THE HISTORY OF THE ANTIENT TOWN OF CIRENCESTER, IN TWO PARTS. PART I. \ THE ANTIENT STATE. jj » — ^ i \ PART II. j \ THE MODERN AND PRESENT STATE, 4 ^ WITH APPROPRIATE OBSERVATIONS, AND ILLUSTRATED \ WITH PLATES. j) > ■ i , More rightly if you know, the Fa& difcufs ; . If not, with Candor own the Truth's with us, \ SECOND EDITION, I \ A Printed and fold by S. Rudder, Dyer-ftreer, Cire.ncefter: Sold alfo byT. Stevens, in the Market-place, » \ . j \ M D CCC. t Price 6 s. Half-bound, and 5 s, 6d, in Uoards, PREFACE. X HE following is the hiftory of a town of high antiquity. The Britons called it a City before the Roman invafion, It became afterwards an emi- nent ftation of the Romans* and has fince been the fcene of many important tranfa&ions. A fhort account of it was publifhed in the year 1780, from fome of the papers which compofe this volume ; but that edition has been long fince fold off. Since that time the materials have been greatly augmented, under a variety 'of heads. A court of juftice and equity, taking cognizance of caufes arif- ing not only within the borough, but alfo in a large diftri6l of furrounding country, has been ere&ed, by a£t of parliament, which a£t our readers will find under the proper head : A re-difcovery has been made of a large fubterraneous Roman building, of which we have feen no authentic account in any of A 2 the IV PREFACE. the writings of our Antiquaries and Topographers, except in Mr. Rudder's Hiftory of Gloucefterftiire, which is too large and expenfive for the pockets of the generality of readers. Sir Robert Atkyns, and the learned and curious doctor Stukely, had indeed taken fome notice of it. before, but their relations were given from hearfay and conjecture, and are conlequently very erroneous; and what we have feen of others is altogether unworthy of notice. An ac- curate drawing of it has been taken, and we have given a plate from it to illuftrate the defcription, wherein we have endeavoured to inveftigate and af- certain its original defign and ufe. There are ftill confiderable remains of this antient Roman ftru&ure, and as we know not that anything exa&ly like it has been found elfewhere in Great Britain, that alone is a circumftance fufficient to excite the attention of the curious and inquifitive reader. We have had eafy accefs to whatever the inhabi- tants could communicate, and both the antient and modern hiftory of the town are confiderajbly enlarged and improved. The Yellow School charity is a benefaction fo noble and ample, as but few pariflies can boaft of: and we have inveftigated the ftate of it, from the books, to a degree of minutenefs which we hope will have beneficial effects, and anfwer a better purpofe than merely to fatisfy the reader's curiofity. Treating PREFACE. v Treating of the market, we have fubrnitted a few thoughts on the great dearth in 1795, and on the mode of marketing by Sample ; and we are truly forry to experience, in the prefent year, another in- ftance of the like calamity, to which our obfervations will equally apply. In our account of the tithings, we have introduced the method of floating meadow lands. In diflemi- nating this branch of knowledge we hope to be ufefuf, as the method we have defcribed is by many judicious perfons efteemed to be preferable to all others ; yet it has unaccountably happened, that Mr. Marfh.aU has taken no notice of it in his Rural Economy of Gloucefterfhire, tho' it has been pra&ifed as long,* upon as rational principles, and with as beneficial effe&s, there, as in any part of the kingdom. In the facts which we have related, great regard has been paid to accuracy and fidelity, without which hiftory would be of no value; and we have even taken care to copy the monumental infcriptions corre&ly, the want of which, in a pompous and ex- penfive work, in part only delivered to the public, has been juftly complained of. Various obfervations and reflections arifing out of the fubje&s are occafionally interfperfed. Thefe * Mr. Wright's method of Floating Meadows, 1799. will VI PREFACE. will prove more or lefs acceptable, in proportion as they are juft and interefting, and as they are con- formable to the reader's tafte, and habits of thinking and acting; for no perfon, of the fmalleft knowledge in mankind, can entertain a doubt of the great influence of habit and ufage on the human mind. The operation of reafon is confiderably obftrutled in forming a right judgment of our own a&ions, to which we have bqen long habituated. A fmall obli- quity in the conduct of others, becomes familiar, and lefs offenfive, by frequent iteration ; and modes of thinking, however unjuft, having long paffed current, are in fome meafure fanctioned by time. If we have combated any fuch veteran attachments, in treating of the borough, and election practices, we fubmit our arguments to the candid and well in- formed. If we elfewhere deviate from commonly received notions, and our opinions are found at vari- ance with the reader's, he will do us the juftice to believe, that they are offered with the belt intentions, and with a diffidence becoming the relation in which we ftand. We hope to be held excufable, at leaft, for our endeavours at moral improvement as opportunity prefented. Should this be productive of no further or other benefit, it may perhaps contribute fomething more than the generality of topographical writings, to the entertainment of other readers, befides thofe of the place which has given occafion to them. In PREFACE. vii In a multifarious undertaking, embracing fo many fubjcfts, perfection is not to be expected; but we can truly fay, that nothing is wilfully mifreprefented; :«r,d if at any time we fhould be found tripping, the candid reader will be mindful, that to err is the common faii- iiw of human nature, from which no mortal is exempt. In faying thus much, we hope not to be charg- ed with indecorum, tho' we are fenfible of the juftnefs of the observation of one of our befi poets, " That " it is a hard and nice fubject for an author to fpeak " of his work. It grates his own heart to fay any- <: thing of difparagement, and the reader's ears to 69 Grifmund's tower, and urns found there, 1 , with fome account of urn- burial, J CHAP. III. Of the collegiate and abbey churches, - - 86 Catalogue of abbats, ------105 Scite of the abbey granted to Richard } Mafter, Efq; with fome account of that £ 1 12 family, and their antient hofpitality, * Antient crofles CHAP. IV. Of the antient hundred of Cirencefter, "5 118 PART II. The Modern and Prefent State. CHAP. I. Salubrity of the town, - _ - ,_ Earl Bathurft's Seat, with a plate, - - 128 Oakley- woods, with a plate, - - - - 132 Streets, buildings, &c. with a plan, - - j 3 y Great x CONTENTS. Pages Great roads, frage-coaches, with a ftric- 1 lure on furious driving. - - - - 3 CHAP. II. Markets, fairs, trade, banks, with a diL ? > 149 fertation on the dearth in 1795, J Manor houfes deferted, a great evil, - - 179 CHAP.III.The hundred of Cirencefter, in its prefent (late, 180 Couit of requefts, with the ad of par- t liament for creating it, - - - - J 1 CHAP. IV. Of the borough, and right of voting, 205 The duties and indifpenfable qualifica- 7 2 tions of a parliament rnan, * Delufions and falfe notions detected, 215 Apoflrophe to candidates and electors, - - 218 Thefe obfervations not written for fuch 1 venal boroughs as Malmefbury, Bed- r 2I 9 win, and Shaftefbury, - _ - - Lift of burgefles, ------- 220 CHAP. V. Of the manor and other eftates, - - 223 Short account of Earl Bathurft'a family, 226 Tithinffs, The method of floating; ) . . c 2 37 meadow lands there, with three plates, ) CHAP. VI. Of the church, with an infide view of) r 2 45 the curious fouth perch, - - - j Monuments, and Infcriptions, - - - 262 Reflections on the obituary, - - - - 299 CHAP. VII. Charitable inltitutions, magiftracy, mili- ) tary aflbciation, and population, * THE HISTORY of CIRENCESTER. PART I. The A NT IE NT STATE. CHAP. I. i. Of the Name. 2. Great Events, &c. ClRENCESTER is a market and borough town in the county of Gloucefter, iituated in latitude 5 10 1 3 3°" longitude 90 miles weftward from Lon- don. It is 36 eaftward from Briftol, 33 north eaftward from Bath, and 17 fouth eaftward from Gloucefter. The town Hands on the fouth-eaft confines of Gloucefterihire, in a parifh of the fame name, ad- joining to the north part of Wiltfhire. It is watered by the river Churn, antiently called by the feveral B names 4 The Name. names of Ctrl, Cori,- and Corin 1 , and takes its name from that river, for the Britons called it Caer Ceri m , and Caer Cori " ; in whofe language Caer, which, in its genuine fenfe, mould be tranflated a Wall or Fortrefs, came at length, when ufed in the compofi- tion of the names of places, to fignify a Fortified Town. Ptolemy calls the town Polls Corlnlon, and the Roman name of it, as found in Ravennas is Corlnlum; but it is written Duro-Cornovlum in Antoninus's Iti- nerary, which, however, we conceive to have hap- pened by the miftake of fome tranferiber. and that in the original it was moft probably Duro -Corlnlum ; for Cornovlum^ in the fame Itinerary, is the name of Conway, in North-walcs. Thus confidered, Duro- Corlnlum' feems to be no other than the Britifti word Dwr, water, and Corln the name of the river, a little lengthened out with a Roman termination. The Anglo-Saxons, either from the Britifh or from the Roman name, called the town Eonneceajrne, Euninecea prne, Eynenceapqie ; upon which it may be'obferved, that ceaprne, fr° m tri e Latin Caf- trum, is nothing more than a tranflation of the Britifh 1 Coryn in the Britifh language fignifies the top, very properly applied to this river, which is the higheft fource of the Thames. m Cirrenceaftre adiit, qui Britannice Cairceri nbminatur, quae eft in meridiana parte Huicciorum. AlTer de rebus geftis iElfredi. Ed. Wife, p. 35. * Lombard's defcription of England. word The Name. 5 word Caer into the Anglo-Saxon language. But in a deed of the date of 1360, the name is written Cearncefter, and from thefe feveral forms, the ortho- graphy has varied, down to the prefent time, according to the learning or fancy of different writers. For fome ages paft, it has been fettled as it ftands at the head of this account; but in modern, vulgar, and collo- quial language, the town is commonly called Ciceter. It is faid to have been an antient city, built by the Britons before the Roman invafion ; and in a manu- fcript defcription of England, in the Sloan-library, (No. 2596) written by William Smith, a purfuivant at arms, it is afferted, that " Cirenceftef, commonly *' called Ciceter, ftandith uppon the river Churn, " which is the principalleft head that the Thamife " hath, and fpringeth in Cotefwold out of Cobberly " poole, fix miles ell from Glocefter. It is 8 myles <; directly weft from Lechlade, and was in tymes paft " a goodly cittie before Glocefter was builded." Confiftently with this writer, and with the accounts of many others of the beft credit, and greateft anti- quity, we find it to be a place of great refort and con- fequence, even before the Roman invafion, with roads branching from it every way, which probably recom- mended it to the Romans for one of their military ftations. Yet when thefe writers fpeak of it as a city, it is at this time uncertain what idea we fhould. form of it : for in Casfar's time, the Britons had no cities nor towns, in the fenfe we now underftand thefe terms. Their cottages, according to Tacitus, were made of B 2 flakes 6 The Name. ftakes driven into the ground, and wattled. And an affemblage of thefe, in their woods, fortified round with a kind of rampart and ditch, conftituted their cities and towns. Casfar fpeaks of them thus : Op- pidum autem Britanni vocant, quum filvas impeditas vallo atque foffa munierunt, L. 5. 