4 VIEW 0 F SOCIETY and MANNERS 1 N FRANCE, SWITZERLAND, AND GERMANY: WITH ANECDOTES relating to fome EMINENT CHARACTERS. BY JOHN MOORE, M.D. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. Strenua nos exercet inertia: navibus atque Quadrigis petimus bene vivere. Quod petis, hie eft. Hor» The FOURTH EDITION, Correfted. LONDON: Printed for W. Strahan ; and T. Cadell, in the Strand, MDCCLXXXI. i "Digitized, by the Internet Archive in 2014 https://archive.org/details/viewofsocietyman01moor_0 ADVERTISEMENT FROM a diffidence of his own abilities, and from other motives not fo well founded, the Author of the following Let- ters thought it expedient, in the firft edition, to throw a flight veil over the real fituation in which they were written : he imagined alfo, that by this means fome refle&ions, particularly thofe on gaming, might be in- troduced more naturally, and with aftronger effect. But having been affured by thofe of whofe friendfhip and judgment he is equal- ly convinced, that the afTumed character and feigned fituation in the two firft letters gave an air of fidtion to the real incidents in the reft of the work, he has now reftored thofe two letters to their original form. Jujl PiMi/hed, Written by the fame Author, A VIEW of SOCIETY and MANNERS in ITALY : With Anecdotes relat- ing to fome Eminent Characters. z Vols. 8vo. Price 14s, TO HIS GRACE DOUGLAS, Duke of Hamilton and Brandon, MY LORD DUKE, A LTHOUGHeftablimedpradtice * might, on this occafion, juftify my holding a language to your Grace which I never before ufed, yet you have nothing of that kind to fear ; it is as inconfiftent with my difpo- fition to offer adulation, as it is con- trary to yours to defire it.— -Nor does Vol. I, a this Marquis of Douglas, &c. DEDICATION. this addrefs proceed from a vain be- lief that the luftre of your name will difpofe the Public to wink at the ble- mifhes of my performance. The higheft titles do not fcreen even thofe to whom they belong from contempt, when their perfonal characters are contemptible ; far lefs can they flielter the dulnefs or folly of others. I am prompted to offer this View of 3ociety and Manners to your Grace, by fentiments of the moft fincere efteem and attachment; and, exclufive of all considerations of that nature, it is pre- sented with peculiar propriety to you, as no other perfon has had equal op- portunities of knowing how far the objects it comprehends are juft, and faithfully drawn from nature. gome DEDICATION. Some perhaps may imagine, that I fhould have difplayed more prudence in offering this work to a lefs com- petent judge; but I am encouraged in my defire of prefixing your Name to thefe imperfect fketches, by the fond permafion that nobody can be more inclined to afford them the in- dulgence of which I am fenfible they ftand in fo much need. I have the honour to be, with the moll refpectful and cordial regard, Your Grace's Moft obedient, and obliged Servant, THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME* LETTER t p. i. LETTER II. p. ii. Plan of condutl while abroad. — Agree to cor- refpond by letter. — Servants,— Majlers. LETTER III. p. 1 8. Marquis de F—.—Colifee—Charafters. * 3 xi CONTENTS. LETTER IV. p. 26, French manners. LETTER V. p. 33. Paris. — London. — French opinions.— Mar- quis de F and Lord M • LETTER VI. p. 38. Loyalty, Engli/h, Germany Turkifb> French. • — Le Roi. — Princes of the blood.— Ideas of government. LETTER VII. p. 48. Sentiments of Frenchmen concerning the BrU tijh conjlitution. LETTER VIII. p. 54. French Kings have peculiar reafons to love their fubjefls. — "The threefons of Catherine of CONTENTS. of Medicis. — Henry IV. — Natural effeSts of exertion and of /loth on the body^ under • Jlanding, heart. LETTER IX. p. 63, ; A French lover. LETTER X. p. 68. Groundlefs accufations. — Friend/hip. — Eng* lifh travellers. LETTER XL p. 76. Englijh prejudices. — Converfation with Mr. B . — Reflections. LETTER XIL p. 86. Tragedy of Siege of Calais. — Bon mot of Due d'Ayen. — RuJJia — Prujfia. — France.—* Statue of Lewis XV. — Epigrams. via CONTENTS. LETTER XIII. p. 95. Chevalier B and his lady. — Madame de M— , her character ; — her misfortune. LETTER XIV. p. 103. Condition of the common people in France.— Vnvoillingnefs to cenfure the King. — French parliaments. — Lawyers indifcriminately ridiculed on the French Jlage. — Oppofttion in England. LETTER XV. p. 113. Dubois and Fanchon. LETTER XVI. p. 126. Mankind do not always aEl from motives of felf inter efi. — A fine gentleman and a pine- apple* — Supper at the Marquis de F 's. — Generofity of Mr. B . — Men who calculate. — Men who do not. CONTENTS. LETTER XVII. p. 137. Different tafte of French and Englifh with refpeSl to tragedy. — LeKain. — Garrick. — French comedy. — Comedie Italienne, Car- lin. — Repartee of Le Kain. LETTER XVIIL p. 150. Pleafure and bufinefs. — Lyons. — Geneva. LETTER XIX. p. 157. Situation of Geneva. — Manners. — Govern- ment. — "The clergy. — Peculiar cujlomss-* Circles. — Amufements. LETTER XX- p. 168. Englifh families at Cologny. — Le jour de FEjcalade. — Military ejlablifhment. — Po- litical fquabbles. — Sentiments of an Eng~ lijhman. — Of a gentleman of Geneva. x CONTENTS. LETTER XXL p. 178. King of Arquebufitrs. — A ProceJJion. — A Battle. LETTER XXII. p. 187. AFeaJl. LETTER XXIII. p. 193. The garrifon and fortifications of Geneva not nfelefs. — Standing armies in other coun- tries. — The freedom and independence of Geneva of fervice to the King of Sardi- nia. LETTER XXIV. p. 201. Journey to the Glaciers of Savoy. — Mole. — Clufe. — c The Rhone and the Arve. — SaU lenche. — Mules. — A church. — Converfa- tion with a young peafant in the valley of Ch amount. CONTENTS. xi LETTER XXV. p. 3T4. Mount anvert. — The Chamois. — Mount Bre- men. — Mont Blanc. — The Needles —The Valley of Ice. — Avalanches. LETTER XXVI. p. 228. Account of Glaciers continued. — Theories. LETTER XXVII. p. 236. Idiots.— The fentiments of an old Soldier.—* Guatres. — Journey front Chamouni to the Pays de Yallais. — Martigny. — Sion. LETTER XXVIII. p. 247. Road to St. Maurice. — Reflections on the fili- ation of the Pays de Fallals. — Bex. — Aigle. — St. Gingo— Meillerie. — Evian>~ Re~ pdiUe* CONTENTS. LETTER XXIX. p. 2 6i, Voltaire, LETTER XXX. p. 273. Voltaire. LETTER XXXI. p. 286. The education proper for an Englijh gentle* man. LETTER XXXII. p. 301. Suicide frequent at Geneva. — Two remark- able in/lances. LETTER XXXIII. p. 309. The Pays de Vaud. — Laufanne* — Vevay.— Ludlow. LETTER XXXIV- p. 318, Murat. — Swifs pea/ants. 6 CONTENTS. LETTER XXXV. p. 325. Bern, LETTER XXXVI. p. 335. Religion. — Government. — Troops. LETTER XXXVII. p. 345. Soleurre. — Bafil. — Judicious remark on the ufe of language, by a Dutchman. LETTER XXXVIII. p. 351. Manners. — Refleffwns on formality. — The Li- brary* — Holbens. — Arfenah — Council-hall. —The clock in the Tower. — A head. LETTER XXXIX. p. 361. Marechal Contades.—— Theatre. French troops. CONTENTS. LETTER XL. p. 368. Gothic architecture. — Cathedral of Strajburg. — A fermon. — A JewijJj plot. LETTER XLL p. 377. jSarlfrutck. — The Margrave of Baden Dur~ lack. LETTER XLIL p. 387. Manheim. — The Ekflor. — The Court. — A buffoon. LETTER XLI1L p. 394. Jleidelberg. — The fame church for the Pro- tefant and Roman Catholic ivorjhip. — r Parade devotion. LETTER XLIV. p. 399. Refettions on the liberty of the prefs.—Com- parifons of inconveniencies arifng Jrom 1 that CONTENTS. xv that caufe who paid her the utmoft attention. He helped her to the difties fhe liked, filled her glafs witli wine or wa- ter, and addrefled his difcourfe particularly to her. — What a fool, fays B- does that young fellow make of the poor old wo- man ! If fhe were my mother, d — n me, if I would not call him to an account for it Though B underflands French, and fpeaks it better than moft Englifhmen, he had no relifh for the converfation, foon left the company, and has refufed all invita- tions MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 7$ tions to dinner ever fmce. He generally finds fome of our countrymen who dine and pafs the evening with him at the Pare Royal. After the review this day, we continued together, and being both difengaged, I pro- pofed, by way of variety, to dine at the public ordinary of the Hotel de Bourbon* He did not like this much at lirft. — I fhall be teafed, fays he, with their con- founded ceremony : — But on my obferving, that we could not expert much ceremony or politenefs at a public ordinary, he agreed to go. Our entertainment turned out different, however, from my expectations and his wifhes: A marked attention was paid us the moment we entered ; every body feemed inclined to accommodate us with the beft places. They helped us firft, and all the company feemed ready to facrifice every 7 little So VIEW OF SOCIETY AND little conveniency and diftin&ion to the Grangers : For, next to that of a lady, the moft refpe&ed character at Paris is that of a ftranger. After dinner, B and I walked into the gardens of the Palais Royal. There was nothing real in all the fufs thofe people made about us, fays he. I can't help thinking it fo me thing, faid I, to be treated with civility and apparent kindnefs in a foreign country — by ftrangers who know nothing about us, but that we are Englishmen, and often their enemies. But their politenefs confnts in trifles, faid he. — In what confifts any body's po- litenefs ? rejoined I. The utmoft a Frenchman will do for you, added he, is to endeavour to amufe you, and make your time pafs agreeably while you remain in his country. And I think that no trifle, anfwered MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 81 anfwered L — There are fo many fources of uneafinefs and vexation in this life, that I cannot help having a good will, and even gratitude, to all thofe who enable me to forget them: — For fuch people alleviate my pain, and contribute to my happinefs. But thefe Frenchmen, rejoined he, do not care a farthing for you in their hearts. —And why fhould I care a farthing for that ? faid I. — We have nothing to do with their hearts — You do not expert a friend in every agreeable acquaintance. But they are an interefted fet of people ; and even thofe among them who pretend to be your friends, — do it only for fome felfifh end. That is only an aflertion, faid I, but no proof. — If you flood in need of pecuniary affiftance, they would not advance you a louis to fave you from a jail, continued he. Vol. I. G I hope 82 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I hope never to be perfectly convinced of that, faid I; — but if we were to culti- vate friendship from the idea of affiftance of that nature, it would be doing exa&ly what you accufe them of : Befides, conti- nued I, the power and opportunity of ob- liging our acquaintances and friends by great, and, what are called, effential fer- vices, feldom occur j but thofe attentions and courtefies, which fmooth the commerce between man and man, and fweeten focial life, are in every body's power, and there are daily and hourly occafions of difplaying them, — particularly to Grangers. Curfe their courtefies, laid he, they are the great- eft Bore in nature. — I hate the French, — They are the enemies of England, and a falfe, deceitful, perfidious — But as we did not come over, interrupted I, to fight them at prefent, we {hall fufpend hoftilities till a more convenient feafon ; and in the mean time, if you have no objedion, let us go to the play. He MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 83 He agreed to this propofal, and here our converfation ended. You know B - is as worthy a fel- low as lives ; and, under a rough addrefs, conceals the bed difpofition in the world. His manner, I imagine, was originally af- fumed from a notion, which he has in com- mon with many people, that great polite- nefs, and apparent gentlenefs of behaviour, are generally accompanied with falfehood and real coldnefs ; — even inhumanity of character, — as if human nature, like mar- ble, took a poiifh proportionable to its hardnefs. This idea is certainly formed without aa accurate examination, and from a fuperfi- cial view of mankind. As a boorifh ad- drefs is no proof of honefty, fo is politenefs no indication of the reverfe;— and if they are once reduced to an equality in this particular, it is evident that the latter is preferable in every other refpedfc. G 2 But 8 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND But to return to the French ; I am clear- ly of opinion, that a ftr'anger may fairly avail himfelf of every conveniency arifing from their obliging manners, although he fhould be convinced that all their affiduity and attention are unconne£ted with any re- gard to him, and flow entirely from vanity and felf-love. He may perceive that his Pa- rifian friend, while he loads him with civi- lities, is making a difplay of his own pro- ficiency in the fcience of politenefs, and endeavouring to thruft himfelf forward in the good opinion of the company, by yield- ing the preference on a thoufand trifling occafions. — Though he plainly fees, that all this ftooping is w r ith a view to conquer, why ihould he repine at a victory which is accompanied with fo many' conveniences to himfelf? why quarrel with the motive while he feels the benefit' of the effect ? If writers or preachers of morality could, by the force of eloquence, eradicate felfifti- nefs MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 85 nefs from the hearts of men, and make them in reality love their neighbours as themfelves, it would be a change devoutly to be wifhed* But until that bleifed event, let us not find fault with thofe forms and attentions which create a kind of artificial friendfhip and benevolence, which for many of the purpofes of fociety produce the fame effedls as the true* People who love to amufe themfelves with play, and have not ready money, are obliged to ufe counters. You and I, my friend, as long as we cut and fhuffle to- gether, {hall never have occafion for fuch a fuccedaneum; — I am fully perfuaded we are provided, on both fides, with a fufficient quantity of pure gold. o 3 85 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XII. Paris, T^THEN B— and I went to the play^ houfe, as was mentioned in my laft, we found a prodigious crowd of people be- fore the door : We could not get a place till after a confiderable ftruggle. The play was the Siege of Calais, founded on a po- pular ftory, which muft needs be interefting and flattering to the French nation. You cannot conceive what preffing and crowding there is every night to fee this favourite piece, which has had the fame fuccefs at Verfailles as at Paris. There are fome few critics, however, who afiert that it is entirely devoid of me- rkj and owes its run to the popular nature of MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 87 of the fubjed, more than to any intrinfic beauty in the verfes, which fome declare are not even good French. When it was Jaft aded before the King* it is faid, his Majefty, obferving that the Due d'Ayen did not join in applauding, but that he rather fhewed fome marks of difguft, turned to the Duke and faid, Vous n applaudiffez pas ? Vous n'etes pas bon Francois, Monfieur le Due : — To this the Duke replied, — a Dieu ne plaife que je ne fuffe pas meilleur que les vers de la piece. Obedient to the court in every other particular, the French difregard the deci- fions pronounced at Verfailles in matters of tafte. It very often happens that tic piece, which has been acted before the royal family and the court, with the high- eft applaufe, is afterwards damned with every circuniilance of ignominy at In all works of genius the Pan ad G 4 88 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND the judgment of the courtiers, and di&ate to their monarch. In other countries of Europe, it has hap« pened, that fome Prince of fuperior talents has, by the brightnefs of his own genius, enlightened the minds of his fubje£ts, andi difpelled the clouds of barbarifm from his dominions, Since the commencement of this century a great empire has been in proved from a ftate of grofs ignorance, refined by the arts of peace, and inftru&ed in the arts of war, by the vaft genius and induftry of one of its Princes, who laid the foundation of its prefent power and grandeur. Another inconficlerable ftate? with fewer refources, has, at a later period, been created a powerful monarchy, by the ado- nifhing efforts, perkverance, and magna- nimity of its prefent king ; whofe love of know- MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 89 knowledge and the arts has drawn fome of the greateft geniufes in Europe to his capital ; whence fcience and tafte muft gra- dually flow through his whole dominions, where they were formerly but little che^ riflied. In thefe inftances, and others which might be enumerated, the princes have been fuperior in genius to any of their fub- jeds. The throne has been the fource whence knowledge and refinement have flowed to the extremities of the nation. But this has never been the cafe in France, where it is not the king who po- ll flies the people ; — but the people who refine the manners, humanize the heart, and, if it be not perfe&ly opaque, en- lighten the underftanding of the king. Telemaque, and many other works, have been compofed witlj this intention. In many 9 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND many addrefles and remonftrances to the throne, excellent precepts and hints are infinuated in an indired and delicate manner. By the emphatic applaufe they beftow on particular paffages of the pieces repre- fented at the theatre, they convey to the monarch the fentiments of the nation refpe&ing the meafures of his govern- ment. By afcribing qualities to him which he does not poffefs, they endeavour to excite within his breaft a defire to attain them : they try to cajole him into virtue. Confi- dered in this point of view, the defign of the equeftrian ftatue which the city of Paris has ereded in honour of Lewis XV„ may have been fuggefted from a more ge- nerous motive than flattery, to which it is generally imputed. This was begun by Bouchardon ; who died when the work was MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 91 was well advanced, and has fince been com- mitted to Pigal to be finiflied. The horfe is placed on a very high pe* deftal. At the angles, are four figures, ftanding in the manner of Caryatides, who reprefent the four virtues, Fortitude, Juf- tice, Prudence, and the love of Peace. All the ornaments are of Bronze, The two fmall fides of the pedeftal are ornamented with gilded laurels and infcrip- tions. On the front, towards the Thuil- leries, is the following : LUDOVICO XV. OPTIMO PRINCIPI QUOD AD 5CALDUM, MOSAM, RHENUM, VICTOR PACEM ARMIS PACE SUORUM ET EUROPE FELICIT ATEM QjjjEsrvrr. The 9 z VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The large fides of the pedeftal are adorn^ ed with trophies and bas reliefs. One re- prefents Lewis giving peace to Europe * the other reprefents him in a triumphal chariot, crowned by Vi&ory, and conduc- ed by Renown to a people who fubmit. "When we recoiled: that the infcription and emblems allude to the conclufion of the war before the laft, and what kind of infcriptions are ufually put under the ftatues of kings, we fhall not find any thing out- rageoufly flattering in the above ; the mo- ral of w r hich is, that the love of peace is one of the greateft virtues a king can pof- fefs The bed moral that can be in- finuated into the breaft of a monarch. In this work the horfe is infinitely more admired, by fculptors and fatirifts, than the king. But the greateft overfight is, that the whole group, though all the figures zxt larger than life, have a diminutive appear- MANNERS IN FRANCE* &c. gj appearance in the centre of the vaft area in which they are placed. The wits of Paris could not allow fuch an opportunity of indulging their vein to efcape unimproved. Many epigrams are handed about. — Here are two : Bouchardon eft un animal, Et fon ouvrage fait pitie ; II place les vices a cheval, Et met les verms a pied. Voila notre Roi comme il eft a Verfailks, Sans foi, fans loi, et fans entrailles. Both are too fevere ; giving the idea of wicked difpofitions, and cruelty of temper, which do not belong to Lewis the Fif- teenth ; whofe real chara&er, in three words, is that of a good-natured, eafy- tempered man, funk in floth and fen- fuality. J have 94 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I have feen another infcription for the ftatue handed about j it is in Latin, and very fhort. STATUA STATUS You may imagine that the authors of thefe would meet with a dreadful punifh- ment, if they were difcovered. No danger of that kind is fufficient to reftrain the in- habitants of this city, from writing and fpreading fuch pafquinades, which are greatly relilhed by the whole nation. Indeed, I imagine there is more of the fpirit of revenge, than of good policy, in attempting to repel fuch humours ; which, if they did not get vent in this manner, might break out in a more dangerous lhape. Adieu. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 95 LETTER XIII. Paris. T Dined yefterday with an equal number of both fexes, at the Chevalier B — s. He is F > 's very intimate friend, and has a charming houfe within a few leagues of Paris, which the Marquis makes full as much ufe of as the owner. The Chevalier has a confiderable revenue, which he fpends with equal magnificence and oeconomy. He has been married many years to his prefent lady, a mofl agreeable woman, with whom he poflefles every thing which can make their union happy, except children. They endeavour to for- get this difagreeable circumftance, by a conftant fucceffion of company; and, which 7 is $6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND is very Angular here, the fociety entertain- ed by the hufband and wife are the fame. F — j though much younger than either, is 'a great favourite of both ; and they are always pleafed when he invites a fmall company of his friends to dine at their houfe. The prefent party was propofed by Ma- dame de M*- — , a rich young widow, much admired here j of whom I (trail give you a glimpfe, en paffant- for do not imagine I undertake to defcribe the moft undefcribable of all human beings,* a fine French lady* Madame de M has fome wit, more beauty, and vivacity in the greatefl: mea- fure: — if there were a fourth degree of comparifon, I fhould place her vanity there. She laughs a great deal, and fhe is in the right; for her teeth are remarkably fine. 6 She MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 97 She talks very much, and in a loud and deci- five tone of voice — This is not fo judicious, becaufe her fentiments are not fo brilliant as her teeth, and her voice is rather harfh, — She is received with attention and refpe£t: everywhere; — that fhe owes to her rank.— She is liked and followed by the men ; this fhe owes to her beauty. She is not difliked by the women, which is probably owing to her foibles. This lady is thought to be fond of F : fo, to prevent fcandal, fhe de« fired me to call at her houfe, and attend her to the Chevalier's, I found her at her toilette, in confuta- tion with a general officer and two abbes* concerning a new head-drefs which fhe had juft invented. — It was fmart and fanciful ; and, after a few corrections, received the fan&ion of all thofe critics. They declared it to be a valuable difcovery, and foretold Vol. I. H that 9 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND that it would immediately become the general mode of Paris, and do immortal honour to the genius of Madame de She wheeled from before the glafs, with an air of exultation — Allons, done, mes enfans — a la gloire, — cried fhe ; and was proceeding to give orders for her equipage, when a fervant entered, and in- formed her, that Madame la Comtefle had accepted her invitation, and would certainly do herfelf the honour of dining with her. I defpair of giving you an idea of the iudden change which this meflage occa- fioned in the features of Madame de M — . Had ihe heard of the death of her father, or her only child, fhe could not have been more confounded, — Eft il poffible (faid fhe, with an accent of defpair) qu'on puiffe etre fi bete!— The fervant was called, and exa- mined regarding the import of the anfwer he Manners in France, kc> ^ he had brought from Madame la Comteffe* — It was even fo fhe was affuredly to come. — Frefh exclamations on the part of Madame de M . Did you fend to in- vite her for this day ? faid I — Undoubtedly I did, replied Madame de M- — ~. That could be delayed no longer. — She came to town laft Sunday. — I therefore fent her the politeft meffage in the world, begging to have the honour of her company for this day, at dinner; and behold, the horrid woman (with a rudenefs, or ignorance of life without example) fends me word fhe will come. It is very fhocking, indeed, faid I, that fhe fhould have mifunderftood your kind- nefs fo prodigioufly. — Is it not, faid fhe ? Could any mortal have expe&ed fo barba- rous a return of civility ? -She is con- nected with fome of my relations in the country: — when fhe came to town, I im- mediately left my name with her porter.— H 2 She ioo VIEW OF SOCIETY AND She called next day on me — I had informed my Swifs, that I was always to be out when fhe came. I was denied accord- ingly. — Cela eft tout fimple, et felon les regies. The woman is twenty years older that I, and we muft be infupportable to each other — She ought to have feen, that my invitation was di&ated by politenefs only: — the fame politenefs on her part fliould have prompted her to fend a refufal. In this manner we might have vifited each other, dined and fupped together^ and re- mained on the moft agreeable footing ima- ginable through the whole courfe of our lives: — but this inftance of grofierete muft put an end to all conne&ion.' Well — there is no remedy: — I muft fuffer pur- gatory for this one day. Adieu.— Prefent my compliments to Madame B — . Inform her of this horrid accident. Having condoled with Madame de M — on her unmerited misfortune, I took my 5 leave MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 101 leave and joined F , to whom I re- counted the fad chance which had deprived us of that lady's company. He did not appear quite fo unhappy as fhe had on the occafion; but he fwore he was convinced that the Countefs had ac- cepted the invitation to dinner par pure malice; for, to his knowledge, fhe was acquainted with their party to the Cheva- lier B -'s, and had certainly feized that opportunity of plaguing Madame de M — , whom fhe hated. Without that douceur, he imagined, the dinner would be as great a purgatory to the Countefs, as it could poffibly be to Madame de M . How thefe afFe&ionate friends contrived to pafs their time together I know not, but we had a moft agreeable party at the Chevalier's — ■ the Marquis entertaining the company with the hiftory of Madame M — 's mif- fortune, and the loving tete a tete which it had occafioned. —This he re- H 3 lated m VIEW OF SOCIETY AND lated with fuch fprightlinefs, and defcribed his own grief and difappointment with fuch a flow of good humour, as in fome degree indemnified the company for the lady's abfence, MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 103 LETTER XIV. Paris. HOUGH the gentlenefs of French manners qualifies in fome degree the feverity of the government ; as I obferved in a former letter, ftill the condition of the common people is by no means com- fortable. When we -confider the prodigious re- fources of this kingdom ; the advantages it enjoys above almoft every other country in point of foil, climate, and fi.tuation; the in- duftry and ingenuity of the inhabitants, attached by affe&ion to their Kings, and fubmiflive to the laws ; we naturally expect that the bulk of the nation fhould be at their eafe, and that poverty fhould be as little known here as in any country of H 4 Europe. io 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Europe. I do not fpeak of that ideal or comparative poverty, the child of envy and covetoufhefs, which may be felt by the richeft citizens of London or Amfterdamj or of the poverty produced in capitals by gaming, luxury, and diffipation : But of that a£tual poverty which arifes when the laborious part of a nation cannot acquire a competent fhare of the neceflaries of life by their induftry. The two firft flow from the vices and extravagance of individuals: — The other from a bad government. Much of the firft may be found in Lon- don, where more riches circulate than in any city of Europe j of the lafl: there is little to be feen in the country of England. The reverfe of this is the cafe in France* where the pooreft inhabitants of the capi- tal are often in a better fituation than the laborious MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c, 105 laborious peafant. The former, by admi- niftering to the luxuries, or by taking ad- vantage of the follies of the great and the wealthy, may procure a tolerable livelihood, and fometimes make a fortune; while the peafant cannot, without much difficulty, earn a fcanty and precarious fubfiftence. To have an adequate idea of the wealth of England, we muft vifit the provinces, and fee how the nobility, the gentry, and efpecially the farmers and country people in general live. The magnificence of the former, and the abundance which prevails among the latter clafles, muft aftonifh the natives of any other country in Europe. To retain a favourable notion of the wealth of France, we muft remain in the capital, or vifit a few trading or manufac- turing towns 5 but muft feldom enter the chateau of the Seigneur, or the hut of the peafant. In the one, we fhall find nothing but ,o6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND but tawdry furniture, and from the other we fhall be feared by penury, A failure of crops, or a carelefs admini- ftration, may occafion diftrefs and fcarcity of bread among the common people at a particular time: But when there is a per- manent poverty through various reigns, and for a long trad of years, among the pea- fantry of fuch a country as France; this feems to me the fureft proof of a carelefs, and confequently an opprelfive government. Yet the French very feldom complain of their government, though often of their governors; and never of the King, but always of the minifter. Although the enthufiaftic afFedion which the people of this nation once felt for their prefent monarch be greatly abated, it is not annihilated* Some of the courtiers indeed, who are fuppofed to adminifter to the King's pleafures, are detefted. The impru- 4 dent MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 107 dent oftentatious luxury of the miftrefs, is publicly execrated; but their cenfure of the King, even where they think themfelves quite fafe, never burfts out as it would in fome other nations, in violent expreffions, fuch as, Curfe his folly, — his weaknefs, or — his obftinacy. No : Even their cenfure of him is intermingled with a kind of affec- tionate regret.— Naturellement il eft bon, they fay. — And when they obferve the de- plorable anxiety and difguft in his counte- nance, which are the concomitants of a conftitution jaded by pleafure, and of a mind incapable of application, they cry, Mon Dieu, qu'il eft trifte!— II eft mal~ heureux lui-meme; comment peut il penfer a nous autres ? I am perfuaded, that, in fpite of the dis- content which really fubfifts at prefent in France, the King might recover the efteem and afFe&ion of his fubjedts at once by the fimple manoeuvre of diimiffing his minifter, ioS VIEW OF SOCIETY AND minifter, and a few other unpopular cha- racters. A Lettre de cachet, ordering them to banifhment, or (hutting them up in the Baftille, would be confidered as a complete revolution of government, and the nation would require no other Bill of Rights thaa what proceeded from this dreadful inftra- xnent of tyranny. As matters are at prefent, In my opinion, no body of men in France has, properly fpeaking, any rights. The Princes, the nobleiTe, and the clergy, have indeed cer- tain privileges which diftinguifh them in different degrees from their fellow-fubje£ts: but as for rights, they have none; or, which amounts to the fame thing, none which can defend them, or which they can defend againft the Monarch, whenever he in his royal wifdorn choofes to invade or annihi- late theoit A French- MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 109 A Frenchman will tell you, that their parliaments have the right of remonftrating to the throne upon certain occafions. — This is a precious privilege indeed ! the common-council of London are in poffef- fion of this glorious right alfo, and we all know what it avails. It is like the power of which Owen Glendower beaded • " calling fpirits from the vafiy deep/'-— But the misfortune was, that none came in confequence of his call. The parliaments of Paris can indeed re- monftrate; and have done it with fuch ftrength of reafoning and energy of expref- fion, that if eloquence were able to prevail over unlimited power, every grievance would have been redreffed. Some of thefe remonftrances difplay not only examples of the moft fublime and pa- thetic eloquence, but alfo breathe a fpirit of freedom which would do honour to a Britifh Houfe of Commons. The iio VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The refinance which the members of the parliament of Paris made to the will of the King, does them the greateft honour. Indeed the lawyers in France have dis- played more juft and manly fentiments of government, and have made a nobler ftruggle againft defpotic power, than any fet of men in the kingdom. It has therefore often affe&ed me with furprife and indignation, to obferve the attempts that are made here to turn this body of men into ridicule. One of this profeffion is never introduced on the ftage but in a ridiculous chara&er. This may give fatisfa£tion to the prince, whole power they have endeavoured to limit, or to thoughtlefs flavifh courtiers ; but ought to be viewed with horror by the nation, for whofe good the gentlemen of the long-robe have hazarded fo much; for in their oppofuion to the court, much perfonal danger was to be feared, and no lucrative advantage to be reaped. Thofc MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. ru Thofe who oppofe the court meafures in our ifland incur, I thank Heaven, no perfo- nal rifle on that account.