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WESTMINSTER

AUGUSTUS J. C. HARE

AUTHOR OF

; WALKS IN ROME," "WALKS IN LONDON," "CITIES OF NORTHERN AND
CENTRAL ITALY," "WANDERINGS IN SPAIN," ETC.

LONDON

GEORGE ALLEN, 156, CHARING CROSS ROAD
AND SUNNYSIDE, ORPINGTON
1894

WESTMINSTER

I— ABBEY

THE first church on this site was built (close to Watling Street,
the Roman Road, from Verulam) on the Isle of Thorns —
' Thorney Island ' — an almost insulated peninsula of dry sand and
gravel, girt on one side by the Thames, and on the other by the
marshes formed by the little stream Eye, 1 which cave its name to
Tyburn (Th' Eye Burn), before it fell into the river. Here Scbert,
king of the East Saxons, who died 616, having been baptized by
MelHtus, is said to have founded a church, which he dedicated to
St. Peter, either from an association with the great church in Rome,
from which Augustine had lately come, or to balance the rival
foundation in honour of St. Paul upon a neighbouring hill. Sul-
card, the first historian of the Abbey, relates that on a Sunday
night, being the eve of the day on which the church was to be
consecrated by Bishop Mellitus, Edric the fisherman was watching
his nets by the bank of the island. On the opposite shore he saw
a gleaming light, and, when he approached it in his boat, he found
a venerable man, who desired to be ferried across the stream.
Upon their arrival at the island, the mysterious stranger landed,
and proceeded to the church, calling up on his way two springs of
water, which still exist, by two blows of his staff. Then a host of
angels miraculously appeared, and held candles which lighted him
as he went through all the usual forms of a church consecration,
while throughout the service other angels were seen ascending and
descending over the church, as in Jacob's vision. When the old
man returned to the boat, he bade Edric tell Mellitus that the
church was already consecrated by St. Peter, who hold the keys of
heaven, and promised that a plentiful supply of fish would never
fail him as a fisherman if he ceased to work on a Sunday, and did
not forget to bear a tithe of that which he caught to the Abbey of
Westminster.

On the following day, when Mellitus came to consecrate the
church, Edric presented himself and told his story, showing, in
proof of it, the marks of consecration in the traces of the chrism,
the crosses on the doors, and the droppings of the angelic candles.
The bishop acknowledged that his work had been already done by

1 The Eye, now a sewer, still passes under New Bond Street, the Green Park,
and Buckingham Palace, to join the Thames near Vauxhall Bridge.

Westminster

saintly hands, and changed the name of the place from Thorney to
Westminster, and in recollection of the story of Edric a tithe of
fish was paid by the Thames fishermen to the Abbey till 1382, 1 the
bearer having a right to sit that day at the prior's table, and to ask
for bread and ale from the cellarman.

Beside the church of Sebert arose the palace of the Anglo-Saxon
monarchs, to which it served as a chapel, as St. George's does to
Windsor. It is connected with many of the legends of that pictur-
esque age. Here, while he was attending mass with Leofric of
Mercia and his wife, the famous Godiva, Edward the Confessor
announced that he saw the Saviour appear as a child, ' pure and
bright like a spirit.' By the wayside between the palace and the
chapel sate Michael, the crippled Irishman, who assured Hugolin,
the chamberlain, that St. Peter had promised his cure if the king
would himself bear him on his shoulders to the church, upon which
Edward bore him to the altar, where he was received by Godric,
the sacristan, and walked away whole.

Whilst he was an exile Edward had vowed that if he returned to
England in safety he would make a pilgrimage to Kome. This
promise, after his coronation, he was most anxious to perform, but
his nobles refused to let him go, and the Pope (Leo IX.) released
him from his vow, on condition of his founding or restoring a
church in honour of St. Peter. . Then to an ancient hermit near
Worcester St. Peter appeared, 'bright and beautiful, like to a
clerk,' and bade him tell the king that the church to which he
must devote himself, and where he must establish a Benedictine
monastery, was no other than the ancient minster of Thorney,
which he knew so well.

Edward, henceforth devoting a tenth of his whole substance to
the work, destroj^ed the old church, and rebuilt it from the founda-
tion, as the 'Collegiate Church of St. Peter at Westminster.' It
was the first cruciform church erected in England, 2 and was of
immense size for the age, covering the whole of the ground occupied
by the present building. The foundation was laid in 1049, and the
church was consecrated December 28, 1065, eight days before the
death of the king. Of this church and monastery of the Confessor
nothing remains now but the Chapel of the Pyx, the lower part of
the Refectory underlying the Westminster schoolroom, part of the
Dormitory, and the whole of the lower walls of the South Cloister ;
but the Bayeux tapestry still shows us in outline the church of the
Confessor as it existed in its glory.

The second founder of the Abbey was Henry III., who pulled
down most of the Confessor's work, and from 1245 to 1272 devoted
himself to rebuilding. The material he employed was first the
green sandstone, which has given the name of Godstone to the
place in Surrey whence it came, and afterwards Caen stone. The

1 In 1231 the monks of Westminster went to law with the Vicar of Rotherhithe for
the tithe of salmon caught in his parish, protesting that it had been granted by St.
Peter to their Abbey at its consecration. — Flete.

2 ' Novo compositionis genere.' — Matthew Paris.

Westminster Abbey

portions which remain to us from his time are the Confessor's
Chapel, the side aisles and their chapels, and the choir and tran-
septs. The work of Henry was continued by his son Edward I.,
who built the eastern portion of the nave, and it was carried on
by different abbots till the great west window was erected by
Abbot Estney in 1498. Meantime, Abbot Littlington, in 1380, had
added the College Hall, the Abbot's House, Jerusalem Chamber,
and part of the cloisters. In 1502 Henry VII. pulled down the
Lady Chapel, and built his beautiful perpendicular chapel instead.

AT WESTMINSTER

The western towers were only completed from designs of Sir
Christopher Wren (1714), under whom much of the exterior was
rcfaced with Oxfordshire stone, and its original details mercilessly
defaced and pared down.

'The Abbey Church formerly arose a magnificent apex to a royal palace, sur-
rounded by its own greater and lesser sanctuaries and almonries ; its bell-towers,
chapels, prisons, gate-houses, boundary-walls, and a train of other buildings, of
which at the present day we can scarcely form an idea. In addition to all the land
around it, extending from the Thames to Oxford Street, and from Vauxhall Bridge
Road to the church of St. Mary-le-Strand, the Abbey possessed ninety-seven towns
and villages, seventeen hamlets, and two hundred and sixteen manors.' — Bardweits
' Ancient and Modem IVest/ninster.'

Westminster

At the dissolution Abbot Boston was rewarded for his facile
resignation by being made dean of the college which was established
in place of the monastery. In 1541 a bishopric of Westminster
was formed, with Middlesex as a diocese, but it was of short exist-
ence, for Mary refounded the monastery, and Elizabeth turned her
attention entirely to the college, which she re-established under a
dean and twelve secular canons.

No one can understand Westminster Abbey, and few can realise
its beauties, in a single visit. Too many tombs will produce the
same satiety as too many pictures. There can be no advantage,
and there will be less pleasure, in filling the brain with a hopeless
jumble in which kings and statesmen, warriors, ecclesiastics, and
poets, are tossing about together. Even those who give the shortest
time to their London sightseeing should pay not fewer than three
visits to the Abbey. On the first, unwearied by detail, let them
have the luxury of enjoying the architectural beauties of the place,
with a general view of the interior, the chapter-house, cloisters,
and their monastic surroundings. On the second let them study
the glorious chapels which surround the choir, and which contain
nearly all the tombs of antiquarian or artistic interest. On the
third let them labour as far as they can through the mass of monu-
ments which crowd the transepts and nave, which are often mere
cenotaphs, and which almost always derive their only interest from
those they commemorate. These three visits may enable visitors
to see Westminster Abbey, but it will require many more to know
it — visits at all hours of the day to drink in the glories of the light
and shadow in the one great church of England which retains its
beautiful ancient colouring undestroyed by so-called 'restoration'
— visits employed in learning the way by which the minster has
grown, arch upon arch, and monument upon monument ; and other
visits given to studying the epitaphs on the tombs, and considering
the reminiscences they awaken.

' Oft let me range the gloomy aisles alone —
Sad luxury ! to vulgar minds unknown,
Along the walls where speaking marbles show
What worthies form the hallow'd mould below ;
Proud names, who once the reins of empires held;
In arms who triumph'd, or in arts excell'd ;
Chiefs, graced with scars, and prodigal of blood ;
Stern patriots, who for sacred freedom stood ;
Just men, by whom impartial laws were given,
And saints, who taught and led the way to heaven.' — TickelL

In approaching the Abbey from Parliament Street, the first
portion seen is the richly decorated buttresses of Henry VII. 's
Chapel. Then we emerge into the open square which still bears
the name of Broad Sanctuary, and have the whole building rising
before us.

' That antique pile behold,
Where royal heads receive the sacred gold :
It gives them crowns, and does their ashes keep ;
There made like gods, like mortals there they sleep,
Making the circle of their reign complete,
Those suns of empire, where they rise they set.' — Walle7\

Westminster Abbey

The outline of the Abbey is beautifully varied and broken by St.
Margaret's Church, which is not only deeply interesting in itself,
but is invaluable as presenting the greater edifice behind it in its
true proportions. Facing us is the north transept, the front of
which, with its niches, rose-window, and its great triple entrance
— imitated from French cathedrals — sometimes called 1 Solomon's
Porch,' is the richest part of the building externally, and a splen-
did example of the pointed style. A round window, however,
introduced in a recent ' restoration,' is very destructive to history ;
though the series of English saints, bishops, abbots of Westminster,
and other benefactors to the Abbey, has much interest. Beyond
the feeble towers, usually attributed to Wren, though possibly the
work of Hawksmoor, is the low line of grey wall which indicates
the Jerusalem Chamber.

Facing the Abbey, on the left, are Westminster Hall and the
Houses of Parliament, which occupy the site of the ancient palace
of our sovereigns/ Leaving these and St. Margaret's for a later
chapter, let us proceed at once to enter the Abbey.

The nave and transepts are open free ; a fee of sixpence (except on Monday
and Tuesday) is asked for entering the chapels surrounding the ehoir.

Hours of divine service, 7.45 a.m., 10 a.m., and 3 p.m. From the first Sunday
after Easter till the last Sunday in July there is a special evening service with a
sermon in the nave at 7 P.M. 1 Vox quidem dissona, sed una religio,' was the maxim
of Dean Stanley in his choice of the preachers for the services.

Three miles of hot water completely warm the Abbey in winter.

Behind the rich lace work of Henry VII.'s Chapel, and under one
of the grand flying buttresses of the Chapter-House, through a
passage hard by which Chaucer lived, we reach the door of the
Poet's Corner, where Queen Caroline vainly knocked for admission
to share in the coronation of her husband George IV. This is the
door by which visitors generally enter the Abbey.

' The moment I entered Westminster Abbey, I felt a kind of awe pervade my mind
which I cannot describe ; the very silence seemed sacred.' — Edmund Burke,

{ On entering, the magnitude of the building breaks fully upon the mind. The eye
gazes with wonder at clustered columns of gigantic dimensions, with arches spiing-
ing from them to such an amazing height. It seems as if the awful nature of the
place presses down upon the soul, and hushes the beholder into noiseless reverence.
We feel that we are surrounded by the congregated bones of the great men of past
times, who have filled history with their deeds, and earth with their renown.' —
Washington Irving.

' In Westminster Abbey one thinks not of the builder; the religion of the place
makes the hrst impression.' — Horace Walpole.

1 How reverend is the face of this tall pile,
Whose ancient pillars rear their marble heads,
To bear aloft its arch'd and ponderous roo r ,
By its own weight made steadfast and immovable,
Looking tranquillity !' — Cougrcvc.

'They dreamed not of a perishable home
Who thus could build. I5e mine, in hours of fear
Or grovelling thought, to seek a refuge here ;
Or through the aisles of Westminster to roam ;
Where bubbles burst, and folly's dancing foam
Melts, if it cross the threshold.' — Wordsworth.

Westminster

' Here, where the end of earthly things
Lays heroes, patriots, bards, and kings ;
Where stiff the hand and still the tongue
Of those who fought, and spoke, and sung ;
Here, where the fretted aisles prolong
The distant notes of holy song,
As if some angel spoke again,
" All peace on earth, good will to men ; "
If ever from an English heart,
Oh, here let prejudice depart ! ' — Walter Scott.

' This is the consecrated temple of reconciled ecclesiastical enmities. Here the
silence of death breathes the lesson which the tumult of life hardly suffered to be
heard.' — Dea7i Stanley.

* No monument has ever been more identified with the history of a people ; every
one of its stones represents a page in the annals of the country.' — Comte de Mon-
talembert.

* In the chambers of the dead, in the temple of fame, no less than in the house of
our Heavenly Father, there are indeed ' ' many mansions," many stages, many degrees.
Each human soul that is gifted above its fellows, leaves, as it passes out of the world,
a light of its own, that no other soul, whether more or less greatly gifted, could give
equally. As each lofty peak in some mountain country is illuminated with a different
hue of its own by the setting sun, so also each of the higher summits of human society
is lit up by the sunset of life with a different colour, derived, it may be, from the
materials of which it is composed, or from the relative position which it occupies, but
each, to those who can discern it rightly, conveying a ne"'w and separate lesson of
truth, of duty, of wisdom, and of hope.' — Dean Stanley, Sermon on the Death of
Lord Palnierston.

1 Incongruity among things beautiful in themselves is the very first element of the
picturesque. As it is, though Westminster Abbey has suffered much, and is suffering
more, at the hands of the modern " restorer," its delightful want of uniformity is not,
and can scarcely ever be, overcome.' — IV. J. Loftie.

The name Poet's Corner, as applied to the southern end of the
south transept, is first mentioned by Goldsmith. The attraction to
the spot as the burial-place of the poets arose from its containing
the grave of Chaucer, 4 the father of English poets,' whose tomb,
though it was not erected till more than a hundred years after his
death (1551), is the only ancient monument in the transept. Here,
as Addison says, i there are many poets who have no monuments,
and many monuments which have no poets.' Though many of the
later monuments are only cenotaphs, they are still for the most part
interesting as portraying those they commemorate. That which
strikes every one is the wonderful beauty of the colouring in the
interior. Architects will pause to admire the Purbeck marble
columns with their moulded, not sculptured, capitals ; the beauty
of the triforium arcades, their richness so greatly enhanced by the
wall-surface above being covered with a square diaper ; the noble
rose- windows ; and above all, the perfect proportions of the whole.
But no knowledge of architecture is needed for the enjoyment of
the colouring, of the radiant hues of the stained glass, which en-
hances the depth of the shadows amid the time-stained arches, and
floods the roof and its beautiful tracery with light.

Few, however, among the hundreds who visit it daily are led to
the Abbey by its intrinsic beauty, but rather because it is ' the silent
meeting-place of the great dead of eight centuries' — the burial-place
of those of her sons whom, at different times of her taste and judg-
ment, England has delighted to honour with sepulture in 1 the great

Poet's Corner

temple of silence and reconciliation, where the enmities of twenty
generations lie buried.' 1

' Let us now praise famous men, and our fathers that begat us. The Lord hath
wrought great glory by them through his great power from the beginning. Such as
did bear rule in their kingdoms, men renowned for their power, giving counsel by
their understanding. . . . Leaders of the people by their counsels, and by their know-
ledge of learning meet for the people, wise and eloquent in their instructions. Such
as found out musical tunes, and recited verses in writing : rich men furnished with
ability, living peaceably in their habitations. All these were honoured in their
generation, and were the glory of their times. . . . Their bodies are buried in peace,
but their name liveth for evermore.' — Ecchts. xliv. 1-7, 14.

i 'When I am in a serious humour, I very often walk by myself in Westminster
Abbey, where the gloominess of the place, and the use to which it is applied, with
the solemnity of the building, and the condition of the people who lie in it, are apt
to fill the mind with a kind of melancholy, or rather thoughtfulness that is not dis-
agreeable.

'When I look upon the tombs of the great, every emotion of envy dies in me;
when I read the epitaphs of the beautiful, every inordinate desire goes out ; when
I meet with the grief of parents upon a tombstone, my heart melts with compas-
sion ; when I see the tomb of the parents themselves, I consider the vanity of griev-
ing for those whom we must quickly follow. When I see kings lying by those who
deposed them, when I consider rival wits placed side by side, or the holy men that
divided the world with their contests and disputes, I reflect with sorrow and astonish-
ment on the little competitions, factions, and debates of mankind. When I read the
several dates of the tombs, of some that died yesterday, and some six hundred years
ago, I consider that great day when we shall all of us be contemporaries, and make
our appearance together.' — Addison* ''Spectator] No. 2G.

'Death openeth the gate to good fame, and extinguisheth envy ; above all, believe
it, when a man hath obtained worthy ends and expectations, the sweetest canticle is
" Nunc Dimittis." ' — Lord Bacon.

f 'O eloquent, just, and mighty Death! whom none could advise, thou hast per-
suaded ; what none hath dared, thou hast done ; and whom all the world hath
flattered, thou only hast cast out of the world and despised ; thou hast drawn
together all the far-stretched greatness, all the pride, cruelty, and ambition of man,
and covered it all over with these two words, 11 ic jacct.' — Sir \V. Raleigh, ' History
of th e WorhV

* The best of men are but men at the best.' — General Lambert.

Those who look upon the tombs of the poets can scarcely fail
to observe, with surprise, how very few arc commemorated here
whose works are now read, how many whose very existence is gene-
rally forgotten. 2

1 1 have always observed that the visitors to the Abbey remain longest about the
simple memorials in Poet's Corner. A kinder and fonder feeling takes the place of
that cold curiosity or vague admiration with which they gaze on the splendid monu-
ments of the great and the heroic. They linger about these as about the tombs of
friends and companions.' — Washington Irving, * The Sketch-Book.'

1 Macaulay.

2 We look in vain for any monuments to Sir Philip Sidney, Christopher Marlowe,
Robert Southwell, John Donne, Thomas Carew, Philip Massinger, Sir John Suckling,
George Sandys, Francis Quarles, Thomas Heywood, Richard Lovelace, Robert
Herrick, George Wither, Henry Vaughan, Andrew Marvell, Thomas Otway, Izaak
Walton, Thomas Parnell, Edmund Waller, William Somerville, William Collins,
Edward Moore, Allan Ramsay, William Shenstone, William Falconer, Mark Aken-
side, Thomas Chatterton, Tobias Smollett, Thomas Wharton, James Beattie, James
Hogg, George Crabbe, Felicia Hemans, L. E. Landon, and John Keats Even the
far greater memories of Walter Scott, Percy Bysshe Shelley, and Walter Savage
Landor are unrepresented. Stained windows are supposed to commemorate George
Herbert and William Cowper.

Westminster

Beginning to the right from the entrance, we find the monu-
ments of — ■

Michael Drayton, author of the ' Polyolbion,' who 'exchanged his laurell for a
crowne of glory' in 1631. His bust was erected here by Anne Clifford. 'Dorset,
Pembroke, and Montgomery.'

' Doe pious marble ! let thy readers knowe

What they and what their children owe

To Drayton's name, whose sacred dust

We recommend unto thy trust.

Protect his mem'ry, and preserve his storye,

Remaine a lastinge monument of his glorye ;

And when thy mines shall disclame

To be the treasrer of his name,

His name, that cannot fade, shall be

An everlasting monument to thee.'

The epitaph is either by Quarles or Ben Jonson.

' Mr. Marshall, the stone-cutter of Fetter Lane, told me that these verses were
made by Mr. Francis Quarles, who was his great friend, "l is pity they should be
lost. Mr. Quarles was a very good man.' — Aubrey.

' There is probably no poem of this kind in any other language comparable
together in extent and excellence to the Polyolbion. Yet perhaps no English poem,
known as well by name, is so little known beyond its name.' — Hallam.

Barton Booth, the actor, 1733, with a medallion. Being educated at Westminster,
where he was the favourite of Dr. Busby, he was first induced to take to the stage
by the admiration he excited while acting when a schoolboy in one of Terence's plays.
He was the original ' Cato' in Addison's play.

John Philips, 1708, buried at Hereford, an author whose once celebrated poem,
' The Splendid Shilling,' is now almost forgotten. Milton was his model, and ' what-
ever there is in Milton which the reader wishes away, all that is obsolete, peculiar,
or licentious, is accumulated with great care by Philips.' 1 The monument was
erected by the poet's friend, Sir Simon Harcourt. The epitaph is attributed to Dr.
Smalridge. The line, ' Uni Miltono secundus, primoque paene par,' was effaced
under Dean Sprat, not because of its almost profane arrogance, but because the
royalist Dean would not allow even the name of the regicide Milton to appear within
the Abbey— it was 'too detestable to be read on the wall of a building dedicated to
devotion.' The line was restored under Dean Atterbury. 2 Philip's poem of ' Cyder'
is commemorated in the bower of apple entwined with laurel which encircles his
bust, and the inscription, ' Honos erat huic quoque Porno.'

Geoffrey Chaucer, 1400. A grey marble altar-tomb, with a canopy, which was
added by an admirer, one Nicholas Brigham, in the reign of Edward VI. This
' Maister Chaucer, the Flour of Poetes,' is chiefly known from his 'Canterbury
Tales,' by which a company of pilgrims, who meet at the Tabard Inn in Southwark
on their way to the shrine of St. Thomas a Becket, are supposed to beguile their
journey. The fortunes of Chaucer followed those of John of Gaunt, who married
the sister of the poet's wife, Philippa de Rouet, and he was at one time imprisoned
for his championship of the followers of Wycliffe. He was buried ' in the Abbey of
Westminster, before the chapel of St. Bennet.' 3 The window above the tomb was
erected to the poet's memory in 1868.

' Chaucer lies buried in the south aisle of St. Peter's, Westminster, and now hath
got the company of Spenser and Drayton, a pair royal of poets, enough almost to
make passengers' feet to move metrically, who go over the place where so much
poetical dust is interred.' — Fuller.

Near the tomb of Chaucer, Robert Browning was buried, 1889, and Alfred Lord
Tennyson in 1892. ,

Abraham Cowley, 1607. The monument stands above the grave of the poet, and
was erected by George Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham. Dean Sprat wrote

1 Johnson's Lives of the Poets. 2 Ibid.

3 Caxton, in his ed. of Chaucer's trans, of Boethius.

Poet's Corner

the inscription to 'the Pindar, Horace, and Virgil of England, and the delight,
ornament, and admiration of his age.' Cowley was zealously devoted to the cause
of Charles L, but was cruelly neglected by Charles II., though, on hearing of his
death, the king is reported to have said that 1 he (Cowley) had not left a better man
behind him.' The popularity of Cowley had already waned in the days of Pope,
who wrote —

' Who now reads Cowley ? If he pleases yet,
His moral pleases, not his pointed wit :
Forget his epic, nay, Pindaric art,
But still I love the language of his heart.'

(Above Chaucer) an epitaph to John Roberts, 1770, the 'very faithful secretary' to
Henry Pelham.

CHAUCER'S TOMD.

Henry Wadsivorth Longfellow, 1807-1882. A bust set up in 1884.

John Dryden, 1700. A monument erected by Sheffield, Duke of Buck'ngham,
with a bust by Scheemakers, given by the poet's widow in 1730. Pope wrote the
couplet —

1 This Sheffield raised ; the sacred diist below
Was Dryden once : the rest who does not know?'

Dryden, who succeeded Sir William Dayenant as poet-laureate, was educated at
Westminster School. He shifted his politics with the Restoration, having previously
been an ardent admirer of Cromwell. His twenty-seven plays are now almost for-
gotten, and so are his prose works, however admirable. His reputation rests chiefly
on his 'Ode for St. Cecilia's Day,' and the musical opening lines of his ' Hind and
Panther,' written after his secession to the Church of Rome, in the second part of
which he represented the milk-white hind (Rome) and the spotted panther (the
Church of England) as discussing theology. He was buried at the feet of Chaucer.

Westminster

Near Dryden lies Francis Beaumont ! , the dramatist, 1616.

Archibald Campbell Tail, Archbishop of Canterbury ', 1882. A bust by Armstead.

Returning to the south entrance, and turning left, we find monu-
ments to —

Ben Jonsou, 1637, who was educated at Westminster School, but afterwards
became a bricklayer, then a soldier, and then an actor. His comedies found such
favour with James I. that he received a pension of a hundred marks, with the title
of poet-laureate, in 1619. His pension was increased by Charles I., but he died in
great poverty in the neighbourhood of the Abbey, where he was buried in the north
aisle of the nave. ' Every Man in his Huviour and The Alchymist are perhaps the
best of his comedies ; but there is hardly one of his pieces which, as it stands, would
please on the stage in the present day, even as most of them failed to please in his
own time.' 1 His allegorical monument, by Rysbrach, was erected in 1737.

Samuel Butler, 1680, buried at St. Paul's, Covent Garden ; the author of ' Hudi-
bras,' a work which, when it came out, 'was incomparably more popular than
"Paradise Lost ;" no poem in our language rose at once to greater reputation.' 2

* By the first paragraph the reader is amused, by the next he is delighted, and by
a few more constrained to astonishment. But astonishment is a tiresome pleasure ;
he is soon weary of wondering, and longs to be diverted.' — Johnson.

The bust was erected by John Barber, Lord Mayor, ' that he who was destitute of
all things when alive, might not want a monument when dead.'

Edmond Spenser, 1599, with the epitaph, ' Here lyes, expecting the second com-
minge of our Saviour Christ Jesus, the body of Edmond Spencer, the Prince of Poets
in his tyme, whose divine spirrit needs noe othir witnesse then the workes which he
left behinde him.' He died in King Street, Westminster, and was buried here at the
expense of Devereux, Earl of Essex, the spot being selected for his grave on account
of its vicinity to the burial-place of Chaucer.

' His hearse was attended by poets, and mournful elegies and poems, with the pens
that wrote them, were thrown into his tomb. What a funeral was that at which
Beaumont, Fletcher, Jonson, and, in all probability, Shakespeare, attended ! — what
a grave in which the pen of Shakespeare may be mouldering away ! ' — Stanley,
' Memorials of Westminster.'

It is by his 'Faerie Queene* that Spenser is chiefly known now, but his ' Shep-
heardes Calendar ' was so much admired by Dryden that he considered it ' not to be
matched in any modern language.'

' Our sage and serious Spenser, whom I dare be known to think a better teacher
than Scotus or Aquinas.' — Milton.

' The grave and diligent Spenser.' — Ben Jonson.

' Here's that creates a poet.' — Quarles.

Thomas Gray, 1771, buried at Stoke Pogis, chiefly known as the author of the
' Elegy written in a Country Churchyard/ which Byron justly calls ' the corner-stone
of his glory.' The monument is by John Bacon. The Lyric Muse is represented as
holding his medallion-portrait, and points to a bust of Milton. Beneath are the lines
of Mason —

' No more the Grecian muse unrivall'd reigns ;
To Britain let the nations homage pay :
She felt a Homer's fire in Milton's strains,
A Pindar's rapture in the lyre of Gray.'

John Milton, 1674, buried at St. Giles's, Cripplegate. The monument, by
Rysbrach, was erected in 1737, when Dr. Gregory said to Dr. Johnson, ' I have
seen erected in the church a bust of that man whose name I once knew considered
as a pollution of its walls.' 3 It was set up at the expense of Auditor Benson, who
'has bestowed more words upon himself than upon Milton,' 4 whence Pope's line in
the Dunciad —

' On poets' tombs see Benson's titles writ.'

1 Schlegel's Lectures on Drainatic Art and Lit.

2 Hallam, Introdttction to the Literature of Europe.

3 Johnson's Lives of the Poets. 4 Johnson.

Poet's Corner

William Mason, 1797, buried at Aston in Yorkshire, of which he was rector.
His dramatic poems of ' Elfrida ' and 'Caractacus' are the least forgotten of his
works. His monument, by the elder Bacon, bears a profile medallion, with an
inscription by Bishop Hurd — 1 Poetae, si quis alius, culto, casto, pio.'

Thomas Shadwell, 1C92, who died the victim of opium, and is buried at Chelsea.
He was poet-laureate in the time of William III. He 'endeavoured to make the
stage as grossly immoral as his talents admitted,' but ; was not destitute of humour.' 1
Rochester said of him that if he had burnt all he wrote, and printed all he spoke,
he would have had more wit and humour than any other poet. His rivalry with
Dryden excited the ill-natured lines —

' Mature in dulness from his tender years,

Shadwell alone, of all my sons, is he

Who stands confirm'd in full stupidity :

The rest to some faint meaning make pretence,

But Shadwell never deviates into sense.' -
The monument, erected by the poet's son, Sir John Shadwell, bears his pert-looking
bust crowned with laurel, by Ryswick.

Matthew Prior, 1721, educated at Westminster School, whence he was removed
to serve as a tapster in the public-house of an uncle at Charing Cross. His know-
ledge of the Odes of Horace here attracted the attention of Lord Dorset, who
sent him to St. John's College at Cambridge, and under the same patronage he
rose to be Gentleman of the Bedchamber to William III. and Under Secretary of
State, &c. 1 Alma ' and ' Solomon ' were considered by his contemporaries his best
works ; now no one reads them. He died at Wimpole in Cambridgeshire, and
was buried by his own desire at the feet of Spenser. His bust, by Coysevo.v,
was a present from Louis XIV. His epitaph, by Dr. Freind, tells how, 1 while he
was writing the History of his own Times, Death interfered, and broke the thread
of his discourse.'

Granville Sharp, 1813, buried at Fulham. His monument, with a profile medallion
by Chantrey, was erected by the African Institution, in gratitude for his philan-
thropic exertions for the abolition of slavery.

Charles de St. Denis, M. de St. Evremond, 1703, the witty and dissolute
favourite of Charles II. A tablet and bust.

Christopher Anstey, 1805, whose fame rests solely upon the ' New Bath Guide,'
which, however, made him one of the most popular poets of his day !

Thomas Campbell, 1844, the author of 1 Hohenlinden 1 and ' Gertrude of
Wyoming.' He died at Boulogne. Beneath his statue, by Marshall, are engraved
some striking lines from his 1 Last Man.'

Sam?cel Taylor Coleridge, 1834, the poet and philosopher, buried at Highgate,
a bust by Thornycroft, given in 1885 by an American admirer.

Mrs. {Hannah) Pritchard, 1708, the actress, 'by Nature for the stage designed,'
as she is described in her epitaph by Whitehead.

Robert Souihey, poet-laureate, 1843, buried at Crosthwaite. A bust by Wcckcs.
He left above fifty published works, but is immortalised by his 'Thalaba,' ' Madoc,'
' Roderick,' and the ' Curse of Kehama.'

William Shahspeare, 1G1G, buried at Stratford-on-Avon.

' In poetry there is but one supreme,
Though there are other angels round his throne,
Mighty and beauteous, while his face is hid.' — W. S. Landor.

The monument, by Kent and Schconahcrs, was erected by public subscription
in 1740. The lines from the Tempest inscribed on the scroll which the figure holds
in his hand seem to have a peculiar application in the noble building where they
are placed —

' The cloud-capp'd towers, the gorgeous palaces,
The solemn temples, the great globe itself,
Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve ;
And, like this insubstantial pageant faded,
Leave not a rack behind.'

1 Hallam, Introd. to Lit. of Europe.

2 Mac Fleck hoc.

Westminster

James^ Thomson, 1748, buried at Richmond. His monument, designed by Robert
Adam, is a figure leaning upon a pedestal, which bears in relief the Seasons, in
commemoration of the work which has caused Thomson to rank amongst the best
of our descriptive poets.

Robert Burns, 1796. A bust by Steel, the cost defrayed by a subscription in
Scotland in 1883.

Nicholas Rowe, 1718, poet-laureate of George I., the translator of Lucan's ' Phar-
salia,' and author of the Fair Penitent and Jane Shore. His only daughter,
Charlotte Fane, is commemorated with him in a monument by Rysbrach. The
epitaph, by Pope, alludes to Rowe's widow in the lines —

' To thee so mourn'd in death, so loved in life,
The childless parent and the widow'd wife,
With tears inscribes this monumental stone,
That holds thine ashes, and expects her own.

But ; to the poet's excessive annoyance, after the stone was put up, the widow married
again.

John Gay, 1732, chiefly known by his ' Fables,' and by the play called the Beggar s
Opera, which was thought to do so much towards corrupting the morals of his time,
and which gave its author the name of the 1 Orpheus of Highwaymen.' His monu-
ment, by Rysbrach, was erected by the Duke and Duchess of Queensberry, who
Moved this excellent^ person living, and regretted him dead.' The Duchess v/as the
' lovely Kitty ' of Prior's verse, when Gay was

1 Nursed in Queensberry's ducal halls.'
Under a medallion portrait of the poet are his own strange lines —
' Life is a jest, and all things show it ;
I thought so once, and now I know it.'

And beneath is an epitaph by Pope, who was his intimate friend.

Oliver Goldsmith, 1774, buried at the Temple, author of the 'Vicar of Wakefield '
and the ' Deserted Village.' Sir J. Reynolds chose the site for the monument, and
Dr. Johnson \yrote the inscription in Latin, flatly refusing to accede to the petition of
all the other friends of Goldsmith (expressed in a round-robin), that he would celebrate
the poet's fame in the language in which he wrote. The medallion is by Nollekens.

Beyond this, we may consider ourselves to pass from the Poet's
Corner, and to enter upon the ' historical and learned side of the
south transept.'

John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich, 1743, buried in Henry VII. 's Chapel. A
Roman statue with allegorical figures, by Roubiliac. Canova considered the figure
of Eloquence (deeply attentive to the Duke's oratory) ' one of the noblest statues he
had seen in England.' The epitaph is by Paul Whitehead.

' It is said that, through the influence of Sir Edward Walpole, the monument in
memory of John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich, was confided to the hands of
Roubiliac. The design is a splendid conceit — the noble warrior and orator is
stretched out and expiring at the foot of a pyramid, on which History is writing his
actions, while Minerva looks mournfully on, and Eloquence deplores his fall. The
common allegorical materials of other monuments are here. Even History is in-
scribing a conceit — she has written John, Duke of^ Argyll and Gr — — there she
pauses and weeps. There is a visible want of unity in the action, and in this work
at least Roubiliac merits the reproach of Flaxman, that "he did not know how to
combine figures together so as to form an intelligible story." Yet no one, before or
since, has shown finer skill in rendering his figures individually excellent. Argyll
indeed seems reluctant to die, and History is a little too theatrical in her posture ;
but all defects are forgotten in looking at the figure of Eloquence, with her supplicat-
ing hand and earnest brow.' — Allati Cunningham.

George Frederick Handel, 1759. The tomb is the last work of Roubiliac, who
cast the face after death. The skill of Roubiliac is conspicuous in the ease which he
has given to the unwieldy figure of the great musician.

1 He who composed the music of the Messiah and the Israel in Egypt must have

The Aisle of History

been" a poet, no less than a musician, of no ordinary degree. Therefore he was not
unfitly buried in Poet's Corner, apart from his tuneful brethren. Not less than three
thousand persons of all ranks attended the funeral.' — Stanley.

William Makepeace Thackeray, 1863, buried at Kensal Green, the honoured
author of 'Vanity Fair,' 1 Esmond,' and 'The Newcomes.' A bust.

Joseph Addison, 1719, whose contributions to the Tatler and Spectator have caused
him to be regarded as the greatest of English essayists, and whose character stood
equally.high as an author, a man, and a Christian. His statue, by Wcstmacott, stands
on a pedestal surrounded by the Nine Muses. As we look at it we may remember
how he was accustomed to walk by himself in Westminster Abbey, and meditate on
the condition of those who lay in it.

' It represents him, as we can conceive him, clad in his dressing-gown, and freed
from his wig, stepping from his parlour at Chelsea into his trim little garden, with
the account of the Everlasting Club, or the Loves of Hilpa and Shalum, just finished
for the next day's Spectator, in his hand. Such a mark of national respect was due
to the unsullied statesman, to the accomplished scholar, to the master of pure English
eloquence, to the consummate painter of life and manners. It was due, above all, to
the great satirist, who alone knew how to use ridicule without abusing it, who, without
inflicting a wound, effected a great social reform, and who reconciled wit and virtue,
after a long and disastrous separation, during which wit had been led astray by
profligacy, and virtue by fanaticism.' — Macaulay.

Thomas Babington Macaulay, the poet and historian, 1859. A bust. On his
gravestone is inscribed, ' His body is buried in peace, but his name liveth for
evermore.'

Isaac Barmv, 1677, the wit, mathematician, and divine. He was the college
tutor of Sir Isaac Newton, whose optical lectures were published at his expense.
He died (being Master of Trinity, Cambridge) at one of the canonical houses in the
cloisters. In the words of his epitaph, he was 'a man almost divine, and truly great,
if greatness be comprised in piety, probity, and faith, the deepest learning, equal
modesty, and morals in every respect sanctified and sweet.'

fames Wyatt, the architect, 1813. A tablet.

(Above.) Dr. Stephen Hales, 1761, philosopher and botanist. The monument, by
Wilton, was erected by Augusta, 'the mother of that best of kings, George III.'
Religion stands on one side of the monument lamenting the deceased, while Botany,
on the other, holds his medallion, and, beneath, the Winds appear on a globe, in
allusion to the invention of ventilation by Hales. ,

Isaac Casaubon, 1614, the famous critic and scholar, editor of Persius and Polybius,
who received a canonry of Westminster from James I. On the monument, erected
by Bishop Morton, is to be seen the monogram of Izaak Walton, scratched by the
angler himself, with the date 1658.

Johann Ernst Grabe, 1711, the Orientalist, buried at St. Pancras. He was induced
to reside in England by his veneration for the Reformed Church, and was editor of
a valuable edition of the Septuagint, and of Athenacus.

William Camden, 1623 (buried before St. Nicholas's Chapel), the antiquary — ' the
British Pausanias,' who, a house-painter's son, became headmaster of Westminster.
The office of Clarcncieux King-at-Arms, which was bestowed upon him in 1597, gave
him time to become the author of the ' Britannia,' which caused him to be looked
upon as one of the glories of the reign of Elizabeth : he was afterwards induced by
Lord Burleigh to write the annals of that reign. The nose of the effigy was injured
by some Cavaliers, who broke into the Abbey to destroy the hearse of the Earl of
Essex, but it was restored by the University of Oxford.

'It is most worthy to be observed with what diligence he (Camden) inquired after
ancient places, making hue and cry after many a city which was run away, and by
certain marks and tokens pursuing to find it ; as by the situation on the Roman
highways, by just distance from other ancient cities, by some affinity of name, by
tradition of the inhabitants, by Roman coins digged up, and by some appearance of
ruins. A broken urn is a whole evidence ; or an old gate still surviving, out of which
the city is run out. Besides, commonly some new spruce town not far off is grown
out of the ashes thereof, which yet hath as much natural affection as dutifully to own
these reverend ashes for her mother.' — Fuller.

16 Westminster

David Garrick, 1779 the actor. His figure, drawing aside a curtain and dis-
closing a medallion of Shakespeare, is intended to be allegorical of the way in which
his theatrical performances unveiled the beauties of Shakspeare's works.
e To paint fair Nature by divine command,
Her magic pencil in his glowing hand,
A Shakspeare rose,— then to expand his fame,
Wide o er this " breathing world," a Garrick came.
1 hough sunk in death the forms the Poet drew,
The Actor's genius bade them breathe anew :
Though, like the Bard himself, in night they lay,
Immortal Garrick called them back to day.'
. Epitaph by Pratt.

During the funeral of Garrick, Burke remarked that the statue of Shakspeare
seemed to point to the grave where the great actor of his works was laid. This idea
is fixed in the verses of Sheridan 1—

'The throng that mourn'd as their dead favourite pass'd,
J he graced respect that claim'd him to the last ;
Whilst Shakspeare's image, from its hallo w'd base,
Seem'd to prescribe the grave and point the place.',

i Q ^ e£ 1u th f mon 4 ment J of Garrick is the grave of his friend Richard Cumberland
1811 the dramatist and essayist. His best monument is Goldsmith's portrait of him
in Retaliation, beginning —

1 Here Cumberland lies, having acted his parts,
The Terence of England, the mender of hearts •»
A flattering painter, who made it his care
To draw men as they ought to be, not as they are.'
Connop Thirlwall, Bishop of St. David's, 1875. A bust by C. Bacon.
George Grote, 1871, the historian of Greece. A bust by C. Bacon.
Amongst the illustrious dead who have tombstones in this
transept, but no monuments upon the walls, are (beginning from
the south wall)—

John Deuham ,1669 the poet of 'Cooper's Hill,' 'deservedly considered as
one of the fathers of English poetry.' 2

Dr. Samuel Johnson,^ 1784, the essayist, critic, and lexicographer. He was
buried here beside his friend Garrick, contrary to his desire that he might rest at
Adderley in Shropshire, which belonged to his friend Lady Corbet, cousin of Mrs.
Ihrale. His monument is in St. Paul's.

Richard Brinsley Sheridan, 1816, the dramatist (author of the Rivals, the
JJuenna, and the School for Scandal), who, being for many years in Parliament,
obtained an extraordinary reputation as an orator by his ' Begum Charge' before the
House of Commons in the proceedings against Warren Hastings. He was suffered
to die in great poverty, yet his funeral was conducted with a magnificence which
called forth the verses of Moore—

' Oh ! it sickens the heart to see bosoms so hollow,
And spirits so mean in the great and high-born,
To think what a long line of titles may follow

The relics of him who died— friendless and lorn !
How proud can they press to the funeral array

Of one whom they shunned in his sickness and sorrow
The bailiffs may seize his last blanket to-day,
Whose pall shall be held up by nobles to-morrow.'
John Henderson, the actor, 1785— equally great in comedy and tragedy.
Mary Eleanor Bowes, 1800, the beautiful and unfortunate widow of the ninth
Earl of Strathmore, buried amongst the poets on account of her brilliant wit and
her extraordinary mental acquirements.

1 Moore's Life of Sheridan.

2 Dr. Johnson.

The Aisle of History

Henry Cary, 1844, the translator of Dante.

Thomas Parr, ' of ye county of Salop, born in a.d. 1483. He lived in the reignes
often princes, viz.— King Edward IV., King Edward V., King Richard III., King
Henry VII., King Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen Elizabeth,
King James, King Charles ; aged 152 years, and was buryed here, 1635.'

