with the coun- 
 try. The round hill on the cliff short 
 of Trevose is St. Agnes Beacon. 
 Beneath us, still to the E., is the 
 great mining field of Bedruth and 
 Camborne, with its numerous popu- 
 lation dotted in white houses about 
 it. Above it is Carn Bre, with the 
 Dunstanville pillar on it. 
 
 To the S. is the expanse of Mount’s 
 Bay from Mousehole to the Lizard, 
 with Penzance and the Mount almost 
 at our feet. 
 
 To the W. Buryan Tower rises con- 
 spicuously, and the high hills of 
 Sancreed Beacon and Chapel Carn 
 Bre, which overlooks the Land’s 
 End ; while to the N., over Towed- 
 nack, a small patch of the Bristol 
 Channel can be seen between 'the 
 hills. 
 
 The summit of Castell-an-Dinas is 
 crowned with a circular fortification, 
 similar to the one at Chun (see next 
 Exc.), but not so perfect ; in the 
 centre of it there is a modern watch- 
 tower or “ folly,” probably built with 
 stones taken from the walls of the 
 old camp. The castle consisted ori- 
 ginally of 2 very thick concentric 
 stone walls, with a space of about 
 30 ft. between them. Beyond these 
 walls, at a distance of about 40 ft., 
 was an external vallum of earth and 
 stones; and without again is an- 
 other strong wall toward the west, 
 reaching nearly half round the castle. 
 In Borlase’s time there were many 
 circular enclosures within the central 
 area, each about 7 yds. diam., formed 
 by walls only 2 or 3 ft. high. (Ed- 
 
Route 29. — Excursions from Penzance: Sect. II. 
 
 444 
 
 monds's * Lcind*s End District.’) Be- 
 tween the camp and the road, close 
 to the footpath, is the modern grave 
 and monument of a gentleman who 
 preferred this airy situation to the 
 “ snug lying ” of a churchyard. 
 
 Returning to the carriage we soon 
 descend to Nancledre, a small village 
 in the valley, thence to Chypons. 
 
 1 m. 1., as we rise the hill, is the 
 Church of Towednack. [This ch. is 
 late, with the exception of an E. Eng. 
 chancel arch — a rare feature in 
 Cornish churches. The massive cor- 
 nice and stringcourse of the low 
 tower, “though plain, are very ef- 
 fective, and in harmony with the 
 rugged desolation of the spot.” — E. 
 Godwin. The plaster of the internal 
 walls encourages the growth of a 
 rare alga, Oscillatoria cyanea. “ It 
 grows here abundantly, clothing the 
 walls with a beautiful light sky-blue 
 colour.” — BlighC] Notice the granite 
 block which forms one of the benches 
 in the porch. It bears a double cross, 
 incised, and is probably an early 
 sepulchral monument. The names 
 of the farms between Chypons and 
 Towednack are curious : Amalebria, 
 Amalwidden, Amalveor, Biggletub- 
 ben, Skelywadden, and Coldh arbour. 
 Passing over the shoulder of Trink 
 Hill, we approach Hcdsetown, a cu- 
 rious village of detached houses, 
 with a very pretty ch. (built 1846). 
 The road passes through Halsetown, 
 and enters St. Ives by its western 
 entrance, the one the traveller will 
 probably leave it by ; we recommend 
 him, therefore, to turn away to the 
 right before reaching Halsetown, and 
 by a winding lane to come out into 
 the St. Ives and Lelant road, be- 
 tween Trevethow and Weal Provi- 
 dence, just above Carrack Gladden 
 beach, where the Maidenhair fern 
 grows. (See post.) The traveller will 
 thus enter St. Ives from the S. 
 “ The slopes and banks between St. 
 Ives and Lelant are very beautiful 
 from the abundance of blue, red, and 
 white varieties of Columbine, Aqui- 
 
 legia vulgaris. Near St. Ives may be 
 found Statice Dodartii and Orohanche 
 barbata .” — Blight’s ‘ Week at Land's 
 End: 
 
 The houses of St. Ives (Inns: 
 Western Hotel ; St. Ives Hotel ; Pop. 
 7027) lie nestling on the very skirt 
 of the sea, and with the blue sky and 
 ocean (the dim coast-line running 
 up to Trevose Head, a distance of 30 
 m.), the green tints of the shallows, 
 and the sparkle of the bright yellow 
 sandy shore, form altogether a very 
 pleasing picture. The traveller may 
 gaze at this gem of western scenery 
 with yet greater interest when he 
 learns that it has been compared, as 
 seen from this point, with a Greek 
 village; and it must be admitted 
 that “the charm of blended and 
 intermingled land and sea, the 
 breaking waves and changing bright- 
 ness of the resounding ocean, amidst 
 picturesque cliffs richly tinged with 
 aerial hues,” which have been said 
 to characterise Grecian scenery, here 
 lend their aid to complete the resem- 
 blance. A descent into the streets, 
 or rather lanes, will, however, some- 
 what qualify his admiration, al- 
 though in this respect there is no 
 want of resemblance to the Greek 
 type. The town is the head-quarters 
 of the pilchard fishermen (refer to 
 Introduction ), and therefore tainted 
 with the effluvia of the cellars. Tra- 
 dition assigns its foundation to St. 
 Ia, the daughter of an Irish chief- 
 tain, and companion of St. Piran in 
 his missionary expedition to Corn- 
 wall. According to the legend, St. 
 Piran landed, about the year 460, at 
 Pendinas, where Tewdor, the king 
 of the country, had a palace ; and 
 Dinan, a lord of his court, at the 
 request of St. Ia, built a church at 
 the same place. As a fishing station, 
 St. Ives is likewise patronised by St. 
 Leonard, to whom there was once a 
 chapel, of which remains may still 
 be seen near the pier. It is now 
 used for storing away fishing-tackle. 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — St. Ives . 
 
 445 
 
 TI 10 town of those early days stood 
 on the promontory, where walls and 
 other ruins have been found beneath 
 the sand. 
 
 The Church (Henry V., YI.) stands 
 close to the beach, and is sprinkled 
 by the sea during gales of wind. It 
 is built of granite, and contains a 
 curious 13th-centy. font, and accord- 
 ing to tradition the bones of St. Ia. 
 The waggon-roof is very handsome, 
 elaborately carved, and has figures 
 of angels at the springing of the 
 braces; there are also some good 
 carved bench-ends ; a portion of the 
 screen remains which was presented 
 by Ealph dies, the master-smith at 
 the building of the ch., and bears 
 the supposed portraits of himself 
 and his wife, and the implements of 
 his trade. There is a cross in the 
 ch.-yard. 
 
 The pier was constructed in 1767, 
 by Smeaton, the architect of the 
 Eddystone lighthouse ; and a break- 
 water was commenced 1816, but 
 abandoned after an outlay of 5000Z. 
 It would have rendered the bay, 
 which is now exposed to the N. 
 and E., a secure anchorage. The 
 project, however, may yet be carried 
 out, as the completion of the break- 
 water was recommended by a Com- 
 mittee of the House of Commons in 
 1859, and the fitness of St. Ives for a 
 harbour of refuge is still under con- 
 sideration. The harbours of .Hayle, 
 Portreath, and St. Agnes are within 
 the jurisdiction of this port. 
 
 There are several mines in the 
 vicinity of St. Ives. The SL Ives 
 Consols , situated close to the town, 
 is one of the largest tin concerns in 
 the county, and remarkable for a 
 lode of extraordinary size, which is 
 known as the Carbona, and has 
 been worked full 60 ft. in length, 
 breadth, and height. The neigh- 
 bourhood bristles with rugged rock- 
 strewn hills, of which Bosewall, S.W., 
 has a logan stone on its eastern sum- 
 mit. An eminence to the S., and 
 
 545 ft. above the sea, is crowned by 
 a monument erected 1782, by one 
 Knill, an eccentric bencher of Gray’s 
 Inn. This person originally intended 
 it as a mausoleum for his remains, 
 but he revoked this intention, and 
 left his body by will to the anato- 
 mists of London. The structure con- 
 sists of a granite pyramid, on one 
 side of which is inscribed “ Johannes 
 Knill, 1782 ; ” on another, “ Kesur- 
 gam;” and on a third, “I know 
 that my Eedeemer liveth.” Knill 
 died in 1811, leaving directions that, 
 at the end of every 5 years, a matron 
 and 10 maidens dressed in white 
 should walk in procession, with 
 music, from the market-house to this 
 pyramid, around which they should 
 dance, singing the 100th Psalm. 
 He bequeathed for the purpose of 
 perpetuating this custom some lands, 
 which are vested in the officiating 
 minister, the mayor, and the col- 
 lector of the port of St. Ives. At 
 the foot of the hill is Tregenna , the 
 seat of H. Lewis Stephens, Esq. 
 The house is a castellated building, 
 erected in 1774, and commands the 
 beautiful shore-scene of St. Ives Bay. 
 Among the plants of this neighbour- 
 hood the botanist will notice Exacum 
 fili forme , and the rare and elegant 
 fern Adiantum capillus Veneris. This 
 latter grows in a damp cave on Car- 
 rack Gladden beach, about half way 
 between Hayle and St. Ives. The 
 cave until lately was festooned and 
 lined with Maidenhair ; but the ferns 
 have been, to a great extent, de- 
 stroyed by the u natives,” in order 
 to increase the value of plants they 
 have for sale. The cave might, and 
 should, be closed by an iron grating. 
 Helix inoculosa and II. pisana , or 
 Banded-snail, both rare shells, and 
 the latter confined in England to 
 this locality, are to be found on the 
 sandhills. St. Ives, which is the only 
 parliamentary borough in this dis- 
 trict, was incorporated 1639, mainly 
 through the exertions of Francis 
 Basset, of Tehidy, who, as M.P. for 
 
446 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 29 . — Excwsions from Penzance : 
 
 the borough, presented to the town 
 the “loving cup” which graces the 
 mayor’s table at the meetings of 
 the corporation. It is surmounted 
 by the figure of a man in armour 
 resting on the shield of the Bassets. 
 It is of silver gilt, and bears the 
 following inscription : — 
 
 “ If any discord ’twixt my friends arise 
 Within the borough of beloved St. Ives, 
 
 It is desyred that this my cup of love 
 To everie one a peacemaker may prove ; 
 Then I am blest to have given a legacie 
 So like my harte‘'unto*posteritie. 
 
 Francis Basset, 1640.” 
 
 The town seal, the gift of James 
 Praed of Trevethow, 1690, repre- 
 sents an ivy-branch. In 1647 St. Ives 
 was ravaged by the plague, which 
 swept away nearly a third of its in- 
 habitants. It, however, escaped the 
 cholera. It was the birthplace (1713) 
 of Jonathan Toup, the editor of Lon- 
 ginus. 
 
 The return journey to Penzance 
 by Zennor is about 11 or 12 m. of 
 hilly road, and will take nearly 2 
 hours. The road leaves St. Ives by 
 its western entrance, and immedi- 
 ately commences a long steep ascent ; 
 the views, however, from which, 
 seawards and eastwards, are ex- 
 ceedingly beautiful in clear bright 
 weather. On reaching St. Ives Con- 
 sols (the road goes through the 
 middle of the mine), a road turns 
 1. to Towdenack and Halsetown (the 
 road, indeed, from which we diverged 
 before reaching tbe latter village). 
 Our road still ascends: on 1., Tre- 
 valcjan Hill (Trev-alcan = place of 
 tin), a fine rough hill covered with 
 granite boulders. A fine view back- 
 wards, from the highest point of 
 tbe road, before it descends again, 
 should be noticed. The road now 
 winds along, having rough granite 
 hills and furzy crofts on the 1., a 
 great expanse of sea J m. to the rt. ; 
 the cliffs of no great height, but an 
 ugly neighbourhood for a ship in a 
 storm. 
 
 The hill over Zennor is covered 
 
 with remarkable horizontally divided 
 masses of granite in many places, 
 reminding one of the Cheesewring. 
 Here, too, is Zennor Quoit , the finest 
 cromlech in the district. It lies on 
 an elevated plain, nearly i m. E. of 
 Zennor ch., and consists of a double 
 “kistvaen” (stone chest), with a 
 covering slab which measures 18 ft. 
 in length, 11 in breadth, and 48 
 in circumference. One end of this 
 stone rests on the ground. It was 
 supported by seven upright piers. 
 The cromlech belongs to the same 
 class as Arthur’s Quoit, in Gower, 
 South Wales, which had 10 or 11 
 supporters. In Borlase’s time the 
 heap of stones, 14 yds. in diameter, 
 under which the whole structure was 
 buried, almost reached the edge of 
 the quoit, or horizontal slab when 
 resting on its supporters. It seem3 
 probable that this cromlech is the 
 largest in the British islands. The 
 road passes within 200 yds. of Zen- 
 nor ch., plain, and of no great in- 
 terest, said to have been dependent 
 on St. Michael’s Mount. It contains 
 a font of the late Dec. period, and 
 some remains of carved bench-ends, 
 on one of which is the figure of a 
 mermaid. On the further side of the 
 ch. from us (towards the sea) is a 
 small logan stone, 19 ft. long, 3 thick, 
 called the “ Giant’s Kock.” “ It 
 rocks admirably if any one stands 
 upon it on the corner nearest the 
 church.” At Pennance , in this pa- 
 rish, is a remarkable barrow, resem- 
 bling the “giants’ graves” in Scilly 
 {Gent. Mag., July, 1865, p. 31). 
 
 A road rt. leads from Zennor to 
 the Gurnard’s Head, about 2 m. dis- 
 tant, which, if pressed for time, can 
 be combined with to-day’s excursion 
 (for description see the next Excur- 
 sion) ; otherwise our, and the best, 
 road turns away over the hill to the 
 1. ; from the top of the hill the Gur- 
 nard’s Head can be seen and a view 
 of both channels. The road from 
 hence is not very interesting till near 
 Penzance, It joins the direct road 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — The Gurnard? s Head. 
 
 447 
 
 from Penzance to the Gurnard’s 
 Head, under Mulfra Quoit. For de- 
 scription, see the next Excursion. 
 From Zennor to Penzance is about 
 
 7 m. 
 
 3. Penzance to the* Gurnard? s Head , 
 returning by Morvah and Madron , 
 visiting Chun Castle „ the Holed 
 Stone , Lanyon Quoit , and Treng- 
 wainton Cairn. ( For pedestrians 
 over Cam Galva , by the Men 
 Scryffen , JBoshednan Circle, the 
 Holed Stone , cmd Lanyon.) 
 
 The Gurnard’s Head , or Treryn 
 Dinas, is a; promontory on the N. 
 coast, about 7 m. from Penzance. 
 The direct road leaves Penzance by 
 its E. entrance, and turning imme- 
 diately to the left at Chyandour, 
 ascends the hill towards Trevailer, 
 instead of turning rt. to Gulval vil- 
 lage. A fine view of St. Michael’s 
 Mount immediately after the turn- 
 ing. 
 
 rt. Bleu (i.e. parish) Bridge , at the 
 bottom of the steep hill next turning 
 on rt., a picturesque spot, with some 
 lofty elms. At the end of the bridge 
 (which is a mere crossing-stone (is 
 a granite block, 6 ft. high, with the 
 inscription, “ Quenatavus Icdinui 
 filius.” 
 
 Trevailer , the seat of the Kev. W. 
 Veale: the road passes under a fine 
 avenue of trees. We are now just 
 on the junction of the granite and 
 slate. In the bottom, on the rt. be- 
 tween this place and Chyandour, we 
 have passed probably some of the 
 most productive land in the neigh- 
 bourhood of Penzance. With the 
 exception of a granite quarry on rt., 
 belonging to the Messrs. Freeman, 
 there is little of interest till we come 
 to the turning rt. to Zennor. 
 
 The high hill on 1. is Mulfra 
 (Mulfra is a cormorant or gannet, 
 the “ Cormorant’s Hill ”), the sum- 
 mit of which is crowned with a re- 
 
 markable cromlech (called Mulfra 
 Quoit), which seems to have stood 
 originally on four uprights, like the 
 Chun cromlech : the table-stone of 
 this appears to have been pushed, or 
 to have slipped off, and one of the 
 four supporters has disappeared. 
 There is a fine view of both channels 
 from the top of the hill. 
 
 About 1 m. after passing Mulfra, 
 and J m. to the 1. is a fallen crom- 
 lech, of the same plan as those of 
 Mulfra and Chun, but with the re- 
 markable feature *of a circular cover- 
 ing stone, diam. 4 ft. 10 in. and 5 in. 
 thick. It is now lying on the ground. 
 500 yds. N. from this cromlech, and 
 close to the village of Bosphrennis , 
 is the most perfect specimen of a 
 bee-hive hut remaining, probably in 
 England. It consists of two cham- 
 bers, one circular, 13 ft. diam. ; the 
 other, an oblong parallelogram, 9 ft. 
 by 7, with a doorway 3 ft. 10 high, 
 communicating with the outer cham- 
 ber. In the end wall (8 ft. 6 in. 
 high of the square chamber is a 
 window about 1 ft. high and 4 ft. 
 from the ground. The principal en- 
 trance faces S.W. ; and not far from 
 it is a window (? opening) in the 
 wall of the circular chamber, with 
 lintel and jambs. Each course of 
 stone was stepped over that beneath 
 it. There are remains of other huts 
 in the immediate vicinity, and traces 
 of rude enclosures. More perfect 
 examples may be seen in Ireland, 
 where a square chamber adjoining a 
 circular one is generally believed to 
 indicate an oratory opening from a 
 hermit’s cell. The date of this hut 
 at Bosphrennis is quite uncertain. 
 
 The direct road continues straight 
 to the Gurnard’s Head, or rather to 
 the village of Trereen, where the 
 carriage must be left : .the headland 
 itself being J m. further across some 
 fields, with one or two hedges to be 
 climbed. 
 
 In preference to this road we ven- 
 ture to recommend travellers to fol- 
 low the old St. Ives road from 
 
448 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. II. 
 
 Penzance as far as a place marked 
 “ Badgers Cross” on the Ordnance 
 map (for description, see previous 
 Excursion 2), and to take the turn- 
 ing I., which will bring him out on 
 the direct road, a little to the S, of 
 Mulfra Quoit. He will thus be en- 
 abled to see the remains of the an- 
 cient British village of Chysawster 
 (the name signifies “heap-shaped,” 
 or “ bee-hive ” houses). It lies on 
 the rt. of the road, near a farm 
 of the same name. It seems to 
 have once been enclosed by a wall 
 or fortification of some kind, two 
 tolerably perfect slopes or embank- 
 ments existing on the W. side. 
 Within this embankment are about 
 a dozen dwellings ; each oval-shaped, 
 with a very thick and strong wall 
 of uncemented stone, surrounding 
 an open central area, to which there 
 is only one entrance. In the thick- 
 ness of this wall three or more oval 
 apartments are formed, each faced 
 internally with a wall of rough ma- 
 sonry, and each having a doorway 
 between 2 and 3 ft. wide, leading into 
 the central area. The walls inclined 
 inward towards the top, till they 
 either met, or left but a small space 
 to be roofed over, which was pro- 
 bably done with a flat stone. [The 
 4 ‘pounds” or villages on Dartmoor, 
 and especially Grimspound ( Devon , 
 Rte. 8), should be compared; Chy- 
 sawster, however, more nearly re- 
 sembles the Irish “ cloghauns.”] 
 Similar remains in Cornwall are Bo- 
 dennar Crellas in Sancreed (see post), 
 Bosphrennis in Zennor (ante), and 
 Bosullow (see post). (For some 
 general remarks see Introd). Be- 
 tween the “village” and Chysaw- 
 ster farm is a so-called cave ; it may 
 perhaps be doubted whether this is 
 one of the habitations remaining 
 perfect with its roof on, and its in- 
 terior considerably filled up, or whe- 
 ther it is such a cave as that at 
 Treewoofe (see Exc. 6). As with so 
 many ancient relics all over the 
 world, the possessors have been too 
 
 apt to look on the walls as a quarry 
 of stones lying ready to hand. 
 
 The village lies about 3 fields in 
 to the rt., J m. N.W. of Chysawster j 
 farm, partly in a field, partly in the 
 croft, and can easily be found, al- 
 though the walls are now much 
 covered with turf, furze, and broom. 
 
 The Gurnard's Head, like the head- i 
 land of the Logan rock, has evi- 
 dently, at an early time, been forti- 
 fied as a cliff-castle, and, projecting 
 far into the waves, commands an 
 excellent view of the neighbouring 
 coast. E. and W. this huge barrier 
 dives sheer down into deep water, so 
 that the heaviest seas roll in un- 
 checked and burst upon it with ter- 
 rific violence. The background of 
 the shore is also most interesting. 
 Hills of rock and heather, sweeping 
 round in the form of a crescent, ter- 
 minated on one side by Carnminnis, 
 on the other by Carn Galva, enclose 
 a great terrace extending to» the 
 cliffs. On the isthmus connecting 
 the Gurnard’s Head with the main- 
 land are the remains of a small chapel, 
 with the altar-stone entire. There 
 was a holy well close by. The Gur- 
 nard’s Head exhibits to those who i 
 scramble along the base of it (a ! 
 feat practicable at low water) a 
 splendid section of the strata. It is i 
 composed of slaty felspar, horn- 4 
 blende, and greenstone. It its vici- j 
 nity the romantic cliffs of Zennor (E.) 
 run for nearly J m. on the junction- | 
 line of the granite and slate; and 
 Porthmeer (i.e. sea-port) Cove , 1 m. 
 W., is well known to geologists for 
 the large size of the granite veins ■ 
 which there penetrate the slate. 
 (For pedestrians see end of this 
 Excursion.) 
 
 Returning to the carriage at Tre- 
 reen, a picturesque road leads be- ‘ 
 tween the high lands of Carn Galva, 
 &c., and the sea, on rt. through j 
 Morvah and Zennor mines to 
 Morvah. 
 
 One of the most picturesque head- j 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — The Gurnard’s Head. 
 
 449 
 
 lands passed on rt. is Bosigran Castle, 
 once fortified, like so many of the 
 points in the W. Within it is a flat 
 logan rock, containing several rock 
 basins, and measuring several yards 
 in circumference. 
 
 Shortly before reaching Morvah, 
 our road turns up a sharp hill to the 
 1. : on reaching the top a fine view 
 of both channels is gained. 
 
 f m. rt. across the down, only 
 accessible for pedestrians (the car- 
 riage had better be left at this point), 
 is Chyivoon (pronounced Chun) castle 
 (the name means house on the down), 
 the most easterly of seven hill castles 
 between this place and the Land’s 
 End, from which signals might 
 be interchanged. The circle of the 
 walls may be easily made out crown- 
 ing the summit of the second hill 
 S. of the road, just before it begins 
 to descend towards Lanyon farm. It 
 is somewhat similar in construction 
 to Caer Bran Bound (see next Exc.), 
 but is by far the best example of a 
 hill castle remaining in the West. 
 
 Three lines of wall exist, built of 
 rough stones. “ Stones of great size 
 were used, carefully built together, 
 and at some parts tall uprights were 
 placed at tolerably regular distances, 
 
 I then large blocks laid horizontally be- 
 tween them, and on these, courses of 
 smaller stone. This manner of build- 
 ing may be observed at the Bosullow 
 huts, about a furlong from Chun 
 Castle and on Zennor Downs are 
 the remains of a circle of upright 
 pillars with masonry of small stones 
 ■ between them. This kind of work 
 will not, however, be found to pre- 
 vail among the liill-castles, and it 
 might be worthy of consideration 
 •whether it indicates early or late 
 work.” — J. T. Blight. The hand of 
 i the destroyer has been at work here 
 too, and so many of the stones have 
 been removed for building, that the 
 ri circles are far less perfect than in 
 Borlase’s time, 100 years ago. The 
 interior diameter, E. to W., is 125 ft., 
 
 and N. to S., 110. Traces of divi- 
 sions, or walls, exist in the interior, 
 which Borlase supposes to have been 
 huts or chambers for the shelter of 
 the occupants of the castle. Within 
 one of these is a well, with steps to 
 go down to the water. The entrance, 
 called “ the iron gateway ” -(the 
 walls crossing the ditches, and the 
 arrangements for defending this 
 gateway, should be noticed), faces 
 W.S.W., pointing straight to 
 
 Chun Quoit , a cromlech about 
 200 yards distant : a picturesque ob- 
 ject, but smaller and less striking 
 than Lanyon Quoit ( vid . inf.). Its 
 table-stone is 12 J ft. in length, by 
 11 1 in width ; a barrow of stones for- 
 merly surrounded it, as was the case 
 with other cromlechs in Wales and 
 Cornwall. The 3 parishes of Mor- 
 vah, Madron, and St. Just, meet 
 here. 
 
 At Old Bosullow , N. of the castle, 
 on the slope of the hill, are some 
 remains of a British village, similar 
 in construction, but perhaps less per- 
 fect than those at Chysawster. An 
 ancient road leads from them to the 
 castle. The side of the hill and the 
 plain below are covered with small 
 barrows. 
 
 At Bodennar, about f m. S.E. of 
 Chun Castle, is a single dwelling 
 called the Crellas (a corruption, it 
 has been suggested, of Cryglas, a 
 
 green hillock,” from its appearance, 
 covered with turf and furze), which 
 is worth notice. It consists of 2 
 circles, formed by rough strong walls, 
 the larger circle (40 ft. from N. to 
 S.) opening into the smaller (21 ft. 
 from N. to S.) by a passage, 6 ft. 
 wide, between 2 large slabs. The 
 larger circle has 2 concentric walls, 
 the space between which has been 
 divided at intervals by traverse walls, 
 one of whicli remains. Above the 
 higher circle is a large green ter- 
 race. 
 
 Returning to the carriage, we de- 
 scend the hill eastwards, till we come 
 to a small stream, which crosses the 
 
450 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. II. 
 
 road j ust W. of Lanyon farm. Hence 
 a track to tlie 1. across Ancjuidal Doivn 
 leads to the Men-an-tol , or Holed 
 Stone , one of 3 stones which are dis- 
 posed in a straight line. It is known 
 locally as the “Crick Stone:” it 
 being supposed that, if a person af- 
 flicted with a crick in the back 
 crawls 9 times through the hole, 
 and sleeps with a sixpence under his 
 pillow he will be cured. The Tol- 
 men, now destroyed, in Constantine 
 parish, possessed the same charm, if 
 the ceremony were performed on 
 Easter-day. Of the 3 stones the 
 centre one is 4 ft. in diameter, and 
 1 thick : the hole itself is 1 ft. 3 in. 
 in diameter. The stones are easily 
 found, as no other upright stones are 
 in the same croft. They lie nearly 
 in a straight line between Lanyon 
 farm-house and the western peak of 
 Cam Galva, about \ m. W. of the 
 stream, which crosses the road, and 
 J m. in from it. 
 
 Men Scryffen , or Screpha , the Writ- 
 ten Stone , lies in a croft under 
 Cam Galva, and Gwn men Screpha, 
 the Down of the Written Stone , about 
 1 m. N.E. of Lanyon. It is one of 
 the most ancient sepulchral monu- 
 ments in Cornwall, supposed to date 
 from a period antecedent to the de- 
 parture of the Romans from the 
 country. It is about 8 ft. in length, 
 and bears the inscription “ Rialobran 
 Cunoval Fil.” It is stated by Mr. 
 Lhuyd, whose researches formed the 
 basis of Pryce’s Cornish Dictionary, 
 that the reading in British would be 
 llhiwcdlivran map Kiynwal , and that 
 such names are not uncommon in 
 old Welsh pedigrees. He also re- 
 marks that the neighbouring parish 
 of Gulval is probably called after this 
 Kynwal , as he has found many such 
 instances in Wales. The Men Scryf- 
 fen for a long time lay prostrate on 
 the moor, and was thrown down by 
 a miner digging for treasure, who 
 nearly lost his life by the fall of the 
 huge mass. It has (1862) been 
 
 raised, and is now a conspicuous ob- 
 ject. The inscription can be easily 
 read. 
 
 Between Men Scryffen and Ding 
 Dong mine is Boshednan Circle , or 
 the Nine Maidens , a ring of stones, j 
 similar to those of Dawns Men < 
 and Boscawen rose. The diameter j 
 is 72 ft. 6 stones stand erect, and i 
 one is nearly 8 ft. in height. 5 lie ! 
 prostrate. The eye ranges over a 
 vast extent of uncultivated country, 
 and to the blue expanse of ocean. 
 Directly N. rise the magnificent 
 rocks of Carn Galva ; to the S. is the 
 mine of Ding Dong; to the E. is 
 seen Mulfra Quoit on the crown of a 
 barren height, some 2 m. away. 
 
 It must be remembered that to go 
 to these two last objects and return 
 will entail a walk of from 2 to 3 m. 
 over rough ground. After leaving 
 the holed stone it is perhaps better 
 to make inquiries as to the position 
 of the Men Scryffen at a solitary 
 house between the holed stone and 
 Carn Galva. The house rejoices in 
 the name of “Four Parishes,” as 
 Madron, Gulval, Morvah, and Zen- 
 nor, meet there. Returning from 
 Boskednan circle, and taking Lanyon 
 for a landmark, it is better to come 
 out at the top of the hill just E. of 
 Lanyon, the carriage having been ] 
 ordered to come there. 
 
 Here on the moor of Boswavas is 
 the celebrated Lanyon Quoit (La- 
 nyon is said to signify the “furzy 
 enclosure,” or perhaps the enclosure ! 
 of the Ash-tree , which is on in Com- j 
 ish), a most lonely old monument, j 
 the effect of which is much enhanced 
 by the wildness of the country. It 
 is sometimes called the Giant's Quoit , ’ 
 and consists of a large table-stone .j i 
 47 ft. in girth, 18J in length, by 9 
 in width, pointing nearly N. and S., : 
 and supported by 3 rude pillars, ■ 
 which are inclined from the perpen- \ 
 dicular. This stone, which is raised j 
 about 5 ft. from the ground, wns 
 upset somo years ago, one of its sup- 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — St. Just. 
 
 451 
 
 porters being split by lightning, but 
 t was shortly afterwards replaced 
 by means of the machinery which 
 restored the Logan rock to its 
 position. At all times this cromlech 
 is grand and impressive : but it 
 appears to the greatest advantage 
 when looming from the sea-mist 
 which so often envelops this part of 
 the country. There is another 
 cromlech in a field, J m. W. of 
 Lanyon farm-house, nearly as large 
 as the one described, and known as 
 “West Lanyon Quoit.” It had 
 apparently 4 supporters, only one of 
 which remains ; and the table-stone 
 which is 13 ft. 10 in. long, rests with 
 one edge on this solitary supporter, 
 and the other buried in the ground. 
 This cromlech was found in 1790 
 within a great tumulus of earth and 
 stones, after nearly 100 cartloads had 
 been removed. 
 
 1 m. a cart-track to the 1. leads to 
 Ding Dong mine, one of the oldest 
 ;in mines in the county : from this 
 corner there is a fine view over 
 Mount’s Bay. The road presently 
 passes through the plantations be- 
 longing to Trengwainton (T. S. 
 Bolitho, Esq.), formerly the seat of 
 the late Sir Rose Price, Bart. 
 
 Observe the luxuriant undergrowth 
 )f rhododendrons. At the end of the 
 plantation a gate rt. leads from the 
 oad to Trengwainton Cairn , a rough 
 )ile of rocks from which there is a 
 ^rand view of Mount's Bay. It is 
 )opularly known as “ Bulks View,” 
 •robably a corruption of “ Belle 
 V r ue.” Near the footpath, 100 yds. 
 VV. of the gate, there is an old cross. 
 
 J a cart-track leads to Madron well 
 •nd Baptistery in a croft J m. E. of 
 \ he road. See Rte. 27. 
 
 - i St. Madron Church town (see 
 ite. 27). Observe the view from 
 
 I he churchyard, and the fine old 
 ross near the gate. The enormous 
 tone edifice in the churchyard is 
 : be mausoleum of the Price family. 
 
 li Penzance. 
 
 Good walkers are strongly recom- 
 mended on leaving Gurnard’s Head 
 to ascend Carn Galva, and crossing it 
 to visit the Men Scryffen , Boshednan 
 Circle , Lanyon Quoit , and the Men 
 an tol, or holed stone, all described 
 above. Coming out into the road 
 followed above, near Lanyon, they 
 can either return as described above 
 (in which case the holed stone had 
 better be visited before Lanyon 
 Quoit), or, prolonging their walk, 
 visit Chun Castle. A farm marked 
 on the Ordnance map as Great 
 Bosollow, lies immediately at the E. 
 foot of the hill, on which Chun 
 stands ; from hence a capital foot- 
 path leads through various crofts, 
 and across Trengwainton Cairn to 
 Madron. The distances for a pedes- 
 trian would be approximately : Pen- 
 zance to Gurnard’s Head, 7 m. direct ; 
 Gurnard’s Head to Lanyon, over 
 Carn Galva, 4 m. ; Lanyon to Chun, 
 1J m. ; Chun to Penzance, 6 m. 
 Carn Galva is the finest hill in the 
 Land’s End district, being literally 
 covered with granite, which crests 
 it in a very beautiful manner. Mr. 
 Blight (‘Week at the Land’s End,’ 
 p. 21) states that “ there is a logan 
 stone near the summit of the most 
 westerly crag of the range, easily got 
 at, and easily moved.” “ The bo- 
 tanist may find here Polypodium plie- 
 gopteris , Hymenophyllum Wilsoni and 
 Tunbridgense t and Sticta crocata .” — 
 Ibid. 
 
 4. Penzance to St. Just , Cape Corn- 
 wall , Botallach Mine , &c., by 
 Sancreed, returning to Newbridge. 
 
 The direct road to St. Just by 
 Newbridge is about 7 m. There is 
 little of interest on this road. The 
 road by Saner eed is longer and more 
 hilly, but possesses more interest, 
 passing as it does through Sancreed 
 church-town, and near Caer Bran . 
 For the first 3 m. from Penzance we 
 follow the Land’s End road as far as 
 
452 
 
 Sect. II 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : 
 
 the village of Driff (for description 
 see succeeding Excursion). At Driff 
 our road turns away to the rt. and in 
 about 1J m. reaches. 
 
 Sancreed, a picturesque little Church 
 (late loth centy., of no architectural 
 interest) surrounded by trees. In 
 the vestry are some panels of the 
 old roodscreen, curious, though not 
 very early. Observe a cross on the 
 churchyard- wall near the gate ; and 
 a still finer one 7 ft. high in the 
 churchyard itself, having on it among 
 other emblems the lily of the Virgin, 
 a rare emblem on these crosses. The 
 dedication of this ch. is uncertain 
 (perhaps Sancreed is equivalent to 
 St. Faith). The road ascends soon 
 after leaving the village, passing be- 
 tween Sancreed Beacon on rt., and 
 
 1 m. W. of the village, Caer Bran 
 on 1. The summit of this hill is 
 crowned with the remains of an old 
 castle, Caer Bran Castle , or Bound , 
 similar to that at Chun. (Caer 
 Bran in North Wales means “ Crow’s 
 Castle.” It may, however, also sig- 
 nify “ King’s Castle.” Bran is Celtic 
 for king or chief; hence the name 
 Brennus, which occurs so frequently.) 
 The castle “ consisted of a stone wall 
 about 12 ft. thick; 2 ditches and an 
 earthen embankment ; and a circular 
 building of stone appears to have 
 stood in the centre. It is now little 
 more than a heap of ruins, though 
 its circular form may be distinctly 
 traced.” — Blight. (On a rock beside 
 an ancient roadway leading to a 
 group of strongly fortified hut circles 
 on the tenement of Goldherring in 
 Sancreed, Mr. Blight has discovered 
 some cup markings such as have 
 been found elsewhere, especially in 
 the N. of England and in Scotland, 
 and have been described by the late 
 Sir J. Simpson.) 
 
 At the bottom of the hill on the 
 western side are the remains of an 
 old paved road. “ Near Cairn Uny , 
 close at hand, is a curious subter- 
 ranean gallery, walled on the sides, 
 
 and covered with flat slabs of granite ; 
 it is partly fallen in, and cannot 
 easily be entered.” — Blight This is 
 one of the remarkable caves of which 
 the chambers at Trelowarren (Rte. 
 28), and the “Fogou” at Treewoofe 
 (see Exc. 6), are the most perfect 
 examples. The Cairn Uny Cave was 
 opened by a miner about the year 
 1860, who asserted that the floor 
 “ was well paved with large granite 
 blocks, beneath which, in the centre, 
 ran a narrow gutter or bolt, made, 
 
 I imagine, for admitting the air in- 
 to the inmost part of the building,, 
 from whence, after flowing back 
 through the cave, it escaped by the 
 cave’s mouth — a mode of ventilation 
 practised immemorial] y by the miners 
 in this neighbourhood, when driving 
 adits, or horizontal galleries, under 
 ground.” — Edmonds's 1 Land's End 
 District.' The higher end of the 
 cave consisted of a circular floor 
 12 ft. in diam., covered with an over- 
 lapping roof or “ bee hive” of granite. I 
 Between this hill and Chapel Carn| 
 Bre is another curious relic, namely. | 
 the ruins of a Baptistery dedicated! 
 to St. Euinus, and known by the! 
 name of Chapel Uny. It stands near! 
 a well, to the waters of which arc I 
 attributed many wonderful qualities! 
 No portions of the baptistery walk! 
 are standing; it is far less perfect! 
 than Madron chapel, a building pro- i 
 bably of the same nature. St. Unyj | 
 seems to have been an important J| 
 saint in this country. Lelant and * 
 Redruth churches are dedicated to' z 
 him. N.W. of the chapel is 
 
 The hill of Bartine' (usually trans-j X 
 lated the hill of fires, but query ?) alt. 
 689 ft., the highest eminence in the > ii. 
 vicinity of the Land’s End. The $ 
 hill across the hollow to the S.W. is , h 
 Chapel Cam Bre. This, perhaps 1 
 is more easily ascended from thegfl 
 Land’s End road. One of these < 1 
 hills, however, should be climbee I ( 
 for the sake of the prospect, whicl i I 
 from the small girth of this part ol j 
 the peninsula, includes a wonderful 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — St. Just. 
 
 453 
 
 expanse of water. Three seas roll 
 in sight, and the eye ranging round 
 28 points of the compass, reposes 
 during the interval on their azure 
 surface. The chapel which crowned 
 the hill of Carn Bre has disappeared 
 entirely. The mining field of St. 
 Just, and the rough hill of Carn 
 Kenidjack (alt. 640 ft.) to the N., 
 present a dreary scene. From Chapel 
 Carn Bre, Mount’s Bay (E.) assumes 
 the appearance of a lake, in which 
 St. Michael’s Mount is an island. 
 On a clear day Scilly (W.) is per- 
 haps better seen from these heights 
 than from the Land’s End itself. 
 
 Returning to the road, from which 
 we have strayed too far, we pass on 
 rt. Bostrea, a farm of about 500 
 acres, converted by Col. Scobell, of 
 Nancealverne, from a howling wil- 
 derness into smiling pastures. De- 
 scending the hill, we have a glorious 
 expanse of sea before us. 
 
 Rt. is Ballesividden Mine , one of 
 the largest tin mines in Cornwall. 
 
 1J St. Just Church-toum (in Pen- 
 witli)—ihe Church is dedicated to St. 
 Justus, the companion of Augustine 
 — (Commercial Inn.) (pop. of parish, 
 S290). Omnibuses to and from Pen- 
 zance daily ; generally leaving St. 
 Just in the morning, and Penzance 
 in the afternoon. The ch. is a 16th- 
 centy. building on the foundation 
 of an earlier one. The sculptured 
 caps of the piers and the E. windows 
 of the aisles should be noticed. The 
 chancel was rebuilt in 1834. A cross 
 found in an old chapel on Cape 
 Cornwall was placed in it by the 
 then vicar, the Rev. J. Buller. There 
 is also a monumental stone with the 
 inscription, « SILYS HIC IACET,” 
 found during the rebuilding, and 
 placed in the ch. Who this Silus 
 was is not known ; the question is 
 discussed with a full account of the 
 ‘ Church and Parish of St. Just,’ by 
 the late Rev. J. Buller, who pub- 
 lished a book under that title. Fur- 
 ther repairs in 1865 brought to light 
 
 some mural paintings, one of which 
 seems to have represented St. George 
 and the dragon, when perfect. Many 
 pieces of ancient coloured glass, 
 roughly chipped, and not cut with 
 a diamond, were found, as also a 
 gold ring with the letter P, and part 
 of a floriated cross of copper. In the 
 village near the Commercial Inn are 
 the remains of an amphitheatre or 
 round , “ plane an guary ,” a “ playing 
 place,” 126 ft. in diameter, origin- 
 ally with 6 tiers of stone steps, and 
 till lately the scene of wrestling 
 matches on Easter and Whit Mon- 
 days and Tuesdays. There are now 
 no remains of the steps, and the 
 amphitheatre itself is much filled 
 up. It was here that “ miracle 
 plays” were performed in Cornish 
 (see Introd.) “ The bare granite 
 plain of St. Just, in view of Cape 
 Cornwall, and of the transparent sea 
 which beats against that magnificent 
 headland, would be a fit theatre for 
 the exhibition of what in those days 
 of simplicity would appear a serious 
 presentation of the general history of 
 the Creation, the Fall, and the Re- 
 demption of man, however it might 
 be marred occasionally by passages 
 of lighter or even of ludicrous cha- 
 racter. The mighty gathering of 
 people from many miles round, 
 hardly showing like a crowd in that 
 extended region, where nothing ever 
 grows to limit the view on any side, 
 with their booths or tents, absolutely 
 necessary when so many people had 
 to remain three days on the spot, 
 would give a character to the assem- 
 bly probably more like what we hear 
 of the so-called religious revivals in 
 America, than of anything witnessed 
 in more sober Europe.” — Norris s 
 ‘ Ancient Cornish Drama ,’ ii., p. 
 466. The great surviving relic of 
 such performances — the miracle play 
 at Ammergau — should also be com- 
 pared. N.E. of St. Just is Carn 
 Kenidjack , a hill with a remarkable 
 pile of rocks on it, and directly S. of 
 it a stone circle called the Merry 
 
454 
 
 Sect. II 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : 
 
 Maidens , about 72 ft. in diameter, 
 consisting at present of 15 stones — 
 10 erect and 5 fallen. 
 
 Cape Cornwall is about 1 m. W. of 
 St. Just. A footpath leads to it. The 
 junction of the granite and slate here 
 may be seen very well (see Gurnard’s 
 Head), especially on the beach to the 
 N. E. in Porthleden Cove, below 
 Boswedden Mine. On the isthmus 
 connecting the cape with the land 
 the ruins of an ancient chapel called 
 St. Helen’s Oratory are still to be 
 seen in a field called Parc-an-chapel. 
 From the top of the cape there is a 
 fine view to the southward of the 
 cliffs as far as the Land’s End (for 
 names, &c., see Land’s End Excur- 
 sion). At the very point is the old 
 engine-house now disused, once be- 
 longing to Little Bounds, a sub- 
 marine mine. In part of these works, 
 significantly called SavealVs Lode, 
 the avarice of the miner has actu- 
 ally opened a communication with 
 the sea, and the breach, which is 
 covered every tide, is protected by a 
 platform caulked like the deck of a 
 ship. The noise of the waves is 
 distinctly heard in every part of the 
 mine. In the 40-fath. level a curious 
 crop of stalactites (specimens of 
 which may be seen in the museum 
 at Penzance) has been formed by 
 the dripping of the water through 
 the roof of the mine. The Brisons, 
 or the Sisters, two dangerous rocks 
 between 60 and 70 ft. in height, are 
 situated about a mile off this head- 
 land. A reef nearer the shore is 
 called the Bridges. Car rich c/loose 
 
 Head (the Hoar Pock), immediately 
 S. of Cape Cornwall, should be visi- 
 ted, as it commands a most interest- 
 ing view of the coast. In Pornanvon 
 Cove, just S. of it, is a fine example 
 of a raised leacli, 15 ft. above high- 
 water mark. In the stormy winter 
 of 1850-51 the Brisons were the 
 scene of a remarkable shipwreck. 
 Before daybreak of the 11th of Jan., 
 during a gale from the S.W., the 
 
 brig 4 New Commercial,’ bound fron 
 Liverpool to the Spanish Main 
 struck upon a ledge of rocks betweei 
 the Great and Little Brison, and 
 as the sea ran very high, wen - 
 speedily to pieces. The crew, con 
 sisting of nine men, with one woman 
 the wife of the master, succeeded 
 in landing upon the ledge ; but th< 
 tide was rising, and their positioi 
 became momentarily more perilous 
 At length a tremendous wave broke 
 amongst them ; the whole party were 
 swept into the sea, and seven out ol 
 the ten sank at once to rise no more 
 Of the remaining three, one, a mu-B 
 latto, reached a portion of the float-B 
 ing wreck, and by using a plank foifi 
 a paddle, and a rag of canvas for cB 
 sail, contrived to keep clear of tiufl 
 broken water, and was eventually || 
 rescued by the Sennen fishermen 
 The other two, the master and hi® 
 wife, were washed upon the Little® 
 Brison, where they gained a footing® 
 and climbed above the reach of the Iff 
 waves. Whilst these poor people® 
 were thus struggling for their lives fl 
 efforts were being made for then ® 
 rescue. Her Majesty’s cutter ‘ Syl 
 via’ was working gallantly round* 
 Land’s End, and soon her boat wad$ 
 lowered, and a most dangerous at- 
 tempt made to approach the Brisonslf 
 but the sea was so terrific, it wa& 
 found impossible to get near them ii 
 and the night soon closed in wet 
 and stormy. When day dawned on 
 the morrow, the man and his wife' 1 
 were still seen upon the rock ; and 
 as the wind had slightly abated and 
 changed in direction, another at- 1 
 tempt was made for their rescue.' 
 Captain Davies, the officer of the 
 coast-guard, provided a number oil 
 rockets, and, in company with other,' - 
 boats, pushed gallantly from the j 
 shore ; but it was found impracti- ; f 
 cable to approach the fatal spot i 
 within 100 yds. The rockets, how- 
 ever, were promptly discharged, and 
 at length a line fell in the desired | 
 direction across the Brison. Tliej f 
 
455 
 
 Cornwall. Route 29. — Cape Cornwall; Botallack Mine. 
 
 man tied it round the waist of his 
 wife, and after some hesitation she 
 plnnged into the sea, whilst a suc- 
 cession of heavy breakers rolled over 
 the rocks, perilling the safety of all. 
 The rope was, however, drawn 
 speedily into the boat ; but the 
 unfortunate woman, although she 
 breathed when taken from the water, 
 shortly afterwards expired. The 
 man had sufficient strength to sur- 
 vive the immersion ; he was dragged 
 into one of the other boats, and, 
 though greatly exhausted, finally 
 recovered. 
 
 Botallack Mine , about 15 m. from 
 St. Ives, and 2 from St. Just, lies 
 1J m. N.N.E. of Cape Cornwall. It 
 is an interesting walk for those who 
 are not afraid of a scramble through 
 the busy scene of Boswedden Mine , 
 and up the steep ascent of Kenidjack 
 Castle. Here some remains of an 
 old fortification may still be traced ; 
 and at the Bunny Cliffs, a little S. 
 of Botallack, some u old men's work- 
 ings” as what are supposed to be 
 the surface-works of the ancient 
 miners are generally called. 
 
 On the next headland is Botallack 
 Mine (tin and copper). The tra- 
 veller, having reached the main 
 object of his excursion, must betake 
 himself to the cliff, and rest awhile 
 in admiration of the scene which is 
 there unfolded, and which exhibits 
 one of the most singular combina- 
 tions of the power of art and the 
 sublimity of nature that can be 
 imagined. Gloomy precipices of 
 slate, which have successfully defied 
 the ocean itself, are here broken up 
 by the operations of the miner, and 
 are hung with all his complicated 
 machinery. The Crown Engine , well 
 known for the wild exposure of its 
 position, was lowered down a cliff 
 of 200 ft. to the ledge it now occu- 
 pies, for the purpose of enabling the 
 miner to penetrate beneath the bed of 
 the Atlantic. The first level of this 
 mine is 70 fath. from “grass,” and 
 
 extends upwards of 400 ft. under 
 the sea, and the traveller who should 
 venture to descend into its dreary 
 recesses may be gratified by hearing 
 the booming of the waves and the 
 grating of the stones as they are 
 rolled to and fro over his head. The 
 lode, consisting of the grey and 
 yellow sulphuret of copper, crops out 
 in the Crown Bocks below the engine. 
 The cliffs are composed of horn- 
 blende alternating with clay-slate, 
 and contain a store of curious mine- 
 rals, as jasper, jaspery iron-ore, arse- 
 niate of iron, sulphuret of bismuth, 
 peach-blossomed cobalt, specular 
 iron-ore, hsematitic iron, hydrous 
 oxide of iron, veins of garnet rock 
 (in the Crown Rocks), epidote, 
 axinite, thallite, chlorite, tremolite, 
 and a crystallised schorl. Beautiful 
 specimens of arborescent native 
 copper have been also found in them. 
 There is now a large “diagonal 
 shaft ” or inclined plane called Bos- 
 cawen shaft, which runs from just 
 above the water’s edge in an oblique 
 direction out under the sea. By this 
 means the mine is now worked at 
 a cheaper rate, and is much better 
 ventilated. Boscawen shaft was com- 
 menced in May, 1858, under the 
 following circumstances : — A year 
 or two previous, on driving the 185- 
 fath. level N. of Wheal Button shaft, 
 and about 300 fath. distant from it, 
 the entire length of the level being 
 under the sea, a vein of copper was 
 discovered, which, from its dip cor- 
 responding with the deposit they 
 were then working on, and the simi- 
 larity of the strata, led the agents to 
 suppose that they were on the head 
 of another rich bunch of copper. 
 They in a true miner-like manner 
 commenced probing the ground, and 
 having satisfied themselves, they, at 
 a meeting of the adventurers, held 
 on the 20th April, 1858, made the 
 following remarks in their report : — 
 “We now suggest the propriety of 
 sinking a diagonal shaft from sur- 
 face so as to reach the present end 
 
456 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. II. 
 
