t .W'M *,L' *&* E Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://archive.org/details/travelsinasiaminOOchan TRAVELS ASIA MINOR: ?7J : O R AN ACCOUNT OF A TOUR MADE AT THE EXPENSE OF THE SOCIETY O F DILETTANTI. By RICHARD CHANDLER, D. D. FELLOW OF MAGDALEN COLLEGE, AND OF THE SOCIETY OF ANTIQJJARIES. JUVAT INTEGROS ACCEDERE FONTES, A T Q_U EHAURIRE LUCRE T. THE SECOND EDITION. LONDON: M. DCC. LXX. VI. Sold by J. Do dsl ey, J. Robson, T. Cadell, P. Elmsly, and G. Robinson, London; and by D, Prince, Oxford. (Bnttxcn in tfje $an*15oofc of tfjc Compang of ^tatjoncrst. TO THE SOCIETY O F DILETTANTI. MY LORDS AND GENTLEMEN, THE relation of a Journey into a re- mote Country, performed at your ex- penfe, naturally claims the honour of your Patronage, on its being fubmitted to gene- ral infpe&ion. Indeed, Juftice requires that the Author mould point out the Sources of his Intelligence j and, if information or amufement remit from his Undertaking, that the approbation of the Public mould be referred principally to his Employers. But befides this motive for addreffing you, the Author is happy in an opportunity a 2, of ( iv ) of avowing the pride and pleafure which he feels in having ferved a Society compofed of fuch illuftrious and diftinguifhed Per- fonages as the Dilettanti 5 and in recording one remarkable inftance of your munificent attention to Letters and the Arts. The Countries, to which his Refearches were particularly directed by your Commit- tee, have .made a moft confpicuous figure in Hiftory. The Changes they have under- gone, with their prefent State and remaining Antiquities, were defervedly regarded as proper Objects of Enquiry. Your Traveller, on his part, was folicitous, while abroad, to execute to your fatisfa&ion his lhare in the Enterprize, which you fo generoufly fup- ported 5 and has fince been affiduous in rendering the materials confided to him not unworthy of the Society, and of a fa- vourable reception from the Curious and Learned. The { v ) The Spirit of Difcovery which prevails in this Nation will ever be reckoned among its moft honourable Characteriftics ; and when the various Attempts, to which it has given rife, (hall be enumerated, and their produce examined, This, it isprefumed, will be found of no inconiiderable value, but will receive its portion of Praife, and reflecl: fome luftre on the name of the Society of Dilettanti. I have the honour to be, with the greatefc refpect. and deference, My Lords and Gentlemen, Tour moft obliged and moft obedient humble Servant^ RICHARD CHANDLER, PREFACE. ~^HE following Work cannot perhaps be more fuitably prefaced than with the Inftru&ions of the Committee of Dilettanti, which the Author has the leave of the Society to lay before the Public ; and with a fuccinct Account of the Materials, which the Tour produced. « INSTRUCTIONS for Mr. Chandler, " Mr. Revett, and Mr. Pars. WHEREAS the Society of Dilet- tanti have refolved, that a Per- ( fon or Perfons, properly qualified, be fent with 1 fufflcient Appointments to fome Parts of the Eaft, t in order to colledt Informations, and to make Ob- 1 fervations, relative to the antient State of thofe { Countries, and to fuch Monuments of Antiquity * as are ftill remaining ; and the Society having fur- * ther refolved, that a Sum, not exceeding Two * Thoufand Pounds, be appropriated to that Pur ( pofe ; and having alfo appointed You to execute 4 their Orders on this Head ; We, the Com- c mittee entrufted by the Society with the Care c and Management of this Scheme, have agreed ' upon the following Inftru&ions for Your il Direction viii PREFACE. " Direction in the Difcharge of that Duty to which " You are appointed. i. £< You are forthwith to embark on Board the " Anglicana, Captain Stuart, and to proceed to 11 Smyrna, where You will prefent to Conful Hayes " withftanding continue to purfue Mr. Chandler's " Plan, 'till they receive our further Orders for their « Condud. " Given under Our Hands, at the Star and Garter, this Seventeenth Day of May, 1764. CHARLEMONT. ROB. WOOD. THO. BRAND. WM. FAUQUIER. JAMES STUART, MIDDLESEX. LE DESPENCER. J. GRAY. BESSBOROUGH. It xii PREFACE. It may be proper to mention here, that Mr. Re- vet t had given fatisfactory evidence of his abilities as an Archited in a Work entitled Ruins of A- thens ; which it will pleafe the lovers of antient ele- gance to know is ftill carrying on by his companion and fellow-labourer Mr. Stuart. Mr. Pars, a young Painter, was recommended by his promiiing talents ; andjuftifled the hopes conceived of him. He has lately publimed a Set ofViews in Switzerland, being part or a Collection made for the Right Honourable Lord Vifcount Palmerston; and is now preparing to ftudy at Rome with a ftipend from the Society of Dilettanti. The diligence of thefe Gentlemen was manifefted in a large number of Plans, Views, and Drawings, now in the poiTeilion of the Society ; many of them taken in the Tour related in the enfuing Volume ; and the remainder in Greece, particularly at Athens, where we relided feveral Months, and where I made a very choice Collection of antient Marbles, now likewife in the poiTeilion of the Society Soon after our return the Society generouily or- dered, that a Specimen of thefe labours mould be engraved and printed at their expenfe ; and to this Work, which they permitted to be publifhed, en- titled IONIAN A N T I QJV I T I E S, the Reader is fometimes referred in the following Vo- lume. The Preface was written by the late excel- lent Mr. Wood, the Editor of the Ruins of Pal- myra PREFACE. xm myra and Balbec, who alfo drew up our Inftruc- tions ; the Account of the Architecture by Mr. Re- vett ; and the hiftorical part by the Relater. All the remaining Views have been finifhed by Mr. Pars; and Mr. Revett is employed by the Society to com- plete the Drawings of Architecture. The other Materials were a Book of Infcriptions and a Journal of our Tour, which the Society were pleafed to bellow on me, to be examined at my leifure and publifhed. The Infcriptions, many of which are uncommonly curious and antient, have been lately printed in a feparate Volume ; it having been judged expedient to detach them from the Journal. The learned Reader is referred to that Collection for fuch of them as are connected with the following Work. The Journal confifting of two parts, one of which relates to Asia Minor, the other to Greece, is now offered to the Publick. No labour has been fpared in it ; the Geography of the Countries is ex- plained, and the narration illuftrated by Maps, Plans, and Charts ; many miftakes are rectified, and difficulties obviated or removed. The Writer is aware, that he may be afked by the more curious Reader, on what foundation he has mentioned in this volume certain Barrows now ex- tant xiv PREFACE. tant, as thofe of Achilles and other claiTical Heroes ; as alfo his reaibn for fuppofing Niobe to be ftill vifi- ble on Mount Sipylus. The EfTay advertifed at the end of it is partly intended to fatisfy any fuch En- quirer. CON- CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. prOTAGE to the Strait of Gibraltar— Cuflom of the Saiiors — Our paJJ'age through the Strait — Afpecies ofporpoife de- fer ibed — Thejunfct remarkable — Ant lent accounts of it — The caufe. Page i CHAP. II. Voyage continued — Arrive at Genoa — Manner offijhing in the Mole — The City—Wefet fail— At Leghorn. 4 CHAP III. Sail from Leghorn — In the Archipelago — Ruin of an antient temple on Sunium — Pafs Smyrna — Enter the Hellefpont — Arrive at the inner cajlles — Otyit the Jhip. 7 CHAP IV. Turks defcribed — Reception onfhore — Dinner — The town — The river — Thefte of the two cajlles afcertained — The night. 1 1 CHAP. V. We pafs down the Hellefpont — Land in the Cherronefe of Thrace — The town antiently Eleus — Civility of the go- vernor — The barrow &c. of Protefilaus. 14 CHAP. VI. Sail to Tenedos — Situation and modern hi/lory of the if and — The port and town — The antiquities — Greek recreations — The night — The morning — The conful returns. 16 CHAP. ii CONTENTS. CHAP. VII. Leave Tenedos — An antiquity on the ijland — Fountains — Their conjlruttion — Their ufe — Face of the ijland— Set fail for the Continent. j o CHAP. VIII. Flight of cranes — View of Alexandria Troas — Return to our boat — Mount Athos— Manner of pajjing the night — Way back to the ruins. 22 C H A P. IX. Policy of Alexander the Great — Alexandria Troas — Itsfitua- tion — Forts — Appearance — Remains — The principal ruin — Infcriptions — The AquaduSl — Account of it — Of Atticus Herodes — No churches vifible — The marbles removed. 25 i CHAP. X. An accident — At the vineyard — hi want of provifions — Are joined by the owner of the vineyard — In fear of banditti, 30 CHAP. XI. Invited to Chemali — We fet out on foot — The hot-baths — Arrive at Chemali — Remains of antiquity — Once Colons. 32 CHAP. XII. Coajl by Troas — Enekioi — Giaurkioi or Sige'um — Antiqui- ties at the Church — Account of Sige'um — The famous Si- gean Jlone part of a pilajler — The difpoftion of the lines on it — Of the Greek alphabet — Age of the firjl infcripthn — Age of the fecond—It lies neghcled. 35 CHAP. XIII. At Giaurkioi — Profpecl of the plain — Farther account of it — News of the conful — Our plan dij concerted — The evening — Barrows, of Achilles &c. — At Chomkali. 39 CHAP. CONTENTS. in CHAP XIV. Land in the Cherronefe — A Panegyris or genera/ aJJ'embly of Greeks — 'Their mujicians — Their church — Arrive at the inner cajile — Character of our Turks. 42 CHAP. XV. Our embarrajfment — Arrival of an Englijh Jhip — Its dejlina- tion — We embark for Scio — Quick paffage . 45 CHAP. XVI. Of Scio — Its modern hijiory — Reduced by theTurks — The town — Greek women — Number of dogs — Manner of bathing — The Confu/, &c. — Parties — The Wines — The Lentijcus or mafic tree — The antiquities — Temple of Cybele. 47 CHAP. XVII. Set fail from Scio — Moor in a creek — Weather Cape Kara- bo mu — The Ink at — View of Smyrna from the fea — The Frank freet — The conful's houfe — Live chameleons. 54 CHAP XVIII. Origin of Smyrna — Thefite — Its profperity — Ruined — The citadel repaired — The Mahometan and Chrijlian towns — Succefs of Tamerlane — Smyrna reduced by the Sultans — The prefent town — The citadel — The Stadium and theatre — T he port — The walls — The fepulchres — Conjumption of the old materials — Tomb of St. Polycarp. 57 CHAP. XIX. Smyrna a great mart — The people — Drefs of the women — Buildings Heat, earthquakes, and plague — Burying grounds — Provijions — Mofquitoes or gnats. 64 CHAP. IV CONTENTS. CHAP. XX. Of the ' country — The river Melts — The inner bay — Oi. a — Atittent feptdcbres — Origin of old Smyrna — v of Homer — Of another poet of Smyrna — The — The cave of Homer — The River God. 6S C HAP. XXI. The gulf of Smyrna — Menimen — The river Hermus — The ftraii — The fioals — The plain of the Hermus — The mouth — Of hence — The extremity of the plain — Of Pbocea — Future changes to be expected, y^ C HAP. XXII. Our f — Firji journey from Smyrna — A tendour — Mildnefs of the ic inter at Smyrna — Return of the cranes We prepare for another journey — Rumour of the plague — Cmfrtned — Our embarrafjinent — Our fecond journey — Method. yy CHAP. XXIII. Sca-coaji of Ionia — Four/a reputed Clazomene — The olive- grcves — Vejiiges of an antient bridge — The Agamemnonian baths — Their prefent fate — IJihmus of the Peninfula — The dike cut by Alexander — Villages — The Town of rla. 8 1 C HAP. XXIV. We fearch for Clazomene — Difcover the mole — Pafs over — Thejite — Ifnts — We re-pajs — Origin of Vourla. 86 CHAP. XXV. Of the Kara-bomiotes — Mount Mimas — Night — Arrive at Erythree — The fite — I/lets — Remains. 89 CHAP. CONTENTS. CHAP. XXVI. Of the Peninfula — Chi/me- — Mount Corycus — Mount Mimas — End of the Peninfu/a — At Segigeck — Antiquities — Cranes. 9 2 CHAP. XXVII. Situation of Teos Remains The port, &c. The temple of Bacchus Teos deferted A Venetian Vejfel. 95 CHAP. XXVIII. To Sevri-hiJJ'ar Quarries of marble The town The Dionyfajls, &c. 97 CHAP. XXIX. We arrive at Hypfile The Myonnefus Hypfle ajlrong- hold. 99 CHAP. XXX. Hot waters In the territory of Lebedus Some ruins Lebedus The ijland Afpis The Dionyfajls. 100 CHAP. XXXI. We crofs a torrent Afcend mount Gallefus Arrive at Zille or Claros Remains Of the oracle and temple of Apollo* Of the oracular fountain and cave Of Colo- phon, Notium, and Claros No remains of the tv:o former Wc arrive at Ephefus. 102 CHAP. XXXII. Dijlance of Ephefus from Smyrna To Sedicui- To the fources of a rivtr To Tourbali Of the Turcomans Their booths To the Cayjler Arrive at Aiafaluck — Relation of a journey in 1705. 108 CHAP. CONTENTS. CHAP. XXXIII. Aiafaluck The evening Remains The Cajlle— — The Mofque The Aqucedutt An antient bridge. I 1 2 CHAP. XXXIV. Aiafaluck not Ephefus Tamerlane at Aiafaluck Hifi- tory of the two places confounded Origin of Aiafaluck Thunder -form A flood. 1 1 6 CHAP. XXXV. Ephefus The Stadium The Theatre The Odeum, &c. The Gymnafium A flreet Another A temple Square tower Extent of the City ■ Avenues — Prion a mountain of marble — A place of burial The quarries, &c. 1 1 8 CHAP. XXXVI. Of old Ephefus The City of the Ionians A n oracle Of Androclus The City of Lyflmachus The port Modern hi/lory of Ephefus Its decline— — The pre- fent Ephefians Its deplorable condition. 125 CHAP. XXXVII. The Selenufan lakes A fljhery The Cayjler Road on Gallefus New land Port Panormus The ifland Syrie. 129 CHAP. XXXVIII. Of the temple of Diana The idol Account of it The prie/ls, &c. Self -manifejlat ions of the goddefs An Ephefan decree Remarks. 132 CHAP. XXXIX. The fpot chofen for the temple of Diana Skill of the archi- tects— The new temple Its magnificence — The afylum —The CONTENTS. Til — The Temple not in the city- -Plundered — Its deft ruSl ion unnoticed — The fuppafed fite—A Sibylline prophecy. 1 3 ^ CHAP. XL. We leave Aiafaluck — Road to Scala Nova — Of Phygela — Of Ortygia — The lower ivay to Scala Nova — Changes — Of Scala Nova. 140 CHAP. XLI. We continue our journey — Mount Mycale and Trogilium — At Suki — We pafs Pricne — Perplexed in the plain. 142 CHAP. XLII. The Theatre at Miletus — Infcription on the wall — Other remains — The Mofcjue, &c. — Modem hi/lory of Miletus — Its ant lent greatnefs . 145 CHAP. XLIII. The Aga of Suki — To Ura — To Branchidte — PortPanormus — A water there — Ruin of the Temple of Apollo Didymeus — Other remains. 148 CHAP. XLIV. At the temple — At lira — Ignorance of the Turks — Their huts- — We continue our journey — The confines of Ionia with Caria. 151 CHAP. XLV. Of the Ionians — Their General ajjembly — Panionium — Story of the city He lice. 153 C H A P. XLVI. Weft out from Scala Nova — Separate and lofe our way — Benighted on Mount Mycale — Goat herds — To Changlee — To Panionium-— To Kelibejh. 154 b CHAP. VUl CONTENTS. CHAP. XLVII. At Kelibeftj — Zingari or Gypjies — Women lamenting — Rafter — A phenomenon — Remark. 157 CHAP. XL VIII. 'the citadel of Priene — Defcent from it — Remains of the city — the -wall and gate-ways — taken by Bajazet. 159 CHAP. XLIX. Mount titanus — Rocks in the plain — the Meander — We are entangled on the mountain — Benighted — Arrive at My us. 162 CHAP. L. Of Myus — thefte and remai?is — Graves, &c. — An oratory — Another — Ruined churches and monafteries — Ofthym- bria — Gnats and flies. 164 CHAP. LI. the lake of Myus — An ijlet — A rock in the lake — Another iftet — Another — "Junction of the lake with the Mcea?:der — Altars and niches . \tj CHAP. LII. Fir ft difcovery of Myus — to Merfenet — to Miletus — to Oranduick — the Night — to Suki and Smyrna — Remark on the water courfe in the plain — Account of a journey in 1673 — Remarks on it. J70 CHAP. LIII. the Meander muddy — the bed — Its courfe io the lake — to the $ ea — Change in the face of the region — Its ant lent geography — the ijlands beforeMiletus — the rocks ofOjebaJhd — Increafe of land — Its progrefs unnoticed — Future encroachments. 174 CHAP. CONTENTS. ix CHAP. LIV. We enterCaria — At Ghauzocku — Booths of the Turcomans — lafus — Remains of the city — The fepulchres — Infcriptions — lafian Marbles at Scio — Journey continued. 179- CHAP. LV. Increafe of land — Hillock in a plain — Booths of the Turco- mans — Site of Bargylia — Of Kindye — OfCaryanda — We arrive at Mylafa — The Turkijh play of the Jarrit — Our vi/it to the Aga. 1 83 CHAP. LVI. Of Mylafa — The temple of Augujlus — A column — OfEuthy^ demus — An Arch or gate-way — Other remains- — Afepul- chre — One cut in the rock — Temples of Jupiter — Of the double hatchet. 186 CHAP. LVII. To Efki-biffar — Remains of Stratonicea — Its hi/lory — Mount Taurus — Temples of Hecate and Jupiter — Infer ipt ions — Introduction of tobacco and coffee into Turkey — Anfwer to a query. 191 CHAP. LVIII. From Mylafa to lafus — To Mendelet — A temple — An antient town — OfLabranda and the temple of Jupiter — Infcriptions — The mountain — We re- enter Ionia . 195 CHAP. LIX. We leave Myiis — The mountain by Mendelet — Sources of a river — At Carpufeli — Sepulchres and a Stadium — Other re- mains — Alabanda — The river Harpafus — The Mceander. 198 CHAP. CONTENTS. CHAP. LX. Pococke's journey to Qarpufeli — To Mylafa—-To Efki-hiffar or Stratomcea and places adjacent — To Arabi-hiffar or Alinda. 202 CHAP LXI. Of Guzel-hiff'ar — Intelligence of the plague — The Bajha — Fright of our fanizary—Magnefia — The river Lethceus — The remains — Of Hylce — Dijlance from Ephefus and Tralles. 204 C HAP. LXII. Of Tralles and Nyfa — Characa — Tralles reflored by Auguftus Cafar — Dejlroyed by the Turks — Rebuilt — Of Briula, Majlaura, and Armata. 208 CHAP LXIII. We arrive at Sultan-hijfar — Of Ejki-hijfar — The fuppofed fite of Tralles — Nyfa — Approach to Tralles and Nyfa — The remains of Tralles— -Origin of Sultan-hijfar — Proxi- mity of Tralles and Nyfa — Continue our journey. 211 CHAP. LXIV. Of Antiochia, Cofcinia, and Orthofia — Picenini's rout to Nq/Ii — To feni-foeir — To Geyra — To Ipfili-Hiffar — To Laodicea — Remarks — Pococke's rout to feni-floeir and Geyra — Roads and dijlances of places. 2 1 4 CHAP. LXV. Our journey continued — The Afian meadow — We crofs the Mceander—Carura — Ruin of a bridge — A hot fpring. CHAP. CONTENTS. XI CHAP. LXVI. Our journey continued — 'Temple of Men Cams — Denifli — The Turks uncivilized- — Arrive at Laodicea — Our tent befet — Our Janizary feized Behaviour of an- Aga Thieves The weather. 220 C H A P. LXVII. Oj Laodicea — The Amphitheatre — An infcription — A ruin — TheOde'um — Other remains, and two Theatres — The hill — The rivers — Modern hi/lory of Laodicea. 224 CHAP. LXVIII. We fet out for Pambouk or Hierapolis — Stopped — Behaviour of an Aga — The cliff', &c — Quality of the foil about the Mteander — Hot waters of Hierapolis — Another cliff — Poetical account of the cliff. 228 CHAP. LXIX. Remains of Hierapolis — The Theatre — Antient manner of fitting — life of the hot waters — The pool — The Plu- tonium — Our dif appointment. 231 CHAP. LXX. Of Colo fa? and the Lycus — Rife of the Mceander and the Marfyas — Cel&na — Apamea Cibotos — Courfe oft he Mcean- der — Apamea fubjeSl to earthquakes — Rout of Xerxes into Lydia. 235 CHAP. LXXI. Picenini's journey to Chonos — To Pambouk — Pocockes journey to Chonos Remarks Pocockes journey continued Dinglar, Apamea — Ifiecleh, Celcena. 238 c CHAP. c o :• 7 I N 7 f. : :: a ?. lxxh. :: j~ ' — .*....' ". ". :.' :. »; — r — -----_ --- ;./.-- -S.xrb. r- — Jfcjaw^T'TJhBi* — Bsigfaty — ^fnrnv :-: a ?. Lxxm. -YierkxT Hsrwm — Wemriaa M Afa-jh*Mr :- s: j.s.: :.. .J :_ j c :-: ?. lxxw. . ■ _- ■ — . ■. — . Strabo, p. 138. we TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 5 we were driven out of our way, and our mafls endangered. Light airs and clear weather followed ; the fky blue and fpread with thin fleecy clouds. We had a view of feveral Spanifh towns, and of St. Philip's caflle in the ifla^ of Minorca. We found the days lengthen as we advanced northward ; and the wind, with a bright fun, very cold, coming from the Alps. We flood for Corlicawith a brifk gale and a great fwell, which took us on the weather-fide ; the waves diftindt, vaft, and black ; breaking with white tops. In the night it blew hard. We (hipped feveral large feas, and rolled and tolled prodigi- oufly. The gulf of Lyons almoft equalled in turbulence the bay of Bifcay. We were becalmed on the feventeenth of July off Cape de Melle ; and then had a fine gale, and approached Italy at >the rate of twelve miles an hour. The Pharos of Genoa appeared as a tall pillar, the coaft pidturefque and mountainous, its flopes covered with white houfes, looking from the fea as one conti- nued city. We now regretted, that the evening was near, fear- ing the land-breeze would fpring up, before we could get into the mole. It became hazy along more, and the glorious prof- peel vanished. The breeze ceafed, and the veffel feemed with- out motion. On one of the mountains a bright flame afcended > and round about us, on the water, were feveral fires made by filhermen in their boats, one of which we haled. The fhip glided on toward the fhore, almoft infenfibly, until the land-breeze reached us, fcented with the delicious fragrance of odorous trees and flowering fhrubs. We then fell to the eaftward, to wait for a current, which fets in before morning. The night was ftill and clear. The moon, in its wane, gleamed on the waves and mountains. The coaft was fpangled with lights from the houfes, which were over-topped by that of the Pharos. We could hear diftindlly at intervals the bells of the churches and convents, which founded fweetly foft and penfive. Early the next day we came to an anchor in the port. An Italian proverb affirms, that the Genoefe hzvejea with- out fijh. However from the great demand for that article of diet, 6 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. diet, the water is continually haraffed. We had frequent op- portunities of feeing the method of fiihing within the mole. Several Seines are united and extended fo as to form a large fe- micircle, but much curved at the two extremities. The men then retire to fome diflance, and begin clattering with flicks or hammers on the fides of their boats ; the noife, as is obferved of thunder, making the fifh rife. One, ftationed on the yard- arm of a fhip, takes notice which way they fwim, and gives di- rections, until they are within the net, when they are driven toward the ends, and are foon entangled, or trying from defpair to leap over, fall on a wing, which is faflened to long reeds, and kept floating horizontally, on the furface. The reward of much toil was now and then a few grey mullet. The Thynnus or tunny-hfh was antiently, and is now, taken nearly in this man- ner, but in fhoals, which endanger and often break the nets. We were delighted at Genoa with the magnificent churches, the marble palaces, the pieces of excellent fculpture, and the many noble pictures, which adorn fo profufely that admired city. But this fplendor is contracted by the general poverty and mifery of the people. Beggars peftered us exceedingly ; and a great number of perfons occurred, varioufly, and often moft mockingly deformed, witnefling early violence j nature, when uncontroled, rarely failing to be regular, if not beautiful, in her productions. One evening we faw a man amufe the popu- lace by performing on a flack rope, which croffed the frreet ; and among other extraordinary feats, he hung by the neck, fwinging, and clapping his hands at intervals. We tarried at Genoa until the twenty-fifth of July, when we weighed anchor and got out of the mole in the night. On the fecond day we paffed the ifland Gorgogna, by which were many fail of fmall-craft fiihing under more for anchovies. We were becalmed all night about three leagues from Leghorn. St. Antony was blamed for this delay, and punifhed in effigy, by fome of the failors, who made an image with a piece of wood, which they clothed and threw overboard at the end of a line ; a couple of nails, which were driven in, keeping the head down- wards in the water. He was dragged in this manner, until a breeze TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 7 breeze commenced, when they took him into the flup, with ca- reffes. In the afternoon we moored within the mole. We had been advifed to carry with us money for Our journey in crown-pieces of filver called imperial tallerie, from Leghorn. Mr. Rutherfurd, an Englifh merchant, accepted our bills on a banker in London ; and on our arrival at Smyrna we found that we gained more than five per cent, on the money we had im- ported, not including infurance, freight, and confulage, which by the Anglicana would have amounted to about two per cent. and that drawing on Leghorn from Smyrna would be nine and a hz\f per cent, better, according to the then exchange, than draw- ing directly from Smyrna on London, exclufive of the before- mentioned expences-. We were detained at Leghorn by foul weather, the wind fouth, with thunder, lightening, and rain ; the air thick and hazy. Some fliips, which had put to fea, were forced back again. We went daily on fhore. One evening I was amufed by a quack, who was very familiar with a viper, kiffing and winding it about his head and neck. It remained twifled round the latter, while he harangued the croud on the virtues of his medicines. Among thefe was a pill, on which he expatiated as of lingular efficacy ; and which, he affirmed, polfeiTed the won- derful property to diftinguifh by whom it was taken ; conftant- ly withholding its beneficial operation from all fchifmatics and heretics, particularly the Englifh.. C H A P. III. Sail from Leghorn — hi the Archipelago — Ruin of an antient temple on Sunium — Pafs Smyrna — Enter the Hellefpont — Arrive at the inner cajlles — §>uit the fiip. O N the tenth of Auguft we got out of the mole of Leghorn into the road, and early next morning fet fail with a light and pleafant breeze. In the evening we were becalmed on the eaft. iide of the ifland Cabrera, in view of a fifhing town. A briik gale with rain iifued from clouds refting on the mountains. A calm- 8 TRAVELSinASIAMINOR. calm then followed, after which the wind veered about every moment. We had now left Monte Cbrijio aftern. In the af- ternoon it thundered, and a mod violent fquall overtook us, with rain, which quite obfcured the fky. We had warning given us by a mighty agitation of the waves, and were prepared to re- ceive it. The wind continued very high, and we made great way. In the morning it was fair and almofl calm. We were then in fight of Sardinia. A gentle breeze fpringing up on the evening of the fourteenth of Auguft wafted us by Maritimo, a rocky illand, on which is a fifhing town. The next night we faw many lights on the coafl of Sicily. We failed with a fine gale by Sergentum, a large town on the flope of fome hills. The air was exceedingly hot, and hazy over the land. We were becalmed beyond Malta in a chopping fea, and tolled prodigioufly ; but on Sunday the nine- teenth, a pleafant breeze commenced, which continued to fol- low us Avithout intermiffion quite through the Archipelago or ./Egaean fea. We had feen a few turtle lioating, and this day many porpoifes approached very near us, fome leaping out of the water, fome turning, as if in purfuit of their prey, and darting through it with incredible fwiftnefs. O n the twenty-firft we were in view of the high-land of Modona, which had white clouds hanging over it, in the Morea or Peloponnefus ; and before evening, of the cape named Tac- narum, now Matapan, which is the extremity of a mountain floping gradually to a point, having before it a piked rock. The difk of the fetting fun was indented by the uneven tops of fome remote hills, and the illuminated portion grew lefs and lefs until it appeared as a fmall flar. The next night we fhorten- ed fail, being near land, and the moon riling late. In the morn- ing we approached Cythera or Cerigo. A rock called The Egg, at the well end of the ifland, with The Tivo Brothers, which Hand out in the water, renders the pafs dangerous to fhips in the dark. We failed by Cape Malea, now St. Angelo, the fea almofl fmooth, but the waves fwelling at intervals, with a hollow noife, and feeming to purfue us. We had the fmall ifland of Hydre TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 9 Hydre in view at funfet ; with that called antiently Belbina, sow St. George d'Albora, a-head. The horizon was hazy, and it was the opinion of our failors, that the friendly gale, which had accompanied us fo long, was ftill likely to continue. Our attention had been for fome time agreeably engaged by the clafTical country, which furrounded us, and we were now near Sunium or Cape Colonne and the coaft of Attica. We re- gretted the approach of night, but the wind flackened, and in the morning we could fee the mountains Hymettus and Pentele, and the ifland iEgina, and Calaurea or Poro in the Saronic gulf. At eleven, Augufl the twenty-third, we had a diftincl: view of the ruin of the temple of Minerva Sunias on the promontory, and by the help of a reflecting telefcope could count the number of the columns then flanding. W e failed clofe by the ifland Cea, which was of a parched afpedt, with a few green trees on it fcattered among inclofures, wind-mills, and folitary churches or chapels. One of thefe, de- dicated to St. Elias, ftands on the fummit of a high mountain. We had a briflc fky, and the fea, gently agitated by the wind, refembled a wide ftream ; but the tops of the mountains of An- dros and of Eubcea were enveloped in thick clouds and awful darknefs. We fleered between the two iflands, and had a hue run in the night. The next morning we had pafled Pfyra, corruptly called Ipfera; Scio was on our right hand ; Lefbos or Mitylene on our left ; and the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna not very remote before ux. The plague, as we v/ere informed at Leghorn, having appeared at this place in the fpring, our captain was unwilling to arrive there before it fhould have ceafed, and now refolved to proceed direct ]y to Conftantinople. The gale was fair, and the oppor- tunity too favourable to be neglected, it being common in fum- mer to meet with a contrary wind, and to be detained on the fea, or forced to anchor off Tenedos. We v/ere oppofite Cape Baba or Ledlos, a promontory of M. Ida, in the evening j and had in view Tenedos and Lemnos and the main land both of B Europe io TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. Europe and Afia. We could difcern fires on Lefbos, as before on ieveral iilands and capes, made chiefly by fifhermen and lbepherds, who live much abroad in the air ; or to burn the ftrong italics of the Turky wheat and the dry herbage on the mountains. In the day-time a column of fmoke often afcends, vifible afar. Saturday, Auguft the twenty-fifth, the fun riling beauti- fully behind M. Ida difclofed its numerous tops, and bright- ened the furface of the fea. We were now entering the Helle- fpont, with the Troad on our right hand, and on the left the Cherronefe or peninfula of Thrace. About fix in the morning we were within Sige'um and the oppofite promontory Maftufia. They are divided by a very narrow ftrait. We then palled between the two caftles ere was committed to the governors, whom he appointed ; men of grand ideas, fitted to ferve fo magnificent a mafter. Alexandria Troas was one of eighteen cities, which bore his name. This City was begun by x\ntigonus, and from him firft called Antigonia ; but Lyfimachus, to whom, as a fucceflbr of Alex- ander, it devolved, changed the appellation in honour of the de- ceafed king. In the war with Antiochus it was eminent for its fidelity to the Romans, who conferred on it the fame privileges as the cities of Italy enjoyed. Under Auguftus, it received a Roman colony, and increafed. It was then the only confider- able place between Sigeum and Lecftos, and was inferior to no city of its name but Alexandria in Egypt. 