— A member of the Britifh parliament may launch his pa- triotic bark in the mo ft perfect fecurity : — He may glide down the current of in- ventive, fpread all his canvas, catch every gale, and fail for an hour or two upon the edge of treafon, without any rifk of being fucked into its whirlpool. But though he has nothing to fear, it is equally evident that he has nothing to hope from fuch a voyage, Oppofition was formerly confidered as a means of getting into power : Mais nous avons change tout cela. Let any one re- collect the numbers who, with very mo- derate abilities, have crawled on their knees into office, and compare them with the numbers and fuccefs of thofe who, armed with genius and the artillery of eloquence, attempt the places by ftorm; if, after this, he joins the aflailants, he mull either a£t from other motives than thofe of felf-inte- reft, ii2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND reft, or betray his ignorance in the calcula* tion of chances. The fecurity, and even the exiftence, of the parliament of Paris, depending entirely on the pleafure of the King, and having no other weapons, offenfive or defenfive, but juftice, argument, and reafon, their fate might have been forefeen — the ufual fate of thofe whe have no other artillery to oppofe to power: — The members were difgraced, and the parliament abolifhed. The meafure was confidered as violent ; the exiles were regarded as martyrs; the people were aftonifhed and grieved. At length, recovering from their furprife, they diffi- pated their forrow, as they do on all occa- jQons of great calamity, by fome very merry fongs. MANNERS IN FRANCE* &c. 113 LETTER XV. Par^. TV/TY friend F called on me a few days fince, and as foon as he undef- ftood that I had no particular engagement, he infifted that I ihould drive fomewhere into the country, dine tete-a-tete with him, and return in time for the play. When we had drove a few miles I per- ceived a genteel-looking young fellow, drefled in an old uniform. He fat under a tree, on the grafs, at a little diftance from the road, and amufed himfelf by playing on the violin. As we came nearer we per- ceived he had a wooden leg, part of which lay in fragments by his fide. Vol. I. I What ii 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND What do you there, foldier? faid the Marquis. — I am on my way home to my own village, mon officier, faid the foldier. — But, my poor friend, refumed the Mar- quis, you will be a furious long time be- fore you arrive at your journey's end, if you have no other carriage befides thefe, point- ing at the fragments of his wooden leg. — I wait for my equipage and all my fuite* faid the foldier; and I am greatly miftaken if I do not fee them this moment coming down the hill. We faw a kind of cart, drawn by one horfe, in which was a woman, and a pea- fant who drove the horfe«-*-While they drew near, the foldier told us he had been wounded in Corfica — that his leg had been cut off — that before fetting out on that ex- pedition, he had been contra&ed to a young woman in the neighbourhood — that the marriage had been poilponed till his re- turn ; but when he appeared with a 5 wooden MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 115 Wooden leg, that all the girl's relations had oppofed the match,— The girl's mother, who was her only furviving parent, when he began his courtfliip, had always been his friend; but fhe had died while he was abroad.— The young woman herfeif, how- ever, remained conftant in her affe&ions, received him with open arms, and had agreed to leave her relations, and accom- pany him to Paris, from whence they in- tended to fet out in the diligence to the town where he was born, and where his father ftill lived: -That on the way to Paris his wooden leg had fnapped; which had obliged his miftrefs to leave hirn, and go to the next village in queft of a cart to carry him thither, where he would remain till fuch time as the carpenter fhould renew his leg. — C'eft un malheur, mon officier, concluded the foldier, qui fera bientot re- pare — et void mon amie ! — - The n6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The girl fprang before the cart, feized the outftretched hand of her lover, and told him with a fmile full of afFe&ion, that fhe had feen an admirable carpenter, who had promifed to make a leg that would not break, that it would be ready by the morrow, and they might refume their journey as foon after as they pleafed. The foldier received his miftrefs's com- pliment as it deferved. She feemed about twenty years of age, a beautiful, fine-fhaped girl- a Brunette, whofe countenance indicated fentiment and vivacity. You muft be much fatigued, my dear, faid the Marquis. On ne fe fatigue pas, Monfieur, quand on travaille pour ce qu'on aime, replied the girl. — The foldier kifled her hand with a gallant and tender air. — When a woman has fixed her heart upon a man, MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 117 man, you fee, faid the Marquis, turning to me, it is not a leg more or lefs that wilj make her change her fentiments. — Nor was it his legs, faid Fanchon, which made any impreffion on my heart. If they had made a little, however, faid the Marquis, you would not have been fingular in your way of thinking; but, allons, continued he, addreffing himfelf to me. — This girl is quite charming — her lover has the appear- ance of a brave fellow; they have but three legs betwixt them, and we have four; —if you have no obje&ion, they fhall have the carriage, and we will follow on foot to the next village, and fee what can be done for thefe lovers. — I never agreed to a pro- pofal with more pleafure in my life. The foldier began to make difficulties about entering into the vis-a-vis. — Come, come, friend, faid the Marquis, I am a Co- lonel, and it is your duty to obey : ; Get in I 3 without nS VIEW OF SOCIETY AND without much ado, and your miftrefs fhall follow, Entrons, mon bon ami, faid the girl, fince thefe gentlemen infift upon doing us fo much honour. A girl like you would do honour to the fined coach in France. Nothing could pleafe me more than to have it in my power to make you happy, faid the Mar- quis,— Laifez moi faire, mon Colonel, faid the foldier. Je fuis heureufe comme une reine, faid Fanchon — Away moved the chaife, and the Marquis and I followed. Voyez vous, combien nous fommes heu- reux nous autres Francis a bon marche, faid the Marquis to me, adding with a fmile, le bonheur, a ce qu 3 on ma dit, eft plus cher en Angleterre. But anfwered I, how long will this laft with thefe poor people? — Ah, pour le coup, faid he, voila une MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 119 une reflexion bien Angloife — that, indeed, is what I cannot tell; neither do I know- how long you or I may live; but I fancy it would be great folly to be forrowful through life, becaufe we do not know how foori misfortunes may come, and becaufe we are quite certain that death is to come at lad. When we arrived at the inn to which we had ordered the poftilion to drive, we found the foldier and Fanchon. After hav- ing ordered fome vi&uals and wine— Pray, faid I to the foldier, how do you propofe to maintain your wife and yourfelf ?— One who has contrived to live for five years on foldier's pay, replied he, can have little dif- ficulty for the reft of his life. 1 can play tolerably well on the fiddle, added he, and perhaps there is not a village in all France of the fize, where there are fo many mar- riages as in that in which we are going to fettle 1 fhall never want employment. I 4 — And 120 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND -And I, faid Fanchon, can weave hair nets and filk purfes, and mend ftockings. Befides, my uncle has two hundred livres of mine in his hands, and although he is brother-in-law to the Bailiff, and volontiers brutal^ yet I will make him pay it every fous — And I, faid the foldier, have fifteen livres in my pocket; befides two louis that I lent to a poor farmer to enable him to pay the taxes, and which he will repay me when he is able. You fee, Sir, faid Fanchon to me, that we are not objects of compaffion. May we not be happy, my good friend (turning to her lover with a look of exquifite ten- dernefs), if it be not our own fault ? If you are not, ma douce amie ! faid the fol- dier with great warmth, je ferai bien a plaindre. 1 never felt a more charming fenfation. — The tear trembled in the Mar- quis's eye. — ■ — Ma foi, faid he to me, c'eft une comedie larmoyante Then, turning tQ MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. i%% to Fanchon, Come hither, my dear, faid he, till fuch time as you can get payment of the two hundred livres, and my friend here recovers his two louis, accept of this from me, putting a purfe of louis into her hand — I hope you will continue to love your hufband, and to be loved by him. — Let me know from time to time how your affairs go on, and how I can ferve you. This will inform you of my name, and where I live. But if ever you do me the pleafure of calling at my houfe at Paris, — be fure to bring your hufband with you ; for I would not wifh to efteem you lefs or love you more than I do this moment* Let me fee you fometimes ; but always bring your hufband along with you. 1 fliall never be afraid to truft her with you, faid the foldier: — She (hall fee you as often as ihe pleafes, without my going with her. It was by too much venturing (as your ferjeant told me) that you loft your leg, my jaz VIEW OF SOCIETY AND my beft friend, faid Fanchon, with a fmile, to her lover. Monfieur le Colonel n'eft que trop aimable. I fhall follow his ad- vice literally, and when I have the honour of waiting on him, you fhall always at- tend me. Heaven blefs you both, my good friends* faid the Marquis; may he never know what happinefs is who attempts to inter- rupt your felicity! It fhall be my bufi- nefs to find out feme employment for you, my fellow-foldier, more profitable than playing on the fiddle. In the mean time, flay here till a coach comes, which fhall bring you both this night to Paris ; my fervant fhall provide lodgings for you, and the beft furgeon for w T ooden legs that can be found. When you are properly equipped, let me fee you before you go home. Adieu, my honeft fellow ; be kind to Fanchon ; She feems to deferve your love. Adieu, Fanchon j I fhall be happy to hear that you MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 123 you are as fond of Dubois two years hence as you are at prefent. So faying, he fhook Dubois by the hand, faluted Fanchon, pufhed me into the carriage before him, and away we drove. As we returned to town, he broke out Several times into warm praifes of Fan- chon's beauty, which infpired me with fome fulpicion that he might have further views upon her. I was fufficiently acquainted with his free manner of life, and I had a little before feen him on the point of being married to one woman, after he had ar- ranged every thing, as he called it, with another. To fatisfy myfelf in this particular, I queftioned him in a jocular ftyle on this fubjed. No, 124 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND No, my friend, faid he, Fanchon fhall never be attempted by me. Though I think her exceedingly pretty, and of that kind of beauty too that is moft to my tafte ; yet I am more charmed with her con- ftancy to honeft Dubois, than with any other thing about her: If fhe lofes that, fhe will lofe her greateft beauty in my eyes. Had fhe been fhackled to a morofe, exhaufted, jealous fellow* and defired a re- drefs of grievances, the cafe would have been different ; but her heart is fixed upon her old lover Dubois, who feems to be a worthy man, and I dare fay will make her happy. If I were inclined to try her, very probably it would be in vain : — The con- ftancy which has flood firm againft abfence, and a cannon- ball, would not be overturned by the airs, the tinfel, and the jargon of a petit-maitre. It gives me pleafure to believe it would not, and I am determined never to make the trial, MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 125 F — 1 never appeared fo perfectly amiable. B called and fupped with me the fame evening. I was too full of the ad- venture of Fanchon and Dubois not to mention it to him, with all the particu- lars of the Marquis's behaviour* This F of yours, faid he, is an honeft fel- low. Do — -contrive to let us dine with him to-morrow. By the bye, continued he after a little paufe, are not thofe F« " s originally from England i think I have heard of fuch a name in York- fhire* Adieu* 126 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XVI. Paris* I Am uneafy when I hear people aflat* that mankind always a£t from motives of felf-intereft. It creates a fufpicion that thofe who maintain this fyftem, judge of others by their own feelings. This con- clufion, however, may be as erroneous as the general aflertion ; for I have heard it maintained (perhaps from affe&ation) by very difmterefted people, who, when pufh- ed, could not fupport their argument with* out perverting the received meaning of language, — Thofe who perform generous or apparently difinterefted a&ions, fay they, are prompted by felfifh motives by the pleafure which they themfelves feel.— - There are people who have this feeling fo ftrong, that they cannot pafs a miferable objed Manners in France, m. 12? objed without endeavouring to affift him Such people really relieve themfelves whent they relieve the wretched. All this is very true: but is it not a firange affertion, that people are not bene- volent, becaufe they cannot be other- wife ? Two men are (landing near a fruit-fhop. in St. James's ftreet. There are fome pine- apples within the window, and a poor wo- man, with an infant crying at her empty breaft, without. One of the gentlemen, walks in, pays a guinea for a pine-apple, which he calmly devours ; while the wo- man implores him for a penny, to buy her a morfel of bread— and implores in vain : not that this fine gentleman values a penny j but to put his hand in his pocket would give him fome trouble the diftrefs of the woman gives him none. The other man happens to have a guinea in his pocket alfo p 128 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND alfo; he gives it to the woman, walks home, and dines on beef-fteaks, with his wife and children. Without doing injuftice to the tafte of the former, we may believe, that the latter received the greater gratification for his guinea. You will never convince me 5 however, that his motive in bellowing it was as felfifh as the other's. Some few days after the adventure I mentioned in my laft letter, I met F and B at the opera. They had be- come acquainted with each other at my lodgings two days before, according to B 's defire. — It gave me pleafure to fee them on fo good a footing. F invited us to go home and fit an hour with him before we went to bed ; — to which we aiTented. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. i2 9 c The Marquis then told us, we^ Ihould have the pleafure of feeing Fanchon, in her beft gown, and Dubois, with his new leg— for he had ordered his valet to invite them, with two or three of his companions, to a little fupper. While the Marquis was fpeaking, his coach drove up to the door of the opera — where a well-known lady was at that mo- ment waiting for her carriage. B feemed to recoiled: himfelf of a fudden, faying, he muft be excufed from going with us, having an affair of fome importance to tranfa£t at home. The Marquis fmiled — —(hook B • by the hand — faying, c'eft apparemment quelque affaire qui regarde la conftitu- tion, vivent les Anglois pour Pamour patriotique. Vol, I. K When 130 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND When we arrived at the Marquis's, the fervants and their guefts were aflembled in the little garden behind the hotel, and dancing, by moon-light, to Dubois's mufic. He and Fanchon were invited to a glafs of wine in the Marquis's parlour — The poor fellow's heart fwelled at the fight of his benefactor. -He attempted to exprefs his gratitude; but his voice failed, and he could not articulate a word. Vous n'avez pas a faire a des ingrats, Monfieur le Colonel, faid Fanchon. My hufband, continued fhe y is more affe&ed with your goodnefs, that he was by the lofs of his leg, or the cruelty of my rela- tions.— —She then, in a ferious manner, with the voice of gratitude, and in the lan- guage of Nature, exprefled her own and her hufband's obligations to the Marquis j and, amongft others, flie alluded to twenty louis which MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 131 •which her hufband had received de fa part that very afternoon. You intend to make a faint of a finner, my dear, faid the Marquis, and to fucceed the better, you invent falfe miracles. I know nothing of the twenty louis you mention. But I know a great deal ; for here they are in my pocket, fays Dubois. — The Marquis ftill infilled they had not come from him. The foldier then declared, that he had called about one o'clock, to pay his duty to Monfieur de F ; but not finding him at home, he was returning to his lodgings, when, in the fixeet, he obferved a gentleman looking at him with attention, who foon accofted him, demanding if his name was not Dubois ? If he had not loft his leg at Corfica ? and feveral other quef- tions, which being anfwered in the affirm* ative, he flipped twenty louis into his hand, telling him that it would help to furnifh his houfe. Dubois in aftonifh- ment had exclaimed — Mon Dieu! voila K 2 encore i 3 2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND encore Monfieur de F — % Upon which the ftranger had replied :— Yes, he fends you that, by me : and immediately he turned into another ftreet, and Dubois faw no more of him. We were all equally furprifed at the Angularity of this little adventure- On enquiring more particularly about the ap- pearance of the ftranger, I was convinced he could be no other than B >. I remembered he had been affe&ed with the ftory of Dubois when I told it him. You know B is not one of thofe, who allow any emotions of that nature to pafs unimproved, or to evaporate in fentiment. He generally puts them to fome practical ufe.— So having met Dubois accidentally in the ftreet, he had made him this fmall prefent, in the manner above re- lated ; and on his underftanding that Dubois and Fanchon were at F — 's, he MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 133 he had declined going, to avoid any expla- nation on the fubje£t. Had our friend B been a man of fyftem, or much reflection, in his charity, he would have confidered, that as the fol- dier had already been taken good care of, and was under the protection of a generous man, there was no call for his interfering in the bufinefs ; and he would probably have kept his twenty guineas for fome more preffing occafion. There are men in the world (and very ufeful and moft refpe£table men no doubt they are), who examine the pro's and the con's before they decide, upon the moft indifferent occafion ; who are directed in all their actions by propriety, and by the general received notions of duty. They weigh,, in the niceft fcales, every claim that an acquaintance, a re!ation 5 or a friend may have on them ; and they en- K 3 deavour i 3 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND deavour to pay them on demand, as they would a bill of exchange. They calcu- late their income, and proportion every expence ; and hearing it aflerted every week from the pulpit, that there is ex- ceeding good intereft to be paid one time or other, for the money that is given to the poor, they rifk a little every year upon that venture. Their paffions, and their .affairs are always in excellent order; they walk through life undifturbed by the mif- fortunes of others. And when they come to the end of their journey, they are de- cently interred in a church-yard. There is another fet of men, who never calculate; for they are generally guided by the heart, which never was taught arithmetic, and knows nothing of ac-> counts- Their heads have fcarcely a vote in the choice of their acquaintances ; and without the confent of the heart, mod certainly MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 135 certainly none in their friendfliips. They perform a£ts of benevolence, without re- collecting that this is a duty, merely for the pleafure they afford ; and perhaps for- get them, as they do their own pleafures, when paft. As for little occafional charities, thefe are as natural to fuch characters as breath- ing ; and they claim as little merit for the one as for the other, the whole feem- ing an affair of inftindt rather than of re- flection. That the firft of thefe two claffes of men is the moft ufeful in fociety; that their affairs will be conducted with moft circumfpeCtion ; that they will keep out of many fcrapes and difficulties that the others may fall into; and that they are (if you infift upon it very violently) the moft virtuous of the two, I fhall not K 4 difpute; I3 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND difpute : Yet for the foul of me I cannot help preferring the other; for almoft all the friends I have ever had in my life, are of the fecond clafs* MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. *37 LETTER XVII. Paris. ^^Onfidering the natural gaiety and vola- tility of the French nation, I have often been furprifed at their fondnefs for tragedy, efpecially as their tragedies are barren of incident, full of long dialogues, and declamatory fpeeches; — and modelled according to the ftri&eft code of critical legiflation. The mod: fprightly and fafhionable peo- ple of both fexes flock to thefe entertain- ments in preference to ail others, and Men with unrelaxed gravity and attention. One would imagine that fuch a ferious, correct and uniform amufement, would be more congenial with the phlegm, and faturnine difpofitions of the Englifh, than 3 with ,38 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND with the gay, volatile temper of the French . An Englifh audience loves fhow, buftle and incident, in their tragedies ; and have a mortal averfion to long dialogues and fpeeches, however fine the fenti- ments, and however beautiful the language may be* In this it would feem, that the two nations had changed characters. Perhaps it would be difficult to account for it in a fatisfa&ory manner, I fhall not attempt it. A Frenchman would cut the matter fhort, by faying, that the Paris audience has a more correct and juft tafte than that of London ; that the one could be amufed and delighted with poetry and fentiment, while the other could not be kept awake without buftle, guards, proceffions, trum- pets, fighting, and murder. For MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 139 For my own part, I admire the French Melpomene more in the clofet than on the ftage. I cannot be reconciled to the French a&ors of tragedy. Their pompous manner of declaiming feems to me very unnatural. The ftrut, and fuperb ges- tures, and what they call la maniere noble, of their boafted Le Kain, appear in my eyes, a little outre. The juftnefs, the dignified fimplicity, the energy of Garrick's a&ion, have de~ ftroyed my relifh for any manner different from his. That exquifite, but concealed art, that magic power, by which he could melt, freeze, terrify the foul, and com- mand the obedient paffions as he pleafed, we look for in vain, upon our own, or any other ftage. What Horace faid of Nature, may be applied with equal juftice to that unri- valled a∨ 8 — — ~}uvat $ i 4 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND — — Juvat, aut impellit ad iram, Aut ad humum moerore gravi deducit, et angit. One of the mod difficult things in ad> ing is the player's concealing himfelf be- hind the character he a flumes : The inftant the fpe&ator gets a peep of him, the whole illufion vanifhes, and the pleafure is fuc- ceeded by difguft. In Oedipus, Mahomet, and Orofmane, I have always dete&ed Le Kain; but I have feen the Englifh Rofcius reprefent Hamlet, Lear, Richard, without recolle&ing that there w T as fuch a perfon as David Garrick in the world. The French tragedians are apt in my opinion to overjiep the modejly of nature. Nature is not the criterion by which their merit is to be tried.' — The audience mea- fures them by a more fublime ftandard, and if they come not up to that, they can- not pafs mufler. Natural MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 141 Natural a£tion, and a natural elocution, they feem to think incompatible with dig- nity, and imagine that the hero muft an- nounce the greatnefs of his foul by fuper- cilious looks, haughty geftures, and a hol- low founding voice. Such eafy familiar dialogue as Hamlet holds with his old fchool-fellow Horatio, appears to them low, vulgar, and inconfiftent with the dignity of tragedy. But if fimplicity of manners be not in- confiftent in real life, with genius, and the moft exalted greatnefs of mind, I do not fee why the adtor who reprefents a hero, fhould aflume geftures which w r e have no reafon to think were ever in ufe in any age, or among any rank of men. Simplicity of manners, however, isfofar from being inconfiftent with magnanimity, that the one for the moft part accompanies • the i 4 2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND the other. The French have fome reafon to lean to this opinion; for two of the greateft men their nation ever produced were remarkable for the fimplicity of their manners. Henry IV. and Marechal Tu- renne were diftinguifhed by that, as well as by their magnanimity and other heroic virtues. How infinitely fuperior in real greatnefs and intrinfic merit, were thofe men to the ftrutting oftentatious Lewis, who was al- ways affeding a greatnefs he never poffefled, — till misfortune humbled his mind to the ftandard of humanity ? Then indeed, throw- ing away his pageantry and blufter, he af- fumed true dignity, and for the firft time obtained the admiration of the judicious. In the correfpondence with de Torcy, Lewis's letters, which it is now certain were written and compofed by himfelf, prove this, and difplay a foundnefs of judge- ment and real greatnefs of mind which fel- dom MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 143 dom appeared in the meridian of what they call his glory. What Lewis was (in the height of his profperity) to Henry in the eflential quali- ties of a King and Hero, fuch is Le Kain to Garrick as an aftor. The French flage can boaft at prefent of more than one a&refs who may difpute the laurel of tragedy with Mrs. Yates, or Mrs. Barry. In comedy, the French a&ors excel, and can produce at all times a greater number far above mediocrity, than are to be found on the Englifh ftage. The national character and manners of the French give them perhaps advantages in this line; and befides, they have more numerous refources to fupply them with adtors of every kind. In all the large trading ,44 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND trading and manufacturing towns, of which there are a great number in France, there are playhoufes eftablifhed. The fame thing takes place in moft of the frontier towns, and wherever there is a garrifon of two or three regiments. There are companies of French come- dians alfo at the northern courts, in all the large towns of Germany, and at fome of the courts of Italy. All of thefe are aca- demies which educate a&ors for the Paris ftage. In genteel comedy particularly, I ima- gine the French adors excel ours. They have in general more the appearance of people of fafhion. There is not fuch a difference between the manners and behaviour of the people of the firft rank, and thofe of the middle and lower ranks., in France as in England. Players MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 145 Players therefore, who wifh to catch the manners of people of high rank and fafhion, do not undertake fo great a talk in the one country as in the other. You very feldom meet with an Englifh fervant who could pafs for a man of quality or fafhion; and accordingly very few people who have been in that fituation ever ap- pear on the Englifh ftage: But there are many valets de place in Paris fo very polite, fo completely poffefled of all the little eti- quettes, fafhionable phrafes, and ufual airs of the beau monde, that if thev were fet off bv the ornaments of drefs and equipage, they would pafs in many of the courts of Eu- rope for men of fafhion, tres polis,— bien aimables, — tout-a-fait comine il faut, et avec infiniment d'efprit; and could be de- tected only at the court of France, or by fuch foreigners as have had opportunities of obferving, and penetration to diftinguifh, the genuine eafe, and natural politenefs, Vol. L L which i 4 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND which prevail among the people of rank in this country. In the character of a lively, petulant, genteel petit-maitre of fafhion, Molle excels any ador in London* The fuperiority of the French in gen-* teel comedy is ftill more evident with re- gard to the adreffes. Very few Englifh adreffes have appeared equal to the parts of Lady Betty Modifh, in The Carelefs Hufband, or of Miilamant, in The Way of the World. Grofs abfurdity, extravagant folly and affedation are eafily imitated; but the elegant coquetry, the lively, play- ful, agreeable affectation of thefe two finely imagined characters, require greater powers. I imagine, however, from the execution I have obferved in fimilar parts, that there are feveral adreffes on the French ftage at prefenc who could do them ample juftice. Except Mrs, Barry and Mrs, Ahington, I know no adrefs MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 147 a&refs in England who could give an ade- quate idea of all that Congreve meant in Millamant. It is remarkable, that the latter alfo ex- cels in a character the mod perfectly oppo- fite to this, that of an ill taught, aukward, country girl. Perhaps there is no fuch young lady in France as Congreve's Mifs Prue: but if there were many fuch origi- nals, no a&refs in that kingdom could give a copy more exquifite than Mrs. Abington's. In low comedy the French are delightful, I can form no notion of any thing fuperior to Preville in many of his parts. The little French operas which are given at the Comedie Italienne are executed in a much more agreeable manner than any thing of the fame kind at London. Their ballettes alfo are more beautiful : — There is a gentillefle and legerete in their manner L 2 of i 4 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND of reprefenting -thcfe little fanciful pieces, which make our fingers and dancers ap- pear fomewhat aukward and clumfy in the comparifon. As for the Italian pieces, they are now performed only thrice a week, and the French feem to have loft in a great mea- lure their relifh for them. Carlin, the ce- lebrated Harlequin, is the only fupport of thefe pieces. You are acquainted with the wonderful naivete and comic powers of this man, which make us forget the extra- vagance of the Italian drama, and which can create obje&s of unbounded mirth, from a chaos of the mod incoherent and abfurd materials. An advantageous figure, a graceful man- ner, a good voice, a ftrong memory, an ac- curate judgment, are all required in a play- er : Senfibility, and the power of expreff- ing the emotions of the heart by the voice and MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 149 and features, are indifpenfable. It feems therefore unreafonable, not to confider that profeffion as creditable, in which we ex- pert fo many qualities united ; while many others are thought refpe&able, in which we daily fee people arrive at eminence without common fenfe. This prejudice is ftill ftronger in France than in England. In a company where Monf. le Kain was, mention happened to be made, that the King of France had juft granted a penfion to a certain fuperannuated a£tor. An officer prefent, fixing his eyes on Le Kain, exprefTed his indignation at fo much being bellowed on a rafcally player, while he himfelf had got nothing. Eh, Monfieur ! retorted the a£tor, comptez-vous pour rien la liberte de me parler ainfi ? VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XVIII. Geneva, J Found myfelf fo much hurried during the laft week of my ftay at Paris, that it was not in my power to write to you* Ten thoufand little affairs, which might have been arranged much better, and per- formed with more eafe, had they been tranfa&ed as they occurred, were all crowd- ed, by the flothful demon of procraftina- tion, into the laft buftling week, and exe- cuted in an imperfed manner. I have often admired, without being able perfedly to imitate, thofe who have the happy talent of intermingling bufinefs with amufement. Pleafure MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 151 Pleafure and bufinefs contraft and give a relifh to each other, like day and night, the conftant viciffitudes of which are far more delightful than an uninterrupted half year of either would be. To pafs life in the moft agreeable man- ner, one ought not to be fo much a man of pleafure as to poftpone any neceflary bufi- nefs; nor fo much a man of bufinefs as to defpife elegant amufement. A proper mix- ture of both forms a more infallible fpeci- fic againft tedum and fatigue, than a con- ftant regimen of the moft pleafant of the two. As foon as I found the D«— of H— — - difpofed to leave Paris, I made the neceflary arrangements for our departure, and a few days after we began our journey. Pafling through Dijon, Chalons, Macon, gnd a country delightful to behold, but L 4 tedious x 5 2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND tedious to defcribe, we arrived on the fourth day at Lyons. After Paris, Lyons is the mod magni- ficent town in France, enlivened by in- duftry, enriched by commerce, beautified by wealth, and by its fituation, in the mid- dle of a fertile country, and at the conflu- ence of the Saone and the Rhone. The numbers of inhabitants are eftimated at 200,000. The theatre is accounted the fined in France, and all the luxuries in Paris are to be found at Lyons, though not in equal perfedion. The manners and converfation of mer- chants and manufacturers have been gene- rally confidered as peculiar to themfelves. It is very certain that there is a finking difference in thefe particulars between the inhabitants of all the manufacturing and commercial towns of Britain, and thofe of Weftminfter. I could not remark the fame difference MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 153 difference between the manners and addrefs of the people of Lyons and the courtiers of Verfailles itfelf. There appeared to me a wonderful fimi- litude between the two. It is probable, however, that a Frenchman would perceive a difference where I could not. A foreigner does not obferve the different accents in which an Engliihman, a Scotchman, and an Irifliman fpeak Bnglifh; neither per- haps does he obferve any difference between the manners and addrefs of the inhabitants of Briftol, and thofe of Grofvenor-fquare, though all thefe are obvious to a native of England* After a fhort ftay at Lyons, we pro- ceeded to Geneva, and here we have re- mained thefe three weeks, without feeling the fmalleft inclination to fhift the fcene. That I fhould wifli to remain here is no way furprifing, but it was hardly to be 3 expe&ed i 5 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND expected that the D— of H would have been of the fame mind. — Fortunately, however, this is the cafe. — I know no place on the continent to which we could go with any probability of gaining by the change: The opportunities of improvement here are many, the amufements are few in number, and of a moderate kind : The hours glide along very fmoothly, and though they are not always quickened by pleafure, they are unretarded by languor, find unruffled by remorfe, As for myfelf, I have been fo very often and fo miferably difappointed in my hopes of happinefs by change, that I fhall not, without fome powerful motive, incline to forego my prefent ftate of content, for the chance of more exquifite enjoyments in a different place or fituation. I have at length learnt by my own ex- perience (for not one in twenty profits by 8 the MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 155* the experience of others), that one great fource of vexation proceeds from our in- dulging too fanguine hopes of enjoyment from the bleffings we expedl, and too much indifference for thofe we polfefs. We fcorn a thoufand fources of fatisfa&ion which we might have had in the interim, and permit our comfort to be difturbed, and our time to pafs unenjoyed, from im- patience for fome imagined pleafure at a diftance, which we may perhaps never ob- tain, or which, when obtained, may change its nature, and be no longer pleafure. Young fays> The prefent moment, like a wife, we fhun, And ne'er enjoy, becaufe it is our own. The devil thus cheats men both out of the enjoyment of this life and of that which is to come, making us in the firft place prefer the pleafures of this life to thofe of gL future ftate, and then continually prefer future v< 5 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND future pleafures in this life to thofe which are prefent. The fum of all thefe apophthegms amounts to this: — We fhall certainly remain at Geneva till we become more tired of it than at prefent. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c.^iS7 LETTER XIX. HE fituation of Geneva is in many re- fpe&s as happy as the heart of man could defire, or his imagination conceive. The Rhone, rufhing out of the nobleft lake in Europe, flows through the middle of the city, which is encircled by fertile fields, cul- tivated by the induftry, and adorned by the riches and tafte, of the inhabitants. The long ridge of mountains called Mount Jura on the one fide, with the Alps, the Glaciers of Savoy, and the fbowy head of Mont Blanc on the other, ferve as boun- daries to the mod charmingly variegated landfcape that ever delighted the eye. Geneva. With i 5 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND With thefe advantages in point of fitua«* tion, the citizens of Geneva enjoy freedom untainted by licentioufnefs, and fecurity unbought by the horrors of war. The great number of men of letters* who either are natives of the place, or have chofen it for their refidence, the decent manners, the eafy circumftances, and hu- mane difpofitions of the Genevois in gene- ral, render this city and its environs a very defirable retreat for people of a philofophic turn of mind, who are contented with mo- derate and calm enjoyments, have no local attachments or domeftic reafons for pre- ferring another country, and who wifh in a certain degree to retire from the buftle of the w r orld, to a narrower and calmer icene, and there for the reft of their days— Ducere folicitse jucunda oblivia vits. As education here is equally cheap and liberal, the citizens of Geneva of both fexes are MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 159 are remarkably well inftru&ed. I do not imagine that any country in the world can produce an equal number of perfons (taken without eledtion from all degrees and pro- feffions) with minds fo much cultivated as the inhabitants of Geneva poflefs. It is not uncommon to find mechanics in the intervals of their labour amufing themfelves with the works of Locke* Mon- tefquieu, Newton, and other produ&ions of the fame kind. When I fpeak of the cheapnefs of a li- beral education, I mean for the natives and citizens only; for ftrangers now find every thing dear at Geneva. Wherever English- men refort, this is the cafe. If they do not find things dear, they foon make them fo. The democratical nature of their go- vernment infpires every citizen with an idea of his own importance : He perceives that i6o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND that no man in the republic can infult, or even negledt him, with impunity. It is an excellent circumftance in any government, when the moft powerful man in the ftate has fomething to fear from the moft feeble. This is the cafe here : The meaneft citizen of Geneva is poffefied of certain rights, which render him an obje£t deferving the attention of the greateft. Be- fides, a confcioufnefs of this makes him re- fpe£fc himfelf ; a fentiment, which, within proper bounds, has a tendency to render a man refpe&able to others. The general character of human nature forbids us to expedt that men will always adt from motives of public fpirit, without an eye to private intereft. The beft form of government, therefore, is that in which the intereft of individuals is moft intimate- ly blended with the public good. — This may be more perfectly accomplifhed in a fmall MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 161 fmall republic than in a great monarchy.— In the firft, men of genius and virtue are difcovered and called to offices of truft by the impartial admiration of their fellow- citizens — in the other, the highefi places are difpofed of by the caprice of the prince, or of his miftrefs, or of thofe courtiers, male or female, who are neareft his perfon, watch the variations of his humour, and know how to feize the fmiling moments, and turn them to their own advantage or that of their dependents. Montefquieu fays, that a fenfe of honour produces the fame effeds in a monarchy, that public fpi- rit or patriotifm does in a republic: It muft be remembered, however, that the firft, ac- cording to the modern acceptation of the word, is generally confined to the nobility and gentry ; whereas public fpirit is a more univerfal principle, and fpreads through all the members of the commonwealth. Vol. L M As 162 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND As far as I can judge, a fpirit of inde- pendency and freedom, tempered by fenti- ments of decency and the love of order, in- fluence, in a molt remarkable manner, the minds of the fubje£ts of this happy re- public. Before I knew them, I had formed an opinion, that the people of this place were fanatical, gloomy-minded, and unfociable as the puritans in England, and the prefby- terians in Scotland were, during the civil wars, and the reigns of Charles II. and his brother. In this, however, I find I had conceived a very erroneous notion. There is not, I may venture to aflert, a city in Europe where the minds of the people are lefs under the influence of fuper- ftition or fanatical enthufiafm than at Ge- neva. Servetus, were he now alive, would not run the fmalleft rifk of perfecution. The prefent clergy have, I am perfuaded, as MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 163 as little the inclination as the power of mo- lefting any perfon for fpeculative opinions* Should the Pope himfelf chufe this city for a retreat, it would be his own fault if he did not live in as much fecurity as at the Vatican. The clergy of Geneva in general are men of fenfe, learning, and moderation, impreff- ing upon the minds of their hearers the tenets of Chriftianity with all the graces of pulpit eloquence, and illuftrating the efficacy of the doctrine by their conduct in life. The people of every ftation in this place attend fermons and the public worfhip with remarkable punctuality. The Sunday is honoured with the mod refpe&ful , deco- rum during the hours of divine fervice; but as foon as that is over> all the ufual amufe- meats commence, M z The 1 64 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The public walks are crowded by all de- grees of people in their beft drefles. — The different focieties, and what they call circles, aflemble in the houfes and gardens of indi- viduals, — They play at cards and at bowls, and have parties upon the lake with mufic. There is one cuftom univerfal here, and, as far as I know, peculiar to this place : The parents form focieties for their chil- dren at a very early period of their lives. Thefe focieties confift of ten, a dozen, or more children of the fame fex, and nearly of the fame age and fituation in life. They aflemble once a week in the houfes of the different parents, who entertain the com- pany by turns with tea, coffee, bifcuits and fruit ; and then leave the young affembly to the freedom of their own converfation. This connexion is ftridly kept up through life, whatever alterations may take place MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 165 place in the fituations or circumftances of the individuals. And although they Ihould afterwards form new or preferable intima- cies, they never entirely abandon this fo- ciety; but to the lateft period of their lives continue to pafs a few evenings every year with the companions of their youth and their earlieft friends. The richer clafs of the citizens have country-houfes adjacent to the town, where they pafs one half of the year. Thefe houfes are all of them neat, and fome of them fplendid. One piece of magnificence they poiTefs in greater perfedion than the moft fuperb villa of the greateft lord in any other part of the world can boaft, I mean the profpect which almoft all of them command. — The gardens and vineyards of the republic, — the Pais de Vaux ; — Geneva with its lake; — innumerable country-feats; —-caftles, and little towns around the lake; *-the vallies of Savoy, and the loftieft M 3 moun- 166 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND mountains of the Alps, all within one fweep of the eye. Thofe whofe fortunes or employments do not permit them to pafs the fummer in the country, make frequent parties of plea- fure upon the lake, and dine and fpend the evening at fome of the villages in the envi- rons, where they amufe themfelves with mufic and dancing. Sometimes they form themfelves into circles confifting of forty or fifty perfons, and purchafe or hire a houfe and garden near the town, where they affemble every afternoon during the fummer, drink coffee, lemonade, and other refrefhing liquors j and amufe themfelves with cards, conver- fation, and playing at bowls; a game very different from that which goes by the fame name in England ; for here, inftead of a fmooth level green, they often chufe the rougheft and jnoft unequal piece of ground* g MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 167 ground. The player, inftead of rolling the bowl, throws it in fuch a manner, that it refts in the place where it firft touches the ground; and if that be a fortunate fituation, the next player pitches his bowl dire&ly on his adverfary's, fo as to make that fpring away, while his own fixes itfelf in the fpot from which the other has been diflodged.-*— Some of the citizens are aftonifliingly dex- terous at this game, which is more com- plicated and interefting than the Englifh manner of playing. They generally continue thefe circles till the dufk of the evening, and the found of the drum from the ramparts call them to the town ; and at that time the gates are fhut, after which no perfon can enter or go out, the officer of the guard not having the power to open them, without an order from the Syndics, which is not to be ob- tained but on fome great emergency, M 4 163 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XX. Geneva. HE mildnefs of the climate, the fublime beauties of the country, and the agreeable manners of the inhabitants, are not, in my opinion, the greateft attrac- tions of this place. Upon the fame hill, in the neighbour- hood of Geneva, three Englifh families at prefent refide, whofe fociety would render any country agreeable. The houfe of Mr. N is a temple of hofpitality, good humour, and friendfhip. Near to him lives your acquaintance Mr. U . He perfectly anfwers your de- fcription, lively, fenfible, and obliging ; and, MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 169 and 5 I imagine, happier than ever you faw him, having fince that time drawn a great prize in the matrimonial lottery. Their neareft neighbours are the family of Mr. L . This gentleman, his lady and children, form one of the moll pleafing pi&ures of domeftic felicity I ever beheld. He himfelf is a man of refined tafte, a be- nevolent mind, and elegant manners. Thefe three families, who live in the greateft cordiality with the citizens of Ge- neva, their own countrymen, and one another, render the hill of Cologny the mod delightful place perhaps at this mo- ment in the world. The Englifh gentlemen, who refide in the town, often refort hither, and mix with parties of the beft company of Geneva. I am 170 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I am told, that our young countrymen never were on fo friendly and fociable a foot- ing with the citizens of this republic as at prefent, owing in a great degree to the con- ciliatory manners of thefe three families, and to the great popularity of an Englifti nobleman, who has lived with his lady and fon in this ftate for feveral years, I formerly mentioned, that all who live in town, muft return from their vifits in the country at fun-fet, otherwife they arc certain of being fhut out; — the Genevois being wonderfully jealous of the external, as well as the internal enemies of their in- dependency. This jealoufy has been trans- mitted from one generation to another, ever fince the attempt made by the Duke of Savoy, in the year 1602, to feize upon the town. He marched an army, in the middle of a dark night, in the time of peace, to the gates* MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 171 gates, applied fcaling ladders to the ram- parts and walls, and having furprifed the centinels, feveral hundreds of the Sa- voyard foldiers had actually got into the town, and the reft were following, when they were at length difcovered by a woman, who gave the alarm. The Genevois ftarted from their fleep, feized the readied arms they could find, attacked the affailants with fpirit and energy, killed numbers in the ftreet, drove others out of the gate, or tumbled them over the ramparts, and the few who were taken prifoners, they beheaded next morning, without further procefs or cere- mony* The Genevois annually diftinguifh the day on which this memorable exploit was performed, as a day of public thanks- giving and rejoicing. It i 7 z VIEW OF SOCIETY AND It is called le jour de l'Efcalade. There is divine worlhip in all the churches. 1 The clergymen, on this occafion, after fermon, recapitulate all the circumftances of this interefting event; put the audience in mind of the gratitude they owe to Di- vine Providence, and to the valour of their anceftors, which faved them in fo remark- able a n -ner from civil and religious bondage ; enumerate the peculiar blefiings which they enjoy; and exhort them, in the moil: pathetic ftrainj to watch over their liberties, remain fteady in their religion, and tranfmit thefe, and all their other ad- vantages, unimpaired to their pofterity. The evening of the jour de PEfcalade is fpent in viliting, feafling, dancing, and all kinds of diverfions; for the Genevois fel- dom venture on great feftivity, till they have previoufly performed their religious duties 41 In this, obferving the maxim 3 of MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 173 t)f the Pfalmift, — to join trembling with their mirth. The State keeps in pay a garrifon of fix hundred mercenaries, who mount guard and do duty every day. But they do not truft the fafety of the republic to thefe alone. All citizens of Geneva are foldiers. They are exercifed feveral hours, daily, for two months, every fummer; during which time they wear their uni- forms, and at the end of that period are reviewed by the Syndics. As they receive no pay, and as the offi- cers are their fellow-citizens/ it cannot be imagined that thefe troops will perform the manual exercife and military evolutions, with the exa&nefs of foldiers who have no other occupation, and who are under all the rigour of military difcipline. Never- i 74 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Neverthelefs they make a very refpeft-* able figure in the eyes even of difinterefted fpedators; who are, however, but few in number, the greater part confiding of their own parents, wives and children. So, I dare fwear, there are no troops in the world, who, at a review, are beheld with more approbation than thofe of Geneva, Even a ftranger of a moderate fhare of fenfibility, who recolle&s the conne&ion between the troops and the beholders, who obferves the anxiety, the tendernefs, the exultation, and various movements of the heart, which appear in the countenances of the fpe&ators, will find it difficult to re- ' main unconcerned: But fympathifing with all around him, he will naturally yield to the pleafing emotions, and at length behold the militia of Geneva with the eyes of a citizen of the republic. Geneva, MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 175 Geneva, like all free ftates, is expofed to party-rage, and the public harmony is fre- quently interrupted by political fquabbles. Without entering into a detail of the par- ticular difputes which agitate them at pre- fent, I fhall tell you in general, that one part of the citizens are accufed of a defign of throwing all the power into the hands of a few families, and of eftablilhing a complete ariftocracy. The other oppofes every meafure which is fuppofed to have that tendency, and by their adverfaries are accufed of feditious defigns. It is difficult for ftrangers who refide here any confiderable time, to obferve a ftri£t neutrality. The Englifh in particu- lar are exceedingly difpofed to take part with one fide or other; and as the govern- ment has not hitherto attempted to bribe them, they generally attach themfelves to the oppofition. Walking %j6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Walking one afternoon with a young nobleman, who, to a ftrong tafte for natu- ral philofophy, unites the moil: paffionate zeal for civil liberty, we paffed near the garden, in which one of thofe circles which fupport the pretenfions of the magiftracy aflemble. I propofed joining them. No, faid my Lord, with indignation; I will not go for a moment into fuch a fociety : I confider thefe men as the enemies of their country, and that place as a focus for con- fuming freedom. Among the citizens themfelves, political altercations are carried on with great fire and fpirit. A very worthy old gentleman, in whofe houfe I have been often entertained with great hofpitality, declaiming warmly againft certain meafures of the council, afferted, that all thofe who had promoted them deferved death; and if it depended on him, they fliould all be hanged, with- out lofs of time. His brother, who was in Manners in f&anc£, & c . i 77 in that predicament, interrupted him, and faid, with a tone of voice which feemed to beg for mercy, Good God ! brother ! furely you would not pufh your refentment fo far: you would not actually hang them ? Oui allurement, replied the patriot, with a de- termined countenance, et vous, mon tres cher frere, vous feriez le premier pendu pour montrer mon impartiality Vol. L N i 7 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XXI. Geneva. LTHOUGH this republic has long continued in a profound peace, and there is no great probability of its being foon engaged in bloody conflict, yet the citizens of Geneva are not the lefs fond of the pomp of wan This appears in what they call their mi- litary feafts, which are their mod favourite amufements, and which they take every opportunity of enjoying* I was prefent lately at a very grand en- tertainment of this kind, which was given by the King of the Arquebufiers upon his acceffion to the royal dignity. This MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 179 This envied rank is neither tranfmitted by hereditary right, nor obtained by elec- tion ; but gained by Ikill and real merit. A war with this ftate, like the war of Troy, muft neceflfarily confift of a fiege. The fkilful ufe of the cannon and arquebufe is therefore thought to be of the greateft importance. During feveral months every year, a confiderable number of the citizens are almoft conftantly employed in firing at a mark, which is placed at a proper dif- tance. Any citizen has a right, at a fmall ex- pence, to make trial of his {kill in this way; and after a due number of trials, the moft expert markfman is declared King. There has not been a coronation of this kind thefe ten years, his late Majefty hav- ing kept peaceable poffeffion of the throne N 2 during i8o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND during that period. But this fummer, Mr, Mofes Maudrier was found to excel in fkill every competitor ;* and was raifed to the throne by the unanimous voice of the judges. He was attended to his own houfe from the field of conteft by the Syndics, amidft the acclamations of the people. Some time after this, on the day of his feaft, a camp was formed on a plain, without the gates of the city. Here the whole forces of the republic, both horfe and foot, were aflembled, and divided into two diftinft armies. They were to perform a battle in honour of his Majefty, all the combatants having previ- oufly ftudied their parts. This very ingenious, warlike drama had Jbeen compofed by one of the reverend minifters* MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 181 minifters, who is faid to poffefs a very ex- tenfive military genius. That the ladies and people of diftino tion, who were not to be actually engaged, might view the adion with the greater eafe and fafety, a large amphitheatre of feats was prepared for them, at a convenient diftance from the field of battle. Every thing being in readinefs, the Syn- dics 5 the Council, ftrangers of diftin£tion, and the relations and favourites of the King, aflembled at his Majefty's palace, which is a little fnug houfe, fituated in a narrow lane in [the lower part of the city. From the palace, the proceffion fet out in the follow- ing order ; His Majefty walked firft, fupported by the two eldeft Syndics. N 3 la m VIEW OF SOCIETY AND In the next rank was the Duke of with the youngeft. After thefe, walked Lord St— pe, the Prince GaUitzen*— Mr. CI — ve, fon to Lord Ci—ve j Mr, Gr— He, fon to the late Mi- ni fter ; Mr. St. L , and many other Engliih gentlemen, who had been invited to the feaft. Next to them came the Council of twen- ty-rive j and the proceffion was clofed by the King s particular friends and relations. In this order they marched through the city, preceded by a band of mufic, who played, as you may believe, the moft martial tunes they poffibly could think of* When this company came to the field ere the troops were drawn up, they were MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 183 were faluted by the officers; and having made a complete circuit of both armies, the King and all his attendants took their feats at the amphitheatre, which had been prepared for that purpofe. The impatience of the troops had been, very vifible for fome time. When the King was feated, their ardour could be no longer reftrained. They called loudly to their officers to lead them to glory. The fignal was given.— They advanced to the attack in the moft undaunted man- ner. Confcious that they fought under the eyes of their King, the Syndics, of their wives, children, mothers and grand- mothers, they difdained the thoughts of retreat. — — They flood undifturbed by the thickeft fire. They fmiled at the roaring of the cannon, and like the horfe in Job, they cried among the trumpets, ha, ha ! N 4 The j8 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The ingenious author of the battle had taken care to diversify it with feveral en- tertaining incidents. An ambufcade was placed by one of the armies! behind fome trees, to furprife the enemy. — -*-This fucceeded to a miracle, although the ambufcade was pofted in the fight of both armies, and all the fpeda- tors. A convoy with provifions, advancing towards one of the armies, was attacked by a detachment from the other ; and after a fmart fkirmifh, one half of the waggons were carried away by the aflailants : — The other remained with the troops for whom they feemed to have been originally in?* tended. A wooden bridge was brifkly attacked, and as refolutely defended j but at length was trod to pieces by both armies ; for, in $hp fsiry of the fight, the combatants for- got MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 185 got whether this poor bridge was their friend or their foe. By what means it got into the midft of the battle, I never could conceive; for there was neither river, brook, nor ditch in the whole field. The cavalry on both fides performed wonders. It was difficult to determine which of the generals diftinguifhed him- felf moft. They were both dreffed in clothes exuberantly covered with lace; for the fumptuary laws were fufpended for this day, that the battle might be as mag* nificent as poffible. As neither of thefe gallant commanders would confent to the being defeated, the reverend author of the engagement could not make the cataftrophe fo depifjve and afFe&ing as he intended. While Vi&ory, with equipoifed wings, Iioyered over both armies, a meflenger ar- rived i86 VIEW OF SOCIETY A N t> rived from the town-hall with intelligence that dinner was ready. This news quickly fpread among the combatants, and had an effedt fimilar to that which the Sabine wo- men produced when they rufhed between their ravifhers and their relations. — The warriors of Geneva relented at once j and both armies fufpended their animofity, in the contemplation of that which they both loved They threw down their arms, ihook hands, and were friends. Thus ended the battle.— — I don't know how it will affe£t you ; but it has fatigued me fo completely, that I have loft all appe- tite for the feaft, which muft therefore be delayed till another poft. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 187 LETTER XXII. Geneva. HE fame company which had attended the King to the field of battle, marched with him in procefiion from that to the Maifon de Ville, where a fumptuous en- tertainment was prepared* This was exa&ly the reverfe of a fete ehampetre, being held in the town-houfe, and in the middle of the ftreets adjacent ; where tables were covered, and dinner pro- vided, for feveral hundreds of the officers and foldiers. The King, the Syndics, moft of the members of the Council, and $11 the ftran- gers, dined in the towa-halL The other rooms, m VIEW OF SOCIETY AND rooms, as well as the outer court, were likewife full of company. There was much greater havoc at din- ner than had been at the battle, and the en- tertainment in other refpe&s was nearly as warlike. A kettle-drum was placed in the middle of the hall, upon which a martial flourifh was performed at every toaft. This was immediately anfwered by the drums and trumpets without tjie hall, and the cannon of the baftiorj. Profperity to the republic is a favourite foaft : — When this was announced by the firft Syndic, all the company flood up with their fwords drawn in one hand, and glafles filled with wine in the other. Having drank the toaft, they claftied their fwords, a ceremony always performed in every circle or club where there is a pub*- liq MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. ijf 9 lie dinner, as often as this particular toaft is named. It is an old cuftom, and im- plies that every man is ready to fight in defence of the republic. After we had been about two hours at table, a new ceremony took place, which I expe&ed as little in the middle of a feaft. An hundred grenadiers, with their fwords drawn, marched with great folemnity into the middle of the hall, for the tables being placed in the form of a horfe-fhoe, there was vacant fpace in the middle fufficient to admit them. They defired permiffion to give a toaft : This being granted, each of the grenadiers, by a well timed movement, like a motion in the exercife, pulled from his pocket a large water glafs, which being immediately filled with wine, one of the foldiers, in the name of all, drank a health to King Mofes the firft. His example was followed by his compa- tfp VIEW OF SOCIETY AND companions and all the company, and wag inftantly honoured by the found of the drums, trumpets, and artillery. When the grenadiers had drank this* and a toaft or two more, they wheeled about, and marched out of the hall with the fame folemnity with which they had entered, refuming their places at the tables in the ftreet. Soon after this a man fantaftically drefled entered the hall, and diftributed among the company fome printed fheets which feemed to have come dire&ly from the prefs. This proved to be a fong made for the occafion, replete with gaiety, wit, and good fenfe, pointing out, in a humorous ftrain, the advantages which the citizens of Geneva poffeffed, and exhorting them to un- animity, induftry, and public fpirit.- — This ditty was fung by the man who brought it, while MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 191 while many of the company joined in the chorus. When we defcended from the town-hall, we found the foldiers intermingled with their officers, ftill feated at the tables in the ftreets, and encircled by their wives and children. They all arofe foon after, and dividing into different companies, repaired to the ramparts, the fields, and the gardens, where, with mufic and dancing, they con- tinued in high glee during the reft of the evening. The whole exhibition of the day, though no very juft reprefentation of the manoeuvres of war, or the elegance of a court enter- tainment, formed the mod lively picture of jollity, mirth, good-humour and cordi- ality, that I had ever feen. The i 9 2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The inhabitants of a whole city,— of a whole ftate if you pleafe, united in one fcene of good fellowfhip, like a fingle fa- mily, is furely no common fight. If this fketch conveys one half of the fatisfa&ion to your mind, which the fcene itfelf afforded mine, you will not think thefe two long letters tedious. Manners in France, &c 193 LETTER XXIII. Geneva* HERE are fome of the citizens of Geneva themfelves who deride the little military eftablifhment of the repub- lic, and declate it to be highly ridiculous in fuch a feeble ftate to prefume that they could defend themfelves. The very idea of refiftance againft Savoy or France, they hdld as abfurdo They feem to take pleafure in mortify- ing their countrymen, afluring them, that in cafe of an attack all their efforts would be fruitlefs, and their garrifon unable to ftand a fiege of ten days. Thefe politicians declaim againft the tieedlefs expence of keeping the fortifica- Vol. I, O tions i 9 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND tions in repair, and they calculate the mo- ney loft, by fo many manufacturers being employed in wielding ufelefs firelocks, inftead of the tools of their refpe&ive pro- feffions. Were I a member of this republic, I fhould have no patience with thefe difcou- jraging malcontents, who endeavour to de- prefs the minds of their countrymen, and embitter a fource of real enjoyment. I am convinced that the garrifon, fmall as it is, aided by the zeal of the inhabitants, and regulated by that fhare of difcipline which their fituation admits, would be fuf- ficient to fecure them from a coup-de-main, or any immediate infult, and might enable them to defend the town from the attempts of any one of the neighbouring ftates, till they fliould receive fuccour from fome of the others. Xnde- MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 195 Independent of thefe confiderations, the jramparts are moft agreeable walks, conve- nient for the inhabitants, and ornamental to the city. The exercifing and reviewing the militia form an innocent and agreeable fpe&acle to the women and children, contribute to the health and amufement of the troops them- felves, and infpirethe inhabitants in general with the pleafing ideas of fecurity and of their own importance. Upon the whole, I am convinced that the fortifications, and the militia of Geneva, produce more happinefs, in thefe various ways taken together, than could be pur- chafed by all the money they coft, expended in any other manner. This I imagine is more than can be faid in favour of the greater part of the {land- ing armies on the continent of Europe, O 2 whofe 196 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND whofe numbers fecure the defpotifm of the prince, whofe maintenance is a mod feverc burden upon the countries which fupport them, and whofe difcipline, inftead of ex- citing pleafing emotions, imprefles the mind with horror. The individuals who compofe thofe ar- mies are miferable, by the tyranny exercifed on them, and are themfelves the caufe of mifery to their fellow-citizens by the ty- ranny they exercife. But it will be faid they defend the na- tion from foreign enemies. — Alas, could a foreign conqueror occafion more wretched- nefs than fuch defenders ? When he who calls himfelf my prote&or has flapped me of my property, and deprived me of my freedom, I cannot return him very cordial thanks, when he tells me, that he will de- fend me from every other robber. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 197 The mod folid fecurity which this little republic has for its independency, is found- ed on the mutual jealoufy of its neigh- bours. There is no danger of its meeting with the misfortune which has fo lately befallen Poland. — Geneva is fuch an atom of a ftate as not to be divifible., It ferves, however, as a kind of barrier or alarm-poft to the Swifs Cantons, particu- larly that of Bern, which certainly would not like to fee it in the hands either of the King of France or of Sardinia. The acquifition is not worth the atten- tion of the firft ; and it is better for the fecond, that the republic fhould re- main in its prefent free and independ- ent fituation, than that it fhould revert to his pofTeffion, and be fubjeded to the fame government with his other domi- nions. Q 3 For i 9 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND For no fooner would Geneva be in the poffeffion of Sardinia, than the wealthieft of the citizens would abandon it, and carry their families and riches to Switzerland, Holland, or England. Trade and manufactures would dwindle with the fpirit and independence of the in- habitants ; and the fiourifhing, enlightened, happy city of Geneva, like other towns of Piedmont and Savoy, would become the refidence of oppreffion, fuperftition, and poverty. In this fituation it could add but little to the King's revenue; whereas, at prefent, the peafants of his dominions refort in great numbers to Geneva every market-day* where they find a ready fale for all the pro- ductions of their farms. The land is, on this account, more valuable, and the pea- fants are more at their eafe, though the taxes are very high, than in any other part of Savoy. This MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 199 This republic, therefore, in its prefent independent ftate, is of more ufe to the King of Sardinia, than if it were his property. If a wealthy merchant fhould purchafe a piece of ground from a poor Lord, build a large houfe, and form beautiful gardens upon it, keep a number of fervants, fpend a great part of his revenue in good houfe- keeping and hofpitality, the confump- tion of his table, and many other articles, being purchafed from this Lord's tenants, it is evident that they would become rich, and be able to pay a larger rent to their landlord. This Lord would certainly a£t againft his own intereft, if he attempted, by law, chicane, or force, to difpoffefs the proprietor of the houfe and gardens. The free republic of Geneva is to the King of Sardinia, exadly what the fup- pofed rich man would be to the poor Lord. It 200 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND It affords me fatisfa£tion to perceive, that the ftability of this little fabric of freedom, raifed by my friends the citizens of Ge- neva, does not depend on the juftice and moderation of the neighbouring powers, or any equivocal fupport ; but is founded on the folid, lafting pillars of their mutual irv* terelh MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. %o% LETTER XXIV. Geneva. J Returned a few days fince from a jour- ney to the Glaciers of Savoy, the Pays de Vallais, and other places among the Alps. The wonderful accounts I had heard of the Glaciers had excited my curiofity a good deal, while the air of fuperiority af- fumed by fome who had made this boafted tour, piqued my pride ftill more. One could hardly mention any thing curious or fingular, without being told by fome of thofe travellers, with an air of cool contempt — Dear Sir, — that is pretty well ; but, take my word for it, it is nothing to £he Glaciers of Savoy. % I deter- 202 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I determined at laft not to take their word for it, and I found fome gentlemen of the fame way of thinking. The party confifted of the Duke of H , Mr. U — % Mr. G , Mr. K , and myfelf. , We left Geneva early in the morning of the third of Auguft, and breakfafted at Bonneville* a fmall town in the duchy of Savoy, fituated at the foot of Mole, and on the banks of the river Arve. The fummit of Mole, as we were told* is about 4600 Englilh feet above the lake of Geneva, at the lower pafTage of the Rhone, which laft is about 1200 feet above the level of the Mediterranean. For thefe particulars, I fhall take the word of my in- former, whatever airs of fuperiority he may ?tffume on the difcovery. From Bonneville we proceeded to Clufe, by a road tolerably good, and highly en- tertaining MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c, 203 tertaining on account of the Angularity and variety of landfcape to be feen from it. The objects change their appearance every moment as you advance, for the path is continually winding, to humour the pofition of the mountains, and to gain an accefs be- tween the rocks, which in fome places hang over it in a very threatening manner. The mountains overlook and prefs fo clofely upon this little town of Clufe, that when I flood in the "principal ftreet, each end of it feemed to be perfectly fhut up ; and wherever any of the houfes had fallen dow T n, the vacancy appeared to the eye, at a mo- derate diftance, to be plugged up in the fame manner by a green mountain. On leaving Clufe, however, we found a well-made road running along the banks of the Arve, and flanked on each fide by very high hills, whofe oppofite fides tally fo ex- fiftly, as to lead one to imagine they have been a©4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND been torn from each other by fome violent convulfion of nature. In other places one fide of this defile is a high perpendicular rock, fo very fmooth that it feems not to have been torn by na- ture, but chifelled by art, from top to bot- tom, while the whole of the fide dire&ly oppofite is of the mod fmiling verdure. The paflage between the mountains gra- dually opens as you advance, and the fcene diverfifies with a fine luxuriancy of wild landfcape^ Before you enter the town of Sallenche, you muft crofs the Arve, which at this fea- fon is much larger than in winter, being fwoln by the diffolving fnows of the Alps. This river has its fource at the Parifh of Argentiere, in the valley of Chamouni, is, imme- MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c, 203 immediately augmented by torrents from the neighbouring Glaciers, and pours its chill turbid ftream into the Rhone, foon after that river iflues from the lake of Geneva. The contraft between thofe two rivers is very ftriking, the one being as pure and limpid as the other is foul and muddy. The Rhone feems to fcorn the alliance, and keeps as long as poffible unmingled with his dirty fpoufe. Two miles below the place of their junction, a difference and oppofition between this ill-forted couple is ftill obfervable ; thefe, however, gra- dually abate by long habit, till at laft, yielding to neceffity, and to thofe un- relenting laws which joined them toge- ther, they mix in perfed union, and flow in a common ftream to the end of their courfe. We 2o6 VIEW OF SOCIETY ANI3 We pafled the night at Sallenche, and the remaining part of our journey not ad-* raitting of chaifes, they were fent back to Geneva, with orders to the drivers, to go round by the other fide of the lake, and meet us at the village of Martigny, in the Pays de Vallais. We agreed with a muleteer at Sallenche, who provided mules to carry us over the mountains to Martigny. It is a good day's journey from Sallenche to Chamouni, not on account of the diftance, but from the difficulty and perplexity of the road, and the fteep afcents and defcents with which you are teafed alternately the whole way. Some of the mountains are covered with pine, oak, beech, and walnut trees. Thefe are interfperfed with apple, plum, cherry, and other fruit trees, fo that we rode a great part of the forenoon in fhade. 3 Befides manners in France, &c 207 Befides the refreshing coolnefs this occa- fioned, it was moft agreeable to me on another account. The road was in fome places fo exceedingly fteep, that I never doubted but fome of us were to fall; I therefore reflected with fatisfa&ion, that thofe trees would probably arreft our courfe, and hinder us from rolling a great way. But many pathlefs craggy mountains re- mained to be traverfed after we had loft the protection of the trees. We then had nothing but the fagacity of our mules to truft to. For my own part, I was very foon convinced that it was much fafer on all dubious occafions to depend on their's than on my own: For as often as I was prefented with a choice of difficulties, and the mule and I were of different opinions, if, becoming more obftinate than he, I in- fifted on his taking my track, I never failed to repent it, and often was obliged to re- turn 308 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND turn to the place where the controverfy hacf begun, and follow the path to which he had pointed at firft. It is entertaining to obferve the prudence of thefe animals in making their way down fueh dangerous rocks. They fometimes put their heads over the edge of the preci- pice, and examine with anxious circum- fpe£tion every poffible way by which they can defcend, and at length are fure to fix on that which upon the whole is the beft* Having obferved this in feveral inftances, I laid the bridle on the neck of my mule, and allowed him to take his own way, without prefuming to controul him in the fmalleft degree. This is doubtlefs the beft method, and what I recommend to all my friends in their journey through life, when they have mules for their companions* MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 209 We refted fome time, during the fultry heat of the day, at a very pleafmgly fituated village called Serve; and afcending thence along the fteepeft and rougheft road we had yet feen, we pafled by a mountain, wherein, they told us, there is a rich vein of copper, but that the proprietors have left orF work- ing it for many years. As we paffed through one little village, I faw many peafants going into a church. • — It was fome Saint's day. The poor people muft have half-ruined themfelves by purchafing gold-leaf. — Every thing was gilded,— The virgin was drefled in a new gown of gold paper; the infant in her arms was equally brilliant, all but the peri- wig on his head, which was milk-white, and had certainly been frefh powdered that very morning. I could fcarcely refrain from fmlling at this ridiculous fight, which the people be- Vol. I. P held aio VIEW OF SOCIETY AND held tvith as much veneration as they cotilcl have fhewn, had the originals been prefent. Upon calling up my eyes to the cieling, 1 faw fomething more extraordinary ftill : This was a portrait of God the Father, fit- ting on a cloud, and drefled like a Pope, with the tiara on his head. Any one muft naturally be fhocked at this, if he be not at the fame inftant moved to laughter at the infinite abfurdity of the idea. About fix in the evening we arrived at the valley of Chamouni, and found lodg- ings in a fmall village called Prieure. The valley of Chamouni is about fix leagues in length, and an Englifh mile in breadth. It is bounded on all fides by very high moun- tains. Between the intervals of thefe mountains, on one fide of the valley, the vaft bodies of fnow and ice, which are call- ed Glaciers, defcend from mount Blanc, which is their fource. On MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. in On one fide of the valley, oppofite to the Glaciers, ftands Breven, a mountain whofe ridge is 5300 Englifh feet higher than the Valley, Many travellers who have more curiofity, and who think lefs of fatigue than we, take their firft view of the Glaciers from the top of mount Breven. As there is only the narrow valley between that and the Glaciers, all of which it overlooks, and every other obje£t around, except Mont Blanc, the view from it muft be very ad- vantageous arid magnificent. We determined to begin with Montaii- vert, from which we could walk to the Glaciers, refer ving Mount Breven for ano- ther day's work, if we (hould find ourfelves fo inclined. After an hour's refrefhmerit at our quarters, Mr. K~ — and I took a walk through the valley. The chapter of Priefts and Canons of Sallenche have the lordlhip of Chamouni, P 8 and 212 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND and draw a revenue from the poor inhabit- ants; the higheft mountains of the Alps, with all their ice and (how, not being fuf- ficient to defend them from rapacity and extortion. The prieft's houfe is beyond comparifon the beft in the whole valley. Looking at it, I afked a young man who flood near me, if the prieft was rich ? Oui, Monfieur, horriblement, — replied he, — et auffi il mange prefque tout notre ble. I then aflced, if the people of Chamouni wifhed to get rid of him ? Oui, bien de celui-ci — mais il faut avoir un autre. I do not fee the abfolute neceflity of that, faid I. Confider, if you had no prieft, you would have more to eat. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 213 The lad flared then anfwered with great naivete — Ah, Monfieur, dans ce pays- ci les pretres font tout auffi neceflaries que le manger. It is plain, that this clergyman inftru&s his parifhioners very carefully in the prin- ciples of religion. 1 perceive, that your foul is in very fafe hands, faid K ~, giv- ing the boy a crown; but here is fomething to enable you to take care of your body. In my next I fhall endeavour to give you fome account of the Glaciers: — At prefent, I muft wifh you good night. p 3 «4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND UTTER XXV. Geneva, **^/ r E began pretty early in the morning to afcend Montanvert, from the top of which, there is eafy accefs to the Gla- cier of that name, and to the valley of ice* Our mules carried us from the inn acrofs the valley, and even for a confiderable way Up the mountain ; which at length became fo exceedingly fleep, that we were obliged to difmouut and fend them back, Mr. U— - only, who had been here before, and was accuflomed to fuch expeditions, con- tinued without compunction on his mule till he got to the top, riding fearlefs over rocks, which a goat or a chamois would have pafTed with caution. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 215 In this laft animal, which is to be found on thefe mountains only, are blended the different qualities of the goat and the deer. It is faid to have more agility than any other quadruped pofleffed of the fame degree of ftrength. After afcending four hours, we gained the fummit of Montanvert. The day was remarkably fine, the objects around noble and majeftic, but in fome refpe£ts different from what I had expe&ed. The valley of Chamouni had difappear- §d: — Mount Breven feemed to have crept wonderfully near; and if I had not juffc croffed the plain which feparates the two mountains, and is a mile in breadth, I fhould have concluded that their bafes were in contact, and that their diftance above was folely owing to the diminution in the fize of all mountains towards the fummit. Judging from the eye alone, I P 4 fhould 2i6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND fhould have thought it poffible to have thrown a ftone from the place where I flood to Mount Breven. There is a chain of mountains behind Montanvert, all covered with fnow, which terminate in four diftinft rocks, of a great height, having the appearance of narrow pyramids or fpires. They are called the Needles; and each has a diftin£t name. — Mont Blanc, furrounded by Mon- tanvert, Mount Breven, the Needles, and other fnowy mountains, appears like a giant among pygmies. The height which we had now attained, was fo far on our way up this mountain. I was therefore equally furprifed and mor- tified to find, after an afcent of three thoufand feet, that Mont Blanc feemed as high here as when we were in the valley. Having MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 417 Having afcended Montanvert from Chamouni, on descending a little on the other fide, we found ourfelves on a plain, whofe appearance has been aptly compared to that which a ftormy fea would have, if it were fuddenly arretted and fixed by 3 ftrong froft. This is called the Valley of Ice. It ftretches feveral leagues behind Montanvert, and is reckoned 2300 feet higher than the valley of Chamouni. From the higheft part of Montanvert we had all the following objects under our eye, fome of which feemed to obftruft the view of others equally interefting; • the Valley of Ice, the Needles, Mont Blanc, with the fnowy mountains below, finely contrafted withBreven, and the green hills on the oppofite fide of Chamouni, and the fun in full fplendor fhowing all of them to the greatefl advantage. — The whole forms a fcene equally fublime and beauti- fyl, far above my power of defcription, and 218 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND and worthy of the eloquence of that very ingenious gentleman, who has fo finely illuftrated thefe fubjects, in a particular treatife, and given fo many examples of both in his parliamentary fpeeches, While we remained in contemplation of this fcene, fome of the company obferved, that from the top of one of the Needles the profpedt would be flill more magnificent, as the eye could ftretch over Breven, be- yond Geneva* all the way to Mount Jura, and comprehend the Pays de Vallais, and many other mountains and vallies. This excited the ambition of the D — • of H — . He fprung up, and made towards the Aiguille du Dru, which is the higheft of the four Needles. Though he bounded over the ice with the elafticity of a young chamois, it was a considerable time before he could arrive at the foot of the Needle 2 fox MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 219 for people are greatly deceived as to dis- tances, in thofe fnowy regions. Should he get near the top, faid Mr. G — — , looking after him with eagernefs, he will fwear we have feen nothing — But I will try to mount as high as he can ; — • I am not fond of feeing people above me. So faying, he fprung after him. In a fhort time we faw them both Scram- bling up the rock: The D had gained a confiderable height, when he was Suddenly flopped by a part of the rock which was perfe&ly impracticable (for his impetuofity had prevented him from choofing the eafieft way) ; fo Mr. G overtook him. Here they had time to breathe and cool a little. The one being determined not to be furpaffed, the other thought the ex- ploit T > .... • 220 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND ploit not worth his while, fince the honour muft be divided. So like two rival powers, who have exhaufted their ftrength by a fruitlefs conteft, they returned, fatigued and difappointed, to the place from which they had fet out. After a very agreeable repaft, on the provifions and wine which our guides had brought from the Prieure, we pafled, by an eafy defcent, from the green part of Mon- tanvert to the Valley of Ice. A walk upon this frozen fea is attended with inconve- niencies. In fome places, the fwellings, which have been compared to waves, are forty or fifty feet high: yet, as they are rough, and the ice intermingled with fnow, one may walk over them. In other parts, thofe waves are of a very moderate fize, and in fome places the furface is quite level. What MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 221 What renders a paflage pver this valley ftill more difficult and dangerous is, the rents in the ice, which are to be met with, whatever direction you follow. Thefe rents are from two to fix feet wide, and of an amazing depth ; reaching from the fur- face of the valley, through a body of ice many hundred fathoms thick. On throw- ing down a ftone, or any other folid fub- fiance, we could hear the hollow murmur of its defcent for a very long time, found- ing like far diftant waves breaking upon rocks. Our guides, emboldened by habit, fkipped over thefe rents without any fign of fear, though they informed us, that they had often feen frefh clefts formed, while they walked on the valley. They added, in- deed, for our encouragement, that this was always preceded by a loud continued noife, which gave warning of what was to hap- pen. It %%% VIEW OF SOCIETY AND It is evident, however, that this warning, though it fhould always precede the rent, could be of little ufe to thofe who had ad- vanced to the middle of the valley ; for they neither could know certainly in what di- rection to run, nor could they have time to get off: and in cafe the ice fhould yawn dire&ly under their feet, they mud inevi- tably perifli. — But probably few accidents of that kind happen ; and this has greater influence, than any reafoning upon the fubje£h It is fuppofed, that the fnow and ice at the bottom melting by the warmth of the earth, leave great vacancies, in the form of vaults. Thefe natural arches fup- port for a long time an amazing weight of ice and fnow ; — for there is a vaft diftance from the bottom to the furface of this valley. But the ice beneath continuing to diflblve, and the fnow above to increafe, thS MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 2^3 the arches muf!: at laft give way, which occafions the noife and rents above men- tioned. Water, alio, which may have fallen from the furface into the clefts, or is lodged by any means in this great mafs of fnow, will, by its fudden expanfion in the a£t of freezing, occafion new rents at the furface* We had heard a great deal of the havoc made by avalanches. Thefe are formed of fnow driven by the winds againft the higheft and mofc protuberant parts of rocks and mountains, where it hardens and ad- heres fometimes till a prodigious mafs is accumulated. But when thefe fupporters are able to fuftain the increafmg weight no longer, the avalanche falls at once, hurry- ing large portions of the loofened rock or mountain along with it ; and rolling from a vaft height, with a thundering noife, to the valley, involves in certain de- ftrudion 224 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND ftru&ion all the trees, houfes, cattle, and men, which lie in its way *. The greater part of thofe who have made a journey to the Glaciers have feen one or more of thefe avalanches in the very ad of falling, and have themfelves always efcaped by miracle. Juft as mod people who have made a fingle voyage by fea, if it were only between Dover and Calais, have met with a ftorm, and very narrowly efcaped Ihipwreck. All that any of our party can boaft is, that during the nights we lay at Chamouni, we frequently heard a noife like diftant thunder, which we were told was occa- sioned by the falling of fome of thefe fame * Ac veluti mentis Saxum de vertice prasceps Cum ruit avulfum vento, feu turbidus imber Proluit, aut annis folvit fublapfa vetullas : Fertur in abruptum magno mons improbus a&u, Exultatque folo, filvas, armenta, virofque Involvens fecum. Virg. 8 avalanches MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 225 avalanches at a few miles diftance. And during our excurfions, we faw trees de- ft royed, and tra&s of foil torn from the fides of the mountains, over which the avalanches were faid to have rolled, two or three years before we pafled. Thefe were the narroweft efcapes we made. - I heartily wifh the fame good luck to all travellers, whatever account they them- felves may choofe to give to their friends* when they return. The Valley of Ice is feveral leagues in length, and not above a quarter of a league in breadth. It divides into branches, which run behind the chain of mountains formerly taken notice of. It appears like a frozen amphitheatre, and is bounded by moun- tains, in whofe clefts columns of cryftal, as we were informed, are to be found. — The hoary majefty of Mont Blanc * * * * * * * I was in danger of rifing into poetry, when recolle&ing the ftory of Icarus, I Vol. I. thought 226 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND thought it beft not to truft to my own waxen wings. — I beg leave rather to bor- row the following lines, which will pleafe you better than any flight of mine, and prevent me from a fall : So Zembla's rocks (the beauteous work of froft) Rife white in air, and glitter o'er the coafl, Pale funs, unfek, at diftance roll away, And on th 9 impaflive ice the lightnings play; Eternal fnows the growing mafs fupply, Fill the bright mountains, prop th' incumbent Iky; As Atlas fix'd, each hoary pile appears, The gather'd winter of a thoufand years. Having walked a confiderable time on the valley, and being fufficiently regaled with ice, we at length thought of return- ing to our cottage at Prieure. Our guides led us down by a fliorter and fteeper way than that by which we had afcended ; and in about two hours after we had begun our defcent, we found ourfelves at the bottom of MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 227 of the mountain. This rapid manner of defcending, moft people find more fevere upon the mufcles of the legs and thighs* than even the afcent. For my own part, I was very near exhaufted ; and as we were ftill a couple of miles diftant from our lodgings, it was with the greateft fatisfac- tion that I faw our obfequious mules in waiting to carry us to our cottage ; where having at laft arrived, and being aflembled in a fmall room, excluded from the view of icy valleys, cryftal hills, and fnowy mountains, with nothing before us but humble objects, as cold meat, coarfe bread, and poor wine, we contrived to pafs an hour before going to bed, in talk- ing over the exploits of the day, and the wonders we had feen. — Whether there is greater pleafure in this, or in viewing the fcenes themfelves, is a queftion not yet de- cided by the cafuifts. 228 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XXVL Geneva, HERE are five or fix different Gla* ciers, which all terminate upon one fide of the Valley of Chamouni, within Thefe are prodigious colle&ions of fnow and ice, formed in the intervals or hollows, between the mountains that bound the fide of the valley near which Mount Blanc ftands. The fnow in thofe hollows being fcreened from the influence of the fun, the heat of fummer can diffolve only a certain portion of it. Thefe magazines of ice and fnow are not formed by what falls diredly from the heavens into the intervals. They are fupplied the fpace of about five leagues. MANNERS IN FRANCE, fcc. 229 fupplied by the fnow which falls during winter on the loftieft parts of Mont Blanc ; large beds or flrata of which Aide down imperceptibly by their own gravity, and finding no refiftance at thefe intervals, they form long irregular roots around all the adjacent mountains. Five of thefe enter, by five different em- bouchures, into the valley of Chamouni, and are called Glaciers ? on one of which we had been. At prefent their furface is from a thou- fand, or two thoufand feet high, above the valley. Their breadth depends on the widenefs of the interval between the mountains in which they are formed. Viewed from the valley, they have, in my opinion, a much finer effed than from their fummit. Q^3 The 2 3 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The rays of the fun linking with va- rious force on the different parts, according as they are more or lefs expofed, occafion an unequal diffolution of the ice; and, with the help of a little imagination, give the • appearances of columns, arches, and tur- rets, which are in fome places tranf- parent. A fabric of ice in this tafte, two thou- fand feet high, and three times as broad, with the fun fhining full upon it, you muft acknowledge to be a very fingular piece of architecture. Our company afcended only the Glacier of Montanvert, which is not the higheft, and were contented with a view of the others from the valley ; but more curious travellers will furely think it worth their labour, to examine each of them more par- ticularlyo Some MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 231 Some people are fo fond of Glaciers, that not fatisfied with their prefent fize, they infift pofitively, that they muft neceffarily grow larger every year, and they argue the matter thus: The prefent exiftence of the Glaciers is a fufficient proof that there has, at fome period or other, been a greater quantity of fnow formed during the winter, than the heat of the fummer has been able to diffolve* But this difproportion muft neceffarily in- creafe every year, and, of confequence, the Glaciers muft augment : becaufe, any given quantity of fnow and ice remaining through the courfe of one fummer, muft increafe the cold of the atmofphere around it in fome degree ; which being reinforced by the fhows of the fucceeding winter, will refill: the diflblving power of the fun more the fecond fummer than the firft, and ftill more the third than the fecond, and fo on, Q^4 The 2 3 2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The conclufion of this reafoning is, that the Glaciers mull grow larger by an in- crealing ratio every year, till the end of time. For this reafon, the authors of this theory regret, that they themfelves have been fern into the world fo foon ; becaufe, if their birth had been delayed for nine or ten thoufand years, they fliould have feea the Glaciers in much greater glory, Mont Blanc being but a Lilliputian at prefent, hi comparifon of what it will be then. However rational this may appear, ob- jections have neverthelefs been fuggeftcd, which I am forry for ; becaufe, when a theory is tolerably confiftent, well fabri- cated, and goodly to behold, nothing can be more vexatious, than to fee a plodding officious fellow overthrow the whole ftruc- ture at once, by a dafli of his pen, as Har- lequin does a houfe with a touch of his fword, in a pantomine entertainment. Such MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c 233 Such cavillers fay, that as the Glaciers augment in fize, there muft he a greater extent of furface for the fun-beams to a£t upon, and, of confequence, the diffolution will be greater, which muft effectually pre- vent the continual increafe contended for. But the other party extricate themfelves from this difficulty by roundly afferting, that the additional cold occafioned by the fnow and ice already depofited, has a much greater influence in retarding their diiTolu- tion, than the increafed furface can have in haftenxng it : and in confirmation of their fyftem, they tell you, that the oldeft inha- bitants of Chamouni remember the Gla- ciers when they were much fmaller than at prefent ; and alfo remember the time when they could walk, from the Valley of Ice, to places behind the mountains, by pafiages which are now quite choked up with hills of fnow, not above fifty years old. Whether 234 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Whether the inhabitants of Chamouni affert this from a laudable partiality to the Glaciers, whom they may now confider (on account of their drawing ftrangers to vifit the Valley) as their beft neighbours ; — or from politenefs to the fupporters of the above-mentioned opinion ; — or from real obfervation, I (hall not prefume to fay. — But I myfelf have heard feveral of the old people in Chamouni affert the fa£L The cavillers being thus obliged to rer linquifh their former obje&ion, attempt, in the next place, to Qmw* that the above theory leads to an abfurdity ; becaufe, fay they, If the Glaciers go on increafing hi bulk ad infinitum, the globe itfelf would become in procefs of time a mere append- age to Mont Blanc. The advocates for the continual aug- mentation of the Glaciers reply, that as this inconvenicncy has not already hap* pened, MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 235 pened, there needs no other refutation of the impious do&rine of certain philofo- phers, who affert that the world has ex- ifted from eternity ; and as to the globe's becoming an appendage to the mountain, they aflure us, that the world will be at an endlong before that event can happen. So that thofe of the moft timid natures, and moft delicate confutations, may difmifs their fears on that fubjedt. For my own part, though I wifh well to the Glaciers, and all the inhabitants of Cha- mouni, having paffed fome days very plea- fantly in their company ; I will take no part in this controverfy, the merits of which J leave to your own judgment, 236 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XXVII. Geneva, ^y^HE morning of the day on which we **■ departed from Prieure, I obferved a girl of a very fingular appearance fitting before the door of one of the houfes. When 1 fpoke to her, fhe made no anfwer : But an elderly man, who had been a foldier in the king of Sardinia's fervice, and my ac- quaintance fmce the moment of our arrival, informed me, that this girl was an ideot, and had been fo from her birth. He took me to two other houfes in the village, in each of which there was one per- fon in the fame melancholy fituation ; and he aflured me, that all over the valley of Chamouni, in a family confiding of five or MANNERS IN FRANCE, & c . 237 fix children, one of them, generally fpeak- ing, was a perfedt natural. This was confirmed by fome others* to whom I afterwards mentioned it. I was told at the fame time, that the parents, fo far from confidering this as a misfortune, looked upon it as an indication of good luck to the reft of the family, and no un- happinefs to the individual, whom they always cherifh and protect with the utmoft tendernefs. I afked my foldier, if any of his own family were in that fituation ? Non, Mon- fieur, anfwered he; etaulfijai pafle une vie bien dure. Don't you think thefe poor creatures very unhappy ? Demande pardon, Monfieur: — lis font tres heureux 3 But *38 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND But you would not like to have been, bora in that ftate yourfelf ? Vous croyez done, Monfieur, que j'aurois ete bien attrape ? Attrape ! — certainly : — don't you think fo too ? Pour cela, non, Monfieur ; je n'aurois jamais travaille.- To one who has through life been ob- liged to work hard for a bare fubfiftence, labour appears the greateft evil, and perfed idlenefs the greateft bleffing. If this foldier had been brought up in idlenefs, and had experienced all the horrors and deje&ion which attend indolent luxury, very poffibly he would be of a different opinion. During this journey, I remarked, that in fome particular villages, and for a confi- derable trad of country, fcarcely was there S any MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 239 any body to be feen who had that fwelling of the throat and neck, which is thought fb general among all the inhabitants of the Alps. In particular, I did not obferve any body at Prieure with this complaint; and, upon enquiry, was informed, that there are many parifhes in w 7 hich not a fingle perfon is troubled with it, and that in other places at no great diftance it is almoft univerfal. In the valley of Chamouni there is only one hamlet where it is common; but in the Pays de Vallais, I was told, it is more frequent than in any other place. As this difeafe feems to be endemicaf, it cannot, as has been imagined, proceed from, the drinking of water impregnated with fnow or ice ; for this beverage is common to all the inhabitants of the Alps, and of other mountains. If 240 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND If the water be in reality the vehicle of this difeafe, we muft fuppofe it impregnated not only with diflblved ice and fnow, but alfo with fome fait, or other fubftance, pof- fefled of the noxious quality of obftrufting the glands of the throat ; and we muft alfo fuppofe, that this noxious fubftance is to be found in no other inhabited place but the Alps. After one of the inhabitants of Cha- mouni had enumerated many parifhes where there were, and others where there were no Goitres (which is the name they give this fwelling), he concluded by telling me, I Ihould fee them in great abundance among the Valaifans, to whofe country we were going. — When I told the man, I thought his country-people very happy, in being quite free from fuch an odious difeafe, which affii&ed their poor neighbours En revanche, faid the peafant, nous fommes accables MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 241 accables des impots; — et dans le pays de Vallais on ne paye rien. The d 1 is in the fellow, exclaimed L— Were it in your choice, would you ac- cept of Goitres, to get free of taxes ? Tres volontiers, Monfieur; — lun vaut bien Pautre. Quid caufae eft, merito quin illis Jupiter ambas, Xratas buccas inflet. You fee, my friend, that it is not in courts and capitals alone that men are dis- contented with their fortunes. The caufes of repining are different in different places j but the effect is the fame every where. On the morning of the fixth day, we bid adieu to Prieure ; and having afcended the mountains, which (hut up the valley of Chamouni at the end oppofite to that by Vol. I. R which 24 2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND which we had entered, after various wind- ings on a very rugged road, we gradually defcended into a hollow of the moft difmal appearance. It is furrounded with high, bare, rugged rocks, without trees or verdure of any kind, the bottom being as barren and craggy as the fides, and the whole forming a moft hideous landfcape. This dreary valley is of a confiderable length, but very narrow. I imagine it would have pleafed the fancy of Salvator, who might have been tempted to fteal a corner of it for one of his pieces, which, when he had enlivened with a mur- der or two, would have been a mafter-piece of the Horrible. Having traverfed this, we continued our journey, fometimes afcending, then de- fending into other vallies whofe names I have forgot. — We had a long continued afcent over Mount Noir, a very high hill, covered MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 243 covered with pine-trees, many of which are above a hundred feet in height. I was obliged to walk on foot mod of this road, which is full as fteep as any part of that by which we had afcenced Montanvert. We came at length to the pafs which feparates the King of Sardinia's country from the little republic, called the Pays de Vallais. Acrofs this there is an old thick wall, and a gate, without any guard. This narrow pafs continues for feveral miles.