//// 
 
 ( <r// f />//////rKJ . 
 
A 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 FROM 
 
 Aleppo to Jerufalem 
 
 At Eafter ^2). 1697. 
 
 By Hen.MaundrellM. A. late Fellow of Exeter ColL 
 and Chaplain to the Factory at Aleppo. 
 
 OXFORD 
 
 Printed at the T he a t e r, An. Dom. MDCCIII. 
 
Imprimatur, 
 
 GUIL. DEL JUNE, 
 Vice-Can. OXON. 
 
 A$ril%. 1703. 
 
TO T H E 
 
 READER. 
 
 rH E Author of this fhort Journal having 
 fbmetime fince fent a Copy of it into 
 England^ only for the private Entertainment of 
 fbme of His Friends ; They, finding with what a 
 Spiriit of Modefty, Ingenuity, and Truth it was 
 written, fbon refblv'd to make it Publick. Upon 
 notice hereof given to Him, He, with fbme un- 
 willi ngnefs, fubmitted to their judgement as to 
 the Publication ; but withall defired, that the Ori- 
 gina I might firft be amended by the enfuing Cor- 
 rections, and Additions. He had made them 
 partly from his own review of the Papers, after 
 they had lain cold a good while by him ; partly, 
 by the Advice of fbme Gentlemen of that Factory, 
 who had fince gone the fame Journey, and had 
 taken this Journal with them j and fb gave it a 
 new Authority by a frefh Examination of His 
 Obfervations. But by misfortune his defign'd Al- 
 terations did not arrive at Oxford^ till the Book 
 was almoft Printed off. Wherefore the Reader is 
 defired to accept candidly, thefe following Emen- 
 dations, which would have made the Work more 
 perfect, if they could have been inferted in the 
 
 a 2 Body 
 
Body of it, each in it's proper place. The pub- 
 lifhers thought a piece fo well writ, ought not to 
 appear abroad without the ufiial and proper orna- 
 ment of writings of this kind,variety of Sculptures ; 
 and it having been defign'd by the Author for a 
 fupplement to Sandys, their refblution, at firft, 
 was to furnifh it with fuch Cuts, as are wanting in 
 Him ; but le Brune being fince publifh'd, and in 
 every ones hands, fiich only are here inferted, as 
 are wanting in both. 
 
Corrections or Additions. 
 
 PAG. 17. I'm. %6. At the end of the account of Mer- 
 chab ; add ; This is probably the fame Cattle men- 
 tioned by Adrichomius and others under the name of 
 Margath ; to which the Bifhops of Balanea were forced 
 to tranflate their See by reafbn of the infults of the Sa- 
 racens. 
 
 P. i$. I. 28. At the River ZycuSj inftead of call'd by 
 the Romans, write, call'd alfo fometime Cams. 
 
 P. 16. I. itf. Inftead oi the Mountain on the other Jide^ 
 write, The Mountain hanging over it on that fide. 
 
 P. 38. /. 17. At Beroot, where it is faid, This place had 
 anciently the name ofBerytus, write, This place was call'd 
 anciently Berytus ; from which the Idol Baal-Berith is 
 fuppofed to have had his name. 
 
 P. 41. /. 7. After Nejiorms painted in the Greek Church \ 
 add ; Though they do not now profels, nor, I believe, 
 fo much as know his Herefy. 
 
 P. 42. /. 6. After the Inlcription TH2 TOT nPO- 
 2 I ON T o 2 j add ; Which was probably at firft an Al- 
 tar-Inlcription, relating to the Offertory in the Holy 
 Communion ; for it's ience feems to look that way, and 
 'tis well known, that the Comers to the Blefled Sacrament, 
 were call'd by the Ancients, by the peculiar name of 01 
 ^o(no^7if, as Valejius proves out of St. Chryfojlom. ValeJ. 
 Not. in Euf. Eccl. Htft. Lib. 7. Cap. p. 
 
 P. 48. /. 14. After probably the Cathedral of Tyre ; add ; 
 And why not the very fame that was erected by it's Bilhop 
 Paulinusj and honour 'd with that famous Conlecration 
 Sermon of Eufebius, recorded by himlelf in his Eccl. Hijl. 
 Ub. 1 o. Cap. 4. 
 
 P. 49. /. 7. Write, the Tjihmus to be a foil of a diffe- 
 rent Nature. 
 
 P. 64. /. ult. In the Account of the Fruitfulnefs of the 
 Holy Land, write thus. For than the plain Countrys no- 
 thing can be more fruitful, whether for the production of 
 
 Corn 
 
Corn or Cattle, and confequently of Milk. The Hills, tho' 
 improper for all Cattle, except Goats, yet being difpofed 
 into iuch beds as are afore defcrib'd, ferv'd very well to 
 bear Corn, Melons, Goards, Cucumbers, and fiich like 
 Garden fluff, which makes the principal food of thefe 
 Countrys for feveral Months in the Year. 
 
 T. 68. /. 12. After on his Crofs which is left entire, write 
 thus, being about ten or twelve yards fquare, and {land- 
 ing at this day fo high above the Common floor of the 
 Church, that you have 21 fhps or flairs to go up to it's top. 
 
 T. 72. /. 24. In the Defcripaon of the Cleft in the Rock 
 at Calvary, inftead of the Parenthefis ( as you may fee in 
 another Chappel under this ) write (as you may fee in an- 
 other Chappel contiguous to the fide of Calvary.) 
 
 P.*]f. /. 37. In the Defcription of the Sepulchres of 
 Kings, inflead oS.five or fix yards fquare, fay feven or 
 eight yards fquare. 
 
 T. 76. I. 22. Speaking of the doors of the faid Sepul- 
 chres, inftead of remaining entire, write, of which there 
 is only one that remains hanging, being left as it were on 
 purpofe to puzzle the beholders. 
 
 T. 81. /. 7. At the River Jordan, inflead of three yards, 
 write, ran two yards below the brink of it's Channel. 
 
 P. of. /. 4. At the Priells entring into the Sepulchre 
 for the Holy Fire, write, Enter'd in ihutting the door af- 
 ter them. 
 
 T. 112. /. f. In the beginning concerning Mount Ta- 
 lor, write, ftanding by it fclfin the plain of EJdralon 
 about two or three furlongs within the plain, and blot out, 
 at a f mall di fiance from the other Hills hereabout. 
 
 T. 118. /. 18. After the words, and enter d into the Val- 
 ley of Bocat\ add ; This Bocat feems to be the fame with 
 Bicath Aven mention'd Amos 1 . $■ together with Eden 
 and Damafcus, for there is very near it in Mount Ubanus 
 a place caifd Eden to this day. It might alfo have the 
 name of Auen that is vanity given it, from the Idolatrous 
 worihip of Baal, pradlifed at Balbeck. or Heliopolis, which 
 is fituate in this Valley ; this Valley is alfo mention'd in 
 
 the 
 
the Journal tflVedneJday May the $. and in both places, 
 mftead of" Bucca I would have it Bocat. 
 
 T. 124. lis- * n the Account of the Cloy Iter of St. 
 Jo/jus Church now a Moique, write, fupported by two 
 rows of Granate Pillars &c. And a little further after the 
 words Jurpajfing beaut) ; add ; Unlefs perhaps we were 
 tempted to overvalue what was fo fparmgly permitted to 
 our Survey. 
 
 T. 127. /. "}. Where mention is made of the Coffee-houfe, 
 write, (haded over head with trees, and with matts when 
 the boughs fail. 
 
 T. 128. /. 2. When mention is made of the Gate at 
 which St. Taul was let down, after the words let down m 
 a basket, write, This Gate is at prefent wall'd up by rea- 
 fbn of it's vicinity to the Eaff, Gate, which renders it of 
 little ufe. 
 
 y. 131./. 11. After the words Juppofed to be the Tomb 
 of Abel \ add ; and to have given the adjacent Country in 
 old times the name of Abilene. 
 
 T- 133. /. 2d. In the account of the extent ot'Balbeck, 
 lay, two furlongs inilead of three. 
 
 P. 134. /. 22. In the Deicription of the Temple of Bat- 
 beck, begin thus, The Temple is an oblong fquare, \w 
 breadth thirty two yards, and in length lixty four, of 
 which eighteen were taken up by the U&va@f or Anti- 
 Temple; which is now tumbled down, the Pillars being 
 broke that fuftain'd it. The body of the Temple, which 
 now ftands, is encompafTed with a noble Portico &c. 
 
 C P. 1 1 j. /. n. In the Defenption of the Gate of the Tem- 
 ple of Balbeck, write thus. The Gate of the Temple is 
 twenty one foot wide, but how high could not be mea- 
 fur'd, it being in part lill'd up with rubbifh, it is molded 
 and beautified all round with exquifite Sculpture; on the 
 nethermolt fide of the Portal is carv'd a Fame hovering 
 over the head as you enter, and extending it's wings two 
 thirds of the breadth of the Gate; and on each fide of the 
 Eagle is defcrib'd a Fame likewife upon the wing. The 
 Eagle carrys in it's Pounces a Caduieus, and in his beak 
 
 the 
 
the Strings or Ribbons coming from the ends of two 
 Fe/loons, whofe other ends are held and fupported on 
 each fide, by the two Fames. The whole feem'd to be a 
 piece of admirable Sculpture. 
 
 P. 142. /. 12. In our return from Tripoli homewards, 
 after thefe words, the nearejl and Jpeedieft way, I defire 
 to have this whole Paragraph inferted. All that occurr'd 
 to us new in thefe days travel, was a particular way ufed 
 by the Country People in gathering their Corn, it being 
 now harveft time. They pluck't it up by handfuls from 
 the roots; leaving the moft fruitful Fields as naked as if 
 nothing had ever grown on them. This was their pra&ife 
 in all places of the Eaft that I have feen, and the reafon 
 is, that they may lofe none of their ftraw, which is ge- 
 nerally very fhort, and necelfary for the fuftenance of 
 their Cattel, no hay being here made. I mention this be- 
 caufe it feems to give light to that expreflion of the Tfal- 
 mifty Tf. 129. 6. which wither eth afore it be plucked up. 
 Where there feems to be a manifeft allufion to this Cu- 
 flom. Our new tranflation renders this place otherwife : 
 but in fo doing it differs from moft, or all other Copys, 
 and here we may truly fay, the old is the better. There is 
 indeed mention of a mower in the next verfe, but then it 
 is fuch a mower as fills not his hand, which confirms ra^ 
 ther than weakens the preceding Interpretation. 
 
To Toe 
 
 Right Reverend Father in God 
 
 THOMAS 
 
 Lord Bishop of 
 
 ROCHESTER. 
 
 My Lord, 
 
 "1 2{0 M a large and confiant experience of 
 your Lordjhips favour ', / have all reafon to 
 believe that you will not think it tedious to 
 hear fomething of my Affairs, thd in them- 
 (elves below your Lordjhips notice and regard. 
 
 It is now more than a twelve month fince I arrived 
 in this place ; during all which time, I have had op- 
 portunity enough perfeclly to obferve, and difcover the 
 Genius of the Fablory, among whom my Lot is fallen. 
 And upon the refult of all my experience of them, I 
 am obliged to give them this jufi Commendation; That 
 they are a Society, highly meriting that excellent Cha- 
 
 b racier 
 
racier which is given of them in England ; and 
 which ( he fides the general vogue ) your Lordjhip has 
 fometime received from a mojl faithful, and judicious 
 hand, the excellent Bijhop Frampton. As he un- 
 doubtedly was the great Improver of the rare temper 
 of this Society, Jo he may well be efieemed befi able to 
 give them their true, and deferved Char after. I need 
 only add, that fuch they fill continue, as that incom- 
 parable lnfiruUor left them : That is, Pious, Sober, 
 Benevolent, devout in the Offices of Religion ; in Con- 
 verjation, innocently chearful; given to no plea fur es, 
 but juch as are honefi, and manly ; to no Communica- 
 tions, but fuch as the nicejl Ears need not be offended 
 at ; exhibiting in all their ABions thofe befi and truefi 
 figns of a Chriflian Spirit, a fincere, and chearful 
 friendfhip among themfelves, a generous Charity to- 
 ward Others, and a profound reverence for the Liturgy, 
 and Confiitution of the Church of England. It is our 
 firfi Employment every morning to folemni^e the dayly 
 Service of the Church, at which I am fure to have al- 
 ways a devout, a regular, and full Congregation. In 
 a word, I can jay no more, and lejs, I am Jure, I 
 ought not, than this, that in all my experience in the 
 world, I have never known a Society of young Gentle- 
 men, whether in the City, or Country, 1 had almofi faid 
 the TJriwtirfity too, Jo well dijpofedin all points as this. 
 Tour Lorafljip will conclude, that in confeauence of 
 all this, my prefent Station cannot but be very agree- 
 able. And tho in leaving England, I was feparated 
 from the greaiejl blejfingt to me in the world, your 
 Lordjhips kindnefs, and that of my friends at Rich- 
 mond, yet Imufl own, I have found here as rnuchre- 
 eompence, as could be matte for fuch a feparation. 
 
 Among 
 
Among other fatisfablions, one great one, which I 
 have had fince my Arrival, was a Voyage to the Holy 
 Land, in Company with fourteen others of our Fatlory. 
 We went by way of the Coafi : and having vifited the 
 fever al places Confecrated by the Life and Death of our 
 Blejfed Lord, we returned by way o/'Damafcus. if 
 there be any thing cither in thefe places which I have 
 vifited, or elfewhere in thefe Country s, touching which, 
 J may be capable of giving your Lord/hip any fatisfa- 
 Uion, by my poor obfervations, I Jhould ejleem it my 
 great happinefs, and my coming thus far would feem 
 compleatly recompenfed. 
 
 I intreat your Lordlhips Bleffing, 
 as being 
 
 Your Lordfhips 
 
 moft dutiful, 
 
 humble Servant, 
 
 Hen. MaundreU. 
 
To My 
 
 Ever Honoured Uncle 
 
 S r CHARLES HEDGES K\ 
 
 Judge of the High Court 
 
 O F 
 
 Admiralty of ENGLAND. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 AM fenjible of two General Defers [and You 
 rvillfoon obferve a great many more) running 
 through this whole Paper ; which might jujtly de- 
 ter me from presenting it to a Per (on of your 
 great Learning and Judgment. One is frequent Fr- 
 rours ; the other, Tedioujnefs : but it is your pleajure 
 to require it from me as it is : and I am Jure whatever 
 Faults there may be in it, yet there can be none Jo 
 great, as it would be for me to difbute your Injunctions. 
 I have nothing to do therefore but to recommend it to 
 your Favour, as it is offered up to your Commands, 
 rvith all it's Imperfeclions about it , only putting in a 
 
 b 3 word 
 
I 
 
 word or two, before 1 difmifs it, by way of Apology. 
 And fir [I ^ "as to the Err ours which you will be fure 
 to Note in it, I have this Mitigation to offer ; that 
 in a Swift and Tranjient view of places , fucb as 
 mine was, it was hardly pojftble for me, not to be jome- 
 times overfeen ; but however this 1 profefs with a clear 
 Conference, that whatever miftakes there may be, yet 
 there are no lies. 
 
 As to the Tedioufnefs of the Relations, the only De- 
 fence I have is by Jheltering my felf in the Crowd : 
 for it is a frailty more or lejs incident to moft men, 
 ejpecially Travellers, to abound, both in the fenfe they 
 have, and in the Accounts they give, of their own 
 Actions and Occurrences. If We light of any thing 
 worth noting, We are apt to overflow in jpeaking of it ; 
 and too often We fall into that greater folly of recording 
 fuel] things for very confiderable ones, as any difintereft- 
 ed perfon would be ready to think, We could have no 
 inducement to regard, but only becaufe they relate to our 
 own [elves. 
 
 This is an AffeRation^which however taflful, it may 
 he to^the perfons who ufe it, yet (I /{now by my own l$e- 
 fe ntments of it) is to others moft grating and difguftful. 
 When You come therefore to any fuch Naujeous places 
 m this Journal, You may pleafe topafs them over with 
 that Contempt which they deferve, but neverthelefs with 
 Jo me Indulgence to the Writer of them j for if this Va- 
 nity may be ever tolerated, Travellers are the men who 
 have the beft Claim to that favour. For it feems but a 
 J^eafonable Allowance, that they, who go through fo 
 many hazards and fatigues for the entertainment of 
 others, Jhould, in requital for all, be inddged a little 
 in this fweet folly, 
 
 I might 
 
I mighty infome meajure, have remedied the fault I 
 am now apologising for, by refcinding the dry part of 
 the Journal ; describing Roads and dtjlances, and bear- 
 ings of Places. But 1 confidered, that this, thd dry, 
 was not without it's ufe. And befides when I began to 
 Obliterate, I foon found that if IJhouldgo on, and 
 flrike out all that I thought not worth writing to Tou 9 
 there would in the end be nothing but an univerfal blot. 
 Be pleafed therefore to accept the Whole as it was 
 firflfet down without Addition or Diminution, do with 
 it as Tou pleafe. When Tou are tired with reading it y 
 You may Jupport your Patience as We did in Travelling 
 it over, by confidering, that what Tou are about is a 
 Pilgrimage ; that Tou need go it but once j and that 'tis 
 the proper nature and dejign offuch performances, to 
 have Jbmethmg in them of Mortification. 
 
 Honoured Sir, 
 lam 
 Your moft Dutiful Nephew 
 
 and Obliged humble Servant, 
 
 Hen. MaundreH, 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
d he oPrasvecl: of JUefnro. 
 
 Q> 
 
 WJ 
 
 U aa. i 
 
 '8- 
 
C « 3 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 FROM 
 
 Aleppo to Jerufalem 
 
 At Eafter A. D. 1697. 
 
 THERE being feveral Gentlemen of our Na- 
 tion ( fourteen in number ) determined for a 
 vifit to the Holy-Land at the approaching 
 Eafter, I refolved, tho' but newly come to 
 Aleppo, to make one in the fame defign : confidering that 
 as it was my purpofe to undertake this Pilgrimage fome 
 time or other, before my Return to England, fo I could 
 never do it, either with lefs prejudice to my Cure, or with 
 greater pleafure to my felf, than at this Juncture ; having 
 io large a part of my Congregation, abroad at the fame 
 time, and in my Company. 
 
 Purfuanc to this relblution, we fet out from Aleppi 
 Friday Feb.16. 1606. at three in the Afternoon, intending 
 to make only a fhort ftep that Evening in order to prove 
 how well we were provided with necellaries for our 
 Journey. Our Quarters this firft Night we took up at 
 the Honey-Kane ; a place of but indifferent Accommoda- 
 tion about one hour and a half Weft of Aleppo. 
 
 It mult here be noted, that, in Travelling this Country, 
 a Man does not meet with a Market-Town, and Inns, 
 
 A every 
 
2 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 every night, as in England '; The bed reception you can 
 iind here, is either under your own Tent, if the ieaibn 
 permit ; or elfe in certain pubhek Lodgments founded 
 in Charity for the ufe of Travellers. Thefe are called by 
 the Turks Kanes ; and are feated fometimes in the Towns 
 and Villages; fometimes at convenient diftances upon the 
 open Road. They are built in fafhion of a Cloyfter, en- 
 compafling a Court of thirty or forty yards fquare, more, 
 or lefs, according to the mealiire of the Founders Ability 
 or Charity. At thefe places all Commers are free to take 
 Shelter ; paying only a fmall fee to the Kane-keeper, and 
 very often without that acknowledgment. But mull ex- 
 pect nothing here generally but bare walls : as for other 
 Accommodations, of Meat, Drink, Bed, Fire, Proven- 
 der; with thefe it muft be every ones care to furnifh 
 himfelf." 
 
 Saturday Feb. 27. 
 
 From the Honey-Kane we parted very early the next 
 Morning; and proceeding Wcfterly as the day before, 
 arrived in one hour and a half at Oo-rem : an old Village 
 affording nothing remarkable but the ruins of a fmall 
 Church. From Oo-rem we came in half an hour to Keffre; 
 and in three quarters more to Effoyn. At this lalt place 
 we enter'd into the plains of Kefteen : proceeding in which 
 we came in one hour to another Village called Legene, 
 and half an hour more to Hozano, and in a good hour 
 more to Kefteen. Our whole Stage this day was about 
 five hours, our Courfe a little Southerly of the Weft. 
 
 The Plains of Kefteen are of a vaft Compafs: extend- 
 ing to the Southward beyond the reach of the Eye, and 
 in molt places very fruitful and well cultivated. At our 
 firft deicent into them at Effoyn, we counted twenty four 
 Villages, or places at a diftance refembling Villages, within 
 our View from one Station. The Soyi is of a reddifh co- 
 lour, very loofe and hollow ; and you fee hardly a ftone 
 in it. Whereas on it's Weft fide there runs along for many 
 miles together a high ridge of hills, djfcovenng nothing 
 
 but 
 
A Journey from- Aleppo to Jerusalem. 3 
 
 but vaft naked Rocks without the lealt fign of Mould, or 
 any ufeful Production : which yeilds an appearance, as 
 if nature had, as it were, in kindnefs to the husband-man, 
 purged the whole plain of thefe {tones : and piled them 
 all up together in that one Mountain. Kefteen it felf 
 is a large plentiful Village on the "Well fide of the plain. 
 And the Adjacent fields abounding with Corn, give the 
 Inhabitants great advantage for breeding Pidgeons: info- 
 much that you find here more Dove-Cots than other 
 Houfes. We few at this place, over the door of a Bagnio 
 a marble {tone, carved with the fign of the and the 
 Ao£x Yliiti &c. with a date not Legible. It was probably 
 the portal of fbme Church in ancient times : rbr I was 
 allured by the Inhabitants of the Village, that there are 
 many Ruins of Churches and Convents {till to bt feen m 
 the Neighbouring rocky Mountains. 
 
 Sunday Feb.%%. 
 Having a long flagc to go this day, we left Kefteen 
 very early : And continuing {till in the fame fruitful Plain 
 abounding in Corn, Olives, and Vines, we came in three 
 quarters of an hour to HarbanooJ'e : a fmall Village li- 
 tuated at the extremity of the Plain. Where after croHing 
 a fmall alcent, we came into a very rich Vally called 
 Rooge. It runs to the South farther than one can difcern, 
 but in breadth, from Eaft to Weft it extends not above 
 an hours riding; and is walled in ( as it were ) on both 
 fides, with high rocky Mountains. Having travelled in 
 this Vally, near four hours we came to a large water 
 called the Lake (or rather, according to the oriental 
 Ityle, the Sea ) of Rooge. Thro' the skirt of this Lake 
 we were obliged to pals ; and found it no fmall trouble 
 to get our Horfes, and much more our loaded Mules thro* 
 the water and mire. But all this Sea was fo dryed up, and 
 the road fo perfectly amended at our return, that we could 
 not then difcern, Co much as where the place was, which had 
 given us fo great trouble. From this Lake,we arrived in one 
 hour at Te-ne-ree \ a place where we paid our firft Caphar. 
 
 A 2 Thefc 
 
4 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem, 
 
 Thefe Caphars are certain duties, which travellers are 
 obliged to pay, at feveral palles upon the Road, to Offi- 
 cers, who attend in their appointed ftations to receive 
 them. They were at rirft levyed by Chnltians to yeild 
 a rccompence to the Country, for maintaining the ways 
 in good repair, and fcounng them from Arabs, and Rob- 
 bers. The Turks keep up lb gainful an ufage (till, pre- 
 tending the fame cauies lor it. But under that pretence 
 they take occafion to exact from Pallengers, especially 
 "Franks, arbitrary and unreafonable fums, and inttead of 
 being a fafeguard, prove the greatelt Rogues and Robbers 
 themfelves. 
 
 At a large hour beyond this Caphar, our Road led us 
 over the Mountains, on the Welt fide of the Vally of 
 Roogs. We were near an hour in crolling them, after 
 which we defcended into another Vally runing parallel 
 to the former, and parted from it only by the Jaft ndg 
 of Hills. At the firfl defcent into this Vally is a Village 
 called Bell-Maez from which we came in two hours to 
 Shoggle. Our courfe was, for the molt part of this day, 
 Weft South Weft. Our flage in all ten hours. 
 
 Shoggle is a pretty large, but exceeding filthy Town 
 Jituated on the River Orontes : over which you pafs by 
 a Bridge of thirteen fmall Arches to come at the Town, 
 The River hereabouts is of a good breadth ; and yet fo 
 rapid, that it turns great Wheels, made for lifting up the 
 Water, by its natural fwiftnefs, without any force added 
 to it, by confining its Stream. It's Waters are turbid, 
 and very unwholelome, and it's fifli worfe; as we found 
 by experience, there being no Perfon of all our Company, 
 that had eaten of them over Night but found himfelf 
 much indifpofed the next Morning. We lodged here in 
 a very large and handfome Kane, far exceeding what is 
 ufually feen in this fort of Buildings. It was founded 
 by the fecond Cuperli, and endowed with a competent 
 Revenue, for fupplying every Traveller, that takes up 
 his Quarters in it, with a competent portion of Bread, and 
 Broth, and Flefh, which is alwaies ready for thofe that 
 
 demand 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. ? 
 
 demand it, as very few people of the Country fail to do. 
 There is annext to the Kane., on it's Weft fide, another 
 Quadrangle, containing appartments for a certain number 
 of Alms-men : the charitable donation of the fame Cu- 
 perli. The Kane we found at our arrival, crouded with 
 a great number of Turkifh Hadgees, or Pilgrims bound 
 for Meccha. But nevertheless we met with a peaceable 
 reception amongfl them, tho' our faces were fet to a dif- 
 ferent place. 
 
 Monday Mar. I. 
 
 From Sboggle our Road led us at firft Wederly, in or- 
 der to our cro/ling the Mountain on that fide the Vally. 
 We arrived at the foot of the afcent in half an hour, but 
 met with fuch rugged and foul ways in the Mountains, 
 that it took us up two hours to get clear of them. After 
 which we defcended into a third Vally, refembling the 
 other two which we had pafled before. At the firit en- 
 trance into it is a Village called Be~da-me, giving the fame 
 name alfb to the Vally. Having travelled about two hours 
 in this Vally, we entred into a Woody Mountainous 
 Country, which ends the Bujljalkk of Aleppo , and begins 
 that of Tripoli. Our Road here was very Rocky, and 
 uneven ; but yet the variety, which it afforded, made 
 fome amends for that inconvenience. Sometimes it led 
 us under the cool fhade of thick Trees : fometimes thro' 
 narrow Vallys, water'd with frefh murmuring Torrents: 
 and then for a good while together upon the brink of a 
 Precipice. And in all places it treated us with the pro* 
 fpeel; of Plants, and Flowers of divers kinds : as Myrtles, 
 Oleanders, Cyclamens, Anemonies, Tulips, Marygolds, and 
 feveral other forts of Aromatick Herbs. Having fpent 
 about two hours in this manner we defcended into a low 
 Vally : at the bottom of which is a Fifliireinto the Earth, 
 of a great depth ; but withal fo narrow that it is not 
 difcernible to the Eye till you arrive juit upon it. Tho' 
 to the Ear a notice of it is given at a great diftance, by 
 reafon of the Noife of a Stream running down into it 
 
 from 
 
6 A Journey from jfteppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 from the Hills. We could not guefs it to be Jefs than 
 thirty yards deep. But it is ib narrow that a fmall Arch, 
 not four yards over, lands you on it's other fide. They 
 call it the Shecks IVife. A name given it from a Wo- 
 man of that Quality, who fell into it f and, I need not 
 add, perifhed. The depth of the Channel, and the noife 
 of the Water, are ib extraordinary, that one cannot pals 
 over it without fomething of Horrour. The fides of this 
 FifTureare firm and folid Rock, perpendicular and fmooth, 
 only feeming to ly in a wavy form all down, as it were 
 to comply with the motion of the Water : from which 
 obfervation we were led to conje&ure, that the flrcam, 
 by a long and perpetual current had, as it were, iaw'n 
 it's own Channel down into this unufual deepnefs: to 
 which effect the water's being penn'd up in fo narrow a 
 paflage, and it's hurling down itones along with it by it's 
 rapidity, may have not a little contributed. 
 
 From hence, continuing our courfe thro' a Road re- 
 fembling that b.fore defcribed, we arrived in one hour 
 at a fmall even part of ground called Hadyar ib Sultane, 
 or the Sultans ftone. And here we took up our Quar- 
 ters this Night under our Tents. Our Road this day 
 pointed for the moft part South Weft, and the whole of 
 our ftage was about feven hours and a half 
 
 Tuejday Mar.i. 
 
 We were glad to part very early this Morning from 
 our Campagnia Lodging ; the weather being yet too moyf t 
 and cold for fuch difcipline. Continuing our Journey 
 thro' Woods and Mountains, as the day before, we ar- 
 rived in about one hour at the Caphar of Cru/ia y which 
 is demanded near a Kane of that name ; a Kane they call 
 it, tho' it be in truth nothing elfe, but a cold comfortlefs 
 ruin on the top of a Hill by the way fide. 
 
 From hence in about an other hour we arrived at the 
 foot of a Mountain called Occaby ; or as the word de- 
 notes, difficult, and indeed we found it's afcent fully an- 
 fwerable to it's name. The raoyfture and flipperynefs of 
 
 the 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 7 
 
 the way at this time added to the fteepneis of it, greatly 
 encrealed our labour in afcending it. Infomuch that we 
 were a full hour in gaming the top of the Hill. Here 
 we found no more Woods, or Hills, but a fine Country, 
 well cultivated and planted with Silk Gardens: thro' 
 which leaving on the right hand a Village called Citte 
 Gatfe y inhabited folely by Maronites, we came in one hour 
 to BtUulca. Here we repaired to a place which is both 
 the Kane of the Village, and the Aga\ houfe; and re- 
 folving by reafon of the rains which fell very plentifully, 
 to make this our Lodging, we went to vilit the Aga 
 with a fmall prcfent in our hands, in order to procure 
 our felves a civil reception. But we found little recom- 
 pence from his Turkifh gratitude, for after all our reipccfc 
 to him, it was not without much importunity that we 
 obtain'd to have the ufe of a dry part of the houle. The 
 place where we were at firft Lodged lying open to the 
 Wind and the beating in of the Rain. Our whole ftage 
 this day was not much above four hours, our courie about 
 South Weft. 
 
 Being inform 'd that here were feveral Chriftjan Inha- 
 bitants in this place, we went to vifit their Church, which 
 we found fo poor and pitiful a Structure, that here Chri- 
 ftianity feem'd to be brought to it's humbleft ftate, and 
 Chnft to be laid again in a Manger. It was only a Room 
 of about four or five yards fquare, wall'd with Dirt, 
 having nothing but the uneven ground for it's pavement. 
 And for it's Ceiling only fbme rude traves laid athwart it, 
 and cover'd with Buihes to keep out the Weather. On 
 the Eaft fide was an Altar, built of the fame Materials 
 with the Walls: only it was paved at top with pot- {herds, 
 and flates, to give it the face of a Table. In the middle 
 of the Altar ftood a fmall Crofs compos'd of two Laths 
 nail'd together in the middle : on each fide of which cn- 
 fign were fattened to the Wall two or three old Prints 
 reprefenting our blefted Lord and the Bleiied Virgin, &c. 
 The Venerable prefents of fome Itinerant Fryars, that 
 had palled this way. On the South fide was a peice of 
 
 planck 
 
8 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 planck fupported by a poft, which we underftood was 
 the Reading Desk, juit by which was a little hole com- 
 modioufly broke thro' the Wall to give light to the Rea- 
 der. A very mean habitation this for the God of Hea- 
 ven ! But yet held in great efleem, and reverence by the 
 poor People ; who not only come with all devotion hi- 
 ther themlelves, but alfo depofite here whatever is molt 
 valuable to them, in order to derive upon it a bieiling. 
 When we were there the whole Room was hang'd about 
 with bags of Silkworms Eggs ; to the end that by re- 
 maining in fo holy a place, they might attract a Bene- 
 diction, and a Virtue of encreafing. 
 
 IV e cine f day Mar. 5. 
 
 The next Morning flatter 'd us with the hopes of a fair 
 day after the great Rains, which had fallen for near eight 
 hours together. We therefore ventured to leave Bellulca, 
 with no great thanks to it for our Entertainment. But 
 we had not gone far, before we began to wifh that we 
 had kept our former accommodation bad as it was, for 
 the Rains began to break out a frefh with greater fury 
 than before, nor had we more comfort under foot, the 
 Road being very deep and full of f loughs ; however we 
 refolv'd to go forward in hopes of a better time, and in 
 four hours, very long ones m fuch uncomfortable circum- 
 fiances, we arrived at Shojfatia y a poor Village fituate 
 upon a fmall River which we were obliged to pais. A 
 River we might call it now, it being fwollen fo high by 
 the late Rains, that it was impaflabie, tho' at other times 
 Jt be but a fmall Brook, and, in the Summer, perfectly 
 dry. 
 
 Here inftead of mending our condition, as we expected, 
 we began to drink more deeply of the bitter Cup of Pil- 
 grims, being broughj to fuch a ftreit, that we knew not 
 which way to turn our fclves. For (as I laid) the 
 flream was not fbrdablc, fo that there was no going for- 
 ward, and as for faceing about, and returning to the 
 place from whence we came, that was a thing, we were 
 
 very 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 9 
 
 very averfe to : well knowing by that Mornings expe- 
 rience the badnefs of the Road, and likewile having rea- 
 fon to expect, but a cold welcome at our Journeys end. 
 As for Lodging in the Village, that was a thing not to 
 be endur'd : for the Houles were all fill'd with Dirt and 
 Naftinefs, being inhabited promifcuoufly by the Villagers 
 and their Cattle. As for lying in the Campagnia, the 
 Rain was fb vehement we could not do that, without an 
 evident danger both to our Selves and Horfes. 
 
 But whilft we were at this non-plus not knowing which 
 Courfe to take, the Rain abated, and fb we reloived to 
 pitch in the open Feild, tho' thorowly foked with the 
 wet, efteeming this however the leaft evil. Accordingly 
 we betook our Selves to a fmall aicent by the water's 
 lide, intending there under our Tents to wait the failing 
 of the flream. 
 
 We had not enjoy 'd this cellation of Rain long, when 
 it began to pour down a frefh, with terrible Lightning 
 and Thunder ; and now our care was renewed, and we 
 knew not well which to be molt concern'd for ; whether 
 our Selves, who enjoyed the milerable comfort of a drop- 
 ping Tent over us, or for our Servants and Horfes which 
 had nothing but their own Cloaths to protect them. At 
 lafl there being a fmall Shecks Houfe, or Burying place, 
 hard by, we comforted our Selves with hopes that we 
 might take Sancluary there. The only difficulty was how 
 to get admiflion into fo reverene'd a place : the Turks 
 being generally men of greater Zeal than Mercy. To 
 negotiate this affair we lent a Turk ( whom we had taken 
 with us for fuch occalions ) into the Village: ordering 
 him to try firft by fair means to gain admittance, and, it 
 that fail'd, to threaten that we would enter by force. But 
 the Religion of this place was of that kind which fuper- 
 fedes lnifcead of improving Humanity. The people abfo- 
 lutely deny'd us the fmall Charity we demanded. And 
 lent us word they would die upon our Swords before they 
 would yeiid to have their Faith defil'd: adding farther 
 that it was their Faith to be true to Harriet and Aly, but 
 
 B to 
 
io A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem* 
 
 to hate and renounce Omar and Abu Beker, and that 
 this principle they were refolved to (land by. We told 
 them we had as bad an opinion of Omar and Abu Bcker 
 as they could have. That we defir'd only a little fhelter 
 from the prefent Rain, and had no intention to defile 
 their Faith. And thus with good words, we brought 
 them to confent, that we might iecure our Baggage in the 
 Shecki Houfe: but as for our Selves, and Arms, 'twas 
 our lrreverfible fentence to be excluded out of the hal- 
 low'd Walls. We were glad however to get the Merci- 
 Jefs doors open upon any terms, not doubting, but we 
 ihould be able to make our advantage of it afterwards 
 according to our delire : which we actually did ; for when 
 ic grew dark, and the Villagers were gone to fleep, we 
 all got into the places of refuge, and there palled a Me- 
 lancholy Night amonglfc the Tombs: thus eicaping how- 
 ever the greater evil of the Rain which fell all Night in 
 great abundance. 
 
 Being now crept into the infide of the Shech Houfe, 
 I muft, not omit, in requital for our Lodging, to give 
 fomc account of the nature offuch flruclures. They are 
 fione Fabricks, generally lix or eight yards fquare ( more 
 or kfs ) and roofed with a Cupola ; erected over the 
 Graves of fome eminent Shecks, that is, fuch perfbns, as 
 by their long Beards, Prayers of the fame ftandard, and 
 a kind of Pharifaical liipercilioufnefs ( which are the 
 great Virtues of the Mahometan Religion ) have pur- 
 chased to themfelves the reputation of Learning and Saints. 
 
 Of thefe Buildings there are many fcatter'd up and 
 down the Country (for you will find amongft the Turks 
 far more dead Saints than living ones. ) '1 hey are fi- 
 tuated commonly tho' not always upon the molt eminent 
 and confpicuous afecnts. To thefe Oratories the people 
 repair with their Vows and Prayers, in their feveral di- 
 flrelles, much after *the fame manner, as the Romanifts 
 do to the Ihrines of their Saints. Only in this refpect 
 the practice of" the Turks feems to be more Orthodox, in 
 regard that tho' they make their Saints ihrine the Houfe 
 
 of 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 1 1 
 
 of Prayer, yet they always make God alone and not the 
 Saint the object of their addrelles. 
 
 TburJ'day Mar. 4. 
 
 To revive us after the heavinefs of the lafl Night, we 
 had the confolation to be informed this Morning that the 
 River was fordable at a place a little farther down the 
 ftream, and upon experiment we found it true as was re- 
 ported. Glad of this difcovery, we made the beft difpatch 
 we could to get clear of this inhofpitable place ; and ac- 
 cording to our defires loon arriv'd with all our Baggage 
 on the other fide of the River. 
 
 From hence afcending gently for about half an hour, 
 we came to the foot of a very fleep Hill, which, when 
 we had reached it's top prefented us with the firfl pro- 
 fpecl of the Ocean. We had in view likewife at about 
 two hours diftance to the Weflward the City Latichea, 
 fituate on a flat fruitful ground clofe by the Sea. A City 
 firfl: Built by Sekueus Nicator, and by him calfd in ho- 
 nour to his Mother Actocf/xtt* which name it retains with 
 a very little corruption of it at this day. It was Ancient- 
 ly a place of great Magnificence, but in the general cala- 
 mity which befel this Country, it was reduced to a very 
 low condition, and fo remam'd for a long time. But 
 of late years it has been encouraged to hold up it's head 
 again, and is rebuilt, and become one of the moft fiourifh- 
 mg places upon the Coaft, being cherifhed, and put in a 
 way of Trade by Cophn Aga^ a man of great wealth, and 
 authority in thefe parts, and much addicted to Mer- 
 chandile. 
 
 From the Hill which we laft afcended, we had a fmali 
 defcent into a fpatious Plain, along which we Travelled 
 Southward, keeping the Sea on the right hand, and a 
 ridge of Mountains on the left. Having gone about one 
 hour and a half in this Plain we difcern'd on the left 
 hand, not far from the Road two ancient Tombs. They 
 were Chefls of Stone two yards and a half long each. 
 Their Cavities were cover'd over with large Tables ot 
 
 B 2. Stone *, 
 
12 A Journey from Aleppo tojerufalem. 
 
 Stone ; that had been lifted a iide probably in hopes of 
 Treafure. The Chefts were carved on the outfide with 
 Ox heads, and wreaths hanging between them, after the 
 manner of adorning Heathen Altars. They had like- 
 wife at firft Infcriptions Graven on them : but thefe were 
 fb eaten out, that one could not difcover fo much as the 
 fpecies of the Characters. Here were alfo feveral foun- 
 dations of Buildings, but whether there were ever any 
 place of note fituated hereabouts ; or what it might be I 
 cannot refblve. 
 
 Above an hour from thefe Tombs we came to another 
 Stream which ftopp'd our March again. Thefe Moun- 
 tain Rivers are ordinarily very incontiderable : but they 
 are apt to fwell upon fuddain Rains, to the deftrucf ion 
 of many a Palfenger, who will be fb hardy as to venture 
 unndvifedly over them. We took a more fuccesful care 
 at this place; for Marching about one hour higher up by 
 the fide of the Stream, we found a place, where the wa- 
 ters by dilating were become fhallower, and there we 
 got a fafe paflage to the other fide. From hence we bent 
 our Courfe to recover our former Road again, but we had 
 not gone far, before there began a very violent Storm of 
 Hail follow'd by a hard and continued Rain which forced 
 us to make the beft of our way to Jebike^ leaving our 
 Baggage to follow us at leifure. 
 
