ILAND)— Lancas- 
 niston, Keswick, 
 appleby, &c. 
 
 ITHUMBERLAN 
 Tynemouth, Alnwick, &c. 6 Maps and Plana. 
 
 LAKES (WESTMORLAND AND 
 
 , Furness Abbey, Ambleside, Kendal," 
 
 ere, CJlswater, Carlisle, Cockermoutb 
 ■ 
 
 -Doncaster, Hull, Selby, Be 1 
 
 RROGATE, BlPON, LEEDS, WAKEFIELD, 
 
 field, &c. ith Edition. Eemodelle( 
 
 Dlitheroe, Bolton, Blackburn, Wig an, 
 , Southport, Blackpool, &c. Map. 6s. 
 
 SHIRE— Grantham, Lincoln, Stamford, Sleafo 
 Sainsborough, Grimsby, Boston, Ac. New (2nd) Edit* 
 With Map and 3 Plans. 7*. 6d. 
 
 Bakewell, ChatsworTb, The Peak, Buxton, Hardwic: 
 Southwell, Mansfield, Retford, Burton, Belvo: 
 Wolverhampton, Lichfield, Walsall, Tamworth, 
 mostly on the scale of A inch to the mile. 98, 
 
 SHROPSHIRE AND CHESHIRE— Shrewsbury, 
 
 north, Oswestry, Chester, Crewe, Alderley, Stockport, Birkenhead. 
 nd Plans. I 6«. 
 
 WALES — Bangor, Carnarvon, Beaumaris, 
 
 Dolgelly, Cader Idris, Conway, &c. 5 Maps. 6a. 
 
 Snowdon, 
 
 5S — Monmouth, Llandaff, Merthyr, Vale of Neath. 
 
 Carmarthen, Tenby, Swansea, and the Wye, &c. Map. 6^t. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON AND RUTLAND— Northampton, Peterb< 
 Kettering, Market Hareorough, Oakham, Uppingham, Welli: 
 &c. With 4 Maps and Plans. 2nd Edition. Crown 8vo. 7«. 6d. 
 
 5 ASTERN COUNTIES (ESSEX, CAMBRIDGE, NO: 
 FOLK) — Chelmsford, Harwich, Colchester, Maldon, 
 Newmarket, Bury St. Edmunds, Ipswich, Woodbridge, 
 estoft, Norwich, Yarmouth, Cromer, See. 
 
 WARWICKSHIRE— Warwick, Kenilworth, Coventr 
 on-Avon, Birmingham, &o. 10 Maps and Plans. 6a, 
 
 WORCESTER AND HEREFORD — Leominster, Ross 
 Kidderminster, Dudley, Bromsgroye, Evesham. 5 Maps. 5*. 
 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE — Gloucester, Cheltenham, Tkwkks 
 Bristol, &c. 3 Maps and Plans. 6s. 
 
 HERTS, HUNTINGDON AND 
 Is. 6i. 
 
 Plans. 7a. 6 
 
 HAMSHIRE—Eton, 
 
 New Edition. Enti 
 
 tfield, Hun- 
 10 Maps and 
 
 NGHAM, 
 
y, Newbury, 
 don, Buck land, 
 and 2 Plans. I 
 
 LENHEIM, THE 
 
 TKR, DEVIZES, 
 h, &c. With 12 
 
 rest, Ports - 
 
 n Introductory 
 . 2«. U. 
 
 Glastonbury, 
 lans. 6s. 
 
 on, Reigate, 
 
 Chatham, &c. 
 
 ings, Lewes, 
 mile. Gs, 
 
 wlish, teign- 
 izard, Land's 
 
 ilea round the 
 
 for the use of 
 
 ASGOW, Dl'M- 
 Invehauay, Loch 
 veunes8, pekth, 
 
 RLAND, &C. Ne\C 
 s. Gd. 
 
 xford, Cork, 
 
 An entirely New 
 
 DON THROUGH 
 st, and Back by 
 Illustrated by a 
 
HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 IK 
 
 KENT. 
 
 FIFTH EDITION, 
 WITH MAPS AND PLANS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 1892. 
 
 WITH INDEX REVISED TO 
 1904. 
 
OXFORD 
 
 HORACE HART ? PRINTER TO THE UNIVERSITY 
 
PKEFACE TO THE FIFTH EDITION. 
 
 This Handbook for the County of Kent has been drawn 
 up from personal knowledge of the country, and from the 
 most recent information that could be obtained. 
 
 The present Edition has been carefully revised; but it is 
 obvious that the task of correcting up to date such a volume 
 as this, is a task of no common difficulty. 
 
 If, therefore, travellers or residents in the county who 
 happen to detect any errors or omissions in the book would 
 ^indly send notice of them to the Editor, care of Mr. Murray, 
 50 Albemarle Street, they would not only be conferring a 
 great favour upon him, but they would be rendering material 
 assistance to him in his endeavour to obtain a correct guide 
 for all corners of Old England. 
 
 The Editor gratefully thanks many personal friends, clergy 
 of the county, and others unknown, who have rendered him 
 very valuable aid in revising this Guide. 
 
 The numerous large scale maps, with which the Handbook 
 has been furnished, form a special feature of this edition, and 
 one which it is hoped will materially add to its practical 
 usefulness. 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 PAGE 
 
 ROUTES. 
 
 The names of places are printed in thick type only in those routes where the places 
 are described. 
 
 ROUTE PAGE 
 
 gate, by Chilham, Can- 
 terbury, and Minster . 210 
 
 8 London to Tunbridge and 
 Tunbridge Wells direct, 
 by Chislehurst and 
 Sevenoaks [Knole, 
 Chevening, Ightham] . 228 
 
 8a London to Sevenoaks, by 
 Eynsford, Shoreham 
 and Otford . . . 240 
 8b Sevenoaks to Wester- 
 ham, by Chipstead, 
 Sundridge,and Brasted 242 
 
 9 London to Maidstone, by 
 Farningham . . . 244 
 
 10 Maidstone to Ashford and 
 Canterbury, byHolling- 
 bourne, Lenham and 
 Charing . . . 244 
 
 11 The Weald : Lamber- 
 hurst, Goudhurst, 
 Bedgebury, Cranbrook, 
 Tenterden . . . 250 
 
 12 Ashford to Faversham, by 
 Badlesmere . . . 259 
 
 13 The Isle of Sheppey : 
 Queenborough, Sheer- 
 ness, Minster, East- 
 church .... 260 
 
 1 The Thames — London to 
 
 Margate, by Greenwich, 
 Woolwich Dock, and 
 Gravesend ... 3 
 
 2 London to Dover, by Tun- 
 
 bridge, Ashford [Hythe 
 and Sandgate], Folke- 
 stone. The Cinque 
 Ports ... 24 
 
 2a Paddock Wood to Maid- 
 stone, by Watering- 
 bury . . * .61 
 
 3 London to Canterbury 
 
 and Dover, by Beeken- 
 ham, Bromley, St. 
 Mary Cray, Rochester 
 [Cobham], Chatham, 
 and Faversham . . 64 
 
 4 London to Deal, by Can- 
 
 terbury, Sandwich 
 [BichboroughandAsh] 158 
 
 5 London to Ramsgate, by 
 
 Whitstable,Herne Bay, 
 Westgate, and Broad- 
 stairs . . . .172 
 
 6 London to Maidstone, by 
 
 Lewisham, Blackheath 
 [Eltham], Charlton, 
 Woolwich, Gravesend, 
 Strood, and Aylesford . 177 
 
 7 Ashford to Ramsgate, 
 
 Broadstairs and Mar- 
 
 14 Coast of Kent : Margate 
 to Rye [Romney Marsh, 
 Dungeness] . . . 268 
 , . * . . • .279 
 
 Index , . .' . . . ■ . \ «. - . 
 
 LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS. 
 
 Dover and the S.E. division of Kent 50 
 
 Ground-plan of Rochester Cathedral 83 
 
 Canterbury, the N.E. division of Kent, and the Isle of Thanet . .114 
 Ground-plan of Canterbury Cathedral . . . ' . . .119 
 
 Chatham and Maidstone 197 
 
 Westerham, Sevenoaks, Edenbridge, and Tunbridge .... 228 
 
 Tunbridge Wells and Neighbourhood 240 
 
 Map of Kent in pocket at the end. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Pa?e 
 
 I. Extent and Character . . [i] 
 II. History [2] 
 
 III. Antiquities . . . . [6] 
 
 IV. Products — Cherries and Hops [10] 
 V. Trade and Manufactures . [14] 
 
 VI. Geology and Phj^sical Geo- 
 graphy .... [15] 
 
 Page 
 
 VII. Railway Systems . . . [17] 
 
 VIII. Picture Galleries & Museums [18] 
 IX. Best Centres for Excursions . [18] 
 
 Skeleton Tours .... [19] 
 Places of Interest . . . . [21] 
 An Artistic and Antiquarian 
 
 Tour [22] 
 
 I. Extent and Character. 
 
 The county of Kent, the extreme south-eastern corner of England, 
 contains, according to the last issue of Kelly's Directory, 995,392 acres. 
 From east to west (from the North Foreland to London) it 6 expatiat- 
 eth itself,' in Fuller's words, into 64 miles ; from north to south (North 
 Foreland to Dungeness) it ' expandeth not above ' 38 miles. Eight 
 English counties exceed it in size. At the census of 1891 it contained 
 a population of 394,131 males, and 412,156 females ; total 806,287, 
 being an increase of 96,994 since 1881 ; not including 367,076 in 
 the Metropolitan area. 
 
 Kent, continues Fuller, 'differeth not more from other shires 
 than from itself, such the variety thereof. In some parts of it 
 health and wealth are at many miles' distance, which in other parts are 
 reconciled to live under the same roof— I mean, abide in one place 
 together.' The entire county, the geological features of which are 
 strongly marked, is divided, according to local experience, into three 
 very distinct districts :— (1) That of ' health without wealth,' embracing 
 the higher parts of the Downs, which stretch in a long line across the 
 county and form what is called the ' backbone of Kent ' : (2) that of 
 ' wealth without health ' ; this consists of Romney Marsh and of 
 the marshes along the Medway, the Swale, and the Stour, where the 
 pasturage is deep and rich, but where, in spite of the better drainage, 
 which has put an end to many evils of the past, the inhabitants are 
 not yet free from marsh fevers : and (3) that in which ' health and 
 wealth are reconciled to live together,' covering by far the greater 
 part of the county, but best and richest in the valley of the Medway 
 from Maidstone to Tunbridge, and in parts of the country about 
 Canterbury. Each of these districts assists in producing the diversified 
 
 [Kent.] b 
 
[2] 
 
 GENEEAL INFORMATION. 
 
 scenery and the varied riches that still justify the encomium pro- 
 nounced on the county in the Polyolbion of Michael Drayton : — 
 
 ' O famous Kent ! 
 What county hath this isle that can compare with thee ? 
 That hath within thyself as much as thou can'st wish : 
 Thy rabbits, venison, fruits, thy sorts of fowl and fish ; 
 As what with strength comports, thy hay, thy corn, thy wood, — 
 Nor anything doth want that anywhere is good.' 
 
 II. History. 
 
 Notwithstanding, however, the beauty of its scenery, it may be 
 said of Kent, as of Italy, that it is a country in which the memory 
 and the imagination see far more than the eye. It has been the 
 scene of some of the most important events in English history ; and 
 if it be true that 'to have seen the place where a great event 
 happened— to have seen the picture, the statue, the tomb of an 
 illustrious man, is the next thing to being present at the event in 
 person — to seeing the scene with our own eyes' {Stanley), there is 
 no part of England which will more richly repay the attention of the 
 tourist who is something more than a mere sightseer. The position 
 of Kent, at the narrowest part of the Channel, brought its inhabitants, 
 from the earliest times, into closer connection with those on the 
 opposite mainland, and made it the scene of three important landings, 
 each of them a landmark in the history of England : that of Csesar 
 (b.c. 55), which united the 'remote Britain' with the great world of 
 Rome and prepared it for the changes which were to follow ; that of 
 the first Saxons (generally dated a.d. 449), which introduced the 
 Teutonic element, and laid the foundations of ' this happy breed of 
 men, this earth, this England ' ; possibly the scene of the landing 
 of the earliest preachers of Christianity in the island, certainly that 
 of Augustine (a.d. 597), who reintroduced Christianity, and from the 
 results of whose mission ' has, by degrees, arisen the whole constitu- 
 tion of Church and State in England which now binds together the 
 whole British empire.' The landing of Caesar has usually been fixed 
 at Deal (Rte. 4) ; and notwithstanding the interesting paper of Sir G. 
 B. Airy (Archceologia, xxxiv.), who has endeavoured to support the 
 claims of Pevensey in Sussex, or the more recent speculations of Mr. 
 Hussey (Arch. Cant. vol. i.) and Mr. Lewin (Invasion of Britain Toy 
 Julius Ccesar), who favour Bulverhithe and Romney Marsh, it is 
 probable that the Kentish coast between Walmer and Thanet will 
 still be regarded as the actual scene of the invasion — a view strongly 
 advocated by the late Emperor Napoleon III. in his Uistoire de Jules 
 Cesar. The historical character of the second landing — that of 
 Hengist and Horsa, which, according to the Saxon Chronicle, took 
 place in the year 449 at Ypwine's fleot (no doubt Ebbsfleet in Thanet) 
 — is considered as more than doubtful by Lappenberg (Anglo-Sax. 
 Hist), by Kemble (Saxons in England), and by Wright (Celt, Roman, 
 and Saxon), but has found a champion of no ordinary ability in Dr. 
 Guest, whose essay on the Early English Settlements in South Britain, 
 published in the Proceedings of the Archaeological Institute (Salisbury 
 
HISTORY. 
 
 [3] 
 
 volume), is entitled to the fullest consideration. It is at least certain 
 that some of the earliest settlements of the Saxons in Britain were 
 made in the Isle of Thanet and on the adjacent mainland, although 
 the exact period at which, and the manner in which, they were 
 effected, must possibly remain undecided. 
 
 Some of the most important Roman remains in the island still 
 attest the occupation of Kent by the ' terrarum domini ' during a 
 period of four centuries (a.d. 43-448), but no historical events of 
 consequence are recorded as having occurred here, although it is 
 probable that during the later years of Roman rule, and especially 
 under the famous Carausius (287-293), the coasts and strongholds of 
 Kent were among the most frequented and important in Roman 
 Britain. It was at this period that the great fortresses of the Saxon 
 shore (Richborough,Rte.4 ; Reculver, Rte. 5 ; Lymne,Rte.2) were either 
 first constructed or were materially strengthened, so as to afford some 
 protection against the invading Saxons, whose ships were already 
 hovering about the white cliffs and green marshes of ' Kent-land.' 
 
 For elaborate discussions on the character of their early settlements, 
 and of the religion they brought with them, traces of which may still be 
 found throughout the county, the reader should have recourse to 
 Kemble's Saxons in England (vol. i. and Appendix). Like the Romans, the 
 Saxon settlers retained the ancient name of the province — a word, no 
 doubt, of Celtic origin — which is explained by Dr. Guest as the 
 'Caint' (Brit.) or 'open country,' lying along the sea-shore and the 
 Thames, in opposition to the great forest (the Andred's Wood) which 
 covered the interior. Kent seems to have been at first divided into 
 a number of small independent districts or ' kingdoms,' which were 
 gradually united under a single ruler. This ' kingdom of Kent ' con- 
 tinued to exist, with varying fortunes and with a varying inland 
 border, until about the year 823. Baldred, the last King of Kent, was 
 driven from his throne by Egbert, King of the West Saxons, and the 
 first so-called ' Monarch of all Britain.' The earlier kings of Kent 
 had been the most powerful princes of Saxon England. For notices 
 of the baptism of Ethelbert by Augustine see Rte. 7 (the Isle of 
 Thanet) and Rte. 3 (Canterbury). For all that is known on the 
 subject, however, the reader should here be referred to Dean Stanley's 
 deeply interesting paper on the ' Landing of Augustine ' {Hist. Memorials 
 of Canterbury) ; to Kemble's Saxons in England, vol. ii. ch. 8 ; to Dean 
 Milman's Hist, of Latin Christianity, vol. i. ; and to Dean Hook's Lives 
 of the Archbishops of Canterbury ; and to Canon Routledge's Hist, of 
 St. Martin's Church at Canterbury. 
 
 A remarkable tradition (see Sivanscombe, Rte. 6) asserts that as the 
 Conqueror was advancing into Kent after the battle of Hastings he 
 was encountered by certain of the inhabitants, who repeated the 
 stratagem of Birnam Wood. They advanced, it is said, under a cover 
 of moving boughs, and presented so formidable a front as to obstruct 
 Wiliiam and eventually compel him to confirm to their land the 
 territorial privileges or immunities which in some measure it still 
 enjoys. It is possible that the continued existence of the custom of 
 * gavelkind ' in Kent gave rise to this tradition, which is referred to by 
 no chronicler until long after the time of the Conquest. By the 
 
 b 2 
 
GENEKAL INFOEMATION. 
 
 custom of gavelkind — certainly of Saxon origin and still prevailing in 
 many parts of Kent — the lands were divided equally among the male 
 children at their father's death, the youngest keeping the ' hearth/ 
 The bodies of Kentish men were said to be free, and they might give 
 and sell their lands without licence (which feudal holders could not 
 do), ' saving unto their lords the rent and services due ' (gafol, A.S. 
 rent, hence the name of the custom). They might sell their land at 
 15 years of age, and it could not be escheated (forfeited) for felony. 
 Hence the old Kentish rhyme — 
 
 ' The father to the bough, 
 And the son to the plough ' ; 
 
 meaning that, although the father had been hung, the son might still 
 till his ground in peace. This especial privilege seems always to have 
 been peculiar to Kent ; the others prevailed to a very large extent in 
 other parts of England in different customary tenures. The custom of 
 partition according to this system of gavelkind exists in the immediate 
 vicinity of London, and gives its name to the manor or township of 
 Kentish Town. 
 
 The extent of land still remaining subject to this custom in Kent is 
 uncertain. The lands of numerous proprietors were disgavelled by 
 Acts of Parliament between the reigns of Henry VII. and James L, and 
 much gavelkind land belonging to the Church had, at an earlier period, 
 been changed by special grant from the Crown into holdings by 
 military tenure or knight's service. In spite of these changes, 
 however, it is asserted that as much land is at present subject to the 
 control of the custom as there was before the disgavelling statutes 
 were made (Sandy's Consuetudines Cant ice). 
 
 Kent, which during the half-century before the Conquest had formed 
 one of the great Saxon earldoms, and had been ruled by the house of 
 Godwin (whose name has become connected with that of the Goodwin 
 sands, and is preserved in ' Goodnes-tone ' near Wingham, and 
 ' Goodnestone ' near Faversham, continued to give its name to a 
 succession of great Norman lords after its inhabitants had proffered 
 their fealty to the ' alien king.' Odo of Bayeux was the first Norman 
 earl ; and his immediate successors were William of Ypres (founder 
 of Boxley Abbey, Rte. 6, and the tower at Rye, Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 15) 
 and Hubert de Burgh, — the ' gentle Hubert ' of Shakespeare's King 
 John, whose life was one long romance, and whose resolute defence of 
 Dover Castle against Louis of France saved the country, in all proba- 
 bility, from the accession of a French dynasty. The earldom of Kent 
 subsequently passed to Edmund of Woodstock, second son of Edward I , 
 and then to his three children, the last of whom, Joan Plantagenet, 
 4 the Fair Maid of Kent,' was wife of the Black Prince and mother of 
 Richard II. She had been already married to Sir Thomas Holland, 
 whose descendants succeeded as Earls of Kent until the extinction of 
 the male line in the 9th year of Henry IV. William Neville, second 
 son of the first Neville Earl of Westmoreland, was created Earl of 
 Kent by Edward IV., and, on his death without issue, Edmund Grey, 
 Lord Hastings, was similarly honoured, and in his house the earldom 
 continued until the death, in 1740, of Henry Grey, 13th earl, who had 
 
HISTORY. 
 
 [5] 
 
 been created Duke of Kent by Queen Anne in 1710. The titles of 
 Earl and Duke of Kent then became extinct, but the Dukedom was 
 revived for the fourth son of George III., the father of her present 
 Majesty. 
 
 The great event in Kentish history after the Conquest is the murder 
 of Becket in his own cathedral at Canterbury on Tuesday, Dec. 29th, 
 1 170. For the minutest details respecting it the reader must con- 
 sult Dean Stanley's Historical Memorials of Cantei-lury, or Canon 
 Robertson's Becket. The shrine of the archbishop rose into equal 
 importance with the most venerated spots on the continent of Europe, 
 and long strings of pilgrims — 
 
 ' The holy blisful martyr for to seeke ' — 
 
 landed at every Kentish port, and found their way along the solitary 
 hill-crests, and through the wild forest country which then stretched 
 away from Canterbury towards London. The reputation of the great 
 shrine of St. Thomas materially affected the fortunes not only of Can- 
 terbury but of all Kent ; and although Dover and Sandwich, before the 
 existence of the shrine as well as after its fall, were and continued to be 
 the principal landing-places from Picardy and Flanders, their days of 
 highest prosperity were those in which shiploads of ordinary pilgrims 
 were constantly arriving at them, and when — a more important but 
 frequent event— great personages (emperors of the East and West, 
 kings of France or earls of Flanders) landed at them with their trains, 
 on their way to perform their vows before the famous shrine at Canter- 
 bury. The harbours of Kent - Sandwich, Hythe, and Romney, which 
 were the Cinque Port successors of the castles presided over by the 
 Count of the Saxon Shore (see Rte. 2)— became gradually silted up by 
 the action of the tide, and partly perhaps owing to an unskilful system 
 of drainage and embankment. Dover alone, by the middle of the 17th 
 century, remained free and accessible ; and, from its position at the 
 narrowest part of the Straits, has continued the favourite landing- 
 place from the Continent. The branch of the ancient Watling Street 
 which extends from Dover to Canterbury, and thence by Faversham 
 and Rochester to London, was the road followed by nearly all travellers 
 from the days of the Romans, until the formation of the South-East era 
 Railway diverted them into another track. The North Kent line 
 and the more recently constructed London, Chatham, and Dover Rail- 
 way, however, follow much of the line of the ancient road ; and the 
 tourist, as he flies through that 'paradise of hops and high production,' 
 may compare the scene as it now exists with the following description 
 by Sorbiere in 1663 : — 
 
 ' Kent appears to me to be a very fine and fruitful country, especially 
 in apples and cherries, and the trees, which are planted in rows every- 
 where, make, as it were, a continued train of gardens. The country 
 mounts up into little hills, and the valleys are beautified with an 
 eternal verdure; and the grass here seemed to me to be finer and of a 
 better colour than in other places, and therefore 'tis fitter to make those 
 parterres, some of which are so even that they bowl upon them as easily 
 as on a great billiard-table. And as this is the usual diversion of gentle- 
 men in the country, they have thick rolling-stones to keep the green 
 
[6] 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 smooth. All the country is full of parks, which yield a delightful 
 prospect, and where you may see large herds of deer ; but their gardens 
 have no other ornaments than these greens ; and the best castles 
 (chateaux) you meet with are not to be compared with the least of 
 above four thousand pleasure-houses you have about Paris. However, 
 it must be confessed, the eye cannot but be much delighted with the 
 natural and even neglected beauty of the country, and the English have 
 reason to value it. For when Clement VI. gave the Fortunate Islands 
 to Lewis of Bavaria's son, and that they beat the drum to raise men in 
 Italy for that expedition, the English ambassador who was then at 
 Rome was presently alarmed and left the place, as supposing this expe- 
 dition could be designed against no other country but his. It's so 
 covered with trees that it looks like a forest when you view it from an 
 eminence, by reason of the orchards and quickset hedges which enclose 
 the arable lands and meadows.' — Voyage to England. 
 
 Admiration of bright English turf, and glorification of ' nous autres,' 
 are characteristics of most French travellers in England. It must be 
 admitted, however, that few country houses of importance are within 
 sight on the Watling Street— the road which Sorbiere followed, and the 
 only part of Kent which he saw. But he might have admired what 
 could then have been rivalled in no part of Europe— the wealth and 
 substantial comforts of the Kentish farms : — 
 
 l A squire of Wales, a knight of Cales, 
 
 And a laird of the North Countrie — 
 A yeoman of Kent, with half a year's rent, 
 Will buy them all three.' 
 
 III. Antiquities. 
 
 The usual divisions may be adopted in noticing the antiquities of 
 Kent : Primaeval or British ; Roman ; Saxon ; and Mediaeval, — em- 
 bracing ecclesiastical, military, and domestic buildings. 
 
 In remains of the first or British period Kent is not remarkably rich, 
 although there are a few objects in the county of considerable interest. 
 The most important is Kit's Coity House (Rte. 6), a large cromlech on 
 the hill above Aylesford. This is, no doubt, a sepulchral structure 
 of the same character as those common in more thoroughly Celtic dis- 
 tricts ; but it derives an especial interest from the local traditions 
 which connect it with the first battles of the invading Saxons. There 
 is reason to believe that it stands in the midst of a great necropolis of 
 the British period, since the surrounding hills are covered with graves; 
 and parallel rows of stones, resembling what have elsewhere been called 
 ' Dracontia,' or serpent temples, have been traced across the Medway 
 in the direction of Addington and Ryarsh, where are some large earthen 
 mounds and so-called 'Druidical ' circles, well worth attention. For 
 ample notices of all these remains see Rte. 6. 
 
 Camps or earthworks, which may possibly be of the British period, 
 are found in different parts of the county. None of these, however, are 
 so remarkable as the deep excavations occurring in various parts of the 
 chalk district, but principally along the banks of the Thames and 
 
ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 Medway. See, for detailed accounts of them, East Tilbury (Hie. i), Cray- 
 ford and Dartford (Rte. 6), and Chislehurst (Rte. 8). They are com- 
 monly known as 'Dean or Dene Holes,' and are traditionally said to 
 have been made for purposes of concealment — probably for concealing 
 corn— during the period of the Danish ravages. That they may have 
 been used in this manner is very probable (see East Tilbury, Rte. i), 
 but it is certain that chalk was largely exported from Britain during 
 the Roman period (and possibly before it), and it seems to be now 
 generally admitted that the excavations are those of the ancient 
 quarriers. The British chalk was conveyed from the Thames to Zea- 
 land as the staple, whence it passed to the interior of the Continent. 
 On the coasts of Zealand, according to Keyssler, numerous altars to 
 Nehalennia, the patroness of the chalk-workers, have been found 
 lodged in the sand, some of which bear votive inscriptions from dealers 
 in British chalk. (Antiq. Septenlrionales.) 
 
 Among other connecting links with the British period maybe men- 
 tioned the kistvaens discovered in Gorsley Wood, Bishopsbourne 
 (Rte. 3), and the site of the British village at Ramsgate (Rte. 7). 
 
 Of the Roman period Kent can show some of the most interesting 
 relics in Britain. The county was evidently rich in villas, ranged on 
 either side of the Watling Street; and the walls of many of its ancient 
 churches still bear witness to the wealth of Roman brick and tile which 
 the first Christian builders found at their disposal. The valley of the 
 Medway (Rte. 6) was another great centre of Roman life, and there is 
 scarcely a field or a hill- side throughout the whole distance between 
 Rochester and Maidstone which does not contain some traces of ancient 
 abodes and civilization. No rich pavements, however, such as those 
 of Sussex and Gloucestershire, have as yet been discovered in Kent, 
 although so wealthy and beautiful a province can hardly have been 
 without villas as stately as those at Bignor or at Woodchester. By 
 sorae fortunate chance, the plough may yet reveal their remains. 
 
 Extensive potteries of the Roman period existed at Upchurch (Rte. 3) 
 and at Dymchnrch in Romney Marsh (Rte. 14). An examination of the 
 site of the first of these will amply repay the archaeologist. Great quan- 
 tities of pottery are still to be found in the Upchurch marshes, including 
 many perfect vessels. The manufacture here was of a coarse kind of 
 ware, although the forms are always good. 
 
 The grand relics of imperial Rome, however, which still exist in 
 Kent, and which are at least as impressive as any that remain else- 
 where, are those of the strong fortresses, anciently under the jurisdiction 
 of the Count of the Saxon Shore, — Richborough, the ancient Rutupise 
 (Rte. 4) ; Reculver, or Regulbium (Rte. 5) ; and Lymne, or Portus 
 Lemanis (Rte. 2). Every archaeologist who visits this part of England 
 should make a point of seeing these remains; and the ordinary tourist 
 will find, at all events, the mouldering walls of Richborough full of 
 interest. The best (and a very excellent) book on the subject is TJie 
 Antiquities of Richborough, Reculver, and Lymne, by Charles Roach 
 Smith : London, J. R. Smith, 1850. See also the Transactions of the 
 Archceologia Cantiana, specially vol. xviii. 
 
 Besides these remains, the Pharos at Dover (Rte. 2) may here be 
 mentioned, and the remains of St. Pancras, and Roman remains at 
 
GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 St. Martin's, Canterbury (Rte. 3), and Stone near Faversham 
 (Me. 3). 
 
 The Saxon relics, in which Kent has been, and is, especially rich, are 
 for the most part hidden beneath the soil. The graves of the earliest 
 Teutonic colonists were first explored, on any large scale, by the Rev. 
 Bryan Faussett, of Heppington, near Canterbury, toward the end of the 
 last century ; and his researches were subsequently followed with 
 most successful results by the late Mr. Rolfe of Sandwich, Mr. T. Wright, 
 and Mr. C. R. Smith, and have been continued from time to time by 
 the county Archaeological Society : see various papers in its Trans- 
 actions. Unhappily, neither Kent nor even London can boast of 
 retaining the most interesting collections of personal ornaments, 
 weapons, glass, and pottery, which have been brought to light from 
 these ' narrow houses ' of the dead, for the museums both of Mr. 
 Faussett and of Mr. Rolfe are now at Liverpool. A few Saxon relics, 
 however, of much interest, may be seen in the Museum at Canterbury 
 (Rte. 3), and a laiger number, the result of systematic excavations at 
 Sarre and Patrixbourne, are in the possession of the Kent Archaeological 
 Society at Maidstone. 
 
 The sites of the principal Anglo-Saxon cemeteries in Kent -hitherto 
 discovered are the hill of Osengal, near Ramsgate (Rte. 7), Gilton, in 
 the parish of Ash (Rte. 4), Sarre, near the Grove Ferry station (Rte. 4), 
 Patrixbourne, near Canterbury (Rte. 3), Darenth and Littlebrook near 
 Dartford. Numerous barrows, however, in various parts of the county 
 have been opened with successful results ; and it is probable that 
 many valuable ' hoards ' still remain to reward the zeal of the archaeo- 
 logist. Mr. C. R. Smith has suggested that a consideration of the 
 early state of the localities where the richest remains have been found 
 may lead to important historical inferences. ' It is important to be 
 observed, that we do not discover these rich remains in and about the 
 ancient towns. Canterbury, the metropolis of Kent, reveals Roman 
 remains only; but a few miles from it are evidences of regal splendour 
 in the graves at Kingston. Gilton, now a small village, must have 
 been the residence of persons of high position and of affluence ; and 
 so with Sarre, Minster, and numerous other places, now of little 
 account. The inference to be drawn is, that the Roman population 
 remained undisturbed in the towns, and that the Saxon chiefs estab- 
 lished themselves in the rural districts, surrounded by their dependants, 
 colonizing the country far and wide, implanting their own laws and 
 institutions, while availing themselves of much of Roman civilization.' 
 — C. R. Smith, Archosologia Cantiana. 
 
 Among Saxon remains of early date may be mentioned those of the 
 church which preceded Rochester Cathedral (Rte. 3). 
 
 In the riches of mediaeval architecture Kent need not fear a com- 
 parison with any other county. The following are the churches which 
 will best repay the attention of the tourist : — 
 
 Saxon— Rte. 2: Lymmge ; part of the church in Dover Castle. 
 Lyminge Church is especially interesting, as having been partly built 
 with the materials of a Roman edifice. Rte. 6 : Swanscombe. We may 
 perhaps add Rte. 2 : Cheriton. 
 
 Norman— Rte. 2 : St. Mary, Dover ; Paddlesworth. Rte. 3 : Bap- 
 
ANTIQUITIES. 
 
 child ; Barfreston ; Darenth ; Davington ; Patrixbourne ; Rochester 
 (nave). Rte. 7: Minster (nave). Rte. 14: St. Margaret at Cliff; 
 Sutton. All of these are interesting ; but Darenth, St. Margaret at 
 Cliff, Patrixbourne, and especially Barfreston, are very remarkable ex- 
 amples. We may perhaps add Mailing Abbey and Tower ; Trottes- 
 cliffe Church ; Padcllesworth, ruined church (near Snodland), Rte. 6. 
 
 Transition Norman. — Rte. 3 : Canterbury Cathedral (choir, very fine). 
 
 Early English. — Rte. 2 : Folkestone ; Hythe. Rte. 3 : Bridge ; St. 
 Martin, Canterbury ; Faversham ; Horton Kirby ; Rochester Cathedral 
 (transepts and choir). Rte. 4 : Ash ; Great Mongeham ; Northbourne ; 
 St. Clement, Sandwich (the tower, rebuilt, was Norm.). Rte. 5 : Gra- 
 veney. Rte. 6 : Chalk. Rte. 7 : Minster (transepts and choir) ; 
 St. Nicholas at Wade. Rte. 10: Lenham. Rte. 12: West well (fine 
 E. E. glass). 
 
 Decorated— Hie. 1 : Stone, near Greenhithe. Rte. 2 : Hever. 
 Rte. 3 : Barham. Rte. 5 : Herne (Perp. portions). Rte. 7 : Chilham ; 
 Chartham. Rte. 11 : Sandhurst. Of these churches, Stone and 
 Chartham deserve the most particular attention. 
 
 Perpendicular.— Rte. 2 : Aldington ; Ashford ; Nettlested (very fine 
 Perp. glass). Rte. 3: Bishopsbourne ; Canterbury Cathedral (nave). 
 Rte. 4 : Wingham. Rte. 6 : All Saints, Maidstone. Rte. 8 : Chisle- 
 hurst ; Sevenoaks. Rte. 1 1 : Cranbrook ; Tenterden. 
 
 Of other ecclesiastical buildings and remains, the most noticeable 
 are : — Rte. 2 : Horton Priory, where are some Trans -Norm, fragments ; 
 the remains of a Preceptory of Knights Hospitallers at Swingfield, — 
 Trans.-Norm. ; St. Martin's Priory, Dover, E. E. and interesting. Rte. 
 3 : The remains of the Priory of Christ Church, Canterbury, — Norman, 
 including a staircase which is probably unique ; the gateway and re- 
 mains of St. Augustine's Abbey, Canterbury, — Early Dec. ; remains of 
 the Dominican Convent, Canterbury,— E. E. Rte. 6 : Mailing Abbey, 
 chiefly E. E. The Maison Dieu, Dover (Rte. 2). 
 
 The principal relics of military architecture in Kent are :— Rte. 2 : 
 Hever, — Perp.; Tunbridge, — Dec; Westenhanger,— Dec. ; Saltwood, — 
 Perp. ; and Dover Castle, — Norm, to Perp., one of the most important 
 and interesting remains in England. Rte. 3 : Canterbury Castle, — 
 Norm. ; Rochester Castle, — Norm, and very fine. Rte. 6 : Allington 
 Castle, near Maidstone, — for the most part Perp. ; Leeds Castle,— Dec. 
 and Perp., and of high interest. Rte. 7 : Keep of Chilham,— Norm. 
 
 It is worthy of note how many of the castles and castellated man- 
 sions are built on the low ground and surrounded by waters collected 
 by damming up some stream. In a country where there were no pin- 
 nacles of inaccessible rocks, water and the low ground furnished 
 greater securities than lofty sites. Examples of this occur in Leeds, 
 Hever, Tunbridge, Groomb ridge, and the Mote at Ightham. 
 , Of domestic architecture, the Kentish illustrations, although numer- 
 ous, are perhaps not so fine as those supplied by some other counties. 
 Many of them, however, possess an historical interest which can hardly 
 be exceeded. The principal are :— Rte. 2 : Penshurst, the old seat of 
 the Sidneys,— of various dates, and perhaps the most interesting house 
 in the county. Rte. 3 : Cobham, near Rochester,— partly Elizabethan, 
 partly the work of Inigo Jones : the house contains a superb collection 
 
[10] 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 of pictures. The hall of Eltham Palace,— temp. Edw. IV. Rte. 7 : 
 Chilham, — temp. Jas. I., and fine. Rte. 8 : Knole, near Sevenoaks, the 
 earliest portions of which are of the 15th cent., but the great mass of 
 the first part of the 17th, — the house retains its old furniture and 
 pictures, and is of very unusual interest ; Sore Place, dating about 
 1300, very curious and well deserving notice ; the Mote, dating partly 
 from the reign of Edw. 11.^ in some respects an unique example. 
 Rte. 10 : Battle Hall, Leeds,— a small building of the 14th cent. ; East 
 Sutton Place, — Elizabethan ; and Boughton Place, of the same period. 
 
 The Kent Archaeological Society was founded in 1858, mainly by 
 the exertions of its first honorary secretary, the late Rev. Lambert B. 
 Larking. Several volumes of Transactions, entitled Archceologia Can- 
 tiana, have been printed, and contain much valuable material for the 
 history and antiquities of the county ; the Society is flourishing, and 
 publishes frequent accounts of its transactions. 
 
 IV. Products — Cherries and Hops. 
 
 Among the ' natural commodities ' of Kent, as old Fuller calls them, 
 two require especial mention here — fruit and hops. Mr. C. R. Smith 
 has shown, in his Coll. Ant., that vineyards were once common in 
 Kent and other southern counties, and he has proved, as a practical 
 horticulturist, that the grape may still be matured in the open air if 
 treated in the ancient mode. Apple-orchards are still numerous, and 
 would be much more so were his proposal adopted of planting dwarf or 
 half-standard trees along the railway lines (Scarcity of Home-grown 
 Fruits in Great Britain, with Remedial Suggestions : a Letter to Joseph 
 Mayer, F.S.A., 1863) ; but the specially Kentish fruit is the cherry. 
 
 It is probable that one species of the cherry (Prunus avium) was 
 indigenous in this country, although varieties of P. cerasus, a native of 
 the forests on the southern slopes of the Caucasus, may have been in- 
 troduced by the Romans at an early period. The cherry was, at all 
 events, one of the fruits cultivated in Kent throughout the middle 
 ages, although the extent of cultivation had much diminished, and 
 the quality of the fruit much deteriorated, when Richard Hareys, 
 fruiterer to Henry VIII., introduced fresh grafts and varieties from 
 Flanders, and planted about 105 acres at Teynham, near Faversham 
 (see Rte. 3), from which cherry orchard much of Kent was afterwards 
 supplied. ' I have read/ says Fuller, ' that one of the orchards of this 
 primitive plantation, consisting but of thirty acres, produced fruit of 
 one year sold for ioccZ. ... No English fruit is dearer than those at 
 first, cheaper at last, pleasanter at all times ; nor is it less wholesome 
 than delicious. And it is much that, of so many feeding so freely on 
 them, so few are found to surfeit.' Accidents do occur, however, as 
 in the unhappy case recorded on a tombstone in Plumstead church- 
 yard 
 
 ' Weep not for me, my parents dear, 
 There is no witness wanted here ; 
 The hammer of death was given to me 
 For eating the cherries off the tree.' 
 
CHERRIES AND HOPS. 
 
 [ii] 
 
 According to Busino, Venetian ambassador in the reign of James I., 
 it was a favourite amusement in the Kentish gardens to try who could 
 eat most cherries. On one occasion a young woman managed to dis- 
 pose of 20 lbs., beating her opponent by 2|lbs. A severe illness was 
 the not unnatural result, — indeed, the ' hammer of death ' might have 
 been reasonably expected. 
 
 Busino finds fault with the English cherries, which are, however, 
 praised by Fynes Morison. The varieties now grown in Kent probably 
 exceed in number and in flavour any to be met with elsewhere. The 
 chief orchards are in the parishes on the borders of the Thames, the 
 Darenth, and the Medway ; and in early spring, when 
 
 ' Sweet is the air with the budding haws ; and the valley stretching for 
 miles below 
 
 Is white with blossoming cherry-trees, as if just covered with lightest snow ' 
 
 — the beauty of the scene recalls, though it can hardly rival, that of 
 the apple orchards of Devonshire. 
 
 By far the most important ' natural commodity ' of Kent, however, 
 is the hop (Humidus lupulus), which, first regularly cultivated in this 
 country toward the beginning of the 1 6th cent., has long since become 
 one of the principal English crops. The plant is indigenous through- 
 out Europe and the north of Asia, and was certainly used by the Celts 
 and Teutons in the preparation of their beer. It was unknown to both 
 Greeks and Romans (De Candolle, Geographic Botanique). At what 
 period it first began to be cultivated is uncertain, although it has been 
 regularly grown and cared for in Central Europe for several centuries. 
 It is referred to in the Promptorium Parvulorum, compiled about 
 1440, as used in beer; but (although a native plant — its British name 
 was llewig y blaidd, 1 bane of the wolf) the hop was not extensively 
 grown in England until the early part of the reign of Henry VIII., 
 when the best varieties were introduced from the Low Countries ; and 
 by the latter end of the century Reynolde Scot, a Kentishman, and 
 author of the Discovery of 'Witchcraft , was able to speak of Kent, in his 
 Perfite Platforme of a Hoppe Garden, as the great county of hops. 
 4 Heresy and hops,' it was said, ' came in together.' Beer was barley 
 flavoured with the hop : Ale was flavoured with other herbs. Thus 
 the old ballad entitled ' The Ex-ale-tation of Ale ' — 
 
 ' Eor now, so they say, beer bears it away, 
 
 The more is the pity, if right might prevail ; 
 For with this same beer came in heresy here — < 
 The old Catholic drink is a pot of good ale. 
 
 Their aleberries, cawdles, and possets each one, 
 And syllabubs made at the milking pail ; 
 
 Although they be many, beer comes not in any, 
 But all are composed with a pot of good ale.' 
 
 The system of cultivation has changed very little, and has been so 
 well described in Household Words, vol. vi., that we cannot do better 
 than appropriate that account. 
 
 There are about 60,000 acres of hop plantations in England, of 
 which 35,500 acres are in Kent. The greatest number of hops are 
 grown in the parishes of Barming, East Farleigh, and Hun ton, near 
 
[12] 
 
 GENEKAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Maidstone, where 'the luxuriance of hops is a puzzle to theoretical 
 agriculturists. "Though rich mould," says Bannister, " generally pro- 
 duces a larger growth of hops than other soils, there is one exception 
 to this rule, where the growth is frequently eighteen or twenty hun- 
 dred per acre. This is the neighbourhood of Maidstone, a kind of 
 slaty ground with an understratum of stone. There the bines run up 
 to the top of the longest poles, and the increase is equal to the most 
 fertile soil of any kind." ' Beside this neighbourhood, the country 
 between Faversham and Canterbury, and that bordering the South- 
 Eastern Railway between Tunbridge and Ashford, are the principal 
 Kentish hop districts ; but the hop gardens are scattered over the 
 entire county, and there are not many parishes, except in the marshes, 
 which are quite without them. 
 
 Wherever they are grown in England, hops are trained on poles, 
 which stand in groups of 2, 3, or 4, at a distance of about 6 ft. apart ; 
 and 3600 (costing from 60I. to gol.) are required for an acre of ground. 
 The female hop alone is cultivated ; the male, commonly called the 
 'blind,' hop being of no value ; 'although it is said that, if the male 
 hop were excluded from the garden, the flowers throughout the, ground 
 would be wanting in that yellow powder called the " farina " or " con- 
 dition," which is their chief value. For this reason, one male hop- 
 plant in every hundred groups is generally planted.' There are many 
 varieties of the cultivated hop. the best and most luxuriant of which 
 is known as ' Golcling's.' 
 
 No crop whatsoever is so precarious as that of the hop, and the 
 steadiest of growers is compelled to look on his business as a species 
 of gambling rather than as a legitimate branch of husbandry ; the 
 ordinary estimate is, two bad crops to one good one, which however 
 leaves a profit on the three. ' In the warm nights of early summer, 
 when the bine will grow an inch within an hour, fleas and fireblasts 
 threaten it. When the clusters hang so large and full that everybody 
 (but the wary) prophesies the crop will reach an enormous amount, 
 Egyptian plagues of green or long-winged flies, coming from no one 
 knows where, may settle on it, and in a single night turn flower and 
 leaf as black as if they had been half consumed by fire. " Honey-dew " 
 may fall upon it, and prove no less destructive. Red spiders, otter 
 moths, and the " vermin " which spring from their eggs, may any day 
 sit down, uninvited, to a banquet costing a couple of millions sterling 
 to the Kentish growers alone. Any cold autumn night, " when the 
 breath of winter comes from faraway," may blight them ; and, finally, 
 mould may suddenly eat up every vestige of flower while the hops are 
 waiting for the picker.' It was owing to this extreme precariousness 
 of the crop that the amount of duty annually declared by the Excise, 
 in respect of all the hops gathered throughout the country, until its 
 repeal in the year 1862, became as completely a subject for wagers as 
 the probable winner of the Derby or the St. Leger. This gambling 
 extended to all classes in the hop districts. Almost every tradesman 
 and boy had his ' book,' or his chance in some ' hop club ' ; and on the 
 publication of the duty many thousands of pounds changed hands. 
 
 Toward the latter end of August and the beginning of September 
 ' hop-picking ' commences. This is the first process in the saving of 
 
CHEEEIES AND HOPS. 
 
 [13] 
 
 the crop ; and few scenes are more picturesque than that afforded by 
 the Kentish hop-garden during the picking season. Men, women, 
 and children are all employed. ' Labourers, costermongers, factory 
 girls, shirt-makers, fishermen's boys, jolly young watermen, and even 
 clerks out of employment, all throng the Kentish highways at this 
 time, attracted by the opportunity of earning a couple of shillings per 
 day ; and still the cry is more, and the farmer in plentiful seasons is 
 frequently embarrassed for want of hands.' The work is said to be 
 especially healthy and strengthening, owing to the tonic properties 
 of the hop ; and invalids are occasionally recommended to pass whole 
 days in the hop-grounds as a substitute— and a very efficient one — for 
 the usual 1 exhibition ' of Bass or Allsop. Thanks mainly to a Society 
 of practical philanthropists, whose head-quarters are at Maidstone, a 
 good deal has been done of late years to improve the morals and lodg- 
 ing of hop-pickers ; and since the ' Public Health Act ' of 1875, proper 
 temporary accommodation for hop-pickers in the shape of rows of 
 ' hop-huts' is provided almost everywhere. 
 
 The hop-cutter, armed with an instrument called a 'hop-dog,' which 
 has a hook on one side and a knife on the other, cuts the bine about 
 the roots, and then, hooking up pole, bine, and all, lays it across the 
 picker's bins. 'Down comes a hop-pole, and away goes a swift hand 
 up it, plucking the flowers into a canvas bin upon a wooden frame, 
 carefully avoiding the leaves till it gets near the top of the pole, when, 
 with one stroke, it rubs off all that remain, the few little green leaves 
 at top doing no harm. The pole, with the bine stripped of its flowers, 
 is then thrown aside, just as the cutter, who has served 8 or 9 in the 
 interval, drops another pole across the bin. Each of these bins holds 
 15 or 20 bushels, which is as much as the fastest hand can pick in 
 a day. The lower parts of the poles, which are rotted by being in the 
 earth, are then cut away, and the poles will be carefully stacked to 
 serve for shorter plants next year.' In East Kent large baskets are 
 used instead of bins. 
 
 After picking, the hops are removed to the 1 oast-houses,' in which 
 they are dried. These are for the most part built of brick, and per- 
 fectly circular up to a height of 14 or 15 ft., whence they terminate in 
 a cone, surmounted by a cowled chimney, peculiarly shaped, to allow 
 the vapour from the hops to escape. ' Oast ' is said (but very improb- 
 ably, although we are unable to give a more certain explanation) to 
 be a corruption of the Flemish word 'huys'— a house, the first 
 ' driers ' having been introduced from Flanders at the same time as 
 the hops themselves. In the lower part of the oast-house, toward the 
 centre of a small circular chamber, is the furnace, in which burns a 
 clear fire of coke and charcoal. Into this some rolls of brimstone are 
 thrown from time to time, the vapour from which gives a livelier 
 colour to the hops, and is usually (except at Farnham, in Surrey) 
 adopted. The purchaser is, of course, aware that the colour is pro- 
 duced with brimstone ; * but he does not care how you do it, so that 
 the hops look bright.' The fire is sometimes enclosed in a sort of 
 oven, and so quite hidden ; and sometimes is placed in a brick stove 
 with apertures for the escape of heat, contrived by omitting a brick 
 here and there. These apertures are mysteriously called ' horses.' 
 
[14] 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Above the furnace, and accessible by a ladder from without, are the 
 drying-room and cooling-floor. 'On a circular floor, about 56 ft. in 
 circumference, formed of strong wire-netting and covered with coarse 
 hair-cloth, through which the warm air ascends, the hop-flowers lie to 
 a depth of 2 or 3 ft. 1050 lbs. weight of green hops are here drying 
 at once ; but through the little aperture at the top of this sugar-loaf 
 chamber some 850 lbs. of this weight will evaporate into air, so that 
 a day's work of the fastest picker, weighing 100 lbs. when green, will 
 scarcely weigh 20 when dry. The air is only moderately warm ; but 
 the grower, by long experience (for nothing else will make a hop- 
 drier), knows without any thermometer that it is exactly the proper 
 heat — considering the weather, the state of the hops, and a dozen 
 other things. The drying never ceases during the time of picking, 
 and is one of the most difficult branches of the preparation. A man 
 must watch them clay and night, turning them frequently until the 
 stalks look shrivelled, and, burying his arms deep in the hops, he feels 
 them to be dry. This is generally after 8 or 12 hours' drying, after 
 which they are shovelled through the little door on to the adjoining 
 cooling-floor to make room for more.' 
 
 On the cooling-floor the hops are tightly wedged into their ' pockets,' 
 and, whilst the duty existed, every pocket, before removal, was weighed 
 by a supervisor of Excise, who numbered' each, marked the weight, 
 added his own name and parish, and finally made a black cross upon 
 the seam at the mouth of the sack to prevent frauds on the Govern- 
 ment by afterwards squeezing in more hops. This was called ' sealing ' 
 the pocket, and it was considered as a security for the hops really 
 having been grown in the place named. A somewhat similar super- 
 vision is now exercised by the officers of various associations of hop- 
 growers. 
 
 Besides the cherry orchards already mentioned, there are large 
 orchards of apples, plums, currants, gooseberries and other fruit. 
 Kentish filberts are noted for their quality. Madder and woad are 
 grown near Sandwich. There is much timber grown for house and 
 shipbuilding. In Romney Marsh and the marshes of the Medway and 
 Stour large numbers of sheep (of the Romney and other breeds) are 
 reared. The fisheries are by no means unimportant. Oysters are 
 caught off Whitstable, Queenborough, Milton, and other parts of the 
 N. coast. Whitstable i natives ' have a world-wide fame. The 
 shrimps of Gravesend and Pegwell Bay are excellent. Soles and 
 flounders are also caught in large numbers off the coasts. 
 
 V. Trade and Manufactures. 
 
 The ironworks of the Weald, and the cloth and silk factories of 
 Canterbury, are things of the past. The principal manufactures and 
 trades at the present time are gunpowder (Faversham and Dartford), 
 paper (Sittingbourne, St. Mary Cray, Chatham, Maidstone, and Dart- 
 ford), jams (Faversham and Sittingbourne), brickfields (Teynham, Sit- 
 tingbourne, &c), cement and lime (on the Medway), shipbuilding 
 (Chatham and Sheerness and Woolwich Dockyards), ordnance (Wool- 
 
GEOLOGY AND PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 [15] 
 
 wich Arsenal), breweries (Canterbury, Maidstone, Wateringbury, &e.), 
 and Tunbridge ware (Tunbridge and Tunb ridge Wells). 
 
 VI. Geology and Physical Geography. 
 
 Five parallel geological belts, of varying widths and outlines, extend 
 throughout the county of Kent in a direction ranging from N.W. to 
 S.E. The first, stretching from London to the Isle of Thanet, and 
 embracing the Isle of Sheppey, is a tertiary formation, consisting partly 
 of plastic and partly of London clay, and is, in fact, a continuation of 
 the so-called basin of London. The second belt, that of the chalk, is 
 a continuation of the North Downs, and extends from the border of 
 Surrey to the eastern coast, widening as it advances, and forming a 
 broad mass of cliff — 'the white walls of Albion' — between Folkestone 
 and Warmer. A low, marshy coast stretches from Walmer to the Isle 
 of Thanet, where the chalk reappears and forms the fine promontory 
 of the North Foreland. The chalk intrudes on the first or tertiary belt, 
 through the bank of the Darenth and the Medway, and extends in 
 a thin line along the bank of the Thames from Greenwich to Graves- 
 end. The third and fourth belts (the first very narrow, the second of 
 somewhat greater width) consist of the gault and lower greensand 
 group, both underliers of the chalk. The fifth belt is that of the 
 Weald clay, which extends from Surrey to the sea, between Hythe 
 and the mouth of the Rother. Some portions of the Hastings sand 
 formation, which covers so much of Sussex, penetrate into Kent, and 
 are occasionally found isolated in the midst of the Weald. Clay iron- 
 stone occurs in the Wealden beds, and also calcareous iron ore. These 
 beds were worked for iron, until the beginning of the present century 
 (see Rte. n). Among the beds of the lower greensand are the beds 
 of limestone known as Kentish rag-stone, which are largely used for 
 building (see Rte. 6). Indications of coal have been found between 
 Folkestone and Dover. 
 
 The geological history of all these formations belongs to that of the 
 great valley of the Weald, or the district lying between the North and 
 the South Downs, and will be found noticed at greater length in 
 the Introduction to the Hdbk. for Sussex. The works of Mantell, 
 Lyell, Prestwich, Godwin-Austin, and others should be consulted by 
 those who wish for full information. There is an excellent summary 
 on the geology of the county in the Introduction to Kelly s County 
 Directory. It should here be remarked, however, that in the first or 
 tertiary belt the Isle of Sheppey is of very high interest on account 
 of the fossils with which it abounds. A full notice, with directions 
 for the collector, will be found in Rte. 13. The most important pre- 
 historic remains of man have been found, of the earlier type, at 
 Reculvers and Crayford, of the later type at Harbledown (Bigbury 
 Hill) and in the Isle of Thanet. In different parts of the chalk dis- 
 trict, landsprings, resembling the Hampshire and Sussex 'lavants,' 
 break out at intervals, and are here called ' nailbournes ' — a corrup- 
 tion, it is said, of 1 an eelbourne,' although it scarcely appears that 
 these occasional watercourses are remarkable for the size or quantity 
 of the eels found in them. Like the singular ' swallows ' on the river 
 
[16] 
 
 GENEKAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Mole (see Hdbk. for Surrey, there can be no doubt that the inter- 
 mittent character of these springs is due to the cavernous nature of 
 the subsoil. Extensive fissures, filled with loose blocks of rock, are of 
 not uncommon occurrence in the chalk. After wet seasons the water 
 which has accumulated in these overflows, and forms the torrent 
 called a ' nailbourne.' 
 
 The Weald (Ang.-Sax. forest) of Kent, still a wooded district, was 
 anciently covered with a thick forest, the eastern part of the great 
 Andredes-weald, which extended through Sussex as far as the Hamp- 
 shire border. The timber of Britain was famous at an early period ; 
 and possibly it was from Augustine's report of the great oaks which 
 overshadowed so much of this district (and perhaps of the oaken 
 buildings he found among the Saxons) that Gregory the Great was 
 induced to request that British timber might be sent to him at Rome 
 for building the churches of SS. Peter and Paul. The oak is still the 
 principal tree of the Weald ; on the chalk the beech flourishes, attain- 
 ing here and there to very unusual size. Whether this tree can 
 fairly be regarded as indigenous, however, is uncertain ; it is, at least, 
 remarkable to find Csesar (V. 12) asserting that the British irees were 
 the same as those of Gaul, with the exception of the beech and fir 
 (prseter fagum et abietem). By whatever route the Romans first 
 reached the Thames from the coast, they must have passed over 
 a wide stretch of chalk country on which the beech now grows in 
 profusion. 
 
 The river-basins of Kent are those of (1) the Thames, into which 
 fall the Ravensbourne and the Darenth (with its tributary the Cray) ; 
 
 (2) the Medway, which receives the Eden, the Beult, and the Teise ; 
 
 (3) the Stour, which receives the lesser Stour ; (4) the Dour, small 
 but important as the valley of Dover ; (5) the Rother. Of these the 
 two former drain into the North Sea ; the third into the Downs ; and 
 the latter into the Channel. 
 
 The two main ranges of hills are (1) the North Downs, running 
 through the county, generally from N.W. to S.E. ; and (2) the Rag- 
 stone range, to the south of these. In the former the highest points 
 are Westerham Hills (812 ft.) and Knockholt (783 ft.). In the latter 
 are Brasted Chart (810 ft.), Sevenoaks Hills (660 ft.). The hills at 
 Goudhurst reach the height of nearly 500 ft. The level portions of 
 the county are Romney Marsh, in the extreme S.E., and the marsh- 
 lands of the Stour and of the Medway. 
 
 Few parts of England have been so much altered, as re° .rcls the 
 shape of their coast line, in historic times, as the county of Kent. 
 From Folkestone to the Sussex border the sea has retreated. Lymne, 
 Romney, and Hythe, once seaports, are now deserted by the sea, and 
 surrounded by the * Marsh.' Thanet, once an island, is now united to 
 the mainland by marshlands which have taken the place of the 
 channel which once existed, and Richborough and Stonar, Sandwich 
 and Sarre, have shared the fate of Hythe and Romney. On the N. 
 coast the 'isle' of Graine is no longer an 'island,' and the Swale, 
 between Sheppey and the mainland, is now only a narrow channel, 
 crossed by a railway bridge. 
 
 On the other hand, on the N. coast, the sea has made various 
 
RAILWAY SYSTEMS. 
 
 inroads in the neighbourhood of Reculvers, Heme Bay, and Whit* 
 stable, and a large amount of land has been washed away. Except 
 where defended by strong walls, the sea is still encroaching on the 
 land. 
 
 The tourist may be quite sure that from any of the greater eleva- 
 tions in the county he will obtain a view which will amply repay him 
 for all the labour of the ascent. Among the grander Kentish prospects, 
 however, the following deserve special mention: — From Boughton 
 Hill toward Chatham (Rte. 3) ; from the cliffs of Minster in Sheppey 
 (Rte. 13) : from the high ground of Thanet (Rte. 7) ; from Dover 
 Castle (Rte. 2) ; from the hills near Folkestone (Rte. 2) ; from Goud- 
 hurst and its church-tower (Rte. 11) ; from Aldington Knoll (Rte. 2) ; 
 from Pluckley Church (Rte. 2) ; from Bluebell Hill, above Aylesford 
 (Rte. 6) ; from River Hill on the edge of Knole Park, looking south, 
 from the London road north of Sevenoaks (Rte. 8) ; from the hill 
 above Monks' Horton, on the road from Canterbury to Hythe (Rte. 2) ; 
 and from the Blean between Boughton Hill and Dargate (Rte. 3). 
 All these views will be found noticed in the general routes to which 
 they belong. 
 
 VlL Railway Systems. 
 
 The principal Railways which traverse the county are : — 
 
 1. London, Chatham, and Dover. — Victoria and Holborn to Beckenham, 
 
 Bromley, Swanley, Farningham, Rochester and Chatham, 
 Sittingbourne, Faversham, Canterbury, Kearsney and Dover. 
 Branches from Swanley to Sevenoaks, Maidstone and Ashford ; 
 from Farningham to Gravesend ; from Sittingbourne to Sheer- 
 ness ; from Faversham to Whitstable, Herne Bay, Westgate, 
 Margate, Broadstairs, Ramsgate ; from Kearsney to Walmer 
 and Deal ; from Victoria and Holborn to Greenwich. 
 
 2. South Eastern. — Charing Cross and Camion Street to Grove Park, 
 
 Dunton Green, Sevenoaks, Tunbridge, Paddock Wood, Ashford, 
 Sandling, Shorncliffe, Folkestone, Dover. 
 Branches from Grove Park to Bromley; DuntonGreen toWesterham ; 
 Tunbridge to Tunbridge Wells ; Tunbridge to Edenbridge ; 
 Ashford to Lydd and Ronmey; Ashford to Canterbury, Minster, 
 Ramsgate, Margate ; Canterbury to Elham and Shorncliffe ; 
 Minster to Sandwich and Deal ; Sandling to Hythe and Sand- 
 gate ; Dover to Walmer and Deal; Paddock Wood to Maid- 
 stone ; Canterbury to Whitstable. 
 
 3. South Eastern (North Kent Section). — Charing Cross and Cannon 
 
 Street to Spa Road, St. John's, Lewisham, Woolwich, Erith, 
 Dartford, Gravesend, Strood, and Maidstone. 
 Branches from Spa Road to Greenwich and Charlton ; St. John's 
 to Eltham, Crayford and Dartford ; Lewisham to Beckenham ; 
 Lewisham to West Wickham and Hayes ; Gravesend to Port 
 Victoria ;. Strood to Rochester and Chatham. 
 [Kent.'] c 
 
[18] 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 4. London, Brighton and South Coast. — London Bridge and Victoria to 
 Sydenham, Norwood, Croydon, Edenbridge, Hever, Groombridge 
 and Tunbridge Wells. 
 Branch from Norwood to Beckenham. 
 
 VIII. Picture Galleries and Museums. 
 
 The best collections of pictures in Kent are those at Cobham Park 
 (Rte. 3), belonging to Lord Darnley ; at Penshurst Castle (Rte. 2), 
 belonging to Lord De l'lsle and Dudley ; at Knole Park, Sevenoaks 
 (Rte. 8), belonging to Lord Sackville ; and at Greenwich Hospital 
 (Rte. 1). 
 
 There are Museums containing numerous objects of general as well 
 as local interest at Maidstone (Rte. 6), Dover (Rte. 2), and Canterbury 
 (Rte. 3), at Fort Pitt and the Engineers' barracks at Chatham (Rte. 
 3), at the Rotunda, Woolwich (Rte. 6), and at Folkestone (Rte. 2). 
 
 IX. Best Centres for Excursions. 
 
 1. Canterbury. — Cathedral, St. Augustine's, St. Martin's, &c. ; St. 
 
 Stephen's, Chartham, Chilham,Patrixbourne, Bishopsbourne, 
 Fordwich, The Blean, Shottenden, Barfreston. 
 
 2. Heme Bay. — Herne, Blean Woods, Whitstable, Reculver. 
 
 3. Bamsgate. — Sandwich, Richborough, Stonar, Sarre, Minster, Ozen- 
 
 gall, Broadstairs, N. Foreland, Margate. 
 
 4. Dover. — Castle and St. Margaret's, St. Radigund's Abbey, Bar- 
 
 freston. 
 
 5. Folkestone. — Cheriton, Lyminge, Elham, Shorncliffe Camp, Sand- 
 
 gate, Caesar's Camp. 
 
 6. Hythe — Lymne, Saltwood, Westenhanger, Monk's Horton, Romney 
 
 Marsh. 
 
 7. Cranbrook.— Goudhurst, Hawkhurst, Horsmonden, Tenterden, The 
 
 Weald. 
 
 8. Tunbridge. — Penshurst, Chiddingstone, Hever, Tunbridge Wells, 
 
 Southborough. 
 
 9. Sevenoaks. — Knole, Wildernesse, Ightham, Brasted, Westerham. 
 
 10. Maidstone. — Aylesford, Kit's Coity House, Boxley, Allington, 
 Hollingbourne, Mailing, Offham, Addington, Leeds Castle. 
 
 12. Bochester. — Chatham, Stroud, Cobham, Isle of Sheppey. 
 
 13. Darlford — Stone. Swanscombe, Darenth, The Crays, Southfleet, 
 
 Gravesend. 
 
SKELETON TOURS. 
 
 A TOUK OF SEVEN WEEKS THKOUGH KENT 
 AND SUSSEX.* 
 
 (EMBRACING ALL THE CHIEF PLACES OF INTEREST.) 
 Days. 
 
 1. London by railway to Sevenoaks (Rte. 8). In the afternoon see 
 
 Knole. 
 
 2. By road from Sevenoaks to Maidstone, visiting the Mote, Ightham 
 
 (Rte. 8), Mailing Abbey, and Allington Castle (Rte. 6), on the 
 way. 
 
 3. See All Saints 1 Church and College, and the town of Maidstone, 
 
 in the morning ; in the afternoon visit Leeds Castle. 
 
 4. By rail to Aylesford. See the town, and visit Kit's Coity Hons* 1 
 
 (Rte. 6). Proceed by rail to Rochester. Better by road via 
 Boxley, and Kit's Coity House to Aylesford. Then on by rail. 
 
 5. See the Castle and Cathedral in the morning. Visit Chatham and 
 
 Brompton in the afternoon. (If the Dockyard be an object, an 
 entire day should be given to it.) 
 
 6. Visit Cobham Hall (Rte. 3). 
 
 7. Sunday at Rochester. 
 
 8. By rail to Faversham (Rte. 3). See the Church, and visit Daving- 
 
 ton Priory. In the afternoon proceed to Canterbury (Rte. 3). 
 (The road should be followed rather than the rail.) 
 
 9. See the Cathedral in the morning. In the afternoon, St. 
 
 Augustine's College and St. Martin's Church ; and ascend the 
 hill above the latter for the sake of the general view of 
 Canterbury. 
 
 10. See the Dane John and the rest of the city in the morning. In 
 
 the afternoon visit Chartham and Chilham (Rte. 7). Chartham 
 Church is of very great interest. Return to Canterbury. 
 
 11. Visit the Churches of Patrixbourne and Barfreston (Rte. 3). 
 
 Return to Canterbury. 
 
 12. By railway to Minster (Rte. 7). See the Church; visit the high 
 
 ground. of the Isle of Thanet, and the Church of St. Nicholas 
 at Wade. Return to Minster, and proceed by rail to Margate 
 (Rte. 7). 
 
 13. See the North Foreland. In the evening by rail from Broadstairs 
 
 to Ramsgate (Rte. 7). 
 
 14. Sunday at Ramsgate. 
 
 * For the part of Tour, Days 27 to 48, through Sussex, see Hdbk. for Sussex. 
 
 C 2 
 
[20] 
 
 GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 15. By rail to Sandwich (Rte. 4). See the town in the morning; in 
 
 the afternoon visit Richborough. 
 
 16. By rail to Deal. Thence by road to Dover, visiting Walmer Castle 
 
 (Rte. 4) and the Church of St. Margaret at Cliffe (Rte. 14) on 
 the way. 
 
 17. At Dover (Rte. 2). See the Castle and the Western Heights. 
 
 18. By rail to Folkestone (Rte. 2). See the Church. In the afternoon 
 
 visit Castle Hill, and Caesar's Camp, N. of the town. Return to 
 Folkestone. 
 
 19. From Folkestone by rail to Sandling Junction, alight there, and 
 
 proceed via Saltwood Castle and Gardens to Hythe ; the Church 
 at Hythe ; and thence proceed to Lymne (Rte. 2). Or by road 
 to Shorncliffe Camp and Cheriton Church ; in the evening by 
 rail to Ashford; stopping at Westenhanger en route, to see the 
 Manor House and Horton Priory, 
 
 20. From Ashford by road to Tenterden and Cranbrook or Goudhurst 
 
 (Rte. 11). 
 
 21. Sunday at Cranbrook or Goudhurst (Kilndown Inn). 
 
 22. Goudhurst to Tunbridge Wells (Rte. 11). 
 
 23. See the Wells, and visit the High Rocks and the Common in the 
 
 morning ; in the afternoon proceed by rail to Tunbridge (Rte. 
 2). See the Castle there. Return to Tunbridge Wells. 
 
 24. Visit Penshurst, Cbiddingstone and Hever (Wednesday only) (Rte. 
 
 2). Return to Tunbridge Wells. 
 
 25. At Tunbridge Wells. Visit Frant Church and .Bayham Abbey 
 
 (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 15). 
 
 26. From Tunbridge Wells. Visit Mayfield (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 15). 
 
 27. By rail to Hastings (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 15, and see that Hdbk. for 
 
 remainder of Tour, through Sussex). 
 
PLACES OF INTEREST. 
 
 Chief Points of Interest 
 [the most remarkable with the Asterisk]. 
 
 ... Church; Powder and Paper Mills. Exc. up 
 the Darenth to Lullingstonc. See * Darenth 
 Church, Stone and Swanscombe Churches. 
 
 ... *Cathedral ; *Castle ; *Exc. to Cobham Hall. 
 
 ... * Dockyard. Chatham Lines. Exc. to Isle of 
 Sheppey. *Sheerness Dockyard. Remarkable 
 fossils. Minster Church. 
 
 ... "Church. *Davington Priory. *View from 
 Boughton Hill. Visit Selling Church; The 
 Blean Hills ; Perry Wood and Shottenden ; 
 and remains of Stone Church. 
 
 ... "Cathedral. * St. Augustine's College ; *St. 
 Martin's Church. Views of city from Harble- 
 down and opposite hills. Exc. to *Chartham 
 and Chilham. View over the valley of the 
 Stour. Exc. to Littlebourne, Patrixbourne, 
 and * Barfreston Churches ; St. Nicholas' 
 Hospital ; Harbledown ; Gorsley Wood ; and 
 Bishopsbourne. 
 ' ... Herne Church. *Reculver. 
 
 ... * View from high ground of Thanet. *Minster 
 Church. * Church of St. Nicholas at Wade 
 Ozengall Hill. 
 
 ... *Nortb Foreland. Salmstone Grange. 
 
 ... *St. Clement's Church. *Richborough. Eastry 
 Church. 
 
 ... *Walmer Castle. *Northbourne Church, 
 ... *Castle. * Western Heights. Maison Dieu. 
 
 *Exc. to Church of St. Margaret at Cliffe. 
 
 *St. Margaret's Bay. View from the Prospect 
 
 Tower in Waldersharc Park. St. Radigund's 
 
 Abbey. * Shakespeare's Cliff. 
 ... *Church. *View from Castle Hill. *Lyminge 
 
 and Paddles worth Churches. 
 ... *Church. *Saltwood Castle. *Westenhanger. 
 
 *Lymne. Exc. to Romney Marsh. 
 ... Church. Exc. to Wye. Exc. to Eastwell and 
 
 Charing. * View from Eastwell Park. 
 
 * Stained glass in West well Church. Remains 
 
 of Archiepiscopal Palace at Charing. 
 
[22] GENERAL INFORMATION. 
 
 Texterden Church. View from Church tower. 
 
 Cranbrook Church. Sissinghurst. 
 
 Goudhurst *View from Church tower. Kilndown Church 
 
 and Bedgebury. 
 
 Tunbridge Wells Views from Common. *High Rocks ; Toad 
 
 Rock. Eridge Park. View from Frant 
 Church; *Bayham Abbey; *Mayfield; Buck- 
 hurst ; Ashdown Forest. (See Sussex Handbk.) 
 
 Tunbridge *Castle. Manufacture of Tunbridge ware. 
 
 Visit to *Penshurst and *Hever Castles. 
 
 Maidstone *A11 Saints' Church. * College. Excursions to 
 
 *Allington Castle ; Mailing Abbey ; Ad- 
 dington ; *Leeds Castle ; Aylesford ; * Kit's 
 Coity House. *View from Blue-Bell Hill. 
 * Stained glass in Nettlested Church; Boxley 
 Abbey. 
 
 Sevenoaks *Knole Park. *The Mote House, Ightham. 
 
 *Chevening. Westerham. 
 
 Bromley View from Holwood Hill. Chislehurst, Church 
 
 and Green. *Exc. by Valley of Cray to 
 Crayford. 
 
 Woolwich *Arsenal. ^Dockyard. View from Shooters' 
 
 Hill. *Eltham. 
 
 AN AETISTIC AND ANTIQUAEIAN TOUR 
 
 Rochester Cathedral and Castle. Pictures at Cobham. Maidstone 
 Church and College. Leeds Castle. Faversham Church. Davington 
 Priory. Canterbury Cathedral and St. Augustine's College. St. 
 Martin's Church. Churches of Minster and St. Nicholas at 
 Wade. Roman remains at Reculver and Richborough. Town of 
 Sandwich. Church of St. Margaret at Cliffe. Barfreston and Patrix- 
 bourne Churches. Dover Castle. Maison Dieu Hall. Hythe Church. 
 Saltwood Castle. Ruins of the Manor-house at Westenhanger. 
 Roman remains at Lymne. Tunbridge Castle. Penshurst. Hever. 
 Pictures at Knole. The Mote, Ightham. Sore Place, Plaxtol. 
 
HANDBOOK FOR KENT 
 
KENT. 
 
 [At the Census of 1891 Kent (including the Metropolitan 
 district) contained a population of 1,173,363 persons, being an 
 increase of 164.575 since the year 1881.] 
 
 ROUTE 1. 
 
 THE THAMES. — LONDON TO MAR- 
 GATE, BY GREENWICH, WOOL- 
 WICH DOCK, AND GRAVESEND. 
 
 For Margate (and Ramsgate) 
 steamers leave the London Bridge 
 Wharf daily during the summer 
 and autumn. The journey, how- 
 ever, can be materially shortened 
 by proceeding by rail (on the 
 Tilbury and Southend line) to Til- 
 bury or Thames Haven, and there 
 joining the vessels which run in the 
 summer. 
 
 For Gravesend, steamers leave 
 London Bridge several times a day 
 all the year round ; they touch 
 at Blackwall and North Woolwich, 
 where passengers by rail from the 
 Great Eastern or North London lines 
 can embark, saving from 30 to 45 
 minutes. 
 
 For Greenwich, Blackwall, and 
 Woolwich, steamers leave West- 
 minister Pier every \ hour, and 
 touch at the chief piers on the river. 
 Deptford and Greenwich can also be 
 reached by the Greenwich Railway, 
 from Charing Cross, Waterloo Junction, 
 Cannon- stieet, and London Bridge Sta- 
 tions, but the parts bordering on New 
 Cross and Lewisham are best gained 
 by the North Kent line, from the 
 same stations ;Rte. 6). 
 
 If the trip be made entirely by 
 water (which is recommended, 
 where time is not an object) the 
 passage to Gravesend will occupy 
 i\ hrs., that to Margate 6 hrs., and 
 to Ramsgate 7 hrs. 
 
 The approach to London by the 
 river is the only one which at once 
 impresses a stranger with the gran- 
 deur and extent of the metropolis. 
 Every visitor should make a point of 
 passing in a steamer at least from 
 London to Greenwich. 
 
 The whole of the Thames, below 
 the bridges, is included in the Port 
 of London, which extends seaward 
 a distance of 4 m. from the N. Fore- 
 land lighthouse. 
 
 The tide flows nearly as high as 
 Richmond ; for a greater distance 
 (60 in.) than is found in any other 
 river in Europe. The average ve- 
 locity of the tidal wave is 20 m. an 
 hour ; that of the stream itself is 
 between 3 and 4 m. an hour — a 
 medium, however, deduced from 
 great inequalities arising from dif- 
 ferent sources. The water is some- 
 times brackish at London Bridge ; 
 at Gravesend it is salt but turbid— 
 ' nevertheless it is not so impure as 
 the waters of the Ganges and other 
 celebrated rivers' — (Cruden's Graves- 
 end) — a small consolation to those 
 who have to use it. 
 
 No other river in the world has 
 
4 
 
 ROUTE 1. — LONDON: LONDON DOCKS. 
 
 such an amount of traffic. i Thames' 
 fair bosom is the world's exchange/ 
 This ceaseless passage of vessels, to- 
 gether with the increase of London 
 itself, have not a little altered the 
 appearance of the river since Spenser 
 wrote of it as the 1 silver-streaming 
 Thames' — or since Harrison (1580) 
 described the 'fat and sweete sal- 
 mons ' daily taken in it. Its only 
 present contributions to the table 
 are flounders, eels, and whitebait — 
 the last sometimes incorrectly as- 
 serted to be peculiar to the Thames. 
 
 This transit was formerly known 
 as ' The Long Ferry,' and the right 
 of conveying passengers on it was at a 
 very early period attached to the 
 manors of Milton and Gravesend. 
 These were bound to prepare boats for 
 the passage, called 'Tilt-boats,' duly 
 supplied with trusses of clean straw 
 for the repose of the passengers. The 
 journey in these boats was long and 
 sometimes dangerous ; and De Foe 
 has given a graphic picture of the 
 terrors of the river in a storm, when 
 the passenger was glad to be set on 
 shore at Blackwall (JV. and Q. ii. 209). 
 The last of these sailing boats was 
 withdrawn in 1834, after a vain 
 struggle against the steamers, which 
 commenced running between Lon- 
 don and Gravesend, Jan. 23, 1815. 
 
 The voyage up and down the 
 Thames, especially at the turn of 
 the tide, presents a sight which a 
 foreigner cannot look upon but with 
 astonishment, or an Englishman 
 without pride. It is very certain 
 that no other city in the world can 
 present such a spectacle as the haven 
 of London. At first the steam-vessel 
 slowly and with difficulty makes its 
 way, stopping every few minutes 
 until some unwieldy laden barge, 
 or deeply freighted merchantman 
 bound for the docks, can be moved 
 aside or avoided so as to allow the 
 vessel to pass. At times a whole 
 group of ships of different sizes and 
 classes may be seen as it were en- 
 tangled and obstructing the passage. 
 It is wonderful with what ease they 
 are disentangled. The coolness and 
 
 precision with which the captain of 
 the steamer, pacing the bridge be- 
 tween the paddle-boxes, delivers his 
 orders unaffected by the tumult and 
 disorder around, is especially worthy 
 of notice. Eemark also the semi- 
 military order in which the ships 
 are moored on either side of the 
 river, in compact squares or tiers, 
 leaving ample space in the centre 
 for passage up and down. There 
 are sixteen bends or reaches on the 
 river between London and Graves- 
 end. 
 
 The river for 4 m. below London 
 Bridge is called The Pool, and con- 
 tains such of the shipping as does 
 not lie in the several docks. The 
 speed of all steamers is restricted to 
 5 m. an hour in passing through 
 this crowded part of the river. 
 
 Leaving the Westminster Pier, 
 
 the chief points to be noticed are — the 
 works of the Thames Embankment, 
 and the bridges, either for railway 
 or general traffic ; Somerset House, 
 the Middle Temple Library, and the 
 Temple Gardens on the 1. bank ; be- 
 yond rise the Dome of St. Paul's, 
 and some 40 spires or towers of 
 the City churches. St. Saviour's 
 Church, rt. is the next point ; and 
 below London Bridge the Custom 
 house and the Tower, 1., with St. 
 Katherine's and the London Docks 
 adjoining. 
 
 In order to construct St. Kathe- 
 rine's Docks, the entire parish of 
 St. Katherine, with its 1250 houses, 
 was excavated and carried away : 
 the earth to raise the low ground 
 about Belgrave Square ; the college 
 to be rebuilt in the Kegent's Park. 
 The Docks, which were opened in 
 1828, cost nearly two millions, 
 cover 23 acres, and accommodate 
 annually about 1400 ships, of which 
 from 140 to 150 can lie here conve- 
 niently at once. 
 
 Very near to, and below these, are 
 the London Docks ; their groves 
 of masts being also visible from the 
 river. These are of older date, and 
 
ROUTE 1 . — EXECUTION DOCK— DEPTFORD. 
 
 5 
 
 cover 30 acres. The London Docks 
 and the St. Katherine's Docks are 
 now under one proprietary, the for- 
 mer having absorbed the latter. 
 
 Execution Dock, Wapping, I., 
 was the usual place at which pirates 
 and persons committing capital 
 crimes at sea were formerly hung at 
 low water mark, 'there to remain till 
 three tides had overflowed them ; ' 
 their bodies were also, in some cases, 
 hung in chains in Blackwall Reach, 
 but both these practices have been 
 long abandoned. To Wapping, ac- 
 cording to De Foe, many fled dur- 
 ing the Plague, in the hope that the 
 smell of tar from the shipping would 
 prove an antidote. 
 
 Cherry Gardens Pier, rt. 
 
 Tunnel Pier, L 
 
 Off Rotherhithe Church, rt., the 
 ; Thames Tunnel,' now a Railway 
 Tunnel, is crossed. Beyond are the 
 Grand Surrey Docks. 
 
 Limehouse Pier, 1. 
 
 Cuckold's Point, where the river 
 bends into the Limehouse Reach, 
 was formerly distinguished by a tall 
 pole with a pair of horns on the top. 
 The land from Charlton, near Wool- 
 wich, as far as this point, was, says 
 tradition, granted by King John to 
 a miller who had a 'fair wife/ and 
 in whose house the king was unsea- 
 sonably discovered. The miller was 
 desired to 'clear his eyes ' and claim 
 as much land as he could see on the 
 Charlton side of the Thames. He 
 did so and saw as far as this point ; 
 having a grant of the land, on con- 
 dition of walking once a year to 
 Cuckold's Point with a pair of horns 
 on his head. 
 
 West India Docks Pier, 1. 
 
 Close to the pier is the entrance 
 to the W. India Bocks, which extend 
 across the base of the flat marshy 
 peninsula called the Isle of Dogs. 
 They were constructed in 1800 at a 
 cost of 1,200,000?. Their water 
 area alone is above 54 acres. The 
 
 City Canal, now forming part of these 
 docks, was constructed in order to 
 spare vessels the necessity of mak- 
 ing a circuit of if m. round the 
 peninsula. The scheme however 
 proved a failure, and the canal was 
 sold to the W. India Dock Company, 
 who use it as a timber-dock. 
 
 Passing into Limehouse Reach, rt. 
 are seen the Commercial Bocks, ori- 
 ginally constructed for the Green- 
 land trade. The largest of these 
 docks is supposed to have been the 
 entrance of a canal or trench, dug 
 by Canute the Dane in 1016, during 
 the blockade of London, for the 
 passage of his fleet from here to 
 Vauxhall, in order to avoid London 
 Bridge. Here the oil is boiled dur- 
 ing the season when the whale- 
 fishers bring home their cargoes. In 
 this reach, at Deptford, is the ter- 
 mination of the Pool. 
 
 Commercial Docks Pier, rt. 
 
 For ample notices of all the places 
 hitherto mentioned, see Murray's 
 Handbook for London. 
 
 Earl's Sluice, a little below the 
 Commercial Docks, divides the coun- 
 ties of Surrey and Kent. 
 
 Millwall Pier, 1. 
 
 Immediately beyond, 4 m. from 
 London Bridge, is 
 
 DEPTFORD*, early a place of 
 rendezvous for shipping, owing to its 
 creek of deep water (depe ford) and its 
 short distance from London. The 
 little river Raven sbourne, which 
 receives the Lee at Lewisham, 
 flows into the Thames at Dept- 
 ford Creek, E. of the Dockyard. 
 Henry VIII. granted leave to the 
 * shipmen and mariners of England ' 
 to found in the parish church of 
 Deptford a guild or brotherhood of 
 the Holy Trinity and St. Clement, 
 with authority to make by-laws, 
 among themselves for the advantage 
 and increase of the shipping. Out 
 of this brotherhood has grown, with 
 some additional privileges, the pre- 
 sent Trinity Board. Their meetings 
 
6 
 
 ROUTE 1. — DEPTFOED — ISLE OF DOGS. 
 
 were formerly held in an ancient 
 hall here, which was taken down 
 about 1787, when a new building 
 for their use was erected on Tower 
 Hill. 
 
 Two Hospitals still remain at 
 Deptford connected with the Trinity 
 Board, the first dating from the 
 reign of Henry VIII, but rebuilt in 
 1788; the second built toward the 
 end of the 17th cent. Pilots and 
 shipmasters are the pensioners of 
 both. 
 
 A 1 Storehouse* was first esta- 
 blished at Deptford by Henry VIII. 
 about 1513, and it rapidly became 
 the most important of the royal 
 dockyards ; but as a Government 
 dockyard Deptford has ceased to 
 exist, and part of the site is now oc- 
 cupied by the new Foreign Cattle 
 Market, opened in 1871 by the Cor- 
 poration of London. 0 ther portions 
 of the site are occupied by private 
 commercial undertakings of various 
 kinds. 
 
 What used to be the Victualling 
 
 Yard includes the site of the grounds 
 and i most boscaresque gardens/ as 
 they are called by Roger North, at- 
 tached to Sayes Court, the well-known 
 residence of John Evelyn ; the 
 hedges in whose garden here, except 
 those of holly, which could protect 
 themselves (ilium nemo impune 
 lacessit, says Evelyn), were ruined 
 by Peter the Great, who amused 
 himself by driving through them in 
 wheelbarrow, during his residence 
 at Sayes Court in 1698, whilst 
 studying and working in the dock- 
 yard. Sayes Court itself has en- 
 tirely disappeared, and the site is 
 now occupied by the parish work- 
 house. Evelyn died here in 1706 ; 
 and much of the surrounding pro- 
 perty still remains in the possession 
 of his descendants. Sayes Court was 
 at an early period the residence of 
 a family of the same name ; and it 
 will be remembered as the scene of 
 some fine chapters in 1 Kenilworth.' 
 
 The two Deptford Churches are 
 
 modern and uninteresting. In that 
 of St. Nicholas, remodelled in 17 16, 
 is the monument of Peter Pett (d. 
 1652), one of the famous shipbuilders 
 — 1 justus sane vir, et sui sseculi 
 Noah * — and the inventor of the 
 frigate : i illud eximium et novum 
 navigii ornamentum quod nostri 
 frigatum nuncupant, hostibus for- 
 midulosum, suis utilissimum atque 
 tutissimum, primus invenit/ The 
 name and something more, however, 
 were borrowed from the Venetians, 
 who had only used them as ships of 
 commerce. The English were the 
 first to convert them to warlike pur- 
 poses. 
 
 It was here, on April 4, 1581, that 
 Queen Elizabeth visited the 'Golden 
 Hind/ the ship in which Drake 
 had ' compassed the world/ Its 
 hull was covered with barnacles 
 {Lepas anatifera) ; and Camden 
 {Britannia) alludes to its condition, 
 as a proof that 1 small birds have 
 been produced from old rotten hulls 
 of ships/ Her Majesty dined on 
 board ; and after dinner knighted 
 Sir Francis. The ship was after- 
 wards laid up in the yard here, and 
 the cabin converted into a banquet- 
 ing-house for the accommodation 
 of London visitors. After it was 
 broken up, a chair made of the 
 wood was presented to the Uni- 
 versity of Oxford. Cowley's *Pin- 
 darick Ode upon his sitting drinking 
 in this chair/ ends thus — 
 
 ' Drake and his ship could not have wish'd 
 from fate 
 
 A more blest station or more blest estate; 
 For, lo ! a seat of endless rest is given 
 To Her in Oxford, and to Him in Heaven !' 
 
 In Deptford New Town, near 
 the Kavensbourne, are the large 
 works of the Kent Water Company. 
 
 The Isle of Dogs, opposite Dept- 
 ford, is said to have been so named 
 from a dog whose fidelity led to the 
 discovery of its master's murdered 
 body in the marsh here. There 
 were, until recently, some traces, 
 towards the centre, of a rude build- 
 ing called 'King John's Dog 
 
ROUTE 1. — GREENWICH. 
 
 7 
 
 Kennel ' ; and another, though 
 scarcely more probable, tradition 
 derives the name from the appro- 
 priation of the ground to the king's 
 hounds during the hunting visits 
 of the earlier sovereigns to Green- 
 wich and Blackheath. Baxter gives 
 it a much more ancient origin, and 
 thinks it was the Counnenos of Pto- 
 lemy : Cuninus (Celt.) ; Canum in- 
 sulci. Since 1830 numerous iron-ship- 
 builders' yards, chemical works, 
 &c, have sprung up here ; docks 
 have been constructed ; and two 
 churches have been built, one of 
 them the gift of the late Alderman 
 Cubitt. 
 
 Below Deptford remark the very 
 fine view of Greenwich which opens 
 as the steamer approaches the 
 hospital. 
 
 Greenwich Pier, rt. 
 
 5 m. GREENWICH* (pop: 
 57,244) (Grenawic— the 1 Green- 
 town') — always a hill of foliage 
 rising above the river, and a 
 favourite station of the old North- 
 men, whose ' host ' was frequently 
 encamped on the high ground here 
 — was given with Deptford and 
 Lewisham to the Abbey of St. Peter 
 at Ghent (circ. 900), by Eltruda, 
 niece of King Alfred, and wife of 
 Earl Baldwin of Flanders. The 
 Ghent Abbey held it till the sup- 
 pression of alien priories by Henry 
 V., when Greenwich was transferred 
 to the Carthusians of Shene, who 
 held it until the Dissolution. There 
 were some reservations however ; 
 and on a part of the land thus re- 
 tained there seems to have been a 
 royal abode from the time of Edward 
 I., possibly identical with the 
 mansion which was built by Duke 
 Humphrey of Gloucester, uncle to 
 Henry VI., who called his palace 
 i Placentia ' or the 1 Manor of 
 Pleasaunce.' He also enclosed the 
 park, and built a tower on the site 
 of the present Observatory. Edward 
 IV. enlarged the palace, and it con- 
 tinued a favourite royal residence 
 
 until the commencement of the 
 Civil War. 
 
