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THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 

THE 
 
 BOOK OF THE THAMES, 
 
 ffs flist fu its Jfali. 
 
 ME. AND MBS. S. C. HALL. 
 
 “ Though deep, yet clear ; though gentle, yet not dull ; 
 Strong without rage, without o’erflowing, full.” 
 
 Denham. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 ALFRED W. BENNETT, 5, BISHOPSGATE WITHOUT ; 
 VIRTUE & CO., 26, IVY LANE. 
 
 1867. 
 
LONDON : 
 
 VIRTUE AND CO., PRINTERS, 
 CITY ROAD. 
 
INTRODUCTION'. 
 
 N this book we have traced the “King of Island Hi vers ” 
 from the bubbling well out of which it issues, in the mea- 
 dow by Trewshury Mead — its lonely birthplace — through 
 its whole course, gathering tributaries, and passing with 
 them through tranquil villages, populous towns, and 
 crowded cities ; ever fertilising, ever beautifying, ever 
 enriching, until it reaches the most populous city of the 
 modern or the ancient world, forming thence the Great 
 Highway by which a hundred Nations traverse the globe. * 
 Our object will not be answered if we fail to show that, although in 
 landscape beauty it may he inferior to other British rivers, its graces 
 and its grandeur less, the Thames has attractions of its own which 
 place it high above all competitors ; while it is by no means poor in 
 natural gifts — of hill and dale, of wood and plain, of all that makes 
 free Nature a perpetual charm, a never-ending delight. Aided by 
 several accomplished artists, we have largely illustrated this volume, 
 not only by engravings of its picturesque scenery, hut by introducing 
 the various objects of interest that are found upon its hanks. 
 
 It is a pleasant task, and brings with it a large reward — that which 
 has for its aim and end to make manifest the advantages that recom- 
 pense a Home Tour. Any author, no matter how humble, who writes 
 
 * The book originally appeared in the pages of “The Art- Journal.’* 
 
VI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 of England, may show how manifold arc its means to create enjoyment, 
 to convey instruction, and to augment a rational pride of country — the 
 instinctive patriotism that may exist without contracting the heart or 
 narrowing the mind. 
 
 "We shall he, indeed, repaid largely if we are the means of inducing 
 travels at Home — to natural beauties, surely not less delightful because 
 of comparatively easy access — to scenes that are associated with glorious 
 memories, and are wholesome and honourable stimulants — to places, 
 such as the hanks of the river Thames, where every step is a reminder 
 that we live in a free land, under the sway of a Sovereign to whom 
 every subject of eveiy degree, while rendering obedience as a sacred 
 duty, offers the homage of the heart. 
 
 S. C. H. 
 
 A. M. H. 
 
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 The Source of the Thames . 
 
 PAGE 
 . 5 
 
 Bisliam Abbey .... 
 
 
 
 PAGE 
 . 74 
 
 The Church and Village of Cotes . 
 
 . . 7 
 
 Bisham Church 
 
 
 
 
 75 
 
 The First Bridge on the Thames . 
 
 . 8 
 
 Cookham Church 
 
 
 
 
 76 
 
 The First Mill 
 
 . . 9 
 
 Cliefden . r . . . 
 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 The Church, Somerford Keynes . 
 
 . 10 
 
 Maidenhead Bridge . 
 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 The Church at Kempsford 
 
 . . 11 
 
 Bray Church .... 
 
 
 
 
 81 
 
 Lechlade Bridge and Church 
 
 . 15 
 
 Monkey Island .... 
 
 
 
 
 82 
 
 The First Lock .... 
 
 . . 16 
 
 Down Place . 
 
 
 
 
 83 
 
 Badcot Bridge .... 
 
 . 17 
 
 Boveney Lock .... 
 
 
 
 
 84 
 
 New Bridge 
 
 
 Eton College .... 
 
 
 
 
 86 
 
 Hart’s Weir 
 
 
 Ancient Windsor Castle 
 
 
 
 
 87 
 
 Bablock Hythe Ferry 
 
 . . 22 
 
 The Bell Tower 
 
 
 
 
 88 
 
 Ensham Bridge .... 
 
 . 23 
 
 Crypt in Bell Tower . 
 
 
 
 
 89 
 
 Godstow Bridge .... 
 
 . . 25 
 
 Windsor Castle 
 
 
 
 
 90 
 
 Bums of Godstow Nunnerj r . 
 
 . 26 
 
 Edward III. and St. George 
 
 
 
 
 95 
 
 Oxford Castle 
 
 . . 31 
 
 Stoke Pogis Church 
 
 
 
 
 97 
 
 Friar Bacon’s Study 
 
 . 32 
 
 The Ivy-mantled Tower . 
 
 
 
 
 98 
 
 Folly Bridge 
 
 . . 40 
 
 Herne's Oak : the Earlier 
 
 
 
 
 100 
 
 Junction of the Cherwell and the Thames . 42 
 
 Herne’s Oak 
 
 
 
 
 101 
 
 Iffley Church 
 
 . . 43 
 
 Wickliff's Oak 
 
 
 
 
 102 
 
 Distant Y T iew of Abingdon Church 
 
 . . 45 
 
 Windsor Lock . 
 
 
 
 
 103 
 
 The Almshouses at Abingdon . 
 
 . . 46 
 
 Victoria Bridge 
 
 
 
 
 104 
 
 Clifton Hampton Church and Ferry 
 
 . 47 
 
 Old Windsor Church . 
 
 
 
 
 106 
 
 Lich-gate, Clifton .... 
 
 . . 48 
 
 View from Cooper’s Hill 
 
 
 
 
 107 
 
 Goring Church .... 
 
 . 53 
 
 Magna Charta Island 
 
 
 
 
 109 
 
 Whitchurch 
 
 
 The Boundary Stone 
 
 
 
 
 111 
 
 Pangbourne 
 
 
 Staines Bridge .... 
 
 
 
 
 112 
 
 Maple-Durham Church and Mill 
 
 . . 57 
 
 Laleham Ferry 
 
 
 
 
 113 
 
 Maple-Durham House . 
 
 . 58 
 
 Chertsey Bridge .... 
 
 
 
 
 114 
 
 Caversham Bridge . 
 
 . . 60 
 
 Shepperton Church 
 
 
 
 
 115 
 
 Sonning Church .... 
 
 . . 64 
 
 Walton Church . 
 
 
 
 
 116 
 
 Shiplake Church .... 
 
 . . 65 
 
 Sunbury 
 
 
 
 
 117 
 
 Wargrave Church 
 
 . . 66 
 
 Garrick’s Villa . 
 
 
 
 
 118 
 
 The Boat-house at Park Place 
 
 . . 67 
 
 Entrance to Hampton Court . 
 
 
 
 
 119 
 
 The Druid Temple at Park Place 
 
 . 68 
 
 Hampton Court: Garden Front. 
 
 
 
 
 122 
 
 Masks of the Thames and Isis 
 
 . . 70 
 
 The Maze 
 
 
 
 
 123 
 
 Island, Fawley Court . 
 
 . 71 
 
 The Swan at Ditton . 
 
 
 
 
 125 
 
 Medmenham Abbey 
 
 . . 72 
 
 Kingston Bridge . 
 
 
 
 
 129 
 
1 
 
 viii LIST OF 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Teddington Church 
 
 130 
 
 The Star-Chamber 
 
 . 170 
 
 Pope’s Villa 
 
 131 
 
 Old Westminster Hall 
 
 . 171 
 
 Twickenham Church 
 
 132 
 
 St. Paul’s Cathedral .... 
 
 . 173 
 
 Hum House 
 
 133 
 
 Wren’s Original Design for St. Paul’s 
 
 . 174 
 
 Orleans House 
 
 134 
 
 Old St. Paul’s Cathedral 
 
 . 175 
 
 View from Richmond Hill . ... 
 
 136 
 
 Paris Garden 
 
 . 176 
 
 Richmond Hill 
 
 137 
 
 The Globe Theatre .... 
 
 . 177 
 
 Richmond Church 
 
 139 
 
 Gate : Old London Bridge . 
 
 . 178 
 
 Richmond Bridge 
 
 140 
 
 Old London Bridge .... 
 
 . 179 
 
 Water Pavilion at Sion House . . . 
 
 143 
 
 Houses on London Bridge, 17o6 
 
 . 180 
 
 Rails-head Ferry 
 
 144 
 
 Billingsgate 
 
 
 Kew Palace 
 
 146 
 
 The Custom House .... 
 
 . 182 
 
 Gainsborough’s Tomb .... 
 
 147 
 
 The Tower 
 
 
 Kew Bridge 
 
 143 
 
 Chapel in the Tower .... 
 
 . 184 
 
 Mortlake Church 
 
 150 
 
 Ships at Tower Stairs .... 
 
 . 185 
 
 Hogarth’s House, Chiswick . . . . 
 
 151 
 
 Rotherhithe Church : Tunnel Pier 
 
 . 186 
 
 Hogarth’s Tomb 
 
 152 
 
 Entrance to the West India Docks 
 
 . 1S8 
 
 Hammersmith Bridge 
 
 153 
 
 Isle of Dogs 
 
 . 189 
 
 Hammersmith Church .... 
 
 154 
 
 Deptford Dockyard .... 
 
 . 190 
 
 The Star and Garter, Putney Bridge . . 
 
 155 
 
 The Old Dreadnought .... 
 
 . 191 
 
 Fulham Church, and Prior’s Bank 
 
 156 
 
 Greenwich Hospital . . . ■ 
 
 . 192 
 
 Battersea Bridge 
 
 157 
 
 The Naval School, Greenwich . 
 
 . 194 
 
 Chelsea Church 
 
 158 
 
 Woolwich 
 
 . 196 
 
 Sir Thomas More’s House . . . . 
 
 159 
 
 Woolwich Dockyard .... 
 
 . 198 
 
 Cheyne Walk 
 
 160 
 
 Erith 
 
 
 Chelsea Hospital : Side View . . . 
 
 161 
 
 Grays Church 
 
 . 200 
 
 Chelsea Hospital : Front View . 
 
 162 
 
 Gravesend Reach 
 
 . 201 
 
 The New Bridge at Chelsea . . . 
 
 164 
 
 Cliffe Church 
 
 . 202 
 
 Old Ranelagh 
 
 165 
 
 Sheerness 
 
 
 Lambeth Palace and Church . . . 
 
 166 
 
 Thames and Medway .... 
 
 . 204 
 
 Guard Chamber, Lambeth Palace 
 
 163 
 
 Nore Light Vessel 
 
 . 205 
 
 Houses of Parliament 
 
 169 
 
 The Reculvers 
 
 . 206 
 
 PHOTOGRAPHIC 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 
 Godstow Bridge. 
 
 
 Henley. 
 
 
 From the Folly Bridge, Oxford. 
 
 
 Great Marlow'. 
 
 
 Doorway': Ifley Church. 
 
 
 Eton, 
 
 
 IHey Mill. 
 
 
 Windsor. 
 
 
 At Nuneham Courtenay. 
 
 
 Chertsey Bridge. 
 
 
 Abingdon. 
 
 
 Hampton. 
 
 
 Clifton Hampton. 
 
 
 Tower of London. 
 
 
 Goring. 
 
 
 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES, 
 
 FROM ITS RISE TO ITS FALL. 
 
 HE Thames is “ the King of Island 
 Rivers ; ” if deficient in the grander fea- 
 tures of landscape, it is rich in pictorial 
 beauty ; its associations are closely linked 
 with heroic men and glorious achieve- 
 ments ; its antiquities are of the rarest 
 and most instructive order ; its natural 
 productions of the highest interest ; it 
 wanders thi’ough fertile meads and beside 
 pleasant hanks, gathering strength from a 
 thousand tributaries ; on either side are 
 remains of ancient grandeur, homely vil- 
 lages, retired cottages, palatial dwellings, 
 and populous cities and towns ; boats and barges, and the sea-craft of a 
 hundred nations, indicate and enhance its wealth ; numerous locks and 
 bridges facilitate its navigation, and promote the traffic that gives it 
 fame. Its history is that of England : the Britons, the Romans, the 
 Saxons, the Danes, and the Normans, in turn made it their “ seat of 
 war,” or, settling upon its banks, sought the repose of peace and the 
 blessings of agriculture and commerce. In all the civil contests of 
 centuries it obtained melancholy renown : the intrenched camp, the 
 castle, the baronial hall, the mansion, the viUa, occupied adjacent steeps, 
 
 B 
 
2 
 
 TIIF, J500K OF THE THAMES. 
 
 commanded fords, or adorned its sides, as harmony took the place of 
 discoid, and tranquillity succeeded strife. There is scarcely a mile of 
 its borders which may not give birth to some happy thought in associa- 
 tion with the past : abbeys, monasteries, and churches exhibit their 
 remains, or “rear the tall spire,” consecrated by use and age; the better 
 parts of their structures having endured with the purer portions of the 
 ancient faith. Sites and memorials of famous battles — king with baron, 
 lord with serf, ancient owners of the soil with its invaders, those who 
 warred for despotism or fought for liberty, for feudal rights or freedom ; 
 the cromlech of the Briton, the tumulus of the Roman, the barrow of 
 the Saxon, the sculptured tomb of the knight, and the simple monument 
 of the gentleman ; — these are to be found, in numbers, on its banks. 
 The names of very many of the great men of England — who “ penned ” 
 or “uttered wisdom” — are nearly or remotely connected with this river: 
 in its “ fields beloved” their “ careless childhood stray’d; ” in its city of 
 colleges, “for meditation apt,” their youth gathered strength for the 
 strife of manhood. To its banks full often came the soldier, the states- 
 man, the scholar, and the poet, “after life’s fitful fever,” to seek that 
 rest from labour which is labour’s best recompence — to enjoy alike 
 
 “ The solid pomp of prosperous days, 
 
 The peace and shelter of adversity.’’ 
 
 Blowing through rich alluvial soil, that is never sterile, during the 
 whole of its course it meets not an acre of unmanageable bog, and 
 hardly a square yard that does not produce pasture or foliage, except 
 where it refreshes and prospers active villages, busy towns, or crowded 
 cities — venerable Oxford, regal Windsor, “mighty London,” and a 
 hundred places, wealthy and famous. It would be indeed impossible to 
 over-estimate the value of the Thames to the British capital. It is said 
 that when one of our sovereigns, angry with the chief magistrate of the 
 Metropolis, threatened to ruin it by removing the Court, he received the 
 memorable answer, “But your Majesty cannot remove the Thames ! ” 
 
 It will require no very great stretch of imagination to pass from the 
 little streamlet in Trewsburv Mead to “the Pool” below the Tower. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 3 
 
 The river, born in a sequestered nook, grows and gathers strength until 
 it hears on its bosom “ a forest of masts ; ” enriches the greatest and most 
 populous city of any age ; ministers to the wants and luxuries of nearly 
 three millions of people — there alone ; becomes the mainstay of com- 
 merce, and the missionaiy of civilisation to mankind, carrying innumer- 
 able blessings throughout the Old World and the New; yet ever the 
 active auxiliary, and never the dangerous ally — keeping from its birth 
 to its close the character so happily conveyed by the famous lines of the 
 poet : — 
 
 “Though deep, yet clear; though gentle, yet not dull ; 
 
 Strong without rage ; without o’erflowing, full.’’ 
 
 Few, therefore, are the poets of England who have no word for “ Old 
 Father Thames! ” Even its minor enjoyments have been fertile themes 
 for the muse; and numerous are they who laud the “gentle craft” of 
 the angler, whose “idle time is never idly spent” beside the river which, 
 above all others, invites to contemplation, and promotes familiar inter- 
 course with Nature. Here, too, the botanist and the entomologist gathei 
 a rich harvest of instruction ; while to the landscape painter, wander 
 where he will, it is ever an open volume of natural beauties, which are 
 the only veritable teachers of art. 
 
 To this River — the King of Island Rivers — we dedicate this Book. 
 
 Before we ask the reader to accompany us on our Tour, we require 
 him to pause awhile, and consider two essential points — its source, and 
 the name under which it is rightly to he recognised and known. 
 
 Both are in dispute. The Churn, which rises at “ Seven Springs,” 
 about three miles from Cheltenham, and joins the Thames at Cricklade, 
 is sometimes described as the source of the great river. Generally 
 speaking, the source of a river is the spring farthest from its mouth ; 
 and the head of the Churn is farther from the Nore than Thames Head 
 by perhaps fifteen miles. But old writers, old maps, and old documents, 
 unite in representing “Thames Head,” near Cirencester, as the head of 
 the river Thames. 
 
 With respect to the name, it is derived directly from that by which it 
 was known in the time of Julius Caesar, Tameses, which, as well as its 
 
4 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Anglo-Saxon representative, Temese, is sufficiently near the modern 
 Thames to be considered as identical with it. 
 
 The field in which the Thames rises is called Trewsbury Mead, and 
 adjoins a Itoman encampment that has long borne, and still bears, the 
 name of Trewsbury Castle ; this “ castle” is a large mound, now covered 
 by trees, the Severn and Thames Canal separating it from a fountain 
 that, born in this secluded spot, becomes the great river that “ both 
 plants and waters Britain.” The birthplace of the Thames is in the 
 parish of Cotes, in Gloucestershire, but close to the borders of Wiltshire, 
 into which it soon passes. The district is usually described as “at the 
 foot of the Cotswold hills ; ” but these hills are nowhere seen from the 
 dell, and are, indeed, several miles distant. 
 
 The ancient Roman way — called Aceman or Akeman Street — 
 crosses the country within half' a mile of the source, and connects Ciren- 
 cester with Bath. The source is about three miles south-west of 
 Cirencester — a famous city in old times, and still a town of some 
 importance. 
 
 But the spot to which we direct the more immediate attention of our 
 readers — Trewsbury Castle — a tree-covered mound, at the foot of which 
 is the cradle of the Thames — retains nothing to indicate its long-ago 
 importance ; in the silence and solitude of the place, and looking across 
 the valley towards the great city of which this was an outpost, we 
 recalled the lines of the poet — 
 
 “ I was that city, which the garland wore 
 Of Britain’s pride, delivered unto me 
 By Roman victors, which it won of yore, 
 
 Though nought at all but ruins now I be, 
 
 And lie in my own ashes, as ye see.” 
 
 The true source is a well, which, when Boydell published his History, 
 in 1794, was “ enclosed within a circular wall of stone, raised about eight 
 feet from the surface of the meadow ; ” the stones have fallen, the well is 
 now filled in ; it was with difficulty we could ascertain that it contained 
 water — that water being in the sunny month of June many feet below 
 the surface ; but in winter it rises, forces itself through all impediments, 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 convey an idea of its “pleasantness,” or of its elevating influence over a 
 “people.” The first sight of the spire of his native village after years, 
 long years of wandering, has shaken many a high and firm heart ; and 
 tears of repentance, and hope, and good resolves, have been often called 
 
 ascends in thick jets, and overflows the valley, making its way to 
 greet those earlier tributaries that await its coming to mingle with it 
 and journey to the sea — “ most loved of all the ocean’s sons.” “ Thames 
 Head” is therefore pictured, in the accompanying engraving, merely as a 
 heap of stones, overshadowed by trees of no great size. 
 
 Poetry and prose have laboured from age to age to describe the 
 pictorial beauty and the moral power of what may be termed the 
 “church-landscape” of England; yet no description can adequately 
 
 HIE SOURCE OF THE THAMES. 
 
6 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 forth from comparatively hardened sinners by a sound of the church- 
 hell — first heard in the days of innocence and youth. There can be no 
 loneliness, even in imagination, equal to that •which the poet pictures in 
 “ Juan Fernandez ” : — 
 
 “ But the sound of the church-going: bell 
 These valleys and rocks never heard; 
 
 Never sigh’d at the sound of a knell, 
 
 Or smiled when a sabbath appear’d.” 
 
 In foreign countries, the richly-elaborated cathedral in the great square 
 commands our admiration ; hut what can we say of the meagre-looking 
 church, with its few trees, its rampant weeds, its neglected graveyard, 
 its dreary interior, its dismal pictures and painted effigies, making some- 
 times a feature in the scenery — hut how rarely, as with us, being the 
 sentiment, the centre, the crown and beauty of a whole ? Whatever 
 may be our feelings on certain points — with which this, our chronicle 
 of the royal English river, has happily nothing whatever to do — we 
 cannot withhold our tribute of gratitude to the spirit that has rightly 
 restored and fitly adorned so many of our parish churches, whether 
 in the crowded city, in the village, or amid the genial solitudes of our 
 country. 
 
 Standing beside the cradle of mighty Thames, and looking forth upon 
 a landscape wealthy in the gifts of tranquillity and hope, and in the 
 varied beauty of sunshine and shade, there rises the tower of the village- 
 church — the Church of Coates. Solemn and yet pleasing associations 
 crowd upon us ; for centuries it has been the beacon to thousands whose 
 graves are at its base, — they may not have been “village Hampdens,” 
 but they have fulfilled the mission allotted to them by Trovidence, and 
 sleep — these 
 
 “Rude forefathers of the hamlet ' — 
 
 beside the homes in which they lived, and under the shadow of the 
 church in which they prayed. What scenes of love and life, of joy and 
 sorrow, have alternated here — come and gone ! — as time ceaselessly 
 passed onward ! Generations after generations have seen the soft cheeks 
 of youth wither into the wrinkles of age, and the step so light and 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 7 
 
 elastic over moss and harebell, become slow and heavy, then feeble and 
 uncertain, tottering at last from the supporting crutch into the quiet 
 grave ! Surely are those village spires the lights of our land : come and 
 gone ! come and gone ! are all around ; yet ever enduring, ever inviting, 
 
 TIIE CHUKCH AND VILLAGE OF COTES. 
 
 ever rewarding, they continue. Age after age passes, their peaceful hells 
 are heard above the “crash of empires;” while fears of change alarm 
 the world, “ perplexing monarchs,” they discharge their mighty yet 
 simple task — 
 
 “ Invite to heaven, and point the way.” 
 
 Half a mile farther, perhaps, and the burns begin to gather into a 
 common channel, little trickling rills, clear as crystal, rippling by hedge- 
 sides, making their way among sedges, the water-plants appear, and the 
 Thames assumes the aspect of a perennial stream : so it runs on its course, 
 and brings us to the village of Kemble, which occupies a hillock about 
 half a mile from the bank ; its church-spire, forming a charming feature 
 in the landscape, standing on a gentle acclivity, and rising above a bower 
 of trees; — the railroad is previously encountered, the river flowing 
 underneath. 
 
8 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Pursuing our walk by the river-bank, we reach the First Bridge 
 which crosses the Thames — all previous passages having been made by 
 stepping-stones, laid across in winter and removed in summer. This 
 Bridge, which leads from the village of Kemble to that of Ewen, is level 
 with the road, the river flowing through three narrow arches; it is 
 without parapet. Hence, along the banks for a considerable distance, 
 
 THE FIBST JiHIDGE 0.\ THE THAMES. 
 
 there is no foot-path of any kind ; the traveller who would explore its 
 course must cross hedges and ditches, and avoid the main road to Ewen 
 an assemblage of cottages and farm-houses. 
 
 As we have pictured the first bridge that crosses our glorious river, we 
 may picture also the first of the many water-mills that derive from it the 
 power to minister to the needs of humanity. 
 
 Soon we reach the village of Asheton Keynes. The river here obtains 
 a picturesque character by being arched over in numerous instances, 
 forming footways to the various pretty cottages that skirt its bank. The 
 church is old, but by no means picturesque — the interior being thoroughly 
 modernised, and thus forming a contrast to the Church of Somerford 
 Keynes. There are in this village the sockets of three ancient crosses. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 church-tower is, however, a “ landmark ” for many miles round. It was 
 a famous town in old times, and is said to have been inhabited by 
 learned monks, from whom it derived its name of GreeUade, corrupted 
 into CreeJclade — another fanciful invention of the poets ; and Drayton, 
 
 c 
 
 Thence our path lay to Waterhay Bridge, and then across several 
 sloping fields laden with corn, from the elevations of which, above the 
 river, are obtained many fine views ; — and so we enter the ancient mar- 
 ket town of Cricklade, in Wiltshire. It presents no feature of interest, 
 except that at the bridge — a new bridge outside the town — the rivers 
 Churn and Bay meet, and mingle their waters with the Thames. Its 
 
 THE FIBST MILL O H THE THAMES. 
 
10 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 following ancient historians, makes this town the predecessor of Oxford, 
 where — 
 
 “ To Great Britain first the sacred Muses sung.” 
 
 The town of Cricklade is about ten miles from the source of the 
 Thames. “ Thames Ilead,” though in the county of Gloucester, is so 
 near to its southern border that the river, after meandering a mile or two, 
 enters Wiltshire — the village of Kemble being in that county : and it is 
 in Wiltshire the great river first assumes the character of a perennial 
 
 THE CHL'KCH, SOMERFORD KEYNES. 
 
 
 
 stream — for the meadows between that village and the source are, as we 
 have intimated, usually dry during summer months ; soon, however, the 
 river re-enters its native county, which it continues to fertilise during 
 many an after mile of busy toil and tranquil beauty. 
 
 Having rested awhile at Cricklade, we pursue the river on its course, 
 and arrive at Eisey Bridge. At this bridge the traveller will pause 
 awhile to examine the church, which, standing on a gentle acclivity, 
 overlooks the stream, that here assumes a bolder aspect, and is navigable 
 at all seasons for boats of small draught. A mile or two farther along its 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 11 
 
 banks, and we reach Castle Eaton — a village now, but once a place of 
 size and strength; “the grete mines of the Lord Zouche’s castelle ” 
 exist no more ; but, here and there, some venerable walls bear records of 
 “hoar antiquitie.” 
 
 Again the river flows onward — again waters flat, but fertile, fields — 
 again affords a rich supply of water-plants, but undergoes no change of 
 character ; yielding no food for thought until re-entering Gloucester- 
 shire, the county of its birth, it passes under the beautiful church, and 
 
 THE CHUECH AT KEMPSFOKD : AND THE GUNNEB’S BOOM. 
 
 washes the foundations of Kempsford — a palace of the Plantagenets 
 long ago. Of this there are some interesting remains, but of the dwell- 
 ing of their Saxon predecessors there exists only a vague tradition, 
 confirmed, however, now and then, by evidence gathered from adjacent 
 earth-mounds. 
 
12 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 The church is a noble structure, remarkable for the grand windows 
 which light the junction of nave and chancel, and above which rises the 
 tower. It was chiefly erected in the fourteenth century, at the expense 
 of Henry Duke of Lancaster, whose arms, and those of other noble 
 families, are conspicuously displayed amid the spandrels within. There 
 are many fragments of fine painted glass in the windows, one of the most 
 perfect delineating St. Anne teaching the Yirgin to read. There is also 
 a characteristic altar-tomb of a priest in the chancel, upon which is sculp- 
 tured the Itood, and the Yirgin in glory ; but they have been grievously 
 injured by the hands of iconoclasts. The floor is remarkable for its early 
 English tiles, and the roof for its timber-work. The porch is early 
 English, forming a framework for the earlier Norman door within it. 
 
 The vicar’s garden, adjoining, was originally known as the Provost’s 
 Garden (probably the garden of the provost-marshal), and, until the 
 year 1800, the road went to the ford across it. The level field on the 
 opposite side is still known as “ the Butts,” * and marks the site of the 
 ground appropriated to the military exercises of the soldiery who once 
 garrisoned the castle. “The Butts” were mounds of earth, marked 
 with a ring like a target, and were used in practising archery. A strong 
 arrow with a broad feather was necessary to be used ; such bows and 
 arrows as gave “ immortal fame ” to the archers of the English army at 
 Crecy and Poictiers. 
 
 Of the castle itself but a few fragmentary walls remain, and a portion 
 
 * Butts or “ dead marks,’’ as they were sometimes called, were embankments of earth having marks, 
 or “ bull’s eyes,” upon the flat face, for practising soldiers in archery. They were in constant use in the 
 
 middle ages, and erected near great towns, 
 or where soldiers were stationed — hence 
 the constant occurrence of the term 4 * Butts,” 
 appended to names of streets and places 
 near old cities. One of the most ancient 
 pictures of the exercise is copied on a re- 
 duced scale in our woodcut. The original is a 
 drawing in the famous psalter executed for 
 Sir Geoffrey Louterell, who died in 1345. 
 It exhibits an archer aiming at the butts, 
 his arrow drawn to the head ; several others 
 are stuck in his girdle. His companion points triumphantly to an arrow fixed in the bull’s-eye, and 
 awaits the prowess of his companion previous to trying again, for which purpose he already holds his 
 bow and arrow. 
 
THE BOOK OE THE THAMES. 
 
 13 
 
 of a tower, which is traditionally known as “the Gunner’s Room.” The 
 windows command the river, and the embrasures defend the castle at an 
 exposed angle, which seems to have received an additional amount of 
 attention from the architect. The walls are very massive, and now 
 afford abundant room for wild plants and bushes, overshadowed by 
 patrician trees. We may almost imagine we are in the gloomy room of 
 him who guarded the approaches in days long past, when security 
 depended more upon stone walls than on “even-handed” justice. A 
 horse-shoe nailed to the church-door continues to sustain the legend 
 that when Henry Duke of Lancaster was quitting it for ever, his steed 
 cast a shoe, which the villagers retained as a memorial, and placed where 
 it is found to-day. 
 
 A few miles farther, but with little to detain the traveller, — unless he 
 linger awhile at Hannington Bridge, and hence obtain a view of the 
 distant church of Highworth, — and we approach Lechlade ; but, within 
 a mile or so of the town, we pause at a place of much interest ; for here 
 the Coin contributes its waters to the Thames, and here terminates that 
 gigantic undertaking — the canal which unites the Severn with the 
 Thames, and which, when steam was thought to be a day-dream of 
 insanity, poured the wealth of many rich districts into the channel that 
 carried it through London to the world. 
 
 The Coin — a river which the angler loves, for its yield of trout is 
 abundant — rises near Withington, in Gloucestershire, and, passing by 
 Foss Bridge, Bibury, Coin St. Aid win, and Fairford — a town rendered 
 famous by the painted windows in its church — runs its course of twenty- 
 three miles, and finishes by joining the Thames. The nearest village, 
 that of Inglesham, has a very ancient church, small and rude in 
 character, and strangely isolated in position, being at a considerable 
 distance from any cluster of houses. 
 
 The Thames and Severn Canal was commenced in 1782, and opened in 
 1789; but so far back as the time of Charles II., the scheme of thus 
 uniting the two great rivers of England had been entertained ; and Pope 
 mentions that to effect this object was a cherished thought of Lord 
 Bathurst, “ when he had finer dreams than ordinary.” 
 
14 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 We now arrive at that point in the Thames where it becomes 
 navigable for boats of burthen ; the canal conveys in barges, each from 
 thirty to sixty tons, the produce of the four quarters of the globe into 
 several parts of England ; the port of Bristol is thus united with that of 
 London ; other canals are combined with this : and so an internal com- 
 munication was formed, the value of which may he readily estimated 
 before the introduction of steam. But the railways have placed this 
 mode of traffic almost in abeyance, — the canals are comparatively idle, 
 and ere long, perhaps, will be altogether deserted. The passage of a 
 boat through the lock is now an event of rare occurrence : it is seldom 
 opened more than once or twice in a week. Greater speed is obtained 
 by the railway, of course, but the chief impediment arises from the cost 
 incurred in passing through the locks and weirs along the Thames. 
 
 The towing-paths between Lechlade and Oxford, in consequence of the 
 causes we have observed upon, are so little disturbed as to be scarcely 
 perceptible: they are for the most part so “ grass-o’ergrown ” as to be 
 distinguished from the meadow only after a careful search. Indeed, all 
 along the Thames bank to Lechlade, and much lower, almost until we 
 approach Oxford, there is everywhere a singular and impressive solitude : 
 of traffic there is little or none ; the fields are almost exclusively pasture- 
 land ; the villages are usually distant ; of gentlemen’s seats, there are 
 few, and these are generally afar off ; the mills are principally situated 
 on “ back-water and but for the pleasant cottages, nearly all of which 
 are peasant hostelries, which, in their immediate relation to the locks 
 and weirs, necessarily stand on the river-bank, with now and then a 
 ferry-house, the whole of the landscape for nearly forty miles from the 
 river-source would seem as completely denuded of population as an 
 African desert. 
 
 We are now at Lechlade, where the Thames is a navigable river, and 
 a sense of loneliness in some degree ceases ; — effectually so, as far as 
 Lechlade is concerned, for, as the reader will perceive, its aspect is an 
 antidote to gloom. Lechlade is a very ancient town. It derives its 
 name from a small river that joins the Thames about a mile below its 
 bridge. The Lech is little more than a streamlet, rising in the parish 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 15 
 
 of Hampnot, in the Cotswold district, and passing by Northleach and 
 Eastleach. The proofs of its antiquity are now limited to its fair and 
 interesting church, dedicated to St. Laurence. It is very plain with- 
 inside, hut stately-looking. It contains no old monuments, with the 
 exception of a brass of a gentleman and lady of the time of Henry VI., 
 
 LECHLADE BRIDGE AND CHURCH. 
 
 and another of a man of the time of Henry VII. Close to the north 
 porch is an interesting relic of the olden time — “ a penance stone,” on 
 which formerly offenders against the discipline of the Church stood 
 enshrouded in a white sheet to do penance. The spire is a pleasant 
 landmark all about. It is now, as it was when Leland wrote, two 
 hundred years ago, “ a praty old toune,” where those who love quiet 
 may be happy. 
 
 A mile from the town — much less to the pedestrian — another 
 and much older bridge is reached — St. John’s Bridge, beside which is 
 “ The Angler’s Inn and here “a hop, step, and jump” will lead from 
 Gloucester into Berkshire, and from Berkshire into Oxfordshire. But 
 
16 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 bridges are now becoming numerous. It is here we first meet a 
 point of greater interest — the First Lock on the Thames. It is rude 
 enough to be picturesque. This lock occurs, however, in a back-water, 
 or rather an artificial cut, the main branch of the river flowing through 
 the arches of St. John’s Bridge, and passing the village of Buscot, 
 where is found the first example of the lock and weir in combination. 
 Buscot has a very plain old church, with no other feature to notice but a 
 Norman chancel arch. The vicarage is a large mansion of the time of 
 William III., and the garden has cut trees and fir bowers in the semi- 
 Dutch taste of that era. We continue our voyage to the pretty villages 
 of Kelmscott and Eaton Hastings, and continue still by the river-side, by 
 green meadows, which, in their solitude, seem to progress unaided by the 
 
 THE FIKST LUCK ON THE THAMES. 
 
 art of man. At Buscot “the river quits the open meads for a more 
 secluded progress, and, having been from Inglesham a boundary of 
 Berkshire, it now leaves for ever its native Gloucestershire, and begins 
 to mark the limits of the county of Oxford.” Our next point of interest 
 is a venerable relic of antiquity — B.vdcot Bridge. This bridge, built 
 entirely of stone, is one of the oldest on the Thames, bearing unmis- 
 takable marks of early construction. 
 
 The towiug-path, which keeps on the Gloucestershire side to Itadcot 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 17 
 
 Bridge, now crosses the bridge to the Berkshire side of the stream, 
 which here divides, and forms an island. 
 
 At Radcot Bridge the tourist has a view on the right of Earingdon 
 Hill, and on the left of Bampton Church spire ; either place may lure 
 him awhile from the river bank — each being distant between one and 
 
 RADCOT BRIDGE. 
 
 two miles. The wood-crowned heights above Earingdon have, indeed, 
 been pleasantly in our sight for a long time along our course. Earingdon 
 is well entitled to a pilgrimage ; although the house is gone which so 
 bravely withstood the army of Cromwell, when the assailants were led to 
 the attack by the owner of the mansion himself — Sir Robert Pye, who 
 had married a daughter of the patriot, John Hampden. Of a far older 
 castle, which “ the favourers of Empress Matilda erected, and King 
 Stephen pull’d down,” there remains nothing but tradition. 
 
 Bampton, in Oxfordshire, on the left bank of the river, but distant 
 about a mile, is a pretty village town, remarkable for its interesting 
 church, which has the singular peculiarity that it has three rectors, who 
 are all presented by the church of Exeter — “to which certain lands 
 were given by Leofric, chaplain to Edward the Confessor, and first bishop 
 of the see, about the year 1046.” 
 
 n 
 
18 
 
 TTIE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 At Itadcot Bridge the Thames is divided — a circumstance of frequent 
 occurrence in the course of the river — a new cut and a “short cut” 
 having been made to facilitate navigation — thus also deepening the 
 channel. The tourist will take the old stream, — which passes under 
 three venerable arches, — although it is considerably choked up with 
 weeds, and closely overhung with branches of the water- willow. 
 
 Our course may be rapid between Itadcot Bridge and New Bridge, 
 although the distance is some ten miles ; for there is no village along its 
 banks, but one small bridge — Tadpole Bridge — and but one ferry. There 
 are, however, several weirs that act as pathways for foot-passengers ; and 
 these weirs break the monotony of the river, afford “rests” to the 
 voyager, and add materially to the picturesque of the scenery — nearly all 
 of them being old and somewhat dilapidated. These are Old Man’s weir, 
 Old Nan’s weir, Bushy weir, Kent’s weir, Ten-foot weir, and Shcfford 
 weir : they occur during the first half of the voyage, Bushy weir being 
 the only one that has the adjunct of a lock. A stone’s throw from the 
 river, a small cluster of houses, scarcely to be called a village, points out 
 the site of ancient Siford, or Shefford ; yet, on this lonely and isolated 
 spot, now apparently far removed from human intercourse, the great 
 Alfred held one of his earliest Parliaments. 
 
 Arrived at New Bridge, we again pause awhile to look around us — 
 to ponder and reflect. The neighbourhood is unchanged since Leland 
 described it as “lying in low meadows, often overflown by rage of 
 rain ; ” a small inn stands on the Berkshire side, and a busy mill on that 
 of Oxfordshire ; in the time of the venerable historian, there was here 
 “a fayre mylle a prow lengthe of;” and it is probable a hostel also 
 entertained the wayfarer. Age has preserved only the bridge, which 
 was “new” six centuries ago, and is now, we believe, the oldest of all 
 that span the river. A short distance below, the Windrush contributes 
 its waters to the Thames, — one of the prettiest and most pleasant of 
 English rivers ; it rises among the hills of Cotswold, near Guiting, and, 
 passing through Burton-on-the- Water, Burford, Minstcr-Lovel, Witney 
 (so long and still famous for its blankets), fertilises and flourishes rich 
 vales, quiet villages, and prosperous towns ; having done its duty, and 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 19 
 
 received grateful homage on its way, it is lost for ever — absorbed into the 
 bosom of the great father. 
 
 Again the locks and weirs pleasantly and profitably bar our progress 
 
 NEW BU1DGE. 
 
 — the principal of these are Langley’s weir and the Ark weir — until we 
 reach the ferry, which continues the road between the village of Cumnor 
 and that of Stanton Harcourt — the former in Berkshire, the latter in 
 Oxfordshire — each being distant about two miles from the river-side, and 
 very happily situated. 
 
 Sometimes the weir is associated with the lock ; but, generally, far up 
 the river, where the stream is neither broad nor deep, the weir stands 
 alone. The weirs are artificial dams, or banks, carried across the river in 
 order to pen up the water to a certain height, for the services of the 
 mill, the fishery, and the navigation. A large range of framework rises 
 from the bed of the river ; this supports a number of flood-gates sliding 
 in grooves, and connected with a sill in the bottom. 
 
 The weir is ever picturesque, for the water is always forcing its way 
 through or over it — sometimes in a huge sheet, forming a striking 
 cascade, at other times dribbling through with a not unpleasing melody. 
 
20 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Ther e is usually a cottage close beside the weir, for the accommodation 
 of the weir-keeper ; generally this is a public-house, where travellers are 
 
 HARTS WEIR. 
 
 “entertained,” pleasantly diversifying the scenery, and not the less so 
 because often rugged and old. 
 