 Our whole ftage this day was about fix hours, pointing 
 for the firfl hour Weft, and for the remaining part near 
 South, having the Sea on the right hand, and a ridge of 
 Mountains at about two hours diftance on the left. And in 
 this ftate our Road continued for icveral days after without 
 any difference, lave only that the Mountains at fbme places 
 approach nearer the Sea ; at other, retire farther off. Thefe 
 Mountains go under different names in feveral places, as 
 they run along upon the Coaft, and are inhabited by rude 
 people of feveral clenominations. In that part of them above 
 Jebikey there dwell a people, called by the Turks Neceres 
 of a very ftrange and fingular Character. For 'tis their 
 principle to adhere to no certain Religion ; but Chamelion 
 
 like, 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem . 1 3 
 
 like, they put on the Colour of that Religion, whatever 
 it be, which is reflected upon them from the Perfons with 
 whom they happen to converfe. With Chriftians they 
 profefs themfelves Chnftians. With Turks they are good 
 Muflelmans. With Jews they pafs for Jews, being fuch 
 Proteufes in Religion, that no body was ever able to dif- 
 cover what fhape or ftandard their Conferences are really 
 of. All that is certain concerning them is, that they 
 make very much and good Wine, and are great Drinkers. 
 
 Friday Mar. f. 
 
 This whole day we fpent at Jebilee to recruit our 
 Selves after our late fatigues : having the convenience of 
 a new Kane to lodge in, Built at the North entrance into 
 the City, by Oftan the prefent Bafia of Tripoli. 
 
 Jebilee is feated dole by the Sea, having a vaft, and 
 very fruitful Plain flretching round about it, on it's other 
 fides. It makes a very mean figure at prefent. Tho' it 
 fhll retains the diftinaion of a City, and difcovers evi- 
 dent footfleps of a better condition in former times. It's 
 Ancient Name, from which, alfo « derives it's prefent, 
 was Gabala : under which Name it occurs in Strabo, and 
 other old Geographers. In the time of the Greek Em- 
 perours, it was dignify 'd with a Biffiops See. In which 
 ibmetimes fate Severian the Grand Adverfary and Arch- 
 Confpirator againft St. ChryJ'oJiom. 
 
 The mofl remarkable things, that appear here at this 
 day, are a Mofque, and an Alms-houle juft by it, both 
 Built by Sultan Ibrahim. In the former his Body is de- 
 pofited, and we were admitted to fee his Tomb, tho' held 
 by the Turks in great Veneration. We found it only a 
 great wooden Chefl, erected over his Grave, and cover'd 
 wiih a Carpet of painted Calico, extending on all fides 
 down to the ground. It was alfo tnck'd up with a great 
 many long Ropes of wooden Beads hanging upon it, and 
 fbmewhat refembling the furniture of a Button maker's 
 fhop. This is the Turks ufual way of adorning the 
 Tombs Qf their holy Men, as I have feen in feveral other 
 
 inftances. 
 
14 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujakm. 
 
 inflances. The long firings of Beads palling in this Conn- 
 try for marks of great devotion and gravity. In this 
 Mofque we faw feveral large Incenfe Pots, Candlef ticks 
 for Altars, and other Church furniture, being the fpoils 
 of Chriftian Churches at the taking of Cyprus. Cloie by 
 the Mofque is a very beautiful Bagnio, and a finall Grove 
 of Orange Trees; under the fhade of which Travellers 
 are wont to pitch their Tents in the Summer time. 
 
 The Turks, that were our Conductors into the Mofque 
 cntertain'd us with a long ftory of this Sultan Ibrahim 
 who lies there Interr'd : efpecially touching his mortifi- 
 cation, and renouncing the world. They reported that 
 having devef ted himfelf of his Royalty, he retir'd hither 
 and liv'd twenty years in a Grotto by the Sea fide, dedi- 
 cating himfelf wholly to poverty and devotion : and in 
 order to confirm the truth of their relation, they pre- 
 tended to carry us to the very Cell where he abode. Be- 
 ing come to the place, we found there a multitude of Se- 
 piilchers hewn into the Rocks by the Sea fide, according 
 to the Ancient manner of Burying in this Country; and 
 amongft thefe they fliew'd one, which they averr'd to be 
 the very place in which the devout Sultan exercifed his 
 twenty years difcipline ; and to add a little probability 
 to the ftory, they fhew'd at a fmall diftance, another 
 Grott twice as large as any of it's fellows, and uncover'd 
 at the top, which had three Niches or Praying places 
 hewn in it's South fide. This they would have to be 
 Sultan Ibrahim s Oratory : it being the manner of the 
 Turks always to make fuch Niches in their Mofques and 
 other places of Devotion, to denote the Southern quarter 
 of the World ; for that way the M ufielmans are obliged 
 to fet their faces when they Pray, in reverence to the 
 Tomb of their Prophet. Thefe Niches are always form'd 
 exactly refembling thofe ufually made for Statues, both 
 in their fize, fabrick, and every circumftance. I have 
 foraetimes reflected for what reafon the Turks fhould ap- 
 point fuch Marks to direct their faces toward in Prayer. 
 And if I may be allow'd to conjeclure, I believe they 
 
 did 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujalem. i f 
 
 did it at firft in teftimony of their Iconcclaftick princi- 
 ple, and to exprefs to them both the reality of the divine 
 pretence there, and at the fame time alfo it's Invifibility. 
 The relators of this ftory of Suit an Ibrahim were doubt- 
 lefs fully perfwaded of the truth of it themfelves. But 
 we could not tell what conjectures to make of it, having 
 never met with any account of fuch a Sultan, but only 
 from this rude tradition. 
 
 From thefe Mahometan San&uaries, our Guide pre- 
 tended to carry us to a Chriftian Church, about two fur- 
 longs out of Town on the South fide. When we came 
 to it, we found it nothing but a final 1 Grotto in a Rock, 
 by the Sea fhore, open on the fide towards the Sea ; and 
 having a rude pile of ftones erected in it for an Altar. 
 In our return from this poor Chappel, we met with the 
 Perfon who was the Curate of it. He told us that him- 
 felf and fome few other Chnftians of the Greek Commu- 
 nion, were wont to allemble in this humble Cell for di- 
 vine fervice, being not permitted to have any place of 
 Worfhip within the Town. 
 
 Jebike feems to have had Anciently fome convenience 
 for fhipping. There is flill to be feen a ridge compos'd 
 of huge fquare {tones running a little way into the Sea : 
 which appears to have been formerly continued farther on, 
 and to have made a Mole. Near this place we faw a 
 great many Pillars of Granite, fome by the water lide, 
 others tumbled into the water. There were others in a 
 Garden clofe by, together with Capitels of white Marble 
 finely carv'd : which teftilie in fome meafure the Ancient 
 fplendor of this City. 
 
 But the moft confiderable Antiquity in Jehlee, and 
 greateft monument of it's former Emmency, is the re- 
 mains of a Noble Theater juft at the North Gate of the 
 City. It paffes amongft the Turks for an old Caftle : 
 which (according to the Afiatick way of enlarging ) they 
 report to have been of fo prodigious a height, when in 
 it's perfect ftate, that a Horfeman might have Rid about 
 Sun-riling a full hour in the fh:tde of it. 
 
 As 
 
16 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 As for what remains of this mighty Babel it is no more 
 than twenty foot high. The fiat fide of it has been 
 blown up with Gun-powder by the Turks. And from 
 hence ( as they related ) was taken a great quantity of 
 Marble, which we faw ufcd in adorning their Bagnio 
 and Mofque before mentioned. All of it that is now 
 {landing is the Semi-Circle. It extends from corner to 
 corner jufl a hundred yards. In this Semi-Circular part 
 is a range of feventeen round Windows jufl above the 
 ground, and between the Windows all round were raifed, 
 on high Pedeflals, large Mafly Pillars, ftanding as but- 
 terelles againfl the Wall, both for the flrength and orna- 
 ment of the Fabrick ; but thefe lupporters are at prefent 
 moft of them broken down. 
 
 Within is a very large Arena, but the jufl meafure of 
 it could not be taken, by reafbn of the houfes with 
 which the Turks have almofl fill'd it up. On the Weft 
 fide the feats of the fpeftators remain f till entire, as do 
 likewife the Caves or Vaults which run under the Sub- 
 iellia all round the Theater. The outward wall is three 
 yards three quarters thick, and built of very large and 
 firm ftones ; which great flrength has preferv'd it thus 
 long from the jaws of time, and from that general ruin, 
 which the Turks bring with them into moft places where 
 they come. 
 
 Saturday Mar. 6. 
 
 Having done with JebiJee, we put forward again early 
 the next iMorning with a profpeci of much better weather 
 than we had been attended with, in our former motions. 
 Our Road continued by the Sea fide, and in about two 
 hours, brought us to a fair deep River, called by the 
 Turks Naher-il-Mdechy or the King's River. Here we 
 faw lomc heaps of rums on both tides of the River; 
 with feveral Pillars of Granite, and other footfleps of 
 fome confiderable Buildings. About half an hour far- 
 ther we palled another River call'd Jobar, fhewmg the 
 remains of a f tone- bridge oyer it, once well Built but 
 
 now 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem* 1 7 
 
 now broken down. On the other fide of this River in 
 a large plough 'd Field, ftood a great fquare Tower ; and 
 round about, the rubbifli of many other Buildings. Like- 
 wife all along this day's Journey, we obferv'd many Ruins 
 of Caftles, and Houfes, which teftifie, that this Country, 
 however it be neglected at prefent, was once in the hands 
 of a people that knew how to value it, and thought it 
 worth the defending. Strabo calls this whole Region 
 homjebike as far as Aradus, the Country of the Aradu 
 ( of whom in due place ) and gives us the names of feve- 
 ral places fituate anciently along this Coaft. As Taltus, 
 Balanea, Car anus, Eriydra, Marat bus, Xtmyra. But whe- 
 ther the Ruins which we faw this day, may be the remains 
 of any of thofe Citys cannot well be determin'd at this 
 diflance of time : feeing all we have of thofe places, is 
 only their names, without any fufficient diftinctions, by 
 which to difcover their fituation. The Balanea of Strabo 
 is indeed faid to be ftill extant, being fuppos'd to be the 
 lame place, that the Turks ( a little changing its name ) 
 call at this day Baneas. This place is four gpod hours 
 beyond Jebi/ee. It ftands upon a fmall declivity about a 
 furlong diftant from the Sea, and has a fine clear ftream 
 running fwiftly by it on the South fide. It is at prefent 
 uninhabited, but it's fituation proves it to have been an- 
 ciently a pleafant, it's Ruins, a well-built, and it's Bay 
 before it, an advantageous Habitation. At this place was 
 requir'd another Caphar. 
 
 Leaving Baneas, we went on by the Sea fide, and in 
 about a quarter of an hour pafled by an old Caflle, on the 
 top of a very high Mountain. It is Built in the figure 
 of an Equilateral Triangle, having one of it's Angles point- 
 ing towards the Sea. The Turks call it Merchab ; and 
 enlarge much upon the Sieges it has fuflain'd in former 
 times ; but whatever force it may have had anciently ; it 
 is at prefent only a refidence for poor Country people. 
 
 At about one hour and a half diftance from Baneas, we 
 came to a fmall clear flream, which induced us to take up 
 our Lodging near it. We pitch'd in the Carapagnia about 
 
 C two 
 
1 8 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 two or three furlongs up from the Sea ; having in fight 
 on the Mountains above us, a Village called Sophia, in- 
 habited iblely by Maronites : and a little farther Bejack y 
 another Village polles'd by Turks only: and a little far- 
 ther Merakiah, whole inhabitants are a Mifcellany of Chri- 
 ftians and Turks together. Our whole (lage this day was 
 about fix hours. 
 
 Sunday Mar. 7. 
 
 From this Quarter we removed early the next Morning, 
 and in three hours came to a fair deep River called Nahor 
 HuJJine : having an old Bridge turn'd over it, confiding 
 of only one Arch, but that very large and exceeding well 
 wrought. In one hour and a half more Travelling flill 
 by the Sea fide, we reach'd Tortofa. 
 
 The ancient name of this place was Orthofia. It was 
 a Bifhops See in the Province of Tyre. The Writers of 
 the holy Wars make frequent mention of it, as a place of 
 great ftrength. And one may venture to believe them, 
 from what appears of it at this day. 
 
 It's fituation is on the Sea-fhore : having a fpatious 
 Plain extending round about it on it's other lides. What 
 remains of it is the Caitle, which is very large and ftill 
 inhabited. On one fide, it is wafh'd bty the Sea. On the 
 other's it is fortified by a double Wall, of courfe Marble 
 Built after the Rultick manner. Between the two Walls 
 is a Ditch ; as likewife is another encompafling the outer- 
 mofl Wall. You enter this fbrtrels on the North fide, 
 over an old draw-bridge : which lands you in a fpatious 
 Room now for the moll part uncover'd, but anciently 
 well Arched over, being the Church belonging to the Ca- 
 ttle. On one fide it relembles a Church and in witnefs of 
 it's being fuch, fhews at this day, feveral holy Emblems 
 rarv'd upon it's Walls, as that of a Dove defending, over 
 the place where flood the Altar; and in another place that 
 of the Holy- Lamb. But on the fide which fronts out- 
 ward, it has the face of a Caftle being Built with port- 
 holes for Artillery, inftead of Windows. Round the Caftle 
 
 on 
 
A Journey from Aleppo tojerufalem. 1 9 
 
 on the South and Eafl fides ftood anciently the City. It 
 had a good Wall and Ditch encompalling it, of which 
 there are {till to be feen confiderable remains. But for 
 other Buildings, there is nothing now left in it, except a 
 Church : which ftands about a furlong Eafhvard from the 
 Caflle. It is one hundred and thirty foot in length, in 
 breadth ninety three, and inheighth fixty one. It's Walls, 
 and Arches, and Pillars, are of a Baftard Marble, and all 
 ftill lb entire, that a fmall expence would fuffice to reco- 
 ver it into the Hate of a beautiful Church again. But, to 
 the grief of any Chriftian beholder, it is now made a ftall 
 for Cattle, and we were when we went to fee it, almolt 
 up to our knees in Dirt, and Mire. 
 
 From Tortofa we fent our baggage before us, with or- 
 ders to advance a few Miles farther toward Tripoli, to 
 the intent that we might fhorten our ftage to that place 
 the next day. We follow 'd not long after, and in about 
 a quarter of an hour came to a River or rather a Channel 
 of a River, for it was now almoft dry : tho' queitionlcfs 
 here muff have been anciently no inconfiderable ftream ; 
 as we might infer both from the largenefs of the Channel, 
 and the fragments of a (tone bridge, formerly laid over it. 
 
 In about half an hour more, we came a Brefl with a 
 fmall Ifland, about a League diitant from the Shore, called 
 by the Turks Ru-ad. This is fuppofed to be the ancient 
 Arvady Arphad, or Arpad { under which feveral names 
 it occurs, 2 Kin. 19. 13. Gen. 10. 18. Ezek. 27. 11. &c.) 
 and the Aradus of the Greeks, and Romans. It feemed 
 to the Eye to be not above two or three furlongs long; 
 and was wholly filled up with tall Buildings like Caflles. 
 The ancient Inhabitants of this Ifland were famous for 
 Navigation, and had a command upon the Continent as 
 far as Gabala. 
 
 About a quarter of an hour farther we came up with 
 our Muliteers ; they having pitched our Tents, before 
 they had gone fo far as we intended. But this milcarnage 
 they well recompenfed, by the condition of the place 
 where they ftopp'd ; it affording us the entertainment of 
 
 C 2 feveral 
 
20 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalm. 
 feveral notable Antiquities ; which we might otherwife 
 perhaps have pafs'd by unobferv'd. It was at a green plat 
 lying within one hour of Tortofa, a little Southward of 
 AraduS) and about a quarter of a mile from the Sea, having 
 in it a good Fountain ( tho' of a bad name ) called the 
 Serpent Fountain. 
 
 The firft Antiquity that we here obferved was a lame 
 Dike thirty yards over at top, cut into the firm Rock. 
 It's fides went Hoping down with flairs formed out of the 
 natural Rock : defcending gradually from the top to the 
 bottom. This Dike flr£tch'd in a direcf line, Eafl and 
 Weft more than a furlong, bearing ftill the fame figure 
 of flairs, running in right lines all a long it's fides. It 
 broke off at lafl at a flat marfhy ground, extending about 
 two furlongs betwixt it and the Sea. It is hard to imagine 
 that the water ever ftow'd up thus high ; and harder, with- 
 out fuppofing that, to refolve, for what reafon all this 
 pains of cutting the Rock in fuch a fafhion, was taken. 
 
 This Dike was on the North fide of the Serpent Foun- 
 tain: and juft on the other fide of it, we efpy'd another 
 Antiquity, which took up our next obfervation. There 
 was a Court of fifty five yards fquare, cut in the natural 
 Rock ; the fides of the Rock Handing round it, about 
 three yards high fupplyed the place of Walls. On three 
 fides it was thus encompalled ; but to the Northward it 
 lay open. In the Center of this Area was a fquare part 
 of the Rock left Handing; being three yards high and five 
 yards and a half fquare. This ferv'd for a Pedeflal to a 
 Throne erected upon it. The Throne was compos'd of 
 four large flones, two at the fides, one at the back, ano- 
 ther hanging over all at top, in the manner of a Canopy. 
 The whole flruclure was about twenty foot high, front- 
 ing toward that lide where the Court was open. The flone 
 that made the Canopy was five yards and three quarters 
 fquare, and caiVd round with a hanfome Cornilh. What 
 all this might be defigned for, we could not imagine; un- 
 lefs perhaps, the Court may pais for an Idol-Temple, and 
 the Pile in the middle for the Throne of the Idol: which 
 
 feems 
 

 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. z i 
 feems the more probable, in regard that Hercules i. e. the 
 Sun, the great abomination of the Phenicians, was wont 
 to be adored in an open Temple. At the two innermoft 
 Angles of the Court, and likewife on the open (ide were 
 left Pillars of the natural Rock ; three at each of the for- 
 mer and two at the latter. 
 
 About half a mile to the Southward of the forefaid An- 
 tiquitys there flood in veiw two Towers. But it grow- 
 ing dark, we were forced to defer our examination of 
 them till the next Morning. Our whole ftage this day ex- 
 ceeded not fix hours. 
 
 Monday Mar. 8. 
 
 Having pafled over a reftlefs night, in a marfhy and 
 unwholfbme ground, we got up very early ; in order to 
 take a nearer veiw of the two Towers laft mention'd. We 
 found them to be Sepulchral Monuments, erected over 
 two ancient Burying places. They ftood at about ten 
 yards diftance from each other, and their fhape and fabrick 
 is reprefented in the figures (a) and (b). 
 
 The Tower (a) was thirty three foot high. Its longeft 
 ftone or Pedeftal was ten foot high, and fifteen fquare : 
 the fuperftru6hire upon which was firft a tall ftone in 
 form of a Cylinder ; and then another ftone cut in fhape 
 of a Pyramid. 
 
 The other Tower (b) was thirty foot and two inches 
 high. It's Pedeftal was in heighth fix foot; and fixteen 
 fbotfix inches fquare. It was fupported by four Lyons 
 carv'd one at each corner of the Pedeftal. The carving 
 had been very rude at beft; but was now rendred by time 
 much worfe. The upper part rear'd upon the Pedeftal 
 was all one fingle ftone in fafhion as is reprefented in the 
 figure (b). 
 
 Each of thefe barbarous Monuments had under it feVe- 
 ral Sepulchers: the entrances into which were on the 
 South fide. It coft us fome time and pains to get into 
 them : the Avenues being obftru&ed, firft with Briars, and 
 Weeds, and then with Dirt. But however we remov'd 
 
 both 
 
22 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 both thefe obftacles : encourageing our (elves with the 
 hopes, or rather making our ielves merry with the fancy 
 of hidden treafure. But affbon as we were enter'd into 
 the Vaults, we found that our golden Imaginations ended 
 ( as all worldly hopes and projects do at lait ) in dull, and 
 putrefaction. But however that we might not go away 
 without fome reward for our pains, we took as exadt a 
 furvey as we could of thefe Chambers of dark nets ; which 
 were difpos'd in fuch manner as is exprefs'd in the fol- 
 lowing figures. 
 
 The Chambers under the Tower (a) lay as is repre- 
 fented in the firlt figure. Going down feven or eight fteps, 
 you come to the mouth of the Sepulcher ; where crawling 
 jn you arrive in the Chamber (i) which is nine foot two 
 inches broad and eleven foot long. Turning to the right 
 hand, and going thro' a narrow paflage, you come to the 
 Room (2) which is eight foot broad and ten long : in this 
 Chamber are feven Cells for Corpfes, viz* two over againft 
 the entrance, four on the left hand and one unfinifhed on 
 the right. Thefe Cells were hewn directly into the firm 
 Rock. We meafured feveral of them, and found them 
 eight foot and a half in length, and three foot three inches 
 fquare. I would not infer from hence that the Corpfes 
 depofited here, were of fuch a Gigantick fize, as to fill up 
 fuch large Coffins : tho' at the fame time, why fhould any 
 men be To prodigal of their labour, as to cut thefe Caverns 
 into fo hard a Rock as this was, much farther than necef- 
 fity requir'd ? 
 
 On the other fide of the Chamber (1) was a narrow 
 paflage feven foot long leading into the Room (3) whole 
 dimenfions were nine foot in breadth and twelve in length. 
 It had eleven Cells of fome what a lefs fize than the for- 
 mer lying at equal diftances all round about it. 
 
 ParTing out of the Room (1) fbreright you have two 
 narrow entrances ; each feven foot long into the Room (4). 
 This apartment was nine foot fquare : it had no Cells in 
 it like the others. Nor any thing elfe remarkable, but 
 only a bench, cut all along it's iide on the left hand. 
 
 From 
 
~J- 
 
 J _J~ L 
 
 i 2. 
 
 IT 
 
 n 
 
 — i 
 
 c 
 
 4 
 
 5- 
 
 i. 
 
 J 
 
 8. 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 

A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 2 3 
 
 From the defcription of this Sepulcher it is eafy to con- 
 ceive the difpofiuon of the other ; which is reprefented 
 in the figure (f. 6). The height of the Rooms in both, 
 was about fix foot ; and the Towers were Built each over 
 the innermoft Room of the Sepulchers, to which it be- 
 longed. 
 
 At about the diftance of a furlong from this place, we 
 difcern'd another Tower, refembling this laft defcnbed. 
 It was eredted likewife over a Sepulcher, of which you 
 have the delineation in the figure (7) and (8). There was 
 this Angularity obfervable in this laft Sepulcher ; that it's 
 Cells were cut into the Rock eighteen foot in length, pof- 
 fibly to the intent, that two or three Corpfes might be de- 
 pofited in each of them, at the feet of one another. But 
 having a long ftage this day to Tripoli, we thought it not 
 feafonable to fpend any more time in this place ; which 
 might perhaps have afforded us feveral other Antiquitys. 
 
 And yet for all our haft, we had not gone a mile, be- 
 fore our Curiofity was again arrefted by the obfervation 
 of another Tower, which appear 'd in a thicket not far 
 from the way fide. It was thirty three foot and a half 
 high, and thirty one foot fquare: compos'd of huge fquare 
 Stones, and adorn'd with a hanfbrae Cornifh all round at 
 top. It contain'd only two Rooms one above the other. 
 Into both which there were entrances on the North fide 
 thro' two fquare holes in the Wall. The feperation be- 
 tween both Rooms, as alfo the covering at the top, was 
 made, not of Arch'd-work, but of vaft flat Stones; in 
 thicknefs four foot, and fo great an extent, that two of 
 them in each place, fufficed to fpread over the whole Fa- 
 brick. This was a very ancient ftru&ure, and probably 
 a place of Sepulture. 
 
 I muft not forget that round about the Serpent Foun- 
 tain, and alfo as far as this laft Tower, we faw many Se- 
 pulchers, old foundations and other remains of Antiquity. 
 From all which it may be afluredly concluded, that here 
 muft needs have been fbme famous Habitation in ancient 
 times : but whether this might be the Xim/ra, laid down 
 
 by 
 
24 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufaletn. 
 
 by Strabo hereabouts ( or as Tliny calls it Lib. 5. Nat. 
 jkift. Cap. 20. Simyra) the fame poffibly which the 
 Country of the Zemarites, mention'd in conjunction with 
 the Arvadites, Gen. 10. 18. I leave to others to difcuis. 
 
 Having quitted our felves of thefe Antiquitys, we en- 
 ter'd into a fpatious Plain, extending to a vafl: breadth, 
 between the Sea and the Mountains \ and in length reach- 
 ing almoft: as far as Tripoli. The people of the Country 
 call hjunia, that is, the Plain, which name they give it 
 by way of Eminency, upon account of it's vail extent. 
 "We were full feven hours in pafling it ; and found it all 
 along exceeding fruitful, by reafon of the many Rivers 
 and the great plenty of Water, which it enjoys. Of thefe 
 Rivers the firil is about lix hours before you come to Tri- 
 poli. It has a Stone-bridge over it, of three large Arches ; 
 and is the biggeft Stream in the whole Plain. For which 
 reafon it goes by the name of Nahor ilKibber, or the great 
 River. About half an hour farther you come to another 
 River, called Nahor Abrc/Jj, or the Leper's River. In 
 three quarters of an hour more you pafs a third River, 
 called Nahor Acchar ; having a hanfome Stone-bridge, of 
 one very large Arch, laid over it. Two good hours more 
 
 brings you to a fourth River, called or the cold 
 
 Waters, with a Bridge of three Arches over it. From 
 hence you have two good hours more to Tripoli. I took 
 the more exadt account of all thefe Streams to the intent 
 that I might give fome light, for the better deciding that 
 difference, which is found in Geographers about the place 
 of the River Eleutherus. The Moderns, all with one 
 confent, give that name, to a River between Tyre and 
 Sidon ; called by the Turks Ca/imeer. But this contra- 
 dicts the univerial teftimony of the Ancients, who place 
 Eleutherus more Northward. Strabo will have it fbme- 
 where between Ortho/ia and Tripoli, as a boundary di- 
 viding Syria from "'Phoenicia ( p. yi8. ) Tliny places it near 
 Ortho/ia, emptying it felf into the Sea over againfl Aradus. 
 Nat. Hijl. Lib. j. C 20. The writer of the Maccabees 
 \ Mace. 12. 25*, 30. lays it in the Land of Hamath, which 
 : Country 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 2 $ 
 
 Country whatever it were, was certainly without the bor- 
 ders oi ffrae!) as appears from the fame Author. To this 
 Jofephus agrees, placeing Ekutherus to the North ot'Si- 
 don, as may be collected from him, Lib. 14. Antiq. Jud, 
 Cap. +\. 8. where, fpeaking ot Mark Anthonys donation to 
 Cleopatra, he reports, how that extravagant Gallant gave 
 her all the Citys between Ekutherus and Ep'pt, except 
 Tyre and Sidon. 'Ptolemy as cited by Terranius, places it 
 yet more Northerly, between Orthojia and Bahnea. From 
 all which it is evident, that tins cannot be the true An- 
 cient Eleutherus which the moderns aflign lor it. But 
 that name is rather to be afcribed to one of thefe Rivers, 
 eroding the Plain of Junta: or elfe ( if Pliny's Authority 
 may be rely'd upon ) to that River ( now dry ) which I 
 mentioned a little on this iide of Tortoja, and which has 
 it's mouth almoft oppofite to Aradus. But I will not 
 determine any thing in this point, contenting my feif to 
 have given an account of the feveral Rivers as we pafs'd 
 them. 
 
 Tuejday Mar. p. 
 
 Drawing towards Tripoli^ our Muliteers were affraid 
 to advance, leaft their Beafts might be prefs'd for publick 
 fervice; as they were afterwards, in fpight of all their cau- 
 tion, to our great vexation. So we left them in the Plain 
 of Junta, and proceeded our {elves for Tripoli : where 
 we arriv'd about Sun fet. Our whole ftage this day was 
 ten hours. 
 
 At Tripoli we repos'd a full week, being very gene- 
 roufly entertain'd by Mr. Francis Haftings the Conilil, 
 and lAx.Jobn Ft/her Merchant, theirs being the only En- 
 glifli Houle in Tripoli. 
 
 Tripoli is feated about half an hour from the Sea. The 
 major part of the City lies between two Hills : one on the 
 Eaft, on which is a Caftle commanding the place ; another 
 on the Weft between the City and the Sea. This latter is 
 faid to have been at firfl rais'd and to be ftill encreas'd by 
 the dayly acceffion of Sand, blown to it from the Shore : 
 
 D upon 
 
z6 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 
 upon which occafion there goes a Prophecy, that the whole 
 City (hall in time be Buried with this Sandy Hill. But the 
 Turks Teem not very apprchenfive of this prediction ; for 
 inltead of preventing the growth of the Hill, they fuffer it 
 to take it's Courfe, and make it a place of pleafure, which 
 they would have little inclination to do, did they appre- 
 hend it were lbmetime to be their Grave. 
 
 Wednefday Mar. 10. 
 
 This day we were all treated by Mr. Fifier in the Cam- 
 pagnia. The place where we dined was a narrow pleafant 
 Vally by a Rivers fide, dift ant from the City about a mile 
 Eaftward. A-crofs the Vally there runs from Hill to Hill, 
 a hanfbme lofty Aqueduct, carrying upon it fo large a 
 body of Water, as fuffices the whole City. It was called 
 the Trine es-bridge fuppos'd to have been Built by Godfrey 
 of Bulloign. 
 
 Tburjday Mar. 1 1. 
 
 This day we all dined at Conful Hafting% Houfe, and 
 after dinner went to wait upon OJian the Bafia ok'Tripofz. 
 having rirfl lent our prefent as the manner is amongit the 
 Turks, to procure a propitious reception. 
 
 It is counted uncivil to vilit in this Country without 
 an offering in hand. All great men expect it as a kind of 
 Tribute due to their Character and Authority, and look 
 upon themfelves as affronted, and indeed defrauded when 
 this compliment is omitted. Even in familiar vifits amongit 
 inferiour people, you fhall feldome have them come with- 
 out bunging a flower, or an Orange, or fbme other fuch 
 xoken of their refpect to the perlon vifited : the Turks 
 in this point keeping up the Ancient Oriental Cuftome 
 hinted. iSam.g.n. If we go (fays Saul) what Jhali we 
 bring the man of God} there is not a prefent &c. which 
 words are queftionlefs to be underftood in conformity to 
 this Ealtern Cuftome, as relating to a token of RefpecT:, 
 and not to a price of Divination,. 
 
 Friday 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 2 7 
 
 Friday Mar. 12. 
 In the Afternoon we went to vifit Bell-Mount a Con- 
 vent of Greeks, about two hours to the Southward of 
 Tripoli. It was founded by one of the Earls of Tripoli, 
 and Hands upon a very high Rocky Mountain .looking 
 over the Sea ; a place of very difficult afcent, tho' made 
 as acceflible as it was capable, by the labour of the poor 
 Monks. It was our fortune to arrive there jufl as they 
 were going to their Evening Service. Their Chappel is 
 large but obfcure ; and the Altar is inclos'd with Cancelli 
 ib as not to be approach'd by any one but the Prieff, ac- 
 cording to the fafhion of the Greek Churches : they call 
 their Congregation together, by beating a kind of a tune 
 with two Mallets on a long pendulous piece of planck at 
 the Church door; Bells being an abomination to the 
 Turks. 
 
 Their fervice confided in precipitate, and very irreve- 
 rent chattering of certain Prayers and hymns to our ble£ 
 fed Saviour, and to the blefled Virgin : and in fome dark 
 Ceremonies, the Prieft that officiated fpent at leaft one 
 third part of his time in compaflPing the Altar, and per- 
 fuming it with a pot oflncenfe, and then going all round 
 the Congregation flinging his Incenfe-pot backward, and 
 forward, and tendring it's fmoake with three repeated Vi- 
 brations to every perfon prefent. Towards the end of 
 the Service, there was brought into the body of the Church, 
 a fmall Table, cover'd with a fair Linnen Cloath, on, 
 which were plac'd five fmall Cakes of Bread crofs way in 
 this form ®<sg , and in the Center of each Cake was fix'd 
 a fmall lighted wax taper, a hole in the Cake ferving for 
 a Socket. 
 
 At this Ceremony the Prieft read the Gofpel concerning 
 our Lord's feeding the Multitude with five Loaves. After 
 which the Bread was carried into the Cancelli, and be- 
 ing there fuddainly broke to bits, was again brought ouc 
 in a Basket, and prefented to every one in the Allembly, 
 that 4ie might take a little. After this Collation, the 
 
 D 2 Prieft 
 
±% A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 Prieft pronounc'd the Bleffing and fo the Service ended. 
 On both tides of the body of the Church were feats for 
 the Monks, in the nature of the flails for the Fellows of 
 Colleges in Oxford; and on each hand of every feat were 
 placed crutches. Thefe you find in like manner in molt 
 Churches of this Country. Their ufe is for the Prieft to 
 lean upon : the Service being fometimes fo long, that they 
 cannot well flay it out without the affiftance of fucheafe- 
 ments ; for they are not permitted by their Rubnck to fit 
 down. The younger Monks, who perhaps may have no 
 great occafion for thefe fupporters, do yet delight to ufe 
 them, ( as the Spaniards do fpedtacles ) not for any necef- 
 fity, but in affectation of gravity. 
 
 The Monks of this Convent were as I remember forty 
 in all. We found them feemingly a very good natur'd, 
 and induftrious, but certainly, a very ignorant people. 
 For I found upon enquiry they could not give any man- 
 ner of Rationale of their own divine Service. And to fhew 
 their extream fimplicity ; I cannot omit a complement, 
 made to the Conful by the chief of them. viz. that he was 
 as glad to fee him, as if he had beheld the Meffiah himfelf 
 coming in perfon to make a vifit to him. 
 
 Nor is this ignorance to be much wondred at ; for what 
 Intervals of time, they have between their hours of De- 
 votion, they are forced to fpend, not in Study, but in 
 menaging of their Flocks, cultivating their Land, prune- 
 ing their Vineyards, and other labours of Husbandry, 
 which they accomplifh with their own hands. This toyl 
 they are obliged to undergo not only to provide for their 
 own fuftenance, but alfo that they may be able to fatisrie 
 the unreafonableexadtions, which the greedy Turks, upon 
 every pretence they can invent, are ready to impofe upon 
 them. But that it may be the better guefs'd what fort of 
 men thefe Greek Monks are, I will add this farther indi- 
 cation, viz. that the fame perfon, whom we faw officiating 
 at the Altar, in his embroyder'd facerdotal Robe, broughc 
 us the next day, on his own back, a Kid, and a Goat's 
 skin of Wine, as a prefent from the Convent. 
 
 Saturday 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm . a 9 
 
 Saturday Mar. 13. 
 
 This Morning we went again to wait upon OJlan BaJJa 
 by his own appointment ; and were entertained as before 
 with great Courtefy. For you muft know that the Turks 
 are not fo ignorant of Civility, and the Arts of endear- 
 ment, but that they can practice them with as much 
 exadlnefs, as any other Nation, whenever they have a 
 mind to fhew themfelves obliging. For the better appre- 
 hending of which, it may not be improper, nor unplea- 
 fant here, to defcribe the Ceremonies of a Turkiih vifit, 
 as far as they have ever fallen under my obfervation, either 
 upon this or any other occafions. 
 
 When you would make a vifit to a Perfbn of Quality 
 here, you muft fend one before with a Prefent to befpeak 
 your admiffion, and to know at what hour your coming 
 may be mod feafbnable. Being come to the Houfe, the 
 Servants receive you at the outermofl Gate, and conduct 
 you toward their Lord or Mailer's Appartment : other 
 Servants ( I fuppofe of better rank ) meeting you in the 
 way, at their feveral ftations, as you draw nearer to the 
 Perfon you vifit. Coming into his Room, you find him 
 prepar'd to receive you, either Handing at the edge of the 
 Duan, or elfc lying down, at one corner of it, according 
 as he thinks it proper to maintain a greater or lefs diftin- 
 dion. Thefe Duans are a fort of low ftages, feated in 
 the pleafanteft part of the Room, elevated about fixteen 
 or eighteen inches or more, above the floar. They are 
 fpread with Carpets, and furnifiied all round with Bolfters 
 for leaning upon. Upon thefe the Turks eat, deep, fmoake, 
 receive viiits, fay their prayers &c. Their whole delight 
 is in lolling upon them, and in furnilhing them richly out 
 is their greateft luxury. 
 
 Being come to the fide of the Duan, you flip off your 
 fhooes, and ftepping up take your place, which you muft 
 do firft at fbme diflance, and upon your knees, laying 
 your hands very formally before you. Thus you muft 
 remain, till the Man of Quality invites you to draw nearer, 
 
 and 
 
30 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 and to put your felf in an eafier pofture, leaning upon the 
 Bolder. Being thus h'x'd, he difcourfes with you as the 
 occafion otters : the Servants ftanding round all the while 
 in a great Number, and with the profbundeft refpecl;, fi- 
 lence, and order imaginable. When you have talk'd over 
 your buiinefs, or the complements, or whatever other con- 
 cern brought you thither, he makes a fign to have things 
 ferv'd in for the entertainment, which is generally a little 
 Sweetmeat, a difh of Sherbet, and another of Coffee: all 
 which are immediatly brought in by the Servants, and 
 tender'd to all the Guefls in order, with the greateft care, 
 and awfulnefs imaginable. And they have reafon to look 
 well to it, for fhould any Servant make but the leafl flip 
 or miftake, either in delivering or receiving his difh, it 
 might coft him fifty, perhaps one hundred drubs, on his 
 bare feet to atone for his crime. At laft comes the fi min- 
 ing part of your Entertainment ; which is perfuming the 
 Beards of the Company; a Ceremony, which is perfbrm'd 
 in this manner. They have for this purpofe a lmall Sil- 
 ver Chaffing-difh, cover'd with a lid full of holes, and 
 fixed upon a hanfbme plate. In this they put fome frelh 
 Coals, and upon them a piece of Lignum Aloes, and then 
 fhutting it up, the fmoake immediatly afcends with a grate- 
 ful Odour thro' the holes of the cover. This imoake is 
 held under every one's chin, and offer'd as it were a facri- 
 fice to his beard. The briftly Idol foon perceives the re- 
 verence done to it, and fb greedily takes in and incorpo- 
 rates the gummy fleam, that it retains the favour of it and 
 may ferve for a nofegay a good while after. 
 
 This ceremony may perhaps feem ridiculous at firfl 
 hearing: but it pafles amongfi the Turks for an high gra- 
 tification. And I will fay this in it's vindication, that it's 
 defign is very wife, and ufeful. For it is underftood to 
 give a civil difmiflion to the vifitants, intimating to them, 
 that the Mafter of the Houfe has buiinefs to do, or fome 
 other avocation, that permits them to go away aflbon as 
 they pleafe, and the fooner after this ceremony the better. 
 By this means you may, at any time, without offence de- 
 liver 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 3 1 
 
 liver your ihK from being detain'd from your affairs by 
 tedious and unfeafonable vifits, and from being conftrain'd 
 to ufe that piece of'Hypocnfy, fo common in the world, 
 of preffing thofe to (by longer with you, whom perhaps 
 in your heart you wifh a great way off for having troubled 
 you fo long already. But of this enough. 
 
 Having difcharged our vifit to OftanBaffa we Rid out 
 after dinner to view the Marine. It is about half an hour 
 diftant from the City. The Port is an open Sea, rather 
 than an enclos'd Harbour, however it is in part defended 
 from the force of the waves by two final I Iflands about 
 two leagues out from the fhore. One of which is call'd 
 the Bird) the other the Coney lfland 7 bzmg io named from 
 the creatures which they ieverally produce. For it's fe- 
 curity from Pyrates, it has feveral Caflles or rather fquarc 
 Towers, Built all along upon the fhore at convenient di- 
 ftances. They are ( I think ) fix in number, but at pre- 
 sent void of all manner of force both of Men and Am- 
 munition. 
 