1 Alexandria Troas was featedon a hill, floping toward the fea, and divided from M. Ida by a deep valley. On each fide is an extenfive plain, with water-courfes. The founders, it is pro- bable, were aware, that, like Tenedos, it would derive many advantages from its fituation on the coaft, near the mouth of the Hellefpont. « Strabo, p. 593. D The 26 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. The port of Troas, by which we landed, has a hill rifing round it in a femicircle, and covered with rubbilh. Many fmall granate pillars are ftanding, half buried, and much corroded by the fpray. It is likely the veflels werefaftened to them by ropes. A land-bank at the entrance had cut off the communication with the fea, and the fmaller bafin was dry. The larger had water, but apparently mallow. Its margin was incrufted with fponta- neous fait. Both were artificial, and intended for fmall craft and gallies j fhips of burthen anchoring in the road without the mole. The city wall is ftanding, except toward the vineyard, but with gaps, and the battlements ruined. It was thick and folid, had fquare towers at regular diftances, and was feveral miles in circumference Befides houfes, it has inclofed many magnificent ftru&ures ; but now appears as the boundary of a foreft or neg- lected park. A map belonging to Mr. Wood, and made, as we fuppofed by a Frenchman, in 1726, ferved us as a guide. The author, it is imagined, believed, as other travellers had done, that this was the lite of Troy, or of a more recent city named Ilium, inftead of Alexandria Troas. Confusion cannot eafily be defcribed. Above the more is a hollow, overgrown with trees, near which Pococke faw re- mains of a Stadium or place for races, funk in the ground t and higher up is the vaulted fubftrudtion or bafement of a large tem- ple. We were told this had been lately a lurking-place of ban- ditti ; who often lay concealed here, their horfes tied in rows to wooden pegs, of which many then remained in the wall. It now fwarmed with bats, much bigger in fize than the Englifh, which on our entering, flitted about, innumerable ; and fettling, when tired, blackened the roof. Near it is a fouterrain j and at fome diftance, veftiges of a Theatre and of an Odeum, or Mnjic Theatre. Thefe edifices were toward the cenire of the city. The femicircular fweep, on which their feats ranged, is formed in the hill, with the ends vaulted. Among the rub- bifh, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 27 bifh, which is of great extent, are a few fcraps of marble and of fculpture, with many fmall granate pillars. The principal ruin, which is thatfeen afar off by mariner?, commands a view of the iflands Tenedos and Lemnos, and, on one lide, of the plain to the Hellefpont, and of the mountains in Europe. Before it is a gentle defcent, woody, with inequa- lities, to the fea diftant by computation about three miles. It was a very ample building, and, as we fuppofed, once the Gymnafium, where the youth were inftructed in learning and in the exercifes. It confilts of three open maffive arches, towering amid walls and a vaft heap of huge materials. They are con- structed with a fpecies of ftone, which is full of petrified cockle-fhells, and of cavities, like honey-comb. The latter, it is likely, have occalioned the name ufed, as Pococke relates, by the pealants, Baluke Serai, the palace of honey ; which he thinks may be derived from Baal. The piers have capitals and mould- ings of white marble, and the whole fabric appears to have been incrufted. Some remnants of the earthern fpouts or pipes are vifible. A view of it, which belonged to Mr. Wood, has been lately published.' On one fide is a ruin of brick; and behind, without the city wall, are fepulchres. One of thefe is of the mafonry called Reticulated or Netted. « A city diftinguifhed and nouriihing by Roman favour would not be tardy in paying the tribute of adulation to its bene- factors. The peafant mowed me a marble pedeltal infcribed in Latin, the characters large, plain, and well-formed. We found near this, two other pedeftals, one above half buried in rubbifii, but the Turks cleared the front with their iabres to the eighth line. All three were alike and had the fame infcrip- tion, except fome flight variations. They had been creeled by different cities in honour of Caius Antonius Rufus, flamen or high-prieft of the god Julius and of the god Auguftus. A maim- ed trunk t which we faw, was perhaps one of the ftatues ; and it is probable the bafement before noted belonged to the temple 1 See Eflay on Homer fi Antient Ruins near Troy, Sec. D 2 dedicated a8 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. dedicated to the deities whom he ferved, or to the godd«fs Rome. Thefe marbles are about mid-way between the principal ruin and the beach. A Venetian officer afterwards informed us, that he had removed one of them on board his (hip, then in the gulf of Smyrna, by order of the captain, while they lay at anchor near Tenedos, waiting for the Bailow, whofe time of refidence at Conirantinople was expired. We made diligent fearch for inscriptions, but difcovered, befides the above-mentioned, only a linall fragment of a pedeftal on which the name of Hadrian occurs. An aquaeducl: begins behind the city, not far from the fepul- chres, and is (eon defcending and croffing the country on the fide next the Hellefpont, extending feveral miles. The piers, which we meafured, are five feet nine inches wide ; three feet and two inches thick : the void between them, twelve feet and four inches. The arches are all broken. The hiftory of this noble and once ufeful ftructure affords an illuftrious inftance of imperial and private munificence. An Athenian, Tiberius Claudius Atticus Herodes, prefided over the free cities of Afia. Seeing Troas destitute of commoaious Baths, and of water, except fuch as was procured from muddy wells or refervoirs made to receive rain, he wrote to the emperor Hadrian not to fuffer an antient and maritime city to be deftroyed by drought, but to beftow on it three hundred myriads of drachms for water, especially as he had given far greater fums even to villages. Hadrian readily complied, and appointed him overfeer of the building. The expenfe exceeded feven hundred myriads, 1 and it was reprefented to the emperor as a grievance, that the tribute from five hundred cities had been lavifhed on one in an aquasduct. Herodes, in reply, begged him not to be difpleafed, that having gone beyond his eltimate, he had prefented the overplus of the fum to his fon, and he to the city. ».. We mall have occafion to mention Atticus Herodes again, snd his name will occur often in the account of our travels in « Five hundred myriads amount tp 161458/. 6x. 8and we had reafon to long for the fea-fhore or our vineyard again. The wind in the morning proved high, but we were too impatient Under prefent grievances to tarry at this place, and reiblved to get to -Chomkali, the town we had lately left, and to pafs on by fea to Smyrna. It remained only to purchaie provisions, with utenfils for cooking, and other neceflaries for the voyage, and to engage a boat with proper fervants and an interpreter ; when a meffenger from the beach announced the arrival of a fhip with Englifh colours. We had fcarcely time to congratulate each other on this un- expected news, before the captain, whofe name was Jolly, en- tered the rooni. He informed us that he had failed with his fhip, the Delawar, not many hours fince, from Gallipoli, where the Anglicana had entered not long before ; that he was come to an anchor in the road, all veffels from Conftantinople flopping there to be fearched for contraband goods or fugitive flaves; that he was bound for Cyprus and England, but lhould touch at Scio, from whence we might ealily get to Smyrna. W e were now relieved from our embarraffment. In the af- ternoon we took leave of our late companion, and the Jewifh family, and embarked on board the Delawar. We were followed by a ftately well-dreffed Turk in a boat. The captain, while the hold was examined, entertained him and fome of his officers in the cabbin, with pipes, coffee, and fherbet. When this cere- mony was ended, we fet fail with the wind frefh and fair. The pike of Tenedos appeared over the main-land of Afia. We foon cleared the Hellespont, and paffing by the mouth of the Sca- mander, had a farewell view of a part of the Troad, which de- ferves to be carefully traverfed; which I quitted with all the re- luctance of inflamed curiofity; and which I then hoped we might be able to revint with better fortune from Smyrna. The fatisfac"lion we derived from the fuddert change of our fi- tuation for the better, received great addition from the liberal be- haviour of our new captain, by whom we were elegantly enter- tained, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 47 tained, and after fupper accommodated with clean bedding, on the cabbin-floor, which afforded us much refreshment. The profperous gale continued, and the fhip made great way. We failed by the weftern fide of the ifland Mitylene in the night ; and parting the mouth of the gulf of Smyrna, entered the chan- nel of Scio, and before mid-day caft anchor in the road off the city. CHAP. XVI. Of Scio Its modern hijlory Reduced by the Turks The town — Greek women — Number of dogs — Manner of bath- ing — The Conful &c. — Parties — The Wines — The Lentif- cus or majiic-tree — The Antiquities — Temple of Cybele. THE ifland Chios, now Scio r is by Strabo reckoned nine hundred ftadia, or one hundred and twelve miles and a half, in circuit j and about four hundred ftadia, or fifty miles, from the ifland Mitylene. The principal mountain, called antiently Pe- linasus, prefents to view a long, lofty range of bare rock, re- flecting the fun ; but the receffes at its feet are diligently culti- vated, and reward the hufbandman by their rich produce. The Hopes are clothed with vines. The groves of lemon, orange, and citron-trees, regularly planted, at once perfume the air with the odour of their blolfoms, and delight the eye with their gol- den fruit. Myrtles, and jaflmines are interfperfed, with olive and palm-trees, and cyprefles. Amid thefe the tall minarees rife, and white houfes glitter, dazzling the beholder. Scio fliared in the calamities, which attended the deftruc- tion of the Greek empire 1 . In the year 1093, when robbers and pirates were in poflelfion of feveral confiderable places, 'f z^chas, a Turkifh inalecontent, took the city. The Greek admiral en- deavouring to reduce it for the emperor Alexis, made a breach 1 See Modern Univerful Hiftory. in 48 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. in the wall ; and he came to its relief from Smyrna with a fleet and eight thouiand men, but foon after abandoned it in the night. In 1 306 this was one of the iilands, which fuffered from the exactions of the Grand Duke Roger, general of the Roman armies. The city was then feized by the Turks, who came be- fore it with thirty mips, and put the inhabitants to the fvvord. In 1 346 it was taken by fome gallies fitted out by thirty noble Genoefe. A fleet of fixty veffels was fent by the Sultan in 1 394 to burn it and the towns adjacent,, and to ravage the iilands and fea-coaft. The city purchafed peace from Mahomet the fecond in 1455; givhig a fum of money, and agreeing to pay tribute yearly. Scio experienced evil, but if it be compared with the fiifferings of fome other places in thefe times of rapine and violence, fortune will feem to have concurred with the par- tiality of nature, and to have diftinguiihed this as afavourite ifland. The Genoefe continued in poffeiiion of Scio about two hun- dred and forty years. They were deprived of it in 1566, during the liege of Malta, by the Turkifh admiral, who garrifoned it for Sultan Solyman ; but the Chiotes in general were ftill in- dulged with numerous and extraordinary privileges. They con- lifted of two parties, differing in their religious tenets ; one of the Greek perfuafion, which acknowlege the patriarch of Con- ftantinople as their head ; the other of the Latin, or papifts, which enjoyed a free toleration under the Turks, their priefts celebrating mafs as in Chriftendom, bearing the facraments to the fick, going in folcmn proceffion, habited, beneath canopies, with cenfers in their hands, to the year 1694. The Venetians then attacked and took the caftle, but abandoned it on a defeat of their fleet near the Spalmadore iilands, which lie in the chan- nel between Scio and the continent. The Latins, who had-af- iifted them, dreaded the puniihment, which their ingratitude deferved; and the prime families with the biftiop fled and fettled in the Morea, which had been recently conquered by the Ve- netians. The Turks feized the churches, abolifhed the Genoefe drefs, and impofed on their vaffals badges of their fubjection ; obliging them, among other articles, to alight from their horfes at the city-gate, and at the approach of any, even the meaneft, muffelman. The TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 49 The town of. Scio- 1 and its vicinity refembles from the fea Genoa and its territory, as it were in miniature. The antient city had a good port, and fixations for eigthty (hips. The prefent, which occupies its lite, beneath Pelinaeus, is large, well built and populous. A naked hill rifes above it, with a houfe or two on the jfummit, where was the acropolis or citadel of the Greeks, and afterwards of the Genoefe. We found men at work there, digging up the old foundations for the materials. The port has an ordinary or ruinous mole, like that of Tenedos, almoft level with the water. The mouth is narrow, and befet with lurking rocks and flioals. It was about noon when we landed. We went to the houfe of the Englifh conful, who was in the country. A Greek, called Antonio, his fervant, and the drugoman or in- terpreter belonging to the captain, who was with us, procured fome fowls, and eggs, with wine and fruit, for our dinner. In the evening we walked over the town, which appeared to us as a collection of petty palaces, after the hovels of mud we had lately feen on the continent. The beautiful Greek girls are the moil ftriking ornaments of Scio. Many of thefe were fitting at the doors and win- dows, twirling cotton or filk, or employed in fpinning and needle-work, and accofted us with familiarity, bidding us welcome, as we pafTed. The ftreets on Sundays and holi- days are filled with them in groups. They wear fhort petti- coats, reaching only to their knees, with white filk or cotton hofe. Their head-drefs, which is peculiar to the iiland, is a kind of Turban, the linen fo white and thin it feemed fnow. Their flippers are chiefly yellow, with a knot of red fringe at the heel. Some wore them fattened with a thong. Their garments were of filk of various colours ; and their whole appearance fo fan- taflic and lively as to afford us much entertainment. The Turks inhabit a feparate quarter, and their women are concealed. W e returned to the fhip at night, the drugoman and Chiote lighting us with long paper lanthorns to the boat, which- waited at the beach. A great number of gaunt dogs were collected by the fhambles, which are at the out-fkirt of the town. They i See Views. Le Brun. p. 168. G barked 5© TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. harked furioufly at us, but were chid and repelled by our guides, whofe language they understood. The public, we were told, maintains them ; and they aflemble, when all is quiet. Thefe animals, it is obfervable, were of old a like nuifance. They feem the Lemures of the antients, who ufed to pacify them with food. The Arcadians in particular were accuftomed to carry bread from their table on account of the nightly terrors, or the dogs, which they expecTed to afTail them in the frxeets 1 . The next morning we were fet on fhore again. I accom- panied Captain Jolly to the principal Bagnio or public bathing- place, a very noble edifice, with ample domes, all of marble ; and fhall attempt to give an account of the mode of bath- ing. We undreffed in a large fquare room, where linen is hung to dry, and the keeper attends with his fervants. We had each a long towel given us to wrap round our middle, and a pair of tall wooden pattens to walk in. We were led through a warm narrow paffage into the inner room, which is yet more fpacious, and made very hot by (loves, which are concealed. In this was a water-bath, and recefies, with partitions, on the fides. The pavement in the centre under the dome was raifed, and ^covered with linen cloths, on which we were bid to lie down. We were foon covered with big drops of fweat, and two men naked, except the waift, then entered, and began kneading our flelh j tracing all the mufcles and cleanfing the pores. By the time they had finifhed, our joints were iufBciently fuppled, and they commenced the formidable operation of fnapping all of them, not only the toes, ancles, knees, fingers and the like, but the vertebra of the back, and the breafr. ; one while wrenching our necks ; then turning us on our bellies, croffing our arms behind us, and placing their right knee between our ihoulders. The feats they perform cannot eafily be defcribed, and are hardly credible, When this was over, we w r ere rubbed with a mohair- bag fitted to the hand, which, like the antient ftrigil, brings away the grofs matter perfpired, We were then led each to a recefs, fupplied by pipes with hot and cold water, which we tempered to our liking. The men returned with foap-lather and tow in a wooden bowl, i See note, Vitruvius, 1. 6. c. 5. with TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 5I with which they cleaned the fkin, and then poured a large quantity of warm water on our heads. Our fpirits were quite exhaufted, when they covered us with dry cloths and led us back to the firft room, where beds were ready for us. On waking after a gentle {lumber, we were prefented each with a lighted pipe and a dim of coffee. We rofemuch refrefhed, and as the ladies of the Aga or Turkifh governor were expected there, hafl- ened away. The common Turks and Greeks pay a very fmall gratuity for the ufe of the bath, which they frequent once a week or oftener. I have fometimes been regaled, while in the inner room, with ripe fruits and fherbet, and with incenfe burning to fcent the air. One of my companions repeatedly partook with me in this innocent and wholfome luxury at Smyrna and at Athens. On our return from the bath we found the conful at home. He was a fpare fhrewd Greek, a direct contrail to the fat, open, hofpitable Jew our hofl at the Dardanell. He prefented us with pomegranates of a particular fpecies, for which the illand is noted. The kernels are free from (tones. It is ufual to bring them to table in a plate, fprinkled with rofe water. Thefe are excellent fruit, but accounted aflringent. An Englifh gentleman named Bracebridge had come with the conful to vifit us. He was an elderly perfon, and had been abfent fome years from his native country for the benefit of a warmer climate. After much wandering, he gave the preference to this ifland above any of the places which he had tried. Our captain, who took leave of us at night, intending to fail in the morning, was detained fome time longer by foul weather. We foon found that the old religious parties flill fublifl with unextinguifhed animofity, each feci cherifhing infuperable hatred, and intriguing to ruin its adverfary. We law the Latins at their worfhip in the chapel of the vice-conful of the French nation, which was very neat, well filled, efpecially with women, and handfomely illuminated. The Englifh conful, who ferved fome other European powers, was much haunted by priefh of that church, and had a patent of knighthood from the pope. G 2 The 52 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. The wines of Scio have been celebrated as aiding digeftion, as nutritive and pleafant. They were much efteemed by the Romans. Hortenfius hoarded them ; and Casfar, who was as generous as magnificent, difpenfed them freely to the people at his triumphs and facrifices. It is related, that the culture of the vine was introduced by a fon of Bacchus, called CEnopion or The Wine-Drinker, whofe fepulchre remained here in the fecond century ; and that red wine, with the method of making thefe liquors, was invented by the Chians. A rugged trad: named Arvifia was particularly famous for its produce, which has been extolled as ambrofial, and ftiled a new nedtar. Mr. Bracebridge, whom we vifited at his houfe near the town, treated us with a variety of choice fpecimens ; and it may be queftioned, if either the flavour or qualities, once fo commended, be at all impaired. In feveral we found the former truly admirable. To the peculiar pofleffion of the Arvifian vine, now no longer talked of, has fucceeded the profitable culture of the Lentifcus, or maftic-tree. This employs, as we were told, twenty one villages, which are required to provide as many thou- fand okes l of gum annually for the ufe of the feraglio at Con- stantinople. They procure it by boring the trunks with a fmall fliarp iron, in the fummer-months. In October their harveft is conveyed with mufic into the city, and lodged in the caftle. The Cadi and officers, who attend while it is weighed, have each a certain portion for their perquifite. The remainder is delivered to the farmer or planter, to be difpofed of for his own advan- tage. The Greeks of thefe villages have a feparate governor, and enjoy many privileges. In particular, they are allowed to wear a turban of white linen, and their churches have each a bell to call them to prayers, an indulgence of which they fpeak with much glee. The Afiatic ladies are exceffively fond of this gum, which they chew greedily, believing it good for the breath, and attributing to it various other excellent properties. i An oke is a Turkifh weight of about two pounds three quarters avoir de pois. PR05- TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 53 Prosperity kiefs friendly to antiquity than defertion and depopulation. We faw no Stadium, Theatre, or Odeum ; b-ut fo illuftrious a city, with a marble quarry near it, could not be deftitute of thofe neceffary flruftures, and perhaps fome traces might be diicovered about the hill, on which the citadel flood. A few bafs-reliefs and marbles are fixed in the walls, and over the gate-ways of the houfes ». We found by the fea-fide, near the town, three flones with infcriptions, which had been brought for ballaft from the continent of Alia. The Chiote, our atten- dant, was vociferous in his enquiries, but to little purpofe. We were more than once defired to look at a Genoefe coat of arms for a piece of antient fculpture ; and a date in modern Greek for an old infcription. The mofl curious remain is that which has been named, without reafon, The School of Homer. It is on the coafl at fome diflance from the city, northward, and appears to have been an open temple of Cybele, formed on the top of a rock. The fhape is oval, and in the centre is the image of the goddefs, the head and an arm wanting. She is reprefented, as ufual, fitting. The chair has a lion carved on each fide 2 , and on the back. The area is bounded by a low rim or feat, and about five yards over. The whole is hewn out of the mountain, is rude, indiftindt, and probably of the mofl remote antiquity. From the flope higher up is a fine view of the rich vale of Scio, and of the channel, with its fhining iflands, beyond which are the mountains on the main -land of Ana. i Infcript. Ant. p. 4. 2 Pocoke has metamorphofed the goddefs and the two lions on the fides of the chair into Homer and a couple of the Mufes. The three figures, inftead of certain parts only, were, I fhould fuppofe, fupplied by the fancy of the. draiver. The reader may have a much better idea of the original from a relief among the Oxford Mar- bles, n. cxv. The image, it is likely, held in the hand, which is miffing, either a patera, or tympanum. See n. cxm. cxiv. CHAP. 54 TRAVELSinASIAMINOR. CHAP. XVII. Set fail from Scio — Moor in a creek — Weather Cape Kara-bornu— The Inbat — View of Smyrna from the Sea — The Frank Jheet—-The Conful's houfe — Live Chameleons. THE inconveniences, under which we had laboured for fome time, rendered us impatient to get as fair, as poflible to Smyrna. We had been advifed not to carry fervants with us from England, and had made our way thus far alone. Befides the want of proper attendants, we were without our bedding, which, in our hurry at quitting the Anglicana, had been left on the quarter-deck. The weather was unfavourable to our departure from Scio. Thick clouds covered the mountains, and the foutherly wind called Sirocco prevailed. It thun- dered very much, with lightning, and rained hard in the night. We had hired a boat manned with Greeks, and our baggage was carried to the cuftom houfe to be inipedled, but it blew fo violently, we were advifed not to go on board. The next day the wind flill continued high and contrary ; but, as it feemed not likely to change, and our boat was flout, we refolved to venture, and accordingly about noon embarked' with a rough fea. L e a v i n g the mole of Scio, we buffetted the waves acrofs to the continent, where we took in more ballaft. We then flood to and fro the whole afternoon, but made little way. Our boat carried a large unhandy fail, which, when we tacked about, did not readily clear, and once we barely efcaped being overfet. In the evening we entered a fmall creek, and moored by two other veffels. In the rockclofe by were caverns black with fmoke. Thefe afford fhelter to mariners and fifhermen, in dark nights and tempeftuous wea- ther, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 55 ther, when the fea is not navigable. We landed very wet from the fait fpray, and half-ftarved with hunger. We had endea- voured^ when we flopped before, to make the crew understand, that our keen appetites required prefent gratification, but did not fucceed. Some of them now made a fire on more, and boiled the fowls, which we had provided. We fupped in a manner fufficiently difgufting, and retired to the boat, where the frefh ballaft, was our bed. We were under fail again, as foon as the morning dawned j plying between Mount Mimas on the continent and the Spalma- dore iflands, called antiently CEnufTae. They belonged to the Chians, who had refufed to fell them to the Phoceans. About two we weathered the fouthern promontory of the gulf of Smyrna, formerly called Acra Melaena, or Black Point. The Turkifh name, which now prevails, fignifies nearly the fame. It is Kara-bornu or Black Nofe. Smyrna is fituated in the latitude of 38 d . 