 Henry VIII. was born here in 
 1 49 1, and was baptized in the parish 
 church by Fox, then Bp. of Exeter. 
 Here he married Catherine of 
 Arragon, and Anne of Cleves ; and 
 amongst other solemn festivities 
 during his reign, the first 1 disguis- 
 ing after the manner of Italie, called 
 a maske, a thing not seen afore in 
 Englande ' (Hall), took place here in 
 1513 'on the daie of the Epiphanie 
 at night.' Edward VI. died here, 
 July 6, 1553 ; Mary was born here 
 1516; and Elizabeth also, on Sept. 
 7) I 533- The famous christening 
 scene, which we can only picture to 
 ourselves with Shakspeare's ac- 
 companiments, took place in the 
 ' Friars' church ' ; and the house of 
 1 Placentia ' was honoured by her 
 frequent residence throughout her 
 reign. Here, June 1585, the deputies 
 from the United Provinces — 
 
 1 They whom the rod of Alva bruised, 
 Whose crown a British queen refused' — 
 
 laid the sovereignty of their country 
 at the feet of Elizabeth. Here it 
 was that Hentzner, in 1598, saw her 
 in all her bravery, in her 4 dress of 
 white silk, with pearls as large as 
 beans/ a small crown on her red 
 hair, and her long train upborne by 
 a marchioness. Here Sir Walter 
 has placed the scene of Raleigh's 
 first interview, when his muddied 
 cloak laid the foundation of his sub- 
 sequent high climbing ; and from 
 the windows of her palace here the 
 Queen watched the pinnaces of her 
 adventurous seamen, as they floated 
 by on their way to fresh discoveries 
 in the 1 new-found world.' 
 
 James I. began a new building at 
 Greenwich called the 4 Queen's 
 House,' and intended for Anne of 
 Denmark, which Henrietta Maria 
 employed Inigo Jones to finish. 
 After the restoration, Charles II. 
 commenced a new palace, and 
 formed the park. Mr. Pepys looked 
 anxiously at the designs for the 
 ' very great house,' ' which will cost 
 
8 
 
 EOUTE 1 . — GKEENWICH : HOSPITAL. 
 
 a great deal of money ' ; but only 
 that part was completed which now 
 forms a portion of the W. wing of 
 the Hospital. 
 
 This new palace was rarely inha- 
 bited ; and after the naval engage- 
 ment off La Hogue in 1692, when 
 considerable difficulty was experi- 
 enced in providing for the care of 
 the wounded, Queen Mary an- 
 nounced her intention of converting 
 it into a hospital. Not much was 
 done, however, until after her death 
 in 1694 ; when the king, anxious to 
 carry out her designs, ordered plans 
 for additional buildings to be pre- 
 pared by Sir Christopher Wren, and 
 the first stone of the new portion 
 was laid by John Evelyn (then 
 Treasurer of the Navy), June 30, 
 1696, 1 precisely at five o'clock in 
 the evening, Mr. Flamsteed observ- 
 ing the punctual time by instru- 
 ment.' The Hospital was opened in 
 Jan. 1705, when 42 seamen were 
 admitted. There was to have been 
 a statue of the queen in the inner 
 court ; but that part of the plan 
 was never carried out ; ' and few of 
 those who now gaze on the noblest 
 of European hospitals are aware 
 that it is a memorial of the virtues 
 of the good Queen Mary, of the love 
 and sorrow of William, and of the 
 great victory of La Hogue.' (Macaulay, 
 iv. 536). 
 
 The Hospital, as it now exists, is 
 superior in its size and architecture 
 to any royal palace in this country 
 except Windsor; and the foreigner 
 approaching London by the river 
 can hardly fail to be struck with 
 admiration when he learns what 
 was the destination of this noble 
 building ; occupying, as it does, a 
 site so thoroughly appropriate, where 
 the veteran sailors of England, 
 whilst enjoying a well-earned repose, 
 were still in their element, among 
 shipping constantly passing and re- 
 passing before them. 
 
 ' Hie requies senectse, 
 Hie modus lasso maris et viarum 
 Militiseque.' 
 
 In 1865-70 the destination of 
 
 these buildings was altered. It was 
 ascertained that the pensioners, one 
 and all, much preferred receiving a 
 fixed allowance at their own homes, 
 to being confined within the Hospi- 
 tal. They have consequently been 
 removed from it, and it has been 
 converted into a Royal Naval 
 College, for the advanced instruc- 
 tion of officers of the Navy and 
 Marines, and a few selected appren- 
 tices from the Royal Dockyards. 
 The College was opened 1873, and 
 now receives 700 students. 
 
 The Infirmary is converted into 
 a Free Hospital for Seamen of 
 all Nations, in connexion with the 
 Seamen's Hospital Society, an in- 
 stitution transferred from the old 
 hospital-ship ' Dreadnought/ 
 
 Passengers are landed from the 
 steamers almost in front of the 
 hospital. Before leaving the pier, 
 observe, in front of the W. wing, 
 the memorial to Lieut. Bellot, of the 
 French Imp. Navy— the well-known 
 Arctic navigator. It is an obelisk 
 of red granite inscribed with his 
 name, and was erected by public 
 subscription. 
 
 A noble terrace, 860 ft. long, with 
 a central flight of steps opening to 
 the water, extends in front of the 
 Hospital, which consists of four 
 distinct portions — King Charles's 
 (N.W.), Queen Anne's (N.E.), King 
 William's (S.W.), and Queen Mary's 
 (S.E.). King Charles's and Queen 
 Anne's buildings immediately face 
 the river, and are divided by the 
 great square, beyond which are seen 
 the hall and chapel with their colon- 
 nades. At the back is the ' Queen's 
 House,' built by Inigo Jones for 
 Henrietta Maria ; and beyond again 
 rise the trees of the Park, cluster- 
 ing about the Koyal Observatory. 
 This view — of its kind almost 
 unequalled — should be carefully 
 watched for. It is, perhaps, best 
 seen from the river, but should be 
 also noticed from the pier. The 
 statue of George II. in the centre of 
 the square is by Rysbrach, and is 
 
ROUTE 1. — GREENWICH: HOSPITAL. 
 
 9 
 
 sculptured from a block of white 
 marble taken at sea from the French 
 by Sir George Rooke. The eastern 
 side only of King Charles's building 
 formed a part of his unfinished 
 palace ; the designs for the rest of 
 this portion were supplied by Wren. 
 The governor and other officers 
 formerly had their apartments 
 here ; and there were wards for 523 
 men. Queen Anne's building, on 
 the opposite side of the square, now 
 contains the Museum of Ships and 
 Naval Models. 
 
 King William's quarter formed 
 part of Wren's designs, and contains 
 what is now known as the Painted 
 Hall, originally intended for the 
 common dining-hall of the Hospital. 
 Some of the external decorations 
 are due to Sir John Vanbrugh. The 
 alto-relievo on the E. side is by West, 
 and professes to be an emblematical 
 representation of the Death of 
 Nelson. 
 
 Queen Mary's building, opposite, 
 contains the chapel. The hospital 
 had accommodation for nearly 2800 
 pensioners, seamen of the Royal 
 Navy or marines. 
 
 The only accessible ' sight' in the 
 hospital is *the Painted Hall (open 
 free, from 2 to 6 daily), and the 
 1 Naval Museum/ in the N.E. wing 
 (open free daily, from 10 to 5, except 
 Fridays). 
 
 The Painted Hall (by Wren, 
 1703, 106 ft. by 56, and 50 ft. high) 
 contains a very interesting collection 
 of naval pictures, chiefly the gift of 
 George IV. from the royal collec- 
 tions, which have been arranged 
 here since 1825. In the vestibule 
 are casts from the statues in St. 
 Paul's of Howe {Flaxman), St. Vincent 
 (Baily), Duncan (Westmacott), and 
 Nelson {Flaxman). The flags above 
 them were taken by these com- 
 manders from the enemy at sea. 
 The ceiling of the Great Hall, 
 together with the paintings in the 
 upper division of the hall, are the 
 work of Sir James Thornhill, who 
 was engaged here from 1708 to 1727. 
 
 In the centre of the ceiling are 
 William and Mary, waited upon by 
 the cardinal virtues : the rest is a 
 mass of allegory which the visitor 
 will have difficulty in deciphering, 
 and will hardly care to dwell upon. 
 Remark that the inscription running 
 round the frieze contains Queen 
 Mary's name alone, as that of the 
 foundress of the hospital. In this 
 hall the body of Nelson lay in state 
 for three days before it was removed 
 by water to the Admiralty. 
 
 Of the pictures, the most interest- 
 ing are — 
 
 In the Vestibule: Vasco di Gama, 
 from an original at Lisbon ; and 
 Columbus, from a portrait by Par- 
 megiano at Naples. Notice also the 
 tablet to Sir John Franklin, his 
 officers and crews. 
 
 In the Hall, notice by Zucchero, 
 Charles Howard, Earl of Notting- 
 ham, Lord High Admiral in com- 
 mand at the defeat of the Armada. 
 After Zucchero (a copy of the Long- 
 leat portrait — Handbook for Wilts) 
 Sir Walter Raleigh. By Sir Peter 
 Lely, Prince Rupert ; also, all half- 
 lengths, Sir Christopher Myngs, Sir 
 Thomas Tyddiman, Sir John Har- 
 man, Montague Earl of Sandwich, 
 Sir Joseph Jordan, Sir William 
 Berkeley, Sir Thomas Allen, Monk 
 Duke of Albemarle, Sir Jeremy 
 Smith, SirWillian Penn, Sir George 
 Askue : all engaged in the four-days' 
 action with the Dutch fleet, June 1 
 to 4, 1666. Mr. Pepys thus refers to 
 these pictures, which were given to 
 the hospital by George IV.: — 'To 
 Mr. Lilly's, the painter's, and there 
 saw the heads — some finished, and 
 all begun — of the flagg-men in the 
 late great fight with the Duke of 
 York against the Dutch. The Duke 
 of York hath them done to hang in 
 his chamber, and very finely they 
 are done indeed.' By Sir Godfrey 
 Kneller, Prince George of Denmark, 
 Lord High Admiral (Est4l possible? 
 Macaulay, ii.), Sir Thomas Dilkes, 
 Admirals Benbow and Churchill. 
 By Dahl, Sir George Rooke, Sir 
 
10 
 
 BOUTE 1. — GREENWICH : QUEEN'S HOUSE. 
 
 Cloudesley Shovel, Sir John 
 Mimden. By Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 Hood Lord Bridport, Sir Edward 
 Hughes, Admiral Gell. Nelson, 
 after Hoppner. Collingwood, by H. 
 Howard. Exmouth, by Owen. Sir 
 Charles Hardy, by Romney, &c. &c. 
 
 Besides the portraits, remark — 
 Defeat of the Armada, Loutherberg. 
 George III. presenting a sword to 
 Earl Howe, on board the Queen 
 Charlotte, at Spithead, Briggs. Ac- 
 tion of ist June, 1794, Loutherberg. 
 Admiral Duncan receiving the sword 
 of the Dutch Admiral De Winter, 
 1797, Drummond. Death of Cook, 
 Zoffany. Bombardment of Algiers, 
 Chambers. Six small pictures repre- 
 senting the loss of the ' Luxem- 
 burgh ' galley, burnt in her passage 
 from Jamaica to London in 1727 ; a 
 part of the crew, 23 in number, 
 escaped in the long boat, and were 
 at sea from June 25 to July 7 with- 
 out food or drink : six only survived. 
 Death of Nelson, Levis. The Battle 
 of Trafalgar, Turner ; presented by 
 George IV. in 1829 from St. James's 
 Palace. Victory of Aboukir Bay, G. 
 Arnold. Nelson boarding the San 
 Josef, in the action off Cape St. 
 Vincent, G. Jones. 
 
 Many of the other pictures, al- 
 though copies, are of much interest, 
 and deserve examination. Notice 
 also the statues of Lords Exmouth 
 and De Saumarez, Sir Sydney Smith, 
 and Sir William Peel. 
 
 The walls and ceiling of the 
 Upper Hall are the work of Sir James 
 Thornhill. The subjects on the walls 
 are the two landings fatal to the 
 Stuarts ; that of William III. at 
 Torbay, and the arrival of George I. 
 at Greenwich. From the ceiling 
 look down Queen Anne and Prince 
 George of Denmark. 
 
 In a small room beyond are por- 
 traits of King William IV., Hood, 
 Duncan, &c, and a series of pictures 
 illustrating the life of Nelson, most 
 of which are by West or Westall. The 
 unfinished portrait of Nelson, by 
 Abbott (1798), is interesting. Re- 
 
 mark also a view of Greenwich 
 Palace as it was in 1690. 
 
 The !N"aval Museum contains a 
 very complete collection of models 
 of ships of different dates, and a 
 great variety of other models apper- 
 taining to naval matters. In 
 glass-cases here are preserved the 
 coat and waistcoat worn by Nelson 
 at Trafalgar, also his watch and 
 stock, and the coat worn by him 
 at the battle of the Nile in 1798. 
 Here are also the relics of Sir 
 John Franklin's last Arctic Ex- 
 pedition, recovered by Dr. Rae in 
 1854. Among the models displayed 
 here are those of the 6 Victory/ lost 
 in 1744— of the 'Centurion/ in 
 which Anson made his voyage round 
 the world— and of the 'Royal George/ 
 lost at Spithead 1782. On the model 
 of a ship's capstan is placed an 
 astrolabe which belonged to Sir 
 Francis Drake. 
 
 The Chapel, in Queen Mary's 
 building, was all-but burnt down in 
 1779. It was then restored, from 
 designs by Athenian Stuart ; and in 
 1 85 1 was again 1 renovated/ The 
 statues in the vestibule are by West. 
 Within the chapel, the designs over 
 the lower windows are by De Bruyn, 
 and illustrate the life of Christ. The 
 altar-piece— St. Paul's Shipwreck at 
 Melita — is by West, who also sup- 
 plied the designs for the pulpit and 
 reading-desk. On either side of the 
 portal screen, which is very elabo- 
 rate, are memorials of Sir Richard 
 Keats and Sir Thomas Hardy, both 
 governors of the hospital. The bust 
 of Keats (Chantrey) was given by 
 William IV. as a memorial 4 of his 
 old shipmate and watchmate ' ; that 
 of Hardy is by Behnes. 
 
 The Queen's House, called by 
 Anne of Denmark the 'House of 
 Delight/ at the back of the main 
 courts, and as seen from the river, 
 situated below the Observatory, has 
 been appropriated, with some addi- 
 tional buildings, as a school for the 
 children of seamen who have served 
 
ROUTE 1. — GREENWICH: OBSERVATORY. 
 
 11 
 
 in the navy. There are three dis- 
 tinct schools : — (i) for 400 sons of 
 officers ; (2) 400 sons of seamen or 
 marines ; (3) 200 girls : all fed, 
 clothed, and educated. 
 
 The stone globes, celestial and 
 terrestrial, at the W. entrance to 
 the hospital, should be noticed. 
 They are 6 ft. in diameter, and are 
 fixed to accord with the latitude. 
 
 Behind the Hospital stretches up 
 the ancient Park of the palace, con- 
 taining about 188 acres. It was 
 walled round with brick by James I., 
 and in the reign of Charles II. was 
 laid out by Le Notre, who then pre- 
 sided over the gardens of Versailles, 
 but the S.E. part has been re- 
 modelled, in the style of the London 
 parks. The scenery is of extreme 
 beauty, the finest points being the 
 high ground of the Observatory, 
 whence is a superb view over London 
 and the Thames ^Turner's original 
 drawing of this grand view, en- 
 graved in the ' Liber Studiorum/ is 
 in the S. Kensington Museum) ; and 
 an eminence near the eastern border 
 of the Park, known as 'One Tree 
 Hill/ from whence the view is 
 said to extend to Windsor Castle. 
 ' Would you believe/ writes Walpole 
 to Bentley (July, i755\ ' I had 
 never been in Greenwich Park? I 
 never had, and am transported. 
 Even the glories of Richmond and 
 Twickenham hide their diminished 
 heads.' The only present requisite 
 seems to be more turf. No wonder 
 that Queen Elizabeth ' used to walke 
 much in the parke, and great walkes 
 out of the parke and about the parke/ 
 Much of the tragedy of * Irene ' was 
 composed by Johnson, who had 
 lodgings in Church Street in 1737, 
 whilst pacing its avenues. 'We 
 walked in the evening in Green- 
 wich Park,' writes Boswell, at a much 
 later period. 'He asked me, I 
 suppose by way of trying my dispo- 
 sition, "Is not this very fine?" 
 Having no exquisite relish of the 
 beauties of nature, and being more 
 delighted with the " busy hum of 
 [Kent.'] 
 
 men," I answered, "Yes, sir, but 
 not equal to Fleet Street." John- 
 son : "You are right, sir."' The 
 elms, says Evelyn, were planted in 
 1664 ; the Spanish chestnuts, al- 
 though arranged in the same regular 
 avenues, are apparently of greater 
 age ; there are also some fine oak 
 and fir trees. 
 
 Greenwich fair, famous for its 
 somewhat rough humours, was, 
 until 1856, held in the Creek-bridge 
 road during Whitsun week. It is 
 now abolished. The number of 
 visitors to the Park on fine days, 
 especially fine Sundays, is some- 
 thing enormous. 
 
 The Observatory was erected in 
 1675, on the site of Duke Hum- 
 phrey's Tower, called MireJIeur, — said 
 by Hentzner to have been the 
 original of the Tower of Miraflores, 
 figuring in 'Amadis de Gaul.' The 
 remains of this romantic tower were 
 taken down by Charles EE., and 
 Flamsteed was appointed the first 
 Astronomer -Royal for the new Ob- 
 servatory. A series of eminent 
 names has followed his, including 
 those of Halley, Bradley, Maskelyne, 
 Airy, and Christie. 
 
 The Observatory is not open to the 
 public, as the frequent admission of 
 visitors would be too serious an in- 
 terruption to the labours of the staff, 
 who work there night and day. 
 Access is therefore only permitted 
 to those who have obtained an 
 'order* from the Board of Admir- 
 alty, to officers of the Royal Navy 
 and others officially connected with 
 the Admiralty, and to gentlemen 
 bearing letters of introduction to 
 the Astronomer-Royal as possessing 
 astronomical knowledge, or being 
 otherwise of high scientific charac- 
 ter ; and in these cases it is usually 
 restricted to between the hours of 
 9 a.m. and 2 p.m. The central part 
 of the building, that most in sight, 
 and which originally composed 
 almost the whole of the Observatory, 
 is now but little used for astrono- 
 mical purposes ; the principal part 
 
 D 
 
12 ROUTE 1. — GREENWICH: QUEEN ELIZABETH'S COLLEGE. 
 
 of the regular observations being 
 made in the low building on the E. 
 of the former, where is placed the 
 great transit circle for observing the 
 celestial bodies as they pass the 
 meridian, and in a revolving dome 
 above the farther end of the same 
 building which contains the altazi- 
 muth instrument for observing the 
 moon in other parts of the sky — 
 lunar observations for the purpose 
 of rectifying the tables of the moon, 
 and thereby obtaining the longitude 
 by lunar distances, being a prime 
 object at Greenwich. Other domes 
 contain the equatorial instruments, 
 the largest of which is provided with 
 an excellent spectroscope and is much 
 used for physico-astronomical obser- 
 vations ; it is placed in a large dome 
 of peculiar shape, similar to a band- 
 box, at the S.E. of the central build- 
 ing. To the S. is the range of build- 
 ing and enclosures in which all the 
 magnetical and most of the me- 
 teorological observations are carried 
 on. Part of the latter are however 
 made in a small turret on the top of 
 the central building, which contains 
 a contrivance for registering the 
 force and direction of the wind, and 
 another for marking the quantity of 
 rain that falls. On another and 
 larger turret to the E. of this, is the 
 time-ball which descends regularly 
 at i p.m., being automatically released 
 (after being raised a few minutes 
 previously) by the clock below, the 
 latter having been carefully corrected 
 by the most recent observations 
 of the stars or sun suitable for the 
 purpose (the former if of the previous 
 night are always preferred). By 
 the ball the ships in the river have 
 an opportunity of rectifying their 
 chronometers ; but by the clock 
 itself, by the aid of electricity, the 
 correct time is transmitted to many 
 other places, and a time-ball at Deal 
 is also dropped synchronously with 
 the Greenwich ball. In the lower 
 part of the building, above which is 
 the peculiar dome referred to as 
 containing the great equatorial, is a 
 chronometer room, in which not 
 
 only are the largest part of the 
 government chronometers kept and 
 rated (to be issued, when required, 
 to ships of the Royal navy), but an 
 annual competitive trial is also 
 carried on of new chronometers sent 
 by the principal makers in the king- 
 dom, who think it a great honour to 
 stand high on the Greenwich list, 
 and some of the best are afterwards 
 purchased by the Government. The 
 observations made at the Royal 
 Observatory are also carefully re- 
 duced and prepared for publication 
 there, several computers being en- 
 gaged to assist the regular staff in 
 these important operations ; and the 
 annual large volumes of observations 
 issued are afterwards made use of in 
 the Nautical Almanac and other cal- 
 culations. Outside the Observatory 
 in the walls are placed, a clock to 
 give the correct time to the public, 
 standards of length, a barometer 
 and a statement of the last maxi- 
 mum and minimum readings of the 
 thermometer. In 1890 a photogra- 
 phic refractor, with a guiding tele- 
 scope, was mounted in a dome con- 
 structed for the purpose, for taking 
 photographs of the stars. 
 
 Doorways in the E., W., and S. 
 walls of the Park open on Blackheaih. 
 (See Rte. 6.) 
 
 E. of Greenwich Hospital rises 
 Norfolk College, ded. to the Holy 
 Trinity, and marked by its square 
 central turret and low spire. It 
 was built and endowed, in 1603, by 
 Henry Earl of Northampton, younger 
 son of the Earl of Surrey, and grand- 
 son of the Duke of Norfolk ; hence 
 its name. It supports 22 poor and 
 a warden. The Mercers' Company 
 are the trustees. In the chapel, 
 consecrated 161 7, are the remains 
 and monument of the founder, re- 
 moved here in 1696 from the then 
 ruined church in Dover Castle (now 
 restored : Rte. 2). 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's College, 
 
 S.W. of the town, remarkable as 
 being the first public charity founded 
 
ROUTE I. — GREENWICH — WOOLWICH. 
 
 13 
 
 after the Reformation, was founded 
 in 1576 by Lambarde, author of 
 the Perambulation of Kent, the first 
 book of local history published in 
 England. 
 
 The roof of the old Church at 
 Greenwich, in which Hen. VIII was 
 baptized, fell in in 17 10. The pre- 
 sent building dates from 17 18 and is 
 quite uninteresting. Gen. Wolfe, 
 the conqueror of Quebec was buried 
 here in 1759, his family having re- 
 sided at Blackheath. Here is also 
 buried Lavinia Duchess of Bolton, 
 the original Polly Peachum of Gay's 
 opera. The earlier church was dedi- 
 cated to St. Alphege, Abp. of Can- 
 terbury, who, after the sack of Can- 
 terbury in 1012, was kept prisoner 
 in the Danish camp at Greenwich 
 for 7 months, and then martyred. 
 It contained monuments to Thos. 
 Tallis, the ' King's musician' (d. 
 1585^, 'father of the collegiate style,' 
 and to Lambarde the Kentish topo- 
 grapher, whose tomb was removed 
 to Sevenoaks, where it now is. 
 (Rte. 8.) 
 
 Formerly the hotels (see Index 
 and Directory) at Greenwich were 
 much frequented by parties who 
 came from London to dine there, 
 especially during the whitebait season, 
 but they have greatly decreased in 
 numbers and importance now that 
 whitebait can be procured as fresh 
 in the London shops as here. This 
 most delicate fish, one of the spe- 
 ciality of London gastronomy, is 
 found only in this part of the river, 
 near Greenwich and Blackwall be- 
 tween the months of April and 
 August. It was at one time supposed 
 to be the fry of larger fish, and the 
 catching of it was pronounced ille- 
 gal : but English ichthyologists, and 
 principally Yarrell, have proved it 
 to be a distinct species belonging to 
 the Clupeiclw (herring family), and 
 have bestowed on it the name of 
 Clupea alba ; thereby relieving lord 
 mayors and aldermen 'from the 
 awful responsibility of convicting 
 whitebait fishers in the morning, 
 
 and feasting on the " pisciculos mi- 
 nutos " in the evening.' 
 
 Leaving Greenwich, the steamers 
 touch at North Greenwich, 
 Cubitt Town, and Blackwall 
 Piers, all 1. 
 
 At Blackwall, 6| m., is the ter- 
 minus of the London and Blackwall 
 Railway, now affiliated to the G.E.R.. 
 and, close adjoining the E. India 
 Docks, especially appropriated to 
 vessels trading to India and China. 
 Vessels of 1400 tons get up to these 
 docks. 
 
 The Lea, which here, at Bow 
 Creek, falls into the Thames, forms 
 the boundary between Middlesex 
 and Essex. 
 
 The Essex or 1. bank is a tract of 
 marsh, in which, 1 m. beyond Bow 
 Creek, is the entrance of theVictoria 
 Docks ; beyond which are the Royal 
 Albert Docks ; while between the 
 docks and the river are the populous 
 districts of Silvertown and Worth 
 Woolwich, formerly parts of West 
 Ham parish, sometimes spoken of 
 as 4 London over the Border.' rt. 
 The green hills of Charlton see 
 Rte. 6) are seen, a continuation of 
 the chalk escarpment in Greenwich 
 Park ; and then appear the great 
 building-sheds of 
 
 Charlton Pier, rt. 
 
 WOOLWICH (See Route 6).— 
 Pier, rt. 9} m. 
 
 Woolwich Dockyard (no longer 
 used as such) claims, with what- 
 ever justice, to be the 'Mother 
 Dock of England.' A royal dock is 
 at all events known to have existed 
 here in 15 15 ; but Erith disputes 
 with Woolwich the honour of having 
 been the birthplace of the famous 
 'Henrye Grace de Dieu,' the ship 
 which conveyed Henry VIII. to the 
 Field of the Cloth of Gold. Gius- 
 tinian, the Venetian ambassador, 
 describes it as 'a galeas of unusual 
 magnitude, with such a number of 
 heavy guns that we doubt whether 
 
14 ROUTE 1. — WOOLWICH 
 
 — NORTH WOOLWICH. 
 
 any fortress, however strong, could 
 resist their fire/ It was, according 
 to him, launched at Erith, in October 
 1 5 1 5. The King and Queen attended 
 the launch, 1 with well-nigh all the 
 lords and prelates of the kingdom ; 
 and all dined on board at the King's 
 charge/ The cost of this ' grete 
 shippe ' was £6478 8s. of d ; and it 
 took 4 days and 400 men to work it 
 from Erith to Barking. 
 
 In 1559 Queen Elizabeth was pre- 
 sent at the launching of a very large 
 ship here, to which she gave her 
 own name. Among other celebrated 
 ships built at Woolwich was ' The 
 Royal Sovereign* (1637), called by 
 the Dutch ' The Golden Devil, ' from 
 the gilt carvings with which she 
 was covered and the active part she 
 played during the Commonwealth 
 war with Holland. The ill-fated 
 £ Royal George ' was built here in 
 I75i. 
 
 The steamer coasts along what 
 used to be Woolwich Dockyard for 
 nearly 1 m., a far more 'noble sight' 
 now than when Fielding passed it on 
 his way to Lisbon. Woolwich Dock- 
 yard is no longer used for naval 
 purposes. 
 
 Beyond the Dockyard are the 
 wharfs of the Royal Arsenal, 
 marked by their cranes for loading 
 Ordnance storeships, and by the range 
 of storehouses opposite. There is a 
 military ferry from the Arsenal to 
 Duval's Point on the opposite side 
 of the river, so that artillery may be 
 sent into the eastern counties from 
 the depot here without passing 
 through London. The river here is 
 \ m. broad. (For a full notice of 
 Woolwich see Rte. 6.) 
 
 On the Essex shore is North. 
 Woolwich, the terminus of a branch 
 of the Great Eastern Railway, and 
 the site of numerous unsavoury 
 manufactures. 
 
 At the back of Woolwich rises 
 Shooters' Hill, 446 ft. high, with the 
 tower on its summit, commemorating 
 the taking of Severndroog. 
 
 1. The little stream of the Boding 
 joins the Thames from the Essex side 
 a short distance below Woolwich. 
 A little way up it lies Barking, the 
 haven for the fishing-smacks which 
 chiefly supply London. 
 
 Near this are the outfall works, 
 &c, of the Main Drainage of London 
 N. of the Thames, and the large gas- 
 works at Beckton. 
 
 The Thames, from London to 
 Gravesend, is retained within its 
 present limits by very large embank- 
 ments, the date of which is unknown. 
 The river is several feet higher than 
 the level of the surrounding country, 
 being in effect an aqueduct, raised 
 and supported between its artificial 
 banks. These are well marked in 
 this part of its course. It has been 
 suggested that they were the work 
 of the abbeys of Stratford, in Essex, 
 and Lesness, near Erith, both of 
 which were established during the 
 12th cent. Others have given them 
 an earlier date. ' The probability 
 is that they are the work of the 
 ancient Britons, under Roman su- 
 perintendence. That they are the 
 result of skill and bold enterprise, 
 not unworthy of any period, is cer- 
 tain/ (Walker's Thames Report, 1841.) 
 On either side of the river, behind 
 these embankments, and below the 
 surface of alluvial mud, is a stratum 
 of marine deposit, indicating that a 
 wide arm of the sea once stretched 
 much farther inland than at present. 
 It was long, however, before the 
 banks effectually resisted the very 
 high tides in the river when such 
 came, and breaches were frequent. 
 In the reign of Henry VIII. the 
 marshes of Plumstead and Lesness 
 were completely drowned, and were 
 not reclaimed for a considerable 
 period. The low lands E. of Green- 
 wich were also inundated, and were 
 reclaimed by two Italians, Acontius 
 and Baptista Castilione. From this 
 time the banks on the S. side were 
 secured. On the N., breaches oc- 
 curred at Wapping and Limehouse 
 as late as the 16th cent. ; and the 
 1 Isle of Dogs was often overflowed, 
 
ROUTE 1. — NORTH 
 
 WOOLWICH — ERITH. 
 
 15 
 
 and recovered with difficulty. The 
 long bank which protects the Dagen- 
 ham and Barking levels was par- 
 ticularly liable to be burst through ; 
 by which the whole valley of the 
 Lea, as well as the rich lands along 
 the S. boundary of Essex, was fre- 
 quently laid under water. In 1621 
 a great breach here was stopped by 
 the celebrated Dutch engineer Cor- 
 nelius Vermuyden, who at the same 
 time embanked or i inned ' the whole 
 of Dagenham creek. His works, 
 however, were destroyed in 1707, 
 during the prevalence of a strong 
 N.E. wind ; and after various futile 
 attempts, the breach was finally 
 stopped in 17 15, by Captain Perry, 
 who had been for some time em- 
 ployed as an engineer in Russia by 
 the great Peter. (See, for a very 
 interesting account of Perry himself, 
 and of his operations at Dagenham, 
 Smiles's Lives of Engineers, i. ch. 5.) 
 He drained oft' the waters by sluices, 
 leaving the extensive inland lake, 
 which was long used by the Lon- 
 doners as a place for fishing and 
 aquatic recreation, but is now con- 
 verted into a dock in connexion with 
 a railway to London. 
 
 'A good idea of the formidable 
 character of the embankments ex- 
 tending along the Thames may be 
 obtained by a visit to this place 
 (Dagenham, between Woolwich and 
 Erith, but on the N. bank). Stand- 
 ing on the top of the bank, which is 
 from 40 to 50 ft. above the river 
 level at low water, we see on one 
 side the Thames, with its shipping, 
 high above the inland level when 
 the tide is up, and the still lake of 
 Dagenham and the far extending 
 fiats on the other — at once giving 
 an idea of the gigantic traffic which 
 flows along this great watery high- 
 way, and the enormous labour which 
 it has cost to bank up the lands and 
 confine the river within its present 
 artificial limits. These formidable 
 embankments, winding along the 
 river-side, up creeks and tributary 
 streams, round islands and about 
 marshes, from London to the mouth 
 
 of the Thames, are not less than 
 300 m. in extent/ — Lives of Engineers, 
 i. 5- 
 
 rt. Nearly opposite Dagenham 
 breach is Crossness, where the great 
 works of the London South Main 
 Drainage are placed ; and somewhat 
 further E. the site of the Erith pow- 
 der-magazines, which exploded with 
 such destructive effect, Oct. 1, 1864. 
 The land now begins to rise, on the 
 Kentish shore, and we reach 
 
 ERITH.— Pier, rt. i6| m. 
 
 Erith (Sax. o?rre-hythe, the old 
 haven) is rapidly losing its former 
 character of a pretty rural village, 
 and becoming a riverside town (pop. 
 13,411). The claim of Erith to be the 
 place where King Henry's great 
 ship was built has already been 
 noticed. Erith Church (not now 
 4 Erith's ivied spire,' as sung by 
 Bloomfield, slates having been sub- 
 stituted) is picturesquely placed 
 under the rising bank. It contains 
 portions ranging from E. E. to Perp., 
 and is interesting in spite of much 
 disfiguration. There are some good 
 brasses, the earliest being for Roger 
 Sender, i serviens Abbatis et Con- 
 ventus de Lesens* (Lesness\ 1425; 
 and for John Aylmer and wife, 1435. 
 There is also an elaborate altar-tomb 
 with effigy, for Elizabeth Countess 
 Of Shrewsbury, d. 1568 ; and in the 
 chancel an indifferent monument by 
 Chantrey to the late Lord Eardley. 
 In this ch., the year after the grant 
 of Magna Charta, a meeting took 
 place between Hubert de Burgh and 
 others on the King's part, and cer- 
 tain of the Barons, with the view of 
 effecting a final peace, which the 
 Great Charter had not as yet brought 
 about. Weaver the antiquary, who 
 has preserved so many monumental 
 inscriptions, held the rectory of 
 Erith temp. Jas. I. ; and Francis 
 Thynne, the herald, was a native. 
 There is a large Public Hall and a 
 Cottage Hospital, both built in 187 1. 
 
 W. of the town is an immense 
 
16 
 
 ROUTE 1. — ERITH — STONE. 
 
 sand-pit, with about 40 ft. of Perp. 
 frontage, full of interest for the geo- 
 logist. Below the sand may be 
 traced the bed of ironstone and 
 clay which around London is gene- 
 rally found to rest on the chalk, here 
 seen below. In the clay here bones 
 and tusks of elephants and other 
 mammals have been found. Some 
 rare plants occur in the neighbour- 
 ing marshes. 
 
 Among the trees at the top of the 
 hill, and seen from the river, appears 
 the prospect tower of Belvedere (late 
 the seat of Sir Culling Eardley, and 
 now a home for disabled seamen). 
 
 The house is a large brick man- 
 sion, commanding a fine view over 
 the Thames and its shipping. The 
 collection of pictures here was dis- 
 persed in 1859 ; and the park is now 
 occupied by clusters of villa resi- 
 dences. 
 
 [A pleasant excursion may be 
 made by landing at Erith, visiting 
 the ch., and then walking to Wool- 
 wich by the lower road, 5 m., seeing 
 Lesness Abbey by the way (see 
 Rte. 6), and returning to London by 
 railway. ' The variety of the scenery 
 along this road is very great, alter- 
 nating with the beauties of hills, 
 flats, and water. Among the wind- 
 ings of the road, the foliage and un- 
 even ground, with their grand and 
 massive depths of colour, present 
 you with a picture after the taste of 
 Gaspar Poussin. In a few paces the 
 view changes to an open reach of 
 the Thames, all in breezy motion 
 with vessels, and Vandevelde thrusts 
 out Poussin ; Vandevelde in his 
 turn gives way to Cuyp, as you come 
 upon the flat sprinkled with cattle, 
 and lighted up with broad beams of 
 sunshine/ — Felix Summerley.~] 
 
 Close to Erith Pier public gardens 
 have been formed along the bank of 
 the river, but the trees and flowers 
 are not very attractive. 
 
 About a mile lower we come to 
 the mouth of Dartford Creek, oppo- 
 
 site to which rise the chalk and sand 
 cliffs of 
 
 Purfleet, formed by excavations 
 in the chalk resembling those at 
 Northfleet (see post). Beacon Hill, 
 immediately above the village, is 
 high and picturesque. Queen Eliza- 
 beth, whose chance words are said 
 to have given names to many places 
 in this neighbourhood, has the re- 
 putation of having thus named Pur- 
 fleet ; a corruption, says tradition, 
 of ' Oh my poor fleet ! ' her Majesty's 
 gracious exclamation when looking 
 from this spot on her ships depart- 
 ing to encounter the Armada. The 
 fleet, however, both here and at 
 Northfieet, is the trench or cut 
 ting through which the water from 
 the marshes flows into the Thames. 
 
 The low grey buildings -seen here 
 are the Government powder maga- 
 zines, established in 1759, when 
 they were removed from Greenwich, 
 the inhabitants of which place pe- 
 titioned against them as dangerous. 
 They are capable of containing 30,000 
 barrels of powder. The roofs are 
 vaulted, and the doors, &c, copper- 
 fastened. 
 
 A great number of merchant ves- 
 sels and colliers are always to be seen 
 lying off Erith and Purfleet. Only 
 a fixed number are admitted at once 
 to the Upper or Lower Pool, or the 
 docks, and those in waiting ' bide 
 their time ' here and at Gravesend. 
 
 The river Darenth (or Dartford 
 Creek), which falls into the Thames 
 opposite Purfleet, is navigable as 
 high as Dartford (about 3 m.), 
 having received its tributary, the 
 Cray, below the town. Dartford 
 Creek was formerly famous for its 
 salmon fishery ; to the great comfort 
 of the Dartford nuns, whose purse 
 and table were alike benefited 
 thereby. 
 
 Stone. — The *Church, dedicated 
 to St. Mary, rt., on its hillock, is the 
 next landmark. 'It is a common 
 jest,' writes Reginald Scot (temp. 
 Eliz.), i among the watermen of the 
 
ROUTE 1. 
 
 Thames to show the parish ch. of 
 Stone to the passengers, calling the 
 same by the name of the * lanterne 
 of Kent ' ; affirming, and that not 
 untruly, that the said ch. is as light 
 (meaning in weight and not in 
 brightnesse) at midnight as at noon- 
 day.' — Disc, of Witchcraft. The ch., 
 which, is for the most part of late 
 E. E. character, is of very great 
 interest and importance ; it was 
 built from the offerings at the shrine 
 of St. William at Rochester, and has 
 v i860) been most carefully restored 
 under the direction of G. E. Street, 
 who has printed an elaborate account 
 of it in Archceologia Cantiana, iii. The 
 chancel, nave, aisles, and western 
 tower, are E. E. ; and were probably 
 built during the episcopate of Laur- 
 ence de St. Martin (Bp. of Rochester 
 1 251-74"). In the 14th cent, the 
 vestry N. of the chancel was added, 
 and the windows at the W. end of 
 the nave and aisles were inserted. 
 The tower piers were also altered at 
 this time. In the 16th cent, the 
 Wilshyre Chantry, forming the N. 
 chancel aisle, was added. Outside, 
 the ch. is remarkable for having the 
 chancel roof higher than that of the 
 nave, which, added to the somewhat 
 stunted appearance of the tower 
 (which is increased by the proximity 
 of the staircase-buttress on the W. 
 side;, gives the building an ungainly 
 appearance, which hardly prepares 
 the visitor for the beauties within. 
 The N. aisle door deserves notice for 
 its rich detail and peculiar character ; 
 but the chevron, which occurs on it, 
 is no doubt a curious instance of 
 imitation of earlier work, rather than 
 evidence of the doorway itself being 
 earlier than the rest of the church/ 
 — 6r. E. S. Inside the church 4 the 
 most remarkable feature in the de- 
 sign is the way in which the whole 
 of the work gradually increases in 
 richness of detail and in beauty from 
 W. to E.' The window in the eastern 
 bay of the N. aisle is especially good. 
 The E. window of this aisle, as well 
 as one in the chancel, is cut in two 
 by the roof of the Wilshyre chantry, 
 
 — STONE. 17 
 
 into which the lower part of each 
 opens. The chancel arch is sur- 
 rounded by a band of very rich foli- 
 age, and has 2 quatrefoils above it 
 on either side, within which are 
 carved beautiful combinations of 
 foliage, arranged in the form of a 
 cross. A wall arcade on marble 
 shafts passes entirely round the 
 chancel ; and has its spandrels ' filled 
 in with sculptured foliage, so beauti- 
 ful and delicate in its execution, and 
 so nervous and vigorous in its de- 
 sign,' that, according to Mr. Street, 
 ; it may safely be pronounced to be 
 among the very best sculpture of the 
 age that we have in this country.' 
 The groined roof of the chancel has 
 been restored, as have the chancel 
 windows ; but in strict accordance 
 with the original designs. The glass 
 in the E. window, forming a me- 
 morial to Archdeacon King, who was 
 long rector here, is by Wailes. The 
 windows in the N. aisle illustrate 
 the miracles of Our Lord ; those in 
 the S. aisle, the parables. All are by 
 Wailes. On the chancel floor are 
 brasses: for John Lumbarde, rector, 
 1408 (a small effigy in the head of a 
 cross), and Anne Carew 16th cent. 
 The N. aisle wall retains some 
 ancient painting. The most impor- 
 tant figure is that of the Blessed 
 Virgin nursing the Infant Saviour. 
 In the Wilshyre chantry is the 
 tomb of Sir John Wilshyre, Con- 
 troller of the town and marches of 
 Calais, temp. Henry VIII., who was 
 visited at his stately house of Stone 
 Place, in 1527, by Cardinal Wolsey, 
 when on his way to France ; but as 
 the Cardinal's retinue consisted of 
 not less than 900 persons, many of 
 them were obliged to repair to Dart- 
 ford for shelter for the night. Also 
 a quaint 16th cent, tablet with rhym- 
 ing inscription, commencing 4 The 
 corpes of Robert Chapma squyer is 
 buryed in this tombe.' This chapel 
 is now, unfortunately, occupied by 
 the organ and the choristers' vestry. 
 
 The chief portion of Westminster 
 Abbey was built at the same time 
 as Stone Church ; and from the-great 
 
18 
 
 ROUTE 1. — GREENHITHE — NORTHFLEET. 
 
 similarity between the two works, 
 Mr. Street suggests that the archi- 
 tect of both was the same man. 
 The points of resemblance are — the 
 arcades round the chapels of the 
 choir at Westminster and that at 
 Stone ; the window tracery ; the 
 sculpture of foliage ; the materials, 
 which are the same in both, Caen 
 and Galton stone for the wrought 
 stonework, marble shafts, and chalk 
 for wall-lining and groining ; and 
 lastly, the same general system of 
 proportion. Portions of the work 
 will also be found to resemble Lin- 
 coln Cathedral. From the early part 
 of the 13th cent. Stone belonged to 
 the Bps. of Rochester, who had a 
 manor-house here, on the road be- 
 tween their cathedral and London. 
 At Littlebrook, 1 m. N. W. of Stone, are 
 the remains of a wall or embank- 
 ment supposed to be of Saxon origin : 
 and perhaps the same that is men- 
 tioned in a deed of Ethelred, a. d. 
 995. Stone may also be visited from 
 
 2i| m. G-reenhithe, rt., from 
 which it is distant about 1 m. Here, 
 and at other points on either bank, 
 are numerous chalk- pits and cut- 
 tings, some of which are of great 
 antiquity. The chalk worked 
 throughout this part of Kent is con- 
 verted into lime on the spot, and 
 sent to London and elsewhere for 
 building and manuring purposes. 
 Greenhithe, where there is a pier, 
 derives its principal importance from 
 this chalk traffic. Beyond the vil- 
 lage the green lawns of Ingress Abbey 
 (S. C. Umfreville, Esq.), once the 
 seat of the well-known Alderman 
 Harmer, stretch pleasantly down to 
 the waterside. Ingress was a grange 
 attached to the Priory of Dartford. 
 The present house was partly built 
 with stones from Old London Bridge. 
 This place belonged for some time to 
 the father and grandfather of Sir 
 Henry Havelock, although the hero 
 of Lucknow was not born here as 
 has sometimes been asserted, but at 
 Bishopswearmouth, on April 5, 1795. 
 
 From Greenhithe, June 19, 1845, 
 
 the ' Erebus ' and c Terror/ under Sir 
 John Franklin and Captain Crozier, 
 sailed on their last fatal expedition — 
 the 58th for the exploration of the 
 Polar Seas despatched from England ; 
 and from here the iron-plated 'War- 
 rior ' started on her first voyage, 
 Sept. 1861 Off Greenhithe lies the 
 Worcester training-ship, used as a nau- 
 tical training college, in which about 
 160 pupils, sons of gentlemen, re- 
 ceive a nautical education. 
 
 Besides Stone, Crayford, Dartford, 
 and Swanscombe (see Rte. 6) lie at 
 easy distances inland from Green- 
 hithe, and afford very pretty walks 
 and drives. 
 
 On the 1. bank, which has become 
 rather more interesting below Pur- 
 fleet, the long irregular street of 
 
 23! m. Gray's Thurrock appears 
 opposite Greenhithe. It has a trade 
 in bricks, which are made here. 
 One of the branches of the i Gray ' 
 family formerly held, and gave name 
 to, the manor. The modern Gothic 
 building at the back of the town is 
 Belmont Castle (R. Webb, Esq.). 
 At Little Thurrock are some of 
 those remarkable excavations in the 
 chalk, also found at E. Tilbury (see 
 post), Dartford, and other places ad- 
 joining the Thames. They are here 
 called 4 Dane Holes,' or L Cunobe- 
 line's Gold Mines.' 
 
 We are now in ' Fiddler's Reach ' ; 
 so named perhaps from the irregular 
 swell of the water, called by seamen 
 i fiddling.' The tourist may how- 
 ever, if he prefers it, adopt a tradition 
 which asserts that three fiddlers 
 were once drowned here. 
 
 At !N"orthfleet, rt., closely adjoin- 
 ing Gravesend, remark the singular 
 masses of chalk along the bank, now 
 covered with brushwood. These 
 have been left during the excava- 
 tions, as not containing chalk of 
 good quality, and the result is very 
 picturesque. Advantage has been 
 taken of these excavations in form- 
 ing the Rosherville Gardens (so named 
 from their first proprietor, Jeremiah 
 Rosher), which lie between North- 
 
KOUTE 1. — ROSHERVILLE PIER — GRAVESEND. 19 
 
 fleet and Gravesend, and have be- 
 come a favourite resort. Some of 
 the cliffs in these gardens are up- 
 wards of 150 ft. high. 
 
 Rosherville Pier, rt. 
 
 Much chalk is still burnt here, 
 and lime is exported from the works 
 to Holland and Flanders. Flints 
 from the chalk-pits are sent not only 
 to Staffordshire, for the use of the 
 potteries, but even to China for 
 similar purposes. Chalk fossils, 
 chiefly echinites and glosso-petrae 
 (sharks' teeth), abound. There is 
 a large yard for shipbuilding at 
 Northfleet, and a dock, excavated in 
 the solid chalk, which will hold 6 or 
 7 large ships. In the church, which 
 is one of the largest in Kent, and of 
 much interest, are some good brasses : 
 Peter de Lacy, rector, 1375 ; Will. 
 Lye, rector, 1391 ; Wm. Rikhill and 
 wife, 1433. The tower of this ch. is 
 said to have afforded so conspicuous 
 a mark to pirates and other ' water 
 thieves ' sailing up the river, that it 
 was thought necessary to make it a 
 fortress, like many of the church 
 towers on the English borders. It 
 has been partly rebuilt ; but the 
 steps which lead from the church- 
 yard to the first floor are probably 
 connected with its early defences. A 
 similar stair running under the N. 
 wall of the tower occurs at Roches- 
 ter. The ancient sedilia have been 
 restored, and an E. window to the 
 memory of H.R.H. the Prince Con- 
 sort has been inserted. Southfleet, 
 surrounded by orchards, 2] m. S. 
 from Northfleet, has a pictur- 
 esque church and churchyard. In 
 the former are a brass, in memory 
 of Joan, wife of John Urban, 14 15 ; 
 and an altar tomb to John and 
 Elizabeth Sedley, 1500. At Spring- 
 head, famed for its watercresses, 
 possibly the Roman station of Vag- 
 niacae, partly in this parish and 
 partly in Northfleet, numerous 
 Roman remains have been found, 
 among them the remains of a family 
 cemetery. See Archceologia Cantiana, 
 vol. xviii. 
 
 On an eminence near Stone Bridge, 
 and seen from the river is Huggens 
 College, founded by John Huggens, 
 Esq., of Sittingbourne, and consist- 
 ing of 40 residences for decayed 
 gentle people ; a chapel with a lofty 
 spire is attached. The founder is 
 buried in the churchyard. 
 
 GRAVESEND.— Pier, rt. 26 m. 
 
 Gravesend (Pop. 24,067), which 
 almost forms one town with 
 Northfleet, is almost a place of 
 considerable importance, since it 
 occupies the first rising ground 
 after entering the river, the passage 
 up which it to some extent com- 
 mands. Only a hijthe, or landing- 
 place, is mentioned here in Domes- 
 day, but the town grew up about it 
 soon after the Conquest. Outward- 
 bound ships lie here to complete 
 their cargoes, and here the early 
 voyagers assembled their little fleets, 
 as Sebastian Cabot in 1553, and 
 Martin Frobisher in 1576 ; the queen, 
 ' as their pinnaces passed Greenwich, 
 having bade them farewell with 
 shaking her hand at them out of 
 the window.' The town was incor- 
 porated by Elizabeth, and received 
 for arms (which it still retains) a 
 boat steered by a hedgehog, the 
 latter being the device of Sir Henry 
 Sidney, steward of the royal honour 
 of Otford, in which Gravesend is 
 situated. The right of conveying 
 passengers to and from London was 
 from a very early period attached to 
 the manor, and was confirmed by 
 Richard II. after the town had been 
 burnt by the French in 1377. All 
 eminent strangers arriving by water 
 were received here by the Lord 
 Mayor, Aldermen, and City Com- 
 panies, and conducted up the river 
 in state ; processions which, ' in 
 days when the silent Thames de- 
 served its name, and the sun could 
 shine down upon it out of the blue 
 summer sky, were spectacles scarce- 
 ly rivalled in gorgeousness by 
 the world-famous weddings of the 
 Adriatic/ —Fronde. 
 
 Gravesend at present contains little 
 
20 ROUTE 1. — GRAVE SEND — TILBURY FORT. 
 
 to interest the tourist. The town 
 consists of an older portion, chiefly 
 narrow and dirty lanes near the 
 river, and a new quarter, S. of the 
 London road, and W. of the old town, 
 composed of streets and squares due 
 to the facilities of transport between 
 this place and London, afforded by 
 the railway and the numerous 
 steamers. Two piers, Rosherville Pier 
 and West Street Pier have been erected 
 to facilitate the landing of passen- 
 gers, the first erection of which was 
 violently opposed by the watermen 
 of the place, who had previously 
 gained a livelihood by transporting 
 passengers from the vessels to the 
 shore in boats. One of the piers 
 was destroyed by them at night, but 
 the damage was quickly repaired, 
 and the watermen punished. The 
 other new buildings are a Market, 
 Theatre, Library, Assembly Rooms, 
 and 
 
 The Baths, an extensive range 
 of buildings by the river-side, a 
 little to the W. of the town, contain- 
 ing hot, cold, and vapour baths. 
 Bathing machines are provided on 
 the shore. The saltness of the water 
 here is the leading article of a 
 Gravesender's creed, and indeed, if 
 not as salt as the sea, it is considered 
 sufficiently so for all bathing pur- 
 poses. Adjoining the baths is a 
 garden laid out with agreeable walks, 
 and furnished with seats. 
 
 The parish church of Gravesend 
 has been twice burnt ; and the exist- 
 ing building dates from 1731, when 
 it was dedicated to St. George, ' in 
 compliment to the King's name,' says 
 Hasted. Beneath the chancel of the 
 older ch. was buried Pocahontas, the 
 Virginian 'princess,' who saved the 
 life of Captain Smith, and who, 
 after her baptism, became the wife 
 of Thomas Hrolf, one of the first 
 adventurers to Virginia. She died 
 1 6 16, of the small-pox, aged 21, off 
 Plymouth Harbour, and was brought 
 to Gravesend for interment. St. 
 James' Church was erected in 1852. 
 
 In 1 793 Mr. Ralph Dod attempted 
 for the first time to carry a ' drift- 
 way ' for foot-passengers beneath the 
 Thames at this point. He had pro- 
 ceeded but a short way however 
 before the water burst in, and put an 
 end to the undertaking. Vessels 
 entering or quitting the Thames 
 here take on board pilots. 
 
 The town of Gravesend stretches 
 up the hill-side, from the top of 
 which there are good views over the 
 Thames. The best point is Windmill 
 Hill. 
 
 For communication by S. E. Rly. 
 see Rte. 6 ; there is an alternative 
 route by L. C. D. R., branching from 
 the main line at Farningham Road, 
 and passing Southfleet and Rosher- 
 ville. The town may also be reached 
 by ferry from Tilbury Rly. Pier. (See 
 Handbook for the Eastern Coun- 
 ties). 
 
 Closely adjoining Gravesend, E., is 
 Milton, where is a late Dec. church 
 (restored). The sedilia are of good 
 design, and the corbels of the ori- 
 ginal roof are worth notice. Some 
 remains of a chantry, founded by 
 Aymer de Valence, about 1322, 
 adjoin the Parsonage House. The 
 site is now appropriated to the ser- 
 vice of the Board of Ordnance. Near 
 Milton are the large Children's 
 Home at Parrock Hall, and Milton Hall 
 (within the grounds of which is a 
 museum of antiquities), the seat of 
 G. M. Arnold, Esq. 
 
 At Gravesend is the entrance of 
 the Thames and Medway Canal, 
 which originally opened into the 
 latter river opposite Chatham. It 
 was completed in 1824, but was un- 
 successful, and was at length pur- 
 chased by the S. E. Rly. Company, 
 when some portion of its course was 
 adopted for their N. Kent line. A 
 part still remains open, and is used 
 as docks. 
 
 1. The historical associations con- 
 nected with Tilbury Fort on 
 the opposite bank, are among the 
 
ROUTE 1. — GRAVESEND— TILBURY. 
 
 21 
 
 most interesting of the Thames. 
 Some kind of fortification here is 
 mentioned as early as 1402 ; but the 
 first block- house at Tilbury was 
 erected by Henry VIII in 1539, when 
 the line of forts along the S.E. coasts 
 including those at Deal and Wal- 
 nier) was also completed under fear 
 of an immediate invasion. At the 
 time of the Armada, Henry VIII. 's 
 fort was strengthened by fortifica- 
 tions, designed by the Italian 
 engineer Giani belli, the inventor of 
 the famous fire-ships which all but 
 destroyed Parma's bridge across the 
 Scheldt during the siege of Antwerp 
 in 1585 (see Motley's United Nether- 
 lands, chap, v.) ; and the recollection 
 of which created so great a panic 
 among the ships of the Armada as 
 they lay off Calais on the night of 
 Sunday, July 28, 1588. I Motley, 
 chap, xix.) Gianibelli, a Mantuan 
 by birth, had 'gone from Italy to 
 Spain that he might offer his ser- 
 vices to Philip, and give him the 
 benefit of many original and in- 
 genious inventions/ He was kept long 
 in attendance, and at length de- 
 parted indignant, i vowing that, the 
 next time the Spaniards heard the 
 name of the man they had daied to 
 deride, they should hear it with 
 tears ' ; a vow amply fulfilled at 
 Antwerp and off Calais. ' A mighty 
 army ' was encamped at Tilbury, ' as 
 it was given out that the enemy 
 meant to invade the Thames.' 
 (Hakluyt.) The 4 mighty army ' con- 
 sisted of 10,000 men, and some 
 traces of the camp in which they 
 were assembled under the Earl of 
 Leicester still remain near the ch. 
 of West Tilbury, at some little dis- 
 tance from the river. It was here 
 that ' Great Gloriana * reviewed her 
 troops in person, riding through the 
 camp, and exciting them by words 
 as well as brave looks. After the ap- 
 pearance of the Dutch fleet in the 
 river in 1667, it was determined to 
 erect a regular fortification at 
 Tilbury. This has been strengthened 
 from time to time, and it now forms 
 one of the main defences for the 
 
 entrance of the Thames. It is 
 encompassed by a deep wide fosse, 
 and on its ramparts are several 
 formidable batteries of heavy ord- 
 nance, mostly toward the river. 
 The garrison have it in their power 
 to lay the whole surrounding level 
 under water, thus adding not a little 
 to the strength of their defences. 
 Strangers are admitted to the fortifi- 
 cation on application to the resident 
 governor. West of Tilbury are the 
 large, recently - opened Tilbury 
 Docks, built to accommodate the in- 
 creasing amount of shipping which 
 seeks the port cf London. 
 
 In a chalk pit, near the village of 
 E. Tilbury, are numerous excava- 
 tions called ' Danes' Holes/ which 
 resemble those at Dartford and else- 
 where in the neighbourhood of the 
 river, and are of great interest. A 
 horizontal passage is said to lead 
 from these caverns to others re- 
 sembling them at Chad well, near 
 Little Thurrock. The entrance is 
 from above, by narrow circular pas- 
 sages, which widen below, and com- 
 municate with numerous apart- 
 ments, all of regular forms. The 
 size and depth vary. 
 
 Similar excavations, though appa- 
 rently formed with greater regular- 
 ity, exist in the chalk and tufa on 
 either bank of the Somme, as high 
 as Peronne in the diocese of Amiens. 
 They have been traced in more than 
 30 parishes ; and there is every 
 reason to believe that, if not ori- 
 ginally formed, they were enlarged 
 and rendered available, during the 
 1 furor Normannorum ' of the 10th 
 cent. In many cases these < souter- 
 rains ' have a communication with 
 the parish ch. ; a fact to which a 
 portion of the district seems in- 
 debted for the title of ' Territorium 
 sanctae liberationis ' which it bore in 
 the 12th cent. The tradition of the 
 country still asserts that these 
 caverns were used for the retreat 
 and concealment of the inhabitants 
 in time of war, whence their ordi- 
 nary name — 6 les souterrains des 
 guerres/ There is no trace what- 
 
22 
 
 ROUTE 1. — GKAVESEND— LEIGH. 
 
 ever of their having served as cata- 
 combs, which indeed their arrange- 
 ment seems altogether to contradict. 
 (For an interesting notice of them, 
 and a plan of one of the largest, see 
 Mem de VAcad. des Inscrip., t. xxvii.) 
 The Thames was haunted by the 
 galleys of the Northmen not less 
 frequently than the Somme ; and it 
 is very probable that the excavations 
 adjoining, and on the banks of, our 
 own river, may have served a similar 
 purpose. The name here given to 
 them, 4 Danes' Holes,' is at least a 
 proof of the lasting impression made 
 by these sea-rovers. It seems highly 
 probable that these excavations were 
 hiding-places for grain and fodder.. 
 An interesting paper on the subject 
 is to be found in the Archceologia 
 Cantiana, vol. xviii. p. 317. 
 
 The width of the Thames at 
 Gravesend is more than \ mile, 
 and the depth at low water about 
 48 ft. Notwithstanding this, the 
 bank at Higham, 2 m. below Graves- 
 end, is one of the points which have 
 been fixed upon as the scene of the 
 fording of the Thames by Aulus 
 Plautius, the lieutenant of Claudius, 
 a.d. 43. There is, however, not the 
 slightest proof that the estuary here 
 was ever more fordable than at pre- 
 sent, and the conjecture may there- 
 fore be dismissed without much 
 hesitation. Dr. Guest {Proceedings 
 of Arch. Inst., 1866) suggests, with 
 much probability, that Plautius 
 landed on the N. bank of the Thames, 
 and forded the Lea, at or near the 
 present Stratford. 
 
 The river widens rapidly below 
 Gravesend, as it forms i The Hope, ' 
 the last of its many reaches, but the 
 flat banks on either side have few 
 points of interest beyond the formid- 
 able fortifications at Coalhouse Point 
 on the Essex, and at Shornmead on 
 the Kentish shore, which are armed 
 with the heaviest ordnance, and 
 furnished with torpedoes. 
 
 1. The tower of Stanford-le- 
 Hope is seen, and, more distant, the 
 spire of Corringham. To those in- 
 
 terested in bells and belfries a visit 
 to the tower of Stanford-le-Hope 
 church will prove interesting. 
 Notice the bell-frame. 
 
 1. At Hole or Thames Haven, 
 
 where is a branch rly. from Stanford- 
 le-Hope, and a pier, supplies of 
 lobsters from the Norwegian and 
 Scottish coasts are deposited, for 
 conveyance up the river. 
 
 The ancient importance of the 
 tract from Higham to the Isle of 
 Grain is attested by the many 
 (mostly small) churches, Norm, and 
 E. E., which are scattered over it. 
 (See Kte. 6.) 
 
 1. Canvey Island consists entirely 
 of marshland, about 3500 acres, and 
 is banked in all round. It is about 
 5 m. long, and is a great sheep- 
 pasture. Camden has -fixed on 
 Canvey as the Counnenos of Ptolemy, 
 placed by Baxter at the Isle of 
 Dogs. Off Canvey notice the screw- 
 pile lighthouse on the Chapman 
 Sand. 
 
 Beyond Canvey Island, 1., is seen 
 the Perp. Church of Leigh, with 
 its little village, mainly occupied 
 by persons engaged in the oyster 
 and shrimp fisheries, for which the 
 mouth of the Thames is famous. 
 The shore at Leigh is found to be 
 well adapted for the formation of 
 oyster * nurseries/ in which the 
 jelly-like spawn, brought from beds 
 at considerable distances, including 
 the 4 Rocher de Cancale ' on the 
 coast of France, is laid to grow and 
 fatten. 
 
 1. A short distance below Leigh is 
 a low obelisk called the Crow Stone, 
 or London Stone ; which originally 
 marked the eastern limit of the 
 Lord Mayor's jurisdiction as 4 Con- 
 servator of the river.' From this 
 stone there is a good view of the 
 ruins of Hadleigh Castle, called the 
 4 Tower of Essex/ and built by 
 Hubert de Burgh, temp. Hen. III. 
 (See Handbook for Eastern Coun- 
 ties.) 
 
BOUTE 1. — SOUTHEND — HERNE BAY. 
 
 23 
 
 1. The shrubberies and long pier 
 of Southend* (40 m.) are next seen. 
 The pier, i|m. in extent, has a 
 tramway on it for conveyance of 
 passengers from the steamers which 
 touch here. The town was formerly 
 very small and quiet — 'a mere 
 shrimp of a sea-town ; Erith is a 
 mighty lobster compared to it ; ' — 
 but since the opening of the rly. 
 from London a handsome suburb 
 (Clifftown) has sprung up. It has 
 the advantage of being the sea- 
 bathing place nearest to London. 
 The view of the entrance of the 
 Thames, alive with vessels, and the 
 open sea beyond, is very fine, and 
 the surrounding country is pleasant. 
 (See Handbook for Eastern Coun- 
 ties.) 
 
 Beyond Southend the railway 
 continues to Shoeburyness, where 
 artillery experiments are carried on. 
 
 The 1 marriage of the Thames and 
 Medway ' takes place off the Isle of 
 Grain, Sheerness (see Rte. 13) 
 marking the entrance of the latter 
 river. 
 
 On the Isle of Grain is Port 
 Victoria, to which there is a branch 
 line of rail from Gravesend — and 
 whence there are steamers to Sheer- 
 ness. A line of steamers has been 
 projected from Port Victoria to the 
 Continent: and royal travellers have 
 on several occasions availed them- 
 selves of this route to London. The 
 Channel between the Isle of Grain 
 and the mainland was formerly part 
 of the water way from London to 
 Dover — the route continuing by way 
 of the Swale, and the Wantsume 
 v between Thanet and the mainland). 
 
 On the Nore Sand (41 m.\ at 
 the mouth of the Thames, is fixed 
 the famous light-vessel which guides 
 all the shipping of the world in and 
 out of the port of London. Like 
 many other lights on the English 
 coast, it was first placed here by 
 private enterprise ; a Mr. Hamblin, 
 in 1 73 1, having obtained a patent 
 for 4 an improved distinguish- 
 able light,' proved it on board 
 
 a vessel called the 1 Experiment/ 
 which he moored on this sand. 
 Its benefits were at once ob- 
 vious, and the ' Nore Light ' was 
 soon afterwards placed under the 
 control of the Trinity House. The 
 breadth of the Thames estuary at 
 the Nore is 6 m. 
 
 We are now fairly in the German 
 Ocean, the Essex coast trending 
 away northward (observe, 3 m. below 
 Southend, the dreary beach of Shoe- 
 buryness, the scene of the 4 Battle of 
 the Guns '), but the long line of that 
 of Kent still extending S. and E. 
 The cliffs of Sheppey ending at 
 Warden Point, gradually under- 
 mined by the waves, are here con- 
 spicuous. In sight are the churches 
 of Minster and Warden ; the 
 greater part of the latter parish has 
 yielded to the advance of the waves. 
 The cliffs, like the whole of the 
 island, are masses of London clay. 
 (For Sheppey see Rte. 13.) 
 
 rt. Beyond the Swale, which 
 separates Sheppey from the main- 
 land, the ancient town of Whit- 
 stable ^Rte. 5) is seen, famous for 
 its oyster fisheries (an attempt to 
 introduce the French mode of 
 ' culture ' is now in progress) ; its 
 courageous divers, who visit every 
 part of the coast to recover valuable 
 cargo from wrecks ; and its colliers, 
 which from this point supply the 
 greater part of E. Kent. Between 
 Whitstable and the E. extremity of 
 Foulness Island on the Essex coast, 
 the tideway has a breadth of 18 m. 
 
 Heme Bay possesses a pier and 
 clock-tower, and 1 m. westward, 
 there is a breakwater where goods 
 are landed, and by means of a tram- 
 way are placed on the London, 
 Chatham, and Dover Railway. Next 
 the twin spires of Reeulver 
 (Rte. 5) appear cresting the low 
 clay cliff. As we near Margate this 
 is replaced by the more bold and 
 picturesque chalk. The handsome 
 tower of St. Nicholas-at-Wade, 
 the spire of Birchington, and the 
 
24 
 
 ROUTE 2. EDENBRIDGE — HEVER CASTLE. 
 
 Waterloo Column in Quex Park, come 
 in sight in succession, and we reach 
 at 
 
 72 m. MARGATE. (Ete. 7.) 
 
 ROUTE 2. 
 
 LONDON TO DOVER, BY TUN- 
 BRIDGE, ASHFORD [HYTHE 
 AND SANDGATEj, AND FOLKE- 
 STONE. THE CINQUE PORTS. 
 
 ( S. E. Rly. and L. B. & S. C. Ely). 
 
 The quickest way to Tun- 
 bridge and Dover is by the direct 
 line through Sevenoaks (Ete. 8), 
 avoiding Eedhill. Distance from 
 Charing Cross to Dover, via Sevenoaks, 
 76 m. ; via Eedhill, 89 m. 
 
 The S. E. E. Co.'s trains start from 
 the Charing Cross terminus, and call 
 at Waterloo, Cannon-street and London 
 Bridge. Thence they proceed by 
 New Cross, Croydon, and Merstham, 
 to Eedhill, where the line, hitherto 
 running S., sweeps round eastward 
 in the direction of Kent, passes God- 
 stone (Handbook for Surrey) and 
 continues as straight as a Roman 
 road to Ashford. 
 
 4 m. beyond Godstone we enter 
 the county of Kent. 1 m. further 
 we reach, 
 
 33 m. (from Charing Cross) 
 
 Edenbridge (Stat.). 
 
 The town (Pop. 2,184) lies S. Jm. ; 
 it has a monthly corn-market, and 
 chalybeate springs, probably as 
 potent as those of Tunbridge Wells, 
 but not so well known. The large 
 eft., mainly Perp., has some remains 
 of painted glass, and a Brass to John 
 Selyard, of Brasted, 15,58, and an 
 altar tomb to the Martin family 
 1458 and other ancient memorials. 
 
 There is another and more direct 
 route to Edenbridge by the L f B. & 
 S.C. Ely., via Croydon and Oxted : 
 
 the line entering the county about 
 2 miles N.W. of Edenbridge, and 
 continuing on to Tunbridge Wells. 
 By this route Edenbridge is 31 miles 
 from London. S.E. Ely. trains also 
 run direct from Croydon to Eden- 
 bridge : avoiding the detour by 
 Eedhill. The two stations are a 
 mile apart. 
 
 HEVER CASTLE *, 1 m. from 
 Hever Station, and 3 m. from Eden- 
 bridge, is interesting from its asso- 
 ciations with Henry VIII. and Anne 
 Boleyn, and quite as much so from 
 its affording an excellent specimen 
 of the later castellated mansion. 
 The castle, which stands close by 
 the river, forms a quadrangle of mo- 
 derate size, with high-pitched roofs 
 and gables, and is surrounded by a 
 double moat, fed from the Eden. A 
 gatehouse with two (restored) port- 
 cullises forms the S. front, and con- 
 tains a large room in which are 
 some questionable Tudor relics, and 
 some portraits of the Waldo family. 
 The rest of the building is occupied 
 as a farmhouse, but the hall remains, 
 and what are shown as Anne 
 Boleyn's apartments, and the room 
 in which Anne of Cleves died. The 
 first, however, have the date of 
 1584 on the outside (all except the 
 gatehouse seems to have undergone 
 an Elizabethan renovation), and the 
 second Anne died at Chelsea. There 
 is the usual gallery in the roof of 
 the N. front, and in the staircase 
 window is some stained glass with 
 the arms of Boleyn, Butler, and 
 Howard. The wooden stables, with 
 the sleeping apartments above, are 
 very curious, and should be noticed. 
 They are not later than the 15th 
 cent. Fronting them is an open 
 gallery, overlooking the castle bowl- 
 ing green. From the gallery a 
 descent is made to what is called the 
 Dungeon. 
 
 An earlier Castle was rebuilt, 
 temp. Edward III., by Sir William 
 Hevre of Hevre, near Northfleet, 
 whose co-heir carried it to the Lords 
 Cobham of Sterborough. It was 
 
ROUTE 2. — HEVER 
 
 i— CHIDDINGSTONE. 
 
 25 
 
 bought by Sir Geoffrey Boleyn, 
 mercer, and Lord Mayor 37 Hen. VI., 
 who began the present castle (the 
 older building being apparently in 
 a ruined state\ which was completed 
 by his grandson, Sir Thomas, father 
 of Anne Boleyn, and afterwards Earl 
 of Wilts. It is uncertain whether 
 Anne Boleyn was born at Hever ; but 
 she was certainly educated here, un- 
 der the care of her French ' gouver- 
 nante,' Simonette, before she went 
 to France in the train of the Princess 
 Mary ; and here subsequently the 
 king often visited her during the 
 troubled years of his courtship. Her 
 first meeting with Henry after her 
 return from France is said to have 
 taken place in the castle gardens. 
 Several of Henry's letters are ad- 
 dressed to her here. ' In order to 
 remind you of my affection,' he 
 writes, 1 and because I cannot be in 
 your presence, I send you the thing 
 which comes nearest that is possible, 
 that is to say my picture, and the 
 whole device, which you already 
 know of, set in bracelets, wishing 
 myself in their place when it pleases 
 you/ On the death of the Earl of 
 Wiltshire Henry seized the estate 
 and granted it for life to his repu- 
 diated wife Anne of Cleves. Queen 
 Mary gave the manor to the Walde- 
 graves, and it was sold in 1745 to 
 Sir T. Waldo, whose descendant, E. 
 W. Meade Waldo, Esq., of Chidding- 
 stone, is the present owner. 
 
 Hever Church, which stands on 
 an adjoining hill, and is conspicuous 
 by its lofty spire, is for the most 
 part Dec, the Boleyn Chapel being 
 late Perp. In the S. wall of the 
 tower is an arch with ogee canopy, 
 under which is fixed an inscription, 
 taken from a slab in the pavement 
 below, for John de Cobham, 1399. 
 In the Boleyn Chantry, on an altar- 
 tomb, is the fine brass of Sir Thomas, 
 Anne Boleyn's father (d; 1538). 
 Other Brasses are — Margaret Cheyne, 
 14 19 (good) ; and William Todde, 
 1585, and Sybel Greene, 161 4. 
 
 A small inn in the village exhibits 
 
 the figure of Henry VIII. as a sign. 
 Hever roads bore a bad name. That 
 they were fully equal in depth of 
 mire to those of Sussex or the Weald 
 appears from a tradition which as- 
 serts that Henry, riding over from 
 Greenwich or Eltham, used often Ho 
 stick in the mud* as he drew near 
 the place after nightfall ; when he 
 would blow his horn and summon 
 the inmates of the Castle with 
 torches to his assistance. 
 
 1 \ m. E. of Hever is Chidding- 
 stone Castle, anciently called High 
 Street House, the property of H. D. 
 Streatfeild, Esq., whose family have 
 been settled here since the reign of 
 Henry VIII. The present castel- 
 lated house is modern. Under the 
 trees on the edge of the park, be- 
 hind the village* is the so-called 
 ' Chiding-stone,' said, though very 
 questionably, to have given name to 
 the parish. It is a large, well-worn 
 mass of sandstone, about 18ft high, 
 and would certainly be no bad out- 
 door 'pulpit* or ' judgment-seat,' 
 to which uses tradition has assigned 
 it. Similar masses, however i^be- 
 side those at Tunbridge Wells\ are 
 found throughout all the sandstone 
 district, as at West Hoathley and 
 Hellingly in Sussex (the latter 
 termed the 'Amberstone'^ — at both 
 which places some sort of tradition 
 is attached to them ; and although 
 they may possibly have been used 
 by either Britons or Saxons, the 
 rocks themselves are beyond all 
 doubt in their natural position. 
 
 Chiddingstone Church is in the 
 village adjoining the park. The 
 tower is Perp., but the church itself 
 has some Dec. portions. It contains 
 many monuments of theStreatfeilds; 
 some of them iron slabs resembling 
 those of Sussex. In the neighbour- 
 hood is Stonewall Park. 
 
 There are some picturesque tim- 
 ber houses in the village, including 
 a quaint old inn. Boar Place and 
 Boreshill in this parish are said to be 
 so named from the wild boars which 
 
26 
 
 ROUTE 2. — LEIGH. 
 
 anciently haunted this great forest 
 district. 
 
 From Chiddingstone a pleasant 
 walk of some 2 m. through the woods 
 brings us to Penshurst (rly. stat. 
 2 m. N. of village on S. E. Rly.)- 
 
 [2 m. N.E. is Leigh 'in the ver- 
 nacular 'Lye') Church, which has 
 a Brass of a female, without name or 
 date, not early, but of unusual 
 character. The half figure rises 
 from an altar-tomb, within which 
 the body is seen, wrapped in a 
 shroud. There is also an old hour- 
 glass stand in the pulpit.] 
 
 Adjoining is Hall Place (S. Morley, 
 Esq., M.P.). 
 
 I m. S., on the other side of the 
 rly., is Redleaf, celebrated under a 
 former owner (Mr. Wells) for its 
 pictures, which are now dispersed, 
 and for the beauty of its gardens, 
 which remain. The views from the 
 grounds are very striking. Remark 
 the picturesque cottages built by 
 Mr. Wells near the park gates. 
 
 Emerging from a narrow lane into 
 the picturesque old village, we soon 
 reach the main entrance of 
 
 Penshurst Place (Lord De L'Isle). 
 
 The fixed days for seeing the house 
 are Monday and Saturday, but in 
 the absence of the family it is shown 
 at all times. The house has been 
 carefully restored by its owner. 
 
 A footway enters the park oppo- 
 site Redleaf, and from it a fine view 
 is obtained of the grand old house 
 with the church and village at its 
 back. The building is of various 
 dates and irregular plan ; but as the 
 Sidneys invariably placed either an 
 inscription or an heraldic escutcheon 
 on every new building, the time at 
 which each was erected is ascer- 
 tained with certainty. It must be 
 noted, however, that very extensive 
 works of reparation have been 
 effected, in good taste, since 1840. 
 
 The air of venerable antiquity 
 which at once impresses the visitor 
 
 as the grey walls of Penshurst appear 
 among their sheltering trees, is thus 
 celebrated by Ben Jonson : — 
 
 'Thou art not, Penshurst, built to envious 
 
 show 
 
 Of touch or marble ; nor canst boast a row 
 Of polish'd pillars or a roof of gold : 
 Thou hast no lantern, whereof tales are 
 told; 
 
 Or stair, or courts ; but stand'st an ancient 
 pile, 
 
 And (these grudged at) art reverenced the 
 while. 
 
 Thou joy'st in better marks, of soil, of air, 
 Of wood, of water ; therein thou art fair, 
 Thou hast thy walks for health, as well as 
 sport ; 
 
 Thy mount, to which the Dryads do resort, 
 When Pan and Bacchus their high feasts 
 have made 
 
 Beneath the broad beach and the chestnut 
 shade.' 
 
 The N. or main front has a gate- 
 house, temp. Edw. VI. ; the rest 
 Was rebuilt 1852. Crossing the great 
 court, the picturesque outlines of 
 which will at once attract attention, 
 we first enter the Hall. It was 
 built by Sir John de Pulteney about 
 1341, and is perhaps the most 
 ancient of its size remaining in the 
 kingdom. The tracery in the win- 
 dow-heads is of unusual design, 
 known as 1 Kentish ' ; and should 
 be compared with that at Chart- 
 ham (Rte. 7\ at Leeds Castle (Rte. 
 10), and in the hall of the arch- 
 bishop's palace at Mayfield in Sus- 
 sex (Hdbk. Sussex, Ete. 9 a), all 
 nearly of the same date. The open 
 timber roof is of excellent design. 
 The hearth is central, with a massy 
 brand-iron still remaining. The oak 
 tables (ancient, though uncertain 
 date) should also be noticed. At one 
 end is the Minstrels' Gallery, sup- 
 ported by a wainscot screen of later 
 date than the hall, but of good de- 
 sign. The bear and ragged staff, the 
 badge of the Dudleys, is frequently 
 repeated among its ornament s. 
 
 Among the numerous great per- 
 sonages who have been entertained 
 in this hall we may reckon James I., 
 whose unexpected visit gave J onson 
 an opportunity for praising my Lady 
 Sidney's good housekeeping — 
 
ROUTE 2.— 
 
 That found King James, when hunting late 
 this way, 
 
 With his brave son, the prince ; they saw 
 thy fires 
 
 Shine bright on every hearth, as the desires 
 Of thy Penates had been set on name 
 To entertain them ; or the country came, 
 With all their zeaJ, to warm their welcome 
 here. 
 
 What great, I will not say, but, sudden 
 cheer 
 
 Didst thou then make them ! and what 
 
 praise was heap'd 
 On thy good lady, then ! who therein reap'd 
 The just reward of all her housewifery ; 
 To have her linen, plate, and all things nigh, 
 When she was far; and not a room but 
 
 dress'd 
 
 As if it had expected such a guest ! ' 
 
 Through the screen were the usual 
 communications with kitchen and 
 buttery. The first has been de- 
 stroyed, but there remains at this 
 end of the hall a mass of building 
 of two storeys of the same date as 
 the hall itself. 
 
 At the opposite end of the hall a 
 door leads into the cellar, which is 
 vaulted, with a range of arches down 
 the centre. It is earlier than the 
 hall, and apparently of the 13th 
 cent. 
 
 The fragments of armour once 
 shown have been removed to the 
 private apartments. They are the 
 relics of a most noble collection, 
 suits of the Sidneys from generation 
 to generation, which disappeared 
 about 50 years since : at which time 
 also the greater j^art of the Sidney 
 correspondence preserved in the Evi- 
 dence Chamber found its way to the 
 hands of London collectors, under 
 the auspices of the ingenious Mr. 
 Ireland, then a frequent visitor at 
 Penshurst. Among the papers which 
 still remain here, however, are 
 several MS. treatises in the hand- 
 writing of Algernon Sidney. 
 
 A staircase, refitted, but perhaps 
 not later than the hall, leads to the 
 main suite of 6 rooms. The 
 furniture is partly Elizabethan, 
 partly of the last cent. ' The apart- 
 ments,' wrote Walpole (1752), 'are 
 the grandest I have seen in any of 
 these old palaces. There are loads 
 of portraits, but most of them seem 
 [Kent] 
 
 PENSHURST. 27 
 
 christened by chance, like children 
 at a foundling hospital.' The pictures 
 are numerous and of great interest. 
 Among them are — 
 
 Page's Eoom. — ' Here,' writes 
 Walpole, 'are four great curiosities : 
 I believe as old portraits as any exist- 
 ing in England — Fitzallen (?) Abp. 
 of Canterbury ; Humphrey Stafford, 
 1st Duke of Buckingham ; T. Went- 
 worth ; and John Foxle — all four 
 with dates of commissions as Con- 
 stables of Queenborough Castle ' 
 (Rte. 13). 'They are not very ill 
 done. Six more are heads. Sir 
 Edward Hobby, last but one of the 
 Constables, is said to have collected 
 these portraits.' John Dudley, Duke 
 of Northumberland : Holbein. Duke 
 of St. Albans, the son of NellGwynne. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Room [the 
 furniture of which is said to have 
 been a present from the queen her- 
 self). Sir Philip Sidney, aged about 
 23, reading, with a staff of office in 
 his hand, and his armour about him. 
 His sister, Mary Sidney, Countess 
 of Pembroke (engraved by Lodge), 
 M. Garrard. 
 
 Algernon Sidney, leaning on a 
 book labelled 4 Libertas ' ; behind 
 are the tower and the executioner's 
 axe. Robert Dudley, Queen Eliza- 
 beth's Earl of Leicester : Gerard. 
 Henry Rich, Earl of Hoi lain! : 
 Vandyck. Robert Earl of Leicester, 
 1632 : Vandyck. Philip Lord Lisle 
 (fine) : Vandyck. Barbara damage, 
 Countess of Leicester, 1596 ; and six 
 children, very curious : artist un- 
 known. George III. : Gainsborough. 
 Queen Charlotte : id. 
 
 Many relics of the Sidneys : the 
 bust of Algernon, a series of minia- 
 ture portraits, with locks of their 
 hair. 
 
 Tapestry Room.— Edward VI. : 
 Holbein. Sir Henry Sidney, father 
 of Sir Philip. Lady Dorothy Percy, 
 Countess of Leicester, mother of 
 Algernon Sidney, and her sister 
 Lady Lucy Percy, Countess of Car- 
 lisle, Nell Gwynne as Venus : Lely. 
 
 E 
 
28 
 
 ROUTE 2. — PENSHURST PLACE THE PARK. 
 
 The Gallery.— Lady Mary Dud- 
 ley, mother of Sir Philip. Algernon 
 Sidney. Hubert Languet, the friend 
 and correspondent of Sir Philip Sid- 
 ney. Dorothea Sidney (Waller's 
 Sacharissa) : Vandyck. The same 
 Dorothea Sidney as Countess of 
 Sunderland : Hoskens. Sir William 
 Sidney, to whom Penshurst was 
 given by Edward VI. : Lucas de Heere. 
 Sir Philip Sidney, and his brother 
 Robert, ist Earl of Leicester of this 
 line ; very curious and interesting. 
 Sir Philip is about 16, the younger 
 brother 13 or 14. i Sidney's keen 
 look ' is very marked in this picture. 
 
 Among the other pictures remark 
 a Head of Christ and a Madonna, 
 attributed to Simone Memmi, 1340 ; 
 and a Halt of Cavaliers : Wouvermans. 
 It is believed that the above list of 
 the pictures is generally correct. 
 No complete catalogue has been 
 published. Information of changes 
 in the arrangement of the apart- 
 ments from time to time may be 
 obtained by making inquiries at 
 m the village post-office. 
 
 The apartments inhabited by the 
 family are in the W. front, and over- 
 look a very beautiful garden. 
 
 Over the porch is a small wains- 
 cot-lined room, of which the panels 
 are well designed. Its oaken book- 
 cases and reading-desks are temp. 
 Jas. I. 
 
 Beside the great court, the S. 
 side of the hall, and a view in the 
 inner court, E. of the Buckingham 
 wing, should be noticed for their 
 fine architectural groupings. In this 
 inner court is a bell, hanging in a 
 wooden framework, with the in- 
 scription, i Robert Earl of Leicester 
 at Penshurst, 1649.' 
 
 Penshurst owes its chief celebrity 
 to the Sidneys, its latest grantees. 
 As early as Edward I. it was the 
 residence of Sir Stephen de Pen- 
 chester, whose effigy is seen in the 
 church. Sir John de Pulteney em- 
 battled the house, 15 Edw. III. 
 (1341), and it afterwards passed to 
 the Bohuns, Humphrey Duke of 
 Gloucester, and the Fanes. 6 Edw. 
 
 VI. it was granted to Sir William 
 Sidney, who commanded a wing of 
 the army at Flodden, and already 
 had a house in the parish. His son, 
 Sir Henry Sidney, Lord Justice of 
 Ireland, married' Mary, daughter 
 and finally heiress of John Dudley, 
 Duke of Northumberland. Sir Philip 
 Sidney, their eldest son, is supposed 
 to have been born here 24th Nov. 
 1554. He left only a daughter. His 
 sister Mary, celebrated in the * Ar- 
 cadia ' and in Jonson's famous 
 epitaph — 
 
 * Underneath this marble hearse 
 Lies, the subject of all verse, 
 Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother ; 
 Death ! ere thou hast slain another, 
 Learn'd, and fair, and good as she, 
 Time shall throw a dart at thee,' — 
 
 married Henry Earl of Pembroke. 
 Sir Eobert Sidney, Philip Sidney's 
 next brother, was created Viscount 
 Lisle and Earl of Leicester. He 
 married Barbara Gamage, of Gla- 
 morganshire. He died here, 1626, 
 and has a tomb in the church. 
 Robert, 2nd Earl, married Dorothy 
 Percy, and was father of Dorothy, 
 Waller's Sacharissa, who married, 
 ist, Robert Earl of Sunderland, 
 and 2nd, Robert Smith of Bid- 
 borough. His brother was Algernon 
 Sidney, beheaded 1683. Her great- 
 nephew, Jocelyn, was 7th and last 
 Earl. The estate eventually, by a 
 daughter, passed to the Perrys, 
 whose heiress married Sir Bysshe 
 Shelley, ancestor of the present pos- 
 sessor, whose father assumed the 
 name of Sidney, and was created 
 Lord De L'Isle. Anne, a natural 
 daughter of Earl Jocelyn, married 
 Streatfeild of Chiddingstone, and 
 had the Glamorgan estates which 
 came with Barbara Gamage. This 
 brief sketch will explain most of the 
 inscriptions, arms, and pictures. 
 
 The scenery of the Park, which 
 comprises about 350 acres, should be 
 explored at leisure. After long 
 neglect, it is regaining much of its 
 ancient dignity, and much of its 
 former extent, lands formerly dis- 
 parked having been restored to it, 
 
ROUTE 2 — PENSHURST 
 
 PARK — THE CHURCH. 29 
 
 so that it now approaches nearly its 
 original size. ' The park is forlorn/ 
 wrote Walpole : i instead of Sac- 
 charissa's cipher carved on the 
 beeches, I should sooner have ex- 
 pected to have found the milk- 
 woman's score/ To most visitors 
 Penshurst will now suggest feelings 
 very different from those with which 
 Walpole regarded it. The thoroughly 
 English character of Sir Philip Sid- 
 ney — a character which has been 
 more or less displayed by the noblest 
 of his fellow-countrymen from the 
 days of the Black Prince to those of 
 Inkerman and Delhi, and to which, 
 far more than to his learning, he is 
 indebted for his lasting reputation, 
 found but little favour at Straw- 
 berry Hill. (See Walpole's curious 
 letter to David Hume, July, 1758.; 
 Very differently writes Southey : — 
 
 . . . Tread 
 As with a pilgrim's reverential thoughts 
 The groves of Penshurst. Sidney here was 
 born. 
 
 Sidney, than whom no greater, braver man 
 His own delightful genius ever feign'd 
 Illustrating the groves of Arcady 
 With courteous courage and with loyal love.' 
 
 If the ' Arcadia ' was not actually 
 written here, many of its descrip- 
 tions may have been suggested by 
 the surrounding country, which still 
 displays the ' accompaniable soli- 
 tarinesse ' so greatly loved by the 
 hero of Zutphen. The picture of 
 Laconia might still pass for that of 
 Penshurst and its neighbourhood. 
 'There were hils which garnished 
 their proud heights with stately 
 trees ; humble vallies whose base 
 estate seemed comforted with the 
 refreshing of silver rivers ; medowes 
 enamelled with all sorts of eie-pleas- 
 ing flowers ; thickets, which being 
 lined with most pleasant shade were 
 witnessed so too, by the cheerfull 
 disposition of many well-tuned birds : 
 each pasture stored with sheep feed- 
 ing with sober security, while the 
 pretty lambs with bleating oratory 
 craved the dammes comfort : here a 
 shepheards boy piping, as though 
 hee should never be old ; there a 
 yong shepheardess knitting, and 
 
 withal singing, and it seemed that 
 her voyce comforted her hands to 
 worke, and her hands kept time to 
 her voice-music. As for the houses 
 of the countrey (for many houses 
 came under their eye), they were all 
 scattered, no two being one by th' 
 other, and yet not so farre off as that 
 it barred mutuall succour ; a shew, 
 as it were, of an accompaniable 
 solitarinesse, and of a civill wild- 
 nesse.' — Arcadia, lib. i. 
 
 The best points of view are gained 
 in the line of the long avenue from 
 Penshurst to Leigh ; and from the 
 entrance to the park which turns off 
 from the road leading from Penshurst 
 Stat. The scene from a barn near 
 the Leigh end of the avenue should 
 especially be noticed. The venerable 
 beeches of Sacharissa's Walk are also 
 to be visited. They are comme- 
 morated in Wallers lines : — 
 
 1 Ye lofty beeches ! tell this matchless dame 
 That if together ye fed all one flame, 
 It could not equalize the hundredth part 
 Of what her eyes have kindled in my heart ! 
 
 While in this park I sing, the listening deer 
 Attend my passion, and forget to fear. 
 When to the beeches I report my flame, 
 They bow their heads, as if they felt the 
 same.' 
 
 And directly in front of the gateway 
 four stunted limes mark the site of 
 Barbara Gamage's Bower, once 
 a woody coppice praised by Ben 
 Jonson for its never-failing supply 
 of ' seasoned dec r.' 
 
 Bear's Oak, above the large pond 
 called Lancup Well and Lint up by 
 the natives\ is said to be the tree 
 referred to by Waller — 
 
 ' Goe, boy, and carve this passion on the 
 bark 
 
 Of yonder tree, which stands the sacred 
 mark 
 
 Of noble Sidney's birth ' — . . . 
 