 The tourist, to visit either Cumnor or Stanton Harcourt, must moor 
 his boat at the very pretty ferry of Bablock Hithe. He will turn to the 
 right on his way to Cumnor, and to the left on his road to Stanton Har- 
 court; the latter, especially, will amply recompense him for an hour’s 
 delay in the progress of his voyage. Cumnor has been made famous by 
 the novel of “ Kenilworth,” the scene of which is here principally laid ; 
 but neither history nor tradition do more than supply a few diy bones, 
 to which the great magician gave life. A few vestiges only indicate the 
 site of Cumnor Place ; the “haunted towers ” are down ; a “ Black Bear ” 
 still exists : and it is not likely that Cumnor will ever be without 
 a village hostelry so named. In the church is the tomb of Anthony 
 Forster, who has been condemned to an unenviable notoriety by Scott, 
 but is lauded in his epitaph as a man of honour and integrity. The tomb 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 21 
 
 is an altar tomb within the chancel railing, and has a highly enriched 
 canopy. A brass is inserted with figures of Anthony and his family. 
 
 Stanton Harcourt, the old seat of one of the most ancient and honour- 
 able families of the kingdom, — a family with much to dignify and less to 
 discredit it than perhaps any other of which England boasts, — is but 
 a relic of its former magnificence ; but that relic suffices to indicate its 
 early grandeur, and retains much that cannot fail to create deep and 
 absorbing interest. The Harcourts have possessed this manor of Stanton 
 for more than six hundred years; the original grant was from Henry I., 
 to “ Milicent, the kinswoman of the Queen,” whose daughter Isabel, 
 marrying Poland de Harcourt, the deed of gift was confirmed by the 
 kings Stephen and the second Henry. It ceased to be their dwelling 
 in 1788, and fell gradually to decay, until, in 1770, it was taken down — 
 all except the porter’s lodge, now the residence of the rector, the 
 “kitchen,” and one of the towers — the tower some time the residence of 
 the poet Alexander Pope, and where (as he has himself recorded) he 
 translated the fifth book of Homer. On the ground floor of this tower is 
 a private chapel, the walls still bearing indications of painted story ; the 
 small room on the second floor, to which ascent is gained by a narrow 
 stone staircase, is called, and will ever be called, “Pope’s study;” it 
 commands a fine view, and must have given to the poet that happiest of 
 all enjoyments — quiet in the country. On a pane of glass in one of the 
 windows he wrote an inscription, recording the fact and date that here 
 he “finished the fifth book of Homer.” * 
 
 The church is a fine and very interesting structure : much of it is of 
 Horman architecture : it is among the most beautiful of the many beau- 
 
 * Tliis pane has been removed to Nuneham Courteney, the seat the Harcourts now occupy, a few 
 miles below Oxford, and which we shall n „ „ _ ~ 
 
 Alexander pope 
 
 HOMER 
 
 visit on our voyage from that city down 
 the Thames. The pane measures about 
 six inches by two ; it is of red stained 
 glass. We append a copy of the inscrip- 
 tion, taken from “ Ireland’s Picturesque 
 Views,’’ and which we compared with the 
 original, courteously shown to us by 
 
 uiiguiu.1, uuuneuusiy suowu to us uy 
 
 Mr. Granville Harcourt. Of the authenticity of this rare and curious relic there can be no doubt. 
 
22 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 tiful churches of Oxfordshire. Through one of the doors the men have 
 entrance, while the women enter by another, in accordance with “a 
 custom established there from time immemorial.” The decorations of the 
 interior are of very early date : the oak wood-screen being considered the 
 oldest, of wood, in England. A small chapel contains the dust of many 
 of the Harcourts — a race honoured and esteemed, always and without 
 exception, from the founder of the family to its present representative. 
 It is surely something to be a gentleman of six hundred years ! 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood of Stanton Harcourt are two large 
 stones, popularly known as “ the Devil’s Quoits : ” all earlier writers 
 mention three ; there are now but two, and these are distant nearly a 
 quarter of a mile from each other. They are said to commemorate a 
 battle fought at Bampton, between the British and the Saxons, a.d. 614 ; 
 but this is little more than a village tradition ; they are most probably 
 ancient boundary stones. 
 
 BABLOCK HITHE FEBRY. 
 
 We rejoin the Thames at the Ferry of Bablock Hit he : it is a horse- 
 ferry, as will be observed by the appended engraving. The river is 
 
THE BOOK OE THE THAMES. 
 
 23 
 
 narrow here, and for some distance, above and below, it passes by the 
 sides of low meadows — famous pasture land for cattle, though occasion- 
 ally under water in winter, and when there have been heavy and con- 
 tinuous falls of rain. ¥e keep in view, as we descend the stream, the 
 pleasant hills — those of With am — which environ Oxford, distant about 
 five miles ; hut the distance is doubled to those who make “ the voyage ” 
 in boats — so continually does the river “wind.” 
 
 From Bablock Hithe we encounter no object of interest (excepting the 
 broad reach, and the quaint old “public” at Skinner’s weir) until we 
 arrive at Ensham — or, as it is called in the Ordnance map, Swinford — 
 Bmdge. 
 
 Ensham, Eynesham, or Einsham, was a place of note before the 
 Conquest: so early as 1005 an abbey was founded here by Ethelmar, Earl 
 of Cornwall, in the reign of Ethelred, the king “who signed the 
 
 ENSHAM BRIDGE. 
 
 privilege of liberty with the sign of the Holy Cross ; ” and here he held 
 a general council in 1009. At the Dissolution, the abbey and its site 
 became the property of the Earl of Derby. None of its remains can now 
 be found : a few stones here and there indicate its site. A venerable 
 Cross stands in the market-place, opposite the church ; but its date is not 
 very remote, although time has much defaced its beauty. 
 
24 
 
 THE TiOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Immediately below Ensham Bridge we make the somewhat dangerous 
 passage of the weir, close to which, on the north side, is the site of 
 “ The Burnt Tree,” dear to Oxford citizens as the scene of many a 
 merry picnic. This tree was struck by lightning, and formed for 
 many years a very picturesque object, and an excellent excuse for making 
 a pleasant water excursion. We soon arrive at Canott’s Ham, on the 
 north side, into which many a pheasant strays from the neighbouring 
 wood, and where in winter the snipe and wild duck abound. It is also 
 noticeable as one of the few places on the Thames where the tench is to 
 be found. 
 
 The distance from Ensham to Godstow Bridge is about three miles ; 
 between these bridges we meet tbe Evenlode, a pleasant river, which, 
 rising on the edge of Worcestershire, and passing by Moreton-in-the- 
 Marsh, Charlbury, and Combe, and refreshing Blenheim Bark, here joins 
 the Thames, and proceeds with it to Oxford. All along to the right of 
 the river highway, we keep in sight the wooded heights of Witham — a 
 pleasure enhanced by the numerous windings of the river, which exhibit 
 the hill in every variety of form. This “bit” is the more valuable 
 because of its rarity, as contrasting with the ordinary flatness and same- 
 ness of adjacent lands. 
 
 On the opposite side of the river is seen the tall spire of Cassington 
 Church ; it is in view all the way to Oxford, and is ever a pleasant sight, 
 refreshing to the eye and eheering to the heart. 
 
 Godstow Bridge is highly picturesque ; the river divides here, and 
 at the brink of the older and more shallow channel is a pleasant inn — 
 “ The Trout,” well-known to anglers, but better to the “ Oxford scholar,” 
 as a place accessible to the rower, who here seeks refreshmeut after toil, 
 and finds the homeward voyage with the current an agreeable and easy 
 evening task. At this spot commences the meadow — “Port Meadow,” 
 which, containing 439 acres, reaches almost to the city, whose property 
 it is, and has been from time immemorial, as recorded in Domesday. 
 Every citizen has the right of free pasturage for cattle, or, rather, a right 
 for which he pays the annual tribute of two pence for each horse or cow 
 found there on the day upon which the city authorities meet for inspec- 
 
iODSTOW liUIDGE, 
 

THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 25 
 
 * “ Her crisped lockes like threads of golde 
 Appeared to each mail's sight ; 
 
 Her sparkling eyes, like orient pearles. 
 Did cast a heavenlye light. 
 
 “ The blood within her crystal cheekes 
 Did such a colour drive, 
 
 As though the lillye and the rose 
 For mastership did strive.” 
 
 E 
 
 to the legend, concealed by the king in a bower at "Woodstock from the 
 jealous eyes of his queen, Eleanor. The theme was in high favour with 
 the early minstrels, and historians have not disdained to preserve the 
 memory of her surpassing beauty and her sad fate.* She was, according 
 to Stow, who follows Higden, the monk of Chester, the daughter 
 
 tion — a day of which, of course, no previous notice has been given. It 
 is usually overflowed in winter, and has thus time for repose. 
 
 The story of “Eair Rosamond” has been told in a hundred ways : 
 the “ fair and comely dame ” who was loved by Henry II., was, according 
 
 GOBSTOW BBIUGE. 
 
2G 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 of Walter Lord Clifford, became the “lemman” of Henry II., and 
 died at "Woodstock a.d. 1177, “poisoned by Queen Eleanor, as some 
 thought.” 
 
 Of the “ House of Nunnes” there now exist but a few ivy-clad walls; 
 it was consecrated for Benedictine nuns a.d. 1138, in the presence of 
 King Stephen and his queen ; seven hundred years and more have passed 
 since then, and three hundred years since the last abbess resigned he r 
 home to the physician, Dr. George Owen, to whom Henry VIII. had given 
 
 KLI.nS of godstow mjssjsky. 
 
 it ; still the river rolls by its rugged courtyard and dilapidated gables, 
 recalling to mind the story of the fair and frail beauty who gives the 
 ruin a special place in history. 
 
 At the foot of Witham Hill — the hill that has so cheerful and fair an 
 aspect from all points of the river within a range of several miles, and 
 so agreeably enlivens the view from Oxford — is the ancient village of 
 Witteham, or Wighthham, whore a nunnery existed in the year 690. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 27 
 
 Here the Earls of Abingdon have now their seat, partly built, it is said, 
 with the stones of Godstow. 
 
 Having passed through Godstow Lock, Oxford City comes in sight ; the 
 village of Wolvercot is passed, but that of Binsey claims a moment’s 
 thought. The voyager will pause at Binsey weir, for here a charming 
 view is obtained of ancient and venerable Oxford — its pinnacles, and 
 towers, and church spires rising proudly above surrounding domiciles. 
 Nowhere do we obtain a more striking view, and here especially do we 
 recall the expressive lines of the poet : — 
 
 “ Like a rich gem, in circling gold enshrined, 
 
 Where Isis’ waters wind 
 Along the sweetest shore 
 That ever felt fair culture’s hands. 
 
 Or spring’s embroidered mantle wore — 
 
 Lo! where majestic Oxford stands.” 
 
 We step ashore awhile to visit the little village, and to walk to its 
 church, half a mile or so distant from the river-hank. At Binsey, 
 a.d. 730, the holy virgin Frideswide had a chapel constructed of 
 “ wallyns and rough-hewn timber ; ” hither were sent of her nuns “ the 
 most stubborn sort,” to he confined in a dark room, and to be deprived of 
 their usual repast ; and here, too, was the famous well of St. Margaret, 
 which St. Frideswide, “by her prayers, caused to be opened;” here 
 came the people to ease their burthened souls, and to he rid of their 
 diseases; consequently the adjoining village of Seckworth became a large 
 town, containing twenty-four inns, — the dwellings chiefly of the priests 
 appointed by the Prior of Binsey to confess and absolve the penitents. 
 Binsey has now but a dozen poor houses ; its church has a heart-broken 
 look ; and of the well there is but an indication — a large earth-mound 
 in a corner of the graveyard completely dried up, there being no sign 
 of water ; the spring is lost ; and so, indeed, is its memory — for we 
 inquired in vain among the neighbouring peasantry for St. Margaret’s 
 Well, of which they had heard and knew nothing — sic transit ! 
 
 The ancient farm of Medley, which adjoins Binsey weir, is still a farm, 
 as it was before the Norman conquest. 
 
 Shortly before Oxford is reached, at a point called the Four Streams, 
 
28 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 the river separates into two channels, its “ divided flood” meeting again 
 just below the city, at the foot of Folly Bridge, at the commencement of 
 Christ Church meadow. Our course takes us by the right-hand stream, 
 the only navigable one, under a bridge on the high road leading from 
 Oxford to the west — a road which numbers seven bridges within a mile, 
 and illustrates somewhat expensively the divided character of the Thames 
 at this part of its course. 
 
 A cluster of old houses points out the site of Osney ; we first pass, 
 however, through Osney Lock, one of the most picturesque locks on the 
 river. 
 
 Osney, or Ouseney, Abbey, once rivalled in extent and architectural 
 beauty the grandest of the colleges that now adorn and dignify the proud 
 city. It was “ seated on a flat or low ground, but for the grove, and 
 trees, and rivulets that encompassed it not a little pleasant.” It received 
 its first erection in 1129, by the donation of Robert D’Oyly, at the instance 
 of his wife Edith ; and the legend is, that often, when walking out of 
 Oxford Castle by the river-side, she observed magpies chattering on a 
 certain tree, “ as it wer to speke to her ;” much marvelling at this, she 
 asked of her confessor the meaning thereof, who told her they were not 
 pies, but so many poor souls in purgatory, who were complaining to her, 
 and entreating of her some good. Thereupon, and for their relief, she 
 procured the building of the abbey where the tree stood ; her “confessor,” 
 of course, becoming its abbot. During after-times, it was enriched by 
 other donors, until it became “ one of the first ornaments and wonders of 
 this place, or nation;” to the great hall would often come, as guests, 
 kings, prelates, and nobles of the first rank ; whatever heart could wish 
 the monks enjoyed, “by means of the generosity of their founders and 
 succeeding benefactors;” the church was adorned by the gifts of the 
 pious — all who contributed something towards the building being en- 
 titled to “forty days’ indulgence and forgiveness from sin” — hence it 
 became “ the envy of other religious houses in England and beyond sea;” 
 of architecture exquisite and full of variety ; with hangings of most 
 excellent work, windows of famous painting ; with pillars elegant and 
 uniform, each bearing a statue ; with wonderful variety of carvings and 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 29 
 
 paintings, ‘ ‘ that not only fed the eye with delight, but struck the spec- 
 tator with surprise and admiration.” Of this grand and glorious work 
 there is now not one stone remaining upon another; “it suffered not a 
 little from the Rump Parliament,” — Time did the rest, and— 
 
 Of it there now remains no memory, 
 Nor any little monument to see.” 
 
 The abbots of Osney were peers of parliament. The last abbot was 
 Robert King, who, in 1539, “surrendered” the abbey to Henry VIII. — 
 who, in 1542, made it the see of a bishop, assigning Gloucester Hall, now 
 Worcester College, Oxford, for his residence. In 1546 the episcopal 
 chair was transferred to the conventual church of St. Frideswide, which 
 was then constituted the cathedral of the see, and called Christ Church, 
 and the last abbot and only bishop of Osney became the first bishop of 
 Oxford. Of Dr. King there is a portrait in the library at Christ Church, 
 the background of which is a picture of the abbey. Others of its trea- 
 sures are also in that college — “Old Tom,” the famous Oxford bell, 
 being one of them. Standing upon the site it occupied in the days of 
 its power and grandeur, and searching in vain for a few stones to indicate 
 its splendour, the mind is absolutely forced to ponder and reflect. 
 
 Although, no doubt, much was gained to religion and liberty by the 
 suppression of monasteries, and we may rejoice that we no longer hear 
 in our “schools” 
 
 “ The harsh jargon of contentious monks,” 
 
 something was surely lost of intellectual supremacy. Osney shared the 
 fate of so many wealthy establishments, which the cupidity, and not the 
 piety, of Henry VIII. caused him to suppress. Although the friaries 
 and the lesser monasteries were destroyed by law, the more powerful 
 establishments were ruined by “surrender.” By threats, cajolery, or 
 bribery, the abbacies came into the king’s hands, or under his control. 
 Untractable abbots were summarily disposed of by easily sustained 
 charges of high-treason, and the monks were “ sent adrift to dig, or beg, 
 or starve.” Osney revived somewhat in the days of Queen Mary, 
 
30 
 
 THE BOOK OF TI1E THAMES. 
 
 masses were again chanted within its walls ; hut during the Common- 
 wealth its ruin was completed, and of its remains there is now nothing 
 hut the site, which the Thames waters as freely and abundantly as it did 
 three centuries ago. 
 
 On the current which runs to the left are the few indications which 
 still exist to point out the locality of another abbey — that of Rowley. 
 Rowley Abbey, “sometime seated within pleasant groves, and environed 
 within clear streams,” with its twenty-one elm-trees, and a tree by 
 itself, to represent the abbot and the number of its monks, was situated 
 on this branch of the river ; its former splendour is, however, indicated 
 only by a doorway, and a wall which now encloses part of the North- 
 Western Railway. 
 
 The left stream is the course that is most picturesque ; hut there is no 
 exit, as the current is arrested to turn the mill which still works there, 
 where, by itself and its predecessors, it has worked since the castle first 
 reared its strong and stately towers and battlements by the river’s side ; 
 indeed, there is evidence that the miller had precedence of the chatelain. 
 We pass under a railway bridge, close to the opening of the Oxford and 
 Coventry Canal ; and, at the entrance to the city on this side, as we near 
 one of the most ancient of its bridges — Hithe, or Hythe, Bridge — we 
 observe a small cluster of rude and primitive houses, the small dwellings 
 of a race of fishermen, who have followed that calling from father to son, 
 in unbroken succession, for several hundred years. 
 
 Of Oxford Castle there remains only a solitary tower; hut the 
 mound, planted with evergreens, still rises at its northern side. As will 
 be seen in our engraving, the old mill and its dependent dwellings are 
 in harmony with the old walls with which they have been so long asso- 
 ciated, and are among the picturesque “bits” of the river. The castle 
 was begun by Robert lt’Oyly, in 1071, and finished in 1073, “ to keep 
 in order the neighbouring parts, especially the city of Oxford, which gave 
 great affronts and proved troublesome to King William.” It was famous 
 from that time to the Civil Wars, when it had lost much of its strength 
 and value ; afterwards it gradually became a ruin, which ranks among 
 the most interesting relics of the venerable city. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 31 
 
 “ Time’s gradual touch 
 Has moulded into beauty many a tower, 
 
 Which, when it frowned with all its battlements, 
 
 Was only terrible.” 
 
 The old castle could tell many strange stories from its palmy days, 
 immediately following the Conquest, to the commencement of the present 
 century, when this tower was the jail of the county. Perhaps the most 
 remarkable of its incidents is that which relates to the Empress Maud, 
 who, being besieged there by the army of King Stephen, contrived to 
 
 OXFORD CASTLE. 
 
 escape thence into Abingdon. The river was frozen over, and, accom- 
 panied by three trusty knights, all clad in ghostly white, she issued from 
 its postern gate at dead midnight, and, crossing the ice, passed the sen- 
 tinels of the enemy unobserved. 
 
 There is little doubt, however, that a castle, a residence of some kind 
 or other, existed at Oxford long prior to the Conquest, and, probably, on 
 
32 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 the site which the castle now occupies, and also that it was a royal 
 dwelling, in which Offa and Alfred and his sons resided ; indeed, many 
 Saxon remains have been from time to time discovered by digging in the 
 immediate neighbourhood, and it is clearly ascertained by ancient records 
 that a tower was standing in the time of King Ethelred. 
 
 Leaving to the left the rugged island, once the site of Osncy, and 
 now covered with houses of a low grade, with rough gardens, enclosed 
 by dilapidated walls or broken palisades, and to the right the fertile 
 meadows, around which winds the ancient bed of the river, we arrive 
 at Folly Bridge, * but must previously pass through a lock, the river 
 here having a fall of about three feet. At the extremity of the little 
 
 island we have described, was 
 the famous tower with which 
 for centuries was associated 
 the once dreaded, but now 
 venerated, name of Friar 
 Bacon. 
 
 “ Friar Bacox’s Study,” 
 which formerly stood on this 
 bridge, “near the end next 
 the city,” was taken down 
 in the year 1779; and the 
 prophecy thus failed, that 
 “when a man more learned 
 than he passed under it the 
 tower would fall,” — hence 
 the old warning, when a youth 
 was sent to the University, 
 “ Beware of walking near the 
 Friar’s Tower !” It is traditionally narrated that to this tower the great 
 Roger Bacon, one of the grandest luminaries of the middle ages, used to 
 resort at night “to take the altitude and distance of the stars.” Popular 
 
 * The bridge at which the several branches of the Thames uuito was anciently called Grand Rout 
 and South Bridge ; it is now named “ Folly Bridge.” 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 33 
 
 prejudice accused him of practising magic, and, according to the legend, 
 he was cited to Eome on this charge by the general of his order (he was 
 a Franciscan friar) ; hut having cleared himself, he was sent hack to 
 England. The tower was said to have been built in Xing Stephen’s 
 time, as “ a Pharos or high watch-tower for the defence of the city.” 
 
 We have been passing for some time through the lower parts and the 
 outer side of Oxford ; for these picturesque houses and gardens that skirt 
 the hank of the river are its lanes and alleys. Into Oxford, however, it 
 is not our design to enter with a view to describe the city ; to do so at all 
 adequately is impossible within the space to which we are limited. The 
 visitor will readily lay his hand on one of the many hooks in which it is 
 illustrated largely and described fully. 
 
 We will only, therefore, ask the reader to “step” with us into Oxford 
 before we rejoin the river, and resume our voyage between its hanks.* 
 Its antiquity (according to legendary lore) is as remote as that of any 
 existing English city. The earlier chroniclers, in the absence of fact, 
 had recourse to fiction ; and finding the early history "of the city 
 depended on tradition only, gave these traditions a lasting form in 
 monkish history. Of these the most amusing, but the most fanciful, 
 is the work of Geoffrey of Monmouth, an ecclesiastic who lived in the 
 twelfth century, and whose industry and credulity were both equally 
 remarkable. He declares Oxford to have been originally built one 
 thousand and nine years before Christ, by Memphric, King of the 
 Britons, when it was called Caer-Memphricii, or, as some write it, 
 Memphritii, “ upon the ryver Temes,” and therefore “ deserves to be 
 reckoned not only amongst the first and most ancient cities of Britain, 
 hut of all Europe and of the world.” More correct chroniclers come 
 to our aid, and we know from authentic history that the Saxons 
 “ much affected this city with hurt.” It was burnt by the Danes, and 
 suffered in a hundred ways during the wars and civil contests that 
 followed — from the Conquest to the struggles of Charles I. and the 
 Parliament. 
 
 * The distance from london to Oxford by water is understood to be 116| miles; by land it is 52_ 
 “ The Oarsman’s Guide ” calculates the water distance at 115j miles. 
 
 F 
 
34 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 At the Conquest the citizens numbered twelve hundred. It is stated 
 in Domesday Book that in Oxeneford “ arc two hundred and forty-three 
 houses, as well within as without the wall, that pay or yield geld ; and 
 five hundred and twenty-two more, at least, which are so wasted and 
 destroyed that they cannot pay geld.”* 
 
 Commentators differ, without any reason, as to the derivation of the 
 name. There can be no doubt that Oxenford, by which it was called 
 in early time, means neither more nor less than a ford for oxen ; much 
 useless controversy has been expended on this point, which might, it 
 would seem, be at once determined by common sense ; Domesday, the 
 old Saxon chronicles, and the city seals, f confirm the Ford. It was 
 called Oxford probably from the king’s oxen being driven thither (for 
 it was a royal demesne under the care of a bailiff) from the royal forests, 
 in the summer, to pasture on the luxuriant grasses of the meadows, 
 which were flooded and inaccessible to them in winter. In the time 
 of Harold the walls were so ruinous that the rents of several houses 
 were allotted for their repair. It is certain that it was a walled town 
 in the time of the Confessor : King Alfred is stated, on very suspicious 
 authority, to have set his halls infra muros Oxonice ; and it is said that 
 long previously the city had both walls and gates. Of these walls there 
 are several interesting remains, the best preserved being in the gardens 
 of Kew College. The Mayor and Aldermen, accompanied by the city 
 officers, and preceded by the beautiful silver-gilt mace of Charles II., 
 have an annual ceremony of going in procession to trace these walls, and 
 demanding the right of entry into any garden or house that occupies the 
 site of any portion of them. This perambulation still bears the title of 
 “ the reparation view,” and was doubtless instituted for the purpose of 
 seeing that the walls were kept in good repair. It forms, at the present 
 
 * Domesday Book is the most important and valuable monument of its kind possessed by any 
 nation. It was compiled under the direction of William the Conqueror, and in accordance with the 
 resolution passed at the council held in Gloucester, A.D. 1085. It contains a survey of all England, and 
 minutely specifies the extent of lands in every county, and who they are held by. It also gives the 
 various tenures under which they are held, and notes whether they are meadow, pasture, or woody dis- 
 tricts. In some instances it gives the number of persons living on them, and notes if they be bond or 
 free. To the historian and topographer this work is invaluable ; and it aids us in the darker times of 
 Saxon rule, by incidentally narrating its grants. 
 
 t The old city seal represents an ox crossing a ford. 
 
THE BOOK OE THE THAMES. 35 
 
 time, an interesting memorial of the boundaries of the “old citie within 
 the walles.” The moat and trenches may be still accurately traced,* and 
 are generally clothed with ivy — 
 
 “ To gild destruction with n smile, 
 
 And beautify decay.” 
 
 It is to the University, however, that Oxford mainly owes its fame ; 
 for centuries it has been — 
 
 “ That faire citie, wherein make abode 
 So many learned impes, that shoote abrode, 
 
 And with their branches spreade all Brittany.” 
 
 Walking through its lanes, art d courts, and streets, and reminded at 
 every turn of the sacredness of its history, associated with so much that 
 is great and good — of learning, piety, patriotism, and true courage — 
 the enthusiast is almost tempted to cast his shoes from off his feet, for 
 the ground on which he treads is holy : while it is impossible for the 
 mind least instructed or inspired to withhold homage, or to avoid ex- 
 claiming with the poet — 
 
 “ Ye spires of Oxford 1 domes and towers ! 
 
 Gardens and groves ! Your presence overpowers 
 The soberness of reason.” 
 
 The High Street, from the bridge which crosses the Cherwell — the 
 Botanic Gardens on the left, and the fair and honoured college, Magdalen, 
 on the right — to the Carfax Church, at its extremity, is said to be the 
 most beautiful street in Europe ; and, surely, with truth, for the very 
 inequalities of the later-built houses aid the picturesque ; while, on 
 either side, are the interesting and time-honoured structures — University 
 College, Queen’s College, All Souls’ College, and the richly-adorned 
 Church of St. Mary ; down narrow alleys glimpses are caught, at brief 
 intervals, of New College, St. Peter’s Church, St. Mary’s Hall, Oriel 
 College, of Corpus, also, and Brazen Nose, the Hadcliffe and Bodleian 
 Libraries, “the Schools,” Lincoln College, and the great college, Christ 
 Church, in St. Aldate’s. 
 
 * The Corporation claim a right to refreshment at certain places on the route,— commencing with 
 crawfish and sops in ale at the starting-point, a house in St. Aldate Street, and ending with “ Canary 
 wine ” at the lodgings of the President of Corpus. 
 
36 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Without dating the commencement of learning in Oxford so far back 
 as did Geoffrey of Monmouth — a thousand years before the commence- 
 ment of the Christian era — it is asserted that in the ninth century it had 
 become the fountain whence issued many learned clerks, and that among 
 the earliest to endow it was the king par excellence — King Alfred,* 
 “ whose memory shall be always sweeter than honey.” The erection of 
 colleges, or houses set apart for students, and for their special accommo- 
 dation, did not, however, commence until the middle of the thirteenth 
 century — students having been previously lodged in various houses of 
 the town. Merton College, Balliol College, and University College, were 
 founded about the same time, between the years 1264 and 1300 ; Exeter 
 College, Oriel College, Queen’s College, and New College, between 1314 
 and 1386; Lincoln College, All Souls’ College, and Magdalen College, 
 between the years 1430 and 1460; Brazen Nose College, Corpus Christi 
 College, and Christ Church, between the years 1507 and 1532; St. 
 John’s College, Trinity College, Jesus’ College, and Wadham College, 
 between the years 1555 and 1610; Pembroke College in 1620; and 
 Worcester College in 1714. There are thus in Oxford nineteen colleges, 
 and five “ Halls,” which differ from the colleges only in some unessential 
 forms and privileges. These halls arc St. Alban, St. Edmund, St. Mary, 
 New Inn Hall, and Magdalen Hall. 
 
 Of ancient structures — made venerable by time and holy by uses — 
 Oxford has, of course, many besides her colleges ; the most interesting of 
 these are the several parish churches, all of them containing venerable 
 relics of times long gone by. Two or three days may be profitably spent 
 in visiting these parish churches. The Church of St. Peter’s in the East 
 
 # The curious little silver penny here engraved, from the rare original in the Bodleian Library, was 
 
 coined by King Alfred in the city of Oxford. 
 The letters exhibit all that irregularity which 
 characterises the early Saxon coinage of Eng- 
 land, many of them being upside down, while 
 the O looks more like an ornament than a letter. 
 On one side is the king’s name, .ELFRED, and 
 above and below it the name of the town, spelt 
 ORSNAFORDA. The other side contains the 
 name of the *‘moneyei\” or person who struck 
 the coin. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 37 
 
 “ lays claim to a higher antiquity than that of almost any other 
 ecclesiastical edifice in England : ” that of St. Mary the Virgin stands 
 on the site of an ancient chapel of King Alfred ; it contains a fine 
 monument by Elaxman to the memory of Sir William Jones. In St. 
 Michael’s Church maybe observed “seven or eight different periods of 
 construction, though nearly the whole of it is of considerable antiquity,” 
 the tower being of the eleventh century. All Saints’ Church dates no 
 longer ago than 1708, but it occupies the site of one which flourished 
 early in the twelfth century. Of St. Martin’s, or Carfax, Church, dedi- 
 cated to the famous Bishop of Tours, the foundation is of great antiquity 
 — according to Anthony Wood, “beyond all record;” the old tower 
 remains, and is said to have been lowered by command of Edward III., 
 “because upon the complaints of the scholars, the townsmen would 
 in time of combat with them retire there, as to their castle, and from 
 thence gall and annoy them with arrows and stones.” St. Peter le Baily 
 was rebuilt in 1740, on the site of a church that is “beyond the reach of 
 any records,” and which fell down in 1726. Of St. Aldate’s Church the 
 foundation is very remote ; it is supposed to have been British before the 
 settlement of the Saxons or the Danes, the saint whose name it bears 
 being a Briton, who lived about 450. Speed says it was founded or 
 restored, probably rebuilt of stone, being previously of wood, in 1004. 
 “ The present fabric is composed of many different styles and dates, but is 
 on the whole a venerable structure, deriving additional interest from the 
 comparatively perfect state in which it remains, and the satisfactory 
 account that has been preserved of most parts of the building.” St. Ebbe’s 
 Church is dedicated to one of the Saxon saints, Ebba, daughter of Ethelfred, 
 King of Northumberland, who died 685. It was rebuilt 1814, the only 
 remaining part of the old building being the tower, which is of great 
 antiquity, being built of rubble, very massive, and having no staircase. 
 St. Mary Magdalen is said to have been erected before the Norman 
 Conquest ; but of the original church the only portion remaining at all 
 perfect is a semicircular arch, with the zigzag mouldings, which divided 
 the nave from the chancel. The Church of St. Giles is among the most 
 interesting churches of the city ; its nave, chancel, and aisles are of fine 
 
38 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 architectural character. The Church of Holywell, that of St. Clement, 
 and that of St. Thomas, though less striking and important than those 
 previously referred to, have each their peculiar attractions, and, as will 
 be readily supposed, the visitor to these interesting churches will be 
 recompensed in many ways; they are crowded with “ memorials,” all of 
 which speak eloquently of the past, and are suggestive of thoughts in 
 keeping with the impressive solemnity of the venerable city. In several 
 of the streets, also, there are singular relics of old houses. 
 
 We have but named the several colleges and public structures which 
 have made and make Oxford famous throughout the world ; and give to 
 it importance next to London, and interest second only to that of regal 
 Windsor : — 
 
 “ Leaving us heirs to amplest heritages 
 Of all the best thoughts of the greatest sages, 
 
 And giving tongues unto the silent dead.” 
 
 The visitor who goes through and about them will have days of enjoy- 
 ment, not alone because of “ old renown,” and the memories associated 
 with every step he treads, but as the great intellectual hereafter of the 
 nation. The names that will occur to him are those of England’s 
 loftiest worthies: here, apart “ from the bustle of resort,” they girded on 
 their armour to battle against ignorance, superstition, infidelity ; here, 
 great men of the past, who best “ penned or uttered wisdom ” — 
 
 “ Their spirits, troubled with tumultuous hope, 
 
 Toil’d with futurity ” — 
 
 drank deep of that holy fountain which gave them strength for life. 
 Here the aristocracy have their full share of glory ; but here the people 
 have just right to pride ; — for high among the highest of their country’s 
 benefactors are, and ever have been, those who “ achieved greatness,” 
 unaided and alone. Rare delight, and ample food for thought, will he 
 obtain who wanders through the streets — where Wolsey walked in 
 triumph, and Shakspcrc housed in obseuiity ; where Laud and Wesley 
 taught ; where liberty inspired Hampden ; where Wicliff planned for his 
 country freedom of conscience, achieved and kept ; where was the chief 
 battle-field of that great contest which threw from England an intolerable 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 39 
 
 burthen ; whence the Reformation spread its light ; and where perished 
 the great three, who, by their deaths, “lit such a candle in England as, 
 by God’s grace, hath never since been put out.” 
 
 Here have gathered, fraternised, or fought, great men — from the age 
 of Alfred to the reign of Victoria ; men hostile in politics, opposed in 
 religion, often zealous over much, but earnest, faithful, and unflinching ; 
 however separated by opinion, all labouring in the great cause of human 
 progress — differing only as “one star differeth from another star in 
 glory 
 
 their names 
 
 In Fame’s eternal volume live for aye ! ” 
 
 But chiefly the visitor will pause and ponder beside the iron cross which, 
 in the middle of a causeway, marks the spot where bigotry consumed 
 three prelates — Cranmer, Latimer, and Ridley ; and he will thence make 
 pilgrimage to the “Martyrs’ Memorial,” which a grateful posterity raised 
 as a perpetual reminder that by their heroic deaths they gave vigorous 
 life to that purer faith, which, far above all other things — kings, princi- 
 palities, and powers — makes England a land of liberty. 
 
 It is, indeed, impossible to exaggerate the claims to consideration of 
 stately and learned Oxford ; such is its solemn and impressive grandeur, 
 that even in walking its streets laughter seems desecration, and haste 
 unnatural. Its very atmosphere is a lure to study ; the “ mossy vest 
 of time ” is everywhere instructive ; the crumblings of its ancient walls 
 tempt to thoughtful repose : even the waters of the Thames are calmer 
 here than elsewhere ; while its many spires are closely, and in true glory, 
 linked in happy association with a memorable past : — 
 
 “ Amid tli' august arid never dying light 
 Of constellated spirits, who have gained 
 A nanfe in heaven by power of heavenly deeds.” 
 
 In cloisters pale, in venerable halls, beneath stately porticoes, in silent 
 galleries, in sombre quadrangles, by solemn altars, in neatly-trimmed 
 gardens, in umbrageous walks, — the students think and work : its rare 
 libraries, enriched by the wisdom of ages ; its large assemblages of Art- 
 wonders; its vast resources of Science, — are their daily teachers. Lessons 
 
40 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Bridge, bid adieu to the fair city, quoting, as we enter our boat, the 
 quaint and homely couplet of the old poet : — 
 
 “ He that hath Oxford seen, for beauty, grace, 
 
 And healthiness© ne’er saw a better place.” 
 
 Folly Bridge was anciently called Grand Pont. Its modern name 
 (modem, although dating back 200 years) is derived from the following 
 
 still more valuable are taught by tombs and tablets in their chapel courts ; 
 by quaint windows, that let in “religious light; ” and by statues of pious 
 founders and canonised saints, still speaking from niches they have 
 occupied for centuries, giving emphasis to that memorable text, more 
 impressive here than elsewhere, commingling piety with loyalty — “Fear 
 God ! Honour the king ! ” Move where we will in this fair and holy 
 city, we think and feel as of a higher and a better race than the world’s 
 ordinary denizens ; while 
 
 “ The attentive mind, 
 
 By this hamionious action on her powers, 
 
 Becomes herself harmonious.” 
 
 We must resume our course ; and, making our way again to Folly 
 
FROM THE FOLLY I! RIDGE, OXFORD. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 41 
 
 circumstance. The tower, which stood on the bridge, and had been so 
 long known as “ Friar Bacon’s Study,” being much dilapidated, the city 
 leased it to a citizen named “Welcome,” who repaired the lower part, 
 and added to it a story, which appears in our engraving. This was 
 called by the neighbours “Welcome’s Folly;” and thus the bridge 
 acquired its new title of “Folly Bridge.” The present bridge was built 
 in 1825-7 : the architect was Ebenezer Perry. The first erection of a 
 bridge on this spot is “beyond all authentic record;” but it is the opinion 
 of our best antiquaries that here a bridge existed so early as the Saxon 
 times. 
 
 We are below Folly Bridge, having passed through the lock, which, 
 as we have intimated, terminates the right branch of the river : there 
 is a fall here of about three feet. The bridge is seen in the annexed 
 view. A tavern, situate on a sort of quay, and a block of warehouses, 
 sufficiently mark the locality, but the latter unfortunately interrupts 
 the passage into the street from the beautiful grounds of Christ Church. 
 Christ Church Meadow, with its embowered “walks,” has been famous 
 for ages ; it is the public promenade ; and necessarily here, or at the 
 quay alluded to, boats are always numerous, for this is almost the only 
 place in the vicinity in which there are conveniences for boating. 
 
 At the termination of Christ Church Meadow occurs the junction of 
 the Cherwell and the Thames : the river so dear to Alma Mater has its 
 source in the Arbury Hills, near Eaventry, in Northamptonshire : it 
 enters Oxfordshire near Claydon, flows past the town of Banbury, 
 through Islip and several other villages, runs its course of about forty 
 miles (but nowhere navigable), and on its arrival at Oxford surrounds an 
 island appertaining to Magdalen College (where it is crossed by a bridge 
 of great beauty), running beside “Addison’s Walk,” waters the banks 
 of the Botanic Garden, passing by the side of Christ Church Meadow 
 and its tree-embowered walks, and loses itself in the great river in 
 whose company it journeys to the sea. Our noble old topographer, 
 Camden, takes the opportunity of this locality for an eloquent praise of 
 the city in his “ Britannia.” He says, “Where Cherwell is confluent 
 with Isis, and pleasant aits, or islets, lye dispersed by the sundry 
 
 G 
 
42 
 
 THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 dissevering of waters, there the most famous University of Oxford sheweth 
 itself aloft in a champion plaine. Oxford, I say, our most noble Athens, 
 the muses-seate, and one of England’s stays — nay, the sun, the eye, and 
 the soul thereof, from whence religion, civility, and learning, are spread 
 most plenteously into all parts of the realm. A fair and goodly city, 
 
 JUNCTION OF THE CHEBVVELL ANH THE THAMES. 
 
 whether a man respect the seemly beauty of private houses, or the stately 
 magnificence of public buildings, together with the wholesome site or 
 pleasant prospect thereof. Whence it came to pass that of this situation 
 it was (as writers record) in ancient times called Bellositum 
 
 The current carries us gently to Ifiley lock, distant about two miles — 
 rich flat meadows on either side ; but the landscape receiving grace and 
 beauty from the hills of Shotover, Bagley Wood, and the slope on which 
 stands the fine and very venerable church. The voyager, however, will 
 often look back, for gradually, as we remove from the city, the view gains 
 in interest ; the lower houses disappear, while towers, and domes, and 
 spires of churches, and colleges rise above the trees, standing out in high 
 relief, backed by the sky. Iffley is justly considered “one of the finest 
 
 * Camden’s “Britannia,” as translated by Holland, 1637. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
DOORWAY: 1FLKY CHURCH 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 43 
 
 and most beautiful examples in England of an Anglo-Norman parochial 
 church.” It consists of a nave and chancel divided by a tower, forming, 
 indeed, “ an interesting school of ancient architecture,” affording a series 
 of examples of almost every age and style, and being “ accepted ” as high 
 and pure “ authority ” by church architects. 
 