 180-fath. level. The shaft would 
 have to be carried about 35 deg. 
 from the horizontal line, and the 
 distance will be about 360 fath. 
 This we think can be done in as 
 little time and less expense than 
 sinking the present shaft, driving 
 the level, and sinking wings for ven- 
 tilation .” This report was adopted, 
 and the shaft forthwith was com- 
 menced, and from 20 to 50 men were 
 employed in rising and sinking from 
 the different levels to communicate 
 the shaft from that time to the 22nd 
 of March, 1862, on which day the 
 first tram-waggon laden with copper 
 ore was drawn to the surface. This 
 shaft is carried 8 ft. wide by 6 ft. in 
 height, and although in some places 
 it is very crooked and the angles 
 very sharp, yet the same underlay 
 of 35 deg. is continued throughout. 
 The rails are laid on the most ap- 
 proved principle, and little or no 
 motion is felt in ascending or de- 
 scending in the waggon, which is 
 capable of holding 6 or 8 men with 
 comfort, and jjwill hold nearly a ton 
 of ore. The present length of the 
 shaft is over 400 fath., or nearly J a 
 mile ; and, although it has not been 
 driven through much solid ground, 
 its cost has been estimated at 10?. 
 per fath., or 4000?. Apart from the 
 difficulties of sinking the shaft were 
 the removing of the 24-in. cylinder 
 engine, and building the house for 
 its reception. Those who, some 
 years ago, witnessed the lowering 
 of the machine over the face of the 
 rugged cliff, 150 ft. high, left with 
 an impression that it could never 
 again be removed ; but a few months 
 ago many who thus thought saw 
 the huge boiler and beams drawn 
 to the very top of the cliff, and again 
 relowered to its new resting-place. 
 It is a great satisfaction to know 
 that throughout the whole of this 
 great undertaking, either at the sur- 
 face with the machinery or in the 
 shaft, not a single accident has 
 happened. Botallack Mine was visi- 
 
 ted by the Prince and Princess of 
 Wales in July 1865. 
 
 1 m. The Levant Mine , another of 
 the submarine mines : The levels : 
 run under the sea for a distance of 
 40 fath., and to a point at which the 
 roof is calculated to be not more 
 than 1 0 ft. in thickness. To return 
 from hence to Penzance by the road 
 is nearly 3 m. 
 
 2 m. Pendeen Cove . The objects 
 of curiosity here are the granite 
 veins penetrating the slate at the 
 junctions of the two formations as we 
 have seen at Cape Cornwall and the 
 Gurnard’s Head; and in a garden • 
 at the village of Pendeen a cave or 
 excavation called Pendeen Van , con- < 
 sisting of 3 passages, the two end 
 ones branching off from the outer- • 
 most. The sides incline inwards, • 
 and the cave is closed at the top 
 with flat stones. The outer passage i 
 only can be explored at present. ] 
 The others are closed by fallen I? 
 stones. Such caves may have been < 
 places of concealment during the Ij 
 British period, but by whom theyjfj 
 were first constructed is quite un- 
 certain. (See a longer notice of them] ii 
 in Rte. 28, Trelowarren, and in Exc. 33 
 6 — the cave at Treewoofe.) Thelf 
 old seat of Pendeen was the birth- 
 place of Dr. Borlase , the antiquary. 
 The house is now used as a farm-, r, 
 house; the family (in whose pos-, 
 session, however, it still is) having, 
 moved inland to Castle Horneck. 
 
 The traveller had better order his 
 carriage to meet him at Pendeen vil- 
 lage; he can then return to Pen-1 
 zance by the Morvah and Penzance] 
 road (see Excursion 3), or by the 
 direct Pendeen and Penzance road, 
 a distance of about 8 m. Ascending! 
 the hill we pass on rt. Cam Kenid •] 
 jack, with its curious pile of rocks 1 
 The plain below is the “ Gump ’ v> 
 (Corn. — a level tract). Just beyonc, 
 the summit we enter the direct St 
 Just and Penzance road, about 4 in 
 from Penzance. Descending th< 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29. — Land’s End . 
 
 457 
 
 hill, 200 yds. rt. is a rude-stone 
 circle (called Tregeseal Circle or the 
 Nine Maidens) on the moor ; and a 
 furlong N.E. of the circle are two 
 caves called “ Giants’ Graves,” which 
 may reward examination. At the 
 bottom of the hill we pass the vil- 
 lage of Newbridge. [A road here 
 branches olf to the rt. ; and about 
 J m. beyond the junction is the vil- 
 lage of Truen , on the hill above 
 which is a “ round ” or circular en- 
 closure, about 125 ft. diameter. 
 “Near its centre a circular pave- 
 ment of broad unhewn granite slabs, 
 with small stones in the interstices, 
 and about 10 ft. diameter, was dis- 
 covered in 1845, and a few feet from 
 it the upper and nether stones of a 
 handmill.” — Edmonds's 1 Land's End 
 District.'] Hence, with the excep- 
 tion of fine views of Mount’s Bay, 
 there is nothing of interest to Pen- 
 zance. 
 
 2J Treenethack Cross on rt. ; the 
 clump of trees on 1. is Lesingey 
 Bound , an old fortification. Below 
 us on rt. is Trereiffe (D. P. Le 
 Grice, Esq.) 
 
 J m. the Land’s End-road is 
 joined. 
 
 Penzance. 
 
 It is thought that it will hardly 
 be desired to explore the coast south- 
 ward, between Cape Cornwall and 
 the Land’s End in this excursion, 
 especially if Botallack shall have 
 been descended. If, however, the 
 traveller should return to St. Just, 
 and desire to do so, he will find the 
 names of the headlands, &c., given 
 in the succeeding excursion. A good 
 road also leads from St. Just to the 
 Land’s End ; and if the traveller 
 desires to see the intervening 
 country, he can return to Penzance 
 .by this way. It is, however, the 
 least interesting part of the district, 
 and will not repay the trouble of 
 ?oing 4 extra m. The road joins 
 he Penzance and Land’s End-road 
 ibout 7 m. from Penzance. 
 
 [Dev. fy Corn.] 
 
 5. Penzance to the Land's End , re- 
 turning by the Logan Boclc and 
 
 Buryan. 
 
 We venture to suggest, that it is 
 better to go direct to the Land’s 
 End first. It is more probable that 
 Scilly will be visible in the morning 
 than with the afternoon sun in your 
 eyes. 
 
 The Land’s End is 10 m. from 
 Penzance, the first 4 m. hilly. The 
 miles are reckoned from Penzance. 
 Leaving Penzance by the western 
 entrance, we pass on rt. Castle 
 Horneck , John Borlase, Esq. ; at the 
 top of the hill rt. the direct road to 
 St. Just turns off. Among the trees 
 on rt. stands 
 
 1 m. Trereiffe (pronounced Treeve ), 
 D. P. Le. Grice, Esq. The house is 
 covered with a yew-tree, which has 
 been trained all over it. Observe 
 the 4 avenues at the junction of the 
 4 roads. The hedge by the road 
 side is the habitat of several rare 
 ferns, and of the Sibthorpia Europsea , 
 a small plant found only, we believe, 
 in Cornwall and Brittany, and in 
 the S.W. of Spain. It was discovered 
 and named by Bay about the year 
 1675. Asplenium lanceolatum, a rare 
 fern out of this country, may be 
 found in almost every hedge near 
 Penzance. 
 
 1 J m. Buryas Bridge. Beyond, rt., 
 is Trewidden , E. Bolitho, Esq. Op- 
 posite the lodge an old cross. 
 
 2.^ m. The village of Driff; on 
 rt. the road to Sancreed (see Excur- 
 sion 4); on 1. a road leading to 
 Paul, and Lamorna Cove ; places, 
 however, which are more accessible 
 from Penzance by the S. road. Be- 
 yond Driff, in a field on 1., are some 
 upright stones, the remains of an 
 ancient circle. 
 
 3J m. The road 1. leads to Buryan, 
 by which place we propose to re- 
 turn. 
 
 4 m. The road ascends Tregonebris 
 Hill , remarkable for its musical 
 name. On rt. a large upright stone ; 
 
 x 
 
458 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance: 
 
 on 1., at top of the hill, the Nine 
 Maidens , a celebrated rude-stone 
 circle on the farm of Boscaicen-Un. 
 The original number of stones is 
 uncertain. It is 81 ft. in diam. ; and 
 there are now 19 stones, 3 of which 
 are prostrate. There is one upright, 
 
 8 ft. 6 in. high, in the middle of the 
 circle. A Welsh triad ranks “ Beis- 
 cawen in Danmonium” among the 
 three “ Gorsedds (places of judgment) 
 of poetry ” in Britain ; and this Bos- 
 cawen has been pointed out as the 
 place meant. (Boscawen signifies 
 the “ dwelling by the elder-trees”) 
 The circle is, however, probably se- 
 pulchral. 
 
 5J m. Crows an ura (the Cross by 
 the wayside ). Kt. a road to St. Just, 
 
 1. to Buryan; rt. are the hills of 
 Bartinne and Chapel Carn Bre. (See 
 previous Excursion.) The latter is 
 more accessible from this road than 
 from Sancreed. 
 
 7 m. Quakers’ Burial-ground , now 
 disused. Observe a curious tomb to 
 Phillis Ellis, 1677. We have now a 
 magnificent sea-view before us, and 
 rapidly descend to 
 
 9 m. St. Semen Church-town , 387 
 ft. above the sea. The Inn: the 
 “ first and last ” inn in England is 
 the first object that catches one’s 
 attention, being “the first” on 
 coming from the W., and “ the last ” 
 from the E. The proprietor has 
 built another hotel, called the 
 “Land’s End or Point Hotel,” on 
 the Land’s End itself, where very 
 tolerable accommodation can be pro- 
 cured. It is, however, only open in 
 summer, and is frequently full. 
 
 St. Sennen Church is a small 
 weather-beaten building, calling for 
 no special remark. (It is Perp., and 
 contains a mutilated figure of the 
 Blessed Virgin ; the font has a mu- 
 tilated inscription recording the dedi- 
 cation of the ch. on the day of the 
 decollation of St. John Baptist (Aug. 
 29), 1414.) In the village just E. 
 of the ch. is a large stone, on which 
 
 7 Saxon kings, about the year 600, 
 are reported to have dined. Merlin, 
 says the local tradition, prophesied 
 that many more kings shall one day 
 dine here, and that great troubles 
 shall follow. 
 
 10 m. Land’s End, Pedn an Laaz t > 
 the Furthest Land — the “ Penwith- 
 steort,” or “ Penwithstart,” of the 
 Sax. Chron. (i.e. the “ start” (Sax.) 
 or “ end” of Penwith, as the hun- 
 dred is still called. Penwith (Celt), 
 signifies the “chief headland”), the 
 Bolerium of the ancients, and the 
 most westerly point of England, is 
 wholly composed of granite, darkened 
 by the spray of the sea and the 
 mists driven past it from the Atlantic. 
 Its extreme point, which is pierced 
 by a natural tunnel, is not above 
 60 ft. in height, but the cliffs rise! 
 on either hand to a much greatei; 
 elevation, and below them, in gloomy 
 recesses, lie huge rocks, roundec j 
 like pebbles aud eternally buffeted 
 and the mouths of caverns in whicl j 
 the voice of the sea is never hushed I 
 The view from so commanding i , 
 point necessarily includes an ex 
 panse of ocean which, when th- 
 winds are abroad, presents a spec ] 
 tacle of grandeur which is trul; 
 sublime. The line of coast, as seei i 
 from this promontory, terminates N-J 
 with Cape Cornivall (alt. 230 ft.' 
 and between that point and th 
 Land’s End is indented by White j 
 sand Bay , which affords a shelter t J 
 vessels when the winds are advert 
 in the Channel. It is said that tli 
 bay was the landing-place of Athe 
 stan after his conquest of Scilly, < ? 
 King Stephen in 1135, of King Job ■ 
 when he returned from Ireland, an ■; 
 of Perkin Warbeck in his final a. i 
 tempt upon the crown in 1497. Son j 1 
 rare microscopic shells are to I s 
 found upon its sands, and on ill 
 western side, near Sennen Cove, j I 
 patch of slate enters the granit j 
 Under the point of the Land’s Ei 1 
 is the Tele (a spire) Bock; out 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 Route 29 . — St Sennen. 
 
 459 
 
 sea N.N.W. the Shark’s Fin ; to the 
 S. the Armed Knight , cased in solid 
 stone; and on the profile of Carn 
 Kez Dr. Johnson’s Head , a very 
 whimsical resemblance, even to the 
 wig. 1J m. W. from the shore the 
 Longships Lighthouse rises from a 
 cluster of rocks. It was erected in 
 1793 by a Mr. Smith, whose enter- 
 prise was rewarded by a toll to be 
 levied upon shipping for a limited 
 number of years. It is now under 
 the jurisdiction of the Trinity House. 
 The tower is built of granite, and 
 the stones are trenailed in a similar 
 manner to those of the Eddystone 
 Lighthouse. The circumf. of the 
 structure at the base is 68 ft., the 
 height from the rock to the vane of 
 the lantern 52 ft., and from the sea 
 to the foot of the building 71 ft., and 
 yet the lantern has been frequently 
 shivered by the waves. The patch 
 of slate which runs out from Sennen 
 Cove constitutes the rock upon which 
 the lighthouse stands, the rest of the 
 cluster consisting of granite. At the 
 edge of the precipice to the 1. of the 
 Land’s End the mark of a horse- 
 shoe imprinted on the turf was long 
 cleared out from time to time to 
 perpetuate the memory of a frightful 
 incident which occurred on the spot. 
 The late Gen. Sir B. Armstrong, 
 then a young man, led his horse 
 down, along with two companions, 
 thinking it too dangerous to ride; 
 on their return he mounted, but the 
 girths getting loose the animal be- 
 gan to kick and plunge, and backed 
 towards the cliff. The rider dis- 
 mounted when not more than 4 ft. 
 from the edge ; the horse rolled over 
 the cliff and was dashed to pieces. 
 The story usually told, that the at- 
 tempt to ride to the extreme point 
 of the Land’s End was made for a 
 wager, is untrue, and has been dis- 
 tinctly denied by the General him- 
 self. In clear weather the Islands 
 of Stilly, about 9 leagues distant, 
 may be distinguished upon the 
 western horizon. Their appearance 
 
 under a setting sun is eminently 
 beautiful, but they are more fre- 
 quently visible in the light of a 
 clear morning. There is a tradition 
 that these islands were once con- 
 nected with the mainland by a tract 
 of country called the Lyonesse — that 
 “ sweet land of Lyonesse,” where, 
 according to the poet, fell the heroic 
 King Arthur, when — • 
 
 “ All day long the noise of battle roll'd 
 Among the mountains by the winter sea.” 
 
 Spenser has given us a glimpse of 
 this legendary region, which he 
 places on the confines of Fairyland ; 
 but the chroniclers enter into par- 
 ticulars, and tell us how it contained 
 140 parish churches, and was swept 
 away by a sudden inundation. At 
 the present day the sea which flows 
 between Scilly and the mainland is 
 known by the denomination of Le- 
 thoivsow , or the Lioness ; the race 
 between the Longships and the 
 Land’s End being distinguished by 
 that of Gibben , or the Kettle’s BoL 
 tom — names which distinctly mark 
 the character of this turbulent ocean. 
 A dangerous rock of greenstone 
 called the Wol f is situated 8 m. S.W. 
 from the shore, and is geologically 
 interesting for containing veins of 
 white limestone. An attempt was 
 once made to fix upon it the figure 
 of an enormous wolf, which, con 
 structed of copper, was made hollow 
 within, that the mouth receiving the 
 tempest should emit sounds to warn 
 the mariner of his danger. The 
 violence of the elements frustrated 
 this project. But the rock stands 
 directly in the way of ships making 
 for the channel; and was so dan- 
 gerous that in 1860 the Trinity 
 Board determined to build a light- 
 house on it. This was a work of 
 extreme difficulty. The foundation 
 was begun in March, 1862 ; but only 
 83 hours’ work could be done in that 
 year, although every opportunity 
 was eagerly seized. The building 
 was continued till 1869, when the 
 x 2 
 
460 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. II. 
 
 last stone of the tower was laid. It 
 was designed by the Messrs. Walker, 
 engineers of the board, and super- 
 intended by one of them and by Mr. 
 Douglass, resident engineer. The 
 tower is 116 ft. 4 in. high ; the diam. 
 at the base is 41 ft. 8 in. It is built 
 of granite, each stone being dove- 
 tailed horizontally and vertically, 
 and secured by strong bolts of yellow 
 metal. The strength and solidity is 
 more apparent than in the Eddy- 
 stone or the Bishop Kock light- 
 houses ; but these far exceed the 
 Wolf in grace of outline. The cost 
 of erection was 62,72 61. The light 
 exhibits alternate flashes of red and 
 white at half-minute intervals. The 
 illuminating power of each beam is 
 estimated at 31,500 English candles, 
 or units of light. There is a mag- 
 nificent view from the balcony ; but 
 landing on the rock is not easy. 
 The tides round it are very strong, 
 and “ set ” about it in a circle, giving 
 little chance to the strongest swim- 
 mer. 
 
 It is an interesting but rough 
 walk along the shore to Cape Corn- 
 wall and Botallack Mine, the latter 
 of which is about 5 m. dist. Below 
 are the old Cornish names of several 
 striking points on this part of the 
 coast. 
 
 Pedn Men Dim , the Head of Black 
 Bock. The Shark’s Fin lies between 
 this headland and the Longships, 
 and the Irish Lady rises from the 
 waves at the foot of the cliffs. A 
 very perfect specimen of a cliff-castle 
 may be found between the Land’s 
 End and Pedn Men Dhu. It is 
 called Maen Castle. (It is not no- 
 ticed by Borlase, but a good descrip- 
 tion, by Mr. J. T. Blight, will be 
 found in ‘Gent. Mag.’ July, 1864, 
 p. 75.) 
 
 Sennen Cove and its little village, 
 boasting a pilchard-fishery and fish- 
 cellars. Here the traveller has en- 
 tered Whitesand Bay. Observe the 
 junction of the granite and slate. 
 
 Cam Olva, the Cam at the head of 
 the Breach : the breach being called 
 
 Vellan Breath , the Mill in the 
 Sand. The origin of the name of 
 this sandy hollow was ascertained 
 a few years ago, when the remains 
 of a tin Streamwork , together with 
 the skeleton and horns of a deer, 
 and an oak with its branches and 
 leaves, were discovered about 30 ft. 
 beneath the surface. The shore 
 scene here is of singular beauty. 
 
 Cam Towan , the Cam in the Sand. 
 
 Cam Barges , the Kite’s Cam. 
 
 Cam Crease , the Middle Cam. 
 
 Cam Kei t the Cam by the Hedge. 
 
 Aire , the Inner Point , as inside 
 Cape Cornwall. This headland is 
 the northern boundary of Whitesand 
 Bay. 
 
 Cam Venton , the Cam near the 
 Well. 
 
 Cam Kreigle, the Cam from 
 whence to call or cry ; probably so 
 named as a station of the huers in 
 the pilchard-fishery. 
 
 Cam Mellyn , the Yellow Cam. 
 
 Polpry , the Clay Pit. 
 
 Cam Leskez , the Cam of Light , 
 which was so called, says Borlase, 
 from the Druid fires which were 
 kindled on it — a guess which need 
 not be insisted on. The true word 
 is probably leskedd — broad and 
 slanting. 
 
 Cam Wetlian , the Cam of Trees ; 
 and here, remarks the same author, 
 “ an oak-tree is still (1769) to be 
 seen growing among the clefts of the 
 rocks.” 
 
 Cam or Carreg Glos , the Grey or 
 Hoary Bock — an appropriate name, 
 on account of the quantity of moss 
 and lichens with which the head- 
 land is covered. 
 
 Cape Cornwall. (See Excursion 
 4.) About 1 m. beyond it is Botal- 
 lack, one of the most celebrated of 
 the Cornish mines. (Excursion 4.) 
 
 In this excursion you should search 
 along the shore for raised beaches , 
 which are numerous, and very strik- 
 
Cornwall. fooute 29. 
 
 ing from the iarge size of their 
 rounded stones. 
 
 To return to the Land’s End. 
 Unquestionably the finest cliff sce- 
 nery in the W. of Cornwall lies be- 
 tween the Land’s End and the Logan 
 Rock ; and unquestionably (as we 
 think) the two finest points there are 
 Pardenick Point and Tol Pedn Pen - 
 with. The only way to see it tho- 
 roughly is to walk along the cliff. 
 The distance is about 6 m., and will 
 require from 2 to 4 hours, according 
 to the pace walked and the time 
 spent looking at the scenery. Before 
 leaving the Land’s End, the car- 
 riage should be ordered to go to 
 Treen , J m. from the Logan, and 
 wait there. For those who are not 
 good walkers, or who have not time 
 to spare, we suggest that they should 
 be driven in their carriage as near 
 Pardenick Point as they can, after 
 leaving Sennen, and walk from 
 thence to the Land’s End. No car- 
 riages can approach within 1 m. of 
 Tol Pedn Penwith ; and if that is 
 not too much, it can be taken in 
 the way to the Logan after the 
 horses are rested at the Land’s End. 
 The Penzance drivers know where 
 to put one down at the nearest 
 point. 
 
 From the Land’s End to the vil- 
 lage of Treen , by l oad, is about 4 m. 
 
 The following are the names of the 
 most remarkable points and objects 
 the pedestrian will meet on his walk 
 along the cliff, starting from the 
 Land’s End : — 
 
 South Cam and Dollar Rock. The 
 latter has derived its name from some 
 dollars having been dredged up in 
 its vicinity. 
 
 Cam Creis. 
 
 Cam Greeb , the crested rock. Sev- 
 eral rocks called Guela or Guelaz 
 {easily seen or distinguished) lie off 
 this headland. They are sometimes 
 called High Seen. The most strik- 
 
 ~ Par denick. 46 1 
 
 ing of the group is the “ Armed 
 Knight ,” 
 
 “huge and in a rock (of granite) arm’d,” 
 
 a pyramidal mass divided in such a 
 manlier by joints as to resemble a 
 knight in armour. 
 
 J Enys Dodnan the Island of u po- 
 sition ” or “ feature.” It is perfo- 
 rated by an archway. 
 
 Pardenick , or Pradenack (collec- 
 tion or “ herd ” of rocks). This is a 
 headland of remarkable grandeur 
 and beauty. It particularly excited 
 the admiration of Turner, who 
 sketched what the traveller will see 
 by a downward glance from the sum- 
 mit. One might, indeed, imagine 
 that giants of old had been here rear- 
 ing columns in sport. The most 
 striking group of rocks is called Chair 
 Ladder. The cliff-scenery between 
 Pardenick and Tol Pedn Penwith is 
 the finest in Cornwall, and probably 
 in Great Britain. To the W. is the 
 Land’s End Inn on Carn Kez. 
 
 Under Pardenick are 
 
 The Pludn , the Pool , a deep place, 
 and 
 
 Mozrang Pool , the Maids Pool. 
 Adapted for bathing. 
 
 Zawn Reeth , the Sand Cave. It is 
 a wild and magnificent archway, 
 noble in its dimensions, and well 
 worth a visit, and the descent to it 
 by the chine is quite practicable, 
 though not very easy. 
 
 CarnVoel, the “ Mounds ” of Rocks, 
 crowned by piles of rock, and below 
 them is a beautiful slope of turf, 
 commanding the coast eastward as 
 far as Tol Pedn. The W. side is 
 precipitous, slanting sheer to Zawn 
 Reeth. 
 
 Zawn Pyg , is “one of 
 
 many.” It is connected with bichan 
 = small. The cave is known also by 
 a prettier name — Song of the Sea. 
 It is a dark tunnel, or chink, in a 
 point of Pendower, through which 
 the light streams and the waves roll 
 with fine effect. Taking the cave 
 for the eye, and the tongue of rock 
 
462 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance * Sect. II. 
 
 for the beak, the resemblance to a 
 bird’s head is obvious. A path — but 
 a rugged one — leads along the steep 
 side of the bay, passing some exca- 
 vations where miners have broken 
 ground in search of tin, but with no 
 great success. On the W. is a pic- 
 turesque crane at the edge of the 
 cliff for raising sand from the beach. 
 This is effected by an ingenious con- 
 trivance. The ascending bucket, 
 loaded with a certain quantity of 
 sand, is drawn up by the greater 
 weight of the descending bucket, 
 which is filled with water from a 
 stream conducted to the spot with 
 that object. In a mine near Mer- 
 thyr Tydvil in South Wales the coal 
 is raised to the surface by a similar 
 contrivance. 
 
 Mill Bay , or Nankissal (valley of 
 the bosom), a wild romantic scene. 
 By the shore are the ruins of the 
 
 mill. 
 
 Cam Pendower, Cam at the head 
 of the ivater ; i. e. of the streams 
 which flow into Mill Bay. 
 
 Zawn Kellis or Gellis , The Hidden 
 Cavern. 
 
 Cam Barra (a loaf), Cam resem- 
 bling loaves , but in which other freaks 
 of form may be discerned ; for instance, 
 on the profile of the cliff the figure 
 of a lady at her devotions, and on 
 the slope above Por Loe the likeness 
 of a grotesque human head and face. 
 
 Por Loe (Lake Port ), a small rocky 
 recess, where an Indiaman was 
 wrecked some years ago. 
 
 Tol Pedn Penwith, the Holed Head- 
 land in Penwith. This promontory 
 forms the western boundary of the 
 Mount's Bay, and derives its name 
 from the Funnel Boclz, a deep well- 
 like chasm, the bottom of which, 
 opening to the sea, may be visited at 
 low water. A person accustomed to 
 cliffs may find his way down over 
 the granite, which, by its roughness, 
 affords a secure footing, and at any 
 state of the tide you may, and should, 
 descend to the level of the sea. You 
 will then gain a magnificent view of 
 
 the columns of weatherbeaten stone, 
 which rudely resemble Gothic 
 
 spires. Cam MeUyn, the Yellow 
 
 Cam, in a golden coat of lichen, rises 
 directly before you ; beyond it is Cam 
 Brawse , the Great Cam , and island 
 rocks at its foot, and in the distance 
 the Longships. 1 m. off the pro- 
 montory a dark speck and a ring of 
 foam mark the Rundlestone or Runnel 
 Stone, a point of granite 4 yds. long 
 by 2 in breadth rising from the deep 
 sea. Two beacons on the headland 
 indicate its position. But it is the 
 cause of repeated and fatal disasters. 
 In 1854, during a fog, a French brig 
 and 2 English schooners were 
 wrecked upon it one after the other. 
 In 1855 the Trinity House erected 
 upon it, at considerable expense, an 
 iron beacon, and mast, surmounted 
 by a ball : but in a severe winter’s 
 gale of 1856 the whole fabric was 
 washed away. Tol Pedn is well 
 known to geologists as affording fine 
 examples of granite veins in granite; 
 and it likewise contains a quantity 
 of black schorl, which is distributed 
 in patches, and generally occurs in 
 crystals in a matrix of quartz. 
 
 Polostoc, the Headland in the form 
 of a cap (the fisherman’s cap). It is 
 one of the grandest rocks on Tol 
 Pedn. The granite has the appear- 
 ance of sable drapery hanging in 
 folds. Directly W. of it a monstrous 
 figure (very striking indeed when 
 the sun is low in the W.) seems to 
 rest with its back against the cliff. 
 
 Porthgwarra , Port of Refuge, a ro- 
 mantic fishing station, at the mouth 
 of a wild valley, where a roadway to 
 the shore is formed by tunnels driven 
 through a tongue of granite. It is 
 famous for lobsters, which are caught 
 on the Rundlestone. 
 
 Cam Scathe (Scatha = a ferry beat), 
 i. e. a protecting earn for boats, is 
 the E. point of the cove. 
 
 Pol Ledan, the Broad Pool . 
 
 Cam Vessacks, the Outside Rock , 
 so called from a rock lying off the 
 point. 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 463 
 
 Route 29 . — St. Levan — Treryn Castle. 
 
 St. Levan , a remote and lonely 
 place, consisting of a ch. and a couple 
 of cottages. The Church, though 
 late Perpen. (the transept may be 
 rude E. Eng.), is well worth a 
 visit, if only for its situation in a very 
 pretty valley. The bench-ends are 
 good. Remark especially two, close 
 to the entrance, representing jesters 
 in cap and bells. In the porch is 
 a curious square stoup. The moor 
 stone rises from the long grass of the 
 ch.-yard, and the impression of deser- 
 tion and solitude is enhanced by the 
 solemn sound of the distant sea. 
 There is a line old cross in the ch.-yard, 
 and lich-stones and a small cross at 
 the entrances. Near the edge of the 
 cliff, and on the rt. bank of the stream, 
 is the ruin of the ancient baptistery 
 or well of St. Levan. 4 4 Tradition 
 says that St. Levan spent some of 
 his time at Bodillan, about f m. dis- 
 tant ; and the path thence through 
 Rosepletha, which he took to Pedn- 
 men-an-mere, the 4 stone headland 
 by the sea/ to fish, is said io be still 
 visible, being marked by a stronger 
 vegetation/’ — Blight. He caught 
 
 only one fish a day. But once, when 
 bis sister and her child came to visit 
 him, after catching a chad, which he 
 thought not dainty enough to enter- 
 tain them, he threw it again into the 
 sea. The same fish was caught 3 
 times : and at last the saint accepted 
 it, cooked, and placed it before his 
 guests, when the child was choked 
 by the first mouthful, and St. Levan 
 saw in the accident a punishment 
 for his dissatisfaction with the fish 
 which Providence had sent him. 
 The chad is still called here 44 chack- 
 cheeld ” = choke-child. 
 
 Pedn Maen an Mor, the stone head- 
 land in the sea. At its foot is 
 
 Manach Point , the Montis Point , 
 a pile of granite. 
 
 Porth Kernow (now spelled Porth- 
 curnoio), the 44 Port of Cornwall,” or 
 perhaps more properly 44 Port of the 
 horn,” i. e. horn-shaped. The rocks 
 are magnificent, and the sands formed 
 
 entirely of curious shells. As many 
 as 150 varieties have been found; 
 but the abundance of certain species 
 depends in a measure on the direc- 
 tion of the wind, which, to be favour- 
 able, should blow from the shore. 
 
 Por Selli , the Cove of Eels (i. e. 
 conger eels). 
 
 Pedn Vounder ( a lane), a narrow 
 com The finest view of Castle 
 Treryn is to be had from this spot. 
 The Logan rock is seen on the second 
 ridge of rocks inland. Off the cove 
 is a ledge of rocks on which lance 
 may be caught in numbers. This is 
 an excellent bait for turbot. 
 
 Treryn Castle, or Treryn Dinas , 
 the Fighting Place, a magnificent 
 headland of granite, which by itself 
 would amply repay any fatigue at- 
 tendant on an excursion from Pen- 
 zance ; but besides the interest at- 
 taching to so vast and lonely a fabric 
 reared by nature on the shore of the 
 ocean, this promontory has claims 
 on the attention of the traveller as 
 the site of the celebrated Logan 
 Stone, a block of granite weighing 
 upwards of 60 tons (65’ 8 tons, Ma- 
 culloch), but so nicely balanced that 
 it may be made to oscillate on its 
 point of support. In 1824, however, 
 this rocking-stone was deprived of 
 much of its former interest, when a 
 Lieutenant Goldsmith, in command 
 of a revenue cruiser — perhaps incited 
 to the feat by the confident assertion 
 of Borlase, that 44 it is morally im- 
 possible that any lever, or indeed 
 any force, however applied in a me- 
 chanical way, can remove the Logan 
 Rock from its present situation” — 
 overturned it with the assistance of 
 his boat’s crew. It was a sailor-like 
 but expensive frolic, as the Admiralty 
 ordered the officer (who was nephew 
 to the author of the/ Yicar of Wake- 
 field’) to replace the stone, This 
 arduous duty was accomplished 
 at the end of the same year, 
 the Government, at the request of 
 the late Mr. Davies Gilbert (who 
 
464 
 
 Sect. II. 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : 
 
 also subscribed most handsomely to 
 the work), lending machinery, &c., 
 for it. The village of Treen was 
 supported by visitors to the Logan, 
 but after the stone’s overthrow it 
 decayed, and was called “ Gold- 
 smith’s deserted village.” The rock 
 basins in the granite are remarkable. 
 They are said to have been used by 
 the Druids in their religious cere- 
 monies. However that may have 
 been (and there is not the slightest 
 real ground for such a belief), the 
 headland of Treryn is isolated by an 
 entrenchment of earth and stones, 
 forming a triple line of defence, of 
 which the outer vallum is about 
 15 ft. high. Hence the prefix of 
 castle. Most of the Cornish head- 
 lands are cut off from the mainland 
 by a sort of scarp and breastwork. 
 The “Black Head” in St. Austell 
 parish is a good example. Others 
 are to be traced on Ramehead, the 
 Dodman, Cudden Point, and Tinta- 
 gel. At Treryn Castle (besides the 
 3 lines of fortifications) this scarp 
 occurs faced with stones, and has 
 an entrance with granite posts. 
 These “ cliff castles ” have been as- 
 signed to Britons, Romans, Saxons, 
 Danes, and Irish ; but it seems quite 
 impossible to determine by whom 
 they were originally constructed. 
 Similar remains (of which Port 
 Castle and Castle Feather in Wig- 
 tonshire are the mo ( d important) 
 exist on the W. coast of Scotland, 
 and are frequent on the coast of 
 Wales, especially in the neighbour- 
 hood of St. David’s. Passing through 
 this ancient camp, we gain the pro- 
 montory by a narrow isthmus, and 
 scale it by a well-worn path. The 
 best point of view is from the E. 
 group of rocks, w T hence the Logan 
 stone is well seen, and the Castle- 
 peali, the summit of the pile. The 
 granite, shaggy with byssus (old m an’s 
 beard), is weathered into rhomboidal 
 masses, and, assuming in places a 
 porphyritic character, is marked by 
 vivid colours. Some of the caverns 
 
 rival those in serpentine for the bril- 
 liancy of their tints. The botanist 
 may find the common thrift, wild 
 carrot, Sedum telephium, Saxifraga 
 stellaris, and Asplenium marinum, 
 or sea spleenwort ; the mineralogist 
 crystals of felspar, veins of red fel- 
 spar. and schorl, which is principally 
 distributed among the joints of the 
 granite. On the E. side are the 
 recess called Gampen seez , i. e. a 
 crooked bay with a dry rock in it, 
 and Peiiberth Cove ; on the W. a 
 beautiful bay which sweeps round to 
 the valley of Porthcurnow, and the 
 headland of Pedn Maen an Mor (the 
 “ headland of the stone in the sea”). 
 
 Many hours may be pleasantly 
 passed here. Along the steeply 
 shelving shore are numerous fine 
 earns, and so clear is the water that 
 the sands below it may be seen 
 moving as the waves roll past. Cor- 
 morants cluster on the outlying rocks, 
 and little companies of mullet and 
 bass wander from cove to cove. In 
 early spring the blue flowers of 
 the Scilla verna are plentiful on the 
 turf about the cliffs. (At St. Ives 
 it varies with white and pink 
 flowers.) 
 
 From the Logan rock a footpath 
 leads due N. across some fields to 
 the village of Treen , J m. distant, 
 where the carriage should be waiting 
 at the small publichouse. 
 
 Leaving Treen by a steep descent, 
 and equally steep ascent on the other 
 side, the road passes through an un- 
 interesting country, till we reach 
 
 St. Bury an, now consisting of a 
 ch. and a few wretched cottages, but 
 once a place of note, and the seat of 
 a college of Augustinian canons, 
 said to have been founded by Athel- 
 stan after his conquest of Stilly, on 
 the site of the oratory of St. Buriana, 
 “ a holy woman of Ireland.” accord- 
 ing to Leland. Remains of collegi- 
 ate buildings were destroyed by 
 Shrubshall, the iconoclastic governor 
 of Pendennis Castle under Cromwell, 
 
 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 tlouie 29 . — Lamorna Cove . 
 
 465 
 
 but the supposed site is still called 
 the “Sanctuary.” The present Church 
 (date 15th centy., Henry VII. — but 
 an early Korin, arch is built up on 
 the N. side of the chancel, and the 
 granite font is perhaps E. Eng.), 
 probably the 3rd which has stood 
 here, is of rather large size, with a 
 nave, and N. and S. aisles. It is 
 built of Ludgvan granite, a fine 
 grained stone of a kind which no 
 longer is found in Ludgvan, or the 
 neighbourhood. The fine tower is 
 90 ft. high. The antiquities of the 
 ch. were, with few exceptions, de- 
 stroyed in 1814, when the building 
 was repaired : and particularly a 
 fine rood-screen, the loss of which is 
 much to be deplored. A few of the 
 fragments have been pieced together, 
 and placed across the ch. in their 
 original position. The carving is 
 fine bold work, of grotesque figures 
 and demons among foliage, grapes, 
 &c. A door in the S. wall is the 
 entrance to a staircase, which led to 
 the rood-loft. In the belfry, or tower, 
 there is a curious coffin-shaped mo- 
 nument (13th centy.), which was 
 found in 1665 under the turf in the 
 ch.-yard, and bears an inscription in 
 Norman French to the following 
 effect : — 
 
 “Clarice, la femme Ghelfrei de Bolleit git 
 ici: Dev de lalme eit merce: ke pur lalme 
 pvnt di lor de pardvn avervnd. 
 
 > “ Clarice , the wife of Geoffrey de Bolleit 
 lies here : God on her soul have mercy : who- 
 ever shall pray for her soul shall have 10 
 days’ pardon ” 
 
 One of the bells, dated 1738, has 
 the inscription, # “Virginis egregim 
 vocor campana Marise,” a curious 
 - instance of post-reformation adop- 
 tion. Near the porch is a cross 
 raised on 5 steps. 
 
 Bolleit is the name of a farm still 
 existing in this parish (see succeed- 
 ing Excursion). The traveller will 
 remark the two time-worn crosses 
 which stand, the one by the roadside, 
 
 and the other elevated on steps in 
 the ch.-yard, truly venerable objects 
 with their rude sculpture and grey 
 stones corroded by the saltladen air. 
 (Small models of the latter cross are 
 to be obtained at Mr. Prockter’s shop 
 in Penzance.) The ch. is situated 
 in a wild desolate position, 415 ft. 
 above the sea, and commands from 
 the summit of the tower a vast pro- 
 spect over the Atlantic, extending in 
 a westerly direction to the islands of 
 Scilly, which are distinctly seen on 
 a clear day. Buryan , with the 
 
 parishes of St. Levan and Sennen, 
 is a deanery, and a royal peculiar : 
 i. e. held direct from the sovereign, 
 and independent of the jurisdiction 
 of the bishop of the diocese. The 
 annual value of Buryan, in the gift 
 of the Crown, is 1004L 
 
 This parish was the birthplace of 
 William Noy t attorney-general to 
 Charles I., born 1577. 1 m. S.E. of 
 the ch., on the estate of Borliven, are 
 the remains of an ancient chapel. 
 
 Buryan is 6 m. from Penzance. 
 The direct road joins the Penzance 
 and Land’s End road about 3J m. 
 from Penzance. There is nothing 
 of much interest by the way. The 
 traveller can return to Penzance 
 from hence by Lamorna Cove, Paul, 
 and Newlyn ; but, as it is 2 or 3 m. 
 longer, we prefer to subjoin a descrip- 
 tion of that side of the country in 
 another excursion. 
 
 6. Benzance to Lamorna Cove , return - 
 ing by Mousehole and Newlyn . 
 
 This is a much shorter excursion 
 than many given above, and can be 
 easily managed in an afternoom 
 Lamorna is about 6 m. from Pen- 
 zance. A most delightful road, or 
 rather terrace, passes along the mar- 
 gin of the bay to this village, and 
 between Newlyn and Mousehole 
 commands such a view of Penzance, 
 its curving shore and background of 
 x 3 
 
466 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. 11. 
 
 hills, as would be gained from a 
 vessel coming in from sea. Between 
 Penzance and Newlyn the stranger 
 will observe the ruins of an engine- 
 house, marking the locality of the 
 once celebrated Wherry Mine. This 
 was a work of an extraordinary cha- 
 racter. Not only were the levels 
 driven under the bay, but the shaft 
 was actually sunk through the sea 
 at a distance of 720 ft. from the 
 shore. The upper portion consisted 
 of a caisson rising 12 ft. from the 
 surface of the water, and the pump- 
 rod was conducted along a stage, or 
 wherry , erected upon piles. So ex- 
 posed were the works of this mine 
 to the casualties of storms, that upon 
 one occasion the platform was carried 
 away by a ship driving ashore. The 
 miners worked at a depth of 100 ft. 
 beneath the bay, the water drained 
 through the roof, and the noise of 
 the waves was distinctly heard in 
 the levels. This bold adventure, 
 which was the only mine ever known 
 to have been sunk in the sea, was 
 abandoned 1798, on account of the 
 great expense attending it; 3000Z. 
 worth of tin was, however, raised 
 one year in the course of the summer. 
 In 1836 it was again worked for a 
 time, but at a heavy loss. Passing 
 the bridge at the opening of the 
 valley of Tolcarne, we enter Street - 
 an-Nowan (i. e. New Street), and 
 Newlyn, situated at the foot of Paul 
 Hill — a most formidable ascent, and 
 at the bend of the bay which here 
 forms the roadstead of Gwavas Lake, 
 being well protected by the land 
 from the prevalent winds. It may 
 be fairly questioned whether it is 
 better to go or return by the under 
 cliff road from Newlyn to Mousehole : 
 but it is perhaps preferable to ascend 
 Paul Hill, and return under the 
 cliff. This latter road comes out 
 half-way up Paul Hill, after a most 
 tortuous and intricate course through 
 Newlyn streets or rather passages. 
 This road should not be attempted, 
 if the horses are liable to take fright 
 
 at the sea, or at being driven near 
 the edge of the cliff. 
 
 Having reached the top of Paul 
 Hill, turn, or climb up on a hedge, 
 to look back at the magnificent view. 
 A lane 1. leads to St. PauVs Church 
 J m. distant, and Mousehole. If it 
 be intended to walk along the cliff 
 from Lamorna to Mousehole, it is 
 better to diverge now to see the ch. 
 If intending to return to Mousehole 
 in the carriage, it will be better to re- 
 turn to this point, and take St. Paul’s 
 Ch. en route. The Church (Perp.) 
 has a curious small arch between 
 the nave and N. aisle, constructed 
 on a solid block of masonry, 3 .ft. 
 6 in. above the floor. It is earlier 
 than the rest of the building, and 
 may have been a hagioscope from 
 the transept, retained when the nave 
 was reconstructed. In the N. aisle 
 is a monument to William Godolphin 
 of Trewarveneth (1689), said to have 
 been the last representative of that 
 family ; and a curious one to Stephen 
 Hutchens (died in Jamaica, 1709), 
 who gave to the ch. an almshouse, 
 and a saw his desire upon his ene- 
 mies.” It has an old Cornish in- 
 scription, the only one now remain- 
 ing, which is translated — 
 
 “ Eternal life be his, whose loving care 
 
 Gave Paul an almshouse, and the church 
 repair.” 
 
 The ch. is chiefly famous, however, 
 for being the burying-place of old 
 “Dolly Pentreath (properly Jeffery, 
 but married women in Cornwall 
 often retain their maiden name),” 
 reputed to be the last person who 
 could speak the Cornish language. 
 She died in 1778, at the alleged age 
 of 102. (But Bodenner, who spoke 
 Cornish well, died in 1798 — and cu- 
 riously (or suspiciously) enough — 
 at the same alleged age of 102. 
 Polwhele, in 1784, met one Tomson 
 of Truro, a mine engineer, who spoke 
 Cornish fluently). A monument has 
 been lately erected to her memory 
 on the ch.-yard wall facing the 
 
46 ? 
 
 Cornwall. Route 29 . — Lamorna Com. 
 
 road, with the following inscrip- 
 tion : — 
 
 “Here lieth interred Dorothy Pentreath, 
 who died in 1778 ; said to have been the last 
 person who conversed in the ancient Cornish, 
 the peculiar language of this county from the 
 earliest records, till it expired in the 18 th 
 century in this parish of St. Paul. This 
 stone is erected by the Prince Louis Lucien 
 Bonaparte, in union with the Rev. John Gar- 
 rett, vicar of St. Paul, June 1860. Honour 
 thy father and thy mother, &c. Ex. xx. 12.” 
 
 With a translation into Cornish : — 
 
 “ Gura Perthi de Taz, Sta. de Mammal de 
 Dythiow Bethenz hyr war au tyr neb au 
 Arleth de Dew Ryes dees. Exod. xx. 12.” 
 
 A curious cross, of the usual Corn- 
 ish type, is also on the ch.-yard wall. 
 The following Irishism once existed 
 in the ch. in the form of a notice : 
 “ The Spanyer burnt this ch. in 
 the year 1595.” (These were the 
 Spaniards who attacked and burnt 
 Penzance — see Rte. 27). Tradition 
 represents the porch as having es- 
 caped the conflagration in conse- 
 quence of the direction of the wind ; 
 and this was confirmed some years 
 ago, when, on making repairs, one 
 of the wooden supporters was found 
 charred at the end nearest the ch. 
 There is a magnificent view from 
 the tower. 
 
 Returning to the Buryan road, we 
 soon reach a point which looks down 
 on the beautiful valley leading up 
 from Lamorna. On the opposite 
 side of the valley, and in front of 
 us, on an estate called Treewoofe 
 (pronounced Troove) is a triple en- 
 trenchment, in which is a cave 
 called the Fogou (Welsh, Ogof; a 
 cavern). It is 36 ft. long, and about 
 6 ft. high ; faced on each side with 
 unhewn and uncemented stones, 
 roofed in with stone slabs, covered 
 with thick turf. The breadth of the 
 cave is about 5 ft. On the 1. hand, 
 soon after entering, a narrow passage 
 leads into a branch cave, of conside- 
 rable extent, constructed in a similar 
 manner. This may be much larger 
 than is at present known, since the 
 
 roof has fallen in and blocked the 
 end/ The entrance, at the S.W. 
 end, is, as well as the whole struc- 
 ture, almost entirely concealed by 
 the furze which has grown over it. 
 Similar caves exist at Trelowarren, 
 Rte. 28; Pendeen in St. Just (Ex- 
 cursion 4); at Chapel Euny (Ex- 
 cursion 4); and probably at Chy- 
 sawster (Excursion 3). Others, 
 which have never been properly ex- 
 amined, are said to be at Boscaswell 
 in St. Just; at Bos-au-an in Con- 
 stantine parish at Rosemorran in 
 Gulval ; and at Tremenheer in Mul- 
 lion. There is also a cave at Tre- 
 veneage in St. Hilary, which has 
 been partly explored. In it a spear 
 head and some pottery have been 
 found. This cave is closely con- 
 nected with a hill fort. Similar 
 caves exist in Scotland (near Aber- 
 deen, and at Blairgowrie, where 
 one has been turned up 100 yds. in 
 length) ; and in Ireland, where they 
 are almost always connected with 
 “raths” or forts, sometimes within, 
 sometimes outside the walls. In all 
 these caves there are many chambers 
 communicating one with another. 
 They are either places for conceal- 
 ment in disturbed times, or store- 
 houses, but can hardly be regarded 
 as ordinary dwellings ; and nothing 
 has as yet been discovered which 
 throws any certain light on their 
 original constructors. In this cave 
 of Treewoofe a party of Cavaliers is 
 said to have been successfully hid 
 by Mr. Levelis, of Trewoofe, after 
 the overthrow of the royal cause 
 in 1646. The ornamented doorway 
 of the manor-house, temp. Hen. VIII., 
 only remains. Notice, above, the 
 canting arms of the family of Le 
 Veale (softened to Levelis), a chevron 
 between 3 calves’ heads. 
 