40 m . at the end of a long bay. As foon as we had gained the mouth of this gulf, the wind called Inbat began to waft us plea- fantly along. This, which is a wefterly wind, fets regularly in, during the hot months, in the day time ; and is gene- rally fucceeded by a land-breeze in the night. The city was in view before us, when evening came on, and the gale died away. We arrived at the Frank Scale, or key for Europeans, early in the morning, and beheld Smyrna, no longer remotej fpread- ing on a flope, the fummit of the hill crowned with a large folitary caftle ; domes and minarees, with cyprefs-trees inter- fperfed, rifing above the houfes. On the fouth fide, where the Armenians and Jews have extenfive burying grounds on flats one above another, the furface of the acclivity appeared as co- vered with white marble. The quarter affigned to the Franks is on the north fide ; and by the more, not far from us, ihe Eng- lilh flag was hoifted. Soon after, the conful, then Antony Hayes S 6 TRAVELS, in ASIA MINOR, Hayes efquire, fent an Armenian, one of his drugomen or interpreters, to be our guide to his houfe. We landed and pafied through the Bezeften or Market, which is " in form like a ftreet, (hutting up at each end, the (hops being little rooms with cupolas leaded, and holes on the top with glafs to let the light in ".'" We then entered the ftreet of the Franks which had a dirty kennel, was of a mean afpect, and fo narrow that we could fcarcely get by a camel laden with charcoal. It was partly in ruins, a terrible fire having happened in the preceding year ; and fome of the confuls and merchants were now rebuilding, or had recently finifhed their houfes, which in general extend from the ftreet backward to the beach, and have an area or court. The apartments are in the upper ftory, fpacious and hand fome, with long galleries, and terraces, open to the fea and the refrefhing Inbat. Beneath them are large and fubftantial magazines for goods. We were received by the conful, and vifited by Mr. Lee, one of the principal merchants, and by the factory and other gen- tlemen, with great civility. As we were likely to make fome ftay, we enquired for lodgings, but were told that the families, which had been burned out, occupied all and were diftrefled for room. The conful politely offered us a detatched part of his houfe, which confifts of a large quadrangle with a court behind it. We were here much at our eafe, and clofe by an ample gal- lery, where we might enjoy the grateful Inbat, with a full view of the (hipping and of the long fair canal within Kara-bornu, which is bordered by woody mountains and du(ky olive-groves ; the furface of the water ftiining, and fmooth ; or rufHed by the wind ; the waves then coming toward Smyrna as it were in re- gular progreffion, and breaking on the beach. Among the new objects, which firft attracted our attention, were two live chameleons, one of the fize of a large lizard. They i VVheler. were TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. $7 were confined each on along narrow piece of board fufpended be- tween two firings, and had for fecurity twitted their tails feveral times round. We were much amufed with the changes in the colour of thefe reptiles, and with feeing them feed. A fly, de- prived of its wings, being put on the board, the chameleon foon perceives its prey, and untwirling its tail, moves toward it very gently and deliberately. When within diftance, it fuddenly feizes the poor infedt, darting forward its tongue, a fmall long tube furnifhed with glutinous matter at the end, to which the fly ad- heres. This is done fo nimbly and quietly, that we did not wonder it remained unobferved for ages, while the creature was idly fuppofed to fubfifl on air. One of thefe made its efcape, the other perifhed with hunger. CHAP. XVIII. Origin of Smyrna The Jite Its profperity Ruinecfc- The citadel repaired The Mahometan and Christian towns Succefs of Tamerlane Smyrna reduced by the Sultans The prefent town The citadel Thejladium and theatre The ■ port The walls Thefepulchres Confumption of the old materials Tomb of St. Poly carp. IT is related of Alexander the Great, that after hunting he fell afleep on Mount Pagus beneath a plane tree, which grew by a fountain near a temple of the Nemefes; and that the god- defles directed him in a vifion to found there a city for the Smyr- neans, a people from Ephefus, then living in villages. The work was begun by Antigonus, and finifhed by Lyfimachus. The Clarian oracle was conlulted on the removal of the Smyrneans 1 , and anfwered in an heroic couplet, that thofe who fhould dwell on mount Pagus, beyond the facred Meles, would experience great profperity. Afterwards the Ephelians, remembering their com- 1 Paufaaias, p. 210. II mon 5 8 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. mon origin, procured, with the concurrence of king Attalus and of Ariinoe his queen, their admiffion as members of the Ionic body ; an honour, which they had coveted long before, when it was firft conftituted ». The Smyrneans acknowleged more than one Nemefis ; and two are reprefented as appearing to the warrior on a Medaglion in the Vatican 2 . The fite felected by Alexander for this people was fnch as the antient founders commonly preferred. Their cities in ge- neral were feated by fome hill or mountain, which, as this did, fupplied them with marble, and was commodious as well for defence as ornament. The fide or dope afforded a fecure foun- , dation for the feats of the Stadium and Theatres, leffening both the labour and expenfe. It difplayed the public and private ftructures, which rofe from its quarry, to advantage ; and ren- dered the view as captivating as noble. The Greeks were of old accounted happy in chufing their Situations. They had been ftudious to unite beauty with Strength, and good ports with a fertile foil. The Romans were attentive to articles neglected by them, to the paving of the ways, to the building of aquaeducl's, and to the common-mores. Smyrna flourished, as Apollo had foretold; and, under the Romans, was efteemed the moll: beautiful of the Ionian cities. The wall comprized a portion of Mount Pagus, but more of the plain by the port, by the Metroum or temple of Cybele, and by the Gymnafium. The ftreets were as fbrait as the fite would ad- mit, and excellently difpofed. The ways were paved. Both above and below, were large quadrangular Stoas or porticoes. There was alio a Library, and, beiides the other requifites of a noble city, a port which Shut up ; but from an omifHon of the architects, the want of fewers occafioned a great nuifance. It was much fre- quented by the fophifts, and, with Ephefus, became renowned as a School of oratory and fcience. It has been exalted with high encomiums, and fliled the lovely, the crown of Ionia, the Ornament of Afia. i Vitruvius, p. 55. 2 See Mufeum C. Albani v. 1. pi. 32. In TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 59 In the year 1084, Tzachas, a Turkifh malecontent, who af- fumed the title of king, feized and made Smyrna his capital. His fleet took Clazomene, Phocea, Scio, Samos, Mitylene, and other places. In 1097 this city was beiieged by John Ducas, the Greek admiral ; and on its furrender, Cafpaces, who had been fent to attack it by fea, was appointed governor ; but a Turk ftabbed him, and his dearh was revenged by the maflacre often thoufand inhabitants. The whole coait. of Afia, from Smyrna to Attalia, had been defolated by the wars, when the Greek em- peror fent Philokales, in 1 106, to reftope its cities. Adramytium, which had been utterly deflroyed, was then rebuilt, and peopled with peafantsand ftrangers. At the beginning of the thirteenth century, Smyrna lay in ruins, except the acropolis or citadel, which then ferved as a fortrefs. This was repaired and beautified by the emperor John Angelus Comnenus >, who died in 1224. Smyrna, thus re- flored, was a fmall town chiefly on the fummit of Mount Pagus, or within the prefent caftle. In 13 13, Atin had fubdued Lydia, and extended his con- quefts to this place. In 1332, Amir or Homur, his fon and fucceflbr was Sultan of Smyrna. In 1345, while he was abfent with his fleet, ravaging the coafts of the Propontis, fome gallies of the Latins, and of the knights of Rhodes burnt feveral veffels in the port. Amor arived in time to fave the town, but could not dillodge the enemy from a fort, which they had feized, nor prevent their making of a fettlement at the mouth of the port, at a diftance from the Turkifh town. The next year, the pope fent thither a nominal patriarch of Conftantinople, cfcorted by twelve gallies ; but Amir, while mafs was cele- brating in the church, attacked and drove the Italians into their citadel called fort St. Peter, before which he was afterwards killed by an arrow. Tamerlane, who ravaged Anatolia or Afia Minor in 1402, hearing that the Chriftians and Mahometans had each a flrong- 1 Ducas, c. 7. H 2 hold 60 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. hold at Smyrna, and were always at war, required the former to change their religion ; but the governor foliciting aid from the European princes, Tamerlane marched in perfon to fubdue a place, which Sultan Morat had attempted in vain, and which his fon Bajazet had beiieged or blockaded for feven years. He attacked it by fea and land ; and, to ruin the port, ordered each foldier to throw a ftone into the mouth, which was foon filled up ; but the mips had got away. He took the town in fourteen days, with great flaughter of the inhabitants, and demolished the houfes. The knights had fled into the cattle of St. Peter, and thence to their gallies, winch lay near. He is faid to have cut off a thoufand prifoners, and to have caufed a tower to be erected with {tones and their heads intermixed. Cineis, who had long been governor of the Turkifh town, continued in porTeffion when it was thus freed from its enemy and rival. He was much efteemed by the Ionians, and, after a variety of fortune, rofe to be a fovereign in Afia. Sultan Mo- shammed the firft marched againfk him in 1419, and deprived him of Nympheum, the city Cyme, and afortrefs in the field of Menomen. He was aflifted by the governors of the iflands, who hated Cineis, by feveral princes on the conti- nent, his neighbours, and even by the Grand Matter of Rhodes, who was then rebuilding fort St. Peter, which Tamerlane had deltroyed. He demolished the fortification of Smyrna, but fpared the inhabitants ; and, on a complaint that the Ionian flaves who efcaped from their owners found ihelter in the fort, ordered it to be ruined ; permitting another to be erected on the borders of Lycia and Caria. Smyrna was again taken in 1424 by Sultan Morat, Cineis retiring to the mountains. When the conquering Turk had gained complete pofTeiTion of the Greek empire, and peace was reftored, commerce revived and again fettled at Smyrna. The inhabitants, delivered from their apprehenfions of danger, by degrees abandoned the caftle, and the town Aid as it were down the ilope towards the fea •> leaving behind it a naked fpace, where they now dig for old ma- terials, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 61 terials, and alfo fome ordinary ruins below the caftle, which overlooks the buildings and the bay, at a diftance. The reader will not be furprifed if few traces of the antient city remain. From a furvey of the caftle, which is extenfive, we colledt, that after being re-edified by John Angelus Comne- nus, its condition, though lefs ruinous than before, was far more mean and ignoble. The old wall, of which many rem- nants may be discovered, is of a folid maflive conftruction, worthy of Alexander and his captains. All the repairs are mere patch-work. Near the weftern gate- way, at which you enter from the town, was once a fountain, now dry; by which is a marble coloffal head, the face much injured, of Apollo, or, as fome have fuppofed, of Smyrna, an Amazon, from whom the people derived their name. Within, isadeferted mofquc, rub- bifh of buildings, and a large refervoir for water; the roof arch- ed, and fupported by piers. On the marble arch of the gate- way fronting the north is infcribed a copy of verfes, giving an elegant and poetical defcription of the extreme mifery, from which the emperor John before mentioned had raifed the city; and concluding with an addrefs to the omnipotent Ruler of heaven and earth, that he would grant him and his queen, whole beauty it celebrates, a reign of many years ' . On each fide is an eagle rudely cut. The river Hermus may be feen from this eminence, which alfo affords a view of a fine champaign country round about, covered with vines Going down from the weflern gate of the caftle toward the fea, at fome diftance is the ground-plat of the Stadium, ftripped of its marble feats and decorations. One fide was on the flope of the mountain ; the oppofite, or that next to the town, was raifed on a vaulted fubftrudiion, which remains. It appears as along dale, femicircular or rounded at the top. The area, when we firit faw it, had been reaped; and, another time, fome men were bufy ploughing in it. Going from the northern gate of the caftle, over which is the infeription, you come to veftiges of a Theatre, in the fide of the hill, near the brow, and fronting the bay. i Infcript. Ant. p. 5. Farther 62 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. Farther down is a quarry. Below the Theatre is part of a flight wall, which, with a fofle round the hill, was begun about the year 1736 to protect the town from Soley Bey Ogle, a famous rebel, by whom it had been much diftrefled 1, The Port which flint up reached once to the foot of the caftle- hill, but is now dry, except after heavy rains, when it receives water from the ilopes. It forms a fpacious recefs within the pre- fent town, and has houfes along the margin. Tamerlane, by depriving the lea of its free ingrefs, contributed to this change, and the mud wafhed from above has gradually completed it. Like fome of the Italian havens, it required perhaps to be cleanf- ed and deepened by machines contrived for that purpofe. It is mentioned as the galley port at the beginning of this century 2. A fmall mean caftle hull in ufe, on the north fide of the entrance, is fuppofed to occupy the lite of fort St. Peter. The city- wall, which defcending from the caftle included the Stadium on one hand, and the theatre on the other, has been long fince demolished; and even its ruins are removed. A fmall rem- nant of it, on the hill above the Stadium, conlifts of hard ce- ment of rubble; but has been faced with better materials. This fpecies of antient mafonry was called Pfeudifodomum, as having externally the fame appearance as the Ifodomum, which was wholly of ftone, or marble, the pieces regularly difpofed. This fide comprehended a large portion of the Uurying-grounds without the prefent town. The fide next the Theatre may be traced a considerable way along the brow, from its junction with the north eaft angle of the caftle. In the Armenian quarter, by The three corners or near the Frank ftreet, are remnants of a thick and maflive wall, which has a large V cut on each ftone j and in 1675 the foundations of a great and folid fabric, probably the Gymnaiium, were vifible in that part. Beyond the deep valley, in which the river Meles winds, behind the caftle, are feveral portions of the wall of the pomcerium, which encompaf- fed the city at a diftance, but broken. The facings are gone, and maffes only of hard cement and rubble are left. 1 Pococke. 2 See Tourne^fort. The TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 63 The antient fepulchres were chiefly in the pomaerium, with- out the city. One, which has been abfurdby fuppofed a tem- ple of Janus, remained in 1675, in the way to Efhekleer, or be- yond the river Meles and on the left of the road leading toward Magnefia. It was then among olive-trees, in a field. The in- fcriptions of feveral are preferved and have been published. At the houfe of a Turk, occupied by Mr. Purnell, an Englifh gentleman, was a marble farcophagus, of which a very exacl drawing is given by Le Brun }, The antient city has fupplied materials for the public edifices erecled by the Turks. The Bezeften or Market, which was unfinished in 1675, and the Vizir-khan, were both railed with the white marble of the theatre. The very ruins of the porticoes and temples are vanifhed. We faw remains of one only; fome {hafts of columns of variegated marble, much injured, in the way afcending through the town to the caftle. Many pedef- tals, fiatues, infcriptions, and medals, have been and are ftill difcovered in digging. Perhaps no place has contributed more than Smyrna to enrich the collections and cabinets of the curi- ous in Europe. In the hiftory of St. Polycarp, the firfr. bifhop of Smyrna, it is related, that he was burnt here in the Amphitheatre. The Afiatic cities ufed the Stadium for the diverilons of the Roman amphitheatre ; and that, it is probable, was the fcene of his martyrdom. His fepulchre, which the Greek chriftians are faid to have revered and to have vifited annually on the day of his felHval or on the twenty third of February, is ftill to be feen, as travellers have reported, by a fpreading tree below the caftle -, but this is an idle tale, and deferves to be exploded. I examined the fpot, and made particular enquiries, but could obtain no fatisfadtory information. If his reliques were in- terred, and the place once venerated, the knowledge of it has long fince periihed. The early tradition, if true, muft. have been often intercepted in its courfe downwards . The race of citizens, among whom it was moil likely to be preferved, has 1 See Wilder, p. 243, and Spoa. t. 1. p. 310. p. 130. been 64 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. been extirpated by war, plague, fire, and earthquakes, and Smyrna has been deftitute of Greeks. Even now, under a more fettled government, the fame family feldom fubfifts there more than three generations. CHAP. XIX. Smyrna a great mart — The people Dre/s of the women — - Buildings — Heat, earthquakes, and plague — Burying -grounds — Provijions — Mofquitoes or gnats. THE devaftations committed in AfiaMinor, and the changes effected on the coaft, as will be fhewn hereafter, by the rivers, have rendered Smyrna the only confiderable mart by the fea fide, and, in confequence, the principal center of the traffic of the country. One lucrative branch of its commerce failed dur- ing the troubles in Perfia, when the throne was ufurped by Nadir Shah. The accufbomed communication by caravans was then interrupted ; and trade, meeting with obffrudlions in the old courfe, which it had held for ages, turned away into new channels. But, with this lofs, Smyrna continues a large and flourifhing city. The bay, befides numerous fmall craft, is daily frequented by mips of burthen from the chief ports in Europe ; and the factors, who are a refpeftable body, at once live in afflu- ence and acquire fortunes. The conflux at Smyrna of people of various nations, differ- ing in drefs, in manners, in language, and in religion is very confiderable. The Turks occupy by far the greater part of the town. The other tribes live in ieperate quarters. The proteft- ants and Roman catholics have their chapels ; the Jews a fyna- gogue or two j the Armenians a large and handfome^ church with a burying-ground by it. The Greeks, before the fire, had two churches. They applied by their bifhop at Conftanti- nople TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 6s nople for leave to rebuild that, which was deftroyed, but the fum demanded was too exorbitant to be given. By this policy the Turks will in time extirpate chriffianity from among their vaffals. The factors and other Europeans fettled at Smyrna generally intermarry with the Greeks, or with natives of the fame reli- gion. Their ladies wear the Oriental drefs, confirming of large trowfers or breeches, which reach to the ancle ; long vefts of rich filk, or of velvet, lined in winter with coftly furs ; and round their waift, an embroidered zone with clafps of filver or gold. Their hair is platted, and defcends down the back, often in great profufion. The girls have fometimes above twenty thick treffes, befides two or three encircling the head, as a co- ronet, and fe'l off with flowers, and plumes of feathers, pearls, or jewels. They commonly ftain it of a chefnut-colour, which is the moil defired. Their apparel and carriage are alike an- tique. It is remarkable, that the trowfers are mentioned in a fragment of Sappho 1 . The habit is light, loofe, and cool, adapted to the climate. When they vifit each other, they put over their heads a thin tranfparent veil of muflin with a border of gold tiffue. A Janizary walks before, and two or more hand- maids follow them, through the ftreets. When afTembled, they are leen reclining in various attitudes or fitting crofs-legged on a fofa. Girls of inferior rank from the iflands, efpecially Tino, abound % and are many of them as beautiful in perlon as pidtu- refque in their appearance. They excell in a glow of colour, which feems the effect of a warm fun, ripening the human body as it were into uncommon perfection. The women of the Turks, and of fome other nations, are kept carefully concealed ; and, when they go out, are enwrapped in white linen, wear boots, and have their faces muffled. The principal buildings in Smyrna are the Mofques, the public Baths, the Bezeften or market, and the Khans or Inns. Some of thefe are very ample and noble edifices. The khans , Warton's Theocritus p. 304. They are now called v-""- I have 66 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. have in general a quadrangle' or fquare area, and fbmetlmes a fountain in the middle. The upper ftory confifts of an open gallery, with a range of apartments, and often a fmall mofque or place of worfhip for the ufe of the devout muffelmen. Below are the camels with their burthens, and the mules, or horfes. A fervant dufts the floor of a vacant chamber, when you arrive, and fpreading a mat, which is all the furniture, leaves you in poffeflion. The gates are (hut about funfet, and a trifling gratuity is expected by the keeper at your departure. The flreets of Smyrna, a few excepted, are very narrow, and exceedingly intricate. Caution is requifite in going out of the Frank quarter, and it is proper to be preceded by a Janizary as a fafe-guard. The lofty mountains 1 , which fhelter the town and leave it open only to the fea, concenter the rays of the fun, as it were into a focus. The intenfe heat commences in June, and continues without intermiflion to the end of Auguft or the middle of September. During this period, if the Inbat fail, the inhabitants are diflrefled, and even gafp for breath. The ground is then burnt up, and has large chafms and fiflures, which, as fome have imagined, give vent to bituminous vapours. Thefe, if confined, are fuppofed to occafion earthquakes by their explofion. A year feldom paries without a fhock or two, but generally flight, and lefs hurtful than alarming. They happen chiefly in fpring and autumn, when the weather is calm ; and it has been remarked at thofe times, that the lea commonly withdraws from the beach, and the water is unufually low. Befides this calamity, Smyrna is vifited almoft annually by the plague. If the diflemper rage, the confuls and factors either retire into the country, or, as the phrafe is, Jhut up, not admitting even the market-man to enter their gates. Many of the people abandon their dwellings, and live abroad under tents. The iflanders return home, and the flreets of the Frank quarter, which is exceedingly populous, ceafe to be trodden. i The mountains behind Smyrna were antiently called Maftufia and Termetis. Pliny. The TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 67 The Turks bury chiefly without the town, where the inclofures are very extenfive, it being their cuftom not to open the grounds filled with bodies until a long term of years has elapfed. The graves have Hones or pillars at the head and feet, and are fometimes fhaded with cyprefs-trees. In their coemeteries, and in thofe of the Chriftians and Jews, are found many marble flabs and fragments of architecture. The Engliih ground, which is at a diftance from the Frank quarter, at the oppofite end of the town, is walled in, and con- tains fome monuments worthy notice for the beauty of their fculpture. Thefe were brought from Italy. Mr. Bou- verie, the friend and companion of Mr. Dawkins and Mr. Wood, is interred there, and has over him a plain marble with a long Latin infcription. He died at GuzelhifTar or Mag- nefia by the Mceander. Smyrna is well fupplied with provifions. The Sheep have broad tails, hanging down like an apron, fome weighing eight, ten, or more pounds. Thefe are eaten as a dainty, and the fat, before they are full grown, accounted as delicious as marrow. The flefh of wild hogs is common, and in efteem among the Europeans and Greeks, who purchafe the animal when killed by the Turks. Fine fifli is taken in the bay. Hares, with game and fowl, are cheap. The partridges are bigger than the Eng- lifh, of a different colour and fpecies, with red legs. The olive-groves furnifh doves, fieldfares, thrufhes, quails, fnipes, and the like in abundance. A variety of excellent wines are pro- duced in the country, or imported from the iflands. The fruits are of an exquifite flavour. Among thofe of the gourd kind, the water- mellon which grows to a great fize, is not only highly palatable, but fo innocent as to be allowed to the fick in fevers. The figs are defer vedly famous. The rich clutters of grapes are as wholfome as beautiful. Many on the ftalk are found converted by the fun into raifins. We were fhewn one fpecies, which had no flones. Large and heavy bunches are hung on firings, and preferved in the fhops for fale in the winter. Le- mons and oranges, with citrons, are in plenty. The fherbets made with the juice of the two former, newly gathered, in water, fweetened with white honey, are as cooling as grateful I 2 to 68 . TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. to the tafte. Coffee is brought from Arabia. We partook almofl daily of eatables unknown to us before. It is the ge- neral cuftom to fleep after dinner; and this indulgence is recommended as conducing, and even neceffary, to health in that climate. Our fituation was not, however, without grievances. We were much infefted by a minute fly, which irritates by its punc- ture, and fettling on the white wall, eludes the angry purfuer with furprizing activity. But this fpecies and the other infedts, which annoyed us, were petty offenders compared with the mofquitoes, or large gnats, which tormented us raoft exceed- ingly by their loud noife, and by repeated attacks on our fkin, where naked or lightly clothed, perforating it with their acute probofcis, and fucking our blood, till they were full. A fmall fiery tumour then enfues, which will not foon fubfide, unlefs the patient has been, as it were, naturalized by refidence ; but the pain is much allayed by lemon-juice. At night they raged furioufly about our beds, affaulting the gawfe-veil, our defence ; which, thin as it was, augmented the violent heat to a degree almofl intolerable. Their fondnefs of foreign food is generally but too vifible in the fwollen and distorted features of perfons newly arrived. CHAP. XX. Of the adjacevt country— -The river Meles — The inner bay — Old Smyrna Antient fepulchres Origin of old Smyrna Story of Homer — Of another Poet of Smyrna — The AquaduSls — The cave of Homer — The River-God. SMYRNA has on the fouth-eaft ' a fine plain, in which are villages and the houfes of the principal factors, who relide in the country in the fummer. Norlecui and Hadjelar are toward *Pococke, the TRAVELS in ASIAMINOR. 69 the eaft. On the north fide is Bujaw, diftinguifhed by tall cy- prefs-trees 5' and, about a league from the fea, Bonavre. In the way to this village, not far from the road, is a pool or two, now called The Baths of Diana; the water clear and warm ; a fleam arifing from it in winter. The fragments of a marble edifice near it have been removed. Some arches and founda- tions of buildings have been difcovered in digging. In the middle of the plain are feveral fmall canals, which communi- cate with aquaeducts behind the caftle-hill. The bed of a tor- rent, which after rains falls into the river Meles, is on the fouth of the plain ; and beyond, or toward the feet of the mountains, is a village called Sedicui. Wild animals abound ; and efpecially jackalls, which are heard nightly, howling on the hills or in the plain. When one begins, the reft join as it were in full cry. Chameleons and lizards are. commonly fecn about the rubbilh of old buildings, balking in the fun ; and feveral kinds of fnakes are found, fome of a great length, which frequently are dif- covered by their mufky fmell. The Meles was antiently the boaft of the Smyrneans. This moft beautiful water, as it has been filled, flowed by the city-wall, and had its fources not remote. The clear ftream is fhallow in fummer, not covering the rocky bed, but winding in the deep valley behind the caflle and murmuring among the ever-greens. It receives many rills from the fides ; and, after turning an over-fhot mill or two, approaches The Gardens with- out the town, where it is branched out by fmall canals, and di- vided and fubdivided into leffer currents, until it is abforbed, or reaches the fea, at the end of the Frank ftreet, in ditches, un- like a river. But in winter, after heavy rains on the mountains or the melting of fnow, it fwells into a torrent, rapid and deep, often not fordable, or with danger. On the north of Smyrna, the fea enters a recefs, in which is the road, where fhips careen. This inner bay is called by the Englifh failors, Pegs hole. The Meles, when full, purfues its way thither, inftead of lofing itfelf in the gardens. There alfo the nrft Smyrna was fituated. Old 7 o TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. Old Smyrna was about twenty ftadia or two miles and a half from the prefent city, and on the other fide of the river. It is defcribed as near the fea, with the clear ftream of the Meles running by, and exifted in the fecond cen- tury. Perhaps fome veftiges might be difcovered even now in tracing the river toward the bay. This is lefs wide than it was antiently, and has been removed from the fite, by a large acceflion of low land formed of foil warned from the mountains near, or of mud and flime brought down by the torrents. Pococke' has defcribed feveral very antient fepulchres on the fide of the hill, more to the weft than Bonavre, and near the corner of the bay, which, I. mould fuppofe, are reliques of old Smyrna. The plainefk fort confifts, as he relates, of" a raifed ground in a circular form, of ftones hewn out, or laid in a rough manner. In thefe are generally two graves, funk in die earth, made of hewn ftone and covered over with a large ftone. The others are circular mounts, from twenty to fixty feet in diameter, walled round, as high as their tops, with large rufti- cated ftones ; and have within, under ground, a room, which in fome is divided into two apartments. The walls are all of good workmanfhip, conftructed with a kind of brown baftard granate, the produce of the country, wrought very fmooth ; the joinings as fine as in polifhed marble. Some of the Englifh had opened one of the former fort, and found an urn in it. I vifited an old Turkifh ccemetery of confiderable extent by Bonavre j and regret, that I was not then apprized of thefe curious remains. The Smyrneans were originally of Ephefus, but had feceded, and, after difpoffeiTing the Leleges, founded the city above mentioned. They were expelled in turn by the iEolians of Cyme, and retired to Colophon ; but a party, pretending to be fugitives, obtained re-admiffion, and, while the people were celebrating a feaft of Bacchus without the walls, fhut the gates. A general war was likely to follow between ,P - 93 ' /Eoha TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 71 JEolh and Ionia, but it was at length agreed, that the town fhould deliver up all the effedts of the late inhabitants, who were to be diftributed among the ./Eolian cities. The ter- ritory of Smyrna had fupplied corn for exportation, and the place was then become a confiderable emporium. The Lydians deftroyed this city, and the Smyrneans fubfifted four hundred years as villagers, before they fettled on Mount Pagus. It was the iEolian Smyrna, which claimed the glory of pro- ducing Homer. Critheis his mother, it is related, going in company with other women out of the town, to obferve a fef- tival, was delivered of him near the Meles, and named him Meleligenes. This ftory is dated ten years after the building of Smyrna, and one hundred and fifty eight after the war of Troy. We May regret that the pleas of all the cities, which difputed the honour of his birth,- are not on record. The place and time are equally unafcertained j and it has been obferved, that the poet has mentioned neither the Meles nor Smyrna 1 . The hiftory of Homer, it is remarkable, is fearcely more obfcure than that of another poet of Smyrna, who has likewife written on the Trojan war. This perfon indeed tells us, in aix addrefs to the Mufes, that he had been infpired by them with his whole fong before the down covered his cheeks, while he fed fheep in the territory of Smyrna, by the temple of Diana, on a mountain of a middling height, three times as far from the Hermus as a man, when he hollows, can be heard. His work, containing a'fequel to the Iliad in fourteen books, was found by cardinal Beffarion in the church of St. Nicholas near Hydrus, a city of Magna Grarcia ; and by him communicated to the learn- ed. The name of Quintus, perhaps the owner, was infcribed on the manufcript ; and the author has been fince called by it, with the addition of Smyrnaeus or Calaber. He appears to have been well acquainted with the country in which he lived, and has left fome valuable descriptions of its antiquities and natural curiofities. i Strabo p. 554. The 72 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. The bed of the river Meles, behind the caflle, is