 Near the ' lofty beeches ' was the 
 heronry of which the colonists are 
 now established at Cobham in Kent. 
 (Rte. 3). 
 
 Not far from Penshurst Place is 
 Penshurst Church, which has been 
 restored by Sir G. G. Scott ; and 
 the chancel, and the north aisle, 
 
30 
 
 KOUTE 2. — PENSHURST — TUNBRIDGE. 
 
 which is the mortuary chapel of the 
 Sidneys, have been rebuilt. It was 
 rebuilt in a debased Gothic ; but 
 some parts of the interior seem 
 portions of the old structure. In 
 the ch. are a part of the effigy of 
 Sir Stephen de Penchester, temp. 
 Edw. L, and some monuments with 
 effigies of the Sidneys. Brass : Paul 
 Iden, 1514. There is an inscription 
 recording Margaret Sidney, d. 1558, 
 infant daughter of Sir Henry, and 
 sister of Sir Philip ; and a small 
 brass cross for i Thos. Bullayen, son 
 of Sir T. Bullayen ' : no date. There 
 is also a modern Brass to the 
 memory of the first Lord Har- 
 dinge. Built into the interior wall 
 of the tower are two stone coffin- 
 lids, found under the N. aisle. One 
 displays in relief the upper part of 
 a female figure in the attitude of 
 prayer, clinging to a floriated Greek 
 cross ; the face has great expression. 
 On the other coffin-lid is a floriated 
 Latin cross. Algernon Sidney is 
 believed to be buried here, but he 
 has no monument. The eminent 
 Dr. Hammond was rector here from 
 1633 to the sequestration in 1643, 
 and resided in the present rectory. 
 Sir John Temple had married his 
 sister ; and their son, William 
 Temple, the future statesman, was 
 educated by his uncle at Penshurst, 
 until the sequestration, when he 
 was sent to School at Bishop's Stort- 
 ford. 
 
 There are some old houses in 
 the * village worth notice ^P ar " 
 ticularly a i5th-cent. timber one, at 
 the entrance to the ch.-yard). 
 
 The existence of a cricket bat and 
 ball manufactory reminds us that 
 we are in a county which has long 
 been an abode of cricket. 
 
 Hever Castle is 2 m. distant. See 
 p. 24. 
 
 t| m. S. is South Park (Lord 
 Hardinge\ From the hill on which 
 the house stands are fine views to- 
 ward the ridge of Tunbridge Wells. 
 
 Bed Leaf, the seat of F. Clarke 
 Hills, Esq., and Hammerjieldj the 
 
 residence of Miss Nasmyth, are in 
 this parish. 
 
 In the churchyard of Fordcombe 
 Green, i| m. S.E. of South Park, 
 under an unpretending tomb, repose 
 the remains of the first Lord Har- 
 dinge, friend of ' the Great Duke/ 
 and Governor-General of India, who 
 died here, 1856. 
 
 From Penshurst the S.E.R. pro- 
 ceeds to Tunbridge. From Hever 
 the L.B.S.C.R. runs via Cowden 
 ^an ancient bell in the church here, 
 marked i Johannes est nomen ejus ' : 
 near to it is Crippenden, an ancient 
 hall, once a seat of the Tichbornes). 
 
 Ashurst (on the border of Sussex) 
 and Groombridge (Groombridge 
 Place has some fine carvings in the 
 library, said to be of the reign of 
 Henry V. : here the Duke of Orleans 
 was confined after the battle of 
 Agincourt), to Tunbridge Wells 
 (Rte. 8;. 
 
 TUNBRIDGE Junct. Stat* 
 Hence railways diverge on rt. to 
 Tunbridge Wells and Hastings 
 (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 1); and 1. (N.) 
 to London direct by Sevenoaks 
 (Rte. 8). Tunbridge is 42^ m. from 
 London via Sevenoaks. 
 
 Tunbridge (Pop. 10,123) is built 
 on ground rising from the banks 
 of the Medway, which here divides 
 into several branches and winds 
 round toward the N. The spire of 
 St. Stephen's, a modern Dec.ch., first 
 catches the eye on leaving the sta- 
 tion. The Checquers Inn, in the 
 High Street, is an excellent speci- 
 men of an old Kentish timbered 
 house. There are others of similar 
 character. Notice 1 the Loggerheads ' 
 with its quaint signboard in the 
 High Street. 
 
 Adjoining the principal bridge 
 over the Medway is the chief manu- 
 factory of Tunbridge ware, the best 
 specimens of which find their way to 
 Tunbridge Wells. 
 
 The Church, large and old, was 
 
ROUTE 2. — TUNBRIDGE CASTLE. 
 
 31 
 
 restored throughout in 1879. It was 
 granted by Roger de Clare, temp. 
 Hen. II , to the Knights Hospital- 
 lers. The tower and nave are Dec. 
 with some Perp. additions. The 
 chancel has on either side two small 
 round-headed windows, high in the 
 wall, which may be early Norm. 
 Within are mutilated effigies of Sir 
 Anthony Denton and wife, temp. 
 Jas. I. Many De Clares were interred 
 here, but have no memorials remain- 
 ing. The registers extend back as 
 far as 1549. 
 
 The remains of the Castle stand on 
 the Medway, near the centre of the 
 town, close to the Crown. It is in- 
 cluded in the grounds of a private 
 house, now a Military School. A 
 card to visit the ruins on Saturdays 
 may be obtained from Mr. Snelling, 
 bookseller, opposite the Crown. The 
 entrance is across a filled-up moat and 
 through a noble square Gate-house, 
 flanked by four round towers at the 
 angles, of great size and tolerably 
 perfect. Note the excellence of the 
 masonry ; the durability of the very 
 soft stone ; the holes for the pivots 
 of the drawbridge, much higher than 
 usual ; the extraordinary number of 
 perforations in the vault ; above, the 
 state-room, with large and handsome 
 windows ; and generally, the various 
 mouldings and enrichments, rare in 
 castellated buildings, and showing 
 this to be of the Early Dec. period, 
 1280-1300. 
 
 Beyond the gate- tower of the inner 
 ward ; 1., beyond the modern house, 
 is a wall with fragments of Norm, 
 and E. E. work ; rt., forming a part 
 of the enceinte of this ward is the so- 
 called Norman Mound, on which 
 stood the keep, covering an acre, 
 100 ft. above the river and 70 above 
 the court. On its top is a shell of 
 wall which may be Norm. A walk 
 leads from this mound, along a thick 
 curtain wall, to the upper storey of 
 the gate-tower. Under this curtain 
 is an arch, which seems to have been 
 a water-gate, by means of which 
 boats could be brought from the 
 
 Medway, along the moat, into the 
 inner ward. The arrangement is 
 peculiar and deserves examination. 
 
 The history of the Castle is one 
 of some interest. 
 
 Amongst the Barons who accom- 
 panied the Conqueror to England, 
 and who fought under him at the 
 battle of Hustings, were two brothers, 
 Guislebert and Baldwin, decendants 
 of Richard, first Duke of Normandy. 
 Guislebert, who is also mentioned as 
 de Bienfeit, became possessed of the 
 manor and lowey of Tonbrigge. In 
 remote times the Castle of Brion 
 was one of the possessions of the 
 Dukes of Normandy. The second 
 Richard gave it to Count Geoffrey, 
 his natural brother, and his son held 
 it after him ; but he, having been 
 slain, it reverted to the Duke, and 
 Roger the son of Richard laid claim 
 to it on the ground that it had for- 
 merly been held by his grandfather, 
 Count Gilbert ; Richard Fitz-Gil- 
 bert exchanged it for an equal area 
 of land called the league or lowey of 
 Tonbridge. Thus it may be inferred 
 that Tonbridge was then of sufficient 
 importance to be exchanged for one 
 of the royal castles of Normandy 
 (the remains of this castle may still 
 be seen on the banks of the Reille, 
 between Bee and Port Andemer). At 
 this time the Castle Mound (a 
 prehistoric earthwork Avas crowned 
 with a circular Keep, the buildings 
 being constructed round the in- 
 side, with the centre space un- 
 covered for the purpose of light and 
 air. The present interesting Port 
 or Gate-way, together with the en- 
 closure of the inner ballium, is of 
 later date, either by Richard de Clare 
 the younger Earl of Gloucester, or 
 his Guardian, Hubert de Burgh 
 (circa 1240), built after the model of 
 those constructed in Normandy by 
 Richard I , such as Roche Guy on, and 
 Chateau Gaillard. 
 
 The Port or Gate-way now 
 
 standing is a massive stone building 
 flanked with two semicircular 
 towers ten feet in thickness, fifty- 
 
32 
 
 ROUTE 2.— TUNBRIDGE CASTLE. 
 
 three feet in height, above the level 
 of the drawbridge entrance, which 
 is arched over, and further strength- 
 ened with a portcullis. On either 
 side are two guard-rooms, and in 
 the rear circular stone stairs leading 
 to the upper stories, with dungeons 
 below. The upper storey extends 
 the whole width and length of the 
 building, 54ft. by 28ft., with two 
 fine early pointed windows, looking 
 south ; while on the north the ex- 
 ternal openings are small slits widen- 
 ing inside to bays 5ft. to 6ft. wide. 
 
 There is also a fine bold chimney- 
 piece, with carved corbels. It was 
 in this room that Edward I., on the 
 27th of August, 1307, before crossing 
 over to Flanders, addressed a rescript 
 to the young Prince of Wales, at 
 that time left behind in the Castle 
 of Tonbridge, constituting the Prince 
 as his lieutenant in England, and 
 delivered the Great Seal to the Chan- 
 cellor, in the Council Chamber of 
 the Castle, in the presence of Regi- 
 nald de Grey, and Adam Guy 
 Fevre Plunknet and Guncelin de 
 Baddlesmere. On either side of the 
 Port are two doorways opening on 
 to the curtain wall and covered 
 way, the one leading to the keep, 
 and the other encircling the bal- 
 lium, on which were two towers, one 
 called the Stafford Tower, in 
 which was a chapel, and the other 
 called the Water Tower command- 
 ing the river and the moat. On the 
 S. side there was a strong and 
 high wall, next the river where the 
 domestic buildings stood, a curtain 
 wall again connecting the same with 
 the keep. The moat ran round the 
 castle walls, the entrance being on 
 the N. side by means of a drawbridge. 
 There is an opening in the wall on 
 the N. side by which it would ap- 
 pear that the water from the moat 
 also encircled the mound. There are 
 also the remains of a staircase in 
 the thickness of the wall, on the 
 S. side, which may have been 
 used as a sallyport to the river. The 
 Castle appears to have been captured 
 
 by the king's forces after a siege of 
 t wo days, when garrisoned by Richard 
 de Tonbrigge for Bishop Odo. Some 
 chroniclers assert that the Castle was 
 destroyed and the Town burnt, a. d. 
 1088, secondly in 12 15, when Hugh 
 de Reham was Castellan, by one 
 Falcasins on behalf of King John, 
 and a third time after the battle of 
 Boroughbridge, by Henry de Cobham 
 on behalf of Edward HI. The 
 Castle was successively held by three 
 great and illustrious families ; first 
 by the descendants of Richard de 
 Tonbridge, Earls of Clare and Hert- 
 ford, for a period of 159 years ; 
 secondly by the Earls of Gloucester 
 for 88 years ; and thirdly by the 
 Earls of Stafford and Bucking- 
 ham for 190 years. The Lords of 
 Tonbridge held the lands in fief as 
 hereditary chief butler and stewards 
 of the Archbishop of Canterbury at 
 his enthronization, and for their ser- 
 vices received seven robes of scarlet, 
 30 gal. of wine, 50 lb. of wax, as well 
 as livery of hay and corn for 50 horses 
 for two nights, together with the 
 silver dish and salt-cellar which 
 was set before the Archbishop at the 
 first course. On his departure the 
 Earl was to have entertainment at 
 the cost of the Archbishop by the 
 four quarters of Kent, where the 
 Earl might choose (ad sanguinem 
 minuendum), so that the Earl did 
 not bring more than 50 horses. 
 
 The last of the Staffords, as he was 
 styled, the Rt. Mighty Prince Hum- 
 phrey, Duke of Buckingham, Here- 
 ford, Stafford, Northampton, and 
 Perch, Lord of Brecknock and Hol- 
 derness, Captain of the Town of 
 Calais, having raised the suspicion 
 of his patron and friend, Henry 
 VIII., was attainted of treason and 
 beheaded, Aug. 17, 1520, when his 
 lands and castles were escheated to 
 the Crown. His son Henry and his 
 wife Ursula were restored in blood. 
 The present owner is Lady Emma 
 Stafford. 
 
 It was successively granted and 
 held by John Dudley, Earl of War- 
 wick, Duke of Northumberland, and 
 
ROUTE 2. — TUNBRIDGE CASTLE — HADLOW CASTLE. 33 
 
 at his death by the Duchess ; at her 
 demise Queen Mary gave it to Car- 
 dinal Pole, Elizabeth to William 
 Carey Lord Hunsden, after which 
 the estate was broken up and be- 
 came vested in other hands. Mr. 
 Thomas Weller, a staunch Parlia- 
 mentarian leased the Castle in the 
 time of the Commonwealth, and by 
 the authority of the Commissioners 
 at Maidstone put it into a state of 
 defence. Mr. John Hooker, of Peck- 
 ham, left it to his son Thomas, who 
 in 1793 dismantled the castle, and 
 built the present mock Gothic residence. 
 It is at present in the occupation of 
 Mr. Chas. Wauton, who has a good 
 school for junior boys. 
 
 Licence to wall and embattle the 
 Town and Castle was granted by 
 Henry III. to Richard de Clare, 
 1259. The remains of the fosse are 
 now distinctly visible. The district 
 of St. Stephen's is outside these lines. 
 
 The same Richard de Clare was 
 also the founder of the Priory of 
 St. Mary Magdalene, for Canons 
 regular of the order of St. Augustin 
 (circa 11 36). The site where it for- 
 merly stood is now used as part of 
 the Goods Station on the S. E. Rly. 
 It was burnt down in 1337, but 
 afterwards rebuilt and disestablished 
 together with other institutions of a 
 like nature in 1529. It is much to 
 the credit of Cardinal Wolsey that 
 he offered the Town a free School for 
 40 boys instead, with exhibitions to 
 his new College at Oxford ; but the 
 inhabitants at that time preferred 
 the Priory, and. at his death they 
 lost both. 
 
 At this time John Judd was 
 residing at Barden, and was one 
 who no doubt felt the loss of the 
 educational advantages it offered for 
 his son Andrew, who afterwards be- 
 came a wealthy city merchant, ad- 
 venturer, and skinner, alderman 
 and mayor. He nobly came forward 
 to supply the want, and founded 
 and endowed the free Grammar 
 School of Tonbridge, constituting 
 the Worshipful Company of Skin- 
 
 ners of London as Governors, with 
 an endowment of land in St. Pan- 
 eras for its support, a. d. 1553. The 
 Chapel and present buildings 
 were erected in 1863, the Science 
 buildings in 1880. 
 
 [Sevenoaks and Knole (Rte. 8^ can 
 be conveniently visited from Tun- 
 bridge by rail. 7 m., but the road 
 over River Hill is a very pleasant 
 one, and has fine views.] 
 
 Hadlow Church 3} m. N. E., 
 
 was attached to the preceptory of 
 Hospitallers in West Peekham, the 
 adjoining parish. In it is a monu- 
 ment for Sir John Rivers and wife, 
 temp. Jas. I. 
 
 Hadlow Castle (Mrs. Rodger 
 Cunliffe — it is entirely modern) is 
 rendered conspicuous by its lofty 
 prospect tower of stone and brick, 
 seen from the railway, N., after 
 leaving Tunbridge. Notice the cedars 
 in the park. 
 
 Somerliill (Julian Goldsmid, Esq., 
 M. P.), i| m. S., a large Jas. I. 
 house, stands in the S. Frith, and 
 was a favourite haunt of the courtiers 
 during the visits of Charles II. to 
 Tunbridge Wells. It was then the 
 property of Lady Mu skerry, the 
 4 Babylonian Princess ' of Gram- 
 mont's Memoirs. The house was 
 built 1624 by Richard de Burgh, 
 Earl of Clanrickardc and Baron 
 Somerhill. An earlier mansion here 
 had belonged to Sir F. Walsingham, 
 whose daughter and heiress conveyed 
 it to her first husband, Sir Philip 
 Sidney. The present house was 
 granted by Cromwell to President 
 Bradshaw * in return for his great 
 service to his country.' * There is 
 now,' says Walpole, who made a 
 pilgrimage to Somerhill in 1752, 
 1 scarce a road to it. The paladins of 
 those times were too valorous to fear 
 breaking their necks ; and I much 
 apprehend that La Mouscry and the 
 fair Mademoiselle Hamilton must 
 have mounted their palfreys and rode 
 behind the gentlemen-ushers upon 
 
34 
 
 ROUTE 2. PEMBURY — PLUCKLEY. 
 
 pillions to the Wells. . . . The house 
 is little better than a farm ; but has 
 been an excellent one, and is entire 
 though out of repair. ... It stands 
 high, commands a vast landscape 
 beautifully wooded, and has quanti- 
 ties of large old trees to shelter itself, 
 some of which might be well spared 
 to open views/ Roads have been 
 mended ; and Somerhill restored and 
 enlarged by Jeffrey Wyatville, is now 
 a most picturesque object from what- 
 ever point it comes into sight. 
 
 The Church of Pembury, i m. S. E. 
 beyond Somerhill, has some Norm, 
 portions. In the churchyard is a 
 stone coffin said to be that of an 
 abbot of Bayham ; there is also a 
 good modern church, built by the 
 2nd Marquis Camden. 
 
 From Tunbridge the rail passes 
 Tudely Church, which has a fine 
 restored altar tomb to the Fane 
 family, afterwards Barons le De- 
 spencer, 1545. We then reach 
 
 34 \ m. Paddock Wood Junc- 
 tion, formerly a hamlet of Brench- 
 ley, now rising to the dignity of a 
 town. 
 
 [A line here branches off, 1., to 
 Maidstone, 10 m., and another is 
 projected to Cranbrook and Hawk- 
 hurst.] 
 
 London to Dover continued. 
 
 Brenchley, 2^ m. S. of Paddock- 
 wood Stat , has a ch. with lofty 
 square tower, and an oak screen 
 dated 1336 ; there are also a few 
 good timbered houses now used as 
 cottages. A tree known as the 
 i Umbrella Tree ' on the top of the 
 hill above the village, and 350 ft. 
 above the sea, is the landmark of 
 all this district. 
 
 Matfield Green is on the road 
 to Pembury. Near here is Weirleigh, 
 once the residence of the well-known 
 animal painter, Harrison Weir. 
 
 39m.Marden (Stat.). The Church, 
 close to the line, was restored in 
 1888. There is a parvise over the S. 
 
 porch. The building is chiefly Dec- 
 orated, with some parts of earlier 
 work. 3 m. N. is Linton Place (F. S. 
 Wykeham Cornwallis, M.P.). In 
 the ch. of Linton, with its fine W. 
 tower are some good monuments by 
 Bailey for members of the Corn- 
 wallis family. (See Rte. 6, Excur- 
 sion (e) from Maidstone.) 
 
 41 ^m. Staplehurst (Stat.)*. A 
 fine view is gained from the Church, 
 which has an ancient doorway to S. 
 porch, with ironwork said to be of 
 12th cent. Iden Manor (modern), in 
 a large park, is the seat of W. Hoare, 
 Esq. 
 
 At Frittenden, 2 m. S.E., is a 
 good Perp. ch. with lofty spire, 
 restored by Hussey for the late 
 rector, Rev. E. Moore. 
 
 44I m. Headcorn (Stat.). 
 
 The Church, ^ m. W., is Perp., 
 with some fragments of stained glass. 
 The panelled roof, the font, with 
 perpendicular Tomb to a member of 
 the Colepeper family, and ancient 
 screen deserve notice. In the church- 
 yard is an enormous oak, 40 ft. in 
 circumference, the upper branches 
 of which have perished ; local tradi- 
 tion gives it the age of 1000 years. 
 The village contains many old tim- 
 bered houses, and there are some 
 picturesque points on the stream of 
 the Beult. 
 
 At Mottenden, 2 m. N. of stat., was 
 the first house of 'Crutched,' i.e. 
 crossed, Friars established in Eng- 
 land, temp. Hen. III., and at the 
 Dissolution granted to Thomas Lord 
 Cromwell ; afterwards to Sir A. 
 Aucher. There are no remains ; but 
 the name is preserved by a farm- 
 house. The friars were famous for 
 their miracle play acted in the ch. 
 on Trinity Sunday. 
 
 50 m. Pluckley (Stat.) *. The 
 village, which contains many good 
 houses, stands on a hill, 1 m. N. 
 The large and handsome Church is 
 E. E., with Dec. and Perp. windows 
 inserted. (One in the Surrenden 
 chancel is filled with early German 
 glass of some interest. A window 
 in the chancel commemorates Bishop 
 
ROUTE 2. LITTLE 
 
 CHART — ASHFORD . 
 
 35 
 
 Oxenden, Metropolitan of Canada, a 
 well-known writer, once rector here). 
 The ch. is said to have heen built by 
 Rich, de Pluckley, temp. Hen. II. 
 Brasses, Richard Malemayns, 1440 ; 
 * Julyen Deryng,gentyl woman/ 1526. 
 From the ch.-yd. is an extensive 
 view over the Weald, the ch. of 
 Goudhurst being very conspicuous. 
 ^ m. E. of the ch. is Surrenden Bering 
 (Sir E. C. Dering, Bart.), the an- 
 cient seat of the Derings, to whom 
 it came by marriage (through the 
 heiresses of the families of Pluckley, 
 Surrenden, and Haute) in the latter 
 half of the fifteenth cent. The house, 
 a modern structure, contains, among 
 other valuable records, the celebrated 
 Surrenden Charters, which extend 
 into the Saxon period, some of which 
 have been printed and well illus- 
 trated by the Rev. L. B. Larking in 
 the Arch. Cant. A great part of the 
 collection formed by Sir E. Dering 
 at the period of the Commonwealth 
 came into the possession of the late 
 Sir T. Phillipps, of Middle Hill. 
 
 Little Chart, 1 m. N., has a 
 Church with portions from E. E. to 
 late Perp. There are some fragments 
 of stained glass. In the N. aisle is 
 the effigy of an armed knight with 
 collar of SS — one of the Darell 
 family, to whom this aisle belongs. 
 It is enclosed with a Perp. screen of 
 wood. 
 
 The towers of this ch., of Eger- 
 ton, and of Charing, are said to 
 have been built by Sir John Darell, 
 temp. Hen. VII. Adjoining is Cale 
 Hill, the ancient seat of the Darell 
 family. 
 
 Chart is recorded in Domesday 
 as possessing a vineyard of 'three 
 arpents.' It may be remarked that 
 the soil much resembles that of the 
 champagne districts about Epernay, 
 though a competition is hardly to 
 be recommended. 
 
 The tower of Egerton Church 
 (2 m. W. of Little Chart) is marked 
 as one of the boundaries of the 
 Weald. It stands high on the 
 Quarry Hills, at the back of which 
 
 rises the chalk, and looks out far 
 over the wooded district to the S. 
 
 The low range of hills, N., now 
 approaches nearer the line, which 
 at 
 
 55 J m. reaches Ashford Junc- 
 tion Stat. 
 
 1. is the branch line to Canterbury, 
 Ramsgate, and Margate. (Rte. 7. ) 
 
 rfc. the branch which, skirting 
 Romney Marsh, runs by Appledore 
 and Rye to Hastings, (Hdbk. Sussex, 
 Rte. 2.) with branch from Apple- 
 dore to Lydd, New Romney and 
 Dungeness. The L. C. D. line from 
 Maidstone (Rte. icO here forms a 
 junct. with the S. E. R. 
 
 At Ashford New Town (partly 
 in the parish of Willesborough are 
 the extensive Works of the S. E. 
 Rly., on which some thousand per- 
 sons are engaged. 
 
 ASHFORD* Pop. io,728\ im- 
 portant as the junction of lour lines 
 of rly., is for the most part of very 
 recent growth : but the old College 
 now the Vicarage) and old Gram- 
 mar School, built in 1635 and 
 sold in 1875 for the purpose of 
 building the new School), are worth 
 a visit. And the Church of St. 
 Mary is noticeable for its tower. 
 It was built by Sir John Fogge, 
 temp. Edw. IV., who also rebuilt, 
 or restored, the entire church, the 
 greater part of which is of this date. 
 The tomb of Sir John Fogge remains 
 in the chancel, but without its 
 brasses ; over it is suspended his 
 helmet, weighing 16.]- lbs. On the 
 pavement is the much mutilated 
 Brass of Elizabeth wife of David de 
 Strabolgie, Earl of Athole (1375) : 
 she married secondly John Mai- 
 mayns of Kent : hence her inter- 
 ment in this ch. Here are also 
 some elaborate 16th-century monu- 
 ments for the Smythes of Westen- 
 hanger (ancestors of the late Viscount 
 Strangford), which deserve notice. 
 
 Ashford is indebted to Shakspeare 
 for the honour of figuring as the 
 native place of the 'headstrong 
 
36 ROUTE 2. — HOTHFIELD — BEABOURNE CHUECH. 
 
 Kentish man, John Cade of Ashford ' 
 (< Henry VI./ Part II.). Hall, who 
 describes him as of a ' goodly stature 
 and pregnant wit/ calls him only 
 i the lusty Kentish captain/ 
 
 Hothfield, 2^ m. N.W., contests 
 with Heathfield, in Sussex, the 
 honour of having been the place at 
 which Jack Cade was killed by the 
 Sheriff Iden. 1 Jack Cade's Field' 
 is still shown adjoining Hothfield 
 Place, the seat of Lord Hothfield. 
 Sussex, however, seems to have the 
 better claim. (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 2.) 
 
 Godinion in the adjoining parish 
 of Great Chart is the seat of W. P. 
 Pomfret, Esq., M.P. It was formerly 
 in the possession of the ancient 
 Kentish family of Toke. The house, 
 an interesting red-brick Tudor man- 
 sion, little altered, contains much 
 good oak-carving and stained glass, 
 and some ancient andirons. The 
 chestnuts in the park should be 
 noticed. Nicholas Toke, of Godinton 
 (d. i68o\ like his predecessor in this 
 parish William Sharpe, survived five 
 wives, and, accordiDg to the family 
 tradition, walked to London at the 
 age of 93 to seek a sixth, but died 
 before finding her. This veteran's 
 portrait remains in the hall, and 
 he has a Brass at Great Chart (Rte. 
 11). 
 
 In Willesborough Church, (re- 
 stored), 2 m. E., are several Dec. 
 sedilia, somewhat resembling those 
 at Lenham (Rte. 10) and Corhamp- 
 ton (see Handbook for Hants) : they 
 are figured in Gloss. Arch. A tradi- 
 tion in the family of Masters, long 
 resident here, and one of whom was 
 Queen Elizabeth's physician, is said 
 to have furnished the plot for Ot- 
 way's tragedy of 4 The Orphan.' 
 
 Beyond Ashford the undulating 
 lines of the chalk hills soon become 
 visible, N. ; but the railway does not 
 yet leave the greensand. 
 
 60 m. Smeeth (Stat.\ 
 The village is 2 m. N. N. of the 
 station is Mersham Hatch, more pro- 
 
 perly Le Hatch, the property of 
 Sir Wyndham Knatchbull, to whose 
 ancestors it has belonged since the 
 reign of Henry VIII. Mersham Ch. 
 contains, among other memorials of 
 that family, a fine monument to 
 Sir N. K. (1636^. The painted glass 
 in the W. window is curious, and 
 deserves notice. 
 
 Smeeth Church contains Norm, 
 portions, especially a fine chancel 
 arch with enriched mouldings. In 
 this parish was Scott's Hall, the 
 ancient seat of the Scotts, a family 
 claiming descent from William de 
 Balliol, le Scott. Sir Thomas Scott, 
 the head of this house, was appointed 
 leader of the Kentish forces at the 
 time of the Armada, and so diligent 
 and popular was he, that he sent 
 4000 men to Dover the day after 
 receiving the Council's letters. Regi- 
 nald Scott, author of the 'Discoverie 
 of Witchcraft' (first published in 
 1584), was of this family. The 
 mansion has disappeared, but the 
 site is known and is now the pro- 
 perty of Lord Bra bourne, whose resi- 
 dence, The Paddock, is in this parish. 
 Sellindge Ch. (2 m. E. of Smeeth \ 
 has some Norman work ; on the 
 walls are carved several crosses 
 within circles. 
 
 Brabourne Church (restored : 
 the chancel by Sir G. G. Scott, and 
 the rest by Christian), among the 
 low hills (2 m. N. E. of Smeeth), 
 where are many monuments of the 
 Scotts, has a remarkable stone erec- 
 tion against the S. wall of the chan- 
 cel. It is about the usual height of 
 an altar, but is much smaller. Cut 
 on the stone on the top is a cross 
 enclosed in a circle, and 3 sides of a 
 parallelogram rt. and 1. At the 
 back is a low-arched canopy, under 
 which is a shield which has been 
 painted. It is apparently late Dec, 
 and has been called a credence- 
 table ; more probably it marks the 
 place where the heart of some im- 
 portant personage was deposited, like 
 the tabernacle at Leyborne near 
 Maidstone (see Rte. 6) : it is too 
 high for a seat. In the N. wall of 
 
ROUTE 2. — HASTINtrLEIGrH — COURT-AT-STREET. 
 
 37 
 
 the chancel is a small window of 
 very early stained glass. Six fine 
 Brasses (ranging from 1433 (?) to 
 1528) have been relaid in the chan- 
 cel : they commemorate members 
 and connexions of the family of 
 Scott, of Scott's Hall. There are eight 
 mural tablets to this family in the 
 Trinity (or Scott) Chapel : and a 
 large tomb, in the place of the altar, 
 commemorating 18 generations, from 
 1290 to 1562. There is an altar 
 tomb, from which an effigy has been 
 removed and inscription effaced in 
 N. wall of chancel. For a full ac- 
 count of this family see ' History of 
 the Scott Family/ by James Scott. 
 In the S. chapel is a brass to 
 Elizabeth Poynynges, 1528. In the 
 ch.-yd. was formerly an old yew- 
 tree, 59 feet in circumference, men- 
 tioned by Evelyn {Disc, on Forest 
 Trees, 1664) ; it has disappeared 
 nearly a century, but De Candolle, 
 judging from some fragments that 
 had been preserved, ascribed to it 
 an age of 3000 years. (Longer, des 
 Arbres, p. 65.) The yews of the 
 Kentish churchyards are many of 
 them of extreme age and size as at 
 Stowting, post) ; and it has been 
 suggested that they mark ancient 
 religious sites which were Chris- 
 tianised by the building of the ch. 
 Notice in the churchyard a long 
 ridge, which marks the burial-place 
 of a large number of the sufferers 
 from the Walcheren expedition. 
 Several of the regiments, on their 
 return, were encamped on Brabourne 
 Leas, where fever made terrible 
 havoc among them. 
 
 A remarkable conical hill in this 
 parish, called Collier's Hill, seen rt. 
 from the rail, has a large pond 
 on its top, which is said never to 
 become dry. 
 
 N. of Brabourne is Hastingleigh. 
 The arch of the N. door of the 
 original Norman Church, a window 
 of the same date of curious con- 
 struction, not intended for glass, 
 and a fresco of the Annunciation, 
 were revealed at the restoration of 
 the ch. here in 1880. 
 
 [The Church of Aldington (2 m. 
 S. of Smeeth Stat.) is E. E., with 
 Perp. tower. Was completely re- 
 stored in 1875. It was given by 
 Archbp. Warham to Erasmus in 
 151 1. He resigned it the next year, 
 1 receiving a pension of 20?. per an- 
 num from its revenues. The carved 
 oak stalls in the ch. deserve notice, 
 also a brass to John Weddell and 
 family, 1475. The tower, which is 
 still without battlements, is a land- 
 mark to the whole district. Aldington 
 Court ! now a farm-house) adjoining 
 the ch., is built on the site of the 
 ancient palace of the Abp. It still 
 retains the remains of the chapel, 
 and two large 2-light windows of the 
 14th cent., and there are traces of the 
 park and fishponds. — (J. H. Parker.) 
 
 Court-at-Street is a hamlet in 
 the parish of Lymne, about 1 m. E. of 
 Aldington Ch. The chapel to which 
 it gave name was the scene of the pro- 
 phecies and ecstasies of Elizabeth 
 Barton, the Nun of Kent, whose reve- 
 lations against the divorce of Cath- 
 erine of Arragon formed so remaik- 
 able an episode in the history of that 
 period. Among those implicated in 
 this imposture were the rector of 
 Aldington, and several monks of 
 Christ Church, — Archbp. Warham 
 himself hardly escaping the charge 
 of conniving at it. Some wall frag- 
 ments still mark the site of the 
 chapel, which stood below a ridge 
 of wooded ground that stretches 
 E. as for as Hythe, and overlooks 
 the marshes. The sea view is very 
 striking. 
 
 Court-at-Street is also known as 
 Belerica, and has traditions of ancient 
 greatness, which are probably due to 
 its vicinity to Lymne. It stands on 
 the Roman road which ran from 
 Lymne to Pevensey (Anderida), the 
 straight course of which, along the 
 high ground, at once betrays its 
 origin. 'Remains of Roman settle- 
 ments are discovered all along, on 
 both sides of the road, which seems 
 to have been bordered with villas.' — 
 Wright] 
 
38 
 
 ROUTE 2. WESTENHANGER — HYTHE. 
 
 633 m. Westenhanger (Stat.). 
 
 Adjoining the station, W., among 
 some fine old walnut-trees, are the 
 remains of the ancient mansion of 
 Westenhanger, a good example of the 
 fortified manor-house of the 14th 
 cent. It is surrounded by a broad 
 moat, enclosing a quadrangle, the 
 walls of which were defended by nine 
 towers, alternately square and round. 
 Of these towers, three only remain ; 
 and the interior buildings have all 
 but disappeared, a farm-house having 
 been built on part of the site. The 
 round dovecot tower at the N.E. 
 angle has holes for 500 pigeons, and 
 is curious. The central tower (a 
 square one) of the three remaining is 
 called Fair Rosamond's, from a tra- 
 dition that the 'Rosa Mundi' had 
 her bower here before her removal 
 to Woodstock. A long gallery ad- 
 joining the tower, now destroyed, 
 was called her i prison/ The single 
 confirmation of this tradition is the 
 fact that the left hand of a statue 
 grasping a sceptre — 'a position pe- 
 culiar to Henry II./ says Hasted, 
 (but query) — was long since found 
 in the ruins. The existing towers, 
 however, are of later date, and are 
 probably the work of Bertram de 
 Criol, temp. Hen. III. The manor 
 subsequently passed into the hands 
 of the Poynings family, by one of 
 whom, Sir Edward Poynings, the 
 chapel and other parts of the man- 
 sion now destroyed were built, temp. 
 Hen. VIII. It then lapsed to the 
 crown ; and Queen Elizabeth rested 
 during one of her progresses ' at her 
 own house at Westenhanger.' In 
 the register of St. Augustine's, Can- 
 terbury, the manor is called ' Le 
 Hangre' {angra, Sax., a corner of 
 land ). It was subsequently divided 
 into Osten and Westen Hanger. 
 
 The ch. of Westenhanger, now long 
 since destroyed, was, in the 16th 
 cent., ecclesiastically united to the 
 neighbouring ch. of Stanford (1 m. 
 N.), in which the ancient font which 
 belonged to Westenhanger is still to 
 be found. (The landlord of the little 
 inn at Stanford, the Drum, will be 
 
 found a very serviceable guide for 
 his locality.) Stanford is on the 
 ancient 'Stone Street/ the Roman 
 road from Lymne to Canterbury. 
 From the hill above a magnificent 
 view is obtained. S.W. of the hill 
 is the ancient mansion of Mount 
 Morris, formerly the seat of the 
 eccentric Lord Rokeby. 
 
 65 m. Sandling Junet. Here 
 the branch line runs off to Hythe 
 and Sandgate. 
 
 HYTHE* (the harbour, Sax.), Pop. 
 4351, one of the Cinque Ports, is, like 
 the others, the successor of one of the 
 Roman fortresses placed under the 
 control of the Count of the Saxon 
 shore. Portus Lemanis, the ancient 
 castle and harbour, is more than 3 
 m. distant, the sea having gradually 
 retired, first to West Hythe,, until the 
 haven from which the place is named 
 has become quite silted up. 
 
 Hythe exhibits many traces of 
 ancient prosperity. Its harbour, 
 which lay ' strayt for passage owt 
 of Boleyn' (LelancV, was greatly nar- 
 rowed in Elizabeth's time, and soon 
 became ail-but closed. There is now 
 a waste of shingle, in some part a 
 mile wide, between the town and 
 the sea, but efforts are being made 
 to establish a suburb on the shore, 
 where handsome baths and some 
 few houses have been erected. An 
 Act has been passed for Bocks at 
 Seabrook, between Hythe and Shorn - 
 cliffe. The School of Musketry is 
 established at Hythe, and the shore 
 westward is thickly studded with 
 rifle-butts, so that caution on the 
 part of the explorer is absolutely 
 necessary. 
 
 The *Church, dedicated to St. 
 Leonard, stands on high ground 
 commanding a fine view (though 
 a finer view is to be had a little 
 higher up) of the sea and Romney 
 Marsh, and well deserves a visit. 
 It is mainly E. E. and Dec. The 
 tower and S. transept were rebuilt 
 toward the middle of the last cent., 
 and extensive restorations have been 
 recently effected, including a good 
 
ROUTE 2. — HYTHE : 
 
 SALTWOOD CASTLE. 
 
 39 
 
 S. porch, over which is the muni- 
 ment room of the corporation. The 
 E.E. triple chancel still remains. The 
 main chancel is raised by eight steps 
 above the nave, and has a farther 
 ascent of three to the altar. The view 
 from the W. end is thus rendered 
 very impressive. Round the chancel 
 is an arcade of Bethersden marble, 
 which is also used for the clustered 
 shafts below. The mouldings and 
 enrichments should be carefully 
 noticed. A Norm, doorway in the 
 external wall of the N. transept 1ms 
 lately been opened after having been 
 long blocked up. An arch of like 
 date exists in the S. aisle. 
 
 In what is improperly called the 
 crypt, under the chancel, is an ex- 
 traordinary collection of human 
 skulls and bones, reminding the 
 visitor of the Breton ossuaries. 
 Many of the skulls have deep cuts 
 in them, and are thought to have 
 become blanched by long lying on 
 the sea-shore. Their age and date 
 have long been matter of dispute 
 among antiquarians. For a probable 
 theory of their history see the 
 Archceologia Cantiana, vol. xviii. p. 
 333. The skulls are either Celtic or 
 Saxon, with a few Roman, and pro- 
 bably Lapp. There are in all the 
 remains of about 7000 persons. 
 
 In the ch.-yd. notice the grave- 
 stone of Lionel Lukin, a London 
 coach-maker, who, in 1785. patented 
 an ' unimmergible boat,' of .which 
 the present lifeboat is merely an 
 improvement. 
 
 Like the other Cinque Ports, 
 Hythe had two well-endowed hospi- 
 tals, which still exist — St Bartholo- 
 mew's, founded 1342 by Bp. Hamo 
 of Rochester ; and St. Joints, of un- 
 known but early foundation, rebuilt 
 1802. 
 
 The quarries of greensand near 
 Hythe abound in fossils. Fragments 
 of an enormous marine saurian found 
 here some years since are now in the 
 British Museum. 
 
 An excursion of some interest may 
 be made from Hythe to Romney and 
 Lydd. (Rte. 14.) 
 
 The Royal Military Canal 30 
 
 m. long), which begins somewhat 
 E. of Hythe, and crosses the marshes 
 to Rye, was commenced in 1807. 
 when the Martello towers along the 
 coast were also erected. The canal 
 was intended more for defence than 
 for the conveyance of troops and 
 stores, but for some years a packet- 
 boat ran on it, and it is still used 
 for the transport of road material, 
 &c. An Act was passed in 1867 
 allowing the Secretary at War to 
 dispose of it, and a project has 1 een 
 mooted to convert a part of its bed 
 into a Railway, connecting Hythe 
 with London by a line through the 
 Weald. (Rte. 11.) Small houses, 
 erected at intervals of about 2 m., 
 are mostly occupied by pensioners 
 of the Ordnance Department, who 
 act as 'walksmen,' and exercise a 
 kind of supervision of the traffic. 
 There is a very picturesque walk by 
 the side of the raised bank on the 
 N.. under flourishing elms, to West 
 Hythe (1 m.) and Studfall, (i£ m. 
 further) ; the view of the wooded 
 height on which Lymne Oh. stands 
 on the one hand, and on the other 
 the wide extent of shingle, inter- 
 spersed every here and there with 
 pools, iu which many curious marsh- 
 plants nourish, beyond which is >een 
 the sea, with the Martello Towers, 
 is one that will not easily be for- 
 gotten. 
 
 Of *SALTWOOD CASTLE, 1 m. 
 
 N, of Hythe, there arc consider- 
 able remains, and the site is suffi- 
 ciently picturesque ; low, wooded 
 hills stretching away on either side, 
 and the sea opening at the end of 
 the valley in front. Within the outer 
 walls, forming a long oval, was a 
 broad deep moat, now dry, but ori- 
 ginally fed from the Salt wood brook, 
 which runs W. of the Castle. Beyond 
 the moat is the inner gatehouse, flanked 
 by two circular towers. The portcullis 
 groove is visible over the arch. The 
 gatehouse was the work of Abp. 
 Coui tenay, temp. Rich. II. ; and the 
 shields above the entrance bear on 
 
40 
 
 ROUTE 2. — HYTHE : 
 
 STUDFALL CASTLE. 
 
 one side the archbishop's coat alone, 
 on the other that of Courtenay im- 
 paled with the see of Canterbury. 
 The circular flanking towers are 
 perhaps a century earlier. This fine 
 gate-tower has not been improved 
 by its long use as a farm-house. 
 The visitor should ascend to the top, 
 for the sake of the view, which ex- 
 tends to the French coast, and is 
 very striking. 
 
 The inner court was surrounded 
 by a lofty wall with turrets at inter- 
 vals ; and here were the principal 
 apartments, remains of which still 
 exist. The foundations of the cha- 
 pel may be traced toward the centre 
 of the court ; the remains on the S. 
 side, usually pointed out as belong- 
 ing to it, being probably those of 
 a hall or solar. Much of the castle 
 was overthrown in 1580 by an earth- 
 quake. 
 
 Saltwood was granted to the see 
 of Canterbury in 1026, by Haldene, 
 with the permission of King Knut 
 (Kemble, Chart. 742). The castle was 
 at first held by different knights 
 under the archbishops, and Henry 
 de Essex, Constable of England, is 
 said to have rebuilt it temp. Hen. 
 II. His lands were subsequently 
 forfeited, and the king seized and 
 retained the castle of Saltwood. It 
 was claimed by Becket as among 
 the ancient possessions of his see. 
 Hence the great enmity displayed 
 towards him by Randulf de Broc, 
 who then held it. It was he who 
 executed the orders for the banish- 
 ment of Becket' s relatives 'with a 
 barbarity beyond what was re- 
 quired.' The De Brocs had the 
 charge of the palace at Canterbury 
 during the archbishop's absence, 
 and one of them guided the knights 
 through its passages on the evening 
 of the murder. It was at Saltwood 
 that the four knights assembled after 
 landing separately at Dover and 
 Winchelsea, and here during the 
 night (Dec. 28, 1170) the murder is 
 said to have been concerted, the 
 candles being extinguished, accord- 
 ing to popular belief, since they 
 
 feared to see each other's faces. 
 Hence they rode to Canterbury along 
 the Stone Street, and here was their 
 first resting-place after the murder. 
 (Stanley, Hist. Mem. 50.) King John 
 restored the castle to the arch- 
 bishops, one of whose residences it 
 continued until Cranmer exchanged 
 it for other lands with the Crown. 
 It has since passed through various 
 hands, and is now the property of 
 Mrs. Deedes. 
 
 Saltwood Church (restored) is 
 large, and deserves a visit. The 
 font is enclosed in a case of carved 
 oak. Brasses: John Verien (c. 1370) ; 
 Thomas Brokhill and wife (1437) ; 
 Dame Anne Muston (1496). There 
 is an oak chest in the tower some 
 600 years old. The font has an in- 
 scription in singular characters, said 
 to be intended for Jehsu Marya. 
 
 Near Saltwood Green are the ruins 
 of the* old house of Brockhill and 
 of the small ancient chapel (now 
 part of a neighbouring cottage) 
 which belonged to it. This was the 
 seat of an old family of that name. 
 
 The road to Lymne, 3 m., extends 
 along a tract of high ground over- 
 hanging the marshes, but is not pic- 
 turesque until Lymne itself is nearly 
 reached, when a very fine view sea- 
 ward, extending over Dungeness to 
 Fairlight, opens suddenly. Shep- 
 way Cross, where the Lords War- 
 den of the Cinque Ports were sworn 
 into office, formerly stood at the 
 i cross ways ' in this parish. Here 
 the courts were held, which were 
 afterwards transferred to Romney. 
 The ancient Castrum, known as 
 Studfall Castle, by which name 
 the tourist must inquire for it, 
 occupies a wild and solitary posi- 
 tion somewhat below the crest of 
 this broken tract, at the point 
 where it begins to turn landward. 
 The ruins, though scarcely less in- 
 teresting, are not so intelligible at 
 first sight as those of Richborough 
 or Reculver. The area (about 12 
 acres) is uneven and intersected by 
 hedges ; and the visitor who desires 
 to obtain a proper idea of the situa- 
 
ROUTE 2. HYTHE 
 
 tion of the Castrum, and of its rela- 
 tion to the haven, should walk down 
 to the canal bank and thence look 
 back upon it. The ruins have been 
 much displaced by landslips. 
 
 The plan of the Castrum was more 
 irregular than that of either of those j 
 just mentioned, owing no doubt to 
 the form of the ground. The E. and 
 W. sides were straight ; that on the 
 N. bent upwards in a semi-circular 
 form. On the S., where it over- 
 looked the harbour, there seems to 
 have been no wall, as was also the 
 case at Rich borough. Like the others, 
 it had circular towers (at least 12 in 
 number) at intervals in its line of 
 wall. Nearly in the centre of the 
 E. side was the Decuman gate, 
 flanked by two circular towers. There 
 were many small postern entrances. 
 The walls which are now best seen 
 are the N. and W., large portions of 
 which are yet standing. At the 
 S.W. corner is the most perfect 
 tower remaining (10 ft. high, 45 ft. 
 circumference^. The N. E. and W. 
 sides have fallen outwards in masses 
 so confused as to render it difficult 
 to trace their lines. This is the re- 
 sult of land-slips, to which this 
 whole district is subject. Remark 
 the trowel-marks on the mortar, 
 and some circular perforations in a 
 fragment of wall on the N.E. side, 
 which were probably scaffold-holes, 
 though it has been suggested that 
 they were intended for conveying 
 water. The facing stones and tile 
 bonding courses have suffered greatly 
 in these parts of the wall ; but in 
 the foundations and masses un- 
 covered during the excavations in 
 1850 they were found perfect. The 
 stone used is that of the district, 
 and the central mass of the wall is 
 filled up with rough pieces. The 
 whole works were as carefully 
 finished as those of any modern 
 edifice. 
 
 The walls of Lymne were prob- 
 ably built at a late period of the 
 Roman occupation, since many of 
 the stones appear to have belonged 
 to earlier buildings. In the Decu- 
 
 : LYMNE CHURCH. 41 
 
 man gate part of an altar was dis- 
 covered, bearing the inscription, 
 1 Praefect. Clas. Brit. thus confirm- 
 ing the existence of an early com- 
 pany of 1 British Marines ' (Classiarii 
 Britannici , which had been already 
 guessed at by Mr. Roach Smith, from 
 the letters CI. Br. on tiles found at 
 Dover. Some few ornaments and 
 weapons were also discovered, and 
 some coins, the greater number be- 
 longing to the Constantine family. 
 
 Portus Lemanis is mentioned in 
 all the early Itineraries ; and at the 
 compilation of the Notitia was gar- 
 risoned by the Prepositus Turna- 
 censium, a body of soldiers from 
 Tournay. 
 
 The river Lymne or Lemanis, the 
 Sax. Limene, has been identified 
 with the Rother, which now joins 
 the sea at Rye, having greatly 
 changed its ancient course. It 
 seems doubtful whether it ever 
 flowed near the Castrum ; but from 
 the high ground above the ruins 
 the bay or estuary — the ancient 
 Poriits, now dry land — is distinctly 
 traceable as far as Hythe. The sea- 
 sand lies almost on the surface, and 
 affects the colour of the soil through- 
 out. 
 
 Stud/all, the present name of the 
 ruins, signifies a fallen place; and 
 is found applied to ancient remains 
 in other counties. Besides the land- 
 slips, from which all this district 
 lias suffered, and which have aided 
 in changing the course of the rivers, 
 the castle has been injured by depre- 
 dators like Abp. Lanfranc, who used 
 much of the squared stone for 
 building the church of Lymne * 
 
 The Church, of Lymne, on the hill 
 above Studfall, is large and hand- 
 some. The nave and chancel are 
 E. E., but the tower (built by Lan- 
 franc) is Norman, and many stones 
 from the Roman fortress may be 
 traced in its walls. There are some 
 ancient tombs, ascribed to Archdea- 
 
 * For all that is known of Lymne, and of 
 these .ruins, see C. R. Smith's Antiquit ies of 
 R'chborouyh, Reculver, and Lymne : London, 
 1850. 
 
42 
 
 ROUTE 2. LYMNE CHURCH — SHORNCLIFFE. 
 
 cons of Canterbury. The castellated 
 house adjoining, erected in Henry V.'s 
 reign (and popularly known as the 
 Castle) , which belonged till recently 
 to the Archdeaconry, but is now only 
 a farm, formed part of a 1 castelet 
 embatayled,' as Leland calls it, and 
 is said also to have been the work of 
 Lanfranc, though the existing re- 
 mains are Edwardian. It was prob- 
 ably a watch-tower, the Norm, suc- 
 cessor of the Castrum. The views 
 from this high ground are very fine. 
 
 From Hythe the branch line con- 
 tinues to Sandgate (i| m.), its 
 present terminus. For Sandgate see 
 excursion from Folkestone, p. 45. 
 
 [The road which led from Canter- 
 bury to Portus Lemanis was the 
 Stone Street, which, however, has not 
 been traced in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of the Castrum. From the 
 Westenhanger station it stretches 
 away in a straight line to Street End, 
 3 m. from Canterbury: whence it 
 continues in a less regular course 
 until it joins the road entering 
 Canterbury at Wincheap (p. 250). 
 It serves, with some slight ex- 
 ceptions, as a boundary to the 
 parishes on either side of it. W. 
 of this road, 2 m. from Westen- 
 hanger, and in what was once the 
 park of Mount Moiris (now called 
 Horton Park, J. Kirkpatrick, 
 Esq.), is the Church of Monk's 
 Horton, where there are some 
 remains of stained glass. 1 m. S.W., 
 in a low situation among woods, by 
 the side of a stream, are the re- 
 mains of Horton Priory, now con- 
 verted into a farm-house. A large 
 apartment, now a sitting-room, is 
 panelled, and retains a i6th-cent. 
 ceiling, the compartments of which 
 are richly ornamented. Some re- 
 mains of the W. front, and an 
 arch in one of the offices, belong to 
 the original building and are Tr.- 
 Norman. The whole deserves ex- 
 amination. The Priory, founded 
 early in the reign of Henry II by 
 Robert de Vere, was Cluniac, and a 
 cell of the famous house of St. 
 
 Pancras at Lewes. It was made 
 'indigena' by Edward III. The 
 manor of Monk's Horton was at- 
 tached to it ; but the Priory was of 
 no great value when resigned to 
 King Henry's commissioners. From 
 the Priory a field-path leads to the 
 Westenhanger Station, i| m. 
 
 Stowting Church, 1 m. N. of 
 Monk's Horton, has been beautifully 
 restored by a late rector, the Rev. 
 F. Wrench, and contains several 
 objects of interest. The S. window 
 on the E. of the Porch, contains 
 some remarkable stained glass to the 
 memory of Ricardus and Juliana de 
 Stotyne (circa 1500), with kneeling 
 figures and canopy work, apparently 
 of foreign design. There are some 
 fine yew-trees in the churchyard ; 
 and at the rectory is a collection of 
 Saxon remains discovered from time 
 to time in the parish. On the chalk 
 hills, here called 'the backbone of 
 Kent,' were discovered, not many 
 years since, at least 30 skeletons 
 and many Romano-British remains, 
 indicating either a cemetery or the 
 locality of a battle.] 
 
 Leaving Sandling Junction, the 
 line intersects Sandling Park, the pro- 
 perty of Colonel Deedes, whose 
 family, for the last two centuries, 
 has held a conspicuous place in the 
 political history of the county. The 
 park, formed out of portions of the 
 ancient parks of Saltwood and Wes- 
 tenhanger, is remarkable for the 
 beauty and variety of the scenery. 
 The first glimpse of the sea is gained 
 soon after passing the Saltwood 
 tunnel, cut through the greensand. 
 The ruins of Saltwood Castle are 
 here visible at some distance rt.. 
 and on one of the conical hills 1., 
 which are characteristic of this dis- 
 trict, is the summer-house of Beach- 
 borough {post). The house lies behind, 
 and is not seen from the line. 
 
 69 m. Shorn cliff e (Stat.). Here 
 the Elham Valley line, from Can- 
 terbury (see p. 47, &c.) joins the 
 main line. The camp, \ m. S. ; is 
 
ROUTE 2. — FOLKESTONE I THE CHURCH. 
 
 43 
 
 mainly composed of wooden huts, of 
 very unprepossessing appearance, 
 but the views from the heights on 
 which it stands are very fine (post). 
 
 Nearing Folkestone, the line is 
 carried over the Ford Valley viaduct, 
 which is 758 ft. long, and consists of 
 19 arches, some of them 100 ft. high. 
 
 70 m. Radnor Park Station, 
 close to the building which in 1886 
 served as the Folkestone Exhibition, 
 and to Radnor Park, a pleasure 
 ground of 20 acres, opened in 1886. 
 
 70} m. Folkestone Junction, a 
 branch line turns off S. to 
 
 71 1 m. Folkestone Harbour 
 
 (Stat.)*. 
 
 FOLKESTONE. — The town (Pop. 
 23,700) is situated at the E. ex- 
 tremity of the rich plain which 
 extends from the entrance of the 
 valley of Elham to the sea, and 
 is protected from the north winds 
 by a range of high hills, among 
 which the hill called Castle Hill 
 (or Caesar's Camp) and the Sugar- 
 loaf Hill, are conspicuous for the 
 boldness of their outline. This 
 position, and the advantage of the 
 picturesque road under the cliff to 
 Sandgate and Hythe (p. 38) recom- 
 mend it to those invalids who require 
 a mild climate during the winter. 
 
 The name, which first occurs 
 a. d. 835 as 1 Folcanstane ' (Kemble, 
 Chart. 235), has been variously in- 
 terpreted Folks-stane (the people's 
 rock) — the rock of the small people 
 (fairies), thinks Baxter — or Flos- 
 stane, ; a flaw in the rock/ which, 
 says Lambarde, 'beginneth here.' 
 The place, which was a manor be- 
 longing to Godwin, and after the 
 Conquest became a 1 limb ' of the 
 Dover Cinque Port, was known in 
 mediaeval times for little more than 
 its Priory of St. Eanswith, but it 
 grew into some reputation toward 
 the end of the last century for the 
 1 free-trade ' propensities of its in- 
 habitants. The real prosperity of 
 Folkestone, however, dates from the 
 opening of the railway in 1844, the 
 
 [Kent.} 
 
 consequent improvement of its har- 
 bour, and the establishment of 
 packets to Boulogne. New streets, 
 and villas, and churches sprang up ; 
 and the icicle sea-view from the Lees, 
 or promenade on the top of the cliff, 
 always alive with vessels, the plea- 
 sant neighbourhood, and the great 
 excellence of the air, combine to 
 make Folkestone an attractive 
 watering-place. 
 
 The chief relic of ancient Folke- 
 stone is the Church (dedicated to 
 SS. Mary and Eanswith), which 
 stands very picturesquely on the W. 
 cliff. The tower is placed between 
 the nave and chancel : this last is 
 E. E., with an unusually high- 
 pitched roof, and is very interest in u. 
 A great part of the nave fell during 
 a storm in 1705, and only a portion 
 was rebuilt. The church has been 
 thoroughly restored, and the navo 
 extended two bays to the westward. 
 The reredos and arcading in the 
 sanctuary have boon enriched with 
 mosaics by Cappello ; and the wall 
 of N. aisle decorated with mural 
 paintings by Hemming. The E 
 wall of the N. transept has been 
 painted (1890) with a Tree of Jesse, 
 figures of Kings of Israel up to our 
 Lord, and the Virgin borne on its 
 branches, amidst delicate foliage. 
 The font is Perp. On the N. side of 
 the chancel is a much shattered 
 altar- tomb, of late Dec. character 
 and good design, with an effigy, in 
 all probability that of Sir John de 
 Segrave (died 1349), Lord of Folke- 
 stone. (See Arch. Cant, vol. ii. Mr. 
 Blore suggests it may represent 
 Richard de Rokesle, Lord of Folke- 
 stone, died 1320. The armour is, 
 according to him, of this date ; and 
 the entire monument resembles one 
 in St. Peter's, Sandwich, and another 
 in Ash church.) In the S. chancel 
 is a i7th-cent. monument for John 
 Herdson ; and a Brass in the nave, 
 which deserves notice, commemo- 
 rates Joan Harvey, d. 1605, who 
 among other virtues is praised as 
 'a charitable, quiet neighbour,' and 
 who was the mother of William 
 
 F 
 
44 
 
 ROUTE 2. — FOLKESTONE: CASTLE — PIERS. 
 
 Harvey, discoverer of the circulation 
 of the blood, born here, Apr. i, 1578. 
 A new aisle was erected in 1874 as 
 a i Harvey Memorial/ and likewise 
 a painted window, paid for by con- 
 tributions from more than 3000 
 medical men. Adjoining the N. 
 door is a vault, which once contained 
 a collection of skulls resembling that 
 at Hythe (ante). In the Singing Gal- 
 lery is the stone lid of an early coffin 
 bearing a cross of unusual shape. 
 
 A Benedictine nunnery, dedicated 
 to SS. Mary and Eanswith, is said 
 to have been founded here in 630, 
 by Eadbald, King of Kent, whose 
 daughter Eanswith was first prioress. 
 This was destroyed by the Danes, 
 and said to have been refounded on 
 the present site by Nigel de Man- 
 ville (or de Muneville), in 1137. It 
 was attached as a cell to the Norman 
 Abbey of Lonlay, in the diocese 
 of Seez. Some scanty remains, 
 thought to indicate the site of this 
 priory, exist in the vicarage garden ; 
 and much so-called Eoman tile was 
 traceable among the ruins in Has- 
 ted's time. The body of St. Eans- 
 with, daughter of King Eadbald of 
 Kent, was removed from the castle 
 to the existing ch. Human remains, 
 probably those of St. Eanswith, were 
 discovered in the N. wall of the 
 chancel in 1885, inclosed in a leaden 
 reliquary of the 12th cent. This 
 reliquary had been translated to St. 
 Eanswith' s from St. Peter's church, 
 which had been swept away to the 
 sea. Eanswith, who, it will be re- 
 membered, was the granddaughter 
 of King Ethelbert, died on Aug. 31st, 
 640. The discovery was therefore 
 one of almost unique interest. 
 
 The Castle of Folkestone, which 
 stood on the cliff, a short distance 
 S. of the ch., is said to have been 
 founded by King Eadbald of Kent, 
 about 630, on the site of a Roman 
 watch - tower. A later Norman 
 fortress was built on the same site 
 by the great house of Avranches 
 (de Abrincis), who became lords of 
 Folkestone soon after the Conquest. 
 The present Bail (^ba Ilium) marks 
 
 the spot, and a length of ancient 
 wall on the E. side may perhaps be 
 Norm. The bail-pond, or reservoir, 
 is supplied with water from St. 
 Eanswith's spring, which she brought 
 miraculously here from Lyminge, 
 1 over the hils and rocks to her 
 oratorie at the seaside/ Within this 
 castle was the nunnery of St. 
 Eanswith, destroyed during the 
 Danish ravages, and afterwards 
 replaced by the Benedictine priory, 
 which in its turn was removed near 
 the site of the present ch. St. Eans- 
 with, daughter of King Eadbald, 
 who is himself said to have founded 
 a church ded. to St. Peter at Folke- 
 stone (Capgrave), was one of the many 
 canonized Kentish princesses, and 
 her nunnery, according to Tanner, 
 was the first female religious house 
 established in Saxon England. Her 
 aunt JEdilberge was at the head of an- 
 other at Lyminge (about 6 m. N.W.), 
 founded after her return from North- 
 umbria with Paulinus in 633. 
 
 Fragments of Saxon arms and pot- 
 tery, marking the site of a Saxon 
 cemetery, have been found here in 
 the Bail ; i one of many proofs that 
 the Christian missionaries esta- 
 blished their churches not unfre- 
 quently near the places of burial of 
 the unconverted Saxons.' — Wright. 
 There may have been, as Mr. Wright 
 suggests, another reason for the 
 establishment of Eadbald's church 
 and Eanswith's nunnery here ; if, as 
 seems probable, there was a deserted 
 Roman settlement at Folkestone, its 
 ruined buildings furnished ready 
 materials for the mason. 
 
 The Piers, enclosing the harbour 
 of Folkestone, were commenced in 
 1808, and the work was carried out 
 by Telford. The harbour, however, 
 was not rendered available until the 
 opening of the railway in 1844, when 
 it was cleared from its accumulation 
 of shingle; but there is still diffi- 
 culty in keeping it open. A low- 
 water landing-pier was added in 
 1861, laid with a double line of rails, 
 along which trains can advance 
 close to the steam-packets. 
 
ROUTE 2. — FOLKESTONE: CASTLE HILL. 
 
 45 
 
 The views from the pier extend 
 to Shakespeare's Cliff E., and across 
 the marshes to Fanlight Down above 
 Hastings, W. Eastward stretches 
 away the French coast, the flagstaff 
 on the heights at Boulogne being 
 distinctly visible in clear weather. 
 
 The harbour is now 14 acres in 
 extent. A Lift from the beach to the 
 i Lees' was erected in 1887 : and a 
 promenade pier in 1888. Among 
 modern buildings worth notice are 
 the large Baths, the Victoria 
 Hospital, and the St. Andrew's 
 Convalescent Home. The Ter- 
 centenary Memorial to Dr. Harvey 
 is on the Lees : the statue (bronze) 
 is by Bruce Joy. 
 
 Along the shore, between Folke- 
 stone and Hythe, the yellow horned 
 poppy (Glaucium luteum) grows in 
 abundance. Scraped upwards, says 
 ancient folklore, its root is a power- 
 ful emetic ; downwards an excellent 
 cathartic. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Folkestone 
 abounds in interest for the geologist. 
 At Copt Point, beyond Eastwear Bay, 
 with its picturesque cliffs, is a very 
 fine section of the gault, which un- 
 derlies the chalk and upper green- 
 sand. Ammonites, belemnites, nau- 
 tili, and other characteristic fossils 
 of the gault, may here be procured 
 in plenty, the constant slipping of 
 the cliff affording the greatest facility 
 for its examination. 'At Copt Point 
 the lower greensand rises from be- 
 neath the gault, and the line of junc- 
 tion of the two beds is well defined 
 on the face of the cliff thence to 
 Folkestone. A layer of coniferous 
 wood occurs just above this line of 
 junction.' Between Eastwear Bay 
 and Folkestone is the Warren, a 
 favourite resort for picnic excursions. 
 About \ m. from the town is a chaly- 
 beate spring, more beneficial than 
 agreeable. 
 
 Walks from Folkestone may be — 
 along the cliff to Sandgate, 2 m., 
 pop. 1,756, commanding noble sea- 
 views. Sandgate is a small bathing- 
 place of some reputation, with a 
 very picturesque country inland. 
 
 Its Castle, on the site of an earlier 
 one, at which Henry of Bolingbroke 
 embarked when exiled by Richard 
 II., was one of those built by Henry 
 VIII. for the defence of the coast, 
 on the same plan as its brothers at 
 Deal and Walmer. It was some- 
 what altered in 1806, when the Mar- 
 tell o towers were constructed here. 
 At the same time an encampment 
 was formed at Shorncliffe, between 
 Sandgate and Hythe, which soon 
 became of importance. Sir John 
 Moore trained some of the old Penin- 
 sular regiments here. Hut-barracks 
 were subsequently built, which, 
 during the Crimean war, were ap- 
 propriated to the Foreign Legion, 
 reviewed on the Downs above by 
 Queen Victoria in the autumn of 
 1855. The camp has been since 
 greatly enlarged, and from 4000 
 to 5000 men are usually stationed 
 there. A church, hospital, reading- 
 rooms, &c, have been built, and 
 water is supplied from the reservoir 
 at Cherry Gardens. 
 
 About 2 m. N. of Folkestone, and 
 seen 1. from the railway, is a re- 
 markable series of conical chalk- 
 hills, almost all of which are crowned 
 with ancient tumuli or with intrench - 
 ments. The three largest are Sugarloaf 
 Hill, Castle Hill, and Idsford Hill. 
 The first is crested with a large low 
 barrow, probably of British origin. 
 (The Saxon mounds, as those on Bar- 
 nam Downs (Rte. 3\ are generally 
 much smaller.) A road has been cut 
 into the side of the hill, and winds 
 round to the top. At the foot is a 
 spring called St. Thomas's Well. 
 Castle Hill, or Caesar's Camp, which 
 4 the country people ' in Lambarde's 
 time 'ascribed to King Ethelbert, the 
 first godly king of this shy re,' has on 
 its summit 'three lines of intrench - 
 ments, of which the first incloses a 
 very considerable space of a long 
 oval form. In the S. end, seaward, is 
 a second intrenchment, rising im- 
 mediately within the former, but 
 leaving a large open area within the 
 outer intrenchment to the N. Within 
 
 f a 
 
46 
 
 ROUTE 2. — FOLKESTONE: SWINGFIELD. 
 
 the inner intrenchment again, on the 
 highest point of the hill, is another 
 circular intrenchment, closely re- 
 sembling (though not so large) that 
 which incloses the Pharos at Dover. 
 In fact, after examining Dover Castle 
 closely, its original intrenchments 
 seem to me to have borne so close a 
 resemblance to the so-called 1 Cae- 
 sar's Camp' on the hill I am de- 
 scribing, that I am inclined to believe 
 that this latter also was the site of 
 a Roman Pharos, that served as a 
 guide to the sailors approaching the 
 coast.' — Wright. Roman tiles and 
 pottery have been found within these 
 intrenchments, and 'there are many 
 inequalities in the ground which 
 seem to indicate the sites of former 
 buildings.' Roman burial urns have 
 been found in the field below. From 
 all these hills noble views are com- 
 manded. 
 
 Cherry Garden Valley, below 
 Caesar's Camp, has scattered among 
 its ash -trees some very ancient 
 cherry and apple-trees. There is a 
 small inn here, where refreshments 
 may be procured. 
 
 Cheriton, 2 m. W. of Folkestone, 
 has an E. E. Church, of interest, 
 which has (1861) been satisfactorily 
 restored. It contains a brass to J. 
 Child, rector, 1474 : remarkable as 
 showing him in academical robes. 
 The tower is of peculiar interest : 
 probably pre-Norman ; certainly 
 older than the nth cent. There are 
 three singular monumental effigies, 
 probably 14th cent. There is a 
 picturesque arcade in the chancel. 
 The sea- view from the ch.-yd. is 
 very fine, and the walk to Sea- 
 brook, near Hythe (2 m.), is an ex- 
 ceedingly pleasant one. 
 
 ik m. beyond, in the parish of 
 Newington, is Beachborough-house, the 
 seat of F. D. Brockman, Esq., whose 
 family has resided here from the 
 time of Queen Elizabeth, a branch 
 of the same family having been 
 settled in Lyminge in 1470. There 
 are many family portraits in the 
 house, including that of Sir William 
 
 Brockman, the defender of Maid- 
 stone against the Parliament in 1648. 
 His coat and sword are preserved. 
 On a hill adjoining the house is a 
 summer-house (which strangers are 
 allowed to visit) commanding very 
 fine and extensive land and sea views. 
 
 The return may be made to em- 
 brace TQewington (1 mile N.W. of 
 Cheriton), where the Church de- 
 serves a visit. The font was formerly 
 cased in carved oak, like that of Salt- 
 wood, but the casing has been con- 
 verted into a pulpit. Brasses : a lady, 
 c. 1480. Thos. Chylton, 1501. John 
 Clerk, vicar, 1501. Richard Kynge 
 and three wives, 1522. From the 
 hills above Hythe, about 1 m. be- 
 yond Newington, there is a magni- 
 ficent view S. and W. 
 
 [Longer excursions may- be made, to 
 Hythe, 5 m., and thence to Salt- 
 wood and Lymne (ante) ; to Swing- 
 field (properly ' Swainfield ') Minnis, 
 4 \ m. N., where are the remains of 
 a Preceptory of the Knights of St. 
 John ; and to St. Radigund's 
 Abbey, 5 m. (post). 
 
 (a) The excursion to Swingfield 
 will take the tourist among the 
 chalk-hills N. of Folkestone, a pic- 
 turesque district abounding in small 
 Norm, churches. 
 
 The Preceptory, a farm now called 
 St. John's, lies at the further end of 
 the Minnis, or Common (Celt. Maenys 
 — a stony heath), and just beyond 
 the ch. The principal remains, at the 
 E. end of the present house, are those 
 of the chapel, and are Tr.-Norm. and 
 E. E. At the E. end are three lancets 
 with three circular openings in 
 the high-pitched gable above them. 
 Other portions of the original build- 
 ing remain worked into the house, 
 and should be examined. A Com- 
 mandery of Knights Templars cer- 
 tainly existed here early in the reign 
 of Henry II., though by whom it 
 was originally founded is unknown. 
 On the dissolution of the order of the 
 Temple in 13 12 their lands at Swing- 
 field were granted to the Knights of 
 St. John. Rich, de Swingfield, Bp. 
 
ROUTE 2. — ALKHAM — LYMINGE CHURCH. 
 
 47 
 
 of Hereford, a native of this place, 
 d. 1316. He is said to have trans- 
 planted a little colony of Swingfield 
 men to Hereford. The scene of King 
 John's submission to Pandulph has 
 frequently been laid here. It really 
 took place, however, in the Church 
 of the Templars, at Dover (post). 
 
 Alkham, 2 m. S.E. of Swingfield, 
 has an interesting E. E. ch. In this 
 church is a fine North Chapel : and on 
 the opposite side of the chancel a tomb 
 with a singular rhyming inscription 
 to one 'Herbertus, Simonis Proles, 
 vir opertus.' The church in the ad- 
 joining parish of Capel le Feme has a 
 remarkable kind of triple arch, 
 forming a screen between nave and 
 chancel. 
 
 Acrise, 2 m. W. from Swingfield, 
 has a chancel arch, which is Trans- 
 Norm., and of singular character. 
 Brass: Mary Hay men, 1601. Acrise 
 Place (formerly the seat of the 
 Papillons, now of W. A. Mackinnon, 
 Esq.) is an early brick mansion of 
 some interest. 
 
 (6) Excursion by Elham Valley R. 
 
 An Excursion may be made by the 
 Elham Valley Railway from Folke- 
 stone to Canterbury. Turning off 
 the main line shortly after passing 
 Shorncliffe we reach in 3 m. LY- 
 MINGE Station, close to the 
 ancient and interesting church. 
 
 Lyminge Church, which is of 
 various periods, will well repay a 
 careful examination. Outside the 
 church on the S. side are the remains 
 of the Nunnery founded by Ethel- 
 berga, the only daughter of Ethel- 
 bert and Bertha, and widow of 
 Edwin king of Northumberland, on 
 the lands granted to her by her 
 brother Eadbald on her return to 
 Kent after the disastrous battle of 
 Heathfield (a.d. 633). Montalembert 
 (Moines d'Occident, Tom. V. p. 273) 
 describes her in her character of 
 daughter of the founder of Canter- 
 bury and widow of the founder of 
 York, as 'le premier anneau entre 
 les deux grands foyers de la vie 
 catholique chez les Anglo-Saxons.' 
 The monastery was a double founda- 
 
 tion (according to the then Benedic- 
 tine plan) including a nunnery and 
 monastery, the former of which was 
 removed to Canterbury about 804, 
 the latter by St. Dunstan in 965. The 
 apsidal building adjoining the ch. 
 represents evidently the remains 
 of the Nunnery Church, while 
 further on in the church-yard the 
 massive foundations of the Basi- 
 lical Church are still visible. The 
 work is so Roman in character as to 
 have led the members of the 
 Archaeological Institute to believe 
 it to belong to a church included in 
 the Roman Villa of Lyminge, 
 which is said to have been granted 
 with the lands to Ethelburga. The 
 fact, however, that her burial-place 
 is distinctly traced in the disin- 
 terred building proved that the 
 whole was her work, and that she 
 utilised the fragments of the earlier 
 building, as St. Dunstan afterwards 
 did the materials of her own. For 
 in 965,after dissolving the Monastery 
 and annexing it to Christ Church, 
 he rebuilt the church in a rude 
 fashion 'ecclesiam utcumque re 
 paravit.' The South Wall of the 
 nave and the entire Chancel repre- 
 sent this early restoration which, 
 in the peculiarity of its masonry is 
 altogether unique, being built in 
 irregular herringbone work with 
 joints nearly as wide as the stones 
 themselves, and with occasional 
 bonding courses of Roman bricks 
 and flat iron-stones or flints. The 
 arches of the small windows of the 
 chancel and the nave are turned 
 with Roman bricks, and a curious 
 recess in the wall of the latter is 
 formed of the same materials. The 
 arches between the nave and the 
 N. aisle, which are very good speci- 
 mens of Perpendicular work, were 
 built by Cardinal Bourchier (whose 
 arms in painted glass are in the 
 window over the S. door) about the 
 year 1480. The tower (as the arms 
 on either side of the W. door in- 
 dicate) was begun by Cardinal Mor- 
 ton and finished by Abp. Warham. 
 The Chancel arch appears to be 
 
48 
 
 EOUTE 2. — LYMINGE — ELHAM. 
 
 one of the reparations effected by 
 Abp. Peckham when he visited the 
 4 Aula ' or 4 Camera ' de Lyminge in 
 1 281. It exactly resembles the fly- 
 ing buttress at the S.W. angle of the 
 church, which was also most probably 
 of the same date. The E. Window, 
 which belongs to the period of 
 Warham ( 1 5 1 1 ) , is filled with stained 
 glass of great beauty, by Gibbs of 
 Bedford Square, under the superin- 
 tendence of Mr. Butterfield 1 . Ly- 
 minge lies about one mile E. from 
 the 4 Stone-street ' road, the Eo- 
 man 'Via Liminsea,' which forms 
 its western boundary for several 
 miles. The charters relating to it 
 ( about 14 in number) comprise some 
 of the earliest and most authentic 
 of the Saxon Chartulary. The 
 originals are in the British Museum 
 (MSB. Cotton, and Harl.), the place 
 being described in several of them 
 as that 4 wherein rests the body of 
 St. Eadburg' — the shortened name 
 of Ethelburga. The church is de- 
 cribed in the charter of King Wiht- 
 red, a. d. 697, as the ' Basilica of St. 
 Mary the Mother of God in Lyminge/ 
 It is always open to visitors from 
 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer, and 
 from 10 to 4 in winter. 
 
 Paddles worth Church, on very 
 high ground 1 \ mile S. of Acrise, is 
 Norman, but has several earlier 
 features ; the diminutive windows 
 having a double splay, while long 
 and short work appears in some of 
 the quoins. The Chancel arch, 
 supported by two slender Norman 
 pillars closely engaged, is an in- 
 teresting feature, and the N. and S. 
 doorways are worthy of special 
 notice ; the latter formed one of the 
 illustrations of the late Mr. Streat- 
 field's projected history. A round 
 stone of great massiveness is used 
 as the support of the font, but is 
 evidently a relic of remote antiquity, 
 as baptisms were celebrated till 
 recently in the Mother Church at 
 Lyminge. There is a small piscina 
 
 1 For further details see An Historical 
 Sketch of the Church of Lyminqe, by the Rev. 
 R. C. Jenkins: Folkestone, 1859. 
 
 in the chancel and a bracket on 
 which stood the image of St. Oswald. 
 The church, which is celebrated as 
 the smallest in form and highest in 
 site of the south-eastern side of the 
 county, is as remarkable in its 
 dedication, being the only one in 
 Southern England dedicated to St. 
 Oswald, the Northumbrian king, the 
 nephew of St. Ethelburga the foun- 
 dress of the church and nunnery of 
 Lyminge. The monks of St. Radi- 
 gund had a grange here in early 
 times, and possibly the beautiful 
 S. doorway may be referred to 
 their work. The land at Paddles- 
 worth was granted to the monastery 
 at Lyminge by a charter of King' 
 Oswini in 689, and is described as 
 a place 4 in which there is a mine of 
 iron'— the iron-stone which is dug 
 up in the hills and out of which the 
 church is chiefly built having then 
 been smelted here. The hill on 
 which the church stands is 650 ft. 
 above the sea, and the clump of 
 trees near it, but just within the 
 parish of Folkestone, is said to be a 
 prominent sea mark. 
 
 2 m. N. of Lyminge we reach 
 ELHAM Station, close to the 
 town (?) which was formerly one of 
 the manors of Juliana de Leybourne, 
 the 4 Infanta of Kent/ and has a large 
 and handsome ch. partly of the 
 Transition, partly of the E. E. style. 
 The Church was bestowed in 1268 
 upon the Warden and Fellows of 
 Merton College, Oxford, who are still 
 patrons of the benefice. The square 
 pillars of the nave are of very early 
 date and massive size. The chancel 
 is a restoration, three E. E. lancets 
 having succeeded a Perp. window 
 which occupied nearly the whole of 
 the eastern wall of the chancel. A 
 library, bequeathed to the ch. by Dr. 
 Warley, of Canterbury, in 1809, and 
 preserved in the vestry, contains 
 among other rare books, a valuable 
 collection of tracts of the period of 
 the Great Rebellion. 
 
 Continuing somewhat N. E. from 
 Elham the line passes through the 
 
ROUTE 2. — BARHAM — ARCHCLIFF FORT. 49 
 
 verdant Elham valley (to the r. is 
 Denton, with small E. E. church 
 among the woods) to Barham stat. 
 
 Barham Church, chiefly Decorated, 
 but partly E. E. and Perpendicular, 
 has a good tower and copper- sheathed 
 spire. The N. transept belongs to 
 the Dering family, and the S. tran- 
 sept to the Oxendens, the owners of 
 Broome Park (between Barham and 
 the high road to Dover). On the 
 downs above Barham upwards of 
 300 barrows have been opened, and 
 Roman, British, and Saxon antiqui- 
 ties discovered. 
 
 Beyond Barham the line passes 
 close by Kingstone (small Perpen- 
 dicular church) to Bishopsbourne 
 sta., whence, via Bridge and South 
 Canterbury (adjoining the Beverley 
 Cricket Ground), it proceeds to the S.E. 
 station at Canterbury. Bishops- 
 bourne and Bridge are described in 
 the excursion from Canterbury on 
 pp. 150, 151.] 
 
 (c) Those who are not afraid of 8 
 or 10 m. rough walking, may make 
 their way from Folkestone to Dover 
 along the shore of Eastwear Bay. 
 The Undercliff has been greatly 
 interfered with by the railway, but 
 there are many picturesque bits re- 
 maining, and there are zig-zag roads 
 and paths (particularly at Lydden 
 Spout and Capel), which give access 
 to the high road if the beach-walk 
 should threaten to prove too fatigu- 
 ing ; the Undercliff, however, is a 
 complete flower-bed of several of the 
 more rare species of orchis, and 
 should not be left unvisited. 
 
 Turning eastward from the Junc- 
 tion Station, and passing between 
 Martello towers 1 and 2 , a walk of 2 m. 
 % brings the tourist to the site of a 
 coastguard station, abandoned be- 
 cause dangerous, from which the 
 whole of the coast as far as Shake- 
 speare's Cliff is commanded. 1 1 m. 
 further is the Great Gun platform, 
 with two ship guns in position, and a 
 store of rockets, life-lines., &c, for the 
 use of the coastguard, one of whom 
 
 is usually at hand to explain matters 
 if required. Then succeeds 1 m. of 
 fine firm sand, affording excellent 
 walking, and next we meet with 
 masses of fallen chalk of huge size, 
 beyond which again is a wall of 
 cliffs, nearly 500 ft. high, through 
 which the railway is tunnelled, and 
 from the face of which gushes the 
 pretty small waterfall called Lyd- 
 den Spout, at least so much as is 
 left after a large part has been 
 intercepted in the tunnel and car- 
 ried off to the reservoir of the 
 Folkestone waterworks. \ m. E. 
 is Peter Becker's Stairs, a 
 series of 391 steps and several in- 
 clines, which leads to the coastguard 
 station on the top of the cliff (490 ft. 
 high). The walk continues below 
 the heights of Abbot's Cliff to Shake- 
 speare's Cliff, on nearing which the 
 traveller had better ascend from the 
 beach by the path, and walk over it 
 into Dover. Between the Abbot's 
 Cliff and Shakespeare's Cliff, he will 
 pass the Channel Tunnel works 
 (now quiescent, but possibly to be 
 some day continued), where a shaft 
 has been sunk, and a submarine 
 tunnel to communicate with the 
 French coast has been commenced. 
 Here, too, the boring has revealed the 
 discovery of coal below the chalk, 
 and there is a possibility of S. Kent 
 yet proving a 1 black country.' The 
 path enters Dover between the 
 Citadel on the Western Heights 
 on 1. and Archcliff Fort on rt. 
 When the tide is falling it is possible 
 to walk round the cliff, and so by the 
 side of the viaduct to the Admiralty 
 Pier at Dover, but this lengthens 
 the journey 2 m. at least, and can 
 hardly be recommended, although 
 the vast masses of fallen cliff that 
 are seen heaped up in chaotic confu- 
 sion present a fine sight ; they can 
 be viewed more easily, though not 
 so well, from a boat. 
 
 Just beyond Folkestone the Rail- 
 way enters on the chalk, and passes 
 through a series of tunnels and deep 
 cuttings, between which are plea- 
 
50 
 
 ROUTE 2. — DOVER 
 
 DOVER COLLEGE. 
 
 sant glimpses of the sea, rt., and of 
 the picturesque country, 1., to Dover. 
 The whole course here is a series of 
 engineering triumphs. First in 
 order is the Martello Tunnel (766 
 yards), so named from the towers on 
 its top. To this succeeds the Warren 
 Cutting on the shore of Eastwear 
 Bay ; it is 2 m. long, and the cliffs, 
 which are very lofty and of pic- 
 turesque outline, are cut at an angle 
 of 70 0 (thus, V ). Then succeeds the 
 Abbott's ClifFTunnel ( 1 940 yards) , 
 and, on account of its depth below 
 the surface, ventilated by openings 
 in the face of the cliff. Between 
 this spot and the double tunnel 
 through Shakespeare's Cliff, the line 
 is carried on a strong sea wall over 
 the site of Round Down, a mass of 
 chalk, 300 ft. long, 375 ft. high, and 
 70 ft. in average thickness, the whole 
 of which during the construction 
 of the line, was removed by gun- 
 powder, fired by means of galvanic 
 batteries, under the direction of 
 Col. Pasley, R. E., Jan. 26, 1843. 
 Long galleries, with shafts and cham- 
 bers, were constructed in the cliff; 
 18,500 lbs. (180 barrels) of powder 
 were placed in them, and, after the 
 discharge from the batteries the 
 rock, without any violent explosion 
 — <a low murmur lasting hardly 
 more than half a second' — 1 glided 
 like a stream into the sea,' distant 
 about 100 yds. from its base. About 
 18 acres were covered with the chalk 
 fragments, which were afterwards 
 used in the formation of a sea-wall. 
 
 Passing through the tunnel under 
 Shakespeare's Cliff (1331 yds., 
 nearly f m.), the line is carried on a 
 lofty timber viaduct over the sea, 
 next burrows under the Archcliff 
 Fort, and, having descended 120 ft. 
 from Folkestone, reaches 
 
 76 m. Dover Terminus.* 
 DOVER (Pop 33,418) is bustling 
 and full of movement : now that the 
 railway facilities are so great, people 
 come and go without remaining to 
 sleep as they used to do. 
 
 No idea, however, of the beauty 
 
 or of the general situation of Dover 
 can be obtained until the visitor 
 has climbed either the Castle Hill 
 or the Western Heights, or 
 
 better, both. The town itself lies 
 in the valley between them, down 
 which runs the little stream of the 
 Dour (Dwr, Brit, water), giving its 
 name to the Roman port and town 
 of Duhrce, whence the modern Dover. 
 Dover is supposed to have been 
 the spot where Caesar's men decided 
 not to attempt a landing owing to 
 the steepness of the cliffs and the 
 numbers of the inhabitants. After 
 the conquest of Britain a Roman 
 town was built here. The remains 
 of a statue, of exquisite workman- 
 ship, discovered during excavations 
 in the market-place in 1887, and the 
 objects of art found in a field ad- 
 joining Dover College, point to 
 the fact of the adornment of 
 Dover in Roman times in a manner 
 at one time hardly suspected. (For 
 details see Arch. Cant. vol. xviii.) 
 The walls and gates of this Roman 
 town have been traced. Little 
 is recorded of Dover during the 
 Saxon period, and the Northmen are 
 not known to have troubled it. It 
 was burnt and suffered much at the 
 Conquest, but afterwards soon rose 
 in importance. The castle was en- 
 larged and strengthened, and nu- 
 merous churches and religious houses 
 were built in the town below. Dover 
 became one of the 'Keys of England' 
 (the lock and key — 'clavis et repa- 
 gulum regni ' — it is called by Matt. 
 Paris) ; and the strength of its castle, 
 which enabled Hubert de Burgh to 
 hold out during the siege by Louis 
 of France (121 6), in all probability 
 saved England from a French dy- 
 nasty. On this occasion Philip 
 Augustus swore by 1 St. James's arm' 
 that nothing was done till Dover 
 was gained. After the battle of 
 Lewes, 1264, when Henry III. was 
 defeated by the barons, his son 
 Prince Edward and other prisoners 
 were confined in this castle. Ed- 
 ward was freed the next year, and 
 afterwards besieged the castle, set- 
 
ROUTE 2. — DOVER: THE CASTLE. 
 
 51 
 
 ting at liberty his friends, who, in 
 the mean time, had risen on the 
 guard and taken the keep. 
 
 During the civil war Dover Castle 
 fell by stratagem into the hands of 
 the Parliamentarians. On the night 
 of August i, 1642, a merchant of 
 Dover named Drake, an eager Par- 
 liamentarian, scaled the cliff on the 
 side next the sea with a few fol- 
 lowers, and, before the garrison were 
 on the alert to repel them, threw 
 open the gates. The king's party 
 tried in vain to recover it, both then 
 and at a subsequent siege in 1648. 
 
 Numberless are the great person- 
 ages who at different times have 
 landed or sailed from here. From 
 Dover Richard I. embarked for Pa- 
 lestine in 1 189. In 1382 Anne of 
 Bohemia, the bride of Richard II., 
 arrived here. The sea 'fell into 
 fury' immediately after her land- 
 ing, and the ship she had left was 
 dashed to pieces. The Emperor Si- 
 gismund, in 1416, landed at Dover 
 to mediate between Henry V. and 
 France. Here in 1520 Henry VIII. 
 embarked in his i grete shippe,' the 
 Harry Grace-de-Dieu, for the Field 
 of the Cloth of Gold ; and here, two 
 years later, the Emperor Charles V. 
 landed, and was received on the 
 beach by Wolsey. King Henry him- 
 self arrived the next day, and the 
 two monarchs rode hence in state to 
 Canterbury. In the narrow strait 
 between Dover and Calais the Ar- 
 mada received its first great check 
 (see post). Henrietta Maria landed 
 here as a bride in 1625, and in 1642 
 again sailed from Dover on her de- 
 parture for France, having taken 
 leave of Charles I. in the castle. 
 Charles II. first touched English 
 ground at Dover on his restoration, 
 May 25, 1660, and was received by 
 General Monk under a canopy 
 erected on the beach, the mayor at 
 the same time presenting hisMajesty 
 with a 1 large Bible with gold clasps 
 embossed.' From the castle cliffs 
 and from the beach ' an innumerable 
 company of gazers ' beheld the fleet 
 of William of Orange, as, Nov. 3, 
 
 1688, it passed the straits, * spread- 
 ing to within a league of Dover on 
 the N. and of Calais on the S., so 
 that the men of war on the extreme 
 1. and rt. saluted both fortresses at 
 once/ Louis XVIII., after his 
 English exile, left Dover for 
 France, April 23, 1814 ; and the 
 allied sovereigns landed at Dover, 
 from Boulogne, on the 6th of June 
 in the same year. Prince Albert 
 arrived here on the occasion of his 
 marriage. Not the least remark- 
 able landings that have taken. place 
 at Dover were those of Napoleon III. 
 and his consort, as Emperor and Em- 
 press of the French, in April, 1855, 
 and the same on separate occasions, 
 in 187 1 as exiles. 
 
 On emerging from the station, 
 the two points of interest in Dover, 
 the Castle, and the Admiralty- 
 Pier, which is close at hand, and 
 commands a very pleasant view, at 
 once catch the eye. 
 