 J m. beyond Treewoofe, on the 
 Buryan road, is the hamlet of Bolleit 
 or Boleigh (pronounced with accent 
 on the last syllable), the Place of 
 Slaughter , or the House of Blood , 
 traditionally the scene of the final 
 
468 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : 
 
 overthrow of the Britons by Athel- 
 stan in the year 936. The Pipers , 
 rt. of the road, are two large upright 
 stones, 12 and 16 ft. in height, stand- 
 ing 320 ft. apart, and perhaps mark 
 the burial-place of those slain in 
 this fight. They have received their 
 present appellation from their vici- 
 nity to a stone circle called the 
 Merry Maidens, but are also known 
 as the Giant's Grave , a name which 
 is certainly more appropriate, if we 
 consider them as memorials of a 
 place of sepulture. It may, however, 
 have originated in their resemblance 
 to the head and tail stones of a 
 grave. Beyond Boleigh we pass the 
 hamlet of 
 
 Newtown. We are here on high 
 ground, with a delightful view over 
 the country, which is rendered beau- 
 tiful by the wild valleys and the 
 many crofts of furze, heather, and 
 grey stones. A turn in the road 
 brings us to a wayside cross and a 
 solitary cottage. Immediately oppo- 
 site, by the side of a gate, is a holed 
 stone , and in a field 1. of the road, 
 on the estate of Rosemodris, a cele- 
 brated circle known as the 
 
 Dawns Men, the Stone Dance or 
 Dancing Stones , and popularly as the 
 Merry Maidens. This remarkable 
 monument consists of 19 stones, all 
 of which are now upright, and is 
 supposed to have originated the 
 name of the farm on which it is situ- 
 ated (Rosemodris — i.e. Rhos modris 
 — the moor of the circle, the old 
 word modris or modereng signifying 
 an orb, ring, or circle). The whim- 
 sical title is said to be derived from 
 a legend that these stones were once 
 young women, who were thus trans- 
 formed for dancing on the Sabbath. 
 Lhuyd, however, has given a more 
 rational view of its origin, and says 
 that the stones “ are so called of the 
 common people, on no other account 
 than that they are placed in a cir- 
 cular order and so make an area for 
 dancing.” A little distance to the 
 
 Sect It. 
 
 W. is a large upright stone, similar 
 to those at the Giant’s Grave ; and 
 close at hand (as before mentioned) 
 the holed stone to which the Druid 
 priests are supposed (by Borlase) to 
 have fastened their victims, while 
 they went through the ceremonies 
 preparatory to sacrifice. The circle 
 stands on a hill-side in a lonely 
 country, and is a most interesting 
 relic of antiquity. 
 
 Lamorna Cove , formerly one of the 
 most romantic spots on the coast, but 
 now, being selected for the site of 
 some granite works, it is little better 
 than a mason’s yard. It is curious 
 that the granite on the E. side only 
 is of sufficiently fine grain to be valu- 
 able ; the W. side is much intersected 
 by quartz veins. 
 
 1 m. W. of Lamorna is the head- 
 land of Cam Boscawen , remarkable 
 for some rocks so placed as to form 
 an archway, through which a person 
 can pass. Their arrangement has 
 been attributed by Borlase to the 
 Druids, but is probably natural. B os- 
 henna, G. D. Bevan, Esq., but the 
 property of Thomas Paynter, Esq., 
 is near this headland, and is as wild 
 and secluded a place of residence as 
 can well be imagined. 
 
 A good walker will require little 
 longer time to walk to Mousehole, 
 which is about 2 m. along the cliff, 
 than a carriage will to return by 
 the road. To the geologist the cliffs 
 W. of Mousehole are extremely in- 
 teresting on account of the granite 
 veins, which there penetrate the 
 slate at the junction of the two 
 formations, becoming schorlaceous 
 as they enter the slate. 
 
 Both Mousehole and Newly n are 
 colonies of fishermen, with narrow 
 paved lanes, glistening with pilchard 
 scales in the season — with external 
 staircases, and picturesque interiors, 
 of which glimpses are obtained 
 through an open doorway or window. 
 They will exceedingly delight artists 
 who entertain “ a proper sense of the 
 
(Cornwall. Route 29 . — Lamorna Cove . 
 
 value of dirt,” and in this respect, 
 indeed, may call to mind the semi- 
 barbarous habitations of some foreign 
 countries — such as Spain. The per- 
 fume of garlic fills the air, and other 
 odours not so sweet hasten the step 
 of the traveller. These arise from 
 little enclosures which front every 
 cottage-door. They are neatly bor- 
 dered with stones or shells, and con- 
 sist — not of a flower-bed, but of a 
 dunghill, formed chiefly of the refuse 
 of fish, in which the process of decay 
 is hastened by the activity of many 
 unhappy-looking fowls and pigs. It 
 is a custom of the country, but how 
 it can be tolerated passes compre- 
 hension. Mousehole is prettily placed 
 at the mouth of a coomb. Though 
 not the sweetest of places in one 
 I sense of the word, it offers pleasing 
 subjects for the pencil, and we may 
 draw attention to the rocky point 
 by the pier as worthy of a sketch, 
 in connexion with the thatched cot- 
 l tages and distance of Penzance. The 
 pier is of singular construction, the 
 granite stones being arranged verti- 
 cally. Beyond it is a curious house 
 (part of which now forms an inn, 
 the Keigwin Arms), formerly the resi- 
 dence of the Keigwins, a family 
 known for John K., who assisted 
 Lhuyd in his Cornish grammar, and 
 was probably the last person tho- 
 roughly acquainted with the old lan- 
 guage (Kei-gwin = white dog ; the 
 arm s are 3 white'grey hounds). Here, 
 in 1595, when the Spaniards landed 
 at Mousehole (see Penzance, Rte. 
 27), lived Jenkin K., the squire of 
 the place, whose death by a shot 
 from one of the galleys caused a 
 panic among the inhabitants, who 
 . had assembled to oppose the invaders. 
 The cannon-ball by which he was 
 killed is still preserved, aud is kept 
 in the cottage opposite this inn. 
 The walls of the house were origi- 
 nally 4 ft. thick, and the timbers, so 
 at least says “ the oldest inhabitant/' 
 were grown in the forest which 
 now lies submerged on the shore 
 
 469 
 
 of Mount's Bay. Some 50 years ago, 
 when smuggling was rife along this 
 coast, and tubs of spirit were netted 
 in preference to pilchards, the Mouse- 
 hole people were by no means re- 
 garded as models of excellence from 
 a moral point of view; but John 
 Wesley and his followers effected a 
 great change by their preaching, 
 and, much to their credit, reclaimed 
 the fishermen from their former reck- 
 less and disorderly habits. Drunk- 
 enness is now almost unknown in 
 the place, and Sunday is reverenced 
 by all as a sacred day. The fisher- 
 men have built for themselves an 
 additional pier at a cost of 1400 1., 
 1200 1. of which was raised by their 
 own joint bond, which they are now 
 discharging by a yearly contribution 
 from each boat. Mousehole was an- 
 ciently called Porth Enys (Enys, an 
 island), from St. Clement's Isle , a rock 
 of slaty felspar lying off the harbour, 
 on which there was once a chapel. 
 By Mousehole Island the torpedo, or 
 electric eel, is often caught of great 
 size. The rare boar-fish is caught 
 off the Runnel Stone. The present 
 name of the village may excite the 
 curiosity of the ' traveller. He will 
 probably place little faith in the 
 popular tradition that it has been 
 derived from a cavern on the shore 
 called the Mouse Hole ; but the sug- 
 gestion that it originated in the 
 Cornish words Moz-hel , or Mouz-hel , 
 the Maids' Brook or River, deserves 
 more attention. To the geologist the 
 shore west of the village is interest- 
 ing on account of the granite veins 
 which penetrate the slate at the 
 junction of the two formations, be- 
 coming schorlaceous as they enter 
 the slate. The junction is about 
 1 00 ft. beyond the pier, the “ Mouse- 
 hole v about 400. It is a rough and 
 difficult walk, but the cavern is often 
 visited, even by ladies. 
 
 The road from hence to Newlyn, 
 for about 2 m., follows the indenta- 
 tions of the cliff, affording magni- 
 ficent views of the bay and its en- 
 
470 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. It. 
 
 virons. From Newlyn it is possible 
 to pass in a light carriage, at low 
 water, from one end of the village to 
 the other ; but when the tide is in, 
 the hill must be scaled through the 
 narrow ways of Newlyn, till we 
 emerge half-way down Paul Hill 
 on the main road to Penzance. 
 
 7. The Scilly Islands . 
 
 The Islands of Scilly are about 30 
 m. from the Land’s End, and may be 
 reached by steamer from Penzance. 
 The inducements to this trip are the 
 remote and wild position of these 
 islands, the beauty and grandeur of 
 the rock scenery, and some antiqui- 
 ties. Lodging-houses and good inns 
 are to be found at St. Mary’s. (There 
 are 2 inns at St. Mary’s, and one at 
 Tresco; all clean and comfortable.) 
 The group consists of about 40 
 islands bearing herbage, but only 
 five are inhabited ; the others, with 
 a number of islets of rock, being 
 tenanted by gulls and rabbits. 
 
 The names of those meriting notice 
 
 by their size are — 
 
 
 
 
 
 Acres. 
 
 St. Mary’s 
 
 .. about 1600 
 
 Tresco . . 
 
 
 700 
 
 St. Martin’s .. 
 
 • • )) 
 
 550 
 
 St. Agnes 
 
 • # 11 
 
 350 
 
 Bryher . . 
 
 
 300 
 
 Samson . . 
 
 
 80 
 
 St. Helen’s 
 
 • • 
 
 40 
 
 Annette 
 
 • • 11 
 
 40 
 
 Tean 
 
 
 35 
 
 Great Ganniley 
 
 • • » 
 
 35 
 
 Arthur . . 
 
 • • M 
 
 30 
 
 Great and Little Ganniornic 10 
 
 Northwithial .. 
 
 # # 11 
 
 8 
 
 Gweal 
 
 • • jf 
 
 8 
 
 Little Ganniley 
 
 • • 11 
 
 5 
 
 The Scilly Islands have been 
 
 claimed as the true “ Cassiterides ” 
 
 or “ Tin Islands ” 
 
 of the 
 
 Greeks ; 
 
 an appropriation which is at least 
 doubtful, since no tin is at present 
 found in them* (The “ Cassiterides ” 
 
 of Herodotus and Strabo probably 
 embraced the whole tin-producing re- 
 gion of Western Britain.) Ausonius 
 is the first writer who describes them 
 as the Sillinse Insulse . In this appel- 
 lation we are of course to recognize 
 the present “ Scilly,” said to be de- 
 rived from Silya, the Cornish for 
 conger , or from Sulleh y a British word 
 signifying the rocks consecrated to the 
 sun. The latter derivation will be 
 probably adopted by the traveller 
 who has beheld these islands from 
 the Land’s End by sunset, when they 
 appear like dark spots on the disc of 
 the setting luminary ; but the real ety- 
 mology is most probably to be found 
 in a Cornish word signifying “ di- 
 vided,” i.e., separated from the main- 
 land. (There is a “ Scilly Cove ” 
 near Polperro — a deep scoop in the 
 cliff, evidently related in name to the 
 islands.) Scilly was occasionally used 
 by the Komans as a place of banish- 
 ment; and when Athelstan passed 
 westward from Exeter through Corn- 
 wall in 926, he is said (there is no 
 real authority for the statement) to 
 have visited and “subdued” the 
 Scilly Islands. In the great civil 
 war they were long held for the 
 king. In 1645, after the defeat of 
 the royal cause in the West, they 
 sheltered Prince Charles ; bnt a hos- 
 tile fleet having formed a cordon 
 round the islands, the prince fled to 
 Jersey when the first opportunity oc- 
 curred. The most memorable event 
 of which these isles have been the 
 scene was their fortification in 1649 
 by Sir John Grenville, the royalist 
 who took so active a part in the 
 restoration of Charles II. He con- 
 verted these lonely rocks into a 
 stronghold for privateers, and with 
 these he swept the neighbouring 
 seas, and so crippled the trade of 
 the Channel that the Parliament at 
 length fitted out a powerful fleet 
 under Blake and Sir George Ayscue, 
 and to this Grenville was forced 
 to surrender June 1651. Tavistock 
 Abbey had possessions in the Scilly 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 471 
 
 Route 29 . — The Scilly Islands . 
 
 Isles in the reign of the Confessor ; 
 and it was possibly at the cell of the 
 Benedictines on Tresco that Olaf 
 Triggvi’s son, the royal “ Apostle ” 
 of Norway, was converted and bap- 
 tized (a.d. 993. A “spaman” or 
 hermit on one of the islands, fore- 
 told to him, according to the saga, 
 much of his future life). The North- 
 men hung much about Scilly. The 
 Abbots of Tavistock and the Earls 
 of Cornwall were Lords of Scilly 
 according to their several interests ; 
 a part of the islands, in the reign of 
 Edw. I., being held of the king at 
 a rent of 300 puffins. They are now 
 included in the Duchy of Cornwall. 
 In the reign of Elizabeth they ap- 
 pear to have been divided among a 
 number of proprietors, from whom 
 they were bought up by the crown ; 
 and from that period to the year 
 1830 they were rented by the family 
 of Godolphin. At present Augus- 
 tus Smith, Esq., late M.P. for Truro, 
 is the lessee, or Lord Proprietor, of 
 these lonely isles. The inhabitants, 
 who are principally sailors, fisher- 
 men, and pilots, are a long-lived 
 race when spared by the boisterous 
 sea which surrounds them ; but the 
 frequency with which this element 
 demanded a victim, previously to re- 
 cent improvements in their pilot and 
 fishing craft, is denoted by a saying, 
 that for one who dies a natural death 
 nine are drowned. The Scillonians, 
 however, make excellent sailors ; 
 and seem to have a power of “ getting 
 on in the world ” in whatever calling 
 they embrace. Many of the most 
 flourishing shopkeepers at Penzance 
 are from Scilly. The chief produce 
 of Scilly is an early potato, which 
 within the last few years has given 
 rise to a very flourishing trade, many 
 tons of this vegetable being annually 
 shipped to the markets of London 
 and Bristol. The value of property 
 in the islands is o increasing, but 
 their population is decreasing. In 
 1851 it was 2627, but in 1861 it had 
 fallen to 2431 ; the number of inha- 
 
 bited houses had declined from 512 
 to 499, and all the people have been 
 removed from Samson, thus reducing 
 the number of inhabited islets from 
 6 to 5. 
 
 The isles of Scilly are wholly com- 
 posed of granite, and form an outly- 
 ing member of that series of granitic 
 highlands which extends through 
 Cornwall to Dartmoor. They are 
 traditionally said to have been once 
 united to the mainland — as the other 
 granite districts are with each other 
 — by a tract of slate, which is men- 
 tioned by early writers under the 
 name of the Lyonesse , and is said to 
 have been overwhelmed by a sudden 
 irruption of the ocean. The fisher- 
 man still points to the Seven Stones 
 as “ the City ;” and it is not uninter- 
 esting to call to mind that about 
 50 years ago, during a violent storm, 
 the seas threatened to form a junction 
 between Hayle and Marazion, and 
 thus to sever the next link in the 
 chain. The granite of Scilly consists 
 in general of a coarse-grained mix- 
 ture of felspar, quartz, and mica, 
 often stained by iron, and therefore 
 of little economical value ; but horn- 
 blende, schorl, and chlorite are in 
 some localities found in it; and in 
 Taylor's Island prisms of tourmaline 
 occupying the place of the mica. As 
 a feature of the scenery it is highly 
 interesting. Its principal ingredient, 
 the felspar, is often of a deep red 
 colour, which beautifully contrasts 
 with the tints of the sea ; whilst the 
 rocks of the coast, continually bat- 
 tered by storms, present impressive 
 pictures of natural decay. In dif- 
 ferent places the granite will be 
 found to vary in composition, struc- 
 ture, and condition. In Water-mill 
 Bay, St. Mary's, it is seamed by 
 numberless joints, which give it 
 the appearance of a stratified rock ; 
 the caverns of Piper's Hole, in St. 
 Mary’s and Tresco, are roofed by 
 a secondary or regenerate granite; 
 Holy Yale, in St, Mary's, contains 
 
472 Route 29. — Excursions from Penzance : 
 
 a china-clay, or decomposed granite ; 
 and the beach of Forth Hellick 
 (Hillick, i.e. willows) is strewn with 
 stones of a binary compound of 
 quartz and felspar. The destruction 
 of the felspar in these granite rocks 
 has served to decorate the shore with 
 the liberated quartz and mica. The 
 southern beaches of Tresco are mainly 
 composed of pure white quartz, and 
 the sands of Permellin, near Hugh 
 Town, streaked by curved lines of 
 black mica. With respect to the 
 climate and the botany, the mean 
 temperature of the summer is 58°, of 
 the winter 45° ; the chief botanical 
 feature is the fern tribe, and in par- 
 ticular Asplenium marinum , or sea- 
 spleenwort, which grows to an un- 
 common length in the damp caverns 
 of the coast. The following rarer 
 species are enumerated by Mr. 
 North : — 
 
 Osmunda regalis . . .fRoyal or flowering 
 
 A ^gram m . AdiaDtUm } Black maidenhair. 
 A. Kuta muraria . . Wall-rue fern. 
 
 A. lanceolatum . . . { H “^ r °“’ s s P leen ‘ 
 
 Aspidium Filix femina Lady fern. 
 
 A. Filix mas . . . Male fern. 
 
 A. recurvum . . . Bree's fern. 
 
 A. dilatatum . . . Broad-shield fern. 
 
 A. spinulosum . . . f™^ g ° £the 
 
 All of these, including the Asplenium 
 marinum , are to be found in many 
 parts of Cornwall, particularly in 
 the neighbourhood of Penzance. 
 The botanist, as he rambles round 
 the islands, may also notice the Ar- 
 chill (Rocella tinctoria), a lichen 
 which yields a valuable red dye, and 
 grows abundantly in Scilly. He 
 will find the flora, as well as the 
 topography, of these islands fully 
 described in Mr. North’s ‘ Week in 
 the Isles of Scilly,’ published by 
 Rowe of Penzance, and Longman of 
 London, in 1850. The geology forms 
 the subject of a most interesting 
 paper by Joseph Carne, Esq., printed 
 in the Report of the R. Geol. Soc. of 
 Cornw. for 1850. 
 
 Sect. It. 
 
 St. Mary's (pop. 1532, circumf. 
 about 9 m.) is the principal island, 
 and Hugh Town its capital. ( Inns : 
 Tregar then’s — the best ; Duff’s 
 Hotel). Hugh Town is built on a 
 sandy isthmus which connects 
 a peninsula with St. Mary’s. This 
 peninsula is crowned by Star Castle, 
 at an elevation of 110 ft. above 
 the sea, and was probably the 
 origin of the name of the town, 
 as Borlase tells us that heugh 
 signifies a high piece of land 
 projecting into the water. The town 
 has a pier, re-constructed in 1835-8, 
 and an excellent harbour, called the 
 Pool , bounded N. by Cam Morval, 
 and entered between the Cow and 
 the Calf rocks. The most prominent 
 and interesting building on the island 
 is Star Castle , a fortress erected in 
 the reign of Elizabeth, and probably 
 so named from the star-like form of 
 its walls, which project in eight sa- 
 lient angles. Over the entrance is 
 the date 1593, and the letters E. R. ; 
 in the vicinity of the castle is the 
 Garrison, with its batteries, park, and 
 delightful promenade. (Star Castle 
 was erected by Francis Godolphin, 
 whom Elizabeth knighted in 1580, 
 and made Lord Lieutenant of Corn- 
 wall. The Scilly Islands formed an 
 important station in those days of 
 war with Spain; and the queen 
 specially encouraged Godolphin in 
 his plans for their better protection.) 
 At the E. end of the main street 
 stands th eNew Church , built in 1835, 
 and chiefly at the expense of the 
 present Lord Proprietor. A frag* 
 ment of the Old Church (in which 
 are some curious monuments of the 
 time of the Puritans — particularly 
 one of the Governor of the island 
 during the Commonwealth) is situ- 
 ated J m. from the town, and is still 
 used for the burial service. In the 
 New Church are memorials of those 
 who perished with Sir Cloudesley 
 Shovel, Oct. 22, 1707. This was a 
 melancholy disaster. A fleet, on its 
 return from the siege of Toulon, came 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 473 
 
 Route 29 . — The Stilly Islands . 
 
 unexpectedly upon Scilly, in thick 
 and tempestuous weather. The admi- 
 ral’s ship, the Association, struck the 
 Gilstone Bode, and went to pieces in 
 a few minutes. The Eagle and Bom- 
 ney, line-of-battle ships, shared a 
 similar fate, and only one man was 
 saved out of thesq three ships. He 
 was thrown upon a reef called the 
 Hellweathers , where he was obliged 
 to remain for some days before he 
 could be rescued. The fireships Phoe- 
 nix and Firebrand ran ashore ; the 
 Boyal Anne passed the TrenemerRock 
 so closely that it carried away her 
 quarter gallery ; and the St. George 
 had even a narrower escape. She and 
 the Association struck the Gilstone 
 j together, but the waves which stove 
 in the one floated the other into deep 
 water. 2000 persons perished on 
 this memorable occasion. 
 
 In a walk round St. Mary’s (keep- 
 ing the sea on your rt.) the following 
 points of interest will successively 
 present themselves. — The bay of S. 
 Forcrasa. — Buzza Hill , commanding 
 a beautiful view. The curious name 
 is rendered Bosow by Borlase, and is 
 I said to have been derived from a 
 ; family so called. S.W. of the wind- 
 | mill you will observe a barrow . — 
 
 I Dutchman 9 8 Cam , and beneath it the 
 ! Bluff, a bold rock in the sea. — Penin- 
 nis Head , a magnificent group of 
 rocks, and by far the finest headland 
 in the islands. Here you will par- 
 ticularly notice, on the higher ground, 
 the Kettle and Pans , the largest rock- 
 basins in the W> of England; the 
 Monk's Cowl , a mass of granite a bove 
 an amphitheatre 100 ft. high; the 
 Tooth Bock , or Elephant’s Tusk , S. of 
 the Kettle and Pans, with a rock- 
 basin on its vertical side, a puzzle 
 to those antiquaries who maintain 
 that such cavities were made by the 
 Druids, and once held holy water ; 
 Pitt's Parlour , a small recess under 
 the Tooth Bock ; and beneath the 
 Parlour a deep cleft, into which the 
 sea is perpetually plunging. Here, 
 
 too, the geologist should observe the 
 structure and the weathering of 
 the granite. On the W. side of the 
 headland the joints are so closely ar- 
 ranged as to resemble the cleavage 
 of slate-rock; at Pitt’s Parlour the 
 granite has been divided into cubical 
 blocks by the action of the weather 
 in the vertical and horizontal joints ; 
 andTat another place separated at the 
 vertical joints alone, detached slabs 
 having been formed, which stand on 
 end, and are in some instances united 
 by the centres. — Piper's Hole , a small 
 cavern, containing a spring of fresh 
 water, and roofed with regenerate 
 granite, and which the islanders ab- 
 surdly represent as passing under 
 sea to Piper’s Hole in Tresco. — The 
 Pulpit Bock, a fine example of de- 
 composition in the horizontal joints, 
 with a sounding-board 47 ft. in length 
 by 12 in breadth, to the top of which 
 you should climb. Below, in the sea, 
 is a lonely rock called Carrick- 
 starne ; and on the high ground the 
 Tower, used as a station in the trigo- 
 nometrical survey, and 140 ft. above 
 the level of mean water.— Cam Lea, 
 the W. point of Old T own Bay , de- 
 corated with pillars of granite. At 
 Old Town are some fragments of an 
 ancient castle, and in the neighbour- 
 hood some remains of the Old Church. 
 Ascend Maypole Hill for a view of 
 Holy Vale. — Tolmen Point, the E. 
 termination of Old Town Bay, and 
 so called from a tolmen, or holed stone 
 upon it. — Port Minick, with a white 
 quartzose beach and rocks of red 
 granite. — Blue Cam, the S. point of 
 the island, a wild group of tabular 
 rocks, indented with basins. — The 
 Giant's Castle , a earn anciently forti- 
 fied as a cliff-castle. Here there are 
 numerous rock-basins, and on the W. 
 side of the promontory, near the edge 
 of the cliff, a logan stone , 45 tons in 
 weight, so exactly poised that a child 
 can move it. N., several barrows on 
 the neighbouring hill. — Porth Hel- 
 lick (i. e. cove of willows), the bay 
 in which the body of Sir Cloudesley 
 
474 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. 11. 
 
 Shovel was washed ashore (a patch 
 of shingle, which encroaches on the 
 grassy shore, is shown as his first 
 burial-place. Here it was hidden 
 by the islanders, who had stripped 
 and plundered it. A large emerald 
 ring, known to have been worn by 
 Sir Cloudesley Shovel, was found in 
 the hands of some fishermen, who 
 made prompt confession, and pointed 
 out the resting-place of the body. 
 (See Lord Stanhope’s 4 Queen Anne/ 
 p. 312.) Local tradition describes 
 the Admiral as a monster of cruelty, 
 who hanged a Scillonian for warn- 
 ing him of his danger; as a judg- 
 ment, grass will not grow on his 
 grave. His body was afterwards 
 taken to Plymouth, where it was 
 embalmed, and was then conveyed 
 to his tomb in Westminster Abbey. 
 We may there contemplate with due 
 reverence his effigy, and admire the 
 44 eternal buckle ” of his magnificent 
 periwig). On the W. side of Forth 
 Hellick is the Drum Rock , a reputed 
 tolmen of the Druids, and on the 
 beach some stones of a binary granite 
 (quartz and felspar). On the S. E. 
 side, Dick's Cam , a fine example of 
 decomposition in the horizontal joints 
 of the granite ; and S. E. of Dick’s 
 Carn the Clapper Rocks , on which 
 may be found many of the largest 
 and most curious rock-basins in the 
 island, some formed on the vertical 
 sides, and others on surfaces which 
 are nearly in contact with upper 
 rocks. In Oct. 1810, Forth Hellick 
 bay was the scene of an extraordi- 
 nary escape from shipwreck, when 
 the brig ‘ Nerina/ of Dunkirk, drove 
 into it keel uppermost, having been 
 capsized in the Atlantic two days 
 previously. During this interval four 
 men and a boy, by crouching close 
 to the keelson of the vessel, had con- 
 trived to keep their heads above 
 water, though immersed to the waist, 
 but, fearing that they would be suf- 
 focated for want of air, one worked 
 incessantly for some time to make a 
 hole in the roof. Fortunately this 
 
 purpose, which would have sealed 
 their fate, was prevented by the knife 
 breaking. It is not the least remark- 
 able part of the narrative that two 
 pilot-boats on the afternoon of the 
 second day fell in with the wreck 
 and took it in tow for an hour, when, 
 night approaching, and a heavy sea 
 running, they were obliged to aban- 
 don it. Had it not been for this cir- 
 cumstance, the unfortunate French- 
 men entombed in this floating sepul- 
 chre would have been drifted by the 
 current clear of the islands. S. of 
 this bay, on Sallakee Hill, are two 
 ancient crosses , now part of a stone 
 hedge ; and E., on the high ground, 
 the Giant's Chair , from which, says 
 Borlase, drawing on his imagination 
 as usual, the arch-Druid was ac- 
 customed to watch the rising sun; 
 and the Sun Rock , N. of which (| m.) 
 are three large rock-basins in a cavity 
 where a tool could by no possibility 
 have been used. In this vicinity are 
 several long barrows, known as the 
 Giants' Graves , one of which Bolase 
 opened but found neither bones nor 
 urns.— Deep Point , the easternmost 
 point of the island. — Pellew's Redoubt , 
 named after Lord Exmouth, who, 
 when Capt. Pellew, commanded at 
 the Scilly Islands. — Newquay , on the 
 S. side of Watermill Bay ; and be- 
 tween it and the stream, which here 
 flows to the sea, the porphyritic beds 
 of St. Mary's , a mass of granite which 
 has excited much discussion among 
 geologists, as apparently displaying 
 a distinct stratification. 44 The 
 question at issue,” says Mr. Carne, 
 
 “ is whether the apparent strata are 
 joints, or whether the whole is of 
 slaty structure.” — Pendratlien Quay , 
 and off the shore the Crow Rock , a 
 mark for vessels entering Crow 
 Sound. — lnisidgen Point , the NVE. 
 extremity of the island, crowned by 
 a stone-covered barrow, and interest- 
 ing for its rocks. On this part of 
 the island is the Telegraph , com- 
 manding a panoramic view, the top 
 being 201 ft. above the sea ; N.E. of ; 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 475 
 
 Route 29 . — St. Agnes — Annette . 
 
 it the Longstone , a rock-pillar 9 ft. 
 high ; N., Bant's Cam ; and S.W. of 
 this Carn a barrow roofed with stones. 
 — Carn Morval , N.E. of St. Mary's 
 Pool, a point of view which should 
 not be neglected. — Porthloo Bay , 
 with two island rocks, the northern- 
 most, Taylor's Island , remarkable for 
 a beautiful variety of granite, con- 
 taining prisms of tourmaline in the 
 place of the mica — Permellin Bay 
 (formerly Porth Mellyn), where the 
 beach is almost wholly composed of 
 fine particles of quartz, and near low- 
 water mark streaked by bands of 
 black mica, which was once collected 
 for writing sand. On the hill above 
 the bay are Harry’s Walls , the re- 
 j mains of a fortification commenced 
 in the reign of Hen. VIII., but never 
 finished ; and an isolated rock which 
 has been termed a Druidic idol. 
 The W, point of this bay is Cam 
 Thomas. 
 
 Having completed his survey of 
 St. Mary’s, the stranger will be ready 
 to embark for the other islands, 
 which will be now described in the 
 : : order in which they naturally occur. 
 
 They may be conveniently divided 
 / into 3 separate groups, each of which 
 will be sufficient for one day’s excur- 
 sion. Thus, 1. St. Agnes, Annette, 
 and the rocks further W., commonly 
 known as the Off Islands ; 2. Sam- 
 ‘ son, Bryher, Tresco, and St. Helen’s ; 
 3. St. Martin’s and the Eastern 
 Islands. 
 
 St. Agnes (pop/ 200) is separated 
 from St. Mary’s by St. Mary’s Sound, 
 and, at high-water spring-tides, is 
 divided by the sea into two parts, 
 that on the N.E. being termed the 
 Gugh. Upon this there are several 
 stone-covered barrows ; near the 
 centre a rock-pillar, 9 ft. in length, 
 called the Old Man cutting Turf ; off 
 the N.W. point the Kittern , deserv- 
 ing notice for its picturesque form ; 
 and at the S. extremity, between the 
 Hugh and St. Agnes, the Cove , in 
 
 which the islanders often capture in 
 a single night as many as 40,000 
 fish. In St. Agnes, properly so 
 called, are several interesting points. 
 Proceeding from the Gugh round 
 the S. end of the island, the stranger 
 will be delighted by the beautiful 
 earns of granite, decked with emerald 
 turf, adorning the slopes of the shore. 
 Above St. Warna Bay he should no- 
 tice the Nag's Head , an example of 
 the fantastic effects produced by the 
 abrasion of the prevailing winds. 
 Beyond this bay is the carn of Castle- 
 bean , and then Camberdril Point , re- 
 markable for its pointed rocks. In 
 St. Nicholas or Priglis (Port Eglise) 
 Bay stands the ch., which some 40 
 years ago was erected to supply the 
 place of a smaller building, which is 
 said to have been partly built with 
 salvage-money paid to the islanders 
 for rescuing a French ship from the 
 rocks in 1685. Beyond Priglis Bay 
 is the lighthouse , 72 ft. high, com- 
 manding a beautiful view, and dis- 
 playing a revolving light, which is 
 seen by mariners in connection with 
 the lights on the Seven Stones and 
 Longships; and, lastly, S.E. of the 
 lighthouse, on Wingletang Downs, 
 the Punchboivl Bock, so called from 
 its rock basin, which is nearly 4 ft, 
 in diam. 
 
 Annette (uninhab.) is separated 
 from St. Agnes by Smith’s Sound, 
 which contains the Great Smith and 
 Little Smith. The leading feature 
 of the island is Annette Head , its N.W. 
 extremity. In a westerly direction 
 the rapid tides surge and eddy among 
 innumerable rocks, objects pictures- 
 que and pleasing to tourists wafted 
 round them by a summer breeze, but 
 as terrible when beheld white with 
 foam and cataracts of raging water 
 from the deck of some luckless vessel 
 driving towards the land. They are 
 the “ dogs ” of Scilly, and as fierce 
 as those which howled around the 
 monster of the Italian seas. S. of the 
 island is the reef of the Hdlweathers ; 
 
476 
 
 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzdhce : Sect. II. 
 
 S.W. of this reef, Meledgan , and be- 
 yond Meledgan Gorregan; W. of 
 Gorregan, Bosevean and Bosevear ; 
 and S.W. of these the Gilstone , on 
 which Sir Cloudesley Shovel was 
 wrecked. N.W. of Eosevear Great 
 and Little Crebaicetlian, memorable 
 for the loss of the ‘ Douro,’ with all 
 hands, in Jan. 1843; and between 
 Crebawethan and Eosevear, Jacky s 
 Bock , the scene of the destruction of 
 the ‘ Thames * steamer in 1841, when 
 only 4 persons were saved out of 65. 
 N. of Crebawethan are the Gunner , 
 Nundeeps , and Crim Bocks , treache- 
 rous ledges, which have abruptly 
 closed the career of many a gallant 
 seaman : and W. of all, the Bishop 
 Bock (7 m. from H. Town), standing 
 sentinel, as it were, to this formidable 
 host, but at high water immersed to 
 the chin. It is now crowned by a 
 granite lighthouse, a triumph of the 
 engineering skill and perseverance 
 of Mr. Walker (engineer of the 
 Trinity Board), who had previously 
 attempted to build one of a different 
 material. This was to have been 
 formed of cast-iron columns, sunk in 
 the rock, and stayed to each other 
 by rods of wrought iron; and had 
 been nearly completed in 1850, when 
 it totally disappeared in a terrible 
 gale which arose on the night of 
 Feb. 5, simultaneously with an erup- 
 tion of Vesuvius. The present 
 structure was then planned, but it 
 was the work of 2 years to lay the 
 foundation stone. It was placed at 
 the level of low water and on a 
 sunken rock fully exposed to the 
 restless roll of the Atlantic, and cost 
 36,000L It is probably the most 
 exposed lighthouse in the world. 
 The lighthouse is 145 ft. high. Such 
 is, occasionally, the force of the 
 waves that in the winters of 1859-60 
 the fog-bell at the top, weighing 
 3 cwt., was swept away and dashed 
 to pieces by a storm wave. 
 
 Samson (now uninhabited). In 
 his passage across the Eoad the 
 
 voyager will observe the Nut Bock , 
 the mark for the principal anchorage. 
 On the W. side of Samson are several 
 rugged islets, and, in particular, 
 Stilly, which gives name to the 
 whole archipelago. W. is Mincarlo ; 
 further W. Maiden Bower; N. of 
 Mincarlo, Stilly , divided in two 
 parts by a chasm ; and S. of Mincarlo 
 Great and Little Minalto. Nearer the 
 shore are Gweal , an islet of 8 acres, 
 with a tenantry of gulls ; and Castle 
 Bryher , some 90 ft. high, a rock 
 rising conspicuously above all the 
 others. Samson , so called from the 
 Cornish saint Samson, who became 
 Abp. of Dol, consists of 2 hills, re- 
 sembling in form the back of a camel. 
 In this island, Mr. A. Smith, in Sept. 
 1862, opened a large barrow (58 
 yards incircumf.), which yielded the 
 only perfect kistvaen known to exist 
 in Cornwall. (There are many grave 
 mounds which have contained kist- 
 vaens on others of the Scilly Islands, 
 but in all cases these had been 
 opened before, and the kistvaens 
 shattered.) A circle of stones formed 
 the outer circumference, within 
 which a mound of earth and small 
 stones were raised. About 20 ft. of 
 the mound being removed, the ex- 
 cavators came first to a covering of 
 small, and next of larger stones. 
 “ The large upright stones forming 
 the vault were at last reached, and 
 found to be covered by a huge block 
 of stone about 5 ft. 6 in. in diameter. 
 The massive monolith being removed, 
 disclosed an oblong stone chest, 
 having on the floor a little heap of 
 bones, piled together in one corner. 
 The bones were taken out, and found 
 to be fragments of the upper and 
 lower jaw-bones of a man about 60, 
 and remains of teeth, some of them 
 in the sockets. The bones had 
 been all subject to the action of fire. 
 The bottom of the sarcophagus was 
 neatly fitted with a pavement of lint 
 irregular-shaped stones, the joints 
 being fitted with clay mortar. The 
 side stones were also cemented to- 
 
Cornwall. 
 
 477 
 
 Route 29 . — Bryher — Tresco. 
 
 gether, and the lid was neatly fixed 
 with the same kind of plaster, show- 
 ing that it could never have been 
 disturbed from the time of its con- 
 struction. The side stones were 
 from 7 to 9 ft. in length and 2 ft. in 
 depth and the 2 stones forming the 
 ends were about 3} ft. wide. No 
 burial barrow of similar construction 
 remains to be discovered in the 
 island, and this single instance, 
 where burning of the body had been 
 resorted to, raises an interesting 
 question as to the race to which the 
 remains ought to be ascribed.” — 
 Gent. Mag., July 1863, p. 54. 
 There were until about 1860 several 
 families on the island, 44 but it would 
 now furnish a worthy theme for 
 another 4 Deserted Village,’ or per- 
 haps for a 4 Deserted Island.’ The 
 houses are still standing in various 
 stages of decay, some of them com- 
 posed of large stones, and built in a 
 primitive style of architecture, re- 
 sembling a reproduction in miniature 
 of some ancient Egyptian work. 
 The only present inhabitants are 
 deer, and black and white rabbits.” 
 — L’Estrange, 1854. The cause of 
 this wholesale 4 ‘ eviction” is said to 
 
 I have been smuggling — not at all an 
 unlikely one. 
 
 The only act incumbent on a 
 visitor to Samson is to ascend to its 
 highest point for the sake of the 
 view ; but those who delight in cliff- 
 scenery will of course ramble round 
 the island and peer into its numerous 
 I Qavernous recesses. 
 
 Bryher (pop. 115), a wild and 
 rugged island, derives its name from 
 bre , an old Cornish word signifying 
 a hill. Its highest lands are happily 
 on the W. side, for they add much 
 interest to the deep romantic bays 
 which the stormy Atlantic has exca- 
 vated on that side. On the S. is 
 Gweal, to which you may walk dry- 
 shod at low tides ; on the N.W. a 
 spring of fresh water on the shore ; 
 and N. the promontory of Shipman 
 
 Head , one of the finest among the 
 islands ; it is about 60 ft. high, and 
 separated from the mainland by a 
 deep and fearful chasm, hedged in 
 by precipices. The N.E. side of the 
 island forms with Tresco the harbour 
 of New Grimsby , whose leading fea- 
 tures are a rock in mid-channel, 
 called Hangman’s Isle and Cromwell’s 
 Castle on the opposite shore. Before 
 you leave Bryher yon should ascend 
 Watch Hill . 
 
 Tresco (pop. 399), second only to 
 St. Mary’s in point of size, is the 
 first island in dignity, being the re- 
 sidence of the Lord Proprietor, whose 
 mansion occupies the site of the 
 ancient Abbey of Tresco, which was 
 founded as early as the 10th centy., 
 and annexed to Tavistock Abbey in 
 the reign of Hen. I. In front of the 
 house is a delightful terrace, and 
 above it a hill which commands a 
 panoramic view of the islands. With 
 Mr. Smith’s permission the stranger 
 should visit the gardens, which 
 strikingly illustrate the genial and 
 equable nature of the climate, and 
 contain, in addition to their rich 
 store of plants, some remains of the 
 old Abbey-ch., consisting of walls of 
 granite and arches of a red arena- 
 ceous stone supposed to have been 
 brought from Normandy, the whole 
 mantled with geraniums. Here, too, 
 are the Abbey ponds , covering 50 
 acres. These gardens are well worth 
 a visit. The rocks are covered with 
 large plants of the Cape Fig mari- 
 gold, and Mesembryanthemums of 
 various colours. There are hedges 
 of Geraniums above 6 ft. high, and 
 amongst plants rare to find out of 
 doors are the Camphor laurel, differ- 
 ent species of Eurybia, Acacia lophan- 
 tha, and the Peruvian Gunera scabra. 
 The Norfolk Island pine, Araucaria 
 excelsa, lived out for about 5 years, 
 but died at last. Some large Aloes 
 by the ruins of the abbey make a 
 very striking feature; some 24-lb. 
 round shot are also piled up here: 
 
478 Route 29 . — Excursions from Penzance : Sect. II. 
 
 they were discovered in removing 
 the rubbish while clearing the ruins. 
 At the end of one of the walks is 
 placed the old fire-basket by which 
 „ the light at St. Agnes was exhibited. 
 Ostriches (Rhea Americana) run 
 about the grounds, and their eggs 
 are used by the inhabitants and 
 visitors of the abbey. The golden 
 oriole has been known to build its 
 nest in these gardens. The road 
 from the abbey to the village — which 
 is, in part, called Dol/pilin , probably 
 a corruption of Godolphin, after the 
 name of the family who so long rented 
 these islands — commands a beautiful 
 view of Shipman’s Head, and, on a 
 stormy day, of the huge billows leap- 
 ing its rocks. This headland is well 
 seen, too, from Charles’s Castle , a ruin 
 on the W. side of the island, 155 ft. 
 above the sea, and immediately over 
 Oliver Cromwell’s Castle , a circular 
 tower with walls 12 ft. thick. At 
 the N.E. point of the island is Piper’s 
 Hole , a deep cavern, whose recesses 
 may be explored for a distance of 
 600 ft. ; but a torch and a boat will 
 be required, for the cavern contains 
 a pool of fresh water which varies in 
 size, but is often nearly 200 ft. 
 across. The roof is extremely in- 
 teresting. It is formed entirely of 
 regenerate granite, and in this are 
 imbedded large boulders of the ori- 
 ginal rock. There are other caverns 
 in the vicinity of this Hole, and par- 
 ticularly the Gun, which contains a 
 spring or well of fresh water. Off 
 the N. side of Tresco lie Nortliwithiol , 
 and many picturesque rocks. Mena - 
 vawr (corrupted into “ Man-of-War”) 
 is, perhaps, the most beautiful of 
 all the islets of Scilly (especially 
 when seen from the N.), rising in 
 three distinct peaks, 139 ft. above the 
 sea. Pound Island also presents an 
 imposing group of earns. It is 18 
 ft. higher than Menavawr, and the 
 chosen haunt of puffins. On the E. 
 side of Tresco are the harbour of Old 
 Grimsby and the battery of the Old 
 Blockhouse ; and off the S. side of the 
 
 island a rock called the Mare , bear- 
 ing some resemblance to the head 
 and neck of a horse. 
 
 St. Helen’s (called St. Elid’s by 
 Borlase) adjoins Tresco, and is an 
 uncultivated island stocked with deer 
 and goats, the only building upon it 
 being the Pest House , which has sel- 
 dom an occupant. You should make 
 the circuit of this island. The rocks 
 are fine, and on the N. side is a long 
 and deep chasm, perpetually rever- 
 berating the dismal sound of the 
 sea. 
 
 Tean, between St. Helen’s and St. 
 Martin’s, is a warren of white rab- 
 bits, and principally remarkable for 
 the beauty of its bays. You will 
 notice a rock called Penbrose to the 
 N. of it. 
 
 St. Martin’s (pop. 185) has several 
 points of interest. At its S. E. ex- 
 tremity are the Higher Town , Cm- 
 Ihers Bay , and Cruther’s Hill , some 
 70 ft. above the sea; and on the 
 S. and W. coasts St. Martin’s Flats , 
 which should be diligently searched 
 for shells. At the W. end Tincklers 
 Point , bearing a so-called Druidic 
 idol, and near it the remains of 2 
 sacred circles. On the N.W., Per - 
 nagie Isle , and Plumb Island , and the 
 Lion Pock , all accessible from the 
 land at low water. N., St. Martin’s 
 Bay and White Island , which is con- 
 nected with St. Martin’s at low tide, 
 and has a deep cavern (or old tin- 
 mine) on its E. side. E., St. Mar- 
 tin’s Head , 160 ft. high, crowned by 
 the Day Mark , and commanding the 
 most beautiful and extraordinary 
 sight in these seas — the whole cluster 
 of those numberless, fantastic, many- 
 coloured rocks which are known as 
 the Eastern Islands. The most north- 
 erly of these is Han j ague, or the 
 Sugarloaf (due E. of St. Martin’s 
 Head), rising abruptly to a height of 
 83 ft. from_a depth of 25 fath . ; the 
 next to the N., Nortor an islet of 3 
 
Cornwall. Route 29.— 
 
 acres, distinguished by as many rocky 
 points. Great Ganniley is the largest 
 of the group, 107 ft. high, and con- 
 nected at low water with Little Gan- 
 niley , and with Great and Little Lnis- 
 vouls. Near them is Ragged Island , of 
 a wasted form ; and S.W. Menewetlian , 
 a noble granite pile, 47 ft. above the 
 mean level of the sea. Great and Little 
 Arthur are further interesting for 
 their ancient barrows, protected by, 
 
 St. Martins. 479 
 
 slabs of granite ; and Great and Little 
 Ganniornie of some importance for 
 their size. From the heights of these 
 islands, or from St. Martin’s Head, 
 you will observe to the N. a line of 
 foam, which marks the dangerous 
 reef called the Seven Stones ; this is 
 situated about 9 m. from Scilly (13J 
 from Hugh Town), and is pointed 
 out to mariners by a lightship. 
 
 Index. 
 
( 480 ) 
 
 ABBOTSHAM. 
 
 A. 
 
 Abbotsham Court, 266. 
 Acland, 264. 
 
 Acton Castle, 436. 
 
 Adams the astronom er, 
 birthplace, 309. 
 
 Adit, the Great, 399. 
 
 Advent, 312, 318. 
 
 Affeton Barton, 256. 
 
 Agnes, St., 374. In Scilly, 475, 
 Agnes’ Beacon, St., 374. 
 
 Aire, 460. 
 
 A-la-Ronde, 68. 
 
 Albert Bridge, 134, 338. 
 Aldercombe, 397. 
 
 Alignments, xxi. 
 
 Alphington, 88. 
 
 Alternun, 308. 
 
 Alverton, 419. 
 
 Alvington, East, 243. West, 
 242. 
 
 Alwington, 287. 
 
 Amalebria, 444. 
 
 Amalveor, 444. 
 
 Amal-widden, 444. 
 
 Amicombe Hill, 221. 
 Amphitheatres, 374,429, 453. 
 Anchor Stone, 104. 
 
 Anguidal Down, 450. 
 
 Annery, 260. 
 
 Annette, 475. Head, ^75. 
 Anstis Cove, 171. 
 
 Anthony, St., 404. In Me- 
 neage, St., 4*2. 
 
 Anthracite beds, 266. 
 Antiquities, xviii. 
 
 Antony, 375. In East, 344. 
 
 House, 134, 341. 
 
 Appledore, 269. 
 
 Apron-string, 427. 
 
 Archerton, 212. 
 
 Arish-mows, lxvii. 
 
 Arlington, 283. Court, 264. 
 Armed Knight, 459, 461. 
 Arthur, Great and Little, 479. 
 Arthur, King, birthplace, 
 323. Legends, 326, 337. 
 Arthur’s Bed, 348. Cups and 
 Saucers, 325. Grave, 317. 
 Hall, 310. Hunting-Seat, 
 H7- 
 
 Arvvenack, 402. 
 
 Ashburton, 201, 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 BATTEN. 
 
 Ashcombe, 94. 
 
 Ashe, 43. 
 
 Ash Hole, 177. 
 
 Ashley Combe, 275. 
 
 Ashton, 194. 
 
 Asparagus Island, 427. 
 Atherington, 258. 
 
 Atterey Valley, the, 240. 
 
 River 304. 
 
 Austell, St., 362, 
 
 Austin’s Bridge, 103, 196. 
 Auswell Tor, 203. 
 
 Avenues, Druidic, xxiii, 109, 
 152, 159, 160, 218, 226, 348. 
 Aveton Giffard, 244. 
 
 Avon valley, 243. 
 Awliscombe, 46. 
 
 Axe, river, 41,44. Valley, 60. 
 Axminster, 41. Carpets, 41. 
 Tradition, history, minster, 
 41. Excursions, 43. 
 
 to Exeter, by rail, 44. 
 
 By road, 55. 
 
 Axmouth, 55. 
 
 B. 
 
 Babbacombe, 171. 
 
 Babbage, Cbas., birthplace, 98. 
 Badcock, Samuel, birthplace, 
 
 257. 
 
 Badgery Water, 274. 
 
 Bagtor, 146. 
 
 Bairdown, 214. Man, 215. 
 
 Tor, 215. 
 
 Bake, 343. 
 
 Balleswidden Mine, lvii, 453. 
 Bampton, 298. 
 
 to Holsworthy, 298. 
 
 Bantham, 190. 
 
 Bant’s Carn, 475. 
 
 Barbrick Mill, 272. 
 
 Barclay, Alex., his prebend, 50. 
 Barle valley, 278. River, 278, 
 Barlinch Abbey, 301. 
 Barnstaple, 261. Stat., 261. 
 
 Fair, 263. 
 
 Barricane, 286. 
 
 Barrow Down, 366. 
 
 Bartind, 452. 
 
 Basil's Well, 308. 
 
 Basset’s Cove, 407 
 Bassett Park, 68. 
 
 Batten Cliffs, 376. 
 
 bishop's TAWTON. 
 
 Beaches, ancient, xliii. 
 Beacon, the, 68, 182. Hill, 64, 
 355 , 396 . 
 
 Beam Mine, 364. 
 
 Beasands, 184. 
 
 Beast Point, 430. 
 
 Beckamoor Cross, 237. 
 
 Becky Fall, 147. 
 
 Bector Cross, 206. 
 
 Bedford mines, 237. 
 
 Beech wood House, 109. ’ 
 Beer, 57. Head, 58. quarry. 
 58 . 
 