crofled by a lofty Aquaedudt, which, when we faw it, had been recently repaired, and then fupplied the fountains in Smyrna. Higher up is one larger, but ruinous ; and near this is a remnant of an antient paved caufey, which led over the hills from Smyrna toward Ephefus and Colophon. The flones are fmooth, broad, and maflive. By the AquseducT: are feveral petrifications, and one, of which an aged tree was the mould. The wood has periihed, but the large hollow trunk, which incrufled it, is Handing. The Meles rifes above the Aquaxiucts out of a dry courle deep-worn by torrents from the mountains. The Smyrneans were extremely jealous of their property in Homer. They diftinguiihed a brafs coin or medal by his name ; and an Homerium, his temple and image furrounded with a quadrangular Stoa or portico, flood in the new city. They likewife mowed a cave by the fources of the Meles, where they faid he had compofed verfes. I fearched for this, and in the bank above the Aquaedudl, on the left hand, difco- vered a cavern, about four feet wide, the roof a huge rock cracked and flanting, the fides and bottom fandy. The mouth, at which I crept in, is low and narrow; but there is another avenue, wider and higher, about three feet from the ground, and almofl concealed with brambles. It may be entered alfo from above where the earth has fallen in. Beyond it we found a pafTage cut, leading into a kind of well, in which was a fmall channel defigned to convey water to the Aquaeducl:. This was dry, but near it was a current with a like aperture. The River-God Meles is reprefented on medals leaning on an urn with a cornucopia in his hand, to fignify that lie difpenfed fertility ; or bearing a lyre, as a friend to the Mufes. He has been much extolled by the antient poets, and raifed, from his fuppofed connection with Homer, to a kind of pre-eminence among the river deities. ASophift 1 , alluding to epithets be- i Sec Philpftratus. flowed TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 73 flowed by Homer, fays of the Meles, that, boafting fuch a fon, he needed not envy the flver-vortexes of one river; or another, his fmoothnefs j a third, that he is termed divine ; or a fourth, beautiful-, Xanthus or Scamander, the river near Troy, his de- fcent from Jupiter j nor the Ocean, that he is ftiled their ge- neral parent. CHAP. XXI. The gulph of Smyrna Menimen The river Hermus The Jirait — The Jhoals — The plain of the Hermus — The mouth — Of Leuce — The extremity of the plain — Of Phocea — Future changes to be expeSled. THE gulf of Smyrna, which has been computed about ten leagues long, is fheltered by hills, and affords fecure anchorage. The mouth of the Hermus is on the north fide, within two leagues and a half of the city. The mountain which bounds the bay of old Smyrna on the north, extends weflward to a level plain, in which the river runs. This, with the Maeander, was antiently famous for a fifh called Glanis, and for mul- let ; which came up from the fea in great numbers, particularly in fpring. The fertility of the foil by the river, and the plenty of water for the ufes of gardening and agriculture, with other advantages, has occalioned the fettling of numerous villages on that fide of the gulf. Menomen, or, as it is commonly called, Menimen, is the principal, and fupplies Smyrna with fruits, fiih, and provifions, boats paffing to and fro without inter- miffion. Near the fcale or landing-place, which is three hours diflant, is a large quantity of low land, bare, or covered only with fhallow water. This tract is the fite of a confiderable fifhery ; being inclofed by reed-fences with gates or avenues, which are fliut up to prevent the fhoals from retreating, when K, they 74. TRAVELS in ASIA MTNO'R. they have once entered. We faw on the beach many camels laden, or Handing by their burthens ; and met on the road fome travellers from Arabia and other countries, going to or re- turning from Conflantinople. The hills were enlivened by flocks of fheep and goats ; and refounded with the rude mufic of the lyre and of the pipe ; the former a flringed inftru- ment refembling a guittar, and held much in the fame manner, but ufually played on with a bow. We were then en- gaged with fome of our countrymen in a mooting party, and in traverfing the mountains, I had a diftincl view of Menimen. It is fituated on a rifing ground by the Hermus, and appeared as a confiderable place, with old caflles. I have fometimes fufpe&ed it to have been antiently called Neontichos; but thefe parts, with the whole country of iEolia, flill remain unexplored. The Hermus, which in the winter had fpread a wide flood, now, after pairing Menimen, purfued its way to the fea, through low grounds in fome places flill under water. The flxeam was not wide, but full ; winding toward the mouth, by which the foil appeared bare, and as mud undried. In fummer it has a bar at the entrance, and is often mallow ; and fome of the fhoals marked in the map are then dry. The plain had many channels formed by torrents from the mountains. Near the mouth of the river is a fand-bank or ftioal. The channel there is very narrow, . the land on the oppofite fide running out, and forming a low point, on which is a fortrefs erect e'd, .$6 fecure the approach to the city, foon after the battle of the Dardanelles in 1656, when the Venetians defeated the fleet of Mahomet the fourth. It is called Sahgtac cattle, becaufe the Grand Signior's colours are on fome occalions hoifled there. ./ , Besides the vifible acceffion of land by the Hermus, and on the margin of the gulf, feveral banks lie concealed beneath the water, on either hand, failing up to Smyrna. The princi- pal TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 7J pal one next the river, it is faid, was formerly a dry and green flat, which fuddenly funk after an earthquake ; probably that which happened in 1739, and was fo great, as to occaiion a general terror ; many families from apprehenfion abandoning their houfes after it, and fleeping all the fummer in huts in their gardens and court-yards. Ships often go upon it, without much danger, and are foon afloat again, if the wind fetin. The end is driven out in an elbow toward the Sangiac cattle by a ftrong current from the bay of old Smyrna ; but the head is firmly fixed, and it will gradually re-emerge, and. become dry and green as before. I have failed often by fhoals on the fame fide as the caftle in the way to the olive-groves, which, I was told, had rifen above the furface of the fea, within a few years. On one or two of them was a hut belonging to fome poor fifhermen. The beautiful and extenfive plains, which were of old regarded as peculiar to the country, have been juftly ftiled the offspring of its rivers. The Hermus, the Cayfter, and the Maeander, were each noted for producing new land ; and had each a diftrict aptly called by its name, as by that of the parent. The mouth of the Hermus has been continually fhifting and changing place in confequence of the encroachments made on the fea. Hence Pliny writes, " The town of Temnos has been, but the rocks within the extremity of the gulf, called Myrmeces, The Pif?mres, now are, at the mouth of the Hermus." It is at prefent much nearer to Smyrna than ap- pears in the Maps in general, and perhaps than it was a few centuries ago. The fame author mentions, that Leuce, then a pro- montory in the Smyrnean gulf, had once been anifland. This fpot had on it a fmall town of the fame name, founded in the fecond year of the ninety ninth Olympiad by Tachos a Perfian malecontent, who died foon after. The people of Cyme and of Clazomene contended for it, and agreed to fubmit their caufe K s to 7 6 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. to the decifion of the oracle at Delphi -, when the Pythia gave Leuce to the claimant, which mould firfl facrifice there in the temple of Apollo. The Clazomenians were the more remote, but by their management obtained the place. Ariflonicus, an illegitimate fon of king Eumenes, got pof- feflion of it on the death of Attalus Philometor. The Roman conful (Jraflus was fent againft him, and was killed fighting near it. It happened, that our paflage up and down the gulf was in the night j but when we failed from Smyrna, the Inbat met us near the entrance, and we fteered our boat into a fmall creek on the north fide, below the Hermus, and an hour from Phoggia, or Phocea. We had there a view of the extremity of the plain, which is wide, low, and level, encircling the rocks once called the Myrmeces, and a fmall mountain or hill with a fmooth top. This, it is believed, was the iiland and promontory Leuce. A long fpit now runs from it out into the fea. On the coaft, after Leuce, was antiently Phocea, fituated in a bay ', the city oblong, the wall inclofing a fpace of two miles and five hundred paces, the fides then meeting and forming as it were a wedge, which they called Lamptera, where it was one mile and two hundred paces wide. A tongue of land then running a mile out into the lea, and dividing the bay about the middle, formed two fecure ports, one on each fide of the Ifthmus; that toward the fouth called Nauftathmos ; the other, which was near, Lamptera. The prefent town ' is feated on the tongue, within the Ifthmus, and the antient fite is called Pataa- Phoggia or Old Phocea. It has on the north four iflets, one named St. George, lying before the harbour. Beyond Phocea were the boundaries of Ionia and iEolia, lefs than two hundred ftadia or twenty five miles from Smyrna. The river Hermu9, by its influence on the gulf, has already effected great changes, and will gradually accomplish fome fignal i See Views in Le Brun p. 166. alterations, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 77 alterations, of which the progrefs deferves to be accurately marked. The flats before Smyrna will mutually approach ; and leaving only a narrow ingrefs, the city be on a lake. This will be fed by the Meles and by torrents, and in time become frefh. The plague of gnats will then, if poffible, be multiplied at Smyrna. The land will continue to increafe, until it is in a line with the mouth of the gulf, when the fite of Clazomene and the iflets within Kara-bornu, will be en- compaffed with foil ; and, if no current intervene, Phocea will be deprived of its harbour. The fea within the gulf will by degrees give place to a noble plain created and watered by the Hermus. Commerce will have then removed to fome more commodious mart, and Smyrna be, if not utterly deferted, defolate and forlorn. CHAP. XXII. Our firhman- — Firjl journey from Smyrna — A tendour Mildnefs of the winter at Smyrna Return of the cranes — - We prepare for another journey — Rumour of the plague Confrmed Our embarrafj'ment Our fecond journey Method. O N our return to Smyrna in the evening of the eighteenth of September from a fmall excurfion with a party of our coun- trymen, we were agreeably furprized to find the Anglicana arrived in the bay from Constantinople. The captain brought with him & firhman or Travelling Command, obtained for us from the Porte by the Englifh embaflador. This inftrument en- joined all the governors, the judges, the officers of the Jani- zaries and of the revenue, to whom we fhould prefent it, not to moleft us or our European fervants, on any pretence, nor to exact tribute from us, but to protect and defend us, and permit us to profecute our journies without obitru&ion, as they refpe&ed 78 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. refpected the imperial Signature. It was dated about the mid- dle of the moon Rebiulevvel in the year of the Hegira 1 178 j or of September 1764. A fmall portion of the year yet remained not unfit for tra- velling. Finding our Englifh bedding too cumberfome, we purchafed thin mattrelles fluffed with cotton, fome tin kettles, plates, and other like neceffaries ; and hired a Janizary, with two grooms and a cook, Armenians. One horfe carried our baggage. We fet out on the thirtieth of September, and were ablent until the twenty ninth of October. The weather, which had favoured us, then became rainy and bad, but foon changed again to mild and agreeable. The happy temperature of the climate of Ionia in ge- neral has been much celebrated by the antients. At Smyrna, the houfes, except thofe eredled by the Europeans, have feldom chimnies or fire-places in the rooms. In cold weather it is ufual to place a pan of charcoal beneath a table, over which a carpet or handfome counterpane is fpread, the fides reaching to the floor. This is called a Tendour. The family lit rounds warming their legs and hands under the cover. As winter advanced, the iky, which in fummer is raoft re- markably clear and ferene, varied ; and we had alternately fun- ihine and rain. Southerly winds chiefly prevailed, bringing clouds on the mountains, from which proceeded thunder and lightening. The ihowers renew the verdure, which in the middle of December was as fine as I ever faw, with marigolds and ane- monies fpringing fpontaneoufly from the turf beneath the olive- trees in great profulion. At the fame time thickets of myrtle in bloflbm adorned the waife ; and in the gardens the golden fruit glittered among the deep-green leaves of the orange trees. The foutherly quarter is warm as well as wet ; but the flowers, which it produces, inflantly droop and wither before the north- erly and eafterly winds. Thefe in fummer are hot, coming over parched plains and naked mountains expofed to the fun ; but TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 79 but at this feafon are extremely bleak and penetrating, and bring mow on the diftant hills ; that or fleet rarely falling in the champaign country or vallies. The north-eafr. is often attended with heavy rain, without thunder. In the coldeft day we felt, our thermometer was at forty nine ; but in December the fun at times was powerful, and the air fultry : and once in that month, the fame thermometer rofe to eighty in the {hade. We had plenty of daffodils and hyacinths. Early in February the almond trees bloflbmed, arnd rofes and carnations were common and fold about the ftreets. Upon the whole, we enjoyed, ex- cept fome few intervals, an azure fky, with exquifite foftnefs, fuch as cannot be defcribed. A company of cranes, returning from their winter quarters, flew in orderly array over Smyrna, on the ninth of. March, northward. Another foon followed, and then many ; fome by day, when they are feen changing their figure and leader; fome by moon-light, when they are heard, high in air, repeating their noify fignals. At the fame time the bees were obferved to be in motion. Thefe were regarded as fure figns that winter was at an end, and as foretelling fettled weather. I had begun early to prepare for another journey, and fludied to remove or remedy, as far as poflible, the inconveniences we had before experienced, by providing a tent and increafing the number of our attendants and horfes. It was thought proper not to move until the Ramazan or Lent of the Turks, during which they are often four and churlifh, was over ; and the ge- neral change or re-appointment of the governors, which is made in March, had taken place. A rumour, that the plague had appeared in Smyrna, was cur- rent, but not credited ; it often happening that fuch ftories are propagated to ferve a private purpofe, or to difirefs the trade of a rival factory. It was now again aflerted, that a perfon was ill 8o TRAVELS in ASIA MIN OR. ill or dead of the difeafe ; and an Englilli fhip left the bay only half laden. W e had agreed on the thirteenth of March to leave Smyrna on the twenty firft. On the eighteenth we were informed, that our Janizary was unwilling to go then ; Bairam or the Turkiih holidays beginning the next day ; but was ready to fet out with us either before or two days after. We then fixed on the twenty fifth. Between the feventeenth and twentieth we were allured, that four or five perfons more had been at- tacked by the plague, imported, it was faid, from Mufconiii or from Tino, in which iilands and in Scio it was well known die diftemper had reiided for fome time. Thefe accidents dis- concerted us exceedingly, and feemed to threaten a final period to our expedition. It may be imagined that during our abode with the conful, the plague had been a frequent topic of our converfation. We were told, this feafon feldom palled without fome appearance Of it j that often the malady did not fpread, or was partial, and of Ihort duration ; that it was communicated only by con- tact with fome perfon or thing infected ; and that the Franks, who are accounted lefs liable to receive it than the people of the country, continue, unlefs it be very general, their bufi- nefs and recreations as ufual : but on the other hand, the approaching holidays both of the Turks and chriilians made it not improbable that the contagion would be carried to and fro, and that it would foon extend over the whole city and its vicinity. We had before us perfonal danger, and the appre- henfion of a tedious and difagreeable confinement, not with- out its perils, if we remained at Smyrna or in Alia. In fuch fituations as thefe even extreme timidity fcarcely deferves cen- fure. Among other expedients, it was propofed to purfue the general plan of our voyage by croffing over to Athens, and returning in autumn, when the plague Ihould have ceafed ; but this meafure too had its rifques and inconveniencies ; and at length, as the places fufpe&ed were only Smyrna and Per- gamo TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 81 gamo, after due deliberation, we refolved to proceed on our intended journey. W e quitted the conful's houfe on Monday the twenty fifth of March, O. S. 1765, attended by a Swifs and fome Arme- nian fervants, with a mule and horfes carrying provifion cherts, utenuls for cooking, our tent, bedding, and other requifites ; all together forming a very motley caravan or procefTion, headed by a Janizary. The Frank families had then ihut up, as it is termed, or had retired into the country for fecurity from the infection. We did not return to Smyrna until the eighth of Auguft. Some occurences, which will be related, made it prudent to contract this journey within a much narrower out-line than was previoufly defigned. The former falling in with it and both together completing our furvey of thefe parts as far as we found practicable, we mall unite them in our narrative ; this method enabling us to follow nearly the courfe of the country : beginning with the latter, which was the raoft extenfive, and marking their mutual coincidence, with the different feafons, in which they were performed. CHAP. XXIII. Sea-coaji of Ionia — Vourla reputed Clazomene — The Olive- groves — Vejiiges of an ant tent bridge — The Agamemnonian hot Baths — Their prefent fate — Ifhmus of the Peninfula — The dike cut by Alexander — Villages — The town of Vourla. THE fea-coaft of Ionia extended from Phocea and the Her- mus fouthward to Pofidium, a promontory of the Milefians, and to the Carian mountains. The (hape was irregular, it abounding in bays and peninfulas. The cities were all originally maritime; L their 82 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. their number on the continent ten, befides Smyrna; their filia- tion as uncommonly fine as their climate. It has been faid of this region, that it boafted temples, fuch as were poffefled by no other country, and many wonders hardly exceeded even in Hellas or Greece. The city of Ionia next to Smyrna was Clazomene. As this place was within the gulf, on the fouth-fide, and the diftance antiently reckoned only twelve miles, we fuppofed the fite known to the people of Smyrna, and the modern name to be, as they informed us, Vourla, We refolved therefore to begin our fecond journey with that town, difiant by computation fix hours; hoping, if the plague did not ceafe at Smyrna during our abfence, we might at leaft efcape its fury ; and expecting to obtain fecurity and fatisfaction in proportion as we re- moved from the feat of infection and of its fure concomitant, mortality. We iet out from Smyrna at eight in the morning, on the twenty fifth of March, and pafiing through the lower por- tion of the city, crofled the mouth of the dry port to a road between the burying-grounds on the hill and the fea. There, on the right hand, near the end of the graves, may be feen a piece of tefiellated pavement running under the bank. After going over a bare craggy ridge, we turned wefhvard into a wood of olives, in which we remarked many trees with huge knotty trunks indicating extreme old age. The green level was enamelled with anemonies and other beautiful flowers. The iky was clear and ferene, and the breeze gentle and deli- cioufly foft. The Europeans refort to thefe groves on (hooting parties in boats from the town, or with their families for plea- fure and the benefit of the air. W e came now to a mallow river, over which is a lofty bridge intended to fecure a paflage to the traveller when tor- rents defcend from the adjacent mountain, formerly called Corax. On this principally the clouds fcen from Smyrna re- fide, when the wind is foutherly. Nearer the foot are vefliges of TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 83 of an antient bridge, of which the piers were rebuilt or re- paired before its final ruin j and in one of them is a maimed Corinthian capital. I once purfued the ftream a confiderable way into the mountain. It flowed rapid and tranfparent over the rough folid rock, its courfe deep-funk between fhaggy fum- mits, whofe fides are almoft perpendicular, and inacceffible even to goats; a crouded flock then browfing below. We met, befides thefe and their keepers, a peafant or two by a little over-fhot mill, the wretched tenants of this folemn and finking recefs. Some fragments of architecture in the Turkifh burying- grounds not far from hence, it is likely, belonged, with the relique above-mentioned, to the temple of Apollo once feated on the weftern bank of this ftream, by the hot Baths'. Thefe have been computed forty ftadia or five miles from the city, and were called the Agamemnonian, by the people of Smyrna. It is related, that the army under Agamemnon ravaging Myfia was engaged by Telephus near the river Caicus ; that many of the Greeks were wounded in the battle ; that an oracle directed them for a cure to thefe waters ; and that here the helmets taken from the enemy were fufpended 2 . The old re- mains of the buildings are of brick, the mafonry good, but foil and rubbiih have rifen to the imports of the arches, which are clofed. You defcend by fteps to the bath, which is under a modern vaulted roof, with vents in it for the fteam ; and adjoin- ing to this, is a like room now difufed. The current, which is foft and limpid, is conveyed into a fmall round bafin of marble, and runs over into a large ciftern or refervoir beneath. Our thermometer role in the vein to one hundred and fifty. Near it is a duct, which fupplies a cold ftream, but in January, when I faw it, was dry. A quantity of coagulated blood lay on the pavement. I was informed a £heep had been killed iStrabo, p. 645. 2 Philoftratu? , p. 664. L 2 above. 84 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. above, and that fubftance ufed inftead of foap in (having, which operation is often performed in the baths. The warm rill emerges in two or more places in the bed of the river, and in cool weather may eafily be difcovered, a thick mill riling from it vilible afar off. After paffing the river and Sangiac caftle, we came to the fea-fide, and to a coffee-hut, at which we alighted and tar- ried twenty minutes. At one we opened the Ifthmus or neck of the peninfula, the fouthern boundary of the gulf. The Clazomenians antiently inhabited on the north-fide, bordering on the Erythreans, who were within it. The Teians were on the fouth, with a port north of their city. Hitherto our courfe wefhvard had been chiefly beneath the northern termination of Mount Cor ax. The Ifthmus appears as a wide pleafant valley, and the land being moftly level, we could difcern acrofs it the blue tops of the ifland Samos. Its width * was reckoned fifty ftadia or fix miles and a quarter ; and the periplus or cir- cumnavigation of the peninfula, a thoufand ftadia or one hun- dred twenty five miles. The diftance of Smyrna from Ephefus in a ftrait line was only three hundred and twenty ftadia or forty miles ; but, if you coafted, near two thoufand two hundred ftadia or two hundred and feventy five miles ; owing principally to this peninfula. Alexander the Great, to render the communication eafier, ordered, that a navigable cut fliould be made through the plain here, intending to join the two bays, and by converting the whole Cherronefe into an ifland to furround the city Erythrae and Mount Mimas with the fea. A dike or canal running up the valley is a monu- ment of that attempt, which failed, when the workmen came to the rock. We pafled it over a bar of fand at the mouth. The Inbat blowing frefh, and the waves dafhing over, two of our horfes ftarted afide, floundered deep, and wetted our bag- gage. A like accident in fording another water afterwards oc- cafioned fome delay. * i In Pliny feven miles and an half. We TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 85 We continued our journey along the fliore. The hills on our left were covered with low fhrabs, and villages, fomeof a clean dry afpect, and feveral not immediately difcernible, though near,* the mud-built cottages being exactly of the fame colour with the foil. As we approached Vourla, the little vallies were all green with corn, or filled with naked vine -flocks in orderly ar- rangement, about a foot and a half high. The people were working, many in a row, turning the earth, or encircling the trunks with tar, to fecure the buds from grubs and worms. The fhoots, which bear the fruit, are cut down again in winter. We faw another fpecies, which produces very large grapes, running up and fpreading on the branches of trees planted for their fup- port. A mart like Smyrna diffufes cultivation through all its vicinity. Vourla is diftinguifhed at a diftance by its numerous wind- mills. On entering the town, we faw nobody, the houfes were fhut up, and a filence and folitude prevailed, which, before we recollected what we had lately feen, fuggefted to us the terrible idea, that the inhabitants had left it, to avoid the cruel diftemper from which we alfo were flying. It is a place of confiderable ex- tent, the buildings difperfed on eminences; with a pleafant plain toward the fea. The water and air are reputed good. The Turks have feven mofques, and the Greeks two churches. At one of thefe is a fmall bafs-relief, reprefenting a funereal fupper, with a fhort infcription «. Another is fixed in the wall over a fountain. We were recommended by letter to an Italian, a prac- titioner in phyfic, who attended us about the town, and fhewed us every civility in his power. A curfory view of this place was fufficient to convince us that it did not fland on the fite of Cla-« zomene. I Infcript. Ant. p. 6. CHAP. S6 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. CHAP. XXIV. We fearch for Clazomene — Difcover the mole — Pafs over — Tb Jlte — JJlets — We re-pafs — Origin of Vourla. W e were aflifted by the friendly Italian in our enquiries for a ruined city in that neighbourhood, and in the evening procured a man to condud: us, as we fuppofed, to the fite of Clazomene. We fet out early in the morning, when he carried us back to the opening of the Ifthmus, and mowed us, for Clazomene, a piece of ordinary wall, which has inclofed a cittern on the top of a hill ; with fome fcattered rubbifh on the Hope. There, it is likely, was antiently the fettlement of the Chalcideniians, probably a colony from Chalcis in Eubcea, belonging to Clazo- mene. Above them was a grove facred to Alexander the Great, where the games called Alexandria were celebrated by the Ionian body. Finding our guide ignorant and at a lofs which way to go, we adopted the furer direction of antient hiitory; remember- ing, that the Clazomenians, to be more fecure from the Per- fians, had fettled in an ifland, which, by command of Alexander, was afterwards changed into a peninfula by the addition of a mole. We croffed the plain of Vourla, flanting toward the fea, and foon difcovered this monument alfo of that great mind, which delighted in correcting or fubduing nature by rilling up or forming paths for the deep; which here ftill bore vifible marks of his royal pleafure, and now raged, as it were indignant but in vain, againfi the barrier, which he had appointed. The mole was two ftadia or a quarter of a mile in length, but we were ten minutes in croffing it; the waves, which were impelled by a flrong Inbat, breaking over in a very formidable manner, as high as the bellies of ourhorfes. The width as we con- TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 87 conjectured, was about thirty feet. On the weft fide, it is fronted with a thick ftrong wall, fome pieces appearing above the water. On the oppofite is a mound of loofe pebbles, fhelving as a but- trefs, to withftand the furious affaults of ftorm and tempeft. The upper works have been demolifhed, and the materials, a few large rough ftones excepted, removed. We computed the ifland to be about a mile long, and a quarter broad. The city was fmall, its port on the N. N. W. lide. Traces of the walls are found by the fea, and in a hill are veftiges of a Theatre. Three or four trees grow on it, and by one is a cave ' hewn in the rock, and affording water. The foil was now covered with green corn. A vaulted room with a chimney at one end, and a hovel or two made with ftones piled, are all the prefent ftruclures ; and thefe are chiefly frequented by fifhermen and by perfons employed to watch and to drive away birds, when the grain ripens. Referring to this confined fituation of Clazomene, a famous fophift, when importuned to adorn his native city by refiding in it rather than at Smyrna, re- plied, the nightingale refufes to Jing in a cage. By Clazomene is a clufter of iilets 2 , all once cultivated, now neglected and barren. Their number was eight, but I could count only fix. One is called Long IJland, and by fome the Eng- lijh I/Iand, becaufe, as they relate, a party of our countrymen from Smyrna landing on it for their diverfion, were attacked fuddenly and murdered there by banditti or pirates. Some of thefe iflets, and perhaps even of the CEnuflae without the gulf, may owe their origin or increafe to the river Hermus. 1 A cave is mentioned by Paufanias p. an. It is thus defcribed by Randolph. Nothing remains but the cave, which is cut out of firm rock, almoft fquare, fup- ported with four pillars of the fame rock. To the eaftward is part of an altar, and in the middle is a well, but the water is brackifh, and not fit to be drank. State of the ijlands in the Archipelago. 1 687. 