 In the Fields near the fhore appear'd many heaps of 
 Ruins and Pillars of Granite, and feveral other Indications 
 that here mull have been Anciently fome confiderable 
 Buildings this way. Which agrees very well with what 
 Cajaubon in his Notes upon Strabo (p. 213.) quotes out 
 of 'Diodorus. viz. that the place call'd Tripoli ', was An- 
 ciently a clufter of three Citys fhnding at a furlong's di- 
 flance from each other ; of which the nrfl was a Seat of 
 the Aadii, the fecond of the Sidonians, the third of the 
 Tyrians ; and from hence it is probable, that Tripoli was 
 a name given at firft to three diftincl, but adjacent places, 
 and not to one City; Built (as is ufually laid) oy the 
 mingled intereffc of Tyre> Sidon, and Aradm ; it being 
 hard to conceive, how three fuch independent Common- 
 wealths fliould thus concur in the Founding of one City 
 between them, and harder, how they fliould agree in go- 
 verning it afterwards. 
 
 Sunday Mar. 14, 
 
 We continued ftill in Tripoli 
 
 Monday 
 
32 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakrru 
 
 Monday Mar. i$. 
 
 Refolving to profecute our Journey this day, we had 
 given orders to our Muliteers fome time before, to be 
 ready to attend us. But they had been To frighted by the 
 Bafia of Sidoris fervants, who were abroad in quell of 
 Mules, for the fervice of their Mailer, that they were run 
 away, and could not be heard of A difappointment 
 which gave us much vexation, and left us no other re- 
 medy, but only to fupply our felves with frefh Beads, 
 where we could find them. 
 
 Having- after much trouble, put our felves in a new 
 poflure of Travelling, we parted from Tripoli at three of 
 the Clock in the Afternoon: proceeding clofe by the Sea, 
 we came in one hour and a half to CaUemone y a jfmall 
 Village juft under BeU-Mount. From hence putting for- 
 ward till near eight of the Clock, we came to an high 
 Promontory, which lay directly crofs our way, and broke 
 off abruptly at the Sea fide, with a Cape very high, and 
 almofl perpendicular. In order to pals this Barrier, we 
 turn'd up on the left hand, into a narrow Vally thro' 
 which our Road lay; and it being now late, we took up 
 our Quarters there under fome Ohve Trees, having come 
 in all about five hours. 
 
 The Promontory which terminated our Journey feems 
 to be that called by * Strabo to t ©*« 4t^awnr t or the face 
 of God, aflign'd by that Author for the end of Mount Li- 
 barms. Between this place and Tripoli he mentions like- 
 wife a City called Trieris : but of this we faw no foot- 
 fleps , unlels you will allow for fuch , fome Sepulchers 
 which we law cut in the Rocks, about one hour and a 
 half before we arrived at the Promontory. 
 
 Tuefday dMar. 16. 
 
 We were no fooner in motion this Morning but we 
 
 were engaged in the difficult work of eroding over the 
 
 foremention'd Cape. The pals over it lies about a mile up 
 
 * Strtb, lib. 16. Ptfnp.MiU lib, x. cap- »». 
 
 : \ from 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 3 3 
 
 from the Sea. We found it very fleep and rugged, but 
 in an hour or thereabout matter 'd it, and arriv'd 111 a nar- 
 row Vally on the other fide, which brought the Sea open 
 to us again. Near the entrance of this Vally ftands a 
 imall Fort, eredled upon a Rock perpendicular on all fides, 
 the Walls of the Buildings being juffc adequate to the fides 
 of the Rock, and feeming almoffc of one continued piece 
 with them. This Caftle is called TemfeMa, and commands 
 the paflage into the Vally. 
 
 In about half an hour from this place, we came even 
 with Tatrone : a place efteem'd to be the Ancient Botrus. 
 It is lituate clofe by the Sea, and our Road lying fome- 
 what higher up in the Land, we diverted a little out of 
 the way to lee it. We found in it fome remains of an old 
 Church and a Monaftery, but thefe are now perfectly 
 ruin'd and defolate; as is likewife the whole City. Nor 
 is there any thing left in it, to teftifie it has been a place 
 of any great confederation. 
 
 In three hours more we came to Gibyk, cali'd by the 
 Greeks Byblus, a place once famous for the Birth and Tem- 
 ple ofAtonis. It is pleafantly iituated by the Sea fide. 
 At prefent it contains but a little extent of ground, but 
 yet more than enough for the fmall number of it's Inhabi- 
 tants. It is compalled with a dry Ditch, and a Wall, with 
 fquare Towers in it at about every forty yards diflance. 
 On it's South fide it has an old Caftle, within it is a Church, 
 exadlly of the fame figure with that at TortoJ'a, only not 
 i'o entire as that. Betides this it has nothing remarkable; 
 tho' Anciently it was a place of no mean extent, as well 
 as beauty, as may appear from the many heaps of Ruins, 
 and the fine Pillars that are fcatter'd up and down in the 
 Gardens near the Town. 
 
 Gibyk is probably the Country of the Giblites, men- 
 ixondjofl). i7. 5-. King Hiram made ufe of the people of 
 this place iri preparing Materials for Solomon's Temple, as 
 may be collected from the firft of Kings j. 18. where the 
 word which our Tranflator hath rcndcfdjlone-huarers 
 m the Hebrew is CD ,,, ?3; Gb/im, or Giblites, and in the 
 
 E LXXII 
 
34 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 LXXII Interpreters bJ6a<o/, that is the men of Byblus : 
 the former uiing the Hebrew^ the latter the Greek name 
 of this place. The lame difference may be obferved like- 
 wife Ezek.i^. 9. where this place is again mention'd. The 
 Ancients of Gabal fays our Tranflation, following the He- 
 brew : inftead of which you read in the LXXII again « 
 <afis£\mes l BsA/W the Elders of Bybli or Byblus. 
 
 Leaving Gibyle we came in one hour to a fair large 
 River, with a {tone Bridge over it, of only one Arch, but 
 that exceeding wide and lofty. To this River the Turks 
 give the name of Ibrahim Bajfa ; but it is doubtlefs the 
 Ancient River Adonis, lb famous for the Idolatrous rites 
 perfbrm'd here in lamentation of Adonis. Upon the bank 
 of this ftream we took up our quarters for the following 
 night, having come this day about fix hours. We had a 
 very tempefluous night both of wind, and rain, almofl 
 without ceflation, and with fo great violence, that our 
 Servants were hardly able to keep up our Tents over 
 us. But however this accident, which gave us fo much 
 trouble in the night, made us amends with a curiofity, 
 which it yielded us an opportunity of beholding the next 
 morning. 
 
 iVednefday Mar. 17. 
 
 For by this means we had the fortune to fee what may 
 be fuppofed to be the occalion of that opinion which 
 Lucian relates, concerning this River, viz. That this 
 ftream, at certain feafbns of the year, efpecially about the 
 feafts of Adonis , is of a bloody colour: which the Hea- 
 thens looked upon as proceeding from a kind of Sympathy 
 in the River for the Death of Adonis, who was killed by 
 a wild Boar in the Mountains, out of which this ftream 
 rifes. Something like this we faw actually come to pafs ; 
 for the water was ftain'd to a furpriling rednefs; and as 
 we obferv'd in Travelling had difcolourd the Sea, a great 
 way into a reddifh hue : occafion'd doubtlefs by a fort of 
 Minium, or red Earth, wafhed into the River by the vio- 
 lence of the rain, and not by any ftain from Adorns $ blood. 
 
 In 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalern. 3 y 
 
 In an hour and a quarter from this River we palled over 
 the foot of the Mountain Climax^ where, having gone 
 thro' a very rugged and uneven pais, we came into a large 
 Bay called Junta. At the firft entrance into the Bay is an 
 old flone Bridge, which appoints the limits between the 
 two BaHalicks of Tripoli and Sidon. At the bottom of" the 
 Bay are exceeding high, and fleep Mountains, between 
 which and the Sea, the Road lies. Thefe are the Moun- 
 tains otCq/iravav, chiefly inhabited by Maronites, famous 
 for a growth of excellent Wine. The Maronite Bifhop of" 
 Aleppo has here his relidence in a Convent, of which he 
 is the Guardian. We faw many other fmall Convents on 
 the top of thefe Mountains. One of which call'd Oozier 
 was as we were here told in the hands of ten or twelve 
 Latin Fryars. Towards the further fide of the Bay, we 
 came to a fquare Tower, or Cattle, of which kind there 
 are many all along upon the Coalt for feveral days Jour- 
 ney, from this place : they are laid to have been built by 
 the Emprefs Helena, for the protection of the Country 
 from Tirates. At this Tower is to be paid a fourth *Ca- 
 phar. It is receiv'^ by Maronites, a pack of Rogues more 
 exadling and infblent m their office, than the very Turks 
 themfelves. A little beyond this place, we came to a 
 Road cut thro' the Rocks, which brought us out of the 
 Bay, having been one hour and a quarter in compaliing it. 
 In an hour more fpent upon a very rugged way, clofe by 
 the Sea, we came to the River L/cus, call'd in the time of 
 the Romans Canis, and by the Turks at this day Nahov 
 Kelp. It derives it's name from an Idol in the form of a 
 Dog or Wolf, which was worfliiped, and is faid to have 
 pronoune'd Oracles at this place. The Image is pretended 
 to be fhewn to Grangers at this day, lying in the Sea with 
 it's heels upward, I mean the body of it, for it's Oracular 
 head is reported to have been broken off, and carry 'd to 
 Pernce, where ( if fame be true ) it may be feen at this 
 day. 
 I know not by what miflake feveral modern Geographers 
 
 * Half per Frandc, quarier fer Servant. 
 
 E 2 confound 
 
3 6 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujakm. 
 
 confound this River with Adonis, making them to be one 
 and the fame, whereas the contrary is apparent, both from 
 experimental obfervauon, and from the Authority of An- 
 cient Geographers. 
 
 This River iflues into the Sea from between two Moun- 
 tains exceffive fteep and high ; and lb rocky that they 
 feem to confift each of one entire ftone. For croffing the 
 River, you go up between thefe Mountains about a bow 
 fhot from the Sea, where you have a good Bridge of four 
 Arches, near the foot of which is a piece of white Marble 
 inlaid in the fide of a Rock, with an Arab Infcription on 
 it, intimating it's Founder to have been the Emir Faccar- 
 dine ( of whom I fhall have occafion to fpeak more when 
 1 come to Beroot.) Being paffed the River you immediatly 
 begin to alcend the Mountain, or rather great Rock on 
 the other fide. To accommodate the paffage you have a 
 path of above two yards breadth cut along it's fide, at a 
 great height above the water ; being the work of the Em- 
 perour Antoninus. For the Promontory allowing no paf- 
 lage between it, and the Sea at bottom, that Emperonr 
 undertook with incredible labour, to open this way above. 
 The memory of which good work is perpetuated by an 
 Infcription engraven on a Table plain'd in the fide of the 
 natural Rock, not far from the firit entrance into the way. 
 As follows. 
 
 imp: caes: m: aurelius 
 
 antoninus, pius, felix, augustus 
 
 parth: max: brit: germ: maximus 
 
 pontifex maximus 
 
 montibus imminentibus 
 
 lyco flumini caesis viam dilatavit 
 
 PER (purpofely erajed) 
 
 ANTON INIANAM SUAM 
 
 A little higher up in the way are infcrib'd thefe words 
 invjcte imp: antonine p: FELIX auc: 
 
 MULTIS ANNIS IMPERA.' 
 
 In 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 37 
 
 In patting this way, we obferv'd, in the fides of the Rock 
 above us, feveral Tables of figures ciHfv'd ; which leem'tf 
 to promife fbniethiflg of Antiquity. To be fatisfied of 
 which lome of us clamber'd up to the place, and found 
 there fome figns as if the old way had gone in that region, 
 before Antoninus cut the other more convenient pallage a 
 little lower. In feveral places hereabouts, we faw (trance 
 antique figures of men carv'd in the natural Rock, in Mezzo 
 relievo, and in bignefs equal to the 
 life. Clofe by each figure was a large 
 Table plain'd in the fide of the Rock, 
 and border'd round with Mouldings. 
 Both the Effigies and the Tables ap- 
 pear'd to have been anciently infcrib'd 
 all over : but the characters are now 
 fb defaced that nothing but the foot- 
 Heps of them were vifible. Only 
 there was one of the figures that had 
 both it's lineaments and it's infcrip- 
 tions entire. 
 
 It was our unhappinefs to have at this place a very vio- 
 lent ftorm of Thunder, and Rain, which made our Com- 
 pany too much in haft to make any long flay here. By 
 which misfortune I was prevented, to my great regret: 
 from copying the Infcription, and makeing fuch an exacl; 
 icrutiny into this Antiquity as it feem'd very well to de- 
 ferve. I hope fome curious Traveller or other will have 
 better fuccefs in palling this way hereafter. The Figures 
 feem'd to refemble Mummys, and were perhaps the repre- 
 fentation of fome perfbns buried hereabout ; whole Sepui- 
 chers might probably alfo be difcover'd by the diligent Ob- 
 ierver. 
 
 The Antonine way extends about a quarter of an hours 
 Travel. It is at prefent fo broken, and uneven, that, to 
 repair it, would require no lefs labour, than that, where- 
 with it was at firft made. After this pafs you come upon 
 a fmooth fandy fhore, which brings you in about one 
 hour and a half to the River JBkroot, ( for I could learn no 
 
 other 
 
38 A Journey from Aleppo to J 'erufakm. 
 
 other name it had ) it is a large River, and has over it a 
 itone Bridge of iix Arches. On it's other fide is a plain 
 Field, near the Sea, which is laid to be the Stage on which 
 St. George duell'd andkill'd the Dragon. In memory of 
 this Achievement, there is a (mail Chappel built upon the 
 place, dedicated at firft to that Chnflian Hero ; but now 
 perverted to a Mofque. From hence in an hour we arrived 
 at Beroot, very wet by reafon of the long and fevere Rain. 
 However we found here the fhelter of a good Kane by 
 the Sea fide, and there we took up our Quarters. Our 
 whole ftage this day was about fix hours and a half. 
 
 Thurfday Mar. 18. 
 
 The day following we fpent at Beroot : being credibly 
 inform'd that the River 2>amer, which lay in our next 
 ftage, was fo fwoln by the late rains that it would be im- 
 pallable. This place had Anciently the name of Berytus ; 
 and afterwards being greatly eiteem'd by Auguflus, had 
 many priviledges confer'd upon it, and together with them 
 a new name, viz. Julia Felix> but at prefent, it retains 
 nothing of it's Ancient felicity, except the fituation ; and 
 an that perticular it is indeed very happy. It is feated on 
 the Sea fide, in a foil fertile and delightful, rais'd only 
 ib high above the fait water, as to be fecure from it's over- 
 flowings, and all other noxious and unwholfome erfe&s 
 of that Element. It has the benefit of good frefli fprings 
 flowing down to it from the adjacent Hills, and difpenkd 
 all over the City, in convenient, and not unhandfome 
 Fountains. But befides thefe advantages of it's lituation, 
 it has at prefent nothing elfe to boaft of 
 
 The Emir Faccardine had his chief refidence in this 
 place. He was, in the Reign of Sultan Morat> the fourth 
 Emir or Prince of the Z>rufes ; a people fuppos'd to have 
 descended, from fome difpers'd remainders of thofe Chn- 
 flian Armies, that engaged in the Crufades, for the reco- 
 very of the Holy- Land', who afterwards, being totally 
 routed, and defpairing of a return to their native Country 
 again, betook themfeives to the Mountains hereabout: in 
 
 which 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 39 
 which their defcendants have continued ever iince. Fac- 
 tor dine being (as I faid ) Prince of thefe people, was not 
 contented to be penn'd up in the Mountains, but by his 
 power and artifice, enlarged his Dominions down into the 
 Plain all along the Sea Coaft, as far as from this place to 
 Acra. At lalt the Grand Signior growing jealous of fuch 
 a growing power, drove the wild Beaft back again, to the 
 Mountains, from whence he had broke loofe ; and there 
 his poflerity retain their Principality to this day. 
 
 We went to view the Palace of this Prince, which 
 Hands on the North Eaft part of the City. At the entrance 
 of it is a Marble Fountain, of greater beauty than is ufiial- 
 ly feen in Turky. The Palace within conlilts of feveral 
 Courts, all now run much to nun ; or rather perhaps 
 never finifhed. The Stables, Yards for Horfes, Dens for 
 Lyons, and other Salvage Creatures, Gardens, &c. are fuch 
 as would be not unworthy of the Quality of a Prince in 
 Chriitendom were they wrought up, to that perfection of 
 which they are capable, and to which they leem to have 
 been defign'd by their firft contriver- 
 
 But the belt light that this Palace affords, and the wor- 
 thieft to be remember'd, is the Orange Garden. It contains 
 a large Quadrangular plat of ground, divided into (ixteen 
 lelfer fquares, four in a row, with walks between them. 
 The walks are (haded with Orange Trees, of a large fpread- 
 ing iize, and all of fb fine a growth both for item and 
 head, that one cannot imagine any thing more perfect in 
 this kind. They were, at the time when wc were there, 
 as it were,guilded with Fruit, hanging thicker upon them 
 than ever I faw Apples in England. Every one of thefe 
 lixteen lefler fquares in the Garden was border'd with done, 
 and in the ftone work were troughs very Artificially con- 
 triv'd, for conveying the water all over the Garden. There 
 being little outlets, cut at every Tree, for the ltream as it 
 pafs'd by, to flow out, and water it. Were this place un- 
 der the Cultivation of an Englifh Gardner, it is impoflible 
 any thing could be made more delightful. But thefe Hefpe- 
 ndes were put to no better ufe, when we faw them, than 
 
 to 
 
4© A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufatcm. 
 
 to ferve as a fold for Sheep and Goats, infomuch that in 
 many places they were up to the knees in dirt. So little 
 ienfe have the Turks, of fuch refin'd delights as thefe ; 
 being a people generally of the grolleft apprehenlion, and 
 knowing few other pleafu res, but Inch fenfualitys, as are 
 equally common both to Men and Beads. On the Eaft (ide 
 of this Garden were two terrace walks riling one above the 
 other, each of them having an aicent to it of twelve fteps. 
 They had both feveral line fpreading Orange Trees upon 
 them to make fliades in proper places. And at the North 
 end they led into booths, and fummer-houfes, and other 
 apartments, very delightful: this place being delign'd by 
 Face jt dine lor the chief feat of his pleafure. 
 
 It may perhaps be wondcr'd, how this Emir fhould be 
 able to contrive any thing lb elegant and regular as this 
 Garden ; feeing the Turkiih Gardens are ufually nothing 
 tlfe but a confus'd mifcellany of Trees, jumbled together 
 without either knots, walks, arbours, or any thing of art 
 or defign, fo that they feem like thickets rather than Gar- 
 dens. But Faccardine had been in Italy, where he had 
 ieen things of another nature, and knew well how to copy 
 them in his own Country. For indeed it appears by thele 
 remains of him, that he muft needs have been a man much 
 above the ordinary level of a Turkifh Genius. 
 
 In another Garden we law feveral Pedeltals for Statues, 
 from whence it may be mferr'd, that this Emir was no 
 very zealous Mahometan. At one Corner of the fame Gar- 
 den Hood a Tower of about fixty foot high; defign'd to 
 have been carryed to a much greater elevation for a watch 
 Tower, and for that end built with an extraordinary 
 ftrength, it's walls being twelve foot thick. From this 
 Tower we had a view of the whole City. Amongft other 
 Profpe£ts it yielded us the light of a large Chriitian Church, 
 faid to have been at firit conlecrated to St. John the Flvan- 
 gelift. But it being now ufurp'd by the Turks for their 
 duer" Mofque, we could not be permitted to fee it, other- 
 wife then at this diltance. Another Church there is in 
 the Town which feems to be Ancient, but being a very 
 
 * mean 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. '41 
 mean Fabrick is fuffer'd to remain (till in the hands of the 
 Greeks. We found it adorn'd with abundance of old 
 Pi6lures. Amongifc the reft I faw one with this little In- 
 icription, Kacy7w <az$™ h^i*™™*™* B»p«r* : and jufti, by it 
 was the figure of Neftorius^ who commonly makes one 
 amongft the Saints painted in the Greek Churches of thole 
 of his Sedt. But that which appear'd molt obfervable was 
 a very odd figure of a Saint, drawn at iiiil length, with a 
 large Beard reaching down to his feet. The Curate gave 
 us to underftand that this was St. Nicephorus ; and per- 
 ceiving that his Beard was the chief object of our admi- 
 ration, he gratified us with the following relation concern- 
 ing him. viz. That he was a perfbn of the molt Eminent 
 Virtues in his time. But his great Misfortune was that the 
 Endowments of his mind, were not let off with the out- 
 ward Ornament of a Beard. Upon occalion of which de- 
 fect he fell into a deep Melancholy. The Divel taking 
 the advantage of this Prieff, promifed to give him that 
 boon which nature had deny'd, in cafe he would comply 
 with his fuggeftions. The Beardlefs Saint, tho' he was 
 very defirous of the reward propos'd, yet he would not 
 purchafe it at that rate neither. But rejected the previous 
 bribe with indignation, declaring refblutly that he had 
 rather for ever difgair of his wifh then obtain it upon fuch 
 terms. And at the fame time, taking in his hand the downy 
 tuft upon his Chin, to witnefs the liability of his refolu- 
 tion ( for he had it feems Beard enough to fwear by) Be- 
 hold ! as a reward for his confhncy, he found the hair 
 immediatly ftretch, with the pluck that he gave it, where- 
 upon finding it in {o good a humour, he follow'd the hap- 
 py omen ; and as young heirs that have been niggardly 
 bred generally turn prodigals when they come to their 
 Efiates, fo he never defilted from pulling his Beard, till 
 he had wiredrawn it down to his feet. But enough both 
 of the Beard and the Story. At the Eall end of Beroot are 
 to be feen, feven or eight beautiful Pillars of Granite each 
 
 foot long and three in diameter. And over another 
 
 Gate; not far diltant, we found in a piece of Marble;, thi; 
 
 F folloiwing 
 
42 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 following Inicription. tUs- tk ts&tnovTQ? avfylf Iwoiai tu<* 
 
 cutyhs iteyx®'' " €)&wtye ytivi-nu J>'<T« <nrej$u/Mit o crape j£«? » pi 
 JWk ^a^t >x? to tw?$v jtiviTVt ^AHfHf ^ae<f. T H 2 TOT 
 nPOSIONTOS A NAP OS ennoias. Such as 
 thefe were the Capitals. 
 
 On the South fide the Town- wall is ftill entire, but 
 built out of the ruins of the old City, as appears by pieces 
 of Pillars, and Marble, which help to build it. In one 
 piece of Marble Table we faw thefe remaining letters of 
 a Latin Infcription. 
 
 VG. ETIA 
 
 XI CUM 
 
 » - V S T'HOF. RUS---.- 
 
 All the reft being purpofely erafed. 
 
 A little without this Wall, we law many Granite Pillars 
 and remnants of Mofaic floors, and in an heap of rubbifh 
 feveral pieces of polifh'd Marble, fragments of Statues, and 
 other poor Relicks of this City's Ancient Magnificence. On 
 the Sea fide is an old ruin'd Caftle, and fome remains of 
 a fmali Mole. 
 
 Friday Mar. i$. 
 Leaving Beroot we came in one third of an hour to a 
 large Plain extending from the Sea to the Mountains. At 
 the beginning of the Plain is a Grove of Pine Trees of 
 Faccardines Plantation. We guefs'd it to be more then 
 half a mile crofs, and fo pleaiant, and inviting was it's 
 fhade, that it was not without fome regret that we pafs'd 
 it by. Continuing in this Plain we law at a diftance, on 
 our left hand, a fmall Village called Suck/bat. It belongs 
 to the Drufes, who poffefs at this day a long tract of Moun- 
 tains, as far as from Cafiravan to Carmel. Their prefent 
 Prince is Achmet, Grandfon to Faccardme ; an old Man, 
 and one who keeps up the Cuitome of his Anccttours, of 
 turning day into night : an hereditary practice in his fa- 
 mily, proceeding from a traditional periwafion amongfl 
 them, that Princes can never fleep fecurely but by day, 
 
 when 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 4 j 
 when men's aitions and defigns are belt obferv'd by their 
 Guards, and if need be, molt eafily prevented ; but that in 
 the night it concerns them to be always vigilant, leait the 
 darknefs, aided by their fleeping, (hould give Traitors, 
 both opportunity and encouragement to aflault their per- 
 rons, and by a Dagger or a Piitol, to make them continue 
 their fleep longer than they intended when they lay down. 
 
 Two hours from Faccardnes Grove brought us to the 
 fifth Caphar, and another little hour to the River Earner 
 or Tamyras : the former being it's Modern, the latter it's 
 Ancient Name. It is a River apt to fwell much upon fud- 
 dain Rains, in which cafe precipitating it's felf from the 
 Mountains with great rapidity, it has been fatal to many 
 a paflenger ; amongft the reft, one Monfieur Spon Nephew 
 to" Dr. Spon, coming from Jerufakm about four years ago 
 in company with fome Englifh Gentlemen, was in patting 
 this ftream hurry 'd down by it, and perifhed in the Sea, 
 which lies about a furlong lower than the parage. 
 
 We had the good fortune to find the River in a better 
 temper ; it's waters being now atlwaged iince the late Rains. 
 However the Country fellows were ready here, according 
 to their trade, to have affifted us in our pafling over. In 
 order to which they had very officioiifly ftripp'd themfelves 
 naked againft our coming, and to the end that they might 
 oblige us to make ufe of their help, for which they will 
 be well paid ; they brought us to a place where the water 
 was deepeft, pretending there was no other paliage befides 
 that ; which cheat we faw them actually impofe upon 
 fome' other Travellors, who came not long after us. But 
 we had been advis'd of a place a little higher in the Ri- 
 ver where the ftream was broader, and fhallower, and 
 there we eafily pafs'd without their afiiftance. Jul* by 
 this place are the ruins of a ltone-bridge, of which one 
 might guefs, by the firmnefs of it's remains, that it might 
 have been Kill entire, had not thefe Villains broke it down 
 in order to their making their advantages of paflengers ; 
 either conducting them over for a good pay, or elfe, if they 
 have opportunity, drowning them for their fpoils. 
 
 < r 
 
44 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 On the other fide of the River the Mountains approach 
 clofer to the Sea, leaving only a narrow Rocky way be- 
 tween. From "Darner in two hours we came to another 
 River, of no inconfiderable figure, but not once mentioned 
 by any Geographer that I know off It is within one hour 
 of Sidon. It's channel is deep, contains a good itream, and 
 has a large Hone- bridge over it. Speaking of this River 
 to the Reverend Father Stephano, Maronite Patriach at 
 Canobine, he told me it was call'd Awk, and had it's Foun- 
 tain near Barook, a Village in Mount Ubanus. 
 
 At this River we were met by feveral of the French 
 Merchants from Sidon : they having a Factory there the 
 mod confiderable of all theirs in the Levant. Being ar- 
 rived at Sidon, we pitch'd our Tents by a Cittern without 
 the City, but were our felves condudted, by the French 
 Gentlemen to the place of their Habitation, which is a 
 large Kane, clofe by the Sea, where the Conful and all 
 the Nation are quarter'd together. Before the front of 
 this Kane is an old Mole running into the Sea with a right 
 Angle, it was of no great capacity at bell, but now is ren- 
 der'd perfectly ufelels, having been purpofely fill'd up with 
 rubbifh, and earth, by Faccardine, to prevent the Turkifh 
 Gallies from making their unwelcome vifits to this place. 
 The Mole being thus deftroy'd, all Ships, that take in 
 their Burthen here, are forced to ride at Anchor under 
 the fhelter of a fmall ridge of Rocks, about a mile diftant 
 from the fhore on the North fids of the City. Sidon is 
 ftockt well enough with Inhabitants, but is very much 
 fhrunk from it's Ancient extent, and more from it's fplen- 
 dour. As appears from a great many beautiful Pillars, that 
 lie fcatter'd up and down the Gardens without the prefent 
 Walls. Whatever Antiquities may at any time, have been 
 hereabout, they are now all perfectly obfcur'd, and buried 
 by the Turkifh buildings. Upon the South fide of the 
 City on a Hill Hands an old Caltle faid to have been the 
 work of Lewis the ninth of France, furnamed the Saint, 
 and not far from the Caltle is an old unfiniih'd Palace of 
 Faccardine\ fcrving however [the Jfrffa for his Seraglio : 
 , . neither 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem . 4 $• 
 
 neither of them worth mentioning, had the City afforded 
 ns any thing elfe more remarkable. Near about Si don be- 
 gin the precincts of the Holy-Land, and of that part of 
 it in particular which was allotted to After. The bor- 
 ders of which Tribe extended from Carmel 'as far as great 
 Zidon, as appears from Jojh. 1 9. 26, 28. But the people 
 upon the Sea Coafts were never actually mafter'd by the 
 IJiaelites: being left by the juft judgment of God to be 
 thorns in their fides, for a reafbn that may be feen JW. 2. 
 1,2, 3, &c. 
 
 The perfbn, who is the French Conful at Sidoti, has 
 alfo the Title of Conful ot Jerujalem, and is obliged by 
 his Matter, the French King, to make a vifit to the Holy 
 City every Eailer, under pretence of preferving the San- 
 ctuary there from the violations, and the Fryars, who have 
 the cuftody of it from the exactions of the Turks. But 
 the Fryars think themfelves much fafer without this pro- 
 tection. We were defirous to joyn with Monfieur I Em- 
 pereur, the prefent Conful, in his this years Pilgrimage, 
 and accordingly had fent him a letter from Aleppo on pur- 
 pofe to befpeak that favour, hoping by his protection to 
 pafs more fecurely from the abufes of the Arabs and 
 Turks, who are no where fo iniblent, as in Tale/line 9 and 
 about Jerujalem. We had his promife to ftay for us, but 
 the reraora's and difappointments we met with in the Road, 
 had put us fb backward in our Journey, that fearing to be 
 too late at Jerufalem he fet out from Sidon the day be- 
 fore our arrival there : leaving us however fbme hopes 
 that if we made the belt of our way, we might come up 
 with him at Acra y where he promis'd to expect our coming 
 to the utmoft moment. 
 
 Saturday Mar. 20. 
 Being defirous therefore not to loofe the convenience 
 of his company, we fet out early the next morning from 
 Sidon, and Travelling in a very fruitful Plain, came, in 
 half an hour to a place where we found a large Pillar of 
 Cranite, lying crofs the high way, and funk a good part 
 
 under 
 
46 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujalem. 
 
 under ground. Obferving fome letters upon it, we took 
 the pains to dig away the Earth, by which means we reco- 
 ver'd this fragment of an Infcription. 
 
 IMPERATORES, 
 
 CAESARES, 
 
 L SEPTIMUS SE- 
 
 VERUS, PIUS PER- 
 
 T I N A X, AUG: A R A- 
 
 BICUS ADIABENICUS, 
 
 PARTHICUS, MAXI- 
 
 MUS, TRIBUNICIA 
 
 potes: vi. imp: xi. cos Q 
 
 PRO £ cos £? P & P 
 ET M A? AUREL: ANTONI- 
 NUS AUG: FILIUS & EJUS 
 
 ---ET -----ARIA 
 
 . .- E I> 01 VM jf KV 
 
 FVM-- 
 
 . _ - - - -ic PR: PRAET 
 
 PROVINC ^ SYRIAE 
 
 [ET PHAE] NIC & RENOVAVERVNT 
 
 * <t 
 
 Some Gentlemen of our Nation, in their Journey to Jeru- 
 Jakm, this laft Eafter, An. 1699. found another Pillar, at 
 about midway, between that we faw and Stdon of the fame 
 make and ufe : from which they took the forefaid In- 
 fcription, more perfectly. As far as filius ejus there is no 
 variation, and after that it goes on thus 
 
 VIAS ET MILLIARIA 
 
 FR o & VENIDIUM RV 
 
 FVM 0> LEG & AVGG tf 
 
 L PR tf PRAESIDEM 
 
 PROVINC 6> SYRIAEPHOE 
 NIC & RENOVAVERVNT 
 
 a? 1 &* 
 
 By 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 47 
 
 By which we may obferve the exa&nefs of the Romans in 
 meafuring out their Roads, and marking down upon every 
 Pillar the number of Miles as I. II. III. &c. 
 
 A little beyond this Pillar, we palled in fight of Ko-ri-e, 
 a large Village on the fide of the Mountains, and in two 
 hours and a half more came to Sarphan, fuppos'd to be the 
 Ancient Sarephath> or Sarepta, fo famous for the refidence, 
 and miracles of the Prophet Elijah. The place fhewn us 
 for this City confifted of only a few Houies, on the tops 
 of the Mountains, within about half a mile of the Sea. But 
 it is more probable the principal part of the City flood be- 
 low, in the fpace between the Hills and the Sea : there 
 being ruins ftill to be feen, in that place of a confiderable 
 extent. From hence in three hours we arrived at Cajimeer, 
 a River large and deep, running down to the Sea thro' a 
 Plain, in which it creeps along with various inlanders, and 
 turnings. It had once a good ftone-Bridge laid over it of 
 four Arches: but of that nothing remains at prefent, ex- 
 cept the fupporters : between which there are laid beams, 
 and boards, to fiipply the room of the Arches and to make 
 a paflage over. But fo carelefs and loofe is the Fabrick, 
 that it looks like a trap rather than a Bridge. We had 
 one Horfe dropt thro', notwithftanding our utmoft care to 
 prevent fuch misfortunes. But 'twas our good luck to re- 
 cover him again fafe a fhore. 
 
 This River is aflign'd by our Modern Geographers for 
 the old EkutheYus, but how erronioufly has been afbre- 
 mentiond Strabo mentions a certain River falling into the 
 Sea near Tyre, on this fide ( <tso< TJpa UoTity^ l^im. p. j 21.) 
 which can be no other than this ; but he omits to acquaint 
 us with it's name. Within a Bow Ihot of the River Caji- 
 meer is a Kane of the fame name, from which keeping near 
 the Sea fide, you arrive in an hour at Tyre. 
 
 This City, {landing in the Sea upon a Peninfula, pro- 
 mifes at a dif lance fomething very magnificent. But when 
 you come to it you find no fimilitude of that glory, for 
 which it was fo renown'd in Ancient times, and which 
 the Prophet Ezeh^d defcribes Cap. 26, 27. 28. On the 
 
 North 
 
48 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem, 
 
 North fide it has an old Turkifh ungarrifon'd Cattle ; be- 
 fides which you fee nothing here, but a mere Babel, of 
 broken Walls, Pillars, Vaults, &c. there being not fo much, 
 as one entire Houfe left. It's prefent Inhabitants are only 
 a few poor wretches, harbouring themfelves in the Vaults, 
 and fubliiting chiefly upon fifhmg, who feem to be pre- 
 ferved, in this place, by divine providence, as a vifible 
 argument, how God has f ulfiiicl his word concerning Tyre, 
 viz. That Hfiould be as the top of a Rock, a place for fijhers 
 to dry their nets on, Ezek. 16. 14. 
 
 In the midfl of the ruins, there Hands up one pile higher 
 than the reft, which is the Eafl end of a great Church, 
 probably of the Cathedral of Tyre : this having been an 
 Archiepifcopal See in the Chriltians times. 
 
 I cannot, in this place, omit an obfervation, made by 
 mod of our company in this Journey, viz. That in all 
 the ruins of Churches which we faw, tho' their other parts 
 were totally demolilh'd ; yet the Ealt end we always found 
 ftandmg, and tolerably entire. Whether the Chriltians 
 when over run by Infidels, redeem'd their Altars from ruin 
 with money, or whether, even the Barbarians, when they 
 demolifhed the other parts of the Churches, might volun- 
 tarily fpare thefe, out of an awe and veneration; or whe- 
 ther they have flood thus long, by virtue of fome pecu- 
 liar firmnefs in the nature of their Fabrick, or whether 
 fbme occult providence has preferv'd them, as fo many 
 ftandmg Monuments of Chrillianity in thefe unbelieving 
 regions, and prefages of it's future reftauration, I will not 
 determine. This only I will fay, that we found it in fact, 
 ib as I defcrib'd, in all the ruin'd Churches that came in 
 our way, being perhaps not fewer than one hundred : nor 
 do I remember ever to have feen one inflance of the con- 
 trary. This might juftly feem a trifling obfervation, were 
 it founded upon a few examples only. But it being a thing 
 fo often, and indeed univerfally oblerv'd by us, throughout 
 our whole Journey, I thought it mult needs proceed from 
 fomething more then blind chance, and might very well 
 deferve this Animadversion. 
 
 : But 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 49 
 
 Bat to return from this digrellion, there being an old 
 (lair-cafe in this ruin lad mention'd, I got up to the top 
 of it : from whence I had an entire profpect, of the If land 
 part of Tyre, of the Ifthmus, and of the adjacent fliore. 
 I thought 1 could, from this elevation, difcern the Ifthmus 
 to be of a different nature from the other two: it lying 
 lower than either, and being cover'd all over with land, 
 which the Sea calls upon it, as the tokens of it's natural 
 right to a pailage there, from which it was by Alexander 
 the great injurioufly excluded. The liland of Tyre in it's 
 natural fhte leems to have been of a circular figure, con- 
 taining not more then forty Acres of Ground. It difco- 
 vers ftill the foundations of a Wall, which Anciently en- 
 compafs'd it round, at the utmofl margmeof the Land. It 
 makes with the Kthmus two large Bays, one on it's North 
 tide, the other on it's South. Thele Bays are in part, de- 
 fended from the Ocean, each by a long ridge, reiembling 
 a Mole : ftretching directly out, on both iides, from the 
 head of the Ifland; but thefe ridges whether they were 
 Walls or Rocks, whether the work of Art or Nature, I 
 was too far diftant to difcern. 
 
 Coming out of thele ruins, we law the Foundation of 
 a very ftrong Wall, running crols the Neck of Land, and 
 iervmg as a barrier, to fee u re the City on this lide. From 
 this place, we were one third of an hour, in palling the 
 landy Ifthmus, before we came to the ground, which we 
 apprehended to be the natural fliore. From hence palling 
 over part of a very fertile Plain, which extends it f elf to 
 a vaft compafs before Tyre, we arrived in three quarters 
 of an hour at Rojelayn. Our whole flage from Sidon hi- 
 ther was about eight hours. 
 
 Sunday Mar. 11. 
 Rojelayn is the place where are the Cif terns called Sclo- 
 monSy iuppofed, according to the common tradition here- 
 abouts, to have been made by that great King, as part of 
 his recompence to King Hiram> for the fupphes of mate- 
 rials, fent by him toward the building of the Temple. 
 
 G They 
 
jo A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 They are doubtlefs very Ancient, but yet of a much later 
 date, then what this tradition afcribes to them. That they 
 could not be built till (nice Alexanders time, may be con- 
 je&ur'd from this, amonglt odier arguments; becaufe the 
 aqueduct, which conveys ths water from hence to Tyre, 
 is carried over the Neck of Land, by which Alexander in 
 his famous Siege of this place joyn'd the City to the Con- 
 tinent. And as the Citterns cannot well be imagin'd to 
 be Ancienter then the aqueduct., lo one may be lure the 
 aqueduct cannot be older than the ground it Hands upon. 
 Of thefe Cilterns there are three entire at this day, one 
 about a furlong and a half diftant from the Sea, the other 
 two a little farther up. 
 
 The former is of an Octagonal figure twenty two yards 
 in diameter. It is elevated above the ground nine yards on 
 the South fide, and fix on the North ; and within is laid 
 to be of an unfathonable deepnels, but ten yards of line 
 confuted that opinion It's Wall is of no better a mate- 
 rial than gravel, and fmali pebles, but confolidated with 
 fb itrong, and tenacious a cement, that it feems to be all 
 one entire Vellel of Rock. Upon the brink of it you 
 have a walk round, eight foot broad. From which de- 
 fending, by one ftep on the South fide and by two on the 
 North, you have another walk twenty one foot broad. 
 All this ftru&ure, tho' fo broad at top, is yet made hol- 
 low : lo that the water comes in underneath the walks : 
 infomuch that I could not with a long rod, reach the ex- 
 tremity of the cavity. The whole Vcifel contains a vafl 
 body of excellent water; and is fo wellfupply'd from it's 
 Fountain, that tho' there lflues from it a ftream like a 
 Brook, driving four Mills between this place, and the Sea, 
 yet it is always brim full. On the Eall fide of this Ciftern 
 was the Ancient outlet of the water, by an aqueduct railed 
 about fix yards from the ground, and containing a chan- 
 nel one yard wide. But this is now ftop'd up, and dry. 
 The Turks having broke an outlet on the other fide, de- 
 riving thence a fiream for grinding their Coin. 
 