 Beer Alston, 135, 233. Fer- 
 rers, 237, 238. 
 
 Beggar’s Island, 341. 
 
 Belidden Amphitheatre, 429. 
 Bellamine’s Tor, 315. 
 
 Believer Tor, 212. 
 
 Bellurian Cove, 426. 
 
 Belovely Beacon, 316. 
 Belstone, 75, 81. Cleave, 81. 
 Tor, 81. 
 
 Benjie Tor, 198. 
 
 Bennet’s Monastery, St., 316. 
 Benson’s Cave, 292. 
 
 Berry Court, 395. Head, 167. 
 176. House, 59. Pound, 
 
 1 5 1. Tower, 354. 
 Berrynarbor, 282. 
 
 Berry Pomeroy Castle, 100. 
 Bessie’s Cove, 436. 
 
 Bickington House, 264. 
 Bickleigh, 39, 138, 223. 
 
 Bridge, 39, 223. Court, 39. 
 Vale, 138, 218, 222. Stat., 
 222. 
 
 Bicton, 65. 
 
 Bideford, 264. Bay, 288. 
 Bigadon, 196, 198. 
 
 Bigbury, 245. Bay, 189, 246. 
 Biggletubben, 444. 
 
 Bindon, 57. 
 
 Binhamy, 394. 
 
 Birds, collections of, 87, 120, 
 133, 241, 369,416. Of Dart- 
 moor, 21 1. 
 
 Biscovey, 362. 
 
 Bishop Rock, in Scilly, 476. 
 
 J11 Mount’s Bay, 434. 
 Bishop’s Court, 69. 
 
 Bishop’s Nympton, 257. 
 Bishop’s Palace, 192. 
 
 Bishop’s Tawton, 260. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 481 
 
 bishop’s teignton. 
 
 Bishop’s Teignton, 94. 
 Bishopstowe, rji. 
 
 Bitton House, 94. 
 
 Blachford, 108. 
 
 Blackadon Rings, 3 44. 
 Blackadown, 252. 
 
 Blackaven, 81. 
 
 Blackabrook, 215, 218. 
 Blackdown, 47. 
 
 Blackbrook, the, 208. 
 Blackbury Castle, 64. 
 
 Black Down Hills, 3. 47, 84. 
 Black Head, 384, 431. 
 
 Black Jack, lvii. 
 
 Black Pit, 321. Pits, 277. 
 Blackpool, 184. 
 
 Black Rock, 192, 403. 
 
 Black Tor, 218. Great, 79. 
 Blake, Adm., birthplace, 2. 
 Blanch-down Wood, 235. 
 Blank’s Mill, 190. 
 
 Blazey, St., 359. Gate, 362. 
 Bleu Bridge, 447. 
 
 Blisland, 315. 
 
 Bloody Corner, 270. 
 Blow-holes, 336, 427. 
 
 Blue Anchor, 297. 
 
 Blue Carn, 473. 
 
 Bluff, the, 47 3. 
 
 Boconnoc, 358. Cross, 356. 
 Bodennar, 449. 
 
 Bodley, Sir Thomas, birth- 
 place, 12. 
 
 Bodmin, 315, 352. Moors, 
 308. Road stat., 316, 352. 
 Bodrigan’s Leap, 385. 
 Bodruthan Steps, 335- 
 Bolbury Down, 189. 
 
 Bolerium (ancient), 458. 
 Bolham House, 39. 
 
 Bolleit, 465, 467. 
 
 Bolt Head, 188. Tail, 189. 
 Bone, Henry, birthplace, 370. 
 Boniface, St., birthplace, 250. 
 Boringdon House, 1 12, 223. 
 Borlase, Dr., birthplace, 456. 
 
 Grave, 413. 
 
 Borough, 267. 
 i Bosahan House, 432. 
 j Boscarne, 3 56. 
 
 1 Boscastle, 319. 
 j Boscawen Un Circle, 458. 
 iBoskednan Circle, 450. 
 
 | Boskemna, 468. 
 i Bosphrennis, 447. 
 
 : Bossiney, 323. Hole, 323. 
 
 | Bossington Hill, 275, 276, 
 j 298. 
 
 Bostrea, 453. 
 
 1 Boswavas Carn, 420. Moor, 
 45°. 
 
 Boswedden Mine, 455. 
 iBotallack Mine, 455. 
 i Bottor Rock, 148. 
 jBottreanx, 320. 
 jBotus Fleming, 387. 
 
 I [Dev. Corn.~] 
 
 BROWN GILLY. 
 
 Boulder-stones, 360. 
 Boundary-lines, xxv. 
 Bounding, the right of, xlvii. 
 Bovey Brook, 149. Church, 
 142. Coal, 143. Heath- 
 field, 143. House, 58, 
 Tracey, 141. 
 
 Bovisand, 132. 
 
 Bow, 71. 
 
 Bowcombe Creek, 242. 
 Bowden, 100, 282. 
 Bowerman’s Nose, 147. 
 Bowethick Quarry, 327. 
 Bowringsleigh, 242. 
 
 Braddoc Church, 35 9. Down, 
 35 2. 
 
 Braddons, 165. 
 
 Bradfield Hall, 5. 
 
 Bradley Manor-house, 96. 
 Bradmere Pool, 157. 
 Bradninch, 6. House, 6. 
 Brads tone Manor-house, 87, 
 
 234. 
 
 Brampford Speke, 249. 
 Branscombe,58. Lace manu- 
 facture, 59. Mouth, 58. 
 Braunton, 286. Burrows, 287. 
 Bray Hill, 332. 
 
 Bray, Mrs., 232. 
 
 Breage, 434. 
 
 Brendon, 274. Valley, 274. 
 Brent, South, 105. Stat., 105. 
 
 Tor, 85, 105, 204. 
 
 Brent Tor, North, 85. 
 Breock,St., 330. Downs, 333. 
 Breward, St., 311. 
 
 Bridestow, 87. 
 
 Bridford, 194. 
 
 Bridge, the longest in Eng- 
 land, 93. 
 
 Bridgend, 246. 
 
 Bridgerule, 302. 
 
 Bridges, British, xxv, 154, 
 162, 212, 215, 279. 
 
 Bridges rocks, 454. 
 Bridgewater, 2. 
 
 Brier Cave, 283. 
 
 Brisons rocks, 454. 
 
 Britannia, 258. 
 
 Brixham, 175. Quay, 176. 
 Broadbury, 87. 
 Broadhembury, 47. 
 
 Broad Clyst stat., 53. 
 
 Broad Down, 64. 
 
 Broad Nymet, 72. 
 
 Broadoak Down, 352. 
 Brockedon, the Alpine tra- 
 veller, where bom, 99. 
 Brooke, Sir James, his tomb, 
 227. 
 
 Brookhill, 182. 
 
 Brothers of Grugith, 431. 
 Browda, 392. 
 
 Browne the poet, birthplace, 
 232 
 
 Brown Gilly, ?i2. Willy, 309. 
 
 CALLIQUOITER. 
 
 Brunenburgh, battle of, 42. 
 Brushford, 256. 
 
 Bryant, Jacob, birthplace, 
 n 5- 
 
 Bryher, 477. 
 
 Brynn, 35 6. 
 
 Brynsworthy, 264. 
 
 Buckfast Abbey, ruins of, 
 196. Modem, 197. 
 Buckfastleigh, 196. 
 
 Buckish Mill, 287. 
 
 Buckland, 203. Abbey, 234. 
 
 Beacon, 204. House, 204. 
 Buckland, Dr., birthplace, 42. 
 Buckland Brewer, 302. Mo- 
 nachorum, 235. On the 
 Moor, 203. West, 257. 
 Bude Canal, 393. Haven, 
 3 95. 
 
 Budeaux, St., 138. 
 
 Budgell, Eustace, birthplace, 
 12. 
 
 Budleigh, East, 66. Salter- 
 ton, 67. 
 
 Budock Bottom, 405. 
 Budocksheds, 138. 
 
 Buller, Judge, birthplace, 
 378. 
 
 Bull’s Hole, 188. 
 
 Bulverton Hill, 63. 
 
 Bumble Rock, 429. 
 Bundleigh, 72. 
 
 Burdon, 302. 
 
 Burlescombe, 3. 
 
 Burlowena, 419. 
 
 Burncoose, 407. 
 
 Burnham, 2. ! 
 
 Burning-house, Iv. 
 
 Burrator, 227. 
 
 Burr Island, 190. 
 
 Bury, 255. Down, 352. 
 Buryan, St., 464. 
 
 Buryas Bridge, 457. 
 
 Butter Stone, 220. 
 
 Buzza Hill, 473. 
 
 Bystock, 68. 
 
 C. 
 
 Cad, Valley of, 224, 225. 
 
 River, 224, 226. 
 
 Cadaford Bridge, 224. 
 Cadbury Castle, 40, 
 Cadgewith, 430. 
 
 Cadhay, 53. , 
 
 Cadoc, St., 382. 
 
 Cadover Lane, 103. Hill, 103 
 Caer Bran Castle, 452. 
 Caerthillian, 428. 
 
 Cairns, 75, 107, 226. 
 
 Cairn Uny, 452. 
 
 Calenick, 370. 
 
 Calleon Cove, 431. 
 
 Callington, 390, 
 
 Calliquoiter Rock, 317. 
 
 Y 
 
482 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 CALSTOCK. 
 
 CHUDLEIGH. 
 
 COLYTON. 
 
 Calstock, 135. 
 
 Camberdrill Point, 475. 
 Camborne, 408. 
 
 Camel, river, 312, 318. Flood 
 of, 312. Valley, 312, 33 o. 
 Camelford, 3 17. Excursions 
 from, 318. 
 
 Camps, xxv. 
 
 Canal, Exeter ship, 35. 
 
 , Grand Western, 37. 
 
 , Tavistock, 2j 3. 
 
 Cann Quarry, 223. 
 
 Canon teign House, 194. 
 Canyke Castle, 355. 
 
 Cape Cornwall, 454. 
 
 Capstone Hill, 285. 
 
 Caradon Hill, 344. Mines, 
 145 * 146 . 
 
 Carboniferous rocks, xxxviii. 
 Carclaze Mine, 364. 
 
 Carclew, 370, 399, 404. 
 Cardinham Bury, 315. 
 
 Car evr, Bamfylde Moore, 
 birthplace, 39. Grave, 39. 
 Carhayes Castle, 38?. 
 Carmears Valley, 360. 
 Carnanton, 334. 
 
 Carnbeak, 322. 
 
 Carn Barges, 460. 
 
 ■ Barra, 462. 
 
 Beacon, 387. 
 
 Boscawen, 468. 
 
 Brawse, 462. 
 
 Castlebean, 475. 
 
 ■ Crease, 460. 
 
 Creis, 461. 
 
 Galva, 451. 
 
 • Glos, 460. 
 
 — — Greeb, 461. 
 
 Kei, 46c. 
 
 • Kenidjack, 453, 456. 
 
 Kreigle, 460. 
 
 Lea, 473. 
 
 ■ Leskez, 460. 
 
 Marth, 407. 
 
 Mellyn, 460, 462. 
 
 — — Menelez, 407V 
 
 • Morval, 472, 475. 
 
 01 va, 460. 
 
 Pendover, 462. 
 
 Scathe, 462. 
 
 • Thomas, 475. 
 
 Top, 286. 
 
 • To wan, 460, 
 
 Venton, 460. 
 
 Vessacks, 462. 
 
 Voel, 461. 
 
 e Wethan, 460. 
 
 Cam-brea, 408. 
 
 Carnmenellis, 399. 
 
 Camon, 399. 
 
 Cams, lxvi. 
 
 Carnsew, 412. 
 
 Carpenter, Nath., birthplace, 
 h-302. 
 
 Carpet manufacture, 41. 
 
 Carrick roadstead, 370, 403. 
 Carrickgloose Head, 454. 
 Carrickstarne, 473. 
 Carrington the poet, birth- 
 place, 1 13. 
 
 Carters, the, 336. 
 Carthamartba Rocks, 370, 392 
 Carvedras, 370. 
 
 Car wen, 315. 
 
 Carwinnen Cam, 409. Crom- 
 lech, 409. 
 
 Cassiterides, ancient, 470. 
 Castell-an-Dinas,3i6, 337,419, 
 44 ?. 
 
 Castle Bryher, 476. Cam-brea, 
 408. Dike, 193. Ditch, 92. 
 Dour, 384. Hill, 43, 257. 
 385. Horneck, 419, 456. 
 Point, 396. Rock, 273. 
 Castles, xxx, xxxi. 
 Catchfrench, 341, 344. 
 Catherine’s Tor, St., 296. 
 Caton, 108. 
 
 Cattle, lxx. 
 
 Cat water, the, 136. 
 
 Caverns, xliii. 
 
 Caves, xxv. 
 
 Cawsand, 376. Bay, 376. 
 
 Beacon, 75, 79, 157, 221. 
 Chacewater, 405. 
 Chaddlewood, 112. 
 
 Chagford, 153. 
 
 Chair Ladder, 461. 
 
 Chair rock, 429. 
 
 Chalk-cliff, the most western 
 in England, 56. 
 
 Chalk formation, xliii. 
 Challacombe Down, 152. 
 Chamber Combe, 283. 
 
 Chapel Carn-bre, 452. Uny, 
 452. Ford, 81. Point, 384. 
 Rock, 39?. 
 
 Chapman Barrows, 276. 
 Charles’s Castle, 478. 
 Charlestown, 363. 
 
 Charleton Church, 242. 
 
 Chase House, the, 204. 
 Cheesewring, 273, 346. 
 Cheriton Bishop, 74. Cross, 
 74 - 
 
 Cherry bridge, 272. 
 Cherrybrook, the, 208. 
 
 Chick, islet, 336. 
 
 Chimney Rock, 233, 273, 391. 
 China-clay works, 109, 225, 
 364. 
 
 Chinehead, 49. 
 
 Chineway Head, 64. 
 Chittaford Tor, 213. 
 Chittlehampton, 258. 
 Chivelstone, 243. 
 Cholwich-town, 108. 
 
 Choughs, lxvi. 
 
 Christow, 194. 
 
 Chudleigh, 191. Rock, T92. 
 Fort, 265. 
 
 Chulmleigh, 256. 
 
 Chun Castle, 449. Cromlech, 
 „ 449 . 
 
 Church architecture, xxvi. 
 Churchstow, 241, 244. 
 Church-towns, lxvii. 
 Churston Court, 175. 
 
 Ferrers, 175. 
 
 Chyandour, 438. Brook, 438. 
 Chysawster, 448. 
 
 Chywoon Castle, 449. 
 
 Cider, lxiii. 
 
 Circles, Druidical, xxi, 75, 81, 
 107, 145, 158, 159. 160, 
 i6r, 199, 212, 217, 218, 220. 
 226, 310, 3 1 5, 346, 348, 378, 
 457 > 458, '468, 476, 478. 
 Clapper Rocks, 474. 
 Classenwell Pool, 218, 228. 
 Clayhanger, 299. 
 
 Cleer, St., 349. Down, 349. 
 Well, 349. 
 
 Cleeve Abbey, ruins, 296. 
 Clement’s, St., 370. Isle, 469. 
 Clerk Rock, 92, 93. 
 
 Clether, St., 308. 
 
 Clicker Tor, 344, 346. 
 Cliff-castles, xxv. 
 
 Clifford Bridge, 141. 
 
 Cligga Head, 374. 
 
 Climate, lxix. Of Dartmoor, 
 210. 
 
 Clocombe House, 43. 
 
 Clouted cream, lxiv. 
 
 Clovelly, 288. Court, 289. 
 
 Cross, 293. Dikes, 293. 
 Clowance, 409. 
 
 Clyfton, 387. 
 
 Clyst, river, 69. 
 
 St. George, 70. 
 
 St. Mary, 70. 
 
 Heath, 70. 
 
 Coaxdon, 44. 
 
 Cob, lxiv. 
 
 Cober stream, 423. 
 Cockington, 173. 
 
 Cock’s Tor, 220. 
 
 Coddon Hill, 263. 
 
 Cofton Chapel, 91. 
 
 Coham, 302. 
 
 Coinage towns, xlvii, lvi. 
 Colan, 337 . 
 
 Colcombe Castle, 44, 61. 
 Coldharbour, 444. 
 
 Coldrinick, 343 , 344* 
 
 Coleridge the poet, birthplace, 
 50. 
 
 Coleridge, 255. House, 185. 
 Collacombe Barton, 234. 
 Colleton Barton, 256. 
 Collipriest, 39. 
 
 Columb Major, St., 31 b 
 Minor, St., 336. Portb, j 
 336. 
 
 Colyford, 56. 
 
 Col y ton, 60. Stat. 44. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 483 
 
 COMBE. 
 
 Combe, 301. Park, 277. Val- 
 ley, 297. 
 
 Combe Martin, 280. Silver- 
 lead mines, 280. Bay, 282. 
 Combe .Royal, 244. 
 Combe-in-Teignbead, 94. 
 Combehead, 299, 300. 
 Compass Point, 396. 
 
 Compton Castle, 173. 
 Consolidated Mines, lvii, 
 407. Eowey, 361. Gwen- 
 nap, 407. Par, 361. 
 Constantine, St., 332. Quar- 
 ries, 400. 
 
 Conveyances from London, 2. 
 Cook, Sam., artist, 116. 
 Cook’s Kitchen, 406. 
 
 Cook worthy, Wm., birth- 
 place, 242. 
 
 Coplestone Cross, 254. Stat. 
 254- 
 
 Coplestone oak, 135. 
 
 Copper, history, xlviii. 
 Lodes, xlix. Mining, 1 . 
 Ores, xlviii. 
 
 Cormorants, Ixvi., 478. 
 Cornish chough, lxvi. Dia- 
 mond,- 328. Heath, 424. 
 Language, lxxi. Pebble, 
 421. Proverbs, 376, 386. 
 Toasts, lviii, lxi. 
 
 Cornwall, Duchy of, lxxiii. 
 Cornwood, 109. 
 
 Corn worthy Priory, 103. 
 
 Cory rivulet, 43. 
 
 Coryton Ball, 107. 
 
 House, 43. 
 
 Station, 240. 
 
 Cosdon, 75. 
 
 Cotford, 63. 
 
 Cothele, 388. 
 
 Cotley Camp, 140. 
 
 Cotmaton Hall, 65. 
 
 Couch, Jonathan, birthplace, 
 380. 
 
 Council Barrow, 315. 
 Countesbury, 272. 
 
 Countess Weir, 35, 69. 
 
 Court Hall, 63, 257. House, 
 
 „ 25 7 * 
 
 Courtlands, 68. 
 
 Cove, the, 475. 
 
 C'overack Cove, 431. 
 
 Cow and Calf Rocks, 472. 
 Cowel, the, 415. 
 
 Cowley, Hannah, birthplace, 
 „ 37 - 
 
 Cowsic, river, 215. 
 
 Crackington Cove, 321, 322, 
 396. 
 
 Cramber Tor, 219. 
 
 Cranbrook Castle, 155. 
 Cranmere Pool, 75, 80, 162, 
 221. 
 
 Cranmore, 37. 
 
 Cran tock, 337. Bay, 3 36. 
 
 DARTMOUTH. 
 
 Creacombe, 256. 
 
 Crebawethan, Great and 
 Little, 476. 
 
 Crediton, 250. Trade, 250. 
 Church, 251. Schools, 252. 
 
 Creedy Park, 251. River, 6, 
 41, 253. Vale, 249. 
 
 Creggan Moor, 361. 
 
 Crellas, 449. . 
 
 Crick-stone, the, 450. 
 
 Crim Rock, 476. 
 
 Crip Tor, 217. 
 
 Crocadon House, 388. 
 
 Crockern Tor, 204, 213. 
 
 Well, 74. 
 
 Cromlechs, xix, 74, 107, 
 
 157, 220, 226, 337, 346, 446, 
 447, 449, 45o. 
 
 Crosses, xxx, 41, 151, 175, 206, 
 212, 224, 308,315,335, 34L 
 3 70, 373, 383, 4°4» 4 T 2, 415, 
 418, 425, 430, 440,445, 452, 
 458, 463, 465, 4 6 7> 468, 474- 
 
 Cross House, 260. 
 
 Cross, John, artist, birthplace, 
 37- 
 
 Crousa Down, 431. 
 
 Crow Rock, 474. 
 
 Crowan, 409. Beacon, 409. 
 
 Crowndale, 233. 
 
 Crown Rocks, 455. 
 
 Crows an ura, 458. 
 
 Cruther’s Bay, 478. Hill, 478. 
 
 Cuby, 366. Well, 346. 
 
 Cuddan Point, 436. 
 
 Cuddenbeak, 343. 
 
 Cudlipp-town, 236. 
 
 Culbone, 276, 298. 
 
 Cullompton, 5. 
 
 Culme river, 4, 5. Valley, 4. 
 
 Culmstock, 5. 
 
 Cumston Tor, 198. 
 
 Cury, St., 425. 
 
 Cut Hill, 162, 204. 
 
 Cutcombe, 301. 
 
 D. 
 
 Daddy’s Hole, 169. 
 
 Daignton Tunnel, 97. 
 Damnonia, ix. 
 
 Danes, 273. 
 
 Danescombe, 135, 389. 
 Dartington House, 102. 
 Dart-meet, 199. 
 
 Dartmoor, 206. Birds, 21 1. 
 Bogs, 210. Climate, 210. 
 Prison, 216. Soil, 2 it. Sta- 
 bles, 210. Tors, 208. Wild 
 animals, 211. 
 
 Dartmoor, walk across, 221. 
 Dartmouth, 178. Antiquity, 
 celebrities, 179. Historic 
 
 DOLCOATH. 
 
 associations, 180. Old 
 houses, 180. Church, 181. 
 Castle, 181. Excursions, 
 
 183. 
 
 Dart river, 97, 104, 175, 178, 
 195, 198, 215. Source, 80, 
 206, 208. Valley, 103. 
 
 rivulet, 39. 
 
 Davey’s Engine, lii. 
 Davidstow, 317. 
 
 Davis, navigator, birthplace, 
 
 179. 
 
 Davy, Sir Humphry, birth- 
 place, 414. Portrait, 402 . 
 Dawlish, 91. Stat. 91. 
 
 Dawns Men, 468. 
 
 Daw’s Hugo, 429. 
 
 Day, St., 407. 
 
 Dazard Head, 396. 
 
 Dean Burn, Vale of, 103, 200. 
 Dean Court, 201. Prior, 103, 
 200. 
 
 Deep Point, 474. 
 
 Deer Park, 49. 
 
 Delabole Quarries, 327. 
 Delamore, 109. 
 
 Denbury Down, 97. 
 Dennabridge Pound, 215. 
 Dennis Creek, 432. 
 
 Denridge, 255. 
 
 Devil’s Bellows, 427. Cheese- 
 wring, 273, 347 - Frying- 
 pan, 430. Jump, 312. Lime- 
 kiln, 292. Post-office, 427. 
 Throat, 427. 
 
 Devil Tor, 215. 
 
 Devon Great Consols, xlix, 
 
 237, 238. 
 
 Devonian system, xxxiv. 
 Devonport, 112, 123. Dock- 
 yard, 124. Excursions, 129. 
 Gun Wharf, 126. Mount 
 Wise, 127. Public build- 
 ings, 128. Steam-yard, 
 126. 
 
 Devonshire cream, lxiv. Pro- 
 verbs, 37, 253. 
 
 Devoran, 404. 
 
 Dewerstone, 225. 
 
 D’Ewes, Sir Symonds, birth- 
 place, 44. 
 
 Diallage-rock, xxxv. 
 
 Dick’s Carn, 474. 
 
 Dinas Cove, 333. Great and 
 Little, 432. 
 
 Ding Dong Mine, 451. 
 Dingerein, 386. 
 
 Ditchen Hills, 293. 
 
 Dittisham, 104. 
 
 Divining-rod, lvii. 
 
 Dodbrooke, 242. 
 Doddiscombleigh, 195. 
 
 Dodman, 386. 
 
 Doe Tor, 84. 
 
 Dolbury, 40. 
 
 Dolcoath Mine, 406. 
 
 Y 2 
 
484 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 DOLLAR. 
 
 Dollar Rock, 461. 
 
 Dolor Hugo, 430. 
 
 Dolphin, 4*38. 
 
 Domestic architecture, xxi. 
 Doones of Badge worthy. 277. 
 Double Water, 236. 
 Doublebois, 351. 
 
 Downes, 250. 
 
 Down Head, 252. 
 
 Down, St. Mary, 255. 
 Dowrish House, 254. 
 Dozmare Pool, 312. 
 
 Drake, Sir Francis, birth- 
 
 E lace, 232. Portrait, 70. 
 legend of, 121. 
 
 Drake’s Island, 129, 134. 
 Drakeswall Mine, 391. 
 Dranna Point, 431. 
 Drewsteignton, 1 56. Logan- 
 stone, 155. 
 
 Dreynes, river, 349, 35 l 
 D rift, 457. 
 
 Drift>net fishing, lx. 
 
 Druid, 203. 
 
 Druid’s Altar, 333. 
 
 Drum Rock, 474. 
 
 Dryden’s Walk, 193. 
 
 Duchy of Cornwall, lxxiii. 
 Duloe, 345, 378. 
 
 Dulverton, 299, 300. 
 Dumpdon Hill, 48. 
 Dunchideock, 19 1. 
 
 Dunkery Beacon, 275, 276. 
 Dunkeswell Abbey, 4, 48. 
 Dunmeer Bridge, 356. Castle, 
 356. Wood, 356. 
 
 Dunning, John, birthplace, 
 202. 
 
 Dunscombe, 250. Cliff, 59. 
 Dunsford, 73, 195. Bridge, 
 140. 
 
 Dunsland, 302. 
 
 Dunster, 297. 
 
 Dupath Well, 389. 
 
 Duporth, 363. 
 
 Durpley Castle, 302. 
 Dutchman’s Carn, 473. 
 
 Duty Point, 273. 
 
 E. 
 
 East Avington, 243. 
 
 East Huel Rose, 36 8. 
 
 Eastern Islands, 478. 
 Eastlake, Sir C. L., the artist, 
 birthplace, 116. 
 
 East Ottery Hill, 64. 
 Eddystone lighthouse, 139. 
 Edge, 59. 
 
 Edgcumbe, 235* 
 
 Egg Buckland, 138. 
 Eggesford, 255. Stat., 255. 
 Egloshayle, 330. 
 
 Elfordleigh, 112. 
 
 FILOREY. 
 
 Elvans, xli, lvii. 
 
 Endellion, St., 329, 330. 
 Endsleigh, 2 35. I07, 392. 
 Enoder, St., 317. 
 
 Enodoc, St., 332. 
 
 Enys, 401, 403. Dodnan,46i. 
 Porth, 469. 
 
 Erica ciliaris, 400. Vagans, 
 4M» 425. 
 
 Erisey House, 430. 
 
 Erme Estuary, 108. Head, 
 107. Pound, 107. River, 
 106, 208. 
 
 Ermington, 108, 244, 247. 
 Erth, 343. St., 413. 
 
 Escot House, 52. 
 
 Ewe, St. 366. 
 
 Exbridge, 300. 
 
 Exe, river, 6, 35, 40, 69, 71, 
 90, 299. Source, 278. 
 Exeter, 6. Origin, situation, 
 history, 9. Former and 
 present modes of reaching, 
 12. Eminent natives, 12. 
 Streets, 12. Cathedral, 13. 
 Episcopal palace, Deanery, 
 churches, 25. Castle, 25. 
 Public buildings, 27-35. 
 Nursery-grounds, 35. Ex- 
 cursions, 35. Ship canal, 
 35. Stats., 6, 53. 
 
 Exeter to Bideford, 249. 
 
 to Exmouth, 69. 
 
 to Launceston, 71. 
 
 to Newton Abbot, 190. 
 
 to Plymouth, 88. 
 
 to Torquay, 163. 
 
 to Okehampton, 71. 
 
 to Moreton Hampstead, 
 
 by road and rail, 140. 
 Exford, 279. 
 
 Exminster, 88. 
 
 Exmoor, 276. Farms, 277. 
 Exmouth, Lord, birthplace, 
 414- 
 
 Exmouth, 67. Excursions, 68. 
 Exton Church, 301 
 Exwick Hill, 36. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fairmile Hill, 65 
 Fal river, 368, 404. 
 
 Fallapit House, 188, 243. 
 Falmouth, 401. Harbour, 403. 
 Fardell, 108. 
 
 Farway Castle, 48. 
 Featherbeck Lane, 161. 
 Feldspathic Traps, xlii. 
 Feniton, 53. 
 
 Fentonwoon, 318. 
 
 Feock, St., 404. 
 
 Fernworthy Circle, 161. 
 Filleigh, 257. 
 
 Filorey, 336. 
 
 GEOLOGICAL. 
 
 Fingle Bridge, 1 55* 
 
 Fisheries, lviii. 
 
 Fistral Bay, 336. 
 
 Fitzford, 231. 
 
 Fitz’s Well, 78, 218. 
 
 Five Barrow Down, 356. 
 Fivelanes, 308. 
 
 Flavel, John, 184. 
 
 Fleet House, 108, 245. 
 Flitton oak, 258. 
 
 Flukan, lvii. 
 
 Flushing, 403. 
 
 Fly-fishing, lxii. 
 
 Fogou, 467. 
 
 Foote the comedian, birth- 
 place, 369. 
 
 Ford the dramatist, birth- 
 place, 146. 
 
 Ford Abbey, 43. 
 
 House, 96. 
 
 Fordlands, 36, 140. 
 Forrabury, 320. 
 
 Fortescue, Chancellor, birth- 
 place, 263. 
 
 Fountain Violet, 183. 
 Four-hole Cross, 314. 
 Foweliscombe, 241. 
 
 Fowey, 381. Consols, 361. 
 Haven, 381. River, 309, 
 549. 55 5- Well, 310. Val- 
 ley. J 59- 
 Fox Tor, 218. 
 
 Fraddon, 317. 
 
 Fremington House, 264. 
 
 Stat., 264. 
 
 Frithelstock, 260. 
 
 Frogmore, 242. 
 
 Fulford House, 73, 253. 
 Funnel Rock, 462. 
 Furry-day, 422. 
 
 Fursbrook House, 43. 
 Fursdon House, 40. 
 
 Fur Tor, 80, 217, 236. 
 
 G. 
 
 Gale, Theophilus, birthplace, 
 94- 
 
 Gallantry Bower, 198, 289. 
 
 Gampen seez, 464. 
 
 Gandy, Wm., birthplace, 12. 
 
 Gannel estuary, 336. 
 
 Gannett Rock, the, 291. 
 
 Ganniley, Great and Little, 
 479- 
 
 Ganniornic, Great and Little, 
 478. 
 
 Garrah, 310. 
 
 Gates, Sir Thos., birthplace, 
 56. 
 
 Gear, 37L 4 «• 
 
 Genneys, St., 396. 
 
 Geological notice, xxxil. 
 
 Geological Society of Corn- 
 wall, 416. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 485 
 
 GERMANS. 
 
 Germans, St., 342. River, 342. 
 Germoe, 4? 4. 
 
 Gerrans, 386. Bay, 386. 
 Gerston, 242 
 
 Giant Tregeagle, 313, 316, 
 358, 386. 
 
 Giant’s Castle, 473. Chair, 
 474. Grave, 468. Graves, 
 457. Hedge, 378. Quoit, 
 450. Rock, 446. Staff, 365. 
 Well, 439. 
 
 Gibben, 459. 
 
 Gibbs, Sir Vicary, birthplace, 
 12. 
 
 Gidleigh, 158. Park, 158. 
 Gifford, Lord, birthplace, 12. 
 
 , William, birthplace, 
 
 202. 
 
 Gilbert, Davies, birthplace, 
 414- 
 
 Gilbert, Sir Humphrey, birth- 
 place, 179. His castle, 168. 
 Gilstone Rock, 473, 476. 
 Gittesham, 50. 
 
 Glanville, Sir John, birth- 
 place, 232. 
 
 Glen Lyn, 271 
 Glenthome, 274. 
 
 Gluvias, St., 400. 
 
 Glynn, 355- Bridge, 355- 
 Yalley, 355- 
 Gneiss, xxxiii. 
 
 Goat, Little and Great, 188. 
 Godolphin, 4*4. Hill, 434. 
 Godolphin, Mrs., grave, 434. 
 Godrevy, 41 1. 
 
 Gold found in Cornwall, 
 xlviii, 366. In Devon, 
 258. 
 
 Goldsithney, 437. 
 
 Golytha rock, 349. 
 
 Goodamoor, 109. 
 
 Goonhilly Down, 425. 
 
 Goose rock, 336. 
 
 Gorran, 385. Haven, 385. 
 Gorregan, 476. 
 
 Gosford House 53, 
 
 Gossan, lvii. 
 
 Grade, 430. 
 
 Grampound, 366. Road stat., 
 366. 
 
 Granate Tor, 82. 
 
 Grand Western Canal, 37. 
 Grange, the, 5. 
 
 Granite, xxxix. Veins, xl. 
 
 Works and quarries, 216. 
 Grauwacke, xxxiii. 
 
 Gravels, xliii. 
 
 Gravesend, 134. 
 
 Great House, 61. 
 
 Great Stone, 333. 
 
 Greber Head, 383. 
 
 Greenaway’s Foot, 285. 
 Greensand, xliii. 
 
 Greenstone, xxxv. 
 
 Greenway, 104, 178 
 
 HANKFORD. 
 
 Grenofen, 224, 236. House, 
 228. 
 
 Grenville, Sir Beville, birth- 
 place, 356. 
 
 Greystone Bridge, 392. 
 
 Grey Tor, 145. 
 
 — — Wethers, the, 161. 
 Grimspound, 151, 152, 205. 
 Grimstone, 228. 
 
 Grove Hill, 402. 
 
 Growan, lvii, 211. 
 
 Grower Quarry, 321. 
 Gubbins’ Land, 84. 
 
 Gue Graze, 426. 
 
 Gugh, 475. 
 
 Guile Bridge, 219. 
 
 Guinear road stat., 405. 
 Gulval, 419, 443. Cam, 419. 
 Gumb, Daniel, birthplace 
 and retreat, 347. 
 
 Gumb’s Rocks, 348. 
 
 Gump, 456. 
 
 Gun, the, 478. 
 
 Gunner Rock, 476. 
 Gunnislake, 233, 237, 391 
 Gunwalloe, 425. 
 
 Gurnard’s Head, 448 
 Gwavas Lake, 466. 
 
 Gweal, 476, 477. 
 
 Gwennap, 407. Pit, 407. 
 Gwinear, 412. 
 
 Gwithian, 409. 
 
 Gwn men Screpha, 450. 
 Gyllanvaes, 403. 
 Gyllyngdune, 402. 
 
 H. 
 
 Haccombe Church, 164. 
 
 House, 164. 
 
 Haddon Down, 298. 
 
 Haine Castle, 87. 
 
 Halberton, 37. 
 
 Haldon Hills, 36, 68, 90, 91, 
 190. House, 190. 
 
 Half Stone, 348. 
 
 Halgaver, 355- 
 Halligey, 433 
 
 Hall House, 109, 383. Walk, 
 38?. 
 
 Hall’s Hole, 134. 
 
 Hallsands, 184. 
 
 Hals, his residence, 368. 
 Halsetown, 444. 
 
 Halwyn, 331. 
 
 Halzaphron Cliffs, 425. 
 Hameldown, 205. 
 
 Hamoaze, 134, 339. 
 
 Ham Stone, 189. 
 
 Hanging Stone, 280. 
 
 Hangman Hills, 280. Isle, 
 477- 
 
 Hanjague Rock, 478. 
 Hankford, Sir Wm., birth- 
 place, 260. I 
 
 HESSENFORD. 
 
 Hanna Ditches, 56. 
 
 Hannon Y alley, 312. 
 
 Hans Barton, 194 
 Hanter Gantick, 311. 
 Harberton, 103. 
 Harbertonford, 103. 
 
 Hare Tor, 86, 221, 236. 
 
 Hare wood House, 135, 233. 
 Harford, 106. 
 
 Harlyn, 331. 
 
 Harpford Wood, 63. 
 
 Harreis, Thomas, birthplace, 
 370. 
 
 Harry’s Walls, 475. 
 Hartland, 294. Abbey, 295, 
 Point, 294. Quay, 295. Tor, 
 213. 
 
 Hatherleigh, 301. 
 
 Haven Cliff, 56. 
 
 Hawksdown Hill, 44, 55, 57. 
 Hawk’s Tor, 314, 348. 
 Hayd'on the artist, birth- 
 place, 1 1 6. 
 
 Hayes Barton, 66. Wood, 67. 
 Hay le, 410. River, 41 1. 
 Hazel Tor, 203. 
 
 Hea, 419. 
 
 Headlands, lxv. 
 
 Heanton Court, 287. 
 
 Satcheville, 260. 
 
 Heath’s Court, 53. 
 
 Hea vi tree, 36. 
 
 Heddon china-clay works, 
 109. 
 
 Heddon’ s Mouth, 279. 
 
 Hele Stat., 6. Village, 285. 
 Helen’s, St., 478. 
 Helesborough, 284, 285. 
 Helford river, 432. 
 
 Heligan, 363. 
 
 Helland, 355 
 Hell’s Mouth, 410. 
 Hellwethers, 473, 475. 
 Helmen, 361. 
 
 Helston, 422. 
 
 Heitor, 140. 
 
 Hembury Fort, 91, 197. 
 Hemerdon Ball, 109. House, 
 112. 
 
 Hempstone Arundel, 103. 
 Hemyock Castle, 4. 
 
 Henbury Fort, 302. 
 
 Hengar House, 329. 
 Hennacliff, 396. 
 
 Hennock, 148. 
 
 Hennons, the, 94. 
 
 Henny Castle, 269. 
 Hensbarrow, 316, 365. 
 Heronry at Sharpbam, 104. 
 
 At Pixton Park, 300. 
 Herrick the poet, his vicar- 
 age, 200. Grave, 201. 
 Hertford Bridge, 236. 
 
 Hervey, his curacy, 265. 
 Hessary Tor, 204, 215. 
 Hessenford, 375. 
 
486 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 HEWAS. 
 
 He was Mine, 366. Water, 
 366. 
 
 Hexworthy House, 392. 
 Heytor Rocks, 144. Quarry, 
 145. Town, 145. 
 
 High Cliff, 322. Peak, 62, 64. 
 Higher Combe, 300. 
 
 Highland House, 108. 
 
 Hilary, St., 438. 
 
 Hill Bridge, 236. 
 
 Hill-Castles, xxv. 
 
 Hillersdon House, 5. 
 
 Hingston Down, 390. 
 Historical Notice, ix. 
 
 Hobby, the, 287. 
 
 Hockworthy Court, 299. 
 Holbeton, 245. 
 
 Holcombe Rogus, 3. 
 
 Holed Stones, xxiii, 159, 421, 
 450, 468, 47 3. 
 
 Holestrow, 428. 
 
 Hollam House, 301. 
 
 Holloway Cross, 508. 
 Holmbush Mines, 392. 
 
 Holne, 198. Bridge, 204. 
 
 Moor, 204. Park, 204. 
 Holne Chace, 204. 
 
 Holnicote, 276, 297. 
 
 Holstone Barrow, 280. 
 Holsworthy, 302. 
 
 Holy -street, 158. 
 
 Holy Vale, 473. 
 
 Holywell Bay, 336. 
 
 Honey Ditches, 56. 
 
 Honiton, 45. Lace, 45. Yale 
 of, 45. Stat., 45. 
 
 Hood, Admiral, birthplace, 
 43 - 
 
 Hooker, Rich., birthplace, 12. 
 Hooknor Tor, 152. 
 
 Hope, 189. 
 
 Hope’s Nose, 167. 
 Hornblende-slate, xxxy. 
 Horner, stream, 297. 
 Horrabridge, 226. 
 
 Horse, the, 370 
 Horse Bridge, 392. 1 
 
 Horseman’s Bay, 149. Steps, 
 H 9 - 
 
 Horticultural Soc. of Corn- 
 wall, 369. 
 
 Horwood, 266. 
 
 Hot Point, 430. 
 
 Hound’s Pool, 200. 
 
 Houndtor, 145. Coomb, 145. 
 Househole, Cove and Bay, 
 429. 
 
 Howe, John, his residence, 
 260. 
 
 Hubba, his supposed grave, 
 270. 
 
 Hubblestone, 270. 
 Huckworthy Bridge, 220. 
 Hudscott, 184. 
 
 Huel Alfred, 41 1. Friend- 
 ship, 86, 236, 237. Garras, 
 
 JUNKET. 
 
 368. Halamanning, 437. 
 Herland, 411. Sophia, 391. 
 Vor, 434. 
 
 Hugh Town, 472. 
 Huntingdon, 201. 
 
 Huns tor, 155. 
 
 Hunter’s Lodge, 47. 
 
 Hurlers, the, 348. 
 
 Hurling, game of, lxix. 
 Hut-circles, xxiv, 75, 109, 
 145 , 152, 159, 161, T99, 212, 
 217, 218, 220, 226, 310, 348. 
 
 I. 
 
 Ide, vale of, 73. 
 
 Iktis, ancient, xlv, 117, 442. 
 Ilford Bridges, 272. 
 Ilfracombe, 283. Harbour, 
 lighthouse, 284. Church, 
 
 284. Baths, 285. Environs, 
 
 285. 
 
 Illogan, 408. 
 
 Ilsington, 146. Manor-house, 
 146. 
 
 Ince Castle, 341. 
 
 Inciedon the singer, birth- 
 place, 431. 
 
 Indian Queens, 317- 
 Ingsdon, 205. 
 
 Inisidgen Point, 474. 
 Inisvouls, Great and Little, 
 479- 
 
 Innis Head, 431. Vean, 428. 
 Inny river, 308, 392. 
 Inscribed Stones, xxvi, 108, 
 M9» 4ii* 4 T 2. 4*9. 45?. 
 Institution of Cornwall, 369. 
 Ins tow Quay, 264. 
 
 Ipplepen, 96. 
 
 Irish Lady, 460. 
 
 Islands of Stilly, 470. 
 
 Isnioc Cross, 370. 
 
 Issey, St., 331. Beacon, 333. 
 Ive, St., 391. 
 
 Ives, St., 444. Consols, 445. 
 
 Road stat., 413. 
 
 Ivy Bridge, 106. ' Q tat. ic6. 
 
 J. 
 
 Jackson, V/m., birthplace, 12. 
 Jacky’s Rock, 476. 
 Jacobstow, 395. 
 
 Jamaica Inn, 309. 
 
 Jeffries, Anne, 329. 
 
 Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury, 
 birthplace, 282. 
 
 Jews’ Houses, xlvi. 
 
 John Cann’s Bocks, 148. 
 Johnson’s Head, Dr., 459. 
 John’s, St., 344, 424. Cottage, 
 68. Eve, 416. Hill, 233. 
 Lake, 134. 
 
 Jump, 239. 
 
 Junket, lxiv. 
 
 KING. 
 
 Just in Penwith, St., 453. 
 In Roseland, St., 404. 
 Creek, 404. Pool, 404. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kalynack, Mary, 415. 
 Karsdon quarry, 299. 
 
 Kea, 3 99 - 
 Kelland, 255. 
 
 Kellan Head, 332. 
 
 Kelly, 236. College, 232. 
 
 House, 87. Rounds, 329. 
 Kenegie, 418, 443. 
 
 Kenidjack Castle, 4 55. 
 
 Kenn, 88. 
 
 Kennack Cove, 431. 
 
 Kennal, stream, 399. 
 Kennicott, Benj., birthplace, 
 98. 
 
 Kensey river, 304. 
 
 Kenton, 90. . 
 
 Kent’s Hole, 169. 
 Kentisbeare, t>. 
 
 Kentisbury, 283. 
 
 Kenwith Lodge, 269. 
 Kenwyn, 370. 
 
 Kerowe Down, 315. 
 
 Kerswell Rocks, 194. 
 
 Kestor Rock, 160. 
 
 Kettle and Pans, 473. 
 Kettle’s Bottom, 459. 
 
 Ke verne, St., 431. 
 
 Kew, St., 329. 
 
 Keyne’s Well, St., 345, 378. 
 Kiby’s Well, St., 346. 
 Kilkhampton, 302, 396. 
 Kilkobben Cove, 430. 
 
 Killas, xxxvi, Ivii. 
 
 Killbury, 329. 
 
 Ivillerton Park, 6. 
 KiUiganoon, 370, 399. 
 Killigarth, 37c 
 Killiow, 370, 3yy. 
 
 Kilmarth Tor, 348. 
 Kilmington, 45. 
 
 Kilworthy, 233. 
 
 Finance Cove, 427. 
 
 King Arthur, 323, 326, 317- 
 Tomb, 319. 
 
 King, Lord Chancellor, birth- 
 place, 12. 
 
 King’s and Queen’s Houses, 
 3 11. 
 
 King’s Nympton Park, 250. 
 Kingsand, 376. 
 
 Kingsbridge, 241. Road Stat., 
 106, 240. 
 
 to Plymouth, 240. 
 
 King’s Kerswell, 164. Nymp- 
 ton, 256. Oven, 212. Teign- 
 ton, 94, 195. 
 
 Kingstone, 245. 
 
 Kingswear, 182. Castle, 183. 
 King Tor, 217. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 487 
 
 KIRKHAM. 
 
 Kirkham’s Hill, 175. 
 Kistvaens, xxiii, 75, 107, 199, 
 14?, 212, 21 3, 228, 290, 346, 
 446, 476. 
 
 Kit Hill, 390. 
 
 Kitley, 248. Cavern, 248. 
 Kitt’s Fall, 84. 
 
 Kittern, 475. 
 
 Kneeset Tor, Great, 221. 
 Knight’s Hayes, 39. 
 
 Knill, John, his monument, 
 445- 
 
 Ivnolle, farmhouse, 227. 
 Knowle House, 241. 
 
 L. 
 
 Ladock, 317. 
 
 Ladram Bay, 64. 
 
 Laira Bridge, 112, 137. Es- 
 tuary, 112, 137* River, 
 222. 
 
 Lake, 82. 
 
 Lakehead Circle, 212. 
 Lambert, his prison, 129. 
 Lamerton, 237. 
 
 Lametry, 292. 
 
 Lamorna Cove, 468. Valley, 
 467. 
 
 Lamorran, 366. Creek, 307- 
 Lander, Richard and John, 
 the travellers, birthplace, 
 369. 
 
 Landewednack, 430. 
 
 Land’s End, 458. District, 
 410. 
 
 Landue Mill, 392. 
 
 Landulph, 387. 
 
 Laneast, 308. Down, 317. 
 Langdon Hall, 247. 
 Langstone, 91, 92. 
 
 Language, old Cornish, Ixxi. 
 Langwell, 242. 
 
 Lanherne Convent, 334. 
 Lanhydrock House, 358. 
 Lanivet, 316. 
 
 Lank, 31 1. River, 3 it. Down, 
 3 1 1. Rocks, 31 1. 
 Lanlivery, 356. 
 
 Lannacomb Mill, 186. 
 Lansallos, 380. 
 
 Lanteglos, 318, 380. 
 
 •Lantern Hill, 284, 285. 
 Lanyon, 412. Cromlech, 450. 
 Lapford Stat., 255. 
 
 Lariggan, 419. 
 
 Launcells, 302, 394- House, 
 394- 
 
 Launceston, 303. Castle, 304. 
 Churches, 306. Environs, 
 307. Historical notice, 306. 
 
 to Truro, 303, 317. 
 
 Laver, 282. 
 
 Lawhitton, 392. 
 
 LUDGVAN. 
 
 Lawrence, St., 355- 
 Laywell Spring, 176. 
 
 Leawood House, 87. 
 
 Lee Abbey, 274. Bay, 273. 
 
 Valley, 285. 
 
 Leigh, 244. 
 
 Leign Tor, 145. 
 
 Lelant, 412. 
 
 Lemain, 377. 
 
 Lemon rivulet, 95, 
 
 Lerrin river, 359. 
 
 Lescaddock Castle, 419. 
 Lesingey Round, 457. 
 Lesnewth, 322. 
 
 Lethertor, 228. 
 
 Lethowsow, 459. 
 
 Levan, St., 463. 
 
 Levant Mine, 456. 
 
 Lew, North, 302. 
 
 Lewesdon, 199. 
 
 Lezant, 392. 
 
 Lich-stones, 341, 462. 
 
 Lidford, 82. Castle, 82. Bridge, 
 83. Cascade, 84. Law, 83. 
 Tor, 215. Station, 240. 
 Lifton, 87. Park, 87, 240. 
 Limestones, xxxvi. 
 Linkenhorne, 392. 
 
 Links Tor, Great, 79. 
 
 Lint’s Tor, 236. 
 
 Lion Rock, 478. 
 
 Lion’s Den, 429. 
 
 Liskeard, 344. Excursions, 
 J44G5I- 
 
 Lithwell Chapel, 92, 94. 
 Little Bounds Mine, 454. 
 Littleham, 67. 
 
 Livermead, 174. 
 
 Livery Dole, 36. 
 
 Lizard Cove, 430. District, 
 424. Point, 425, 428. 
 
 Town, 424, 429. 
 
 Lock, Matthew, birthplace, 
 12. 
 
 Loddiswell, 241, 243. 
 
 Loe Pool, 423. 
 
 Logan Rock, 463. 
 