2Three of them were called Marathufa, Pele, Drymufa. It is probable the names of all of them are contained in a paflage of Pliny, 1. 5. c. 37. company 88 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. After making the circuit of the ifland, we fat down by the Ifthmus to dine, when our attention was engaged by a large company landed at the fcale or road of Vourla, which is weft- ward from the mole, and had in it fome fmall-craft, with a few houfes and a mofque on the (bore. An irregular difcharge of guns and piftols followed, in compliment, as our guide told us, to the new Aga or governor, who was then arrived. In the mean time the Inbat increafed very faft, as ufual toward funfet, and with it the fwell of the fea. We began to with, that we had repafTed the mole as foon as our curiofity was gratified ; and to apprehend, that without a fpeedy removal, we might be de- tained much longer on this deferted fpot than we mould like. Our horfes were fhy of the furf, and one of our company in- clining too much to the left to avoid it got into deep water, but ibon recovered the track. Among the caufes, which have co-operated in bringing on the general defolation of thefe coafts, may be numbered the out- rages fuffered from licentious pirates under a weak or bad go- vernment, and the hoftilities committed by privateers. The for- mer have in all ages infefted thefe feas ; encouraged by the fre- quent creeks and portlets j where they may lie unnoticed, look- ing out for their prey from eminences, which command ex ten- five views of the canals between the iflands ; or ready, on the approach of a fuperior force, to abandon their vefTels and efcape to the mountains. The Clazomenians, molefted, it is faid, by Corfairs of Tino, retired from the fea to the continent, where they were lefs liable to be furprized. Many other places owe their origin to the fame motives of apprehenlion and prudence as Vourla. CHAP, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 89 CHAP. XXV. Of the Kara-borniotes Mount Mimas Night — Arrive at Erythrcs- — The Jit 'e — IJlets — Remains . BEYOND Clazomene the peninfula becoming very- mountainous, with narrow and difficult paries, affords many places of refuge, inacceffible, or eafily defended. Hence the Kara-borniotes, or inhabitants of the fouthern cape of the gulf, were long infamous as pirates and robbers, and had the general character of a very bad people. We were now told,' that their manners were changed, and their difpofition lefs ferocious and inhuman -, that they attend to the culture of the vine and the management of the filk-worm, and frequent the market of Smyrna with the produce. We thought it prudent, however, to increafe our guard and hire another Janizary, in- tending to go to Erythras, now corruptly called Ritre, and reckoned eight hours diftant. We fet out from Vourla early in the morning, and in an hour, after croffing a fmall promontory, came to the bottom of a deep bay, which, with an ifland in it, is almoft land-locked, lying immediately within the cape. We then afcended a ridge of mount Mimas -, and pairing a ftream, entered on a rugged nar- row track between very lofty cliffs and by the fide of a water- courfe frightfully fteep. We were engaged in this ftrait four hours, our baggage-horfes falling, or being jammed with their burthens, where the rocks projected. At length we arrived in view of a plain deep-funk among the hills, which furround it. Before us was a gray ridge feen at Smyrna ; and a little on the left, a top of the ifland Scio ; behind us were the two white .conical fummits of mount Corax called The Brothers, which ferve as a fea-direction in navigating the gulf. We defcended to Cer- M hardam, 90 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. hardam, a Turkifh village, where we alighted about three in the afternoon. We had propofed paffing the night here, as our men and horfes were weary, but could get neither lodging nor corn. After dining beneath a tree, we continued our journey acrofs a ridge to Cadoagi, a fmall place near an hour farther on. Here we had our tent pitched for the firff. time within an inclofure by a cottage, and flept in it. Our bedding was a fmall carpet, mattrefs, and coverlet. Each had by his fide a gun, fword, and a pair of loaded piltols. The Swifs guarded the mouth of the tent. The nights were as yet cold, and our Janizary was provided with a cloke of a dark colour, ihaggy, and very thick, made without a feam, with a cape or rather cowl for his head. Wrapped in this, he lay down like Diomed in his bull-fkin, in the open air, with his piftol and fabre by him, and his gun in his hand. Our other attendants were likewife difperfed, moftly on the ground, round about the tent, armed as by day; and one of the Armenians watched the horfes, which were faflened to flakes with their faddles on. At the dawn of day we rofe, and a table-cloth was fpread on the ground, when we breakfafted on dried figs, bread, butter, which we carried with us, and garlic ; drinking wine or water, and a cup of coffee. In the mean time our men ftruck the tent, and got ready our baggage. The fun only began to appear on the mountain-top, and a low ihining mift like water, concealed the valley beneath us, when we began our journey ; travelling over and between the wild ridges of mount Mimas. In two hours we came to a vale, well watered, and flored with myrtles and ever-greens. Here we obferved fome pieces of an antient wall, which had been erected acrofs it ; and after pafling the ruin of a mofque, which has a fepulchral infcription fixed over the door way, an opening afforded us a view of the fite of Erythra?, of the fea, and of the ifland Scio. We entered at a gap in the ruins of the city-wall, where we fuppofed a gate-way to have been j and finding no (hade, pitched TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 91 pitched our tent on a green fpot, extending it as a wide um- brella to melter us from the fun, then mining exceedingly bright and powerful. The walls of Erythrae were erefted on two femicircular rocky brows, and had fquare towers at regular distances. They were very thick, the (tones mamve and rugged, the mafonry that called Pfeudifodomum. In the middle is a {hallow lively ftream, clear as chryftal, which turns a folitary mill in its way through thickets of myrtle and bufhes to the fea. This rivulet was antiently named Aleos, and was remarkable for producing hair on the bodies of thofe who drank of it 1 . Near the mouth is a piece of ordinary mofaic pavement. By a conical hill on the north are veftiges of an ample theatre in the mountain-lide ; and farther on, by the fea, three pedeftals of white marble. Beyond thefe is an old fquare fortrefs ftanding on a low fpot, a little inland ; and by it was a fhort fepulchral infeription. We fearched in vain for a temple of Hercules, which has been mentioned as one of the higheft antiquity, and as refembling the temples of Egypt. The God was reprefented on a float, on which they related that he arrived at Erythrae from Phoenicia 2 . Before the port of Erythrae are four iflets, once called Hippi, The Horfes ; and beyond thefe are the Spalmadore iflands, by which we failed in our ftormy parTage from Scio to Kara-bornu. A promontory of mount Mimas beyond Erythrae was named Coryna ; and one near mid- way failing toward Scio, Hera Mefate. The fhore winds and forms feveral bays. Erythr^ has been long deferted, and, like Clazomene, (tripped even of its ruins, except fome maffes of hard cement, a few vaults of fepulchres, a fragment of inferibed architrave, a broken column or two, and a large (tone, on which is carved a j Pliny 1. 31. x. 2Paufanias p. 210. M 2 /ound 02 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. round fhield. The bare rock afforded a natural foundation for the houfes and public edifices ; and the materials, when they were ruined, lay ready to be tranfported to Scio and other places, which continued to flouri(h. Some words were vifible on one of the pedeftals. We would have cleared them all from weeds and rubbifh, which concealed their infcriptions ; but our guide had affirmed, that we could not pafs the night here without danger ; our horfes were flanding ready, and we had no time to fpare. CHAP. XXVI. Of the peninfula — Chifme — Mount Corycus — Mount Mimas — End of the peninfula— At Segigeck — Antiquities — Cra?ies. ERYTHRiE was about mid- way in the periplus or cir- cumnavigation of the peninfula. It had to the north a village named Cybellia, and the cape, by which was a quarry dug for mill-ftones. The lofty mountain to the fouth was called Corycus, and its promontory Argennum. This ran out to- ward Pofidium, a promontory of Chios, from which it was fe- parated by a (trait about fixty ftadia or feven miles and an half wide. In Corycus a cave was fhown, in which they laid the Sibyl Herophile was born. Its coaft had feveral ports, and was- much infefted by pirates and robbers. After Corycus was Gerae, a fmall town of the Teians by the port north of their city. The third tribe of the Erythreans had its name from a region called Chalcitis, peopled with Chalcidenfians ; and the fea- baths by a cape of that diflridt were efteemed fuperior fo any in Ionia. We had been told that at Chifme, a town fince noted for the deftru&ion of the Turkifh navy by the Ruffians, and diftant TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 93 diftant about five hours from Erythrae, were fpacious and handfome baths eredted by the Genoefe. We had intended feeing them, but were now informed that the place was almoft abandoned, the plague having been carried thither from Scio Our guide, at fetting out, conducted us to the more ; and winding fouthward, we afcended a lofty ridge of mount Corycus, from which we had an extenfive view of the coaft, of the channel of Scio, and of the gulf of Smyrna. The Brothers were before us, and behind us Chifme. The mountain was covered with low fhrubs. We then defcended to the ftation of fome goatherds, guarded by feveral large and fierce dogs. In three hours and a half we came unexpectedly to the village on mount Mimas, where we lay the pre- ceding night. The valley beneath us, and the fide of the mountain, were again envelloped in thick fhining mifr., when we began our journey; and keeping along the fouthern edge of a plain, reafcended mount Mimas, which the antients have defcribed as woody and abounding in wild hearts. The Hopes here were clothed with pines and fhrubs, and gar- nifhed with flowers, many of a bright yellow, refembling fmall fingle pinks. The hogs had rooted up the green corn in feveral places. At noon we came to the bay, which we palled in going to Erythrasj and finking off to the right, difmounted to dine under fome fhady trees by a copious fountain. We had fufFered much from the fun, and were greatly fatigued. After enjoying awhile the luxury of cool water and made, we continued our journey, leaving Vourla and the villages on our left hand. As we croffed the mountain, the ifland Samos rofe to view at a diftance, and we opened the fea on the fouth- fide of the pcninfula. We paffed many fmall pleafant fpots, well watered, and green with corn, or with myrtles and fhrubs. We defcended from mount Mimas by a road cut in the rock, which 94 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR which antiently divided the Erythrean territory from the Clazo- menian. Here the peninfula ends. The way from hence, or from the beginning of the Ifthmus on the fouth, to Clazomene, was over mount Mimas to Chytrium, originally the fite of that city, and now, it feems of Vourla. We rode on, and after three hours arrived at Segigeck, which was before us, by the head of a mining bay, land-locked, with an iflet near the mouth. We were civilly received by a party of men and boys, who were gathered about the gate on our ap- proach, and directed to the interior fortrefs, which was much out of repair. Here we were lodged in an apartment over the gate-way, belonging to the Aga or governor, who was abfent on a vifit of ceremony to a fuperior officer, attended by moft of the garrifon. Our horfes, fervants, and baggage, were difpofed in the area or court below. Segigeck is a large fquare ordinary fortrefs, erected, it is faid, by the Genoefe, on a fiat ; with a few brafs* cannon toward the fea. It was antiently called Gerae, was the port of the city Teos toward the north, and had been peopled with Chalci- denfians, who arrived under Geres. It inclofes fome mean mud-built houfes. In the wall next the water are feveral in- fcribed marbles, the colour a blue-gray, tranfported from Teos. Another is fixed in a fountain without the fouth gate. In the hot bath are two large fragments placed upiide down, and lerving for feats, which I examined, but haftily, fearing fome infection, as the plague was known to be near. All thele have been publifhed by the learned Chifhull. By a mofque and in the burying-grounds are fome fcattered fragments, and a fepul- chral infcription or two 1 . This place is reckoned eight hours from Smyrna. A view of it is given in the Ionian Antiquities. The cranes were now arrived at their refpective quarters, and a couple had made their neft, which is bigger in circumference i Infcript. Ant. p. 6. than TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 95 than a bufhel, on a dome clofe by our chamber. This pair flood, fide by fide, with great gravity, fhewing no concern at what was tranfa&ing beneath them, but at intervals twifting about their long necks, and clattering with their beaks turned behind them upon their backs, as it were in concert. This was continued the whole night. An owl, a bird alfo unmolefted, was perched hard by, and as frequently hooted. The crane is tall, like a heron, but much larger ; the body white, with black pinions, the neck and legs very long, the head fmall, and the bill thick. The Turks call it friend and brother, believing it has an affection for their nation, and will accompany them into the countries they fhall conquer. In the courfe of our journey we faw one hopping on a wall with a fingle leg, the maimed ftump wrapped in linen. CHAP. XXVII. Situation of Teos — Remains — The port, &c. — The temple of Bacchus — Teos defer ted. — A Venetian veffel. SEGIGECK ftands on the north fide of the Ifthmus of a fmall rough peninfula, which extends wefhvard, and terminates in a fharp low point. This perhaps was the cape once called Macria, by which were the baths of the Teians, fome on the fhore in a cavity of the rock or natural, and fome made by art and from oflentation. Teos was thirty ftadia or three miles and three quarters from Gerae, and fronted thefeaon the fouth fide. It was equidiftant from Erythrae and Chios, fixty one miles and a half from each by the coaft. In the morning we croffed the Ifthmus to Teos, now called Bodrun. We found this city almoft as defolate as Erythrae and Clazomene. The walls, of which traces are extant, were, as we gueffed, about five miles in circuit ; the mafonry handfome. Without them, by the way, are vaults of fepulchres fhripped of their marble, as it were forerunners of more indiftinct ruin. o6 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. ruin. Inftead of the {lately piles, which once impreifed ideas of opulence and grandeur, we faw a marfh, a field of barley in ear, buffaloes ploughing heavily by defaced heaps and proftrate edifices, high trees fupporting aged vines, and fences of {tones and rubbiih, with illegible infcriptions, and time- worn fragments. It was with difficulty we difcovered the temple of Bacchus, but a Theatre in the fide of the hill is more conspicuous. The vault only, on which the feats ranged, re- mains, with two broken pedeftals in the area. It fronted icm. weft of fouth. The city-port is partly dry, and fand banks rife above the furface of the water. On the edge are veftiges of a wall, and before it are two fmall iflets. On the left hand, or toward the continent, is a channel, which feemed artificial, the water not deep. I faw a boy wade acrofs it. This, unlefs it be the mouth of a rivulet, was probably cut ; for it feems as necefTary to the completion of Alexander's plan, that a communication fliould have been made between the fea here and the bay of Gera?, as. between that and the gulf of Smyrna ; and it is re- markable that Pliny reckons Teos among the iflands. Beyond it, on the fhore before Sevri-hifTar, which ftands inland, are four or five tall barrows. The heap of the temple of Bacchus', which was viiible from the theatre, beneath on the right hand, lay in the middle of a corn field and is over-run with bufhes and olive trees. It was one of the moft celebrated ftrudtures in Ionia. The re- mains of it have been engraved at the expenfe of the fociety of Dilettanti, and publifhed, with its hiftory, in the Ionian Antiquities ; and a beautiful Portico has fince been eredted at the feat of the Right Hon. Lord Le Defpenfer, near High-Wykeham, under the inflection of Mr. Revett, in which the exact proportions of the order are obferved. The town has long been deferted. It has no ruins of churches, to prove it exifted under the Greek emperors ; nor of mofques or baths, to {how it was frequented by the Turks. In the time of Anacreon, the Teians migrated from a love of liberty TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 97 liberty to Thrace, but fome afterwards came back, and the city re-flourifhed. They are now utterly gone, and it is likely never to return. The fite is a wildernefs ; and the low grounds, which are wet, produce the iris or flag, blue and white. This flower is ftamped on the money of Teos. We faw cranes here ftalking fingly in the corn and grafs, and pick- ing up and gorging infetts and reptiles j or flying heavily with long flicks in their mouths to the tops of trees, and of the re- moter houfes and chimnies, on which they had agreed to fix their habitation. The mafter of a Venetian fnow, in the harbour of Segigeck, furnifhed us with a finall quantity of wine, but of a poor qua- lity j otherwife we fhould have drank only water on a lpot once facred to Bacchus, and able to fupply a Roman fleet. The grave Turk, its prefent owner, predefines the clutters of the few vines it now bears, for his food, when ripened ; or to be dried in the fun, as raifins, for fale. CHAP. XXVIII. To Sevri-hiffar — — Quarries of marble — - The town --— The Dionyfiajis, &c. OUR apprehenfions of danger from the Kara-borniotes were now at an end. We difmified the Janizary, whom we had engaged at Vourla, and on the evening of the fecond day after our arrival, proceeded to Sevri-hifTar, diftant -one hour fouth-eaflward. We came, foon after leaving Segigeck, between two conical rocks, one of a green afpedt, the other brown and bare. The tall trees by the road-fide were covered with fpreading vines, and at a well was a marble pedeflal perforated, and ferving as a mouth. The front of it is infcribed with large characters 1 , and it once fupported the ilnfcript. Ant. p. 7. N flatuc 98 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. ftatue of a great and munificent perfon, whofe name it has not preferved. The gray marble ufed by the Teians was found at no great diftance from the city. The rocks above-mentioned are probably remains of the quarry, to which alfo the high rocky mount, about a mile north of Teos, feen in the view in the Ionian Antiquities, helonged. This, as Pococke relates, has, on the weft-fide, a fmall lake in a deep bafin, which, it is imagined by the people, feeds all the fountains about the country ; and to the fouth of the lake is a hollow ground, where are near twenty large pieces of gray marble, each cut out into feveral fteps, of a lize which would be very difficult to move. On one he faw infcribed, loco mi. Sevri-hissar is an extenfive ftraggling town, in a valley, two hours from the fea ; and may be deemed the Vourla of the Teians. The country round it is pleafant and well cul- tivated. The Greeks, though numerous, have no church. We were lodged in a wretched mud-built khan, by which is a lively brook, running weft-north- weft ward. A ftone bridge has been erecled over it, and feveral piers remain. We had crofted it more than once on the way from Segigeck. We had here reafon to diflike, and to be alarmed, at the car- riage of fome of our Turkilh vifitants, but the Janizary was our fafe-guard. Many fcattered remnants of the antient citv occur at J Sevri-hiftar 1 . One fixed in the wall of a houfe mentions the two focieties, the Panathenaifts and the Dionyfiafts. At the time of the Ionic migration a colony of Athenians took pofleffion of Teos. Thefe appear to have introduced the Panathensa, the grand feftival of their parent city. A crown of olive encircles the name of the community, which had the care of its celebration ; and one of ivy that of the ilnfcript. Ant. p. 7. p. 8. p. 10. Dionyfiafts, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 99 Dionyfiafts, who were artificers, or contractors for the Afiatic theatres, incorporated and fettled at Teos under the kings of Pergamum 1 . I copied a long decree made by one of their com- panies in honour of its magiftrates. The flab was placed as a grave-ftone in a Turkifh burying-ground, where the man, who fhewed it me, with fome afliftance, laid it flat, and a heavy fhower falling rendered the characters, which are large and uninjured, eafily legible. The thanks of the community, with a crown of olive, are given as a recompenfe for their great liberality and trouble in office ; and to perpetuate their memory and excite an emulation of their merit, it is befides enacted, that the decrees be engraved, but at their expenfe : fo deferable was this teftimony to the individuals, and fo frugal the ufage ia beftowing it, CHAP. XXIX. We arrive at Hypfile — I'he Myonnefus — Hypfile a Jlrong-hold. THE next day, April the firfl, in the afternoon, the weather proving fair, we continued our journey fouthward ; and, foon after fetting out, had a low mountain on our left hand, with an opening in it, and a wide but dry water- courfe, which we crofTed, and then paffed over hills and dales by fmall inclofures regularly planted with oaks. Many of thefe fupported vines, and between the rows was barley in ear and other grain. The valanea or large acorns which they produce, are exported, chiefly to Italy, where the tanners ufe them inftead of bark. Coming to the fhore, we turned a little to the left, and afcended a very lofty hill, commanding a moft extenfive view of a picturefque country, of the fea-coaft, and iflands. Near the top is a fountain, and over it a flone, on which is cut the Greek crofs. We alighted i Strabo, p. 643. N 2 after ioo TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. after a pleafant ride of three hours at Hypfile, and were very well lodged in a large apartment, in a houfe belonging to a Turk of Sevri-hifiar. We are now on the promontory, antiently called Myonnefus 1 , between Teos and Lebedus. The fummit has been defcribed as conical, and {landing on an ample bale. It was acceflible from the continent by a narrow track only, and was terminated toward the fea by wave-worn rocks, hanging over, and in fome places projecting beyond the veflels, to which it fur- nifhed a fafe ftation below. The Myonnefus was the property of the Teians. Hypsile is a fmall village. The name, which is Greek, denotes its lofty lituation. It was the ftrong-hold, to which Cineis, whom we have mentioned in a preceding chapter, re- tired before the army of Sultan Morat, and which he main- tained gallantly, until his men began to mutiny. After fur- rendering, he was murdered here, lleeping in his tent. CHAP. XXX. Hot waters—In the territory of Lebedus — Some ruins — Lebe- dus — The ijland Afpis—Tke Dionyjiajls. W E left Hypfile at eight in the morning, and in about an hour defcended into a narrow bottom, which was filled with a thick fmoke or mift, occafioned, as we difcovered on a nearer approach, by {learn arifing from a fmall tepid brook, called Elijah; the bed of a deep green colour. The current, which tafled like copperas, is confined in a narrow channel below, and turns two over-mot mills, falling foon after i In D'Anville's chart, Pfili-foureun, corruptly for Hypjilofoum, The high Maintain. into TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 101 into a ftream, then fhallow, but flowing from a rich vale be- tween the mountains, in a very wide courfe ; the bed of ftone and white fand. We are now hi the territory of Lebedus, which was noted, beyond any on the fea-coaft, for hot waters, Thefe are on record as plentiful, beneficial to the human race, and exciting admiration. The ftream now fupplies two mean baths on the margin, one with a large crofs carved on a ftone in the pave- ment, and chiefly ufed by the Greeks. From the Baths we were conducted tofome ruins called Ec- clefia, The Church, about half an hour diftant, on the fame fide of the river, and beneath the mountain we had defcended, or Myonnefus. They confifted of naked mafles of ftone and of brick, with cement, befides a very few marble frag- ments -, and a bafement, with the entire floor, of a fmall temple -, the whole environed with bufhes. I rode on about a quarter of a mile to the fea, but found no port or other vef- tiges of buildings. We returned to the road, and crofllng a cultivated plain, with a ftream or two, came in an hour and a half to the fea, and a little peninfula fown with wheat. It has a fair beach, and probably is the fpot on which Lebedus flood. By the rocky edge are traces of antient wall ; and within it, befides rubbifh, are fome pieces of doric columns. This city enjoyed a fertile territory, but was fubverted by Lyfimachus, who re- moved the inhabitants when he peopled Ephefus to the fea. It furvived long as a village, and became, as it were, pro- verbial for its folitude. It is now untenanted, and not even a village. St R a bo has mentioned an ifland called Afpis, and by fome Arconnefus, between Teos and Lebedus ; that, I fuppofe, which bore T)y our compafs 68m. weft of fouth from this fpot, and which Pococke defcribes as a long ifland, about the middle of the bay, ftretching to the fouth -weft, and now I02 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. now called Carabafh, The black Sa/h, from fome Imaginary re- femblance. It is omitted in D'Anville's chart of the fea-coalt of Afia Minor. The Dionyfiafts mentioned in a preceding chapter, proving turbulent and feditious, were expelled Teos. They removed to Ephefus, and from thence were translated by King Attalus to Myonnefus. The Teians fent an embaffy to the Romans, re- questing them not to fuffer the Myonnefus to be fortified ; and the Dionyliafts then removed to Lebedus, where they were re- ceived with joy. It was the cuftom of their Synod to hold yearly a general affembly, at which they facrificed to the gods, and poured libations to their deceafed benefactors. They like- wife celebrated games in honour of Bacchus. The crowns, which any of the communities had beftowed as rewards of merit, were announced by heralds ; and the wearers applauded. It was the bufinefs of the prefidents to provide fplendid enter- tainments, and the meeting was folemnized with great pomp and feftivity. This congrefs, it is probable, was held at the ruins defcribed above, and that temple dedicated to the God their patron. CHAP. XXXI. We crofs a torrent — Afcend mount Gallefus — Arrive at Zille or Claros — Remains — Of the oracle and temple of Apollo — Of the oracular fountain and cave — Of Colophon, Notium, and Claros No remains of the two former-— We arrive at Ephefus. LEBEDUS was equidiftant, one hundred and twenty ftadia or fifteen miles, from Teos and from Colophon, near which city was Claros. We proceeded with an iflet in view before us, once facred to Diana. It was antiently believed, that Does, when TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 163 when big, fwam acrofs from the continent, and were there de- livered of their young. Our guide miflook the track, and conducted us an hour out of our way. We paffed through lanes, olive-groves, and corn. In two hours and a half we were fuddenly flopped by a wide and very turbid river, de- fcending from between mount Gallefus or The Alemdn, and the fouthern extremity of mount Corax, the range, which had continued on our left hand from hear Teos. It is impoffible perhaps to conceive greater vifible rapidity, the water hurrying by with fo precipitous and head-long a courfe, it was gone like an arrow from a bow. Our guide, after fome hefitation, entered the ftream, which proved fhallow, reaching only to the belly of his horfe. We were apprehenfive a low mule, heavily laden with baggage, would be carried away, but it ftruggled through, and we all got over fafe. We tarried the night at a village an hour farther on, high on the moun- tain-fide, and overlooking a rich plain and the lea to the ifland Samos. In the morning, the wind, which had been northerly for fome time, was very cutting. We rode among the roots of Gallefus, through pleafant thickets abounding with gold-finches. The aerial fummits of this immenfe mountain towered on our left, clad with pines. We turned from the fea, and began to afcend a rough track between green hills • a clear ftream falling by in murmuring cafcades. At a diftance was a village, which appeared almoft in the clouds. Steep fucceeded fteep, as we advanced, and the path became more narrow, flippery, and un- even. We were inftrudted to let our bridle be loofe, to fit fteady, and to prevent the faddle from Aiding back by grafping the manes of our horfes, while they clambered up ; their known furenefs of foot our confidence and fecurity by fearful precipices and giddy heights ; where, if, from being checked or by accident, they chance to fall, down you tumble many a fathom, without one friendly bufh or fhrub to interpofe and contribute to your prefervation. After much labour and ftraining, we got to the top of the ridge, which is exceedingly high. Here We found the furface bare, except a few pines on one fummit, beneath which fome miferable cattle were ftanding, feemingly 104 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. feemingly pinched with hunger, and ruminating on the wretchednefs of their lot. We faw at a diftance a vaft body of water encompafled with hills, being the lake or refervoir, from which the numerous rills and rivulets on the fides of the mountain are fed. Farther in the country was a white top gliftening with fnow; and nearly before us, a fummit remarkably craggy, which is by the lake of Myus, and will be often men- tioned. Several of our horfes were lamed in this journey to the fky, which was attended with many moanings from the Arme- nians their owners. Descending Gallefus, we fuddenly difcovered near the bottom fome mean huts, immediately beneath us, on the decli- vity. We enquired of the inhabitants, who were Greeks, for ruins, and they directed us to Claros, now called Zille, by the fea. We croffed