 The aqueduct now dry is carried Eaftward about one 
 
 * hundred 
 
A Journey from Alepfo tojerufafem. yr 
 
 hundred and twenty paces, and then approaches the two 
 other Citterns of which one is twelve the other twentv 
 yards fquare. Thefe have each a little channel, by which 
 they Anciently render'd their waters into the aqueduct, 
 and Co the united dreams of all the three Citterns were 
 carryed together to Tyre. You may trace out the aqueduct 
 all along by the remaining fragments of it. It goes about 
 one hour Northward, and then turning to the Welt, at a 
 final] Mount where Anciently flood a Fort, but now a 
 Mofquc, it proceeds over the Iflhmus, into the City. As 
 we pais'd by the aqueduct, we obierv'd in feveral places 
 on it's fides, and under it's Arches, rugged heaps of matter, 
 refembling Rocks. Thefe were produced by the leakage 
 of the water, which petrify 'd as ltdiflil'd from above, and 
 by the continual adherence of new matter, were grown to 
 a large bulk- That which was moft remarkable in them, 
 was the frame, and configuration of their parts. They 
 were compos'd of innumerable tubes of (tone, of different 
 fizes, cleaving to one another like icicles. Each tube had 
 a fmall cavity m it's center, from which it's parts were pro- 
 jected in form of rays, to the circumference, after the man- 
 ner of the (tones vulgarly call'd Thunder-ftones. 
 
 The Fountain of thele waters, is as unknown as the 
 contriver of them. It is certain from their rifing fo high, 
 they mult be brought from foinc part of the Mountains, 
 which are about a league diftant; and 'tis as certain that 
 the work was well done at firft, feeing it performs it's of- 
 fice io well, at io great a diftance of time. 
 
 Leaving this pleafant Quarter, we came in an hour 
 and a haif to the white promontory, fb called from the 
 afpe£t it yields toward the Sea. Over this you pais by a 
 way of about two yards broad, cut along it's tide; from 
 which, the proipect down is very dreadful, by reafbn of 
 the extream depth and fteepnefs of the Mountain, and the 
 raging of the waves at bottom. This way is about one 
 third of an hour over, and is faid to have been the work 
 oi Alexander the great. About one third of an hour far- 
 ther, you pals by an heap of rubbiih clofe by the Sea fide, 
 
 G 2 being 
 
j 2 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 being the ruins of the Cattle Scandalium talking it's name 
 from it's Founder, the fame Alexander, whom the Turks 
 cail Scander. The ruin is one hundred and twenty paces 
 fquare, having a dry ditch encompafling it, and from un- 
 der it, on the fide next the Sea, there lfliies out a Foun- 
 tain of very fur water. In an hour from hence you come 
 to the fixth Caphar, called Naehsra. And in an other 
 hour to the plain of Acra, over a very deep and rugged 
 Mountain, fuppofed to be part of 'Mount- Savon. All the 
 way from the white promontory to this plain is exceeding 
 Rocky ; but here the pleafantneis of the Road makes you 
 amends for the former labour. 
 
 The Plain of Acra extends it felfin length from Mount - 
 Bar on as far as Carmel, which is ac lealfc fix good hours, 
 and in breadth, between the Sea and the Mountains, it is 
 in moffc places two hours over. It enjoys good ftreams of 
 water at convenient diftances, and everything elie, that 
 might render it both plea fan t, and fruitful. But this de- 
 licious Plain is now almoft defblate, being fufiier'd, for want 
 of culture, to run up to rank weeds, which were at the 
 time when we pafs'd it, as high as our Horfe's backs. 
 
 Having Travelled about one hour in the Plain of Acra, 
 we palled by an old Town call'd 'Lib:, fituate on an afcent 
 clofe by the Sea fide. This may probably be the old Achzib, 
 mention'd Joju. to. 29. and Jud. 1. 3 1. called afterwards 
 £jcdippa\ for St. Jerome places Achzib nine miles diftant 
 from Ttokmais towards Tyre, to which account we found 
 the fituation of Zib exactly agreeing. This is one of the 
 places, out of which the Afhentes could not expel the Ca- 
 naanitifli Natives. Two hours farther we came to a Foun- 
 tain of very good water, call'd by the French Merchants 
 at Acra the Fountain of the Bicfled Virgin. In one hour 
 more, we arrive! at Acra. Our whole itage from Roje- 
 hyn hither was about eight hours and a hair. 
 
 Acra had Anciently the name ot'Accfio, and is another 
 of the places, out of which the Children of Ifrael could 
 not drive the Primitive Inhabitants. Jud. 1. 31. Being ill 
 after times enlarged by Tiolemy the firfl, it was called by 
 
 him 
 
Jllmini Carmzl 
 
 WP 
 
 Tlu great nwnan&ry of thCatmikteiiWh&reEkassiKriz 
 icHiT/ie rwtfKiflion.fTkthcwcfi afS%hn d'/forej. 
 Ju town ofS^ohndAcreSTlu rwuJ&tlus. 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. f 3 
 
 him from his own name Ttolanais. But now fince it hath 
 been in the poUeflion of the Turks, it has (according to 
 the example of many other Citys in Turky ) caft off it's 
 Greek, and ;: recover'd feme fembJance of it's old Hebrew 
 name again: being called Acca, or Acta. 
 
 This City was for a long time the Theater of Conten- 
 tion between the Chriftians and Infidels, till at laft, after 
 having divers times changed it's Mafters, it was by a long 
 Siege finally taken by the Turks and ruin 'd by them, in 
 iiich a manner, as if they had thought, they could never 
 take a full revenge upon it for the blood it had coft them, 
 or fufliciently prevent fuch {laughters for the future. As 
 to it's fituation it enjoys all poliible advantages both of 
 Sea and Land. On it's North and Eaft fides it is com- 
 pafsd with a fpatious fertile Plain : on the Weft it is 
 wafhed by the Mediterranean Sea, and on the South by a 
 large Bay, extending from the City as far a$ Mount Carmel. 
 
 But notwithfhnding all thefe advantages, is has never 
 been able to recover it ielf, fince it's laft fatal overthrow. 
 For befides a large Kane in which the French Factors have 
 taken up their Quarters, and a Mofque, and a few poor 
 Cottages vou fee nothing here but a vaft and fpatious ruin. 
 It is inch a ruin however as fufliciently demonftrates the 
 ftrength of the place in former times. It appears to have 
 been encompais'd on the Land fide by a double Wall de- 
 fended with Towers at fmall diftances. And, without the 
 Walls are Ditches, Ramperts, and a kind of Baftions faced 
 with hewn ftone. In the Fields without thefe works, we 
 law fcatter'd up and down upon the ground feveral large 
 balls of ftone, of" at leaft thirteen or fourteen inches dia- 
 meter which were part of the Ammunition ufed in Battering 
 the City, Guns being then unknown. Within the Walls 
 there ftili appear feveral ruins which feem to diftinguifli 
 thcmfelves from the general heap, by fbme marks of a 
 greater ftrength, and magnificence. As firft, thofe of the 
 
 * iA»>mi.>in. JA&ctll. fays the Greek, and Roman names of places never tnok 
 amongft the Natives of this Country: which is the rc:ifon that molt places 
 recain their firft Oriental Names at this day Lib 14.. Htf. nan kngt ab iuirit. 
 
 Cathe- 
 
5*4 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufaletn. 
 
 Cathedral Church dedicated to St. Andrew, which (lands 
 not far from the Sea tide, more high and confpicuous than 
 the other ruins. Secondly the Church of St. John the tu- 
 telar Saint of this City. Thirdly the Convent of the 
 Knights Hofpitallers, a place whole remaining Walls flifll- 
 ciently tcihfie it's Ancient flrength. And not far from 
 the Convent, the Palace of the Grand Mafter of that Or- 
 der. The magnificence of which may be gnels'd from a 
 large flair-cafe, and part of a Church ftill remaining in it. 
 Fourthly fome remains of a large Church formerly belong- 
 ing to a Nunnery, of which they tell this memorable ftory. 
 7 he Turks having prefs'd this City with along and fu- 
 rious Siege, at laft enter'd it by Storm May 19. 12.91. In 
 which great extremity, the Abbeis of this Nunnery, fear- 
 ing leaft llie, and thole under her care, might be forced 
 to fubmit to fuch beflialitys, as are ufual in cafes of that 
 deplorable Nature, ufed this cruel but generous means for 
 fecunng both her felf, and them: fhe fummon'd all her 
 flock together, and exhorted them to cut, and mangle their 
 faces, as the only way to preferve their Virgin purity. 
 And to (hew how much fhe was in earned, fne immediat- 
 ly began before them all, to make her felf an Example of 
 her own Counfel. The Nuns were fo animated by this 
 heroical refolution, and pattern of the Abbefs, that they 
 began inflantly to follow her Example, cutting off their 
 Notes, and disfiguring their faces, with fuch terrible gafhes, 
 as might excite horrour rather than luftful defires in the 
 Beholders. The confequence of which was, that the Soul- 
 diers breaking into the Nunnery, and feeing inftead of 
 thofe beautiful Ladys they expected, fuch tragical fpecla- 
 cles, took a revenge for their di (appointed luffs by putting 
 them all to the Sword. Thus restoring them, as in Cha- 
 rity we may fuppofe, to a new, and inviolable beauty. 
 But to go on, many other ruins here are of Churches, Pa- 
 laces, Monaftenes, Forts, &c. extending for more than half 
 a mile in length : in all which you may difcern marks of 
 fo much flrength, as if every building in the City, had 
 been contriv'd for War, and Defence. 
 
 But 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. f? 
 
 But that which plea fed us molt at Acra^ was to find the 
 French Confi.il Monfieur I 'E?npereur there : who had 
 been fo generous as to make a halt of two days, in ex- 
 pectation of our arrival. But he had (laid to the utmoffc 
 extent of his time, and therefore reloJv'd to fet forward 
 again, the next morning. Ourgreateft difficulty was to 
 determine which Road to take, whether that upon the 
 Coaft by Cat/area and Joppa ? or that by Nazareth ? or a 
 middle way between both the other, over the Plain of 
 EJdraelon ? 
 
 The caufe of this uncertainty was, the embroylments 
 and factions that were then amongft the Arabs : which 
 made us defirons to keep as far as poiiible out of their way. 
 Tis the policy of the Turks always to fbw divifions 
 amongft thefe wild people, by fetung up ieveral heads 
 over their Tribes, often depofing the old, and placing new 
 ones in their ftead. By which Art they create contrary 
 Intercity and Parties among them, preventing them from 
 ever uniting under any one Prince, which if they fliould 
 have the fence to do, being fb numerous and almoft the 
 fole Inhabitants thereabouts, they might fhake off the 
 Turkifh yoak, and make themfelves fupream Lords of the 
 Country. 
 
 But however ufeful thefe difcords may be to the Turks 
 in this refpeel, yet a ftranger is fure to fuffer by them: 
 being made a prey to each party, according, as he happens 
 to come in their way : avoiding which abufes, we re- 
 folv'd to take the middle way, as themoft fecure at this 
 time. 
 
 Monday Mar. la. 
 
 According to which purpofe, we fet out early the next 
 morning from Acra, having with us a band of Turkifh 
 Souldiers for our fecurer Convoy. Our Road lay for about 
 half an hour along by the fide of the Bay oi Acra\ and 
 then, arriving at the bottom of the Bay, we turn'd South- 
 ward. Here we pafsd a fmall River which we took to 
 htBelas'. famous for us Sand, which is faid to be an ex^ 
 
 ceHent 
 
$6 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 cellent material for making Glafs, as alfb to have mim- 
 fler'd the firfl occafion and hint of that invention. 
 
 Here we began to decline from the Sea Coafl, upon 
 which we had Travelled fo many days before, and to draw 
 off more Eallerly, crolling obliquely over the Plain, and 
 in two good hours we arnv'd at it's lariher fide, where it is 
 bounded by Mount Carmel. Here you line] a narrow Val- 
 ley letting you out of the Plain of A:ra into that of Ej- 
 draelon. Hereabouts is the end of the Tribe oi'^Jher, and 
 the beginning of that of Zabulon, the borders of thete two 
 Tribes being thus defer 1 bed, Jo fly. ro. 16. 
 
 Palling thro' the narrow Valley which makes a commu- 
 nication between the two Plains, we arnv'd in two hours 
 at that Ancient River, the River A'/foon, which cuts h<s 
 way down the middle of the Plain of E/draelon, and then 
 continuing his Courle clofe by the fide oS. Mount Carmd, 
 falls into the Sea, at a place called Caypha. In the con- 
 dition we law it, it's waters were low, and inconliderable : 
 but in palling along the fide of the Plain, we dilcern'd the 
 tracks of many letter torrents, falling down into it from 
 the Mountains: which muft needs make it fwell exceed- 
 ingly upon fuddain Rains, as doubtlefs it actually did at 
 the deftrudlion of Si/eras hofl. Jud. 5*. i\. In three hours 
 and a half from Kifhon \t came to a linall brook, near 
 which was an old Village and a good Kane called Legitne^ 
 Not far from which we took up our Quarters this night. 
 From this place we had a large profpect of the Plain of 
 Ejdraehn, which is of a vail extent, and very fertile, but 
 uncultivated : only ierving the Arabs, for pafturage. At 
 about fix or feven hours diflance Eaftward flood within 
 view Nazareth, and the two Mounts Tabor and Hermon. 
 We were fufficiently inifcrudted by experience, what the 
 holy TJatmiJi means by the Dew of Hermon, our Tents 
 being as wet with it, as if it had ram'd all night. At about 
 a miles dillance from us was encamp'd Chibly, Emir of the 
 Arabs, with his people and cattle, and beiow upon the 
 brook Ki/hon, lay encamped another Clan of the Arabs 
 being the adverfe party to Chibly. We had much the lefs 
 
 fatif- 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 5 7 
 
 fatisfaclion in this place, for being feated in the midft, be- 
 tween two fuch bad Neighbours. Our ftage this day was 
 in all eight hours, our courfe South Eait by South, or 
 thereabout. 
 
 Tuejday dMar. 23. 
 
 Leaving this Lodging wearriv'd in one third of an hour 
 at the Emir's Tents, who came out in perfon to take his 
 dutys of us. We paid him * two Caphars. viz. one of La- 
 gune, and another of Jeneen> and betides the Caphars, 
 whatever elfe he was pleas'd to demand. He eafed us in 
 a very courteous manner of fbme of our Coats which now 
 ( the heat, both of the Climate, and Seafon encreawing 
 upon us ) began to grow not only fuperfiuous but bur- 
 den fom. 
 
 Getting quit of Chibly we turn'd out of the Plain of Ef~ 
 draelon, and enter'd into the Precincts of the half Tribe of 
 Manajfes. From hence our Road lay for about four hours 
 thro' narrow Valleys, pleafantly wooded on both tides. 
 After which, cro/Iing another fmall fruitful Plain, we 
 came in half an hour to Caphar Arab, where we Lodged. 
 Our whole ftage exceeded not five hours ; our courfe be- 
 ing near as the day before. 
 
 Wednefday Mar. 24. 
 
 Having paid our Caphar we fet out very early the next 
 morning, and leaving tirft Arab, and then Rama ( two 
 Mountain Villages ) on the right hand, we arrived in one 
 hour at a fair Fountain call'd Selee \ taking it's name 
 from an adjacent Village. In one hour more we came to 
 Sebafta. Here you leave the borders of the half Tribe of 
 ManaJSeSy and enter into thofe of the Tribe of Ephraim. 
 
 Sebafta is the Ancient Samaria, the Imperial City of 
 the ten Tribes after their revolt from the Houle of "David. 
 It loft it's former name in the time of Herod the great, who 
 rais'd it from a ruin'd to a moft Magnificent ftate, and 
 called it, in honour of Auguftus C<efar y Sebafta. It is fi- 
 
 * For both Caphars, eight ftr Frank, and three t>f Setvwt. 
 
 H tuate 
 
S 8 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 
 tuate upon a long Mount of an oval figure, having firfl a 
 fruitful Valley, and then a ring of Hills running round 
 about it. This great City is now wholly converted into 
 Gardens ; and all the tokens that remain, to tcftify that 
 there has ever been fuch a place, are only, on the North 
 fide, a large fquare Piazza, encompafs'd with Pillars, and 
 on the Eaft fbme poor remains of a great Church, faid to 
 have been built by the Emprefs Helena, over the place 
 where St. John Baptift was both imprilbn'd and beheaded. 
 In the body of the Church you go down a flair-cafe, into 
 the very dungeon, where that holy blood was fhed. The 
 Turks ( of whom here are a few poor familys) hold this 
 Prifon in great Veneration, and over it have erecled a 
 ftnall Mofque, but for a little piece of money they iuffer 
 you to go in and fatisfy your curiofity at pleafure. 
 
 Leaving Sebafta we pafs'd m half an hour by Sherack, 
 and in an other half hour by Barjeba } two Villages on the 
 right hand, and then entring into a narrow Valley, lying 
 Ealt, and Weft, and water d with a fine rivulet, we ar- 
 rived in one hour at i\lat>/ofa. 
 
 Naploja is the Ancient Sychem } or Sychar, as it is term'd 
 in the new Teitament. It ftands in a narrow Valley be- 
 tween Mount Gerizim on the South, and Ebal on the 
 North, being built at the foot of the former, for fo the 
 fituation, both of the City and Mountains is laid down by 
 JofepfiuS) Antiq.Jud. Lib. y. Cap. p. Gerizim (lays he) 
 hangeth' over Sychem, and Lib. 4. Cap. ult. Mojes com- 
 manded to erect an Altar toward the Eafl, not far from 
 Sychem, between Mount Gerizim on the right hand, (that 
 is to one looking Eaftward on the South ) and Hebal on 
 the left ( that is on the North) which fo plainly afligns the 
 pofition of thefe two Mountains, that it may be wonder 'd, 
 how Geographers fliould come to differ fo much about it ; 
 or for what reaion, Adrtcbamms fhould place them both 
 on the fame fide of the Valley of Sychem. From Mount 
 Gerizim it was that God commanded the bleflings to be 
 pronounced upon the Children of : JJrael, and from Mount 
 Ebal the curies. Z>eut. 1 1. 29. Upon the former, the 
 
 Sama- 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. y $> 
 
 Samaritans, whole chief relidence is here at Sychtm, have 
 a fmall Temple or place of' Worfhip; to which they are 
 ftill wont to repair, at certain feafons, for performance of 
 the rites of their Religion. Whatthefe rites are, I could 
 not certainly learn: but that their Religion conlifts in the 
 adoration of a Calf, as the Jews give out, ieems to have 
 more of fpite than of truth in it. 
 
 Upon one of thefe Mountains alio it was, that God com- 
 manded the Children of IJirael to let up great (tones, pla- 
 (ter'd over and infenbed with the body of their Law ; and 
 to erecl: an Altar and to offer Sacrifices, feafting, and re- 
 joycing before the Lord. Deitf. 27. 4. but now whether 
 Gerizim or Ebal was the place appointed for this folem- 
 nity, there is lome caufe to doubt. The Hebrew Penta- 
 teuch, and ours from it, alfigns Mount Ebal for this ufe, 
 but the Samaritan aflerts it to Gerizim. 
 
 Our Company halting a little while at Naphfa, I had 
 an opportunity to go aud vifit the chief Prieft of the Sa- 
 maritans, in order to difcourfe with him, about this and 
 fbme other difficulties occurring in the Pentateuch : which 
 were recommended to me to be enquir'd about by the 
 Learned Monfieur Job ZWo^6«j, Author of the yEthiopick 
 Hiftory, when I vifited him at Franckforci^ in my paifage 
 thro' Germany. 
 
 As for the difference between the Hebrew, and Samari- 
 tan Copy T)eut. 27. 4. before cited ; the Pneft pretended 
 the Jews had mahcioufly alter'd their Text, out of odium 
 to the Samaritans; putting, for Gerizim, Ebal, upon no 
 other account, but only becaufe the Samaritans Worfhip- 
 ped in the former Mountain, which they would have, for 
 that reafbn, not to be the true place, appointed by God 
 for his Worfhip, and Sacrifice. To confirm this he plead- 
 ed that Ebal was the Mountain of curling T)eut. 11. 29. 
 and in its own nature an unpleafant place: but on the 
 contrary Gerizim was the Mountain of bleiiing by Gods 
 own appointment, and alfo in it's felf fertile and delight- 
 ful; from whence he inferr'd a probability that this latter. 
 mult have been the true Mountain, appointed for thole 
 
 H 2. reli- 
 
6 o A Journey from Alepp to Jerujalem. 
 
 religious feftivals Deut. 17 ■ 4- and not ( as the Jews have 
 corruptly written it ) Hebal. We obferv'd it to be in 
 ibme meafure true that which he pleaded concerning the 
 nature of both Mountains; for tho' neither of the Moun- 
 tains, has much to boaft of as to their plealantnefs, yet as 
 one paffes between them, Gerizim fecms to difcover, a 
 fbmewhat more verdant fruitful afpeit than Ebal. The rea- 
 fon of which may be, becaufe fronting toward the North, 
 it is fhelter'd from the heat of the Sun by it's own fhade : 
 whereas Ebal looking Southward and receiving the Sun 
 that comes direcTJy upon it, muff by confequence be ren- 
 der'd more fcorched and unfruitful. The Samaritan Prieft 
 could not (ay that any of thole great ffcones, which God 
 directed Jojhua to fet up, were now to be feen in Mount 
 Gerizim : which, were they now extant, would determine 
 the queflion clearly on his fide. 
 
 I enquir'd of him next what fort of Animal he thought 
 thofe Selarva might be, which the Children of IJrael were 
 fo long fed with in the Wildernefs Numb. 1 1. he aniwer'd, 
 they were a fort of Fowls, and by the defcription, which 
 he gave of them, I perceiv'd he meant the fame kind with 
 our Quails I asked him what he thought of Lsocufts, and 
 whether the Hiftory might not be better accounted for, 
 iuppofing them to be the winged Creatures that fell io 
 thick about the Camp of IJrael} but by his anfwer it ap- 
 pear'd, he had never heard of any fuch Hypothecs. Then 
 I demanded of him what fort of Plant or Fruit the *Du- 
 daim or (as we Tranflate it ) Mandrakes were, which 
 Leah gave to Rachel^ for the purchafe of her Husbands 
 embraces? he faid they were Plants of a large leaf^ bearing 
 a certain fort of Fruit, in (hapc refemblingan Apple, grow- 
 ing ripe in Harvefl, but of an ill favour, and not whol- 
 fome. But the virtue of them was to help conception, 
 being; laid under the Genial Bed. That the Women were 
 often wont fo to apply it,, at this day, out of an opinion 
 of it's prolifick virtue. Of thefe Plants I law feveral af- 
 terwards in the way to Jerufa/em^ and ii they were fo 
 common 111 Mejcpotamia, as we law them hereabout, one 
 
 mufr 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 6 r 
 
 muft either conclude that thefe could not be the true 
 Mandrakes ( 'Dudajm ) or elfe it would puzzle a good 
 critique to give a reafon, why Rachel fhould purchafe 
 fuch vulgar things at fo belov'd and contefled a price. 
 
 This Prieft fhew'd me a Copy of the Samaritan Penta- 
 teuch, but would not be perfwaded to part with it upon 
 any confideration. He had likewife the firft Vol. of the 
 Englifh Polyglot, which he feem'd to elteem equally with 
 his own Manufcript. 
 
 Naplofa is at prefent, in a very mean condition, in 
 companion of what it is reprefented to have been An- 
 ciently. It conlilts chiefly of two Streets lying parallel, 
 under iSMount Gerizim, but it is full of people, and the 
 Seat of a Bajfa. 
 
 Having paid our Caphar here, we let forward again in 
 the evening, and proceeding in the fame narrow Valley, 
 between Gervzim and Ebal ( not above a furlong broad ) 
 we faw on our right hand jufl without the City, a fmall 
 Mofque, faid to have been built over the Sepulcher, pur- 
 chafed by Jacob of Emmor the Father of Shechem. Gen. 
 SI- 19. It goes by the name of Jojeplh Sepulcher his 
 bones having been here interr'd, after their Tranfporta- 
 tion out of Egypt. Jojljua 24. 32. 
 
 At about one third of an hour from NapJoJa, we came 
 to Jacobs JVell famous, not only upon account of it's Au- 
 thor, but much more for that memorable conference, 
 which our Blehxd Saviour here had with the Wcman of 
 Samaria John 4. If it fhould be queftion'd whether this 
 be the very Well that it is pretended for or no, feeing it 
 may be fufpe&ed, to Itand too remote from Sychar^ for 
 women to come io far to draw water? it isanfwer'd, that 
 probably the City extended farther this way in former 
 times than it does now, as may be conjedtur'd from fome 
 pieces of a very thick Wall, (till to be feen not far from 
 hence. Over the Well there flood formerly a large 
 Church ; ere&ed by that great and devout Patronefs of 
 the Holy-Land, the Emprefs Helena. But of this the 
 voracity of time, aflilted by the hands of the Turks, has 
 
 left 
 
6 2 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 left nothing but a few Foundations remaining. The Well 
 is cover'd at prefent with an old ftone Vault ; into which 
 you are let down thro' a very ftrait hole, and then re- 
 moving a broad flat Hone, you difcover the mouth of the 
 Well it felf. It is dug in a firm Rock, and contains about 
 three yards in diameter, and thirty five in depth: five of 
 which we found full of water. This confutes a ftory, 
 commonly told to Travellers, who do not take the pains 
 to examine the Well, viz. that it is dry alt the year round, 
 except on the Anniverfary of that day on which our 
 Blefled Saviour fate upon it ; but then bubbles up with 
 abundance of water. 
 
 At this Weil the narrow Valley of Sychetn ends ; open- 
 ing it felf into a wide Field, which is probably part of 
 that parcel of ground, given by Jacob to his Son Jofeph. 
 John 4. 5. It is water a with a frefh ftream, rifing be- 
 tween it and Sychem^ which makes it fo exceeding ver- 
 dant, and fruitful, that it may well be looked upon as a 
 ftanding token of the tender affection of that good Pa- 
 triarch to the beft of Sons, Gen. 48. 22. 
 
 From Jacobs JVett our Road went Southward, along 
 a very fpatious and fertile Valley. Having pafs'd by two 
 Villages on the right hand, one called Howar, the other 
 Sawee ; we arrived in four hours at Kane Lebarij and 
 Lodged there. Our whole ftage to day was about eight 
 hours our courfe variable between Eafl and South. 
 
 Kane Leban Hands on the Eafl fide, af a delicious Vale 
 having a Village of the fame name ftanding oppofite to it 
 on the other iide of the Vale. One of thefe places either 
 the Kane or the Village is fuppofed to have been the Le- 
 bonah mention'd Jud. 11. ip. To which both the name 
 and fituation feem to agree. 
 
 TkurJ'day Mar. %*. 
 From Kane Leban our Road lay thro' a more Moun- 
 tainous and Rocky Country ; of which we had a fpeci- 
 men as foon as we were mounted the next morning. Our 
 firfl task being to climb a very craggy and difficult Moun- 
 tain. 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 6 3 
 tain. In three quarters of an hour we left, at fotne di- 
 fiance on the right hand a Village called Cmga } and in 
 one hour more, we enter'd into a very narrow Valley, 
 between two high Rocky Hills, at the farther end of 
 which we found the ruins of a Village, and of a Mona- 
 ftery. In this very place, or hereabouts, Jacobs Bethel is 
 fuppofed to have been : where he had his ftony Couch 
 made eafy, by that beatifying vifion of God, and of the 
 Angels aicending, and defcending, on a ladder reaching 
 from Earth to Heaven, Gen. 28. Near this place are the 
 limits Separating between Ephraim and Benjamin, Jojh. 
 18. 13. 
 
 From hence we pafs'd thro' large Olive yards, and 
 having left firfl Geeb and then Selwid ( two Arab Villa- 
 ges) on the right hand, we came in an hour and a half 
 to an old way cut with great labour over a Rocky Preci- 
 pice, and in one hour more we arrived at Beer. This is 
 the place to which Jotham fled from the revenge of his 
 Brother Abimelech,Jud.<). 21. It is fuppos'd alio to be 
 the fame with Mkhmas, 1 Sam. 14. 
 
 Beer enjoys a very pleafant fituation, on an eafy decli- 
 vity fronting Southwards. At the bottom of the Hill, it 
 has a plentiful Fountain of excellent water, from which 
 it has it's name. At its upper fide are remains of an old 
 Church built by the Emprefs Helena, in memory of the 
 Blefled Virgin, who when fhe went in quell of the Child 
 Jefus, as is related Luke 2. 24. came, (as tradition adds ) 
 to this City ; and not finding him whom her Soul loved 
 in the company, fhe fate down weary and penfive at fb 
 fad a difappointment in the very place were the Church 
 now Hands. But afterwards returning lojeiujalem fhe 
 had her maternal fears turn'd into joy, when lhe found 
 him fitting in the Temple amongfl the Dodlors, both hear- 
 ing them and asking them queftions. 
 
 All along this day's Travel from Kane Leban to Beer 
 and alfb as far as we could fee round, the Country difco- 
 ver'd quite a different face from what it had before : pre- 
 fenting nothing to the view, in mofl places but naked 
 
 Rocks, 
 
(J 4 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujakm. 
 
 Rocks, Mountains, and Precipices. At fight of which, 
 Pilgrims are apt to be much aftonifh'd and baulk'd in 
 their expectations; finding that Country in fuch an in- 
 hofpi table condition, concerning whole pleafantnefs, and 
 plenty they had betbre form'd in their minds fuch high 
 Idea's from the defcription given of it, in the word of 
 God ; mfbmuch that it almoft itartles their Faith, when 
 they reflect, how it could be poilible, for a Land like 
 this, to fupply food for fo prodigious a number of Inha- 
 bitants, as are laid to have been, poll'd in the twelve 
 Tribes at one time ; the fum given in by Joab y 2 Sam. 24. 
 amounting to no lefs then thirteen hundred thoufand 
 fighting men, beGdes Women and Children. But it is 
 certain that any man, who is not a little biafs'd to In- 
 fidelity before , may lee as he patles along arguments 
 enough to fupport his Faith againft fuch fcruples. 
 
 For it is obvious for any one to oblerve, that thefe 
 Rocks, and Hills muft have been Anciently cover'd with 
 Earth, and cultivated and made to contribute to the mam- 
 tainance of the Inhabitants no lefs than if the Country 
 had been all plain, nay perhaps much more ; forafmuch 
 as fuch a Mountainous and uneven furface, affords a 
 larger fpace of ground for cultivation than this Country 
 would amount to, if it were all reduced to a perfect level. 
 
 For the husbanding of thefe Mountains, their manner 
 was, to gather up the flones, and place them in feveral 
 lines, along the fides of the Hills, in form of a Wall. By 
 fuch borders, they fupported the mould from tumbling, 
 or being wafhed down ; and form'd many beds of excel- 
 lent foil, rifing gradually one above another from the 
 bottom to the top of the Mountains. 
 
 Of this form of culture you fee evident footiteps where- 
 ever you go in all the Mountains ofcTakftme. Thus the 
 very Rocks were made fruitful. And perhaps there is no 
 fpot of ground in this whole Land, that was not former- 
 ly improv'd, to the production of fomething or other, 
 miniftring to the fuftenance of human life. For than the 
 plain Country and Valleys, nothing upon Earth can be 
 : more 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem . 6 $ 
 
 more fruitful ; whether for the producing of Corn or Cat- 
 tle. The hill Country tho' improper for Cattle, yet ferv'd 
 to bear Corn m great abundance ; being difpofed in fuch 
 beds as are afore defcribed. The molt Rocky parts of all, 
 which could not well be adjufted in that manner for the 
 production of Corn, might yet ferve for the Plantation of 
 Vines, and Olive Trees; which delight to extract the one 
 it's fatnefs the other it's ipnghtly juice, chiefly out of 
 inch dry and flinty places. And the great Plain joyning 
 to the dead Sea, which, by reafbn of it's faltnefs, might 
 be thought unferviceable both for Cattle, Corn, Olives, 
 and Vines, had yet it's proper uiefulnefs, for the nourish- 
 ment of Bees, and for the Fabrick of Honey : of which 
 Jojephus gives us his Teflimony 'De Bell. Jud. Lib. y. 
 Cap. 4. And I have reafon to believe it, becaufe when I 
 was there, I perceiv'd in many places a fmell of Honey 
 and Wax, as ftrong as if one had been in an Apiary, 
 Why then might not this Country very well maintain 
 the vaft number of it's Inhabitants, being in every part 
 io produdhve of either Milk, Corn, Wine, Oyl, or Ho- 
 ney ? which are the principal food of thefe Ealtern Na- 
 tions: the conflitution of their Bodys, and the nature of 
 their Clime, enclining them to a more abflemious diet 
 than we ufe in England, and other colder Regions. But 
 I halten to Jerufalem. 
 
 Leaving Beer, we proceeded, as before in a rude ftony 
 Country, which yet yielded us the fight of feveral old 
 ruin'd Villages. In two hours and one third we came to 
 the top of a Hill, from whence we had the firft profpecT: 
 of Jerufalem; Rama anciently cali'd Gibe ah of Saul being 
 within view on the right hand, and the Plain of Jericho, 
 and the Mountains of Gilead on the left. In one hour 
 more we approached the Walls of the holy City ; but we 
 could not enter immediatly, it being neceflary tirft to fend 
 a meilenger, to acquaint the Governour of our Arrival, 
 and to defire liberty of Entrance. Without which pre- 
 ceeding ceremony, no Frank dares come within the Walls. 
 We therefore palled along by the Weft iide of the City, 
 
 I and 
 
66 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujakm, 
 
 and coming to the corner above Bethlehem Gate, made a 
 ltop there, in order to expecl the return of our meflen- 
 ger. We had not waited above half an hour, when he 
 brought us our permiHion, and we enter'd accordingly at 
 Bethlehem Gate. It is required of all Franks unleis they 
 happen to come in with fome publick Minilter, to de- 
 mount at the Gate, to deliver their Arms and enter on 
 foot, but we coming in company with the French Conful, 
 had the privilege to enter mounted, and Arm'd. Juft 
 within the Gate, we turned up a Street on the left hand 
 and were conducted by the Conful to his own houie, with 
 molt friendly and generous invitations to make that our 
 home, as long as weihould continue at Jerujakm. Having 
 taken a little refreihment, we went to the Latin Convent, 
 at which all Frank Pilgrims are wont to be entertained. 
 The Guardian, and Friars receiv'd us with many kind 
 welcomes; and kept us with them at Supper ; after which 
 we returned to the French Conful's to Bed. And thus 
 "we continued to take our Lodging at theConfuls, and our 
 Board with the Friars during our whole flay -At Jerujakm. 
 
 Friday Mar. i6> 
 The next day being Good Friday in the Latin Style, 
 the Conful was obliged to go into the Church of the Se- 
 pulcher, in order to keep his Feait ; whither we accom- 
 panied him, ahho' our own Eafter was not till a week 
 after theirs. We found the Church doors guarded by fe- 
 veral Janizaries, and other Turkifh Officers ; who are 
 placed here to watch, that none enter in, but iuch as have 
 firlt paid their appointed Caphar. This is more or leis ac- 
 cording to the Country or the character, of the perfbns 
 that enter. For Franks it is ordinarily fourteen Dollars 
 per head, unlefs they are Ecclefiafticks, for in that cafe it 
 
 IS OUt uaii 10 much. 
 
 Having once paid this Caphar you may go in and out 
 gratis as often as you pleaie during the whole Feaft : pro- 
 vided you take the ordinary opportunities, m which it is 
 cuftomary to open the doors : but if you would have 
 
 them 
 
A [ourney from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 67 
 
 them open'd at any time out of the common courfe, pur- 
 pofely for your own private occafion, then the firft ex- 
 pence muft be paid again. 
 
 The Pilgrims being all admitted this day, the Church 
 doors were Jock'd in the evening, and open'd no more till 
 Eafter day ; by which we were kept in a dole, but very 
 happy confinement for three days. We fpent our time in 
 viewing the ceremonies pra£tis'd by the Latins at this Fe- 
 ftival, and in vifiting the feveral holy places: all which 
 we had opportunity to f urvey with as much freedom, and 
 deliberation as we plea fed. 
 
 And now being got under the facred roof, and having 
 the advantage of lo much leifure and freedom, I might 
 expatiate in a large defcnption of the feveral holy places, 
 which this Church (as a Cabinet) contains in it. But this 
 would be a fuperfiuous prolixity, fo many Pilgrims having 
 difcharg'd this office, with fb much exadtnefs already, and 
 efpecially our Learned fagacious Country-man Mr. Sandys : 
 whofe defcriptions and draughts, both of this Church, 
 and alfo of the other remarkable places in and about^- 
 rujalem, muft be acknowledged fo faithful, and perfect, 
 that they leave very little to be added by after commers, 
 and nothing to be corrected. I fhall content my felf there- 
 fore, to relate only what palled in the Church during 
 this Feftival, faying no more of the Church it felf, than 
 j uft what is neceffary to make my account intelligible. 
 
 The Church of the holy Sepulcher is founded upon 
 Mount Calvary, which is a fmall Eminency or Hill upon 
 the greater Mount of <JMoriah. It was Anciently appro- 
 priated to the execution of Malefactors, and therefore fhut 
 out of the Walls of the City, as an execrable and polluted 
 place. But fince it was made the Altar on which was of- 
 fer'd up the precious, and all-fufficient Sacrifice for the 
 Sins of the whole World, it has recover'd it felf from 
 that infamy, and has been always reverene'd and refbrted 
 to with fuch devotion by all Chriftians, that it has at- 
 tracted the City round about it, and ftands now in the 
 midft of Jerufakm, a great part of the Hill otSion being 
 
 I 2, fhut 
 
68 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 (hut out of the Walls to make room for the admiiiion of 
 Calvary. 
 
 In order to the fitting of this Hill for the Foundation 
 of a Church, the firffc Founders were obliged to reduce it 
 to a plain Area, which they did by cutting down feveral 
 parts of the Rock, and by elevating others. But in this 
 work care was taken, that none of thole parts of the Hill, 
 which were reckon'd to be more immediatly concem'd m 
 our BlefTed Lords Paffion fhould be alter'd or diminifhed. 
 Thus that very part of Calvary, where they fay Chriif. 
 was faften'd to, and lifted upon his Crols is left entire, 
 (landing at this day eighteen fteps above the common floor 
 of the Church: and the holy Sepulcher it felf which was 
 atfirft a Cave hewn into the Rock under ground, having 
 had the Rock cut away from it all round is now as it were 
 a Grotto above ground. 
 
 The Church is lefs than one hundred paces long, and 
 not more than fixty wide, and yet is fb contrived, that it 
 is fuppofed to contain under it's roof twelve or thirteen 
 Sanctuaries, or places Confecrated to a more than ordina- 
 ry veneration by being reputed to have fome particular 
 actions done in them relating to the Death, and Refur- 
 re&ion of Chriil. As firfl, the place where he was de- 
 rided by the Souldiers : fecondly, where the Souldiers di- 
 vided his Garments : thirdly, where he was ftiut up, whilf t 
 they dig'd the hole to fet the foot of the Crofs in, and 
 made all ready for his Crucifixion : fourthly, where he 
 was nailed to the Crofs: fifthly, where the Crofs was 
 erecled : fixthly, where the Souldiers flood that pierced 
 his fide: feventhly, where his Body was anointed in or- 
 der to his Burial : eighthly, where his Body was depofited 
 in the Sepulcher: ninthly, where the Angels appear'd to 
 the women after his Reiurrection : tenthly, where Chnft 
 hi mfelf appear'd to Mary Magdakn, &c. The places where 
 thefe and many other things relating to our Bleiled Lord 
 are laid to have been done, are all fuppofed to be contain'd 
 within the narrow preempts of this Church, and are all di- 
 ihnguifhed and adorned with fo manv feveral Altars. 
 