Charles Dickens, 1870 (the grave is near the commemorative bust of Thackeray),
the illustrious author of many works, of which the 'Pickwick Papers,' 'Oliver
Twist,' ' Dombey and Son,' and ' David Copperfield ' are the best known.

Sir William Davcnant, 1668, who succeeded Ben Jonson as poet-laureate to
Charles I., being son of a vintner at Oxford. He was buried in the grave of Thomas
May, the poet (disinterred at the Restoration), with the inscription, ' O Rare Sir
William Davenant.'

Sir Richard Moray, 1673, one of the founders of the Royal Society, called by
Bishop Burnet 'the wisest and worthiest man of his age.'

Jai7zes Macpherson, 1796, author of ' Ossian,' brought hither from Inverness.

Thomas Chiffinch and John Osbaldiston, 1666, pages of the bedchamber to
Charles II.

Robert Adam, 1792, architect of the Adelphi Terrace and Osterley Park, &c.
Sir William Chambers, 1796, architect of Somerset House.

Willia?n Gifford, 1826, the eminent critic, best known as the editor of the
Quarterly Review from its commencement in 1819 to 1824.

John Ireland, Dean of Westminster, 1842, founder of the Ireland Scholarships
at Oxford.

William Spottiswoode, 1883, President of the Royal Society.

Between the pillars opposite Dryden's tomb is a slab from which the brass has
been torn away, covering the grave of Haivle, the knight murdered in the choir,
1378, during the Abbey service, by a breach of the rights of sanctuary. Oiven Tudor,
son of Queen Katherine de Valois, and uncle of Henry VII., himself a monk of West-
minster, lies near this.

Against the screen of the choir, on the right of its entrance, are
the tombs of —

Dr. Richard Busby, 1695, for fifty-five years headmaster of Westminster School.
His noble statue (by F. Bird) does not seem suggestive of the man who declared
that ' the rod^ was his sieve, and that whoever could not pass through that, was
no boy for him.' He is celebrated for having persistently kept his hat on when
Charles II. came to visit his school, saying that it would never do for the boys to
think any one superior to himself.

'As we stood before Dr. Busby's tomb, the knight (Sir Roger de Coverley) uttered
himself again : * Dr. Busby ! a great man ! he whipped my grandfather ; a very great
man ! I should have gone to him myself if I had not been a blockhead ; a very great
man!' — Addison^ in the 1 Spectator*

Dr. William Vincent, 1815, headmaster and Dean. A tablet.

Dr. Robert South, 1716, Archdeacon of Westminster. As a Westminster boy,
when leading the devotions of the school, he boldly prayed for Charles I. by name
on the morning of his execution. He was afterwards chaplain to James, Duke of
York; Canon of Christ Church, Oxford, and of Westminster, of which he refused
the Deanery when it was offered to him on the death of Dean Sprat. He was equally
famous for his learning and wit, and for his theological and political intolerance.
Bishop Burnet speaks of him as ' this learned but ill-natured divine.'

' South had great qualifications for that popularity which attends the pulpit, and
his manner was at that time original. Not diffuse, not learned, not formal in argu-
ment like Barrow, with a more natural structure of sentences, a more pointed, though
by no means a more fair and satisfactory, turn of reasoning, with a style clear and
English, free from all pedantry, but abounding with those colloquial novelties of idiom
which, though now become vulgar and offensive, the age of Charles II. affected ; spar-
ing no personal or temporary sarcasm ; but if he seems for a moment to tread on the

Westminster

verge of buffoonery, recovering himself by some stroke of vigorous sense and language ;
such was the witty Dr. South, whom the courtiers delighted to h.e&r.'—Hallam,
' Hist, of the Lit. of Europe.'

1 South's sentences are gems, hard and shining ; Voltaire's look like them, but are
only French paste.' — Guesses at Truth.

We may now enter * the solemn byways of the Abbey ' — the aisles
surrounding the choir, outside which cluster — with reference, as
some suppose, to the communion of saints — a number of hexagonal
chapels, which were probably built by Henry III. in imitation
of those which he had himself seen in course of construction in
several of the northern cathedrals of France. These chapels contain
all that is most precious in the Abbey. The gates of the choir aisles
are guarded by vergers.

[The chapels are usually only too freely opened to the public, to the great risk of
injury to their precious contents; on four days in the week a fee of sixpence is
deposited on entering, and visitors are shown round by a verger.

Visitors may, however, on the closed days, obtain permission to linger in the chapels
and to examine them by themselves, which will be imperative with all who are in-
terested in the historic or art treasures they contain.

Permission to draw in the chapels may be obtained by personal or written applica-
tion to the Dean ; and no church in the world — not even St. Mark's at Venice, St.
Stephen's at Vienna, or the Mosque at Cordova — affords such picturesque subjects.^

Royal tombs, when given here in small type, with other tombs most important in
the history of art, are marked with an asterisk.]

On entering the aisles of the choir, we pass at once from the false
taste of the last two centuries, to find the surroundings in harmony
with the architecture. The ancient altars are gone, very little of
the old stained glass remains, several of the canopies and many of
the brasses and statuettes have been torn from the tombs ; but,
with these exceptions, the hand of the worst of destroyers — the
' restorer ' — has been allowed to rest here more than in any other of
our great English churches ; and, except in the introduction of the
atrocious statue of Watt, and the destruction of some ancient screens
for the monuments of Lord Bath and General Wolfe, there is little
which jars upon the exquisite colouring and harmonious beauty of
the surroundings.

On the left is the gothic ' tomb of touchstone ' erected by Henry
III. to Sebert, King of the East Saxons, 616, and his Queen, Ethelgoda,
when he moved their bones from the chapter-house, where they were
first buried. Over this tomb, under glass, is a curious altar-decora-
tion of the fourteenth century.

' In the centre is a figure which appears to be intended for Christ, holding the
globe and in the act of blessing ; an angel with a palm branch is on each side. The
single figure at the left hand of the whole decoration is St. Peter ; the figure that
should correspond on the right, and all the Scripture subjects on that side, are gone.
In the compartments to the left, between the figure of St. Peter and the centre
figures, portions of three subjects remain : one represents the Adoration of the
Kings ;. another, apparently, the Raising of Lazarus; the subject of the third is
doubtful, though some figures remain ; the fourth is destroyed. These single figures
and subjects are worthy of a good Italian artist of the fourteenth century.^ The
remaining decorations were splendid and costly : the small compartments in the
architectural enrichments are filled with variously coloured pieces of glass inlaid on
tinfoil, and have still a brilliant effect. This interesting work of art is supposed to
have originally formed part of the decorations of the high a\tzr.'— East lake, 'Hist,
of Oil Pain ting. '

Chapel of St. Benedict

Beyond this, the eye, wearied with the pagan sculptures of the
transept, rests in ecstasy upon the lovely details of the tombs of
Richard II. and Edward III.

1 In St. Peter's at Rome one is convinced that it was built by great princes. In
Westminster Abbey one thinks not of the builder ; the religion of the place makes
the first impression, and, though stripped of its shrines and altars, it is nearer
converting one to Popery than all the regular pageantry of Roman domes. One
must have taste to be sensible of the beauties of Grecian architecture; one only
wants passion to feel Gothic. Gothic churches infuse superstition, Grecian temples
admiration. The Papal See amassed its wealth by Gothic cathedrals, and displays it
in Grecian temples.' — Walpole.

We must now turn to the chapels.

' I wandered among what once were chapels, but which are now occupied by the
tombs and monuments of the great. At every turn I met with rare illustrious names,
or the cognisance of some powerful house renowned in history. As the eye darts
into these dusky chambers of death, it catches glimpses of quaint effigies ; some
kneeling in niches, as if in devotion ; others stretched upon the tombs, with hands
piously pressed together ; warriors in armour, as if reposing after battle ; prelates
with crosiers and mitres ; and nobles in robes and coronets, lying as it were in state.
In glancing over this scene, so strangely populous, yet where every form is so still
and silent, it seems almost as if we were treading a mansion of that fabled
city where every being has been suddenly transmuted into stone.'-^JVas/ii;/gtou
Irving.

On the right is the Chapel of St. Benedict, or Bennet, separated
only from the south transept by a screen of monuments. The
fine tomb in the centre is that of Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middle-
sex, 1645, Lord High Treasurer in the time of James I., and Anne,
his wife ; it is one of the latest instances of a monument in which
the figures have animals at their feet. 1 His grave, with those of
other members of his family, is beneath the pavement of the aisle.
Other tombs are —

(South Wall.) George Sprat (1682), son of the Dean of Westminster.

Gabriel Goodman, Dean of Westminster, 1G01, of whom Fuller says, 1 Goodman
was his name and goodness was his nature.' It was under this Dean that the Pro-
testant services of the Abbey were re-established.

(At the east end, on the site of the altar.) Frances Howard, Countess of Hertford,
1598, sister of Howard of Effingham, the Lord High Admiral who repulsed the
Armada, daughter-in-law of the Protector Somerset, and cousin of Edward VI. She
lived till the fortieth year of Elizabeth, 1 greately favoured by her gratious sovereigne,
and dearly beloved of her lord.'

Abbot Curtlyngton, 1334, the first person buried in the. chapel. His brass is torn
away.,

"*(East Wall.) Abbot Simon Langham, 1376. A noble alabaster statue in perfect
preservation on an altar-tomb : it once had a canopy, and a statue of Mary Magdalen,
on the eve of whose feast the abbot died, stood at the feet. He was in turn Bishop
of Ely, Archbishop of Canterbury, Cardinal Bishop of Praeneste, Lord High Treasurer,
and Lord Chancellor. He was brought back to be buried here from Avignon, where
he died. His immense benefactions to the Abbey are recorded by Godwin, yet his
unpopularity appears in the verses which commemorate his translation from Ely to
Canterbury —

' The Isle of Ely laught when Simon from her went,
But hundred thousand wept at his coming into Kent.' 2

1 Gough, Sepulchral Monuments.

2 Weever's Funeral Monuments.

Westminster

William Bill, 1561, the first Elizabethan Dean of Westminster, Grand Almoner
to the Queen, a good and learned man, and 'a friend to those that were so.'

John Spottisvvoode, 1639, Archbishop of Glasgow, is believed to be buried here.
He wrote the ' History of the Scottish Church,' at the command of James I., ' who,
being told that some passages in it might possibly bear too hard upon the memory
of his Majesty's mother, bid him " write the truth and spare not." ' 1

Between the Chapels of St. Benedict and St. Edmund is the tomb
of four of the Children of Henry III. (Richard, John, Henry, and
Katherine), once adorned with mosaics. The State Records con-
tain the king's order for its erection, and for allowing Simon de
Wells five marks and a half for bringing a brass image from the
City, and William de Gloucester seventy marks for a silver image
— both being for the tomb of the king's little dumb daughter
Katherine, of five years old, for whom mass was daily said in the
hermitage of Charing.

'Katherine, third daughter of King Henry III. and Queen Eleanor, was born
at London, a.d. 1252, Nov. 25th, being St. Katherine's day, whose name was
therefore given unto her at the Font, by Boniface, Archbishop of Canterbury, her
uncle and godfather. She dyed in her very infancy, on whom we will presume
to bestow this epitaph —

" Wak't from the wombe, she on this world did peep,
Dislik't it, clos'd her eyes, fell fast asleep." ' — Fullers Worthies.

In the pavement of the aisle are the tombs of Robert Tounson,
Dean of Westminster and Bishop of Salisbury, 1621 ; of Cicely Rat-
cliffe, 1396 ; of Thomas Bilson, 1616, Bishop of Winchester, the 'deep
and profound scholar ; ' 2 and of Sir John de Betverley, and his wife,
Anne Buxall, which once bore brasses. Beneath the tomb of
Richard II. is believed to lie Queen Anne of Warwick, the unhappy
Anne Neville, who married first the Prince of Wales, Edward,
son of Henry VI. After his murder at Tewkesbury she fled from
the addresses of his cousin, the Duke of Gloucester, afterwards
Richard III., but was discovered disguised as a kitchenmaid, and
married to him against her will. She died in less than two years
after her coronation, of grief for the loss of her only child, Edward,
Prince of Wales.

St. Edmund's Chapel (the first of the hexagonal chapels), dedi-
cated to Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, is separated from
the aisle by an ancient wooden screen. It is crowded with in-
teresting monuments. In the centre are three tombs.

*That in the midst bears a glorious brass in memory of Eleanor de Bohun,
Duchess of Gloucester, daughter of the Earl of Hertford, and wife of Thomas
of Woodstock, youngest son of Edward III., buried in the Confessor's Chapel.
After her husband's arrest and assassination, she became a nun of Barking Abbey,
where she died in 1399. Her figure, in a widow's dress, lies under a triple
canopy.

Beyond Eleanor, on the south, are the tomb and cross of Robert de Waldeby,
Archbishop of 'York '(1397), the friend of the Black Prince and tutor of Richard II.
On the north is Mary Villiers, Countess of Stafford (1694), wife of William
Howard, the Earl beheaded under Charles II. At her feet rests Henry Feme,
Bishop of Chester (1662), who attended Charles I. during his imprisonment, and
' whose only fault it was that he could not be angry.' 3

l Bishop Nicholson, Scot. Hist. 2 Fuller's Worthies.

3 See Stanley, Memorials, 243.

Chapel of St. Edmund

Making the circuit of the chapel from the right, we find the
tombs of —

* William de Valence, Earl of Pembroke (1296). He was half-brother to Henry III. r
being the son of Queen Isabella, widow of John, by her second marriage with
Hugh le Brune, Earl of March and Poictiers. William, surnamed from his birth-
place, was sent to England with his brothers in 1247, and the distinction with which
they were treated was one of the grievances which led to the war with the barons.
He fought in the battle of Lewes, and fleeing the kingdom afterwards, was killed at
Bayonne. An indulgence of a hundred days was granted to all who prayed by this
tomb, which is very curious. It was erected by William's son, Aylmer, and is a
stone altar-tomb, supporting a wooden sarcophagus, upon which lies the effigy,
which is of wood covered with gilt copper. The belt and cushion, and, above all,
the shield, are most beautiful examples of the use of enamelled metal as applied to
monumental decoration. Many of the small shields upon the cushion and surcoat
bear the arms of Valence, others those of England.

Edward Talbot, eighth Earl of Shrewsbury (1617), and his wife, Jane Citthbert.
A fine Elizabethan tomb, once richly gilt, with effigies in the costume of James I.
A little daughter kneels at her mother's feet.

(In the pavement.) Edward, Lord Herbert of Chcrbury (1678), grandson of the
famous Lord Herbert. A blue stone.

Sir Richard Pecksall (1571), Master of the Buck hounds to Elizabeth, kneeling
with his two wives, under three Corinthian arches. Four daughters kneel beneath
their father.

A great gothic recess containing the effigy of Sir Bernard Brocas (1399-1400),
Chamberlain to the queen of Richard II., beheaded on Tower Hill for joining in a
conspiracy to reinstate him. He won the head of a crowned Moor, on which his
helmet rests, and it was before this tomb that Sir Roger de Coverley listened par-
ticularly to the account of the lord who had 1 cut off the King of Morocco's head.' 1
The statue is in complete armour.

(In front.) Humphrey Bourchier, son of Lord Berners, who died 1471, fighting for
Edward IV. in the battle of Barnet. The brass figure is gone, but some shields and
other ornaments remain.

John, Lord Russell (1584), second son of the second Earl. He lies with his face
towards the spectator. At his feet is his infant son Francis, who died in the same
year. His widow, Elizabeth, daughter of Sir Anthony Cooke, and sister of Lady
Burleigh, who 'from Deathe would take his memorie,' commemorates his virtues in
Latin, Greek, and English. She was first married to Sir Thomas Hobby of Bisham
Abbey, where she is supposed to have beaten her little boy to death for blotting his
copy-book, and which is still haunted by her ghost.

Elizabeth Russell (1601), daughter of the above John, seated asleep in her osier chair,
with her foot upon a scroll, and the epitaph, ' Dormit, non mortua est.' The pedestal
is very richly decorated. This figure was formerly shown as that of a lady who
died of the prick of a needle. Sir Roger de Coverley ' was conducted to the figure
which represents that martyr to good housewifery who died by the prick of a needle.
Upon our interpreter's telling us that she was a maid of honour to Queen Elizabeth,
the knight was very inquisitive into her name and family ; and, after having regarded
her finger for some time, "I wonder," says he, "that Sir Richard Baker has . c aid
nothing of her in his Chronicle." ' — Spectator, No. 329.

(Beneath the pavement, buried here, from his supposed relationship to Humphrey
Bourchier) Edward Bulwer Lytton, Lord Lytton (1872), the novelist, chiefly known
as the author of 1 Rienzi,' ' The Last Days of Pompeii/ and ' The Caxtons.'

Lady Jane Seymour (1561), daughter of Edward, Duke of Somerset, and cousin
of Edward VI. A tablet.

1 An inscription recording this feat formerly hung above the tomb. See Gough's
Sepulchral Monuments*

Westminster

Katherine, Lady Knollys (1568), daughter of William Carey and his wife Mary
Boleyn, and sister to Lord Hunsdon. She attended her aunt, Queen Anne Boleyn,
upon the scaffold, and was afterwards Chief Lady of the Bedchamber to her cousin
Elizabeth. A tablet.

On a pedestal, the seated figure of Francis Holies (1622), third son of John, Earl of
Clare, who died at eighteen on his return from the Flemish war. He is represented
(by Nicholas Stone) in Roman armour, with the epitaph —

' Man's life is measured by his worke, not dayes ;
No aged sloth, but active youth, hath prayse '

The statue on the tomb of Francis Holies marks an artistic era. It is the first
that wears the dress of a Roman general.

* Frances Grey, Duchess of Suffolk (1559), niece of Henry VIII., 'daughter of
Charles Brandon, Duke of Southfolke, and Marie the French queen, first wife to
Henrie, Duke of Southfolke, after to Adrian Stocke, Esq.' By her second husband,
married during the great poverty and distress into which she fell in the reign of Mary
(after the death of her daughter, Lady Jane Grey), this tomb was erected, bearing a
beautiful coroneted effigy. Her funeral service was the first English Protestant
service after the accession of Elizabeth, by whom she was restored to favour.

Nicholas Monk, Bishop of Hereford (1661), brother of the famous Duke of
Albemarle.

(In the corner.) Tablet to John Paul Ho7vard, Earl of Stafford (1762), surrounded
by the quarterings of the Stafford family, who descend by ten different marriages
from the royal blood of France and England. The epitaph tells how 'his heart was
entirely great and noble as his high descent; faithful to his God; a lover of his
country ; a relation to relations ; a detester of detraction ; a friend to mankind.'

* William of Windsor and Blanche of the Tower (1340), infant children of Edward
III. A tiny altar-tomb bears their effigies — the boy in a short doublet, with flowing
hair encircled by a band ; the girl in studded bodice, petticoat, and mantle, with a
horned head-dress.

It is interesting to remember the illustrious brothers and sisters of the little
Princess Blanche who stood round this her grave at her funeral — Edward the
Black Prince, Lionel of Clarence, Isabella de Coucy, and Joanna, afterwards Queen
of Castile.

*John ofEltham, Earl of Cornwall (1334), second son of Edward II. (named from
his birthplace), who died in his nineteenth year, and was expressly ordered to be
buried ' entre les Roials.' The effigy is of great antiquarian interest from the details
of its plate armour. The Prince wears a surcoat, gorget, and helmet, the last open in
front to show the features, and surrounded by a coronet of large and small trefoil leaves
alternated, being the earliest known representation of the ducal form of coronet. 1
Two angels sit by the pillow, and around the tomb are mutilated figures of the royal
relations of the dead. The statuettes of the French relations are towards the chapel,
and have been cruelly mutilated, but the English relations facing St. Edward's
Chapel have been protected^ by the strong oak screen, and are of the most intense
interest. Edward II., who is buried in Gloucester Cathedral, is represented here.
Here, on the left hand of the husband whose cruel murder she caused, is the only
known portrait of the wicked Isabella the Fair, daughter of Philip le Bel, who died
at Castle Rising in 1358 ; she wears a crown at the top of her widow's hood, and
holds a sceptre m her right hand. Here also alone can we become acquainted with
the characteristics of her aunt, the stainless Marguerite of France, the grand-daughter
of St. Louis, who at the age of twenty became the second wife of Edward I., and
dying at Marlborough Castle in 1317, was buried in the Grey Friar's Church in London ;
she wears a crown of fleur-de-lis over her widow's veil. This tomb of Prince John
was once shaded by a canopy of exquisite beauty, supported on eight stone pillars
— a forest of gothic spires intermingled with statues ; it was destroyed in a rush of
spectators at the funeral of the Duchess of Northumberland in 1776. Fuller men-
tions John of Eltham as the last son of a king of England who died a plain Earl ; the
title of Duke afterwards came into fashion.

There were no dukes in England until the year after his death.

Chapel of St. Nicholas

Passing, on the right wall of the -ambulatory, the monument of
Richard Tufton (1631), brother of the first Earl of Thane t, who
gave his name to Tuf ton Street, Westminster ; and treading on the
grave of Sir Henry Spelman, the antiquary (1641), whose pennon
formerly hung above his grave, 1 we enter the Chapel of St. Nicholas
(Bishop of Myra), separated from the aisle by a perpendicular stone
screen adorned with a frieze of shields and roses. It is rilled with
Elizabethan tombs, and is still the especial burial-place of the
Percys. In the centre is a noble altar-tomb by Nicholas Stone 2 to
Sir George Villiers (1606), the Leicestershire squire who was the

TOMB OF THE CHILDREN OF EDWARD III.

father of the famous Duke of Buckingham, and his wife, Mary
Beaumont. This Sir George Villiers was the subject of the famous
ghost-story given by Clarendon, 3 the £ man of venerable aspect' who
thrice drew the curtains of the bed of a humble friend at Windsor,
and bade him go to his son the Duke of Buckingham, and warn him
that, if he did not seek to ingratiate himself with the people, he
would have but a short time to live. This Mary Beaumont it was
who, as Countess of Buckingham, also so vividly foresaw her son's
death, that though she had been ' overwhelmed in tears and in the
highest agony imaginable,' after taking leave of him upon his last

1 Aubrey. 2 Erected at a cost of £560,

3 History of the Rebellion.

24 Westminster

visit to her, yet, when she received the news of his murder, 'seemed
not in the least degree surprised.'

Making the circuit of the chapel from the right, we see the
tombs of —

*Philippa, Duchess of York (1431 or 1433), daughter of John, Lord Mohun, and
wife of Sir John Golofre, and of Edmund Plantagenet (' Eadmund of Langley '),
fifth son of Edward III., and lastly, of Lord Fitzwalter. After the death of her
royal husband she obtained the Lordship of the Isle of Wight, and resided in Caris-
brook Castle, where she died, and whence she was brought with royal honours to
Westminster. Her effigy (much injured) wears a long cloak and mantle, with a
wimple and plaited veil. Her tomb is the earliest in this chapel, in the centre of
which it formerly stood. It once had a canopy decorated with stars and a painting
of the Passion.

Elizabeth Percy Duchess of Northumberland 1 in her own right Baroness

Percy, Lucy, Poynings, Fitz-Payne, Bryan, and Latimer ; sole heiress of Algernon,
Duke of Somerset, and of the ancient Earls of Northumberland.' The Percy family
still maintain the right of sepulture in this chapel.

Winifred Brydges, Marchioness of Winchester (1586). Above this the effigy of
Elizabeth, Lady Ross (1591), wife of the Earl of Exeter, grandson of Lord Burghley.

The gothic canopied altar-tomb of William Dudley (1483), first Dean of Windsor,
and Bishop of Durham, uncle of Henry VII. 's financier. His figure is gone.

An obelisk of white marble on a black pedestal supports a vase containing the heart
of Anne Sophia, the infant daughter of Count Bellamonte, ambassador from France
to James I. She died in 1605.

Tomb of Mildred Cecil, Lady Burghley (1589), one of the four learned daughters
of Sir Anthony Cooke, and Anne Vere, Countess of Oxford (1588), the wife and
daughter of the great Lord Burghley. An enormous Corinthian tomb, twenty-four feet
high. The figure of Lady Burghley lies on a sarcophagus ; at her head are her three
grand-daughters, Elizabeth, Bridget, and Susannah ; and at her feet her only son,
Robert Cecil. In a recess is the recumbent figure of the Countess of Oxford. In
the upper story Lord Burghley is seen, kneeling in his robes — the effigy in which Sir
Roger de Coverley was 1 well pleased to see the statesman Cecil on his knees.' The
epitaphs are from his pen, and tell how 1 his eyes were dim with tears for those who
were dear to him beyond the whole race of womankind.' Lord Burghley himself lay
in state here, but was buried at Stamford.

Sir George Fane (1618), and his wife, Elizabeth le Despencer. ' A mural monu-
ment, with kneeling statues.

Nicholas, Lord Carevv (1470), the friend of Edward IV., and his wife. A plain
altar-tomb.

Nicholas Bagenall, an infant of two months old, ' by his nvrs unfortvnately
overlayd ' (1688). A pedestal with a black pyramid and urn. We know from her
will that the nurse, Frances Dobbs, never ceased to lament her little darling, and
bequeathing all her possessions to the child's mother, Lady Anne Bagenall,
urgently begged to be buried as near him as possible. 1

*Anne Seymour, Duchess of Somerset (1587), widow of the great Protector,
sister-in-law of Queen Jane, and aunt of Edward VI. She died aged ninety, for
on in the reign of Elizabeth. The tomb was erected by her son, Lord Hertford,
'in this doleful dutie carefull and diligent.'

Lady Jane Clifford (1679), great-granddaughter of the Protector Somerset. An
odd square sarcophagus.

*Sir Humphrey Stanley (1505), who fought for Henry VII. at the battle of
Bosworth, where he was knighted on the field of battle. A brass of a figure in
plate armour.

Elizabeth Brooke (1591), wife of Sir Robert Cecil, son of the great Lord Burghley.
An altar-tomb.

1 Col. Chester's ed. of The Registers of Westminster Abbey, p. 200.

Chapel of Henry VII.

Returning to the aisle, on the left is the monument of Sir Robert
Ayton, 1637, the poet, secretary to Anne of Denmark and Henrietta
Maria, with a noble bust. On the right is that of Sir Thomas Ingram,
Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster, 1671. Beneath the pavement
lie Abbot Berlcyng, Lord High Treasurer, 1246, and Sir John Golofre,
1396, first husband of Philippa, Duchess of York.

We now reach the glorious portico which overarches the aisle
under the Oratory of Henry V. Beneath it, in an awful gloom,
which is rendered more solemn by the play of golden light within,
a grand flight of steps leads to the Chapel of Henry VII., erected
under the care of Bolton, the Architect-Prior of St. Bartholomew's,
in the place of the Lady Chapel of Henry III., 1 the burial-place of
almost all the sovereigns from Henry VII. to George II., the finest
perpendicular building in England, called by Leland 'the miracle
of the world,' — far finer than its rival, King's College at Cambridge.
Henry VII. intended that the body of Henry VI. should be moved
from Windsor to his new chapel, and the Abbey of Westminster
actually paid £500 for the removal, but the project was never
carried out.

c The Chapel of Henry VII. is indeed well called by his name, for it breathes of
himself through every part. It is the most signal example of the contrast between
his closeness in life, and his "magnificence in the structures he hath left to pos-
terity" — King's College Chapel, the Savoy, Westminster. Its very style was a
reminiscence of his exile, being "learned in France" by himself and his companion
Fox. His pride in its grandeur was commemorated by the ship, vast for those
times, which he built, "of equal cost with his chapel," "which afterwards, in the
reign of Mary, sank in the sea and vanished in a moment."

'It was to be his chantry as well as his tomb, for he was determined not to be
behind the Lancastrian princes in devotion ; and this unusual anxiety for the sake
of a soul not too heavenward in its affections expended itself in the immense
apparatus of services which he provided. Almost a second abbey was needed to con-
tain the new establishment of monks, who were to sing in their stalls "as long as the
world shall endure." Almost a second shrine, surrounded by its blazing tapers, and
shining like gold with its glittering bronze, was to contain his remains.

{ To. the Virgin Mary, to whom the chapel was dedicated, he had a special devo-
tion. "Her in all his necessities he had made his continual refuge;" and her
figure, accordingly, looks down upon his grave from the east end, between the
apostolic patrons of the Abbey, Peter and Paul, with "the holy company of heaven
— that is to say, angels, archangels, patriarchs, prophets, apostles, evangelists,
martyrs, confessors, and virgins," to "whose singular mediation and prayers he
also trusted," including the royal saints of Britain, St. Edward, St. Edmund, St.
Oswald, St. Margaret of Scotland, who stand, as he directed, sculptifred, tier above
tier, on every side of the chapel, some retained from the ancient Lady Chapel, the
greater part the work of his own age. Round his tomb stand his nine "accus-
tomed avours or guardian saints," to whom "he calls and cries" — "St. Michael,
St. John the Baptist, St. John the Evangelist, St. George, St. Anthony, St. Edward,
St. Vincent, St. Anne, St. Mary Magdalene, and St. Barbara," each with their
peculiar emblems, — "so to aid, succour, and defend him, that the ancient and
ghostly enemy, nor none other evil or damnable spirit, have no power to invade
him, nor with their wickedness to annoy him, but with holy prayers to be inter-
cessors for him to his Maker and Redeemer." These were the adjurations of the
last mediaeval king, as the chapel was the climax of the latest mediaeval archi-
tecture. In the very urgency of the King's anxiety for the perpetuity of those
funeral ceremonies, we seem to discern an unconscious presentiment of terror lest
their days were numbered.' — Dean Stanley.

1 Found, by the excavations made at a recent funeral, to have been nearly of the
same dimensions as the present chapel.

Westminster

It is said that on looking back from the portico of Henry VII. 's
Chapel, every phase of gothic architecture, from Henry III. to
Henry VII., may be seen. The glorious brass gates are adorned
with all the badges of the founder— the fleur-de-lis, the portcullis
and crown, the crown surrounded by daisies (in allusion to his
mother Margaret), the dragon of Cadwallader (in allusion to the
descent of Owen Tudor from that British king), the falcon and
fetterlock, the thistle and crown, the united roses of York and
Lancaster entwined with the crown, the initials H.E., the royal
crown, and the three lions of England. The devices of Henry VII.
are also borne by the angels sculptured on the frieze at the west
end of the chapel. The windows have traces of the red rosqs of
Lancaster and of the fleur-de-lis and H's with which they were once
filled ; from the end window the figure of Henry VII. looks down
upon the whole. Seventy-three statues, whose 1 natural simplicity
and grandeur of character and drapery ' are greatly commended by
Flaxman, surround the walls. The fifth figure from the east in the
south aisle represents a bearded woman leaning on a cross. It is
St. Wilgefortis, also called St. Uncumber and St. Liberada, and
was honoured by those who wished to be set free from an unhappy
marriage. She prayed for release from a compulsory marriage, and
her prayer was granted, through the beard which grew in one
night.

' The very walls are wrought into universal ornament, encrusted with tracery,
and scooped into niches, crowded with statues of saints and martyrs. Stone
seems, by the cunning labour of the chisel, to have been robbed of its weight
and density, suspended aloft, as if by magic, and the fretted roof achieved with
the wonderful minuteness and airy security of a cobweb.' — Washington Irving.

The stalls of the Knights of the Bath surround the chapel, with
the seats for the esquires in front. The end stall on the right is
decorated with a figure of Henry VII. The sculptures on the
misereres are exceedingly quaint, chiefly monkish satires on the
evil lives of their brethren. Amongst them are combats between
monks and nuns, a monk seized and a monk carried off by the
devil, one boy whipping another, apes gathering nuts, and a fox in
armour riding a goose. The best is the Judgment of Solomon;
the cause of the contention — the substitution of the dead for the
living child — is represented with ludicrous simplicity, repeated on
either side of the bracket.

The centre of the chapel towards the east is occupied by a
splendid closure of gilt copper containing the glorious tomb of
Henry VII. (1509) and Elizabeth of York (1503), ' one of the stateliest
and daintiest monuments of Europe,' 1 executed for £1500 by the
famous Pietro Torrigiano; the screen, which is no less beautiful,
being the work of English artisans. Torrigiano is said to have
sought the assistance of Benvenuto Cellini in the figures, and that
great artist, then at the court of Francis I., was disposed to give

1 Lord Bacon.

Chapel of Henry VII.

it at first, and then, finding that in his quarrel with Michelangelo,
Torrigiano had so far forgotten himself as to strike that great man,
he refused to have any more to do with one who could be guilty of
such an act of sacrilege. The tomb is chiefly of black marble, but
the figures and surrounding alto-relievos and pilasters aj*e of gilt
copper. The figures, wrapped in long mantles which descend to
the feet, are most simple and beautiful. They once wore crowns,
which have been stolen. Within the screen, Henry enjoined by
his will that there should be a small altar, enriched with relics
— one of the legs of St. George and a great piece of the Holy
Cross.

Elizabeth of York, daughter of Edward IV., by whose marriage
the long feud between the Houses of York and Lancaster was ter-

minated, died in childbirth at the Tower, February 11, 1502-3 —
the anniversary of her birthday. Her sister, Lady Katharine
Courtenay, was chief mourner at her magnificent funeral in the
Abbey. Henry survived his wife for over six years, and died at
Richmond in 1509. Bishop Fisher preached his funeral sermon,
which was printed by Wynkyn dc Worde at the desire of the ' king's
moder.'

'In this chappel the founder thereof, with his queen, lieth mterr'd, under a
monument of solid brass, most richly gilded, and artificially carved. Some
slight it for the cheapness, because it cost but a thousand pounds in the making
thereof. Such do not consider it as the work of so thrifty a prince, who would
make a little money go far ; besides that it was just at the turning of the tide

HENRY VII. (WOODEN FIGURE).

Westminster

(as one may term it) of money, which flowed after the finding out of the West
Indies, though ebbing before.' — Fuller's Worthies.

Henry VII. ' was of a high mind, and loved his own will and his own way ; as
one that revered himself, and would reign indeed. Had he been a private man
he would have been termed proud. But in a wise prince, it was but keeping of
distance, which indeed he did towards all. ... To his confederates he was con-
stant and just, but not open. ... He was a prince, sad, virtuous, and full of
thoughts and secret observations, and full of notes and memorials of his own
hand, especially touching persons. ... No doubt, in him, as in all men, and
most of all in him, his fortune wrought upon his nature, and his nature upon his
fortune. He attained to the crown, not only from a private fortune, which
might endow him with moderation ; but also from the fortune of an exiled man,
which had quickened in him all seeds of observation and industry. And his
times being rather prosperous than calm, had raised his confidence by success,
but almost marred his nature by troubles.' — Bacon's Life of Henry VII.

In the same vault with Henry and Elizabeth rest$ the huge
coffin of James I. (1625). His funeral sermon was preached by Dean
Williams, who compared him to Solomon in eight particulars !

In front of the tomb of his grandparents is the restored altar
which marks the burial-place of King Edward VI. (1553), who died
at Greenwich in his sixteenth year — the good and strangely learned
prince of whom Hooker says that * though he died young, he lived
long, for life is in action? ' At his burying,' says Henry Machyn,
'was the greatest moan made for him of his death, as ever was
heard or seen, both of all sorts of people, weeping and lamenting. 5

1 That godly and royal child, King Edward the Sixth, the flower of the Tudor
name — the young flower that was untimely cropped as it began to fill our land
with its early odours — the boy-patron of boys— the serious and holy child who
walked with Cranmer and Ridley— fit associate, in those tender years, for the
bishops and future martyrs of our Church, to receive, or (as occasion sometimes
proved) to give instruction.' — Charles Lamb.

The ancient altar— a splendid work of Torrigiano, which bore
a wonderful terra-cotta figure of the dead Christ surrounded
by angels — was destroyed by Sir Kobert Harlow in the Civil
Wars, 1 but part of the frieze was found in 1869 in the young king's
grave, and has been let into the modern altar. It is admirable
carving of the Eenaissance, and shows the Tudor roses and the
lilies of France interwoven with a scrollwork pattern. On the
coffin-plate of the young king is inscribed — after his royal titles
— ' On earth under Christ of the Church of England and Ireland
supreme head' — having been evidently engraved during the nine
days' reign of Lady Jane Grey. The reconstructed altar was first
used in 1870, on the strange occasion when Dean Stanley admi-
nistered the Sacrament to the revisers of the New Testament —
'representatives of almost every form of Christian belief in England '
— before they commenced their labours.

Inserted in this altar of toleration, by a quaint power of seeing
threads of connection where they are not generally apparent, are
a fragment of an Abyssinian altar brought from Magdala in 18G8 ;
a fragment of a Greek church in Damascus, destroyed during the

l Fragments still exist in the Triforium.

Chapel of Henry VII.

Christian massacre of 18G0 ; and a fragment of the high altar of
Canterbury, destroyed when the cathedral was burnt in 1174.

Making the circuit of the chapel from the right, we see in the
pavement the inscribed graves of —

Henry Frederick, Duke of Cumberland (1790), fourth sou of Frederick, Prince
of Wales.

Caroline (1757), third daughter, and Amelia (1786), second daughter, of George II.

Louisa (1768), third daughter of Frederick, Prince of Wales, and Edward,
Duke of York (1767), his second son, who died at Monaco.

Queen Caroline of Ansyach (1737),— the Queen of the 'Heart of Midlothian,'
buried here with Handel's newly composed anthem, ' When the ear heard her,
then it blessed her,' &c.

King George II. (1760), the last sovereign buried at Westminster, who desired
that his dust might mingle with that of his beloved wife, in accordance with
which one side of each of the coffins was withdrawn, and they rest together.

We now reach a chantry, separated from the chapel by a screen,
of which only the basement remains, containing the gigantic monu-
ment of —

Ludovic Stuart, Duke of Richmond and Lennox (1624), cousin of J ames I. ,
Lord Chamberlain, and Lord High Admiral of Scotland. Huge figures of Faith,
Hope, Prudence, and Charity support the canopy. The monument was erected
by the Duke's widow, who is buried here with all his family. Here also rest the
natural son of Charles II. and the Duchess of Portsmouth, who was created
Duke of Richmond on the extinction of the former family, and his widow, with
many others of his house, including the widow of the sixth and last Duke, ' La
belle Stuart,' whose effigy, by her own request, was placed by her tomb after
death 'as well done in wax as could be, under crown glass and none other,'
wearing the robes which she wore at the coronation of Queen Anne, and accom-
panied by the parrot 1 which lived with her Grace forty years, and survived her
only a few days.' The black marble pyramid at the foot of the tomb commemo-
rates the infant Esme, Duke of Richmond.

1 One curious feature in the tomb deserves notice. In the inscription the date
of the year of the Duke's death is apparently omitted, though the month and
day are mentioned. The year, however, is given in what is called a chronogram.
The Latin translation of the verse in the Bible, "Know ye not that a prince and
a great man has this day fallen ?' (the words uttered by David in his lament over
Abner), contains fourteen Roman numeral letters, and these being elongated
into capitals are MDCVVVIIIIIIII, which give the date 1623. It is remarkable
that words so appropriate to this nobleman should contain the date for this
identical year, and it shows much ingenuity on the part of the writer of the in-
scription that he should have discovered it.'— The Builder, June 19, 1S75.

We now come to the first of the three eastern chapels. On the
left is the tomb, by Westmacott, of Antoine, Due de Montpensier,
brother of Louis Philippe, who died in exile, at Salthill, 1807. The
inscription is by General Dumouriez. This is the only monument
placed in the Abbey for two centuries which is in accordance with
the taste in which it was built. In the same vault with t he Duke
lay for some time Louise of Savoy, queen of Louis XVIII., who
died in exile at Hartwell in Buckinghamshire. Her remains were
removed to Sardinia in 1811.

In the centre of the chapel is the grave of Lady Augusta Stanley! (1876),
daughter of the seventh Earl of Elgin, 1 for thirty years the devoted servant of Queen

1 With the exception of Lady Palmerston, the only woman buried in the Abbey
since very early in the XIX. c.

Westminster

Victoria, and of the Queen's mother and children.' In the same grave, in the
presence of a vast and sorrowing multitude, on July 25, 1881, was laid her hus-
band, Arthur Penrhyn Stanley, for eighteen years, as Dean of Westminster, the
loving and devoted guardian of the Abbey, of which he was the historian. His
(far too tall) effigy is by Boehm, with the appropriate inscription, ' I know that
all things come to an end, but thy commandments are exceeding broad.' The
commemorative window above represents in the upper part the history of the
Bruce family, and, in the lower, Lady Augusta Stanley in the six works of mercy.

1 And, truly, he who here

Hath run his bright career,
And served men nobly, and acceptance found,

And borne to light and sight his witness high,

What can he better crave than then to die,
And wait the issue, sleeping underground ?

Why should he pray to range
Down the long age of truth that ripens slow,

And break his heart with all the baffling change,
And all the tedious tossing to and fro ? '

Matthew Arnold.

1 As far as I understood what the duties of my office were supposed to be, in
spite of every incompetence, I am yet humbly trustful that I have sustained
before the mind of the nation the extraordinary value of the Abbey as a religious,
national, and liberal institution.' — Dean Stanley's Last Words.

The Central Eastern Chapel was the burial-place of the magnates
of the Commonwealth, who, with few exceptions, were exhumed
after the Eestoration. The bodies of Cromwell, his son-in-law
Ireton, and Bradshaw, the regicide judge, were hanged at Tyburn ;
the mother of Cromwell, with most of her kindred and friends,
was buried in a pit near St. Margaret's Church ; Elizabeth Claypole,
the favourite daughter of the Protector, was left in peace. Here
were once buried —

Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector, 1658.
General Henry Ireton, 1651.

Elizabeth Cromwell, mother of the Protector, 1654.

Jane Desborough, sister of the Protector, 1656.

Anne Fleetwood, grand-daughter of the Protector.

Richard Deane, 1653.

Humphrey Mackworth, 1654.

Sir William Constable, 1655.

Admiral Robert Blake, 1657.

Dennis Bond, 1658.

John Bradshaw, 1659.

Mary Bradshaw, 1659.

