H ■ ' / ■ ■«U •; . ■ 1 ■ * ■ ■ ■ ■ ""," 1 ■ ■ ■ m ffl ■ i R9H .* ■* ■ ^H '-'iV- ■ ■ -i-i. 'i ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ I ■ r Hi ■ -&;. ■ ■"it'* ^H * «•»** ^H B Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://archive.org/details/historicalrelatiOOoval An Hiftorical RELATION OF THE Kingdom of CHILE. BY ALO N SO D E OVALLE, O F The Company of JESUS, A Native of St. J ago of Chile », and Procurator at Rome for that Place. Printed at Rome by Francisco Cavallo, 164.0. with Licence of his Superiors. Tranflated out of Spanijh into Englijh. T H E I J 15m tnr- ^ >ifii* THE Tranflator's PREFACE. WHEN the translation of the hiftory of Chile was firft undertaken, it was more out of confideration of ma- king that part of the world, fo remote from ours, better known, as to the geographical part, the natural hiftory, and the firft fettlements of the Spaniards, than to enter into a diftin£t narrative of the events of that invasion, which contain little in- ftru&ion, being between a people of great arts and abilities on one fide, and another of great natural courage, and no culture of the mind or body, on the other. The cafe was fo extravagantly unequal between them, when the odds of guns, armour, horfes, and difci- pline, are weighed againft nakednefs, anarchy, panick terrors, and Simplicity, that it feems a kind of prodigy that the love of liberty and a ftock of natural unpolifhed bravery, ftiould hold a conteft with armed avarice, fpirited by fuperftitious zeal, for almoft a whole century. The natural hiftory of Chile is fo admirably performed, that it may be a model for mod relations of that kind; for there are ex- acl defcriptions of all the beafts, birds, fillies, plants, minerals, coafts, rivers, bays, and inhabitants of the country, that can be wilhed for. There is, befides, an excellent account of the climate, the feafons, the winds, the manner of living both of the Indians and the Spaniards. The defcription of the great Cordillera, or chain of mountains, which runs for almoft a thoufand leagues in a parallel line with the South Sea, and divides Chile from the ultra moun- tain provinces, is fo accurate, that nothing of that kind can be more fo : the narrative of the manner of travelling through thofe vaft plains of Cuyo and Tucuman, as far as Buenos Ayres, and the river of Plata ; the topographical defcription of the ftreights of Magellan, with all its bays, ports, and its whole navigation, are of great inftru£tion, as well as very entertaining. In all this the jefuit, who was the author of this hiftory, mud be confeflfed to have defer ved the character of a candid inquifitive philofopher ; and in what he has performed befides, about the fettlements of the Spaniards, he is very particular, efpecially in his defcription of the city of St. Jago de Chile; where any one may fee the progrefs of prieft-crafc in that new world, by the vaft riches of the convents, monafteries, and nunneries : but above all the in- ftructive chapters of this treatife, there is one about the methodsof driving a trade between Europe and Chile to and from the Philippines and The Tranflator's PREFACE and Eafl Indies, which contains iecrets of commerce and naviga- tion, which I wonder how they were publifhed, and 'tis poffible may, e're it be long, be praclifed by the Spaniards and other nations, if the navigation of the Mexican gulph becomes fo troublefome, as it is like to be made by the naval powers of Europe, who feem to have chofe thofe feas for the fcene of all their maritime power to exert itfelf in. There is a digreffion about the firft difcovery of the iflands and continent of America by Columbus, and a progrellive narration of all the other difcoveries, as they were made, and by whom, which is very curious ; but as it is borrowed from other writers, the author can challenge no other merit than that of a judicious compiler. All that needs to be added to this preface, is, to let the world know that the translation was firft encouraged by the Royal So- ciety, of which the tranflator has the honour to be a member ; and that it was two fummers work, that it might be the lefs fubjecT: to errors; and to prevent them, that worthy encourager of all natural knowledge, as well as of his own profeffion, in which he excels, Dr. Hans Sloane, has contributed very obligingly fome of his care and attention. THE ( I) BOOK L Of the Nature and Properties of the Kingdom of Chile. CHAP. I. Of the Situation j Climate , and c Divifion of the Kingdom of C HIL E. THE kingdom of Chile, which is the uttcrmoft bounds of South America, and has the kingdom of Peru to the noth, begins at th- 25th degree of fouth latitude, to- wards the Antartick Pole, and is extended in length five hundred leagues, as far as the ftreights of Magellan, and its oppofite land, called La Tierra del Fuego, which reaches to the 59th degree. The breadth of Chile is various ; for it may be faid to extend it- felf one hundred arid fifty leagues eaft and weft, becaule though that which is properly call'd Chile, is not in many places above twenty or thirty leagues broad, which is generally its extent from the fea to the fa- mous Cordillera Nevada, or chain of moun- tains cover'd with mow, (of which we (hall fpeak in its proper place,) yet in the divi- fion of the bounds of the feveral govern- ments of America, the king added to Chile thofe vaft plains of Cuyo, which runs in length as far as Chile does, and are above twice as broad. The oppofite part of the world to this kingdom, is the meridian that paffes be- tween the ifland Taprobana of the Antients, • which is Zeilon, and cape Comorin, begin- ning at twenty fix degrees north of the equi- noctial line. The inhabitants are properly antipodes to thofe of Chile ; and thofe who inhabit the countries that reach from thirty ftven degrees to forty four of the moil wefterly parts of New Guinea, would be alfo diametrically antipodes to the inhabi- tants of Caftille ; but 'tis yet uncertain, whe- ther that part of the world is land or water •, but this is certain, that it falls out in the divifion of Caftille, and is oppofite to it, and is weft from Chile one thoufand feven hundred leagues. Climate. This kingdom is comprehended in the third, fourth, and fifth climate: In that 5>art of it which is in the third climate, the ongeft day is . thirteen hours ; and in the fifth climate, the day at longeft is about fourteen hours, and fomething more, quite Vol. III. contrary to Europe, as being oppofite to it, Ovalle. but not diametrically ; for the longeft day "-^j, in Chile is St. Lucias, and the lhorteft *"^V^ / St. Barnaby's ; the fan is always there to- wards the north, and the fhadows to the fouth. This is the fituation of the kingdom of Chile, which borders upon the north with the province of Aracama, and the rich mines of filver of Potcfi, where the king- dom of Peru begins ; and on the fouth it has the great fea to the pole, and the iflands dif over'd in it. Abraham Orteliuswzs of opinion, that there was on this fouth fide of the kingdom of Chile, a land which was contiguous with New Guinea ; and this opi- nion lafted till we were undeceiv'd by thofe, who having pafs'd by theftreightof St. Vin- cent, otherwife call'd the ftreight of Le Maire, went round that fouth land call'd the Tierra del Fuego, and return'd to the north fea by the ftreights of Magellan ; proving evidently the faid land to be an ifland entirely feparated from any other land ; as I fhall Ihew further in its proper place. Chile has on the eaft Tucuman and Buenos Ayres, and to the north eaft Paraguay and Brafil; to the weft it has the South-Sea, which, according to the opinion of Antonio de Herrera, is all that is comprehended be- tween Chile and China, and begins at the Golden Cherjonefus, or the ifland of Sumatra ; and that fea is in breadth, eaft and weft, two thoufand feven hundred leagues. According to what has been faid, we Divifion. may divide this kingdom into three parts : The firft and principal is that which is com- prehended between the Cordillera Nevada and the South-Sea, which is properly call'd Chile. The fecond contains the iflands which are fow'd up and down upon its coaft as far as the ftreights of Magellan. The third contains the province of Cuyo, which is on the other fide of the fnowy mountains, call'd the Cordillera Nevada, and run in length all along as far as the ftreights, and B in * Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovalle. in breadth extends to the confines of Tucu- l6 4 6 - man. V ^V**-' To begin then with that part which is moft properly call'd Chile : I confefs I had rather the defcription of it had fallen to the lot of fome ftranger who had feen it ; for then the danger of pafling for too par- tial for one's own country (to which are expos'd all thofe who write of k) would have been more eafily avoided, and fuch a one might with lefs apprehenfion enlarge upon the excellent properties which God has been pleas'd to endow it with. The common opinion of all thofe who have come from Em-ope to it, is, that its foil and its climate exceed all others they have feen ; though, perhaps, in that they only make a return for the kind welcome they all meet with in thofe parts. As for my part, all I can fay, is, that though it be like Eu- rope in every thing, except in the oppofition of the feafons, which are tranfpos'd, it be- ing fpring and fummer in die one, when it is autumn and winter in the other, yet it has fome properties which do really fingu- larize it, and deferve the praifes given it by travellers ; for, firft, neither the heat nor the cold are fo exceflive as in Europe, particularly as far as the 45th degree of la- titude, for from thence to die pole the ri- gorous and exceflive cold begins. Tempera- The fituation accidental of the land of ture of the Chile, muft be the caufe of this temperature of the air ; for being cover'd on the eaft by the high mountains of the Cordillera, which are all fo prodigioufly elevated, it receives the frefh and cooling breezes from the fea ; and the tides which penetrate as far as the foot of the mountains, joining with the coolnefs of the fnow, with which they are cover'd, refrefh the Air fo, that about four a-clock in the afternoon the heat is no ways troublefome. Nay, if one is in the fhade, one may fay, that in no hour of die day die fun is infupportable, efpecially from thirty fix degrees or thereabouts, nei- ther day nor night the heat can be com- plained of; which is the caufe, that at the town of the Conception, which is in that fituation, the covering for beds is the fame winter and fummer, neither of thofe feafons being any ways troublefome. Chile free Another good quality of this country is, from Ugh- to b e f ree f rom lightening ; for though fometimes thunder is heard, tis at a great diftance up in the mountain. Neither does there fall any hail in the fpring or fummer ; or are thofe ftorms of thunder and lighten- ing feen here, which in other parts make the bells be rung out, and the clouds to be exorcized ■, neither are there fo many cloudy days in winter as in other parts ; but moft commonly after the rain has lafted two or three days, the heavens clear up, and look ttnmg, as if the sky had been wafh'd, without the leaft cloud, in a very fhort time after the rain ; for as foon as ever the north wind, which brings the cloudy weather, ceafes, the fouth fucceeds, and in a few hours drives away the rain ; or if it be in the night- time, the dew falls, and the fun rifes brigh- ter than ever. This country is yet to be valued upon AnJallpoi- another propriety of it, which is, that irj*»«w «■**- is free from poifonous creatures, fuch as""'"" vipers and fnakes, fcorpions or ' toads ; fo that one may venture to fit under a tree, or lie down and rowl on the ground, without fear of being bit by them. Neither are there tygers, panthers, or any other mif- chievous animals •, except fome lions of a fmall kind, which fometimes do harm to the flocks of fheep or goats, but never to men, whom they fly from •, and this is not only in the cultivated land, where men are frequent, but in the woods and folitude, and in the thickeft groves, of which there are fome fo clofe with trees, that one can hardly break through them afoot. I heard a friar of ours, who was an excellent Buil- der, fay, that having gone for three months together in woods, where there was no fign of any one's having pafs'd before, to find out trees proper for the timber of the church of St. J ago, he had never met with the leaft poifonous creature, that could either caufe a naufeous idea, or a dangerous effect. There is another moft wonderful fingu- No bugt lariry of this fame country, which is, that w ' tf '"" not only it does not breed, but will not' /r " r '" fuffer any punaixes or bugs to live in it; which is the more to be admir'd, that on the other fide the mountains they fwarm. I never faw one in it alive, for fometimes there are fome in the goods and furniture of people who come from the province ofCuyo ; but as foon as they feel the air of Chile they d ie. The experience that was made of this, by one that was either curious or malicious enough, was wonderful ; for coming from Cuyo to Chile, he brought fome of thofe creatures with him, well put up in a Box, and fuch food provided for them as to keep them alive ; but no fooner were they come to the valley of Aconcagua, which is the firft valley coming down from the moun- tains, but they all died, not fo much as one remaining alive. I do not fay any thing here of the mines of gold, nor of thofe excellent waters which, running from them, are cordial and heal- thy ; nor of die abundance of provifions for life, nor of the phyfical plants, nor of many other rare qualities in which this coun- try exceeds others, as well to avoid confu- fion, as becaufe thofe things will be better fhew'd when we come to treat of each of them in particular in their proper place. In Chap. i. Kingdom of CHILE. The cli- mate and foil of Chile very like thofe of Europe. Several lands in the fame lati- tude with Chile, yet much dif- fering in tlimate from that and Eu- rope. In all other things the land of Chile is fo like Europe, both in climate and foil, that there is very fmall or no difference ; and it is very remarkable, that in fuch va- riety of difcoveries made in America, none is fo conformable in every thing with the European constitution, as this tract of Chile ; for in moft of the places between the tropicks, as Brafil, Cartagena, Pana- ma, Portobello, and thofe coalts in that fi- tuation, the heats are violent, and conti- nual all the year ; and in fome other places, fuch as Potoji, and the mountains of Peru, the cold is as exceffive ; in fome they have a winter without rain, and have their rain in fummer, when their heat is higheft; others there are, where they have neither wine, oil, nor wheat of their own product ; and though in fome they may have thefe productions, yet the other fruits of Europe do not take with them ; but Chile has, juft as Europe, its four feafons, of fpring, fum- mer, autumn, and winter •, it does not rain in fummer, but in winter •, and all the pro- duct of Europe agrees with their foil. One thing is much to be admir'd, and that is, that the land of Cuyo, that of'Tu- cuman, and Buenos Ayres, being all in the fame latitude with Chile, are neverthelefs fo different in climate from it and from Europe ; for though in thofe parts it freezes exceedingly, fo as to freeze water within doors, and that their cattle, if left abroad, die with cold, yet there does not fall a drop of rain all the winter, and the fun fhines out fo bright and clear, that not a cloud is to be leen : But in the fpring they have fuch abundance of rain, that it would drown the whole country, if the fhowers lafted as long as in Europe or in Chile;' for when the rain lafts but an hour and a half, the ftreets are full of ftreams in the towns, and the carts are up to their axle-trees, though they are very high inOvALLE thofe parts, and all the country is as it Jfy-d. were a fea : There fall likewife at that time V ^V > "' thunder-ftones, and hail as big as a hen's egg, nay, as geefe eggs, and fometimes as big as oftriches; as I myfelf have feen. All thefe ftorms and varieties of weather form themfelves in the high mountains, that are a kind of wall to the kingdom of Chile ; and they never come fo far down as to invade its territories, but flop at them like a barricado ; for in Chile the weather is always fteddy and conftant, without fud- den changes, all the fpring, fummer, and autumn ; in winter, indeed, there are de- grees of heat and cold, as there is a diffe- rence in the length and fhortnefs of the days, according to the degrees of the lati- tude, and courle of the fun, which caufes the fame variation as in Europe, though in oppofite months. From hence it follows, as authors do A great obferve, and experience teaches, that there r /f em " , muft be, and is, a great refemblance be- tmm t jf t tween the animals and other productions of animals Chile and thofe of Europe. As a proof'""' '*"' of this, I have feen feveral gentlemen thatf™"^ came to Chile from other parts of America, chile, and either as commanders, or for other employ- *H' °f ments, which are in the king's difpofal, in- E^P 6 ' credibly overjoy'd at this conformity with Europe ; for they think themfelves, as it were, in their native country, the air and the provifions of both fo like in their qualities : The meats are more nourishing than in hot- ter climates ; and when thofe who have been either born or bred in thofe hot coun- tries come to Chile, they are forced to ab- ftain, and keep a watch upon their appe- tites, till their ftomachs are ufed by little and little to the ftrength of the food of that country, and can digeft it. The four (eafons. Winter. CHAP. II. Of the four Seafons of the Tear, and particularly of the Winter and Spring: With a Tf)efcrif>tion of fome Flowers and Medicinal Tlants. TH E four feafons of the year, which are in Europe the fpring, the fummer, the autumn, and the winter, are with the fame duration of time enjoyed in Chile, though not exactly under the fame names, at the fame time •, for the fpring begins about the middle of the European Auguft, and lafts to the middle of November ; then begins the fummer, which holds to the middle of February ; which is followed by the autumn, which lafts to the middle of May ; and then the winter enters, and makes all the trees bare of their leaves, and the earth cover'd with white frofts, ("which neverthelefs diffolve about two hours after fun-rife, except in fome cloudy days, that the ificles laft from one day to an- other ;) the winter ends again about the middle of Auguft. 'Tis very feldom that the fnow falls in the valleys or low grounds, though fo great a quantity is upon the mountains, that it fills up fometimes all the holiow places to the height of feveral. pikes, and there remains, as it were, in wells and refervatories, to provide, as it does in due time, fo many fprings and ri- vers with water, fo fertilizing the valleys and plains, that they produce infinite crops of all forts in the autumn, and enrich the kingdom. But notwithftanding that it feldora ' Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovalle. feldom fnows in the valleys and plains, yet 1646. i t i s f co id i n them, that few parts of Eu- * r ^ 'rope are colder; which proceeds not only from the degree of elevation this land is in, but alfo from its neighbourhood to thofe vaft mountains called the Cordillera, who fend out fuch fharp and piercing winds,, that fometimes they are infupportable ; therefore the fea. coaft is much more tem- perate and warm; but in return, much more expofed to vehement tempefts of winds, than the inland parts, where thefe ftorms are in fome meafure fpent before they reach them, and fo cannot whip them and torment them as they do the fea coafts. rhom- For fome protection againft thefe fharp bufas in co \d w i n d s , God Almighty has placed fe- sfirjhg"' veral S reat clufters of thorn-bufhes, which plenty of thrive fo well, that it is the ordinary fewel ftwel. f all the countries about the town of St. J ago, and the valleys near it. It is a plant not unlike an oak, though more du- rable ; the heart of the wood is red, and incorruptible ; of it they make coals for the furnace, and other fhop ufes. In other parts the true oak ferves for the fame pur- pofe ; as in the territory of the city of Con- ception, where there are very large woods of them, which are fo thick, that though they have already ferved for the ufes of the natives fo many years, yet when they are enter'd, they can hardly be paffed in the middle •, and this within half a league of the city •, for further up in the country there are forefts, where no man ever fet his foot. Ever- Though thefe oaks, as alfo the fruit- grtmi. trees, lofe their leaves in winter, yet there are wild trees which do not, though all co- vered with ice and fnow -, and the cold is fo far from injuring them, that when the fun melts the froft, they look brighter and more beautiful. As foon as the firft rains come, the fields begin to be cloathed in green, and the earth is covered in twenty or thirty days with grafs ; amongft which nature produces a fort of yellow flower in fuch abundance, that the plains and valleys look like carpets of green and yel- low. string. Thefe firft rains feem to prepare the earth for its ornamental drefs of flowers with the fpring, which begins about the middle of Auguft ; and diey laft till De- cember, that the heats come in, and that with fuch variety and abundance of fo •many kinds, that the fields look as if they had been painted, producing a moft de- Defcr'rptitm lightful object. I remember once, as I of fome Wus travelling, I faw fo great a diverfity flowers, f ine j e fl owers> f orne fcarlet, others blue, yellow, red, ftraw-colour, purple, &c. that I was mov'd to tell them, and I told in a fhort time two and forty forts, fo ad- mirable was their variety ; and yet I do not reckon among thefe the cultivated ones in gardens, nor thofe that were brought from Europe, fuch as carnations, rofes, flock- gillyflowers, orange, lillies, poppies, lu- pins, &c. I only fpeak of thofe that grow wild, which are fo odoriferous and fvveet- fcented, that 'tis out of them that they diftil a water call'd aqua d'angeles, or, an- gel's-water. The fmell of thefe flowers is perceived fweeteft at the rifing and fetting of the fun ; which mingled with the fcent emitted by the herbs, which are very aro- matick, produce a moft admirable perfume, and for that reafon they put the fprputs and tops of them among the flowers which make the angel-water. It is fcarce poflible to exprefs the force with which the earth puts forth thefe plants, which is fo great, that in many places 'tis. hard to diftinguifh the cultivated from the uncultivated lands. One would think at firft that all had been plowed and fowed alike ; and with the continuance of the rains, the grafs runs up fo ftrong, and grows fo intricate, that a horfe can hardly break through it, it coming in moft places to the faddle-girts. Muftard-feed, turnips, mint, fennel, Piaw^&c. trefoil, and other plants, which I fee are fowed and cultivated in Europe, for the juft efteem that is made of them, do all grow wild in Chile, without ferving to the ufe of life at all, otherwife than by the cattle's feeding on them, which they may do for feveral leagues together. The muf- tard plant thrives fo mightily, that it is as big as one's arm, and fo high and thick, that it looks like a tree. I have travelled many leagues through muftard groves, which were taller than horfe and man ; and the birds build their nefts in them, as the gofpel mentions in thefe words, ita ut vo- Mat. xiii. lucres cceli veniant 6? habit ent in ratnis ejus; '*• fo that the birds of the air come and lodge in the branches thereof. There are many plants of great virtue charaaer in phyiick, and known only to the Indians, °f ! he Ma - call'd Machis, who are a race of men that j hls ' °J ,n " are their doctors. Thefe plants they conceal ,'™. ' carefully, and particularly from the Spa- niards, to whom if they communicate the knowledge of one or two, it is a great mark of their friendfhip ; but the know- ledge of the reft they referve, and it paf- fes from father to fon. Thefe Machis, or doctors, are not only efteem'd by the In- dians, but by the Spaniards themfelves, who have recourfe to them in the greateft extre- mities, when the difeafe prefTes moft. They find wonderful effects from the application of diefe fimples, which they ufe in a lefTer dofe with the Spaniards than with the h- dia*::, Chap. 2. Kingdom of CHILE. 5 d'nms, who are of a more robuft nature, and - ftronger conftitution. Two re- I ^ aw one °f our ° r der much troubled markabk with the falling-ficknefs and fwooning fits, cures per- fo as j ie was f orcec l t h ave always fome formed by ^V^. chis, °le Ma- body in his company, or elfe he might have his. fallen down Hairs, or otherwife killed him- felf: he had ufed all the remedies that the learning of phyficians and the charity of re- ligious men could fuggeft, but without any efteft at all ; nay, he was worfe and worfe every day. Our fathers learned at laft, that about twelve leagues off from that place there lived an Indian Machi: they lent for him ; and being come, and having heard the relation of his diftemper, he gave him as much of a certain herb in wine as the bignefs of a nail ; and it had lb great an effect, that it took away the diftemper, as if he had taken it away with his hand, the perfon being never troubled with it more, all the time I knew him. I have feen many other cures performed by thefe Machis, particularly in cafes of poifon •, for in that fort of diftemper they are very eminent. I fhall mention but one inftance, of a gentleman who had been pi- ning away for feveral years, and often at death's door : once, being in extream dan- ger, he heard of a famous Machi who lived a great way off", but was a fhe-doctor, (for there are women amongft them eminent in the art :) he procured, by prefents, to have her fent for •, and having promifed her a confiderable reward, befides what he gave her in hand, which lie was well able to per- form, being very rich and powerful, fhe began to apply her remedies, which were herbs-, and one day, when fhe fliw his body prepared to part with the poifon, fhe caufed a great filver voider to be fet in the middle of the room, and there, in the p re- fence of many people, the gentleman having firft been very fick in his ftomach, he caft up the poifon which had been given him many years before, wrapp'd up in hair, which came up with it; and he was perfect- ly well after this, as he himfelf related to me. Though, as I have faid, the Indians are fo clofe in keeping fecret the herbs they ufe, yet many of them, perfuaded by reafon, and induced by friendfhip, do communi- cate fomething-, and time and experience has difcover'd fo many more, that if I fhould mention them all, I ftiould be fore'd to make a book on purpole of them ; there- fore I fhall only mention three that I have more prefent in my memory, the effects of which are prodigious. Defcrifiion The firft fhall be the famous plant call'd of fome Quinchamali, which rifes not a foot above 'herbs? 9 ' tne ground, and its branches fpread like a nofegay, and end in little flowers at the \ Vol. III. paints, which, both in colour and fhape, Ovalle. are not unlike the faffron call'd Rami. , ^£- They pull up the herb, and boil it entire with its root, leaves, and flowers, in fair water, which is given to the Patient to drink hot: amongft other effects it pro- duces, one is to diffblve all coagulated blood in the body, and that very quickly ; fo that an Indian feeling himfelf wounded, takes it immediately, to hinder the blood that could not come out at the wound from congealing inwardly, and fo prevents all im- pofthumation, and the corruption of the reft. There happened in our college of St. fa- go an accident, which gave proof of this ad- mirable herb ; which was, That an Indian belonging to us being gone to the great place to fee the bull-feaft, a bull, to his great misfortune, catch'd him up, and tofs'd him in the air, and left him almoft dead on the ground ; he was brought to our houfe, and the phyfician, being called, faid he was a dead man, and nothing could five him : but, however, he told the father that has care of the fick, that it would coft but little to give him the Quincbamali, wrap him up warm, and leave him alone fome hours. It was done accordingly •, and after fome time, the father reforting to the place where they had laid him, to fee if he was dead, he was found not only alive, but out of danger, and the fheet all full of blood, which the herb had caus'd him to void through the pores of his body, fo as he re- main'd perfectly well in a little time. The fecond herb is that which we Spa- niards call Albaaquilla, and the Indians, Culen, becaufe its leaves are like the leaves of fweet bafil : it grows in bufhes fo high, that they feem to be trees ; the leaves are very fragrant, and fweet like honey : be- ing bruifed, it is applied to the wound out- wardly, and fome drops of its juice are to be poured alfo into the wound ; after which moll admirable effects of its efficacy are ken. I was told by captain Sebaftian Garcia Carrero, the founder of our novitiat-houfe of Bucalemo^ that as he was travelling with a dog in his company, which he loved extremely, fome wild monkeys that live in the mountains fell upon him, and fo worried him among them by biting him, fome on one fide and fome on the other, that they left him full of wounds, and particularly with one large one in his throat : his mafter came up at laft, and found him without fign of life : he was much troubled for the lofs of his dog, and lighted to fee what he could do for him. This Albaaqitilla is an herb that grows every where in the fields ; and the gentleman, at a venture, gathering three or four handfuls of it, bruized them between C two Of tie Nature and 'Properties of the Book J. OvALLE.two ftones, and poured the juice into the 1646. dog's wounds, and into the great one ot VV^ his throat he thruft a handful of it, and fo left him without hopes of life : but it fell out wonderfully, that after a few leagues travelling on, turning back to look at fomething, he faw his dog following at a diftance, who was fo well cured that he lived many years after. The third herb, that I can remember, is like a knot of fine hair, and which is not commonly met with : this is an admirable herb in fevers and pleurifies ; it is boiled in water, and drank ; it purifies and clean- fes the blood, expelling diat which is bad, and fo the fick body remains perfectly cured •, as I my felf have had die experience of it. There are feveral other plants, fome of which cure the pains of the liver; others dif- folve the ftone in the bladder, and break it to pieces •, fome are excellent for the fciatica. and other infirmities ; all which, if I were to relate in particular, I fhould make 3 new diofcorides, or herbal, which is not my intention. We will therefore leave the flowers and herbs of the fpring, the har- mony of the finging of birds, which fo re- joices the mornings, and the fixene and quiet days of this feafon, to draw near the fummer; which will afford us matter of difcourfe. CHAP. III. Of the Summer and Autumn, and their 'Produfi. summer. HpHE Summer begins in the middle of JL November, and lafts to the middle of February, fo that the greater! heats are at Chriftmas ; and we are forc'd to have re- courfe to our faith, to confider the Child God trembling with cold in the manger ; for when we rife to fing matins, particu- larly in Cuyo and tucuman, where the heats are exceflive, we are ready to melt with heat. In Chile the heats are not fo excef- five, becaufe the country is more tempe- rate ; but ftill the weather is not fo cold as it was in Bethlcm. About this time the fruits begin to ripen, which are in great variety ; and there are but few of thofe of Europe that are wanting •, for as foon as any of them are brought, either in ftone, feed, or plant, they take, and 'tis wonder- ful to fee how they thrive. I remember about thirty years ago there were no cherries; there coming by chance a little tree from Spain, from which all the curious began to multiply them in their gardens, (it being both a rarity, and a valuable fruit ;) in a fmall time they were fo increafed, that they were banilh'd from the gardens to the fields, becaufe they produced fo ma- ny young plants from their roots, that they took up all the ground about them. Defmptlon Of the fruits of Peru, Mexico, and all of frmts. the continent of America, not one will grow in Chile ; and the reafon is, the oppofition of the climate of Chile ; nay, though they bring either plant, feed, or fetting, they never thrive ; for thofe countries are within the tropicks, and Chile is out of them : for which reafon alfo the fruits of Europe take fo well in Chile, fuch as pears, abricots, figs, peaches, quinces, &V. which bear infinitely •, and if there is not care taken to lefTen their number when lit- tle, it is impofiible for the boughs to bear the weight of the fruit, fo that they are fain to prop them up with forks when they grow near ripe. The fruit that exceeds all the reft for bearing, is the apple of all kinds, of which there are prodigious orchards ; and of thefe, though they lefien the number, yet the others increafe fo much in weight, that the trees are brought down to the ground; fo that there are many windfalls, filling all the ground about them, and the very rivers on which they ftand, and flop- ping the courfe of the water. All the crops of oats, wheat, maiz, and Gram, all other garden product, begin to be cut in December, and fo on to March ; and they ieldom produce lefs than twenty or thirtv for one, nay, fome a hundred for one, and the maiz four hundred for one ; and 'tis very feldom that diere is any fcarcity of grain, but it is very cheap molt commonly. As for the fruit of the gardens, it is ne- ver or rarely fold, but any body may, with- out hinderance, ftep into a garden or orchard, and eat what they will ; only the ftrawber- ries, which they call Frutilla, are fold ; for though I have feen them grow wild for miles together, yet, being cultivated, they are fold very dear : they are very different from thofe I have feen here in Rome, as well in the tafte, as in the fmell ; and as for their iize, they grow to be as big as pears, moft commonly red, but in the territory of the Conception there are of them white and yellow. About this time alfo the herbs that fatten the cattle grow ripe ; and then they begin to kill them with great profit, it being die chiefeft riches of the country, by reafon of the tallow and hides which are fent for Peru. They kill thoufands of cows, fheep, goats; and the flefh, being lb cheap that it is not worth laving, they throw it away into the fea Chap. 3. Kingdom of CHILE. .■iutumn. Time of gn thering dives and grapes. Noble and generous , vines. fea or rivers, that it may not infect the air ; only they fait the tongues and loins of the cows, which they fend for Peru as prefents to their friends ; and they who are able, and underftand it, fend likewife fome dried falt-fifh for the king's forces, or keep it to feed their own (laves or fervants. Autumn begins about the middle of Fe- bruary ; fo lent proves the moft delicious time of the year ; for befides lobtters, oy- iters, crabs, and other forts of fhell-fiih and fea-fifh of all kinds, they fifh in the ponds and rivers for trouts, Vagres, Peje- reges, and other very choice river-fifh of Icveral kinds ; and at the fame time there is a great plenty of pulfe, and garden-pro- duct, as gourds, all forts of fruit, parti- cularly quinces, which are as big as one's head, and another kind called Lucumas, of which they make fo many dimes, that the mortification of Lfting is hardly perceived. In &£ end of Autumn diey begin to ga- ther the olives and the grapes; and this kits uie months of May and June. The wines are moft noble and generous, and fam'd by the authors who write of this country : there is fuch plenty of them, that the plenty is a grievance, there being no vent Ovalle. tor fuch quantities: it kills the Indians, be- yLr^r. caufe when they drink, 'tis without mea- s "*v^* =/ fure, till they fall down •, and it being very ftrong, it burns up their inward parts : the belt kind is the Mufcatel. I have feen fome that look like water ; but their ope- ration is very diiferen tin the ftomach, which they warm like brandy. There are white wines alfo very much white valued ; as thofe of the grapes called Uba w "»"« Torrontes, and Albilla : the red and deep- colour'd are made of the ordinary red grape, and the grape called Mollar. The bunches of grapes are fo large, that they caufe admi- ration ; particularly I remember one, which, becaufe of its monftrous bignefs, was by its owner (a gentleman) offer'd to our lady's fhrine : it was fo big as to fill a basket, and to feed the whole convent of friers for that meal, and they are pretty numerous. The branches of the vines are by confequence ve- ry big, and the trunk or body of them is in fome places as thick as a man's body, and no man can incompafs with extended arms the heads of them, when they are in full bloom. CHAP. IV. Of the natural Riches of the Kingdom of Chile; which are its Mines of Gold \ and other Metals ; as alfo of the indujirious Management of its other ProducJ. 1 v>o forts *~W^ H E riches of Chile are of two forts : *f riches. J^ £ rit) tho f e wn i c h nature has be- ftowed on it, without the help of human induftry; and, fecondly, thofe which have been produced and invented by the inha- bitants, to improve and enjoy its fertility. To the firft kind belong its mines of gold, filver, copper, tin, quick-filver, and lead, with which heaven has inriched it. Of the copper of Chile are made all the great guns for Peru and the neighbouring king- doms, in the garrilons of which there are always ftores, particularly on the coafts : all the bells of the churches, and utenfils for families, are of this metal ; fo that fince the working of thefe mines, no copper has come from Spain ; for the Indies are furfi- ciently fupplied by them with all they can want. Little lead, There is little lead work'd, becaufe and le(s there is little ufe of it •, quick-filver lefs, be- l",' ck ~ caufe the mines are but newly difcovered ; and as they were going to work them, the obltacle to thofe of Guancabilica in Peru was removed, and fo there was no need of working thofe of Chile. Thofe of filver likewife lie unwrought, becaufe the gol- den mines are of lefs charge, and fo every body has turned their induftry to- wards them: they are ib many, and fo rich, that from the confines of Peru to the extreameft parts of this kingdom, as far as the Itreights of Magellan, there is no part of the country but they difcover them j which made father Gregory of Leon, in his map of Chile, fay, That this coun- try ought rather to have been called a plate of gold, than to go about to reckon up its golden mines, which are innumerable. All the authors who have writ of this country, do mightily enlarge upon its riches ; and the fame is done by all thofe who have navigated the {freights of Ma- gellan : Antonio de Herrera, in his general hiftory of the Indies, fays, That in all the IVefi-Indies, no gold is fo fine as that of Valdivia in Chile, except the famous mine of Carabaya ; and that when thofe mines were firft work'd, (which was before thofe Indians who are now at peace with us were at war,) an Indian among them did ufe to get from them every day 20 or ^opefo's of gold, which comes to near 500 reals of plate, and was a wonderful gab. And the already-cited John and Theodore Great de Brye fay, That when the Nodales pa/Ted t l ™y »f the ftreights H>f St. Vincent, otherwise*" ' C 2 called \ 8 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovalle. called ftreights of Le Maire, there cime 1646. f ome Indians from the country called La **V*S cfierra del Fuego, who exchanged with the Spaniards a piece of gold of a foot and a half long, and as broad, for fcifTars, knives, needles, and other things of little value -, for they do not value it as we do. Other authors fay, that mod of the gold that was laid up in the hues treafure, was brought to him from Chile, though having never fubjected the Araucanos, he could not have that quantity which this rich country would elfe have afforded. But what need I weary myfelf in cita- tions of people abroad, when thoie who live in the country of Chile, and fee it eve- ry day, are the belt teftimony of the great riches that the Spaniards have drawn from thefe mines ; which was lb great, that I have heard the old men fay, That in their feafts and entertainments they us'd to put gold-duft in their falt-fellers, inftead of fait •, and that when they fwept the houfe, the fervants would often find grains of gold in the fweepings, which they would wafh out, for the Indians being the perfons that brought it to their lords, they would often let fome fall. Gold mere I have faid before, that it was much plenty than m ore eafy to get gold than filver out of (/her. x ^ e mines, becaufe this laft cofts much pains ; firft, to dig it from the hard rock, then to beat it in the mills to powder, which mills are chargeable, as is alfo the quick-filver, neceflary to be us'd to make the filver unite, and all the reft of the ope- rations requifite to refine it ; but the ad- vantage of getting gold has no other trou- ble in it, than to carry the earth in which it is found to the water, and there wafh it in mills on purpofe, with a ftream which carries off the earth, and the gold, as being heavieft, goes to the bottom. 'Tis true, that fometimes they follow the gold vein through rocks and hard places, where it grows thinner and thinner, till at laft the profit that arifes is very fmall ; yet they perfift to follow it, in hopes it will grow larger, and end at laft in that which they call Bolfa, which is, when coming to a fofter and eafier part of the rock, the vein enlarges fo, that one of thefe hits is enough to enrich a family for all their lives. There is now lefs gold found than formerly, by reafon of the war the Spaniards have had with the nation of Araucanos ; but ftill fome is found, particularly in Co- quimbo, where, in the winter, when it rains much, is the great harveft of gold ; for by the rain the mountains are wafh'd away, and the gold is eafier to come at. There is likewife fome gold in the terri- tory of the Conception ; in which I was told, by a captain who enter'd into our feciety, That there wa' - , not above half a leigue from the town, a pond, or {land- ing-water, which is not deeper than half the heighth of a man ; and that when the Indians have nothing to fpend, they fend their wives to this pond ; and they going in, feel out with their toes the grains of gold ; and as foon as they have found them, they ftoop and take them up. They do this till they have got to the value of two or three pefo's of gold ; and then a pe; h they feek no longer, but go home, and about the do not return for any more as long as that va! " e °f lafts; for they are not a covetous people, JjjjL, " but are content to enjoy, without laying up. _ . I brought with me to Italy, one of thefe grains thus found, of a pretty reafonable bigneis ; and fending it at Seville to be touch'd, without either putting it in the fire, or ufing other proofs, it was allowed to be of twenty three carats, which is a very remarkable thing. Now the peace is made, and the warlike Indians quiet, the Spaniards may return to fearch for the gold of Valdivia, and other mines thereabouts, which will extreamly increafe the riches of the country. As for the product made by the inJuftry B , ee of the inhabitants, it confifts particularly M;; in the breed of their cattle of all kinds, fhief prt- as I have obferv'd above ; fending the tal- ,; ; low, hides, and dried flefh, for Lima ; where having firft retain'd the neceflary proportion for themfelves, which is about twenty thoufand quintals of tallow every year for that city, and hides accordingly, they diftribute the reft all over Peru : the hides, particularly, are carried up to Po- toji, and all that inland trad of mints, where moft of their cloathing comes from Chile; they are alfo carried to Panama, Carthagena, and the reft of that continent ; fome of this trade extends itfelf likewife to Tucuman and Buenos Aires, and from thence to Brajil. The fecond producl: is the cordage and cord^e, tackling, with which all the fhips of the *«<•«/«? South-Seas are furnilh'd from Chile ; as alfo/'"'•/ 7 •"/' /, , the match for fire-arms, with which all th£f or jfo? king's garrifons along the coaft are provi- arms. ded from thofe parts; for the hemp which makes the firft material of all thefe provi- fions, grows no where in the Weft-Indies but in Chile: there is alio packthread ex- ported, and other fmaller cordage. The third product: is mules, which are^aiM. fent to Potoji, tlixough the deiart of Ara- cama. The fourth producl: is the cocoa-nuts, cocta-nuti. which are the fruit of the palm-trees-, and do not, indeed, proceed from induftry, but grow wild in the mountains, without any cultivation, fo thick, that I have feen ral Chap. 4. Kingdom of CHILE. Almonds, feveral leagues of this tree. Almonds likewife, and the product of gardens, which do not grow in Peru, are carried thither with great profit, fo as to be able to fet up a young beginner. When I came to Lima, I obferved that the anni- feed which had been bought at Chile for two pieces of eight, was fold there for twenty; and the cummin-feed, bought at twenty, was fold for fourfcore; which makes merchants very willing to trade to thofe parts, as hoping to grow rich in a fmall Time ; and this increafes the riches of Chile, by drawing every day thither men with good flocks. The gains made this way are fo confiderable, that a man who has about forty thoufand crowns to employ in land, flocks, and flaves, to take care of them, may every year have a re- venue of ten or twelve thoufand crowns, which is a gain of twenty five per cent. very lawful, and without any trouble to one's confcience, or fubjection to the dangers of the feas : for thofe who will run the hazards of that element gain much more ; for the merchants, by many commodities, get a hundred, and two merchants, hundred, nay, three hundred per cent, in a navigation of about three weeks, which is the time ufually employed from Chile to Lima, without any fear of pirates, all thofe feas being entirely the king of Spain 5, and fo free from thofe robbers. Befides, 'tis very feldom that any ftorms are felt in that voyage, or, at leaft, not any that endanger the lofs of the fhips. The greateft danger proceeds from the covetouf- nefs of the owners and merchants, who trufling to the peaceablenefs of thofe feas, and that they fail all the way from Chile to Lima before the wind, they load up to the mid-maft. 'Tis not exaggeration ; becaufe I have feen them go out of the port with provifions for the voyage, and other necef- faries, as high as the ropes that hold the mafts ; and though the king's officers are prefent to hinder the fhips from being over- loaded, yet generally they are fo deep in the water, that they are but jufl above it ; and with all thefe, there are many goods left behind in the magazines of the port ; for the land is fo productive of every thing Great en- courage- ment to 5' that the only misfortune of it, is to want a Ovalle. vent for its product, which is enough to ^£^. fupply another Lima, or another Potoji, V «^*V > ^ if there were one. 'Tis upon this foundation, that 'tis af- firmed generally, that no country in all America has a more folid eflablifhment than Chile ; for in proportion to the in- creafe of inhabitants in Peru, Chile mud increafe too in riches, fince it is able to fupply any great confumption, and yet have enough of its own in all the kinds of corn, wine, flefh, oil, fait, fruits, pulfe, wool, flax, hides, tallow, chamois, leather 1 , ropes, wood, and timber, me- dicinal remedies, pitch, fifh of all kinds, metals of all forts, and amber. There wants filk ; and 'tis to be wifhed that it may never get thither, but for orna- ment to the altars ; for it is already the beggering of the country, by reafon of the great expence in rich cloaths ; parti- cularly by the women, who are not out- done in this, even by the braveft ladies of Madrid, or other parts ; but yet the land is fo proper for filk-worms, that if any one carries the feed of them there, I am perfuaded it will take with great abun- dance, the mulberry-trees being there al- ready as full grown, and in as great beauty as in Spain. The wax likewife comes from Europe? though there are bees who make both honey and wax. Pepper, and other eaft- india fpices, come from abroad, though there is a kind of fpice which fupplies the want of them very well ; and the authors above cited fay, That in the ftreights of Magellan, there is good cinnamon ; and that on thofe coafts there grow trees of a moll fragrant fmell in their bark, and which have a tafle like pepper, but of a more quick favour, as it fhall be made out when we treat of that ftreight. In the whole kingdom, the herbage and Herbage, the fifhing are in common -, as alfo the^""^> hunting ; and the woods for fewel and tim- J^jw"« > ber ; and the fame is practifed as to the falt/w, and mines. There is no impofition on trade f*h mines, through all the kingdom, every one being ^ ™ cm ~ free to tranfport what goods he pleafes, ei- ther within or without the kingdom. CHAP. V. Of the Famous Cordillera of Chile. Defcription f I 1 H E Cordillera, or high mountains of the Cot- _|_ of Chile, are a prodigy of nature, and diUera. without parallel in the world : 'Tis a chain of high mountains, which run from north to fouth from the province of Quito, and the new kingdom of Granada, to Chile, Vol. III. above a thoufand Caftillan leagues, accord- ing toAntonio de Herrera, in his third tome, Decade 5. to which adding the length of the kingdom of Chile to the ftreights of Magellan, it will make in all little lefs than 1 500 leagues. The remotefl part of Chile D is 10 OVALLE 1646. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book L Vefcription ef feveral animals. Hogs. Monkeys Coats. is not above twenty or thirty leagues from the fea. Thefe mountains are forty leagues broad ; with many precipices, and interme- diate valleys, which are habitable till one comes to the tropicks ; but not beyond them, becaufe of the perpetual fnows with which they are always covered. Antonio de Herrera, already cited, puts two chains of mountains-, one much lower, covered with woods and handfome groves, becaufe the air is more temperate near it ; the other much higher, which by reafon of the intenfe cold, has not fo much as a bum on it, the mountains being fo bare, that there is neither plant nor grafs on them : but he fays, that on both thefe forts of mountains there are feveral animals, which becaufe of the fingularity of their kinds, I fhall here defcribe fome of them. One of the moft remarkable, is a fpecies of hogs, that have their navel in their back, upon the back-bone : they go in herds, and each herd has its leader, who is known from them all •, becaufe when they march, none dares go before him, all the reft fol- low in great order. No hunter dares fall on thefe herds till he has killed this captain, or leader ; for as long as they fee him, they will keep together, and lhew fo much cou- rage in their own defence, that they appear invincible •, but as foon as they fee him killed, they are broke, and run for it, gi- ving up the day, till they chufe another cap- tain. Their way of eating is alfo admirable : they divide themfelves into two bodies ; one half of them goes to certain trees which are in a country called Los Quixos, in the Pro- vince of Quito, and are like the cinnamon- trees : thefe they fhake to bring down the flowers, which the other half feeds on ; and when they have eat enough, they go and relieve the other half of the flock, and make the flowers fall for them ; and fo return the fervice to their companions, that they have received from them. There are many forts of monkeys, who differ mightily in their fhapes, colour, and bignefs, and other Properties : fome are merry ; fome melancholy and fad ; thefe whiffle, the others chatter ; fome are nim- ble, others lazy ; fome cowards, others ftout and courageous ; but yet when one threatens them, they get away as fdH as they can. Their food is fruit and birds-eggs, and any game they can catch in the moun- tains : they are very much afraid of water; and if they happen to wet or dirty them- iclves, they grow dejedled and fad. There are alfo great variety of parrots. The wild goats are numerous : they are called Vicunnas, and have fo fine hair, that it feems as foft as filk to the touch : this is ufed to make the fine hats fo much valued in Europe. There are likewile a fort of fheep of that country, they call Quauacos, which are like camels, but a good deal lefs, of whofe wool they make waiffcoats, which are woven in Peru, and are more valued than if they were of filk, for their foft- nefs, and the finenefs of their colours. The fame author fays, moreover, TlwtTwofamcus through this chain of mountains there went %* w/, J ,i ' two highways, in which the Ingas fhewed their great power •, one of them goes by the mountain all paved for nine hundred leagues, from Pojlo to Chile : it was five and twenty foot broad, and at every four leagues were noble buildings •, and to this day there are the places called Tatnbos, which anfwer our inns, where every thing neceflary is to be found by travellers ; and that which was moft admirable, at each half-league there were couriers and pofts, who were defigned for the conveniency of pafiengers, that they might fend their letters and advices where they were requifite. The other way, which was alfo of twenty-five foot broad, went by the plain at the foot of the mountains, with the fame proportion and beauty of inns and palaces at every four leagues, which were enclofed with high walls •, as alfo ftreams and rivolets running through this way, brought thither by art, for the refrefliment and recreation of travellers. This is what Antonio de Herrera, and other authors, who treat of the Indies, do tell us about this famous Cordillera : now I fhall relate what I myfelf have feen, and do know about it. And firft, I muft fuppofe, that though thefe two highways run feparate and diftincl; through all Peru and Quito, yet they muft grow nearer each other as they rife higher in the mountain ; for when they come to Chile, they are no longer two, but one. This is clearly found, by experience, in thofe who crofs the Cordillera, to go from Chile to Cuyo, as I have done feveral times, that I have palTed this mountain, and never could fee this divifion, but always continual and perpetual mountains, which ferve for walls and fortifications on each fide to one which rifes in the middle infinitely higher than the reft, and is that which moft properly is called the Cordillera. I am alfo perfwa- ded, that the two ways above mentioned came but to the boundaries of Chile, and ended in thofe of Peru. I have, indeed, in pafling the Cordillera, met with great old walls of ftone on the top of it, which they call the Ingas ; which, they fay, were en- campments, (though not his, for he never came to Chile,) but of his generals and armies fent to conquer the country ; and 'tis not im- poflible but the faid two ways might be continued on to thefe buildings ; but it was not practicable, that it could be with that C perfec- Chap. 5. Kingdom of CHILE. it perfection, as in that part of the mountain contained within the tropicks ; where be- caufe the hills are more tradable, fuch ways might be made as they defcribe •, but not in the mountains of Chile, which are one upon another fo thick, that it is with great difficul- ty that a fingle mule can go in the paths of it : and the Cordillera grows rougher and rougher; the more it draws nearer the pole, fo that it appears to be above the compafs of human power to open a way through it, ib curious and finely contrived as it is re- prefented. It was not necefTary that the Inga fhould ufe fo much art and induftry, to make admirable that which is already fo much fo, as this mountain is in its whole courfe through the kingdom of Chile, as it fhall be fhewed when we difcourfe in particular of its feveral parts and properties. For, firft, fuppofing what we have faid of its running fifteen hundred leagues in length, and forty in diameter, its wonderful heighth makes it aftonifhing : the afcent is fo prodigious, that we imploy three or four days in arriv- ing to the top of it, and as many more in the defcent, that is, fpeaking properly, and only of the mountain, for otherwife it may be affirmed, that one begins to mount even from the fea-fide, becaufe all the way, which is about forty leagues, is nothing but an extended fhelving coaft ; for which reafon the rivers run with fuch force, that their {breams are like mill-ftreams, efpe- cially near their heads. Sudden • "When we come to afcend the higheft change of ^ \ nt f tn£ mountain, we feel an air fo piercing and fubtile, that 'tis with much difficulty we can breath, which obliges us to fetch our breath quick and flrong, and to open our mouths wider than ordinary, applying to them likewife our hankerchiefs to condenfe our breath, and break the ex- tream coldnefs of the air, and fo make it more proportionable to the temperament, which the heart requires, not to be fuffbca- ted : This I have experienced every time that I have pafted this mighty mountain. Don Antonio de Herrera fays,That thofe who pafs it in Peru, fuffer great Teachings and vomitings ; becaufe no one thing pro- duces fo great an alteration at once, as a fudden change of air ; and that of the moun- tain being fo unproportioned to common refpiration, produces in thofe who pafs over it thofe admirable and painful effects. He fays moreover, that thofe who have en- deavoured to dive into the caufes of them, do find, That as that mountain is one of the higheft in the world, the air of it isfo extream fubtile and fine, that it difcompofes the temperament of the animal, as has been faid. 'Tis true, that in that part of the Cordil- lera in Peru, which they call Pariacaca, there may be a concurrence of other caufes and difpofition of the climate, to which OvAlle. may be attributed fome of thefe effects ; for l6 4 6 - if they were to be attributed only to the V ^'Y"^' heighth of the mountain, we that pafs it in Chile ought to find thofe inconveniencies as much, or more, becaufe the mountain is higheft without comparifon ; and yet I ne- ver endured thofe Teachings or vomitings, nor have feen any of thofe motions in others, but only the difficulty of breathing, which I have mentioned. Others experience other effects, which lExhilatkns have often heard them relate ; for the ex- and other halations, and other meteors, (which from the earth feem fo high in the air, that fome- times we take them for ftars,) are there un- der the feet of the mules, frighting them, and buzzing about their Ears. We go through the mountains treading, as it were, upon clouds ; fometimes we fee the earth without any oppofition to our fight, and when we look up, we cannot fee the hea- vens for clouds ; but when we are afcend- ed to the higheft of the mountain, we can no longer fee the earth for the clouds below, but the heavens are clear and bright, and the fun bright and fhining out, without any impediment to hinder us from feeing its light and beauty. The Iris, or Rainbow, which upon the Rainhw. earth we fee croffing the heavens, we fee it from this heighth extended under our feet ; whereas thofe on the lower parts fee it over their heads : nor is it a lefs wonder, that while we travel over thofe hills which are dry and free from wet, we may fee, as I have done often, the clouds difcharge them- felves, and overflow the earth with great force ; and at the fame time that I was contemplating, at a diftance, tempefts and ftorms falling in the valleys and deep places, as I lifted up my eyes to heaven, I could not but admire the ferenity over my head, there being not fo much as a cloud to be feen, to trouble or difcompofe that beautiful profpect. The fecond thing which makes this Show. mountain admirable, is the prodigious fnow which falls upon it in winter, which is fo great, that though thefe mountains are fo high and broad, there is no part of them uncovered with fnow, being in many places feveral pikes deep. I am not informed how it is in the higheft part of all, which is moft properly called the Cordillera, becaufe this being fo very high, that it is thought to furpafs the middle region of the air, its point alone may perhaps be uncovered ; at leaft, when I paired it, which has been fome- times in the beginning of winter, I have not feen a crum of fnow ; when a little below, both at the coming up and going down, it was fo thick, as our mules funk in without being able to go forward. But 12 OVALLE 1646. W^ The Cordil- lera while from top to bottom af- ter a glut of ruin. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book fc But that whicfe I have obferved, is,That after a glut of rain, which has lafted two or three days, and the mountain appears clear, (for all the time it rains 'tis covered with clouds,) it feems white from top to bottom, and is a moft beautiful fight ; for the air is fo ferene in thofe parts, that when a ftorm is over, the heavens are fo bright, even in the midft of winter, that there is not a cloud to be feen in them for many days •, then the fun mining upon that pro- digious quantity of fnpw, and thoft; coafts and white fhelvings all covered with ex- tended woods, produces a profpecl: which, even we that are born there, and fee it eve- ry year, cannot forbear admiring, and draws from us praifes to the great creator for the wonderful beauty of his works. CHAP. VI. Of the Vulcanos, and the Mines of Gold and Silver of the Cordillera. VuUnnos: HPHERE are in this Cordillera, or 1 chain of mountains, fixteen Vulcanos which at feveral times have broke out, and caufed effects no lefs admirable than terrible and aftonifhing to all the country : amongft the reft, that which happened in the year 1640. is worthy to be remembered. It broke out in the enemy's country, in the territory of the Cacique Aliante, burning with fo much force, that the mountain clea- ving in two, fent forth pieces of rock all on fire, with fo horrible a noife, that it was heard many leagues off, juft like the * going off" of cannon. In all that territory the women mifcarried for fear, as fhall be related more particularly in its proper place, in the account I fhall give of the fubjection of all that country to our catholick king, being moved thereunto by this and other prodigies. The firft of thefe Vulcanos is called the Vulcano of Copiapo, and is in about twenty fix degrees altitude of the pole, about the confines of Chile and Peru ; in thirty de- grees is that of Coquimh ; in thirty one and and a half that of La Ligua ; in thirty five that of Peter oa ; in thirty fix and a half that of Chilau ; in thirty feven and a quar- ter that of Antoco : this is followed by that of Notuco in thirty eight and a half ; that of Villarica is in thirty nine and three quar- ters ; near this is another, whofe name I know not, in forty and a quarter ; and in forty one is that of for no ; and near that, in lefs than a quarter of a degree, that of Guanahuca ; and in a little more than for- ty two degrees that of Quehucabi : and laft of all are two more ; one without a name, in forty four ; and that of St. Cle?nent, which is in forty-five and a half. Thefe are the known Volcanos of Chile : we have no knowledge of others, which may be as far as the fierra del Fuego, becaufe till this time our difcoveries have not gone fo far ; but there is no doubt but there are fome, as they are to be found before one comes to Chile, in the kingdoms of Peru and Quito. Diego Ordonnes de Salvos, in the third book and eighteenth chapter of his Voyage through the whole World, mentions, among the reft, one that is near the fall of the river, in the valley of Cola ; and fays, it is on a mountain in the form of a fugar- loaf, like that of La Plata in Potofi ; and that in winter it throws out fo much fmoak and afhes, that it burns up all the grafs within two leagues round about it. He likewife mentions another in the en- trance of the province of Los Quixos, near the town of Mafpa ; and fpeaks of another, which broke out near Quito, in a mountain called die Pinta : and he affirms, that the afhes fly two leagues and a half from the mountain ; and he has feen them lie on the houfes above four foot deep in the neareft places to the mountain. Laftly, he tells of that of Ariquipa, which buried the vineyards, and had almoft over- whelm'd the city. To this day there are feen the effects of that defolation, which ruined many families, by deftroying their houfes and poffeffions. At the fame time he obferves, that the earthquakes which be- fore were frequent, ceafed from that time ; and this perhaps may be the reafon why the earthquakes in Chile have always been confi- derably lefs than thofe of Peru, becaufe Chile has more breathing holes for the va- pours to exhale by. There is no room for doubting of the im- menfe riches which thefe mountains enclofe in their bowels ; for 'tis a certain argument, and proof of it, to fee only the mineral riches of Chile, which are, as it were, in- dixes of what may be contained in thofe rocks, as the rivers which fertilize the coun- try are a proof of the unexhaufted fountains contained in the rocks and precipices. I think there may be two caufes affigned, The coa* why thefe riches do not manifeft themfelves "*''!?£ °f nor appear more : the firft is, that general 'f r e mall ftate reafon, and inviolable maxim among foreign n» the fndians, to conceal and not difcover "<""•. '■' * them to any other nation. This they obferve max:m °r r J. , • . .' Hate among fo punctually, that it is among them a ca-,/, e Indians. pital crime, punifhable with death, to break filence in this matter, which they make facred and indifpenfible ; and if any one Chap. 6. Kingdom of CHILE. '3 one among them, either out of intereft, negligence, or any other motive of conve- niency, difcovers any thing of this kind, his death is infallible, and no power on earth can fave him. a remark- I remember on this fubject, that fome able rela- gentlemen having, by prefents, infinuations, tim of a anc j flatteries, come to the knowledge of journey kb- r trea f ure by the means of an Indian, fearch of and prevailed with him at laft to guide fome rich them to fome very rich mines in a remote mines. mou ntain, he begg'd earneftly of them to be fecret, or otherwife he was a dead man, let them take never fo much care of him. They promifed him accordingly, and fo they fet out, and he brought them through horrid rocks and precipices, where it look'd as if never man had fet his foot, nor fcarce any living animal. Every day they met with certain marks, which the Indian had told them of beforehand : Firft, after fo many days they difcovered a red mountain ; and then at certain diftance from that a black one on the left-hand •, then a val- ley, which began from a monftrous high mountain or rock ; then at fo many leagues a mountain of chalk. All which figns the guide went fhewing them, verifying there- by the relation he had given them before- hand, and comforting them up to endure the hardfhip, by the hopes of fulfilling at laft their expectation, and feeing their la- bour rewarded. Their provifions failed them, and they were forced to come back to provide more, to purfue their enterprize. The Indian was always in fear of being difcovered, knowing that he run in that no lefs a ha- zard than that of his life. They returned then to a town ; and to fecure their Indian from his fright of being difcovered, they locked him up in a room very fafe ; but the night before they were to let out again, without ever being able to difcover how it was done, (for there was no figns by the door of any body's going in that way,) as they went to call the Indian in the morning, they found him ftrangled ; by which means, being deprived of their intent, and having loft the hopes of fatisfying their de- fire, they returned to their own homes, though with a refolution to try again, be- ing encouraged by fo much as they had already difcovered. The other reafon to be afiign'd for not feeking after thefe mines, is the great plenty of every thing neceftary for life ; fo that hunger, which is the prompter of co- vetous defires, being wanting, there are few that care to run a hazard, and lofe their conveniencies at home, to go through impracticable defarts upon fearch after hid- den treafure ; particularly finding already fo much in the valleys bottoms, rivers, Vol. III. and fountains ; nay, even thefe mines in the Ovaixe. low countries are not wrought, becaufe the ■irj!^, profit of odier products is eafier. 'Tis probable that people will increafe ; for every day there is a new addition •, and there then being more confumers, the pro- duct of the land will be dearer ; and pro- vifions not being fo cheap as now, men will be more ingenious and induftrious to feek for fuftenance under ground, by the mines and treafures hid there by provi- dence. Thefe few years laft paft have given be- ginning to a difcovery of fome golden mines, and filver ones, on each fide of the Cordillera : for as I pafTed over it once, I remember that the fight difcovers a black mountain at a diftance, whofe top ftiines as if it were covered with filver ; and it is a common tradition that it contains it, and great treafures befides, in its bowels ; but they are at prefent ufelefs, for the reafons alledged ; and becaufe one half of the year the mountain is covered with fnow, and fo not only uninhabitable, but impenetrable. They write me word, that on the fide Di/eovery of the province of Cuyo, they have begun "IJ'^h to difcover other very rich mines, which mm es. being below the rougheft part of the moun- tain, may be wrought all the year round, and with great conveniency of the miners, and other necefTary workmen, becaufe carts may come to the very fituation of the mine, which is of confideration for the price ol the metal. They fpeak of it with great expectation, by reafon of the good proofs they have already had in the allaying of it in fmall quantities. Befides the mines of gold, and filver, and brafs, and lead, which are work'd in Coquimbo, and thofe of quick-filver, which have been difcovered within thefe few years in Lamache, which is a valley in Chile, I do not know of any others of any other fort in this Cordillera. I am verily per- fuaded there are fome of chryftal ; for, confidering the nature of the place, I cannot think there is one any where more proper. Being in the valley of Rancagua, I heard one of our nation tell an Indian, that up- wards in the mountain he had found a great deal of chryftal : he hearing diis, out of curiofity went up to fee what it was ; and I heard him tell, that after having gone over feveral rocks, he faw on the top of a precipice a great opening, and that draw- ing near to it, he faw a profound cave, and in the bottom of it a great plank or table of chryftal, which appeared to him of the fineft fort ; but wanting help and inftrumcnts to get it out, he returned with only this information, and fome little pieces of a chryftal ftone which he found on the top. E C II A P. OvALLE. 1646. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. CHAP. VII. Of the Fountains, Rivers , and Brooks of the Cordillera. Vajl num- HP H AT which contributes not a little teroffourf J^ to the admiration we have for this tains, g reat c j ia j n f mountains, is the vaft num- irook!,' «»rfber of fountains, fprings, brooks, and ri- rhtrs. vers, which we meet with ever and anon, when we go over it : they are fo nume- rous, that 'tis a thing rather to be feen than related, though the travellers reap but little benefit by the curious obfervation of them ; for by them the ways are the moft broken and troublefome that 'tis pof- fible to imagine : they laft about eight days journey. One muft fuppofe too, that the fummer is pretty well enter'd ; for in winter they are abfolutely impafiable, and in the fpring not without evident danger of one's life ; becaufe one travels all the way on a path fo narrow, that there is but juft room for a mule's feet. On one fide are prodigious precipices, which have at the bottom a furious and profound river ; and on the other hand huge rocks, and fome part of them Handing out fo, that if the mule's loading, (as it often happens, and I have feen it,) touches part of them, it throws down the mule headlong, and fends her rowling down till fhe comes to the river at the bottom, which carries her away to the fea without flopping, except it happen upon fome turning of the river to get it on fhoar ; where, though the la- ding may be faved, yet not the mule's life, becaufe it is impofiible almoft to get her up again. , In many places one is forced to lite; Many pla- . ' r c • c c l cts fcarcth and even a man on root is not very fafe, be- p affable, t caufe fome of the coafts are fo ftreight and flippery, that it frights one to walk on them. The afcents and defcents of the hills are fo fteep, that when from below one looks at thofe who are above, they look like figures ; and for my part I thought it a te- merity, if not an impofiibility, to venture to get up to them. The brooks and rivers which crofs the ways every ftep are fo violent, that there is no head fo ftrong, but it turns to look on their current ; which is fo fwift, that if it comes up to the mule's faddle, there is no pafiing without evident danger of one's life •, for thefe ftreams coming from on high, have the ftrength of a mill-dream, carrying along with them loofe (tones, which overturn a loaded mule as it were a chicken ; fo that 'tis necefiary fometimes to ftay two or three days till the fun does not fhine ; for then thefe brooks are lower, becaufe there is lefs fnow melted : and for this rea- fon 'tis always bed to pafs early in the Rapid rt vers. morning, they having had all the night to run lower. It was necefiary for an allay of the dan- ihe great eers and irkfomenefs of thefe ways, that v *""y °f o t j * waters very God fhould temper the rigour of the fuf- diverting. ferings, by the variety and diverfion which fo many waters give in their rife and courfe : fome are to be feen breaking out from almoft an imperceptible heighth, and meeting with no intermediate obje<5b, the whole mafs of water, which is ufually very great, difiblves itfelf by the way into fo many drops, which make a lovely profpedr, like fo much pearl falling ; and being mingled by the force of the air, which drives them acrofs one upon the other, it feems a chain hanging from its firft ifiue to the earth ; where, taking another fhape, it becomes a run- ning brook, and unites with the current of the chief river which runs in the middle. I faw others, which, before they got to the earth, divided into two branches, form- ing like a thick fhower in the midft of the way, or atomes in the fun-beams ; but 'tis impofiible to paint all the variety of ob- jects produced by thefe feveral motions and compofitions of ftreams and fountains. I to) ojes cannot leave them without mentioning one"?"