 In 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 6 9 
 
 In Galleries round about the Church, and alfo in little 
 buildings annext to it on the out fide, are certain apart- 
 ments for the reception of Fryars and Pilgrims, and in 
 theie places almoft every Chrif ban Nation Anciently main- 
 tain'd a {mall fbciety of Monks, each fociety having it's 
 proper quarter ailigned to it, by the appointment of the 
 Turks. Such as the Latins, Greeks, Syrians, Armenians, 
 AbyHines, Georgians, Neftonans, Cophtites, Maronites, &c. 
 all which had Anciently, their feveral apartments in the 
 Church. But thefe have all, except four, forfaken their 
 Quarters: not being able to fuftain the fevere rents, and 
 extortions, which their Turkifh Landlords impofe upon 
 them. The Latins, Greeks, Armenians, and Cophtites 
 keep their footing ihll. But of thefe four the Cophtites 
 have now only one poor reprefentative of their Nation 
 left. And the Armenians are run fb much in debt, that 
 'tis fuppofed they are haftning apace to follow the exam- 
 ples of their Brethren, who have deferted before them. 
 
 Bclides their feveral apartments, each Fraternity have 
 their Altars, and San&uary, properly and diftin&ly allot- 
 ted to their own ufe. At which places they have a pe- 
 culiar right to perform their own Divine Service, and to 
 exclude other Nations from them. 
 
 But that which has always been the great prize con- 
 tended for by the feveral Sedts is the command, and ap- 
 propriation of the holy Sepulcher, a privilege contefled 
 with ib much unchnffian fury, and animofity, efpecially 
 between the Greeks and Latins, that in difputing, which 
 party fhould go into it to celebrate their Mafs; they have 
 fometimes proceeded to blows and wounds even at the 
 very door of the Sepulcher: mingling their own blood 
 with their Sacrifices. An evidence of which fury the Fa- 
 ther Guardian fliewed us in a great fear upon his Arm, 
 which he told us was the mark of a wound, given him 
 by a f turdy Greek Prieft in one of thefe unholy Wars. 
 Who can exped ever to fee thefe holy places refcued from 
 the hands of Infidels ? or if they fhould be recover'd, 
 what deplorable contefts might be expected to follow about 
 
 them ? 
 
70 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 them ? feeing even in their prefent State of Captivity, they 
 are made the occafion of fuch unchrifhan rage, and ani- 
 mofity. 
 
 For putting an end to thefe infamous Quarrels, the 
 French King interpos'd, by a Letter to the Grand Vifier 
 about twelve years fince: requeuing him, to order the 
 holy Sepulcher to be put into the hands of the Latins, 
 according to the tenour of the Capitulation, made in the 
 year 1673. the confequence of which Letter and of other 
 inflances made by the French King was, that the holy Se- 
 pulcher was appropriated to the Latins ; this was not ac- 
 complifh'd till the year 1690. they alone having the pri- 
 vilege to fay Mais in it. And tho' it be permitted to 
 Chnflians of all Nations to go into it for their private de- 
 votions, yet none may foleranize any publick office of 
 Religion there but the Latins. 
 
 The dayly employment of thefe Reclufes is to trim the 
 I amps, and to make devotional vifits and proceflions to 
 the feveral Sancluaries in the Church. Thus they fpend 
 their time, many of them for four or fix years together ; 
 nay fo far are fome tranfported with the pleafing contem- 
 plations in which they here entertain themfelves, that 
 they will never come out to their dying day, burying 
 themfelves (as it were) alive in our Lords Grave. 
 
 The Latins, of whom there are always about ten or 
 twelve refiding at the Church, with a Prefident over them, 
 make every day a folemn proceffion, with Tapers, and 
 Crucifixes, and other proceflionary folemnities, to the fe- 
 veral Sanctuaries : finging at every one of them a Latin 
 Hymn relating to the fubject of each place. Thefe La- 
 tins being more polite and exa£l in their functions than 
 the other Monks here refiding, and alfo our converfation 
 being chiefly with them, I will only defcribe their Cere- 
 monies, without taking notice of what was done by 
 others, who did not fo much come under our obfer- 
 vation. 
 
 Their Ceremony begins on Good Friday night, which 
 is call'd by them the nox tenebrofa, and is obferv'd with 
 
 fuch 
 
A Journey from Aleppo tojerufakm. 71 
 
 fiich an extraordinary iolemnity, that I cannot omit to 
 give a particular defcription of it. 
 
 As loon as it grew dusk, all the Fryars, and Pilgrims 
 were conven'd in the Chapel of the Apparition ( which 
 is a (mall Oratory on the North fide of the Holy Grave, 
 adjoyning to the apartments of the Latins) in order to 
 go in a proceffion round the Church. But, before they 
 let out, one of the Fryars Preached a Sermon in Italian 
 m that Chapel. He began his dilcourie thus; In quejia 
 notte tenebroja &c. at which words all the candles were 
 mltantly put out, to yield a livelyer Image of the occa- 
 fion. And lo we were held by the Preacher for near half 
 an hour very much in the dark. Sermon being ended, 
 every perfon prefent had a large lighted Taper put into 
 his hand, as it were to make amends for the former dark- 
 nefs, and the Crucifixes and other utenfils were difpos'd 
 in order for beginning the proceilion. Amongft the other 
 Crucifixes there was one of a very large lize, which bore 
 upon it the Image of our Lord as big as the Life. The 
 Image was faften'd to it with great nails, Crown'd with 
 Thorns befmear'd with Blood, and fo exquiiitly was it 
 fbrm'd, that it reprefented in a very lively manner the 
 lamentable fpeclacle of our Lord's Body, as it hung upon 
 the Crofs. This Figure was carried all along in the head 
 of the proceffion ; after which the Company follow'd to 
 all the Sanctuaries in the Church, finging their appointed 
 hymn at every one. 
 
 The hrft place they vifited was that of the Pillar of 
 Flagellation, a large piece of which is kept in a little Cell 
 juft at the door of the Chapel ot the apparition. There 
 they lung their proper hymn, and another Fryar enter- 
 tam'd the Company with a Sermon in Spanifh, touching 
 the lcourgmg of our Lord. 
 
 From hence they proceeded in folemn order to the 
 Prifon of'Chriil, where they pretend he was fecur'd whilft 
 the Souldiers made things ready for his Crucifixion : here 
 likewife they fung their hymn, and a third Fryar Preach YJ 
 m French. 
 
 * From 
 
72 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 
 From the Prifon they went to the Altar of the divf- 
 lion of Chrift's Garments : where they only Tung their 
 hymn, without adding any Sermon. 
 
 Having done here, they advanc'd to the Chapel of the 
 derifion, at which, after their hymn, they had a fourth 
 Sermon ( as I remember ) in French. 
 
 From this place they went up to Calvary leaving their 
 fhooes at the bottom of the f fairs. Here are two Altars to 
 be vifited ; one where our Lord is fuppofed to have been 
 nailed to his Crofs. Another where his Crofs was erected. 
 At the former of thefe, they laid down the great Crucifix, 
 ( which I but now dcfcnbed ) upon the floor and ailed 
 a kind of a relembiance of Chrift's being naii'd to the 
 Crofs ; and after the hymn, one of the Fryars Preached 
 another Sermon in Spanifh, upon the Crucifixion. 
 
 From hence they removed to the adjoyning Altar where 
 the Crofs is i'uppos'd to have been erected, bearing the 
 Image of our Lord's Body. At this Altar is a hole in the 
 natural Rock, laid to be the very lame individual one, in 
 which the foot of our Lord's Crofs flood. Here they fet 
 up their Crofs, with the bloody Crucified Image upon it, 
 and leaving it in that pofture, they firft lung their hymn, 
 and then the Father Guardian, fitting in a Chair before it, 
 Preached a Pailion Sermon in Italian. 
 
 At about one yard and a half diflance from the hole in 
 which the foot of the Crols was fix'd, is leen that me- 
 morable cleft in the Rock, laid to have been made by the 
 Earthquake which happen'd at the fuffering of the God 
 of Nature. When (as St. Matthew Cap. 27. v. jr. wit- 
 neffeth ) the rocks rent and the very graves were operid. 
 This cleft, as to what now appears of it, is about a ipan 
 wide at it's upper part, and two deep \ after which it doles : 
 but it opens again below, ( as you may fee in another 
 Chapel under this ) and runs down to an unknown depth 
 in the Earth. That this rent was made by the Earthquake, 
 that hapen'd at our Lords Padion, there is only tradition 
 to prove : but that it is a natural, and genuine breach, and 
 not counterfeited by any Art, the fence and feafon of 
 
 every 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 7 3 
 
 every one that fees it may convince him, for the fides of 
 it fit like two Tallys to each other, and yet it runs m 
 fuch intricate windings as could not well be counterfeited 
 by Art, nor arriv'd at by any Inftrunients. 
 
 The Ceremony of the Paflion being over and the Guar- 
 dian's Sermon ended, two Fryars perlbnating the one Jo- 
 fepb of Arimathea, the other Nkodemus, approach'd the 
 Crofs, and with a moft folemn concern 'd air, both of afpect, 
 and behaviour, drew out the great Nails, and took down 
 the feigned Body from the Crofs. It was an Effigies fo 
 contriv'd, that it's Limbs were foft and flexible, as if they 
 had been real Flefh ; and nothing could be more furprifing, 
 than to fee the two pretended Mourners, bend down the 
 Arms, which were before extended, and difpoie them upon 
 the trunk, in inch a manner as is ufual in Corpfes. 
 
 The Body being taken down from the Crofs, was re- 
 ceiv'd m a fair large winding fheet, and carried down from 
 Calvary ; the whole company attending as before, to the 
 ftone of Unciion. This is taken for the very place where 
 the pretious Body of our Lord was anointed, and prepar'd 
 for the burial. Job. 19. 39. Here they laid down their 
 imaginary Corps, and cafting over it leveral fweet pow- 
 ders, and fpices, wrapt it up m the winding fheet : whilff: 
 this was doing, they fang their proper hymn, and after- 
 wards one of the Fryars Preached in Arabick a funeral 
 Sermon. 
 
 Thefe obfequies being finifhed, they carried off their 
 fancied Corps, and laid it in the SepuJchcr: fhutting up 
 the door till Eafter morning. And now after fo many 
 Sermons, and fo long, not to fay tedious, a Ceremony, it 
 may well be imagin'd that the wearineis of the Congre- 
 gation, as well as the hour of the night, made it needful 
 to go to reft. 
 
 Saturday Mar. 17. 
 
 The next morning nothing extraordinary pafs'd, which 
 gave many of the Pilgrims leifure to have their Arms 
 mark'd with the ulual enfigns of Jerufalem. The Aniits 
 
 K who 
 
74 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 who undertake the operation do it in this manner. They 
 have Itamps in wood of" any figure that youdefire; which 
 they rirft print oft* upon your Arm with powder of Char- 
 coal; then taking two very fine Needlis, ty'd dole toge- 
 ther, and dipping them often, like a pen in certain Ink, 
 compounded as 1 was infbrm'd of Gunpowder, and Ox- 
 Call, they make with them final! punctures all along the 
 lines of the figure which they have printed, and then 
 waffling the part in Wine conclude the work. Thefe 
 punctures they make with great quicknefs and dexterity, 
 and with fcarce any fmart, ieldom piercing lb deep as to 
 draw blood. 
 
 In the afternoon of* this day, the Congregation was 
 Aifcmbled, in the Area before the Holy Grave : where 
 the Fryars fpent fome hours in finging over the Lamen- 
 tations of 'Jeremiah, which function with the ufual pro- 
 ccllion to the holy places was all the Ceremony of this 
 day. 
 
 Sunday Mar.i%. 
 
 On Eafter morning the Sepulcher was again let open 
 very early. The Clouds of the former morning were clear'd 
 up, and the Fryars put on a face of joy and ferenity, as 
 if it had been the real juncture of our Lords Refurreciion. 
 Nor doubtlefs was this joy feigned, whatever their mourn- 
 ing might be, this being the day in which their L.enten 
 difciplines expn'd, and they were to come to a full belly 
 again. 
 
 The Mafs was celebrated this morning juft before the 
 holy Sepulcher, being the molt eminent place in the 
 Church, where the Father Guardian had a Throne eredled, 
 and being array 'd in Epifcopal Robes, with a Miter on 
 his Head ; in the fight of all the Turks, he gave the Hoft 
 to all that were difpos'd to receive it ; not refilling Chil- 
 dren of feven or eight years old. This office being ended, 
 we made our exit out of the Sepulcher, and returning to 
 the Convent din'd with the Fryars. 
 
 After dinner we took an opportunity to go and vifit 
 
 fbme 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 7 $- 
 
 fome of the remarkable places without the City Walls. 
 We began with thole on the North fide. 
 
 The firft place we were conducted to was a large Grot, 
 a little without Z)ama/iusGatti; laid to have been fome 
 time the refidence ok Jeremiah. On the left fide of it is 
 ihewn the Prophets Bed, bfcmg a (helve on the Rock, about 
 eight foot from the ground, and not far from this, is the 
 place, where they lay he wrote his Lamentations. This 
 place is at prelent a College of Dervifes, and is held 111 
 great veneration by the Turks, and Jews, as well as Chn- 
 itians. 
 
 The next place we came to was thole famous Grots 
 call'd the Sepulchers of the Kings; but for what reafon 
 they go by that name is hard to rclolve: for it is certain 
 none of the Kings either of Ifrael or Judah were buried 
 here, the holy Scriptures allignmg other places for their 
 Sepultures: unlels it may be thought perhaps that Heze- 
 kiab was here interr'd, and that thefe were the Sepulchers 
 of the Sons of ZW/V, mention'd 2 Chton. .$& 33: Who- 
 ever was buried here, this is certain that the place it felf 
 discovers fo great an expence both of labour, and treafure, 
 that we may well fuppofe it to have been the work of 
 Kings. You approach to it at the Eaft fide, thro' an en- 
 trance cut out of the natural Rock, which admits yon into 
 an open Court of about forty paces fquare, cut down into 
 the Rock with which it is encompafs'd inftead of Walls. 
 On the South fide of the Court is a Portico nine paces 
 long and four broad, hewn likewile out of the natural 
 Rock. This has a kind of Architrave running along it's 
 front, adorn'd with Sculpture, of fruits, and flowers, ftili 
 ddcernable, but by time much defaced. At the end of the 
 Portico on the left hand you defcend to the pailage into 
 the Sepulchers. The door is now fo obflrucled, with 
 fiones and rubbifh, that it is a thing of fome difficulty to 
 creep thro' it. But within you arrive in a large fair Room, 
 about five or fix yards fquare cut out of the natural Rock. 
 It's fides and Ceiling are fo exadtly fquare, and it's Angles 
 lb juU, that no Architect with levels and plumets could 
 
 K 2 build 
 
76 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 build a Room more regular. And the whole is fo firm, 
 and entire that it may be call'd a Chamber hollow'd out 
 of one piece of Marble. From this Room, you pals into 
 I think fix more one within another, all of the lame Fa- 
 brick with the firft. Of thefe the two innermoft are 
 deeper than the reft, having a'"fecond defcent of about fix 
 or ieven ftcps into them. 
 
 In every one of thefe Rooms, except the firft were Cof- 
 fins off tone placed in Niches in the fides of the Cham- 
 bers. They had been at firft cover'd with handfome lids, 
 and carv'd with Garlands: but now moft of them were 
 broke to pieces by facnlegious hands. The fides and Ceil- 
 ing of the Room were always dropping with the moift 
 damps condenfing upon them. To remedy which nui- 
 fance, and to prefer ve thefe Chambers of the dead polite 
 and clean, there was in each Room a finall channel cut 
 in the floor, which ferv'd to drain the drops that fall con- 
 ftantly into it. 
 
 But the moft furprizing thing belonging to thefe fub- 
 terraneons Chambers was their doors ; of which there was 
 only one remaining entire, being left as it were on pur- 
 pofe to puzzle the beholders. It confifted of a plank of 
 ftone of about fix inches in thicknefs, 
 and in it's other dimenfions equalling 
 the fize of an ordinary door, or fome- 
 what lefs. It was carv'd in fuch a 
 manner, as to refemble a piece of wain- 
 fcot, the ftone of which it was made 
 
 was vifibly of the fame kind with the 
 whole Rock, and it turn'd upon two 
 hinges in the nature of Axels. As is 
 repreiented in the marginal figure. 
 Theft hinges were of the fame entire 
 
 ■ <vA "piece of /tone with the door, and were 
 
 contain'd in two holes of the immoveable Rock, one at 
 
 the top the other at the bottom. 
 
 From this deienption it is obvious to flart a queftion, 
 
 Jiow fuch doors as thefe were made ? whether they were 
 
 cut 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem, 7 7 
 
 cut out of the Rock, in the fame place and manner as they 
 now hang ; or whether they were brought, and fix'd in 
 their ftation like other doors ? one of thefe mull be fup- 
 pos'd to have been done, and which foever part we chooie, 
 as molt probable, it feems at firft glance to be not without 
 it's difficulty. But thus much I have to fay, for the re- 
 folving of this riddle ( which is wont to create no finall 
 difpute amongtt Pilgrims.) viz. That the door which was 
 left hanging, did not touch its lintel by at leatt two in^ 
 ches ; fo that I believe it might eafily have been lifted up, 
 and unhinged. And the doors which had been thrown 
 down, had their hinges at the upper end, twice as long as 
 thofe at the bottom : which feems to intimate pretty plain- 
 ly, by what method this work was accomplilhed. 
 
 From thefe Sepulchers we return 'd toward the City 
 again, and juft by Herod's Gate were fhewn a Grotto, 
 full of filthy water and mire. This patfes for the dun- 
 geon in which Jeremiah was kept by Xedehah^ till en- 
 larged by the Charity of EJbed Mekch. Jer. 38. At this 
 place we concluded our vilits for that evening. 
 
 Monday Mar. 29. 
 The next day being Eatter Monday, the Mofblem or 
 Governor of the City, fet out, according to cuftome with 
 feveral Bands of Souldiers to convey the Pilgrims to Jor- 
 dan. Without this guard there is no going thither by 
 reafon of the Multitude and Infolence of the Arabs in thefe 
 parts. The fee to the Mofolem for his Company and 
 Souldiers upon this occafion is twelve Dollars for each 
 Frank Pilgrim, but if they be Ecclefiaflicks fix ; which 
 you mutt pay, whether you are difpos'd to go the Jour- 
 ney or ttay in the City. We went out at St. Stephens 
 Gate, being in all of every Nation and Sex about two 
 thoufand Pilgrims. Having crofs'd the Valley of Jeho- 
 Japhat and part of Mount Olivet^ we came in half an hour 
 to Bethany : at prelent only a fmall Village. At the firft 
 entrance into it is an old ruin, which they call Lazarus s 
 Cattle, fuppofed to have been the Manfion Houfe of that 
 
 favourite 
 
78 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 favourite of our Lord. At the bottom of a fmall defcenr, 
 not far from the Caftlc, is fhewn the Sepulcher out of 
 which he was rais'd to a fecond Mortality, by that en- 
 livening voice of Chrift, Lazarus come forth. You de- 
 scend into the Sepulcher by twenty five ltaep {fairs, at the 
 bottom of which you arrive firft in a fmall fquare Room, 
 and from thence you creep down into another Icflcr Room 
 about a yard and a half deeper, in which the Body is faid 
 to have been laid. This place is held in great veneration 
 by the Turks, who ufe it for an Oratory, and demand of 
 all Chriftians a fmall Caphar for their admiifion into it. 
 
 About a bow fhot from hence you pafs by the place 
 which, they fay, was Mary Magdalen* Habitation, and 
 then defending a fleep Hill, you come to the Fountain 
 of the Apojiles ; fo call'd becaufe, as the tradition goes, 
 thofe holy perfons were wont to refrefh themfeives here 
 in their frequent Travels between Jerufalem and Jericho. 
 And indeed it is a thing very probable, and no more than 
 I believe is done by all that Travel this way : the Foun- 
 tain being clofe by the Road fide, and very inviting to 
 the thirfly paflenger. 
 
 From th.s place you proceed in an intricate way amongfl 
 Hills and Valleys interchangeably ; all of a very barren 
 afpecT; at prefent, but difcovering evident figns of the la- 
 bour of the husband-man in ancient times. After fome 
 hours Travel in this fort of Road, yon arrive at the Moun- 
 tainous Defart into which our Bleded Saviour was ]ed by 
 the Spirit, to be tempted by the Devil. A moffc miferable 
 dry barren place it is, confiding of high Rocky Moun- 
 tains, fo torn and diforder'd, as if the Earth had here fuf- 
 fer'd fbme great convulfion, in which it's very bowels had 
 been turn'd outward. On the left hand looking down in 
 a deep Valley, as we palled along, we faw fbme ruins of 
 fmall Cells and Cottages : which they told us were forrner- 
 iy the Habitations of Hermits retiring hither for Penance 
 and Mortification. And certainly there could not be found 
 in the whole Earth a more comfortlefs and abandon'd place, 
 lor that purpofe : from the top of thefe Hills of ddolation 
 
 we 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 79 
 
 we had however a delightful profpeci ot the Mountains 
 of Arabia, the dead Sea and the Plain of Jericho-, into 
 which laft place wedefcended after about rive hours March 
 from Jerufalem. As foon as we enter 'd the Plain, we 
 turn'd up on the left hand, and going about one hour that 
 way, came to the foot of the Quarantania, which, they 
 lay, is the Mountain into which the Devil took our Blefc 
 fed Saviour, when he tempted him with that vifionary 
 fcene of all the Kingdomes, and glorys of" the World. It 
 is as St. tSWatthew ityles it an exceeding high Mountain, 
 and in it's a (cent not only difficult, but dangerous, it has 
 a finall Chapel at the top, and another about halfway up, 
 Founded upon a Prominent part of the Rock ; near this 
 latter are feveral Caves arid holes in the fide of the Moun- 
 tain, made ufe of" anciently by Hermits, and by fome at 
 this day, for places to keep their Lent in ; in imitation ot* 
 that of our Blcilcd Saviour. In moft of thefe Grots we 
 found certain Arabs Quarter'd with Fire- Arms, who ob- 
 ftru&ed our afcent, demanding two hundred Dollars for 
 leave to go up the Mountains. So we departed without 
 farther trouble, not a little glad to have fo good an ex- 
 cufe for not climbing ib dangerous a Precipice. 
 
 Turning down from hence into the Plain, wc pafs'd by 
 a ruin'd Aqueduct, and a Convent in the fame condition, 
 and in about a miles riding came to the Fountain of Eltjha : 
 io called becaufe miraculoufly purg'd from it's brackifh- 
 nefs by that Prophet, at therequeit of the men oi Jericho. 
 2 Kings 1. 19. It's waters are at prefent receiv'd in a ba~ 
 fin, about nine or ten paces long, and rive or fix broad: 
 and from thence iifiung out in good plenty, divide them- 
 felves into feveral fmall flreams, difperfing their refrefh- 
 ment to all the Field, between this and Jericho, and 
 rendring it exceeding fruitful. Clofe by the Fountain 
 grows a large Tree fpreading into boughs over the water, 
 and here in the fhade we took a Collation, with the Fa- 
 ther Guardian and about thirty or forty Fryars more, who 
 went this Journey with us. 
 
 At about one third of an hours diftance from hence is 
 
 Jericho, 
 
So A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 Jericho, at prefent only a poor natty Village of the Arabs. 
 We were here carried to fee a place where Zaccheus's 
 Houfe is faid to have flood, which is only an old fquare 
 ftone building, on the South fide of Jericho. About two 
 furlongs from hence the Mofblem, with his people had en- 
 camp'd, and not far from them we took up our Quarters 
 this night. 
 
 Tuejday Mar. 30. 
 
 The next morning we fet out very early for Jordan, 
 where we arrived in two hours. We found the Plain very 
 barren as we pafs'd along it, producing nothing but a kind 
 of Samphire, and other fuch marine Plants. I obferv'd in 
 many places of the Road, where puddles of water had 
 itood, a whitenefs upon the furface of the ground : which, 
 upon tryal, I found to be acrufl of Salt caus'd by the wa- 
 ter to rife out of the Earth, in the fame manner as it does 
 every year in the Valley of Salt near Alefyo, after the 
 Winters inundation. Thefe Saline efflorefcencys I found 
 at fome leagues diftance from the dead Sea, which demon- 
 itrates that the whole Valley mult be all over plentifully 
 impregnated with that Mineral. 
 
 Within about a furlong of the River, at that place 
 where we vilited it, there was an old ruin'd Church, and 
 Convent, dedicated to St. John, in memory of the Baptizing 
 of our Bleiled Lord. It is Founded as near as could be 
 conjecture! to the very place where he had the honour 
 to perform that facred office, and to wafh him, who was 
 infinitly purer than the water it ielf. On the farther fide 
 of the foremention'd Convent there runs along a fmall de- 
 fcent, which you may fitly call the firft, and outermoft 
 bank of Jordan, as far as which it may be fuppos'd the 
 River does, or at leaft did anciently, overflow, at fbme 
 ieafons of the year. viz. At the time of H&Tvdl.Jo/b 3.1 y. 
 or as it is exprels'd Chro. 12. 1 j. in the firft Month, that 
 is in March. But at prefent ( whether it be becaufe the 
 River has by it's rapidity of current worn it's Channel 
 deeper than it was formerly, or whether becaufe it's waters 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 8 1 
 are diverted fbme other way ) it feems to have forgot it's 
 ancient greatnefs; for we could difcern no fign or pro- 
 bability of inch overflowings, when we were there: 
 which was the thirtieth of March; being the proper time 
 for thefe inundations. Nay fo far was the River from 
 overflowing, that it ran at lead three yards below the 
 brink of it's Channel. 
 
 After having defcended the outermofr. bank, you go 
 about a furlong upon a level ftrand, before you come to 
 the immediate bank of the River. This fecond bank is 
 fo befet with Bufhes, and Trees, fuch as Tamarisk, Wil- 
 lows, Oleanders, &c that you can fee no water till you 
 have made your way thro' them. In this thicket anciently 
 (and the fame is reported of it at this day ) feveral forts 
 of wild Beafts were wont to harbour themfelves. Whole 
 being warned out of their Covert by the overflowings of 
 the River, gave occafion to that allufion, Jer. 49. 19. and 
 50 44. he Jh a II come up like a lion from the j welling of 
 Jordan. 
 
 No fooner were we arrived at the River, and difmount- 
 ed, in order to fatisfy that curiofity and devotion, which 
 brought us thither, but we were alarm'd by fbme Troops 
 of Arabs appearing on the other fide, and firing at us : 
 but at too great a diftance to do any execution. This in- 
 tervening difturbance hindred the Fryars from perform- 
 ing their fervice prefcribed for this place ; and feem'd to 
 put them in a terrible fear of their lives, beyond what ap- 
 pear'd in the reft of the Company. Tho' confidering the 
 fordidnefs of their prefent condition, and the extraordi- 
 nary rewards, which they boaft to be their due in the 
 world to come, one would think in reafbn, they of all 
 men fhould have the lead caufe to difcover fb great a fear 
 of death, and fb much fbndnefs of a life like theirs. 
 
 But this Alarm was fbon over, and every one return'd 
 to his former purpofe, fome ltrip'd and bath'd themfelves 
 in the River; others cut down boughs from the Trees; 
 every man was imploy'd one way or other to take a me- 
 morial of this famous ftream : the water was very turbid, 
 
 L and 
 
82 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 and too rapid to be fvvam againft. For it's breadth it 
 might be about twenty yards over ; and in depth .it far 
 exceeded my height. On the other fide there feem'd to be 
 a much larger thicket than on that where we were, but 
 we diult not fwim over, to take any certain account of 
 that Region for fear of the Arabs : there being three Guns 
 fired jnit over againft us, and (as we might guefs by their 
 reports ) very near the River. 
 
 Having fimlhed our defign here, we were fummond 
 to return by the Mofolem ; who carried us back into the 
 middle of the Plain, and there fitting under his Tent, 
 made us pais before him, man by man; to the end he 
 might take the more exacl account of us, and looie nothing 
 of his Caphar. We feem'd at this place to be near the 
 de:\d Sea, and fome of us had a great delire to go nearer, 
 and take a view of thole prodigious waters. But this could 
 not be attempted, without the Licence of our Commander 
 in chief We therefore fent to requeft his permiilion for 
 our going, and a guard to attend us : both which he rea- 
 dily granted, and we immediatly profecuted our purpofe. 
 
 Coming within about half an hour of the Sea, we found 
 the ground uneven, and varied into hillocks ; much re- 
 sembling thole places in England where there have been 
 anciently Lime-kilns. Whether thefe might be the Pits at 
 which the Kings of Sodom and Gomorrah were overthrown 
 by the four Kings, Gen. 14. 10. I will not determine. 
 
 Coming near the Sea we pafs'd thro' a kind of Coppice, 
 of Bufhes and Reeds. In the midfl of which our Guide, 
 who was an Arab ihew'd us a Fountain of frefh water, 
 riling not above a furlong from the Sea. Frefh water he 
 call'd it, but we found it brackifh. 
 
 The dead Sea is enclos'd on the Eaft, and Weft with 
 exceeding high Mountains ; on the North it is bounded 
 with the Plain of Jericho, on which fide alio it receives 
 the waters of Jordan. On the South it is open, and ex- 
 tends beyond the reach of the eye. It is faid to be twenty 
 four leagues long, and fix or feven broad. 
 
 On the fhore of the Lake we found a black fort of 
 
 ptb- 
 
A fourney from Aleppo to Jerujalem. 8 3 
 
 pebbles which being held in the flame of a candle foon 
 burns, and yields a Imoake of an intolerable (tench. It has 
 this property, that it loofes only of it's weight, but not 
 of it's bulk by burning. The Hills bordering upon the 
 Lake, are faid to abound with this fort of Sulphureous 
 f tones. I faw pieces of it, at the Convent ot'St.Jo/m in 
 the Wildernefs two foot fquare. They were carved in 
 Ballb relievo, and polifh'd to as great a luftre as black 
 Marble is capable of, and were delign'd for the ornament 
 of the new Church at the Convent. 
 
 It is a common tradition, that birds, attempting to fly 
 over this Sea, drop down dead into it; and that no fifh 
 nor other fort of animal can endure thefe deadly waters. 
 The former report I faw actually confuted, by leveral 
 birds flying about, and Over the Sea, without any vifible 
 harm : the latter alfo I have fome reafbn to fufpeel as fa lie, 
 having obferv'd among! t the pebbles on the fhore, two or 
 three fhells of filh reiembling Oyffcer-fhells. Thefe were 
 cafr. up by the waves, at two hours diftance from the 
 mouth of Jordan : which I mention, leaft it fhould be 
 fufpected that they might be brought into the Sea that 
 way. 
 
 As for the Bitumen, for which this Sea hath been !b 
 famous, there was none at the place where we were. But 
 it is gather'd near the Mountains on both fides in great 
 plenty. I had leveral lumps of it brought me to Jeruja- 
 lem. It exactly refembles pitch, and cannot readily be 
 diftinguifli'd from it, but by the Sulphureoufnels of it's 
 fmell, and taft. 
 
 The water of the Lake was very limpid, and fait to the 
 highefl degree, and not only fait, but alio extream bitter, 
 and naufeous. Being willing to make an experiment of 
 it's ftrength, I went into it, and found it bore up my body 
 in iwimming with an uncommon force. But as for that 
 relation of fome Authors, that men wading into it, were 
 buoyed up to the top, as foon as they go as deep as the 
 navel ; I found it, upon experiment, not true, 
 
 Being defirous to fee the remains ( if there were any ) 
 
 L 2 of 
 
84 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 
 of thofc Citys, anciently fituate in this place, and made 
 fo dreadful an example of the divine vengeance, I dili- 
 gently liirvey'd the waters, as far as my eye could reach. 
 But neither could I difcern any heaps of rums, nor any 
 fmoake afcending above the furface of the w ater, as is 
 ufually defenbed in the writings and maps of Geographers. 
 But yet I mull: not omit what was confidently aueited to 
 me by the Father Guardian, and Procurator of Jernfahn ; 
 both men m years, and feemingly not deflitute either or 
 fence or probity : viz. that they had once actually feen 
 one of thefe ruins ; that it was lb near the (hore, and the 
 waters fo (hallow, at that time, that they together^ with 
 fbme French Men, went to it, and found there feveral 
 Pillars, and other fragments of buildings. The caufe of 
 our being depriv'd of this fight was, I iuppol'e the height 
 of the water. 
 
 On the Weft fide of the Sea is a fmall Promontory, near 
 which, as our Guides told us, flood the Monument of 
 Lots Metamorphos'd wife : part of which (if they may be 
 credited ) is vifible at this day. But neither would the 
 prefent occafion permit us to go and examine the truth of 
 this relation, neither, had the opportunity ferv'd, could 
 Ave give faith enough to their report, to induce us to go 
 on inch an errand. 
 
 As for the Apples of Sodom fo much talk'd or, I nei- 
 ther law, nor heard of any hereabouts. Nor was there 
 any Tree to be feen near the Lake, from which one might 
 expe& fiich a kind of Fruit. * Which induces me to be- 
 lieve that there may be a greater deceit m this Fruit, than 
 that which is ufually reported of it, and that it's very be- 
 ing, as well as it's beauty is a fiction, only kept up, as my 
 Lord Bacon obferves many other falfe notions are, becaufe 
 it ferves for a good allufion, and helps the Poets to a fi- 
 milt tude. 
 
 In our return from the dead Sea, at about one hours 
 diftance from it, we came to an old ruin'd Greek Convent. 
 There was good part of the Church remaining, with 
 
 * Txcit. Hijl Ub. f, Jojeph. Bell. J»d. Lib. 5- C«/>. J. 
 
 feveral 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 8 f 
 
 ieveral pieces of painting entire : as the figures of feveral 
 Greek Saints, and over the Altar the repreientation of 
 our Lord's laft fupper, with this text of holy writ fairly 
 infcnbed. A&Gm y&ym &c. Hereabout, and alfo in many- 
 other places of the Plain, I perceiv'd a ftrong lent of Ho- 
 ney, and Wax, ( the Sun being very hot ) and the Bees 
 were very induftnous about the blofloms of that fait weed 
 which the Plain produces. In about one hour and a half 
 more we returned to our Tents, and Company, at the 
 fame place where we flept the night before, and there we 
 fpent this night alfb. 
 
 Amongft the produces of this place, I few a very re- 
 markable Fruit call'd by the Arabs Zac-cho-ne. It grows 
 upon a thorny bufh, with fmall leaves, and both in fliape 
 and colour refembles a fmall unripe Wallnut. The ker- 
 nels of this Fruit the Arabs bray in a mortar, and then 
 putting the pulp into fcalding water, they skim off an 
 Oyl, which rifes to the top. This Oyl they take inward- 
 ly for bruifes, and apply it outwardly to green wounds, 
 preferring it before Balm of Gtkad. I procur'd a bottle 
 of it, and have found it, upon fome fmall tryals, a very 
 healing medicine- The Roles of Jericho were not to be 
 found at this feafon. 
 
 JVednefday Mar. \\, 
 
 This morning we all decamp'd at half an hour after two, 
 and returning the fame way by which we came, arriv'd 
 in about lix hours near the Walls oijerufakm. Our Com- 
 pany did not think fit to enter the City, refolving to go 
 immediatly for Bethlehem. In order to which, we turn'd 
 down, into the Valley of Jebofapbat^ and i'o pafling by 
 the City, inftantly took the Road to the place intended. 
 
 From Jerufakm to Bethlehem is but two hours Travel. 
 The Country thro' which the Road lies, is the Valley of 
 Rephaim : as may be gather'd from Jof.Ant. Lib. 4. Cap. 10. 
 A Valley fo famous for being the Theater of 'David % Vi- 
 ctories againifc the Thiliftines. 2, Sam. f. 25. In the Road 
 you meet with thefe following remarkable places. Firfl: a 
 
 place 
 
%<> A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 place faid to be the Houfe of Simeon, that venerable old 
 Prophet, who taking our Blelled Saviour in his Arms fling 
 his Nunc dimittis in the Temple. Secondly, the famous 
 Turpentine Tree, in the fhade of which the Blefled Vir- 
 gin is laid to have repos'd, when (he was carrying Chrifl 
 in her Arms, to prefent him to the Lord at Jerujakm. 
 Thirdly, a Convent Dedicated to St. Elms, the imprefs 
 of" whole Body, the Greek Monks refiding here pretend 
 to fhew in an hard ftone, which was wont to ferve him 
 for his Bed. Near this Convent alio is a Well where, you 
 are told it was that the Star reappear'd to the Eaftern Magi 
 to their exceeding joy. Fourthly, Rachels Tomb. This 
 may probably be the true place of her interment men- 
 tion'd Gen. $?. ip. but the prefent Sepulchral Monument 
 can be none of that which Jacob eredted ; for it appears 
 plainly to be a modern and Turkifh ftructure. Near this 
 Monument is a little piece of ground in which are pick'd 
 up a little fort of fmall round (tones exa&ly refembling 
 peafe : concerning which they have a tradition here, that 
 they were once truly what they now feem to be ; but that 
 the Blelled Virgin petrify 'd them by a Miracle, in punifh- 
 ment to a furly ruftick, who deny'd her the Charity of a 
 handful of them to relieve her hunger. 
 
 Being arriv'd at Bethlehem, we immediatly made a cir- 
 cular vifit to all the holy places belonging to it : as namely 
 the place where it is faid, our Blelled Lord was Born, the 
 Manger in which it is faid, he was laid : the Chapel of St. 
 Jofeph his fuppos'd Father, that of the Innocents, thofe 
 of St. Jcrom. of St. Paula and Eujiochmm, and of Eufebius 
 of Cremona, and laftly the School of St. jferom : all which 
 places it ihall fuffice juft to name. 
 
 From the top of the Church we had a large profpecT; of 
 the adjacent Country. The moll: remarkable places in 
 view were Tekoah fituate on the fide of an Hill about nine 
 miles diflant to the Southward, Engedi diftant about three 
 miles Eafhvard, and fomewhat farther off the fame way, 
 3. high {harp Hill, call'd the Mountain of the Franks: be- 
 caule defended by a party of the Crufaders forty years after 
 the lofs of Jerufalem. Thurjday 
 
A fourn^y from Aleppo tojerufalem. 87 
 
 Thwjday April 1. 
 
 This morning we went to fee fome remarkable places 
 in the neighbourhood of Bethlehem. Thefirft place that 
 we directed our courfe to was thofe famous Fountains, 
 Pools, and Gardens, about one hour and a quarter diftant 
 from Bethlehem Southward, faid to have been the con- 
 trivance and delight of King Solomon. To thefe works 
 and places of plea hire that great Prince is fuppos'd to al- 
 lude, Eccl. 2. 5,6. where amongft the other inftances of 
 his Magnificence, he reckons up his Gardens, and Vine- 
 yards and Pools. 
 
 As for the Pools they are three in number lying in a 
 row above each other : being lb difpos'd, that the waters 
 of the uppermof]; may defcend into the fecond, and thole 
 of the fecond into the third : their figure is quadrangular. 
 The breadth is the fame in all, amounting to about ninty 
 paces : in their length there is fome difference between 
 them : the firft being about one hundred and fixty paces 
 iong, the fecond two hundred, the third two hundred and 
 twenty : they are all lin'd with wall, and plaifter'd, and 
 contain a great depth of water. 
 
 Clofe by the Pools is a pleafant Cattle of a modern 
 ftructure, and at about the diflance of one hundred and 
 forty paces from them, is the Fountain from which prin- 
 cipally they derive their waters. This the Fryars will have 
 to be that feal'd Fountain, to which the holy Spoufe is 
 compar'd, Can. 4. 12. And, in confirmation of this opi- 
 nion, they pretend a tradition, that King So/omon fhut 
 up thefe lpnngs, and kept the door of them feal'd with 
 his Signet, to the end that he might preferve the waters 
 for his own drinking, in their natural frefhnefs, and pu- 
 rity. Nor was it difficult thus to fecure them, they riling 
 under ground, and having no avenue to them but by a 
 little hole like to the mouth of a narrow Well, thro' this 
 hole you defcend diredlly down, but not without fome 
 difficulty, for about four yards : and then arrive in a 
 vaulted Room, fifteen paces long, and eight broad : joyn- 
 
 ing 
 
S 8 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujakm. 
 
 ing to this ; is another Room of the fame fafhion, but 
 fomewhat Ids. Both thefe Rooms are cover'd with hand- 
 fome Hone Arches very ancient, and perhaps the work of 
 Solomon himfelf. 
 