The vault vacated when the rebels were exhumed in 1661, was
afterwards used as the burial-place of James Butler, the great Duke
of Ormonde (1688), and all his family. Here also were interred
many of the illegitimate descendants of Charles II., including —

The Earl of Doncaster, son of the Duke of Monmouth, 1674.
Charles Fitzroy, Duke of Cleveland, 1730.

Charles Fitz Charles, Earl of Plymouth, who died at Tangiers, 1681.
Here also the Earl of Portland, the friend of William III., was buried (1709),
with the Duke of Schomberg and several of his family.

In the Third Chapel lie—

(Right.) Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham (1721), and his Duchess Catherine (1743),
who was so proud of being the illegitimate daughter of J ames IT. and Catherine

Chapel of Henry VII.

Sedley, and who kept the anniversary of the martyrdom of her royal grandfather
Charles I. seated in a chair of state, attended by her women in weeds. * The
monument is by Scheemakers, who has represented the Duchess in English dress,
while the Duke is in Roman armour. In the reign of Charles II. he was general of
the Dutch troop of horse, Governor of the Castle of Kingston upon Hull, and First
Gentleman of the Bedchamber ; in that of James II., Lord Chamberlain ; in that
of Queen Anne, Lord Privy Seal and President of the Council. The concluding
lines of his self-composed epitaph are striking— ' Dubius sed non improbus vixi ;
incertus morior, non perturbatus. Humanum est nescire et errare. Deo confido
omnipotent!, benevolentissimo. Ens entium miserere mei.' Before the words
'Deo confido,' 'Christum adveneror' was originally inserted, but was effaced by
Dean Atterbury, on the ground that 1 adveneror' was not a sufficient expression
as applied to Christ.

Opposite is preserved the wooden Pulpit from which it is said Cranmer preached
at the coronation and funeral of his royal godson, Edward VI.

Beneath it, alone, in a spacious vault, lies the body of Queen Anne of Denmark
(1619), wife of James I., who died at Somerset House. She never had any
monument, but her hearse stood over her grave till the Commonwealth.

Hard by is the grave of John Campbell, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich (1743),
whose monument we have seen in the south transept. With him lies his dan-])
ter, Lady Mary Coke (1811), * the " lively little lady " who, in the " Heart of -Mid-
lothian," banters her father after the interview with Jeanie Deans.' 2

But this chapel is chiefly interesting because here, in entire conformity with
the best traditions of the Abbey, it was intended to place a be autiful monument
to the gallant and unfortunate Louis Napoleon, Prince Imperial of France, who
fell fighting in the cause of England, June 1, 1879. The erection of this monu-
ment was prevented by the illiberal clamour of an ignorant faction.

The next Chapel, with a low screen, has its western decorations
ruined by the interesting tomb of —

George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham (1G28), the passionately loved favourite of
James I., murdered by Felton, and his Duchess. His children kneel at his head.
Several of his sons, including Francis and George, whose handsome features are
well known from Van Dyck's noble picture, rest in their father's grave, together
with the last Duke, the George Villiers who was the 'Zimri' of Dryden, and
whose deathbed is described in the lines of Pope.

'Had the Duke of Buckingham been blessed with a faithful friend, qualified
with wisdom and integrity, the Duke would have committed as few faults and
done as transcendent worthy actions as any man in that age in Europe.' —
Clarendon.

'After Buckingham's death, Charles the First cherished his memory warmly
as his life, advanced his friends, and designed to raise a. magnificent monument
to his memory; and if any one accused the Duke, the king always imputed the
fault to himself. Charles often said the world was much mistaken in the Duke's
character : for it was commonly thought the Duke ruled his majesty ; but it was
much the contrary, having been his most faithful and obedient servant in all
things, as the king said he would make sensibly appear to the world.' — Disraeli,
' Curiosities of Literature.'

Near the next pillar is the grave of Elizabeth Clay-pole (1658),
second daughter of Oliver Cromwell, the only member of the Pro-
tector's family allowed to remain in the Abbey, as being both a
royalist and a member of the Church of England. In descend-
ing the chapel on this side we pass the graves of —

Frederick, Prince of Wales, father of George III., 1751.
Augusta of Saxe-Gotha, Princess of Wales, 1772.

Elizabeth Caroline (1759) and Frederick William (1765), children of the Prince
of Wales.

William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, third son of George II. (17G5), of
Culloden celebrity.

1 Walpole's Reminiscences.

2 Stanley.

Westminster

To these, as to the fourteen persons (including Oliver Cromwell)
who have ruled England since the time of Elizabeth, no monument
has been erected.

Entering the South Aisle of the Chapel, we find, beneath the exqui-
site fan roof, three noble tombs : —

* Margaret Stuart, Countess of Lennox (1578), first cousin of Queen Elizabeth,
being daughter of the Scottisli queen, Margaret Tudor, by her second marriage
with the Earl of Angus. Lord Thomas Howard was imprisoned for life for
venturing to fall in love with her at the court of Anne Boleyn, and she was mar-
ried, in her thirtieth year, to the Earl6f Lennox. The epitaph tells how she
'had to her great-grandfather, King Edward IV.; to her grandfather, King
Henry VII. ; to her uncle, King Henry VIII. ; to her cousin-german, King
Edward VI. ; to her brother, King James V. of Scotland ; to her son (Darnley),
King Henry I. of Scotland; to her grandchild, King James VI. (of Scotland,
and I. of England).' The tomb is of alabaster. It bears the effigy of Margaret
in robes of state, with a small ruff and a close coif with a coronet over it. Below
are the effigies of her four sons and four daughters (including that of Henry
Darnley, King of Scotland, which once had a crown above its head, and that of
Charles Lennox, father of the ' Ladie Arbele ' (Arabella Stuart). The Countess
of Lennox died in poverty, but was buried here in great state by Elizabeth. An
iron railing, decorated with all the armorial bearings of the family, once sur-
rounded this monument.

*Mary Stuart, Queen of Scots, 1587. After her execution at Fotheringay she
was buried in Peterborough Cathedral, but was brought thence in 1613 by her
son, James I., who desired that 'like honour might be done to the body of his
dearest mother, and the like monument be extant of her, that had been done to
his dear sister, the late Queen Elizabeth.' In her second funeral she had ' a
translucent passage in the night through the city of London, by multitudes of
torches, with all the ceremonies that voices, quires and copes could express,
attended by many prelates and nobles.' * The tomb is a noble work of the period,
with an effigy by Cornelius Cure. The queen is represented as in her pictures,
with small and delicate features. She wears a close coif, a laced ruff, a mantle
fastened at the breast by a jewelled brooch, and high-heeled shoes ; at her feet
the crowned lion of Scotland sits keeping guard.

'She shall be a world's wonder to all time,
A deadly glory watched of marvelling men,
Not without praise, not without noble tears,
And if without what she would never have
Who had it never, pity — yet from none
Quite without reverence and some kind of love
For that which was so royal.' — Sivinburne.

1 In the tomb-statues of the two queens, Elizabeth and Mary Stuart, what
grand character is displayed in the head ! what expression in the fine, noble
hands ! It is no wonder that before the thrilling effect of these monumental
poems, other arts were mute or modestly retired into the background.' — Liibke.

^Margaret Beaufort, Countess of Richmond and Derby, the great-grand-
daughter of John of Gaunt, ' allied by blood or affinity to thirty kings and
queens,' and through whom Henry VII. derived all the hereditary claims he
possessed to the throne. Great-great-granddaughter of Edward III., she was,
by her first husband, Edmund Tudor, Earl of Richmond, son of Queen Katherine
de Valois (whom, rather than the Duke of Suffolk, she espoused by the advice
— in a vision— of St. Nicholas, patron of wavering maidens), the mother of
Henry VII. She married secondly Sir Humphrey Stafford ; and thirdly Thomas,
Lord Stanley, who placed the crown of Richard III. on the head of her son after
the battle of Bos worth Field, and was created Earl of Derby by him. She died

i Wilson's Hist, of the Reign of James I.

Chapel of Henry VII.

in Barking Abbey, 1509, at the time of the coronation of her grandson, Henry
VIII. She was the foundress of St. John's and Christ's Colleges at Cambridge.
Bishop Fisher (her chaplain), who preached her funeral sermon, told truly how
' every one that knew her loved her, and everything that she said or did
became her.' She was so imbued with the spirit of mediaeval times, that
Camden records she would often say that 'on the condition that the princes
of Christendom would combine and march against the common enemy, the
Turk, she would willingly attend them, and be their laundress in the camp.'
Her effigy, the first work executed by the great Pietro Torrigiano in England,
is nobly simple, but 'executed in a grand and expressive naturalistic manner.' 1
Her aged features are evidently modelled from nature. Her hands are uplifted
in prayer, and ' no such wonderful hands have ever been modelled as that lean,
old, wrinkled, withered pair.'^ The ascetic features and withered hands are
seen in the portrait of the Countess at St. John's College, Cambridge. Her
epitaph, by John Skelton, the poet-laureate, ends with a quaint curse upon all
who shall spoil or take it away —

' Qui lacerat, violatvc, rapit, praesens epitoma,
Hunc laceretque voret, Cerberus, absque mora.'

(On the left.) Catherine Shorter, Lady Walpole (1737), the first wife of Sir
Robert, afterwards Earl of Orford. The figure is by Valori, after the famous
statue of 'Pudicitia' at Rome, and is beautiful, though injured by the too
voluminous folds of its drapery. It was erected by her son, Horace Walpole.
' She had beauty and wit without vice or vanity, and cultivated the arts without
affectation. She was devout, though without bigotry of any sect, and was with-
out prejudice to any party ; tho' the wife of a minister, whose power she esteemed
but when she could employ it to benefit the miserable or reward the meritorious.
She loved a private life, though born to shine in public, and was an ornament to
courts, untainted by them.' «*

(Left.) General George Monk, Duke of Albemarle, 1670, the hero of the Restora-
tion, whose funeral in the north aisle, where he rests with Anne Clarges his
wife, was personally attended by Charles II. The monument, by Schecinakcrs
and Kent, was erected, as the epitaph states, in compliance with the wish of
Christopher, Duke of Albemarle, in 1720. The figure of General Monk is repre-
sented in armour, without a helmet ; a mourning female figure leans upon the
medallion of Duke Christopher.

In front of the step of the ancient altar are buried without
monuments —

King Charles II. (1685), buried ' without any manner of pomp, and soon for-
gotten.''* His waxen image stood on the grave as late as 1815.
Queen Mary II. , 1694.
King William III., 1702.
Prince George of Denmark, 1708.
Queen Anne, 1714.

Thoresby, the antiquary, was present when the vault was opened
to receive the remains of Queen Anne.

'It was affecting to see the silent relics of the great monarchs, Charles II.,
William and Mary, and Prince George; next whom remains only one space to
be filled with her late Majesty Queen Anne. This sight was the more affecting
to me, because, when young, I saw in one balcony six of them that were after-
wards kings and queens of Great Britain, all brisk and hearty, but now entered
on a boundless eternity ! There were then present King Charles and his Queen

1 Liibke.

2 Loftie.

3 Epitaph by Horace Walpole.

4 Evelyn's Diary. He was probably thus quietly buried to evade disputes as to
the religion in which he died.

Westminster

Catherine, the Duke of York, the Prince and Princess of Orange, and the Princess
Anne. ' — Thoresby's Diary.

Beneath the pavement in other parts of the chapel are buried
the following members of the Stuart royal family : —
Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales (1612), son of James I.

' A monument all of pure gold were too little for a prince of such high hope
and merit.' — Stow.

'The short life of Henry was passed in a school of prowess, and amidst an
academy of literature.' — Disraeli.
Arabella Stuart (1615), niece of James I.

Charles, eldest son of Charles I. (1629), and Anne (1637), the fat baby in the
famous picture of the children of Charles I.

' She was a very pregnant lady above her age, and died in her infancy when
not full four years old. Being minded by those about her to call upon God even
when the pangs of death were upon her, "I am not able," saith she, " to say my
long prayer [meaning the Lord's Prayer] ; but I will say my short one : Lighten
mine eyes, O Lord, lest I sleep the sleep of death." This done, this little lamb
gave up the ghost. '—Fuller's Worthies.

Henry, Duke of Gloucester (1660), son of Charles I., the boy who on his father's
knees at St. James's, the night before his execution, said that he would be torn
in pieces rather than be made king while his brothers were alive. He died of
the small-pox at Whitehall.

Mary, Princess of Orange (1660), eldest daughter of Charles I.

'She came over to congratulate the happiness of her brother's miraculous
restitution ; when, behold, sickness arrests this royal princess, no bail being
found by physick to defer the execution of her death. On the 31st of December
following she was honourably (though privately) interred at Westminster, and
no eye so dry but willingly afforded a tear to bemoan the loss of so worthy a
princess.' — Fuller's Worthies.

Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia (1662), daughter of James I.

1662. Jan. 17. ' This night was buried in Westminster Abby the Queene of
Bohemia, after all her sorrows and afflictions, being come to die in the arms of
her nephew the King.' — Evelyn's Diary.

Prince Rupert (1682), son of the Queen of Bohemia. 'The Prince' of the
Cavaliers, ' who, after innumerable toils and variety of heroic actions both by
land and sea, spent several years in sedate studies and the prosecution of
chemical and philosophical experiments.' He died in his sixty-third year, at his
house in Spring Gardens, and was honoured with a very magnificent public
funeral.

Anne Hyde, daughter of Edward, Earl of Clarendon, married in 1660 to the
Duke of York, afterwards James II., and ten of her children. She died in 1671,
leaving two of her children living, Mary II. and Anne.

William., Duke of Gloucester, the precocious and last surviving child of Princess
(afterwards Queen) Anne, who died at Windsor in 1700 just after his eleventh
birthday, and seventeen other of the children of the queen, whom the poet
Chapman aptly describes as * the sacred fountain of princes.'

We may now turn to the North Aisle. At its western extremity
is an enclosure used as a vestry for the chanting priests, who were
to say the ten thousand masses enjoined by the will of Henry VII.
for the repose of his soul. Here was formerly kept ' the effigies of
General Monk.' The monuments include —

(Right.) Charles Montagu, Earl of Halifax (1715), the great patron of the
literary men of his time, 'the second great Maecenas.' i

i Dr. Sewell to Addison. British Poets.

Chapel of Henry VII.

In the vault of his patron rests Joseph Addison, 1719 (his monument is in
the south transept). The funeral of Addison gave rise to the noble lines of
Tickell—

' Can I forget the dismal night that gave
My soul's best part for ever to the grave ?
How silent did his old companions tread,
By midnight lamps, the mansions of the dead.
Through breathing statues, then unheeded things,
Through rows of warriors and through walks of kings !
What awe did the slow, solemn knell inspire ;
The pealing organ and the pausing choir ;
The duties by the lawn-robed prelate pay'd ;
And the last words, that dust to dust convey'd !
While speechless o'er thy closing grave we bend,
Accept these tears, thou dear departed friend.
Oh, gone for ever ! take this long adieu,
And sleep in peace next thy loved Montagu.

Ne'er to these chambers, where the mighty rest,
Since their foundation came a nobler guest ;
Nor e'er was to the bower of bliss convey'd
A fairer spirit or more welcome shade. ' 1

' His body lay in state in the Jerusalem Chamber, and was borne thence to the
Abbey at dead of night. The choir sang a funeral hymn. Bishop Atterbury,
one of those Tories a\ ho had loved and honoured the most accomplished of the
Whigs, met the corpse, and led the procession by torchlight, round the shrine of
St. Edward and the graves of the Plantagenets, to the Chapel of Henry the
Seventh. On the north side of that chapel, in the vault of the house of Albe-
marle, the coffin of Addison lies next to the coffin of Montagu. Yet a few
months, and the same mourners passed again along the same aisle. The same
sad anthem was again chanted. The same vault was again opened; and the
coffin of Craggs was placed close to the coffin of Addison.' — Macaulay.

James Craggs, the Secretary of State, who has a monument at the west end
of the Abbey, was present at Addison's funeral, and was shortly after, in March
1720-1, buried in the same grave.

1 0 ! must I then (now fresh my bosom bleeds,
And Craggs in death to Addison succeeds)
The verse, begun to one lost friend, prolong,
And weep a second in th' unfinish'd song ?

Blest pair, whose union future bards shall tell
In future tongues, each other's boast, farewell !
Farewell ! whom, join'd in fame, in friendship try'd,
No chance could sever, nor the grave divide.' 2

(Right.) George Savile, Marquis of Halifax (1695), the statesman.

' He was a man of a very great and ready wit ; full of life, and very pleasant ;
much turned to satire. ... He confessed he could not swallow down everything
that divines imposed on the world : he was a Christian in submission : he believed
as much as he could, and he hoped that God would not lay it to his charge if he
could not digest iron, as an ostrich did, or take into his belief things that must
burst him. . . . But with relation to the public, he went backwards and for-
wards, and changed sides so often, that in conclusion no one trusted him. . . .
When he talked to me as a philosopher of his contempt of the world, I asked
him what he meant by getting so many new titles, which I called the hanging
himself about with bells and tinsel. He had no other excuse for it but this, that
since the world were such fools as to value those matters, a man must be a fool
for company.' — Burnet, 'Hist, of his Own Time.'

1 Epistle to the Earl of Warwick.
2 Tickell.

Westminster

In the centre of the aisle is the noble tomb of—

*Queen Elizabeth (1603), who died at Richmond in the forty-fifth year of her
reign, and the seventieth of her age. The monument is by Maximilian Pow-
train and John de Critz. Beneath a lofty canopy supported by ten Corinthian
pillars, the figure of the queen, who was ' one day greater than man, the next
less than woman,' is lying upon the low basement on a slab supported by lions.
The effigy, which has a strong family likeness to that of Mary, represents her as
an aged woman, wearing a close coif, from which the hair descends in curls : the
crown has been stolen. The tomb was once surrounded by a richly wrought
railing covered with fleurs-de-lis and roses, with the initials E.R. interspersed.
This, with all the small standards and armorial bearings at the angles, forming
as much a part of the monument itself as the stonework, was most unjustifiably
removed in 1822 by Dean Ireland, i

' Thys queene's speech did winne all affections, and hir subjects did trye to
shew all love to hir commandes; for she would say, "hir state did require hir
to commande, what she knew hir people woude willingly do from their owne
love to hir." Herein she did shewe her wisdome fullie ; for who did chuse to
lose her confidence : or who woude wytholde a shewe of love and obedience,
when their Sovereign said it was their own choice, and not hir compulsion ? . . .
We did all love hir, for she said she loved us, and muche wysdome she shewed
in thys matter. She did well temper herself towards all at home, and put at
variance all abroad ; by which means she had more quiet than hir neighbours.
. . . When she smiled, it was a pure sunshine, that everyone did chuse to baske
in, if they could ; but anon came a storm from a sudden gathering of clouds, and
the thunder fell in wondrous manner on all alike. I never did fyncle greater
shew of understandinge and learninge, than she was blest wythe, and whoever
liveth longer than I can, will look backe and become laudator temporis acti.' —
Sir John Harington's Letter to Robert Markham in 1606, three years after the
death of Elizabeth.

In the same tomb is buried Mary I. (1558). Her obsequies, conducted by
Bishop Gardiner, were the last funeral service celebrated in the Abbey according
to the Roman Catholic ritual, except the requiem ordered by Elizabeth for
Charles V. The stones of the altars in Henry VII. 's Chapel destroyed at the
Reformation were used in her vault. At her funeral ' all the people plucked
down the hangings and the armorial bearings round about the Abbey, and every
one tore him a piece as large as he could catch it.' James I. wrote the striking
inscription upon the monument — 'Regno consortes et urna, hie obdormimus
Elizabetha et Maria sorores, in spe resurrectionis.' ' In those words,' says Dean
Stanley, * the long war of the English Reformation is closed. 1

*The eastern end of this aisle has been called the Innocents' Corner. In its
centre is the tomb erected in 1674 by Charles II. over the bones found at the
foot of the staircase in the Tower, supposed to be those of the murdered boys,
Edward V. and Richard, Duke of York.

*On the left is the monument of Princess Mary, third daughter of James I.
(1607), who died at two years old, about whom her Protestant father was wont
to say that he 'would not pray to the Virgin Mary, but for the Virgin Mary.'
Her epitaph tells how she, 'received into heaven in early infancy,' found joy for
herself, but ' left longings ' to her parents.

' Such was the manner of her death, as bred a kind of admiration in us all
that were present to behold it. For whereas the new-tuned organs of speech,
by reason of her great and wearisome sickness, had been so greatly weakened,
that for the space of twelve or fourteen hours at least, there was no sound of
any word breaking from her lips ; yet when it sensibly appeared that she would
soon make a peaceable end of a troublesome life, she sighed out these words,

1 The almost adoration with which Elizabeth was regarded after her death
caused her so-called ' monument,' with a metrical epitaph, curiously varied, to
be set up in all the principal London churches ; notably so in St. Saviour's,
Southwark ; St. Mary Woolnoth ; St. Lawrence Jewry ; St. Mildred, Poultry ;
and St. Andrew Undershaft. Several of these ' monuments ' still exist.

2 Fuller's Worthies.

Chapel of Henry VII.

"I go, I go ; " and when, not long after, there was something to be ministered
unto her by those that attended her in the time of her sickness, fastening her
eye upon them with a constant look, she repeated, " Away, I go ! " And yet a
third time, almost immediately before she offered herself, a sweet virgin sacrifice,
unto Him that made her, faintly cried, 44 1 go, I go." . . . And whereas she had
used many other words in the time of her extremity, yet now, at the last, she
did aptly utter these, and none but these.'— Funeral Sermon for the Princess
Mary, by J. Leech, preached in Henry VII.' s Chapel, Sept. 23, 1607.

4 Where Loves no more, but marble Angels moan,
And little cherubs seem to sob in stone.'

John Dart.

*On the right is Princess Sophia (1606), fourth daughter of James I. , the first
Sophia of English history, who died at Greenwich three days after her birth.
It is a charming little monument of an infant in her cradle — ' a royal rose-bud,
plucked by premature fate, and snatched away from her parents, that she might
flourish again in the rosary of Christ.'

4 This royal babe is represented sleeping in her cradle, wherewith vulgar eyes,
especially of the weaker sex, are more affected (as level to their cognisance, more
capable of what is pretty than what is pompous) than with all the magnificent
monuments in Westminster.' — Fuller's Worthies.

4 A little rudely sculptured bed,

With shadowing folds of marble lace,
And quilt of marble, primly spread
And folded round a baby's face.

Smoothly the mimic coverlet,

With royal blazonries bedight,
Hangs, as by tender fingers set,

And straightened for the last good-night.

And traced upon the pillowing stone

A dent is seen, as if, to bless
That quiet sleep, some grieving one

Had leaned, and left a soft impress.'
From the lines by Susan Coolidge, suspended above the tomb.

At the foot of the steps leading to Henry VII.'s Chapel Edivard
Hyde, Earl of Clarendon (1674), grandfather of Queen Mary II. and
Queen Anne, who died in exile at Rouen, having been impeached
for high treason, is buried, with his wife Frances, her mother Lady
Aylesbury, and other members of his family. We must look back
from the northern ambulatory upon the richly sculptured arch of
Henry V.'s chantry. It is this arch which was so greatly admired
by Flaxman. The coronation of Henry V. is here represented as
it was performed in this church by Thomas Arundel, Archbishop
of Canterbury, and Henry Beaufort, the uncle of the king. Over
the canopies which surmount the figures are the alternate badges
of the antelope and swan (from the king's mother, co-heiress of
the Bohuns), and on the cornices the same animals appear chained
to a tree, on which is a flaming cresset, a badge which was borne
by Henry V. alone, and which was intended as typical of the light
by which he hoped to 4 guide his people to follow him in all honour
and virtue.' 1

On the left are the beautiful tombs of Queen Eleanor and of
Henry III., and beyond these the simple altar-tomb of Edward I.
On the right are the tombs of —

i See Brooke, in Gough's Sepulchral Monuments, cut xv.

38 Westminster

William Pulteney, Earl of Bath (1764), by Wilton.
Admiral Holmes, 1761.

Entering the Chapel of St. Paul, we see before us the noble
altar-tomb of —

*Sir Giles Daubeny (1507), and his wife Elizabeth. He was Lord Lieutenant of
Calais and Chamberlain to Henry VII. His effigy, which is executed with the

CHANTRY OF HENRY V.

minutest care, is in plate armour, with the insignia of the Order of the Garter.
Observe the kneeling and weeping monks in relief on the soles of his shoes.

Near this is the stupid colossus, whose introduction here is the
most crying evidence of the want of taste in our generation : a
monument wholly unsuiteel in its character to the place and in
its association with its surroundings— which, on its introduction,

Chapel of St. Paul

burst through the pavement by its immense weight, laid bare the
honoured coffins beneath, and fell into the vaults below, but un-
fortunately was not broken to pieces.

James Watt (1819), ( M r ho directing the force of an original genius early exer-
cised in philosophic research to the improvement of the steam-engine, enlarged
the resources of his country and increased the power of man, and rose to an
eminent place among the most illustrious followers of science and the real bene-
r'actors of the world.' The inscription is by Lord Brougham, the statue by
Chantrey.

Making the circuit of the chapel from the right, we see the
monuments of —

*Lodowick Robsart (1431), and his wife Elizabeth, heiress of Bartholomew
Bourchier, after his marriage with whom he was created Lord Bourchier. He
was distinguished in the French wars under Henry V., and made the king's
standard-bearer for the courage which he displayed upon the field of Agincourt,
of which the banners on the tomb are a reminder. On the marriage of Henry V.
to Katherine de Valois he was immediately presented to the queen, and ap-
pointed the especial guardian of her person. His tomb, which forms part of
the screen of the chapel, is, architecturally, one of the most interesting in the
Abbey. It has an open roof in the form called ' en dos d'dne,' and the whole
was once richly gilt and coloured, the rest of the screen being powdered with
gold Katherine-wheels.

Anne, Lady Cottington (1633), a bust by Hubert le Soeur, of great sim-
plicity and beauty. Beneath is the reclining effigy of Francis, Lord Cottington
(1652), ambassador for Charles I. in Spain, who ' for his faithfull adherence to
ye crowne (ye usyrpers prevayling) was forc't to fly his country, and, during his
exile, dyed at Valladolid.' Clarendon describes him —

' A very wise man, by the great and long experience he had in business of all
kinds ; and by his natural temper, which was not liable to any transport of
anger, or any other passion, but could bear contradiction, and even reproach,
without being moved, or put out of his way : for he was very steady in pursuing
what he proposed to himself, and had a courage not to be frighted with any
opposition. ... He was of an excellent humour, and very easy to live with ;
and, under a grave countenance, covered the most of mirth, and caused more,
than any man of the most pleasant disposition. He never used anybody ill, but
used many very well for whom he had no regard : his greatest fault was, that he
could dissemble, and make men believe that he loved them very well, when he
cared not for them. He had not very tender affections, nor bowels apt to yearn
at all objects which deserved compassion : he was heartily weary of the world,
and no man was more willing to die ; which is an argument that he had peace of
conscience. He left behind him a greater esteem of his parts than love to his
person.'

Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex (aunt of Sir Philip), 1589. She was the
foundress of Sidney-Sussex College at Cambridge. Her recumbent statue affords
a fine specimen of the rich costume of the period : at her feet is her crest, a
porcupine, in wood.

Dudley Carleton, Viscount Dorchester (1632), Secretary of State under Charles
I.i This tomb was executed by Nicholas Stone for £200.

Sir Thomas Bromley (1587), who succeeded Sir Nicholas Bacon as Lord Chan-
cellor in the reign of Elizabeth, and presided at the trial of Mary, Queen of
Scots. The alabaster statue represents the Chancellor in his robes : the official
purse appears at the back : his children, by Lady Elizabeth Fortescue, kneel at
an altar beneath.

i There are fine portraits of Dudley Carleton and his wife, by Cornelius Jansen,
in the National Portrait Gallery.

Westminster

Sir James Fullerton (1631), and Mary his wife. He was First Gentleman of
the Bedchamber to Charles I. ' He dyed fuller of faith than of feare, fuller of
resoluc'on than of paiennes ; fuller of honvr than of dayes.'

Near the foot of this monument Archbishop Usher was buried in state, March
1656, at the cost of Oliver Cromwell. He died at Reigate. His chaplain, Nicholas
Barnard, preached his funeral sermon in the Abbey on the text, ' And Samuel
died, and all the Israelites were gathered together.'

Sir John Puckering (1596), who prosecuted Mary, Queen of Scots, and became
Keeper of the Great Seal under Elizabeth. The monument was erected by his
widow, who added her own statue ; their eight children kneel below.

SHRINE OF ST. ERASMUS.

Sir Henry Belasyse of Brancepeth (1717), 'lineally descended from Belasins,
one of the Norman generals who came into England with William the Conqueror
and was knighted by him.' The monument is by Scheemakers.

Sir Roivland Hill (1879), the originator of penny postage. A bust by W. D.
Keyivorth—a most terrible eyesore needlessly and ruthlessly engrafted upon the
Beiasyse tomb.

The entrance to the next chapel, or, more properly, the Shrine
of St. Erasmus, is one of the most picturesque • bits ' in the Abbey,

Chapel of St. John Baptist

dating from the time of Richard II., perfect alike in design, form,
and colour. It is a low arch supported by clustered pillars. The
shield on the right bears the old arms of France and England
quarterly, viz. semee of fleurs-de-lis and three lions passant gardant,
and that on the left the arms of Edward the Confessor. Above is
* Sanctus Erasmus ' in black (once golden) letters, and over this an
exquisitely sculptured niche with a moulding of vine-leaves. The
iron stanchion which held a lamp still remains by the entrance, and
within are a holy-water basin and a bracket for the statue of St.
Erasmus (a bishop of Campania martyred under Diocletian), with
the rays which once surrounded the head of the figure still remain-
ing on the wall. Near the entrance is the little monument of Jane,
wife of Sir Clippcsly Crewe (1639), with a curious relief representing
her death.

Through this shrine we enter the Chapel of St. John Baptist, of
which the screen is formed by tombs of bishops and abbots. In
the centre is the tomb of —

Thomas Ceoil, Earl of Exeter (1622), eldest son of Lord Burghley and his first
wife, Dorothy Nevill. The vacant space on the Earl's left side was intended for
his second wife, Frances Brydges, but she indignantly refused to allow her effigy
to lie on the left side. This lady lived till 1663, and was buried in Winchester
Cathedral, though the inscription states that she lies here.

Making the circuit of the chapel from the right, we see the
monuments of —

Mrs. M ary Kendall (1710), who 'desired that her ashes might not be divided
in death from those of her friend Lady Catherine Jones. ' 1

George Fascet, Abbot of Westminster (1500), an altar-tomb with a stone canopy.
On it rests the stone coffin of Abbot Thomas 31 illy ng (1492), godfather of Edward
V., who was made Bishop of Hereford by Edward IV. in reward for the services
he had rendered to Elizabeth Woodville when she was in sanctuary at West-
minster. His coffin was probably removed from the centre of the chapel when
the tomb of the Earl of Exeter was placed there.

Thomas Ruthall, Bishop of Durham (1523), who died at Durham Place in the
Strand, from grief at having sent the inventory of all his great riches to Henry
VIII. in mistake for the ' Breviate of the State of the Land,' which he had been
commissioned to draw up. He had been Secretary to Henry VII. , and had made a
good use of his immense wealth, having paid a third of the expense of building
the great bridge of Newcastle-on-Tyne. The tomb once had a canopy.

Abbot William of Colchester (1420) is said to have plotted in a secret chamber
with the Earls and Dukes imprisoned in the Abbot's house by Henry IV. in
favour of the dethroned monarch, and swore to be faithful to death to King
Richard. 2 The effigy is robed in rich vestments : there are two angels at the
pillow, and a spaniel lies at the feet.

(On the site of the altar.) Henry Carey, Lord Tlunsdon (1596), the first cousin 3
and most faithful friend and chamberlain of Queen Elizabeth. He is said to
have died of disappointment at the long delay in his elevation. The queen
visited him on his death-bed, and commanded the robes and patent of an Earl
to be placed before him. 'It is too late,' he said, and declined the offered
dignity. The corinthian tomb of alabaster and marble, erected by his son, is
one of the loftiest in England (36 feet).

1 The charitable daughter of the Earl of Ranelagh, who built a school at Chelsea
for the education of the daughters of the poor Chelsea Pensioners.

2 See Shakspeare's Richard II.

3 Being son of Mary Boleyn, who, without her father's consent, married
William Carey, a penniless but nobly born squire.

Westminster

Thomas Carey (1649), a descendant of Hunsdon, second son of Henry Carey,
Earl of Monmouth, a Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles I., who died
of grief for the execution of his master, to whom the mention on this monu-
ment is the only memorial in Westminster. By this monument may be seen
remains of the ancient lockers for the sacred vestments and plate.

*(Beneath.) Hugh and Mary Bohun, children of Humphrey Bohun, Earl of
Hereford, and the Princess Isabella, fourth daughter of Edward I. A grey marble
monument close to the wall, removed by Richard II. from the Chapel of the
Confessor to make room for Anne of Bohemia.

Colonel Edward Popham (1651), * distinguished by land and sea,' and Anne his
wife. As he was a general in the Parliamentary army, his body was removed
at the Restoration, but, owing to the entreaty of his wife's family, the monument
was allowed to remain, on condition of the inscription being turned to the wall.

Sir Thomas Vaughan (1483), Treasurer to Edward IV. The tomb has a beautiful
but mutilated brass. Under the canopy is preserved a fragment of the canopy
of Bishop Ruthall's tomb.

The banners which still wave in this chapel are those carried at the funerals
of those members of the ancient Northumbrian family of Delaval who are buried
beneath — Susannah, Lady Delaval, 1783 ; Sarah Hussey, Countess of Tyrconnel,
1800 ; John Hussey, Lord Delaval, 1806.

Opposite the Chapel of St. John is the staircase by which visitors
usually ascend to the centre of interest in the Abbey — one may say
in England — the Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor.

' Mortality, behold, and feare,
"What a change of flesh is here !
Think how many royall bones
Sleep within this heap of stones ;
Here they lye, had realmes and lands,
Who now want strength to stir their hands ;
Where, from their pulpits seal'd with dust,
They preach, " In greatnesse is no trust."
Here's an acre sown indeed
With the richest, royali st seed,
That the earth did ere suck in,
Since the first man died for sin :
Here the bones of birth have cry'd,
" Though gods they were, as men they dy'd : "
Here are sands, ignoble things
Dropt from the ruin'd sides of kings.

Here's a world of pomp and state

Buried in dust, once dead by fate.'

Francis Beaumont, 1584-1616.

' A man may read a sermon, the best and most passionate that ever man
preached, if he shall but enter into the sepulchres of kings. . . . Where our
kings have been crowned, their ancestors lie interred, and they must walk over
their grandsire's head to take his crown. There is an acre sown with royal seed,*
the copy of the greatest change, from rich to naked, from ceiled roofs to arched
coffins, from living like gods to die like men. There is enough to cool the flames
of lust, to abate the heights of pride, to appease the itch of covetous desires, to
sully and dash out the dissembling colours of a lustful, artificial, and imaginary
beauty. There the warlike and the peaceful, the fortunate and the miserable,
the beloved and the despised princes mingle their dust, and pay down their
symbol of mortality, and tell all the world that, when we die, our ashes shall
be equal to kings', and our accounts easier, and our pains or our crowns shall
be less.'— Jeremy Taylor's ' Holy Dying,' ch. i. sec. 11.

i See the lines of Francis Beaumont quoted above.

Chapel of Edward the Confessor 43

This chapel, more than any other part of the Abbey, remain s as it was
left by its second founder, Henry III. He made it a Holy of Holies
to contain the shrine of his sainted predecessor. For this he moved
the high altar westward, and made the choir project far down into
the nave, like the coro of a Spanish cathedral ; for this he raised
behind the high altar a mound of earth, said to be formed by several
shiploads of earth brought from the Holy Land — 'the last funeral
tumulus in England.' For this in 1279 he imported from Rome
' Peter, the Roman citizen ' (absurdly supposed by Walpole and
Virtue to be the famous mosaicist Pietro Cavallini, who was not
born till that date), who has left us the pavement glowing with
peacock hues of Opus Alexandrinum, which recalls the pavements
of the Roman basilicas, and the twisted pillars of the shrine itself,
which are like those of the cloisters in S. Paolo and S. Giovanni
Laterano.

Edward the Confessor died in the opening days of 1066, when
his church at Westminster had just been consecrated in the presence
of Edith, his queen. He was buried before the high altar with his
crown upon his head, a golden chain and crucifix around his neck,
and his pilgrim's ring upon his finger. Thus he was seen when his
coffin was opened by Henry I. in the presence of Bishop Gundulf,
who tried to steal a hair from his white beard. Thus he was again
seen by Henry II., in whose reign he was - transferred by Archbishop
Becket to a new and ' precious feretry,' just after his canonisation
(Feb. 7, 1161) by Pope Alexander III., who enjoined 'that his body
be honoured here on earth, as his soul is glorified in heaven/ Henry
III. also looked upon the 'incorrupt' body, before its translation
to its present resting-place, on the shoulders of the royal Planta-
genet princes, whose own sepulchres were afterwards to gather
around it. The body lies in a stone coffin, iron-bound, within the
shrine of marble and mosaic. It appears from an illumination in
the ' Life of St. Edward ' in the University Library at Cambridge
that, after his canonisation, one end of the shrine was for some
time left open, that sick persons might creep through and touch
the coffin. The seven recesses at the sides of the shrine were in-
tended for pilgrims to kneel under. The inlaid wooden wainscoting
on the top was added by Abbot Feckenham in the reign of Mary
I., by whom the shrine was restored, for it had been partially, if
not wholly, displaced at the Dissolution. Before that it probably
had a gothic canopy. At the coronation of James II. both shrine
and coffin were broken by the fall of some scaffolding. It was then
robbed for the last time. Henry Kcepe, who wrote the ' Monumenta
Westmonasteriensia,' relates that he himself put in his hand and
drew forth the chain and crucifix of the Confessor, which were
accepted by the last of the Stuart kings. The shrine, which was
one of the most popular points of pilgrimage before the Reforma-
tion, is still an object of pilgrimage with Roman Catholics. Around
the Confessor lie his nearest relations. On his left rests his wife
6 Edith or Eadgyth, of venerable memory' (1075), the daughter of
Earl Godwin, and sister of Harold. On his right (moved from the

Westminster

old Chapterhouse by Henry III.) lies his great-niece, another Edith
(1118), whose Saxon name was changed to the Norman Maud, the
daughter of Malcolm Ceannmor of Scotland, grand-daughter of
Edward Atheling, and wife of Henry I. She had been accustomed
frequently to pass days and nights together, kneeling, bare-footed
and dressed in haircloth, before her uncle's shrine, and had herself
the reputation of a saint. She was 6 the very mirror of piety,
humility, and princely bounty,' says Florence of Worcester. 'Her
virtues were so great,' say the 'Annals of Waverley,' that 'an entire
day would not suffice to recount them.' Before the shrine, as Pen-
nant says, the spolia opima were offered, the Scottish regalia, and
the sacred stone from Scone ; and here the little Alphonso, son
of Edward I., offered the golden coronet of Llewellyn, Prince of
Wales. 1 It was while kneeling before the shrine that Henry IV.
fell into the fatal fit of which he died in the Jerusalem Chamber.
Here his widow, the unfortunate Joanna, was compelled to make a
public thank-offering for the victory of Agincourt, in which her
brother and son-in-law were killed and her son taken prisoner.
Behind the shrine, where the chantry of Henry V. now stands,
were preserved the relics given by St. Edward to the church — a
tooth of St. Athanasius, a stone which was believed to have been
marked by the last footprint of the Saviour at His ascension, and a
phial of the precious blood.

The fantastic legend of the Confessor is told in the fourteen
rude sculptures on the screen which divides the chapel from the
choir. We see—

1. The Bishop and Nobles swear fealty to the yet unborn child of Queen

Emma, wife of Ethelred the Unready.

2. The child, Edward, is born at Islip in Oxfordshire.

3. His Coronation on Easter Day, 1043.

4. He sees the Devil dancing on the casks in which his tax of Danegelt was

collected, and decides to abolish it.

5. He warns a scullion who has been stealing from his treasure-chest to escape

before Hugolin his treasurer returns and catches him.

6. He sees our Saviour in a vision, standing on the altar of the church, where

he is about to receive the Sacrament.

7. He has a vision of the King of Denmark, who is drowned on his way to

invade England.

8. The boys, Tosti and Harold, brothers-in-law of the king, have a quarrel at

the king's table, prophetic of their future feuds.

9. The Confessor, seated in the midst of his courtiers, has a vision of the seven

Sleepers of Ephesus, who turn suddenly from the right side to the left,
portending great misfortunes.

10. The Confessor meets with St. John the Evangelist as a pilgrim and beggar,

and having no alms, presents him with a ring.

11. The blind are restored to sight by the water in which the Confessor has

washed.

12. St. John meets in Palestine two English pilgrims of Ludlow, and bids them

restore the ring to Edward, and warn him that within six months he would
meet him in Paradise.

13. The pilgrims deliver the ring and message to the king.

14. Edward, warned of his approaching death, completes the dedication of the

Abbey. 2

1 Gough, Sepulchral Monuments.

2 The date of this screen is uncertain, but it must have been later than the

Chapel of Edward the Confessor 45

The whole chapel is, as John Dart has it, ' paved with princes,
and a royal race,' kings, queens, and princes, who all wished to rest
as near as possible to the miracle-working shrine.

On the left of the steps by which we ascend is the tomb of the
founder, Henry III. (1272).

'Quiet King Henry III., our English Nestor (not for depth of brains, but for
length of life), who reigned fifty-six years, in which term he buried all his con-
temporary princes in Christendom twice over. All the months in the year may
be in a manner carved out of an April day ; hot, cold, dry, moist, fair, foul
weather being oft presented therein. Such the character of this king's life-
certain only in uncertainty ; sorrowful, successful ; in plenty, in penury ; in
wealth, in want; conquered, conqueror.' — Fuller's 'Church History.'