*' or called the Eyes of Water, which is ytxy^" ngs ' remarkable ; 'tis in the laft mefa but one, at the foot of the mountain. I called it mefa, becaufe providence has, for the re- lief of travellers, difpofed, at fome leagues diftance, little valleys and agreeable plains, . which eafe the travellers in this moft te- dious and long afcent. This valley is environed with a wall of moft prodigious high rocks ; it may be a mile or thereabouts in its diameter, and is all the year round full of greens, odorife- rous plants and flowers, which make it a pidture of paradife : in the midft of ic fprings up this fountain, or fountains, be- caufe the fprings of water are many that rife from the ground all about, leaping with great force into the air, which in a little fpace all unite, and make two great bodies, each of them full of water, as clear as chryftal. Thefe two heads begin a kind of combat a little below, and mingling in their courfe with one another, as if fome ingenious artift had ordered it, make a great many turnings and windings, fome- times far from one another, and fometimes united through the whole valley, till at the end of it, joining together, they fall into one canal, which empties itfelf into the principal river, compoied by many of thefe rivulets. One it Chap. y. Kingdom of CHILE. *§ ihe waters One property of all thefe chryftal ftreams, txtrtum j s extream coolnefs, which they never lofe, no, not when the fun lhines out moft in the heat of the day ; it is fuch, that no body can drink half a cup full of it with- out refting, or taking breath ; and though all thefe fprings have this quality, yet none in fo intenfe a degree as this fountain of Los ops de aqua ; of which, though the weather be never fo hot, 'tis not poiTible to drink above two or three fups ; and one can hardly endure to hold the water in one's hand above a minute. Behind one of thofe high mountains which is to the eaft of this fountain, there is a great lake or pond, fo deep and clear, that it appears as if it were of azure ; and there is a tradition, that the laft of the In- gas, kings of Peru, caufed vaft quantities of treafure to be thrown into it, when he iaw that he could not redeem himfelf, nor fave his life by them ; though it feems hard to believe they fhould go fo far to do a thing they might have executed much near- er home. The waters of this lake have no iffue, being environed on all fides with very high rocks, and therefore 'tis thought that it comes under ground to thofe fountains called the Ojos de aqua, and empties itfelf by them. I cannot pafs over in filence another foun- tain which is at the foot of the Cordillera, on the other fide towards Cuyo. There is Rio de a river called the Rio de Mendofa, which Mendof*. comes down from the eaft, not inferior to that of Aconcaqua in Chile, which runs to the weft into the fouth fea. Into thefe two rivers are emptied moft of the little ftreams of the mountain ; that of Mendofa meet- ing rn its way with a chalky mountain, bores it quite through, and leaves a bridge broad enough for three or four carts to pafs a-breaft. Under this bridge is a great ta- ble of rock, over which run five different ftreams of water, proceeding from fo many fountains •, which water is extream hot, and very good for many diftempers. The ftones over which it runs are of a green, like emerald. The vault of this bridge furpaffes in beauty aH that human art can produce •, for there hang down from it fe- veral ificles, in fliapes of flowers, and pendants of a ftone like fait ; for the hu- midity which penetrates from above, makes it congeal like points of diamonds, and other figures, which adorn this vault jOvalle. through which there falls perpetually a quan- v j£^T. tity of great drops, as big as peafe fome, and others as big as yolks of eggs ; which falling upon the ftone table I have men- tioned, are turned into ftones of feveral fhapes and colours, of no fmall value. There is another bridge on the other J*' ln &' s fide, call'd the Inga's bridge, either becaufe n s '' he caus'd it to be built, or becaufe (as is more probable) his generals were the firft difcoverers of it, and pafs'd over it ; for it is not pofilble that any human art could make fo bold an attempt as has been brought to pafs by the author of nature in this place. This bridge is form'd by a moft prodigious high rock, which is clo- ven in two, as if it had been fa wed down, only cover 'd on top : it is hollow to the very river, which is large and rapid, and yet the noife of it is no more heard on the top, than if it were a little brook ; which is a ftrong argument of the great diftance there is between the top and the bottom of the mountain ; for the opening not be- ing above eight foot over, it being eafy to leap from one fide to the other, it would be thought, that a great river be- ing fo ftreightened as to go through it, fhould make a very great noife in paffing fuch a ftreight place with fo much force; and if the noife does not reach the ear, 'tis becaufe of the great diftance. I my- felf have gone to the fide of this bridge, and look'd down, (though with great hor- ror, for it ftrikes a fhivering into one, to contemplate fuch a depth, than which I have not feen a more terrible one ;) I not only did not hear any noife, but that great river appear'd a little brook, hardly to be difcern'd. Thefe are the entertainments for the eye in paffing this part of the Cordillera : as for the many others which may be met with in fo vaft an extent, who can relate them? I believe there are thofe who know much more than what I have here defcrib'd,which is only what I have feen ; but from fo lit- tle 'tis eafy to infer more ; for if only the rife of two rivers have afforded fuch mat- ter of admiration, what may not be pro- duced in the birth and courfe of fo many others, as we fhall defer ibe in the follow- ing chapter?' CHAP. VIII. Of the vaft Number of Rivers which take their Rife in this Mountain, and empty themfelves into the Sea. TH E great author of nature has founded the beft part of the beauty and fecundity of the fields of Chile in this J range of mountains call'd the Cordillera, in which, as in a bank that can never break, he has depofited its treafure and riches, by affuring 1 6 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovalle. afliiring the annual tribute of fo many 1646. brooks and ample rivers which are to fer- ^^y^^ tilize the earth j for neither can the coun- try maintain its fertility without fuch moifture, nor fuch a moifture maintain it felf all the year without fuch quantities of fnow, as are laid up in the deep hollows of it in the winter, to feed in the fummer the many rivers that are derived from it. Who can demonftrate the number of them at their rife ? But one may guefs at the prodigious quantity of fnow which fup- plies them ; for though it cannot be feen all in a mafs, becaufe its refervatories are impenetrable, yet its effects do manifeft it ; for befides the feeding of innumerable ri- vers which run to the eaft, and empty themfelves into the north fea, and fupply- ing prodigious lakes in the province of Cuyo, thofe which run to the weft, and enter the fouth-fea, (not reckoning what may be by the ftreights of Magellan, and the Tier r a del Fuego,) are above fifty, which may be well multiplied by four a- piece more which they receive, and fo make two hundred ; which arrive at the fea fo full and deep, that fome of them have water enough for the navigation of the gal- loons and fhips of great burden ; which is the more to be admir'd, becaufe their courfe is fo fhort, the moft extended of them not paffing thirty leagues in length. The salt The firft river of this kingdom, begin- River. ning from the confines of Peru about the 25th degree of latitude, is the river called the Salt River, which comes from the Cor- dillera, running through a deep valley : its waters are fo fait, that they cannot be drank ; and when fometimes horfes, deceived by its pure clear colours, happen to drink of them, they are turned into fait by the heat of the fun, fo that the bodies feem of pearl, they beginning to petrify by the tail. Copidpo. The next to this is the river of Copiapo, in 26 degrees-, it runs twenty leagues from eaft to weft, and makes a bay at its en- trance into the fea, "which ferves for a har- bour for fhips. In 2 8 degrees the river of Cuafio. Guafco does the fame, and forms a port. Coquimbo. After this comes the river of Coquimbo in 30 degrees, whofe port is a noble bay adorn'd on the fhore with frefh and beauti- ful myrtles, and other trees, which con- tinue within land as far as the town, and make a noble and pleafant grove, which out-does all the contrivances of art. There are fifh'd in this coaft tunny-fifh, albucores, and many forts of excellent fifh, as alfo oy- fters, and great variety of fhell-fifh. Imgoy and The next to the river of Coqiiimbo are Limari. thofe of Tongoy and Limari about 30 degrees and a half eaft : and then in 3 1 de- Chuntn P> rees tne r i yer of Chitapa empties itfelf into the fea. Upon that coaft there is found a fort of delicate fhell-fifh, which they call jacas. Between the one and thirtieth degre°, and the two and thirtieth, the rivers Longo-^o"S'>ti>ma, toma and La Liga enter the fea •, and about La , L '^*' thirty three degrees that of Aconcagua, ^^ which is the great river which comes down, as we have faid, by the way of the Cordil- lera. This is a very deep river -, and though it runs through the large valleys of Curimon, Aconcagua, Quilota, and Concon, which being cultivated with all kinds of products, particularly wheat, flax, hemp, &c. and by confequence well water'd, yet this river arrives at the fea as full and deep as if they had not drained it by the way to fertilize their fields. About thirty three and a half, follows the famous river Maypo, which I cannot Mypt. tell whether it be more famous for its good qualities, or for the danger and difficulty of paffing it, many having been drowned in it, and every day mifcarrying by it. It is of fo rapid a current, and fometimes fwells fo high, that no bridge can refill its fury, but it is carried away by it •, for which reafon, at this day it has no other but one of many cables join'd together, and lying a-crofs from one fide to the other. Its waters are ordinarily thick ; and it enters the fea with fo much force, that it makes its way in it diftinct for a good while ; its waters are perfectly known from thofe of the fea by a circle they make : they are befides very cold, and yet it quenches thirft but ill, for it is brackiih, which makes die flefh of the fheep which feed near it, to be excellent in taftc. There are fifh'd here alfo moft excellent fifh, particularly trouts,- efteem'd all over the country. There falls into this river, among others, that of St. Jago, otherwife called thest. Jxgo, river of Mapocbo which is divided into or -^-'?>'- feveral ftreams, to water the diflrict of ' that city ; and it does it fometimes more than we could wifh, when it overflows. Not far from the city, it hides itfelf under ground, leaving a bridge of two or t leagues over it, while it maintains a filent courfe underneath ; at the end of this fpace it comes out in bubbles among a grove ot cherry trees, with its waters as clear and purified as chryftal ; fo that though it feems to hide it felf, and die, it is only to fpring up again more beautiful and ftately, being of a ftronger current, be- fore it is again fpread and diffufed to fer- tilize the fields. At this place of its fe- cond birth, there ftands an ancient and il- luftrious convent of St. Francis, which, becaufe it is within fight of a vart for- reft of trees, is called St. Francis of Mountain, in which there have been, from time Chap. 7. Kingdom of CHILE. l 7 time to time, moft holy men of the firft founders in that province, and who im- ploy themfelves in the worfhip of God, and help of their neighbours, with great zeal and reputation of their order. Tonngui. The river of Poangue, which falls like- wife into Maypo, runs alfo many leagues under ground: this cannot rife with more advantages than at its firft fountain; for its waters are, at the very fource, fo clear, delicate, and fweet, that they cannot be mended ; it has not its original like all the reft from fnow water, but from minerals of gold, through whofe veins it makes its way, as if it had an aqueduct of that pre- cious metal : its courfe is border'd on each fide with moft beautiful trees, which con- tribute to make its waters wholefome : they are indeed of themfelves a remedy; for they help digeftion fo vifibly, that if any one has exceeded and eat more than his ftomach can well embrace, one draught of this water will relieve him, fo that he fhall be hungry again in a little time. Neither is it ufelefs under ground; for while it is there, it communicates it felf to the whole valley by fubterranean conduits : the effect of which is vifible ; for though in the ham- mer it does not rain a drop, and the valley has no other watering, yet it brings as lea- fonable a crop, and as relifhing fruit, as any other that has the help of rain and other irrigations ; neither have I feen any where larger or more delicious melons, nor more abounding and well grown maiz, than in this valley. De Colina There are two other rivers which fall Mi L X" into Ma yP°-> which are call'd Be Colina ri'e famous an d Lamp a ; which uniting together about lake of ten or twelve leagues from their firft rife, Cudaguel. m ake the famous lake of Cudaguel fo profound and deep, that great fhips might fwim in it : this lake is about two leagues long, all bordered with delicate willow trees, and other greens, which keep their frefhnefs and greennefs all the year round ; and, that nothing may be wanting to its agreeablenefs, it is full of excellent trouts and vagres, which fometimes are fo plen- tiful, that they are eafily catched ; and this ufes to be one of the greateft diver- fions of the citizens of the city of St. Ja- go. There are other lakes, as thofe of Aculco, which empty themfelves into this river of Maypo, on the contrary fide to that of the clear river : there are alfo bred in it, fmelts of above a foot long ; the very name in Spanijh declaring their excel- lency, it fignifying a royal fifh : fome years there are fuch plenty of them, that the whole city may keep Lent with them alone, without buying any other fifh from the fea ; which, though it is very good, yet it never attains to the delicacy of the Vol. Ill river fifh, which is fo fweet and healthy, Ovaixe. that it is ufed to be given to the fick and 1 H 6 - convalefcent. v^V» After Maypo, is the river of Rapel, notR ap eI, at all inferior to the other; it enters theCachapoal, fea about the 34th degree, and as many md . .T m " minutes; about four or five leagues before ^ mn lc ' the two famous rivers of Cachapoal and Tinguiritica join together, and are no lefs in debt to mankind for the many people, they have fwallowed, than that oi Maypo. Among others which increafe their rapid current, are the rivers Mallua and Cham- Maliua mi baronigo : on the banks of this the order ch ^ mba " of the Redemption has a convent, for the in- ron ' s °' ftruction and edification of all that coun- try. The Jefuites have alfo a novitiate, who have for neighbours a monaftery of St. Bominick. The lands thereabouts are extream fertile, have excellent paftures for the fattenning of cattle, and are much va- lued all over the country. In thirty four degrees and three quarters is the river Delora, which receives thofe of Teno, Delora, Peterroa, and Metaquito, whofe ftream is Teno, Pe- fo rapid, that many perifh in it. Thefe'" 1 ' 03 ' aml rivers water moft rich lands, and a deli- cious country for the breeding and feed- ing of all forts of cattle ; and indeed there is not a foot of ground unimployed in them. The great Maule appears at thirty five The Maule. degrees; and it makes the limits of the archbifhoprick and jurifdiction of the city of St. J ago: all that was inclofcd between this and Rapel, Cachapoal, and Tinguiri- tica, was called by the natural Indians Pro- p r omo- mocaes, that is, a place of dancing and de- caes. light, to exprefs the pleafantnefs of that country. They were not out in this cha- racter at all : I remember once, that tra- velling in this country, when I came to a farm of any Spaniard, he would entertain me with nothing but the praifes of it, and that with fo many particulars, that I could not imagine it could be out-done by any in the world ; but when I came to another farm, the mafter of it would relate to me fuch admirable properties of his, that the firft feemed but ordinary to me. Thus I found every one fo in love with the fpot he lived on, that I could not but admire the whole, and have a great idea of the excellency and temperament of this land, as well as of its provifions. Par- tridge are abounding, and all manner of game ; and as for fifh, there are fuch quantities of fmelts and trouts, that they take them when they will, being as fure almoft to catch them, as if they had them in ponds at home. I have heard them often fay, that when they were fat down to table, if any one longed for a frefh trout, they had no more to do, than to fend and F catch i8 Ovalie 1646. Cauquenes Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. City of the Concep- tion. Itata. Nuble. Bay of th( Concep- tion. Biobio. catch one, which they would have ready drefied before they rife from the table. The river Made receives the clear river, and that of Cauquenes ; and though it be as deep again as cither of them, yet it is lefs dan- gerous for paflengers, and fewer people are drowned in it ; becaufe near the fea, by the yard for building of ihips, it fpreads itfelf, and makes a large paflage, where the king has a ferry for the conveniency of paflengers. The Auftin friars have alfo a convent here, and take care of the Spaniards ; and their black and Indian fervants, who people all the banks of this river, and are numerous, living in feparate farms all along the coun- try : thefe they call Eftancias. Now we enter the jurifdiftion of the city of the Conception, where the governor re- fides ; and there is a garrifon of the militia. The bilhoprick of the city of Imperial be- gins alfo at this river, which has for next and immediate neighbour the peaceable and noble river of Itata, three times as large, and as deep as the Made, and enters the fea at about thirty fix degrees : its courfe is among rocks, and fo is lefs ufeful to the land, becaufe it cannot water it : They pais it upon rafts, and there are alfo fords in fome places. About the middle of its courfe, the furious torrent called Nuble joins it : this wafhes the walls of the city of St. Bartholomew of Chilian, an antient gar- rifon of the Spaniards, and a fingular proof of their bravery and fidelity. Immediately next to this river is the fpacious and agreeable bay of the Concep- tion, into which the flow and filent river of Andalien empties itfelf at thirty fix degrees and three quarters. There is another i'mall river which paffes through the middle of the city, having firft precipitated itfelf from a high rock, and affording matter to the induftry of the inhabitants, for all forts of water-works among pleafant groves of lau- rels, and myrtles, and other odoriferous plants which adorn its banks •, and as it falls from fo high, it invites the induftrious planters to contrive mills for the fuftenance of the city ; of which there are already a great many. Two leagues further from this bay, in the thirty feventh degree, the lb-much cele- brated Biobio enters the fea. It is the molt powerful river of all Chile : it has at its en- trance two or three miles in breadth, more or lefs, according as it fwells or fhrinks, which is a great deal, confidering its fhort courfe : but that is not the chief thing which makes it famous, and deferve fo much praife -, it is its wholfome waters ; for (be- sides the particular excellency they may ac- quire, by pafiing through veins of gold, which neverthelefs many other rivers of this country have too,) it has a fingular advan- tage, by a fmall river which falls into it ; which river, taking its rife and courfe among Sarxaparilli roots, communicatee to the other its virtue and good qualities, and makes it a cure for many infirmities. There is a tradition, That at the fource of this river there were molt rich mines, work'd before ever the Spaniards came into thefe parts. Upon this information, ~DonAlo>ijb de Sottomayor, prefident of the country, fent a band of foldiers to view them, as they did ; though as they came back, they were laid wait for by the Indians, our enemies, and had a fmart engagement with them, and had much ado to efcape with their lives. This Indian people do always as much as they can to hide from theEuropeans the trea- fures and riches of their country, as it has been faid already. This river is the bounds which divides the Spaniards and our Indian friends from the Indian enemies : in winter the river overflows fo, that all the fords are unpaf- fable ; and fo the foldiers may take fome re- pofe till the fpring, at which time they are to begin their inroads again. The enemy on his fide has no garrifon, nor place of ftrength ; for they truft to their mountains, to which they can retire at any time : but the Spaniards have many garrifons all along the river, with which they bridle and keep in awe the potent rage of their proud ene- my, who alone has given them more trou- ble than all the reft of America. Their chief forts, befides the cities of the Conception and Chilian, arc thofe of A- rauco and St. Philip, in which there are ge- nerally about fixteen hundred natural ' niards, befides the Indian allies, who numerous. The firft of thefe is upon the fea-fide, and the other nearer the Cordillera. There are others between on each fide of the river, and fome pretty far into the ene- mies country. I can name nine of thefe forts •, which are, that of St. Angol, of the Nativity, of St. Ann, of St. Rofendo, of Good Hope, of Talmacahuida, of St. Peter, of Col- cuta, and that of Levo. Thefe are all pro- vided with great guns, and a fufficient num- ber of foldiers ; and at fuch proportionable diftances from each other, that they can foon receive notice of what is neceftary to be known from the firft to the laft by the cannon-fhot, according as it may have been concerted beforehand. The company of Jefus has here two re- cidencies, one in Arauco, and the other in the fort of Good Hope ; from whence they alfo make their attempts, n?t againfl bodies, but to five the fouls of their enemies, engaging with hell itfelf, and obtaining OOC3 m " O over it daily and glorious victories, as ic fhall Chap. 9. Kingdom of CHILE. i 9 Colcura, Arauco, Lavapie, and Levo. Ralemo, or Coypo Imperial. Ladies River. fhall be told in its proper place ; for now we muft follow the defcription air ^ady be- gun of the rivers of Chile. After Biobio follow four others much in- ferior to it : they are the rivers of Colcu- ra, Arauco, Lavapie, and Levo, which empties itfelf near the thirty eighth degree ; and a little further, that of Ralemo, which, a little from its fource, is called Coypo, in near thirty nine degrees. The pleafant and peaceful river of the Imperial enters the fea, having firft. incorporated with its ftream, the river called the Ladies River, becaufe of the delicacy of its waters and quiet current. More above, nearer its fource, it receives the two rivers of Curarava and Eyow, Ovalle. which, before they meet to enter the river ^^' Imperial, form the much-celebrated lake ofo^^ Pur en, a moft unconquerable fortrefs of the. and Eyow Indians, who are more fecure in it, than the/"™ tbl Spaniards in any of theirs. £J* * ? ^ About half a degree beyond the river Cauren, which is the fame as the Imperial, the river Tolten pays its tribute to the fea, Token, and is deep enough for great mips. About eight leagues further the river ir^ueule does Qpeu!;. the fame ; which, though fmall, yet re- ceives barks in it, and is about nine leagues upon a north and fouth line from the fa- mous river of Valdivia. CHAP. IX. Of the famous Tort and River of Valdivia. T 1 H E river and port of Valdivia, never enough commended by foreign wri- ters, and no lefs admired by thofe who have feen it, had its name from Pedro de Valdi- via, firft governor and conqueror of Chile. It is, as it were, in the centre of the whole kingdom, at almoft forty degrees latitude, fouth-weft from Seville in Spain ; upon a plain map one thoufand nine hundred and feventy leagues, meafured by the heavens. The fun is five hours, and a third part of an hour, -in going from the meridian of Se- villa, to the meridian of Valdivia ; fo that when it is noon at Seville, 'tis in Valdivia fix a-clock and forty minutes in the morn- ing. Its longeft day is of fourteen hours, or thereabouts. Defcription This river has its opening to the north ; of the river an d becaufe of the depth of its waters, great o/Vaidivia. ^ jp S can g Q U p tQ t £ e yer y ^^ which is two or three leagues from the fea : when they are there, they can lie fo near the fhoar, as with a plank to go in and out, and take in and unlade their cargo, with- out the help of boats. There is juft over- againft the city, a fine illand, called the IJland of Confiantine, with two little ones, one before, and the other behind the ifland. The river is navigable on both fides the ifland •, but becaufe die foudi branch has more depth, the great fhips come in that way, and the lefier by the north branch. There are two high points of land, like rocks, which mark the entrance of this ri- ver ; the biggeft is to the north, and is called Bonifacio's Hill ; the fouth is lefier, and is called Gonfalds Hill. When one is entered fome way up the river, there is an- other ftreighter pafiage, which is the key of the port, or rather ports, becaufe there are many harbours within. This entrance has alio two hills, which come fo near each other, that I have heard a captain, who was fent to found the river, relate, That in the middle he was within musket-fhot of either hill; the fouth one is called Morro de los Manfanos, and the oppofite Morro de Niera : fo that, according to this ac- count, diere might be an iron chain laid from the one to the other, with which, and two forts raifed on each fide, the entrance would be made impenetrable. As foon as this ftreight is palled, there The port. is on the fouth fide a noble port •, for though all the river may be called fo, for the quiet- nefs of its water, yet this is more advanta- gioufly fituated, by being covered with the mountains of the land : 'tis called the port of the Corral: it forms a bay capable of receiving great fleets. When^you have palled this port, there appears the firfl ifland ; between which and the land on the fouth-fide, there are many fhoals and finds ; wherefore the fhips take the north-fide, and go between this ifland and the great one ; and then follow their courfe up to the city, by the channel of the great ifland. The lefier veflels may keep the other fide of the ifland. Befides all thefe good qualities, this port has other advantages from the land, by the fertility of the country, which produces corn, and fruits of all kinds, except grapes, which do not ripen here fo well as in other parts of Chile, from which wine is brought to thefe parts : but it has great plenty of beef and mutton, fowls and venifon. It has alfo wood for the building of ihipping ; and that which is above all, it has the richeft mines of the fineft gold in Chile ; and in all America there is none comes up to it, but the gold of Carabaya. This is the account of Antonio de Herre- ra. He adds, That there was an Indian^ who had every day a revenue of twenty five or thirty Pefos of gold ■, which being ob- ferved by the governor Valdivia, he fent the Adelautado Hyeronimo de AMtfhte to Spain, to inform his catholick majefty of the 20 OVALLE 1646. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. int. Recloma, a famous Indian la- Jy. the great riches of the kingdom of Chile, that his majefty might make the more ef- teem of it ; and to invite foreigners to come and people the country, and help him to conquer it, he fent fome Spaniards by land, whofe ftirrups, breaft-plates, and all that ufe to be of iron about a horfe, were of fine gold ; and that, not fatisfied with this, he had refolved to go in perfon, to inform his majefty, and obtain from him the confirma- tion of his government : to which end he employed twenty thoufand Indians to bring him gold, defigning to embark and fail through the ftreights of Magellan, if death had not prevented him. This city was founded by the governor Valdivia in the year 1552. upon a high rifing, but plain fide of a hill, and above the reft of the country. The famous Indian lady Recloma was ve- ry inftrumental in helping towards its con- queft and foundation. The ftory was thus : The Spanijh forces were come to this river, conquering the country all the way before them ; but here the Indians not being wil- ling to let foreigners fettle in their country, took up arms, and making the river ferve for their defence, hundred the progrefs of Valdivia, and gave him great trouble. But he being a man of great courage, was not daunted by this refiftance, but endeavoured to pafs the river to engage the enemy. Upon this occafion, this brave Indian la- dy, either infpired by heaven, or touched by companion of fo much blood as muft be Ihed on both fides, in the rencounter, of- fered the governor, that fhe alone would gain him the victory, without any other force, than that of her eloquence and coura- gious mind. Stay here, fays Ihe, and go no further ; for I will put all this province into thy hands, and will make thee this day, lord of all that thy eyes can difcover. Stay for my return here, and do not fuffer any of thy fol- diers to pafs on a flep further. The gover- nor promifed to do fo ; and, upon his word and promife of good treatment to the In- dians who fhould fubmit to his god and his king, Ihe threw herfelf into the water, and, in the prefence of them all, fwam the river. When fhe was landed, fhe defired audience of the general of the Indians : to whom fhe delivered her mefiage with fo much force of eloquence, that they fubmitting to her rea- fons, promifed to accept of what terms fhould be given them. With this the fa- mous Recloma returned to the Spaniards, finging victory, laying at their feet the richeft prize they could wifh ; and fuch a one, as after much time, expence, and blood- fhed in the conqueft of it, they would have thought themielves well paid to be mafiers of fuch a country, whofe golden mines they prefently began to work : by which J means the city increafed fo faft, that if the devil had not troubled the peace, and caufed the rebellion of the Indians, which ruined it, it had been one of the firft and beft ci- ties of the Indies. The Hollanders, our enemies, are well in- formed of the nature of the country, and the excellency of the port, and do all they can to get pofieffion of it ; but our faviour, who by his grace has hitherto preferved thofe countries free from herefy and its cor- ruption, will not permit, that this H\ of hell fhall infect that air with itsvenemous breath, nor breed a contagion in the puri- ty of its faith, which is propagated fo fin- cere and true in the hearts of thole new chriftians. This has been proved by the fuccefs of a 164.5. fleet of theirs in the year 1643. when thefe • rebellious pirates pafied the ftreights of Ma- gellan, with a defignto fettle at Valdivia ; for though in effect they did people the place, having firft palled by the ifiands of Chiloe, where our company has fo many glorious millions ; in which they threw down the altars and the crolTes, and com- mitted other enormities proper to their im- piety and obftinacy, yet at laft they came off no laughers, but had reafon to lament rather. The fame befel another of their generals, called Antonio Sivajlro, many of his fleet being taken prifoners, and thirty of them hung up by the feet, as is related by their own authors, John and Theodore de Brye. But in this fecond occafion, they paid yet more feverely for their attempt ; for in the very fame ifland, where they had commit- ted all thefe diforders, God took the life of the general, punifhing his unhappy foul with the due chaftifement of fuch an undertaking They loft the fhip which carried their pro- vifions, their ammunition, thirty pieces of artillery, all the brick and lime, and other materials for building three forts, which they had orders to raife in the river of Valdivia, and on the ifland of Conftantine in that river ; and having afterwards got to Valdivia, and begun to people, their new general, whofe name was Elvis Ara?nans, was forced to fhut up all his people in the ifland of Conftantine, becaufe they run from him continually, and forfook him j befides the prifoners made in the iflands of Chiloe, and others deftroy- ed by us, and the warlike Indians. In fhort, God having efpouled this caufe as his own, they were tormented witii hun- ger ; and before the Spaniards, who were on their way, could come up to them, their own difeafes and lofles obliged them to weigh anchor, and be gone. This was their wifeft courfe ; for if they had ftaid till the fleet from Peru had come up to them, and the land forces from Chile had attacked them, Chap. io. Kingdom of CHILE. 21 them, they had not gone off fo well ; for the marquis of Man/era being fo good a foldier himfelf, and fo zealous for god and his king, immediately, upon the firft news of their arrival, had fet out ten fail, which he provided with powder and am- munition, and difpatched them to give advice along the coaft ; then he prepared a navy, which was to be of 1 6 galloons and fhips, and 4000 Spaniards, refolving to go in perfon, or at leaft to fend his fon. The governor of Chile, the marquis of Bayd'es, with his accuftomed vigilancy and readinefs in things, where the fervice of o-od and the king are concerned, and as a captain of that valour and experience, which he fliewed in Flanders, was ready to enter by land, after having provided all the ports of the kingdom with the army kept on foot by his majefty •, fo that if the Hollander had had yet more force than he had, being fo hard preffed both by fea and land, he muft either have relinquished the port, or perifhed there for ever. It has been feen in this occafion, that one man is as good as many in the defence of the caufe of god and their country, againft any invader whatfoever, every one defpifing all dangers on fuch an account ; but particularly colonel de Villa Nueva Soberal fignalized himfelf at this time ; for being general of the kingdom, and go- vernor of the country of Aranco, he ven- tured himfelf in a fmall bark in the midft of winter, to follicite at Lima the neceflary fuccours, and affift the vice-roy for a more quick difpatch of all things. He took with him father Domingo La- zaro, of the company of Jefus, that he might inform him as an eye-witnefs of all that had paffed, he being at that time employed in Cbiloe, in the apoftolical mif- fions when the Hollanders landed : he, ne- verthelefs, with undaunted courage, em-OvALLt. barked in the midft of the winter in a tern- ,J^ 6 - peftuous fea, as it is at that time ; and ^"^V > »- / without apprehenfio'n of all thofe dangers, and of being made a prifoner by the Hol- landers, who lay in his way, and could fcarce be avoided, he arrived at the city of the Conception, where he gave an account of all that had happened ; by which means the country was immediately prepared, and in arms for their defence. There is another action which ought not to be concealed, as well becaufe it Ihews the great prudence of the marquis de Bay- des, as the courage of 20 Spanijh foldiers. It being uncertain whether the enemy were ft ill at Valdivia, or whether he had aban- doned it, they offered to go in a boat up the river, as they did by the governor's command ; and without being terrified by the manifeft danger they expofed them- felves to, they went as high as the town ; and having difcovered the ill condition of the enemy, and his defign of leaving the place, they returned with that advice. This moved the general not to attack them, as was at firft refolved; but it did not hinder his intention of peopling the place, (as I be- lieve was done laft fummer ;) for I have advice from Panama, that there is a gar- rifon of 600 Spaniards left there ; to which our Indian friends being joined, (and the coaft Indians alfo,) diat poft will be hence- forward inexpugnable, and by it the fouth- fea will be fecured ; for it being already fo dangerous to fail through the ftreights, and fo eafy for us who are at home to defend this poft of Valdivia, and having all the land our friends, we receive fuccours both from the Spaniards and Indians, who are fo friendly, that their caciques fent to offer their afflf- tance of their own accord againft the Hol- landers ; I fay it will be very hard hencefor- ward for anyone to give us any difturbance. CHAP. X. A Continuation of the 'Deftription of the Rivers ^Chile, and particularly of thofe which run to the Eaji ; and of the 'Difference between the one and the other Side of the Great Cordillera. Chalbin. TH] the [ E river next to that of Valdivia is that which is called Chalbin ; it is deep, i|and capable of great veffels. From this ri- ^5*ver, to', a place called the Punta de Galera, 'tis about two leagues •, and from this to Rio Bueno feven ; into which fall five rivers more, and one which is beyond the bounds of Valdivia. £■> Ckfo. After this is the Rio Chico, which comes from a lake at the foot of the Cordillera ; in which lake are baths to cure leprofy and other infirmities. Next to this is the Rio de Vol. III. la Ballena, which is clofe to the cape of that Ve fo Sal- name, fo call'd becaufe of a whale of prodi-^» a - gious bignefs, which died upon that coaft. After this, you come to the Archipelago of iflands, into which falls the river call'd De los Rabudos, becaufe of an Indian nation of that name, fo call'd, becaufe 'tis laid they are born with tails, as father Gregory of Leon defer ibes them in his map. More on to the The river fouth is the river Delos Coronados, named fo De los o by the company of afhip which put in there""""^ on the day of the forty martyrs lb called. G After 22 Of the Nature and 'Properties of the Book I. Ovalle. After thefe there are many rivers all 1646. a l on g the coaft; the firft is called De la ^y^f Efperonfa, or of hope, becaufe of the plronfa. wifhes, that one day the light of the gof- pel may reach to thofe parts by means of the minifters of it. The fecond is called ■Rhfin Riofmfundo, or the river without a bot- fundo. torn, becaufe of the great depth of it. GaUegos. The third is called the Gallegos, from a Spaniard of that name who fail'd along thofe coafts, and like another Icarus, gave his name to one of them, by being drown'd in the fea hard by it, at a cape which has the fame name. Then follow the rivers De I>elos.Mar-l os Martyres, and De los Apoftoles ; and im- DeUsApo- me diately after them two others : the firft ftole/. has no name, the fecond is called De los De los d- Gigantes, or of the Gyants, becaufe here games. j-^gy were begun to be feen, and they reach all along the Streights. The fa- DelaCam- mous river call'd De la Campana, enters fima. a t a place named El Ancon fin falida : this name was given to the river, becaufe its two arms feem to form the fhape of a bell. There are two rivers more before you come De los Pa- to the Streights, to wit, that of De los Pa- xares. xaros, or of birds, by reafon of the vaft quantity of them that were upon it, in that part which comes towards the Streights ; St. v\Bo- and the other, of St. Vitlorian, called fo rim. f rorn the opening, to which the fame faint gives its name. As for the other rivers which run among the iflands, and thofe which empty themfelves into the Streights, they are many, and fhall be defcribed in their proper places. Hitherto we have defcribed the rivers of moft renown of this long extended king- dom, which run from eaft to weft, and empty themfelves into the South-Sea: thofe which run from the oppofite part of the Cordillera, towards the north-fea, are not fo well known, becaufe thofe parts are lefs inhabited, at leaft, by fuch as can give us a good account of them. The moft remark- T . . able of them are thofe of St. John and of of st.JohnMendoga, which are very large rivers, and and Men- empty themfelves into the famous lake of <%<*• Guanacache. The governor Hieronimo Lewis de Ca- brera, a gentleman of great valour and merit, met with feveral great rivers in his paffage over thofe vaft plains call'd the Pampas, where, as at fea, people are fain to travel by the compafs, not to lofe them- felves : he was in queft of a nation call'd the CeJJates, of whom we fhall treat hereafter in its proper place. They were fore'd to pafs many great rivers, and without doubt there are many more as far as the Pole. Neverthelefs I am perfuaded, that thefe rivers do not equal thofe which run oppo- fite, and enter the fea on the coaft of Chile ; and this may be clearly gathered from the J difference which may be obferv'd in paffing the Cordillera, between each fide of the mountain, which is fo great, that they feem two different worlds, the eaft and weft parts ; and one would think heaven had put thefe mountains to divide them as a wall, and keep off from the weft, all the ftorms and ill weather of the eaft, where are the provinces of Cuyo and Tucmnoji, not to difturb the ferenity and tranquility of Chile and the weftern parts. Any one that travels to the top of the high chain of mountains, may experience this clear- ly ; for there he difcovers both horizons, and when he looks to the eaft, all is co- ver'd with grofs vapours, which feem to hinder the light, and fhadow all the coun- try ; and at the fame time looking weft, the heaven is fo chriftalline and bright, that it caufes pleafure and joy to look on it. The eaft fide is full of a cloudy, thick air, which engenders ftorms and hail, with hor- rible thunders and lightnings, which fright all the inhabitants : on the other fide, in the weft, there is not a cloud to be {ken, but clear and bright, as if in the heavens themfelves there were fuch a partition as the Cordillera to divide the climates, as that upon earth does produce a difference in the trees, plants, and animals on each fide. A curious obferver contemplating once, The vajl from this heighth, this fo remarkable difference difference, faid, That nature, in the fa-f"™™f* brick of this part of the world, fcem'd to theeaft,and have turn'd her back upon the eaftern pro- thofe on the vinces, and look'd with her race only upon w ,fJ''\ / Chile, giving bleffings with both hands tof^a c °lfi-~ this laft, and leaving the other, as it were, dered. difinherited, and grieving at the pre-emi- nencies of its elder brother. In goin°- down to the eaftward there are fewer fountains and rivers, and thofe muddy, the face of die land melancholy, widiout fo much as one green tree to recreate the fight, nor any pleafant verdure ; and when at laft there is fome, as in the valley of Ufpallata, the heats begin to be fo intolerable, that all things feem af- flicting and unkind. On the other fide, when we go to the weft, 'tis quite con- trary ; for as foon as we begin to defcend, we meet with lovely fprings ; the trees are green, the groves frequent and pleafant, and the little valleys, which are like fo many refting places in that great ftair-cafe, where paffengers take breath, and are rqfrefh'd with the verdure and flowers of them, the air ftill grows purer and purer ; and the more they come down, the more they leave behind them all the inclemencies of the climate of the other fide, enjoying the advantages of the temperate Chile ; for from the very foot of the mountains one feels the mildnefs of the fea air, and one Chap. ii. Kingdom of C H I L E. 23 one is rejoic'd with the harmony of the birds, and other delightful objects, fo as to forget the trouble and danger of the way one has pafs'd. There is the fame difference in the very land at the foot of the mountains ; for on the eaft fide there are few fountains ; the land is barren, and little cultivated ; nei- ther are there flocks of any kind either fed or bred, fo that the fields look like a ufe- lefs barren ground, except it be that the thinnefs of the people has not as yet given way to try the fertility of the earth •, for the plains below thefe are extreamly fertile, where they are cultivated ; but at prefent there is nothing but thorns and barren dry- nefs in thole parts. 'Tis not fo to the weft, where fountains break out continually, which in the winter are temperate, and in the fummer as cold as ice, and that fo much the more as the weather grows hotter and hotter. The r e fprings do fo fertilize the fields at the foot of the mountains, that they keep the earth frefh and green all the year, though it be but a patch ; for moft of the ground is woody, and there is fuch variety of wild trees, that one would think they were ar- bors and groves planted by the hand of man : many of thefe are loaded with fruits of the country, of which the Indians make excellent drinks, and fome of them areOvALLE. very good to eat. The valleys are full of I ^- odoriferous beautiful flowers, brought forth ^V^ by nature, without any human induftry: there are alfo among them moft extraordi- nary phyfical plants of a beautiful afpect. The little hills and plains afford excellent pafture for all forts of cattle and flocks ; there are alfo admirable valleys for plant- ing of olives and almond-trees, and all forts of fruit-trees. At the lower part, about a league in' the plain, there are vine- yards, of which are made excellent wines, particularly mufcadels, which are in great efteem. There are likewife in this defcent of the Excellent mountain, admirable paftures, where great trfures. flocks are bred, and do increafe wonder- fully; their flelh is extream favory, and the milk of the goats is fo fat, that by only boiling and ftirring it gently over the fire, I have feen it grow as thick as if flower had been put into it ; and yet in other parts this milk is of its nature very thin. This may be faid particularly of the young fhe-goats ; and the milk thus boil'd has a fweetnefs and delicacy which paffes ordina- ry milk, even with the things that are put in to mend it ; all which are arguments of the great fubftance and nourifhment of that land. CHAP. XI. Of the Ejfefis produced by the great Snow of the Cordillera. Great "\7^7" I T H the firft rains of die winter, (rums. yV which are about the middle of .May, the Cordillera begins to be cover'd with fnow, and to put on, as it were, a white armour, to hinder its being pafs'd, not on- ly by men, but even by animals and birds, which are fo driven out of it by the ri- gour of that feafon, that there is not one remaining in it. intolerable Even the Silguerillos and Sorfales, birds cold. which of their own nature are fo hot, that in the very beginning of the fummer they take to the mountain, as foon as they per- ceive that the winter draws near, come in flocks down to avoid its rigour in the mountains ; and then it is that the taking of them is eafy, and that as foon as the cold pinches, the ground being almoft co- ver'd with them, it proves the feafon of moft pleafure for the youth of the country, who going out, take fo many of them, ei- ther with glue or nets, that they carry loads of them home, referving thofe of the fineft colours to put in cages, for their har- mony is very fweet. The Cordillera is fhut up five or fix months in the year ; fo that till October orNovember,\t cannot be pafied without manifeft danger of one's life ; and in the midft of winter not at all, becaufe all the paths and ways are cover'd with fnow, to the heighth of many yards ; and if any one fhould be rafh enough to attempt it, he would after a little going, fink in every where, fo that he would not be able to go a ftep forward nor backward, as has happened to feveral, who either for fome very preffing concern and intereft, or flying from a death which threaten'd them for their crimes, have found it in thefe defarts more certainly than perhaps they would have done in the prifons where they fear'd it. Thefe are buried, not in fepulchres whitened on the outfide, nor under cold marble, but in the very bofom of froft and fnow, which preferves them without being imbalm'd, and yet keeps them as incor- ruptible and dry, for fo they have been found after many years ; for fuch is the cold of thofe mountains, that it dries up all the moifture that can caufe corruption in dead bodies, and fo preferves them. This fo infuperable difficulty of paffing the Cordillera, is lefs at the entrance, than the end of the winter, becaufe the drifts of fnow 9 24 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. OvAtLE.fnow are not then fo violent as to fhut up 1646. tne ways entirely ; fo in thofe feafons fome V "'*Y^- / jo venture to pafs, though never but with great danger, and upon urgent occafions : if fometimes they are fo lucky as to get ofF well, becaufe they meet with a clear sky, yet at other times it cofts them dear ; and always 'tis with infinite labour that they get thorough. I have feen others who efcaped with their lives by god's mercy, becaufe the ftorm catch'd them before they were too far en- gaged in the mountain, and fo they could yet make a retreat to the low countries ; others have been forc'd to open their mules bellies that they ride on, and hide them- felves in them ; and by that warmth, and other defence of cloaths, they make a fhift to get over the ftorm of fnow, if it does not laft long ; after which they gain the plains on foot, if they are not too far en- gaged, and fo avoid the danger, but not the long-fufferings which follow generally after fuch adventures. In Ihort, every body has fome ftory to tell of the mountain, and complain of it •, for fome lofe their toes, others their fingers ; fome their fight ; fome are benumm'd and lam'd, and fo remain all their life with great infirmities. And I do not wonder at all at this, becaufe though one fhould pafs without a ftorm, yet the cold is fo terrible, that it cannot but injure nature extreamly in that feafon, fince even in the midft of fummer, when we pafs this mountain, and in the lower part of it fweat with heat, as foon as we come to pafs the top, we are forced to put on double cloathing, and prepare the rtomach with good warm things, to withftand the lharpnefs of the cold, and the fubtilenefs of the air, which penetrates the body through and through, if it be not well cover'd. Among the feveral times that I have pafs'd this mountain, one was in the begin- ning of April, when autumn in thofe parts is at an end, and the winter begins to threa- ten, and I muft own that the cold was fo intenfe, that it feem'd a different fpecies of cold from all thofe I ever felt either in In- dia or Europe ; though even then it had not begun to fnow, the cold was fo fierce that it made one's hands cleave ; nay, it had an effect upon the very rocks, for I remember the fun was reflected by them as by a look- ing-glafs. When we come to treat of the firft difcovery of this kingdom, I ihall re- late what was endur'd by the Adelantado Don Diego de Ahnagri with his army, and by thofe who afterwards followed him, and pafied this mountain, in which they were fo ill handled, that fome were ftruck blind, others lame ; fome loft their fingers with- out feeling it, becaufe the exceffive cold took away all fenfe •, fome were frozen to death, and with them fome horfes, whom fix months after fome other Spaniards found fo frefh and well preferv'd, that they eat of them ; and to fecure themfelves from cold, made a defence of thofe dead bo- dies; nay, fome got into them. About fix years after, others going that way, found a negro, who at that time was fro- zen to death, leaning againft the fide of a rock, with a lead horfe, and the reins in his hand, though confumed with time. They who have a mind to know more par- ticulars, let them read Don Antonio de Her- rera, Decade 5. Book 10. and Chap. 5. and alfo Gareilajfo de la Vega, in his firft tome. 'Tis neceffary to underftand, that it is of this cold of the mountain that authors fpeak, when they fay, That the cold of Chile is fo fevere, that the rivers are frozen up, and men frozen to death in the fields : for this is only true of thofe uninhabitable mountains, where I believe at that feafon the rivers do not run, but are turned into chryftal ; and if any fprings do efcape, they are very few, and that in the valleys molt fecur'd and fhelter'd ; that appears by the rivers which run in the plain coun- try, which are almoft dried up, in compa- nion of the quantity of water that they carry with them in the fummer. And thus the truth of what hiftorians re- late may be faved from contradiction ; for they not knowing the country, make no diftinction between the mountain and the plains, in which there never was feen any fuch effect of cold in any part of them j for the fea air, which is thick and moift, tempers the lharpnefs of the blafts from the Cordillera ; and for this reafon it is, that the colds of the Pampas of Cuyo and Tucu- man are fo infupportable ; as alfo thofe of Buenos Aires, which being at fuch a dis- tance from both feas, and not enjoying the warmth of its vapours, the air in lum- mer is intolerably fcorching, and in winter fo cold, and for want of rain fo dry, that 'tis common for animals to be found dead in the fields, as well as the men too fome- times. fountains of Chile. CHAP. XII. Of the Fountains which rife in other Tarts of Chile, befides the Cordillera. BESIDES the rivers and fprings of admirable properties. I fhall mention fome, the Cordillera, there are others which for 'tis impoffible to rehearfe them all, nor rife in the plains and valleys, i which have can I remember but a few. Firft, that which Chap, i 2. Kingdom of CHILE. *5 which rifes at the foot of the high volcano of Villa Rica, fo famous in that kingdom for its terrible effects, for which God Al- mighty makes himfelf to be feared and re- fpected by mankind ; rifes, I fay, at the foot of this mount with fuch force, that it fprings out of the earth in two fources, each as big as a man, and fufficient to form alone a good ftream, and runs into a lake which is made by its waters. Rio Chi- In another lake, out of which comes the co - river call'd Rio Chico, there rifes alfo a fountain of hot water, moil efficacious for the cure of leprofies, and all contagious in- firmities. There is another fprings up in the Maguey, yet moft admirable •, for there are two fources juft by one another, the one of hot, the other of cold water ; the hot one is fo hot, that no one can endure his hand in it ; the cold one is let in to temper the bath which is made for the fick. The baths of Rancagua are alfo ve- ry famous, and like thefe ; which, for be- ing near St. J ago, and in the greateft inter- courfe of the kingdom, are very ufeful, and much frequented. There are others in other parts ; but not remembering them diftinctly, I can fay little of them. Among Fountain of the. fountains, that of Ramon is very fa- Ramon. mouSj as we u f or t he goodnefs, as abun- dance of its waters •, which is fuch, that they alone are fufficient to water many fields : it is about two leagues eaftward of St. J ago, and in that diftrict. There are Caren. many others, among which that of Caren is worth taking notice of : it fprings in a beautiful meadow, of about five or fix leagues in length, affording a delicious profpecl ; its water is very fweet, and enters into the meadow ; the earth of which is fo porous, that whoever treads hard upon it, feels it make under him : it is all the year green •, and the grafs is a kind of fmall tre- foil, called by the inhabitants Caren, and is pleafant to eat. Neither ought I to pafs over in filence another fountain between thefe two, very plentifully furnifhed with delicate fweet water, which is always fo much the cooler, as the weadier is hotter ; Mayten. j t j s call'd t he fountain of Mayten, by rea- fon of a tree of that name, which grows at the foot of a great fquare table of live rock, where people ufe to go and eat their colla- tions, the tree flickering them all the while from the heat ; for 'tis a tree whofe leaves are green all the year, fomething like a mirtle, but much larger, and without difpute of a more beautiful green: by its foot runs this fountain, whofe fource is a little higher in a valley, from whence it comes murmuring upon pebble flones, and among pleafant groves full of beautiful herbs and flowers. Vol. III. The trees, though wild, yet bear veryOvAixE. fivoury fruits of that foil ; and in them are ^£4^- great variety of birds, who, with their < V > » / harmony and fweet notes, make the enter- tainment more delightful for thofe that fre- quent the place. 'Tis not the leaft part of A deUght- their enjoyment, to difcover at the end oif ul W h tSi - thefe woods a profpecl: for many leagues over plains, which being of fo great ex- tent, many of them lie uncultivated ; fo that among the vineyards and plowed lands, the wild uncultivated part is fo beautiful, particularly in the fpring, that one woald think art had help'd nature. There are in one place great fpots of yellow flowers, which cover the earth, fo that for a great fpace nothing elfe is to be ieen ; then you have white, blue, fillemot fpots of the fame proportion ; the green meadows min- gle in this with the waters of the river Mapocho, which is feen from this diftance Mapocho, fometimes entire in its bed, then divided into feveral arms, and at laft drained into the fields of the neighbouring grounds, to fertilize them. The profpedl is terminated with feveral farms, which are called Cha- cra's, with their churches ; and in the midft of all, the city of St. J ago, the ca- pital of Chile, which being not above two leagues off, and the heavens fo ferene, the towers of it are eafily diftinguiihed, and the bells heard fometimes. This diftrict is full of a great many more fprings, all within the compafs of a mile of each other ; and their waters are excel- lent and healthy. That which is to the north of the city of Conchalii. St. Jago, called Conchalii, is likewife high- ly commended ; it fprings in a little valley, called the Salto, or Leap, becaufe of the fall of the river Mapocho. This river comes running in a plain to a certain place ; where being divided (for it is the work of induf- try) into two branches, the greateft of which runs in its natural channel, the leffer is derived to water this valley ; which towards the weft is even ; but towards the eaft the land is fo high, through which the river runs, that it is two or three mile from the bottom of the valley to the high grounds, from whence the river falls. It is precipi- tated with great noife, making lovely and various cafcades by the rencounter of the rocks and other obftacles, which by their (freight paffages retard its courfe, till at laft it comes entire to the valley, and is divided into cuts and channels for the watering it ; which is not ungrateful, to make a more than ordinary return to thofe who cultivate it, not only in corn, moft excellent wine, and moft favoury fruits of all kinds, but alfo it ripens them above a month before any other place thereabouts; and it is very H remarkable, 26 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovallk. remarkable, that in this valley,which is only 1646. half a league from the city of St. Jago, VY*^' tne figs ufe to be ripe, when in the gar- dens of the city, and all its neighbour- hood, they fcarce begin to change colour : therefore, as well for this as the game it affords, of partridges on the hills, and wild fowl in the waters and ponds of it, it is the greateft entertainment all thofe parts afford. I fhall not dilate upon more of thefe fountains, which are fo frequent ; for if I were to mention them all, I mould never have done ; for fince thofe alone of the Con- ception, Arauco, and the country of the li- mits upon the warlike Lilians, would re- quire a large treatife, befides thofe of the diftrift of St. Jago, what would it be dien in the territories of the ancient cities, which are yet farther in the country? for it abound- ing extremely in rivers, it is to be prefumed that it muft be fo in fountains and fprings •, all which proceeds from the abundance of moifture of the Cordillera. Of thefe fprings, the moft agreeable for their good waters are the fartheft off from the Cordillera, becaufe they are more puri- fied by a long motion, and refin'd by the good qualities of the earth they run through, particularly the mineral impregnations are Angular : I cannot but mention one, which is in the novitiate of the company of the Jefuits of Bucalemo, whofe waters are not to be match'd, at leaft I never met with the like ; for without drinking them, one may difcover by the touch their noblenefs, their foftnefs being like that of new but- ter •, and they do make the hands that are wafh'd in them in a few days fmooth, and thereby prove their vaft difference fiom other waters. Lakes. This fountain fprings in a little valley, A medic very pleafant, under fome hills, about a.""ff Mn ' league from the fea ; and it bubbles up be-'*'"" tween a white fand, in which there is gold, as if it had a fire under it to make it boil. It is wonderful to obferve, that if they throw any bough or flowers upon it, it feems to take it ill, and never is at reft till it has fwallow'd it up, leaping up againft it feveral times, till it has made it its own, ' and hid it from our fight •, and this it will do for a whole evening, if they continue throwing' flowers or branches of trees into it, without any body's being able to tell what becomes of them all. The effedts that this water caufes in the ftomach are admirable : it helps to digeft the meat with mare eafinefs ; it deftroys crudities, diffolves phlegms and grofs hu- mours, and evidently prolongs life, efpe- cially to old men. This was moft parti- cularly made clear in the perfon of that fa- mous captain Sebaftian Garcia Caretto Chu- mazero, the founder of that novitiate, who lived there many years, and came to be ninety years' old in good health, and fo vi- gorous, that he did to the laft go on horic- back through the woods and mountains, as if he had been a young man. I heard him fay many times, that this fountain was his life ; for as foon as he found himfelf any ways out of order, he fent immediately for the water of it, and drinking it frefn from the fpring, he ufed to go to bed up- on it ; where falling afleep, he would after fome time awake well difpofed : this I have often been witnefs of. The old Indians thereabouts experimented the fame, and did attribute their good ftate of health to this fpring, without uling any other phy- fick or remedies. CHAP. XIII. Of the Lakes of Chile, and the Salt that is gathered from them. A FTER having treated of the foun- tains and rivers, it feems natural to treat of the lakes and Handing waters form'd out of them, and by fome inunda- tions of the fea in winter, when it fills them, and leaves them provided for all the fummer. Thofe made by rivers come firft in rank •, and I wifh my memory would ferve to place them here, with their feve- ral qualities. Omitting then to repeat what we have faid of thofe of Aculco and Pudaguel, which being near St. Jago, make the greateft diverfion of its inhabitants, we lake of will begin with the lake of 'Tagataguas, Tagata- about fourteen leagues from that city, and guas. w hich once was more in efteem; for the trouts catch'd there are of a larger fize, and the game for wild fowl fo much more diverting, that there is no comparifon be- C tween thefe waters and others. I do not defcribe here particularly the variety ofwild fowl, becaufe I intend to do it when I treat of the variety of birds of this coun- try. The lakes of Villa Rica are of great renown, though I confefs I know little of their properties. The lake of Puren has been famous, ha- i a i ;e f ving been an impregnable fortrefs for the Puren. warlike Indians our enemies, by reafon of the difpofition and qualities of its fituation ; for from thence they have for many years maintain'd a war with whole armies of Spa- niards, without being fubdued: their advan- tage lay in this, That upon any rout given them by us, they had here a moft certain and fife retreat, which when once they had recovered, they were out of all danger ; for none could hurt them either by fword or fire. The Chap. 13. Kingdom of C H I L E. 27 lake of Rapel. Sea lakes. The fea lakes are alfo many, and of great profit to their owners ; for the fifheries in them are much more certain than in the fea : * for which reafon they furnifh the beft part of the lenten fare, though the fea affords a great deal too. Among the reft the lake of Rapel brings a great revenue : it runs in length above two leagues within the land. In the winter time the fea is joined to it ; for by its ftorms it forces an entrance, but it leaves it full of all forts of fifh; which, with thofe that are bred there, furnifh it for the whole year, and enable it to fupply all the neighbouring country ; and that not only with fifh, but with fait too in abun- dance : for, about January, the commu- nication ceafing between it and the fea, when the fun is at its hotteft in that cli- mate, the water is congealed fo, that it has a cruft of a foot, or more, thick of a moft excellent white fait. This, indeed, does not happen every year; for it requires an extream heat to do it, the lake being deep, and the climate there more enclining to cold : but they provide themfelves in one, for many others ; and the falt-pits made by hand feldom fail ; for they not being of great extent, the water that is let into them turns to fait v/ith lefs heat, the matter to be congealed being lefs in itfelf. And fince we are mentioning fait, I cannot omit to relate what I myfelf have feen in the valley of "Lampa, which is about three leagues from St. Jago ; and it is this, There grows an herb, not unlike to Sweet Bafil, only its green is upon an aih- colour, and not fo gay ; it rifes about a foot above ground : this plant, in the fum- mer, is covered over with fmall grains of fait, like pearl, which is congealed upon its leaves, either from the dew of heaven, or by feme vapour raifed by the fun from Salt found on an herb growing in the valUy of Lampa. that earth; or elfe the nature of the herbOvALLE. itfelf is fuch, as to fweat out this humidi- 1646. ty, which being afterwards congealed by ^"V"*'' the heat of the fun, is turned into fait. Let the caufe be what it will, the effecl: is (cm no where but in this valley, and upon that fpecies of herb ; which is therefore much valued by the Indians, the fait of it being more favoury, and of a finer flavour than any other. I cannot tell whether Johannes de Laet means this in his defcription of the new world ; for having mentioned the kingdom of Chile, to which he gives the preference for its excellent properties, he fays, That in that kingdom, in fome of its valleys, there falls, at certain times of the year, a dew fo thick upon the leaves of the plants, that it is like fugar, and ferves, being kept fome time, for the fime ufe as manna. An- tonio de Herrera reports the fame thing, in his general hiftory of the Weft Indies ; and, amongft other commendations he gives this noble kingdom, he relates the fame thing of this ftrange and admirable dew. I fay upon this, that I know not whether they allude to what I have reported of the valley of Lampa by my own fight, and have no knowledge of that other thing they men- tion ; though one would think, fuch authors fhould diftinguifh tilings fo different in their effecls and favour, as fait and fugar. 'Tis poffible, God may have done both, having been'fo wonderfully liberal to that country, where the fingularities are fo many and wonderful ; and it would therefore be no wonder fome of them fhould not be known, efpecially, confidering that we, who are there employed for the converfion of fouls, have not the time to fearch after curiofities, and fecrets of nature. CHAP. XIV. Wherein is treated of the Sea of the Kingdom of Chile, and of the Etimology of its Name. Sea of '""in 1 H E fountains, fprings, rivers, and Chile. J_ brooks, carry us along with them naturally to the fea, where their courfe ends, and where there is room for my pen to ex- ercife itfelf, if the brevity of this narration did not confine my flight : I muft therefore be content to fay fomething of this element, that the nature of it may not be unknown as to this new world. ztimohgy Beginning therefore with the etimology of the name { i ts name : 'Tis well known that all com- "* e ' monly call it the South Sea, becaufe it is towards the antartick pole, from whence generally the fouth wind blows, in oppofi- lion to the tramontana, pr north, which reigns in the ocean as far as the artick pole. But leaving thefe difputes to the fchools, or rather to that abyfs of divine wifdom, qui profert ventos de thefauris fuis, 'tis a known truth, that the effects which the wind of the artick pole caufes in its jurifdi&ion towards the oppofite part, the fame is caufed by the fouth wind in its motions from the antar- tick towards thefe parts. In Chile we look upon the fouth wind as The fouth a favorable wind, as in Europe the north is w '"d m °fl in the fame efteem. The north with us co-^^f 1 ' vers the heavens with clouds, caufes tem- pefts and ftorms at fea, and makes all the land dark and fad : the fouth, on the contrary, 28 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovalle. contrary, clears the sky, ferenes the air, and 1646. makes the fea as calm as milk : on the con- -^V^ trary, this fame fouth wind, in the north fea, is ftormy, and covers the heavens with clouds, and raifes thofe tempefts, which do fo endanger fhips ; whereas the north, called there tramontana, clears all again, and makes the fine days. From hence proceeds, that in America the fouth wind reigns in fummer, when the fea is calm, and the north in winter, when it is tempeftuous : the north does moft cer- tainly, bring with it the rains, particular- ly from thirty fix degrees to the pole, and that fo fuddenly, that fometimes, in the moment the wind comes to the north, the rain falls, and moft commonly 'tis within half an hour after its change ; and when in thofe parts in winter the fun is clear, and the weather fair, 'tis when the fouth wind overpowers the north ; for the fouth in thofe parts is cold and dry, and fo drives away the clouds, fo as it happens fometimes that the heavens are dark ; and as foon as the clouds are difcharged, if the fouth appears a little the ftronger, 'tis an infallible fign of calm weather, which generally follows in a trice ; for this wind drives all the clouds fo before it, that when it blows, it does not leave one in the sky. The contrary of this is feen in Europe, where the fouth winds bring humidity, and the north drives it away : the fouth re- laxes the body, and affects the head ; but the north ftrengthens the body, purifies the air, and dries up fuperfluous humours. In fhort, thefe two winds caufe quite different effects in Europe and in America, that we may call the Europeans fons of the north, and thofe of South America children of the fouth. From this there follows another very no- table and well-known difference, which is, That as to go from Europe to the Indies, the north is the proper wind, and carries us before it, and by confequence is contrary to our return ; fo in the South Sea, failing from the pole towards thefe parts, the fouth is the favourable wind, and contrary to our return : from whence it proceeds, that the voyage from Spain to Carthagena being by the North Sea, and made in thirty, forty, and fifty days, the return to Spain ufes to laft fourfcore, and a hundred, and more days. On the contrary, in the South Sea, where the voyage from Chile to Lima is but of about a fortnight, and as much more to Panama, or thereabouts, the return on- ly to Lima is of two months, and from thence to Chile forty days. The South Sea is alfo called the Pacifick Sea, to diftinguifh it from the North Sea, whofe ftorms and tempefts are fo frequent ; whereas in the South Sea they are rare : but, in my opi- C nion the difference is for another reafon, which I fhall alledge here. The moft frequent navigations of the Remarkien South Sea are from Peru to Panama, and< heni,v '£' , ~ from thence to New Spain and die Phili-f^[^ pinas ; and thofe from Peru to Chile are lefs ufed : by which it appears, that the beft part of the South Sea navigations are between the tropicks ; and fo the fun has fo much force, as to keep the winds from being fu- rious, and making fuch lafting ftorms as thofe which are raifed without the tropicks, and in parts nearer the pole ; for this rea- fon the failors in thefe warm climates, where there never is any winter, called this fea the Pacifick Sea, from the good effects Called alfo they experiment in it. The contrary of thisj. , g^~ is in the North Sea, where moft of the navi- gations are out of the tropicks ; where the fun having lefs force, the winter predomi- nates, and raifes mighty ftorms. Now the Europeans, who firft navigated the South Sea, being fuch as were ufed to thofe dan- gers, to which the navigators of the nor- thern parts are moft commonly expofed, when they found fo quiet a fea as that un- der the line, and in thofe which particu- larly are the feat of commerce with New Spain, Panama, and Peru, they gave it the name of Pacifick, widiout examining any further the caufe of the difference of the effects, which they experienced in both feas : but if they had try a that very South Sea beyond the tropick of Capricorn, they would not fo eafily have named it Pacifick. I know that this difcourfe will be ap- proved by thofe who have had experience of the hardships which are fuffered by the na- vigators, from the twenty fixth degree of latitude on the coaft of Chile, to fifty three degrees -, for there, as foon as the winter be- gins, the fea cannot be navigated without manifeft danger, the ftorms being no ways inferior to the greateft in the North Sea ; and though at that feafon it is not fo dangerous for fhips to fail from Chile to Lima, becaufe they every day get into a lefs latitude, and fo enjoy a quieter fea, yet from Peru to Chile it is extream dangerous, not only be- caufe they come into a greater latitude, and go out further to fea, to avoid the fouth winds oppofition, but alfo becaufe the va- pours of the fea, and cold mifts of the earth do raife fuch fogs and dark clouds, that they cover the land fo, that when they make their port, they are in great danger of fplitting upon the rocks. This, I fay, is only of thofe coafts of Chile which are in the leaft latitude ; for from the city of the Conception, towards the pole, even in fummer, they are dan- gerous ; and the fhips which are bound for the iflands of Chiloe have not above two or three months in the year to go in and out con- Chap. 15. Kingdom of CHILE. 29 conveniently, or they neither go in nor out till the year following : this is under- stood as far as forty four or forty five de- grees, in which this archipelago of ifiands is placed •, for from thence to the ftreights of Magellan, thofe may relate the dangers who have experienced them, and palled thofe ftreights : all that I know of it, is, that they all have matter enough to difcourfe of at their return. So that we may fay, that the name of Pacifick does not abfolutely belong to the South Sea, according to its whole extent, but only as to thofe parts of greateft inter- courfe, which, becaufe they are within the tropicks, are the freeft from ftorms ; and yet it cannot be deny'd, but that the South Sea has an advantage over the North Sea, even within the tropicks, which is, that it is free from thofe great fands which are fo common in the North Sea, about Carthage- na, La Havana, and other ifiands, nay, even in the canal of Bahama ; which indeed are fo many, that let a ftorm be but mo- derate, they make it ftill greater, and more dangerous, by fhortening the fea-room, and force the failors to be always heaving the lead, or elfe to fplit upon the rocks, which may be clearly feen and diftinguifhed from the fhip's fide. I find likewife, that the South Sea may be called Pacifick for another reafon, which is, becaufe of the extream quiet it enjoys in its navigation, without disturbance from any of its enemies, who are fo frequent on all the fhores of the North Sea ; for there be- ing no other entrance into the South Sea, Ovalle. but by the ftreights of Magellan and St. ^^. Vincent, which are at fuch diftance, and *****' defended by nature itfelf, the enemies of our quiet do not care to engage in fo ufelefs and dangerous a defign, with fo manifeft a deftruction, and fo little advantage, as hath happened already to fome hereticks who have attempted it ; for having no fet- tlement, nor landing place in all that vaft fea, they have been forced to fail to the Pbilippinas : therefore the fhips of the South Sea are free from any fear of enemies, and go and come without any apprehenfion of danger on that fide. Antonio de Her r era, in the fifth Decade of his General Hijlory, folio 319. relates the motive that Magellan had to call this the Pacifick Sea, and that is, Becaufe there is not in all that element a more fpecious career for the winds and tides, and becaufe there reigns between the tropicks fo fteddy and ftrong a levant, that in many days the feamen need not hand their fails, nor the fteerfman his helm, fail- ing through thofe vaft feas as if it were in a canal or river. And the fame author adds, That this motion of this wind pro- ceeds from the courfe of the firft Mobile, which is proved by its perpetual invariabili- ty, and the increafe of its vehemence, as it draws nearer the Equinox. Some difpute, whether it ought to be called a wind, or an impulfe which the air receives from fu - perior orbs, communicated to them by the firft fphere. So far this author. CHAP. XV. Of the Sea Coafts of Chile, and its 'Ports and Havens. I T would be too great an excurfion be- yond my purpofe, to mention all the ports and creeks along the coaft of Chile ; Spilberg., for they are very numerous. George Spil- ci/er-.ation berg, admiral of a fleet of fix fail, whofe of twenty names were, the New Sun, the New Moon, ^hllheighti t ^ ie H unter -> the Pole-Star, Eolus, and Luci- tf Magel- fer, fays, he obferved twenty five ports in Ian. the ftreights of Magellan alone, before he entered the South Sea : he commends them mightily, but particularly he is much plea- f d with the twenty fifth •, for he ftaid in it fome time, and gave it his own name : he calls it a noble port, by reafon of its fafenefs for fhipping, as alfo for the plea- fantnefs of the fields, which, he fays, were all covered with fruit ; which I fuppofe were ftrawberries, according to the defcrip- tion he makes of them. He found there likewife abundance of excellent oyfters, at the mouth of a river, which beautify'd that port extremely, k falling into it from high Vol. III. mountains. But this retreat did not ferve them long -, for having feen fome very fine coloured birds, they purfued them on ihore, and hunted them ; which they had no fooner begun to do, but they were aflault- Spilberg ed by a troop of Indians, with clubs in a S^ tld h their hands, and fome of them were killed, and the reft forced to retire to their fhips, and fet fail in hafte ; which is a great mark of the valour with which thofe people en- gaged them ; for though they had fire-arms, they could not withftand the charge. The moft famous port in all the coaft, p ° rt °f Co * befides that of Valdivia, which we have de- quim °" fcribed already, is that of Coquimbo, men- tioned in our Seventh chapter ; and it de- ferves all forts of commendation, as well for its lovely bay, where fhips ride as fafe as can be, as alfo for the pleafantnefs of the country about it •, which is one of the moft delicious of all Chile. The products of the countryare particularly gold and I copper, 30 Of the Nature and Properties of the BookI. Ovalle. copper, which is carried from thence to 1646. Peru; for the making of artillery, calling ^V"^ 1 of bells, and other houfhold furniture. Copiapo, The ports alfo of Copiapo and Guafco are Guafeo, efteemed, and more defervedly that of Pa- am/Pacu- cu ^ w hich is a private hidden bay, where the fhips of Peru come to load with the hides and tallow of Chuapa ; as alfo with tar and tackling for fhips, which is made in that valley, and is whiter and better than any in Chile, by reafon of the excellent wa- ters they make ufe of in its making. Quintero. The next good port to thefe, is, that of Quintero, where the general of the fix fhips above named landed ; and it being a place uninhabited, met with no oppofition, but refrefhed his men with a large fifhing which they made. They do fo commend the place, that they cannot fufficiently (they fay) extol the pleafantnefs of the land, the fweetnefs of the water, the fecurity for fhips, and, in fhort, all forts of conve- niencies for human life ; and after thefe many encomiums, the hiftorian concludes thus, portus hie nulli fecundus, this port yields to none ; and yet this port of Quin- tero is none of the famous ones of Chile ; by which it may be inferred, that he was but little acquainted with the reft. He could not land in them ; for he found them all guarded by the militia, who expected him ; and though coming to Val Paraifo, he had begun to land fome men, yet, up- on advice that the horfe of St. J ago were at hand to hinder the defcent, he took them on board again ; and failing at midnight, caft anchor at Quintero, where they water- ed, and cut wood, the admiral himfelf landing with many foldiers to protect his men : there they drew up a trench, with a kind of half-moon, to fecure their retreat againft the Spaniards, who began to appear upon the hills ; but they did not ftay for them, but embarking again, followed their courfe towards Peru, not landing any where elfe ; but yet they commend the land ex- treamly. Coucon.or After thefe follows the port of Coucon, or Quillota, Quillota, which ferves to embark the pro- mi Val ^y^ f r^Qfe valleys ; and hard by that, the port of Val Paraifo, where are landed all the goods brought for the city of St. J ago : from whence they are diftributed all over its territory, and as far as Cuyo, and Tucuman : This port is every day more and more inhabited ; and there is building a convent of auftin friars, which will be of great relief to the fouls of the inhabitants, and of all thofe who go and come, who are not a few ; for this is the port of the great- eft commerce with Peru : 'tis diftant from St- J ago twenty four leagues, all plain and good way, fit for carriage ; and fo all the .commodities of both kingdoms are convey- led and exchanged by it. Near the port of Val Paraifo is that of St. Antonio, which is alfo very fafe and good, and is at the mouth of the river Maypo. There is a miftake in authors about this ; for they place the port of Val Paraifo at the mouth of a river, which they make in their maps to come from St. J ago ; which is a very great error, becaufe, at Val Pa- raifo there is no river of any note, but only fpringsand fountains, whi h rife out of the rocks clofe by the fea, which are moft ex- cellent waters. There are alfo others of a coarfer nature, with which the fhips fill their provifion, becaufe they having more body, they refill better at fea againft cor- ruption. There ere feveral other ports between that and the Conception, in the bays and mouths of rivers •, but not much ufed, be- caufe they are not neceflary •, all thofe val- leys from Maule to Quillota fending their commodities to Val Paraifo. I believe in time other ports will be imployed, becaufe the products of that kingdom multiply a- pace, and fo people will be willing to feek out the neareft ports for embarking their goods. All the product from Maule up- wards, is carried to the harbour of the Con- ception, which is the bell bay in all thofe coafts ; and it being a very large one, pro- vidence placed at its entrance the ifland of Quiriauina ; under which, asunder a mole, iflandof fhips are fecured in foul weather. At theQuiriqui- largeft entrance of this bay is the port of na - la Herradura, or Horfe-Shoe, it being in La Herra- that form ; and oppofite to that is that of ^cett', St. Vincent ; and a little farther, that of and Carne- Carnero, called fo for the refrefhment it af- ro. forded to one of the fhips of the bifhop of Palencia, who, by order of Charles V. paf- fed the (freights of Magellan with fix fail, and having loft theirPatache, were forced to the Moluccas. Next to thefe are the ports of Tirva undseveral 0- Qnedal, La Baia Chica, that of Puralla,' her nm ' the port of St. Cebrian, that of Santla Clara, that of St. Domingo, St. Efleran, Los Reyes, that of Baixas, that of the Innocents, and many others lefs considerable, as tar as the ftreights of Magellan. Befides thefe ports which we have mark- ed upon the terra firma, there are feveral others, well known in the iflands of Juan Fernandes, La Mocha, Santla Maria, in the iflands of Chiloe, Alfie ; where the moft frequented are that of Carelmapo, and that called the Englifh Port, becaufe formerly an Englifh fhip landed there, and the men and fhip, with all its artillery, were made prize. There are alfo feveral other ports in the ar- chipelago of Chiloe, which I forbear mention- ing, becaufe I have not a perfect account of them. c CHAP. Chap. 16. Kingdom of C H I L E, CHAP. XVI. Of the Fertility of the whole Coafi of Chile. 