 Logan Stones, xxiii, 146, 150, 
 i55, 205, 3 11, 4°9, 445, 
 463, 475* 
 
 1 London to Exeter, 2, 41. 
 
 | to Tiverton and Cre- 
 
 ! diton, 37. 
 
 Longaford Tor, 213. 
 Longator, 198. 
 
 Longbridge, 222, 322. 
 Longships lighthouse, 459. 
 Longstone, 228. The, 159, 
 365, 383, 475- 
 
 Looe, 344, 376. Valley, 35 i- 
 Lostwithiel, 356. 
 
 Love Lane, 419. 
 
 Lover’s Leap, 203, 285. 
 Loyes, St., 37. 
 
 Lucombe oak, 400. 
 
 Ludgvan, 413. 
 
 MARWOOD. 
 
 Lugger’s Cave, 375. 
 
 Lundy Island, 289. 
 
 Lupton House, 175. 
 Luscombe, 91. 
 
 Lustleigh Cleave, 149. Va'ley, 
 149. 
 
 Luton Chapel, 194. 
 
 Luxulian, 360. Quanies, 36c. 
 Lyd, river, 84, 234. 
 
 Lyme Regis, 54. 
 
 — - — to Exeter, 54. 
 Lympstone, 71. 
 
 Lyn torrents, 2 70. Cliff, 271, 
 272. River, 271, 279. 
 Lynbridge, 272. 
 
 Lyndale, 271. 
 
 Lyndridge, 93. 
 
 Lynher Creek, 340, 341, 344. 
 Estuary, 375. 
 
 Lynmouth, 270. Foreland, 
 272. 
 
 to Hartland, 270. 
 
 Lynton, 270. Cottage, 271. 
 Lyonesse, 459, 471. 
 
 M. 
 
 Mabe quarries, 400, 405, 421. 
 Mabyn, St., 329. 
 
 Madron, 419,450. Well, 420, 
 450. 
 
 Maen Castle, 460. 
 
 Maentol, 421. 
 
 Maiden Bower, 476. 
 Maidencombe, 94, 173- , 
 Maisonette, 104. 
 
 Maker, 376. Heights .376. 
 Malpas, 370. 
 
 Mamhead, 90. 
 
 Manaccan, 432. 
 
 Manach Point, 463. 
 
 Manacles, 402, 431. 
 
 Man and his man, 374. 
 Manaton, 146. 
 
 Manor House, 49- 
 Mans tone, 63. 
 
 Marazion, 438. Road stat., 
 415- 
 
 Mare Rock, 478. 
 Marhamchurch, 394. 
 
 Marisco’s Castle, 292. 
 Maristowe, 235. 239. 
 
 Market- Jew, 438. 
 Marlborough, 242. Duke ( f, 
 where born, 43. 
 
 Marldon, 173. 
 
 Marley, 68. 
 
 Marsh, the, 438. 
 
 Marsh Mills, 222. 
 
 Marsland, 296. 
 
 Martin’s, St., 478. Flats, 478. 
 
 Bay, 478. Head, 478. 
 Martyn the missionary, 
 birthplace, 370. 
 
 Mar wood, 264. Family of, 46. 
 
488 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 MARY. 
 
 Mary Church, St., 171. 
 
 Mary’s, St., Stilly, 472. 
 
 Mary Tavy, 236. Rock, 236. 
 
 Mawes, St., 404. Castle, 404. 
 
 MaAvgan, St., 33 4. In Mene- 
 age, 432. Porth, 335, 336. 
 Yale, 335. 
 
 Maypole Hill, 473. 
 
 Meachard, 321. 
 
 Meadfoot Cove, 169. 
 
 Meavy, 227. Vale, 227. Oak, 
 227. 
 
 Mediaeval remains, xxvi. 
 
 Medrose, 327. 
 
 Meldon Quarry, 79. 
 
 Meledgan, 476. 
 
 Mellion, St., 388. 
 
 Membury, 44. 
 
 Menabilly, 38 3. 
 
 Menacuddle Well, 363. 
 
 Menavawr, 478. 
 
 Men Amber, 409. An-tol, 
 450. Scryffen, 450. 
 
 Menewethan, 479. 
 
 Menheniot, 344. 
 
 Mermaid’s Hole, 386. 
 
 Merrifield, 341. 
 
 Merrivale Bridge, 219. 
 
 Merry Maidens, 454, 468. 
 
 Merryn, St., 331. 
 
 Merther, 368. 
 
 Merton, 259. 
 
 Mevagissey, 384. 
 
 Mew, river, 224. 
 
 Mewstone, 129, 188. 
 
 Mica-slate, xxxiii. 
 
 Michael Carhayes, St., 385. 
 Of Halstock, St., 81. Pen- 
 kivel, St., 370. 
 
 Michael’s Mount, St., 413, 
 439. Chair, 345, 440. 
 
 Michaelstow, 329. Beacon, 
 3 29. 
 
 Milber Down, 163. 
 
 Milford valley, 296. 
 
 Millaton, 87. 
 
 Mill Bay, 122, 188,462. 
 
 Millbrook, 134. 
 
 Millendreath, 379. 
 
 Mill-hill quarries, 238. 
 
 Mill Mouth, 289. 
 
 Milton Abbot, 235. 
 
 Minalto, Great and Little, 
 476. 
 
 Mincarlo, 476. 
 
 Minehead, 297. 
 
 Mines, xliv. Articles con- 
 sumed in, lvii. Bounding, 
 xlvii. Descent of, liii. 
 Dressing the ore, liv. His- 
 tory, xliv. How managed, 
 lv. How worked, 1 . Levels, 
 1 . Lodes, xlix. Miners, 
 liv, lvi. Sale of the ore, 
 lvi. , Shaft, 1 . Shoding, 
 xlix. [Smelting the ore, lvi. 
 
 NANKISSAL. 
 
 Steam engines, li. Stan- 
 nary laws, xlviii. Stream- 
 works, liii. Submarine 
 mines, liii. Temperature, 
 
 11. 
 
 Minster, 322. 
 
 Minver, St., 332. 
 
 Miracle plays, 374, 453. 
 
 Mis Tor, Great, 86, 217, 236. 
 
 Little, 217. Pan, 217. 
 Mitchell, 317. 
 
 Mithian, 374. 
 
 Modbury, 190, 244. 
 Moditonham, 134, 387. 
 
 Mole river, source, 257. 
 Mole’s Chamber, 277. 
 Molland, 301. 
 
 Mol ton, North, 257. South, 
 256. Ridge, 280. 
 
 Monk, Duke of Albemarle, 
 birthplace, 259. 
 
 Monkleigh, 260. 
 
 Monk’s Cowl, 473. 
 Moorswater, 344, 351. 
 Morchard Bishops, 255. Road 
 Stat., 255. 
 
 Moreton Hampstead, 150. 
 
 to Tavistock, road, 206. 
 
 Morice, Sir Wm., birthplace, 
 
 12. 
 
 Moridunum of Antoninus, 47, 
 
 56, 65. 
 
 Morley china-clay works, 109. 
 Morte Stone, 286. 
 
 Morthoe, 285. 
 
 Morton, 394. House, 266. 
 Morton’s Learn, 35. 
 
 Morvah, 448. 
 
 Morval House, 3 75, 378. 
 Morwellham, 135. 
 
 Morwell House, 23 5. Rocks, 
 1 35 , 23?, 389. 
 
 Morwenstow, 398. 
 Mothecomb, 245. 
 
 Moult, the, 187. 
 
 Mount Batten, 132. Boone, 
 104. Tavy, 234. 
 
 Mount Edgcumbe, 123, 132. 
 Mount’s Bay, 417. Climate, 
 418. Mine, 437. 
 Mousehole, 468. 
 
 Mozrang Pool, 461. 
 
 Mulfra, 446. Quoit, 447. 
 Mullion, 426. Cove, 426. 
 
 Island, 426. 
 
 Mundic, lvii. 
 
 Musbury, 44, 57. 
 
 Mylor,403. Creek, 403. Pool, 
 403. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nag’s Head, 475. 
 Nanceal verne, 418. 
 Nankissal, 462. 
 
 OLDAPORT. 
 
 Nansloe House, 424. 
 Nanswhyden,334. 
 
 Nare Point, 432. 
 
 Neot, St., church, 349. Mi- 
 racles, 3 50. W ell, 350. 
 Netherton Hall, 49. 
 
 New Bridge, 198, 2 33 , 39 r, 
 
 457 . 
 
 Newcomen, birthplace, 179. 
 Newenham Abbey, 43. 
 
 New Grimsby, 477. 
 
 New Ground, 179. 
 Newhouse, 212. 
 
 Newlyn,3i7. Near Penzance, 
 466. 
 
 Newnham Park, 112. 
 Newquay, in Cornwall, 336. 
 In Stilly, 474. 
 
 Newton, 94. Ferrers, 246. 
 House, 250, 388. Popple- 
 ford, 64. Stat., 95. 
 
 Newton St. Cyres Stat., 250. 
 Newtown, 468. 
 
 Newt’s Down, 39. 
 
 Nigh ton’s Keive, St., 322. 
 Nine Maidens, 333, 450, 457, 
 
 458. 
 
 Nine Stones, 81. 
 
 No Man’s Land, 333. 
 Northam, 267. Burrows, 
 267. 
 
 North Bovey, 151. 
 
 North Brentor, 85. 
 
 North Molton, 257. 
 
 Northcote the artist, birth- 
 place, 115. 
 
 North Hall, 204. Lew, 302. 
 Northwithial, 478. 
 
 Nortor, 478. 
 
 Noss, 246 
 
 Nottar Bridge, 343. 
 
 Noy. attorney-general, birth- 
 place, 465. Residence, 334. 
 Nundeeps Rock, 476. 
 
 Nut Rock, 476. 
 
 Nutcrackers Logan - stone, 
 146, 1 50. 
 
 Nutwell Court, 70. 
 
 Nymet Tracey, 71. 
 
 0 . 
 
 Oare Hill, 275. Water, 274. 
 Ockley, Simon, birthplace, 12. 
 Ocrinum (ancient), 428. 
 
 Off Islands, 475. 
 
 Offwell House, 49. 
 
 Ogwell Rocks, 96. 
 Okehampton, 76. Castle, 77. 
 
 Park, 78. 
 
 Okelands, 78. 
 
 Okement, river, 76, 77. Source . 
 of E., 80. Valley of E., 
 81. Source of W., 162, 221. 
 Oldaport, 245. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 489 
 
 PETER. 
 
 Pencalenick, 368, 3 70. 
 Pencarrow, 33 o, 355. Head, 
 xxxvii. 
 
 Pencoose Castle, 366. 
 Pendarves, 409. Quoit, 409. 
 Pendeen, 456. Cove, 456. 
 Vau, 456. 
 
 Pendennis Castle, 401. 
 Pendrathen Quay, 474. 
 Pendre, 44?. 
 
 Pendrea, 419. 
 
 Pengelly, 3 27. 
 
 Pengerrick, 402. 
 
 Pengersick Castle, 435. 
 Pengreep, 407. 
 
 Penhale Point, 336. 
 Penhargate Castle, 356. 
 Peninnis Head, 473. 
 
 Penkinna Head, 322, 396. 
 Pennance, 366, 446. 
 
 Penn slate-quarry, 202. 
 Pennsylvania, 36. 
 Penny-come-quick, 401. 
 Penolver, 429. 
 
 Penpons Bottom, 405. 
 Penquite, 382. 
 
 Penrice, 363. 
 
 Penrose, 424. 
 
 Penryn Stat., 400 
 Pensheil, 109. 
 
 Pentillie Castle, 388. 
 
 Pen tire Point, 333, 336. 
 Pentreath, Dolly, 466. 
 Pentewan stone, xli. 
 Pentowan, 363. 
 
 Penwether Viaduct, 399. 
 Penwood, 205. 
 
 Penzance, 413. History, 414. 
 Notabilities, 414. Princi- 
 pal buildings, &c., 414, 415. 
 Museums, 415, 416. Curious 
 custom, 416. Environs, 
 417-420. Excursions from, 
 417 - 479 - 
 
 Penzance to St. Michael’s 
 Mount, 4J8. 
 
 — - to the Gurnard’s Head, 
 
 447 - 
 
 — - to St. Ives, 44 j. 
 
 to St. Just, &c., 451. 
 
 to Lamorna Cove, 465. 
 
 to the Land's End, 
 
 POLE. 
 
 Peter’s Eve, St., 416. 
 
 Peters, Hugh, birthplace, 383. 
 
 Portrait, 383. 
 
 Petherick, Little, 231. 
 
 Petit Tor, 172. 
 
 Petton, 299. 
 
 Peverell s Cross, 315. 
 
 Pewtor, 237. 
 
 Phillack, 412. 
 
 Pidley, 255. 
 
 Pigeon’s Hugo, 426. 
 
 Pilchard fishery, lviii, 418. 
 
 King, lix. 
 
 Pill Creek, 404. 
 
 Pillars, Stone, xxi, 159, 215, 
 218, 219, 475. 
 
 Pilton, 264. House, 264. 
 
 Pin Beacon, 65. 
 
 Pindar Lodge, 242. 
 
 Pinhoe, 36. 
 
 Pinney landslips, 54. 
 
 Pipers, the, 468. Hole, 471, 
 
 473 , 478 . 
 
 Piran, St., 373. Oratory, 377. 
 
 Well, 399. 
 
 Piskie’s Well, 378. 
 
 Pistol Meadow, 428. 
 
 Pitt’s Parlour, 47?. 
 
 Pixies, 227. House, 227. 
 
 Parlour, 192. 
 
 Pixton Park, 298, 300. 
 
 Place Barton, 194, 331, 382, 
 405. 
 
 Planguary, 407. 
 
 Plans an guare, 407, 453. 
 Pludn, 461. 
 
 Plumb island, 478. 
 
 Plumley, 149. 
 
 Plym Bridge, 222. Head, 107, 
 226, 228. River, 222, 224. 
 Plymouth, 112. Athenaeum, 
 120. Bovisand,2i3. Break- 
 water, 1 29. Churches, 1 1 8. 
 Citadel, 116. Dockyard, 
 124. Excursions, 129. 
 Guildhall, 119. History, 
 
 1 13. Hoe, 117. Leet, 121. 
 Mill Bay, 122. Mount 
 Batten, 132. Public Li- 
 brary, 1 21. Sound, 129. 
 Sutton Pool, 1 21. 
 
 — — to Tavistock and Laun- 
 
 OLDBARROW. 
 
 Oldbarrow Camp, 275, 298. 
 Old Blockhouse, 478. 
 
 Old Bosullow, 449. 
 
 Old Crinnis mine, 362. 
 
 Old Grimsby, 478. 
 
 Olditch Court, 4?. 
 
 Old Lizard Head, 428. 
 
 Old Man cutting Turf, 475. 
 Old Man and his Children, 
 189. 
 
 Old Town, 473. Bay, 473. 
 Oliver Cromwell’s Castle, 478. 
 
 Convention-room, 50. 
 
 Opie, birthplace, 374. 
 
 Orange, prince of, his landing, 
 167 ; scene of his first coun- 
 cil, 176. 
 
 Oratories, xxviii, 332, 3 7®* 
 IV- 
 
 Or comb Point, 68. 
 
 Oreston quarries, 136. 
 Orleigh Court, 266. 
 
 Ocher Half Stone, 348. 
 
 Otter river, 46, 50, 65, 67. 
 Otterton, 65. 
 
 Ottery Park, 237. St. Mary, 
 50. Road stat., 50. 
 Oxenham, 74. 
 
 I Oxton House, 90. 
 
 P. 
 
 Packsaddle Bridge, 198. 
 Padstow, 330. Harbour, 331. 
 Paignton, 174. 
 
 j Par, 362. Consols, 361. 
 Breakwater, 361. Smelt- 
 ing Works, 361. 
 
 ■ Paracombe, 279 
 
 I Pardenick, 461. 
 
 Park Hill, 165. House, 356. 
 
 ; Parkham, 287. 
 
 I Parliament Lane, 175. 
 j Parnvose, 4*0. 
 
 | Parrett, river, 44. 
 
 Parson Rock, 92, 9?. 
 
 . {Paul, 466. Hill, 466. 
 Payhembury, 53. 
 
 Peak House, 65. 
 
 I Peamore House, 88. 
 
 1 Peartree, headland, 186. 
 
 Peat bogs, Ixvi. 
 
 Pebble Ridge, 268. 
 iPedn an Laaz, 458. 
 
 Pedn mean an Mor, 463. 
 
 Pedn men dhu, 460. 
 
 I Pedn Vounder, 463. 
 
 °ele Rock, 458. 
 
 :) ellew’s Redout, 474. 
 
 ’elyn House, 359. 
 
 J elynt, 379. 
 
 ’enair, 368, 370. 
 
 ‘enare Head, xxxvii, 386. 
 
 ’en Beacon, 109. 
 
 ! ’enberth Cove, 464. 
 
 ’enbrose, 478. 
 
 457 - 
 
 Permellin Bay, 475. 
 
 Pernagie Isle, 478. 
 
 Perran Arworthal, 399. 
 Perran Porth, 371. Round, 
 373. Wharf, 404. 
 Perran-uthnoe, 437. 
 Perranwell Stat., 399. 
 Perran-zabuloe, 371. Old 
 church of, 371. 
 
 Perridge Camp, 140. 
 
 Peter Pindar, birthplace, 242. 
 
 School, 345. 
 
 Peter Tavy, 236. 
 
 ceston, 222. 
 
 - — to Modbury and Kings- 
 bridge, 240. 
 
 to Truro, 337. 
 
 to Falmouth, J75. 
 
 to Bude Haven, 387. 
 
 PlymptonEarl,uo. St.Mary, 
 109. Stat., 109. House, 111. 
 Plymstock, 137, 246. 
 Plymtree, 6. 
 
 Point-in- view, 68. 
 
 Polbathick, 3 75. 
 
 Pole, Sir Wm., the antiquary, 
 grave, 60. 
 
490 INDEX. 
 
 POLGOOTIJ. 
 
 Polgooth, 366. 
 
 Poljew, 425. 
 
 Polkerris, 384. 
 
 Pol Ledan, 462. 
 
 Polmear, 363. 
 
 Polostoc, 462. 
 
 Polpeer, 428. 
 
 Polperro, 379. 
 
 Polpry, 460. 
 
 Polruan, 381, 383. 
 
 Polsloe Priory, 36. 
 
 Poltair, 420. House, 419. 
 Poltesco, Valley of, 431. 
 Poltimore House, 6, 36. 
 Polwhele, birthplace, 369. 
 Residence, 432. House, 
 368, 370. 
 
 Polytechnic Society of Corn- 
 wall, 402. 
 
 Ponghill, 396. 
 
 Ponsandane, 44?. 
 
 Ponsondine, 419. 
 
 Pons worthy, 199. 
 
 Poole, 184, 408. 
 
 Pooling granite, lxvi. 
 
 Poor Man’s Endeavour, 312. 
 Population, lxxi. 
 
 Porch House, 63. 
 
 Porcrasa, 473. 
 
 Porlock, 275, 298. 
 
 Por Loe, 462. 
 
 Pornanvon Cove, 454. 
 
 Por Selli, 463. 
 
 Port Eliot, 342. Gavorne,328. 
 Isaac, 332. Issyk, 329. 
 William, 327. 
 
 Porthalla, 431. 
 
 Porthcurnow, 463. 
 
 Porth Enys, 469. 
 Porthgwarra, 462. 
 
 Porth Hellick, 472, 473. 
 
 Porth Hern, 324. 
 
 Porthledan Cove, 454. 
 Porthleven, 434. 
 
 Porthloo Bay, 475. 
 
 Porthmeer Cove, 448. 
 
 Porth Minick, 473. 
 Porthoustock, 431. 
 Porthqueen, 332. 
 
 Portledge, 266. 
 
 Portlemouth, 186. 
 
 Portmellin, 385. 
 
 Portreath, 407. 
 
 Portsmouth Arms Stat., 258. 
 Posbury Hill, 252. 
 
 Post Bridge, 212. 
 
 Potato Market, a British vil- 
 lage so called, 220. 
 Potheridge, 259. 
 
 Pounds, xxiv, 75, 146, 152, 
 161, 212, 213, 215, 218, 
 220. 224, 350. 
 
 Pound Sea wens, 315. 
 Poulston, 87. 
 
 Powderham Castle, 36, 88. 
 Church, 88. 
 
 RAVEN. 
 
 Pradanack Cross, 426. Head, 
 426. 
 
 Prawle Point, 186. 
 Praze-an-Beeble, 409. 
 Prestonbury Castle, 155. 
 Prideaux, 360. John, 247. 
 Warren, 360. Humphrey, 
 birthplace, 331. School, 
 145 - 
 
 Pridham sleigh, 202. 
 
 Priglis Bay, 47?. 
 
 Prince Albert Mine, 258. 
 Prince Arthur Consols Mine, 
 237- 
 
 Prince Hall, 215. 
 
 Prince, John, birthplace, 43. 
 
 His living, 100. 
 
 Prince Regent Mine, 258. 
 Prince’s Town, 204, 215. 
 
 Quarries, 216. 
 
 Probus, 367. 
 
 Prout the artist, birthplace, 
 115- 
 
 Proverbs, of Devon, 253. Of 
 Cornwall, 376, 386. 
 
 Prussia Cove, 436. 
 
 Puckie Stone, 158. 
 
 Pulpit Rock, 473. 
 
 Punchbowl Rock, 475. 
 Puppers, 201. 
 
 Puslinch, 248. 
 
 Pynes House, 6, 249. 
 
 Q. 
 
 Quakers’ Burial-ground, 458. 
 Quethiock, 391. 
 
 E. 
 
 Radford, 132, 137. 
 
 Ragged Island, 479. 
 
 Railway, Great Western, 2, 
 37. S. Western, 41, 69. N. 
 Devon, 71, 249. S. Devon, 
 88, 163. Dartmouth and 
 Torbay, 174. Plymouth 
 and Dartmoor, 217. S. 
 Devon and Tavistock, 222. 
 W. Cornwall, 337, 405. 
 Cornwall, 337. 
 
 Raised beaches, xliii, 167, 
 
 332, 386, 405,434,454* 4 6 °- 
 
 Raleigh House, 264. 
 
 Raleigh, Sir AValter, birth- 
 place, 67. His first cigar, 
 183. Residence, 50. 
 Ralph’s Hole, 189. 
 
 Rame Head, 376. 
 
 Ramillies Cove, 189. 
 
 Rattery, 103. 
 
 Rattle Brook, 221. 
 
 Rattles Bay, 292. 
 
 Raven’s Hugo, 430. 
 
 Raven Rock, 236. 
 
 Red Deer, 301. 
 
 RUNDLESTONE. 
 
 Redford, 221. 
 
 Red Moor, 3 59. 
 
 Redmoor mines, 392. 
 Redruth, 406. 
 
 Red Sandstone, New, xlii. 
 
 Old, xxxiv. 
 
 Resingy Round, 419. 
 Resparvell Down, 321. 
 Restormel Castle, 357. House, 
 358. Mine, 358. 
 Restronguet Creek, 599,404. 
 Resugga Castle, 366. 
 
 Revels toke, 246. 
 
 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, por- 
 trait, 39. Birthplace, no. 
 Rialton, 336. Priory, 336. 
 Ridgeway, 1 1 2. 
 
 Rill, the, 427. 
 
 Ring Castle, 278. 
 
 Ringmore, 245. 
 
 Ringrone, 187. 
 
 Rippon Tor, 146, 204. 
 j Road into Cornwall, ancient, 
 
 I 526. 
 
 Roborough Down, 239. Stone, 
 xli, 135- 
 
 Roche, 316. Rocks, 316, 337- 
 Rock basins, xxiii, 159, 160, 
 217, 310, 473, 474- Idols, 
 421. Pillars, 159, 218, 219, 
 220. 
 
 Rockham, 285. 
 
 Rolls Tor, 217. 
 
 Roman remains, xxvi. 
 Roncumbe Gate, 64. 
 Rood-screen, 5, 18 1, 256. 
 Rose, 371. 
 
 Rosecadgehill, 418. 
 
 Rose Hill, 419. 
 
 Roscarrock House, 33 o. 
 Roseland, 386. 
 
 Rosemorran, 418. 
 Rosemullion Head, 402. 
 Rosevean, 376. 
 
 Rosevear, 376. 
 
 Rose wall, 445. 
 
 Rosewarne, 412. 
 
 Rotten Pits, 189. 
 
 Rougemont Castle, 25. Lodge 
 27 - . 
 
 Roughtor, 309. Copper-mine 
 310. 
 
 Round Bury, 792. 
 
 Round Island, 478. 
 
 Rounds, 408, 452, 453, 457- 
 Roundy Pound, 161. 
 Rousdon, 54. 
 
 Rovvdon Wood, 234. 
 
 Rowe the dramatist, birtb 
 place, 237. 
 
 Ruan Lanihorne, 366. Mine) 
 430. Major, 430. 
 
 Ruan’s Well, St., 430. 
 Rugged Jack, 273. 
 
 1 Rugglestone, 205. 
 
 | Rundlestone, 462. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 491 
 
 SACRED. 
 
 s. 
 
 Sacred Circles, xxi. 
 Sadborough House, 43. 
 Salcombe, 157, 187. Harbour, 
 187. Castle, 188. Down, 
 60. Hill, 63. 
 
 Salston House, 53. 
 
 Saltash, 134, 339. Viaduct, 
 33 8. 
 
 Sal tram, 112, 137. 
 
 Salt Stone, 243. 
 
 Sampford Courtenay, 72. 
 
 Peverell, 3. Spiney, 237. 
 Samson, 476. 
 
 Sancreed, 452. 
 
 Sand, 63. 
 
 Sandford, 253. 
 
 Sandhills, xliv^ 
 
 Sandplace, 378. 
 
 Sandridge, 104, 175. 
 
 Saxon's Burrow, 283. 
 Schorl-rock, xl. 
 
 Scilly, Islands of, 470. Islet, 
 476. 
 
 Scob Hill, 277. 
 
 Scorhill Circle, 159. 
 Scorraton, 200. 
 
 Scorrier Gate stat., 405. 
 House, 405. 
 
 Scythe-stone quarries, 3- 
 Sea-beaches, ancient, xliii. 
 Seacombe House, 43. 
 
 Seakale, 184. 
 
 Seal Cave, 292. 
 
 Seaton, 44, 56. River, 375. 
 Sector House, 43. 
 Seine-fishing, lx. 
 
 Sennen church- town, 458. 
 
 Cove, 460. 
 
 Serpentine, xxx* _ 
 
 Seven Stones, 471, 479. Tors, 
 285. 
 
 Sewer- Mill Cove, 189. 
 Shabicombe, 190. 
 
 Shaldon, 93. 
 
 Sharkham Point, 178. 
 
 Shark’s Fin, 459. 
 
 Sharpham, 104. Lodgi X04. 
 Sharpitor, 107, 14% 199, 348. 
 Sharp Point Tor, 348. 
 Sharrow Grot, 375. 
 
 Shaugh, 224. Bridge. 224. 
 
 Beacon, 225. 
 
 Sheafhayne House, 49. 
 Shebbeare, John, birthplace, 
 266. 
 
 Sheep, lxx. 
 
 Sheeps tor, 218, 226, 
 Shellands, 236. 
 
 Shell Top, 109. 
 
 Shelstone Pound, 75. 
 Shercombe, 280. 
 
 Sheviock, 343.' 
 
 Shillingford, 19 1. 
 Shillingliain, 341. 
 
 STANBOROUGH. 
 
 Shipman Head, 477. 
 Shobrook, 253. Park, 41, 
 250. 
 
 Shovel, Sir Cloudesley, death 
 of, 472. 
 
 Shute, 44. House, 44, 61. 
 Shutter Rock, the, 292. 
 
 Sid, river, 62, 65. 
 
 Sidbury, 63. Hill, 63. Castle, 
 64. 
 
 Sidenham, Humphrey, birth- 
 place, 301. 
 
 Sidford, 63. 
 
 Sidmouth, 62. Environs and 
 Excursions, 63, 64. Vale, 
 62. 
 
 Sidney Cove, 435. 
 
 Sidney Godolphin Mine, 436. 
 Silver-lead mines, 280. 
 
 Silver Well, 409. 
 
 Silverton Park, 39. 
 Simonsbath, 278. 
 
 Sisters rocks, 454. 
 
 Sithuly, 422. 
 
 Sittaford Tor, 162. 
 
 Skat Tor, 19 1, 194. 
 
 Skeleton tours, lxxiv. 
 Skelywadden, 444. 
 
 Slade, 108. 
 
 Slap ton, 184. Lea, 184. Sands, 
 184. 
 
 Slate-quarries, 202, 242. 
 Slaughter Bridge, 319. 
 Sloven’s Bridge, 319. 
 
 Small Hanger china-clay 
 works, 109. 
 
 Smallmoutli, 283. 
 Smelting-furnaces, Ivi. 
 
 Smith, Great and Little, 475. 
 Smithike, 401. 
 
 Soap Rock, 425. 
 
 Sound, the, 129. 
 
 Sounding Gate, 202. 
 
 Sourton Down, 87. 
 
 South Brent, 105. Beacon, 
 105. 
 
 South Carn, 46 r. 
 
 South Down, 59. 
 
 South Hams, lxiii. 
 
 South Herod’s Foot Mine, 
 i 46 - 
 
 South Molton, 256. 
 
 South Pool, 243. 
 
 South Zeal, 222. 
 
 Sowton, 69. 
 
 Span Head, 276, 
 
 Spar, lvii. 
 
 Spinsters’ Rock, 74, 157. 
 Spitcli wick, 199. 
 
 Sportsman’s Arms, 307, 392. 
 Spreyton, 76. 
 
 Staddon Heights, 132. 
 
 Stair Hole, 188. 
 
 Stamford Hill, 136, 393. 
 Stanborough Castle, 103, 
 Camp, 243. 
 
 SYWARD. 
 
 Stanbury Creek, 397. 
 Stannary Court, xxxi, 357. 
 Laws, xlviii. Parliaments, 
 xlvii, 213. Prisons, xlvii, 
 83, 357. Records, 361. 
 Stannaton Down, 236. 
 Stapletor, 217. 
 
 Star Castle, 472. 
 
 Starcross, 90. Stat., 90. 
 
 Start Point, 185. 
 
 Staverton, 195. 
 
 Staverton Bridge, 103. 
 Steam-bridge, 339. 
 
 Steamers, 265, 286. 
 
 Steatite, xxxv, 426. 
 Stedcombe House, 55. 
 Steeperton Tor, 81, 221. 
 Steeple Cove, 189. 
 
 Stephen’s, St., in Brannel, 
 364. Down, 392. 
 
 Stepper Point, 331. 
 Stevenstone House, 259. 
 Sticklepath, 75. 
 
 Stithians, 407. 
 
 Stockeridge, 299. 
 
 Stockleigh Pomeroy, 40. 
 Stoke, 129. Climsland, 392. 
 Fleming, 183. Gabriel, 104, 
 175. Point, 246. 
 
 Stokeley House, 185. 
 Stokenham, 185. 
 
 Stone avenues, xxiii, 109, 158, 
 159, 160, 218, 348. Hedges, 
 lxii. Pillars, xxiii. 
 
 Stone Dance, 468. 
 
 Stonehouse, 112, 122. Marine 
 Barracks, 123. Naval Hos- 
 pital, 123. Victualling- 
 yard, 122. 
 
 Stones, the, 41 1. 
 
 Stony ford, 328. 
 
 Stoodleigh Court, 299. 
 Stothard, where he died, 
 J29. 
 
 Stover Lodge, 14 1. Canal 
 
 145. 
 
 Stow, 397. 
 
 Stratton, 392. 
 
 Stream- works, liii. 
 
 Street, 184. 
 
 Street-an-Nowan, 466. 
 
 Strete Raleigh Manor House, 
 53 - 
 
 Submarine forests, xliv, 167. 
 Subterranean chambers, 433 * 
 Summercourt, 317. 
 
 Sun Rock, 474. 
 
 Sutton Pool, 1 21. 
 
 Swan Pool, 405. 
 
 Swimbridge, 264. 
 
 Swincombe, 215. 
 
 Sydenham, 234, 240. Mount, 
 300. South, 237. 
 Symonsborough, 3. 
 
 Syth’s, St., Beacon, 329. 
 
 Sy ward’s Cross, 219. 
 
492 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 TALL AND. 
 
 T. 
 
 Talland, 379. 
 
 Tamar river, 87, 129, 134, 
 IJ8, 235, 303, u 1, 33 9 . 
 388. Source, 398. Silver- 
 lead mine, 237. 
 
 Tamerton Creek, 135. Foliot. 
 i*5- 
 
 Taue, St., 318. 
 
 Tape ley Park, 264. 
 
 Taphouse, 2 33* West, 356. 
 Tar Balk, 428. 
 
 Taunton, 2. Yale of, 3. 
 
 — — to Lynmouth and Lyn- 
 ton, 196. 
 
 Tavistock, 228. Abbey, 229. 
 Church, 231 . Eminent na- 
 tives, 2 3 2. Excursions, 
 
 232-239- 
 
 to ukehampton, 221. 
 
 Tavy Cleave, 86, 221, 236. 
 River, 134, 136, 228, 2 13 , 
 236. Source, 80, 208. Yale, 
 86, 220, 228, 236. 
 
 Taw river, 72, 258, 263, 268, 
 287. Source, 80, 208. 
 Marsh, 75. Yale, 260. 
 Tawstock Court, 260. 
 
 Tawton, Bishop’s, 260. 
 
 North, 72. South, 75. 
 Taylor’s Island, 475. 
 
 Tean, 478. 
 
 Teath, St., 328. 
 
 Tedbum, St. Mary, 74. 
 Tehidy, 408. 
 
 Teigncoomb, 160. 
 
 Teigngrace, 14 1. 
 Teignmouth,92. Excursions, 
 93. Stat., 92. 
 
 Teign river, 92, 94, 141, 155, 
 159, 191. Source, 161, 208. 
 Yalley, 192, 194. 
 Temperature of Devon and 
 Cornwall, lxx. 
 
 Templar Rock, the, 291. 
 Temple, 314. Tor, 315. 
 
 Ten Oaks, 302. 
 
 Termolus of Romans, 257. 
 Tertiary deposits, xliii. 
 Thankes, 134, 339 • 
 
 Thatcher Rock, 167. 
 
 Theodore Palseologus, tomb, 
 387. 
 
 Thomas’s, St., stat., 88. 
 
 Thorn, 60. 
 
 Thorncombe, 43. 
 
 Thorverton, 40. 
 
 Three-barrow Tor, 107. 
 Throwleigh, 75; 158. 
 Thurlestone, 190. 
 
 Tideford, 343. 
 
 Timberscombe, 301. 
 
 Timewell House, 299. 
 
 TREBOWLING. 
 
 Tin, grain, liii. History, 
 xliv. Islands, xlv, 470. 
 Lodes, xlix. Mining, xlix. 
 Ores, xlviii. White, lvi. 
 Tinckier’s Point, 478. 
 Tintagel, 323. Castle, 324. 
 
 Church, 327. Head, 323. 
 Titanium, where first disco- 
 vered, 432. 
 
 Tiverton, 37. Junction, 4. 
 Castle, church, 37. Alms- 
 houses, grammar-school, 
 manufactures, 38. 
 
 Tober, 309. 
 
 Tolcarne, valley, 419. 
 
 Tolch Gate, 109. 
 
 Tolmen, the, 400, 421. 
 Tolmen Point, 473. 
 
 Tolmens, xxiii, 159, 400, 421, 
 468, 473. 
 
 Tol Pedn Penwith, 462. 
 Toogood, Micaiah, birthplace, 
 41- 
 
 Tooth Rock, 473. 
 
 Topsham, 69, 88. 
 
 Tor Abbey, 166. Bryan, 97. 
 Mohun, 166. Stat., 163. 
 Wood Mine, 82. 
 
 Torbay, 167. Fishery, 176. 
 Landing-place of the Prince 
 of Orange, 167. 
 
 Torcross, 184. 
 
 Torpoint, 134, 339- 
 Torquay, 165. Excursions, 
 17 1. Stat., 163. 
 
 to Brixham and Dart- 
 mouth, 174. 
 
 Torridge Canal, 260. River, 
 264, 265, 302. Source, 398. 
 Yalley, 2^0, 265. 
 Torrington, 259. 
 
 Tors, 208. 
 
 Tor’s Steps, 279, 301. 
 
 Totnes, 97. Castle, 99. 
 
 Church, 99. Library, ex- 
 cursions, 100, 104. Stat., 
 97- 
 
 to Buckfastleigh and 
 
 Ashburton, 195. 
 
 to Plymouth, 247. 
 
 Toup, Rev. Jonathan, birth- 
 place, 446. His living, 
 
 3 79- 
 
 To wan Head, 336. 
 
 Towans, xliv, 412. 
 
 Towednack, 444. 
 
 Tracey House, 46. 
 
 Track-lines, 205. 
 
 Trackways, xxv, 107, 145, 
 146, 212, 213. 
 
 Trappean rocks, xxxvi. 
 Traveller’s View, lxii. 
 Trawl-fishing, lviii, 176. 
 Trebarwith Strand, 327. 
 Trebartha Hall, 307. 
 
 I Trebowling Hill, 407. 
 
 TREVENA. 
 
 Trecarrel, 307. 
 
 Trecroben Hill, 412. 
 
 Tredrea, 413. 
 
 Tre-Druith, 406. 
 
 Treen, 461, 464. 
 
 Treenethack Cross, 457. 
 Treewoofe, 467. 
 
 Treffry, Mr. J. T., birthplace, 
 383. Residence, 382. 
 Treffry Lead Smelting 
 Works, 361. 
 
 Treffry Viaduct, 360. 
 Trefusis, 403. 
 
 Tregantle, Lower, 375. 
 Higher, 375. 
 
 Tregeagle, Giant, 313, 316, 
 35 8. 386. 
 
 Tregeagle’sHole,386. Quoits, 
 3 66, 386. 
 
 Tregear Bottom, 356. 
 Tregedna, 402. 
 
 Tregenna, 445. 
 
 Tregeseal Circle, 457. 
 Tregolls, 3 68, 370. 
 Tregonebris Hill, 457. 
 Tregony, 366. 
 
 Tregonning Hill, 434. 
 Tregoss Moors, 316. 
 Tregothnan, 368, 404. 
 Tregrehan, 362. 
 
 Trehane, 367. 
 
 Trelawne, 377. Mill, inlet 
 of, 377- 
 
 Trelawny, Bishop, 379. 
 Treleaver Hill, 401. 
 
 Trelissic, 370, 404. 
 
 Trelo warren, 433. 
 
 Trematon Castle, 340. Law, 
 
 Tremayne, 317, 432. 
 Tremenkeverne, 436. 
 
 Trenant Park, 377. 
 
 Treneere, 418. 
 
 Trenegloss, 317. 
 
 Trenemer Rock, 473. 
 Trengwainton,4i8,420. Cam, 
 419, 451. 
 
 Trentishoe, 280. Barrow, 280. 
 Trereife, 418, 457. 
 
 Trerice, 317, 339. 
 
 Treryn, 463. Castle, 463. 
 Tresavean Mine, 407. 
 Tresawsen, 368. 
 
 Tresco, 477. Abbey, 477. 
 Tresilian Bridge, 367. Creek, 
 368. 
 
 Trethevey. 322. 
 
 Trethill, 344. 
 
 Trevalgan Hill, 446. 
 Trevarnon Rounds, 410. 
 Trevaunance Porth, 374. 
 Trevailer, 446. 
 
 Trevaylor, 418. 
 
 Treveddoe tin stream-work, 
 
 35 1- 
 
 Trevena, 32 3. 
 
INDEX, 
 
 493 
 
 TREVERBYN. 
 
 Treverbyn Vean, 35 1. 
 Trevethow, 41 3 . 
 
 Trevethy Stone, 346. 
 
 Tre vince, 407. 
 
 Trevorder, 313. 
 
 Trevose Head, 333. 
 
 Tre wan, 334. 
 
 Trewartha Tor, 348. 
 Trewarthenick, 3 66. 
 Trewavas Head, 434. 
 Trewidden, 418, 457. 
 Trewinnard, 413. 
 
 Trewint, 308. 
 
 Trewithen, 367. 
 
 Trink Hill, 444. 
 
 Trippet Stones, 315. 
 
 Troove, 467. 
 
 Trowlsworthy Tor, 225. 
 Truen,457. 
 
 Truro, 317, 368. River, 368, 
 370, 404. 
 
 Truro to Falmouth, 399. 
 
 to Penzance, 405, 421. 
 
 Trusham, 194. 
 
 Try Yalley, 420. 
 
 Tudy, St., 3 29. 
 
 Two Barrows Hill, 309. 
 
 Two Bridges, 213. 
 
 Two Waters Foot, 349. 
 
 U. 
 
 Uffculme, 5. 
 
 Ugborougk, 247. Beacon, 247. 
 
 Castle, 247. 
 
 Ugbrooke Park, 192. 
 Umberleigh Bridge, 258,301. 
 
 Stat., 258. 
 
 United Mines, 407. 
 
 Upcott, 40, 194, 264. 
 
 Uplyme, 43. 
 
 Upton, 176. Pyne, 249. 
 
 V. 
 
 Vale Down, 82. 
 
 Valleyof Rocks, 272. Cornish, 
 323. 
 
 Varfell, 413. 
 
 Vectis, ancient, xlv. 
 
 Veep, St., 382. 
 
 Vellan Dreath, 460. Point, 
 426. 
 
 Venn House, 237. 
 
 Veryan Bay, 386. Beacon, 
 386. 
 
 Virtuous Lady Mine and 
 Cave, 236, 237. 
 
 Vitifer Mine, 15 1. 
 
 Viverdon Down, 388. 
 
 Vivian, Lord, birthplace, 3 70. 
 Vixen Tor, 220. 
 
 WHEARE. 
 
 w. 
 
 Waddeton Court, 104, 175. 
 Waddon Rocks, 194. 
 Wadebridge, 329. 
 
 Waldon Hill, 165. 
 
 Walk across Dartmoor, 221. 
 Walkham river, 217, 220, 
 228, 236. Valley ^ef, 220, 
 228, 236. 
 
 Walkhampton, 228. 
 
 Walla brook, 159, 233- 
 Wallaford Down, 105, 201. 
 Wallis, Captain, birthplace, 
 318. Residence, 432. 
 Walreddon House, 234. 
 Warbstow Barrow, 317. 
 Ward Bridge, 236. 
 
 Warfleet, 181. 
 
 Warleggan, 314, 351. 
 Warleigh, 134, 136, 138, 2 35. 
 Tor, 135. 
 
 Warren, the, 68, 90. 
 
 Watch Kill, 477. 
 
 Watchet, 296. 
 
 Watcombe, 94, 172. 
 Watergate Bay, 3 36. 
 Watermill Bay, 474. 
 Watermouth, 283. 
 
 Watern Tor, 162. Oak, 221. 
 Waters’ Meet, 272. 
 
 Wattle Down, 36. 
 
 Watton Court, 104, 175. 
 Wear Gifford, 260. Manor- 
 house, 266. Oak, 266. 
 Webburn, river, 199. 
 
 Week St. Mary, 394. 
 
 Weir House, 69. Head, 134, 
 135.223, 23 J. 
 
 Welcombe, 296. 
 
 Wellington, 2. 
 
 Wellington Monument, 3. 
 Wellington’s Sarcophagus, 
 360. 
 
 Wembury, 246. 
 
 Wem worthy, 255. 
 
 Wendron, St., 422.. 
 
 Wenford Bridge, 356. 
 
 Wenn, 356. 
 
 Wer ring ton Park, 307, 392. 
 Wesley, the scene of his 
 preaching, 407, 469. Where 
 he first preached in Corn- 
 wall, 419. 
 
 Wesley’s Rock, 419. 
 
 West Alvington, 242. 
 
 West Down Beacon, 67. 
 Western Beacon, 106, 107. 
 Weston Mouth, 59. 
 
 super-Mare, 2. 
 
 Westward Ho, 267. 
 
 Weycroft Bridge, 44. 
 
 Wheare, Digory, birthplace, 
 
 3 95 . 
 
 WOOLEY. 
 
 Wherry Mine, 466. 
 Whetstone quarries, 3, 47. 
 Whimple stat., 53. 
 Whispering Stone, 361. 
 Whitaker the antiquary, his 
 rectory, 366. Grave, 366. 
 Whitchurch, 228. Down, 
 236. 
 
 White ale, 187, 242. 
 Whitehall Tunnel, 3 . 
 
 White Cliff, 56. 
 
 White Island, 478. 
 
 White Stone, 191. 
 
 White Tor, 213* 
 
 Whiteford House, 392. 
 Whitehorse Hill, 162. 
 Whitepebble Bay, 285. 
 Whiterock, 202. 
 
 Whitesand Bay, 375, 376, 
 458, 460. 
 
 Whiteway House, 194. 
 Whyddon Park, 155, 163. 
 Widdecombe, 185. In the 
 Moor, 204. 
 
 Widegates, 243. 
 
 Widemouth Bay, 396. 
 
 Widey Court, 138. 
 Widworthy, 45. Court House, 
 45 . 
 
 Wilcove, 341. 
 
 Wild Tor, 222. 
 
 Willapark Head, 321. Point, 
 321, 323. 
 
 William’s Height, 403. Field, 
 
 4 ° 3 . 
 
 Williton, 296. 
 
 Wilsey Down, 317, 
 
 Windmill Hill Cavern, 177. 
 Windstone Pits, 189. 
 Winkleigh, 255. 
 
 Winnow, St., 382. 
 
 Winsford, 279, 301. 
 
 Winstow, the, Ixvii. 
 Wiscombe Park, 61. 
 Wistman’s Wood, 214. 
 Withehy, 65. 
 
 Withiel, 356. 
 
 Withycombe, 68. 
 
 Withypool, 279. 
 
 Wolborough, 96. 
 
 Wolcott, Dr., birthplace, 242. 
 
 School, 345. 
 
 Wolf Rock, 459. 
 
 Wolford Lodge, 4. 
 
 Wonham, 299. 
 
 Wonwell Court, 24'. 
 Woodbury Castle, 64. Com- 
 mon, 68. Hill, 64. Road 
 stat., 70. 
 
 Woodford Bridge, 302. 
 Woodleigh, 243. 
 
 Woodville, 188. 
 
 Woolacombe, 285. 
 
 W ooibrook Glen, 65. 
 
 Wooley Barrows, 398. 
 
494 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 WOOSTON. 
 
 Wooston Castle, 15 1. 
 Worlington, 256. 
 
 Worth, 39. 
 
 Worthy vale, 319. 
 
 Wrestling Matches, Ixix. 
 Written Stone, 450. Down 
 of the, 450. 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yacht Club, the Cornwall, 
 403. The Dart, 182. 
 
 LONDON : PRINTED 
 
 YEOFORP. 
 
 Yalden the poet, birthplace, 
 ! 12. 
 
 Yard bury, 6:. 
 
 Yart, river, 44. 
 
 Yartor, 199. 
 
 Yealra, 246. Bridge, 248. 
 Cavern, 248. Estuary, 246. 
 Head, 107. River, 109, 
 208. 
 
 Yealmpton, 248. 
 
 Yellow Carn, 428. 
 
 Yeo Yale, 266. 
 
 Yeoford Stat., 254. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, 
 AND CHARING CROSS. 
 
 ZENNOR. 
 
 Yes Tor, 78, 209. 
 York House, 418. 
 Youlston Park, 264. 
 
 z. 
 
 Zawn Kellis, 462. 
 
 Zawn Pyg, 461. 
 
 Zawn Reeth, 461. 
 
 Zeal, South, 74, 222. 
 Zennor, 446. Quoit, 446. 
 
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 Per dozen. | Per dozon. 
 
 Clarets— Medoc 15s. to 24s. 1 Hock— Nierstein .... 30s. 
 
 St. Estephe,Margaux,&c.30s. to 36s. Hochheim .... 36s. to 42s. 
 
 St. Julien, &c. . . . 42s. Other Qualities . . 48s. to 120s. 
 
 Other Qualities . . . 48s. to 150s. Sparkling Hock& Moselle 42s. to 54s. 
 
 Burgundies— Beaune . . 24s. to30s. Champagne 42s. to 72s. 
 
 Volnay . . 36s. to 42s. Sherries— Pale, Gold, &c. . 36s. to 60s. 
 
 Other Qualities 48s. to 8-1 s. Port . . * 36s. to 72s. 
 
 Chablis . . 30s. to 54s. Fine Old Vintage Wines . 84s. to 126s. 
 
 Hock— Oppenheim .... 21s. I Marsala 24s. 
 
 AND OTHER WINES. 
 
 Clarets, Burgundies, Sherries, &c., by the Hogshead or Half-Hogshead at reduced Prices. 
 Detailed Price Lists may be obtained qf C. CARR <t Co., 14. Bishopsgate Street Within. 
 
1873 . 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 7 
 
 A I X LES BAINS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 Proprietor, J. BERNASCON. 
 
 j^IRST-CLASS House, admirably situated near the Casino, 
 the Baths, and the English Church. This Hotel is 
 strongly recommended to travellers for the comfort of its 
 arrangements. Good Gardens, with a beautiful view of the 
 Lake and Mountains. Large and small Apartments for Families 
 at moderate prices, and a Chalet in the Garden for Families 
 who may prefer being out of the Hotel. Excellent Table- 
 d’Hofce. 
 
 Carriages for hire, and an Omnibus belonging to the 
 Hotel to meet every Train. 
 