 The date of its foundation is probably as far back as the reign of King 
 Stephen, when it was built by the monks of Kenilworth ; authentic 
 
 1FFLEY CHUKCH. 
 
 records prove it to have been in existence at the end of the twelfth 
 century ; it has endured with very little change from that far-off period' 
 to this ; and many of its elaborate and beautiful decorations, exterior as 
 well as interior, are now as perfect as they were when they left the hands 
 of the sculptor-artizan. 
 
 The churchyard contains an aged yew-tree — so aged that no stretch of 
 fancy is required to believe it was planted when the first stone of the 
 sacred structure was laid.* The rectory is in admirable keeping with 
 
 * It has been generally stated that yew-trees were planted near churches to supply bow-staves for 
 archers, at a time when archery was much practised, and enforced by law. But the custom is now 
 believed to be much older, and to be a relic of paganism ; these trees, being sacred to the dead from a 
 very early period, and therefore especially venerated by the Druids, were adopted by the Romans and 
 Saxons ; hence “ the church was brought to the tree, and not the tree to the church,” for the eminent 
 botanist, De Candolle, notes that the yews at Fountains andCrowhurst are 1,200 years old, while that at 
 Fortingale, in Scotland, is believed to be 1,400 years of age. 
 
44 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 the church, although of a much later date: also at the adjacent weir is 
 a venerable mill, the successor of that which flourished here so far back 
 as the time of the first Edward. 
 
 There are consequently few places on the hanks of the Thames with 
 so many attractions for the tourist, and its value is enhanced by imme- 
 diate vicinage to Oxford. The river between Oxford and Iffley is very 
 deep, and there are dangerous eddies, where bathers have been sacrificed. 
 It is shallower towards Nuneham ; from whence it is much deeper in its 
 course to Abingdon. 
 
 Resuming our voyage, we pass through Sandford lock, — one of the 
 most picturesque of the many combinations of lock, weir, and mill, — 
 keeping in view the mansion of Nuneham Courtenay, which crowns the 
 summit of the nearest hill. 
 
 The fine trees of Nuneham hang luxuriantly over the river — it is a 
 perfect wealth of foliage piled on the rising banks. Such scenery con- 
 tinues until we reach the modern railway bridge, when, on the right 
 bank of the stream, Radley House is descried ; another turn of the 
 river, past this demesne, and the spire of Abingdon comes in view. 
 Between Nuneham Courtenay and Abingdon the river winds so much, 
 that when we reach this ancient town we are nearly opposite to Oxford, 
 distant about six miles. 
 
 About half a mile from Abingdon the Thames divides into two 
 paTts, the eastern portion leaving the main stream at right angles, and 
 going to Culham Bridge, and the western going to Abingdon ; the 
 eastern part was the navigable stream from Oxford to London in the 
 time of James I., and the old lock is still remaining, but blocked 
 up. We have already quoted an extract from “ The Chronicon ” 
 relating to the eastern part ; and the following, relating to the western, 
 occurs at the commencement of the volume: — “ Mons Abbendone ad 
 septeutrionalem plagam Tamese fluvii, ubi praetermeat pontem Oxene- 
 fordis urbis situs est ; a quo monasterio non longe posito idem nomen 
 inditum.” 
 
 Abingdon is one of the most ancient towns of the kingdom ; it stands 
 near the junction of the little river Ocke (which rises in the Yale of 
 
rum ,\:-rui 
 

THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 45 
 
 White Horse)* with the Thames, and although now a place of small 
 importance, has played a conspicuous part in many of the most stirring 
 events of British history. A legendary tale thus describes its origin : — 
 “ At a time when the wretched pagan Hengist basely murdered 460 
 
 “ - A 
 
 DISTANT VIEW OF ABINGDON CHURCH. 
 
 noblemen and barons at Stonehengest, or Stonehenge, Aben, a noble- 
 man’s son, escaped into a wood, on the south side of Oxfordshire, 
 where, leading a most holy life, the inhabitants of the country flocking 
 to him to hear the word of God, built him a dwelling-house and a 
 chapel in honour of the Holy Virgin ; but he, disliking their resort, 
 stole away to Ireland, and from him the place where he dwelt is called 
 Abingdon. j- It is hardly necessary to state that this derivation is 
 
 incorrect, and that the name is purely Anglo-Saxon. We give the 
 legend as an example of the fanciful interpolations in early history by 
 the elder chroniclers. 
 
 The old hospital at Abingdon is founded on the site of the monastery 
 dedicated to the Holy Cross and St. Helena, by Cisa, sister of the king 
 of the West Saxons, in the seventh century : this religious founda- 
 
 * This vale takes its name from an enormous representation of a horse cut in the side of the chalk 
 hills. This singular figure has existed there from time immemorial. It is rude in character; but, 
 inasmuch as that character is precisely similar to the figures of horses on ancient British coins, it is 
 believed to be equally ancient. It has long been the custom of the peasantry to clear it of weeds, and 
 generally to restore it, at certain seasons of the year. 
 
 t “ Abingdone” (says Leland in his “Itinerary”) “stands on the right side of the Isis, and was of 
 very old time called Seukesham, since Abendune.” 
 
46 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 tion having gone to decay, a hospital -was erected in its place by a 
 rich merchant, in the reign of Henry V., named Geoffry Barbour : in 
 the reign of Henry A III. this and other charitable institutions in con- 
 nection with the church were forfeited to the crown ; and the Abbot of 
 Abingdon, being one of the first to acknowledge the king’s supremacy, 
 was rewarded for such subserviency by the gift of the Manor of 
 Cumnor, and a pension of £200 a year for his life. Sir John Mason, 
 
 in the reign of Edward VI., 
 bestirred himself to restore the 
 charity, and in the year 1553 
 it was re-endowed, and named 
 Christ Hospital. It then ac- 
 commodated thirteen poor men 
 and women ; the number is 
 now thirty-two. 
 
 The old almshouses partially 
 surround the churchyard of 
 Abingdon. They are provided 
 with a covered cloister, lead- 
 ing to each door. Our engrav- 
 ing exhibits the central en- 
 trance, with the cupola above 
 the old hall. Over this gate 
 are a series of old paintings, all 
 allusive to works of charity • 
 
 THE ALMSHOUSES AT ABINGHON. and J n are manyCUHOUS 
 
 portraits of benefactors, the principal being the youthful Edward YI. 
 holding a charter with the great seal appended, by which the hospital was 
 founded. There is also a painting of the building of the bridges over 
 the Thames, which first gave Abingdon importance, as they occasioned 
 the high road from Gloucester to London to be turned through this 
 town. Burford Bridge was near the town, and Culham Bridge about 
 Half a mile to the east of it. Before they were erected, in 1416, the fords 
 here were very dangerous, and the road turned to Wallingford to avoid 
 
CLIFTON II AM 1 TON. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 47 
 
 them. The merchant Barbour, feeling the importance of these bridges to 
 the town, gave one hundred marks toward them ; and Leland says three 
 hundred men were employed at once upon them at the rate of a penny per 
 day ; which Hearne the antiquary observes was “ an extraordinary price 
 in these times, when the best wheat was sold for twelvepence per quarter.” 
 Another curious picture of a local antiquity is painted on the exterior 
 wall of the hospital, opposite the Thames : it is a view of the cross which 
 formerly stood in the town, and was destroyed by Waller’s army in 
 May, 1644, in revenge for his repulse at Newbridge. 
 
 Prom Abingdon the Thames pursues its course with little to attract 
 the tourist until we arrive at the ferry of Clifton, over which hangs a 
 small hill, the summit of which is crowned by one of the most graceful 
 and beautiful modern churches in England. 
 
 Before we reach the little church of Clifton Hampton, we pass the 
 village of Sutton Courtenay and Culham — the former with a modern, 
 the latter with an old church ; both are towered and embattled, and 
 
 CLIFTON HAMPTON CHURCH, AND FERRY. 
 
 have a picturesque effect. They are situated about two miles from 
 Abingdon, the river flowing the whole way through meadows of the 
 richest luxuriance, their banks covered with wild flowers. A mile 
 
48 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 beyond this, the railway crosses the river at the village of Appleford. 
 No part of England can display more secluded pastoral scenery than is 
 here met with ; the utmost abundance seems to crown every orchard 
 and garden. The county is agreeably diversified with wood and water ; 
 the banks of the river rise to a considerable elevation, and upon their 
 summits many graves of the early Roman and Saxon settlers have been 
 discovered. At Long "Wliittenham, close by, — a quiet village embosomed 
 in trees, — some fine Anglo-Saxon jewels have been exhumed.* The 
 scenery is purely pastoral, but is relieved by gentle undulating hills. 
 Upon one of the boldest stands the new church of Clifton — for it is a 
 new church, although externally and internally the architect has followed 
 the best models of the best periods of church architecture : it occupies 
 the site of the ancient structure ; indeed, the foundations, and some 
 portions of the walls, have been preserved. It is a most attractive and 
 graceful object seen from the river, and will bear the closest examina- 
 tion, for every part of it has been confided to the care of a competent 
 
 of the churchyard, adding much to the picturesque beauty of the scene. 
 
 » The hill above Look Wliittcnham has earthworks of an early kind upon it, believed to be the work 
 of the Romans. It is certain that these early conquerors of Britain were located here, inasmuch as 
 many antiquities, unmistakably Roman, have been found in the immediate vicinity, and several of their 
 burial-places discovered, from which vases, coins, &c., were obtained. 
 
 LICH-GATE, CLIFTON. 
 
 artist ; and all its appurtenances are 
 as perfect as Art can make them. 
 The village, too, is neat, well or- 
 dered, and evidently prosperous. 
 Over the whole district there is 
 evidence of wise and generous super- 
 intendence ; the clergyman is, we 
 believe, the squire, and it is obvious 
 that the temporal as well as the 
 spiritual wants of the district have a 
 generous and considerate minister. 
 A handsome lich-gate of carved 
 oak has been placed at the entrance 
 
THE BOOK OF 1 HE THAMES. 49 
 
 From the tower of this church, raised as it is so much above the 
 surrounding scenery, we obtain a noble view of now distant Oxford ; 
 and here, especially, we are impelled to recall the lines of the poet 
 j Warton : — 
 
 “Ye fretted pinnacles, ye fanes sublime. 
 
 Ye towers that wear the mossy vest of time ; 
 
 Ye massy piles of old munificence, 
 
 At once the pride of learning and defence ; 
 
 Ye cloisters pale, that length’ning to the sight, 
 
 To contemplation step by step invite : 
 
 Ye high-arched walks, where oft the whispers clear 
 Of harps unseen have swept the poet’s ear ; 
 
 Ye temples dim, where pious duty pays 
 Her holy hj-mns of ever- echoing praise ; 
 
 Lo ! your loved Isis, from the bord’ring vale, 
 
 With all a mother’s fondness bids you hail ! 
 
 Hail ! Oxford, hail! ” 
 
 After passing Clifton the hills to the right are somewhat bold in 
 character, and we see more distinctly the picturesque formation of the 
 Long "Whittenham range : they are round, chalky hills, with clumps of 
 trees on their summits. We now pass by Little Whittenham Church, 
 embosomed in luxurious trees, and the fine, woody hills beside Day’s 
 lock, where the river makes a circuit, passing, as usual, between low 
 and luxuriant hanks on either side, where the hay harvest is ever 
 abundant, hut where the husbandman will rarely look for any other 
 crop, inasmuch as the land is covered with water in winter floods.* 
 We approach Wallingford, but within a mile or two of this town the 
 voyager will pause at a narrow bridge, about twenty feet in length, 
 which crosses a poor and somewhat turgid stream. The tourist would 
 row by it unnoticed, as of “no account,” hut that he knows this to he 
 the famous river 'fame, and that here it joins the Thames — or, if the 
 fanciful will have it so, “the Isis; ” this being the marriage-bed of the 
 two famous rivers, who henceforward become one ; for from this spot, 
 according to the poet, — 
 
 * “Tradition has given to this place (Little Whittenham) an intellectual importance which heightens, 
 at least, if it does not transcend, its native beauties. Here an oak had long flourished — and hard was 
 his heart who suffered the axe to strike it — beneath whose shade Prior is said to have composed his 
 poem of ‘ Henry and Emma.’ The poet has described this spot as the scene of his interesting story, and 
 such a tree might surely have been spared for the sake of its traditionary character, when the general 
 ravage was made, by its last possessor, on the sylvan beauties of the place.” (Boydell, 1794.) 
 
 H 
 
50 
 
 THE HOOK. OF THE THAMES. 
 
 “ Straight Tamisis stream. 
 
 Proud of the late addition to its name, 
 
 Flows briskly on, ambitious now to pay 
 A larger tribute to the sovereign sea.” 
 
 Although most of the poets have described “ Tame ” as of the rougher, 
 and “ Isis ” as of the gentler sex, they are not all of one mind on this 
 subject. Camden celebrates the Tame as a female — 
 
 “Now Tame had caught the wish’d-for social flame 
 In prospect, as she down the mountain came.” 
 
 With Drayton, Tame is the bridegroom — 
 
 “ As we have told how Tame holds on his even course. 
 
 Return we to report how Isis from her source 
 Comes tripping with delight.” 
 
 He calls her also — “the mother of great Thames.” Tope, in allusion to 
 the Thames, makes reference to — 
 
 “The famed authors of his ancient name. 
 
 The winding Isis and the fruitful Thame.” 
 
 And Warton, — 
 
 “ As the smooth surface of the dimpled flood 
 The silver-slipper’d virgin lightly trod.” 
 
 Spenser has this passage : — 
 
 “ Him before thee went, as best became 
 His ancient parents, namely, the ancient Thame ; 
 
 But much more aged was his wife Uian he, 
 
 The Ouse, whom men do Isis rightly name.” 
 
 The Tame rises in the eastern part of the Chiltern Hills, in Buckingham- 
 shire, between the town of Aylesbury and the village of Querendon ; and 
 after winding through the golden vale of Aylesbury, enters the county 
 of Oxford, and soon refreshes the town to which it has given a name. 
 Hence its course is to the very ancient city of Dorchester, from whence 
 by slow progress — and by no means “running to the embraces” of the 
 fair Isis — it paces about two miles to join the Thames beneath the small 
 wooden bridge we have pictured ; its whole course, from its rise to its 
 fall, being about thirty-nine miles. Fancy may be permitted full scope 
 and free indulgence while “the voyager” passes underneath the plain 
 rustic bridge that marks the interesting locality. He has visited the 
 scarcely perceptible source of the great river — already seen it fertilise 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 51 
 
 and enrich cities, towns, and villages ; but here he will naturally consider 
 in prospect the mighty gifts it presents to the world, between this com- 
 paratively insignificant confluence of “ two waters,” and the illimitable 
 sea to which they are together hastening : — 
 
 “ Let fancy lead, from Trewsbury mead, 
 
 With hazel fringed, and copse- wood deep ; 
 
 Where, scarcely seen, through brilliant green, 
 
 Thy infant waters softly creep. 
 
 To where the wide-expanding Nore 
 Beholds thee, with tumultuous roar, 
 
 Conclude thy devious race ; 
 
 And rush, with Medway’s confluent wave, 
 
 To seek, where mightier billows rave, 
 
 Thy giant Sire's embrace.” 
 
 A row up the Tame to visit Dorchester will be the duty of those who 
 have leisure, and desire to examine the several points of interest on or 
 near our great British river. The tourist will be amply repaid for a brief 
 delay. Although the “ city ” has fallen to the grade of a poor village, the 
 Roman amphitheatre is an earth-mound, and the cathedral half a ruin, 
 history and tradition supply unquestionable proofs of its former magnifi- 
 cence — proofs which time has been unable altogether to obliterate. On 
 its site was a Roman station of large extent and importance ; and the 
 place was famous during the ages that immediately followed. 
 
 From the junction to Wallingford the “ united streams ” — 
 
 “ With friendly and with equal pace they go, 
 
 And in their clear meanderings wandering slow ” — 
 
 soon pass under the bridge of Shillingford, from whence the tourist may 
 walk some two or three miles to offer homage at that shrine in the grand 
 old church of Ewelme, which contains the dust of Sir Thomas Chaucer, 
 the poet’s first-born son. 
 
 Shillingford is an antiquated village, with many large farm-houses of 
 red brick and timber, warmly thatched, and with an air of picturesque 
 comfort about them thoroughly characteristic of English rural life of 
 “ the better sort.” Indeed, this portion of the Thames is as completely 
 rural and unsophisticated as any part of England. The character of the 
 scenery changes completely at the bridge, and we see again the rich level 
 meadows, with the square tower of Bensington Church, and the quiet 
 
52 THK BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 village of farms and cottages beside it. A mile farther, and we reach 
 another lock, close to the town of Wallingford, which is nearly hidden 
 by the luxurious growth of trees in surrounding meadows. 
 
 Wallingford was famous in its day; the British, the Romans, the 
 Saxons, and the Danes, had each and all their settlements there ; it was 
 a borough in the time of the Confessor, and had a mint before the Con- 
 quest. Traces of its ancient walls and castle may still be obtained by 
 the patient searcher; the latter is described by old historians as “im- 
 pregnable,” but “ Time, the destroyer,” has effectually removed all its 
 strength except a few indications, which consist of rubble and stones. 
 In the time of Leland it was sore “ in ruines, and for the most part 
 defaced.” Camden described it as “ environed with a double wall and 
 a double ditch ; the citadel standing in the middle on a high artificial 
 hill.” It must have been of immense size and strength, and was perhaps, 
 as it was said to have been, “ impregnable” before 
 
 “ Villainous saltpetre had been dug 
 Out of the bowels of the harmless earth.’’ 
 
 Soon after passing under Wallingford bridge we reach the little Norman 
 church of Crowmarsh, and about a mile farther, at a lock known as 
 “Chamber Hole,” we observe Newnham-Murrell, with an old church on 
 one side of the river, and Winterbrook on the other. A short distance 
 below is Mongewell, a fair mansion, with rich gardens, lawn, and 
 plantations. A small modern Gothic church is erected here. We soon 
 reach Cholsey, where an older church awaits the antiquarian tourist. At 
 Little Stoke, some distance onward, we are again met by a railway- 
 bridge, and notice the high chalk down rising above it. Passing the 
 bridge, the church of Moulsford appears embosomed in trees. Nearly 
 opposite is South Stoke, and, a short distance farther, at Clceve Hill 
 lock, we arrive in view of the Streatly hills, at the foot of which are the 
 twin villages of Streatly and Goring — the former in Berkshire, the latter 
 in Oxfordshire, joined by a long and picturesque bridge, from which a 
 fine view is commanded of the river, with its graceful windings and its 
 pretty “aits” above and below, and especially between the bridge and 
 the lock, distant some half a mile apart. These villages of course con- 
 

THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 53 
 
 tain churches ; that of Goring, however, is by far the most interesting ; 
 it stands close to the water side, and beside it are a graceful cottage and 
 a busy mill.* 
 
 The church is of Norman foundation, hut the tower only preserves the 
 peculiar features of that style. It is very massive in construction, with 
 round-headed windows, divided into two lights by a central pillar ; a 
 winding stair to the belfry is formed in a small round tower, appended 
 
 GORING CHURCH. 
 
 to the north side of this square tower. The body of the church is 
 much more modern — a circumstance by no means uncommon in English 
 
 * Nearly a century has passed since the village of Goring was “ famous ” “ on account of the virtues ” 
 of a medicinal spring in its immediate vicinity: it was called “ Spring-well,” and was situated on the 
 margin of the Thames. It is particularly mentioned by Ur. Plot (in the reign of Charles II.) as cele- 
 brated for its efficacy in the cure of cutaneous disorders, and also for ulcers and sore eyes. Much more 
 recently, however, it was considered “a valuable specific ; ” for its then owner, Richard Lybbe, Esq., 
 published several advertisements, wherein he states “ that other water had been substituted and sold for 
 that of Goring spring ; ” and he informs the public that, to prevent such deception, every bottle or vessel 
 hereafter filled with the genuine water shall be sealed with his arms, of which he gives a particular 
 description ; and that the persons appointed by him to seal and deliver it shall demand nothing for the 
 water, but a penny a quart for attendance and impress of his arms. The value of Spring-well, if ever it 
 had any. has long ceased to be appreciated. The spring now gives its supply to the Thames without fee 
 or reward, and the “penny stamp” is a tradition of the past. 
 
54 THE ROOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 ecclesiastical architecture. It has been recently restored in very good 
 taste ; but while it gratifies the ecclesiologist, it offers few antique features 
 on which the architectural student can dwell. 
 
 The houses at Goring are excellent examples of those “ peasant 
 homes” which nowhere exist more happily than in our own favoured 
 isle. The cottages have that look of comfort so essentially English, and 
 their little gardens are trim and neat. The opposite village has equal 
 claims to attention, and is more romantically situated on the hill-side. 
 The scenery is the most striking we have yet met in our downward course. 
 
 Resuming our voyage, we leave to the right, on the slope of one of the 
 hills which now “accompany” us for several miles, the beautiful mansion 
 of Basildon. Hence, until we arrive at the villages of Pangbourne and 
 Whitchurch, the Thames assumes a new character, — high hills, richly 
 clad in foliage, suspend over us on either side, now and then opening, 
 occasionally bare, and frequently fringing the banks of the stream with 
 the branches of the best varieties of British trees. The villages of Pang- 
 bourne and Whitchurch, like those of Streatly and Goring, are united by 
 a bridge, a little above which are the lock and weir ; the scenery all 
 about this neighbourhood is exceedingly interesting and beautiful — the 
 stream is broad, and the wood-crowned heights that arise on either side 
 add to the view a variety which is especially welcome after so much 
 that is tame and flat, with which the upper Thames so continually 
 supplies us. These low lands, however, have their value, not alone as 
 suggestive of fertility — they abound in the picturesque ; of such scenes 
 the poet has happily said — 
 
 “Everywhere 
 
 Nature is lovely : on the mountain height. 
 
 Or where the embosom’d mountain glen displays 
 Secure sublimity, or where around 
 The undulated surface gently slopes 
 With mingled hill and valley: — everywhere. 
 
 Nature is lovely ; even in scenes like these, 
 
 Where not a hillock breaks the unvaried plain, 
 
 The eye may find new charms that seeks delight.” 
 
 The Thames at Pangbourne — above and below it — is, and has long been, 
 a favourite resort of the angler; its sides “hereabouts” are full of water- 
 lilies, and those other aquatic plants which afford the fish shelter and 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 55 
 
 protection ; they are especially such as are loved by the perch — and 
 perch-fishing in this vicinity is perhaps as good as it is upon any part of 
 the bountiful river. 
 
 From Pangbourne to Reading — or rather to Caversham Bridge — a 
 distance of six miles, the bants of the river again become more level, 
 although the hills continue for a short distance, and remain long in sight, 
 as a fine background to a most beautiful picture. 
 
 The villages of Whitchurch and Pangbourne — the former in Oxford- 
 shire, the latter in Berkshire — are twin villages, united by a long, narrow, 
 ungainly, yet picturesque wooden bridge, from which pleasant views are 
 obtained of the river, both above and below. As a residence for a time, 
 Pangbourne has many attractions ; the scenery in the neighbourhood is 
 
 WHITCHURCH. 
 
 very beautiful ; the hills are high and healthful, and command extensive 
 views ; the place is sufficiently retired, — for although the Great Western 
 Railways runs “ right through it,” visitors are few, except those who 
 take the shortest cut to the river-side, and make the most of a morning 
 “pitch” beside the water-plants, which here grow in rich luxuriance, 
 and where the perch abound. 
 
56 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Pangbourne was held, according to Domesday Book, by Miles Crispin 
 of William the Conqueror. Its manor and church were afterwards granted 
 to the Abbey of Beading, as appears from the confirmations of the 
 charters of Henry II., its founder, by Hubert, Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 and Bobert, Bishop of Sarum. Pangbourne afterwards formed a part of 
 
 FAA (j li O L 1<A is. . 
 
 the possessions of Edward, Duke of Somerset, who was executed in the 
 year 1553, in the last year of Edward YI. It was then granted to Sir 
 Francis Englefield by Queen Mary ; and he, becoming a fugitive, it 
 reverted to the crown, “ as appears from an explication of the Inqui- 
 sition for the finding of him.” The reversion of the mansion and manor 
 of Pangbourne was granted by Queen Elizabeth to Thomas Weldon, 
 cofferer of her Majesty’s household. The house is mentioned by Leland 
 as a fair manor-place, that had belonged to the Abbot of Beading. The 
 village, however, has preserved few or none of its antiquities ; the visitor 
 will seek in vain for traces of its early renown, although he may pleasantly 
 muse and dream of its former greatness, while lulled to repose by the 
 murmur of the “ fall” that now gently, and now angrily, gives voice to 
 the waters as they make their way through the weir. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 57 
 
 * No nobleman's mansion was considered complete, at this period, it it were not provided with a 
 bowling-green. Our little cut exhibits the 
 game as played in the time of Charles I. 
 and is copied from an Italian print, by 
 Rossi, dated 1647. The sport is said to 
 have originated in England; and the 
 earliest traces of it are to be found in 
 manuscripts of the 13ih century. Covered 
 alleys were afterwards invented for the 
 enjoyment of the game in winter ; and it 
 was looked upon as a gentlemanly recrea- 
 tion, of value for the exercise the players attained in its practice. The reader will remember Pope’s 
 line : — 
 
 “ Some Dukes at Marybone bowl time away.” 
 
 “ amusing himself -with bowls,” and other sports.* On the fine lawn 
 
 Continuing our voyage from Pangbourne — a line of undulating chalk 
 hills on the immediate left, and an uninterrupted tract of flat meadow- 
 land stretching for two or three miles along the opposite bank — we soon 
 arrive opposite Hardwicke House, situated on the slope of a wooded 
 height above the river. It is a large gabled structure of red brick, 
 situated on a terrace of earth raised considerably above the river, upon 
 which are many shady bowers of old yews cut into fanciful arcades. It 
 is so little altered from the time of its erection, that it seems to carry 
 back the spectator to the era of our great civil war. Here Charles I. 
 spent much of his time during the troublous period that preceded his fall, 
 
 MAPLE-DURHAM CHURCH AND MILL. 
 
58 THE BOOK OF TIIE THAMES. 
 
 between the house and the river are some noble specimens of cedar, oak, 
 and elm trees, that, judging from their great age, must have been 
 witnesses of the alternate sports and apprehensions of the sovereign. A 
 little farther, and we arrive at an assemblage of choice picturesque 
 objects, such as are not often met with even singly, and are very rarely 
 encountered grouped together into one rich picture as we here find them. 
 At one view we have Mapee-Dukham ferry, lock, and weir — the mossy 
 old mill embosomed in rich foliage, from which again rises the grey 
 church tower, behind which, though almost hidden by lofty trees, we 
 see the turreted outline of Maple-Dueham House, forming altogether a 
 
 MAPLE-DUKIIAM HOUSE. 
 
 painter’s paradise.* The river here becomes broad and studded with 
 numerous islets, between which extends a series of weirs, over which 
 the water tumbles and foams, adding life and variety to the general calm- 
 ness of the scene. To obtain a good view of the house, the tourist 
 
 * It was built in 1581 by Sir Michael Blount, then Lieutenant of the Tower of London. In the 
 cnurcli are many interesting memorials of the Blount family. Maple-Durham is a corruption of 
 Mapulder-ham, literally meaning, the residence pr manor among the maple-trees. Mapulder was the 
 Saxon and early English name for a maple-tree, Apulder for an apple-tree, &c. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 59 
 
 should land on the right bank, just below the lock, when, looking across 
 the river, he will see, between the two tall elms that frame the picture, 
 a matchless pile of gables, dormers, ornamental chimneys, and all the 
 other elements of “the Elizabethan style.” From the river we have 
 no good view of the principal front of the house, which is towards the 
 east, looking down a magnificent avenue of elm-trees nearly a mile in 
 length. There are in the house, it is said, several secret rooms and 
 passages used in the time of the Commonwealth by the Royalist party 
 for the concealment of troops or priests, as the case might be. Maple 
 Durham has long been the property of the ancient family of the Blounts. 
 “ The church is of singular design, having a nave of irregular form, with 
 a south aisle only.” 
 
 On the opposite side of the river is the village of Purley, the small 
 church of which stands close to the bank, buried in a grove of towering 
 trees. Purley Hall, on the right, on high ground, is a plain, square, 
 modern villa. The towing-path is closed where the grounds of Purley 
 reach the Thames, but is continued on the opposite bank of the stream, 
 so that men and horses have to be ferried across, and continue their 
 journey for about a quarter of a mile, when they reach Purley Ferry, 
 and are again carried across to the right bank, where the ferryman’s 
 house is situated, from whence the path continues to Caversham 
 Bridge. 
 
 The line of the Great Western Railway is in sight almost all the way 
 between Pangbourne and Reading, and, for the most part, in close prox- 
 imity to the river. About Purley, the tall wooded banks approach each 
 other, and forming now and then close umbrageous scenes of exquisite 
 beauty. Continuing our journey, no object of particular interest meets 
 us for some distance, until, coming to a turn of the river where the 
 country opens out, we obtain a sight of Caversham, with its old bridge 
 and church, and the large town of Reading. The ground on the right 
 has now sunk to a level ; but on the left, chalk-hills, with steep decli- 
 vities, approach and almost overhang the stream. From these hills 
 beautiful prospects are obtained of the river and surrounding scenery ; 
 and, for half a mile before reaching Caversham, the northern bank is 
 
60 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 adorned by a fine hanging wood of fir-trees, passing which we arrive at 
 Caversham Bridge and village.* 
 
 Caversham Bridge is an ugly structure, partly of wood and partly of 
 stone. At its foot is a small cottage, where boats are hired, and where 
 the curious may trace some ancient remains, which appear to be those of 
 the way-side chapel noted by Leland in his ‘‘Itinerary” {temp. Henry 
 V TTT -), He tells us — “At the north end of Caversham Bridge, as we 
 come from Heading, there standeth a fair old chapel of stone, on the 
 
 CAVERSHAM BRIDGE. 
 
 right hand, piled in the foundation because of the rage of the Thames.” 
 In the lettei’s addressed to Hearne, the antiquary, is one dated 1727, 
 
 * During the civil war many skirmishes took place in the vicinity. Of one of them, between the 
 troops of the Parliament and those of the king, some records are preserved in the diary of Sir Samuel 
 Luke, said to have been the original of Butler’s “ Hudibras.” He writes : — “ Upon Cawsam Hill, 
 unexpected to us, came his Majesty’s forces, under the command of General Ruven and Prince Robert, 
 consisting of about forty collours of horse and nine regiments of foot, with ordnance and other ammu- 
 nition ; they fell upon a loose regiment that laye there to keepe the bridge, and gave them a furious 
 assault both with their ordnance and men — one bullet being taken up by our men which weighed 
 twenty-four pounds at the least. This was answered with our musketts, and we made the hill soe liott 
 for them that they were forced to retreat, leaving behind seven bodyes of as personable men as ever 
 were seene, and most of their armes ; besides others which fell in three or four miles compasse, as they 
 retreated. And it is sayed that within five miles there were five hundred hurt men drest in a bame 
 besides many prisoners which wee tooke, and many hurt men within our precincts, to which wee sent 
 the next morning our surgeons to dresse, and gave orders to have the dead bodyes buryed by the 
 parishioners where they were slain.” 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 61 
 
 from an inquirer, who informs him that “this chapel was dedicated to 
 St. Anne,” and that from thence the religious went at certain times to a 
 holy well, “ between a field called the Mount and a lane called Priest’s 
 Lane,” from which circumstance it obtained its name ; and that there 
 was “ in the memory of man a large ancient oak just by this well, which 
 was also had in great veneration.” 
 
 The lock — Caversham Lock — is distant half a mile from the bridge ; 
 and a small island, containing about four acres, divides the current. 
 A view of the town of Leading would be hence obtained but for the 
 intervening railway. The steeple of St. Lawrence’s Church is, however, 
 seen high above surrounding houses ; and so is the red-brick ruin of the 
 Abbey gateway, closely adjoining the modern jail, beside which the 
 ruins of the old abbey have been laid out in shady public walks : they 
 exhibit little remains of distinctive architectural features, inasmuch as 
 the walls have been denuded of the outer squared stone for building 
 purposes, leaving the core of the walls only. A very pretty public 
 garden is in front of this, and a mound, with a fine group of trees, 
 commands a beautiful view of the winding of the Thames, from Purley 
 on the left to Shiplake on the right of the spectator. 
 
 The Kennet, which runs through the town, joins the Thames between 
 Caversham Bridge and Sonning. This river rises near the village of 
 East Kennet, on the eastern side of Wiltshire, in the vicinity of Abury, 
 and, “after a sequestered course” of about four miles, reaches Marl- 
 borough, afterwards waters the ancient village of Ramsbury, thence 
 visits and refreshes Hungerford, proceeding thence to Newbury, where 
 it becomes navigable ; and during a course of nearly forty miles minis- 
 ters to the wants and industry of man — aiding the operations of tho 
 Thames in producing and distributing wealth. Drayton, in his quaint 
 poem, the “ Poly-Olbion,” thus narrates the junction of the streams : — 
 
 “ At Reading once arrived, clear Kennet overtakes 
 Her lord, the stately Thames ; which that great flood again 
 With many signes of joy doth kindly entertain. 
 
 Then Loddon next comes in, contributing her store, 
 
 As still we see, the much runs ever to the more.” 
 
 Reading is the venerable capital of Berkshire. “ This little city,” say 
 
62 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 some topographers, “was termed by the Saxons, ltheadyne, from rhea , a 
 river ; or the British word redin, signifying fern, which Leland mentions 
 as “ growing hereabouts in great plenty ; ” hut these are fanciful deriva- 
 tions. In all such names the termination ing was the Saxon patronymic. 
 The Raxlingas was a family, or, as they would say in Scotland, a clan, 
 whose original head was a chief named Itacda. The name, therefore, 
 simply meant that this was the seat and property of that family. In 
 most parts of England the name of a family is joined with ham, t’M, 
 &c., meaning a residence, as Birmingham (Beorminga-ham, the home of 
 the Bcormingas), Wellington (Wadlinga-tun, the tun, or dwelling, of the 
 Wadlingas), &c. But in the south, especially in Berkshire, Sussex, and 
 perhaps Surrey, the family name was given to the place without any 
 adjunct; as we have Worthing (the Worthingas), and Beading (the 
 lltedingas), and Sonning (the Sonningas). 
 
 A strong castle existed here until the time of Henry II., by whom it 
 was destroyed, “as affording a place of refuge to the adherents of King 
 Stephen.” Its site has long been matter of speculation. Its abbey was 
 one of the most considerable in England, “both for the magnitude of 
 its building and the state of its endowments,” its abbots being mitred, 
 and enjoying the honour of a seat in Parliament. The structure was 
 commenced by Henry I. “on the site of a small nunnery, said to have 
 been founded by Elfrida, mother-in-law of Edward the Martyr, in order 
 to expiate the murder of that king at Corfc Castle.” The active and 
 honourable part which Heading sustained during the war between 
 Charles I. and the Parliament, occupies a prominent page in the history 
 of the period ; but Reading, from its proximity to the Thames, being on 
 the high road to London, and from its strength, “though not a walled 
 iown, as may be supposed,” shared largely in many of the leading events 
 of the country in all ages. Of “the castle,” as wc have intimated, 
 even the site is unknown : Leland conjectured that “a piece of the abbey 
 was built of the ruins of it ; ” while of the famous abbey itself there are 
 but few remains, the county jail now occupying its place. At the disso- 
 lution it was “extremely wealthy,” and contained many “valuables.” 
 It was peculiarly rich in relics, possessing, among other treasures, “a 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 63 
 
 hand of the Apostle James,” and “the principell rclik of idolytrie within 
 thys realme, an aungel with oon wyng that brought to Caversham the 
 spere hedde that percyd our Saviour is side upon the crosse.” * The 
 town is active and prosperous, although of its once famous woollen 
 manufactories there is hut the tradition. The only important manu- 
 factory it now possesses is one for the production of “ biscuits ; ” and, 
 strange as it m;ty appear, this is so extensive as to employ several 
 hundred men, aided by large machine power. It is foreign to our 
 purpose, or a very agreeable and interesting paper might be written 
 concerning the several processes in use to create this minor accessory of 
 the table, which is exported — not by thousands, but by millions — and 
 sent to every part of the globe. They have, and deserve, a universal 
 reputation, obtained and sustained by using only the best materials of 
 all descriptions — flour, milk, eggs, sugar, and so forth; and it must be 
 recorded as a gratifying fact, that the manufacturers, while making their 
 own fortunes, have contributed very largely to the prosperity of the 
 town. 
 
 Reading was the birthplace of Archbishop Laud ; and among honour- 
 able and happy memories associated with this town, or rather with its 
 vicinity, is that of “Three Mile Cross,” long the residence of Mary 
 Russell Mitford. Three Mile Cross is “ Our Village.” 
 
 Having rambled through Reading, noted its large capabilities for 
 
 4 The town of Reading had the privilege of coining from the early days of the Saxons, and it was 
 continued until the local coinage of England was merged into the metropolitan mint. The penny of 
 Edward I., here engraved, was struck at this town, which is termed “ Villa Radingy” on this piece, in 
 accordance with the Latinised form so constantly 
 adopted in mediaeval currency. The great improve- 
 ment in the coinage at this time is due to the long 
 and prosperous reign of Edward I., who restored 
 the currency to beauty, from a state of barbarism 
 worse than that of the Saxon era, into which it 
 had sunk after the reign of John, and during the 
 troublous times in England. The coinage remained 
 without change until another great monarch had 
 arisen to give peace after intestine wars — Henry VII., who first gave portraiture on our national 
 money; for from the time of Edward III. until his period, one head only was used for the series, like 
 that upon this little coin ; and it is not easy to distinguish the particular coins of some sovereigns from 
 others of the series, except by minute peculiarities known to the students of Numismatics, but which 
 would escape the eye of the general observer. 
 
64 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 commerce, visited its principal antiquities, and made our pilgrimage to 
 the home and grave of Mary Russell Mitford, we continue our voyage, 
 entering the boat at Caversham Bridge, previously examining the pictu- 
 resque and venerable church, and the singular “bit of ruin” that apper- 
 tains to the boat-house. 
 
 The Rennet, close to its junction with the Thames, is crossed by two 
 
 SOUSING CHURCH. 
 
 railway bridges, the South Eastern and the Great "Western, the latter 
 being the nearest to the great river into which the tributary runs. 
 
 In the immediate neighbourhood of Caversham Lock, there are wooded 
 slopes crowned with villas, which give variety and interest to the 
 scenery ; thence the banks are flat and tame, until we come in view of 
 Sonning Bark, and pass underneath the woods which overhang the river. 
 The church and village of Sonning are very simple, but highly pictu- 
 resque, — the former is venerable from antiquity, but exceedingly neat 
 and well kept ; the latter is clean, neat, and sufficiently aged to retain 
 many of the best characteristics of its “ order,” which, unhappily, are fast 
 decaying throughout England. It is described by Leland as “an upland 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 65 
 
 town, set on fair and commodious ground, beneath which the Tamise 
 runneth in a pleasant vale.” A handsome bridge of brick connects it 
 with the opposite side : many of the cottages are covered with climbing 
 plants — the old honeysuckle, the time-honoured jasmine, and the sweet 
 clematis, mingled with the more recent acquirements of simple florists of 
 humble homes. 
 
 On the opposite bank, a little above the junction, is the village of 
 Shiplake, backed by hilly slopes, on one of which is the church, of 
 
 SHIPLAKE CHUBCH. 
 
 which Grainger, author of the “Biographical Dictionary,” was the 
 incumbent; living here “in competency, obscurity, and content” — so 
 says the tablet which marks his grave ; and here dying, in 1776, “ as he 
 was officiating at the altar.” Prom the church porch there is a glorious 
 view of the valley of the Thames : — 
 
 “ The tranquil cot, the restless mill, 
 
 The lonely hamlet, calm and still ; 
 
 The village spire, the busy town, 
 
 The shelving bank, the rising down ; 
 
 The dsher's punt, the peasant’s home. 
 