3 1 OVALLE. 1646. H E abundance and fertility of this kingdom is not only perceived in its valleys and fields, but likewife in its whole coaft, even on the rocks, where the fea beats. It will be hard to make this appear by particulars, becaufe though in other parts of the world the rocks produce fhell- fifh, yet I do not know that it is in fuch quantity, nor fo large any where as in Chile., nor of fo many different fpecies. Firft, I will fpeak of that which is mod common and intelligible: There grows along the The herb coaft every where an herb not unlike to Luche. endive ; they call it Luche, which they pull from the rocks : it is gadiered in the fpring, when 'tis moft grown ; and being dried in the fun, 'tis made into loaves, which are look'd upon as a great delicacy far from the fea, particularly in Peru, Cuyo, and Tucu- man ; for it ferves for many fauces. It grows upon the tops of rocks, fuch as are above the water. At the foot of the rocks are found certain roots, which bring forth _, t a trunk as thick as one's wrift, called Ulte- Ultecueile. cuefte : this they cut, and laying it before the fire, they pare it like a lettice, or car- doon, or thiftle, but it has a much diffe- rent tafte. From thefe trunks fhoot out certain long cods, of three or four yards long, and fome of about fix or eight fin- gers in breadth : thefe they call Coehauyo ; and there are two forts of them, which, though they refemble one another, yet the Indians make a great difference between them, referving the good, which they cut and dry, and make provifion of them for Lent; the others they leave to the fea, which heaps them up upon the fhoar, where they lie in heaps very ufelefs. So much for the herbs. Now let us fpeak of the fea fhell-fifh. The belt of this kind are Oyfters. oyfters, both great and fmall, fo much talked of by the Hollanders with great commendations : they found them in the {freights of Magellan ; but the greater! plen- ty of them is on the coaft of Coquimbo, where they are very large and delicious; the lefier fort they call Tacas, very much valued too, and taken all along that coaft. But thofe of greateft renown are the oyfters of Chuapa ; in the great ones are bred pearls, as the Dutch lay, and, according to John and "Theodore de Brye, they bought fome of the Indians in the {freights very finely wrought. Choros. That which they call Choros is alfo a fine fort of fhell-fifh, and in its fhell, as Antonio de Herrera fays, there are pearl ve- ry white. That fort which I have feen is not fo big ; but fince they are to be found every where, there may be of all forts of them ; for they are caught in abundance, both little, middle fize, and large ones, fome as broad as my hand. The choiceft of them are thofe which have the fifh of a yellow colour, though the black ones are good too. There is another fhell-fifh, called Mane- Manegues. gues, which is in two round fhells, fuch as ferve for models in architecture •, the fifh within is but coarfe meat, but of good fuftenance. In one kind of thefe, which is the little fort, in opening the fhell, which in the infide is like mother of pearl, when one takes out the meat, one may fee the impreflion on die fhell, of a purple co- lour, which reprefents the image of the moft holy virgin, with her mantle, and her child in her arms, which caufes great devo- tiofl and comfort ; and, though they all have this impreflion, yet fome have it fo perfect, that it is wonderful. A fifh they call Locos may alfo be rank- Locos, or ed among the fhell-fifh : they call them al- j\ fss " fo AJs s-Hoof, becaufe they are of that fhape: They are very favoury, but hard and in- digent; for which reafon they are to be eaten fparingly, though in the drefiing of them they macerate them between two ftones, to foften them. I fhould never have done, to go through all the kinds of lhell-fifh ; as likewife of fnills, which are alfo good to eat, and are produced on the rocks. There are fome caft up by the fea, in fuch quantity, that fliip loads may be had of them, of fuch variety of figures and colours, that I doubt not but the curious in Europe would value them, and our ar- tifts would make curiofities of them ; but they, for want of fuch artificers, are good for nothing in the Indies, but to make lime of, by burning them in a furnace •, yet they are in fuch vaft quantities, that the fhore is covered with them, and they make a fine fhew. The fhell-fifh called Picas de Papagayos, Picos de are another kind much efteemed : they are Papagayos. fo called, becaufe for their fhape and big- nefs, they are juft like parrots heads; and as thefe birds build their nefts on fhoar, in fome hollow rocks and caves, fo this fifh breeds in a kind of ftone-work, hollow, like little cells, where it grows till it comes to be of the bignefs of thofe heads. They drefs them in thofe very nefts, which ferve for pots, and when they are enough, take them out. They are excellent meat. .Thofe £2 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. OVALLE 1646. Kericos. Crabs, Apavico- ras, and Praunes. Lobfiers. Thofe which they call Kericos, though common in other parts, yet I never law them fo large as in thofe parts •, and being taken in the increafe of the moon, they have very large tongues, fat, and of about two fingers breadth. The Crabs, Apavicoras, and Praunes, are likewife very good, and of feveral forts and fizes. The Lobfiers, and thofe of that kind, are likewife much efteemed ; they breed under the rocks, and are fifhed for, as all the reft, not with nets, but on- ly by the Indians going into the fea up to their middle, and knocking them from the rocks with flicks in their hands. So much for this kind of eatables. There are others which live a little more in the fea, which are of a beautiful form v fome they call fea- ftars -, fome the fun ; others the moon ; be- caufe they are of the form of thofe planets, as they are commonly painted. Thefe may be eaten too •, but they have one very An- gular propriety, which is, to cure the vice of drunkennefs, being reduc'd to powder, and given in wine to drink ; and this is of fo certain an effect, that thofe, who before they took it had no greater delight than drinking of wine, did afterwards fo abhor it, that they would not touch it, though they were hir'd. This is a healthy remedy, as well as fure ; and therefore us'd by the Negroes to avoid taking another ; which, though as certain, is very dangerous ; which is, drinking the fweat of a horfe mingled with wine. They fay, this puts thofe who take it, in danger of lofing fome of their fenfes ; though I knew pne, who being ex- ceedingly given to drunkennefs, his wife gave him this remedy without his know- ledge, and it did him no other hurt than to make him hate wine, fo that he could not bear the fmell of it ; but, as I faid, the Negroes ufe the powder of the ftar-fifh ; and though I bave obferved, that with fome it is not fo efficacious, but they long for wine again after a while, yet it is but to repeat the remedy as foon as that ill inclination prevails again : and this is commonly fo pra&ifed upon the Negroes, who are much given to that vice. CHAP. XVII. Of the various Kinds of Fijb which are fflied on the Coaji of Chile. The whaL L E T the whale appear firft, fince by its bignefs it is a kind of king of the fea ; and if where the king is, the court is, we may give that title to the fea of Chile, where there is fuch ftore of whales, that I know not any place where they abound more ; and they are accompanied by fuch a court of little nfhes of all kinds, that thofe who have navigated thofe leas, cannot but mention it with admiration. Among the reft, William Seerten, who came with a fleet through the ftreights, fays, That they met with fo many whales near certain iflands, that they were forced to fail with great care and attention to avoid them, they being fo many, that they were almoft always in the lhips way, and endangered the lofs of them, being fo big, that they look'd like rocks : they are all along the coaft of Copiapo and Gaafco, and are of no fmall profit, by the ambergreece they caft on fhoar. The journals of thofe who have pafied the ftreights do mention much of this amber floating on the fea, and therefore no doubt but a great deal of it is on fhoar ; but it is loft, for the Indians having no va- lue for it, know it not; and 'tis but with- in thefe twelve years that the Araucanas minded it ; by feeing fome Spanijh foldiers look for it, they did fo too, and found a great deal, and very good, on the coaft. Of the grey fort, which is the beft, they found great pieces of an afh colour, with a nobler and more delicate fmell ; the ordi- nary forts are yellow and black, and it has a quicker, though not fo fweet a fmell as the grey. I have heard the people of thofe parts fay commonly, that the difference is very accidental, and that it depends only upon being more or lefs prepar'd by the fun-beams : and experience feems to con- firm this thought; for I have obferv'd that the black does in time grow white, by be- ing expos'd to the fun in a box ; but if it be laid open, fo as both fun and rain come upon it, the experiment will be more ma- nifeft ; and as for the harfhnefs of the fmell, it may be remedied by infufions in rofe water, expofing it firft to the dews for nine days, and then to the fire, by which means it grows perfect. Though 'tis known that amber is a thing which the whales caft from them, there is diverfity of opinion about the manner, be- caufe fome think that this noble product is form'd at the bottom of the fea, or upon fome rocks ; and that the whales eat it for food, and not being able to endure it in their ftomachs, becaufe it is naturally ex- tream hot, they get to the fhore to caft it up: others fay, it is the whales excrements. "Tis not my bufinefs to decide this difpute. The other great advantage which the whales are of to the country, is the oil they afford after they are dead ; and it is a great deal that one whale will yield : it ferves for various ufes of life. We do not know that thefe fifhes die of a violent death, Chap. "17* Kingdom of CHILE. 33 death, becaufe their vaft bulk defends them both from men, and all other animals, that may be their enemies ; but yet being fub- jedt to pay the common debt of nature, when they find themfelves near death, they draw near the land, and are often caft on fhore by the fea, which will not bear any corruption in its waters; and 'tis ftrange to fee how they are thrown up in great numbers on thofe coafts. The oil is made by the heat of the fun, and when the wea- ther has confum'd the flefh, the ribs and other bones remain white ; and the Indians make ufe of them for feats : much more conveniency and curiofity might be afforded by them to other workmen. There are another fort of fifh which are found iroft on the coaft of Coquimbo, which are not fo big as whales, but yet are very large, and a good fifh to eat, which are Tunny.fiJJ, t tne tunny-fifh, and the Albacoras, which md Alba- tne j n fc am Y\\\ with great dexterity : they coras. , » 1 j go into the fea a good way upon floats or feal-skins, well fowed together, and blown up like a bladder ; they carry with them a kind of trident with ftiarp tongues ; this is fattened to a long, flender, but Itrong rope ; the Indian guides his float near the fifh he choofes, and then darts it with his trident ; the tunny, as foon as wounded, goes out to fea like lightening ; the Indian gives him rope enough, and follows him the way that he runs, till the fifh has fpent itfelf by lofs of blood ; and then the Indian draws in his rope, and the fjfti with it, either dead or dying, and lays it on his float, and he returns to port with his prey rejoicing. There are many other forts of fifhes ; one rly'mg-fijk.of the mod extraordinary is the flying- fifh, which fly with wings, and follow a Vm-fifi: fhip like birds. The lion-fifh is alfo ad- mirable : they are found in great quantities about the S freights of Magellan, near a port, call'd Port Defire : they are very good to cat, but very hard to take ; for though they wound them with Ihot in ma- ny places, yet if they do not hit them in the head, or the ftomach, they do not yield : they are as big as a colt, and have a lion's head, with a perfect mane ; which the females of them have not, neither are they above half as big as the males, and have a thinner skin. Thofe who have fail'd through the S freights, talk much of thefe fea-lions, and do alfo mention many otherOvALLE. forts of fifhes which they took there, fome ^°4 6 - of fixteen foot long, very favoury and good v **v^ / to eat. Antonio de Herrera fays, That there are fifhes taken in the ifland of Santla Maria, out df whofc eyes they take a fort of coarfe pearl, which have a glofs like the true ones, and are worn by the women ; and if, as they are foft, they were a little hard, they would be better than pearls. The fea wolves, or feals, which are found Sea-wives, on all the coafts, are innumerable. I have 6r f 1 * 1 '- feen whole rocks cover'd with them, and they lay even one upon another, fo as fome of them rolled down into the fea again, there not being room for fo many : they are as big as calves, and make a noife like them. Antonio de Herrera, in the voyage of Magellan fays, That in the river of the Crofs, in the Str eights, they took one fo large, that without his head, skin, and fat, he weighed nineteen Caftillan Arrobas. The An Arroba Indians take them for their skins, which are" twent y very hard and ftrong, and fome eat their flefh. As to the plenty of the ordinary fifh of thofe feas, the authors already cited fpeak very advantageoufly of their kinds, particularly IVilliam Scowten, who coming with his fleet to the ifland of Juan Fernan- des, in thirty three degrees^ and forty eight minutes, the quantity of fifh they met with was fo great, that in a very little time they catch'd a great quantity of Robalos, which is the beft and moft wholefome fifh of all thofe parts. They did not take them with nets, becaufe they had not time to land, but with hooks at fea, by the ftiip's fide, and that as faft as they could throw in and pull up. What I myfelf have feen, is in the great lake of Rapel, all the fides of it cover'd with Pejereges, by the vaft quantity ofPejereges. them which came upon the coaft, as the droves of pilchards by the bay of Concep- tion, and in Chiloe, fo that they take them with blankets. I have feen the fame droves of tunny-fifh, which come leaping over one another's backs, as if there were not room for them ; and, indeed, that climate being fo favourable to multiplication in all animals on fhoar, as fhall be fhewed in its proper place, it cannot well be otherwife as to the fifties. CHAP. XVIII. Of the Birds of Chile. TH E birds and fifhes feem to be bro- thers of the fame venter, the author of nature having created them both out of the element of water •, and therefore, to Vol. III. difpatch all the creature's of this country, having treated of the firft, it feems that the chain of an orderly narration obliges us to fay fomething of the others. To fpeak K generally. 34 OVALLE. 1646. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. The eagle. 1640. Tattkons. Birds of prey. Singing- birds. Birds of game. Tame fowl Swallows. Owls and bits. generally, it may be truly faid of the air of that hemifphere, that it has a great ad- vantage over the earth, though fo fertile, fo rich, and fo delicious, as we have repre- fented it ; for though it is true, that it now produces the animals and fruits of Europe, with fuch an increafe as is wonderful, yet it cannot be denied, that before the Spa- niards carried thither the feeds and animals which are now fo multiplied, (for they had them not in any fort, though perhaps others which fupplied the want of them,) the air, without being at all enrich'd by the accef- fion of foreigners, has maintain'd always fuch an abundance of the volatile kind, that it needed no fupplies from Europe, but ra- ther has many to make up any one defect. To begin with the king of them all, the eagle : there are there abundance of them ; thofe which are call'd royal or imperial have been feen there only twice ; firft, when the Spaniards firft enter'd that king- dom i and the fecond time, in the year 1 640. when the Araucanos fubmitted their untam'd necks to their God and the king, they interpreting this as one of the figns of God Almighty's will to incline them to take that relblution which they then took. As for the ordinary eagles, who do not dif- fer much from the others, they have al- ways been and are ftill in the country very common. There are likewife bred faul- cons, fo large and ftrong, that for their beauty they have been carried from thence, though fo far, as a prefent to the king of Spain ; and they are commonly carried to Peru, particularly that kind which are cal- led frimas, or firft, though thofe call'd fecond are very large too. There are befides, all other birds of rapine and prey ; and of the finging-birds, there are linnets, bul- finches, nightingales, blackbirds, and ma- ny others, who lorm fome a bafs, and fome a tenor, with all the other parts of a har- mony, beyond belief, particularly in fum- mer, under the ftiades of trees. The birds for game are, herons, par- tridges, wild pigeons, thrufhes, turtles, par- rots, wild ducks of a thoufand forts, fome of one colour, and fome of another, and . all very good. The domeftick tame fowls are hens, ducks, geefe, turkeys; and that nothing may be wanting, fwallows in rum- mer, which go away in winter, as they do in Europe, to warmer climates ; fcreech-owls, and other night-birds -, as alfo bats. Thefe are the birds of the European kind, which are found in thofe parts, as well as I can remember ; and there is hardly a bird here in Europe, that I obferve in the fields, that I have not oblerv'd the like fomewhere in Chile, with very little difference. Who now can defcribe the variety of native birds of that climate ? who are in fuch variety and abundance, that people are fain to guard their vineyards from them as foon as the grapes begin to ripen ; and yet 'tis impoffible to hinder them from doing a great deal of mifchief, they being fo nim- ble, and having fo fecure a retreat, though all forts of inventions, fuch as guns, crofs- bows, flings, fcare-crows, are put in ufe; fo that if any are negligent, they may be fure to find their vintage made to their hand. And this mifchief is not only for their vine- yards, but likewife for all feeds, which is fain to be watched after 'tis fowed, 'till it fprouts ; and as foon as the wheat and maiz begin to ripen, the guards muft be renewed ; for there comes whole armies of birds to attack them, and do them as much mif- chief as if they were Xerxes' s armies. In particular, the parrots are fo voracious Parrots, and greedy, and have a bill that cuts like a razor ; they come in flocks of fuch an extent, that when they rife they cover the air, and fill it with fuch a confufion of cries, that I cannot find any thing to compare it to. This kind of birds is bred all over Chile, in the mountains, and in the Cordil- lera ; and 'tis wonderful to fee how exactly they come to an hour, as if they were call'd by a bell, or had fome notice where and when the fruits are ripe, and in feafon for them to enjoy them : they come down from the mountains in the evening ; and die noife they make in flying, though they fly high, is fuch, that one would think them clofe by : they have a fhrill clear voice, and they fly all fcreaming at once, fo that their noife is very loud : they are all green and yellow, and have a blue circle about their neck, and very good to eat, particularly the young-ones. Thofe years which are to prove rainy, as the natives obferve, as foon as the wea- ther grows cool, before the winter begins, one may fee every evening, for many days, great quantities of crows come down from the Cordillera into the plains: they come about an hour before fun-fet in fquadrons, forming a triangle or pyramid, the point of which is led by one fingle one, before whom none dare go : the figure they make is moft regular, with great correfpondency to each other, as if they were fixed in the air, and immoveable, fo equal and well- concerted is their flight. There is likewife a bird which we call Taltales, or Taltales, or Galinafos : it is like a duck, but Gahnafos - has bigger wings: they are either black or brown, and very voracious of carrion. In the time of flaughtering, which is every year in Chile of moft beads, there is a great deal of flefh loft ; then thefe birds come, as if one had founded a charge to them, and fall upon the carrion with fo much greedinefs, that having eaten their fill, Chap, i 9. Kingdom of CHILE. 35 fill, they cannot rife again, and are eafily knock'd on the head with flicks : the bones of their legs are valued to make fcizers, and their quills, which are as thick as ones fin- ger, ferve for harpficals, and other curiofi- ties. Out of this flaughtering-time they die with hunger ; but among all the ways they have of maintaining themfelves, their way of hunting young goats and lambs is admirable : they fit upon high trees, and from thence fpy the flocks of iheep and goats, watching till any of the young-ones ftray from the guard of its dam, as they often do, either flaying behind to feed, or climbing fome rock : this the Taltale quick- ly feeing ; and that the young-one is far from the defence either of the fhepherd orOvALLE. old-one, it leaps upon it, and the firft thing y^^ it does, is to peck out its eyes, and eat its ^v^^ brains ; which it does fo quick, that though it cry, and the fhepherd or mother come to its relief, 'tis too late. Very like to thefe are another fort of bird, both as to bignefs, co- lour, and fhape, and its difpofition to prey ; they call them Peuques, only they are ibme- Peuques. thing lefs, and of a nicer diet, being plcafed with nothing but hens or chickens, which they take very dexteroufly : they are g bold and nimble, as to get into a hen- -o ft, and carry away their prey, even in pi efeftce of the owners, without being flopped or prevented. CHAP. XIX. The fame Matter isflirfued, and the Flying of Hawks treated of. Flamen- cos. The Child Bird. Herons- feathers. Gartjolas. Voycas. AMONGST the great number of birds which are bred in lakes and ponds, and on the fea-fide, which are of great variety, none are more remarkable than the birds called Flamencos : they are white and fcarlet, bigger than turkeys, but fo long legg'd that they walk through a lake with great gravity, the water not touching their feathers by a foot or two : the Indians delight in making works of their white and fcarlet feathers, for their dances and their feafts. There is another bird, called the Child- bird, becaufe it looks like a fwadled child with its arms at liberty : I have not feen them any where but at fea ; perhaps they are the fame, called Pinguins, of which fre- quent mention is made by thofe who pafs the Streights of Magellan : They are ge- nerally painted in the maps ; and they fay, there are abundance of them in thofe parts, and that they are good meat. There are other birds which furnifh the tufts of feathers, called Herons-feathers, which though lb narrow, yet are fo valued, that formerly every feather was worth two rials : thofe which grow under their wings are larger and better, though thofe on their heads, which they wear as aigrettes, are very fine. There are but few of this kind of birds ; for they do not increafe fo much as others. There are more of that kind, call'd Garcolas, which ferve for foldiers feathers, and other ornament. There are many others of great variety of colours, of which the Indians ufe to make their orna- ments, called Mallengues, which are made for the head like a garland of moft fine co- lours of wooll, and in that they flick a plume of feathers, for their dances, and days of rejoicing. The birds called by the Indians Voycas, are very famous among them, in whofe. notes, at certain times and places, they find great myfteries, prognofticating by them, either their own, or their children, or their friends death, or ficknefs, or other misfor- tune ; and they remain with great appre- henfion and fear. The Spaniards call thefe birds Pedncolorados, that is, marked on the breaft ; becaufe there is no fcarlet deeper, nor brighter, than the red on their breaft : the other feathers of their wings and body are brown. There are other very little ones, called Pinguedas, whofe body is not much Pinguedas. bigger than an almond : thefe live upon flowers ; and that they may come at the honey of them, nature has given them a bill, which, when 'tis fhut, is like a needle to fow with ; and for this reafon they feed flying, like bees, from flower to flower, without lighting but very feldom on a branch of it, and that very (lightly. Thefe birds are of the greateft beauty imaginable ; for if they were made of polifhed gold, they could not fhine brighter: they have a green mingled with this gold colour. The males are diftinguifhed from the females, in that they have on the head a lively orange co- lour, which is like fire. Thofe on the other fide of the Cordillera are yet more beautiful, becaufe their tail is alfo of the colour of their head ; and though they have fo little a body, their tail is a foot long, and two inches broad. There is likewife a very odd bird, to which the Spaniards have given the name of Wood-Pecker ; becaufe though they are but Wood- Pec- little, they have fo ftrong and fharp a bill, ker. that they form their nefts with it in the trees, forming a hollow place fit for them as exactly, as if they had an inftrument to do it. Of thefe I have feen but few ; but there are great numbers of a kind of birds,, called g6 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovalle. called Condores, which are as white as er- 1646. m \ n , and of their skins they make muffs, v * r V > "-' it being of a very foft touch, and extream warm ; but the bellies of the buzzards are much more fo, being admirable to make ftomachers to cover the pit of the ftomach, and help digeftion. I have not feen fuch variety of birds on the other fide of the Cordillera ; and the caufe, I believe, is the drynefs of the land, and the want of that fhelter of woods and groves which are on Chile fide ; but in thofe plains, called the Pampas, there are Fran- Francolins.^/m to be found, which are a fort of wild hens, and as big •, but much better meat, and of a higher relifh. There are likewife Oftriches. Oftriches, who are a mighty bird, and very numerous there. They often find their nefts, and in them fuch a quantity of eggs, as one neft will feed a great company ; one of them alone being beaten and fry'd, makes a pancake big enough to dine feve- ral people : their feathers are employ'd for umbrellos to keep off the fun, and other good ufes. variety of 'Tis a pleafant fight to fee the taking of diverfwns tne Francolins : the Indian, with a firing 'Lwkin" S ' ma d e at one enc * i nto a running knot or Sec noofe, at the other having a little piece of fharp cane fattened to it, goes out to find them, which when he has done, he draws gently near, fo as not to fright his game s when he is at a due diftance, he begins to go round the bird, making with the cane feveral circles over his head. The Franco- lin is of its own nature a very fearful bird, and fimple, and dares not rife, becaufe he thinks he is encompafied round, but goes into the middle of the circle •, where the Indian leflening ftill his rounds, follows it, fo that at laft it fquats down upon the ground, and lets the Indian put the noofe over its head ; which when he has done, touching it on the wing with the fharp end of the cane, the bird flies up, and draws the noofe clofe, and fo is catch'd like the fifhes by an angling-rod. 'Tis not fo eafy to catch the Oftriches ; for though they do not fly, yet they have fuch large wings, that though a greyhound be very fwift, if the bird has law of him, he will hardly overtake him ; but if by chance he comes up with him by furprize, or otherwife, 'tis wonderful to fee the art the Oftrich ufes to avoid his teeth ; for when the dog is juft going to feize, the Of- trich lets down one of his wings, and fixes it to the ground, covering with it its whole body : the greyhound thinking he has him fure, takes hold with open mouth ; but he fills it only with feathers, and is cheated ; for immediately the Oftrich, before the dog can clear his mouth, fets a running, and gets a good length before him ; and often efcapes, if the greyhound does not make extraordinary haft to overtake it. This is a very diverting fport ; but that which is ufed in Chile with Faulcons is much more fo : not to fly partridges, for that is a known fport every where ; but with an- other fort of bird, which the Indians call §>uulteu, from the found of its note when it fings, which founds fo. Thefe are as big as hens, and have very large wings, and upon their wings they have, in the joining place, provided by nature for their defence, certain fharp points. The Spaniards call thefe birds Friers, either becaufe they al- ways go two and two, or three and three, or becaufe the colour and order of their fea- thers is fo, that one would really think they have a hood and a frock. For this fport 'tis not enough to have one Faulcon,b\xt there muft be two, and thofe very well taught, and dexterous to affift one another. There ufes to be very good company to fee the engagement, as we may call it ; for it is worth feeing. Com- ing then to the place that thefe birds haunt, which is generally fome meadow or watery ground, (for that they never forfake, their laft defence being in the water, as foort as they are fprung,) one at a time, the fportf- man flies one Faulcon at them, who, as if he minded not his game, endeavours to get as high as he can, and get the wind of his prey, who, at the fame time, does the fame thing, and contends for place with his ene- my ; fo that they both get almoft out of fight ; but at laft the Faulcon having the bet- ter wing prevails. When he has got advan- tage enough over him, he comes down up- on him like lightening -, but the Quulteu defends himfelf, either by avoiding the blow, or by oppofing the armed points of his wings ; upon which often the unwary hawk is wounded in the breaft. When the fportfman fees the engagement laft too long, fearing his hawk may tire, or be balked before the victory declares for him, loofes his other Faulcon to help the firft, who be- ing frefh, foon joins his companion, and both together fall upon theQuulteu, but not at the fame time, left they friould hinder one another : one gives him a blow, and then the other another ; and fo, though he make a good defence, he is forced to yield, which he does, by making a way for the wa- ter, where he has his laft retreat to defend his life : here he expects his enemies upon his back, with the points of his armed wings turned towards them : the Faulcon defpifing the danger, comes down with all his force, and feizing her with one foot, tears her to pieces ; but 'tis not without receiving fometimes dangerous wounds. The victory does not always coft fo dear ; for that is according to the ftrength of the con- tenders. LiHAP. 20. Kingdom of CHILE. 37 tenders. I omit the mooting of wild-fowl in the fens and waters, which is neverthelefs very entertaining, as are likewife the In- dians ways with nets, noofes, arrows, night- lights ; nay, the manner of catching the Faulcom themfelves is as diverting: 'tis done with fine nets, in which they involve them, Ovall e> that they may not hurt their wings. CrsrLj This is fufficient about the birds •, and *^ fince we are in the region of the air, fo near heaven, let us fay fomething of it before we come down to the earth again. CHAP. XX. Of the Heaven, and Stars j which are proper to the Kingdom and Region of Chile. V I s I S the common opinion of all thofe 1 J_ that have feen and dwelled in Chile, that its foil and heaven, if they have their equal, have not their fuperior in the world ; and though fome fay the ftars of the artick pole are larger than thofe of the antarlick, yet as to their brightnefs and beauty, and the light they give, and as to their numbers, with the clearnefs of the heavens where they are, there is none but mull own the advantage on the fide of the antartick. We may give, as a natural rea- fon of this, the temper of the climate, both as to air and earth ; for though there are in it fo many rivers, as we have obferved, yet they being rapid, and fwift in their courfe, do not caufe overmuch humidity by their flay, but afford only what is necefTa- ry for its fertility ; and, of the two ex- treams, the country is rather dry than moift, particularly as far as thirty four or thirty five degrees, as is manifeftly made out by two experiments : firft, by the facility with which all wounds are cured, which ufe to be much longer in wet countries ; and, fe- condly, 'tis proved from the habitations and houfes, where the befl apartments are repu- ted to be on the firft floor, they being look- ed upon in fummer for cooleft, and in win- ter for warmeft ; and, though they are wa- tered every day in the year, and the floors moft commonly but of earth, not at all up- on vaults, yet they are never unhealthy ; and there is no need of board -flooring or mats, let the winter be never fo fharp. This is a convincing argument, that the country inclines to drynefs rather than to humidity ; from whence it follows, that the fun raifes fewer vapours ; and therefore the air being clearer, the brightnefs of the ftars is more confpicuous ; and for this reafon the fun fets and rifes fo glorious, cafting out refplendent beams of light, which is not fo on the other fide of the Cordillera ; for there I have feen the fun pretty high, and its whole body vi- fible, and yet no ways dazzling, the vapours of the earth taking away the radiant beauty of its beams. The experience of this is yet more ad- mirable to thofe who fail from/Vra for Chile ; for though they keep out a great way from land, yet they know prefently by the hori- zon when they come to the heighth of Chile •, for they begin to fee it all difengaged from clouds and ferene, gilded and glorious, and its beauty increafing upon them every day, as they gain more heighth towards the pole. On the contrary, when they fail for the line from Chile, the nearer they grow to the tropick, that light and fplen- dor grows duller and duller ; fo that in my voyage for Panama, I faw all the ho- rizon muddy, fad, and clouded, which con- tinued till I got to the Havana ; where be- ing in eighteen degrees north latitude, the horizon cleared up and grew every day bet- ter and better, till we got to Spain. So much for the clearnefs and beauty of the heavens and ftars, which may be con- firmed by all thofe who have feen the place ; but 'tis not fo of the bignefs of the ftars. The aftrologers pretend, That the contem- plation of them, and their meafure, be- longs entirely to their art, as underftand- ing beft the difpofition of the celeftial fphere •, but, in my judgment, they who can beft fpeak of this matter, are thofe who have feen both poles, as is well obferved by John and Theodore de Brye, in the eighth and ninth part of their twelve cu- rious books, where they relate variety of hiftories, obfervations, and voyages, which have been in the North and South America, as far as the S freights of Magellan. They report then the opinions of learned men, who, in failing on the South Sea, obferved what I fhall here produce, tranflated faith- fully from their elegant Latin into our vul- gar tongue, in thefe words : The learned of our nation, who have fail- 1?. f"' ed on the South Sea, do relate to us many de Q rye things of that sky, and its ftars, as well of their number, as beauty and bignefs ; and my opinion is, that the ftars we fee here, are no ways preferrable to the meridianal ones ; but rather do affirm, without difpute, that thofe ftars which are near the antartick pole are more in number, and brighter and big- ger. He adds, befides, fpeaking of the ftars of the conftellation of the Cruzero, that their fplendors and beauty is extraordinary, Vol. III. L and 38 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. OvALLE.and that the Via Laclea, or Milky-Way, 1646. ; s muc h brighter in thefe parts. This is !**~ s f* Kj all from thofe authors. The four- Peter Theodore, a moft skilful pilot and teen conflel- aftronomer, relates in particular the ftars of of'theHe- t ^ iat hemifphere, and the fourteen figures or mifphere oyconftellations they make. The firft is the Chile. Cameleon, which contains ten ftars ; the fecond is the Indian Afpick, made up of four ftars ; the third is tht Flying-Fifi, which is made up of feven •, the fourth, called the Fijh Dorado, is compofed of five ; the fifth is called the Hydra, and is of fifteen ; the bird Toncan, which is the fixth, has eight ftars ; and the Phcenix, which is the feventh, has four- teen j the Crane has thirteen, which is the eighth •, in Noah's Dove, which is the ninth, there appear eleven ; the Indian Sagittary, which is the tenth, has twelve -, the Pea- cock, which is the eleventh is compofed of fixteen •, the Bird of Paradife, otherwife cal- led Maaucodiata, has twelve •, the thir- teenth is the "Triangle, and contains five ; and the laft is the Cruzero, in which are. four, which make a crofs, with a little one clofe by it, which makes the foot of the crofs. And though this Cruzero is the guide of thofe who fail in the South Sea, as the Cynofura is to thofe who navigate the North Sea, yet it is not immediately at the pole, but thirty degrees from it -, but there being no ftars of that bignefs near Chap. 21 Kingdom of CHILE. 39 it, it is made ufe of for that effe<5b, but not for the needle ; for that in either fea, whe- ther fouth or north latitude, always turns to the north ; though when one is in the South Sea, the whole globe of the earth, or the belt part of it, is between them and the north, according to the circle that the Cruzero makes. The fix'd point of the pole feems to be between two, as it were, great clouds, though they are not fuch, but cluftersof ftars, not well diftinguifhable, fuch as compofe the Via Latlea ; and they are always fixed, without ftirring ; and when the heavens are clear, they are brighter, and Ovalle better feen. There are other ftars nearer /fj^L, thefe clouds than the Cruzero ; but not be- ^"v^ ing fo big, there is little notice taken of them, but only of the Cruzero ftars, which are indeed very beautiful, and fhine with great livelinefs. I fuppofe that thofe who have not feen them in their own place and fituation, would be glad to fee a draught of them ; which therefore I have placed in the foregoing page, reprefenting them as they are feen there. CHAP. XXI. Of the Animals , as well proper, as new Comers to the Kingdom of Chile . and alfo of the Bezoar-Stones. TILL the Spaniards came to thefe American parts, there never had been feen in them either cows, horfes, fheep, hogs, houfe-cats, nor rabbits tame or wild : nor dogs, except thofe called cur-dogs •, but no hounds, greyhounds, nor other dogs for game, either by land or water •, no maf- tiffs, nor little dogs, which we call lap- dogs •, no goats, nor affes : but as foon as the Spaniards were fettled in Chile, and found the land fo proper for the breed of cattle and flocks, they nave increas'd them to a degree of fuperfluity ; fo that there is not only enough for the fupport of human life, but alfo for thofe animals who are car- •nivorous ; for, as we have feen above, in the flaughtering time, much flefh lies wafte in the fields, fo that 'tis neceffary to burn it, and throw it into lakes and rivers, to hin- der its corrupting the air. That which in other parts is call'd a calamity and defola- tion of the country, which is a murrain among cattle, in Chile is thought a neceffa- ry purge of the too great abundance of it. This mayfeem a paradox ; but yet is found- ed upon experience, becaufe the cattle in- creasing as it does, and the land being fo good, that it fattens them to a wonderful degree, (there being often taken out of one cow a hundred and fifty pounds weight of tallow, each pound of fixteen ounces, J there is enough to do to get a vent for it. The fame may be faid of the hides •, for though Peru, where the beft part of the consump- tion is made, is fo great, yet fuch is the product of Chile, that it wants another Peru to confume it •, for this reafon 'tis a gain to lofe the increafe of the cattle, for then the profit is more, with lefs trouble and coft of fervants. In the beginning of the fettlement in Chile, Don Antonio de Her- rera fays, That horfes were commonly fold for a thoufand pieces of eight a horfe ; and Gareilaffo fays, That at firft a horfe did not ufe to be fold in Peru at all, except upon the death of the owner, or upon his returning to Spain ; and in that cafe they were fold for four, five, or fix thoufand pieces of eh ht a horfe. He fays, he hi.n- ielf knew a foldier who had an exeellent horfe, and that a negro going one day by with him in his hand, a gentleman, who faw them, fent to oiTer the foldier ten thou- fand pieces of eight for the horfe and ne- gro, which he refufed widi contempt : but fince that time horfes have multiplied fo, that there being not people enough to feed and tend them, they are fallen extremely. The cows too have increafed fo as to cover the fields •, and 'tis a wonderful thing to fee in thofe great plains of Tucuman and Buenos Aires vaft herds of them feeding, without any other mafter than the firft that will take them, if he can. I have feen in Chile, in the territory of St. J ago, horfe« already drefs'd for war, fold for two crowns a-piece, to fupply the army, and yet for fhape, courage, and good qualities, they yield to no Neapolitan horfe I ever faw ; no, nor to the Andaluzes, from whom they are defcended ; for they have had no rea- fon to degenerate in fo good a land. The cows too, which were at firft out of all price, I have feen fold for a crown a-piece, and the calves for half a crown : the fheep, fuch as I have feen bought in flocks for Cuyo and Tucuman, have been fold for three pence, or three half-pence a-piece. Theodore and John de Brye, do mention fome author, who fays, That rats were like- wife ftrangers to Chile, and were carried thither by an Antwerp ftiip that paffed the Str eights of Magellan : they muft not mean the ordinary houfe-rats and mice, but thole great ones which have a large tail, and are about a foot long : they are called Pe- Pericotes, ricotes, and are very mifchievous. This* < lar g e f° ri Ihip, without doubt, took port in foms of Oj we Mature ana rroperties oj iu* £>00K 1. OvALLE.of thofe of Chile, where it left thefe ani- 1646. ma i Sj fo prejudicial and hard to deftroy ; ^V^ for they refift the cats, and 'tis a ftout one that can kill them. But it is a wonderful thing to obferve, that though in fea-towns the magazines, fhops, and warehoufes, are full of them, yet they never go further into the land, which they might eafily do, by fo much carriage as the commerce of thofe parts requires. I believe the air of the Cordillera does not agree with them, and fo may have killed thofe which have been car- ried by chance with goods ; for I do not remember I ever faw one in St. J ago, nor in any town far from the fea-fide. Sheep, Among the animals that are proper to Chile, the firft may be reckoned thofe which are called the fheep of that country : they are of the fhape of camels, not fo big, nor vaft, and without the bunch that camels have : they are white, black, brown, and fome are afh-coloured. The authors above cited fay, That anciently they ferved to plow the land in fome parts, before there were oxen in it ; nay, in the relation of George Splberg and his fleet, 'tis faid, the Dutch palling by the ifland of Mocha, faw the Indians ufe them in that work. They are made ufe of at this time in fome parts, for carriage of wine, wheat, maize, and other provifions ; and I remem- ber to have feen them about thirty years ago ferve to carry water at St. J ago from the river to the houfes, for the ufe of the family ; but now they are not at all em- ployed there in this kind of labour, there being fuch quantities of mules and afTes for all that fervice. Thefe fheep have their upper lip flit, with which they do, as it were, fpit at thofe who vex them ; and the children, who ufe to do it, when they fee them ready to fpit, run away ; for they know, and 'tis a common truth, that where- ever their fpitting falls, it caufes a fcab ; and having a very long neck, about three foot long, they ufe thefe defenfive arms the better. Their wool is extreamly valued ; for of it are woven cloaks, or mantles, fo fine, that they look like camlet : they govern them by a kind of bridle, which they put through holes in their ears, and fo by pul- ling the reins, turn them which way they will : they kneel down to be loaded, and when the loading is well fitted and faftened, they rife and carry it very gravely. Pegues, a There are likewife natural to that coun- fmall /ort try a fort of little rabbits, called by the In- cfwildmb- d\ am Pegues, which they eat with much pleafure : they are wild. The taking of them is very good fport : they carry wa- ter in great tubs to their holes ; and though they are very deep, and have fecret iffiies and correfpondencies with each other under ground, to avoid being purfued by the as hunters or their dogs, yet the water over- comes them ; and while they fly from it, the Indians watch for them at their other hole^ and with their dogs take them they come out to avoid the water. There are another fort of .little rabbits, smaUtams which are like thefe, but they are tame, and rabbits, the Indians call them Cuyes, which are alfoSf^ very good meat : they are of pretty colours, ayeS ' and fpotted : they are very common every where. The fquirrels are not fo •, and know they are to be found any Chile, but in the valley of Guafco grey, or afh-colour, and their I do not Squirrels: where in they are skins are bits. mightily valued for furs, for their warmth and finenefs of the touch. The animals called Guanacos, Chamois, WiU gouts. or wild goats, are very like thefe country fheep, as well in their fhape as motions i but they are of a different colour ; for they are red, of a clear colour : they never can be tam'd, but go in flocks, feeding in the fields j and 'tis as much as a very fwift horfe can do to overtake them running-, and if they have the leaft ftart of them, they feem to play with them ; for by an eafy gallop, they make the horfe ftrain ; in which they are much help'd by their long legs, for by them they gain more ground at every reach : yet 'tis very eafy to catch the young-ones, or thofe who are not us'd to be hunted ; be- caufe being fo tall, and their bones, becaufe of their youth, not well knit, they are ea- fily tir'd ; fo that by following a flock of them on horfeback with dogs, (and they go three or four hundred in a flock,) the young- ones are fbre'd to lag behind, and fome are kill'd by the dogs, fome are knock'd on the head with a ftick by the hunter. I have feen them bring thus three or four dead at a time. And this is not only a pleafant, but a ufeful fport ; for the flefh of thefe young- ones is like kid's flefh, and is eaten frefh ; but that of the old-ones is not fb, but dried and fmoak'd : 'tis the beft of that kind in the world. Thefe creatures breed, in a bag they have the beuw under the belly, the bezoar-flones, which/"""' are fo valued againff. poiibn and malignant fevers, good to rejoice the heart, and other admirable effects. The matter out of which they are made, are herbs of which thefe animals eat to of any thing they ail, and preferve them- felves from the poifon of any venomous creature, as ferpents, or poifonous plants, and other accidents. Thefe Hones are found in the oldeft gua- nacos ; and the reafon is, that their natural heat not being altogether fo ftrong as the heat of the young-ones, they cannot convert into their fubftance all the humour of the herb they take to remedy their indifpofition ; and great virtue, :ure themfelves Chap. 22. Kingdom of C H I L E. 4* and fo nature has provided, that what re- mains may be depofited in that bag, and be made a ftone to cure in men the fame infirmities: according to this notion one may obferve, that the ftone is compos'd of feveral coats, fome thicker, and fome thin- ner, according to the quantity of matter that is gathered together at each time, juft as a wax candle is made by feveral coats given at feveral times to form its bignefs. 'Tis likewife a thing well experienced, that in thofe countries, where there are moft vipers, and other poifonous animals, thefe ftones are moft plentiful ; and the caufe is manifeft, becaufe thefe animals, and the deer-kind, do beat fo much ground for their livelihood, they are more exposM to venomous creatures, which, when trod upon, wound them forely, and they run naturally to their remedy in thefe herbs ; and as they do this more frequently in thofe parts where they receive moft damage, by confequence there are more of thefe ftones engender 'd. From hence it happens, that in thofe parts of Cuyo, there is a greater quantity of thefe bezoar-ftones to be had, than in that which we call properly Chile ; for there are many vipers and poifonous creatures, of which Chile is very free, as we have fa id ; and yet there are taken fome ftones here, but the greateft part come from Cuyo ; to which likewife it is of fome confideration, that there are bred more guanacos and flags than in Chile ; for that country being not fo populous, and having fuch vaft plains, thefe animals have room enough for food and for increaft ; but it is not fo towards the fea-fide of Chile, for that being very populous, and full of cattle and flocks, there is no room for the wild ones, except upon the edges of the Cordillera, from whence they come down into the plains fometimes. The bignefs of thefe ftones is in propor- tion to the animal that breeds them ; the moft certain rule is, that if they are little, there are many in the bag, and fewer ifOvALLE. large -, and fometimes, when very large, 1646. there is but one. I carried with me to Italy v " -r V , V. one that weighed thirty two ounces ; and yet that was not it which made it the moft valuable, but its virtues and fhape, for it was a perfect oval, as if it had been turn'd by a turner : the Indian who found it had feventy pieces of eight for it ; becaufe when a great ftone is found, it is not fold by weight, but according to the eftimation of the owner, and the bigger the dearer. The virtue of thefe bezoar-ftones is very well known and experienced ; and people of quality take them, not only in the time of their ficknefs, but alfo in health, to pre- ferveit: the way ofufing them is to put them whole into the vefiel that holds either the wine or water, or into the glafs out of which one drinks, and the longer theyftay in, the more virtue they communicate. And if a perfon be not much indifpofed, there is no need of ufing them any other way ; but if any one mould be attack'd by any diftemper of confequence, and be fick at heart, or be affected with melan- choly fits, it would have more virtue to grate a little of the ftone to powder, and drink it : whatfoever way 'tis taken, it comforts the heart, purifies the blood ; and the ufing of it is look'd upon as a prefer- vative againft all infirmities. There are alfo bred in the Pampas, or the plains of Cuyo, many hares ; and one Hares] fort, call'd Chirichinchos, whofe flefh taftes like that of fucking pigs. But the greateft increafers are the Guanacos, and the deer. It has been faid already, that in Chile there are but few, for the reafons alledged ; but there are great quantity of wild cows and (MJeew. wild mares, which came at firft from (bmewtj mtirt ,, which went aftray, by the negligence of the owners ; and being once in thofe moun- tains, they have increafed fo wonderfully, that they are become a game, and many go to kill them, or take them for profit. CHAP. XXII. Of the Trees growing in Chile. AMongft other obligations which the land of America has to Spain, one is the having enrich'd it with fo many noble plants, trees, and feeds, which it wanted •, for before the Spaniards conquer'd it, there were not in all America either vines, fig- trees, olive-trees, apple-trees, melicotoons, peaches, auberges, quinces, pears, pome- granates, cherries, apricots, plumbs, oran- ges, lemons, citrons, nor almonds. As for feeds, there was neither wheat, barley, nor oats, anifeed, coriander- feed, cumin, Vol. III. nor oreganum, linfeed, flax, peafe, beans, nor cabbage, lettice, radifhes, cardoons, chicory, or indive, berenguenas, gourels, melons, cucumbers, parfley, garlick, or onion. But inftead of thefe trees, fruits, and plants, the author of nature had pro- vided them with others of great ufe and good relifh, fuch as maize all over Ame- rica : Frifoles, Las Papas el Madi, Los Ca- pallos, and fome others, are proper only to Peru, and the land within the tropicks ; the Camotes, Guayabas, Mammeyes, Plan- M tanoS) 4 2 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book I. Ovallk. lanos, Zipitapotes, Anones, Nifperos, Aqua- 1646. cates, Pinnas, Guanabanas, Papayas, Pi- ^^Y^S tabayas, and many others, which, though highly commended, do not generally come up to the relifh of the European fruits. And the bread and wine has been a fingular addition to them, fuch as the Indians va- lue more than all their product, and parti- cularly the wine, which is their chief de- light; as for bread they value it, but not fo much. Though America is oblig'd to Europe for all this addition, yet Chile much more, as having the greateft advantage by it, and with more plenty than any other part of that new world ; for though all that we have nam'd of European plants are to be found lbmewhere, yet not all everywhere ; for in fome there grows corn, and not wine ; in others both thofe, and not oil ; in others neither corn, wine, nor oil, but other fruit-trees. The fame thing may be faid of the animals to eat ; fome have beef, others mutton, others pork, which on the continent is a delicacy, and is given to the fick ; fo that running over all America, we may find that this communication of new creatures has reach'd fome parts for one thing, and fome for another. But as for the kingdom of Chile, it may be faid to have been totally oblig'd and enrich'd •, for all the trees, feeds, plants, and all the ani- mals, &c. of Europe, are to be found there, and that almoft in every part of it, for 'tis rare to fee any thing take in one place, and not in another ; but if it does they may eafily have it from their neigh- bours, if it be not fo good, or not at all with them. In the third chapter of this book, we have already mentioned how all thefe Eu- ropean fruits and feeds take in Chile, but we can never enough dilate upon that fub- ject : It will hardly be believed by moft people, particularly by thofe who never having been out of their own country, are fo in love with it, as not to imagine there can be any equal to it, much lefs exceed it ; and we relating things fo diftant, of which we cannot bring ocular witnefles, we are the more liable to contradiction •, but fince we are writing a hiftory, we muft fpeak the truth as we know it, and it really is. Trees. Some trees do not exceed in bignefs thofe of Europe of the fame kind, as cherry-trees, quince-trees, almond, peach, and pome- granate-trees, olive, orange, lemon, and citron-trees, melicotoons, which laft in 2a- cuman are neverthelefs very large, and to that degree, that three or four men fome- times cannot embrace the body of one of thofe trees. I have feen fome apple-trees as big as elm-trees ; the pear-trees are yet bigger, and much more the mulberry-trees, J and walnut-trees, though as to their fruit, it is not fo large as that of Europe, the nuts having the fhell as thick again, and by confequence lefs meat. This is as to the garden-trees brought from Europe. As for the trees natural to that country, they are of two forts, the one is fruit-trees, the other not : of the firft, I find only three kinds of fpecies of thofe, which are like- wife in Europe, which are the avellanos, or hafel-nut, the pine-tree, and the algar- rabos, or cod-tree. Of thofe which are not properly fruit-trees, there are the lau- rel, the oak, the willow, the cyprefs, which are in great abundance, and very large; out of thefe they have boards very fit for boxes and trunks, which are no ways pieced, but of one plank ; the doors and coverings of the churches are alfo of this cyprefs-wood. Thefe trees grow moft commonly in the cyprefs- precipices of the Cordillera, which being "■«• veiy deep, the cypreffes are extream large and tall, for they fhoot up till their tops can be warm'd by the fun-beams ; fo that they are as ftreight as a wax-candle, and of fo fine a fmell and perfume, that though it be fo plentiful, it bears a good price, and a greater in Peru, to which 'tis carried, as well as the cedar, which does not fell fo well, becaufe there are more of them. Thefe cedar-trees are without compari- Cedur-tne. fon bigger, and have larger heads than the cyprefs-trees, and of one of them are made feveral planks ; but more of this when we come to fpeak of the iflands of Chiloe, for there they are larger than in any other part. The colour of the wood is red when it is firft work'd, but in time, and by de- grees, it lofes that lively colour, and comes to be of a kind of walnut-tree colour ; the planks are of the fafhion of cedar planks, not fo fubject to the worm, but more eafy to work. The oak alfo yields very large planks, The Oak. for they thrive exceedingly, and grow very thick ; fome of them are white, and the wood of them is corruptible ; others are red, and incorruptible. The planks from the paragua-xxzz s.vep ar ^ua- the moft in ufe, but lefs valuable. Them*, tree is a handfome branching tree, keeping its leaves green all the year : they are like elms. The moft common wood of all, and that Cinnamon- of which there is moft plenty, which ferves"'^ for the covering of houfes and roofs, is the cinnamon-wood. Thefe are very large trees, of a beautiful afpect; they keep their leaves all the year, and are like that which in Italy they call the laurel royal. The gua-Gtiayac^ yac-tree is bred in the mountain or Cordil- tree, lera, and from thence has its hardnefs and heavinefs, which is fuch, that it is like iron ; and Chap. 22. Kingdom of CHILE. 43 and the balls made of it to play at billiards, are almoft as hard as the ivory ones ; the tree is no large tree, and the heart of the wood is a yellow mix'd with green ; the decoction of it is good for many infirmities. sandal- The fmdal-tree is very odoriferous ; there tree. are great quantities of them in the iflands which are nam'd from Juan Fernandes; 'tis a prefervative againfl the plague, and is us'd by the confeilbrs, and others, who are bound to approach infected people. There are other trees and fhrubs of admirable vir- tue for feveral infirmities, of which the Indians have a particular knowledge, and perform admirable cures with them. The fruit-trees bred in the mountains are many, and of great variety : let us firft treat Palm-tree, of that which indeed carries the palm, not only becaufe of its name, but that its heighth, beauty, and abundance, and that of its moft excellent fruit, challenges the firft place among all the reft. They grow generally upon the moun- tains, and in precipices, fo thick together, that feeing them at a diftance, one would think they were a clump fet by hand ; they are very thick and high, all the body of the tree is naked till the top or firft fprout; its nature is to lofe all its old branches as the new ones come out, by which means the body of the tree rifing free, and difen- cumber'd from fuch boughs as ufe in other trees to grow out of the fides of them, is totally employed in feeding the top, and the fruit which grows within it being, as it were, a pyramid round it, to preferve it by the admirable texture of its leaves and bran- ches which encompafs it. Thefe palm-trees have a wonderful pro- perty, and moft certain, which is, that none of them give their fruit, except they are in fight of each other ; and if it hap- pens that one comes up alone, without a companion, though it thrive to a great largenefs, yet it never bears, except another be planted by it, and this they call the fe- male; and as foon as the female is planted, though never fo little a one, yet the great ones bear, and the fecond in its time, when it is big enough : I have feen the experience of this ; and 'tis a thing well known to all. The fruit of thefe trees is called Cocos, and is like filberds, though bigger by half, and the meat within the fhell is not folid, but hollow, and is, round the edge, about the thicknefs of a crown-piece, and in the reft of the hollow is a kind of milk, or wa- ter, of an excellent relifh; and fo is the flefh of it, which is white, and ferves to preferve the liquor like a viol, which ftays in it till it be imbibed by the Coco, which happens in lbme months -, and then they are not fo good to eat as when they are frefh ; but then they are good to preferve, as al- monds are, and other kernels of that iu-Qvalle. ture. V J^4<5- Antonio de Herrera, and other authors, ^^V > *- / fay, that thefe Cocos are good againfl poi- fon ; and nature feems to fet a value upon it, by the many covers in which it is in- volved ; firft, the kernel is cover'd with a fhell harder than that of the almond, then it has another cover of a green colour, and fometimes yellow, which is woven fo clofe about it, and fo ftrongly, that when it is green, 'tis eafier to break it than to peal it off. The fruit grows clofe to a ftalk, which fometimes will have above a thoufand on it ; and this is environ'd by a great fhell, which grows bigger and bigger with that bunch it contains, till at laft the fruit makes it burft and open into two parts, which are like two boats, each of above half a yard long, and two fpans diameter in the broad- eft place, and the bunch within all of a fine yellow, very beautiful to look on. It hangs on the branches till it be ripe, and then falls to the ground, where it is gather'd, and great provifion is made of it for Peru ; for befides their being made a fweetmeat, the children rid the merchants of them for play-things, it being one of their greateft entertainments. The palm-trees which bear dates, do not feem to be natural to this country, but brought from abroad ; for I never faw them, as others, wild in the fields, but only in gardens. There are other fruit-trees wild, which come in thefields, and are call'd Pengue; they Tbefengue. have a red fruit, fomething bigger and more oval than the filberds ; thefe the Indians eat boil'd with other ingredients. There are alfo trees call'd Magues, which are very TheMague . beautiful and cooling ; the leaves are admi- rable againft a burn ; the fruit is black like a myrtle-berry ; 'tis very well relifh'd, ha- ving a dulcepiquante very agreeable; it blackens the mouth and hands when it is eaten, and for that reafon the more civiliz'd people do not ufe it fo much. There are alfo fruits of which the Indians make their fermented liquors, whofe names and proper- ties I cannot call to mind ; only I know there is great variety of them ; and I can remember one call'd Quelu : the fruit is very fweet and fmall, between red and yellow ; of this they make a drink extra- ordinary fweet. They make another drink of that which they call Iluigan, and the Spaniards Molle ; it is of the fhape and colour like pepper ; the tree on which they grow is but little, but a great bearer: this drink is very agreeable, and coveted even by the greateft ladies. The moft common drink of the Indians is made ofmaiz, which is the ordinary bread and fuftenance of the Indians. Let, 44 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book L The Mur tilla. Ant. it Herrera. Ovalle. Let us end with the tree called murtilla ; 1646. though, if we believe the authors who treat y^C^ of it, it deferves to be ranked in the firft place. Antonio de Herrera fpeaks fo well of this tree in the ninth D«W De Mux ' ill °- los Paxa'ros, nes -> anc * De los Paxaros, in thirty degrees und many latitude •, two more in thirty three and for- worn. t , degrees : there eight fmall ones juft over- againft Vol Paraifo, which are called the iflands of Juan Fernandes ; who dying, left them to die Jefuites. Then follows the ifland Quinquina, which is in the bay of the Conception. Juft over-againft Arauco is the ifland cfc Santla Maria, in the thirty feventh degree ; and in diirty eighth that of La Mocha. Hard by Valdivia, about forty three degrees, comes the archipelago of Chiloe, which is compofed of forty iflands ; and hard by it is the province of Calbuco, in which there are twelve more. Thofe of Los Chonos are as many, in forty five de- grees ; and in fifty degrees are the eighty iflands difcovered by Pedro Sarmiento, asQvALLE. fhall be related hereafter. 1646. The iflands of Chiloe are reputed barren; ^^y^/ but their foil is not really fo, only the ex-V" */ ceflive rains choak the feed, and do not let oe * the corn thrive j fo that they are without wheat, wine, or oil, or any other plants which need much fun. The nature of the climate of this archipelago is fuch, that it rains almoft all the year, fo that only maiz, or other fuch grains can ripen, that do not want fo much fun. The nourifhment or diet of the natives, is moftly of a root cal- led Papas, well known over all die Weft, Indies, of a good nourifhment ; and they grow there bigger than in any other place. They have befides fome maiz, fome fifh, and particularly fhell-fifli, which is excel- lent in thofe feas. They have few fheep, but very good poultry, as well as hogs, and fome beef ; with which, and what be- fides is brought to them from St. J ago, and the Conception, the Spaniards, both of the garrifon and city of Caftro, make a good fhift This city is the capital of the chief ifland ; in which, and in the reft, there is great quantity of honey and wax made. And Herrera and other hiftorians fay, there are mines of gold upon the fhore ; and they remark it as an extraordinary thing, and hardly heard of in any other place. The manufactures of thefe iflands z.rtM*mf«c- the cloathing for the Indians, who have a ture of the kind of veft which they call Macun, and'-t 1 ""^- it is without fleeves, becaufe their arms are naked ; and over this they put a garment called Choni, which ferves for a cloak, and is like that which painters give to the apof- tles in their pictures. They have another commodity from their woods, particularly of the plank they make of a tree, which is a cedar, and of which they have vaft woods, and in them trees of a prodigious fize ; for frier Gregory of Leon, of the order of St. Francis, in his map of Chile, which he de- dicates to the prefident Don L:uis Fernandes Vol. III. N de a.6 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book II. Ovalle. de Cordoua, Senior del Carpio, fays, that * 6 4 6 - fome of thefe trees are fo big that they V-< V^ cannot be hardly encompafled by a rope of fix yards long ; and out of the wood of the boughs there has been made fix hundred planks, of twenty five foot long, and two foot broad ; and that which is confiderable, is, that this plank is not fawed, but cut with axes •, in which there is much more lofs. This author deferves belief, as well from the experience of forty two years that he lived in Chile, as from having been de-. finitor of his order. And what I have heard from the mouth of a colonel, who was both born and bred in that country, will ferve to confirm this ; which is, That if two men on horfeback are on each fide of the tree, when it lies along, they cannot fee one another ; for the body of the trunk hin- ders them. Thefe planks are carried to Chile and Peru ;.and in exchange they bring back pr'ovifions to live on. The iflands of l/les cf Chono are yet poorer than thefe ; becaufe, no. that being nearer the pole, their fummer is fhorter, and their rains more copious, info- much that they drown the earth, and hin- der it from producing. ■ We have little knowledge of any other iflands befides thefe of Chiloe ; becaufe the continent being fo large, and yet not throughly peopled, there has been little oc- cafion of inhabiting any more than fome few of the iflands ; by which means there is but fmall difcovery made of their quali- ties •, though 'tis reafonable to think they re- femble the land over-againft which they lie. Jf! ,. As for the iflands of Juan Fernandes, I Fernandes. w ^ relate what I find writ about them in Theodore and John de Brye, in their relation of the voyage of John Scutten : they fay then, that thefe two iflands are very high land ; the leaft of the two, which is the weftermofl, appeared to them barren, as being covered with wood, and very moun- tainous •, though not landing on it, they could make no judgment of the infide of the ifland. The bigger ifland, which is the eaftermoft, is likewife mountainous, but has great variety of trees, and much grafs, with which are fed great herds of fwine and goats, bred from fome few which were put on fhore by John Fernandes, who began to cultivate thefe iflands as his own ; but he dying, and the Spaniards finding greater advantages upon the continent, they for- fook thofe iflands, which were out of all trade, leaving their flocks of cattle behind them, which now are infinitely multiplied. Fmelfland. They fay befides, that coming to this, which they call the Fine I/land, they found a port very fafe for their fhips, having twenty or thirty fathom depth, the fhore all. fandy and even, with a delicate valley full of trees of all forts, and wild boars, and other ani- c mals feeding in it ; but they could not dif-1 tinguifh them, by reafon of the diftance' they were at. They extol particularly a mofl beautiful fountain, which coming down from high rocks, rowls into the fea by different canals, which form a pleafant profpec~t, and its water is very fweet and agreeable. They law alfo great ltore of feals, and other filh, which they caught in great plenty. In fhort, they were fo in love with this ifland, for the good qualities they difcovered even. at. its. entrance, that they were very unwilling to leave it, though prefled in point of time. I do not doubt, but this is a very plea- fant fituation ; for in its temperature, and other properties, it muft be very like Vol Paraifo and St. Jago, becaufe 'tis almoft in the fame degree weft' ; and without doubt thefe iflands will be peopled in time;, when the' continent grows populous, as fit does everyday, for then people will beleeking new habitations ; but at prefent they only go thither fometimes to fifh, to fend it to Peru, where they have it not fo plentifully. The fame authors, giving an account of the other Dutch fquadron under George Spil- berg, fay, That they came to the ifland of Mocha, and found the north fide of it plain and low, but the fouth full of rocks : they landed ; and the good reception they found from the Indians, is an argument of the fer- tility of the place. Thofe Indians are a noble fort of people, and very good na- tured. When they had refrefhed themfelves. much at their eafe, they made provifion of great flore of fheep, who are very large, and in great plenty there, as likewife of hens, eggs, fruit, and other provifions. They treated the Indians on board, and fhewed them their great guns, and their men in order for fighting : they prefented them alfo with european commodities, fuch as hats, cloaths, axes, and things which they valued. After this, they fet them again on fhore ; and the Indians made figns to them to go back to their fhips, as they did. But they were very differently received in the ifland of Santla Maria, where the vice- admiral landed with fome of his men, 'and were invited by the Indians to eat ; but from the fhips they faw a great army coming down upon them, as they were going to fit down to table : whereupon they made figns to them to retreat to the port ; which they did, and had jufi time to embark. But they likewife carried off about five hundred fheep, and other refrefhments, having found the ifland very fertile and well provided, as well as very temperate, being about thirteen lea- gues fouth-weft from the city of the Concep- /w;;,about thirty feven degrees,and not above three leagues from Arauco ; which makes fome think, that formerly this ifland was faftened Chap. 2. Kingdom of CHILE. 47 fattened to the main land, and that the lea had in length of time made the divifion which now forms the bay of Aranco. There is little to be faid that is particu- lar of all the other iflands to the Streights of Magellan, finceit has not pleafed God to let them be peopled by Spaniards, and fo give an entrance to the gofpel ; by which means the product and nature of them might be known, and many fouls faved which in- habit them. All that we know now of them, is, That in the voyage of Pedro de Sarmiento to Spain, being fent by the viceroy to chaftife Francis Drake, for his boldnefs for infeft- Ovalle. ing thofe coafts ; in his way, on this fide 1646. the Streights of Magellan, he difcovered a ^V^r great archipelago of iflands, which they told to the number of eighty, which he named by feveral names, and took poflef- fion of them in the name of his king. He alfo difcovered more iflands in fifty one de- grees, to which he did the fame. 