 You find here four places, at which the water rifes : 
 from thofe feparate fources it is convey'd, by little rivu- 
 lets, into a kind of Bafin, and from thence is carried by 
 a large fubterraneous pallage down into the Pools. In the 
 way, before it arrives at the Pools, there is an aqueduct: 
 of brick pipes, which receives part of the ftream, and car- 
 rys it by many turnings, and windings about the Moun- 
 tains, to Jerufalem. 
 
 Below the Pools here runs down a narrow Rocky Val- 
 ley enclos'd on both fides with high Mountains. This the 
 Fryars will have to be the enclos'd Garden, alluded to in 
 the fame place of the Canttcks before cited. A garden en- 
 closed is my Jijler, myjpouje: a fpring /hut up, a fountain 
 Jealed. What truth there may be in this conjecture, I can- 
 not abfolutely pronounce. As to the Pools, it is probable 
 enough, they may be the fame with Solomons, there not 
 being the like ftore of exxeilent fpring water, to be met 
 with any where elfe, throughout all Pakjline. But for 
 the Gardens one may fafeiy affirm, that if Solomon made 
 them, in the Rocky ground which is now aflign'd for 
 them, he demonftrated greater power, and wealth, in fi- 
 nifhing his defign, than he did wifdom in choofing the 
 place for it. 
 
 From thefe memorials of Solomon, we returned toward 
 Bethlehem again, in order to vifit fome places nearer 
 home. The places we faw were ; the Field where it is 
 faid the fhepards were watching their flocks, when they 
 receiv'd the glad tidings of the Birth of Chrifl; and not 
 far from the Field, the Village where they dwelt, and a 
 little on the right hand of the Village an old defolate 
 Nunnery built by St. Tau/a, and made the more memorable 
 by her dying in it. Thefe places are all within about half 
 a mile of the Convent Eaflward, and with thefe we fi- 
 nifhed this mornings work. 
 
 Having 
 
A Journe y from Aleppo to Jerusalem. % 9 
 
 Having feen what is ufually vifited on the South, and 
 Ealt of Bethlehem, we walk'd out after dinner to the Welt- 
 ward to fee what was remarkable on that (ide. The hril 
 place we were guided to was the Well ok David, Co calfd 
 becaufe held to be the lame that 'David 10 pallionatly 
 thirfted alter, 2 Sam. 23. 15-. It is a Well, ( or rather a 
 Ciltem ) lupply'd only with Rain, without any natural 
 excellency in it's waters to make them defireable : but it 
 feems "David's Spirit had a farther aime. 
 
 About two furlongs beyond this Well, are to be feen 
 fome remains of au old Aqueduct, which anciently con- 
 vey 'd the waters from Solomons Pools to Jerufalem. 'i his 
 is laid to be the genuine work of Solomon, and may well 
 be allow'd to be in reality, what it is pretended for. It 
 is carried all along upon the furface of the ground, and is 
 compos'd of ltones • foot iquare and thick, per- 
 forated with a cavity of inches diameter, to make 
 
 the Channel. Thefe ftones are let into each other with a 
 fillet, fram'd round about the cavity, to prevent leakage ; 
 and united to each other, with lo firm a cement, that 
 they will fbmetimes fboner break (tho' a kind of courfe 
 Marble) than endure a feparation. This train of ftones 
 was cover'd for it's greater fecurity with a cafe of fmaller 
 ftones, laid over it in a very flrong Mortar. The whole 
 work feems to be endued with fucn abfblute firmnefs, as 
 if it had been defign'd for Eternity. But the Turks have 
 demonftrated in this inftance, that nothing can be fo well 
 wrought, but they are able to deflroy it. For of this flrong 
 Aqueduct, which was carried formerly five or fix leagues 
 with fb vaft expence and labour, you fee now only here 
 and there a fragment remaining. 
 
 Returning from this place we went to fee the Greek, 
 and Armenian Convents ; which are contiguous to that ot 
 the Latins, and have each their feveral doors opening in- 
 to the Chapel of the holy Manger. The next place we 
 went to fee was the Grot of the Blefled Virgin, it is within 
 thirty or forty yards of the Convent, and is reverenced 
 upon the account of a tradition that the Blefled Virgin 
 
 M here 
 
9 o A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 here hid her (elf, and her divine Babe from the fury of 
 Herod) for fbme time before their departure into Egypt. 
 The Grot is hollow'd into a chalky Rock : but this white- 
 nefs they will have to be not natural, but to have been 
 occafion'd by fbme miraculous drops of the Blefled Virgin's 
 milk, which fell from her Breaft while flie was fuckling 
 the holy Infant. And io much are they podeli with this 
 opinion, that they believe the chalk of this Grotto has a 
 miraculous virtue for encreafing women's milk. And I 
 was adur'd from many hands, that it is very frequently 
 taken bv the women hereabouts, as well Turks, and Arabs 
 as Chnffcians for that purpofe, and that with very good 
 effect ; which perhaps may be true enough, it being well 
 known how much Fancy is wont to do in things of this 
 nature. 
 
 Friday April i. 
 
 The next morning prefenting the Guardian with two 
 Chequeens a piece for his civilities to us, we took our 
 leaves ok Bethlehem defigning juft to go vifit die Wilder- 
 nefs, and Convent of Si.John Bapttft, and io to return to 
 'Jerufalem. 
 
 In this flage we rirft crofs'd part of that famous Valley, 
 in which it is faid that the Angel in one night did fuch 
 prodigious execution in the Army of Senacherib. Having 
 Travell'd about half an hour, we came to a Village call'd 
 Bootejhellah : concerning which they relare this remarka- 
 ble property, that no Turk can live in it above two years. 
 By virtue of this report, whether true or falfe, the Chri- 
 fhans keep the Village to themfeives without moleflation ; 
 no Turk being willing to (take his life in experimenting 
 the truth of it. In fomewhat leis than an hour more we 
 came to the Fountain, where they told us, but falily, that 
 "Philip Baptized the Ethiopian Eunuch. The paflage here 
 is fo Rocky and uneven, that Pilgrims finding how diffi- 
 cult the Road is for a fingle horfeman, are ready to think 
 it impoflible that a Chariot ( fuch as the Eunuch rode in 
 sifts 8. 28. ) fnonld ever have been able to go this way. 
 
 Bur 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 9 1 
 
 But it mull not be judged what the Road was in ancient 
 tunes, by what the negligence of the Turks has now re- 
 duced it to : for I obierv'd not far from the Fountain, a 
 place where the Rock had been cutaway in old time, in 
 order to lay open a good Road ; by which it may be fup- 
 pos'd that the fame care was ufed all along this paflage, 
 tho' now time and negligence have obliterated, both the 
 fruit, and almofr. the ligns of fuch labour. 
 
 A little beyond this Fountain we came to that which 
 they call the Village of St. Philip, at which amending a 
 very fteep Hill, we arrived at the Wildernefs of St. John. 
 A Wildernefs it is call'd, as being very Rocky and Moun- 
 tainous: but it is well cultivated, and produces plenty of 
 Corn, and Vines and Olive Trees. After a good hours 
 Travel in this Wildernefs, we came to the Cave, and 
 Fountain, where, as they fay, the Baptift exercis'd thole 
 levere auffceritys related of him. Mat. 3.4. Near this Cell 
 there f till grow fome old Locuft Trees, the Monuments 
 of the Ignorance of the middle times. Thefe the Fryars 
 aver to be the very fame that yielded fuftcnance to the 
 Baptijl: and the Popilh Pilgrims who dare not be wiier 
 than fuch blind guides, gather the fruit of them, and carry 
 it away with great devotion. 
 
 Having done with this place, we directed our courfe 
 toward the Convent of Si. John, which is about a league 
 diftant Eaftward. In our way we pafs'd along one fide 
 of the Valley of Elah where 'David flew the Giant, that 
 defytr of the Army of ffrael, 1 Sam. 17. We had like- 
 wife, in fight tStfodon, a Village on the top of a high Hill, 
 the burying place of thoic Heroical Defenders of their 
 Country the Maccabees. 
 
 Being come near the Convent we were led a little out 
 of the way, to vifit a place which they call the Houfe of 
 Elizabeth the Mother of the Baptijl. This was formerly 
 a Convent alio; ljut it is now an heap of ruins, and the 
 only remarkable place left in it is a Grotto, in which (you 
 arc told ) it was, that the Blelfed Virgin faluted Elizabeth, 
 and pronoune'd her divine Magnificat. Luke 1.46. 
 
 M 1 The 
 
92 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 The prelent Convent of St. jfa/w, which is now Inha- 
 bited, ftands at about three furlongs diitance from this 
 Houie of Elizabeth, and is fuppos'd to be built at the place 
 where St. John was Born. If you chance to ask, how it 
 came to pais, that Elizabeth liv'd in one Houie, when (he 
 was big with the Bapt//i, and in another when ftie brought 
 him forth ? The anfwer, you are like to receive, is, that 
 the former was her Country, the latter her City Habita- 
 tion, and that it is no wonder for a wife of one of the 
 Priefts of better rank ( fuch as (he was Luke 1.6.) to be 
 provided with fuch variety. 
 
 The Convent of St. John has been within thefe four 
 years rebuilt from the ground. It is at prefent a large 
 fquare building, uniform and neat all over ; but that which 
 is moft eminently beautiful in it is it's Church. It confilts 
 of three Ifles, and has 111 the middle an handfome Cupola, 
 under which is a pavement of Mofaick, equal to, it not 
 exceeding the fineit works of the Ancients in that kind. 
 At the upper end of the North Ifle, you go down feven 
 Marble iteps, to a very fplendid Altar, erected over the 
 very place where they lay the holy Ihptijl was Born. 
 Here are Artificers ftill employ 'd, in adding farther beauty 
 and ornament to this Convent ; and yet it has been fo ex- 
 penfive a work already, that the Fryars themfelves give 
 out, there is not a ftone laid in it but has coll them a 
 Dollar : which, coniidering the large fums exacted by the 
 Turks for Licence to begin Fabricks of this nature, and 
 alio their perpetual extortion, and avarria's afterwards, 
 befides the neceflary charge of building, may be allow'd 
 to pafs for no extravagant Hyperbole. 
 
 Returning from St. Johns toward Jerufalem, we came 
 in about three quarters of an hour to a Convent of the 
 Greeks, taking it's name from the holy Crofs. This Con- 
 vent is very neat in it's ftruclure, and in it's fituation de- 
 lightful. But that which molt deferves to be noted in, it, 
 is the reafon of it's name, and foundation. It is becaufe 
 here is the Earth, that nourifh'd the Root, that bore the 
 Tree, that yielded the Timber that made the Crofs. Under 
 
 the 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem, 9 3 
 
 the high Altar you are (hewn a hole in the ground where 
 the f tump of the Tree ltood, and it meets with not a few 
 viikants (b much verier flocks than it felf, as to fall down 
 and Worfliip it. This Convent, is not above half an hour 
 from Jerufalem, to which place we return'd this evening, 
 being the fifth day fince our departure thence. 
 
 After our return, we were invited into the Convent, 
 to have our feet wafh'd. A ceremony perfbrm'd to each 
 Pilgrim by the Father Guardian himfelf The whole fo- 
 ciery frauds round iinging fbme Latin Hymns, all the 
 while the Father Guardian is doing his office: and when 
 he has done, every Fryar comes in order, and killes the 
 feet of the Pilgrim : all this was perfbrm'd with great or- 
 der, and iblemnity; and if it ferv'd either to teftifie a 
 iincere humility and charity in them, or to improve thofe 
 excellent graces in others, it might pals for no unufeful 
 ceremony. 
 
 Saturday April 3. 
 
 We went about midday to fee the function of the Holy 
 Fire. This is a ceremony kept up by the Greeks, and Ar- 
 menians, upon a perfwalion, that every Eaffer Eve, there 
 is a Miraculous Flame, defcends from Heaven into the 
 holy Sepulcher, and kindles all the Lamps and Candles 
 there, as the Sacrifice was burnt at the prayers oft Elijah. 
 1 Kings 18. 
 
 Coming to the Church of the holy Sepulcher, we found 
 it crowded with a numerous and diffracted Mob, making 
 a hideous clamour very unfit for that facred place, and 
 better becoming Bacchanals than Chrifhans. Getting with 
 fome ftruggle thro' this crowd, we went up into the Gal- 
 lery on that fide of the Church next the Latin Convent : 
 whence we could difcern all that pafs'd in this religious 
 frenzy. 
 
 They began their diforders by running round the holy 
 Sepulcher with all their might and fwiftnefs, crying out 
 as they went, Huia, which fignifies this is he, or this is 
 it: an exprellion by which they aflert the verity of the 
 
 Chnftian 
 
94 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 Chriftian Religion. Alter they had by thefe vertiginous 
 circulations and clamours turn'd their heads, and inflam'd 
 their madnefs, they began to acl: the moll antick tricks, 
 and pof lures, in a thou land Ilia pes of diffraction. Some- 
 times they drag'd one another along the floor all round 
 the Sepulcher ; fometimes they fet one man upright on 
 another's ihoulders, and m this poflure march'd round ; 
 fometimes they took men with their heels upward, and 
 hurry 'd them about in fuch an undecent manner as to ex- 
 pofe their Nuditys; fometimes they tumbled round the 
 Sepulcher, after the manner of tumblers on the ftage : in 
 a word, nothing can be imagin'd more rude or extravagant 
 than what was acled upon this occalion. 
 
 In this tumultuous frantick humour they continued 
 from twelve till four of the Clock, the reaibn of which 
 delay was, becaufe of a Suit that was then in debate before 
 the Cadi betwixt the Greeks and Armenians. The former 
 endeavouring to exclude the latter from having any fhare 
 in this Miracle. Both parties having expended (as I was 
 inform'd ) five thoufand Dollars between them. In this 
 foolilh Controverfy, the Cadi at lafl: gave fentence ; that 
 they fhould enter the holy Sepulcher together, as had been 
 ufual at former times. Sentence being thus given, at four 
 of the Clock both Nations went on with their ceremony. 
 The Greeks firit fet out, in a proceflion round the holy 
 Sepulcher, and immediatly at their heels follow'd the Ar- 
 menians. In this order they corapafs'd the holy Sepulcher 
 thrice, having produc'd all their Gallantry of Standards, 
 Streamers, Crucifixes, and Embroider'd Habits upon this 
 occafion. 
 
 Toward the end of this proceflion, there was a Pigeon 
 came fluttering into the Cupola over the Sepulcher ; at 
 fight of which, there was a greater fhout and clamour than 
 before. This Bird, the Latins told us was purpofely let 
 fly by the Greeks, to deceive the people into an opinion 
 that it was a vitible defcent of the holy Ghoff.. 
 
 The p» oceflion being over, the Suffragan of the Greek 
 Patriarch ( he being himfelf at Conftantinople ) and the 
 
 Prin- 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 9 $ 
 
 Principal Armenian Bifhop approach'd to the door of the 
 Sepulcher, and cutting the firing with which it was faftned 
 and feal'd, enter'd in ; all the Candles and Lamps within 
 having been before extinguilh'd, in the pretence of the 
 Turks, and other witneflcs. The exclamations were 
 doubled, as the Miracle drew nearer to it's accomplmV 
 ment, and the people prels'd with fuch vehemence toward 
 the door of the Sepulcher, that it was not in the power of 
 the Turks, let to guard it, with the levereffc drubs to keep 
 them off The caufe of their preiling in this manner, is 
 the great delire they have, to light their Candles at the 
 holy Flame, as fbon as it is ririt brought out of the Se- 
 pulcher : it being elteem'd the molt lacred and pure, as 
 coming immediatiy from Heaven. 
 
 The two Miracle Mongers had not been above a minute 
 in the holy Sepulcher, when the glimmering of the holy 
 Fire was feen, or imagined to appear, thro' fome chinks 
 of the door, and certainly Bedlam it ielf never faw fuch 
 an unruly tranfport, as was produe'd in the Mob at this 
 light. 
 
 Immediatiy after out came the two Priefts, with blazing 
 Torches in their hands, which they held up at the door 
 of the Sepulcher, while the people throng'd about with 
 mexprellible ardour : every one ftriving to obtain a part 
 of the firlt, and purelt Flame. The Turks in the mean 
 time, with huge Club;, laid them on without mercy : but 
 all this could not repel them, the excels of their tranfport 
 making them infenfible of pain. Thofe that got the Fire 
 applied it immediatiy to their Beards, Faces, and Bofoms, 
 pretending that it would not burn like an Earthly Flame. 
 But I plainly law none of them could endure this experi- 
 ment long enough to make good that pretention. 
 
 So many hands being employ'd, you may be fure, it 
 could not belong before innumerable Tapers were lighted. 
 The whole Church, Gallerys, and every place feem'd m- 
 itantly to be in a Flame, and with this Illumination the 
 ceremony ended. 
 
 It mult be own'd that thofe two within the Sepulcher, 
 
 perforra'd 
 
9 6 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujakm. 
 
 perform'd their part with great quicknefs, and dexterity. 
 But the behaviour of the Rabble, without very much 
 difcredited the Miracle. The Latins take a great deal of 
 pains to expofe this ceremony ; as a molt ihameful im- 
 poiture, and a fcandal to the Chriitian Religion : perhaps 
 out of envy that others lhould be matters of fo gainful a 
 bufinefs. But the Greeks and Armenians pin their Faith 
 upon it, and make their Pilgrimages chiefly upon this mo- 
 tive, and 'tis the deplorable unhappinels of their Pridts, 
 that having adted the cheat (6 long already, they are 
 fore'd now to ftand to it, for fear of endangering the Apo- 
 ifcacy of their people. 
 
 Going out of the Church, after the rout was over, we 
 law feveral people gather'd about the ftone of Unction : 
 who having got a good ftore of Candles, lighted with the 
 holy Fire, were employ 'd in dawbing pieces of Linnen 
 with the wicks of them and the melting wax, which pieces 
 of Linnen were defign'd for Winding iheets: and 'tis the 
 opinion ofthefe poor people, that if they can but have 
 the happynefs, to be buried in a fhroud fmutted with this 
 Celeftial Fire, it will certainly fecure them from the 
 Flames of Hell. 
 
 Sunday April 4. 
 
 This day being our Eafler, we did not go abroad to 
 vilit any places, the time requiring an employment of an- 
 other nature. 
 
 Monday April j\ 
 
 This morning we went to fee fbme more of the Curio- 
 fities which had been yet unvilited by us. The firlt place 
 we came to that which they call St. Peters Prifbn, from 
 which he was deliver'd by the Angel, Af/s iz. It is dole 
 by the Church of the holy Sepulcher, and Ihl! iervesfor 
 it's Primitive life. About the fpace of a furlong from 
 thence we came to an old Church, held to have been built 
 by Helena , in the place where ftood the Houfe of 'Lebedee. 
 This is in the hands of the Greeks, who tell you, that j 
 
 * Z<ebedee I 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem . 9 7 
 
 Zebedee being a iiiherman was wont to bring rifli from 
 J^/w hither, and to vend it at this place. Not far from 
 hence we came to the place where they fay flood anciently 
 the Iron Gate, which open'd to Ttter of it's own accord. 
 A few fleps farther is the fmall Church built over the 
 Houfe ofMarkj to which the Apoftk dire&cd his courfe, 
 after his miraculous Goal delivery. The Syrians ( who 
 have this place in their cuflody) pretend to mew you the 
 very window at which Rhoda look'd out, while Tetcr 
 knock'd at the door. In the Church they fliew a Syriack 
 Manufcript, of the new Teftament in Folio pretended to 
 be eight hundred and fifty two years old, and a little flone 
 Font ufed by the Apoftks themfelves in baptizing. About 
 one hundred and fifty paces farther in the fame ftreet is 
 that which they call the Houfe of St. Thomas, converted 
 formerly into a Church, but now a Mofque. Not many 
 paces farther is another ftreet eroding the former, which 
 leads you on the right hand to the place, where they fay 
 our Lord appear'd, after his Refurredtion, to the three 
 Marys, Mat. 28. 9. Three Marys the Fryars tell you, 
 tho' in that place of St. tSMatthew mention is made but of 
 two. The lame flreet carries you on the left hand to the 
 Armenian Convent. The Armenians have here a very 
 large and delightful fpace of ground : their Convent, and 
 Gardens taking up all that part of Mount Sion, which is 
 within the Walls of the City. Their Church is built over 
 the place, where they fay St. "James the Brother o^.John 
 was Beheaded. ASis 12. 2. In a fmall Chapel on the North 
 fide of the Church is {hewn the very place of his decolla- 
 tion. In this Church are two Altars fet out with extraor- 
 dinary fplendour, being deck'd with rich Miters, Em- 
 broider'd Copes, Crofles both Silver and Gold, Crowns, 
 Chalices, and other Church Utenlils without number. In 
 the middle of the Church is a Pulpit made of Tortoife-fhell, 
 and Mother of Pearl, with a beautiful Canopy, or Cu- 
 pola over it, of the fame Fabrick. The Tortoife-fhell and 
 Mother of Pearl are lb exquifitly mingled, and inlaid in 
 each other, that the work tar exceeds the materials. In a 
 
 N kind 
 
9 8 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 
 kind of Anti-Chapel to this Church, there are laid up on 
 one Tide of an Altar three large rough {tones, efteem'd 
 very pretious : as being one or them the (tone upon which 
 Mofes calt the two Tables, when he broke them, in In- 
 dignation, at the Idolatry ol the IJraelites : the other two 
 being brought, one from the place of our Lord's Baptifm, 
 the other from that of his Transfiguration. 
 
 Leaving this Convent, we went a little farther to an- 
 other fmall Church which was like wife in the hands of 
 the Armenians. This is fuppos'd to be Founded in the 
 place where Annas\ Houfe Itood. Wnhin thr Church 
 not far from the door, is fhewn a hole in the Wall, de- 
 noting the place, where one of the Officers of the high 
 Prieft, fmote our Blelled Saviour. John 18. 22. The Offi- 
 cer, by whofe impious hand thac buffet was given, the 
 Fryars will have to be the lame Malchus, whole ear, our 
 Lord had heal'd. In the Court before this Chapel is an 
 Olive Tree, of which it is reported, thatChrift was chain'd 
 to it for fome time by order of Annas to fecure him from 
 cfcaping. 
 
 From the Houfe of Annas we were conducted out of 
 Sion Gate which is near adjoyning to that which they call 
 the Houfe oiCajaphas ; where is another fmall Chapel be- 
 longing aifo to the Armenians. Hereunder the Altar they 
 tell us is depofited that very ffone which was laid to fe- 
 cure the door of our Saviour's Sepulcher. Mat. 17- 60. It 
 was a long time kept in the Church of the Sepulcher ; but 
 the Armenians not many years fince, ftole it from thence 
 by a ftratagem, and convey a it to this place. The ftone 
 is two yards and a quarter long, high one yard, and broad 
 as much. It is plaifter'd all over, except in five or fix lit- 
 tle places where it is left bare, to receive the immediate 
 killes, and other devotions of Pilgrims. Here is like wife 
 fhewn a little Cell faid to have been our Lord's Pnion till 
 the morning, when he was carryed from hence before ?/- 
 Lite, and alio the place where Teter was frighted into a 
 denial of his Mafter. 
 
 A little farther without the Gate is the Church of the 
 
 Ccena- 
 
A Journey from Aleppo tojerufalem. 99 
 
 Ccenaculum : where they fay Chrift inf tinned his laft Sup- 
 per. It is now a Mofque, and not to be feen by Chriilians. 
 Near this is a Wei], which is faid to mark out the place 
 at which the Apoflles divided from each other, in order 
 to go every man to his feverai Charge, and clofe by the 
 Well are the ruins of a Houfe in which the Blefled Virgin 
 is fuppos'd to have breath'd her Ja(t. Going Eaflward a 
 little way down the Hill, we were (hewn the place where 
 a Jew arretted the Corps of the Blelled Virgin as flie was 
 carry'd to her Interment; for which impious prefumtion, 
 he had his hand wither'd wherewith he had feiz'd the Bier. 
 About as much lower in the middle of the Hill, they (hew 
 you the Grot, in which St. c Peter wept lb bitterly for his 
 inconflancy to his Lord. 
 
 We extended our Circuit no farther at this time: but 
 enter'd the City again at Sion Gate. Turning down as 
 foon as we had enter'd on the right hand, and going about 
 two furlongs clofe by the City Wall, we were had into a 
 Garden, lying at the foot of Mount Mortal), on the South 
 fide. Here wc were fhewn feverai large Vaults, annexe 
 to the Mountain on this fide, and running at leaft fifty 
 yards under ground. They were built in two Ifles Arch'ct 
 at top with huge firm flone, and fuftain'd with tall Pillars 
 confuting each of one fingle ftone and two yards in dia- 
 meter. This might polTibly be fome under ground work 
 made to enlarge the Area of the Temple. For Jofephus 
 feems to defenbe fome fuch work as this eredted over the 
 Valley on this fide of the Temple, Aut.Jud. Ub. i$\ 
 Cap. ult. 
 
 From thefe Vaults, we return'd toward the Convent. In 
 our way, we pafs'd thro' the Turkifh Bazars, and took a 
 view of the beautiful Gate of the Temple. But we could 
 but juft view it in palling, it not being fafe to ftay here 
 long by reafbn of the fuperfhtion of the Turks. 
 
 Tuejday April 6. 
 The next morning we took another progrefs about the 
 City. We made our Exit at Bethlehem Gate, and turning 
 
 N 2 down 
 
i oo A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 down on the left hand under the Caflle of the Tifans, 
 came in about a furlong and half to that which they call 
 Batbjbebd?, Pool. It lies at the bottom of Mount Sion, and 
 is fuppos'd to be the fame in which Bathjheba was wafhing 
 her felfj when 'David fpied her from the Terrace of his 
 Pallace. But others refer this accident to another letter 
 Pool, in a Garden juft within Bethlehem Gate, and per- 
 haps both opinions are equally in the right. 
 
 A little below this Pool begins the Valley of Hinnom : 
 on the Weft fide of which is the place call'd Anciently the 
 Totters Fields and afterwards the Field of Blood, from it's 
 being purchas'd with the pieces of Silver which were the 
 price of the Blood of Chrilt ; but at preient, from that 
 veneration which it has obtain'd amongft Christians, it is 
 call'd Campo Santlo. It is a fmall plat of ground not 
 above thirty yards long, and about naif as much broad. 
 One moity of" it is taken up by a fbuare Fabnck twelve 
 yards high, built for a Charnel Houfe. The Corpfes are 
 let down into it from the top, there being five holes left 
 open for that purpofe, looking down thro' thefe holes we 
 could fee many bodys under feveral degrees of decay : 
 from which it may be conjedtur'd, that this grave does not 
 make that quick difpatch with the Corpfes committed to 
 it, which is commonly reported. The Armenians have 
 the command of this burying place, for which they pay 
 the Turks a Rent of one Zequin a day. The Earth is 
 of a chalky fubftance hereabouts. 
 
 A little below the Campo SanSto is fhewn an intricate 
 Cave or Sepulcher confifting of feveral Rooms one within 
 another, in which the Apollks are faid to have hid them- 
 felves, when they fbrfook their Mafler, and fled. The 
 entrance of the Cave difcovers figns of it's having been 
 adorn'd with Painting in ancient times. 
 
 A little farther the Valley of Hrnnom terminates, that 
 of Jehojaphat running crofs the mouth of it. Along the 
 bottom of this latter Valley runs the Brook Cedron, a Brook 
 in Winter time, but without the leafl drop of water in it 
 ail the time we were at Jerufalem. 
 
 In 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. i o i 
 
 In the Valley of' Jehofaphat, the firfl thing you are car- 
 ry'd to is the Well of Nehemiah, fo cali'd becaufe reputed 
 to be the fame place from which that reflorer of ffrael re- 
 covered the fire of the Altar, after the Babylonifh Capti- 
 vity, z Mac. i. ip. A little higher in the Valley, on the 
 left hand, you come to a Tree, fuppos'd to mark out the 
 place where the Evangelical Tropbet was fawn afunder. 
 About one hundred paces higher on the fame lide is the 
 Pool oiSiloam. It was anciently dignified with a Church 
 built over it. But when we were there, a Tanner made 
 no fcruple to drefs his hides in it. Going about a furlong 
 farther on the fame fide, you come to the Fountain of 
 the Blejfed Virgin, fo called, becaufe fhe was wont ( as 
 is reported ) to refort hither for water ; but at what time 
 and upon what occalions, it is not yet agreed. Over 
 againft this Fountain on the other fide of the Valley, is a 
 Village cali'd Sihe. In which Solomon is faid to have kept 
 his ltrange wives, and above the Village is a Hill cali'd 
 the Mountain of Offence', becaufe there Solomon built the 
 high places mention'd i Kings n. % his wives having 
 perverted his wife heart, to follow their Idolatrous Abo- 
 minations in his declining years. On the fame fide and 
 not far diflant from Sihe, they fhew another Aceldama or 
 Field of Blood, fb cali'd, becaufe there it was, xhn Judas 
 by the juffc judgment of God, met with his compounded 
 death. Mat. 2*7. y. Acls 1. 18, 19. A little farther on the 
 fame fide of the Valley, they lhew'd us feveral Jewifli 
 Monuments. Amongft the reft there are two noble An- 
 tiquities, which they call the Sepulcher of Zachary and 
 the Pillar of Abfolom. Clofe by the latter is the Sepulcher 
 of Jehofaphat from which the whole Valley takes it's 
 name. 
 
 Upon the edge of the Hill on the oppofite fide of the 
 Valley, there runs along in a direct line, the Wall of the 
 City. Near the corner of which there is a fhort end of a 
 Pillar, jetting out of the Wall. Upon this Pillar, the Turks 
 have a tradition that Mahomet fhall fit in Judgment, at 
 the lafl day, and that all the World fhall be gathered 
 
 together 
 
102 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufale?n. 
 
 together in the Valley below, to receive their doom from 
 his mouth. A little farther Northward is the Gate of the 
 Temple. It is at prefent wall'd up, becaufe the Turks 
 here, have a Prophecy, that their deitruchon (hall enter 
 at that Gate, the completion of which prediction, they en- 
 deavour by this means to prevent. Below this Gate, in 
 the bottom of the Valley is a broad hard ftone, difcover- 
 ing feveral imprcflions upon it, which you may Fancy to 
 be Footfteps. Thefe the Fryars tell you are prints made 
 by our Blelfed Saviour's Feet, when after his Apprehen- 
 Con he was hurried violently a way to the Tribunal of his 
 Blood-thirfty perfecutors. 
 
 From hence, keeping ltill in the bottom of the Valley 
 you come in a few paces to a place, which they call the 
 Sepulcher of the Bkjkd Virgin. It has a magnificent 
 defcent down into it of forty feven flairs : On the right 
 hand, as you go down is the Sepulcher of St. Anna, the 
 Mother, and on the left that of St. Jofeph the Husband of 
 the Blelfed Virgin. 
 
 Having finiuYd our viiit to this place, we went up the 
 Hill toward the City. In the fide of the afcent, we were 
 fhewn a broad ftone on which they fay St. Stephen fiifc 
 fer'd Martyrdom ; and not far from it, is a Grot into which 
 they tell you the outragious Jewiih Zealots call his Body, 
 when they had fatiated their fury upon him. From hence 
 we went immediatly to St. Stephens Gate, fo call'd from 
 it's Vicinity to this place of the Protomartyrs fuffering; 
 and fb return 'd to our Lodging. 
 
 JVednefday April 7. 
 The next morning we fet out again, in order to fee the 
 Sanctuaries, and other vifitable places upon Mount Olivet. 
 We went out at St. Stephen's Gate, and crofling the Val- 
 ley oj Jchofaphai, began imincdiatly to afeend the Moun- 
 tains being got about two thirds of the way up, we came 
 to certain Grotto's cut with intricate windings and Ca- 
 verns under ground. Thefe are call'd the Sepulchers of 
 the c Proph,-ts. A little higher up are twelve Arch'd Vaults 
 
 under 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 103 
 
 under ground Handing fide by fide; thefe were built m 
 memory of the twelve Apofi/es who are faid to have com- 
 piled their Creed in this place. Sixty paces higher you 
 come to the place, where they fay Chrift utter'd his Pro- 
 phecy concerning the final deltruclion of Jerujalem. Mat. 
 2.4. And a little on the right hand of this, is the place 
 where they fay he delated a fecond time the Tater nojier 
 to his Diiciples. Luke it. 1,2. Somewhat higher is the 
 Cave of St. Te/agia, and as much more above that a Pillar, 
 fignifying the place where an Angel gave the Bleded Vir- 
 gin three days warning of" her Death: at the top of the 
 Hill, you come to the place of our Bielled Lord's Afcen- 
 fion. Here was anciently a large Church, built in honour 
 of that glorious Triumph. But all that now remains of 
 it is only an octagonal Cupola, about eight yards in dia- 
 meter, f landing as they fay over the very place, where were 
 let the laft FoodLps of the Son of God here on Earth. 
 Within the Cupola there is feen, in a hard flone, as they 
 tell you, the print of one of his Feet. Here was alfb that 
 of the other Foot fometime fince ; but it has been remov'd 
 from hence by the Turks into the great Mofque upon 
 Mount Moviah. This Chapel of the Afcenfion the Turks 
 have the Cuftody of, and ufe it for a Mofque. There are 
 many other holy places about Jerujakm, which the Turks 
 pretend to have a veneration for, equally with the Chri- 
 fiians, and under that pretence they take them into their 
 own hands. But whether they do this out of real devo- 
 tion, or for lucre's fake, and to the end that they may 
 exacT: money from the Chnftians for admiflion into them, 
 I will not determine. 
 
 About two furlongs from this place Northward, is the 
 higheft part of Mount Olive 't, and upon that was anciently 
 erected an high Tower; in memory of that Apparition of 
 the two Angels to the Apoftles. After our Bletied Lord's 
 Afcenlion Af/s 1. 10, 11. from which the Tower ltfelf 
 had the name given it of Vtri GahUi ! This ancient Mo- 
 nument remain'd till about two years fince, when it was 
 demolifh'd by a Turk, who had bought the Field in which 
 
 it 
 
104 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 it Hood, but nevenhelefs you have ftill from the natural 
 height of the place, a large profpedt of Jerufalem, and 
 the adjacent Country and of the dead Sea, &c. 
 
 From this place we delcended the Mount again by an- 
 other Road. At about the midway down they fnew you 
 the place where Chrifl beheld the City and wept over it. 
 Inks, ip- 41. Near the bottom of the Hill is a great flone 
 upon which, you are told, the Bleded Virgin let fall her 
 girdle after her Adumption, in order to convince St. Tho- 
 mas j who, they fay, was troubled with a fit of his old 
 Incredulity upon this occafion. There is dill to be (ktn. 
 a i'mall winding channel upon the ftone, which they will 
 have to be the impreflion made by the girdle when it fell, 
 and to be left for the convi&ion of all 1 uch as ihall fuipelt 
 the truth of their itory of the AfTumption. 
 
 About twenty yards lower they fhew you Gethfemane 
 an even plat of ground, not above fifty feven yards fquare, 
 lying between the foot of dMount Olivet and the brook 
 Cedron. It is well planted with Olive Trees, and thole 
 of fo old a growth, that they are believ'd to be the fame 
 that Hood here in our Blefled Saviour's time. In vertue 
 of which perfwalion, the Olives, and Olive Hones, and 
 Oyl which they produce, became an excellent commodity 
 in Spain. But that thefe Trees cannot be fo ancient as is 
 pretended, is evident from what Jofephus teflifies Lib. y 
 Bell. Jud. Cap. 1 j. and in other places, viz. that Titus in 
 his Siege of Jerufalem, cut down all the Trees within 
 about one hundred furlongs of 'Jerufalem ; and that the 
 Souldiers were forced to fetch wood fo far for making 
 their Mounts when they AHaulted the Temple. 
 
 At the upper corner of the Garden is a flat naked ledge 
 of Rock, reputed to be the place, on which the Apoftles, 
 Teter, James, and John, fell a fleep during the Agony 
 of our Lord= And a few paces from hence is a Grotto 
 laid to be the place in which Chrifl underwent that bitter 
 part of his Pailion. 
 
 About eight paces from the place where the Apoftles 
 (lept 7 is a fmall fhred of ground twelve yards long, and 
 
 : one 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. ios 
 one broad, fuppos'd to be the very path on which the 
 Traitor Judas walk'd up to Chrilt, laying, hail Mafter 
 and kijied him. This narrow path is Separated by a Wall 
 out of the midlfc of the Garden, as a Terra damnata, a 
 work the more remarkable, as being done by the Turks, 
 who as well as Christians deteft the very ground, on which 
 was acted Inch an infamous treachery. 
 
 From hence we crois'd the brook Cedron clofe by the 
 reputed Sepulchcr of the Bletlcd Virgin, and entnng at 
 St. Stephens Gate return'd again to the Convent. 
 
 Thurfday April 8. 
 
 We went to fee the Palace ofPdate, I mean the place 
 where they fay it ftood, for now an ordinary Turkilh 
 Houfe pollefles it's room. It is not far from the Gate of 
 St. Stephen, and borders upon the Area of the Temple on 
 the North fide. From the Terrace of this Houfe you have 
 a fair profpedt of all the place where the Temple ftood, 
 indeed the only good profpecl, that is allow'd you of it, 
 for there is no going within the borders of it, without 
 forfeiting your Life, or which is worfe your Religion. 
 A fitter place for an Augufl building could not be found 
 in the whole World than this Area. It lies upon the top 
 of iSMount 'JMorzah over againlt tJMount Olivet, the Valley 
 okjehofaphat lying between both Mountains. It is, as far 
 as I could compute by walking round it without, five 
 hundred and feventy of my paces in length, and three 
 hundred and feventy in breadth, and one may {till difcern 
 marks of the great labour that it colt, to cut away the 
 hard Rock, and to level fuch a fpatious Area upon fo ftrong 
 a Mountain. In the middle of the Area ftands at prelent 
 a Mofque of an octagonal figure, fuppos'd to be built upon 
 the fame ground, where anciently ftood the SanEium 
 San&orum. It is neither eminent for it's largenels nor it's 
 ftructure, and yet it makes a very ftately figure, by the 
 fble advantage of it's fituation. 
 
 In this pretended Houfe oi Pilate is (hewn the Room 
 in which Chrift was mock'd with the enfigns of Royalty 
 
 O and 
 
i o 6 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujalem. 
 
 and buffeted by the Souldiers. At the coming out of the 
 Houfe is a defcent, where was anciently the ScalaSan&a. 
 On the other fide of the Brett (which was anciently pare 
 of the Palace alio ) is the Room where they lay our Lord 
 was fcourged. It was once us'd for a Stable by the Son of 
 a certain BaJJa of 'Jerujakm : but prefently upon this pro- 
 fanation they fay there came fuch a mortality amongft his 
 Horfes, as fbre'd him to refign the place : by which means 
 it was redeem 'd from that iordid ufe ; but neverthelcfs, 
 when we were there, it was no better than a Weavers 
 fhop. In our return from Pilate's Palace, we pafs'd along 
 the 'Dolorous way, in which walk, we were (hewn in or^ 
 der : firft, the place where 'Pilate brought our Lord forth, 
 to prefent to the people, with this myltick faying, Behold 
 the Man ! fecondly, where Chrift fainted thrice, under the 
 weight of his Crofs: thirdly, where the Bleiled Virgin 
 fwoon'd away at fo tragical a fpectacle : fourthly, where 
 St. Veronica prefented to him the handkerchief to wipe his 
 bleeding Brows : fifthly, where the Souldiers compell'd 
 Simon the Cyrenian to bear his Crofs : all which places I 
 need only to name. 
 
 Friday April p. 
 
 We went to take a view of that which they call the 
 Pool of Bethejda. It is one hundred and twenty paces 
 long, and forty broad, and at leaf! eight deep, but void 
 of water. At it's Weft end it difcovers fome old Arches, 
 now damm'd up. Thefe fome will have to be the five 
 Porches in which fate that Multitude, of lame, halt, and 
 blind, John $. but the mifchief is, inftead of five there are 
 but three of them. This Pool is contiguous on one fide to 
 St. Stephens Gate, on the other to the Area of the Temple. 
 