 The woodland seat, the regal dome, — 
 
 K 
 
In quick succession rise to charm 
 The mind, with virtuous feelings warm : 
 
 Till where the widening current glides 
 To mingle with the turbid tides, 
 
 Thy spacious breast displays unfurl’d 
 The ensigns of th’ assembled world ! ” 
 
 The lock and mill of Shiplake are now reached, just below which the 
 Loddon meets the Thames ; the great river being crossed by the rail- 
 way from Twyford to Henley. The Lod- 
 don is “ composed of various branches,” — 
 its most distant source being in the vici- 
 nity of Basingstoke, one of its accessory 
 rills gliding through a part of Windsor 
 Forest. The village of Wakgeave is a 
 pretty and long village, with a picturesque 
 and venerable church, surrounded by 
 well-grown trees, and environed by pro- 
 ductive meadows. In the church is a mo- 
 nument to Thomas Day, the eccentric 
 but amiable author of “ Sandford and 
 Merton,” who was killed by a fall from 
 his horse on his way from Anningsly, 
 his home, near Chertsey, to the residence 
 of his mother at Bear’s Hill, near War- 
 grave. The monument contains these lines, written by Day as an 
 inscription for the tomb of a friend ; but they were well applied to 
 himself : — 
 
 “ Beneath the reach of time or fortune’s power, 
 
 Remain, cold stone, remain, and mark the hour 
 When all the noblest gifts that Heaven e’er gave 
 Were enter’d in a dark, untimely grave! 
 
 Oh ! taught on reason’s boldest wings to rise, 
 
 And catch each glimm’ring of the opening skies ! 
 
 Oil, gentle bosom of unsullied mind ! 
 
 Oh, friend to truth, to virtue, to mankind , 
 
 Thy dear remains we trust to this sad shrine, 
 
 Secure to feel no second loss like thine.” 
 
 We now approach one of the cultivated “lions” of the Thames — 
 “ Park Place,” famous in the annals of the river for the beauty of its 
 
 WAKGBAVE CHURCH. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 67 
 
 site, the growth of its trees, and some circumstances which give it 
 interest beyond that of ordinary demesnes. The house was built by 
 the Duke of Hamilton : it was some time the residence of Frederick, 
 Prince of Wales, the father of George III. ; hut it is mainly indebted 
 for its many attractions to Marshal Conway, who, towards the close of 
 the last century, became its possessor, and who “ set himself the task” 
 of giving to Nature all the advantages she could derive from Art. The 
 grounds have since received the benefit of time ; they have not been 
 neglected by successive lords ; and the gentleman who at present owns 
 them has evidently studied, by all the means at his command, to render 
 them — what they are — “ beautiful exceedingly.” Visitors, by whom 
 access on fixed days is easily obtained, land at the very charming 
 “ Boat-house” we have pictured; it is, in reality, a furnished dwelling, 
 
 THE BOAT-HOUSE AT PARK PLACE. 
 
 and contains some fine, and several remarkable, works of Art, — statues, 
 pictures, wood-carvings, and foreign curiosities, — in the examination of 
 which half an hour may be profitably expended. 
 
 A walk through the grounds, however, is a more exquisite treat — hill 
 and dale, richly-wooded slopes, and shaven lawns, are happily inter- 
 
68 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 mixed ; while every now and then judicious openings supply views of 
 the Thames underneath, or the landscape far beyond. 
 
 Here and there, on green hillocks or in gloomy dells, mimic ruins have 
 been introduced ; some of them built out of the debris of Reading Abbey. 
 In one of them is a long subterraneous passage (cut through a chalk bed), 
 leading to a Roman amphitheatre, the base of which is planted with the 
 mournful cypress. This is the work of Marshal Conway ; but there is 
 an object of greater interest in these grounds, although its value is 
 lessened by the knowledge that this also is “artificial.” Strictly 
 speaking, however, artificial it is not ; for the Druidic Temple which 
 
 THE DBUID TEMPLE AT PARK PLACE. 
 
 stands on the summit of one of the small hills, was placed exactly as it 
 was found, keeping precisely the same form and character it received 
 from the hands of the “builders,” it may be twenty centuries ago. We 
 may briefly tell its history. The temple was discovered on the summit 
 of a high hill near the town of St. Ilelier, in the Isle of Jersey, on the 
 12th of August, 1785 ; it was entirely covered with earth, having the 
 appearance of a large tumulus, and was laid bare by workmen employed 
 to level the ground. Fortunately, General Conway was then Governor 
 of Jersey ; his attention was at once directed to its preservation ; and, 
 

THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 69 
 
 on his leaving the island, it was presented to him, and by him removed 
 to Park Place. 
 
 ‘ ‘ This curious structure is sixty-five feet in circumference, composed 
 of forty-five large stones (measuring, in general, about seven feet in 
 height, from four to six in breadth, one to three in thickness), and 
 contains six perfect lodges, or cells. The supposed entrance, or passage, 
 faces the east, and measures fifteen feet in length, and four feet and 
 upwards in breadth, and about four feet in height, with a covering of 
 rude stones from eighteen inches to two feet thick. In the removal of 
 this curious temple from Jersey, all the parts were marked with such 
 care as to be correctly placed in their original form, and precise direction, 
 when they were re-erected on the charming spot which is distinguished 
 by them. In the eighth volume of the ‘ Arch apologia,’ a particular 
 account is given of this venerable antiquity.”* 
 
 Half a mile or so from Park Place, and we arrive in sight of Henley 
 Bridge, a graceful structure of five arches, erected in 1787, and which 
 will be interesting to Art-lovers as containing two sculptured works — 
 Masks of the Thames and Isis — from the chisel of the Hon. Mrs. 
 Darner : f they decorate the consoles of the central arch, exhibit talent 
 
 * We have retained the popular term “ temple,’’ as applied to this antiquity ; but it is properly a 
 tomb. Recent researches in Jersey and Guernsey have sufficiently established that fact. The circle of 
 stones formed the wall of a small chamber, which was covered by heavy slabs ; the “ cells ” contained 
 bodies of the dead. A narrow covered passage led to this chamber, and a mound of earth was placed 
 over all. In the thirty-fifth volume of the “ Archaeologia,” Mr. Lukis, of Guernsey, has described 
 several of these burial-places, from his own investigations in these islands. He describes the avenue 
 or entrance to them as rarely more than 3 feet in height by 2 feet in width ; the interior chamber of the 
 largest was 8 feet in height, 45 feet in length, and 15 feet in width; the roof stones, of granite, were 
 computed to weigh thirty tons. They appear to have been used for successive interments of the abori- 
 ginal chieftains of the islands, and have been found with additional chambers as the original ones 
 became filled with the “ great departed.” Sometimes in these chambers skeletons are found ; sometimes 
 bones, which show that the body was consumed by fire ; sometimes the ashes are preserved in urns 
 rudely decorated with incised ornament. The other articles found in these tombs tell of an early and 
 primitive people, such as spear and arrow-heads of flint, as well as knives of the same material, rudely 
 formed beads of coloured earth, bracelets of jet, &c. 
 
 t Anne Seymour Darner was a lady of noble descent. Her father, General Conway, was brother to 
 the Marquis of Hertford; her mother the only daughter of the fourth Duke of Argyll; and she was 
 cousin to Horace Walpole, who speaks enthusiastically of her graces of person and mind. She was a 
 real lover of her art — an art so seldom practised by ladies — and honestly earned a reputation her posi- 
 tion, in the great world might have given her with less labour, had she not desired the judmuent of 
 connoisseurs, as well as the praises of titled friends. Her husband, the eldest son of the first Lord 
 Milton, destroyed himself after he had been married nine years : he died in debt, and his widow sought 
 
70 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 of no common order, and arc interesting as examples of that genius 
 which adopted the most difficult of all the arts as the occupation and 
 enjoyment of rank and wealth.* This is not the only memory preserved 
 at Henley. It was here that Shenstone wrote the familiar lines on an 
 inn : — 
 
 “ Whoe’er has travelled life’s dull round, 
 
 Where’er his stages may have been, 
 
 May sigh to think he still has found 
 The warmest welcome at an inn.” 
 
 The inn — the Red Lion — is still there, hut it has been long unoccupied ; 
 it gives, however, unequivocal proofs that it was abundant in comforts 
 
 MASKS OF THE THAMES AND ISIS. 
 
 during the days of its glory ; its large rooms are now unfurnished ; its 
 snug and “ cozy” chambers are without light and warmth ; the stables 
 and outhouses, the lofts and hen-roosts, are all empty; and those who 
 visit the house because of the associations it awakens, and contrast its 
 present loneliness with its former bustle and gaiety, may “sigh” that 
 here a “welcome” is no longer to be found: his lament will not be 
 
 consolation in renewed art-study, and travelled in Italy. Her father, the general, resided at Park 
 Place— hence her contribution to the bridge. Walpole left her Strawbery Hill for life. She died in 
 1823, in the eightieth year of her age. 
 
 * That towards the source of the river represents the Isis— a female head, round which water-plants 
 are entwined ; that on the other side is an aged male head, the Thames, crowned with bulrushes, and 
 from whose flowing beard little fish peep forth. Both heads are very boldly executed, and have been 
 highly eulogised by Horace Walpole. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 71 
 
 lessened because in its successor he finds a grevious contrast in reference 
 to all the good things of life of which an inn is proverbially productive. 
 The town of Henley is happily situated : above and below the scenery is 
 charming. A fine old church adds to its interest ; and the bridge is one 
 of the most beautiful of the many that span the noble river. 
 
 Henley is in Oxfordshire ; but soon after leaving it we part from that 
 county and enter Buckinghamshire — on the north side of the river, that 
 is to say, for on its southern banks we are still in Berkshire, and continue 
 so to be until we have passed Windsor. As our boat rows us downward, 
 we soon arrive in sight of Fawley Court — a summer-house, situated on 
 
 ISLAND, FAWLEY f.OUBT. 
 
 a pretty island, attracts the eye as one of the graces of the Thames. It 
 is built after a Greek model. Close to this is the village of Remenham, at 
 the base of some high ground charmingly wooded. Fawley Court — its 
 Grecian summer-house, that is to say, on the small island — is famous in 
 the history of the Thames as the starting-point of the Itegatta, which 
 annually “glorifies” the river, and assembles here a host of gay and 
 happy lovers of water-sports. 
 
 Passing Culham Court, and underneath a range of wooded hills, we 
 
72 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 reach “ Mile End,” or Hambledon, lock. The adjacent country becomes 
 exceedingly beautiful, varied by alternate mills, islands, meadows, and 
 hills, with every now and then ornamental “ forest trees ” hanging over 
 the stream, and giving pleasant shade to the current on its downward 
 flow. Magpie Island is reached and passed ; but those who have leisure 
 may linger about this charming spot. The wood of Medmenham soon 
 comes in sight ; the ruined Abbey is seen among the trees ; and close 
 beside it a pretty ferry, with a pleasant way-side inn. The abbey has 
 
 MEDMENHAM ABBEY. 
 
 been pictured a hundred times, and is a capital subject seen from any 
 point of view; the river runs close beside it; there is a hill adjacent — 
 Danes’ Hill ; dark woods and green meadows are at hand ; gay boats and 
 traffic barges are continually passing ; the ferry is always picturesque^ 
 and the artist is constantly supplied “ on the spot” with themes for pic- 
 tures ; especially he has before him the venerable ruin — “ venerable,” at 
 least, in so far as the eye is concerned. Time has touched it leniently ; 
 some of its best “bits ” are as they were a century ago, except that the 
 lichens have given to them that rich clothing of grey and gold which the 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 73 
 
 p.iinter ever loves, and added to it here and there a green drapery of 
 ivy. 
 
 Medmenham derives notoriety from events of more recent date than the 
 occupation of its “two monks, without goods, and without debt.” Here, 
 about the middle of the last century, was established a society of men of 
 wit and fashion, who assumed the title of Monks of St. Francis, and wore 
 the habit of the Franciscan order. Although it is said the statements 
 contained in a now forgotten but once popular novel — “ Chrysal ; or, the 
 Adventures of a Guinea” — were exaggerated, the character which the 
 “assumed” monks bore in the open world was sufficiently notorious to 
 justify the worst suspicions of their acts in this comparative solitude. 
 The principal members were Sir Francis Hashwood (afterwards Lord 
 Le Despencer), the Earl of Sandwich, John Wilkes, Bubb Doddington, 
 Churchill, and Paul Whitehead the poet. The motto, — “ Fay ce que 
 voudras,” — indicative of the principle on which the society was conducted, 
 still remains over the doorway of the Abbey House. Tradition yet 
 preserves some anecdotes illustrative of the habits of “the order,” and 
 there can be little doubt that this now lonely and quiet spot was the 
 scene of orgies that were infamous. 
 
 The Thames now flows through one of the richest of its many rich 
 valleys; and hence, until it arrives at Marlow, its windings are frequent 
 and of long continuance, — the flatness of the view being relieved, looking- 
 back, by the wooded slopes of Culham, and the distant Chilterns, in 
 Buckinghamshire. 
 
 The pretty and picturesque village of Hurley is now reached ; it is in 
 Berkshii’e ; another village, that of Harleyford, occupying the opposite 
 bank. Adjoining Hurley was Lady Place, formerly a priory for Bene- 
 dictine monks, more recently a stately mansion, but now indicated only 
 by aged garden-walls. The house was erected during the reign of 
 Elizabeth, on the site of the ancient convent, and out of the debris of 
 the buildings, by the then owner of the estate, Sir Richard Lovelace, — 
 one of the brothers in arms of Sir Francis Drake. “ He was a gentleman 
 of metal,” writes old Fuller, “who had the success to light on a large 
 amount of the King of Spain’s cloth of silver, — I mean, his West Indian 
 
 T, 
 
74 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 fleet, — wherewith he and his posterity are warmer to this day.” He was 
 created Baron Lovelace, of Hurley, by Charles I. ; but during the reign 
 of his two successors, the house w r as the meeting-place of the several 
 peers and leading commoners whose movements led, eventually, to the 
 “calling in” of the Prince of Orange. “The meetings were held 
 under cover of splendid hospitalities, by which the noble owner of the 
 mansion is said to have exhausted his fortune.” The more secret and 
 perilous consultations were held in a vault underneath, originally the 
 burial-place of a monastery. The house is described by Boydell, in 
 
 BISHAM ABBEY. 
 
 1794, as “a spacious edifice. The hall, which occupies a dispropor- 
 tionate part of it, is a noble room, with a light gallery round it. The 
 saloon is wainscoted W'ith English oak, which was sent over in panels to 
 Italy to be painted, according to the family tradition, by Salvator Itosa. 
 The views are undoubtedly Italian, and in the bold style of that great 
 master.” The structure, having become much dilapidated, was altogether 
 removed in the year 1837. 
 
 Passing Temple Hall, the seat of the old and honourable family of 
 Williams, we arrive at Bisuam Abbey, one of the most picturesque objects 
 
 I 
 

THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 75 
 
 on the Thames, and also among the most venerable and interesting of all 
 the ancient remains which time and use have consecrated. 
 
 It is impossible to tread these grounds, sombre as they are, — for the 
 hues of dark and heavy trees are in solemn harmony with the ancient 
 church, and the almost as venerable mansion, — without being impressed 
 by a degree of awe amounting to sadness. What a story might be told 
 by those old walls, of the 
 times when the Templars 
 revelled in their glory ! 
 
 Immediately on leaving the 
 shadows which the tall trees 
 of Bisham throw on the 
 water, the eye and mind 
 are relieved by the grace- 
 ful suspension bridge which 
 spans the Thames at Mar- 
 low — Great Marlow. It is a 
 quiet town ; no doubt lonely 
 enough, hut the neighbour- 
 hood is full of interest. Some 
 thirty or forty years ago, 
 however, it was as full of 
 bustle and excitement as it is 
 now of repose : for the Mili- 
 tary College was here, and 
 here some of the bravest and 
 best of our soldiers were edu- 
 cated. It was thus circum- 
 stanced, however, for no very long period — the establishment commencing 
 in 1799, and removing to Sandhurst in 1812. 
 
 Marlow is the very paradise of the Thames angler : perhaps no part of 
 the whole river, from its rise to its mouth, will afford him safer assurance 
 of a day’s sport; such sport, that is to say, as will content the unam- 
 bitious lover of “the gentle craft; ” for if he covet to excel in its loftier 
 
76 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 achievements he must “go farther a-field,” and make acquaintance with 
 streams more accommodating than that of the good and generous old 
 “ Father.” 
 
 Eut the Thames angler loves the river hereabouts, not only because it 
 seldom fails to fill his basket — here he obtaius all the other enjoyments 
 which our king of island rivers abundantly supplies. Does he seek 
 health and quiet ? — He finds them here. Does he love nature — the 
 rural sounds as well as rural sights that give pure and true enjoyment? 
 — They are here — everywhere. Does he seek to call up, in fancy, the 
 great of bygone ages — the worthies of his country, in pulpit, in senate, 
 or in arms — 
 
 “ The dead — 
 
 Who rule our spirits from their urns?” 
 
 Nowhere can he obtain so many associations with the heroic past. 
 
 Shade-Oak Ferry is next reached, and here the river begins to assume 
 
 COOKHAM CHl/KCH. 
 
 a more busy and active character — barges, punts, boats, “canoes,” and 
 racing-boats are more often encountered ; the shores are more populous 
 than they have been hitherto, and we gradually lose that sense of solitude 
 
THE BOOK OE THE THAMES. 
 
 77 
 
 with which the grand old “Father” has so continually oppressed us 
 higher up the stream. The woods of Hedsor — the seat of Lord Boston — 
 companion us for a long way, and for some miles we keep in sight a re- 
 markable structure which crowns the summit of a hill, — we learn that it 
 is nothing more than a summer-house, placed there for the sake of the 
 many views it commands ; but it looks like the huge ghost of some mighty 
 edifice which man has deserted. On the opposite bank — in Berkshire, 
 that is to say — is Cookham, a pretty village, with a fine old church. A 
 little lower down, and we row beside a lovely island of some acres in 
 extent ; it has been laid out in charming walks, with here and there seats 
 for rest, and summer-houses, — every corner planted with fair flowers, 
 shrubs, and cheerful evergreens. Another island — Formosa Island — 
 somewhat farther on, greets the voyager, and is also full of attractions. 
 
 We are now approaching that part of the Thames which supplies its 
 most abundant beauties — of mingled wood and water, hill and valley, 
 shrubby heights and richly cultivated fields. The river here closes in, 
 or seems to do so ; for although in reality wide, it is narrowed to the 
 eye by the steep hills which rise from the banks on either side, clothed 
 in varied foliage from the base to the summit. Those w r ho accuse our 
 great island river of insipidity, who, if they concede its claims to beauty, 
 deny its pretensions to grandeur, will do well to visit the scenery between 
 Hedsor and Maidenhead — to row between the thick woods of Taplow and 
 Cliefden, and, looking up, they will have no difficulty in imagining them- 
 selves in one of the grandest and richest, in picturesque attractions, of 
 our English lakes ; indeed, they will require only the near and distant 
 mountains to fancy themselves under the heights of Glena, in all-beautiful 
 Killarney. Well may we rejoice to scan the charms of our glorious river, 
 and ask the aid of Poetry and Art to give them fame and power. But 
 the painter will fail here. He may select graceful nooks, and a thousand 
 objects will, singly or in groups, present themselves as fitting subjects for 
 his pencil ; but he cannot convey to the eye and mind a j ust idea of the 
 mingled grandeur and beauty of this delicious locality ; while the poet 
 will find only themes which have been, ever and everywhere, the chosen 
 and the favoured of his order. 
 
78 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Nature here has been liberally aided by successive lords, from that 
 Duke of Buckingham by whom “ Cliefden’ s proud alcove” was made 
 
 “ The bower of wanton Shrewsbury and love,” * 
 
 to that of the Duke of Sutherland — its present owner. If those who row 
 past these charming woods, — and note what has been done by taste, in 
 association with wealth, to render every part delightful, — ascend any of 
 
 CLIEFDEN. 
 
 the many heights and examine the “prospect,” near or distant, their 
 enjoyment will be largely enhanced. It is impossible, indeed, to 
 exaggerate the beauty and harmony of the foliage which everywhere 
 surrounds us, — 
 
 “ Beautiful in various dyes, 
 
 The gloomy pine, the poplar blue, 
 
 The yellow beech, the sable yew, 
 
 The slender fir that taper grows, 
 
 The sturdy oak with broad-spread boughs; 
 
 And beyond the purple grove, 
 
 Haunt of Phyllis, Queen of Love ! n 
 
 * “ Cliefden House ” was built by Charles Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, — that Yilliers so familiar to 
 all who read the records of pernicious follies and degenerating vices during the reign of Charles II. — 
 
 “ In squandering wealth was his peculiar art.” 
 
 The house has been twice destroyed by fire; that which now surmounts the hill was built a few years 
 ago, for the Duke of Sutherland, by the architect Barry. 
 

 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 79 
 
 But there are here hundreds of other trees which the poet could not 
 commemorate, for they were unknown to England in his time. All 
 climes and countries have contributed to the wealth of foliage at 
 Cliefden, — woods, lawns, and gardens are enriched by tributes from 
 every land to which enterprise has conducted British science, to gather 
 treasures converted from exotics into subjects naturalised and “ at 
 home.” * 
 
 Leaving this scene of mingled grandeur and beauty, to which the 
 Thames voyager will often look back, we pass through Boulters Lock, and 
 arrive at the bridge at Maidenhead. 
 
 Maidenhead is a small town, at some distance from the bridge — a 
 structure of much elegance, built in 1772, from the designs of Sir 
 
 MAIDENHEAD BRIDGE. 
 
 Robert Taylor. The name is said to be a corruption of that which 
 it bore so early as the reign of Edward III. — Maydenliithe, hithe being 
 the Saxon word for haven or port : Camden, however, fancifully derives 
 its title from the veneration paid there to the “head” of a Virgin, 
 
 * It is worth noting that Thompson’s masque of “Alfred” was first acted at Cliefden, and that, 
 consequently, within those walls was first sung the national song of “ Buie Britannia,” composed by 
 him and set to music by Dr. Arne, on the occasion of its performance. 
 
80 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 one of tho “ eleven thousand ” whose bones may be now seen at 
 Cologne! The view from the bridge, both above and below, is very 
 beautiful : on the one side the trees rise from the river-bank to the 
 wooded heights that surround Cliefden; while on the other the pretty 
 islet, the Church of Bray, the bridge of the railroad, the near meadows 
 and distant hills, attract the eye, and tempt the passenger to linger awhile 
 in admiration. 
 
 In this district, indeed, are to be found all the several advantages 
 which the noble river so abundantly supplies : a channel of deptli 
 sufficient for any required traffic, a populous and flourishing town close 
 at hand, pleasant cottages, comfortable inns, and villas, grand or graceful, 
 scattered at convenient intervals, by the bank-sides, on the slopes of 
 adjacent elevations, or crowning distant hills in the midst of “ patrician 
 trees” and “plebeian underwood;” while the heart-cheering turrets of 
 Windsor Castle occasionally come in sight, to add to the interest of the 
 scenery the lessons and the pleasures of association. The laud is thus 
 fertile in themes, and the water is hardly less so : the barges, the punts, 
 the gay wherries, the racing-boats are everywhere ; and perhaps iu no 
 part of the world are there to be obtained enjoyments so many or so full 
 —at once so quiet and so active — as are to be found in this part of the 
 Thames, where the venerable Father leads us to classic Eton and regal 
 Windsor. 
 
 The voyager will surely go ashore at Bray, not only to examine the 
 venerable church, but to speculate concerning that renowned vicar who 
 has obtained a larger share of immortality than any of his predecessors 
 or successors. The vicar has indeed no tomb in his church to perpetuate 
 his memory, but his fame is preserved in song; and its application is not 
 uncommon, even now-a-days, to those who find it convenient to change 
 opinions.* * Bray Ciiurcii is a large and interesting structure, exhibiting 
 
 * The vicar was named Symond Symonds. The authority for his history is Fuller, who says,— 
 “The vivacious vicar thereof, living under King Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen Mary, and 
 Queen Elizabeth, was first a Papist, then a Protestant, then a Papist, then a Protestant again. He had 
 seen some martyrs burnt (two miles off) at Windsor, and found this fire too hot for his tender temper. 
 This vicar being taxed by one for being a turncoat and an inconstant changeling— ‘ Not so,’ said he, 
 
 * for I always kept my principle, which is this — to live and die the Vicar of Bray.’ ” 
 
 The popular ballad is essentially incorrect in all its details, and, by changing the true period of the 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 81 
 
 vicar’s residence here, has represented him even worse than he was. It makes him commence his 
 career in the time of Charles II., and continue a series of changes, religious and political, until the 
 accession of George I. The song is, therefore, chiefly political, its concluding lines being the decla- 
 ration — 
 
 “ That whatsoever king shall reign, 
 
 I’ll be the Vicar of Bray ! ” 
 
 Bitson, who was such an industrious collector of our English popular songs and then- music, has given 
 the words and tune of this song in his “ Select Collection of English Songs,” 1783 ; but he was not able 
 to say who was its author, although it was evidently written not more than sixty years before that 
 period. It was most probably the production of one of the men of talent who visited Tonson at his 
 house, close by Bray. 
 
 family is dated 1592 ; and there is a very interesting one to Arthur Page, 
 “of Water Okelye, in the parish of Braye,” and Sesely his wife, 1598, 
 which shows that the name of Page was known in the neighbourhood of 
 
 that mixture of architectural features so frequently observable in build- 
 ings which have survived many ages of change. Inside are several old 
 monuments, the best being the brass of Sir John Foxley and his two wives 
 (of the early part of the fourteenth century) ; the figures occupying a sort 
 of shrine, based on a column, which is again supported by a fox, in 
 allusion to their names. Another fine brass to members of the Norreys 
 
 BRAY CHURCH. 
 
 M 
 
82 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 name to tlie island is still preserved unimpaired ; the monkeys continue, 
 on canvas, to do the ■work of men — to hunt, to shoot, and to fish : and no 
 doubt the “monkey-room,” which is the salon of parties, is an attraction 
 profitable to the landlord, although he may not be successful in conveying 
 assurance, as he seeks to do, that these pictures arc the works of Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds.* “ Marlborough’s Duke ” must have expended large 
 
 Windsor when Shakspere chose it for one of the chief characters of his 
 immortal drama. The tomb of Henry Partridge, of the same era, is 
 remarkable for an enumeration of the virtues of the deceased, the chief 
 place being given to the assertion that he 
 
 “Next to treason, hated debt.” 
 
 Soon after leaving Bray wo step ashore at “Monket Island:” the 
 fishing-lodge built here by the third Duke of Marlborough is now “ a 
 house of entertainment ; ” and the grounds, although limited in extent, 
 are famous for “picnics” iu summer seasons. The room which gives a 
 
 MONKEY ISLAND. 
 
 * In WestalTs “Views on the Thames” the paintings are said to be the work of “a French artist 
 named Clermont.” Although clever in design, they are of no great merit in execution. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 83 
 
 who took an enlarged view of “the trade,” and succeeded in achieving a 
 celebrity and fortune previously unknown to it. “Genial Jacob,” as he 
 is termed by Pope, succeeded in gathering around him the chief talent of 
 his day, and the famous “Kit-cat Club” was formed in his house: it 
 consisted of noblemen and gentlemen, with the Earl of Dorset at their 
 head; and under the plea of literary joviality they banded for a higher 
 purpose — the defence of the House of Hanover. They took their name 
 from one Christopher Catt, who originally supplied them with a simple 
 
 sums upon this “fancy,” for the lodge is built of cut stone, and is 
 evidently of a costly character ; moreover, there is a detached building, 
 now used as a billiard-room, but in which, in the palmy days of the 
 island, the guests probably had their banquets : it is a structure of much 
 elegance, and no doubt was a charming retreat. 
 
 Of the many villas that intervene between Maidenhead and Windsor, 
 the only one that requires especial notice is Down Place, once the 
 residence of the famous bookseller, Jacob Tonson, the first of his fraternity 
 
 DOWN PLACE. 
 
84 
 
 THE 1S00K OF THE THAMES. 
 
 dish — “mutton-pies,” which always appeared upon their table. They 
 had thirty-nine members, all distinguished for rank, learning, and wit, 
 many holding important offices under Government. Tonson acted as their 
 secretary, and Sir Godfrey Kneller painted the portraits of the members, 
 which were afterwards engraved and published.* Down Place is now a 
 mansion of large size, to which many additions have from time to time 
 been made. Our engraving is of the older part, where the wits and men 
 of learning assembled under the protecting wing of the great bibliopole. 
 A charming view of Maidenhead is obtained from any of the adjacent 
 heights ; while a still more attractive object is presented to the eye on 
 
 the side opposite; for we are approaching “Regal Windsor.” We have 
 passed Surly Hall — now an inn, well known not only to the youths of 
 Eton, but to all oarsmen of the river. Before we reach Windsor, 
 
 BOVENEi’ LOCK. 
 
 * These portraits were long preserved at Down Place, and were all painted of one uniform size (the 
 term used to designate a certain canvas, kit-cat sice), measuring 28 or 29 inches by 36. The whole 
 of this fine and interesting series of portraits is now in the possession of a descendant — W. R. Baker, 
 Esq., of Bayfordbury: they are all in excellent condition, pure and clear; but the finest is certainly 
 the portrait of Tonson himself, who is represented holding a folio copy of “ Paradise Lost,” of which 
 he had the copyright, and by which he greatly added to his large fortune. His features exhibit a com- 
 bination of shrewdness and inflexibility very characteristic of the man. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 85 
 
 however, we pass through Boveney Lock. There was a fishery here 
 from a very early period ; and it is recorded in the annals of Windsor 
 that, in 1201, William, the son of Richard de Windsor, gave two 
 marks to the king, in order that the pool and fishery in Boveney might he 
 in the state it was wont to be during the reign of Henry II. The men of 
 this, and all other villages near Windsor, were accustomed to give toll at 
 Windsor of all their merchandise. 
 
 Having passed the lock, we are at once in the midst of “ a bustle.” 
 We are ignorant that the “ rule of the road ” is not the law of the Water, 
 and run much risk, in our comparatively unwieldy barge, of upsetting 
 one or more of the tiny cockleshells in which a youth is seated, rowing 
 up the stream ; we cross rapidly over and give free passage — not 
 without an audible reproach for our want of skill in Eton boat lore 
 — to those 
 
 “ Who foremost now delight to cleave 
 With pliant arms thy glassy wave.” 
 
 The youths are on the banks as well as on the water of old Father 
 Thames : 
 
 “ A sprightly race, 
 
 Disporting on thy margent green, 
 
 The paths of pleasure trace.” 
 
 Out of this “careless childhood,” or heedless youth, must issue much 
 of the after-renown of England — upon them mainly rest the hereafter 
 of her fate. The embryo statesman is here; the philosopher in the 
 bud ; the hero in the eruca ; the germ of that greatness, the high 
 destiny of which is to preserve the honour and extend the glory of a 
 kingdom upon which the sun never sets ; and as boy after boy passes — 
 the father of the man — one can scarcely fail to murmur a hope, with a 
 faith, in his career — 
 
 “ Hail to thee who shaU be great hereafter! ” 
 
 In the lives of a very large portion of the foremost men of our country, 
 it is an incident that they were “ educated at Eton ; ” and to have been 
 an “ Eton boy ” is the proud boast of many who have gathered laurels in 
 peace and in war. 
 
 Eton is in Buckinghamshire; Windsor is in Berkshire. The river 
 
86 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 divides the counties — a very pretty bridge joining the towns. The 
 College oe Eton owes its birth to Henry VI., — there 
 
 “ Grateful Science still adores 
 Her Henry’s holy shade,” — 
 
 the charter of incorporation bearing the date 1441. The buildings 
 consist of two quadrangles, in one of which are the chapel and school, 
 with the dormitory of the foundation-scholars ; in the other are the 
 library, provost’s house, and lodgings of the fellows. The chapel is a 
 handsome Gothic edifice, and is that which “ tells ” so well in all 
 
 Ei'uN COLLEGE. 
 
 pictures of the place. A statue in bronze of the royal founder occupies 
 the centre of one of the quadrangles. Few buildings are more happily 
 situated; — “the meadows” adjoin it, the Thames rolls its refreshing 
 waters immediately in front, while always in view are the towers of 
 “ regal Windsor,” inciting to that loyalty which is ever the associate of 
 virtue in the young. 
 
 Windsor Castle, occupying a hill to which there is an ascent from 
 all sides, is seen from every part of the adjacent country, and the several 
 distant heights ; it is always a pleasant sight, not only as regards the 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 87 
 
 scenery, but with reference to its many “ happy and glorious ” associations 
 with the past, and its suggestions of hope and joy as the favourite dwelling 
 of the Queen, and the royal family of England.* Here, in its gardens, 
 walks, or rides, they may he seen daily, during the period of their resi- 
 dence, protected by the loyalty that has become affection, and the duty 
 that is true pleasure. 
 
 The earliest engraved representation of Windsor Castle is that to be 
 found in Braun’s “ Civitatis Orbis Terrarum,” 1594, which was drawn 
 by a foreign artist — George Hoefnagle — for that work. "VVe copy the 
 
 ANCIENT WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 portion that exhibits the walled forecourt, with the Chapel of St. George 
 in the midst. The round tower beyond, as depicted in the same view, is 
 very much beneath its present altitude : it was raised during the reno- 
 vations by George IV. The walls here seen are the oldest remains of 
 the fortifications. The towers which are so thickly set along them are 
 of two characters — round and angular. The former are probably the 
 remains of the castle as enlarged by Henry III. The portion inhabited 
 by royalty beyond this consisted, in the reign of Elizabeth, of a 
 
 * Until recently, there was no worthy History of Windsor — a singular deficiency in our literature. 
 The want has, however, been at length supplied : two large volumes have been recently published, 
 entitled, “ Aunals of Windsor ; being a History of the Castle and Town, with some Account of Eton and 
 Places Adjacent. By Robert Richard Tighe, Esq., and James Edward Davis, Esq.” They exhibit 
 amazing research, and include every topic, important or trifling, desirable to illustrate the castle-palace. 
 They contain many prints, plans, and maps, and may be considered as entirely exhausting the subject. 
 From this work we have borrowed much, and gratefully acknowledge our debt to the accomplished and 
 indefatigable authors. 
 
88 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 conglomerate of square and round towers, the work of successive ages of 
 change, which adapted the fortress-home of the earlier kings to the more 
 secured and refined life of the days of the “ Lion Queen.” The terrace 
 is represented in this curious print as a simple embankment supported by 
 wooden piles, with a row of rails to 
 protect promenaders from a fall into 
 the ditch below. The town at this 
 time appears to have been a collec- 
 tion of small cottages, and a shep- 
 herd reposes with his sheep in the 
 foreground of the view, while mounted 
 courtiers pursue the deer in the 
 park, accompanied by huntsmen who 
 run on foot beside them. Such 
 was the Windsor of the days of Shak- 
 spere. The present aspect of the 
 castle is widely different ; but, during 
 every change, there has been one 
 striking feature preserved — the old 
 Bell Tower, which we here en- 
 grave. It formed one of the most 
 ancient defences ; and is seen in the THE BELL T0 ' VEK - 
 
 view engraved on the previous page; it is now one of the most conspicuous 
 points of the castle when viewed from the river, or seen in its full pro- 
 portion as the visitor wends his way up the main street of the town to 
 the principal entrance. This ancient erection was originally called 
 Clure, or Clewer Tower, and subsequently Julius Caesar’s Tower. This 
 western extremity of the castle, with its walls and towers, is the only 
 portion of the building that has retained the original features of the 
 edifice, as erected in the thirteenth century. Only a few years ago the 
 walls were hidden by houses built close upon them, but they were all 
 removed in 1851, the walls were again exposed, and the narrow, winding 
 Thames Street widened and improved thereby. This north-western 
 tower has long been used as a belfry and clock-house, — probably from 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES, 
 
 89 
 
 the time of Edward III., when it is certain there was a clock at 
 Windsor, since in the last year of his reign the sum of £50 was expended 
 upon a new bell for it ; and there is reason to believe that the castle 
 clock has always occupied the same situation. 
 
 The bell tower, anciently “the curfew tower,” was in early times the 
 prison of the castle ; and in the Ckypt underneath, the cells are still perfect 
 in which state prisoners were confined. On the stone walls are many 
 initials and dates, several so far back as a.d. 1600, but none earlier, 
 
 Cftl PT IN BELL TOW EK. 
 
 except such as are undoubtedly forgeries. The accompanying engraving 
 will convey an idea of this interesting interior, — in which, by the way, a 
 subterranean passage has recently been discovered, said to lead under 
 the Thames to Burnham Abbey, distant three miles, and supposed to 
 have been constructed to facilitate the escape of the garrison at a period 
 of anticipated peril. Messrs. Tighe and Davis, speaking of this tower, 
 remark that “ the lower story has remained intact from its foundation. 
 It consists of a chamber twenty-two feet in diameter, vaulted on plain 
 massive stone ribs ; the Avails twelve feet and a half thick, with arched 
 recesses, terminating in loop-holes. The whole is constructed with chalk, 
 
 x 
 
90 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 laced and arched with freestone, and is a perfect and most interesting 
 specimen of the architecture of the period.” 
 
 Camden conjectures, “plausibly enough,” that Windsor derived its 
 name from the winding shores of the adjacent river, being by the Saxons 
 called “ Wyndlcshora ; ” in very ancient documents it is also so termed; 
 and by Leland, Windelesore. The earliest notice of “ Wyndlcshora ” is 
 to be found in the “deed of gift,” by which the Confessor presented it to 
 the monks of St. Peter, Westminster, he having a residence here. It 
 did not, however, continue long in their possession, for the Conqueror, 
 
 WINDSOR CASTLE. 
 
 very soon after he subjugated England, “ being enamoured of its situation, 
 its convenience for the pleasures of the chase, the pureness of the air 
 and its vicinity to woods and waters,” obtained it “in exchange,” 
 bestowing on the monastery Wakendune and Fcringes, in Essex. He at 
 once commenced building a castle on the pleasant site ; and in the fourth 
 year of his reign kept his court there, and held there a synod : for eight 
 centuries and a half, therefore, Windsor has been the palace of the British 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 91 
 
 sovereigns, and its history is in a great degree that of the kingdom over 
 which they ruled.* 
 
 In the prodigious pile which now covers the hill, there can he little 
 resemblance to the castle in which the first William received his proud 
 Norman barons, and the humbled Saxon “ thegns ” he had subdued. It 
 was not until King Henry I. had enlarged it “ with many fair buildings,” 
 and kept his Whitsuntide there, in the year 1110, that it became famous 
 as the royal residence. He was married to his second queen at Windsor, 
 in 1122, and five years afterwards he held another “ solemn feast ” at the 
 castle, when David, king of Scotland, and the English barons, swore 
 fealty to the king’s daughter, the Empress Maud, at which time Windsor 
 was esteemed the second fortress of the kingdom. More than one par- 
 liament was held here in this reign ; it was within its walls that John 
 angrily awaited the meeting of his barons at Runnymcde, they having 
 refused to trust themselves by visiting the king in his stronghold, and 
 the king merely leaving the fortress to append his signature to Magna 
 Charta, and returning sulkily to his fastness. During the barons’ wars 
 the garrison was lost and won by both parties in turn. The peaceful 
 days of the first Edward note only the records of tournays and residence 
 here. His successor had several royal children born here ; “ Edward 
 of Windsor ” was his eldest, who afterwards figures so nobly in English 
 history as Edward III. The castle derived accessions of strength and 
 beauty from many succeeding monarchs. By the third Edward it was 
 almost entirely rebuilt : the famous William of Wykeham being clerk to 
 the works, “ with ample powers, and a fee of one shilling a day whilst at 
 Windsor, and two shillings when he went elsewhere on the duties of his 
 
 * The seal of the Corporation of Windsor is here engraved. It 
 will be perceived that the castle forms the principal object. The 
 inhabitants were first incorporated by Edward I., when Windsor 
 was made the county town until 1314, when Edward II. transferred 
 it to Reading. The genuine old name of the town, slightly Latin- 
 ized into “ Wyndlesorie,” appears on this seal. The borough sends 
 two members to parliament. Its principal public structure, the hall 
 and com -market, was built by Sir Christopher Wren, in 1686. The 
 town has been but little changed during the present century; but 
 numerous villas have been erected in the immediate neighbourhood, 
 and the locality has at length become fashionable. Strange that it 
 was not so long a^o 
 
92 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 office ; ” his clerk receiving three shillings weekly. As evidence of the 
 liberty the king’s subjects then enjoyed, it may be stated that “three 
 hundred and sixty workmen were impressed to be employed on the 
 building, at the king’s wages : some of whom having clandestinely left 
 Windsor, and engaged in other employments to greater advantage, writs 
 were issued prohibiting all persons from employing them on pain of 
 forfeiting all their goods and chattels.” Good old times ! 
 