'Tis known likewife, that in the Streights them- felves there are many iflands, fome of which we fhall mention when we treat of the Streights of Magellan. CHAP. II; Of the Land called Tierra del Fuego. TH E land called Tierra del Fuego, (fo famous in the relations and maps we have of the Streights of Magellan,) has de- ceived many by its name, people believing that it had been given it for fome Volcanos, or burning mountains, or other fubterra- neous fires ; but it is not fo, for this name had no other occafion, than that the firit navigators through the Streights difcovered upon it many fires and great fmoaks, made, as they fuppofed, by the numerous inhabi- tants of it ; and fo they called it the Land of Fire. There arofe likewife another mif- take from its great extent ; for it was jud- ged to be a great continent, of which in time the world was undeceived, as we fhall fee hereafter. situation of This land, called Tierra del Fuego, is Tierra del that which forms the fouth fide of the Fuego. Streights of Magellan, extending itfelf the whole length of the Streights, eaft and weft, above one hundred and thirty leagues. For- merly, before the Streights of St. Vincent, otherwife call'd the Streights of Le Maire, were difcover'd, this land was thought to be joined to fome other great continent of the Terra Auftralis, which was fuppofed to join to New Guinea, or the iflands of Solo- mon ; and Ortelius, in his Geography, is of this opinion ; but upon the difcovery of the other Streights of St. Vincent, that doubt has been clear'd, feveral having gone through them to the South Sea ; and among the reft, two caravels, fet out by the king's command, in the year 161 8. on purpofe to view thefe Streights, which it was faid had been difco- ver'd by James Le Maire, which caravels were commanded by Don Juan de More. 16 1 8. Thefe two vefiels fet out from Lifbon in the month of Oclohcr, 161 8. and being come to the eaft entrance of the Streights of Magellan, they pafTed by it, and run along all that coaft, without finding any entrance, till they came to that of Le Maire, which they went through in lefs than one day's time ; after which they turn'd to the fouth, and afterwards to the weft : they went round all the Tierra del Fuego, and failing north, came to the weft entrance of the Streights of Magellan, into which they enter'd, and fail'd through them to the North Sea. Ha- ving thus made a circle clear round the Ti- erra del Fuego, they proved it demonftra- tively to be an ifland feparate from all other land. The fame was done by Sir Richard Haukins, an Englijh gentleman, who having pafs'd the St'reigbt of Le Maire, fail'd for five and forty days to the fouth, without finding any land contiguous to the Tierra. del Fuego, but many iflands, as is related by Antonio de Her r era, Chap. ij. of the defcription of the Weft-Indies. The fame has been confirm'd by feveral, who being driven by ftorms from their intended courfe, have been forc'd to run towards the fouth pole j amongft the reft by Francis Drake, who having pafs'd the Streights of Magellan, the fixth of September, 1572. and being got on the feventh, a degree from the Streights, was carried by a ftorm two hundred leagues to the fouth ; and coming to an anchor in fome of thofe iflands, he there found that the fun being eight degrees from the tro- pick of Capricorn, the days were fo long, that there was not above two hours night ; from whence he inferr'd, that when the fun came to the tropick, there muft be a per- petual day of twenty four hours. The fame was experimented about two year ago by the fleet of general Henry Brum ; which ha- ving pafs'd the Streights in April, were by the force of ill weather carried into feventy two degrees, and eaft anchor at the ifland of St. Bernard, to which they gave the name of Barnevelt ; and it being about the entrance of winter, the days were not above .: three hours long, fo that they expecled they ! would ftill fhorten till June, when the fun " being furtheft off from that hemifphere, would leave them in a total night ; for this reafon, A r - 48 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IL OvALLE.reafon, and becaufe of the hardnefs of the 1646. W eather, which increas'd every day, they V^V^ durft not winter in that ifland, as they had a mind, but after a fortnight's flay in it, weigh'd anchor, and fail'd for Chile. In which voyage they made but little advance, having always the wind a-head, infomuch that they were a whole month doubling one cape, and loft in the endeavour their 'Tender, in which was the beft part of their provifion. So much for the iflands belonging to the coaft of Chile ; but having alfo mention'd the iflands of Solomon and New Guinea, to which antiently it was thought that the land of Tierra del Fuego was join'd, it will be well to fay fomething of them. The author who writes the beft of them, is Antonio de Herrera, and from him is ta- ken what John and Theodore de Brye fay of them ; which is thus : iflands of The iflands of New Guinea run from New Gui- fomething more than one degree foudi of Dea> the pole antartick, three hundred leagues eaft to the fifth or fixth degree; according to which reckoning, they fall about the Ijlands of \veft of Paita. The iflands of Solomon fall Solomon, to the weft of Peru, about eight hundred leagues from its coaft, and extend them- felves between the feventh and twelfth de- gree : they are diftant from Luna about fifteen hundred leagues : they are many, of agoodfize: there are eighteen principal ones, which are ibme three hundred, fome two hundred, fome one hundred, fome fif- ty leagues, and lefs in compafs. Between them and Peru, inclining to the land of Chile, there is another call'd the ifland of IJU of St. Paul, about the latitude of fifteen cle- St. Paul, grees, and about feven hundred leagues from the terra fir ma. The fleet of William Scowten having; run along the coaft of Chile in the year 1615. ^6ij. or 1 61 6. from the Streights of Magellan, took their courfe to the weft, when they were about the latitude of eighteen degrees, to try to find out fome new ifland, and found one in fifteen degrees ; which, according to their computation, was diftant from the coafts of Peru about nine hundred leagues. After this they diicover'd two more, which they call'd the Cocoa iflands, by reafon of^,. Cocoa the great plenty of that fruit that was ijlumh. there, that the inhabitants did ufe to drink the fweet liquor that was bred within the Cocoas, but when it was at an end, they made a fhift with fait water ; to which, being accufton'd from their youth, it did not hurt them. They fay more, that the inhabitants go naked, though not quite; and that their way of being civil and falu- ting, is to give diemfelves blows upon their temples, which is the fame as with us the pulling off the hat or cap. At firft they laughed at the fire-arms, till they few one fall much wounded, which undeceiv'd them, and convinced them that it was not only noife which proceeded from thofearms. Thefe iflands are diftant from Peru, 1510 German leagues, which are longer than the Spanifi leagues, though not fo long as the Indian ones. There were found alfo other iflands in the latitude of twenty nine de- grees, which perhaps were thofe which at firft they call'd the iflands of Solomon. Others fay, that there are others more to the weft, oppofite to Chile. Whofoever is curious enough to know the particulars of all thofe iflands, their temperature, inha- bitants, their good and ill qualities, may find them in the above-cited authors, who treat of them more at large ; for my in- tention, 'tis enough to fay what I have re- ported. CHAP. III. Of the two Streights of Magellan and St. Vincent. TH E Streight of Magellan receiv'd its name from that man, who eternized his own, by being the firft who difcover'd and pafs'd it. This was that famous Por- tuguese captain, Hernando de Magellanes, whole intrepid foul going almoft beyond the true limits of all ordinary valour, feems to have border'd upon temerity and rafh- nefs, by engaging himfelf to difcover a pafTage altogether unknown, and fo narrow, that it was very dangerous for fhips, being befides in the fifty fourth degree, which makes it very cold. This bold captain begun to enter the Streight by the North Sea the twenty feventh of November, in the year 1520. and in twenty days, which was a happy pafTage, he enter'd the South Sea ; c from thence he fail'd to the Philippine iflands, where he was kill'd in one of thofe iflands called Matan, to which he went from anodier called Zebu, to fight againft the king of the firft, becaufe he refufed to fub- jecl: himfelf to one of thofe kings who had turn'd chriftian; engaging him with more courage than condudt, and fo he perifh'd by the great number of his adverfaries. His death was very much lamented, and he much mifs'd in the difcoveries of that new world ; for, without doubt, if he had lived longer, he would have made great difcoveries in the terra firma and iflands. To give a more certain account of this Streight of Magellan, I will make ufe of the memoirs of thofe who have pafs'd it, and left Chap. 3. Kingdom of C H I L E. 49 left relations of it, who, as eye-witneffes, were lefs fubjedt to miftake. And firft I will give thofe fworn relations given in Cajlilla by thofe who fet fail from the Co- mma, by the emperor Charles the fifth's order, in fix fhips under the command of Fray Garcia Jofre de Loayfa, a knight of Malta, and born at Civedad Real. They fay in their report, That the faid Streight is a hundred leagues in length, from the cape of the Eleven Thoufand Virgins, which is at the entrance of the North Sea to the Cape of Defire, which is at the en- trance of the South Sea ; and they fay more, that they found in the Streight three great bays, of about feven leagues wide from land to land, but the entrances of them are not much more than half a league over ; the firft is about a league deep •, the fecond about two leagues ; the third, they fay, is encompafs'd with mountains of fuch a heighth, that they feem to be in compe- tition with the ftars, and the fun does not enter within them in the whole year ; which was the caufe of their enduring there an extream cold ; for it fnows almoft conti- nually, and the fnow never melting by the fun-beams, it looked with a kind of bleuifti colour. They fay, moreover, that the nights were twenty hours long ; they met with good water, and trees of feveral forts, among which many cinnamon-trees; and that the leaves and boughs of the trees, though they appear'd green, yet burnt in the fire as if they were dry ; that they found many good fifhing-places, and faw many whales, (fome mermaids,) many of the tunny-fifti, fharks, cods, great ftore of pilchards and anchovies, very great oyfters, and other fhell-fifh. That there were alfo very good harbours, with fifteen fathom water ; and in the S freights itfelf above five hundred fathom, and no where any fands or ftioals. They obferv'd feveral pleafant rivers and ftreams, and faw that the tides of both feas came each of them above fifty leagues up the Streight, and meet about the middle of it with a prodigious noife and formidable fhock. Though a Portuguefe captain, who had pafs'd this Streight, told me, That thefe tides were only fome high floods, which laft a month, or thereabouts, as the winds blow •, which makes the fea fometimes rife to a great heighth, and at other times fall as much, leaving the fhoar dry for a gr^at way ; and the ebbing is fometimes fo faft, that fhips are left dry, as this captai' .'s fhip was, fo that he was forc'd to dig nis way out to get into deep- er water. They found feveral other entran- ces in this Streight ; but for want of provi- fion they could not ftay to fearch them : they loft one fhip off the Virgins Cape; and they had fcarce enter'd the Streights, Vol. III. when a ftorm blew them back to the river Ov all e. of St. Ildefonfo, and to the port of Santla J^ 6 - Croce, where they found ferpents of various ^V^. colours, and ftones that were good for ftanching of blood ; all this may be feen in Antonio de Herrera, in the fecond tome, Decade 3. and the ninth book, Fol. 335. and it does not difagree with the other re- lation of Magellan's voyage, though this makes the ftreighteft part yet lefs, allow- ing it not above a mufquet-fhot over, and from one entrance to another it reckons a hundred leagues, the land on both fides being very rich and beautiful. This is, in fhort, the relation given in to the king. There are fome other authors, who neither make the Streight fo long, nor do they make the narroweft part fo ftreight ; for fome allow but fourfcore and ten leagues, or lefs, to its length ; but yet 'tis proba- ble, that the firft give the moft credible account, becaufe they examin'd it with fuch care and punctuality, in order to in- form his majefty. All agree in one thing, which is, in the good qualities of the fea, land, and iflands of the Streight, as well as of the fhoar on both fides, and of the good parts that are in it, and of fome particular- ly fo fecure, that the fhips rid in them without being fattened, being as fafe as if they had been in a box. Among the reft the Hollanders celebrate much the twenty fifth port, call'd the Fa- mous ; and it is fo much fo, that George Spilberg, their general, gave it that name, for the excellent reception they found there : they faw the whole earth about cover'd with various fruits of various colours, and of excellent tafte. To delight them the more, there was a fine brook of excellent water that fell from a high rock, and wa- ter'd all the valley entering into the port ; and befides thefe five and twenty ports or harbours, there were many others in the re- maining part of the Streight, which might be a third of it, all which were very remark- able. There is a harbour call'd De la Pimienta, Harbour or the Pepper Harbour, for the fake of fome Dc la Pl " trees they found in it, whofe barks had a moft aromatick fmell, and a tafte of pep- per, fomething more burning and quick than that of the Eajl-hidies. When the Nodales pafs'd this way, they gather'd a great deal of this bark ; and authors fay, that when they brought it to Seville, it was fo valued there, that it was fold for fixteen ryals, or two crowns a pound. The fame authors report, that they found cinnamon-trees, which bore good cinna- mon; and in the fecond narrow pafiage fome odiers, that bear a fort of black fruit, of moft excellent tafte and favour. In other places they faw moft beautiful w<$xls O and mient2. co Of the Nature and Properties of the Book II OvALLE.and groves, pleafant plains, agreeable 1646. va lleys, and intervals. of great beauty, V- 'Y X - / w ith high mountains •, fome cover'd with fnow, from whence there defcended lovely ftreams ; others all cloathed with greens of various forts-, and in them they defcried many animals going to and fro, fuch as deer, oftriches, and others, as alfo great variety of moft beautiful birds of all co- lours ; and among the reft they kill'd one fo large, that meafuring one of its wings, they found it above a yard long •, and they were fo tame that they flew to the fhips, and fufFer'd themfelves to be handled : they found alfo another fort of large birds, which they call'd fea-geefe, every one of which, after they had been plum'd and pull'd, weigh'd eight pounds of Caftile ; and they were fo numerous, that the ground was co- ver'd with them, fo that they kill'd what quantities they pleas'd. They faw another fort of bird, much of the lhape of a pid- geon, all white, only with red bills, and red feet; all which were a great entertainment to them as they fail'd along. They com- mend alfo the harbour, which they call Moft Beautiful, where the city of St. Phi- lip was founded ; there they faw the traces of feveral animals, which us'd to come to drink in thofe chryftal fountains. After the third ftreight place, there is to be feen a moft excellent harbour, call'd the Shell- Harbour, by reafon of the vaft quantities of oyfters and other fhell-fifh that they found there, which fufficed to feed the whole fleet feveral days, carrying away with them a good provifion likewife for their voyage, all owning that they were better than thofe of Europe. There are found in the great canal of the ftreight feveral iflands, which are as efti- mable as the terra firma ; they are generally in the wideft part, where the fea is feven or eight leagues over ; the chief are thofe of jjles of St. St. Lawrence and St. Stephen, otherwife Lawrence called the ifland of Barnevelt. Before they phcn St " Ste ' came to thefe, they found other iflands, Pinguin which they call'd the Pinguin Iflands, for Iflands. the great quantity of that fort of birds that are bred there. There is another, Holy King's call'd the Holy Kings Ifland, which is in a Ifland. river, which enters into the ftreights, and they faw in it many feals. Others of thefe iJlescfSe- iflands are nam'd Sevaldo, from the name valdo. of him that difcover'd them, near which there were ftore of the pinguin birds, and abundance of whales. After having pafs'd the fecond ftreight, there are ftill more iflands, the firft is call'd of the Angels, and i/ks of is full of the birds we have mentioned. The Angels, fecond is nam'd the ifland of the Patagoons, ijle of Pa- or gyants, becaufe they faw there fome of ta g° 0DS > them._ Near the fliell-port there are other "tfj iverjl eight iflands •, and a litde before the en-" trance into the fouth-fea, there are feveral other iflands, which muft be very little, for the ftreights are there very narrow. . Some may defire to know, whether, befides this entrance of the ftreight of Magellan, there are any other, by which fhips may fail from the north-fea to the fouth. Touch- ing which, the relation of George Spilberg fays, that there is one by the cape, which they called Prouvaert. Some Englijh like- wife, who have fail'd that way, are of the fame opinion •, for which they cite father Acofta, of our fociety, in his Oriental Hiftory, tranflated by John-Hugh Lin/cot, Chap. 1 o. in the end ; as may be ken in the already- cited John and Theodore de Brye, who add, that many other authors do agree in this opinion; and that thofe of Spilberg' s fleet, before they came to the ftreight, faw this opening on the north-fide, but they did not dare to go into it, becaufe they had exprefs orders to pafs the ftreight of Ma- gellan ; and befides, that which added to this refolution, was the obfervation they made of the great force with which the waves met each other at this Opening, in- fo much that the fea feem'd to boil. This is all that I have met with in authors about this opinion, which even John and Theodore de Brye look upon as falfe ; be- caufe neither the Spaniards nor Dutch ever faw this fecond canal ; but rather that the whole land of Fit ego is one great continued ifland, which they prove by the relation of the navigation made by the Nodales, who were fent to fearch for the Streight of St. Vincent, and who went round the Tierra del Fuego, without finding any fuch opening, or any other than that of Magellan and St. Vincent ; and yet I am of another opinion, and hold the firft for certain ; and this does not contradict the opinion of Spilberg, who does not fay, that the opening he faw was on the fouth, but on the north fide, towards the land of Chile ; and fo, though the land of Fuego be an ifland, it does not follow that there may not be an entrance on the north fide. But let us leave that to time to make out, and fay fomething of the Streight of St. Vincent, which is the fecond pafTage from the North to the South Sea. CHAP. Chap. 4. Kingdom of CHILE. CHAP. IV. The fame Matter is continued,, and the Vfefulnefs of the Commerce between Chile and the Philippine IJlands is made out. 51 OVALLE. 1646. 1619. yN the year 1619. the king fent, in the X month of Oilober, the two caravels which I mentioned above, to fearch the Sireight of St. Vincent, becaufe about that time it was reported in Spain, that James Le Maire had difcovered it. Thefe two fhips failed to the bay of St. Gregory, which is near the eaft entrance of the Streight of Magellan ; from whence they failed along all that coaft, where they faw and conver- fed with a fort of giants, who were at leaft the head higher than any of the Europeans; and they exchanged for fcizars and other baubles gold, which it feems is the pro- duct of that country : after which they failed fouth-weft round the T'ierra del Fuego, till they came to the mouth of this new Streight, which they called the Streight of St. Vincent ; and before they entered it, they failed along the fhore of this new dif- covered land, keeping it always on the right hand, their courfe eaft-north-eaft, as it tends. They failed about thirty leagues; and not having difcovered all that way, nor as far as diey could fee, any opening or inlet, they returned to the opening of the Streight of St. Vincent ; and entering into it, went through it in lefs than one day, it not be- ing above feven leagues in length ; and be- ing entered afterwards into the South Sea, they followed the fame land to the eaft, and fouth-weft thirty leagues more ; and fee- ing it was one continued coaft, clofed up with mountains of great heighth, they durft not go any further, beginning to want pro- vifions •, and fo thinking that this land might reach as far as the Cape of Good- Hope, they left it, and failed to the weft entrance of the Streight of Magellan ; which they entered, and went through to the North Sea, returning that way to Spain, to give an account of what they had difcover- ed, having made a very fortunate voyage, and not loft one man, nor had any ficknefs, all that climate being very like that of Eu- rope, and particularly to the cold part of it.. This made the king give order for the fetting out of eight fail more, to carry this way to the Philippine iflands all the relief neceffary of foldiers, artillery, and tackling for fhips, refolving henceforward that they fhould always go this way, as being fhor- ter, eafier, and of lefs charge and danger. This was the opinion of Michael de Cardoel, and the other pilots chofen for this expedi- tion, who obliged themfelves to fail to the Vhilippinei (bating extraordinary accidents) in eight or nine months ; for having once pafled the Streights, if they had the wind and currents favourable, they hoped to get to the Philippines in two months ; becaufe from Chile to thofe iflands, there is no rea- fon, as in other navigations, to wait for certain feafbns and times of the year ; for all that voyage being to be made within the tropicks, there is no danger of winter ; but one may fail it at any time of the yean The Dutch authors already cited, treat- ing of this fubject, add thefe words : [" In " truth this is a great conveniency to man- " kind, to be able to go from Europe to " thefe iflands in fo lhort a time, with all " the health and fafety of the failors; it " being otherwife in going by the Cape of " Good Hope, where the diverfity of winds " is to be obferved, fome of them being " fo contrary, as to hinder abfolutely the " voyage •, fo that it lafts fometimes fif- " teen or fixteen months. Befides, this " courfe is fo fubjecl to difeafes, that of- " ten they bury half their men in the fea, " as happened to Girrard Reinft, who was " fixteen months getting to Bantam, which " is not above halfway to the Philippines, " and yet loft a quarter of his men : Adrian " Wreuter was nineteen months getting to " Bantam, and loft out of the fhip, called " the Fleffingue, one hundred and fixty " three out of two hundred : the fame " happened to the other three fhips of that " fquadron."] Thus far thefe dutch au- thors ; who add, That the fhip Concordia, going the other way, arrived at the Moluc- cas without lofing a man. And if they fay true, and make out that it is better to fail this way to their Batavia, how much better is it for the Spaniards, who drive a trade with Peru and Chile, the diftance being much lefs, and having for friends all the ports of Chile, if they won't go fo high as Peru, which the Dutch have not ? Neither would it be a fmall advantage to exchange in thofe ports the merchandizes of Europe with their product, which is fo wanting in the Philippine IJlands, and all thofe parts of the eaft. Every one may find their account in this trade ; the Spaniards, without run- ning the danger of ficknefs in thole un- healthy climates of Carthagena, Panama, and Puerto Bello, might find as much vent for the european commodities ; Chile and Peru would have all goods from Spain much cheaper than they have them now by the terra firma j the charges tiien would be 52 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book II. OvALLE.be three times lefs; and, at the fame time, 1646. jj^y wou ld help off the produ<5l of thofe .v^y^/ p arts . as £ rom p gru j^gy j-night; load corn, wine, and oil ; and if they did not care to go fo far, they might have the fame things from Chile, and cheaper, befides copper, hides, almonds, and other commodities pro- per to Europe : fo that 'tis clear this would be a very advantageous intercourfe for the Philippines, who want all thefe commodi- ties fo much. Neither would the trade of New Spain receive any damage at all from this ; for thole countries could not have them from Peru and Chile fo eafily as from Europe ; and fo Spain would fend lefs, only fo much as is carried to the Philippines from New Spain, which cannot be much ; for the charge of carrying thofe european commo- dities from Vera Cruz, to be embarked a- gain for the Philippines, is very confiderable, it being at leaft one hundred and fixty leagues by land from the Vera Cruz to Aca- pulco, which is the port where they are to be embarked ; after which they have a na- vigation of three months ; and then there being not always conveniencies of fhipping in Acapulco, thofe commodities are kept fo long that they are fpoiled •, and 'tis feen by experience how little of this trade turns to account : but it would be otherwife if thefe commodities were carried from Chile, fince in two or three months, always in a tempe- rate climate, they might fail with a conftant fouth wind, which blows all the fummer infallibly, and fo bring the product of Chile in a good condition to the Philippines. This commerce, though it would accommodate all parties, yet, it muft be confeffed, it would be moft beneficial to Chile, which would thereby have more vent for its producl:, and acquire more people to cultivate its natural fertility. There has been two obftacles to this pro- ject, which have hinder'd its taking : the firft is, the difficulty of pafilng the Str eight of Magellan, becaufe it being fo much ele- vated towards the pole, it cannot be pafied but in certain months of the year, which if thofe who attempt it do not hit, they are in danger of perifhing, as in effect it has happened to fome fquadrons of fhips, as I fhall relate in the next chapter ; though others have paffed it very luckily in its pro- per feafon, the Str eight ltfelf having, as we have feen, many good harbours and fhel- ters for fhips. The fecond obftacle is the fame that keeps the port of Buenos Aires from being frequented, (for elfe all the treafure of Peru might be fent that way ;) and it is, That the courfe of trade is fettled the other way, notwithftanding the great charge the crown is at to have two fleets, the one in the South, the other in the North Sea, only to fecure this paffage ; and that with the lofs of fo many Spaniards lives, that in the hofpital of Panama only, there was buried, as they told me when I went that way in the year 1630. above fourteen thoufand perfons ; 163c and what muft we gucfs then in the ports of Carthagena and Puerto Bello, which have been the kpulchre of fo many Eu- ropeans. Notwithftanding all thefe mifchiefs, this way is continued to maintain thofe cities already founded in thofe parts ; though it is moft certain, that the fame end of car- rying the filver to Spain might be attained by one only fleet with lefs danger of the lea. By that courfe the galleons would fail al- ways in deep water, and not run the ha- zards they do between Carthagena and the Havana, between which places they are fain to found all the way, and keep the lead going, to avoid the many fholes thac are in thofe feas, and in the canal of Baha- ma afterwards : befides that, the dangers of ficknefs would be avoided ; for the Spa- niards find by experience, that at Buenos Aires they are healthy, that being in the temperate climate correfponding to that of Europe. And for the fame reafon the navigation between Chile and the Philippines is not put in ufe ; becaufe the courfe of things being once fettled one way, 'tis very hard to change them, though to a better. I fhall not purfue this matter any further, becaufe it feems to touch the ftate and government, which is not my defign : perhaps time will bring all things to pafs ; and that thofe of Chile themfelves will venture to find out this vent for their product. All confifts in trying •, for the advantages on both fides would be fo manifeft, that the fweet of them would foon make the way eafy, and that trade would wonderfully enrich Chile and Peru, fince they might bring back to thofe kingdoms all the commodities of China- arid Japan ; and that without carrying any gold or filver, which might be preferved all for Europe. Thus the greateft part of this new world being enriched by its own product, the king's revenue will be the greater, as well as the returns in gold and filver the greater ; and all things thus well accommodated, the fervice of god, and the divine cult and worfhip would be better carried on. CHAP. Chap. 5. Kingdom of C H I L E. CHAP. V. 53 OVALLE. 1646. Of the Fleets ; fome of which have been loft, and fime have happily faffed the Streight of Magellan. Tour of the A MONG the fleets *hich have been it/hop of jT\ loft in the Streight of Magellan, the Placemia'j £ r fl. was t h at of four fhips fet out by the ?»' P tbe kJl bifhop of Placentia for the Molucca iflands ; Streight «/which having got to the Streight with good Magellan, weather, and being enter'd into it about twenty leagues, there rife from the weft a ftorm, which blowing dire&ly a-head, for- ced three of the fhips afhoar, they not ha- ving room to turn or run before it •, but all the men were faved. The fourth had bet- ter fortune ; for going before the ftorm, fhe got out of the Streight ; and when the foul weather was over, came into the Streight again, where the other fhips were loft, and found the men ; who had faved themfelves there has been heard the found of bells, and they have founded cities where they live ; but, in fine, there is no certainty of all this. A gentleman born in Chiloe, and who has been a colonel in thofe parts, gave me in writing a relation of feveral tradi- tions and informations of great numbers of people that inhabit the land within, and who have much gold. There has been made feveral attempts to difcover them, though all have mifcarried for want of pro- vifions, or by other accidents, which in time may be remedied when it pleafes God. And at this very time I have receiv'd let- ters, which acquaint me, That father Hie- roriuno de Montemayor, apoftolical miflio- on fhoar ; who prefently made figns and nary of that archipelago of Cbiloe, had en- cries to be taken on board ; but they with hearts full of grief anfwered them, What would you have? We cannot relieve you, for the provifions we have on board are not fuffi- cient for us, and fo we may fear toperifh all of us together. They could not fay to them the other words of the gofpel, Go rather to thofe who fell, becaufe they were in a defart country, where they had no remedy, but to fend fighs to heaven, accompanied with inconfolable tears and cries, capable of mo- ving the ftones themfelves. Thus they left them, purfuing their voyage, much afflicl:- ed to be forced to forfake them, and not be able to do any thing for them ; but thefe are accidents and hard cafes belonging to the fea-faring men. 'Tis not known to this day what has be- come of thefe men; only there is a tradi- tion, that a great way within land, on the continent of Chile, near the Streight, there The Cefla-is a nation call'd Ceffares, who wereendea- res, Juppe- vour'd to be difcover'd by Don Hieronimo fed to be j^ u - u j e Q a h rera ^ governor of Tucuman, twenty years ago, with a army rais'd at his own charge ; but his diligence was in vain, as we have mark- Spaniards originally. about eight and good ter'd into the terra firma in company of captain Navarro, a man very famous in thofe parts ; and that they difcover'd a na- tion, which 'tis thought are thefe Ceffares, becaufe they are a nation of white com- plexion, and frefh cherry cheeks, and who in their fhape and difpofition of body, feem to be men of mettle; and that they had brought fome of them along with them, to endeavour to inform themfelves of that which they fo much defire. This is all the father writ at that time, becaufe the fliip could not ftay, and there is but one ihip every year bound for thofe parts ; fo he was forced to refer himfelf to the next con- veniency, to inform me more particularly of the original and defcent of this nation ; fo that this is all that at prefent we can fay of this nation of the Ceffares, which 'tis poflible may come from thefe fhipwreck'd men ; or elfe they may defcend from fome Dutch, who may have been fhipwreck'd in the fame place, or thereabouts ; and their complexion feems to fortify this conjecture ; befides, that they fpeak a language which no body then prefent could underftand ; or there may be both Spaniards and Flemings. ed already, and told the caufe of his mil- 'Tis thought we lhall not be long without carrying. Tis thought, and 'tis very pro bable, thefe Ceffares may be defcended from thofe Spaniards who were faved in this fhip- wreck ; becaufe it was poflible, that feeing themfelves without any other recourfe, they might go on into the terra firma, where contracting alliance with fome Indian na- tion, they may have multiplied, and the fame of them may have reached the neigh- bouring nations, and fo on to others. This is certain, that this tradition is much kept up, that there is in thofe parts an European nation called Ceffares. Some fay, that Vol. III. knowing the truth, and fo I continue my narration. The fecond fleet which mifcar-^ Spanifh ried in the Streight, was that which was kt fleet loft out about two and twenty years ago, under'" th ' general Ayala, a gentleman of high birth re '^ and valour ; who going from Spain to Chile, dealt with his majefty for a relief of men, wltkh he was to carry through the Streight of Magellan, without landing any where elfe ; but juft as they were entering it, they were all caft away, fo as to this day there has not been any account of them, except of the vice-admiral's fliip, under the cora- P mand 54 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book II. OvALLE.mand of Francifco de Mandujava ; for ha- 1646. v i n g loft fight of the admiral in the ftorm, \*y~**/ ^ e was carr j ec j afore the wind to the port of Buenos Aires, where he landed the men, and marched them over land to Chile. I heard fome of the men talk of this matter ; and they ufed to blame the general very- much, for having gone about to enter the Streigbt when the time of the year was fo far advanc'd, particularly having been advifed in Brafil, where he touched to winter there, which he refufed to do, for fear his people fhould defert him, and fo he and they all perifhed. Thefe accidents feem to have made this pafiage lefs practicable ; but yet we know that many have pafied this Streigbt with little danger, and fome with great felicity. Eight fleets are mentioned by John and Theodore de Brye, as well Spaniards as fo» reigners, who have pafled this Streigbt ; and though fome have had bad weather, yet there is no doubt but time and good obfer- vations may make it more feafible ; parti- cularly there being fo many good harbours and bays in this Streight, where mips may fhelter themfelves, and let the ftorms blow over. CHAP. VI. Of the Province of Cuyo. Cuyo, the A third pre- j \^ vine* of Chile. " 'Remarks on Cuyo. F T E R having treated of the two firft parts of the kingdom of Chile, we muft fay fomething now of the third, which contains thofe large provinces of Cuyo, which are on the other fide of the Cor- dillera, towards the eaft. We have already defcribed their fituation and extent, let us treat now of the nature of them. And to begin with their ill qualities ; 'Tis a won- derful thing to confider that there being nothing between them and Chile, but the high mountains of the Cordillera, yet they are fo different in their qualities. We have already mention'd fome ; but we may fay, that as to their temperature, they are in every thing entirely oppofite •, for firft the heats are exceflive and intolerable in fum- mer ; and for that, as well as for the vaft quantity of bugs, or punaifes, which are there, fome very fmall, and others as big as bees, one can hardly fleep a-nights in the houies, and therefore the people all fleep in their gardens and court-yards. There are almoft perpetual thunders and lightenings, and many poifonous reptiles and infects, though not lb many as in Tucuman and Pa- raguay. There are likewife a fpecies ofMof- aaitos, or gnats, no bigger than the points of needles, and as fharp in their fting, though themfelves arealmoft imperceptible; they get into the hair of one's beard, and one cannot be rid of them any other way, than by killing diem. Thefe are the evil qualities of the land of Cuyo ; let us now mention the good ones. The land is fo fertile, that in many things it exceeds even the richeft foil of Chile ; the crops are better, the fruits larger, and of better tafte, by reafon of the great heat, which ripens them more : there is good ftore of corn, wine, flefli, all forts of fruits, roots, and herbs of Europe ; as alfo great quanti- ties of olive-yards and almond-grounds ; fo that the only eflential difference between it and Chile, is the many venomous animals, and the thunders and rains in fummer ; j though to make fome amends, if Chile ex- ceeds in fummer, Cuyo has the advantage in winter ; for though the cold is fharp, yet it is not with fuch clouds, nor fuch fnow and rains, as in Chile ; but rather the wea- ther is ferene, and the fun beautiful and clear, without any dark weather, which makes it very temperate. There is no fea-fifh in this province, it Cuyo, an being very far from any fea •, but it has'"'" 5 '* ponds, which are called the ponds of Gua- nacache, where they catch great quantities of trouts, as they call them, which are very big, like the Savalos of Seville, but much better without companion ; for they have no fmall bones, and are of a higher relifh, and a very healthy food. Befides the fruits of Europe, this country has feveral very good of its own. The firft is called Chanales, which are like filberts or fmall nuts ; only the difference is, diat that which is to be eaten is not within, but on the outfide of the fhell : the other is the Algaroba, of which they make bread fo fweet, that it naufeates thofe who are not ufed to it. All Tucuman, as far as Buenos Aires andParagudy, are provided from hence with figs, pomegranates, dried peaches, and dried grapes, apples, oil, and excellent wine, of which they have abundance, which they carry over thofe vaft plains, called the Pam- pas, (where for many leagues together there is not a tree, nor a ftone to be found J in large carts, fuch as they ufe here in Rome ; and they are a caravan of them together, to defend themfelves from certain Indians, who are enemies, and often attack them by the way. Some years ago they began to difcover here rich mines of filver, the fame of which drew people from Pot oft when I left Chile, becaule they were reputed to be richer, and of more profit than thofe of Potofi, all provifions being more abounding and cheap- er too. Thefe mines were alfo laid to be in a plain country,where carts might comeea- fily. They write me word likewife, That there Chap. 6. Kingdom of CHILE. 5S there has fince been difcover'd gold mines of a prodigious richnefs. 'Tis true indeed, that in this matter of mines, there is a great difference between allaying of them in little parcels, or in great ones ; for often the oar that promifes much, yields but little, when the affay comes to be made in great. This is a common obfervation in mines ; and if thefe of Cuyo do not prove extraordinary rich, there will hardly come any people from abroad to them, particularly from Chile, where they have already fo many and good ones, of fuch a known profit, and yet they do not work them, the people being more profitably employed in husbandry, which turns to greater account. I will give here an extract of a letter which I received in Rome this year from fa- ther Juan del Poco of our company, a perfon of great piety, and worthy of credit, who is at prefent in the college of Mendoca, the chief of all thofe of the province of Cuyo, and it is thus : [" The greater! news here, " is about the mines which are begun to be " difcovered, which if it holds as they re- " late, it will be the greateft thing in the " world : they are of gold, which is feen " among the filver oar : there are come very " understanding miners from Potofi, who " cannot give over commending them. " There come people from St. J ago, to " work them, and captain Lorenzo Soares is^ " named for Alcalde Mayor of thefe mines."] There are others who write the fame thing ; and there is no doubt to be made, but that if they can have people, that country will be one of the richefl of all the Indies ; for its great fertility wants nothing but people to cultivate and confume its producl:. This will make the three cities of that province, which are that of Mendoca, that ofSt.Juan, and that of St. Luis of Loiola, increafe mightily, which fince their firft foundation have been at a ftand, by reafon of the neigh- bourhood of Chile, which has kept them down ; many of the firft inhabitants of Cuyo having left it to go to Chile, as being more temperate, and more abounding with the conveniencies of life ; for the fame reafon that we fee in other parts moft people flock to the capitals of a kingdom, as is evident in Naples and other great cities. But if the SpaniJIo inhabitants increafe as they have done hitherto, there will be enough for all thefe parts-, and already fome of St. J ago have fettled, and married at St. Juan and Mendoca; neither can it be otherwife, for the people of Chile are beginning to be fo ftreighten'd, that they cannot have all the conveniencies of being at large, and fo are forced to leek them abroad. And 'tis moft certain, that the conveni- encies of this province are very great ; and their not appearing fo, is owing only to their neighbourhood to Chile, in comparifon of which thefe countries appear a place of ba-OvALLE. nifhment, and is look'd upon as the moft ri- l *£4<5- gorous that can be given any one in Chile ; *"V"V, becaufe, to fay truth, the difference is very great, confidering the proprieties of each place ; but if we confider Cuyo, without comparing it, it is not only a good place, but furpafies many others, where neverthe- lefs the inhabitants think themfelves very happy, though wanting the abundance of Cuyo, where the flefh is very fubftantial and favoury, and great abundance of game, as alfo of pork, turkeys, ducks, hens, and other tame fowl. The wines are very generous, and of fb much ftrength, that though they be carried three or foyr hundred leagues over thofe plains, and the intolerable heats of the Pam- pas, and that by oxen, yet they come good to Buenos Aires and other places, and are preferved with the fame facility, as long as one pleafes, without fpoiling ; and they are in fuch quantity, that all the provinces round are fupplied with them, nay, as fir as Paraguay, which is three or four hundred leagues more. The bread is excellent, fo is the oil, and all forts of pulfe and garden- ing; the fifh better than the fea-fiih; the flax and hemp as good as that of Chile ; the materials for tanning very good ; and, in fhort, it has all necefiaries for life, with as much advantage as any other country. This being thus, and even more than I relate, what is there wanting to this land, or what are its blots ? punaifes, thu?ider, light- ening, hail. And what other country has not fome of thefe ? Shall we fay, becaufe God has exempted Chile by a Angular providence from thefe things, that therefore Cuyo is an ill country ? No ; for then we muft condemn moft countries where thefe afflicting circum- ftances are found. And though it muft be own'd, that in the fummer the heats are great, yet they do not exceed thofe of Tucu- man, Buenos Aires, and Paraguay; and they are inferior to thofe of Brajil, and thofe of Ca'rajas, Carthagena, Puerto Bello, and Pana- ma, as I myfelf have experienced in fome of thofe places. And thefe parts of Cuyo have fome amends made them from the neigh- bourhood of the fnow ; for the city of Men- doca is not above a league from the Cordille- ra, which is full of it ; and likewife the good qualities of the air do fomething moderate the heat •, for it is fo healthy, that it never hurts any body by being in it, which makes them fleep in their gar- dens abroad, without any apprehenfion, except it be of fome fudden fhower which does often happen in fummer ; for on a fudden, though die heavens be clear and bright, it grows cloudy, and falls a raining with great fury ; but this may be eafily re- medied ; and likewife the thunders and thunderbolts might be avoided, which are the # Of the Nature and Properties of the Book II. OvALLE-the things which fright thofe of Chile moft, 1646. j-hey being £b little ufed to them ; and ^V^ therefore at the very name of Cuyo, they think the heavens are falling upon their heads, or that the punaifes, and other nau- feous vermin are never to leave them ; lb that no greater mortification can be propo- fed to an inhabitant of Chile, than to go to live in Cuyo. And befides all this, the vaft fnows which fall on the mountains, fhut up the pafies, and hinder all communication or intercourfe ; fo that in five or fix months one cannot receive a letter, though thofe two provinces are not above thirty or forty leagues afunder, that is, the breadth of that chain of mountains called the Cordil- lera. This therefore is that which dis- credits Cuyo ; and if it had been further off" from Chile, it would have had a better name ; but it is with that, as with two loaves, which though both good, yet if one be whiter and better, no body will touch the other, the beft being always moft pleafing. CHAP. VII. Of the Confines of the ^Province of Cuyo, and particularly of its Eaflerly Bounds j the Pampas, and of the River 0/Tlata. situMtion of fry h E confines of this province of Cuyo , 1 to the weft, are Chile ; and to the eaft, the Pampas, or vaft plains of the Rio de la Plata, and part of Tucuman ; which reach- ing as far as thofe of Rioca, and the moun- tains of St. Michael, with all the reft as far as Salta and Jujuy, make the north fide of it ; and to the fouth, it has the Streights of Magellan. All that lies within thefe bounds are open plains, reaching fo far, that there is not fo much as any flop to the eye ; but it is like a fea, and the fun feems to rile and let out of the earth ; and at its rifing, it is fometime that it gives but little light ; as alfo it lofes fome of its beams before it be quite out of fight when it fets. The Manner of way of travelling in thofe plains is with travelling. ver y high carts, which they cover over neatly with hoops, over which are cow- hides, with doors to go in and out ; and thefe are drawn by oxen : there are alfo windows to give a free pafTage to the air, and on the bottom one makes one's bed with fo much conveniency, that often tra- vellers deep out the whole journey, and feel not any of the inconveniencies which attend it. Generally they fet out about two hours before fun-fet, and travel all night, till it be an hour or two after fun-rifing ; fo that a traveller juft wakes when he comes to the baiting-place. This muft be owned to be a great conveniency ; becaufe one may alfo walk on foot fometimes, in the cool, before one lies down, and fo one comes mer- rily and eafily to one's journey's end. Hunting. There is alio another entertainment which helps to pafs the time pleafantly, and that is hunting : and for this end fome carry horfes empty, and dogs on purpofe ; and there is game enough both ol hare and ve- nifon : for there are herds of Guanacos, of two or three hundred. The dog follows them ; and the young-ones, not able to follow, are left behind, which the hunter knocks on the head with a club he carries, j without lighting from his horfe, and re- turns to the carts loaden with venifon, which ferve for provifion as well as en- tertainment. At other times they follow the partridges, francolins, or the bird called Quiriquincho. But to all this there are abatements and mixtures of trouble : the firft is, the mighty heat in fummer ; for which reafon, left the oxen fhould be ftifled with it, they travel in the night ; and when they come to halt, or bait in the day time, 'tis in places where there is not fo much as a tree, under whofe fhade one may reft ; nor is there any other fhade than that of the cart, and fome coverlet upon it ; for to go into it, is like going into an oven. But this is not all the way, there being fome pleafant running ftreams and rivers border- ed with green willow-trees, which very much mitigate the fury of the heat. The great- eft inconvenience that I perceived in that journey, was the want of water ; which is fo great, that we were forced to provide ourfelves, when we arrived at any of thefe rivers, for many days journey ; for there is no other, except fometimes fome plafhes remaining of rain-water ; rand that is all green, and can ferve only for the oxen : and yet this is rare too ; for thefe are often dried up to mud, and then one is forced to double the day's journey, and march as far again ; fo that the cattle is almoft dead with thirft. I have feen fometimes, on thefe occafions, the oxen take a run as if they were mad or poflefled ; for they know by inftincl, a league or two before they come at it, the places where it is, as if they fmelled it ; fo there is no flopping thofe that are loofe ; and even thofe who are at the yoke, make what hafte they can •, and when they get to the water, they raife the mud fo by their hafte, that they drink as much mud as water. When this happens, while there is any of the water left that was taken at the river, and Chap. 21. Kingdom of CHILE. 57 and carried in carts, the misfortune is the lefs ; but when that water is already fpent, the people fuffer extreamly : for though moft commonly fome one man is fent before to take up fome water of the cleareft, be- fore the oxen trouble it, yet they make fuch hafte, that that prevention moft commonly mifcarries ; and then we are fain to flop our nofes, and ihut our eyes to drink, and divert even our imagination, if we can. And to all this there is no remedy, but from heaven, as it happened to me once, that it pleafed god to fend us a fhower in our greateft extremity, which filled feveral wells, and there was enough for us and our cat- tle, as alfo to carry away ; for which we thanked the divine majefty, acknowledging his great mercy to us in fo preffing circum- ftances. This fuffering would not be fo great, if there were any towns and villages in the way ; for there are little lakes, by which they might fettle, which though fome years they yield no water, yet it is to be come at by a little digging, and that not very deep ; and if there were people in thofe defarts, wells might be made, or the rain-water gathered in cifterns, as it is practifed in fe- veral other places. But thefe plains are fo vaft, that they can hardly be peopled, be- ing extended for feveral hundred leagues ; and befides, there being no trade fettled of any importance in thofe parts, there can- not be inns nor places of fhelter fettled ; and fo at prefent, whoever travels that way, mull carry every thing -, for when once one is fet out, diere is no addition to be made ; and therefore all is to be provided, more or lefs,OvALLE. according to one's ability ; and that muft ^"^~\ be at leaft a fortnight's allowance, and fome times twenty or thirty days, till one comes to fome inhabited place. This is the man- ner of travelling in the plains of Cnyo, and 'Tucutnan, and the Rio Plata, where in ma- ny leagues one does not fee a hill, nor a ftone, nor a tree, but continual plains ; and if, to drefs your victuals, you have not the forefight to carry fome wood, all the reme- dy is to gather the cow-dung, which ferves the turn very ill. In fome places of this province of Cuyo, there are woods near the rivers, from whence may be had materials for building ; and hard by the Cordillera there is a fort of tree that breeds incenfe. I brought fome of it to Rome, and the drug- gifts told me, that it was finer than the or- dinary, confumed in churches. There grows there alfo the herb called Xarilla, which is very hot, and a good medicine, as we have faid already. There are many others, of which I cannot give fo particular an ac- count, as not having made any ftay in thofe parts •, neither am I in a place where I can advantage myfelf of thofe relations, that others might give me ; and which may ferve for larger hiftories than mine, I pre- tending only to brevity. Therefore let this fuffice for an account of the fituation, foil, heavens, proprieties, trees, plants, fruits, metals, flocks, fountains, rivers, fea -fifties, and birds, in all the three parts or divfions of the kingdom of Chile. Let us now fay a word of its inhabitants, the old Indians, who have poflefied it all formerly. Vol. III. !9 ' of water and lea, which might be eafily pafs'd in finall vefiels, fuch as were in ufe in thofe ancient times. This is the author's opinion ; which, as to the Tierra de Bacalaos, carries with it only the probability of an ingenious con- jecture ; becaufe as yet that part of the world has not been difcovered ; but if in time it proves like the conjecture about the Streights of Magellan, 'tis all without any grounds j for, as we have already related, 'tis now made plain, that America on that fide is entirely divided from the other parts of the world by a vaft fea. 'Tis true, that to the eaft 'tis not known yet how far that land runs, which is over-againft the Tierra del Fuego, and is on the eaft fide of the Streight of St. Vincent, otherwife called the Streight of Li? Maire ; for fome think that it may run as far as the Cape of Good Hope, and fo be fo near that part of Africa, that men might pafs in fmall vefiels from the one to the other. 'Tis likewife uncertain, that the continent of America ever was nearer than it now is to any other continent, or that the fea has fince broke away part of either, to make the feparation wider, as we have obferved it did in the ifland of Sancla. Maria, which is fuppofed to have former- ly been all of one continued piece with the firm land of Arauco -, but thefe are all conjectures, and he alone knows the truth who created thefe men, and other animals of America, and by whofe providence they pafled to thofe parts, for the great ends of his hidden fecrets •, to whom, with all ve- neration for his councils, we muft fubmit the enquiry, why he has been pleafed that that part of the world fhould remain un- difcovered for fo many ages, without any communication with thofe parts where his divine light has appeared fooner. Thefe are confiderations for the good to make ufe of with thanks, for having been admitted to it ; and confufion of the wicked, who at noon day are as much in the dark, as if it had never dawned. Peter Bereius, in his geography, as John Bereius; and Theodore de Brye do relate, collects the antiquity of thofe nations of America, from their moft ancient kings and lords, and from the ruins of ancient edifices, and other me- morable things ; for this argues the large- nefs of time, in which all this was done. Amongft other things, he mentions the re- port of one of their gardens belonging to fome king, (which muft be of Peru, who were always the richeft,) in which all the herbs, and plants, and fhrubs, with their trunks, leaves, and flowers of the natural proportion, were of mafly gold ; and in the 6o Of the Nature and Properties of the Book III. Ovalle. the houfes of recreation, there were all forts 1646. f an i m als made of precious ftones, and ■V"V"*" / fome of feathers of various colours. They fay befides, that the Ingas, who were the emperors of Peru, were the richeft princes in the world ; and that they had fo much gold, that not only the plate they eat in were of that metal, but all their houlhold fluff and furniture were of the fame, to their tables, benches, cupboards, nay, to the ftatues themfelves ; a great deal of which fell to the Spaniards fhare when they conquered thofe parts ; but the belt part was hid and concealed by the Indians, which to this day they keep undifcovered, being in that way of fecret intractable and extream clofe. Neither is it any wonder that thofe princes fhould ufe fo much gold, fince they were mafters of more of that metal than any others ; being fo beloved by their fub- jedts, that whatever they had that was pre- cious, they prefented it to them ; and they were fo inclined to hoard it, that whoever fucceeded in the monarchy, made it a point of ftate not to touch, but rather to increafe the treafure of his father ; of which a great proof was the vaft fum which Atahualpa offered for his ranfom, and paid to the Spa- niards for it, as we lhall fee hereafter. Amongft other precious pieces of gold work, authors make particular mention, and admire with reafon, that chain which the king Guaynacapa, the eleventh king of Peru, caufed to be made at the birth of his ion Guafcar, who was to inherit his crown ; for each link of it was as big as the wrift of a man, (as is reported by GareilaJJo de la Vega, who had it from an uncle of his, an Inga alfo, who told him, when he asked the bignefs, as big as this, (fhewing his wrift,) and as long as twice the length of the great place of Cufco, which in all might be above feven hundred foot long. And the contador, Augitftin de Far ate, in his firft book, Chap. 14. treating of the incredible riches of that Inga, fays thefe words : [Guaynacapa, at the birth of his/on, caufed a great cable of gold to be made (as is atteft- ed by feveral Indians yet alive) of fo much weight, that two hundred Indians could but jttft lift it up from the ground ; for memory of which they gave the name of Guafcar Inga to the new born prince ; for Gvafcafignifes a cable ; and the firname of Inga was added, as that of Auguftus to the Roman emperors.] Thus far this author : but diis name, or word Guafca, not being fo decent in its fignification for a prince, they added the r to it, and neverthelefs eterniz'd the memo- ry of that rich chain. The chiefeft motive the king had to or- der this chain to be made, was, that the dances which were to be made at his birth, might be more folemn, and worthy of his royal perfon ; becaufe the manner of dan- cing of the Indians, is to take one another by the hands, and make a circle ; and fo moving two fteps forward, and one back- ward, draw clofer and cloler to the kins, to make their obeifances ; and the king caufed this chain to be made, for them to take hold of, inftead of taking hold of one another. A great proof likewife of this antiquity of the empire of Peru, is thofe two high- ways mentioned by Herrera ; for being of that vaft length, and work'd with all thofe conveniencies for travellers, they could not be made but by length of time, and with a long continued labour. This is what I find of the antiquity of the firft inhabitants of America, in which we may comprehend the Indians of Chile, CHAP. II. Of the great Courage and Boldnefs of the Indians of Chile. TH E Indians of Chile are famed by all who have writ of them, for the boldeft and moft valiant warriors of all the vaft ex- tent of the new world : it were to be wifhed by us, that this had not been confirmed by woful experience, for then the kingdom of Chile would have been one of the moft flou- rifhing kingdoms of the Indies, without the continual wars which it has maintained for about an hundred years, without ever cea- fing, or laying down its arms. This is the more confiderable, if we reflect, that the Spaniards having fubjected, in fo little a time, thofe vaft empires of Mexico and Pe- ru, have neverthelefs not been able, in fo great a time, to conquer the Indians of Chile, fons of the great Cordillera, from whofe rocks they feem to borrow their un- tameable ftrength and fiercenefs. Except we fhould fay with fryer Gregory of Leon, That this bravery comes from the fertility of the earth, which, as he fays, and is true, does not need any thing from abroad. To which he adds, the birth of thefe peo- ple, who all their life tread upon fo much gold, and drink the water which runs over thefe rich minerals, by which they partici- pate of its good and generous qualities, as it is obferved of thofe who live at Potofi, near that vaft mountain of filver, who are fo ftout and haughty, as has appeared in the many revolutions that have happened there. Let this be as it will all authors agree, that they are the top nauon of America, though Chap. 2. Kingdom of CHILE, 61 though hitherto no one has treated pur- pofely of this matter. There are now two hiftories in the prefs, which will make out, by particulars, all that has been faid of this nation. Don Alonzo de Ereilla fays enough, in his famous poem, call'd the Araucana ; but becaufe it is in verfe, it feems to leflen fomething the real truth ; and yet abftracT:- ing from the hyperboles and enlargings of poetry, all the hiftorical part is very con- formable to truth, he being a gentleman of great quality, and an eye-witnefs of what he affirms ; for what he writ, was not by hearfay, but upon the very fpot where the things happened ; fo that he might have had as many contradictors as he had witnef- fes, who were prcfent as well as he at what pafs'd. He dedicated his book to the moft ca- tholick king, his lord and mafter ; and pre- fenting it to him with his own hand, when he came from Chile to Spain, 'tis to be pre- fum'd he would not have dared to fail in the exactnefs of truth, for fear of receiving a chaftifement, inftead of a reward, which he obtain'd for it. Let any read his pro- logue, in which, in a very good ftile, and in profe, he gives a noble account of the valour of the Indians, and concludes his preface with thefe words : [/ have faid" all this, as a proof and clear demonjlration of the valour of thefe nations, worthy of all the en- comiums I can give them in my verfes ; and befides, there are now in Spain feveral per- fons who were prefent at many of the atlions which I here defcribe y and refer to them the defence of my work on that fide.'] Thus far this author, worthy of immortal praife for his incomparable book, which, though pub- lished above fifty years ago, and printed in Spain and Flanders, is yet continually re- printed ; which fhews the value the curious and the learned have for it. The Arauca- nos are indeed the chief fubject of it ; and yet what is faid of them may be extended to all the Indians of Chile, as we fhall fee in its proper place, when we fhall treat of the wars they had with the Spaniards. But before ever the Spaniards fet their feet on their ground, they had given fuffi- cient proof of their bravery, which was in- vincible, to the Ingas, emperors of Peru, fince with all their power they could never conquer them, though they endeavour'd it, as being extreamly inclin'd to enlarge their dominions ; and they defir'd it the more, for the fame of Chile, to which they lent a powerful army, and which made fome pro- grefs at firft, fubjeding fome nations to ex- traordinary tributes. But as they purfued their point, and came to the valley of Maule, they met with the Promocaes, to whofe fuccour the Chilenos, who inhabited more within the country, were come, and Vol. III. forc'd the army of the Ingas to retire inOvALLE. hafte. Gareilajfo de la Vega relating this ^^O more particularly, fays, »~y r ^ ,/ That the Ingayn Pangue, the tenth king Car. Je I* of Peru, came to the confines of his own Ve &*< kingdom, to a place call'd Atacama, to be nearer at hand to attend the conqueft of Chile; and from thence firft fent his fcouts through the fourfcore leagues of uncultiva- ted country, which was between his king- dom and Chile, with orders to difpatch a man, every two leagues, with an account of what they difcover'd ; which they did, one meflenger following another, and lea- ving in the way certain marks, whereby they that came laft might guide themfelves. He firft fent ten thoufand men, under the command of general Sinchiruca, and two other colonels of his own kindred, not be- ing willing to commit to any others care fo great an enterprize. They came with- in fight of the valley of Copiapo, which is the firft inhabited valley of Chile ; with the inhabitants of which, the Peruvians began to skirmifh, becaufe they had not admitted the embafTy which they fent them as from the Inga, to own him for their lord •, and withal, having given notice of the refil tance they found to the Inga, he fent them ten thoufand men more, with a new fum- mons, afTuring them, That his defign was not to take their country from them, but only that they fhould own him as fon of the fun, and lord of all that was warm'd and enlighten'd by him. Thofe of Copiapo feeing this new relief to their enemies, and knowing that it would not be the laft, be- caufe the Inga yn Pangue was preparing another fuccour, and being convinced that this acknowledgment would coft them lefs than the blood that muft be fpilt in a long refiftance, they agreed to own the Inga as he defir'd. This was the firft entrance of the Peru- vians as far as Maule, which is one of the rivers of Chile, as has been faid already. By this time, the army of the Peruvians was fifty thoufand men, and defiring to pro- fecute their conqueft, they fent their ordi- nary embafTy to the nation of the Promo- caes, who having already been inform'd of their invading their neighbours, were in arms to defend their country. The am- bafTadors of the Inga deliver'd their accuf- tom'd meffage, protefting, that their lord defir'd nothing more, than to be acknow- ledge as fon of the fun, and honour'd ac- cordingly by their fubmiffion. The Pro- mocaes, who were refolv'd to defend their liberties, made anfwer, That the conquerors fhould be the lords and majlers ; and fo uni- ting all their forces, came on the fourtli day, and prefented battle to the Peruvians. The Inga's generals, furpriz'd at fuch a cou- R ragious 62 Of the Nature and "Properties of the Eook III. OvALLE-ragious refolution, fent them new fummons, ,*£ 4 ^* defirmg their friendfhip and peace, calling L w*yw/ t ^ e ^ un an( j moon to vvitnefs, that they came not to fpoil them of their lands or goods, but only to oblige them to own the fun for their God, and the Inga for his fon and their lord. To which they receiv'd anfwer, That they came not to fpend time in talking, or vain difcourfes, but to fight manfully till they fhould conquer or die ; adding, that they might prepare them- felves for battle the next day, as it hap- pen'd ; and the Promocaes overcame that powerful army of the Ingas, fo that they had no mind to try their fortune any more, but made their retreat, leaving the Promo- caes in peace, and full poffeffion of their lands, which they had fo bravely defended. Antonio de Herrera, in his third tome, and fifth decade, treating of the reafon why thofe of Chile refus'd to fubmit to thofe mo- narchs the Ingas, fays, That it was becaufe of the great reverence with which they made their fubjecls treat them, as if they "Were Gods, and approach them as if they were of another fpecies ; which the Chile- mans could not bear, their mind being too lofty and generous to fubmit to fuch a tyran- ny, which they conftantly oppos'd ; info- much, that though the Ingas had conquer'd the belt part of that continent, yet the Chi- lenians never did yield to their power. Per- haps the neareft provinces to Peru, fuch as thofe of Guafco, Coquhnbo, and Copiapo, did in fome meafure acknowledge their power, fince they paid a tribute in gold ; and for that reafon, thefe provinces alone in all the kingdom of Chile, do fpeak the common language of Peru, which is a very ftrong proof of what I here fay. For the fame reafon that they refilled the Ingas, they did not care to have any king of their own nation, the love of their li- berty prevailing againft all the reafons of ftate, which might move them to have one monarch ; neither did they fall into any popular form of government, or common- wealth ; for their warlike temper did not afford patience enough for the flegmatick debates, neceffary for the union of fo ma- ny minds. Thus every family chofe one among them to govern them. From this arofe the Caciques, who are the fovereigns among them, and by degrees had that power hereditary, and their children after them enjoy it, with all its rights. But though every one governs indepen- dently his own diftricl: or jurifdiftion, yet when the occafion offers, that the fafety of all is concern'd, there is an affembly of therheftate- Caciques, and fome of the elders of thc#"»^" J - people, who are men of experience, and are fummon'd after their way by particular meflengers. In thefe councils they relulve what they think moft convenient ; which, if it be a cafe of war, either defenfive or of- fenfive, they chufe the general, not one ot'Cbokeofa the moft noble of the Caciques, or the moA'"' c " era ' powerful, but he who has the fame of moft valiant, and has beft behav'd himfelf on the like occafion againft their enemies ; and when he is juftly chofen, all the other Caciques obey him punctaally. 'Tis after this manner that they have preferv'd them- felves fo many years againft all the ftrength that has been brought againft them. To make thefe afiemblies, they chofe out fome very pleafant place, field, or meadow ; Manner of and thither they bring great ftore of pro- 'f e P** e ~ vifion, and ftrong drink, call'd Chicha, which is inftead of wine. Being all afiem- bled, and well warm'd with this liquor, and excited in their martial temper, there rifes up fome one of the moft antient, to whofe lot it falls, to propofe the bufinefs of that meeting ; who with great eloquence (for in that they are very famous) opens the matter, and brings all the reafons and mo- tives of perfuafion that he can. All are oblig'd to yield to the majority of opinion ; and when the refult is made, 'tis publifh'd with the found of drums and trumpets, and a mighty noife ; but yet allowing every one the term of three days, to rerleft and con- fider on what has been refolv'd ; after which, if they find no inconveniency, the execu- tion is infallible, and they think of the means of bringing the bufinefs about by the moft proper methods. CHAP. Ill; The fame Subjett is ptrfued^ and the Nobility of the Indians of Chile examined. ANtonio de Herrera, in the place alrea- dy cited in the laft chapter, fays, That there are fome of the Indians reputed above the reft as gentlemen ; and then he adds thefe words, [Of this fort have been, and areftill the Indians of Chile.] In which he fays well ; for if valour and the glory of arms makes gentlemen, as may be feen in Andreas 'Tiraquello, in his book de Nobili- tate & jure Primogenitor urn; and if many noble families do to this day derive them- felves from fome great captain or famous foldier, the Chilean Indians having fo often fignalized their valour in fights, they may very juftly be diftinguifh'd from all the other Indians, and reputed more noble. In Chap. 3. Kingdom of CHILE. 63 In fliort, they are the untam'd Cantabri of America, who, like thole of Europe, de- fended themfelves, when all the reft of it was enflaved ; and repulied the conquering monarchs of Peru to the extream confines of their provinces. And there is one circumftance more par- ticular than under the Cantabrians, becaufe they had the advantage of their mountains, x and the barreryiefs of their country, not lb inviting to a conqueror ; but in Chile it was otherwife : the richneis of its mines, and its foil full of delicious valleys, and a clear and rich territory, having been always well known, the only valour and bravery of its inhabitants was then the defence of the country : thefe were the fortrefies and walls of it •, for without a bit of fortification of any fort, or lb much as one fire-arm, they oblig'd their powerful enemy to a fhame- ful retreat. Indeed, this is a thing worthy of great admiration •, yet not lb much to thoie who know how thefe Indians value themklves upon being good foldiers, ufing themfelves to arms, even from their child- hood ; of which it will not be amiis to fpeak a little. The educa- When a child is ftrong enough, they tion of the ma ke i t run U p the rocky fide of a hill, gi- Cbile. v ' n S hi m th^ ^ oes lt ^ e ^' 1 " ome P r ' ze or reward: this makes them very nimble and light ; and I have feen them, in their feafts and entertainments, run two and two for wagers with wonderful fwiftnefs •, and thofe who fhew little difpofition to this exercife, are applied to follow day-labour, but die others they referve for war, not fufiering them to take to any other employments, but mind their arms and their horfes, that they may be perfect in all their exercifes. To thefe they aflign their poft upon occa- fion, according as each has behav'd himfelf in thofe which he has been in before •, and they have in this ho confideration of gen- tility, intercefiion of others, or other mo- tives, but that alone ot a good performance, and the- many proofs given by them of their courage and conduit in war. Their arms -ph e arms t h e y u f e ^ are pikes, halberts, m war. i aunceSj hatchets, maces of arms, bars, darts, arrows, and clubs ; as alfo ftrong noofes to throw upon a horfeman, and flings. Their horfe fight with launce and buckler, which they have learn'd from the Spaniards, and from them they have had their horfes ; for before their time, they had neither horfe nor iron, but they have a hard wood, which grows yet harder by being turn'd in the fire, and is almoft as ufeful as Their zr- fteel. They have hard and ftrong corfe- mtur. i etS) back and breaft, and thighs, arms, bracelets, gauntlets," helmets, morions; all thefe of a hardened leather, fo prepared when raw, that it becomes by drying as im- penetrable as any fteel •, and they are fome-'.OvALLE. thing better, becaufe more manageable, and .\r*r, do embarrafs the body lefs, as being ligh- ^^v** ter ; and fo the man is, more at his eafe, and better difpos'd in fight. Among them the pikeman may not be an archer ; neither can any that ufes the mace of arms, ufe other arms ; fo every one beftirs himfelf with the arms he is us'd to. In forming their battalions, every file »x&«r order of above an hundred men, and between °f bMtle - every pikeman an archer, who are defend- ed by the pikemen, who clofe their lho.il- ders together ; and if their firft battalion is broken, the fecond relieves them with fo much readinefs, that there feems not that any have fail'd ; and fo by the third and fourth following each other, like waves of the fea, without any interruption ; and no man forfakes his rank, but by death. They always endeavour to have fome bog or lake not far off" for a retreat ; for there they are more in lafety than in the ftrongeft caftle. Their volunteers go before the batta- lion, trailing their pikes with fo much ftate, and are themfelves fo haughty, that, like. Goliab, they challenge their enemy to meet them body to body ; and they do the fame to the Spaniards, giving themfelves great airs of pride. They march to the found: Their war- of their drums and trumpets, having their l,ke orm - arms garniin d with all variety of beauti- ful colours, and themfelves adorn'd with great plumes of rich feathers, fo that they appear very handfome and fighrly. When they make any forts for their de- Their forts. fence, it is of great trees interwoven with each other, and leaving in the middle a place of arms ; and formerly within this fort they us'd to make another of thick planks. Behind this, they make a great ditch, co- ver'd over with plants and flowers, but underneath them fharp ftakes to lame the enemy's horfes •, fome they make deeper, that the horfes may remain there ftak'd thorough. Many of them are fubject to great fuper- ftitions and auguries, obferving the omens, both before and at the time of their under- taking •, but many of them laugh at thofe obfervations, faying, there are no better omens than good blows, and ftout laying about them, without fear of either fteel, fire, or any fort of death ; and it is certain- ly fo, that their firft encounter is terrible, and as if they fear'd no one thing in the world. When they are drawn up, and ready to engage, there is filence made, and the general raifing his voice, begins an ha- rangue, fo full of fpirit, fill'd with fuch warm incitations, and fuch a lively action, that the cowardlieft among them become like lions and tygers againft their enemies. He lays before them the glory of victory, and 6 4 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book III. OvALLE.and the fliame of being overcome, and made 1646. captives and flaves to their adverfaries. ^f^*7 > " Take notice, fays he, that there is now toy txfor-" no medium between thofe two extreams: tatiotu. " are not you the fons and grandchildren " of thofe brave men, who have fought " fo many battles, and ventur'd all to de- " fend that country and liberty, for which ' ' we now fight ? Shall we own that they " exceed us in bravery, or that the ene- " mies we encounter are fuperior to thofe " whom they overcame? Had they lefs " motives than we have ? or do we hope '-' for lefs glory ? We muft all die •, and " in the equality of that common fate, " the only difference is dying nobly for our " dear country, and the liberty of our wives " and children ; therefore rouze up that " courage which you have inherited from " your anceftors, who never could endure " the thoughts of that infamous yoke of " flavery upon their necks. Courage then " brave men, as brave as any the fun fees •, *•* courage, for in that lies vi&ory." With thefe, and other fuch words, and calling to mind fome of their victories, they grow fo warm, that raifing a cry of war, they drive away all fear, and exprefs great defire of engaging their enemies ; which they do with fo much fury and refolution, that a battalion that ftands their firft fh j k is a very firm one. But we will treat fur- ther of this when we fhall fpe;ik of the battles they have had with the Spaniards, whole valour has fet theirs in its luftre, obli- ging them to give fuch proofs as are wor- thy to be recorded in hiflory. Let us purfue now the account of their natural qualities, independently from the refiftance which they have made to his catholick majefty's arms. Their m- The warlike fpirit of this nation proceeds tural xwfrom their natural temper, which is chole- * ir ' rick and impatient, proud, arrogant, and fierce, very cruel in their revenge, cutting their enemies (when in their power) inhu- manly to pieces, and wallowing in their blood. We fhall relate a cafe hereafter, in which fomething of this will be feen. They Their are ftrong and robuft of body, well pro- tnake. portion'd, large moulders, high chefts, well fet in their members, nimble, aftive, vigorous, and nervous, couragious and undertaking, enduring hunger, thirft, heat, cold ; defpifing all conveniencies of life, even their own fmall ones, having little value for their very lives, when 'tis necefiary to ha- zard them, either for glory or liberty ; con- ftant in their refolutions, and perfifting in a thing once begun with incredible fteadinefs. GooAhorfe- They are excellent horfemen, and upon men. a fingle faddle-cloth, or without one, they are as firm as others in war-faddles: they'll ride down the fide of a hill, or a precipice, as if they were goats, with their bodies as ftreight and as firm on horfeback, as if they were nail'd to the horfe : they have no trou- ble with the baggage they want, for they carry but little with them; not but that when they march they have th=ir little pack of flower of maiz, a lictle fait, fome Pi- mientos, or Guinea Pepper, and dried flefh ; and this is enough to maintain them a good while. They need no other kitchen uten- fils than a gourd or calabajh, with which, when they come to a river or fpring, they open their flower-bag, and wet a little with the water, and that ferves them for drink ; and for meat, when they put more of it with a little fait and pepper, this they call Ru- bul\ and fometimes they eat their meal dry, with flices of dried flefh. The great numbers of people which that Their mm- country has maintain'd, may be collected ier * and from the people that the Spaniards found ""'' there at their firft coming, which was about 2 00000, more or lefs, according to the great- nefs of the diftrifts or territories, and their habitations, which never were in form of a city or town •, for the Indians cannot endure any formal conftraint, but love to live free in the fields ; and every Cacique, or lord, govern'd his own vaflals, who placed them- felves according to 'their conveniencies, fome in one valley, and fome in another ; fome at the foot of mountains, others on the fide of rivers •, fome by the fea-fide, or on the top of mountains ; but all under no other form of government, than the will of their lord, the Cacique, to whom they yielded a ready and prompt obedience with joy. Their houfes are generally of wood, with- xheir how out any ftories, not very large, nor all of a/«. piece, but each room fram'd by itfelf, fo that when they have a mind to remove and chufe another fituation, they carry away the houfe by pieces, or rooms, which ten or twenty men can eafily carry. When they take it up, they clear the ground about it, and then at one cry, lifting all together, they get it up, and carry it chearfully away, every one taking hold by its pillars ; and when they are weary they reft awhile, and fo on again. Their doors are of the fame 72*i> /im- material, and they have neither hinges, locks l "y ',' on * 1 l- j 1 1 another. nor keys, nor any thing under a lock or key, their fecurity confuting in each other's fidelity, which they obferve facredly to- wards one another. Their furniture is very mean, they being their fur- a people that defpife all conveniencies and nimrt. fuperfluities ; infomuch, that that which is their natural way of living, would be high penance with any European na- tions : For firft, as to their beds, they have neither quilts, nor fheets, nor pillows, much lefs do they need curtains, pavil- lions, or alcoves. The hard ground is their couch, upon which they lay fome poor skins > Chap. 4- Kingdom of CHILE. ^ skins ; and for boulfter, they lay a ftone, or a piece of wood, and double their cloaks to lay on it •, and that is their higheft con- trivance of eafe : they have one or two very coarfe coverlets, which they weave of a fort of thread as thick as one's little finger. People that ufe fo little about their perfons, may eafily be prefumed to have no hangings, nor other ornament to their walls ; they have no utenfil of gold or filver, though they have lb much in their country ; their plate is four or five dilhes, and fome fpoons of wood, or a (hell from the fea fide ; a ca- labafh or gourd to drink in ; a leaf of a tree, or of maiz, for a faltfeller. This is all the apparatus of their table, which is the ground, or at beft a little bench, without any cloth or napkins, but only a little broom, upon which they wipe their hands. Their food Their meats are the mod fimple, and andditt. eafily dreft, without any incitements to o-luttony, as in other nations ; but yet they are tafteful enough, and fuch as many of our Europeans like very well. They eat little flefh ; and before the Spaniards came among them, they had neither fheep, goats, nor cows, no, nor hens : they ufe thefe only at their great feafts. Their ordinary diet is of maiz, variety of fruits and herbs, and mod commonly gourds, or a fort of beans, which we call frizoles. They did eat fifth ; and the game they hunted, particularly a fort of lmall rabbits, which they call Degus ; and fince the coming in of the Spaniards, they eat beef and mutton, of which there is great abundance. Inftead of wheat bread, which they had not before the Spaniards brought it, they eat maiz boiled in water, juft as rice in the &hiz. Eaji Indias. This maiz is, and always hasOvALLE. been the general nourifhment of the Indians ,*f 4<5- of America ; and is not only their meat, W "V^' but their drink, which they make of the fame maiz, toafted and fteeped in water, and then boiled, and fet by ; and that is their Chicha, or wine, which they make al- fo of the fruit of other trees. Their way of making flower is very dif- Their ferent from ours : they firft toaft their maiz ir "" 1 - in great platters of earth ; thefe they fet upon the fire full of fand, which when it is very hot, they take off; and putting the grains of maiz to it, ftir them about very faft with a kind of broom : it is foon toaft- ed. When done, they take it out, and put in more, till they have done enough to make flower. This they grind between two ftones thus ; They have a ftone fixed in the ground, of about the fhape and bignefs of a fheet of paper, and fo hollowed, as ano- ther ftone of an oval figure may play upon it : this the indian woman takes with both The women hands, and being upon her knees, makes it make •'• play upon the other, putting, from time to time, with her left hand, the maiz between the two ftones, fo as to fupply what falls away, and that the mill do not ftand ftill. The flower falls forward into a fort of box, as it does in our mills, and almoft as faft, comparing the ftrength of a woman to that of a ftream of water. She can do enough at once for the maintenance of her family ; and make a provifion too for a journey or a voyage of her husband or fon to the wars. This is the proper bufinefs of the women ; and it would be a fhame for a man to em- ploy himfelf in it, or in any other houfhold bufinefs. CHAP. IV. Of the fame SubjeEl. w HEN the Indians are fick, they change little of their ordinary way of living, and they never have a better bed. indianphle- Their way of letting blood is fafer than htomy. ours . f or -,. j s nQt w - lt ^ a l ancetj w hich may either fail to draw blood, or go too deep, and lame the arm, if the furgeon be not very skilful ; but with a fharp flint, fixed at the end of a little piece of wood, fo faft, that there is juft enough left out to cut the vein, and no more : this they apply to the vein after they have made a bandage, as we do, and ftriking a little ftroke upon it, the blood never fails to come, in greater abundance than our bleedings are. This is all they need a furgeon or barber for, they themfelves having no beards to fhave, and the little hair they have, every one pulls out ; and they take it for an affront to look hairy. They have pinchers, which they make of cockle-fhells, and always have them about them, ufing them from time to time in converfation ; they thinking it as honoura- ble to be without that, which other people nourifh, comb, and take care of; which is a good convidlion of the variety of opinions of mankind, about what is, and is not ho- nourable. As for their hair, they let it grow juft below their ears, and no lower, and fo need no barber to cut it, but do every one help the other to keep the ends of it even. Their manner of cloathing themfelves, Their man- (though of various, and very beautiful co-w °f lours, which they give to the wooll that clo " thm S- they weave their cloaths of,) is very plain and fimple : they have no lining to any of their cloaths, neither do they wear one un- Vot. Ill, S der 66 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book III. OvALLE-der another : their drawers comedown to 1646. tne j r k n ees, open and loofe, and it is upon ■^*v v '^ their naked body ; for they ufe no ftiirts : they have a fort of waiftcoat, which they call Macun, and it is made of about a yard and a half of fome woollen fluff, which they leave open, fo as to put it over their heads, and then they gird it with a girdle : they have alfo a kind of cloak or mantle, which they call Chomi, which they put on when they go abroad : they have their arms and legs naked, and on their feet they have a fort of fhoe, which they call Ojota, and is like the rope Ihoes the Spaniards wear : they wear nothing on their heads, but a kind of circle of wooll, of various colours, with its fringes hanging down like a cap ; which they ftir or pull off in fhew of refpecl:, as we do our hats. Their fine- In their feafts, balls, and rejoicings, V' though they do not change the form of their cloaths, yet they have a richer fort, of finer wooll, and richer colours : they put about their necks fome chains of fhells, which they gather by the fea-fide ; thefe they call Nancas : others put fnail-fhells, fining upon a firing, about their necks •, and thofe of the ftreights of Magellan have pearls very well wrought, and of great ar- tifice, as is affirmed by the authors already cited ; and on their heads they put a kind of garland, not of flowers, but of wooll, dy'd of feveral beautiful colours, to which they hang fine little birds, which they ef- teem, and on each fide they have a plume of high feathers, either white, red, or blue, and about half a yard high. ibtir dan- Their way of dancing is with little jumps, ""&• and a ftep or two, not rifing much from ground, and without any capers, fuch as the Spaniards ufe : they dance all together in a ring, round a may-pole or ftandard, which one of them holds in the middle as an enfign ; and near it are all the bottles of their wine, of which they take now and then a fup while they dance, drinking to one another ; for it is a cuftom among them never to drink alone any thing that is given them : he that begins takes a fup, and then he that he drinks to pledges him, and gives the cup to another, and fo to a fourth, till it be empty ; and yet one has not more than the other ; for what this man does for that, that man does for this ; and fo at laft they come to be fo equally fhared, that at the end of the entertainment, they are all alike drunk, and laid down ; for they drink as long as they can ftand. But this is not eafily brought to pafs -, for befides what they drink in the day-time, they will of- ten pafs all night at it, without leaving off, finging and dancing to their drums and flutes. The women, as more bafhful, do not enter into thefe dances, except fome one or two, when the wine has got into T*»""w»» their heads, and then too they do not en- Mm f' mr ter into the ring with the men, but dance/ f «/?,. by themfelves. Few of them get drunk, fo as to lofe their judgment ; fo they are up- Their care on their guard more, to mind that thc { f' / ' eir men do not quarrel, and hurt one another in their drink. Their flutes, which they play Their mr.d upon in thefe dances, are made of the bones '"firumems of the Spaniards, and other enemies, whom ^"J' *f they have overcome in war. This they mies b ones , do by way of triumph and glory for their victory : they make them likewife of bones of other animals ; but die Indians of war dance only to thefe of their enemies. Their way of finging is, all together rai- fing their voices upon the fame note, with- out any difference of parts or meafure ; and at the end of every fong they play on their flutes, and a fort of trumpets, juft as we do on our guittars in the Paffacalles. This they repeat fo often, and fo loud, that one may hear them at a great diftance ; for in thefe feafts, they are very numerous. Thofe who are not engaged in dancing, fit to°-e- ther in feveral companies, talking together upon paft occurrences, and ftill warming themfelves with their wine ; and then they begin to recollect the injuries they have re- ceived from one another, and fo refrefh- ing the memory of old contefts and enmities not revenged ; and this makes them break out into new animofities, and fometimes kill one another upon little provocation. The women as well as the men have The womni their arms naked, but no other part about ''' them ; for though they go barefoot, yet their cloaths, which are very long, cover them from head to foot, though in fome places they wear them ftiorter : this is a plain fort of mantle, clofe to their bodies, without any linnen underneath ; this they let fall to their feet, and having faftened it on their fhoulders, gather it in plaits and fwath themfelves from their wafte to the breads with fome fine coloured-woollen fcarf, of about four fingers broad, and fo long, that it takes fo many turns about their wafte, as to keep their bodies as ftreight as any : this is all their drefs with- in doors. The indian women of the better fort, that live in towns among die Spaniards, have learned the ufe of fmocks and waiftcoats un- der their mantles, but of no other thing ; and one cannot affront an indian woman Trie mme more, than to offer to put her on head- hate head- cloaths, or necklaces, or fleeves, or gloves, drejfes, or any of thofe ornaments which the Spa- nifi women ufe ; and much more if they oblige them to put any paint upon their »ndpai»t.' faces ; nothing of this kind could ever pre- vail upon them, though born and bred among the Spanijh women ; and to talk to them Chap. 4. Kingdom of CHILE. 