— A few peafants arranged along the upper part of the mountains could, by rolling down ftones, deftroy a whole army, if it fhould attempt to enter into the country by this road. When you have patted through this long defile, the road runs along the fide of a high and fteep mountain j but is ftill fo very narrow, that two perfons cannot with fafety go abreaft, and all paflengers are en- R 2 tirely 24+ VIEW OF SOCIETY AND tirely at the mercy of thofe who may be polled on the higher parts of the mountain. From the fide of the mountain on which we pafied, we could have fpoken to the people who inhabited the fide of the moun- tain oppofite. But I am convinced it would have taken three or four hours walking, to have gone to them : Becaufe we mull, by a long, oblique tour, have firft reached the bottom of the cleft between us, and then have afcended to them, by another long, fa- tiguing path, which could not be done in lefs time than I have mentioned. Wherever there is a fpot of the mountain tolerably fertile, and the flope lefs formi- dable than ufual, you are almoft certain to find a peafant's houfe. All the houfes are built of the fine red pine, which grows near at hand. The carriage of this, even for a fhort way, upon thofe very fteep mountains, muft have been attended with i no MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 245 no fmall difficulty and danger. Thefe dwellings are raifed on wooden props, or pillars, two or three feet above the ground. On the top of each pillar a large flag or broad ftone is placed, to obftrud; the en- trance of rats.— Indeed the fituation of thefe abodes is fo very aerial, that they feem al- moft inacceffible to every animal that ha§ not wings, as well as to rats. The road led us at length to the fummit, which is level, and covered with pines for feveral miles. Having traverfed this, and defcended a little on the other fide, the lower Vallais opened to our view. Nor- thing can be imagined more Angularly pic- turefque : — It is of an oval form, about feven leagues in length, and one in breadth* furrounded on all fides by mountains of a ftupendous height, the lower parts of which are covered with very rich pafture. — The valley itfelf is fertile in the higheft degree, finely cultivated, and divided into meadows, R 3 gardens, 24 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND gardens, and vineyards. The Rhone flows in beautiful mazes from the one end to the other.— Sion, the capital of the Vallais, is fituated on the upper extremity, and the town of Martigny on the lower, many vil- lages and detached houfes appearing all over the valley between them. The pro- fpe£t we had now under our eye formed a ftriking and agreeable contraft with the fcenes we had juft left. The diftance from this point to Martigny, which ftands near the bottom of the mountain, is about fix miles. There is one continued defcent the whole way, which is rendered eafy by the roads being thrown into a zig-zag dire&ion. After the rugged paths we had been ac- cuftomed to, it was, comparatively fpeak- ing, reft, to walk down this mountain. — • We arrived at Martigny refrefhed, and in high fpirits. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 247 LETTER XXVIII. Geneva. T\U RING our journey over the moun- tains which encircle the lower Vallais, 1 had often felt an inclination to enter fome of the peafants' houfes, that I might be a witnefs of the domeftic oeconomy of a peo- ple which RouiTeau has fo delightfully de- fer ibed. Had I been alone, or with a fingle com- panion, I fhQuld have pledged them libe- rally, and made a temporary facrifice of my reafon to the Penates of thofe happy moun- taineers ; for, according to him, this is the only payment they will receive for their entertainment : But our company was by R 4 far 248 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND far too numerous, and would have put their hofpitality to too fevere a trial. After a night's refreshment at Martignyy we looked with fome degree of impatience for the cabriolets, which had been ordered to meet us there. We all talked with rap- ture of the fublime fcenes from which we had defcended ; yet nobody regretted that the reft of the journey was to be performed on plain ground. The cabriolets arriving the fame forenoon, we fet out by the etn- bouchure, which leads to St. Maurice, That immenfe rampart of mountains which furrounds the Vallais at every other part, is cut through here, which renders that country acceffible to the inhabitants of • the canton of Bern. This opening has the appearance of a vaft and magnifi- cent avenue, on each fide of which a fp\y of lofty mountains are placed, in- ftea$ MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c, 249 ftead of trees. It is fome leagues in length. The ground is exceedingly fertile, and per- fectly level : Yet if an attack were fufpe<3> ed, this pafs could be eafily defended by batteries at the bottom of the mountains on each fide. Befides, a river of confides able depth flows along, fometimes on the one fide, and fometimes on the other, and, by continually crofling the plain, feems to forbid 9,11 hoftile incroachments, This little fpot, the country of the Val- laifans, which comprehends the valley above defcribed, the mountains that furround it, and ftretch on one fide all the way to the lake, including three or four towns and many villages, is a diftrifr, governed by its own laws and magiftrates, in alliance with, but independent of, the Swifs cantons, or * any other power. The religion is popery, and the form of government democratic- It feems to have been imagined by Nature $s a laft afylum for that divinity, without whofe 2 5 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND whofe influence all her other gifts are of fmall value. Should the rapacious hand of defpotifm ever crufh the rights of man- kind, and overturn the altars of freedom, in every other country in Europe, a chofen people may here preferve the true worfhip, and lhare her regard with the provinces beyond the Atlantic. In the middle of the opening above men- tioned, about four leagues from Martigny, between two high mountains, and at the fide of the Rhone, is fituated the little town of St. Maurice, which guards this entrance into the lower Vallais. Having paffed a bridge at this town, which divides the country of the Vallaifans from the canton of Bern, we proceeded to Bex, a village remarkable for its delight- ful fituation, and for the falt-works which are near it. After dinner, we vifited thefe. We entered the largeft faline by a paflage 6 cut MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 251 cut out of the folid rock, of a fufficient height and breadth to allow a man to walk with eafe. Travellers who have the curiofity to ex- plore thefe gloomy abodes, are previoufly furnifhed with lighted lamps or torches, and dreffed in a coarfe habit, to defend them from the flimy drippings which fail from the roof and fides of the paffage. Upon arriving at the refervoir of fait water, which is about three quarters of a mile from the entrance, I was feized with a naufea, from the difagreeable fmell of the place, and returned with all polfible expe- dition to the open air, leaving my compa- nions to pufh their refearches as far as they pleafed. They remained a confiderable time after me. What fatisfa&ion they re- ceived within, I (hall not take upon me to determine ; but I never faw a fet of people make a more melancholy exit ; — with their 2 5 2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND their greafy frocks, their torches, their fmoky, woe-begone countenances, they put me in mind of a procefTion of con- demned heretics, walking to the flames, at an Auto de Fe at Lifbon, Having recovered their looks and fpirits at the inn at Bex, they aflured me, that the curiofities they had feen during their fub- terraneous progrefs, particularly after my feceflion, were more worthy of obfervation than any thing we had met with fince we had left Geneva ; and they all advifed me, with afFe&ed ferioufnefs, to return and com- plete the interefting vifit which I had left unfinifhed. Next morning our company divided, the J> — of H and Mr. G chufing to return by Vevay and Laufanne. Mr U — , Mr. K— , and myfelf, went by the other fide of the lake of Geneva. They took with them the two chaifes, and we pro- ceeded MANNERS IN FRANCE, kc. 253 ceeded on horfeback, our road not admit- ting of wheel-carriages. We left Bex early in the morning, pac- ing through Aigle, a thriving little town, whofe houfes are built of a white marble found in the neighbourhood. — The ideas of gloom and wretchednefs, as well as of magnificence, had fomehow been linked in my mind with this fubftance.— I don't know whether this is owing to its being ufed in tombs and monuments ; — or to my having obferved, that the houfes mod profufely ornamented by it arefo often the manfions of dulnefs and difcontent. — Whatever gave rife to this conne&ion of ideas, the appearance of the inhabit- ants of Aigle was well calculated to cure me of the prejudice ; for although the mean eft houfes in this poor little town are built of marble, yet in the courfe of my life I never beheld lefs care and more fails- faCtion in the countenances of any fet of people. 254 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND people. An appearance of eafe and con* tent prevails not only here, but all over Switzerland. A little beyond Aigle, we crofled the Rhone in boats. It is broader at this ferry, than where it flows from the lake of Ge- neva. As foon as we arrived on the other fide, w r e were again in the dominions of the Vallaifans, which extend on this fide all the way to the lake* We had a delightful ride to St. Gingo, where we dined, and remained feveral hours to refrefh our horfes. Though it was Sunday, there was a fair at this town, to which fuch a concourfe of people had reforted from the Pays de Vallais, the canton of Bern, and from Savoy, that we could not without difficulty find a room to dine in. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 255 The drefs of the young Vallaifannes is remarkably pi&urefque. A little filk hat, fixed on one fide of the head, from which a bunch of ribbons hangs negligently, with a jacket very advantageous to the fhape, gives them a fmart air, and is upon the whole more becoming than the drefs of the common people in any country I have yet feen. A little beyond St. Gingo, we entered the dukedom of Savoy. The road is here cut out of the lofty rocks which rife from the lake of Geneva. It muft be paffed with caution, being exceedingly narrow, and no fence to prevent the traveller from falling over a very high precipice into the lake, in cafe his horfe (hould ftart to one fide. At fome places this narrow road is ren- dered ftill more dangerous by fragments which have fallen from the mountains above, and have impaired and almoft de- flroyed 2S 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND ftroyed the path. At thofe places we were obliged to difmount, and lead our horfes, with great attention, over rubbifli and broken rocks, till we gained thofe parts of the road which were intire. The fight of Meillerie brought to my remembrance the charming letters of Rouf- feau*s two lovers. This recollection filled me with a pleafing enthufiafm. I fought tvith my eyes, and imagined I difcovered the identical place where St. Preux fat with his telefcope to view the habitation of his beloved Julia. — I traced in my imagination his route, when he fprung from rock to rock after one of her letters, which a fud- den guft of wind had fnatched from his hands. — I marked the point at which the two lovers embarked to return to Clarence, after an evening vifit to thofe very rocks,— « when St. Preux, agonized with tender re- colledions, and diftra&ed with defpair, was tempted to feize his miftrefs, then the wife of MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 257 of another, and precipitate himfelf along with her, from the boat headlong into the middle of the lake. Every circumftarice of that pathetic ftory Came frefli into my mind. I felt myfelf on a kind of claffic ground, and experienced that the eloquence of that inimitable writer had given me an intereft in the landfcape before my eyes, beyond that which its own natural beauties could have effe&ed. Having left the romantic rocks of Meil~ lerie behind, we defcended to a fertile plain, almoft on a level with the lake^ along which the road runs, flanked with rows of fine tall trees all the way to Evian, an agreeable little town, renowned for its mineral waters. Here we met with many of our Geneva acquaintances of both fexes, who had come, under pretence of drinking the waters, to amufe themfelves in this de- lightful retreat. Vol, T» S • We 258 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND We next proceeded to Tonon, a moft re- ligious city, if we may judge by the num- ber of churches and monafteries which it contains. The number of inhabitants are calculated at fix or feven thoufand, and every feventh perfon I faw wore the uni- form of fome religious order. After this, I was not greatly furprifed to perceive every fymptom of poverty among the lay inhabitant s. Having befpoke fupper and beds at this place, we went and vifited the convent of Carthufians at Ripaille, which is at a little diftance. It was here that a Duke of Savoy, after a fortunate reign, a (Fumed the charader of a hermit, and lived with the fathers a life of piety and mortification, according to fome; of voluptuoufnefs and policy, ac- cording to others. What we are well af- fured of is, that he was in a fhort time eleded v MANNERS IN FRANCE, kc. 259 ele&ed Pope, by the council of Bafil, which dignity he was obliged to relinquifh nine years after, having firft made very honour- able conditions for himfelf. After this, he fpent the remainder of his life with the re* putation of great fan&ity at Ripaille. Had he been allowed to chufe any part of Europe for his retreat, he could not have found one more agreeable than this which his own dominions furnifhed. The fathers with great politenefs (howed us their foreft, their gardens, their apart- ments, and a very elegant new chapel, which is juft finifhed. They then conducted us into the chamber where their Sovereign had lived and died. They talked much of his genius, his benevolence, and his fan&ity. We heard them with every mark of acqui- efcence, and returned to our inn, where tho' Show all his paces, not a ftep advance. This, I hope, will fatisfy you for the prefent i in my next, I fhall fend you what farther particulars I think worth your no- tice concerning this fingular man,— Mean while, I am, &c. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 273 LETTER XXX. Onfidered as a matter, Voltaire appears V_>4 in a very amiable light. He is affable, humane, and generous to his tenants and dependants. He loves to fee them profper j and takes part in their private and domeftic concerns, with the attention of a patri- arch. — He promotes induftry and manufac- tures among them, by every means he can devife : by his care and patronage alone* Ferney, from a wretched village, whole inhabitants were funk in floth and poverty, is become a flourifhing and commodious little town. That acrimony, which appears in fome of Voltaire's works, feems to be excited only againft rival wits, and contemporary Vol. I. T writers* Geneva. 274 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND writers, who refufe him that diftinguiflied place on Parnaffus, to which his talents en- title him. If he has been the author of fevere fatire, he has alfo been the object of a great deaL Who has been the aggreflbr, it would be difficult to determine ; but it muft be con- feffed, that where he has not been irritated as a writer, he appears a good-humoured man ; and, in particular inftances, difplays a true philanthropy. The whole of his condudt refpe&ing the Calas family ; — his protection of the Sirvens, his patronage of the young lady defcended from Cor- neille, and many examples, which might be mentioned, are all of this nature. Some people will tell you, that all the buftle he made, on thefe, and fimilar oc- cafions, proceeded from vanity ; but in my mind, the man who takes pains to juftify opprefled innocence, to roufe the indigna- tion MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 275 tion of mankind againft cruelty, and to re- lieve indigent merit, is in reality benevo- lent, however vain he may be of fuch actions. Such a man is unqueftionably a more ufeful member of fociety, than the humbled monk, who has no other plan in life, than the working out his own falvation in a corner. Voltaire's criticlfms on the writings of Shakefpear do him no honour; they be- tray an ignorance of the author, whofe works he fo rafhly condemns. Shakefpear's irregularities, and his difregard for the uni- ties of the drama, are obvious to the dulleft of modern critics; but Voltaire's national prejudices, and his imperfect knowledge of the language, render him blind to fome of the moft fhining beauties of the Englifh Poet ; his remarks, however, , though not always candid nor delicate, are for the moft part lively. T 2 One a 7 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND One evening, at Ferney, the converfa* tion happening to turn on the genius of Shakefpear, Voltaire expatiated on the impropriety and abfurdity of introducing low characters and vulgar dialogue into Tragedy ; and gave many inftances of the Englifh bard's having offended in that par- ticular, even in his mod pathetic plays. A gentleman of the company, who is a great admirer of Shakefpear, obferved, by way of palliation, that though thofe charac- ters were low, yet they were natural (dans la nature, was his expreffion). Avec per- miffion, Monfieur, replied Voltaire, mon cul eft bien dans la nature, et cependant je porte des coulottes. Voltaire had formerly a little theatre at his own houfe, where dramatic pieces were reprefented by fome of the fociety who vifited there, he himfelf generally taking fome important charader ; but by all ac- counts this was not his fort, nature having fitted MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 277 fitted him for conceiving the fentiments, but not reprefenting the a&ions of a hero. Mr. Cramer of Geneva fometimes affifted upon thefe occafions. 1 have often feen that gentleman a£t at a private theatre in that city with deferved applaufe. Very few of thofe who have made a£ting the ftudy and bufinefs of their lives, could have reprefented the characters in which he appeared, with more judgment and energy. The celebrated Clairon herfelf has been proud to tread Voltaire's domeftic theatre, and to difplay at once his genius and her own. Thefe dramatic entertainments at Fer- ney, to which many of the inhabitants of Geneva were, from time to time, invited, in all probability increafed their defire for fuch amufements, and gave the hint to a T 3 company 2 7 S VIEW OF SOCIETY AND company of French comedians* to come every fummer to the neighbourhood. As the Syndics and Council did not judge it proper to licenfe their a&ing, this company have ere&ed a theatre at Chate- laine, which is on the French fide of the ideal line which feparates that kingdom from the territories of the Republic, and about three miles from the ramparts of Geneva* People come occasionally from Savoy and Switzerland to attend thefe reprefenta- tions ; but the company on w r hich the a&ors chiefly depend, are the citizens of Geneva. The play begins at three or four in the afternoon, that the fpe&ators may have time to return before the Abutting of the gates. I have been frequently at this theatre. The performers are moderately good. The admired Le Kain, who is now at Fer- Siey, on a vifit to Voltaire, fometimes ex- hibits ; MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 279 hibits :— but when I go, my chief induce- ment is to fee Voltaire, who generally attends when Le Kain ads, and when one of his own tragedies is to be repre- fented. He fits on the ftage, and behind the fcenes ; but fo as to be feen by a great part of the audience. He takes as much in- tereft in the reprefentation, as if his own character depended on the performance. He feems perfectly chagrined and difgufted when any of the a£tors commit a miftake ; and w T hen he thinks they perform well, never fails to mark his approbation with all the violence of voice and gefture. He enters into the feigned diftrefles of the piece with every fymptom of real emotion, and even fheds tears with the profufion of a girl prefent for the firft time at a tragedy. T 4 I have 2 8o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I have fometimes fat near him during the whole entertainment, obferving with aftonifhment fuch a degree of fenfibility in a man of eighty. This great age, one would naturally believe, might have con- fiderably blunted every fenfation, particu- larly thofe occafioned by the fidtitious dif- treffes of the drama, to which he has been, habituated from his youth. The pieces reprefented having been written by himfelf, is another circumftance which, in my opinion, fliould naturally tend to prevent their effect on him. Some people indeed affert that this, fo far from diminifhing, is the real caufe of all his fenfibility ; and they urge, as a proof of this affertion that he attends the theatre only when fome of his own pieces are to be a&ed. That he fhould be better pleafed to fee his own tragedies reprefented than any 7 others. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 281 others, is natural ; but I do not readily com- prehend, how he can be more eafily moved and deceived, by diftrefles which he him- felf invented* Yet this degree of decep- tion feems neceflary to make a man fhed tears. While thefe tears are flowing, he mull believe the woes he weeps are real : he mu ft have been fo far deceived by the cunning of the fcene, as to have forgot that he was in a playhoufe. The moment he recolle&s that the whole is fiction, his fym- pathy and tears muft ceafe. I fhould be glad, however, to fee Vol- taire prefent at the reprefentation of fome of Corneille or Racine's tragedies, that I might obferve whether he would difcover more or lefs fenfibility than he has done at his own. We fliould then be able to afcertain this curious, difputed point, whe- ther his fytnpathy regarded the piece or the author. Happy, 2 8z VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Happy, if this extraordinary man had confined his genius to its native home, to the walks which the mufes love, and where he has always been received with diftin- guifhed honour, and that he had never de- viated from thefe, into the thorny paths of controversy ! For while he attacked the ty- rants and oppreflbrs of mankind, and thofe who have perverted the benevolent nature of Chriftianity to the mofl: felfifh and ma- lignant purpofes, it is for ever to be regret- ted, that he allowed the fhafts of his ridi- cule to glance upon the Chriftian religion itfelf. By perfevering in this, he has not only fhocked the pious, but even difgufted infi- dels, who accufe him of borrowing from himfelf, and repeating the fame argument in various publications ; and feem as tired of the ftale fneer againft the Chriftian doc- trines, as of the dulleft and moft tedious fermons in fupport of them. 3 Voltaire's MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 283 Voltaire's behaviour during ficknefs has been reprefented in very oppofite lights. I have heard much of his great contrition and repentance, when he had reafon to be- lieve his end approaching, Thefe ftories, had they been true, would have proved, that his infidelity was affectation, and that Jie was a believer and Chriftian in his heart. I own I could never give any credit to fuch reports ; for though I have frequently met with vain young men, who have given themfelves airs of free-thinking, while in reality they were even fuperftitious, yet I never could underftand what a man like Voltaire, or any man of common under- standing, could propofe to himfelf by fuch abfurd affe&ation. To pretend to defpife what we really revere, and to treat as hu- man, what we believe to be divine, is cer- tainly, of all kinds of hypocrify, the moft pnpardonable* 1 was 284 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I was at fome pains to afcertain this mat- ter ; and I have been affured, by thofe who have lived during many years in familiarity with him, that all thefe ftories are without foundation. They declared, that although he was unwilling to quit the enjoyment of life, and ufed the means of preferving health, he feemed no way afraid of the confequences of dying. That he never dis- covered, either in health or ficknefs, any remorfe for the works imputed to him againft the Chriftian religion. That, on the contrary, he was blinded to fuch a de- gree, as to exprefs uneafinefs at the thoughts of dying before fome of them, in which he was at that time engaged, were finifhed. Though this conduct is not to be juftified upon any fuppofition, yet there is more con- liftency, and, in my opinion, lefs wicked- nefs in it, if we admit the account which his friends give, than there would be in his writing at once againft the eftabliflhed opi- nions MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 2$$ nions of mankind, the convi&ion of his own confcience, and the infpirations of the Deity, merely to acquire the applaufe of a few miftaken infidels. However erroneous he may have been, I cannot fufpedt him of fuch abfurdity. On the contrary, I imagine, that as foon as he is convinced of the truths of Christianity, he will openly avow his opinion, in health as in ficknefs, uniformly, to his laft mo- ment. 286 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND L ETTER XXXI. Geneva, J N obedience to your requeft, I fhall give you my opinion freely with regard to Lord — ~-'s fcheme of fending his two fons to be educated at Geneva* The eldeft, if I remember right, is not more than nine years of age ; and they have advanced no farther in their education than being able to read Eng^lifh tolerably well. His Lordftiip's idea is, that when they fhall have acquired a perfect knowledge of the French language, they may be taught Latin through the medium of that language, and purfue any other ftudy that may be thought proper. I have MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 287 I have attended to his Lordfhip's objec- tions againft the public fchools in England, and after due confideration, and weighing every circumftance, I remain of opinion, that no country but Great Britain is proper for the education of a Britifh fubjeft, who propofes to pafs his life in his own country. The mod important point, in my mind, to be fecured in the education of a young man of rank of our country, is to make him an Englifhman; and this can be done no- where fo effe&ually as in England. He will there acquire thofe fentiments, that particular tafte and turn of mind, which will make him prefer the govern- ment, and relifii the manners, the diver- fions, and general way of living, which prevail in England. He will there acquire that charader, which diftinguifhes Englifhmen from the natives of all the other countries of Europe, and 288 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND and which once attained, however it may be afterwards embellifhed or deformed, can never be entirely effaced. If it could be proved, that this chara&er is not the moft amiable, it does not follow that it is not the moft expedient. It is fufficient, that it is upon the whole moft approved of in England. For I hold it as indifputable, that the good opinion of a man's countrymen is of more importance to him than that of all the reft of man- kind : Indeed, without the firft, he very rarely can enjoy the fecond. It is thought, that, by an early foreign education, all ridiculous Englifh prejudices will be avoided. This may be true; — but other prejudices, perhaps as ridiculous, and much more detrimental, will be formed. The firft cannot be attended with many in- conveniencies ; the fecond may render the young people unhappy in their ov/n coun- try MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sc. 289 try when they return, and difagreeable to their countrymen all the reft of their lives* It is true, that the French manners are adopted in almoft every country of Europe : they prevail all over Germany and the northern courts. They are gaining ground, though with a flower pace, in Spain, and in the Italian ftates.— This is not the cafe in England.-*- The Englifh manners are uni- verfal in the provinces, prevail in the capi- tal, and are to be found uncontaminated even at court. In all the countries above mentioned, the body of the people behold this preference to foreign manners with difguft. But in all thofe countries, the fentiments of the people are difregarded ; whereas, in Eng- land, popularity is of real importance; and the higher a man's rank is^ the more he will feel the lofs of it. Vol, I. U Befides, i 9 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Befides, a prejudice agalnft French man* ners is not confined to the lower ranks in England: — It is diffufed over the whole nation. Even thofe who have none of the ufual prejudices; — who do all manner of juftice to the talents and ingenuity of their neighbours ; — who approve of French man- ners in French people; yet cannot fuffer them when grafted on their countrymen* Should an Englifh gentleman think this kind of grafting at all admiflible, it will be in fome of the lowed clafles with whom he is connected, as his tailor, barber, valet- de-chambre, or cook;— but never in his friend* I can fcarcely remember an inftance of an Englilhman of fafhion, who has evinced in his drefs or ftyle of living a preference to French manners, who did not lofe by it in the opinion of his countrymen. What I have faid of French manners is applicable to foreign manners in genera!, which MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 291 -which are all in fome degree French, and the particular differences are not diftin- guifhed by the Englifli. The fentiments of the citizens of Geneva are more analogous in many refpe&s to the turn of thinking in England, than to the general opinions in France. Yet a Gene- vois in London will univerfally pafs for a Frenchman. An Englifli boy, fent to Geneva at an early period of life, and remaining there fix or feven years, if his parents be not along with him, will probably, in the eyes of the Englifli, appear a kind of French- man ail his life after. This is an inconve- nience which ought to be avoided with the greateft attention. With regard to the objections againft public fchools, they are in many refpeds applicable to thofe of every country. But I freely own, they never appeared to me U 2 ' fufficient 292 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND fufficient to overbalance the advantages which attend that method of education ; particularly as it is condu&ed in Englifh public fchools. I have perceived a certain hardihood and maniinefs of character in boys who have had a public education, fuperior to what appears in thofe of the fame age educated privately. At a public fchool, though a general at- tention is paid to the whole, in many par- ticulars each boy is neceffitated to decide and ad for himfelf. His reputation among his companions depends folely on his own condudh This gradually ftrengthens the mind, infpires firmnefs and decifion, and prevents that wavering imbecility obfervable in thofe who have been long accuftomed to rely upon the affiftance and opinion of others. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c< 293 The original impreffions which fink into the heart and mind, and form the charac- ter, never change. — The objects of our at- tention vary in the different periods of life. —This is fometimes miftaken for a change of chara&er, which in reality remains ef- fentially the fame. — He who is referved, deceitful, cruel, or avaricious, when a boy, will not, in any future period of life, be- come open, faithful, companionate, or generous. The young mind has, at a public fchool, the beft chance of receiving thofe fcntU ments which incline the heart to friend- ihip, and correct felfifhnefs. They are drawn in by obfervation, which is infinitely more powerful than precept. A boy perceives, that courage, genero- fity, gratitude, command the efteem and applaufe of all his companions. He che- rifhes thefe qualities in his own breafl, and endeavours to conned: himfelf in friendfhip U 3 with 294 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND with thofe who poflefs them.