a brook, which is in the middle of a cultivated vale, and entered a thick grove of olives, where fome armed men ftarted up from under a tree, and running to the road, flopped our ferv'ants and baggage-horfes. The Janizary, as foon as we perceived it, gallopped back, and a fhort parley enfued. We were informed they belonged to the Mufelem, a Turkiih officer of great power and extenfive command, refiding at Chili, dis- tant an hour and a half toward Smyrna. Cara-Elez-Oglu then pofTefTed that high dignity. He was famous as an excellent governor, and remarkable for his civility to the Franks or Europeans, We continued our journey to Zille, vshich is by computation four hours from Goomulderu, where we lay; we arrived in fix. W e were apprized of our approach to Zille or Claros by vef- tiges of antient fepulchres on the mountain-fide, clofe by the way, on our left hand. One, which was hewn in the rock, has a narrow door-way leading into it; and within, a long hori- zontal niche or cavity, tranl'verle, for the body. Farther on, and higher up, is a well of fine water ; then full to the brim, and overflowing. This ridge is feparated by a narrow vale from a fmall rocky promontory, which is encompafTed with a ruinous wall of rough flone, the mafonry that termed PJeu- difodomum. TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 105 difodomum. We rode in at a gap or gate-way, and found a Theatre of the fame brown material as the wall, many pieces of marble, wells, and remnants of churches ; and befides thefe, an imperfect time-eaten heap of a large temple. We had a diftincT: view of Aiafaluck, the plain of Ephefus, and the town of Scala Nova. Claros was very early the feat of a temple and oracle of Apollo. It is related, that Chalchas, after the deftruclion of Troy, had an interview there with the prophet Mopfus, and died of grief on finding he was excelled in his profeffion. The perfon, who fuftained this high office, could be taken only from particular families, and was generally of Miletus, unlettered, and ignorant of compofition. He was told only the number and names of the confulters ; and then defcended into a cave, in which was a fiflure with water. After drinking of this fpring, he uttered refponfes in verfes made on the fubjecl:, on which each had thought in his own mind ; but this practice was pre- judicial to his health, perhaps from the dampnefs of the place, and he was commonly lhort-lived. He got by rote, I conceive, or elfe carried down with him, the anfwers ready prepared ; and the god would foon have loft his reputation, had the confulters been fo cunning as to have kept every one his fecret from the agents and fpies employed to dive into their bufinefs. The temple which was unfinifhed, with the facred grove of afti-trees, is mentioned by Paufanias among the curiofities peculiar to Ionia. It is not certain, whether the oracle exifted after Con- ftantine the Great ; or, when Apollo was finally filenced and dethroned; but Chriftianity fucceeded, and has flourifhed in its turn at Claros. In viewing the well on the ridge before-mentioned, I re- marked it had marble fteps leading down from the top ; and four or five were vifible below the furface. The water, which, as a peafant with me affirmed, is very deep, obfcured the re- mainder. There, it may be conjectured, was the prophetic fountain and cave. The pafiage by which the wafte current was conveyed away, has been choked from negledr. or by defign ; and the water, being confined, has filled the hollow of the rock, O and 106 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR and the entrance to it,rifing until it had liberty to efcape over the margin. The iuperftitious ufe ceafed with the reverence for Apollo ; men unhallowed drinking of it without feeling infpi- ration or dreading punifhment : and, perhaps, to promote a popular oblivion of the place, the enemies of the god, who deftroyed his temple and grove, devifed the prefent alteration, by the eafy and obvious method of converting the cave into a refervoir. Colophon was fituated inland. Before it, befides Claros, was Notium, a town and haven bearing the fame relation to it, as the Piraus did to Athens, and diftant near two miles. It is termed the Colophonian Notium, to diftinguifh it from that of Chios, a portion of the coaft of the ifland, with a road for veflels. Colophon was only feventy ftadia or eight miles and three quarters from Ephefus in a {trait courfe ; but by the windings of the bays, one hundred and twenty ltadia or fifteen miles. Lyfimachus deftroyed it, to enlarge that city ; but fome of the Colophonians remained at Notium, to whom the Ro- mans granted immunities after their war with Antiochus. The Halys or Halefus ran by Colophon ; and then, not far from the grove of Claros. The ftxeam was colder than any in Ionia, and celebrated for that quality by the Elegiac poets. Going out of Colophon, on the left of the road, after you had patted the Calaon, perhaps a brook running into the Halys, was fhewn the burying-place of Andremon, one of the leaders in the Ionic migration ; and on the fame fide of the road in the way to Claros that of the Smyrneans and Colophonians, who fell fighting with the Macedonians under Lyfimachus l . Many difficulties have arifen 3 concerning Claros, Notium, and Colophon, which are removed by this account of their proximity and mutual connection. Colophon was facrificed to the grandeur of its neighbour Ephefus. The name, as at Lebadus, furvived, but without its prifline importance ; and Notium fuffered, as it were, by fympathy. Religion and j Paufanias p. 208. 2 See Cellarius p. 47. p. 48. Apollo TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 107 Apollo interpofed to refcue Claros, and the concourfe of con- fulters and devotees maintained it and the temple. But now Colophon, if its fite be not occupied by the wretched huts before-mentioned, is extinct; and Claros, with Notium, has been long abandoned. The brook we crofled was the Halys. The vale on the north-fide of the promontory, which it divides, has perhaps encreafed toward the fea, and the old haven been filled up by foil wafhed from the mountains. When we had finifhed our furvey of Claros, we returned to fome huts, and pitching our tent, lay -furrounded with our baggage, men, and horfes. In the morning early we parTed by Zille, and over two ridges of Gallefus. We then entered on the plain of Ephefus, and travelled along the edge toward the more, until we came to the mouth of a lake, at which was a weir of reeds, and a bridge of three arches, but of one more than half was broken away. My companions, with our men, croffed below it by the fea, but feeing the water deep, I difmounted and walked over. The lake is long, and extended clofe by us on our left almoft to the river Cayfter, near which we turned up from the beach. We difcovered foon after a fifherman's hut between the lake and the river. We were ferried over the latter in a triangular float; and in three hours arrived at Ephefus. We pitched our tent among the ruins, which are at a diflance from Aiafaluck. We had been here before, and fhall now give an account of that journey. O 2 CHAP. io8 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. CHAP. XXXII. Dijhmce of Ephefus from Smyrna — To Sedicui — To the fources of a river To Toarbali Of the Turcomans Their booths. — To the Cayjier — Arrive at Aiafaluck — Relation of a journey in 1705. THE two cities Ephefus and Smyrna have been termed the eyes of Afia Minor. They were diftant from each other three hundred and twenty ftadia or forty miles in a ftrait line. On the road, one hundred and twenty from Ephefus, was a town called Metropolis. Aiafaluck is now reckoned fourteen hours from Smyrna. W e left the conful's houfe on Sunday the laft day of September, in the forenoon, and pafling the river Meles, rode with the caftle hill of Smyrna on our right hand to a gap in the wall of the pomosrium. We crofted the be \ of the torrent, and foon arrived at Sedicui, a fmall but pleafant village, about two hours diftant. We palled the night at a houfe, which Mr. Lee, who had accompanied us, rented of a Turk j the afylum, where afterwards we had refuge from the plague and Smyrna. W e were on horfeback again at five in the morning, before day-break, going fouthward. A firing of camels was in mo- tion at the fame time, the foremoft with a bell faftened about his neck and tinkling. The dawn foon after began to difclofe the blue tops of the mountains, and the fun rifing coloured the iky with a rich variety of tints. The air was foft and fragrant. We paffed by an ordinary bridge or two over water- courfes, then dryj and through a wet bottom and a heath covered with pines, wild thyme, and many large thickets of myrtle in flower. On the flopes of the mountains were feveral villages. TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 109 villages. We difmoimted about eight at a coffee-fhed ftanding by the fide of the road near a hut, called Olalanazzi. One of the rivers, which we croffed in travelling along the coaft, rifes there from four heads. The ftreams foon unite in a clear brook, and wind in the made over a clean gravelly bed, wirh gentle cafcades and a pleaiing murmur. In it were many fmall rimes a'nd tortoifes. Each fource is enveloped with buih.es of myrtle intermixed with plane-trees ; and the hut is between two, about fifty yards afunder. The agreeable frefhnefs and verdure produced by thefe lively currents afford a mofl grateful relief to the thirfty fun-burnt traveller. That the antient Ionians were not infenfible to the charms of the fpot may be inferred frOm the veftiges of building near it, and from the remnants of marble. After drinking coffee we went on, and entering a hollow way fhaded with pines, came in view of a ruined caravanfera or building for the reception of travellers, near an extenfive plain. Here a ftream defcends through a pleafant vale, in which are ,fome fcattered cottages, named Terrenda, with a mill, by which we dined on a green plat, when we returned. Among the low bufhes, on a gentle rifing clofe by, are fome marble fragments ; and, fearching about, we found by the road an infcription 1 , which has belonged to an antient fepulchre. It was well cut, on a fquare flone, and perhaps near the fire of the edifice. At ten we paffed by Hortena, a frraggling vil- lage. On the left hand is a fmall Turkifh burying-ground by a fountain, and veftiges of building. We arrived an hour after at Tourbali, where we dined by a well near the khan under a fpreading tree, and were much incommoded by dufl and wind. The roof of the liable was fupported by broken columns, and in the wall was a piece of doric frieze, with fome fragments removed, it is likely, from the ruins of Metropolis. We were told here, that the road farther on was b^fet with Turcomans ; a' people fuppofed to be defcended from the 1 Infcript. Ant. p. 11. Nomades, no TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. Nomades Scythas or Shepherd Scythians ; bufied, as of old, in breeding and nurturing cattle ; and leading, as then, an un- fettled life; not forming villages and towns with liable habita- tions, but flitting from place to place as the feafon and their convenience directs ; chuiing their ftations, and overfpreading without controul the vaft neglected paftures of this defert em- pire. Thefe wanderers were early a nuifance to the Greeks, and in a treaty with one of the Sultans, the emperor requires him to punifh as many of them as were his fubjects, and had trefpafTed on their territories i. They are there faid to live by theft and robbery, an article in which likewife the uniformity of character has been preferved. They vary in favagenefs and violence, as the refpedtive clans happen to be more or lefs humanized by focial intercourfe and attention to civil life. The Aga of Tourbaii and our Armenians, would have per- fuaded us to ftay until the next morning, but as it was not yet noon, we refolved to go on. The Aga then appointed a Turk to accompany us as a guide and fafe-guard, afTerting that he was refponfible to Elez-Oglu, if any ftranger fuffered on that road. We fet out, and had on our right Depecui, a village, in which we could difcern a large, fquare, ruinous edifice, with fpaces for windows. Soon after we came to a wild country covered with thickets, and with the black booths of the Turcomans, fpreading on every fide, innumerable, with flocks, and herds, and horfes, and poultry feeding round them. We croffed an extenfive level plain, overrun with bufhes, but miffed Metropolis, of which fome veftiges remain 2 ; our guide leading us to the Jeft of the direct road from Smyrna to Ephefus. About three o'clock we approached a valley, which divides two very lofty mountains. The extremity of Gallefus or the Alemariy which was on our right, is covered with trees, rifing beautifully in regular gradation up the Hope, The other, oppofite to it, is quite bare and naked. We now perceived four men riding briikly toward us, abreafl, well mounted and armed. Our Janizary and Armenians halted, as they paffed, iCinnannis, 1.4. p.^25, 2 Sec Wheler and Chifliwll. and TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. m and faced about until they were gone beyond our baggage. We came foon after to a fountain, and a coffee-hut, above which, on the mountain-fide, is Ofebanar, a Turkifh village. We then difcovered on our left a ruined bridge, and the river Cayfter, which met us again at four, the water ftill and apparently ftagnant, the banks fteep. A caftle, vifible afar off, ftands onthefummit of Gallefus. We turned weftward at the end of the opening between the mountains, and had on our left a valley, bounded by a moun- tain called antiently Padtyas. The road lay at the foot of Gal- lefus, beneath precipices of a ftupendous height, abrupt and inacceffible. In the rock are many holes inhabited by eagles ; of which feveral were foaring high in the air, with rooks and crows clamouring about them fo far above us, as hardly to be difcernible. By the way was a well and part of a marble far- cophagus or coffin, on which were carved heads and feftoons. The Cayfter, which had been concealed in the valley, now appeared again j and we had in view before us the round hill and {lately caftle of Aiafaluck, very feafonably for man and horfe, both jaded with heat and wanting reft. Mount Padtyas here retires with a circular fweep, while Gallefus preferves its direction to the fea, which is the weftern boundary of the plain. This has been computed five miles long. The Cayfter met us near the entrance on it ; and we pafied over an ordinary bridge, a little below which are pieces of veined marble, polifhed, the remnants of a ftrudture more worthy Ephefus. The ftream was fhallow, but formed a bafin crofied by a weir of reeds. We purchafed fome live mullet of the fifherman who was there. A narrow track winding through rubbifh and loofe ftones round the caftle-hill brought us in about half an hour more to Aiafaluck. . I shall infert here an account of a journey to Aiafaluck in 1705, from an imperfect diary', found among Chifhull's j In the pofleffion of John Loveday, Efq; of Caverfham nearReaJrng. The other gentlemen were the Rev. John Tifler, chaplain to the Englifh Fac- tory ; and Cutts Lockwood, and John Lethieullier, two capital merchants, of great fpirit and generofity. papers, ii2 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. papers, written in Latin by Dr. Antony Picenini, a Grifon, who happened to be then at Smyrna, joined in company with conful Sherard, and other gentlemen of the Engliih nation. They fet out on the thirteenth of Auguft, at four in the after- noon, and paffing through the plain of Bujaw, came about five to a little hill and a rivulet then dry j and after riding about three hours pitched their tents by a fmall village, called Sinofocheli. They fet out again the next morning before fix, through an uncultivated plain ; and after two hours croffed a narrow but deep ftream, which he calls Halefus ; going on in this plain, the road good, they obferved in lefs than two hours, Ibme veftiges of an aquaeduct reaching toward a village on their left ; where alfo were ruins on a hill. A wide paved way led through cultivated fields to the mountain-foot, toward the left, where they halted to reft about noon in a wood. They had feen fragments of columns and other remains of Metropolis. They proceeded at three, and foon had the Cayfter on their left, and the caftle on the precipice in view. This was then called Kezel-hiflar, The Caftle of the Goats, perhaps as fcarcely acceflible but to thofe animals. They turned, as we did, weftward ; and at fix arrived at Aiafaluck in thirteen hours from Smyrna. CHAP. XXXIII. Aiafaluck — The evening — Remains — The Caftle — The Mofque — The Aquadudl — An antient bridge. AIASALUCK is a fmall village, inhabited by a few Turkifh families, ftanding chiefly on the fouth fide of the caftle-hill, among thickets of tamarifk and ruins. It was dufk when we alighted, lamenting the filence and complete humilation, as we conceived, of Ephefus. The caravanfera, to which we had been directed, was exceedingly mean and wretched. A marble coffin, freed from the human duft, ferved as a water- trough to a well in the front. Some figures holding Roman enfigns have been carved on it ; and, as we learn from the in- TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. n 3 infcription 1 , it once contained the bodies of a captain of a trireme, named the Griffin, together with his wife. Clofe by, fome tall camels, juft arrived, flood penfive ; or, with their knees tied to prevent their rifing from the ground, mildly- waited the removal of their burthens. The caravanfera being full, we were diftreffed for a place to lodge in, but after fome time a Turk offered us a flied by his cottage, open to the fouth-eafl, the roof and fides black with fmoke. Some martens had made their nefts againft the rafters ; and we were told, their vilits were deemed to portend good, and that the Turks wifhcd them to frequent their apartments, leaving a paffage for their admiffion. Our horfes were dif- pofed among the walls and rubbifh, with their fiddles on ; and a mat was fpread for us on the ground. We fate here, in the air, while fupper was preparing ; when fuddenly, fires began to blaze up among the bufhes, and we faw the villagers collected about them in favage groups, or paffing to and fro with lighted brands for torches. The flames, with the ftars and a pale moon, afforded us a dim profpecl of ruin and defolation. A fhrill owl, named Cucuvaia from its note, with a night- hawk, flitted near us ; and a jackall cryed mournfully, as if forfaken by his companions, on the mountain. We retired early in the evening to our flied, not without fome fenfations of melancholy, which were renewed at the dawn of day. We had then a diftinct view of a folemn and moft forlorn fpot ; a neglected Caftle, a grand Mofque, and a broken Aquae- duct, with mean cottages, and ruinous buildings interfperfed among wild thickets, and fpreading to a coniiderable extent. Many of the fcattered ftrudtures are fquare, with domes, and have been baths. Some grave-ftones occurred, finely painted and gilded, and fairly emboffed, as the Turkifh manner is, with characters in relievo. But the Caftle, the Mofque, and the Aquseduct, are alone fufficient evidences, as well of the former greatnefs of the place, as of its importance. i See Heflelius, Append, ad Gudium, P The n 4 TRAVELS in ASIAMINOR. The Caftle is a large and barbarous edifice, the wall built with iquare towers. You afcend to it over heaps of ftones in- termixed with fcraps of marble. An out- work, which lecured the approach, confifted of two lateral walls from the body of the fortrefs, with a gate-way. This faces the fea, and is /im- ported on each fide by a huge and awkward buttrefs, con- ftructed chiefly with the feats of a Theatre or Stadium, many of them marked with Greek letters. Several fragments of infcriptions ' are inferted in it, or lie near. Over the arch are four pieces of antient fculpture. The two in the middle are in alto relievo, of moft exquifite workmanfhip, and evidently parts of the fame defign ; one, reprefenting, it feems, the death of Patroclus ; the other, plainly the bringing of his body to Achilles. The third exhibits a corpfe, it is likely that of Hector, with women lamenting ; is in bafib relievo, not fo wide, and, befides, differs fo much, that it can be confidered as connected with the former only in having a reference to the Iliad. Thefe were carefully drawn by Mr. Pars ; and two of them, the firft and laft, may be feen, engraved by Bartolozzi, in Mr. Wood's Effay on Homer. The fourth is carved with boys and vine-branches, is narrower, and much injured 2 . Within the caftle are a few huts, an old mofque, and a great deal of rubbifh. If you move a ftone here, it is a chance but you find a fcorpion under it. The grand Mofque is fituated beneath the cattle, weft ward. The fide next the foot of the hill is of ftone; the remainder, of veined marble polifhed. The two domes are covered with lead, and each is adorned with the Mahometan crefcent. In front is a court, in which was a large fountain to fupply the devout mufiulman with water, for the purifications required by his law. The broken columns are remains of a portico. The three entrances of the court, the door- ways of the mofque, and many of the window-cafes have mouldings in the Saracenic ftile, with fentences, as we fuppofed, from the Koran, in Arabic chajacters handfomely cut. The windows have wooden frames, and are latticed with wire. The infide is mean, except the kible or i See Hefielius. a See Tournefort. portion TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 115 portion toward Mecca, which is ornamented with carving, painting, and gilding. The minaret is fallen. We found a long Greek infcription » nearly effaced, in the wall of the fide next to Gallefus. The fabric was raifed with old materials. The large granate columns, which fultain the roof, and the marbles, are fpoils from antient Ephefus. The Aquaeduct, on the oppofite fide of the caftle-hill, reaches from the foot quite acrofs the plain, eaftward to mount PacTyas. The piers are fquare and tall, and many in number, with arches of brick. They are conftructed chiefly with infcribed pedeftals ; on one of which is the name of Atticus Herodes, whofe flattie it has fupported. We copied or collated feveral, but found none which have not been publifhed. The minute diligence of earlier collectors had been extended to the unimportant frag- ments, and even fingle words within reach, from the firft to the forty fifth pier 2. The marbles yet untouched would furnifh a copious and curious harveft, if acceffible. The downfall of fome may be expected continually, from the tottering condition of the fabric j and time and earthquakes will fupply the want of ladders, for which the traveller wifhes in vain at a place, where, if a tall man, he may almoft overlook the houfes. The water was conveyed in earthen pipes, and, it has been furmifed, was that of a famous fpring named Halitasa. It is now inter- cepted, no moifture trickling from the extremity of the duel: on the mountain. The ruin abounds in fnakes, We faw a very long one twitting between the ftones, which are not accurately joined ; and the peafants with us attacked and killed it. We likewife disturbed many chameleons and lizards, which were bafking in the fun. We were in danger near the village from large fierce dogs, which the boys encouraged to worry and to attack us. In the way from Aiaialiick to Guzel-hifTar or Magnefia by the Maunder, about four or five miles diftant, is a narrow woody valley with a ftream, over which is an antient bridge of three » See Pococke Infc. p. 19. n. 15. 2 See Heflelius. P 2 arches, n6 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. arches. Two long lines, one in Latin, the other in Greek, are infcribed on it, and inform us, it was dedicated to the Ephelian Diana, the emperor Casfar Auguftus, Tiberius Caefar his fon, and to the people of Ephefus : and alfo that Pollio, a Roman, erected it at his own expenfe '. This fabric has been deformed by a fubfequent addition ; the three arches now fuftaining fix, intended to convey a current of water acrofs the valley, probably to the aqueduct of Aiafaluck. CHAP. XXXIV. Aiafaluck not "Ephefus — Tamerlane at Aiafaluck — Hiflory of the two places confounded — Origin of Aiafaluck — Thunder <- form — A food. AIASALUCK has had an affinity with Ephefus fimilar to that of Sevri-hifTar with Teos. We found no Theatre, nor Stadium, nor Temple. The whole was patch-work, compofed of marbles and fragments removed from their original places, and put together without elegance or order. We were convinced that we had not arrived yet at Ephefus, before we difcovered the ruins of that city ; which are by the mountains, nearer the fea, vifible from the caftle-hill, and diflant above half a mile. A change in the names of places, with the new fettle- ments which had been eftabliihed under the Turks, renders it difficult to follow Tamerlane in his marches through Afia Mi- nor ; but from Guzel-hifTar or Magnefia by the Maeander he came to Aiazlik or Aiafaluck. There alfo he encamped after fubduing Smyrna in 1402. The events recorded of Ephefus pofterior to this date belong, it feems, to Aiafaluck and its citadel or caflle. ilnfcript. Ant. p. 11, Two TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. n 7 Two years after the invafion by Tamerlane, Cineis, it is related, took Ephefus from Amir, Sultan of Smyrna, who re- tired to Mantakhia his uncle, prince of Caria. Amir, return- ing with fix thoufand men, befieged and fet fire to the town. The father of Cineis, who commanded there with three thou- fand men, maintained the citadel while he had hopes of fuccour. Cineis again attacked Ephefus, and drove Amir in his turn into the citadel. Thefe chieftains were reconciled, and Cineis bj the death of Amir became a fovereign. Sultan Solyman advanced againft him with a large army from Prufa, by Smyrna, to Me- faulion ; where he intrenched. Cineis had prevailed on the princes of Cotyceium and Iconium to join him at Ephefus, and the two armies were only fix leagues afunder ; when appre- hending treachery in his allies, he gallopped to the citadel, ex- horted his brother not to give it up before the following day, and at night repaired to the camp of Solyman. The two princes retreated with their forces at fun-rife, fording the river on one fide ; while the Sultan croffed it over a bridge by mount Gal- lefus, and entered Ephefus. The Citadel is here difKnguifhed fo plainly, that a perfon who has feen the places will fcarcely hefitate to pronounce that the Ephefus of Cineis was the Aiafa- luck of Tamerlane. Aiasaluck has certainly nourifhed chiefly, if not folely, under the Mahometans. Its origin may with probability be re- ferred to the thirteenth century. It is related, that Mantakhia before mentioned fubdued Ephefus with Caria in 13 13. He perhaps fortified this rock for a ftrong hold, and the town grew under its protection. The Mofque and Aquaeduft as well as the Caflle, are great though inelegant ftruclures. They fuggeif the idea, that the place has been honoured with the refidence of princes, and it is likely, were erected under him and his nephew Amir. The marble materials of antient Ephefus, then in ruins, were amaffed for thefe buildings, which have contributed largely to the prefent nakednefs of its fite. O n the fecond evening of our flay at Aiafaluck heavy clouds began to arrive apace, with a foutherly wind, and to fettle upon the mountains round us ; when all became black and gloomy. At n8 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. At night frequent flafhes of pale lightening, each making a momentary day, gleamed into the plain ; while awful thunder, prolonged by repeated reverberations, moved folemnly along upon the fummits. The explofions were near, and loud, and dreadful, far beyond any I ever heard before. Well might the devout heathen, unskilled in natural caufes, afcribe to a prefent deity fo grand an operation ; and while the tremendous God drove, as he conceived, his terrible chariot through the darknefs, tremble at the immenfe. difplay of his power and be filled with appreheniion of his wrath. The rain, pouring down violently in large drops, foon made its way through our flender fhed, and fell plentifully on us and our bedding, tinged with foot and dirt. Our horfes were with- out fhelter, and our men in an inftant wet to the fkin It held up again about ten in the morning, and we croffed the plain to the ruins of Ephefus, but foon after the thunder and rain re-commenced, and forced us to return. In the afternoon the plain was deluged with water from the mountains, running down like a torrent, and rendering it in many places impaffable. The Aga of Aiafaluck being abfent, we viiited his deputy, our men carrying, as ufual, fome coffee and fmall loaves of fugar as a prefent. He received us very gracioufly, fitting crofs-legged on the roof of an old Bath, which was his habitation. CHAP. XXXV. Epbefus — The Stadium — -The Theatre — The Odeum, &c.