6 7 them of it, even to thofe among them who love to be fine, would be like giving them a cut over the face, fo great a horror they have for any thing that is fo very contrary / to their antient cuftoms. They wear no- thing on their heads but their hair plaited behind their moulders, and divided hand- fomely upon their forehead over their eye- brows, and have locks which cover part of their cheeks ; fo their face is handfomely and fimply adorned, without any artifice. When they go abroad, they put upon their moulders another half mantle, fquare, and fattened before with a bodkin, or crochet, which anfwers the two others on the fhoul- ders -, and thus they go abroad with their eyes fixed upon the ground ; for they are naturally very modeft honeft women. This manner of cloathing themfelves, with fo much fimplicity and plainnefs, as well in the women as the men, with fo lit- tle pride and vanity in their houfes, does Tewartifi- not much encourage artificers, who have cen ■, all little to do ; and by that means there are foUiers. ^ m0 re men of war, which is the thing in which thefe men place their honour and felicity, as other nations do in the fump- tuoufnefs of palaces and furniture, or in other riches and eminencies, either of arts or learning : of all which thefe Indians ne- ver had any notion ; and yet they learn them eafily, when they are taught them, Their way and to a great perfection. They can nei- ef keeping tner reac } nor wr Jt; e among themfelves ; but as to their way of remembering and keeping account, they have their Quipoes, which is a fort offerings of different bignefs, in which they make knots of feveral colours, by which they remember, and can give an ac- count of the things committed to their charge. With thefe they will give an ac- count of a great flock, and tell which have died of ficknefs or other accidents, and which have been fpent in the family, and for the fhepherds ; and they will tell every particular that happened in fuch and fuch occafions, and of what they did and faid. When they go to confefs, thefe Quipoes ferve them to remember their fins, and tell them with diftinction and clearnefs : they have befides excellent memories of their own, and do remember things of very antient date, juft as if they had happened but a little while before ; and when they begin to talk them over, (which happens general- ly when they drink, and begin to be warm- ed with wine,) 'tis wonderful how they will repeat things paft, with all their circum- ftances, and particularly affronts and inju- ries that have been done them, or their an- ceftors, refrelhing the memory of things that feemed to be quite forgotten. For proof of the care they take to keep the me- mory of remarkable paflages, I muft relate account. here what I learned from father Diego Torres Ovalle. Bollo, a very extraordinary man, both for yjjrj^", holinefs of life, and skill in government, v^*^ This great man returning from Rome (whither he had been fent as procurator of the province of Peru) to found the pro- vince of Quito, he faw in a place where four ways met an Indian, who, to the found A f m &f* r c j r ■ -u • T ' a y "J re- cti a drum, was finging a great many things M r m g all alone in his own tongue: the father cal- events. led one in his company, who underftood it, and ask'd him what that Indian meant by that action ; who told the father, that that Indian was, as it were, the regifter of that country, who, to keep up the memory of what had palled in/ it from the deluge to that time, was bound every holiday to re- peat it by the found of a drum, and fing- ing, as he was then doing. He was more- over obliged to inftruct others in the fame way, that there might be a fucceflion of men to do the fame thing after he was gone ; and that which he at this time is finging is, That in fuch a year there had been there An adJi- a white man called Thomas, who did great""" */"■" wonders, preaching a new law, which in '^"Z If time was loft and forgotten, &c. And thus the jefait . we may fee the manner by which the In- dians fupply the want of books and writings. The women of Chile are fo bold and manly in their courage, that when it is ne- cefiary, and that there is want of men, they take arms, and behave themfelves as if they were men. They play likewife at a very active game called La Chueca, wherein the men fhew their greateft agility and nimble- nefs, each fide ftriving to get a ball from the other, and carry it to the mark with crooked bandy fticks. They are about for- ty or fifty on a fide, who place themfelves in different polls, fo as to be ufeful one to another, and drive away the ball from the other party ; and when it happens that two of different fides are at it together, 'tis a pleafure to' fee them run, the one to forward it with another ftroke, and the other to get before him and hinder him from ftriking it, that he may drive it back to his own fide. This is a fport much to be feen, and gene- rally it has many fpectators to fee the end of the play, which often lafts a whole even- ing, and fometimes is forced to be put off" to another day, fuch contention there is to win thefe prizes they play for. The ftrength and boldnefs of the women rhehtrJ comes from the little tendernefs they are»<&««'«» bred with, for they avoid neither heat nor°f the m ~ cold ; and in the coldeft winters, when m birds are killed with cold, they wafh their heads in cold water, and never dry their hair, but let it remain wet, and dry itfclf in the air ; and as for their children, they wafh them in the rivers, when they are yet very young 5 and when they are brought to bed, 68 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book III. OVALLE.in a very little time they are about the 1646. houfe, as if it were not they, but fome other ^*~V^-' woman that had lain in. The Indian If the women behave themfelves thus, menshardt- w hat may we expe6t from the men? 'Tis a m fi'*ffi wonderful thing how little they fear wea- co ld. ther, though in the midft of winter ; and to fee 'an Indian, with that fimple habit we have defcribed, his head bare, without hat, or any other covering. I have feen them in this condition endure mighty mowers, which wet them all over, and came out at their breeches, and yet laugh and not value that, which to others would have been in- fupportable. I remember, upon this occafion, what was faid by a Spanijh gentleman, of a merry humour, to one newly come from Europe, who, with great charity, was pitying thefe poor Indians for their fufferings in winter, which in that country is very fevere. The gentleman asked the good father what he had to keep his face from the cold ? To which he anfwered, Nothing, becaufe every body's face was ufed to the weather.To which the gentleman replied, Thefe Indians are all face ; for from their infancy they have no defence againft the cold. Who is it that pities a trout, or other fifh, for being in the water, becaufe they are bred in that ele- ment ? The fame may be faid of thefe In- dians, who are like fifties, and are bred to all that hardfhip ; and fo we need not won- der at it. By thefe means they are fo har- Bear their dened, that a wound which' the braved wo " r > d < *«- Spaniard would take his bed for, does give Zlt\?£ them fo little trouble, that I have feen them go about without minding it. I have known them have a broken head by accident at play, and all they do is to warn it in cold watef , never leaving their employment or bufinefs ; and with this, and the application of their own herbs, which, indeed, are of great virtue, they are foon well ; but the excellency of their own conftitution helps not a little to their cure in wounds, as well as all other diftempers, out of which they get well with a great deal lefs time and care than the Spaniards. CHAP. V. Of other Qualities proper to the Natives of Chile. The people »/ Chile ■very pa- tient. A good ftory. 'Tis the cuftom in Spain to dance at procejjions. The corn- flexion of the Chile- nians. FROM this ftrong conftitution, comes the admirable patience of their minds, and the little fenfe they fhew of that which amongft us Europeans would be a great mor- tification. That which happened between an Indian and father Lewis ofValdivia is ad- mirable upon this fubjecf. The Indian came to confefs to the father ; who, to make him enter into a penance for his fins, ordered him to wear a Cilice, or hair-cloth upon his skin : it was a very hard one, and fuch as would have punifhed one of us feverely. The Indian put it on, and about a year af- ter, there was a procefiion of the holy fa- crament, at which he danced, e and feeing his confefibr in the church, he left his dan- cing, and came to him, flying, Look here how I have preferved what thou gav eft me a year ago, and fhewed it him upon his na- ked skin. The father was aftonifhed to fee, that what he gave him to mortify him, was turned to an ornament •, and asking him how long he had worn it, was anfwered by him, I have never left it off one minute fine e thou gav eft it me ; and fo returned to his dancing, fhewing his companions the pre- fent the father had made him, as pleafed with it, as if it had been a gold or filver brocade •, and fo far he was from taking it for mortification, or feeling its roughnefs, that he wore it for a favour given him by his father-confefior. Thefe Indians of Chile are the faireft com- plexioned, and whiteft of all America ; and thofe of the coldeft countries are the whiteft, as we fee in Europe ; but the very antipodes of Flanders never come to be fo white as the Flemmings ; and among all the Cbilenians, I do not remember a red-hair'd one ; for $„ re j they all, both men and women, have black hair. hair, and that very rough, and hard, and thick ; infomuch that the meftitos, or mun- grel breed of a Spani/h man and Indian wo- man, are known and diftinguifhed by that from the children of a Spanijh man and Spa- nijh woman ; and this will laft to the fecond and third generation before it foftens. There is little difference in any thing die, either of fhape, feature, or difpofition ; nor in the manner of fpeaking, or found of the voice : and as for the language, not only the meftitos, but the Indians bred among the Spaniards, are as ready at the phrafe and turn Theyfpeak of the Spanijh tongue, as any Spaniard. iSpanidi have made experience of this often in con-^^ *" felling them ; for the confeffionary is fo turn- ed, as the father-confefior cannot fee the wo- man that enters to confefs. It happen'd to me often to have an Indian woman come in after a Spanijh woman, and I could not find any difference, till fhe herfelf, finding I ufed her with that diftinction and civility due to Spanijh ladies, would humbly tell me fhe was but an Indian. The conftitution of thefe people is xhnxhif Bear caufe that time does not make fo ftrong an their years impreffion on them, as on us ; and they bear™'? velim their years mighty well, turning grey very late, at threefcore, or thereabouts ; and till then they look like young men. When they Chap. 5. Kingdom of CHILE. 6 9 they are over white, or have any baldnefs, you may guefs them at about a hundred : Live brig, they all live long, and particularly the wo- men •, and when by age they lofe their judg- ment, they ieldom falter in their memory, which lafts them to their dying day, even to remember all the particulars of their young days from their infancy. Their Good teeth, teeth and eyes are fo good, that they fel- dom lofe either; and, in fhort, all the in- firmities of old men, which are the fore- runners of death, come to them later than Cannct s». to other nations. But yet, if they happen dwe to to go out of their own country, they lofe ieave the,r all their vigour, as we experience daily in /r „ our pnion rs or war; who being lold to Peru, as foon as they feel the heat of t!:e tiOj ick, they fall fick, and moft of them die ; and tills is no more than what hap- pens to the Spaniards, when they come from th ir own climate to Porto Bella, or Pan.i- ma ; nay, the Sp,:ni rds born in Chile, ven- ture their lives that go to thofe countries that are between the tropicks. From this experi nee the Indians have of the hot countries, comes the great reluc- tancy they fhew to go out of their own, and the refentment they exprefs againft thofe who carry or fend them abroid ; and 'tis not to be imagin'd the Orange and rafh contrivances they have to make their efcapes from Lima; for though they have above five hundred leagues to go to their own home from Peru, yet they undertake it, and moft commonly compafs it, through a vaft number of dangers and inconvenien- cies. For firft, they are forced to go all along by the fea -fide, by which one may guefs how much they go about, fince they fetch the compaf, of all the bays and nooks, and double all the capes. The next inconvenience which they meet with, is want of food ; for they dare not enter any town, or inhabited place ; fo they are redue'd to feed on cockles and other fhell-fifh on the fea-fide, which is no very good nourifhment. The third difficulty is the paffing of fo many, and fuch fwift rivers. The fourth inconvenience is the want of water to drink ; for 'tis not poffible, that in fo great a journey, they fhould not fome- times mifs of frefh water to quench their thirft. All thefe difficulties, and many others, which are obvious to travellers, are overcome by thefe Indians by length of time and patience ; and they get at laft to their own country, and are out of flavery, not by the means of gold or filver, but by the bravery of their minds. The bold- The boldnefs of fome other Indians was nefsofiome vet more remarkable : thefe were carried in to avoid a mi P t0 be 1o1l ' as "laves at Lima, by a fimtry. Porlugv.efe gentlema n of the Habit of Chrill, Vol. III. who was going about things belonging toOvALLE. war, at the time that I went the lame voy- y J^ 1°- age : this navigation is made commonly ^1** in fight of the coaft, more or lefs, accord- ing as the winds ferve; but ftill they keep a good way out at fea, for fear of the ro^ks. Thefe Indians refolv'd among themfelves to throw themf Ives i.ito the fea, to avoid this flavery ; and one day, when they found the ffiip in a proportionable diftance to the fhoar, fo as they durft venture to truft to their fwimming, they got loofe very dex- teroufly from tneir fetters, ani Aid, with- out being perceiv'd, ' down by the fhip's fide into the fea ; and when they mifs'd them they were out of fight, and ib it was in vain to follow them. Among thefe pri- An odt foners there was an old man, who zitherftory. becaufe he was not trufted by the others, or b caufe they had not the opportunity of acqu Leting him wi h che defign, he not be- ing fhut up with them, but having the li- berty of the (hip as an old man, remain'd behind after they were gone. This Indian began to think of the thing, and to weigh with himfelf how i.i- companions had un- dertaken and perform'd an extraordinary aft ion -, he rtfl.ft d how they had arrived at their own land, and among their friends, who perhaps were enquiring about him, and that every body defpis'd him as a coward, and a man of little fpirit, fince he had not been able to overcome the adverfe fortune wl.ich the others had conquer'd, but had fubmilted to it : he reprefented to himfelf the welcomes and joys which their frknds exprefs'd, and the feafts and enter- tainments made for their return, and the embraces and careflts which they receiv'd from their relations. All this, I fay, made fuch an impreffon in his mind, and rais'd fuch an emulation, that he could not bear the reproaches he made himfelf, particular- ly feeing himfelf without a remedy. At laft, after much thought and penfivenefs, he came to a refolution, which was, to do fomethirg which fhould be bolder than what his companions had perform'd, and that in the manner of doing it ; for he re- folv'd to do it by day, in the fight of all the Spaniards ; and for a beginning, he de- fign'd to kill his mafter, not in the night, and without witnefles, as he might eiiWy 4 defpe- have done, but upon the deck, in the fight™' 1 of all thofe in the fhip, to get himfelf a greater name of bravery. To this end, he took one day, a great knife in his hand, and fell upon the captain ; and having wounded him in feveral places, with as much precipitation as he could, leap'd over- board with fo much fuddennefs, that he flipp'd away from thofe who endeavour'd to feize him. 'T is to be imagin'd, they were all wonderfully furpriz'd at the relbluteneis T of Indian. 7o Of the Nature and Properties of the Book III. OvALLEof the action: they immediately brought 1646. the fhip too, and put out the boat in all V"V" > "' the hate that could be to follow the Indian, who fwimming like a fifh, was already al- moft out of fight ; but they overtook him, and bid him yield himfelf a prifoner, fince he could not efcape ; and finding him ftill endeavour to get away, they (truck at him with their launces, but he dexteroufly avoid- ed all their ftrokes with great prefence of mind, diving and appearing again where they leaft expected him. Upon this they fir'd upon him, and wounded him in feve- ral places; but neither then did he yield, nor would ever had a thought of it, but the lofs of blood taking away his ftrength, had made him unable to get away, fo they brought him almoft expiring to the fhip, having more valued death with the reputa- tion of a brave man, than life with the in- famy of a coward, and the lofs of reputa- tion among his own people. This fact does not only fhew the bravery of the na- tion, but likewife their great averfion to go out of their own country, and how hea- vy a yoke they think fubjection to be ; and we fhall fee hereafter how much they have done to defend their beloved liberty. Now let us fpeak of fome other ctiftoms Their mar- thefe Indians have. They lblemnize their riages. marriages their own way, and in a very contrary manner to that of the Europeans ; for as to the portion, the woman does not provide it, but the man ; and neither of them enjoy it, but it pafies to the pro- priety and ufe ol the father of the young woman •, fo that the husband has a charge upon him of maintaining his wife without Daughters any help ; nay, rather with lefs ability, for are no km- ne p ar ts with fome of his fubftance to pur- rttbtrri. c ^ al " e ^ er ' *~° t * iat * n r ^ s countI T 'tis no eru an d Mexico. He was feconded in his opinion by Pojlel Goropio, Arias Montano, Antonio Pcffevino, Rcdrigo Tepes, Bofius, Manuel de Sa, and other authors, reported by Pineda, in his treaty de rebus Solomonis ; which makes father Martin del Rio, of the company of Jefus, fay, that this opinion is not without good grounds ; but he who de- fends it moft vigouroufly, is lather Gregory Garcia, of the order of St. Dominick, in his book De Indorum Occidentalium Origine, where he ftrives mightily to clear this opi- nion from all objections and oppofition. The things faid by thefe authors are not of fmall weight, though thofe who would make an inference from the word Peru's having a nearnefs to Pharvim, which is ufed by the feptuagint in 2 Chron. iii. where fpeaking of the gold with which So- lomon adorned his temple, they fay, that it was of gold of Pharvim, which in the vulgate is translated Aurum Probatiffimum, or moft pure gold, have againft them a powerful adverfary, to wit, Gareilaffo de la Vega, who affirms, that the name Peru is not the name of the land, but that the Spa- niards, endeavouring to inform themfelves of the country, took an Indian, whofe name Peru how was Beru ; and that asking him what coun- namtd. tr y diey were in, and he imagining they asked him his name, he anfwered Beru ; and the Spaniards thought he had faid Peru, and that that was the name of the country, which ever after was called fo. That which, in my opinion, confirms moft the belief of Ophir, is, that which Solomon fays of him- VOL, III. felf in the book of IVtfdom, That he knew the difpofition of the earth ; with which it feems that ignorance was incompatible •, and that he could not but be informed of that great and principal part of the world ; fo that we may conclude he knew how to fend his fleets thither, and bring home the riches of thofe parts : and this may be more pro- bable, if we confider the great defire he had of gathering together all the precious things from feveral parts of the earth, and the pureft gold, for the ornament of the temple and houfe of God -, for the gold of Valdi- via and Carabay being the pureft in the world, and the precious woods of odours that are in thofe kingdoms, and Paraguay and Brafd the fineft, it appears hard he fhould not ufe all diligence to have them, they making fo much to his end, which was to gather treafure and precious things. That he could do it, there feems no rea-R^M ff fon to doubt, fince we know he had a great k °°™° a ' and powerful fleet; and if this fleet fpent ,h e u»d of always three years from the time of its fet- America, ting out in the Red Sea, to the time of its return, as the interpreters of the fcripture all fiy, in what could they fpend fo much time, but in going to the utmoft bounds of the eaft and weft ? and, 'tis pofiible, went round the world, as the fhip Viclory did fince, in the fame time ; in which, the great Captain Magellan difcovered and paffed the Str eights of his name •, and fince we know, that the fleets of the catholick kings do, in our days, penetrate to the utmoft parts of the eaft and weft in lefs than a year's time, why could not the fame be done by thofe of fo powerful and fo wife a king as Solomon, who may be fuppofed to have underftood himfelf, and inftrufted his cap- tains and pilots in the art of navigation ? Neither is it improbable, but he might know the ufe of the loadftone, and the lea compafs, as fome authors do affirm he did. This is yet more confirmed by what we have obferved already about the knowledge and conjectures which the ancients had of this new world, of which he likewife could not be ignorant, but rather have a more particular infight into them, being himfelf fo perfect in the fciences of cofmography and geography, as well as hydrography ; all which he had by infufion from God Al- mighty, that he might fee into the errors of thofe who believed there were no anti- podes, nor that the torrid zone could be inhabited, denying the roundnefs of the earth, and other fuch miftakes. X Laftly, 78 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. Ovalle. Laftly, we know, that his fleets came to 1646. Syria, Phoenicia, Africa, and Europa ; and ^~^V to come to thofe coafts, 'tis certain, that c/Solo- if they fet out at the Red Sea, it was necef- moris fary for them to fail fouthward to double fleets. the cape of Good Hope, and then north, and pafs the equinoctial line a fecond time, as the Portuguefe do now in their voyages from India to Portugal. This being fup- pofed, and that Solomon had the knowledge of America, 'tis probable he was not unac- quainted with the communication of the North and South Seas by the Streights of Magellan and St. Vincent ; for Solomon being fo powerful, both by lea and land -, and fo well inftructed in all things, 'tis probable he caufed thofe fhores to be fearched, to find the communication of both feas, as it was fince done by men much inferior to him in every thing, which were Magellan, and Ja- cob le Maire ; or, it might be difcovered by fome fhips driven by ftorms into thofe parts, as fome fay it befel the firft difco- verers of America. This once fuppofed, thofe who under- ftand any thing of navigation, and the art of the fea, cannot but know how much more eafily a fleet, being placed at the cape of Good Hope in thirty fix, may fail fouth to the fifty fourth degree, where the Streights of Magellan lie, than to fail to the north above feventy two degrees, which it muft do from the cape to Europe : from whence may be inferred what I fay, that if it was true that his fleet came to Africa and Eu- rope, and entered the mediterranean fea, it was much eafier to go to Chile and Peru -, for from the Streights it might run before the wind all along that coaft ; and having taken in the gold, precious woods, filver, and other commodities, it might return by ihe fame Streights, as Pedro Sarmiento, and others, have done to the North Sea, and fo to the cape of Good Hope and the Red Sea : or, the fleet being in the South Sea, might fail weft to the Philippine iflands ; and from thence coafting along thofe parts we call the Ea.fi Indies, it might take in all the eaftern commodities ; and fo having gone round the world, return loaden with all the riches of eaft and weft, with pearls, diamonds, rubies, and other fine ftones, as alfo musk, amber, ivory, and other va- luable eaftern commodities -, and from the weft, with gold, filver, odoriferous woods, pearls, emeralds, fine dyes, rich and fine woolls, amber, and other riches, which were wanting to make up the opulency of Solomon. Neither ought this to be thought imprac- ticable, fince 'tis made out already in thefe books, how eafy the navigation would be from Chile to the Philippine iflands in two or three months : the conveniences of which navigation have been fet out in the fourth chapter of the fecond book ; and we do know how the fhip Vitlory did return that way, and fo have many others fince : by all which the poffibility of Solomon % naviga- tion is made out, and that within the com- pafs of the three years, in which they ufed to return to their port in the Red Sea ; and if it did not do this, it can hardly be ima- gined, how it could employ fuch a fpace of time. For thefe, and many more reafons of this nature, our moft learned Pineda retracts the contrary opinion, which he had publiihed in his commentaries upon Job ; becaufe, when he writ them, he had not lb well ex- amined, the grounds of the laft opinion, nor weighed all the authority and ftrength of conjectures that attend it ; and, indeed, fo far every prudent man would go, as not to defpife and contemn an opinion of which he believed the contrary, if it were maintained with probability, and by per- fons worthy to be hearkened to. Though, Reafons *- to fay truth, if I muft fpeak what I think, ^'"fl Solo-; that one reafon which I gave above againft™""^,-,^ the Romans having had knowledge of thofe vered Ame- parts, [which is,That it appears incredible, rica - that having once made the difcovery, and enjoy'd thofe mines, not only the commu- nication with them, but the very memory of them fhould be loft,] feems, in my opi- nion, to be as ftrong an argument againft Solomons fleet ; for if that did once over- come all the difficulties of that navigation, what caufe k could interrupt that commerce in fuch a manner, as that the total re- membrance of it fhould be abolifhed ? 'Tis true, that as to the Jews, they were a peo- ple who did not care to live in foreign parts, nor fettle among other nations, nor inhabit the fea coafts ; for God Almighty was un- willing, that by the communication with the gentiles, they fhould contract any of their cuftoms ; and therefore we do not know, that of all the race of their kings, any more than three went about any fuch thing, which were Solomon, who compaf- fed it, and Jofophat and Ochofias, whofe un- dertakings had no fuccefs. By which it may be inferr'd, that when Solomon died, and the temple was finifhed, this naviga- tion was neglected, till at laft it was quite forgot ; befides, that it appears from the Chronicles, and other places of fcripture, that in thofe times filver and gold were but little valued, the covetoufnefs of mankind not being arrived to the heighth it is at now a days : they did not think it worth leaving their houfes, to endure labour in the fearch of them, and run all thofe hazards which the voyagers to thofe parts do un- dergo. This therefore might take off the edge and defire which we fee in the Euro- peans, Chap. 4. Kingdom of CHILE. 79 peans, of continuing thofe voyages ; neither would they defire to fettle in thofe parts ; or if they did, the memory of them might be loft. See Padre Pineda, particularly in the fifth feftion of the fixteenth chapter, where he anfwers the arguments of the ne- gative opinion ; to which he gives very handfome folutions ; and in particular, to thofe who fay, that Solomon's fleet could bring nothing but gold and filver, as if this were nothing, or like ballaft ; and that this were not motive enough for him to fend his fleets, for a thing of which it appears he made fuch ufe, both for the temple and his own palaces ; fo that it does not feemOvALLg. poflible he could have it all from the eaft, l6 4£- but muft have recourfe to the weft, where v ^V > »o there was fuch a mafs of it, as is made out by what we have faid of the mines of Chile, and thofe of the Inga, with thofe trees, fruits, and plants of mafiy gold, and fta- tues of the fame metal in his gardens ; be- fides what they call Guafcas, where to this day they keep concealed a vaft ftore of thofe riches gathered together for the liberty of the Inga, when the Spaniards had him pri- foner ; all which may be feen in what has been faid already in feveral chapters. CHAP. IV. Of the c Di/covery of America : And by what means it was performed. A M O N G the hidden and wonderful fecrets of nature, we may reckon the Angular virtue of the loadftone, which has produced fuch wonderful effects, as they feem more the object of our eyes than of our faith, as men ; for who, if they did not fee it, could believe the experiments made every day, which furpafs all imagination ? See the curious and elaborate treatife of fa- ther Athanafius, Kirker, of our company, de arte magnetica ; for there the mod afpi- ring mind after curiofities will find all he can wifh about this matter, as well what is ancient, as what is modern, the whole treated with fo much erudition and clear- nefs, that the ftudy of it is not lcfs delight- ful than profitable. The fame fubject is alfo treated of excellently by father Nicholas Cabeo, of our company, in his book of mag- netica! philofophy. Among all the virtues of this rare ftone, I think that its quality of taking up iron is not fo admirable as that which it has had of drawing gold and filver to Europe from The mafs l n & a '■> tne ma ^ s °f which has been fo great, of filver that fome curious perfons having made a brought calculation in this matter, which they un- from Ame -derftood very well, and reckoning the mil- lions brought by the galleons and flotas, from the difcovery of the Indies to their time ; and having alfo computed the dif- tance between Europe and thofe parts, have found that there might have been made, from the one to the other, of bars of fil- ver, a bridge of a yard and a half wide ; fo that if all that metal could be found now a-days in any one place, it would make a mountain like that of Potofi, from which the greateft quantity has been fetch- ed ; and for that reafon it appears hollow, and bored through in fo many places. We may therefore fay of the loadftone, that gold has given it a virtue like that of faith, to tranfport mountains, not only from one place to another, but from one world to another, through thofe immenfe feas which feparate them. Who the firft man was that applied this virtue to facilitate navigation, it is hard to prove by authors ; for though we know that this ftone was known to the Jews, and to the Egyptians, yet who firft made ufe of the fea-needle and compafs, is very hard to find out. Some fay it came from China to Eu- rope : others, that it was found by the in- habitants of the cape of Good-Hope ; and that Vafca de Gama, met with fome of their veflels, when he made the difcovery of the cape, who ufed this inftrument : others give the glory of it to the Spaniards and Portuguefe : others to a man of the king- The invert dom of Naples, called John Goyas, of the tor 'f tht city of Amalfi, who was rather the man that ^ perfected this invention, being himfelf an experienced feaman. But let every one have his opinion, it is not my bufinefs to de- cide ; I only fay, that to this admirable virtue of the loadftone we owe the difco- very of America : for though fome authors fay, that Solomon's fleet failed by the obfer- vation of the ftars, the winds, the flight of birds, and other figns, with which they fupplied the want of this ufeful invention, not then known according to the common opinion, (though the contrary is not alto- gether improbable,) yet it muft be owned that the ufe of this fea-needle has been the thing that has facilitated the navigation, fo as the firft difcoverers, trufting to this, durft venture into vaft feas, and pafs the gulph which leads to that remote and unknown world, fo as to land in it ; which was a per- formance worthy of immortal memory to the man who undertook and executed it. This man was the moft famous captain Don Chriftopher Columbus, a Genoefe, whom the Spaniards in their language call Colon, who, though he were not, as he was, nobly defcended, might have given by himfelf nobility and fame to his defendants, and to 8« Of tie Nature and Properties of the Book IV. OvALLE.to his noble and illuflxious country ; for* if 1646. (his commonwealth had had only this fon, \^y>*> - lt m igh t draw fame enough from him alone, fince his generous and bold mind was ca- pable of overcoming all the difficulties which he met with in the project and exe- cution of this enterprize, the more to be efteemed by the great advantages procured by it to both worlds : to this, by that vaft increafe of riches, of which a great deal is confecrated upon the altars in churches, be- fides what is employed in the furniture of princes and great men : and to the other world, the benefit of the light of the gof- pel, by which it is fo much more poliihed and meliorated in all fenfes. Neither does that which GareilaJJb de la Vega, and others, do relate, any ways affect the glory of this great man, when they fay, that he undertook this defign upon the knowledge communicated to him by a man whom he entertained, and who died in his houfe as his gueft ; for we mull own that his chief praife does not come from what he knew of this new world before he under- took to find and conquer it, but from his generous mind and conftancy in purfuing his enterprize ; and this is all his own,which puts juftly the laurels upon his head, and makes his memory immortal in fpite of time and envy, though one would think no body Ihould have any for the common be- nefactor of two worlds. That which thefe T^7o/ autnors re i ate about this hiftory, is, That a who Me din pil°t, an inhabitant and native of the town tut houfe of of Guelva, in the county of Niebla, in An- Columbus. dalufia, called Alonfo Sanches de Hualva, or as others fay, Buxula, ufed to trade with a fmall vefTel to the Canaries ; and that one time, in his return to Spain, he met with a mighty ftrong Levant, which was fo powerful, that in twenty days he found him- felf in one of the iflands of the Weft-Indies, one of thofe which we call the Iflands of Barlovento, or the Windward I/lands, and 'tis judged it was Hifpaniola ; from whence, fearing to perifh for want of provifion, he returned to the Ifland of Madera, having endured fo much, that almoft all his com- pany died, and himfelf came in fuch a con- dition, that though Columbus, who loved fea-faring men, and for that reafon had cho- fen that iftand to live in, received him, in- to his houfe, and took great care of him, yet he died •, but before he died, being wil- ling to make fome return for the kindnefs received, he called Columbus to him, and left him, as an inheritance, the journal he had made, with the rhumbs of wind both going and coming, and all others his ob- fervations in the voyage, and about the place where he landed. This is thus related by GareilaJJo de la Vega, and father Jofeph d'Acofta, who fays, he does not know the name of this pilot who left this legacy to Columbus : and this he attributes to the particular providence of God, who would not have the honour of this difcovery be owing to any human in- duftry, but immediately and entirely to the divine majefty,to whofe difpofition we ought to attribute, fo much as appears contingent and cafual in this fhip's mifcarriage, from its courfe and all the other accidents attend- ing that ftorm, till the pilot was brought to die in the houfe of him whom God had chofen for a fecond caufe and chief inftru- ment of this enterprize ; who being of him- felf a great philofopher and cofmographer, compared thefe notions which he had from his dying gueft, with his own fpeculations which he had long had upon the fame fub- ject ; and this made him refolve to under- take what he afterwards accomplifhed. In order to this he began to confider of thofe who were likelieft to affift him ; and firft Columbus of all, he offered it to his own country, who^ffers his took it for a dream ; after this, to the kings ^fiovery u of Portugal, France, and England; and at p r ™°*" laft he addrefled this rich offer to their ca- Portugal, tholick majefties, for whom it was defign- *»d Eng- ed, from the beginning, by him who had re- la jJ d, )T. , refolved, in his providence, to amplify their Mr °M t,t ' monarchy by the addition of fo many rich and powerful kingdoms, as they have ac- quired in this new world. Ferdinand and Ifabella, who are worthy Ferdinand of immortal glory, having examin'd theWIfabei- grounds Columbus went upon, and the ho- la Mct f *• nour might be done to the crofs of chrift, and to the preaching of his gofpel, if this enterprize Ihould take effecl:, having fe- rioufly confidered of it for eight years to- gether, they commanded all necefiary pro- visions to be made, without fparing any charge, or minding the contingency of a defign fo new, fo difficult, and fo much without example. CHAP. V. Don Chriftopher Columbus fails from Spain in fear cb of the Nezv IVorld, IN the year of the birth of our faviour being the beginning of their greateft felici- 1492. upon the third of Auguft, about ties,) Bon Chriftopher Columbus, the moft half an hour before fun-rife, (the happieft famous Genoefe that ever was, failed from day that ever fhined upon our antipodes, as Spain, with_the title which he had received from Chap. 5. Kingdom of CHILE. 8c from Ferdinand and Ifabella, of admiral of the feas of all thole countries he fhould dif- cover and conquer ; fo leaving behind him the famous herculean Streigbts, as difdain- ing their Non-plus-ultra, and laughing at their pillars, he launch'd into the vaft ocean, and begun his navigation with no lefs con- fidence than admiration of thofe who faw him leave the fhore and fleer a courfe never before attempted, by new rhumbs of winds. Having touch'd at the ifland of Gran Ca- naria, he again failed from thence the firft Columbus of September, with ninety in company and h«d but provifions for a year. After fome days of ninety m navigation he began to find himfelf near the twejhipi. jpQpj^ f cancer, and under the torrid zone ; whereupon his men who had been bred in the temperate climates of Europe, being impatient of heats, which they never before had experienced, and wearied with feeing nothing but a vaft ocean without land, began to enter into diftruft of difco- vering any. 'At firft they murmured only between their teeth ; but at laft, fpeaking out boldly, they came to their captain Co- lumhits, and endeavoured by all means to difiuade him from purfuing his difcovery, as vain and without hopes of fuccefs ; and that it would be much better to return back to Spain ; but he with a generous mind be- ing deaf to all their perfwafions, purfued his voyage with conftancy. His men per- ceiving ftill how he went further from Spain, and that they had almoft worn out their eyes with looking out from the top- moft-head of the ftiip, without finding any appearance of land, renewed their inftances and reafons ; and that the more earneftly, by how much they perceived every day the confumption of their water and provifions ; calling now that temerity, which before they laid might be conftancy : for they al- ledged that the time was increafed, their provifions lefiened, the winds fcarce, and calms to be feared ; no land in view, its diftance not to be known nor guefied at ; that the danger was certain, and no avoid- ing to perifh, if. they ftaid any longer; therefore, faid they, let us fecure our lives, except we intend to be a fable and laughing- flock to all mankind, and looked upon as our own murderers. To fay truth, it cannot be denied but this was an urgent danger, and greater per- haps than can be imagined by thofe who never were in the like trials •, for when no lefs then life is at ftake, all dangers appear great, and particularly at fea: befides, thefe allegations were of themfelves of great con- fideration, and capable of fhaking the great- eft conftancy and valour ; yet the courage of the great Columbus was fuch, and fo Angu- lar his prudence, that fometimes diffem- bling, and fometimes taking no notice of •V-OL. III. what he heard, but talking to this marrOvALLE: and the other in private, and then comfort- I ^4 6> ing them all up in general, and giving them ^ %; . fome account of his well-grounded fpecula- tions, he fo fed them with hopes and expec- tations, (he himfelf fhewing no diftruft of fuccefs,) that he brought at laft his project to a happy iftue. They were following their voyage thus, through all the inconveniencies of heat, ready to ftifle them, when on a fudden a voice was heard crying Land, Land : they all flew to the prow and fides of the fhip, and fixed their eyes on the ho- rizon like fo many Argus's, to find out the land which feemed to appear like a cloud upon the fea. The defire of getting to it made fome doubt, if it were land or clouds ; but others were more confident : fome af- fure it to be low land ; others think they fee rocks, and a large extended fhore ; and all was but guefs, occafioned by the great diftance they were at fea from any land ; for in truth it was not land but clouds. And this was an invention of Columbus, their ad- miral, who feeing them almoft ready to mutiny, made ufe of this artifice to prevent the ill effects of their defpair, caufing this voice to be heard to give them a fhort joy, and amufe them. This fucceeded well for that time : he fleered his courfe towards this pretended land till night ; and when they were afleep he fet his prow to the weft, in fearch of the true land : but in the morning when it was day, feeing thofe clouds, which they took for land, vanifhed as it often happens in long navigations, they began to afflict themfelves a-new, and remonftrate to the ad- miral boldly to his face which I do not won- der at ; for befides the danger of perifhing with hunger, they found themfelves in a cli- mate fo fcorchingand fiery, that in the third voyage that the admiral made, they being becalmed eight days, about the fame place, were afraid the fun would have fet fire to their ihips •, for all his casks flew under decks, the hoops fmoaking as if they had been fet on fire, and the wheat was all in a ferment ; and the fait flefh was, as it were, boiled again, and flunk fo, that, to avoid infection, they were forced to throw it over- board. The admiral was thus purfuing his voyage, in which patience was his moft ne- ceffary habit, to endure the terrible perfec- tion of his own people •, when on the nth day of Otlober, of the fame year, it pleafed God to crown all his invincible fufterings, and the confidence he had in him, firft, by Signs of manifeft figns of land, which in fuch oc- '• cafions do generally put a flop to all com- plaints and afflictions, and are the begin- ning of joy and content, which ls followed with forgetting all paft fufferings. The ' Y firft s 82 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. OvALLE.firft thing they faw was" a bough of a tree 1646. new cu t, with its fruit on it, which though yY^ a kind of thorn, was a branch of olive to the inhabitants of this new ark ; another had feen green fifh, and fome pieces of wood floating ; all which were clear marks of land not far off, as to the navigators from India are the quantity of fea-weeds which meet them about ten leagues from the coaft of Spain. The joys which failors and paf- fengers fhew generally at the figns of land, the capers they cut, and embraces they make each other, with their congratula- tions to the pilot, their thanks to heaven, nay, the tears they flied, and devout prayers they make to God and the virgin Mary, in acknowledgment of their protection ; all thefe are not fo much matter for my pen, as for fight and fenfe. All this happened to the admiral's company, which not only for- got their fufferings, and the hatred they bore to the author of them, but they run and threw themfelves at his feet, as admi- ring and congratulating his conftancy, and begging his pardon for fo many hard thoughts, and as hard words, they had enter- tained, and let fly againft him : he received them all with embraces and marks of benig- nity, afluring them that by the end of that day they Ihould be within fight of land, and ^ , having faid this, he went upon the higheft part of the fhip's ftern, as being defirous to be the firft, that Ihould give them the good news of difcovering land. There was a rent of ten thoufand Mara- •vedies a year for the firft difcoverer, which made them all look out with great atten- tion ; fome on one fide, and fome on the other fide of the fhip, fixing their eyes where they thought it was moft probable to find land ; but it was about two hours before midnight, when admiral Columbus difcover'd a light, and calling to two offi- cers, Ihewed it them ; and prefently he per- ceiv'd that the light chang'd place, for it was a light carried from one houfe to an- other, as was known afterwards when they landed : they fail'd on towards that light, and about two hours after midnight they difcover'd land, which was at the fame time made by the other fhips in company,where- upon there were many claims for -the Albri- cias ; but at laft they agreed that the Al- bricias belong'd to the admiral, becaufe he firft difcover'd the light: this was confirm- ed by Ferdinand and Ifabella, king and queen of Spain, and fettled upon the fhambles of Seville, as the bell fund for the admiral. Herrera, the chronologifi, makes his re- flections upon this light, and moralizes up- on it, that it fignified the fpiritual light, which thofe nations wanted, and which was now brought to them from Europe by thefe difcoverers > as a proof likewife of the piety of the catholick kings, who having made war upon the Moon for three hundred and twenty years, had hardly finifh'd it ; but they put their fhoulders to this new con- queft, to fpread by their means the glory of the gofpel, and make the voice of it to be heard to the utmoft limits of the earth, making out by this manifeft proof, how firm fupports they were to the faith, fince they were conftantly employed in propaga- ting of it. Thus far Herrera : to which I may add, that the light Columbus faw in the middle of the night, was the tacit work- ing of reafon, which being buried in pro- found errors, did yet throw out fome fparks from under thofe afhes, and cry to heaven for the enlivening fpirit to deliver it, and by the means of Chrift revive it, fo as to enlighten that gentilifm, fo long over- whelm'd in darknefs, and for fo many ages paft buried, as it were, in the lhadow of death. Thus it was ; and as foon as day broke Columbus they landed : the admiral carried with him'"*'''' ani the royal ftandard fpread, the other captainsl^ po f~ ' having in theirs the banners of this con- queft, which were prepared, and had in them a green crofs crown'd, and round about the names of Fernando and Ifabella, to fignify the hopes that thofe princes had entertain'd to make fubjeft, and lay at the feet of the crucified Jefus, the crowns and fcepters of thofe powerful monarchs of that -new world; they themfelves having firft fubmitted their own, that there might be no crown, command, nor lordfhip, but that of the exaltation of the crofs. To this end, as foon as the admiral land- ed, kneeling down with all his company, he killed it once, and twice ; and lifting up his eyes to heaven, all in tears, he ador'd our Lord God of all things, who had brought him thither, thanking him for his favour, and doing homage to him in the name of thofe people,who were to be brought to his knowledge ; in fign of all which, and the pofieffion he then took, he call'd that ifland Saint Salvador : he.raifed alio a moft ° ne °f <** beautiful crofs, which was a declaring war )^ n ^ s cal ~ to hell, to make it renounce the pofieffion ick. of that land, which for fo many ages it had tyranniz'd over. The admiral being rofe up, they all ap- proach'd, and not only embrac'd him, but carried him upon their fhoulders in tri- umph, as having perform'd the greateft work that ever man attempted, or brought to pafs. Immediately after this, the admiral, in prefence of a notary, took pofieffion of that land in the name of their catholick majefties, and caus'd himfelf to be own'd as viceroy, and as luch they began to own him, and obey him in all things. This Chap. 6. Kingdom of CHILE. 83 This ifland, which we fhall call Saint Salvador,wa.sa.hout fifteen leagues in length, very woody, and having good water, with a lake of frefh water in the middle of it, and well inhabited by the Indians, who call'd it in their tongue Guanaani; and itOvAtt-E. is one of thofe which fince have been call'd 1646- the Lucaicks. It is nine hundred and fifty Vw ^V^ / leagues from the Canaries. CHAP. VI. W HEN the Indians faw fuch great bulks in the fea, with great fails, and the whole unlike their canoos, and they were drawn near the lhore, they remain' d aflonifh'd and befide themfelves, becaufe tho' by their motion they guefs'd them to be li- ving things, yet for their bignefs they took them for fome flrange fea-monfters, never feen before on thofe coafts. The fhips came to an anchor clofe by the fhore, and the admiration of the Indians increas'd ftill fo much the more, feeing white men come out of them with beards and cloaths j yet they didjiot run away, but drew near with- out fear, the rather when they faw that the Spaniards began to prefent them with bells, needles, and other things of Europe, which pleas'd them extremely, as being new to them: in return they gave the. Spaniards Cold, Provifions, and other things of their country : they came fome in their canoos, and fome fwimming to the fhips, where it was wonderful to fee how they valued every thing, even to the bits of glazed difhes, or broken earthen ware, that lay about the fhips, which they gather'd up as jewels which they had never feen. And to fay truth, mofl things borrow their value from their rarity ; and for this reafon they had as little value for gold and pearls, which were things very common among them, they ex- changing whole firings of pearls, and fome of them as big as peafe and fmall nuts, for needles and bells, as happened in the I/lands of the Margarita ; fo great is the difference in the eflimation of things common, or rare ones. The admiral having here got an ac- count of fome other IJlands, went out to difcover them •, and the fecond he found he nam'd Santa Maria de la Conception, dedi- cating it to the queen of heaven : the third he call'd Fernandina, of the king Don Fer- nando : the fourth he nam'd Ifabella, in confideration of his miftrefs queen Ifabella. Of all thefe he took pofTeffion in the name of their majefties, by letting up their royal ftandard before a publick notary, with the fame folemnity and ceremonies obferv'd in the taking poffeffion of the firfl IJland. Cuba iif- On a Saturday, the 29th of Otlober, they difcover'd the famous IJland of Cuba, where the Havana is : there the Indians, frighted to fee the Spaniards, whom they thought defcended from heaven, went to them kif- fing their hands and feet. The admiral's laft difcovery was of the IJland call'd Hif- paniola, where he met with a great deal of gold, and fome birds and fifhes, like thofe of Cajlile. Here the cacique Guacanagari received him with much humanity ; and in his land he made the firfl Colony, or fettle- ment of Spaniards, which he nam'd the city of the Nativity. The Spaniards generally were receiv'd in thefe and other the Barlovento IJlands, and on the coafls of terra Jirma, with much love and kindnefs, very few of the Indians offering to refill them. On the -contrary, they all were pleafed with their coming up- on their lands, furnifhing them with all that the country afforded, and prefenting them with gold, pearls, parrots ; content- ing themfelves with a return of a very fmall value. Of the European things, thofe they feem'd mofl to mind, were needles ; and at firfl they could not imagine what they were good for •, but being told they were to few, they anfwered they had nothing to The fimplh few ; but yet they kept them, becaufe they cit yf ,f " had never feen any thing of iron or fleel. ndians ' They were much furprized at the ufe of fwords, and particularly when they had ex- perienced their fharpnefs ; for at firfl they us'd to take hold of them by the edge with great fimplicity. The admiral, as viceroy of thofe new kingdoms, began to govern, as he difco- ver'd them ; and that he might regulate them the better, by confulting their majef- ties in his doubts and difficulties, he made two voyages backwards and forwards to Spain, flill making in his returns difcovery of fome new IJlands, and amplifying the monarchy, as hiflorians do relate at large, to whom I refer myfelf, not to engage in matters which are far from my fubjecli but I cannot but make fome reflection up- on what happen'd to this great man. Who would not have thought, confidering the happinefs with which he had executed all that he defign'd, in the mofl difficult fub- jec~l in the world, that he was eternizing his felicity, and putting fortune under his feet ? But that no one may flrive to do it, but that all may know how conftant is her volubility, and how perpetual the motion of her wheel, and that there is no human power, nor liar, can fix it, I will relate here briefly what befel him. Let him who governs be undeceiv'd once for all, and know, That to fit upon a throne, and take poffeffion of power, is to be a mark 84 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. OvALLE-mark for the cenfure of the good and bad 1646.' to aim at; 'tis juft putting himfelf into the y^Y^ hands of anatomifts, to be taken in pieces, and examin'd to the very bones •, and very often envy opprefles innocence by feigned accufations: this is not the place to examine that of the admiral; 1 only know that there were fo many complaints, and fuch appearances of mifdemeanors alledg'd at court againft him ; as, that he did not ad- vance the converfion of the Indians, but make them work to get gold, defiring more to make them (laves than chriflians ; and taking no care to maintain them, and fuch other imputations, as mov'd their catho- lick majefties to fend the commander De Bobadilla to examine the truth of what was alledg'd, and to do juftice in requifite cafes; writing at the fame time a kind letter to the admiral, that he mould let the com- mander execute their orders. But he exceeding his commifiion, and the intention of their majefties, took all the informations againft the admiral and his brothers, and without hearing them, made himfelf be own'd for judge and governor, giving rewards, and publifhing, that he came to relieve the oppreiied, and to pay their falaries, and put all things in good order. This drew over to him all thofewho had any grudge to the admiral, and mod of the common fort fided with him ; fo he entered into the houfes of the admiral and his brothers, feized their goods and their papers; all which he might fafely do, with- out any refiftance, for the admiral was away : he fent to feize him and his brothers, put- ting irons upon their feet, and fo fhipping them into a vefiel, call'd a Caravel, he fent them away for Spain, to give an ac- count of themfelves. When they came to put irons upon the admiral, there was none fo bold as to do it, Columbus out of the refpect that all had for him ; and in irons, jf ne had not had in his family a rogue of a cook, who was villain enough to do it, they had not found any one to execute fo barbarous a command. When Columbus faw himfelf put in chains by his own fer- vant, 'tis faid, that fhaking his head, he pronounced thefe words, full of refentment for his ufage ; [Thus the world rewards thofe who ferve it ; this is the recompence that men give to thofe who trujl in them. Have the utmoft endeavours of my fervices ended in this ? His fingu- Have all my dangers and fujferings deferv' d !«* *xp r 'f- no more ? Let me be buried with thefe irons J'"" s J° r "' tofhew that God alone knows how to reward and be/low favours, of which he does never repent ; for the world pays in words and pro- mifes, and at laft deceives and lies.'} Having faid this, the fhip fet fail -, and as foon as he came to Spain, their majefties, when they were inform'd of the prifon of the admiral, were much concern'd ; for by no means, had that been their inten- tion. They fent for him to come before them ; but his tears and fighs were fuch, that in a great while he could not fpeak ; at laft he faid, alluring their majefties of his great zeal for their royal fervice, which had always been his guide, that if he had fail'd in any thing, it was not out of ma- lice, nor on purpofe, but becaufe he knew no better. Their majefties comforted him, and par- ticularly the queen, who favour'd him moft ; and after fome time, in which the truth of the matter was made out, they or- der'd, That all that the commander Boba- dilla had confifcated of the eftate of the ad- miral and his brothers, Ihould be reftor'd to them •, as alfo, that the capitulation with them fhould be obferv'd, as to their privi- leges and exemptions. After this, the ad- miral return'd a fourth time to the Indies, in an honourable way ; and employing him- felf in new difcoveries, he arriv'd upon the coaft of the terra frma of America, the fe- cond of November, 1502. and coafting along by Cubija, arriv'd at the port ; which, be- caufe it appear'd fo good a one, and the country fo beautiful, well cultivated, and full of houfes, that it look'd like a garden, he call'd Puerto Bella, or the Fine Port, having difcover'd other iflands in the way, and endur'd very bad ftorms. At laft re- turning back by fome of thole places which he had difcover'd, taking, as it were, his leave of them, and returning to Spain, to order there a better fettlement of affairs, he died at Valladolid, where the court was, Columbus making a very chriftian end, and great figns of his predeftination. Jiving dies at Val- ladolid. CHAP. VII. After the 'Death of Columbus, the Caftillians pirfue the 'Difcovery and Conqueft of the new World. AMONG thofe who accompanied the admiral in his firft difcovery, there was one Vincent Tanes Pinzon, who being a rich man, fet out four veflels at his own charge. He, at his return to Spain, fet fail from the fame port of Balos upon new difcoveries : he firft came to the ifland of St. J ago, which is one of the Cape Verd iflands: he fet fail from thence the thir- teenth of January, in the year 1500. and was the firft who pafs'd the equinotlial line, by the north fea, and difcover'd Cape St. Auguftin, Chap. 7. Kingdom of C H I L E. 85 ■Auguftin, which he call'd the Cape of Con : folation, taking pofTeffion of it for the crown of Caftile ; from thence he found the river Maraguon, which is thirty leagues over, and fome fay more at its entrance, the frefh wa- ter running forty leagues into the fea ; then coafting towards Paria, he found another river very large, though not fo broad as Maragnon : they took up frefh Water out of it, twenty leagues at fea. He difcover'd in all a coaft of fix hundred leagues to Pa- ria, and loft two fhips in a terrible ftorni that he endur'd. We have feen alfo in the laft chapter, that Columbus had difcover'd the ifland of Cuba, though he could never fail round it, being hinder 'd by the ftorms and ill weather ; fo he died without know- ing whether it was an ifland, or no, for he judged it to be rather a point of fome con- tinent ; but it is a very large ifland, with many fair ports, and mountains full of pre- cious odoriferous woods of cedar, ebony, and many others ; and there are in it feve- ral cities of Spaniards, and among the reft Tbt Hava-the ftrong fortrefs of the Havana, which is na - a Scala or rendezvous for the galleons and flotas, loaded with filver from the Wefi Indies : this is one of the beft fortifications the king of Spain has in all his dominions. But. in my opinion, that which makes this ifland moft valuable, is, the good nature and docility of thofe who are born in it ; which was a product of that foil before ever the Spaniards trod it, as they fhewed to Columbus, and thofe who came after him, receiving them with all kindnefs and humanity. To further what the admiral Columbus had begun, God raifed an inftrument in the perfon of Vafco Nunnes de Balboa, one of the firft difcoverers of this new world ; a man of a good underftanding, as he fhewed up- on the occafion which I fhall now relate. He was, with others, upon the difcovery with general Encifo, the governor: they came to a place call'd Uraba, and as they enter'd the port, by negligence of thefteerf- man, the governor's fhip ftruck upon a fand, and was loft, nothing being faved out of her but the lives of the men, who got into the boats, but naked, and in danger of perifh- ing for want of provifion. Vafco de Nunnes faid, That he remember'd there was not far off a river, the banks of which were inha- bited by much people: he guided them thi- ther ; and the thing being found to be as he had faid, he gain'd great reputation among them all. They came thidier, and found the Indians in arms againft the Caftilians, whofe name was already become odious to thofe nations : they made a vow to our lady, to dedicate to her the firft fettlement and church to the honour of her image, under the title of Sancla Maria la Antigua, or the Vol. III. ancient Si. Mary, which to this day is ve- Ovalle, nerated in Seville ; and to fend her many J^^-, rich gifts of gold and filver, which one of them, as a pilgrim, fhould carry in the name of the reft. Being encourag'd by this vow, they fell upon the Indians, and ob- tain'd the victory. Prefently they made a fettlement, and built a town, dedicated to the virgin, cal- ling it Sancla Maria el Antigua of D air en, becaufe that was the name of that river. After this, to accompli fh their vow, they fent the promis'd prefents to the devout image of the virgin. The good Opinion of Vafco de Nunnes in- creating thus daily, and having cunningly order'd it fo, that Encifo refign'd his go- vernment, they chofe Vafco Nunnes in his room: at firft, with ah afibciate; but he found means in time to be alone, as it was neceffary he fhould, in point of command, being to overcome fuch difficulties as were to be met with at every turn : and, indeed, he knew how to make himfelf be both fear'd and belov'd, having a very good fpi- rit of government. In the new difcoveries he undertook, he came firft to the lands of the Cacique Ponea, and not finding him at home, he deftroy'd them : he pafs'd on to the lands of the Cacique Careta, who not caring to enter into war, receiv'd him peace- fully, and treated him as a friend. This Cacique Careta had a kinfman, who was a lord, diat liv'd further in the country, and his name was Suran; who perfuaded another neighbouring prince, call'd Comagre, to make a friendfhip with the Caftilians : this prince had a very fine palace, which afto- nilh'd them; and particularly when they faw, in a kind of chapel or oratory, fome dead bodies lying cover'd with rich man- tles, and many jewels of gold and pearls ; and being ask'd whofe bodies thofe were, they anfwer'd, of their predecefibrs ; and that to preferve them from corruption, they had dried them with fire. The king ca- refs'd the Caftilians, and gave them great prefents: he had feven ions, and one of them, more liberal, gave the Spaniards a prefent of near four thoufand Pefos of fine gold, and fome pieces of rare workman- ihip : they weigh'd it, and taking the king's fifths, they began to divide the remainder. In the divifion, two foldiers fell out about their fhare : the Cacique's fon, who had made the prefent, hearing the noife, could not bear it, but coming to them ftruck the balance where the gold was weighing, and threw it all upon the ground, faying, " hjimUtre- " it poffible you fhould value fo much a/"™/*/ " thing that fo little deferves your efteem?^ j pa " " and that you fhould leave the repofe of V etonf»efi. " your houfes, and pafs fo many feas, ex- " pos'd to fuch dangers, to trouble thofe Z * who 86 Of tie Nature and Properties of the Book IV, Ovaixe." who live quiet in their own country? 1646. '* Have fome fhame, chriftians, and do not ^*y~*J « value thefe things : but if you are refol- " ved to fearch gold, I'll fhew you a coun- " try where you may fatisfy yourfelves." And pointing with his finger to the fouth, he told them they mould fee there another fea, when they had pafs'd over certain high mountains, where they mould fee other peo- ple who could go with fails and oars as they did ; and that pafiing that fea, they mould meet with vaft quantities of gold, whereof the natives made all their utenfils; and that he would be their guide, and conduct them with his father's vaflals ; but that it would be requifite they fhould be more in number, becaufe there were powerful kings, who could hinder their paflage : giving them by this the firft notice of Peru and its riches. Thefirft This was the firft knowledge and light notice of which the Spaniards got of the South Sea, and tht South Q f t ^e gold and riches of its coafts, which rkhes! " S ave mem a H g reat )°Y > f° tnat tnev were impatient to fee the hour of breaking tho- rough all obftacles, to fee that fea never be- fore heard of, and enjoy the riches of it. Vaf- co Nunnes immediately difpofed all things, and went out of Dairen, in the beginning of September, in the year 151 3. and going along the fea-fide, to the habitation of the friendly Cacique Careta, he went towards the mountains by the lands of the Cacique Ponea ; who, though at firft he endeavour'd to op- pofe their paflage, yet being advis'd by the Indians of Careta, who accompanied the Caftilians, he prefented them with gold and provifions, and gave them guides ; they, in return, giving him looking-glafles, needles, knives, and other baubles, which they va- lued very much. Then they began to mount the mountain through the country of a Cacique, call'd §uareca, who appear a in arms, and attack'd the Spaniards : he had a long robe of cotton, but all his men were naked. They began to skirmifh,and threaten by their actions, to hinder the paf- fage ; but no fooner did they hear thenoife, and feel the effects of the muskets, and find fome to fall, but they turn'd their backs, flying like a herd of deer, frighted to fee the fire, and hear the found of the vollies, which appear'd thunder to them, and thought the Spaniards had thunderbolts at their command ; fo they left the paflage free for them. The Indians of Careta had faid, that from their country to the top of the higheft mountain, there was the time of fix funs ; for by that they meant fo many days journey •, but the ways were fo bad, that they employed five and twenty days to get to the top. A little before they were at the higheft, Vafco Nunnes de Balboa caus'd a halt to be made, defiring to have the glory of having himfelf been the firft man that J ever faw the South Sea. And fo it was : he Va fa> goes alone, difcovers that vaft ocean, and ^ unn '"' the large bays of the South Sea, call'd Pa-Jgd "if tht cifick; and upon his knees, with tears in his South Sea, eyes, lifts up his eyes to heaven, giving thanks to the great creator of all things, for having brought him from fuch remote parts to contemplate that which none of his an- ceftors had ever feen : he made a fign after this to his companions to come up, and fo they all run in hafte, pufhing one another on ; and when they were on the top, where there is a full profpect of the fea, 'tis not to be imagin'd the content they all receiv'd in admiring that vaft and fmooth liquid chryftal, which not being animated, did not on its fide give leaps of joy, nor go out of its bed to the tops of the moun- tains to welcome thofe who came to deli- ver it from the tyranny the devil exercis'd over it, by infefting it with ftorms and tem- pefts, and infecting the air with the breath of idolatry, which was breath'd in all thofe parts, both eaft, weft, north, and fouth. Oh ! if all the creatures of that world could have come one by one to fee the good that was coming to them by means of the gof- pel, which dawned in thofe mountains; or, if the predeftinated of that new world could have viewed from their cottages, and poor habitations, or rather from the deep nighr. of their errors and fins, the fun that was beginning to enlighten them from that high mountain, and the virtue and efficacy of grace, which then began to appear to re- concile them with God, and the blood of Chrift, which like a great river was falling through thofe precipices, till it fhould bath the utmoft parts of the earth, and give life to thofe, who, being fallen and cover 'd with the dark lhadow, did not only not hope for life, but not fo much as know it ; how would the children have leap'd out of their cradles, who, to go into paradife, expected nothing but baptifm, as has happened to great numbers, who juft expired when they were made an end of baptizing ? and the old men, who wanted only the knowledge of the gofpel to ftmt their eyes, and being reconciled to God, fly into his glory, how they would open them, and lying upon the ground, fly, at leaft, with their fpirit if they could not with their body, to receive the preachers of the gofpel, who brought peace and a general pardon for their fins ? All the other predeftinated, every one ac- cording to his ftate, who have by this means been faved, (which are infinite,) how they would melt and cry with joy, to hear this news, which is as welcome to them, as that of the coming of Chrift to the holy fathers in limbo, who were expecting ic with fuch languifhing defires. CHAP. Chap. 8. Kingdom of CHILE, 87 CHAP. VIIL OVALLE. . 