 The **Castle is a mile off, across 
 the harbour; it occupies a space 
 of 35 acres. The greater part is 
 now open to the public. Arrange- 
 ments have to be made at the 
 Engineer's office in the castle for a 
 guide and lights to visit the under- 
 ground passages, but no order is 
 requisite ; the armoury is shown 
 on application at the door without 
 any order. There are two gates, the 
 'main ' and the 'old entrance,' both 
 used by the public. Fulbert de 
 Dover's tower is approached on foot 
 by a long inclined plane from the 
 top of Castle Street, or by a zigzag 
 carriage-road. The interior of the 
 castle has been entirely remodelled 
 since 1780. From a small hill-fort of 
 the Britons, the Castle increased by 
 the gradual extension of the de- 
 fences, till the entire hill was sur- 
 rounded by Norman walls and 
 watch-towers. In spite of much 
 alteration, it is still a very perfect 
 type of a Norman castle, with keep, 
 inner and outer courts or baileys, 
 gates and watch-towers. 
 
 The size of the Roman Castellum 
 
52 
 
 ROUTE 2. — DOVER CASTLE. 
 
 is uncertain ; it probably took the 
 place of an earlier British stronghold, 
 to which Pennant thought * the vast 
 foss in the remotest part of the pre- 
 cinct ' might have belonged. This 
 circular intrenchment, however, is 
 now considered a part of the Roman 
 work ; and within it stands the ruin 
 of the famous lighthouse which 
 guided the Imperial galleys into the 
 port below, or lent its nickering 
 glare to the British oyster-boat 
 laden with the spoils of the Rutu- 
 pium. 
 
 The lower part of this Pharos is 
 the only fragment of Roman masonry 
 remaining. The wall, like that of its 
 sister light at Gessoriacum (Bou- 
 logne\ is composed of a casing of 
 flints and tufa, with bonding-courses 
 of large Roman tiles, filled up in the 
 interior with smaller stones and 
 mortar. Owing, perhaps, to some 
 difficulty in procuring tiles, Folke- 
 stone rock, cut tile-shape, is occa- 
 sionally used in the bonding-courses. 
 The Pharos is octagonal without, 
 and squared within, each side being 
 about 14 ft. The windows are said 
 to have been altered by Bp. Gun- 
 dulph in the course of his Norman 
 additions, and the upper portion is 
 of the Tudor era. The arms on the 
 1ST. side are those of Lord Grey of 
 Codnor, constable about 1259. The 
 Pharos has been recently restored in 
 some measure. There was a corre- 
 sponding Pharos on the W. heights, 
 but traces of the foundations alone 
 remain. 
 
 The adjoining Church of St. 
 
 Mary within Dover Castle is a cruci- 
 form edifice (nave, 62 ft. by 34 ft. ; 
 chancel, 27 ft. by 25 ft. ; transepts, 
 each 22 ft. by 20 ft. ; tower, 70 ft. 
 high), the walls chiefly of flint, 
 but with jambs and arches of win- 
 dows, &c, of Roman brick. The 
 church is spoken of as ' Romano- 
 British ' and 1 Saxon ' in origin. It 
 is certainly one of the oldest places 
 of worship in our island. About 
 the close of the 12th cent, the 
 interior was remodelled, and an 
 E. E. character given to the whole, 
 
 by, as Sir G. G. Scott supposes, 
 ' William the Englishman/ one of 
 the architects of Canterbury Cathe- 
 dral (Rte. 3). The ch. continued in 
 use until the beginning of the 18th 
 cent., when it was dismantled and 
 turned into a store-house, its bells 
 sent to Portsmouth, and its com- 
 munion plate lent to the ch. of St. 
 James, at the foot of the Castle-hill. 
 In i860, the building being then 
 used as a coal depot, it was pro- 
 posed to pull it down, and build 
 a modern military chapel in its 
 place. In consequence, however, of 
 urgent remonstrances from various 
 quarters, a better course was taken ; 
 the ruin was placed in the hands 
 of Sir G. G. Scott, and in 1862 it 
 was again opened for divine wor- 
 ship ; about 700 persons can be 
 accommodated. It has_ a good 
 painted window at the E. end, 
 beside a few small memorial ones ; 
 the church is, ordinarily, open to 
 the public. 
 
 The walls of the later fortress 
 were thickly planted with watch- 
 towers, for the most part mere 
 shells, open to the court within. 
 The greater part have been de- 
 stroyed. Of those remaining, and 
 of the larger gate-towers, the most 
 remarkable, beside the keep, are 
 Constable's, Peverell's, the Av- 
 ranches, and the Colton. 
 
 Constable's Tower sometimes 
 called Fiennes" (or Newgate Tower \ 
 is said to have been the work of 
 John de Fiennes, the first constable 
 after the Conquest. No traces of 
 Norman work however remain. The 
 unaltered portions are Edwardian ; 
 the greater part is i modernised/ 
 
 Beyond Constable's Tower, pro- 
 ceeding E., is Peverell's Tower 
 and gate. The upper part has been 
 removed. What remains is perhaps 
 temp. Edw. I. It had a drawbridge 
 and moat, now filled up, and guarded 
 the entrance to the keep-court or 
 inner ballium. 
 
 On the N.E. face of the outer 
 wall is the Avranches or de Abrin- 
 cis Tower, the probable work of 
 
ROUTE 2. — DOVER: KING HAROLDS WELL. 
 
 53 
 
 William de Abrincis(temp. Stephen), 
 and 'one of the most perfect and 
 curious Norman edifices existing.' 
 The foundations are below the 
 bottom of the deep ditch on the 
 N.E. side. The wall, 10 ft. thick, is 
 raised to a level with the upper 
 ballium. There is a gallery in the 
 thickness of the wall, with a plat- 
 form for archers behind apertures, 
 on all five sides of the tower. In the 
 tower is an arched room or recess, 
 open in front, in which weapons 
 were deposited. Above this chamber 
 is a platform into which the gallery 
 in the wall opened. This tower com- 
 manded an important angle of the 
 fortifications, and was therefore con- 
 structed with unusual care. 
 
 The Colton Tower and Gate 
 exist in a partially restored con- 
 dition at the angle W. of the 
 Pharos. The shield of arms in 
 front is that of Lord Burghersh, 
 who commanded this town temp. 
 Edw. III., and who perhaps then 
 restored it. 
 
 The Keep remains. The founda- 
 tion walls, 24 ft. thick, are said to 
 have been built by Henry Fitz- 
 Empress (afterwards Henry II.), 
 about 1 153. Another tradition (for 
 it is nothing more) asserts the archi- 
 tect to have been Bp. Gundulf of 
 Rochester, the builder of Rochester 
 Castle and of the White Tower of 
 London. The Dover keep has three 
 storeys. The first had originally no 
 entrance except from the storey 
 above. In it is a hall, 50 ft. square, 
 divided by three massive arches and 
 pillars. Narrow flights of steps 
 ascend to the loopholes, which are 
 at the top of the walls. The second 
 storey was entered by a flight of 
 steps on the S.E. side, which were 
 altered when the modern entrance 
 was made below. Here is the 
 *Chapel, with Norman arches and 
 mouldings, and two large apart- 
 ments, each 50 ft. by 25 ft. There 
 are galleries in the walls. The 
 walls are covered with inscriptions 
 
 scratched by the French prisoners 
 confined here during Marlborough's 
 campaigns. In the third storey are 
 the state apartments : the stairs 
 leading to them were strongly 
 guarded with gates and a portcullis, 
 and at the sides are concealed 
 galleries for archers. At the top, 
 on the left of the entrance to the 
 apartments, is a well descending 
 through the thickness of the wall. 
 A plummet gives a depth of 293 ft. 
 The well is popularly called King 
 Harold's Well, and is no doubt the 
 same which Harold, on his Norman 
 visit, undertook to deliver to Duke 
 William, together with the castle 
 itself. 
 
 The view from the top of the 
 keep, 468 ft. above the sea-level, is 
 magnificent. The line of cliffs be- 
 tween Folkestone and the two 
 Forelands, and the French coast 
 from Boulogne to Gravelines, are 
 traceable in clear weather. The 
 distance to the tower of Notre Dame, 
 Calais, is 26 m., to Dunkirk 46. 
 Those 'aditus insuloe mirificis moli- 
 bus muniti,' which wellnigh baffled 
 Caesar, of which Cicero writes to 
 Atticus, and which suggested the 
 masses of rock that accompany 
 the figure of Britannia on Roman 
 coins, are nowhere better ^een 
 or more impressive. Here, too, the 
 visitor may recall the first great 
 check of the Armada ; when, after 
 fighting its way up the Channel, it 
 dropped anchor in Calais roads on 
 the afternoon of Saturday, J uly 27, 
 1588. It had been arranged that 
 the junction of Medina Sidonia's 
 fleet with that of the Duke of Parma 
 was to be effected here. The Eng- 
 lish fleet, under Howard, Drake, 
 Frobisher, and Hawkins, had fol- 
 lowed the Armada, and at last 
 dropped anchor within i| m. of the 
 Spaniards. 4 Never, since England 
 was England, had such a sight been 
 seen as now revealed itself in those 
 narrow straits between Dover and 
 Calais. Along that low, sandy 
 shore, and quite within the range 
 
54 
 
 ROUTE 2. — DOVER: OLD ST. JAMES'S CHURCH. 
 
 of the Calais fortifications, 130 
 Spanish ships — the greater number 
 of them the largest and most heavily 
 armed in the world — lay face to face, 
 and scarcely out of cannon-shot, with 
 150 English sloops and frigates, the 
 strongest and swiftest that the island 
 could furnish, and commanded by 
 men whose exploits had rung through 
 the world.' (Motley, United Nether- 
 lands, ii. 484.) On the night of Sun- 
 day, J uly 28, the Armada was thrown 
 into disorder by fire-ships, which the 
 Spaniards dreaded as repetitions of 
 Gianibelli's ' floating volcanoes' at 
 Antwerp ; and the whole fleet drifted 
 off toward the Flemish coast. 
 
 Arthur's Hall, on the N.E. side 
 of the keep-court is now converted 
 into mess-rooms and a range of 
 barracks. 
 
 Near the edge of the castle cliff are 
 the handsome Artillery Barracks 
 (built in 1858), and just below is a 
 brass cannon, cast at Utrecht in 
 1544, and really a gift from the 
 Emperor Charles V. to Henry VIII. 
 (Gen. Lefroy's Catalogue of the Wool- 
 wich Artillery Museum, p. 6), though, 
 from a tradition that it was pre- 
 sented to the Virgin Queen by the 
 Hollanders, it rejoices in the name 
 of 'Queen Elizabeth's Pocket 
 Pistol.' It is 23 ft. 1 in. long, 
 though its calibre is little over that 
 of a 1 2 -pounder, and is covered 
 with devices representing the con- 
 trasts of peace and war. It is 
 further graced by a Dutch verse, to 
 this effect, — 
 
 ' O'er hill and dale I throw my ball, 
 " Breaker," my name, of mound and wall.* 
 
 A popular rhyme, which runs — 
 
 ' Load me well and keep me clean, 
 And I'll carry a ball 10 Calais Green ' — 
 
 is supposed to refer to this gun, 
 which is now much honeycombed 
 and useless. 
 
 From this spot (Dec. 1784") Jef- 
 fries and Blanchard 'set sail' in 
 their balloon, and after a perilous 
 
 crossing alighted safely on the oppo- 
 site side of the straits, in the Foret 
 des Felmores, near Guines. 
 
 The visitor should make a point 
 of getting a view of the castle from 
 the sea, when he will understand 
 how it came to impress the minds of 
 strangers arriving in England so 
 forcibly as to give rise to the belief 
 that it was built by evil spirits. 4 A 
 cacodsemonibus extructa,' says the 
 Bohemian, Leo von Kotzmital, in 
 1446, 1 adeo valida et munita ut in 
 nulla Christianorum provincia par 
 ei reperiri queat.' 
 
 The excavations in the chalk cliff 
 on which the castle stands were 
 made toward the end of the last 
 century. Casemates for lodging 2000 
 men, and magazines for provisions 
 and powder, are formed in the cliff, 
 which is honeycombed in -all direc- 
 tions with long galleries and cham- 
 bers. Air is supplied through brick 
 funnels. This part of the castle 
 (which includes a communication 
 with the beach near East Cliff- 
 terrace) is not shown without a 
 special order. The modern military 
 works N. of the Castle are called 
 Fort Burgoyne, they form an out- 
 post on the Deal side. 
 
 We may now descend into the 
 town. Of the old Churches, only 
 two remain in use. *St. Mary's, in 
 Cannon-street, is one of the most 
 ancient churches in England. 
 Notice the venerable W. tower, the 
 lower part of which is of Saxon 
 date. Samuel Foote, who died here 
 but was buried at Westminster, is 
 commemorated by a tablet. The W. 
 end of the nave has Norman work. 
 Notice at the W. end the hand- 
 some large wall painting of the 
 Adoration of the Magi, executed in 
 memory of the Rev. Canon Puckle's 
 Jubilee in 1889. 
 
 Old St. James's Church, at the 
 
 foot of the Castle-hill, has been 
 restored throughout. The W. door 
 is Norman. The Admiralty Court 
 for the Cinque Ports was formerly 
 held in the S. chancel ; now used as 
 
ROUTE 2. — DOVER: PRIORY OF ST. MARTIN. 
 
 55 
 
 a parish meeting-room. In the ch. 
 is a monument for Sir Nathanael 
 Wraxall, the well-known diarist ; 
 and there also were buried the 
 father and grandfather (Simon and 
 Philip Yorke) of Lord Chancellor 
 Hardwicke, who was born at Dover 
 in 1690. The house occupied by his 
 parents is still pointed out in Snar- 
 gate Street (on the N. side, about 
 half-way down). 
 
 Dover formerly possessed four 
 other churches— St. Martin's, ad- 
 joining the Market Square ; St. 
 John's in Biggin Street ; St. Peter's 
 N. of the Market Place ; and St. 
 Nicholas in Bench Street. Very few 
 traces of these remain. A sepulchral 
 slab, with Runic figures, from St. 
 Peter's is preserved in the Museum 
 (Market Place). St. Martin's was 
 a collegiate church. On its site 
 have been discovered two graves, 
 one with two bodies enclosed, and 
 two mutilated vessels of doubtful 
 identity. It is thought possible 
 that the substructure upon which 
 the Norman extension of the Saxon 
 church was built is a relic of the 
 Roman Baths, whose foundations 
 were opened near this spot in 1885, 
 and which extend across the 
 Market Place. A few remains of 
 the walls of St. Martin's Church 
 are still to be seen, but they are 
 being hidden from view by buildings 
 now in course of erection. In its 
 churchyard was buried Churchill the 
 poet, who died at Boulogne, 1764. 
 His tomb still exists, with the 
 edifying motto from his own ' Can- 
 didate,' ' Life to the last enjoyed, 
 here Churchill lies.' It was here, 
 at the ' grave of one who blazed 
 the comet of a season,' that Byron 
 wrote his well-known lines, record- 
 ing 
 
 ' the old sexton's natural homily, 
 In which there was Obscurity and Fame, 
 The Glory and the Nothing of a Name.' 
 
 1 The grave of Churchill,' says Sir 
 Walter Scott, 1 might have called 
 from Lord Byron a deeper com- 
 memoration ; for, although they 
 
 generally differed in character and 
 genius, there was a resemblance 
 between their history and life. . . . 
 Both these poets held themselves 
 above the opinion of the world, and 
 both were followed by the fame and 
 popularity which they seemed to 
 despise. . . . Both carried their hatred 
 of hypocrisy beyond the verge of 
 prudence, and indulged their vein 
 of satire to the borders of licentious- 
 ness. Both died in the flower of 
 their age in a foreign land.' 
 
 The modern churches are, a new 
 St. James's, with handsome tower 
 and spire, Trinity (carpenter's 
 Gothic), and Christ Church, the 
 last tolerable E. E. It is nearly 
 opposite the ancient Priory of St. 
 Martin, of which the story is as 
 follows. The College of St. Martin 
 for 22 secular canons, which had 
 been at first established in the 
 castle, was removed into the town 
 by Wihtred, King <»t Kent (7oo\ 
 They were exempt from episcopal 
 jurisdiction, and subject only to the 
 Pope and King of England. They 
 were moreover wealthy ; and an 
 extreme jealousy early arose be- 
 tween them and the archbishops, 
 who were anxious to bring them 
 under the control of the great Can- 
 terbury Priory, and who at length 
 succeeded in obtaining a grant 
 from the king of the whole lands 
 and revenues of the canons. Abp. 
 Corboil immediately built (1132) 
 the priory and placed in it certain 
 canons from Merton. The old 
 canons, thus expelled, complained 
 to the king ; but after a series of 
 ecclesiastical squabbles the arch- 
 bishops had their way, and the 
 priory became Benedictine, like that 
 at Canterbury. 
 
 The site, with the greater part of 
 the lands, still continues attached to 
 the see of Canterbury. 
 
 The gatehouse, the refectory, and 
 part of the dormitory remain, and a 
 partial restoration having been ac- 
 complished the buildings have been 
 converted into ' Dover College.' The 
 gatehouse is good Dec. The refectory 
 
56 
 
 ROUTE 2. — DOVER : MUSEUM. 
 
 is nearly perfect, and is part of the 
 original foundation. It has eight win- 
 dows, and six buttresses N., and seven 
 S. Its extreme dimensions are 107 ft. 
 by 34, the walls being 3 ft. 6 in. thick. 
 The original entrance was on the S. 
 side, but is now blocked up without. 
 An E. E. entrance, also blocked up, 
 is visible on the same side. The 
 interior is very striking, and should 
 not be left unseen. The wall is 
 blank to the height of 12 ft. 6 in., 
 above which an arcade is carried 
 quite round the apartment. The two 
 arches next the E. end are pierced 
 for windows to light the high table ; 
 after them every alternate arch is 
 pierced, producing good effects of 
 light and shade. On the wall at the 
 E. end, under the arcade, are faint 
 traces of a mural painting of the 
 Last Supper ; some of the nimbi 
 surrounding the heads may still be 
 made out. Of the roof, the central 
 bay is perhaps i5th-cent. work ; the 
 rest is modern. The work through- 
 out is very plain, but massive. 
 
 The foundations of the large and 
 magnificent ch. were laid open in 
 1844, when the ground was levelled ; 
 some portions of the plan may still 
 be traced. Under an apse on the S. 
 side of the chancel were found 24 
 silver coins of Henry VII. 
 
 There was a considerable library 
 in the priory. Of the priors, one, 
 Richard, succeeded Becket as arch- 
 bishop, and was the ' Canterbury ' 
 in whose lap 'York* sat down at 
 Westminster during the famous fight 
 for precedence, a.d. 1175. 
 
 The Priory Stat, of the London, 
 Chatham, and Dover Rly. is a very 
 short distance W. of the remains 
 (Rte. 3). 
 
 The Maison Dieu was founded 
 by Hubert de Burgh as a resting- 
 place for strangers and pilgrims, who 
 had hitherto been entertained by 
 the canons of St. Martin's. Much 
 land was attached to it. In this 
 mediaeval ' Lord W arden ' the Kings 
 of England used to lodge in their 
 way to and from the continent. 
 
 Adjoining the Maison Dieu is the 
 
 TTew Town Hall, designed by 
 Burges, and opened in 1883. The 
 assembly-room holds 1500 persons. 
 The building cost £15,000. The 
 old hall of the Maison Dieu adjoins 
 this. Notice the historical scenes in 
 the windows ; they are (i) Relief of 
 Dover Castle by John de Pencester, 
 1216 ; (ii) Henry III. confirming the 
 Maison Dieu Charter, 1227 ; (iii) Ed- 
 ward III.'s visit to Dover ; (iv) Em« 
 peror Sigismund's landing opposed, 
 1216; (v) Henry VIII. 's embarkation 
 for the ' Field of the Cloth of Gold' ; 
 (vi) Landing of Charles II. The 
 entrance window contains figures of 
 the founder and benefactor of the 
 institution. There are numerous 
 portraits of eminent persons con- 
 nected with Dover, and two good 
 pictures of ' St. Martin ' and < Adam 
 and Eve.' The arms were presented 
 by the Government from the stores 
 at the Tower. 
 
 The church attached to the Maison 
 Dieu was built by Henry III. after 
 the foundation had been resigned to 
 him by De Burgh, and dedicated in 
 1227, and has disappeared. From the 
 time of Henry VIII. to 1830 the 
 hall was used as a victualling-office. 
 In it are pictures of sundry Dover 
 worthies, and of personages other- 
 wise connected with the town — 
 Elizabeth, Anne, Charles II., Wil- 
 liam III., Wellington, and Pal- 
 merston. 
 
 The Old Court Hall, formerly 
 in the Market Place (date 1607), had 
 some curious grotesques on the pil- 
 lars supporting it. Near its site is 
 the Museum, which is open to the 
 public, and contains a good collection 
 of natural history ; some local an- 
 tiquities — Roman tiles, urns, &c; 
 Saxon brooches and bracelets ; a 
 monumental slab, with Eunic in- 
 scription ; bronze weapons, and 
 seals connected with Dover. There 
 is also a stone, with mason's mark, 
 said to have come from the church 
 of the Templars, on the western 
 heights, in which took place the 
 famous scene of King John's resig- 
 nation of his crown to Pandulph. 
 
ROUTE 2. — DOVER: HARBOUR. 
 
 57 
 
 The most interesting section is the 
 Plomley selection of Kentish anti- 
 quities. In this room are the 
 articles found in the excavation on 
 the Priory Hill, among which are 
 two curious lachrymatories. In 
 another room is to be seen a sword 
 belonging to Oliver Cromwell, with 
 Latin inscription. The Museum is 
 open free every day except Thurs- 
 day, from 10 to 4 in winter and 1 1 
 to 5 in summer. 
 
 The *Heights and Batteries, 
 beyond the town, W., are more ele- 
 vated than the castle. The position 
 was formed during the years pre- 
 ceding the peace of 1814, when more 
 than once the camps of France and 
 England were in sight of each other 
 on the opposite shores ; but vast 
 works are still in progress on both 
 the Deal and Folkestone roads. 
 Gravel walks, usually open to the 
 public, are carried all along the 
 heights, and the view from them 
 across the town to the Castle is very 
 striking. It must be borne in mind 
 that Dover is a garrison town, and 
 that admission to the Castle and 
 Heights is a matter of favour on the 
 part of the authorities ; and is there- 
 fore subject to restriction at their 
 will. 
 
 The barracks here have a com- 
 munication with the town by a 
 Military Shaft, locally known as 
 the Corkscrew Staircase, entering 
 from Snargate Street. ' Three spiral 
 nights, of 140 steps each, wind 
 round a large shaft or tower, open 
 at the top to admit light, and 59 
 more reach the barrack - yard.' 
 Within the enclosure of the barracks 
 are the foundations and remains 
 of the Church of the Templars, 
 a circular building, 32 feet in dia- 
 meter, with a vestibule, in which 
 King John made his degrading sub- 
 mission to the Papal Nuncio, a. d. 
 1213. They were accidentally dis- 
 covered in 1854. The manor on 
 which the heights are situated, it 
 is well known, belonged to the 
 Templars ; and from Hardy's ' Itine- 
 rary of King John,' it appears that 
 
 on the 13th of May, 1213, the king 
 came to Dover from Temple Ewell, 
 where he had been since the 8th. 
 On the 15th John delivered to Pan- 
 dulph (no doubt in this ch. on the 
 western heights) the charter con- 
 taining the terms of peace, and there 
 made his famous homage. 
 
 A tunnel of the London, Chatham, 
 and Dover railway, 615 yards long, 
 passes under these heights to reach 
 the Dover terminus of that company, 
 which is about \ m. distant from 
 the S. E. terminus. There is a con- 
 necting line from the S. E. R. stat. 
 to the L. C. D. stat., by which there 
 is through communication from 
 Folkestone to Deal. 
 
 A deep valley separates these 
 heights from Hay or Shake- 
 speare's Cliff, 
 
 'whose high and bending head 
 Looks fearfully on the confined deep.' 
 
 It is now 350 ft. above the sea-level : 
 but, although falls of chalk are of 
 frequent occurrence, and the height 
 has perhaps diminished, it is only 
 possible to repeat Wordsworth's 
 wonder (Memoirs, vol. ii.) that any 
 one should have imagined the fa- 
 mous description in 1 King Lear * 
 to be, or to have been intended as, 
 an accurate copy from nature. At 
 what time the name of ' Shake- 
 speare's Cliff' began to be applied to 
 this particular headland does not 
 appear : the wild larkspur grows in 
 the crevices, and samphire may yet 
 be gathered there ; but there are no 
 choughs, and the crows look much 
 larger than beetles. 
 
 The Harbour of Dover formerly 
 extended some way up the Charlton 
 valley, and has gradually retreated, 
 owing to debris brought down from 
 the hills, and the effects of a shift- 
 ing bar of shingle, which frequently 
 closed it altogether. Dover is the 
 only one of the ancient Cinque 
 Ports which still exists as a har- 
 bour : but it would long since have 
 shared the fate of its brethren, had 
 it not been for the large and im- 
 portant works which have been 
 
58 
 
 ROUTE 2. — DOVEE : PILOT'S WATCH HOUSE. 
 
 undertaken here at different times. 
 Henry VIII. commenced an enor- 
 mous pier, stretching 20 rods further 
 into the sea than the present pier- 
 heads, which remained unfinished 
 at his death, and soon became quite 
 ruinous. The loss of Calais greatly 
 affected Dover, and the town was re- 
 duced to considerable distress, when 
 Ealeigh reported that an improved 
 harbour there would be of great ser- 
 vice, since 'no promontory, town, 
 or harbour in Europe was so well 
 situated for annoying the enemy, 
 protecting the commerce, or sending 
 and receiving despatches from the 
 Continent/ Fresh works were ac- 
 cordingly commenced by Elizabeth, 
 and continued by James I. ; and by 
 dint of these and later operations 
 the harbour has been kept open. 
 The outer harbour, and the Pent or 
 eastern basin, have been much en- 
 larged of late years. A second basin, 
 called the 1 Granville Dock/ was 
 opened in 1874. 
 
 The *Harbour of Refuge 
 
 (Messrs. Walker and Burges, en- 
 gineers), which was commenced in 
 1847, was in part designed to pre- 
 vent the passage of 1 beach ' [shingle] 
 from the westward, in front of the 
 harbour's mouth, which had been a 
 cause of great trouble and expense, 
 and it has answered this purpose, at 
 least, but too effectually, as the cliffs 
 to the eastward, losing the protec- 
 tion which the shingle afforded, are 
 being undermined by the sea. The 
 wall, of concrete faced with granite, 
 extends about 800 yards into the sea, 
 but it is doubtful, from the increas- 
 ing depth of the water, whether it 
 can be carried out much further. 
 The blocks of concrete are worthy of 
 notice ; they are made at Rye Har- 
 bour by steam machinery specially 
 designed for the purpose. The 
 diving operations also are carried 
 on on a larger scale than has 
 hitherto been attempted ; the solid 
 mass of masonry, upwards of 80 
 ft. in width at the base, being raised 
 from 45 ft. below low water, as far 
 
 as the surface, by means of diving- 
 bells. It has been contemplated to 
 build another wall further to the E . 
 and so form a Harbour of Refuge of 
 about 700 acres in extent. The 
 harbour was enlarged and deepened 
 in 1874. The Admiralty Pier is 
 1550 feet in length. There is a fort 
 at the seaward extremity. There 
 are three landing places on the E. 
 side, and two on the W. Hence there 
 is constant steam communication 
 with Calais and Ostend, excursions 
 to which places form favourite 
 expeditions. The pier is constructed 
 of large blocks of concrete, composed 
 of shingle, sand, and cement. The 
 smallest weigh 6 tons, some exceed 
 9 tons. The work is faced with 
 Cornish granite ; the dressings and 
 interior facings are mainly Portland 
 stone. 
 
 Both the railway companies have 
 lines running to the end of the pier, 
 so that passengers are conveyed to 
 within a few paces of the vessels ; 
 but this only applies to a limited 
 number of trains, namely, those 
 running in direct connection with 
 the steamers. On the W. side of 
 the pier there is a raised promenade, 
 whence a fine sea-view is com- 
 manded. 
 
 Dover is the chief pilot-station of 
 the CINQUE PORTS, having at- 
 tached to it 70 pilots employed in 
 the Channel service. 
 
 The Pilot's "Watch House, a 
 
 very necessary building for the 
 service, was built in 1847. 
 
 The first submarine telegraph 
 ever undertaken was laid down be- 
 tween Dover and Cape Grisnez, in 
 August, 1850. This cable, however, 
 broke in consequence of fretting on 
 a ridge of rocks under the Cape ; 
 and a second was connected with 
 the French coast at Sangatte, about 
 2 m. nearer Calais. Another cable 
 crosses from here to Ostend. 
 
 There can be little doubt that the 
 countries now united by these sub- 
 marine cables were at one time con- 
 nected by an isthmus which was 
 
ROUTE 2. — DOVER — THE CINQUE PORTS. 
 
 59 
 
 gradually broken through by the 
 action of the sea. i The greatest 
 depth of the straits between Dover 
 and Calais is 29 fathoms, which only 
 exceeds by one fathom the greatest 
 depth of the Mississippi at New 
 Orleans/ — (Lyell). Desmaretz, who 
 gained a prize essay on this subject 
 in 1753, attributed the rupture of 
 the ancient isthmus to the prepon- 
 derating violence of the current from 
 the north. 
 
 The bathing at Dover has been 
 said to be dangerous, owing to the 
 sudden shelving of the beach ; for 
 those who think so, there are fixed 
 baths on the parade. 
 
 The prominent buildings on the 
 cliff to the N. E. of Dover are used 
 for a Convict Station which contains 
 120 inmates. 
 
 A pleasant excursion from Dover 
 is to St. Radigund's or Brad- 
 sole Abbey, 3 m. N. W., founded 
 1 191 by Jeffrey and Thomas, Earls 
 of Perche, for Premonstratensian 
 monks. The principal gateway, part 
 of which may belong to the original 
 foundation, remains nearly perfect, 
 though much covered with ivy : it 
 has unfortunately been ' restored ' 
 in red brickwork. The chapel and 
 some domestic buildings, consider- 
 ably altered in the 16th cent., now 
 converted into a farmhouse, also 
 remain. Of the last 'the facings 
 of the wall are curious from the 
 variations of pattern in the flint and 
 Caen stone.' — Rev. A. Hussey. The 
 ground beneath the ruins is pierced 
 by long subterranean passages, which 
 have not been thoroughly explored. 
 The abbey stands on high ground, 
 and commands a good view of the 
 beautiful valley of Poulton. Adjoin- 
 ing is a large pond, in Kent called a 
 4 sole ' — a Saxon word — from which 
 the abbey was named. The abbots 
 of St. Radigund's were at one time 
 summoned to Parliament. Remains 
 of the abbey buildings are to be 
 traced in the fields beyond the farm. 
 The site is well chosen, and the 
 [Kent] 
 
 views in all directions are extensive 
 and full of beauty. 
 
 For other excursions from Dover 
 see Rte. 3. 
 
 A short notice of the Cinque 
 Ports, of which Dover is the only 
 one that remains in use and open, 
 may not be out of place. 
 
 During the later Roman period 
 the Count of the Saxon Shore had 
 under his especial control nine great 
 fortresses, which guarded the prin- 
 cipal landing-places on the coast 
 from Yarmouth to Portsmouth, and 
 four of these castles occupied sites 
 nearly identical with th os- e of the most 
 ancient Cinque Ports, viz. Rutupia? 
 (Sandwich\ Dubrae (Dover), Portus 
 Lemanis (Lymne, Hythe), Anderida 
 (Pevensey, a i limb ' of Hastings), a 
 strong presumption in favour of the 
 Roman origin of the system by which 
 the southern coast was defended in 
 the middle ages, although we meet 
 with no mention of its existence in 
 the Saxon period, and the govern- 
 ment of each town by mayors or 
 bailiffs and jurats (which existed 
 in all cases until the passing of the 
 Municipal Corporations Reform Act 
 in 1835, and in some cases still, e.g. 
 Pevensey and Seaford) is certainly of 
 Norman form, and tin- first 'War- 
 den* known to history is John do 
 Fiennes, soon after the Conquest. 
 The district was, in effect, a county 
 palatine, extending from the i Red 
 Cliff' at Seaford to the N. shore of 
 the Thames, and, for special services 
 rendered, its supremacy was ex- 
 tended by Edward I. in 1277 to Yar 
 mouth, but that port bore the sub- 
 jection uneasily, and finally shook it 
 off in 1663. The Cinque Ports proper 
 consisted of Sandwich, Dover, Hythe, 
 Romney, and Hastings ; to these, 
 Winchelsea and Rye were added at 
 an early date, and are known as the 
 ' ancient towns/ and so many other 
 places were desirous of sharing the 
 privileges (and burdens) of the Ports 
 that almost every coast town is a 
 1 limb ' or member, from Pevensey 
 to Faversham, as is also Brightling- 
 
 G 
 
60 
 
 ROUTE 2. — THE 
 
 CINQUE POETS. 
 
 sea, in Essex, and even places 
 remote from the sea, as Tenterden, 
 Lydd, Sarre, and Fordwich. The 
 complete list is as follows (as far as 
 Kent is concerned) : — Sandwich 
 included Deal, Stonar, Ramsgate, 
 Sarre, Reculver, Fordwich, Walmer ; 
 Romney included Lydd, Dungeness, 
 Promwell, Eastweston ; Dover in- 
 cluded Faversham, Margate, Folke- 
 stone, St. Peter's: Hythe included 
 "West Hythe. Bekesbourne, on the 
 lesser Stour, was, curiously enough, 
 affiliated to Hastings. From an 
 ordinance of Henry III. (1229) we 
 learn that the ports had to provide 
 57 ships (each carrying 21 men and 
 a boy) to serve the king at their own 
 cost for 15 days, and as long after as 
 they might be wanted, if paid. Dover 
 was to furnish 21 ships ;. Winchelsea 
 10 ; Hastings 6,; and Sandwich, 
 Hythe, Romney, and Rye, 5 each ; a 
 rough illustration of the relative im- 
 portance of each town. Subsequent 
 ordinances differ little from this, 
 except that Hastings and Winchelsea 
 lost their eminence in consequence 
 of the ravages of the French (temp. 
 Rich. II.). This Cinque Port fleet 
 was the germ of the Royal Navy, and 
 it was carefully distinguished not 
 only by its ensigns, but by the dress 
 of its mariners. 'Every person that 
 goeth into the navy of' the Ports/ 
 says the Register of the Ports, a. d. 
 15 14, ' shall have a coat of white 
 cotton, with a red cross (the royal 
 badge), and the arms of the Ports 
 underneath, that is to say, the half 
 lion and the half ship ' ; a bearing 
 that is to be met with still in most S. 
 coast-towns, either on some public 
 edifice or as the sign of a tavern. 
 
 To compensate for the burden of 
 providing this fleet the privileges of 
 the Cinque Ports were very great. 
 The enterprise of their mariners 
 secured to them the almost exclusive 
 commerce with France, Spain, and 
 Italy ; their towns were entirely self- 
 governed, the King's writ being only 
 of force through the concurrence of 
 the lord warden, and all the freemen 
 being styled 'barons/ who traded 
 
 toll-free in every corporation in the 
 kingdom — a very important matter 
 in mediaeval times — and who success- 
 fully asserted this right, even against 
 the City of London, as late as the 
 reign of Henry VIII. The oldest 
 charter which has come down to us 
 is one granted by Edward I. Beside 
 this, for offences wherever com- 
 mitted, they could only be tried by 
 their peers, before the lord warden, 
 or before the king in person. They 
 were exempt from all military 
 duties in the field, and could not be 
 removed beyond their own jurisdic- 
 tion but for the assistance of each 
 other. The main court, called the 
 ' Court of Brotherhood/ for up- 
 holding their privileges and regu- 
 lating the affairs of each port, was 
 held twice a year — first at Shepway 
 Cross, near Hythe, and then at Rom- 
 ney, as the central port. Seven persons 
 attended from each head port. The 
 Ports had parliamentary representa- 
 tives from a very early period, and at 
 the coronation of Richard II. (1377) 
 they claimed, as their right from time 
 immemorial, that these ' barons ' and 
 * other noble liegemen of the Ports 
 should carry canopies of cloth of 
 gold or silk over the king and queen. 
 To allow of 'reliefs/ 16 barons were 
 named to each canopy, which was 
 borne up by 12 silver standards, with 
 bells of silver gilt attached, the 
 whole being provided at the royal 
 charge. The canopy-bearers (and 
 any of the other ' barons ') claimed 
 to sit at the king's right hand at the 
 banquet (a claim resisted occasion- 
 ally, a. i). 1 161 — see Pepys), and they 
 received the canopy, &c, for their 
 fee. This was assigned to two of 
 the towns in regular rotation, as is 
 shown by the records of the Court of 
 Claims, and it was, in early days, 
 usually presented to the shrine of 
 St. Thomas of Canterbury. In later 
 times it has been literally divided 
 among the bearers, or sold towards 
 defraying their charges (Suss. Arch. 
 Coll., xv.), but some few of the 
 bells are yet preserved in the town- 
 halls of the Ports. 
 
ROUTE 2A. — PADDOCK 
 
 WOOD TO MAIDSTONE. 61 
 
 Several of the ancient Custumals 
 are still in existence, as at Sand- 
 wich (extracts may be found in Boys's 
 History), and together with the 
 Registers of each Port, which are 
 an official record of the proceedings 
 of the annual courts of 'Brodhyll' 
 (brotherhood) and ' Guestling,' they 
 afford much curious information ; 
 explaining existing customs, &c. 
 (e. g. notice of the intended election 
 of a mayor is ordered to be given by 
 sound of trumpet at midnight be- 
 fore, and this is still practised at 
 New Romney) (Rte. 14). If a mayor 
 elect refused the oath — 'to be true 
 to the king, to maintain the liberties 
 of the Ports, and to do justice to 
 the poor* — at Dover and Rye his 
 house was pulled down, — at Rom- 
 ney, Winchelsea, and Hastings, he 
 was turned out with his family, 
 and the doors were sealed up. A 
 thief taken ' back berende ' in Dover 
 or Folkestone was thrown from the 
 top of a precipice ; at Sandwich he 
 was smothered in the marshes, or 
 drowned in the Delf. In all the 
 towns a tub of water was to be 
 placed at every house-door as a pre- 
 caution against fire. 
 
 In modern times, the functions of 
 the lord warden, and the special privi- 
 leges of the Cinque Ports, have been 
 greatly abridged, especially by the 
 * Municipal Corporations Act, 1835/ 
 The lord warden or his deputy still 
 presides, however, at the courts of 
 ' Brotherhood ' and 'Guestling,' now 
 seldom held except previous to a 
 coronation ; and as. admiral of the 
 coast his jurisdiction continues in 
 force, except where modified by 
 statute. The office of lord warden 
 has been held by some of the most 
 eminent men in every age of English 
 history, but in modern times it has 
 been usually accepted by the prime 
 minister at the time of a vacancy. 
 Thus it came into the hands of Wil- 
 liam Pitt, the Earl of Liverpool, the 
 Duke of Wellington, and Lord Pal- 
 merston ; it is now held by Lord Duf- 
 ferin. In this capacity he is the su- 
 preme judge of the Court of Lode- 
 
 Manage, in which pilots are licensed, 
 and complaints heard of their inca- 
 pacity or ill-conduct. The warden 
 is also constable of Dover Castle — 
 an office which, although now always 
 united with the wardenship, was 
 not so formerly. 
 
 Of the present state of each of 
 these famous. Ports it will be suffi- 
 cient to say that Hastings, Romney, 
 and Hythe are no longer harbours ; 
 Sandwich possesses a few small 
 vessels, so does Rye ; Dover alone is 
 of any maritime importance. The 
 ' limbs,' have been somewhat more 
 fortunate than their principals. 
 Faversham, Margate, Ramsgate, Deal, 
 and Folkestone are still of some im- 
 portance. Winchelsea and Peven- 
 sey, however, read even a more 
 striking lesson of change than the 
 main harbours on which they de- 
 pended. 
 
 ROUTE 2a. 
 
 PADDOCK WOOD, (page 34) TO 
 MAIDSTONE BY WATERINGBURY. 
 Rail, 10 m. 
 
 This line follows for the greater 
 part of its course the valley of the 
 Medway, here very rich and beauti- 
 ful. The old turnpike-road from 
 Maidstone to Tunbridge, which runs 
 through the same district (here 
 known as ' the Garden of Eden '), 
 used to be called 1 the finest 10 miles 
 in England,' and, so far as fer- 
 tility and richness of soil are con- 
 cerned, this corner of Kent is per- 
 haps entitled to retain its pre-emi- 
 nence. i It is a district of meadows, 
 cornfields, hop-gardens, and orchards 
 of apples, pears, cherries, and filberts'; 
 with very little of any land which 
 cannot be called good with propriety. 
 There are plantations of chestnut 
 and ash ; and as these are cut, when 
 long enough, to make poles for hops, 
 
 G 2 
 
62 
 
 EOUTE 2A. — MEEEWOKTH — WATERINGBUEY. 
 
 they are at all times objects of great 
 beauty. From Maidstone to Mere- 
 worth are the finest seven miles I 
 have seen in this county. TheMedway 
 is on your 1., with its meadows about 
 a mile wide. I should think there 
 were hop-gardens one-half of the way 
 on both sides of the road. Looking 
 across the Medway you see hop-gar- 
 dens and orchards 2 m. deep on the 
 side of a gently rising ground/ — 
 (Cobbett.) From this district the ear- 
 liest hops usually reach the London 
 markets. 
 
 The branch line, after passing for 
 3 m. through a hop-covered plain 
 reaches 
 
 37 1 m. Yalding (Stat.). 
 
 Yalding (in Domesday Ealdinges) 
 — ' a praty townlet,' says Leland — 
 stands at the confluence of the Beult 
 with the Medway. The Church is 
 E. E. ; the massive W. tower of 
 perhaps earlier date : several ancient 
 books are kept in the parish chest. 
 In the pavement are slabs of a 
 marble crowded with minute shells, 
 resembling that of Bethersden, and 
 found in the parish. 
 
 Bockingfold, in the S. part of the 
 parish, is called by Twine (de Reb. 
 Albion.) ' the forest of Buchinswald' 
 (Beech-wood), and mentioned as one 
 of the great Kentish woods, in which 
 wild animals still lingered temp. 
 Eliz. This is probably the largest 
 hop-growing parish in England. In 
 1890 nearly 1500 acres were in culti- 
 vation. 
 
 1 m. E. is Hunton, where is said 
 to be the largest ' hop-garden ' in 
 Kent (280 acres). Burston, in this 
 parish, formerly the seat of the 
 Fanes, whose monuments are in the 
 church, but now a farmhouse^ com- 
 mands a fine view over the Weald, 
 the range of gault and sandstone 
 hills which form the outliers of the 
 chalk beginning to rise here. 
 
 39 \ m. Wateringbury (Stat.) 
 
 The village was almost entirely 
 rebuilt by the late Alderman Lucas. 
 Wateringbury Place, formerly the re- 
 
 sidence of the Styles, is the pro- 
 perty of Col. Davies. 
 
 The Church, seen on the high 
 ground 1., is Perp. with an E. E. 
 tower. In the churchyard is the 
 monument of Sir Oliver Style, whose 
 marvellous escape from an earth- 
 quake at Smyrna is commemorated 
 in the inscription. He was at dinner 
 with a large party, including a lady 
 to whom he was engaged, when the 
 earth suddenly yawned, and all 
 perished except Sir Oliver. 
 
 At Wateringbury the visitor may in- 
 quire for ' the dumb borsholder of 
 Chart/ which is still preserved, and 
 was exhibited at the Rochester meet- 
 ing of the Kent Arch. Soc. in 1859 ; 
 it is figured and described in Arch. 
 Cant. vol. ii. It was the staff of 
 office of the Borsholder of the small 
 manor of Chart in this parish. The 
 borsholder was the 'chairman' of 
 the members of the manorial court 
 of justice. 'The dumb borsholder 
 was always first called at the court- 
 leet holden for the hundred of Twy- 
 ford, in which Wateringbury lies ; 
 when its keeper held it up with 
 a neckcloth or handkerchief put 
 through the iron ring fixed at the 
 top and answered for it. It was 
 made of wood, about 3 ft. o| in. long, 
 with an iron ring at the top, and four 
 more by the sides, near the bottom, 
 where was a square iron spike, to fix 
 it in the ground, or on occasion to 
 break open doors, which was done 
 without a warrant of any justice on 
 suspicion of goods unlawfully con- 
 cealed in any of the 15 houses.' — 
 {Hasted.) The ' borsholder ' has now 
 become black with age, and three of 
 the side rings have disappeared, 
 although the marks of them still 
 remain. Chart is the name of a small 
 manor in the parish in which a 
 market granted by Edward II. is 
 traditionally said to have been held. 
 
 The dumb borsholder and the 
 courtleet for this hundred were dis- 
 continued toward the middle of the 
 last century ; but the former was 
 preserved by the heirs of Thomas 
 Clampard, a blacksmith, who died 
 
ROUTE 2 A. — WATERINGBURY MERE WORTH CASTLE. 63 
 
 in 1748, its last deputy. The epi- 
 taph on his tomb in the churchyard 
 can still be faintly traced — 
 
 1 My sledge and anvil I've declined, 
 My bellows too have lost their wind ; 
 My fire's extinct ; my forge decayed : 
 And in the dust my vice is lay'd ; 
 My coals are spent, my iron's gone : 
 My naiJs are drove, my work is done.' 
 
 Its origin is altogether unknown, 
 though it clearly belonged to the 
 class of symbols occurring so fre- 
 quently in the proceedings of Saxon 
 and Scandinavian law-courts, and is 
 no doubt the type of the original 
 staves borne by constables in early 
 times. 
 
 The Perp. Church of Nettlested, 
 
 \ m. S. of Wateringbury Station, 
 retains most of its original glazing, 
 that of the chancel being more 
 simple than that in the nave. All 
 the windows have been shifted, how- 
 ever, within recent memory. The 
 stained glass here is very good, and 
 deserves careful notice. That now 
 in the nave (figures under canopies) 
 is of the early part of the reign of 
 Henry VI. That in the chancel 
 (heraldry, emblems, &c.) appears 
 from an inscription to have been 
 put up in 1465. In the E. window 
 are portraits of the donors, and a 
 remarkable group supposed to re- 
 present Becket's reception by the 
 monks of Canterbury on his return 
 from exile, assigned to the date 1430- 
 1440 (Arch. Cant. vol. vi.) The S. 
 windows of the nave were destroyed 
 by a storm. Not far from the ch. 
 are some remains of Netilested Place, 
 the ancient residence of the De 
 Pympe family. 
 
 In the parish of East Peckham, 
 
 W. of Wateringbury, is Roy don Hall 
 (B. Cook, Esq.) ; the residence 
 throughout the troubled times of 
 the Civil War, and afterwards, of 
 Sir Roger Twysden, a name well known 
 and venerated by scholars and 
 archaeologists. He is buried in the 
 church 1 . The family of Twysden 
 
 1 Sir Roger Twysden's journal, detailing 
 the persecutions which he suffered from the 
 
 obtained this estate by marriage 
 with the co-heiress of Thomas Koy- 
 don, who died temp. Ph. and Mary. 
 
 In West Peckham, the adjoin- 
 ing parish, a preceptory of Knights 
 Hospitallers was established on land 
 granted them by Sir John Colepeper 
 in 1408. Here are the ' Hurst ' 
 woods, famous for their wild swine 
 as late as Elizabeth's reign. There is 
 a mutilated brass in the chancel to 
 Sir W. Colepeper, 141 7. 
 
 1 1 m.W. of Wateringbury is Mere- 
 worth Castle (Baroness Le Despen- 
 ser and Viscountess Falmouth^ in 
 the parish of that name, much fre- 
 quented by excursionists for the sake 
 of the surrounding scenery, which is 
 very beautiful. The house was built 
 1748, by Colin Campbell, for the 8th 
 Earl of Westmoreland, after a design 
 of Palladio's (the Villa della Capra), 
 made for ' a noble Vicentine gentle- 
 man, in a situation pleasant and de- 
 lightful, and nearly like this,' with 
 the trifling exceptions of climate and 
 association. The church was built 
 by John Earl of Westmoreland, and 
 the ancient stained glass was col- 
 lected by him. The spire is very 
 conspicuous. Within are some old 
 monuments of Nevills and Fanes 
 removed from the former ch. ; among 
 them, that of the first Earl of West- 
 moreland. Through the noble woods 
 at the back of the house, 'broke,' 
 says Walpole, 'like an Albano land- 
 scape with an octagon temple and a 
 triumphal arch,' a great avenue is 
 cut, 3 m. in length. Mereworth be- 
 came the property of the Fanes, 
 temp. Eliz., through a marriage with 
 the heiress of Nevill, Lord Aber- 
 gavenny. 
 
 Adjoining Mereworth is Yotes Court 
 (Viscount Torrington), and, in the 
 neighbouring par. of West Peckham, 
 Oxenhoath (Sir F. Geary, Bart.). 
 
 The line now passes through an 
 
 Parliament between 1641 and 1657, has been 
 printed in the Arch. Cant. A biographical 
 sketch of Sir Roger, by the late J. M. Kemble, 
 js prefixed to his ' Treatise on the Govern- 
 ment of England ' (Camden Soc, 1848). 
 
64 
 
 ROUTE 3. — LONDON TO CANTERBURY. 
 
 undulating country, nowhere rising 
 into lofty hills, but rich with or- 
 chards and hop-gardens. The full, 
 quietly flowing river, rt., with its 
 wooded hanks, gives much beauty 
 to the landscape, which at the village 
 of Teston, passed 1. before reach- 
 ing the Farleigh Station, is very 
 picturesque. The Medway is here 
 crossed by a bridge of seven arches. 
 Stretching up behind' the village is 
 the park of Barham Court (R. Leigh, 
 Esq.), from which the views over 
 the Medway valley are very striking. 
 The manor here— says tradition — 
 belonged to Reginald Fitzurse, one 
 of the murderers of Becket, and on 
 his flight into Ireland it was taken 
 possession of by his kinsman, Robert 
 de Berham, in whose family it re- 
 mained till the reign of James I. 
 After passing through the hands of 
 the Botilers and Bouveries, it came 
 to Sir Charles Middleton, created 
 Lord Barham, whose grandson, the 
 late Earl of Gainsborough, sold the 
 estate. The present house is modern. 
 
 Barham Court was a favourite 
 resort of William Wilberforce, and 
 Hannah More : with whom Lady 
 Middleton was a distinguished co- 
 worker in the cause of philanthropy. 
 
 The Church of West Farleigh, 
 seen on the hill, rt., is. E. E. The 
 view, rt., from the station of 
 
 42 1 m. East Farleigh, should be 
 noticed. The ch. (for the most part 
 late Dec, with good Perp. E. win- 
 dow) is seen among trees on its hill, 
 rt. Below is a very picturesque 
 ancient bridge, with ribbed arches, 
 here crossing the Medway. In all 
 directions are seen hop gardens, 
 with their attendant ash ' shaws/ 
 for the supply of poles. N. W. is 
 Banning, where is the W. Kent 
 Lunatic Asylum, that for E. Kent being 
 at Chartham (Route 7). 
 
 43 £ m. We reach Tovil Station. 
 Here a short branch (goods) line to 
 the Paper Mills is carried by an iron 
 bridge over the Medway. 
 
 44! m. Maidstone (Stat.) (Rte. 6). 
 
 ROUTE 3. 
 
 LONDON TO CANTERBURY AND 
 DOVER BY BECKENHAM, BROM- 
 LEY, ST. MARY CRAY, ROCHES- 
 TER [COBHAM], CHATHAM, AND 
 FAVERSHAM. 
 
 (London, Chatham* and Dover Eailway.) 
 To Dover 78 m. 
 
 This line has a City terminus at 
 the Holborn Viaduct, and a West- 
 end one at Victoria Station, Pimlico, 
 the trains uniting at the Herne-hill 
 junction. (See Handbook for Surrey.) 
 The first station in Kent is at 
 Kent House (8£ m.), a rapidly in- 
 creasing suburb of Beckenham, which 
 is next reached (8| m.). 
 
 BECKEMAM (Pop. 20,705% 
 no longer a picturesque village, has 
 now become a populous suburb of 
 London. The ancient Church, was 
 replaced in 1886 by the present 
 handsome structure, designed by 
 Bartleet, of Kentish rag-stone in 
 Decorated style. There is a fine 
 altar-tomb and memorial brass to Sir 
 H. Style, 1544. The living was long 
 held by Dr. Marsh, the father of the 
 lady so well known for her labours 
 among the railway navvies. The lich- 
 gate remains, at the end of a line 
 of clipped yews, opening to the S. 
 porch. In the churchyard is the 
 tomb of Edward King (d. 1807), 
 author of the Munimenta Antiqua, 
 who resided here for many years. 
 An earlier celebrity of Beckenham 
 was Margaret Finch, queen of the 
 gipsies, buried here in 1740. She 
 lived to the age of 109, and during 
 the latter part of her life settled at 
 Norwood, then a favourite resting- 
 place with the ' tribes of the wan- 
 dering foot/ 'From a habit of 
 sitting on the ground with her chin 
 resting on her knees, the sinews at 
 length became so contracted, that 
 she could not rise from that posture. 
 After her death they were obliged to 
 
ROUTE 3. BECKENHAM — BROMLEY. 
 
 65 
 
 inclose her body in a deep square 
 box. Her funeral was attended by 
 two mourning-coaches, a sermon was 
 preached upon the occasion, and a 
 great concourse of people attended 
 the ceremony.' — (Lysons). Another 
 queen of the Norwood gipsies was 
 buried at Dulwich in 1768. How 
 far the royal title was in either case 
 more than one of courtesy seems very 
 doubtful, and can only be decided by 
 a skilful Romany ' Lavengro/ 
 
 A curious ceremony formerly took 
 place at Beckenham annually on Jan. 
 28, namely, the opening of the vault 
 of Mary Wragg, who left a legacy, the 
 proceeds of which are spent in gifts 
 of money, coals, and bread. It was 
 a condition of the bequest, not only 
 that the vault should be opened 
 every year, but that the donor's 
 mahogany coffin should be well 
 polished. This custom ceased when 
 the local charities were re-arranged 
 by the Charity Commission. 
 
 Within the parish are Beckenham 
 Park (Albemarle Cator, Esq.), Kelsey 
 Manor (C. A. Hoare, Esq.), Langley 
 Park (F. E. Goodhart, Esq.), and 
 Eden Park. 
 
 Beckenham may be also reached 
 from Charing Cross or Cannon Street, 
 via New Cross and Lewisham. 
 
 [A very pleasant walk may be 
 taken from Beckenham to Bromley, 
 and thence by Sundridge to Chisle- 
 hurst. A field-path, keeping the 
 bank of the Ravensbourne, leads to 
 Bromley, whence the tourist may 
 proceed to Chislehurst by the main 
 road, through Bickley, or find his 
 way by the footpath on the 1. to 
 Sundridge, where, in the sand-pits 
 in and about the park, characteristic 
 fossils are abundant. For this place 
 and Chislehurst, seejpos^.] 
 
 10 1 m. Shortlands (Stat.), where 
 is the residence of the late W. A. 
 Wilkinson, Esq., M.P., who was 
 the possessor of an embalmed head, 
 said to be that of Oliver Cromwell. 
 After the Restoration, the head of 
 Cromwell, together with those of 
 
 Ireton and Bradshaw, was fixed on 
 the roof of Westminster Hall, whence 
 it is said to have been taken by a 
 soldier. Flaxman, who examined it 
 with care, was convinced that it was 
 really the head of the great Protector. 
 It is now at Sevenoaks, in the pos- 
 session of Mr. H. Wilkinson. Mr. 
 Wilkinson's house was the birthplace 
 of George Grote, the historian of 
 Greece. 
 
 From Shortlands a line of railway 
 is in progress of completion to Nun- 
 head and the City (L.C.D.R.) by 
 which travellers will avoid the long 
 Penge tunnel. 
 
 10 J m. BROMLEY (Stat.) There 
 is also communication from Charing 
 Cross to Bromley, via Grove Park, 
 S.E R. 
 
 The town (Pop. 21,685") lies on the 
 old high road from London to Seven- 
 oaks. Bromley still vindicates its 
 name ; since the golden flowers of 
 the broom brighten some few spots 
 here in the early spring, although 
 the larger portion has disappeared. 
 The town stands very pleasantly 
 on high ground, from which good 
 views are commanded to the W. 
 and S.W. It was granted to the 
 Church of Rochester at an early 
 period, and the original grant was 
 confirmed by Edgar in 967, together 
 with considerable rights in the 
 < Andredeswald ' — the great forest 
 of the Weald. Bp. Gundulf built 
 a palace here soon after the Con- 
 quest, which was much improved by 
 his successors. The present build- 
 ing, however, dates only from 1776, 
 when it was completed by Bp. 
 Thomas, who pulled down the old 
 palace * among the elms/ visited 
 by Walpole in 1752 i for the sake 
 of the chimney in which had stood 
 a flower-pot, in which was put the 
 counterfeit plot against Bp. Spratt/ 
 The flower-pot itself was pre- 
 served at Matson, in Gloucestershire, 
 the seat of George Selwyn. (For 
 details of this famous plot, the 
 design of which was to brand the 
 bishop as a Jacobite, see Macaulay, 
 
66 
 
 ROUTE 3. — BROMLEY : COLLEGE. 
 
 vol. iii.) Although the palace had 
 been improved by Bp. Atterbury, 
 the successor of Spratt, whom Pope 
 frequently visited here, it is called 
 by Walpole 1 a paltry parsonage.' 
 Its successor, a plain brick mansion, 
 stands pleasantly on the brow of the 
 hill ; but although still called the 
 Palace, it is no longer the property of 
 the bishops, nor even in the diocese 
 of Rochester. It is at present the 
 residence of Coles Child, Esq., whose 
 ancestors purchased it from the com- 
 missioners when the diocese was en- 
 larged, and the episcopal residence 
 fixed at Danbury in Essex. Bromley 
 is now in the diocese of Canterbury. 
 In the grounds is St. Blaise's Well, 
 near which a small oratory formerly 
 stood, of which no traces remain ; 
 but foundations of other buildings 
 are plentifully met with. There is 
 a rather powerful chalybeate spring 
 at the head of the largest pond, but 
 some drainage works executed in 
 1 87% much interfered with its flow. 
 
 The Church, mainly Perp. and 
 containing a Norm, font, has been 
 restored, enlarged, and altered. Of 
 the ancient building there remain 
 the tower, the basin of the font, and 
 a massive oak door, and an arched 
 recess, now serving as a credence. 
 The E. window has been filled with 
 stained glass by Willement. Bp. 
 Pearce, the editor of Longinus (d. 
 1774), and Bp. Yonge (d. 1605), are 
 both buried here. In the nave is 
 the gravestone of Dr. Johnson's wife 
 1 Tetty,' so frequently mentioned 
 in his devotions. She was buried 
 here by the direction of Dr. Hawks- 
 worth, the friend of Johnson, who 
 resided at Bromley, and to whom 
 the disposition of her remains had 
 been intrusted. The Latin epitaph, 
 in which she is described as ' for- 
 mosa, culta, ingeniosa, pia/ is by 
 Johnson himself, and was written 
 a short time before his own death. 
 In the N. aisle is the monument of 
 Dr. Hawksworth, principal author 
 of ' The Adventurer, ' a passage from 
 the 14th No. of which forms the 
 inscription. 
 
 From a field a few steps beyond 
 the church N. is a good view look- 
 ing across Beckenham to the Crystal 
 Palace and the heights of Penge. 
 
 Bromley College, a large red- 
 brick building at the N. end of the 
 town, was founded by Bp.Warner (d. 
 1666) for ' 20 poor widows of loyal 
 and orthodox clergymen/ Its re- 
 sources have been considerably in- 
 creased by later contributions (one 
 of 500?. by the mother of Gen. Wolfe, 
 in 1765 may be named), and it now 
 affords 40 widows an allowance of 
 31I. a year each, with a separate resi- 
 dence ; and there is an affiliated 
 foundation called Sheppard College, 
 which provides a home for maiden 
 ladies, daughters of clergymen, who 
 have resided with their mothers in 
 the old college. The chapel, re- 
 built in 1863, is Early Dec. (it was in 
 the spurious Italian style of the time 
 of Charles II.), and contains some 
 good painted windows by O'Connor. 
 The college was the first of its kind 
 established in England, but was 
 speedily imitated at Winchester by 
 Bp. Morley, at Salisbury by Bp. 
 Ward, and at Froxfield in Wilts by 
 the Duchess of Somerset. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Bromley 
 are Plaistow Lodge (Hon. A. Kin- 
 naird), and Sundridge Park (Lady 
 Scott). This last place may be 
 visited in a walk from Bromley to 
 Chislehurst — an excursion much to 
 be recommended. (Chislehurst may 
 be reached by S. E. R. Charing Cross 
 or Cannon Street, Rte. 8 ; or it may 
 be reached either from Bickley (2 m.) 
 or from St Mary Cray (3 m.) stations.) 
 The Kentish lane, N. of Bickley 
 Park, hung with wild flowers and 
 overshadowed by oak-branches, 
 through which the tourist will 
 make his way, is a very beautiful 
 one. 
 
 i One of the most interesting 
 localities I am acquainted with is 
 Sundridge Park, where a hard con- 
 glomerate, entirely made up of 
 oyster-shells (?), and the shingle 
 
ROUTE 3.- -HAYES 
 
 I — FARNBOROUGH. 
 
 67 
 
 that formed their native bed, is quar- 
 ried/ (The quarries are not, how- 
 ever, in the park. ) ' This stone 
 is much employed for ornamental 
 rock-work, and several walls in 
 and near Bromley are constructed 
 of it : these display the fossils, 
 some with the valves closed, others 
 open, others detached, and the 
 whole grouped as if artificially em- 
 bedded to expose the characters 
 of the shells. These oyster-beds 
 belong to the tertiary strata of the 
 London basin ; they extend to Plum- 
 stead and other places in the vici- 
 nity ; and in some localities the 
 oysters are associated with other 
 bivalves, called Pectunculi.' — (Man- 
 tell.) The British strata yield be- 
 tween 40 and 50 species of fossil 
 oysters. Those found at Sundridge 
 very closely resemble the Thames 
 4 natives,' their modern descendants. 
 
 [At 3 m. from Bromley, and 1 m. 
 S.W. of the line, is the village of 
 Hayes, to be remembered by all 
 who reverence the memory of the 
 great Lord Chatham. Hayes Place, 
 where Lord Chatham died, and where 
 his not less illustrious son William 
 Pitt was born in 1759, stands close to 
 the ch., and is a white-brick building 
 of no great beauty or pretence. It 
 was purchased in 1757 from the Har- 
 risons by Lord Chatham, who built 
 the present house. It owes its 
 brick casing, however, to the Hon. 
 Thomas Walpole, to whom the place 
 was sold in 1766 ; but in the following 
 year Lord Chatham became greatly 
 desirous of returning to Hayes, 
 where 1 in former years he had made 
 improvements which his memory 
 fondly recalled ; plantations, for ex- 
 ample, pursued with so much ardour 
 and eagerness that they were not 
 even interrupted at nightfall, but 
 were continued by torchlight and 
 with relays of labourers.' — Lord 
 Mahon, Hist. Eng. v. 283. (The 
 belts thus planted are still pointed 
 out at Hayes.) The estate was 
 accordingly reconveyed to him ; and 
 it continued his favourite residence 
 
 for the remainder of his life. The 
 grounds are not extensive, though 
 pleasant ; and a stream which joins 
 the Raven sbourne near Bromley 
 passes through them. 
 
 Hayes Church is a small E. E. 
 building of no great interest. It 
 was enlarged under the direction of 
 Sir G. G. Scott in 1862, when Roman 
 tiles were found worked up in the 
 old walls. In the chancel are hung 
 the banners used at the public 
 funeral of Lord Chatham. Brasses : 
 John Heygge, rector, 1523 ; John 
 Andrew, priest, c. 1470 ; John 
 Osteler, c. 1460 — all of small size. 
 
 Hayes Common possesses some 
 fine old oaks, and affords extensive 
 views. 
 
 At Barton Manor House (Capt. Tor- 
 rens), some curious old frescoes 
 illustrating Saxon history were dis- 
 covered in 1830. 
 
 Hayes can be reached from Char- 
 ing Cross, via New Beckenhani 
 junction, through Elmers End, Eden 
 Park, and West Wickham. 
 
 At Pickhurst, near Hayes (C. F. 
 Devas, Esq.), died in 1859 Henry 
 Hallam, historian of The Middle 
 Ages. Pickhurst belongs to Sir 
 J. F. Lennard, who married Mr. 
 Hallam's daughter. 
 
 2 m. beyond Hayes is West Wick- 
 ham, where is an interesting ch. 
 containing some fine old glass ; and 
 Wickham Court (Sir J. F. Lennard), a 
 turreted manor-house, dating from 
 the reign of Henry VII., with addi- 
 tions, 1867. It contains a valuable 
 whole-length portrait of Sir Walter 
 Raleigh and his son, by Zucchero ; 
 portraits of Dr. Farnaby, and Henry 
 Hallam the historian. For these 
 places, which may also be conveni- 
 ently reached from Croydon, see 
 Handbook for Surrey, etc. 
 
 The village of Far-rib or ough. 
 \\ m. from Bromley, need not delay 
 the tourist. The ch. was rebuilt 
 after 1639. The Sunday after St. 
 Peter's Festival is locally known as 
 ■ Reed-day.' On this day there was 
 
68 
 
 EOUTE 3. — KESTON — CAESAk's CAMP. 
 
 a custom of strewing reeds in the 
 ch. porch, in memory of a parish- 
 ioner who was saved from drowning 
 by reeds ; the custom is not yet 
 extinct, a few reeds and rushes are 
 still placed in the porch on this 
 day. Adjoining the village is High 
 Elms (Sir J. Lubbock, Bart., M.P.). 
 
 Keston, 2 m. S. of Hayes, has a 
 small Norm, and E. E. ch. (notice 
 the remarkable tomb of Lord Cran- 
 worth, in the ch.-yard, and the 
 curious cross, inlaid in wood, on the 
 Communion Table). Here MissMu- 
 lock (authoress of John Halifax) 
 was buried. Considerable remains 
 of Roman villas, &c, have been 
 found in a field on the rt. of the 
 Western am road as it leaves Keston 
 Common, the view from which is of 
 extreme beauty. In the angle be- 
 tween the villages of Keston and 
 Farnborough are Holwood Hill and 
 Holwood House (the property of Lord 
 Derby), once the residence of Lord 
 Cranworth, and long the favourite 
 retreat of William Pitt (see Lord 
 Stanhope's Life of Pitt), who took 
 great pleasure in planting and lay- 
 ing out the grounds here. ' When 
 a boy/ said Lord Bathurst to the 
 poet Rogers, ' Pitt used to go a birds- 
 nesting in the woods of Holwood, 
 and it was always, he told me, his 
 wish to call it his own/ The present 
 house dates only from 1823, when 
 that in which Pitt resided, a small 
 brick and plaster building, was 
 pulled down. In Holwood Park, 
 just on the descent into the Yale of 
 Keston, at the root of an old oak- 
 tree, Pitt and Wilberforce discussed 
 and settled the Slavery Abolition 
 Bill in 1788, and here Wilberforce 
 resolved to give notice of it in the 
 House of Commons. Lord Stanhope 
 has erected on the spot a stone seat 
 ior the benefit of the public, and to 
 commemorate the fact. 
 
 On the brow of the hill, and com- 
 manding an extensive view on every 
 side (for which it should be ascended 
 even if the tourist have no antiqua- 
 rian bent), are the remains of a very 
 
 large and important fortification, 
 called Caesar's Camp, which is 
 now generally thought to mark the 
 site of the ancient Noviomagus, a 
 Brito-Roman town in the territories 
 of the Regni. The form of the en- 
 closure was oblong, with triple dykes 
 and trenches, surrounding nearly 
 100 acres, a size altogether unusual. 
 The external vallum was about 2 m. 
 in circuit, but the largest portions 
 were many years since levelled; the 
 S. parts now alone remain. Horsely 
 {Brit. Rom.) remarks that the largest 
 station he knew of was ' not a tenth 
 part of this compass.' We have here, 
 however, the site of a town, prob- 
 ably of British origin ; and not of 
 a merely military station such as 
 Rutupias (Richborough) or Regul- 
 bium (Reculver). The walls of the 
 great town of Calleva (Silchester) 
 are nearly 3 m. in circuit. Part of 
 the fortifications have been much 
 injured, and the rest are overgrown 
 with wood ; but sufficient remains 
 to indicate their ancient condition 
 and importance. Roman bricks and 
 tiles, together with \arious coins of 
 the Middle and Lower Empire, are 
 constantly found here ; as well as 
 the foundations of buildings, many 
 of which were exposed in 1856, 
 across the valley towards Keston. 
 Layers of Roman bricks and tiles 
 appear in the towers of several of 
 the village churches in the neigh- 
 bourhood. The Watling Street, 
 after crossing Blackheath, passed 
 to this town of Noviomagus, and 
 then turned N., over Sydenham 
 Common, to London. 
 
 One of the sources of the Ravens- 
 bourne rises close without the W. 
 side of the intrenchments. The 
 spring has been enlarged, and 
 formed into a basin, and goes by 
 the name of Cwsar's Well. 
 
 The high road from London as 
 far as Farnborough passes over 
 lower tertiary beds, except that a 
 small bed of drift gravel occurs 
 here and there. At Farnborough, 
 however, the chalk crops out upon 
 the surface. Immediately beyond 
 
ROUTE 3. — GREEN STREET GREEN — ST. MARY CRAY. 69 
 
 (E.) is the hamlet of Green Street 
 Green ; and if the geologist here 
 turns to the 1. of the main road, 
 and ascends Well Hill, he will be 
 amply repaid for his exertions. 
 
 Green Street Green itself is situ- 
 ated in a trough which has been 
 excavated out of the chalk, and 
 which is partly occupied by a deposit 
 of ' drift' gravel. This 'drift* is a 
 coarse clayey gravel containing flints 
 of two sorts, both of which have been 
 excavated by the action of water 
 from the chalk in which they were 
 formed. The one sort, however, has, 
 after its removal from the chalk, been 
 subject only to wear and tear suffi- 
 cient to render blunt the sharp edges. 
 The second description of flints has 
 a different history. They have been 
 obtained from the strata called the 
 ' Woolwich and Blackheath pebble- 
 beds/ and having been subject to 
 great and long-continued action of 
 water, are reduced to the form of 
 round pebbles. Bones and tusks 
 of the mammoth (Elephas primi- 
 genius) have been found in this 
 gravel. 
 
 Ascending the hill toward Chels- 
 field, we soon rise above the drift 
 gravel, and come again to the chalk, 
 which may be seen in the little 
 cuttings along the side of the road 
 until beyond the village. 
 
 When, however, we have got more 
 than half-way up the hill, the lower 
 tertiary strata, which we had left at 
 Farnborough, reappear on the top 
 of the chalk, and are well exposed 
 by the cuttings along the sides of 
 several of the lanes which ascend 
 the hill. They must therefore at 
 one period have extended over the 
 intermediate space, from which they 
 have since been removed. Further, 
 the extreme top of the hill is capped 
 by a deposit of very peculiar gravel, 
 which is quite distinct from the 
 'Woolwich and Blackheath' peb- 
 ble-beds on the one hand, and from 
 the lower level drift, such as that at 
 Green Street Green, on the other. 
 The flints are less rolled than those 
 
 of the former strata, and more so 
 than those of the latter. The whole 
 gravel is very white, and contains, 
 besides the flints, pieces of chert 
 and bits of quartz from the green- 
 sands which lie S. This very re- 
 markable bed of gravel was first 
 introduced to the notice of geologists 
 by Mr. Prestwich. 
 
 From the narrow ridge forming 
 the top of Well Hill a splendid 
 panoramic view is obtained. 
 
 The spire of Cudham Church 
 comes into view on its high ground 
 3 m. S. of Farnborough. A large 
 portion of the parish is occupied by 
 the Cudham woods, and the whole 
 locality is so wild and solitary that 
 the tourist will have difficulty in 
 believing himself to be less than 
 20 m. from London Bridge. At 
 Downe, between Farnborough and 
 Cudham, is the house for many 
 years inhabited by Charles Darwin.] 
 
 12 m. Bickley (Stat.). 
 
 Bickley, now a populous neigh- 
 bourhood, was, until 1864, a mere 
 hamlet of Bromley. On the hill 
 near Chislehurst is a quaint gate- 
 house, originally intended for a 
 water-tower for the estate on which 
 it stands. 
 
 On 1. is Bickley Park (Mr. G. 
 Wythes) ; over the trees is seen the 
 spire of a handsome modern church, 
 St. George's, Bickley. Just beyond, 
 the S. E. line from London to 
 Sevenoaks crosses the L. C. & D. 
 Rly. 
 
 14! m. St. Mary Cray (Stat.). 
 
 On 1. is the huge paper -mill of 
 Messrs. Joynson and Co., close to 
 and overshadowing the little Perp. 
 church (restored 1862). Brasses: 
 Richard Avery and three wives, 1508 ; 
 Eliz. Cobham, 1544; Rich. Manning, 
 1604; Philadelphia Greenwood, 1747; 
 and R. Greenwood, 1773. The two 
 last exhibit the costume worn in 
 George II. 's reign — a gown with 
 tight sleeves and embroidered skirt, 
 a plaited neckerchief, and a veil 
 
70 koute 3. — st. Paul's 
 
 CRAY — FARNINGHAM. 
 
 thrown over the head and falling 
 behind to the ground ; and the 
 other shows the deceased in a wig, 
 with embroidered waistcoat, and 
 knee-breeches. 
 
 The little river Cray, which is 
 here crossed, may be traced with 
 interest from its source in the parish 
 of Orpington (Rte. 8) N. to Crayford; 
 (2 m.), close below which place it 
 ialls into the Darenth. The whole 
 distance is about 8 m. 
 
 St. Paul's Cray, 1 m. from St. 
 Mary's, has a church dedicated to 
 St.Paulinus, the fellow missionary of 
 Augustine, and third Bishop of Ro- 
 chester. ' It is entirely E. E., with 
 the tooth-moulding over the W. 
 door ; though a curious two-light 
 window, much injured by weather, 
 but of Norman character, and two 
 round holes in the tower, seem to 
 have belonged to an earlier edifice.' 
 — (Hussey.) The Church of Foot's 
 Cray, 2 \ m., is apparently rude 
 early Dec. The chancel is Tr.-Norm. 
 In it are the effigies of Sir Roger 
 de Yaughan and wife, lord of the 
 manor temp. Edw. III., and a 
 brass to T. Myton, rector, 1489. 
 The parish derives its name from 
 the sobriquet of its recorded Saxon 
 proprietor, Godwin Fot, or Foot. 
 There are here several paper-mills 
 on the river. Adjoining North 
 Cray, 1 m. farther down the stream, 
 is Vale Mascall (L. Shuter, Esq.). 
 Mount Mascall (General Sargent) has 
 a fine avenue of lime-trees. Woollett 
 Hall (F. Friend, Esq. ) is where Lord 
 Castlereagh's suicide took place. 
 The valley here is very picturesque. 
 A short distance E. lies Ruxley Farm, 
 where still exists a desecrated ch., 
 the parish originally attached to 
 which is now united to North Cray. 
 The ch., converted into a barn, is 
 late Dec. ; the sedilia remain within. 
 Rokeslie or Ruxley still gives name 
 to the hundred. 
 
 1 m. lower is Bexley, a stat. on 
 the Dartford Loop line. The 
 church was very early attached to 
 
 the ' Priory of the Holy Trinity of 
 London,' and contains some of the 
 original stall-work in the chancel. 
 A church has existed on this spot 
 since 832. The first was of wood — 
 the second erected by Edward the 
 Confessor — the third erected in 12th 
 cent. The object of the restoration 
 has been to reproduce this as far as 
 possible. The greater part of the 
 walls is E. E., as is the tower. The 
 windows are Dec, with Perp. inser- 
 tions. Brass, Thomas Sparrow, 15 13. 
 There is a mural monument for Sir 
 John Champneys, Lord Mayor of 
 London, and wife, 1556. The manor 
 of Bexley was sold by Sir John 
 Spielman, the Dartford paper-manu- 
 facturer, to Camden, the ' reverend 
 head ' to whom English history and 
 archaeology are so greatly indebted. 
 With its rental Camden founded a 
 Professorship of History at Oxford, 
 to which the manor is still attached. 
 In the parish of Bexley are Lamor- 
 bey, sometimes erroneously spelt 
 Lamb Abbey (John Malcolm, Esq.), 
 and The Hollies (F. M. Lewiii, Esq.). 
 The family of Lewin claims descent 
 from Leofwin, brother of King 
 Harold. Hall Place (formerly the 
 seat of the Austins) and Blendon, or 
 Bladindon, are ancient houses of 
 note in this parish. 
 
 For Bexley-heath and Crayford see 
 Rte. 6. 
 
 17 J m. Swanley Junction. On rt. 
 a branch turns off for Sevenoaks, 
 Maidstone, and Ashford. At Swan- 
 ley are the Home for Orphan Boys and 
 the Kent Horticultural College (formerly 
 Hextable House), the first institu- 
 tion of the kind in this country 
 ^Rtes. 6 and 8a). 
 
 2o| m. Farningham-eoad (Stat.), 
 Here the line branches off to 
 Southfieet and Gravesend (Rte. 1). 
 
 The village of Farningham 
 
 (Pop. 884), formerly a market town, 
 lies 2 m. S., nestled picturesquely 
 in the valley between the ridges of 
 chalk hills. The ch. (restored) is 
 mainly E. E., with a Perp. tower. 
 
ROUTE 3. — HORTON KIRBY — DARENTH CHURCH. 71 
 
 Brasses: Will. Gysborne, vicar, 1451* 
 and three smaller ones of the 16th 
 cent. Observe the font, which is 
 Perp., with figures carved on its 
 eight sides. 
 
 1 1 m. S. E. from Farningham is 
 Eynsford. (See Rte. 8a.) 
 
 [On the rt. bank of the Da rent h, 
 i m. S. from the Farningham -road 
 Station, is 
 
 Horton Kirby, once a com- 
 mandery of the Hospitallers. The 
 ch. is cruciform. Principally E. E. 
 Central tower modern. Arcades 
 run round the interior of the tran- 
 septs. The tower arches are of un- 
 usual height. In the chancel, which 
 has been shortened, the E. wall being 
 rebuilt, with three E. E. lancets, 
 is a recessed Dec. tomb, possibly for 
 one of the De Ros family, long time 
 lords of Horton. Brass: John Browne, 
 Esq., 159S 
 
 At the time of the Domesday 
 survey Horton was held under Bp. 
 Odo by Anschetil de Ros, whose 
 descendant, Lora, called 'The Lady 
 of Horton/ conveyed the manor by 
 marriage to the north-country family 
 of Kirby, who already possessed 
 lands here. Hence the name Horton 
 Kirby, which in this case does not 
 indicate a Danish settlement. N. of 
 the ch., and overhanging the stre am 
 of the Darenth, are considerable re- 
 mains of Horton Castle, the strong- 
 hold of the De Ros, and afterwards 
 of the Kirby families. It was re- 
 edified by Roger de Kirby, temp. 
 Edw. I., but the existing remains 
 are of much later character, and 
 have no great interest. Near the 
 railway line is the Home for Little 
 Boys, an exceedingly well-managed 
 institution always open to visitors. 
 
 Opposite, on the 1. bank of the 
 river, is Franks (F. Power, Esq.), a 
 fine old house of brick with stone 
 dressings, built by Launcelot Bath- 
 urst, alderman of London, who pur- 
 chased the estate, temp. Eliz., and 
 died 1594. It was long used as a 
 farmhouse, but was well restored by 
 the late owner, R. Bradford, Esq., 
 
 and is worth a visit. Some Roman 
 foundations were discovered (1866) 
 in the immediate neighbourhood, 
 and a Saxon burying-ground was 
 discovered at South Darenth, in 
 this parish, in 1872.] 
 
 \ m. N. of Farningham-road 
 Station is 
 
 Sutton-at-Hone (in the valley, 
 Sax.), the praises of whose heath-fed 
 mutton have been sung by local bards. 
 The church (originally cruciform) 
 is principally Decorated, though it 
 suffered much from a fire in 1615. 
 On each door of the chancel screen 
 (now removed to the tower arch) 
 is carved a face, with the tongue 
 hanging out of the mouth, and 
 passed through a buckle, the device 
 of an ancient family in the parish 
 named Puckletongue. In the S. 
 aisle of the nave is the monument 
 with recumbent effigy of Sir Thomas 
 Smith, of Sutton Place, 1 Governor 
 of the East Indian and other Com- 
 panies, Treasurer of the Virginian 
 Plantation, and sometime Ambas- 
 sador to the Emperor and Great 
 Duke of Russia and Muscovy/ Sir 
 Thomas, not the least distinguished 
 of Elizabethan navigators, is said 
 to have died of the plague, which 
 devastated all this district in 1625, 
 the year of his death. His once 
 stately mansion of Sution Place, 
 originally erected by Sir Maurice 
 Denys, temp. Hen. VIII., after pass- 
 ing through the hands of the Le- 
 theuilliers, became toward the mid- 
 dle of the last century the property 
 of the Mumford family (present 
 occupier, E. A. Clowes, Esq.) Much 
 of it has been pulled down at dif- 
 ferent times, and the rest modernised. 
 There was formerly here a Precep- 
 tory of the Knights of St. John. 
 
 \ m. beyond, and on the opposite 
 side of the river (1 m. from the 
 stat.), is the remarkable Church 
 of Darenth (locally ' Darne '), 
 which the archaeologist should not 
 leave unvisited. The chancel, which 
 is Trans. -Norman (restored 1868). 
 has two divisions, the easternmost of 
 
72 
 
 ROUTE 3. DARENTH 
 
 CHURCH — NURSTEAD. 
 
 which is vaulted with stone, and is 
 divided into two parts, having a small 
 chamber above the vaulting, sup- 
 posed to have been made when the 
 walls were heightened in the 14th 
 or 15th cent. The three lights in the 
 E. wall are very narrow Norman 
 windows, round-headed, not E. E. 
 lancets. Remark the external orna- 
 ments in the window-heads, which 
 are of very unusual character. 1 A 
 round-headed deeply splayed win- 
 dow in the N. wall of the nave is 
 built entirely, as are the coigns of 
 the nave, of Roman bricks. They 
 are evidently part of the ante- 
 Norman ch., which I infer to have 
 been built in St. Dunstan's time/ — 
 (R. P. C.) There is a squint on the 
 rt. hand of the chancel arch, look- 
 ing to the S. aisle of nave. Notice 
 the unique table of commandments 
 over the pulpit. The ch., which is 
 dedicated to St. Margaret, a patroness 
 in great favour with the Normans, 
 has also E. E. portions, and others 
 of later date. The font is Norman, and 
 is elaborately carved in eight com- 
 partments, divided by semicircular 
 arches, containing quaint carvings 
 — one of a king, one of a harpist, 
 one of the rite of baptism. The 
 font is partly surrounded by old 
 wooden railings. An ancient stone 
 basin, or stoup, is preserved in 
 the ch., which had, previous to 
 the restoration, been used as a 
 pedestal to the font. Its origin is 
 unknown. (Could it have been a 
 Roman mortar?) In the ch.-yard 
 is a monument to Frances Charlotte 
 John Martha, wife of F. Thorpe. 
 
 Darenth was given by the Saxon 
 Duke Eadulf, in 940, to Christ 
 Church, Canterbury ; and it con- 
 tinued in possession of that monas- 
 tery until ir95, when Abp. Hubert 
 exchanged it for Lambeth with the 
 priory of St. Andrew at Rochester, 
 which retained it until the Pissolu- 
 tion. The earlier portions of the ch. 
 here are therefore the work of the 
 great Canterbury Priory, and should 
 be compared with such Norman re- 
 mains as exist on other manors once 
 
 belonging to the same house. 1 m. 
 S.E. of the ch. stood the Chapel of 
 St. Margaret Helles, a separate pre- 
 cinct until 1557, when it was united 
 to the parish of Darenth, and the 
 chapel speedily fell to ruin. No 
 traces remain. On the hill opposite 
 are many barrows ; and there is an 
 earthwork of some extent in Darenth 
 Wood adjoining. On both sides 
 of the railway embankment have 
 been discovered traces of a Saxon 
 cemetery (in 1868). 
 
 The Asylum and School for Imbecile 
 Children. (Met. District), erected in 
 1878, is one of the largest institu- 
 tions of the kind in the country. 
 The large Gunpowder Works of Messrs. 
 Pigou and Wilks adjoin the river. 
 Darenth may be reached from Dart- 
 ford (2 m.) (Rte. 6). 
 
 23J m. Fawkham (Stat.). 
 
 3 m. S. of Fawkham is Ash, with 
 E. E. and'Perp. Church, containing a 
 brass to — Galon, rector, 1445. 
 
 26 m. Meopham (Stat.). 
 
 The village, i| m. S., lies pleasantly 
 among the chalk hills, parts of 
 which are here thickly wooded. A 
 portion of the village is built round 
 a broad green, in true old Kentish 
 fashion. The Ch. (seen from the 
 station, N.), which is large and good, 
 is chiefly Dec, with Perp. altera- 
 tions by Abp. Courtenay. It was 
 rebuilt, as a gift to his native place, 
 by Simon de Meopham, that un- 
 happy Abp. of Canterbury (1327- 
 33) who fell a victim to the com- 
 bined assaults of the Pope and the 
 Bishop of Exeter (see his tomb in 
 Canterbury Cathedral, post). The 
 brasses which formerly existed here 
 are said to have been melted during 
 the recasting of the bells toward the 
 end of the last cent. Meopham was 
 granted by Eadulf to the church of 
 Canterbury in 940, and after the 
 Dissolution was restored by Henry 
 to the newly-founded chapter. 
 
 At !N"urstead, a short distance 
 N. of Meopham, some very slight 
 remains of a most interesting 14th- 
 
ROUTE 3. — COBHAM 
 
 PARK — ROCHESTER. 7 3 
 
 century manor-house have, within 
 the last few years, been worked into 
 a modern building (Nurstead Court, 
 Major-Gen. Edwardes). Much larger 
 portions were destroyed at the same 
 time. There were here a remarkable 
 hall, with timber columns and 
 arches, two small rooms adjoining, 
 and a fragment of a strong tower. A 
 portion of the old roof and tower 
 remain. Richard de Gravesend 
 (1280) and Stephen de Gravesend 
 (1319% bishops of London, were of 
 the family who held this manor. 
 
 27 m. Sole Street (Stat.). 
 
 On N. 2 m. Cobham Park (post). 
 On S. 1 1 m. Luddesdown, with a 
 ch. with a brass of the Montacute 
 family. The line runs for some time 
 mainly in a deep cutting, but as it 
 nears Strood affords a fine view of 
 the Medway, with Rochester Cathe- 
 dral and Castle on the opposite 
 bank. 
 
 33 m. Rochester Bridge Stat, (on 
 the Strood side of the river, near the 
 Strood Stat. S.E.R.\ and £ m. far- 
 ther Rochester Stat., opened in 
 1892. For S.E. Stations see Rte. 6, 
 
 I. Preliminary Remarks. 
 
 ROCHESTER (Rochester stat. ; 
 pop. of city, which includes parts of 
 Frindsbury, Strood and Chat- 
 ham, 26,170 in 1 891) stands at the 
 point where the highroad between 
 London and the S.E. towns, the old 
 Watling Street,crosses the tidal Med- 
 way. It is a place of some commer- 
 cial importance and great historical 
 interest. It is a city, and a municipal 
 and parliamentary borough ; its first 
 charter of incorporation was granted 
 by Henry II. It is also the seat 
 of a customs port of entry. In 
 Elizabethan times it was practic- 
 ally confined within the mediaeval 
 walls, only the suburb of St. Mar- 
 garet's on the rising ground to the 
 S., and perhaps a few houses of 
 residence on the E., lying without 
 them. Early in this century it began 
 
 to extend itself and soon became 
 continuous with Chatham ; and 
 later on it spread itself along the 
 valley of Delce, once a fair farm, 
 by the successive suburbs of Troy 
 Town and New Town. Besides 
 the shipping there are various im- 
 portant industries. The well-known 
 'Invicta' road-engines are made at 
 the works of Aveling and Porter at 
 Strood. There are large brick-fields ; 
 and H.M. dockyard at Chatham 
 gives employment to many of the 
 inhabitants. The mouth of the 
 Medway was once celebrated for its 
 oyster-fisheries, but there are no 
 oysters there now. Cement works 
 line the bank of the river opposite 
 Rochester Common — the lime for 
 the cement is got from the chalk, 
 and the clay from the river-mud — 
 and this work employs a fleet of 
 picturesque barges. 
 