 In the great civil war the castle was garrisoned for the parliament, 
 and was unsuccessfully attacked by Prince Rupert in 1642. Six years 
 afterwards it became the prison of Charles I., who here “kept his 
 sorrowful and last Christmas.” 
 
 After the Restoration, the second Charles restoi'cd the castle from the 
 state of dilapidation in which he found it. But for its present aspect we 
 arc mainly indebted to his Majesty George IV., who, by aid of his 
 architect, Jeffrey Wyatt, afterwards Sir Jeffrey Wyattvillc, and “as- 
 sisted ” by copious parliamentary grants, gave to the palace its high 
 character; Art contributing largely to the advantages it received from 
 Nature. It is, however, to be regretted, that these restorations were not 
 postponed to recent times, when Gothic architecture is so much better 
 understood ; we may well imagine how infinitely more perfect the struc- 
 ture would have been if the successor of William of Wykeham had been 
 Gilbert Scott, and not Sir Jeffrey Wyattville. To describe Windsor 
 Castle is foreign to our purpose ; it would demand a volume instead of a 
 page ; and there are many guide-books that do so with sufficient accu- 
 racy. Visitors are admitted freely to examine all the more ordinary 
 apartments ; and these are richly decorated by works of Art. The cor- 
 ridor contains a large collection of paintings by many of the old masters, 
 mingled with several of our own time, — the portraits of Lawrence, and 
 the commemorative pictures of Wilkie, Leslie, and Winterhalter. During 
 a considerable portion of the year, Windsor Castle is the residence of the 
 Sovereign. It is unnecessary to say, that “the apartments,” ordinarily 
 called “private,” but which are occasionally, and under certain restric- 
 tions, shown to visitors, are fitted up with a degree of graceful refinement 
 unsurpassed in any mansion of the kingdom. They will not indeed vie in 
 
WINDS! Il; 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 93 
 
 costliness of decoration, and extragavance of ornament, with many of the 
 continental palaces ; there is here no lavish expenditure, and but little of 
 that “ display ” which excites more of wonder than admiration ; but there 
 is an elegant “fitness” in all things, appertaining more to comfort than 
 to grandeur, and belonging less to the palace than the “home.” But in 
 furnishing and decoration, in the several chambers for state purposes, and 
 in all they contain, there is amply sufficient to make the subject satisfied 
 that the sovereign is worthily “ lodged ” when at Windsor, to rejoice that 
 it is so, and fervently to pray that so it may continue to be through many 
 generations yet to come. 
 
 Windsor Castle has been always described as the only royal residence 
 in England ; certainly, it is the only appanage of the crown that can be 
 considered on a par with those regal dwellings in which other European 
 sovereigns reside, or compared with some of the seats of our nobility 
 scattered throughout the several shires. It is in truth a palace worthy 
 of our monarchs, rising proudly on a steep which commands prospects 
 innumerable on all sides. There is perhaps no single spot in our island 
 from which can be obtained so grand an idea of the beauty and the wealth 
 of England : 
 
 “ And ye, that from the stately brow, 
 
 Of Windsor's heights th’ expanse below 
 Of grove, of lawn, of mead survey, 
 
 Whose turf, whose shade, whose flowers among 
 Wanders the hoary Thames along 
 His silver-winding way.” 
 
 But the value of Windsor is largely augmented by the associations that 
 connect it with the past. Many of the illustrious names of ten centuries 
 have their records here : here the Order of the Garter was instituted ; 
 Windsor Castle is the temple of the order ; true heroes, many, have 
 been numbered among the “ poor knights,” who have still their “ con- 
 venient lodgings within the walls.” * 
 
 * This establishment was formed by Edward III. They were originally called “ Mi/ites Pauperes ,” 
 subsequently “ Alms or poor Knights of Windsor.” but are now distinguished only as “ military 
 knights of Windsor.” Their number is thirteen of the royal foundation, and five of the foundation of 
 sir Peter Le Muire, in the reign of James I. There is also an establishment (founded by the will of 
 Mr. James Travers), but not within the walls, for seven naval officers. By one of the early regula- 
 tions it was declared that “ the knights should be elected from gentlemen brought to necessity through 
 adverse fortune, and such as bad passed their lives in the service of their prince.” This wholesome 
 
94 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 St. George’s Chapel is in the lower ward of the castle ; it was begun 
 by King Edward IV., the older chapel, founded by Henry I., having 
 gone to decay, as well as that rebuilt by Edward III. The king, deter- 
 mined that his new building should equal any fabric then in existence, 
 appointed the Bishop of Salisbury to superintend it : so costly and 
 laboi’ious was the work that it was not completed till the reign of 
 Henry VIII., the roof of the choir being the last thing done, in the 
 year 1508. Sir Reginald Bray, the prime-minister to Henry VII., 
 succeeded the Bishop of Salisbury as clerk of the works, and he 
 was a liberal contributor to its completion ; his cognizance occurs on 
 several parts of the building. Some remains of the older chapel of 
 Henry III. are still, however, believed to exist on the north side of the 
 dean’s cloisters, and at the east end of the chapel behind the altar, where 
 one of the doors is covered with old wrought iron- work of much beauty. 
 
 The chapel is the mausoleum of many kings. The earliest buried 
 here was the unfortunate Henry VI. ; but his tomb has been long 
 since destroyed, and the royal arms, under an arch, marks the spot 
 where it once stood. In the north aisle is the tomb of Edward IV. ; 
 it consists of a simple slab, over which is erected an open screen, 
 highly enriched with Gothic tabernacle-work in iron, which has been 
 gilt. In the year 1789 the vault below was opened, and the skeleton 
 of the king discovered in a plain leaden coffin. In a vault beneath 
 the choir King Henry VIII. lies buried ; he has no monument, but 
 one was in course of erection by him when he died, which he directed 
 to be made more stately than the tombs of any of his predecessors. 
 They were all despoiled and destroyed in the great civil war. One of 
 his queens, Jane Seymour, is also buried at 'Windsor, and so was King 
 Charles I.* 
 
 rule lias been seldom adhered to until of late years. During the sovereignty of Queen Victoria no 
 claims have been regarded except those of merit and service. It is a gratifying sight, and one of which 
 all Englishmen may be rightly proud, to see these gentlemen thus comfortably provided for in their 
 honoured age. 
 
 * The tomb-house now used as a royal burial vault was originally designed by Wolsey for himself. 
 It was fitted as a chapel by James II., and, after his abdication, allowed to decay, until George HI., in 
 the year 1800, gave orders that it should undergo a thorough repair, in order to be used as a place of 
 interment for himself and family — a purpose to which it has been since dedicated. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 95 
 
 St. George’s Hall was built by Edward III. as a banqueting-room for 
 the Knights of the Garter, when they met to celebrate the festival of 
 their patron annually at Windsor. The Old Seal of the warden 
 and College of the Chapel of St. George, 
 at Windsor, is curious, as depicting the 
 king kneeling to the patron saint of 
 England. It has that minutiae of detail 
 which gives so much interest to these 
 early works. At this time the festival 
 was celebrated with tournay and pro- 
 cessional display; many noble foreigners 
 were invited to he present, and the 
 utmost splendour of feudal pomp was 
 lavished on the ceremony. Eor more 
 than two centuries feasts of this kind 
 were annually held at Windsor. The 
 new statutes of the order, made by 
 Henry Till., precluded the necessity 
 of holding the great feast here ; and in 
 the reign of Elizabeth it was arranged 
 to be held wherever the court happened to be. So showy were these 
 displays, that knights-eompanions were allowed to bring fifty followers ; 
 and admission to the order has always been considered one of the 
 highest honours an English sovereign can bestow. Their number (ex- 
 clusive of foreign princes) is limited to twenty-five. The stalls of the 
 sovereign and the knights-eompanions of the Garter are situated in the 
 choir of St. George’s Chapel. Each stall is enriched with carving, and 
 behind is the armorial bearings of each knight, and above the silken 
 banner emblazoned with his arms. The royal stall is on the right of 
 the entrance, and is distinguished by a larger banner of velvet, mantled 
 with silk. 
 
 Of the Order of the Garter, Selden says: — “It exceeds in majesty, 
 honour, and fame, all chivalrous orders in the world,” and has “pre- 
 cedence of antiquity before the eldest rank of honour of that kind 
 
 EDWARD III. AJJD ST. GEORGE. 
 
9G 
 
 THE BOOK OF TIIE THAMES. 
 
 anywhere established.” Of course a chivalric institution of the middle 
 ages, so entirely adapted to the knight-errantry then practised, has lost 
 much of its meaning and use in modern times — it is now simply a dis- 
 tinction ; hut it is the noblest the sovereigns of these realms can bestow, 
 and among the brotherhood are enrolled the names of sovereigns of other 
 kingdoms, who willingly admit the honour accorded by such companion- 
 ship. The origin of the order is still involved in doubt. The recent 
 historians of Windsor, whose work we have several times quoted, tell 
 us, “the annals of the institution, the chroniclers of the time, and 
 the public records, do not afford the slightest information on the subject; 
 and although some writers on the order have treated with contempt 
 the romantic incident to which its extraordinary symbol has been 
 ascribed, they have neither succeeded in showing its absurdity, nor 
 suggested a more probable theory. The popular account is, that during 
 a festival at court, a lady happened to drop her garter, which was 
 taken up by King Edward ; who, observing a significant smile among 
 the bystanders, exclaimed with some displeasure, ‘ Honi soit qui mal y 
 pense ’ — Shame to him who thinks ill of it.’ In the spirit of gallantry 
 which belonged no less to the age than to his own disposition, conformably 
 to the custom of wearing a lady’s favour, and perhaps to prevent any 
 further impertinence, the king is said to have placed the garter round 
 his own knee.” 
 
 But greatest among all the many attractions of Windsor Castle are, 
 perhaps, those which are presented to the visitor by the views he obtains 
 from the terraces, or any of the adjacent heights, and especially from the 
 battlements of “ the Bound Tower,” — 
 
 “ Of hills and dales, and woods, and lawns, and spires, 
 
 And glittering towns, and silver streams.” 
 
 He stands in the centre of a panorama of unequalled beauty, and he is, 
 as he ought to be, proud of his country. Look where he will, some 
 object of deep and exciting interest meets his eye. Immediately beneath 
 him, and seeming as if part of the grand demesne, is Eton, with its many 
 associations of the present and the past, and fertile in hopes of the future. 
 Here Wellington learned his first lessons in war ; here, in his boyhood, 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 97 
 
 the victory of Waterloo was fought and won ; here William Pitt, and 
 here also his great father, were the embryo pilots who steered “ the 
 ship” through the storm; here Bolingbroke, Camden, Walpole, Fielding, 
 Boyle, Fox, Porson, Canning, and a host of other immortal men, laid 
 the foundations of that renown which became the glory of their country. 
 Farther on is Slough, where, in a comparatively humble dwelling, the 
 Herschels held commune with the stars. Yet a little farther is the 
 churchyard in which Gray lies, — that of “ Stoke Pogis,” — beneath the 
 tomb he erected to his mother and his aunt ; it is the square tomb seen 
 
 * 
 
 STOKE POGIS CHURCH. 
 
 in our cut, and is without his name upon it, but a plain tablet on the 
 wall records that “ opposite this stone, in the same tomb upon which he 
 has so feelingly recorded his grief at the loss of a beloved parent,” his 
 remains were deposited, August, 1771. The churchyard is well woi'thy 
 
 o 
 
98 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 °f a pilgrimage — it is a pleasant field-walk of about two miles from 
 Slough, and retains many features alluded to in the famous “ Elegy.” 
 Still nearer Windsor is the ivy-covered tower of Upton, which is very 
 ancient, and bears traces of Norman workmanship. It is believed by 
 many to have been the one the poet had in mind, if not in eye, while 
 writing. It certainly accords better than that at Stoke Pogis with his 
 description — it is, and has been for centuries, “ ivy-mantled.” Upton 
 was one of his early haunts ; the gloomy character of the church and 
 
 illli 1VY-MAKTLKD TON Eli. 
 
 neighbourhood in twilight must have been well suited to the thoughts 
 of the poet in this his most popular work. In the distance are the 
 hills and woods that shadow the cottage in which Milton wrote ; 
 the mansion in which Edmund Waller and Edmund Burke lived and 
 died; and the little graveyard of “the Friends,” where William Penn 
 is at rest. 
 
 Iver, Langley, Bulstrode, Dropmore, Burnham, and Dorncy — places 
 honoured in history and cherished in letters — will be pointed out to those 
 who examine the rich landscape in this direction. Looking eastward 
 and southward, other historic sites, and other examples of beautiful 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 99 
 
 scenery, come within ken. On a level with the eye is a range of hills 
 — St. Leonard’s Hill, Highstanding Hill, Priest’s Hill, and Cooper’s 
 Hill ; while farther eastward are St. Anne’s Hill, and St. George’s Hill. 
 At St. Leonard’s Hill dwelt “ for a season ” the Earl of Chatham, “ the 
 great father of a greater son there, too, is Binfield, where Pope “lisped 
 in numbers,” — 
 
 “ First in these fields he tried the sylvan strain ; ” 
 
 under the trees of Windsor Forest, in his boyhood, he conned his lessons, 
 accompanied by his tutor, an old French Homan Catholic priest. 
 Cooper’s Hill overlooks Hunnymede, commemorated in the beautiful 
 verse of Denham — 
 
 “ Here his first lays majestic Denham sang; ” 
 
 while St. Anne’s Hill looks down on the town of Chertsey, where dwelt 
 in calm retirement, after seasons of exciting labour and thought, Charles 
 James Fox, and where 
 
 “ The last accents flow’d from Cowley’s tongue.” 
 
 Gazing up “the Long Walk,” — that noble tree-avenue of three miles, 
 — the visitor sees the statue of George IV., a colossal work, standing on 
 a rock, and placed on a mound ; from this point we obtain a peep into the 
 ancient glades, and contemplate those venerable sovereigns of the forest, 
 who wore their green leaves in glory when the Conqueror was at Hastings. 
 
 To enumerate half the places seen from Windsor Castle, and which 
 time, circumstance, and some heroic or grateful memory have rendered 
 famous, would occupy pages of our tour. We may not forget, however, 
 that the sight is often cheered and gratified while wandering over the 
 view from “Windsor’s heights” by those well-managed and productive 
 “ farms,” which, under the personal care of the good Prince Albert, were 
 made examples and lessons to the English gentleman. 
 
 Hut to the present age, and the existing generation, the castle at 
 Windsor is suggestive of holier and happier feelings than those we derive 
 from the past. The most superb of our palaces is accepted as a model 
 for the home of the humblest, as of the highest, British subject; the 
 lowliest in position, as well as the loftiest in rank, deriving their best 
 example from those graces and virtues which are adornments of the 
 
100 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 proudest mansion of the realm. And not alone is this “home’ pre- 
 eminent for domestic happiness : the personal character of the Sovereign, 
 and that of her illustrious Consort,* influence every class and order of 
 society ; they are the patrons of all improvements for the good ol their 
 country ; all its charities are helped and forwarded by them ; under their 
 just and considerate rule, at a time when every state in Europe was 
 
 HERNE’S OAK: THE EARLIER. 
 
 in peril, there was no disaffection at home : loyalty has become the 
 easiest of English duties; those who teach the present generation the 
 old and venerated lesson, “Fear God and honour the Queen,” have 
 to contend against no prejudice, to reason down no opposing principle, 
 to overcome no conscientious scruples that rational liberty is abridged by 
 earnest and devoted homage to the Crown. It is the universal heart 
 of her kingdom which utters the “common” prayer — “that God will 
 
 * We have not changed these remarks; although, since they were first printed, “ the good Prince 
 Albert” has been removed from earth: his influence remains; and, in a hundred ways, continues to 
 benefit the country, of which he was, for many years, so great a blessing. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 101 
 
 with favour behold our most gracious sovereign lady Queen Victoria ; 
 endow her plenteously with heavenly gifts; grant her in health and 
 wealth long to live, and strengthen her that she may vanquish and over- 
 come all her enemies.” 
 
 The “Little Park,” so called because of its immediate contiguity to 
 the castle, and to distinguish it from the “ Great Park,” is described as 
 
 HERNli's OAK. 
 
 about four miles in circumference ; it derives interest, in addition to its 
 intrinsic beauty, as the scene of those revels which Shakspere has 
 described in his “ Merry Wives of Windsor.” And here was the famous 
 tree “ Herne’s Oak ” — round which “ the hunter,” “ sometime a keeper 
 here, was doomed to walk “ all the winter time.” The veritable tree was 
 cut down by an unfortunate mistake at the close of the past century. Ire- 
 land, in his picturesque views of the Thames, published in 1792, describes 
 it as then standing, and gives an engraving of it, which we copy. 
 
102 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 From the parks at "Windsor we are naturally led to some consideration 
 of Windsor Forest: there is nothing of its class in the kingdom more 
 entirely beautiful, — in a word, it is worthy of the magnificent castle to 
 which it is attached. Although now of comparatively limited extent, it 
 was “anciently” among the largest forests of the kingdom.* “ It comprised 
 a part of Buckinghamshire, as well as a considerable district of Surrey, 
 
 WICKLIFF'S OAK. 
 
 and ranged over the south-eastern part of Berkshire, as far as Ilungerford.” 
 In Surrey it included Chertsey, and its eastern boundary is said to be 
 marked by an aged oak-tree, still standing, at Addlestone, and under the 
 boughs of which tradition states that Wickliff preached. The reader will, 
 no doubt, be gratified if we submit to him a picture of that tree also. 
 
 Leaving the bridge that connects Windsor with Eton, — the Castle to 
 the right, in Berkshire, and the College to the left, in Buckinghamshire, 
 ■ — we pass a long and narrow and prettily wooded ait, Itonmey Island, so 
 well known to Etonians, and dear also to brethren of the angle, — for here 
 good old Izaak passed many pleasant days of spring and summer with his 
 
 * One of the most beautiful spots in Windsor Forest is “ the Heronry ; ” the birds are still numerous 
 there. It lies in the vicinity of the red brick tower at the western extremity of the park. The neigh- 
 bouring scenery strongly calls to mind the sylvan descriptions in “ As You Like It.’’ It is probable that 
 Shakspere derived many of his ideas of forest scenery from Windsor Forest. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 103 
 
 beloved friends, Cotton, Donne, and that great and excellent man, Sir 
 Henry Wotton, appointed by James I. Provost of Eton, “as the fittest 
 place to nourish holy thoughts, and afford rest to his body and mind,” 
 after his busy life as an ambassador. We may fancy the four high and 
 pure souls luxuriating under the shadows of refreshing trees, their simple 
 enjoyments augmented by rare converse concerning Nature and her works: 
 
 WINDSOR LOCK. 
 
 kindly, and loving, and gentle hearts ; all in their decline (for Sir Henry 
 was sixty when he took orders and office there), yet fresh and green, and 
 young in age; each illustrating that passage which he who was “chiefest” 
 among them so sweetly and so truly wrote : — 
 
 “ Tliis man is free from servile bands, 
 
 Of hope to rise or fear to fall; 
 
 Lord of himself, though not of lands — 
 
 And having nothing, yet hath all.” 
 
 We soon pass through Windsor Lock, still lonely and retired, although 
 so much of business and bustle is close at hand. 
 
104 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Under the railway bridge of the Great Western we then row, between 
 another ait — “ Blackpott’s ” — and “ the Home Park,” until we arrive at 
 Victoria Bridge, a new and exceedingly graceful structure, which con- 
 nects Windsor with the pretty and picturesque village of Datchet. The 
 bridge, which has its companion a mile or so lower down the stream — the 
 Albert Bridge — was built in 1851 from the design of Thomas Page, Esq., 
 civil engineer, the acting engineer of the Thames Tunnel, and the builder 
 of Westminster Bridge. “ Datchet Mead ” is the name given to the 
 lowland on the banks of the Thames between the river and the Little 
 Tark. It is the scene of FalstafFs adventure in the buck-basket, and 
 
 VICTORIA BRIDGE. 
 
 “ the muddy ditch close by the Thames’ side” existed until the time of 
 Anne, when it was converted into a covered drain, and known as Hoghole. 
 The embankment raised to form the approach to this new bridge destroyed 
 the last vestige of this hole, together with the small brick arch over it. 
 The scenery above this bridge is very charming — quiet lawns, rich woods, 
 and the noble castle, meeting the eye on all sides. Passing other pleasant 
 places, and some graceful islets, which give their charms to the river 
 scenery, we arrive at Old Windsor. 
 
 Old Windsor — as the village is still called, although Windsor proper 
 has gradually lost its prefix of “ New,” by which it is distinguished in 
 all earlier documents, and by which it is indeed even now “officially” 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 105 
 
 described — was formerly a place “ of consequence.” At the Conquest it 
 contained a hundred houses, “ twenty-two of which were exempt from 
 taxes — out of the rest there went thirty shillings.” It was a manor 
 belonging to the Saxon kings, and they are conjectured to have had a 
 palace here from a very early period. A few serfs and swineherds dwelt 
 in straggling huts near the old palace or manor-house of the Saxon kings 
 at Old Windsor, tending their swine in the woods, which, stretching 
 southwards and westwards, formed the outskirts of the Royal Forest of 
 Windsor. It is certain that Edward the Confessor some time kept his 
 court here, and it was that sovereign who presented the manor to the 
 Abbot of Westminster, to increase the wealth of the monastery he had 
 there founded. The site of the palace at Old Windsor is not known with 
 certainty. A farm-house, which until recently stood west of the church 
 and near the river, surrounded by a moat, probably marked the site. 
 Scarcely raised above the level of the Thames, which flows close to it and 
 supplied the moat with water, the palace had no natural defence, and was 
 used rather as a convenient spot for hunting and hawking than as a place 
 of strength. When the Conqueror was firmly fixed upon the throne, he 
 obtained the land from the monastery in exchange, and commenced 
 building the Castle of Windsor on the elevation in the vicinity so 
 peculiarly adapted for the site of a castle, according to the established 
 rule of these defences. But the palace at Old Windsor was not deserted 
 by royalty until long after the Castle was built. The probability is, that 
 this castle was a simple military defence, and had no conveniency for 
 residence until Henry I. completed, in 1110, additional buildings, and 
 royally opened his home at Whitsuntide ; after which we hear little of 
 Old Windsor, except that the manor passed into a variety of hands, by 
 whom it was held from the king by the service of finding a man with 
 lance and dart to attend the royal army. Since the fourteenth century it 
 has been held on lease under the crown. 
 
 Perhaps there are not so many dwellings in Old Windsor now as there 
 were when the Norman took possession of England : and naturally and 
 rationally preferring the height to the dell — to overlook the Thames rather 
 than submit to its occasional inundations — commenced the fortress that 
 
 P 
 
106 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 has endured for eight centuries and a half, without having encountered 
 any of those “ battles, sieges, fortunes,” to which so many other “ strong 
 places” have succumbed. Yet in Old Windsor there is nothing old ; we 
 search in vain for any indications of antiquity; there is no “ bit of ruin” 
 to carry association back ; if we except the venerable Ciruncn, which 
 is not, however, of very early date, and is rather picturesque than 
 beautiful. 
 
 In the churchyard was buried that unhappy lady — fair and frail — 
 who, as an actress and an author, obtained some share of notoriety at the 
 close of the past century, and who was celebrated by the name of 
 “ Perdita,” from her clever impersonation of that character in Shakspere’s 
 
 OLD WINDSOR CHURCH. 
 
 “ Winter’s Tale.” A tomb covers her remains, but it is overgrown 
 with nettles: there have been none, for half a century and more, to 
 care for the last resting-place of unhappy “ Alary Robinson.” There 
 are some other graves of interest in this lonely graveyard, but none of 
 men or women of note ; but the rude forefathers of the hamlet have been 
 laid there during many centuries. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 107 
 
 A mile or so from Old Windsor, and we enter the county of Surrey, 
 on the right bank — Buckinghamshire remaining with us some way 
 farther on its left ; the two great metropolitan counties then continuing 
 on either side until, east of London, they meet the shires of Essex and 
 Kent. The first object that arrests the eye of the tourist is the spire of 
 the church at Egham ; but his attention is soon directed to an object of 
 even greater interest — Cooter's Hill. The hill is indebted for much 
 of its fame to the poem of “ majestic Denham it has other, and earlier, 
 claims to distinction: although little more than “a steep,” its slopes are 
 gradual and ever green : it is beautifully planted — perhaps was always 
 
 VIEW FROM COOPER’S HILL. 
 
 so — in parts ; and is now crowned by charming villas, lawns, and 
 gardens : it was, however, altogether a poetical fancy which thus 
 pictured it — 
 
 “ his shoulders and his sides 
 A shady mantle clothes; his curled brows 
 Frown on the gentle stream, which calmly flows; 
 
 While winds and storms his lofty forehead beat — 
 
 The common fate of all that’s high and great.” 
 
 Denham, although born in Dublin, where his father was some time Chief 
 
108 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Baron of the Exchequer, was “native” to this neighbourhood: here his 
 ancestors lived and were buried. At Egham Church there are several 
 monuments to their memory : his own dust reposes in Westminster 
 Abbey. If he bestowed celebrity on Cooper’s Hill, he derived hence the 
 greater portion of his fame : the poem was published at Oxford in 1643, 
 during the war between the King and the Parliament ; its popularity 
 was rapid, and has endured to our own time. Dryden described it as 
 “ the exact standard of good writing ; ” and “ Denham’s strength ” was 
 lauded by Pope. 
 
 But Cooper’s Hill has an advantage greater even than that it derives 
 from the poem — 
 
 “ The eye, descending from the hill, surveys 
 Where Thames among the wanton valleys strays ; ” 
 
 for at its foot is immortal Runnymede, and midway in its stream is the 
 little island on which, it is said, John, the king, yielded to the barons, 
 who there dictated to the tyrant terms that asserted and secured the 
 liberties of their country. Hunnymede is still a plain level field, un- 
 broken by either house or barn, or wall or hedge. We know not if by 
 any tenure it has the right to be ever green ; but we have always seen it 
 during many years as a fair pasture — upon which to-day, as seven cen- 
 turies ago, an army might assemble. 
 
 The small ait or island — Magna Charta Island — is situate midway 
 between Hunnymede and Ankerwyke — now a modern mansion of the 
 Ilarcourts, but once a nunnery, founded by Sir Gilbert de Montfichet 
 and his son, in the reign of Heury II. Even the walls are all gone; 
 but some ancient trees remain, under one of which tradition states 
 the eighth Henry met and wooed the beautiful and unfortunate Anne 
 Boleyn. 
 
 It is a mooted point whether the barons held the island, or the king 
 selected it as the place where the eventful meeting was to take place. 
 In Tiglie and Davis’s “ Annals of Windsor,” the name of Runnymede, 
 which the field then bore, and still retains, is said to be derived from 
 Win and mede, signifying in Anglo-Saxon, the Council Meadow. It is 
 probable, therefore, that Edward the Confessor occasionally held his 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 109 
 
 witan or council there during his residence at Old Windsor, and that 
 the barons chose the ait as well on account of its previous association 
 with those very rights they met to assert, as because it was a convenient 
 distance from Windsor, sufficiently near for the king, but far enough 
 removed to prevent any treacherous surprise by his forces. The early 
 
 MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND. 
 
 historians, indeed, expressly assert that the spot was chosen by the 
 barons, the king, according to some, having suggested Windsor as the 
 place ol meeting. According to local tradition, the conference took 
 
110 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 place and the charter was signed on a little island in the river near 
 Ankerwyke, and opposite the meadow, and now called Magna Charta 
 Island. The Charter bears date June 15, 1215. It is certain that 
 John “took refuge in Windsor Castle in 1215, as a place of security 
 against the growing power of the barons ; ” nor did he quit the protection 
 its walls afforded him until after the signing of Magna Charta. The 
 result of this great political gathering is one of the events in the 
 world’s history. Hence, as Hume but coldly writes, “ very im- 
 portant liberties and privileges were either granted or secured to every 
 order of men in the kingdom : to the clergy, to the barons, and to the 
 people.” 
 
 A little below Ankerwyke, the Coin, which divides the counties 
 of Buckingham and Middlesex, joins the Thames. The river rises 
 near the small market town of Chesham, Bucks, and, passing by 
 Cherreys, waters the town of Bickmansworth, Herts, reaches Uxbridge, 
 flows by the once famous village of Iver, refreshes the villages of 
 Drayton and Harmondsworth, and, gathering strength, “ goeth,” to 
 borrow from old Leland, “ through goodly meadows to Colnbrook, and 
 so to the Thames.” 
 
 There is little to interest the voyager after he leaves this interesting . 
 neighbourhood, gradually losing sight of Cooper’s Hill, until he approaches 
 Staines. 
 
 And at that ancient town we soon arrive ; — its bridge and its church- 
 steeple are in sight ; but before we reach them there is an object standing 
 on one of the aits that claims our especial attention. We must step 
 ashore to examine it, for it is the Boundaey Stone of the City of London ; 
 and here its jurisdiction ends — or did end, we should rather say, for by 
 a recent enactment all its rights and privileges, as regard the river 
 Thames, were transferred to “ a Commission.” It is to be hoped that 
 the “improving” spirit of the age will not proceed so far as to remove 
 this ancient boundary mark ; but that the inscription it still retains — 
 “ God preserve the City of London ” — will be uttered as a fervent prayer 
 by generations yet to come : for, of a truth, upon the prosperity of the 
 metropolis of England depends the welfare of the kingdom. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Ill 
 
 Staines — or, as it is written in old records, Stanes — is on the Middlesex 
 side of the river, — a busy and populous town, with a venerable and 
 picturesque church. A handsome bridge connects it with the county 
 of Surrey, from whence there are direct roads to Windsor, Egham, 
 and Chertsey. This bridge was erected in 1832, George Rennie being 
 the engineer. It was opened in state by their Majesties King William IY. 
 and Queen Adelaide. “ The bridge consists principally of three 
 extremely flat, segmental arches of granite, the middle arch being of 
 seventy-four feet span, and the lateral ones sixty-six feet each ; there 
 are also two adjoining semicircular arches, each ten feet in the span, 
 
 THE BOUNDARY STONE. 
 
 for towing-paths. Besides these, there are six brick arches of twenty 
 feet in the span, two on the Surrey side and four in Middlesex, to 
 admit the water to flow off during land-floods.” Our engraving is 
 taken from “above bridge,” and underneath one of the arches is seen 
 the comfortable little inn, “ The Swan,” well known to all brethren 
 of the angler’s craft. 
 
 Staines was the site of one of the earliest bridges in England. The 
 
112 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 
 
 Roman road to the west crossed the Thames here, and the Roman 
 station at this place is called in the Itinerary of Antoninus, Tonies, so 
 that even then there was a bridge across the river. The Roman bridges 
 
 STAIKES UKlUGi:. 
 
 in England seem to have been most commonly wooden, supported on 
 stone piers. 
 
 The river proceeds hence between low hanks, which are frequently 
 inundated during winter, until we reach the lock at “Penty-Hook” — 
 Penton-Hook — an artificial passage by which boats are enabled to avoid 
 a “ long round ” of a mile or so. 
 
 From Penty-Hook there is nothing to interest the voyager until he 
 reaches the pretty Ferry at Laleham. He may, if he pleases, step 
 ashore at the clean and neat ferry-house here pictured, and either dine 
 on the bank, or in one of the small rooms, to which access is readily 
 obtained. In any case he will do well to look about him. The steeple 
 
 
 I 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
f HERTS KY BRIDGE. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 113 
 
 of a church adds its eloquent grace to a pleasing although flat landscape : 
 it is the church at Laleham. On the opposite side is the square tower of 
 Chertsey Church. Cattle are feeding on the luxuriant grass in Chertsey 
 Mead, or cooling themselves in the shallow stream ; the ferry-boat is 
 conveying foot passengers only, for the river here is not deep, and a 
 mounted traveller may cross it, swimming merely the small “bit” that 
 forms the channel of the barges. Rising just above him is St. Anne’s Hill 
 — so long the happy and quiet home of Charles James Fox, and now the 
 property of his descendant, Lord Holland. Looking eastward, he has in 
 
 7 N 
 
 LALEHAM FERRY. 
 
 view the wooded rise of Woburn, and farther on that of Oatlands. 
 Immediately beside the banks, however, there is nothing to claim 
 attention until he arrives at Chertsey Lock, right under which, 
 apparently (for there is here a fall of some magnitude), is Ciiektsey 
 Bridge. 
 
 Here we may rest awhile, and resume our voyage downward, admir- 
 ing, as we pass, the pleasant woods and wooded heights of Woburn, 
 and welcoming another of the river’s many tributaries — the Wey, which 
 joins the Thames a mile or so below the bridge at Chertsey. The Wey 
 rises in Hampshire, about a mile from Alton — “ famous for ale.” It 
 
 9 
 
114 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 passes through Farnham, Godalming, Guildford, Woking, Byfleet, and 
 "Weybridge, -where it is joined by a small streamlet — the Bourne, and also 
 by the Basingstoke Canal. 
 
 The Wey enters the Thames at a mill in the curve of the stream, but 
 the ordinary course for boats is to the lock at Shepperton. The woody 
 grounds of Oatlands now begin to rise on the right, aud a short distance 
 to the left is Shepperton Cherch and village. 
 
 The distance to Shepperton by -water from Chcrtsey Bridge is about 
 four miles; but the direct way by land is not more than a mile and 
 
 CHEKTSEY BKIUOrE. 
 
 a quarter. Another turn of the river brings us to Lower Halliford. 
 The river is now free of any striking feature until we approach the 
 long bridge at Walton : the village is half a mile inland, and hidden 
 from view. At a sharp turn of the river before we reach the bridge is 
 Coway Stakes. 
 
 Before we pass under the bridge at Walton, we are called upon to 
 leave the boat, and walk a brief distance to visit the village and the 
 church : both are full of interest. In the village is the house of the 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 115 
 
 President Bradshaw ; at Ashley Park, not far distant, the Protector is said 
 to have some time resided; at Hersham, in the vicinity, lived William 
 Lilly, the astrologer, — 
 
 “ A cunning mun, hyght Sidropliel, 
 
 That deals in Destiny’s dark counsels, 
 
 And sage opinions of the moon sells,” — 
 
 and his remains lie in Walton Church. 
 
 After leaving Walton, we pass between low lands for the distance 
 of about two miles, and arrive at Sunbtjry — a pretty village on the 
 
 SHEPPEKTON CHUBCH. 
 
 Middlesex side. There is a weir of considerable length, and lower 
 down a lock: the lock has been recently constructed on “scientific 
 principles” — the waters being raised and lowered by machinery, 
 but the effect of the “improvement” is to embarrass and delay the 
 voyager. 
 
 Flat and uninteresting are the meadows that stretch away from the 
 Surrey bank of the Thames, as we voyage below Sunbury. Tall osiers, 
 for the most part, shut out all distant views from the water. The 
 villages of West and East Moulsey succeed in their turn. Between the 
 former village and the river lies the low open tract, or common, known 
 as Moulsey Hurst, and memorable chiefly in the annals of pugilistic 
 
WALTON CHURCH. 
 
 church of East Moulsey is small, and belongs altogether to a period in 
 which Moulsey itself was simply a country village, and had not yet risen 
 to the dignity of a metropolitan railway station. 
 
 Situated on the Middlesex side of the Thames, the village of ITampton 
 rises from the river’s edge, and its long series of villas, with their orderly- 
 looking trees and well-kept gardens, with here and there a fishing 
 cottage peering from beneath thick masses of overhanging foliage, skirt 
 the stream. 
 
 From the New ITampton road Bushy lark extends to Kingston and 
 Tcddington, and for the space of half a mile it reaches almost to the 
 
 116 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 encounters and horse-racing. East Moulsey has very rapidly increased 
 during the last few years. Fine trees have disappeared, and rows of 
 genuine suburban residences have sprung up in their places. A new 
 church of an agreeable aspect has been added to the group, near the 
 Hurst ; and opposite to the Palace of Hampton Court, a station of the 
 railway, and a cluster of hotels have established themselves. The old 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 117 
 
 river’s side, below the Hampton Villas. Of these residences the most 
 striking is “ Garrick’s Villa,” once the property and the favourite 
 residence of the great master of histrionic art. The garden, like its 
 neighbours, abuts upon the river ; but the house stands beyond the road, 
 and, consequently, it is separated from the water-side part of its grounds : a 
 communication, however, suggested by Dr. Johnson, exists in the form of 
 a very picturesque short tunnel under the road. Here, beneath a weeping 
 
 SUNhURy. 
 
 willow that droops gracefully into the water, stands “the Grecian rotunda, 
 with an Ionic portico” (it is really a little octagonal water-side summer- 
 house), which in Garrick’s time gave shelter to Roubiliac’s statue of 
 Shakspere, that has since been promoted to the Hall of the British 
 Museum. 
 
 The river hends slightly towards the south as its flows eastward, before 
 it changes its course below Hampton Court for a northerly direction. 
 More than one small island divides the stream at Hampton, and many 
 are the fishing-rods that may be here seen patiently extended over the 
 beautiful forget-me-nots, and other flowering plants which are grouped 
 with the thick rushes and bending willows. As we advance, we approach 
 
118 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 a second series of water-side residences, — the murmuring sound of the 
 “ overshot,” or weir, of the lock, becomes more distinct, — and our boat 
 enters and passes through “ Moulsey Lock,” the last but one on the 
 Thames. The banks are low on both sides of the river in this locality : 
 it would not seem as if the neighbourhood were healthy, yet it is by no 
 means otherwise ; “ the all-bountiful father ” carrying with him perpetual 
 “ freshness.” Under Ilampton Bridge we float, and in another minute we 
 
 have landed close to the principal entrance to the Palace of Hampton 
 Court. From the bridge itself, the view both up and down the stream 
 exhibits English scenery in its highest perfection. But we hasten 
 on to the Palace, passing a row of shops, hotels, and dwelling-houses. 
 “ Hampton Green ” opens out before us, stretching away to our left, 
 where it is hounded by a small cavalry barrack. In front of us are 
 more houses, and immediately beyond them appear the noble haw- 
 thorns and horse-chestnuts of Bushy Park. This “Green,” in the 
 olden time, was the tilting-ground ; it is now the scene of much 
 holiday merry-making during summer months. The palace stables stand 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 119 
 
 and here, also, the Low Country maids of honour and other ladies, who 
 in those days graced with their presence the English court, might con- 
 tinually he seen. Hence the place obtained the popular name of the 
 “ Frau Walk,” which has since degenerated into the “ Frog Walk,” by 
 which it is now known. 
 
 The associations of “ Royal Hampton’s pile,” which throng thickly 
 upon our minds, are not interwoven with deeds of chivalrous valour 
 or of military renown. “The o’er-great cardinal” and his unscru- 
 pulous master rise before us ; then come visions of the unfortunate 
 
 between the Green and the river. Here also are a few tolerable houses, 
 of which more than one promises the best of “entertainment,” 
 “provided at the shortest notice,” for visitors of all classes and of 
 all tastes. 
 
 The palace is shut off from the Green by a long and massive wall of 
 dark-red bricks, having in front of it a broad walk, now deeply shadowed 
 with noble elms and chestnuts, leading from the river to Bushy Park. 
 This was a favourite promenade with Wary, the consoit ot William III. ; 
 
 ENTRANCE TO HAMPTON COURT. 
 
120 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Charles, of phlegmatic William, of decorous Anne, and of the first 
 George with his broken English. Rich, indeed, is the palace of 
 Hampton Court in materials for a domestic history of almost unparalleled 
 interest. We can but glance at the more salient points in the sketch for 
 such a history. 
 