1646. Bafco Nunnes de Balboa purfues the 'Diftovery of the South Sea, and dies, W-y^ BAfco Nunnes de Balboa, having perform- ed his devotion, and thanked our Lord, with all his companions, for fo great a favour done them, as to bring them to that place, and for the favour he was about to fhew to that new world, by the means of the preachers of the gofpel, to whom he thus opened a way to publifh it ; he then bethought himfelf of his fecond obligation, which was to his king ; in conformity to which, he took poffeffion, in his majefty's name, for the crowns of Caftile and Leon, of the place where he was, and of the fea which he difcover'd from thence ; cutting for this purpoie many trees, and making great croifes, which he fet up, and writ upon them the names of their majefties. After this they began to go down from the mountain, marching always prepar'd for any encounter that they might have with the Caciques in their way ; fo, though the Cacique Chiapes oppos'd them with his peo- ple, who were flout and many, yet by fet- ting the dogs at them, and beginning to fire their muskets, they were foon routed. This made the Cacique offer terms of peace, and receive and make much of the Cafti- lians, prefenting them with gold ; and he prov'd fo good a friend, that he pacified many other Caciques, who were in arms, to hinder the paffage, who likewife made their prefents of gold. From the town of Chiapes, Bafco Nunnes fent out, todifcover the coafts of the South Sea, the captains Francifco Pizarro, Juan ie Efcara, and Alonfo Martin, each to a different place : this lafl found two canoes dry on the fhoar, and the fea below them above half a league : he wonder'd to fee them fo far from the fea ; and as he was confidering it, he perceiv'd the fea coming very faft in, and did not ftay long before it fet the canoes on float : he enter'd into one of them, and took witnefs that he was the firft European that had ever been upon The tUes tnat f ea . The tides on that coaft ebb and wry r*Mfl ow eyery fix nourSj fo as g reat fhips will be left on fhoar, the water retiring fo faft, that it gives great admiration when it re- turns, to fee fo great a fpace cover'd fo faft, that it appears an inundation. Bafco Nunnes having advice of this, came down alfo to the coaft ; and going into the fea up to the mid-leg, with a naked fword in his hand, faid, That he took pof- fefTion of it, and all the coafts and bays of it, for the crowns of Cajlile and Leon ; and that he was ready with that fword, as of- ten as it fhould be neceffary, to make good that claim, againft all that fhould oppofe him. The Indians were in great amaze at this new ceremony, and they were more furpriz'd, when they faw him, againft their advice, and that of the Caciques, venture to crofs the gulph of Pearls, to difcover the riches of it in that commodity ; though it had like to have coft him dear, for he was near perifhing in croffing that arm of the fea. Now let us fee (in order to un- deceive thofewho fhall read this J how lit- tle this courage and boldnefs avail'd this generous conqueror of the new world, and the great things his invincible mind had brought to pafs. All his military prudence and cunning, by which he made himfelf be refpeclred by unknown nations, avail'd him little ; for this fo fortunate a great captain had a tragical end : he loft his life in Dairen at his return, finding there the governor Pedrarias, who came to fucceed him. The king in fending this man had recommended to him the perfon of Bafco Nunnes de Bal- boa, and order'd him to make ufe of his council, as of one who had honour'd him Tf " l*rb&, by his bold undertakings, and to whom for s^ia'ds a reward he order'd the governments of Pa- one to tnat was ' n tne chriftian camp, who the poor In- ufed to tall upon them like a lion; and dians. they having never feen an animal of that fort, did flee him as a devil, becaufe of the mifchief he did amongft them ; for they being naked, he could faften any where without danger. The Chiapefes, our friends, prefently interpofed ; and telling the king what dangerous enemies the Spaniards were, and of what importance their friendihip was, they being invincible, he at laft was prevailed upon to grant them peace. They came to his palace, which was very fump- tuous, and, as they judged, better than any they had feen yet. The king received them 1 with marks of friendihip ; and, as a token * earlj "f * of it, caufed a basket of rufhes full of pearls, ^T which weigh'd five marks, to be given ' them ; amongft which, there was one which had but few fellows in the world, (for it weighed fix and twenty carats, and was as big as a fmall walnut,) and another as big as a mufcat-pear, perfect and oriental, and of a fine colour, weighing ten half fcruples. The firft came from hand to hand, till it was in the emprefs's, who valued it as it de- ferved, as is told by Antonio de Herrera and others. They prefented the king, in return, with the ufual prelents of pins and needles, bells, knives, and other baubles of Europe, which the Indians valued much. The Spaniards not being able to forbear laughing, to fee the value they put upon them, the king faid to them, What do you A wife n3 laugh at ? And having heard what it was, f rtee °f an he faid, We might more jujlly laugh at you, m * mkm& ' for "valuing things fo much which are of no ufe in life, and for which you pafs fo many feas. As for thefe knives and hatchets you give, us, they are very ufeful inflruments to men. This was not the only return the king had for his pearls •, for he had the precious pearl of faith by their means : for growing very fond of them, and being by them inftruc- ted, he and all his family received the chrif- tian religion, which was the principal end to which the Caflilians directed all their en- terprizes. They made a folemnchriftening; and the king, to treat his fpiritual fathers, who had engendered him in the gofpel, car- ried them to fee the pearl-fifhing, which was in this manner : The Indians dived The pearl' to the bottom, having about their necksA/^'^- a bag full of ftones, that they may fink the fafter ; and it ferved them for a ballaft to keep them fteady while they gathered the oyfters, that the water might not buoy them up. The greateft oyfters are about ten fathom deep ; for when they do not go to feed, they keep as low as they can, and ftick fo faft to the rocks, and to one ano- ther, that it is very hard to loofen them ; nay, it happens ibmetimes, that while they fpend too much time in doing it, their breath fails them, and they are drowned : but, generally fpeaking, they are not in danger, becaufe, as they gather the oyfters, they Chap. io. Kingdom of CHILE. 8 9 they put them in their bag, and lighten it of the ftones, and before their breath fails they come up again with their fifh. They open the oyfters, and take out the pearls, which ufe to be many if they are fmall, and few if they are large. They fay that among thofe they prefented die C aft ilia ns at this rime, were feveral of the bignefs of large Ovalle. peafe and hazle-nuts ; with which they re- J^"^ - turned very well pleafed to have made a ^^V^" difcovery of fo rich a treafure, as well as of the rich one they had given in exchange to the king and his people, by making them chriftians. CHAP. X. Of the T)ifcovery of the River of Plata, and the Coafls of Chile, by the Streights of Magellan. w E have hitherto gone by the north fea to the terra jirma, and the dif- covery of the South Sea, with intent to fol- low the difcoveries or this new world to its utmoft bounds, which is the kingdom of Chile, to which all this narrative is directed. "We fhall follow this order by the fame fteps that the firft conquerors went •, but while they are difpofing all things for this great enterprize, it will not be amifs to leave the South Sea, and follow thofe who endea- voured to difcover the coafts of Chile by the North Sea. The firft we fhall follow is captain Juan Diasde Solis, who failing from Spain the eighth of Otlober, 1515. run along the coafts of Brafil, till he difcovered the T»eRio def amous river of Plata, which was fo nam'd, la Plata Aif- not from any filver that is found near it, or severed on i ts banks, but from fome plates of that ***' metal which the Indians gave the Spa- niards ; which filver they had brought from the country about Potofi, with which they had communication by the means of the Tucuman Indians, who are the neareft on that fide to Peru. Solis entered that migh- ty river, which, if I am not miftaken, is threefcore or feventy leagues over at its firft entrance, and is known at fea by its frefh water, at firft, till being further in, they can fee the mountains and lands that bound it. This river is one of the moft famous in the world, of fweet and excellent wa- The virtue ter » being obferved to clear the voice and of the we- lungs, and is good againft all rheums and R °Q' J \ defluftions > ar >d all the nations of the Pa- Plata. raguays, who drink this water, have admi- rable voices, fo tunable, that when they fing they appear organs •, and therefore they are all inclined to mufick ; and thofe who come from abroad mend their voices by living there. I knew one who was born in Chile, and had naturally a good voice, which he mended extremely by living in Paraguay ; but when he left that country, and came to Tucuman, he loft his improve- ment, as he himfelf told me. This river has another property, which is, that it pe- trifies the branches of trees which fall in- to it. The governor Hernan Darias, born in Paraguay, a gentleman of a lingular ta- V'OL.III. lent for government, had in his houfe a whole tree all of ftone, which had been ta- ken out of this river. Likewife there are formed naturally of the fand of this river, certain veflels of various figures, which have the property of cooling water. There are alio certain cocos de terra, which contain ftones in them, which at a certain time are, as it were, ripe, and burft, difcovering amethyfts within them ; they burft open with a great noife. There are alfo bred upon its banks moft beautiful birds of feveral kinds ; and in its ftreams great variety of fifhes, very dainty, and in great quantity. The river is navi- gable every where in canoes, but not with the fame canoes , becaufe of the prodi- gious fall that is in the midftof it, the whole/,, £,#, river precipitating itfelf into a deep gulph, from whence it runs many leagues, till it empties itfelf into the fea. The noife that this fall makes, the foam that it raifes, the whirlpools it caufes, by the rencounter of its waters, is not to be imagin'd. The land on both fides this river is very fertile : on the weft fide, which is the Tucuman fide, correfponding to Buenos Ayres, there are feveral cities, as St. J ago de EJlero Cor- doua, St. Michael la Rioga, and Efteco Juzuy and Salt a, which border upon Peru : thefe cities are not very populous, becaufe they are in the midft of the land, and far from commerce with both feas ; but they do in- creafe very much, particularly Cordoua, which, amongft other properties, has that of producing rare wits in the univerfity govern- ^» univer . ed by the Jefuits, who may match their x^xo-fity, and fefibrs and fcholars with thofe of any other rare v " ts part, as I myfelfhave experienced. There IJdiln ' are likewife in this diftricf. many houfes and Cordoua. families of men of quality and antient no- bility. Higher up the river to the weft, are alfo the cities of the Ajjiunption, Santa Fee de las Corrientes del Guayta, and others. The city of the AJfumption is the chief, and was peopled by gentlemen that came firft to the Indies, and is fince much in- creafed in people, but not in riches ; be- caufe it being fo far within the land, can- not have fufficient vent for its commodities, A a which, po Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. the au war's. Ovalle. which are chiefly Sugar, and preferved 1646. fruits ; among the reft they are famous for v ^ r V" s -'' a dried fweat-meat, called Ladrillos, which are dices of cetron, done up in Sugar, in the form of a tile : but the beft fweet-meat they have they will give in great abundance for an apple, or any European fruit. In all this tract of land there are three govern- ments, which are alfo bifliopricks, to wit, Paraguay, Rio de la Plata, and c Tucuman. Higher yet on the eaft fide are many heathen nations, who have others that an- fwer them on the weft ; and among thefe are difixibuted thofe famous millions which our fathers of the fociety of Jefus have founded . A religious I am forry I am infenfibly engaged in digreJT'-M "/this matter ; and I muft own I have men- tioned that which I cannot well explain. This is not a place for panegyricks, nor does the thread of my hiftory admit of fuch large digreflions ; yet I cannot but flop a little, and give fome confideration to that we may call miracles of grace, which are perform'd in thofe defarts, of which I myfelf have been an eye-witnefs, having lived fome time in that holy province, to which I owe all that I am. But who can explain what thofe apoftolical men deferve in the fight of God, who feem to have nothing of man but what is neceffary to make their life more admirable, which they lead like angels in human bodies ? Who would not wonder to fee in thofe mountains and folitudes men ill fed, worfe lodged, naked, painful, and in anguifh for the fouls of others, when they might five their own with lefs trouble, enjoying the good rr.orfels and merry days, which, with- out fin, and fometimes meritorioufly, they might have in their own country among their friends, and in the beft of Europe ? Who can but admire to fee fo many youths banifh themfelves, and renouncing all pre- ferment, refolve to pafs all their lives like hermits, for the love of God, and zeal of the fiilvation of fouls ? Is this a work of nature ? and can human force arrive to this of itfelr ? Let us go out from this confide- ration, left it be like a load-ftone to draw us in further •, and yet let me fly as fir as I will, I cannot hinder my heart from being with them, and defiring to end my days in this imployment. They who defire to fee the fruit of thefe millions of our company, the numbers of the gentiles which they have brought from folitudes to live in cities, the great progrefs of the faith, and the num- bers of martyrs they have confecrated to God, let him read the book made of all this by that apoftolical man Antonio Ruiz de Moutoya ; and then he will be ex- tremely edified, and admire the work, as well as the author. And fo I return to the thread of my hiftory. Juan de Solis being landed here, found little refiftance from the Indians, who are not lb cruel nor warlike as in other parts ; fo he took poflefiion of all that tract, in the name of their majefties, for the crowns of Cajlile and Leon, as was always the cuf- tom of the firft difcoverers. And he for himfelf took poffefiion of thofe feven foot of earth which death allows to thofe he feizes, let them be never fo ambitious, though while they are alive a whole world will not furnce them. He lies buried there; and an end was put to his difcovcries. Much about the fame time, there were at his catholick majefty's court the two fa- mous captains Ferdinand Magellan and Magellan Ruy Falero, offering; their perlbns, valour, e f e ". h ' s i • , „ ' ,. ,- , r • 1 1 ervtce to and lndultry, for to find out, either towards ^fenerthe the fouth or weft, an end to Ameriea, or iomz flreight. canal or ftreight by which both feas might communicate with each other ; and fo the navigation from Europe might be made in the lame fhips, in which they might go round all its coafts. They were treating up- on this fubject ; and the Portugal embafla- dor made it his bufinefs to oppofe Magellan, becaufe being fallen out with his king about this difcovery, he defired he might not make it for the crown of Cajlile ; but at laft the king having heard at Saragoca, in prefence of his council, the reaibns and grounds that Magellan and Falero went up- on, he accepted their fervice, and honoured them with the habits of St. J ago ; and ha- ving fettled the capitulation with them, his majefty commanded the fquadron to be made ready, and named the captains and officers of it ; and having heard that there was a difpute rifen between Magellan and Falero, about who fhould carry the royal ftandard or flag, and the like, he order- ed Falero, as not yet well recovered of a dif- temper he lay under, to flay at home, and mind his health ; and, in the mean time, that another fquadron fhould be got ready, in which Falero fhould follow. The firft fquadron being ready, his ma- jefty commanded the alfiftant of Seville, that he fhould deliver the royal ftandard to Ma- gellan in the great church of Santa Maria, of victory of Triana, taking at the fame time from him an oath of fidelity, or ho- mage, according to the cuftom of Cajlile, that he fhould perform the voyage with all fidelity, as a good and loyal vaflal of his majefty. The captains took likewife an oath to obey Magellan in all things. He, after many vows, having recommended himfelf and his voyage to our lord, went on board the ihip called the Trinity, and the treafurer-general in the Viclory, (fo fa- mous for being the firft that went round the world.) The other fhips were the Con- ception, St. J ago, and St. Antony. They Chap. io. Kingdom of CHILE. 9* Magellan They fet fail the tenth of Augujl, in the { his mJ" y car 1 5 1 9 - The y took the ifle oi Tenerif, ■Jtry. " then made the coaft of Guinea, and arrived at Rio Gennciro ; from whence they failed on St. Stephens day, and having had a great ftorm, they entered into the river of Plata : here they ftay'd eight days ; and then fol- lowing their voyage, they had another ter- rible tempeft, which carried away their forecaftle, and forced them to cut away their poop. They made vows to our lady of Guadalupe and Mpnferrat, and to St. J ago of Gallicia. It pleafed God to hear them, and they took Jhelter in the river of St. Julian, but not all ; for one of their fhips was loft : the men got on more, but endured fo much by land to port St. Julian by hunger, that they feemed skeletons when they came to their companions. xi o 11 ' While they were wintering in this river, menmuti- either idlenefs, or the great fufferings they ny. had undergone, and thofe which they fear- ed, made them mutiny againft Ferdinand Magellan. There were fome of his fhips that revolted ; but he with great boldnefs, and no lefs art, made himfelf mafter of them, punifhing fome of the guilty, and Sets fome pardoning others ; and for Juan de Cartha- mutmeers g ena an d his companion in rebellion, he enjhore, ^ xhem afhore when he fet fail, leaving mid the* b , 7 , o lewe s them a good provifion of bread and wine. It them. was never known whether this were fuffi- cient to fuftain them, till they fhould meet with fome of thofe giants which had been with the fhips, and had been treated by Magellan, who perhaps received them. Palfes the Magellan feeing the winter over, as he fireight of thought, fet lail the ftventh of November, f> unam ' m which is when the fummer begins in thofe nen j j p arts . anc j having by land obferved what he could of the Streight, they palled with great good fortune in twenty days, and then fteering north, they coafted along Chile, which they left fomething at large, as ha- ving no knowledge of that land, Peru be- ing not yet difcovered. After this, they came to the Philippine Ijlands, in one of which this moft couragious captain, and fa- Magellan mous Portuguefe, Magellan, died by the killed. hands of the natives, or to fay better, by his own ralhnefs and overboldnefs. Some years after, which was that of 1534. Simon of Alcazova, a Portuguefe gentleman of the habit of St. J ago, and gentleman of the chamber of the king, a great cofmogra- pher, and one very expert in navigation, having been employ'd many years for the crown of Cajlile, made an agreement with the king to difcover and people two hun- dred leagues from the place where Almagro's government fhould end, which was in Chile. He failed from 67. Lucar on the 21ft of September, 1534. with five good fhips, and two hundred and fifty men ; and without if34- feeing land from the Comer a to the StreighiOs alt.e. of Magellan, only having touched at cape 1.64& Abre Ojos, and the Rio de Gallegos, about ^V"^ twenty five leagues from the Streigbts mouth, he entered them on the 17th of January, 1535. having endured fo much thirft, that the cats and dogs were come to drink wine, and the people were ready to perifh. They found a great crofs erected hy Magellan, and the wreck of the fhip which he loft there. There appeared about twenty Indians, who gave figns of much joy to fee the Spaniards. They followed their courfe, •keeping ftill the right hand, as the fafeft ; but yet they had fo furious a ftorm, that it carried away half their fails : it blew fo, that they thought the fhips would have been carried away through the air. They took fhelter into a port ; and becaufe the feafon was fo far advanced, they perfwaded their general Alcazova to go out of the Streigbts, which he did, and return to the port of Lions, or of Wolves, which was a very good one. While they were wintering in thofe parts, they refolved to enter further into the coun- try, and make difcovery of thofe riches which the Indians told them were there ; fo having celebrated mafs, they blefTed the banners, and the captains took a new oath of fidelity and obedience ; and with this they fet out about 225 men, having fifty arcabufes, feventy crofs-boivs, four charges of powder and ball, which every one car- ried with his bread, which was about twen- ty fix pound weight. Thus they marched a- bout fourteen leagues ; and there Alcazova, being a heavy man, could go no further, which was his ruin : he named a lieutenant, againft whom the men mutined ; for ha- ving gone ninety leagues, and their provi- fion failing, they refolved to go back, as they did, though they had met with a river full of fifti ; and that their guides told them that a little further they fhould come to a great town, where there was a great deal of gold ; for the inhabitants wore plates of it in their ears, and upon their arms : but no- thing could move them ; and as one mif- chief feldom comes alone, they refolved to make themfelves mafters of the fhips at their return, and to kill all that fhould oppofe them ; and fo they executed it. But God Almighty punifhed them immediately ; for as they were going out of port, they loft their admiral ; and then having but one fhip, durft not venture for Spain, but put in at Hifpaniola, where doctor Saravia, of the audience of St. Domingo, chaftiz'd the moft guilty. And thus the difcovery of Chile, for that time, and that way, was dif- appointed ; for God referved that honour for another, CHAP. 02 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. OVALLE. T646. CHAP. XI. Of the e DiJcovery of other Tarts of America before that of Chile. w H I L E the fhips are making ready to go to the difcovery of Peru, it will not be amifs to touch upon the difco- very of fome other parts of America by- thc-by, that at lead the order of time, with which the difcoveries proceeded each other, may be underftood ; and what we are to fay afterwards about Chile will be made plain- er, that being our chief defign. It has been laid already, in its proper place, how the admiral Columbus difcover'd the terra finna, or continent of America, in his fourth voyage from Spain to the In- dies, and found the port of Puerto Bello the >j-oi. fecond of November, 1502. We have alfo faid how Vafco Nunnes de Balboa having founded Santla Maria la Antigua of Dai- ren, difcover'd the South Sea, and took pof- fefiion of it in the month of September or 1/13- Otlober, in the year 151 3. as alfo that in icie. the year 1515. Juan Dias de Solis difco- ver'd the river of Plata the firfl of all dis- coverers. Now we will add what is known about the difcovery of other lands ; amongfl the which, one of the firfl was that of Yucatan, which was undertaken by captain Francifco 1^17. Hernandes de Cordoua, in the year 151 7. and the Adelaniado of it is at this day Don Chrifloval Soares de Solis, a gentleman of an antient and noble family in Salamanca. This fame year other Caftilians difcover'd the land of Ca?npeche, where, in a chapel of the Indians, full of their idols, they found painted crofles, of which they were not lefs aftonifh'd than rejoiced, feeinglight indark- nefs, and the trophies of Chrift by the fide of Belial; which, at Lift, by the Spaniards arrival in thofe parts, were better known to Tanama thofe barbarous people. In the year 151 8. f th"t J J n the licentiado Efpinofa, who was nam'd de- ij-iS. puty to the governor Pedrarias, founded the city of Panama, which is the canal by which all the treafure of Peru pafles to Spain in the galleons. This city has not increafed fo much as many others of the Indies, becaufe being fituated near the equi- noctial line, its temperature does not agree with thofe born in Europe ; but yet there are many conftitutions that do very well there, becaufe of the great riches that are eiifily acquir'd there ; and thofe who feek them, think no air bad. There are a great many people of quality ; for there is a bifhoprick, a royal Audiencia, or court of judicature ; a tribunal of royal officers, and a chapter of canons, feculars and regulars. But that which in my judgment is molt commendable in it, is the piety, mercy, and liberality of its inhabitants. I have this year receiv'd advice, that by the negligence of a female Have, the greateft part of the city was burnt ; for the houfes being of wood, if one take fire, 'tis hard to (top the flames : there was loft in this a great mafs of riches, a great part of the lofs falling on the cathedral ; and a little after, there being a gathering made, though this mif- fortune had concern'd almoft every body, who for that reafon were lefs in a condition to contribute by way of alms, which fome of them wanted, yet they gave above twenty thoufand pieces of eight, and went on con- tributing. This was an extraordinary mark of their charity -, but the ordinary ones, in which they conftantly fhew their generofity, are to ftrangers and pafiengers who pafs from Spain to the Indies, who moil of them are at a lofs till they meet with fome patron, or friend, or countryman, to affift them ; and they would often be reduced to great extremity, if this were not, as it is, a com- mon inn for all thofe people ; for in the col- lege of our company alone, though it is not yet founded, but lives upon alms, I law, when I was there, a cloth laid at the porters chambers, where every day they provided for, and fed about fifty or fixty pafTengers, with bread and flefh in abun- dance. The fame is done by other con- vents ; and the feculars, I law, gave them money and other necefiaries. This, as to the city of Panama, founded in the year 151 8. in which year the religious friers of St. Do- ?ninick and St. Francis pafs'd from the ifland of Hifpaniola, and began to found convents in terra finna, and the Pearl coaft ; from whence thefe two holy orders purfued their million through all the land, enlightening it with their doctrine and holy examples ; by which they have made fuch a progrefs among the Indians, that the prefent flourifh- ing of the faith is owing to them, to the great faving of the Indian fouls. The year 1519. Ferdinand Magellan made the difco- , ^'9- very of the coaft of Chile ; and the fame year Hernando Cortes went from the point of St. Antonnc la Havana to Corocha, which is the firfl point of Yucatan eaft, to begin the conqueft of the great empire of Mexico ; of which, and the noble actions of that great man, 'tis better to be filent than to touch upon them, only by-the-by, as we fhould be forc'd to do ; this being not a place to explain the ftate and grandeur of that mighty monarch Montefuma, who was fove- Chap, i r. Kingdom of CHILE. 93 fovereignly obeyed in fo many and fuch great provinces. Who can exprefs in few words all this, and the felicity that accompanied Cortes in all his undertakings, which were fuch as they appear'd poffible only after they were done, feeming otherwife fo high and difficult, as to be inacceffible to the ex- treameft boldnefs ? Indeed, it cannot be denied, but that he was aflifted by heaven, whofe inftrument he was in planting the chrif- tian faith among thofe gentiles, and fhew- ing fuch reverence to the preachers of it, as might ferve the Indians for an example ; a quality which will always give reputation to princes, both before God and men. Buenos In the year 1528. the king fent a colony Aires to the Rio de la Plata, having agreed with founded, n ^ merchjmts of fl^ for that p urp ofe. The city they founded was that of Buenos Aires, which is on the fide of that river, in that part of it where it grows narrow from its large entrance at fea ; and the ri- ver there is not above nine leagues over. Cartb2genaln the year 1532. Cedro de Heredia of Ma- founded in drid fail'd from Spain, and founded the ci- 'H 1 - ty of Carthagena, which is the firft Scala which the Spanijh galleons make coming from Spain for the Indies, to fetch filver. It was fo call'd, becaufe its port was like that of Carthagena in Spain ; for the old name of the Indians was Calamari. He had at firft an engagement with the Indians ; and though they fliewed themfclves very brave, yet he beat them, and founded the city, which is at prefent one of the beft of the Indies, being wall'd with ftone, and fo Ibong, that we may name it as an impreg- nable fbrtrefs. The fit u»- It i s fituated in an ifland, divided from iion of the continent by a fmall arm of the fea, Cartha- which ebbs and flows, and comes to the ' bog of Canapole : there is a bridge or caufe- way there, that goes to the terra firma. The port is very fafe, and good fhips go into it by two mouths or entrances, a great- er and a lefs ; the great is fandy ; and the year that I was there, they told me it was almoft fhut up by the fand which a river cafts up againft it ; and now they write me word, that it is quite fill'd up, fo that there is no going in, but by the lefier entrance, which makes it fo much die ftronger, and it is defended by a good caftle ; befides which, the city is well garnifhed with ar- tillery, fo as not to fear an invafion. The Well built, plot of the city is very beautiful, all the ftreets being handfomely difpos'd, the houfes of free-ftone, high and noble ; fo are the churches and convents, particularly that of the iefuits, which makes a beautiful profpecl: to the fea. Here is a cuftom-houfe for the king, and a houfe call'd of the Rigimienio, with other publick buildings : it is very po- pulous, and of a great trade, by reafon of Vol. III. the coming of the galleons ; and from themO VA tLE. they have wine and oil ; corn they have in yj°* their own territory : there refides a bifhop, ^^ % " / and there is a tribunal of the holy inqui- fition. The governor hath both the civil and military command : it increafes every day in riches, being fo fituated, that it fhares all the riches of Peru, Mexico, and Spain. In the year 1 540. captain Francifco de The river Orellana difcover'd the great river of the 'f'heAmi- Amazones, which is call'd alfo Orellana, and^°" e e r ^ /" by a common miftake Maragnon ; and went captain from it to Spain, where, upon the relation Orellana, he gave of its greatnefs, the emperor'" I * 4 °* Charles V. order'd him three fhips, with people, and all things neceffary to make a fettlement. But this had no effecl:, becaufe having loft half his men at the Canaries and Cape Vert, he was too weak when he got thither ; yet he attempted to go up the river in two large boats, to which his fleet was reduc'd ; but finding his wants of every . thing, he came out again, and went by the coaft of Caracas to the Margarita, where he and his people are faid to have died. About twenty years after, the viceroy of Peru fent a good fleet under Pedro de Or- fua ; but this mifcarried alfo, becaufe he was killed treacheroufly by Lopes de Aguirre, who rebell'd with the fleet ; but having mifs'd the entrance of the river, he landed on the continent, near the ifland of Trini- dado, where he was executed by order from court. Some years after diis the ferjeant genera], Vincente de los Reyes Villalobos, Alonfo de Miranda, and the general Jofepb de Villa Mayor Maldonado, undertook the fame defign, but with the fame fortune, death taking them away ; fo that they gave over at that time all attempts on Peru and Quito fide. But ftill the fame of this river continuing,5e;///o Maciel, general of Paria, and fince that governor of Maragnon, and Fran.ifco Coello de Caravallo, governor like- wife of Maragnon and Paria, attempted its difcovery up the river ; and though they were back'd by the king's royal commands, yet there were many crofs accidents as to hinder the execution of their enterprize. The fathers of our company of Jefus at--?" iheyear tempted likewife this difcovery, by the mo- l f°7- tive of faving fo many fouls ; but begin- ning with a nation call'd the Cofanes, their progrefs was ftopp'd by the cruel death gi- ven to father Raphael Fernandes, who was preaching the faith to them. Thirty years after, which was 1537. fome friers of the order of St. Francis, mov'd by the zeal of amplifying the glory of the gofpel, and by order of their fuperiors,went from Quito, in company of captain 'Juan de Palacios, and fome foldiers : they began to fail down this river, and came to the Encabellados, or B b people 94 OvALLE 1646. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. The river of Ovella- na tiKviga ted from the fex to Quito. people with long hair •, but not finding the liarveft ready, they return'd to Quito, ex- cept only two of their lay-brethren, which were Domingo de Brieva, and frier Andres de Toledo, who with fix foldiers more fail'd down as far as the city of Paria, a fettle- ment of the Portuguefe, about forty leagues from the fea. They pafs'd by the city of St. Luis de Maragnon, where the governor Jacomo Reymondo dc Moronna, by the in- formation he had from thefe friers, caus'd feven and forty canoes to be got ready, and embark'd upon them feventy Spaniards, with 1200 Indians, fome of war, and fome to help to row, under the command of cap- tain Pedro Texeira, who having fpent a whole year in his voyage, came at laft to the city of Quito, having difcover'd and navigated the whole river of the Amazones, from its entrance into the fea to its fource or rife. The viceroy of Peru, who at that time was the count de Chinchon, being inform'd of this voyage of captain Pedro Texeira, re- folv'd to fend two perfons back with him for the crown of Caftile, who might give a perfect relation of the difcovery. At this time the city of Quito was go- vern'd by Don Juan Vafques de Acunna, as corregidor for his majefty over both Spa- niards and Indians, and who at prefent is corregidor of Potofi, who very zealoufly ofFer'd his perfon for one, and his fortune to raife people at his own charges, and pro- vide them with all necefiaries; but the royal Audientia, confidering how much he would be wanted in his office, where his prudence, experience, and zeal, had fhew- ed themfelves, refus'd to let him go, and chofe a brother of his, that they might not totally deprive his illuftrious family of that glory. This brother was a father of our company di'Jefus, and nam'd father Cbrif- loval de Acunna, who was rector of the col- lege of Cuenfa, and gave him for compa- nion, father Andres de Arrieda of the fame company, who was profefibr of divinity in the fame college. They fet out from Quito, in the year And buk 1539. an d having navigated the whole r\-"& a " 1 "> ver, which, according to their account, is •*'*• thirteen hundred and fifty fix leagues long, (though Orellana makes it eighteen hundred leagues,) obferv'd exadly the rife of this great river, its fituation, its courfe, lati- tude, and depth, the iflands it makes, the arms into which it is divided, the rivers it receives, the riches, quantities, temperature, and climate of its fhores, the cuftoms and manners of that multitude of people that inhabit it, and particularly of thofe famous Amazones. All which may be feen in a treatife made of it by father Chriftoval de Acunna, printed in Madrid ; and it is a relation that deferves credit, he being an eye-witnefs, and having examin'd various nations as he went. Thefe informations were well receiv'd in Madrid; but the revolutions which fuc- ceeded in thofe kingdoms, hinder'd all fur- ther progrefs, and prevented thofe holy defigns for the converfion of that great part of America. There are infinite numbers of Indians that inhabit the iflands, and other parts of this river. 'Tis faid they have one fettlement, that is, a town above a league in length. And now omitting many other conquefts, made much about the fame time in the iflands and coafts of the North Sea, and that which was made in the South Sea by Xil Goncales de Avila, in the land of Nicaragua, in the year 1522. let us attend (for it is high time) to the difcovery of Peru, of which we fhall treat more at large, becaufe it has a connexion to that of Chile. CHAP. XII. The 'Difcovery of Peru is given to c Don Francifco Pifarro, and Don Diego d'Almagro, and Hernando Loque; and how much they endured in it-. TH E captains Don Francifco Pifarro, and Don Diego Almagro, in compa- ny with the fcholaftick of the cathedral church ofDairen, call'd Hernando de Loque, came to the governor Pedrarias, and de- fir'd of him, as friends, the favour of rhefirfl being employed in the difcovery and con- difcovery ft f ^ fc coafts which mn fouth of Peru at-~i . . . , r , nmped. ii'om Panama, where lies the powerful kingdom of Peru, of which at that time there was little light ; and for this they pro- pos'd their reafons, among which, that which wa« of leaft value, they relied moft upon, and that was their experience they had attain'd under their general Vafco Nun- nes de Balboa. They met with little dif- ficulty with the governor ; for fo long as they did not defire any affiftance of the king's treafure, but ventur'd their own and their lives, they eafily obtain'd leave to undertake what they would. They prefently bought one of the fhips which Balboa had built for that defign ; and ha- ving got together threefcore men, and four horfes, (for at that time horfes were a great rarity, ) Hernando de Loque laid mafs ; Chap. 12. Kingdom of CHILE. 95 mafs ; and when he came to confecration, he divided the Hoftia, or facrament of the body of (Thrift, into three parts, of which he took one, and gave the other two to his two companions, offering themfelves to God, with intention to propagate among thofe people his glorious name, and plant the chriftian faith amongft them by the predication of the gofpel. Thofe who were prefent fhed tears out of devotion, and at the fame time pitied thefe underta- kers, looking upon their enterprize as a mad one. About the middle of November 1524. Don Francifco Pifarro having left Don Die- go Almagro behind him, to get more peo- ple together, fail'd from Panama to the ifle of Pearls, to the port of Pinnas, (the laft difcovered by Balboa, and after him by Pafqual de Andagoya,) and went up the ri- ver of the Cacique Biru, or Biruquete, to the country of Cbocama, where he flopped to wait for his companion Almagro. The hardfhips that the Cajlilians endured of hunger and other inconveniencies are not eafily to be told : twenty died ftarved, and the reft were fick, having no other fufte- nance than the bitter palmetos ; yet cap- tain Pifarro, without fhewing the leaft weaknefs, took care of them all with great affection, which made them all love him. At that time Don Diego de Almagro, his companion in the undertaking, came to him : he was received like an angel, for the relief he brought : he had loft one of his eyes by the fhot of an arrow, in a rencoun- ter he had with the Indians. They both together purfued their conqueft ; but provi- fion failing them once more, and their fol- diers being almoft naked, and fo perfecu- ted with mofquitos, which are infinite there, that they could not live, they began to talk of returning to Panama, to which Pifarro himfelf was well enough incli- ned ; but Almagro exhorted them rather to die than lofe patience, offering to return to Panama for new fuccour, while he fhould leave his companion in the ifland of Callo. The effect that this had, was, That he found the government altered in Panama, and Pedrarias fucceeded by Pedro de los Ri- os, who hearing of the miferable condition of thofe Cajlilians, would not fuffer Alma- gro to return to them, being defirous they fhould give over the enterprize as impracti- cable. He fent for this end a gentleman of Cordoua, call'd Juan Tafur, a man of ex- cellent parts, equal to his noble defcent, with a commiffion to bring thofe people back, that they might not all perifh. He came, and fignified his order to Pifarro, at which he was out of all patience, feeing it would be the ruin of his project. Tafur feeing this, took a prudent medium, which was, Ovalle. That he fhould draw a line between him *f 4& and Pifarro, who fhould be at the head of ^^ his men : and Tafur told them, That all thofe who refolved to return to Panama, fhould pafs the line, and come on his fide. Having faid this, they began to pafs the Pifarro fe- line, all to thirteen and a Mulatto, who^ f ^* faid they would die with Pifarro: andfo„ Mu ) att0 Tafur returned with all the reft to Panama, in the ifle Captain Francis Pifarro remained with"/ Gor g° n3 - his thirteen companions in an ifland, which, for the greater proof of his courage and con- ftancy, happened to be the Gorgona, which is a picture of hell for the clofenefs of its woods, the afperity of its mountains, the infinity of its mofquitos : the fun is fcarce ever feen in it for the continual rains that fall. When Tafur came to Panama, and his two friends Almagro and Loque found that Pifar- ro ftay'd behind with fo few companions, 'tis not credible how much affliction they fhew- ed : they follicited the prefident, that at leaft another vefiel might be fent to bring them away, in cafe they found them alive •, and after many difficulties, at laft a fhip was ordered after them, but upon condi- tion to be back at Panama in fix months : AJI,ip the fhip fail'd, and came to the place where comc ' "> Pifarro and his companions were left. Who P / n ^£ w can exprefs the joy and furprize of thofe poor abandon'd wretches, when they defcried at a diftance the fails of the fhip ? At firft they could not believe their own eyes ; for the defire and longing for a thing makes it appear lefs probable to come to pafs : but at laft it arriv'd ; and Pifarro feeing him- felf mafter of a good vefiel, could not for- bear attempting fome difcovery. They fail'd as far as the country of Turn- Tumbefc befe, which is very rich •, though the Turn- difcovered. befe Indians laid, That their riches were nothing in comparifon of what they might fee further. The lord of that country ha- ving heard of the arrival of the Cajlilians, he fent prefently to vifit them at their fhip with twelve baskets of provifions, and among the reft a fheep of that country, which was prefented to them by the virgins of the temple, as to men who feemed de- fended from heaven, and fent by God for fome great thing. The ambaffadors came ; and wondering to fee the fhip with white men who had beards, they asked them who they were, whence they came, and what they pretended. They anfwer'd them, That they were Cajlilians, vaffals of a pow- erful monarch, who, though fo great, had yet a greater over him, whom he owned, with all other kings, and who is in heaven, and is call'd Jefus Chrift, in whofename they came to undeceive them of their errors in worfhipping gods of ftone and wood, there being but one God, creator of all things, whom 9 6 Of the Nature and Properties of the Eook IV. Ovalle. whom. we all ought to worfhip. They ex- 1646. plained to them, That there was a heaven V ^V"^ ;m d hell, the immortality of the foul, and the other myfteries of our faith. The Indians flood flaring and gaping, hearing this doctrine, which had never been heard of before in their country -, for they believ'd, that there was no other king in the world but their king Guayanacapa, nor other gods but their idols. Among all the things they admir'd , there were two chiefly : the one was a negro ; for they never had feen one, and did believe that his colour was fome ftrong dye •, for which reafon they beftowed much pains in wafh- ing his face to get it off; but when they faw that he was rather blacker, and that he fhewed at the fame time white teeth, for he could not hold laughing to fee their fimpli- city, they fell a laughing too, and could They von- not but admire fuch a fort of men. The derat the _ ot her thing was the crowing of a cock, Tack? which the captain fent them with a hen of Caftille: every time he crowed, they ask'd what he faid -, for they thought his voice articulate, like the human voice ; which is an argument that they had not that kind of fowl : and Gareilajfo de la Vega is of that opinion, anfwering the objection of the vi- dian name they give a hen, that is, Alagual- pa, which, he fays, was a name given by the Indians after the coming of the Spani- ards. The Spaniards having refrefh'd them- felves well on fhore, began to defire of Pi- farro to return to Panama, and gather a greater force, that which he then had be- ing very difproportioned to his underta- king: he yielded to their perfwafions, ha- ving, for this time, made difcovery only as far as a place called Santa, which is very near the equinoctial line ; and having had a more certain account of Cufco, its riches, and the mighty empire it was head of. So taking with him fome Indians, and fome patterns of the gold, as a teftimony of the difcovery, he return'd to Panama. CHAP. XIII. Captain Francifco Pifarro returns to Panama, goes font thence to Spain, and fur fnes his Conqueji, PISARRO being come to Panama, went with his two companions to the governor Don Pedro de los Rios, to repre- ient to him their reafons for continuing their difcovery, upon the account of the riches of the country, as well as the plant- ing the faith in the capital of fo great a mo- narchy, and fo in all its dominions: but the governor would not agree to it ; and fo they refolved that Pifarro fhould go to Spain, to propofe it to the king himfelf. He undertook the voyage ; and to give more credit to what he fhould fay, he took along with him feveral things proper to the country he had difcovered, as pieces of gold and filver, fome of thole fheep we have mentioned, and fome of the Indians themfelves clothed after the manner of their country. The king was much pleas'd with them ; and Pifarro, in his firft audience, began to propofe the intent of his difcove- ry, the great hardfhips he had endured, he and his companions going naked, and al- moft ftarved, expofed to the mofquitos and poifon'd arrows of the Indians ; and all this, having fpent three years in this fort of life, for the increafe of the gofpel and his majef- ty's royal dominions. His majefty heard him with much attention and goodnefs, fhew- ing great companion for his fufferings, and ordering a gratification for himfelf, and his two companions, as alio the thirteen who would not forfake him : he receiv'd all his memorials, andorder'd them tobedifpatch- ed to his mind, having firft made an agree- ment with him proportionably to his great merits. They did not believe in Spain (and jh t riches that is an old difeafe every where) all that"/ Peru Pifarro faid of the riches of Peru, and of the £fj™* palaces and houfes of ftone which he had'" feen, till he fhewed them the pieces of gold and filver which he had brought with him ; and then the fame of that land began to fpread its felf, and with it the coyetoufnefs of fharing thofe treafures, every one bla- ming the governor of Panama for not ha- ving given the necefTary affiftance to the difcovery. Pifarro being difpatched with the title of Adelantado of the firft two hundred leagues he fhould conquer, having alfo a new coat of arms, and other privileges granted to him ; and taking with him four flout bro- thers that he had, he embark'd for the Indies with one hundred and twenty five CaJlUians more. He left Sanlutar in January 1530. i^c and arriv'd at Puerto Bello, where he was received with great joy by his companions and friends, who were all pleafed with the favours the king had beftow'd upon them by his means: only Don Diego de Almagro was not fo well pleas'd that Pifarro had made a better bargain for himfelf than for him, his partner in all the undertaking; he made his complaint to him, and refolved to parr company, and difcover and conquer by himfelf: but being allured that as foon as the firft two hundred leagues fhould be con- quer'd Chap. 13. Kingdom of CHILE. 91 quered, he would ufe his intereft to have him made Adelantado of two hundred more before any of his brothers ; and fo fuffering himfelf to be perfuaded, they agreed anew, and fell to preparing every thing for their en- terprize. He remain'd at Panama ; and the Adelantado, with his brothers, went from thence with a good crew of men, being to be followed by Almagro, as before. To make fhort about the things performed by this great conqueror, the great riches he got, and among the reft an emerald as big as an egg, which was prefented to him, -we will fuppofe him at the ifland of Pur a in war with the Tombezinos ; and there he came to a clearer information of the riches ofCufco, and the ftate in which that monar- chy was at prefent : and becaufe he had re- ceiv'd a fpecial command, and was himfelf inclin'd to propagate our facred religion, as the beft means of furthering his own defign, the firft thing he did, in landing upon the Peru ' A'fo- cont inent of Peru, was to build a church to ™ chunk God, to give a beginning to the fpiritual tuilt. conqueft of fouls. His firft fettlement was at Pura, where was built the firft church that was ever erected in thofe kingdoms. While he was employ'd in this, he fent out to difcover more lands, to know more of the ftate of the country. There he learnt the divifion that was between the two bro- thers Guafcar and Atagualpa, which was oc- cafion'd by the death of their father Guaya- nacapa, who was a moft powerful monarch, and among other fons had thefe two, which were now in war, and fome of his fubjects follow'd the one, and fome the other. A civil Guafcar was the lawful heir, but not fo war be- Drave anc j warlike as Atagualpa, who, heirs to the though a baftard, yet becaufe he had fol- empire of low'd his father in his wars from a child, Peru. drew to himfelf a great part of the king- dom, with which he made war upon his brother, with hopes to prevail. The Adelantado Don Francifco Pifarro refolved to have an interview with Atagual- pa, who was the neareft to the place where he was. So putting his truft in God, he fet out with his fmall army, more to be valued for its bravery than its number, which neverthelefs was feared and reflected in its march. He came near the place where Ata- gualpa had his camp, which was near fifty thoufand men, and fent him his ambafta- dors on horfeback, which was a new thing in that country, to give him advice of his arrival, and the reafon of jt, which was, To perfuade his majefty, and his vaffals, to give obedience to the true king of glory, from whom is derived all the power and command that princes have on earth. Ata- gualpa receiv'd the ambafiadors in a ftately tent, fhewing in all his behaviour a fove- reign majefty; and though his courtiers Vol. III. were in great admiration of the horfes, Ovalle. which they had never feen, yet he kept his ,*f 4°- countenance, and conceal'd the effects fuch ^) je In _ a novelty might have over him. He look'd dhns fur- upon them with fome pleafure, and not as /»•'*■''/>»**£« on a ftrange thing he had never feen; for/'-S " to f^' e the horfes beginning to corvet, fome of his Indians run away, whom he prefently cau- fed to be put to death, for having fhewed cowardice in his royal prefence. He anfwer- ed the ambafiadors courteoufiy, fhewing the pleafure he fhould have to fee and hear their general ; and ibt a day for it, telling them, That they fhould not be difturbed, nor afraid to find him and his people in arms , for it was his cuftom to ufe them to it. The day came ; and Atagualpa marching Atagualpa in order with his army to the place where ^h nst0 the Spaniards were drawn up, he difcover'd^X^^J to his captains the mind he had to make an Spaniards. end with thofe ftrangers, who had been fo bold as to enter into his country, and come fo near him without having any refpect to his royal power : but he order'd them not to kill them, but to take them alive, becaufe he would ufe them as his fiaves ; and as for the dogs and horfes, he refolv'd to offer them in facrifice to his gods. The Caftilians, who were not totally ignorant of this falfe appearance of peace and friendfhip, though they were fo few that the Indians were four hundred to one, yet they did not lofe cou- rage ; but with confidence in God expected the encounter, taking their pofts, and pre- paring every thing for it, though fecretly, that they might not be thought the Aggref- fors. Therefore he drawing near, the Ade- lantado ftay'd for him with only fifteen men, the reft being retir'd and hid, and Ata „ ua i pa fent him an embaffy by a frier, who car -fummone J ried the gofpel, and told him, That in thofe h " f rur - books were contained the faith, by which he and his people might be faved, and they brought it him from God Almighty. The king heard the frier, and took the mafs-book out of his hands, looking ear- neftly upon it : but not knowing how to read it, and taking it all for a jeft and a fiction, he threw the book up into the air, making a fign at the fame time to his peo- ple to fall on ; which they did : and then the Adelantado lifting up a hankerchief, which was the fignal to our men, they play'd upon them with their muskets on one hand, and the dogs and horfemen attacked them on the other, fo that the victory foon appear'd for the Caftilians ; God Almighty having refolved to deftroy that monarchy of the Ingas, and to remove that obftacle to the propagating of the faith, and to put that land into hands that fhould increafe it, as their catholick majefties have done. They . took the king Atagualpa prifoner; but treat- t'ifanlr' 1 C c ed J 98 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. OvALLE.ed him with all refpect due to his royal per- .1^6. fon, as the hiftorians relate more at large. \^V^^ while this happen'd, which was ona. friday, a day dedicated to the crofs, in the month *f 11' °^ May, in the year 1533. the army which Atagualpa had lent againft his brother Guaf- car, near Cufco, overcame him and took him Guafcar m- prifoner, and were bringing him to Ata- kenfrifinergnalp^ without knowing any thing of what "J"' had happened between him and the Cafti- lians ; but on the way Guafcar learned that his enemy was a prifoner too ; and Atagualpa was at the fame time informed of the victory he had obtained ; he hear- ing it, fhook his head, and cried, O for- tune ! what is this, that I am this day a conqueror, and conquered ? Guafcar mode- rated his grief with the news of his enemy's misfortune, thinking that the Caftilians would revenge him on the tyrant, who pre- tended to take from him his lawful inheri- tance. Atagualpa, though a prifoner, began to make reflections in this manner : If I caufe my brother to be put to death, how do I know how the Caftilians will take it ? and whether they will not put me to death for this, and remain lords of the land. If I let him come on, and he fpeaks with them, die juftice of his caufe v/ill fpeak for him, and I muft perifh ; for I cannot expect mercy from any. What remedy ? He found it cunningly, as he thought : he feigned a great fadnefs, with a defign that the Pifarros, who vifited him every day, mould ask him what was the matter. They did according- ly ; and feeing him fo afflicted, defired to know the caufe of that extraordinary grief. Heanfwer'd deceitfully, That having receiv- ed the news that his generals had put to death his brother Guafcar, it gave him an exceeding grief, of which he was not to be comforted ; becaufe though they were ene- mies, yet he was his brother; and he could not but be much concerned at his death. All this was feigned, to fee how the Spa- niards would take it ; and finding they did not feem offended at the thing, he fent or- ders immediately to his generals, who were coming on with his brother, that diey Guafcar />K*fhould put him to death prefently by the to death by w ay ; which they did, by drowning of him the order of - m a r [ ver ^ w hich amongft them is an in- gu ' famous death. His cries to heaven to re- venge his unjuft death were ufelefs at that time. But let no man give it to another to fave his own life ; for there is not a fhorter, nor a more certain way for him to lofe it : let him not ftrive by politick maxims, which an unjuft and ambitious pafiion fuggefts ; for though that may be an appearance of liability, yet divine juftice breaks thorough it all like cobwebs, and at length leaves no crime without its chaftifement. Atagualpa proved himfelf a great example of this truth, all his artifices ferving only to afford his enemies a pretext to take away his life. He had promifed to fill the room where „ , ■ -L 1 L • '{• 1-1 -^ prod'tlr they kept him pnioner, which was a very ouirmfom. large one, with gold and filver, befides ten thoufand bars of gold, and fome heaps of jewels, as an earneft, for his ranfom. And though this was accepted ; and that he per- formed it according to his promife, yet he did not obtain what he pretended ; for in- ftead of his liberty they pronounced to him a fentence of death, which he juftly deferv- The Spa- ed for having put his brother to it, and ty- niards "•*' ranniz'd over that which was none of his'*'/*^' 11 ,-1-1 1 - , a "d per/idl- own ; and becaufe of the advice the Spa- 0H fyp at niards had every day of the army that was Atagualpa gathering together, which if it were true, " dmh ' and Atagualpa, at liberty at the head of them, there would have been good reafon to fear from his fubtilty, great and irreme- diable inconveniences ; which they thought they could no ways avoid fo well as by taking his life, though with fome hopes of his exchanging it for a better and eternal one, if it be true, that before he died he was inftructed, and received baptifm, as fome fay he did. About this time, which was in the year 1533. Don Diego d'Almagro being made ij;;. marlhal, came from Panama to Tombez with a good body of men and arms ; and from thence he went on to help his good friend, the Adelantado Pifarro in his con- quefts, not letting his men do any injury to his Indians as he went. There were a hun- dred thoufand pieces of eight given them upon their arrival ; for though they were not at the battel, yet their prefence con- firmed the victory, and helped to keep Atagualpa prifoner. The remainder of the treafure, which was above a million, was divided among Pifarro's men ; and they being few, were all made rich, and in a condition to make difcoveries of their own. The Adelantado fent his brother Hernando Pifarro to Caftile, with the news of this happy progrefs of their difcoveries, and of the propagating the chriftian faith in the converfion of the Indians ; and he alfo car- ried with him the claim of Don Diego d'Al- magro to two hundred leagues of land be- yond his brother's, of which he was like- wife to be Adelantado. All this he nego- tiated very much to the content of all •, and in the year 1534. there was granted, in To- ,»,*; ledo, to Don Diego d'Almagro the govern- ment of that which they called the new kingdom of Toledo, which began at a place called Las Chincbas, where the territory of Pifarro ended, and extended itfelf to the Streighls of Magellan. CHAP. Chap. 14. Kingdom of CHILE. 99 CHAP. XIV. The News of the Government of 'Don Diego de Almagro is brought to him y and he goes upon the T)ifcovery of that of Chile. OvALLE. 1646. D |0 N Francifco Pifarro had given com- miflion ;to Don Diego d' Almagro, to to take pofieffion of Cu/co, when the news came of the government of two hundred leagues given him by his majefty, to begin from the Chinchas. This caufed great dif- turbance ; for it was believed that Cu/co would fall into this divifion ; and the friends of Don Francifco Pifarro, judging this of great prejudice to Pifarro, that the marfhal, tmjWtoc- even by his commiffion, mould find him- 10 fall out. felf in pofieffion of Cufco, they advifed him immediately to revoke the powers he had given, which he did ; and this was the firft caufe of the difturbance in Peru, which made afterwards fo great a noife, and for which they both loft their lives. But I be- ing to write the hiftory of Chile, and not of Peru, fhall leave the reader to thofe hiftorians who treat of it at large. This news being known in Truxillo, one Diego de Aguero let out to carry it to Almagro, who was upon his march to take pofieffion of Cufco. He overtook him at the bridge oi \ Acambay ; and he having received it with great moderation, fhewed himfelf above the greatnefs of his fortune, and g.ive him as an albricias, or prefent for his good news, fe- ven thoufand Caftilians , which are near twenty thoufand ducats ; and by this news he was moved to change his defign of con- quering a people called the Chiriguanaes, and treated of that of Chile ; for he fup- pofcd it would fall into the government he was to have, and (as Herrera fays) moved by the informations he had of the great riches of Chile. To prepare himfelf for this enterprize, which was like to be very chargeable, he caufed a great deal of filver to be melted in Cufco, to draw out the king's fifths. Amongft other things, there was a man's burden of gold rings to be melted down ; and one Juan de Lepe being by, and taking a fancy for one of them, begged it of mar- fhal Almagro, who fhewed himfelf fo much a gentleman, and fo liberal, that he faid prefently, that he fhould not only take that ring, but that he fhould open both his hands, and take as many as could lie in them ; and hearing he was married, he or- dered him befides four hundred crowns as a prefent for his wife. He fhewed another piece of liberality to one Bartholomew Peres, for having presented him with a fhield, which was, to order him likewife four hun- dred pieces of eight, and a filver pot weigh- ing forty marks of filver, and had for handles two lions of gold, which weighed three hundred and forty pieces of eight; and to one Montenegro, who prefented him with the firft Spaniffj cat that ever came to the In- dies, he ordered fix hundred pieces of eight, j^/j^ "^ ; . There are a great many ftories more of his ma i, liberality and charity too, he being very generous and noble minded. Having dif- pofed all for his enterprize of Chile, he caufed proclamation to be made, That all thofe who had not fome particular employ- ment to ftay them at Cufco, fhould make themfelves ready to go along with him. They were all overjoy'd at this, he being extreamly beloved for his liberality and courtefy •, and that they might furnim themfelves with arms and horfes, he caufed one hundred and eighty load of filver tojhevaft be brought out of his houfe, (in thofe days riches of a load of filver was as much as a man could the firft con- carry,) and twenty more of gold : this he^ a ' diftributed among them all. Thofe who were willing, gave him bonds to pay him out of what they fhould conquer in the land they were to difcover ; for this was the way of thefe conquerors in gaining to his majefty this new world, having no other pay but what they could purchafe. T'he Inga Mango, who was brother to Guafcar and Atagualpa, had fucceeded them in the government, as the fon of Guayanaca- pa, who had alfo many others. This Inga had taken a great kindnefs for marfhal Al- magro -, fo he gave him, as a companion in his entrprize, a brother of his, called the Inga Paullo Topo, and the high prieft Vil- lacumu ; the Spaniards call him Villaoma, or Vilehoma, that they might by their au- thority not only keep all his vaflals from falling upon them in the way, but rather fhould receive him, and make him prefents. The marfhal defired thefe two perfons to go before, in company with three Caftilians, and make a fettlement or habitation at the end of two hundred leagues. The other people, and Juan de Savedra, went by an- other way ; and when they had gone one hundred and thirty leagues from Cufco, they founded the town of Paria. Here the marfhal overtook them ; and he was like- wife aflured of the title of Adelantado grant- ed him by his majefty, with the government of the new kingdom of Toledo, which was to begin from the borders of new Caftile ; for fo they called Pifarro's government. His friends advis'd him to return imme- diately, IOO OVALLE 1646. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. Limafound- eJ by Fran- cifco Pifir- ro in the year tfff. Its fit ua- iion. A delicious place. Its magni- ficence. It never rains at Lima. diately, wherever this exprefs overtook him, becaufe there was one come to the city of Los Reyes, with a commiffion from the king to regulate limits of both govern- ments to each of the Adelantadoes : but Al- magro was fo poflefs'd with the ambition of conquering fo great and rich a kingdom as that of Chile, that he did not value the land he had difcovered, in comparifon of what he was to difcover, out of which he defign'd to reward his friends, and the ma- ny gentlemen that accompanied him ; fo he purfued his journey; where it will not be amifs to leave him engaged with the fnows, and ill paftages of the- Cordillera, while we give a vifit to the great city of Lima, cal- led otherwife de los Reyes, becaufe it being the head of thofe kingdoms, we cannot well pafs it by. This city was founded by the Adelantado Don Francifco Pifarro in the year 1555. ' in a very pleafant plain, about two leagues from the fea, upon a fine quiet river ; which being derived by drains and cuts all over the plain, fertilize it fo copioufly, that it is all covered with feveral forts of products, as vineyards, fugar-works, flax, garden pro- duct, and other delightful plants : and if there be any thing they want from abroad, 'tis brought them fo punctually, that all their markets are fupplied with all manner of delicacies that can be wifhed for. For this and many other delights of this city, it happens to mod people who live there, that they cannot endure to think of leaving it for any other place ; fo that it feems an enchanted place, where the en- trance is eafy, and the getting out difficult. I myfelf heard the Spanifh merchants, who, the year 1 was there, had fold their goods them- felves at Lima, whereas they ufed to fell them at Puerto Bella, fo enamoured of it, though they ftay'd but a little while there, that during our whole navigation, they could talk of nothing elfe ; and to fay truth, it deferves their praifes •, for though it cannot be denied, that fome cities I have feen in Europe do out-do it in fome things, yet few come near it, take it altogether : and, firft, for riches, it is the fountain from whence all the reft of the world drinks ; its bravery in cloaths, and magnificency of the court, out-does all others : 'tis extraor- dinary populous ; for a father of our com- pany, who had the care of catechifing the negroes, told me, they were at leaft fixty thoufand, and more, that came to confef- fion. They have fumptuous buildings, though outwardly they make no fhew, ha- ving no tiles ; for it never rains all the year round : all the furniture, as pictures, beds, &V. are mighty rich. There are great numbers ot coaches, and abundance of gen- try ; all the inhabitants very rich, mer- chants of great ftocks, tradefmen and han- dicraftfmen of all profefiions, But that which is to me moft confiderable, is, what belongs to the worfhip of God, and cult of religion •, for the cathedral church, and all the parifh churches are very fumptuous, and provided of admirable learned men, which come out of that univerfity; of which thofe of the country are not the leaft to be valued, having furnifhed fo many preachers and other fubjects for all other dignities, even to the higheft government. What ftiall I fay of the orders of friers and nuns ? I fcarce know one order that has not two or three convents in the city, beautiful cloifters, great buildings, and yet greater churches •, fome after the old fafhion ; all with burnifhed gold from top to bottom, as are thofe of St. Auguftin, and St. Domi- nick : others after the modern way, with curious well-wrought ceilings ; as is that of the Jefuits, and of our lady of Mercedes^ which are of a very fine architecture. There are eight nunneries, fome of which have a- bove two hundred nuns in them. There are befides many oratories, confraternities, hofpitals, and congregations. In our con- vent alone of the jefuits, I remember there were eight foundations of feveral kinds, and for people of as many different ranks and eftates in the world. The great congrega- tion has few in the world equal to it : the chappel of it is very large, and of a very rich material, covered with filk and gold, and rare pictures, with other rich ornaments belonging to it. There is here great fre- quentation of the facraments by monthly communions : the body of Chrift is expofed, and the church fo adorned with mufick and fweet fmells, that it is a paradife upon earth. And amongft ether pieces of devotion per- formed by this congregation, there is a great entertainment or treat given once a year at an hofpital, which is fo magnificent, that it is worth feeing : the fame is done in proportion by the other congregations. This city is the feat of a viceroy, who indeed is a king in greatnefs and authority, difpofing of a vaft number of places, com- mands, and pofts of honour and profit. There is likewife a rich archbiihoprick of great authority ; three courts, or royal au- diencias ; a merchant court, which decides all matters of trade •, a famous univerfity, in which are profefiors very learned in their profefiions ; three colleges or fchools for youth, under the care of the fathers of our company of Jefus, in which are about one hundred and thirty profeflbrs or mafters : there are every day new foundations for or- phans, widows, and to retire women from lewdnefs : there is the famous hofpital of St. Andrew for the Spaniards, and St. Anne for the Indians ; all which would require a relation by themfelves. This Chap. 15. Kingdom of CHILE, ior This is what I could not avoid faying about this great capital of Peru ; and if it continues increafing as it has done for this firft age, it will not have its fellow in the The left «. world. The fame may be faid of Cufco, ties in Vein Arequipa, Chuqttizaga, and the great town next to o f p oto ji^ which increafe fo, that he who is abfent a few years, does not know them when he fees them again ; and the reafon is, that the veins and mines of gold and filver, ^ )v j v ^. LE which like a loadftone, have drawn fo ma- ^A^, ny people thither, are fo far from lelTening, that new ones are difcover'd every day, and thofe richer than the old ones ; for which reafon there comes yearly more people, and among them much gentry, as well as trades- men of all arts ancLprofefilons, who moft of them fettle and increafe there. CHAP. XV. The Adelantado Almagro enters into Chile, having fuffered extremely by the IV ay. w E left the Adelantado Don Diego de Almagro in a place call'd Paria, from whence he was to purfue his journey to Chile, as he did in the beginning of the ij-jj. year 1535. He himfelf going before, or- der'd Juan deSavedra to follow with twelve horfe by the royal highway thorough the province of Las Chichas, the chief place of which was Topi/a, where he found the Inga Paulo, and the prieft Villacumu, who prefented him with ninety thoufand pefos of very fine gold, it being the tribute they us'd to fend the Inga from Chile, and which they were now fending, without being inform a of the tragical accidents that had befallen the family ; and there he fent back a great many Caciques of the countries he left be- hind him, and who had waited upon him thither. The three Spaniards, whom he had fent with the Inga Paulo, and two more who joined themfelves to them, being defirous of making new difcoveries, and acquiring honour, and withal making their court to the marfhal, went before, till they came to a place call'd Jujuy, which is a place or country where the people are very warlike, and eat human flefh, and who kept the In- gas always in great awe. This boldnefs cod three of the Spaniards their lives, though they fold them dear. The Adelantado be- ing refolv'd to revenge their deaths, fent captain Salfedo, with fixty horfe and foot, to chaftife thofe Indians ; but they, being alarm'd, had call'd together their friends, and made a fort to defend themfelves in, and many pits with fharp flakes in them, that the horfes might fall into them ; with which, and many facrifices and invocations made to their gods, they had refolv'd to expecl: their enemies. Captain Salfedo found them thus fortified, and being himfelf in- ferior in ftrength, ferit to the Adelantado for relief, who fent it him under the com- mand of Don Francifco de Chares ; but the Indians then avoided engaging, and refol- ved to abandon their fort ; though, not to lofe all their pains, they refolv'd firft to at- VOL. III. tack Don Francifco de Chares, where they kill'd a great many, and particularly of the Indians Tanaconas, and carrying off the fpoils, they made a fafe retreat : the Spa- niards return'd back to their chief body. i- Since we mention'd the Tanaconas, it will not be amifs to explain the fignification of that word, for the better underftanding of what follows. The Tanaconas were, among the Indians, „ a people fubjec~t to perpetual flavery ; and were to be known, were bound to wear a fort of habit different from the reft. Thefe feeing the bravery of the Spaniards, and how much they made themfelves be fear'd and refpected, began to rife againft their maf- ters, and adhered to the Spaniards, hoping thereby to make off the yoke of flavery ; and became cruel enemies to the other In- dians. That which this word Tanacona now fignifies in Chile, is, thofe Indians who do not belong to any particular lord ; for as to freedom, there is no difference, the king having made them all free alike. From Jujuy the Adelantado march'd with the vanguard, purfuing his journey, leaving the rear to the care and command of Noga- ral de Ulloa. He came to a place call'd Chaquana, where he found the Indians in arms ; for though at firft they were frighted with the fwiftnefs of the horfes, yet at laft they grew fo little afraid of them, that they took a folemn oath by the great fun, either T /,e reilu- to die or kill them all. The Adelantado tim of the attack'd them, and was in great danger, In , d ' ans "f for they kill'd his horfe under him in the engagement ; but he continuing ftill to fight them, they refolv'd at laft to retire : then he purfued his journey, with his whole army, which was of two hundred horfe, and fomething above three hundred foot ; with a great many Indians, as well Tanaco- nas, as others, who affifted the Inga Paulo. The army being thus numerous, they be- gan to want provifions ; and which was worfe, they were without hopes of finding any, there being no place thereabouts that could afford it, the country being a defart, D d which io2 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book IV. Ovalle- which lafted ieven days, all barren ground, 1646. and full of fait nirre ; and for their com- \*\~±s f ort ^ as ,-^gy cJefcended a hill or precipice, after which they hop'd for fome relief, they met with the fnows of the Cordillera, which was a fight able to freeze the boldeft un- dertaker, confidering the dangers and fuf- ferings they were threatened with. Herrera, when he comes to this paffage, fays, fpeak- ing of the bravery of the Spaniards, and their patience in fuffering a great deal,which I fhall not relate, that I may not be thought to praife my own countrymen with affecta- tion ; but I cannot omit fome part of it : He fays then, That to overcome fuch dif- ficulties, none could have attempted it, but fuch as were us'd to endure hunger and thirft, and to enter into a country without guides, through forefts, and over great torrents, fighting at the fame time with The h*'d- their enemies and the elements, and fhew- jhipstbe ing invincible minds ; marching both day 225} and ni S ht ' e nd»ring c ° lci a °d heat, loaded with their arms and provifion ; being all of them ready to put a hand to all things, even the moft noble among them being the firft, when a bridge or any thing was to be made, to turn pioneers and carpenters, and cut down trees, by which they were fit for the greateft enterprizes. The Adelantado feeing the new, and, in all appearance, the infuperable difficulty that attended this journey, did not lofe cou- rage, but made a bold exhortation to his men, telling them, That thefe were acci- dents that us'd to befal foldiers, without which no great honour could be gain'd, nor any of thofe riches which they fought after ; that they fhould put their truft in God, who would not fail to afilft them, fince the planting of his faith depended up- on their prefervation. They all anfwer'd chearfully, that they were ready to follow him to death ; and becaufe example is the beft rhetorick, he firft began to enter into the Cordillera, or fnowy mountains, with a detachment of horfe going before, that if he found any provifions, he might fend a fhare to the army, which began to faint TmicuUr- for want of it. But the more he advanc'd, ly h"c^df ne met w ' tn ^hing but vaft defarts, with lera. " ' " a wind fo cold, that it ftruck them through; and the pafiage grew ftraiter and ftrait- er, till at laft, it pleafed God, that from a high hill, they difcover'd the valley of Copiapo, where the kingdom of Chile be- gins, where they were receiv'd very kindly by the Indians, out of the refpect they bore to the Inga Paulo, and afforded them pro- vifions enough to fend fome to the army which follow'd. 