1. 17. The Britons call that a town, when they have furrounded and fenced about their thick woods with a bank and ditch. Xiphilin, fpeaking of the Mseatae, or inhabitants of the now moft northern counties of England, alferts, that they had neither walls nor cities : And we learn from Strabo, that what paffed under the name of cities in Britain, were no other than groves. Thefe are alfo very refpeclable authorities, which arc not produced to impeach our antient writers, but that the reader may duly weigh the circumftances on both fides ; when they will probably be of our opinion, that the difagreement lies wholly in the different acceptations of the words Town and City ; for thefe difcordancies only mow, that the Britons applied thofe terms to places which the Romans thought undeferving of them. After the Romans had eftablifhed themfelves in Britain, they divided it into Britannia Prima, and Britannia Secunda ; and thefe again were fubdivided into fmaller diftricts, which were called after the names of their refpective inhabitants. Gloucefter- fhire and Oxfordfhire conftituted one of thefe diftri6ts, and was called the country of the JDobuni, becaufe in- habited Memorable Events. 7 habited by a people of that name. And tho* we find it not fo eafy to afcertain the degree of eminence which Cirencefter fuftained before the invafion by the Romans, we may venture to fay, that after they were fettled here, they built and fortified it in their own manner, and that it became the chief place * in the before mentioned diftri6t of the Dobuni. Being the metropolis of the diftrift, it was called Corinium Dobunorum, and became a very eminent ftation for the Roman army. Antoninus places it at the diftance of fourteen miles from Glevum, or Glou- cefter, in the thirteenth iter from Ifca, now Caerleon in Monmouthfhire, to Calleva, which doctor Gale will have to be Henly, the Calleva Attrebatum, or chief city of the Attrebatii. 2. Memorable Events. SOME fay that the emperor Conftantine was crown- ed king of the Britons at this place, whilft others in- fill, that York has a better claim to that honour. However, Cirencefter was undoubtedly a very coh- fiderable place in that emperor's time. For a feries of many ages after the Romans left Britain, that defpicable dynafty, called the Heptar- * Eorum vero [i. e. Dobunorum] prima civitas fuit Cori- nium, a Corinio fiuvio vicino appellata. — Corinium was the chief city of the Dobuni ; and it was fo called from the river Conn, upon which it fhnds. Leland's Itinerary v. 9, p. 32. chy, 8 Memorable Events. chy, fcarcely produced a man of letters, or a rational divine, venerable Bede excepted. There were no writers in thofe turbulent and barbarous ages, to at- tend to topography, and hiftory; and we know very few particulars of the tranfaclions which happened in them. The very few which have reached us, are to be found chiefly in the fcanty hiftoric remains of fuc- ceeding and ignorant ages, couched in the dry and detached manner of a journal, to which*, therefore, we muft have recourfe. According to the Saxon chronicle, in the year 577, Cuthwin and Ccawlin obtained a great viclory at Dyrham (near Chipping- Sodbury) over three Britifh kings, Commail, Condidan, and Farinmail, who had defended themfelves in thofe parts with great bravery againft the Weft-Saxons, but were then flain in battle, and the three cities of Gleawancefter, Cyrencefter, and Bathancefter, fell into the hands of the conquerors. And it may be added, from another authority, that Cirencefter was foon after- wards made a frontier garrifon againft the Mercians. But this place was of fo great confequence, that in the year 628, Penda, king of Mercia, endeavoured to recover it from the Weft-Saxons. . And meeting Cynegils and Cwicheim (the king and his fon) near the city, with great forces on both fides, a bloody conflict enfucd ; when, according to Huntingdon, both armies having abjured flight, the battle ceafed only from the darknefs of the night ; and the event not being much in favour of either party, they made peace Memorable Events. ^ peace the next morning. But the Weft-Saxons re- mained matters of Cirencefter, till Peada, the firft chriftian king of Mercia, and fon of Penda, won it from them in 656. From that time, tho' it is hardly credible that nothing interefting mould have happened here, for the fpace of two hundred years, yet we find little worthy notice till the year 878, when the Danes, un- der their king and leader Godrum, having been totally routed by king Alfred at Ethandune, now Edinton in Wiltfhire, made peace, on condition that he and thirty of his chofen followers, would be baptized, and that his whole army mould immediately leave the kingdom. Accordingly Godrum fet out from Chip- penham, and came to Cirencefter, which was then a part of Wiccia f, in the year 879, where they con- tinued for one year. We are almoft ready to conclude that this was the fame perfon whom Polydore Virgil and fome other monkifli writers allude to by the names of Gormon, Gothrum, Gurmund, and Godrum, calling him an African tyrant, of whom they relate this wonderful ftory : That in antient times, without faying when, he befieged this city with a great army for feveral years in vain : but fucceeded at laflt by the following ftratagem He ordered a number of fparrows to be caught, and wildfire and combuftible matter being t Cirrenceaftre, qui Britannice Cair-Ccri nominator, qua; eft in meridiana parte Huicciorum. After vit. iElfredi. Ed. Wife, p. 35. tied lO Memorable Events. tied to their tails, they were immediately fet at li- berty, and lighting on the houfes, fet the city on fire, at which time he entered and took it in the confufion. This ftory however, could not^be true of Godrum the Dane, if the teftimony of Alfer, and the Saxon chronicle may be relied on *, who mention nothing of the fiege, and fay pofitively that he remained here only one year. And indeed the ftory feems to have been fabricated after the model of Sampfon's Fire- brands; yet, to give it the better colour, a large tu- mulus or mount in lord Bathurft's park has been called Grifmund's-tower, and Chriftmas-tower, which we mail take notice of hereafter. We have not been able to trace this ftory up to its origin ; but Giraldus Cambrenfts, a credulous ilio' ingenious writer of the 1 2th century, takes occafion hence to call Cirencefter the city of fparrows. And Alexander Necham, one of the moft celebrated wits of the 13th century, writes of it thus : Urbs vires experta tuas, Gurmunde, per annos Septem. A city that experienced Gurmund's power For feven long years. * Anno 879, praefatus paganorum exercitus de Cippan- hamme ut promiferat, confurgens, Cirrenceaftre adiit, qui Britannice Cairceri nominatur, quae eft in meridiana parte Huicciorum; ibique per unum annum manfit. AfTer de Reb. Geft. JElfredi. Ed. Wife. But Memorable Events. i I But tho' Necham was a learned man, and a good poet *, we muft acknowledge that poetic authority is not in the higheft eftimation with us; and notwith- ftanding what Girald and fame other writers from him have faid concerning this long fiege and cunning ftratagem, we think the whole a pleafant ficiion only ; For which we have affigned further reafons under our account of Grifmund's-tower, at the clofe of Roman and other antiquities. This town has been honoured with the temporary refidence of princes; for in the year 1020 we find it recorded in the Saxon chronicle, that king Canute, upon his return into England, held a mycelgemot, or great council, at Cyrncefter, when duke ^Ethelword was outlawed. It was a place of confiderable ftrength and fecurity, and befides its walls, of which we mall have occafion to fpeak hereafter, it had a caftle, which flood on the fouth-weft fide of the town. And tho* it does not appear when, or by whom it was built, we have a certain account of its deftruclion : For in the reign of king Stephen, Robert earl of Gloucefter, one of the moft eminent perfons of his time, amongft his great exertions to reftore the emprefs Maud to the throne, muftered all his forces near this place, and garrifoned the caftle 3 but the king came fo fuddenly and unexpectedly upon him, that he furprifed the garrifon, took the caftle, and burnt it. This earl * Plato banifhed poets from his commonwealth, becaufe they corrupt the truth with lies. Hakewell p. 235. G Robert 12 Memorable Events. Robert was natural fon of king Henry the Firft, and fo half brother to the emprefs. He is fometimes called Conful, and was a perfon, above all others of that time, of fuch undaunted fpirit, as never to be dejected by misfortunes. He was efteemed a prudent, brave, and valiant prince; learned himfelf, and a patron of learning * ; qualities rare at all times in a nobleman of his high rank • but particularly in an age when knowledge and valour were thought incompatible ; and not to be able to read, was a mark of nobility. When king Stephen was taken prifoner, in the year 1 140, he would furrender to none but this earl. And when the earl of Gloucefter was taken prifoner in 1141, and by William de Ypre fent to Rochefter caftle, tho' an offer was foon made to releafe him for - the * The character of this great