 In the time of Henry III. the manor of Hampton (“ Hamntone ” it is 
 written in the Domesday Survey) was held by the Knights Hospitallers 
 of St. John of Jerusalem, and from them Wolsey obtained a lease for 
 the purpose of building on the site of the old manor-house his stately 
 palace. The works were commenced about the year 1515, and they 
 were urged on with such rapidity that the cardinal shortly after made 
 Hampton his residence, or, as Skelton would have it, he held his “court” 
 there. The splendours of Hampton Court when in the hands of Wolsey 
 speedily produced that dangerous “envy” which in 1526 induced him 
 to present his palace with all its sumptuous furniture to the king. 
 Henry VIII. accepted the gift without hesitation ; and, in return, 
 graciously “licensed the lord cardinal to lie in his royal manor at 
 Richmond at his pleasure ; ” also permitting him occasionally to occupy 
 Hampton Court itself. In 1527, Montmorency, the French ambassador, 
 was received at Hampton Court in such a style that the Frenchmen did 
 “ not only wonder at it here, but also make a glorious report of it in 
 their own country.” 
 
 The great hall was built by Henry VIII., after the palace had come 
 into his possession, and lie added other buildings to the pile, “till it 
 became more like a small city than a house.” With his characteristic 
 selfishness, he also afforested the country around, converting a wide tract 
 of the adjoining lands into a chace, which he stocked with deer. Henry 
 spent much of his time at Hampton Court. There Edward VI. was 
 born, and there Jane Seymour died. With Edward himself Hampton 
 Court was a favourite residence, and so it continued to be during several 
 succeeding reigns. James I. held there the “conference” of 1604. 
 Many of both his happier and his most anxious days were spent there 
 by Charles I. In 1656 Cromwell purchased it, and made it his principal 
 abode. It was in equal favour with Charles II. after the Restoration ; 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 121 
 
 James II. resided there less habitually ; William III. and Anne may 
 be said to have made it their home. The first and second Georges 
 followed in the steps of their predecessors in so far as Hampton Court 
 is concerned. But since their time a change has come upon what Lord 
 Hervey (Pope’s “Lord Fanny”) was pleased to call the “unchanging 
 circle of Hampton Court.” The state apartments and the hall are 
 thrown open freely to the public ; and the rest of the palace is arranged 
 to form a series of residences for families who may be considered to 
 have claims upon their Sovereign and their country. Her Majesty the 
 Queen is known to feel a warm interest in Hampton Court, and the 
 appointments to the residences in the palace are made expressly by the 
 royal command. 
 
 The palace originally consisted of five principal quadrangular courts, 
 hut of these three only now remain. To these, however, must be added 
 a variety of offices, and many ranges of subordinate buildings. The 
 first and second courts are for the most part remains of the original 
 palace, with the exception of very questionable classic additions in the 
 second court and the great hall of Henry VIII. The third court is 
 the work of Sir Christopher Wren, and is a dull and heavy affair. 
 The hall has lately undergone a complete restoration, which has been 
 thoroughly well done : the grand open timber roof, the finely-propor- 
 tioned windows with their brilliant new heraldic glazing by Willement, 
 the showy array of banners, the groups of armour, and the quaint and 
 still bright-hued tapestry, all combine to realise the most romantic vision 
 of a palatial hall. Adjoining the hall is a truly appropriate with- 
 drawing room. 
 
 To the state apartments we ascend by the “king’s staircase,” at 
 an angle of the second court. A series of wretched allegories cover 
 the walls and ceilings of this staircase : they are the work of 
 
 Verrio.* We first enter the “ guard-chamber,” where there are some 
 
 * Verrio was one of the most famed of a school of artists, who, in accordance with a taste generated 
 at the court of Louis XTV., covered the walls and ceilings of English mansions with enormous alle- 
 gorical pictures. He has been immortalised by Pope in the lines descriptive of “ Timon Villa : ” 
 
 “ On painted ceilings you devoutly stare, 
 
 Where sprawl the saints of Verrio and Laguerre.” 
 
 R 
 

 122 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 HAMPTON COURT: GARDEN FRONT. 
 
 and the park. With these views we now hasten to form a more intimate 
 acquaintance. We descend by a different staircase, and passing along 
 the colonnades of the “fountain court,” we enter the gardens. They 
 are admirably kept, and their formality is both characteristic and 
 pleasing. There is a fountain in a circular basin opposite to the centre 
 of Wren’s facade ; and here are a brilliant throng of such gold and 
 silver fish as might have satisfied Wolsey himself with their size and 
 their lustrous hues. The gardens extend from the river to Bushy Park. 
 In front of the palace, and also reaching to the Thames as it sweeps 
 onward to Kingston, lies the “Home Fark,” with its splendid trees, 
 
 curious weapons of by-gone days. Here commences the miscellaneous 
 collection of pictures, some originals, others copies, many curious and 
 valuable, and more equally uninteresting and worthless, which cover 
 the walls of the long range of noble rooms. There are a few relics 
 of the state furniture also here, and a considerable quantity of fine china. 
 
 From many of the windows there are charming views of the gardens 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 123 
 
 noble deer, formal sheet of water, and the picturesque lodge of the 
 ranger. A noble terrace-walk passes in front of the palace, and on 
 reaching the river it is continued at right angles to its former course, 
 and parallel with the stream ; here, between the terrace and the “ Home 
 Park,” are some fine specimens of wrought-iron work ; the best of the 
 works have, however, been removed to South Kensington. Peturning 
 towards the palace, we observe the bell that summons the attendant 
 gardener who has the charge of the “private garden.” 
 
 The garden is well worthy a visit. It affords some fine views of the 
 palace, and it also contains the famed “vine,” which fills its ample hot- 
 house, and displays such a collection of clusters as it is probable never 
 elsewhere hung upon a single tree.* We return to the open gardens, 
 and walk past the palace. Leaving behind us a newly-built tower, we 
 
 enter the “ wilderness,” a thickly -planted space to the north of the main 
 edifice, where some of the finest trees in England are grouped together.f 
 At the extremity of this wilderness is the “ Maze.” J We need no guide 
 to lead us to the entrance that tempts all visitors to explore the intri- 
 cacies within ; for more than one of the pleasure-seekers of the day is 
 there before us, and their laughter is by no means kept within the hedges 
 of the maze, though it does not transgress beyond the bounds of modera- 
 tion. And this remark leads us to observe that the great boon of free 
 
 * This vine produces the grapes called the Black Hamburgh ; it spreads over a surface oi 110 feet, 
 and in some seasons has yielded more than 2,500 bundles of grapes. 
 
 t This wilderness was planted by King William III., with a view to hide the irregularities of the 
 north side of the palace, where the old domestic offices were situated. 
 
 % This is a curious relic of the ancient taste in gardening, and was planted in the reign of William 
 III. It consists of narrow 1 walks between tall clipped bushes, which wind intricately to the open space 
 in the centre. There is only one w'ay by which it may be reached, and any deviation leads to a stoppage 
 and a necessity for retracing the path. 
 
124 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 public access to Hampton Court Palace and Gardens is thoroughly appre- 
 ciated by the public. 
 
 From the “Maze” we cross over the Kingston Itoad into Bushy 
 Park, passing through a cluster of hotels, lodging-houses, and private 
 residences. Famous are the horse-chestnuts and thorn-trees of Bushy, 
 but fame has done them no more than justice. The thorns are sup- 
 posed to have given its name to the park. The fern here is picturesque, 
 and the deer abound on every side. Some of them are very tame ; 
 so much so that they will even eat from the hands of visitors who, 
 in the summer season, assemble for a sylvan repast beneath the trees. 
 There is a public drive across the park to Teddington, and more 
 than one foot-path promises a delightful walk to the pedestrian. 
 Opposite the principal entrance, in the great avenue, is the “Diana” 
 fountain, which stands in the midst of a large circular piece of water, 
 and exercises its vocation after a very agreeable manner. The lodge 
 and the stables of Bushy are separate buildings, and though rather 
 extensive, they do not claim any special notice, — except, indeed, to state 
 that the former was the favourite residence of William IY. and good 
 Queen Adelaide. 
 
 Bushy Park must be regarded as forming an integral part of the royal 
 domain of Hampton Court. Having traversed its pathways, and rested 
 in the shades of its trees, we retrace our steps to the palace, and return- 
 ing through its courts to the river where our boat awaits us, we set forth 
 on our voyage downward. The first object that attracts our notice is the 
 junction of the “silent mole” with the waters of the Thames. This 
 tributary, itself produced by the union of a numerous series of small 
 streams and brooks, some of which rise in Sussex, and others in Surrey, 
 assumes the importance of a river near Iteigate, in the latter county, 
 from whence its course lies in a north-westerly direction. Winding 
 amidst the lovely scenery of central Surrey, the Mole flows on past 
 Dorking, Leatherhead, and Cobham ; and then, taking its leave of bold 
 hills and rich woods and ancestral mansions, it hastens through the flat 
 region of the Moulseys towards the Thames. 
 
 We glide swiftly along between the Home Park and the pretty village 
 
HAMPTON’. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 125 
 
 the river, with the view of improving our acquaintance with Ditton. 
 In the Domesday Book it is stated that “ Wadard holds of the Bishop (of 
 Bayeux) Bitone , in the hundred of Kingstone ; ” and it included the 
 rich manors of Cleygate and Weston — the former belonging to the abbots 
 of Westminster, the latter to the nuns of Barking. The church is 
 “of remote origin, but has been greatly altered at different times, and 
 enlarged by additional erections.” It contains some remarkable tombs 
 and brasses, most of them of a late period. Our print exhibits the 
 long-famous inn, “The Swah ; ” and the stately mansion — “Boyle 
 Farm” — the residence of Lord St. Leonard’s. “The Swan” is, as we 
 
 of Thames Ditton. Once again we find ourselves amidst a flotilla of 
 punts, and great is the amount of serious fishing we observe to be going 
 on. On our right some small willow-bearing islands attract notice, and 
 we learn that these are spots famous in the history of Thames picnic 
 parties — so famous, indeed, that during the summer season they vie with 
 Bushy Park itself as scenes of much happy and harmless enjoyment of 
 this description. We pass the islands, and land on the Surrey bank of 
 
 THE SWAN AT DITTON. 
 
126 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 have said, “ famous,” but only in the records of the angler. Time 
 out of mind, Thames Ditton has been in favour with the punt-fisher, 
 not alone because sport was always abundant there, — its pretty aits, 
 close beds of rushes, and overhanging osiers being nurseries of fish, — 
 but because the river is especially charming “ hereabouts,” and there 
 are many associations connected with the fair scenery that greatly 
 augment its interest to those who enjoy the recreation of the “ con- 
 templative man.” 
 
 Esher is about two miles from Thames Ditton ; but those who voyage 
 the Thames will surely pay a visit to this village, charming for its 
 scenery, and deeply interesting from its associations. 
 
 There is little to attract the voyager between Ditton and Kingston. 
 The banks of the river are on both sides low, generally bordered with 
 rushes, with occasional aits, on which grow the “sallys” which supply 
 so many of the basket-makers of London. 
 
 Kingston is among the oldest of English towns ; and is said to have 
 been “the metropolis of the Anglo-Saxon kings.” It is difficult to say 
 what is meant by “metropolis of the Anglo-Saxon kings.” The metro- 
 polis of the kings of "Wessex, to whom Kingston belonged, is always 
 understood to have been Winchester, liut the kings would not necessarily 
 be crowned there, as that ceremony might take place anywhere within 
 the boundaries of their kingdom. Kingston seems, however, to have 
 been a famous place when the Homans found and conquered the Britons 
 in this locality. Some writers have advanced arguments for believing that 
 the “ford” which Caesar crossed was here, and not at Walton; and 
 indications of barrows, fosses, and ramparts of Roman origin, are to be 
 found in many places in the neighbourhood It is more than probable 
 that a bridge was here constructed by the Romans. The Saxons followed 
 in due course, and here they had many contests with their enemies the 
 Danes; but a.d. 838, Egbert convened at Kingston an assembly of eccle- 
 siastics and nobles in council,* and here, undoubtedly, some of the Saxon 
 
 • •• This record, in which the town is called • Kyningestun, famosa ilia locus,’ destroys the supposition 
 that it did not receive that appellation till the reign of King Athelstan, and proves that it was a royal 
 residence, or at least a royal demesne, as early as the union of the Saxon heptarchy.” — Lysons. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 127 
 
 kings were crowned : “ The townisch men,” says Leland, “ have certen 
 knowledge that a few kinges were crounid there afore the Conqueste.” 
 Its first charter was from King John, and many succeeding sovereigns 
 accorded to it various grants and immunities. During the war between 
 Charles I. and the Parliament, Kingston was the scene of several “fights,” 
 being always on the side of the king. The town is now populous and 
 flourishing, although without manufactures of any kind. Since the 
 establishment of a railway, villa residences have largely increased in the 
 neighbourhood ; and the two suburbs, Surbiton and Norbiton, are pretty 
 and densely-crowded villages of good houses. The church has suffered 
 much from mutilation and restoration ; it is a spacious structure, and was 
 erected about the middle of the fourteenth century, on the site of an 
 earlier edifice. Amongst the monuments is a fine brass, to a civilian and 
 his wife, of the year 1437. * Of existing antiquities there are but few: 
 county historians, however, point out the sites of the ancient Saxon 
 palace, “the castle,” the Jews’ quarter, and the Roman town Tamesa ; 
 and the game of “foot-ball,” it is said, is still practised by the inhabitants 
 on Shrove Tuesday, in commemoration of one of the feats of their 
 ancestors, by whom the head of a king-assassin was “kicked” about the 
 Saxon town. But perhaps the most interesting object now to be found 
 in Kingston is the “King’s Stone.” f It had long remained neglected, 
 though not unknown, among disregarded heaps of debris in “ the new 
 
 * It is to the memory of Robert Skeme, of Kingston, and Joan, his wife : she was the daughter of 
 the celebrated Alice Pierce, or Perrers, mistress to Edward III., and afterwards wife to Sir William de 
 Wyndesore. This brass abounds with beautiful details of costume, and records the day and year of 
 Robert’s death : — 
 
 “ May he in heaven rejoice who lived on earth sincere, 
 
 Who died upon the fourth of April, in the year 
 Of Christ, one thousand twenty score and thirty-seven.” 
 
 t The stone formerly used to stand near the church-door, and was from time immemorial regarded 
 as that upon which the Saxon Kings of Wessex were inaugurated according to the old Teutonic custom 
 — a custom long prevalent in Germany and the northern nations, and still adopted in the coronation of 
 the sovereigns of England ; the old sacred stone of Scone on which the Scottish kings were crowned, 
 was brought from thence by Edward I., in 1296, and placed beneath the English chair, where it 
 still remains. Kingston is expressly mentioned, in a charter of King Edred, a.d. 961, as the royal 
 town where consecration is accustomed to be performed. Speed records the coronation of nine sove- 
 reigns here; the first was Athelstan, by Aldhelm, Archbishop of Canterbury, a.d. 924, followed by his 
 brothers Edmund and Edred; then came Edgar, Edward the Martyr, his brother Ethelred If., and 
 Edmund II., in a.d. 1016. Two intervening kings, Edward the Elder and Edwy, are stated by the 
 same author to have been also crowned here, but this is more conjectural than strictly historic. Some 
 
128 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 courtyard,” when it occurred to some zealous and intelligent antiquaries 
 that so venerable a relic was entitled to some show of respect. It was 
 consequently removed from its degraded position, planted in the centre of 
 the town, and enclosed by a “suitable” iron railing. Kingston has 
 been of late very largely augmented in size : some thousands of new 
 buildings having been erected in the immediate neighbourhood : “ Kings- 
 ton-on-Thames ” and “ Kingston-on-ltailway ” being now two large 
 towns ; while Surbiton, close at hand, may be described as another. 
 
 Kingston Bridge, to which we conduct the tourist, is a convenient and 
 graceful structure, erected from the design of M. Lapidge, and opened, 
 in 1828, by the Earl of Liverpool, then High Steward of the borough. 
 It took the place of an ancient wooden bridge, the successor, it is 
 said, of one which the Saxons built to replace that which the Homans 
 had constructed. 
 
 And so we leave Kingston, looking back upon the pleasant and 
 prosperous town, pursuing our course downward between low banks, 
 with here and there a mansion of note, but meeting nothing for comment 
 until we approach Teddington ; its “lock” being the last — or, more 
 properly, the first — lock on the Thames. 
 
 It is a popular fallacy to derive the name of Teddington from Tide- 
 end town, from an idea that the first lock on the river being here, here 
 the “tide” may be supposed to “end.” In old records it is called 
 Todington and Totyngton.* The manor is supposed to have been 
 
 writers have deduced the name of the town from the stone, thus — King’s-stone ; but the proper deriva- 
 tion is clearly obtained from its name, which means 
 simply “a manor belonging to the king.” The 
 kings had manors scattered all over the country, 
 many of which still bear the name of Kingston, 
 which does not necessarily imply a town. In fact, 
 manor is perhaps the best translation of the word 
 tun. 
 
 Athelstan, the first of the Saxon kings crowned 
 at Kingston, was the first of the race who placed on 
 their coins the title of King of all England. The 
 various kingdoms of the heptarchy had by this time been consolidated, but he never actually possessed 
 the whole kingdom. We engrave two specimens of his silver pennies, on one of which he is styled 
 “ Athelstan Rex Saxonim,” and on the other, “ Athelstan Rex totius Britannia;.” Both inscriptions 
 are in an abbreviated form. 
 
 * " There can be no other objection to this etymology than that the place is called Tolynglon in all 
 records for several centuries after the name first occurs.” — Lysons. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 129 
 
 given to Westminster Abbey by Sebert, the first Christian king of the 
 East Saxons. The Chuech: is of common-place character. We have 
 engraved it, nevertheless, for it contains several remarkable and interest- 
 ing memorials, — among others a monument to “ Peg Woffington,” * — 
 and also because it is so familiar a friend to “brethren of the angle,” 
 who have long regarded the Deep under the weir at Teddington as 
 among the pleasantest of all their river memories. These memories are 
 in truth very pleasant, for although it has “ fallen from its high estate,” 
 
 KINGSTON BRIDGE. 
 
 and is hy no means as productive of sport as it used to be, there is still 
 plenty to be had in several “pitches,” where abound all the various 
 denizens of the populous river; while enjoyment is ever enhanced by 
 associations with the past, which are suggested at every spot of ground 
 beside which the punt is pushed or moored, f 
 
 Those who visit Teddington will do well to walk up the village and 
 
 * The tomb of “Mrs. Margaret Woffington, Spinster,” as she is termed upon it, is a plain oval 
 medallion. She died, aged 39, in the year 1760, and had achieved great popularity as an actress, par- 
 ticularly for the impersonation of male characters of the foppish type; her most celebrated part being 
 that of Sir Harry Wildair, in Farquhar’s play of “ The Constant Couple.” She was seized with the 
 indisposition which proved fatal to her when speaking an epilogue at Covent Garden Theatre. 
 
 t Teddington Lock is now a new lock, the venerable and picturesque having given way before the 
 
130 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 examine some ancient houses, with some of which enduring memories are 
 associated; especially they will ascend a small hillock to visit Strawberry 
 Hill — the favourite residence of Horace Walpole, built by him in 1747 ; 
 but afterwards enlarged and improved as his collections of vertu increased. 
 It is now the property of the Countess Waldegrave. 
 
 Pope’s Villa is the next remarkable residence after Strawberry Hill 
 is passed, from which it is distant but a very short walk. Pope died 
 
 TEDDINGTON CHURCH. 
 
 before Horace Walpole had completed his purchase ; but the house then 
 remained in the condition in which the former had left it. Our cut is 
 
 march ot •• improvement.” It is, as we have stated, the first lock on the Thames, 
 the reader to enumerate the several locks between Oxford and Teddington ; _ 
 
 Iffley. 
 
 Wallingford. 
 
 Shiplake. 
 
 Boulter's. 
 
 Sandford. 
 
 Cleeve. 
 
 Marsh. 
 
 Bray. 
 
 Abingdon. 
 
 Goring. 
 
 Hambledon. 
 
 Boveney. 
 
 Culhara. 
 
 Whitchurch. 
 
 Hurley. 
 
 Windsor. 
 
 Clifton. 
 
 Maple Durham. 
 
 Temple. 
 
 Old Windsor. 
 
 Days. 
 
 Caversham. 
 
 Marlow. 
 
 Bell Weir. 
 
 Benson. 
 
 Sonning. 
 
 Cookliam. 
 
 Penton Hook. 
 
 It may interest 
 
 Chertsey. 
 
 Shepperton. 
 
 Sunbury. 
 
 Moulsey. 
 
 Teddington. 
 
 For this list, ns well as for some other valuable information, we are indebted to “The Oareman’s 
 Guide,” a little book, so small as to fit the waistcoat-pocket, but which no voyager of the Thames 
 should be without. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 131 
 
 the road, and, decorating it with spars, it became “ the grotto,” so cele- 
 brated by his friends, and so ably described by himself, and immortalised 
 by the verse he wrote for it. 
 
 After Pope’s death the house was sold to Sir William Stanhope, who 
 added new wings to it, enlarged the gardens, and formed a second subter- 
 raneous passage. His daughter marrying the Right Hon. Welbore Ellis 
 (afterwards Lord Mendip), the estate passed into his hands, and he 
 guarded with jealous care every relic of Pope. At his death Sir John 
 Brisco succeeded to the ownership ; and when he died it was unfortunately 
 purchased by the Baroness Howe, in 1807, who at once ordered it to be 
 
 copied from an engraving exhibiting it as in Pope’s era. He purchased 
 this house in 1715, and removed to it with his parents from Binfield. 
 The h’gh road from Twickenham to Teddington passed in front of the 
 house, and the small piece of ground at the back, toward the Thames, 
 was all the garden Pope could command without crossing the road, where 
 the large garden was situated ; he accordingly formed a tunnel beneath 
 
 POl'E’S VILLA. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 13-2 
 
 destroyed, and erected a new mausion at the distance of a hundred yards 
 from the site. 
 
 Villas, many of them very fanciful in construction, now line the 
 Middlesex bank of the river — few, however, being seen on the Surrey 
 side — until we are at the populous village of Twickenham. 
 
 In the days of Pope and Walpole, Twickenham seemed likely to 
 realise the prediction of the latter, “that it would become as celebrated 
 as Baiae or Tivoli.” It was the fashion to construct residences on the 
 Thames banks, and to make the village a retiring place for the celebrities 
 
 TWICKENHAM CHUKCM. 
 
 of London. Hudson, the painter, and the early instructor of Sir Joshua 
 Beynolds, erected a dwelling near Tope’s Villa, and in close contiguity 
 to one built by Scott, “the English Canaletti,” as he was termed, and 
 the friend of Hogarth. Sir Godfrey Knellcr — “ Ivneller, by heaven, and 
 not a master, taught” — also retired to Twickenham to spend the latter 
 years of his life. 
 
 The parish Cimtcn is situated upon the edge of the river, but it is 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 133 
 
 almost bidden from view by a large island, sacred to picnic parties, and 
 known as Eel-pie Island, from the popular refreshment provided there. 
 It is of considerable length, and has a house for the entertainment of 
 water-parties, the whole of this “ ait ” being devoted to their service and 
 use. A narrow arm of the Thames divides it from the village of 
 Twickenham, and nearly opposite the middle of the island stands the 
 church, in front of which is the old vicarage with its gardens. The 
 church tower is an old stone fabric, apparently of the time of Henry VII. 
 The body of the church was rebuilt in 1715; it had fallen to the 
 
 HAM HOUSE. 
 
 ground on the night of the 9th of April, 1713, owing to neglect. It is 
 chiefly remarkable as the mausoleum of Pope and his family. They are 
 buried in a vault in front of the communion rails. Pope erected to the 
 memory of his parents a tablet in the east wall of the north gallery ; 
 and upon the north wall a monument was erected to the poet himself, by 
 Bishop Warburton. 
 
 On the right bank of the river, the long line of Petersham Meadows 
 terminates at the grounds of H.ui House, which is almost hidden in a 
 
134 
 
 THE HOOK OF TIIE THAMES. 
 
 mass of noble trees which surround the house and grounds with their 
 umbrageous foliage. This noble old mansion was built in 1610 (as 
 appears by a date over the princ ipal entrance) by Sir Thomas Vavasor, 
 who was appointed, with Sir Francis Bacon, one of the judges of the 
 Marshal’s Court in the year ensuing. It was sold to the Earl of Dysart 
 in the reign of James I., “ whose widow, Katherine, on the 22nd of 
 May, 1561, surrendered it to the use of Sir Lionel Tollemache, and 
 Elizabeth his wife, her daughter, who, in the year following, surrendered 
 
 OitLEAMS HOUSE. 
 
 it to the use of Sir Lionel’s will.” This daughter, by her second 
 marriage, became Duchess of Lauderdale, and was remarkable for the 
 political power she possessed, being one of the busiest women of a 
 busy age. 
 
 On the left bank a pleasant field-path leads to Richmond, over fertile 
 meadows, studded with noble mansions. The first of importance after 
 passing the ait is Orleans House, a noble mansion of red brick with 
 white quoins. Here resided the Princess of Denmark, afterwards Queen 
 Anne. The young prince, her son, used to amuse himself by exercising 
 a troop of boy soldiers on the ait we have spoken of. Caroline, Queen 
 of George II., was once entertained here by the then proprietor of the 
 mansion, who on that occasion built the octagon room, which forms 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 135 
 
 so conspicuous a feature in the view. It bears the name of Orleans 
 House, from having been rented by the Duke of Orleans at the com- 
 mencement of the present century ; and here Louis Philippe, afterwards 
 King of the French, passed some of the happiest years of a life of 
 unusual adventure. In the course of the changed fortunes that awaited 
 the family of that sovereign after his abdication of the throne of France, 
 the house has again become the home of one of his sons. Next is 
 Marble Hill; it was designed, and the building superintended, by Henry, 
 Earl of Pembroke, the estate having been purchased, and the house 
 erected, by King George II., for the Countess of Suffolk. 
 
 A very pleasant walk from Ham leads to the pretty and retired village 
 of Petersham, on the high road between Kichmond and Kingston. It 
 was famous in times long gone by, but is now chiefly remarkable for the 
 well-known establishment of Dr. Ellis — Sudbrook Park — renowned for 
 its “water cure,” by which many have obtained happiness with health. 
 We believe there is no place of the kind throughout the kingdom 
 better conducted ; the principle, adopted with so much success, is no 
 doubt greatly aided by the pure air, the tranquillity of umbrageous 
 walks, the close vicinity to Richmond Park, and that relief from 
 thought and labour which best ministers to disease, either of body or 
 mind. 
 
 Perhaps in England there is no single view so beautiful as that 
 obtained from the summit of Richmond Hill ; nay, it is scarcely too 
 much to say there is nothing more charming in the world. Such is the 
 opinion of many foreigners who have beheld the landscape attractions 
 of all lands, and such is surely that of those who, having travelled long 
 and far, return to their own country with a confirmed conviction that 
 Englishmen find nowhere any scenery so delicious as that they possess 
 “at home.” No doubt there is much that is wider, and broader, and 
 grander — more magnificent and more comprehensive — which voyagers 
 elsewhere may enjoy, but none within the same limits so gifted with 
 surpassing loveliness. The scene from Richmond Hill has, therefore, 
 been at all times a fertile theme of the poet and the painter, although 
 neither art nor language can render it sufficient j ustice. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 136 
 
 “ Heavens! what a goodly prospect spreads arourd 
 Of hills and dales, and woods and lawns, and spires, 
 And glittering towns, and gilded streams! ” 
 
 Such was the exclamation of one of the many poets who have offered 
 homage to “ the Hill ; ” we may quote another : — 
 
 “ Where Thames along the daisied meads 
 His wave in lucid mazes leads — 
 
 Silent, slow, serenely flowing, 
 
 Wealtli on either side bestowing.” 
 
 But, in fact, there are few whom the Muse has not stirred into life, 
 
 VIEW FROM RICHMOND HILL. 
 
 when gazing from either of the adjacent heights upon a scene so entirely 
 beautiful — at once so gentle and so grand, so graceful and so rich. 
 
 As we approach Richmond from Twickenham, and pass a slight 
 projection at Ham, we come in sight of “the ITill.” From the river the 
 rise appears very slight: on the summit are several good and “tall” 
 houses, the most conspicuous of which is the far-famed “ Star and 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 137 
 
 Garter” inn ; and here all visitors will linger, entering either its prettily 
 arranged grounds or its stately chambers for refreshment, and gazing 
 from one of its windows over the thick and apparently dense foliage 
 that seems to cover the whole valley underneath, through which the 
 all-glorious father meanders “silent, slow,” the source of that green 
 fertility which] makes the landscape “ beautiful exceedingly.”* “The 
 eye, descending from the hill,” marks the tortuous course of the river, 
 above and below, glances among “the palace homes of England,” and 
 
 BICHMOJsD HILL. 
 
 watches the gay boats, “of all sorts and sizes,” that float upon the 
 surface, issue from tiny creeks, or continue moored beside lawn-slopes : 
 gaze where we will, there is ever something to stir the heart, and justify 
 that love and pride of country which rivals or foes attribute to Englishmen 
 as a vice ! 
 
 The distant views from any of the heights are as fair and beautiful as 
 
 * So close are the trees, and so little can he seen of the intervening meadows and gardens, that a 
 story is told of an American from the Far West, whose eye, having been accustomed to endless and 
 trackless forests, saw the beauty as a blemish, and declared it to be his opinion that “ the valley wanted 
 clearing.” 
 
 T 
 
138 
 
 THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 those immediately around and underneath. Looking over ltichmond 
 Park we behold stately W indsor ; farther off, the hills of Buckingham- 
 shire — the historic Chilterns ; and nearer, those over Runnymede and 
 Chertsey. Turning eastward, we look on many of the steeps that, rising 
 above the Lower Thames, fling their shadows on the sails of a hundred 
 nations, thronging that part of the great highway of the world which 
 lies between the Nore and London Bridge. Surely the tourist may 
 exclaim, and justly, — 
 
 “ Earth hath not anything to show more fair," 
 
 challenging the wide world to produce a scene which so happily combines 
 the grand and the beautiful — 
 
 “ In wondrous perspective displayed, 
 
 A landscape more august than happiest skill 
 Of pencil ever clothed with light and shade : 
 
 An intermingled pomp of vale and hill, 
 
 City and naval stream, suburban grove, 
 
 And stately forest where the wild deer rove; 
 
 Nor wanted lurking hamlet, dusky towns, 
 
 And scattered rural farms of aspect bright.” 
 
 A gate on the summit of the hill leads into Richmond Turk. The 
 public enjoy a right of entrance, and it is pleasant to know that the 
 right is rarely or never abused. The park was first enclosed by 
 Charles I., but there were certain neighbouring owners who “ could not 
 be prevailed upon to alienate their property upon any terms.” His 
 Majesty, however, seems to have convinced those “village Hampdens ; ” 
 notwithstanding that the affair “made a great clamour, and the outcry 
 was that he was about to take away his subjects’ estates at his own 
 pleasure.” Jerome, Earl of Portland, was made the first ranger, in the 
 year 1G38. In 1619 the park was given “to the City of London, and 
 to their successors for ever.” At the Restoration it found its way back 
 to the Ciown, of which it is now a mere appanage of comparatively little 
 value, although her Majesty has sought to make it practically useful by 
 presenting some of its residences to men who’ are, or have been, bene- 
 factors of their country. 
 
 We must descend the hill and enter the ancient village — the now 
 populous town of Richmond. We cannot long delay, although it is full 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 139 
 
 of associations, any one of which might demand a chapter instead of a 
 line. It is, however, essential that we visit the Church, and then stroll 
 to the green, in order that we may stand on the site of the ancient 
 palace, “ to which the former kings of this land, being wearie of the citie, 
 used customarily to resorte, as to a place of pleasure, and serving highly 
 for recreation.” 
 
 At Richmond resided Nicholas Brady, and here he translated and 
 
 RICHMOND CHURCH. 
 
 versified the Psalms. Here lived, and in the church is buried, James 
 Thomson : * here he 
 
 “ Sung the seasons and their change ; ” 
 
 * Thomson lived in a small cottage in Kew Lane. It has been enlarged ar.d altered since his time. 
 There was no monument to his memory in the church, until the Earl of Buchan placed, in 1792, a brass 
 plate in the north aisle to denote the spot where lie was buried, June 29, 1718, “for the satisfaction of 
 his admirers,” as the inscription states, “unwilling that so good a man and sweet a poet should be 
 without a memorial.” 
 
140 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 and many memories of him are preserved in the house where he resided, 
 “in unaffected cheerfulness, and general, though simple elegance.” 
 There are few who walk through the fair town, or row along the waters 
 that lave its banks, who will not recall the graceful tribute of a brother 
 poet — 
 
 “ Remembrance oft shall haunt this shore, 
 
 When Thames in summer wreaths is drest, 
 
 And oft suspend the dashing oar, 
 
 To bid thy gentle spirit rest! ” 
 
 On Richmond Green is all that now remains of the old Palace of 
 Sheen, * consisting of a stone gateway, and a smaller postern gate beside 
 
 B1CHMOKD I3K1DGE. 
 
 it. Above the large gate is sculptured the arms of England, supported 
 by the dragon and greyhound, indicating its erection in the time of 
 Henry VII. Beside it may be traced a few portions of the old brick- 
 work of the palatial buildings, with the characteristic reticulated pattern 
 
 * “ It is well known that this place received its present name by royal command in the reign of 
 Henry VII., who was Earl of Richmond in Yorkshire. In Domesday it is not mentioned: a record of 
 nearly the same antiquity calls it Syenes ; the name was afterwards spelt Schenes, Schene, and Sheen. 
 Some writers, founding their conjectures upon the latter word, which signifies bright or splendid, have 
 supposed it to be expressive of the magnificence of the ancient palace.” — Lysons. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 141 
 
 which gave diversity to the walls. It is believed to have been the 
 entrance to the wardrobe court. 
 
 Passing under the railway bridge, which crosses the Thames at the 
 eastern boundary of Kew Gardens, we have them on our right hand for 
 more than two miles. The left bank affords more diversity, and to that 
 we direct special attention. The first object which attracts the eye is a 
 palatial building, now appropriated to the Female Naval Orphan Asylum. 
 It was commenced by Lord Kilmurry as a residence, but has been greatly 
 enlarged, and is now devoted to a high purpose — as one of those noble 
 institutions which do honour to England, rendering memorable over the 
 world the words, “ Supported by Voluntary Contributions.” About 
 half a mile brings us to Isleworth Church, with its ancient ivy-covered 
 tower. The body of the church is of red brick, and was constructed in 
 1705. It contains a few of the monumental brasses which were in the 
 older edifice ; one of them represents a knight in armour of the fifteenth 
 century ; but the most curious is affixed withinside the Duke of Nor- 
 thumberland’s pew, and is here copied; it preserves the figure of one of 
 the last of the English nuns, being to the memory 
 of “ Margaret Dely, a syster professed in Syon, who 
 decessed the vii of October, Anno 1561,” — during 
 the short while the nunnery was restored to the 
 Roman Catholic service in the reign of Queen Mary. 
 
 The village of Isleworth is chiefly devoted to garden- 
 ground, and the growth of vegetables for London 
 markets. Though never occupying a position in 
 history, Isleworth is noted in our most ancient surveys. 
 
 Simon de Montfort encamped here with the refractory 
 barons, in 1263; and Fairfax fixed his head-quarters 
 here in 1647. It is a straggling unpicturesque vil- 
 lage, offering no inducements to delay the tourist. 
 
 Sion House, which occupies the site of the ancient 
 religious foundation, is close beside the church ; it was originally granted 
 to a convent of Bridgetine nuns, by Henry V., in the year 1414 : they 
 seem to have led a quiet life of much prosperity ; upon its dissolution, in 
 
142 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 the reign of Henry VIII., the revenue of the Convent of Sion was valued 
 at the very large sum of £1,731 8*. 4 kd. per annum. The king retained 
 the desecrated buildings and here imprisoned his unfortunate queen, 
 Katherine Howard, while arranging her judicial murder. The body of 
 the same king rested here on the road to his mausoleum at Windsor. 
 Edward VI., in the first year of his reign, gave the building and site to 
 the Protector Seymour, Duke of Somerset. On his attainder it was 
 granted to the Duke of Northumberland, in whose family it has since 
 remained, except during the short period when it reverted to the Crown 
 during the reign of Mary — the forfeiture being occasioned by the ambi- 
 tion of the duke, whose son married the Lady Jane Grey : it was in Sion 
 House she accepted the crown, having been conducted thence as queen to 
 the Tower of London, so soon afterwards to die on a scaffold within its 
 walls. 
 
 Queen Mary was induced to restore the nunnery at Sion, and endow 
 it with the manor and demesnes of Isleworth. It was dissolved by 
 Elizabeth, who, however, retained the lands until 1604, when they were 
 again given to the Dukes of Northumberland. The present house was 
 constructed soon afterwards, and has some rich interior details. The 
 exterior is singularly plain, a mere quadrangle of heavy stonework. It 
 contains some fine pictures. One of the prettiest and pleasantest points 
 on the river is the graceful Pavilion we have here introduced. 
 
 Brentford commences at the end of the walls of the park at Sion ; but 
 the greater part of the town is happily hidden by a long island thickly 
 covered with trees. It is one of the most unpicturesque towns on the 
 river, abounding in gas-works, factories, and distilleries ; its streets pre- 
 senting an appearance of dirt and neglect, heightened by alleys, the 
 abodes of squalid poverty. A large part of the population are employed 
 in the extensive market-gardens in the neighbourhood. The town 
 takes its name from the small river Brent, which here flows into the 
 Thames, rising in the adjoining county of Hertford, and pursuing a 
 tortuous course through the centre of Middlesex. It is a small stream, 
 but its junction with the Thames at an important locality led to the 
 foundation, in very early times, of a village here, the establishment of a 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 143 
 
 ously "written at various times “ Kayhongh, Kay too, Keyhowe, Keye, 
 Kayo, and Kewe.” Lysons, half a century back, describes its green- 
 house as famous, being 140 feet in length ; and Darwin, about the same 
 period, pictured its garden as “a crowning glory ” — 
 
 “ So sits enthroned, in vegetable pride, 
 
 Imperial Kew, by Thames’s glittering sile.” 
 
 large nunnery on the opposite side of the ford materially aiding its 
 growth. 
 
 And so we arrive in sight of Kew Bridge ; hut before we row under 
 it, we must step ashore to visit some of the attractions of this ancient 
 and renowned village. 
 
 Kew — “ the situation of which near the water-side might induce one 
 to seek for its etymology from the word key or quay ” — has been vari- 
 
 WATER PAVILION AT SION HOUSE. 
 
RAILS-HFAU FEBBY. 
 
 property of the Crown, and in charge of the Board of Works, the public 
 are freely admitted every day, under a few needful restrictions ; that the 
 privilege is enjoyed by very large numbers daily ; and that the result 
 fully bears out the belief, that where advantages are given to “the 
 people,” they are neither lost nor abused by carelessness or cupidity. 
 Cases of impropriety are rare, while it is certain that health, instruction, 
 
 144 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 The historian and the poet, could they rise from their graves, would see 
 with wonder and delight the greenhouse and the garden of to-day, filled 
 with the floral beauties of a hundred lands, — miles of walks among 
 flowers under glass. 
 
 Inasmuch as there is an admirable and cheap guide-book for the use 
 of visitors, compiled by the accomplished Curator, Dr. Hooker, we 
 are relieved from the necessity of details descriptive of these beautiful 
 gardens and conservatories : it will suffice to say that, although still the 
 
THE ROOK OF THE THAMES. 145 
 
 and gratification, have been largely derived from the means thus gene- 
 rously placed at the disposal of all. 
 
 Between Richmond and Kew there is no bridge ; there are, however, 
 three ferries, one of which we have introduced as a very picturesque 
 “bit.” It is that which leads to Isleworth, and is called the Rajls-head 
 Ferry, a name it obtained before the introduction of those iron ways 
 which now conduct tourists from London to the far-famed “Hill,” and 
 thence to “regal Windsor.” 
 