 II. History. 
 
 a. Rochester is the modern form of 
 the old Hrofeceastre, and points to the 
 fact that the city occupies the site of 
 a Roman castrum or fortified camp. 
 Hrofe being possibly the name of the 
 Saxon chieftain who took possession 
 of the castrum when it was deserted 
 by the Roman troops in the fifth 
 century (see Bede). The Roman 
 name, Durobriice or Durobrivis (Celtic 
 Dwr, water) in its turn implies an 
 earlier occupation of the ford or 
 ferry by the British. It was natural 
 that the Romans should make a 
 castrum at so important a spot on 
 their great road from Dover, Rich- 
 borough, Canterbury, and other im- 
 portant places to London and the 
 N. No trace of Roman walls 
 (which may have been destroyed by 
 the Saxons after the departure of 
 the invaders) remains, but it is 
 known that the Watling Street 
 (High Street) ran through the camp 
 and the latter included the hill on 
 which the castle now stands. The 
 remnant of the mediaeval wall near 
 the river has been cut through to 
 its foundations in the extension of 
 
74 
 
 ROUTE 3. — ROCHESTER : HISTOEY. 
 
 the S. E. Rly. The Roman level is 
 7 or io ft. below the present surface 
 of the ground, so that not much 
 is known of the Roman buildings : 
 foundations have been opened up, 
 however, both within and without 
 the mediaeval walls. 
 
 b. The history of mediaeval Ro- 
 chester is closely bound up with 
 that of its cathedral and castle. 
 The cathedral existed, however, five 
 cents, before the castle was built. 
 St. Augustine sent a mission to 
 Hrofeceastre in 604. He consecrated 
 a bishop Justus, to superintend it, 
 and King Ethelbert built a cathedral 
 for him. Throughout Saxon times 
 the Bishop of the 1 castle of Hrof, 
 which is called Hrofeceastre 1 / — 
 was head of the city as well as of 
 the church, and had to defend both 
 as best he might against all enemies. 
 This was a difficult task, owing to 
 the exposed position of the place, 
 and more than once the bishop was 
 compelled to flee from his post. 
 Several times the Danes attacked 
 and pillaged the city ; they seem 
 indeed to have made a permanent 
 settlement here. It was probably 
 the Danes who first inhabited and 
 fortified Boley Hill, the raised 
 ground immediately S. of the castle 
 and beyond the original limits of 
 the city. There is evidence that 
 later on the inhabitants of the hill 
 had the right of holding a Court leet 
 under an elm-tree upon the mound. 
 This unusual right of separate juris- 
 diction from that of the city, would 
 indicate that there was a foreign 
 community settled here, and that 
 they obtained royal confirmation of 
 independent rights. Only gradually, 
 probably after many hundreds of 
 years, would the community and its 
 rights be absorbed in the city with 
 its ordinary jurisdiction. This view 
 of the origin of the i view of frank- 
 pledge' and right to hold * court of 
 pie-powder' (to settle differences 
 concerning bargain and sale), granted 
 
 1 This word refers to the whole city, the 
 Roman castrum ; for there was no castle pro- 
 perly so called in those days. 
 
 to the inhabitants of Boley Hill, is 
 supported by the name of the hill. 
 Boley Hill (or Bully Hill) is not 
 uncommon in the Danish parts of 
 Lincolnshire. It probably refers to 
 the rounded shape of the hill, which 
 in this case is partly natural, partly 
 artificial ; and is connected with our 
 word bole (stem of a tree\ boiled 
 (swollen). It may have reference 
 to the tree (bole) under which the 
 Danish thing or assembly was held. 
 It is not long since the last sign of 
 the original independence of this 
 community disappeared. The hill 
 is best studied from the top of the 
 castle. It was enclosed by the city 
 walls on the reconstruction of the 
 latter in the 13th century. 
 
 c. Coming to Norman times the 
 history illustrates how important 
 was the position from a strategic 
 point of view. Gundulf (circ. 1080), 
 the second Norman bishop, built a 
 strong square Keep on the earth- 
 works wjiich appear to have then 
 formed the Eastern boundary of the 
 city — this keep is now attached to 
 the cathedral. William the Con- 
 queror felt the necessity of holding 
 a strong position here, and made an 
 exchange of lands with the bishop 
 with that view. It is uncertain 
 when the first Castle (in our sense 
 of the word ) was built, but probably 
 the Castle-hill was fortified, or earlier 
 fortifications strengthened, about 
 this time. Odo, half-brother to the 
 Conqueror, Bishop of Bayeux and 
 Earl of Kent, when he favoured the 
 cause of Earl Robert against the suc- 
 cession of William Rufus, took pos- 
 session of Rochester and was closely 
 besieged there by the king. Bp. 
 Grundulph successfully mediated 
 between them. The connection of 
 the Bp. of Rochester with the de- 
 fences of the city was finally severed 
 in 1 126 when Henry I. granted to 
 archbishop William de Corbeuil and 
 his successors the custody and con- 
 stableship of the i Castle of Hrof ' — 
 i. e. the city, probably — with permis- 
 sion to build within it a tower. The 
 existing grand Keep was William 
 
ROUTE 3.— ROCHESTER : HISTORY. 
 
 75 
 
 de Corbeuil's work. Robert, earl of 
 Gloucester, counsellor of Matilda, 
 was imprisoned here in 1141, but 
 was soon exchanged forKing Stephen. 
 The castle played an important part 
 in the Barons' war against King 
 John. The archbp. (Stephen Lang- 
 ton) had put it into the hands of de 
 Albinet. It was closely besieged by 
 the king (1215), and only succumbed 
 to him after a gallant defence of 
 three months duration. In 12 16 it 
 was retaken for the Barons by the 
 dauphin Louis of France, five months 
 before John's death. Then again it 
 fell to the Crown, and the archbishops 
 of Canterbury never regained posses- 
 sion. Henry III. was alive to the 
 necessity of repairing the castle 
 and strengthening the position of 
 Rochester. He built the walls 
 which enclose the ballium, on the 
 S. side of the castle, and made a 
 drawbridge which has disappeared. 
 A great part of the walls of the city 
 and the fosse around them were 
 made at the same time. The city 
 had three principal gates : the South, 
 gate, near Boley Hill ; the East 
 gate ; and the Cheldegate on the 
 North. The gates have disappeared, 
 but the sites are known. King Henry 
 seems to have liked Rochester, for 
 he is recorded to have held a grand 
 tournament here in 125 1. It is said 
 that it was in these fields that his 
 subjects' dislike of his fondness for 
 foreigners was first discovered. In 
 the civil war which followed, Simon 
 de Montfort pillaged the city and 
 cathedral, but was obliged to with- 
 draw without taking the castle, which 
 was held by Earl Warren. After 
 the battle of Lewes, where Henry 
 was defeated, the castle was ceded 
 to the Barons, but the battle of 
 Evesham restored the king's power 
 and with it the castle. It was again 
 governed by the king's constable, 
 and so continued until changes in 
 the mode of warfare made it useless 
 for defensive purposes, and it was 
 allowed to go to ruin. In 1610 James 
 I. alienated it from the Crown, and 
 in 1883 it was purchased by the 
 
 [Kent] 
 
 Corporation of Rochester and thrown 
 open to the public. 
 
 (d) The Norman bishop Gundulf 
 established a monastery at Roches- 
 ter, and so many distinguished 
 visitors used to be entertained in 
 the monks' Guest-house, that doubt- 
 less the church of Rochester was not 
 infrequently enriched by offerings 
 which had been intended for Canter- 
 bury. It had its martyr and saint. 
 In 1201, a baker of Perth, William 
 by name, was murdered by his 
 companion and adopted son near 
 Rochester while on a pilgrimage to 
 Canterbury. The monks of Rochester 
 buried his body in their cathedral 
 church, obtained sufficient pilgrims 
 and enough money through their 
 offerings to make it advisable and 
 possible to enlarge their church, and 
 got the baker canonized in 1264. 
 Edward I. when passing through 
 Rochester in 1300 made handsome 
 offerings at St. William's shrine. 
 King John II. of France, when a 
 prisoner after the battle of Poictiers 
 did the same. The monastery in due 
 course shared the fate of its fellows 
 and was dissolved by Henry VIIL, 
 who put the cathedral church into 
 the hands of a chapter of secular 
 canons with a dean at their head ; 
 and their successors still hold the 
 church. The King's School was 
 founded at the same time. 
 
 (e) After the dissolution of the 
 monastery Henry VIIL kept a part 
 of the monastic buildings for a royal 
 lodging, and there first beheld Anne 
 of Cleves. Hall and Stowe give very 
 different accounts of the interview, 
 but neither mentions the traditional 
 story. Queen Elizabeth twice visited 
 the city, on the first occasion staying 
 five days, mostly at the Crown, partly 
 at the house of Mr. Richard Watts 
 (see p. 77) on Boley Hill. The house 
 since that visit has been called Satis 
 House, from the word with which, 
 so the story goes, the Queen laconi- 
 cally expressed her satisfaction with 
 the hospitality which had been 
 offered her. The Dean and Chapter 
 spent a sum which would now be 
 
 H 
 
76 
 
 KOUTE 3. — ROCHESTER: HISTORY — WALKS. 
 
 equal to 400L in honorem Domince 
 Regince. About that time the city 
 contained 500 houses. Both Eliza- 
 beth and James I. came to Rochester 
 in order to visit the fleet 'in the 
 upper reach ' at Chatham. 
 
 Rochester played an important 
 part in the Royalist rising of 1648. A 
 Parliamentarian wrote (May 24th) 
 i At least 1000 in Rochester risen ; 
 much powder in the ships ; the 
 sovereign near ; and if some speedy 
 course be not taken it may be too 
 late/ ' The Petition of Kent ' for 
 the restoration of the monarchy had 
 gained 20,000 signatures, and the 
 petitioners were to assemble at 
 Rochester on the 29th of May, the 
 Prince of Wales' birthday, and 
 march to Blackheath, and thence 
 to Westminster, to present their 
 petition. Moreover they had in- 
 fected the fleet in the Downs with 
 their zeal. The Parliament decided 
 to leave the whole business to the 
 general, which meant that the 
 loyalty of the men of Kent was to be 
 extinguished by the soldiers of Fair- 
 fax. Some 10,000 of them reached 
 Blackheath, where they were met 
 by Fairfax with 7000 men. The 
 untrained, ill-armed Royalists fell 
 back, and crossing the river at 
 Rochester massed again on the 
 heights near Aylesford. Fairfax 
 crossed at Farleigh and took Maid- 
 stone (q. v.) after a stubborn fight. 
 This practically closed the affair. 
 One who saw the struggle quaintly 
 wrote the epitaph of the men of Kent : 
 ' They rose naked and solitary — 
 stood so ; and so fell .... They 
 spake firm for liberty and monarchy. 
 Let their ashes find peace for it ; 
 their memories, honour ; and let 
 them that come after read it.' 
 Twelve years later, when the whole 
 country was ready to welcome the 
 return to the old order of things, 
 Charles II. slept, the night before 
 the Restoration, at Restoration House 
 (see below ; now the property of Mr. 
 Stephen Aveling), and was presented 
 with a silver basin and ewer. By a 
 singular fate it was from Rochester 
 
 that his successor, James II., made 
 his escape in 1688. 
 
 CO Soon after the Restoration 
 Pepys visited Rochester and had a 
 merry time — 
 
 ' the pleasantest in all respects that I ever 
 had in my life. Saw the Cathedrall, which is 
 now fitting for use, and the organ then a 
 tuning. I did there walk to visit the old 
 Castle ruins, which hath been a noble place, 
 and there going up I did upon the stairs over- 
 take three pretty mayds and took them up 
 with me ; but Lord ! to see what a dreadful 
 thing it is to look down the precipices, for it 
 did fright me mightily, and. hinder me of 
 much pleasure which I would have made to 
 myself in the company of these three, if it 
 had not been for that.' 
 
 Dr. Johnson, too, visited Roches- 
 ter, much to the advantage of his 
 health, towards the end of his life. 
 He went to see a Freemason's 
 funeral procession at St. Margaret's, 
 and heard solemn music on French 
 horns: — 'This is the first time I 
 have ever been affected "by musical 
 sounds.' Charles Dickens lived at 
 Gad's-hill, near Rochester, and 
 drew inspiration from the old city, 
 specially for Edwin Brood. In the 
 Pickivick Papers will be found a de- 
 scription of the High Street as it 
 was in his day. A few additional 
 historical notes will be placed, more 
 suitably perhaps, under the succeed- 
 ing heads. 
 
 III. Walks through the City. 
 
 (a) The visitor, alighting at Ro- 
 chester Bridge (L. C. & D.) or 
 Strood (S. E. R.) \ will make his way 
 over the Bridge (see p. 73% re- 
 marking the fine view of river, 
 hills, St. Margaret's Church, 
 Castle and Cathedral, and he will 
 turn down to the right along the 
 Esplanade, noticing (right) the 
 balustrades of the old bridge, 
 which was destroyed in 1856, and 
 
 1 If the visitor finds himself at one of the 
 stations at the Chatham end of the town he 
 will find it convenient to take the paragraphs 
 a and b under this head in the reverse order ; 
 in fact he will make the best of his way along 
 Eastgate and the High Street towards the 
 Bridge^ and thence turn to the left for the 
 Castle. 
 
ROUTE 3. — ROCHESTER: WALKS. 
 
 77 
 
 (left)the ruined bridge-chapel, which 
 stood at the foot of the old bridge, 
 as he makes his way towards the 
 entrance to the Castle grounds. If 
 
 he is an expert archaeologist, before 
 entering the grounds he may go on to 
 the pier and examine the walls as 
 seen therefrom. The rock-facing is 
 of course modern. Above it are the 
 rough foundations of Roman or early 
 Saxon work — an exceedingly tough 
 concrete with no admixture of red 
 brick. Above that again are the 
 remains of an early Norman wall, 
 probably built by Bishop Gundulf 
 (nth century) : the stones are set 
 aslant with wide irregular mortar 
 joints in fairly regular courses. 
 Above this there is 12th or 13th 
 century work. The junction of the 
 early Norman with the harder and 
 earlier concrete may be more closely 
 examined in the grounds at the point 
 where the wall breaks off. The 
 early Norman wall also may be well 
 seen in the grounds and compared 
 with the later Norman masonry of 
 the castle. The entrance to the 
 grounds was pierced by Royal 
 Engineers in 1871, and the archway 
 is pseudo-Norman of that date. A 
 full description of the castle is given 
 below, but it may be well to intro- 
 duce here a description of what may 
 be seen from the top of the Keep, 
 whence there are very fine views. 
 Looking E. the cathedral first attracts 
 the eye. The view of the W. front is 
 good ; but beyond it the low roofs to 
 the nave (15th century), the high 
 roofs to the transepts (1871, 6), and 
 the unsightly modern-Gothic tower 
 (1826) do not harmonize well. 
 Below the E. end on the right is 
 the front of the ruined Chapter- 
 house (Norman), and behind it 
 the Deanery. On the hill in the 
 distance behind is the massive 
 square ' temple ' which was run up 
 by the Jezreelites or Latter-day 
 Israelites, and which remains un- 
 finished and deserted. Round the 
 bend of the river, below, lies 
 Chatham. Looking down to the 
 road immediately below him, the 
 
 visitor may see on the other side the 
 gable end of the old Bishop's 
 Palace. A little further off is 
 Minor Canon Row. On the rt. 
 
 the chief building (modern) not far 
 distant is the King's School ; and 
 at the end of the Vines the School 
 House and the Vines Congregational 
 Chapel stand close together. On the 
 hill beyond is Fort Pitt (1803), 
 where the Waterloo and Crimean 
 veterans lie in a graveyard sur- 
 rounded by trees. S. of the 
 tower the visitor has a beautiful 
 view of the Medway meandering 
 along the great valley it has cut for 
 itself through the chalk escarpment 
 of the North Downs. Immediately 
 below is Satis House (II. c.) and 
 behind it the mound of Boley Hill 
 (see II. b.) ; Boley Hill House on 
 the mound to the left ; and behind 
 lies St. Margaret's Church, the 
 Fort Clarence, and in the for 
 dist;» nee Borstal Fort and Con- 
 vict Prison — the line of forts is 
 being constructed by the prisoners 
 under the superintendence of the 
 Royal Engineers. On the W. may 
 be seen Strood, where Chas. Roach 
 Smith, the antiquary, lived for many 
 years; and, on the hill to rt. over 
 the bridge, Frindsbury Church. On 
 the N. side are the white chalk 
 cliffs and the cement works on the 
 further side of the river. On the 
 other side of the 1 upper reach ' may 
 be seen the large sheds of the 
 Dockyard. The Royal Marine 
 Barracks lie on the river side to 
 rt. and above and behind is 
 Brompton, with Trinity Church 
 spire and the Garrison Chapel. 
 
 Leaving the castle grounds by the 
 small door on S. the visitor will find 
 himself in Baker's Walks, opened 
 out by the last Baron of Boley Hill 
 early in this century, and will see 
 Satis House immediately in front of 
 him. Keeping to 1. he will at length 
 find himself in front of the Cathe- 
 dral. It will be convenient to 
 examine first the N. exterior of the 
 Cathedral, passing through the 
 Deanery Gate, and by Gundulf s 
 
 h 2 
 
78 
 
 EOUTE 3. — ROCHESTER I WALKS. 
 
 Tower as far as the E. end, return- 
 ing by the same way to see the 
 front before going inside the build- 
 ing. A full account of the cathe- 
 dral is given below, but it may here 
 be said that the church close to the 
 cathedral on the N. side is the 
 parish church of St. Nicholas, built 
 in 1421, and rebuilt in 1624. In 
 Saxon times the cathedral was 
 really the parish church. When 
 the Normans came and introduced 
 monks at Rochester, a part of the 
 cathedral was set apart for the use 
 of the parishioners. But the regu- 
 lars and seculars quarrelled, until 
 at last the monks gave the parish- 
 ioners a piece of ground on which 
 to build a separate church for them- 
 selves. The mayor and corporation 
 still retain the right of entry at the 
 W. door of the cathedral. Proceed- 
 ing now to the S. side of the cathedral 
 the visitor will see a half-buried 
 arch in the wall some 100 ft. from 
 the S. transept : this was the outer 
 portal of the porch of the old 
 monastic buildings. The house 
 opposite is a part of the old palace 
 of the bishops — they have had 
 palaces, besides, at Trottescliffe, 
 Hailing, Lambeth Marsh (Carlisle 
 House\ Rochester House in South- 
 wark ; Bromley, Chiswick, Danbury 
 in Essex, Selsdon in Surrey, and 
 finally Bishop's House, Kennington 
 Road. In front is one of the old 
 gateways of the precinct, and called 
 Prior's Gate. Avoiding this and 
 turning 1. the visitor will pass along 
 Junior Canon Row (built in 1736), 
 with a modern Choristers' School 
 on 1. Turning rt. he will pass two 
 or three prebendal houses and the 
 cathedral or King's school, a large 
 modern building, and so on into the 
 Vines or Vineyard of the monks of 
 old. Crossing the Vines, which is 
 an exceedingly pretty place in spring 
 and summer, he will see in the N.E. 
 corner the modern King's School- 
 house, and hard by, facing him, 
 Restoration House — so called 
 from the fact that Charles II. slept 
 there just before the Restoration of 
 
 the monarchy. It is a fine example 
 of late Elizabethan architecture, in 
 plan like the letter E, built of red 
 brick. Some alterations were made 
 in the porch and walls on each side 
 about 50 years after its erection. 
 The house stands in Crow Lane, 
 down which the visitor will turn 1., 
 being careful when he reaches the 
 new Baptist Chapel to make his way 
 by the cottages S. of the chapel in 
 order to get a view of a very fine bit 
 of the 13th century city wall and 
 ditch. It will be noticed that there 
 is an extension of the wall at this 
 point, the later wall running over 
 the ditch as the latter turns west- 
 ward. This extension was made 
 by the monks in 1294 by permission 
 of Edw. I. Now if the visitor have 
 half-an-hour to spare he will ask his 
 way to Fort Pitt Hill, whence he 
 may get a very fine view of the 
 winding river and the shipping. 
 He will also see St. Bartholomew's 
 Hospital, a modern building, a re- 
 foundation for modem needs of a 
 hospital founded for lepers by Gun- 
 dulf in the nth century. The 
 Norman Chapel(of different dates, 
 restored) with its circular apse, un- 
 common in Kent, remains, and is 
 worth a visit. Fort Pitt is one of 
 a line of forts, connected by enormous 
 ditches, erected early in the present 
 century, now superseded by the forts 
 that are being built along a line 
 some two miles inland. 
 
 As he returns to the High St. the 
 visitor will see rt. a fine 16th cent, 
 house called Eastgate House, into 
 which he may obtain admittance. 
 Other fine old houses still remain 
 on the S. side of the street. He may 
 then go down Free-school Lane, nearly 
 opposite Crow Lane (or Maidstone 
 Road), there to see more of the 
 mediaeval walls (13th cent.). At 
 the corner of Free-school Lane is 
 the school for the sons of Freemen 
 founded in 1701 under the will of 
 Sir Joseph Williamson. The old 
 wall, if continued across the High 
 St., would cross the site of the East 
 Gate of the city, long since destroyed. 
 
ROUTE 3. — ROCHESTER : CASTLE AND KEEP. 
 
 79 
 
 A little further on, on the N. side 
 of the street, is Richard Watts's 
 Hospital, founded in 1579, an( i to 
 be recognised by its remarkable in- 
 scription, which declares that 'six 
 poor travellers may receive here lodg- 
 ing, entertainment, and fourpence 
 each, for one night, provided they 
 be not rogues nor proctors 1 .' The 
 house, a small three-gabled edifice, 
 was rebuilt in 177 1, and is occupied 
 by a master and mistress, by whom 
 the ' poor travellers ' are cared for. 
 In the garden are two buildings 
 (parts of the original edifice', one 
 a common hall, in which a plenti- 
 ful meal of meat, bread, and beer is 
 supplied ; and the other a range of 
 six small neat rooms, where each 
 man has really good accommodation. 
 But this hospice, on which, or per- 
 haps rather on its inscription, many 
 jokes have been passed, by no means 
 adequately represents the charity 
 of Master Watts. The estates that 
 he left, mostly in or near Rochester, 
 but some in London, have now a 
 revenue of about 7000Z. a year, for 
 the due disposal of which a scheme 
 was sanctioned by the Court of 
 Chancery in 1859. ln pursuance 
 of this a handsome range of alms- 
 houses has been erected on the 
 Maidstone Road, where 10 men and 
 10 women, 'who have seen better 
 days/ are lodged, with an allowance 
 of 30Z. a year each ; and five of the 
 latter, with a larger stipend, are 
 employed as nurses for the poor of 
 
 1 There is an interesting paper On the word 
 Proctor by Sir Francis Pal grave in vol. xviii. 
 of the Archaeologia. 
 
 4 You've best get a clap-dish, and say 
 You are a Proctor to some spittal house.' 
 It appears that by statute of Edward VI. it 
 was lawful for lepers and bedridden people 
 to appoint their proctors to gather alms for 
 them. Such lazar or leper houses as existed 
 at Rochester and Chatham would naturally 
 take advantage of the privilege ; but so, too, 
 would mendicant lepers, and every tramp 
 who could concoct a counterfeit license. Thus 
 before long the word proctor became synony- 
 mous with rogue and vagabond. The privi- 
 lege, manifestly open to abuse, was abolished 
 in the next reign. Moreover, as Sir F. Pal- 
 grave remarks, the reasons for refusing ad- 
 mittance either to a true proctor or to a 
 simulated one are sufficiently obvious. 
 
 the neighbourhood. The trustees 
 also pay 1000?. to St. Bartholomew's 
 Hospital, Chatham, besides having 
 contributed 4000Z. towards its re- 
 building, and apply 200?. for baths 
 and washhouses, and 100?. (all 
 yearly) as apprentice fees. 
 
 The gilt Clock, which projects 
 into the High St. from the old Corn 
 Exchange, ' as if Time carried on 
 business there, and hung out his 
 sign/ was the gift of Sir Cloudesley 
 Shovel (more than once Mayor of 
 the city), 1706. The Guildhall (in 
 which is Sir Cloudesley's portrait , 
 situated opposite the Bull Inn, 
 dates from 1687, and assists, with 
 other brick fronts and heavy cor- 
 nices, in producing a certain air of 
 bag-wig and ruffles felt throughout 
 the street. To this the recollection 
 of James II.'s detention here at the 
 time of his abdication may possibly 
 contribute. The weathercock of the 
 town-hall — a gilt ship — is a con- 
 spicuous object. The house (47 
 High St.) which James II. is said 
 to have occupied is not far from the 
 clock, and on the same side. It is 
 now faced with brick, and has been 
 modernized. The king escaped 
 through the garden at the back of 
 the house, and made his way across 
 the common to the tender in the 
 river. 
 
 There are few places worth seeing 
 which are not included in this 
 perambulation, but if time permits 
 a walk of about an hour may be 
 taken up St. Margaret's and the 
 Borstal Road, above the river, over 
 the hill by Borstal Prison, and back 
 to the city by the Maidstone Road 
 which commands some fine views. 
 St. Margaret's Church is modern 
 except the tower. It contains a 
 good brass of a priest. 
 
 IV. The Castle and Keep. 
 
 (a) It is uncertain when the hill 
 on which the ca stle stands was first 
 fortified. The wall which overlooks 
 the river contains in itself sufficient 
 evidence that Bishop Gundulf, in 
 
80 
 
 ROUTE 3. — ROCHESTER: CASTLE AND KEEP. 
 
 early Norman times, either built 
 new walls or repaired old ones (see 
 II. a.) ; and the existence of walls 
 in later Norman times is proved by 
 the large openings which are seen 
 in the lower part of the E. side of 
 the keep. There is documentary 
 evidence that Henry III. caused the 
 walls to be repaired and a new draw- 
 bridge to be made. The walls, then, 
 as Ave see them (some parts of them 
 having been wilfully pulled down by 
 an owner of the last century), with 
 their bastions and square open 
 towers recurring at intervals, may 
 be looked upon as a composite work 
 of different ages. The river flowed 
 along under the walls on the W. 
 side, and the other three sides were 
 surrounded by a moat, which was 
 spanned by a drawbridge on the N.E. 
 side (just in front of the present 
 Liberal Club), by which there was 
 an easy descent from the Milium into 
 the High Street. 
 
 (&) The existing glorious ruined 
 keep is without doubt not the work 
 of Gundulf, but it is the defence or 
 tower which William de Corbeuil, 
 archbp. of Canterbury, is recorded to 
 have built after 1126, in which 
 year Henry I. granted to him and 
 his successors the custody and con- 
 stableship of the ( castle of Hrof/ in 
 fact of Rochester. The general his- 
 tory of the castle has already been 
 given (see II. c); and it only remains 
 to describe the keep. In general plan 
 and design all the Norman keeps of 
 the 12th century are alike, following 
 the type which Gundulf, the Con- 
 queror's architect, introduced in the 
 White Tower of London. The Norman 
 keeps of Colchester, Hedingham, 
 Norwich, and Canterbury are all 
 larger than Rochester ; Newcastle 
 is smaller. None of these, however, 
 show the original arrangement 
 better than Rochester, and no Eng- 
 lish ruin of this period gives a more 
 powerful impression of ancient gran- 
 deur. This is owing to the fact that 
 all the floors and roofs have disap- 
 peared, so that the whole of the 
 internal arrangements may be seen 
 
 at once by anyone looking either 
 upwards from below or downwards 
 from the top. The keep forms a 
 quadrangle about 70 ft. square and 
 100 high. At each angle is a buttress 
 tower 12 ft. square, and rising about 
 25 ft. above the principal mass. 
 Attached to the E. angle on the N. 
 side is a smaller tower, about two- 
 thirds of the height of the other and 
 28 ft. square. The first floor of this 
 adjunct forms the vestibule to the 
 main entrance, which was origin- 
 ally reached by a covered way and 
 a drawbridge, signs of which remain . 
 Nowadays the visitor usually enters 
 by a modern opening pierced through 
 the wall into the dungeon of the 
 keep, which is the undercroft of the 
 vestibule and is vaulted with rubble 
 in the early Norman style, the groins 
 having no ribs. It is not early Nor- 
 man in date, however - r the plain- 
 ness of the vaulting is to be accounted 
 for by the use to which the place 
 was put. The plan and general 
 arrangements of the keep may be 
 studied from the ground floor inside 
 the building. Its internal measure- 
 ment is about 44 ft. square. A cur- 
 tain wall running E. and W. through 
 the centre up its whole height divides 
 it into two parts, N. and S. The 
 outer walls are about 1 1 ft. thick. 
 The partition wall is 5 ft. thick, and 
 nearly in the centre of it is a deep 
 circular well, the shaft of which 
 runs up in the wall to the top of the 
 building. On each floor there is an 
 opening into this well-shaft. The 
 shaft is 2| ft. in diameter. The walls 
 are built chiefly of Kentish rag f 
 a stone got from the neighbourhood 
 of Maidstone. There is also a certain 
 amount of ironstone in them. The 
 cut and faced stone is Caen-stone. 
 Many other stones have been used 
 in restoration. The junctions of the 
 13th century S.E. angle with the 
 earlier work may be seen in the S. 
 and E. walls, running from the bot- 
 tom up to the top. It is remarkable 
 that the old-fashioned round arch 
 was adopted in preference to the 
 then common pointed arch by the 
 
ROUTE 3. — ROCHESTER : CASTLE AND KEEP. 
 
 81 
 
 13th cent, builders. The rows of 
 t put-log ' holes and the lines of wall- 
 plates show that there were three 
 floors above the ground-floor. They 
 were reached by a newel staircase, 
 the newel of which has disappeared, 
 in the N.E. corner. Another newel 
 staircase rises from the first floor in 
 the S.W. corner. 
 
 The ground-floor was the store- 
 room, which was about 20 ft. high. 
 It was lighted by narrow round- 
 headed slits with splayed jambs and 
 graduated sills. There are cells in 
 the two western angles. On the N. 
 side there is communication with 
 a dimly lighted room underneath 
 the vestibule, and underneath this 
 again with the dungeon. In the W. 
 wall, near the S.W. angle, there is 
 a curious shaft running up inside 
 the wall, and communicating with 
 the first and second floors ; there is 
 a similar feature in the south wall. 
 These are garde-robes. The two di- 
 visions of the store-room communi- 
 cate with one another by two plain 
 round-headed openings in the cur- 
 tain wall. Similar openings serve 
 a like purpose on the first floor. 
 
 The first floor was the guard- 
 room. The arrangement of the N. 
 wall at this level will help to explain 
 the design of the whole. Towards 
 the E. side is the main entrance, 
 and the rest of the space is occupied 
 by a fireplace between two re- 
 cesses. The latter are about 9 ft. in 
 depth, being blocked by a wall 2 ft. 
 thick, at the top of which is a square- 
 headed opening for light. The ar- 
 rangement of the S. wall is very 
 similar, a recess taking the place 
 corresponding with the entrance. 
 In the E. and W. walls are like 
 recesses. The garde-robes are in 
 the sides of two of the recesses. In 
 the N.W. angle there is a cell 
 with a fireplace in it : 1 the captain's 
 cabin/ suggests the present ' con- 
 stable of the Tower.' The vestibule, in 
 the smaller tower, is a noble building 
 lighted by three double lights, which 
 have semicircular shafts and arches 
 and the usual bases and scolloped 
 
 caps, within three recesses. A much 
 larger recess encloses the E. win- 
 dow. The great doorway is in 
 good preservation. The arch con- 
 sists of a single order of an unusually 
 beautiful design amid its generally 
 plain surroundings. It consists of 
 four rows of zigzag worked on a single 
 round. The grooves for the portcullis 
 remain. Originally all the openings 
 in the keep were closed with wooden 
 doors inside the portcullis to keep 
 out draughts at night. This door 
 later on gave place to iron gates, of 
 which the staples remain. 
 
 On the second floor was the great 
 hall. Here the curtain wall re- 
 solves itself into a great arcade, a 
 pair of arches on each side of the 
 well-shaft dividing the hall into two 
 parts. Each pair of arches springs 
 from a massive circular pier, and 
 consists of two orders, the upper one 
 a round and the lower one a round 
 and zigzag. A plain round takes 
 the place of the zigzag on the S. 
 side. The caps are square and scol- 
 loped. Between each pier and its 
 responds arcades of smaller arches 
 originally ran, but as they were not 
 bonded into the piers they have 
 almost entirely disappeared. They 
 are coeval with or only slightly 
 later than the great arches. The 
 arches of the fireplaces are orna- 
 mented with two bold rounds and 
 a zigzag between them ; the other 
 numerous openings a plain round 
 and filleted hollow. They commu- 
 nicate with cells built within the 
 thick walls, with the garde-robes 
 and staircases. That over the en- 
 trance doorway communicates with 
 the chapel, which is situated over 
 the vestibule. Access is now gained 
 to the chapel by an opening forced 
 through the wall into the chancel 
 from the staircase. The chancel 
 arch remains whole ; the ceiling of 
 the chancel is a semi-dome ; and on 
 the S. side of the body of the chapel 
 is the priest's cell. The height of 
 the great hall is about 32 ft., and it 
 is divided into two stages. The 
 upper stage stands on a stringcourse 
 
82 
 
 EOUTE 3. — Rochester: cathedral. 
 
 which levels with the abaci of the 
 great arches of the central curtain 
 wall. At this level there is a gal- 
 lery running within the wall right 
 round the keep. 
 
 On the third floor w T ere the state- 
 apartments. They need little de- 
 scription. They have fireplaces as 
 in the stories below. Numerous 
 arches adorned with zigzag admit 
 light across galleries which run 
 round the building, but are stopped 
 here and there by solid walls. The 
 arches of these galleries are turned 
 in tufa, which must have come from 
 some earlier building. 
 
 The roofs have all disappeared, 
 and the marks that remain are in- 
 sufficient to give a clue to the 
 changes that must have been made 
 in them from time to time. 
 
 The battlements at the top illus- 
 trate the mode of warfare in the 
 middle ages. There are five embra- 
 sures on each side. The middle one in 
 each case was originally lower than 
 the others, allowing passage on to 
 the wooden staging (betrache) which 
 was thrown out all round the keep 
 in time of siege. The holes through 
 which were shot the beams which 
 supported the staging are very dis- 
 tinct, as are also the marks of the 
 outer flat roof from which all the 
 operations were conducted. There 
 seem indeed to be marks of more 
 than one such roof. The upper and 
 perhaps later one sloped upwards on 
 each side from the top of the curtain 
 wall along the central line. These 
 arrangements are probably all of 
 them post-Norman, but the nu- 
 merous pigeon-holes in the turrets 
 and under the modern iron railing 
 along the N. side are doubtless 
 original. A fine view is to be got 
 from the battlements (see II. a). 
 
 V. The Cathedral Church of 
 St. Andrew. 
 
 Next to Canterbury, Rochester 
 and London are the oldest sees of 
 the Church of England. They 
 were founded by St. Augustine, a.d. 
 
 604, and formed the first outposts 
 of Christianity beyond Canterbury. 
 The Bishops were missionaries in a 
 heathen country, helped by a band 
 of secular priests. By degrees, and 
 with many vicissitudes of fortune, 
 the Church became established in 
 each of these centres, and spread its 
 influence more or less throughout 
 the diocese. Grants of property 
 being made to the church, the band 
 of priests became an endowed col- 
 lege of secular canons, the advisers 
 and helpers of the bishop who was 
 their head. Their church was at 
 cnce cathedral, collegiate, and paro- 
 chial. The Norman bishop Gundulf 
 replaced the seculars by regulars, 
 establishing here a monastery of 
 Benedictine monks. Thus th e church 
 became cathedral, monastic, and 
 parochial ; but the division between 
 the monastic and parochial was 
 sharper than had been that between 
 the collegiate and the parochial, and 
 in the 15th cent, a separate parish 
 church was built, and the cathedral 
 w T as from that time cathedral and 
 monastic only. The monks soon 
 became much more independent of 
 the bishop, too, than had been the 
 seculars of former times. At the 
 dissolution of the monastery the 
 church once more became that of a 
 body of secular canons, called pre- 
 bendaries (from the prebends with 
 which they were endowed), with a 
 dean at their head, the body col- 
 lectively being the chapter. By the 
 Cathedrals Act of 1840 the number of 
 the prebendaries and the revenues 
 of the dean and chapter were dimi- 
 nished, the surplus being devoted 
 by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners to 
 supply the growing needs of the 
 church in populous places. 
 
 The cathedral may be considered 
 under the following heads : — 
 
 A. Architectural History — (a) Saxon 
 Church ; (b) Early Norman Church ; 
 (c) Later Norman rebuilding ; (d) 
 13th cent, enlargement and rebuild- 
 ing ; (e) Additions and restorations. 
 
 B. Architectural Notes — (a) N. ex- 
 terior with Gundulf 's tower ; {I) 
 
GROUND-PLAN OP ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL. 
 
 A. Nave. 
 
 B» B. Great or Western Transept. 
 
 C. Choir. 
 
 I). Chance], or Sacrarium. 
 
 E. E. Eastern Transept. 
 
 F. Chapel. 
 
 G. St. Edmund's Chapel. 
 
 H. Vestry. 
 
 I. Stairs to Crypt. 
 
 K. Gundulf 's Tower. 
 
 L. Yard. 
 
 M. Chapter. 
 
 N. Font. 
 
 O. West Door. 
 
 P. N. Nave Aisle. 
 
 Q. S. Nave Aisle. 
 
 R. Nave Stalls. 
 
 S. Scott Screen. 
 
 1. Tomb of Bp. Lawrence. 
 
 2. „ Bp. Gilbert de Glanville. 
 
 3. „ Bp. Gundulf. 
 
 4. „ Bp. Inglethorpe. 
 
 6, 7. Tombs of the Lee- Warner Family. 
 
 8. Tomb of Bishop John de Sheppey. 
 
 9. „ Bp. Walter de Merton. 
 
 10. Tomb of St. William. 
 
 11. „ Bp. Lowe. 
 
 12. „ Hamo de Hythe. 
 
 13. „ Bp. John de Bradfield. 
 
 14, 15. Monts. of Lord and Lady Henniker 
 
 16. Watts' Monument. 
 
 17. Dickens' Tablet. 
 
84 EOUTE 3.- — EOCHESTEE : 
 
 CATHEDRAL — HISTOEY. 
 
 W. front ; (c) Nave ; (d) N.W. 
 transept ; (e) S. transept and 
 
 St. Mary's chapel ; (/) Presbytery, 
 transept, and choir ; (g) S. choir 
 aisle; (h) Crypt. C. Chapter- 
 house, &c. 
 
 A. Architectural History, (a) Saxon 
 Church. Bede records the building 
 of a church here by King Ethelbert 
 in 604. Paulinus, who was first Bp. 
 of York, being compelled to flee 
 S., afterwards filled the see of 
 ^Rochester, and was buried in this 
 church. Ythamar, the first bishop 
 of English blood, was also buried 
 here. The church was almost in 
 ruins when the Normans came. 
 The remains of Paulinus were trans- 
 lated into the early Norman church 
 on its completion. The discovery 
 of the eastern parts of the Saxon 
 church, consisting of the founda- 
 tions and parts of the walls of the 
 chancel apse and arch and of the 
 side walls, was made during the 
 under-pinning of the W. front in 
 1889. The mere record of the dis- 
 covery of the remains of what was 
 probably the first church built in 
 England is very interesting 
 
 (b) Early Norman church. Built 
 during the episcopacy of Gundulf, 
 partly by his monks, partly by the 
 parishioners of St. Nicholas. Little 
 of the actual fabric remains — part 
 of the crypt, and part of the S. aisle 
 and wall of the nave ^interior), and 
 part of the N. wall (exterior) — but 
 the whole plan has been recovered. 
 It was cruciform, with very narrow 
 transepts (14 ft. only), a nave of ten 
 bays (including the narrow transept 
 crossing), and a choir of unusual 
 length (owing perhaps to the division 
 of the church between the monks 
 and parishioners), separated from 
 its aisles by solid walls, the aisles 
 running the whole length of the 
 choir, and all ending in a square 
 east end, which was relieved only by 
 a singular rectangular projection 
 
 l The Canterbury churches of St. Augustine 
 were not new buildings, and these remains 
 answer all the demands necessary for identity 
 with the documentary church. 
 
 from the centre just large enough to 
 contain the sacred relics of saints — 
 the embryo eastern chapel. There 
 was no tower at the crossing, but a 
 massive tower stood detached from 
 the main building in the angle 
 formed by the north transept and 
 the choir aisle, and this wa s balanced 
 on the S. side by a tower incor- 
 porated in the building. The de- 
 tached tower was built by Gundulf 
 before the church was begun, pro- 
 ably as a defensive work ; later on 
 it was called the greater bell-tower. 
 It still remains, a ruin. The S. 
 tower, which was called the lesser 
 bell-tower, was removed in the 14th 
 cent., about the time of the raising 
 of the central tower and spire. 
 
 (c) The Second or Later Nor- 
 man Church. — A glance at the 
 present nave shows that it is 12th 
 cent. work. A closer examination 
 reveals that this work was in part a 
 recasing, in part a rebuilding, of 
 the ruder early Norman church. 
 The Norman transepts and choir 
 have gone, but there is no reason to 
 doubt that they would show similar 
 changes. In fact, the later Norman 
 builders seem to have renovated the 
 church throughout, working from 
 E. to W. This work was probably 
 begun by Bp. Ernulf (1 115- 1 124). 
 who as prior of Canterbury and abbot 
 of Peterborough had already proved 
 himself a great builder, circ. 1120, 
 after he had made some progress 
 with the new stone offices for the 
 monks, which formed the most ur- 
 gent need when he became bishop. 
 His diaper mark is to be seen in 
 some re-used fragments taken prob- 
 ably from the choir. The work 
 was doubtless carried on by his 
 successor, John of Canterbury (1125- 
 1 137\ and finished by 1 130, in which 
 year on Ascension Day, the church 
 was dedicated by Archbp. William 
 de Corbeuil in the presence of 
 thirteen bishops. 
 
 (d) The 13th cent, church was an 
 enlargement and rebuilding up by 
 degrees of the old church, the work 
 being carried on from E. to W., and 
 
ROUTE 3. ROCHESTER: CATHEDRAL— GUNDULF ? S TOWER. 85 
 
 finally stopped in the third bay W. 
 of the great crossing. This work 
 was going on from the very begin- 
 ning of the 13th cent, until the 
 early part of the 14th. The E. 
 extension of the choir was doubt- 
 less suggested by the necessity felt 
 for providing a suitable place for 
 the shrine of William of Perth, 
 the martyr and saint of Rochester, 
 who was killed in 1201 (?). The 
 new choir was entered in 1227, and 
 it is said to have been built from the 
 offerings at the shrine of St. William. 
 This work included the remodelling 
 of the two choir aisles. The Early 
 English builders, after a short break, 
 resumed the rebuilding of the 
 church in the new style by raising 
 (circ. 1250) the N.W. transept, which 
 they made one-third of its width 
 wider than its Norman predecessor. 
 The work included the N.W. pier of 
 a central tower. A little later the 
 S. transept was similarly treated, 
 and the tower piers and arches com- 
 pleted. Then two bays of the nave 
 were transformed ; and there the 
 work stopped, perhaps from want of 
 energy or of funds. 
 
 (e) Additions and restorations. 
 • — The only important addition to the 
 church, besides some 14th cent, 
 screens and doorways and windows, 
 is that of the building called St. 
 Mary's chapel, which was made 
 towards the end of the 15th cent. 
 Considerable alterations were made 
 in the nave about the same time : 
 the Norman clerestory was wholly 
 rebuilt, new roofs were added, and 
 a great W. window inserted. No 
 restoration worthy of the name was 
 effected before the time of the well- 
 known architect, Cottingham, who 
 renewed the great W. window, re- 
 built the whole of the exterior face 
 cf the S.E. transept, which was in 
 imminent danger of falling, and 
 rebuilt the central tower. These 
 works were carried out in Bath 
 stone {Box ground) . His tower, which 
 replaced a spire put up on the lines 
 of the original spire in 1740, is not 
 a beautiful object, but Cottingham 
 
 was much hampered in his work by 
 local opinion, or would doubtless 
 have raised something more worthy 
 of his fame, although even in that 
 case it is not likely that he could 
 have satisfied the taste created 
 by present-day knowledge of Gothic 
 architecture. Cottingham, however 
 much he may be maligned, did an 
 enormous amount of work in the 
 way of opening out blocked arches, 
 which cannot be detailed here, but 
 without which it would have been 
 impossible for Sir G. Gilbert Scott 
 to accomplish all he did here be- 
 tween 187 1 and 1877 under the 
 watchful eye of Dean Scott. It in- 
 cluded the renewal of the stone- 
 work, in Chilmark Stone, of the 
 exterior of the choir and transepts, 
 the under-pinning of almost the 
 whole church, the raising of the 
 transept roofs to their original pitch, 
 and the restoration of the fittings of 
 the choir and presbytery. The re- 
 storation now in progress (1892 , 
 under Mr. Pearson, has dealt with 
 the W. front, and it is hoped that 
 it will include the raising of the E. 
 roofs, the repair of the nave walls and 
 parapets, and other necessary work 
 on the outside, as well as a good deal 
 that remains to be done 011 the in- 
 side of the buildiim. 
 
 B. Architectural Notes. — (a) The N. 
 exterior with Gundulf s tower. 
 Gundulf was consecrated to the See 
 of Rochester in 1077, and the first 
 work he accomplished here seems to 
 have been the building of a keep, 
 about fifty yards E. of the old Saxon 
 Church. Mr. Irvine thinks, from 
 what he saw during the under- 
 pinning of the S. transept, that the 
 tower was originally built on the 
 earthworks which then formed the 
 E. boundary of the city. The ruins 
 of the tower stand near to the 
 Deanery Gate, in the angle formed 
 by the N. transept and N. aisle of 
 the choir. The great buttresses 
 attached to its N.E. angle are 13th 
 century work. The tower was dis- 
 mantled early in the present 
 century. The E. end of the choir 
 
86 EOUTE 3. ROCHESTER : 
 
 CATHEDRAL — THE NAVE. 
 
 and the facade of the E. transept 
 are remarkable for the massive 
 corner turrets — a mark of early 
 date. They were designed for 
 angle-shafts ; but the design was 
 changed. The change is also seen 
 in the absurdly small pinnacles. 
 
 (6) The West Front is a grand 
 design, of date about 1125-30, sadly 
 mutilated by neglect and unskilful 
 restoration. The present restoration 
 essays to make atonement. The 
 design is almost unique, the front 
 of St. David's being the only one 
 anything like it, and that is carried 
 out in a very different way. Its 
 peculiarity consists in the four 
 turrets placed at the end of the 
 nave arcades and aisle walls. Ori- 
 ginally the side turrets were carried 
 up nearly as high as the smaller 
 central turrets. The N. one was 
 rebuilt to half its original height 
 about 100 years ago, and the S. one 
 lopped off about the same time. 
 This design was a natural develop- 
 ment of the features of the early 
 Norman front, the foundations of 
 which underlie the later front. In 
 place of the great window the mind 
 must imagine the arcades of the 
 turrets carried right across in all 
 three stages, two lights appearing 
 in each of the two lower stages. 
 The upper stage was recessed, and 
 above it rose the pointed gable con- 
 taining probably a circular window 
 to give light between the flat ceiling 
 and the pointed roof. The Sculpture 
 of the front is worth careful study, 
 being very advanced for its date, 
 and quite Byzantine in character. 
 It is like the later work at Bar- 
 freston, and probably by the same 
 hand. It should be compared with 
 the sculpture of the chapter-house, 
 which is undoubtedly Ernulf s, and 
 of slightly earlier date. The W. 
 doorway is very rich. The figures 
 on two of the shafts represent 
 Henry I. and his Queen Maud. On 
 the tympanum is sculptured a 
 figure of Our Lord, enclosed in the 
 vescica piscis, and surrounded by the 
 emblems of the four evangelists. 
 
 The Lintel is curiously joggled, and 
 on it are eleven figures supposed to 
 be apostles. 
 
 (c) The USTave (circ. 11 25) is a 
 rich example of later Norman work 
 of early date. The piers show great 
 variety of design. The arches are 
 of two orders, the lower one plain, 
 the upper a zigzag. Here again the 
 design is a development of the early- 
 Norman, the arches of which are 
 intact, but covered with plaster, as 
 seen from the S. aisle. A small 
 portion of the early Norman wall 
 also may be seen in that aisle. The 
 piers doubtless encase the cores of 
 their early Norman predecessors. 
 Obs. some allegorical monuments in 
 the same aisle, including those to 
 Lord and Lady Henniker (1803, 
 1792). There is no triforium or 
 blind stage. The aisles of the early 
 Norman church were probably bar- 
 rel-vaulted, or intended to be so, 
 and this accounts for the internal 
 pilaster buttresses, best seen at the 
 E. end of the N. aisle : they are 
 later-Norman encasements of the 
 early Norman strips. In the ab- 
 sence of a triforium, a gallery runs 
 along within the wall and arches of 
 the second stage. Its small arches 
 are pointed— an early instance of 
 the pointed arch. The arcade in 
 this stage is very rich : a large arch 
 encloses two smaller arches in each 
 bay. The tympanum is enriched 
 with diaper work, inserted at a date 
 slightly later than that of the con- 
 structive work. Towards the E. end 
 obs. the junction of the pointed 
 rebuilding with the Norman nave, 
 where there is a Dec. cap of foliage 
 with square abacus. In effecting 
 this junction the Dec. builders found 
 themselves compelled to rebuild one 
 bay of the second stage in the Nor- 
 man style, and this they did very 
 successfully. Their work may be 
 distinguished by the colour of their 
 stone — the green firestone — which 
 contrasts strongly with the light- 
 coloured Norman Caen-stcne. In 
 the last two piers of the nave some 
 of the dark-coloured shafts do not 
 
ROUTE 3. — ROCHESTER: CATHEDRAL — PRESBYTERY. 87 
 
 reach the ground, and there are 
 masses of masonry attached to the 
 piers on the W. side. These features 
 are the signs of the rood-loft which 
 once ran across the nave at this 
 place, and under which was the 
 parish altar of St. Nicholas (see p. 
 78). The position of this rood- 
 loft accounts for the former plain- 
 ness of the W. face of the pulpitum 
 at the top of the steps leading into 
 the choir. This has lately been 
 adorned with canopied niches and 
 statues as a memorial to the late 
 Dean Scott. *>J< In honoremDmi nri 
 IHV.XPI piam memoriam Roberti 
 Scott S.T.P. Coll. Baliolensis quon- 
 dam magistri et hujus ecclesiae 
 postea annos Decani Lingua Graeca 
 eruditissimi verbi dei et bonorum 
 ecclesiae fldelis di^pensatoris rei 
 divinae cultoris assidui viri docti 
 simul et urbani civis amici collega? 
 hanc parietem ornandam curaverunt 
 obiit MDCCCLXXXVII ^ ' The sta- 
 tues represent (from N. to S.") St 
 Andrew, patron saint; KingEthel- 
 bert, founder ; Justus, first bp. ; 
 Paulinus, third bp., also first bp. 
 of York ; Gundulf, Norman foun- 
 der ; "William de Hoo, sacrist and 
 builder of choir (before 1227"), after- 
 wards prior (1239) ; Walter de 
 Merton, bp. (1274), Lord High 
 Chancellor ; John Fisher, bp., 
 Chancellor of Cambridge university, 
 and martyr (1535). 
 
 The massive parallelogrammic 
 ceiling above the crossing is Cot- 
 tingham's work (1826 s ). The Deco- 
 rated builders intended to vault the 
 aisle of the nave. In the mass of 
 masonry attached to the N.W. tower- 
 pier are many Norman stones which 
 came from the destroyed parts of the 
 later-Norman church. 
 
 (d) The N.W. transept. This is 
 a good example of late E. E. (1250). 
 In the altar-recess on E. side may be 
 seen the only instance in the church 
 of the typical foliated cap of this 
 style. The details throughout are 
 late, except the lancet windows, 
 which in many buildings of this 
 date had given place to geometrical 
 
 tracery, as at Salisbury. The differ- 
 ence between the clerestories of 
 1220 and 1250 may be seen on the E. 
 side. The great arch into the choir- 
 aisle and the bay of the clerestory 
 above it belong to the earlier date. 
 The aisle shows the width of the 
 earlier Norman aisles. The vault- 
 ing of the transept is a curious 
 specimen of a hexpartite vault, with 
 the addition of a longitudinal rib. 
 Obs. in N. choir aisle monu- 
 ments of bp. Haymo de Heythe 
 (1352) and Wm. Streaton and wife 
 (1609). 
 
 (e) S. transept and St. Mary's 
 Chapel. This transept is early 
 Dec, circ. 1280. Its clerestories, E. 
 and W., show the early attempts at 
 tracery, not very advanced for the 
 date. It is an interesting example 
 of re-casting for ritual purposes. 
 Soon after its erection it was deter- 
 mined to place here the altar of Our 
 Lady, and the two arches of the E. 
 side were made into one larger one, 
 and the wall above painted. Signs 
 of the painting remain. About a 
 century later a want of more room 
 was felt, so the W. wall was pierced 
 and a nave added. This is now 
 called St. Mary's Chapel. The 
 transept contains a bust of Sir 
 Richard Head (1689), Grinling 
 Gibbons, and a curious monument 
 to Richard Watts (1736 ; died 
 1579), of Satis House, the benefactor 
 of Rochester and hater of proctors. 
 
 ( f) Presbytery, transepts and 
 Choir (1201-1227). Built from E. 
 to W. A slight break in the work 
 occurs between the crossing and the 
 W. arm or choir proper. It is 
 marked by slight diiference in style 
 both of masonry and mouldings. 
 The earlier parts, i. e. the presby- 
 tery and transepts, are remarkable 
 for the thickness of the piers and 
 walls and for the early character of 
 some of the mouldings. Notice, for 
 instance, the billet-mould in the 
 hoods of the arches. This is really 
 a Norman moulding. Obs. also 
 tbe absence of aisles, except on the 
 E. side of each transept. Hence, 
 
88 BOUTE 3. — ROCHESTER! CATHEDRAL — S. TRANSEPT. 
 
 there is no triforium. The vault is 
 an excellent example of the some- 
 what rare sexpartite design. It oc- 
 curs in earlier work, as at Canter- 
 bury, but is very uncommon later 
 than the 12 th cent. The whole of 
 the crossing seems to have heeled 
 over southwards, and in the S. 
 transept there is a remarkable dis- 
 placement of the vertical lines. 
 This has been going on more or less 
 ever since, it was built. The clere- 
 story and vault were evidently taken 
 down and reset in the 14th cent. 
 Two of the vaulting ribs belong to 
 that date. At the same time all the 
 arches of the E. and W. walls were 
 blocked up. Cottingham opened 
 out those on the E., and he refaced 
 the whole of the transept externally. 
 His method was peculiar, for he cut 
 back the S. front to make it perpen- 
 dicular without touching the inner 
 face of the same wall. Note the 
 effect in the lines of the windows. 
 Cottingham also restored the beau- 
 tiful Decorated doorway in the 
 S. transept, and did it carefully and 
 successfully, except for that bishop's 
 head which by mistake he placed 
 upon a body clothed in the flowing 
 robes of a female. The allegory of 
 the sculpture is said to represent 
 the Jewish and Christian churches, 
 and, above, the pure spirit being 
 borne to heaven. 
 
 The peculiar feature of the choir 
 is the solid wall on each side. The 
 Norman church had solid walls 
 here, but they ran further eastward, 
 in fact almost to the line of the 
 present step up into the presbytery. 
 The E. E. presbytery and transepts 
 were built round the square E. end 
 of the Norman church, and then the 
 part of the latter so enclosed was 
 pulled down. But the W. part of 
 the Norman choir was left, and its 
 solid walls were recased by the 
 E. E. builders. The original E. E. 
 intention was to have a wall arcade 
 in the lower stage like that higher 
 up, but the design gave place to a 
 flat surface suitable for painting. 
 The lions and fleur-de-lys are later, 
 
 of course. There is an original bit 
 of 13th cent, painting opposite the 
 throne : the queen of fortune with 
 her wheel — notice the difference in 
 the dresses of the figures on the 
 wheel. There was only one row of 
 seats along the walls — the present 
 miserere stalls are a good restora- 
 tion — and in front of them was a 
 low bench to support the worship- 
 pers when supra formas. The bench 
 is still here, and carries modern 
 standard book-rests. The monks 
 had no books other than their big 
 music-books, and these were placed 
 on a double book-desk in the 
 centre of the choir. When a Psalm 
 was to be sung, the monks flocked 
 out of the stalls and gathered round 
 the music-books ; and when it was 
 finished they returned to their 
 stalls. When the Reformation came 
 and with it the use of prayer-books, 
 desks were found necessary, and 
 then the low benches were enclosed 
 in panels to support the desks. This 
 is how Sir G. G. Scott found them, 
 and he exposed the old benches and 
 used the panelling to make the 
 desks in front of them — an excellent 
 restoration and adaptation. 
 
 The S. transept in those old days 
 was doubtless screened off and used 
 as a lobby by the monks. The N. 
 transept was also screened off, and 
 in the centre of it was the shrine of 
 St. "William of Perth (see ante). 
 The E. aisle is called St. John's 
 Chapel, and at one time, though 
 not for long, it seems likely that the 
 original Lady Chapel was here. 
 Later this altar was moved to the 
 S.W. transept. The shrine of St. 
 William has altogether disappeared, 
 unless the long plain slab now in St. 
 John's Chapel formed some portion 
 of it. All the glass in the church is 
 modern. Many of the windows have 
 been put up to the memory of Royal 
 Engineers. 
 
 There are some good monuments. 
 In the N. transept, going from W. 
 to E. : an Elizabethan effigy of Bp. 
 Walter de Merton, founder of 
 Merton Coll., Oxford ; the original 
 
ROUTE 3. ROCHESTER : BRIDGE. 
 
 89 
 
 monument to the same bishop (died 
 1277) restored — nothing original; 
 tomb of a prior unknown, with ele- 
 gant early fresco behind. In St. 
 John's Chapel : Bp. John Lowe 
 (1467), a remarkable tomb, and three 
 17th cent, monuments to the Warner 
 family. In the presbytery, N. aisle : 
 Bp. John de Sheppey (1360), dis- 
 covered in 1825, walled up, painting 
 original — vested in alb with apparels 
 ( no stole shown ! ), dalmatic, chasu ble, 
 and maniple, with sandals, episcopal 
 gloves and ring, mitre, and staff with 
 napkin ; Bp. Gilbert de Glanville 
 (?) (1214) ; Bp. Lawrence de St. 
 Martin (1274). On the S. side, from 
 E. to W. : plain slab assigned to 
 Gundulf (1108) ; Bp. Thomas de 
 Inglethorpe (1291). In the S. 
 transept an unknown tomb. The 
 small round-headed doorways on 
 each side of it are not Norman. 
 
 (g) S. Choir aisle. (Commonly 
 called St. Edmund's Chapel.) This 
 is an interesting part of the building, 
 but too intricate to describe fully 
 here. Suffice to say, the narrow 
 Norman aisle was remodelled first in 
 E. E. times (1227), and the Norman 
 tower which stood in the angle 
 formed by the aisle and transept 
 was finally pulled down in the 14th 
 cent. It was this tower's existence 
 which accounts for the curious E. E. 
 jamb which now carries nothing. 
 The mass of masonry at the top of 
 the steps is an internal buttress, 
 rendered necessary by the difficulty 
 of throwing a flying buttress across 
 so great a width. The tomb is sup- 
 posed to be that of Bp. John de 
 Bradfield : the canopy suits the 
 date, but the effigy looks earlier. 
 The singular wooden roof should be 
 remarked (14th cent.). The original 
 intention was to vault the whole 
 space with a central pillar in the 
 middle of it. 
 
 Qi) The Crypt. This is one of 
 the finest crypts in England. The 
 two W. bays, now filled with organ 
 bellows, are Gundulf s work (nth 
 century), and should be studied. 
 The material is tufa, excepting the 
 
 monolithic shafts and their bases and 
 caps, which are oolite of some kind. 
 Obs. the quadripartite vaulting, with 
 no ribs, and its groins pinched 
 down to emphasize the lines. The 
 rest of the crypt is E. E. of early date. 
 Obs. the great variety of spans. 
 The Sussex marble, composed of 
 large Paludince, may be easily ex- 
 amined in the stringcourses. There 
 are some interesting graffiti or wall- 
 seratchings. One is of a .bishop in 
 alb, chasuble, and mitre, the right 
 hand raised in blessing, the left 
 grasping the staff. Another shows 
 a half figure of our Lord with cruci- 
 form nimbus, holding the chalice 
 and paten in hands extended, and on 
 the breast two heads, semi-profile, 
 looking towards each other. This 
 graffito occurs many times in the ca- 
 thedral. Date, 13th cent. The many 
 fragments of all ages deposited in the 
 crypt defy notice here. 
 
 C. The Chapter-house. The old 
 cloister garth is now the garden 
 attached to one of the canonries. and 
 can only be seen by special favour. 
 The front of the chapter-house (1215- 
 25) is in good preservation, and con- 
 tains remarkable carving for its date. 
 Above the central arch notice Er- 
 nulf's diaper, found also in his work 
 at Canterbury. The dormitory lay 
 on the E. side of the cloister, beyond 
 the arcaded wall which remains. 
 Some of the responds of the under- 
 croft have been opened out. The 
 refectory or fratery doorway 
 (1225), in excellent preservation, is 
 behind the canon's house. The 
 choir school fills the site of the 
 fratery. 
 
 [Rochester Bridge, by which 
 we pass into the city, is parallel 
 to the bridges of the two rail- 
 ways. A wooden bridge of un- 
 certain antiquity, defended by a 
 wooden tower and strong gates at 
 its E. or Rochester end, continued 
 in use until the 15th year of 
 Rich. II., when a bridge of stone, 
 one of the best and strongest struc- 
 tures of the time, was founded by 
 Sir Robert Knolles and Sir John de 
 
90 
 
 ROUTE 3. — ROCHESTER — COBHAM. 
 
 Cobham, each of whom had acquired 
 great wealth during the French wars 
 of Edw. III., for the avowed purpose 
 of facilitating military operations 
 against our 1 natural enemies/ Both 
 of these bridges were kept in repair 
 by a customary tax levied on nearly 
 all the parishes in this part of Kent. 
 The wooden bridge occupied the site 
 of the present iron one ; and in con- 
 structing this latter a great quantity 
 of elm or oaken piles, shod with iron, 
 the foundations of the older work, 
 were drawn from the bed of the 
 river ; as much as 66o cubic feet of 
 sound timber being thus recovered. 
 The stone bridge, about 40 yards 
 nearer the castle, had 11 arches, and 
 was crested with an iron railing, 
 worked at the foundry of Mayfield in 
 Sussex, and given by Abp. Warham, 
 At the E. end was originally a way- 
 side chantry, founded by Sir J ohn de 
 Cobham for the benefit of travellers. 
 
 This bridge, although massive and 
 picturesque, was too narrow and in- 
 convenient for the wants of modern 
 traffic ; and the foundations of the 
 present structure, occupying as 
 nearly as possible the site of the first 
 wooden bridge, were laid by Messrs. 
 Fox and Henderson in 1850. The 
 bases on which the four piers rest are 
 formed of clusters of iron cylinders, 
 sunk below the bed of the river as 
 far as the hard chalk, and filled with 
 a concrete which hardens under 
 water. These cylinders rest on each 
 other, and are bolted together, thus 
 forming a solid stone pillar coated 
 with iron. They rise to low-water 
 mark, and courses of masonry are 
 carried above them, which support 
 the bridge itself. This is entirely of 
 iron. The centre arch has a span of 
 170 ft. ; the two side-arches 140 each. 
 Toward the Strood end is the 1 swing- 
 bridge/ a section 99 ft. long, which 
 turns on a pivot, leaving an open 
 ship-canal 50 ft. in width. The ma- 
 chinery here employed should be 
 carefully examined. The entire 
 weight to be moved is upwards of 
 200 tons, yet the bridge is readily 
 swung by two men at a capstan. 
 
 The destruction of the massive old 
 bridge above was commenced in 
 1856, under the care of officers of the 
 Royal Engineers. Many illustrious 
 personages had crossed it during its 
 long life of active service ; and its 
 career was fitly closed by the passage 
 of Queen Victoria, who in the autumn 
 of 1856 more than once passed over 
 it on her way to visit the wounded 
 troops from the Crimea, at Fort Pitt 
 and Brompton. Some of the mate- 
 rials have been used in the formation 
 of an esplanade on the E. bank of 
 the river.] 
 
 (a) The excursion of most interest 
 to be made from Rochester is that to 
 
 Cobham Hall (Earl of Darnley), 
 4 m., which, together with Cobham 
 Church, will amply repay the 
 labours of the tourist, who from 
 here may visit the churches of 
 Shorne and Chalk ; and return to 
 Rochester by Gad's Hill. 
 
 The Walk from Rochester (through 
 the woods of the park) is a very 
 pleasant one. Visitors from London 
 should take an early train to Graves- 
 end, and drive thence by Shorne to 
 Cobham. The nearest road is, how- 
 ever, by Thong. 
 
 The house and picture-gallery are 
 open only on Fridays. Cards of ad- 
 mission are issued, which can be 
 bought at Cobham, or at Rochester 
 or Gravesend. is. each is charged 
 for these cards, an arrangement 
 which obviates all fees to the house- 
 keeper. The money thus realised 
 is bestowed on the Dispensaries at 
 Gravesend and Rochester. This 
 plan is an excellent one, and de- 
 serves to be generally imitated. 
 
 Cobham was the principal resi- 
 dence of the family of the same 
 name before the first year of King 
 John. They were the great lords of 
 all this district ; frequently Sheriffs 
 of Kent, and Constables of Rochester 
 Castle ; until Sir John de Cobham, 
 the builder of Rochester Bridge and 
 founder of the College here, died, 
 toward the end of the 14th cent., 
 leaving as the heiress of all his 
 
ROUTE 3. — COBHAM. 
 
 91 
 
 honours an only grand-daughter, 
 Joan De la Pole. This lady dis- 
 posed of five husbands ; one of whom 
 was the famous Sir John Oldcastle, 
 who assumed the title of Lord Cob- 
 ham in right of his wife. By her 
 second husband she left an only 
 daughter, Joan, who became heiress 
 in her turn. Lady Joan married 
 Sir Thomas Brooke of Somersetshire, 
 by whom she had a family of ten 
 eons; and the estates of Cobham 
 continued in the house of BrOoke 
 until the attainder of Henry Lord 
 Cobham in the first year of James I., 
 when the whole of the confiscated 
 estates were granted by the Crown 
 to Lodowick Stewart, Duke of Len- 
 nox. Through his descendant, Lady 
 Catherine O'Brien, they passed to 
 Lord Clifton and Cornbury ; and on 
 his death in 17 13 to his heiress, 
 Lady Theodosia Hyde, whose hus- 
 band, John Bligh, Esq., was created 
 Earl of Darnley in 1725. His re- 
 presentatives have continued Lords 
 of Cobham. 
 
 Cobham has entertained the usual 
 allowance of royal guests. Eliza- 
 beth lodged here for some time on 
 one of her progresses ; and Charles 
 I. and Henrietta Maria, after their 
 marriage at Canterbury, slept here 
 on their way to London ; the royal 
 pair finding ' all the highways 
 strewed with roses, and all manner 
 of sweet flowers/ There was 110 
 sign then of the evil days in store, 
 when Colonel Sands's troopers (1643) 
 pillaged the Hall, and sent off five 
 waggons loaded with spoil to Lon- 
 don. 
 
 The Hall itself stands toward the 
 centre of the Park, on low ground 
 encircled by wooded hills, toward 
 which avenues of stately oak, elm, 
 and lime trees extend themselves in 
 long vistas. It is approached by a 
 Tudor gateway on the N. side, and 
 consists of a centre and two wings ; 
 the mass of the house being of 
 brick and Elizabethan (1582-94), 
 the work of Sir William Brooke, 
 Lord Cobham ; and the remainder, 
 including the centre, additions by 
 [Kent.'] 
 
 Inigo Jones during the regime of 
 the Stewarts, Dukes of Lennox. 
 The two very distinct styles har- 
 monize but indifferently. ' Whilst 
 the wings preserve the charac- 
 teristics of the later Tudor style — 
 projecting mullioned windows, octa- 
 gonal turrets, quaintly-carved cor- 
 nices, and ornamented doorways — 
 Jones's front is a plain facade, with 
 Corinthian pilasters. But these in- 
 congruities are not perceptible from 
 the high road, and do not interfere 
 with the general outlines of the 
 structure, which are those of a half 
 H. The southern front, though ex- 
 hibiting large portions of the build- 
 ing re-erected by the fourth Earl of 
 Darnley, is eminently Elizabethan 
 in character ; and the rich tones of 
 the red brick, contrasted with the 
 various tinted foliage surrounding 
 the house, offer the finest studies of 
 colour. No class of buildings is half 
 so suggestive of English domestic 
 comfort as the brick structures of the 
 age of Elizabeth. Cobham Hall is 
 essentially of this period, though it 
 has undergone much re-construc- 
 tion/ — {Felix Summerley.) The apart- 
 ments usually shown are, (1) the 
 Great Dining Room, with pa- 
 nelled walls and ceiling ; (2) the 
 Gilt Hall or music room, contain* 
 ing a single and superb Vandyck 
 the portraits of Lord John and 
 Lord Bernard Stewart). The de- 
 corations of this room are temp. 
 Louis XIV. The chimney-piece 
 lias a bas-relief after Guido's 
 Aurora, sculptured by the father 
 of the late Sir Kichard Westmacott. 
 (3) The Portrait Gallery ; and (4) 
 the Picture Gallery, 136 ft. by 24 
 ft., and divided into three open com- 
 partments. 
 
 The superb collection of pictures, 
 formed chiefly by purchases from 
 the Orleans Gallery, and by that of 
 the Vetturi Gallery from Venice, is 
 the great glory of Cobham. These 
 are scattered throughout the apart- 
 ments, the finest being in the Pic- 
 ture Gallery. Taking Dr. Waagen's 
 arrangement of them under the 
 
 I 
 
92 
 
 ROUTE 3. — COBHAM — PICTURE - GALLERY. 
 
 different schools, of which those of 
 Venice and the Netherlands are best 
 represented here, the following pic- 
 tures should be especially noticed. 
 Those marked (E) are in Elizabeth's 
 room. 
 
 School of Venice. — Titian : (E) 
 The Rape of Europa, a celebrated 
 picture, and perhaps the finest in 
 the collection. In the left corner 
 is the artist's signature. ' The action 
 of the Europa is very animated ; 
 the landscape very poetical. The 
 equally spirited and broad treat- 
 ment bespeaks the later time of the 
 master, in which we detect, in some 
 respects, the influence of Paul Vero- 
 nese.' — {Waagen.) (Orleans Gallery, 
 and said to have belonged to 
 Charles L, though not in Virtue's 
 Catalogue. There is a bad copy of 
 this picture at Dulwich.) Id. : (E) 
 Venus and Adonis. The composi- 
 tion nearly the same as the picture 
 in the National Gallery. ' The 
 Cobham version was engraved as 
 early as 1610 by Ralph Sadlier.' 
 —(F.S.) Id, : A Christ, half-length. 
 'Of noble character, and of extra- 
 ordinary warmth in the full body 
 of colour.' — (Waagen.) Id. : A male 
 portrait, inscribed. Id. : * Por- 
 trait of Ariosto, inscribed. i Sim- 
 plicity, dignity, and grandeur are 
 combined in this picture, which is 
 one of Titian's fine portraits.' — (F.S.) 
 Id, : (E) Danae and the golden 
 shower ; questionable, and proba- 
 bly not Titian's. ' Perfect in colour- 
 ing.' Id. : (E) Venus and Cupid 
 with a mirror (Orleans Gallery). 
 Id. : Portraits of Titian and Don 
 Francesco del Mosaico (a copy, ac- 
 cording to Dr. Waagen). ' Parts of 
 this picture are in a ruinous condi- 
 tion, and the hands are compara- 
 tively unfinished. ' — (F.S.) Giorgione : 
 One picture — Caesar receiving the 
 head of Pompey — is assigned to this 
 painter. Andrea Schiavone : A Flagel- 
 lation. This picture has been given 
 to Titian, but is considered by Dr. 
 Waagen 'a particularly fine and 
 careful work' by Schiavone. Tin- 
 
 toretto : (E) Juno and the infant Her- 
 cules ; the creation of the Milky 
 Way (Orleans Gallery) ; very fine. 
 
 School of Florence. — Carlo Dolce: 
 The Virgin giving the picture of S. 
 Dominic to the Superiors of a Con- 
 vent. A large and careful picture, 
 purchased at Florence, and recently 
 added to the gallery. 
 
 School of Rome. — Sassojerrato : 
 The Madonna in prayer. ' Of warm 
 tone and careful finish/ 
 
 School of Bologna. — Annibale 
 Carracci : (E) The Toilet of Venus. 
 Very good (Orleans Gallery). Guido 
 Reni : (E) Liberality and Modesty ; 
 between them the figure of Cupid. 
 k The heads are pleasing, but of 
 little expression.' 1 Finely drawn 
 and coloured.' — (F. S.) Perhaps the 
 best Guido here. Id. : The Daughter 
 of Herodias with the head of St. 
 John. Id. : St. Francis. Very good. 
 Id. : Head of the repentant Mag- 
 dalen. 'Delicate and beautiful.' 
 Id. : The Massacre of the Innocents. 
 ' Same as the famous picture at Bo- 
 logna, but much darker.' From Sir 
 Joshua Reynolds's collection. Ah 
 bano : Mercury and Apollo with the 
 flocks of Admetus ; the assembly of 
 the Gods above. Carefully painted. 
 Guercino : A Sibyl. Id. : His own 
 portrait. Schidoyie: The Transfigura- 
 tion. Marc Antonio Franceschini : To 
 this painter Dr. Waagen assigns a 
 picture representing the Magdalen 
 reading. It was formerly ascribed 
 to Niccolo Regnari. Caravaggio : 
 Esau selling his birthright. Dome- 
 nico Feti : A family of five persons, 
 one of whom is making lace. 4 A 
 capital picture.' 
 
 School of Naples. — Salvator Rosa f 
 Pythagoras teaching the fishermen. 
 ' This takes a distinguished position 
 among the historical pictures by this 
 master, for the happy arrangement 
 and the characteristic nature of the 
 heads. If the colouring of his figures 
 be deficient in truth, as is usually 
 
ROUTE 3. — COBHAM— PICTURE-GALLERY. 93 
 
 the case, it is nevertheless of great 
 power, and the execution particu- 
 larly spirited/ — (Waagen.) Id.: The 
 Death of Regulus ; well known by 
 Salvator's own etching. Much 
 darkened. ' This vigorous painting 
 of a horrible subject is said to be the 
 chef-d'oeuvre of the master. — (F. S.) 
 Id. : Jason pouring the sleeping charm 
 over the dragon. Id. : The Birth of 
 Orion. Both these pictures are much 
 darkened, but deserve attention. All 
 the Salvators here are alike remark- 
 able for 1 absence of colour, intensity 
 of shadow, and all sorts of unrefined 
 vigour.' Luca Giordano : Adoration 
 of the Shepherds. Painted with 
 his golden brush : he had, say the 
 Italians, three— of gold, silver, and 
 lead. 
 
 Schools of the Netherlands. — 
 Roger van der Weyden the elder : Portrait 
 of a Reformer in a fur cap and brown 
 furred dress. 'An admirable por- 
 trait/ (In the portrait gallery). 
 This is usually but inaccurately 
 called a portrait of Luther. Rubens : 
 Queen Tomyris dipping the head of 
 Cyrus into a vessel of human blood 
 (Orleans Gallery). 1 This celebrated 
 composition of 17 figures as large as 
 life, the best engraving of which is 
 by Paulus Pontius, is a splendid 
 specimen of the peculiar manner in 
 which Rubens treated such a sub- 
 ject/ — {Waagen.) It is placed at the 
 end of the picture-gallery. Id, : 
 Children blowing soap-bubbles. ' Of 
 wonderful charm of nature/ Id, : A 
 Lion Hunt. A very spirited sketch. 
 Id. : Triumphal Entry of Henry IV. 
 after the battle of Ivry. Sketch for 
 the great picture in Florence. An- 
 drea Mantegna's procession at Hamp- 
 ton Court has here been much 
 imitated by Rubens. Id. : Jupiter 
 abandoning the world to Venus and 
 Cupid. A very spirited sketch. 
 
 The collection contains other pic- 
 tures attributed to Rubens, but only 
 those already mentioned are proba- 
 bly by the hand of the great master. 
 /A Wild Boar Hunt' is evidently 
 finished by his pupils. 
 
 Vandyck : The Duke of Lennox. 
 A full-length figure, as a shepherd, 
 holding a crook. On a rock are the 
 words 4 Me firmior amor/ Id. : the 
 same Duke, in black, his right hand 
 resting on the head of a large hound. 
 Id. : Lord Bernard and Lord John 
 Stuart, sons of the Duke of Lennox. 
 Whole-length. A repetition of Earl 
 De Grey's picture, but an original, 
 and very beautiful. Lord John fell 
 in the battle of Brandene, 1644, and 
 Lord Bernard the next year in an 
 engagement near Chester. Both 
 were interred in the cathedral at 
 Oxford. Jordaens : A Girl feeding a 
 Parrot. The colouring very fine. 
 Snyder s : A Stag Hunt. 1 Spirited 
 and admirable/ (On the staircase ; 
 as are the next two). Id. : Land- 
 scape, with the fable of the hare and 
 the tortoise. 1 Of singular freshness 
 of tone/ Id. : Studies for heads of 
 stags. Sir Peter Lely : Dorothea Count- 
 ess of Sunderland (Waller's Sacha- 
 rissa). One of his best portraits. 
 Sir G. Kneller : Queen Anne. Id. : 
 Theodosia Hyde, daughter of the 
 Earl of Clarendon, who brought 
 the estate into the possession of 
 the Darnleys, her husband, John 
 Bligh, Esq., having been created the 
 first Earl. Id. : Mary of Modena, 
 Queen of James II. Mark Garrard ('/): 
 Queen Elizabeth, in a white em- 
 broidered dress, with pearl coronet 
 and necklace. 
 
 School of France. — Janet: Por- 
 trait of the Due d'Alencon, son of 
 Henry II., in a white dress. Id.(?): 
 Mary Queen of Scots, a very curious 
 picture. Mary, dressed in embossed 
 black velvet, holds a crucifix in her 
 right hand, and a book in her 
 left. Below her right hand are the 
 words i Aula Fodringhamy,' and 
 beneath is a representation of her 
 execution. There is either a dupli- 
 cate or copy of this picture at 
 Windsor. Another full-length por- 
 trait of Mary is preserved at Cobham , 
 not very flattering to her beauty. 
 Nicholas Poussin : (E) A Nymph on 
 the shoulders of a Satyr. Id. : (E) 
 
 1 2 
 
94 
 
 ROUTE 3. — COBHAM — THE CHURCH. 
 
 Cupid, a Nymph, and Satyr. Better 
 in colour than the former picture. 
 Id. : Sketch of Bacchanalian Chil- 
 dren. Id. : The Flight of Pyrrhus. 
 A repetition of the picture in the 
 Louvre, but doubtful. ' Carefully 
 and equally finished in all parts/ — 
 F. S. Lebrun : The Fight of the Cen- 
 taurs and Lapitha3. ' An excellent 
 and remarkable picture of the 
 master. ' — {Waagen. ) 
 
 School of Spain. — Juan Pantoja 
 de la Cruz (court painter of end of 
 Philip II. and beginning of Philip 
 III.) : Portraits of a Prince and 
 Princess, called the Archdukes 
 Albert and Isabella ; but whether 
 these are the persons represented 
 seems uncertain. The picture is in- 
 scribed. There is a duplicate of the 
 Prince's portrait by the same painter 
 at Hampton Court. 
 
 School of England. — Sir Joshua 
 Reynolds : The Call of Samuel, a well 
 known and very pleasing picture. 
 Id. : Lady Frances Cole, as a child, 
 with a dog. 1 One of the finest 
 pictures of the master. The land- 
 scape of the background is one of 
 the finest specimens of his skill that 
 I know/ — {Waagen.) Id. : Portrait of 
 Mrs. Monk ; very fine. Id. : Count- 
 ess of Clan william ; ' a masterly 
 work/ Gainsborough : Miss M'Gill, 
 daughter of the first Lord Darnley, 
 afterwards Countess of Clanwilliam ; 
 very striking. Id. : an unknown 
 female portrait, ' of great clearness 
 and delicacy of colouring/ 
 
 It is believed that the above cata- 
 logue of the pictures, &c, is generally 
 correct : but, as far as we are aware, 
 no catalogue has ever been published. 
 The visitor must depend upon a MS. 
 catalogue of them which is to be 
 obtained at the Hall. 
 
 In the entrance-hall, remark a 
 large antique bath of red oriental 
 granite, used as a rug-stand. 
 
 The Park of Cobham, which is 
 well varied with hill and dale, is 7 m. 
 in circumference, and nobly wooded. 
 
 It contains a heronry of considerable 
 size, and is amply stocked with deer. 
 Many of the trees are of great age 
 and beauty ; one of the most remark- 
 able being a chestnut, 32 ft. in cir- 
 cumference, called 'the Four Sisters ' 
 from the fact that there are four 
 trunks to it, all proceeding, however, 
 from one stub. This famous tree is 
 about \ m. from the Hall, near a path 
 leading to Knight's Place Farm. An 
 avenue of four rows of lime-trees ex- 
 tends for more than 1000 yards on 
 the S. side of the house, and leads 
 direct to the Sole-street station. On 
 William's Hill, one of the finest 
 points in the park, is the Mausoleum, 
 built in 1783, at a cost of £9000, but 
 never used. It is visible from a 
 considerable distance, but is not too 
 ornamental. 
 
 The Village of Cobham is at 
 the S.W. corner of the- park. The 
 Church amply deserves a visit, the 
 more so as it has been restored under 
 the advice of Sir G-. G-. Scott. The 
 chancel is E. E. ; the rest late Dec. 
 and mainly the work of that Sir 
 John Cobham who founded the 
 College adjoining, and built Roches- 
 ter Bridge, temp. Edw. III. The 
 stalls for the members of the college 
 remain in the choir. The archaeo- 
 logist, however, will find his chief 
 interest in the unrivalled assemblage 
 of Brasses, which to the number of 
 24 cover the floor of the ch. 13 of 
 these, illustrating dress and armour 
 between 1320 and 1529, belong to 
 the families of Brooke and Cobham. 
 11 others commemorate masters of 
 the college. The most important 
 are— Joan de Cobham, c. 1320; John 
 de Cobham, 1354. Sir Thomas de Cobham, 
 1367, and his wife Maude, 1380. Her 
 costume is the sideless 4 cote-hardi ' 
 buttoned down the front ; the head- 
 dress is reticulated. Margerie de Cob" 
 ham, 1375. Remark the reticulation s 
 of the head-dress continued on the 
 shoulders. Sir John de Cobham, en* 
 graved circa 1365, long before his 
 death, the last of the direct race, 
 founder of the college and restorer 
 
ROUTE 3. — COBHAM 
 
 — SHORNE CHURCH. 
 
 95 
 
 of the ch., a figure of which he holds 
 in his hand. Margerie de Cobham his 
 wife, 1395. Ralf de Cobham, Esq., 
 1402, a half effigy, apparently sup- 
 porting the inscription. Reginald de 
 Cobham, 1420, wearing a cope. Sir 
 Reginald Braybrook, husband of Joan 
 Lady Cobham, 1405. Joan Lady Cob- 
 ham, 1433. Sir Thomas Brooke, Lord 
 Cobham, 1 529. Of the masters of the 
 college, the best are — William Tanner, 
 first master, 14 18, and John Sprottle, 
 1498. This grand series of brasses 
 is so interesting and important, that 
 all possible care should be taken to 
 preserve them from injury. They 
 had suffered much from damp and 
 neglect, but they have (1866) been 
 restored by Capt. Brooke, of Ufford, 
 Suffolk, a descendant of the former 
 lords of Cobham. In the chancel is 
 an altar-tomb, elaborately coloured, 
 with effigies of Sir George Brooke, 
 Lord Cobham, Governor of Calais, 
 and his wife, 1558. Smaller effigies 
 are placed at the sides. 
 
 Adjoining the churchyard are the 
 scanty ruins of the Old College or 
 Chantry, and the New College of 
 Cobham, founded after the dissolu- 
 tion. The Chantry for seven priests 
 or chaplains, was founded and richly 
 endowed in 1387 by Sir John de 
 Cobham, who at the same time 
 nearly rebuilt the ch. At the Disso- 
 lution, the site, and all the lands 
 belonging to it, were sold by the 
 king's permission to Sir George 
 Brooke, Lord Cobham. The portions 
 remaining are part of the refectory 
 wall, and a fragment of the N. 
 cloister. In the hall is a fine stone 
 chimney-piece of the date of the 
 founder. 
 
 The New College or almshouse, 
 was raised on the site of the old foun- 
 dation ; part of the ancient buildings 
 being used in the new work. It was 
 founded by Sir William Brooke, 
 Lord Cobham, who died late in 
 Elizabeth's reign ; and forms a 
 quadrangle, containing 20 lodging- 
 rooms and a large hall, lately (1875) 
 restored by the Earl of Darnley. 
 
 Over the gate toward the garden are 
 the founder's arms, with an in- 
 scription. 1 There is a good day's 
 work for a sketcher's pencil on these 
 old buildings, with their ivied arch- 
 ways, dilapidated gables and deep- 
 shadowed interiors.' 
 
 The 'Leather Bottle,' the 1 clean 
 and commodious village alehouse ' 
 to which Mr. Tupman retired from 
 the world, still exists, and affords 
 tolerable accommodation. It was 
 here that Mr. Pickwick made his 
 great antiquarian discovery, rivall- 
 ing the A.D.L.L. of the sage of 
 Monkbarns. If the tourist be dis- 
 posed to try his own luck, he should 
 commence operations on the line of 
 the Watling Street, which is very 
 conspicuous on the N. side of the 
 park. Adjoining it, about \ m. W., 
 is one of the wells called St. Thomas's 
 Waterings, used by the pilgrims on 
 their way to Canterbury. Cobham 
 may be reached from Sole Street 
 Station from which it is 1 m. N. 
 
 1 m. N. beyond Cobham Park is 
 the Church of Shorne, lately re- 
 stored. It is chiefly Dec, and 
 contains the altar-tomb and cross- 
 legged effigy of Sir Henry de Cob- 
 ham, Sheriff of Kent under the first 
 and second Edwards, and called 
 ' Le Uncle,' to distinguish him from 
 his nephew of Cobham. He was 
 lord of Randall, an ancient manor in 
 this parish. Brasses: John Smyth 
 and his wife Marian, 1457. Eleanor 
 Allen, 1583. John Smith 1437. 
 W. Pepys, vicar 1468. The Font 
 (late Dec.) is octangular, and has 
 its compartments filled with sculp- 
 ture representing the Passion, Re- 
 surrection, and Ascension of Our 
 Lord. The Church of Shorne was 
 given by Henry I. to the Monastery 
 of St. Saviour, Bermondsey ; which 
 house retained it until the Dis- 
 solution. 
 
 There is some uncertainty how 
 far 'Maister John Shorne,' or 'Sir 
 John Shorne,' a mediaeval thauma- 
 turgist of great celebrity, but whose 
 
96 
 
 ROUTE 3. — CHALK CHURCH — GAD's HILL. 
 
 history is involved in utter darkness, 
 was connected with this place. 
 Master John had apparently shrines 
 here and at Murston, nearer Graves- 
 end. He was never canonized, and 
 is not called a saint ; his votaries 
 contenting themselves with honour- 
 ing him as 
 
 1 Maister John Shorne, 
 That blessed man born.' 
 
 He had a chapel at Windsor ; and 
 on the rood-screens at Cawston and 
 Gateley, Norfolk, he is represented 
 crowned with a nimbus. Other 
 traditions connect him with North 
 Marston, Bucks, where the chancel 
 is said to have been built with offer- 
 ings at his shrine ; and where he 
 had a well, endowed with great 
 virtues. (See N. and Q. vol. ii.) 
 
 i m. beyond Shorne is Chalk 
 Church (restored) ; to be visited for 
 the sake of its very remarkable porch, 
 above which are two grotesque 
 figures; one of which holds a jug with 
 both hands, and looks upward laugh- 
 ing at a morris-dancer, or tumbler. 
 Strangely placed between these is a 
 niche in which stood an image of 
 the Virgin, to whom the ch. is dedi- 
 cated. The figures are E. E. in date 
 and very curious. The ch. was at 
 an early period attached to the Priory 
 at Rochester ; but in 1327 was ap- 
 propriated to that of Norwich, also 
 Benedictine. 
 
 The tourist may return to Ro- 
 chester (5 m. from Chalk) over 
 Gad's Hill. In again passing the 
 village of Shorne, he should not 
 miss the view from an eminence 
 behind the Crown Inn, adjoining the 
 road, and called the Halfway House. 
 The reaches of the Thames are here 
 well commanded. 
 
 (6) 3 m. from Rochester, on the 
 London road, is Gad's Hill on the 
 top of which is the Sir John Falstaff 
 Inn, where, however, the traveller 
 is more likely to make acquaintance 
 with the familiar creature, small 
 beer, than with the sherris-sack or 
 canaries better loved of the valorous 
 
 knight. The hill itself, an ascent 
 of about 1 m , was so called, like 
 Shooters' Hill, from the frequent 
 robberies committed here by the 
 clerks of St. Nicholas (gads, vaga- 
 bonds ; the great clubs of wood or 
 iron carried by them were also called 
 gads), who, like Robin Hood and 
 Much the Miller's son, came down 
 here 
 
 'To Watling-street, to take a prey.' 
 Thick woods, of which only a tuft 
 is now left at the top of the hill, 
 formerly spread on either side of 
 the road, in which the 1 men in 
 buckram' lay hid for fat franklins 
 of the Weald, rich pilgrims to 
 Canterbury, or for 4 the money of 
 the king's coming down the hill.' 
 Such robberies were more than 
 usually frequent during the latter 
 years of Elizabeth ; and the offenders 
 seem to have been countenanced 
 by not a few of the Kentish magis- 
 trates. Hence perhaps the selection 
 of this place by Shakespeare as the 
 scene of Sir John's exploit. Its evil 
 reputation continued to a much 
 later period. John Clavell, in his 
 i Recantation of an ill-led Life, 1634/ 
 alludes to 
 
 * Gad's Hill, and those 
 Red tops of mountains where good people lose 
 Their ill-kept purses.' 
 
 In 1656 the Danish ambassador was 
 robbed here ; and received a letter 
 the next day from the thieves, who 
 were perhaps nearer Prince Henry's 
 rank than Dick Turpin's — in which 
 they assured him that 'the same 
 necessity that enforc't the Tartars to 
 breake ye wall of China, compelled 
 them to wait on him at Gad's Hill.' 
 A more famous robbery was com- 
 mitted here in 1676 by a man named 
 Nicks, who stopped and pilfered a 
 traveller at 4 in the morning, and 
 at a quarter to 8 the same evening 
 was playing bowls at York. This is 
 perhaps the original version of Dick 
 Turpin's ride. An obelisk on the 
 hill, to the 1., rather interferes with 
 the earlier associations of the spot. 
 It was erected to the memory of a 
 Rochester auctioneer, named Larkins 
 
ItOUTE 3. — FKINDSBURY — CHATHAM. 
 