Henry died at Westminster Palace 1 on the day of St. Edmund
of Canterbury. His body was carried in state by the Knights
Templar, 2 whom he had first introduced into England, and his
effigy was so splendidly attired ' that,' says Wykes, ' he shone
more magnificent when dead than he had appeared when living.'
On the day of St. Edmund, king and martyr, he was buried
here before the high altar, in the coffin in which Henry II. had
laid the Confessor, and whence he himself had removed him.
His son Edward, then returning from Palestine, who had lately
heard of the death of his sons Henry and John, broke into pas-
sionate grief on hearing the news of this third bereavement — 'God
may give me more sons, but not another father.' He brought from
abroad the 'diverse-coloured marbles and glittering stones,' and
'the twisted or serpentine columns of the same speckled marble,' :}
with which the tomb was constructed by ' Peter, the Roman citi-
zen ; ' and thither he transferred his father's body, at the same
time fulfilling a promise which Henry had made to the Abbess of
Fontevrault by delivering his heart to her, to be enshrined in the
Norman abbey where his mother Isabella, his uncle Richard I., his
grandfather Henry II., and his grandmother Eleanor were buried.
The effigy of the king, by the English artist William Torel, is of
gilt brass. The king wears a coronet, and a long mantle reaching
to his feet.

Lying at her father-in-law's feet is 'the queen of good memory,'
the beautiful Queen Eleanor (1290), wife of Edward I., and daughter
of Ferdinand III. of Castile. Married in her tenth year to a husband
of fifteen, she was separated from him till she was twenty, and
then won his intense affection by a life of heroic devotion, especi-
ally during the perils of the Crusades, through which she insisted
upon accompanying him, saying in answer to all remonstrances,
' Nothing ought to part those whom God has joined, and the way
to heaven is as near from Palestine as from England.' She was

time of Richard II., as part of the canopy of his tomb has been cut away to
make room for its stonework. The subjects of the sculptures are taken from
Abbot Ailred's Life and Miracles of St. Edivard, written on the occasion of the
translation of the relics of the saint in 1163, or fragments taken from an older Life.

1 Rishanger says that he died at Bury St. Edmunds, but all other authorities
agree that he died at Westminster.

2 See Gough. 3 Keepe.

Westminster

the mother of four sons, of whom only one (Edward II.) survived
her, and of nine daughters, of whom only four married. ' To our
nation,' says Walsingham, * she was a loving mother, the column
and pillar of the whole realm. She was a godly, modest, and merci-
ful princess. . . . The sorrow-stricken she consoled as became her
dignity, and she made them friends that were at discord.' She
was taken ill at Hardby, near Grantham, while Edward was absent
on his Scottish wars, and died before he could reach her. His
passionate grief expended itself in a line of nine crosses, erected at
the towns where her body rested on its progress to London. Every
Abbot of Westminster, as he entered on his office, was bound by
oath to see that a hundred wax lights were burning round her grave
on St. Andrew's Eve, the anniversary of her death. Her heart was
given to the convent of Blackfriars.

The queen's tomb, of Petworth marble, is by Eichard of Crun-
dale, who erected her cross at Charing ; the railing is by Thomas, a
smith of Leighton Beaudesert (Buzzard) ; the exquisite figure is by
the Englishman William I'orel, who built the furnace in which the
statue was cast in St. Margaret's Churchyard. The effigy of Eleanor
is the earliest portrait-statue we possess of an English sovereign.
The beautiful features of the dead queen are expressed in the most
serene quietude : her long hair waves from beneath the circlet on
her brow. One can see the character which was always able to
curb the wild temper of her husband — the wife, as he wrote to the
Abbot of Cluny, whom ' living he loved, and dead he should never
cease to love.' In the decorations of the tomb, the arms of Castile
and Leon, and of Ponthieu, hang upon vines and oak branches.
When Abbot Feckenham placed an inscription on the tomb of
Edward I., he inscribed on that of Eleanor: 'Kegina Alionora
consors Edwardi Primi fuit haec. Alionora, 1290. Disce mori.'

Edivard I. himself (1307) lies on the same side of the chapel, near
the screen. He died at Burgh on Solway Firth, after a reign of
thirty-four years, was buried for a time at Waltham, and then
removed hither to a position between his father's tomb and that of
his brother Edmund. His body was embalmed like a mummy, bound
in cerecloth, and robed in cloth of gold, with a crown on his head,
a sceptre in one hand, and the rod with the dove in the other.
Thus he was seen when the tomb was opened in 1771. A wooden
canopy once overshadowed the tomb, but this was broken down in
a tumult ^at the funeral of Pulteney, Earl of Bath. Now the tomb
of the greatest of the Plantagenets, the loving son and husband
who erected such magnificent monuments to father and wife, is one
of the plainest in the Abbey. Five slabs of grey marble compose
it, and it bears the inscription (placed here by Abbot Feckenham
in the time of Mary I.), 'Edvardus Primus Scottorvm malleus hie
est. 1308. Pactum serva.'

1 Is the unfinished tomb a fulfilment of that famous "pact," which the dying
king required of his son, that his flesh should be boiled, his bones carried at the
head of the English army till Scotland was subdued, and his heart sent to the
Holy Land, which he had vainly tried in his youth to redeem from the Saracens ?

Chapel of Edward the Confessor 47

It is true that with the death of the king all thought of the conquest of Scotland
ceased. But it may possibly have been "to keep the pact" that the tomb was
left in this rude state, which would enable his successors at any moment to take
out the corpse and carry off the heart ;— and it may have been with a view to
this that a singular provision was left and enforced. Once every two years this
tomb was to be opened, and the wax of the king's cerecloth renewed. This
renewal constantly took place as long as his dynasty lasted, perhaps with a
lingering hope that the time would come when a victorious English army would
once more sweep through Scotland with the conqueror's skeleton, or another
crusade embark for Palestine with that true English heart. The hour never
came, and when the dynasty changed with the fall of Richard II. , the renewal
of the cerement ceased.' — Dean Stanley.

At Edward's death he left his second wife, Marguerite of France,
a widow of twenty-six. She kept a chronicler, John o' London, to
record the valiant deeds of her husband ; and when Edward died
the people of England were edified by her breaking forth, through
his pen, into a lamentation like that for Saul and Jonathan — 'At
the foot of Edward's monument with my little sons, I weep and
call upon him. When Edward died all men died to me,' &C. 1

Near the tomb of Edward was preserved in a gold vase the heart
of his cousin Henry d'Almayne, nephew of Henry III., whose
murder (1271) by Guy de Montfort in the cathedral of Viterbo is
commemorated by Dante. On the other side of the shrine lie some
children of another cousin, Aylmer de Valence.

The next tomb in point of date is that of Queen Philippa (1369),
daughter of William, Earl of Hainault, and wife of Edward III., by
whom she was the mother of fourteen children. In this she only
fulfilled expectations, for we learn from Hardyng that when the
king was sending to choose one of the Earl's daughters, an English
bishop advised him to choose the lady of largest frame, as promis-
ing the most numerous progeny. 2 She was the foundress of Queen's
College at Oxford. The figure which lies upon her tomb, executed
by Hawkin of Liege, a Flemish artist, is remarkable for its cushioned
head-dress, and is evidently an attempt at a portrait. Around the
tomb were placed the figures of thirty royal persons to whom she
was related. ' The open-work of the niches over the head of the
effigy itself has been filled in with blue glass. The magnificence
of the entire work may be imagined when it is known that it con-
tained, when perfect, more than seventy statues and statuettes
(by John Orchard of London), besides several brass figures on the
surrounding railing.' 3

4 When the good queen perceived her end approaching, she called to the king,
and extending her right hand from under the bedclothes, put it into the right
hand of the king, who was very sorrowful at heart, and thus spoke : "We have
enjoyed our union in happiness, peace, and prosperity : I entreat, therefore, of
you, that on our separation you will grant me three requests." The king, with
sighs and tears, replied, "Lady, ask : whatever you request shall be granted."
"My lord, I beg you will acquit me of whatever engagements I may have
entered into formerly with merchants for their wares, as well on this as on the

1 See Strickland's Life of Marguerite of France.

2 See Hardyng, cap. 178.

3 Sir G. Scott's Gleanings.

Westminster

other side of the sea. I beseech you to fulfil whatever gifts or legacies I may-
have made. Thirdly, I entreat that, when it shall please God to call you hence,
you will not choose any other sepulchre than mine, and that you will lie beside
me in the cloister of Westminster." The king, in tears, replied, "Lady, I grant
them." Soon after, the good lady made the sign of the cross on her breast, and
having recommended to God the king and her youngest son, Thomas, who was
present, gave up her spirit, which, I firmly believe, was caught by the holy
angels, and carried to the glory of heaven : for she had never done anything, by
thought or deed, that could endanger her losing it.' — Froissart.

Thomas of Woodstock, Duke of Gloucester, the son who was present
at Philippa's death-bed, is the only one buried beside her. At five
years old he had been left guardian of the kingdom while his
parents were absent in French wars, and had represented his
father by sitting on the throne before Parliaments. He married
the Bohun co-heiress, whose splendid brass remains in St. Edmund's
Chapel, and was a great patron of literature, especially of Gower
the poet. He was smothered at Calais in 1397, by order of his
nephew, Kichard II., and rests, in front of his mother's tomb,
under a large stone which once bore a brass. Gower, in his 'Vox
Clamantis,' has a Latin poem on the Duke of Gloucester, in which
the following lines record his death : —

' Heu quam tortorum quidam de sorte malorum,
Sic Ducis electi plumarum pondere lecti,
Corporis quassatum jugulantque necant jugulatum.'

In accordance with the promise made to the dying Philippa, the
next tomb on the south is that of King Edward III., 1377 —

' The honourable tomb
That stands upon your royal grandsire's bones,'

mentioned in Shakspeare's Richard II. Edward died at Sheen,
was carried, with face uncovered, through the streets of London,
followed by his many children, and was laid in Philippa's grave.
The features of the effigy which lies upon the tomb are believed to
have been cast from the king's face as he lay in death, and ' the
head is almost ideal in its beauty.' 1

4 Corpore fuit elegans, statura quae nec justum excederet nec nimis depressioni
succumberet, vultum habens humana mortalitate, magis venerabilem, similem
angelo, in quo relucebat tarn mirifica gratia ut si quis in ejus faciem palam
respexisset vel nocte de illo somniasset eo proculdubio die sperabat sibi jocunda
solatia proven tura. ' — Walsingham.

In th« words of his epitaph, he was ' flos regum preteritorum,
forma futurorum.' All his children were represented around the
tomb in brass : six only remain — Edward the Black Prince, who
was only eighteen years younger than his father, Joan of the
Tower, Lionel Duke of Clarence, Edmund Duke of York, Mary of
Brittany, and William of Hatfield. We have seen two other children
in the Chapel of St. Edmund. 2

1 Lord Lindsay, Christian Art, iii.

2 Professor Westmacott, in his lecture on the 1 Sculpture of Westminster
Abbey,' remarks on the shoes of Edward III.'s effigy being 'left and right,'
erroneously supposed to be a modern fashion of shoemaking.

Chapel of Edward the Confessor

' Mighty victor ! mighty lord,

Low on his funeral couch he lies ;
No pitying heart, no eye, afford

A tear to grace his obsequies.
Is the sable warrior fled ?
Thy son is gone : he rests among the dead !
The swarm that in thy noontide beam were born
Gone to salute the rising morn.'— Gray.

' With its stiff drapery, broad expressionless face, long hair and beard, and the
almost painful symmetry with which the hands hold the sceptres of his two
kingdoms, the figure is more like that of a hermit than a king.' — Liibke.

The Black Prince was buried at Canterbury, but Richard //., his
son by the Fair Maid of Kent, who succeeded Edward III. in his
eleventh year, and who had been baptized, married, and crowned in
the Abbey, removed the Bohun grandchildren of Edward I. that he
might lie near his grandfather, and on the death of his beloved first
wife, Queen Anne of Bohemia (1394), sister of the Emperor Wences-
laus (by whom the use of pins and side-saddles was first intro-
duced into England), in the twelfth year of her married life, he
erected her tomb in its place. The tomb cost £10,000 of our
money. It was designed by Henry Yelverley, the architect of
Westminster Hall, and Stephen Lote. On it Nicholas Broker and
Godfrey Brest, citizens and coppersmiths of London, were ordered
to represent her effigy with his own, their right hands tenderly
clasped together, so that they might always bear witness to his
devotion to the wife whom he lamented with such extravagant
grief that he caused the palace of Shene to be razed to the ground,
because it had been the scene of her death. The effigies are partly
of brass and partly of copper. That of the king —

' That small model of the barren earth,
Which serves as paste and cover to our bones,' —

is attired like an ecclesiastic, his hair curls, and he has a pointed
beard, but not much trace of the ' surpassing beauty for which he
was celebrated.' The king's robe is decorated with the broom-
cods of the Plantagenets, and 'the sun rising through the dark
clouds of Crecy.' The arms of the loving couple have been stolen,
with the pillows which supported the royal heads, the two lions
which lay at Richard's feet, and the eagle and leopard which sup :
ported those of the queen. The canopy is decorated within with
half-obliterated paintings of the Almighty and of the Virgin with
the Saviour, on a diapered ground like that of the portrait of
Kichard II. Here also, when the feeble London light allows, may
be seen the arms of Queen Anne — the two-headed eagle of the
empire, and the lion rampant of Bohemia. After the death (pro-
bably the murder) of King Richard II. in Pontefract Castle in lo99,
his body was brought to London by order of Henry IV., and exposed
in St. Paul's — 'his visage left opyn, that menmyght see and knowe
his personne,' — and was then interred in the church of the Preach-
ing Friars at Langley in Hertfordshire. There it lay till the acces-
sion of Henry V., who, soon after his coronation (already aspiring
to the hand of Katherine, sister of Richard's widow Isabella,

Westminster

afterwards Duchesse d'Orleans), exhumed it, seated it in a chair of
state, and, with his whole court, followed in the strange procession
which bore it to Westminster, and laid it in the grave of Queen
Anne. The king's epitaph is very curious, as bearing witness to the
commencement of the struggle with the early Reformers —

' Corpore procerus, animo prudens ut Homerus,
Obruit haereticos, et eorum stravit amicos.'

The epitaph begins on the north side : the first letter contains a
feather with a scroll, the badge of Edward III. 1

By especial desire of Richard II. , his favourite, John of Waltham
(1395), Bishop of Salisbury, Keeper of the Great Seal and Lord
High Treasurer, whom Richard 'loved entirely,' was buried here
amongst the kings, and lies under a large stone in front of the tomb
of Edward I.

We must now turn to the eastern end of the chapel, where the
grand tomb of Henry V. (1422), 'Henry of Monmouth,' the hero of
Agincourt, the greatest king England had known till that time,
rises in a position which encroaches terribly on the tombs of Eleanor
and Philippa. His body was brought to England, though Taris and
Rouen offered large sums of money to retain it, and even the sacred
relics collected by the Confessor were removed to make room for
his monument, and placed in a chest between the shrine and the
tomb of Henry III.

Henry V. died at Vincennes in his thirty-fourth year, and his
funeral procession from thence to Calais, and from Dover to London,
was the most magnificent ever known. Katherine de Valois, his
widow, followed the corpse, with James I. of Scotland, as chief
mourner. On reaching London, the funeral rites were celebrated
first at St. Paul's and then at the Abbey. Here the king's three
chargers were led up to the altar behind the effigy of the king, it
being the first case in which such an effigy was so used. All
England mourned.

'Hung be the heavens with black, yield clay to n'ght !
Henry the Fifth, too famous to live long !
England ne'er lost a king of so much worth.'

' Les plus mecontents ne pouvaient nier que cet Anglais ne f ut une noble figure
de roi, et vraiment royale. II avait la mine haute, l'air froidement orgueilleux,
mais il se contraignait assez pour parler honnotement a chacun, selon sa condi-
tion, surtout aux gens d'Eglise. II etait surtout beau a voir, quand on lui appor-
tait de mauvaises nouvelles, il ne sourcillait pas, c' etait la plus superbe egalite
dame.' — Michelet, 1 Hist, de France.'

The tomb of Henry ' towers above the Plantagenet graves beneath, as his em-
pire towered above their kingdom. As ruthlessly as any improvement of modern
times, it devoured half the beautiful monuments of Eleanor and Philippa. Its
structure is formed out of the first letter of his name— H. Its statues represent
not only the glories of Westminster, in the persons of its two founders, but the
glories of the two kingdoms which he had united—St. George, the patron of Eng-
land ; St. Denys, the patron of France. The sculptures round the Chapel break
out into a vein altogether new in the Abbey. They describe the personal peculi-
arities of the man and his history— the scenes of his coronation, with all the
grandees of his court around him, and his battles in France. Amongst the

i Londiniana, vol. i.

Chapel of Edward the Confessor

heraldic emblems — the swans and antelopes derived from the De Bohuns — is the
miming beacon or cresset light which he took for his badge, "showing thereby
that, although his virtues and good parts had been formerly obscured, and lay
as a dead coal, waiting light to kindle it, by reason of tender years and evil
company, notwithstanding, he being now come to his perfecter years and riper
understanding, had shaken off his evil counsellors, and being now on his high
imperial throne, that his virtues should now shine as the light of a cresset, which
is no ordinary light." Aloft were hung his large emblazoned shield, his saddle,
and his helmet, after the example of the like personal accoutrements of the
Black Prince at Canterbury. The shield has lost its splendour, but is still there.
The saddle is that on which he

"Vaulted with such ease into his seat,
As if an angel dropp'd down from the clouds,
To witch the world with noble horsemanship." 1
The helmet — which, from its elevated position, has almost become apart of the
architectural outline of the Abbey, and on which many a Westminster boy has
wonderingly gazed from his place in the choir — is in all probability " that very
casque that did affright the air at Agincourt," which twice saved his life on that
eventful day— still showing in its dints the marks of the ponderous sword of the
Duke of Alencon — "the bruised helmet" which he refused to have borne in
state before him on his triumphal entry into London, "for that he would have
the praise chiefly given to God : "

"Being free from vainness and self -glorious pride ;
Giving full trophy, signal, and ostent,
Quite from himself, to God." 2
Below is his tomb, which still bears some marks of the inscription which makes
him the Hector of his age. Upon it lay his effigy stretched out, cut from the
solid heart of an English oak, plated with silver-gilt, with a head of solid silver.
It has suffered more than any other monument in the Abbey. Two teeth of
gold were plundered in Edward IV. 's reign. The whole of the silver was carried
off by some robbers who had 1 ' broken in the night-season into the Church of
Westminster," at the time of the Dissolution. But, even in its mutilated form,
the tomb has always excited the keen interest of Englishmen. The robbery " of
the image of King Henry of Monmouth " was immediately investigated by the
Privy Council. Sir Philip Sidney felt, that "who goes but to Westminster, in
the church may see Harry the Fifth;" and Sir Roger de Coverley's anger was
roused at the sight of the lost head : "Some Whig, I'll warrant you. You ought
to lock up your kings better ; they'll carry off the body too, if you don't take
care." ' — Dean Sta?iley, 'Memorials of Westminster.'

From the Chantry above the tomb (only shown by special order),
where Henry ordained that the masses were to be for ever offered
up for his soul by i sad and solemn priests,' one can look down into
the shrine of the Confessor, and see the chest it contains.

Under the altar of the Chantry now rests the body of Queen
Katherine de Valois, daughter of Charles VI. of France, and Isa-
bella of Bavaria. After the close of the brief married life, in which,
as queen of Henry V., she was 'received in England as if she had
been an angel of God,' 3 being widowed at twenty-one, she sunk at
once into obscurity, and her son, Henry VI., was taken from her
guardianship to be brought up by the Earl of Warwick. Falling in
love with Owen Tudor, a handsome Welsh squire of her Windsor
guard, she married him secretly, and became the mother of three
children, Edmund, Earl of Richmond, father of Henry VII. ; Jasper,

1 Henry IV., Part I. Act iv. Scene 1.

2 Some contend that the helmet is only one mentioned in the account as having
been ordered for his funeral.

3 Monstrelet.

Westminster

Duke of Bedford, and Owen, a monk of Westminster. But the
anger excited by the discovery of the queen's mesalliance led to her
being deprived of her children, to the imprisonment of her husband
in Newgate, and to her being herself shut up in Bermondsey Abbey,
where she died in 1437. She was buried at first in the Lady Chapel,
at the east end of the Abbey. When that chapel was pulled down
to make room for the building of Henry VII., her- mummified body
was placed in a wooden chest by the side of Henry V.'s tomb.
Pepys, writing Feb. 22, 1668-69, says—

1 Here we did see, by particular favour, the body of Queen Katherine of Valois ;
and I had. the upper part of her body in. my hands, and I did kiss her mouth,
reflecting upon it that I did kiss a queene, and that this was my birthday, thirty-
six years old, that I did kiss a queene. '—Diary.

In 1776 the body of Queen Katherine was laid (at the funeral of
Elizabeth, Duchess of Northumberland) in the vault of the Percies
in the Chapel of St. Nicholas, but when that vault was opened in
1878 for the funeral of Lord Henry Percy, it was brought back
here and buried near her royal husband.

Close to Edward III.'s monument is the little tomb of the infant
Princess Margaret of York (1397), daughter of Edward IV. and Eliza-
beth Woodville ; and opposite it that of Princess Elizabeth Tudor,
daughter of Henry VII., who died at Eltham, aged three.

In front of the screen, facing the foot of St, Edward's shrine,
stand the Coronation Chairs, which, at coronations, are moved to
the middle of the chancel. That on the left, scratched and battered
by irreverent visitors, as full of varied colour as a mountain land-
scape, is the chair decorated by ' William the Painter ' for Edward I.
In it was enclosed by Edward III., in 1328, the famous Prophetic
Stone or Stone of Destiny of Scone, on which the Scottish kings were
crowned, 1 and with which the destinies of the Scottish rule were
believed to be enwoven, according to the old metrical prophecy —

' Ni fallat fatum, Scoti, quocunque locatum
Invenient lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem.'

The legend of the Stone relates that it was the pillow on which the
Patriarch Jacob slept at Bethel when he saw the Vision of the
Ladder reaching to heaven. From Bethel the sons of Jacob carried
the Stone into Egypt. Thither came Gathelus the Greek, the son
of Cecrops, the builder of Athens, who married Scota, 2 the daughter
of Pharaoh, but being alarmed at the judgments pronounced

1 The custom of inaugurating a king upon a stone was of Eastern origin, and
became general among Celtic and .Scandinavian nations. Seven of the Anglo-
Saxon kings were crowned on 'the King's Stone,' which still remains in the
street of Kingston-on-Thames.

2 According to the Chronicle of Robert of Gloucester, Scotland was named
from Scota.

1 The Scottes yclupped were
After a woman that Scote hyght, the dawter of Pharaon
Yat broghte into Scotlond a whyte marble ston,
Yat was ordeyed for thare King, whan he coroned wer
And for a grete Jewyll long hit was yhold ther.'

Chapel of Edward the Confessor

against Egypt by Moses, who had not then crossed the Ked Sea, he
fled to Spain, where he built the city of Brigantia. With him he
took the Stone of Bethel, seated upon which ' he gave laws and
administered justice unto his people, thereby to menteine them in
wealth and quietnesse.' 1 In after days there was a king in Spain
named Milo, of Scottish origin, and one of his younger sons, named
Simon Brek, beloved by his father beyond all his brothers, was
sent with an invading army to Ireland, that he might reduce it to
his dominion, which he did, and reigned there many years. His
prosperity was due to a miracle, for when his ships first lay oil' the
coast of Ireland, as he drew in his anchors, the famous Stone was
hauled up with the anchors into the ship. Received as a precious
boon from heaven, it was placed upon the sacred hill of Tara, where
it was called Lia-fail, the ' Stone of Destiny,' and gave the ancient
name of Innis-fail, or 'the Island of Destiny,' to the kingdom. 2
Irish antiquaries maintain that on the hill of Tara the real Stone
still remains, but others assert that about 330 years before Christ,
Fergus, the founder of the Scottish monarchy, bore the Stone
across the sea to Dunstaffnage, where an ancient sculpture has
been found of a king with a book of the laws in his hand, seated in
the ancient chair 'whose bottom was the Fatal Stone.' 3 But from
Dunstaffnage the Stone was again removed and carried to Iona by
Fergus, who

1 Broucht J>is stanc wythin Scotland,
Fyrst qwhen he come and wane J) at land,
And fyrst it set in Ikkolmkil.'

It was Kenneth II. who, according to the legend, in a.d. 840,
brought the Stone to Scone, and there enclosed it in a chair of wood,
4 endeavouring to confirm his royal authority by mean and trivial
things, almost bordering on superstition itself.' 5 The first authentic
record of a coronation at Scone is that of Malcolm IV. in 1154, and
upon it all succeeding kings of Scotland were inaugurated till the
time of John Baliol, who, according to Hardy nge, was crowned

'In the Minster of Scone, within Scotlad grond,
Sittyng vpon the regal stone full sound,
As all the Kynges there vsed had afore,
On Sainct Andrewes day, with al joye therefore.'

After Edward I. had defeated Baliol near Dunbar in 1296, he is
said, before he left the country, to have been himself crowned king
of Scotland upon the sacred Stone at Scone. However this may be,
on his return to England he carried off as trophies of his conquest,
not only the Scottish regalia, but the famous 'Stone of Destiny,' 'to
create in the Scots a belief that the time of the dissolution of their
monarchy was come.' G Placing the Stone in the Abbey of West-
minster, he ordered that it should be enclosed in a chair of wood.

i Holinshed.

3 Pennant's Tour to the Hebrides.
5 Buchanan's History of Scotland.

2 Sir James Ware.

4 Wyntoun's Cronykil.

6 See llapin's Hist, of England, i. 375.

Westminster

4 for a masse priest to sit in.' 1 Various applications were after-
wards made for the restoration of the Stone to the northern king-
dom, and the immense importance which the Scotch attached
to it is shown by its having been the subject of a political confer-
ence between Edward III. and David II., king of Scots. In 132S
Edward III. actually agreed to deliver it up : 2 the Scottish regalia

THE CORONATION CHAIR.

was sent back, but when it came to giving up the Stone, * the people
of London would by no means allow it to depart from themselves.*
The Stone (which geologically is of reddish sandstone) is inserted
beneath the seat of the chair, with an iron handle on either side, so
that it may be lifted up. The chair is of oak, and has once been

i Hardyng's Chronicle.

2 Ayliffe's Calendars, p. 58.

Chapel of Edward the Confessor 55

entirely covered with gilding and painting, now worn away with time
and injured by the nails which have been driven in when it has
been covered with cloth of gold at the coronations. At the back
a strong lens will still discover the figure of a king, seated on a
cushion diapered with lozenges, his feet resting on a lion, and other
ornaments. 1

In this chair all the kings of England since the time of Edward I.
have been crowned ; even Cromwell was installed in it as Lord Pro-
tector in Westminster Hall, on the one occasion on which it has been
carried out of the church.

When Shakspeare depicts Eleanor, Duchess of Gloucester, impart-
ing her aspirations to her husband Humphrey, she says —

'Methought I sate in seat of majesty
In the Cathedral Church of Westminster,
And in that Chair where kings and queens are crowned.'

2 Henry VI., Act i. sc. 2.

The second chair was made for the coronation of Mary II., and
has been used ever since for the queens consort.

Between the chairs, leaning against the screen, are preserved the
state Shield' 2 and Sword of Edward III., which were carried before
him in France. This is 'the monumental sword that conquer' d
France,' mentioned by Dryden : it is 7 feet long and weighs 18 lbs.

( Sir Roger de Coverley laid his hand upon Edward the Third's sword, and lean-
ing upon the pommel of it, gave us the whole history of the Black Prince ; con-
cluding, that in Sir Richard Baker's opinion Edward the Third was one of the
greatest princes that ever sat upon the English throne.'— Spectator, No. 329.

Before leaving the Chapel w r e must glance at its upper window,
filled with figures of saints, executed in stained glass, of the kind
called 'Pot-metal,' in the reign of Henry VI.

' A feeling sad came o'er me as I trod the sacred ground
Where Tudors and Plantagenets were lying all around :
I stepp'd with noiseless foot, as though the sound of mortal tread
Might burst the bands of the dreamless sleep that wraps the mighty dead.'

Ingoldsby Legends.

Returning to the aisle, we may admire from beneath, where we
see them at their full height, three beautiful tombs of the family of
Henry III.

* Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster (1296), second son of Henry III., who
fought in the Crusades. His name of Crouchback is believed to have had its
origin in the cross or crouch which he wore embroidered on his habit after he
had engaged to join in a crusade in 1269.

1 Edward above his menne was largely seen,
By his shoulders more hei and made full clene.
Edmond next hym the comeliest Prince alive,
Not croke-backed, ne in no wyse disfigured.
As some menne wrote, the right lyne to deprive,
Through great falsehed made it to be scriptured. '— Hardyng.

1 Nearly all these and many other particulars concerning the Coronation Chair
will be found in an article in Brayley's Londiniana, vol. ii. See also Skene,
Proceeding* of the Society of Scotland, vol. viii.

2 Of wood lined with leather.

Westminster

He received an imaginary grant of the kingdom of Sicily and Apulia from Pope
Innocent IV. when he was only eight years old, which led to the extortions of
Henry for the support of his claim. On the death of Simon de Montfort, he was
made Earl of Leicester and Seneschal of England by his father. He died at
Bayonne. At the base of the monument are figures of the gallant party who
went together to the Crusades — Edmund, his brother Edward I., his uncle
William de Valence, three other earls, and four knights. The effigy of Edmund
himself is exceedingly noble and dignified. Sculptured on his tomb are the
roses of the House of Lancaster, a badge first introduced from the roses which lie
brought over from Provins (' Provence roses '), where they had been planted by
Crusaders. The House of Lancaster claimed the throne by descent from this
prince, and his second wife, Blanche, Queen of Navarre.

* Aylmer or Audomar de Valence, Earl of Pembroke (1323), third son of William
de Valence, and nephew of Henry III. He fought in the Scottish wars of Edward I. ,
when he hanged Nigel Bruce, and in those of Edward II. against the barons
under Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, and he connived at his sentence. This is said
to have proved fatal to him. He went into France with Queen Isabel, and there
died — ' sodenly murdered by the vengeance of God, for he consented to the death
of St. Thomas.' 1 The sculpture of this tomb is decidedly French in character.
Two angels, at the head of the effigy, support the soul of Aylmer, which is
ascending to heaven. 2

' At the head of the powerful Earl of Pembroke are three figures — their heads
have unhappily and ruthlessly been shaven off by Cromwell's Puritans— of whom
two are upholding in their arms the kneeling figure of the third. They were two
angels, presenting to God the troubled soul of the dark and silent warrior — 1 Joseph
the Jew,' as he was nicknamed by insolent Piers de Gaveston— who commanded
our army at Bannockburn, and played so large a part among the turbulent barons
of the reign of his half -cousin Edward II.' — F. W. Farrar, * Our English Minsters.'

' The monuments of Aylmer de Valence and Edmund Crouchback are specimens
of the magnificence of our sculpture in the reigns of the first two Edwards. The
loftiness of the work, the number of arches and pinnacles, the lightness of the
spires, the richness and profusion of foliage and crockets, the solemn repose of
the principal statue, the delicacy of thought in the group of angels bearing the
soul, and the tender sentiment of concern variously expressed in the relations
ranged in order round the basement, forcibly arrest the attention, and carry the
thoughts not only to other ages, but to other states of existence.' — Flaxman.

Aveline, Countess of Lancaster (1273). The tomb is concealed on this side by
the ugly monument of

Field-Marshal Lord Ligonier (1770), celebrated as a military commander in all
the wars of Anne, George I., and George II., and who died at ninety-two in the
middle of the reign of George III. The Muse of History is represented as holding a
scroll with the names of his battles. This was the witty Irishman who, when
George II. reviewed his regiment and remarked, 1 Your men look like soldiers,
but the horses are poor,' answered, 1 The men, sire, are Irish, and gentlemen
too ; but the horses are English.' The monument is by J. F. Moore.

(Below Ligonier.) Sir John Harpendon (1457), a low altar-tomb with a brass
effigy, its head resting on a greyhound, its feet on a lion. Sir John was a knight
of Henry V., and the fifth husband of the celebrated Joan de la Pole, Lady
Cobham, whose fourth husband was Sir John Oldcastle.

(In the pavement.) The gravestone, which once bore brasses, of Thomas Brown
and Humphrey Roberts, monks of Westminster, 1508.

Facing the tomb of Edmund Crouchback is the beautiful per-
pendicular Chapel of Abbot Islip, 1532, who laid the foundation-stone
of the greater perpendicular chapel of Henry VII. His name ap-
pears — twice repeated — in the frieze, on which we may also see the

1 Leland, from a chronicle in Peterhouse Library.

2 The mounted knight on the tomb of Aylmer has been quoted as a precedent
for using the original design made for the tomb of Wellington at St. Paul's.

The Wax Effigies

rebus of the abbot — an eye, and a hand holding a slip or branch.
The acts of Islip and his magnificent funeral obsequies are pic-
tured in the exceedingly curious 'Islip Roll' in the Library of the
Society of Antiquaries. In the centre of the chapel, rich in ex-
quisitely finished perpendicular carving, he was buried, but his
curious tomb, which bore his skeleton in alabaster, is destroyed, as
well as a fresco of the Crucifixion with the abbot's figure in prayer
beneath, and the words —

1 In cruce qui pendes Islip miserere .Tohannis,
Sanguine perf uso reparasti quern pretioso. '

In this chapel, without a monument, is buried Anne Mowbray, the
heiress who was married in her childhood to Richard, Duke of York,
the five-year-old murdered son of Edward IV. On the eastern wall
is the monument of Sir Christopher Hatton (1619), great-nephew of
the famous Lord Chancellor.

A winding stair leads to the chamber above the Islip Chapel,
which contains the few remains of the exceedingly curious wax-
work effigies which were carried at the public funerals of great
personages in the Abbey. The first sovereign of whom a repre-
sentation was carried (not then in wax, but in cuir bouilli, coloured,
crowned, and robed) was Henry V., who died in France, and was
brought home in his coffin ; previously the embalmed bodies of the
kings and queens had been carried, with faces uncovered at their
funerals. Nevertheless, commemorative effigies of the Edwards
and Henrys were made for the Abbey, but of these little remains
beyond their wooden framework. When perfect they were exhi-
bited in presses : thus Dryden saw them —

'And now the presses open stand,
And you may see them all a-row.'

Strype mentions the effigies of Edward III., Philippa, Henry V.,
Katherine de Valois, Henry VII., Elizabeth of York, Elizabeth,
Henry Prince of Wales, James I., and Anne of Denmark. The
exhibition of the waxwork figures formerly produced valuable addi-
tion to the small income of the minor canons, though it was much
ridiculed as 'The Ragged Regiment' and * The Play of Dead Volks.' 1
After the show the 'cap of General Monk' used to be sent for con-
tributions.

'I thought on Naseby, Marston Moor, and Worcester's "crowning fight,"
When on mine ear a sound there fell — it chilled me with affright,
As thus in low, unearthly tones, I heard a voice begin —
"This here's the cap of Giniral Monk ! Sir, please put summut in." '

Ingoldsby Legends.

The waxwork figures (admission threepence on Mondays and
Tuesdays, on other days sixpence) are of the deepest interest,
being effigies of the time of those whom they represent, robed by

l See Pope's Life of Seth Ward.

Westminster

the hands of those who knew them and their characteristic habits
of dress. The most interesting of the eleven existing figures is
that of Elizabeth, a restoration by the Chapter, in 1760, of the
original figure carried at her funeral, which had fallen to pieces a
few years before. She looks half-witch and half -ghoul. Her weird
old head is crowned by a diadem, and she wears the huge rulf
laden with a century of dust, the long stomacher covered with
jewels, the velvet robe embroidered with gold and supported on
panniers, and the pointed high-heeled shoes with rosettes, familiar
from her pictures. The original effigy was carried from Whitehall
at her funeral, April 28, 1603.

{ At which time the city of Westminster was surcharged with multitudes
of all sorts of people, in the streets, houses, windows, leads, and gutters, that
came to see the obsequie. And when they beheld her statue, or picture, lying
upon the coffin, set forth in royal robes, having a crown upon the head thereof, and
a ball and a sceptre in either hand, there was such a general sighing, groaning,
and weeping as the like hath not been seen or known in the memory of man ;
neither doth any history mention any people, time, or state, to make like lamenta-
tion for the death of their sovereign.'— Stow.

Next in point of date of the royal effigies is that of Charles If.,
robed in red velvet, with lace collars and ruffles. It long stood
over his grave in Henry VII. 's Chapel, and served as his monu-
ment. By his side once stood the now ruined effigy of General
Monk, dressed in armour. Mary II. and William III. stand
together in an oblong case, on either side of a pedestal. Mary,
who died at thirty-two, is a large woman, nearly six feet high.
The effigy was cast from her dead face. She wears a purple velvet
bodice, three brooches of diamonds decorate her breast, and she
has pearl earrings and a pearl necklace d la Sevigne. The head-
dress is not well preserved, but it was recorded as curious that
the effigy of Mary was originally represented as wearing a fontange,
a streaming riband on the top of a high head-dress (just intro-
duced by the Duchesse de Fontanges, the short-lived mistress of
Louis XIV.), as it was an article of dress which the queen, who
set up as a reformer of female attire, especially inveighed against.
William III. is represented as much shorter than his wife, which
was the case. Next comes the figure of Anne, fat, with hair flowing
on her shoulders, wearing the crown and holding the orb and
sceptre. This figure, which was carried on her coffin, is still the
only sepulchral memorial to this great queen-regnant. There is no
figure of her husband.

' A cloud of remembrances come to mind as we gaze upon the kindly pale face
and somewhat homely form, set out with its brocaded silk robes and pearl orna-
ments. We know that this is the figure that lay upon the funeral car of the royal
lady, and that the dress is such as she was known to wear, and would be recog-
nised as part of her presentment by the silent crowds that gazed upon the solemn
procession ; the same, too, that her numerous little children, all lying in a vault
close by, would have recognised had they lived to grow to an age of recognition.
. . . We think of the Augustan age over which she presided, her friendships,
her tenderness, her bounty, with peculiar interest, and turn from it with linger-
ing regret.' — The Builder, July 7, 1877.

The Duchess of Richmond (La belle Stuart) is represented with
her favourite parrot by her side, dressed in the robes which she

The Wax Effigies

wore at Queen Anne's coronation. Her effigy (by Mrs. Goldsmith)
used to stand near her grave in Henry VI I. 's Chapel, and is one
of the most artistic of the figures ; yet, as we look at it, we can
scarcely realise that this was the lady who, in the reign of Charles
II., was persuaded to sit as 'Britannia' for the efligy on our pence.
Catherine, Duchess of Buckinghamshire (1743), prepared for her own
funeral in her lifetime, and her one anxiety on her death-bed was
to see its pomps prepared before she passed away out of the world,
her last request being that the canopy of her hearse might be sent
home for her death-bed admiration. 'Let them send it, even
though all the tassels are not finished.' Her effigy, with that of
her young son, long stood by her grave in Henry YII.'s Chapel.
Near these reclines the sleeping effigy of her son, Edmund Sheffield,
Duke of Buckinghamshire, who died at Rome in 1735. This was the
figure Duchess Catherine asked her friends to visit, saying that,
if they had a mind to see it, she could Met them in conveniently
by a back door.' 1 The figure of Lrrd Chatham is unimportant,
having only been made (in 1779) to increase the attraction of the
waxworks ; but the figure of Nelson, made as a counter-attraction
to his tomb in the rival church of St. Paul's, is interesting, since,
with the exception of the coat, the dress was actually his.

A ghastly cupboard, which recalls ' El Pudridero ' of the Escurial,
between the figures of Anne and Lord Chatham, contains the re-
mains of the earlier effigies, crowded together. In some of these
the wooden framework is entire, with the features, from which the
wax has peeled off, rudely blocked out. One of them, supposed to
be Philippa, wears a crown. Of others merely the mutilated limbs
remain.

The chest in which the remains of Major Andre were brought
from America to England in 1821 is preserved in this chamber.

As we descend the staircase, the ghoul-like face of Elizabeth in her
corner stares at us over the intervening cases, and will probably
leave a more distinct impression upon those who have looked upon
it than anything else in the Abbey, especially when they consider
it as representing one who only a year before had allowed the
Scottish ambassador (as if by accident) to see her 'dancing high
and disposedly,' that he might disappoint the hopes of his master by
his report of her health and spirits.

Opposite the Islip Chapel we find —

The gravestone of Brian Duppa (1GG2), the tutor to Charles II., who visited him
on his death-bed, and the friend of Charles I., who, when imprisoned in Caris-
brooke, thought himself happy in the society of so good a man. He was in turn
Bishop of Chichester, Salisbury, and Winchester.

Beyond the Chapel is the monument of —

General Wolfe (1759), who fell during the defeat of the French at Quebec, to
which we owe the subjugation of Canada.

'The fall of Wolfe was noble indeed. He received a wound in the head, but
covered it from his soldiers with his handkerchief. A second ball struck him in

i Walpole's Reminiscences,

Westminster

the belly ; but that too he dissembled. A third hitting him in the breast, he
sank under the anguish, and was carried behind the ranks. Yet, fast as life
ebbed out, his whole anxiety centred on the fortune of the day. He begged to
be borne nearer to the action ; but his sight being dimmed by the approach of
death, he entreated to be told what they who supported him saw. He was an-
swered that the enemy gave ground. He eagerly repeated the question, heard the
enemy was totally routed, cried "I am satisfied," and expired.'— Walpote's
Memoirs.

Wolfe was buried at Greenwich, but so great was the enthusiasm for him, that
Dean Zaehary Pearce had actually consented to remove the glorious tomb of
Aylmer de Valence to make room for his cenotaph, and was only prevented by
the remonstrances of Horace Walpole, sacrificing instead the screen of St.
John the Evangelists Chapel and most of the tomb of Abbot Esteney. The
monument is the first public work of Joseph Wilton, whose desire of displaying
his anatomical knowledge caused him to represent Wolfe as a half -naked figure
(in shirt and stockings) in the arms of a full-equipped Grenadier/ receiving a
wreath and palm-branch from Victory. On the basement is a bronze relief by
Capizzoldi, representing the landing of the British troops and the ascent of the
heights of Abraham.

' It is full of truth, and gives a lively image of one of the most daring exploits
that any warriors ever performed. Veterans, who had fought on that memor-
able day, have been observed lingering for hours, following with the end of their
staff the march of their comrades up the shaggy precipice, and discussing the
merits of the different leaders.' — Allan Cunningham.