—-The Gymnafium A Jireet Another A temple Square tower — Extent of the city — Avenues — Prion a mountain of marble — A place of burial— The quarries, &c. EPHESUS was fituated by the mountains, which are the fouthern boundary of the plain, and comprehended within its wall a portion of mount Prion and of Coriffus. Mount Prion is a circular TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 119 a circular hill refembling that of Aiafaluck, but much larger. CoriiTus is a fingle lofty ridge, extending northward from near mount Padtyas and approaching Prion, then making an elbow and running weflvwardly toward the fea. This city as well as Smyrna was built by Lyfimachus, who alfo enrolled its fenate, and provided for its civil government. We entered Ephefus from Aiafaluck with mount Prion and the exterior lateral wall of a Stadium, which fronted the fea, on our left hand. Going on and turning, we pafled that wing of the building, and the area opened to us. We meafured it with a tape, and found it fix hundred eighty feven feet long. The fide next the plain was raifed on vaults, and faced with the ftrong wall before mentioned. The oppofite fide, which' over- looks it, and the upper end, both refted on the flope of the hill. The feats, which ranged in numerous rows one above another, have all been removed ; and of the front only a few marbles remain, with an arch * which terminates the left wing and was one of the avenues provided for the fpeclators. Upon the key- ftone of the back front is a fmall mutilated figure. This part of the fabric was reftored or repaired when the city had declined in fplendor and was partly ruinous ; for it is compofed of marbles, which have belonged to other buildings. A bafs relief, rudely carved, is inferted in it; and feveral infcriptions, effaced, or too high up to be read ; befides fragments, fome with Roman letters. The preaching of St. Paul produced a tumult at Ephefus, the people rufhing into the Theatre, and fhouting " Great is " Diana." The veftiges of this firuclure, which was very capa- cious, are farther on in the fide of the fame mountain. The feats and the ruins of the front are removed. In both wings are feveral architectural fragments ; and, prying about the fide next to the Stadium, we difcovered an infcription * over an arch, once one of the avenues, and clofed up perhaps to firengthen the fabric. It bids the reader, if he approached not the feftive 1 See a view of this arch in Le Brun, p. 3r. 2 See Infcript. Ant. p. 11. fcene, 120 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. fcene, ftill be pleafed with the achievements of the architect who had faved the vaft circle of the theatre ; all-conquering time having yielded to the fuccour he had contrived. That it is of a low age, may be inferred from the form of the cha- racters, and from the ligatures, which render it difficult to be decyphered. The early advocates for chriftianity inveighed againft the fafhionable diverfions, but the public relifh for the ftage, for the athletic exercifes, races and fpectacles was inve- terate ; and the Theatre, the Stadium, and the like places of refort continued to be frequented long after them, even at Ephefus. Going on from the Theatre, which had a Stoa or portico annexed to it, as may be collected from the pedeftals and bafes of columns ranging along on this fide, and concealed partly in the ground, you come to a narrow valley, which divides mount Prion from Coriflus. Near the entrance, in a fmall water-courfe, was a marble with an infcription, which I copied '; and we could difcern a few letters on another flone overwhelmed with rub- bifh. Clofe by were ruins of a church, and a ftone carved with the Greek crofs. Within the valley, you find broken columns and pieces of marble, with veftiges of an Odeum or mufic- theatre in the flope of Prion. This, which was not a large ftruclure, is {tripped of the feats and naked. Near it are fome piers with fmall arches, each of a fingle ftone, almoft buried in foil. It is a precept of Vitruvius that the Odeum be on the left hand coming from the theatre. Beyond the Odeum the valley opens gradually into the plain of Aiafaluck. Keeping round by Prion, you meet with veftiges of buildings, and come to the remains of a large edifice refembling that with an arcade at Troas. The top of one of the niches is painted with waves and fifties, and among the frag- ments lying in the front are two trunks of ftatues, of great fize, without heads and almoft buried ; the drapery, which is in both the fame, remarkable. This huge building was the Gymnafium, which is mentioned as behind the city. We pitched our tent ilnfcript. Ant. p. ii. among TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 121 among its ruins, when we arrived from Claros, and were em- ployed on it three days in taking a plan and view. We had a letter of recommendation from a Turkifh officer at Smyrna to the Aga of Aiafaluck, but, not going thither, he fent to require of us bac-Jlnjh, and was eafily gratified. We then found the area of the Stadium green with corn, and the lite in general over-run with fennel in feed, the {talks ftrong and tall. Some traces, which, in the autumn before had been plain, were not dif- cernible. We return now to the entrance of the city from Aiafaluck. That;] (treet was nearly of the length of the Stadium, which ranged along one fide. The oppofite fide was compofed of edifices equally ample and noble. The way was between a double colonnade, as we conjectured from the many pedeftals and bafes of columns fcattered there. Thefe fabrics were all raifed high above the level of the plain, and have their vaulted fubftrucfions yet entire. This ftreet was crofled by one leading from the plain to- ward the valley before mentioned, which had on the left the front of the Stadium and the Theatre with the portico adjoin- ing. On the right are ample fubftruclions ; and, oppofite to the Stadium, lies a bafin of white marble ftreaked with red, about fifteen feet in diameter, once belonging to a fountain ; with fome fhafts of fmall pillars near it almoft buried in earth. The ruins on this fide are pieces of maffive wall, which have been incrufted, as appears from holes bored for affixing the marble ; and ordinary arches, of brick, among which are frag- ments of columns of red granate. Thefe remains reach as far as the portico, and have behind them a morafs, once the city-port. By the higheft of them is the entrance of a fouterrain, which extends underneath ; thefe buildings having been erected on a low and marfhy fpot. Oppofite to the portico is a vacant qua- drangular fpace with many bafes of columns and marble frag- ments fcattered along the edges. Here, it is probable, was the agora or market-place, which in maritime towns was generally near the port ; in inland, near the centre ; and commonly built with Golonnades. Theother remains are perhaps of the arfenal s Q. and 122 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. and of the public treafury, the prifon, and the like buildings ; which in the Greek cities were ufually by the market-placei. W e are now at the end of the Street, and near the entrance of the valley between Prion and CorifTus. Here turning toward tbe fea, you have the market-place on the right hand ; on the left, the doping fide of CorifTus, and prefently the proftrate heap of a temple, which fronted 22m earl of north. The length was about one hundred and thirty feet, the breadth eighty. The cell or nave was constructed with large coarle Stones. The por- tico was marble, of the Corinthian order. " The temple was in Antis or of the EuStyle fpecies, and had four columns between the ant a. We found their capitals, and alio one of a pilaSter. The diameter of the columns is four feet and about fix inches ; their length thirty nine feet two inches, but including the bafe and capital forty fix feet and more than (tven. inches. The fhafts were fluted, and though their dimenfions are fo great, each of one ftone. The moft entire of them is broken into two pieces, On the frieze was carved a bold foliage with boys. The orna- ments in general -are extremely rich, but much injured. This perhaps was the temple erected at Ephefus by permifiion of Au- gustus Casfar to the God Julius, or that dedicated to Claudius Csfar on his Apotheofis. About a mile farther on is a root of CorifTus running out toward the plain and ending in an abrupt precipice. Upon this is a fquare tower, one of many belonging to the city- wall, and Still Standing. We rode to it along the mountain-fide, but that way is Steep and Slippery. Near it are remnants of fome edifice. Among the buihes beneath we found a fquare altar of white marble, well preferved. On the top is an offering, like a pine apple ; perhaps intended to reprefent a fpecies of cake. On the face a ram's head is carved, and a couple of horns filled with fruit ; the ends twined together. The eminence commands a lovely profpedt of the river CaySter, which there erodes the plain from near Gallefus, with a fmall but full Stream, and with many luxuriant maeanders. .» Vitruvius 1. i. c. 7. The TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 123 The extent of the city toward the plain, on which fide it was wafhed by the Cayfter, cannot now be afcertained ; but the mountainous region has preferved its boundary, the wall erefted by Lyfimachus, which is of excellent mafonry. It may be traced from behind the Stadium over mount Prion, {landing often above twenty feet high. It croffed the valley in which is a thick piece, with the gap of a gate- way ; the ftones regularly placed, large, rough, and hard. From thence it afcended mount Coriffus, and is feen ranging along the lofty brow, almofl entire, except near the precipice, where it ceafes. On mount Prion, which I rambled quite over, are likewife remnants of an exterior wall. This, from its direction, feems to have defcended, and inclofed the Gymnafium, which was without the city ; forming a pomcerium by uniting with the wall on Coriflus, which be- gins from a precipice beyond the valley. The avenues of the antient cities were commonly befet with fepulchres. The vaults of thefe edi^.ces, {tripped of their mar- ble, occur near the entrance of Epheius from Aiafaluck, where was once a gate ; and again by the Gymnaiium, both on Prion and Coriffus ; on each fide of the approach to the gate in the valley : and alio about the abrupt precipice, without the city- wall. The vaults along the flope of Coriffus, in the way thither, fhew that the Ephefians buried likewife within the city. It is recorded that a Sophift, of Miletus was interred in the market-place, in the principal part of Ephefus, where he had lived. The gate next the fea, was that by the precipice, from which, going on at the bottom, you come to a gap in mount Coriffus, cui, it is likely, to open a commodious way to Nea- polis, now Scala Nova, and to the places on the coafr. The gate toward Smyrna was probably in the plain $ for the antient road was over Gallefus. Mount Pion or Prion is among the curiofities of Ionia enu- merated by Paufanias '. It has ferved as an inexhauftible ma- gazine of marble, and contributed largely to the magnificence of the city. Its bowels are excavated. The Ephefians, it is 1 P. 210. 0^2 related, 124 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. related, when they firff. refolved to provide an edifice worthy of their Diana, were met to agree on importing materials. The quarries then in ufe were remote, and the expenfe, it was fore- ieen, would be prodigious. At this time, a fhepherd happened to be feeding his flock on the mountain, and two rams fighting, one of them miffed his antagonift, and, finking the rock with his horn, broke off a cruft of very white marble. He ran into the city with this fpecimen, which was received with excefs of joy. He was highly honoured for his accidental difcovery, and finally canonized; the Ephefians changing his name from Pyxodorus to Evangelus, The good meffenger, and enjoining their chief magiftrate, under a penalty to vifit the fpot, and to facri- fice to him monthly, which cuftom continued in the age of Auguftus Ccefar '. The author above cited mentions Prion as a mountain of a remarkable nature. He meant perhaps fome property of pre- ferving or confuming the dead, of which it has been a principal repofitory. In the records of our religion it is ennobled as the burying-place of St Timothy, the companion of St Paul and the firfl bifhop of Ephefus, whofe body was afterwards tranflated to Conflantinople by the founder of that city or his fon Conftantius, and placed with St Luke and St Andrew in the church of the Apoftles. The ftory of St John the Evangelift. was de- formed in an early age with grofs fiction ; but he alfo was interred at Ephefus, and, as appears from one narration, in this mountain 2 . In the fide of Prion, not far fr©m the Gymnafium, are cavi- ties with mouths, like ovens, made to admit the bodies, which were thrufl in, head or feet foremoft. One has an infcription on the plane of the rock, beginning, as ufual, This is the monu- ment &c. The traces of numerous fepulchres may be likewife feen. Then follows, farther on, a wide aperture or two, which are avenues to the interior quarries, of a romantic appearance, with hanging precipices ; and in one is the ruin of a church, of i Vitruv. 1, x, c, 7. 2 See Caye. brick, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 125 brick, the roof arched, the cieling plarter or flucco painted in rtreaks correfponding with the mouldings. Many names of perfons and fentences are written on the wall in Greek and Ori- ental characters. This perhaps is the oratory or church of St John, which was rebuilt by the emperor Juftinian. It is (till frequented, and had a path leading to it through tall ftrong thirties. Near it are remnants of brick buildings, and of fe- pulchres, with niches cut, fome horizontally in the rock. Going on, you come to the entrance into Ephefus from Aiafa- luck. The quarries in the mountain have numberlefs mazes and vaft, awful, dripping caverns. In many parts are chippings of marble and marks of the tools. I found chippings alfo above by the mouths, which fupplied marble for the city-wall, and faw huge pieces lying among the bufhes at the bottom. The view down the fteep and folemn precipice was formidable. A flock of crows difturbed at my approach flew out with no fmall clamour. CHAP. XXXVI. Of old 'Ephefus — The city of the lonlans — An oracle— ~Of Andro~ clus — The city of Lyjimachus — The port — Modern bijlory of Ephejus — Its decline — The prefent Ephefans — /// deplorable condition. T O complete the local hiftory of Ephefus, we mufl deduce if from a period of remote antiquity. Prion had in former times been called Lepre Acte j and a part behind Prion was rtill called the back of Lepre, when Strabo wrote. Smyrna, a portion of the firft Ephefus, was near the Gymnafium, behind the city of Lyfimachus, and between Lepre or Prion and a fpot called Tracheia beyond Coriflus. When the Ionians arrived, Androclus, their leader, protected the natives, who had iz6 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR had fettled from devotion by the temple of Diana, and incorpo- rated fome of them with his followers ; but expelled thofe, who inhabited the town above '. The city of Androclus was by the Atheneum or temple of Minerva, which was without the city of Lyfimachus, and by the fountain called Hypelsus, or that under the olive tree ; taking in part of the mountainous region by CoriiTus or of Tracheia. This was the city which Croefus beiieged, and the Ephefians prefented for an offering to their goddels, annexing it by a rope to her temple, which was diflant feven ftadia or a mile, wanting half a quarter. It is related, that Androclus with the Ephefians invaded and got poflemon of the ifland of Saraos. It was then debated, where to fix their abode. An oracle was confulted, and gave for anfwer, " A fifh mould mow them, and a wild hog conduct them." Some fifliermen breakfafting on the fpot, where afterwards was the fountain called Hypelasus, near 'The facred port, one of the fifh leaping from the fire with a coal fell on fome chaff, which lighting communicated with a thicket, and the flames difburbed a wild hog lying in it. This animal ran over great part of the Tracheia, and was killed with a javelin, where afterwards was the Atheneum or temple of Minerva 2 . The reverfe of a Me- daglion of the Emperor Macrinus, ftruck by the Ephefians, which has been otherwife interpreted, plainly refers to this ftory3. The Ionians removed to the continent, and founded their city, with a temple of Diana by the market-place, and of Apollo Pythius by the port ; the oracle having been obtained and fulfilled by the favour of thefe Deities. Androclus, drifting the people of Priene againfr. the Ca= rians, fell in battle. His body was carried away and buried by the Ephefians. Paufanias relates, that his monument, on which i Strabo, p. 633, p. 640. Paufanias, p. 207. 2 Athenseus '. d. p. 361. . 3 See Mufeum Florentinum v. 4. pi. lxi. and v. 6, p. 85. was TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 127 was placed a man armed, continued to be mown in his time, near the road going from the temple of Diana by the Olympium toward the Magnefian gate 1 . His pofterity had polfeffed here- ditary honours under Tiberius Caefar. They were titular kings, wore purple, and carried in their hands a wand or iceptre. They had, moreover, precedence at the games, and a right of admiiuon to the Eleuiinian myfleries. The temple of Diana, which rofe on the contributions of all Alia, produced a defertion of the city of Androclus. The Ephefians came down from the mountainous region or Tracheia, and fettled in the plain by it, where they continued to the time of Alexander. They were then unwilling to remove into the prefer) t city, but a heavy rain falling and Lyfimachus flopping the drains, and flooding their houfes, they were glad to exchange. The port had orignally a wide mouth, but foul with mud, lodged in it from the Cayfter. Attalus Philadelphus and his architects were of opinion, that, if the entrance were con- tracted, it would become deeper, and in time be capable of receiving mips of burthen. But theflime, which ha,d before been moved by the flux and reflux of the lea, and carried off, being flopped, the whole bafin quite to the mouth was rendered mallow. The morafs, of which i had a perfect view from the top of Prion, was this port. It communicates with the Cayfter, as might be expected, by a narrow mouth j and at the water- edge by the ferry, as well as in other places, may be feen the wall intended to embank the flream, and give it force by con- finement. The mafonry is of the kind termed Incertum, in which the flones are of various fhapes, but nicely joined. The fituation was fo advantageous as to overbalance the incon- veniencies attending the port. The town increafed daily, and under the Romans was accounted the mofl confiderabie em- porium of Afia within Mount Taurus 2. 1 P. 207. Hs wrote about the year of the Chriftian jera one hundred and feventy five. 2Strabo, p. 641, • Toward 128 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. Toward the end of the eleventh century, Ephefus experi- enced the fame fortune as Smyrna. A Turkifh pirate, named Tangripermes, fettled there. But the Greek admiral, John Ducas, defeated him in a bloody battle, and purfued the flying Turks up the Maeander. In 1 306, it was among the places which furfered from the exa&ions of the grand-duke Roger; and two years after, it furrendered to Sultan Sayfan, who, to prevent future infurrections, removed moft of the in- habitants to Tyriaeum, where they were maifac red. The tranf- adtions in which mention is made of Ephefus after this period, belong, as has been already obferved, to its neighbour and fuc- ceflbr Aiafaluck. Ephesus appears to have fubfifted as an inconfiderahle place for fome time. The inhabitants being few, and the wall of Lyfimachus too^xtenfive to be defended, or too ruinous to be repaired, it was found expedient or neceflary to contract their boundary by erecting an ordinary wall, which defcends from near the Stadium on one hand, and on the other from the wall on mount Prion, toward the morafs or port, not including the market-place. The difficulty of rendering even this fmall portion tenable, feems to have produced the removal to Aiafa- luck, as a fituation more fafe and commodious. A farther motive may be added, that the port through time and neglect was changed, and become a nuifance rather than of public utility. The Ephefians are now a few Greek peafants, living in ex- treme wretchednefs, dependance, and infenfibility ; the repre- fentatives of an illuftrious people, and inhabiting the wreck of their greatnefs ; fome, the fubftructions of the glorious edifices which they raifed; fome, beneath the vaults of the Stadium, once the crouded fcene of their diverfions ; and fome, by the abrupt precipice, in the fepulchres which received their afhes. We employed a couple of them to pile (tones, to ferve inflead of a ladder, at the arch of the Stadium, arid to clear a pedeflal of the portico by the Theatre from rubbiih. We had occa- fion for another to dig at the Corinthian temple ; and fending to TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 129 to the Stadium, the whole tribe, ten or twelve, followed ; one playing all the way before them on a rude lyre, and at times finking the founding board with the fingers of his left hand in concert with the firings. One of them had on a pair of fandals of goat-fkin, laced with thongs, and not uncommon. After gratifying their curiofity, they returned back as they came, with their mufician in front. Such are the prefent citizens of Ephefus, and fuch is the condition to which that renowned city has been gradually reduced. It was a ruinous place, when the emperor Juftinian filled Conflantinople with its flatues, and raifed his church of St. Sophia on its columns. Since then it has been almofl quite exhaufted. Its ftreets are obfcured, and overgrown. A herd of goats was driven to it for fhelter from the fun at noon ; and a noify flight of crows from the quarries feemed to infult its filence. We heard the partridge call in the area of the Theatre and of the Stadium. The glorious pomp of its heathen worfhip is no longer remembered ; and chriftianity, which was there nurfed by apoftles, and foftered by general councils, un- til it increafed to fullncfs of flature, barely lingers on in an cxiitence hardly vifible. CHAP. XXXVII, The Selemifian lakes — A Jijhery—The Cayjier — Road on Gallefus ^--New land — Port Panormus — The ifland Syrie. I N the plain of Ephefus were antiently two lakes 1 , formed partly by ftagnant water from the river Selinus, which ran near the Artemifium or temple of Diana, probably from mount Gallefus. The kings had taken from the goddefs the 1 Templum Diana; complexi e diverfis regionibus duo Selinuntes. Pliny. R revenue i 3 o TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. revenue arifing from them, which was great; but it was reftored by the Romans. The publicans then forced her to pay taxes. Artcmidorus was fent ambafTador to Rome, and pleaded fuccefs- fully her privilege of exemption, for which and his other fervices the city erected a ftatue of him in gold. A temple in a bottom by one of the lakes was faid to have been founded by Agamemnon'. The reader may recoiled:, that, coming from Claros, we crofled the mouth of a lake, and afterwards rode along by its fide. This was the lower Selenufia. Near the ferry we difco- vered the other, a long lake, parallel with the firft, and extend- ing acrofs the plain. The weir, which we faw, will inform us what were the riches of thefe waters. Ephefus was greatly frequented, and the receptacle of all who journeyed into the Eaft, from Italy and Greece. A fifhery, fo near to fo populous a mart, muft have been an article equally convenient to the city and profitable to the proprietor. Some pieces of building, with cement, remain by the river fide above the ferry. The river Cayfier, after entering the plain, runs by Galle- fus, and crofles above the lakes, oppofite the fquare tower. Lower down it leaves but a narrow pafs, obftrucled with thickets, at the foot of the mountain. It then becomes wider and deeper; and mingles, the ftream ftill and fmooth, with the fea. On the banks, and in the morafs or port, and in the lake near the ferry, we faw thick groves of tall reeds, fome growing above twenty feet high ; and it is obfervable, that the River- god is represented on the Ephefian medals with this aquatic as one of his attributes. An ordinary bridge of three arches is built over the river, at the foot of Gallefus. The road on that mountain has been hewn in the rock. Our Armenians told us the work was done by St. Paul, with a fingle ftrokeof a fcymitar. Some Caravans i Strabo, p. 387. p. 642. ftill TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 131 flill ufe it ; crofling the plain and the mouth of the morafs or port to the gap below the fquare tower, or ferrying over the Cayfler lower down in a boat with a rope, and proceeding to Scala Nova without touching at Aiafahick. The Cayfler has its rife up in the country among the hills formerly called Cilbianian, It brings down many rivers, with a lake once named the Pegafean ; which was driven into it by the Pyrrhites 1 , a furious flream, as may be inferred from the name. The flime, which is collecled in its courfe, pro- pagates new land. The fea once adted by its flux and reflux on the port of Ephefus, which has been diminifhed in proportion, as the foil has increafed and become firm ground. The river alfo has perhaps gradually changed its own bed, while it has augmented the plain. The arrangement of this portion of the coaft, given by Strabo, is as follows. After Neapolis, now Scala Nova, and Phygela, going northward, was port Panormus, which boafted the temple of the Ephefian Diana ; then the city, which had arfenals and a port; beyond the mouth of the Cayfler was a lake, called Selenufia, made by water which the fea repelled ; and in the fame .direction, another, communicating with it - f then, mount Gallefus. Panormus, it is likely, was the general name of the whole haven, and comprized both the Sacred Port or that by which the temple flood, and the City Port now the morals. The former is perhaps miite filled up, Pliny mentions, that, in qonfequence of the encroachments of the river on the fea, the ifland Syrie was then feen in the middle of a plain. That ifland was, I fufpect, the rock of jViafaluck. Pliny. R s CHAP. i 3 a TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. C HAP. XXXVIII. Of the temple of Diana— The idol— Account of it — The priejls, &c.—Self-manifeJlations of the goddefs — An Ephefian decree — Remarks. W E would clofe our account of Ephcfus with the preceding chapter, but the curious reader will afk, what is become of the renowned temple of Diana? can a wonder of the world be vanifhed, like a phantom, without leaving a trace behind ? We would gladly give a fatisfactory anfwer to fuch queries ; but to our great regret, we fearched for the fite of this fabric to as little purpofe as the travellers, who have preceded us. The worfhip of the great goddefs Diana had been eftablimed at Ephefus in a remote age. The Amazons, it is related, facri- ficed to her there, on their way to Attica in the time of The- feus ; and fome writers affirmed, the image was ftrft fet up by them under a tree. The vulgar afterwards believed it fell down from Jupiter. It was never changed though the temple had been reftored feven times. This idol, than which none has been ever more fplendidly enlhrined, was of a middling fize, and of very great an- tiquity, as was evident from the fafhion ; it having rhe feet clofed. It was of wood, which fome had pronounced cedar, and others ebony. Mutianus, a noble Roman, who was the third time conful in the year of our Lord feventy five, affirmed from his own obfervation, that it was vine, and had many holes filled with nard to nourilb and moiften it, and to preferve the cement 1 . It was gorgeoufly apparelled ; the veil: embroidered with emblems and fymbolical devices : and to prevent its tot- i Pliny. tering TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. J 33 tering, a bar of metal, it is likely, of gold, was placed under each hand. A veil or curtain, which was drawn up from the floor to the ceiling, hid it from view, except while fervice was performing in the temple. The priefts of the goddefs were Eunuchs, and exceedingly refpe. Before us was a fmall inlet or gulf on the north-fide of the promontory Pofidium, on which the temple is fituated. We came to the head of it, and turning up in a valley, arrived about twelve at Ura, where are a few ftraggling huts. A peafant of Ura undertook to conduct us to the ruins, which are half an hour diftant. We proceeded without difmounting, and on a fudden a wild bull, roaring, ruihed out of a thicket, clofe by the road, and made furioufly at our guide. The man, who was before us on foot, turning nimbly round fome bulhes, eluded the attack, This terrible animal had for fome time infelled that diflricl. In defcending from the mountain toward the gulf, I had re- marked in the fea fornething white on the farther fide ; and going afterwards to examine it, found the remain of a circular pier belonging to the port, which was called Panormus. The ftones, which are marble and about fix feet in diameter, 1 Pliny calls it " pomum inhonorum." Nat. Hift. xv. 24. extend 150 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. extend from near the fhore; where are traces of buildings, pro- bably houfes, over-run with thickets of myrtle, maflic, and ever-greens. Some water occurring fifteen minutes from Ura, and pre- fently becoming more confiderable, I traced it to the gulf, which it enters at the head, after a very fhort courfe, full and flow. This was antiently fuppofed to have its fource on mount Mycale, and to pais the fea in its way to Port Panormus, by which it emerged opofite to Branchids. The temple of Apollo was eighteen or twenty ftadia, or about two miles and a half from the fhore ; and one hundred and eighty ftadia or twenty two miles and a hahf from Miletus. It is approached by a gentle afcent, and feen afar off; the land toward the fea lying flat and level. The memory of the pleafure, which this fpot afforded me, will not be foon or ealily erafed. The columns yet entire are fo exquifltely fine, the marble mafs fo vaft and noble, that it is impofiible perhaps to conceive greater beauty and majefty of ruin. At evening a large flock of goats, returning to the fold, their bells tinkling, fpread over the heap, climbing to browfe on the fhrubs and trees growing between the huge ftones. The whole mafs was illuminated by 'the de- clining fun with a variety of rich tints, and caff, a very ftrong fhade. The fea, at a diftance, was fmooth and fhining, bor- dered by a mountainous coaft, with rocky illands. The picture was as delicious as ft riking. A view of part of the heap, with plates of the architecture of this glorious edifice, has been en- graved and published, with its hiftory, at the expenfe of the fociety of Dilettanti. We found among the ruins, which are extenfive, a plain ftone ciftern, covered, except an end, with foil ; many marble coffins, unopened, or with the lids broken ; and one, in which was a thigh-bone ; all funk deep in earth : with five ftatues, near each other, in a row, almoft buried. In the ftubble of fome Turkey wheat were a number of bee-hives, each a long hollow trunk of wood headed like a barrel, piled in a heap. An Armenian, TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 151 Armenian, who was with me, on our putting up a hare, to my furprize flunk away. This animal, as I was afterwards informed, is held in abomination by that people, and the feeing it ac- counted an ill omen. CHAP. XLIV. At the temple AtJJra Ignorance of the Turks — Their huts — We continue cur journey — The confines of Ionia with Caria. THE temple of Apollo Didymeus feeming likely to detain us fome time, we regretted the entire folitude of the fpot, which obliged us to fix our quarters at Ura. Our Armenian cook, who tarried there with our baggage, fent us provifions ready dreffed, and we dined under a fhady tree by the ruins. Our horfes were tied and feeding by us. Our camel-leader teftified his benevolence and regard, by frequent tenders of his fhort pipe, and of coffee, which he made unceafingly, fitting crofs-legged by a fmall fire. The crows fettled in large companies round about, and the partridge called in