 97 
 
 — a parish orator and borough 
 Hampden — by his grateful fellow- 
 citizens. 
 
 Gad's Hill has also an illustration 
 of a different character. Gad's Hill 
 Place, a house of red brick, on the 
 S. side of the hill, near the Falstaff 
 Inn, and marked by some dark 
 spreading cedars, was the residence 
 of Dickens, the author of ' Pickwick,' 
 &c, who, at an early period of his 
 literary career, fixed on this house 
 as his desired future home, and died 
 here June 9, 1870. It was pur- 
 chased in 1890 by F. L. Latham, 
 Esq. 
 
 (c) In the district on the 1. bank of 
 the Medway, opposite Rochester, are 
 several churches deserving atten- 
 tion. The following are best visited 
 from Strood : others are more readily 
 reached from the Higham station of 
 the North Kent line ^Rtc. 6). 
 
 ' Frindsbury (seen from the 
 station), the gift of Olfa to Rochester, 
 has a Norm, chancel arch, hagioscope, 
 and low side-window. At Quarry 
 House, in this parish, many Roman 
 remains, statuettes, coins, ornaments, 
 bits of fresco, &c, have been recently 
 found. 
 
 The Church of Hoo (5 m. N. E. 
 
 from Strood) is dedicated to St. Wer- 
 burgh of Mercia, who, although she 
 drove by her prayers the 1 wild geese ' 
 from her fields at Weedon, in North- 
 amptonshire, has certainly not ex- 
 pelled them from Hoo. Wild fowl 
 of all kinds abound in the marshes 
 here during the winter. The spire 
 of the ch., which is Dec, serves as 
 a landmark, and is seen, 1., on its 
 comparatively high ground (Hou — 
 Anglo-Saxon, a hill), in descending 
 the Medway. The church contains 
 some brasses — the most important 
 that of Rich. Bayley, vicar, 1412. 
 
 The Churches of High Halsto w, 
 St. Mary, and All Hallows, dis- 
 tant 5, 7, and 9 m. from Strood, 
 were originally chapelries attached 
 
 to Hoo ; and although difficult of 
 access, will repay examination. 
 Churches belonging to Hoo are 
 noticed in Domesday Book, which 
 were probably in these parishes. 
 Stoke, seen from the river, 4 m. 
 N.E. of Hoo, is Perp. ; it contains 
 no monuments of interest except a 
 font possibly Norman. 
 
 The little Church of St. James 
 in the Isle of Grain, at the ex- 
 tremity of the headland, will be 
 best visited from Sheerness. (Rte. 
 
 130 
 
 Chatham to Dover Stat. 
 
 From Rochester the line proceeds 
 (through the town) to 
 
 33 J m. Chatham (close to the 
 station is a statue of Lieut. Waghom, 
 founder of the outward route to 
 India: who was born here \ Hence 
 through two tunnels we reach 
 
 36 m. New Brompton Stat.). 
 The old town and the dockyard of 
 Chatham lie on the 1. of the line, but 
 some modern additions (as Troy Town) 
 are to the rt. ; together they form a 
 town of considerable extent, the 
 parts the most remote from the river 
 being generally the most pleasant. 
 
 CHATHAM proper* (Cartta'a 
 ham or home) is mainly a long, 
 narrow street, parallel with the 
 Medway. Numerous Roman re- 
 mains have been found here; but 
 the importance of Chatham was due 
 originally to its dockyard, esta- 
 blished here by Elizabeth, and pro- 
 nounced by Camden 'the best- 
 appointed arsenal the sun ever saw.' 
 This had become of considerable 
 extent when the Dutch made their 
 famous attack here in 1667. It has 
 been much enlarged from time to 
 time, and is now one of the most 
 important establishments in the 
 kingdom. The old dockyard, cover- 
 ing 100 acres, has received its great- 
 est extension since i860. These new 
 works occupy the site of what was 
 formerly St. Mary's Creek and St. 
 Mary's Island, an area of about 400 
 
98 
 
 ROUTE 3. — CHATHAM DOCKYARD. 
 
 acres. They were commenced in 
 1856, but not prosecuted with much 
 vigour until 1864. They have now 
 a river frontage of more than 3 m. 
 and 3000 workmen are constantly 
 employed. These extensive works 
 have been executed partly by con- 
 tract, but chiefly by convict labour. 
 They consist of three large basins, 
 connected together by caisson gates, 
 with an entrance from the river at 
 Upnor Reach at one end, and two 
 lock entrances at Gillingham Reach 
 at the other end of the basins. The 
 three basins are called (1) the Repair- 
 ing Basin, of 21 acres, into which 
 vessels are first taken for such repairs 
 as may be necessary ; (2) the middle 
 or Factory Basin, of 20 acres, where 
 engines and boilers are received ; and 
 (3) the Fitting-out Basin, of 28 
 acres, where the v r essels receive their 
 guns, stores, coal, &c„ being fitted 
 out ready for sea. A vessel is thus 
 launched from the old dockyard, is 
 received into each basin in turn, 
 and when equipped passes out 
 through the Gillingham entrance. 
 The two locks connecting the Fit- 
 ting-out Basin with Gillingham 
 Reach can be converted, if required, 
 into dry docks capable of holding 
 the largest vessels (these locks are 
 not yet completed). 
 
 Opening into the Repairing 
 Basin on the south side are four dry 
 docks for the repair, &c, of ships of the 
 largest size ; these are 470 it. long 
 and 41 ft. deep. Powerful sheers 
 and cranes are placed along the 
 sides of the basins ; the largest of 
 these sheers is 140 ft. high, has been 
 tested to lift 100 tons, and is one of 
 the most powerful of its kind ever 
 constructed. A large pumping sta- 
 tion has been built near the Re- 
 pairing Basin, for containing the 
 engines, boilers, and machinery 
 used for pumping the water from 
 out of the docks, and for raising the 
 level of the water in the basins (if 
 required) ; hydraulic machinery is 
 also used for working the capstans, 
 sluices, &c. Two large machinery 
 
 shops have been erected at the heads 
 of the dry docks for containing the 
 machinery necessary for repairs. In 
 addition to these works an embank- 
 ment and river-wall along the 
 whole length of the river frontage 
 of the new yard is completed, and 
 an extensive brick-field has been 
 established at the north corner of 
 the ' Extension works.' All the 
 bricks used in the works have been 
 made here, and almost entirely by 
 convict labour. Adjacent to the 
 brick-fields has been erected a 
 handsome memorial to the French 
 prisoners of war who died at 
 Chatham, and were buried near 
 this place. 
 
 Admittance to the dockyard can 
 be obtained on any working day by 
 writing the names of the visitors at 
 the entrance gate. Foreign subjects 
 require special permission, 
 
 The old yard is about 1 m. in 
 length, and contains four wet docks 
 capable of receiving large vessels. 
 One of these, a tidal basin, 400 ft. by 
 96 ft. was completed in 1857. It is 
 floored and lined with huge blocks 
 of granite. The arrangement of the 
 storehouses is admirable. — In the 
 mast-house, 240 ft. long, 120 wide, 
 masts are deposited 3 ft. in dianu 
 and 40 yards long. The timber for 
 making them is kept floating in 
 two great basins. — The smith's 
 shop, where anchors of the largest 
 size are made, contains 40 forges. 
 
 At the N. E. of the yard are the 
 Saw-mills, erected under the super- 
 intendence of the elder Brunei, 
 and worked by powerful steam ma- 
 chinery. In the sawing-room are 8 
 saw-frames, each capable of carrying 
 from r to 30 saws ; and 2 circular- 
 saw benches, with windlasses and 
 capstans for supplying them with 
 wood ; the whole set in motion by 
 an engine producing 80 strokes of 
 the saws in a minute. N. of the mills 
 is a canal passing into an elliptic 
 basin, from which the timber,having 
 been floated into the basin from the 
 river, is rapidly raised by machinery. 
 
ROUTE 3. — CHATHAM — GUN- WHARF. 
 
 99 
 
 The arrangements for protecting 
 the dockyard against fire are very 
 elaborate : hydrants are fixed on all 
 the water mains at short distances 
 apart. 
 
 The Gun Wharf, or small Arsenal, 
 adjoining the Dockyai'd, is rather a 
 storehouse than a great manufactory 
 of military engines, like the Arsenal 
 at Woolwich. It contains a large 
 park of artillery. 
 
 The great event in the history of 
 Chatham and its dockyard is by no 
 means the most honourable recorded 
 in British history — the burning by 
 the Dutch fleet of many English 
 ships of war lying here in ordinary. 
 On the 7th of June, 1667, De Ruyter, 
 with a fleet of 60 ships of the line, 
 anchored at the mouth of the 
 Thames. The English vessels in 
 that river, however, having received 
 timely notice, had retired above 
 Gravesend ; and the Dutch admiral 
 accordingly commenced operations 
 in the Med way, first attacking the 
 little fort at Sheerness, which was 
 abandoned after a defence of an 
 hour and a half. Although the pre- 
 parations and object of the enemy 
 had been long known, scarcely any 
 defence had been organised. 4 The 
 alarm/ says Evelyn {Diary, vol. 
 ii.), 'was so great that it put both 
 country and city into a panic, fear and 
 consternation, such as I hope I shall 
 never see more ; everybody was fly- 
 ing, none knew why or whither/ Mr. 
 Pepys judiciously buried his gold and 
 valuables. (See, for ample and curi- 
 ous details, his Diary, vol. iii.) There 
 was, in fact, nothing to prevent De 
 Ruyter from destroying every town 
 and vessel in the Thames or on its 
 banks ; and it was not until the 10th 
 of June, after the attack on Sheer- 
 ness had commenced, that the Duke 
 of Albemarle went down to Graves- 
 end ; to take order for the defence ' ; 
 where, says Mr. Pepys, 'I found 
 him just come, with a great many 
 idle lords and gentlemen, with their 
 pistols and fooleries, — and the bul- 
 wark not able to have stood half an 
 
 hour had the Dutch come up/ — 
 ' We do plainly at this time hear 
 the guns play/ he continues. This 
 was the attack on Sheerness ; after 
 the fall of which the Zealand 
 and Friesland ships joined De 
 Ruyter, whose fleet, now 72 ships of 
 the line, blockaded the mouths of 
 the two rivers. The attack on the 
 ships at Chatham was made on the 
 12th of June. The English fleet 
 lay between Gillingham and Chat- 
 ham, — within the chain that at 
 Gillingham Fort stretched across 
 the river. Two large ships, the 
 'Matthias* and 'Charles V./ were 
 placed as near this defence as pos- 
 sible, so as to bring their broadsides 
 to bear on the enem}'. The chain, 
 however, was speedily broken ; and 
 the two guard- vessels set in flames 
 by fire-ships. The next day, the 13th, 
 three 80-gun ships, 1 the largest and 
 most powerful of England,' which 
 lay oft' Upnor Castle, w T ere also de- 
 stroyed by the Dutch fire-ships, — 
 the final attempt of the enemy in 
 the Med way. 22 large vessels were 
 lying at Chatham when the chain 
 was broken ; and, considering the 
 utter want of preparation on our 
 side, it is only wonderful that the 
 vast Dutch armament did not prove; 
 far more destructive. Except recon- 
 noitring, however, they did nothing 
 until the 29th June, when a skirmish 
 between Dutch and English fire- 
 ships took place in the Hope, — the 
 enemy losing 11. and the English 8. 
 De Ruyter hovered about the coast 
 for some days after, and then retired. 
 The ' Royal Oak/ one of the great 
 ships burnt at Upnor, was com- 
 manded by Captain Douglas, who 
 shared its fate, saying it was 1 never 
 known that a Douglas left his post 
 without orders.' 
 
 Whilst excavating the Fitting-out 
 Basin of the dockyard extension 
 works, about the year 1877, a ship 
 was discovered embedded in the 
 mud, which is supposed to have 
 been sunk in St. Mary's Creek, to 
 obstruct the advance of the Dutch 
 fleet. 
 
100 
 
 ROUTE 3. — FORT PITT — OLD BROMPTON. 
 
 Every variety of uniform is to be 
 seen in the streets of Chatham. The 
 principal barracks extend along the 
 side of the river, and contain accom- 
 modation for more than 3000 men. 
 Fort Pitt, on the hill overlooking 
 the town, dates from the end of the 
 last century, and contains a well- 
 arranged military hospital, which, 
 until the building of Netley (Hand- 
 book for Hants), was considered the 
 head-quarters of the army medi- 
 cal department. One of the ' ambu- 
 lances ' used throughout the Penin- 
 sular war, and so constructed as to 
 be taken in pieces for carriage on 
 mule-back, is preserved here. There 
 is also a Museum, formed by contri- 
 butions from both services. The 
 gardens of the fort are well kept, 
 and command a very fine view over 
 the town and river. Remark the 
 machicoules of the principal tower : 
 they occur in the Nineveh marbles, 
 and may be traced downward 
 through all succeeding military 
 architectuie to that of the present 
 time. 
 
 Chatham contains little of general 
 interest unconnected with its dock- 
 yard or barracks. The Chureh was 
 built in 1788, and is naturally 
 hideous. The chancel and side- 
 chapel have been rebuilt. In the 
 nave is a brass (without effigy) for 
 Stephen Borough (d. 1584), of 
 Northam, in Devonshire, the ' dis- 
 coverer of Muscovia by the Northern 
 Sea passage to Archangel/ in 1553. S. 
 of the High Street is the Chapel of 
 St. Bartholomew's Hospital, the 
 only existing relic of this foundation 
 for lepers established by Bp. Gundulf . 
 The E. end alone is ancient, having 
 an apse with three circular-headed 
 windows, probably part of the 
 original structure. The hospital was 
 in 1 86 1 rebuilt on a large scale, in 
 the road facing Fort Pitt, at the W. 
 end of the town. It is a large red- 
 brick building, partly in the Byzan- 
 tine style, can accommodate 120 pa- 
 tients, and is mainly supported bycon - 
 tributions from the Watts's charity 
 trustees and the War Office. 
 
 Sir John Hawkins's Hospital, 
 
 founded by him in 1592 for decayed 
 mariners and shipwrights, stands 
 in the High Street. A house 
 with carved front in this street 
 is pointed out as having been 
 the residence of the Petts, the great 
 shipbuilders of the 16th and 17th 
 cents. 
 
 A large convict prison, capable of 
 containing about 2000 convicts, 
 has been built of late years just 
 outside the walls of the dockyard, 
 where the convicts are employed in 
 the extension works. A branch pri- 
 son has also been built near the 
 village of Borstal, about ij m. from 
 Rochester, with the view of employ- 
 ing the convicts in building the 
 outlying forts for the protection of 
 the dockyard. 
 
 Old Brompton, a hamlet in 
 Gillingham parish, E. of Chatham, 
 is completely enveloped in the con- 
 tinuous and extensive fortified lines 
 constructed for the defence of the 
 Dockyard and Gun Wharf. These 
 lines enclose a superb naval exhi- 
 bition, barracks for the Eoyal Marine 
 light infantry, barracks and hospital 
 for the line, which afford accommo- 
 dation for 4000 or 5000 men, and 
 barracks with stables for the Koyal 
 Engineers. These last have been 
 hitherto known as Brompton Barracks. 
 They form a spacious quadrangle, 
 on the E. side of which is a hand- 
 some gateway, inlaid with slabs of 
 marble containing the names of 
 members of the corps who died in 
 the Kussian war. It is here that the 
 corps is instructed practically in 
 their special duties of sapping, 
 mining, &c, &c. The pontooning 
 operations are carried on at Would- 
 ham, about 4 m. above Rochester 
 Bridge. Their models and tools 
 merit a minute inspection ; and it is 
 seldom that a day passes on which 
 some interesting field-operation may 
 not be witnessed. The Model-room 
 and Lecture Theatre, on the N. 
 side of the barrack square, beside the 
 models already noticed, illustrating 
 attack and defence of fortified places, 
 
ROUTE 3. — OLD BROMPTON — GILLINGHAM. 
 
 101 
 
 construction of bridges, &c, contains 
 several relics of the 4 Koyal George.' 
 The sappers employed on the wreck 
 were exercised here in diving for 
 some time beforehand. Here is also 
 preserved a piece of the chevaux-de- 
 frise surmounted by the forlorn-hope 
 at Badajoz. The famous sword-blades 
 (at least in this fragment) are not 
 swords at all, but narrow iron spikes 
 like railing-tops, about i ft. in 
 length. The geological and natural 
 history collections, the specimens of 
 Chinese and Japanese arms, &c, 
 though small, are very choice. Here 
 also may be seen one of the very few 
 messages transmitted by the Atlantic 
 cable of 1858. The Museum is open 
 daily from 9 to 5, on introduction 
 by an officer of the garrison. 
 
 The School of Military En- 
 gineering has been considerably 
 enlarged. Facing the memorial arch 
 before mentioned on the E. side, 
 has been erected a handsome and 
 capacious building, named the 
 R. E. Institute, comprising a 
 lecture theatre, laboratory, library, 
 class rooms, and offices necessary for 
 instruction. A large modelling shed, 
 where field-works on a smaller scale 
 than would actually be required, 
 are constructed by classes of men 
 under instruction, is near at hand, 
 and would be interesting to some 
 visitors, as would also be the field- 
 works (full size\ military bridges, 
 &c, which are to be seen just out- 
 side. In front is the fine bronze 
 statue of Gen. Gordon, the hero of 
 Khartoum, in his uniform as an 
 Egyptian Governor. 
 
 Chatham Lines, the fortifications 
 enclosing the dockyard and barracks, 
 were commenced in 1758, and com- 
 pleted about 1807. They are of 
 unusual merit, but somewhat out of 
 date, and are particularly worthy of 
 minute inspection by the military 
 man. They encircle a considerable 
 stretch of ground, including the 
 village of Brompton, running down 
 to the Medway at either extremity. 
 One of the cemeteries of Roman 
 
 Rochester, and traces of extensive 
 villas, were discovered during their 
 formation. On and about these lines 
 take place the field operations, 
 imitation battles, and grand reviews, 
 which are the distinguishing glories 
 of Chatham. Whilst enjoying the 
 smell of the 1 villanous saltpetre,' 
 however, the visitor will do well to 
 bear in mind the awful situation in 
 which Mr. Pickwick found himself 
 here, and to take up a position in 
 which he will neither be exposed 
 to the terrors of blank cartridges, 
 nor to the rush of a charging 
 regiment. 
 
 A system of detached Forts has 
 been designed for the protection of 
 the Dockyard and Garrison on the 
 land side, and sites have been 
 bought for this purpose by the War 
 Department. Building operations 
 will probably commence shortly. 
 The forts of Hoo and Darnet, on the 
 Medway, about 1 m. below Gilling- 
 ham, which have recently been 
 completed, are intended for the river 
 defence of the Dockyard : they are 
 quite of the most modern type of 
 fort, and are armed with guns of 
 powerful calibre. On the E. side of 
 the lines is the Town of New 
 Brompton, which has sprung up 
 since i860, chiefly through the 
 wants of the Dockyard. The large 
 building 011 the hill S. of New 
 Brompton is being erected as a 
 Temple for the religious community 
 called the New and Latter House of 
 [srael who have a settlement here. 
 When finished it will be a perfect 
 cube, equal in height, breadth, and 
 length. The sculptures on each side 
 are symbolic of the prominent 
 doctrines of the community. Adjoin- 
 ing New Brompton, and within \ m. 
 is the village of 
 
 Gillingham, famous for its 
 cherry-gardens. The name occurs 
 also in Dorsetshire and Norfolk ; and 
 is thought by Mr. Kemble to indicate 
 an ancient settlement of the Saxon 
 £ Gillingas,' whose primitive location 
 was, perhaps, Gilling in Yorkshire. 
 
102 KOUTE 3. — GILLINGHAM— RAINHAM CHURCH. 
 
 The manor was one of those attached 
 to the see of Canterbury before the 
 Conquest. The Church, has portions 
 ranging from E. E. to Perp. The 
 font is Norm, and very curious. 
 The building, which has been com- 
 pletely restored, exhibits some 
 remains of Norman work. It con- 
 tains parts of some fine brasses of 
 the 15th cent. A niche over the 
 porch (E. E.) is pointed out as 
 having contained the figure of 1 Our 
 Lady of Gillingham/ pilgrimages to 
 whom were much in request. 
 
 Of the Archiepiscopal Palace the only 
 remains now form part of the 
 cellarage at the Vicarage. At 
 Grange, \ m. beyond the ch., is a 
 small Perp. chapel, now used as an 
 outhouse. It was built by Sir John 
 Philpott, temp. Kich. II., present 
 with the king (as Lord Mayor) 
 during his interview with Wat 
 Tyler, in whose death he bore a 
 part. 
 
 Gillingham for perhaps its name- 
 sake in Dorsetshire ?) was the scene 
 of a fierce battle between Edmund 
 Ironside and Knut the Dane. 
 William Adams, the first real dis- 
 coverer of Japan, in 1598, was born 
 here. 
 
 Gillingham Port, previously men- 
 tioned, has ceased to exist : it was 
 destroyed four years ago in extending 
 the dockyard. 
 
 [From Chatham to Canterbury 
 (27 \ m.) the rly. runs nearly 
 parallel with the old coach-road, 
 throwing off a branch to Sheppey at 
 Sittingbourne (Rte. 13) ; at Faversham 
 Junction (whence the Kent Coast 
 Railway proceeds to Whitstable, 
 Margate, and Ramsgate — Rte. 5) it 
 bends S., and winds round by 
 Selling, under the high ground of 
 the Blean. This affords some striking 
 views, but the antiquary will perhaps 
 choose the old turnpike-road, which 
 follows throughout the course of the 
 Watling Street ; interesting for its 
 own relics, and not less so as the 
 road taken by that famous company 
 of Canterbury pilgrims who set out 
 
 from the ' Tabard* in South wark. 
 The scenery is good for nearly the 
 whole distance ; and from Boughton 
 Hill, 4 m. E. from Faversham, one 
 of the finest views in the county is 
 to be had. 
 
 The principal Roman villas in 
 Kent lay along the course of this 
 great road, branches of which ex- 
 tended to the sea at Richborough 
 (Rutupia?) and Lymne (Portus Le- 
 manis). Pennant has remarked 
 (what is, of course, fortuitous) that 
 a protracted line of the Watling 
 Street would fall direct on Rome. 
 The original trackway was probably 
 British, and that by which the 
 Druids of Mona passed to the Con- 
 tinent (Q. R , xcvii.). It was thus 
 a 1 via sacra ' before it became the 
 main road followed by pilgrims to 
 the shrine of Becket, in connexion 
 with which, as seems not unlikely, 
 the name of the Watling Street was 
 sometimes given to the Milky Way. 
 (Compare the Turkish name for the 
 Galaxy, 'The Hadjis' Road/ and 
 the Spanish, 1 St. Iago's Way ' — 
 Grimm. In Norfolk the Galaxy was 
 called ' The Walsingham Way/ from 
 the famous shrine of the Virgin 
 there.)] 
 
 After leaving the tunnel at New 
 Brompton, the rly. for several miles 
 commands good views of the opposite 
 Isle of Sheppey (Minster is con- 
 spicuous, on its tree-clad hill), of the 
 course of the Med way, its junction 
 with the Thames, its islands, and of 
 the ships-of-war lying in ordinary, 
 extending in a long line as far as the 
 Nore. 
 
 39 m. Rainham (Stat.). 
 
 The Church (Perp., with lofty 
 tower, and restored in 1871) contains 
 two remarkable monuments of the 
 Tufton family, — George Tufton, ob. 
 1670 ; and Nicholas Earl of Thanet, 
 1679. Brasses: William Bloor, 1529 ; 
 John Norden and four wives, 1580. 
 In the churchyard is the burial- 
 place of the Earls of Thanet. The 
 massive lock and ponderous key, and 
 
ROUTE 3. — UPCHURCH — HALSTOW MARSHES. 103 
 
 wicket in the N. door are worth 
 inspection. 
 
 [l| m. N.E. of Rainham, on a 
 creek opening to the Medway, is 
 Upchurch, overlooking the range 
 of marshes which extend from 
 Gillingham to Lower Halstow, and 
 are intersected by numberless creeks 
 and channels from the river. 
 
 The Church is principally Dec, 
 with some E. E., and is interesting. 
 There is a vault under the chancel, 
 into which the descent is by a spiral 
 staircase. Since the restoration of 
 the ch. in 1876, several ancient 
 wall paintings (some assigned to 15th 
 cent.) have been revealed. In 
 Hasted's time there were many 
 bones here, — a collection in some 
 degree resembling those at Hythe 
 and Folkestone. The tower and 
 spire — the latter square for about 
 10 ft., and then octagonal — should 
 be noticed. The ch. was granted in 
 1 187 to the Premonstratensian 
 Abbey of L'isle Dieu in Normandy, 
 and after the suppression of alien 
 foundations was assigned by Henry 
 VI. to All Souls, Oxford. 
 
 The Upchureh Marshes, which, 
 in fact, consist of hard ground lying 
 on a bed of very fine clay, are the site 
 of extensive Roman potteries, 1 which 
 must, from appearances, have been 
 worked during the whole period of 
 the Roman occupation of the island. 
 In many parts along the sides of the 
 creeks, where the sea has broken 
 away the ground and left a per- 
 pendicular bank, we can see,running 
 along at a depth of from 2 to 3 ft., 
 a regular layer, in many places a 
 foot thick, of Roman pottery, most 
 of it in fragments, but here and 
 there a perfect or nearly perfect 
 vessel, and mixed with lumps of 
 half-burnt clay. The bed of the 
 creek is formed of the clay in a 
 liquid state, forming a fine and very 
 tenacious mud ; this is completely 
 filled with the Roman pottery, which 
 is more easily procured in the mud 
 than on the bank, and with less 
 danger of breaking the perfect 
 
 specimens. The latter may be felt 
 by pushing a stick about in the 
 mud.' — (Wright) 
 
 The search for this pottery is no 
 light task, since the treasure-seekers 
 must trust themselves, at low water, 
 to the mud, which has no definite 
 bottom, and are consequently 
 obliged to keep themselves in almost 
 constant motion, lest they should 
 sink too far, and become themselves 
 embedded for the gratification of 
 future archaeologists. Large water- 
 boots, sou'-westers, and light spades 
 should be provided by the adven- 
 turous. The Medway pottery was 
 inferior to that made at Caistor, in 
 Northamptonshire (Durobrivae). Its 
 texture is, however, fine and hard ; 
 and its colour usually a blue-black, 
 1 which was produced by baking it 
 in the smoke of vegetable substances 
 in smother kilns.' Some specimens 
 of a red ware are also found here. 
 The ornaments of both kinds are 
 simple, consisting of lines and raised 
 points, though their arrangements 
 are very graceful and diversified. 
 The forms are always good. The 
 extent of the works is remarkable. 
 Layers of pottery have been found 
 at almost every point between 
 Gillingham and the Isle of Sheppey, 
 — nearly 7 m. Inland the site ex- 
 tends at least 3 m. The fragments 
 are, no doubt, i the refuse of the 
 kilns of the potters, who, it seems, 
 gradually moved along in the course 
 of years, or rather of ages, using up 
 the clay, and throwing their refuse 
 — the broken and damaged pottery — 
 on the land which they had ex- 
 hausted, until this extensive tract 
 of country became covered with it/ 
 The field of broken pottery thus left 
 by the Romans was gradually 
 covered by alluvial soil, which the 
 tide has again scooped into creeks, 
 thus bringing the fragments to 
 light. 
 
 In the Halstow Marshes are in- 
 dications of buildings, apparently 
 marking the site of a village inhabited 
 by the potters and their masters or 
 
104 
 
 ROUTE 3. — NEWINGTON — BORDEN. 
 
 overseers. These are especially 
 evident near Lower Halstow Church, 
 where an embankment filled with 
 broken tiles and pottery has been 
 thrown up to protect the land from 
 the sea, The little Church of 
 Halstow Qialig stoic, the i holy place,' 
 or church, Sax.) has much Roman 
 masonry in its walls, and deserves 
 careful examination. It is possibly 
 of Saxon origin. 
 
 The high grounds behind the 
 marshes, stretching E. from Otter- 
 ham Creek, were the site of a Roman 
 cemetery belonging to the Halstow 
 settlement. i Sepulchral deposits 
 of urns and calcined bones are 
 frequently met with there, and in 
 one of them was found a large brass 
 coin of Antoninus Pius/ — Wright, 
 Wanderings of an Antiquary ; see also 
 Coll. Ant, by Mr. C. R. Smith.] 
 
 41J m. Newington (Stat.). 
 
 The Church (Dec.) has been re- 
 stored, and is large and handsome. 
 Brasses : William Monde, 1488 ; Lady 
 Norton, 15 10, and two sons ; Francis 
 Holbrook, 1581, and two wives; 
 Mary Brook, 1600. There are traces 
 of 14th cent, wall-paintings, and 
 a curious Elizabethan font canopy. 
 The paintings are of great merit. 
 A priory for nuns was founded 
 here soon after the Domesday 
 survey. The prioress having been 
 found strangled in her bed, the 
 nuns were removed to Minster in 
 Sheppey ; but according to local 
 tradition they were buried alive in 
 a pit still called Nunpit, 1 m. W. of 
 the church. Embedded in orchards 
 and hop grounds Newington is 
 an almost ideal E. Kent village. 
 
 [At Hartlip, 1 m. S.W., con- 
 siderable remains of Roman baths, 
 attached to a villa, were laid open 
 in 1848, the existence of some part 
 of which was already known. The 
 tiles forming the columns of the 
 hypocaust were deeply scored across, 
 so as to form small squares, 
 apparently for easy separation when 
 such tiles were required for con- 
 
 structing coarse tesselated pave- 
 ments. These remains are in a field 
 called The Banes' Field, about 1 m. 
 S.W. of Hartlip Church. On their 
 first discovery, about 1750, many 
 bushels of wheat, apparently 
 scorched by fire, were found in one 
 of the divisions. Hartlip church 
 has been restored, and is richly 
 ornamented. 
 
 On Key col Hill, 1 m. on the turn- 
 pike-road beyond Newington, a great 
 quantity of Roman urns of various 
 forms have been discovered, but 
 without sepulchral deposits. There 
 are numerous lines of earthwork 
 here, and in the woods adjoining ; 
 and it was at first conjectured that 
 the place was the site of a station. 
 Of this, however, there is no definite 
 proof. Mr. Oldbuck would have 
 been pleased with the speculation 
 that makes Keycol Caii Collis, or, says 
 Hasted gravely, ' Caius Julius 
 Caesar's Hill/ and Key Street 
 beyond L Caii Stratum/ A more 
 probable trace of Rome is found in 
 the sweet chestnut- trees which 
 abound in the woods here. They 
 are still more frequent in the ad- 
 joining parish of Milton ; and many 
 venerable trees are known as the 
 boundary marks of parishes and 
 manors, a proof of their extreme 
 antiquity. Pennant remarks that 
 Kent is the only county in which 
 they are found growing in an ap- 
 parently wild state. They are of 
 course not indigenous, and were 
 probably introduced, like the earliest 
 cherries, by the successors of ' Caius 
 Julius/ 
 
 At Sutton Barn, in the parish of 
 Borden (2 m. S. of Keycol Hill), 
 foundations of two Roman buildings 
 and many coins were discovered in 
 1846. The Church of Borden has a 
 Norm, tower, and W. door ; and 
 within the present belfry is a perfect 
 and elaborately ornamented Norm, 
 arch. As usual throughout this 
 district, Roman bricks are found in 
 the walls. 
 
ROUTE 3. — SITTINGBOURNE — MILTON. 
 
 105 
 
 The E.E. Church of Stockbury, 
 
 3 m. S. of Newington, deserves a 
 visit, for the sake of the excellent 
 carvings in its chancel ; and the 
 arrangement of the arches is un- 
 common and beautiful. There are 
 some good fragments of i3th-cent. 
 glass in the lancet windows.] 
 
 44! m - SITTINGBOURNE 
 
 Junction. On 1. a branch to Queen- 
 borough and Sheerness (Rte. 13). 
 
 The town of Sittingbourne* 
 (Pop. 8,302) seems to have been 
 a usual halting-place for pilgrims 
 to Canterbury ; and sundry mon- 
 archs, following their example, 
 have ' dined ' here on their way to 
 or from London. Here Henry V. 
 was sumptuously entertained at the 
 1 Red Lion ' on his return to Eng- 
 land after Agincourt, where, says a 
 local tradition, the cost of the enter- 
 tainment, stately as it was, was 
 9s. gel. The two great hotels here, 
 the Rose and the George, the latter 
 of which was the favourite resting- 
 place of both George I. and II. on 
 their way to Hanover, have shared 
 the fate of most of their brethren 
 on the old lines of road, and are now 
 converted into shops and a lecture 
 hall ; but the population of the town 
 has increased since the opening of 
 the rly. Brick-making and paper- 
 making are extensively carried on, 
 and a new church was erected in 
 1867. 
 
 Of the old Church a very small 
 portion is E. E. The rest was re- 
 built in 1762 after a fire. In the 
 N. wall of the chancel is a monument 
 of very unusual character, temp. 
 Edw. IV. It exhibits the effigy of 
 an unknown lady, in grave-clothes, 
 so arranged as to display the neck 
 and bosom. The left breast is re- 
 presented as swollen, the right as 
 wasted away. Across the chest lies 
 an infant, also in grave-clothes. 
 There is a tradition that the lady 
 died in childbed at Bayford Castle, 
 but who she was is unknown. 
 Theobald, the editor of Shakespeare, 
 whose opposition to Pope procured 
 
 him a place in the first edition of 
 the Dunciad, subsequently occupied 
 by Cibber, was born here towards 
 the end of the 17th cent. The six 
 old bells, of fine quality, were 
 made by Bartlet, the founder of the 
 Whitechapel bell-foundry, in 1687. 
 Two new ones were added in 1885. 
 
 [1 m. N. of Sittingbourne, and 
 overhanging the Swale marshes, 
 lies 
 
 MILTON Pop. 5,703\famous for 
 its oysters, which no doubt shared 
 in Roman favour with those ' Rutu- 
 pino edita fundo ' (see Rte. 4), or 
 rather, perhaps, ranked themselves 
 as Rutupians. The fisheries were 
 granted by King John to the Abbot 
 of Faversham, in whose hands they 
 remained until the Dissolution. 
 They have been dredged from the 
 earliest times by a company of 
 fishermen, ruled like those of 
 Faversham by certain ancient 
 customs and bye-laws. 1 Milton 
 natives 1 bear the bell, or more 
 properly are the pearls, among 
 British oysters ; and since the dis- 
 covery of the great sea-beds off 
 Shoreham their value has materially 
 increased, owing to the comparative 
 coarseness and more plentiful supply 
 of the latter. The dredgers work 
 under farmers of the fisheries, the 
 principal of whom until recently 
 was the late Mr. Alston, of Cheyney- 
 rock House, Sheppey, the possessor 
 of very extensive beds between 
 Sheerness and Whitstable, and no 
 doubt the greatest ' oyster- farmer ' 
 in the world. (See Whitstable, Rte. 
 6.) A large fleet of smacks and 
 hoys is employed in conveying the 
 produce of the Milton fisheries to 
 London The 1 King's town of Mil- 
 ton/ as it was called, was an ancient 
 royal villa; and there was a tradition 
 that Sexburga, the sainted prioress 
 of Minster in Sheppey. died here, 
 circ. 680. Of the present Church, 
 the N. aisle is Norm., the rest E. E. 
 and Dec. Pieces of Roman brick 
 are scattered through the walls ; 
 and i in the E. wall is one fragment 
 
106 ROUTE 3. — CASTLE ROUGH — TONG CASTLE. 
 
 with Roman red mortar adhering to 
 it.' — Hussey. Remark also the 
 herring-bone masonry of the N. 
 wall. In the S. chancel are three 
 azuleios, or Flemish paving-tiles with 
 coloured patterns. Brasses : a knight, 
 circ. 1470 ; Margaret Alefe, 1539. 
 
 On Kemsley Down, in the marshes 
 below Milton, and near the creek, is 
 an earthwork about 100 yards square, 
 with a broad fosse and single vallum, 
 known as Castle Rough. There are 
 traces of a raised causeway leading 
 from it to the mouth of the creek. 
 This has been fixed upon, and 
 rightly in all probability, as the 
 fortress thrown up by Hasten the 
 Dane when he landed here in 892 
 (Asser : 1 Hastengus fecit sibi fir- 
 missimum oppidum apud Middel- 
 tunam) \ 
 
 Bayford Castle, near Sitting- 
 bourne, about 1 m. distant from Castle 
 Rough, occupies the site of one said 
 to have been built by King Alfred as 
 a counter fortress to Castle Rough. 
 The moat and a fragment of wall 
 remain. The castle was the resi- 
 dence of Leybournes, Nottinghams, 
 Cheyneys, and Lovelaces, until the 
 end of the 16th cent., when it became 
 a farm-house.] 
 
 [The Church of Tunstall (2 m. S. 
 of Sittingbourne) has E. E. and 
 Dec. portions. In it are elaborate 
 monuments for Sir James Cromer 
 (1613) and Sir Edward Hales (1654). 
 Brasses : Ralf Wolf, rector, 1525 ; a 
 lady, c. 1590. Adjoining the village 
 is Gore Court (A. W. Gordon, Esq.) ; 
 and about 2 m. S. Woodstock (E. 
 Twopeny, Esq.). Bredgar, among 
 the chalk hills 2 m. S.W., has a 
 Perp. Church with a curious Norm, 
 doorway in the W. front of the 
 tower ; there are Roman bricks in 
 the wall. B?*ass : Thos. Coly, Custos 
 of the College of the Holy Trinity. 
 Bredgar, 1518. This chantry, or 
 1 small college, for a chaplain and 
 two scholar clerks/ was founded 
 temp. Rich. II. by a rector of 
 Bredgar. A house near the ch. is 
 still known as the ' Chantry House/] 
 
 Beyond Sittingbourne occurs a 
 good view of the Isle of Sheppey, 
 N., Minster Church and the wooded 
 hills being very distinct. There is 
 a broad road from Sittingbourne 
 to Sheerness through the marshes, 
 formerly crossing the Swale by a 
 ferry, which has, however, now been 
 superseded by the rly. bridge ; and 
 there is also a road through Murston 
 to Elmley ferry. The church of 
 Minster-in-Sheppey, as it is 
 called (i| m. N.E. of Sittingbourne \ 
 is Norm., and contains two interest- 
 ing brasses to Sir Roger de North wode 
 and his wife, who both died in 1320. 
 (See Arch. Cant. ix. 148.) Of the 
 Abbey, the Gatehouse, Church, and part 
 of Conventual Buildings, still remain. 
 The Abbey Church is probably the 
 oldest in England. In S. wall is the 
 tomb of Sir Robert de Shurland of 
 Shurland Castle, temp. Edward I. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Sittingbourne 
 the mound of Tong Castle is visible. 
 It covers about half an acre, and is 
 surrounded by a broad moat, on 
 which is a mill of some antiquity. 
 The ancient legend of Carthage — 
 1 facti de nomine Byrsam, Taurino 
 quantum possent circumdare tergo ' 
 — found in many different parts of 
 the world, has also been located here. 
 (See Handbk. for Hants, for another 
 version of the story connected with 
 Tichbourne.) Hengist, after the 
 first battle in which he assisted Vor- 
 tigern, is said to have requested 
 from the British chief as much land 
 as an ox-hide could encompass. 
 This was readily granted, and the 
 hide, being cut into small strips, 
 was made to encircle the ground on 
 which Tong or Thong Castle was then 
 erected. Very remarkably, this old 
 Saxon legend has been carried back 
 to the East, whence in all proba- 
 bility it first came. The Hindoos de- 
 clare that the descendants of Hengist 
 obtained possession of Calcutta by a 
 precisely similar stratagem. 
 
 The site of Tong Castle, close to 
 the Watling Street on one side, and 
 to the Swale, then the usual ship 
 passage, on the other, was an advan- 
 
ROUTE 3. — BAPCHILD — TEYNHAM. 
 
 107 
 
 tageous one ; and the mound may 
 very possibly have been an im- 
 portant station with the earlier 
 Saxon colonists. (Comp. mounds 
 at Coldred and Woodnesborough, 
 Rtes. 3, 4.) The success thus gained 
 was, according to the further tradi- 
 tion, rapidly followed up. It was in 
 Tong Castle that the fair-haired 
 Rowena ' drank hael ' to King Vor- 
 tigern, and so fascinated him that 
 he resigned the entire kingdom of 
 Kent in favour of Hengist ; and here 
 a few years later took place the mas- 
 sacre of the Britons by the Saxons at 
 a feast — a story also borrowed from 
 the older stores of Teutonic tradi- 
 tion. The narrator of the whole is 
 Geoffrey of Monmouth, a proof at 
 least that Saxon traditions had early 
 clustered about Tong Castle. 
 
 A large cutlass sword, with a 
 buckhorn handle, is said by Hasted 
 to have been found within the site. 
 A castle of Tong is mentioned after 
 the Conquest, when it was given to 
 Bp. Odo, and later, temp. Rich. II., 
 when it was in the hands of Edmund 
 Mortimer Earl of March. There are 
 still some fragments of masonry 
 about the mound. The Church of 
 Tong is partly Norm., with an E.E. 
 tower and Perp. rood-screen. 
 
 Tong lies in the heart of the 
 stronghold of ague on either side of 
 the Swale. The soil is throughout 
 very rich ; but this is the Kentish 
 region of ' wealth without health.' 
 The local proverb runs — 
 
 I He that will not live long, 
 Let him dwell at Murston, Teynham, or 
 Tong.' 
 
 Bapchild, seen S. of the line, 
 1 \ m. beyond Sittingbourne, is pro- 
 bably the Bacancild where, in 694, 
 Wihtred King of Kent held his 
 great council 4 to consult about re- 
 pairing the churches of God which 
 were in Kent/ The church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Lawrence, is principally 
 Norm. : but many later windows 
 have been inserted. It deserves, 
 however, careful examination. The 
 W. end seems to have had five 
 
 round-headed windows, one of 
 which remains. (Comp. Davington, 
 post.) Along the N. wall of the 
 chancel runs an E. E. arcade, with 
 detached pilasters. The Perp. screen 
 should be noticed, and the ironwork 
 of the door, which is ancient. 
 
 The church of Bapchild belonged 
 to the Crown until Richard I., and 
 was given by John to Chichester 
 Cathedral, to which it is still at- 
 tached. There was a small oratory 
 here, near the wayside, N. of the 
 ch., at which pilgrims to Canterbury 
 halted to perform their devotions. 
 No remains exist. 
 
 Adjoining the village is Bapchild 
 Court (W. W. Gascoyne, Esq.) 
 
 [The church of Rodmersham, 
 1 m. S. of Bapchild, is of various 
 dates, the chancel being apparently 
 Norm. There are some fragments 
 of stained glass. The church be- 
 longed to the Knights of St. John, 
 to whom it was uiven by Henry II. ; 
 and the four canopied sedilia of 
 wood in the chancel may perhaps 
 have been appropriated by them'. 
 The church has been elaborately 
 restored, and an elaborate modern 
 Rood Screen of Perp. tracery was set 
 up 1880. 
 
 The ch. of Lynstead, i \ m. S. E. 
 of Rodmersham, has some handsome 
 monuments of the Roper and Huges- 
 sen families.] 
 
 The well-known fertility of Kent 
 is apparent in the variety and rich- 
 ness of the crops throughout the 
 surrounding country, and extending 
 from here to Canterbury. 
 
 48 m. Teynham (Stat.). 
 
 The ch., which stands on rising 
 ground, is E. E. with Perp. tower. 
 It is cruciform, and has in the S. 
 transept a brass for John Frogenhall, 
 1444, with collar of SS. engraved in 
 Arch. Cant. vol. i. The registers 
 extend back to 1539, the year after 
 parish registers were first enforced 
 by law. 
 
 Teynham was, according to Lam» 
 barde, the original cherry-garden 
 
 K 
 
108 
 
 ROUTE 3. — FAVERSHAM. 
 
 and apple-orchard of Kent. The 
 Abps. of Canterbury possessed a 
 vineyard here called the ' New Gar- 
 den/ which in the reign of Henry 
 III. was in great repute, and during 
 the vacancy of the see was kept in 
 order, like that at Northfleet, by the 
 ministers of the Crown. — {Hudson 
 Turner). Its former reputation prob- 
 ably induced Richard Harris, 
 fruiterer to Henry VIII , to fix on 
 Teynham for the establishment of 
 his i new orchards ' — great store of 
 i pippin grafts ' being procured by 
 him from France, and 4 cherry 
 grafts ' from the Low Countries. He 
 planted about 105 acres, from which 
 subsequently much of Kent was 
 supplied ; and the reputation of the 
 Teynham fruit-gardens was con- 
 siderable until the end of the last 
 century. The cherry had been 
 first brought into Britain by the 
 Romans. (Pliny, I. xv. c. 25.) The 
 gardens here long afforded the main 
 supply to the London market, and 
 were a most valuable property until 
 the remission of duty on foreign 
 fruit, which enabled importers from 
 Germany and France to compete 
 with native produce. 
 
 [Doddington Church, in the chalk 
 district, 4 m. S., is chiefly Norman, 
 with a Tr.-Norm. chancel, and at 
 the E. end are four circular-headed 
 windows, three below and one above. 
 Some woodwork, which has been 
 painted, remains. The tower is of 
 wood. There is a second, or S. 
 chancel, which is E. E. Sharsted 
 Court (C. D. L. De Laune, Esq.).] 
 
 Shortly before reaching the Fa- 
 versham station, on emerging from 
 a cutting through Beacon Hill, where 
 are traces of a Roman camp, a very 
 fine view presents itself ; showing 
 1. the By sing woods, Davington 
 Priory and Church, Favers- 
 ham Church and town, the new 
 Almshouses being very conspicuous, 
 and the open sea ; and beyond, the 
 steeps hills covered with the exten- 
 sive woods of the Bleaxi. 
 
 52 m. FAVERSHAM Junction 
 (near Preston). 
 
 Railways : to Herne Bay, Margate, 
 Broadstairs, and Ramsgate — Rte. 5 ; 
 to Canterbury and Dover, post. 
 
 Faversham* (Pop. of borough 
 10,478), or FavresfeldjWSLS originally a 
 royal 'villa,' which early rose into 
 importance from its situation at the 
 point where the Wat ling Street 
 touched the head of a navigable 
 creek ; and which in 930 was large 
 enough to entertain Athelstane and 
 his 4 witan.' The number of Saxon 
 and Roman remains discovered in 
 the King's Field (N. of the town) 
 would appear to indicate the exist- 
 ence of a place of some size here at an 
 early date. It owed its later reputa- 
 tion to an abbey founded here by 
 Stephen and Matilda (1147-49), 
 commonly known as St. Saviour's of 
 Faversham. A relic of the Holy 
 Cross gent by Godfrey of Bouillon to 
 Stephen was placed in this abbey, 
 hence said to be founded ' yn the 
 worship of the Croys.' Stephen, 
 his queen Matilda, and Eustace 
 their son, were buried in the Abbey 
 Church, all during the lifetime of 
 the first abbot, Clarembald. It was 
 founded for Cluniacs : but the monks 
 almost immediately after the founda- 
 tion were absolved from the Clu- 
 niac allegiance and became simple 
 Benedictines. The abbot sat in par- 
 liament (as holding in chief) till 
 1325. The king, as founder, claimed, 
 after each abbot's death, his ring, his 
 drinking-cup, his palfrey, and his 
 kennel of hounds. At the Dissolu- 
 tion the Abbey was granted to Sir 
 Thomas Cheyney, who afterwards 
 sold it to Thomas Arden, of tragical 
 memory. It stood at the N. end of 
 the town, where the ' Abbey Farm ' 
 still preserves its name. The great 
 orchard in front is covered with in- 
 terlacing foundations : but nothing 
 remains above ground except a 
 massive boundary wall on one side. 
 The Gatehouses and Oratory de» 
 scribed by Lewis (1727) have quite 
 disappeared. The abbey had its own 
 church, within its own precincts. 
 
ROUTE 3. — faversham: the church. 103 
 
 The parish church is dedicated 
 to St. Mary of Charity. It is a large 
 and handsome building, with pro- 
 minent spire^ and has been 
 thoroughly restored. The ch. is 
 E.E., of great size and beauty, the 
 transepts being divided into three 
 aisles, by two rows of octangular 
 pillars. The nave in its present 
 state is Georgian Corinthian (by 
 Dance, 1756). The curious W. tower 
 and spire, somewhat resembling 
 that of St. Nicholas, Newcastle-on- 
 Tyne, were rebuilt by Beazley in 
 1797 ; the height is 148 feet. The 
 original E. E. arch may be traced 
 within the tower, rt. of which is an 
 ancient room called the Gaol. The 
 beautiful modern font of alabaster 
 and serpentine deserves notice. In 
 the W. wall of N. transept is a singu- 
 lar cross-shaped opening, which can 
 hardly have served as a hagioscope. 
 In the same transept, on the first 
 octangular pillar E., are some re- 
 mains of E. E. paintings of the 
 highest interest. Among them are 
 the Nativity ; the Virgin sitting 
 crowned with the Child ; the Salu- 
 tation of Mary and Elizabeth ; the 
 Angels appearing to the Shepherds 
 (their dog is fastened by a string to 
 one of the Shepherds' hands, and 
 barks at the Angel) ; the Cruci- 
 fixion ; and the women visiting the 
 Sepulchre. The great use of red 
 and green (as well as the costume) 
 indicates the date, which can be 
 very little later than that of the 
 church. On the wall of the N. aisle 
 of the chancel are some i4th-cent. 
 paintings in better preservation, 
 which have been described and 
 figured by Mr. Willement, in Arch. 
 Cant. vol. i. In the chancel, which 
 is of unusual breadth, are twelve 
 Miserere stalls, on one of which is 
 carved a fox carrying olf three hens. 
 N. is a richly canopied Perp. altar- 
 tomb ; the name of the occupant is 
 unknown. S., piscina, and three 
 sedilia with detached pilasters. The 
 E. window is by Willement. The 
 vestry contains a rich church chest, 
 with Dec. carving. On the S. wall 
 
 I of chancel is a memorial commemo- 
 rating 4 the change of nature in its 
 last tour ' of one Stephen Bax ; and 
 below, the brass of William Thorn- 
 bury, vicar of Faversham, d. 1448. 
 The inscription ' Credo in Sanct. 
 Eccles. Cath.' is said to have been 
 then used to indicate the infalli- 
 bility of the clergy in opposition 
 to the Lollards, the preposition 
 being properly applied only to 
 tho clauses relating directly to 
 the Deity (Lewis's Life of Pecocke\ 
 At the end of the S. aisle is a tomb 
 with Dec. canopy, called King Ste- 
 phen's. Stowe asserts that after the 
 Dissolution the king's body was 
 thrown into the river for the sake of 
 the lead about it. Brasses com- 
 memorate King Stephen who was 
 probably buried at the Abbey and 
 Bishop Marsh of Peterborough, son 
 of a vicar of Faversham, On the 
 floor are the remains of a fine brass, 
 commemorating some 'probus et 
 dignus vir ' whose name has 
 perished, and a perfect one of Henry 
 Hatche and his wife (1500, meat 
 benefactors to the town (com- 
 memorated in the fine modern win- 
 dow in S. transept). Above is the 
 mural monument of Thomas Mend- 
 field, 'a pillar of the famous ports,' 
 who kneels in a richly sleeved gown 
 of office. ( hrer the S. porch is a par- 
 vise chamber, in which, as in the 
 watching chamber of Canterbury 
 Cathedral, there is a tradition that 
 a king was once confined. The 
 whole of the exterior of the church, 
 as well as the interior of the chancel 
 and transepts, was restored in 1853 
 by Sir. G. G. Scott. Tho complete 
 restoration was carried out in 1874- 
 75- 
 
 In the church was formerly a 
 chapel of St. Thomas of Canterbury, 
 and altars (greatly honoured) of St. 
 Erasmus and SS. Crispin and Crisp ia- 
 nus. ' No one died who had anything 
 to leave, without giving something 
 to St. Erasmus' light ' ; and the other 
 two were the special patrons of 
 Faversham. During the persecution 
 under Maximin they 'fled from 
 
 K 2 
 
110 
 
 ROUTE 3. — FAYERSHAM : AMBRY CROFT. 
 
 Rome into Great Britain, and came 
 and dwelt at Faversham, where they 
 learned to make shoes for a liveli- 
 hood, and followed that trade for 
 some time at a house in Preston 
 Street, near the Crosse well, now 
 the sign of the Swan.' Long after 
 the Reformation, foreigners 4 of that 
 gentle calling ' were in the habit of 
 making ' considerable visits in pil- 
 grimage ' to this house. — (Lewis.) 
 Another legend pointed out a heap 
 of stones at the shore at Stone End, 
 near Lydd, as the grave of Crispin 
 and Crispianus, who were said to 
 have been shipwrecked there. (See 
 Rte. 14.) After Agincourt the 
 festival of St. Crispin was the chief 
 holiday of the town. 
 
 Faversham is remarkably well off 
 for educational institutions. Near 
 the church we have the large dis- 
 trict national schools : near these 
 Wreight's School (a good middle 
 school) and the Gibbs' School for 
 girls ; near the Ospringe road is the 
 new Grammar School (founded 
 by Dr. Cole in 1527, and remodelled 
 by Queen Elizabeth in 1576), re- 
 moved to its present quarters from 
 a site near the Churchyard, in 1877. 
 
 Into the i Ambry ' or ' Amery ' 
 Croft, a field near the churchyard, 
 local tradition asserts that the body 
 of Thomas Arden,who was murdered 
 in 1550, was carried to be buried. 
 His house, in which the murder took 
 place (now 80 Abbey Street), was 
 near the Abbey gate. An account 
 of the event was published by the 
 Rev. C.E. Donne, vicar of Faversham, 
 in 1873. For the full story of the 
 murder, which produced a tragedy 
 long held to be Shakspeare's and 
 which induced Spelman to allot a 
 conspicuous place to Master Arden 
 in his { History of Sacrilege/ the 
 reader must be referred to Holin- 
 shed, who, \ for the horriblenesse 
 thereof/ inserted it in his Chroni- 
 cles. . . . Mistress Alice, 1 young, tall, 
 and well-favoured of shape and 
 countenance/ had 1 fallen in fa- 
 miliaritie' with one Mosbye, a 1 black 
 swart man/ and an old servant of 
 
 her father-in-law's ; and at last 
 conspired with him to kill her 
 husband, taking as helpmates ' one 
 Green of Faversham ' and 'Black 
 Will, a terrible cruel ruffian/ who 
 had acquired much evil experience 
 during the French wars. After 
 watching Master Arden in London, 
 1 walking in Poule's/ and after 
 twice lying in wait for him to no 
 purpose, once on Rainham Down, 
 and again in the ' broomye-close * 
 between Faversham and the Shep- 
 pey ferry, they at last arranged to 
 kill him in his ow r n house during 
 St. Yalentine's fair, which was close 
 at hand. Black Will was accordingly 
 hidden in a closet at the end of 
 Arden's parlour, Feb. 15, 155 1, 
 1 being Sunday ' ; and when Arden 
 came in at supper- time, he ' sat down 
 to play a game at the tables ' with 
 Mosbye, who had his face toward the 
 place where Black Will stood, whilst 
 Green 1 stood at his maister's back 
 holding a candell in his hand, to 
 shaddowe Black Bill w hen he should 
 come out/ At a signal during the 
 game Black Will ' stept forth and cast 
 a towell round Arden's neck/ nearly 
 strangling him. Mosbye then com- 
 pleted the work ; and,finally,Mistress 
 Alice herself came into the country 
 house, where the body was laid, and 
 ' with a knife gave him 7 or 8 pricks 
 into the breast/ Then she sent for 
 certain Londoners wdio chanced to 
 be in the town, and after supper they 
 ' danced and played on the virgi- 
 nals and were merrie/ After the 
 guests were gone the body was car- 
 ried out by the door already named, 
 into the Ambry Croft, where ' they 
 laid him on his back in his night- 
 gown, with his slippers on.' Then 
 Alice alarmed the town, and 'the 
 mayor and others came to search 
 for her husband/ He was found in 
 the Croft ; but 1 a long rushe or 
 two' from the parlour floor stuck 
 between one of his slippers and his 
 foot, and they 'espied certayne 
 footsteppes by reason of the snowe/ 
 which began to fall just as they were 
 carrying him out. Mistress Arden 
 
ROUTE 3. — FAVERSHAM — DAVTNGTON. 
 
 Ill 
 
 was at once accused ; and, 4 herself 
 beholding her husband's bloud, said, 
 "Oh the bloud of God help ! for 
 this bloud have I shed ! " ' Mosbye 
 was taken in bed, and afterwards 
 hung at Smithfield, as was Green 
 at Faversham. Mistress Alice was 
 burned at Canterbury. Black Will 
 was taken some years after, and 
 i brent on a scaffolde at Flushing/ 
 It was said that no grass would grow 
 on the field where Arden's body 
 had lain, i which field he hadde, as 
 some have reported, cruelly taken 
 from a widow woman, who had 
 cursed him most bitterly, even to 
 his face . . . wishing that all the 
 world might wonder on him.' — (Ho~ 
 Unshed.) Lewis thought the ground 
 was kept bare by art, as was done 
 by spots on the Castle Green at 
 Colchester, where Sir Charles Lucas 
 and Sir G. Lisle fell when shot. 
 The whole story is a strange and 
 striking illustration of the condition 
 of society at this most disjointed 
 time. Compare the Stourhead mur- 
 der, nearly contemp. (Strype's Me- 
 morials.) 
 
 An imposing group of almshouses 
 was erected in the Ospringe Road in 
 1863, in which the inmates of the 
 various charities of the town are 
 now placed all together in villa-like 
 residences ; the apsidal chapel, with 
 two spire-like turrets, has a singular 
 appearance. Some good timbered 
 and pargeted houses in East Street 
 were pulled down in 1862, and the 
 site is now occupied by a very showy 
 red brick group of villa residences, the 
 Institute, and Reading Rooms, 
 &c. Pennant mentions the 'wains- 
 cote of a house near the abbey- 
 gate, where were carved profiles of 
 Stephen and Matilda, and a figure 
 Qf Stephen in a boat drawn by a 
 swan.' For these the visitor may 
 perhaps search with better success 
 than we did. 
 
 Faversham has entertained sundry 
 great personages in their way to and 
 from Canterbury. In 15 19, ' spiced 
 brede, wine, and bere,' for the king 
 and queen, cost the town il. 6s. 5]^. ; 
 
 1 wine and capons to my lord cardi- 
 nall, 1 8s. gd.' Charles II. was here 
 on Nov. 1, 1660, and it was at 
 Faversham that James II. was de- 
 tained, after his attempt to escape by 
 way ofShellness. — (Macaiday, ii. 559. ) 
 He had been ' rudely pushed and 
 pulled about by the boatmen of the 
 coast.' ' His money and watch were 
 taken from him, but his diamonds 
 escaped, being taken for bits of 
 glass.' — {Macaiday.) This usage he 
 never forgave ; and the amnesty 
 offered in the fourth year of his exile 
 was accompanied by a long list of 
 exceptions, i in which the poor 
 fishermen who had searched his 
 pockets rudely, appeared side by 
 side with Churchill and Daub v.' 
 (P- 5740 
 
 There is a very ancient guild of 
 oyster-fishers connected with the 
 hundred of Faversham, which has a 
 custom 1 that none shall receive free- 
 dom of the guild who are notmarri< d 
 men.' (For the fisheries themselves 
 see Rte. 5.) The growth of madder 
 was first introduced lu re and at 
 Dart ford, in 1660, by one M. Crispe. 
 The powder-mills, now at some dis- 
 tance, bui formerly adjoining Favers- 
 ham (where the offices still remain, 
 are among the most important in the 
 kingdom, and the town itself has 
 largely increased of late years. 
 There are many handsome new 
 houses near the station, and a branch 
 line has been opened to the mouth 
 of the creek. 
 
 There is an extensive recreation 
 ground and the New Grammar 
 School buildings are well designed. 
 
 About \ 111. from Faversham, N.W., 
 beyond the canal, isDavington vil- 
 lage and priory, the site most pro- 
 bably of the Durolevum of Antonine's 
 Itinerary. Many Roman relics have 
 been found here ; and a very curious 
 mediaeval head-covering, the ancient 
 'cap of fence/ formed of octagonal 
 plates of iron, quilted neatly be- 
 tween two layers of coarse canvas. 
 (See Trans, of ArchceoJ. Institute.) The 
 Priory (its remains now a private 
 residence} was Benedictine, founded 
 
112 ROUTE 3 . — OARE — BOUGHTON-UNDER-BLEAN. 
 
 by Fulke de Newenham in 1153, 
 and called, from the smallness of the 
 estate, the house of the ' poor nuns 
 of Davington.' The church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Mary Magdalene, was 
 most carefully repaired and deco- 
 rated by the late Mr. T. Willement, 
 F.S.A., to whom the parishioners 
 are indebted for the restoration of 
 divine service. It seems to indicate 
 a much earlier date than the foun- 
 dation of the Priory. The E. 
 window and low S. aisle are later 
 E. E. additions. The W. end, with 
 its five remarkable round-headed 
 windows, and the plain circular 
 arches with broad soffetes within, 
 may possibly be anterior to the 
 Conquest. The registers of this 
 church, which have been continued 
 with great care, commence in the 
 sixth year of Edward VI. ; and al- 
 though a donative, it is privileged 
 with all the rights of a parochial 
 church. The house itself is a por- 
 tion of the ancient priory. The 
 Norm, arch, which formerly con- 
 nected the cloisters with the refec- 
 tory, remains ; together with the 
 western side of the cloisters them- 
 selves, and the entrance-hall in great 
 part : all of the time of Edw. I. The 
 cloister still has its heavily-moulded 
 ceiling of chestnut-wood, temp. Edw. 
 III. Great alterations were made 
 in the apartments about the time of 
 Elizabeth. An historical sketch of 
 the parish and priory, by Mr. Wille- 
 ment, was published (with many 
 illustrations) by Pickering in 1862. 
 
 1 m. 1ST. of Davington is Oare, with 
 a small E. E. ch., which has some 
 ancient glass. Hence is a ferry to 
 Harty, in Sheppey (Rte. 13). The 
 view down Faversham creek has a 
 cer tainDutch picturesqueness, which 
 is very pleasing. 
 
 Closely adjoining Faversham, S., is 
 Preston, the Church of which an- 
 ciently belonged to Christ Church, 
 Canterbury. It stands well, near the 
 London road, has an ancient low 
 tower with modern spire, and is very 
 picturesque. The chancel, with single 
 side-lancets, is interesting. On the 
 
 S. side are sedilia, much decorated. 
 The N. is occupied by a large and 
 elaborate monument, with effigy, for 
 Roger Boyle, father of the first Earl 
 of Cork, and grandfather of the good 
 and great philosopher. The kneel- 
 ing figures are, on the rt., John Boyle, 
 bishop of Cork ; on the left, Richard 
 Boyle, Earl of Cork. The ch. was 
 partially restored 1862. It has been 
 reseated in oak, and the E. window 
 has been filled with stained glass by 
 Willement, by whom there are 
 several memorial windows in other 
 parts of the church. 
 
 At Ospringe (1 m. S.W.) was a 
 Maison Dieu, or hospital, founded by 
 Henry II. There was a ' Camera 
 Regis ' in it for the king's use when 
 he went to France via Dover. King 
 John's Itinerary shows him to have 
 been frequently at Ospringe. The 
 hospital was in the hands of the 
 Templars. A window or two alone 
 remains. Ospringe Church contains 
 a Norman font of Purbeck, or Beth- 
 ersden marble. The nave is transi- 
 tional Norman ; chancel late E. E. 
 In a field S. of the London road 
 1 m. E. of Ospringe, are the remains 
 of the ancient church of Stone. 
 The foundations have been exca- 
 vated. Part are of Roman masonry, 
 of layers of tufa — bonded by string 
 courses of Roman bricks. The altar 
 (probably of the Norman Church), is 
 still to be seen. The ruins are 
 fenced round. There are remains of 
 apparently two sides of a nearly 
 square Roman building : perhaps a 
 church for the Christians in the 
 camp at Syndale or Durolevum. 
 (See Arch. Cant vol. ix. p. 79.) 
 
 [3 m. from Faversham, on the old 
 turnpike road to Canterbury, is on 1. 
 Nash Court, the seat of the Hawkins 
 family (now represented by the 
 Knatchbulls) since the reign of Edw. 
 III. Some early 17th cent, tapestry 
 is preserved here. | m. further is 
 the village of Boughton-under- 
 Blean, at which point the servant 
 of Chaucer's rich canon, the 
 
ROUTE 3. — THE BLEAN — DARGATE. 
 
 113 
 
 alchemist who could pave with gold 
 * all the road to Canterbury town,' 
 overtook the company of pilgrims. 
 Boughton Church contains an altar 
 tomb to Sir T. Hawkins, and several 
 15th and 16th cent, brasses. One is 
 unique in its way — partly illegible — 
 apparently to one Simon Abocton 
 (i.e. of Boughton). Boughton Hill 
 rises beyond the village ; and from 
 the top the traveller journeying E. 
 should look back over the road he 
 has already passed. This is one of 
 the great views of Kent, command- 
 ing a wide stretch of varied and 
 richly- wooded country, with an ex- 
 panse of sea dotted with Thames- 
 bound sails and fishing-boats. It 
 wants, however, the great historical 
 interest of the Thanet prospects. 
 
 From Boughton to Harbledown 
 the road passes through the Blean 
 district (Sax. blean = blain, a swelling 
 or hill), formerly the royal forest of 
 Blean, and still extensively wooded. 
 Until 1840 this district was extra- 
 parochial, and known as the * Ville' 
 of Dunkirk, a name given to it by 
 the smugglers who availed them- 
 selves of the hiding-places afforded 
 by the woods. The district was 
 formed in 1840 (when attention had 
 been drawn to its lawless character 
 by the Courtenay riots) into the 
 parish of Dunkirk, the church of 
 which stands on the summit of 
 Boughton Hill. Roads, affording 
 extensive views of the woodland 
 scenery are now being made through 
 that part of the Blean district which 
 is on the estate of E. S. Dawes, Esq. 
 \ m. beyond the hill a gate 1. leads 
 into Bossenden Wood, in which 
 (May, 1838) 'Sir William Courtenay, 
 the Knight of Malta,' after his re- 
 markable Canterbury pilgrimage 
 and his release from the County 
 Lunatic Asylum, to which he had 
 been removed after imprisonment 
 for perjury, was shot with 8 of his 
 followers. (The site of the ' battle ' 
 was in the woods, £ m. N.W. of 
 Bossenden Farm.) These, whom he 
 had collected from all the neighbour- 
 ing villages, regarded him as a 
 
 superhuman being, who was to 
 1 restore them their own/ His very 
 handsome face, which bore an ex- 
 traordinary resemblance to the usual 
 Italian type of the Saviour, no doubt 
 influenced his whole career, and ma- 
 terially assisted in procuring him 
 followers, with whose names the 
 trees in the wood are still marked. 
 An elaborate history of the 'rise, pro- 
 gress, and death 1 of Sir William — 
 who was in reality John Nichols 
 Tom, a maltster, of Truro — was 
 printed at Canterbury in 1838. If 
 the traveller wishes for a picturesque 
 bit of woodland scenery, combined 
 with fine views, he should take the 
 road I. on the top of Boughton Hill, 
 and walk across the Blean to the 
 hamlet of Dargate, whence he 
 may reach Canterbury through 
 Denstroud and Blean (6 m.). 
 
 A remarkable view of Canter- 
 bury Cathedral, terminating a 
 long stretch of straight road, 
 occurs shortly beyond at the Gaf>> 
 Inn Bill. It was here that the 
 pilgrims first caught sight of the 
 'golden angel' with which the 
 Great Tower was anciently crowned. 
 S. of the road, between Dunkirk and 
 Chartham, stretch the Fishpond Woods 
 (so named from the ponds, once part 
 of the surroundings of a decayed 
 manor house), affording pleasant 
 woodland walks. There are some 
 fine old oaks and beeches here. On 
 the top of a fir-covered hill, 1} m. 
 S. of the main road, one of the best 
 views of the Cathedral can be 
 gained. 
 
 The country is much broken on 
 either side, and the woods are full 
 of picturesque hollows and openings. 
 The true ' Canterbury bell ' abounds 
 in them. Everywhere occur hop- 
 gardens, with their oast-houses 
 (drying-ovens) like the air-fans on 
 the roofs of Egyptian houses. In 
 the middle growth the plantations 
 resemble low oak-coppices ; later, 
 the bright clusters and dark leaves 
 have a beauty of their own which 
 many a Rhenish vineyard ' combed 
 along the hills' might envy.] 
 
114 
 
 ROUTE 3. — SELLING — CANTERBURY. 
 
 55 J m. Selling (Stat.). 
 
 Here is an E.E. restored Church 
 of considerable interest. The E. win- 
 dow is early Dee., and contains in its 
 five lower lights a beautiful arrange- 
 ment of stained glass, well worth 
 notice. The central compartment in 
 each light has a canopy with a figure 
 under it, beneath which is a shield 
 of arms, in this order, counting from 
 the north : Clare, France, England 
 (the fourth is wanting), and 
 Warrene. The fourth is said to 
 have been Castile ; and the glass 
 dates from the end of the 13th cent. 
 Onl. are the churches of Boughton- 
 under-Blean (E. E. with Perp. 
 additions) and Hernhill ; in the 
 ch.-yard of the latter are buried the 
 * Courtenayites,' whose memory is 
 still precious with the poorer classes 
 (ante) ; the spot is on the N. side of 
 the ch., but the ground has been 
 purposely levelled. Hernhill Ch. 
 contains an ancient rood-screen and 
 font, and a modern reredos, the 
 marble pillars of which were made 
 from material brought from the ruins 
 at Rome. Mount Ephraim, command- 
 ing fine views of the Blean, is an 
 ancient house much enlarged and 
 modernized (E. S. Dawes, Esq.). 
 The rly. next winds under (seen 1.) 
 the ancient forest of the Blean 
 (see ante), a tract of wild country 
 stretching northward towards the 
 coast, and also reaching nearly to 
 Canterbury, the character of which 
 is indicated by the many names such 
 as Selling, Seldwich, Selgrave (An- 
 glo-Saxon, sel — wood, covert \ occur- 
 ing throughout it. Before and after 
 the Conquest the kings of England 
 made grants of large portions of it 
 to the neighbouring religious houses, 
 till nearly all was separated, from 
 the Crown. Thus it gradually lost 
 the privileges of a forest, and was 
 known only as 4 The Blean/ Wild 
 boar abounded in it as late as the 
 Reformation (Twine de Reb. Alb.). 
 The rare yellow pine-marten is still 
 occasionally found here. Much 
 chestnut is scattered through the 
 woods. On Skottenden Hill, S. of the 
 
 line, is a camp, probably Roman. It 
 has four irregular sides, which follow 
 the rounding of the hill, and is 
 worth visiting for the sake of the 
 wide view over all this part of Kent. 
 A large hoard of silver coins, of the 
 dates of Charles I. and II., was 
 found here about 1850. The twin 
 hill to Skottenden is Perry Wood, 
 covered with dark fir - trees, a 
 favourite resort for pic-nic parties. 
 From the 1 pulpit' on the summit 
 an extensive view is gained. At 
 58 m. the line approaches the 
 S. E. R. from Ashford, and runs side 
 by side with it till ]Iarbledown is 
 passed. It then crosses it at an 
 elevation which affords the best 
 possible view of the Cathedral, and 
 reaches at 
 
 6i| m. CAErTERBTTItY* Stat., 
 which immediately adjoins the Dane 
 John. The S. E. Rly. Stat, is out- 
 side the city, to the N.W. (Pop. 
 23,026). 
 
 Railways: L.C.D.R. to Dover (post) ; 
 S.E R. to Margate, Ramsgate (Rte. 7) ; 
 and Deal (Rte. 4) ; to WhitstabJe 
 (post) ; to Ashford (Rte. 7) ; to 
 Folkestone by Elham Valley (Rte. 2). 
 
 Having arrived at the ' capital of 
 Kent/ as Harris (Hist Kent) proudly 
 calls it, the visitor will do well to set 
 about its survey in a systematic 
 manner, and though he may thus 
 have to traverse a mile of ground 
 twice over he will find himself well 
 repaid. We should advise him to 
 proceed through the pleasure grounds 
 of the Dane John to St. George's 
 Street, and thence in a direct line to 
 the N.W. suburb of St. Dunstan's, 
 where a ch. of some interest and the 
 gateway of the mansion of the 
 Ropers, forming the entrance to a 
 brew-house, will attract his notice. 
 Having seen these, he should turn 
 back to the city, cross the S. E. R. on 
 the level, and fitting associations 
 for the lover of Chaucer will be at 
 once suggested by the gables of the 
 old houses on rt. Here was an 
 ancient hostel without the walls, for 
 pilgrims who arrived after the gates 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY : HISTORY. 
 
 115 
 
 were closed at nightfall. The West 
 gate, beyond, by which the city is 
 entered, is the work of Abp. Simon 
 of Sudbury (1374-81), who repaired 
 the greater part of the city walls, 
 then fallen into decay. The most 
 important portions of these walls 
 now remaining are in Broad Street 
 (on the E. side of the Cathedral), 
 where two or three of the turrets or 
 small watch-towers, orderly placed, 
 are still nearly perfect externally ; 
 inside they serve as walls to the 
 Prebendal Gardens. There were six 
 gates, of which the W. gate alone 
 now exists, thanks to a judicial town 
 council, who, having pulled down 
 the rest, thought it prudent to leave 
 this as an attraction for archaeological 
 visitors. The upper part of the gate, 
 together with the building adjoining, 
 serves as a police station. The whole 
 character of the city within is 
 ancient. Gabled ends and projecting 
 fronts run up the High Street ; and 
 although Mr. Ruskin points out 
 their diminutiveness as compared 
 with the grander masses of an old 
 continental town (as Sorbiere {1665) 
 had done before — 1 The houses 
 are low, and the stories scarce high 
 enough for a man of middle size, 
 who can touch the ceiling with his 
 hand'), there are here and there 
 rambling latticed fronts, behind 
 which we may imagine David 
 Copperfield's Agnes, and openings 
 through narrow lanes toward the 
 cathedral and its precincts, as pic- 
 turesque as the most exacting artist 
 can possibly demand. 
 
 The islands which the Stour here 
 formed in its windings, and its 
 position just at the point at which 
 the two estuaries (the greater Stour 
 here, and the lesser about Bridge, 
 3 m. distant) ceased to be navigable, 
 were the probable reasons which 
 induced the Britons of Kent to fix 
 their chief town here. The Roman 
 city, Durovernum (perhaps from the 
 Brit. Dur Guairn, i the Alder river,' 
 or Dur Gwern, ' the river of 
 marshes'), which took its place, 
 seems to have been irregular in form, 
 
 covering nearly the whole of modern 
 Canterbury. Of the mode of its 
 first occupation by the Saxons we 
 know nothing ; but in their hands 
 it at once became Canticarabyrig, 
 Canterbury, 4 the stronghold of the 
 men of Kent.' (Some interesting 
 notices of its condition at this time 
 will be found in Wright's Celt, Horn., 
 and Sckc). After the arrival of 
 Augustine (597) and the conversion 
 of Ethelbert, Canterbury rose in 
 importance as the spot from which 
 the rest of England was to be re- 
 Christianised, and afterwards as the 
 metropolitieal city. It was eclipsed, 
 however, on the extinction of the 
 kingdom of Kent, by the royal cities 
 of London and Winchester ; and in 
 spite of the great reputation of Abps. 
 Lanfranc and Anselm, Canterbury 
 itself was comparatively little heard 
 of, until the murder of Becket in 
 the cathedral (1170) lifted it at once 
 to an equality with the mosi sacw d 
 shrines of Europe. St. Augustine, 
 the former patron saint, gave place 
 to the new martyr. The three 
 Cornish choughs in Becket's coat 
 were inserted in the shield of the 
 town, and the common seal exhibited 
 the verse — 
 
 1 Ictibus immensis Thomas qui corruit ensis 
 Tutor ab ottensis urbis sit Cantuariensis.' 
 
 From this time ' Candelberg,' as our 
 German cousins were pleased to call 
 it, became universally celebrated. 
 Pilgrims from all parts of Christen- 
 dom hastened to pay their vows at 
 the tomb ; and ' Cantorbiere, la cite 
 vaillante,' took its place in the 
 verses of the Romancers, side by side 
 with Cologne, 'la Mirabel,' and 
 Compostella, the city of * Mon- 
 seigneur S. Jacques.' But the story 
 of Canterbury is best read in the 
 great buildings which still remain. 
 The visitor who desires fuller in- 
 formation than can be given here 
 must provide himself with Dean 
 Stanley's Historical Memorials of 
 Canterbury, Professor Willis's Archi- 
 tectural Histories of Canterbury Cathedral 
 and Monastery, and Handbook to the 
 
116 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY: THE CATHEDRAL. 
 
 Southern Counties of England (Mur- 
 ray), G-. H. Smith's History of Can- 
 terbury Cathedral, Brent's Canterbury 
 in the Olden Time, the vols, of the 
 Archccologia Cantiana ; and the papers 
 in the Diocesan Calendars also supply a 
 valuable fund of information. 
 
 Placing ourselves in the position 
 of Canterbury pilgrims, we may now 
 approach the Cathedral. At the W. 
 corner of Mercery Lane, opening 
 from the High Street, stood the 
 hostelry called the Checquers of the 
 Hope, at which Chaucer's company 
 reposed themselves. Grafton House 
 occupies great part of its site — the 
 old vaulted cellars remaining prob- 
 ably much the same as they were in 
 pilgrimage days. It was built (or 
 at all events enlarged) for the 
 especial accommodation of pilgrims 
 by Prior Chillenden (1390-1411). 
 4 The stone arches of the windows 
 extending down Mercery Lane 
 formed part of its lower storey. 
 The first opening W. of the lane 
 shows part of the court into which 
 the pilgrims rode ; but the spacious 
 chamber approached by stairs from 
 the outside, supported on wooden 
 pillars, and covered by a high- 
 pitched wooden roof, traditionally 
 known as the Dormitory of the Hun- 
 dred Beds, was destroyed by fire in 
 1865. The remains are completely 
 hidden by the shops at the corner 
 of the High Street and Mercery 
 Lane. Here we may imagine the 
 Miller and the Reve and the Ship- 
 man reposing, whilst the more dis- 
 tinguished pilgrims sought quarters 
 within the great monastery, or in 
 other religious houses. Mercery 
 Lane itself takes its name from the 
 shops and stalls which lined it. in 
 which the pilgrims sought memo- 
 rials of their visit, principally leaden 
 brooches representing the mitred 
 head of the saint, with the inscrip- 
 tion 1 Caput Thomae.' These and 
 the 'Ampulles' of water distri- 
 buted within the cathedral were 
 the great marks of a Canterbury 
 pilgrim, as the scallop-shell was of 
 Compostella, or the palm-branch of 
 
 Palestine. The parallel street, 
 ' Butchery Lane,' perhaps abounded 
 in stalls whence provisions were 
 bought. From these mercery-stalls 
 King John of France, on his return 
 from his captivity, bought 'a knife 
 for the Count of Auxerre.' At the 
 end of Mercery Lane was the Butter' 
 market, now an open space, on which 
 stands a memorial to Christopher 
 Marlowe, the dramatist, a native of 
 Canterbury. Here we are brought 
 immediately in face of the Christ 
 Church Gate, the principal entrance 
 from the city of the cathedral 
 precincts. 
 
 We may consider this Cathedral 
 as regards first its history ; second the 
 description of the various parts of 
 the building itself ; third the precincts 
 by which it is immediately sur- 
 rounded. 
 
 Its History. — No English cathedral 
 more completely dominates over the 
 surrounding town than Canterbury. 
 It has all the impressiveness of 
 some great natural feature, rock, or 
 mountain rising from the midst of a 
 broad level valley, and towering 
 above the heights on either side. It 
 must not be forgotten that it served 
 at once as the metropolitical ch., 
 and as that of a great monastery : 
 for as in the case of all missionary 
 churches, Augustine established a 
 convent here in connexion with his 
 cathedral. Lanfranc, after the Con- 
 quest, compiled a strict rule for it 
 and the other Benedictine mon- 
 asteries throughout England. It 
 was known as the Priory of Christ's 
 Church, and the massive wall by 
 which it was surrounded, rendering 
 it a fortress within a fortress, 
 perhaps served at once for defence 
 and for seclusion. The principal 
 entrance is Christ Church Gate- 
 way, fronting Mercery Lane. This 
 is a fine specimen of Perpendicular 
 work. Prior Goldstone (second of 
 that name) who died in 15 17, left a 
 sum of money to defray the cost of 
 its completion, as it was unfinished 
 at the time of his death. It is much 
 loftier than the old Norman gate- 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL! HISTORY. 117 
 
 ways. It is entered by a wide arch, 
 flanked by a postern doorway. The 
 towers (says Willis) were originally 
 carried above the parapet. In the 
 niche above the gateway once stood 
 an image of Christ. Passing within 
 it, we enter the precincts of the 
 Cathedral. 
 
 The site on which it stands is the 
 same on which stood the primitive 
 Roman or British church, granted ( as 
 Bede tells us) by King Ethelbert to 
 Augustine, and consecrated by him 
 in the name of the Saviour. Eadmer 
 expressly tells us that it resembled 
 in its arrangements the old Basilica 
 of St. Peter's at Rome, destroyed in 
 the 16th cent, (see Willis's Architec- 
 tural History of Canterbury Cathedral, 
 8vo. Lond. 1845, f° r an interesting 
 comparison of the two). The altar 
 is said to have been at the W. end, 
 with the episcopal throne behind it : 
 there was also in both a crypt in 
 imitation of the ancient catacombs 
 in which the bones of the Apostles 
 were originally found, the first be- 
 ginning of the crypt which still exists 
 at Canterbury. 
 
 It appears from a report published 
 in the Archwologia Cantiana, vol. 
 xviii. that investigations made in 
 the crypt led to the belief that the 
 lower part of the W. wall may have 
 been part of the pre-Norman crypt 
 • — and the character of the plaster 
 suggested at least the possibility that 
 it may have formed part of the build- 
 ing granted to St. Augustine. 
 
 Archbishop Odo (942-958) found 
 the building in a great state of di- 
 lapidation. He restored it through- 
 out, and enlarged it by heightening 
 the walls. The roof was then covered 
 with lead— perhaps the first example 
 of this work in England. 
 
 In the time of Archbishop Alphege 
 (commemorated by the name of St. 
 Alphege Ch., near the Cathedral) 
 the Danes attacked the city (a.d. 
 ioii). They captured the Arch- 
 bishop (who was afterwards mar- 
 tyred at Greenwich) and burnt the 
 Cathedral. It was again burnt in 
 the year 1067. 
 
 Archbishop Lanfranc rebuilt both 
 Church and Priory on a larger scale 
 (1070 -1077). The only probable re- 
 mains of this work are in the walls 
 of the nave inside ; the Martyrdom, 
 and the Crypt. Under Anselm, the 
 next archbishop (1093-1109), the 
 eastern part of this ch. (which had 
 not, seemingly, been intended to be 
 permanent) was taken down, and 
 re-erected with far greater magnifi- 
 cence, by the care of Ernulf, prior 
 of the monastery. His successor, 
 Prior Conrad, finished the chancel, 
 and decorated it with so much 
 splendour that it was henceforth 
 known as 'the glorious Choir of 
 Conrad/ The ch. thus finished was 
 dedicated by Abp. William in 1130. 
 Henry King of England, David King 
 of Scotland, and all the bishops of 
 England, were present at this dedi- 
 cation, the 'most famous,' Bays Ger- 
 vase, 4 that had ever been heard of 
 on the earth since that of the Temple 
 of Solomon.' Of this building there 
 remain Ernulf s crypt, the chapels 
 of St. Anselm and St. Andrew, and 
 outer walls of the Choir. It w;i^ in 
 this ch. that Becket was murdered 
 (1:70, and in the 'glorious Choir 
 of Conrad' that his body was 
 watched by the monks during the 
 succeeding night. Four years later 
 (1174^ this choir was entirely burnt 
 down. 'The people,' says (Jervase, 
 himself a monk of Ch. Ch., and an 
 eye-witness of the fire, 'were asto- 
 nished that the Almighty should 
 suffer such things, and, maddened 
 with excess of grief and perplexity, 
 they tore their hair, and beat the 
 walls and pavement of the ch. with 
 their hands and heads, blaspheming 
 the Lord and his saints, the patrons 
 of his Church,' — a frenzy rather 
 Italian than English, but curiously 
 illustrating the fierce excitability of 
 mediaeval times. The rebuilding 
 was intrusted to William of Sens, an 
 architect of 'lively genius and good 
 reputation,' who, beginning in Sept. 
 1 1 74, continued the work till 11 78, 
 when, just after an eclipse of the sun, 
 which Gervase seems to intimate had 
 
118 ROUTE 3 . — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: S. PORCH. 
 
 something to do with the accident, 
 ' through the vengeance of God, or 
 spite of the devil/ he fell from a 
 scaffolding raised for turning the 
 vault, and was so much injured that 
 he was compelled to return to France. 
 Another William succeeded him as 
 master architect, ' English by nation, 
 small in body, but in workmanship 
 of many kinds acute and honest.' 
 Under the care of English William 
 the choir and the eastern buildings 
 beyond it were completed in 1184, 
 ten years from the burning of Con- 
 rad's Choir. These buildings prac- 
 tically remain to this present time. 
 
 The great ceremony of translation 
 of Becket's relics occurred in 1220. 
 
 In 1305 Prior Henry of Eastry (or 
 de Estria) added the upper part of 
 the stone screen in the Choir. 
 
 Between 1378 and 1410, under 
 Prior Chillenden (notice the local 
 names of the Priors) the nave &c, 
 built by Lanfranc, were pulled down 
 (except the N.W. tower) and the 
 present nave, transepts and part of 
 central tower were built. 
 
 Priors Selling, and Goldstone (se- 
 cond) built the upper part of the 
 central tower in 1495. The erection 
 of the gateway (ante) brings us up 
 to the date of the Reformation. 
 
 The most extensive repairs under- 
 taken since then have been under 
 Dean Percy (1831% the new library 
 under Dean Alford (1868^, and the 
 reseating of the choir under the 
 present Dean (Dr. Payne-Smith) 
 1879. 
 
 The present building therefore ex- 
 hibits traces of all workmanship 
 from perhaps the date of Augustine 
 down to 15 1 7, including specimens 
 of nearly all classes of pointed archi- 
 tecture, notably Trans .-Norman and 
 Perp. Its gradual enlargements, 
 under Anselm and later, as well 
 as its general arrangements, arose 
 partly from the great wealth of relics 
 possessed by the ch., and the neces- 
 sity of finding shrine-room for dis- 
 playing them. The Saxon ch. con- 
 tained the bodies of St. Blaize ; St. 
 Wilfrid, brought from Ripon, ruined 
 
 by the Northmen in 950 ; St. Dun- 
 stan, St. Alphege, and other sainted 
 archbishops of Canterbury; St. Au- 
 doen, or Ouen, of Rouen, brought to 
 Canterbury about 957, besides relics 
 of St. Swithin of Winchester, and 
 others. All these were enclosed in 
 various altars, and in different 
 chapels, and were carefully removed 
 from the ruined ch. by Lanfranc. 
 They were replaced in the new 
 cathedral, where other similar trea- 
 sures were added to them, and where 
 they were at last joined by the 
 greatest of all, the martyred St. 
 Thomas of Canterbury. It should 
 also be remarked that the existing 
 cathedral, although of such various 
 dates, covers, as nearly as ' can be 
 ascertained, the same ground as the 
 original building of Lanfranc. 
 
 We may now enter the cathedral, 
 thronged with remembrances of al- 
 most every reign in English history. 
 Nearly all the archbishops, ' alterius 
 orbis papse ' (the words are first ap- 
 plied by Pope Paschal II. to Abp. 
 Anselm), before the Reformation are 
 buried here, and most of their tombs 
 remain. 'There is no ch., no place 
 in the kingdom, with the exception 
 of Westminster Abbey, that is so 
 closely connected with the history 
 of our country/ — Stanley. 
 
 The Building. — The principal en- 
 trance is still, as in Augustine's 
 church, the S. Porch. In the Saxon 
 period and later ' all disputes, from 
 the whole kingdom, which could not 
 be legally referred to theKing's Court, 
 or to the hundred's or counties,' were 
 judged in the Suth dure or porch, 
 which was generally built with an 
 apse, in which stood an altar. The 
 present porch is part of the work of 
 Prior Chillenden, about 1400. On 
 a panel above the entrance Erasmus 
 saw the figures of Becket's three 
 murderers, ' Tusci, Fusci, and Berri,' 
 whom he describes in his Colloquy 
 as sharing the same kind of honour 
 with Judas, Pilate, and Caiaphas, 
 when they appear on sculptured 
 altar-tables. These have quite dis- 
 appeared. In the portion that re- 
 
GROUND-PLAN OP CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL. 
 
 A. South Porch and Dunstan Tower. 
 
 B. North- West Tower. 
 C Nave 
 
 ]). North- West Transept (or Transept of the Martyrdom). 
 
 B. Deans', or Lady Chapel. 
 
 F. Door into Cloisters. 
 
 G. South-West Transept. 
 
 H. St. Michael's, or Warriors' Chapel. 
 L Choir. 
 
 J. North Choir Aisle. 
 
 K. South Choir Aisle. 
 L. L. Eastern Transepts. 
 
 M. St. Andrew's Tower. 
 
 N, St. Anselm's Tower. 
 
 0. Trinity Chapel. 
 
 P. Henry the Fourth's Chantry. 
 
 Q. Corona. 
 
 R. Descent to Crypt. 
 
 S. Great West Door. 
 
 T. Presbytery. 
 
 U. Entrance to French Church, 
 
 13- 
 14. 
 
 15. 
 
 16 
 
 18. 
 
 19. 
 20. 
 
 23. 
 24. 
 
 25. 
 26. 
 27. 
 28. 
 29. 
 30. 
 3i. 
 