(In front of Wolfe.) The brass of Abbot Esteney (1498), moved from the tomb
which formed part of the screen he erected for St. John's Chapel. He is repre-
sented in his abbatical vestments, under a threefold canopy. His right hand is
raised in benediction, his left holds a crosier, and proceeding from his mouth are
the words 'Exultabo in Deo Jhu' meo.' The tomb was opened in 1706, and the
abbot was found entire, in a crimson silk gown and white silk stockings, lying in
a coffin quilted with yellow satin.

We now enter a chapel formed by the three Chapels of St. John,
St. Michael, and St. Andrew, 1 once divided by screens, and entered
from the north transept, but mutilated and thrown together for
the convenience of the monuments, many of Which are most un-
worthy of their position. In examining the tombs we can only
regard the chapels as a whole. Two great monuments break the
lines of the centre.

*Sir Francis Vere (1609), who commanded the troops in Holland in the wars of
Elizabeth, and gained the battle of Nieuport. This noble tomb was erected by
his widow, and is supposed to be copied from that of Count Engelbrecht II. of
Nassau at Breda. Sir Francis is represented in a loose gown, lying low upon a
mat, while four knights bear as canopy a slab supporting his armour, in allusion
to his having fallen a victim in sickness to the death he had vainly courted on
the battle-field.

4 When Vere sought death arm'd with the sword and shield,
Death was afraid to meet him in the field ;
But when his weapons he had laid aside,
Death, like a coward, struck him, and he died. ' 2

The supporting knights are noble figures. One day Gtayfere, the Abbey mason,
found Roubiliac, who was superintending the erection of the Nightingale monu-
ment, standing with folded arms, and eyes fixed upon one of them, unconscious

1 Relics of St. Andrew are said to have been given to the Abbey by Edward the
Confessor ; relics of St. John the Evangelist by ' good Queen Maude,' wife of
Henry I.

2 Epitaph on Sir Francis Vere, given in Pettigrew's collection.

St. John, St. Michael, and St. Andrew 61

of all around. 'Hush! he vill speak presently,' said the sculptor, deprecating
the interruption. This tomb ' is one of the hist works executed in the spirit of
our Gothic monuments, and the best.' 1

Henry, Lord Norris (1601), and his wife Margaret, the heiress of Rycote in
Oxfordshire. He was the son of Sir Henry Norris, the gallant friend of Anne
Boleyn, who maintained her innocence to the scaffold. Hence Elizabeth, daughter
of the murdered queen, regarded him with peculiar favour, and, in her eighth
year, knighted him in his own house at Itycote, where she was placed under his
guardianship. She nicknamed Lady Norris, from her swarthy complexion, 1 my
own crow,' and wrote to condole with her by this designation on the death of
one of her sons. The tomb is Corinthian, with eight columns supporting a
canopy, beneath which lie the figures of Lord Norris (created a baron for his
services as ambassador in France) and his wife. Around the base kneel their
eight sons, 'a brood of martial-spirited men, as the Netherlands, Portugal,
Little Bretagne, and Ireland can testify.' 2 William, the eldest, was Marsha] of
Berwick. Sir John had three horses shot under him while fighting against the
Spaniards in the Netherlands. Sir Thomas, Lord Justice of Ireland, died of a
slight wound ' not well looked after.' Sir Henry died of a wound about the same
time. Maximilian was killed in the wars in Brittany, and Edward, Governor of
Ostend, was the only survivor of his parents. :{ Thus, while the others are repre-
sented as engaged in prayer, he is cheerfully looking upwards. All the brothers
are in plate-armour, but unhelmeted, and with trunk-breeches. 'They were
men of a haughty courage, and of great experience in the conduct of military
affairs ; and, to speak in the character of their merit, they were persons of such
renown and worth, as future times must, out of duty, owe them the debt of
honourable memory.'

'The Norrises were all Martis pulli, men of the sword, and never out of
military employment. Queen Elizabeth loved the Norrises for themselves and
herself, being sensible that she needed such martial men for her service.' —
Fuller's ' Worthies.'

Making the round of the walls from the right, we see the monu-
ments of —

Captain Edward Cooke (1709), who captured the French frigate La Forte in the
Bay of Bengal, and died of his wounds— with a relief by Bacon, jvn.

General Sir George Holies (1G26), a figure in Roman armour, executed for £100
by Nicholas Stone, for the General's brother, John, Earl of Clare. On the base
is represented in relief the battle of Nieuport, in which Sir George distin-
guished himself. The advent of classical art may be recognised in this statue,
as the tomb of Sir F. Vere was the expiring effort of gothic.

Sir George Pocock (1793), the hero of Chandernagore. The tomb, by John
Bacon, supports an awkward figure of Britannia defiant.

(Above Pollock, moved from a pillar in the north transept and placed loo high
up), Grace Scot, 1645, wife of the regicide colonel cruelly executed at the ltestora-
tion. It bears the lines —

'He that will give my Grace but what is hers,
May say her death has not,
Made only her dear Scot,

But Virtue, Worth, and Sweetness, Widowers.'

Catherine Dormer, Lady St. John, Maid of Honour to Queen Elizabeth (1G14),
an effigy, restored to the vicinity of its original position in 1879 from the tomb
of Bishop Dudley, to which it was removed to make way for the Nightingale
monument.

*Lady Elizabeth Nightingale, daughter of the second Earl Ferrers, sister of
Selina, the famous Countess of Huntingdon, and wife of Joseph Gascoigne

1 Allan Cunningham's Life of Roubiliac.
2 Camden's Britannia. 8 See Fuller's Worthies.

Westminster

Nightingale of Mamhead in Devonshire. She died in 1731, and the monument,
erected 1758, is really to her husband, who died in 1752. This tomb, ' more
theatrical than sepulchral,' i is the last and greatest work of Roubiliac. The
skeleton figure of Death has burst open the iron doors of the grave, and is aim-
ing his dart at the lady, who shrinks back into the arms of her horror-stricken
husband, who is eagerly but vainly trying to defend her. In his fury,
Death has grasped the dart at the end by the feathers. Wesley said Mrs.
Nightingale's was the finest tomb in the Abbey, as showing 'common sense
among heaps of unmeaning stone and marble.'

' The dying woman would do honour to any artist. Her right arm and hand
are considered by sculptors as the perfection of fine workmanship. Life seems
slowly receding from her tapering fingers and her quivering wrist. Even Death
himself— dry and sapless though he be — the very fleshless cheeks and eyeless
sockets seem flashing with malignant joy.' — Allan Cunningham.

'It was whilst engaged on the figure of Death, that Roubiliac one day, at
dinner, suddenly dropped his knife and fork on his plate, fell back in his chair,
and then darted forwards, and threw his features into the strongest possible
expression of fear — fixing his eye so expressively on the country lad who waited,
as to fill him with astonishment. A tradition of the Abbey records that a robber,
coming into the Abbey by moonlight, was so startled by the same figure as to
have fled in dismay, and left his crowbar on the pavement.' — Dean Stanley.

Sarah, Duchess of Somerset (1692), daughter of Sir Edward Alston, afterwards
married to Henry Hare, second Lord Coleraine. Her figure half reclines upon a
sarcophagus. The two weeping charity boys at the sides typify her beneficence
in founding the Froxfield Almshouses in Wiltshire. Behind this tomb are the
remains of three out of the seven arches which formed the ancient reredos of St.
Michael's altar. The ancient altar-stone was discovered in 1872 and placed here.
At the entrance of St. Andrew's Chapel, one of the pillars (left) retains the original
polish of the thirteenth century (having been long enclosed in a screen), and may
be taken as an example of what all the Purbeck marble pillars were originally.

Theodore Phaliologus (1644), descended from the last Christian Emperors of
Greece, who bore the name of Palaeologus.

Mrs. Anne Kirton, 1603. A tomb inscribed Lacrimis struxit amor, spotted all
over with tear-drops f tiling from an eye above it.

John Philip Kemble (1823), represented as 'Cato' in a statue designed by
Flax man.

Dr. Thomas Young (1829), learned in Egyptian hieroglyphics— a tablet by

Chantrey.

Sir James Young Simpson (1870), who introduced the use of chloroform, buried
at Edinburgh — a bust by Brodie.

Sarah Siddons (1831), the great tragedian— a poor statue by Chantrey, erected
chiefly at the expense of Macready, which rises like a white discordant ghost
behind the Norris tomb.

Sir. Humphry Davy (1829), celebrated for his discoveries in physical science,
buried at Geneva — a tablet.

Matthew Baillie (1823), physician to George III., brother of the poetess Joanna
— a bust by Chantrey.

Thomas Telford (1834), who, the son of a shepherd, rose to eminence as an
engineer, and constructed the Menai Bridge and the Bridgwater Canal, but is
scarcely entitled to the space so unsuitably occupied by his huge ugly monument
by Daily.

Rear- Admiral Thomas Totty (1702) — a relief by the younger Bacon.

Anastasia, Countess of Kerry (1799). The monument bears an affecting in-
scription by her husband, 'whom she rendered during thirty-one years the
happiest of mankind.' He was laid by her side in 1818. By Buckham,

1 Walpole, Anecdotes of Painting.

St. John, St. Michael, and St. Andrew 63

Abbot Kyrton (1466), a slab in the pavement, which formerly bore a brass from
his tomb, which was destroyed under Anne. Kyrton erected the screen of St.
Andrew's Chapel.

Admiral Richard Kempenfelt (1782), who perished in the Royal George at Spit-
head—

' When Kempenfelt went down
With twice four hundred men.'

His body was washed ashore and buried at Alverstoke, near Gosport. The sink-
ing ship and the apotheosis of its admiral are represented on a column, by the
younger Bacon.

Algernon, Earl of Mountrath, and his Countess Diana. The monument is by
Joseph Wilton, the sculptor of Wolfe's memorial; but few will understand now
the tumult of applause with which it was received — 1 the grandeur and originality
of the design' being equally praised by contemporary critics, with the feathering
of the angels' wings, 'which had a lightness nature only can surpass.'

Sir John Franklin (1817), the Arctic explorer — a bust by Jsoble, with an
epitaph by Tennyson.

II. — ABBEY {continued)

WE now enter the North Transept of the Abbey, of which the
great feature is the beautiful rose- window (restored 1722),
thirty- two feet in diameter. This transept was utterly uninvaded
by monuments till the Duke of Newcastle was buried here in
1676. Since then it has become the favourite burial-place of
admirals ; and since Pitt, Earl of Chatham, was laid here in 1778,
the central aisle has been 'appropriated to statesmen, as the
other transept by poets.' The whole character of the Abbey monu-
ments is now changed; while the earlier tombs are intended to
recall Death to the mind, the memorials of the last two centuries
are entirely devoted to the exaltation of the Life of the person
commemorated. In this transept, especially, the entire space
between the grey arches is filled by huge monuments groaning
under pagan sculpture of offensive enormity, emulating the tombs
of the Popes in St. Peter's in their size, and curious as proving how
taste is changed by showing the popularity which such sculptors
as Nollekens, Scheemakers, and Bacon long enjoyed in England.
Through the remainder of the Abbey the monuments, often interest-
ing from their associations, are in themselves chiefly remarkable
for their utter want of originality and variety. Justice and Tem-
perance. Prudence and Mercy, are for ever busy propping up the
tremendous masses of masonry upon which Britannia, Fame, and
Victory are perpetually seen crowning a bust, an urn, or a rostral
column with their wreaths ; while beneath these piles sit figures
indicative of the military or naval professions of the deceased,
plunged in idiotic despair. As we continue our walk through the
church, we descend gradually but surely, after we leave the fine
conceptions and graphic portraiture of Eoubiliac and Kysbrach.
Even Bacon and Flaxman are weighed clown by the pagan mania
for Neptunes, Britannias, and Victorys, and only rise to anything
like nobility in the single figures of Chatham and Mansfield. The
abundant works of Chantrey and Westmacott in the Abbey are,
with one or two exceptions, monotonous and commonplace. But
it is only when utterly wearied by the platitudes of Nollekens or
Cheere, 1 that we appreciate what lower depths of degradation

i It would scarcely be believed from his works that Cheere was the master of
Roubiliac.

The North Transept

sculpture has reached in the once admired works of Taylor and
Nathaniel Read and in most of the works of Bird.

When he came back from Rome and saw his works in West-
minster Abbey, Roubiliac exclaimed, 'By God ! my own work looks
to me as meagre and starved as if made of nothing but tobacco-
pipes.'

We may notice among the monuments —

Sir Robert Peel, (1850) represented as an orator, in a Roman toga, by Gibson.

Vice- Admiral Sir Peter Warren (1752). The monument by Roubiliac is espe-
cially ridiculed in the 'Foundling Hospital for Wit.' It portrays a figure of
Hercules placing the bust of the deceased upon a pedestal. Navigation sits by
disconsolate, with a withered olive branch. Behind the tomb is seen the beau-
tiful screen of Abbot Kyrton.

Benjamin Disraeli, Earl of Beaconsfield (1881), twice Prime Minister— a statue
by Boehm.

Sir John Malcolm (1833) — statue by Chantrey. 'He who was always so kind,
always so generous, always so indulgent to the weaknesses of others, while he
was always endeavouring to make them better than they were,— he who was un-
wearied in acts of benevolence, ever aiming at the greatest, but never thinking
the least beneath his notice,— who could descend, without feeling that he sank,
from the command of armies and the government of an empire, to become a
peacemaker in village quarrels,— he in whom dignity was so gentle and wisdom
so playful, and whose laurelled head was girt with a chaplet of all the domestic
affections,— the soldier, statesman, patriot, Sir John Malcolm.'— J. C. Hare.

William, Cavendish, the 1 Loyall Duke of Newcastle' (1G7G), who lost £941,308 by
his devotion to the cause of Charles I., and his Duchess, Margaret Lucas (1074),
who, as her epitaph tells, came of ' a noble family, for all the brothers were valiant,
and all the sisters virtuous.' This Duchess, commemorated in 'Peveril of the
Peak,' was a most voluminous writer, calling up her attendants at all hours of the
night, 1 to take down her Grace's conceptions, much to the disgust of her hus-
band, who, when complimented on her learning, said, " Sir, a very wise woman
is a very foolish thing." ' Walpole calls her 1 a fertile pedant, with an unbounded
passion for scribbling.' She is, however, commemorated here as 1 a very wise,
wittie, and learned lady, which her many bookes do well testifie. She was a most
virtuous, and loving, and carefull wife, and was with her lord all the time of his
banishment and miseries, and when he came home never parted from him in his
solitary retirement.' ' The whole story of this lady,' wrote Pepys, ' is a romance,
and all she does is romantic' Conceit about her own works was certainly not
her fault, for she said, in writing to a friend—' You will find my works like in-
finite nature, that hath neither beginning nor end ; and as confused as the cha< »s,
wherein is neither method nor order, but all mixed together, without separation,
like light and darkness.'

The Duke was also an author, and wrote several volumes on horsemanship.
He is extolled by Shadwell as the 1 greatest master of wit, the most exact ob-
server of mankind, and the most accurate judge of humour' he ever knew.
Cibber speaks of him as ' one of the most finished gentlemen, as well as the most
distinguished patriot, general, and statesman of his age.' His liberality to lite-
rary men caused him to be regarded as ' the English M aecenas.' 1 1 Nothing,' says
Clarendon, 'could have tempted him out of those paths of pleasure which he
enjoyed in a full and ample fortune (which he sacrificed by his loyalty, and lived
for a time in extreme poverty), but honour and ambition to serve the king when
he saw him in distress, and abandoned by most of those who were in the highest
degree obliged to him.'

The Duke is represented in a coroneted periwig. The dress of the Duchess
recalls the description of Pepys, who met her (April 20, 1667) 'with her black
cap, her hair about her ears, many black patches, because of pimples about her
mouth, naked necked, without anything about it, and a black just an corps.'

1 Longbaine's Dramatick Poets.

Westminster

Her open book and the pen-case and ink-horn in her hand recall her passion for
authorship.

Stratford Canning, Viscount Stratford de Redcliffe (1880)— a statue by Boehm,
with some doggerel lines by Tennyson.

Charles, Earl Canning, Viceroy of India (1862) — a statue by Foley.

George Canning, the Prime Minister (1827)— a fine statue by Chantrcy.

John Holies, Earl of Clare and Duke of Newcastle (1711). He filled many public
offices during the reign of Queen Anne, and was created Duke on his marriage
with Margaret, daughter of the Duke William Cavendish who lies beside him
in St. John's Chapel. His enormous wealth caused him to be regarded as the
'richest subject that had been in the kingdom for some ages,' and his only daughter
and heiress, Henrietta Cavendish Holies Harley, bore witness to it with filial devo-
tion in this immense monument. The admirable architecture is by Gibbs, but the
ludicrous figure of the Duke is by Bird. The statues of Prudence and Sincerity
are said to have 1 set the example of the allegorical figures' in the Abbey, i

(Right of north entrance) Edward Vernon, Admiral of the White (1757). After
his capture of Porto Bello in November 1739, by which he was considered, in the
words of his epitaph, to have 1 conquered as far as naval force could carry victory,'
he became the popular hero of the day, and his birthday was kept with a public
illumination and bonfires all over London ; yet, only six years afterwards, he was
dismissed the service for exposing the abuses of the Navy in Parliament. The
monument, by Rysbrach, represents Fame crowning the bust of the Admiral : it
was erected by his nephew, Lord Orwell, in 1763.

(Left of north entrance) Sir Charles Wager, Admiral of the White (1743)— a
feeble monument by Scheemakers, representing Fame lamenting over a medallion
supported by an infant Hercules. The description of the Admiral given in the
epitaph is borne out by Walpole, who says, ' Old Sir Charles Wager is dead at
last, and has left the fairest character.'

William Pitt, Earl of Chatham (1778). The great statesman, who was seized
by his last illness in the House of Lords, was first buried at Hayes, but in a few
weeks was disinterred and brought to Westminster. ' Though men of all parties,'
says Macaulay, 2 1 had concurred in decreeing posthumous honours to Chatham,
his corpse was attended to the grave almost exclusively by opponents of the
Government. The banner of the lordship of Chatham was borne by Colonel
Barre, attended by the Duke of Richmond and Lord Rockingham. Burke,
Savile, and Dunning upheld the pall. Lord Camden was conspicuous in the pro-
cession. The chief mourner was young William Pitt.'

The colossal monument (thirty-three feet in height), by John Bacon, was erected
for the king and Parliament at a cost of £6000. Britannia triumphant is seated
upon a rock, with Earth and Ocean recumbent below. Above, on a sarcophagus,
are statues of Prudence and Fortitude; lastly, the figure of Lord Chatham, in his
parliamentary robes, starts from a niche in an attitude of declamation. It was
of this tomb that Cowper wrote—

' Bacon there
Gives more than female beauty to a stone,
And Chatham's eloquence to marble lips.'

The inscription, which is also by Bacon, drew forth the injunction of George
III., who, while approving it, said, 'Now, Bacon, mind you do not turn author;
stick to your chisel.' When Bacon was retouching the statue of Chatham, a
divine, and a stranger, tapped him on the shoulder, and said, in allusion to the
story of Zeuxis, 'Take care what you are doing, you work for eternity.' This
reverend person then stept into the pulpit and began to preach. When the
sermon was over, Bacon touched his arm and said, 1 Take care what you do, you
work for eternity.' — See Allan Cunningham.

1 In no other cemetery do so many great citizens lie within so narrow a space.
High over those venerable graves towers the stately monument of Chatham, and
from above, his effigy, graven by a cunning hand, seems still, with eagle face
and outstretched arm, to bid England be of good cheer, and to hurl defiance at

i Dean Stanley.

2 Essays.

The North Transept

her foes. The generation which reared that memorial of him has disappeared.
The time has come when the rash and indiscriminate judgments which his
contemporaries passed on his character may be calmly revised by history. And
history, while, for the warning of vehement, high, and daring natures, she notes his
many errors, will yet deliberately pronounce, that, among the eminent men
whose bones lie near his, scarcely one has left a more stainless, and none a more
splendid name.' — Macaulay.

Henry Grattan (1820), the eloquent advocate of the rights of Ireland, lies
buried in front of Chatham's monument, near the graves of Pitt, Fox, Castle-
reagh, Wilberforce, the two Cannings, and Palmerston. Pitt and Fox died in the
same year, and are buried close together.

Here— 'taming thought to human pride—

The mighty chiefs sleep side by side.

Drop upon Fox's grave the tear,

'Twill trickle to his rival's bier ;

O'er Pitt's the mournful requiem sound,

And Fox's shall the notes rebound.

The soleYnn echo seems to cry—

"Here let their discord with them die.

Speak not for those a separate doom

Whom Fate made brothers in the tomb." '

Scott's * Marmion,' Intr. to Canto i.
1 1 saw the obsequies of Fox, a walking funeral from Stable Yard, St. James's,
by Pall Mall and Charing Cross, lines of volunteers cn haie, keeping the ground.
I recollect the Whig Club among the followers, and a large body of the electors
of Westminster, with the Cabinet Council, but no royalty, for which some kind
of excuse was made. Literally the tears of the crowd incensed the bier of Fox.
The affection of the people was extraordinary ; I saw men crying like children.'
— Cyrus Redding, * Fifty Years' Reminiscences.'

Henry John Temple, Viscount Palmerston (18G5) — a statue by Jackson, erected
by Parliament. Lady Palmerston rests in the same grave.

'The Three Captains' — William Bayne, William Blair, and Lord Robert
Manners, who fell in 1782 mortally wounded in naval engagements in the West
Indies under Admiral Rodney. In the colossal tomb by Nollekens (next to that
of Watt, the most offensive in the Abbey), Neptune, reclining on the back of a
seahorse, directs the attention of Britannia to the medallions of the dead, which
hang from a rostral column surmounted by a figure of Victory.

'Is that Christianity?' asked a visitor, pointing to Neptune and the trident.
'Yes,' wittily answered Dean Milman, 'it is Tridentinc Christianity.' —
F. W. Farrar.

Robert, Viscount Castlereagh, second Marquis of Londonderry (1822)— a statue
by Oiven Thomas, erected by his successor to ' the best of brothers and friends.'

William Murray, Earl of Mansfield (1793), the ' silver-tongued Murray ' of Pope,
who, ' from the love which he bore to the place of his early education, desired
to be buried in this cathedral (privately).' This huge monument was erected by
funds left for the purpose by A. Bailey of Lyons Inn. The noble statue, by
Flaxman, is taken from a picture by Sir J. Reynolds. It is supported by the
usual allegorical figures. Behind, at the foot of the pedestal, is the figure of a
condemned criminal.

'The statue of Mansfield is calm, simple, severe, and solitary— he sits alone,
" above all pomp, all passion, and all pride ; " and there is that in his look which
would embolden the innocent and strike terror to the guilty. The figure of the
condemned youth is certainly a fine conception; hope has forsaken him, and
already in his ears is the thickening hum of the multitude, eager to see him make
his final account with time. This work raised high expectations. Banks said
when he saw it, "This little man cuts us all out." '—Allan Cunningham.

' Where Murray, long enough his country's pride,
Shall be no more than Tully or than Hyde.' — Pope.
'Lord Mansfield's is a character above all praise— the oracle of law, the
standard of eloquence, and the pattern of all virtue, both in public and private
life. — Bishop Neivton.

Westminster

'His parliamentary eloquence never blazed into sudden flashes of dazzling
brilliancy ; but its clear, placid, and mellow splendour was never for an instant
overclouded. ... In the House of Peers, Chatham's utmost vehemence and
pathos produced less effect than the moderation, the reasonableness, the luminous
order, and the serene dignity, which characterised the speeches of Lord Mans-
field.' — Macaulay's Essays.

(Turning round the Screen of monuments) Sir William Webb Follet (1845),
Attorney-General — a statue by Bchnes.

George Gordon, fourth Earl of Aberdeen (1860), Prime Minister — a bust by
Noble.

*Mrs. Elizabeth Warren (181G), wife of the Bishop of Bangor. Her charities are
typified by the lovely figure of a beggar girl holding a baby — one of the best
works of Richard Westmacott.

Sir George Cornewall Lewis (1863), buried at Old Radnor, Chancellor of the
Exchequer and Secretary of State— a bust by Weekes.

General Sir Eyre Coote (1783), who expelled the French from the coasts of
Coromandel and defeated the forces of Hyder Ali. In the huge and hideous
monument by Thomas Banks, Victory is represented as hanging the medallion of
the hero upon a trophy : the mourning Mahratta captive and the little elephant
in front recall the scene of his actions. 1 The Mahratta captive is praised by
artists for its fine anatomy, and by sculptors for its finer expression.' *

Charles Butter (1848), buried at Kensal Green, who ' united the deepest human
sympathies with wise and philosophic views of government and mankind, and
pursued the noblest political and social objects, above party spirit and without
an enemy. ' A bust by Weekes.

Francis Horner (1817), 'the founder of our modern economical and financial
policy '—a statue by Chantrey.

Brigadier-General Hope (1789), Lieutenant-Governor of Quebec— monument by
Bacon.

Warren Hastings (181S), Governor of Bengal. He was buried at his home of
Daylesford, though — ' with all his faults, and they were neither few nor small —
only one cemetery was worthy to contain his remains. In that temple of silence
and reconciliation where the enmities of twenty generations lie buried, in the
great Abbey which has during many ages afforded a quiet resting-place to those
whose minds and bodies have been shattered by the contentions of the great
Hall, the dust of the illustrious accused should have mingled with the dust of
the illustrious accusers.' 2 A monument by Bacon, jun.

Jonas Hanway (1786), 'the friend and father of the poor,' best known as the
first person in England who carried an umbrella. He wrote some interesting
accounts of his foreign travels, and then published a dull journal of an Eng-
lish tour. ' Jonas,' says Dr. Johnson, 'acquired some reputation by travelling
abroad, but lost it all by travelling at home.' The monument has a medallion
by Moore.

Sir Herbert Edwardes (1868), the hero of the Punjab — a bust by Theed.

Richard Cobden (1805), distinguished by his efforts for the repeal of the corn
laws, buried at West Lavington — a bust by Woolner.

George Montagu Dunk, Earl of Halifax (1771), Secretary of State, who ' contri-
buted so largely to the commerce and splendour of America as to be styled the
Father of the Colonies.' The capital of Nova Scotia takes its name from him.
A monument by J ohn Bacon.

Sir Henry Maine (1888), a medallion by Boehm.

Vice-Admiral Charles Watson (1757), — buried at Calcutta, — who delivered the
prisoners in the Black Hole of Calcutta. A frightful monument by Schecmakers,
erected by the East India Company.

1 Allan Cunningham

2 Macaulay's Essays.

The North Transept

Sir William Sanderson (167G), the adulatory historian of Mary Stuart, James I.,
and Charles I. ; and his wife Dame Bridget—' mother of the Maids of Honour to
the Queen-mother, and to her Majesty that now is.' The monument is supported
by figures of Wisdom and Justice.

(West wall) General Joshua Guest (1747),— buried in the East Cloister, — 1 who
closed a service of sixty years by faithfully defending Edinburgh Castle against
the rebels in 1745.' A monument and bust by R. Taylor.

Sir John Balchen (1744), Admiral of the White, Commander-in-Chief, lost on
board the Victory in a violent storm in the Channel, 'from which sad circum-
stance,' says the epitaph, 'we may learn that neither the greatest skill, judg-
ment, nor experience, joined to the most pious, unshaken resolution, can resist
the fury of the winds and waves.' The monument, by Scheemakers, bears a relief
representing the shipwreck.

John Warren, Bishop of Bangor (1S00)-— a monument by R. Westmacott.

Lord Aubrey Beauclerk (1740), killed in a naval engagement under Admiral
Vernon off the Spanish coast— a monument by Scheemakers.

' Sweet were his manners, as his soul was great,
And ripe his worth, though immature his fate.
Each tender grace that joy and love inspire
Living, he mingled with his martial fire ;
Dying, he bid Britannia's thunder roar,
And Spain still felt him when he breathed no more.'

(The window above this tomb commemorates the loss of II. M.S. Captain, Sept,
7, 1870.)

General Percy Kirk (1741), and his wife Diana Dormer of Rousham — a
monument by Scheemakers.

Sir Richard Kane (1736), distinguished in the wars of William III. and Anne,
and for his defence of Gibraltar for George I. He was rewarded by George II.
with the Governorship of Minorca, where he is buried. A monument by
Rysbrach, with a fine bust.

Samuel Bradford (1731), Bishop of Rochester, 'praesul humillimus, human-
issimus, et vere evangelicus.' A monument by Cheere.

Hugh Boulter, Bishop of Bristol, who 'was translated to the Archbishopric of
Armagh (1723), and from thence to heaven ' (1742). Monument by Cheer*'.

Entering the North Aisle of the Choir, the x Aisle of the Musician?,'
we find —

(Left wall) Sir Thomas Fowell Buxton (1845), the philanthropist, chielly known
from his exertions in the cause of Prison Discipline, and for the suppression of
suttee in India. A statue by Thrupp.

' Sir Fowell Buxton's great merit as a public man consisted in his industry, his
energy, and his straightforward honesty of purpose, lie was always favourably
heard, not only because he was the acknowledged head of the religious party,
but because his statements were stamped with authority : they were well known
and felt to be true, and they were put forward with a manner and perspicuity
which essentially belong to truth.' — Obituary Notice in the Lond, dent. Mag.,
1845.

Sir Thomas Hesketh (1605), an eminent lawyer of the time of Elizabeth. A
handsome monument of the period, with a reclining figure. Juliana, Lady
Hesketh, was formerly represented here kneeling at a desk.

Michael William Balfe (1870) — a medallion.

Hugh Chamberlen (1728), an eminent physician and benefactor to the science
of midwifery, on which he published many works. His monument, by Schee-
makers and Delvaux, was erected for Edmund Sheffield, last Duke of Bucking-

Westminster

hamshire, and his elaborate epitaph is by Atterbury, whom he visited in the
Tower. At the time of its erection this was considered 1 one of the best pieces
in the Abbey ' ! i

(In front of Chamberlen's tomb is the fine brass of Dr. J. H. Monk, Bishop of
Gloucester and Bristol, sometime Canon of this church.)

Samuel Arnold (1802), the composer, and organist of the Abbey — a tablet.

Henry Purcett (1695), composer and organist— a tablet. The epitaph, by Lady
Elizabeth Howard, the wife of Dryden, tells how he is 'gone to that blessed
place where only his harmony can be exceeded.' The air, 'Britons, strike home,'
is one of the best known of Purcell's productions.

Sir Stamford Baffles (1826), Governor of Java and first President of the
Zoological Society of London— a statue by Chantrey.

Almeric de Courcy, Lord Kinsale (1719), who commanded a troop of horse
under James II. His epitaph tells how he was ' descended from the famous John
de Courcy, Earl of Ulster, who, in the reign of King John, in consideration of his
great valour, obtained that extraordinary privilege to him and his heirs of being
covered before the king.'

* William Wilbei force (1833), 'whose name will ever be specially identified with
those exertions which, by the blessing of God, removed from England the guilt
of the African slave trade. The Peers and Commons of England, with the Lord
Chancellor and the Speaker at their head, carried him to his fitting place among
the mighty dead around.' A statue by Joseph, perhaps the most characteristic
modern statue in the Abbey.

The grave of Sterndale Bennett (1875), the first composer who removed the
prejudice of the Germans against English music ; celebrated for his oratorio of
' The Woman of Samaria.'

Sir Thomas Duppa (1694), who waited upon Charles II. when Prince of Wales,
and after the Restoration was made Usher of the Black Rod.

Lord John Thynne (1880), long Canon and Sub-Dean of Westminster— a sleeping
figure by Armstead.

Dame Elizabeth Carteret (1717). Above are inscriptions to the different mem-
bers of the Greville family buried in the tomb of their relative, Monk, Duke of
Albemarle.

Turning to the Eight Wall we find —

Dr. John Blow (1708), organist and composer, the master of Purcell. A canon
in four parts with the music is seen beneath the tablet.

' Challenged by James II. to make an anthem as good as that of one of the
King's Italian composers, Blow by the next Sunday produced "I beheld, and lo,
a great multitude ! " The King sent the Jesuit, Father Peter, to acquaint him
that he was well pleased with it; "but," added Peter, "I myself think it too
long." "That," replied Blow, "is the opinion of but one fool, and I heed it
not." This quarrel was, happily, cut short by the Revolution of 1688.'— Dean
Stanley.

Charles Burney (1814), the friend of Dr. Johnson, and father of Madame
d'Arblay, as author of the 'History of Music' appropriately placed amongst the
musicians— a tablet. ' Dr. Burney gave dignity to the character of the modern
musician by joining to it that of the scholar and philosopher.' 2

William Croft (1727), composer and organist. ' Ad coelitum demigravit chorum,
praesentior angelorum concentibus suum additurus Hallelujah.' A tablet and
bust.

Temple West, Admiral of the White (1757), the son-in-law of Balchen, celebrated
for his victories over the French. A bust erected by his widow, ' daughter of
the brave, unfortunate Balchen.'

Richard Le Neve, who was killed while commanding the Edgar, in the Dutch
wars, 1673.

i Strype,

2 Sir William Jones.

The North Transept

(Above the last) Sir George Staunton (1801), who concluded the treaty with
Tippoo Sahib in 1784— monument by Chantrey.

Peter Heylin (16G2), the independent Canon of Westminster, who defied Dean
Williams from the pulpit. He published many now forgotten theological,
political, and historical works. He was ousted from his canonry by the Common-
wealth, but returned at the Restoration, and was buried under the seat which
he occupied as sub-dean, in accordance witli his own desire, for he related that
on the night before he was seized with his last illness he dreamed that 'his
late Majesty' Charles I. appeared to him and said, 'Peter, I will have you buried
under your seat in church, for you are rarely seen but there or at your study.'

Charles Agar, Earl of Normanton and Archbishop of Dublin (1809) — a monu-
ment by Bacon.

We now enter the Nave (length 166 ft. ; breadth, with aisles, 71
ft. 9 in.)

In the pavement, the gravestone of Sir John Herschel, the astronomer (1871).
'Filius unicus "coelis exploratis" hie prope Newtonum requiescit.' Also the
grave of Charles Robert Darwin (1882), the famous biologist.

(First Arch) Philip Carteret (1710), son of Lord George Carteret, who died a
Westminster scholar. A figure of Time bears a scroll with some pretty Sapphic
verses by Dr. Freind, then second master of the school. Monument by Da rid.

(Third Arch) Dr. Richard Mead (1754), the famous physician, who refused to
prescribe for Sir R. Walpole till Dr. John Freind was released from the Tower.
He 'lived more in the broad sunshine of life than almost any man,' 1 being for
nearly half a century at the head of his profession, and attended Sir I. Newton
on his deathbed. He was a great collector of books and pictures, and is extolled
by Dibdin 2 as the 'ever-renowned Richard Mead, whose pharmacopoeial reputa-
tion is lost in the blaze of his bibliomaniacal glory.' Pope speaks of—

Mead is buried in the Temple Church. His monument here has a bust by
Scheemakers.

Spencer Perceval, Chancellor of the Exchequer (1812), assassinated in the lobby
of the House of Commons by Bellingham. His recumbent effigy, with figures of
Truth and Temperance at his feet, lies in a window too high up to be examined.
A bas-relief represents the murder. The monument is by Richard Westmacott.

Against the choir screen are two large monuments —

(Left) Sir Isaac Newton (1727), the author of the ' Principia,' ana the greatest
philosopher of which any age can boast, whom his friends called 'the whitest soul
they had ever known.' His body, after lying in state in the Jerusalem Chamber,
was carried in state to the grave, his pall being borne by the Lord Chancellor
and such dukes and earls as were Fellows of the Royal Society. For his tomb,
by Rysbrach, though it was never placed there, Pope wrote the inscription—

' Isaacus Newton us,
Quern Immortalem
Testantur Tempus, Natura, Coelum :
Mortalem
Hoc marmor fatetur.'

' Nature and Nature's laws lay hid in night ;
God said, Let Newton be, and all was light.' 4

The grave beneath the monument bears the words—' Hie depositum est quod
mortale fuit Isaaci Newtoni.'

' No one ever left knowledge in a state so different from that in which he found
it. Men were instructed not only in new truths, but in new methods of dis-

' E,are monkish manuscripts for Hearne alone,
And books for Mead, and butterflies for Sloane.' 3

i Boswell's Jolinson.

3 Moral Essays, Epist. 4.

2 Bibliomania, ed. 1842, 304.
4 Pope.

Westminster

covering old truth : they were made acquainted with the great principle which
connects together the most distant regions of space as well as the most remote
periods of duration, and which was to lead to further discoveries far beyond what
the wisest or most sanguine could anticipate.' — Dr. Play/air, 1 Prelim. Dissert.'

'In Isaac Newton two kinds of intellectual power, which have little in
common, and which are not often found together in a very high degree of vigour,
but which, nevertheless, are equally necessary in the most sublime departments
of physics, were united as they have never been united before or since. There
may have been minds as happily constituted as his for the cultivation of pure
mathematical science ; there may have been minds as happily constituted for
the cultivation of science purely experimental ; but in no other mind have the
demonstrative faculty and the inductive faculty co-existed in such supreme
excellence and perfect harmony. ' — Macaulay, 'Hist, of England, ' chap. iii.

(Right of entrance) James, Earl Stanhope (1721), Chancellor of Exchequer and
Secretary of State. The second and third Earls Stanhope are commemorated on
the same monument, which was designed by Kent and executed by Rysbrach.
A few words are added to commemorate Philip Henry, fifth Earl (1875), the
historian of the reign of Queen Anne, the biographer of Pitt, and founder of the
National Portrait Gallery. All the Earls Stanhope are buried at Chevening.

Following the North Aisle we may notice —

(Fourth Arch) Jane Hill (1631). A curious small black effigy, interesting as
the only ancient monument in the nave.

Mrs. Mary Beaufoy (1705). The monument is interesting as the work of
Grinling Gibbons — his one work in the Abbey.

(Fifth Arch) Thomas Banks, the sculptor (1805), buried at Paddington.

(In front of Banks) Sir Robert T. Wilson (1849) and his wife. A modern brass.
He is represented in plate-armour ; his children are beneath.

John Hunter (1793), the famous anatomist, moved by the members of the
College of Surgeons from his first burial-place at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields.
A brass.

Moved from the pavement to the wall, close to the monument of Banks, is a
small square stone bearing the words ' 0 Rare Ben Johnson.' 1 He was buried
here standing upright, in accordance with the favour — ' eighteen inches of square
ground in Westminster Abbey' — which he had asked from Charles I., having
died in great poverty. The inscription, says Aubrey, ' was done at the charge of
Jack Young [of Great Milton, afterwards knighted], who, walking here when
the grave was covering, gave the fellow eighteenpence to cut it.'

1 His name can never be forgotten, having by his own good learning, and the
severity of his nature and manners, very much reformed the stage, and indeed
the English poetry itself.' — Clarendon.

(Beyond the grave of Wilson) Sir Charles Lyell (1875), who 'throughout a long
and laborious life sought the means of deciphering the fragmentary records of
the world's history.'

(Sixth Arch) Dr. John Woodward (1728), Professor of Physic at Gresham
College, author of many geological works, and founder of the geological pro-
fessorship at Cambridge. His medallion is by Scheemakers.

' Who Nature's treasures would explore,

Her mysteries and arcana know,
Must high with lofty Newton soar,
Must stoop as delving Woodward low. '

Dr. Richard Bentley.

Captains Harvey and Hutt, who fell off Brest, on board their ships the Bruns-
wick and Queen (1794). An enormous and ugly monument by the younger
Bacon. It represents Britannia decorating their urn with wreaths.

i He is so called on the gravestone.

The Nave

(Seventh Arch) General Stringer Lawrence (1775) — a monument by Tayler,
erected by the East India Company in honour of the conquest of Pondicherry
and the relief of Trichinopoly. The latter city is seen in a relief.

At the North- West Corner — ' the Whigs' Corner ' — are the monu-
ments of —

Charles James Fox (180G), who died at Chiswick, and is buried in the North
Transept. The great statesman and orator is represented as a half-naked figure
sprawling into the arms of Liberty in a monument, by Westmacott, erected by
his private friends. The figure of the negro which recalls the abolition of the
slave trade was so much admired by Canova that he was wont to say that
neither in England nor out of England had he seen any work which surpassed it.

Captain James Montagu (1794), killed off Brest. The huge monument by
Flaxman has a relief of the battle. The lions, so utterly wanting in life and
likeness, were greatly admired at the time of their execution. Compare them
with the lions by Landseer !

Sir James Mackintosh (1832), 'jurist, philosopher, historian, statesman,' buried
at Hampstead. The monument is by Theed.

George Tierney (1830), long the leader of the Whig party in the House of
Commons, famous for his sarcasm. Monument by R. Westmacott.

Henry Petty, second Marquis of Lansdowne (18G3)— a bust by Boehm.

Henry It. Vassal Fox, third Lord Holland (1840), nephew of the statesman,
well known as a literary Maecenas. A huge monument by Baily, representing
'the Prison-house of Death,' bearing a bust, but with no word of inscription to
indicate whom it is intended to honour.

John, Earl Russell (1878), buried at Chenies— a bust by Boehm.

Sir Richard Fletcher (1813), killed at the storming of St. Sebastian— monu-
ment by Baily.

James Rennell (1830), the Asiatic and African geographer, buried far up the
centre of the nave— a bust by Hagbolt.

Zachary Macaulay (1838), (father of the historian, buried at the cemetery in
Brunswick Square), who fought by the side of Wilberforce in the Anti-Slavery
movement, and ' conferred freedom on eight hundred thousand slaves ' — a bust by
Weekes.

General Charles Gordon, murdered at Khartoum (1885)- a bronze bus f .

West Wall-
Anthony Ashley Cooper, Earl of Shaftesbury (I88f)), the philanthropist — a
statue by Boehm.

John Conduitt (1737), Master of the Mint, nephew and successor of Sir Isaac
Newton, whose monument is opposite. The tomb is by Cheere. In the cornice
an inscription is inserted commemorative of Jeremiah Horrocks (Curate of Hoole
in Lancashire), who invented the micrometer, who first appreciated the dis-
coveries of Kepler, who was the first actual observer (Dec. 4, 103!)) of a transit of
Venus, 1 which he had correctly prophesied ; and who first explained the lunar
motion by the supposition of an elliptic orbit : he died 1041, aged 22.