 From hence we went to the Gonventor Nunnery of St. 
 Aun. The Church here is large, and entire, and fb are 
 part of the Lodgings, but both are defblate and neglected. 
 In a Grotto under the Church is fhewn the place, where 
 they fay the Bleffed Virgin was Born. Near this Church 
 they fhew the Pharijees Houfe, where Mary Magdalen 
 
 exhibited 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 1 07 
 
 exhibited thofe admirable evidences of a penitent affeclion 
 towards our Saviour : wafoing bis feet with her tears, and 
 imping them with her hair, Luke 7. 38. This place alio 
 has been anciently dignified with holy buildings, but they 
 are now negledled. 
 
 This was our mornings work. In the afternoon we 
 went to fee tSMount Gihon, and the Pool of the fame name. 
 It lies about two furlongs without Bethlehem Gate Weft- 
 ward. It is a flately Pool, one hundred and fix paces long 
 and fixty feven broad, and lm'd with wall and plailter, 
 and was, when we were there, well ftor'd with water. 
 
 Saturday April 10. 
 
 We went to take our leaves of the holy Sepulcher, this 
 being the laft time, that it was to be open'd this Feftival. 
 
 Upon this finifhing day, and the night following, the 
 Turks allow free admittance, for all people, without de- 
 manding any fee for entrance as at other times ; calling it 
 a day of Charity. By this promifcuous Licence, they let 
 in not only the poor, but, as I was told, the lew'd and 
 vicious alio : who come hither to get convenient opportu- 
 nity for prollitution, prophaning the holy places in fuch a 
 manner (as it is laid ) that they were not worfe defil'd even 
 then when the Heathens here celebrated their Aphrodifia. 
 
 Sunday April 1 1 . 
 Now began the Turks Byram (that is the Feaft which 
 they celebrate after their Lent, call'd by them Ramadani) 
 this being a time of great Libertimfmamongft the Rabble, 
 we thought it prudent to confine our felves to our Lodg- 
 ings for Tome time, to the end that we might avoid fuch 
 Inlolencys as are ufual in fuch times of publick Feftivity. 
 Our confinement was the lefs incommodious becaufe there 
 was hardly any thing, either within or about the City, 
 which we had not already vifited. 
 
 Monday April 12. Tuejday April 13. 
 
 We kept clofe to our Quarters, but however not in. 
 u'lenefs: the time being now come, when we were to 
 
 O 2 contrive, 
 
I o 8 A journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 contrive, and provide things in order for our departure. 
 We had a bad account from all hands, of the Countrys 
 being more and more embroyl'd by the Arabs: which made 
 us fomewhat unrefblv'd what way and method to take for 
 our return. But during our iufpence it was told us that 
 the Mofolem was likewife upon his return to his Matter, 
 the Bafia of Tripoli : upon which intelligence we refbiv'd, 
 if poflible, to joyn our felves to his Company. 
 
 IVednefday April 14. 
 
 We went with a fmall prefent in our hands to wait up- 
 on the Mofolem ; in order to enquire the time of his de- 
 parture, and acquaint him with our defire to go under 
 his protection, fie aflur'd us of his letting out the next 
 morning, k> we immediatly took our leaves in order to 
 prepare our felves for accompanying him. 
 
 1 was willing before our departure to meafure the Cir- 
 cuit of the City; ib taking one of the Fryars with me, I 
 went out m the afternoon, in order to pace the Walls 
 round. We went out at Bethlehem Gate, and proceeding 
 on the right hand came about to the fame Gate again. 1 
 found the whole City 4630 paces in Circumference, which 
 I computed thus. 
 
 Paces 
 From Bethlehem Gate to the corner on the right hand 400 
 From that corner to 2)amafcus Gate 680 
 
 From T) am a] cm Gate to Herods 380 
 
 From Herod's Gate to Jeremiah's Pr ifbn iyo 
 
 Ywm Jeremiah's Prifon to the corner next the Valley 
 
 of jehofaphat 12s 
 
 From that corner to St. Stephens Gate 385- 
 
 From St. Stephens Gate to the Golden Gate 240 
 
 From the Golden Gate to the corner of the Wall 380 
 From that corner to the T)img Gate 473 
 
 From the 2)ung Gate to Sion Gate 60s 
 
 From Sion Gate to the corner of the Wall 215- 
 
 From that corner to Bethlehem Gate yoo 
 
 In all, paces 4630 
 The 
 
A Jou rney from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 109 
 
 The reduction of my paces to yards, is by calling away 
 a tenth part. Ten or my paces making nine yards, by 
 which reckoning the 4630 paces amount to 416^ yards, 
 which make juit two miles and a half! 
 
 Tburfday April 15". 
 
 This morning our Diplomata were prefented us by the 
 Father Guardian, tocertifie our having vilited all the holy 
 places, and we prefented the Convent fifty Dollars a Man, 
 as a gratuity for their trouble, which offices having paft 
 betwixt us we took our leaves. 
 
 We let out together with the Mofolem, and proceeding 
 in the fame Road, by which we came, lodged the firff. 
 night at Kane Leban. But the Mofolem left us here, and 
 continued his ltage as far as Naplofa, lb we faw him no 
 more. The Country people were now every where at 
 plough m the Fields, m order to fow Cotton. 'Twas ob- 
 iervable that in ploughing they us'd Goads of an extraor- 
 dinary fize. Upon mealuring of feveral, I found them 
 about eight foot long, and at the bigger end fix inches in 
 circumference. They were arm'd at the lefler end with a 
 iharp prickle for driving the Oxen, and at the other end 
 with a ftnall fpade, or paddle of Iron, ftrong and mafiy 
 for cleanfing the Plough from the clay, that encumbers it 
 in working. May we not from hence conjecture, that it 
 was with luch a Goad as one of thefe that Sbamgar made 
 that prodigious flaughter related of him. Jud. Cap. g. v. 31 ? 
 I am confident that whoever fhould fee one of thefe In- 
 ftruments, would judge it to be a weapon, not lefs fit, per- 
 haps fitter than a fword for fuch an Execution. Goads of 
 this fort I faw always us'd hereabouts, and alio in Syria y 
 and the realbn is, becaufe the fame fingle perfon both drives 
 the Oxen, and alfb holds and manages the Plough, which 
 makes it necellary to ufe fuch a Goad, as is above defcrib'd ; 
 to avoid the encumbrance of two Inftruments. 
 
 Friday April 16". 
 Leaving Kane Leban, we proceeded (fill in our former 
 Road, and palling by Naplofa, and Samaria^ we came to 
 
 the 
 
1 1 o A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 the Fountain Seke, and there took up our Lodging this 
 night. 
 
 Saturday April 1 7. 
 
 The next morning we continued on in the lame Road 
 that we Travell'd when outward bound, till we came to 
 Caphar Arab. At this place we left our former way, and 
 mitead of turning off on the left hand to go for Acra, we 
 kept our courfe ftraight forwards, refolving to crofs di- 
 rectly athwart the Plain of EJ'draehn, and to vifit Na- 
 zareth . 
 
 Proceeding in this courfe from Caphar Arab, we came 
 in about half an hour to Jeneen. This is a large old Town, 
 on the skirts of Efdraelon : it has in it an old Caftle, and 
 two Mofques,and is the chief refidence of the Emir Ch/bly. 
 Here we were accofled with a Command from the Emir 
 not to advance any farther, till he (hould come in perfon, 
 to receive of us his Caphars. This was very unwelcome 
 news to us, who had met with a tryal of his civility be- 
 fore. But however we had no remedy, and therefore 
 thought it bell to comply as contentedly as we could. 
 Having been kept thus in fufpence from two in the morn- 
 ing till Sun let, we then receiv'd an order from the Prince, 
 to pay the Caphar, to an Officer, whom he fent to receive 
 it, and difmifs us. 
 
 Having receiv'd this Licence, we made all the hall we 
 could, to difpatch the Caphar, and to get clear of thefe 
 Arabs. But notwithstanding all our diligence, it was near 
 midnight before we could finilh. After which we de- 
 parted, and entring immediatly into the Plain of Ej'drac- 
 hn Travell'd over it all night, and in feven hours reach 'd 
 it's other fide. Here we had a very fteep and Rocky alcenr, 
 but however in half an hour we mafter'd it, and arriv'd 
 at Nazareth. 
 
 Sunday April 18. 
 
 Nazareth is at prefent only an inconfiderable Village, 
 fuuate in a kind of round Concave Valley, on the top of 
 
 an 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. in 
 
 an high Hill. We were entertain'd at the Convent, built 
 over the place of the Annunciation. At this place are as 
 it were immured feven or eight Latin Fathers, who live 
 a Life truly mortified, being perpetually in fear of the 
 Arabs, who are abfoiute Lords of all the Country. 
 
 We went in the afternoon to vilit the Sanctuary of this 
 place. The Church of Nazareth ftands in a Cave, fuppos'd 
 to be the place, where the Bleiled Virgin receiv'd that 
 joyful meflage of the Angel, Hail thou that art highly fa- 
 voured &c. Luke i. 28. It relembles the figure of a Crofs. 
 That part of it that Hands for the Tree of the Crofs is 
 fourteen paces long and fix over, and runs directly into 
 the Grot, having no other Arch over it at top but that of 
 the natural Rock. The traverfe part of the Crofs is nine 
 paces long and iour broad, and is built athwart the mouth 
 of the Grot. Jufl at the fe£Hon of the Crofs are ere&ed 
 two Granite Pillars, each two foot, and one inch diameter, 
 and about three foot diltance from each other. They are 
 fuppos'd to ftand on the very places, one, where the Angel, 
 the other, where the Bleiled Virgin ftood at the time of 
 the Annunciation. Of thefe Pillars, the innermoll; being 
 that of the Bleiled Virgin, has been broke away by the 
 Turks, m expectation of finding Treafure under it, fo 
 that eighteen inches length of it is clean gone, between 
 the Pillar and it's Pedeltal. Neverthelefs it remains ereel: ; 
 tho', by what art it is fufhin'd, I could not difcern. It 
 touches the roof above, and is probably hang'd upon that : 
 unlefs you had rather take the Fryars account of it, viz. 
 that it is fupported by a Miracle. 
 
 After this we went to lee the Houfe of Jofeph, being 
 the fame, as they tell you, in which the Son of God liv'd, 
 or near thirty years, in fubjechon to man, Luke z. yi. 
 Not far diftant from hence they fhew you the Synagogue, 
 \ here our Blefled Lord Preach 'd that Sermon Luke 4. by 
 vhich he fb exafperated his Country-men. Both thele 
 )laces lye North Weft from the Convent, and were an- 
 .lendy dignified each with ahandfome Church, but thefe 
 Monuments of Queen Helena's Piety are now m ruins. 
 
 Monday 
 
i r2 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 Monday April ip. 
 
 This day we deftin'd for vifking Mount Tabor ; which 
 {lands two hours didance from Nazareth Eafhvard. I: is 
 a high Mount, round and beautiful, {tanding by it felf in 
 the Plain of Galilee, at a fmall dittance from the other 
 Hills hereabouts. 
 
 It's being fituated in fuch a feparate manner has induc'd 
 molt Authors to conclude, that this mull needs be that 
 holy Mountain (as St. Teter ftyles it 2 Pet. 1. 18.) which 
 •was the place of our Blelled Lord's Transfiguration related 
 Mat. 17. Mark 0. There you read thatChrift took with 
 him Teter j James j and John, into a Mountain apart ; from 
 which delcnption they infer that the Mountain there 
 fpoke of can be no other than Tabor. The concluiion 
 may poliibly be true, but the argument us'd to prove it 
 ieems incompetent : becaufe the term nan <J>W or apart, 
 moft likely relates to the withdrawing and retirement of 
 the perfbns there fpoken of; and not the fituation of the 
 Mountain. 
 
 After a very laborious afcent which took up near an 
 hour, we reach'd the higheit part of the Mountain. It has 
 a plain Area at top, moft fertile, and delicious, of an oval 
 figure, extended about one furlong in breadth, and two 
 in length. This Area is enclos'd with Trees on all parts, 
 except toward the South. It was anciently inviron'd with 
 Walls, and Trenches, and other Fortifications, of which 
 it exhibits many remains at this day. 
 
 In this Area there are in feveral places Citterns of good 
 water, butthofe which are molt devoutly vilited,are three 
 contiguous Grotto's made to reprefent the three Taberna- 
 cles which St. Peter propos'd to erect in the aftonifhment 
 that pofleft him at the glory of the Transfiguration. Lord\ 
 ( lays he ) // is good for us to be here ; lei us make three 
 Tabernacles, one for thee, &c. 
 
 I cannot forbear to mention in this place, an Obferva- 
 tion, which is very obvious to all that vifit the Holy-Land. 
 viz. that almofl all pallages, and hiftories related in the 
 
 * Gofpel, 
 
Mount Zfalror 
 
 'aa. uz 
 
 V 
 
 i.Ncum.2.Etv£or.^. Mount Herman .fThe mounta: 
 in s of Gilboa.cfTlie mountains ofSamaria.oThe 
 river Kishon'iDu Plain ofEsdrculon.8. valUif oflezrael 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 113 
 Gofpel, are reprefented by them that undertake to (hew, 
 where every thing was done, as having been done mod 
 of them in Grottos, and that even in fuch cafes, where 
 the condition and circumflances of the actions themfelves, 
 feem to require places of another nature. 
 
 Thus if you would fee the place where St. Ann was 
 deliver'd of the Blefled Virgin, you are carried to a Grotto : 
 if the place of the Annunciation, it is alfo a Grotto : if 
 the place where the Blefled Virgin faluted Elizabeth ; if 
 that of the Baptifl's ; or that of our Blefled Saviour's Na- 
 tivity ; if that of the Agony ; or that of St. Te ter\ Re- 
 pentance ; or that where §he Apoftles made the Creed ; or 
 this of the Transfiguration ; all thefe places are alfo Grot- 
 tos : and in a word, where-ever you go, you find almoft 
 every thing is reprefented as done underground. Certain- 
 ly Grottos were anciently held in great efteem, or elfe 
 they could never have been aflign'd, in ipight of all pro- 
 bability, for the places, in which were done fo many va- 
 rious actions. Perhaps it was the Hermits way of living 
 in Grottos from the fifth, or fixth Century downward 
 that has brought them ever fince to be in fb great repu- 
 tation. 
 
 From the top of Tabor you have a profpect, which, if 
 nothing elfe, well rewards the labour of afcending it. It 
 is impollible for man's eys to behold a higher gratification 
 of this nature. On the North Weft you difcern at a di- 
 flance the Mediterranean, and all round you have the fpa- 
 tious and beautiful Plains of Ej'draelon, and Galilee, which 
 prefent you with the view of fo many places memorable 
 for the refort and Miracles of the Son of God. 
 
 At the bottom of Tabor Weftward flands T)aberah, a 
 fmall Village fuppos'd by fome to take it's name from 
 'Deborah, that famous Judge and Deliverer of TJrael. Near 
 this Valley is the Fountain of Kijhon. 
 
 Not many leagues diffant Eaftward you fee Mount Her- 
 mon, at the foot of which is feated Nam, famous for our 
 Lord's railing the Widow's Son there; Lu^e 7. 14. and 
 Endor the place where dwelt the Witch confulted by Saul. 
 
 P Turning 
 
n4 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem* 
 
 Turning a little Southward you have in view the high 
 Mountains oi'Gilboab, fatal to Saul and his Sons. 
 
 Due Eaftyou difcover the Sea of Tiberias, diftant about 
 one day's Journey ; and clofe by that Sea, they fhew a deep 
 Mountain, down which the Swine ran, and penfh'd in 
 the waters. Mat. 8. 3 2. 
 
 A few points toward the North appears that which they 
 call the Mount of the Beatitudes, a fmall rifing, from 
 which our Blefled Saviour deliver'd his Sermon in the 
 j. 6. 7, Chapters of St. Matthew. Not far from this lit- 
 tle Hill is the City Saphet, fuppos'd to be the ancient Be- 
 thulia. It Hands upon a very •minent, and confpicuous 
 Mountain, and is ieen far and near. May we not fup- 
 pofe that Chriit alludes to this City in thofe words of his 
 Sermon, Mat- ?. 14. A City Jet on a hill cannot be hid} 
 a conjecture which feems the more probable, becaufe our 
 Lord in feveral places affeds to illuitrate his difcourfe by 
 comparifons, taken from objects that were then prefent be- 
 fore the eys of his Auditors. As when he bids them, be- 
 hold the fowls of the air chap. 6. 16. and the liUies of the 
 field ibid. v. 18. 
 
 From Mount Tabor you have likewife the fight of a 
 place, which they will tell you was 7)othaim, where Jo- 
 Jeph was fold by his Brethren : and of the Field, where our 
 BiefTed Saviour fed the Multitude, with a few loaves, and 
 fewer fifhes. But whether it was the place where de di- 
 vided the five loaves, and two fifhes, amongfl the five 
 thoufand, Mat. 14.. 16. &c. or the feven loaves amongfl 
 the four thoufand, Mat. is • 3 a. I left them to agree among 
 them lei ves. 
 
 Having receiv'd great fatisfaclion in the fight of this 
 Mountain, we return d to the Convent, the fame way that 
 we came. After dinner we made another fmall excurfion, 
 ia order to fee that which ihey call the Mountain of the 
 Trec/pitation : that is, the brow of the Hill from which 
 the Nazarites wouJd have thrown down our Blefled Sa- 
 viour, being incens'd at his Sermon Preach'd to them, 
 Luke 4. This Precipice is at leaft half a league diftant 
 
 from 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 1 1 y 
 
 from Nazareth Southward. In going to it you crofs firft 
 over the Vale in which Nazareth ftands: and then going- 
 down two or three furlongs in a narrow cleft between 
 the Rocks, you there clamber up a fliort, but difficult way 
 on the right hand ; at the top of" which you find a great 
 (tone (landing on the brink of a Precipice : which is faid 
 to be the very place, where our Lord was deftin'd to be 
 thrown down, by his enraged Neighbours, had he not 
 made a Miraculous efcape out of their hands. There are 
 in the (tone feveral little holes, refembling the prints of 
 fingers, thruft into it. Thefe, if the Fryars fay truth, are 
 the imprefles of Chrift's fingers, made in the hard Hone, 
 whilft he refitted the violence that was offer'd to him. At 
 this place are fecn two or three Gflerns for faving water, 
 and a few ruins ; which is all that now remains of a Re- 
 ligious building Founded here by the Emprefs Helena. 
 
 Tuejday April 20. 
 
 The next morning we took our leaves of Nazareth, 
 prefenting the Guardian five a piece, for his trouble and 
 charge in entertaining us. We directed our courfe for 
 Acra; in order to which , going at firft Northward, we 
 crofs'd the Hills that encompafs the Vale of Nazareth on 
 that fide. After which we turn'd to the Weft ward, and 
 pafs'd in view of Cana of Galilee ; the place fignaliz'd 
 with the beginning of Chrift's Miracles John 2. n. In an 
 hour and a half more we came to Sepharia ; a place reve- 
 renc'd for being the reputed habitation of Joachim and 
 Anna t the Parents of the Blefled Virgin. It had once the 
 name of ' Z>iocefaria t and was a place in good repute. But 
 at prefent it is reduced to a poor Village, fhewing only 
 here and there a few ruins, to teftifie it's ancient better 
 condition. On the Weft fide of the Town ftands good 
 part of a large Church, built on the fame place, where 
 they fay ftood the Houfe of Joachim and Anna, it is fifty 
 paces long and in breadth proportionable. 
 
 At Sepharia begins the delicious Plain of Zahuhn, we 
 were an hour and a half in croffing it, and in an hour 
 
 P 2 and 
 
1 1 S A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem* 
 
 Sunday April z$. 
 The next day we continued afcending for three good 
 hours, and then arriv'd at the higheft ridge of the Moun- 
 tain, where the Snow lay clofe by the Road. We began 
 immediatly to defcend again on the other fide, and in two 
 hours came to a fraali Village called Mejhgarah, where 
 there gnlhes out, at once from the fide of the Mountain, 
 a plentiful dream, which falling down into a Valley be- 
 low makes a fine brook, and after a current of about two 
 leagues, looles it felf in a River called Letane. 
 
 At <3fefigarah there is a * Caphar demanded by the 
 Drufes, who are the poiTelfors of thefe Mountains. We 
 were for a little while perplex'd by the exceflive demand 
 made upon us by the Caphar-men ; but finding us obfti- 
 nate they defifted. 
 
 Having gone one hour beyond Mejhgarah, we got clear 
 of the.Mountain, and enter'd into a Valley called Bucc*. 
 The Valley is about two hours over, and in length ex- 
 tends feveral days Journey, lying near North Ealt, and 
 South Weft. It is inclofed on both fides with two paral- 
 lel Mountains, exactly refembling each other; the one 
 that which we lately pafs'd over between this and Sidon, 
 the other oppofite againft it toward 'Damafcuj. The for- 
 mer I take to be the true LibanuSj the latter Anti-Liba- 
 nus, which two Mountains are no where fo well diftin- 
 guifh'd as at this Valley. 
 
 In the bottom of the Valley, there runs a large River 
 called Letane. It rifes about two days Journey North- 
 ward, not far from Balbeck, and keeping it's courfe all 
 down the Valley, falls at laft into the River Cajimir, or 
 (as it is erroneoufly called ) Eleutherus. 
 
 Thus far our courfe had been Due Eafl; but here we 
 inclin'd fome points toward the North. Croffing obliquely 
 over the Valley we came in half an hour to a Bridge over 
 the River Letane. It conlifts of five (tone Arches, and 
 is called Kor Aren, from a Village at a little diflance, of 
 
 * Half per Frank, quarter ftr Servant. 
 
 the 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 119 
 
 the fame name. At this Bridge we crofs'd the River, and 
 having Travell'd about an hour and a half on it's bank, 
 pitch'd our Tents there for this night. Our whole ftage 
 was eight hours. 
 
 Monday April 16. 
 
 The next morning we continued our oblique courfe 
 over the Valley Bucca. In an hour we pafs'd clofe by a 
 fmall Village call'd Jibjeneetij and in three quarters of 
 an hour more came to the foot of the Mountain, Ami- 
 Libanus. Here we had an eafyafcent, and in half an hour 
 pafs'd by, on our right hand, a Village call'd Uzzi. In 
 three quarters of an hour more we arriv'd at Ayta, a Vil- 
 lage of Chriftians of the Greek Communion. At this laft 
 place the Road began to grow very Rocky and trouble- 
 fome : in which having Travell'd an hour, we arriv'd at 
 a fmall Rivulet call'd Ayn Tentloe. Here we enter'd into 
 a narrow cleft between two Rocky Mountains, palling 
 thro' which we arriv'd in four hours at 2)emajs, gently 
 defcending all the way. At Z>emajs a fmall * Caphar is 
 demanded, which being difpatch'd we put forward again, 
 but had not gone above an hour and a half, when it grew 
 dark, and we were forced to ftop, at a very inhofpitable 
 place, but the beff we could find, affording no grafs for 
 our Horfes, nor any water, but juft enough to breed frogs, 
 by which we were ferenaded all night. 
 
 Tuejday April 27. 
 Early the next morning we deferted this uncomfortable 
 Lodging, and in about an hour arriv'd at the River Bar- 
 rady : our Road fhll defcending. This is the River that 
 waters !DamaJcus, and enriches it with all it's plenty, and 
 pleafure. It is not fo much as twenty yards over, but 
 comes pouring down from the Mountains, with great ra- 
 pidity, and with fo vaft a body of water, that it abun- 
 dantly fupplys all the thirfty Gardens, and the City of 
 2)awafcus. 
 
 • A quarter ptr Head. 
 
 : We 
 
120 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerujakm, 
 
 We crolled Barrady at a new Bridge over it, call'd 
 tDurntnar. On the other fide our Road afcended, and in 
 half an hour, brought us to the brink of a high Precipice, 
 at the bottom of which the River runs; the Mountain be- 
 ing here cleft afunder to give it admiifion into the Plain 
 below. 
 
 At the higheft part of the Precipice, is erected a fmall 
 ftruclure, like a Shecks Sepulcher, concerning which the 
 Turks relate this ftory ; that their Prophet, coming near 
 !Dama/cus took his ftation at that place, for fome time, 
 in order to view the City, and conlidering the ravifhing 
 beauty, and delightfulnefs of it, he would not tempt his 
 frailty by entring into it ; but inftantly departed, with this 
 reflection upon it, that there was but one Paradife defign'd 
 for man, and for his part he was refolv'd not to take His 
 in this World. 
 
 You have indeed from the Precipice the moft perfect 
 profpedt of Ztamafcus. And certainly no place in the 
 World can promife the beholder at a diftance, greater 
 voluptuoufnefs. It is fituate in an even Plain of fo great 
 extent, that you can but juft difcern the Mountains that 
 compafs it, on the farther fide. It ftands on the Weft fide 
 of the Plain, at not above two miles diftance from the 
 place where the River Barrady breaks out from between 
 the Mountains : it's Gardens extending almoft to tbe very 
 place. 
 
 The City it {elf is of a long ftraight figure : it's ends 
 pointing near North Eaft and South Weft. It is very flen- 
 der in the middle, but fwells bigger at each end, efpecially 
 at that to the North Eaft : in it's length as far as I could 
 guefs by my eye it may extend near two miles. It is thick 
 iet with Mofques, and Steeples, the ufuai ornaments of 
 the Turkifh Citys, and is encompafs'd with Gardens, ex- 
 tending no left, according to common eftimation, than 
 thirty miles round ; which makes it look like a noble City 
 in a vaft Wood. The Gardens are thick let with Fruit 
 Trees of ali kinds, kept frefh, and verdant by the waters 
 of Barrady, You difcover in them many Turrets, and 
 
 Steeples, 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 121 
 
 Steeples, and Summer-Houfes, frequently peeping out from 
 amongft the green boughs, which may be conceiv'd to add 
 no fmall advantage and beauty to the Profpect. On the 
 North fide of this valt Wood, is a place call'd Sol fees 7 
 where are the molt beautiful Summer-Houfes and Gardens. 
 
 The greateit part of this pleafantnefs, and fertility pro- 
 ceeds, as I laid, from the waters of Barrady, which fup- 
 ply both the Gardens, and City in great abundance. This 
 River, as foon as it idiies out from between the cleft of 
 the Mountain before mention'd, into the Plain, is imme- 
 diatly divided into three Streams, of which, the middle- 
 molt, and biggeft runs diredtly to Damafcus, thro' a large 
 open Field, call'd the Ager Dama/cenus, and is diflnbuted 
 to all the Cifterns and Fountains of the City. The other 
 two (which I take to be the work of Art ) are drawn 
 round, one to the right hand, the other to the left, on 
 the borders of the Gardens, into which they are let as 
 they pals by little Currents, and fo difpers'd all over the 
 vaft Wood. Infomuch that there is not a Garden, but 
 has a fine quick Stream running thro' it, which ferves not 
 only for watering the place, but is alfb improv'd into Foun- 
 tains, and other waterworks very delightful, tho' not con- 
 triv'd with that variety of exquilite Art which is us'd in 
 Chriftendome. 
 
 Barrady being thus defcrib'd, is almofl wholly drunk 
 up by the City and Gardens. What fmall part of it efcapes, 
 is united, as I was mfbrm'd, in one Chanel again, on the 
 South Eaft iideof the City; and after about three or four 
 hours courfe, finally loofes it felf in a bog there, without 
 ever arriving at the Sea. 
 
 The Greeks, and, from them, the Romans call this Ri- 
 ver Chrjforrhoas. But as for Abana, and Thar par, Rivers 
 of 'Damajcus mention'd 2 Kings y. 12. I could find no me- 
 mory, fo much as of the names remaining. They muft 
 doubtlefs have been only two branches of the River Bar- 
 rady y and one of them was probably the fameftream that 
 now runs through the Ager Damajcemis, directly to the 
 City ; which fecms by it's Terpentine way to be a natural 
 
 CL Chanel: 
 
1 2 z A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 Chanel : the other I know not well where to rind, but 
 it's no wonder, feeing they may and do turn, and alter the 
 courfes of this River, according to their own convenience, 
 and pleafure. 
 
 We continued a good while upon the Precipice, to take 
 a view of the City, and indeed it is a hard matter to leave 
 a ftation which prefents you fo charming a Landskip. It 
 exhibits the paradife below as a moll fair, and delectable 
 place, and yet will hardly furTer you to ftir away, to go 
 to it ; thus at once inviting you to the City, by the plea- 
 fure, which it feems to promife, and detaining you from 
 it, by the beauty of the Profpect. 
 
 Coming down the Hill into the Plain, we were there 
 met by a Janizary from the Convent; fent to condudt us 
 into the City. He did not think fit to carry us in at the 
 Weft Gate, ( which was neareft at hand ) and lb all acrofs 
 the City, to the Latin Convent, where we were to Lodge j 
 for fear the Damalceens, who are a very bigotted, and m- 
 folent race, fhould be offended at fo great a number of 
 Franks as we were : to avoid which danger, he led us 
 round about the Gardens, before we arriv'd at the Gate. 
 The Garden Walls are of a very lingular ftruclure. They 
 are built of great pieces of Earth, made in the fafhion of 
 Brick, and hardn'd in the Sun. In their dimenfions they 
 are two yards long each, and fomewhat more than one 
 broad, and half a yard thick. Two rows of thefe placed 
 edge ways, one upon another make a cheap expeditious, 
 and, in this dry Country, a durable Wall 
 
 In palling between the Gardens, we alfo obferv'd their 
 method of lcouring the Chanels. They put a great bough, 
 of a Tree in the water, and fallen to it a yoke of Oxen. 
 Upon the bough there fits a good weighty fellow, to prefs 
 it down to the bottom, and to drive the Oxen. In this 
 equipage the bough is diagg'd all along the Chanel, and 
 ferves at once both to cleanle the bottom, and alio to 
 mud, and fatten the water for the greater benefit of the 
 Gardens. 
 
 Entring at the Eaft Gate, we went imraediatly to the 
 
 Convent. 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to ferufalem. 125 
 
 Convent, and were very courteoufly receiv'd by the Guar- 
 dian Father Raphael a Majorkine by birth, and a perfbn 
 who tho' he has dedicated himfelf to the contemplative 
 life, yet is not unfit for any affairs of the Active. 
 
 Wednefday April 28. 
 
 This morning we walk'd out to take a view of the City, 
 The firft place we went to vifit, was the Houfe of an emi- 
 nent Turk. The Streets here are narrow, as is ufuai in 
 hot Countrys, and the Houfes are all built, on the out- 
 fide, of no better a material than either Sun burnt Brick, 
 or Fleraifh Wall, daub'd over in as courfe a manner, as 
 can be feen in the vilefl Cottages. From this dirty way 
 of building, they have this amonglt other inconveniencies, 
 that upon any violent Rain, the whole City becomes, by 
 the walhing of the Houfes, as it were a Quagmire. 
 
 It may by wonder'd what fhould induce the people to 
 build in this bafe manner, when they have in the adjacenc 
 Mountains fuch plenty of good Stone, for nobler Faoricks 
 I can give no reafon for it unlefs this may pafs for fuch, 
 that thofe who firlt planted here, finding fo delicious a 
 (ituation, were in haft to come to the enjoyment of it, and 
 therefore nimbly fet up thefe extemporary Habitations, 
 being unwilling to defer their pleafures fb long, as whilffc 
 they might erect more magnificent f tructures : which pri- 
 mitive example their fuccellburs have follow'd ever fince. 
 
 But however in thefe mud Walls, you find the Gates, 
 and Doors adorn'd with Marble Portals, carv'd and in- 
 laid with great beauty and variety. It is an object not a 
 little furpnzing, to fee mud and Marble, State and fordid- 
 nefs fo mingled together. 
 
 On the infide, the Houfes difcover a very different face, 
 from what you fee without. Here you find generally a 
 large fquare Court, beautified with variety of fragrant 
 Trees, and Marble Fountains, and compafs'd round with 
 fplendid apartments, and Duans. The Duans are floor'd 
 and adorn'd on the fides, with variety of Marble, mixt in 
 Mofaick Knots, and Mazes. The Ceilings and Traves are 
 
 Q^ 2 after 
 
124 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 afler the Turkifh manner richly Painted, and Guilded. 
 They have generally Artificial Fountains, ipringmg up 
 before them in Marble Bafons, and, as for Carpets and 
 CulhioiiS; are furnifh'd out to the height of Luxury. Of 
 theie Duans they have generally ieveral on all fides of 
 the Court, being placed at fuch different points, that at 
 one or other of them, you may always have, either the 
 fhade or the Sun which you pleafe. 
 
 Such as I have defcrib'd was the Houfe we went to 
 fee, and I was told the reft refemble the fame defcription. 
 
 In the next place we went to fee the Church of St. 
 John Baptifty now converted into a Mofque, and held too 
 facred for Chriftians to enter, or almoft to look into. 
 However we had three fhort views of it, looking in at 
 three feverai Gates. It's Gates are vaftly large, and cover'd 
 with Brafs ftampt all over with Arab Characters, and in 
 ieveral places with the figure of a Chalice, fuppos'd to be 
 the ancient enfign or Armes of the Mamalukes. On the 
 North fide of the Church, is a fpatious Court, which I 
 could not conjecture to be lefs than one hundred and fifty 
 yards long, and eighty or one hundred broad. The Court 
 is pav'd all over, and enclofed on the South fide by the 
 Church, on the other three fides by a double Cloifter, 
 fupported with Granite Pillars of the Corinthian Order, 
 exceeding lofty and beautiful. 
 
 On the South fide the Church joyns to the Bazars, and 
 there we had an opportunity juit to peep into it. It is 
 within fpatious and lofty built with three Jlles, between 
 which are rows of pollifh'd Pillars of a furprifing beauty. 
 
 In this Church are kept, the Head of Si. John, and fome 
 other relicks efteem'd fo holy, that it is death even for a 
 Turk to prefume to go into the Room, where they are 
 kept. We were told here by a Turk of good fafhion,that 
 Chrift was to defcend into this Mofque at the day of Judg- 
 ment, as Mahomet was to do into that otjerujakw. But 
 the ground, and reafon of this tradition, I could not learn. 
 
 From the Church we went to the Caftle, which Hands 
 about two furlongs diftant, towards the Weft. It is a good 
 
 buildinu 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 1 2 j- 
 
 building of the ruflick manner; in length it is three hun- 
 dred and forty paces, and in breadth iomewhat iefs, we 
 were admitted but juifc within the Gate, where we faw 
 ftore of ancient Arms, and Armour, the fpoiles of the 
 Chriflians in former times. Amongft the Artillery was an 
 old Roman Balifta; but this was a place not long to be 
 gaz'd upon by fuch as we. At the Eaft end of the Caftle 
 there hangs down in the middle of the Wall a fhort Chain 
 cut in Stone, of what ufe I know not, unleis to boalt the 
 skill of the Artificer. 
 
 Leaving this place we went to view the Bazars, which 
 we found crowded with people, but dcf titute of" any thing 
 elfe worth obferving. 
 
 Tburfday April 29. 
 
 Very early this morning we went to fee the yearly great 
 Pomp of the Hadgees letting out on their Pilgrimage to 
 tSMecca: OJlan, Bafla of Tripoli being appointed their 
 Emir or Conductor for this year. For our better fecurity 
 from the infolencies of the over zealous Votaries, we hired 
 a fhop in one of the Bazars thro' which they were to pafs. 
 
 In this famous Cavalcade there came firft forty fix Del- 
 lees, that is Religious Madmen , carrying each a filk 
 Streamer, mixt either of red and green, or of yellow and 
 green. After thefe came three Troops of Segmen, an or- 
 der of Souldiers amongft the Turks, and next to them 
 fome Troops of Spahees, another order of Souldiery. Thefe 
 were fbllow'd by eight Companies of Mugrubines (fo the 
 Turks call the Barbarofes) on foot, thefe were fellows of 
 a very formidable afpedt, and were defign'd to be left in 
 a Garnfon, maintain'd by the Turks iome where in the 
 Defert of Arabia, and rehev'd every year with firefh men. 
 In the midft of the Mugrubines there pafs'd fix fmall pieces 
 of Ordnance. In the next place came on foot the Souldiers 
 of the Caftle of 'JDama/cus, fantaftically Arm'd with Coats 
 of Maile, Gauntlets, and other pieces of old Armour. Thefe 
 were follow'd by two Troops of Janizaries, and their 
 Aga, all mounted. Next were brought the Bafla 's two 
 
 Horfe 
 
n6 A journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 
 Horfe Tails, uther'd by his Aga of the Court, and next 
 after the Tails follow 'd fix led Horfes, all of excellent 
 fhape, and nobly furnifh'd. Over the Saddle there was 
 a girt upon each led Horfe, and a large Silver Target 
 guildtd with Gold. 
 
 After thefe Horles came the Mahmal. This is a large 
 Pavillion of black filk, pitch'd upon the back of a very 
 great Camel, and fpreading it's Curtains all round about 
 the Beaft down to the ground. The Pavilion is adorn 'd 
 at top with a Gold Ball, and with Gold Fringes round 
 about. The Camel that carries it wants not alfb his Or- 
 naments of large ropes of Beads, Fifh-fhells, Fox- tails, and 
 other fuch fantaftical finery hang'd upon his Head, Neck, 
 and Legs. All this is defign'd for the State of the Alcoran, 
 which is placed with great reverence under the Pavilion, 
 where it rides in State both to, and from Mecca. The 
 Alcoran is accompanied with a rich new Carpet which 
 the Grand Signieur fends every year for the covering of 
 Mahomet's Tomb, having the old one brought bacx in 
 return for it, which is elteem'd of an ineftimable value, 
 after having been fo long next Neighbour to the Prophet's 
 rotten bones. The Beaft which carries this facred Load, 
 has the privilege to be exempted from all other burdens 
 ever after. 
 
 After the Mahmal, came another Troop, and with them 
 the BafTa himfelf^ and laft of ail twenty Loaded Camels, 
 with which the tram ended, having been three quarters 
 of an hour in palling. 
 
 Having obferv'd what we could of this (hew, (which 
 perhaps was never feen by Franks before) we went to 
 view fome other Cunofities. The firft place we came to 
 was the Ager 'Damafcenus , a long beautiful Meadow, juft 
 without the City, on the Weft fide. It is divided in the 
 middle by that branch of the River Barrady which fup- 
 plys the City, and is taken notice of, becaufe of a tradition 
 Current here, that Adam was made of the Earth of this 
 Field. 
 
 Adjoyning to the Ager "Damafcenus is a large Hofpital : 
 
 It 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 127 
 
 It has within it a pleafant fquare Court, enclos'd on the 
 South fide by a (lately Moique, and on itV other fides 
 with Cloiiters, and Lodgings, of no contemptible ftructure. 
 
 Returning from hence homeward, we were (hewn by 
 the way a very beautiful Bagnio ; and not far from it a 
 Coffee-houfe capable of entertaining four or five hundred 
 people. It had two Quarters for the reception of Guefts; 
 one proper for the Summer, the other for the Winter. 
 That delign'd for the Summer was a fmall Ifland, warn 'd 
 all round with a large fwift Stream and fhaded over head 
 with Matts and Trees. We found here a Multitude of 
 Turks upon the Duans, regaling themfelves in this plea- 
 fant place, there being nothing which they behold with 
 fb much delight as greens and water ; to which if a beauti- 
 ful face be added, they have a proverb, that all three to- 
 gether make a perfect Antidote againffc Melancholy. 
 
 In the afternoon, we went to vifit the Houfe which, 
 they fay, was fome time the Houfe of Ananias , the re- 
 ftorer of fight to St. Paul. Afis 9. 17. The place fhewn, 
 for it is ( according to the old rule ) a fmall Grotto or Cel- 
 lar, affording nothing remarkable but only that there are 
 in it a Chriflian Altar, and a Turkifh praying place feated 
 nearer to each other, than well agrees with the nature of 
 fiich places. 
 
 Our next walk, was out of the Eafl Gate, in order to 
 fee the place, they fay, of St. Tauh Viiion, and what elfe 
 is obfervable on that tide. The place of the Viiion is about 
 half a mile diliant from the City Eaflward. It is clofe by 
 the way fide, and has no building to diftinguiih it, nor 
 do I believe it ever had. Only there is a fmall Rock or 
 heap of Gravel which ferves to point out the place. 
 
 About two furlongs nearer the City, is a fmall Timber 
 Structure refembling the Cage of a Country Burrough. 
 Within it, is an Altar eredted, there you are told, the 
 holy Apoltle, relied for fome time in his way to the City, 
 after his Vifion. Afts 9. 8. 
 
 Being return'd to the City, we were ihewn the Gate at 
 which St. Tanl was let down in a Busket, Afts p. 2f. 
 