perfonage will be particularly interefting and acceptable to fuch of our readers who are not acquainted with it. His mother was Nefta, the beautiful daughter of Rhees ap Tudor, or Theodore, prince of South W ales. He was made firft earl of Gloucefter after the con- queft, and married Sibil, the eldeft daughter of Robert Fitz- Haman, with whom he was enriched with great poiTeflions. Lord Lyttelton, in his Life of H. 2. fpeaks of him thus : ' He * was unqueftionably the wifeft man of thofe times ; and his * virtue was fuch, that even thofe times could not corrupt it . e If, when the nation was grown equally tired of Matilda and ' of Stephen, he had afpired to obtain the crown for himfelf, < he might very poflibly have gained it from both ; but he * thought it lefs glorious to be a king, than to preferve his * fidelity and honour inviolate. He feems to have a£ted only from Memorable Events. ig the king, he would not hearken to it, without the emprefs's confent. At length, after fix months im- prifonment, the emprefs agreed that the king and he mould be fet at liberty, and this exchange, one for the other, was deemed equal. According to Mr. Tyrrel, his father left him 60,000/. in cafli by his will, a prodigious fum in thofe days. He built the caftles of Briftol and Cardiff, and feveral religious houfes, and died at Gloucefter of a fever. After his death, the emprefs's caufe declined very faft, the chief fupport being gone. But we return to the caftle. It has been juft obferved, that king Stephen fur- prized and burnt it ; but it was repaired very foon afterwards; far we find it in the poffeflion of the earl of Leicefter, whofe conftable, William de Dive, held it out againft the king for fome time, but at length furrendered it, to procure better terms for his mafter upon his fubmiffion. This caftle was afterwards garrifoned by the barons who took up arms againft king Henry the Third; but ' from the pureft and nobleft principles of juftice and duty, * without pride, without pafllon, without any private views « or felfifh ambition ; and to this admirable temper of mind, * he joined all the addrefs and extenfive abilities that are * peculiarly neceffary for the head of a party, who muft con- ' necl: and keep together great numbers of independent per- * fons, held by no regular bond of obedience ; conciliate their e different paflions and interefts, endure their abfurdities, * foothe their ill humour, manage their pride, and eftablifh * an abfolute authority over them, without feeming to exer- cife any but that of perfuafion.' p. 344. the Memorable Events, the king foon recovered it, and by his warrant in the firft year of his reign, caufed it to be entirely de- molifhed. Notwithstanding the demolition of this fortrefs, Cirencefter was {till confidered as a place of ftrength and refpectability. And when king John, by op- prefion and unprincipled conduct, had alienated the ^ffe&ions of his fubjefts, and many of the gteat barons took up arms againft him; * that kiri^ affem- bled a large army here to oppofe them, in the fix- teenth year of his reign. Again, * To revenge himfelf of his barons, whom he had pro- voked to refift him, he fent a bafemeflage to Murmeline king of Morocco, a mahomedan prince, poffeffing a great part of Spain, and exceedingly powerful, offering, if he would fend him fuccour, to hold the kingdom of England of him as a vaffal, and to receive the law of Mahomet. The moor, of- fended at this offer, told the ambafTadors, ' That he had lately * read Paul's epiftles, which for the matter he liked very well, * fave only, that Paul had renounced that faith wherein he * was born, wherefore he flighted John, as one devoid both * of piety and policy, and who valued liberty at a higher rate * than his religion.' It is faid, that in this reign the firfl: (landing military force was eftablifhed in Britain, alluding to the garrifon of Dover- caftle. All our hiftorians agree in the character of this prince, which is the very contrail, to that of Robert earl of Gloucefter. John was devoid of all principle, proud, cruel, and vindictive; perfidious, cowardly, libidinous and inconftant ; infolent in profperity, and dejedted in adverfity. He laughed at every thing which mankind in general look on as facred j and Mat- thew Memorable Events, 15 Again, in the year 1322, we find this the tempo- rary refidence of that unhappy prince king Edward the Second, who, according to Walfingham, kept his Chriftmas at Cirencefter, attended with an im- menfe number of nobles, knights, bowmen, &c. at which time he convened hither the great men of the realm, to confult of meafures to crufh the confederacy formed by the earl of Lancafter, and the lords of the marches, againft Hugh le Defpencer, who was the king's favourite; and foon after the whole royal army was affembled here. But it appears by the hiftory of this reign that the king was as unfuccefsful as perfe- vering. He and his party were oppofed by the queen and prince of Wales with a large body of Englifh, aflifted by a great foreign force, who at length took him prifoner and lodged him in Berkeley caftle, where he was murdered. Orlton, bifhop of Hereford is charged with promoting the king's death, by fending to the keeper of the caftle the following ambiguous fentence : Edvardum occidere nolite timere bonum eft. The ambiguity is well preferved in the following tran- thew Paris, who lived in this reign, and was an excellent and faithful hiftorian, finifhes his chara&er in three words : ' Faedatur Johanne Gehenna :' that is, in plain Englifh, 6 Hell felt herfelf defiled by John's admiflion.' In ftiort, a worfe prince fcarce ever difgraced any throne. Yet after all, we muft allow him the merit of being the firft Englifh king who perfected the coinage of pure fterling money. C 3 flation i6 Memorable Events. flation, taken from Dr. Gibfon's edition of Camden's Britannia ; To feek to fhed king Edward's blood, Refufe to fear I think it good. The fate of this king may ferve for a leflbn to all princes againft favoritifm, to which, as men, they are more particularly expofed. But this place is mod remarkable for the fuppreffion of the rebellion raifed by the dukes of Aumerle, Surry and Exeter, the earls of Gloucefter and Salif- bury, and their adherents, in the firft year of the reign of king Henry the Fourth." It was an exploit full of heroic enterprife. and executed by the townf- men only. Thefe noblemen had formed a horrid confpiracy to feize and alfaffinate the king at a tour- nament at Oxford, to which he was invited. The plot was committed to writing, and each confpirator had a copy figned and fealed by all the confederates. And Aumerle being at dinner with his father, the duke of York, and having the writing in his bofom, the duke difcovered and feized it, and having read the contents, ordered his horfe to be faddled irame- diatety. Sufpe&ing his father's intention, Aumerle rode full fpeed to the king at Windfor, and difcovering the confpiracy, obtained his pardon before the duke of York arrived. The other confpirators fufpecling the difcovery, raifed a numerous army to furprife the king at Windfor. But Henry having alfo aflembled 20,000 men, marched to give them battle, which fo difcouraged them, that they retreated to Cirencefter, and Memorable Events. 17 and encamped without the gates. The chiefs quar- tered in the town. But the mayor perceiving that the gates and avenues were unguarded, affembled 400 men in the night, feized the gates, and attacked the four noblemen and their attendants in their quarters. The duke of Surry and earl of Salifbury efcaped for fhelter to the abbey, where they were taken and be- headed on the fpot ; but the duke of Exeter and the earl of Gloucefter efcaped by the tops of the houfes to the camp, which the foldiers had abandoned, and fled. For the troops hearing a great noife and tumult of fighting in the town, which had been fet on fire by the rebel party, and concluding that a detachment of the king's troops had entered another way, were feized with a panic and betook themfelves to flight. The duke of Exeter and earl of Gloucefter were taken fome time after, and loft their heads in the fe- quel. The heads of Surry and Salifbury were fent to London, their bodies having been buried in Ciren- cefter abbey church; but the head of the latter was reftored, and his body removed to Buftlefham, now Bifham, in Berkfhire, where he had founded a priory for canons of the order of Su Auftin, dedicated to Chrift Jefus and the virgin Mary, and valued at the diffolution at 327/. 45. 6d. The king, for this great fervice done him by the men of Cirencefter, granted them all the rebels goods found in the town, and four does in feafon out of his foreft of Bredon, and one hogfhead of^wine out of his port of Briftol. And to the women, he granted fix bucks i8 Memorable Events, bucks in right feafon, and one hogfhead of wine out of the fame port : as may be feen more at large in the grants themfelves. King Henry the Fourth's Grant to the Men, &c> of Glrencejler. THE king, to all unto whom thefe prefents (hall come, greeting. Know ye that of our fpecial grace, and for the good and laudable and acceptable fervices which the men of the town of Ciceter have performed, in refilling the mali- cious attempts of Thomas late earl of Kent, and John late earl of Salifbury, and other traitors and rebels, who had traiteroufly taken up arms againft us and our crown, contrary to their allegiance ; we do give and grant to the men aforefaid, all the goods and chattels, in whofe hands foever they may be found, which did belong to the faid late earls, and the other traitors, and were found in the faid town when the faid earls and other traitors were there arretted by the men aforefaid; excepting all gold and filver, and money, and veffels of gold or filver, or guilded, and except all jewels of all kinds ; to hold unto the faid men of our gift. In witnefs whereof, &c. Given at Weftminfter the twenty eighth day of February, 1H.4. The Second Grant. THE king to all unto whom thefe prefents (hall come, greeting. Know ye that of our efpecial grace, and for the good fervice which our beloved liege-people and commons of the town of Cirencefter, as well men as women, have per- formed unto us, in the taking of the earls of Kent and Salifbury, and of others their followers, in the late rebellion, do grant unto the men four does in feafon, to be delivered unto them by our chief forefter, for the time being, or his deputy, out of our foreft