(Over the west door) William Pitt (1806), Chancellor of the Exchequer. He is
represented in the act of declamation, with History recording his words, and
Anarchy writhing at his feet.

(Beyond door) Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy (1732), distinguished in the naval
wars of Queen Anne— monument by Cheere.

(Outside Baptistery) Sir George Comewall (1743), killed in battle while com-
manding the Marlborough off Toulon, in honour of which Parliament voted this
enormous monument by Taylor, in which the whole sea-tight is represented.

i This was between his church services, and he left the sight forjiis clerical
duties— 'ad majora avocatus quae ob haec ndpepya negligi non decuit.'

Westminster

The stained glass of the west window (Moses, Aaron, and the
Patriarchs) was executed in the reign of George II. It is from
this end of the Minster that its long aisles are seen in the full glory
of their aerial perspective.

*■ The Abbey Church is beheld as a rare structure, with so small and slender
pillars (greatest legs argue not the strongest man) to support so weighty a
fabrick.' — Fuller's ' Worthies.'

' The door is closed — but soft and deep
Around the awful arches sweep
Such airs as soothe a hermit's sleep.
From each carved nook and fretted bend
Cornice and gallery seem to send
Tones that with seraph hymns might blend.
Three solemn parts together twine
In harmony's mysterious line ;
Three solemn aisles approach the shrine :
Yet all are one — together all,
In thoughts that awe but not appal,
Teach the adoring heart to fall.'— John Keble.

Behind Cornewall's tomb is the Baptistery, which Dean Stanley
used to call ' Little Poet's Corner.' It contains —

(At the back of Cornewall's tomb) Hon. James Craggs (1720), (son of James
Craggs, Postmaster-General). As Secretary of State his conciliatory manners
caused him to be universally honoured and beloved. Pope, who was his devoted
friend, took the greatest interest in the progress and erection of his statue,
which is by the Italian sculptor Guelfi, and he wrote the epitaph, so severely
criticised by Dr. Johnson—

' Statesman, yet friend to truth ! of soul sincere,

In action faithful, and in honour clear !

Who broke no promise, serv'd no private end ;

Who gain'd no title, and who lost no friend ;

Ennobled by himself, by all approv'd,

Praised, wept, and honour'd, by the Muse he lov'd.

Unfortunately the fair fame of Craggs was not untarnished after his death,
which was nominally caused by the small-pox, but is supposed to have been
really due to the anxiety he underwent during the Parliamentary Inquiry into
the South Sea Swindle, in the subscription list of which his name was down for
the fictitious sum of £330,000.

William Wordsworth (1850), the poet, buried at Grasmere— a feeble statue by
Lough.

John ' Keble (1866), author of ' The Christian Year,' buried at Hursley— a feeble
monument with a bust by Woolner.

Henry Fawcett (1884), statesman and politician, buried at Trumpington— a
poor monument by Gilbert.

Frederick Denison Maurice (1872), preacher, buried at Highgate— a bust by
Woolner.

Matthew Arnold (1888), the poet and essayist, buried at Laleham— a bust by
Bruce Joy.

Charles Kingsley (1875), divine and novelist, buried at Eversley— a bust by
Woolner.

Here also is buried, without a monument, the famous Jacobite Dean, Atter-
bury, Bishop of Rochester (1732), the brilliant controversial writer and orator.
His devotion to the cause of the Stuarts led to his being committed to the Tower
under George I., and, soon after, to his banishment. He died at Paris, and was
privately interred, as he desired, ' as far from kings and kaisers as the space will
admit of.'

The Nave

The north door of the Baptistery is supposed to have been intended
for the escape of the evil spirits there exorcised ; and the gargoyles
outside to represent the misery of the expelled demons.

On entering the South Aisle of the Nave, we see above us the oak
gallery opening from the Deanery, whence the royal family have
been accustomed to watch processions in the Abbey. We may
notice the monuments of —

(Above the door leading to the Deanery and Jerusalem Chamber) Henry
Wharton (1695), the favourite chaplain of Archbishop Sancroft, author of many
works on ecclesiastical history. 'His early death was deplored by men of all
parties as an irreparable loss to letters.' 1 Archbishop Tenison attended his funeral,
and an anthem, composed for the "occasion by Purcell, was sung over his grave.

'He had not exceeded his thirtieth year, when he sank under his continued
studies, and perished a martyr to literature.'— Disraeli.

William Congreve (1728), the licentious dramatist, so grossly extolled by
Dryden in the lines —

'Heaven, that but once was prodigal before,
To Shakspeare gave as much, he could not give him more.'

The monument, with a medallion by Bird, was ' sett up by Henrietta, Duchess
of Marlborough, as a mark how dearly she remembers the happiness and honour
she enjoyed in the friendship of so worthy and honest a man.' 'Happiness per-
haps, but not honour,' said the old Duchess Sarah when she heard of the epitaph ;
but the Duchess Henrietta, to whom Congreve had bequeathed £7000, which she
spent in a diamond necklace,- carried her adulation farther than this stone, for
she had an ivory statue of Congreve, ' to which she would talk as to the living
Mr. Congreve, with all the freedom of the most polite and unreserved conversa-
tion,' which moved by clockwork, upon her table, and she had also a wax figure
of him, whose feet were blistered and anointed by her doctors, as Congreve's had
been when he was attacked by the gout. 3

Near the monument of Congreve, Mrs. Anne Oldfield, the actress, was buried
with the'iitmost pomp in 1730, ' in a very fine Brussels lace head, a holland shift
with a tucker, and double rulHes of the same hue, a pair of new kid gloves,
and her body wrapped up in a winding-sheet.' To this Pope alludes in the lines —

'Odious, in woollen ! 'twould a saint provoke
(Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke)
No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace
Dress my cold limbs, and shade my lifeless face :
One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead —
And— Betty, give this cheek a little red.'

Dr. John Freind (1728), the eminent physician, who was imprisoned in the
Tower for his friendship with Atterbury, and released by the influence of Dr.
Mead with Sir R. Walpole. He is buried at Hitch in. The monument here hag
a bust by Rysbrach and an epitaph by Samuel Wesley.

Thomas Sprat (1713), Bishop of Rochester, the Royalist Dean of Westminster,
who refused to allow the name of the regicide Milton to appear in the Abbey.
He sought to be a poet, and is spoken of by Pope as 'a worse Cowley.' His son
Thomas, Archdeacon of Rochester, is commemorated with him on this monu-
ment by Bird, which was erected by Dr. John Freind.

' Unhappily for his fame, it has been usual to print his verses in collections of
the British poets ; and those who judge of him by his verses must consider him
as a servile imitator, who, without one spark of Cowley's admirable genius,
mimicked whatever was least commendable in Cowley's manner : but those who
are acquainted with Sprat's prose writings will form a very different estimate of
his powers. He was, indeed, a great master of our language, and possessed at

1 Macaulay, Hist, of England.

2 Dr. Young, in Spence's Anecdotes.

3 See Macaulay's Essays.

Westminster

once the eloquence of the preacher, of the controversialist, and of the historian.'

—M acaulay's Hist, of England.

Joseph Wilcocks (1756), Dean of Westminster. Under this Dean the much-
abused western towers of the Abbey were erected. They are triumphantly ex-
hibited on his monument by CJtcere, and he is buried under the south-west tower.
It was his son whose character and conduct elicited for him from Pope Clement
XIII. the title of 'Blessed Heretic.

(Above these) Admired Richard Tyrrell (1700), an immense monument like a
nightmare, till recently closed three parts of the window. The Admiral, who
was a nephew of the Sir Peter Warren whose tomb is in the north transept,
was distinguished when commanding the Buckingham against the French. He
died and was buried at sea. Nathaniel Bead, a pupil of Roubiliac, here repre-
sented his ascent— a naked figure— from the waves to heaven. Beneath are, in
wild confusion, the coralline depths of the sea, a number of allegorical figures,
and the Buckingham, jammed into a rock. This monument was partially de-
stroyed in 1882, and the figure unjustifiably removed.

Zachary Pearce (1774), Bishop of Rochester, and the Dean of Westminster
who proposed to remove the glorious tomb of Aylmer de Valence to set up the
cenotaph of General Wolfe.i He is buried at Bromley. The monument here
has a bust by Tyler.

William Buckla7id (1856), the geologist Dean of Westminster — a bust by
Weekes. .

Mrs. Katherine Bovey (1724) — a monument by Gibbs the architect, erected by
Mrs. Mary Pope, who lived with her nearly forty years in perfect friendship—
with an astonishing epitaph. These friends were the ' Perverse Widow ' and her
'Malicious Confident' of Sir Roger de Coverley.2

John Thomas (1793), Dean of Westminster and Bishop of Rochester— a bust
by Bacori, ju?i., from a portrait by Sir J. Beynolds.

(Above) John Ireland (1713), Dean of Westminster and founder of the Ireland
Scholarships — a bust by Ternouth. (Over these, in the window) Gen. Viscount
Howe (1758), killed on the march to Ticonderoga. In the monument, by Schee-
makers, the genius of Massachusetts Bay sits disconsolate at the foot of an
obelisk bearing the arms of the deceased.

John Laird Mair, Lord Lawrence (1879), ' who feared man so little, because he
feared God so much '—a bust by Woolner.

' Here let him sleep, where they too are at rest,

Who help'd him stay our empire when it reel'd —
Clyde, Pollock, Outram — kings of men confest,
He chief in council, as these chief in field.

A simple-manner'd, rude, and rugged man,
But true, and wise, and merciful, and just ;

Of all these monuments, when all we scan,
Which rises o'er more justly honoured dust ?'

Punch , July 12, 1879.

Opposite these, in the Nave, are a group of interesting grave-
stones, viz. —

Richard Chenevix Trench (1886), the poet Dean, afterwards Archbishop of
Dublin.

Thomas Tompion (1713), mechanician, and George Graham (1751), early English
watchmakers.

David Livingstone (1873), the missionary, traveller, and philanthropist, whose
body was brought from the centre of Africa. On the grave are recorded the last

1 See Walpole's Letters.

2 S'pectator, IN o. 113. Mrs. Pope erected another monument to her friend at
Flaxley.

The Nave

Words he wrote in his diary—' All I can add in my solitude is, may Heaven's rich
blessing come down on every one, American, English, or Turk, who will help to
heal this open sore of the world'— i.e. the slave trade.

Robert Stephenson (1859), the famous engineer— a brass

Sir Charles Barry (1860), the architect— a brass.

Sir Gilbert Scott, the architect (1878).

George Edmund Street (1881), architect of the Law Courts.
Sir George Pollock (1872), Constable of the Tower.
Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde (1863), who recaptured Lucknow.
Thomas Cochrane, tenth Earl of Dundonald (1860).

Returning to the South Aisle, beginning from the Cloister door,
we see —

General George Wade (1748), celebrated for his military roads ; commemorated
in the distich —

' If you'd seen these roads before they were made,
You'd hold up your hands and bless General Wade.

The monument— in which Time, endeavouring to overthrow the memory of
the dead (a memorial pillar), is repelled by Fame— is a disgrace to RoubUiac,
who nevertheless used to come and stand before this, which he considered his
best work, weeping that it was placed too high.

Sir James Outram (1863), ' the Bayard of India'— a bust by Noble.

Colonel Charles llerries (1819)— a monument by Chantrey.

Carola Morland (1674) and Anne Norland (1680). Two monuments to the
two wives of Sir Samuel Morland, secretary of Oliver Cromwell, who wrote the
'History of the Evangelical Churches of Piedmont. 1 He is regarded as the
inventor of the speaking-trumpet and fire-engine. He has displayed his learn-
ing here in inscriptions in Hebrew, Creek, Ethiopic, and English.

General James Fleming (1750)— a monument by Roubiliac.

Sir Charles Harboard and Clement Cottrell (1672), friends who perished with
the Earl of Sandwich in the Royal James, destroyed by a lire-ship in a naval en-
gagement with the Dutch oft* the coast of Suffolk.

(Over the last) William Ha rgi -arc (1750), Governor of Gibraltar. On the monu-
ment Hargrave is seen rising from the tomb, while Time has overthrown Death,
and is breaking his dart. A much-extolled work of Roubiliac } who repeats here
the skeleton which appears on Mr. Nightingale's tomb.

Sidney, Earl of Godolphin (1712), 1 Prime Minister during the first nine
glorious years of the reign of Queen Anne.' Burnet speaks of him as 'the
silentest and modestest man that was perhaps ever bred in a court.' The monu-
ment, by Bird, was erected by his daughter-in-law, Henrietta Godolphin.

Colonel Roger Townshend (1759), killed at Ticonderoga in North America.
The architecture of the monument is by R. Adam, the architect, the relief by
Echstein.

Sir Palmes Fairborne (1680), Governor of Tangier, where he is buried. The
monument is by T. Bushnell, the epitaph by Dryden.

Major John Andre (1780). who during the American war was hanged as a spy
by Washington, in spite of the pathetic petition that he would 'adapt the mode
of his death to his feelings as a man of honour.' He was buried under the
gallows near the River Hudson, but in 1821 his remains were honourably restored
by the Americans, on the petition of the Duke of York. The monument, erected
on the command and at the expense of George III. by Van Gelder, bears a relief
representing Washington receiving the petition of Andre as to the manner of
his death. The head of Andre has been twice knocked off and stolen ; on one
occasion it was by an American, who confessed in his last illness having taken it,

Westminster

and sent it back to Dean Buckland, who had it replaced, i ' The wanton mischief
of some Westminster schoolboy, about the time you were a scholar there ; do
you know anything about the unfortunate relic ? 1 said Charles Lamb to Southey.

South Aisle of Choir —

(Right) Admiral George Churchill (1710), brother of the great Duke of Marl-
borough.

Major Richard Creed (1704), 1 who attended William III. in all his wars,' and
was killed in the battle of Blenheim.

Sir Richard Bingham (1598), celebrated in the wars of Mary and Elizabeth —
a small black monument with a curious epitaph recounting the varied scenes of
his warfare.

Martin Ff dikes (1754), celebrated as a numismatist, President of the Royal
Society, buried at Hillingdon.

Dr. Isaac Watts (1748), 'the first of the Dissenters who courted attention
by the graces of language.' 2 Buried at Bunhill Fields. A tablet with a relief
by Banks.

George Stepney (1707), Ambassador in the reigns of William III. and Anne.

John Wesley (1791) and Charles Wesley (1788)— medallions by J. A. Acton.

William Wragge (1777), lost by shipwreck on his passage as a refugee from
South Carolina. His son floated on a package, supported by a black slave, till
cast upon the shore of Holland. The shipwreck is seen in a relief.

Sir Cloudesley Shovel (1707), Commander-in-Chief of the Fleet. As he was re-
turning with his fleet from Gibraltar his ship was wrecked on ' the Bishop
and his Clerks ' off the Scilly Isles. His body was washed on shore, buried, dis-
interred, and after lying in state at his house in Soho Square, was laid in the
Abbey. In this abominable monument by Bird he is represented in his own
well-known wig, but with a Roman cuirass and sandals ! ' Sir Cloudesley Shovel's
monument has very often given me very great offence. Instead of the brave
rough English Admiral, which was the distinguishing character of that plain
gallant man, he is represented on his tomb by the figure of a beau, dressed in a
long periwig, and reposing himself upon velvet cushions, under a canopy of state.
The inscription is answerable to the monument ; for, instead of celebrating the
many remarkable actions he had performed in the service of his country, it
acquaints us only with the manner of his death, in which it was impossible for
him to reap any honour.' — Spectator, No. 26. The wreck of the Association is re-
presented on the monument, which was erected by Queen Anne.

' A working-man told me that he derived his name from the humble origin
from which he sprang, for it was so humble that he was taken with a shovel out
of a heap of ashes, and he was called Shovel from the instrument then used, and
Cloudesley from the filthy and cloudy appearance which he presented on that
occasion.'— J.. P. Stanley.

(Above Sir C. Shovel) Sir Godfrey Kneller (1723), the great portrait-painter
from the time of Charles II. to George I., the only painter commemorated in the
Abbey. Even he is not buried here, but at Kneller Hall, in accordance with his
exclamation to Pope upon his death-bed — 'By God, I will not be buried in
Westminster ; they do bury fools there.' He designed his own monument, how-
ever ; the bust is by Rysbrach, and Pope wrote the epitaph—

' Kneller, by Heaven, and not a master, taught,
Whose art was nature, and whose pictures thought—
Now for two ages having snatched from fate
Whate'er was beauteous, or whate'er was great —
Lies, crowned with princes' honours, poets' lays,
Due to his merit and brave thirst of praise :
Living, great Nature fear'd he might outvie
Her works ; and dying, fears herself may die.' 3

1 Dean Buckland himself told this to Countess Grey. 2 Dr. J ohnson.

s The last two lines were borrowed from Cardinal Bembo's distich on Raff aelle.

The Choir

Left Wall {of Choir)—

Thomas Thymic, of Longleat (1682), the Issachar of Dryden, murdered at
the foot of the Haymarket by the hired assassins of Count Konigsmarck, in
jealousy for his being accepted as the husband of the great heiress Elizabeth
Percy, then the child-widow of Lord Ogle. The murder is graphically represented
in a relief upon the monument, by Quellin.

' A Welshman, bragging of his family, said his father's effigy was set up in
Westminster Abbey; being asked whereabouts, he said, "In the same monu-
ment with Squire Thynne, for he was his coachman." ' — Joe Miller's Jests.

Thomas Owen (1598), Judge of Common Pleas in the time of Elizabeth— a fine
old monument of the period.

Pasquale de Paoli (1807), the Italian patriot, buried at St. Pancras, and re-
moved thence to Corsica — a bust by Flaxman.

Dame Grace Gethin (1697), considered a prodigy in her day, whose book of
devotions was published after her death by Congreve, with a prefatory poem.
He believed or pretended that its contents were original, 1 noted down by the
authoress with her pencil at spare hours, or as she was dressing ; ' but the
' Reliquiae Gethinianae' are chiefly taken from Lord Bacon and other authors :
' the marble book in Westminster Abbey must therefore lose most of its leaves.' 1
Grace, (wife of Sir Richard Gethin) was only twenty-one when she died. She is
buried at Hollingbourne in Kent, where her relations, the Culpeppers, resided, and
where her epitaph records her remarkable vision before death.

*Sir Thomas Richardson (1634), Speaker of the House of Commons, Judge of
Common Pleas, created Lord Chief Justice by Charles I. He was known as 'the
jeering Lord Chief Justice,' who, when he was reprimanded by Laud for an order
he had issued against the ancient customs of wakes, protested in a fury that 1 the
lawn sleeves had almost choked him ;' and who, when he condemned Prynne,
said that he 'might have the Book of Martyrs to amuse him.' This tomb is the
last till a hundred and fifty years were past which had any pretensions to real
art. It is of black marble, and has a most noble bust by Hubert le S<><-i>r.

William Thynne of Botterville, or Bottcville (1584), Receiver of the Marches
under Henry VIII.— a noble figure in armour, lying on a mat.

Andrew Bell (1832), founder of the Madras system of education— a tablet by
Behnes.

We must now enter the Choir, the loftiest in England, which, as
has been already observed, projects into the nave after the fashion
of Spanish cathedrals. Its rereclos, a miserable work of Scott, was
erected in 1867. The site was long occupied (170G-1824) by a fine
but incongruous work of Inigo Jones, brought from Hampton Court by
Wren, which was restored away to make room for a time for a wretched
plaster work of Bernasconi. This is the scene of the coronations,
which are still described as taking place ' in Our Palace at West-
minster,' because the Abbey is, as it were, a chapel to the ancient
palace, with which it communicated through the south transept.
Here Richard II. was crowned at eleven years old, and was carried
out fainting from the fatigue of the long ceremony, and here Henry
VI. was crowned in his eighth year. The vestments used at corona-
tions are the linen colabium sindonis, corresponding with t lie alb of
a cleric or rochet of a bishop : the tnnicle or dalmatic of cloth of
gold : the armilla or stole put across one shoulder, as worn by a
deacon : and the mantle of cloth of gold, worked with imperial
eagles and embroidered with the rose, shamrock, and thistle, which
has been compared to an ecclesiastical chasuble. Three swords are

1 Disraeli, Curiosities of Literature.

Westminster

carried before the sovereign : one, with a blunted edge, indicates
mercy, the second spiritual jurisdiction, the third temporal power.
None of the copes used at coronations date beyond the seventeenth
century.

Four of the Abbots of Westminster are buried in the space in
front of the altar. Abbot Richard de Ware (1284), who brought the
materials of the beautiful mosaic pavement back with him from
Eome ; 1 Abbot Wenloch (1308), under whom the buildings of Henry
III. were completed ; the unworthy Abbot Kydyngton (1315), whose
election was obtained by the influence of Piers Gaveston with
Edward II. ; and Abbot Henley (1344).

On the left are three beautiful royal monuments which we have
already seen from the northern ambulatory — Aveline, Aylmer de
Valence, and Edmund Crouchback ; but here alone can we examine
the beautiful effigy of Aveline, Countess of Lancaster, daughter of
William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle and Holdernesse, the greatest
heiress in England in the time of Henry III., when she was married
in the Abbey to his younger son, Edmund Crouchback, in 1269,
being probably the first bride married in the Abbey. She is dressed
in a flowing mantle, but wears the disfiguring gorget of white cam-
bric, with a vizor for the face, which was fashionable at the time,
as a female imitation of the helmets of the crusading knights.
' The splendour of such works, when the gilding and emblazoning
were fresh, may easily be imagined ; but it may be a question
whether they do not make a stronger appeal to the sentiment in
their more sombre and subdued colour, than they would if they
were in the freshness of their original decoration.' 2

On the right, nearest the altar, are the sedilia shown as the tomb
of Sebert and Ethelgoda, noticed from the southern aisle. They
were once decorated with eight paintings of figures, of which two,
Henry III. and Sebert, remain : one of the lost figures represented
Edward the Confessor. Next is the tomb of Anne of Cleves, the
repudiated fourth wife of Henry VIII. She continued to reside in
England, treated with great honour by her step-children, and her
last public appearance was at the coronation of Mary, to which she
rode in the same carriage with the Princess Elizabeth. ' She was,'
says Holinshed, ' a lady of right commendable regard, courteous,
gentle, a good housekeeper, and very bountiful to her servants.'
She died peacefully at Chelsea, 1557, and was magnificently buried
by Mary at the feet of King Sebert. This Protestant princess, whose
marriage was brought about by Cromwell and Cranmer to further
the cause of the Keformation, had turned to Komanism in her later
years. Her funeral, at which Bonner sang mass in his mitre, and
Abbot Feckenham preached, was one of the last great Catholic
solemnities celebrated in the Abbey. The tomb was never finished,
but may be recognised by her initials A. and C. , several times re-
peated. * Not one of Henry's wives had a monument,' wrote Fuller,

1 The Purbeck marble setting proves that the pavement was not sent from
Rome in a finished state.

2 Professor Westmacott.

The Choir

1 except Anne of Cleves, and hers but half a one.' 1 Here hangs the
famous Portrait of Richard II., 'the oldest contemporary representa-
tion of an English sovereign' (beautifully restored by Richmond),
which long hung in the Jerusalem Chamber, but had been removed
thither from its present position. * That beautiful picture of a king
sighing,' says Weever (1631), 'crowned in a chaire of estate, at the
upper end of the quire in this church, is said to be of Richard II.,
which witnesseth how goodly a creature he was in outward linea-
ments.' The portrait represents a pale delicate face, with a long,
thin, weak, drooping mouth and curling hair.

1 Was this face the face
That every day under his household roof
Did keep ten thousand men ? Was this the face
That, like the sun, did make beholders wink ?
Was this the face that faced so many follies,
And was at last out-faced by Bolingbroke ?
A brittle glory shineth in this face.'

Richard II., Act iv. sc. 1.

A piece of tapestry now hangs here which was brought from
Westminster School ; the tapestries which adorned the choir in the
seventeenth century represented the story of Hugolin and the
robber. 2

In 1378 this choir was the scene of a crime which recalls the
murder of Becket in Canterbury Cathedral. Two knights, Schakell
and Hawle, who fought with the Black Prince in Spain, had taken
prisoner a Spanish Count, whom they compelled to the duties of a
valet. The delivery of this prisoner was demanded by John of
Gaunt, who claimed the crown of Castile in right of his wife. The
knights refused, and fled into the sanctuary. Thither Sir Alan
Buxhall, Constable of the Tower, and Sir Ralph Ferrars, with fifty
armed men, pursued them. For greater safety the knights fled
into the very choir itself, where high mass was being celebrated ;
but as the deacon reached the words in the Gospel of the day, ' If
the goodman of the house had known what time the thief would
appear,' their assailants burst in. Schakell escaped, but Hawle fled
round and round the choir, pursued by his enemies, and at length
fell covered with wounds at the foot of the Prior's stall : his servant
and one of the monks were slain with him. This flagrant violation
of sanctuary occasioned unspeakable horror. The culprits were
excommunicated and heavily fined, the desecrated Abbey was
closed for four months, and Parliament was not permitted to sit
within the polluted precincts.

Windows have recently been erected in the Abbey to Chaucer ; to
Robert Stephenson, in 1862 ; Joseph Locke, 1863 ; J. K. Brunei, 1865 ;
Sir J. W. Siemens, 1884 ; Richard Trevethick, 1888— engineers ; to
the poets Herbert and Cowper, 1876 ; and the musicians, V. Novello,
1863 ; and J. Turle, 1882.

1 Katherine Parr, buried at Sudeley Castle, has a modern monument of the
greatest beauty.
' 2 See Weever, Funeral Monuments.

Westminster

' A door at the eastern angle of Poet's Corner is the approach to
the noble Crypt under the Chapter House. There is a short massive
round pillar in the centre, from which eight simple groins radiate
over the roof. The pillar has two cavities, supposed to have been
used as hiding-places for treasures of the church. Six small win-
dows give light to the crypt. On the east is a recess for an altar,
with an ambry on one side and a piscina on the other. This vault
was once used as the Treasury of the Royal Wardrobe.

The southern bay of the South Transept was formerly partitioned
off as the Chapel of St. Blaise. Dart mentions that its entrance
was 6 enclosed with three doors, the inner cancellated ; the middle,
which is very thick, lined with skins like parchment, and driven
full of nails. These skins, they, by tradition, tell us, were some
skins of the Danes, tanned and given here as a memorial of our
delivery from them.' Only one of the doors remains now, but the
others existed within the memory of man, and traces of them are
still visible. Oiven Tudor, uncle of Henry VII. and son of Queen
Katherine de Valois, who became a monk in the Abbey, was buried
in the Chapel of St. Blaise, with Abbot Litlington, 1386, and
Benson, who was first abbot and then dean, 1549.

Beneath the monument of Oliver Goldsmith is the entrance to
the Old Revestry, or Chapel of St. Faith, which is a very lofty and
picturesque chamber, half passage, half chapel. An enormous
buttress following the line of the pillars in the transept cuts off
the tracery of the arches on the south. At the western end is a
kind of bridge, by which the monks descended from the dormitory,
entering the church by a winding staircase, which was probably
removed to make way for the Duke of Argyll's monument. 1 Over
the altar is a figure shown by Abbot Ware's ' Customs of the Abbey '
to have been intended to represent St. Faith ; below is a small
representation of the Crucifixion, and on one side a kneeling monk,
with the lines —

'Me, quern culpa gravis premit, erige, Virgo sua vis ,
Fac mini placatum Christum, deleasque reatum,'

which has led to the belief that the painting was the penitential
offering of a monk.

Hence (if the door is open 2 ) we can enter the beautiful portico
leading from the Cloisters to the Chapter House, finished in 1253 ;
the original paving remains ; it is deeply worn by the feet of the
monks. Here is buried Allot Byrcheston (1349), who died of the
plague called the Black Death, with twenty-six of his monks.
Here also a group of persons connected with the earliest history
of the Abbey were buried — King Sebert and Queen Ethelgoda (or
Actelgod), who lay here before they were moved to the choir, with
Ricula, the king's sister ; Hugolin, the treasurer of Edward the
Confessor ; Edwin, the first abbot ; and Sulcardus, the monk who

1 Sir Or. Scott's Gleanings.

2 If not, go round by the Cloisters.

The Chapter House

was the first historian of the Abbey. 1 Flete gives the epitaph
which hung over Edwin's grave —

'Iste locellus habet bina cadavera claustro ;

Uxor Seberti, prima tamen minima ;
Defracta capitis testa, clarus Hugolinus
A claustro noviter hie translatus erat :
Abbas Ed vinus et Sulcardus coenobita ;
Sulcardus major est— Deus assit eis.'

On the left of the steps is a Roman stone coffin bearing an
inscription saying that it was made for Valerius Amandinus by his
two sons. A cross on the lid and traces of a cope show that it was
afterwards appropriated for an ecclesiastic. It was found on the
north side of the Abbey, near St. Margaret's. On the pedestal
between the doors of the portico stood a beautiful statuette of the
Virgin, and on the central boss of the cloister there still remains the
pulley for the rope by which the lamp which burnt before it was
raised.

The Chapter House of Westminster, which is the largest in
England except that of Lincoln, was built by Henry III. in 1 '250,
upon the ancient crypt of the Chapter House of Edward the
Confessor. Matthew Paris (1250) says of Henry III., 'Dominus Rex
aedificavit capitulum incomparable,' and at the time it was built,
there was nothing to be compared to it. Hither his grand-daughter,
Eleanor, Duchess of Bar, eldest daughter of Edward I., was brought
from France for burial in 1298.

Here the monks, at least once a week, assembled to hold their
chapters, in which all the affairs of the monastery were discussed.
The abbot and the four chief oflicers took their seats in the orna-
mented stalls oppo.-ite the entrance, the monks on the stone benches
round. In front of the stalls criminals were tried, and, if found
guilty, were publicly flogged against the central pillar of Purbeck
marble (35 feet high), which was used as a whipping-post.

' It is the house of confession, the house of obedience, mercy, and forgiveness ;
the house of unity, peace, and tranquillity, where the brethren make satisfaction
for their faults.'— Abbot Ware, ' CustumaV

But the monks had not sole possession of the Chapter House, for,
after the Houses of Lords and Commons were separated, in the
reign of Edward I., the House of Commons began to hold its sit-
tings here, and continued to hold them, sometimes in the Refec-
tory, but generally in the Chapter House, till 1517. This chamber
has therefore witnessed the principal acts which have been the
foundation of the civil and religious liberties of England. The
Speaker probably occupied the abbot's stall, and the members the
benches of the monks and the floor of the house. The placards of
the business of the house were affixed to the central pillar, against
which was laid the Black Book of the evidence against the monas-
teries, which led to their dissolution. Among the special assemblies
convened here was that of Henry V., who in 1421 summoned sixty

1 His MS. is in the Cottonian Library.

Westminster

abbots and priors and three hundred monks to discuss the reform
of the Benedictine Order, and that of Wolsey, who in 1523, as
Cardinal Legate, summoned the Convocations of Canterbury and
York to a spot where they might be beyond the jurisdiction of
the Archbishop of Canterbury. Here also the Protestant martyrs,
Bilney and Barnes, were condemned to be burnt.

The last Parliament which sat here was on the last day of the
life of Henry VIII., when the Act of Attainder was passed on the
Duke of Norfolk ; and here, while it was sitting, must the news
have been brought in that the terrible king was dead.

' Within the Chapter House must have been passed the first Clergy Discipline
Act, the first Clergy Residence Act, and, chief of all, the Act of Supremacy and
the Act of Submission^ Here, to acquiesce in that Act, met the Convocation of
the Province of Canterbury. On the table in this Chapter House must have been
placed the famous Black Book, which sealed the fate of all the monasteries of
England, including the Abbey of Westminster close by, and which struck such a
thrill of horror through the House of Commons when they heard its contents.'—
Dean Stanley.

The Chapter House passed to the Crown at the dissolution of the
monastery, and seven years afterwards the House of Commons re-
moved to St. Stephen's Chapel in the palace of Westminster. From
that time the Chapter House was used as a Record Office, and its
walls were disfigured and its area blocked up by bookcases. In
1865, after the removal of the Records to the Rolls House, the resto-
ration of the building was begun under Sir Gilbert Scott.

The Chapter House is now almost in its pristine beauty. The roof
is rebuilt. All the windows have been restored from the one speci-
men which remained intact, and are filled with stained glass, in
accordance with a scheme drawn up by Dean Stanley, and as a
memorial to him. They are remarkable for their early introduction
of quatrefoils, and are shown by the bills to have been completed in
1253, before the completion of the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, which
is the same in style. Over the entrance is a throned figure of the
Saviour, replacing one which is known to have existed there : the
figures at the sides, representing the Annunciation, are ancient, and,
though stiff, are admirable. Many of the ancient wall-paintings are
preserved. Those at the east end, representing the seraphs around
the Throne — on which our Lord is seated with hands held up and
chest bared to show the sacred wounds — are of the fourteenth
century. The niches on each side of the central one are occupied
by six winged cherubim, the feathers of their wings having pea-
cocks' eyes, to carry out the idea, 'They are full of eyes within.'
On one of them the names of the Christian virtues are written on
the feathers of the wings. 1 The other paintings round the walls,
representing scenes from the Revelation of St. John, are of the
latter part of the fifteenth century, and are all traced to a monk
of the convent — John of Northampton. The tiles of the floor, with
their curious heraldic emblems, are ancient.

A glass case is filled with ancient deeds belonging to the history of

1 See Sir G. Scott's Gleanings from Westminster Abbey.

The Cloisters

the Abbey, including a grant of OfTa, king of tne Mercians, 785 ;
and of King Edgar, 951-962 ; and the Charter of Edward the Con-
fessor dated on the day of Holy Innocents, 1065. Another case
contains fragments of tombs and other relics found in the Abbey.

The Cloisters are of different dates, from the time of the Confessor
to that of Edward III. The central space was a burial-ground for
the monks. The abbots were buried in the arcades, but these were
also a centre of monastic life, and in the western cloister the
Master of the Novices kept a school 1 which was the first beginning
of Westminster School.' In the southern cloister the operations of
washing were carried on at the 'lavatory,' and here also, by the
rules of the convent, the monks were compelled to have their heads
shaved by the monastic barber — once a fortnight in summer and
once in three w r eeks in winter.

' The approach to the Abbey through these gloomy monastic remains prepares
the mind for its solemn contemplation. The cloisters still retain something of
the quiet and seclusion of former days. The grey walls are discoloured by damp,
and crumbling with age : a coat of hoary moss has gathered over the inscrip-
tions of the several monuments, and obscured the death s heads and other
funeral emblems. The roses which adorned the keystones have lost their leafy
beauty : everything bears marks of the gradual dilapidation of time, which yet
has something touching and pleasing in its very decay.' — Washington Irving,
1 The Sketch Book.'

In the East Cloister (built in the thirteenth and fourteenth cen-
turies) the great feature is the beautiful double door of the Chapter
House. The mouldings of the outer arch are decorated with ten
small figures on each side, in niches formed by waving foliage, of
which the stem springs from the lowest figure — probably Jesse.
The tympanum is covered with exquisite scrollwork, terribly injured
by time, and has a mutilated statue of the Virgin and Child, with
angels on cither side.

In this wall, just to the south of the entrance of the Chapter
House, is the iron-bound entrance to the Ancient Treasury of the
Kings of England. It is a double door opened by seven keys, and till
lately could only be unlocked by a special order from the Lords
Commissioners of the Treasury : the permission of the Secretary of
the Treasury, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and the Comptroller
of the Exchequer is said still to be required. The Chamber thus
mysteriously guarded, generally known now as the Chapel of the Pyx, 1
is the most remarkable remnant we possess of the original Abbey.
It occupies the second and third bays of the Confessor's work be-
neath the Dormitory. The early Norman pillar in the centre (Saxon
in point of date) has a cylindrical shaft, 3 ft. 6 in. in diameter and
3 ft. 4 in. high. The capital has a great unmoulded abacus, 7 in.
deep, supported by a primitive moulding, and carrying plain groin-
ing in the square transverse ribs. It is interesting to see how,
during the Norman period, the massive simplicity of this, as of other
capitals, seem to have tempted the monks to experiments of rude

i The Pyx is the box in which the specimen pieces are kept at the Mint— pyxis,
from pyxos, a box-tree.

Westminster

sculpture, here incomplete. The ancient stone altar remains, and
is remarkable for the circular sinking in the slab, apparently for the
reception of a portable altar-stone. Several heavy iron-bound chests
remain — some of them very curious. The standards of gold and
silver, used every year at 'the Trial of the Pyx ' for determining
the justness of weight in the gold and silver coins issued from the
Mint, have now been removed thither. There is nothing to remind
one that —

1 Hither were brought the most cherished possessions of the State : the Regalia
of the Saxon monarchy ; the Black Rood of St. Margaret ("the Holy Cross of
Holyrood") from Scotland; the "Crocis Gneyth" (or Cross of St. Neot) from

CHAPEL OP THE PYX, WESTMINSTER.

Wales, deposited here by Edward I. ; the Sceptre or Rod of Moses ; the Am-
pulla of Henry IV. ; the sword with which King Athelstane cut through the
rock at Dunbar ; the sword of Wayland Smith, by which Henry II. was knighted ;
the sword of Tristan, presented to John by the Emperor ; the dagger which
wounded Edward I. at Acre ; the iron gauntlet worn by John of France when
taken prisoner at Poitiers. ' — Dean Stanley.

The Kegalia were kept here in the time of the Commonwealth,
and Henry Marten was intrusted with the duty of investigating
them. He dragged the crown, sword, sceptre, &c, from their chest,
and put them on George Wither, the poet, who, 'being thus
crowned and royally arrayed, first marched about the room with a
stately gait, and afterwards, with a thousand apish and ridiculous
actions, exposed those sacred ornaments to contempt and laughter.' 1

l Wood's Ath. iii. 1238.

The Cloisters

In the first bay of the Confessor's work is a narrow space, under
the staircase which now leads to the Library. This was the original
approach to the Treasury, and here, bound by iron bars against the
door, are still to be seen fragments of a human skin. It is that of
one of the robbers who were flayed alive in the reign of Henry III.
for attempting to break into the chapel and carry off the royal
treasure. In this narrow passage the ornamentation of the capital
of the Saxon column has been completed. Thousands of MSS. con-
nected with the Abbey have been discovered here imbedded in the
rubbish with which the floor was piled up.

In the cloister, above the Treasury door, is the monument of
General Henry Withers, 1729, with an epitaph by Pope. Beyond
the entrance of the Chapter House is the interesting monument
erected by his brother to Sir Edmund Berry Godfrey, murdered in
1678. In the pavement is the grave of the virtuous and bene-
ficent actress, Anntf Bracer/irdle, 1748. Mrs. Cibbcr, 1766, the tragic
actress, is also buried here. The licentious authoress Aphra or
Aphara Bchn (in her correspondence ' Astraca '), who was sent as a
spy to Antwerp by Charles II. during the Dutch war, was buried
near the end of the cloister in 1689. Her blue gravestone is in-
scribed—

' Here lies a proof that wit can never be
Defence enough against mortality.'

Near her lies Tom Brown , the satirist, 1704. The simple inscription
here to ' Jane Lister, dear childe, 16S8,' attracts greater sympathy
than more pretentious epitaphs. 1 Dean Stanley delighted in this
tablet, as recalling in its simple inscription the monuments of the
Catacombs.

In the North Cloister (of the thirteenth century) is the monument
of John Coleman, 1 who served the royal familie, viz. King Charles
II. and King James II., with approved fidelity above fifty years.'
Near this is a quaint tablet inscribed —

' With diligence and trvst most exemplai y.
Did William Lavrence serve a Prebendary.
And for his paines now past, before not lost,
Gain'd this remembrance at his master's cost.
0 reade these lines again e ; you seldome find
A servant faithfvll, and a master kind.

i It commemorates the daughter of Dr. Martin Lister, F.R.S., Naturalist and
Court Physician to Queen Anne. His mother was the beautiful Susan Temple,
maid of honour to Anne of Denmark. Her second husband was Dr. Martin
Lister, of Burwell, in Lincolnshire, and their only child .Martin was born in 1638.
By her former husband, Sir Gilford Thornhurst, she bad a daughter, Frances,
who marrying Richard Jennings, Esq., became the mother of Sarah Jennings,
the famous Duchess of Marlborough. The mother of the 'dear childe' was
Anna, daughter of Thomas Parkinson, of Carleton Hall, near Shipton-in-Craven,
Yorkshire. She was buried in Clapham Church, with the inscription, 'Hannah
Lister, deare wife, died 1G95, and left six children in tears for a most indulgent
mother.' Dr. Lister was well known as the friend of Ray the naturalist, and for
his contributions to the Proceedings of the Royal Society; but his great work
was a history of shells, with above a thousand illustrations by his elder daughters
Susannah and Anna, Historia sive Synopsis Met hod lea Conchyliorum. He mar-
ried a second time, Jane Cullen of St. Mildred, Poultry ; but when he died, 1711,
at his country-house at Epsom he was buried beside his first wife at Clapham.

Westminster

Short hand he wrote ; his flowre in prime did fade,
And hasty Death Short-hand of him hath made.
Well couth he nu'bers, and well mesur'd Land ;
Thus doth he now that grov'd whereon you stand,
Wherein he lyes so geometricall :
Art maketh some, but thus will Nature all.

Obijt Decern. 28, 1621, Aetatis suae 29.'

Close by is the grave of William Markham, Dean of Westminster
and Archbishop of York (1807).

In the West Cloister (of the fourteenth century) are the monu-
ments of Charles, brother to Sidney, Earl of Godolphin, 1720;
and Benjamin Cooke, 1793, musician and organist, with his 'canon'
engraved. Here also are those of the engravers William Woollctt,
1785, ' incisor excellentissimus,' with a foolish metaphorical relief
by Banks; and George Vertue (1756), who being a strict Eoman
Catholic, was laid near a monk of his family.' There is a tomb
to John Broughton (1789), the champion prize-fighter, long an Abbey-
verger, from whose figure Roubiliac modelled the Hercules on the
tomb of General Fleming. A blank has been left where he wished
the words 4 Champion prize-fighter of England ' to appear in his
epitaph, but the Dean and Chapter objected.