 Although we do not delay the voyager by describing the gardens, we 
 ask him to visit the ancient and venerable Palace, famous during 
 
 “ Good King George's reign,” 
 
 and interesting now, although it is lonely and without inhabitant — 
 standing as a striking and somewhat gloomy monument to record the 
 liberality of the sovereign and his successors, who gave the adjacent 
 grounds to the people. It was once the property of Sir Hugh Portman, 
 “ the rich gentleman who was knighted by Queen Elizabeth at Kew,” 
 and was built during the reign of James I., although it retains very 
 little of the style of architecture of that period, being of red brick, but 
 exceedingly plain and without ornament. In 1781 it was purchased by 
 George III. ; his queen, Charlotte, died there, and during many years 
 it was the favourite suburban residence of the royal family. 
 
 Under the superintendence of her Majesty, the grounds were “orna- 
 mented with various picturesque objects and temples, designed by Sir 
 William Chambers, among which is one called the Pagoda, in imitation 
 of a Chinese building, 49 feet in diameter at the base, and 163 feet in 
 height.” No doubt this was a marvel at the time of its erection ; it is 
 still a conspicuous object from all adjacent parts, and the temples are 
 attractions judiciously distributed. 
 
 It is more than delightful to escape in summer from the turmoil of the 
 hot, dusty, London world, to the peculiar serenity and surpassing beauty 
 of Kew ; the gardens are so full of interest, so varied, so suggestive, and 
 so instructive, that a much larger space than we can devote to the 
 subject would fail to convey an idea of the treasures they contain; we 
 
 IT 
 
146 
 
 THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 of May but there is no difficulty in peopling it with “ the great” of 
 the past, and seeing, by the light of history, the beautiful and brilliant 
 family that once held court 
 
 “ Beside the Thames at Kew.” 
 
 In those days the “ gardens ” were, like the palace, the exclusive property 
 of the Crown : but when the latter ceased to be a “ royal residence,” our 
 good and ever-considcrate Queen, desiring to enlarge the circle com- 
 menced by Queen Charlotte, devoted the whole of the estate to the fruits 
 
 are willing, therefore, to let fancy go back to the time of Queen Char- 
 lotte, whose love of nature laid the foundation of that which now yields 
 — sometimes to many thousands in a day — so much of health, pleasure, 
 and information. The square red “palace” — which her Majesty loved 
 sufficiently well to select as a residence, above all others, after the death 
 of her beloved husband — seems lonely and silent in the midst of that 
 fragrant paradise, where trees are bursting into bloom, and birds are 
 pouring forth the rejoicings that specially belong to the “ sweet month 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 147 
 
 of botanical research ; and it was finally determined that the public should 
 be admitted daily. Thus the “gardens at Ivew ” may be ranked 
 amongst the great teachers, as well as the healthful luxuries, of the 
 people. 
 
 “Kew Green” is one of the most “quaint” and peculiar “bits” of 
 scenery within ten miles of the metropolis. The church may be taken 
 as the principal feature, — a clean, bright, stately English church, neither 
 new nor old. This “ green ” is irregularly “ flanked” by houses of all 
 heights and qualities ; some trellised, some bare and stately, others hid 
 
 GAINSBOROUGH'S TOMB. 
 
 away in the bright foliage which climbs their walls ; some standing 
 boldly forward, others receding modestly behind trees. 
 
 The church stands on the west side of the green. Its grave-yard 
 contains the graves of several remarkable men, among whom may be 
 named Gainsborough and Zoffany. Gainsborough was never a resident 
 here : he resided for many years at Schomburg House, Pall Mall ; it 
 was at his own request that he was buried at Kew, beside the grave of 
 bis old friend, Kirby, author of a once celebrated work on Perspective; 
 but Zoffany lived in the little hamlet called Strand- on-the- Green, which 
 adjoins the bridge on the Middlesex side of the river. 
 

 148 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 Gainsborough’s Tombstone is the central slab in the foreground of our 
 engraving, lie had desired that his name only should be cut upon the 
 stone; it is, therefore, simply inscribed, “Thomas Gainsborough, Esq., 
 died August 2nd, 1788, aged 61 years.”* A similarly brief inscription 
 records the death of his wife ten years afterwards. There is enough of 
 the “ country churchyard ” yet remaining at Kew to make it a fitting 
 resting-place for such a painter : one who has left us some of our most 
 charming pictures of natural scenery. It is no unpleasant spot, for 
 
 KEW BRIDGE. 
 
 trees shadow it, and a free air is around. It is a more agreeable pil- 
 grimage to the grave of Gainsborough than to the place of greater honour 
 — the crypt of St. Taul’s — where so many of his brethren lie. In a 
 few years, however, Kew may be part of London ; for buildings are 
 rising rapidly between the sequestered village and the outskirts of the 
 metropolis. 
 
 * Time lim ing obliterated the inscription, it has been recently restored at the cost of Mr. E. M. 
 Ward, H.A. 
 
 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 149 
 
 The Bridge at Ivew is a comparatively modern structure. Looking 
 eastward a pleasant ait fortunately takes away from Kew and its river 
 walks the view of “Brentford’s tedious town.” Hence, in Middlesex, 
 there is little to claim attention until we approach Chiswick ; while, on 
 the Surrey bank, we pass along by the side of osier beds, with nothing 
 worthy of notice until Mortlake is reached. “ The name of this place 
 has been generally supposed to be derived from mortuus lacus, or the dead 
 lake;” in Domesday it is called “ Mortlage.” Cromwell House, one 
 of its attractions, has been recently pulled down. It is erroneously 
 described as a residence of the Protector ; but Mr. Lemon, of the State 
 Paper Office, informs us that in the collection there are several letters 
 dated thence by the Lord Henry Cromwell, of the reign of Henry YIII. 
 Dr. Dee, the famous astrologer, lived at Mortlake, in a house near the 
 water-side, a little westward from the church ; and here Queen Elizabeth 
 came to visit him, and see his famous glass, into which he conjured 
 spirits for magical purposes. He had attended Elizabeth before on 
 frivolous errands of superstition, particularly when a wax image with a 
 pin stuck in it was found in Lincoln’s Inn Fields, and the queen and 
 council were in great alarm lest it boded evil to her life. When the 
 queen came to Mortlake in March, 1575, she did not enter Dee’s house ; 
 “ Her Majesty,” he tells us, “ being taken down from her horse by the 
 Earl of Leicester, master of the horse, at the church wall of Mortlake, 
 did see some of the properties of that glass, to her Majesty’s great con- 
 tentment and delight.”* Upon the ground where Dee’s laboratory stood 
 were afterwards erected the tapestry works of Sir F. Crane ; they were 
 established in 1619 ; and to this circumstance we are probably indebted 
 for the possession of the famous cartoons of Baphael, purchased as copies 
 for the artizan. Leading from Mortlake are by-ways to Biehmond and to 
 Kew, through low and ill-drained grounds, principally market gardens. 
 Here and there, however, we meet some stately manor-house, seated in 
 
 * He records the incident in his very curious diary. The queen, who believed in his powers of 
 judicial astrology, was desirous of seeing for herself the spirits he conjured in his magic crystal. She 
 came from the palace, at Biehmond, to Dr. Dee’s house, but the funeral of the astrologer’s wife had 
 only been performed two hours before, which was the reason that her Majesty would not enter the house. 
 Aubrey tells us that Dee was buried in this church “in the chancel, a little towards the south side.” 
 
150 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 solitary and aristocratic grandeur amid groups of ancient and wide- 
 spreading cedars. 
 
 Mortlaxe Church is in part a very ancient edifice, dating so far back 
 as 1348, although the earliest date on the building is 1543.* The 
 outward door of the belfry is, however, said to be the only remaining 
 part of the original structure. It is full of interesting monuments. 
 
 That portion of Barnes which is called the Terrace immediately 
 
 MOKTLAKE CHURCH. 
 
 succeeds Mortlake ; it is a pretty and pleasant row of houses, chiefly let 
 as lodgings, the place being much in favour during the summer months. 
 The village lies farther back from the river — a straggling village, with 
 
 * 11ns date is on a stone over the belfry door, inscribed “ Yivat B. H. S. ' 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 151 
 
 Middlesex, and ask him to land at Chiswick, proceeding thence to the 
 hamlet of Hammersmith. 
 
 There are few localities in the vicinity of London so interesting as the 
 pretty and pleasant village of Chiswick. Its principal attraction is the 
 charming and very beautifully decorated mansion of the Duke of Devon- 
 shire, with its delicious grounds and gardens. “ The house was designed 
 and erected by Hichard Boyle, Earl of Burlington, whose skill in archi- 
 tecture has been proved by his works, and whose encouragement of his 
 favourite science greatly promoted the progress of that taste which has 
 
 a cluster of houses surrounding a pond. Some parts of the church are 
 said to be as old as the time of Richard I. The old “ house ” — Barne- 
 Elms — in which Queen Elizabeth visited Sir Erancis Walsingham, where 
 lived Sir Henry Wyat, and where some time resided the poet Cowley, is 
 one of the famous points of the district. 
 
 Until we arrive at Putney, there is nothing to detain the tourist after 
 he leaves Barnes, unless he desire a peep at several “ cozy ” houses, 
 called the Castelnau Villas ; we must, therefore, conduct him into 
 
 HOGARTH’S HOUSE, CHISWICK. 
 
152 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 reposes in the vault of his patron ; and here there is a fitting monument 
 to Charles Whittingham, the printer, -whose skill and taste gave to the 
 Chiswick press a fame that “went over the world.” The graveyard 
 contains the ashes of many persons of note : the imperious Duchess of 
 Cleveland here mingles with common clay; here “repose the remains” 
 of Cromwell’s daughter, Mary; here Holland, the actor, Garrick’s 
 
 since produced so many fine architectural examples in this country.” 
 The model which the architect generally followed is that of the Villa 
 Capra, near Vicenza, the designer of which was the famous Palladio. 
 It is magnificently furnished, and contains a collection of rare and 
 valuable pictures. Here Charles Fox died, on the 13tli September, 
 1806; and here George Canning “put on immortality,” on the 8th of 
 August, 1827. 
 
 The interest of Chiswick House is, however, surpassed by the church 
 and churchyard of the village. In the former the architect, Kent, the 
 associate of Lord Burlington in the adornment of the house and grounds, 
 
 HOGARTH’S TOM 11. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 153 
 
 friend, exchanged his motley for a winding-sheet ; here Lord Macartney, 
 the pioneer to China, rests from his labours ; here calmly sleeps a man 
 of marvellous genius, the exile TJgo Foscolo; here lies the painter 
 Loutherbourg ; and here, still speaking from his sculptured tomb, reposes 
 the great artist, William Hogarth. 
 
 The tomb of Hogarth is a not ungraceful structure, exhibiting on one 
 side a basso-relievo indicative of his art ; an inscription on the east side 
 notes the death of Hogarth, in October, 1764, at the age of sixty-seven, 
 and his wife in November, 1789, at the age of eighty. His sister’s 
 
 HAMMERSMITH BRIDGE.* 
 
 death is recorded on the south side, in August, 1771, at the age of 
 seventy ; and that of Mary Lewis, his niece, who acted as saleswoman 
 at his house in Leicester Square, and who died in 1808, at the age of 
 eighty-eight. The other face of the monument has an inscription to his 
 
 * The bridge was constructed in 1828, from the designs and under the superintendence of William 
 Tierney Clarke. He afterwards erected one similar at Prague, iu Bohemia. 
 
 X 
 
154 
 
 THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 mother-in-law, the widow of Sir James Thornhill, who was first buried 
 in this grave in 1757. 
 
 The name of Hammersmith is not found in any record prior to the 
 reign of Elizabeth, yet it is now a populous suburb of the metropolis ; 
 for, although distant some five miles from Hyde Park Comer, there is 
 scarcely any interruption to the line of streets that leads to it through 
 Knightsbridge and Kensington. Its pretty and picturesque Church dates 
 no further back than the reign of Charles I. It was built at the cost of 
 
 HAMMERSMITH CHURCH. 
 
 Sir Nicholas Crispe, merchant of London, a loyal adherent of the 
 monarchy during the contest between the Crown and the Parliament. 
 His history is touchiugly told in au inscription placed under an effigy 
 of Charles I., at the base of which is a pedestal surmounted by an urn. 
 
 “ Within this urn is entombed the heart of Sir Nicholas Crispe, Knight 
 and Baronet, a loyal sharer in the sufferings of his late and present 
 Majesty. He first settled the trade of gold from Guinea, and there built 
 tlie castle of Cormantine. Died the 26th July, 1655, aged 67 years.” 
 
 In the churchyard are many monuments with foreign names, servants 
 in the household of the Margravine of Anspach, who once inhabited 
 Brandenburgh House — a house which became famous as the residence of 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 155 
 
 Queen Caroline, the unhappy wife of George IV. It was razed to the 
 ground very soon after her death, and on the space it occupied now 
 stand several charming villas. 
 
 We resume our voyage, and passing between hanks on which are 
 several graceful villas, although generally the land is low and cannot be 
 healthy, we come in sight of the ugly structure which, crossing the 
 Thames, unites the villages of Putney and Fulham. Both these villages 
 are famous in history, and we must delay the tourist while we visit 
 
 THE STAB AND GABTEB, PUTNEY BBIDGE. 
 
 them. Let us land at Putney, first noticing that group of houses, in the 
 centre of which is one that is familiar to all the “ oarsmen” of the river, 
 the well-known “ Star and Garter,” the head-quarters of several aquatic 
 clubs. The illustration has been sketched to include one of the most 
 conspicuous, though not the most picturesque, objects in this part of our 
 course — the Club-house of the London Rowing Club, the largest associa- 
 tion of amateurs that has ever existed on the Thames in connection with 
 this healthful recreation. It has been recently erected at considerable 
 
156 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 cost; and if the popularity of the club continues to increase as it has 
 done during the last few years, it will, we imagine, soon be found too 
 small for the accommodation of its members. 
 
 “Putney,” according to Lysons, “is in Domesday called Putelei ; in 
 subsequent records it is spelt Puttenheth, or Pottenheth.” The village 
 leads up-hill, through a street of good villa houses, to Wimbledon and 
 Koehampton. It has an old church, and is famous as the birthplace of 
 three remarkable men : West, Bishop of Ely, the son of a baker here; 
 
 FULHAM CHUBCH, AND PHI OB’S BANK. 
 
 Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, whose father was a blacksmith in the 
 town ; and Gibbon, the historian. 
 
 The tourist will derive greater interest, however, from a visit to the 
 Middlesex side of the river, and that interest will continue almost 
 unbroken until he reaches London : along its Surrey banks are to be 
 seen only objects that blot the landscape, however much they may add 
 to the solid wealth of the country ; for, excepting a group of very ugly 
 and cheerless, though costly domiciles, that have 1 eplaced as many quaint 
 old dwellings of a by-gone time, and which skirt the river immediately 
 after leaving Putney, there is but a succession of factories and small 
 cottage houses, which serve to shelter labourers and artizans ; unwhole- 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 157 
 
 some-looking swamps divide the space with yards, and quays, and 
 waggon-sheds, auxiliaries to manufactories of gin, soap, starch, silk, 
 paper, candles, beer, and vitriol — the first named and the last being no 
 doubt mutually dependent for aid and assistance. Such is the only 
 picture to he contemplated all the way ; it includes long, straggling 
 Wandsworth, and longer and still more straggling Battersea, both with 
 modern and ugly churches, that of Battersea being especially odious, 
 inasmuch as it is thrust forward almost into the current, and it is impos- 
 sible to avoid looking at an object, in producing which the architect 
 
 seems to have studied how far it was in his power to make it repugnant : 
 we therefore pass rapidly over the Surrey side of the Thames between 
 bridges at Putney and Battersea. 
 
 We breathe more freely as we cross the bridge and enter the village 
 of Pulham. 
 
 Between Fulham and Chelsea, to which we now hasten, passing by 
 several graceful villas, we arrive at “ Cremorne,” a popular place of 
 
158 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 amusement that has taken the place of old Vauxhall. But an object of 
 far higher interest soon greets the voyager ; it is the hospital in which 
 the old and worn soldiers who have served their country repose after 
 their toils. We have first, however, to row under Battersea Bridge. 
 Like that of Tutney, it is coarse, unseemly, and inconvenient in character, 
 all its defects being brought into strong relief by the beautiful structure 
 which now crosses the river a little lower down. 
 
 W e must step ashore at Chelsea ; for this locality is fertile of useful 
 suggestions and interesting associations. 
 
 A narrow lane, such as we still see sometimes at port towns, leads to 
 
 CHELSEA CHURCH. 
 
 the venerable Church. The monument to the memory of Sir Hans Sloane 
 occupies the east corner of the churchyard. The church and many 
 neighbouring localities derive interest from associations with the history 
 of that great and good statesman, Sir Thomas More. At his house, in 
 Chelsea, the eighth Harry frequently visited his “ beloved Chancellor,” 
 — “a house neither mean nor subject to envy, yet magnificent and com- 
 modious enough,” with gardens “ wonderfully charming,” with “ green 
 meadows and woody eminences all around.” Here the Abbot of West- 
 minster took him into custody for refusing to “take the king as bead 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 159 
 
 of his church and for denying the king’s supremacy, he was beheaded 
 on Tower Hill. He had anticipated his death, and had caused his tomb 
 to he made in the church at Chelsea. Whether his body was interred 
 there is doubtful ; but the place is full of memories of him of whom it 
 was quaintly said — 
 
 “ When More some time had chancellor been, 
 
 No more suits did remain ; 
 
 The same shall never more be seen, 
 
 Till More be Uiere again.” 
 
 A few yards farther — leaving to the right the pretty pier at which steam- 
 boats ply every ten minutes, and where a few of the old watermen still 
 
 
 
 iSli 
 
 
 
 lij 
 
 ajj] 
 
 
 SIR THOMAS MORE’S HOUSE. 
 
 linger — we reach that famous row of “good houses” known as Ciieyne 
 Walk, a pleasant promenade, and one of the most memorable “ bits ” 
 that skirt the river-side. 
 
 A few steps onward, if we are foot passengers, “ a row ” of a hundred 
 yards if we are voyagers — passing on the left of the old “ Physic Garden,” 
 bequeathed, in the year 1673, by Charles Cheyne, Esq., Lord of the 
 Manor of Chelsea, to the Company of Apothecaries for a term of years, 
 and afterwards purchased and presented to them by Sir Hans Sloane — 
 and we reach the long-renowned Hospital of Chelsea. Assuredly 
 
 
160 
 
 THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 there are few who cross the Thames to visit either the railway station at 
 Battersea, or Battersea Park, who will not have their attention directed 
 to this deeply interesting monument of an age which is unhappily sugges- 
 tive less of pride than of humiliation, but of which this home for battle- 
 tried and weather-beaten soldiers is one of the redeeming points ; where 
 for two centuries the brave men who receive grateful proofs of a nation’s 
 gratitude tell 
 
 “ How fields were won,” 
 
 and “ fight their battles over again.” 
 
 Of Chelsea Hospital the front view is the most striking ; for, though 
 
 CHEYNE WALK. 
 
 it docs not possess any very remarkable architectural feature, it has a 
 certain “ nobility of look,” and all its associations are of great interest. 
 The foundation of the hospital — or, as its inmates prefer to call it, “ the 
 college ” — is known to have been one of the few good deeds of the 
 voluptuary, Charles II. — being an exception to the rule as regarded the 
 sovereign 
 
 “ V ho never said a foolish thing. 
 
 And never did a wise one.” 
 
 There is a tradition, but it is without proof, that “ the merry monarch” 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 161 
 
 was influenced to this merciful act by his mistress, Nell Gwynne. Be it 
 as it may, it was a fortunate circumstance for the country. Many a 
 battle has been won for these kingdoms by the knowledge that the 
 maimed soldier can never be a deserted beggar — by the certainty that 
 honourable scars will be healed by other ointment than that of mere 
 pity — by the assurance that shelter and comfort are prepared for the 
 wounded or aged, of whom a nation becomes the guardian and protector. 
 In this “ Palace Hospital ” are contained — so that all visitors as well as 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL: SIDE VIEW. 
 
 inmates may continually see them — various trophies taken at victories 
 gained by British soldiers : it is a proud as well as a very numerous 
 collection. 
 
 “It has often been remarked by foreigners,” says Faulkner, in his 
 account of Chelsea, “ that the charitable foundations of England were 
 more fitted, by their grandeur and extent, for the residence of kings ; 
 while her palaces, by their external appearance, seemed better calculated 
 for the reception of the needy and unfortunate. But surely they could 
 not have paid a nation greater honour ; and when we survey the noble 
 
 T 
 
162 THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 fabrics at Chelsea and at Greenwich, we cannot but feel proud that w r e 
 live in a country which constantly affords an asylum to the helpless 
 wanderer — which relieves the wants of the needy and allays the suffer- 
 ings of the sick to an extent, and with a liberality, unknown throughout 
 the rest of Europe.” 
 
 The edifice stands upon the site of a college founded by King 
 James I. for the study of polemical divinity. It was originally pro- 
 jected by Dr. Matthew Sutcliffe, Dean of Exeter, in the early part of 
 that king’s reign. James laid the first stone in May, 1C09, and in the 
 
 CHELSEA HOSPITAL : FROST VIEW. 
 
 same month of the succeeding year granted a charter of incorporation, 
 in which the number of members was limited to nineteen, and a provost, 
 and the institution was to be named “King James’s College.” Sutcliffe 
 liberally gave toward the foundation all he could, and lie was empowered 
 by an act of Parliament to receive any aid in the way of bequest or 
 contribution, but so little came that “scarce an eighth part was erected, 
 as only one side of the first quadrangle was ever completed, and this 
 range of building, according to Fuller, cost about three thousand 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 163 
 
 pounds.” After Sutcliffe’s death, iu 1629, it languished, and was finally 
 broken up in the troubles of the Great Civil War. In the year 1669 
 Charles gave the ground and buildings to the Royal Society. They 
 endeavoured for some time to let the premises advantageously, but 
 failing in their attempts, they sold them again to Sir Stephen Fox, Lord 
 Commissioner of the Treasury, for the king’s use, for the sum of £1,300. 
 
 On the 12th of March, 1682, Charles II., attended by his principal 
 courtiers, laid the first stone of the present Hospital buildings, and Sir 
 Christopher Wren was the architect. Evelyn notes that in the following- 
 month — “I was desired by Sir Stephen Fox and Sir Christopher Wren 
 to accompany them to Lambeth, with the plot and design of the college 
 to he huilt at Chelsey, to have the Archbishop’s approbation.” This 
 was obtained ; and Archbishop Sancroft gave £1,000 toward the build- 
 ing, Sir Stephen Fox promising “ that he would settle £5,000 per annum 
 on if, and build to the value of £20,000.” Tobias Rustat, yeoman of 
 the robes to the king, also contributed £1,000, and presented the bronze 
 statue of Charles II. which still adorns the quadrangle. The entire 
 building was not completed till 1690, and the total cost is said to have 
 been £150,000. It accomniodates about 400 inmates. The hall is 
 spacious, and in it is a large allegorical picture of Charles II. on horse- 
 back, by Yerrio, whose ceiling-painting at Hampton Court we have 
 already noted. The chapel has an altar-piece by Sebastian Ricci, painted 
 when he visited this country in the reign of Anne ; it represents the 
 Resurrection of our Saviour. 
 
 Rattersea Park has been laid out only within the last ten or twelve 
 years; it is therefore in its infancy — the shrubs are “miniatures;” but 
 to the next generation it will be one of the chief adornments of the 
 metropolitan suburbs. From it we look upon the old bridge, and the 
 Dutch-looking church and village of Chelsea. Beyond the hospital is 
 the Hew Bridge, constructed by Thomas Page, Esq. It is a toll bridge ; 
 and it has been pleasantly said that “Government gave a park to the 
 people, and placed a toll-bar at the gate to keep them out of it.” The 
 bridge is the most beautiful of the many that cross the Thames between 
 its source and its fall into the sea. 
 
104 
 
 THE HOOK OE THE THAMES. 
 
 Close to the gardens of Chelsea College, on the London side, stood 
 the once-famed Ranelagh.* The line of trees which parts the college 
 garden from the small garden appropriated to the veterans who arc here 
 domiciled after their warlike labours, was once a part of the “ walks” of 
 Ranelagh ; and a few years ago the remains of the lamp-irons which lit 
 it were still upon some of the tree stems. This most aristocratic place 
 
 THE NEW BRIDGE AT CHELSEA. 
 
 of amusement was opened in 1742. The great feature of the spot was an 
 enormous Rotunda, a hundred and eighty-five feet in diameter, in which 
 concerts took place, and which is the conspicuous object in our view, 
 copied from a print published in 1743. In the immediate neighbourhood 
 was the “Old Chelsea” porcelain works, concerning which very little is 
 known, but which produced efforts of art that may vie with the best 
 issues of Dresden and Sevres. 
 
 The whole of the district hence to "Westminster, and from the river 
 
 * It obtained its name from being erected on the site of the mansion of Richard, Earl of Ranelagh, 
 who was Paymaster-General of the forces, and one of the Commissioners of Chelsea Hospital, during 
 the reign of Charles If., and obtained from the Crown a grant of Ute land, lie died in 1712, and in 
 1733 the house and grounds were sold in lots. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. * 1G5 
 
 inland to Pimlico was formerly a most lonely and dangerous locality, and 
 so continued until the commencement of the present century. The Five 
 Fields and Tothill Fields, which comprehended nearly the whole space) 
 were desert spots, crossed here and there with footpaths and raised cause- 
 ways, flanked by ditches, which divided a few wretched gardens, contain- 
 ing some half-dozen ruined sheds scattered over the ground, inhabited by 
 the very worst classes of the London community, and where it was not 
 safe for strangers to travel. Hollar has preserved its features in his 
 “view of the pest-houses” iu Tothill Fields, in 1665 ; London is seen 
 
 OLD KAis'ELAGII. 
 
 in the distance, as if on the confines of a desert. These pest-houses were 
 set apart in this dismal and secluded locality for the cure of such unfor- 
 tunates as were afflicted ; and the churchwardens’ accounts furnish us 
 with notes of moneys paid for their support. How this spot is thickly 
 covered with houses, streets, and squares ; and aristocratic Belgravia 
 occupies the once worthless marsh-land of old Chelsea. 
 
 The opposite hank of the river was sacred to the market-gardener until 
 a recent period. The first great change was effected by the South- 
 Western Railway, which fixed its opening station originally at Nine 
 
166 the book of the Thames. 
 
 Elms, where an extensive “goods station” still remains. Between this 
 spot and Yauxhall Bridge, thirty years ago, was a place of general 
 recreation, known as Cumberland Gardens : it consisted of an open space 
 towards the Thames, laid out in grass-plats, and surrounded by open 
 boxes and tables for refreshments, after the style of old-fashioned 
 suburban tea-gardens. The ground is now occupied by a distillery. 
 The bridge which crosses the Thames at Yauxhall is of cast iron, and 
 
 LAMBETH PALACE AND CHUBCH. 
 
 was begun by Rennie, and finished by Walker. It was opened for traffic 
 in 181 G. A few trees seen above the houses at the foot of the Surrey 
 side of the bridge mark the sight of old Yauxhall Gardens, once the 
 glory of English pleasure- gardens, frequented by the highest in the land, 
 from the gay days of Charles II. to those of “ the Regency.” 
 
 Lambeth Palace and Church now come in view ; they are among 
 the most interesting old buildings on the banks of the river. The church 
 was rebuilt in 1852, and is a beautiful example of modern restoration. 
 Before that time it was in a most neglected and unsightly state, — now it 
 is a model of neatness, and the memorial windows are very beautiful. 
 
THE BOOXC OF THE THAMES. 167 
 
 Close beside it is the old brick gate-house of the Palace, for more than 
 six centuries the residence of the Archbishops of Canterbury. It was 
 built by Archbishop Morton at the close of the fifteenth century. It 
 consists of two square towers connected by an embattled recessed 
 centre ; the whole built of red brick, with stone quoins, the bricks 
 arranged in an ornamental manner by the introduction of coloured 
 glaze, forming a large chequered pattern over the surface, a fashion 
 first introduced in the reign of Henry YII., when these towers were 
 erected. There is a spacious arched gateway and postern in the 
 central recess. In these towers is the Record Room, filled with 
 ancient archives connected with the See of Canterbury. There is 
 also a small prison here, walled with stone, and fitted with three 
 strong rings of iron for the security of prisoners, one of whom — 
 Richard Grafton — has recorded his name upon the walls. On the water- 
 side, the gate-house is connected by a long brick wall with the Lollards’ 
 Tower. Above this wall may be seen the noble old hall (now converted 
 into a library) built by Archbishop Juxon in the reign of Charles II. 
 It is constructed of dark red brick, dressed with stone, and having a 
 series of bold buttresses. The lantern which surmounts the centre of the 
 roof is crowned by a vane, upon which is exhibited the arms of the See 
 of Canterbury, impaled with those of Archbishop Juxon, and crowned 
 with the mitre of the See. This noble hall has been injured in its effect 
 by its conversion into a library, the bookcases ci'owding the walls, and 
 projecting too far forward. It was first adapted to this use in 1830. 
 The library contains many valuable manuscripts and early printed books. 
 It is 93 feet in length, and 50 feet in height. The Lollards’ Tower is 
 faced with stone towards the river, and still bears on that side the arms 
 of Archbishop Chichely, by whom it was built in 1435 ; beneath them 
 is an ornamented niche, where a figure of St. Thomas-a-Becket was once 
 placed. The prison is in the small adjoining tower, only to be entered 
 by a steep staircase leading from the larger one. 
 
 We cannot here dwell on the interesting associations this venerable 
 palace conjures up in the mind, nor attempt to record the varied im- 
 pressions that arise from a visit within its ancient walls. For the artist 
 
168 
 
 THE ROOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 it abounds with antique “ bits:” one of its most picturesque rooms, tbo 
 “ Guakb C n a mb EE,” we engrave. It is mentioned by that name as early 
 as 1424, and in it Archbishop Laud held his state on the day of his 
 consecration. The roof is singularly elegant, with oaken ribs richly 
 carved; it was admirably restored in 1832, having been previously 
 hidden by a flat ceiling of plaster. The palace was restored throughout 
 by Archbishop Howley between the years 1828 and 1848. This munifi- 
 
 GUARD CHAMBER, LAMBETH PALACE. 
 
 cent prelate devoted a large sum to this necessary work of renovation 
 and improvement ; he rebuilt the whole of the residential portion in the 
 Tudor style of architecture, at a cost of upwards of £60,000. The 
 garden still preserves a park -like appearance, bounded by large trees. 
 The gardens and grounds cover eighteen acres ; but they are now sur- 
 rounded by houses and factories that deface their beauty and destroy 
 their salubrity. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 169 
 
 From Lambeth to the opposite bank is one of the oldest ferries on the 
 river, leading to “ the Horseferry Road,” which obtains that name from 
 this ancient river-way. Successions of coal and corn wharves now 
 line the banks until we reach the Houses of Parliament. This mag- 
 nificent pile starts up like a glorious giant from the hovels near it. Its 
 history is too well known to require lengthened notice here. Designed 
 and erected by Sir Charles Barry, the buildings cover nearly eight acres 
 of ground. The river front is 940 feet in length ; and there are more 
 
 HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 than 500 apartments in the entire pile, exclusive of official residences, 
 state apartments, and the “Houses” of the senate of England. The 
 eastern or river front has a noble terrace 700 feet in length, and 33 feet 
 in width, lighted at night by a series of lamps on the parapet. It com- 
 municates with the retiring rooms used by the members of Parliament, 
 and is an agreeable promenade in summer evenings. The entire face of 
 the building is richly decorated with heraldic sculpture, displaying the 
 
 z 
 
170 
 
 THE BOOK OF TIIE THAMES. 
 
 coat-armour of the English sovereigns from the earliest period, with 
 badges and inscriptions. At each end of the terrace are projecting 
 wings, with high towers, surmounted by gilded pinnacles and elaborate 
 sculptured ornament, being the most picturesque features of the entire 
 design. The vast Victoria Tower, seen to the left of our view, which 
 forms the royal entrance from New Palace Yard, is 340 feet in height, 
 and 80 feet square. The clock-tower, at the other extremity of the 
 building, is an imposing erection, second only to this gigantic tower, 
 but more highly enriched by ornament and gilding. The bell within 
 
 TiiJi STAB-CHAJIBEB. 
 
 it weighs eight tons, and the clock-face is twice the size of that at 
 St. Paul’s. Before the great fire of October 14, 1834, the river-frontage 
 exhibited a strange mixture of old brick and stone buildings, with the 
 stone front of the ancient “Chapel of St. Stephen” in the midst. The 
 Speaker’s house and garden were here ; and close to the bridge was the 
 old “Stak Chamber,” rendered memorable by the state prosecutions of 
 Charles I. From this official department issued the numerous levies, 
 forced loans, and royal prosecutions which led to the great civil wars. 
 The building was taken down in 1836. Our engraving is copied from a 
 
THE BOOK OE THE THAMES. 
 
 171 
 
 drawing made before its demolition. It received its name from the stars 
 painted on its ornamental ceiling. 
 
 The Old Hall of Westminstek now forms the vestibule to the Houses 
 of Lords and Commons, and the Law Courts. This noble building was 
 added to the old Royal Palace of the English kings, which once stood on 
 this spot, by William Rufus, and was enlarged, altered, and adapted to 
 its present form at the close of the fourteenth century, by Richard II. 
 
 OLD WESTMINSTER HALL. 
 
 The roof, formed of Irish oak, and richly carved, is one of the most 
 remarkable pieces of ancient carpentry at present existing. 
 
 The noble bridge, “Westminster Bridge,” that here crosses the 
 Thames, was built by the eminent engineer, Thomas Page, Esq. 
 
 Richmond Terrace, and the houses in “the privy garden,” known as 
 Whitehall Gardens (in one of which Sir Robert Peel died), occupy the 
 site, as they partly preserve the name, of the royal gardens and palace 
 which once covered the spot ; the latter was destroyed by a fire January, 
 
172 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 1698, through the carelessness of a Dutch washerwoman, one of 
 'William III.’s servants. It was an inconvenient scries of olcl buildings, 
 all of it that now remains being Inigo Jones’s famous banqueting-hall, 
 the only portion ever executed of the great architect s grand design for 
 its entire renovation. The ceiling is decorated with an apotheosis of 
 James I., painted by Rubens while on a visit to the court of Charles I. 
 in the character of ambassador : he was paid £3,000 for his work, and 
 was knighted at 'Whitehall, February 21, 1630. The painting was 
 “ repaired” by Kent in the time of George II., and again by Cipriani at 
 the latter part of the last century ; Pennant says the latter artist had 
 £2,000 “for his trouble;” it is to be regretted that either artist was 
 “troubled ” on this score, for their labours have overlaid and obliterated 
 the work of the great Fleming. Rubens’s masterly sketch for the central 
 compartment of the roof is preserved in our National Gallery. It was 
 purchased in 1842 for £200. 
 
 "Waterloo Bridge, long celebrated as the finest over the Thames, and 
 praised by Canova as “ the noblest bridge in the world,” was constructed 
 by Rennie, at the expense of a public company. It cost £400,000 ; the 
 approaches, &c., making up the sum to nearly a million. Close to the 
 foot of the bridge, on the City side is Somerset House : it is a noble 
 pile, now entirely devoted to government offices. It was built by Sir 
 William Chambers, and is his finest work. The Thames front is 800 
 feet in length, and is provided with a terrace, supported on arches, 
 50 feet above the bed of the river, and is the same number of feet in 
 advance of the main walls. Immediately adjoining Somerset House is 
 the modem building, King’s College. 
 
 Between that place and the Temple there is now nothing of importance 
 to arrest the attention of the voyager. 
 
 The fine old garden on the river’s bank has been a garden from the 
 days when the chiefs of the White and Red Rose factions plucked their 
 flowers here as badges for their adherents — a scene so vividly rendered in 
 Shakspere’s “ Henry VI.” 
 
 Blackfriars Bridge, the third bridge built in London, was erected by 
 Robert Mylnc, and opened for general traffic in 1769. Time has, how- 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 173 
 
 ever, rendered a new bridge necessary, and it is now in progress of 
 erection. 
 
 The number of church steeples that now appear above the City 
 wharfs, compared with the few seen farther west, recalls to memory 
 the remark of Sir Roger de Coverley, who argued therefrom on the 
 morality of the two districts. Grandly above all rises St. Paul’s 
 Cathedral, the noble work of Sir Christopher Wren, to whose genius we 
 are also indebted for the greater number of the churches whose steeples 
 
 s r ' ■ s 
 
 - * J 
 
 ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. 
 
 are so conspicuous. Unfortunately we do not look upon the great 
 metropolitan cathedral as Wren designed it. His first plan did not 
 include the long aisle and side chapels now a part of it, and which are 
 more fitted for the Romish ritual than our own. Wren had determined 
 to omit them, and so to construct the only great Protestant Cathedral ; 
 but the Duke of York, afterwards James II., obliged him to alter the 
 design, which caused the great architect many bitter tears. Thus, to 
 gratify the wish of one who sat upon our throne but two short years, and 
 
174 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 was then banished for ever, we lost a magnificent idea, peculiarly fitted 
 for us in England. Wren’s original design we here engrave. The dome 
 is much more graceful than that wo now see completed ; the architect 
 made his entire design converge to that grand centre. The wooden model 
 is still in the possession of the Dean and Chapter of St. Paul’s ; and such 
 are the grandeur and beauty of its arrangements, within and without, 
 that all who study it must deeply regret to find that Wren’s ideas have 
 been so unfortunately rendered inoperative. 
 
 The older cathedral, “the great glory” of ancient London, we also 
 
 WREN'S ORIGINAL DESIGN FOR ST. PAUL’S. 
 
 picture from Hollar’s careful view. It shows the steeple entire, before 
 its destruction by lightning in 15G1 ; it was never afterwards restored. 
 In the days of James I. its great state of decay obliged some measures to 
 be adopted to preserve the building. It was patched up in a slovenly 
 manner, and so remained till Charles I. set a vigorous example of resto- 
 ration, and built the famous portico from the design of Inigo Jones. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 175 
 
 The royal example was followed by the noble and wealthy, and in 1643 
 the renovation was completed at a cost of £100,000. Desecration 
 damaged it in the civil war, and the good work had to be done over 
 again at the Restoration ; but it went on slowly, and the Great Fire com- 
 pletely destroyed the ancient edifice. 
 
 Wren furnished a noble plan for the restoration of London after this 
 event. His mode of operation is detailed by his son in his “ Parentalia.” 
 
 OLD ST. PAUL’S CATHEDBAL. 
 
 The City of London is divided into twenty-six wards, each governed 
 by an alderman and one or more deputies ; the mayor is chosen from the 
 aldermen ; he must be a member of one of the twelve great livery com- 
 panies of merchantmen or traders ; and if he be not a member of any of 
 these companies, he is chosen into one of them. Until recently he had 
 the uncontrolled conservancy of the river Thames and the waters of the 
 Medway, from London Bridge to Rochester down the river, and from 
 
176 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 London Bridge to Staines up the river. He held Courts of Conservancy 
 whenever he saw a necessity for them, and had the power of summoning 
 juries in Kent and Middlesex, whose business it was to go on the river 
 in boats to view the state of it, make their presentments, and furnish 
 their report to his lordship. 
 
 Immediately after passing Queenhithe, we reach Southwark Bridge ; 
 it was designed by Rennie, and built by a company at a cost of £800,000. 
 It has three cast-iron arches, the span of the central arch being 240 feet, 
 
 PARIS GARDEN. 
 
 that of each side being 210 feet; the piers and abutments are of stone. 
 It was opened March 22, 1819. 
 
 "We cross the river to visit the Surrey bank of the Thames, for the most 
 interesting points of its early history are comprised between the two 
 bridges — Blackfriars and Southwark. The Surrey side was “ fashionable” 
 in the reign of Elizabeth, the Londoners being ferried across to the places 
 of popular amusement there thickly located. The Blackfriars Road now 
 passes over the site of “ Paris Garden,” where bear and bull-baiting 
 rejoiced the citizens, the gala days being usually Sundays. 
 