of Bradon s and alfo one hogftiead of wine, to be re- ceived Memorable Events. ig ceived every year out of the port of our town of Briftol, by the hand of our officer therein for the time being. We alfo grant unto the women aforefaid fix bucks, to be delivered them in right feafon, by our chief forefter aforefaid, or his deputy, out of the foreft aforefaid; and alfo one hogfhead of wine, to be delivered to them out of the port of our faid town of Briftol, by the hands of our officer therein for the time being. This grant to continue during our pleafure. In witnefs whereof, kc- Afterwards, in the 4th year of the fame reign, the king granted to the town a court of Staple for mer- chandize, ere&ing a corporation of a mayor and two conftables, and others the commonalty, for the en- couragement of trade, by the execution of the Statute Merchant. But this charter, after a long fuit in the exchequer, was decreed to be cancelled 37 Eliz. When we confider the magnitude of this great fer- vice, in its objecl and confequence, we cannot but think it infinitely under-rated by the reward, and the king's dignity as much degraded by the grant. All thefe events {hew that the town was of good ac- count in the times we have been reviewing; and as we draw nearer to our own, we mall find that it has been the fcene of other remarkable trarifa&ions. Here, as it is in Corbet's Hi/lory of the Military Government of Gloucefler, was the firft forcible oppo- fition to king Charles the Firft, in the year 1641, by infulting lord Chandois, then lieutenant of the county, who was executing the commiffion of array. The D people 20 Memorable Events. people encompaffed him, and forced him to fign a paper, promifing that he would no more attempt to put it in execution. His lordfhip efcaped unhurt in his perfon, but his coach was cut in pieces. This place was garrifoned foon after by the parlia- ment's forces, and we prefent our readers with the following account of the fiege and taking of Ciren- cefter, publilhed by prince Rupert's chaplain. On the 21ft of January, 1642, prince Rupert marched from Oxford, with five regiments of horfe, his own troop of life-guards, and a confiderable body of dragoons and foot, and took with him four field- pieces to fecure his march. His defign was to relieve colonel Haftings, who was befieged in his own houfe at Alhby de la Zouch, in Leicefterfhire; but hearing in his march that the fiege was raifed, the prince turned his thoughts on Cirencefter, which had been fortified by the parliament, and was provided with a good gar- rifon, commanded by colonel Fettiplace. This town, by reafon of its fituation, had much ftreightened the king's quarters, and was of great confequence at that time. This little army not being thought equal to the new enterprize, the king was applied to for a rein- forcement, and fome battering cannon; and till thofe could be brought up, his highnefs, by eafy marches, palled through Warwickshire into Gloucefterfhire. On Monday morning the 30th of January, the van of the army paffed by Sudley caftle, which was pof- feffed Memorable Events. 2 i fefTed but two days before by a detachment from the garrifon of Cirencefter, and which was thought to be fo dependent on the fortune of that town, that the prince refolved to purfue his firft purpofe, and if he mould be fuccefsful, to leave the caftle to come in afterwards. This day, however, the prince ported his own regiment, with lieutenant-colonel O'Neal, and a ftrong party of dragoons, to keep watch on the Cirencefter fide of the caftle ; and at night when the main body of the army came up, the parties were all drawn off, and the whole army lay in the open fields near Hawling, about two miles from the caftle. On Thurfday morning the prince received a rein- forcement of dragoons, and a regiment of horfe under colonel Slater, with two eighteen pounders, and a mortar-piece to throw grenades. All thefe joined him at the rendezvous near Cirencefter. After his hish- nefs had reconnoitred the north fide of the town about Spital-gate, colonel Lunsford, with his dragoons, was appointed to attack that quarter, and lord Carnarvon's regiment of horfe was to fecond him, whilft Monfieur la Roche planted his mortar-piece within one hundred and fifty paces of Spital-gate, to act in conjunction with them. Things being thus difpofed on the part of the army, it may not be amifs, before we come to blows, to,fpeak a word or two of the fituation of the befieged. The town being pretty large, and efteemed the key of Gloucefterfhire, fome diligence had been ufed in fortifying it, which was indeed ftrong in its natural D 2 fituation 22 Memorable Events. fituation, being about half way round encompaffed with water, a great part with a high wall, and the re- mainder fecured by ftrong works. The gardens were divided by many low dry ftone walls, which may be confidered as a kind of breaft-works. The ftreets were barricaded with chains, harrows, and waggons. Each end of the high or main ftreet leading through the town was fecured againft the horfe with ftrong turnpikes. They had ere&ed two batteries, one of which was of two fix-pounders, on the fouth-weft cor- ner, which commanded Cricklade way. In Sir William Mafters's [the abbey] garden, which is on the north fide of the town, they oppofed a brafs faker to the mortar in colonel Lunsford's quarter, as was before obferved. And in the market-place they mounted an iron fix-pounder; which five were all their ordnance. The Barton-houfe, then called Giffard's, and a fquare high garden wall lined with mufketry, was another ftrong port of the befieged, at the north-weft end of the town. On the left hand of the Barton ftands a water mill, and about four hundred yards up the river Churn, at the lower end of Gloucefter ftreet, flood another. Both thefe mills had been ftrength- ened with walls and other works. The chief officers were colonel Fettiplace, (a coun- try gentleman) the governor, and lieutenant-colonel Carr, a Scotchman, on whom it feems was the prin- cipal dependance ; and who is faid to have declared, the day before the attack, that he would keep the town againft 20.000 men. The Memorable Events. 23 The prince leaving Lunsford at the Spital-gate, marched the main body to the Barton-field, on the north-weft end of the town, and after the neceflary difpofitions, gave the command of the right wing, confiding of four regiments of dragoons, fupported by Sir Thomas Byron, with the prince of Wales's regiment of horfe, to lord Wentworth. The left wing, compofed of colonel UfTer's'regiment, and about 400 men, brought in that morning by colonel W entworth, feconded by prince Rupert's own regiment, and his life-guards under the refpeftive commands of lieu- tenant-colonel O'Neal, and Sir Richard Crane, his highnefs took himfelf : and the command of the cen- tre, confiding of a body of 500 well-difciplined men, with colonel Lewis Kirke at their head, fupported by prince Maurice's regiment, was given to lieutenant- general Wilmot. The referve was committed to Sir John Byron, who with his regiment of horfe was to guard the rear. ■ T-he word was QUEEN MARY, which given, the order of affault was thus : A forlorn-hope of thirty mufketeers, drawn out of colonel Kirke's men, and headed by lieutenant St. John, were marched along by lieutenant-general Wilmot, who was to direct, them where to attack, between the Barton-houfe and the great manor * houfe, which was then belonging to the Poole's family, and being come almoft to the hedge of a clofe ground which flood between the gar- * Lord Balhurft's houfe now flands on the fcite of it. dens 2 4 Memorable Events. dens of thefe houfes, the general fent a meflenger to the prince, to defire the canon might be advanced, faying, ' that they were already almofl: in the hedge/ At that hedge, and the low wall beyond it, the fldr- fnifh began. Here lieutenant St. John was mot in the leg, and rendered incapable of advancing any further, but his men maintained a good fire againft the enemy ; and foon after, fixty men of the fame corps coming to the affiftance of the firft thirty, and thefe being again followed by another reinforcement under lieutenant-colonel Layton, after a few hot vol- lies, the townfmen were beaten from the hedge to the Barton garden-wall, and were purfued by the king's troops, who running clofe under the wall, flung (tones over upon the enemy. Whilft this was doing, lieutenant-general Wilmot led Kirke's whole regiment down the hill to the Bar- ton-houfe and garden-wall ; and colonel UfTer, with 400 men befides his own regiment, was fent by the prince to fecond him, who together attacked the houfe on every fide. The pike-men marching forwards to the lane, cleared the avenue which was obftrucled by a heap of bufhes, and fo entered the yard ; whilft colonel UfTer perceiving the garden wall (within which the enemy's mufketry flood) too high to be climbed on the front, found means to enter the garden on the back fide, where, and from the windows of the houfe, the enemy were {till firing at Kirke's men. At their entrance the king's men killed about fourteen, the reft ran away. Thus got to the houfe, the colonel, with Memorable Events. 