The South Cloister (fourteenth century) was the burial-place of all
the abbots down to the time of Henry III. Here are buried Vitalis
(1085) — appointed by the Conqueror, Crispin (1117), Herbert (1139),
Gervase de Blois (1160) — a natural son of King Stephen, Laurence
(1176), Walter of Winchester (1191), Postard (1200), and Humez
(1222) — the last abbot buried in the cloisters. Several of their effi-
gies remain. A gravestone marks the resting-place of little nephews
and nieces of John Wesley. The blue slab called Long Meg is sup-
posed to cover the remains of the monks who died of the plague —
'the Black Death' — with Abbot Byrcheston, in 1349. The four
lancet-shaped niches in the wall are supposed to be remains of
the Lavatory. Above the whole length of this cloister stretched
the Refectory of the convent, a vast chamber of the time of Edward
Illy supported by arches which date from the time of the Confessor.
Some arches of this date may be seen in the wall of a little court,
entered by a door in the south wall : the door on the other side
led to the Abbey kitchen. In the court is a very curious leaden
cistern of 1663, with the letters R E. and the date.

Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, in her poignant grief for the
loss of her son, used to sit in these cloisters dressed as a beggar.
The Duchess of Portland relates that her husband saw her there
when he was a boy at Westminster School.

Over the eastern cloister was the Dormitory, whence the monks
descended to the midnight services in the church by the gallery
in the south transept. It is now divided between the Chapter
Library and Westminster School.

The Library of Westminster Abbey (reached from a door on the
right of that leading to the Chapter House) was founded by Dean
Williams in 1620. Among valuable books are the Missal of Abbot

The Cloisters

Litlington, 1362 ; Liber Regalis, 1377 ; an editio princeps of Plato ;
and Ware's Custumal. Some of the bindings of the fifteenth and
sixteenth centuries are exceedingly curious and beautiful. The room
is that described by Washington Irving.

'I found myself in a lofty antique hall, the roof supported by massive joints
of old English oak. It was soberly lighted by a row of Gothic windows at a
considerable height from the floor, and which apparently opened upon the roof
of the cloisters. An ancient picture, of some reverend dignitary of the church
in his robes,i hung over the fireplace. Around the hall and in a small gallery
were the books, arranged in carved oaken cases. They consisted principally of
old polemical writers, and were much more worn by time than use. In the
centre of the Library was a solitary table, with two or three books on it, an
inkstand without ink, and a few pens parched by long disuse. The place seem< d
fitted for quiet study and meditation. It was buried deep among the massive
walls of the Abbey, and shut up from the tumult of the world. I could only
hear now and then the shouts of the schoolboys faintly swelling from the
Cloisters, and the sound of a bell tolling for prayers, that echoed soberly along
the roof of the Abbey. By degrees the shouts of merriment grew fainter and
fainter, and at length died away. The bell ceased to toll, and a profound
silence reigned through the dusky hall.'

At the southern end of the east cloister was the Infirmary,
probably destroyed when the Little Cloister was built, but shown by
the fragments, which still exist, to be of the age of the Confessor.
It was so arranged that the sick monks could hear the services in
the adjoining Chapel of St. Catherine.

' Hither came the processions of the Convent to see the sick brethren ; and
were greeted by a blazing fire in the Hall, and long rows of candles in the
Chapel. Here, although not only here, were conducted the constant bleediugs
of the monks. Here, in the Chapel, the young monks were privately whipped.
Here the invalids were soothed by music. Here also lived the seven 1 playfellows
(sympectae), the name given to the elder monks, who, after the age of fifty, were
exempted from all the ordinary regulations, were never told anything unpleasant,
and themselves took the liberty of examining and censuring everything.'— Dean
Stanley.

A passage (left) called the Dark Cloister, and a turn to the left,
under waggon-vaulting of the Confessor's time — a substructure of
the Dormitory — lead to the Little Cloister, a square arcaded court
with a fountain in the centre. At its south-eastern corner are
remains of the ancient bell-tower of St. Catherine's Chapel, built
by Abbot Litlington. In this, the Litlington Tower, the beautiful
Emma Harte, afterwards Lady Hamilton, lived as servant to Mr.
Dare.

Hence we may reach the Infirmary Garden, now the College
Garden, a large open space, whence there is a noble view of the
Abbey and the Victoria Tower. On the north side of this was St.
Catherine's Chapel (the chapel of the Infirmary), destroyed in 1571,
which bore a great part in the monastic story.- Here most of the
consecrations of bishops before the Reformation took place, with
the greater part of the provincial councils of Westminster. St.
Hugh of Lincoln was consecrated here in 1186. Here Henry III.,

1 Dean Williams, 1620-50.

2 It had a nave and aisle of five bays long, and a chancel, and was of good late
Norman work.

Westminster

in the presence of the archbishop and bishops, swore to observe the
Magna Charta. Here also the memorable struggle took place (1176)
between the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, which led to the
question of their precedence being decided by a Papal edict, giving
to one the title of Primate of all England, to the other that of
Primate of England.

1 A synod was called at Westminster, the Pope's legate being present thereat ;
on whose right hand sat Richard, Archbishop of Canterbury, as in his proper
place. When in springs Roger of York, and finding Canterbury so seated, fairly
sits him down on Canterbury's lap (a baby too big to be danced thereon !) ; yea,
Canterbury's servants dandled this lap-child with a witness, who plucked him
thence, and buffeted him to purpose.'— Fuller's ' Church History.'

Before 1871, the west entrance, the south aisle with its columns,
and part of the south wall, were the only visible remains of the
chapel, but in that year excavations laid bare the north w r all with
the bases and portions of the columns of the north aisle, besides
the raised space for the altar.

A winding staircase in the cloister wall, opposite the entrance to
the Chapter House, leads to the Muniment Boom, a gallery above
what should have been the west aisle of the South Transept, cut
off by the cloister. Here, on the plastered wall, is a great outline
painting of the White Hart, the badge of Kichard II. The archives
of the Abbey are kept in a number of curious oaken chests, some
of w^hich are of the thirteenth century. There is a noble view of
the Abbey from this, but no one should omit to ascend the same
staircase farther to the Triforium. Here, from the broad galleries,
the Abbey is seen in all its glory, and here alone the beauty of the
arches of the triforium itself can be perfectly seen. It is also
interesting from this to see how marked is the difference between
the earlier and later portions of the nave, the five earlier bays to
the east having detached columns and a diapered wall-surface,
which ceases afterwards. Over the southern aisle of the nave are
Gibbons's carved Obelisks, which are seen in old pictures as standing
at the entrance of the choir. Other relics are the iron rails which
supported the canopy over the tomb of Edward I., and a number
of helmets of knights, carried at their funerals. The triforium
ends in the chamber in the south-western tower, which is supposed
to be haunted by the ghost of Bradshaw, who is said to have made
it a frequent resort when he w T as living in the Deanery (with which
there is a communication) during the Commonwealth. A piece of
timber was long shown here as ' Bradshaw's rack.' The chamber
was probably once used as a prison : an immense quantity of bones
of sheep and pigs were found here. In the south-eastern triforium
is a cast from the leaden coffin of Prince Henry, eldest son of
James I. : it is very interesting, as the lead was fitted to the
features ; the heart, separately encased, rested upon the breast.
The view from the eastern end of the triforium is the most glorious
in the whole building : here the peculiar tapering bend of the
arches (as at Canterbury) may be seen, which is supposed, by
poetic monastic fancy, to have reference to the bent head of the

The Deanery

Saviour on the cross. In one of the recesses of the north-eastern
triforium is the Pulpit, 'which resounded with the passionate appeals,
at one time of Baxter, Howe, and Owen, at other times of Heylin,
Williams, South, and Barrow.' 1 The helmets of the Knights of the
Bath, when removed from Henry VII. 's Chapel, are preserved here.
Farther on are two marble reliefs, with medallions of the Saviour
and the Virgin, supposed to have been intended, but not used, for
the tomb of Anne of Cleves. At the end of the north-western
triforium is a curious chest for vestments, in which copes could be
laid without folding.

At the end of the southern cloister, on the right, was the Abbot's
House, now the Deanery. 2 The dining-room, where Sir J. Reynolds
was the frequent guest of Dr. Markham, contains several interesting
portraits of historic deans. Behind the bookcases of the library a
secret chamber was discovered in 1864, supposed to be that in
which Abbot William of Colchester, to whose guardianship three
suspected dukes and two earls had been intrusted by Henry IV.,
plotted with them (1399) for the restoration of Richard II. Shak-
speare gives the scene. It was probably in this secret chamber
that Richard Fiddes was concealed and supplied with materials for
writing that ' Life of Wolsey' which was intended to vilify the
Reformation and counteract its effects. Here also, perhaps, Francis
Atterbury, the most prominent of the Westminster deans — the furious
Jacobite, who, on the death of Queen Anne, prepared to go in lawn
sleeves to proclaim James III. at Charing Cross — entered into those
plots for which he was sent to the Tower and exiled.

During the Commonwealth the Deanery was leased to John
Bradshaw, President of the High Court of Justice. He died in
the Deanery, and was buried in the Abbey.

On the other side of the picturesque little court in front of the
Deanery is the Abbot's Refectory, now the Colloje Hall, where the
Westminster scholars dine. Till the time of Dean Buckland (1845-
56) the hall was only warmed by a brasier, of which the smoke escaped
through the louvre in the roof. The huge tables of chest nut -wood
are said to have been presented by Elizabeth from the wrecks of
the Spanish Armada. Here probably it was — in the ' Abbot's Place '
— that the widowed queen Elizabeth Woodville (April 1483), cross-
ing over from the neighbouring palace, took refuge with Abbot
Esteney while the greater security of the Sanctuary was being pre-
pared for her. Here she sat on the rushes, 'all desolate and dis-
mayed,' with her long fair hair, which in her distress had escaped
from its confinement, sweeping upon the ground.

Through the little court of the Deanery is the approach to the
Jerusalem Chamber, built by Abbot Litlington between 137(> and 1386
as a guest-chamber for the Abbot's House. It probably derived its
after-name from tapestry pictures of the History of Jerusalem with

1 Dean Stanley.

2 Once called Cheyney Gate Manor, from the chain across the entrance of the
cloisters.

Westminster

which it was hung. Here, in the ancient chamber where Convoca-
tion now holds its meetings, Henry IV. died of apoplexy, March 20,
141-3, thus fulfilling the prophecy that he should die in Jerusalem.

' In this year was a great council holden at the White Friars of London, by
the which it was among other things concluded, that for the king's great journey
that he intended to take, in visiting of the Holy Sepulchre of our Lord, certain
galleys of war should be made, and other perveance concerning the same journey.

' Whereupon all hasty and possible speed was made ; but after the feast of
Christmas, while he was making his prayers at St. Edward's shrine, to take there
his leave, and so to speed him on his journey, he became so sick, that such as
were about him feared that he would have died right there ; wherefore they, for
his comfort, bare him into the abbot's place, and lodged him in a chamber, and

JERUSALEM CHAMBER.

there upon a pallet laid him before the fire, where he lay in great agony a certain
time.

' At length, when he was coming to himself, not knowing where he was, he
freyned [asked] of such as then were about him, what place that was ; the which
showed to him that it belonged unto the Abbot of Westminster ; and for he felt
himself so sick, he commanded to ask if that chamber had any special name ;
whereunto it was answered that it was named Jerusalem. Then said the king,
"Praise be to the Father of heaven, for now I know I shall die in this chamber,
according to the prophecy made of me beforesaid, that I should die in Jerusalem ; "
and so after he made himself ready, and died shortly after, upon the day of St.
Cuthbert.' — Fabyan's Chronicle.

Shakspeare gives the last words of Henry IV.

1 Kinj Henry. — Doth any name particular belong
Unto the lodging where I first did swoon ?
Warwick. — Tis call'd Jerusalem, my noble lord.

The Jerusalem Chamber

King Henry.— Laud be to God !— even there my life must end,
It hath been prophesied to me many years
I should not die but in Jerusalem ;
Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land :
But bear me to that chamber ; there I'll lie ;
In that Jerusalem shall Harry die.'

2 Henry IV., Act iv. sc. 4.

Here Addison (1719), Sir Isaac Newton (1727), and Congreve
(1728) lay in state before their burial in the Abbey.

As the warmth of the chamber drew a king- there to die, so it
attracted the Westminster Assembly in 1643, wearied with the cold
of sitting in Henry VII. 's Chapel, which held no fewer than one
thousand one hundred and sixty -three sessions, lasting through
more than five years and a half, 1 to establish a new platforme of
worship and discipline to their nation for all time to come.'

' Out of these walls came the Directory, the Longer and Shorter Catechism,
and that famous Confession of Faith which, alone within these islands, was
imposed by law on the whole kingdom ; and which, alone of all Protestant
Confessions, still, in spite of its sternness and narrowness, retains a hold on the
minds of its adherents to which its fervour and its logical coherence in some
measure entitle it.'— Dean Stanley.

Here also the meetings of the Revisers of the Old Testament
have taken place.

The chief existing decorations of this beautiful old chamber are
probably due to Dean Williams in the time of James I., but the
painted glass in the end window is of the time of Henry III., and
the best in the Abbey. The panelling is of cedar-wood. The
tapestry is mostly of the time of Henry VIII. The death of Henry
IV. is represented over the chiinney-piece.

From the Deanery a low archway leads into Dean's Yard, once
called ' The Elms,' from its grove of trees. The eastern side was
formerly occupied by the houses of the Prior, Sub-Prior, and other
officers of the convent, which still in part remain as houses of the
canons. The buildings nearest the archway were known in monastic
times as 'the Calberge.' In front of these, till the year 1758,
stretched the long detached building of the convent Granary, which
was used as the dormitory of Westminster School till the present
dormitory on the western side of the College Garden was built by
Dean Atterbury.

In the green space in the centre of the yard there takes place
every summer an exhibition of ' the results of window-garden-
ing,' exceedingly popular at the time with the poorer inhabitants
of Westminster, and often productive of much innocent pleasure
through the rest of the year.

On the east is a beautiful vaulted passage and picturesque gate
of Abbot Litlington's time, leading to the groined entrance of
Little Dean's Yard. The tower above the gate is that which was
known as 'the Blackstole Tower.' On the other side of the yard
is a classic gateway, the design of which is attributed to Inigo
Jones, now covered with names of scholars, which forms the entrance
to Westminster School, originally founded by Henry VIII., and
richly endowed by Queen Elizabeth in 15G0. The Schoolroom may be

Westminster

best visited between 2 and 3 p.m. It was the dormitory of the
monastery, and is ninety-six feet long and thirty-four broad. At
the south-western extremity two round arches of the Confessor's
time remain, with the door which led by a staircase to the cloisters.
On the opposite side is another arched window, and a door which
led to Abbot Litlington's Tower.

IN LITTLE DEAN'S YARD, WESTMINSTER.

In its present form the Schoolroom is a noble and venerable
chamber. The timber roof is of oak, not chestnut, as generally re-
presented. The upper part of the walls and the recesses of the
windows are covered with names of scholars. Formerly the benches
followed the lines of the walls, as in the old ' Fourth Form Room '
at Harrow ; the present horseshoe arrangement of benches was

Westminster School

introduced from the Charter House by Dean Liddell (who had been
a Charter House boy) when he was head-master. The half-circle
marked in the floor of the dais recalls the semicircular form of the
end of the room, which existed till 1868, and which gave the name
of ' shell ' (adopted by several other public schools) to the class
which occupied that position. The old ' shell-forms,' the most
venerable of the many ancient benches here, hacked and carved
with names till scarce any of the original surface remains, are pre-
served in a small class-room on the left. In a similar room on the
right is a form which bears the name of Dryden, cut in narrow
capital letters. The school hours are from eight to nine, ten to
half -past twelve, and half -past three to live.

High up, across the middle of the Schoolroom, an iron bar
divides the Upper and Lower Schools. Over this bar, by an ancient
custom, the college cook or his deputy tosses a stiffly made pancake
on Shrove Tuesday. The boys, on the other side of the bar straggle
to catch it, and if any boy can not onl} 7 catch it, but convey it away
intact from all competitors to the head-master's house (a difficult
feat) he can claim a guinea. Since the accession of Head-master
Rutherford only one boy from each form has been allowed to con-
tend. In former days a curtain, hanging from this bar, separated
the schools.

'Every one who is acquainted with Westminster School knows that there
is a curtain which used to be drawn across the room, to separate the upper
school from the lower. A youth [Wake, father of Archbishop Wake] happened,
by some mischance, to tear the above mentioned curtain. The severity of the
master [Dr. Busby] was too well known for the criminal to expect any pardon
for such a fault ; so that the boy, who was of a meek temper, was terrified to
death at the thoughts of his appearance, when his friend who sat next to him
bade him be of good cheer, for that he would take the fault on himself. Ee
kept his word accordingly. As soon as they were grown up to be men, the civil
war broke out, in which our two friends took the opposite sides ; one of them
followed the Parliament, the other the Royal party.

'As their tempers were different, the youth who had torn the curtain en-
deavoured to raise himself on the civil list, and the other, who had borne the
blame of it, on the military. The first succeeded so well that he was in a short
time made a judge under the Protector. The other was engaged in the un-
happy enterprise of Penruddock and Groves in the West. . . . Every one knows
that the royal party was routed, and all the heads of them, among whom was the
curtain champion, imprisoned at Exeter. It hax)pened to be his friend's lot at
the time to go the western circuit. The trial of the rebels, as they were then
called, was very short, and nothing now remained but to pass sentence on
them ; when the judge, hearing the name of his old friend, and observing his
face more attentively . . . asked him if he was not formerly a Westminster scholar.
IJy the answer he was soon convinced that it was his former generous friend ;
and, without saying anything more at that time, made the best of his way to
London, where, employing all his power and interest with the Protector", he
saved his friend from the fate of his unhappy associates.'— Spectator, No. 313.

There is a bust of Dr. Busby in the School Library which adjoins
the schoolroom ; and a bust of Sir Francis Burdctt, given by the
Baroness Burdett Coutts, with, on the pedestal, a relief representing
his leaving the Traitors' Gate of the Tower. There are about two
hundred and forty boys at Westminster School, but of these only
forty are on the foundation ; they sleep in cubicles of the Dormi-
tory, which was built along one side of the College Garden in

Westminster

1722 from designs of Boyle, Earl of Burlington. In this Dormitory
the ' Westminster Plays ' — Latin plays of Plautus or Terence super-
seding the Catholic Mysteries — are acted by the boys on the second
Thursday in December, and the preceding and following Mondays.
The scenery was designed by Garrick : since 1839 the actors have
worn ' classical ' costume.

The most eminent Masters of Westminster have been Camden and
Dr. Busby, and in recent days, Dr. Liddell and Dr. Scott. Among
Foundation Scholars have been Bishop Overall, translator of the
Bible ; Hakluyt (Canon of Westminster), the collector of voyages ;
the poets Herbert, Cowley (who published a volume of poems while
he was at school here), Dryden, Prior, Stepney, Kowe, Churchill, and
' Vinny Bourne ; ' South, the preacher ; Locke, the philosopher ;
Bishops Atterbury, Sprat, and Pearce ; and Warren Hastings,
Governor of Bengal. Scholars, not on the foundation, include —
Lord Burghley ; Ben Jonson ; Sir Christopher Wren ; Barton Booth,
the actor ; Blackmore, Browne, Dyer, Hammond, Aaron Hill,
Cowper, Toplady, and Southey, poets ; Home Tooke ; Cumberland,
the dramatist ; Montagu, Earl of Halifax ; Gibbon, the historian ;
Jeremy Bentham ; Dr. Mead ; Sir Elijah Impey ; Samuel and
Charles Wesley ; Lord Peterborough ; Robert Harley, Earl of
Oxford; Lord Chancellor Jeffreys ; Browne Willis, the antiquarian ;
Murray, Earl of Mansfield ; Sir Francis Burdett ; Field-marshal
Lord Lucan ; William Francklin, the Orientalist ; John, Earl Russell ;
Archbishop Longley ; and Bishop Cotton.

In late years various ill-judged suggestions have been made as to
the removal of Westminster School into the country.

1 The traditions of Westminster are unique, and it is almost a public misfortune
that the school should not have proved itself equal to them. The Westminster
boy lives in the shadow of a building the history of which is an epitome of that
of England. Until the new Law Courts were completed and occupied, he had free
access to the Courts at Westminster, and he still enjoys the unparalleled privi-
lege of admission to the galleries of the House of Commons in his own right. He
can wander at will about the Abbey and its precincts, or, if of a more active turn
of mind, can attend and follow debates and watch the history of his own day.
And until very recently he could sit almost as a pupil at the feet of the leaders of
the Bar, and listen to the matured wisdom and measured utterances of the
judicial bench. . . . The historical records of Westminster are the very breath of
the life of the school.'— The Observer, May 20, 1883.

On the north of Little Dean's Yard, occupying the site of part of
the monastic building known as 'the Misericorde,' is Ashburnham
House (the property of Westminster School since 1881, and now used
for class-rooms), containing specimens of the work of every century
from the eleventh to the eighteenth inclusive. It is, however, for
the most part the work of Inigo Jones, who was employed to rebuild
it for 'Jack Ashburnham/ the trusted friend of Charles I., and faith-
ful companion of his flight from Oxford, and his escape from Hampton
Court to the Isle of Wight. The house remained the property of
the Ashburnham family till 1730, when the lease was purchased
by the Crown to secure a place for housing the Crown libraries,
including the Cottonian MSS., which had been purchased in 1706.-

Westminster School

In 1731 part of the house was destroyed by fire, when Dr. Freind
(head-master of Westminster) narrates that he saw Dr. Bentley, the
King's Librarian, in his dressing-gown and flowing wig, carrying oft
the Alexandrian MS. of the Scriptures under his arm. At the
beginning of the present century the house was inhabited by Dr.
Andrew Bell, founder of the Bell Scholarship for sons of the clergy
at Cambridge. Afterwards Henry Hart Milman resided here till his
appointment to the Deanery of St. Paul's in 1849, after which the
house passed to the late courteous and dignified Lord John Thynne.
The house has a broad, noble staircase, with a quaint circular gallery
and oval dome above, and the ceiling and decorations of the drawing-
room are beautiful specimens of Inigo Jones's work ; a small temple
summerhouse in the garden is also, but without much probability,
attributed to him. The house ' stands to modern domestic archi-
tecture as St. Stephen's Wallbrook formerly stood to ecclesiastical,
as showing the power of a master to produce in a moderate space and
with ordinary materials an effect perfectly satisfactory.' 1

The precincts of the monastery extended far beyond those of the
College, and were entered (where the Royal Aquarium now stands)
by a double Gate-house of the time of Edward III., which served
also as a gaol. One of its chambers was used as an ecclesiastical
prison, the other was the common prison of "Westminster, the pri-
soners being brought by way of Thieving Lane and Union Street, to
prevent their escaping by entering the liberties of sanctuary. Nicholas
Vaux died here of cold and starvation in 1571, a martyr in the cause
of Roman Catholicism. Hence Lady Purbeck, imprisoned for adul-
tery in 1622, escaped to France in a man's dress. It was here that
Sir Walter Raleigh passed the night before his execution, and wrote
on the blank leaf of his Bible the lines —

1 Ev'n such is Time, that takes on trust

Our youth, our joys, our all we have,
And pays us but with age and dust,

Who in the dark and silent grave,

When we have wandered all our ways,

Shuts up the story of our days.
But from this earth, this grave, this dust,
The Lord shall raise me up, I trust.'

1 Sir Walter Raleigh had the favour to be beheaded at Westminster, where he
dyed with great applause of the beholders, most constantly, most christianly,
most religiously.' — John Pym, Notebook.

Here Richard Lovelace, imprisoned for his devotion to Charles I.,
wrote —

1 Stone walls doe not a prison make,

Nor iron barres a cage ;
Minds innocent and quiet take

That for an hermitage :
If I have freedom in my love,

And in my soule am free,
Angels alone that soar above

Enjoy such libertie.'

i W. J. Loftie's History of London.

Westminster

Hampden, Sir John Eliot, and Lilly the astrologer were also im-
prisoned at different times in the Gate-house. The dwarf, Sir
Geoffrey Hudson, died here, being accused of having a share in the
Popish Plot. Being eighteen inches high, he was first brought into
notice at court by being served up in a cold pie at Burleigh to
Henrietta Maria, who took him into her service. 1 Here Savage
the poet lay under condemnation of death for the murder of Mr.
Sinclair during a riot in a public-house at Charing Cross. 2 Here
Captain Bell was imprisoned for ten years by an order of Privy
Council, but, as he believed, in order to give him time for the trans-
lation of Luther's Table Talk, to which he had been bidden by a
supernatural visitant. 3 The Gate-house was pulled down in 1776 in
consequence of the absurdity of Dr. Johnson, who declared that it
was a disgrace to the present magnificence of the capital, and
a continual nuisance to neighbours and passengers. One arch
remained till 1839, walled up in a house which had once been
inhabited by Edmund Burke.

Within the Gate-house, on the left, where the Westminster
Hospital now stands, stood 1 the Sanctuary ' — a strong square Nor-
man tower, containing two cruciform chapels, one above the other.
Here hung the bells of the Sanctuary, which it was said 1 sowered
all the drink in the town. ' The privilege of giving ' protection
from arrest to criminals and debtors was shared by many of the
great English monasteries, but few had greater opportunities of
extending their shelter than Westminster, just on the outskirts of
the capital : ' Thieving Lane ' preserved its evil memory even to our
own time.

The family of Edward IV. twice sought a refuge here, once in
1470, when the queen, Elizabeth Woodville, with her mother, her
three daughters, Elizabeth, Mary, and Cicely, and Lady Scrope,
her faithful lady in waiting, were here as the guests of Abbot Mill-
ing, till her son Edward was born on Nov. 2, 1470 — 'commonly
called Edward V., though his hand was asked but never married to
the English crown.' 4 The Abbot, the Duchess of Bedford, and Lady
Scrope stood sponsors to the prince in the Sanctuary chapel. John
Gould, a faithful butcher, voluntarily supplied the party, being 'in
deep trouble, sorrow, and heaviness,' with 'half a beef and two
muttons a week.' In 1483, after the king's death, the queen again
fled hither from the Duke of Gloucester, with all her daughters, her
elder son Dorset, and her younger son Kichard of York. Here, sorely
against her will, she was persuaded by the Archbishop of Canterbury
to give up the Duke of York, who 'was taken away on the plea that,
being a child, he was incapable of such crimes as needed sanctuary.

1 And therewithal she said unto the child, " Farewell, my own sweet son ; God
send yon good keeping. Let me kiss you once yet ere you go, for God knoweth
when we shall kiss together again ; " and therewith she kissed him and blessed
him, and turned her back and went her way, leaving the child weeping as fast'
— Sir T. 31 ore's Life of Richard III.

1 He was painted by Van Dyck, and is described by Scott in Peveril of the Peak.

2 Johnson's Life of Savage. 3 See Southey's Doctor.

4 Fuller's Worthies.

The Sanctuary

Here, while still in sanctuary, the unhappy mother heard of the
murder of her two sons in the Tower.

' It struck to her heart like the dart of death ; she was so suddenly amazed
that she swooned and fell to the ground, and lay there in great agony like to a
dead corpse. And after she was revived, and came to her memory again, she
wept and sobbed, and with pitiful screeches filled the whole mansion. Her
breast she beat, her fair hair she tore and pulled in pieces, and calling by name
her sweet babes, accounted herself mad when she delivered her younger son out
of sanctuary for his uncle to put him to death. After long lamentation, she
kneeled down and cried to God to take vengeance, "who," she said, "she nothing
doubted would remember it."'

Skelton, the poet-laureate of Henry VII., who wrote the lament
for Edward IV —

1 Oh, Lady Bessee ! long for me may ye call,
For I am departed till domesday ' —

fled hither to sanctuary from Cardinal Wolsey in the time of Henry
VIII., and remained here till his death, not all the Cardinal's influ-
ence having power to dislodge him. After the fall of the Abbey
criminals were deprived of the rights of sanctuary, but they were
retained for debtors till the time of James I. (1603), when they were
finally abolished. The building, which would have lasted for cen-
turies, was pulled down in 1750.

Within the precincts, to the right on passing the Gate-house (where
the Westminster Palace Hotel now stands), was the Almonry, possess-
ing an endowment for male pensioners from Henry VII., and for
females from his mother, the Countess of Richmond. Two chapels
were connected with it, one of which was commemorated in the
name of St. Anne's Lane. It was in the Almonry that William Cax-
ton's printing-press was established. He had previously worked in
Cologne, and it is supposed that he came to England in 1476 or
1477, when the ' Dictes and Sayings of the Philosophers ' was pro-
duced, which is generally supposed to have been his first work
printed in this country. Gower's ' Conf essio Amantis ' and Chaucer's
different poems were printed here by Caxton.

We have still left one interesting point unvisited which is
connected with the Abbey. Beyond the Infirmary Garden were
the cell of the Hermit, who, by ancient custom, was attached to
the Abbey, and the ancient tower which formerly served as the
King's Jewel House. The latter remains. Its massive rugged walls
and narrow Norman windows are best seen from the mews in
College Street, entered by the gateway on the south of Dean's
Yard. But to visit the interior it is necessary to ask permission
at 6 Old Palace Yard. The tower has been generally described as a
building of Richard II., but it was more probably only bought by him,
and it is most likely that it was one of the earliest portions of the
Abbey, and contained the primitive Refectory and Dormitory used
by the monks during the building of the principal edifice by the
Confessor. A layer of Roman tiles has been discovered in the
building.

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Westminster

The interior was evidently refitted by Abbot Litlington, and the
exceedingly beautiful vaulted room on the basement story is of his
time. The bosses of the roof are curious, especially one with a
face on every side. A small vaulted room opens out of the larger
chamber. The upper chamber of the tower, which has its noble
original chestnut roof, is now a small historical museum. Here
are some of the old standards of weights and measures — those of
Henry VII. being especially curious; the old Exchequer Tallies;
Queen Elizabeth's Standard Ell and Yard, &c. Here also are the
six horseshoes and sixty-one nails paid as rent to the Crown for a
farrier's shop in the City, which by ancient custom the sheriffs of
London are compelled to count when they are sworn in. In the
time of Edward II., when this custom was established, it was a
proof of education, as only well-instructed men could count up
to sixty-one. At the same time it was ordained that the sheriff, in
proof of strength, should cut a bundle of sticks : this custom (the
abolition of which has been vainly attempted) still exists, but a
bundle of matches (!) is now provided. The original knife always
has to be used.

There is a noble view of the Abbey from the platform on the top
of the tower. It will scarcely be credited by those who visit it,
that the destruction of this interesting building is occasionally in
contemplation, and that the present century, for the sake of making
a ' regular J street, will perhaps bear the stigma of having destroyed
one of the most precious buildings in Westminster, which, if the
houses around it were cleared away, and it were preserved as a
museum of Westminster antiquities, would be the greatest possible
addition to the group of historic buildings to which it belongs. It
was the ardent wish of Dean Stanley that a cloister, for the recep-
tion of future monuments, should be erected on the present site of
Abingdon Street, to face the Palace of Westminster on one side
and the College Gardens on the other, and that it should enclose
the Jewel Tower.

1 So long as Westminster Abbey maintains its hold on the affections or respect
of the English Church and nation, so long will it remain a standing proof that
there is in the truest feeling of human nature, and in the highest aspirations of
religion, something deeper and wider than the partial judgments of the day and
the technical distinctions of sects.'— J.. P. Stanley, Paper read before the Royal
Institution, 1886.

III. — WESTMINSTER

IMMEDIATELY facing us as we emerge from Parliament Street
is New Palace Yard, backed by Westminster Hall and the New
Houses of Parliament. They occupy the site of the palace inhabited
by the ancient sovereigns of England from early Anglo-Saxon times
till Henry VIII. w T ent to reside at Whitehall. Here they lived in
security under the shadow of the great neighbouring sanctuary, and
one after another saw arise, within the walls of their palace, those
Houses of Parliament w r hich have now swallowed up the whole.
It was here that Edward the Confessor entertained the Norman
cousin who was to succeed him, and here he died on the 5th of
January 1066. The palace was frequently afterwards enlarged and
beautified, especially by William Rufus, who built the hall ; by
Stephen, who built the chapel, to which the finishing touches were
given by Edward III. ; and by Henry VIII., who built the Star
Chamber. 'Good Queen Maude,' wife of Henry I., died here.
Edward I. w r as born, and Edward IV. died, within the walls of the
palace. The most interesting parts of the ancient building were
St. Stephen's Chapel, the Painted Chamber, and the Star Chamber.

St. Stephen's Chapel was a beautiful specimen of rich decorated
Gothic, its inner walls being covered with ancient frescoes relating
to the Old and New Testament history ; it was used as the House
of Commons from 1547 till 1834, and its walls resounded to the
eloquence of the elder and younger Pitts, Fox. Burke, Grattan, and
Canning.

The walls of the Painted Chamber were pointed out by tradition
as those of the bedroom where the Confessor died. It was first
called St. Edward's Chamber, and took its second name from the
frescoes (arranged round the w r alls in bands like the Bayeux tapestry)
with which it was adorned by Henry III., and which were chiefly
illustrative of the history of the Maccabees and the legendary life
of the Confessor. 1 Here conferences between the Lords and
Commons took place ; here the High Court of Justice sat for the
trial of Charles I. ; and here the king's death-warrant was signed
in a disgraceful scene when Cromwell and Henry Marten inked each
other's faces. It was here also that Cromwell's daughter Elizabeth
Claypole lay in state, and, long afterwards, Lord Chatham and
William Pitt.

1 They are engraved in J. T. Smith's A ntiquities of Westminster.
101

102

Westminster

The Star Chamber, which was rebuilt by Henry VIII., took its
name from the gilt stars upon its ceiling. It was the terrible
court in which the functions of prosecutor and judge were con-
founded, and where every punishment except death could be in-
flicted — imprisonment, pillory, branding, whipping, &c. It was
there that William, Bishop of Lincoln, was fined £5000 for calling
Laud 'the great Leviathan,' and that John Lilburn, after being
fined £5000, was sentenced to the pillory, and to be whipped from
Fleet Street to Westminster. On the south side of the palace was
the Chapel of Our Lady de la Pieu (des Puits ?), where Richard II.
offered to the Virgin before going to meet Wat Tyler. It was burnt
in 1452, but rebuilt by the brother of Elizabeth Woodville, Anthony,
Earl Rivers, who left his heart to be buried there.

At the end of the old palace, opening upon Old Palace Yard, was
the Prince's Chamber, built upon foundations of the Confessor's
time, with walls seven feet thick. The upper part had lancet
windows of the time of Henry III., and beneath them the quaintest
of tapestry represented the birth of Elizabeth. Beyond was the
ancient Court of Requests, hung with very curious tapestry repre-
senting the defeat of the Armada, woven at Haarlem, from designs
of Cornelius Vroom, for Lord Howard of Effingham. This was the
House of Lords till 1834. Its interior is shown in Copley's picture
of the ' Death of Lord Chatham/ who was attacked by his last ill-
ness (April 7, 1778) while declaiming against the disgrace of the
proposed motion 1 for recognising the independence of the North
American colonies.' Beneath was the cellar where Guy Fawkes
concealed the barrels of gunpowder by which the king, queen,
and peers were to be blown up. Hither, on the day before the
opening of Parliament, the Earl of Ancaster, 1 as Joint-Hereditary
Lord High Chamberlain, comes annually with torches to hunt for
the successors of Guy Fawkes. On the night of October 16, 1834,
occurred the great conflagration which was painted by Turner, and
the ancient Palace of Westminster, with St. Stephen's Chapel and
the old House of Lords, was entirely gutted by fire. 2

The immense New Palace of Westminster, containing the Houses
of Parliament, was built, at a cost of £3,000,000 (1840-59), from de-
signs of Sir Charles Barry, R.A., in the Tudor style, the architect
having been led astray by the miniature chapel of Henry VII. 3
The florid wall decoration, so suitable in the smaller building, is
excessive in so vast a palace. It is twice the size of the old
palace, and is one of the largest gothic buildings in the world.
The interior is of Caen stone, but the exterior is constructed of

1 Son of Lady Willoughby d'Eresby, representative of the Berties, Dukes of
Ancaster, descendants of Aubrey de Ver, who held the office in 1100, nearly 800
years ago.

2 The fire began in the rooms adjacent to the House of Lords, amid the piles of
tellies which were preserved there — pieces of stick upon which the primitive
accounts of the House were kept by notches.

3 Barry was compelled to adopt gothic designs at Westminster: that he was a
really great architect in the Italian style, Bridgewater House and the Reform
Club sufficiently prove.

Westminster Palace

103

magnesian limestone, from the Yorkshire quarries of Anston, which is
such perishable material that it costs the nation £2000 a year to keep
it in repair. The style was much admired in the middle of this
century, but has already ceased to be tolerated. Details similar to
those of many of the Belgian town-halls are introduced in the exterior
of the building, which is, however, so wanting in bold lines and
characteristic features, that no one would think of comparing it
for beauty with the halls of Brussels, Ypres, or Louvain, though
its towers group well at a distance, and especially from the river.
Of these towers it has three — the Central Tower over the octagon
hall ; the Clock Tower (320 feet high, occupying nearly the same
site as the ancient clock tower of Edward I., where the ancient
Great Tom of Westminster for 400 years sounded the hours to the
judges of England 1 ); and the Victoria Toiver (75 feet square and
336 feet high). This is the royal entrance to the House of Lords.
Over the arch of the gate is the statue of Queen Victoria, supported
by figures of Justice and Mercy ; at the sides her parents, the Duke
and Duchess of Kent, are commemorated, and other members of
her family, who, in accordance with the intensely Tudor style of
the building, are all arrayed in the stiff garments of that period.
The statues of the kings and queens of England from Saxon times
are the principal external ornaments of the rest of the palace.

New Palace Yard was formerly entered by four gateways, the
finest being the 'High Gate ' on the west, built by Kichard II., and
only destroyed under Anne. On the left, where the Star Chamber
stood, is now the House of the Speaker, an office which dates from
the reign of Edward III. ; the first Speaker being Sir Peter de la
Mare, leader of the Good Parliament, 137G, and of the first Parlia-
ment of Kichard II., 1377. On its south side, Westminster Hall
faces us with its great door and window between two square towers,
and above, the high gable of the roof, upon which the heads of
Oliver Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw were set up on the Restora-
tion. The head of Cromwell still exists in the possession of Mr.
Horace Wilkinson, Sevenoaks, Kent.

On Westminster Hall —

Ireton's head in the middle, and Cromwell's and Bradshaw's on either side.
Cromwell's head being embalmed, remained exposed to the atmosphere for
twenty-five years, and then one stormy night it was blown down, and picked up
by the sentry, who hiding it under his cloak, took it home and secreted it in the
chimney corner ; and, as inquiries were constantly being made about it by the
Government, it was only on his death-bed that he revealed where he had hidden

i It was this clock which once struck thirteen at midnight with the effect of
saving a man's life. John Hatfield, sentry on the terrace at Windsor in the
reign of William and Mary, being accused of having fallen asleep at his post,
and tried by court-martial, solemnly denied the charge, declaring, as proof of
his being awake, that he heard Great Tom strike thirteen, which was doubted
on account of the great distance. But while he was under sentence of death,
an affidavit was made by several persons that the clock actually did strike
thirteen instead of twelve, whereupon he received the king's pardon. The
lanthorn at the summit of the Clock Tower is only lighted at night when the
House is sitting. During the day- sittings the Union Flag flies from the flagstaff
on the Victoria Tower.

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Westminster

it. His family sold the head to one of the Cambridgeshire Russells, and, in the
same box in which it still is, it descended to a certain Samuel Russell, who, being
a needy and careless man, exhibited it in a place near Clare Market. There it
was seen by James Cox, who then owned a famous museum. He tried in vain to
buy the head from Russell, for poor as he was, nothing would at first tempt him
to part with the relic, but after a time Cox assisted him with money, and eventu-
ally, to clear himself from debt, he made the head over to Cox. When Cox at
last parted with his museum, he sold the head of Cromwell for £230 to three
men, who bought it about the time of the French Revolution to exhibit in Mead
Court, Bond Street, at half a crown a head. Curiously enough, it happened that
each of these three gentlemen died a sudden death, and the head came into the
possession of the three nieces of the last man who died. These young ladies,
nervous at keeping it in the house, asked Mr. Wilkinson, their medical man, to
take care of it for them, and they subsequently sold it to him. For the next fifteen
or twenty years Mr. Wilkinson was in the habit of showing it to all the dis-
tinguished men of that day ; and the head, much treasured, remains in the
family.

' The circumstantial evidence is very curious. It is the only head in history
which is known to have been embalmed and afterwards beheaded. On the back
of the neck, above the vertebrae, is the mark of the cut of an axe where the
executioner, having, perhaps, no proper block, had struck too high, and, laying
the head in its soft embalmed state on the block, flattened the nose on one side,
making it adhere to the face. The hair grows promiscuously about the face, and
the beard, stained to exactly the same colour by the embalming liquor, is tucked
up under the chin with the oaken staff of the spear with which the head was
stuck upon Westminster Hall, which staff is perforated by a worm that never
attacks oak until it has been for many years exposed to the weather. The iron
spear-head, where it protrudes above the skull, is rusted away by the action of
the atmosphere. The jagged way in which the top of the skull is removed throws
us back to the time when surgery was in its infancy, while the embalming is so
beautifully done that the cellular process of the gums and the membrane of the
tongue are still to be seen.' — Letter signed ' Senex,' Times, Dec. 31, 1874.

It was in the yard in front of Westminster Hall that Edward I.
(1297), when leaving for Flanders, publicly recommended his son
Edward to the love of his people. Here Perkin Warbeck (1497) was
set a whole day in the stocks. On the same spot, Thomas Lovelace
(1587) was pilloried by an order from the Star Chamber, and had
one of his ears cut off. Here (1630) Alexander Leighton (the father
of the Archbishop) was not only pilloried, but publicly whipped, for
a libel on the queen and the bishops. Here also William Prynne
(1636), for his pamphlet 1 News from Ipswich,' was put in the
pillory, branded on both cheeks with the letters S. L. (seditious
libeller), and lost one of his ears. And here the Duke of Hamilton,
Lord Capel, and Henry Rich, Earl of Holland, were beheaded for
the cause of Charles I. The wool market established by Edward
III. in 1353, when the wearing of woollen cloths was first introduced
into England by John Kempe, was moved by Richard II. from
Staple Inn to New Palace Yard, where a portion of the trade was
still carried on in the fifteenth century. For many years, before
the porch where we are standing, daily, in term time, used to be
seen the mule of Cardinal Wolsey (who rode hither from York
Place), ' being trapped all in crimson velvet, with a saddle of the
same stuffe and gilt stirrupts.'