'Tis not pofuble to ima- gine how much they were prefs'd both by cold and hunger, both Spaniards and In- dians ; here one would fall into the fnow, and be buried before he was dead ; another would lean againft a rock, and remain fro- zen, juft as if be had been alive. If any did but Hop to take breath, immediately a blaft of cold air left him fix'd and immove- able, as if he had been of iron ; and a Ne- groe, who had a led horfe in his hand, A remark- did but turn his head, and flop to fee who able in- call'd him, as fome body did, and both^""" e "/ he and the horfe remain'd like two flatues j^y^** fo that there was no remedy but to keep moving, for it was a certain death to flop a little ; but it could not be, but people fo weary and fo weak, mufi Hand flill fome- times ; and therefore they loft a great ma- ny men, ftrowed up and down the moun- tain. Garcilajjb fays, there died ten thoufand Indians and Negroes ; of the fifteen thoufand which went with the Inga Paulo, only five thoufand efcaped ; for being all natives of Peru, and not having ever felt fuch cold, for which they were totally unprovided with cloaths, they died apace ; the Spaniards be- ing better provided, endur'd lefs ; and yet Garcilajfo fays, they loft above a hundred and fifty men, and thirty horfes, which was a great lofs ; others loft their fingers and toes, without feeling it. Their greateft fufferings were in the night-time ; for they had no wood to make fire, and the Indians eat the very dead bodies out of hunger. The Spaniards with all their hearts would have eat the dead horfes, but they could not flop to flea them. At laft the provi- fions, fent them by the Adelantado, met them ; fo they pafs'd the reft of the way pretty well. When they came to the val- ley, the Indians made much of them, where we will leave them, to fee how others, that came after the Adelantado, pafs the mountain. CHAP. XVI. Others pafs the Cordillera. What happened to the Adelantado in Copiapo. His Return from Chile. His Misfortune and T)eath. ID O not find clearly the time of the year not one of them would have efcaped, fince in which this army pafs'd the Cordillera : the firft high wind would have overwhelmed 'tis certain it could not be in the midft of them in the fnow ; therefore they pafs'd it, fummer 3 nor in the heart of winter, becaufe either in the beginning, or the end of the winter ; Chap, i <£ Kingdom of CHILE. io 3 winter ; and moft "probably it was at the entrance of the winter ; for if it had been at the going out of the winter, thofe who followed would not have run fo great a hazard. The firft of thefe was one Rodrigo Orgon- nes, who was left by the Adelantado in Cuf- co, to raife men and follow him, as he did. He loft his nails, and would have loft his fingers, if he had not taken his hand off the pole that held his tent up: others loft their eyes, their ears, and many their lives ; particularly all thofe who were in one tent, which a ftorm rifing carried up, and in the morning they were found all dead in the fnow : they loft alfo fix and twenty horfes. The next who parted after Rodrigo Or- gonnes,was one Juan de Arrada,who brought theAdelantado the king's difpatches, and his commiflion for his government, whom we left in Copiapo ; and it will not be amifs to fee what befel him there, before he receiv'd his commiflion, and faw his friends. The firft thing he did in this valley, was a work of charity and juftice, in favour of the true lord of that land , who was not in pofTef- fion of the government, becaufe he was left a minor, under the guardianfhip of his un- cle, who not only did not think of put- ting him in pofieffion, but contriv'd to take his life, which he would have effected, if he could have got him into his hands ; but the fubjects, more loyal than he, had hid him out of the way. The Adelantado be- ing inform'd of the truth of this matter, and being entreated by the wrong'd prince, reftor'd him to the pofieflion of his govern- ment, putting the tyrant to death. Before this happened, at their firft arri- val at Copiapo, the Inga Paulo took care to look out for fome gold in that little pro- vince ; and in one day having got together the value of above two hundred thoufand ducats, he prefented the. Adelantado with it, in the name of his brother, the Inga Mango ; which gave the Spaniards great caufe of ad- miration, feeing that in one village, and in fo little time, fo much gold had been found, gathering from this, how prodigious rich the country muft be-, and therefore Almagro was content to think all his pains well taken, that he had been at to come into it. The vajl The Inga Paulo finding his prefent fo well riches of received, being defirous to make his court, got from the neighbouring parts three hun- dred thoufand ducats of gold more, which he prefented to the Adelantado; which gave him fuch joy, to fee that fo rich a country was fallen to his lot, that he caus'd all his people to be afiembled, and pulling out all the bonds and obligations made to him in Cufco, for the gold and filver which he had there lent them, he cancell'd them all, Chile. one by one, declaring to his debtors, ThatOvAixE. he freely forgave them their debts, and was J°^>- forry they were not greater : and not only ^"^"^ fo, but opening his bags of gold, he be- gan to ufe great liberalities ; which fo pleafed them, that they forgot the dangers they had gone thorough, every one promifing himfelf vaft riches from fuch a conqueft. Francifeo Lopes de Gomara, who writes this hiftory, fays, That it was a liberality be- coming a great prince, rather than a private foldier : but he adds, as a confideration of the little liability of human affairs, and the profperity of this world, that when he died, he had no body to give a pall to co- ver his coffin. But let us not afflict the reader fo foon with the memory of that lamentable trage- dy ; let us rather follow this great captain in his good fortune. As he went further into the country, he was reflected and treated as if he had been the Inga himfelf, in all the places he came to ; but when he came to a nation called the Promocaes, -which was the limits, beyond which the kings of Peru could never extend their empire, he found the fame refiftance as they had done. The Adelantado perceiving this, demanded fuccour from the Inga Paulo, who gave it him, by calling in the Inga's garrifons of the neighbouring frontier ; and fo the war began. Here the Spaniards met with their match, Great op- and began to experience that the conqueft t°/' tmi> y or this part of America woufd not be com- pafs'd by their bare appearing with their horfes, dogs, and guns ; or that a king- dom might be got by taking a king prifo- ner, and feparating his army to their pur- pofes, and fo remain abfolute mafters of the field ; for here they met with a nation, who though they admir'd their horfes, and were furpriz'd to fee them, yet the great- nefs of their courage overcame that furprize; fo they met and engaged them with great valour, and many were kill'd on both fides. The Spanijh blood, which ufed to be fo little fpilt, was here fhed in abundance ; and from that time to this, the fiaughter of them has not ceafed, fo as to make either fide fafe. However, the valour of the Spaniards, and the advantage they had over them by horfes and guns, was fuch, as they might well depend upon, which made them con- ceive the conqueft of Chile to be a work of about two years at moft ; as 'tis probable it would have been, if the divifions between Almagro and Pifarro, and his brothers, had not cut the thread of that enterprize, as it did that of their own lives ; for they pe- rifhed by one another's hands, upon points of conteft about, jurifdiction. About 104 Of the Nature and 'Properties of the Book IV. Ovalle. About this time the Adelantado being 1646. engaged with the Indians in a bloody war, '^V^ RodrigoOrgonnes arriv'd with his Spaniards, and fo did Juan de Arrado, with the king's royal patents, and a commiflion for the go- vernment of a hundred leagues of the coun- try ; which was juft as if a deluge of water had been poured upon the fire already light- ed of the war with the Promocaes, Cau- quenes, and Pencos, who were the nations that had withftood this invafion. As for the Indians they pretended to no more than to defend their country, and their liberty, from foreign invaders ; and the Spaniards found themfelves call'd away by more ear- ner!: motives of intereft, and fo turned an- other way. Not but that there were dif- ferent opinions about what was to be done ; fome thought that it was better to fettle where they were, the heavens and earth be- ing both the beft that they had yet difco- vered, and its riches fuch as they were wit- nefles of; others were of opinion to be con- tent with what they had difcovered, with- out expofing themfelves to new dangers, and the accidents of war. But thofe who brought the king's commiflion, infifted ex- treamly, that the Adelantado fhould go to enjoy the effect, of the king's favour to him ; and above all, that which mov'd Almagro moll, was the jealoufy of feeing the Pifar- ros matters of Peru : to which might be added, that if he did not take pofleffion of Cufco, by virtue of the king's patent, he might be in danger of remaining, at laft, without any title to any thing he had. In this confufion of motives, the Adelantado ftuck to the worft, as it happened, fince he loft his life : he had it feems arriv'd to the top of fortune's wheel ; and 'tis the fame thing with her to ftand ftill, and to begin to go down j which he did, till he tumbled quite to the ground, and had his head fe- parated from his ihoulders. The world feldom performs its promifes -, otherwife who could have told this great and generous man, that he fhould fall by thofe hands, to which he had lent his? The Pifarros would not have been at that height, if the franknefs and friendfhip of Almagro had not aflifted them from the be- ginning with his fortune and good counfel ; but nothing of all this was fufficient to fave him from death by their procurement. The differences between them grew to that height, that they engaged in a battle againft each other ; in which the Pifarros were con- querors, and Hernando Pijarro, the chief of them, order'd Almagro to be beheaded, Almagro being no ways touch'd with their antient^ beh «*h* friendfhip, nor the fubmiflions and tears o{,l"p^f Almagro himfelf, though a venerable oldros. man, begging his compaflion with a body full of honourable wounds ; but as if he had been a ftatue of marble or brafs, he fhewed no figns of compaflion. 'Tis granted that Almagro did ill, to leave the conqueft of Chile, fo well begun, and where he might have fettled himfelf and his friends to fuch advantage, to go back to Cufco, to govern there by force, in cafe the Pifarros fhould oppofe him •, but they alfo were much to be blam'd, in not coming to fome agree- ment with their antient friend and compa- nion ; but they are inexcufable in fhewing fo much cruelty, as to put him to death : accordingly all their own profperity feem'd to end with his, and to turn to a lamenta- ble tragedy, in which they died by one an- other's hands, as may be feen more at large in the already-cited authors. For me, it is my bufinefs to purfue the conqueft and fet- tlement of Chile, which is my theme. BOOK Chap. r. Kingdom of CHILE. 105 BOOK V. Of the Conqueft and Foundation of the Kingdom of Chile, CHAP. I. The Governor Pedro Valdivia enters Chile : He conquers and fettles that Kingdom j and is the fir Ji that enters as far as Mapocho, TH E more I draw near to the re- lating the fettlement made in Chile by its firft founders and captains , who reduced that kingdom to the obedience of their catho- lick majefties, and to the knowledge of God, the more I mifs thofe papers and re- cords, which being fo far off, I cannot have the help of in defcribing the particu- lars of the events which were very memora- ble at the firft entrance of the Spaniards. I muft therefore make ufe of fuch pafiages as I fhall find up and down in the general hif- tories of the Indies ; and this will refrefh in me the memory of what I have feen or learn 'd by others ; and yet I muft own the knowledge and information the reader will have from hence, will be but fcanty and fhort, fuch as I fhould have hardly at- tempted to publifti without this apology ; and defiring my readers to accept of this collection for the prefent, till the compleat hiftory of Chile does come out, I having left men moil eminent in their profeffion imploy'd in it when I left thofe parts. The Adelantado Almagro being returned if37- in the year 1537. to Cufco, colonel Pedro Valdivia defir'd from the Adelantado Fran- cifco Pifarro leave to purfue the conqueft of Chile, fince he had power and commiffion from the king to grant it. He promifed not to return till he fhould have compleated the fubjection of it, and reduced it to the obedience of the crown and God Almigh- ty. The Adelantado, who had it in his Valdivia thoughts, becaufe of the fame of its great U l d 'T k h " cnes > to f°U° w tne conqueft of 'Chile, con- \onqueft 0/ Mering this gentleman to be one of the Chile, in braveft captains that had come to the In- theyear fag^ having born arms in Italy and Peru, '^ 9 * and given a very good account of all that he had undertaken, chofe him for this en- Vol. III. terprize in the year 1539. gi vir >g mm a OvALLE year's time to prepare all things, that he 1646. might fet out, as he did in the year 1540. \*»*V"s. I do not fay any thing of the particulars of I ^°- his journey, nor of the people he carried with him, becaufe I am not where I can have a diftinct information ; only that in which all agree, is, That he got together a good body of men, both Spaniards and In- dians ; for thefe laft relating what riches the Ingas ufed to draw from people who owned his empire in thofe parts, animated every body to this enterprize ; and Valdi- via feconding with addrefs thefe impref- fions, made a good army, with which he fet out from Peru. They had almoft perifh'd with cold, hun- ger, and other inconveniencies ; yet at laft they arriv'd, and advanc'd at firft with little difficulty; but as they went, enga- ging further in the country, ftill they found more oppofition : they firft came to the val- ley of Copiapo, which fignifies the Seed of Terquoifes ; for there is a rock of them, o f At '"'1 U0 'I e fo great a quantity, that they are grown ZdkyT lefs valuable upon it, as Herrera fays : it is Copiapo. a blue ftone, which makes a very good fhew. And fince now we enter this king- dom with more advantage, and upon a fteady foot of fettlement, it will not be amifs to defcribe the valleys and places where the cities were firft founded, and the other fettlements, that we may not be ob- lig'd to look back with an ufelefs repetition. The valley of Copiapo is the firft of the inhabited valleys of Chile, though the beft . . . part of the people are Indians, with a few ofthevallty Spaniards, out of which one is the Corrige- e/Copiap6. dor, who is named by the governor of Chile. The land is of it felf very fruitful, and is made more fo by a pleafant river, which runs about twenty leagues in it be- E e fore io6 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. Ovalle. fore it empties its felf into the fea in a bay l6 4 6 - which makes its harbour. Here grow all ^V"*-' forts of the natural fruits and grains of the country, and of Europe ; the raaiz yields above three hundred for one, and the ears of it are almoft half a yard long, as Herre- ra and other authors relate. Though I am not inform'd as to the particular of Valdi- via's reception here by the Indians, yet I fuppofe it was without much contradiction ; becaufe theft people were already accuf- tomed to the foreign yoke of the Ingas, and had already feen and received the Spa- niards out of refpect to the Inga Paulo, who accompanied Almagro , who gave them their lawful Cacique, or prince, as we have feen. They had the fame facility in the valleys of Guafco, which is about five and twenty or thirty leagues from Copiapo, and that of Coquimbo Limari, and as far as Quillota. Here the Indians took arms, and oppos'd the Caftilians vigoroufly ; engagino- them almoft daily, as people that came to conquer and fubdue their country. The governor Valdivia penetrated as far as the valley of Mapocho, though with the lofs of many of his men. He found this valley ex- Mapocho treamly well peopled, becaufe of its breadth, a rich in- fertility, andpleafantnefs, being thoroughly'^' wtU water' d by the river of that name, which, ff ^ after having run fome leagues, finks under ground, does not lofe itfelf entirely, but ap- pears more nobly, and comes out with a more powerful ftream two or three leagues further, being much bettered in its waters, which from muddy are turn'd clear as chryftal. CHAP. II. The Foundation of the City of St. Jago in Mapocho. The e Defiripion of its Situation. TOwards the eaft, the great Cordillera, or fnowy mountain, is a wall to this valley of Mapocho, and is in winter all over white, but in fummer by fpots here and there: to the weft it has the ragged rocks of Poiiangue, Caren, and Lampa, whofe foot we may fay is fhod with gold (for that which is found in its mines is fo fine, that The valley a g rea t deal was got out cf them.) Nei- ff/Mapochother is this valley uncovered on the fides; iiefcribed. f or t0 xh t north and fouth it is environed by other mountains, which, though they do not approach the Cordillera in height, yet are high enough to make a circle about this valley, which in feveral of its rocks produces gold : it is, in its diameter from the Cordillera to the hills of Poiiangue and Caren, five or fix good leagues, and from north to fouth, which is from the river Co- lima to that of Maypo, fevenor eight leagues more ; fo that its circumference is between 26 and 28 leagues or more, if we go down as far as Francifco del monte, which is a place of mod plealant fhady woods, where all the timber is cut for the building of the houfes. In this valley, two leagues from the great Cordillera, by the fide of the river Mapocho, God has planted a mountain of a beautiful afpect and proportion, which is like a watch-tower, upon which the whole plain is difcovered at once with the variety of its culture in arable and meadow ; and is other places woods of a fort of oak upon the hills, which afford all the fewel necefiary for the inhabited u ^ es °^ ^ e * ^ tne f° ot °f this mountain, 6y 80000 which may be two miles about, the Caftili- Indians. ans found many habitations of the Indians, to the number of eighty thoufand, as au- thors report ; which Pedro de Valdivia ob- ferving, and guefiing from thence, that ic was the beft part of the whole valley, he re- folved to found here the city of St. Jago, which he began the 24th of 'February in the year 1641. It ftands in 34 degrees of alti- tude, and longitude yy. diftant from the Meridian of Toledo 1980 leagues. The Defection form and ground-plot of this city yields to ofthefitua- few others, and is fuperior to moil of the um "{'^ old cities of Europe ; for it is regular, likejago{^;- a chefs-board, and in that lhape, and that tat of Chile. which we call the fquares for the men, of I<5 + 1 - black and white, are in the city called IJles, with this difference, that fome of them are triangular, fome oval, fome round ; but the fquare ones are all of the fame make and bignefs, and are perfectly fquare : from whence it follow, that wherefoever a man ftands at any corner he fees four ftreets, ac- cording to the four parts of the heavens. Thefe fquares at firft were but of four large houfes, which were diftributed to the firft founders •, but now, by time and fucceffion of inheritance, they have been divided into leffer, and are every day more and more divided ; fo that in every fquare there are many houfes. Towards the north, the city is watered by a pleafant river, till it fwells fometimes in winter, when it rains eight, nay twelve and fourteen days together without ceafing ; for then it overflows, and does great rnif- chief in the city, carrying away whole houfes, of which the ruins may be yet feen in fome places ; for this reafon they have rais'd a ftrong wall on that fide ; againft which the river lofing its ftrength, is thrown on the other fide, and the city thereby freed from this inundation. From Chap. 2. Kingdom of CHILE. 107 Theconve- From this river is drawn an arm on the nimcits of gjft.fide, which being fubdivided into as 'htctty. mar ^ ft'reams as there are fquares, enters into every one of them, and runs thorough all the tranfverfal ftreets by a conduit, or canal ; and bridges are every where, as ne- ceflity requires, for the paflage of carts: fo that all the houfes have a ftream of water, which cleanfes and carries with it all the filth of the city : and from this difpofition of water, 'tis eafy to water or overflow all the ftreets in the heat of fummer, without the trouble of carts or other conveniencies, and that without any charge. All thefe rivulets empty themfelves to the weft, and are let into the grounds without the city, to water the gardens and vineyards that are there : which being done, 'tis let into other fields, fowed with all forts of grain, and then returns to the great river. The inha- bitants do not drink of this water, though pretty good ; but it ferves to water horfes and other animals; therefore they fetch water from the river for their own drinking, or draw it from wells, which yield very good, and very cool: thofe who are yet nicer fend to the fprings and fountains, of ■which there are many in the neigh- bourhood, which yield moft excellent fweet water. The ftreets of this city are ail of the fame bigneis and proportion, broad enough for three coaches to go a- breaft eafily : they are paved on each fide near the houfes, and the middle is unpav'dOvALLE. for the paflage of carts. There is one ftreet ,*^' that is of an extraordinary breadth, and inJ^Q^^ it fifteen or fixteen coaches may go a- ftreet. bread ; this is to the fouth, and runs eaft and weft the whole length of the city : this is call'd La Cannada ; and though at firft it did not extend beyond the city, yet now it does, and has many buildings and gar- dens ; and there is the church of St. Laza- rus: but there are feveral fquares built fur- ther which enclofe in again, and fo it is in a good fituation. This Cannada is the beft fituation of the whole place, where there is always an air ftirring, fo as the inhabitants in the great- eft heats of fummer can fit at their doors, and enjoy the cool ; to which may be added the agreeable profpecl: it affords, as well becaufe of the buftle of carts and coaches, as of a grove of willows which is watered by a little rivulet from one end of the ftreet to the other : it is befides adorned with a famous convent of St. Francis, the church of which is all of a white free-ftone, all fquare ftone finely cut, and a fteeple of the fame at one end of it, fo high, that it is feen a great way off by thofe who came from other parts. It is divided into three parts, and has its galleries ; the upppermoft is a pi- ramid : from it one may difcover on all fides lovely profpecls, which delight the eye extreamly, and recreate the mind. CHAP. III. Of the other Edifices and Churches of the City of St. Jago. THIS city has (befide this ftreet, cal- led the Cannada, which might af- rhecity of ford many places, fuch as are in great St. jago cities) another very large one, named of further de- Sl Saturnino ; it has likewife the place of ' ' Santla Anna, where has been lately built a church dedicated to that glorious faint. There is alfo a place called La Placera de la Compania de Jefus, where the front of their church makes a figure, and is a re- treat or tabernacle upon the day of the proceffion of Corpus Chrifti. Moft of the other religious houfes have their places before the great porticos or entrance of their churches : but above all, is the place called the principal place, where all the bufinefs of law and commerce is driven. The two fides of the place that are eaft and fouth have buildings after the old way, though they have made very good new balconies to them, and large windows, to fee the bull-feafts and other publick diverfions which are made there. The north - fide is all upon arches of brick ; underneath which are the fcrivcners and publick notaries, as alfo the fecretarifhips of the royal Audiencia, and the town- Town L , houfe : and overhead are the royal lod- gings, with balconies to the place, with the great halls for the meeting of the town - houfe officers ; and in the middle are the audience-rooms of the royal chan- cery , with their galleries to the place : and, laftly, the royal apartments, where the royal officers are lodged ; and the rooms neceflary for the treafury and cham- ber of accounts, and lodgings for the of- ficers. The fide that lies to the weft has in it, firft, the cathedral church, which is of three ifles, befides its chapels, which it has on each fide : it is all of a fine white ftone ; the chief ifle, or that of the middle, be- ing upon arches and pillars of an airy and gallant architecture. The remainder of this fide to the corner is taken up with the epif- copal palace, which has a very fine garden, and noble apartments both high and low, with io8 Of the Nature and Properties of the Eook V. OvALLE.with a gallery fupported by pillars, which 1646. an f W er the place •, which, if it were equal- V^y%^ jy ^ u - j t on ^ ea ^. an( j f out h fides, would be one of the moft beautiful and agreeable places that can be ; for it is perfectly fquare, and very large, with a due regard to the whole plot of the city. I doubt not but in time the two old-fafhion'd fides will be pulled down, and others built on pillars and arches proportionably to the other fides. The greateft part of the buildings, (ex- cept the publick ones, which are of a rough ftone, but very hard, which the mountain of Santa Lucia affords, and is within the city, and fome great gates and windows which are of mouldings of ftone or brick,) that is to fay, the ordinary buildings, are of earth and ftraw well beaten together, which is fo ftrong, that I have feen great openings made in a wall, to make great gates after the modern way, and yet the wall, though a very high one, not feel it, though the houfe was none of the neweft, but almoft as ancient as the city ; for the fun bakes and hardens the earth and ftraw fo well together, that I have feen a piece of thofe walls fall from a high place, and not break in pieces, though fo big that a man could not carry it. At prefent the houfes that are built are of a better form, higher, and lighter than at firft, becaufe the firft conquerors were more intent upon getting gold, and fpending it in fumptuous treats, and high living, with fplendor and libera- lity, than in building palaces, as they might have done, by reafon they had many hands, and the ftone hard by. In matter of buildings, this city, as moft others of the Indies, may brag, that it imi- tated Solomon, who began with building the temple and houfe of God before he built his own palace. So the Spaniards have done all over the Indies, in this new world, in- heriting this cuftom from their anceftors of Old Spain ; for I remember, that travelling in Cajlella, I made this obfervation, that let the place or village be never fo fmall, yet it has a good church ; and even where the houfes were poor, and like dove-coats, the churches were of free-ftone, with a fteeple of the lame ; which gave me mat- ter of edification, confidering the piety of the faithful on this occafion. Juft fo the Spaniards of the Indies began firft to erect churches, with fo much appli- cation, that they do not feem buildings made within thefe hundred years •, but ra- ther fuch as one would think they had inhe- rited from their anceftors, or had been built by the gentiles ; and yet there is not a church in all the Indies, which they have not raifed from its foundation. We have already fpoke of the cathedral of St. J ago ; and much more might have been faid of its ftrength and beauty, and the ornament of its altars and facrifty. There are befides feve- ral other fine churches. That of St. Domingo, Defcriptim though not of ftone, is built upon arches oW tl:e , f brick, with a great many fine chapels on stJJomtn- each fide, particularly that of Niteftra Sen- go. nora del Rofario, which is all painted and gilt, and is frequented with much devo- tion. The covering of this church is of wood, and finely wrought, as well as the choir, which is alfo painted and gilded, with handfome knots and feftoons. The fa- crifty is full of ornaments of brocade of gold and filver, and embroidered filks of the fame -, a great deal of plate for the altar, and mouldings of the altar-piece all gilded. But this is nothing to the cloyfter, which by this time is made an end of, and is of a fine architecture, two ftories high ; and the lower, where the proceffion goes, is adorn- ed with exquifite paintings in the four cor- ners, where are four altars all gilded, and light as a bright flame : the apartment at the entrance is alfo finely fet off with pic- tures of faints of the order, of excellent hands. The convent of St. Francis may be eal-^' WBWW led a town for its largenefs : it has two^ St f'T cloyfters for the procefilons •, the firft is up-<^. on arches of brick ; and the fecond, which is the largeft, very finely painted, with the ftory of the life of the faint compared with paflages of our faviour Jefus Chrift's life ; and over, are all the faints of the order -, and at each corner four great pictures, with four altars, which ferve for the procefilons and ceremonies of holidays. The church is of free-ftone, and all its altars gilded on the infide ; but above all, the feats of the choir are a piece of rare workmanfhip : it is all of cyprefs, by which means there is always an admirable fmell. The firft row of feats reaches,with its crown- ing or ornaments, to the very roof, all of excellent architecture, with its mouldings, bafes, cornifhes, and other proportions. The church of our lady of the Mercede, is alfo built upon brick arches. The great chapel is admirable for the thicknefs of its wall, and the beauty of ceiling, which is all of cyprefs wood, in the form of a duomo, or cupola. The great cloyfter is begun up- on fo fine a model, that to finifh it fo, will require the care and application of thofe who have the government of that convent. The fituationof this.convent is the fineft and nobleft of any, except that of St. Francis : it has the advantage of receiving the river firft, whereby water is fo plentiful in the convent, that they have been able to make two mills to grind corn enough for the convent, and to give away. The Chap. 4. Kingdom of CHILE. 109 The convent of St. Auguftin is but newly- begun ; but its church, all of free-ftone, will out-do all the others for beauty : it is of three ifles, and in the midft of all the hur- ry and bufinefs of the town. 'Tis not many years that the facred or- der of the blefied Juan de Dios has been fet- tled in this kingdom •, and in a little time thofe fathers have done a great deal ; for having taken upon them the care of the royal hofpitals, they have reformed them, affifting the fick with all neatnefs, care, and diligence, and have added feveral large buildings. They are much helped in this by the devotion the people have for their founder, to whom they addrefs their prayers and vows in their wants and neceffities, and not in vain, for they feel great relief by his interceffion. The college of the company of J ejus has not been able to build the infide of the houfe, becaufe from their firft foundation the fathers have attended only the finifhing of the church ; which is now compafTed, and is without difpute the fineft next to the ca- thedral. It is all of a white (lone, the Ovaixe . front of an excellent architecture, and over v jf'^ > the cornifh a figure in relievo of a Jefus. D.f c „p t ; alf The great chapel has its cupola and \ant- of the je. horn all adorn'd with feftoons and knots oO u,t ' two forts of wood, white and red, which c ' makes a beautiful fhew. The covering or roof is all of cyprefs, inlaid with all forts of flower-work, and divided into five parts ; the middlemoit is a compofure of all forts of figures, which feem a labyrinth to thole who fee it from the ground, and with a noble cornifh that runs round, gives a delightful profpecl:. The architecture of the altar, and the tabernacle for keeping the holy facrament, are valued at a prodigious fum. The altar rifes to the top of the church ; and becaufe, according to art, it ought to have reached from wall to wall, which it does not, the empty places are filled up with two reliqua- ries on each fide, which join to the altar : this being all gilded, feems, when one firfl comes in, to be one plate of gold. CHAP. IV. Of the Civil Government , both ecclejiajlical and fecular , of the City of St. Jago j and of the Nature and ^Properties of its Inhabitants. (~~1 OVE R N M E NT is the foul of the Govern- ment of yjf body-politick ; and therefore, at the fame time that the city of St. Jago was founded, the corporation was fettled to ad- minifter juftice, without which no govern- ment can ftand. The corporation confifts of two ordinary alcaldes, an alferes royal, an alguazil mayor, a general depofitarius, fix councellors, or aldermen, chofen every year, half out of the gentlemen called en- comenderos, and half out of the inhabi- tants of the place, who have bought that privilege for themfelves and their defen- dants. . Of the two alcaldes, he that is of the encomenderos has the precedence and firft vote, and the inhabitant the other : they divide the year between them by fix months. There is a prefident to the affem- bly, who is always corrigedor, and lieute- nant to the captain-general ; and it is a place of great honour : and though it be of more charge than profit, by reafon of the expence belonging to it unavoidable, yet it never fails of pretenders, becaufe of its authority, and the refpeft paid to the of- fice. They are chofen yearly, with the two alcaldes, two others of the holy fra- ternity, or hermandad, whofe jurifdidion is without the bounds of the city, as is prac- The court tifed in other parts. About thirty years of the royal ago there was founded a royal chancery in «H(ttenct*. t his city, which confifts of a prefident, four Vol. III. oydores, or counfellors, and two fifcals ; one who is the ordinary, and another, who has been added within thefe four years, and has the fame honours, who has the protec- tion of the Indians, and the matters belong- ing to the holy cruzada. After thefe is the alguazil mayor de corte, who has alfo the magiftrate's habit, and a chair of ftate : then are the officers called the chancellor, fecretaries, referendaries, and others, as in fuch courts. There is no appeal from the fentence of review given in this court, but to the royal council of the Indies ; and then there is a certain fum, below which there is no appeal neither. It cannot be denied but the majefty of this tribunal has very much adorned the city ; though ther&want not thofe who lament the hindrance it has given to its riches and increafe, which would have been more confiderable, if the inhabitants had continued in their firft fim- plicity, cloathing themfelves with the ma- nufactures of the country, and avoiding all thofe pompous liveries which are now in ufe ; for thofe who before might walk in the publick place in a plain drefs of the country, and be honoured and refpected, muft now appear in filk, or Spanijh cloth, which yet is dearer than filk, for a yard of it cofts fometimes twenty pieces of eight. Any gentleman of eftate cannot now appear decently in publick, without many fervants Ff in no Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. OvALLE.in rich liveries ; and within a few years 1646. they have brought up a vanity of rich pa- V*V"' W ' rafols, or umbrellos, which at firft were on- ly ufed by the people of the greateft qua- lity ; and now no body is without them, but thofe who cannot compafs them ; and though it is a thing of great gravity, and very ufeful to preferve health, yet it in- creafes thofe forced expences ufed in great cities : for this, and fome other reafons, fome were of opinion, that it would have been better for the city and kingdom, that they had continued to govern themfelves without this court of a royal audiencia, as they did formerly : but, to fay truth, they are in the wrong ; for, firft, there are ma- ny cities in the Indies, where, without a court of this nature, I have feen vanity thrive in liveries and fuperfluous expences as much as any where. Secondly, becaufe, ab- ftracting from paflion and intereft, which commonly do miflead men in the admini- ftration of juftice, it cannot be denied but that the fovereign authority of this tribunal is of great weight to maintain the quiet of the kingdom, by keeping an even hand in the adminiftration of juftice, and not fuf- fering that the tyranny fome affect, either by reafon of their preferments or riches, fhould ftifle right reafon, or opprefs inno- cency, which has not learn'd to court and flatter. The audien- Thus a royal audiencia is a bridle to vice, chef great a reward to virtue, a protection to the poor, Advantage and a maintenance of right and reafon •, nthedty. an j j-j^g was tne intention f our catholick monarch : for this reafon did he erect this court, which is the more neceflary, becaufe it is at that diftance from the royal prefence, and fo hard that the cries of the poor fhould reach his ears ; for if fometimes they do ar- rive to his court, 'tis fo faintly, that they can fcarce be heard : for this reafon, thofe who have the chufing and fending the king's officers into fuch remote parts, ought to be the more careful to provide men of chriftian principles, and well intentioned, as indeed they have been, and are ftill in that king- dom.; and it is no more than is necefTary, for a good example to thofe new chriftians the Indians. This royal audiencia is the caufe likewife, that much gentry comes from Europe to the Indies, and fo help to people them, and to continue the good intercourfe between S/w'm and that country, which is good for both. It cannot likewife be denied, (though that be but as an accefibry,) that the prefence and afiiftance of this royal tribunal at all publick feafts and exercifes, is of great coun- tenance to them, and particularly to the li- terary acts and commencements, whereby learning is encouraged ; and thofe who em- ploy themfelves in that honourable ftudy have a reward before their eyes, hoping to attain to be advocates, referendaries, fifcals and counfellors: for in the Wejl Indies thofe places are all very honourable, and particu- larly in Chile, where the falaries are larger than in other parts, and yet provifions are cheaper ; fo that 'tis eafy to lay up a good part of one's revenue. Befides thefe tribu- nals, there are others, as that of the chamber of accounts, or treafury, for the manage - ment and adminiftration of the king's re- venue : thefe officers do likewife vifit the fhips that come in and out at the port of Valparifo : their offices are very honourable, and of great profit, and they are in the king's gift, as thofe of the royal audiencia are. The affairs of juftice, and things belong- ing to good government, are under the au- diencia ; but thofe of war and preferments belong to the governor, of whom we fhall fpeak in a proper place. The bifhop is abfolute lord of all the 7 *'*'^ church government ; and though the bi-^S/i/- fhoprick of St. J ago is none of the rkhe&tiealsgms. of the Indies, becaufe all the product of the earth is fo cheap, and by confequence the tithes do not rife high, yet this very abun- dance is part of the riches of the bifhoprick j for by this means the bifhop's family and expences are the eafier fupplied, and he may keep more attendance, and yet lay up a good part of his revenue ; whereas other bifhopricks, though richer, have enough to do to keep up the decency of their dig- nity. There is a numerous clergy, who make a great cortege to the bifhop upon certain publick days ; and when he is recei- ved the firft time, and takes poneifion, the ceremony is very great ; for part of the royal audiencia, the chapters, all the mili- tia, horfe and foot, with the people, go out to meet him ; fo that 'tis a day of great pomp. The chapter of the cathedral is a vene-^'*L rable body of men, in which the king alone 'the king. provides the vacancies by virtue of his royal patronage, and the conceffion of the popes ; fo that there is not, as in Spain, the bifhop or the pope's month ; but in the Indies all dignities of cathedrals, even to the very pa- rifh priefts, are all at the king's nomination, but with fome differences ; for the dignities are beftowed in Spain itfelf by the advice of the council of the Indies ; but the cures or livings of parifh priefts, the king does beftow them by his governor or prefident, who expofes a publick edict, that all oppo- fers for the vacancy of fuch a benefice may come and oppofe the examination ; and of thefe, die bifhop prefents three to the go- vernor-general, to chufe in the king's name. The holy tribunal of the inquifition, which is in Lima, ferves for all the whole fouth Chap. 5. Kingdom of CHILE. in fouth America ; fo that in Chile there is on- ly a commiflary, with his officers and fami- liars, who accompany him in all publick acts, and form a tribunal with great autho- rity. There is likewife an officer of the Cruzada, called a commiflary, which is likewife a poft of great authority ; and the day that the bull is publifhed, all the or- ders of the religious are bound to be at the proceflion. chnrafter j-^ us conc i uc J e this chapter by faying ttvts. "" fomething of the natives who are born and bred in this city : They are generally in- genious, and of good parts ; and thofe whofe inclination is to learning, fucceed ve- ry well •, but they naturally are more in- clined to war, very few of them taking to other employments, either of trade or bufi- nefs ; and they who, from their infancy, or by a ftrong inclination, do not take to learn- ing, feldom fucceed, and eafily leave it, if put upon it, to follow the found of a drum or a trumpet, and never are quiet till they get to be enrolled as foldiers being much better pleafed with the liberty of a foldier's life, than with thedifcipline of the Ovalle , fchools. vlSSL, They are much addicted to horfeman- ^v^ fhip : and I have often feen, that to ftreng- then a child that can hardly go, the beft way is to fet him on horfeback : this makes them prove dexterous horfemen, and bold. And 'tis a common opinion, and a known experience, that for horfe, one of the coun- try is better than four from abroad : this has been fufficiently proved in the courfe of fo long a war as that which has bufied that kingdom. They are naturally liberal, goodnatured, and friendly, particularly if they are treat- ed honourably, with due regard : they are pretty ftubborn and wilful ; to be led only by fair means, and then they are docile and tractable ; but if force is ufed, they do worfe and worfe. This we the fathers of the fociety do often experience in our col- leges : fo we are obliged to lead them by fweetnefs and emulation, rather than by ri- gour and harfhnefs. CHAP. V. Of the Riches j Militia , Studies, and Increafe of the City of St. Jago. THIS city, to which the king has gi- ven the title of moft noble and loyal, is the capital city of Chile, and one of the beft in the Indies, next to thole two royal ones of Lima and Mexico, who do exceed it in fumptuous edifices, in people and trade, becaufe they are more antient and nearer Spain, and of a greater paflage for the peo- ple that come from Europe, and free from the tumults of war ; which is a canker that eats deepeft into great cities and kingdoms ; and 'tis no fmall proof of their force, to be able to maintain fo long a war. . I This city was founded one hundred and efthe city, four years ago •, and it has all that while fuf- tained the heavy load of a long and ftub- born war, which the native Indians have made upon the Spaniards without any inter- miflion ; in which its inhabitants have ei- ther always been in arms, or fending many horfes and provifion to the camp ; a cala- mity, which, far from letting it grow to what it is, ought to have kept it down from the beginning : nor is it of a fmall confideration, for the growth of other cities in the Indies to reflect, that they being in the way, and, as it were, upon the paf- fage of other places, many newcomers have fettled there, who perhaps at firft were bound for other countries, or at leaft were indifferent where they ftay'd, and took up with them. 'Tis otherwife with the city of St. Jago, becaufe the kingdom of Chile being fo remote, and the laft of all the Spa- mjlj dominions, it is the non-plus-ultra of the world'; fo that no body goes thither by chance, but on purpofe, and upon fome de- fign or particular intereft ; for which reafon the number of ftrangers is little. But the city is fo good and convenient tOTherichis. pafs away life with eafe, that notwithftand- ing thefe difadvantages, it is fo increafed, that it aftonifhes all who fee it, few cities of the Indies outdoing it in finery, particu- larly as to the women, (it were to be wifli- ed it were not to that excels ;) for all things coming from Europe are there prodigious dear ; and this caufes many families to run behind hand. Who fhould fee the place of St. Jago, and that of Madrid, could fee no difference as to this point, nay, as to the women, the finery exceeds that of Madrid; for the Spanijh women, fcorning to go to fer- vice, are all ladies, and love to appear as fuch, as much as they can ; and the emula- tion between them about fine cloaths, jewels, and other ornaments, for themfelves and their fervants, is fuch , that let their husbands be ne- ver fo rich they want all they have, parti- cularly if they are of the nobility, to fatisfy the pride of the women. As to the militia of the city, the firft Miliiin. part of it is the company of inhabitants, en- comenderos, and reformed captains, who have no other commander but the governor himfelf, or his deputy ; after that, there are two or three troops of horfe, and three or four companies of foot, all Spaniards. Thefe often mufter on holidays, and are exercifed in the ufe of their arms ; and fometimes there ii2 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. Ovaixe. there are general mufters before the oydores 1646. anc j royal officers, where their arms are ex- >«^Y^> am i n 'd ; who alfo note them down, to know what ftrength they can raiie upon occafion, punilhing fuch as do not keep their arms and horfes fit for fervice. By this diligence they are very ready at their arms, and the exercifing of them proves an entertainment for them and the whole city ; for very of- ten, in the publick proceflions, one or two of thefe companies ufe to come out, and make a falvo for them ; and in the holy week there always attend a troop of horfe, and a company of foot, who guard the ftreet, where the proceffions of the whip- pers go to keep the peace, becaufe of the Indians, who ufe to take that time to make fome rifings, the Spaniards being wholly taken up with their devotions. The days in which this milicia makes the beft lhew, are, when the bilhops come to be receiv'd, becaufe they make a lane from the entrance of the city to the great place of it, where they form their battalion •, and the concourfe of the people ufes to be fo great, that though the place is very large, there is fcarce room for them. The vafi And fince we are upon that fubject, we increa/e of ca nnot omit to obferve that which is wor- * e " y % thy of admiration, and that is, to fee how it is increas'd in the number of Spaniards within thefe forty years. 'Tis probable, the fame has happened to the other cities of the Indies ; but this has had a continual drain, by fupplying foldiers for the war with the Indians, where many perifh, and few return. I remember that I have heard fay, that one of our fathers, newly come from Europe, and coming to our college, where he law but few people in the ftreet, cried out, Apparent ran nantes in gurgite vajlo. By which he meant to fignify, the dif- proportion of the inhabitants to the bignefs of the city ; but now that very ftreet is fo full of people, that all hours of the day, and fome of the night, it is extremely fre- quented ; for there have been built many houfes for handicraftfmen and fhopkeepers on both fides of it, becaufe trade is confi- derably increas'd. I can myfelf affirm, that I obferv'd as great an alteration in a much lefs time, as well in people as in building ; for having been abfent but eight years, I confefs, that at my return, I fcarce knew the place again ; for I found feveral ground fpots where there was not a houfe built upon, with very good buildings -, and thofe which I had left built were alter'd to the better, with more and higher apartments •, and the courts which were very large, were confiderably ftreigh- tened by other buildings-, and yet the plot of the city was larger too ; fo that being at firft built at the foot of the mountain we have fpoken of, to the weft of it, I found it extended as much to the eaft, and the fame proportionably to the fouth and north, and it increafcs daily towards the river, and the Cannada. There was, when I left the place, about i*"t*[t f a dozen ftiops of good retailers, and at my tr **' return there were above fifty ; and the lams proportionably as to the fhops of fhoe-ma- kers, taylors, carpenters, fmiths, goldfmiths, and other handicraftfmen, whom I found alfo more curious and exact in their pro- feffions •, and emulation has produced very good pieces of workmanfhip in gold and filver, and carvings in wood , gildings, paintings, which have adorn'd the churches, with thofe which have been brought from Europe, and the particular houfes ; fo that in fome houfes alone, there are more things of that kind now, than there were in all the city formerly. Some complain, that there are not now fuch rich and powerful men as there were at firft -, and that is true : but it does not follow, that the generality is the worfe for that, but rather otherwife ; for the lands and houfes which belong now to ten families, were antiently in one; it being certain, that feveral of the heirs of that man have attain'd to as great riches as he himfclf had ; or at leaft 'tis apparent, that the ftock of all thofe who have fhar'd the inheritance, far exceeds what was left them ; fo that fuppofing, that fome were formerly richer, yet the riches are more in the land ; which is alfo clear to any that fhall confider the houfes, pofiefiions, and other improvements made fince that time ; for now there is fcarce room for the people, whereas before there was not half people for the room that was for them ; which is alfo vifible in the country round about, where farms that could hardly find pur- chafers, and were little worth, are now fo rifen in their value, that the fmalleft coft great fums ; and this rage of purchafing is fuch, that moft of the caufes in the royal audiencia are about titles ; for the antients, who took pofleffion of the land, thought, that if they had a little footing in a valley, it was all theirs ; but thofe who have come fince, have purchafed by virtue of new ti- tles, and taken new poflefuon ; which makes fo many law-fuits. There is not a form'd regular univerfity in this city, becaufe that of Lima ferv'd for all the neighbouring kingdoms and pro- vinces to take the degrees ; but when in time the going to Lima was found fo charge- able, and the journey, which is of three or four hundred leagues, fo troublcfome, there were bulls obtain'd of the pope, for the Chap. 6. Kingdom of C H I L E. 113 The pope's the orders of St.Dominick and the jefuits, buUs , ,'t to have the privilege of conferring the de- taind for r i i i r • c the domtni-%*vz% of batchelor, licentiate of arts, as cans and je- alfo doctors in divinity, in the kingdoms fuinucon- f chi i ei> Granada, Ruito, Chuquizaga, Tit- ter e^rees. cuman ^ anc j ~p ara g lia y. The effect has fhewed how neceflary this favour, and how important this privilege has been •, for this incitement to honour has caus'd a general application to learning ; for the priefts and curates are already great proficients in ftudy, and fo more capable of taking upon them the cure of fouls ; and thofe who betake themfelves to a reli- gious life, are better qualified to ferve their orders, and be an honour to them, as ma- ny of them are •, and it does not a little contribute to the value of them, to fee the great folemnity us'd at the reception of the feveral graduates. And in this, as well as the reft, I think our city of St. Jago is not inferior to any : for, firft, all the acts are held with great concourfe of all the learned, and very often the bifhop honours them with his prefence, and fo do the prefident of the audiencia, and the chief of the town-government, to whom are dedicated the fubjects of the extempory readings, ac-OvAXLE. cording to the conftitution of the univerfi- ,*j^' ty, which are given out with great fidelity, ^-^V^*^ dividing the fubject into three parts, for the graduate to difpute upon in prefence of a great concourfe of people ; and the fe- verity is indifpenfable in this and all other examinations, for the different degrees which are given by the bifhop, by virtue of an approbation firft given him by the father rector and the profefibrs, as the bull directs ; according to which there is no obligation of giving any treat ; but yet that the doctors may affift with more plea- fure and diligence, there has been introdu- ced a cuftom of giving fome moderate ones, befides gloves, which were allowed inftead of it ; but fome out of oftentation, give both treat and gloves. Befides this, there has been introduc'd a cuftom of inviting the horfe of the city to honour the procef- fion, which makes the folemnity the more confpicuous; and they very willingly ac- cept of the invitation, for they are very ready to mount on horfeback to honour any, much more thofe who diftinguifh themfelves by the exercifes of virtue and learning, CHAP. VI, Of the JVorfhip of God y and the Church Ceremonies in the City of St. Jago. Religious | ixorfliifve- I ry fiately tmd expert five. F we were to make a judgment of this city by the worfhip of God that is perform'd in it, and the appearance of the clergy, we fhould judge it to be much big- ger than it is; for the flate and expence with which the holidays are kept, in the charge of mufick, perfumes, wax, and other ornaments, are very great : let us give fome particular inftances, and begin with the ca- thedral. I cannot but commend the piety of thofe eminent perfons, the bifhop, pre- fident, and counfellors of the royal audien- cia, who taking each of them a day during the ottave of the holy facrament, are at the whole expence of that day, and that is very confiderable ; for all the wax and per- fumes are very dear, as coming from Eu- rope ; and the holy emulation that is be- tween them, increafes the fplendor of the day ; fo that during that ottave, the church is fo perfum'd, that its fragrancy is fmelt fome diftance from it. The proceffion of the firft and eighth day are upon the ac- count of the chapter, as the hanging of the ftreets, and erecting of altars for repofito- ries, are at the charge of the inhabitants where the proceffion paffes : this proceffion is attended by all the convents, and all the companies of trades, with their banners and flags, fo that it reaches a great way. After this of the cathedral come every day • Vol. III. new ones of all the convents, fo that they laft a month, every one endeavouring to have theirs the beft ; by which means there are great variety of ornamental inventions and machines. The Indians of the neigh- bourhood, that live in the Chagras, that is, little cottages, within fome miles of the city, attend likewife with their banners ; and they chufe for this purpofe a leader who makes the expence, and treats thofe of his company : their numbers are fo great, and the noife they make fo loud, with their flutes, and their hollowing and finging, that they are placed in the front, or elfe there would be no hearing the church mu- fick, nor any means of underftanding one another about the government of the pro- ceffion. The other feafts and holidays in the year are proportionably folemniz'd with the fame decency by all the orders of friers, who all of them have fome devout perfons who help to bear the charge. But the nuns exceed all the reft in ornaments; and thefe nunneries are fo populous, that in that of St. Auflin alone there are above five hun- dred perfons, whereof three hundred are veiled nuns, the reft are lay-fifters ; and be- caufe the nunnery being full, there can be no more receiv'd, but with great difficulty, the other nunnery of SanRa Clara receives fo many every day, that in a little time it G g will ii 4 Of the Nature and Properties of the Eook V. OvALtE.will equal the other in number, as it does 1646. already in the pomp and ornament of its V-yv/ church-fervice ; that which thefc angels of heaven, (for fo we may juftly call thole who with fo much piety and anxiety do ferve God continually, and are as a wall of defence to the city,) that which they do moft fhine in, can hardly be exprefs'd as to the neatnefs, curiofity, and richnefs of their altars, and the church-ornaments. "What fhall I fay of the fmells, artificial flowers, fruits, chocolates, paftillos, and perfuming pots, which I have feen fome- times of fo great a fize, that they (truck me with admiration, confidering the mat- ter they are made of, which is of a refin'd fugar, as white as fnow, fometimes in form of a caftle, fometimes of a candleftick, or a pyramid moft exquifitely wrought. They are not content with this ; for I have fometimes feen the whole grate of the choir, and the joiners work, and beams of the church, all cover'd with preferv'd ci- tron, in form of funs or angels of mezzo relievo, and a thoufand other inventions, which I fhould never have done, if I mould report them all. 1 mull only fay, that the generofity of thofe ladies is fuch, that though this cofts very much, yet I have of- ten feen them at the end of a mafs diftri- bute all thofe things to thofe who happen to be in the church, without keeping it for themfelves : they do not only do this with- in the church, but the altars which are frt up in their cloyfters, and ftreets near them j for the proceffions are. adorn'd, after the lame manner, with fruits and flowers of the fame materials, fo well imitated, that they appear new-gather'd. The monafteries of men are not fo well The monaf. fill'd as thofe of the nuns, though iomt' er,es "f have a hundred, others fixty or feventy^'^'^ friers. The fecular clergy is alfo very nu- - / J handkerchief applies it to the eyes, as cry- ing, and then opening the arms, embraces the crofs, and kneeling kifies the foot of ic once or twice : all this it does fo dexteroufly, and becomingly, that one would fwear it were a living creature : and this action be- ing accompanied with the mufick of the day proportioned to the grief of the myfte- ry, 'tis incredible what effects it has upon the people, who croud one upon another to fee it. On the Saturday, and on Eajler-day in the morning, there are other proceffions. The firft comes out of St. Domingo, and is of the gentlemen and citizens, who in this are cloathed in white, of moft rich cloth of filver or filk, finely garnifhed with jewels and chains of gold. The ceremony of the refurrection is celebrated by night in the cloyfter ; and for that end there is fuch an illumination, that it feems day. The pro- ceffion goes out very noble and gay, and in it are many lights, mufick, and dances, the ftreets being all adorned with triumphal arches, and hung with tapeftries; and while this proceffion is in the cathedral, celebra- ting the mafs, and communicating the holt to the brothers, there comes anothet to the great place to meet it, another from the college of the jefuits, which is a con- frary of Indians, the moft ancient of the city, confifting of a company of Indians of both fexes, who, with torches in then- hands, accompany the child Jefus drefs'd up after the Indian fafhion, (which caufes great concern and devotion : ) they have al- fo many colours, enfigns, and other orna- ments, very rich and gay. At the fame time two other proceffions of Indians like- wife fet out from the convents of St. Fran- cis, and Nueftra Sennora de la Mercede, and another of Morenos from St. Domingo, all with a great apparatus of drums, trumpets, colours, hautboys, dances, which make that morning appear very gay and merry ; and that it may be fo to our faviour refuf- citated, they all communicate, and give a happy Eafter to the divine majefty and all heaven, to which the earth can never pay a greater tribute than by the converfion of finners, particularly of thefe new chriftians, whofe anceftors adored but the other day their idols ; and now they acknowledge, and kneel before the true God, and fit with him at his table, as grandees of his court ; they, who not long before were flaves of the devil, CHAP. n6 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. OVALLE. 1646. CHAP. VIII. Of/ome other Holidays of the City of St. Jago. ON E of the things in which the great- nefs of a city fhews itfelf moft, is, in its feaft, holidays, and publick entertain- ments : we will touch a little on thofe of St. Jago ; and, befides the fecular ones of bull-feafts, running at the ring, Juego de Carinas, tournaments, illuminations, and other diverfions in which this city mines, it is wonderful how well there are celebra- ted the publick rejoicings for the birth or marriage of their prince, in univerfal ca- ' nonizations of faints, and in all other fo- lemnities, but particularly thofe ordered by his majefty, as that was about thirty years ago, when his majefty, out of his great piety, ordered, in honour of the queen of angels, that the myftery of her holy immaculate conception fhould be ce- lebrated in all his kingdoms, as well by the feculars, as by the churchmen •, and the firft indeed need no incitement in this matter, every one being ready to fhew their ac- knowledgements to this fovereign queen of heaven, who has favoured more particular- ly the kingdom of Chile with her protection from the beginning. Let us now lay what the city of St. Jago did upon this occafion, that the affection with which the inhabitants correfpond to what they owe to this illuftrious queen of heaven may be manifefted, and fome proof given of what they can do on fuch oc- cahons ■, and letting alone what was done by all the convents and monafteries, I come to other particulars, to which three poeti- cal contefts gave rife : thefe were publifhed folemnly on horfeback through the town, with the company of the town magiftrates, and all the gentry, without exception. The firft of thefe troops were defrayed by the cathedral, the fecond by the celebrated mo- naftery of the conception, the third by the congregation of ftudents founded in our college •, and in all thefe there were prizes propos'd of great value for the poets ; and thole who obtained them, had them given to them with great folemnity ; and there were feveral reprefentations, with other di- verfions according to the cuftom of that country. And fince we are fpeaking of what hap- pened in thofe holy feafts, let us not forget as remarkable a pafiage as any: the day which it fell to the lot of our college to ce- lebrate its feaft, the father provincial, who was to preach before mafs, felt himfelf fo mov'd with love and devotion to the fove- reign virgin, that in a fit of extraordinary zeal he invited the people to come after dinner to the procefiion of our church, and to fing before the image of our lady that ballad which was in thofe days fo famous, and begins : All the world in general Saysfo, chofen queen of heaven, That you are conceiv d even Without fin original. The auditory was much edified with the piety of the good father, but fmiled at his propofal as impracticable ; yet they all came at the hour, moft out of curiofity to fee the event of this novelty : they all took olive-branches in their hands, and began the procefiion while our fathers fung the ftanzas. It was wonderful that the fame a (Irmgi fpirit which moved the father to fuch an '"[?"■<"">* extraordinary invitation, moved alfo all the"" '** people to fing before the image of our la- 'JeifsT dy, which they carried thus to the cathe-kify t» dral ; out of which the clergy coming \aP n S. in i- meet, and finging the church-hymns, the noife of the others finging was fo great, that the canons were forced to give over, and accompany the people in their ftanzas, finging altogether like fo many children. They looked one another in the face, ad- miring at what they were doing, being fcarce able to believe; and if I my felf had not feen it, knowing, as I do, the natural gravity of that people, I fhould not have believed it neither ; but the inward force of devotion can do any thing, when the lord of hearts makes ufe of it to exalt the immaculate purenefs of his mother. The rejoicings and entertainments upon 4 very ex . this occafion lafted many days ; one of them fenf,ve fell to the lot of the congregation of natural ma fv e ' Spaniards founded in our college, who made' a very ingenious and coftly mafquerade, representing all the nations of the world, with their kings and princes all cloth'd after their own fafhion, with their attendants, and laft of all the pope, to whom each na- tion came,with its king, to defire his holinels to favour this myftery. The liveries were ve- ry coftly, and there was a triumphal chariot, a great machine, in which was reprefented the church : but that which was moft char- gable was the wax, which is very dear there ; and this entertainment was given by night. The other days were divided among the Negroes and Indians of all arts and profef- fions, who having a pious emulation to each other, made many rare inventions; but the merchants carried the bell in a tour- nament rude. Chap. 8. Kingdom of CHILE. 117 nament, which they perform'd in the great place, each adventurer coming either out of a lea, or a wood, or an enchanted caftle, with his paper or challenge, acling their parts very well : they broke their -lances, and receiv'd their prizes, which were things of great value. The gentlemen of the city crown'd the feaft with their ufual diverfions of bull-feafts, running at the ring Juego de Cannes, &c. There are generally about twenty or thirty horfemen to attack the bulls, and throw the rejous or lances at them, befides him who ftrikes the bull dead. The illuminations of torches, with which they ufe to run about all night, are alfo of great diverfion -, and upon this occafion they did it with rich liveries, and other chargeable expences, for the greater folem- nity of the time. The ordinary and annual rejoicings which are obferv'd on M-idfnmmer, on St. John's- day, St. James's, and the Nativity of ' our Lady, are alfo worth feeing, particularly on the day of St. J ago, who is the patron of the city ; for then the royal enfign of the crown brings out the great ftandard of the conqueft, with the king's arms, and is ac- companied by all the gentry, who are oblig'd to appear on that occafion, which they do very glorioufiy. Marriages There happen likewife fome marriages and chrif- or c hriftenings of the people of beft falhion, hbrxted"' m which they make as good a fhew as their vnthgreit eftates will let them, and often above their fomp and abilities. In the bull-feafts, thofe who un- ex pence. dtrtzkz t hem ufe to treat the royal audien- cia, and other bodies corporate; but in marriages they are profufe, for the prefents to the bride have been brought in falhion to be very rich, fuch as (laves, carpets, fcrutores fill'd with gold and jewels, and other curiofities of great value. There is not lefs fpent in treats and banquets, parti- cularly of" late years, that they have taken to counterfeiting natural fruits, and other things, which ferve for the fideboard ; fo that after a man has given a treat of all forts of 'birds and fifties, his entertainment is not gallant enough, if he does not add a defert of preferv'd citrons in all figures of love-knots, &c. and the other fruits imita- ted after nature : thefe they mingle on the cloth, with the figures of ewers, faltfellers, jars, falvers, difties, fpoons, forks, knives, all made of citron, cover'd with leaves of gold and filver ; and the firft thing the guefts do, when they fit down, is to plun- der the table of thefe, for there are real ones of gold and filver for the banquet. Ovalle. All this cofts extreamly, becaufe the fu- ^J^ 6 ' gar comes from Peru, and the manufacture ^»" w of all thefe curiofities is very dear ; many are the guefts ; and befides the wedding- dinner, the fathers give another the next day as fumptuous. This is what no body of fafhion can help doing. I have heard formerly, that at firft there were gentlemen, who, upon any of thefe publick rejoicings, would do it all at their own charges, gi- ving them all liveries of velvet, at the run- ning of the ring for example ; and yet then velvet was twice as dear as it is now. But at prefent that is left oft, though they make expences equivalent in collations, bonefires, and other contrivances of great fhew ; for upon thefe occafions they all think them- felves rich enough, which is a great ruin to families, every one (training out of vanity to equal another, though the difference in riches be very great. And now let us leave St. J ago, which has detain'd us more than ordinary, to fa- tisfy the curiofity of thofe who are defirous to know the increafe and progrefs of the cities and colonies of that new world, and how the chriftian cuftoms and government have begun to flourifh in it •, and by this effay a judgment may be made of thofe fettlements. I pafs on to the particulars of the conqueft of that kingdom, that I may afterwards give an account of the progrefs of the chriftian faith, and the great hopes there is of its greater propagation. And becaufe fome curious perfons do defire to know fome particulars of the colonies and fettlements of that new world ; and that it may be agreeable to the reader to know the form given by the firft founders to their cities, I have thought convenient to give here the ground-plot of the city of St.Jago y with all its ftreets, houfes, and publick place, with the names of the churches and convents, and the ftreets that anfwer them, they being the principal buildings of a chriftian commonwealth ; by which it may be known how other towns and cities in thofe parts are contriv'd, for they moft of them follow this plot or model. And be- caufe fome judgment may be made of the buildings, I have likewife given the city in perfpeclive, as it looks to thofe who come from the Peru fide, and enter by the great ftreet call'd the Cannada ; though the cu- pola of the jefuits, and the tower of the convent of St. Francis, with other high buildings, are difcern'd many leagues off, Vol. III. Hh CHAP. u8 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. OVALLE. 1646. CHAP. IX. The Governor Pedro de Valdivia purfues his Conqueft. The Gold Mines are begun to be wrought. He fends T roofs of their Richnefs to Peru ; from i whence the General Juan Baptifte Paftene brings him the frji Succours. A demon- flrative proof of the riches cf Chile intended. The dtfign mi/curries. TH E governor Pedro de Valdivia ha- ving founded the city of St. J ago, be- gan to think of fortifying himfelf in that poft, to defend himfelf againft the fury of the Indians, with whom he was every day cngag'd ; and many men were loft on both fides, fo that his men began to be uneafy, and talk of going back to Peru, zsAlma- gro had done : for though they faw the richnefs of the country, yet it appear'd to them dearly bought, fince they could not get any of it without running great hazards by the many engagements that they had with the enemy ; fo that they gave their lives for gone. The governor Pedro de Valdivia was not ignorant of the difficulty of his enterprize ; but yet encourag'd by the hopes of fuccefs at laft, he refolv'd ra- ther to die than give it over ; and being an experienced foldier, bred in the wars of Europe, he refolv'd to raife a fort for the defence of his men, being convinc'd of the bravery of the enemy he had to do with ; and though he was inform'd of a general rifing, which the Indians defign'd, he fent feventy men to make an incurfion towards the river of Cachapoal. The Indians ta- king the opportunity of the abfence of thefe men, attack d the fort, and had gain'd it if the Spaniards had not Ihewed incredible valour in the defence of it till the other men return'd ; and by their afiiftance they re- pulfed the Indians, and remain'd conquerors. The governor made good ufe of this ad- vantage, both with the Indians and his own men •, fo that having quieted them, he be- gan to work upon the mines of Quillota, which were of great fame : they prov'd fo rich, and yielded fuch a quantity of gold, that he thought it advifable to make a fort there for the fecurity of his men ; but find- ing want of hands, by the lofies he had had, he refolv'd to fend to Peru for relief. This he put in execution, giving at the fame time an account of the richnefs and fruit- fulnefs of the country, to incite people ; and becaufe ocular teftimony perfuades more than what we only hear of, he trufted fix men, whom he fent along with thirty others, to have a great deal of gold with them, caufing befides the ftirrups of their horfes, and all that is employed of iron work about the bridles and faddles, to be made of maf- fy gold, making the ftirrups very great and large on purpofe. But all this defign was difappointed ; for thefe men, who were thus gilded like funs, were, when they came to the valley of Copiapo, fallen upon by the Indians, and all perifh'd but two, who were Pedro de Miranda, and Monroy, officers, who got away by the help of their horfes ; but being purfued by the Indians through mountainous ways, and their horfes tiring, they were taken by an Indian captain, call'd Cateo, who had a company of archers : they tied their hands behind them, and carried them to their cacique, who defign'd to put them to death. This cacique was married to the heirefs of all this valley, (for their inheritances follow the women, for greater fecu.hy of the right line,) and when thefe two were expecting nothing but the blow of death, it pleas'd God to infpire the cacica, or ca- cique's lady, with companion ; and fo fhe went herfelf, and with her own hands un- . . tied theirs, commanding their wounds toy*/ pre/tr- be drefs'd, and treating them with fome on""»». their drinks, which fhe herfelf prefented to them, having drunk firft herfelf, according to their cuftom, and bid them take courage, for they fhould not die. They feeing them- felves brought, as it were, from death to life, threw themfelves at her feet, and de- dicated themfelves to her as voluntary fiaves, fince by her favour they enjoyed a life which they gave for loft. The captain, who had taken them, fee- ing his princefs and fovereign lhew them fo much favour, came to them, and bid them be confident of their lives, for that their lady having commanded they fhould not be killed, there was not any one bold enough to look awry upon them : they were kept fix months in this captivity ; and though it was fo gentle, by the kind ufage they met with, yet the natural defire of liberty, and the hopes of returning to their friends, ftill worked with them. Let no man think himfelf fecure that has his enemy within his own doors, nor let him truft his prifoner, though yielded up to his difcretion ; for let him be us'd as well as can be, yet there is no happinefs like be- ing his own man, and enjoying his liberty. This thought continually took up the minds of thefe two captains, fo they laid a plot how to make their efcape. They had obferv'd in the cacique a curiofity for horfes, which were a creature fo new in thofe Indian countries ; they perfuaded him to learn to ride, and manage a horfe. He Chap. 9. Kingdom of CHILE. 119 An un- horfe. He liked the propofal, and began to exercife himlelf in this genteel amufe- ment, carrying with him neverthekfs al- ways his guard of archers, with an Indian before with a lance upon his moulder, and another behind, with a naked fword in his hand, more out of grandeur than diftruft ; for he had no fufpicion of their plot, which was, to take an opportunity when he rid out to fall upon him, and kill him, as they "?"; did ; for captain Monroy, with an extraor- return. dinary intrepidity, without reflecting on the guard that attended him, attacked the Cacique, and captain Miranda the reft, with fo much fuddennefs, that they made them- felves matters of the lance and fword ; and beitirring themfelves courageoufly, they wounded and difmounted the Cacique ; fo that he died of his wounds in fome months. Having gained their horfes, they faved themfelves upon them ; and not being pur- fued in that diforder, they overcame all the difficulties of thofe folitudes, and arrived at Peru fafe •, where at that time they found the government in the hands of the Licen- ciado Vaca de Caflro. Thefe two captains were gentlemen of great families ; and to this day the Miran- das in Chile are of the flower of the nobility of that kingdom. As for the Monroys, they are fo known in Caftile, particularly about Salamanca, that it is needlefs to fay more of them. They were very well received by his excellency, for the good news they brought of that difcovery and conqueft, of thepleafantnefs of the country, and richnefs of its mines ; and upon this relation, as An- tonio de Herrera, and other authors fay, it was refolved to further this conqueft, which feemed to be of fuch high importance, and to chufe out fome fit perfon, and ac- company him with foldiers, arms, ammu- nition, and cloathing for the foldiers, who were almoft naked. He chofe for this emloyment captain Paflene John Baptifte Pajlene, a gentleman or the f^^a m °ft aii tient and illuftrious houfe of Pajle- e P r P nes ; n Q enoa ; which family is at prefent ex- tindl in that republick, and remains only in its records, where many of that name are in the books of the nobility, and among the greateft dignities of the ftate. This gentleman engaged in the conqueft of the new world by the fame defire of glory whichOvALLE. moved others, and to mend his fortune. He 1646. happening then to be in Peru, the vice-^^^^ roy took hold of the occafion to employ him for the king's fervice ; which this gentleman accepted, and performed, going for Chile, where he arrived with the fuc- cours which that kingdom flood in fo great need of. This relief was received with great joy, Hi' joyful as being in the beginning of the enterprize/'"**""'* and extreamly wanted, the foldiers being much fatigued and weakened with the con- tinual aflaults of their enemies, without any other defence than their fort of St. J ago, where they had enough to do to fhelter themfelves from their valour and fierce at- tacks ; but the arrival of thefe fuccours gave them new courage, and refolution to profe- cute their enterprize. To undertake it with more regularity, and prevent what accidents might happen from the fea, the governor fent Pajlene with the title of lieutenant-ge- neral in his own fhip, to difcover the coaft as far as the Str eights of 'Magellan, as he did ; and it appears by the letters of their ca- tholick majefties, Philip II. and his fon Philip III. how agreeable this piece of fer- vice was to them. About this time the mines of §>uillota being working with great profit, and Don Gone ales de los Rios being captain-governor of the work, the Indians brought him a full pot of great grains of n j a ' ds p *~ gold, for a fhew of a great deal which drawn mto they fa id they had found in a certain place. an *mkuf~ There they had laid an ambufcade of feve-^™£ ral of their beft men, to fall upon fuch a.s n efi. blinded with covetoufnefs fhould go to feek this treafure. This happened accord- ingly, for they all run prefently to the place ; for there is no alarm never fo warm, that rouzes better than this defire of grow- ing rich at once did them : but they were much miftaken •, for inftead of gold, they met with the iron of their enemies lances, who killed them all but their captain and a Negro, who efcaped by the fwiftnefs of their horfes : fo the Indians remained vic- torious, and by the way of triumph, fet fire to a frigate which the Spaniards had almoft finifhed to keep up their correfpon- dency with Peru. CHAP. X. The City of the Serena is peopled. John Baptifte Paftene goes for more Suc- cours to Peru, from whence he returns to Chile ; and with Valdivia and other captains _, goes to help the Royal Army again ft Pifarro. Valdivia furfnes his ctn^Heft. H ERRE RA fays, that with this re- lief which Valdivia received, he pur- fued his conqueft on the people called the Promocaes ; and that he was met by feveral Indians in the valley Quillocma, whom he overcame courageoufly, though with the lofs of fome horfes ; and at that time horfes were a thoufand crowns a-piece. Having difcovered i2o Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. OVALLE 1646. The city of La Sereno, orCoquim- bofounded in the year IJ4+. Abounds "» rich metals- • difcovered large provinces, and being fa- tisfied of the great number of inhabitants in them, he returned to St. Jago. 