 L 
 
 825 L 
 
 Site of St. Dunstan's Shrine. 
 ( Norman Wall, marking the 
 1 spot where Becket fell. 
 ) Monument of Abp. Peck- 
 I ham. 
 
 Monument of Ahp.Warham. 
 
 Monument of Abp.Chicheley. 
 ( Monument of Abp. 
 \ Bourchier. 
 { Site of 
 
 1 Becket's Shrine. 
 ( Monument of the 
 { Black Prince. 
 J Monument of King 
 \ Henry IV. 
 ( Monument of Abp. 
 1 Courtenay. 
 ( Monument of Car- 
 1 dinal Chatillon. 
 ( Monument of 
 1 Dean Wotton. 
 ( Monument of Car- 
 1 dinal Pole. 
 
 Abp. Walter, 
 j Mont, of Abp. Si- 
 l mon ofMepham. 
 J Tomb of Abp. An- 
 1 selm. 
 
 f Mon*. of Abp. Si- 
 1 mon of Sudbury, 
 f Monument of Abp. 
 1 Strafford. 
 ( Monument of Abp. 
 1 Kemp. 
 The Abp's Chair. 
 Prelate unknown. 
 ( Monument of Wal- 
 < ter Reynolds. 
 Mon*. of Margaret Holland and her two Husbands. 
 Tomb of Abp. Stephen Langton. 
 „ Abp. Tait. 
 
 „ Dean Lyall. ( Tomb of Abp. 
 
 „ Bp. Parry. 3 2, ) Sumner. 
 
 „ Saravia. 33. ( Tomb of Orlando 
 
 „ Bp. Broughton. 1 Gibbons. 
 
 „ Dean Neville. 
 „ Dean Fotherby. 
 
 D 
 
 32 
 
 32? 
 
120 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL * THE NAVE. 
 
 mains is still traceable an altar sur- 
 mounted by a crucifix, between the 
 figures of the Virgin and St. John : 
 beside it are fragments of a sword, 
 marking it as the * Altar of the 
 Martyrdom.' The arms in the 
 vaulting of the porch are probably 
 those of contributors towards the 
 rebuilding of the nave : among them 
 are England and France, the See of 
 Canterbury, Chichester, and Cour- 
 tenay. This porch has been re- 
 stored, and the niches of it and 
 of the W. front are filled with 
 statues by Pfyffers of Monarchs, 
 Archbishops, Bishops, Priors, and 
 Deans, from the time of St. Augus- 
 tine to our own days. They are the 
 gifts of various individuals. They 
 are arranged according to a scheme 
 propounded by the late Dean Alford. 
 
 We now enter the !N"ave. The 
 nave of Lanfranc's cathedral, which 
 covered t-he same ground as that 
 now existing, had in 1378 fallen into 
 a ruinous condition, when Abp. 
 Sudbury issued a mandate granting 
 40 days' indulgence to all contri- 
 butors towards its rebuilding. The 
 work was continued under his two 
 successors, Abps. Courtenay and 
 Arundel, the architect being proba- 
 bly Thomas Chillenden, prior of the 
 convent. The nave dates therefore 
 from about 1380. Chillenden died 
 1411. 'The style is a light Perp., 
 and the arrangement of the parts 
 has considerable resemblance to 
 that of the nave of Winchester, 
 although the latter is of a much 
 bolder character. Winchester nave 
 was going on at the same time with 
 Canterbury nave, and a similar un- 
 certainty exists about the exact 
 commencement. In both a Norm, 
 nave was to be transformed, but at 
 Winchester the original piers were 
 either clothed with new ashlaring, or 
 the old ashlaring was wrought into 
 new forms and mouldings where 
 possible ; while in Canterbury the 
 piers were altogether rebuilt. Hence 
 the piers of Winchester are much 
 more massive. The side aisles of 
 Canterbury are higher in proportion, 
 
 the tracery of the side windows dif- 
 ferent, but those of the clerestory 
 are almost identical in pattern, 
 although they differ in the manage- 
 ment of the mouldings. Both have 
 'lierne' vaults, and in both the 
 triforium is obtained by prolonging 
 the clerestory windows downward 
 and making panels of the lower 
 lights, which panels have a plain 
 opening cut through them, by which 
 the triforium space communicates 
 with the passage over the roof of 
 the side aisles.' — (Willis.) 
 
 The first impression, however, 
 differs greatly from that of Win- 
 chester, mainly owing to the height 
 to which the choir is raised above 
 the crypt below, and the numerous 
 steps which are consequently neces- 
 sary in order to reach it from the 
 nave. In this respect Canterbury 
 stands alone among both English 
 and foreign cathedrals. These 
 stately 'escaliers,' combined with 
 the height and grandeur of the piers, 
 breaking up from the pavement 
 like some natural forest of stone, 
 have always produced their effect 
 even in the darkest anti-Gothic pe- 
 riod. 'Entering in company with 
 some of our colonists just arrived 
 from America .... how have I seen 
 the countenances even of their 
 negroes sparkle with raptures of ad- 
 miration ! ' — (Gostling's Walk, 1770.) 
 Here the pilgrims waited, admiring 
 the 'spaciosa aedificii majestas,' and 
 deciphering the painted windows, 
 until the time came for visiting the 
 great shrine. ' The nave contained 
 nothing,' says Erasmus, 'except some 
 books chained to the pillars, among 
 them the Gospel of Nicodemus, and 
 the tomb of some unknown person.' 
 This may have been the tomb of 
 Abp. Whittlesey, d. 1374, now de- 
 stroyed. The Gospel of Nicodemus 
 had been printed by Wynkyn de 
 Worde in 1509. Of the nave stained 
 windows none remain entire, the 
 great W. window having been made 
 up of fragments from the others. 
 In this, under the point of the arch, 
 are the arms of Richard II. impaling 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: THE CHOIR. 121 
 
 the Confessor's, those of Anne of 
 Bohemia on N. side, and of Isabella 
 of France S. The memorial window 
 adjoining it S., and that under the 
 new tower N., are the work of G. 
 Austin, Esq. ; as are all the other 
 painted windows in this part of the 
 building — portions of a series, having 
 for its subject the Te Deum, which 
 is designed to fill the windows of 
 the nave. In the N. aisle of nave 
 are the monuments of Adrian Sa- 
 ravia, the friend of Hooker, who 
 died here a prebendary in 1612 ; 
 of Orlando Gibbons, organist to 
 Charles I. ; of Sir John Boys (d. 
 1614), founder of the hospital with- 
 out the North gate, and of Sir J. 
 Hales. Close at hand is the altar- 
 tomb with effigy of Abp. Sumner 
 (d. i862\ and in the sameaisle,under 
 a rich canopy, is an effigy of Dean 
 Lyall (d. 1857', by Phillips. Memo- 
 rials to officers and men of several 
 of the regiments engaged in Indian 
 campaigns have been placed against 
 the walls ; and in the S. aisle a re- 
 cumbent figure of Dr. Brought on, 
 Bp. of Sidney, an old King's scholar, 
 in English alabaster, by Lough. 
 The six panels in front bear the anus 
 of six of the Australian sees. In the 
 N. side of the nave aisle is a win- 
 dow, of four lights, to the memory of 
 Dean Stanley — at one time Canon 
 of Canterbury. On the N. side of 
 the nave is a cenotaph, or altar 
 tomb, by Forsyth, in memory of 
 Dr. Parry, Bishop of Dover (1869- 
 9O. It is of coloured marble and 
 alabaster. The recumbent figure is 
 in episcopal robes. In the end 
 panels the bishop is represented con- 
 firming and teaching : the central 
 panels contain statuettes of SS. 
 Martin, Augustine, Alphege and 
 Anselm. In the centre is the figure 
 of Our Lord, with the symbols of 
 the Evangelists. The angles dis- 
 play the arms of the see of Dover, 
 and the family of Parry. In the 
 nave is also a small mural tablet to 
 Lieut. Bennett — locally celebrated as 
 having fallen in the Courtenay 
 ' Battle ' at Bossenden Wood (see p. 
 
 io5\ In the nave are the colours 
 of the 31st Hunts Regiment, on the 
 N. side : and of the 13th Light In- 
 fantry on the S. side : suspended 
 over memorial tablets to officers of 
 those regiments. 
 
 The piers which support the cen- 
 tral tower are probably the original 
 piers of Lanfranc's erection, cased 
 with Perp. work by Prior Chillenden 
 at the same time with the building 
 of the nave. To this, Prior Gold- 
 stone II. (1495-1517) added the 
 vaulting of the tower, and all the 
 portion above the roof, together 
 with the remarkable buttressing 
 arches supporting the piers below, 
 which had perhaps shown some 
 signs of weakness. These arches 
 have on them the prior's rebus, a 
 shield with three gold stones. The 
 central arch occupies the place of 
 the ancient rood-loft, and probably 
 the great rood was placed on it until 
 the Reformation. 
 
 The western screen, through 
 which we enter the choir, completely 
 shutting it off from the nave, as the 
 choir was a monastic ch., has no re- 
 corded date, but is of the 15th 
 cent. It is very beautiful and elabo- 
 rate, and its carvings deserve the 
 most careful examination. Of the six 
 crowned figures in the lower niches, 
 the one holding a ch. is probably 
 Ethelbert, the others are uncertain. 
 Figures of the Saviour and his Apos- 
 tles originally filled the 13 mitred 
 niches encircling the arch, but were 
 destroyed by the Puritan 'Blue 
 Dick 'and his friends. The whole 
 screen, including the figures, has 
 been carefully restored. 
 
 On entering the Choir the 
 visitor is immediately struck by the 
 singular bend with which the walls 
 approach each other at the eastern 
 end. But this remarkable feature, 
 together with the great length of the 
 choir (180 ft.— it is the longest in 
 England) and the lowness of the 
 vaulting, the antique character of 
 the architecture, enforced by the 
 strongly contrasted Purbeck and 
 I Caen stone, and the consequent fine 
 
122 EOUTE 3 . — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL * THE SCREEN. 
 
 effects of light and shadow — all this 
 produces a solemnity not unfitting 
 the first great resting-place of the 
 faith in Saxon England, and carries 
 the mind more completely back into 
 the past than many a cathedral 
 more richly and elaborately deco- 
 rated. The choir, as it at present 
 exists, is the work of William of Sens, 
 and his successor English William 
 (1174-84^, by whom it was rebuilt 
 after the burning of that of Conrad. 
 Gervase, the contemporary monk, 
 supplies full details of all the opera- 
 tions, so that we are enabled to fol- 
 low the works year by year. (See 
 translation in Willis.) The style is 
 throughout Transition, having Norm, 
 and E.E. characteristics curiously 
 intermixed. The pillars with their 
 pier arches, the clerestory wall above, 
 and the great vault up to the tran- 
 septs, were entirely finished by Wil- 
 liam of Sens. The whole work 
 differed greatly from that of the 
 former choir. The richly foliated 
 and varied capitals of the pillars, 
 the great vault with its ribs of stone, 
 and the numerous slender shafts of 
 marble in the triforia, were all 
 novelties exciting the great admira- 
 tion of the monks. 
 
 The Cathedral of Sens must have 
 largely influenced the architect Wil- 
 liam : it dates from 1143 to 1168, 
 and must have been well known at 
 Canterbury from Becket's residence 
 there during his exile. It has several 
 peculiarities in common with Can- 
 terbury ; for example, double piers, 
 composed of two columns, set one 
 behind the other, foliated capitals, 
 rings on some of the slender shafts, 
 and the same system of vaulting. 
 The mouldings of William of Sens 
 are very varied, exhibiting a pro- 
 fusion of billet-work, zigzag and dog- 
 tooth — the first two characteristics 
 of Norm., the last of E. E. — a mix- 
 ture of ornaments in accordance with 
 the mixture of round and pointed 
 arches throughout. The triforium 
 exhibits this curiously, the outer 
 arch being circular, the two inner, 
 which it circumscribes, pointed. The 
 
 clerestory arches are pointed. The 
 stone vault was one of the earliest, 
 if not the very first, constructed in 
 England, and exhibits the same 
 mixture of styles. Some of the trans- 
 verse ribs are pointed, others round ; 
 the diagonal are all round. William 
 of Sens fell from the upper part of 
 the clerestory wall, a height of 50 ft., 
 whilst preparing to turn the portion 
 of this vault between the transepts. 
 Of this part he directed the com- 
 pletion from his bed, and the work 
 was then resigned to English Wil- 
 liam. The remarkable contraction 
 of the choir, at the head of the ch., 
 was rendered necessary from the 
 architect's desire of uniting his work 
 with the two towers of St. Anselm 
 and St. Andrew, which still remain 
 on either side. These had escaped 
 during the recent fire, and, as they 
 were not to be removed, they i would 
 not allow the breadth of the choir to 
 proceed in the direct line {Gervase). 
 It was also determined that a Chapel 
 of St. Thomas, the new martyr, 
 should be placed at the head of the 
 ch., in the room of the Chapel of the 
 Trinity, which had been destroyed ; 
 but the dimensions were to be pre- 
 served ; and as it was much nar- 
 rower than the choir, this last had to 
 be narrowed so as to coincide with 
 it. The second transepts already 
 existed in the former ch., and were 
 retained by William of Sens. 
 
 The best general views of the choir 
 will be obtained from the upper 
 stalls, N. and S., toward the W. end ; 
 here the full beauty of these tran- 
 septs is gained. The whole of the 
 windows in the transept clerestory 
 are filled with stained glass. New 
 choir- stalls, designed by Sir Gil- 
 bert Scott, were erected here in 1879, 
 replacing the 17th cent, fittings. At 
 the W. end of the choir are the stalls 
 of the members of the chapter, 
 erected after the Restoration of 
 Charles II. The carving is attributed 
 to Grinling Gibbons. 
 
 The Screen surrounding the 
 choir is the work, at least as far 
 as the arcaded upper part is con- 
 
ROUTE 3.— CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: ALTAR- SHRINES. 123 
 
 cerned, of Prior Henry de Estria 
 (constructed 1304-5), and is ' valu- 
 able on account of its well-as- 
 certained date, combined with its 
 great beauty and singularity/ — 
 (Willis.) The entire height is 14 ft. 
 The N. doorway remains perfect ; its 
 central pendent bosses are especially 
 remarkable. The visitor, if it be in 
 the winter, or in the evening, will 
 notice the striking effect when the 
 gas jets are lit. 
 
 The proper place of the altar was 
 below the long flight of steps, and 
 the removal to its present high 
 position took place only about 1825. 
 The effect is striking in some re- 
 spects, but there is the serious 
 objection that it takes off from the 
 appearance of height in the roof. 
 The great height to which the altar 
 is raised is the result of the new 
 crypt under St. Thomas's Chapel, E. 
 of the choir, which is much loftier 
 than the older choir crypt. Behind 
 it, E., was placed the metropolitan 
 chair, its ancient and true position, 
 still to be seen in many early conti- 
 nental churches (Torcello in the 
 Lagunes of Venice is an excellent 
 example). This chair was, however, 
 removed to the S. side of the S. choir 
 transept, and subsequently to the E. 
 end of Becket's crown. See post. 
 
 The Reredos, which was erected 
 behind the high altar (probably 
 during the 14th cent.), and formerly 
 occupied the place shown in the 
 plan, was destroyed by the Puritans 
 in 1642. It was succeeded by an 
 elaborate Corinthian screen, which 
 was removed a few years since. The 
 high altar before the Reformation 
 was most richly adorned ; and in a 
 grated vault beneath was a treasury 
 of gold and silver vessels, in presence 
 of which, says Erasmus, Midas, and 
 Croesus would have seemed but beg- 
 gars. The Puritans destroyed 4 a 
 most idolatrous costly glory cloth/ 
 presented by Laud. The present 
 altar is made of stalagmite and ala- 
 baster, and the front inlaid with rare 
 marbles. The super-altar is of Italia n 
 I walnut and ebony. The front panels 
 [Kent.] 
 
 contain four figures of angels, copied 
 from Fra Angelico's paintings. The 
 general treatment is intended to 
 harmonize with the architecture of 
 the choir. 
 
 The altar-cloth was worked by 
 the sisters of East Grinstead. It is of 
 crimson velvet. 
 
 Part of the screen within the 
 altar rails has been decorated. The 
 lowest part has been carved after 
 the fashion of the shrine of St. Dun- 
 stan, which stood near this spot. 
 Notice the figures of angels, with 
 musical instruments ; the lily pat- 
 tern, similar to that in the Chapter- 
 house ; and the statuette of St. L>un- 
 stan. 
 
 The Cross was given in 1886. It 
 has 74 rock crystals, 26 amethysts, 
 18 cornelians, 2 topazes, 40 rose- 
 diamonds, 30 pearls, 20 garnets, 4 
 carbuncles, and other stones. 
 
 A Corinthian throne, for the Arch- 
 bishop's use, of wainscot, carved by 
 Gibbons and presented by Abp. 
 Tenison in 1704, has been replaced 
 by a lofty canopy of stone taber- 
 nacle work, the gift of Abp. Howley. 
 
 The present organ is by Willis, 
 and was erected in 1886. It is worked 
 by electricity. The manipulation of 
 the keys is flashed through 120 ft. 
 cable to the action of the organ in 
 the triforium above. The patents of 
 this action are the invention of Mr. 
 Willis. The manuals have 58 notes ; 
 the number of stops 47 ; (4 manuals ; 
 and pedals). It is blown by water 
 power. The maintenance of the organ 
 costs not less than ^100 per annum. 
 
 Within the choir, before the Re- 
 formation, there were, besides the 
 high altar, the altar-shrines of St. 
 Alphege and St. Dunstan. That of 
 St. Alphege, the Abp. martyred by 
 the Northmen in 1012, whose body 
 was restored to Canterbury by Ca- 
 nute, is said to have been on the N. 
 side near the present altar. No trace 
 of it exists. On the S. wall of the 
 choir, between the monuments of 
 Abps. Stratford and Sudbury, still 
 remains some diaper-work of open 
 lilies, a part of the decoration of St. 
 
 L 
 
124 ROUTE 3. —CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: N. TRANSEPT. 
 
 Dunstan's shrine. The bodies of St. 
 Alphtge and St. Dunstan, 4 co-exiles 
 with the monks/ after the fire, says 
 Gervase, were re-conveyed into the 
 new choir with great ceremony. The 
 shrine of Dunstan was opened by 
 Abp. Warham in 1508, in conse- 
 quence of a dispute with the monks 
 of Glastonbury, who declared that 
 the body of the tongs-wielding saint 
 had been removed to Glastonbury 
 after the sack of Canterbury by the 
 Danes. A body, however, with a 
 plate of lead on the breast, inscribed 
 'Sanctus Dunstanus,' was found on 
 the opening of the shrine. A portion 
 of the saint's skull was then inclosed 
 in a silver reliquary, made in the 
 form of a head, and placed among 
 the other relics, which, in their 
 ivory, gilt, or silver coffers, were 
 exhibited to the pilgrims on the N. 
 side of the choir. Among them were 
 pieces of Aaron's rod, of the clay 
 from which Adam was made, and, 
 especially precious, the right arm of 
 1 our dear lord, the knight St. George/ 
 Each of these relics was devoutly 
 kissed, except by such ( Wickliffites' 
 as Dean Colet, who visited Canter- 
 bury with Erasmus in 15 12. 
 
 The monuments in the choir 
 will be best examined from the side 
 aisles. Leaving it again at the W. 
 door of the screen, we follow in the 
 track of the pilgrims, who were 
 usually conducted into the N. tran- 
 sept, called the Transept of the 
 Martyrdom, through the dark 
 passage under the choir steps. We 
 are now on the actual scene of the 
 murder ; but although the transept 
 was not injured by the fire which 
 consumed Conrad's choir, it was com- 
 pletely altered by Prior Chillenden 
 during the building of the present 
 nave. Lanfranc's ch. had closely 
 resembled that of the monastery of 
 St. Stephen at Caen, of which he 
 was abbot, and which was in build- 
 ing at the same time. In the transept 
 of St. Stephen's may still be seen the 
 arrangement which existed in that 
 of Canterbury at the time of Becket's 
 murder. 
 
 The transept was divided into an 
 upper and lower portion by a vault 
 open on the side of the nave, where 
 it was supported by a single pillar. 
 In the E. apse of the lower part was 
 the altar of St. Benedict ; in the 
 upper, that of St. Blaize. Many of the 
 Saxon archbishops also were buried 
 in the lower apse. There was a piece 
 of solid wall intervening between 
 this apse and two nights of steps, one 
 leading down into the crypt, the 
 other upward into the N. aisle of the 
 choir. In the W. wall a door opened 
 into the cloister. Becket, after the 
 violent scene in his chamber with 
 the knights, was dragged along the 
 cloister by the monks, and entered 
 the transept by this door, which, 
 after it had been barred by his at- 
 tendants, he flung open himself, say- 
 ing that i the ch. must not be turned 
 into a castle ; ' and the knights, who 
 had followed through the cloister, 
 now instantly rushed into the ch. It 
 was about 5 o'clock, Dec. 29, n 70, 
 0. S., and Tuesday, remarked as a 
 significant day in Becket's life, and 
 afterwards regarded as the weekday 
 especially consecrated to the saint. 
 The ch. must have been nearly dark, 
 with the exception of a few lamps 
 burning here and there before the 
 altars. Vespers had already com- 
 menced, but were thrown into utter 
 confusion on the news of the knights' 
 approach, and, when they entered 
 the cathedral, all the monks who 
 had gathered about Becket fled to the 
 different altars and hiding-places, 
 and there remained with him only 
 Robert, canon of Merton, his old in- 
 structor, William Fitz-Stephen, his 
 chaplain, and Edward Grim, a clerk 
 of Cambridge. They urged him to 
 ascend to the choir, and he had al- 
 ready passed up some steps of the 
 eastern flight leading to it, perhaps 
 intending to go to the patriarchal 
 chair at the high altar, when the 
 knights rushed in, and Reginald 
 Fitzurse, who was first, coming round 
 the central pillar, advanced to the 
 foot of the steps, and called out, 
 i Where is the archbishop ? ' Becket 
 
ROUTE 3.— CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: N. TRANSEPT. 125 
 
 immediately stopped, and returned 
 to the transept, attired in his white 
 rochet, with a cloak and hood thrown 
 over his shoulders. He took up his 
 station between the central pillar 
 and the massive wall between St. 
 Benedict's altar and the choir steps. 
 There the knights gathered round 
 him, and at first endeavoured to 
 drag him out of the church. But 
 Becket set his back against the pillar, 
 and resisted with all his might, 
 whilst G rim flung his arm round him 
 to aid his efforts. In the struggle 
 Becket threw Tracy down on the 
 pavement. After a fierce dispute, in 
 which the archbishop's language was 
 at least as violent as that of the 
 knights, Fitzurse, roused to frenzy, 
 struck off Becket's cap with his 
 sword. The archbishop then covered 
 his eyes with his hands and com- 
 mended himself to God, to St. Denys 
 of France, to St. Alphege, and the 
 other saints of the Church. Tracy 
 sprang forward and struck more de- 
 cidedly. Grim, whose arm' was still 
 round the archbishop, threw it up to 
 avert the blow ; the arm was nearly 
 severed, and Grim fled to the altar of 
 St. Benedict close by. The stroke 
 also wounded Becket, who after two 
 others, also from Tracy, fell flat on 
 his face before the corner wall. In 
 this posture, Richard le Bret, crying 
 'Take this for the love of my lord 
 William, the king's brother,' struck 
 him so violently that the scalp or 
 crown was severed from the skull, 
 and the sword snapped in two on the 
 pavement. Hugh of Horsea, the 
 chaplain of Robert de Broc, who was 
 with the knights, then thrust his 
 sword into the wound and scattered 
 the brains over the floor. This was 
 the final act. Hugh de Moreville 
 was the only one of the knights who 
 had struck no blow. He had been 
 holding the entrance of the transept . 
 The four knights then rushed from 
 the church through the cloisters, and 
 re-entered the palace, which they 
 plundered, carrying off from the 
 stables the horses, on which Becket 
 had always greatly prided himself. 
 
 We have now to see how far the 
 existing transept retains any memo- 
 rials of this scene, regarded through- 
 out Christendom as unexampled in 
 sacrilege since the crucifixion of our 
 Lord. And first, much of the ori- 
 ginal Norman walls were allowed to 
 remain in the transepts when Chil- 
 lenden rebuilt them at the same 
 time with the nave ; and portions of 
 Lanfranc's ashlaring are still visible 
 on the W. side of the N. transept, 
 around and above the doorway lead- 
 ing into the cloisters. This is, there- 
 fore, the actual doorway by which 
 Becket and the knights entered the 
 ch. Next, the wall between the chapel 
 of St. Benedict and the passage lead- 
 ing to the crypt, in front of which 
 the archbishop fell, still remains un- 
 altered : 'for the masonry of the 
 15th cent., which clothes every other 
 part of the transept, does not intrude 
 itself here, but is cut off many feet 
 above.' — {Willis.) Lastly, there is some 
 reason to believe that the pavement 
 immediately in front of the wall is 
 that existing at the time of the mur- 
 der. It is a hard Caen stone, and 
 from the centre of one of the flags a 
 small square piece has been cut out, 
 which is said to have been sent to 
 Rome. (A tradition, of uncertain 
 age, asserts that such a relic was 
 taken to Rome by the legates in 1 173, 
 and deposited in Sta. Maria Mag- 
 giore, w lie re a fragment of Becket's 
 tunic, and small bags, said to contain 
 portions of the brain, are still shown. 
 The older Kentish topographers, 
 however, down to Hasted, know no- 
 thing of the story ; and Baronius, 
 who mentions the other relics, says 
 nothing of the square of pavement. 
 See Canon J. C. Robertson's Life of 
 Becket) In front of the wall, and 011 
 a portion of the pavement, was 
 erected a wooden altar to the Virgin, 
 called 'Altare ad punctum ensis,' 
 where a portion of the brains was 
 shown under a piece of rock crystal, 
 and where were exhibited and kissed 
 by the pilgrims the fragments of Le 
 Bret's sword, which had been broken 
 on the floor. (The sword worn by 
 
 l 2 
 
126 EOUTE 3. — CANTEEBURY 
 
 CATHEDRAL : CHOIR AISLE. 
 
 Hugh de Moreville was preserved in 
 Carlisle cathedral, and is still to be 
 seen at BraytonHall in Cumberland. ) 
 In order that this altar might be 
 better seen, the pillar and vault 
 above were removed. The stairs also 
 up which Becket was ascending have 
 disappeared ; but the ancient ar- 
 rangement, precisely similar, may 
 still be seen in the S. transept. (The 
 cloisters are often entered from this 
 transept of the Martyrdom. For a 
 notice of them see post ) 
 
 The great window of the tran- 
 sept was the gift of Edward IV. and 
 his Queen, whose figures still remain 
 in it, together with those of his 
 daughters, and the two princes mur- 
 dered in the Tower. The 1 remark- 
 ably soft and silvery appearance ' of 
 this window is noticed by Winston. 
 In its original state the Virgin was 
 pictured in it ' in seven several glo- 
 rious appearances,' and in the centre 
 was Becket himself, at full length, 
 robed and mitred. This part was 
 demolished in 1642 by Rd. Culmer, 
 called Blue Dick, the great iconoclast 
 of Canterbury, who ' rattled down 
 proud Becket's glassie bones ' with 
 a pike, and who, when thus engaged, 
 narrowly escaped martyrdom him- 
 self at the hands of a ' malignant ' 
 fellow- townsman, who i threw a 
 stone with so good a will, that,, if St. 
 Richard Culmer had not ducked, he 
 might have laid his own bones 
 among the rubbish.' 
 
 In this transept is the monument 
 of Abp. Peekham (1279-1292^, 
 temp. Edw. I (whose marriage with 
 Margaret of France was solemnized 
 on this spot in 1299 by Peckham's 
 successor, Abp. Winchelsey). Peck- 
 ham's effigy is in Irish oak. Near it 
 is the tomb of Abp. Warham, Cram- 
 mer's predecessor, 1503-32. The 
 effigy is in full pontificals. Under 
 the rt. arm is the pastoral staff. At 
 the foot are two kneeling priests. 
 
 The site of the chapel of St. 
 Benedict, to the altar of which Grim 
 fled, is now occupied by the Deans' 
 or Lady Chapel, built by Prior 
 Goldstone (1449 68), in honour of 
 
 the Virgin. It has a rich fan-vault. 
 In it are the monuments of many of 
 the deans : that of Dean Fotherby 
 (1619) [who left by will a ring to 
 every member of the chapter], of 
 black marble, with representations 
 of every bone in the human body ; of 
 Dr. Bargrave (d. 1642), with the 
 copy of a Jan sen portrait, now in the 
 Deanery ; of Dean Boys, seated in 
 his study ; and of Dr. Turner, who 
 attended Charles I. at Hampton Court 
 and in the Isle of Wight, are the 
 most remarkable. Under the E. win- 
 dow are kneeling figures of Dean 
 Neville and his brother, whose ef- 
 figies, together with that of Dean 
 Wotton (see post), show the original 
 shape of surplice and hood. 
 
 From the transept of the Mar- 
 tyrdom we advance into the !N"orth 
 Aisle of the Choir. The walls of 
 the side -aisles, and the choir tran- 
 septs, were not destroyed by the fire 
 which consumed Conrad's choir, 
 and, although throughout altered 
 and enriched by William of Sens, 
 still retain portions of the original 
 work of Prior Ernulf, by whom the 
 rebuilding of Lanfranc's choir was 
 commenced during the episcopate of 
 Anselm. For a careful distinction 
 between the architecture of Ernulf 
 and William of Sens, see Willis. %he 
 arcade at the base of the wall in the 
 aisle is Ernulf's, and his piers and 
 arch-heads were retained in the 
 aisle-windows, which, however, were 
 raised by William about 3 ft. 8 in. 
 In the choir transept, the clerestory 
 windows of Ernulf's work are the 
 present triforium windows. The 
 arcade work and mouldings here, 
 and the present clerestory windows, 
 are all William of Sens'. There is a 
 marked difference, in the base- 
 mouldings and in the masonry of 
 the vaulting - shafts, between the 
 works of Ernulf and William, the 
 first being much plainer. Through- 
 out, William of Sens, whilst improv- 
 ing and enriching, seems to have 
 aimed at harmonizing his work with 
 Ernulf's ; hence his mixture of round 
 and pointed arches, and a certain 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL : MONUMENTS. 127 
 
 imitation in portions of ornamental 
 mouldings, purposely kept simple, 
 although very graceful in outline. 
 i Ernulf s carvings/ says Gervase, 
 1 were worked by an axe, and not a 
 chisel, like William's,' and the dif- 
 ference can readily be traced. The 
 stained windows in the lower part of 
 the aisle are of extreme beauty, and 
 deserve the closest attention. They 
 are of the same date and character 
 as those in the Trinity Chapel, to be 
 hereafter mentioned. The picture 
 of the Murder of Becket is by John 
 Cross (d. 1863^, and was presented 
 by a committee of his friends who 
 had purchased it after his death. Its 
 merits as a work of art are unfortu- 
 nately marred by a grievous want of 
 historical accuracy. On the corner 
 of the wall, adjoining the transept, 
 are the remains of a wall-painting 
 representing the conversion of St. 
 Hubert, or, according to other ac- 
 counts, of St. Eustace. In this tran- 
 sept is the altar tomb to Archbishop 
 Tait, erected in 1885. It is of white 
 marble. The effigy was executed in 
 Carrara marble by Sir J. Boehm. 
 The epitaph was written by Dean 
 Vaughan of Llandaff. There are 
 memorial windows here to Canon 
 Spry, and Canon Chesshyre of this 
 Cathedral. There is also one to Lord 
 Kingsdown — the style in imitation 
 of the old glass in the cathedral. 
 Its subject — strikingly treated— is 
 ' Judgment and Justice/ In the two 
 E. apses were the altars of St. Stephen 
 and St. Martin, and over them relics 
 of SS. Swithin and Vulgarius. The 
 bases of the arches, opening into 
 these apses, are William of Sens' 
 work, and very elegant. 
 
 At the end of the aisle, close 
 to the steps ascending to the retro- 
 choir, is the door of St. Andrew's 
 Tower, part of Lanfranc's building, 
 now used as a vestry, and formerly 
 the sacristy, in which the privileged 
 class of pilgrims were shown the 
 i wealth ' of silken robes and golden 
 candlesticks belonging to the ch., 
 Becket 's pastoral staff of pearwood, 
 with its crook of black horn, his 
 
 blood-stained handkerchief, and a 
 black leather chest, containing linen 
 rags with which he wiped his fore- 
 head and blew his nose. All knelt 
 when this chest was exhibited. This 
 chapel, which had been divided into 
 two storeys, has within the last few 
 years been thrown open by the re- 
 moval of the floor between them ; 
 the ancient painting of the roof has 
 been brought into sight, and the E. 
 end has been restored after the pat- 
 tern of the corresponding chapel 
 (St. Anselm's) on the S. side. 
 
 On the choir side of the aisle is 
 the monument of Henry Chicheley 
 (1413 -44/, theAbp. of Henry V. and 
 of Agincourt, the instigator of the 
 last great war of conquest in France. 
 This monument was erected by him 
 during his life, and, like his college 
 of All Souls, may possibly indicate 
 'his deep remorse for this sin,' 
 which seems also indicated in a 
 letter to the Pope. The monument 
 is remarkable in many respects. 
 Above is the figure of the Arch- 
 bishop in full canonicals ; below 
 the cadaver, or naked corpse. The 
 figures in the niches and perhaps 
 
 I the crosier are of later date 
 than the rest of the tomb. It 
 
 i is kept in repair and colour by the 
 
 ! Warden and Fellows of All Souls. 
 Beyond is a recumbent figure of 
 Abp. Howley buried at Adding- 
 ton, for which place this monument 
 
 I was originally destined. This is the 
 first monument of an archbishop 
 placed in the cathedral since the 
 Reformation. Those of Sumner and 
 Tait have since been added. Be- 
 tween the last two piers of the choir 
 is the monument of the Cardinal 
 Abp. Bourchier (1454-86). The tomb, 
 which has a lofty canopj^, much en- 
 riched, displays the Bourchier knot 
 among its ornaments : all the details 
 deserve attention. A great resem- 
 blance has been traced between the 
 altar of this tomb and those of 
 Richard II. and Edward III. in 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 The great loftiness of the crypt 
 under the new Trinity Chapel. 
 
128 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: BECKETS SHRINE. 
 
 rendered necessary the steep flights 
 of steps by which it is reached from 
 the choir aisles. Up those on the 
 S. side the pilgrims climbed on their 
 knees, and the indentations on the 
 stones yet tell of the long trains of 
 worshippers by which they have 
 been mounted age after age. This 
 ' long succession of ascents, by 
 which church seemed piled upon 
 church/ may have suggested the 
 hymn to St. Thomas : — 
 
 'Tu per Thomae sanguinem 
 Quern pro te impendit, 
 Fac nos Christo scandere 
 Quo Thomas ascendit.' 
 
 {Stanley.) 
 
 The whole of this part of the 
 Cathedral, from the transepts to the 
 extreme E. end, is the work of Eng- 
 lish William. It is marked by a 
 lighter character than that of 
 William of Sens, though its main 
 features are the same. In the side 
 aisles, and in the E. apse or corona, 
 English William's style is best dis- 
 tinguished. His 1 slender marble 
 shafts ' are so detached and com- 
 bined, as to produce ' a much greater 
 lightness and elegance of effect than 
 in the work of the previous archi- 
 tect ' (Willis), and a single order of 
 mouldings is used throughout. 
 
 In the ancient chapel of the 
 Trinity, burnt at the same time 
 with Conrad's choir, Becket had 
 sung his first mass after his instal- 
 lation as archbishop ; and after the 
 rebuilding, this was the spot chosen 
 for his shrine — toward the ancient 
 position of which the stranger first 
 turns, in spite of the stately tombs 
 around him. The place where the 
 shrine stood is exactly ascertained 
 by the mosaic of the pavement, a 
 fragment of the ' Opus Alexan- 
 drinum,' with which most of the 
 Roman basilicas are paved (portions 
 of a similar pavement remain in 
 Westminster Abbey about the shrine 
 of the Confessor). Some of the zodiac 
 signs may be traced on it. Of this 
 pavement Mr. J. W. Warman says 
 ' I have been able to identify the 
 greater portion of the present pave- 
 
 ment which covers the space formerly 
 occupied by the shrine as consisting 
 of the actual steps which once fur- 
 nished the kerb of the shrine plat- 
 form. The destruction of the shrine 
 having left a large open, unpaved 
 space, nothing was more natural 
 than that material which was ready 
 to hand . . . should be used for filling 
 up the gap' (Smith's Hist, of Cant. 
 Cathedral). 
 
 On the morning after the murder, 
 the body of Becket, for fear of the 
 knights, who threatened yet further 
 to dishonour it, was hastily buried 
 at the east end of the crypt. Here 
 it remained after his solemn canon- 
 ization by the pope, Alexander III., 
 in 1 1 73, and after the fire of 1174, 
 until the new choir and chapels had 
 for some time been completed, and 
 everything was duly prepared for 
 its translation. This took place on 
 Tuesday, July 7th, 1220, after two 
 years' notice circulated throughout 
 Europe, and before such an assem- 
 blage as had never been collected 
 in any part of England before. The 
 Abp., Stephen Langton, with all the 
 monks of the convent, opened the 
 tomb in the vault the night before. 
 The next day, the archbishops 
 of Canterbury and Rheims, and 
 Hubert de Burgh, grand justiciary 
 of England, carried on their 
 shoulders the chest containing the 
 bones up to the shrine prepared for 
 them behind the high altar. Nearly 
 all the bishops of the province of 
 Canterbury were present, and the 
 procession was led by the young 
 king, Henry III., then only 13. 
 For this great function perhaps the 
 existing patriarchal chair was pre- 
 pared, and also the existing ancient 
 windows in Becket's crown, and in 
 the Trinity chapel. 'In 1887 a 
 hollow was discovered in the crypt, 
 extending 3 ft. below the surface 
 and filled in with rubble, which 
 seemed to indicate the position 
 occupied by Becket's coffin from 11 70 
 to 1220. The tomb stood here from 
 1 1 70 to 1538/ (Arch. Cant. vol. 
 xviii. ). Of the shrine itself, a draw- 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: BECKETS SHRINE. 129 
 
 ing remains among the Cottonian 
 MSS., and it is also represented in 
 one of the stained windows. It 
 resembled that of St. Cuthbert at 
 Durham. The altar of St. Thomas 
 stood at the head of it. The lower 
 part was of stone and on marble 
 arches, against which the sick and 
 lame pilgrims were allowed to rub 
 themselves in hope of a cure. The 
 mass of worshippers did not pass 
 beyond the iron rails that sur- 
 rounded it. The shrine itself rested 
 on the marble arches, and was 
 covered by a wooden canopy, which 
 at a given signal was drawn up, 
 4 and the shrine then appeared 
 blazing with gold and jewels ; the 
 wooden sides were plated with gold 
 and damasked with gold wire, and 
 embossed with innumerable pearls 
 and jewels and rings, cramped to- 
 gether on this gold ground.' (Stanley. ) 
 4 Within/ says Stowe, 4 was a chest 
 of iron, containing the bones of 
 Thomas Becket, skull and all, with 
 the wounds of his death, and the 
 piece out of his skull. As all fell 
 on their knees, the prior came for- 
 ward and touched the several jewels 
 with a white wand, naming the 
 giver of each. One was supposed to 
 be the finest in Europe. It was a 
 great carbuncle or diamond, as large 
 as a hen's egg, called 4 the Regale of 
 Prance,' and presented by Louis VII. 
 of France, who, said the legend, was 
 somewhat unwilling to part with so 
 great a treasure ; but the stone leapt 
 from the ring in which he wore it, 
 and fastened itself firmly into the 
 shrine — a miracle against which 
 there was no striving. The stone 
 itself burnt at night like a fire, and 
 would suffice for a king's ransom. 
 Louis was the first French king who 
 ever set foot on English ground. He 
 had visited the tomb in the crypt 
 in 1 1 79, and, being 4 very fearful of 
 the water,' he obtained St. Thomas's 
 promise that neither he nor any 
 other person crossing from Dover to 
 Whitsand or Calais should suffer 
 shipwreck. Here also came Richard 
 on his liberation from his Austrian 
 
 dungeon, walking barefoot from 
 Sandwich to give thanks to 4 God 
 and St. Thomas.' John followed 
 him, and every succeeding English 
 king and their great foreign visitors 
 did repeated homage at the upper 
 shrine. Edward I. (1299") offered 
 here no less a gift than the golden 
 crown of Scotland. Henry V. was 
 here on his return from Agincourt. 
 Manuel, the Emperor of the East, 
 paid his visit to Canterbury in 1400 ; 
 Sigismund, Emperor of the West, in 
 1417. In 1520 Henry VIII. and the 
 Emperor Charles V. knelt here to- 
 gether, 4 They rode together from 
 Dover, on the morning of Whit- 
 sunday, and entered the city through 
 St. George's gate. Under the same 
 canopy were seen both the youthful 
 sovereigns ; Cardinal Wolsey was 
 directly in front ; on the right and 
 left were the proud nobles of Spain 
 and England ; the streets were lined 
 with clergy, all in full ecclesiastical 
 costume. They lighted off their 
 horses at the W. door of the 
 cathedral ; Warham was there to 
 receive them ; together they said 
 their devotions — doubtless before 
 the shrine.' — (Stanley.) Myriads of 
 pilgrims of all countries and of all 
 ranks thronged year alter year 
 toward ( anterbury, 4 the holy bliss- 
 ful martyr for to seek,' after the 
 fashion of that immortal company 
 which shines in the pages of Chaucer 
 witli a glory more lasting than that 
 of the 4 great Regale ' itself ; and 
 churches were dedicated to him 
 throughout every part of Christen- 
 dom, from Palestine to Scotland. A 
 figure and plan of the shrine are 
 given in Smith's Hist, of Cant. 
 Cathedral, and a description of a 
 pilgrimage to it, in the 15th cent, 
 by Erasmus in his Peregrinatio ; 
 also by Stowe in his Chronicle. 
 
 The Vigil of the Translation, July 
 6, had always been kept as a solemn 
 fast in the English Church until 
 1537 when, a sign of greater changes 
 to come, Abp. Cranmer 4 ate flesh ' 
 on the eve, and 4 did sup in his hall 
 with his family, which was never 
 
130 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY 
 
 CATHEDRAL : MONUMENTS. 
 
 seen before.' In April, 1538 (such 
 at least was the story believed at the 
 time on the Continent), a summons 
 was addressed in the name of Henry 
 VIII. 4 to thee, Thos. Becket, some- 
 time Abp. of Canterbury/ charging 
 him with treason, contumacy, and 
 rebellion. It was read at the shrine, 
 and 30 days allowed for Becket's ap- 
 pearance ; as this did not occur, the 
 case was argued at Westminster by 
 the attorney-general for Henry II., 
 and by an advocate appointed by 
 Henry VIII, for Becket. The first, 
 of course, prevailed, and sentence 
 was pronounced that the arch- 
 bishop's bones should be burnt, and 
 the offerings forfeited to the Crown. 
 In September the important part of 
 this sentence was carried into effect. 
 The bones, it is said, were not burnt, 
 but buried, the jewels and gold of the 
 shrine were carried off in two coffers 
 on the shoulders of seven or eight 
 men, and the remaining offerings 
 filled 26 carts. (The annual offer- 
 ings at the shrine, at the begin- 
 ning of the 16th cent., when they 
 had much decreased in value, 
 averaged about £4,000 of our 
 money.) The 4 Regale' was long 
 worn by Henry in his thumb-ring. 
 Finally, an order appeared that 
 Becket was no longer to be called a 
 saint, but ' Bishop Becket ' ; that 
 his images throughout the realm 
 were to be pulled down, and his 
 name razed out of all books. This 
 last injunction was rigidly carried 
 out. ' The name of Geta has not 
 been more carefully erased by his 
 rival brother on every monument of 
 the Roman empire.' — [Stanley.) At 
 this time also Becket's Cornish 
 choughs were removed from the 
 arms of the city, but they have been 
 restored. In 1888 a coffin was dis- 
 covered in the crypt, containing 
 human bones, believed by some 
 authorities to be those of Abp. 
 Becket, but the question has not 
 been as yet settled. 
 
 Becket's figure was still allowed 
 to remain here and there in stained 
 windows, and fortunately some of 
 
 those which once entirely sur- 
 rounded Trinity Chapel were of the 
 number. The windows here and 
 in the Corona and in the N. choir 
 aisle should be most carefully 
 examined. They are of the 13th 
 cent., and very fine, c and for excel- 
 lence of drawing, harmony of colour- 
 ing, and purity of design, are justly 
 considered unequalled. The skill 
 with which the minute figures are 
 represented cannot even at this day 
 be surpassed.' In the N. choir 
 aisle are scenes from Old and New 
 Test. History. In the centre tri- 
 forium window of that aisle is the 
 carrying off of Abp. Alphege. In 
 the central corona window are 
 scenes in the life of our Lord. 
 
 Between the first two piers of the 
 Chapel, S., is the monument of 
 Edward the Black Prince, ' the 
 most authentic memorial remaining 
 of the first of a long line of English 
 heroes.' — {Stanley.) He had already 
 founded a chantry in the crypt (see 
 post), on the occasion of his marriage 
 with the ; Fair Maid of Kent ' ; and 
 his will, dated June 7, 1376, the day 
 before his death, contains minute 
 direction for this monument, and 
 for his interment, which he orders 
 to be in the crypt. For some un- 
 known reason this was disregarded, 
 and he was buried above ; his tomb 
 being the first in what was then 
 thought to be the most sacred spot 
 in England. The effigy is in brass, 
 and was once entirely gilt. (See it 
 in this state at the Crystal Palace, 
 Sydenham.) The Plantagenet fea- 
 tures are traceable, 1 the flat cheeks, 
 and the well-chiselled nose, as in the 
 effigy of his father at Westminster 
 Abbey and of his grandfather at 
 Gloucester.' Above are suspended 
 the brass gauntlets, the 1 heaume du 
 leopard' — 'that casque, which never 
 stooped except to time ' — lined with 
 leather, 1 a proof of its being actually 
 intended for use ' ; the shield of 
 wood, covered with moulded leather, 
 the velvet surcoat with the arms of 
 France and England, and the scab- 
 bard of the sword. The sword itself 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: MONUMENTS. 131 
 
 Cromwell is said to have carried 
 away. Round the tomb are the os- 
 trich-feathers with the mottoes used 
 by him — Houmont (hoch muth, high 
 spirit), and Ich dien. On the canopy 
 of the tomb is a representation of the 
 Trinity, reverenced with 1 peculiar 
 devotion ' by the Prince, and on 
 whose feast he died. It is remark- 
 able from the absence of the Dove 
 usually introduced in similartablets. 
 Round the tomb are hooks for the 
 hangings bequeathed in his will — 
 black with red borders embroidered 
 with ' Cygnes avec tetes de dames.' 
 The Prince's will provided that his 
 body should be met at the W. gate 
 of Canterbury by two chargers fully 
 caparisoned and mounted by two 
 riders, one to represent him as in 
 war, the hero of Crecy and Poictiers ; 
 the other in black as at tourna- 
 ments. (See further, as to this 
 matter, in Stanley's Hist. Mem.) 
 
 Immediately opposite, N., is the 
 tomb of Henry IV, and of his 
 second wife, Joan of Navarre. The 
 king's will ordered that he should 
 be buried ' in the church at Canter- 
 bury ' (he had given much toward 
 the building of the new nave), and 
 his body was accordingly brought 
 by water to .Faversham, thence by 
 land to Canterbury, and on the Trin. 
 Sunday after his death (14 13) the 
 funeral took place in the presence 
 of Henry V and all the ' great no- 
 bility.' Joanna of Navarre died at 
 Havering, 1437 ; and the monument 
 is probably of her erection. The arms 
 are those of England and France, 
 Evreux and Navarre. The ground of 
 the canopy is diapered with the word 
 ' soverayne ' and eagles volant, the 
 king's motto and device, and with 
 ermines collared and chained, and 
 the word ' atemperance,' the queen's. 
 These are transposed, the ermines 
 being above the king's effigy. It was 
 in after times asserted by theYorkists 
 that the king's body had been thrown 
 into the Thames, between Barking 
 and Gravesend. There had been a 
 great storm, and, after this Jonah 
 offering, a calm. 4 Whether the king 
 
 was a good man, God knows/ said 
 Clement Maydeston's informant. 
 (Wharton's Aug. Sacra, ii.) The 
 coffin was, however, brought to Can- 
 terbury, and solemnly interred. In 
 consequence of this story the tomb 
 was opened (Aug. 21, 1832) in the pre- 
 sence of Dean Bagot and others. 
 Two coffins were found, but that 
 of the king could not be removed 
 without injury to the monument 
 above. The upper part was there- 
 fore sawed through, and after re- 
 moving a thick layer of hay, on 
 the surface of which lay a rude cross 
 of twigs, an inner case of lead was 
 discovered : which being also sawed 
 through, the lower half of the head 
 of the body it contained was un- 
 wrapped from its foldings ; 'when, to 
 the astonishment of all present, the 
 face of the deceased king was seen 
 in complete preservation : the nose 
 elevated ; the beard thick and matted, 
 and of a deep russet colour ; and the 
 jaws perfect, with all the teeth in 
 them, except one fore-tooth whieh 
 had probably been lost during the 
 king's life.' The whole was re- 
 placed after examination. 
 
 In the N. wall of Trin. Chapel, 
 beyond this tomb, is a small chantry 
 founded by Henry IV, 'of twey 
 priestes for to sing and pray for my 
 soul.' The fan vault is rich. At 
 the feet of the Black Prince is the 
 monument of Abp. Courtenay the 
 severe opponent of the Wickliffites 
 (d. 1396) ; why erected in this most 
 distinguished place does not ap- 
 pear. He was, however, executor 
 to the Black Prince, and a great 
 benefactor to the cathedral. E. of 
 Henry IV. is a kneeling figure, 
 by Bernini, of Dean Wotton, re- 
 markable as being in choir vest- 
 ments, i. e. surplice and hood, the 
 first Dean of Canterbury after 
 the foundation of the Collegiate 
 Church by Henry VIII. Beyond 
 Abp. Courtenay lies Odo Coligny, 
 Cardinal Chatillon, who, on account 
 of his Huguenot tendencies, fled to 
 England in 1568, and was favourably 
 received by Elizabeth. He died at 
 
132 ROUTE 3. CANTERBURY 
 
 CATHEDRAL: ANSELM S TOWER. 
 
 Canterbury, on his way to France, 
 poisoned by an apple given him by 
 one of his servants. 
 
 The great lightness and beauty of 
 the Corona, commonly called 
 Becket's Crown, the extreme E. 
 end of the cathedral are remark- 
 able. It is English William's work. 
 In it were the shrines of Abps. 
 Odo and Wilfrid of York, and a 
 golden reliquary in the form of a 
 head, containing some relic of 
 Becket, perhaps the severed scalp. 
 On the N. side is the rude, un- 
 finished tomb of Cardinal Pole, — 
 Queen Mary's archbishop (1556-58), 
 and the last archbishop buried at 
 Canterbury. His royal blood gave 
 him a title to so distinguished a 
 place of sepulture. In the Crown 
 is placed the Patriarchal Chair, 
 about which tradition has been 
 busy. It is said to have been the 
 coronation throne of the kings of 
 Kent, and to have been given by 
 Ethelbert to St. Augustine. Its 
 history, however, cannot be traced 
 earlier than the 13th cent. Per- 
 haps it was introduced at the trans- 
 lation of Becket's remains. Herein 
 the archbishops are enthroned. It 
 formerly stood behind the high 
 altar, then was placed in the S.E. 
 transept, afterwards moved here. 
 The material is Purbeck marble. 
 
 In the S. aisle of the chapel is 
 a tomb which was examined in 
 1890. In it were found the remains 
 of Abp. Walter who d. 1205. 
 They were clad in full pontificals. 
 This tomb had been previously 
 called Abp. Theobald's. It is the 
 oldest tomb in the cathedral. 
 
 Passing W. down the pilgrim- 
 worn steps, we come to St. An- 
 selm's Tower and Chapel. The 
 chapel was restored by Canon 
 Holland, in 1888. It is now used 
 for early celebration of Holy Com- 
 munion. During the restoration the 
 wall painting, of the 12th cent, 
 (representing St. Paul shaking off 
 the serpent at Melita) was dis- 
 covered — the colours almost as fresh 
 
 as when newly painted. The S. 
 window was perhaps in memory of 
 Abp. Mepham. In this chapel, 
 by the S. wall, Abp. Bradwardine 
 was buried in 1349. The screen of 
 the chapel is formed by the tomb of 
 Abp. Simon de Mepham (1328- 
 33), ' a beautiful and singular work, 
 consisting of an altar-tomb placed 
 between a double arcade/ This 
 archbishop was worried to death by 
 Grandison, Bp. of Exeter, who re- 
 sisted his visitation as Metropolitan, 
 and at last encountered the arch- 
 bishop with a company of armed 
 followers at the W. door of Exeter 
 Cathedral. ' This affront did half 
 break Mepham's heart,' says Fuller : 
 4 and the Pope, siding with the bishop 
 against him, broke the other half 
 thereof.' He returned to Kent and 
 died. The chapel was originally 
 dedicated to SS. Peter and Paul. 
 During the 18th cent, it was used 
 as the vestry. 
 
 Anselm's Tower is part of Prior 
 Ernulf's work, like St. Andrew's 
 opposite. The original S. window 
 was replaced by an elaborate Dec. of 
 five lights, by Prior Henry de Estria 
 in 1336. There were pendant bosses 
 in the heads of the lights, like those 
 of his choir screen door ; but these 
 have disappeared. At the E. end 
 was the altar of SS. Peter and 
 Paul, and behind it was buried 
 Anselm ( 1093- 1 109) ; of all the 
 archbishops, with the exception of 
 Becket, the most widely renowned 
 throughout Europe. 
 
 Above the chapel is a small room, 
 with a window looking into the 
 Trinity chapel, which served as the 
 'watching chamber,' in which a 
 monk was nightly stationed to keep 
 ward over the rich shrine of St. 
 Thomas. 'On the occasion of fires 
 the shrine was additionally guarded 
 by a troop of fierce ban-dogs.' The 
 watching chamber is said, but with- 
 out authority, to have been used as the 
 prison of King John of France. Be- 
 tween the first two piers of the choir, 
 W. of Anselm's Chapel, is the tomb 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: S.E. TRANSEPT. 133 
 
 of Simon de Sudbury (1375-81), 
 the archbishop who built the W. 
 gate and much of the city walls ; 
 who reproved the 4 superstitious ' 
 pilgrimages to St. Thomas, crowned 
 Richard II., and was himself be- 
 headed by the Kentish rebels under 
 Wat Tyler. i Not many years ago, 
 when this tomb was accidentally 
 opened, the body was seen within, 
 wrapped in cerecloth, a leaden ball 
 occupying the vacant space of the 
 head.' — {Stanley.) In commemora- 
 tion of the benefits Sudbury bestowed 
 on the town, the mayor and alder- 
 men used to pay an annual visit to 
 his tomb, 1 to pray for his soul. ' 
 Next to this monument, W., is the 
 canopied tomb of Abp. Stratford 
 (1333-48)— Edward III.'s Grand 
 Justiciary during his absence in 
 Flanders ; and below is the tomb of 
 Abp.Kempe (i452-54\surmounted 
 4 by a most curious double canopy or 
 tester of woodwork/ 
 
 The S.E. Transept, which wo 
 have now reached, has the same 
 architectural character as the N. — 
 William of Sens' work on Ernulf s 
 walls, completed by EnglishWilliam. 
 In the two apses were the altars of 
 St. John and St. Gregory, with the 
 tombs or shrines of four Saxon arch- 
 bishops. Below the easternmost 
 window in the S. wall are some in- 
 dications, in the broken pillars, of 
 the tomb of Abp. Wmchelsey 
 (1294-1313^, who was buried, 
 according to an old chronicle, 1 in a 
 goodly tombe of marble, at the very 
 but ende, yn the waulle side,' whose 
 contest with Edward I. touching 
 clerical subsidies, and whose great 
 almsgiving — 2,000 loaves every 
 Sunday and Thursday to the poor 
 when corn was dear, and 3,000 when 
 cheap — caused him to be regarded 
 as a saint. Oblations were brought 
 to his tomb, but the pope would not 
 consent to canonize him. His tomb 
 is said to have been destroyed at the 
 same time as Becket's shrine. 
 
 W. of the transept, against the S. 
 wall of the choir, is the mutilated 
 
 effigy of a prelate who has not been 
 identified, and beyond is Walter 
 Reynolds (1313-27% the courtier 
 archbishop of Edward II., whom he 
 deserted in his adversity. 
 
 The steps leading down into the 
 S. transept, W. indicate the same 
 arrangement as that of the Martyr- 
 dom at the time of Becket's murder. 
 The transept itself is part of Chillen- 
 den's work. The stained glass of 
 the S. window — much of it, as well 
 as of that in the great W. window, 
 taken from the clerestory of the 
 choir — should be noticed. In the 
 pavement, close at the foot of the 
 stairs descending from the tower, is 
 the tombstone of Meric Casaubon, 
 Abp. Laud's prebendary, d. 1671 ; 
 adjoining is that of Shuckford of the 
 ' Connection.' 
 
 Opening E. from this transept 
 is St. Michael's or the Warriors' 
 Chapel. The builder is unknown. 
 It is Perp. about 1370, with a 'com- 
 plex Heme vault.' In it are ' sundry 
 fair monuments.' The central one 
 is that erected by Margaret Holland 
 (d. 1437) to the memory of her two 
 husbands, John Beaufort Earl <>t 
 Somerset, half brother of Henry IV. 
 (d. 1409), 1., and Thomas of Cla- 
 rence, 'quifuit in bello clarus, nec 
 clarior ullus ' — 2nd son of Henry IV., 
 killed by a lance-wound in the face 
 at the battle of Beaugy, 1421, rt. At 
 the E. end, singularly placed, the 
 head alone appearing through the 
 wall, is the stone coffin of Stephen 
 Lanaton (1207-28), the great Abp. 
 of John and Magna Charta, 'whose 
 work still remains among us in the 
 familiar division of the Bible into 
 chapters.' Willis suggests that the 
 tomb was outside when the chapel 
 was built, and that it was arched 
 over by the constructors. The altar- 
 slab must have covered the coffin, a 
 position most unusual unless for the 
 remains of a distinguished saint. It 
 was that chosen by Charles V. for 
 himself at Yuste, where the Church 
 would only allow his wish to be 
 carried out with considerable modi- 
 
134 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: CRYPT. 
 
 fication. But the memory of Lang- 
 ton was especially reverenced at 
 Canterbury, where his great work 
 had been the translation of the body 
 of St. Thomas (see ante). The re- 
 maining monuments are of much 
 later date. My Lady Thornhurst's 
 (d. 1609) ruff and farthingale de- 
 serve notice. Her virtues, it would 
 seem, were not less remarkable — 
 4 Si laudata Venus, Juno, si sacra 
 Minerva, Quis te collaudet, fsemina ? 
 Talis eris.' 
 
 Passing through the gallery un- 
 der the tower stairs, we return to 
 the Martyrdom Transept, and from 
 it enter the Crypt or Undercroft, 
 the same that existed under the 
 choir of Conrad. The walls near 
 the transept are ornamented by a 
 curious diaper, also found on a frag- 
 ment of the Rochester Chapterhouse, 
 of which place Ernulf, who con- 
 structed this crypt, afterwards be- 
 came bishop. Canterbury is one of 
 five English eastern crypts founded 
 before 1085 ; the others are Win- 
 chester, Gloucester, Rochester, and 
 Worcester. From this time they 
 ceased to be constructed except as 
 a continuation of former ones. — 
 (Willis.) The enrichments on the 
 capitals of the columns are occa- 
 sionally unfinished, proving that 
 they were worked after being set 
 in place. On one, at the S.W. side, 
 two sides of the block are plain ; the 
 third has the ornament roughed out, 
 and the fourth is completely finished. 
 Some of the shafts also are rudely 
 fluted, whilst others are untouched. 
 In the roof are rings, each surrounded 
 by a crown of thorns, from which 
 lamps were suspended. A careful in- 
 vestigation of the crypt was made 
 in 1887-88 ; the result of which was 
 to make it probable that the W. 
 wall is of pre-Norman date — pos- 
 sibly part of the Ch. of the Saviour. 
 
 The whole crypt was dedicated to 
 the Virgin, and toward the E. end is 
 the Chapel of Our Lady Under- 
 croft, enclosed by late Perp. open 
 stonework. It was, says Erasmus, 
 
 surrounded by a double rail of iron — 
 i Quid metuit Virgo ? nihil opinor 
 nisi fares.' In beauty the shrine 
 exceeded that of Walsingham ; its 
 wealth was indescribable. Only a 
 very few'* magnates ' were permitted 
 to see it. The niche over the altar 
 for the figure still remains ; the 
 bracket has a carving of the An- 
 nunciation. In the centre of the 
 pavement is the gravestone of the 
 Cardinal Abp. Morton (1486-1500^. 
 Faithful throughout to Henry VI., 
 he effected the union of the two 
 Roses by the marriage of Henry 
 of Richmond to Elizabeth of York. 
 His monument is at the S.W. corner, 
 much defaced by Blue Dick. The 
 Mort or hawk on a tun is the arch- 
 bishop's rebus. The examination of 
 the Lady Chapel showed that its 
 floor was composed of the stalagmite 
 slabs which formed the pavement of 
 Conrad's Choir before 1074. Car- 
 dinal Morton's ledger stone was not 
 disturbed, but the sounds produced 
 by hammering showed that the vault 
 was below, some distance away from 
 the monument. See Arch. Cant vol. 
 xviii. 
 
 In the S. screen of the Lady 
 Chapel is the monument of Lady 
 Mohun of Dunster (about 1395); a 
 chantry was founded by her. 
 
 The whole of the crypt was given 
 up by Elizabeth in 1568 to the 
 French and Flemish refugees — 'they 
 whom the rod of Alva bruised' — 
 who fled to England, then as now 
 the asylum of Europe, in great 
 numbers. (See Sandivich, Rte. 4.) 
 A company of clothiers and silk- 
 weavers ('gentle and profitable 
 strangers' as Abp. Parker called 
 them) established themselves at 
 Canterbury, where their numbers 
 rapidly increased : they were about 
 500 in 1676. They had their own 
 pastors and services, with which 
 Abp. Laud attempted to interfere ; 
 but his attention was directed else- 
 where by the breaking out of the 
 Scottish war. The main body of 
 the crypt was occupied by their silk- 
 looms, and the numerous French in- 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL : CRYPT. 
 
 135 
 
 scriptions on the roof are due to this 
 congregation, which still continues 
 to exist, although their silk-trade 
 has long since disappeared. The S. 
 side aisle was separated for their 
 place of worship. The entry to this 
 is by a door in the S.E. transept. 
 Here services in the French tongue 
 still take place at 3 p.m. every 
 Sunday. This Chapel has been re- 
 stored, and an organ introduced. 
 The Holy Table is placed in the 
 position in which it was found in 
 many parish churches before Arch- 
 bishop Laud's days— with the ends, 
 not the sides, towards the Congrega- 
 tion. 
 
 Forming the entrance to the 
 French Church, E. is the chantry 
 founded by the Black Prince on his 
 marriage in 1363. On the vaulting 
 are his arms, those of Edward III., 
 and what seems to be the face of 
 his wife, the 'Fair Maid/ For per- 
 mission to found this chantry he 
 left to the cathedral the manor of 
 4 Fauke's hall ' (Vauxhall), which re- 
 mained until lately the property of 
 the Chapter. Still further E., under 
 St. Anselm's Chapel, is that called 
 St. John's, which contained the 
 altar of St. Gabriel. For full de- 
 scription see Canon Scott Robert- 
 son's work on the Crypt. The fres- 
 coes were restored by Mr. J. Neale in 
 1879-81. The paintings refer to the 
 two Annunciations by Gabriel— to 
 the Blessed Virgin and to Zacharias. 
 They may be of the date of Anselm. 
 Beyond it is the tomb of Isabel Countess 
 o/Athol (1292^, heiress of Chilham. 
 
 The eastern part of the crypt, 
 under Trinity Chapel and Becket's 
 crown, is the work of English 
 William, and differs greatly from 
 the sombre gloom of Ernulf's build- 
 ing. 4 The work, from its position 
 and office, is of a massive and bold 
 character, but its unusual loftiness 
 prevents it from assuming the char- 
 acter of a crypt.' — (Willis.) The win- 
 dows have been opened and its 
 beauties made more apparent. The 
 abacuses of the piers are round, 
 a peculiarity whi^h distinguishes 
 
 English William's work from that 
 of William of Sens. This part of 
 the crypt was long assigned to the 
 first canon for a wine and wood 
 cellar. Here were found the re- 
 mains before alluded to. In the 
 earlier crypt, which existed here 
 before the rebuilding, Becket's body 
 was laid in a marble sarcophagus 
 the day after the murder. A wall 
 was built about it, in each end 
 of which were two windows, so that 
 pilgrims might look in, and kiss the 
 tomb itself. The tomb was covered 
 with tapers, the offerings of pilgrims, 
 and hung round with waxen legs, 
 arms, &c. — such votive memorials 
 as may still be seen about great con- 
 tinental shrines {Benedict). Here 
 Becket remained until removed to 
 the upper church in 1220. In this 
 earlier vault took place one of the 
 most remarkable scenes of the mid- 
 dle ages, — the penance of Henry II., 
 — who, two years after the murder, 
 when all seemed darkening round 
 him, determined to make a further 
 attempt at propitiating the saint. 
 Living on bread and water from the 
 time of his arrival at Southampton, 
 he walked barefoot through Can- 
 terbury from St. Dunstan's church 
 to the cathedral, where, after kneel- 
 ing in the Martyrdom transept, he 
 was led into the crypt. There, re- 
 moving his cloak and having placed 
 his head within one of the openings 
 of the tomb, he received five strokes 
 from the ' balai,' or monastic rod of 
 each bishop and abbot who was pre- 
 sent, and three from each of the 80 
 monks. He passed the whole night 
 in the crypt, fasting, and resting 
 against one of the pillars, and finally 
 departed, fully absolved. That very 
 day the Scottish king, William the 
 Lion, was taken prisoner at Aln- 
 wick, and, connecting his capture 
 with the power of the martyr, he 
 founded, on his return to Scotland, 
 the Abbey of Aberbrothock, to the 
 memory of St. Thomas of Canter- 
 bury. It is probable that the real 
 dedication of several St. Thomas' 
 Churches in this country is to St, 
 
136 ROUTE 3. CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: PRECINCTS. 
 
 Thomas of Canterbury. This is 
 known to be so in the case of Capel 
 near Tonbridge and Fairfield in 
 Romney Marsh. 
 
 We may now return to the exterior 
 of the cathedral. Of the two W. 
 towers, that N. is modern, and was 
 finished in 1840, under the superin- 
 tendence of the late G. Austin. In 
 digging the foundations, skeletons 
 of oxen are said to have been found 
 at a very great depth. The soil is 
 a deep gravel. The tower then 
 taken down (not, as is said by some 
 writers, through the wanton van- 
 dalism of the Chapter, but because 
 it was so much decayed that it could 
 no longer be preserved) was Norm, 
 and called the 'Arundel Steeple/ 
 from a ring of five bells placed in it 
 by that archbishop. The S., or 
 i Dunstan Steeple,' is the work of 
 Abp. Chicheley (1413-44) and Prior 
 Goldstone (1495-1517). 
 
 The great central tower, called 
 i Bell Harry,' from a small bell hung 
 at the top of it, is entirely due to 
 Prior Goldstone II. (1495-1517^. It 
 replaced that called the < Angel 
 Steeple/ from the figure of a gilt 
 angel crowning it ; the first object 
 that caught the eye of pilgrims ad- 
 vancing to Canterbury. The height 
 of the present tower, one of the 
 most beautiful examples of Perp. 
 work existing, is 235 ft. An ex- 
 cellent view of it may be obtained 
 from the N.W. angle of the cloisters, 
 where it groups admirably with the 
 surrounding objects, 'being sufficient 
 to give dignity to the whole, but 
 without overpowering any.' — (Fer- 
 gusson.) The exterior arcades of the 
 chapels eastward indicate the works 
 of Ernulf and Anselm, all of which 
 have already been pointed out from 
 within. The corona at the eastern 
 end of the cathedral is supposed to 
 have been originally covered with a 
 conical roof, which was demolished 
 in the 16th century with the inten- 
 tion of raising a lofty lantern, of 
 which the beginnings are still to be 
 seen. The Jength of the entire cathe- 
 
 dral, from the corona to the W. front, 
 is 522 ft. 
 
 The Precincts. — Throughout, it must 
 be remembered, all the Precincts 
 exhibit traces or remains of the great 
 Benedictine monastery founded by 
 Augustine and confirmed by Lan- 
 franc. For a plan showing the situa- 
 tion of these buildings see Prof. 
 Willis' book. 
 
 The early abps. lived in common 
 with the monks. Lanfranc's rule 
 first gave them a prior, and the 
 abps. from this time were more 
 separated, although they still con- 
 tinued the nominal heads of the 
 convent, and the monks long insisted 
 that the abp. should always be a 
 Benedictine. The priors — person- 
 ages of great importance — had the 
 right of wearing the mitre, and of 
 carrying the episcopal staff. It will 
 be noticed that the superior is called 
 prior not abbot : as the prior had 
 the abp. as his superior. 
 
 The Norm, doorway, now built 
 into the precinct wall E. of the 
 choir, was formerly in the wall 
 that ran across the churchyard, 
 near St. Anselm's Chapel, and 
 admitted from the exterior to the 
 interior or convent cemetery, into 
 which two portions the S. pre- 
 cinct, now occupied by canons' 
 houses, was mainly divided. The 
 part now called 1 The Oaks/ running 
 S. beyond the choir, was the mo- 
 nastery garden. Somewhere here 
 too was the ancient school on the 
 site of that founded by Abp. Theo- 
 dore for the study of Greek, and on 
 which he bestowed many Greek 
 books, including a copy of Homer, — 
 thus marking Canterbury as the 
 earliest place of Greek study in 
 England. 
 
 A narrow flagged passage leading 
 round the cathedral opens to the 
 Prior's or Green Court, around 
 which the buildings of the monas- 
 tery were arranged. The open space 
 to the S. of the cathedral has been 
 much enlarged, and newly laid 
 out ; and by the demolition of some 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL: CHAPTER LIBRARY. 137 
 
 houses on the N.E. (the gardens of 
 which have been thrown into the 
 public walks) some remarkable ruins, 
 which had been imbedded in modern 
 masonry, have been brought to light. 
 The arches to the E., of an early 
 Norm, style (probably before noo), 
 belonged to the Infirmary ; those 
 further E., more ornamental in cha- 
 racter, and half a century later in 
 date, belonged to the nave of the 
 Infirmary- Church, dedicated to 
 St. Mary (?) ; and still further E. are 
 the remains of the chancel, of 
 Norman work, although with Dec. 
 windows inserted. 
 
 The infirmary cloister leads from 
 the infirmary to the great cloister 
 with the chapter-house, and to the 
 Green Court with the deanery, pass- 
 ing by the treasury and a remark- 
 ably fine Norman circular tower, 
 with open vaulted substructure, 
 called the Baptistery, which joins 
 on to the north transept. This 
 building is part of the great system 
 of waterworks of the 12th cent., of 
 which a plan is preserved, and has 
 been published in the Vetusta Monu- 
 menta in the last century, and more 
 correctly, by Professor Willis, in the 
 Arch. Cant, with an admirable ac- 
 count of the domestic buildings of 
 the great monastery, the best work 
 of the kind ever published. The 
 ancient plan gave him a key to the 
 whole history of the buildings. In 
 the original part of the infirmary 
 cloisters of early Norman work, and 
 near the treasury, is a remarkable 
 feature ; a series of double shafts, or 
 twin-shafts, as they are called, lias 
 been inserted, about 11 80, between 
 the more massive original shafts of 
 about 1 120. The twin-shafts are or- 
 namented with the twisted form, and 
 have distinct capitals of their own ; 
 they bear some resemblance to the 
 beautiful cloisters of St. Paul and 
 the Lateran at Rome, and are evi- 
 dently an imitation of them. This 
 is a very interesting piece of archi- 
 tectural history : the insertion is of 
 the time of William the English- 
 man. Had he ever been to Rome ? 
 
 There is nothing like them at Sens, 
 and they are rarely found beyond 
 the limits of Italy or Aquitaine. 
 
 Adjoining St. Andrew's Chapel is 
 the Treasury, a vaulted Norman 
 room, in which the muniments of 
 the cathedral are kept. The mas- 
 sive door, opening from the audit- 
 room, is secured by three locks, and 
 the windows are remarkable for their 
 ancient and formidable iron grat- 
 ings. 
 
 Somewhere on the N. side of the 
 choir was the famous well of St. 
 Thomas, of which no trace is now 
 visible. 
 
 Beyond the infirmary is the ' Dark 
 Entry,' leading on one side into 
 the cloisters, on the other into the 
 Green Court. The passage has of 
 late years been uncovered, and the 
 arches opened, thereby exorcising 
 the ghost of 1 Nell Cook/ touching 
 whom the curious may refer to the 
 i Ingoldsby Legends.' The Norm. 
 portions of this entry seem to have 
 been the work of Prior Wibert (c. 
 t 167), who certainly built the curious 
 bell-shaped tower in the garden 
 without, adjoining the cloisters. 
 This building is now called i The 
 Baptistery/ and the upper part con- 
 tains the marble font, given by Bp. 
 Warner, removed here from the 
 cathedral nave. It is approached 
 by a passage from the N. transept, 
 leading on to the new Chapter 
 Library, erected by H. G. Austin, 
 Esq., in 1868. at a cost of about 
 4000/. It stands on part of the site 
 of Lanfranc's dormitory. The W. 
 wall and window are relics of that 
 building. It may be approached 
 either from the Green Court or from 
 the N. transept. (Open to the public 
 Tues. and Fri. from 11. 15 to 1.15). 
 There is a fine collection of books — 
 many of great age — on theology, 
 history, canon law, and general 
 literature. Also some ancient ser- 
 vice books and Bibles. A splendid 
 edition of the Sarum use is among 
 them. The MSS. are valuable. 
 Among the most ancient is a charter 
 of the time of St. Dunstan, probably 
 
138 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL : GREEN COURT. 
 
 written by himself ; 1 propriis digi- 
 torum articulis,' are the words used. 
 
 There is another Library, esta- 
 blished in 1879, on the site of the 
 Prior's Chapel, filled with books 
 gived by Archdeacon Harrison. 
 From the fact that many books had 
 belonged toAbp. Howley, it is known 
 as the 1 Bibliotheca Howleiana.' 
 
 Returning past the Baptistery a 
 staircase, L, leads down to what 
 was once the basement of the Prior's 
 chapel, then the Dean's, and until 
 lately used as a library. In the 
 garden in front are two columns, 
 which belonged to the ancient ch. 
 of Reculver, and were possibly taken 
 from the basilica of the Roman for- 
 tress ; they were found at Canterbury 
 in i860, and erected here near the 
 Baptistery. Their Roman character 
 was pointed out by Mr. C. R. Smith 
 (Antiquities of Richborough and Re- 
 culver). 
 
 At the bottom of the staircase 
 a gate, 1., leads into the Cloisters, 
 generally visited from the Martyrdom 
 Transept, but better described in this 
 place. They are late Perp., but here 
 and there show Norm, and other 
 portions, indicating that the ancient 
 site is preserved. A door still exist- 
 ing, near the N.W. angle, opened to 
 the archbishop's palace, and marks 
 the position of that through which 
 Becket passed on his way to the 
 cathedral. The use of the circular 
 opening at the side is uncertain. 
 The arched door on the N. side of 
 the cloister — where are still traces 
 of a laver with a double cistern, for 
 the ablutions of the monks — led into 
 the refectory. The cloister windows 
 were glazed and the walls of the 
 Carols painted with texts by Prior 
 Selling, d. 1494. The shields on the 
 roof are those of benefactors. The 
 central space is said (but improba- 
 bly) to have served for the herb- 
 garden of the convent. On the E. 
 side is the Chapterhouse, the 
 lower part of which is the work of 
 Prior Henry of Eastry, and the upper 
 part of Abp. Arundel (1396 -14 14). 
 
 Its roof, of Irish oak, is very rich 
 and curious. At the upper end are 
 seats for the prior and great officers. 
 The stone bench round the walls 
 was for the monks. The scourging 
 of Henry II., which is said to have 
 taken place here, was really inflicted 
 in the crypt. After the Reformation 
 it was used for preaching, and 
 thence acquired the name of ' The 
 Sermon House.' Traces may still 
 be seen of the arrangements for 
 galleries. A small part of the roof 
 has been painted, whence may be 
 gathered the effect which would be 
 produced if the whole were so 
 treated. The Chapterhouse was 
 used for the services during the re- 
 seating of the choir. 
 
 Returning through the Dark En- 
 try, we may enter the Green Court, 
 formerly surrounded by the principal 
 domestic buildings of the monastery. 
 The arch and ruins adjoining the 
 entry were portions of ' La Glo- 
 riette,' the prior's ordinary apart- 
 ments, built by Prior Hathbrande, 
 about 1370. Between the cloisters 
 and the court is a large square space, 
 surrounded by the ruins of walls and 
 of substructures of the great dor- 
 mitory for 150 monks. Beyond this 
 were the Cellarers' lodgings. 1 Cel- 
 larer's house,' another place for the 
 reception of guests and pilgrims, 
 is now the private house of one of 
 the canons. Part of it is in the 
 transitional Norman style, and of 
 the time of Becket. On the upper 
 floor there is a singular doorway 
 of his time, of the form sometimes 
 called the shouldered- arch (from its 
 resemblance to a man's shoulders 
 with his head cut off.) This is the 
 earliest example known of that form. 
 In the garden of the house is a 
 fragment of the Old Norman kitchen, 
 which has been a large octagonal 
 building, also a Norman arcade 
 against the wall, and a doorway with 
 shallow sculpture on the tympanum ; 
 over it is the figure of a bishop of 
 the time of Thomas a Becket, per- 
 haps intended for him. At this 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY 
 
 CATHEDRAL: PRECINCTS. 139 
 
 corner were guest rooms, larder, and 
 kitchens of the monastery. 
 
 The present Deanery (E. side of 
 court, with recent Elizabethan 
 front) occupies but a part of the 
 Prior's Mansion, which would seem 
 to have been of great extent. In 
 the Deanery are portraits of the 
 Deans of Canterbury, from Dr. 
 Wootton, the first after the Dissolu- 
 tion, down to the present time. 
 
 On the N. side of the court were 
 the bakehouse, brewhouse and 
 granary. These buildings are now 
 the residences of the Precentor and 
 minor canons, and the choristers' 
 practice-room. 
 
 On the W. side is the Porter's 
 Gate and Lodge, the most ancient 
 now remaining, through which pro- 
 visions and necessaries of all kinds 
 were brought into tho convent. Its 
 late Norm, ornamentation is curious. 
 In these details we follow Prof. 
 Willis's plan. 
 
 Adjoining this gate is the 
 King's School, rebuilt 1865, and 
 since enlarged. 
 
 The Norm, staircase leading up 
 to the hall is the only construction 
 of the sort known to be in existence. 
 The work is late Norm., although 
 the pillars resemble those with plain 
 capitals in the crypt. The hall 
 above was rebuilt in 1855. It takes 
 the place of that called the north or 
 4 Hog-hall,' not, i as some say, from 
 the dressing of hogs in the under- 
 croft of it,' but from its size and 
 height (hoga, hoch). It seems to 
 have anciently served for the stew- 
 ards of the monastery courts. 
 
 In the court which is entered 
 through the arches under the hall 
 was the Almonry of the priory. At 
 the Dissolution Henry VIII. retained 
 these buildings in his own hands, 
 and converted some portions of them 
 into a mint. In the remainder he 
 established the King's or Grammar 
 school, for 50 scholars, which still 
 maintains a very high reputation. 
 Among its distinguished scholars 
 were Marlowe the dramatist — a 
 [Kent.] 
 
 native of Canterbury (see Dyce's 
 Marlowe, vol. i.) — and Lord Chief 
 Justice Tenterden, who declared 
 'that to the free school of Canter- 
 bury he owed, under the Divine 
 blessing, the first and best means 
 of his elevation in life.' An in- 
 teresting anecdote of Lord Tenter- 
 den has been recorded by Mr. Mac- 
 ready, to whom a verger pointed 
 out where a little barber's shop used 
 to stand, opposite the W. front of the 
 cathedral, and said, ' The last time 
 Lord Tenterden came down here he 
 brought his son Charles with him, 
 and it was my duty, of course, to 
 attend them over the cathedral. 
 When we came to this side of it, he 
 led his son up to this very spot and 
 said to him, ''Charles, you see this 
 little shop ; I have brought you here 
 on purpose to show it to you. In that 
 shop your grandfather used to shave 
 for a penny ! That is the proudest 
 reflection of my life ! While you live 
 never forget that, my dear Charles." ' 
 (Ld. Campbell). The school has at 
 present 150 boys under tuition. 
 There arc two departments — a 
 senior and junior. A school was 
 connected with the monastery of 
 Christ Church as early as the days 
 of Archbishop Theodore, a. d. 668. 
 
 We pass out of the precincts 
 by the North gate into Palace 
 Street, where an arched doorway is 
 nearly all that now remains of the 
 Archbishop's Palace. The ruined 
 Saxon palace here was rebuilt by 
 Lanfranc. In this Norm, building 
 the scenes took place between Becket 
 and the knights before he entered 
 the cathedral. The great hall, 
 famous for its entertainments, was 
 begun by Abp. Hubert Walter, and 
 finished by Stephen Langton. On 
 the marriage of Edward I. with Mar- 
 garet of France there were four days 
 of feasting here. In 15 14 Warham 
 entertained Charles V., Queen J oanna 
 of Arragon, Henry VIII., and Queen 
 Catherine ; on which occasion there 
 was a * solemne dauncing ' in the 
 great hall. In 1573 Parker feasted 
 
 M 
 
140 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY 
 
 st. Augustine's college. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth here ; but the 
 greatest festivities recorded took 
 place at the enthronisation of War- 
 ham in 1504. On this occasion, the 
 ; subtylties ' which appeared be- 
 tween each course must have tried 
 monastic invention to the utmost. 
 The archbishop's table was graced 
 with 1 Our Lady and the King pre- 
 senting Warham, in his habit as 
 Master of the Rolls, unto St. Paul, 
 sitting in a tower between St. Peter 
 and St. Thomas a Becket,' who re- 
 ceive him with i benigne counte- 
 nances.' There were other devices 
 exhibiting doctors in grey amices at 
 their desks, ' well garnished with 
 angels .' All were supplied with such 
 mottoes as induce us to hope that 
 the cooks were more skilful than the 
 poets. The archbishop was served by 
 his high steward, the Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, who entered the hall on 
 horseback. He had his own table, 
 decorated with i subtylties ' of a 
 more worldly cast ; whilst the 
 brethren feasted on salmon and 
 lampreys. The high steward had 
 the right, after the enthronisation, of 
 stopping with his train for three days 
 at one of the archbishop's nearest 
 manors, to be bled — 'adminuendum 
 sanguinem' — a proof of the conse- 
 quences expected to result from the 
 outpouring of yppocrasse and clarye. 
 The palace was pillaged and fell into 
 a ruined state under the Puritan 
 rule, and on the Restoration an act 
 waspassed,releasing the archbishops 
 from the duty of restoring it. Since 
 that time they have had no official 
 residence in Canterbury. The 
 district once occupied by the palace 
 is still a 'ville' or extra-parochial 
 district. Part of the ground is now 
 occupied by buildings connected 
 with the King's School. 
 
 After the cathedral, the great 
 object of interest is St. Augustine's 
 College. Its ancient history must 
 be told before the present foundation 
 is dealt with. 
 
 Outside the Roman city, and ad- 
 joining the road to Rutupise, was a 
 building in which Ethelbert had 
 been accustomed to worship the 
 Saxon deities. This, after his con- 
 version, he made over to Augustine, 
 who consecrated it as the church of 
 St. Pancras, the patron saint of 
 children, and now probably chosen 
 with a reference to the three English 
 children whose presence in the 
 Roman forum had led to the conver- 
 sion of their country, as told in the 
 well-known story of St. Gregory and 
 the Saxon slave-boys. Close adjoin- 
 ing this eh., on ground also granted 
 by Ethelbert, Augustine built the 
 Benedictine monastery of SS. Peter 
 and Paul, called after the two apostles 
 of the city of Rome, from which 
 Augustine and his companions had 
 come. It was afterwards dedicated by 
 Dunstan, in 978, to these two saints 
 and to Augustine, by whose name it 
 was henceforth chiefly known. Its 
 original foundation without the 
 walls was owing to the wish of 
 Augustine to provide a spot of con- 
 secrated ground for the interment 
 of himself and successors ; ' Ne intra 
 muros sepelito ' being the rule of 
 Roman and of Saxon Britain as well 
 as of Rome itself. Augustine and 
 Ethelbert, with many of their suc- 
 cessors, were buried here, and the 
 Roman road to Rutupia? thus became 
 the English Appian Way. The 
 A.-S. kings vied with each other in 
 bestowing lands and gifts upon this 
 great monastery. The abbot's place 
 in the general Benedictine Council 
 was next to that of the abbot of 
 Monte Cassino, the head of the 
 order. When he was to be conse- 
 crated the abbot insisted that the 
 abp. himself should come to the 
 abbey ch. for the purpose, but this 
 claim became the subject of fierce 
 contests, and of frequent appeals to 
 Rome. The abbot had, before the 
 Conquest, the right of minting and 
 coinage, and, at the Dissolution, 
 jurisdiction over a whole lathe of 13 
 hundreds. The days of St. Augus- 
 tine's prosperity came to an end in 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY: THE CEMETERY GATE. HI 
 
 July 1538, when the King's Com- 
 missioners arrived for the purpose 
 of suppressing it. The monks at 
 first attempted resistance, but when 
 two pieces of ordnance were brought 
 to bear upon the building, they 
 yielded. Abbot Essex resigned the 
 building into the hands of the King. 
 
 Of the Church, which had been 
 several ' times injured by fire and 
 by flood, there now only remain 
 some wall fragments of late Norm, 
 character. At the W. end stood 
 Ethelbert's Tower, erected about 
 1047, and taken down at the be- 
 ginning of the present cent. (See 
 Gostling's Walk for views of it.) 
 Somner suggests that it was a cam- 
 panile, and called from a bell named 
 Ethelbert. The arrangements of 
 the high altar, with the shrines of 
 the first archbishops surrounding it, 
 are figured by Somner from a MS. in 
 Trin. Coll., Cambridge. The shrine 
 of King Ethelbert was above the 
 altar, and on each side 1 books sent 
 by Gregory to Augustine/ probably 
 the two MS. Gospels still preserved in 
 the Bodleian and in Corpus Christi 
 Coll., Cambridge, 1 the most ancient 
 books that ever were read in Eng- 
 land.' (Stanley, H. M. 23.) Before 
 the Becket murder this ch., as that 
 of the patron saint, was regarded as 
 a more sacred and important edifice 
 than the cathedral, and was, more- 
 over, venerated as the burial-place 
 of the earlier archbishops and 
 kings of Kent ; but the glory of 
 Becket's shrine speedily eclipsed it. 
 
 S. of the ch. (behind the Hospital) 
 adjoining its ancient cemetery, are 
 the remains of St. Pan eras chapel. 
 For a full account of these see the 
 Archccologia Caniiana, vol. xiv. (1880) 
 and Routledge's History of St. Martins. 
 There are the evident remains of 
 Roman work here. The building is 
 perhaps of the same date as the 
 chancel at St. Martin's. There are 
 the traces of two distinct periods of 
 architecture. The remains of tombs 
 have been discovered, and also an 
 altar, which may possibly be that 
 originally erected by St. Augustine | 
 
 — but of this it is impossible to be 
 certain. To reach this very interest- 
 ing spot the visitor should enter the 
 grounds of the Kent and Canterbury 
 Hospital (either from St. Augus- 
 tine's, or from the main road up 
 Longport) and passing round the 
 building then into the field adjoin- 
 ing it on the E. side. Further ex- 
 cavations have been so far rendered 
 impossible owing to the opposition 
 of the owner of the adjoining land. 
 Beside these ruins, the entrance- 
 gate, the cemetery-gate, and the 
 present refectory, are the only re- 
 mains of the original monastery. 
 The college hall or refectory was 
 the ancient Guests* Hall ; its open 
 roof is unchanged. The Entrance 
 Gate was built by Abbot Fyndon in 
 1300 ; the massive oaken doors are 
 of the same date (considerably re- 
 paired), and retain their traceried 
 panelling. It was embattled by 
 royal licence soon after. The roof 
 commands a view over the city, 
 embracing every point of interest. 
 Remark the curious framing of St. 
 Martin's Church between two of the 
 embrasures. This gate has been 
 frequently copied with and without 
 propriety. The Marquis of Hastings 
 introduced it in the centre of the 
 facade of Donington castle, and the 
 late Marquis of Westminster as a 
 lodge at Eaton. The last-named 
 copy cost its owner more than 
 io,oooZ. 
 
 The Cemetery Gate, which I e- 
 longs to the college, was built by 
 Ickman, the sacrist, in 1399, at a 
 cost of 466I. 13s. 4d. It was restored 
 in a time when such things were ill 
 understood. 
 