 Near that part of Southwark crossed by the road from the iron bridge, 
 stood that most famous building — T he Globe, of which Shakspere 
 was part proprietor, and for which he wrote his greatest plays. Its 
 
SOUTHWARK BRIDGE. 
 
THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 177 
 
 aspect will be best understood from our cut, copied from Visscher’s map, 
 1616. Beside it were “the Eose ” and “the Hope” playhouses, re- 
 ceiving their titles from the signs or figures painted or sculptured over 
 their doors. Rose Alley and Hope Alley still mark the sites of these 
 theatres: the more celebrated “ Globe ” is believed to have stood where 
 the iron-works of Messrs. Sheeres are now located, close beside the bridge. 
 
 The Globe theatre ob- 
 tained its name from the 
 figure which was placed 
 over the entrance, and 
 which represented Atlas 
 supporting a large globe, 
 under which was written, 
 
 “ Totus Mundus agit His- 
 trionem ” — a sentiment the 
 great dramatist has finely 
 worked out in one of his 
 most famous soliloquies. 
 
 Shakspere became part proprietor of the theatre soon after it was con- 
 structed, in 1593. It was burnt down June 29, 1613. 
 
 We meet with no important building until we reach the Fishmongers’ 
 Hall, at the foot of London Bridge, which is a modern structure, built 
 on the site of the old hall, in 1831. 
 
 We have thus arrived at London Bridge, having been compelled to 
 limit our descriptions to a mere enumeration of the various objects of 
 interest the voyager will encounter on his way. 
 
 The vai'ious houses from Southwark Bridge to “ the turn ” leading to 
 Barclay’s brewery have nothing to recommend them to notice, but that 
 they stand on the spot where the disreputable “ garden-bouses ” of the 
 Shaksperian era were located, and the “stews” that were rented from 
 the Bishop of Winchester. Amid the wharves close to the river-side 
 may still be traced some of the walls of the bishop’s palace, which, with 
 its gardens, occupied a large piece of ground : the old hall was burnt 
 down in 1814 ; the gardens had been previously built upon. 
 
 THE GLOBE THEATRE. 
 
 A A 
 
178 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 A small 'creek, called “St. Saviour’s Dock,” comes nearly up to the 
 principal door of “ St. Saviour’s,” or, as it is sometimes termed, “ St. 
 Mary Overy’s church,” one of the finest edifices on the banks of the 
 Thames, hut which has been unfortunately “ restored,” and partly rebuilt. 
 Thirty years ago it was remarkable for the variety of its antique archi- 
 tecture, all of which has been destroyed : the Lady Chapel at the back 
 would have suffered the same fate, but for the strenuous exertions of the 
 parishioners. It has many curious monuments, the most remarkable 
 being that of the poet Gower, the friend of Chaucer, and the favourite 
 poet of the unfortunate Richard II. Here are also buried Edmund 
 Shakspere, the youngest brother of the immortal "William, and his friend 
 
 Henslowe, the great theatrical 
 manager ; Fletcher, the ally 
 of Beaumont ; and, greater 
 than all, Philip Massinger, 
 who died poor, without a 
 
 mark by which to know his 
 grave, his intei’ment being 
 simply noted in the parish 
 
 register as that of “ a stranger .” 
 A strongly-embattled Gate 
 protected the entrance from 
 Southwark to Old London 
 Biudgde in the reign of Eliza- 
 beth, and was usually gar- 
 nished with traitors’ heads in “ rich abundance,” as may be seen in our 
 
 cut, copied from Yisscher’s view, in 1579. The bridge was at that 
 
 period covered with houses, a narrow road passing through arcades be- 
 neath them ; and they abutted on props over the river on either side. 
 The open spaces on the bridge were few ; its general aspect is exhibited 
 in our view, as delineated by Hollar, in 1647. It was proudly spoken 
 of by our ancestors ; thus, in the translation of Ortelius, published by 
 J. Shaw, in 1603, he says of the Thames, — “It is beautified with 
 6tatelyc pallaces, built on the side thereof ; moreover, a sumptuous bridge, 
 
 GATE OLD LONDON BRIDGE. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 179 
 
 applied to it from its supposed unique character ; it was built entirely of 
 wood, cut and carved in Holland, brought over in pieces, and fastened, 
 when erected on the bridge, with wooden pegs only. The other houses 
 do not demand particular notice ; they were allowed to incommode the 
 structure till 1758, when, for considerations of public safety, they were 
 removed. In Scott’s view of London Bridge, 1756 (now in the Yernon 
 Gallery), we can trace the ruinous remains of the old Nonesuch House, 
 as well as fragments of the Southwark Gate, and the squalid buildings 
 that were heaped on the ancient structure. The arches were rendered 
 still narrower by protecting them from the wear of water by wooden 
 
 sustayned upon nineteen arches, with excellent and beauteous housen 
 built thereon.” Camden, in his great work, the “ Britannia,” says — “ It 
 may worthily carry away the prize from all the bridges in Europe,” being 
 “ furnished on both sides with passing faire houses, joining one to another 
 in manner of a street.” Two of these buildings we may briefly describe : 
 the first of these was a picturesque wooden gate and tower, erected in 
 1579 ; the second, a little farther, on the seventh and eighth arches from 
 the Southwark side, was the far-famed “ Nonesuch House,” a term 
 
 OLD LONDON BRIDGE. 
 
180 
 
 THE HOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 “ starlings,” which may be seen in our cut above. By this means many 
 of them were impassable, and others only afforded passage for very small 
 boats; this contraction produced a fall of water of several feet, and at 
 every change of tide it rushed through with great noise and foaming 
 velocity, carrying boats beyond Billingsgate. Many lives and much 
 property were lost yearly, and ultimately this bridge (erected by Peter 
 of Colechureh in 1209) ceased to be used, after the opening of the new 
 bridge in 1831 ; soon afterwards it was entirely removed. In the 
 
 HOUSES ON LONDON BRIDGE, 1756. 
 
 process of clearing away the foundations, many antiquities were dis- 
 covered ; it had been the great highway over the Thames from the 
 Homan era, and numerous relics were obtained, varying in date from 
 that period to our own. 
 
 Much of the ancient history of England is connected with this famed 
 old bridge, and it will be for ever associated with all the leading events 
 of “ Great London.” 
 
 AYc soon arrive at Billingsgate, now a fine and convenient market, but 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 181 
 
 a few years since a collection of dirty hovels and stalls, disgraceful to a 
 civilised community : it was built and enlarged from the designs of the 
 City architect, Mr. J. B. Bunning, between the years 1849 and 1853. It is 
 a picturesque erection, in the Italian style, of red brick, with stone arcades 
 and dressings. It has been a market from the earliest times, and the 
 toll on fishing-boats is noted in the laws of iEthelstan, who died a.d. 
 940.* It was first made a “free and open market for all sorts of fish,” 
 by an act of William III., hearing date 1699. Opposite the market, in 
 
 BILLINGSGATE. 
 
 Thames Street, is the New Coal Exchange, a noble building, also erected 
 by Mr. Bunning. The circular hall is decorated with figures of fossil 
 plants found in coal strata, and the whole of the ornament is similarly 
 appropriate ; it is surrounded by three tiers of galleries, and lighted by a 
 glass dome. 
 
 * The name is said to have been derived from Beiin, King of the Britons 400 years before Christ; 
 but upon no better evidence than that of Geoffrey of Monmouth, which is of not the slightest value : it 
 more probably obtained a name from the spot being owned by some of the old Saxon tribe of Belingas, 
 whose patronymic occurs in other localities. 
 
182 
 
 THE HOOK OF TIIE THAMES. 
 
 The long facjade of the Custom-house next attracts the eye, with its 
 noble esplanade, adjoining Billingsgate Market. It is from the design 
 of Sir Robert Smirke, in 1825, the old Custom-house having been 
 destroyed by fire February 12, 1814. The long room is one of the 
 largest in Europe, being 199 feet by G6, and nearly 40 feet in height. 
 Here is transacted the principal business of our enormous London trade, 
 
 THE CUSTOM-HOUSE. 
 
 and no more striking picture of the vast importance of our city can be 
 given than this always busy scene presents. 
 
 The Tower of London is the next great feature on the Thames. The 
 esplanade, now closed to the public, once formed an agreeable promenade. 
 We see from the water the Traitor’s Gate, with its round towers at each 
 angle, and the deep stone stairs that led to the prison from the water. 
 This gate exhibits a specimen of the most ancient part of the fortifica- 
 tions, being surrounded by a covered way, and provided with loopholes, 
 by which archers might defend it from external assailants, or harass 
 them within if they obtained entrance. Above it rises the Bloody 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 183 
 
 Tower, so named from the traditionary story of its being the scene of 
 the murder of the young princes, sons of Edward IV. It has no 
 doubt been — 
 
 “ With many a foul and midnight murder fed.” 
 
 Above all rises the square mass of the White Tower, the oldest part of 
 the buildings, and a conspicuous object from many points of the river. 
 
 THE TOWER. 
 
 It was erected by Gundulph, the clerical architect to the founder, 
 William the Conqueror, and was begun in 1078 ; the walls are from ten 
 to twelve feet in thickness. It has been occasionally repaired, and the 
 external features somewhat altered by the insertion of windows, and the 
 addition of cupolas in the time of William III. ; but it is substantially 
 ancient : the staircases and rooms are all antique. The council-chamber, 
 and the vaulted rooms on the first floor, are of much interest ; but the 
 
184 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 great feature of the interior is the small Chapel of St. John, the most 
 perfect piece of Norman architecture the metropolis can show, and which 
 was used for centuries hy our ancient kings when the Tower was their 
 chief royal London residence. It is supported by massive round columns, 
 with capitals simply decorated, and has an ambulatory outside them ; 
 the end is apsidal, and it is lighted hy deeply-recessed, round-headed 
 
 CHAPEL IN THE TOWER. 
 
 windows. It was for a long time used as a repository for records; 
 which have now all been removed. 
 
 From the Tower Stairs the view, looking either way, is very striking, 
 the river is crowded with shipping and steamers, and from this point 
 begins that succession of vessels which affords the voyager so grand an 
 idea of the vast trade of the British metropolis. There are, perhaps, few 
 sights in the world more striking — certainly none more calculated to 
 make an Englishman proud of his country. Here are not only the 
 merchantmen of every part of the Queen’s dominions, but the ships that 
 bear “to and fro” the wealth of every civilised nation and people. 
 ‘ ‘ The Tool of the Thames ” — for so is named that portion of our noble 
 river that runs between the Isle of Dogs and the Tower — is truly a grand 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 185 
 
 been densely populated. The Church of St. Olave, with its low square 
 steeple, is first noticed after passing London Bridge ; the church at the 
 foot of the bridge on the City side is also dedicated to the same saint. * 
 Near it in olden times stood the mansions of the Earls of Warren and 
 Surrey, of the Prior of Lewes, the Abbots of St. Augustine’s, Canterbury, 
 and other important personages. Then came an open space, still known 
 
 * St. Olave was the first Christian king of Norway, and was martyred by his rebellious subjects 
 a.d. 1030. He assisted King Etlielred, his godfather, in driving the Danes from London and South- 
 wark, coming up the Thames with a strong fleet, and planning the destruction of London Bridge, which 
 thus cut off the two bodies of invaders, and made them an easier victory. The dedication of these two 
 churches, on the scene of his prowess, is generally thought to have originated in gratitude for his timely 
 aid. Tooley Street is a modern corruption of St. Olave’s Street. 
 
 and glorious sight; the proudest “station” in the world: where gather 
 vessels of all sizes, of every form and character, from every seaport of 
 the globe. 
 
 The Surrey side of the river, from London Bridge to Kotherhithe, is 
 now covered with warehouses and buildings : anciently it was open fields 
 and grazing grounds ; it is only in comparatively recent time it has 
 
 SHIPS AT TUW EH STALKS. 
 
 B B 
 
18G 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 by its old name, liorslydown, where the parish butts were set up for 
 archery in the days of Henry YIII. ; a mill belonging to the Knights of 
 St. John of Jerusalem was close by the river-side, and the large monas- 
 tery of Bermondsey at about half a mile distant from it. Towards the 
 middle of the seventeenth century building commenced in this quarter ; 
 it has increased until Rotherhithe has been joined to Southwark by 
 streets. 
 
 Rotherhithe is a town of very ancient foundation, and some etymo- 
 logists derive its name from two Saxon words, signifying “the Sailor’s 
 
 ROTHERHIlHE CHURCH: TUNNEL PIER. 
 
 Haven.” It was originally part of the royal manor of Bermondsey, and 
 the residence of some of our early kings. Edward III. here fitted out 
 one of his fleets. It is now chiefly remarkable for the Commercial 
 Docks, which are said to occupy the trenches first cut by Canute in the 
 eleventh century, and which extended to Battersea, thus turning South- 
 wark into a sort of island, as a defence against attacks in that quarter. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 187 
 
 The docks arc five in number, and comprise about sixty acres of water and 
 forty of land, and they have immense granaries near them. Close beside 
 Rotherhithe Church is the entrance to the Thames Tunnel, which unites 
 the hanks of the river by an underground communication, consisting of a 
 double passage, conjoined by a central arcade lit with gas, with footways 
 on each side for pedestrians, and a carriage-way ; but as it would 
 require a very lengthy inclined plane to the mouth of the Tunnel on 
 each side, that part of the scheme has never been carried out : foot 
 passengers descend by a well-staircase. Each archway is about 20 feet 
 in height ; the entire width of the Tunnel is 35 feet, and at high water 
 it is 75 feet below the surface. It was planned by the late Sir Isambart 
 Brunei in 1823 ; and on the 25th of March, 1843, it was first opened to 
 passengers. It is kept open day and night, the toll being one penny ; 
 and, on some occasions, a kind of fancy fair has been held in it. 
 
 From the Tower to the entry to this Tunnel, at Wapping, the Thames 
 is lined with warehouses, wharves, and docks. Of the latter, the most 
 important are St. Katherine’s Docks, in close contiguity to the Tower. 
 They take their name from the old hospital dedicated to St. Katherine, 
 which once stood on this site, and which was founded by Matilda, the 
 wife of King Stephen, a.d. 1148. 
 
 The London Docks adjoin St. Katherine’s, and have three entrances 
 from the Thames. They were constructed by John Rennie, and opened 
 in 1805. The larger docks can accommodate more than 300 vessels. 
 There is warehouse-room for 220,000 tons of goods, and cellarage for 
 80,000 pipes of wine. These cellars are one of “ the sights ” of London, 
 and a “ tasting ticket ” for wines is a privilege strangers are generally 
 anxious to obtain through merchants who keep stock here. 
 
 Wapping, Shadwell, and Limehouse (and the hamlets of Ratcliffe and 
 Poplar) are the parishes in which these docks are situate. Their 
 churches may be seen from the river, but they are comparatively modern, 
 and call for no especial remark. The tower of St. Anne’s, Limehouse, 
 is most conspicuously seen where the river widens to the well-known 
 “Pool of the Thames,” and is crowded with craft of all kinds — a more 
 striking scene than can be elsewhere viewed between London and 
 
188 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 the Nore. The river here sweeps round “ Cuckold’s Point,” where the 
 gates of the Regent’s Canal may be seen ; those of the City Canal, 
 which cuts across the Isle of Dogs to save the circuit made by the 
 river opposite Greenwich; and the Entrance to the West India Docks. 
 These are said to be the largest in the world. They are nearly three 
 times as extensive as the London Docks, and include about 290 acres. 
 The Import Dock, to the north, can accommodate 250 vessels of 300 tons 
 each; and the southern, or Export Dock, can hold 195. They were 
 
 ENTRANCE TO THE WEST INDIA DOCKS. 
 
 commenced in the year 1800, Jessop being the engineer, and opened two 
 years afterwards. They occupy the whole length of the back of the 
 Isle of Dogs, from Limehousc to Blackwall ; their tall warehouses and 
 tiers of ships rise boldly above its level, and form a striking background 
 as we pass them on the Thames. The canal which cuts across it is 
 nearly three quarters of a mile long, with lock-gates at each end 45 feet 
 in width ; it is now chiefly used as a dock. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 189 
 
 The river bank of the island is generally known as Millwall, a name 
 derived from the embankment, once surmounted by windmills, of which 
 one still remains, and is seen in our engraving. 
 
 At Deptford, opposite, we arrive at the first town in Kent. Its name 
 has little altered in the course of ages, so that its original meaning, deep 
 ford, may still be traced. This manor was given by William the 
 Conqueror to one of his followers, Gilbert de jVTaignent, who erected a 
 
 ISLE OF DOBS. 
 
 castle here. It is chiefly remarkable as the place of residence of Peter 
 the Great, when he lived here to learn the art of ship-building ; and as 
 containing the Royal Dockyard, established as early as the time of Henry 
 VIII., and continued with improvements to the present day. 
 
 The old church at Deptford is appropriately dedicated to St. Nicholas, 
 the patron of seafaring men. The tower, of flint and stone, is embattled. 
 In the church is the monument to Captain Edward Fenton, who accom- 
 panied Frobisher in his voyages, and was afterwards engaged in the 
 
190 
 
 THE KOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 action with the Spanish Armada. He died 1G03. Another monument 
 is to the memory of Peter Pett, master shipwright in the King’s Yard 
 here, who died 1662, and who first invented the war-ship known as a 
 frigate. His family had long been distinguished for superior talent in 
 ship-building, and his father, Phineas Pett, built, in 1637, tho Sovereign 
 of the Seas, the largest ship ever built before, and mounted with 
 
 DEPTFORD DOCKYARD. 
 
 160 guns. The meetings of the corporation of the Trinity House were 
 originally held in Deptford; the hospital for old mariners still adjoins 
 the church.* 
 
 * “ The society of the Trinity House, founded by Sir Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to 
 Henry VIII., was first established at this place, and incorporated by the name of ‘ The Master, Warden, 
 and Assistants of the Guild or Fraternity of the most glorious and undivided Trinity, and of St. Clement, 
 in the parish of Deptford, Stroud, in the county of Kent.* This company consists of a master, deputy- 
 master, tliirty-one elder brethren, and an unlimited number of inferior members, out of whom the elder 
 brethren are elected. Among these are always some of the great officers of state ; the remainder are 
 captains either in the royal navy or of merchantmen. This corporation, having for its object the 
 increase and encouragement of navigation, the good government of seamen, and the security of 
 merchantmen on the coasts, is invested with the powers of examining the mathematical classes in 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 191 
 
 A small river, the Ravensbourne, joins the Thames at Deptford. 
 Rising out of a pure stream on Iveston Heath, it pursues its pleasant 
 course, — 
 
 “Wanders in Hayes and Bromley, Beckingham vale. 
 
 And straggling Lewisham, to where Deptford Bridge 
 Uprises, in obedience to its flood.” 
 
 In the river a little below was placed, as a hospital ship for all nations, 
 
 THE OLD DREADNOUGHT. 
 
 the Dreadnovglit, which had been famous in many sea-fights of Nelson’s 
 
 Christ’s Hospital ; of examining and licensing masters of ships, appointing pilots botli for the royal navy 
 ani for merchant ships ; settling the rates of pilotage ; erecting, ordering, and maintaining light-houses, 
 buoys, beacons, and other sea-marks for the better security of ships ; granting license to seamen to row 
 on the Thames in time of peace, or when past service ; licensing aliens to serve on board English ships ; 
 hearing and determining complaints of officers and seamen in the merchant service, subject to an appeal 
 to the Admiralty. The revenue of the company, which arises from tonnage, ballastage, beaconage, 
 &c., and from contingent benefactions, is applied (after defraying the expenses of light-houses, &c.) to 
 the relief of decayed seamen, their widows, and orphans. The members of this corporation enjoy 
 various privileges and immunities. The ancient Hall at Deptford, where their meetings were formerly 
 held, was pulled down about the 3 T ear 1787, and an elegant building erected for that purpose in London, 
 near the Tower. The arms of this corporation are argent , a cross gules between four ships of three 
 masts in full sail, proper.” — Lysons. 
 
192 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 era. It was used for a charitable institution, supported by voluntary 
 contributions, and the old vessel, now broken up, was granted for the 
 purpose to the Seamen’s Hospital Society by the Government. 
 
 We now arrive at Greenwich : that town has been famous since the 
 days of the Saxons, who named it Grenewic, a name it has retained, with 
 very slight alteration, to the present day. Its park is a favourite resort 
 for Londoners ; its Hospital the pride of England. 
 
 We have been voyaging among the ships of all nations, with huge 
 store-houses, quays, and wharves on either side ; the river now, however, 
 
 GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 
 
 widens out, and begins to clear somewhat ; the steam-boat has a freer 
 pathway, and may proceed with less hazard of running down some barge 
 or row-boat, of which there seems to the inexperienced eye a peril 
 perpetual, all the way from the Tower, through “the Pool,” and in the 
 over-crowded highway that leads from London downwards. A sudden 
 turn brings us within view of Greenwich. Taken from any point of 
 view the Hospital is “a Palace” — beautiful in construction, graceful in 
 all its proportions, as grand and imposing a structure as any nation of 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 193 
 
 the modern world can show. But it is especially striking when seen as 
 we voyage the Thames, either upwards or downwards ; and dead must be 
 the heart of him who does not share the sentiment — if he cannot repeat 
 the lines — of the poet : — 
 
 “ Hail! noblest structure, imaged on the wave! 
 
 A nation’s grateful tribute to the brave : 
 
 Hail ! blest retreat from war and shipwreck, hail ! ” 
 
 It is not because here many monarchs had their chosen seat, that as a 
 “royal” palace it was famous for centuries— it is not even because it 
 “ gave Eliza birth ” that we 
 
 “ Kneel and kiss the consecrated earth ; ” 
 
 but because here veterans repose after years of tempest and battle — 
 maimed many of them, aged all of them ; they have done their work ; 
 they have earned repose as the right of toil, and honour as the meed of 
 victory. Yery recently arrangements have been made by which a large 
 proportion of the veterans who used to harbour here have become “ out- 
 pensioners many of them, however, yet traverse these walks, and the 
 glories associated with the Hospital will endure for ever. 
 
 The Old Palace at Greenwich, commenced by Duke Humphrey, 
 enlarged by the fourth Edward, added to by Henry YII., embellished 
 by Henry YIII., by whom it was named Placentia, or “the Manor of 
 Pleasaunce,”* and subsequently a favourite residence of Edward VI., 
 Mary, Elizabeth, and the four kings ot the Stuarts, and one of the 
 dwellings of the Lord Protector — that is not the palace our brave seamen 
 inhabit as their own “ for ever.” The present hospital stands partly on 
 its site, and during the reign of W illiam and Mary it was dedicated to 
 its high and holy purpose — the good and merciful suggestion emanating 
 from the queen. Although principally the work of the architect Wren, 
 it was added to by successive sovereigns, and finally completed by George 
 II. — large sums having been supplied for its “finishing” out of the 
 forfeited estates of the Earl of Derwentwater (in 1715), during the reign 
 
 * Henry VIII. made Greenwich, as Lambard says, “ a pleasant, perfect, and princely palaice ; ” 
 keeping his state here “ with great noblenesse and open court,” “ with revels, masques, disguisings, 
 and banquets royal.” 
 
 C C 
 
194 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 of George I.* From these estates, the hospital still derives a revenue, 
 augmented from other sources — a small tax upon all seamen, duties 
 arising from certain lighthouses, market rents in the town, and forfeited 
 and unclaimed prize-money. 
 
 At the entrance to the park, fronting it, and immediately behind the 
 hospital, is the Naval School, where numbers of happy boys may be 
 seen during play-hours. The long colonnade on each side was con- 
 
 THE NAVAL SCHOOL, GREENWICH. 
 
 strueted for their use in wet weather. The whole was built in 1783, 
 from the designs of “ Athenian Stuart.” The boys are fully educated for 
 sea-service, and arc bound to it for seven years on leaving the school ; 
 many sailors have been trained here to fight their country’s battles, and 
 afterwards repose upon their laurels, in their old age, close to the scene 
 of their earliest education. 
 
 The Observatory at Greenwich occupies the site on which formerly 
 stood “ a tower,” which tower was “ sometimes a habitation for the 
 
 The hospital was opened for the reception of pensioners in the month of January, 1705. 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 195 
 
 younger branches of the royal family, sometimes the residence of a 
 favourite mistress, sometimes a prison, and sometimes a place of defence.” 
 It was founded by Charles II., for the benefit of his “ pilots and sailors,” 
 “ for the purpose of ascertaining the motions of the moon, and the places 
 of the fixed stars, as a means of discovering that great desideratum, the 
 longitude at sea.” 
 
 The town of Greenwich* is busy, populous, and prosperous ; its church 
 contains many interesting monuments; it is, however, comparatively 
 modern, having been consecrated in 1718, occupying the site of a very 
 venerable edifice, the old Church of St. Alphege. Here, as will be 
 supposed, rest many of our naval heroes. There is one object, fronting 
 the palace on the waterside, that will attract the eye of all passers ; it is 
 a monument, erected by public subscription, to the memory of a young 
 and gallant French officer, Lieutenant Bellott, who died a volunteer in 
 the service of England, the companion and friend of Arctic voyagers. 
 
 While at Greenwich, we may visit Blackheath, — “ so called, as some 
 think, from the appearance of the soil, or, as others suppose, from its 
 bleak situation,” — the picturesque villages of Lewisham and Sydenham, 
 and the venerable mansion of Eltham, concerning which the history o 
 many periods is full. Nor may we pass unnoticed an object seen from 
 many parts of the river, and from the adjacent country, as well os from 
 the heights and house-roofs iu and about London, that wonder of the 
 modern world, the Crystal Palace. 
 
 On the shore opposite to Greenwich, after passing the extremity of 
 the Isle of Dogs, is Blackwall, famous chiefly for its fertility in pro- 
 ducing the tiny fish known as whitebait. 
 
 Passing the East India Docks, with another “ forest of masts,” we 
 reach the estuary of the river Lea ; here it enters the Thames, having, 
 after its rise in Leagrave Harsh, near Luton, in Bedfordshire, adorned 
 the lordly demesnes of Luton Hoo, Brocket Hall, and Hatfield, and 
 watered and refreshed Hertford, Ware, Hoddesdon, Broxbourne, Ghes- 
 hunt, Waltham Abbey, Enfield, Edmonton, Tottenham, Walthamstow, 
 
 * “ Grenewic, or Grenevie, as this place was called by the Saxons, is literally the green village ; 
 meaning, perhaps, the village on the green.” — Lysons. 
 
196 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 and Bow. It is “the gulfy Lea, with sedgy tresses,” of Pope; and 
 “ the wanton Lea, that oft doth lose its way,” of Spenser. 
 
 For a mile, and often more, in breadth, the river Thames in Essex is 
 bordered by a low swampy plain ; upon which, however, a range of 
 small hills look down and form an agreeable background ; but for beauty 
 of scenery, and those interests which are derived from “history, tradition, 
 and places populous,” we must refer to Kent, which not unjustly claims 
 pre-eminence as “ the garden of England.” 
 
 We must pass the somewhat distant village of Charlton, with its old 
 
 WOOLWICH. 
 
 manor-house of the time of James I. — keep in sight, as a most pleasant 
 view, the far-famed Shooter’s Hill — and rest awhile at Woolwich, to 
 visit, if we can and may, the noblest dockyard of the world, — its foun- 
 dry, its arsenal, its schools, and its barracks.* It is the most ancient of 
 
 * Woolwich is, in Doomsday, called Hulriz, or the dwelling on a creek of the river. The records of 
 suc:eeding periods mention it under the title of Wulevvick, and afterwards Woolwiche.” 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 197 
 
 those magazines of our national strength and glory, and has furnished 
 our country with most of its largest ships during the course of several 
 reigns, — from that of Henry VIII., when the big Ilctrry Grace de Dieu 
 was launched here, to that of Queen Victoria, when it may be said to 
 have achieved its highest glory. 
 
 It is not our purpose to describe Woolwich; to do so would require 
 a volume, and not a page. It is the great school of our artillery — a 
 branch of the service in which officers and men are alike eminent for 
 that educated intelligence which gives the soldier true strength. The 
 Arsenal is one of the chief wonders of England : science has here carried 
 machinery to perfection. The Academy is admirably governed : hence 
 issue the cadets, who obtain rank according to ability and desert. The 
 dockyards give employment to thousands of artisans, shipwrights, and 
 labourers. The war-ships here created bear the flag of England over 
 the waters of every sea and ocean of the world, — 
 
 “ Far as the breezes blow, the billows roam, 
 
 Survey our empire and behold our home.” 
 
 From Horth Woolwich the Dockyard* may best be seen, with its 
 long sea or river wall, extending from Charlton to the lower part of the 
 town ; and this surface being covered with sheds, factories, and basins 
 (containing many of our war-steamers, with several ships building of 
 the first class), it assumes a singularly interesting appearance. The 
 river here is also dotted with picturesque hulks, reminding one of olden 
 times and fights long past ; they loom large against the departing sun- 
 light, w 7 ith the dockyard shears rearing up, endeavouring to compete 
 with the great factory funnel for height. In the distance may be seen 
 many of the numerous shipping dropping up the river with the last of 
 the flood-tide. 
 
 Greenwich and Woolwich are neighbours. How large a volume of 
 thought is suggested by the union of two such names ! 
 
 * Visitors are admitted by signing their names in a book at the dockyard gates, and the wonders of 
 the great steam hammer, and the interesting process of boring a cylinder for a steam engine, with the 
 lathes, where metal shavings are cut twenty to thirty feet long, are certainly worth the trouble and 
 expense of “ a return ticket ” from London. 
 
108 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 The extensive marsh land at Plumstead, adjoining Woolwich, is now 
 much used by the Military Academy for gunnery practice of all kinds, 
 for which it is admirably adapted. The Thames partially encircles it, 
 like a bent bow, and the chief roads cut it off from general traffic. It 
 
 WOOLWICH DOCK Y AM). 
 
 is a large tract of grass land, lying by itself in comparative solitude, 
 used as grazing ground, or market gardens. 
 
 On the eastern side of the cheering village of Eiuth, the Darent 
 contributes its waters to the Thames, — 
 
 “ The silver Darent, in whose waters clear. 
 
 Ten thousand fishes play and deck his pleasant stream 
 
 it is joined by the Cray, another “faire” river, in the marshes near the 
 Crayford Saw Mills ; the former rising near Westerham, the latter near 
 Orpington, in Kent, and both flowing through districts famous in the 
 annals of the kingdom, — majestic mansions, picturesque churches, his- 
 toric sites, fertile plains, quiet villages, and busy towns — the busiest of 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES, 
 
 199 
 
 which is Dartford— happily intermixed. The conjoined rivers enter the 
 Thames very near “Long Reach Tavern.” 
 
 . 0ur sketch of Erith was taken from the pier, looking up the river ; the 
 limited space only represents the few houses nearest the water, with the 
 pretty church and the rising woodland at the back. The sun was 
 passing through a cloud, which cast a shadow over the background, 
 
 ERITH. 
 
 giving all the near objects that glittering light so peculiar to the water. 
 It is certainly one of the most charming spots on the river. 
 
 R T or is the coast opposite, low and uninviting and unhealthy as it 
 seems, without its interest. Here the river Roding pays its tribute 
 to the Thames; the spire of Larking Church is seen in the distance; 
 Dagenham Reach, Hornchurch Marshes, and “the Rands,” indicate the 
 nature of the low-lying fields and sheets of water that skirt the great 
 river’s banks. About Purfleet, however, there is a gradual rise of 
 chalky cliffs, on one of which was placed the standard of England when 
 
200 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 our island was threatened by that Spanish invasion which Providence 
 “ set at nought.” 
 
 Greenhithe and North fleet follow Erith, as we descend the river on the 
 Kentish side. They are large and populous villages, approaching the 
 size and character of towns. On the high land above the former are 
 modern villa residences, commanding extensive views of the river and 
 the opposite county of Essex. Near it is Stone Church, one of the finest 
 and most interesting of the Kentish churches. It is in the early English 
 style, and abounds with beautiful architectural details. It stands on a 
 commanding eminence, and is clearly seen from the Thames as we 
 
 GBAVS CHUBCU. 
 
 approach Greenhithe. At Northfleet is one of the largest churches of 
 the diocese of Canterbury, possessing some fine old brasses, some ancient 
 oak stalls, and other curious relics of ancient date. The chalk pits, which 
 first appear a little west of Greenhithe, may be best studied at Northfleet. 
 
 Between Greenhithe and Northfleet, on the Essex side of the river, 
 stands the lonely Church of Grays, or Grays Thurrock. The river 
 bends round here, and forms a reach known as South Hope. The marshy 
 lands resemble the scenery of Holland ; and the numerous ditches, 
 pollards, willows, and groups of cattle, remind the spectator of pictures 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 201 
 
 that have made the Dutch School of Art famous. This church stands 
 close to the Thames, the marshes being protected from overflow by 
 embankments. It is surrounded by trees, hut no house is near it, and 
 its isolation is very striking when approached over the dreary marsh land 
 by which it is environed. 
 
 Soon the spires of populous Gravesend come in sight ; it is the first 
 port on the river, and directing the eye to the shore opposite, we obtain 
 a view of the time-honoured fort of Tilbury. 
 
 The earliest notice of Gravesend occurs in Domesday Book, where it 
 is termed Gravesham ; but early in the next century it is termed Gravcs- 
 
 ORAVESEND BEACH. 
 
 hende ; the name is probably derived from the Graaf (Port-reeve, or 
 Governor’s) ham (or home). The port is of very ancient date, but its 
 history is not fertile of incident. It has risen into its present importance 
 very rapidly, and increased enormously within the last thirty years. 
 Steamboats and railways have conspired to do this, and the cheapness and 
 quickness of these modes of transit have made Gravesend a favourite 
 place for Londoners to spend their leisure time. The fields in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the town have been covered with streets, and Windmill Hill 
 with houses ; the old mill, however, remains, where a mill has been since 
 the days of Elizabeth , before which time a beacon was placed there to 
 
 d u 
 
202 
 
 TI1E BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 warn the country — a use for which this hill was well adapted, as it is 
 179 feet above the level of the river at high-water mark. 
 
 In the low lands at Milton is the entrance to the Thames and Medway 
 Canal, which is now only navigable to Higham ; it was continued thence 
 for some miles through a tunnel opening to the Medway opposite 
 Rochester. It is now drained, and used by the .North Kent Railway. 
 On the rising ground above the marsh lands we can distinguish Chalk 
 Church, a lonely building in the midst of a few weather-beaten trees ; it 
 is chiefly remarkable for a curious sculpture over its door, representing 
 
 CL1FFE CHURCH. 
 
 a grotesque figure in a short doublet, holding a flagon of drink, and 
 gazing upward at a still more grotesque figure of a tumbler. It is sup- 
 posed to commemorate the festivities known as Church Ales, in the olden 
 time — annual feasts of ale and bread, bequeathed by some parishioner as 
 a religious festival, and which was converted into a sort of county fair, or 
 holiday, by the people. 
 
 That part of the Thames known to seamen as “ the Lower Hope” is 
 formed by the Gravesend and Milton Marshes, and those of Higham aud 
 Cliffe, and the Essex shore. 
 
THE BOOK OF TI1E THAMES. 
 
 203 
 
 The bold promontory stretching forth on the Kentish shore beyond 
 these marshes is Cliffe, or Bishop’s Clive, as it was anciently termed. 
 The village and church occupy the summit, and the view of the winding 
 of the Thames from Gravesend to the sea is very striking from this 
 point ; a long tongue of marsh land is at its foot, which causes an ex- 
 tensive curve in the river. The turn is known as Lower Hope Point, 
 the water beyond as Sea Beach. 
 
 The Thames now flows rapidly to the sea, passing between the flat 
 lands of Essex, and the higher, but not more interesting, Kentish shore. 
 
 Canvey Island, scarcely to be distinguished from the other lowlands of 
 Essex, is on our left ; it comprises about 3,500 acres of pasture land, and 
 is the “ Convennos” of Ptolemy and the ancient authors. As Sea Beach 
 is entered — the last grand expanse of its waters — we notice the church 
 and village of Leigh, a port much frequented by hoys and small craft, 
 and used as a depot for lobsters brought from Norway and Scotland ; and 
 
204 
 
 THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 a little beyond is the stone, marking the boundary of the jurisdiction of 
 the city of London. We then descry the rising town of Southend, 
 situated at the debouchment of the river, and which is now united to 
 London by railway, a continuation of that at Tilbury. It is quite 
 possible in little more than an hour to reach this pleasant spot, and it has, 
 therefore, recently become much more largely populated. The houses 
 are in many instances good, and the terrace commands a delightful and 
 extensive view of the sea, the More, the Medway, Sheerness, and the 
 
 THAMES AMD MEDWAY. 
 
 ever-varying shipping of all nations so continually crowding the mouth 
 of the Thames. 
 
 Sheeeness, with its important dock-yard, is situated at the mouth of 
 the Medway, and is the principal town in the Isle of Sheppey. It owes 
 its greatness to the dockyard and fort erected there. The fort was 
 established in the reign of Charles II., and due regard was given to its 
 strength after the Dutch ships had entered the Medway. The fortifica- 
 tions were then greatly strengthened, and docks and storehouses were 
 also erected. These occasioned the building of a large town, chiefly for 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 205 
 
 workmen employed in the dockyard, now one of the most important in 
 the kingdom. 
 
 The neighbouring land is particularly low ; and a novice in pilotage 
 would hardly notice the junction of the Thames and Medway, sur- 
 rounded as it is by low lands, were not his attention attracted by the 
 masts of the guard and advanced line-of-battle ships, dockyard sheds, 
 &c., rising above the projecting point that forms the entrance of the 
 Medway. The water here is known as the Nore, and a vessel is moored 
 
 LltiHT VESSEL. 
 
 in the centre, which bears a light to direct vessels at night, or during 
 fog, into the Thames. 
 
 On reaching the Noee Light we arrive at the principal anchorage for 
 ships during the change of tide or wind, previous to advancing up the 
 river. The old red light vessel is associated with many ideas of the best 
 and happiest feelings of the sailor, on his arrival from abroad after a long 
 cruise, — with his sadder sensations, also, upon his final departure from 
 
206 
 
 TIIE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 his native country. It has been the scene of many a wreck, and in 
 the old war time, of many a fight, when French privateers used to lurk 
 about our coasts in foggy weather. In a picturesque point of view it 
 is most striking ; the red sides of the vessel, pitching at her moorings, 
 while the many different craft passing in every direction give variety 
 and contrast. 
 
 After passing the Nore, there is one prominent object on the Kentish 
 coast that will attract the attention of the voyager down the river before 
 
 THE UECULVEKS. 
 
 he reaches the open sea : two somewhat low square towers surmounted 
 by spires, generally known as “the Rectjlvers,” form a well-known 
 sea-mark. They are all that remains of the ancient Church of Reculver, 
 now an insignificant village, but formerly an important Roman station, 
 called Jtegulbt'um ; it is situated about three miles from Herne Bay, and 
 ten from Margate. Owing to the constant encroachment of the sea, the 
 church towers stand at the present time close to the edge of the low 
 
THE BOOK OF THE THAMES. 
 
 207 
 
 cliffs, and the bones of those interred in the old churchyard may he 
 distinctly seen protruding through the earth by all who resort to the spot. 
 The ancient Roman castrum surrounded the church ; parts of the walls 
 on the east, south, and west sides are yet to be seen ; many Roman anti- 
 quities have been discovered here, and imperial coins are even now 
 sometimes found after heavy rains. 
 
 The voyager is now on “ the open sea he has left the Thames, hut 
 he is still, so to speak, on the territory of England : 
 
 “ Far as the breezes blow, the billows roam, 
 
 Survey our empire, and behold our home ! ” 
 
 The ocean waves that roll around our coast are the fortifications that 
 protect us : 
 
 “ Britannia needs no bulwark, 
 
 No towers along tile steep ; 
 
 Her march is o’er the mountain wave. 
 
 Her home is ou the deep ! ” 
 
 Here, then, we close our pleasant task, trusting that our readers will 
 be no more weary than we are of records associated with the bountiful 
 and beautiful River Thames. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 VIRTUE AND CO., PKiM'iiKS, CiTV KUAl», UUiNOUNL 
 

 
 


 
 
 
 
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