— He fees that meannefs of fpirit, ingratitude, and per- fidy, are the objects of deteftation. — He fhuns the boys who difplay any indications of thefe odious qualities. What is the ob- ject of applaufe or contempt to his fchool- f el lows, he will endeavour to graft into, or eradicate from, his own charadter, with ten thoufand times more eagernefs than that which was applauded and cenfured by his tutor or parents. The admonitions of thefe laft have pro- bably loft their e£Fe£t by frequent repeti- tion; or he may imagine their maxims are only applicable to a former age> and to manners which are obfolete* — But he feel§ the fentiments of his companions afFe£t his reputation and fame in the moft fenfible manner. In all the countries of Europe, England excepted, fuch a deference is paid to boy§ pf rank at the public fchools, that emula- tion| MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 295 tion, the chief fpur to diligence, is greatly blunted. — The boys in the middle rank of life are depreffed by the infolence of their titled companions, which they are not al- lowed to correct or retaliate. This has the worft effed on the minds of both, by rendering thefe more infolent, and thofe more abje£t. The public fchools in England difdaia this mean partiality ; and are, on that ac- count, peculiarly ufeful to boys of high rank and great fortune. Thefe young people are exceedingly apt to imbibe falfe ideas of their own importance, which in thofe im- partial feminaries will be perfectly afcer- tained, and the real merit of the youths weighed in jufter fcales than are generally to be found in a parent's houfe. The young peer will be taught by the mafters, and ftill more effe&ually by his pomrades, this mod ufeful of all leffbns,~ V 4 to t 9 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND to expert diftin&ion and efteem from per-* fonal qualities only; becaufe no other can make him eftimable, or even fave him from contempt. He will fee a dunce of high rank flogged with as little ceremony as the fon of a tailor; and the richeft coward kicked about by his companions equally with the pooreft poltroon. — He will find that diligence, genius, and fpirit, are the true fources of fuperiority $nd applaufe, both within and without the fchoo}. The active principle of emulation, when allowed full play, as in the chief fchools in England, operates in various ways, and al- ways with a good efFedt. If a boy finds that he falls beneath his companions in literary merit, he will endeavour to excel them in intrepidity, or fome other accom- pliOiment. If he be brought to difgrace for negleding his exercife, he will try to fave himfelf from contempt by the firmnefs fvith which he bears his punifhment. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, & c . 297 The liftleffnefs and indolence to be found fo frequently among our young people of rank, are not to be imputed to their educa- tion at a public fchool, which in reality has the greateft tendency to counteract thefe habits, and often does fo, and gives an energy to the mind which remains through Jife. Thofe wretched qualities creep on after- wards, wheji the youths become their own matters, and have enfeebled their minds by indulging in all the pleafures which fortune puts in their power, and luxury prefents. Upon the whole, I am clearly of opinion, that the earlieft period of every Englifh- man's education, during which the mind receives the moft lafting impreffions, ought to be in England, If, however, the opinion of relations, or giny peculiarity in fituation, prevents his being 298 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND being educated at home, Geneva fhould be preferred to any other place. Or if, by fome negled, either of his own or his parents, a young Englifh gentleman of for- tune has allowed the firft years of youth to fiy unimproved, and has attained the age of feventeen or eighteen with little literary knowledge, I know no place where he may have a better chance of recovering what he has loft than in this city. He may have a choice of men of eminence, in every branch of literature, to affift him in his ftudies, a great proportion of whom are men of ge- nius, and as amiable in their manners as they are eminent in their particular pro- feffions. He will have conftant opportunities of being in company with very ingenious people, whofe thoughts and converfation turn upon literary fubje&s, In fuch fo- ciety, a young man will feel the neceffity of fome degree of ftudy. This will gradually form MANNERS IN FRANCE, kc. 299 form a tafte for knowledge, which may re- main through life. It may alfo be numbered among the ad- vantages of this place, that there are few obje&s of diffipation, and hardly any fources of amufement, befides thofe derived from the natural beauties of the country, and from an intimacy with a people by whofe converfation a young man can fcairce fail to improve. P. S. An Englifh nobleman and his lady having taken the refolution of educating their fon at Geneva, attended him hither, and have effedually prevented the incon- veniencies above mentioned, by remaining with him for feven or eight years. The hofpitality, generofity, and benevo- lent difpofitions of this family had acquired them the higheft degree of popularity. I faw them leave the place. Their carriage could with difficulty move through the multitude^ 3 oo VIEW OF SOCIETY AND multitude, who were affembled in the ftreets. Numbers of the poorer fort, who had been relieved by their fecret cha- rity, unable longer to obey the injun&ions of their benefactors, proclaimed their gra- titude aloud. The young gentleman was obliged to come out again and again to his old friends and companions, who prefTed around the coach to bid him farewel, and exprefs their forrow for his departure, and their wifhes for his profperity. The eyes of the parents overflowed with tears of happinefs ; and the whole family carried along with them the affe&ions of the greater part, and the efteeoa of all the citizens. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. LETTER XXXIL Geneva, SU I C I D E is very frequent at Geneva. I am told this has been the cafe ever fince the oldeft people in the republic can re-> member; and there is reafon to believe* that it happens oftener here, in proportion to the number of inhabitants, than in Eng- land, or any other country of Europe. The multiplicity of inftances which has occurred fince I have been here is aftonifti- ing. Two that have .happened very lately are remarkable for the peculiar circum- fiances which accompanied them* The firft was occafioned by a fudden and unaccountable fit of defpair, which feized the fon of one of the wealthieft and mo ft refocdable $oi VIEW OF SOCIETY AND refpe&able citizens of the republic. This young gentleman had, in appearance, every reafon to be fatisfied with his lot* He was handfome, and in the vigour of youth, married to a woman of an excellent cha- racter, who had brought him a great for- tune, and by whom he was the father of a fine child. In the midft of all thefe bleffings, furrounded by every thing which could in- ^ire a man with an attachment to life 3 he felt it infupportable, and without any obvious caufe of chagrin, determined to deftroy himfelf. Having paffed fome hours with his mo- ther, a moft valuable woman, and with his wife and child, he left them in apparent good humour, went into another room, ap- plied the muzzle of a mufket to his fore- head, thruft back the trigger with his toe, and blew out his brains, in the hearing of the unfufpeding company he had juft quitted. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 303 The fecond infiance, is that of a black- fmith, who, taking the fame fatal refolu- tion, and not having any convenient inftru- ment at hand, charged an old gun-barrel with a brace of bullets, and putting one end into the fire of his forge, tied a firing to the handle of the bellows, by pulling of which he could make them play, while he was at a convenient diftance. Kneeling down, he then placed his head near the mouth of the barrel, and moving the bel- lows by means of the firing, they blew up the fire, he keeping his head with aftonifh- ing firmnefs, and horrible deliberation, in that pofition, till the farther end of the barrel was fp heated as to kindle the pow- der, whofe explofion inftantly drove the bullets through his brains* Though I know that this happened li- terally as I have related, yet there is fomething fo extraordinary, and almoft in- credible, in the circumftances, that perhaps I I (hould 3 04 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I fhould not have mentioned it, had it not been well attefted, and known to the inha- bitants of Geneva, and all the Englifh who are at prefent here. Why fuicide is more frequent in Great Britain and Geneva than elfewhere, would be a matter of curious inveftigation. For it appears very extraordinary, that men fhould be moft inclined to kill themfelves in coun- tries where the bleffings of life are beft fecured. There muft be fome ftrong and peculiar caufe for an efFed fo prepofterous* Before coming here, I was of opinion, that the frequency of fuicide in England Was occafioned in a great meafure by the ftormy and unequal climate, Which, while it clouds the fky, throws alfo a gloom over the minds of the natives.— To this caufe* foreigners generally add, that of the ufe of coal, inftead of wood, for fuel. I refted MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 365 I refted fatisfied with fome vague theory, built on thefe taken together : — But nei- ther can account for the fame effect at Ge- neva, where coal is not ufed, and where the climate is the fame with that in Swit- zerland, Savoy, and the neighbouring parts of France, where inftances of fuicide are certainly much more rare. Without prefuming to decide what are the remote caufes of this fatal propenfity, it appears evident to me, that no reafoning can have the fmallefl force in preventing it, but what is founded upon the foul's im- mortality and a future ftate, — What effect can the common arguments have on a man who does not believe that neceflary and im- portant do&rine ? — He may be told, that he did not give himfelf life, therefore he has no right to take it away ; — that he is a centinel cn a poft, and ought to remain till he is relieved j— what is all this to the Vol. L X man 3 o6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND man who thinks he is never to be ques- tioned for his violence and defertion ? If you attempt to pique this man's pride* by afferting, that it is a greater proof of courage to bear the ills of life, than to flee from them ; he will anfwer you from the Roman hiftory, and afk, Whether Cato, Caflius, and Marcus Brutus, were cowards ? The great legiflator of the Jews feems to have been convinced, that no law or argument againft fuicide could have any influence on the minds of people who w r ere ignorant of the foul's immortality ; and therefore, as he did not think it neceflary to inftruft them in the one (for reafons which the Bifhop of Gloucefter has un- folded in his treatife on the Divine Legation of Mofes), he alfo thought it Superfluous to give them any exprefs law againft the other. Thofe Manners in France, &c. 307 Thofe philofophers, therefore, who have endeavoured to fhake this great and im portant convi&ion from the minds of men* have thereby opened a door to fulcide as well as to other crimes. — For* whoever rea- fons againft that, without founding upoil the do&rine of a future ftate, will foon fee all his arguments overturned. It muft be acknowledged, indeed, that in many cafes this queftion is decided by men's feelings, independent of reafonings of any kind. Nature has not trufted a matter of fo great importance entirely to the fallible reafon of man ; but has planted in the human breaft fuch a love of life, and horror of death, as feldom can be overcome evea by the greateft misfortunes. But there is a difeafe which fometimes affe&s the body, and afterwards communi- cates its baneful influence to the mind, over X 3 which 3 c8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND which it hangs fuch a cloud of horrors as renders life abfolutely infupportable. Ia this dreadful ftate, every pleafing idea is banifhed, and all the fources of comfort in life are poifoned. Neither fortune^ honours, friends, nor family, can afford the fmalleft fatisfa&ion. Hope, the laft pil- lar of the wretched, falls to the ground — Defpair lays hold of the abandoned fufferer — Then all reafoning becomes vain— Even arguments of religion have no weight, and the poor creature embraces death as his only friend, which, as he thinks, may terminate, but cannot augment, hismifery. I am, &c. P. S. You need not write till you hear from me again, as I think it is probable that we fliall have left this place before your letter could arrive. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 309 LETTER XXXIII. Laufanne. q^HE D— of H- having a defire #? to vifit fome of the German Courts, we bade adieu to our friends at Geneva, and are thus far on our intended journey. It is of peculiar advantage in Germany, above all other countries, to be in company with a man of rank and high title, becaufe it facilitates your reception every where, and fuperfedes the neceffity of recommen- datory letters, I have met here with my friend B — n, whofe company and converfation have re- tarded our journey, by fupplying the chief objeds of travelling, if amufement and in^ ftru&ion are to be ranked among them. He is here with the M s of L y, X 3 a lively* 3io VIEW OF SOCIETY AND a lively, fpirited young man j — one of thofe eafy, carelefs chara&ers, fo much beloved by their intimates, and fo regardlefs of the opinion of the reft of mankind. Since you hold me to my promife of writing fo very regularly, you muft fome- times exped to receive a letter dated from three or four different places, when either my fhort flay in one place deprives me of the leifure, or meeting with nothing un- common in another deprives me of mate- rials for fo long a letter as you require. The road from Geneva to this town is along the fide of the lake, through a de~ lightful country, abounding in vineyards, which produce the vin de la cdte, fo much efteemed. All the little towns on the way, Nyon, Rolle, and Morges, are finely fitu« ated, neatly built, and inhabited by a thrive ?ng and contented people, Laufanne MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 311 Laufanne is the capital of this charm- > ing country, which formerly belonged to the Duke of Savoy, but is now under the dominion of the canton of Bern* However mortifying this may be to the former pofleflbr, it has certainly been a happy difpenfation to the inhabitants of the Pays de Vaud, who are in every refpedt more at their eafe, and in a better fituation, than any of the fubje&s of his Sardinian Majefty. This city is fituated near the lake, and at the diilance of about thirty miles from Geneva. As the nobility, from the coun- try, and from fome parts of Switzerland, and the families of feveral officers, who have retired from fervice, refide here, there is an air of more eafe and gaiety (perhaps alfo more politenefs) in the focieties at Laufanne, than in thofe of Geneva ; at leaft this is firmly believed and aiferted by all X 4 the 3 r2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND the nobles of this place, who confider themfelves as greatly fuperior to the citi- zens of Geneva. Thefe, on the other hand, talk a good deal of the poverty, fri-? voloufnefs, and ignorance of thofe fame nobility, and make no fcruple of ranking their own enlightened mechanics above them in every eiTential quality. Vevay, The road between Laufanne and Vevay is very mountainous ; but the mountains are cultivated to the fummits, and covered with Tines. This would have been impradti- cable on account of the fteepnefs, had not the proprietors built ftrong ftone-walls at proper intervals, one above the other, which fupport the foil, and form little terraces from the bottom to the top of the mountains* The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 313 The peafants afcend by narrow flairs, and, before they arrive at the ground they are to cultivate, have frequently to mount higher than a mafon who is employed in repairing the top of a fteeple. The mountainous nature of this country fubje&s it to frequent torrents, which, when violent, fweep away vines, foil, and walls in one common deflru&ion. The inhabitants behold the havoc with a fteady concern, and, without giving way to the clamorous rage of the French, or finking into the gloomy defpair of the Englifh, think only of the moft efFe&ual means of repairing the lofs. — As foon as the florin has abated, they begin, with admirable pa- tience and perfeverance, to rebuild the walls, to carry frefh earth on hurdles to the top of the mountain, and to fpread a new foil wherever the old has been wafhed away. Where 3 i 4 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Where property is perfe&ly fecure, and men allowed to enjoy the fruits of their own labour, they are capable of efforts unknown in thofe countries where defpotifm renders every thing precarious, and where a tyrant reaps what flaves have fpwn. This part of the Pays de Vaud is inha- bited by the defcendents of thofe unhappy people, who were driven by the mod ab- furd and cruel perfecution from the yallies of Piedmont and Savoy, I will not aflert, that the iniquity of the perfecutors has been vifited upon their children; but the fufferings and ftedfaft- nefs of the perfecuted feem to be recom- penfed by the happy fituation in which their children of the third and fourth ge- nerations are now placed. Vevay is a pretty little town, containing between three and four thoufand inhabit- ants* MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 315 ants. It is fweetly fituated on a plain, near the head of the lake of Geneva, where the Rhone enters. The mountains behind the town, though exceedingly high, are entirely cultivated, like thofe on the road from Laufanne. There is a large village about half-way lip the mountain, in a diredt line above Vevay, which, viewed from below, feems adhering to the fide of the precipice, and has a very lingular and romantic appearance. The principal church is detached from the town, and fituated on a hill which overlooks it. From the terrace, or church- yard, there is a view of the Alps, the Rhone, the lake, with towns and villages on its marginc Within this church the body of General Ludlow is depofited. That fteady republican withdrew from Laufanne to this place, after the affaffination of his friend Lille, who was fliot through the heart, 3 i6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND heart, as he was going to church, by a ruffian, who had come acrofs the lake for that pur^ofe, and who, am id ft the confu- fion occaitoned by the murder, got fafe to the boat, and efcaped to the Duke of Savoy's territories on the other fide, where he was openly protected. — This was a pitiful way of avenging the death of a monarch, who, whether juftly or not, had been publicly condemned and executed. There is a long Latin epitaph on Lud- low's monument, enumerating many cir- cumftances of his life, but omitting the mod remarkable of them all. He is called, Patriae libertatis defenfor, et poteftatis arbi- tral propugnator acerrimus, &c. — But no nearer hint is given of his having been one of King Charles the Firft's judges, and of his having figned the fentence againft that ill-fated Prince* However fond the Swifs in general may be of liberty, and however partial to its 2 alienors* MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 317 aflertors, it is prefumable that thofe who prote&ed Ludlow, did not approve of this part of his ftory, and on that account a particular mention of it was not made on his tomb. There is no travelling by poft through Switzerland ; we therefore hired horfes at Geneva, to carry us to Bafil j from whence we can proceed by poft to Strafbourg, which is the route we defign to take. We leave Laufanne the day after to-morrow* 3i§ VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XXXIV. Bern. N my return from Vevay to Laufanne, I found our friend* Mr. H— — y, at the inn, with the D — of H . His Grace inclines to remain fome time longer at that city; but defired that I might proceed with the carriages and all the fervants, except his valet-de-chambre and one footman, to Strafbourg, which I readily agreed to, on his promifing to join me there within a few days. H — y, at the fame time, made the very agreeable propofal of accompany- ing me to Strafbourg, where he will remain till our departure from thence, leaving his chaife for the D — . We began our journey the following day, and were efcorted as far as Payerne by Meffr& MANNERS IN FRANCE, & c ; %t§ Meflrs. B n and O n, where we pafled a gay evening, and proceeded next morning to the town of Avanche, the ca- pital of Switzerland in Tacitus's time*. No country in the world can be more agreeable to travellers during the fummer than Switzerland: For, befides the com- modious roads and comfortable inns, fome of the mod beautiful obje&s of nature, woods, mountains, lakes, intermingled with fertile fields, vineyards, and fcenes of the moil perfect cultivation, are here prefented to the eye in greater variety, and on a larger fcale, than in any other country. From Avanche we advanced to Murten, or Murat, as it is pronounced by the * Near this town the Helvetians were defeated by Ca- rina, one of Vitellius's Lieu tenants. — Multahominum millia csefa, multa fub corona venumdata. Cumque direptis om- nibus, Aventicum gentis caput jufto agmine peteretur. Taciti Hiftoria, lib. i. cap. 68. 7 French, 3 20 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND French, a neat little town, fituated upon a rifing ground, on the fide of the lake of the fame name. The army of Charles Duke of Burgundy^ befieging this town, was defeated, with great {laughter, by the Swifs, in the year 1476. Near the road, within a mile of Murat, there is a little building full of hu- man bones, which are faid to be thofe of the Burgundians flain in that battle. As this curious cabinet was ere&ed many years after the battle, it may be fuppofed, that fome of the bones of the vi&ors are here packed up along with thofe of the van- quifhed, in order to fwell the collection. There are feveral inscriptions on th€ chapel. DEO OPTIM. MAX* CAROLI INCLITI ET FORTISSIMI BURG UNDINE DUCIS EXERCITUS MURATUM GBSIDENS AB HELVETIIS CiESUS HOC SUI MONUMENTUM RELIQUIT, 1476. On MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. On another fide is the following : 321 SACELLUM QUO RELIQUIAS EXERCITUS BURGUNDICI AB HELVETIIS, A. 1476, PIA ANTIQUITAS CONDIDIT* RENOVARI VIISQUE PUBLICIS MUNIRI JUSSERUNT RERUM NUNC DOMING REIPUBLIC.E BERNENSIS ET FRIBURGENSIS ANNO 1755. The borders of the lake of Murat are enriched with gentlemen's houfes, and vil- lages in great abundance. The drefs, manners, and perfons of the inhabitants of this country indicate a differ- ent people from the Genqvois, Savoyards^ or the inhabitants of the Pays de Vaud. Vol. I. Y We 3 22 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND We dined at Murat, and remained feve- ral hours in the town. There was a fair, and a great concourfe of people*- The Swifs peafants are the talleft and mod ro- buft I have ever feen. Their drefs is very particular. — They have little round hats, like thofe worn by the Dutch fkippers. — Their coats and waiflcoats are all of a kind of coarfe black cloth. — Their breeches are made of coarfe linen, fomething like failors trowfers ; but drawn together in plaits be- low the knees, and the ftockings are of the fame ftufF with the breeches. The women wear fhort jackets, with a great fuperfluity of buttons. The unmar- ried women value themfelves on the length of their hair, which they feparate into two divifions, and allow to hang at its full length, braided with ribands in the Ra- millie faflrion. After marriage, thefe treffes are no longer permitted to hang down ; MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 323 down ; but, being twifted round the head in fpiral lines, are fixed at the crown with large filver pins. This is the only differ- ence in point of drefs which matrimony makes. Married and unmarried wear flraw hats, ornamented with black ribands. So far the women's drefs is becoming enough ; but they have an aukward manner of fix- ing their petticoats fo high as to leave hardly any waift. This encroachment of the petticoats upon the waift, with the amazing number they wear, gives a fize and importance to the lower and hind part of the body to which it is by no means en- titled, and mightily deforms the appear- ance of the whole perfon. The elegant figure of the Venus de Medicis, or of the D fs of D re, would be impaired, or annihilated, under Y 2 fuch 324. VIEW OF SOCIETY AND fuch a prepofterous load of drefs.- As we arrived only this afternoon, I can fay nothing of Bern. You fhall hear more in my next. Meanwhile, I am, &c. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 325 LETTER XXXV. Bern. 1H|ERN is a regular well-built town, with Jl3 fome air of magnificence. The houfes are of a fine white free-ftone, and pretty uniform, particularly in the principal ftreet, where they are all exa&ly of the fame height. There are piazzas on each fide, w r ith a walk, raifed four feet above the level of the ftreet, very commodious in wet weather. A fmall branch of the Aar has been turned into this ftreet, and being confined to a narrow channel in the middle, which has a confiderable flope, it runs with great rapidity ; and, without being a difagreeable objedt of itfelf, is of great fervice in keep- ing the ftreet clean. Y 3 Another 3 26 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Another circumftance contributes to ren- der this one of the mod cleanly towns in Europe : — Criminals are employed in re- moving rubbifh from the ftreets and public walks. The more atrocious delinquents are chained to waggons, while thofe who are condemned for fmaller crimes, are em- ployed in fweeping the light rubbifh into the rivulet, and throwing the heavier into the carts or waggons, which their more criminal companions are obliged to pufh or draw along. Thefe wretches have collars of iron fixed around their necks, with a projeding handle in the form of a hook to each, by which, on the flighteft offence or mutiny, they may be feized, and are entirely at the com- mand of the guard, whofe duty it is to fee them perform their work, — People of both fexes are condemned to this labour for months, years, or for life, according to the nature of their crimes. It MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 327 It is alleged, that over and above the de- terring from crimes, which is effected by this, in common with the other methods of punifhing, there is the additional advan- tage, of obliging the criminal to repair by his labour the injury which he has done to the community. I fufpe£t, however, that this advantage is overbalanced by the bad efFe&s of habi- tuating people to behold the mifery of their fellow- creatures, which I imagine gradu- ally hardens the hearts of the fpe&ators, and renders them lefs fufceptible of the emotions of compaffion and pity ; — feel- ings, which, perhaps of all others, have the beft influence upon, and are the moft be- coming, human nature. Juvenal fays, mollifiima corda Humano generi dare fe natura fatetur, Quae lachrymas dedit : haec noftri pars opti- ma fenfus. Y 4 Wherever 328 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Wherever public executions and punifh- ments are frequent, the common people have been obferved to acquire a greater de- gree of infenfibility, and cruelty of difpofi- tion, than in places where fuch fcenes fel- dom occur. — I remember, while I was at Geneva, where executions are very rare, a young man was condemned to be hanged for murder, and there was a general gloom and uneafinefs evident in every fo- ciety for feveral days before and after the execution. The public buildings at Bern, as the ho- fpital, the granary, the guard-houfe, the arfenal, and the churches, are magnificent. There is a very elegant building juft com- pleted, with accommodations for many public amufements, fuch as balls, concerts, and theatrical entertainments. There are alfo apartments for private focieties and af- femblies. It was built by a voluntary fub- fcription among the nobility ; and no fo- 6 cieties, MANNERS IN FRANCE, & c . 329 cieties, but of the patrician order, are al- lowed there. Theatrical entertainments are feldom permitted at Bern ; none have as yet been performed at this new theatre. The walk by the great church was for- merly the only public walk, and much ad- mired on account of the view from it, and the peculiarity of its fituation, being on a level with the ftreets on one fide, and fome hundred feet of perpendicular height above them on the other. But there is now ano- ther public walk, at fome diftance without the town, which has been lately made upon a high bank by the fide of the Aar, and is the moft magnificent I ever faw belonging to this or any other town. From it there is a commanding view of the river, the town of Bern, the country about it> and the Gla- ciers of Switzerland. I have 33 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I have vifited the library, where, befides the books, there are a few antiques, and fome other curiofities. The fmall figure of the prieft pouring wine between the horns of a bull, is valuable only becaufe it illus- trates a paflage in Virgil, and has been mentioned by Addifon. An addition was lately made to this li- brary by a colledion of Englilh books, magnificently bound, which were fent as a prefent by an Engliih gentleman ; who, though he has thought proper to conceal his name, has Sufficiently difcovered his political principles by the nature of the colle&ion, amongft which, I diftinguiflied Milton's works, particularly his profe wri- tings ; Algernon Sidney on Government, -Locke, Ludlow's Memoirs, Gordon's trans- lation of Tacitus, Addifon s works, particu- larly The Freeholder ; Marvels works, Steel's, &Ct They were the largeft and fineft editions, and might be about the value of MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 331 of 200 I. — This gentleman made a prefent of the fame nature to the public library at Geneva. I happened to open the Glafgow edi- tion of Homer, which I faw here, on a blank page of which was an addrefs in Latin to the Corfican General, Paoli, figned James Bofwell. This very elegant book had been fent, I fuppofe, as a prefent from Mr. Bofwell to his friend the General ; and, when that unfortunate chief was obliged to abandon his country, fell, with other of his efFe&s, into the hands of the Swifs officer in the French fervice, who made a prefent of the Homer to this library. The arfenal I could not have omitted fee- ing had I been fo inclined, as the Bernois value themfelves on the trophies contained in it, and upon the quantity, good condi- tion, and arrangement of the arms. Nothing 332 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Nothing interefted me fo much as the figures of the brave Switzers, who firft took arms againft tyranny, and that of William Tell, who is reprefented aiming at the apple on his fon's head. I contemplated this with an emotion which was created by the circumftances of the ftory, not by the workmanfhip ; for, at that moment, I fhould have beheld with negled the mod exquifite ftatue that ever was formed of Auguftus Ca^far. Surely no chara&ers have fo juft a claim to the admiration and gratitude of pofterity, as thofe who have freed their countrymen from the capricious infolence of tyrants : And whether all the incidents of Tell's ftory be true or fabulous, the men (who- ever they were) who roufed and incited their fellow-citizens to throw off the Aus- trian yoke, deferve to be regarded as pa- triots, having undoubtedly been actuated by MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 333 by that principle, fo dear to every generous heart, the fpirit of independence. " Who with the gen'rous ruftics fate, u On Uri's rock, in clofe divan, And wing'd that arrow Jure as fate, " Which afcertain'd the facred rights of " man" Mr. Addifon obferves, that there is no great pleafure in vifiting arfenals, merely to fee a repetition of thefe magazines of war ; yet it is worth while, as it gives an idea of the force of a ftate, and ferves to fix in the mind the moft confiderable parts of its hiftory. The arms taken from the Burgundians, in the various battles which eftablifhed the liberty of Switzerland, are difplayed here ; alfo the figure of the General of Bern, who, in the year 1536, conquered the Pays de Vaud from Charles III. Duke of Savoy And, if they have no trophies to fliew of a later date, I am convinced it is hecaufe they 334 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND they are too poor and too wife to aim at any extenfion of dominion: — And becaufe all the neighbouring powers are at length become fenfible, that the nature of their country, and their perfonal valour, have rendered the Swifs as unconquerable, as, from political considerations, they are averfe to attempt conquefts. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 335 LETTER XXXVI. Bern. ^HE different cantons of Switzerland, though united together by a common bond, and all of a republican form of go- vernment, differ in the nature of that form, as well as in religion. The Roman Catholic religion being fa- vourable to monarchy, one would naturally imagine, that, when adopted by a republic, it would gradually wind up the govern- ment to the higheft pitch of ariftocracy. The fad neverthelefs is, that thofe can- tons, which are in the ftrongeft degree de- mocratical, are of the Popifh perfuafion; and the mod perfect ariftocracy of them 3 all 336 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND all is eftablifhed in this Proteftant canton of Bern, which is alfo indeed the mod pow- erful. In extent of country, and number of inhabitants, it is reckoned nearly equal to all the others taken together. The nobility of Bern are accufed of w extraordinary degree of pride and fiateli- nefs. They affedt to keep the citizens at a great diftance ; and it is with difficulty that their wives and daughters will conde- fcend to mix with the mercantile families at balls, affemblies, and fuch public occa- fions, where numbers feem effential to the nature of the entertainment ; by which means a nobility ball lofes in cheerfulnefs what it retains in dignity, and is often, as I am told, as devoid of amufement as it is folemn. The whole power of the government, and all the honourable offices of the ftate, are in the hands of the nobility. As it is not permitted MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 337 permitted them to trade, they would natu- rally fall into poverty without this refource : But by the number of places which the nobles enjoy, and to which very cotifider- able penfions are annexed, the pooreft of them are enabled to fupport their families with dignity. The bailHages, into which the whole canton and the conquered territories are divided, form lucrative and honourable eftablifhments for the principal families of Bern. The bailiff is governor arid judge in his own diftridl, and there is a magni- ficent chateau in each for his accommoda- tion. An appeal may be made from all fubordinate courts to him ; as alfo from his decifion, to the council at Bern. The nobility of Bern, though born to be judges, are not always inftru&ed in law. It has therefore been thought requifite, to appoint a certain number of perfons, as their Vol. L Z affefTors 3 33 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND afleffors, who have been bred to the pro- feffion. But in cafe the judge fhould differ from thofe affeffors, and retain his own opinion in fpite of their remonftrances, as nobility has the precedency of law, the de- cifion muft be given according to the will of the judge. This office remains in the hands of the fame perfon for the term of fix years only* I have been informed, that in fome of thefe bailliages, the governor may live with pro- per magnificence, and lay up, during the period of his office, two or three thoufand pounds, without extortion, or unbecoming parfimony. There is no law againft his being afterwards named to another bailliage. The executive power of the government, with all the lucrative and honourable of- fices, being thus in the hands of the nobi- lity, it may be imagined, that the middle and lower ranks of people are poor and op- prefled. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 339 preffed. This, however, is by no means the cafe ; for the citizens, I mean the mer- chants and trades-people, feem, in general, to enjoy all the comforts and conveniencies of life. And the peafantry is uncommonly wealthy throughout the whole canton of Bern* The Swifs have ilo obje&ion to their nobles being their judges, and to the prin- cipal offices of government remaining in their hands. They look upon the nobility as their natural fuperiors, and think, that they and their families ought to be fup- ported with a certain degree of fplendor: — But the power of dire£t taxation is a differ- ent queftion, and muft be managed with all poffible caution and delicacy. It is a common caufe, and the conduct of the nobles in this particular is watched with very jealous eyes. They are fufficiently aware of this, and ufe their power with moderation. But left the nobles fhould at Z 2 any 340 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND any time forget, a very good hint is given in a German infcription in the arfenal, im- plying, That the infolence and rapacity of high rank had brought about the liberty of Switzerland. A people who have always arms in their hands, and form the only military force of the country, are in no danger of being op- preffed and irritated with taxes. It has been confidered by fome as a per- nicious policy in the Swifs, to allow fo many of their inhabitants to ferve as mer- cenaries in the different armies of Europe. There are others, who confider this mea- fure as expedient, or lefs pernicious in the Swifs cantons, than it would be in any other country. They who fupport this opinion, aflert, that every part of Switzerland, which is ca- pable of cultivation, is already improved to the MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 341 the higheft degree ; that, after retaining a fufficient number of hands to keep it al- ways in this condition, and for the fupport of every manufa&ory, ftill there remains a furplus of inhabitants, which forms the troops that are allowed to go into foreign fervices. They add, that thefe troops only engage for a limited number of years, after the expiration of which, many of them re- turn with money to their native country ; and all of them, by ftipulation, may be re- called by the ftate on any emergency. — By this means, they retain a numerous and well-difciplined army on foot j which, fo far from being a burden, in reality enriches the ftate : — an advantage which no other people ever pofleffed* There is ftill another motive for this meafure, which, though it be not openly avowed, yet, I fufped:, has considerable weight: The council are perhaps afraid, that if the young nobility were kept at Z» 3 home, 342 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND home, where they could have but few ob- jects to occupy them, they might cabal and fpread diffentions in the ftate ; or perhaps, through idlenefs and ambition, excite dan- gerous infurre&ions among the peafants* For, although the laws are fevere againft ftate crimes, aiid eafily put in execution againft ordinary offenders, it might be dif- ficult and dangerous to punifli a popular young nobleman. It may on thefe accounts be thought highly prudent, to allow a large proportion of them to exhauft, in fome foreign fer- vice, the fiery and reftlefs years of youth, which at home might have been fpent in fa&ion and dangerous intrigues. Very probably the ftates would incline to per- mit the officers to go, while they retained the private men at home; but are under a neceflity of allowing the latter alfo, becaufe without them the officers could not be raifed to ihofe difiinguifhed fituations in foreign MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 343 foreign fervices which are their greateft in- ducements to leave their own country. After having ferved a certain time, al- moft all of them return to Switzerland. Some, becaufe they are tired of diffipation ; others to inherit a paternal eftate; and many with penfions from the Princes they have ferved. — The heat of youth is then moft probably over. — They begin to afpire to thofe offices in their own country to which their birth gives them a claim, and which they now prefer to the luftre of mi- litary rank. They wifh to fupport thofe laws, and that government, which they find fo partial to their families ; or they defire to pafs the remainder of life in eafe and re- tirement on their paternal eftates. It is remarkable, that the Swifs officers, who return from foreign fervices, particu- larly that of France, inftead of importing French manners to their native mountains, Z 4 and 344 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND and infecting their countrymen with the luxuries and fopperies of that nation, throw off all foreign airs with their uniform, and immediately refume the plain and frugal ftyle of life which prevails in their own country, MANNERS IN FRANCE,' &c 345 LETTER XXXVII. BafiL HAVING, on a former occafion, made a more extenfive tour through Switzer- land, we determined not to deviate from the direct road to Strafbourg. In purfuance of this refolution, H y and I, when we left Bern, pafTed by Soleurre, the capital of the canton of the fame name* Soleurre is an agreeable little town fili- ated on the river Aar. The houfes are neatly built, and not inelegant ; the mean- eft of them have a cleanly appearance. The common people feem to be in eafier circumftances, and have a greater air of content, than in any Roman Catholic coun- try I have ever vifitecj. The inn where we lodged 346 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND lodged has the comfortable look of an Eng- lifh one. The French ambaffador to the cantons has his refidence in this town. One of the churches of Soleurre is the mod mag- nificent modern building in Switzerland, The arfenal is ftored with arms in pro- portion to the number of inhabitants in the canton ; and there are trophies, and other monuments of the valour of their anceftors, as in the arfenal of Bern. In the middle of the hall there are thirteen figures of men in complete armour, reprefenting the thir- teen Swifs cantons. The country between Soleurre and Bafil, though very hilly, is beautiful, perhaps the more fo on that account ; becaufe of the variety of furface and different views it prefents. H y and I had more leifure to admire thofe fine landfcapes than we wifhed, for the axle tree of the chaife broke at fome miles diftant from BafiL 6 It MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 347 It was the gay feafon of the vintage.—* The country was crowded with peafantry of both fexes and every age, all employed in gathering and carrying home the grapes* Our walk for thefe few miles was agreeable and amufing. In all countries this is the feafon of joy and feftivity, and approaches neareft the exaggerated defcription which the ancient poets have given of rural hap- pinefs. Perhaps there is in reality not fo much exaggeration in their defcription, as alteration in our manners. — For, if the pea- fants were allowed to enjoy the fruits of their own labour, would not their lives be more delightful than thofe of any other people? — In fpite of poverty and oppreffion, a happy enthufiafm, a charming madnefs, and perfed oblivion of care, are diffufed all over France during the vintage. — Every village is enlivened with mufic, dancing, and glee; — and were it not for their tattered clothes and emaciated countenances, one who viewed them in the vintage feafon, would 34 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND would imagine the country people of France in a fituation as enviable as that which, ac- cording to the Poets, was formerly enjoyed by the Shepherds of Arcadia^ — The pea- fantry of this country have not fo great a fenfibility or expreffion of joy ; and though blefftd with health, freedom, and abun- dance, a compofed fatisfaftion, a kind of phlegmatic good-humour, mark the boun- daries of their happinefs. When we arrived at Bafil, we went di- rectly to the Three Kings. This inn, in point of fituation, is the mod agreeable you can well imagine. The Rhone wafhes its walls, and the windows of a large dining- room look acrofs that noble river to the fertile plains on the oppofite fide. I am jufl: returned from that fame dining- room, where H y and I thought pro- per to fop.- — There were ten or a dozen people at table. — I fat next to a genteel- looking MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 3+9 looking man from Strafbourg, with whom I converfed a good deal during fupper. He had for his companion a round-faced, rofy, plump gentleman, from Amfterdam, who did not fpeak French; but the Strafburgher addrefled him from time to time in Low Dutch, to which the other replied by nods,. When the retreat of the greater part of the company had contracted the little circle which remained, I exprefled fome regret to my Strafbourg acquaintance, that Mr. H— y and I could not fpeak a little Dutch; or that his friend could not fpeak French, that we might enjoy the pleafure of his conver- fation. This w r as immediately tranfiated to the Dutchman, who heard it with great compofure, and then took his pipe from his mouth, and made an anfwer, which I got our interpreter, with fome difficulty, to explain. It was to this effect:— That we ought to confole ourfelves for the accident of our not underftanding each other; for as 35 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND we had no conne&ion, or dealings in trade together, our converfing could not poffibly anfwer any ufeful purpofe. H y made a low bow to this compliment, faying, that the juftnefs and good fenfe of that remark had certainly efcaped my obfervation, as he acknowledged it had hitherto done his* A man that travels, you fee, my friend, and takes care to get into good company, is always learning fomething. — Had I not vifited the Three Kings at Bafil, I might have converfed all my lifetime without knowing the true ufe of language. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c> 351 LETTER XXXVIIL SaflL q^HERE has been an interval of three days fince I had the converfation with my ingenious acquaintance from Amfter- dam. We are affured that the chaife, which has been accommodated with a new- axle-tree, will be ready this afternoon. In the interim, I fhall write you a few re- marks on this tov/n. Bafil is larger than any town in Switzer- land, but not fo populous for its fize as Geneva. The inhabitants feem to be un- commonly afraid of thieves, moft of the windows being guarded by iron bars or grates, like thofe of convents or prifons. I obferved 352 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND I obferved at the lower end of many windows a kind of wooden box, project- ing towards the ftreet, with a round glafs, of about half a foot diameter, in the mid- dle. I was told this was for the conve- niency of people within; who, without being feen, choofe to fit at the windows, and amufe themfelves by looking at the paffengers ; — that they were moftly occu- pied by the ladies, who are taught to think it indecent to appear at the win- dows. The inhabitants of Bafil feem to be of a referved and faturnine difpofition; whe- ther it is natural or affe&ed I cannot tell, but the few I converfed with, had fome- thing uncommonly ferious and formal in their manner. How an unremitting gra- vity and folemnity of manner in the com- mon affairs of life, comes to be confidered as an indication of wifdom, or of extraor* d.!^" r Y ver could under- ftand* MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 353 Hand. — So many ridiculous things occur every day in this world, that men who are endowed with that degree of fenfibility which ufually accompanies genius, find it \ T ery difficult to maintain a continued gra- vity. This difficulty is abundantly felt even in the grave and learned profefiions of law, phyfic, and divinity ; and the indi- viduals who have been moft fuccefsful in furmounting it, and who never deviate from the folemnity of bftabliffied forms, have not always been the moft diftinguiftied for real knowledge or genius ; though they generally are moft admired by the mul- titude, who are very apt to miftake that gravity for wifdom, which proceeds from a literal weight of brain, and muddinefs of iinderftanding. Miftakes of the fame kind are frequently made in forming a judgment of books, as well as men. Thofe which profefs a formal defign to inftrudt and reform, and carry on the work me- thodically till the reader is lulled into re- Vol. I. A a pofe, 354 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND pofe, have pafled for deep and ufeful per- formances ; while others, replete with original obfervation and real inflru&ion, have been treated as frivolous, becaufe they are written in a familiar ftyle, and the precepts conveyed in a fprightly and indi- rect manner* Works which are compofed with the laborious defire of being thought profound 5 have fo very often the misfortune to be dull, that fome people have confidered the two terms as fynonymous ; and the men who receive it as a rule, that one fet of books are profound becaufe they are dull, may naturally conclude that others are fuperficial becaufe they are entertaining* With refpedt to books, however, matters are foon fet to rights j thofe of puffed and falfe pretenfions die negle&ed, while thofe of real merit live and flourifh. But with regard to the men, the cataftrophe is often different ; we daily fee formal affuming blockheads MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 355 blockheads flourifli and enjoy the fruits of their pompous impofitions, while many men of talents who difdain fuch arts, live in obfcurity, and die negle&ed.— ~ — I alk you pardon, I have juft recolle&ed that I was giving you fome account of Bafil. The library here is much efteemed. — It is reckoned particularly rich in manu- fcripts. They fhowed us one of a Greek New Teftament, with which you may be- lieve H — y and I were greatly edified. We are told it is above a thoufand years old. At the arfenal is fhown, the armour in which Charles Duke of Burgundy was killed. That unfortunate prince has orna- mented all the arfenals in Switzerland with trophies. We vifited the hall where the famous Council fat fo many years, and voted fo A a 2 intrepidly 35 6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND intrepidly againft the Pope. Not fatisfied with condemning his conduct, they ao tually damned him in effigy. A famous painting, in the town-houfe, is fuppofed to have been executed under their aufpices. In this piece the Devil is reprefented driving the Pope and feveral ecclefiaftics before him to Hell. — Why they fhould fuppofe the Devil fhould be fo very a&ive againft his Holinefs, I know no reafon« Here are many pidures of Hans Hol- ben's (who was a native of Bafil, and the favourite painter of Henry VIII. to whom he was firft recommended by Erafmus); particularly, feveral portraits of Erafmus* and one {ketch of Sir Thomas More's fa- mily. Though portraits are in general the moil infipid of all kinds of paintings, yet thofe of fuch celebrated perfons, done by fuch a painter, are certainly very intereft- ing pieces. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 357 The raoft admired of all Holben's works, is a fuite of fmall pieces in differ- ent compartments, reprefenting the paffion and fufferings of our Saviour. In thefe the colours remain with wonderful viva- city. We were alfo conducted to the difmal gallery, upon whofe walls, what is called Holben's Death's Dance, is reprefented; The colours having been long expofed to the air, are now quite faded, which I can fcarce think is much to be regretted, for the plan of the piece is fo wretched, that the fineft execution could hardly prevent it from giving difguft. A fkeleton, which reprefents Death, leads off, in a dancing attitude, people of both fexes, of all ages, and of every con- dition, from the emperor to the beggar. All of them difplay the greateft unwilling- neis to accompany their hideous partner, A a 3 who, 35 8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND who, rega reliefs of tears, expoftulations* and bribes, draws them along. You will take notice, that there is a Death for each chara&er, which occafions a naufeous repetition of the fame figure ; and the relu&ance marked by the different people who are forced to this hated minuet, is in fome accompanied with grimaces fo very ridiculous, that one cannot refrain from finiling, w r hich furely is not the ef- fect the painter intended to produce* — If he did, of all the contrivances that ever were thought of to put people in good- hu- mour, his jiiuft be allowed the mod ex-* traordinary. To this piece, fuch as it is, Prior alludes in his ode to the memory of Colonel ViU lers. Nor aw'd by forefight, nor milled by chance, Imperious Death direfts his ebon lance, Peoples great Henry's tomb, and leads up Hoi ben's dance. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 359 In this city all the clocks are an hour advanced. When it is but one o'clock in all the towns and villages around, it is exa&ly two at Bafil. This Angularity is of three or four hundred years (landing; and what is as fingular as the cuftom itfelf, the origin of it is not known. This is plain, by their giving quite different ac- counts of it. The moft popular ftory is, that, about four hundred years ago, the city was threatened with an affault by furprife. The enemy was to begin the attack when the large clock of the tower at one end of the bridge ihould ftrike one after mid- night. The artift who had the care of the clock, being informed that this was the ex- pected fignal, caufed the clock to be altered, and it ftruck two inftead of one ; fo the enemy thinking they were an hour too late, gave up the attempt; and in commemora- tion of this deliverance, all the clocks in A a 4 Bafil 360 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Bafil have ever fmce ftruck two at one o'clock, and fo on. In cafe this account of the matter fhould not be fatisfa£tory, they fhow, by way of confirmation, a head, which is placed near to this patriotic clock, with the face turned to the road by which the enemy was to have entered. This fame head lolls out its tongue every minute, in the moft infult- ing manner poffible. This was originally a piece of mechanical wit of the famous clockmaker's who faved the town. He framed it in derifion of the enemy, whom he had fo dexteroufly deceived. It has been repaired, renewed, and enabled to thruft out its tongue every minute, for thefe four hundred years, by the care of the ma- giftrates, who think fo excellent a joke can- not be too often repeated. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 361 LETTER XXXIX. Strafbourg. J^O THING can form a finer contraft with the mountains of Switzerland than the plains of Alface. From Bafil to Strafbourg, is a continued, well cultivated plain, as flat almoft as a bowling-green* We faw great quantities of tobacco hang- ing at the peafants doors, as we came along, this herb being plentifully cultivated in thefe fields. W e have paffed fome days very agreeably in this town. One can fcarcely be at a lofs for good company and amufement, in a place where there is a numerous French garrifon. Marechal Contades refides here at prefent, as commander of the troops, and governor of the province. , He lives 7 *Q 3 6z VIEW OF SOCIETY AND in a magnificent manner. The Englifh who happen to pafs this way, as well as the officers of the garrifon, have great reafon to praife his hofpitality and politenefs. After dining at his houfe, with feveral Englifh gentlemen, he invited the com- pany to his box at the playhoufe. Vol- taire's Enfant Prodigue was a&ed ; and for the Petite Piece, le Francois a Londres* Our nation is a little bantered, as you know, in the laft. The eyes of the fpec- tators were frequently turned towards the Marechal's box, to obferve how we bore the raillery. We clapped heartily, and fhowed the mo ft perfedt good-humour. There was indeed no reafon to do other- wife, The fatire is genteel, and not too fevere; and reparation is made for the li- berties taken; for in the fame piece, all manner of juftice is done to the real goocj qualities belonging to the Englifh national character* Aa MANNERS IN FRANCE, tic. 363 An old French officer, who was in the next box to us, feemed uneafy, and hurt at the peals of laughter which burft from the audience at fome particular paffages : he touched my fhoulder, and aflured me that no nation was more refpe£ted in France than the Englifti;— adding, 4 Hanc veniam damus, petimufque viciffim/ It were to be wifhed that French cha- racters, when brought on the Englifh ftage, had been always treated with as little fe- verity, and with equal juftice; and not fo often facrificed to the illiberal and abfurd prejudices of the vulgar. I have feen the greater number of the re- giments perform their exercife feparately, and there has been one general field-day fmce I came hither. The French troops are infinitely better clothed, and in all refpe&s better appointed than they were during the laft war. For this reformation, I am told 6 they 364. VIEW OF SOCIETY AND they are obliged to the Due de Choifeul, who, though now in difgrace, ftill retains many friends in the army. There are, befides the French, two Ger- man regiments in this garrifon. Thefe ad- mit of the difcipline of the cane upon every flight occafion, which is never permitted among the £ rench troops. Notwithftand- ing their being fo plentifully provided with thofe fevere flappers to roufe their attention, I could not perceive that the German regi- ments went through their exercife with more precifion or alertnefs than the French; and any difference would, in my opinion, be dearly purchafed at the price of treating one foldier like a fpaniel. Perhaps what improves the hardy and phlegmatic German, would have a contrary effe£t on the more delicate and lively French- man; as the fame feverity which is requifite to train a pointer, would render a greyhound good for nothing. After MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 363 After all, I queftion very much whether this fhocking cuftom is abfolutely neceflary in the armies of any nation; for, let our martinets fay what they pleafe, there is furely fome difference between men and dogs. With refped to the French, I am con- ■vinced that great feverity would break their fpirit, and impair that fire and impetuofity in attack, for which they have been diftin- guifhed, and which makes French troops more formidable than any other quality they polfefs. I muft own I was highly pleafed with the eafy, familiar air, and appearance of good will, with which the French officers in ge- neral fpeak to the common foldiers. — This, I am told, does not diminifh the refpedfc and obedience which foldiers owe to their fupe- riors, or that degree of fubordination which military difcipline exa&s, On the con- tracyv 3 66 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND tary, it is aflerted, that to thefe properties, which the French poflefs in common with other foldiers, they join a kind of grateful attachment and affedion. In fome fervices, the behaviour of the officers to the private foldiers is fo morofe, fevere, and unrelenting, that a man might be led to believe that one of their principal enjoyments was to render the lives of the common men as miferable as poflible. If a certain degree of gentlenefs does no harm in the great articles of obedience and fubordination, it is furely worth while to pay fome attention to the feelings of fo large a proportion of mankind, as are by modern policy neceffitated to follow a military life. To put their happinefs entirely out of the queftion, in the government of the armies of which they form infinitely the major part, is rather hard treatment of creatures who are of the fame fpecies, employed in the fame MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 367 fame caufe, and expofed to tire fame dangers with their officers. When I began this, I intended to have told you a few things about Strafbourg, in- ftead of which I have been led out of my way by French and German foldiers. — Di- greffing is a trick to which I am very fub- je£fc, and rather than not be indulged in it> I would throw away my pen altogether. The D— of H- arrived here exa&ly at the time he propofed* 368 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Letter xl. Stralbourg. ^Jp HE cathedral of Strafbourg is a very fine building, and never fails to at- trad the attention of ftrangers. Our Gothic anceftors, like the Greeks and Romans, built for pofterity. Their ideas in architecture, though different from thofe of the Grecian artifts, were vail, fublime, and generous, far fuperior to the felfifh fnugnefs of modern tafte, which is generally con- fined to one or two generations; the plans of our anceftors with a more extenfive bene- volence embrace diftant ages. Many Go- thic buildings ftill habitable evince this, and ought to infpire fentiments of gratitude to thofe who have not grudged fuch labour and MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 369 and expence for the accommodation of their remote pofterity. The number and magnitude of Gothic churches, in the different countries of Eu- rope, form a prefumptiori, that the clergy were not devoid of public fpirit in thofe days ; for if the powerful ecclefiaftics had then been entirely actuated by motives of felf-intereft, they would have turned the exceffive influence which they had acquired over the minds cf their fellow-citizens, to purpofes more immediately advantageous to themfelves 5 inftead of encouraging them to raife magnificent churches for the ufe of the public, they might have preached it up as ftill more meritorious to build fine houfes and palaces for the immediate fervants and ambafladors of God. —But we find very few ecclefiaflical palaces* in comparifon with the number of churches which ftill remaia for the public conveniency. Thisfufficiently £hows the injuftice of thofe indifcriminating Vol. L B b fatirifts, 37o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND fatirifts, who aflert that the clergy in all ages and countries have difplayed a fpirit equally proud and interefted. No fpecies of archite&ure is better con- trived for the dwelling of heavenly penfive contemplation, than the Gothic; it has a powerful tendency to fill the mind with fu- blime, folemn, and religious fentiments ; the antiquity of the Gothic churches con- tributes to increafe that veneration which their form and fize infpire. We naturally feel a refpeffc for a fabric into which we know that our forefathers have entered with reverence, and which has flood the af- faults of many centuries, and of a thoufand ftorms. That religious melancholy which ufually pofleffes the mind in large Gothic churches, is however confiderably coun- teracted by certain fatirical bas reliefs with which the pillars and cornices of this church of Strafbourg was originally ornamented.— The vices of monks are here expofed under the MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 371 the allegorical figure of hogs,afies, monkies, and foxes, which being drefled in monkifli habits, perform the mod venerable functions of religion. And for the edification of thofe who do not comprehend allegory, a monk in the robes of his order, is engraved on the pulpit in a mod indecent pofture, with a nun lying by him. Upon the whole, the cathedral of Stras- bourg is confidered by fdme people as the moft impious, and by others as the merriefl Gothic church in Chriftendom. I leave you to folve the problem as you pleafe.— As for me, I am a very unconcerned paflen- ger. I fay nothing of the great clock and its various movements. Though it was an ob- je£fc of admiration when firft conftru&ed, it h beheld with indifference by modern art- jfts. Bb2 I had 372 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND J had the curiofity to afcend the fteeple of this cathedra], which is reckoned one of the higheft in Europe, its height being 574 feet. You may eafily form an idea of the view from it, when I tell you it compre- hends the town of Strafbourg, theextenfive plains of Alface, with the Rhine flowing through them. Such views are not uncom- mon : They are always agreeable, but do not aftonifh and elevate the mind, like the wild, irregular, and fublime fcenes in Swit- zerland. One forenoon as I was fauntering through the ftreets with fome of our countrymen, we were informed that the mufic of fome of the regiments had been ordered to a par- ticular church, where the Count de , fon of Lewis the XVth by Madam de Pompadour, was expe&ed to be at mafs. — We all immediately went for the fake of the military mufic, and found a very numeroua and genteel company attending. After 1 having MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 373 having waited a confiderable time, it flrtick twelve, upon which the whole company retired, without hearing the mufic or mafs. — After mid-day the ceremony could not have been performed, although the Count had come. Something very important rauft have intervened to prevent a Frenchman, and one of his character for politenefs, from attending on fuch an occafion. There was however a murmur of difapprobation for this want of attention, and the prieft was not applauded, who had hazarded the fouls of a whole churchful of people, out of com- plaifance to one man ; for thofe who ima- gine that a mafs can fave fouls, mud admit that the want of it may be the caufe of damnation. Mr, H — y whifpered me, " In " England they would not have had half H the complaifance for the king himfelf, €t accompanied by all his legitimate chil- * c dren, that thefe people have fhewn to *' this fon of a w— e." To 374 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND To indemnify myfelf for this difappoint- ment, I went the fame afternoon with a French officer to hear a celebrated preacher. The fubjed of his difcourfe w T as the mife- rable fituation of men who were under the dominion of their paffions. — Do you wifli for a fample of his difcourfe ? — Here it is : -ts — - u A flave in the galleys (cried the d ? the 4 04 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND! the punifhment they deferved : — Many win-? dows were broken, and the chariots of a few members of parliament were befpat- tered with dirt by the mob. What are thefe frivolous diforders when compared to the gloomy regularity produced by defpp- tifm ; in which men are obliged to the moft painful circumfpedHon in all their a&ions ; are afraid to fpeak thqir fentiments on the moft common occurrences ; fufpicious of cherifhing government fpies in their houfe- hold fervants ; diftruftful of their own re- lations and moft intimate companions, and at all times expofed to the oppreffion of men in power, and to the infolence of their favourites ? — Nq cojifufioR, in my mind, can be more terrible than the ftern difci- pUned regularity and vaunted police of arbi- trary governments, where every heart is de- prefled by fear, where mankind dare not a flume their natural characters, where the free fpirit muft crouch to the flave in office, where genius muft reprefs her efFufions, or, like MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 405 like the Egyptian worfhippers, offer them in facrifice to the calves of power j and where the human mind, always in {hackles, flirinks from every generous effort. Dd 3 4o6 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XLV. Mentsr* E left Manheim five or fix days ago. It is very eafy travelling through this part of Germany, the roads being perfectly good, and the country a continued plain* From Bafil to within a few miles of Mentz, the polling road does not make even the moft gentle afcent ; a vaft length of coun- try to be all along a perfect level. By the great numbers of Monks and Friars, of all colours and conditions, that are to be met near this city, we were ap- prifed of our entrance into an ecclefiaftical ftate, while the plump perfons and rofy complexions of thefe Fathers fufficiently proved, that they did not live in the fertile land of Rheniflx for nothing. 7 However Manners in France, & c . 407 However good Chriftians they might be, many of them had much the appearance of paying occafional homage to the ancient heathen deity Bacchus, without being re- ftrained in their worfliip like the foldiers on the parade at Manheim. — One of them in particular appeared to have jufl: arifen from his devotion.— He moved along in the moft unconcerned manner imaginable, without obferving any dired courfe, or re- garding whether he went to the right hand or to the left. He muttered to himfelf as he went — Does he repeat his pater- nofter ? faid L— I rather imagine he prays from Horace, replied the D — — ■ Quo me, Bacche, rapis mi Plenum ? Quse nemora, aut quos agor in fpecus Velox mente nova ?— — On both fides of the Rhine the ground here begins to become hilly and irregular, D d 4 forming 4 c8 | VIEW OF SOCIETY AND forming banks finely expofed to the fun. Here the beft Rhenifh wine is produced, and even a very fmall portion of thefe exuberant banks is of confiderable value. A chain of well-inhabited villages runs along from Mentz, by Bacharach, all the way to Co- blentz, where the Rhine is joined by the Mofelle. Bacharach is faid to derive its name from an altar of Bacchus (Bacchi Ara) fuppofed to have been ere&ed by the Romans in gratitude for the quantity and quality of the wine produced in the neighbourhood. A little before we entered Mentz, we paffed by the Favorita, a beautiful palace belonging to the Ele£tor, fituated where the Rhine is joined by the Maine. Mentz is finely fituated, built in an irregular manner, and mod plentifully pro- vided with churches. The cathedral is but a gloomy fabric. In this there is what they MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 409 they call a treafury, which contains a number of clumfy jewels, fome relics, and a mighty rich wardrobe of priefts veil- ments. There are fome troops in this capital, but I do not think the officers have that fmart prefumptuous air which generally accompanies men of their profeffion. They feem confcious that the clergy are their mailers ; and, I have a notion, are a little out of countenance on that account. The ftreets fwarm with ecclefiaftics, fome of them in fine coaches, and attended by a great number of fervants. I remarked aifo many genteel airy abbes; who, one could eafily fee, were the moft fashionable people, and give the ton at this place. Though it is moft evident that in this electorate the clergy have taken exceeding good care of themfelves; yet, in juftice to them, 4 io VIEW OF SOCIETY AND them, it muft be acknowledged, that the people alfo feem to be in an eafy fituation. The peafantry appear to be in a ftate of far greater abundance than thofe of France, or even thofe in the Eledtor of Manheim's dominions. I have fome cPffire to fee an ecclefiaftical court, and would willingly vifit this of Mentz; but the D — of H , who feems to have no exceffive fondnefs for any court, fays, a court of clergymen muft be more difmal and tedious than any other, and I fear will not be prevailed on to appear at this ; in which cafe we fhall leave this place to-morrow morning early, without further ceremony* MANNERS IN FRANCE, Ice. 4 u LETTER XLVI. Frankfort on the Maine. TIT E have been here two weeks.