 AM PH ION (Haute-Savoie). 
 
 BAINS D’AMPHION. 
 
 The only Bath Establishment really situated on the Borders 
 of the Lake of Geneva, 
 
 NEAR EVIAN. 
 
 ^THE Alkaline Waters of Ampliion are of the same nature as 
 -L those of Evian (according to the official analysis made of them) ; and 
 are recommended to Invalids suffering from all kinds of Diseases where 
 Alkaline Waters are required. The ferruginous Waters of Ampliion, 
 enjoying an ancient celebrity, are also strongly recommended in cases 
 requiring the use of tonics. Three fine Hotels connected with the Esta- 
 blishment. Baths of all Descriptions. Good attendance. Magnificent 
 Park and Garden. Splendid View. Billiard and Conversation Booms. 
 Telegraphic Station. Steamboats, &c. 
 
 The Hotels of Ampliion are Branches of the Hotel Beau-Site of Cannes 
 (Alpes Maritimes\ the Proprietor of which is Mr. Georges Gougoltz. 
 whose well-merited reputation acquired in that locality is a guarantee of 
 their excellence and accommodation, 
 
8 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 AMSTERDAM. 
 
 AMSTEL HOTEL. 
 
 T)UILT Six Years ago. Situated near the Rhenish Railway 
 ■*7 Station, the Zoological and Botanical Gardens, &c. Cheerful view 
 of the City and the Amstel River. Patronised by English and American 
 Families. First-rate Table and excellent Wines, 
 
 Terms Moderate. 
 
 Telegraph Office and Stables attached to the Hotel, 
 
 ANTWERP, 
 
 HOTEL ST. ANTOINE, 
 
 PLACE VERTE, 
 
 OPPOSITE THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 r JpHIS Excellent first-class Hotel, which enjoys the 
 well-merited favour of Families and Tourists, has been 
 repurchased by its old and well-known Proprietor, Mr. Schmitt- 
 Spaenhoven; who, with his Partner, will do everything in 
 their power to render the visit of all persons who may honour 
 them with their patronage as agreeable and comfortable as 
 possible. Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK FOR NORTH 
 GERMANY AND THE RHINE 
 
 CONTAINS 
 
 A FULL DESCRIPTION OF ANTWERP, THE CATHEDRAL, &c. 
 Price 12s. 
 
 LTO BE HAD OF ALL BOOKSELLERS. 
 
1873. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 9 
 
 ANTWE R P- 
 
 HOTEL DU GRAND LABOUREUR, 
 
 PLACE BE MEIR, 26. 
 
 THIS old-established and highly-recommended Hotel, which 
 has been considerably enlarged, is situated in the finest and 
 healthiest square of the city of Antwerp ; its cleanliness and 
 the excellency of the Table-d’Hote and Wines, added to the 
 attention and civility shown to all visitors, have made it 
 deservedly popular. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS. 
 
 ENGLISH AND FRENCH NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 H OTEL DU DANEMARCK.— Second-Class Hotel, very 
 
 well situated, just opposite the landing-place of the London and Hamburg Steamers. 
 Very good and clean Rooms, at moderate Prices, Good attendance. English and French 
 Newspapers taken in. Table d’Hdte at 1 and 5 o’clock. English, French, and German 
 spoken. Restaurant. N.B — This Hotel has been newly re-fitted up and improved by 
 M. EGELIE, the new Proprietor, who endeavours by the most strict attention to deserve the 
 patronage of English Travellers. 
 
 ANTWE R P. 
 
 Prize Medals in the last Belgian Exhibitions of 1826, 1835, 184.1, fy 1847. 
 Diploma of Excellence in the Exhibition of Amsterdam, 1869. 
 
 J. H. VAN 'BJLLMGH k MAX*. SUMMIT, 
 
 LINEN MARKET, No. 9, MARCHE AH LINGE, No. 9, 
 
 Near the Cathedral , Antwerp. 
 
 THE oldest Manufactory of the Celebrated Antwerp Washing Black Silks, 
 A so much esteemed all over Europe. Taffetas Gros Grain, Gros Reps, Royal, &c., and 
 the splendid Faille Silk for Dresses. Neckerchiefs, &c., &c. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 Second Edition, Revised, with Woodcuts, Post 8vo., lOsj 6 d. 
 
 T IVES OF THE EARLY FLEMISH PAINTERS. With 
 
 "*■* Notices of their Works. By J. A Crowe and G. B. Cavalcaselle. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
10 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 May, 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLMDE RESTAURANT (stroobaws), 
 
 Rue do l’Etuve, 
 
 Close to the London and Hull Steamboat Wharf . 
 
 THIS HOTEL, being now entirely under a new management, and being 
 newly fitted up with great comfort, is recommended to English travellers, or families! 
 who will find every convenience. Choice Wines of the best vintages. English Daily and 
 Weekly Newspapers. Every attention is paid to travellers by the landlord, Mr. Stroobant, 
 who speaks English, and being well acquainted with the Continent, can furnish every infor- 
 mation required. Table d’Hdte at Half-past Twelve and Five o’clock. Private Dinners at 
 any hour. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 HOTEL DES FLANDRES, 
 
 No. 9, Place Yerte. 
 
 Mr, J. J. LAMBERT, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS HOTEL, near the Entrance to the Cathedral, is 
 
 recommended by Visitors from England and America, for comfort and 
 moderate charges. The Proprietor speaks English, 
 
 1 he Post-office and Rubens’ Statue are situated in the Place Verte, 
 
 ATHENS- 
 
 HOTEL DES STRANGERS, 
 
 Near the Royal Palace. 
 
 In the most delightful situaton, opposite the Royal Gardens, near the Palace. The best 
 Hotel in Athens. Moderate prices; good attendance. All languages spoken. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDE and Dependance. 
 
 A U BEAU SEJOUR. — A. Roessler, Proprietor. This favourite and first-class 
 L*- Hotel, situated near the Kursaal, Promenade, and Theatre, commands one of the most 
 charming views in Baden. The Hotel and Dependance consist of One Hundred and Sixty 
 Sleeping Apartments, elegant Sitting-rooms, and a Garden for the use of visitors. Extensive 
 and airy Dining-room, and a comfortable Public Sitting-room, with Piano and Library. It is 
 conducted under the immediate superintendence of the Proprietor, who endeavours, by the 
 most strict attention and exceedingly Moderate Prices, to merit the continued patronage of 
 English and American visitors. English and American Newspapers. The Table d’H6te and 
 Wines of this Hotel are reputed of the best quality in Baden. Fixed moderate charges for 
 everything. Rooms from 2s. and upwards. 
 
 Mr. Roessler will spare no pains to deserve the confidence of English Travellers. Open 
 during the winter. English is spoken. 
 
 Seventh Edition, with Illustrations, Post 8vo., 7s. 6 d. 
 
 pUBBLES FROM THE BRUNNEN OF NASSAU. By 
 
 h gir Fbancis B. Head, Bart. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1873. 
 
 M TOKAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 tt 
 
 BADEN-BADEN, 
 
 VICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. FRANZ GROSKOLZ. 
 
 THIS is one of the finest built and best furnished First-class 
 
 Hotels, situated on the new Promenade, near the Kursaal and Theatre ; it 
 commands the most charming views in Baden. It is reputed to be one of the best 
 Hotels in Germany. The Table and Wines are excellent, with prompt attendance 
 and great civility. Prices very moderate. English and other Journals. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL. 
 
 Proprietor — Mr. J. TH. KAUB. 
 
 THIRST-RATE Hotel for Families and Single Gentlemen, 
 
 JL close to the Station. Kursaal and Promenade. Table d’Hote. Private 
 Dinner to order. English spoken by all the attendants. The utmost attention 
 and civility. Reading-room. The Hotel is superintended by the new Proprietor, 
 who has been 10 years in England, during which time he has travelled with 
 Charles Dickens, Esq,, the Duke of Sutherland, and other distinguished English 
 families. — Mr, KAUB exports Wines to England. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 AMERICAN HOTEL AND PENSION, 
 
 Proprietors— H. & E. BILHARZ. 
 
 with splendid Apartments of all descriptions. Excellent accommodation, 
 and all that can be desired for Families and Single Gentlemen. 
 
 Excellent Wines, and Table d’Hote in the town at Ope and Five o’clock, 
 
 Arrangements made by the week, &c. 
 
 Terms very moderate . 
 
 THE TRAVELLER’S COMPANION. 
 
 Fifth Edition, with Woodcuts, Small 8vo., 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE ART OF TRAVEL ; or, Hints on the Shifts and 
 1 Contrivances available in Wild Countries. By Francis Galton, 
 j F.R.G.S., Author of “ The Explorer in South Africa.” 
 
 'j “ Mr. Galton publishes this little volume for the use of tourists who travel far and ‘ rough 
 it.’ it would also put some 'useful ideas into the heads of men who stay at home.”— 
 j Ixaminer. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
12 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 BAGNERES-DE-BIGORRE (Haute Pyrenees.) 
 
 HOTEL DE PARIS. 
 
 LARGE FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL 
 
 With over 100 Large and Small 
 
 SALOONS AND CHAMBERS. 
 
 RESTAURANT. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE. 
 
 \ _ 
 
 LARGE GARDEN 
 
 FACING THE 
 
 PROMENADE 13 E CAUST ONS, 
 
 Well known to English Families. 
 
 FULL SOUTH. 
 
 MOUNTAIN GUIDES. 
 
 B. NOGUES, Proprietor. 
 
1873/ 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 13 
 
 BALE. 
 
 I-I O T E X, SCHRIE X> E R, , 
 
 /OPPOSITE the German Railway Station for Baden-Baden, Frankfort, etc., also 
 V-/ to Schaffbausen (Ilhinefall), Zurich, and any other Swiss Town. Large Rooms with 
 Saloons. Special Saloons for Ladies. English and French Newspapers. Post and Telegraph 
 Offices. Very moderate cha rges. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 BARCELONA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES QTJATRE NATIONS. 
 
 IN THE RAMBLA. 
 
 Kept by Messrs. FORTIS & CO. 
 r j\HIS is a first-rate Establishment, advantageously situated close to 
 
 the Post-office and the Theatre, with a southern aspect, and newly decorated. Table- 
 d’hote; private service ; large and small apartments; many fire-places; baths; reading- 
 rooms ; Spanish and foreign newspapers. Carriages of every description. Omnibus at the 
 Railway Stations. Interpreters. Moderate terms. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE, 
 
 2, PLACE AH DEE BATTACADEMIE, 2. 
 
 SITUATED IN THE FINEST AND MOST ELEGANT PART OF THE TOWN, 
 Near to the Royal Palaces, Museums, and Theatres. 
 
 Single travellers and large families can be accommodated with entire suites of Apartments, 
 consisting of splendid Saloons, airy Bedrooms, <&c., all furnished and carpeted in the best 
 English style. First-rate Table-d’Hote, Baths, Equipages, Guides. Times and Galignani’s 
 Messenger taken in. Residence of Her British Majesty’s Messengers. 
 
 R. BIERELIST, Proprietor. 
 
 BERNE (Switzerland). 
 
 MUSICAL BOXES, 
 
 WOOD CARVINGS, SCULPTURES, to., to., 
 
 OF 
 
 J. PL HELLER 
 
 AT BERNE. 
 
 No such Selection anywhere else, and, above all, 
 Large Music-performing Articles. 
 
 ORCHESTRIONS- ELECTRIC PIANOS- 
 
 Concert every evening during the Season . 
 
H MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 BIARRITZ. 
 
 GRAND HO 
 
 OR 
 
 MAISON GARDERES. 
 
 Branch of the HOTEL I>E FRANCE. 
 
 SPLENDID HOUSE, 
 
 SITUATED IN THE FINEST POSITION. IS RECOMMENDED FOR 
 ITS GREAT COMFORT. 
 
 Charges extremely Moderate for Winter. 
 
 English Spoken. 
 
 TEL 
 
 CASINO DE BIARRITZ. 
 
 r IS immense Establishment, built on the Shores of the 
 
 Ocean, near the Plage, and in a splendid position, has just been entirely 
 restored by its new Proprietors, MM. GARDERES and CO. 
 
 It contains, 1st, a Hotel consisting of a hundred Apartments, furnished 
 with every modern comfort, and all of them having a view of the Sea. 
 
 2nd. A large Establishment of Baths, hot, sea, and fresh water ; to which 
 are attached a Hydropathic Chamber, and very complete Douche Baths. Also 
 Stoves for Russian Baths. 
 
 3rd. A CASINO, consisting of— 
 
 A Magnificent Terrace — A Covered Promenade 
 — A Ball Room — A Conversation Room — A 
 Private Boudoir for Ladies — A Reading Room 
 and Library — A Billiard Room — Two Gaming 
 Rooms as at Baden — Magnificent Dining Rooms, 
 Restaurant, and Cafe, 
 
 Which together present an ensemble unique in the world from its splendid 
 position, and the magnificent panorama which is displayed before us. 
 
 A Theatre open all the Year. 
 
 4th. The Casino is arranged for the Summer and Winter Season. During 
 Summer, which commences the 1st July and finishes the 31st October, Rooms 
 and Board are provided at all Prices. The Saloons are open to the Public for 
 1 fr. during the day, and 1 fr. at night ; or a Subscription of 30 fr. a month. 
 
 During Winter, which commences the 1st November and finishes the 
 1st July, there is a PENSION ANGLAISE, at 6 fr. 50 c. a day, including 
 Lodging, Food, Service, and the entree to the Saloons of the Casino. 
 
 The Heating is done by Steam Pipes. 
 
1873. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 15 
 
 BOLOGNA. 
 
 HOTEL BRUN OR SUISSE, 
 
 Mr. W. WELLEE, Proprietor. 
 
 TjHHE high reputation which this Hotel enjoys among the 
 travelling public, and more especially English and American 
 Families, is the strongest assurance of its superior arrangement 
 and comfort. 
 
 Eooms from 2 J francs upwards. 
 
 Table d’Hote, 4^- francs. 
 
 Beading Koom, Smoking Boom. 
 
 Billiard Boom and elegant Dining Boom. 
 
 Private Carriages to be obtained from the Hotel. 
 
 BONN. 
 
 ' 
 
 THE GOLDEN STAR HOTEL. 
 
 fTlHIS first-rate and unrivalled Hotel, patronized by the 
 English Boyal Family, Nobility, and Gentry, is the 
 nearest Hotel to the Bailway Station, and to the Landing- 
 places of the Bhine Steamers. 
 
 The Proprietor, Mr. J. SCHMITZ, begs leave to recommend 
 his Hotel to Tourists. 
 
 The Apartments are comfortably furnished and carpeted in 
 
 the best style, and the charges are moderate. 
 
 . 
 
 Arrangements for the Winter may be made, on the most 
 ; moderate terms. 
 
1G 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 May, 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD DREMEL. 
 
 fpRIS magnificent Hotel, in offering to the Visitor every 
 kind of comfort and accommodation, has the great advantage of 
 being situated adjoining 
 
 THE PALACE OF THE KING* 
 
 and facing 
 
 THE PLACE ROYALE AND THE PARK. 
 
 It contains numerous large and small Apartments, as well as single 
 Booms. 
 
 Table-cC Hote, richly served . Choice Wines . 
 
 SMOKING ROOM. 
 
 READING ROOM, with the best Belgian, English, French, 
 
 i 
 
 German, and American Daily Paper* and Periodicals. 
 
 Terraces, with Splendid View overlooking the Park. 
 
 ARRANGEMENTS MADE FOR THE WINTER. 
 
 Mr. Dremel, the new Proprietor of this Hotel, hopes to justify the 
 confidence placed in him, by a carefully arranged system of prompt and 
 civil attendance, ‘combined with moderate charges. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 17 
 
 1873. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 SUFFELL’S 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN BANK AND EXCHANGE 
 
 OFFICE, 
 
 81, MONTAGNE DE LA COUE, 
 
 ( Two doors from the Hotel dt V Europe,} 
 
 Changes Circular and Bank Notes, whether addressed to him or not, 
 Letters of Credit, &c. Cheques cashed at sight, on the London and 
 County Bank, Coutts, Drummond, Scott, London and Westminster, 
 Union Bank of London, and all other Banks in town or country. 
 Cashes Letters of Credit on Messrs. Brown, Shipley & Co., New York. 
 
 BRUSSELS HOUSE AGENCY. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 36 YEARS. 
 
 Apartments and Houses. Agency and General 
 Information, 
 
 Families can in full confidence apply to Mr. SUFFELL, 81, Montagne de 
 la COUR, who is English, and established here 36 years. Mr. S. accepts no fees 
 whatever for such services, but only solicits, in return, the patronage of his fellow- 
 countrymen in all that relates to Money-changing and Banking Business in 
 general. Lists of Prices of Apartments, Houses, Living, Education, &c„ on 
 application. 
 
 Write 'post free , and please enclose stamps for reply. 
 
 SUFFELL’S WINE STORES. 
 
 FINE OLD PALE AND GOLDEN SHERRY. PALE BRANDY. 
 ENGLISH SODA WATER. 
 
 BASS’S PALE ALE. GUINNESS’S STOUT. BOOTH’S OLD GIN. 
 HAVANNAH CIGARS, from the London Docks. 
 
 81, MONTAGNE DE LA COUIi. 
 
 Agent for the Calais and Ostend Royal Mail Packet Service ; Great Luxembourg, 
 The Rhine and Moselle Company ; Cunard, Inman, and the National, for 
 New York, 
 
18 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 G RAND HOTEL DE SAXE, 77 and 79, RUE NEUVE. Admirably situated 
 near the Boulevards, Theatres, and two minutes’ walk from the North Railway 
 Stations. This Establishment, which has been considerably enlarged, possesses now a most 
 splendid Dining-room, and offers to Families and Single Travellers spacious, comfortable, 
 and airy Apartments. Tariffs in every Room ,.— Fixed Prices: — Plain Breakfast lfr. 25c. 
 Two chops or steak, or ham and eggs, lfr. 50c. Table d’Hote at five o’clock, 3fr. 50c. Pri- 
 vate Dinners from 5fr. Bed-rooms, including light, 4 fr. 25c. ; 3fr. 75c.; 6fr. for the first 
 night, and for the following night 3fr. 50c. ; 3fr. : 5fr. ; and 4fr. Sitting-rooms from 3fr. to 
 I2fr. Attendance lfr. per night. London “ Times " and “Illustrated Ixmdon News" 
 taken in. Travellers having only a few hours to spend in Brussels, between the departure 
 of the trains, can have refreshments or dinners at any hour. The Waterloo Coach leaves 
 the Hotel at 9.30 o’clock every morning. Private Carriages for Waterloo 28fr., every 
 expense included. 
 
 KERVAND, Proprietor. 
 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’UNIVEES, 
 
 RUE NEUVE. 
 
 rpHIS first-class Hotel, situated in tlie centre of the Town, 
 
 opposite the new passage, near the Theatres, the Prome- 
 nade, and the beautiful Place des Martyrs, has just been 
 entirely refitted by the new Proprietor, Mr. Frederic 
 Schoeffter, well known for his long connection as Manager 
 of the Hotel St. Antoine, Antwerp. 
 
 The Hotel de PUnivers may now be considered as one of 
 the best Hotels in Brussels. 
 
 BRUGES. 
 
 HOTEL DE FLANDRE. 
 
 THIRST CLASS HOUSE. Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock. 
 
 Beautiful Garden. Hot and Cold Baths. 
 
 Arrangements can be made at any time during the year by 
 the week or month. 
 
 PENSION during Winter, commencing at £6 per Month. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 If) 
 
 CANNES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE GENEVE. 
 
 JJURST-CLASS HOUSE, situated outside the town, in a 
 shaded position. Large Garden. Sea View. Special 
 arrangements made for lengthened sojourn. Service a la 
 Carte. 
 
 OMNIBUS TO THE STATION. 
 
 ED. SCHMID, Proprietor. 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 ANGERS HOTEL. 
 
 It is neav the Springs, and in the most beautiful part of the town. Charges 
 strictly moderate. 
 
 N.B , — The Proprietor and his wife speak English . Deservedly recommended. 
 
 CHAM BERY. 
 
 HOTEL X>E FRANCE. 
 
 Mr. CHIRON, Proprietor. 
 
 A NEW Establishment, situated upon the Quay Nesin, in 
 
 an open, airy situation, close to the Railway Station. Large and small 
 Apartments, scrupulously clean. 
 
 TABLE D’KOTE AT 11 AND 6 O’CLOCK, 
 
20 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 CHAUMONT (near Neuchatel, Switzerland), 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION DE CHAUMONT, 
 
 C. RITZMANN, Proprietor. 
 
 T^HIS Hotel, exceedingly well situated for an extensive view 
 JL of the magnificent Panorama of the Alps and the surrounding scenery, contains 
 large and small Apartments, Saloons, Dining-rooms, Billiard and Reading-rooms. 
 Private Suites of Rooms for Families. Bath-rooms. New milk and whey supplied 
 on the premises. Leading country and foreign Newspapers. Telegraph Station 
 and Post-office here. Moderate charges. 
 
 Omnibus journalier depart de Neuchatel d 9 7j. du matin. 
 
 CHRISTIANIA. (Norway.) 
 
 I’.OI 
 
 HOTEL SCANDINAVIE. 
 
 THUS beautifully situated Hotel is well known by the 
 
 English Nobility for its Cleanliness, Good Attendance, and Moderate 
 
 Prices. 
 
 CHU. ATJG. SMITH, Proprietor. 
 
 CLARENS-MONTREUX. 
 
 HOTEL ET PENSION DES CRETES. 
 
 Opposite the Railway Station in the middle of the Promenades . 
 
 Magnificent View of tfie Lake and surrounding Alps. 
 
 I.AIJGE GARDEN. 
 
 1 
 
 Terms moderate. Pension from 5 francs a day. 
 
 LOUIS ROTH, Proprietor. 
 
 COB LENTZ. 
 
 THE ANCHOR HOTEL. 
 
 Mr. W. PRANG, Proprietor. 
 
 fpHlS well-known and highly recommended establishment, 
 which combines superior comfort and first-class accommodation, with careful 
 attendance and moderate charges, is situated just opposite the landing-place of the 
 Steam^s, and commands a magnificent view of the Rhine and the Castle of Ehren- 
 breitenstein. It is conducted in a manner to be found well worthy of the patronage 
 it enjoys of English and American families and travellers. Excellent Cooking. 
 Choice Wines. Foreign Papers. Cold and Warm Baths, and elegant Carriages in 
 the Hotel, Omnibus at the Station. 
 
1873. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 'Jl 
 
 COLOGNE ON THE RHINE. 
 
 JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
 GEGENDBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ 
 
 (Opposite the Jiilich’s Place), 
 
 PURVEYOR TO H. M. QTJEEN VICTORIA; 
 
 TO H. R. H. THE PRINCE OF WALES ; 
 
 TO II. M. THE KINO OF PRUSSIA; THE EMPEROR OF RUSSIA; 
 THE EMPEROR OF FRANCE; 
 
 THE KINO OF DENMARK, ETC. ETC., 
 
 , OF THE 
 
 ONLY GENUINE EAU DE COLOGNE, 
 
 Which obtained the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition 
 
 of 1867. 
 
 T HE frequency of mistakes, which are sometimes accidental, but for the. most 
 part the result of deception practised by interested individuals, induces me to request 
 the attention of English travellers to the following statement : — 
 
 The favourable reputation which my Eau de Cologne has acquired, since its invention by 
 my ancestor in the year 1709, has induced many people to imitate it ; and in order to be able 
 to sell their spurious article more easily, and under pretext that it was genuine, they pro- 
 cured themselves a firm of Farina, by entering into partnership with persons of my name, 
 which is a very common one in Italy. 
 
 Persons who wish to purchase the genuine and original Eau de Cologne ought to be parti- 
 cular to see that the labels and the bottles have not only my name, Johann Maria Farina , 
 but also the addi tional words, gegeniiber dem Julich’s Plata (that is, opposite the Julich’s 
 Place), without addition of any number. 
 
 Travellers visiting Cologne, and intending to buy my genuine article, are cautioned against 
 being led astray by cabmen, guides, commissioners, and other parties, who offer their services 
 to them. I therefore beg to state that my manufacture and shop are in the same house, 
 situated opposite the Julich’s Place, and nowhere else. It happens too, frequently, that the 
 said persons conduct the uninstructed strangers to shops of one of the fictitious firms, where 
 notwithstanding assertion to the contrary, they are remunerated with nearly the half part of 
 the price paid by the purchaser, who, of course, must pay indirectly this remuneration by a 
 high price and a bad article. 
 
 Another kind of imposition is, practised in almost every hotel in Cologne, where waiters, 
 commissioners, &c., offer to strangers Eau de Cologne, pretending that it is the genuine one, 
 and that I delivered it to them for the purpose of selling it for my account. 
 
 The only certain way to get in Cologne my genuine article is to buy it personally at my 
 house, opposite the Julich’s Placet forming the corner of the two streets, Unter Goldschmidt 
 and Oben Marspforten, No. 23, and having in the front six balconies, of which the three 
 bear my name and firm, Johann Maria Farina, Gegeniiber dem Julich’s Platz. 
 
 The excellence of my manufacture has been put beyond all doubt by the fact that the 
 Jurors of the Great Exhibitions in London, 1851 and 1862,. awarded to me the Prize Medal ; 
 that I obtained honourable mention at the Great Exhibition in Paris, 1855; and received 
 the only Prize Medal awarded to Eau de Cologne at the Paris Exhibition of 1867, and in 
 Oporto 1865. 
 
 Cologne, January, 1869. JOHANN MARIA FARINA, 
 
 GEGENUBER DEM JULICH’S PLATZ. 
 
 *** My Agency in London is at Messrs. J. & R. M‘Cracken, 38, Queen 
 Street , Cannon Street , E.C, 
 
22 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 CONSTANCE. 
 
 HOTEL DU BROCHET (HECHT HOTEL). 
 
 First-class Establisement, situated opposite the Harbour and the Lake. 
 Excellent Pension . Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock, Spacious house, 
 very clean, quiet, and well furnished. The Proprietor has the sole right 
 of fishing in the Rhine. Boats and all appliances for Fishing. Prices 
 very moderate. French and English Papers. 
 
 'CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 JAMES MISSIRIE, Proprietor. 
 
 THUS long-established and well-known Hotel, situated in 
 A the GRAND RUE DE PERA, commanding a magnificent view of 
 the UNRIVALLED BOSPHORUS, is replete with every comfort and 
 convenience for the Accommodation of Families and Tourists. 
 
 A Select Table B’Hote. 
 
 In consequence of the largely increasing number of Visitors to the 
 OTTOMAN CAPITAL, from the facility with which it can now be 
 reached from all parts of Europe, and Passengers who select this agreeable 
 Route to and from INDIA and the EAST, it is requested that Families 
 desirous of securing Rooms telegraph or write in anticipation. Every 
 attention will be paid to instructions thus transmitted. 
 
 CAREFULLY SELECTED INTERPRETERS FOR ALL 
 LANGUAGES. 
 
 The Attendants and Boats of the Hotel await the arrival of the Steamers. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 At CONSTANTINOPLE, No. 12, Rue Dervish (near La Grande Rue de Pera) ; 
 And also, from and after 1st May, 1873, 
 
 At BOUJUKDERI2, on the Bosphorus, Summer Residence of the Corps Diplo- 
 matique and of fashionable Society (Stone Buildings). 
 
 B EAUTIFUL Situation, with Panoramic Views of the 
 
 Asiatic and European Shores. Frequent and regular daily communications 
 with the Capital, by Steamers and by Land. Forty spacious and elegantly furnished. 
 Apartments. Table d’Hote and Dinners a la Carte. French and Italian Cooks. 
 Service and attendance under the personal supervision of the Proprietress, Mme. 
 Alberti. — Foreign Newspapers, Interpreters, and special attention to receipt dad 
 despatch of letters. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 i 3 
 
 DIEPPE. 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL, 
 
 PACING THE BEACH, 
 
 Close to the Bathing Establishment and the Parade. 
 
 f ' (this hotel is open all the year.) 
 
 IT IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANTLY SITUATED HOTELS 
 i IN DIEPPE, commanding a beautiful and extensive Yiew of the 
 ! Sea. 
 
 Families and Gentlemen visiting Dieppe will find at this Establish- 
 ment elegant Large and Small Apartments, and the best of accommo- 
 dation, at very reasonable prices. Large Reading-room, with French 
 and English Newspapers. 
 
 The Refreshments, &c., are of the best quality. 
 
 In fact, this Hotel fully bears out and deserves the favourable opinion 
 expressed of it in Murray’s and other Guide Books. 
 
 Table (VHote and Private Dinners . 
 
 DIJON. 
 
 HOTEL DU JURA. 
 
 Mr. DAVID, Proprietor. 
 
 mHIS Hotel, which has been considerably enlarged, is a 
 X first- class house, and the nearest to the Railway Station. 
 Contains five Salons, sixty Bed-rooms en suite for Families, 
 Drawing-room, Smoking-room, Table-d’hote ; Private Service. 
 Carriages for Drives; Omnibus to all the trains. French, 
 English, and German Papers. English and German spoken. 
 Bureau de Change in the Hotel, where English Bank Notes 
 can be exchanged. A first-rate cellar of the finest Burgundy 
 Wines. 
 
 There is a Church of England Service in the Hotel. 
 Visitors taken en pension at reduced Prices from the 18 th 
 November to 15 th May. 
 
24 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE, DRESDEN. 
 
 Kept by Mr. EMIL KAYSER. 
 
 rpHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the banks of the Elbe, between the 
 two beautiful bridges, facing the Theatre, Museum, and Catholic Cathedral, 
 adjoining the Briihl’s Terrace, and opposite the Royal Palace and Green Vaults, 
 contains One Hundred Front Rooms. These apartments combine elegance and 
 comfort, and most of them fronting either the Theatre Square, or public walks 
 and gardens of the Hotel, and command fine views of the River, Bridges, and 
 distant Mountains. The Gardens of the Hotel afford its guests an agreeable and 
 private Promenade. Table d’Hote at one and five o’clock. Private Dinners at any 
 hour. To families or single persons desirous of taking apartments for the winter, 
 very advantageous arrangements will be offered, and every effort made to render 
 their residence in the Hotel pleasant and comfortable. Carriages, Baths, Riding. 
 Billiard and Smoking Rooms. Ladies’ Parlour. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 VICTORIA HOTEL. 
 
 rjpHIS fine large Establishment, situated on the public 
 Promenade of the English and American quarter, in the immediate vicinity 
 of all the curiosities, contains One Hundred Rooms. Table d’Hote at One and 
 Five o’clock. 
 
 The Garden of the Hotel affords its guests an agreeable Promenade t 
 CARRIAGES. 
 
 READING ROOM WITH ENGLISH AND AMERICAN PAPERS. 
 
 To Families or Single Persons desirous of taking Apart- 
 ments for the Winter, advantageous arrangements will be 
 offered. 
 
 Proprietor and Manager of the Hotel , 
 
 CARL WEISS i 1 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 25 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL GOLDNER ENGEL. 
 
 rjHHlS first-class Hotel, kept "by Jos. Henkion, is situated 
 ^ in the c'entre of the Curiosities, close to the Royal Palace 
 and Museums. 
 
 Splendid hot and cold Baths are to be had in the Hotel. 
 English and French Newspapers. 
 
 A reduction of price in the Winter to families who remain 
 for some period. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 
 
 §5 j Special ^pjromtmcnt to % ^ritux of Hales, 
 
 aat> f|. §}. t!je Jiijjti&ifrf of %gpt. 
 
 DAVID ROBERTSON & CO., 
 
 English Booksellers, Stationers, Photograph Vendors, 
 and General Commission Agents, 
 
 10, Grand Square, Alexandria, and The Ezbekieh, Cairo. 
 
 A Register of English and American Travellers is kept at the above 
 ^ Establishment . A very extensive Stock of Photographs of Egypt and Syria 
 | kept on hand ; and Visitors will receive any assistance or information they 
 i may require. 
 
 English and Indian Newspapers by every Mail. 
 
 TAUCHNITZ EDITIONS. 
 
 Passages secured. Baggage collected and forwarded. Letters received and posted 
 
 to all countries. 
 
 DAVID ROBERTSON AND CO, 
 
 ALEXANDRIA AND CAIRO. 
 
 EGYPT AND INDIA. 
 
 With Map, Post 8vo., 15s. 
 
 HANDBOOK FOE EGYPT, THE COURSE of the NILE, 
 
 through Egypt and Nubia, Alexandria, Cairo, the Pyramids and 
 fhebes, the Suez Canal, the Peninsula of Sinai, the Oases, the Fyoom, &c. 
 
 II. 
 
 HANDBOOK FOE INDIA, — Bombay and Madras. With 
 H- Map. 2 vols. Post 8vo. 12s. each. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
26 
 
 MDRRAf’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Mdy f 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 W. H. RALPH & CO., 
 
 Wine, Spirit, and Provision Merchants, 
 and Forwarding Agents, 
 
 8a, GEORGE STREET, MINORIES, E.C., LONDON. 
 
 AND 
 
 s EZBEKIAH GARDENS, CAIRO. 
 
 Parties proceeding to Upper Egypt and Syria will obtain every 
 information respecting the Country. 
 
 First-class Provisions supplied at moderate prices . 
 
 THE EAST. 
 
 With Maps, 2 vols., Post 8vo., 24s. 
 
 TTANDBOOK for the HOLY LAND, SYRIA, PALESTINE 
 
 Sinai, Edom and the Syrian Deserts. 
 
 TTANDBOOK for TURKEY in ASIA, CONSTANTINOPLE 
 
 the Bosphorus, Dardanelles, Brousa, Plain of Troy, Crete, Cyprus 
 Smyrna, Ephesus, the Seven Churches, Coasts of the Black Sea, Armenia 
 Mesopotamia, &c. Maps and Plans. Post 8vo. 15s. 
 
 III. 
 
 TTANDBOOK EOR GREECE, THE IONIAN ISLANDS 
 
 Continental Greece, Athens, the Peloponnesus, the Islands of tin 
 HCgaean Sea, Albania, Thessaly, and Macedonia. Maps. Post Svo. 15s. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 ENGELBERG (near Lucerne, Switzerland). 
 
 HOTEL AND PENSION DU TITLIS. 
 
 CATTANI, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS New Hotel is fitted out with every comfort; contain 
 
 ing Eighty Beds, Ladies’ Sitting-room, Beading, Billiard, and Smoking Rooms. Englis’ 
 French, and German Newspapers. English Service every Sunday. The best Starting-pla j j 
 for ascending Mont Titlis (18 miles) ; good Guides ; tariff, 10 frs., the same as at Engstle [ 
 (See Berlepsch). Very nice Excursions on the Glaciers of Ure-Rothstock, Schlossberg, ai 
 Grossen. 
 
 HOTEL and PEW8IOW I>E E* ANGLE, belonging to the san 
 Proprietor. Excellent Hotel ; clean and well-furnished Rooms at moderate prices. War 
 and Cold Baths. 
 
MURRA Y’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 27 
 
 1873 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 ABERDEEN (SCOTLAND,. 
 
 POLISHED GRANITE MONUMENTS, 
 
 FROM £5. 
 
 Letter Cutting Accurate and Beautiful. 
 
 Best Quality Granite and M arble Work of all kinds. 
 
 Iron Railings and Tomb Furnishings fitted 
 complete. 
 
 Plans, Prices, and Carriage -free Terms to all parts 
 of the World, from 
 
 LEGGE, SCULPTOR, 
 
 BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 
 
 THE 
 
 GREAT WESTERN HOTEL 
 
 j (SNOW-HILL STATION), 
 
 BIRMINGHAM. 
 
 “ One of the most elegant, comfortable, and 
 economical Hotels in the three kingdoms.” — 
 The Field , July 31, 1869. 
 
 
 BRISTOL. 
 
 ROYAL HOTEL, COLLEGE GREEN. 
 
 THIRST -CLASS. Central, and pleasantly situated. Very 
 
 spacious Coffee, Dining, Reading, Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Private 
 Apartments en suite . One Hundred and Twenty Bed-rooms. Steam Lift and 
 Laundry. Hot and Cold Baths. Telegraph Office and Post-office in the Hotel. 
 Fixed Charges. All Omnibuses pass the door. Night Porter kepL 
 
 W. SWANSQ2T, Manager. 
 
 c 2 
 
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 28 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 May, 
 
 KILLARNEY (IRELAND). 
 
 THE RAILWAY HOTEL. 
 
 P. CUKRY, 
 
 Late Travellers’ Club, London , and Kildare Street Club , Dublin. 
 
 THE CONTINENTAL LANGUAGES SPOKEN BY THE MANAGER. 
 
 T HIS magnificent Establishment, admitted to be one of 
 the finest in Europe, possesses everything requisite to 
 promote the comfort and convenience of Tourists. It contains 
 one hundred Bed-rooms, a noble Coffee-room, a Drawing-room 
 for ladies and families, and several elegant and handsomely- 
 furnished Sitting-rooms, Billiard and Smoking-rooms, Baths. 
 &c., &c., and is surrounded by an extensive and well-kept 
 Flower Garden. The charges will be found moderate. 
 
 The porters of the Hotel await the arrival of each train foi 
 the removal of Luggage, Ac. 
 
 Table d’Hote at half-past 6 o’clock. All attendance charged 
 A Boom is established for the convenience of Commercia 
 gentlemen. 
 
 LANCASTER. 
 
 (HALF-WAY BETWEEN LONDON AND SCOTLAND.) 
 
 Parties holding Tourist Tickets to and from the Lake District or Scotlam 
 may break their journey at Lancaster both going and returning. 
 
 KING’S ARMS AND ROYAL HOTEL, 
 
 I And general Posting Establishment for Families , Commercial Gentlemen 
 
 and Tourists. 
 
 The House is teeming with a large Collection of Ancient Works of Art 
 including Gobelin Tapestry (inferior to none in the United Kingdom; 
 elaborately carved Oak Bedsteads, Tables, Chairs, Cabinets* Portraits 
 China, etc., which have elicited the admiration of all visitors, includin 
 H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, their Imperial Highnesses the Emperor an 
 Empress of Brazil and suite, and many other Royal Personages, and th 
 late Mr. Charles Dickens, who stated that in all his travels he had neve 
 met with such a remarkable house and interesting collection. 
 
 (See “ The Lazy Tour of Two Idle Apprentices,” in Household Words, l 
 the late Mr. Charles Dickens.) 
 
 Visitors will find this old-established House equally as economic i 
 minor establishments, with the certainty of comfort and attention; 
 
 An Omnibus from the Hotel meets the trains. 
 
 JOSEPH SLY, Proprietor, j 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 29 
 
 ENGLAND. 
 
 LYNTON (NORTH DEVON). 
 
 THE VALLEY OF ROOKS HOTEL. 
 
 mmS favourite and beautifully situate Hotel, which has lately had 
 JL extensive alterations, additions, and improvements, combines with moderate charges all 
 necessary means for the accommodation and comfort of Families and Tourists. The splendid 
 Table d’Hote and Coffee Room, Reading Rooms, Ladies’ Drawing Room, and several Private 
 Sitting Rooms, range in a long front overlooking the sea, and looking into the extensive 
 private grounds of the Hotel. Here the visitor commands uninterrupted views of the 
 Bristol Channel, the Tors, and the Valleys of the East and West Lynns, and the coast of South 
 Wales, &c, The Hotel is also most conveniently situate as a centre for visiting all the 
 places of interest in the district. Post Horses and Carriages. Coaches during the Season to 
 Ilfracombe, Barnstaple, and the West Somerset Railway. 
 
 JOHN CROOK, Proprietor. 
 
 PENZANCE (CORNWALL). 
 
 MOUNT’S BAY HOUSE, 
 
 ESPLANADE, PENZANCE, CORNWALL, 
 
 Has been erected and fitted up expressly as a 
 
 FAMILY HOTEL /sUPEEIOR LODGING-HOUSE. 
 
 N O expense or labour has been spared by the Proprietor. 
 
 The house is furnished in the most modern style, is well supplied with Hot 
 and Cold Baths , and replete with every accommodation suitable for Tourists to 
 West Cornwall. 
 
 All the Drawing Rooms command an uninterrupted and unsurpassed view of that 
 * Beauteous gem set in the silver sea,* 
 
 St. Michael's Mount, and the whole of the magnificent Bay. 
 
 Invalids will find in Mount's Bay House the comforts of a home, while the 
 beauty and salubrity of the situation, and its nearness to the charming walks on 
 the sea-shore, render it a healthy and delightful residence. 
 
 Suites of apartments for families of distinction. 
 
 Choice Wines and Ales. Post Horses and Carriages. Charges moderate. 
 
 E. LAVIN, Proprietor. 
 
 PLYMOUTH, &c. 
 
 With Map. Post 8vo. 12s. 
 
 HANDBOOK FOR DEVON AND CORNWALL— 
 
 EXETER, ILFRACOMBE, LYNTON, SIDxMOUTH, DAWLISH, TEIGNMOUTH, 
 PLYMOUTH, DEVONPORT, TORQUAY, LAUNCESTON, PENZANCE, 
 FALMOUTH, THE LIZARD, LAND’S END, &c. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
32 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 HOTEL PORTA R O S S A. 
 
 Mr. BASSETTI, Proprietor, who speaks English. 
 
 T HE best and largest of the Hotels in the centre of the City, with first-rate Restaurant. 
 
 Highly recommended to Bachelors and Families who wish to unite economy with good 
 treatment. Table-d’Hote at fr. 3. 50. Good Rooms from 2 fr. Reading-room with Piano. 
 Omnibus at all Trains. Mrs. BASSETTI is an Englishwoman. 
 
 r FLORENCE. 
 
 MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, 
 
 ARTISTS, 
 
 No. 8, VIA ROM AN A, 
 
 Opposite the Ifuseum of Natural History ( Specola ), and near the Pitti Gallery. 
 
 Messrs. Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original 
 Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. 
 
 N.B. — English spoken. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
 Caunon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LA VILLE, 
 
 LUNG’ ARNO NTT0V0 AND PIAZZA MANIN. 
 (Southern Aspect.) 
 
 Patronised by their Majesties the Kings of Prussia and Denmark. 
 
 120 lofty and airy Bed-rooms; Sitting-rooms; Reading-room, with a good 
 choice of European Papers. Splendid Dining-room and Table dTIutc. 
 Smoking Saloon. Baths in the Hotel. Fixed and moderate prices. 
 Omnibus at every train. All languages spoken. 
 
 D. LODOMEZ, Proprietor. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 P. HO MAN ELLI, 
 
 Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Burtolinl, hua opened a Gallery, 
 
 Lung’ Amo Guicciardini, No. 7- 
 
 The Intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, 
 artistically executed. 
 
 Principal Works.— The Son of William Tell; the Young Franklin; the Young 
 yYashington ; the Young Whittington; tho Young Napoleon ‘ r the Young Moees ; Garibaldi. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 33 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Messrs. Anthony Sasso & Son, Artists, 
 
 4, YIA DI BOEGO OGNISSANTI, 
 
 Distinguished with Medals at the Italian Exhibition of 1861, keep the most beautiful and 
 rich Private Gallery in the City of Ancient and Modern Original Pictures, copies of the most 
 celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful ancient 
 carved cabinets, fee. 
 
 ENGLISH SPOKEN. 
 
 Agents and Correspondents in England and America : — 
 
 Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, London, E C. 
 
 Messrs. DUNCAN, SHIRM AN & CO., and Messrs. AO STIN, BALDWIN & CO., New York. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 BRIZZI AND NICCOLAI’S 
 
 Musical Establishment. 
 
 PIANPPORTES, OF THE BEST MAKERS, 
 
 FOR SALE AND ON PURE. 
 
 GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 
 
 Italian and Foreign Music. 
 
 fiusicaV Lending ttyrary. 
 
 PIAZZA MADONNA, I BRANCH ROUSE (Music Depot) 
 
 PALAZZO ALDOBRANt)INI. j 4 • ' 1 3 / YA c fhreTaNi; 
 
 FLORENCE- 
 
 PJ G. BIA^Qppff, 
 
 MANppApTUKER OF TABLES ARD LADIER’ 
 
 OF FLORENTINE MOSIA.C, 
 
 LUNG’ ARNO NUOyp, 1, AND BORG’ OGNISSANTI, £, 
 
 YNVITES the English Mobility and Gentry fo visit his Establishment, where 
 may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful 
 Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones. Orders for Tables 
 and other Ornaments executed to any Design. 
 
 T. BlANCHiNifs Correspondents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 
 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 MR. C. A. LOHR, 
 
 PROPRIETOR OP THE ROMAN EMPEROR HOTEL, 
 
 Begs to recommend his House to English Travellers. 
 
 T HIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate 
 superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, 
 and a new splendid Dining-room. 
 
 The “ Roman Emperor” is often honoured by Royal Families and other high 
 personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel— 
 
 H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WDRTEMBERG. 
 
 H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. 
 
 H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. &c. &c. fee. 
 
 Table-d’h6te at 1, IH. 30kr, Breakfast, ‘SbZJcr. 
 
 „ 5, Tea, £?.kr. 
 
 Bed Rooms, from 1H. to 3£l. 
 
 •*’''** * 0 3 
 
32 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 II OTEL P O li T A II O S5 K A. 
 
 Mr. BASSBTTI, Proprietor, who speaks English. 
 
 T HE best and largest of the Hotels in the centre of the Cily, with first-rate Restaurant, 
 Highly recommended to Bachelors and Families who wish to unite economy with good 
 treatment. Table-d’Hote at fr. 3. 50. Good Rooms from 2 fr. Reading-room with Piano. 
 Omnibus at all Trains. Mrs. BASSETTI is Englishwoman. 
 
 r FLORENCE. 
 
 MESSRS. COSTA & CONTI, 
 
 ARTISTS, 
 
 No. 8, VIA ROM AN A, 
 
 Opposite the Museum of Natural History (Specola), and near the Pitti Gallery. 
 
 Messrs. Costa and Conti keep the largest collection in Florence of original 
 Ancient and Modern Pictures, as well as Copies of all the most celebrated Masters. 
 
 N.B. — English spoken. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs, J. and R. M‘CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E S C., London. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LAVILLE, 
 
 LUNG’ ARNO NTJOVO AND PIAZZA MANIN. 
 (Southern Aspect.) 
 
 Patronised by their Majesties the Kings of Prussia and Denmark. 
 
 120 lofty and airy Bed-rooms ; Sitting-rooms ; Reading-room, with a good 
 choice of European Papers. Splendid Dining-room and Table d’Hote. 
 Smoking Saloon. Baths in the Hotel. Fixed and moderate prices. 
 Omnibus at every train. All languages spoken. 
 
 D. LODOMEZ, Proprietor. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 P. ROMANELLI, 
 
 Sculptor, Pupil of, and Successor to, the late Professor Bartolini, has opened a Gallery, 
 
 Lung’ Amo Guicciardini, No. r J. 
 
 The intelligent amateur will find there a Collection of Statues, both originals and copies, 
 artistically executed. 
 
 Principal Works— The Son of William Tell; the Young Franklin; the Young 
 Washington ; the Young Whittington ; the Young Napoleon y the Young Moses; Garibaldi. 
 
187,3. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 33 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 Messrs. Anthony Basso & Son, Artists, 
 
 4, YIA DI BORGQ OGNISSANTI, 
 
 Distinguished with Medals at the Italian Exhibition of 1861, keep the most beautiful and 
 rich Private Gallery jn the City of Ancient and Modern Original Pictures, copies of the most 
 celebrated pictures in the Public Galleries, water-colour paintings, and beautiful aucieiit 
 carved cabinets, $cc. »■ ■■ ■ ’ 
 
 ENGLISH" SPOKEN. 
 
 Agents and Correspondents in England and America:— 
 
 Messrs. J. & R. McCR^CKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, London, E.C. 
 
 Messrs. DUNCAN, SHlIlMAN & CO., and Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN & CO., New York. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 BRIZZI AND NIOOQLAI’S 
 
 Musical E S'ta'blisliiixeii't. 
 
 EIA^pPGRTES, Op THE 3MA|f:ER^, 
 
 FOR SALE AND ON HIKE. 
 
 GENERAL DEPOT FOR WIND-INSTRUMENTS. 
 
 Italian and Foreign Music. 
 
 ^’Musicat Lending iMrory. 
 
 PIAZZA MADONNA, ' { BRANCH HOUSE (Music Depot) 
 
 PALAZZO ALIX)BRANHiNL j ^ 
 
 Pt©R§N§i: 
 
 mmmm m &, w a¥§hiii ? 
 
 MAN.pj'ApTpRER OS' TABLES ARP LADIER’ 
 
 OF FLORENTINE MOSIAC, 
 
 LUNG’ ARNO NUOfft, 1, AND BORG’ OGNI^ANfl, % 
 
 TNVTTES the English ^pBility and Gentry fo yisi^b his Establishment, where 
 may always be seen numerous specimens of this celebrated and beautiful 
 Manufacture, in every description of Rare and Precious Stones, Orders for Tables 
 and other Ornaments executed to any Design. 
 
 T. BiANCiUNifs Correspondents in England are Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 
 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 FRANKFORT O. M. 
 
 MR. C. A. LOIR, 
 
 ROTEE, 
 
 PROPRIETOR OP TEE ROMAN EN 
 
 __ Begs to recommend his House to English' 1 
 
 fF HIS large and well-situated Establishment is conducted under the immediate 
 A superintendence of the Proprietor, and newly furnished with every comfort, 
 and anew splendid Dining-room. 
 