Westminster Hall, first built by William Ruf us, was almost rebuilt
by Richard II., who added the noble chestnut roof which we now
see. His architect was the same Henry Yeveley who designed the

Westminster Hall

105

tomb of Kichard and his queen. On the frieze beneath the gothic
windows his badge, the white hart couchant, is repeated over and
over again. The Hall, which is 270 feet long and 74 feet broad,
forms a glorious vestibule' to the modern Houses of Parliament,
and its southern extremity with the fine staircase was added when
they were built. In its long existence the Hall has witnessed more
tragic scenes than any building in England except the Tower of
London. Sir William Wallace was condemned to death here in
1305, and Sir John Oldcastle the Wycliffite in 1418. In 1517 three
queens — Katherine of Arragon, Margaret of Scotland, and Mary of
France — 'long upon their knees,' here 'begged pardon of Henry
VIII. for the 480 men and eleven women accused of being concerned
in "the Rising of the Prentices," and obtained their forgiveness.'
Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham, was tried here and con-
demned in 1522, and, on hearing his sentence, pronounced the
touching speech which is familiar to thousands in the words of
Shakspeare. 1 Here, May 7, 1535, Sir Thomas More was condemned
to death, when his son, breaking through the guards and flinging
himself on his breast, implored to share his fate. Here Fisher,
Bishop of Rochester (1535) ; the Protector Somerset (1552) ; Sir
Thomas Wyatt (1554) ; Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk (for the
sake of Mary of Scotland, 1572) ; Philip, Earl of Arundel (1589) ;
Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (1601), and Henry Wriothesley, Earl
of Southampton (1600), were condemned to the block, though the
two last were never executed. Here sentence was passed upon the
conspirators of the Gunpowder Plot in 1606, and on the Duke and
Duchess of Somerset for the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury in
1616. Here, concealed behind the tapestry of a dark cabinet (1641),
Charles I. and Henrietta Maria were present through the eighteen
days' trial of Thomas Wentworth, Earl of Strafford. In the same
place Charles himself appeared as a prisoner on January 20, 1649, with
the banners taken at the battle of Naseby hanging over his head. 2

'Bradshaw, in a scarlet robe, and covered by his "broad-brimmed hat,"
placed himself in a crimson velvet chair in the centre of the court, with a desk
and velvet cushion before him ; Say and Lisle on each side of him ; and the two
clerks of the court sitting below him, at a table covered with rich Turkey carpet,
on which were laid the sword of state and the mace. The rest of the court, with
their hats on, took their seats on side benches, hung with scarlet, . . . During the
reading of the charge the King sat entirely unmoved in his chair, looking some-
times to the court and sometimes to the galleries. Occasionally he rose up and
turned about to behold the guards and spectators, and then sat down again,
but with a majestical composed countenance, unruffled by the slightest emo-
tion, till the clerk came to the words Charles Stuart, as a tyrant, traitor,
murderer, &c. ; at which the king laughed, as he sat, in the face of the court.
The silver head of his staff happened to fall off, at which he appeared surprised ;
Herbert, who stood near him, offered to pick it up, but Charles, seeing he could
not reach it, stooped for it himself, when the words were read seating the
charge to be exhibited " on behalf of the people of England," a voice, in a loud
tone, called out, " No, nor the half of the people— it is false— where are they or
their consents ?— Oliver Cromwell is a traitor." This occasioned a confusion in
the court ; Colonel Axtell even commanded the soldiers to fire into the box from

1 Henry VIII. , Act ii. sc. 1.

2 Westminster Hall, by Edward Eoss.

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Westminster

which the voice proceeded. But it was soon discovered that these words, as well
as a former exclamation on calling Fairfax's name, v. ere uttered by Lady Fairfax,
the General's wife, who was immediately compelled by the guard to withdraw.' —
Trial of Charles I., Family Library, xxxi.

The sentence against the King was pronounced on the 27th of
January : —

' The King, who during the reading of the sentence had smiled, and more than
once lifted his eyes to heaven, then said, " Will you hear me a word, sir?"
' Braclshaw. Sir, you are not to be heard after the sentence.
' The King. No, sir ?

' Bradshaw. No, sir, by your favour. — Guards, withdraw your prisoner.

'The King. I may speak after the sentence, by your favour, sir. I may

speak after the sentence, ever. By your favour

' Bradshaw. Hold !

' The King. The sentence, sir. I say, sir, I do

' Bradshaiv. Hold !

1 The King. I am not suffered to speak. Expect what justice other people will
have.' — Trial of Charles I.

In 1680 Viscount Stafford was condemned in Westminster Hall for
alleged participation in the Eoman Catholic plot of Titus Oates.
On June 15, 1688, the Hall witnessed the memorable scene which
ended in the triumphant acquittal of the Seven Bishops. In 1699,
Edward, Earl of Warwick, was tried here for manslaughter. Lords
Kenmure and Derwentwater, Carnwath and Nithsdale, Widdring-
ton and Nairne, were condemned here for rebellion in 1716, and
Cromartie, Balmerino, and Kilmarnock in 1746, their trial being
followed eight months later by that of the aged Lord Lovat. In
1760 Lawrence Shirley, Earl Ferrers, was condemned here to be
hanged for the murder of his servant. In 1765 Lord Byron was
tried here for the murder of Mr. Chaworth ; and in 1776 Elizabeth
Chudleigh, Duchess of Kingston, was tried here for bigamy. In
1788 occurred the trial of Warren Hastings, so eloquently described
by Macaulay. 1 The last trial here was that of Lord Melville in 1806.

But Westminster Hall has other associations besides those of its
great trials. It was here that Henry III. saw the archbishops and
bishops hurl their lighted torches upon the ground, and call down
terrific anathemas upon those who should break the charter he had
sworn to observe. Here Edward III. received the Black Prince
when he returned to England with King John of France as a
prisoner after the battle of Poitiers. Hither came the English
barons with the Duke of Gloucester to denounce Robert de Vere,
Duke of Ireland, to Richard II. ; and here, when Richard abdicated,
Henry Bolingbroke claimed the throne of England as descended by
right line of blood from Henry III. 2

Westminster Hall was the scene of all the Coronation banquets
from the time of William Rufus to that of George IV. On these
occasions, ever since the reign of Richard II., the gates have been

1 John Thomas, Earl of Cardigan, was tried by his peers for duelling, Feb-
ruary 16, 1841, but in the House of Lords.

2 Shakspeare in his Richard II. makes the King pronounce his abdication at
this scene,

Westminster Hall

107

suddenly flung open, and, amid a blare of trumpets, the Royal
Champion (always a Dymok or Dymoke of Scrivelsby) rides into the
hall in full armour, and, hurling his mailed gauntlet upon the
ground, defies to single combat any person who shall gainsay the
rights of the sovereign. This ceremony having been thrice repeated
as the champion advances up the hall, the sovereign pledges him in
a silver cup, which he afterwards sends to him.
On ordinary days —

1 The great Hall of Westminster, the field
Where mutual frauds are fought, and no side yield,' 1

has, for many years, been almost given up to the lawyers. Nothing
in England astonished Peter the Great more than the number of
lawyers he saw here. 'Why,' he said, 'I have only two lawyers
in all my dominions, and I mean to hang one of those when I get
home.'

The Law Courts, of which Sir E. Coke says, ' No man can tell which
is the most ancient,' occupied buildings, from the designs of Sir
John Soane, on the west side of the Hall. These were condemned
upon the completion of the New Law Courts at Temple Bar and re-
moved 1883. They were the Court of Queen's I3ench — presided over
by the Lord Chief Justice, and used by the Masters in Chancery, so
called from the cancclli, open screens, which separated it from the
Hall — the Court of Wards and Liveries, the Court of Request s, the Bail
Court, and the Court of Common Pleas, presided over by the Chief
Justice, where the great Tichborne case was tried, 1871-72. Up to
the reign of Mary I. the judges rode to the Courts of Westminster
upon mules. Men used to walk about in the Hall to seek employ-
ment as hired witnesses, and shamelessly drew attention to their
calling by a straw in their shoes. In the time when Sir Thomas
More was presiding in the Court of Chancery, his father, Sir John
More, was sitting in the Court of King's Bench, and daily, before
commencing his duties, he used to cross the Hall to ask his father's
blessing. The Exchequer Court at Westminster was originally
divided by the Hall, the pleading part being on one side, the paying
part on the other.

' The proverb— " As sure as Exchequer pay "—was in the prime thereof in the
reign of Queen Elizabeth, who maintained her Exchequer to the height, that her
Exchequer might maintain her. The pay was sure inwards, nothing being re-
mitted which was due there to the queen ; and sure outwards, nothing being
detained which was due thence from the queen, full and speedy payment being
made thereof. This proverb began to be crost about the end of the reign of
King James, when the credit of the Exchequer began to decay ; and no wonder
if the streams issuing thence were shallow, when the fountain to feed them was
so low, the revenues of the Crown being much abated.'— Fuller's Worthies.

When the Law Courts were removed, the west side of the Hall
was exposed, showing a Norman wall and dilapidated flying but-
tress. These are preserved, but so modernised as to be valueless.

i Ben Jonson.

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Westminster

(The Interior of the Houses of Parliament is shown on Saturdays from ten to
four by tickets obtained gratis at the entrance on the west side adjacent to the
Victoria Tower.

Strangers may be present to hear debates in the House of Lords by a Peer's
order, or in the House of Commons by an order from any member or the Speaker.
Each member may give one order daily.)

The Hall of William Rufus is now merged in the huge palace of
Barry, to whom one has to be grateful for its preservation, and for
having worked it into his new design. A door on the east side of
the Hall forms the members' approach to the House of Commons.
It leads into the fan-roofed galleries which represent the restored
cloisters of 1350. A beautiful little oratory projects into the court-
yard and the enclosure. Here it is believed that several of the
signatures were affixed to the death-warrant of Charles I. The
ancient door of the oratory has only recently been removed. Hence
we enter the original Crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel ('St. Mary's
Chapel in the Vaults'), which dates from 1292, and has escaped
the two fires which have since consumed the chapel above. While
it was being restored as the Chapel of the House of Commons, an
embalmed body of a priest holding a pastoral staff was found, and
was re-interred in the north cloister of the Abbey. It was supposed
to be the body of William Lyndvvoode, Bishop of St. David's (1446),
who founded a chantry here. The chapel is now gorgeous and
gaudy, gilt and painted, a blaze of modern glass and polished
glazed tiles, and is deprived of all that made it interesting and
important.

The staircase at the south end of Westminster Hall leads to St.
Stephen's Hall (95 ft. by 30, and 56 high), which occupies the site of
the old House of Commons. It is decorated with statues : —

Burke— Theed.
Grattan — Careiv.
Pitt — Macdowell.
Fox—Baily.
Mansfield — Baity.
Chatham— M acdowell.
Sir Eobert Walpole— Bell.
Lord Somers— Marshall.
lord Clarendon — Marshall.
Lord Falkland— Bell.
Hampden— Foley.
Selden— Foley.

It was by the door near Burke's statue that John Bellingham, the
disappointed Russia merchant, waited, May 11, 1812, to murder
Spencer Perceval.

Hence we enter the Central Hall, an octagon measuring 70 feet,
adorned with statues of kings and queens. This hall is remarkable
as one of the most successful attempts ever made to build a gothic
dome. On the left opens the Commons' Corridor, adorned with
frescoes by E. M. Ward, viz. : —

Alice Lisle helping fugitives to escape after the Battle of Sedgemoor.
Jane Lane helping Charles II. to escape after the Battle of Worcester.
The Last Sleep of Argyll.

The House of Commons

109

The Executioner tying Wishart's book round the neck of Montrose.
The Lords and Commons presenting the crown to William and Mary in the
Banqueting House.
The Landing of Charles II. at Dover, May 26, 1660.
The Acquittal of the Seven Bishops.
Monk declaring for a Free Parliament.

Hence we enter the Lobby of the House of Commons. On the left,
facing the river, are -the luxurious rooms of the Library, where
members write their letters and concoct their speeches.

The House of Commons, 'the principal chamber of the manu-
factory of statute law/ 1 only measures 75 feet by 45, the smallest size
possible, for the sake of hearing, its architectural beauty as origin-
ally designed by Barry having been entirely sacrificed to sound.
At the north end is the Speaker's chair, beneath which is the
clerk's table ; at the south end of the table, on brackets, lies the
mace, which was made at the Restoration in place of ' the fool's
bauble ' which Cromwell ordered to be taken away. The Ministerial
benches are on the right of the Speaker, and the leaders of the
Opposition sit opposite. Behind the Speaker is the Gallery for the
Reporters of the Press, £ the men for whom and to whom Parlia-
ment talks so lengthily ; the filter through which the senatorial
eloquence is percolated for the public' 2 On either side of the
House are the division lobbies, the 4 Ayes ' on the west, the ' Noes '
on the east.

Returning to the Central Hall, the stairs on the left, adorned
with a statue of Barry (1795-1860), lead to the Lobby of the
Committee Rooms, decorated with frescoes of the English poets.

The Peers' Corridor is lined with frescoes by E. W. Cope : —

Lenthall asserting the privileges of the Commons against Charles I.
Charles I. erecting his standard at Nottingham.

The Setting out of the Train Bands from London to relieve Gloucester.
The Defence of Basing House by the Cavaliers.
The Embarkation of the Pilgrim Fathers.

The Expulsion of the Fellows of Magdalen for refusing to sign the Covenant,
The Parting of Lord and Lady Russell.
The Burial of Charles I.

On the right is the Standing Order Committee Room, used for
conferences between the Houses of Lords and Commons. It
contains the beautiful fresco of ' the Delivery of the Law by Moses,'
by Herbert. Its execution occupied seven years, in compliance with
the theory of the artist, ' If you paint when you are not inclined,
you only spoil art.'

The House of Lords (100 ft. by 45), overladen with painting and
gilding, has a flat roof, and stained glass windows filled with
portraits of kings and queens. The seats for the peers (for 235) are
arranged longitudinally, the Government side being to the right of
the throne, and the bishops nearest the throne. At the north end,
below the Strangers' Gallery, is the dwarf screen of the bar, where

1 Quarterly Review, clxxxix.

2 Ibid.

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Westminster

witnesses are examined and culprits tried. Here the Speaker and
members of the House of Commons appear with a tumultuous rush
when they are summoned to hear the Queen's speech. Near the
centre of the House is the Woolsack, covered with crimson cloth,
with cushions, whence the Lord Chancellor reads prayers at the
opening of the debates. The Princess of Wales sits here at the
opening of Parliament, facing the throne.

The Queen enters from the Prince's Chamber preceded by heralds
and takes her seat here, the Mistress of the Eobes and a Lady of
the Bedchamber standing behind her, when the Lord Chancellor,
kneeling, presents the Speech. The throne is so placed, at the
south end of the House, that, if all the doors were open, the Speaker
of the House of Commons would be seen from it.

' Thus at a prorogation the Queen on her throne and the Speaker in his chair
face each other at a distance of some four hundred and fifty feet, and the eager-
ness of the Commons in their race from their own House to the bar of the Lords
has more than once amused their Sovereign Lady. It used to be an open race,
but the start is now so managed that the Speaker and the parliamentary leaders
first " touch wood," as schoolboys say.' — Quarterly Review, clxxxix.

The frescoes above the throne are —

Edward III. conferring the Garter on the Black Prince. E. W. Cope.
The Baptism of Ethelbert. W. Dyce.

Prince Henry condemned by Judge Gascoigne. E. W. Cope.

Over the Strangers' Gallery are —

The Spirit of Justice. D. Maclise.
The Spirit of Religion. J. C. Horsley.
The Spirit of Chivalry. D. Maclise.

On the south of the House of Lords is the Prince's Chamber,
containing a very fine statue of Queen Victoria, supported by
Judgment and Mercy, by Gibson. This is approached from the
Victoria Gate by the Royal Gallery, containing Maclise s frescoes of
the death of Nelson and meeting of Blucher and Wellington.
When the Queen consents to arrive by the Victoria Gate, this
gallery is crowded with ladies to see the procession pass. At its
south end is the Queen's Robing-Room, lined with frescoes from the
story of King Arthur by Dyce, left unfinished by the death of the
artist. This room is the best in the palace both in proportion and
decoration. In a small room adjoining, used for committees, is a
painted copy of a lost tapestry from the Painted Chamber, repre-
senting the English fleet pursuing the Spanish fleet at Fowey.

The Victoria Tower is approached by the open space known as
Old Palace Yard, where Chaucer lived, and probably died, in a
house the site of which is now occupied by Henry VII. 's Chapel.
Ben Jonson also died in a house here. It was here that the con-
spirators of the Gunpowder Plot suffered death, opposite to the
windows of the house through which they carried the gunpowder
into the vaults under the House of Lords.

' The next day, being Friday, were drawn from the Tower to the Old Palace
Yard in Westminster, Thomas Winter, Rookewood, Keyes, and Faukes. Winter

Old Palace Yard

111

went first up the scaffold, and protested that he died a true Catholick : with a
very pale face and dead colour, he went up the ladder, and after a swing or
two with the halter, to the quartering block was drawn, and there quickly
despatched.

'Next came Rookewood, who protested to die in his idolatry a Romish
Catholick, went up the ladder, hanging till he was almost dead, then was drawn
to the block, where he gave up his last gasp.

' Then came Keyes, who was so sturdy a villain that he would not wait the
hangman's turn, but turned himself off with such a leap that he broke the
halter with the swing ; but after his fall he was drawn to the block, and there
his bowels withdrawn, and he was divided into four parts.

'Last of all came the great devil of all, Guy Faukes, alias Johnson, who
should have put fire to the powder. His body being weak with the torture and
sickness, he was scarce able to go up the ladder, yet with much ado, by the help
of the hangman, went high enough to break his neck by the fall. He made no
speech, but with his crosses and idle ceremonies made his end upon the gallows
and the block, to the great joy of all beholders that the land was ended of so
wicked a villainy.' — The Weekeley Newes, Munday, 3lst Jan. 1606.

' The men who contrived, the men who prepared, the men who sanctioned,
this scheme of assassination were, one and all, of Protestant birth. Father
Persons was Protestant born. Father Owen and Father Garnet were Protestants
born. From what is known of Winter's early life, it may be assumed that he
was a Protestant. Catesby and Wright had been Protestant boys. Guy Faukes
had been a Protestant, Percy had been a Protestant. The minor persons were
like their chiefs— apostates from their early faith, with the moody weakness
which is an apostate's inspiration and his curse. Tresham was a convert —
Monteagle was a convert— Digby was a convert. Thomas Morgan, Robert Kay,
and Kit Wright, were all converts. The five gentlemen who dug the mine in
Palace-yard were all of English blood and of Protestant birth. But they were
converts and fanatics, observing no law save that of their own passions ; men
of whom it should be said, in justice to all religions, that they no more dis-
graced the Church which they entered than that which they had left.' — Hepworth
Dixon.

Here, October 29, 1618, being Lord Mayor's Day, Sir Walter
Raleigh was led to execution at eight o'clock in the morning, and
said, as he playfully touched the axe, ' This is a sharp medicine, but
it will cure all diseases.'

'His death was managed by him with so high and religious a resolution, as if
a Roman had acted a Christian, or rather a Christian a Roman.' — Osborne.

Sir Walter's head was preserved by Lady Raleigh in a glass case
during the twenty-nine years through which she survived him, and
afterwards by her son Carew : with him it is believed to be buried
at Horsley in Surrey.

In front of the Palace stands the equestrian statue of Richard Coeur
de Lion by Marochetti — a poor work, the action of the figure being
quite inconsistent with that of the horse.

The Church of St. Margaret, Westminster, is the especial church
of the House of Commons, and, except tfce Abbey and St. Paul's,
has the oldest foundation in London, having been founded by the
Confessor, and dedicated to Margaret, the martyr of Antioch, partly
to divert to another building the crowds who inundated the Abbey
church, and partly for the benefit of the multitude of refugees in
Sanctuary.

The church was rebuilt in the time of Edward L, again was re-
edified in the time of Edward IV. by Sir Thomas Billing and his
wife Lady Mary, and, after many minor alterations, was completely

112

Westminster

remodelled internally, 1877-78, with the usual vulgarities of glazed
tiles, &c. , and with ludicrous disregard to the historic interest of
its monuments, the greater portion of which are let into the wall
close to the roof, where of course their inscriptions cannot be read.
The pleasing but incongruous porch was added in 1891. In this
church the Fast Day Sermons were preached in the reign of
Charles I. ; and here both Houses of Parliament, with the Assembly
of Divines and the Scots Commissioners, met Sept. 25, 1643, and
were prepared by prayer for taking the Covenant.

1 Then Mr. Nye in the pulpit read the Covenant, and all present held up their
hands in testimony of their assent to it ; and afterwards in the several Houses
subscribed their names in a parchment roll, where the Covenant was written :
the Divines of the Assembly, and the Scots Commissioners likewise subscribed
the Covenant, and then Dr. Gouge in the pulpit prayed for a blessing upon it.'—
Whitelocke.

Here Hugh Peters, 'the pulpit buffoon,' denounced Charles as 'the
great Barabbas at Windsor,' and urged Parliament to bring the King
' to condign, speedy, and capital punishment.' ' My lords,' he said,
1 and you, noble gentlemen of the House of Commons, you are the
Sanhedrim, and the great Council of the nation, therefore you must
be sure to do justice. Do not prefer the great Barabbas, Murderer,
Tyrant, and Traitor, before these poor hearts (pointing to the red-
coats), and the army, who are our Saviours.' 1

Amongst the Puritans who preached here were ' Calamy, Vines,
Nye, Manton, Marshall, Gauden, Owen, Burgess, Newcomen,
Keynolds, Cheynell, Baxter, Case (who censured Cromwell to his
face, and when discoursing before General Monk, cried out, " There
are some who will betray three kingdoms for filthy lucre's sake,"
and threw his handkerchief into the General's pew) ; the critical
Lightfoot ; Taylor, " the illuminated Doctor ; " and Goodwyn, " the
windmill with a weathercock upon the top." ' 2

In later times the rival divines Burnet and Sprat preached here
before Parliament in the same morning.

1 Burnet and Sprat were old rivals. There prevailed in those days an indecent
custom : when the preacher touched any favourite topic in a manner that
delighted his audiences, their approbation was expressed by a loud hum,
continued in proportion to their zeal or pleasure. When Burnet preached,
part of his congregation hummed so loudly and so long, that he sat down to
enjoy it, and rubbed his face with his handkerchief. When Sprat preached,
he likewise was honoured with a like animating hum, but he stretched out his
hand to the congregation, and cried, "Peace, peace, I pray you, peace!'"—
Dr. Johnson.

Sir John Jekyl told Speaker Onslow, in proof of Burnet's popularity,
that one day when he was present the Bishop preached out his hour-
glass before exhausting his subject. ' He took it up, and held it
aloft in his hand, and then turned it up for another hour; upon V-3
which the audience set up almost a shout of joy ! '

1 Evidence of Beaver in the trial of Hugh Peters.

2 Walcott's Westminster.

St. Margaret's, Westminster

113

It was in St. Margaret's that Dr. Sacheverell preached his first
sermon after his suspension, on Palm Sunday, 1713.

The most important feature of the church is the east window,
justly cited by Winston, the great authority on stained glass, as the
most beautiful work as regards harmonious arrangement of colour-
ing with which he is acquainted. It is said to have been ordered
by Ferdinand and Isabella to be executed at Gouda in Holland, 1
and was intended as a gift to the new chapel which Henry VII.
was going to build, upon the marriage of their daughter Katherine
with his eldest son Arthur. But the execution of the window occu-
pied five years, and before it was finished Prince Arthur was dead
(in 1502). The chapel, only begun in 1502, was not ready to receive
it, and, as the window contained a representation of Prince Arthur,
Henry VIII. gave it away to Waltham Abbey. Thence, on the Dis-
solution, the last abbot sent it for safety to his private chapel at
New Hall, an estate which was afterwards purchased by Sir Thomas
Boleyn, father of Queen Anne. The window remained at New Hall
till the place became the property of General Monk, who took down
the window and buried it, to preserve it from the Puritans, but re-
placed it in his chapel at the Kestoration. After his death the
chapel was pulled down, but the window was preserved, and was
eventually purchased by Mr. Conyers, of Copt Hall in Essex, by
whose son it was sold in 1758 to the churchwardens of St. Margaret's
for £400. 2 Even then the window was not suffered to rest in peace,
as the Dean and Chapter of Westminster looked upon it as 'a
superstitious image and picture,' and brought a lawsuit for its re-
moval, which, after having been fought for seven years, happily
failed in the end. 3

The window represents — on a deep blue background — the Cruci-
fixion. As in many old Italian pictures, angels are catching the
blood which flows from the Saviour's wounds ; the soul of the
penitent thief is received by an angel, while the soul of the bad
thief is carried off by a demon. At the foot of the cross kneels on
one side Arthur, Prince of Wales, and his patron St. George, and the
red and white roses of his parents over his head ; on the other,
Katherine of Arragon, with St. Catherine of Alexandria above her,
and the pomegranate of Granada.

Over the altar is the Supper at Emmaus, executed in lime-wood, in
1735, by Aiken ofSoho, from the Titian in the Louvre. South of the
altar is the tomb of Dame Mary Billing (1499) and her husband, Sir
Thomas, Lord Chief Justice of England, by whom the church was ' re-
edified ' in the reign of Edward IV. Near the north-western entrance
was, till 1878, a beautiful carved sixteenth-century seat, where a
loaf of bread and sixpence were given every Sunday to sixteen poor
widows, in accordance with the will of Mrs. Joyce Goddard, 1621.

1 Although Gouda only attained its fame in consequence of the work of the
Crabettes, executed after the middle of the sixteenth century.

2 Walcott's Westminster.

3 In memory of this triumph the then churchwarden presented to the parish
the beautiful ' Loving Cup of St. Margaret.'

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Westminster

This noble specimen of old woodwork, nearly the finest in London,
and one of the most remarkable pieces of church furniture in England,
was wantonly broken up and used to eke out some indifferent w r ork
at the re-modelling of the church, in spite of the local interest
attached to it ! At this angle of the church is the mural monument
of Mrs. Elizabeth Corbett (who died of cancer), with Pope's famous
epitaph —

' Here rests a woman, good without pretence,
Blest with plain reason, and with sober sense :
No conquest she but o'er herself desired,
No arts essayed, but not to be admired :
Passion and pride were to her soul unknown ;
Convinced that virtue only is our own :
So unaffected, so composed a mind,
So firm yet soft, so strong yet so refined,
Heaven, as its purest gold, by tortures tried ;—
The saint sustain'd it, but the woman died.'

1 1 have always considered this as the most valuable of all Pope's epitaphs ; the
subject of it is a character not discriminated by any shining or eminent pecu-
liarities ; yet that which really makes, though not the splendour, the felicity of
life, and that which every wise man will choose for his friend and lasting com-
panion in the languor of age, in the quiet of privacy, when he departs weary and
disgusted from the ostentatious, the volatile, and the vain. Of such a character,
which the dull overlook, and the gay despise, it was fit that the value should be
made known, and the dignity established. Domestic virtue, as it is exerted
without great occasions or conspicuous consequences, in an even tenor, required
the genius of Pope to display it in such a manner as might attract regard and
enforce reverence. Who can forbear to lament that this amiable woman has no
name in the verse?' — Dr. Johnson.

Also at the west end of the church are the monuments of James
Palmer, 1566, and Emery Hill, 1677, founders of the Almshouses
which are called by their names. In the north aisle is the curious
but much-injured Flemish monument and bust of Cornelius Van Dun
of Breda, 1577, builder of the almshouses in Petty France — ' souldier
with King Henry at Turney, Yeoman of the Guard, and Usher to
King Henry, King Edward, Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth : a
careful man for poore folk, who in the end of this toune did build
for poore widowes twenty houses, of his owne cost.' Another monu-
ment, with quaint verses, commemorates 8 the late deceased virgin,
Mistris Elizabeth Hereicke.' Near the north-east door is the monu-
ment of Mrs. Joane Harnett, 1674, who sold oatmeal cakes by the
church door, and left money for a sermon and the maintenance of
poor widows. In the north-eastern corner are many monuments
with effigies offering interesting examples of costume of the time of
James I., and that to Lady Dorothy Stafford, 1604, whose mother
Ursula was daughter of the famous Countess of Salisbury, the only
daughter of George, Duke of Clarence, brother of King Edward IV.
— 'She served Queen Elizabeth forty years, lying in the bed-
chamber, esteemed of her, loved of all, doing good all she could, a
continual remembrancer of the suite of the poor.' 1 Blanche Parry e,

i Sir Edward Stafford, son of Lady Dorothy, married Douglas, Lady Sheffield,,
who was supposed at that time to have already contracted a secret marriage with
Elizabeth's Earl of Leicester, and who was the mother of a son by Leicester.

St. Margaret's, Westminster

115

chief gentlewoman to Queen Elizabeth, has a monument, 1589. A
tablet, with a relief of his death, commemorates Sir Peter Parker,
1814. Here also are the * State Arms ' put up in the church under
Puritan rule, but a crown has been added.

In the chancel is buried John Shelton, 1529, the satirical poet-
laureate, called by Erasmus ' Britannicarum literarum lumen et
decus,' who died in Sanctuary, to which he was driven by the
enmity of Wolsey, excited by his squibs on bad customs and bad
clergy. Near him (not in the porch) rests another court poet of
Henry VIII. and Elizabeth — Thomas Churchyard, 1604, whose ad-
venturous life was one long romance. His best work was his
'Legende of Jane Shore.' 'He was one of those unfortunate men
who wrote poetry all his days, and lived a long life, to complete his
misfortune.' 1 Camden gives his epitaph, which has disappeared. 2
Near these graves is that of James Harrington, 1677, author of the
republican romance called ' Oceana.' Here also was buried Milton's
beloved second wife, Catherine Woodcoche (Feb. 10, 1658), who died
in childbirth fifteen months after her marriage to the poet. 3

Near the south-eastern entrance even a nineteenth - century
' restoration ' has spared the stately tomb of Marie, Lady Dudley,
1600: — 'She was grandchilde to Thomas Duke of Norfolke, the
second of that surname, and sister to Charles Howard, Earl of
Nottingham, Lord High Admiral of England, by whose prosperous
direction, through the goodness of God in defending his handmaid
Queen Elizabeth, the whole fleet of Spain was defeated and discom-
fited.' She married first Edward Sutton, Lord Dudley, and secondly
Eichard Mountpesson, who is represented kneeling beside her. A
tablet by Westmacott, erected in 1820, commemorates William Caxton,
the printer, 1491, who long worked in the neighbouring Almonry
and is buried in the churchyard. A brass plate was put up here in
1845 to Sir Walter Raleigh, beheaded close by, and buried beneath
the altar. A window at the west end in memory of Sir Walter
Raleigh was presented in 1882 by American citizens, for which
the American poet Lowell wrote the inscription : —

1 The New World's sons, from England's breast we drew

Such milk as bids remember whence we came ;
Proud of her past, wheref rom our future grew,
This window we inscribe with R-aleigh's fame.'

At the same time the printers and publishers of London presented
a window over the south-east entrance in memory of Caxton, for
which Tennyson founded on Caxton's motto ' Fiat lux ' the lines: —

1 Thy prayer was "Light— more Light— while Time shall last ! "

Thou sawest a glory growing on the night,
But not the shadows which that light would cast,
Till shadows vanish in the Light of Light.'

1 Disraeli, Calamities of Authors.

2 ' Come, Alecto, lend a torch,

To find a Churchyard in a church porch ;
Poverty and poetry this torch doth enclose,
Therefore gentlemen be merry in prose.'

3 At St. Mary, Aldermanbury, November 12, 1656.

116

Westminster

The Puritan admiral, Robert Blake, was oddly commemorated in
1888 by a window containing a saint and an archangel. The west
window of the south aisle was erected by members of the House of
Commons to Lord Frederick Cavendish, 1882.

The churchwardens have since .1713 held with their office the
possession of a very curious Horn Snuff-box, inside the lid of which
is a head of the Duke of Cumberland, engraved by Hogarth in
1746 to commemorate the battle of Culloden. Successive church-
wardens have enclosed it in a succession of silver cases, beautifully
engraved with representations of the historical events which have
occurred while they held office, so that it has become a really
valuable curiosity.

Before leaving this church one may notice the marriage at its
altar of Edward Hyde, Earl of Clarendon, grandfather of Mary
II. and Anne, with Frances, daughter of Sir Thomas Aylesbury ;
and the baptism at its font (Nov. 1640) of Barbara Villiers, the
notorious Duchess of Cleveland.

The Churchyard of St. Margaret's used to be closely paved with
tombstones, a setting greatly enhancing the picturesque appearance
of the Abbey, and marvellously in keeping with it. In 1881 all
the gravestones were buried under three feet of earth, to the
destruction of much that was valuable and interesting, and turf
laid down at an enormous cost, with the mean and flippant result
which we now see. Wenceslaus Hollar, the engraver (1677), is said
to lie near the north-west angle of the tower. Here also are buried
Sir William Waller, the Parliamentary general (1668), and Thomas
Blood, celebrated for his attempt to steal the regalia (1680). The
bodies of the mother of Oliver Cromwell ; of Admiral Blake (who
had been honoured with a public funeral) ; of Sir William Constable
and Dr. Dorislaus, concerned in the trial of Charles I. ; of Thomas
May, the poet and historian of tne Commonwealth, and others
famous under the Protectorate, when exhumed from the Abbey,
were carelessly interred here. Amongst the tombs recently buried,
broken, or destroyed, were a number belonging to the family of
Davies, the heiress of which brought so much landed property to
the Dukes of Westminster. Only one monument of this family has
been spared. In the now ruined churchyard one has some difficulty
in recalling its association with the poet Cowper while he was a
Westminster boy.

' Crossing St. Margaret's Churchyard late one evening, a glimmering light in
the midst of it excited his curiosity, and, instead of quickening his speed and
whistling to keep up his courage the while, he went to see whence it proceeded. A
gravedigger was at work there by lantern-light, and, just as Cowper came to the
spot, he threw up a skull which struck him on the leg. This gave an alarm to
his conscience, and he reckoned the incident as amongst the best religious im-
pressions which he received at Westminster.'— Southey's Life of Cowper.

Parliament Square, in front of St. Margaret's, is decorated with
statues of famous Prime Ministers — Canning by Westmacott, Peel by
Behnes, Palmerston by Jackson, Derby by Noble, and an admirable
lifelike figure of Beaconsfield, by Raggi.

St. John's, Westminster

117

On the south and west of the Abbey and the precincts of West-
minster School is a labyrinth of poor streets. Vine Street com-
memorated the vineyard of the Abbey, and Bowling Street its
bowling-ground. 1 Many of the old Westminster signs are historical
— the Lamb and Saracen s Head, a record of the Crusades ; the
White Hart, the badge of Richard II. ; the Rose, the badge of the
Tudors. In the poverty-stricken quarter not far from the river,
is St. John's Church, the second of Queen Anne's fifty churches,
built (1728) from designs of Archer, a pupil of Vanbrugh, and the
architect of Cliefden. It has semicircular apses on the east and
west, and at each of the four corners one of the towers which made
Lord Chesterfield compare it to an elephant on its back with its
four feet in the air.

1 Tn this region are a certain little street called Church Street, and a certain
little blind square called Smith Square, in the centre of which last retreat is a
very hideous church, with four towers at the four corners, generally resembling
some petrified monster, frightful and gigantic, on its back with its legs in the
air.' — Dickens, 1 Our Mutual Friend.'

The effect at a distance is miserable, but the details of the church
are good in reality. Churchill, the poet, was curate and lecturer
here (1758), and how utterly unsuited he was for the office we learn
from his own lines :

' I kept those sheep,
Which, for my curse, I was ordain'd to keep,
Ordain'd, alas ! to keep through need, not choice. . . .
Whilst, sacred dulness ever in my view,
Sleep, at my bidding, crept from pew to pew.'

At 23 Parish Street, Tooley Street, is the last remaining public-
house with the old sign of the Naked Boy and Woolpack. A
tablet records the fact that George III. and Queen Charlotte stood
sponsors here in person in 1800 to Lord Thomas Grosvenor, after-
wards Earl of Wilton.

Horseferry Road, near this, leads to Lambeth Bridge erected in
1862 on the site of the horse-ferry, where Mary of Modena crossed
the river in her flight from Whitehall (Dec. 9, 1688), her passage
being ' rendered very difficult and dangerous by the violence of the
wind and the heavy and incessant rain.' At the same spot James
II. crossed two days after in a little boat with a single pair of oars,
and dropped the Great Seal of England into the river on his passage.
The large open space called Vincent Square is used as a playground
by the Westminster scholars. In Rochester Row, on the north of
the square, is St. Stephen's Church, built by Miss Burdett Coutts in
1847, and opposite this Emery HilVs Almshouses of 1708. At the
end of Rochester Row towards Victoria Street is the Grey Coat
School, a quaint building of 1698, with two statues in front in the
dress worn by the children of the time when it was founded. In
the narrow streets near this was Tothill Fields Prison, built 1836,

i Whilst so many London streets really need re-naming, these interesting
historic names have been changed in the last few years.

118

Westminster

pulled down 1884. The gate of the earlier prison here, called Bride-
well, is set up against the north wall of the Sessions House. In
Little Chapel Street a renaissance Town Hall was erected 1882-83.

At the end of Victoria Street, opposite the entrance to Dean's
Yard, is a picturesque Memorial Column, by Scott, in memory of the
old Westminster boys killed in the Crimean War. The Royal
Westminster Aquarium (admission Is.) is a popular place of amuse-
ment, opened in 1876. At the corner of Great George Street is a
Fountain (by Teuton and Earp), erected in 1865 by Mr. Charles
Buxton in honour of those who effected the abolition of the slave
trade. With its pretty coloured marbles and the trees behind, it

EMANUEL HOSPITAL, WESTMINSTER.

is one of the most picturesque things in London. It was in the
drawing-room of the opposite house, No. 25 Great George Street,
that the body of Lord Byron lay in state, July 1824, when it
arrived from Missolonghi before its removal to Newstead. Great
George Street ends at Storey's Gate, so called from Edward Storey,
'Keeper of the Birds' (in Birdcage Walk) to Charles II. Parallel
with the Park on this side runs Queen Anne's Gate, with many .-•
houses bearing the comfortable solid look of her time, and with j
porches and doorways of admirable design carved in wood : a
statue of Queen Anne stands at a corner. It is a belief in the
neighbourhood that on each anniversary of her death the Queen de-
scends from her pedestal and walks three times round the square.

Queen Anne's Gate

119

A London oasis, doomed to destruction in 1892, was the Emanuel
Hospital in Little James Street, founded 1594, by the will of Anne,
widow of Gregory, Lord Dacre of the south, sister of the poet-
statesman Lord Buckhurst, and at one time maid of honour to
Queen Elizabeth. A splendid wrought -iron gate was the entrance
to a grass plot surrounded on three sides by one-storeyed buildings
of red brick, having a chapel with its pediment decorated by an

IN QUEEN ANNE'S GATE.

elaborate coat of arms, and surmounted by a bell-turret. The
altar-piece of the destroyed church of St. Benet Fink was preserved
here. Lady Dacre's will provided for * twenty poor aged folk, and
twenty poor children.' The property left for their maintenance
has since enormously increased in value, but two-thirds are diverted
to the maintenance of middle-class schools. The picturesque old
buildings and their green enclosed space are an irreparable loss to
London.

Tothill (Toot Hill) Street leads into York Street, named after
Frederick, Duke of York, son of George III., but formerly called
Petty France, from the number of French Protestants who took
refuge there in 1685. Here No. 19, destroyed in 1877 without a

120

Westminster

voice being raised to save it, was Milton's 1 pretty garden house/
marked on the garden side by a tablet erected by Jeremy Bentham
(who lived and died close by in Queen Square Place), inscribed
'Sacred to Milton, Prince of Poets.' It was here that he became,
blind, and that Andrew Marvell lived as his secretary. His first
wife, Mary Powell, died here, leaving three little girls motherless ;
and while living here he married his second wife, Catherine
Woodcocke, who died in childbirth fifteen months after, and is
commemorated in the beautiful sonnet beginning —

1 Methought I saw my late espoused saint,
Brought to me, like Alcestis, from the grave.'

Hazlitt lived here in Milton's house, and here he received Hay don,
'Charles Lamb and his poor sister, and all sorts of clever odd
people, in a large room, wainscoted and ancient, where Milton had
meditated.' 1

We may turn down Bridge Street 2 to Westminster Bridge, opened
1750, but rebuilt 1859-61. It is now nearly twice as broad as any
of the other bridges on the river. Hence we see the stately river
front of the Houses of Parliament, and the ancient towers of
Lambeth on the opposite bank. 3 It is interesting to remember how
many generations have ' taken water ' here to 1 go to London ' by
the great river highway.

Few visit the bridge early enough to see the view towards the
city as it is described by Wordsworth —

• Earth has not anything to show more fair :

Dull would he be of soul who could pass by

A sight so touching in its majesty :
This City now doth, like a garment, wear
The beauty of the morning ; silent, bare,

Ships, towers, domes, theatres, and temples lie

Open unto the fields, and to the sky,
All bright and glitt'ring in the smokeless air.
Never did sun more beautifully steep,

In his first splendour, valley, rock, or hill ;
Ne'er saw I, never felt, a calm so deep :

The river glideth at his own sweet will :
Dear God ! the very houses seem asleep,

And all that mighty heart is lying still ! '

1 Haydon's Autobiography, i. 211.

2 William Godwin, author of Caleb Williams, died (1836) in a house which stood
under the shadow of the Houses of Parliament, destroyed in the fire of 1834. At
the angle on the left is St. Stephen's Club, erected 1874, from an admirable design
of J. Whichcord.

s Artists should find their way to the banks amongst the boats and warehouses
on the Westminster shore opposite Lambeth, and farther still.

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