25 with a fire-pike in his hand, fet fire to it ; and the fol- diers fired the ftacks of* hay and corn that flood about it, which made the place too hot and fmoaky to be tenable. The townlinen beaten out of the houfe, garden and works, retired with more hafte than order, by Cicely-hill, to their firft turnpike j the king's men purfuing clofely at their heels, made a confiderable flaughter. All this while lord Wentworth was warmly engaged in another quarter. His poft was to have fallen to the fouthward, on the right hand of Poole's mount * ; but mifled by the guide, they fell into the clofe to the left hand of the mount, where they were both flanked by the battery, and annoyed by the mufketry from the high wall before them. The officers thinking it very difficult to force this wall, drew to the left into the lane, and there joined colonel Kirke'smen, and with them entered the turnpike together ; for the enemy having been juft beaten from the fide-works that guarded it, the king's troops had burft it open, and made the paflage clear. Colonel UfTer marched thro' this turnpike, and placing a guard upon the bridge at the bottom of Cicely-hill, turned on the left up the mill-bank, to come at a body of the enemy collected together at another work ; but upon his approach, they fled and forfook their colours. * Now called Grifmund's tower, over the ice-houfe, in lord Bathurft's park. The 26 Memorable Events. The foot thus engaged, the horfe kept their ftatiorr. at the end of the town, where they were annoyed from Poole's battery, which played upon them incef- fantly. But colonel Innes having fent the prince notice that the turnpike was won, his highnefs order- ed colonel Scrimfour, with a fmall party of his own life-guards, to pufh into the town, who were imme- diately followed by the whole troop, which fell in before the foot, and drove all before them, killing many as they pafled. In the market-place, they found about 300 foot and 50 horfe, who fled upon the fpur. The foot getting into the houfes, fired out at the win- dows. The market-place thus cleared, and Sir Richard Crane advancing eaftward downDyer-ftreet, aSpanifh gunner ran out of the King's-head inn, to fire a piece of ordnance full upon the croops of the prince's troop; but was prevented by a gentleman that rode in be- tween the Spaniard and his piece, and piftolled him. The life-guards then pairing on to another turnpike at the end of Dyer-ftreet, difcovered a body of be- tween 2 and 300 of the enemy, in a walled clofe on the left; but the wall not permitting the horfe to come at them, Sir Richard Crane, fufpecling they might have fome near way to get into the market-place, and cut off* his retreat, retired thither himfelf, and made that part good till the foot came up. In his way he cut down many that appeared in the ftreet; and the foot coming in, they fearched the houfes, and fome of thofe they found were killed, the reft made prison- ers. Colonel Fettiplace, captain Warneford, and Mr. Memorable Events. 27 Mr. George, one of the members of the borough, were among' the latter. Hitherto the ftrong poft at the water mills, on the left of the Barton-hotife, where the enemy had placed a pair of colours, had not been attempted; but feeing the town was taken another way, they pulled down their colours, and retreated inwards to a bridge and chain. The horfe purfued them, but not being able to pafs the chain, the enemy faced about, gave them a volley, and kept their ground, till they were driven from thence by a body of foot who came to the affif- tance of the horfe. Here Mr. Payne, * a clothier in the town party, was killed with the colours in his hand. All this while, the garrifon were fkirmiming with colonel Lunsford and lord Carnarvon, at the Spital- gate ; but hearing of the town's being taken, they flung down their arms, and ran away with thofe whom Sir Richard Crane had left in the walled clofe. Colonel Lunsford forced the Spital-gate, and Sir Charles Lucas entered by a turnpike. At firft entering the town, the cannoniers and muf- quetiers fled from Poole's battery, leaving their colours {landing, which the prince ordered to be taken down ; and it is faid, that caiptain Seymour and his company forfook their guard and colours, at George's battery, before ever they had feen an enemy. Lord Carnarvon purfued the fuigitives to the fouth- ward, killed a few, and made many prifoners. Sir. * There is a punning epitaph for Ihin n the church. E John 28 Memorable Events. John Byron followed thofe that fled towards Crick- lade, killed above a hundred, and made as many pri- foners; among the latter, two clergymen, Mr. Stan- field and Mr. Gregory, minifter of Cirencefter. Prince Maurice purfued thofe that fled from Poole's battery, and fome of thofe that were firft overtaken were killed; but it being enough to proftrate to a lion, about three hundred of them falling before the prince's feet, bis mercy pleafed itfelf with making them prifoners. Great numbers of arms were taken in the houfes, and drawn out of the rivers, where they were thrown to prevent their falling into the hands of the con- querors, to the amount of 3000. All the five pieces of ordnance were found Handing in their places. On the part of the king, major Hutchifon and about twenty private men were killed, and lieutenant St. John fhot in the leg. On that of the town, the loweft computation is 300 killed, and 1200 taken prifoners, of whom 160 were wounded, to whom the prince fent his furgeon, doftor, and chaplains, the next day, to drefs and vifit them. In this affair, general Wilmot diftinguifhcd his judgment and valour. Colonel Layton's horfe was (hot through the neck, and major Windebank's was killed under him. It is obfervable that this account takes notice of only one perfon having been wounded of the royal party. That there fhould have been no more is very improbable, but, if true, fo much the better. We have Memorable Events. 29 have no pleafure in recording the deeds of blood and (laughter, and we fhudder to reflecl on cool and de- liberate carnage. What thinking mortal can read the detail of a battle, without lamenting the fate of thofe who fell ! without fympathizing with thofe who have loft their parents, their children, their hufbands, their brothers, and friends ! Quis talia fando Temperet a lachrymis ! - - - - We confider war in general as the fcourge of man- kind, wholly incompatible with rationality, and the chriftian fyftem ; and we lament, alas ! that princes fo frequently appeal to the decifion of power, fo dif- cordant to equity and juftice ! But to proceed : The town was afterwards made quarters, fometimes for the king's army, at others for the parliament's; and after the raifing of the fiege of Gloucefter, in 1643, tne earl of Effex beat up the king's quarters here, and drove Sir Nicholas Crifp and colonel Spencer, with their two regiments of horfe, out of the town, and in that action took 400 horfe and thirty cart loads of provifions, which were a feafonable fupply to his army. But we have feen no particular account of any fkirmilh between the two parties, fubfequent to the fiege. There is reafon to believe, however, that the (laughter was much greater than here reprefented. In Auguft, 1793, heaps of dead bodies, with the bones not much decayed, fuppofed to be fome of thofe who fell in flight at the fiege, were found about two feet under ground, on the fide of the road at Watermore 30 Memorable Events. Watermore, juft without the town, leading to Cricklade. The Revolution is defervedly confidered as a moft interefting epoch in the annals of Britain : And it is not a little remarkable, that this place is particularly diftinguifhed on that occafion alfo. As here was the firft oppofition in the county, at the breaking out of the civil war, fo here, likewife, in the year 1688, was the firft bloodfhed on account of the revolution ; when lord Lovelace, being on his march to join the prince of Orange, with a party of horfe, was attacked by a captain Lorange, of the county militia, animated by the duke of Beaufort, who was very zealoufly at- tached to king James. The captain was proprietor of Haymes, near Tewkefbury, in Gloucefterfhire ; and tho' both he and his fon loft their lives in the conflict, his men overpowered lord Lovelace, and carried him prifoner to Gloucefter jail, having flain fome unfortunate gen- tlemen at the fame time. Captain Lorange made choice of this town particularly, for the ground on which to attack the prince's party, knowing that the greater part of the inhabitants were implicit followers in the Beaufort train, and had imbibed the court principles of indefeafible right, and non-refiftance. And it has been remarked, that fome of their defen- dants and fuccefTors have diftinguifhed themfelves fince that time in the intereft of the Stewart family. Their attachment was ftrong in the year 1745, when they Memorable Events. they openly avowed their principles, and eftablifhed a fociety to further their views, which, however, were fruftrated in the defeat of the pretender's army at Culloden. Thefe facts, as well as others which have hap- pened on both fides the Tweed, as it were but yefte'r- day, may ferve to mow, what dangers men will face, and what rifques they will run, who are a&uated by real principle. To have the ftrongeft effecl, it is not neceffary that fuch principle be good and virtuous. It is fufficient to fuch effect, whether good or bad, right or wrong, that a man thinks it right; and if he be really fo perfuaded, his paflions in either cafe will be raifed to the fame pitch of enthufiafm. It was neceffary to notice thefe fa&s, as the hiftory of a place includes that of its inhabitants. It has been faid, but how juftly it is not neceffary at prefent to enquire, that the avowal of truth can do no injury, tho' the witholding of it may ; and as the clofing of this tophic here, might leave a falfe impreffion upon the mind of the reader, it is but candid to add, that the attachment of the inhabitants of this town to the Stewart family, has been long fince done away ; and that the few now living, who were then under its in- fluence, as well as the defendants of fuch of them who have paid the debt of nature, are fall friends to his prefent majefty. To attribute this change to a verfatile and un- fteady difpofition, would be to injure their character. Abandoning firft received principles, and firft leaders, tho' 3 2 Memorable Events. tlio' on convi£Kon of error, has been, and perhaps always may be, loudly condemned by defigning men, when it oppofes their interefts, and thwarts their de- figns ; and this has occafioned it to be too commonly underftood, by the ignorant vulgar, to be a kind of criminal defertion; tho' in faft, upon fuch conviclion, it is a moil diftinguifhing mark of a candid and vi- gorous mind. Men commonly form their religious and political principles upon the model of their parents and pre- ceptors, at a period of life but little devoted to think- ing. Things are taken much upon truft and confi- dence : And at maturer age, to examine what with fo much care and trouble has been taught, and has fo long patted for fterling; and to learn, if neceffary, fomething very different, feems a double and difficult talk, and requires more fortitude than falls to every perfon's (hare to accomplilh : Yet it is certainly our duty to examine principles, and to aft from convic- tion, with moderation and temper. This is not meant as a particular apology for the people of Ciren- cefter, who upon that account Hand in need of none; but are general fentiments which we flatter ourfelves will apply in all cafes. We juft now obferved that a political club or fo- ciety was formed here in the year 1745. This foci- ety ft ill exifts, tho' with very different views, in a fuc- ceffion for the moft part of new men. And it affords a linking inftance of the prevalence of cuftom, to which men often adhere after the caufe is done away: And Memorable Events. 