 The “ Rom AN PmperOr” is often honoured by Royal Families and other high 
 personages. The following have lately honoured this Hotel— 
 
 H.M. THE KING AND QUEEN OF WURTEMBERG. 
 
 H.M. THE QUEEN OF HOLLAND. 
 
 H.I.H. THE ARCHDUKE OF AUSTRIA. & c. &c. &c. 
 
 Tahle-d’h6te at 1, 3Lfl. 30kr, Breakfast, kr. 
 
 „ 5, 2fl. Tea, Itr-. 
 
 Bed Rooms, from 1H. to 3H. 
 
 C 3 
 
34 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 May 
 
 FRANKFORT. O. M. 
 
 FRIEDRICH BOHLER, 
 
 ZEIL, No. 5 4, 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO THE POST OFFICE. 
 
 PRIZE MEDAL. LONDON. 1862. 
 
 SETOSE 
 
 CARVED STAGHORN AND IVORY ORNAMENTS, 
 
 CARVED WOOD WORK (Vieuxchene) Furniture & Fancy Objects, 
 
 flocks, ^ronjcs, Cljina, ^frnicg Articles of rkerg ^Inscription. 
 
 SPECIALITIES OF GERMAN ARTICLES. 
 
 Vienna Bronzes, Marquetry, Leather and Meerschaum Goods, Travelling 
 Articles, Toilette Requisites, etc., etc. 
 
 SUPERIOR COPIES'OF THE ARIADNE BY DANNICKER. 
 
 Genuine Eau de Cologne of Jean Marie Farina , opposite the JulichsjJatz, 
 
 FIXED FKICES. 
 
 The Agents in London are Messrs. J. and R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, ^ 
 
 Cannon Street Writ. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 35 
 
 FRANKFORT. 
 
 P. A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOR, 
 
 ZEII, Ko. 44, 
 
 BOHEMIAN FANCY GLASS ANB CRYSTAL 
 WAMFHOUSEo 
 
 P* A. TACCHI’S SUCCESSOR, Manufacturer of Bohemian 
 Glass, begs to acquaint the Public that he has always an extensive 
 Assortment in the Newest and most Elegant Designs of 
 
 ORNAMENTAL CUT, ENGRAVED, GILT, & PAINTED GLASS, 
 
 BOTH WHITE AND COLOURED, 
 
 In Dessert Services, Chandeliers, Candelabras, Articles for the Table 
 and Toilet, and every possible variety of objects in this beautiful 
 branch of manufacture. He solicits, and will endeavour to merit, a 
 continuance of the favours of the Public, which he has enjoyed in 
 so high a degree during a considerable number of years. 
 
 P. A. Tacchi’s Successor has a Branch Establishment during the 
 Summer Season at 
 
 WIESBADEN, in the Old Colonnade, No. 1, 
 
 OPPOSITE THE THEATRE , 
 
 Where will always be found an extensive Selection of the newest 
 Articles from his Frankfort Establishment. 
 
 Visitors to Frankfort should not fail to pay a visit to the Show 
 Rooms of Mr. P. A. Tacchi’s Successor. 
 
 His Correspondent in England, to whom he undertakes to forward 
 Purchases made of him, is Mr. LOUIS HENLE, 3, Budge 
 Row, Cannon Street, London, E.C, 
 
se MURPAFS PA^DPPQJC ADVKRTISpp. May, 
 
 FREIBURG in Bresgau, Duchy of Baden. 
 
 HOTEL SOMMER, Zahringer Hof. 
 
 Newly built, opposite the Station ; finest view of the Black Forest and the Vosges ; 
 most comfortable and best house there. Baths in the Hotel. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. G. H. SOMMER. ‘ 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 ROYAL INTERNATIONAL PHARMACY. 
 
 F^ARLO BRUZZA, Piazza Noova. General Depository for Italy of the 
 specially accredited Medicines of the worfdl ' English, French, and Italian Articles, 
 Mineral Waters, Perfumeries, Pomades, Essences, &c. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 HORACE AUGUSTE MOSSA, 
 
 JB-WEILBK, 
 
 AND 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF GOLD AND SILVER FILAGREE WORK, 
 
 Which obtained P BIZ ft MED^L at the Universal Exhibition 
 of London in 1851. 
 
 His Establishments are situate^ in the Grande Albqrgo d’ltalia, 
 in Via del Campo, near the Porta di Yacca ; he also keeps a Depository 
 in the Grande Albergo di Genova. He undertakes the execution of 
 all Commissions with exactitude, apd guarantees big Works to be 
 of pure Gold and Silver, and Silver doubly gilt. Travellers are 
 invited to visit his Establishments without obligation to purchase. 
 
 Correspondents in England —Messrs. J. & R. McCRACKEN, 
 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 COMPANION TO THE HANDBOOKS. 
 
 Post 8vo., 6s. 
 
 THE CICERONE; or, Art Guide to Painting in Italy*. For 
 
 A the use of Travellers. By Dr. Jacob Burckhardt. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 37 
 
 it. RUBATTINcT & CO.’S 
 
 ITALIAN MAIL ST B A M E It S. 
 
 Regular Monthly Departures for the 
 IND I A N 'LINE 
 
 ( Via SUEZ CANAL.) 
 
 From G-enoa to Bombay on the 24th | From Bombay to Genoa on the 1st 
 and from 3STaples on the 27th | and from Aden on the 8th 
 
 of each Month. 
 
 MEDITERRANEAN LINES. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA (Egypt) to ITALY. 
 
 Alexandria to Genoa every 7, 17, 27 at 2 p.m. 
 
 (Calling at Messina, Naples', & Leghorn.) 
 From Naples to Genoa every 2, 12, 22 at 2 p.iT. 
 Arrival at Genoa 4, 14,” 24. 
 
 Genoa to Alexandria every 5, 15, 25 at 7 p m. 
 
 (Calling at Leghorn. Naples, k Messina.) 
 prom Naples to Alexandria 8, 18, 28 at 2 P.M. 
 A rrival at Alexandria 3, 13, 23. 
 
 From Genoa every Thursday . , 
 ,, Leghorn every Friday .. 
 „ Cagliari every Sunday . 
 Arrival at Tunis every Monday 
 
 GENOA to TUNIS. 
 
 , .. at 9 p.m. From Tunis every Wednesday . . .. at noon. 
 
 , .. at 11 „ „ Cagliari every Thursday. . .. at 6 pm. 
 
 , .. at 8 ,, ,, Leghorn every Saturday . . . . dt 11 „ 
 
 . . at noon. Arrival at Genoa every Sunday . . at 6 a.m, 
 
 GENOA to CAGLIARI. 
 
 From Genoa every Monday k Thurs. at 6 r.M. 
 
 „ Leghorn every Tues. & Friday at 11 „ 
 Air. at Cagliari every Thurs. & Sun. morn. 
 
 From Cagliari every Mon. k Thurs. at 6 p.m. 
 
 „ Leghorn every Wed. Sat. . . at 11 „ 
 Arr. at Genoa every Thurs. & Sun. . . at 6 a.m 
 
 NAPLES to CAGLIARI. 
 
 From Naples every Saturday . 1 . . at 2 p.m. I From Cagliari every Thursday . . . . at 2 p.m. 
 Arr. at Cagliari every Sunday . . . . at 7 „ j Arr. at Naples every Friday . . . . evening. 
 
 GENOA to PORTOTORRES. 
 
 From Genoa every Wednesday . . .. at 9 p.ir. | From Portotorres every Sunday .. at noon. 
 
 „ Leghorn every Thursday. . ..at 3 ,, „ Leghorn every Monday . . .. at 11 a.m 
 
 Arr. at Portotorres every Friday . . at boon. | Arr. at Genoa every Tuesday . . .. morning. 
 
 GENOA, BASTIA, MADALENA & PORTOTORRES 
 
 From Genoa to Leghorn every Sat. at 9 p.m. 
 „ Leghorn to Bastia every Sun. at 8 a.m. 
 „ Bastia to Madalena every Sun. at B p.m. 
 „ Madalena to Portot. every Mon. at 6 A.m. 
 Arr. at Portotdires every Mon. . . . . at 6 p.m. 
 
 From Portot. to Madal. every Wed. at 8 a.m. 
 „ Madalina to Bastia every Wed. at 5 p.m. 
 „ Bastia to Leghorn every Thurs. at 6 a.m, 
 „ Leghorn to Genoa every Thurs. at 11 p.m. 
 Air. at Genoa every Friddy . . .... morning 
 
 CIVITAVECCHIA to MADALENA & PORTOTORRES- 
 
 From Civitav. to Madal. every Wed. a), 3 p.m. 1 ^mnPortot. to Madal. every Friday at 10 a.m, 
 „ Madal. to Portot. every Thurs. at J a.m. ‘ ,, * Madal. to Civitav. every Fri. at 8 p.m. 
 Arr. at Portotorres every Thursday at 3 p.m. j Arr. at Civitavecchia every Sat. . . at 11 a.m. 
 
 LEGHORN to the ISLAND OF ELBE. 
 
 JSun. at J.0 a.m, 
 
 From Legh. to Portof. every \ Wed. at 
 Arr. at Portof. every Sun. & YVeB. at 
 
 CMcn. at 8 a.m. 
 
 8 From Portof. to Legh. every \ Fri. . . at 8 a.m. 
 
 4 p.m. Arr. at Leghorn every Mon. & Fri. evening. 
 
 PIOMBINO to PORTOFERRAIO- 
 
 From Rombino every day 
 
 at 3 p.m. | From Portoferraio every day 
 
 at 8 a.m. 
 
 For Freight, Passage, and Particulars, apply at Bombay, to VOLKART BROTHERS: at 
 Alexandria, to BARKER k CO. ; at Marseilles," 'to'"'CTT. • LAFQKET k CO.; at London, to 
 A. LAMING k CO., S., Leadenhall Street, and in other ports to the Company’s Agencies. 
 
 BTOAT T3OTO CO. .(OJESJffOA). 
 
38 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 GRENOBLE. 
 
 HOTEL MONNET, 
 
 M. TRILLAT, Proprietor 
 
 {Son-in- Law and Successor to AT. ATonnet). 
 
 T HIS Hotel is situated in the PLACE GRENETTE, 14; it offers excellent ac- 
 commodation, and will be found deserving the patronage of English Families and 
 Single Gentlemen. Post Horses and Coaches for Aix-les-Bains, Allevard, Ariage la Motte- 
 les- Bains, la Salette, &c. 
 
 Omnibuses belonging to the Hotel at the Station. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, 
 
 'J'HIS new, magnificent, first-rate Establishment, sur- 
 rounded by private and public gardens, with a view of 
 the Castle, and in the very best situation in Heidelberg, 
 enjoys an European reputation. 
 
 READING ROOM, 
 
 'Wii Ii English and. American Papers. 
 
 Reduced prices for protracted stay, and for 
 the Winter Season. 
 
 H^EjFELI-GUJEB, Proprietor. 
 
 No Omnibus required, being but 400 ft. from the Station. 
 
 GERMANY. 
 
 With 50 Woodcuts. 12mo. 35. 6d 
 
 A HISTORY OF GERMANY, 
 
 FROM THE INVASION OF THE KINGDOM BY THE ROMANS 
 UNDER MARIUS DOWN TO 1867. 
 
 On the Plan of Mrs. Markham’s Histories. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 39 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE AUSSIE. 
 
 ■gEATJTIFDLLY situated on the Promenade, with a fine 
 view of the old castle. Reading Room, with Times and 
 Galignani. A very nice Garden, and all sorts of Baths attached 
 to the House. Close to the English Church. Five minutes 
 from the Swimming Baths. Pension, six and seven francs 
 a day. 
 
 Hotel Omnibus at the Station . 
 
 Proprietor, WILH. WETTSTEIN. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 MULLER’S HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 ICIEST CLASS. One of the best in Heidelberg. Splendidly 
 situated near the Station and the Promenade. Large and Small 
 Apartments most comfortably furnished and entirely carpeted. Fine 
 Kitchen and choice Wines. 
 
 AUG. MULLER, Proprietor. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 H OTEL ADLER, in the Grand Place, opposite and nearest the Castle. 
 Deservedly recommended for its excellent situation, comfort, and 
 
 moderate charges. 
 
 Mr. LEHR, Proprietor. 
 
40 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 HOMBURG- 
 
 H OMBOURG.— ROYAL VICTORIA HOTEL. — First-rate for Families and Single 
 Gentlemen, close to the Springs and the Kursaal ; it is one of the best situated Hotels 
 in the town. A splendid Dining-room, and two suites of airy and quiet apartments (with 
 balconies), overlooking the fine Taunus Mountains, have been newly added to the Hotel. It 
 has been patronised by His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, and several other Royal 
 personages. The Proprietor, who has been tor years in first-class hotels in London, offers 
 visitors the advantages of good and comfortable accommodation. All the attendants speak 
 English. Best French and English cooking. P^xcellent Wines. Moderate charges. Good 
 fishing, hare and partridge shooting free. GUSTAVE WEIGAND, Proprietor. 
 
 HOMBURG- 
 
 H OTEL DES QUATRE SAISONS.— Mr. SCHLOTTERBECK, Proprietor.— 
 f This Hotel is of the first class, and enjoys a well-merited reputation. It is situated 
 near the Springs and the Cursaal. Excellent Table d’Hote and' Wines ; the Proprietor is a 
 large dealer in Wines; and endeavours to make the stuy of his patrons as comfortable and 
 pleasant as possible, 
 
 INNSBRUCK. 
 
 TJOTEL GOLDEN SUN. — M. Horandtner, Proprietor. — 
 
 This first-class Hotel, situated in the finest part of the town, and only four minutes* 
 walk from the Raiivvay Station, enjoys a high reputation for being honoured with the 
 patronage of travellers of alt nations. The greatest care is given to the attendance. Large 
 and small well-furnished Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen. English spoken. 
 
 INNSBRUCK. 
 
 TJOTEL pE L’EUROPE, kept by Mr. SCHEINER.— A nevyand well-furnished 
 II Hotel, conveniently situated, just facing the splendid valley of the Inn, opposite the 
 Railway Station. Excellent Table d’HSte and private dinners. Arrangements made at 
 very reasonable prices. Well-furnished Apartments. English Newspapers taken in. 
 Splendid situation, commanding a fine view of the mountains. English spoken. 
 
 INTERLAGKEN. 
 
 J. GROSSMANN, 
 
 SCULPTOR IN WOOD, AND MANUFACTURER OF SWISS 
 WOOD MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 
 
 Carved and Inlaid Furniture manufactured to any Design , 
 
 at xnarTERXtACKBasr. 
 
 TJ IS WAREHOUSE is situated between the Belvedere Hotel and Schweizerhof, 
 I f where he keeps the largest and best assortment of the above objects to be • 
 found in Switzerland. He undertakes to forward Goods fo Epgland and elsewhere. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. McCracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon street, E.C., London.. 
 
1873 . 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 41 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 GRAND MOTEL DES ALPES. 
 
 OPPOSITE THE JUNGFRAU GLACIER. 
 
 250 Beds. 
 
 REDUCED PBICES (PENSION) are made for prolonged stay 
 in the early and later part of the season. 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 Open from the 15 th of MAY, 
 
 T. F. KNEOHTENHOFEE, Proprietor. 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE, 
 
 Kept by Mr. HERMANN RIMPS. 
 
 Tjj'XOELLENT Second-class Hotel, very well situated, containing a 
 
 branch “ Pension Felsenogg,” with a fine Garden attached. It has been recently enlarged 
 and newly furnished, and contains 80 Beds. Boarders taken in, per day 5£ francs during the 
 months of May, June, September, October; and 6£ francs per day during the months of July 
 and August. English, French, and German Newspapers. Omnibuses, Private Carriages, 
 and Saddle Horses. English spoken. The moderate charges of the Hotel Belle Vue are to 
 be particularly noticed. $ 
 
 ITALY. 
 
 A NGLO-AMERICAN BANKERS— Messrs. Maquay, Hooker & Co., 
 
 Florence— V ia Tornabuoni, No. 5. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker &; Oo., Rome— Piazza 
 di Spagna, No. 20. Messrs. Maquay, Hooker & Go., Leghorn — Via Borra, No. 7. With 
 Branches at Pisa, Siena, and Baths of Lucca. 
 
 Agents and direct Correspondents of all the principal Bankers in Europe and the United 
 States. Read' n^- rooms. Goods stored and forwarded for clients ? &c., 
 
42 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 HOTEL DAMASCUS. j 
 
 ^ HORNSTEIN begs to inform Visitors to the “Holy 
 
 City ” that his Hotel has undergone a thorough renovation, and is now 
 replete with everything tending to make them comfortable durng a long or short 
 stay. It is finely situated near the Damascus Gate, all the Consulates, Mosque of 
 Omar, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and all the other interesting places recorded 
 in Sacred History. A splendid view of the Mount of Olives, Mosque of Omar, and 
 a large portion of the City. 
 
 The Bedrooms are large, airy, and clean. The Wines are of the best quality, and 
 moderate in price. Table d’Hote, 12 and 6*30 o’clock, 
 
 A, H, speaks English and other European languages, and wife a Scotchwoman, 
 
 No Pool or Stagnant Water in the vicinity. 
 
 LIEGE. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANHLETERRE, 
 
 PLACE DU THEATRE ROYAL A LIEGE. 
 
 Mr. CLUCK, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS large and magnificent Hotel, much frequented by English families 
 -L of distinction, also by Tourists and Travellers, is situated in the finest part of the town, 
 at a short distance from the Railway Stations and from the Steamboats, contiguous to the 
 Boulevards, and also very near places of public amusement. It is celebrated for its Cleanli- 
 ness, good attendance, and reasonable prices. Excellent large and small well furnished 
 apartments, suitable for Families or Single Travellers. Fixed prices. Superior Cooking, and 
 Table d’Hote very good. English, French, and German spoken. 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 THE best Remedy for Acidity ot 
 the Stomach, Heartburn, Headache , 
 Gout, and Indigestion ; and the best mild 
 aperient for delicate constitutions, es- 
 pecially adapted for Ladies, Children, 
 and Infants. 
 
 DINNEFORD k CO., 172, New Bond Street ; and of all Chemists throughout the world. 
 
 ESSENTIALS FOR TRAVELLING. I ft 
 
 Thresher’s India Tweed Suits. Thresher’s Kashmir Flannel Shirts. I g e 
 
 Thresher’s Kashmir Woollen Socks. Thresher’s Coloured Flannel Shirts. 
 Thresher’s Travelling Bags. 
 
 Sold only by THRESHER AND GLENNY, l® 
 
 NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE, STRAND. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 43 
 
 LONDON 
 
 THE CONTINENT. 
 
 COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF 
 DIFFERENT NATIONS. 
 
 Society of Couriers and Travelling 
 Servants. 
 
 Established 16 Yeaks. 
 
 Patronised by the Royal Pamily, Mobility, and Gentry. 
 
 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES’S. 
 
 FIIS Society is composed of Members of different Nations, 
 
 all of well-established reputation, great experience, efficiency, 
 and respectability. 
 
 Couriers suitable for any country can be obtained. 
 
 Italians, Germans, Swiss, French, and Men of other 
 Nations, compose this Society; some of whom, besides the 
 usually required languages, speak Spanish, Russian, Swedish, 
 Turkish, and Arabic,— in fact, every Continental and European 
 language. 
 
 Travellers for any part can immediately meet with 
 Couriers and Travelling Servants on application to the 
 Secretary. 
 
 COURIERS AND TRAVELLING SERVANTS OF DIFFERENT NATIONS, 
 12, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES’S. 
 
44 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 PASSPORT AGENCY OFFICE, 
 
 W. J. ADAMS, 59, FLEET STREET, LONDON, E.C. 
 Regulations gratis for obtaining Foreign Office Passports. 
 
 COUNTRY or LONDON Residents, 
 
 \J by forwarding a Banker’s Application, or 
 Certificate of Identity, can have a PASSPORT 
 and VISAS obtained. By this arrangement, a 
 personal attendance is unnecessary. 
 
 Cost of Passport, 2s. ; Visas, Various. 
 
 Passports caref ully Mounted and Cased, and 
 Names lettered thereon in Gold. 
 
 Passport Cases from Is. 6d. to 5s. 6d. each. 
 
 THE LATEST EDITIONS OF MURRAY’S HANDBOOKS. 
 BRADSHAW’S BRITISH and CONTINENTAL GUIDES and HANDBOOKS 
 
 to France, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Spain and Portugal, Normandy, Brittany, 
 Tyrol, Paris, Turkey, Syria, and Palestine (2 vols). 
 
 Tourist’s Handbook to Great Britain, &c., in four parts. 
 
 Baedeker’s Handbooks, Ball’s Alpine Guides, Pack’s Pyrenees. 
 
 Bradshaw’s Complete Phrase Books, French, Italian, Spanish, and German. Is. each. 
 Bradshaw’s Overland and Through Route Guide to India, China, and Australia, 5s. 
 Bradshaw’s Handbooks to Bombay, Madras, and Bengal, 10s. each. 
 
 Kkllar’s, Leitthold’s, and Ziegler’s Maps of Switzerland. Mate’s Map op the Tyrol, 
 Knapsacks, Rugs, Waterproof Coats, Door-fasteners, Handbags, Portmanteaus, Straps, Soap, 
 Compasses, Drinking Cups, Courier Bags, Glycerine, &c. 
 
 Harper & Appleton’s Handbook to Europe and the East 
 Black’s Guides to England, Ireland, Wales, and Scotland, 
 
 O’Shea’s Spain and Portugal. 
 
 Phrase Books and Dictionaries. 
 
 Experienced Couriers engaged upon application. 
 
 T HE LONDON and WESTMINSTER BANK issues Cir- 
 cular Notes of £10, £25, and £50 each, for the use of Travellers, payable 
 in the principal Towns on the Continent of Europe, also in Asia, Africa, and 
 North and South America. No expense whatever is incurred, and when cashed no 
 charge is made for commission. Letters of Credit are also granted on the same 
 places.' They may be obtained at the City Office in Lothbury, or at any of the 
 Branches, viz.: 
 
 Westminster Branch 
 Bloomsbury „ 
 
 Southwark „ 
 
 Eastern „ 
 
 Marylebone „ 
 
 Temple Bar „ 
 
 Lambeth „ 
 
 1 > St James’s Square. 
 
 214, High Hoi born. 
 
 6, High Street. Borough. 
 
 130, High Street, Whitechapel. 
 
 4, Stratford Place, Oxford Street. 
 217, Strand. 
 
 89 & 9 1, Westminster Bridge Road. 
 
 May, 1873. 
 
 W. S. HIGLEY, General Manager. 
 
 THE CONTINENT, &c. 
 
 16mo. 35. 6d. 
 
 TTANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK, for 
 
 in English — French — German — and Italian. 
 
 the use of Travellers, 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLJ3 STREET, 
 
Murray's Handbook advertiser. 
 
 is?3. 
 
 45 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 CHUBB’S LOCKS AND SAFES. 
 
 PRIZE MEDALS AWARDED at the following Exhibitions:— 
 LONDON 1851, PARIS 1855, LONDON 1862, DUBLIN 1865, PARIS 1867. 
 
 OHTJBB & SON, 
 
 BY APPOINTMENTS, 
 
 MAKERS TO THE QUEEN, AND TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES. 
 
 HUBB’S PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, the most secure from 
 
 picklocks and false keys, are strong, simple, and durable, and made of all sizes and for 
 every purpose to which a Lock can be applied. 
 
 Trunks, Portmanteaus, Travelling Bags, Dressing Cases, Writing Desks, <fec., fitted with 
 only the usual common and utterly insecure Locks, can have the place of these supplied by 
 Chubb’s Patent without alteration or injury. 
 
 Travellers’ Lock-Protectors and Portable Scutcheon Locks for securing Doors that 
 may be found fastened only by common Locks. 
 
 CHUBB & SON have always in stock a variety of Writing and Despatch Boxes in 
 Morocco or Russia Leather and Japanned Tin ; the latter being particularly recommended 
 for lightness, room, durability, and freedom from damage by insects or hot climates. 
 
 Rest Black Enamelled Leather Travelling Bags of various sizes, all with 
 Chubb’s Patent Locks. Cash, Deed, and Paper Boxes of all dimensions. 
 
 p HUBB’S PATENT SAFES are com 
 
 structed in the very best manner, of the strongest 
 wrought iron, fitted with Chubb’s Patent Drill-pre- 
 ventive and their Gunpowder-proof Steel-plated 
 Locks, are the most secure from fire and burglary, and 
 form the most complete safeguard for Books, Papers, Deeds, 
 J ewels, Plate, and other valuable property. 
 
 CHUBB & SON have also strong wronght-iron Safes, 
 without fire-resisting lining, but equally secure in all other 
 respects, intended for holding plate where protection from 
 fire is not an object, and affording much more r®om inside 
 , , , _ than the Patent Safes. They are recommended specially 
 
 UnubD s Jewel Sales, in place of the ordinary wooden cases for plate, which may 
 For Ladies* Dressing Rooms, so easily be broken open. 
 
 Attention is requested to the following letter, which, appeared in the “TIMES ” 
 of 11th May, 1870 
 
 “JEWEL ROBBERIES. 
 
 “ To the Editor of the Times. 
 
 “Sir, — Allow me for the sake of the reputation of myself and my fellow craftsmen, to 
 say that, having carefully noted the Jewel Robberies in Dwelling-houses for the last 30 years, 
 1 have never known any Robbery to have been effected where the Jewels were in a safe, 
 and the Key inaccessible. It is true that many ladies are careless either in leaving their 
 Key about or in trusting it to a servant, but if Safe-makers will make the Key so small 
 that a Lady may wear it without inconvenience, it may always be carried on the person. 
 
 “ In a recent Rubbery, upon which you commented In a leading article a few weeks since, 
 the Jewels were all left outside, on the top of the Safe. 
 
 “ I am, Sir, your obedient Servant, 
 
 “ 57, St. Paul's Churchyard, May 10th, 1870." “ JOHN CHUBB." 
 
 Complete Illustrated Priced Lists of Chubb’s Locks, Boxes , Safes, and other Manufactures , 
 gratis and post-free. 
 
 CHUBB and SON, Makers to the Bank of England, 57, St. Paul’s Church- 
 yard, London, E.C. ; 28, Lord Street, Liverpool; 68, Cross Street, Man- 
 chester ; and Horseley Fields, Wolverhampton. 
 
46 
 
 Murray’s handbook advertiser. May, 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 37, WEST STRAND, LONDON, W.C. 
 
 New Illustrated Catalogues of Registered and Patented Articles 
 
 Post Pree. 
 
 By Appointment to H.R.H. 
 
 The Prince of Wales. 
 
 ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT ALLEN’S PATENT 
 
 BAG. DESPATCH-BOX DESK. Quadruple Portmanteau. 
 
 ALLEN’S 
 SOLID LEATHER 
 DRESSING-CASE. 
 
 ALLEN’S NEW 
 DRESSING BAG. 
 
 ALLEN’S SOLID LADY’S 
 
 MAHOGANY WARDROBE 
 
 DRESSING-CASE. PORTMANTEAU. 
 
 ALSO 
 
 Allen’s Barrack Furniture Catalogue, for 
 Officers joining, Post Free. 
 
 PRIZE MEDAL AWARDED 
 
 FOR GENERAL EXCELLENCE. 
 
1S?3. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.’ 
 
 47 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 wm. 
 
 
 
 imjm- 
 
 
 pgg4|a|S 
 
 Miff 
 
 MMI 
 
 If 
 
 0 CONI 
 
 iffl 
 
 si 
 
 I! 
 
 TRA 
 
 IftH 
 
 ,ERS 
 
 DORRELL & SON’S 
 PASSPORT AGENCY, 
 15, CHARING CROSS, S.W. 
 
 Every Information given respecting Travelling on the Continent. 
 French and Italian spoken, and Correspondence carried on' in either Language. 
 
 British Subjects visit- 
 ing the Continent will 
 save trouble and expense 
 by obtaining their Pass- 
 ports through the above 
 Agency. No personal 
 attendance is required, 
 and country residents 
 may have their Pass- 
 ports forwarded through 
 the post. A ‘Passport 
 Prospectus/ containing 
 every particular in de- 
 
 j Fee , Obtaining Passport , Is. 6 d . ; Visas , is. each . 
 
 THE LATEST EDITIONS ^OF 
 
 tail, by post, on applica- 
 tion. 
 
 Passports Mounted, 
 and enclosed In Cases, 
 with the name of the 
 bearer impressed in gold 
 on the outside ; thus af- 
 fording security against 
 injury or loss, and pre- 
 venting delay in the 
 frequent examination of 
 the Passport when tra- 
 velling. 
 
 Cases , Is. 6 d . to 5 s . each . 
 
 HANDBOOKS. 
 
 MURRAY’S 
 
 English and Foreign Stationery, Dialogue Books, Couriers’ Bags, Pocket- 
 books and Purses of every description, Travelling Inkstands, 
 and a variety of other Articles useful for Travellers. 
 
 FOREIGN BOOKS AT FOREIGN PRICES. 
 
 Travellers may save expense and trouble by purchasing Foreign Books in 
 England at the same Prices at which they are published in Germany or France. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE 
 
 have published the following CATALOGUES of their Stock : — 
 
 1. CLASSICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 2. THEOLOGICAL CATA- 
 
 LOGUE. 
 
 3. FRENCH CATALOGUE. 
 
 4. GERMAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 5. EUROPEAN LINGUISTIC 
 
 CATALOGUE. 
 
 6. OMENTAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 7. ITALIAN CATALOGUE. 
 
 8. SPANISH CATALOGUE. 
 
 9. ART-CATALOGUE. Art, Archi- 
 
 tecture, Painting, Illustrated Books. 
 
 10. NATURAL HISTORY 
 CATALOGUE. Zoology, Bo- 
 tany, Geology, Chemistry, Mathe- 
 matics, &c. 
 
 11. MEDICAL CATALOGUE. 
 
 Medicine, Surgery, and the Depen- 
 dent Sciences. 
 
 12. SCHOOL CATALOGUE. Ele- 
 mentary Books, Maps, &c. 
 
 13. FOREIGN BOOK CIRCU- 
 LARS. New Books, and New 
 Purchases. 
 
 14. SCIENTIFIC-BOOK CIRCU- 
 LARS. New Books and Recent 
 Purchases. 
 
 ANY CATALOGUE SENT POST-FREE FOR ONE STAMP. 
 
 WILLIAMS & NORGATE, Importers of Foreign Books, 
 
 14 , Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London, and 
 20 , South Frederick Street, Edinburgh. 
 
48 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 THIS 
 
 NATIONAL PROVINCIAL BANK of ENGLAND. 
 
 ESTABLISHED IN THE YEAR 1833. 
 
 Head Office — BISHOPSG AT E STREET, corner of THREADNEEDLE STREET. 
 St. James’ Branch— 14, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. 
 
 St, Marylebone „ 28, BAKER STREET. 
 
 Islington „ 173, UPPER STREET. 
 
 Capital. 
 
 SUBSCRIBED CAPITAL £2,550,000 0 0 
 
 PAID-UP CAPITAL 1,305,000 0 0 
 
 RESERVE FUND 501,655 8 5 
 
 Ho. of SHAREHOLDERS 2,974. 
 
 23tmtnr£. 
 
 Richard Blaney Wade, Esq., 13, Seymour 
 Street, Povtman Square, W. 
 
 Hon. Eliot Thomas Yorke, 15, Park 
 Street, Grosvenor Square, W. 
 
 Duncan Macdonald, Esq., Weybank Lodge, 
 Guildford, Surrey, and Belgrave Mansions, 
 Grosvenor Gardens, S.W. 
 
 George Hanbury Field, Esq., 67, Eccleston 
 j Square, S.W. 
 
 Alex. Robertson, Esq., 20, Grafton Street, 
 Berkeley Square, W., and the College, 
 Elgin, N.B. 
 
 ' R. Wigram, Esq., Whitehall Yard. 
 
 The National Provincial Bank of England, having numerous branches in England and 
 Wales, as well as agents and correspondents at home and abroad, affords great facilities to 
 parties transacting Banking business with it in London. Customers keeping accounts with 
 the Bank in town may have moneys paid to their credit at its various branches, and remitted 
 free of charge. 
 
 Current accounts conducted at the Head Office and Metropolitan Branches on the usual 
 terms of London Banks. * 
 
 Deposits at interest received in London of sums of 10£. and upwards, for which receipts are 
 granted, called “ Deposit Receipts and interest allowed according to the value of money 
 from time to time as advertised by the Bank in the newspapers. 
 
 The Agency of Country and Foreign Banks, whether Joint Stock or Private, is undertaken. 
 
 Purchases and Sales effected in all British and Foreign Stocks ; and Dividends, Annuities, 
 $c., received for customers. 
 
 Circular Notes and Letters of Credit are issued for the use of Travellers on the Continent 
 and elsewhere. 
 
 At the Country Branches, Deposits are received and all other Banking business is con- 
 ducted on tbe usual terms. 
 
 l’he Officers of the Bank are bound to secrecy as regards the transactions of its customers. 
 
 Copies of the last Annual Report of the Bank, Lists of Shareholders, Branches, Agents, 
 and Correspondents, may be had on application at the Head Office, and at any of the Bank's 
 Branches. 
 
 By order of the Directors, 
 
 E. ATKINSON, ) Joint 
 WM. HOLT, 5 General Managers. 
 
 Right Hon. Lord Ernest Augustus Charles 
 Brudenell Bruce, M.P., St. George’s 
 Place, Hyde Park Corner, S.W. 
 
 John Oliver Hanson, Esq., 4, Dorset 
 Square, N.W. 
 
 John Kingston, Esq., 6, Crosby Square, 
 E.C. 
 
 Henry Paull, Esq., 33, Devonshire Place* 
 Portland Place, W. 
 
 John Stewart, Esq., 20, Throgmorton St., 
 E.C. 
 
 Sir James Sibbald David Scott, Bart.» 
 18, Cornwall Gardens, W. 
 
1873. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 40 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 IMTudie’s Select Library 
 
 BOOKS FOR ALL READERS. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS SUBSCRIPTION 
 
 FOE A CONSTANT SUCCESSION OF THE NEWEST BOOKS, 
 
 One Guinea per Annum, 
 
 COMMENCING AT ANY DATE. 
 
 BOOK SOCIETIES SUPPLIED ON LIBERAL TERMS. 
 
 CHEAP BOOKS.— NOTICE. 
 
 TWENTY THOUSAND VOLUMES OF 
 
 BOOKS IN ORNAMENTAL BINDING FOR PRESENTS. 
 
 CONSISTING CHIEPLY OF 
 
 WORKS OF THE BEST AUTHORS, 
 
 AND MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED THOUSAND VOLUMES 
 of Surplus Copies of other Popular Books of the Past Season, 
 
 ARE NOW ON SALE AT GREATLY REDUCED PRICES, 
 Catalogues postage free on Application, 
 
 MUDIE’S SELECT LIBRARY, New Oxford Street, London, 
 
 CITY OFFICE— 2, King Street, Cheapside. 
 
 Stanford’s Foreign Office Passport Agency, 
 
 6 & 7, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, S.W. 
 
 Passports (which are good for life) 
 mounted on Muslin or Silk, in Roan, 
 Morocco, or Russia Case, with the 
 name of the Owner lettered on the 
 outside, thus preventing injury or 
 loss, as well as lessening the delay in 
 examination abroad. 
 
 For further particulars, including 
 the Forms of Application, Cost of 
 Passport, Visas, &c., see Stanford’s 
 Passport Circular, which will 
 he forwarded per post on receipt of 
 One Stamp. 
 
 Gratis on application, or free per post for One Stamp, 1 
 
 STANFORD’S TOURIST’S CATALOGUE, 
 
 Containing Title, Price, &c., of the Best Guide Books, Maps, Conversation Books, Diction- 
 aries* &c., published in the United Kingdom, the Continent* and America, and kept con* 
 Btantly in stock by Edward Stanford. 
 
 London: EDWARD STANFORD, 6 & 7, Charing Crocs, S.W., 
 
 Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance Maps, Geologiral Survey Maps, and Admiralty Charts* 
 
50 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 Important to the Travelling Public. 
 PARCELS TO AND FROM THE CONTINENT. 
 
 THE CONTINENTAL 
 
 DAILY PARCELS EXPRESS, 
 
 Known on the Continent as “L’Agenoe Continentale,” 
 (ESTABLISHED 1849), 
 
 S OLE Agency for England of the Belgian Government 
 RAILWAY, THE IMPERIAL GERMAN POST, and Correspondent of the 
 Northern of France Railway, conveys by Mail Steam Packets, Twice Daily 
 (Sunday excepted), via Dover, Ostend, and Calais, and rapidly by Rail and Post to 
 destination, Sample Parcels and Packages of all kinds, between England and every 
 part of the Continent. The Through Rates which are very moderate, and include 
 ail charges, except Duties and Entries,- are to be had gratis on application. 
 
 Parcels should he hooked as follows : — 
 HOMEWARD.-From the Continent. 
 
 In all Germany. At any Post-office of the Imperial German Post, or of the 
 Countries in connection therewith, viz., Austria, Switzerland, Russia, 
 Denmark, &c. The Address, and especially the Waybill (Frachtbrief) 
 should bear the words ** Service de PAgence Continentale vid 
 Ostende.” 
 
 Belgium, At any of the State Railway Stations, at the Office of the Agent in 
 Brussels, A. Crqoy, 90 bis, Montague de laCour; or they can be 
 sent direct to Mr. De Ridder, 54, Rue St, Joseph, Ostend. 
 
 Holland. In the principal towns, Van Gend and Loos. 
 
 France. Paris, G. Pritchard, 4, Rue Rossini. To whose care also, parcels 
 for conveyance to England can be despatched from towns beyond 
 Paris, with advice by Post. Also at 23 Rue Dunkerque, opposite the 
 Card du Nord, P. Bigeault. 
 
 Note. — No parcels or luggage sent from the Continent to England should be | 
 addressed Poste liestante, or to be left at any Hotel or Hallway Station , as they 
 are- seldom taken in. They can be addressed Bureau Restant, Agence Continentale, j 
 Dover. 
 
 OUTWARD. -To the Continent. 
 
 In London, At Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street, City (D. N. Bridge, 
 Manager, to whom all communications should be addressed), or at the 
 Spread Eagle Universal Office, 34, Regent Circus. 
 
 In Country Towns. At the Agency in Liverpool, Manchester, Sheffield, Hull, ; 
 
 Leeds, Glasgow, Dublin, Bradford, Nottingham, Southampton, Dover, ) 
 and Folkestone. 
 
 In other Towns, where no Agent may be appointed, parcels should 
 be sent under cover by Railway, to D. N. Bridge, at above address, jl 
 with advice of contents and value by Post. . ■ 
 
 ,.B. — Persons wishing to send or to obtain goods of any kind from Belguim, I 
 Can do so through this Express, “ Contre Remboulsement, ,, «.<?., Payment of the j 
 Amount of Invoice on delivery of the Parcel. Insurance rates moderate. 
 
 London! Chief Office, 53, Gracechurch Street. 
 
 1373. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 5i 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 APPEAL. 
 
 TV HE COMMITTEE of the CHUECH of ENGLAND 
 
 EDUCATION SOCIETY earnestly appeal for increased funds to enable them 
 to continue the Society’s operations. 
 
 Many of our Schools for the Poor are either absolutely dependent upon the 
 Society’s grants, or would be crippled in their work without such aid. The Society 
 also assists Pupil Teachers who would otherwise be unable to complete their 
 course of training. The Society also supplies Subscribers and Schools with all 
 kinds of Books and Stationery at wholesale prices. 
 
 The Society’s means are far from adequate to the exigencies of the present crisis, 
 which urgently demand every possible effort to secure for an increasing population 
 a sound Protestant Education, and to counteract the pernicious influence of 
 Secular School Boards. 
 
 F. MAUDE, R.N., Chairman . 
 
 REGINALD GUNNERY, Hon . Cler. Sec. 
 
 11, Adam, Street, AdelpJii, London, IF. G. 
 
 “ A most delicious and valuable article.”— Standard. 
 
 CDV’C CARACAS COCOA 
 
 I 11 I Prepared with Caracas and other choice growths of Cocoa, 
 
 “It is the very finest Cocoa ever offered to the public V—uowr* circular . 
 
 Extract of Cocoa 
 
 The Pure Cocoa Nib deprived of the superfluous oil. 
 
 Of great value to invalids and others obliged to avoid rich 
 articles of diet. 
 
 Cocoa Paste and Milk 
 
 Prepared with Pure Condensed Milk. 
 
 Only requires to be mixed with boiling water to produce 
 a delicious cup of Cocoa, 
 
 Travellers will find any of these articles of great value- 
 
 J.S. FRY & SONS, BRISTOL & LONDON. 
 
Murray’s HANbBock AbvfcutisfeR. 
 
 62 
 
 Mn_V, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 A VOICE FROM HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 14, North Cross-street, Gosport, October 16th, 1872. 
 
 Dear Sirs, — About five or six years ago I was very ill, suffering from boils, of the painful 
 and dangerous kind called carbuncular boils, and no medicine which I took gave me relief, 
 till a friend of mine advised me to try Parr’s Life Pills ; but I would not do so for some 
 time, as I had no faith that they could do me good, but my friend becoming more urgent, I, 
 to satisfy him, tried these Pills, and soon found so much benefit that 1 determined to per- 
 severe, and thankful I am that 1 did so, for the result is a perfect cure. I have never been 
 troubled since, and an occasional dose keeps me in capital good health.— I am. Gentlemen, 
 yours respectfully and gratefully, J. Carswell. 
 
 Messrs. T. Roberts and Co., 8, Crane-court, Fleet-street, E.C. 
 
 Parr’s Life Pills may be had of all the principal druggists and medicine vendors throughout 
 the world. In Boxes, Is. 1 id., 2s. 9d., and in Family Packets, 11s. each. 
 
 By Royal 
 
 Command. 
 
 JOSEPH GILLOTT’S 
 
 CELEBRATED 
 
 STEEL PENS. 
 
 SOLD BY ALL DE ALERS* T HROUGH OUT THE WORLD. 
 
 Every Packet bears the facsimile 
 of his Signature, 
 
 TOURISTS! TOURISTS! TOURISTS! 
 
 The Miniature Photographic Apparatus, 
 
 NO KNOWLEDGE OF PHOTOGRAPHY REQUISITE. 
 
 Sole Manufacturers: 
 
 MURRAY & HEATH, Opticians, &c., to Her Majesty, 
 
 69, JERMYN STREET, LONDON, S.W. 
 
 Description and Prices forwarded on receipt of stamped envelope. 
 
1873, 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 53 
 
 LON DON. 
 
 CARY’S IMPROVED POCKET TOURIST'S TELESCOPE, 
 
 (See * Murray* s Handbook*) 
 
 Manufacturer of all descriptions of Mathematical, Surveying, and Optical Instruments, fop 
 the use of Naval and Military Officers, &c. Also the new Binocular Reconnoitring Field 
 Glass, in Aluminium of exceeding lightness and durability, so highly spoken of by officers 
 and other gentlemen : from hi. 5s. ; ordinary metal from ll. 10s. Caryls improved Achro- 
 matic Microscope, with two sets of choice lenses, capable of defining the severe test 
 objects; from 21. 15s. Travelling Spectacles of all kinds. 
 
 Mathematical and Optical Instrument Maker by special appointment to the War Office, 
 
 , Admiralty, Trinity House, Royal Military College, Sandhurst, Royal Geographical Society, 
 Christ's Hospital, Trinity House, King’s College, &c.; and Optician to the Royal London 
 Ophthalmic Hospital. 
 
 GOULD & PORTER, Successors to CARY, 131, STRAND, LONDON. 
 Established upwards of a Century. 
 
 PURE AERATED WATERS. 
 
 ELLIS’S 
 
 RUTHIN WATERS, 
 
 Soda, Potass, Seltzer, Lemonade, 
 Lithia, and for GOTJT, Lithia 
 and Potass. 
 
 CORKS BRANDED “ R. ELLIS & SON, RUTHIN,” and every label bears their trade 
 mark. Sold everywhere, and Wholesale by R. Ellis & Son, Ruthin, North Wales, 
 
 London Agents : W. Best & Sons, Henrietta St., Cavendish Square. 
 
 MB. TENNANT, GEOLOGIST, 149, STEAND, LONDON, 
 
 ILL W.C., gives practical Instruction in Mineralogy and Geology. He can also supply 
 Elementary Collections of Minerals, Rocks, and Fossils, on the following terms : — 
 
 100 Small Specimens, in cabinet, with three trays £2 2 0 
 
 *200 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with five trays ....... 550 
 
 300 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with nine drawers . • . . 10 10 0 
 
 400 Specimens, larger, in cabinet, with thirteen drawers .... 21 0 0 
 
 More extensive collections, to illustrate Geology, at 50 to 100 Guineas each, with every 
 requisite to assist those commencing the study of this interesting science, a knowledge of 
 which affords so much pleasure to the traveller in all parts of the world. 
 
 * A collection for Five Guineas which will illustrate the recent works on Geology by 
 Ansted, Buckland, Jukes, Lyell, Murchison, Page, Phillips, and contains 200 Specimens, in 
 a cabinet, with 5 trays, comprising the following, viz.: — 
 
 Minerals which are either the components of Rocks, or occasionally imbedded in them : — 
 Quartz, Agate, Chalcedony, Jasper, Garnet, Zeolite, Hornblende, Augite, Asbestus, Felspar, 
 Mica, Talc, Tourmaline, Zircon, Topaz, Spinel, Calcareous Spar, Fluor, Selenite, Baryta, 
 Strontia, Salt, Cryolite, Sulphur, Plumbago, Bitumen, Jet, &c. 
 
 Native Metals or Metalliferous Minerals: these are found in masses, in beds, or in 
 veins, and occasionally in the beds of rivers. Specimens of the following are contained in 
 the Cabinet .‘—Iron, Manganese, Lead, Tin, Zinc, Copper, Antimony, Silver, Gold, Platina,&c, 
 Rocks: — Granite, Gneiss, Mica-slate, Porphyry .Serpentine, Sandstones, Limestones, Lavas, &c. 
 Palaeozoic Fossils, from the Llandeilo.Wenlock, Ludlow, Devonian, and CarboniferousRocks, 
 Secondary Fossils, from the Trias, Lias, Oolite, Wealden, and Cretaceous Groups. 
 Tertiary Fossils, from the Woolwich, Barton, and Bracklesham Beds, London Clay, Crag, &c. 
 In the more expensive Collections some of the Specimens are rare, and all more select. 
 
 ELEMENTARY LECTURES ON MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY, 
 
 adapted to young persons, are given by J. TENNANT, F.R.G.S., at his residence, 149, 
 STRAND, W.C., and Private Instruction to Travellers, Engineers, Emigrants, Landed Pro- 
 prietors, and others, illustrated by an extensive collection of Specimens, Diagrams, Models, &c. 
 
 All the recent works relating to Mineralogy, Geology, Conchology, and Chemistry; also 
 Geological Maps, Models, Diagrams, Hammers, Blowpipes, Magnifying Glasses, Platina Spoons, 
 Electrometer and Magnetic Needle, Glass-top Boxes, Microscopic Objects, Acid Bottles, &c,, 
 c$n be supplied to the Student in these interesting and important branches of Science, 
 
54 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 THE FURNISHING OF BED-ROOMS. 
 
 HEAL & SON have 16 separate Rooms, each completely furnished with 
 a different Suite of Furniture, irrespective of their general Stock displayed 
 in Six Galleries and Two Large Ground-floor Warerooms, the whole 
 forming the most complete stock of Bed-room Furniture in the Kingdom. 
 
 Japanned Deal Goods may be seen jin complete suites of five or six 
 different colours, some of them light and ornamental, and others of a 
 plainer description. Suites of Stained Deal Gothic Furniture, Polished 
 Deal, Oak, and Walnut, are set apart in separate rooms, so that customers 
 are able to see the effect as it would appear in their own rooms. A 
 Suite of very superior Gothic Oak Furniture is generally kept in stock, 
 and from time to time new and select Furniture in various woods is 
 addedg IR3TAW HlHTUfl' 
 
 Bed Furnitures are fitted to the Bedsteads in large numbers, so that a 
 complete assortment can be seen, and the effect of any particular pattern 
 ascertained as it would appear on the Bedstead. 
 
 A very large stock of Bedding (HEAL & SON’S original trade) is 
 placed on the BEDSTEADS. 
 
 The Stock of Mahogany Goods for the better Bed-rooms, and Japanned 
 Goods for plain and Servants* use, is very greatly increased. The entire 
 Stock is arranged in sixteen rooms, six galleries, each 120 feet long, and 
 large ground-floors, the whole forming as complete an assortment of Bed- 
 room Furniture as they think can be desired. 
 
 Every attention is paid to the manufacture of the Cabinet work, and 
 they have large Workshops on the premises for this purpose, that the 
 manufacture may be under their own immediate care. 
 
 Their Bedding trade receives their constant and personal attention, 
 every article being made on the premises. 
 
 They particularly call attention to their Patent Spring Mattrass, the 
 Sommier Elastique Portatif. It is portable, durable, and elastic, and lower | 
 in price than the old Spring Mattrass. 
 
 HEAL AND SON’S 
 
 ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE OF 
 
 BEDSTEADS, BEDDING, & BED-ROOM FURNITURE, 
 
 SENT FREE BY POST. 
 