the ftubble. A T our return in the evening to Ura, we found two fires, with our kettles boiling, in the open air, amid the huts and thickets. A mat was fpread for us on the ground by one of them. The Turks of Ura, about fourteen in number, fome with long beards, fitting crofs-legjjed, helped to complete the grotefque circle. We were lighted by the moon, then full, and fhining in a blue cloudlefs fky. The Turks fmoked, talked, and drank coffee with great gravity, compofure, and deliberation. One entertained us with playing on the Turkifh guittar, and with uncouth finging. The thin-voiced women, curious to fee us, glided as ghofls acrofs the glades, in white, with their faces muffled. The affemblage I and the fcene was uncommonly wild, and as folemn as favage. The. JS 2 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. The attention and knowlege of our guefts was wholly con- fined to agriculture, their flocks and herds. They called the ruin of the temple an old caftle, and we inferred from their an- lwers to our enquiries about it, that the magnificence of the building had never excited in them one reflection, or indeed at- tracted their obfervation, even for a moment. Our difcourfe, which was carried on by interpreters not very expert in the Italian language, foon became languid and tirefome ; and the fatigues of the day contributed to render repofe and lilence defirable. W e retired, after fupper, to one of the huts, which was near the fire, and, like the reft, reiembled a foldier's tent; be- ing made with poles inclining, as the two fides of a triangle, and thatched with ftraw. It was barely a covering for three perfons lying on the ground. The furniture was a jar of falted olives, at the farther end. Our men flept round the fire, and watched fome hours for an opportunity to fhoot the bull, which twice came near the huts, allured by the cattle. He then changed his haunt, removing to a thicket at a diftance, where we fre- quently faw him, or heard him roar. The weather as yet was . clear and pleafi.nt, and the fun powerful. We drooped with heat at noon, but at night experienced cold, and in the morn- ing our thatch was dripping with wet. The diforders, which began to prevail among us, required a fpeedy exchange of the thickets for fome lodging lefs damp and chilly. We renewed our journey, after two entire days, with fatisfaction ; leaving the temple at eleven, on a Friday, and travelling nearly fouth-eaftward over low ftony land covered with tufts or bufhes. Before us was the mountain antiently called Grius, a high craggy range, parallel to mount Latmus ; then ftretching from the Mileiian territory eaftward through Caria as far as Euromus, which was on the fea-coaft and once a place of fome confequence. W e came in two hours and a half to a deep bay, formerly called Sinus Bqfilicus on the fouth fide of Pofidium. The road for TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 153 for twenty minutes was on the beach. We tarried under a a tree near a fmall peninfula, on which was a hut or two, while our Turks performed the devotions cuftomary on their fabbath. We then entered between the mountains, the boundary now, as we were told, of the Jurifdiclion of Elez-Oglu, and antiently of Ionia. We now return to Scala Nova or Neapolis. CHAP. XLV. Of the lonians Their general ajjembly Panionium Story of the city He lice. O N the arrival of the Ionian adventurers from the European continent, the people which before poffeffed the country re- tired or were expelled. The Carians had fettled about Miletus, Mycale, and Ephefus; and the Leleges on the fide toward Phocea. Their fepulchres and caftles, with veftiges of their towns, remained for many ages, and fome are perhaps even now extant. The Ionian cities on the continent were, as has been men- tioned, ten in number, not reckoning Smyrna. Thefe, with Chios and Samos, gloried in their name, and to preferve the memory of their common origin, to promote amity and con- cord, and to facilitate their union for mutual defence, when occalion fhould require, inftituted a general afTembly, in which their deputies or reprefentatives had power to propofe and enacl: decrees, to debate and to determine on the interefts of the community. The place, where this famous council, called the Panionian, met, was on the coaft named Trogilia, three ftadia or a quarter of a mile and a half, from the more. It was a portion of U mount i 5 4 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. mount Mycale named Panionium, fronting the north, in the territory of Priene, feledted by the Ionic body, and confecrated to Neptune HeHconius. The cities jointly facrificed to that deity at the feafon of the congrefs. The ceremony is repre- fented on the reverfe of a medaglion of the Emperor Gallus., ftruck by the Colophonians. The thirteen deputies are there feen, each with his right hand uplifted or in the act of fup- plication, ftanding round an altar, with fire and a bull before the image and temple 1 . If the victim lowed while dragging to the altar, it was deemed a good omen. The Prieneans were defcended from the Ionians of Helice in Achaia, and introduced the worfhip of this God. They had petitioned their mother-city to tranfmit to them an image of him, and a plan of his temple, intending to erect one on the fame model, but were refuied. They then ohtained from the Achaean community a decree in their favour ; and, Helice not complying with it, Neptune, it is related, grew angry, and in the following winter, that city was fwallowed up by an inunda- tion of the fea and an earthquake. This event happened in the night, two years before the battle of Leuctra. The Achxans then delivered to the Ionians the plan they had requeued. A young man was appointed by the Prieneans to prelide at the rites as Sacrificing king during the feftival. G H A P. XLVI. We fit out from Scala Nova — Separate a?id lofe our way — Benighted on mount Mycale — Goat-herds — To Changlee — To Panionium — To Kelibefi. I N going from Scala Nova toward Miletus, as related in a preceding chapter, we had in view on the right hand the coaft called Trogilia, and the promontory. We then pafled Priene, iSee Mufeum C. Albani, v. z. pi. 80. and p. 42. The Deity is there fuppofed to be Apollo Clarius, that TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 155 that journey having for its principal object the temple of Apollo Didymeus. On our fecond arrival at Scala Nova from Ephefus, we refolved to proceed to Priene by Changlee, or, as was fup- pofed, Panionium. That village is diftant about three hours from Scala Nova. We flopped at the khan, while our men purchafed provifions ; and fet forward at four in the after- noon with a guide from the town, who put is into the road, which we have mentioned as leading toward the fea, and then returned - We paffed, after defcending to the water-fide, along the edge of the bay, and near a ruined caftle on a hill in the plain. Our Janizary was mounted on a free horfe, and we, to keep pace with him, feparated from our fervants, who followed with our baggage behind. It was dufk, and Changlee lying up from the fea, efcaped our obfervation. We expected to arrive' there every minute, and rode on, until we came to the foot of mount Mycale, and the beach was at an end. There, unfortunately, we difcovered a track with a gate before it, and went on, not doubting but the village was near. Steep fucceeded fteep ; the way flippery, uneven, often winding about vaft chafms, or clofe by the brink of tremendous precipices, with the fea rolling beneath. We were benighted, and perplexed, the track not being dif- tinguifhable, though the moon began to fhine. We difmounted to lead our horfes, when the Janizary, who was a fat bulky man, and diftreffed by the bufhes, which entangled in his long gar- ments, bemoaned his fituation in broken Italian with the mofl plaintive accents. We ftill perfevered, fuffering now from thirfl even more than from fatigue, and at length heard the found of water in a nook below us, when the moments feemed hours as we defcended to it. After this refrefhment we pufhed on as well as we could, expecting to meet foon with fome houfe or village, and commiferating our men and horfes embroiled, as we con- ceived, with our baggage on the mountain behind us. U 2 About 156 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. About two in the morning our whole attention was fixed by the barking of dogs, which, as we advanced, became exceed- ingly furious. Deceived by the light of the moon, we now fan- cied we could fee a village, and were much mortified to find only a ftation of poor goat-herds, without even a fhed, and no- thing for our horfes to eat. They were lying, wrapped in their thick capots or loofe coats, by fome glimmering embers among the buihes in a dale, under a fpreading tree by the fold. They received us hofpitably, heaping on frefh fewel, and producing Caimac or four curds, and coarfe bread, which they toafled for us on the coals. We made a fcanty meal fitting on the ground, lighted by the fire and by the moon ; after which, fleep fud- denly overpowered me. On waking I found my two compa- nions by my fide, fharing in the comfortable cover of the Ja- nizary's cloke, which he had carefully fp read over us. I was now much ftruck with the wild appearance of the fpot. The tree was hung with ruflic utenfils -, the fhe-goats in a pen, fneezed, and bleated, and milled to and fro ; the fhrubs, by which our horfes ftood, were leaflefs, and the earth bare ; a black caldron with milk was fimmering over the fire ; and a figure more than gaunt or favage, clofe by us, was flruggling on the ground with a kid, whole ears he had flit and was endeavouring to cauterize with a piece of red hot iron. We had now the mortification to hear, that our labour was fruitlefs, and that we muft return the way we came, both we and our horfes failing. We left the goat-herds, and found the track, which we had pafTed in the dark, full of danger even by day. We confumed near four hours on the mountain in going back. Defcending from it to the beach we efpied one of our Ar- menians, who was feeking us with a guide. They conducted us to Giaur-Changlee, a fmall Greek village near a fhallow ftream. By the way was a mean church, with a ruined infcription in the portico. We were welcomed by our men, who were waiting in great perplexity and anxiety at the houfe of the papas or prielt. They had been out the whole night in queft of us, difcharging their guns and piflols, hoping the report would reach us, but in vain. . We relied at Changlee the remainder of the day. The TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 157 The next morning, April the ninth, it rained, but about ten we mounted, and leaving the bay on our left hand, proceeded with a guide toward Mycale. We foon came to Turkiih Chan- glee, which is feated higher up by a ftream, then rapid and tur- bid. I faw by the mofque an infcription, which I wifhed to copy, but was accidentally the laft of our caravan j and after our late adventure was cautious of feparating from the reft. There, it is likely, was the fite of Panionium, and of the temple of Neptune. The river was named the Gsfus or Germs, and entered the lea on the coaft called Trogilia. Two days before, the ftream was inconfiderable, the mouth not wide, and crofted by a bar of fand. The facred region Panionia ending, as we fuppofed, a broken pavement carried us over fome roots of Mycale to a pleafant valley, in which a water-courfe commences. Several copious rills defcended from the fides of the mountain, on which was an over-fliot mill or two. The torrent farther on had torn down the banks, which were fteep, with corn Handing thick on the very brink. At a fountain by the way is an antient coffin with an infcription in Greek. I could read only a couple of the lines. About two we came in fight of Suki, and went on, without flopping, to Giaur-Kelibefh, where we arrived, April the ninth, at five in the evening. CHAP. XLVII. At Kelibejh — Zi?tgari or Gypfies — Women lamenting — Eajier — A phcenome?ion — Remark. GIAUR-KELIBESH is a fmall village, inhabited, as the name imports, by Chriftians or Greeks. It is fituated on the eaft-fide of mount Mycale, the houfes rifing on a Hope, and enjoying a fine view over the plain. The church is mean and was encompafled with graves. It appeared as a place re- cently i 5 8 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. cently fettled. We were here not far from the ruins of Priene, on which we employed fome days, returning before funfet to Kelibefb... During our flay at the village, fome of the vagrant people, called Atzincari or Zingari, the Gypfies of the Eaft, came thi- ther with a couple of large apes, which, their matters finging to them, performed a great variety of feats with extraordinary alertnefs, and a dexterity not to be imagined, fuch as raifed highly our opinion of the docility and capacity of that fagacious animal. One evening, coming from the ruins, we found an old woman fitting by the church on the grave of her daughter, who had been buried about two years. She wore a black veil, and pulling the ends alternately bowed her head down to her bofom ; and at the fame time lamented aloud, finging in an uniform difmal cadence, with very few paufes. She continued thus above an horn-, when it grew dark ; fulfilling a meafure of tributary forrow, which the Greeks fuperfKtioufly believe to be acceptable and beneficial to the fouls of the deceafed. The next morning a man was interred, the wife following the body; tearing her long difhevelled treffes in agony; calling him her life, her love; demanding the reafon of his leaving her; and expofhilating with him on his dying, in terms the moft ex- preffive of conjugal endearments and affection. The Greeks now celebrated Eafter. A fmall bier, prettily decked with orange and citron buds, jafmine, flowers, and boughs, was placed in the church, with a Chrift crucified rudely painted on board, for the body. We faw it in the evening ; and before day-break were fuddenly awakened by the blaze and crackling of a large bonfire, with finging and fhouting in honour of the Refurredrion. They made us prefents of coloured eggs, and cakes of Eafter- bread. The weather had been unfettled. The fky was blue, and the fun fhone, but a wet, wintry north-wind fwept the clouds along TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. i 59 along the top of the range of Mycale. We were fitting on the floor early one morning at breakfaft, with the door, which was toward the mountain, open; when we difcovered a fmall rainbow juft above the brow. The fun was then peeping only over the oppofite mountain, and, as it got higher, the arc widened and defcended toward us ; the cattle, feeding on the flope, being feen through it, tinged with its various colours as it paffed down, and feeming in the bow. This phasnomenon is probably not uncommon in the mountainous regions of Ionia and Greece. Let us fuppofe a devout heathen one of our company, when this happened. On perceiving the bow defcend, he would have fancied Iris was coming with a meflage to the Earth from Jupiter Pluvius ; and, if he had beheld the bow afcend in like manner, which at fome feafons and in certain fituations he might do, he would have confidently pronounced, that the goddefs had performed her errand, and was going back to heaven. CHAP. XLVIIL The citadel of Priene — Def cent from it — "Remains of the city'*-" The wall and gate-ways — Taken by Bajazet* THE morning after we arrived at Kelibefh, we fet out to furvey the ruins of Priene, with the Greek, at whofe houfe we lodged, for our guide. He led us firfr. through the village up to the acropolis or citadel ; the afcent lafting an hour, the track bad, by breaks in the mountain and fmall cafcades. We then arrived on a fummit of Mycale, large, diflindt, and rough, with Aunted trees and deferted cottages, encircled, except to- ward the plain, by an antient wall of the mafonry called Pfeu- difodomum. This has been repaired, and made tenable in a later age by additional out-works. A fleep, high, naked rock rifes behind; 160 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. behind ; and the area terminates before in a mod abrupt and formidable precipice, from which we looked down with won- der on the diminutive objedls beneath us. The maffive heap of a temple below appeared to the naked eye, but as chippings of marble ' . A winding track leads down the precipice to the city. The way was familiar to our guide and a lad, his fon, who was with us. We liftened to their aifurances, and enticed by a fair fetting- out, followed them ; but it foon became difficult and dan- gerous. The fteps cut in the rock were narrow, the path fre- quently not wider than the body, and fo fteep as fcarcely to al- low footing. The fun fhone full upon us, and was reverberated by the rugged fide of the mountain, to which we leaned, avoid- ing as much as poffible the frightful view of the abyfs beneath us, and fhrinking from the brink. The long continued defcent made the whole frame quiver ; and looking up from the bottom, we were aftonifhed at what we had done. We could difcern no track, but the rock appeared quite perpendicular j and a foar- ing eagle was below the top of the precipice. At the temple we were joined by our fervants, who led our horfes down on the fide oppofite to that which we afcended ; and with them came the fat Janizary, who had very wifely fneaked off on per- ceiving our intention. The temple of Minerva Polias, though proftrate, was a re- main of Ionian elegance and grandeur too curious to be haftily or flightly examined. An account of it, with a view and plates of the architecture, has been published at the expenfe of the Society of Dilettanti. Several infcribed marbles re- main in the heap 2 . When entire, it overlooked the city, which was feated on the fide of the mountain, flat beneath flat, in gradation, to the edge of the plain. The areas are levelled, and the communication is preferved by fteps cut in the flopes. Below the temple are broken columns, and pieces of marble, the remnants of edifices of the Ionic and Doric orders. Farther down is the ground plat of the Stadium, by the city- i See a View in the Ionian Antiquities. slnfcript. Ant. p. 14. p. 15. p, 16. wall TRAVELS in A.SIA MINOR. 161 wall. The area was narrow, and the feats ranged only on the fide facing the plain. In the mountain, on the left hand, going from the temple, is the recefs, with fome veftiges, of the Theatre. Among the rubbifh and fcattered marbles is an infcriptiom, with a fragment or two, and ruins of churches, but no wells or mofques as at Miletus. The whole circuit of the wall of the city is ftanding, belides feveral portions within it worthy of admiration for their folidity and beauty. It de- fcends on each fide of the precipice, and is the boundary next the plain. Priene, not including the citadel, had three gate-ways. One is toward Kelibelh, and has without it vaults of fepuichres. The entrance was not wide. A part of the arch, confining of a fingle row of maffive ftones, flill remains; but thofe on which it refts are fo corroded by age, broken, or diftorted, as to feem every moment ready to yield and let down their load. A rugged way leads to a fecond opening in the wall oppofite to this, and as we gueffed, about a mile from it ; beyond which are likewife vaults of fepuichres. Between thefe was agate facing the plain; and on the left hand going out of it is a hole, refembling the mouth of an oven, in the fide of a fquare tower ; and over it an infcription in fmall characters exceedingly difficult to be read 2 . It fignifies, that a certain Cyprian, in his lleep, had beheld Ceres and Proferpine, arrayed in white; and that in three vifiona they had enjoined the worfhip of a hero, the guardian of the city, and pointed out the place, where in obedience to them he had erecled the god. This was probably fome local hero, whofe little image was fet in the wall, and whofe name and memory have perifhed. The modern hiftory of Priene, as well as of Miletus, is very imperfect. It is now called Samfun and Samfun-kalefi, which names feem not very recent. Samfun is among the places taken in 1391 byBajazet, who fubdued Ionia. jlnfcript. Ant. p. 14. p. 15. p. 16. 2 Infcript. Ant. p. 13. X CHAP. 162 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. CHAP. XLIX. Mount Tit anus— Rocks in the plain — The Meander— We are en- tangled on the mountain — Benighted — Arrive at Myus. W E have mentioned in a preceding chapter, that on Gal- lefus, we faw a fummit remarkably craggy. The clouds reft on its tops, which, being weather-worn, are of a whitifh mining afpe<5t. Thefe continued long vifible in various parts of the country, and fometimes far remote. The antient name of the mountain was Titanus, taken from their colour as refembling chalk'. Beneath the ridge on the fouth-fide, by a lake, is Bafi or Capoumoulu, fix hours, as we were told, from Kelibefh. The Greek our hoft undertook to conduct us thither. We left the village on the fifteenth of April at fcven in the morning. We found the torrent-bed, which occafioned our perplexity in going to Miletus, lefs formidable here, crofting it by a wooden bridge made for foot paffengers. It had re- ceived fome water from the late rains, which had alfo flooded the plain at the foot of the mountain. The air was fharp ; and mow, recently fallen, gliftened on the northern fummits. About nine, we came to three, diftincl, bare rocks, refemblin» iflets of the iEgean fea, but furrounded with land inftead of water. On one is a village named Ofebafha, and on the fide next Priene is a very wide torrent-bed. We went on, and after half an hour were flopped by the Maeander. Here we were ferried over in a triangular float, with a rope, in two minutes and a half. The ftream was broad, rapid, and muddy, but low within the banks, which were indented by i CK Smyrnseus a 280. Strabo, p, 439. the TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 163 the gradual finking of its furface. We afcended the mountain, and enjoyed a delicious view of the river, croffing with mazy windings from the foot of mount Meflogis, the northern boun- dary of the plain. We were informed at the ferry, that the road to Baft, diftant from thence four hours, was bad. We met on it a few camels, which carry their burthens high on their backs, or I mould have defcribed it as only not abfolutely impaffable. It lies over a branch of Titanus, which mountain is uncommonly rough and horrid, confifting of huge, lingle, irregular, and naked rocks piled together; poifed, as it were, on a point; or hanging dread- fully over the track; and interfperfed with low ihrubs and Hunted oaks. Our horfes fuffered exceedingly, Aiding down, or jam- med with their burthens, or violently forced from the road, and rolling over the ileeps ; and our men were much jaded with loading and unloading them, and bruifed by tranfporting our baggage on their moulders at the narrow pafles. We were benighted in this wild mountain, when we came to a ftrait, where the difficulty feemed infurmountable. Three or four of us at length puihed through; and leading our horfes into a vale beneath, committed them to the care of the Janizary. We then joined our companions in diftrefs, who were perplexed above; and, lighting candles, began, all hands, to carry down our baggage piece-meal. The Greek atoned in fome meafure for bringing us this way by his laborious activity, in which he was equalled by our Swifs ; but the Armenians are a dull and heavy race. We pitched our tent near a tree, not far from a •rill, on a green fpot furrounded with brown, naked rocks. Our toil was renewed in the morning, but about noon we got clear from the mountain. When near Bafi, we entered a imall plain half-encircled with a bare ridge. This avenue had been barricaded. We pitched our tent foon after upon a pleafant green area within the city-walls of Myus. X 2 CHA P. 164 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. CHAP. L. Of Myus — The fite arid remains — Graves, &£. — An oratory— Another — Ruined churches and monajieries — Of Thymbria — Gyiats andjlies. THE ftory of Myus is remarkable, but not lingular. A town by Pergamum, named Atarneus, had fuffered in the fame manner. Myus originally was feated on a bay of the fea, not large, but abounding in fifh. Hence, this city was given to Themiftocles to furnilh that article for his table. The bay changed into a lake, and became freih. Myriads of gnats fwarmed on it, and the town was devoured, as it were, from the water. The Myufians retired from this enemy to Miletus, carrying away all their moveables and the flatues of their gods. They were incorporated with the Milefians, and lacrificed, and gave their fuffrage with them at the Panionian congrefs. Pau- fanias relates, that nothing remained at Myus in his time, but a temple of Bacchus of white ftone. J The fite of Myus is as romantic as its fortune was extraor- dinary. The wall inclofes a jumble of naked rocks rudely piled, of a dark difmal hue, with precipices and van* hollows, from which perhaps flone has been cut. A few hues, inhabited by Turkifh families, are of the fame colour, and fcracely diftin- guifhable. Beyond thefe, fronting the lake, you find on the left hand a Theatre hewn in the mountain, with fome moffy rem- nants of the wall of the profcenium or front ; but the marble feats are removed. Between the huts and the lake are feveral terraces with iteps cut as at Priene. One, by which our tent ftood, was a quadrangular area edged with marble fragments; and we conjectured, it had been the market-place. By another i p. 207. Vitruviusl. 4. c. 1. Strabop. 636. Diodorus fie. 1. it. c 57. were TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 165 were ftones ornamented with fhields of a circular form. But the moft confpicuous ruin is the fmall temple of Bacchus, which is feated on an abrupt rock, with the front only, which is toward the eaft, acceflible. The roof is deftroyed. The cell is well-built, of fmooth ftone with a brown cruft on it. The por- tico was in Antis. We meafured fome marble fragments be- longing to it, and regretted that any of the members were mif- fing. This edifice has been ufed as a church, and the entrance walled up with patch-work. The marbles, which lie fcattered about, the broken columns, and mutilated ftatues all witnefs a remote antiquity. We met with fome infcriptions, but not legible. The city-wall was conftructed, like that at Ephefus, with fquare towers, and is ftill ftanding, except toward the water.- It runs up the mountain-flope fo far as to be in fome places hardly difcernible. Without the city are the coemeteries of its early inhabi- tants ; graves cut in the rock, of all fizes fuited to the human ftature at different ages ; with innumerable flat ftones, which ferved as lids. Some are yet covered, and many open, and, by the lake, filled with water. The lids are over-grown with a fhort, dry, brown mofs, their very afpect evincing old age. We were mown one infcription ', clofe by a fmall hut in a narrow pafs of the mountain weftward, on marble, in large characters. It records a fon of Seleucus, who died young, and the affliction of his parents ; concluding with a tender expoftulation with them on the inefHcacy and impropriety of their immoderate forrow. Nearer the city, among fome trees, is a well with the bafe of a column perforated on the mouth. A couple of Myufians, who undertook to fhow fomething extraordinary, conducted me, with one of my companions, up into the mountain on the eaft fide of the city; on which are many traces of antient walls and towers. We climbed feveral rocks in the way ; our guides with bare feet, carrying in their hands their papouches or flippers, which were of red leather ; a 1 Iufcrpt, Ar.t. p. 18. colour 166 TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. colour not allowed to be worn, except by Turks.' We came in about an hour to a large rock, which was fcooped out, and had the infide painted with the hiftory of Chrift. in compart- ments, and with heads of bifhops and faints. It is in one of the moft wild and retired receffes imaginable. Before the picture of the crucifixion was a heap of ftones piled as an altar, and fcraps of charcoal, which had been ufed in burning incenfe; with writing on the wall. Going back, I tarried with one of the Turks, while a fhower fell, in a fingle rock, hollowed out ; with the door-way above the level of the ground. It ftands diftinct and tall. On the dome within Chrift was pourtrayed, and on the round beneath, the Panagia or Virgin, with faints. The figures are large and at full length ; the defign and colouring fuch as may be viewed with pleafure. On the plafter are infcriptions painted, and faint from age. One, which I carefully copied ', informs us, the oratory had been beautified for the fake of the prayers and fal- vation of a certain fub-deacon and his parents. Here feemed to have been a quarry. The brown rocks had graves on their tops, and the foft freih turf between them was enamelled with flowers. It may be inferred from the remnants of the monasteries and churches, which are numerous, that Myus was re-peopled, when Monkery fpreading from Egypt, toward the end of the fourth century, over-ran the Greek and Latin empires. The lake abounding in large and fine fifh, afforded an article of diet not unimportant under a ritual, which enjoined frequent abftinence from flefh. It probably contributed to render this place, what it appears to have been, a grand refort of fanciful devotees and fecluded hermits, a nurfery of faints, another Athos or holy mountain. We were fupplied with corn for "our horfes and with provi- sions from a village by the head of the lake ; where are veftiges of antient building. There probably was Thymbria 2 , a village ilnfcript. Ant. p. 18. 2Strabo, p. 5-9. p. 636. in TRAVELS in ASIA MINOR. 167 in Caria, within four Stadia or half a mile of Myus ; by which was a Charonium or facred cave ; one of thofe which the antients fuppofed to communicate with the infernal regions, and to be filled with the deadly vapours of lake Avernus. We purchafed bad water from the huts in Myus at a dear rate ; and fifh taken in the lake with a fmall trident. The carp here and by the Masander were exceedingly fine. The old nuifance of Myus, gnats, fwarmed already in the air, teafing us exceedingly ; and, toward the evening, the in- fide of our tent was blackened with flies cluttering round about the poles. One of our men, thinking to expell and deftroy them by a fudden explofion of gunpowder, procured a momen- tary riddance, and fet fire to the canvas in three or four places. CHAP. LI. ! The lake of Myus — An ijlet — A rock in the lake— Another ijlet — Another — function of the lake with the Mceander — Altars and niches. THE lake of Myus is vifible both from Priene and Miletus, and is called by the neighbouring Greeks (ddxour