33 And thus it happens, that tho' the exifting members are {launch advocates for the prefent adminiftration, one of their original fentiments, A fpeedy end to all our greivances, (ftrongly marking difapprobation of men and things) ft ill continues to be given at their weekly meetings ; and The duke of Beaufort, as for- merly, is a Handing toaft among them. But to re- turn from men to things : We fliall clofe our account under this head, by obferving, that the fummer alfizes for the county, in 1679, was ne ld here, by lord chief juftice Scrogs and Sir Robert Atkyns, on account of the plague or fome peflilential diftemper being then at Gloucefter. CHAP. II. Of the City Walls, Roman Hypocaust, Pavements, and other Antiquities. The walls of the city were built by the Romans, as appears by the feveral latin infcriptions on fome of the ftones, mentioned by Leland. They were about two miles in circumference, and remained entire in the reign of king H. 4. but were razed foon afterwards. 34 The City Walls, &c. afterwards. Leland traced the foundations round in the time of king Henry the Eighth, but even then there were but few veftiges remaining, upon which occafion he fell in with this melancholy reflection, in the words of the poet, ------- - Sic omnia fatis In pejus mere, ac retro fublapfa referri. Virg„ By fates decreed, to ruin all things run, And back to priftine atoms lapfe again. Leland was one of the vifitors fent by king Henry the Eighth to examine into the ftate of the monafteries, previous to their diffolution. He was a man of let*- ters, and a very judicious and inquifitive antiquary, to whom moft fubfequent writers on antiquities are much indebted for information, which the lapfe of time and the cjeftruction of papers would have ren- dered it impoflible by their own induftry to obtain. His language is a little antiquated, and often inter- mixed with Latin, but for the fake of fuch of our readers who may not underftand that language, we have given the Englifh. Speaking of the antiquities of the place, he fays, ' A man may yet, walking on * the bank of Churne, evidently perceyve the com- ' pace of foundation of towers fumtyme (landing in ' the waul. And nere to the place wher the right * goodly clothing mylle was fet up a late by the ab- 4 bate, was broken down the ruine of an old tower ( toward And other Antiquities. 35 * toward making of the mylle waulles, in the which ' place was fownd a quadrate (tone fawllen downe ' afore, but broken in aliquot frujlra, [in fundry pieces] wherin was a Roman inscription, of the c which, one fcantlie letterd that faw yt, told me, that * he might perceyve Pont. Max. Among divers * numifmata [coins] fownd frequently there, Diode- ' fian's be mod faireft ; but I cannot adfirme the in- ' fcription to have bene dedicate onto hym. In the * middes of the old town, in a medow, was found a c flore de tcjfellis verficoloribus, [a pavement of dice- ' like bricks of fundry colours;] and by the town, ' nojlris temporibus, [in our time,] was fownd a ' broken {hank bone of a horfe, the mouth clofed ' with a pegge; the which taken owt, a fhepard found ' yt fillid nummis argenteis. [with filver money.] In 6 the fowth-fouth-weft fide of the waul be lykelyhod * hath bene a cartel, or fum other great building, the * hilles and diches yet remayne. The place is now a c waren for conys, and therin hath be fownd mennes ' bones infolitce magnitudinis [of uncommon fize ;] * alfo to fepulchres ex fecto lapide [of hewn ftone.] e In one was a round veffel of leade covered, and in * it afhes and peaces of bones. Lei. Itin. v. 5, p. 65." And the fame author, in his Collections, obferves, that the abbat told him, he had found in the ruins of the old walls, ' Arcuatos lapides infculptos majufcuks * Uteris Romanis that is, in plain Englifh, * Arched * ftones engraven with large Roman letters/ F Doctor 3« The City Walls, Do£lor Stukeley vifited this place in the year 1723, and fancied that he could even then trace the old city walls quite round the town, of which we have no doubt; but antiquities give way to modern improve- ments, fo that all which remains of the wall at prefent, lies on the eaft and fouth fides, about a mile in length, covered with earth and rubbifli in fome places about ten feet high. A fmall part being uncovered in the year 1774, it was found to be eight feet thick, and what then remained of it, about three feet high, built with hewn (tone, ftrongly cemented with lime, fand, and gravel. A little within the old city wall, on the fouth-eaft fide of the town, is a pretty large tracl; of ground called the Leaufes, now garden grounds and corn- fields, belonging to Thomas Mafter, efq; where for many ages paft have been found antient carvings, inscriptions on ftones, pieces of Roman pottery, and teffellated pavements; with great abundance of coins, rings, and intaglio's, which have been long fince dif- perfed. From thefe circumftances, together with the name, do6lor Stukeley fuppofed the Leaufes to have been the Roman Przetorium; for Llis in the Britim language, fays he, fignifies a Court. The doctor's conjecture, that in this place was the Prsetorium, feems not altogether improbable, tho' he may be miftaken in his etymology ; for, in our opinion, the word Leaufes is only a flight variation from Leajes, which in the diale6t of this part of the country, is the fame And other Antiquities. 37 fame with Leafues, or Leafows, as ufed in other parts, from the Anglo-Saxon Lerpe, and pretty generally underftood to fignify certain pafture grounds, all ever England. Several authors have mentioned, and indeed they have only barely mentioned, thefe antiquities j but their accounts (of the Hypocauft in particular) feem to be collected from report and hearfay ; nor have they tranfmitted down to us fo many particulars as the fubje£ts deferved. We fhall, however, collecl from them what they have left us, and then fubjoin the refult of our own enquiry and obfervation, after a diligent furvey. Leland has left us no more than what we have al- ready quoted ; and Mr. Thomas Hearne f , his labo- rious editor, juft takes notice, in the 8th vol. of his edition of Leland's Itinerary, that he had feen < feveral ( coins which were found at Cirencefter, having a ■ figure with a Patera * in the right hand, and a palm ( branch in the left; and that fome time before the • year 1711, he had received an account of a Roman * pavement de tejfellis verjicoloribus, that had been dif- ' covered there fome time before.' t The following epigram on this man, ftrongly marks his tafte and induftry : Pox on't, quoth Time to Thomas Hearne, Whatever I forget, you learn. * The Patera was a veJTel to drink out of, ufed at public feafts and facrifices, Fa • Sir 38 The City Walls, Sir Robert Atkyns follows next in order. ' Here,' fays that gentleman, in his account of Cirencefter, * are often dug up in old foundations, a great many * anjjl great variety of Roman coins. There was ac- e cidentally difcovered, in a meadow near the town, g an antient building under ground. It was 50 foot * long and 40 broad, and about 4 foot high ; fup- ' ported by 100 brick pillars; inlaid very curioufty * with tefferaick work, with ftones of divers colours, 4 little bigger than dice : It is fuppofed to have been a bathing place of the Romans.' This is all Sir Robert fays, from whofe account the reader will not very readily underftand what part was fo curioufly inlaid ; whether the pillars, the whole building, or (as is moft likely) the pavement only. Then comes do6tor Stukeley, who has not compli- mented the good people of Cirencefter on their tafte for works of antiquity. c Large quantities of carved * ftones, fays he, are carried off yearly in carts * [meaning from the Leazes or Leaufes] to mend the * highways, befides what are ufeful in building. A ' fine mofaic pavement was dug up here in September « 1723, with many coins. I bought a little head, ' which had been broken off from a baffo-relievo, * and feems by the tiara, of a very odd fhape, like * fortification-work, to have been the genius of a city, 4 or fome of the Dea? Matres which are in old infcrip- 6 tions, fuch like in Gruter, p. 92. The gardener * told me he had lately found a little brafs image, I s . fuppofe And other Antiquities. 39 * fuppofe one of the Lares * ; but upon diligent fcru- 4 tiny, his children had played it away. Mr. Richar4 ' Bifhop, owner of the garden, on a hillock near his * houfe< dug up a vault fixteen feet long, and twelve 4 broad, fupported with fquare pillars of Roman 4 brick, three feet and a half high, and on it a ftrong 4 floor of terras. There are now feveral more vaults 4 near it, on which grow cherry-trees, like the hang- 4 ing gardens of Babylon. I fuppofe thefe the foun- 4 dations of a temple, for in the fame place, they 4 found feveral {tones of the {hafts of pillars, fix feet 4 long, and bafes of ftone near as big in compafs as 4 his fummer-houfe adjoining, as he expreiTed him- 4 felf; thefe, with cornices very handfomely moulded, 4 and carved with modillions and like ornaments, 4 were converted into fwine-troughs. Some of the 4 ftones of the bafes were fattened together with 4 cramps of iron, fo that they were forced to employ * The Lares, or houfehold-gods, among the Romans, were fo called, becaufe they were fuppofed to protect men's houfcs ; for Lar is fometimes taken for a houfe itfelf. They were reprefented in the form of a dog, as refembling that ani- mal in difpofition, fierce and angry towards {hangers, but gentle and kind to thofe of their own houfehold. The Romans facrificed to them, and it was the cuftom to eat up all that was left of the offering, how much foever it might be, for it was thought infamous to fend any part of it to their friends, or the poor. And in allufion to this cuftom, when a gluttonous per- fbaeats all that is fet before him, he is faid Lari facrificare y that is, he facrifices to hisjioufehold-god. horfes 4° The City Walls, * horfes to draw them afunder, and they now lie be- * fore the door of his houfe as a pavement. Capitals * of thefe pillars were likewife found, and a crooked ' cramp of iron, ten or twelve feet long, which pro- * bably was for the architraves of a circular portico. ' A mofaic pavement near it, and intire, is now the * floor of his privy vault, * Sometimes', continues the doctor, « they dig up ' ftones as big as a milling, with ftamps on them. I ' conjeBure they are counterfeit dies to caft money ' in. We faw a monumental infcription', [fee the margin] < upon a ftone of Mr. Ifaac Tibbot's, in * Caftle-ftreet, in very large letters, four inches ' long t. It was c found at a place i half a mile weft of 4 the town, upon the ' north fide of the ' Fofs-road, called ' the Querns, || from * the quarries of ' ftone thereabouts. ' Five fuch ftones < lay flatwife upon two walls, in a row, end to end, « and underneath were the corpfes of that family, as * we may fuppofe. He keeps Julia Cafta's fkull in t This ftone is now in a garden wall of Mr. Stevens's houfe, in Caftle-ftreet. || The Querns lie on the fouth fide of the road to Tetbury. 