 196, 197, 198, TOTTENHAM COURT ROAD. 
 
}873. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 55 
 
 lucerne, 
 
 SGHWEIZERHOF. M1ERKEM0F. 
 
 First-class I-Idtcls* 
 
 HAUSER BROTHERS, Proprietors. 
 
 BEST SITUATION ON THE QUAY. 
 
 With splendid View of the Celebrated Panorama of the 
 
 LAKE AND MOUNTAINS, 
 
 ■ .. M : ■ ■; . (i . .. , . . . '? I 0;;T 1-i ■- * [ h<i 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 -GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL. 
 
 * 
 
 SEGESSER BROTHERS & CO., Proprietors, : 
 
 mHIS most elegant and comfortable Establishment- is one 
 -1- of the largest in Europe. It is beautifully situated on 
 the border of the Lake, with a splendid view of the Alps, 
 Visitors are certain of meeting with every possible comfort'. 
 
 Drawing-Room, Reading-Room, Billiard, Music 
 Saloon, and Pianos. Bath, &c. 
 
 LIFT AT THE CONTINUAL DISPOSITION OF VISITORS, 
 
 MODERATE PRICES, 
 
56 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Proprietor — JEAN EEBER, 
 
 HTIIIS First-rate Establishment, very well recommended by 
 
 -*■ the best class of Travellers, is situated close to the Steamers' Landing-place, 
 and vis-a-vis the Railway Stations, on the loveliest position of the Lake, with 
 superb views of the Rigi, Pilatus, Alps, and Glaciers ; contains several Saloons, 
 62 comfortable Rooms, Smoking and Reading Rooms, where are French and 
 English newspapers. 
 
 IRST-CLASS HOTEL. Magnificent and unique position 
 
 on the borders of the Lake. Beautiful ornamental grounds. Boats for ex- 
 cursions on the Lake. Public Drawing-room. Smoking-room. Apartments for 
 Families, Warm Baths, and bathing in the Lake. Newspapers of different countries. 
 Cuisine excellent. Good attendance. Moderate prices. Arrangements made for 
 a long stay. In Spring and Autumn price of board and lodging 7 francs per day. 
 
 1 MI1S Hotel, in the very best situation, enjoys a high 
 
 . character. Mr. HjEFELI, the Proprietor, has made in the later years a great many 
 improvements, and does his utmost to offer to his Visitors a comfortable home. An 
 elegant new Ladies’ Drawing-room, besides a Reading-room and Smoking-room. Cold, 
 Warm, and Shower Baths. 
 
 LUCHON (BAGNERES DE), PYRENEES. 
 
 Grand Hotel Bonne-Maison et de Londres, 
 
 S ITUATED opposite the Thermal Establishment or Bath-rooms. This favourite 
 and first-rate Hotel affords extensive accommodation of the best description 
 for a large number of visitors. It is delightfully situated, and will be found 
 most comfortable for Families or Gentlemen. The house has been entirely 
 re-decorated throughout. 
 
 LUCERNE, 
 
 Proprietor— Mr. ED. ST RUB. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 SWAN HOTEL. 
 
 Mr. VIDAL, Jun., Proprietor. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 57 
 
 LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 H OTEL DE LUXEMBOURG. — Proprietor, J. P. Hastert. 
 
 This First-class Hotel recommends itself to Families and Single Gentlemen by the 
 cleanliness of its well-furnished airy apartments, all of them commanding a very beautiful 
 view. Excellent Table d’Hdte. Moderate Prices. Omnibus to and from every Train. 
 Travellers are recommended not to permit themselves to be misled by porters at the Station, 
 
 LUXEMBOURG. 
 
 HOTEL DE COLOGNE. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. WURTH FENDIUS. 
 
 THIS Hotel is of the first class, and is situated in the 
 J- centre of the town. The accommodation is both commodious and com- 
 fortable, and the prices on the most moderate scale. 
 
 Excellent Cuisine and fine Wjnes. Private Carriages belonging to the Hotel. 
 An Omnibus of the Hotel at the Station for the arrival of all Trains. 
 
 English spoken. A beautiful large Garden belonging to the Hotel. 
 
 MACON. 
 
 Stopping Place between Switzerland and Italy. 
 
 OTEL DES CHAMPS ELYSEES.— Buchalet, Proprietor. 
 
 —Close to the Railway Station. Omnibus to all the Trains. First-rate House. 
 Apartments for Families, Salons, Smoking Room. Table d’Hote and Service h la Carte. 
 
 This Hotel is recommended for its comfort and cleanliness. g Wines and Cuisine 
 renowned. 
 
 ii 
 
 MARIENBAD. 
 
 HOTEL KLINGER. 
 
 Proprietor, J. D. HALBMAYR. 
 
 F IRST and LARGEST HOTEL in this Watering Place. 
 
 Preferred on account of its charming situation at the corner of the Pro- 
 menade and Park, and has a beautiful view. Newly and elegantly furnished with 
 every comfort and in noble style, containing, with the dependance, 230 Rooms 
 Saloons, &c. 
 
 Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to the Railway Station . 
 
 M O A B. 
 
 With Map and 40 Illustrations, Crown 8vo., 15s. 
 
 'THE LAND OF MOAB. Travels and Discoveries on 
 
 the East Side of the Dead Sea and the Jordan. By H. B. Tristram, 
 F.R.S., Honorary Canon of Durham. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
 i> 3 
 
58 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 MARSEILLES. 
 
 GRAND H O T E L, 
 NOAILLES, 
 
 24, LTJE NOAILLES (Cannebiere prolongee). 
 
 First-class House, built in imitation of the Grand Hotel, Paris. 
 
 T HIS splendid Establishment, the LARGEST, MOST 
 IMPORTANT, AND MOST RECENT OF THE HOTELS OF 
 MARSEILLES, is the only one in the Rue Noailles which possesses a 
 large Garden in its centre surrounded by twelve Dining-rooms of the 
 Restaurant. Table-d’Hote all the Year with very excellent Wine. 
 Reading Room, Conversation Room, Piano, Smoking Room, and 15 , 
 Bath Rooms always ready. French and Foreign Political and Illustrated 
 Papers. The splendour and comfort of this Establishment, combined with 
 the attentive care of the employees, make this magnificent Hotel one of 
 the most important and celebrated in Europe, 
 
 MODERATE PRICES. ; ' A 
 
 STAFF AND INTERPRETERS SPEAKING ALL LANGUAGES. 
 
 Omnibuses of the Hotel to meet every Train, Private Carriages. Omnibuses 
 and Carriages enter the Hotel, 
 
 M A YE NOE. 
 
 HOTEL D’ANGLETERRE. 
 
 HENRY SPECHT, Wine Merchant and Grower. 
 
 rpHIS first-rate and excellent Hotel (combining every English comfort), situated 
 A in front of the Bridge, is the nearest Hotel to the Steamboats and close to the 
 Railway Stations. From its Balconies and Rooms are Picturesque Views of the 
 Rhine and Mountains. Galignani , Times , and Illustrated News taken in. The 
 Table-d’Hote is renowned for its excellence, and for its Genuine Rhenish Wines 
 and Sparkling Hock, which Mr. Specht exports to England at Wholesale Prices. 
 
 — MAYENCE. 
 
 HOTEL DE HOLLANDER 
 
 FEED. BUDINGEN, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS first-class well-known Hotel, much frequented by English Families and 
 Tourists, has been greatly enlarged and improved, and contains now 140 
 Rooms and Saloons. Cold, Warm, and Shower Baths. English comfort. This 
 Hotel is situated on the River, opposite to the Landing-place of the Rhine 
 Steamers, and near the Railway Station, and affords from its Balconies and Windows 
 splendid views of the Rhine and Taunus Mountains. This Hotel is reputed for its 
 excellent cooking, exquisite Wines, cleanliness and good attendance. English 
 Newspapers. 
 
 Choice Mine and Moselle Wines , wholesale and for exportation. 
 
1873, MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. SR 
 
 MENTONE- 
 
 HOTEL WESTMINSTER, 
 
 , HIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT, newly built and fu S - 
 nished with taste and according to all the latest improve- 
 ments. In a Southern aspect overlooking the sea and a beautiful 
 Garden giving access to the public, Promenade du Midi.” 
 Large Public Saloon. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. English 
 and several Foreign languages spoken, English and American 
 Luncheon Saloon, Omnibus at all Trains, , 
 
 * METZ. 
 
 ME. H. B. HAMILTON, 
 
 GUIDE TO GRAVELOTTE AND OTHER 
 BATTLE FIELDS AROUND METZ. 
 
 ADDRESS : 
 
 Grand Hotel de 1’Europe, Metz. 
 
 METZ. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE. 
 
 ME. MONIES, PBOPEXETOB. 
 
 rrlliS first-rate Hotel, much frequented by Families and Gentlemen, situated in the finest 
 .1 part of the town, near the Railway Station and Promenade, is replete with every comfort ; 
 the apartments are tastefully and elegantly furnished. It is celebrated for its cleanliness, 
 good attendance, and reasonable prices. Saloons, Reading, and Refreshment Rooms ; Table 
 d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock; Breakfasts and Dinners at all hours. Advantageous arrange- 
 ments made with Families during the Winter Season. In front of the Hotel there is a fine 
 extensive garden and large court-yard. Baths and carriages in the Hotel. Omnibuses and 
 carriages belonging to the Hotel convey passengers to and from the Railway Station. 
 English, French, Italian, and German spoken. Moderate prices. 
 
 The Bead Waiter, the First Housemaid, and the Page, are English Servants. Guide ta 
 Gravelotte 9 Mr. Hamilton. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 Hotel Cavour, Place Cavour, 
 
 Just opposite the Public Gardens. 
 
 KEPT BY J. SUABDX AND CO. 
 
 T HIS first-rate Hotel is fitted up with every modern appliance, and situated in the finest 
 part of Milan. It commands a fine view of the Promenade near to the Station, the Grand 
 Theatre, the National Museum, and the Protestant Church. Excellent Table-d'hote. Charges 
 very moderate. Baths on each floor. A Smoking and a Reading Room supplied with foreign 
 newspapers. 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all trains. ' ' 
 
60 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May 
 
 M I LAN. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE. 
 
 ^FO this Hotel has been added new Dining, Reading, Drawing, and Smoking rooms, 
 and the whole house entirely refurnished by the new proprietor, J. LYNAM. 
 Large and small Apartments for Families or Single Gentlemen. Hot and cold Baths. 
 The house is situated in the centre of the town, near the Cathedral, Theatres, and all 
 other places of interest. Good Table d*Hote. English Times taken in. Several 
 languages spoken, Tho house is only two stories high, Five minutes* walk from 
 the English Church, Brougham and Omnibus of the Hotel at the Station to meet all 
 trains. 
 
 MONTREUX. 
 
 LANGBEIN’S HOTEL AND PENSION. 
 
 BEAU SliGOUR AU LAC. 
 
 First-Class Family Hotel, with all English comforts, 
 j Restaurant. Table d’Hote. Baths. 
 
 Good Fishing. 
 
 i MONTREUX. 
 
 HOTEL DES ALPES. 
 
 ( Within ten minutes of C/iillon.) 
 
 A. CHESSEX, Proprietor. 
 
 F IRST-CLASS Establishment, surrounded witli immense 
 Gardens. Pension Charges for a long stay. Goats’ -milk • 
 cures in the Spring. Telegraph Office. Steamboat Pier in 
 front of the Hotel, Three pretty Chalets for large Families j 
 have lately been added to the Establishment. 
 
 1 
 
 MONUMENTS WITHOUT MEMORIALS. 
 
 With 230 Illustrations, Medium 8vo., 24s. 
 
 pUDE STONE MONUMENTS in all COUNTRIES; 
 
 •IN/ their Age and Uses. By James Fergusson, F.R.S,, Author of the 
 “History of Architecture,” &c., &c. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 61 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 ( ) { ) ' fj) — 44 — > ■! \f 
 
 HOTEL BILLG. 
 
 GREAT LUBIANKA STREET. 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. EDWARD BILLO. 
 
 ALREADY advantageously known for these past 20 Years, 
 and of late considerably Enlarged, and newly Furnished with all the 
 requirements of modern tinges, this FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, 
 entirely Private, has merited, under the careful attention of the Proprietor, 
 for its comfort, cleanliness, and order, the unquestionable patronage of the 
 most distinguished Travellers. 
 
 This Hotel is situated in the highest and healthiest part, the very centre 
 of Moscow, with the front to the sunside, and most convenient for visitors 
 on pleasure or business, being near the Imperial Theatre and Opera House, 
 the Kreml, and the Boulevards, and also close to the City, the Exchange, 
 the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the business places in general. 
 
 Single Rooms and Apartments, excellent Table d’Hote Dinner at 5| p.m,, 
 separate dinners, choice wines. Prices moderate. 
 
 Ladies’ Room, Reading and Smoking Room. English Newspapers, viz. : 
 4 The Times,’ * The Graphic,’ and ‘ Punch ;’ French and German News* 
 papers. Every sort of information about the town, its environs, trade, and 
 the inland communications. 
 
 Own Letter-box, Interpreters and Guides. Bank Notes and Bills of 
 Circular Letters changed. 
 
 Cold, Warm, Shower Baths, Sponge Tubs. Equipages and Droshkies 
 at the door. 
 
 No personal trouble whatever with the Passports, which are strictly 
 required by the police office. Own Carriage and attendance at the Peters- 
 burg Railway Station to receive the Travellers and their Luggage. It is 
 advisable to secure Rooms beforehand, especially during the time of the 
 Nishny Fair (in August), and during the Carnival time (in January and 
 February). 
 
 CAUTION. — Travellers are cautioned not to confound tho HOTEL 
 BILLO with other establishments of nearly unisonous names, and 
 to take care not to allow themselves to be led away by the Cabmen 
 or Iswoschtschiks and other interested persons, especially at 
 St. Petersburg, but to insist on being conducted to the HOTEL 
 BILLO, Great Lubianka; in Russian, Gostinnitza Billo , Bolshaia 
 Lubianka . * 
 
62 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER.; 
 
 May, 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 WIMMER & CO., 
 
 GALLERY OP PINE ARTS. 
 
 3, BRIENNER STREET, 
 
 Invite the Nobility and Gentry to visit their Gallery op Fine Art!, containing 
 an Extensive Collection of 
 
 MODERN PAINTINGS 
 
 by the best Munich Artists, 
 
 FAINTINOS ON PORCELAIN AND ON GLASS, 
 
 also a large Assortment of 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHS, 
 
 tf [aiiJxiQ 
 
 including the complete Collections of the various Public Galleries, 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R, M‘CracRen, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 Correspondents in the United States, Messrs, Keller & Lxngg, 97, Reade 
 Street, New York. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 HOTEL ENGLISCHER HOF. 
 
 FIRST-RATE FAMILY HOTEL, 
 
 Well situated and close to the Telegraph, and Post-office, English 
 Church, Palace, and Royal Theatres. 
 
 New and elegantly Furnished with every modern Comfort. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS. 
 
 Carriages and Omnibuses. 
 
 Fixed. Moderate Prices. 
 
 Proprietor, F. E. SITZLER. 
 
1873, 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 63 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 HOTEL DU RHIN. 
 
 W ELL situated near the Railway Station; entirely re-furnished by 
 the new Proprietor, Mr. C. HAYMANN ; with all the comfort 
 and luxury of modern times. 100 Rooms and Saloons ; well-furnished 
 Apartments for Families and Single Gentlemen. Beautiful Dining 
 Room, decorated in the Renaissance style. Large Refreshing Room. 
 Billiard Room, Table d’Hote at 1 and 5 o’clock. “ Dinners a la Carte ” 
 at any hour. English, French, and Foreign Newspapers. Carriages in 
 the Hotel, Omnibus to meet every Train, 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 BRITISH LIBRARY & READING ROOMS, 
 
 ( Established in 1837 by Mrs. Dor ant), 
 
 26 7, RIVIERA DI CHIAJA, 
 
 MURRAY’S GUIDES FOR SALE AT THE LONDON PRICES. 
 BAEDEKER’S AND OTHER GUIDES. 
 
 TAUCHN1TZ EDITIONS, 
 
 The HEADING BOOMS are supplied with the leading English , American^ 
 German , French , and Italian Journals. 
 
 ANNEXED 
 
 ENGLISH AND AMERICAN BANK, 
 
 GEORGE GIVALLERI, 
 
 BANK BILLS, CIRCULAR NOTES,' AND LETTERS OF CREDIT 
 
 cashed on London and Paris. 
 
 WORKS OF ART~AND LUGGAGE 
 
 warehoused, and forwarded to all parts of the world. 
 
 Correspondents j Messrs. CHARLES CARR & Co., 14, Bishopsgate St. Within, 
 in London { Messrs. OLIVIER & CO., 37, Finsbury Square. 
 
 NEUCHATEL. 
 
 HOTEL DE BELLE VUE. 
 
 ESTABLISHED and managed by the Proprietor, Mr. Albert 
 J-i Elskes — This very comfortable first-class Hotel, delightfully situated on the 
 banks of the Lake, is the only one in the town commanding an entire view of the 
 Alps from Mont Blanc to the summit of the Appenzell. It is so constructed as to 
 afford the greatest tranquillity, which, combined with careful attendance, renders 
 the Hotel a most desirable residence for Families, 
 
 Reduced Brices for Protracted Stay . 
 
 Pension from the 15th of October till the 15th of May. 
 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 C>4 
 
 /NICE. 
 
 HOTEL DE LA GRANDE BRETAGNE. 
 
 Miuo n - .. ■ >ii ; B ^ i inaoinf) 
 
 JAJEtT )IN PUBLIC, 2 
 
 (Limited Company.) 
 
 FULL SOUTH. 
 
 J. LAVI T, Manager. 
 
 FIRST-GLASS and WELL-KNOWN HOTEL. 
 
 Central Position, splendid View of the Sea, and Public 
 
 Garden. 
 
 Charges very moderate, and affixed in each Koom. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE. (One of the Best at Nice.) 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel at the arrival of all Trains. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 65 
 
 NICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL PARADIS. 
 
 (FULL SOUTH. Situated in the most healthy 
 position.) 
 
 Highly spoken of for its great Comfort and 
 excellent Cooking, 
 
 REGULAR FIXED CHARGES. 
 
 VERY PUNCTUAL AND CIVIL ATTENDANCE. 
 
 LARGE HANDSOME DINING HALL 
 SiSfiflilf, 
 
 Ladies’ Coffee Room. Reading Rooms. Smoking Room. 
 Baths-Room on each floor. 
 
 Private Dining-rooms attached to the Grand Apartments. 
 
 Omnibus at the arrival of all Trains. 
 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
 
 %* This Hotel is frequented by the English Nobility and Gentry, 
 
 For farther particulars address the Manager, 
 
 Mr. G. RIESTERER, 
 
88 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 NORWAY. 
 
 A PBACTICAL GBAMMAB, with Exercises in the Lan- 
 guage, for TRAVELLERS AND SPORTSMEN in NORWAY. 
 
 By JOHN Y. SARGENT, M.A., Magdalen College, Oxford, 
 
 Rivingtqns, 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 RED HORSE HOTEL 
 
 (Rothes Ross), 
 
 Proprietor : M. P. GALIMBERTI. Manager: M. BAUER. 
 
 T HIS excellent old-established Hotel, situated in one of the best quarters of the 
 town, is well adapted for Tourists and Families making a visit to Nuremberg of 
 some duration, and who will find every conceivable comfort and convenience, 
 Table-d’Hote at 1 P.M., and Private Dinners at all hours. The Establishment 
 will be found well worthy of the renown and patronage it has enjoyed from English 
 travellers of the highest rank during many years. 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 HOTEL DE B AY IE RE 
 
 (BAYERISCHER HOP). 
 
 T HIS old-established, first-class, and best situated Hotel, in the 
 centre of the town, close to the river, contains suites of apartments and 
 single rooms, 100 Bed-rooms and Sitting-rooms, all elegantly furnished in the 
 new style. It is patronised by the most distinguished families, and has all the 
 accommodation of an Hotel of the first rank. English Divine Service during the 
 season. Foreign newspapers. Carriages in the Hotel. Omnibus to and from each 
 train. Moderate and fixed prices. 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 HOTEL CENTRAL, 
 
 TT'EPT by L. GRANDI, Proprietor, Corse Vittorio Emanuele, No. 355, near 
 JY the Post and Telegraph Offices, and the Principal Theatre. Beautiful situation over- 
 looking the Sea. Large and small Apartments for Families and Single Travellers, all very clean 
 and at moderate charges. Table d'HGte. “ Restaurant/* Boarders taken at 8 and 9 francs 
 per day. English spoken, 
 
 PALLANZA (Italy). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL PALLANZA, 
 
 ( Opposite the Borromean Islands ,) 
 
 M. G. SEYSCHAB, Proprietor. 
 
 A First-class Hotel with every desirable comfort, a great choice of Bed and Sitting-rooms, 
 all well furnished ; large Conversation-room, Reading and Music-room. English Church 
 Service daily in the Hotel. Magnificent position with view upon the three branches of the • 
 Lake Maggiore and the Chain of Mountains of the Simplon. Large beautiful Garden with 
 Baths in the Lake. The Hotel has an exceptional situation for visitors for the two Seasons. 
 Pension in Winter at very moderate prices. In Winter the Hotel Is heated. The Central | 
 Office of the Swiss Diligences is in the Hotel. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 67 
 
 HOTEL DE LA "eEANDE-BRETAGNE, 
 
 14, Rue Caumartin.— OLIVIER, Proprietor. 
 
 VUE INTERIEURE. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated in the centre of the finest part of Paris, near the 
 Boulevards and new Opera House. Conversation, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Two 
 large Court-yards with Garden. Rooms on the ground, first and second floors, from 3 to 
 5 frs. Apartments for Families. Celebrated Cuisine and Cellar. Dinners at 4 frs. and 
 a la carte . Advantageous arrangements for a protracted stay. 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 HOTEL I) ’ANGLE TERRE, 
 
 ST. ISAAC’S SQUARE, 
 
 (Gostmitza Angleterre, Issakofski Sabor.) 
 
 H. SGHMITZ, Proprietor. 
 
 THIS new and well-conducted Hotel, situated in the centre 
 
 of the City, facing the St. Isaac’s Church, near the Post-office, the Royal 
 Palaces and Public Buildings, affords large suites of well-furnished Apartments 
 for Families, and comfortable and airy Bedrooms for Single Gentlemen. A large 
 Dining-room where Dinners are served from Three till Seven o’Clock, from 
 one rouble and above. A well-furnished Reading-room. The 1 Times,’ and 
 other English, French, and German Newspapers. 
 
 HOT AND COLD BATHS, TUBS , AND SITTING BATHS, 
 Guides and Servants speaking English. 
 
 Omnibuses at the Stations, and Steamboats near Landing-places from Stockholm 
 
 and England. 
 
 THE QUEEN’S MESSENGERS FREQUENT THIS HOTEL. 
 
 NB, — Misses Benson s Hotel no longer exists,) 
 
68 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 GIUSEPPE ' ANDBEONI, 
 Sculptor in Alabaster and Marble and Objects 
 of Fine Art, 
 
 NO. 872 , VIA SANTA MARIA, 
 
 WHERE 
 
 A GREAT ASSORTMENT OF FINE ARTS, SCULPTURE, 
 CAN BE SEEN. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R, M^racken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C., London. 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 GOLDEN ANGEL HOTEL, 
 
 (ZUM GOLDENEN ENGEL,) 
 
 ZELTNER STREET, OLD TOWN, 
 
 Mr. F. STIGKEL , Proprietor. 
 
 This Hotel is situated at no great distance from the Terminus of the Railway to Dresden 
 and Vienna, the Post and Telegraph Office, the Custom House, the Theatre, and other public 
 buildings, and is in the centre of the Old Town. Warm and Cold Baths. English and 
 French Newspapers taken in. 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 WILLIAM HOFMANN, 
 
 BOHEMIAN GLASS MANUFACTURER 
 
 TO HL^ MAJESTY THE EMPEROR OF AUSTRIA, 
 
 HOTEL BLUE STAR, 
 
 Recommends his great assortment of Glass Ware, from his own Manufactories in 
 Bohemia. The choicest Articles in every Colour, Shape, and Description, are sold, 
 at the same moderate prices, at his Establishments. 
 
 Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. MCCRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E,C. 
 
 Goods forwarded direct to England, America, &c. 
 
 With Portraits, Crown 8vo., 12s. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF THE EARLY ITALIAN PAINTERS, and ; 
 
 I” of the Progress of Painting in Italy, from Qtmabue to Bassano. By 
 Mrs. Jameson. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1S7& MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERtlsER, . 69 
 
 ROME. 
 
 J. P. SHEA, 
 
 ENGLISH HOUSE-AGENT, 
 
 FORWARDING AGENT 
 TO H.R.H. THE PRINCE OF WALES, 
 
 11, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. 
 
 At this Office persons applying for 
 
 Large or Small Furnished Apartments 
 
 invariably obtain correct and unbiassed information on all matters connected with 
 
 Lodging-Houses, Boarding-Houses, 
 
 and 
 
 Household Management, 
 
 while 
 
 Low and Fixed Charges 
 
 for practical services offer safe and satisfactory assistance to Proprietor and Tenant, 
 as testified by the increasing confidence of English and American Travellers 
 since the opening of the establishment in 1852 . 
 
 Plans and Lists of Apartments sent by Post 
 
 to persons w r ho wish to secure accommodation, or avoid inconvenience at the 
 approach of Carnival or the Holy Week. 
 
 AS CUSTOM-HOUSE AGENT, 
 
 Mr. Shea clears and warehouses 
 
 Baggage and other effects 
 
 for travellers who, to avoid the expense (if quick transit, send their things by sea or 
 luggage-train, directed to his care. 
 
 He also superintends the 
 
 Packing of Works of Art and other Property 
 
 Intrusted to his care, and the forwarding of the same to England, &c. ; and being 
 Agent for Messrs. Burns and Mclvers* Italian line of steamers, can offer 
 facilities on the freight of packages between Italy and England* 
 
 CORRESPONDENTS- 
 
 ilONDON ....Messrs. J. & R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, £.Q> 
 
 Messrs. CHAS. CARR & CO„ 14, Bishopsgate Street Within. 
 
 BOULOGNE s. M Messrs. L. BRANLY & CO. 
 
 PARIS .....Mr. C. GUEDON, 20, Rue Pierre‘Levee. 
 
 MARSEILLES Messrs. GIRAUD FRERES, 44, Rue Sainte. 
 
 FLORENCE Messrs. HASKARD & SON. 
 
 NEW YORK Messrs. AUSTIN, BALDWIN* & CO., 72, BtoddWay* 
 
 BOSTON Messrs. WELLS, FARGO, Sc CO. 
 
70 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ROME. 
 
 L. A. GrALLANDT, 
 
 7 and 8, PIAZZA DI SPAGNA, 
 
 ROME, 
 
 MANUFACTURER of MOSAICS. 
 
 Jlm-bcpr to gull. toe IVuvcf of Jtoto. 
 
 ES TABLISH ED 18 50. 
 
 Foreigners are respectfully solicited to visit this Establish- 
 ment, where they will find a 
 
 RICH and VARIED ASSORTMENT of TABLES, PICTURES, 
 ORNAMENTS SET IN GOLD, &c., &c. 
 
 PRIZE MEDALS : — London, 1862. Paris, 1855. 
 
 RHEINFALL. NEU HAUSEN, SCHAFFHAUSEN. 
 
 Ss% 
 
 HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOE. Peopeietok, Me. WEGENSTEIN. 
 T^HE HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOE, known to English visitors as 
 
 J- one of the best Hotels in Switzerland, has been greatly enlarged since last year, and is 
 now a splendid first-rate establishment. 
 
 The SCHWEIZERHOF is situate opposite the celebrated Falls of the Rhine, and sur- 
 rounded by a fine park and garden. The position is unsurpassed, the eye ranging a distance 
 of above 180 miles— a panoramic view including the whole range of the Swiss Alps and the 
 Mont Blanc. Healthy climate. Church Service. Preserved Trout Fishing. Prices moderate. 
 Pension. Hotel Omnibuses at Neuhausen and Schaffhausen. 
 
 
iS?3. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 71 
 
 ROTTERDAM. 
 
 HOTEL IDE L’EUROPE. 
 
 I ^HIS HOTEL has been newly established this year, is situated in the 
 
 - centre of the town, just opposite the Exchange, Post-office, Telegraph-office, the new 
 Railway Station, and close to all the Landing-places of the different steamers. The rooms 
 are well and comfortably furnished, so that Travellers and Families will find every comfort, 
 combined with the most civil attendance and moderate charges. Table d’Hote at half-past 4, 
 and Dinners a la Carte at any time. English, French, and German Newspapers are kept, 
 and all these languages are spoken in the Hotel. Carriages are on the premises, and attend all 
 Ifalns and Boats. The Proprietor, Mr. C. BARKER, will spare no pains to merit the 
 patronage he receives. 
 
 ROTTERDAM. 
 
 H. A. KRAMERS, importer of foreign books. 
 
 Mr. Murray's ‘ Handbooks for Travellers,’ Bradshaw’s Monthly Eailway Guides, Bae- 
 deker’s ‘ Reischandbiicher,’ and Hendschel’s ‘ Telegraph,’ always in Stock. English , French, 
 and German Books imported Weekly, and a great variety of New Books kept in Store. 
 
 47, GELDERSCHE KADE. 
 
 SEVILLE (SPAIN). 
 
 jJOTEL I)E LONDRES. — This highly recommended Hotel 
 
 is situated on the Plaza Nueva, the most central and beautiful part of this 
 delightful city. Travellers will find here every accommodation for Families and 
 Single Gentlemen. Splendid Dining-room, fine Sitting-rooms, clean Bed-rooms, and 
 excellent attendance. French and English Newspapers. Baths, Carriages, &c, 
 English, French, and Italian spoken. 
 
 SPA. 
 
 H OTEL D* YORIL-^This Hotel is one of the oldest in Spa, particularly frequented 
 by English Travellers, and the best in the locality. It is exceedingly well situated in 
 the healthiest and pleasantest part of the town, close to the Casino, the Promenades, and the 
 Boulevard des Anglais. The apartments are comfortable, airy, and command the finest and 
 most varied views of the mountains. The ^mnibus of the Hotel runs regularly to and from 
 the Railway Station, awaiting every Train. “ English, French, and American papers. Table 
 d’Hote at 5 o’clock.— LARDN ER, Proprietor. 
 
 STOCKHOLM. 
 
 0. E. FRITZ E, Bookseller. 
 
 , GUSTAVE ADGEFS fORG (Square), 
 
 (NEXT HOUSE TO THE RYDBERG HOTEL). 
 
 Scandinavian , English , French , and German Boohs . 
 
 TRAVELLING MAPS AND HANDBOOKS. 
 
 Views of Stockholm, and Swedish and Norwegian Peasant 
 Costumes, in Photograph and Lithograph. 
 “BRADSHAW'S RAILWAY GUIDE ” and “HENDSCHEL’S TELEGRAPH.” 
 
 Gi E. FRITZ E, Bookseller, Gustaf, Adolfs Torg, Stockholm. 
 
72 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. Ma f. 
 
 T HUN. 
 
 JEAN KEHRLI STERCHI, 
 
 Swlptor in lEcrnir, 
 
 AND 
 
 MANUFACTURER OF SWISS MODELS AND ORNAMENTS, 
 
 Establishment vis-a-vis the Hotel Belle Vue and at the side of the New Grand 
 Hotel de Thun, in the Bazar des Etrangers, 
 
 For 26 years at the Woodwork Establishment at the Giessbach Falls, 
 eldest son of the founder of said establishment, 
 
 I NVITES the attention of English tourists to his Establishment at the Bellevue 
 Hotel, Thun, where a choice assortment of Swiss Wood Carvings may always 
 be seen. 
 
 Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. & R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, London. 
 
 TREVES, ON THE MOSELLE. 
 
 HOTEL DE TREVES. 
 
 A FIRST -CLASS HOTEL for Families and Gentlemen: 
 
 -fL highly recommended. It is situated in the middle of the Town, and offers 
 to large families and tcurists every comfort and convenience. 
 
 Omnibus and Carriages at the Railway Station and Steamer. 
 
 Moselle Wine of the Best Quality . 
 
 ENGLISH AND FP^XCtt PAPERS. 
 
 TURIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE TURIN. 
 
 Opposite the Arrival Platform of the Porta Nuova Station. 
 
 Branch Establishment of the BebNekhof at Berne and Kraft's Hotel dc Nice at Nice . 
 
 T'HIS newly-erected first-class Hotel, in a central position, is entirely 
 JL kept according to the Swiss principles, and combines the greatest comfort with moderate 
 charges. Heated during the Winter season. Table d’HOte at half-past 5 and 8 o’clock. 
 
 reduced prices for a protracted btat. 
 
 Kept by CONSTANT KllAFT. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 73 
 
 1873. 
 
 TURIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L’EUROPE, 
 
 PLACE CHATEAU, 
 
 Opposite the King’s Palace. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 OLD REPUTATION, 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 CARLO PONTI, 
 
 OPTICIAN AND PHOTOGRAPHER, 
 
 WHO gained the Prize Medal at the International Exhibition of 1862, and whose 
 House is acknowledged to be the first of the kind in the City, is the Invertor of 
 the Optical Instrument known under the name 
 
 M1GALETHOSCOPE, 
 
 (first called Alethoscope), the most perfect instrument for magnifying photographs 
 and showing them with the effects of night and day. His 
 
 ISOPERISCOPIC SPECTACLES 
 
 gained Medals at the Exhibitions of Paris and Padua, and were pronounced by the 
 scientific bodies to be superior in principle to all others, as well as being more 
 moderate in price. 
 
 His Photographic Establishment is in the Piazza San Marco, No. 52, near the Cafe 
 Florian; and his Optical Establishment at Riva dei Sehiavoni, No. 4180, near the 
 Albergo Reale. 
 
 Correspondents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'Cracken, 38, Queen Street, 
 Cannon Street, E.C. 
 
74 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 VENICE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 (Formerly REGINA D’INGHILTERRA.) 
 
 ROBERT ETZENSBERGER, Manager. 
 
 npHE largest and finest Hotel in Venice, most conveniently 
 situated near the Piazza S. Marco and the principal Theatres. 180 Bed- 
 rooms, Private Sitting-rooms, Reading-room, with Piano, Billiard-room, and 
 Smoking-room. Baths of every description, great comfort and cleanliness. Service 
 on the Swiss system, Charges more moderate than in any other first-class Hotel, 
 
 Arrangements for Pension, 
 
 English spoken by all the Servants, 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 Stock- Company for Hotels and Bathing Establishments 
 at Vienna, 
 
 nnHE HOTEL BRITANNIA, Vienna, Stadt, Schillerplatz 4, OPENED 
 
 A on May 1st, ISIS. The Hotel Britannia (First-Class Hotel) is situate with the grand 
 front towards the Schillerplatz, with the side fronts towards the Elisabeth and tbe Nibelun- 
 genstrasse, next to the Opernring, in the centre and in the most fashionable part of Vienna. 
 It contains 200 Rooms, furnished with every luxury and comfort; Dining, Music, and 
 Reading Rooms ; Baths, Elevator, &c. 
 
 CARL JUNG, Manager, 
 
 Purveyor to the Court of Prussia, formerly Leaseholder of the Cursaal at Wiesbaden. 
 
 N,B.™~Piooms from four florins a day and upwards , 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 Stock-Company for Hotels and Bathing Establishments 
 at Vienna. 
 
 rj 'HE HOTEL DONAU, II. Nordbahnstrasse No. 26, Vienna, OPENED 
 
 A on April 27th, 1873. The Hotel Donau (First-Class Hotel) is situate on the Praterstern, 
 opposite the Nordbahn, and only a few steps from the Nordwestbabn Terminus, in the 
 immediate vicinity of the Exposition Grounds, Telegraph and Tramway Station. 400 elegant 
 Rooms, furnished with all comfort and modern improvements. 
 
 CARL TRAUT, Manager, 
 
 Purveyor to the Court of Prussia, formerly Restaurant in the Cursaal at Wiesbaden. 
 Remark— All the rumours of exorbitant Prices at the Vienna Hotels are incorrect; ther e 
 are Rooms at the Hotel Donau from 2 florins 50 kr. a day and upwards, at the disposal 
 Guests. 
 
75 
 
 1873. MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 V E V A Y. '(Switzerland). 
 
 TXOTEL MOOSEJR, at Chcmenin. near Vevoy, kept by Mr. 
 
 J. NUSSBAUMER. Newly-built First-class Hotel, only ten minutes* walk 
 from Vevey. Beautifully situated in the middle of a large park. Coi^forf^tble 
 Apartment's for Families and Single Gentlemen. Baths. Billiard-room. 
 
 Pension the whole year. 4 * Moderate Charges. 
 
 v i e h y. ^ 
 
 View of the Grand Hotel .des Amhassadeurs. ; ,at Vichydes-Ba.ins. 
 
 n BAND HOTEL DES AMBASSADEUBS, Situated on 
 
 ^ the Park —This magnificent Hotel is now one of the first in the town. It is managed 
 in the same style as-tbe largest and best hotels- on the Continent. By its exceptional situa- 
 tion, the house presents three fronts, from which the most beautiful views are to be had ; and 
 from its balconies is heard the excellent Band of the Casino. The Hotel contains 200 Rooms, 
 20 Saloons, a Saloon for Banquets, capable of holding 500 persons, and a large and fine Dining- 
 room, 200 covers, a Smoking-room, and 2 Billiard Tables. Large and small Apartments lor 
 Families. English and Spanish spoken. Interpreter. The Omnibus of the Hotel awaits 
 all the Trains at the Station. 
 
 VICHY. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU PARC, j 
 
 Proprietor, Mr. GERMOT, 
 
 Opposite the Baths and the Parke 
 
 in Paris and London, Vichy lias its Grand Hotel. The 
 Grand Hotel du Parc of Vichy, for comfort., elegance, and convenience, is 
 equal to any of the large Hotels of Paris or London. 
 
 SUITES OP APARTMENTS FOR FAMILIES. 
 
 *F. ^ 
 
76 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 The most extensive Warehouse for Bohemian White and Coloured 
 
 Crystal Glass . 
 
 J. & L. LOBMEYR, 
 
 GLASS M A N U F A C T U R E S3, 
 
 No. 13, KARNTHNERSTRASSE. 
 
 All kinds of Bohemian White and Coloured Crystal Glass; Table, Dessert, and 
 other Services ; Vases, Candelabras, Chandeliers, Looking-glasses; Articles of Luxury, 
 in Crystal Glass, mounted in Bronze, and in Carved Wood. They obtained the 
 Prize Medal at the International Exhibitions of 1862 and 1867. 
 
 The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. — The English 
 language is spoken. 
 
 Their Correspondents in England, Messrs. J. and R. McCracken, No. 38, 
 Queen Street, Cannon Street, E,C„ .London, will transmit all orders with the 
 greatest care and attention. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 c 
 
 ■ • VJ 
 
 AUGUST KLEIN, 
 
 By Appointment Purveyor to the Prince of Wales and to the Imperial 
 Courts of Austria and France. 
 
 THE LARGEST MANUFACTORY OF VIENNA 
 
 LEATHER AND BRONZE GOODS. 
 
 Mr, Klein wishes to call attention to his articles, which are not to bo 
 equalled in novelty and variety. 
 
 MANUFACTORY. 
 
 VIENNA. — Neubau, Andreasgasse, No. 6* 
 
 DEPOTS. 
 
 VIENNA.— Stadt Graben, 20. 
 
 PARIS. — 6 & 8, Boulevard des Capucines. 
 
 LONDON. — 75, Wimpole Street, W. 
 
 Wholesale. 
 
 N.B, — Free admission is granted to all Persons wishing to visit the Manufactory. 
 
1873. 
 
 MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 77 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 Bohemian Glass and. Bronze Warehouse. 
 
 HEINRICH ULLRICH, 
 
 LATE WILLIAM HOFMANN, 
 
 GLASS AND BRONZE MANUFACTURER, 
 
 No. 3, LUGECK, 
 
 Recommends his great assortment of Glass and Bronze Ware in the choicest articles, in 
 every colour, shape, and description, specially adapted to the English and American taste, 
 from his own manufactories in Bohemia and Vienna (for the Bronze). 
 
 The prices are fixed at very moderate and reasonable charges. 
 
 He received at the last Paris Exhibition the Silver Medal for excellent execution and very 
 cheap prices. 
 
 HEINRICH ULLRICH has a branch Establishment during the Summer Season at 
 
 BADEN-BADEN, 
 
 No. 4, SOPHIEN STREET, near the ENGLISH HOTEL, 
 
 where will always be found an extensive selection of the newest articles from his Vknna 
 warehouse. 
 
 The English language Is spoken and every information given with pleasure to travellers. 
 He sells only real Bohemian Glass, and not Hungarian Glass, which in many 
 places is sold in substitution. 
 
 Agents in Paris and New York. 
 
 Agents in London, Messrs. J. and R. M'CRACKEN, 38, Queen Street, Cannon Street, E.C. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 HOTEL 
 
 “ARCHDUKE CHARLES.’’ 
 
 Kept by M. JOSEF ZIMMERMANN, 
 
 The new Proprietor. 
 
 rpHIS First-class Hotel, situated in the best part of Vienna, 
 has been greatly improved in modern comfort, recherche 
 cuisine and excellent service at moderate charges. The 
 Landlord will spare no trouble to maintain its ancient repu- 
 tation, and to give satisfaction to the travelling Gentry and 
 Nobility. 
 
MURRAY’S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 78 
 
 May, 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 BLACK BEAR HOTEL AND BATHS. 
 
 OTTO FREYTAG, Proprietor. 
 
 Scrupulous Cleanliness, Attentive Service, and Moderate Charges. 
 
 Central situation^-close to the Mineral Springs, the Theatre, the Conversation 
 House and the Promenades, . Contains 140 Rooms and Saloons, elegantly furnished, 
 spacious Dining-rooms, Ladies* Parlour, Smoking-room, and 60 neatly fitted-up 
 Jkthing Cabinets. Table d’Hote at X and 5 o’clock. Exquisite Wines. English, 
 French, and German Papers. 
 
 VJSITOBS BOABDED. 
 
 WI ES BAD EN. 
 
 FOUK SEASONS HOTEL & BATHS. 
 
 PROPRIETOR, DR. ZAIS. 
 
 THIS First-Class Establishment, equal to any on the 
 
 Bhine, is in the best and most delightful situation in the Great Square, 
 opposite the Kursaal, the Theatre, the Promenades; close to the Boiling 
 Spring and the new English Chapel. 
 
 This Hotel is the largest in th§ place, containing a great choice of 
 
 SPLENDID AND COMFORTABLE APARTMENTS 
 
 for Families and Single Travellers ; exquisite Cuisine and first-class Wines, 
 combined with attentive service and moderate charges. 
 
 TABLE D’HOTE at 1 and 5 p.m,, and PRIVATE DINNERS. 
 
 The Bathing Establishment is the best in the Place . 
 
 WORKS ON ART, 
 
 With Illustrations, 3 vols., 8vo., 63s. 
 
 A HISTORY OF PAINTING IN ITALY, from the 2nd to 
 the 14th Century. By J. A. Crowe and G. B. Cavalcaselle. 
 
 Also, by the same Authors, 
 
 A HISTORY OF PAINTING IN NORTH ITALY, 
 
 Venice, Padua, Vicenza, Verona, Ferrara, Milan, Friuli, Breschia, 
 from the 14th to 16th Century. With Illustrations, 2 vols., 8vo., 42s. > 
 
 “ Our authors give great attention to ancient processes of painting, and thus we get from 
 this book many hints on the nature of examples, such as no other kind of information would 
 afford. It would he difficult to overrate the importance of this branch of study ; it enables 
 a critic to speak in a far more conclusive manner as to the nature, .and even the origin of a 
 picture than it would be safe to do on the authority of records alone. This book is a welcome 
 contribution to the library of art.” — Athenceum. 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 
1873, 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 79 
 
 WILDBAP, 
 
 H6tel Klumpp, formerly Hotel de fOurs, 
 
 Mr. W. KLUMPP, Proprietor. 
 
 T HIS First-class Hotel, containing 36 Salons and 170 Bedrooms, a separate 
 Breakfast, a very extensive and elegant Dining-room, new Reading and 
 Conversation as well as Smoking Salons, with an artificial Garden over the river, 
 is situated opposite the Bath and Conversation House, and in the immediate 
 vicinity of the Promenade, 
 
 It is celebrated for its elegant and comfortable apartments, good cuisine and 
 cellar, and deserves its wide-spread reputation as an excellent hotel. Table-d’hote 
 at One aud Five o’clock. Breakfasts and Suppers a la carte. New Billiard Table. 
 
 E|£CHAHGE OFFICE, 
 
 Correspondent of the principal Banking-houses of London for the payment of 
 Circular Notes and Letters of Credit, 
 
 Omnibus of the Hotel to and from each Train , Elegant private carriages , 
 when required , 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 HOTEL BE L’EPEE AU LAC. 
 
 Most beautifully situated in the midst of the town, with a magnificent view over the Alps 
 Rake, and Glaciers, Entirely new and completely restored. 
 
 Proprietor; Oh. FLORAT, 
 
 Principal Features.— Excellent beds, greatest cleanliness, best kitchen, attentive service* 
 moderate prices. German, English, French, Italian and American newspapers, Thc>d 
 languages are spoken in the Hotel, 
 
 E'tnner at every hour , Omnibus at the Station . 
 
 ZURICH. 
 
 HOTEL ET PENSION BELLEVUE 
 AU LAC- 
 
 Proprietors : E3EIMELL & POHL. 
 
 ^HIS splendid and admirably conducted establishment, situ- 
 ated on the shore of the Lake, commands, by its unsurpassed position, the best view of 
 the Lake, Alps, and Glaciers, and offers, by its superior internal arrangements, the comforts 
 of Private Apartments and Public Parlours, with careful, civil, and quiet attendants— all 
 desirable attractions to travellers as a place of residence or of temporary sojourn. 
 
 Pension at reduced prices, and arrangements made for Families from October to July. 
 
 Notice. — 125 Apartments facing the Lake. 
 
80 
 
 MURRAVS HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 1873. 
 
 ESTABLISHED 1883. 
 
 THE ORIGINAL GUIDE & TRAVELLERS' DEP&T, 
 
 AND 
 
 passport aitb Couriors’ ^eitqr, 
 
 LEE & CARTER, 
 
 440, WEST STRAND, LONDON 
 
 (Nearly opposite the Charing Cross Hotel). 
 
 KNAPSACKS PORTMANTEAUX BAGS 
 
 STIFF OE LIMP. OF ALL PATTERNS. OF ALL KINDS. 
 
 Intending Tourists are respectfully invited to visit this Establishment 
 before making purchases for their journey. 
 
 AN EXTENSIVE STOCK OF TRAVELLERS’ REQUISITES TO SELECT FROM:— 
 
 Guide Books (in pocket bindings). 
 Maps and Plans of all Parts. 
 Foreign Dictionaries. 
 Dialogues and Grammars. 
 Polyglott Washing Books. 
 Journals and Diaries. 
 
 Pocket Books and Note Cases. 
 Purses, Sov. and Nap. Cases. 
 Money Belts and Bags. 
 Writing Cases and Blotters. 
 Ink Stands and Light Boxes. 
 Foreign Stationery. 
 
 Travelling Chess Boards, &c. 
 Knives, Scissors, & Corkscrews. 
 Barometers & Thermometers. 
 Field Glasses & Compasses. 
 Eye Preservers and Spectacles. 
 Railway Rugs and Straps. 
 
 Hat Cases and Bonnet Boxes. 
 Luggage Straps and Labels. 
 Travelling Lamps. 
 
 Camp Candlesticks. 
 
 Flasks and Drinking Cups. 
 Sandwich Cases. 
 
 Luncheon Baskets. 
 
 Dressing Cases & Housewives. 
 Soap and Brush Boxes. 
 
 Sponge and Sponge Bags. 
 Baths and Air Cushions. 
 Waterproofs & Foot Warmers. 
 Camp Stools and Leg Rests. 
 Portable Closet Seats. 
 
 Etnas for boiling water. 
 Combs, Brushes, and Mirrors. 
 Glycerine and Insect Powder. 
 Door Fasteners, &c., &c., &c. 
 
 London: Printed by William Clowes and Sons, Stamford Street and Charing Cross, 
 
G*“X©2»^ 
 
MURRAY’S HOME AND COLONIAL LIBRARY. 
 
 A Series of Works selected for their acknowledged interest and ability of the Authors, 
 and adapted for all circles and classes of Readers. Post Svo. Published at 2 s. and 
 8 s. Gd. each, and arranged under two distinctive heads as follows ; — 
 
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 HISTORY, BIOGRAPHY, AND HISTORIC TALES. 
 
 1. THE SIEGE OF GIBRALTAR. By 
 John Drinkwater. 2 s. 
 
 3. THE AMBER-WITCH. Translated 
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 B. CROMWELL AND BUNYAN. 
 
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 4 LIFE OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. 
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 5. CAMPAIGNS AT WASHINGTON. 
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 C THE FRENCH IN ALGIERS. From 
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 11. THE TWO SIEGES OF VIENNA. 
 
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 August, 
 
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 list, 1:72. £ 
 
MuKKAX'O niiiNi/JDUUAO. 
 
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