— To * y form a proper judgment of the ge- nius and manners of any nation, it is ne- ceffary to live familiarly with the inhabitants for a confiderable time; but a fmaller degree of obfervation will fuffice to give a pretty juft idea of the nature of its government. The chilling efFe&s of defpotic oppreffion, or the benign influence of freedom and commerce, ftrike the eye of the mod care- lefs traveller. The ftreets of Frankfort are fpacious and well-paved ; the houfes ftately, clean, and convenient j the fhops well furnifhed ; the drefs, the numbers, the air, and general manners 4 i2 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND' manners of the inhabitants, fufficiently fhow, without other information, that there is no little defpot within their walls, to impoverifli them in fupport of his gran- deur, and to put every adion of their lives* every movement of their bodies, under re- ftraint by his caprice. The houfes are of brick, but have a better appearance than brick houfes in ge- neral, owing chiefly to their being covered with a kind of reddiflx ftucco, which is come into ufe here of late, and, it is be- lieved, will render the buildings more durable. The fronts of many of thejfineft are alfo adorned with bas reliefs, of white ftucco, in imitation of marble. Thefe white ornaments, on the red ground, form too ftrong a contraft, and do not pleafe an eye fond of fimplicity. But the Germans, in general, have a tafte for fhowy orna- ment, in their drefs, furniture, and houfes. Frankfort is a free imperial city, having a fmall MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 413 fmali territory belonging to it, and is go- verned by its own magiftracy. All religions are tolerated here, under certain reftridions ; but Lutheranifm is the eflablifhed faith, as the magiftrates are of that communion. The principal church is in the pofleffion of the Roman Catholics, but no public proceffion of the hoft is permitted through the ftreets. All the ceremonies of their religion are confjned to the houfes of indi- viduals, or performed within the walls of this church. In it there is a chapel, to which the emperor is conduded immedi- ately after his eledion, in order to be crowned by the Eledor of Mentz. The Jews have a fynagogue in this city, where they perform their religious rites ; but the Calvinifts have never been allowed any public houfe of worfhip within the ter- 2 ritory 4H VIEW OF SOCIETY AND ritory of Frankfort. They attend divine fervice at a place called Bockenheim in the county of Hanau, where they have built a church. This is but unkind treatment ; and it feems, at firft fight, a little extraordinary, that Martin Luther fhould fhow more in- dulgence to his old enemy Lord Peter, and even to Judas Ifcariot himfelf, than to his fellow- reformer John Calvin. Though Frankfort is thought a fine town, and the effe£t produced by the whole is magnificent, yet there are no buildings in particular worthy of attention. It is expe&ed, however, that all ftrangers fhould vifit the town-houfe, and fee the chamber where the Emperor is ele&ed. And it would be reckoned a great want of curiofity, not to fee the famous golden bull which is kept there with the utmoft care. A fight of this cofts a golden ducat ; a Ef- ficient MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 415 ficient price for a glance of an old manu- fcript, which not one perfon in a hundred . can read, and ftill fewer can underftand. A countryman of ours, who expe&ed more amufement for his money, com- plained loudly of this as an impofition, and on hearing a German talk of the high price which every thing bore in England, he re- torted on him in thefe words : — II n'y a rien en Angleterre fi cher que votre taureau d'or a Frankfort, There is a cuftom obferved here, which , I fhall mention on account of its Angularity, though I enquired in vain for its origin. Two women appear every day at noon on the battlements of the principal fleeple* and play fome very folemn airs with trum- pets. This mufic is accompanied by vocal pfaimody, performed by four or five men, who always attend the female trumpeters for that purpofe. The 416 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The people here have a violent tafte for pfalm-finging. There are a confiderable number of men and boys, who have this for their only profeffion. They are engaged by fome families to officiate two or three times a week in the morning, before the mafter and millrefs of the family get out of bed, When any perfon in tolerable circum- ftances dies, a band of thefe fweet fingers affemble in the ftreets before the houfe, and chant an hour every day to the corpfe, till it is interred. The fame band accom- panies the funeral, finging hymns all the way. Funerals are conducted with an uncom- mon degree of folemnity in this town A man clothed in a black cloak, and carr- rying a crucifix, at the end of a long pole, leads the proceffion : — A great number of hired mourners in the fame drefs, and each with MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 417 Vvhh a lemon in his hand, march after him: — Then come the fingers, followed by the corpfe in a hearfe ; and laftly, the relations in mourning coaches* The crucifix is carried in this manner at all funerals, whether the deceafed has died a Roman Catholic, a Lutheran, or a Cal- vinift. That this cuftom fhould be fol- lowed by the two latter, furprifed me a good deal. I fhould have imagined that the Calvinifts in particular, whatever they did with the lemons, would never have been able to digeft the crucifix. There is £ very confiderable number of Calvinifts in this placej it is generally thought they are the moft induftrious. They unqueftionably are the richeft part of the inhabitants. This may be partly owing to a circumftance that fame of them confider as a hardfhip- their being ex- cluded from any fhare in the government Vol. I. E e of 4 i8 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND of the city* — Many of the Calvinift fami- lies are defcendents of French Proteftants, who left their country at the revocation of the edid of Mantz. There are fome villages near Frankfort confiding entirely of French refugees ; who, deferting their country at the fame time, have fettled here in a clufter. Their de- fcendents fpeak French in their common converfation, and retain many of their ori- ginal cuftoms to this hour. Two or three families now living at Frankfort are of Engliih origin. Their predeceffors fled firft to Holland, during the perfecutions in the reign of Mary, and being afterwards driven out of that country by the cruelty of the Duke of Alva, they at length found an afylum for themfelves, and their pofterity, in this free imperial city* The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 419 The number of Jews in Frankfort is prodigious, confidering one difmal incon- venience they are fubjedted to, being obliged to live all together in a (Ingle ftreet built up at one ends — There is a large gate at the other, which is regularly fhut at a certain hour of the night, after which no Jews dare appear in the ftreets; but the whole herd muft remain cooped and crowded together, like fo many black cat- tle, till morning. As this ftreet is nar- row, the room allotted for each family fmail, and as the children of Ifrael were never remarkable for their cleanlinefs, and always noted for breeding, the Jews quar- ter, you will believe, is not the fweetefi: part of the town. I fcarce think they could have been worfe lodged in the land of Egypt. They have feveral times made offer of considerable fums to the magiftrates of Frankfort for liberty to build or purchafe E e 2 ana- 4 20 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND another flreet for their accommodation j but all fuch propofals have hitherto been rejected. The Jews in Frankfort are obliged to fetch water when a fire happens in any part of the city, and the magiftrates in re- turn permit them to choofe judges out of their own body for deciding difputes among themfelves; but if either party refufes to fubmit to this, an appeal is open to the magiftrates. They muft unqueftionably enjoy fome great advantages by the trade they carry on, to compenfate for fuch inconveniencies. During the day-time they are allowed the liberty of walking all over the town; a privilege which they improve with equal affiduity and addrefs. They attack you in the ftreet, ply at the gate of your lodgings, and even glide into your apartments, offer- ing to fupply you with every commodity you MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 42* you can have occafioa for: And if you happen to pafs by the entrance of their ftreet, they intreat your cuftom with the violence and vociferation of fo many Thames watermen. I was twice at their fynagogue. There is nothing magnificent in their worfhip; but much apparent zeal and fervour. I faw one of their mo ft important rites per- formed on two children. It was impoffible not to feel companion for the poor infants, thus cruelly initiated into a community, who had formerly the misfortune of being defpifed by the Heathens, and now are execrated by all pious Chriftians. 422 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND LETTER XLVII. Frankfort on the Maine. will be furprifed at our remaining fo long at a place where there is no court, and few of thofe entertainments which allure and retain travellers. The truth is, the D — - of H- feems fond of this place; and as for my own part, I have formed an acquaintance with fome very worthy people here, whofe friendfhip I fhall take every occafion to cultivate. Society here is divided into Nobleffe and the Bourgeois. The firft confifts of fome noble families from various parts of Ger- many, who have chofen Frankfort for their refidence, and a few original citizens of Frankfort, but who have now obtained the rank of nobility. The citizens who con* neQ; MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c« 423 neck themfelves with ftrangers, have made their fortunes by commerce, which feme of them ftill follow. There is a public aflembly for the nobi- iity once a week, at which they drink tea, converfe, or play at cards from fix to ten. On the other nights, the fame company meet alternately at each other's houfes, and pafs the evening in the fame manner. None of the Bourgeois families are invited to thefe parties ; but they have affemblies of the fame kind among themfelves, and often entertain their friends, and the ftrangers with whom they are acquainted, in a very hofpitable manner at their tables. The noblemen who refide in Frankfort, and the nobility of all degrees, and of every nation, who acci- dentally pafs through it, cheerfully accept of thefe invitations to dine with the citizens, but none of the German ladies of quality conde- fcend fo far. While their fathers, hufbands, and brothers* are entertained at a Bourgeois E e 4 table, 424 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND table, they chufe rather to dine at home by themfelvesj and they certainly judge wifely^ if they prefer a fpare diet to good cheer. The diftincHon of ranks is o.bferved m Germany, with all the fcrupulous precifion that a matter of that importance deferves. There is a public concert in this place fup- ported by fubfcription. One would imaging that the fubfcribers would take their feats as they entered the room, that thofe who camp earlieft would have their choice. — No fuch matter. — The two firft rows are kept for the ladies of quality, and the wives and daugh- ters of the citizens muft be contented to fit behind, let them come at what hour, and pay what money they pleafe. — After all, this is not fo bad as in an affembly of no- bility, where commons are not permitted to fit, even in the lobby, whatever price they may have paid for their feat in par- liament. Since MANNERS IN FRANCE, Sec. 424 Since we arrived, the theatre has been opened for the winter, by a troop of Ger- man comedians. I was there the firft night; previous to the play, there was a kind of al- legorical prologue, intended as a compliment to the magiftrates of Frankfort. This was performed by Juftice, Wifdom, and Plenty, each of whom appeared in perfon, with the ufual attributes. The laft was very pro- perly perfonated by a large fat woman, big with child* As to the two former, I hope, for the fake of the good people of Frankfort, that they are better reprefented in the town- council, than they were on the ftage. This prologue was concluded by a long harangue pronounced by the plumpeft Apollo, I dare venture to fay, that ever appeared in the heavens above, or on the earth beneath. After this the play began, which was a German tranllation of the Englifh play of George Barnwell, with confiderable altera- tions. 426 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND tions. Barnwell is reprefented as an impru- dent young man; but he does not mur- der his uncle, as in the Englifh play, or com- mit any grofs crime; the German tranflator therefore, inftead of hanging, only marries him at the end of the piece. Mod of the plays reprefented on the Ger- man ftage, are tranflations from the Englifh or French ; for Germany, fo fertile in wri- ters in divinity, jurifprudence, medicine, chymiftry, and other parts of natural philo- fophy, has produced few poets till of late. Jam nova progenies coclo demittitur alto, and the German mufe is now admired all over Europe. Her beauties are felt and ap- plauded by men of genius, even through the medium of a tranflation, which is a ftrong proof of her original energy. It mull, how- ever, be a great difcouragement to German poetry in general, and to the dramatic in particular, that the French language prevails 3 in MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 427 in all the courts, and that French plays are reprefented there in preference to German. The native language of the country is treated like a vulgar and provincial diale£t, while the French is cultivated as the only proper language for people of fafhion. — Children of the firfl families are inftru&ed in French, before they acquire their mother- tongue, and pains are taken to keep them ignorant of this, that it may not hurt their pronunciation of the other, I have met with people who confidered it as an accomplifh- ment to be unable to exprefs themfelves in the language of their country, and who have pretended to be more ignorant, in this particular, than they were in reality. I have been affured by many, who under- fiand the German language well, that it is nervous, copious, moft expreffive, and ca-> pable of all the graces of poetry. The truth of this appears by the works of feveral late writers, 428 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND writers, who have endeavoured to check this unnatural prejudice in their countrymen, and to reftore the language of their anceftors to its native honours.— But what are the efforts of good fenfe, tafte, and genius, in oppofition to fafhion, and the influence of courts I Among the winter amufements of this place, traineau parties may be reckoned, Thefe can take place in the time of fro ft only, and when there is a confiderable quan- tity of fnow upon the ground. I had an, opportunity of feeing a very fplendid enter- tainment of this kind lately, which was given by fome young gentlemen to an equal number of ladies. A traineau is a machine in the ffiape of a hone, lion, fwanj or in that of a griffin, unicorn, or fome other fanciful form, with- out wheels ; but made below like a fledge, for the conveniency of Aiding over the fnow. 5 Some Manners in France, &c. Some are gilded, and otherwife ornamented, according to the whim of the proprietor. — A pole Hands up from one fide, to which an enfign or flag is faftened, which waves over the heads of thofe placed on the machine* The lady, wrapped in fur, fits before, and the gentleman Hands behind on a board made for that purpofe. The whole is drawn by two horfes, which are either condu&ed by a poftillion, or driven by the gentleman. — The horfes are gaudily ornamented, and have bells hanging from, the trappings which cover them. This party confifled of about thirty traineaus, each attended by two or three fervants on horfeback with flambeaux ; for this amufement was taken when it began to grow dark.— One traineau took the lead;— the reft followed at a convenient diftance in a line, and drove for two or three hours through the principal flreets and fquares of Frankfort. 43 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Frankfort- — The horfes go at a brifk trot of canter ; the motion of the traineau is eafy and agreeable ; the bells, enfigns, and torches, make a very gay and fhowy ap- pearance, which feemed to be much relilhed by the parties immediately concerned, and admired by the fpe&ators. A few days after this exhibition, as we were preparing to fet out for Hanau in a traineau, Mr. S — , brother to Lord S — , arrived at the inn. Though he had travelled for two days and nights, with- out having been in bed, he was fo little fatigued, that he went along with us. Ha- nau is fome leagues diftant from Frankfort. We had a full proof of the fmooth move- ment of the traineau, which, in the time of froft, and when there is a proper quan- tity of fnow on the ground, is certainly the moft delightful way of travelling that can poffibly be imagined. Hanau MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 43 r Hanau is the refidence of the Hereditary Prince of Hefle Caffel. As we entered the town we met thePrincefs, who is fifter-in- law to the King of Denmark. She, with fome of the ladies of the court, was taking the air alfo in a traineau. Befides the troops of Hanau, two regi- ments of Hanoverians are there at prefent. The Hereditary Prince is not on the beft terms with his father. He lives here, how- ever, in a ftate of independency, poffeffed of the revenues of this country, which is guaranteed to him by the Kings of Britain, Denmark, and Pruflia : but there is no in- tercourfe between this little court and that of Hefle Caffel. After dinner we returned to Frankfort. The D — prevailed with Mr. S — to remain a longer time at Frankfort than he had in- tended. He is a fenfible young man of fpirit arid ambition. His grandfather, the old Earl 432 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Earl of D — , endeavours to feduce him into holy orders, promifing him a living of 3000 L a year, which is in the gift of the family* This you will acknowledge to be a tempta- tion which few younger brothers could with- ftand. Nature, however, feems to have deftined this young gentleman for another line in life. My own opinion is, he would rather have the command of a troop of dra- goons, than be promoted to the See of Canterbury. Manners in France, &c 433 LETTER XLVllt Frankfort. gOME of the nobility Who refide in this city, take every opportunity of pointing out the eftential difference that there is, and the diftin&ions that ought to be made, be- tween their families and thofe of the Bour- geois, who, though they have, by cdmmerce or fome profelfion equally ignoble, attained great wealth, which enables thefn to live in a ftile of magnificence unbecoming their tank j yet their noble neighbours infinuate* that they always retain a vulgarity of fenti- ment and manners, unknown to thofe whofe blood has flowed pure through feveral ge- nerations, unmixed with that puddle which ftagnates in the veins of plebeians* Vol. I, F f The 434 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND The D — of H — does not feem to have ftudied natural philofophy with accuracy fufficient to enable him to obferve this dis- tinction. He mingles in the focieties of the citizens, with as much eafe and alacrity, as in thofe of the nobility, dining with the one, and drinking coffee with the other, in the moft impartial manner, and between the two he contrives to amufe himfelf tolerably well. The two families with which we are in the greateft degree of intimacy, are thofe of Monf. de Barkhaufe, and Monf. P. Gogle. The former is a principal perfon in the ma- giftracy, a man of learning and worth. His lady is of a noble family in the dukedom of Brunfwic, a woman of admirable good fenfe and many accomplifhments. She is well acquainted with Englifh and French literature. The French language (lie fpeaks like a native, and though fhe cannot converfe in MANNERS IN FRANCE, fee. 435 in Englidi without difficulty, fhe under- ftands and relifties the works of fonte of our beft authors. Mr. Gogle has travelled over the greiteft part of Europe, and is equally acquainted with men and books. He has made a plen- tiful fortune by commerce, and lives in a very agreeable and hofpitable manner, In thefe two houfes we occafionally meet with the beft company of both the ciafifes of fociety in this place,dttd in one or other w hen there is no public aflembl f we generally pafs the afternoon. — The former part of the day (a thaw having lately diflblved the fnow) we often pafs in jaunts to the environs of this place, which are very beautiful. As the D — of H- and I were riding one day along the banks of the Maine, near the village of Heix, which is in the territo- ries of the Ele&or of Mentz, we obferved a F f a building 436 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND building which feemed to be the refidence of fome prince, or bifhop at leaft. We were furprifed we never had heard it fpoken of, as it had a more magnificent appearance than any modern building we had feen fince our arrival in Germany. We rode up, and upon entering it, found that the apartments within, though not laid out in the beft tafte, feemed to correfpond, in point of expence, with the external appearance We were informed by the workmen, who were employed in finishing thefe apart- ments, that this palace belonged to a tobac- conift in Frankfort, where he ftill kept fhop, and had accumulated a prodigious fortune by making and felling fnuff. Near to the principal houfe, there is another great building intended for a work- houfe, in which tobacco is to be manu- factured, with many apartments for the workmen, and vaulted cellars in which the various MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 437 various kinds of fnuff are to be kept moift, till fent for inland fale to Frankfort, or fhipped on the Maine for foreign markets. The owner informed us,there were exa&ly three hundred rooms in both buildings, and the greater number of thefe belonged to the dwelling-houfe. We did not chufe to puzzle the man by difficult queftions, and therefore refrained from enquiring, what ufe he in- tended to make of fuch an amazing number of rooms, which feemed rather contrived as barracks for two or three thovifand foldiers ? than any other purpofe. On our return to town, we were informed that this perfon, who is not a native of Frankfort, though he has been many years eftablifhed there, had applied to the magi- ftrates for liberty to purchafe a certain fpot of ground, on which he propofed to build a dwelling-houfe, &c. which cannot be done by any but citizens, without the confent of F f 3 the 438 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND the council. This being refufed, he bought a little piece of land in the territory of Mentz, immediately beyond that of Frank- fort, and on the banks of the Maine ; and being highly piqued by the refufal he had met with from the magiftrates, he had reared a building greatly larger and more extenfive than was neceffary, or than he at firft had intended, in the full perfuafion that the remorfe of the magiftrates would be in proportion to the fize of this fabric. The tobacconift has already expended fifty thoufand pounds on this temple of vengeance, and his wrath againft the ma- giftrates feems to be yet unappeafed — for he Hill layifhes his money with a rancour againft thefe unfortunate men, that is very unbecoming a Chriftian. The inhabitant? of Frankfort, while they acknowledge the imprudence of the magiftrates, do not ap- plaud the wifdom of their antagonift, in ivhofe brain they aflert there rnuft be fome apartmenta MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 439 apartments as empty as any in the vaft ftru&ure he is building. Another day his Grace and I rode to Bergen, a fmall village which has been ren- dered eminent by the attempt made there by Prince Ferdinand on the French army in the year 1759* We were accompanied by the Meflrs. de Leffener, two gentlemen, now retired from the fervice, and living at Frankfort, who had been in the adfcion, one a Captain in the Hanoverian army, the other of the fame rank in the French. During the winter of that memorable year, you may remember that the French, with more policy than juftice, had feized upon this neutral city, and eftabiifhed their head-quarters here. This was attended by great advantages, fecuring to them the courfe qf the Maine and Upper Rhine, by which F f 4 they 44 o VIEW OF SOCIETY AND they received fupplies from Strafbourg, and all the intermediate cities. Prince Ferdinand having formed the de- fign of driving them from this advantageous fituation, before they could be reinforced, fjiiddenly aflembled his army, which was cantoned about Munfter, and after three days of forced marches, came in fight of the French army, at that time commanded by the Duke de Broglio, who, having received intelligence of the Prince's fcheme, had made a very judicious difpofttiopo On the forenoon of the 13th of April, the Prince began his attack on the right wing of the French army, which occupied the vil- lage pf Bergen.- — This was renewed with great vivacity three feveral times. The Prince of Ifembourg, and about 1500 of the Allies, fell in the a&ion, which was prolpnged till the evening ; Prince Ferdir pand t|ien ^etermipipg to draw off hi§ troops. MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 441 troops, made fuch a difpofition as perfuaded the enemy he intended a general attack next morning — and by this means he accom- pliflied his retreat in the night, without being harafled by the French, I have heard officers of great merit aflert, that nothing could be more judicioufly planned and executed, than this enterprife; the only one of importance, however, in which that great General failed during the whole war. By this misfortune the allied army were reduced to great difficulties, and the progrefs of the French, with the continued retreat of the Allies, fpread fuch an alarm over the Electorate of Hanover, that many individuals fent their moft valuable effects toStade, from whence they might be conveyed to Eng- land. — The affairs of the Allies were foon after re-eftablifhed by the decifive vidory of |Vlinden ? which raifed the military character af 442 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND of Prince Ferdinand higher than ever ; though officers of penetration, who were at both a&ions, are ftill of opinion, that his talents were to the full as confpicuous at Bergen, where he was repulfed, as at the glorious field of Minden, by which Hanover and Brunfwick were preferved, and the French obliged to abandon alraoft all Weftphalia, MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 443 LETTER XLIX. Frankfort, J Returned a few days fince from Darmr ftadt, having accompanied the D — of H on a vifit which he made to that court. The reigning Prince of HefTe Darmftadt not being there, we were direded to pay our firft vifit to the Princefs Maximilian, his aunt. — She invited us the fame evening to play at cards and fup with her, — There were about ten people at table. — The Prin- cefs was gay, affable, and talkative.— The D — confeiTed he never had palled an even- ing fo agreeably with an old woman in his life. Next 444 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND Next morning we went to the parade, which is an obje£t of great attention at this place. The Prince has a mod enthufiaftic paffion for military manoeuvres and evolu- tions. — Drilling and exercifing his foldiers are his chief amufements, and almoft his fole employment. That he may enjoy this in all kinds of weather, and at every feafon of the year* he has built a room fufficiently capacious to admit 1500 men, to perform their exercife in it all together. This room is accommodated with fixteen floves, by which it may be kept at the exadt degrees of temperature which fuits his High- nefs's conftitution. — On the morning that we were prefent, there was only the ordinary guard, confiding of three hundred men, who having performed their exercifes, and marched for an hour up and down this fpa- clous Gymnafium, were divided into parties and detached to their refpective pofls. The MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 443 The Darmftadt foldiers are tall, tolerably clothed, and above all things remarkably- well powdered. They go through their manoeuvres with that dexterity which may be expe&ed of men who are continually employed in the fame a&ion, under the eye of their prince, who is an admirable judge, and fevere critic in this part of the military art. There is no regular fortification round this town; but a very high ftone-wall, which is not intended to prevent an enemy from entering, being by no means adequate to fuch a purpofe ; but merely defigned to hin- der the garrifon from deferting, to which they are exceedingly inclined ; thefe poor men taking no delight in the warlike amufe- ments which conftitute the fupreme joy of their fovereign. Centinels are placed at fmall diftances all round the wall, who are obliged to be ex- ceedingly 446 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND ceedingly alert. One foldier gives the words all is well in German, to his neighbour on the right, who immediately calls the fame to the centinel beyond him, and fo it goes round till the firft foldier receives the words from the left, which he tranfmits to the right as formerly, and fo the call cir- culates without any intermiflion through the whole night. Every other part of garrifon duty is per* formed with equal exa&nefs, and all ne« gle&s as feverely punifhed as if an enemy were at the gates, The men are feldom more than two nights out of three in bed. This, with the attention requifite to keep their clothes and accoutrements clean, is very hard duty^ efpecially at prefent, when the frofl: is un- commonly keen, and the ground covered %ith fnow* Therd MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 447 There is a fmall body of cavalry at Darmftadt juft now. They are drefled in buff coats, and magnificently accoutred. — Thefe are the horfe-guards of the prince.— Few as they are, I never faw fo many men together of fuch a height in my life, none of them being under fix Englifh feet three inches high, and feveral of them confider- ably above that enormous ftature. The Prince of He(Te Darmftadt for- merly kept a greater number of troops : At prefent his whole army does not ex- ceed five thoufand men. But as the con- duct of princes, however judicious it may be, feldom pafies uncenfured, there are people who blame him for entertaining even this number. They declare, that this prince's finances, being in very great diforder, cannot fupport this eftablifti- ment; which, though fmall, may be counted high, confiderine the extent of o o his dominions* They infift alfo upon the t \q[$ 9 448 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND lofs, which agriculture and manufactures mull fuftain, by having the ftouteft meft taken away from thefe necefTary employ- iiients, and their ftrength exhaufted in ufe-* lefs parade* For thefe rigid cenfors have the affurance to afTert> that an army of five thoufand men, though burdenfome to the country, is not fufficient to defend it ; that the number is by far too great for amufement, and infinitely too fmall for any manner of tife. The fame day, we dined with the Priii- €efs Maximilian, and in the afternoon were prefented to Prince George's family* He is brother to the reigning Prince. He happened to be indifpofed ; but his princefs received the D-^— with the ut~ moft politenefs. Their two youngeft fons and three daughters were at fupper. The former are ftill very young j the latter are well- looking? MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 445 looking, remarkably accomplifhed, and do much credit to the great pains their mother has beftowed on their education* Next morning we were invited to break* faft, by the Barori Riedefal, at a pleafant country-houfe he has near Darmftadt.— » His G— went with him, in a carriage b£ a very particular conftru&ion.. The Barori fat on a low feat next the horfes, and drove J the D — — in a higher place behind him. Each of thefe is made for one perfon only; but behind all, there was a wooden feat, in the fhape of a little horfe, on which two fervants were mounted. The ufual pofting- chaifes in this country hold fix perfons with eafe; and people even of the firfl rank generally have two or three fervants in the chaife with them. In point of oeconomy, thefe carriages are well imagined; and, in the time of froft, not inconvenient; for here travellers take fpecial care to fortify themfelves againfi: cold by cloaks lined Vol. I. G g with 450 VIEW OF SOCIETY AND with fur. But when it rains hard, two of the company at leaft mull be drenched ; for the German chaifes are never intirely co- vered above. I went with Count Cullemberg in his coach. We paffed the forenoon very agree- ably at this houfe, which feems to be ad- vantageoufly fituated; but in its prefent fnowy drefs, one can no more judge of the natural complexion of the country, than of that of an a&refs new-painted for the ftage. We dined with Prince George, who was fufficiently recovered to be at table. He is a handfome man, of a foldier-like appear- ance, and has all the eafe and opennefs of the military character. His fecond fon, who had been abfent for fome weeks, arrived while we were at table. He is a fine young man, about eighteen years of age. It was pleafing to obferve the fatisfa&ion MANNERS IN FRANCE, &c. 45 t fatisfa&ion which this fmall incident dif- fufed over the faces of father, mother, and the whole family, which formed a groups worthy the pencil of Gieufe. Do not fufped that I am prejudiced in favour of this family, merely becaufe they belong to a prince. An appearance of domeftic happinefs is always agreeable f whether we find it in a palace or a cot- tage; and the fame fymptoms of good hu- mour, though they would not have fur- prifed me fo much, would have delighted me equally in the family of a peafant. END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.