1 his D -v- M IVLIAE CASTAE CONIVGI -v- VIX ANN XXXIII And other Antiquities. 41 * his fummer-houfe, but people have ftole all her « teeth out for amulets againft the ague. Another of * the ftones ferves for a table in his garden; 'tis hand- * fomely fquared, five feet long, and three and a half ' broad, without any infcription. Another is laid for * a bridge over a channel near the crofs in Caftle * ftreet. There were but two of them which had in- * fcriptions; the other infcription perifhed, being un- * luckily expofed to the wet in a frofty feafon, pro- * bably of the hufband. Several urns have been ' found thereabouts, being a common burying-place. 4 I fuppofe them buried here after chriftianity.* Stukeky's Itineraria Curiofa. Thus for docior Stukeley, who was certainly mif- taken in fuppofing thefe vaults to be the foundations of a temple, as our readers will be prefently con- vinced, when they come to our account of the late difcoveries; but we thought proper to prefent them with the various opinions which we have met with on the fubje&. Here, without doubt, was a large, hand- fome clwelling-houfe, or houfes, or perhaps fome public building ; and the pillars with capitals, and cornices with mouldings, modillions, and like orna- ments, may be mutilated parts of them : But it is no uncommon thing for great antiquaries, of whom the docior was a Very eminent one, to indulge in chimeras. And whether or not it be literally fact that fuch orna- mented ftones have, as the do£ior was informed per- haps, been converted to the before-mentioned bafe purpofes, 42 The City Walls, purpofes, is not our prefent purpofe to enquire; but we find ourfelves difpofed to offer an apology, if it may be admitted, for the poor townfmen of Ciren- cefter, long fince configned to their graves. We are really very forry for whatever inattention has happened to the antiquities of the place. Many valuable remains might have been preferved, which feem, by the do&or's account, to have been appro- priated to vulgar ufes. Will it avail, in excufe to fay, that all men are not Stukelies ; and that what we fee in abundance every day, becomes lefs curious from frequency, and lefs valuable from plenty ? From fuch things we part with eafe and indifference ; whilft others, to whom they are rare, purchafe them with avidity, receive them with rapture, and treafure them up with folici- tude and care. Every thing has its time, and every day its fafhions. Our forefathers lived in an age diffimilar to the doc- tor's, as well as to our own. It is now fafhionable to affe£t a particular attention to any old fragment. And fince men of real judgement have noticed re- liques of antiquity, which in their hands have ferved to illuftrate antient manners and hiftory; others now- a-days, forfooth, think they difplay great judgement, by an over-weening fondnefs for trifles. Hence it is, that fo many pot/herds and mutilated fragments, with nothing either in their materials, ufe, or conforma- tion to recommend them, are continually accumu- lated by thofe who want judgement to make a proper felection. And Hypocaust. 43 fele&ion. This is not the refult of good tafte, but an affectation of it. It pretends to difcern beauties, excellencies, and curious circumftances unobferved by others, and which, in fact, have no exiftence. Thefe are a complete contrail to our forefathers. Error always lies in the extreme; and if, on one hand, it be a culpaple indifference, and a diftinguifh- ing token of ignorance, to neglect and undervalue noble monuments of antiquity ; it is, on the other, a folly to affect to admire deformity, and to prize things of no value. The Hypocaust, &c. WhEN we compare the foregoing accounts with each other, it feems probable, that the antient building mentioned by Sir Robert Atkyns, was the fame that, according to a manufcript which we have feen, was difcovered in the year 1683; ana " that it was the identical building, which was afterwards found and in part deftroyed, as related by the gardener to doctor Stukeley. The doctor's ideas were modelled from the other's information and notions ; for it is altogether improbable, from the foregoing account; as well as from what we have ftill to offer, that he ever faw the remains and foundations, of which he heard fo much from the gardener ; or without doubt he would have given.an accurate description of them. G It 3£ The Hypocaust. It feeras, therefore, that they had been covered over again with earth, and planted upon in the ordinary way, before the time of the doctor's vifit. From that time, it does not appear that there had been any attempt towards a further and more parti- cular examination, fo that at length the place where they lay was entirely forgotton, 'till the year 1780, the remains of thefe antiquities, as there is reafon to fuppofe, were again accidentally hit upon, by the workmen in the garden. The men had frequently heard ftrange ftories of coins and other curiofities having been found in abundance hereabout, and dig- ging upon a fpot about fixteen yards * from a wich- elm then growing in the fouth-weft wall, turned up feveral flat bricks, very unlike any they had ever feen before. This awakened their curiofity and attention, and clearing away the earth with fome care and cau- tion, to make an opening, in fearch of things ftill more curious and valuable, at the depth of about three feet and a half below the furface, they came to a very fmooth floor of terras, made of coarfe, ftrong mortar, diftinguifhed in the annexed plate by the letter A. Proceeding to remove the rubbifli from the furface of this floor, towards the north-eaft, they found it difcontinued and broken down, as at B. Clearing away the earth from the broken edge B, another floor F prefented itfelf, about four feet and * We notice the wich-elm, that mould the Hypocauft be covered again, it may be readily found hereafter. a half The Hypocaust. 45 a half below the furface of the firft, and made of the fame kind of materials. This was covered over with rubbifh. The next obje6l was to fee how far this latter ex- tended every way ; and proceeding in the fame di- rection, they were very foon flopped by a wall of hewn ftone G, about fifteen feet north-eaftward from the broken edge B, of the upper floor. In the further profecution of this bufinefs, they met with another obftruclion from a kind of brick- work L, Handing as it were ifolated upon the laft dif- covered floor F. This was a fmall piece of walling, about fix feet long, with an arched opening through it, about eighteen inches wide, as reprefented in the plate. And removing the loofe earth which lay about it, a very large cavity was then firft obferved between the two floors. This was a very important difcovery; and upon examination it appeared, that what remained unbroken of the floor A, was fupported by rows of brick pillars, ftanding upon F, the floor beneath. Continuing the fcrutiny, another wall D, was found, on the fouth-eaft fide, joining in a right angle with the former; and the crowns of two arches M M, of very large ftones, were obferved in the walls, with a very fmall part of the cavities of the arches appear- ing above the floor F. In order to examine the cavi- ties under the arches, a fmall portion of the floor F was broken up, clofe to the fides of the walls, and finking to the depth of thirty -four inches, a third very ftrong floor of terras, mark'd K in the plate, was dif- G 2 covered, 46 The Hypocaust. covered, running all the way under the fecond, the fpace between being filled with rough ftones and rub- bifh thrown together in a promifcuous manner- This floor K extended under the arched cavities, and ferved as a hearth to them, where long continued fires had been made, as appeared by a bed of wood-afhes, about two inches thick, found at the bottom, after the rubbifh had been removed out of the cavities. The next bufinefs was to examine whether this fubterraneous building extended beyond the laft dif- covered wall; and for that purpofe a hole E was made through it, not without a confiderable degree of labour, for it was forty inches thick. This wall proved to be a partition, to feparate the vault already dil- covered from a fimilar one on the other fide, with floors and brick pillars on the fame level, and, as there is reafon to fuppofe, exaftly correfponding with thofe in the vault before-mentioned, tho' now in a very imperfeft ftate; for here the vaulting had been deftroyed, but fome of the brick pillars remained. In this wall, twenty feet diftant from the angle made with the wall C, is a deep opening I, three feet wide, with fquare quoins, which give it the appearance of a door- way. This probably ferved for a communi- cation between the two fitting rooms of the building immediately over thefe vaults; but the height of the door-way, as we fhall now venture to call it, cannot be afcertained, as the arch or lintel which covered it had been broken down. At the diftance of four feet from the door-way, are two arches, one on each fide, marked The Hypocaust. 