'Tis fuppos'd the governor did all this in hafte, fince he return'd without making any fort or fettlement : fo it is probable he went this time only to difcover, in order to form a force proportionable of an army: therefore the general John Baptifte Paftene being returned from difcovering of the fea- coalts, he fent him back to Peru to endea- vour to bring more fuccours, as he had done the firft, and fo form an army capa- ble of enlarging his conquefts upon fuch powerful enemies, as he found the natives of Chile to be. Judging therefore that it was not yet time to leave any thing be- hind him unfortified, he founded in the valley of Coquimbo the city generally call'd by that name, but by him call'd La Serena, to ferve lor a refting-place or fcala for the people who came from Peru to Chile ; for being in great want of fuch fupplies, he did endeavour to facilitate by all means their paflage, and draw as many people as pofli- ble to preferve his conqueft ; for acling otherwife would only be to have fo much the more to lofe ; as indeed it happened, and fhall be related in its due place. The city of La Serena was the fecond that was founded in Chile in the year 1544. in a very pleafant and fruitful valley, wa- tered by a very fine river, not of the big- geft, but of clear and admirable water, with which the fields are all fo plentifully refrefh'd, that their producl is fo various, that the inhabitants want almoft nothing from abroad that is necefTary for human life ; for they have corn, wine, flefh, all forts of other grain, and pulfe-fruits, even more than in St. Jago ; for befides all thofeof Europe, and thole of Chile, they have two forts very extraordinary : The firft is a fort of cucumbers, which are very fweet, and do not need paring, for the outfide is a very thin skin, fmooth, of a delicate colour between white and yellow, all itreaked with a very fine purple ; the other fruit is that which they call Lucu- mas, and is a fruit, as I remember, I have feen in Peru : it is a very wholefome well- tafted fruit, the ftone is fmooth, and of a purple colour. The oil of this place is ab- folutely the befl in the whole kingdom, as clear and bright as one's eyes, and of a rare fmell and tafte : they make great quantities, fbthat they fend a great deal abroad. They have great flocks of cattle, though not fo many as about St. J ago, becaufe it rains lefs, and fo the pafturages are leaner. But that which is mod particular, and of greateft value in this country, is the great abundance of rich metals, as gold, copper, and lead ; fo that though they have given over gathering of gold in all the other parts of Chile, becaufe other pro- duels are of greater advantage, yet in this place they go on gathering it more or lefs, according as the winter is more or lefs rai- ny ; for when it rains much, the mountains are diflblv'd, and the earth open'd, and fo the gold is eafier found. And the copper too that is melted down there, ferves for all the kingdom, and Peru befides. The climate of this city is abfolutely the mod temperate of all the kingdom ; becaufe the winter, which in other parts is very fharp, particu- larly nearer the pole, is here fo gentle, that it is hardly perceiv'd, it being within five or fix degrees of the tropick, and being in the 29th degree of latitude, enjoys a mode- rate climate, the longeft day being of four- teen hours, and is upon the nth of Decem- ber, as the fhorteft is on the 1 1 th of June, and the night is of fourteen hours. But the accidental fituation of the city The ad-vm- helps much towards the mildnefs of the c\\-tagiousJitu- mate : it is within two leagues of the fea * tion °f>'- having a plain before it all covered with myrtles : it (lands on a rifing ground, ha- ving a profpect to the fea, which makes a beautiful bay, abounding in fifh of all forts ; by which it is an excellent place to pafs the lent in, fifh being very cheap : but the good cheer is alfo as well out of Lent ; for be- fides the mutton, which is excellent , and very nourifhing, there is plenty of tame fowl, partridge, turkeys, and all forts of wild fowl. This city begun to be inhabited by many noble families, the foun- ders being men of the befl: quality that came to Chile; and their defcendants have remain'd, and do maintain the luflre of their anceftors. The governor-general ap- points the place of Csrrigcdor, or mayor of the city ; and it is one of the moft profitable places that are, becaufe of the mines which are wrought in its territory : but notwith- flanding all thefe good qualities which we have mention'd, this city does not increafe fo faft as that of St. Jago ; for this Lift may be compared to the clove-tree, which fucks to itfelf all the fubftance of the earth round about it, a thing which is proper enough to capital cities every where. About this time the general John Bap-PzRcne tijle Paftene arriv'd at Peru for a fecond er u, re- queft ; but he found the whole country in '««" "> confufion, caufed by the ftubborn difobedi- chiic - ence of Gonfalo Pifarro, fo that the govern- Pifarro ment wanted relief itfelf, inftead of beine rw »'"' in a condition to relieve others. This was fo true, that Paftene was forced to return to Chile, to bring a force from thence to join with the royal army. This refclution 'tis probable came to the knowledge of the ty- rant Chap. io» Kingdom of CHILE- 11 rant Pifarro ; for he found means to feize his fhip and his perfon by cunning. Paf- tene, though much prefs'd by Pifarro both by promifes and threats to join with him, as very well knowing how much he might a/iift him as his friend, or injure him as his enemy, yet perfever'd in his loyalty to the king, and found means to make his efcape out of the hands of the tyrant, and to reco- ver his fhip too; which having new fitted with neceffaries, he returned to Chile, to bring from thence fome of the beft officers to encourage the royal army, which was preparing to engage Pifarro, who on his fide had fuch a force, that he had put to death the viceroy Blafco Nunnes Vela. In Chile they were waiting for his return, and the fuccours he ihould bring with him ; but when they fiiw him without any, they were much troubled ; for they found themfelves oblig'd at leaft to fufpend all their projects upon Chile, to go and relieve thofe upon whom their own prefervation depended. Valdivia The governor Pedro de Valdivia, as foon marches to as he heard what pafs'd in Peru, refolv'd to Peru to af- g Q thither in perfon with fome of his beft officers and foldiers to join and help the king's forces. He left in Chile for his lieu- tenant captain Francifco de Villagra, a gen- tleman of great courage and good parts, that he might govern and preferve what we had already in that kingdom, it being im- poffible to do more, or make any further progrefs, till the times fhould alter, and he provide more forces. He got together what gold he could, and went aboard with his captains and foldiers in the fame fhip, un- king's forces. der the conduct of the fame general P aft em. Ovalle. His arrival at Peru gave great courage to ^]^ 6 - the king's forces, by reafon of the gold and ^"" >/ ^ men which he brought, the valour and ex- perience of which was fo great, that in the battle they perform'd extraordinary things, being the chief caufe of the victory obtain'd over Pifarro in the valley of £*uiragu a na. He himfelf was taken, and chaftis'd with his guilty affiftants as his folly deferved, and his difloyalty to his prince. The prefi T dent of Peru, Gafca, always advis'd with the governor Valdivia in all his moll impor- tant affairs, whom he made of his council with fix more, for the fecreteft affairs and of moft importance, making great efteern of his prudence and experience, as well as of the valour of his companions. This victory being obtain'd, the and of the new Succours he received. PEdro Sanches de Hoz was a foldier, to whom the king was pleas'd to grant a patent for the difcovery and conqueft of cer- tain lands, to begin from the juriidiction of the marquis Francis Pifarro ; and he preten- ding that part of the kingdom of Chile was in his grant, oppos'd the governor Valdivia, to whom Pifarro by a royal commiffion had given the conqueft and government of Chile ; but the marquis perfuaded him to defift, and go along with Valdivia to Chile, recommending his perfon to the governor, to ufe him with regard, and give him a fhare in the beft part of his conqueft. Val- divia did fo, bellowing on him the richeft lands of the Indians ; but the ambition of commanding is always very contentious, and fubject to complain till it gets the upper hand. This appear'd in Pedro Sanches de Hoz, in the abfence of the governor from Chile ; for being vex'd that he was not left with the authority of lieutenant in his room, Vol. III. he plotted to take away the life of him who had it, which was Francifco de Villagra, who having notice of his defigns, feiz'd upon Pe- dro Sanches de Hoz, and cut off his head, by which he affur'd his own ; and Valdivia ap- proved of the thing as well done, when he was inform'd of it ; becaufe he was a friend to juftice, and becaufe a competitor is never forry to have his competitor remov'd. About this time, the Indians of Copiapo, The Copia- who had begun to imbrue their hands in po Indians the blood of the Spaniards, in purfuance™™"^/-* of the revenge of their prince's death, whom £>cf- the captains Miranda and Monroy had kil- cique. led, as we have related in the ninth chapter, lay in wait, and furpriz'd Juan Bon with forty foldiers more of fome companies which were coming from Peru, and marching through their country ; thefe they put all to death. After their example the Coquimbefes at- tack'd the foldiers and inhabitants of thecity of La Senna, whom they kill'd without fpa- I i ring 122 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. OvALLE. r j n g on e, and fet fire to the city, which *^ 6 - t hey ruin'd utterly, not leaving one ilone ^^v^ upon another. Are over- j±\\ tft i s being underftood by the gover- "*uam nor at n ' s ret u rn from Peru, he fent captain Francis Francis de Aguirre with a good force, to deAguirre.f ]] 0W t h em to t heir retiring-place, where in feveral rencounters, in the valley of Co- papo, he overcame the Indians : all which was as much owing to his great valour as conduct, without which the force he had would have prov'd infufficient, (as Herrera obfervesj He did the fame in the valley of Coquimbo, and rebuilt the city of La Serena, in the place and fituation where it now ftands. For which reafon he was look'd upon as the true founder of it ; and his defcendants, who are of the bell nobility of the kingdom, have preferv'd that pre- rogative, and are the chiefeft in that go- vernment, or rather the mafters of it ; for they are lb numerous and fo powerful, that they yield to none in reputation, and are accordingly refpedled by all. Let us now treat of that which 'tis not reafonable to forget ; which is, of thofe captains, who in thofe early times entered Chile with fuccours of men to help to con- quer it, fince it is juft their memory fhould live for ever in thofe who enjoy the fruits of their labours, and are now mailers of what they gain'd with their blood and fweat, and the lofs of many lives, and dan- ger of their own, which they expos'd in fo many battles and encounters they had with the enemy. I am only forry, that I cannot fpeak of them all, and defcribe in particu- lar their good qualities and great merits, becaufe I am in a place where I want me- moirs and informations for fuch a work ; but I will fay what I can of their noble ac- tions, as I find them recorded in other hif- tories ; though to fay truth, that which they fay about Chile is fo little, that it is almoil next to nothing. I am not furpriz'd at it, for it is a place much out of the way, r.nd its conquerors were bufier with their fwords than with their pens ; for their ene- mies prefs'd them continually with fo much vigour, that they had but little of that lei- fure which hiflories and relations require. A ree '" al We fhall begin with the governor Pedro de tattams Valdivia, who was the firll that entered the who were kingdom with a force, as has been related ; injhumen- t hen that which general Pajlene brought af- * c a „ '"Afterwards with arms and cloaths. The fuc- Chile. cours brought by captain Monroy prov'd of great importance ; as Herrera fays, it was of threefcore men, which in thofe days was as much as fix hundred now : thefe he had hir'd in Peru, being much afiifted by the viceroy, who, upon the relations of Monroy and Miranda, was refolv'd to en- courage the enterprize. I am not certain, whether it was before this, or after, that arriv'd the fuccours fo opportunely brought by captain Chriftoval de Efcobar Villaroel -, for I do not find it mention'd in any of the hiftorians, which I have read here ; but in Chile the memory of it is very frefh, and will never be for- got ; not only for his coming in a time when they extremely wanted fupplies, but alfo for that circumftance of this noble cap- tain's having brought thefe fuccours upon his own charges, (and I think they were fe- venty men,,) and made his way by land to Chile, either by the wildernefs of Aracama, or by the Cordillera, either of which mult cod a great fum of money, for it is above five hundred leagues. This adlion alone was fufficient to fhe,w die noblenefs of this gentleman, if that of his family had not been fo well known as it is in Spain ; but he continued to give proofs of his zeal for die king's fervice, by ferving in perfon, and employing alio his fon captain Alonfo de Efcobar Villaroel, whom he had brought with him from Spain that they might both give arr example to their pofterity, as they have; not yielding to any, but have produc'd many noble per- fons, both in arms and other civil employ- ments of the government. When I reflect upon thofe I have known of the defcendants of this famous head and conqueror, I find, that between fons, grandfons, and great grandfons, they come up to eighty feven ; and if they had not been fo many, there was enough to honour this family in the feven or eight fons of the general Luis de las Cucuas, grandfons of this gentleman, with whom he prefented himfelf to the royal army, all arm'd cap- a-pee, in which they ferv'd many years at their own charges ; for in thofe days the inhabitants that were gentlemen, had no other reward but their loyalty, and the glory of ferving their prince. Antonio de Herrera makes mention of another fupply, of one hundred and eighty men, conducted by captain Francifco Villagra, who was af- terwards governor of Chile, and to whom that kingdom owes a great deal of its be- ing, for the hazards he ran, and the noble actions he perform'd in its conqueil, as we fhall fee hereafter, and may be re id in the general hiilory, to which I appeal. The nobility of his family was always notorious, and the gentlemen of his name have lliewed themfelves worthy of it, in the great fer- vices they have and do perform every day for the king, worthy of all forts of acknow- ledgment and reward. After this, in the time of the viceroy Dor. Antonio Hurtado de Mendofa, his excellen- cy, as Herrera fays, fent captain Don Mar- tin de Avzndano by land, with good fuc- cours Chap, ill Kingdom of C H I L E. 123 cours of men, and three hundred and fifty mares and horfes, which were of as much importance for the war as fo many men. The defendants of this gentleman are ftill carrying on the luftre of his family, fo known in Salamanca and other parts. I was acquainted with two brothers of that name, who alone might preferve and in- creafe the reputation of their family ; the one was colonel Don Antonio de Avendano, who was colonel of the regiment ofArauco, who fignaliz'd himfelf at the head of that regiment in many rencounters with the ene- my, and particularly in one, where our camp was defeated, and where to preferve the reputation he had gain'd in fo many noble actions and eminent dangers, he chofe to die, being wounded in a great many places, and almoft cut in pieces by the fu- rious enemy. The other was Don Francifco de Avendano, likewife colonel, and who came to Spain ; where his majefty, in confi- deration of his own and his anceftors merit, honour'd him with the habit of St. J ago, and the government of Tucuman, where he died. I do not mention thofe companies out of which, as they pafifed by Copiapo, forty were killed, with their leader Juan Bon ; becaufe Herrera, who fpeaks of this, does not fay who was the captain of them. Per- haps there were alfo other commanders,who in thofe fix years time entered into Chile with men ; and I fhould -be glad to be where I might have particular information of them, to do them at leaft that fmall honour of putting their names in print, and giving Ovalle. fome glory to actions which, perhaps, de- .*^", ferv'd to be grav'd in brafs. ^^^T^. I do not likewife fet down here, that fa- mous fupply of men brought by the fecond governor of Chile, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendofa, marquis of Cannete, for this fhall be fpoke of in its proper place, after the death of the governor Pedro de Valdivia ; and thus we fhall conclude thofe who en- tered by the way of Peru. For though, fince that time, there have been feveral fup- plies, and are every day ftill more, yet they have not been remarkable enough, as not having come at firft, but after the fettle- ments were made ; and befides, it would carry me too far to report them all. But I fhall add here thofe which have come from Spain by the way of Buenos Ayres, as well becaufe they were the moft numerous, fome having been of five hundred or a thou- fand men, as having come in dangerous times, when the kingdom was ready to be loft, the enemy having, as it were, befieg'd it •, and fo 'tis juft to preferve the memory of fuch famous benefactors, who have been, as it were, fathers of their country. This we fhall perform at the end of this book, in a treatife by itfelf, where we will like- wife put the pictures of all the governors of Chile, as well as may be, confidering how long they have been dead, that their defendants may preferve the memory of men who feem to deferve eternity by their heroical actions. CHAP. XII. The Governor Pedro de Valdivia purfues his Conqueji, and peoples the City calVd the Conception, where he had like to have been dejiroyed in a Battle. Valdivia T H E governor Pedro de Valdivia fee- fur/nes his j_ ing himfelf with a good force, and cwquefl. tne g reat:ne f s f his mind perfuading him that he had wherewithal to put an end to his enterprize, Herrera fays he fent to the other fide of the Cordillera, from St. J ago, captain Francifco Aguirre with a good num- ber of men, with which he pafs'd thofe terrible mountains, and founded among the Diaguitas and Juries. Herrera fays no more ; nor do I know any thing of thofe individual places and ci- ties which he founded. The governor Val- divia on his fide fet out of St. 'J ago with a powerful army, and palling the furious ri- vers ofMaypo, Cachapoal, Tinguiritica, Pe- teroa, "Teno, and Mataquito, he conquer'd the Promocaei, a warlike people, who had refifted Almag?-o, and before that had re- puls'd an army of fifty thouiand men,which the Inga fent againft them when he endea- vour'd to conquer Chile ; but the good for- tune and great valour of Valdivia and his men overcame that which feem'd invinci- ble, though I am perfuaded that it was not without blood : but I refer myfelf to the general hiftory of Chile, which has de- fcrib'd the particular encounters and bat- tles on both fides. The army pafs'd the deep river ofMaule, and the wide Itata, and coming to that of Audalien, quarter'd by the fea-fide; and for the conveniency of fituation, he found- ed there the city of the Conception in the year 1550. But the natives aftoniih'd and The city *f enrag'd at this boldnefs of ftrangers to en-' ie Con- ter thus into the heart of their country, as£ ept ^ ( . if it were their own, call'd a general aflem-v^ y ear bly, and with a numerous and brave army 157°. prefented them battle fo furioufly, that our people began to wifh they had not engag'd themfelves fo far. Much blood was ihed on 124 Of the Nature and Properties of the Eook V. Ovalle. on both fides ; and our army was in great 1646. danger of being deftroyed, till it pleas'd V^Y^' G d, (who guides all things to his ends,) who was to reap the fruit of his victory over thofe gentiles, whom he had predefti- nated by the means of the gofpel, which was to be preach'd to them in cafe the Spaniards were victorious* to make them fo at lad, and that very glorioufly, the fa- mous Aynabillo, chief head of the Pencones, remaining prifoner, after having behav'd himfelf with great bravery in the fight. The Jitm- The fituation of the city of the Concep- tion of it. tion is oh a plain where the fea makes a mofh beautiful bay, in form of a half-moon ; and nature has provided a mole, by put- ting there a large ifland, behind which fhips ride fafe from the north wind. By land, towards the eaft, it is encompafled with fome high hills, the fides of which are all planted with vines and other fruit-trees ; fo that which way foever one looks, the pro- fpect terminates in beautiful plantations of trees, or rather a green femicircle, which rejoices the fight, and fortifies the city. From the north, there comes into it a fmall river, which comes down from the mountains, which we have already defcrib'd in the chapter of the rivers of Chile. On the fouth fide, another larger deeper river runs by it, and is call'd Audalien. Neither of thefe rivers do the kindnefs to the city which Mapocho does to St. J ago, that is, to come into the houfes ; but the want of this is fupplied by excellent fountains of chrif- talline and delicate water, which rife very near the city, and are brought into it very plentifully, and which was carried to the publick place by the general Don Diego Gonzales Montero, he being corrige- «dor of this city, and governing it with the fame prudence and generofity, that he fince govern'd that of St. J ago, in the fame qua- lity of corrigedor and lieutenant-general. Its latitude. This city is in the latitude of thirty three degrees and five and forty minutes to the antartick pole; and for this reafon, and becaufe of the high land it ftands upon, the air is fo temperate, that the heats never are troublefome, nay, in the heat of rum- mer 'tis necelTary to have as many bed- cloaths as in winter, which is not at all fe- vere, becaufe it never ihows there, though it rains extreamly. For the fecurity of the city, there was erected a good fort for our people to retire to when prefs'd by the Indians, which often happened, and made them ftand to their arms almoft continually ; for they, impatient of any yoke, were in- cefiantly taken up with the thoughts and endeavours of driving them out of the coun- try ; and notwithftanding all the care that was taken, the city was loft at laft, for the enemy over-powered us : but yet in length of time it was built again, as we fhall fee ; though ftill remaining a frontier to the ene- my, it has not had fuch increafe as St.Jago. But it gains ground, and has many rich in- habitants, who have enter'd upon a great vent of fait, flefh, and hides, which is one of the richeft commodities of Chile; and they have, befides, magazines of flower, with which they furnifh the army : the wines too of thofe parts, are generally better than thofe of St.Jago, though they are lower ceps or vines ; nay, the grapes ripen as they lie along on the ground, as it is in many parts in Europe: they have not that abundance of almonds, oil, oranges and lemons, pulle, and dried fruit, as in other parts of Chile, their fummer being fhorter, and the fun having lefs force. The Spanijh children born here are of acharAffer very fweet nature, and docile ; of good wits, '/ '" s *" and take to learning very well. The men" 1 "' are loyal, faithful keepers of their word, friendly, and fuch as for their friends will venture any thing to defend them in their honour or fortunes, even with the hazard of their own, and their lives too : they are very well difpos'd to virtue, having good inclinations ; and thofe among them, who have taken to arms, have extremely figna- liz'd themfelves. They are bred in great fim- plicity, as being far from the corruption of the court, which generally improves the malice, and raifes the libertinifm of young people. The bilhoprick of this city is a poor one, not being worth above two or three thoufand pieces of eight a year, be- caufe, though the land is rich of itfelf, and that in which there are moft mines, yet the Decimes or tenths are very fmall, becaufe of thofe continual wars which this city has. maintain'd from its beginning; for we may fay, it has been nurs'd with blood, and grown up in arms, not having laid them down in ninety five years, which is no fmall evidence of the good qualities of its inhabitants, and what it may be hence- forward, when this dead weight is taken off. Another caufe of the fmall revenue of this bilhoprick, is the lofs of {even cities, fome of them the richeft of the kingdom, which all belong'd to its diocefe. In the year 1567. there was fettled a high i;6j'. court of chancery, which remain'd till the year 1574. and afterwards it was remov'd to St. J ago, where it now is : and though its jurifdiftion reaches as far as this city, there is little for it to do, becaufe the go- vernors are generally prefent, to be nearer the garrifons, and countenance and aflift the war, of which there is a continual neceffity. The garrifon is very numerous, and of choice foldiers, where every day they mount the guard, as it is practis'd in places of war. The general provides all the officers, even Chap. '3- Kingdom of CHILE. r2 5 even to the colonels ; but his majefty names go through the treafurer and mufter-mafter-general, fand ducats who is the fecond perfon after the gover- every year nor : this is a poft of great efteem, and no officers and fmall value in this kingdom ; and there books. CHAR XIII. The Governor Pedro de Valdivia profecutes his Cities of Imperial, Valdivia, and Villa Rica, Arauco. his hands three hundred thou- Ovalle. of the king's money, which ^^' is to be diftributed among the S ^V^^ foldiers, who are enroll'd in his Here are three chap- ters, which follow, aU of miracles, wrought by Conqueft, and founds the™™"j eo f and raifes three Forts in "which ale emitted. TH E governor Valdivia having fpent the year 1550. in peopling the city of the Conception, and defending himfelf in his fort againfl the continual attacks of the enemy, and having at the fame time in- form'd himfelf more exactly of the country, and its fertility, by the means of captain Hyeronimo de Alderete, who had gone through it, and obferv'd the number of its inhabitants, refolv'd to go out of the Con- ception, and purfue his conqueft. In order to this, after having well provided his fort, and left a garrifon in it, he fet out in the tSfil beginning of the year 1 55 1 . He took his way with his army by the plains of Angol, crofling firft the great ri- ver Biobio, and coming to that of Cauten, which for its gentlenefs is call'd the Ladies River, when join'd with another very plea- fant one near the fea : here he found great fettlements of Indians, and founded the Thefotm- c ity of Imperial. This is one of the raoft iation of agreeable fituations of the whole kingdom, the city of being about three or four leagues from the cmFiufi- *" ea ' an d thirty nine leagues from the Con- ization, ception, and a hundred and nine from the city of St. Jago, in thirty nine degrees of fouth latitude. All the territory of this ci- ty is very fruitful, bearing corn, and all forts of pulfe and fruits, though the black grapes do not ripen fo kindly as the white ones and the mufcadines : the country is not all plains and valleys, nor all hills, but ra- ther a compofition of the whole ; the hills are gentle and tradable, with good pafture and fhelter for cattle ; the ground does not want much watering, it having frequent and large dews that fertilize it. The city was fituated upon a pretty ftiff hill, and the confluence of two navigable rivers ; but the port is not good, for the flats there are within three fathom and a half of depth. Here the governor met with fourfcore thou- fand Indians fettled, nay, fome authors fay, they were many more ; and all agree that they were a quiet and good-natur'd people, not at all fo warlike as the Araucanos. This city was the head of the biflioprick, and it began to increafe at firft very much, by reafon of the excellency of its foil and fituation ; and if it had not been deftroyed; Vol. III. as we fhall lee hereafter that it was, it would by this time have been a great city ; for it was already very well peopled, and muft have increas'd, if the gold mines which are in its neighbourhood had been wrought. This city, which was the fourth of this kingdom, being thus founded, the gover- nor divided the territory, and gave the lord- ihips to his conquerors, according to the royal privilege he had fo to do, that he might engage the Spaniards to enter more heartily into his enterprize. He took for himfelf the lordfhips of Arauco and Tucapel, as far as Puren, except fome manors that he gave to others, to content all. Having left a force, which feem'd fufficient in the city of Imperial, he marched as far as Val- divia. Being come to that famous river, and defiring to pafs it, to conquer the land and people on the other fide, the brave In- dian lady, call'd Recloma, hinder'd him, offering to pafs the river alone fwimming, and to reduce the Indians to his obedience, as fhe did, and as we have already related in the ninth chapter of the firft book ; and there likewife is a full defcription of the fituation of the city, and all its other qua- lities, which it was proper to make in that place, and fo is not necefiary to repeat here. The governor having founded the city of The city if Valdivia, erected a fort, and fettled all things Valdivj 'a as he had done at the Imperial. While he^'* ftay'd there to purfue his fettlement, he fent ere aed captain Hyeronimo de Alder ete to difcover the country as far as the Cordillera Nevada ; and he having fent to the governor relations of his difcoveries, as he wen t founded a town, which he call'd, by the excellency, rhefiun- Villa Rica, the appearances of the riches of dation and that country being greater than any yet had^""™ °f been difcover'd. Though the fituation he chafe feemed at firft to be the bell, yet in time it was re- folv'd to change it, and place it upon a great lake, at the bottom of the Cordillera, and about fixteen leagues from the Imperial, and forty from the Conception. It has not fuch a plenty of corn and wine as the others, but it has enough, and many other good quali- ties, which I omit, becaufe it being fince deftroyed with other cities, already men- K k tion'd, Villa Rica. 126 Of the NdWe and Properties of the Boox Y* OvALLE.tion'd, I am likewife forced to be filent of i^tsL/ tne * r P art i cu l ar properties, and refer my ^V^ f c ]f to the general hiftory of Chile, which will embrace all thofe particulars. Thefe were the cities planted and peo- pled by the governor Valdivia ; and though I have not, as to thefe laft, made mention of the blood fpilt in gaining them, 'tis not to be imagined but that they coft dear enough, fince the conteft was with fuch warlike nations, that it feem'd a great rafh- nefs (and would have been fo without a par- ticular protection of heaven) to undertake fuch enterprizes. There are not wanting thofe who blame the governor Valdivia, judging that he did not meafure well his ftrength, but grafped more than he could hold, as he found by a fad experience at his own peril in a little time. The authors who fpeak of thefe at- tempts are full of the commendation of the valour, patience, and fufferings ot the Caf- tilians ; but all this would not have done, nor have fubjected thofe people, nor twice that force could have prevail'd againft them, if becaufe they faw them on horfeback, and killing people at a diftance, they had not believed them to be Epunamones, by which name they called the gods they ador'd ; fo they imagined them to be immortal, and that they came from above with a power to fend out thunderbolts like God : for ha- ving never feen either fmall arms, or great artillery, they thought the noife was thun- der ; and to this day that fort of arms is call'd ^ Spaniards in thefe contefls ; and then per- ceiving that thefe things were diffembled, and that their boldneis had its defired ef- fect, they grew every day more infolent: and at laft being thoroughly fatisfy'd that the Spaniards were neither gods, nor immor- tal, nor of any other fpecies than they, but fubject to all human infirmities, they began to fear them no longer, but refolved to fall upon them. CHAP. XIV. The City of Angol is peopled^ and the Indians rife againft the Spaniards. rhe city of 1 I FON occafion of the mines that were Angol founded. U 1 begun to be wrought in the diftrict of Angol, the governor Pedro de Valdivia fet- tled a city of that name there, which was alfo call'd the city of the confines. Some attribute this foundation to the marquis of Cannete, Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendofa, who governed after the death of Pedro de Valdivia : perhaps the reafon of this is, that the fituation of this city at firft was three leagues from the place where it now Hands ; fo it might be that Valdivia firft fettled it, and the marquis removed it to the place it is now in, and that was ground enough to make him the founder. The prefent fituation is in a plain, very */«j«» *Jf- ' ar S e anc * difengaged, eight leagues from fcription. the Cordillera, and twenty from the Concep- tion ; fome fay fixteen, which perhaps is caus'd by the difference of its two fituations. Their longeft day and night are of fourteen hours and half. The land is very fertile •, fruits ripen very well: there is good wine, and good ftore of raifins dried in the fun, figs, and other dried fruits ; a vaft quantity of tall cypreffes, which yield a very fweet- fcented wood, of which, Herrera fays, there is made a gum-lac. The great river Biobio runs by it, and ferves it for a wall and ditch on the fouth fide ; and on the north fide another pleafant rivulet comes running from hills of a moderate heigh th, and turns character many mills for the ufe of the city. Thofe of the nu- ^hom I have known that have been born in this city, have prov'd very gentle in their difpofitions, of good wits, and noble inclinations, very friendly and real, and extremely loyal to the king, as indeed all the Chilenians are, looking on that as the higheft punilo of dieir gentility. Now let us return to the Araucanos, who were bufy in calling together their afiem- blies there, to treat how to caft off the yoke of fervitude , and make themfelves mailers of that which was truly theirs. So it was, that the Caciques being poflefs'd with an opinion that their forces were not infe- rior to the Spaniards, began to call them together : and they needed no incitements of pay or money •, for the love of their li- berty, and poffeffions, and pofterity, was a fufficient fpur to them, thinking every day a year that kept them from engaging with their enemies, and conquering them. The Caciques that met were thefe: firft, Thee a- Tucapel, a great butcher of chriftians, with"^""/ - three thoufand foldiers; Angol, who was ™ UC ° B "* very brave, with four thoufand ; Cayocupil ra jp, a with three thoufand men, whom he brought numerous from the Cordillera, as hardy as the rocks arm ^ they came from, and made to endure any labour; Mxllarapue, an old man, of great wifdom, brought five thoufand ; Paicavi with three thoufand ; Lemoleno with fix thoufand; Mareguano, Gualemo, and Leu- copie, each with three thoufand ; the robuft Elicuera, held for one of the ftrongeft men, with fix thoufand, and they ancient ; and chief of all, Colocolo, with as many more. Ongolmo offer'd four thoufand ; and Puren fix thoufand ; Lincoyce, who was of the fta- ture of a giant, offered to bring more than any ; Peteguelen, lord of the valley of Arau- co, from whence the whole took their name, came with fix thoufand ; and the famous Caupolican, and his two neighbours Thome and Audalican, and many others, kept them- felves ready to come in with their fubjefts. They met, according to their cuftom, to eat and drink at the appointed rendezvous^ for that never is omitted in thefe afiemblies ; and having been unanimous in the firft and chief point, which was to rife, there was fome difference about the choice of a gene- ral, every one defiring to have that com- mand, as it generally happens in fuch elec- tions : every one alledg'd their particular me- rits ; the one his valour, another his experi- ence, another his good fortune, and none fcemed to want a pretence for obtaining their defire. They grew warm in this ambitious conteft, and would have come to blows, if the old 1 28 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. Ovalle. old and wife Colocolo, by his prudence and au- 1646. thority, had not quieted them, and reduc'd ^V^ them to confent to choofe Caupolican, not on- ly as the braveft foldier, but the ableft chief. This done, they all fwore obedience to him, and promis'd to obey his orders, for the better carrying on of their common defign. The Spaniards had, as we have already mentioned, three caftles for their fecurity, and one of them was near the poll where this afiembly was kept ; and the Indians, proud and impatient, had a mind to attack it immediately ; but Caupolican, their ge- neral, forbid it, in order to do it with more dexterity and fafety. He commanded P al- ia, who perform'd the place of ferjeant- general, to chufe him out fourfcore foldiers of the braveft, and fuch as were leaft known to the Spaniards, and the Indians their friends : thefe he put under the conduct of two very brave men, Cayaguano zrAAlca- tipay, and order'd them to enter the caftle with their arms by this ftratagem. The jin Indian Araucanos, though in peace, were not per- fimiagem. mitted to enter the caftle, except fuch as ferv'd the Spaniards ; and thefe enter'd often with their loads of grafs, wood, and other necefTaries for the garrifon. Caupolican or- der'd thefe fourfcore men to feign themfelves to be fervants of the Spaniards, and having hid their arms in the grafs they carried, to anfwer nothing, but pretend they did not hear if they were ask'd any queftions : they acted their parts to the life, fome counter- feiting lamenefs, others wearinefs, fo that they were all let in without fufpicion : then they took their arms out of the grafs, and fell unanimoufly upon the Spaniards, who were much aftonifh'd at fo unforefeen a boldnefs: however, they gave the alarm, and all coming out of their quarters, re- filled them, fo as to kill fome of the In- dians ; the others, either out of fear of the Spaniards, or on purpofe to draw them out of the caftle in their purfuit, retir'd, on purpofe to gain time till their general Cau- polican could come up with his army ; which he did with a very numerous one, and for- ced the Spaniards to retire to their fort. He befieg'd them in it, and after having kill'd many of them, thofe who remain'd alive were glad to leave the poft, and get away, judging it better to retire to Pur en, left they fhould lofe all ; whereas being join'd with the garrifon of Puren, they might better refift the enemy, though he was very power- ful, and much elevated. The news of this invafion foon reach'd the Conception, and the governor Pedro de Valdivia, who was then tliere, began pre- fently to confider how to remedy fo great a mifchief. Some blame him as tardy in doing of it; for to ficure the treafure of the mines, where (as Herrera fays) he had fifty thoufand vaffals at work to get gold for him. Before he went to fuccour thofe in Puren, he went out of his way, and ftay'd the erecti g of a fort at the mines, which took him lb much time, that he came later than was requifite to their re- lief. But, indeed, if any thing was ill done Valdivia by him, it was the making too much hafte ; m * reh " for without ftaying for the relief and fuc-^^2! cours he might have receiv'd from the other cities, he fet out with a force not ftrong enough to encounter that of Caupolican: his courage deceiv'd him ; for being eleva- ted with his fuccefTes, and trufting to his fortune, he run into the precipice, as we fhall fhew in the following chapter. CHAP. XV. The Governor Pedro de Valdivia, and all his Teopkj are kill'd by the Indians. The famous Action of Lautaro is related [, that being the chief Caufe of this Event. TH E time of this great captain's death was now come ; all things therefore feem'd to concur to that end. The prefent remedy that was to be applied to this mif- chief, to flop its progrefs, and the delay of thofe fuccours he expected from the other garrifons, were all combining caufes; his heart mifgave him at his fetting out from Tucapel. He had fent out parties to bring him an account of the ftate of the enemy, but none came back : this gave him fome apprehenfion, but being engag'd, it was necefiary to go on. He had fent out fcouts, as I faid, and had fcarce gone two leagues on his way after them, but he faw the heads of two of them hanging upon a tree : this increas'd his fear, and he confuted with thofe with him, whether it would not be ralh to proceed. The young men were of opinion, that it would be a lefiening of their reputation to turn their backs to danger, though there came to them an Indian of their friends, and defir'd them not to pro- ceed, becaufe Caupolican was at Tucapel with twenty thoufand Indians, and that the ha- zard they ran was manifeft ; but he followed on his way, and came within fight of the enemy : they foon engag'd, and the battle Be engage was cruel on both fides, fo that for a great tiiim% while no advantage could be perceiv'd, be- caufe the brave actions on both fides kept victory in fufpence. After a good while of this contention, the Spaniards began to prevail, and to cry Viva Chap, i $. Kingdom of CHILE. 129 The tren- cbsry of Lautaro. His ha- rangue to the Arau- cauos. Valdivia taken frifo Viva Efpanna, or Live Spain ; with which recovering new vigour, the Indians feem'd to give wav, when (as Arzilla, in his Arau- cana, fays) the famous Lautaro, an Indian, who had been bred page to the governor Valdivia, having more regard to the love of his native country and his liberty, than for the education he had receiv'd, and the fidelity he owed his mailer, went over to the Indians, and fpoke to them in this man- ner : " What is this, brave Aran canos ? do " you turn your backs when your liberty " is concern'd, your country, your chil- " dren, your pofterity ? Either recover your " liberty, or loie your lives ; for 'tis a lefs " misfortune to die, than to live Haves. " Do you intend to ftain the glory of your " anceflors, acquir'd for fo many ages paft, " in one hour? Remember you are de- " fcended from thofe who gain'd that re- " nown by refilling their enemies, and not " flying from them ; and fuch as fear'd not " to lofe both lives and fortunes to preferve " their fame : drive away all fear, gene- " rous foldiers, and either live free, or die." With thefe words he fo inflam'd the minds of his friends, that defpifing death, they return'd with fury to invade thofe whom before they flew from. Lautaro, to encou- rage them the more, led them on, ihaking his lance againft the governor, his mailer ; who, furpriz'd at his action, cried, Traytor what doji thou do ? To which he anfwer'd only with a thruft or two, animating his people to do the fame. This renewed the fight, and they all refolv'd, by the exam- ple and exhortations of Lautaro, to conquer, or die ; which they perform'd with fo much fury, that the concern of both fides was now at the highefl, and the contention only who ihould venture farthefl into danger. Many Spaniards and Indians fell on both fides, and Lautaro Hill encourag'd his countrymen without any relenting. Valdivia did the fame by the Spaniards, and ihewed himfelf every where, in the greateft danger, with- out the leafl apprehenfion, though he faw many of the braved of his men fall by the fword. One would have thought the In- dians had but jufl begun to engage, to fee how like lions they fell on, and begun to find victory incline to their fide, till at laft there fell fo many Spaniards, that Valdivia was almofl left alone. In this extremity he went afide with his chaplain to confefs his fins, that being the principal thing he had now to do. The Indians gave him but lit- tle time to make his peace with heaven ; for a great troop of them fell upon him with darts and lances, killing the chaplain, and taking him priibner, they brought him Vol. III. alive to their general, for the laft triumph Ovalle. of their victory. vl^f 6 ' This hitherto unconquer'd captain ap- ^^V^*^ pear'd in the prefence of the great Caupoli- can, his hands tied behind him as captive, his face all bloody, though venerable. He ask'd his life as a favour ; he who a little before had it in his power to grant it his ene- mies. He turn'd his eyes towards his Lau- taro, and with their language feem'd to de- fire him to intercede for him who had been his lord and mafler, and by whofe means he was in this extremity. He promis'd Cau- polican, if he might have his life, to with- draw all his forces, and leave the country free from their incumbrance. He made oath of this feveral times, and perfuaded with fo much eloquence his hearers, that Caupolican, who was as generous as brave, began to relent, and incline to companion. But the greateft part faid it was madnefs to truft to any words or promifes of a captive, who is forced to humble himfelf; but that when he ihould be free, he would do that which fhould be moft for his advantage. However, the difpute between them in- creas'd, and no doubt but Lautaro would have inclin'd to mercy ; for if he fought againft his mafler, it was not out of any ha- tred to his perfon, but out of the great kindnefs he had to his country, which,with the defire of liberty, prevail'd over the gra- titude he owed for the good ufage he had re- ceiv'd at his hands; but nothing of this was able to appeafe the vulgar, though Caupo- lican inclin'd to clemency •, fo they fore'd him to pronounce his death, and to execute it immediately in hot blood, though they He is /lain differ'd in the manner of it; for fome fay^'^ In " that they poured melted gold into his mouth, bidding him once for all content his thirft after that metal which he had fo infatiably coveted : others fay, that one of thofe Caciques, bearing impatiently that it fhould bear a queftion whether he fhould live or die, gave him a blow on the head with a club ; which Caupolican refented high- ly, as a want of refpedl to him. That which I find moft probable is, that according to^hey make the cuftom of the Indians, they made flutes-^"" Md and trumpets of the bones of his legs and fhiHones. thighs, and kept his head as a teflimony of fo remarkable a victory, and to animate their youth to undertake the like actions, as they might fee by this their fathers had done. Thus I have heard it related. Of all the Spanijh army, 'tis faid there of all the efcaped only two Indian friends, who ta- s P am ^ king advantage of the obfeurity of the night, l^eUpei hid themfelves in a thicket, from whence creeping out as well as they could, they L 1 came 130 Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V; OvALLE.came to the Conception, and brought the of their husbands and fens, others that of 1646. n ews of this fatal event. The city was im- their fathers and relations, and all together V'V^ mediately full of confufion and complaints, the common calamity of their city, in which the women crying and bewailing the lofs they were all equally concern'd. CHAP. XVI. What happened after the 'Death of the Governor Pedro de Valdivia. THE enemy having obtain'd fo re- markable a victory, their general Cau- polican commanded the retreat to be found- ed, and call'd a council, to confider whe- ther, or no, it would be bell to follow their blow warmly. Many were of opinion it Would be moft expedient to fall upon the cities immediately, before they could pre- pare lor them ; yet Caupolkan, after having heard them all, refolv'd to do otherwife. "Tis better, faid he, to expect our enemies in our own homes, than to go to feek them at theirs, where all men fight with more valour ; let them come to feek us in our mountains and bogs, where we are fure of a fafe retreat: let us give our enemies a free accefs to us, who have our fituation to befriend us; and in the mean time our hor- fes and foldiers may refrelh themfelves: and if they out of fear (which I believe they will not) do forbear to feek us out, we may attack them when we will. Having fpoke thus, he took Lautaro by the hand, arid having publickly commended him, by at- tributing to him the victory and die liber- ty of his country, he, by conlent of all, Caupolican made him his lieutenant-general, and gave watoLau-him leave to chufe out the men he would fautenant- nave t0 ^ erve un ^ eT hi m > to g° anc * pitch general, upon a fit poft to expect the Spaniards in. Ms chaw Lautaro was no very tall man, but well fet, tir. and ftrong, induftrious, cautious, of good counfel, gentle, and well proportion'd, very brave, as we have feen, and fhall fee hereafter. To celebrate this victory, the Indians folemniz'd publick games of wreftling, run- ning, leaping, and other proofs of their ftrength and dexterity : they made alfo great feafting with dancings, and for feveral days did nothing but rejoice and be merry ; but ilill without forgetting to be upon their guard, as men that expected their enemies, whom they prefum'd defirous of revenge. Villagran Francifco de Villagran was lieutenant-ge- marches neral to Valdivia when he was kill'd ; who Valdivia*/ Kma -^ n & c ^^ m command, afiembled all death. ne c °uld to go and take vengeance of the enemy for this defeat. Setting out, he came as far as Arauco ; and being come to a high mountain in the way, he found Lau- taro on the top of it, with ten thoufand men, without having fent out any to difturb the Spaniards march; for he had left all the paf- feseafy, to oblige them to come to that place : it was not far from the fea, which wafh'd the foot of the mountain on one fide ; the coming up on the other fide was eafy; all the reft was precipice ; but the top was a plain fit to draw up in, and very proper for his defign. The Spanijh general being in prefence, And comet the armies began to draw up on both fides ; *• * ia " l$ and not to make the Indians too prefump-^. f au * tuous, he order'd three troops of horfe to begin the charge, in hopes to draw the In- dians from their poft, but in vain ; for though they made three attacks, yet Lau- taro would not ftir, but receiv'd them with fhowers of arrows, ftones, and darts,which made them retire fafter than they came on. Our people, who could not break this bat- talion, with the evident danger of falling into precipices, did what they could, but with little effect, only tiring their horfes ; for the enemy kept his poft, not a man of them ftini:,g out of his rank ; only Lau- taro would permit fome of the braveft to go out, and defy the Spaniards body to bo- dy. There came forth, among the reft, a brave youth, call'd Curioman, who taking a long career, would throw his lance with that dexterity, that he wounded many of the Spaniards : he did this feven times, and at the eighth, Villagran, being vex'd at his importunate boldnefs, commanded a famous foldier, call'd Diego Lano, to chaftife the Indian s infolence, which he did ; and it was all this high courage and ftrength could per- form. The Spaniards feeing themfelves tir'd, and that all the movement of their horfe fignified little, and that the Indians were taking the partes behind them, began to ufe their fmall Ihot, which at fir ft made a great {laughter among the Indians. Lau- taro, to remedy this inconvenience, com- manded Leucaton, one ol his captains, to attack the Spaniards on the flank, and not to flop till he came up clofe with their muf- queteers, that by this means mingling with them, they might avoid their fmall Ihot, which in that cale could not be of any ufe to the Spaniards, without wounding their own men too. This he obferv'd, and they ever fince have practis'd the fame with good fuccefs; and without this boldnefs, in which they always lofe fome men, they would be much inferior to the Spaniards, they having no fire-arms to ufe in the like manner : they fliew Chap. 16. Kingdom of C H I L E. 3 i fhew in this their invincible courage, and undifturb'd bravery, by which they make to themfelves a defence of their own ene- mies; for being once mingled with them, they cannot offend them,without deftroying at the fame time their own people. The fight on both fides was bravely main- tain'd, Lautaro relieving and encouraging his men, as Villagran did his, both of them doing the parts both of general and fol- dier, and expofing themfelves to the great- eft danger. He that fignaliz'd his valour moft on our fide, was the famous captain Pedro Olmos de Aquillera, killing with his own hand four of the chiefs of the Indians. Our army was encourag'd with his valour, which he inherited from that noble family fo fpread in Andaluzia : he was feconded by the Bernales Pantoias, Alvarados, and many others, who perform'd wonders in this bat- tle, which was long contefted, very bloody, and in fufpence to the laft. The enemy was much fuperior in ftrength to our forces, and therefore the victory began to incline to their fide ; for though Villagran the gene- ral, and fome others, would rather have chofe to die there with honour, than turn their backs, yet the greateft part judging that there was no honour loft in a vigorous retreat, and that it would be rafhnefs to perfift in fo defperate a cafe, they began to retire, fighting and defending themfelves ; but the enemy, elevated with this fuccefs, followed clofe, and having knock'd Villa- gran off his horfe, they had made an end of him, if he had not valiantly defended Oval le. himfelf till thirteen of his men came to his. l6 4<5- relief. V-^y^ Thefe famous commanders did not obtain The S P 3 " lefs glory in this retreat, than if they had niards -^ • T j J • cl c u r „' . ten a econA gain d a victory ; for the enemy rollowingr ; ,» e . them for fix leagues together, being a hun- dred to one, and having feiz'd upon moft of the pafles, and the numbers ftill increa- fing, yet the Spaniards made a noble de- fence, and kill'd many of them. Thofe who efcap'd from this engagement, came with the fad news of the ill fuccefs to the city of the Conception, which fet all the in- habitants in an uproar, mingled with la- mentations and cries, every one being in fome meafure concern'd in this calamity ; for between Spaniards and friendly Indians, there died in this engagement two thoufand five hundred. One would have thought the day of judgment had been come, to fee the confufion that was in the city upon this news ; one laments the death of his father, another of her husband ; fome cry for their fons, fome for their brothers ; the women wring their hands, pull off their hair, fill the air with lamentable cries ; the children cling to their parents, asking for their loft fa- thers, which is more grievous to them than daggers. In the midft of thefe horrors, night came on, in which no one could fhut their eyes, for the memory of their misfor- tunes keep the foul attentive, without any confolation. CHAP. XVII. Lautaro facks the City of the Conception, and Caupolican befieges the City of the Imperial, which is defended by the Queen of Heaven. Misfortunes feldom come alone; and fo it happened to this afflicted city, which, inftead of receiving comfort from the approaching day, no fooner did it ap- pear, when the noife of drums and trumpets gave a warm alarm of the enemies being at hand. Here the confufion increas'd; for now the concern was not for the lofs of others, but for every one's own fafety, the danger threatening them fo immediately : there was nothing but diforder, no counfel nor refolution being to be found in the wifeft: they could not defend themfelves, becaufe they were fo over-powered in num- bers by the enemy ; and the retreat, though necefiary, was difficult, becaufe of the ap- proach of the Indians. In this hard con- flict, at laft the refolution that prevail'd, was to abandon the city, without pretend- ing to fave any thing but their lives. They leave the city then, and all the gold they They fly had got together in fuch quantities. They from the go out in long files, die mothers helping 9 once P" their little children along: the way that they undertook, was to the city of St. J ago, a long one, in which many rivers were to be crofs'd, and hard pafles to be gone thorough: this labour was accompanied, with the perpetual fright of the enemies purfuing them. Who can relate the hard- ships of hunger and other fufferings, through fo long a tract of mountains, defarts, and uninhabited countries ? How the women, the children, the old men, could bear this fatigue, we muft leave to imagination to reprefent the true idea of thefe misfor- tunes ! Let us therefore return to the In- dians. The Spaniards had hardly made an end of abandoning the city, when the In- ntersmi dians enter'd into it ; and not being able facks tht to ci 'y- x 3 2 Of the Nature and Properties of the Eook V. Ovalle. to execute their rage upon the inhabitants, 1646. t h e y did it upon the houfes, to which they V^y>to/ £ t ^ re ^ an ^ confufpj'j them to the very foundation, killing even the very animals which the Spaniards left behind them. Thus was loft the city moft abounding in gold, and fituated in the moft populous part of the Indian country ; for 'tis faid there were not lefs than a hundred thoufand Indians,v/ixh their families, who were all employed in ga- thering gold for the Spaniards, whom they enriched to that degree, that Pedro de Val- divia, if he had liv'd, would have had fif- ty thoufand Crowns of gold a-year, and others twenty and thirty thoufand. This burning of the city being over, news was brought, that Caupolican had called a great aflembly in Arauco, which made Lau- taro return with his people to be at it. "When the two generals of the Araucanos met, they greeted one another for the vic- tories obtained over the Spaniards ; and in fign of triumph, one hundred and thirty caciques, all drefTed themfelves in the fpa- nijh drefs with the cloaths they took from the Spaniards killed in the battle. The ge- neral had Valdivia's cloaths, which were, as 'tis reported of green velvet, laced with gold lace, a back and breaft of well tem- pered fteel, and a helmet with a great emerald for creft. All having feated them- felves in order by the general's command, he propofed to them the defign of conquer- ing back all that was gained from them by the Spaniards, who now were fo dejected with their lofs. They all agreed to his de- fire, every one delivering his opinion with great pride and arrogance. 'Tis faid, that the old and prudent Colocolo, hearing them deliver their opinions with fo much infolence and prefumption, that it looked as if all the world was too weak to refift their va- lour, humbled them a little, by putting them in mind, That if they had obtained two victories, the Spaniards had gained ma- ny more over them, and had made them ferve as flaves ; therefore that they ought to behave themfelves with moderation and temper, that they might expect fuccefs from their arms ; and added, that it was his opi- nion, that they fhould divide their forces into three parts, and at the fame time affault the city of the Imperial. Pucbecalco, a famous conjuring Cacique, following the fame thought of humbling the intolerable haughtinefs of the aflembly, told them, That they might give over their pre- fumption ; for he was to acquaint them, that having confulted his oracles, they had an- fwered him, That though at prefent they were fo victorious, yet at laft they were to live un- der the Spanijh yoke in perpetual fiavery. The Cacique Tucapel could not bear to hear this ; and rifing from his place, with his mace of arms gave him fuch a blow as took away his life. The general was highly of- fended at this infolence, and being refolved to chaftize the author of it, the whole af- fembly was difturbed ; and though they all endeavoured to lay hold on the murderer, yet he defended himfelf fo well with his mace of arms, that it was not eafy to fcize him : but Lautaro, who had great power with the general, made up the whole bufi- nefs ; and the refult of the council being to befiege the city of the Imperial, they imme- diately put it in execution. Their army took its pofts three leagues Caupolican from the Imperial; which city, though it ^0%" "> had a good garrifon of brave men, was notj^'-'f' neverthelefs prepared nor provided for a*™/^/. fiege with ammunition and victuals, becaufe racuioajly the enemies would have taken it, if any had t revenui - been fent to it ; but the queen of heaven de- livered them from this great danger. The enemies drawing near the city, there arofe on a fudden a mighty ftorm of hail and rain, with black clouds -, and their Epunamon ap- peared to them in form of a terrible dragon, calling out fire at his mouth, and his tail curled up, bidding them make hafte, for the city was theirs, being unprovided ; and that they fhould enter it, and put to the fword all the chriftians ; and fo difappeared. But as they were purfuing their defign, animated by this oracle, on a fudden the heavens cleared up, and a very beautiful woman ap- peared upon a bright cloud, and fhewing them a charming, but majeftick and fevere countenance, took from them the pride and haughtinefs infpired into them by their firft vifion, commanding them to return to their own homes, for god was refolved to favour the chriftians ; and they obey'd immediate- ly. To which the author who reports this ftory adds, That the whole camp faw the apparition, which was on the 23d of April, and that all agree in this. CHAP. Chap. 18. Kingdom of CHILE. 133 CHAP. XVIII. The City of the Conception is rebuilt ; and Lautaro having taken it a fecond Time „ marches to take the City of St. Jago, where he dies. ception re built. Lautaro takes it* fecondtime The Con- r TT H E Spaniards being in fafety, began X to think of returning to the Concep- tion, and rebuilding of it. To this end they raifed men at St. Jago, and with great dif- ficulty compaffed their intention, making a good fortrefs within the city for their better iecurity. The Indians of the neighbour- hood, though they were in their hearts as averfe as any others to be commanded by ftrangers, and to let them build cities in their territories, difTembled neverthelefs at prefent, but in due time gave advice to A- rauco, defiring help to drive out thefe new comers, or make an end of them at once. Lautaro came to them prefently with a good army ; and fome companies of Spaniards, •which went out to encounter him, were forced to retire to the fort they made, in which they defended themfelves as long as they were able to withftand the force of Lautaro ; but at laft being overpowered, they were forced to retire a fecond time to the city of St. Jago. Many Spaniards were loft, and Lautaro followed the pur- fuit, in which many brave actions were performed on both fides : among the reft, a famous Indian captain, called Rengo, following three Spani/h captains, who were retiring, called them cowards, and faid a hundred infolent things to them, which moved one of them to attack him at the paffage of a river •, but he fecured himfelf by choofing a ftrong poft ; fo the Spaniards went on to St. Jago, and Lautaro retreated to Arauco, where great rejoicings were made for this new victory. The Indians renewed their meetings ; and being much elevated with their fuccefs, they came to a refolution of not troubling them- felves with the leffer cities, which they rec- koned as their own ; but to attack the ca- pital of St. Jago. Lautaro offered to un- dertake this enterprize -, and chufing the moft warlike among them, he marched with a powerful army. He palled the rivers Biobio, Itata, Maule, and Mataquito ; near this laft he raifed a fort to fecure his retreat, if need were, he being engaged far from his own territories. When the news of this refolution came to St. Jago, many looked upon it as a fable, not being capable of imagining, that the Indians had boldnefs enough to march fo far to attack them ; but thofe who were Lautaro marches to befiege St. Jago. come back from the city of the Conception undeceived them, as knowing by experience Lauta'ro's courage ; they therefore fortified the place, and provided it : they alio fent out parties to engage the enemies, if the oc- cafion offered ; but Lautaro forced them to return in hafte to carry the news, and yet fome remained behind too. Francifco de Villagran, the lieutenant-ge- T ;, e s pa . neral was fick at this time ; and fo fent hisniards coufin Pedro de Villagran, with all the force march t0 he could make, to meet Lautaro ; they meet lodged within half an hour from the fort which the Indians had raifed upon the Rio Claro ; the next day they entered the fort without any refiftance •, for Lautaro had cunningly ordered his men to feem to fly, that he might catch the Spaniards in the fort ; and fo, when he faw his time, he gave the fignal, and his men fell on the Spaniards like lions, who had enough to do to make their retreat, and efcape from their hands. The Indians followed them for a league, doing them much mifchief, though they defended themfelves with great valour. Lautaro feigned a fecond time to fly i and our people being reinforced, engaged him a-frefh. They attacked his fort, and gave three afiaults to it ; where they were received with fhowers of arrows, darts, and ftones, and at laft forced to retire to a valley 5 whence they defign'd to return, and try their fortune again: but Lautaro faved them the trouble ; for refolving to make an end of them all at once, and in order to it feigning that he wanted provifions, he fent to our camp to demand fome. His project was to let in a river upon the Spaniard's camp, which he could do conveniently, becaufe it was al- ready in dams and canals ; and fo having made a marih of the ground where they lodged, fo as they fhould not be able to ftir, feize all the panes behind them. But Villagran having difcovered this ftratagem, raifed his camp, and retired to St. Jago, to the great difappointment of the enemy. Yet this did not make Lautaro give over his defign ; for confidering that he could not attack St. Jago, which was well pro- vided with men and ammunition, except he had a greater ftrength, he raifed a fort in a valley to cover himfelf, while his fuccours fhould arrive, and enable him to attack St. Jago. Thofe of the city were making, M m with 1 34. Of the Nature and Properties of the Book V. Ovalle. with great care, preparations for their de- 1646. f ence . anc i had f ent f or fuccours to all the ^"V w ' other cities. Their general Villagran had fent out upon this defign ; and making as if he was going to Arauco, had on a iud- den marched to the Imperial, from whence he brought many good men away with him ; and while Lautaro was raifing his fort, Villagran, guided by an Indian, came fwiftly and filently upon Lautaro, and at- tacked his fort. In the firft affault that was Lautaro given, Lautaro himfelf fell, wounded by an killed by an arrow, which {truck him in the heart : thus ended that valiant captain of the Araucanos. His foldiers were not at all difcouraged with arrow. this misfortune of their general ; but rather enraged with fuch a lofs, and a defire to revenge his death, they fell like lions upon the Spaniards, taking no quarter at their hands. There were on both fides great ac- tions performed •, but the refolution of the Indians was the nobleft in the world, pre- ferring their glory to their lives, which they husbanded fo little, that though they were broke, and but few left in a fighting; condition, yet they ran upon the Spaniards lances, and with their hands pulled them into their bodies, to come clofe to their ene- my, and revenge their death with his, or at leaft die in the attempt. CHAP. XIX. 'Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendoca comes to the Government of Chile ; what happened at his Arrival } and in the Engagement he had with the Araucanos. A 1 FT E R the death of Pedro de Valdi- via, there was application made from Chile to the viceroy of Peru, who is to pro- vide a governor till the king can fend one, that is, both prefident and governor indepen- dent of Peru. The viceroy at this time was Don Antonio Hurtado de Mendofa, marquis of Canete, who governed with great zeal, and a prudent feverity, making exemplary punifhments where they were neceffary, by which he fecured the country. He had then with him his fon Don Garcia Hurtado de Mendofa, who afterwards fucceeded him in his viceroyfhip, with as much applaufe and efteem of the world. The embafiadors from Chile defired him of his excellency the father for their governor, which he granted. King Philip the fecond had ap- pointed the Adelantado Hyeronimo de Alde- rete, to fucceed the governor Pedro de Val- divia, whofe death was known at court ; but the news came likewife that Alderete was dead in the ifland of "Taboga near Pana- ma. The viceroy's fon having raifed a good body of horfe, fent fome of them by land with the horfes, and he embarked with the reft ; and after a hard ftorm, in which they had like to have been all loft, he arrived in the bay of the city of the Conception, and Don Gar- landed upon the ifland of Quinquina, to aa.thenew j n f orm himfelf from thence of the ftate of ChikjLds tne country. The people of the ifland, who ofQuiri- were fierce and warlike, took arms when quina. they faw the fhips draw near the harbour, and pretended to hinder the Spaniards from landing; but having no fire-arms, as foon as the cannon of the fhips began to fire, they gave way. As foon as the governor landed he publifhed the defign of his coming, that the Indians might know it ; which was, to fave their fouls by the predication of the gofpel, and reconcile them to god by the means of baptifm ; and to confer that fa-* crament, he had with him religious men of the famous orders of St. Francis and the Mercede: that if they would fiibmit to that, he would treat with them in the name of the emperor Charles V. This declaration reach- ed the ears of the Araucanos ; and there af- fembled at Arauco fixteen caciques, and many other captains, to treat about what was beft for them to do in this cafe ; and though many youthful and arrogant fpeeches were made, according to their ufual haugh- tinefs, which made them defpife all good counfel and peace, yet the old and prudent Colocolo reftrained their pride with prudent reafons, and perfuaded them to treat with the Spaniards, fince they were by them in- vited to do it. It cannot hurt us, faid he, to hear them : we Jhall have our forces as firong Jlill to maintain our right, if they de- mand unjuft things. This opinion was fol- lowed by the moft prudent among them ; and they fent for their ambafiador the Ca- The Indians ciaue Milalan, a man of great rhetor ick and/"-^ '*»«»- eloquence among them, giving him order ia Jf aJ <> r ' to treat with the Spaniards, and obferve well/,, w . their ftrength ; and that he fhould fhew in- clinations to peace, to draw them to land on the continent, and forfake the ifland, hoping that the defire of gold would tempt them to go further into the country. Milalan came to the governor's tent ; and making a fmall but civil bow, faluted him, and the other Spaniards that were with him ; then with chearful countenance he delivered his mefiage. He faid, That his countrymen ad- mitted the terms of peace that -were propofed, andjhoidd obferve thofe of friendfhip ; not out of Chap. 19. Kingdom of CHILE. 35 of any terror or apprehenfion caufed in them by the arrival ofthefe new forces; for no pow- er was great enough to terrify them, having fufficiently experienced their ftrength in the fuccefs they had hitherto had ; but that tabic h mov'd them was the compaffion they had for fo many innocent people, fo many women and children, who, upon occafion of ibis war, remain d widows and orphans : that upon fair terms they would own the king e/Spain, upon condition that he did not con- cern bimfelf any ways with their liberty or rights ; that if they had any thought of ailing by violence, and making them flaves, . they woidd fooner eat their own children, and kill themfelves, thanfuffcr it. The governor anfwered him with all af- furance of a good treatment as they expect- ed-, and having made him fome prefents, difpatch'd him back to give an account of his embafiy : but this was not fufficient fe- curity for either fide i fo they remain'd upon their guard. The Indians obferving the caution of the Spaniards, to give them more fecurity, feign'd to difmifs their forces, but fecretly gave them orders to ftand up- on their guard, and not lay down their arms, but be ready upon any occafion that might happen : yet the Spaniards for all this did not think fit to land upon the conti- nent, but ftay'd two months upon the ifland u, lands on where they firft landed, till the winter was the conti- entirely over. About the fpring, they fet vent, and on fhore about one hundred and thirty men of the braveft among them, to raife a fort, as they did, upon the top of a hill which overlooks the city of Penco, (otherwife call'd the city of the Conception.) Under the protection of this fortrefs, the reft of the Spaniards went out of the ifland, hoping, that in a little time, their horfes, which were coming by land, would arrive, having fome news of them : in the mean time, they cut wood and fafcines to fortify their camp, the governor and the commanders fhewing an example to the reft in the labour of re- trenching themfelves, and cutting of wood, as if they had never done any thing elfe all their life - time. They brought it to per- fection in a little time, and planted upon it eight field-pieces, with all other necefla- ry provifions for their defence. The Tndl- The Araucanos, who were watching all ans attack their motions, no fooner faw them bufy in ''• their fort, but, without expecting any fur- ther proof of their intentions, which they took to be for war, call'd immediately an affembly, and with all their ftrength came like lions, with a refolution to demolifh the new fort. They took up their poft at Tal- caguano, about two miles from the Spaniards fort, and about break of day they gave an rai/es * fort. alarm, and having firft challeng'dout many Ovalle. Spaniards to fingle combat, they at laft fell \j^zl on in a body, with no more fear of the can- ^v^-' non-bullets than if they had been of cotton or wooll, knowing, that though they re- ceiv'd at firft fome damage, it could laft no longer than till the battalions were engag'd. With this refolution they tell on like lions, and fome of them got over the fortifica- tions ; amongft whom wasTucapel, who did wonderful actions. Neither were the Spa- niards unprepar'd for them, doing extraor- dinary things, which it were too long to defcribe in particular, though the actions were fuch as very well deferve it. The Spaniards who were in the ifland and *"* are aboard the fhips, hearing of the danger of M e " their companions, came to their affiftance, and by the help of God, who aided them, join'd their friends ; and then thus united they began to prevail over the Araucanos ; who, finding themfelves inferior, and ha- ving loft many of their braveft men, began to retreat all but Tucapel,who having ftay'd laft, and being forely wounded, yet made his efcape from the Spaniards, whom he left full of admiration of his valour and re- folution. About this time the horfes which earned »«»£»• from St. J ago arriv'd, and with them a?T£/*- troop of good horfemen from the Imperial. The enemies mufter'd all their forces, and the Spaniards went to feek them out in the valley of Arauco, where they had another very bloody engagement: the Araucanos fled, or rather retir'd -, and the Spaniards having taken one prifoner call'd Gualbarino, they, in order to terrify the reft, cut off both his hands ; but the Araucanos were fo far from being terrified by it, that this enraged them the more; for Gualbarino himfelf being return'd to his countrymen, went up and down, begging them to re- venge the injury done to him, which they all looked upon as their own. Caupolican their general fent to challenge the governor Don Garcia with all his ftrength, telling him, that he would ftay for him in his camp, which he moved near the Spanifh camp, which was at Millar apue. He came Heches over night ; and the next day prefented Caupolican him battle ; which was as well difputed as J*J['^ the reft, both fides fighting with extreme valour. The Indians prefied the Spaniards fo hard, that victory had declared for them, had not a Spaniflj battalion, in which alone remain'd all the Spaniards hopes, charg'd fo defperately among the Indians, that they were forced to retire, and leave the field to the Spaniards ; but their retreat was with great honour and reputation. 'Tis related, that in this engagement fome of the neigh- bouring i%6 Of the Nature and ^Properties of the Book V, OvALLE-bouring Indians were made prifoners; and 1646. that though they were put to a mod ex- Km * m V~ > *' quifite torture, to force them to reveal fomething that the Spaniards wanted to know, yet they remain'd conftant and true to their country, as if they had been infen- fible of pain. The Spaniards had here a confiderable advantage •, for, befides many dead enemies whom they left upon the fpot, they took twelve prifoners of the chief among the Indians, whom they hang'd up- on fo many trees for an example to the reft ; and among them that fame Gualbarino; who not only mewed in dying an intrepid mind , but encouraged the others : and amongft the reft, a Cacique, who began to fear and beg his life ; to whom Gualbarino fpoke before all with fo much haughtinefs, taxing his bafe cowardice as if he had been the conqueror, and not the conquered, which ftruck the Spaniards with fuch admiration, that they were befide themfelves. From this place our camp marched to He raifes the valley where Valdivia was loft. Here the Spaniards raifed a good fort ; from whence they made their excurfions upon the enemy, endeavouring to advance their con- quefts, but not without danger of being anothtr fort. often cut off; particularly the hazard they ran at a narrow pafs, caus'd by the moun- tains on the way to Puren, where they were attack'd by the Indians, and very hard fet by them, whom they might have deftroy'd if they had not fallen to plun- der the baggage : for a company of Spa- niards obferving this mifcarriage, feiz'd on a fpot on the top of an hill, from whence AnA again with their fmall fhot they fo gall'd the In- beitts * h * dians below, that they fled in confufion to 1 ™"™ 3, avoid fuch a tempeft, leaving the Spaniards mafters of the field, but much weakened : having been forely handled in this rencoun- ter, they retir'd to their camp, where they were receiv'd with great demonftration of joy. After this, leaving a good garrifon in the fort, well provided for two months, the governor went to vifit the other cities, to ftrengthen them, and provide them with neceffaries againft all attacks, which they had reafon to fear ; for Caupolican, enraged that in three months he had loft three vic- tories, had call'd a general afiembly ; where it was refolv'd never to give over, but ei- ther die or conquer, that they might drive out the Spaniards, and reftore their coun- try to its liberty. CHAP. XX. More Events of War : The 'Death and Converfion • could oblige them to reveal what they ^^V^ might know more. But it being very hard there fhould not Caupoli- be one traytor among many loyal men, the can be- Spaniards lite at laft upon one of his {o\- tr *y td h diers, who was difcontented that he had not"*^ me „ been advane'd according to his pretenfions, who betrayed to them where he was : this man guided them by a fecret path to a place where they could not be difcover'd, and from thence fhewed them a very thick wood, about nine miles from Ongolmo, where in a thicket by a river fide, over a precipice, this brave man had hid himfelf till he could get a new army, and rally his men. The Spaniards came upon him on a fud- He is taken den, and furpriz'd him with the few that h ,h * s P a * were with him ; and though he did all that was in his power to defend himfelf, yet they mailer' d him. His wife feeing him a prifoner, and his hands tied behind him, call'd him coward, and us'd all the oppro- brious language to him that was poffible; Caupolican was defervedly among the In- His darac- dians the moft valued of their generals ; and UT - accordingly, in an affembly of fixteen Ca- ciques, all fovereign lords, who met to raife an army againft the Spaniards, he had the chief command given him. This was the man who, with fourfcore bold fellows, fur- priz'd the caftle ofArauco, and overcame the Spaniards in a bloody encounter with- out the city walls : this was he who durft expect die general Valdivia in open field, and routed him and his whole army, fo as there was not one Spaniard left alive: this was he who deftroyed Puren, and fack'd Penco, not leaving one ftone upon another in it, the Spaniards having been all fright- ed away by the terror of his .name : this, in fine, was the man who manag'd all the war with fuch fuccefs, by his military skill and valour, that his authority was every where refpected. This great man was now, by the means of a traitor, deliver'd up to his moft cruel enemies. In this calamity he fhewed no bafenefs ; for though he beg- ged his life, it was in a grave way, pro- mifing in return to caufe all the country to fubmit to the king of Spain, and to give way to introduce the chriftian religion. " Confider, faid he, to captain Reynofo, Hisfpeech. " that what I promife, I am able to per- " form, by the great veneration that all " my people have for me; and if thou doll " not accept of this proffer, thou wilt do " nothing ; fince for one head taken away, " there will rife up a hundred Caupolicans " to revenge my death, that the true one Nn "will 1 38 Of the Nature and Properties of the, &c, Book V. OVAIIE." 1646. <■<■ will not be miffed. I defire not to be fet at liberty, but to remain thy prifo- ner till I perform my promife." All thefe reafons were of no ufe to Cau- He is fen- polican, for he was publickly fentenced to tented, \y C empaled alive, and fhot to death with arrows, for a terror to the reft of the In- dians ; though as time has fince fhewed, this had no other effect, than to light the fire of war more and more, and make the wound almoft incurable. He heard this hard fentence without any alteration in his countenance ; but he defir'd with great con- cern to be baptiz'd. The priefts are fent B»ftiz.'J, for, and after a fhort inftruction he receives the holy ablution, and the character of a chriftian. After this the fentence was exe- Antl cuted upon him, which he endur'd with cmed. ' great conftancy. The Conclufion. THOUGH father Ovalk has conti- nued in the remainder of his treatife to give an account of the various events of the war with the Araucanos, in which nar- rative he runs through the commands and actions of all the governors of Chile, to the peace made with that nation •, yet it being by him more a piece of courtihip to his nation, and to thofe families, than an in- formation inftructive to a foreign reader, it has been thought proper to take the death of that great general Caupolican for the firft natural period of that war. In the courfe of the remaining narrative, there are fo ma- ny fuperftitious notions inculcated, fo ma- ny improbable miracles given for the foun- dation of great enterprizes, and fuch a monkifh fpirit runs through the work, that here in England it would rather prejudice than recommend the impreflion, and i» therefore omitted. Sir ., .. I , , ' «iw»iW—> _ mm* •**."»'»»*