 This 
 
128 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem. 
 
 This Gate is about two furlongs diftant from the EaflGate, 
 and is at prefent wall'd up. 
 
 Entnng again into the City we went to fee the great 
 Patriarch redding in this City. He was a perfon of about 
 forty years of age. The place of his refidence was mean, 
 and his perfon, and converle promis'd not any thing ex- 
 traordinary. He told me there were more than one thou- 
 fand two hundred Souls of the Greek Communion in that 
 City. 
 
 Friday April 30. 
 
 The next day we went to vifit the Gardens, and to fpend 
 a day there. The place where we difpos'd of our ielves 
 was about a mile out of Town. It afforded us a very plea- 
 iant Summer-houfe, having a plentiful ftream of water 
 running thro' it. The Garden was thick fet with Fruit 
 Trees, but without any art or order. Such as this are all 
 the Gardens hereabouts : onely with this odds, that fome 
 of them have their Summer-houfes more fplendid than 
 others, and their waters improv'd into greater variety of 
 Fountains. 
 
 In viliting thefe Gardens, Franks are obliged either to 
 walk on foot, or eife to ride upon Afles : the infolence 
 of the Turks not allowing them to mount on Horfe-back. 
 To ferve them upon thefe occalions here are Hackney Afles 
 always ftandmg ready equipp'd for hire. When you are 
 mounted the Matter of the Afs follows his Beaft to the 
 place whither you are difpos'd to go : Goading him up 
 behind with a iharp painted ftick ; which makes him dil- 
 patch his ftage with great expedition. It is apt fome- 
 times to give a little diigult to the generous Traveller to 
 be fbrc'd to fubmit to fuch marks of lcorn ; but there is no 
 remedy, and if the Traveller will take my advice, his 
 belt way will be to mount his Afs contentedly, and to 
 turn the affront into a motive of Recreation, as we did. 
 Having fpent the day 111 the Garden, we return'd in the 
 evening to the Convent. 
 
 * Saturday 
 
A Jou rney from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 129 
 
 Saturday May 1. 
 The next day we (pent ac another Garden, not far di- 
 flant from the former, but far exceeding it in the beauty 
 of it's Summer-houfe, and the variety of it's Fountains. 
 
 Sunday May 2. 
 
 We went, as many of us as were difpos'd, to Sydonaiia 7 
 a Gieek Convent about four hours diftant irom Z>ama/cus 7 
 to the Northward, or North by Fad: the Road, except- 
 ing oncJy two fteep alcents is very good. In this ftage 
 we pafs'd by two Villages, the firft call'd Tall, the fecond 
 t3ieneen. At a good diftance on the right hand is a very 
 high Hill, reported to be the fame on which Cam and 
 Abel ofFer'd their Sacrifices, and where alfo the former 
 ilew his Brother, fetting the firft example of Blood-flied 
 to the World. 
 
 Sydonaiia is fituated at the farther fide of a large Vale 
 on the top of a Rock. The Rock is cut with fteps all up, 
 without which it would be macceffible. It is fene'd ail 
 round at the top, with a itrong Wall, which enclofesthe 
 Convent. It is a place of very mean ftruclure, and con- 
 tains nothing in it extraordinary, but onely the Wine 
 made here, which is indeed molt excellent. This place 
 was at firft Founded, and Endovv'd by the Emperour 
 Jujiiman. It is at prefent poflcft by twenty Greek Monks, 
 and forty Nuns, who feem to live promifcuoufly together, 
 without any order or feparation. 
 
 Here are upon this Rockjj and within a little compafi 
 round about it, no lefs than lixteen Churches or Oratorys ; 
 Dedicated to fcvcral Names, The firft, to St. John; ie- 
 cond, to St. Taut; third, to St. Thomas ; fourth, to St. 
 Babylas ; fifth, to St. Barbara ; fixth, to St. Chrijiopher ; 
 feventh, to St. Jojeph; eighth, to St. Lazarus ; ninth, to 
 the Blefied Virgin ; tenth, to St. 'Demetrius ; eleventh, 
 to St. Saba \ twelfth, to St. Teter\ thirteenth, to St. 
 (jeorge\ fourteenth, to All Saints \ fifteenth, to the AJcen- 
 (ion, fixteenth, to the Transfiguration of our Lord: from 
 
 R all 
 
1 3o A yourney from Aleppo to J crufalem. 
 
 all which we may well conclude this place was held an- 
 ciently in no fmall repute for fanctity. Many of theic 
 Churches I actually vilited, but found them i'u ruin'd, and 
 defolate that 1 had not courage to go to all. 
 
 In the Chapel, made ule of by the Convent for their 
 dayly Services, they pretend to {hew a great Miracle, done 
 here fome years fince, of which take this Account, as I 
 receiv'd it from them. 
 
 They had once in the Church a little Pi&ure of the 
 Blefled Virgin very much refbrted to by Supplicants, and 
 famous for the many Cures, and Bleilings granted in 
 return to their Prayers. It happened that a certain Sacri- 
 legious Rogue took an opportunity to ileal away this Mi- 
 raculous Picture: but he had not kept it long in his cu- 
 ftody, when he found it Metamorphofed into a real Body 
 of Flefh. Being (truck with wonder,and remorfe at ib pro- 
 digious an event, he carried back the prize to it's true 
 owners, confefling, and imploring forgivenefs for his crime. 
 The Monks having recover'd lb great a jewel, and be- 
 ing willing to prevent fuch another difafter for the future, 
 thought fit, to depofite it in a fmall Cheft of Stone, and 
 placing it in a little Cavity, in the Wall behind the high 
 Altar, fixt an Iron Grate before it, in order to fecure it 
 from any fraudulent attempts for the future. Upon the 
 Grates there are hang'd abundance of little toys and 
 trinkets, being the offerings of many Votarys in return for 
 the fuccefs given to their prayers at this fhrine. Under 
 the fame Cheit, in which the Incarnate Picture was de- 
 pouted, they always place a fmall Silver Balm, in order to 
 receive the diftillation of an holy Oyl, which they pre- 
 tend, iflues out from the enclofed Image, and does won- 
 derful Cures ~m many diftempers, elpecially thole affedting 
 the Eyes. 
 
 On the baft fide of the Rock is an ancient Sepulcher 
 hollow'd m the firm Stone. The Room is about eight- 
 yards fquare and contains in it's iides (as I remember) 
 twelve Chefts for Corples. Over the entrance there are 
 Carv'd fix Statues as big as the Life, ffca/iding in three 
 
 Niches, 
 / 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 131 
 
 Niches, two in each Nich ; at the Pedeftals of the Statues 
 may be obferv'd a few Greek words, which, as far as I 
 was able to difcern them, in their prefent obfeurity, are 
 as follows. 
 
 ETOYCKD-- 
 IOTA £> AYTt 
 IU I A I P O C KAI 
 
 nreirKT riNH' tynh 
 
 Under the firft. Under the fecond. 
 
 I [OY] A 3> * I [A I 
 
 IT] niKOC 
 
 [K]AI AOMNCINA 
 
 IOYA & AHMH 
 TPIOC KA[I A[PI] 
 AANH rr[NH] 
 nANTAc enoioY[N] 
 
 Under the third Nich. 
 
 A Gentleman in our Company, and my (elf have rea- 
 fon to remember this place, for an efcape we had in it. A 
 drunken Janizary, palling under the window where we 
 were, chane'd to have a drop of Wine thrown out upon 
 his Veit Upon which innocent provocation he presented 
 his Piftol at us in at the window : had it gone off, it muft 
 have been fatal to one or both of us, who fate next the 
 place. But it pleas'd God to restrain his fury. This even- 
 ing, we return 'd again to 'Damafcm. 
 
 Monday May 3. 
 
 This morning we went to fee the Street calfd Straight, 
 AFts 0. it. It is about half a mile in length, running 
 from Eaft to Weft thro' the City. It being narrow and 
 the Houfes jutting out in feveral places on both iides, 
 you cannot have a clear profpect of it's length , and 
 flraightnefs. In this Street is fhewn the Houfe of' Judas, 
 with whom St. Taul Lodged, and in the fame Houfe, is 
 an old Tomb, faid to be Ananias % : but how he (hould 
 come to be buried here, they could not tell us, nor could 
 A T e guefs ; his own Houfe being fhewn us in another place. 
 However the Turks have a reverence for this Tomb, and 
 maintain a Lamp always burning over it. 
 
 In the afternoon, having prefented the Convent with 
 ten per Man for our kind reception, we took our leaves 
 of 'Damafius and fhap'd our courfe for Tripoli, defigning 
 in the way to fee Balbeck> and the Cedars of Ubanus. In 
 order to this we returned the fame way by which we came, 
 
 R 2. and 
 
132. A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 
 and crofTing the River Barrady again at the Bridge of 
 \Dummar, came to a Village of the lame name a little far- 
 ther, and there Lodg'd this night. We Travcl'd this after- 
 noon three hours. 
 
 Tuejday iSMay 4. 
 
 This morning we left our old Road, and took another 
 more Northerly. In an hour and a halfj we came to a 
 final] Village call'd Smic, juft by which is an ancient 
 Stru&ure on the top of an high Hill, fuppos'd to be the 
 Tomb of Ahel The Fratricide alio is (aid by fbme to 
 have been committed in this place. The Tomb is thirty 
 yards long, and yet it is here believ'd to have been but 
 juft proportion'd to the Stature of Him, who was buried 
 in it. Here we enter'd into a narrow Gut, between two 
 fteep Rocky Mountains, the River Barrady running at the 
 bottom. On the other fide of the River were feveral tall 
 Pillars, which excited our Curiofity, to go and take a 
 nearer view of them. We found them part of the front 
 of ibme ancient, and very magnificent Edifice, but of 
 what kind we could not conjecture. 
 
 We continued upon the Banks ol' Barrady, and c.ime 
 in three hours to a Village call'd Maday ; and in two 
 hours more to a Fountain call'd Ayn H Hawa, where we 
 Lodg'd. Our whole ftage was iomewhat lefs than feven 
 hours., our courfe near North Weft. 
 
 We dm [day May 5:. 
 This morning we pafs'd by the Fountain of Barrady, 
 and came in an hour and two thirds to a Village call'd 
 Surgawch. At this place, we left the narrow Valley, in 
 which we had Travell'd ever fince the morning before, 
 and afcended the Mountain on the left hand. Having fpent 
 in crofting it two hours, we arrived a fecond time in the 
 Valley of Bucca, here fleering Northerly diredtly up the 
 Valley, we arriv'd in three hours at Balbeck- Our ftage 
 this day was nearfeven hours, and our courfe near about 
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A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 133 
 
 At Balbeck we pitch'd at a place lefs than half a mile 
 diftant from the Town, Eaftward, near a plentiful, and 
 delicious Fountain, which grows i mined iatly into a Brook, 
 and running down to Balbeck adds no final! pleafure, and 
 convenience to the place. 
 
 In the afternoon we walked out to fee the City. But 
 we thought fit, before we enter'd to get Licenfe of the 
 Governour and to proceed with all caution. Being taught 
 this neceffary care by the example of fome worthy Englifh 
 Gentlemen of our Factory, who vifiting this place in the 
 year 1680, in their return from Jei uj'alem, and fufpe&ing 
 no mifchief were bafely intrigu'd by the people here, and 
 forc'd to redeem their Lives at a great fum of" Money. 
 
 Balbeck is fuppos'd to be the ancient Heliopolis, or City 
 of the Sun, for that the word imports. It's prefent Arab, 
 which is perhaps it's moft ancient name, inclines to the 
 fame importance. For Baal, tho' it imports all Idols in 
 general, of whatever fex or condition, yet it is very often 
 appropriated to the Sun, the Soveraign Idol of this 
 Country. 
 
 The City enjoys a moft delightful and commodious fi~ 
 tnation, on the EaR fide of the Valley of Bucca. It is of 
 a fquare figure compafs'd with a tolerable good Wall, in 
 which are Towers all round at equal diftances. It extends, 
 as far as I could guefs by the eye about three furlongs on 
 a fide. It's Houfes within are all of the meaneft ftructurc, 
 fuch as are ufually feen in TurkiQi Villages. 
 
 At the South Weft fide of the City is a noble ruin, be- 
 ing the only Curiofity for which this place is wont to be 
 vifited. It was anciently a Heathen Temple, together 
 with fbme other Edifices belonging to it, all truly Magni- 
 ficent : but in latter times thefe ancient Structures have 
 been patch'd, and piee'd up with feveral other buddings, 
 converting the whole into a Caftle, under which name it 
 goes at this day. The adje&itious buildings are of no mean 
 Architecture, but yet eafily diftinguifhable from what is 
 more ancient. 
 
 Coming near thefe ruins, the firft thing you meet with, 
 
 is 
 
134 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 is a little round pile of building, all of Marble. It is en- 
 circled with Columns of the Corinthian order, very beau- 
 tiful, which fupport a Corniih that runs all round the 
 i'lruclure of no ordinary Hate and beauty. This part of 
 it that remains is at prefent in a very tottering condition, 
 but yet the Greeks ufe it for a Church. And 'twere well if 
 the danger of it's falling which perpetually threatens, 
 would excite thole people to ufe a little more fervour in 
 their prayers, than they generally do ; the Greeks being 
 feemingly the moil undevout, and negligent at their Di- 
 vine Service, of any fort of people in the Chriflian World. 
 
 From this ruin you come to a large firm pile of build- 
 ing, which tho' very iofty and composed of huge fquare 
 flones, yet, I take to be part of the adjeclitious work, for 
 one fees in the infide fbme fragments of Images in the 
 walls, and flones with Roman Letters upon them let the 
 wrong way. In one ftone we found graven divis. and 
 an another line, mosc. Thro' this pile you pafs in a 
 {lately Arch'd Walk, or Portico one hundred and fifty 
 paces long, which leads you to the Temple. 
 
 The Temple is an oblong fquare fixty four yards in 
 length, and in breadth juft half as much. Before it's en- 
 trance, which is at the North Eafl end, it had anciently 
 a n°ov*& or Anti-Temple, eighteen yards long but this 
 part is tumbled down, the Pillars being broke that fuflain'd 
 n. It is encompafs'd by a noble Portico, fupported by 
 Pillars of the Corinthian order, meafuring fix foot and 
 three inches in diameter, and about forty five foot in 
 height, confifling all of three Hones a piece. The diftance 
 of the Pillars from each other, and from the wall of the 
 Temple is nine foot. Of thefe Pillars there are fourteen 
 on each fide of the Temple, and eight at the end, count- 
 ing the corner Pillars in both numbers. 
 
 On the Capitals of the Pillars there runs all round a 
 flately Architrave, and Corniih rarely carv'd. The Por- 
 tico is cover'd with large flones hollow'd Archwife, ex- 
 tending between the Columns, and the wall of the Tem- 
 ple. In the center of each Hone is carv'd the figure of 
 
 iome 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 1 3 ^ 
 
 forae one or other of the Heathen Gods, or Goddeffes, or 
 Heroes. I remember amongft the reft a Ganymede, and 
 the Eagle flying away with him, fo lively done that it ex- 
 cellently reprefented the fence of that Verfe, in Martial. 
 
 IUaj'um timid'is unguibus h<ejit onus. 
 
 The Gate of" the Temple is twenty one foot wide, it's 
 height could not be meaiur'd, being in part fill'd up with 
 rubbith. It is moulded, and beautified all round with ex- 
 quifite Sculptures. On the nethermoft part of the Portal 
 is carv'd an Eagle, extending her wings two thirds of 
 the breadth of the Gate, and on each fide of the Eagle a 
 Fame. The Eagle carrys in her pounces a Caduceus, and 
 in her beak the firings or ribbons of" two wreaths, whole 
 other ends , are held and fupported , on each fide by 
 the two Fames. The whole is a piece of admirable 
 Sculpture. 
 
 The meaf'ure of the Temple within is forty yards, in 
 length, and twenty in breadth, in it's Walls all round are 
 two rows of Pilalters, one above the other, and between 
 the Pilafters are Niches which feem to have been defign'd 
 for the reception of Idols. Of thefe Pilafters, there are 
 eight m a row, on each fide, and of the Niches nine. 
 
 About eight yards difhnce from the upper end of the 
 Temple Hands part of two fine chanel'd Pillars; which 
 feem to have made a partition in that place, and to have 
 fupported a Canopy over the Throne of the chief Idol, 
 whole ftation appears to have been in a large Nich at this 
 end. On that part of the partition, which remains, are 
 to be feen Carvings in Relievo reprefenting Neptune, 
 Tritons, Fifh.es, Sea Gods, Arion, and his Dolphin, and 
 other Marine Figures. The covering of the whole Fa- 
 brick is totally broken down, but yet this I mult fay of 
 the whole, as it now ftands, that it flakes the mind with 
 an Air of Greatneis beyond any thing that I ever law be- 
 fore, and is an eminent proof of the Magnificence of the 
 ancient Architecture. 
 
 About fifty yards diflant from the Temple, is a row of 
 * Cor in- 
 
1 3 6 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufakm. 
 Corinthian Pillars, very great and lofty; with a moil: 
 ftately Architrave and Cornifh at top. This fpeaks it felf 
 to have been part of lbme very Augufl Pile, but what 
 one now fees of it, is but juft enough to give a regret, 
 that there lhould be no more of it remaining. 
 
 Here is another Curiofity of this place, which a man 
 had need be well alfur'd of his Credit, before he ventures 
 to relate, leaft he fliould be thought to ftrain the privilege 
 of a Traveller too far. That which I mean is a large 
 piece of the old Wall, or TlcelCoh^, which encompafs'd ail 
 theft f tructures laft defcrib'd. A Wall made of fuch mon- 
 itrous great Stones, that the Natives hereabouts ( as it is 
 ufual m things of this ftrange nature ) aicribe it to the 
 Architecture of the Devil. Three of the Stones which 
 were larger than the reft, we took the pains to meafure, 
 and found them to extend fixty one yards in length, one 
 twenty one, the other two each twenty yards. In deep- 
 nefs they were four yards each, and in breadth of the 
 fame dimenfion. Thefe three Stones lay in one and the 
 fame row end to end. The reft of the Wall was made 
 alfo of great Stones, but none, I think fo great as thefe. 
 That which added to the wonder was that thefe Stones 
 were lifted up into the Wall more than twenty foot from 
 the ground. 
 
 In the fide of a fmall afcent on the Eaft part of the 
 Town ftood an old fingie Column, of the Tufcan order, 
 about eighteen or nineteen yards high, and one yard and 
 a half m diameter. It had a Chanel cut in it's fide from 
 the bottom to the top, from whence we judged it might 
 have been erected for the fake of railing water. 
 
 At our return to our Tents, we were a little perplex'd 
 by the fervants of the Mofolem, about our Caphar. We 
 were contented at lait to adjudge it at ten per Frank 
 and five per Scivam, rather than wc would engage in a 
 long difpute at fuch a place as this. 
 
 Near the place where we were lodged was an old 
 Mofque, and ( as I laid before ) a fine Fountain. This 
 latter had been anciently beautified with fome handlome 
 
 Stone 
 
A Journey from jfleppo to Jerufalem. 137 
 Stone work round it, which was now almoft ruin'd, how- 
 ever it afforded us this imperfect Infcription. 
 TCONXei|lGPeiCJN Ilsg ONCOCYTIC TOCIIANN 
 
 EAeneiN ajeacokgn ooppecTeKAi neon 
 
 XPYCON nAPACXCsCCOCI BIOC T6 M€I~AC ' 
 YACOPXeNYN-PGCTinHrAION nOAY 
 EYXAICeeOAQTOYTOY OCIOYEniCKOnOY. 
 
 ThuYJday May 6. 
 Early this morning we departed from Balbeck, direct- 
 ing our Courfe ftraiglu acrofs the Valley : as we pafs'd by 
 the Walls of the City, we obferv'd many Stones Infcnb'd 
 with Roman Letters, and Names, but all confus'd, and 
 lome placed upfide down, which demonfhates that the 
 materials of the Walls were the ruins of the ancient City. 
 In one place we found thefe Letters rmiptitvepr, 
 in others thefe vari — , in another neris, in odiers 
 lvcil — and severi andcELNAE and firmij all 
 which ferve only to denote the refort which the Romans 
 had to this place in ancient times. 
 
 In one hour we pafs'd by a Village call'd 2>W, and in 
 an hour more went to fee an old Monumental Pillar a lit- 
 tle on the right hand of the Road. It was ninteen yards 
 high, and five foot in diameter, of the Corinthian order. 
 It had a Table for an Infcription on it's North fide : but 
 the letters are now perfectly eras'd. In one hour more, 
 we reach'd the other fide of the Valley, at the foot of 
 Mount Anti-Ubanus. 
 
 We imraediatly afcended the Mountain, and in two 
 hours came to a large Cavity between the Hills, at the 
 boitom of which was a Lake call'd, by its old Greek name, 
 Limone. It is about three furlongs over, and derives us 
 waters from the melting of the fnow. By this Lake our 
 Guides would have had us ftaid all night, alluring us that 
 if we went up higher in the Mountains, we iliould be 
 fbre'd to lie amongft the fnow : but we venture! that, pre- 
 fenng a cold Lodging, before an nnwholfome one. Having 
 
 S afcended 
 
138 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 afcended one hour we arrived at the fnow, and proceed- 
 ing amongft it for one hour and a half more. We then 
 choofe out as warm a place as we could find in ib high a 
 Region, and there we lodg'd this night, upon the very 
 top oi'Libanus. Our whole ltage this day was feven hours 
 and a half. 
 
 Libanus is in this part free from Rocks, and only rifes 
 and falls with fmall eafy unevennefles, for feveral hours 
 riding; but is perfectly barren and defolate. The ground, 
 where not conceal'd by the fnow, appear'd to be cover'd 
 with a fort of white flates thin and linooth. The chief 
 benefit it ferves for is, that by it's exceeding height, it 
 proves a conlervatory for abundance of fnow, which 
 thawing in the heat of Summer affords fupplys of Water 
 to the Rivers and Fountains in the Valleys below. We 
 faw in the fnow prints of the feet of feveral wild Beafts, 
 which are the fole proprietors of thefe upper parts of the 
 Mountain. 
 
 Friday May -j. 
 
 The next morning, we went four hours, almofl perpe 
 tually upon deep fnow, which being frozen, bore us and 
 our horfes : and then defcending for about one hour, came 
 to a Fountain call'd, from the name of an adjacent Vil- 
 lage, Aynil Hadede. By this time we were got into a 
 milder and better Region. 
 
 Here was the place, where we were to flrike out of the 
 way, in order to go to Canobine, and the Cedars. And 
 dome of us went upon this defign, whilft the reft chofe 
 rather to go directly for Tripoli, to which we had not 
 now above four hours. We took with us a Guide, who 
 pretended to be well acquainted with the way to Canob'me. 
 But he prov'd an ignorant director, and after he had led 
 vis about for leveral hours in intricate, and untroden ma- 
 zes amongft the Mountains, finding him perfectly at a lofs, 
 we were fore'd to forfake our intended vifit for the pre- 
 fent, and to fteer directly for Tripoli ; where we arnv'd 
 late at night, and were again entertain'd by our worthy 
 
 friends 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 139 
 
 friends Mr. Conful Ha/lings, and Mr. Fijher with their 
 wonted friendfhip and generofity. 
 
 Saturday May 8. 
 In the afternoon Mr. Conful Haftings carry 'd us to fee 
 the Caftle of Tripoli. It is pleafantly fituate on a Hill, 
 commanding the City, but has neither Arms, nor Am- 
 munition in it, and ferves rather for a Prifon than a Ga- 
 rifon. There was fhut up in it, at this time a poor ChrU 
 ftian Prifbner, call'd Sheck Eunice, a Maronite. He was 
 one that had formerly renounc'd his Faith, and liv'd for 
 many years in the Mahometan Religion. But in his de- 
 clining Age, he both retracted his Apoftacy, and dyed to 
 atone for it. For he was impaled by order of the Bafla 
 two days after we left Tripoli. This punifhment of im- 
 paling is commonly executed amongft the Turks for crimes 
 of the higheft degree, and is certainly one of the greateffc 
 indignities, and barbarities that can be offer'd to human 
 Nature. The execution is done in this manner. They 
 take a poll of about the bignefs of a man's leg, and eight 
 or nine foot long, and make it very fharp at one end. 
 This they lay upon the back of the Criminal, and force 
 him to carry it to the place of Execution. Imitating herein 
 the old Roman Cuftom, of compelling Malefactors to 
 bear their Crofs. Being arriv'd at the fatal place, they 
 thrufl in the ftake at the fundament of the perfbn, who 
 is the miferable fubject of this doom, and then taking him 
 by the legs draw on his body upon it, till the point of the 
 ftake appears at the moulders. After this they erect the 
 ftake, and fatten it in a hole dug in the ground. The 
 Criminal fitting in this pofture upon it, remains not only 
 ftill alive, but alfo drinks, fmoaks, and talks, as one per- 
 fectly fenfible, and thus fome have continued for twenty 
 four hours, but generally after the tortur'd wretch has re- 
 main'd in this deplorable, and ignominious pofture, an 
 hour or two, fome one of the ftanders by is permitted to 
 give him a gratious ftab to the heart. So putting an end 
 to his unexprefTible mifery. 
 
 S 2 Sunday 
 
1 40 A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 Sunday tjMay 9. 
 
 Defpairing of any other opportunity, I made another 
 attempt this day to fee the Cedars and Canobine. Having 
 gone for three hours acrofs the Plain of Tripoli, I arriv'd 
 at the foot of Libanus, and from thence continually af- 
 cending, not without great fatigue came in four hours 
 and a half to a fmall Village call'd Eden, and in two 
 hours and a half more to the Cedars. 
 
 Thefe noble Trees grow amongft the fnow near the 
 highefr. part of Lebanon, and are remarkable as well for 
 their own age and largenefs,as for thofe frequent allufions 
 made to them in the word of God. Here are fbme of 
 them very old, and of a prodigious bulk; and others 
 younger of a fmaller fize. Of the former I could reckon 
 up only fixteen; the latter are very numerous. I mea- 
 fur'd one of the largeft, and found it twelve yards fix 
 inches in girt, and yet found, and thirty feven yards in 
 the fpread of its boughs. At about five or fix yards from 
 the ground, it was divided into five Limbs, each of which 
 was equal to a great Tree. 
 
 After about half an hour fpent in furveying this place, 
 the Clouds began to thicken, and to fly along upon the 
 ground, which fo obfcur'd the Road, that my Guide was 
 very much at a loft to find our way back again. We ram- 
 bled about for feven hours thus bewildred, which gave 
 me no fmall fear of being fbrc'd to fpend one night more 
 at Libunus. But at lait, after a long exercife of pains and 
 pmience, we arriv'd at the way that goes down to Cano- 
 bine ; where I arriv'd by that time it was dark, and found 
 a kind reception, anfwerable to the great need I had of 
 it, after fo long a fatigue. 
 
 Canobine is a Convent of the Maronitcs, and the Seat 
 of the Patriarch, who is at prefent F. Siephanus Edenenfis 
 a Per fbn of great learning and humanity. It is a very 
 mean ftruch re, but it's fituation is admirably adapted for 
 retirement and devotion, for there is a very deep rupture 
 111 the fide of Lib an us, running at leafl feven hours travel 
 
 directly 
 
A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 1 41 
 
 directly up into the Mountain. It is on both fides, ex- 
 ceeding fteep and high, cloth'd with fragrant greens from 
 top to bottom, and every where refrefh'd with Fountains, 
 falling down from the Rocks in pleafant Cafcades ; the 
 Ingenious work of Nature. Thefe Streams, all uniting 
 at the bottom, make a full and rapid Torrent, whole 
 agreeable murmuring is heard all over the place, and adds 
 no fmall pleafure to it. Canobine is feated on the North 
 fide of this Chafm, on the f tcep of the Mountain, at about 
 the midway between the top and the bottom. It ftands at 
 the mouth of a great Cave, having a few fmall Rooms 
 fronting outward, that enjoy the light of the Sun: the 
 reft are all under ground. It had for it's Founder the 
 Emperour Theodofius the Great, and tho' it has been fe- 
 veral times rebuilt, yet the Patriarqh alfur'd me, the Church 
 was of the Primitive Foundation. But whoever built it } 
 it is a mean Fabrick, and no great credit to it's Founder. 
 It ftands in the Grot, but fronting outwards receives a 
 little light from that fide. In the fame fide there were 
 alfo hang'd in the wall two fmall Bells, to call the Monks 
 to their devotions, a privilege allow'd no where elfe in 
 this Country, nor would they be fuffer'd here, but that 
 the Turks are far enough off from the hearing of them. 
 
 The Valley of Canobitie was anciently, ( as it well de- 
 ferves ) very much refbrted to for religious retirement. 
 You fee here ftill Hermitages, Cells, Monafteries, almofr, 
 without number. There is not any little part of Rock, 
 that jets out upon the fide of the Mountain, but you ge- 
 nerally fee fome little Structure upon it, for the reception 
 of Monks and Hermits : tho' few or none of them are now 
 Inhabited. 
 
 <jMunday May 10. 
 
 After dinner, I took my leave of the Patriarch, and 
 return'd to Tripoli. I fleer'd my Courfe down by a nar- 
 row oblique path cut in the fide of the Rupture, and found 
 it three hours before I got clear of the Mountain, and three 
 more afterwards before I came to Tripoli 
 
 Tuefday 
 r 
 
j 4 z A Journey from Aleppo to Jerufalem. 
 
 Tuefday <Stfay 1 1. 
 This day we took our leaves of our worthy Tripoli 
 friends, in order to return for Aleppo. We had fome de- 
 bate with our felves, whether we fhould take the fame 
 way by which we came, when outward bound, or a new 
 one by Emijla Hempfe and Hamal But we had notice 
 of fome diflurbances upon this latter Road ; fo we con- 
 tented our felves to return by the fame way we came, for 
 having had enough by this time both of the pleafure, and 
 of the fatigue of Travelling, we were willing to put an 
 end to both, the neareft and fpeediefl; way. Returning 
 therefore by our former flages without any notable altera- 
 tion, or occurrence, we came in eight days to the Honey 
 Kane y at which place we found many of our Akppine 
 friends, who having heard of our drawing homeward 
 were come out to meet us, and welcome us home. Having 
 dined together, and congratulated each other upon our 
 happy reunion, we went onward the fame evening to 
 Aleppo. 
 
 Thus by Gods infinite mercy and protection, we were 
 reftor'd all in fafety to our refpcdtive Habitations. And 
 here before I conclude, I cannot but take notice of one 
 thing more, which I fhould earneftly recommend to the 
 devout and grateful remembrance of every Perfon, engaged 
 in this Pilgrimage, viz. that amongil ib great a company 
 as we were, amidft fuch a multiplicity of dangers and ca- 
 fualties, fuch variety of Food, Airs, and Lodgings, very 
 often none of the befc ; there was no one of us that came 
 to any ill accident throughout our whole Travels, and, 
 only one that fell fick by the confequences of the Jour- 
 ney, after our return, which I efteem the lefs diminution 
 to fo lingular a mercy, in regard that amongfl fo many of 
 my dear friends, and fellow Travellers, it fell to my own 
 {hare to be the fufierer. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
Since the Book was Trintedojf, the two 
 following Letters, relating to the fame 
 Subjeff, were Communicated by the 
 Reverend Mr. Osborn Fellow oflLxe- 
 ter College ; to whom they were fent 
 by the Author, in Anfwer to fome 
 Queflions proposdbjy Him. 
 
 81%, 
 
 Receiv'd yours of June 27. 169 8. and retum'd 
 you an Anfwer to it in brief, about three 
 months fince, promifing to fiipply what 
 was then wanting, at fbme other opportu- 
 nity, which promife I mall now make good. You 
 defired an Account of the Turks, and of Our way 
 of living amongft them. As to the former, ic 
 would fill a Volume to write my whole thoughts 
 about them. I fhall only tell you at prefent, 
 that I think they are very far from agreeing 
 with that Character which is given of them in 
 Chriftendom ; efpecially for their exacl: Juftice, 
 Veracity, and other Moral Vertues, upon account 
 of which , 1 have fbmetimes heard them men- 
 tion'd with very extravagant Commendations; 
 as tho' they far exceeded Chriftian Nations. Bu$ 
 1 muft profefs my felf of another Opinion : For 
 the Chriftian Religion, how much foever we live 
 below the true Spirit and Excellency of it, muft 
 
 T toll 
 
ftill be allow'd to difcover fo much Power upon 
 the Minds of its Profeilbrs, as to raifc them far 
 above the level of a Turkijh Vertue. "Pis a maxim 
 that I have often heard from our Merchants, 
 that a 'Turl^ will allways Cheat when he can find 
 an opportunity. Friendfhip, Generofity, and 
 Wit (in the Englijh notion) and delightful Con- 
 verfe, and all the Qualities of a refin d and in- 
 genuous Spirit , are perfect ftrangers to their 
 Minds ; tho' in Traffick and Worldly Negotia- 
 tions, they are acute enough: and are able to 
 carry the Accounts of a large Commerce in their 
 Heads, without the help of Books, by a natural 
 Arithmetick, improv'd by Cuftom and Neceffity. 
 Their Religion is fram'd, to keep up great out- 
 ward Gravity and Solemnity, without begetting 
 the leaft good tincture of Wifdom or Vertue in 
 the Mind. You fhall have 'em at their hours of 
 Prayer (which are four a day allways) addref- 
 ling themlelves to their Devotions, with the 
 molt folemn and critical Wafnings, allways in the 
 molt publick places, where moft people are pal- 
 ling ; with moil lowly and moft regular Proftra- 
 tions, and a hollow tone; which are amongft 
 them the great Excellencies of Prayer. I have 
 feen 'cm in an affe&ed Charity, give money to 
 Bird-catchers (who make a trade of it) teV^re- 
 jftore the poor Captives to their natural Liberty; 
 and at the fame time hold their own Slaves in 
 the heavier! Bondage. And at oilier times they'll 
 buy flefli to relieve indigent Dogs and Cats; 
 and yet curfe you with Famine and Peftilence, 
 and all the moft hideous Execrations j in which 
 
 way 
 
way thefe Eaftern Nations, have certainly the 
 molt exquifite Rhetorick of any People upon 
 Earth. They know hardly any Pleafure but 
 that of the fixth Scnfe. And yet with all this, 
 they are incredibly conceited of their own Re- 
 ligion , and contemptuous of that of others : 
 which I take to be the great Artifice of the De- 
 vil, in order to keep them his own. They are a 
 perfect vifible Comment upon our Blefled Lord's 
 defcriptions of the Jervijh Pharifees. In a word, 
 Lull, Arrogance, Covetoufnefs, and the moft ex- 
 quifite Hypocrify, compleat their Character. The 
 only thing that ever I could obferve to commend 
 in them, is the outward Decency of their Car- 
 riage, the profound Refpect they pay to Reli- 
 gion, and to every thing relating to it, and 
 their great Temperance and Frugality. The 
 dearnefs of any thing is no motive in Turky, tho* 
 it be in E?igland^ to bring it into Fafhion. 
 
 As for Our living amongft them, it is with ail 
 poflible quiet and fafety : and that's ail we de- 
 fire, their Converfation being not in the leaft 
 Entertaining. Our Delights are among our (elves, 
 and here being more than fourty of Us, we ne- 
 ver want a moft Friendly and pleafant Conver- 
 fation. Our way of Life, refembles, in fbrae 
 meafure, the Academical. We live in feparate 
 Squares, (hut up every night after the manner 
 of Colleges. We begin the day conftantly, as 
 You do, with Prayers ; and have our fet times 
 for Bufinefs, Meals, and Recreations. In the Win- 
 ter we Hunt in the moft delightful Campaign 
 twice a weeks and in the Summer go as often to 
 
 T 2 divert 
 
divert Our felves under Our Tents, with Bowl- 
 ing, and other Exercifes. So that You fee we 
 want not Divertifements ; and thefe all Inno- 
 cent and Manly. In fhort, 'tis my real Opinion, 
 that there is not a Society out of England, that 
 for all good and defireable Qualities, may be com- 
 par'd to this. But enough of this Confufion , 
 which I would have fhortn'd, and put in better 
 order, if I had had time. 
 
 March io. 16$ 
 
 
 
SIK, 
 
 
 AS for your Queftions about Gebaqts Pofte- 
 rity, and the Greek Excommunications, I 
 have little to anfwer j but yet I hope enough to 
 give You and your Friend fatisfa&ion. When I 
 was in the Holy Land, I faw feveral that Labour d 
 under Geha^ts Diftemper ; but none that coul'd 
 pretend to derive his Pedigree from that Perfbn. 
 iome of them were poor enough to be his Rela- 
 tions. Particularly at Sichem (now Naplofu) there 
 were no lefs than ten ( th&fame number that was 
 cleansd by our Saviour not far from the fame 
 place ) that came a begging to Us at one time. 
 Their manner is to come with fmall Buckets 
 in their hands, to receive the Alms of the Cha- 
 ritable : their touch being ftill held infectious, 
 or at leaft unclean. The Diftemper, as I faw 
 it in them, was very different from what I have 
 leen it in England; for it not only defiles the 
 whole furface of the Body with a foul Scurf: 
 but alfb deforms the Joynts of the Body, par- 
 ticularly thofe of the Wrifts and Ancles, making 
 them fwell with a Gouty fcrofulous ftubftance , 
 very loathfbm to look upon. I thought their 
 Legs refembled thofe of old batter'd Horfes, 
 fiich as are often fecn in Drays in England. The 
 whole Diftemper indeed, as it there appear'd, was 
 
 fo 
 
fo noifbme, that it might well pafs fortheutmoft 
 Corruption of the Human body on this fide the 
 Grave. And certainly the infpired Pen-men could 
 not have found out a fitter Emblem, whereby to 
 exprefs the uncleannefs and odioufhefs of Vice. 
 But to return to Gcha^i : 'Tis no wonder if the 
 defcent from him be by time obfcur'd j feeing 
 the beft of the [ews at this time of day, are at a 
 lofs to make out their Genealogies. But befides, 
 I fee no neceffity in Scripture for his lines be- 
 ing perpetuated. The term ( for Ever ) is you 
 know often taken in a limited fenfe in Holy-writ i 
 of which the defignation of Vhineas s Family to 
 the Priefthood Numb. zf. 1 3. may ferve for an in- 
 ftance; His Pofterity was you know cut entirely 
 off from the Priefthood, and that transferr'd to 
 Eli ( who was of another line ) about 300 years 
 after. 
 
 I have enquired of a Greek Pricft, a man not 
 deftitute either of Senfe or Probity, about your 
 other Queftion. Fie positively affirm' d it, and 
 produced an inftance of his own knowledge in 
 Confirmation of it. He laid, that about 15- years 
 ago, a certain Greek departed this Life without 
 Abfolution, being under the guilt of a Crime, 
 which involv'dhim in the fentence of Excommu- 
 nication, but unknown to the Church. He had 
 Chriftian burial given him, and about 10 years 
 after a Son of his dying, they had occafion to 
 open the ground near where his body was laid, 
 in order to bury his Son by him. By which 
 means they difcover'd his body as entire, as when 
 it was firft laid in the Grave. The Shrow'd was 
 
 rotted 
 
rotted away, and the body naked and black, but 
 perfectly found. Report of this being brought 
 to the Bifliop, he immediatly fufpecled thecaufe 
 of it i and fent feveral Priefts ( of whom the Re- 
 lator was one ) to pray for the Soul of the depart- 
 ed, and to abfolve him at his grave. Which they 
 had no fooner done , but ( as the Relator goes 
 on) the body inftantly difiblv d and fell into duft, 
 like flack'd Lime. And fo (well fatisfied with 
 the Hffed: of their Abfblution ) they departed. 
 This was deliver'd to me verbo Sneer dotis. The 
 Man had hard fortune not to dye in the Ro- 
 mifli Communion ; for then his body being 
 found (o entire would have entitled him to Saint- 
 fhip. For the Romanifts, as I have both heard 
 and feen, are wont to find out and maintain the 
 Relicks of Saints by this token. And the fame 
 fign , which proves an Anathema Maranatha a- 
 mongft the Greeks, demonftrates a Saint amongft 
 the Papifts. Perhaps both equally in the right. 
 
 Apr. 12. 1709, 
 
=F>T£€£rg9) 
 
 SPECIAL ' 3-5 
 IS5?? 
 
 GETTY CENTER LIBRARY 
 
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