47 marked H H in the plate. Thefe have alfo large many ftones in their crown, and ftand on a level with the other arches already noticed. It is uncertain how far this partition-wall extended 3 as all beyond P is deftroyed. However, the door-way (landing exaclly in the midft between the two arches H H, Teems to indicate a regular building, and fuggefts an idea, that when it was entire, there may have been another arch, at a correfponding diftance from the door-wav, with that on the other fide of it at M ; and upon this fup- pofition, the length of the partition-wall muft have been forty-three feet. But the reader will pleafe to obferve, that this is only conjeclure, founded upon the foregoing circumftances. Thus have we mown, in confiderable detail, how this extraordinary fubterraneous building was re-dif- covered, and the feveral parts of it progreffively laid open ; and there can be no longer any doubt con- cerning its nature and ufe. As foon as the rubbifh was cleared away, and the parts fwept, we took a drawing of it, from which the annexed plate was en- graven, which will elucidate the fubjecl much better than verbal defcription. And we think thefe remains deferve to be ranked among the rareft and moft curious r clicks of Roman antiquities in Britain. We mail now fubjoin a few remarks oafome of the parts of this extraordinary building. It has been ob- ferved that what remains of the upper floor A is fup- ported 4 8 The HypocAusT. ported by brick pillars, and it is evident that, when entire, it extended all over the floor F, fupported every where by fimilar pillars and brick-work {land- ing upon the latter floor. The wall C rifes within two feet of the furface of the garden, and is built of courfes of ftones about five inches thick. It is faced on the infide only, the back part againft the earth being rough, and filled up with rubbifh, which is a proof that it was the boundary of the building on that fide. The upper floor, which refts upon the pillars, is fourteen inches thick, made, as before obferved, with three coats of coarfe, ftrong mortar. The pillars which fupport it are thirty-nine inches high, and eight inches fquare, made of courfes of entire bricks of the fame fuperficial dimenfions, and about an inch and three quarters thick. Thefe pillars have each a large brick of eleven inches fquare for a bafe, and another of the fame fize by way of capital. They ftand in rows, at irregular diftances, fome not more than eighteen inches, whilft others are as much as two feet afunder. The capitals are covered with brick tiles of two feet fquare, upon which the terras refts. But feveral of the pillars which flood under the prefent remains of the floor A are wanting, which gave us an opportunity of pairing upon our hands and knees, tho' not without fome difficulty, among thofe which are left. We counted only twenty-two pillars Hand- ing, which were arranged in fix rows; but there had been feven in each. In feveral of the vacancies the gardener has very carefully propped the floor with round The Hypocaust. 49 round poles cut to the height of the pillars, which help to fupport it very well. All the pillars, with their broad bafes, and the floor or hearth upon which they ftand, are very much burnt, fo that but few of the former are perfeft. This was occasioned in fome meafure by the force of long continued fires; but mod probably they have fufFered much injury by other accidents alfo, fuch as the knocking off pieces from the fides and angles with iron inftruments, in ftirring the fire, and placing the fuel, which are cafualties that muft fometimes un- avoidably have happened. There were found difperfed all over the floor F, which we have called the hearth, a very confiderable quantity of wood-allies, intermixed with coals, and confolidated, by length of time and natural humidity, into a hard mafs ; whence it evidently appears, that fires have been kept burning uniformly all over the hearth. ' The coals and afhes, the vifible effe&s of fire upon the hearth, and the burnt ftate of the pillars which ftand upon it, are circumftances which leave not the fmalleft doubt concerning the nature and ufe of this building. It was unqueftionably a Roman Hypocauft; but not one appropriated to bathing, as we fhall prefently be able to fhow j but which Sir Robert Atkyns fuppofed it to be. And we flatter ourfelves, after this detailed account, our readers will be equally fatisfied, that dodor Stukely was as much, miftaken, (if thefe remains are what he fpeaks of) in fuppofing them to be the ruins of a Roman temple. But 50 The Hypocaust. But there is another conjecture, formed, it may feem, fmce the late difcoveries, and for which the author befpeaks a more than ordinary degree of credit, as being, he fays, the mojl probable ; and therefore we mould be thought unpardonably negligent to pafs it over unnoticed. The paiTage alluded to appears in Mr. Bigland's Qolieftions. We know nothing of the writer, who is generally underftood not to be Mr. Big- land, but fome perfon employed by him in that com- pilation. Taking notice of the before-mentioned ob- fervations of doctor Stukeley, he fubjoins, by way of note, that " A few years fince thefe difcoveries were further " inveftigated. — The mod probable conjecture is, " that IT was an Ojficina, or kiln, where the lejferce " were prepared," &c. What this writer's IT refers to, we might leave to others to determine; but without criticiling on gram- matical inaccuracies, we will fuppofe it to have a re- ference to the foregoing difcoveries ; and from what he fays, we are difpofed to think the reader will join us in opinion, that he never faw them. Muft we fay, then, that it was eafier to conjeBure than to know ? But what if it mould appear, that he was in the daily habit of confulting a work, * from which he might have derived authentic information, and to which he is much indebted, without making the fmalleft ac- knowledgment ? Does it not juftify an obfervation, * Rudder's Gloucefterfhire. that The Hypocaust. 51 that there are perfons fo unaccountably affecled to Angularity, as to delight more in wandering alone in the dark and dubious region of wild fancy, than to tread with others in the plain and fober walk of truth and reafon ? Such difpohtions have their objefts and gratifications; and if it will afford this writer the fmalleft pleafure, we hefitate not to declare our opinion, that his Ojjicina Conjetlure is original, and that it was undoubtedly manufactured in his own work/Jiop. Hypocaufts were common with the Greeks and Romans. The name is derived from two Greek words, v7to, fub, under ; and xaico, incendo, I burn ; and, for any thing we perceive, might be applied to any build- ing having ftoves or fire-places in the lower part, for heating the parts above. In this fenfe our malt-kiln may not improperly be termed a Hypocauft. How- ever, the name was ufed in a more limited fenfe. The antients had feveral forts of fuch buildings, which paffed under different denominations. To one fort Cicero gives the name of Vaporarium, whilft others call it Laconiiim, and Sudatio. This fort was an artificial warm bath, made by fire under large veffels, commonly of brafs, and denominated Cali- darium and Tepidarium, according to the heat they communicated, and the quantity of water they con- tained. This might be fomething of the kind which Sir Robert Atkyns alluded to. II Palladio £2 The Hypocaust. Palladio has given a defcription of another fort, and becaufe it is fhort, and may ferve to illuftrate fome appearances in our Hypocauft, we have fub- joined it, for the fatisfa&ion of the reader. It runs thus : Veteres in fubterraneo fornice non magno, cujus extrema pars extra domum muro terminabitur, unum ignem incendebant. Ab hoc canales plurimi, variae magnitudinis, intimis fabricae parietibus inclufi, ut hodie aquarum et fentinarum fiftulae, ad fummam contignationem permeabant. His fingulis nares erant ad os fornicis domus parietibus adjun&um, per quas calor inter parietes afcendens, ad oecos, triclinia, tablina manabat, et ad omnia loca quibus calorem procurare vellent. Quemadmodum vim ignis per canaliculos quofdam alembicum penetrare vidimus : ubi ignis quidem longiffime diftat ab ore vitri, quod tamen non minus calet, quam ilia vafis pars, quam ignis proxime calefacit. Calor ille adeo aequabiliter in omnes partes fe diffudit ut totum habitaculum im- pleret. Non ita camini, quibus fi propius ftes, seftuas ; li longius friges. I Hie vero aer mitiffimus fe circum- fudit, ut cameram, cui caminus in adverfo muri latere collocatus eft, accenfus ignis paulatim et leniter tepefacit. Canales illi qui calorem difpenfabant, patulas fauces non habuerunt ; quare nec flammam nec fumum, fed calidum tantum vaporem, et per- petuum teporem emiferunt. Ignis in fornice parvulus, modo continuus, locis adeo occlufus vaporandis fuf- fecit. The Hypocaust. 53 fecit. Ad os fornicis edulia parabant. Quaquaverfum in muro vafa et ollae collocatae funt, aquis ferventibus repletae, quae dapes calidas fervarent. Commodum fine fumptu maximum! nullo periculo, rkllis fbrdibus, non fumo turbatum ; mille incom- modis folutum, quae reliqua focorum genera comi- tantur. Non illic fumariolis, ignitabulis vel thermo- cliniis, tot malorum caufis, opus fuit : non variis in- ftrumentis ad frigus domandum, et fovenda calore corpora. Sed in fingulis cameris per omne fpatium aequalis tepor et molliflimus aer fe difFudit. Canales plus minus calebant, ut ratio temporum poftulabat. Peritiffimi enim in calore moderando veteres fuerunt; uti lenis aure refrigeratione, qualem organorum folles fpirant, quee non minus fuavis et placida eft, quam ilia acuta eft, vehemens, et faeda, quam fabrorum folles ejeclant. Si divites et principes viri qui aedes fibi aedificant exemplo adeo commodo uterentur, rem facerent dig- niffimam, quam omnes impleaerentur, et quae mi- nore cum fumptu innumeris aerumnis nos expediret. Palladio de Focis Vetcrum,. in fine Ubri cui titulus Anti- quitates urbis Romce. ltd. & Lat. Oxonii, 1709 Svo. The fenfe of which the Englifh reader may under- ftand as follows : '« The antients (fays he) made a fire in a fmall " fubterraneous vault, from which many funnels of " various fizes were carried to the feveral rooms of " the houfe, or whatever places they chofe to warm, H 2 " and 54 The Hypocaust* " and the heat afcended in them in the fame manner " as it is found to pafs through the narrow neck of " an alembic ; one end of which, tho' very diftant <£ from the fire, is not lefs warm than the part neareft * c to it. Thus the heat fo equably diffufcs itfelf into " all parts that it fills the whole houfc. This is not " the cafe with chimney-hearths, near which if you " ftand, you are fcalded ; if at a diftance, you are " chilled ; but where thefe pipes are carried, a mild " air diffufes itfelf around. Thefe funnels which con- " veyed the heat had not open mouths, fo they did " not emit flame nor fmoak, but only a hot vapour " and perpetual warmth. A fmall fire in the vault, " provided it were continual, was fufficient. At the " mouth of the vault they dreffed their victuals. Pots <: and veffels were placed on every fide in the walls, " full of hot water, to keep their victuals warm ; a