 After the Dissolution the inhabit- 
 able buildings were converted into 
 a royal palace, though the ground 
 still remained covered with ruins. 
 Mary granted this palace to Cardi- 
 nal Pole for his life. Elizabeth 
 held her court in it for some days ; 
 Charles L returned here with Hen- 
 rietta Maria, after their first meeting 
 at Dover. At supper he carved for 
 m 2 
 
142 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY: ST. AUGUSTINES COLLEGE. 
 
 her wiffi his own royal hand 'a 
 pheasant and some venison ' ; and 
 the great room over the gateway 
 is traditionally pointed out as that 
 in which the ominous marriage was 
 consummated. It was then granted 
 to Thomas Lord Wotton of Marley, 
 whose family long continued to 
 reside here, and entertained Charles 
 II. when he passed through Canter- 
 bury after the Restoration. The 
 buildings were subsequently known 
 as Lady Wotton's palace, and the 
 open space before the gateway is 
 still called * Lady Wotton's Green.' 
 The buildings gradually disap- 
 peared — with the exception of the 
 gateway — the Abbot's Chapel and 
 the Guest Hall. Ethelbert s tower 
 was levelled with the ground in 
 1822. The remaining buildings 
 ( called then the Old Palace Ruins) 
 were used partly as a brewery — 
 partly as a tea garden and dancing 
 ground. In 1844 the property was 
 in the market — and was bought by 
 the late Mr. A. J. Beresford Hope, 
 M.P. (whose attention had been 
 called to the desecration of the 
 premises by Dr. Brett of Stoke New- 
 ington), and devoted by him to its 
 present purpose, that of a Missionary 
 College, some time before projected 
 by the Rev. E. Coleridge, 4 intended 
 to carry far and wide, to countries 
 of which Gregory and Augustine 
 never heard, the blessings which 
 they gave to us/ — (Stanley.) It * pro- 
 vides an education to qualify young 
 men for the service of the Church 
 in the distant dependencies of the 
 British empire, with such strict 
 regard to economy and frugality of 
 habit, as may fit them for the special 
 duties to be discharged, the diffi- 
 culties to be encountered, and the 
 hardships to be endured.' — (Charter of 
 Incorporation.) A full account of its 
 objects, arrangements, and studies, 
 will be found in the 1 Calendar of St. 
 Augustine's College/ published an- 
 nually. 
 
 The College consists of warden, 
 sub warden, 3 fellows and 6 lecturers. 
 The endowment, only partially pro- 
 
 vided as yet, has been raised from 
 free contri butions. Exhibitions have 
 been founded in the college by 
 different benefactors. (Donations 
 received by the Rev. Canon Bliss, 
 Betshanger Rectory, Dover, and 
 Messrs. Hammond, Canterbury.) 
 
 There is at present accommoda- 
 tion for about 60 students. The 
 annual charges are about 40I. 
 Students are instructed in classical 
 and oriental languages, mathe- 
 matics, medicine, practical carpen- 
 tering, and printing. The printing 
 press is on the ground floor of the new 
 buildings towards the cemetery gate. 
 Since the foundation of the college 
 400 students have gone from it to 
 the mission field — three of whom 
 have become Bishops. 
 
 The building was erected from 
 designs by Mr. Butterfield, and 
 completed in 1848, 310 years after 
 the dissolution of the earlier founda- 
 tion. It is full of beauty ; 1 No 
 motley collection of ill-assorted 
 plagiarisms, but a positive creation, 
 a real thing, which may be said to 
 be like nothing else, and yet like 
 everything else, in Christian art.' — 
 (Bp. of Fredericton.) 
 
 Fronting the main entrance is the 
 Library, standing on the founda- 
 tions of the crypt of the Great 
 Refectory, which was restored from 
 fragments remaining. The library 
 above is an original design ; the 
 windows are copied from those in 
 the hall of the Palace of Mayfield 
 (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 9). It contains 
 a valuable collection of missionary 
 books, the Oriental collection of Dr. 
 Mill, presented by Mr. Hope, and 
 perhaps the very finest set of the 
 Fathers existing. The portrait of 
 Bp. Heber here was painted for the 
 King of Oude, but passed into the 
 hands of Dr. Mill. Below the library 
 is the Museum, containing numer- 
 ous objects of interest sent home by 
 missionaries from the college. On 
 the opposite side is the chapel— on 
 the site of the ancient Abbot's 
 Chapel. Below it is the crypt- 
 containing a handsome altar erected 
 
ROUTE 3. CANTERBURY: ST. MARTIN^ CHL T RC:i. 143 
 
 in memory of Lady Mildred Be res- 
 ford Hope — and sculptures relating 
 to the mission of Augustine. Here 
 deceased students of the college are 
 commemorated by tablets on the 
 walls. Opposite the Chapel is the 
 College Hall. Notice the ancient 
 roof — the picture of St. Augustine's 
 as it was in 1844— the Warden's 
 Chair (antique) and the portraits 
 of founders and benefactors. Be- 
 yond the hall is the Common Room 
 containing some old prints. 
 
 On the N. side of the quadrangle 
 are the cloisters, with students' 
 rooms above them. The S. side is 
 still open, and shows the ruins of 
 the abbey ch. The oak fittings of 
 the library and students' gallery are 
 specially worth notice. Each student 
 lias a sitting-room and bed-room. 
 In the cloisters are inscribed the 
 names of all students who have left 
 the college for the mission field. 
 
 From St. Augustine's the visitor 
 may fitly proceed by the Longpori 
 Road, passing the Hospital on the 
 1., the first manor granted to 
 St. Augustine's by Ethelbert, to 
 St. Martin's Church on the 
 hill above, the ' Mother Church of 
 England, as Canterbury is the 
 Mother Cathedral.' It had been a 
 British Christian chapel before the 
 arrival of the Saxons, and had been 
 given up for the use of Bertha, the 
 Christian wife of Ethelbert, and of 
 her French bishop, Liudhard. The 
 words of Bede imply that the chapel 
 had been named from St. Martin in 
 the Roman period ; as that of Can- 
 dida Casa (^Whitherne), founded by 
 St. Ninian, who died in 431, was. 
 This chapel of St. Martin was 
 perhaps the first object that caught 
 the view of Augustine and the 
 missionaries as they advanced from 
 Richborough to Canterbury, along 
 the Roman road that crossed St. 
 Martin's Hill. i And then, in the 
 valley below, on the banks of the 
 river, appeared the city — the rude 
 wooden city as it then was — em- 
 bosomed in thickets. As soon as 
 they saw it they formed themselves 
 
 into a long procession ; they lifted 
 up again the tall silver cross, and 
 the rude painted board ' (see Thanet, 
 Rte. 7) ; 'there were with them the 
 choristers whom Augustine had 
 brought from Gregory's school on 
 the Ccelian hill, trained in the 
 chants which were called after his 
 name, and they sang one of those 
 litanies which Gregory had intro- 
 duced for the plague at Rome : "We 
 beseech thee, O Lord, in all thy 
 mercy, that thy wrath and thine 
 anger may be removed from this 
 city, and from thy holy house. 
 Alleluia." Doubtless, as they 
 uttered that last word, they must 
 have remembered that they were 
 thus fulfilling to the letter the very 
 wisli that Gregory had expressed 
 when he first saw the Saxon 
 children in the market-place at 
 Rome. And thus they came down 
 St. Martin's Hill, and entered Can- 
 terbury.' — [Stanley.) The Chapel of 
 St. Martin was now made over t<> 
 Augustine ; and in it Ethelbert is 
 said to have been baptized — * except 
 the conversion of Clovis, the most 
 important baptism thai the world 
 had seen since that of Constantine.' 
 Suffragan bishops of St. Martin's 
 were occasionally appointed during 
 the Saxon period. They acted as 
 chorepiscopi ; a^>istants to the Arch- 
 bishop. Their office ceased in the 
 time of Lanfranc, who refused to 
 ordain another Bishop. No suffragan 
 bishop was again appointed for the 
 see of Canterbury until the reign of 
 Henry VIII. when the suffragan see 
 was fixed at Dover. This again was 
 in abeyance forthreecenturies, when 
 the bishopric was revived in 1869 by 
 the appointment of Archdeacon 
 Parry as Bishop of Dover. He was 
 buried in St. Martin's Churchyard 
 (N.E. of church" and a memorial was 
 erected in the N. aisle of the nave 
 of the Cathedral (ante). (Bishops 
 with titular sees occasionally acted 
 as suffragans to Canterbury between 
 the time of Lanfranc and the Re- 
 formation.) 
 
 For a full account of St. Martin's 
 
144 ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY: ST. MARTINS CHURCH. 
 
 Church the tourist may refer to 
 The History of St. Martin's Church 
 by the Rev. Canon Routledge. The 
 church consists of a nave, chancel 
 (ancient), tower (14th cent.), and 
 vestry chamber (modern). The 
 building is of a composite character, 
 and the exact age of the various 
 parts has been much disputed. It 
 seems certain that a place of worship 
 has stood on this site ever since the 
 4th cent., and this was perhaps built 
 on or into a Roman Temple. The 
 Roman bricks and the salmon- 
 coloured plastering point to a Roman 
 origin at least of the nave. The 
 nave appears to be the older part of 
 the building. The doorways should 
 be noticed ; counting ancient and 
 modern there are no less than six. 
 On the S.W. of the nave is an E.E. 
 doorway. On the N. side an E.E. 
 porch added on to an older Norman 
 doorway. Three are on the S. side 
 of the chancel and its adjacent 
 corner. On the W. impost of the E. 
 one is a fragment of freestone, built 
 in, with a Celtic inscription, probably 
 of the 9th or 10th cent. There is a 
 square insertion on the E. wall of 
 the chancel with traces of the brass 
 of a figure of 15th cent. There is a 
 curious semi-circular niche at the 
 S.E. corner of the nave, and what is 
 perhaps a Norman squint partially 
 hidden by the tower. The font is in 
 three tiers, with quaint carvings. Part 
 is possibly Saxon : tradition makes 
 it the font in which King Ethel- 
 bert was baptized. Under the tower 
 is a fragment of a monumental stone, 
 with the inscription ariscus. On the 
 N. side of the chancel is a tomb of 
 great antiquity. Tradition has it 
 that Queen Bertha was buried here, 
 but history states that she was 
 buried in the chapel of St. Martin at 
 St. Augustine's Monastery. The 
 history of the tomb is not ascer- 
 tained. The modern windows repre- 
 sent scenes in the lives of St. Martin 
 and St. Augustine. The church has 
 been so completely restored, and 
 ornamented in modern style, that a 
 visitor may be tempted at first sight 
 
 to forget its high antiquity. He will 
 find, however, on inspection, that 
 several hours may be profitably 
 devoted to a thorough examination 
 of the many interesting points of 
 this most ancient of British existing 
 places of worship. 
 
 The churchyard has been well 
 called the Campo Santo of Canter- 
 bury. In it are buried Bishop 
 Parry, Dean Alford, General 
 Macqueen, Canon Robertson, the 
 Church historian, and many mem- 
 bers of leading Kentish families. 
 Notice the unique inscription on 
 Dean Alford's tomb ' Deversorium 
 viatoris Hierosolymam profici- 
 scentis ' (the resting-place of a pil- 
 grim on the way to Jerusalem). 
 
 The keys are kept at a house in 
 Longport Street. 
 
 The visitor should make a point 
 of attending the service here. In 
 no ch. throughout England has the 
 Creed a more solemn sound or signi- 
 ficance. And passing beyond the 
 churchyard gate, he should climb 
 the hill behind it, commanding one 
 of the best views of Canterbury, i the 
 first English Christian city/ with 
 the great cathedral towering in the 
 centre, and St. Augustine's close 
 below. 6 From the Christianity here 
 established has flowed by direct 
 consequence, first, the Christianity 
 of Germany, then, after a long in- 
 terval, of North America, and lastly, 
 we may trust in time, of all India 
 and all Australasia. The view from 
 St. Martin's Hill is indeed one of 
 the most inspiriting that can be 
 found in the world ; there is none to 
 which I would more willingly take 
 any one who doubted whether a 
 small beginning could lead to a 
 great and lasting good, none which 
 carries us more vividly back into the 
 past, or more hopefully forward to 
 the future.' — (Stanley.) 
 
 Turning oif opposite the County 
 Hospital, we may pass through 
 Chantry Lane to the Dane John, 
 with a glance at the site of St. 
 Sepulchre's, a Benedictine nunnery, 
 founded by Anselm, adjoining a ch. 
 
ROUTE 3. — canterbury: the castle. 
 
 145 
 
 of the Holy Sepulchre, It was here 
 that Elizabeth Barton, 1 the nun of 
 Kent/ was removed from Aldington, 
 where her cell 4 for some three years 
 was the Delphic shrine of the 
 Catholic oracle, from which the 
 orders of Heaven were communi- 
 cated even to the Pope himself/ 
 (Froude, H. E. i. 295. ) k The name 
 of the district of Nunnery Fields ' 
 is almost all that is left to show 
 where the nunnery existed. The 
 remains have been used in building 
 the houses and walls here and along 
 the Old Dover Road. A number of 
 sepulchral Roman remains have 
 been found on the site of the 
 Nunnery. Beyond the Nunnery, 
 on the E. side, was the Monastic 
 Hospital of St. Lawrence. The 
 remains of this have been utilised 
 in the same manner as those of St. 
 Sepulchre's. [The hospital has left 
 its name to the famous St. Lawrence 
 Cricket Ground (otherwise the 
 Beverley Ground} on the S.E. side 
 of the city — the centre and first 
 home of Kentish Cricket. The 
 annual ' Cricket Week ' begins here 
 on the first Monday in Aug. and 
 attracts large numbers.] On one 
 of the stones of the wall on S. side 
 of the Old Dover Road may still be 
 traced a sculpture of the Martyrdom 
 of St. Lawrence. 
 
 The public walks of the Dane 
 John are beautiful and well worth 
 a visit. One of them passes along 
 the top of the old city wall, some of 
 the towers of which may here be 
 seen. The name is no doubt a cor- 
 ruption of Donjon, with a probable 
 reference to the lofty mound close 
 within the city walls. This may 
 have had some connexion with the 
 castle beyond ; or may mark the site 
 of some earlier British stronghold. 
 The view of the cathedral from it, 
 seen over the fresh green of the trees, 
 is very striking. The field opposite, 
 outside the walls (now nearly covered 
 by the station of the L. C. D. Rly.), 
 is called 'the Martyrs' Field,' where 
 five persons are said to have been 
 burned during the last year of Queen 
 
 Mary's reign. The cannon in the Dane 
 John Grounds is a memorial of the 
 Crimean War. It was taken from the 
 Russians, and presented to the city 
 of Canterbury by the Government. 
 The marble sundial and the classic 
 fountain may be noticed. The pillar 
 which surmounts the mound was 
 erected by Alderman Simmons for 
 the delectation of his fellow towns- 
 men in 1790. A band plays here in 
 the summer season. 
 
 Beyond the Dane John, but still 
 close to the city wall, is the Castle, 
 the venerable Norm, keep of which 
 is now converted into a gas factory. 
 It measures 88 ft. by 80, and is the 
 third largest Norm, keep in England, 
 the two exceeding it being Colches- 
 ter 168x126, and Norwich 98x93. 
 According to Domesday the Con- 
 queror received the castle in exchange 
 from the Archbishop and Abbot of 
 St. Augustine's. It was reduced 
 without resistance by Louis of France 
 (temp. John\ It became afterwards 
 a prison ; and in the barbican certain 
 of the prisoners used to sit ' bound 
 in chains, to beg their daily bread.' 
 Jews were frequently confined here, 
 and many versicles of the Psalms 
 in Hebrew remained on the walls of 
 the N.E. staircase in Plot's time 
 (1672^. The state apartments were 
 on the third storey, with larger 
 arched windows. At the N. end is 
 an arch, high in the wall, now 
 bricked up, which King {Mini, Ant.) 
 supposed to be the original entrance, 
 as at Rochester. Adjoining it was 
 the ancient Worth Gate, now removed, 
 — an arch of Roman brick, opening 
 to the Stone Street, by which Lymne 
 (Portus Lemanis) was approached. 
 
 Canterbury still contains 14 
 parish churches, besides one (St. 
 Andrew) now used as a Church 
 Lecture Hall, and another (St. 
 M. Magdalene) partly demolished. 
 St. Gregory's without the walls, 
 beyond Broad Street, an excellent 
 modern E. E. ch. (Scott, arch.), again 
 recalls the great Pope whose name 
 1 stands at the opening of Christian 
 Europe/ and a little further on, in 
 
146 ROUTE 3.— CANTERBURY : CHURCHES. 
 
 Northgate Street, was the ancient 
 Priory of St. Gregory, founded by 
 Lanfranc for Augustinian Black 
 Canons, the first house of the Order 
 in England. There are now no re- 
 mains. The canons had the duty of 
 ministering to the infirm in the 
 Hospital of St. John, opposite, 
 also founded by Lanfranc, and the 
 twin hospital of Harbledown. More 
 than 100 poor were sustained in this 
 hospital and adjoining edifices, temp. 
 Edw. III. (Soniner). In the chapel 
 was a ' very brave quire window, 
 with the 12 Apostles/ given by one 
 of the Roper family, of which only 
 fragments remain. The hospital has 
 been recently restored. The most 
 interesting part remaining is the 
 Gateway, a wooden structure, arched. 
 
 St. Mildred's Church was re- 
 stored in 1 86 1 under the direction of 
 Mr. Butterfield. Fragments of Ro- 
 man tiles are built into the walls 
 among the flint ; and Mr. Hussey 
 suggests {Arch. Cant., vol. i.) that 
 ' most of the stones of the two quoins 
 of the S. wall of the nave have also 
 been taken from a Roman building/ 
 They are larger than usual in medi- 
 eval work ; and some are of oolite, 
 4 a material very rarely found in this 
 district in buildings contemporary 
 with this ch., but known to have 
 been carried to considerable dis- 
 tances, for building purposes, by the 
 Romans/ 
 
 The Church of Holy Cross was 
 
 removed byAbp. Sudbury (1374-81) 
 from its old position above Westgate 
 when that was rebuilt, and placed 
 beside it. The talbot seiant — Sud- 
 bury's coat — appears within the 
 porch. The brasses have been re- 
 moved, but the old carved benches 
 remain. On the seat of one is carved 
 a representation of two men-fighting, 
 with a rose between them — perhaps 
 a humorous allusion to the Wars of 
 the Roses. In St. Dunstan's 
 Church, beyond, the head of Sir 
 Thomas More was deposited in the 
 vault of the Ropers. Among the 
 
 registers are preserved some pages of 
 a pre-Reformation service-book. The 
 brick gateway nearly opposite the 
 ch., now part of a brewery, is all 
 that remains of the Ropers' manor- 
 house, in which Margaret, the most 
 learned of the 'Moricae,' as Erasmus 
 called Sir Thomas's daughters, spent 
 her married life. 
 
 St. Alphege has a good brass of 
 a priest, 1487, and other memorials. 
 There are numerous quaint epitaphs. 
 Notice those to Agnes Halke (1502), 
 alluding to the custom of churchyard 
 dances ; and Henry Gosborne (1522), 
 four times mayor, and father of 25 
 children. 
 
 St. Margaret's has a monument 
 to John Winter, twice mayor, 1470 ; 
 and one to Somner, the Kentish 
 antiquary. St. Mary Northgate for- 
 merly stood over the N. gateway to 
 the city. 
 
 St. Mary Magdalene was de- 
 molished some years since, except 
 the tower, under which the monu- 
 ments are strangely huddled to- 
 gether. Notice one to Christopher 
 Klock (1475) and wife. The tower is 
 quaint and striking. 
 
 St. Paul's has brasses to George 
 and Katharine Winburne, 1431, and 
 a beautiful modern reredos. 
 
 St. Peter's was at one time 
 granted for the use of French Re- 
 fugees. In St. George's is a well- 
 preserved brass with effigy of J. 
 Lovelle, rector 1438. 
 
 The small but handsome (modern) 
 B. C. Church of St. Thomas of 
 Canterbury adjoins the remains of 
 St. Mary Magdalene. 
 
 Of the smaller religious houses, the 
 most important remains are those of 
 the Dominicans, or Black Friars, 
 on the banks of the Stour, below St. 
 Peter's Church. This house is said 
 to have been the first they possessed 
 in England. They were established 
 here by Henry III., and the remains 
 are of this date. The refectory, 
 with windows high in the wall, is 
 
ROUTE 3. — CANTERBURY : MUSEUM. 
 
 147 
 
 perfect, and is now a Unitarian 
 Baptist Chapel. In it De Foe is said 
 to have frequently preached. The 
 E. window of the ancient ch. appears 
 on the opposite bank of the Stour. 
 A picturesque view of the ruins may 
 be had from Mount's Nursery, worth 
 a visit for its own sake. The walks 
 are well laid out, and between the 
 trees are pleasant glimpses of the 
 cathedral and the city wall with its 
 watch-turrets. Remark, especially, 
 an enormous Lombardy poplar 
 planted 1758. 
 
 Without the garden, in a meadow 
 adjoining ' the Abbot's Mill,' which 
 belonged to St. Augustine's Mona- 
 stery, are five large poplars (1 Cane- 
 scens, British, and 4 Monilifera, Cana- 
 dian). They are about 100 years old, 
 and so picturesque with their ribbed 
 trunks, and great masses of pointed 
 leafage, as to be well worth the 
 artist's attention. 
 
 The Franciscans, or GreyFriars, 
 
 had a house, one of their earliest 
 establishments in England, on the 
 S. side of St. Peter's Street. The 
 small remains of this are hidden 
 from view by the houses in St. Peter's 
 Street and Stour Street. There is an 
 old building (once the house of the 
 Lovelaces) on arches over the river, 
 and parts of the old boundary walls 
 of the abbey. They can be reached 
 by a narrow footpath. 
 
 The White Friars had a house 
 in that part of the city — S. of St. 
 George's Street— still bearing the 
 name. John Capgrave, the monastic 
 writer in the 15th cent., was a friar 
 here. The traces of the monastery 
 have practically disappeared. The 
 imagination wanders back to me- 
 diaeval Canterbury, when so large a 
 number of its inhabitants were mem- 
 bers of religious orders : Benedictines 
 (at the Cathedral and St. Augus- 
 tine's), Augustinians (at St. Gre- 
 gory's), the Kts. Templars, as well as 
 the three orders of Friars, whose va- 
 rious robes must have contributed to 
 the picturesque appearance of the 
 streets. Canterbury abounds in 
 
 I * Hospitals' or almshouses of various 
 degrees of antiquity and importance. 
 
 East Bridge Hospital, close to 
 the E. Bridge and bound originally 
 to receive ' wayfaring and hurt men,' 
 j is said to have been founded by Abp. 
 I Becket. It was doomed to suppres- 
 | sion, temp. Ed. VI., and being in the 
 hands of the crown at the date of 
 the surrender of Calais, it was turned 
 I into a hospital for the sick and 
 i wounded of the garrison. It next 
 s fell into private hands, but was 
 ! afterwards recovered by Abp. Parker, 
 I who put it to its present use of an 
 ' almshouse for aged citizens. It is 
 worth a visit. Notice the wall 
 paintings recently uncovered in the 
 ! hall. Maynard's, or Cotton's 
 Hospital was originally founded 
 by two citizens in 1205 — the present 
 buildings dating from 1708. St. 
 John's Hospital, in Northgate 
 (anfe), was founded by Archbishop 
 Lanfranc in 1084. The Jesus Hos- 
 pital, in Northgate, owes its origin 
 to Sir John Boys, 1595 ; and 
 Cogan's Hospital, in St. Peter s, 
 was first established in 1657. Its 
 buildings are now in St. Dunstan's, 
 and its revenues used for assistance of 
 widows of poor clergy of the diocese. 
 The Poor Priest's Hospital was 
 founded by Abp. Langton in 1240. 
 At the dissolution it became a bride- 
 well, and subsequently a 1 blue coat ' 
 school. 
 
 In Guildhall Street, which opens 
 from the High Street, is the Mu- 
 seum, built by subscription, and 
 containing some collections well 
 worth a visit. Among the local an- 
 tiquities is an A.-S. drinking cup of 
 ' twisted' or 'pillared' glass— the 
 ' twisted ale-cup ' of Beowulf — such 
 as Ethelbert may have drained in 
 his hall, or pledged Augustine in. 
 It was found near Keculver, and is 
 probably unique. Remark also the 
 remains of a sacrificial vat or bronze 
 bucket, for mead or beer ; some of 
 the circular A.-S. (or Jutish) fibula) 
 peculiar to Kent and the Isle of 
 Wight, and other relics from Gilton 
 
148 
 
 ROUTE 3 CANTERBURY. — WHITSTABLE . 
 
 and Breach Downs. In other cases 
 are urns from Hartlip and Chart- 
 ham, and a curious statuette of La- 
 tona (?) found in a Roman urn at 
 St. Dunstan's ; besides a fragment of 
 Becket's shrine (?) There is also a 
 good collection of Greek and Etrus- 
 can vases presented by the late Lord 
 Strangford. The Nat. Hist, collec- 
 tions are large. Remark a large 
 British pearl found in a Whitstable 
 oyster ; fossils from Sheppey, — 
 echini, crabs, lobsters, and turtles ; 
 horns of different species of ox, from 
 Sea Salter and Herne ; mammoth 
 bones and tusks from Herne Bay ; 
 and in the hall, some very large am- 
 monites from Dover. An early pic- 
 ture of Coopers, 'Meadows on the 
 Stour, looking towards Canterbury 
 from Tuniford,' hangs in the upper 
 room. The windows of Flemish glass 
 contain some interesting fragments. 
 There is a small library below, 
 liberally conducted. Over the fire- 
 place is the portrait of Gostling, 
 author of the Walk round Canterbury 
 (1777). His walking-stick hangs 
 below. 
 
 The Guildhall at the corner of this 
 street was erected in Q. Anne's time, 
 on the site of an older Hall dating 
 from 1437. The city records, dating 
 from 1236, are very full and interest- 
 ing. The Hall contains some relics of 
 armour, and some curious portraits. 
 That of Cogan, who gave lands in 1657 
 for the support of six clergymen's 
 widows, to the hospital called after 
 him in St. Peter Street, is by Jansen, 
 who was long resident at Bridge, 
 about 3 m. from Canterbury (post). 
 At the N. end of this street is the 
 small district called 1 Stable Gate,' 
 which Ethelbert, it is said, assigned 
 to Augustine and his companions 
 before his own conversion. 
 
 An interesting walk maybe taken, 
 by following the line of the old city 
 walls, and traces of the old gate- 
 ways. Starting from the Westgate, 
 we follow them up Pound Lane and 
 St. Radigund's Lane to the site of the 
 old Northgate (near North gate Ch.). 
 
 We then notice them behind Broad 
 Street to where once stood Quenin- 
 gate, opposite St. Augustine's. Sub- 
 sequently we pass the site of Bur- 
 gate, at the end of Burgate Street ; 
 St. George's Gate, at the end of St. 
 George's Street ; and the Ridingate, 
 at the entrance to the Dane John. 
 We can then walk upon the walls as 
 far as where Worthgate once stood ; 
 across Wincheap (where once was 
 the Wincheap Gate) ; and, crossing 
 the road, continue by St. Mildred's 
 Churchyard, and Stour Street, with 
 its old timber houses, until we again 
 reach the Westgate. We shall then 
 get a good idea of ancient Canterbury 
 and its defences. 
 
 Canterbury is a military depot, 
 and the Barracks (at the N. end of 
 Northgate) are extensive. The Ca- 
 valry Barracks were erected in 1794 
 — they will accommodate 1500 men 
 and 450 horses. The Infantry Bar- 
 racks were built in 1798, and will 
 hold 1000 soldiers. The Artillery 
 Barracks hold 150 men and 266 
 horses. The large building behind 
 the Barracks is the Military Hos- 
 pital. The Gymnasium is worth 
 inspection. 
 
 Two modern buildings may be of 
 interest to many of the visitors 
 to Canterbury, viz. the Masonic 
 Temple, in St. Peter's Street, 
 opened with due ceremony in 1880, 
 and the Swimming Baths, in the 
 road leading S. of the Westgate. 
 They are 375 ft. long by 75 ft. wide. 
 
 From the Canterbury S. E. station 
 a branch rly. of 6 m. runs to Whit- 
 stable ; passengers are conveyed 
 several times a day each way. This 
 rly. was one of the earliest in Eng- 
 land, having been opened in 1830 ; 
 it passes very near to Whitstable 
 Church, and Tankerton Tower (once 
 the residence of the late Mr. Wynn 
 Ellis\ and terminates on the quay 
 in Whitstable harbour. (Rte. 5.) 
 
ROUTE 3. — HARBLEDOWN. 
 
 149 
 
 Another branch runs to Shorncliffe 
 and Folkestone. (Rte. 2.) 
 
 Numerous interesting Excursions 
 may be made from Canterbury. 
 In particular may be recommended 
 (a) Harbledown and its neigh- 
 bourhood ; (b) the group of villages, 
 called the i Bournes,' along the 
 Stour ; (c) Barfreston, a well-known 
 Norman ch. (post) ; (d) St. Stephen's, 
 with its interesting ch. (Rte. 4) ; 
 and (e) Chartham and Chilham 
 (Rte. 7). 
 
 (a) Harbledown, i§ m. from St. 
 Dunstan's, is Chaucer's ' little town,' 
 f which that ycleped is Bob up and 
 down, Under the Blee in Canterbury 
 way.' The fitness of the name is still 
 fully evident, and the road is still 
 4 declivis utrinque abrupto aggere,' 
 as when described by Erasmus in his 
 i Peregrinatio Religionis ergo.' The 
 village grew up about the ancient 
 lazar-house, founded by Abp. Lan- 
 franc for leprous men and women, 
 which is seen on S. The hospital is 
 dedicated to St. Nicholas, a favourite 
 saint of Lanfranc and the early Nor- 
 mans, probably from the immediate 
 patronage extended to them by Pope 
 Nicholas III. both in Campania and 
 in England (see Milman, Latin Chris- 
 tianity, iii.). The site was perhaps 
 chosen from the reputed virtues of a 
 spring close below the building, and 
 now called the i Black Prince's Well,' 
 from a false tradition that the water 
 was sent to him during his last ill- 
 ness in Canterbury, where he did 
 not die. The W. door of the Church 
 is Norman, and with the pillars and 
 round arches on the N. side of the 
 nave probably forms part of Lan- 
 franc's original foundation. The S. 
 side of the nave is E. E. The whole 
 building has been restored. There 
 are some fragments of painted glass, 
 and a Perp. font, and the choir is 
 filled with benches for service, which 
 is performed once a week. The 
 hospital was rebuilt in 1670 by Abp. 
 Sheldon, and again a few years ago ; 
 
 it now consists of two groups of very 
 neat dwelling-houses W. and S. of 
 the hill on which the ch. stands. In 
 the hall where the whole community 
 dine together once a year on their 
 saint's day (Dec. 6), is preserved a 
 chest containing a maple bowl, on 
 which is engraved Guy of Warwick's 
 fight with the dragon ; a large crys- 
 tal, loose ; and a rude box, with a 
 chain for fastening to a tree that 
 formerly grew at the gate, and a slit 
 for money in the lid. The hospital 
 formerly boasted of possessing the 
 upper leather of Becket's shoe, in 
 which a crystal was set : and one of 
 the brethren, whenever pilgrims 
 went by, appeared on the steps lead- 
 ing down into the road from 
 the doorway, to sprinkle them with 
 holy water and present the relic to 
 be kissed, after which a ' nummulus ' 
 was of course expected. So Erasmus 
 describes the scene in his ' Pere- 
 grinatio,' when his companion 
 Colet's indignation got the better of 
 his prudence, and Erasmus bestowed 
 his coin in pity for the almsman's 
 injured feelings. Dean Stanley sug- 
 gests that the crystal now shown is 
 the same as that formerly set in the 
 shoe, and that in the box with the 
 slit 1 we can hardly doubt the coin 
 of Erasmus was deposited.' The 
 original endowment was added 
 to by subsequent abps. ; and the 
 establishment now consists of a 
 master, nine brethren (two of whom 
 rejoice in the titles of prior and sub- 
 prior), and seven sisters within the 
 walls, and a variable number of out- 
 pensioners. Opposite is the parish 
 church of St. Michael : the pre- 
 sent nave and chancel erected in 
 1 88 1 ; the former nave and chancel, 
 now S. aisle, dated from the 12th 
 century. The hospital was some- 
 times called i de bosco de Blean,' 
 which came close up to its walls ; 
 and on the edge of the wood were 
 the archbishop's gallows (furcse 
 archiep.) for his hundred of West- 
 gate. 
 
 The Elizabethan house, \ m. W. of 
 Harbledown, is the residence of 
 
150 ROUTE 3. — HARBLEDOWN BISHOPSBOURNE. 
 
 Sidney Cooper, Esq., R.A. This is 
 the artist's native ground. The three 
 cows over the entrance are here 
 doubly significant. The Elizabethan 
 house, within the park, on N. side of 
 road near Canterbury, is Hall Place 
 (T. G. Peckham, Esq.). At Bigberry 
 Hill, S.E. of the road between Har- 
 bledown and Chartham, axe-heads, 
 arrow-heads, and other remains of 
 the neolithic period have been found. 
 
 A superb view of Canterbury is 
 gained from Harbledown, at which 
 point the pilgrims began to assume 
 a more reverent demeanour ; and 
 Chaucer's last story, told here, is 
 a sermon. Nothing can be more 
 striking than the great mass of the 
 cathedral and the chapter-house. 
 Far in the distance are visible the 
 white cliffs of Pegwell Bay, under 
 which Augustine landed. From a 
 field, rt., on the brow of the hill, is 
 a good view of the winding valley of 
 the Stour, through which both the 
 railways pass ; and 1. a path through 
 the churchyard leads across to St. 
 Thomas's Hill, and commands 
 throughout some of the best general 
 views of Canterbury. The little 
 Becket Chapel, which gave name to 
 St. Thomas's Hill, has found a wor- 
 thier successor in the large School 
 for Orphan Sons of the Clergy, 
 which now crowns the highest point. 
 The buildingis Dec, from the designs 
 of P. Hardwicke, and the arrange- 
 ments throughout are admirable. In- 
 stitution and building are alike 
 worthy of the i Metropolitical City,' 
 and deserve a visit as well for their 
 own sake as for the magnificent view 
 commanded from the site. 
 
 (&) Excursion by Elham Valley Rly . 
 to Bishopsbourne and Barham (Bar- 
 ham on to Folkestone, Rte. 2). 
 Leaving the station at St. Dunstan's, 
 we skirt the W. side of the town, 
 crossing Wincheap St., and reach the 
 sta. at South Canterbury. Adjoining 
 this is the Beverley Cricket Ground, one 
 of the most picturesque in England, 
 
 The next sta. is Bridge, from 
 which the village is a short walk. 
 
 The Watling Street crossed the Stour 
 at Bridge, the manor and church of 
 which belonged to the Abbey of St. 
 Augustine. The church (restored), 
 dedicated to St. Peter, is Norm, and 
 E. E., the latter predominating. On 
 the N. side of the chancel is a re- 
 markable monument, a recumbent 
 figure in a recess, in a long robe with 
 loose sleeves furred at the wrists. 
 On the 1. breast is a small quatrefoil 
 badge or clasp ; the hair is long and 
 straight. It is possibly the effigy of 
 some officer of the abbey, who had 
 the management of its land at 
 Bridge. Above, in the head of an 
 arch, are some curious carvings in 
 relief, the subjects of which are, — 
 the Deity with angels, the Tempta- 
 tion, the Expulsion, and Cain and 
 Abel. Remark the human-headed 
 serpent on the tree. The costume is 
 about the time of Richard II. In 
 the opposite wall (E. side of S. win- 
 dow) is a niche for a lamp or figure. 
 There is also a memorial of the 
 Baron de Montesquieu, grandson of 
 the famous President, who died here 
 in 1823. 
 
 Between 1630 and 1640 Cornelius 
 Jansen the artist lived much at 
 Bridge, and drew many portraits for 
 gentlemen in the neighbourhood 
 (see ante, p. 148). 
 
 We next reach Bishopsbourne 
 
 Stat., to which the village is closely 
 adjacent. Bishopsbourne is famous 
 for its connexion with Hooker, to 
 whom the living was given by Abp. 
 Whitgift in 1595. i He had not 
 been there 12 months/ says Walton, 
 1 before his books, and the innocency 
 and sanctity of his life, became so 
 remarkable, that many turned out 
 of the road, and others, scholars 
 especially, went purposely to see the 
 man/ Bishopsbourne still attracts 
 many pilgrims. The Rectory, which 
 has been greatly modernised, con- 
 tains a dining-room, the ceiling of 
 which is crossed and recrossed with 
 beams and rafters of black oak, 
 which are probably older than 
 Hooker's time. A small study be- 
 
ROUTE 3. — BISHOPSBOUENE CHURCH. — PATRIXBOURNE. 151 
 
 yond, in which he may have con- 
 ferred with Saravia, is also part of 
 the old house. In the garden is a 
 noble yew hedge. 
 
 The Church, restored in 1 840, and 
 again in 1873, is throughout Perp. 
 In the modern E. window of five 
 lights are the arms of Canterbury 
 (centre), Rochester (1.) (Bp. Murray 
 of Rochester having been rector at 
 the time of the restoration), and 
 Hooker (rt.). Hooker's Monument, 
 erected by Sir William Cowper in 
 1634, was removed in 1885 from the 
 N. to the S. wall of the chancel. It 
 is a painted bust, in cap and ruff, 
 within a circular medallion. Above 
 are two angels bearing a wreath. The 
 date here assigned for Hooker's 
 death (1603) is inaccurate. It should 
 be 1600. Sir William Cowper, w T ho, 
 says Walton, 'acknowledged Hooker 
 to have been his spiritual father,' 
 was an ardent royalist, and suffered 
 much during the troubles. The 
 Memorial Window to Hooker was 
 placed here in 1890. The parish 
 register (kept at the Rectory) con- 
 tains long entries in Hooker's writ- 
 ing. 
 
 On the S. side of the nave, above 
 the capital of the pillar opposite the 
 pulpit, is a niche in which stood the 
 image of the Virgin, patroness of 
 the ch., to whom William Hawte 
 gave by his will in 1462 sundry re- 
 lics, including a piece of the stone 
 on which the archangel Gabriel de- 
 scended when he saluted her, for 
 the image to rest its feet upon. 
 
 In Gorsley wood, in this parish, 3 
 tumuli we re opened in 1882. Within 
 each was discovered a ' kist-vaen ' 
 or stone chest for burial. Some 
 bones and a skull, and several orna- 
 ments were found in them. (They 
 may be viewed on Thursday after- 
 noons. The admission fee (6d.) is 
 given to the County Hospital). The 
 place where cremation had taken 
 place could be traced. It will be 
 noticed that the mounds are progres- 
 sive in their altitude. 
 
 [From Bishopsbourne the tourist 
 may best visit Upper Hardres (2 m. 
 S.W.). 
 
 The Church ofTTpper Hardres is 
 
 for the most part E. E., and contains 
 a good brass for John Strete, rector, 
 1405, kneeling before a bracket which 
 supports the effigies of SS. Peter and 
 Paul. There are some inscriptions 
 for the Hardres family, who seem 
 to have been settled here from a 
 period soon after the Conquest, and 
 who continued to reside at Hardres 
 Court until Sir William Hardres 
 died without issue in 1764. Notice 
 also the brasses to the Hardres 
 family, and ancient stained glass in 
 the E. windows. At Hardres Court 
 (now a farmhouse) the gates of 
 Boulogne were long preserved i in 
 the garden wall, opposite the ch/ 
 Thomas Hardres, who was present 
 with Henry VIII. at the siege of 
 Boulogne, was permitted to bring 
 away these gates as a mark of his 
 services. They have long disap- 
 peared. The hunting-knife of 
 Henry VIII. was also shown here. 
 The king, it was said, had left it at 
 Hardres Court as an additional mark 
 of favour, after passing two days in 
 the house on his return from France. 
 
 Through this parish runs the 
 ancient Stone Street (see Rte. 2), along 
 which the tourist may still travel 
 nearly as far as Hythe. The country 
 is much wooded and very pleasant. 
 At Petham, on the W. side of the 
 Stone Street, are remains of intrench- 
 ments which, as usual in this part 
 of Kent, are called Caesar's.] 
 
 Returning to Bridge, and still fol- 
 lowing the stream, we reach at 1 m. 
 Patrixbourne, where is a small 
 Norm. Church cf much interest. At 
 the E. end are three circular-headed 
 windows, w T ith a fine rose or Catherine 
 wheel, like that of Barfreston (post). 
 Over the S. door of the chancel is a 
 figure in a scaled hauberk, perhaps 
 representing St. Michael. The S. 
 
 ( door of the nave, looking out from 
 a mass of ivy which clusters all over 
 
 I the tower, is very rich. In the tym- 
 
152 
 
 ROUTE 3 . — PATRIXBOURNE. BEKESBOURNE . 
 
 panum is a figure of the Saviour, 
 with a triply rayed nimbus ; be- 
 neath his feet are dragons and a dog. 
 The Caen stone mouldings are as 
 sharp as if just finished. A sort of 
 leaf or quatrefoil ornament indicates 
 that this door was not completed 
 until the style was on the point of 
 changing. At the end of the 12th 
 cent, the ch. belonged to the Priory 
 of Beaulieu (near Rouen) in Nor- 
 mandy, by which house it was per- 
 haps built. The columns and arches 
 within are heavy Norm. There are 
 some modern stained windows, and 
 others filled with Flemish glass of 
 the 16th cent. The interior of the 
 ch. was restored in 1857 by Sir G. 
 G. Scott ; the Conyngham crest and 
 motto are very conspicuous. There 
 is a handsome marble monument to 
 the first Marquis Conyngham (1832). 
 
 The Vicarage beyond has the 
 Conyngham crest over the door, in- 
 dicating the patronage of that family. 
 The house of Bifrons (Marquess of 
 Conyngham) adjoins. In the draw- 
 ing-room is a fine full-length of 
 George IV. by Lawrence. Along the 
 front of the house a Mr. Taylor, who 
 rebuilt it in 1770, placed this inscrip- 
 tion 1 in commendation of his wife* : 
 i Diruta sedificat uxor bona, sedifi- 
 cata diruit mala.' Near Patrix- 
 bourne an Anglo-Saxon cemetery 
 was discovered in 1866. It is de- 
 scribed in Arch. Cant. vol. vi. Pass- 
 ing close to the village of King- 
 stone, the line next reaches Barham 
 Sta. Barham and the route on to 
 Folkestone are described on pp. 47, 
 &c. 
 
 Bekesbourne and Littlebourne will 
 be most readily reached from the 
 Bekesbourne Stat. (post). 
 
 Canterbury to Dover — London, Chatham, 
 and Dover Railway. 
 
 Beyond Canterbury the rly. pro- 
 ceeds N. of the old high road to 
 Dover, from which it is never very 
 far distant. The road, however, 
 keeps the high ground, over Barham 
 
 Downs ; the rly. winds through the 
 valleys on the N. side of this ridge. 
 
 The country is not so wooded as 
 among the hills of the Blean W. of 
 Canterbury ; and in some parts has 
 much in common with the bare, 
 open landscape which used to delight 
 the traveller by diligence S. of 
 Calais. The high ridge of Barham 
 Downs, and the valley of the Dour 
 beyond them, are the principal fea- 
 tures. 
 
 64I m. Bekesbourne (Stat). 
 
 Bekesbourne lies in the valley 
 of the Little Stour, the 1 bourne ' or 
 river which gives its name to the 
 many neighbouring bournes (Little- 
 bourne, Bishopsbourne, &c). The 
 Lesser Stour, which joins the larger 
 river near Sarre, was perhaps 
 formerly navigable for small craft 
 as high as Bekesbourne : the parish 
 at all events became a member 
 of the Hastings Cinque Port, and 
 was held in grand sergeantry, by 
 the service of finding one ship for 
 the king ; that on which he himself 
 embarked. The parish was named 
 from Hugh de Beche (1 171-75). 
 Supposing that Caesar's second land- 
 ing can be fixed with certainty at 
 Deal, the river behind which he 
 found the Britons posted, after his 
 12 hours' night march, may have 
 been the Lesser Stour, and the 
 skirmish in which Laberius Durus 
 was killed may have taken place 
 somewhere about Bekesbourne (De 
 B. G. v. 8-1 1), a view supported by 
 the late Emperor Napoleon III. 
 Chilham, on the Greater Stour also 
 claims to have been the site of the 
 battle. 
 
 Kt. are the very scanty remains of 
 the Archbishop's Palace, consist- 
 ing of part of the gatehouse and pri- 
 son, formerly in one. The body of the 
 palace was destroyed after the death 
 of Abp. Laud. In the inner wall of 
 the prison (long the residence of Dr. 
 Beke the Abyssinian traveller) have 
 been inserted two stones, removed 
 from the gatehouse, one with the 
 arms of Cranmer quartering an un- 
 
ROUTE 3. — BEKESBOURNE. LITTLEBOURNE. 
 
 153 
 
 recognised coat, and the other with 
 Cranmer's initials — *a.d. T. C 1552: 
 Nosce Teipsum et Deum.' By the 
 side of the stream which flowed past 
 the palace walls, whose foundations 
 have been laid bare, remark an 
 enormous walnut, with twisted and 
 gnarled boughs. Cranmer (who had 
 acquired the property by an exchange 
 with the monks of Ch. Ch., Canter- 
 bury) retired to this palace on the 
 accession of Queen Mary ; and hid 
 some papers (said to have been his 
 will) behind the wainscot of the 
 gallery, where they were found 
 when the rebels pulled down the 
 palace, as some one who saw them 
 told Batteley. From this place 
 Cranmer removed to Ford (Rte. 2), 
 whence he was committed to the 
 Tower. Archbishop Parker resided 
 here frequently, as appears from his 
 correspondence ; and it was also the 
 residence of Ralph Morice, Cran- 
 mer's secretary, who, at Parker's re- 
 quest, committed to paper his re- 
 miniscences of his former master. 
 The Church stands E. on a hillock, 
 and is E. E, with some Norm, por- 
 tions. The E. windows are double 
 lancets, instead of triple as usual. 
 (This arrangement also occurs at 
 Upper Hardres and at Thanington.") 
 In the nave is the tombstone of 
 Nicholas Batteley the antiquary, 
 vicar of Bekesbourne, d. 1704. 
 
 In making the rly. cutting here 
 in 1858, the workmen came upon a 
 remarkable shaft formed of oaken 
 beams, about 12 ft. high, and 3 ft. 
 square. It was 13 ft. below the sur- 
 face, and was filled with flints, among 
 which were seven or eight urns, 
 apparently Roman. At the bottom 
 of the shaft a circle of horses' teeth 
 was arranged on a flat stone. The 
 shaft was destroyed by the work- 
 men. (See it figured in Arch. Cant. 
 vol. ii.) No similar interment has 
 anywhere been discovered. 
 
 From Bekesbourne a field path 
 along the Stour valley, which is 
 here pleasantly wooded, leads to the 
 ruined chapel of Well. It is E. E. 
 and picturesque. Near this is Hoiv- 
 
 letts. In the grounds are some fine 
 old cedars. Lee Priory, beyond, a 
 modern Elizabethan mansion by 
 Scott (Francis Philips, Esq.), occu- 
 pies the site of the residence of Sir 
 Egerton Brydges. Horace Walpole's 
 i daughter of Strawberry, fairer than 
 Strawberry herself,' was certainly 
 more substantial than her distin- 
 guished parent, but still fantastic 
 enough. The house was entirely 
 remodelled by Wyatt towards the 
 close of the last cent., under the 
 auspices of its then owner, Thomas 
 Barrett, Esq. The great oriel win- 
 dow was merely a piece of external 
 effect. The Library (also an ' effect ') 
 was fitted as a chapel with a small 
 altar in a recess. Throughout, the 
 house exhibited a strange mixture of 
 churchwarden's Gothic with the 
 white paint and gilding fashionable 
 at the time of its reconstruction. 
 The park surrounding the house has 
 much broken ground, with some 
 good scenery. At the death of Mr. 
 Barrett in 1803, Lee Priory passed 
 by will to the eldest son of Sir Eger- 
 ton Brydges, then a minor. Sir 
 Egerton himself afterwards resided 
 here, and in 1813 established the 
 Lee Priory Press, the reprints from 
 which are well known to all book 
 collectors. The pictures formerly 
 here, some of them very fine, were 
 dispersed by auction when the estate 
 passed out of the hands of the 
 Brydges family. 
 
 Near the Lee Priory is Little- 
 bourne, the last of the i bourne 1 
 group in this direction. The church 
 mainly E. E. Remark, in the ch.- 
 yard, a very elegant monument, in 
 white marble, to the memory of 
 Adela, granddaughter of General 
 Ortegoso, Vice-President of Peru. 
 
 Continuing on the road which runs 
 N. from Littlebourne, by the river, 
 we reach Ickham and Wickham- 
 breux. The former church is E. E. 
 with good tower and spire — the 
 latter has been beautifully restored. 
 Littlebourne, Ickham and Wickham 
 intersect each other in most perplex- 
 
154 
 
 ROUTE 3. — ADISHAM. CHILLENDEN. 
 
 ing fashion. The village green at 
 Wickham is pleasing. Beneath the 
 window in the N. transept at Ick- 
 ham is an arched recess in which is 
 the stone figure of a priest in skull 
 cap and eucharistic vestments — a 
 cushion is beneath his head, and a 
 dog at his feet. There is also a 
 tablet to Sir W. Southland, of Lee 
 Priory, 1638. 
 
 67 1 m. Adisham (Stat.). 
 
 The scenery here, on the N. side 
 of Barham Downs, is for the most 
 part very pleasant, with broad pas- 
 toral valleys, throughout which tufts 
 of wood, mostly beech or ash, are 
 scattered at intervals. Above them 
 rise green, unenclosed hills, com- 
 manding very fine views over the 
 country seaward. The spire of 
 Wingham (Rte. 4) is conspicuous. 
 The parks of Goodnestone, Knowl- 
 ton, St. Alban's, and Fredville, with 
 their rich masses of foliage, add not 
 a little to the beauty of the near 
 landscape. 
 
 Adisham itself is interesting from 
 its connexion with the Priory of 
 Christ Church, Canterbury, to which 
 foundation it was granted by King 
 Eadbald in 616, free of all tribute 
 except the well-known ' trinoda ne- 
 cessitas,' the 1 three needs ' — contri- 
 butions toward the repair of castles 
 and bridges, and assistance in the 
 'fyrd' or military expedition. In 
 all subsequent grants to the church 
 of Canterbury, involving similar pri- 
 vileges, it was usual to insert the 
 words * Libere sicut Adisham/ or 
 the letters L.S.A., instead of record- 
 ing the various immunities at length. 
 The manor still continues in the 
 possession of the Canterbury Chap- 
 ter, to which it was restored by 
 Henry VIII. The Church, dedicated 
 to the Holy Innocents, is cruciform, 
 with a central tower. The greater 
 part is E. E. There are no monu- 
 ments of importance. 
 
 [ij m. E. from Adisham is Good- 
 nestone (commonly called Gunstori) 
 Park (the residence of the late Sir 
 
 Brook Bridges, Bt., M.P., first and 
 last Lord Fitzwalter, whose family 
 had been settled here since the reign 
 of Queen Anne). The house was 
 rebuilt in 1733. The church, which 
 adjoins, is E. E. with Perp. tower ; 
 it was restored by Lord Fitzw. Brass : 
 William Boys, wife and eight child- 
 ren, 1507. 
 
 The adjoining parish of Chillen- 
 den (S.) is best known from its 
 having given name to the prior of 
 Christ Church, Canterbury (d. 141 1), 
 who did so much for his monastery 
 and cathedral. (See Canterbury, 
 ante.) The Church here, however, 
 belonged to the Priory of Leeds. It is 
 very small, late Norm., with Perp. 
 windows inserted. The N. and S. 
 doors are the original Norm. From 
 this point the tourist may return to 
 the Dover road by a road skirting 
 the parks, which almost join each 
 other, cf Knoivlton (N. H. D'Aeth, 
 Esq.), St. Albans Court (W. O. Ham- 
 mond, Esq.), and Fredville (C. J. 
 Plumptre, Esq.). At St. Alban's, re- 
 built 1875, which was bought by 
 the ancestor of the present proprie- 
 tor, temp. Philip and Mary, is the 
 portrait by Jansen of the beautiful 
 Lady Bowyer, called 'the Star in 
 the East/ painted during Jansen's 
 residence at Bridge (see ante). The 
 house contains some other pictures 
 cf interest. In Fredville Park are 
 some of the most remarkable trees 
 in this part of Kent— the grandest 
 being an enormous oak, which stands 
 not far from the house, and is well- 
 known throughout all the country 
 as 4 the Fredville Oak/ It is of no 
 great height, but measures 36 ft. in 
 girth. The rarity of the oak through- 
 out the district renders this tree 
 especially worthy of notice. Its age 
 is unknown ; but it may have 
 shadowed the Saxon hunter long be- 
 fore the ' alien king ' fought for his 
 new crown at Hastings. Fred- 
 ville was held of the Castle of Dover, 
 and formed part of the barony of 
 Saye. In the reign of Richard III. 
 it came into the hands of the Boys 
 
ROUTE 3. — NONINGTON CHURCH — BARHAM DOWNS. 155 
 
 family, who suffered much during 
 the civil war, and whose last repre- 
 sentatives (about 1673), John and 
 Nicholas Boys, ' finding that there 
 was no further abode at Fredville, 
 departed each from thence, with a 
 favourite hawk in hand, and became 
 pensioners at the Charterhouse in 
 London/ — (Hasted. ) 
 
 The Church of Nonington, in 
 which parish Fredville stands, is for 
 the most part E. E., but of no great 
 interest. Passing rt. the small E.E. 
 ch. of Women s would, otherwise 
 Wymynswold, which has nothing to 
 detain the tourist, the main road is re- 
 gained nearly opposite Broome Park. 
 At Denne Hill (F. J. Dyson, Esq.), round 
 which the road winds, are traces of 
 very extensive intrenchments, which 
 early antiquaries regarded as indi- 
 cations of the line of Caesar's inland 
 march from Deal.] 
 
 [From Adisham the tourist may 
 cross Barham Downs, rt., and visit 
 the church of Barham, 3 m. S. 
 
 The air of all this district is un- 
 usually bracing, and instances of 
 great longevity are common. The 
 soil is thin and indifferent. Like 
 the central moors of the ( kingdom of 
 Fife/ which it much resembles, it 
 is the ' frieze garment ' of Kent, 
 here a district of ' health without 
 wealth/ As the chalk hills slope, 
 however, toward Thanet on the N. 
 and the country about Folkestone 
 S. (the valley of Elham— Rte. 2), 
 the * golden border ' rapidly gains 
 on the frieze, as is the case in Scot- 
 land. 
 
 Barham Downs, properly so 
 called, are about 4 miles long, the ele- 
 vation being greatest at their E. end. 
 From the wide extent of open 
 ground afforded by them on the 
 direct line of the Watling Street, 
 they have been the scene of sundry 
 great ' gatherings,' from the days of 
 Caesar to those in which Napoleon's 
 camp threatened i Kent and Chris- 
 tendom ' from the opposite heights 
 of Boulogne. King John's army 
 [Kent] 
 
 of 60,000 men was encamped here 
 in 1213, when Philip Augustus was 
 preparing for that invasion of Eng- 
 land, afterwards accomplished by 
 his son Louis. On this occasion the 
 king and Pandulph the legate met, 
 first at Temple Ewell, about 5 m. 
 distant (post , and afterwards at 
 Dover, where the king resigned his 
 crown to the ' Italian priest ' in 
 the house of the Templars there. 
 A more solemn resignation after- 
 wards took place in St. Paul's 
 Cathedral, London. (See, for a good 
 account of all this period, Milman's 
 Latin Christianity, iv.) A large body 
 of troops was assembled on Barham 
 Downs by Simon de Montfort, temp. 
 Henry III., in order to oppose 
 the landing of Queen Eleanor from 
 France. Here Henrietta Maria, after 
 landing at Dover, May 10, 1625, 
 during her progress to Canterbury 
 with the king, found a number of 
 the court ladies awaiting her. Hen- 
 rietta left her carriage, and held 
 her first English 1 drawing-room ' 
 on Barham Downs, in a tent which 
 had been pitched for her reception. 
 The last great assemblage on these 
 downs was the camp formed at the 
 time of Napoleon's Boulogne demon- 
 stration, of which traces are still 
 visible. On Barham Downs used to 
 take place the nomination of candi- 
 dates for the representation of the 
 County. 
 
 A small square intrenchment with 
 a single vallum exists on the side of 
 the hill facing Kingston church. 
 Numerous barrows, great numbers 
 of which were opened by Mr. Faus- 
 sett of Heppington, are scattered 
 over the downs. They are of various 
 periods, from early British to Saxon. 
 Twine [de Reb. Albion.) describes the 
 opening of a very large one here in 
 the reign of Henry VIII., in which 
 much armour of unusual size was 
 found. His description is too vague 
 however to determine its character. 
 
 The Canterbury races, no longer 
 of much importance, are held on 
 Barham Downs. 
 
 Broome Park (a seat of the Oxen- 
 
 N 
 
156 ROUTE 3. — BARHAM DOWNS — BARFRESTON. 
 
 dens\ the house of most architec- 
 tural character in the neighbourhood, 
 was built about 1620 by a member 
 of the Dixwell family, whose ' pyra- 
 mid ' appears in the S. aisle of Bar- 
 ham church. There are some fine 
 beeches in the park.] 
 
 The old turnpike-road, rt. of the 
 railway, had in former days an evil 
 reputation as the favourite haunt of 
 nocturnal phantoms, especially of 
 Robin Goodfellow and his friends. 
 * By this time,' wrote Reginald Scot 
 in 1582, ' all Kentishmen (some few 
 fooles excepted) know that Robin 
 Goodfellow is a knave/ He could 
 still, however, 
 
 4 Mislead night wanderers, laughing at their 
 harm,' 
 
 when Hentzner, in 1598, passed over 
 this road on his way to Dover. He 
 was led astray, as he asserts, by a 
 pair of horsemen, whose horses, 
 dress, and general appearance ex- 
 actly resembled those of his own 
 companions, from whom he had been 
 accidentally separated. He followed 
 them for some distance ; but finding 
 that they preserved a mysterious 
 silence, that they rode direct into 
 the marshes, that fire broke forth 
 wherever their horses' feet struck 
 the earth, and that Will-with-the 
 wisps came gathering round in great 
 numbers, he became alarmed, and 
 stopped. Fortunately his guide 
 sounded his horn at that moment, 
 and recalled him to the right track. 
 His companions had seen nothing. 
 
 The greater part of Wootton Court, 
 which lies on a hill rt. of the main 
 road, was rebuilt toward the end 
 of the last cent. The earlier life of 
 Sir Egerton Brydges was spent here, 
 and in the neighbouring parish of 
 Denton ; and here he made those 
 observations on the ' provincial 
 dignity' of the Kentish squires, 
 which he turned to account in his 
 subsequent novels, not however 
 without finding that nature had 
 provided even Kentish squires with 
 tolerably efficient means of self- 
 
 defence. (See his Autobiography, 
 vol. i.) 
 
 7if m. Shepherd's "Well (Stat.). 
 
 This is the vernacular for Siberfcs- 
 wold, a village. The small Trans. - 
 Norman ch. has been rebuilt. Notice 
 the font of a dark polished stone. The 
 village is built round a green, with a 
 pond in the centre, producing rather 
 a pretty effect. The adjoining down 
 was the scene of many of Bryan 
 Faussett's discoveries. 
 
 Barfreston (better known here 
 as Bar son) is distant i| m. N. W. 
 The village stands picturesquely in 
 a hollow, surrounded with wood-clad 
 hills (notice the yew-trees). The 
 Church is on a hill rising up in the 
 centre of the valley. This Church 
 is the 1 lion ' of the district, and one 
 of the most remarkable Norm, build- 
 ings in England. Its enrichments 
 are ruder than those of Ifney, near 
 Oxford, with which church it has 
 perhaps most in common, and its 
 date is probably much earlier. In 
 this county the church of Patrix- 
 bourne (see ante) seems most to have 
 resembled Barfreston. Hugh de 
 Port, Constable of Dover, on whom 
 the manor of Barfreston was be- 
 stowed, has been pointed out as the 
 probable builder of the ch. Abp. 
 Lanfranc, Gundulf Bishop of Roches- 
 ter, and Prior Ernulf of Canterbury, 
 had introduced Caen stone and good 
 masons to England, and the Norman 
 lords in many parts of Kent seem to 
 have eagerly taken advantage of 
 them. 
 
 The walls of Barfreston church 
 are 2 ft. 9 in. thick ; the exterior of 
 Caen stone, the middle filled in with 
 rubble. Remark the wreathed pil- 
 lars of the chancel arch, — the ex- 
 terior corbel-heads, — the niches for 
 figures all round the exterior walls, 
 — the great S. entrance, — the circu- 
 lar window of the chancel, — and the 
 two arches below (without the 
 walls), which, it has been suggested, 
 may have been intended to serve 
 as burial-places for the founder's 
 
ROUTE 3. — BARFRESTON — LYDDEN. 
 
 157 
 
 family. The chancel has been re- 
 stored with much care, but the nave 
 still needs repair. The best sculp- 
 tures are over the S. door, and 
 around the E. window of the chan- 
 cel (exterior). Over the S. door the 
 first or outer semicircular arch con- 
 tains figures of human beings in 
 various attitudes and employments : 
 some very grotesque. The second 
 or inner moulding contains twelve 
 smaller figures, mostly of animals, 
 executed with a wonderful amount 
 of humour ; and in very good pre- 
 servation. Immediately above the 
 door is the figure of our Lord, en- 
 throned in glory, surrounded by 
 scrollwork and heads of saints and 
 bishops. Above our Lord, in the 
 centre is a larger head of a bishop 
 or abbot. On each side of the circu- 
 lar east window is a round niche, 
 containing one a horseman, and the 
 other a gryphon. Outside there are 
 recesses or niches. On the S. side 
 is a sculpture of a large bird. 
 
 There are remains of wall paint- 
 ings within the window recess at 
 the N. end of the chancel — apparently 
 of the Virgin and infant Saviour. 
 There were other paintings on the 
 N. wall of the chancel. In the 
 chancel is a memorial stone to 
 Thomas Boys, 1599. 
 
 In visiting Barf res ton either from 
 Canterbury or Dover, the excursion 
 should be prolonged to Walder- 
 share and the church of Coldred. 
 The rich tree masses of Waldershare 
 Park (Earl of Guildford), which lies 
 about 2 m. off the Dover road, and 
 2 m. S. from Barfreston, together 
 with its lofty Belvidere, are con- 
 spicuous from a great distance. The 
 house was built by Sir Henry Fur- 
 nese, temp. Will. III. The park is 
 extensive and well stocked with 
 deer. From the tower of the Belvi- 
 dere, which strangers are allowed to 
 ascend, there is a very wide view 
 over all this part of E. Kent, with a 
 broad stretch of sea, and the French 
 coast beyond. Waldershare passed, 
 through the Malmaynes, the Mo- 
 
 nyngs, and the Furneses, to the 
 Guildford family in 1790. The 
 farm-house of Maintains, at the N. 
 end of the parish, occupies the site 
 of the original mansion. 
 
 The Church, which is nearly 
 covered with ivy, contains a stately 
 monument by Bushnell, erected by 
 Sir Robert Furnese, at the begin- 
 ning of the last cent., to his father, 
 Sir Henry. It is in the true taste 
 of the time — a pyramid, supported 
 by four life-sized female figures. 
 Remark the noble yews in the 
 churchyard. 
 
 The Church of Coldred, which 
 adjoins Waldershare Park, S., has an 
 E. E. bell-gable for two bells. It 
 stands on the summit of a hill, and 
 within an oval intrenchment, the 
 area of which contains about two 
 acres. At the N.E. corner is a lofty 
 mound, resembling that of Wodnes- 
 borough (Rte. 4). It has recently 
 been fully restored. A well of very 
 great depth was discovered many 
 years since in cutting a road through 
 the centre of the intrenchment ; 
 and Roman sepulchral remains have 
 been found in Waldershare Park 
 (about \ m. distant), indicating the 
 existence there of an extensive ceme- 
 tery. The intrenchments at Coldred 
 were made, says tradition, 4 by a 
 king of the same name.' Hasted 
 suggests that there may be here 
 some recollection of Ceolred of 
 Mercia, who seems to have been in 
 Kent in the year 715. The ch. itself 
 has little interest, with the excep- 
 tion perhaps of the W. bell-turrets, 
 which, uncommon in England, are 
 frequent on the opposite side of the 
 Channel. 
 
 On the N. side of Waldershare 
 Park is Eythorne, where is an 
 Anabaptist congregation which 
 claims to be the oldest Noncon- 
 formist body in England, and to 
 have numbered among its members 
 Joan Bocher, the Anabaptist, burnt 
 in 1550. 
 
 At Lydden, rt. of the high road, 
 
 K 2 
 
158 
 
 ROUTE 4. — LONDON TO DEAL. 
 
 ii J m. from Canterbury, are the 
 sources of a kind of 1 nailbourne,' 
 which is said to have an under- 
 ground connection with the waters 
 called for this reason the i Lydden 
 spouts/ falling into the sea from the 
 cliffs at Hougham, about 4 m. dis- 
 tant (Rte. 2.) The church at 
 Lydden has been restored. 
 
 From this point to Dover the turn- 
 pike-road runs between lofty, bare 
 chalk hills, not unpicturesque, and 
 commanding fine views from their 
 summits. The little river Dour, 
 which rises here, and gives name to 
 Dover, accompanies the road through 
 the valley to the harbour. 
 
 75 m. Kearsney (Stat.), for 
 Ewell. 
 
 The manor of Ewell was granted 
 by William Peverell to the Knights 
 Templars before 11 85 ; and it in 
 consequence obtained the name of 
 'lemple Ewell. It was here that King 
 John had his first interview with 
 Pandulph, before resigning his 
 crown at Dover. (See Rte. 2.) The 
 recognition by King John of the 
 right of Abp. Langton to the see of 
 Canterbury, which was one result 
 of the meeting, is dated from 'The 
 Temple of Ewell/ The edifice stood 
 on the hill above the village, and 
 some fragments remained until the 
 middle of the last century. The 
 church (restored) is a small Norman 
 building, with low tower at the W. 
 End. 
 
 At Kearsney branches off the line 
 to Martin Mill (for St. Margaret's 
 and St. Margaret's Bay), Walmer 
 and Deal. See Rte. 4. 
 
 The railway is carried chiefly in a 
 cutting, but a very picturesque view 
 occurs on the road about 1 m. be- 
 yond Ewell, where the church and 
 village of River are seen rt., whilst 
 in front the valley opens to Dover 
 and the sea, the castle rising grandly 
 1. Close adjoining is Kearmey Abbey 
 (Marchioness of Ely), with very 
 beautiful grounds. 
 
 Turning to the right from the vil- 
 
 | lage of River, a winding road, up 
 I the hill, leads us to St. Radi- 
 I gund's Abbey, which has been 
 described under Rte. 2. 
 
 At the little village of Buckland 
 the stream of the Dour is crossed : 
 beyond it, 1., is seen the small 
 church of Charlton, rebuilt in 
 1820. 
 
 7 7 J- m. Dover Priory (Stat.). For 
 notice of the Priory see Rte. 2. A 
 tunnel, 615 yards long, pierces the 
 Heights, and we reach at 
 
 78 m. The Dover Terminus, 
 
 of coloured brick, with clock- 
 tower. A line of rails (used 
 only by the Express Boat trains) is 
 carried alongside of the harbour to 
 the Admiralty Pier, close to which 
 is the S. E. Rly. stat. (Rte. 2.), and 
 another line runs to the S.E.R. stat., 
 affording through communication 
 from Ramsgate and Deal to Folke- 
 stone. 
 For Dover see p. 50. 
 
 ROUTE 4. 
 
 london to deal, by canterbury, 
 sandwich [richborough and 
 ash]. 
 
 (South- Eastern Railway.) 
 
 [By L. C. & D. Railway to Canter- 
 bury, 6i| m. ; by S. E. R. 70 m.] 
 
 For the different lines of rly. to 
 Canterbury Slat, see Rtes. 2 and 3. 
 
 A very short distance N. of the 
 Canterbury stat., and half hidden 
 in trees, is the old Church of St. 
 Stephens (otherwise Hackington). 
 On this site Archbishop Baldwin 
 (temp. Henry II.) attempted to 
 establish a college for secular 
 canons, with the object of trans- 
 ferring to them the right of electing 
 to the archbishopric. This had 
 hitherto been claimed by the monks 
 
EOUTE 4. — ST. STEPHENS CHURCH — STURRY. 159 
 
 of Christ Church. The building i 
 was commenced, but the monks, 
 whose privileges were thus assailed, 
 were violently hostile, and at length 
 obtained a bull prohibiting the 
 college altogether. In it the site is 
 called * maledictum et profanum.' 
 The rectory belonged to the Arch- 
 deacon of Canterbury, who has now 
 the patronage of the benefice. For 
 three centuries before the Reforma- 
 tion the archdeacons resided here ; 
 and Abp. Warham died here in the 
 house of his kinsman Archdeacon 
 Warham. The earliest portions of 
 the existing ch. are thought to have 
 formed part of Baldwin's foundation. 
 The W. tower has massive E. E. 
 buttresses, and the W. door is E. E. 
 with very rich dog-tooth mouldings. 
 The nave is also E. E. The wide 
 circular transept arches, and the 
 S. door ivithin the porch, with a 
 diapered tympanum, are earlier. 
 Some of the windows exhibit un- 
 usual forms of Dec. tracery, and the 
 E. window of the chancel, which is 
 Perp., has a smaller light on either 
 side. The whole ch. has been w r ell 
 and carefully restored, and contains 
 some good stained glass by Wille- 
 ment. The font, 1591, for that time 
 of unusually good Perp. form, was 
 given by Sir Roger Manwood, Chief 
 Baron of the Exchequer temp. Eliz., 
 whose monument is in the S. tran- 
 sept. This was completed in 1592, 
 before the death of Sir Roger, and is 
 an excellent specimen of the Eliza- 
 bethan monument. It is of ala- 
 baster and painted. The bust 
 exhibits the bearded chief baron in 
 his red robe, collar of SS (the earliest 
 example of a Lord Chief Baron of 
 the Exchequer being decorated with 
 this collar — see Mr. Foss's very in- 
 teresting paper on the collar of SS 
 in the Arch. Cant. vol. i.), coif, and 
 black cap. Above is an achieve- 
 ment ; and underneath a skeleton 
 reposes on a mattress. There is a 
 long inscription. 
 
 The manor fell into the hands of 
 the Manwoods after the Dissolution, 
 and Sir Roger built a large 'Place 
 
 House ' in the field S. of the ch., of 
 which the foundations still exist. 
 The almshouses beyond were founded 
 by him, as was also the grammar- 
 school at Sandwich (post). His letters 
 and will (see Boys' Sandwich) give 
 a fine picture of his life at St. 
 Stephen's, at a time when the duties 
 of property were insisted on as 
 strongly as its rights. The manor 
 subsequently became the property of 
 the Hales family, one of whom, Sir 
 Edward Hales, a convert to Roman- 
 ism, figured in the trials relating 
 to the king's dispensing power 
 (Macaulay, i. 84), and was afterwards 
 the companion of James II. in his 
 attempted flight from Sheppey ; he 
 was taken with the king, and ' at 
 that very moment a band of rioters 
 was employed in pillaging his house 
 (at St. Stephen's) and shooting his 
 deer.' {Macaulay, i. 570.) About 
 1780 this house was entirely pulled 
 down ; and the present Hales Place 
 built on the ground above. Hales 
 Place was purchased in 1881 by the 
 Jesuits — who built on to the house a 
 large school, for the education of the 
 sons of French Catholic Royalists — 
 in consequence of the passing of the 
 law which had rendered it im- 
 possible to carry on such institutions 
 in Paris. The school is no longer 
 carried on here, as a more tolerant 
 spirit has prevailed in France, but 
 the premises are now used for a 
 theological seminary. The park is 
 fine — the woods are picturesque — on 
 the high ground above fine views 
 are gained of Canterbury and the 
 Stour valley. The buildings on the 
 top of the hill, above Hales Place, 
 were at one time the abode of a 
 body of Benedictine Monks. 
 
 72! m. Sturry (Stat.). An omni- 
 bus from Heme Bay (Rte. 5) meets 
 several of the trains. 
 
 The village (anciently Esturei, 
 i. e. Stour Island) is very pleasantly 
 situated (Pop. 1175^. The Cfr., dedi- 
 cated to St. Nicholas, stands in a 
 grove of chestnut-trees. The chancel 
 is Norm., the rest Perp. The manor 
 was part of the original grant of 
 
160 
 
 ROUTE 4. — FORDWICH — SARRE. 
 
 Ethelbert to St. Augustine's Monas- 
 tery. The abbots had a summer 
 residence here, in which, after the 
 Dissolution, the last abbot died. 
 (Twine, de Reb. Albion.) The whole 
 manor had been assigned to him. 
 Near the ch. are some few relics of 
 Sturry Court, a James I. house of the 
 Lords Strangford. Westbere Ch. 
 (ij m. N.E. from Sturry) is one of 
 the few monastic churches which 
 has remained unaltered from the 
 14th cent, to the present time. It 
 belonged to St. Augustine's, Canter- 
 bury. It has been restored in a 
 conservative manner. Much ancient 
 woodwork carefully preserved. 
 
 On the opposite bank of the Stour 
 is the village of Fordwich (pop. 
 228), a member of the Sandwich 
 Cinque Port, and until recently 
 possessed of a mayor. Before the 
 great changes on the coast, the tide 
 flowed as high as this ; ships were 
 moored here, and goods landed. The 
 Domesday survey records 10 mills 
 and 7 fisheries on the stream at this 
 point, so much larger was it than at 
 present. The manor was given by 
 the Confessor of St. Augustine's. 
 Fordwich trout (still to be taken) 
 differ i from all others in many con- 
 siderables,' says Fuller, 4 as, great- 
 ness, — colour, cutting white instead 
 of red when in season, • — cunning, 
 not being takeable with an angle, — 
 and abode, remaining nine months 
 in the sea, whence they observe their 
 coming up almost to a day.' They 
 are salmon-peel. 
 
 The Ch. which is small, stands 
 close to the river. It has some 
 fragments of painted glass, and a 
 good Brass, to Aphra Hawkins 
 (i6o5\ figured in Haines's Monum. 
 Brasses. 
 
 An ancient stone shrine (?) 
 figured by Hasted, and said by him 
 to have been removed from the nave 
 of Fordwich Church to the Cathedral 
 precincts, is now placed in the 
 cloister. In the muniment chest of 
 the town hall are preserved many 
 interesting documents ; notably a 
 
 letter from Edward IV. to the Mayor, 
 1462; churchwardens' accounts from 
 1501 ; a 'custumal' in 15th cent, 
 characters (containing a calendar, 
 description of town limits, and other 
 matters) ; proceedings before the 
 Mayor from 1216, &c. 
 
 In a lane leading to Elbridge and 
 the Trimley Woods, is a well, popularly 
 said to be the Thefes welle, in which 
 thieves were drowned. Fordwich, 
 as a limb of a cinque port, had the 
 right of inflicting capital punish- 
 ment by its own laws. 
 
 76 1 m. Grove Ferry (Stat.)*. 
 The ferry gives access to Stourmouth, 
 Preston, Wingham, &c, on the road 
 between Canterbury and Sandwich. 
 Grove Ferry is a pleasant excursion 
 of some 6 m. by river from Fordwich. 
 
 1 1 m. N. of the line is Chislett, 
 an ancient manor of Ch. Ch., Canter- 
 bury, which has an interesting E.E. 
 Church, with a low massive tower at 
 the intersection of nave and chancel. 
 The interior corbels of the chancel 
 windows (long lancets) have monas- 
 tic heads with admirably varied 
 expressions, some of which it is 
 difficult to believe not to be portraits. 
 Chislett Church has been lately 
 restored. 
 
 [From Chislett it is possible to 
 visit the Roman station of Reculver, 
 distant about 5 m. N. It is, how- 
 ever more conveniently reached 
 from Herne Bay (Rte. 5).] 
 
 2 m. beyond Grove Ferry the rail 
 passes Sarre, where, before the 
 drying up of the Wantsume, was 
 the main ferry into the Isle of 
 Thanet. The Wantsume was the 
 name given to the sea passage 
 between Richborough and Reculver, 
 which cut off Thanet from the main- 
 land. At Sarre an Anglo-Saxon 
 cemetery exists, which has been 
 excavated at the cost of the Kent 
 Arch. Soc, and has yielded a large 
 number of Roman and Merovingian 
 coins, weapons, fibulae, &c. (figured 
 in Arch. Cant. vols. v. vi.) ; the 
 foundations of a ch. have also been 
 discovered. The wide-spreading 
 
ROUTE 4 . — SANDWICH. 
 
 161 
 
 marshes S. of the railway, through 
 which the Stour now flows, were 
 partly formed from the drying up of 
 this channel, along the ancient bed 
 of which, once ploughed by Roman 
 galleys and the i dragons ' of the 
 Northmen, the railway passes till it 
 reaches 
 
 8i| m. Minster Junction (Rte. 7), 
 where the line to Deal separates 
 from that to Ramsgate and Margate 
 (Rte. 7), and bends S., leaving on N. 
 the fine ch. of Minster. 
 
 In the marshes through which the 
 rly. passes after leaving Minster are 
 patches of a large reed-grass, used 
 for thatching and sometimes for 
 fences. The effect of the long 
 pointed leaf in masses, with its 
 graceful tassel of seed, is very 
 beautiful, and the breeze sweeps 
 through these Midas plots with a 
 most musical murmur. 
 
 After crossing the Stour by a 
 curious swing bridge, near the cliff 
 of Richborough (post), the wall of 
 which is just visible (rt.) as the 
 traveller flies over the ground from 
 which the Rutupian oysters were 
 once collected for the delight of the 
 discriminating gourmands of Rome, 
 we reach 
 
 86% m - SANDWICH (Stat.)* 
 (Pop. 2,796), one of the earliest and 
 most important English harbours. 
 Is now distant nearly 2 m. from the 
 sea, and its name was long a bye- 
 word for a place in the last stage of 
 decay ; but it is now reviving (under 
 the influence of the rly., and of the 
 St. George's Golf Club which was es- 
 tablished here in 1886) in a manner 
 that renders former descriptions ob- 
 solete; losing some of itspicturesque- 
 ness, no doubt, but becoming 
 instead more like a modern than a 
 mediaeval town. 
 
 The name ' Sandwich ' (the village 
 on the sands) first occurs in Eddius's 
 4 Life of Wilfrid/ who landed here 
 after preaching among the Frisians 
 about the year 665. The town 
 gradually rose as the old harbour of 
 Rutupiaa became unavailable. The 
 
 Danes frequently landed here. 
 Ethelred's fleet was collected at 
 Sandwich to oppose them ; and 
 about 1014 it became the most im- 
 portant English harbour — ' omnium 
 Anglorum portuum famosissimus.' 
 — {Encomium Emmce.) The port was 
 given by Canute to the monastery 
 of Christ Church, Canterbury, but 
 was afterwards exchanged by the 
 monks for other lands. The borough 
 however still remained their pro- 
 perty, and contributed 40,000 her- 
 rings 4 ad victum/ beside clothing 
 them. Sandwich is the most ancient 
 of the Cinque Ports — probably suc- 
 ceeding to the position of the 
 Roman Rutupiae ; and all ports and 
 creeks on the Kentish coast are (or 
 were) members of it. (See Rte. 2 
 for a general notice of the Cinque 
 Ports.) Becket escaped hence, hav- 
 ing remained concealed for some 
 days at Eastry (post), after the 
 famous scene at Northampton ; and 
 landed here on his return in Dec. 
 1 1 70, when he was conducted in 
 triumph to Canterbury, the people 
 singing 1 Benedictus qui venit in 
 nomine Domini/ the hymn with 
 which Charlemagne had been re- 
 ceived in Rome as the deliverer of 
 the Church from the Lombards. 
 Coeur de Lion, on landing here from 
 Antwerp after his Austrian im- 
 prisonment, proceeded barefoot to 
 Canterbury to return thanks for his 
 deliverance to God and to St. Thomas. 
 In 12 16 the town was burnt by the 
 French. Edward III. usually sailed 
 from here for France and Flanders ; 
 and it was here that he landed after 
 the surrender of Calais. In 1446 
 the recorders of the travels of the 
 Bohemian Ambassador, Leo von 
 Rotzmital, describe Sandwich as 
 we might speak of Liverpool or 
 Portsmouth — the resort of ships 
 from all quarters — vessels cf every 
 size — in which the agility of the 
 sailors in running up and down the 
 masts called forth their especial 
 admiration. It was the custom, 
 they say, for bands of musicians to 
 walk through the streets all night 
 
1G2 
 
 ROUTE 4. — SANDWICH. 
 
 long, proclaiming, at intervals, the 
 direction of the wind. Ten years 
 later — in 1456 — the town was burnt, 
 and nearly all the inhabitants killed, 
 by the Marshal de Breze. It 
 speedily recovered ; and the customs 
 of Sandwich, temp. Edw. IV., 
 yielded annually 17,000?. At this 
 time it had 95 ships belonging to it, 
 and 1500 sailors. The haven began 
 to be difficult of access about 1500. 
 A large ship belonging to Pope 
 Paul IV., sunk at the mouth of the 
 harbour, hastened its destruction ; 
 and, although in 1558 'a cunning 
 and expert man in waterworks ' was 
 sent for from Flanders to amend it, 
 it was quite closed in another cen- 
 tury. The town, however, had 
 derived fresh importance from the 
 great number of French and Flemish 
 exiles who settled here in conse- 
 quence of Alva's tyrannies. They 
 were principally baize-workers and 
 gardeners — and the first market- 
 gardens ever seen in England were 
 formed by these 1 gentle and profit- 
 able strangers/ as Abp. Parker 
 called them, in the neighbourhood 
 of Sandwich. Their descendants are 
 still numerous, as is evidenced by 
 the many foreign names to be met 
 with ; horticulture keeps its ground, 
 though manufactures have dis- 
 appeared ; and the Flemish name of 
 4 polders ' is borne by the reclaimed 
 marshes W. of the town. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth visited Sandwich 
 1572, when the streets were hung 
 with garlands of vine-leaves, and 
 Flemish and English children were 
 placed spinning yarn on platforms. 
 Her Majesty was 'very merrie,' and 
 gave commendation to the orations 
 and verses, especially to 'a golden 
 cup of C. lib,' the most eloquent of 
 all. Six years later ' a most fierce 
 and terrible earthquake ' is recorded, 
 which lasted 1 a paternoster while/ 
 It shook the churches, but i did 
 little harme.' 
 
 Sandwich has given the title of 
 Earl to the Montague family since 
 1660— in honour of one of whom 
 (George III.'s minister) its name 
 
 was transferred to the South Sea 
 group of islands, on their discovery 
 by Capt. Cook in 1769. The ancient 
 Customed of Sandwich, first written 
 in 1 30 1, but probably of much earlier 
 date, will be found in Boys' Hist, of 
 Sandwich, and is of great interest. 
 From it it appears that in the 
 Guestling, which falls into the Stour 
 above the town, female criminals 
 were drowned, and that adjoining 
 it were the Thief Downs (dunes?), 
 where others were buried alive : an 
 ancient German fashion, much in 
 favour with Tacitus and Mr. Carlyle. 
 The tract below the town is still 
 called the Haven ; and through it 
 the Stour winds so greatly that its 
 course is nearly 4 m. in length 
 before reaching the sea. Vessels of 
 200 tons still come up to the bridge, 
 and a considerable number of small 
 craft are built here. 
 
 The town is rectangular, and 
 built on a flat elevated about 15 ft. 
 above the rest of the plain. The 
 walls toward the river, W., were of 
 stone, the others of earth. Their 
 site is now occupied by a well-kept 
 public walk, affording a good view 
 of the town ; which, with its garden 
 spaces and drying fields, recalls the 
 views of old Flemish cities illus- 
 trating Guicciardini's folio. There 
 were five gates : namely, Canterbury 
 Gate, Woodnesborough Gate, San- 
 down Gate, New Gate, Fisher Gate ; 
 of which the only ancient one re- 
 maining is the Fisher Gate, 
 towards the haven. Just above is 
 the Barbican, a Tudor structure, 
 through which the town is entered 
 from Ramsgate. On the S. side of 
 the town was the Castle, now quite 
 gone. It was held (1471) against 
 Edward IV. by the Bastard Falcon- 
 bridge and his followers ; and was 
 at length surrendered, together with 
 13 ships, on promise of full pardon. 
 Here the channel formerly opened 
 to the sea. At the S.W. angle of 
 the walls was a monastery of 
 Carmelites, founded temp. Edw. I. 
 by Lord Clinton. The church was 
 very fine, and in it were buried the 
 
ROUTE 4. — SANDWICH : CHURCHES. 
 
 1G3 
 
 principal inhabitants of Sandwich. 
 On the Dissolution it was granted to 
 Arden of Faversham, towards whose 
 cairn it perhaps contributed an 
 additional stone, and at last was 
 entirely destroyed. 
 
 The principal church in Sandwich 
 is St. Clement's, the low Norm, 
 tower of which, with an exterior 
 arcade, is seen from the station. 
 The nave and chancel are E.E. 
 The tower is central, and has an 
 interior arcade above the supporting 
 arches. There is a Miserere stall in 
 the chancel. The aisles, N. and S., 
 are terminated by chantries ; in 
 that N. is the font (temp. Hen. VII.), 
 with arms of England and France, 
 and some merchants' marks. The 
 roof — Tudor with gilt angels at the 
 bosses — and the tower have been 
 restored. Brass, a merchant, circ. 
 1490. The most conspicuous object 
 in the ch. is the mayor's seat, with 
 the royal arms above it. The pulpit 
 is at the W. end. The Flemish 
 residents were formerly allowed to 
 have their services in this ch., which 
 well deserves a visit. Urns and 
 other articles have been found in 
 the churchyard, probably marking 
 it as the site of a cemetery attached 
 to the neighbouring Roman town of 
 Rutupiae. Examples of Christian 
 churches thus founded on or near 
 the earlier heathen cemeteries are 
 not uncommon in Kent. In this 
 church, the election of Mayor was 
 held, up to the reign of Charles II. 
 Every male inhabitant of full age 
 was summoned here by the blowing 
 of a horn. 
 
 In the centre of the town is St. 
 Peter's Church, with a strange- 
 looking tower, built of bricks made 
 from the mud of the harbour, when 
 the ancient steeple fell in 1661 and 
 demolished the S. aisle. The rest of 
 the ch. (originally Norm., E. E., and 
 Dec.) was hideously remodelled, but 
 since 1867 the work of restoration 
 has been carried on in good taste. 
 There were several fine monuments 
 (long hidden by pews), of which the 
 
 most important is one in the N. aisle, 
 for Thomas Ellis, merchant, and his 
 wife, about 1392 ; — a great bene- 
 factor to the town, who founded a 
 chantry in this ch. for himself, his 
 wife, and 23 children. The 4 curfew ' 
 is rung here at 8 p.m. 
 
 Near the W. end of the town stands 
 St. Mary's Church, occupying the 
 site of one raised by the Kentish 
 Egbert in expiation of the murder 
 of his nephews. (Rte. 7.) The pre- 
 sent ch., which replaced one burnt 
 by the French in 1456, was once 
 handsome ; it was almost ruined by 
 the fall of its spire in 1667, and long 
 remained in a deplorable condition, 
 but a restoration was completed in 
 1874. 
 
 Nearly opposite St. Peter's for- 
 merly stood St. Thomas's Hos- 
 pital, founded by Thomas Ellis in 
 honour of his patron saint, Becket. 
 It had an ancient dining-hall with 
 an early Perp. window. The hospital 
 was rebuilt on a site outside the 
 town in 1864. In the Corn-market 
 is the Hospital of St. John, 
 founded before 1280. Behind it 
 was a building called the ' Har- 
 binge,' in which travellers were 
 entertained. The Brothers of St. 
 John used to beg in the churches, 
 and at the harbour in the herring 
 season. 
 
 At the S.E. end of the town, 
 nearly opposite the rly. stat., and 
 faced by a line of poplars that serves 
 for a sea-mark, is the well- endowed 
 hospital of St. Bartholomew, the 
 great patron of lepers. It consists 
 of some neat small houses rebuilt in 
 1869. Its foundation probably goes 
 back to the' 12th cent. An estate of 
 nearly 300 acres adjoins this hos- 
 pital, which supports 16 brethren 
 and sisters. It was probably at first 
 a lazar-house, but afterwards (like 
 Harbledown near Canterbury) re- 
 ceived pilgrims and travellers. The 
 knightly family of Sandwich were 
 great benefactors to it ; and in its 
 chapel is the altar-tomb, with effigy. 
 
164 ROUTE 4. — SANDWICH — RICHBOROUGH. 
 
 of Sir Henry de Sandwich, probably 
 a cenotaph, for the ground has been 
 searched in vain for any deposit. 
 This chapel (well restored in 1870), 
 is E.E., and interesting ; and from 
 a tombstone therein we learn that a 
 free school was formerly attached 
 to it. On St. Bartholomew's day 
 there is a distribution of 500 buns. 
 
 At the opposite end of the town, 
 near the site of the Canterbury gate, 
 is the Grammar School, at present 
 in abeyance, founded 1564 by Sir 
 Roger Manwood (ante). His father 
 was a draper of Sandwich, i a goodly 
 and pleasant gentleman/ Sir Roger 
 was born here in 1525. The rules 
 for the government of the school 
 are curiously minute. The books to 
 be used are the 'diallogsof Castilio,' 
 i thexercises of Apthomius/ 4 Vir- 
 gills Eglogs or some chaste poet,' 
 k Tully, Cesar, and Livie.' The seal 
 exhibits a grave personage in a 
 recess, with flames for hair, sur- 
 rounded by bees, and young ideas in 
 trunk hose. The building is Flemish 
 in character, with crowstepped 
 gables, and the date 1564 in enor- 
 mous iron figures in front ; it is now 
 used for an infant school, &c, the 
 Grammar School having been re- 
 moved further into the town. 
 Richard Knolles, who in his History 
 of the Turks (first printed 161 o) dis- 
 played in Johnson's opinion ' all 
 the excellences that narration can 
 admit, 5 was placed here by Sir Roger 
 himself as the third master, and 
 wrote his History here. 
 
 Some architectural fragments still 
 remain in the town which deserve 
 attention. 'The wood-carving on 
 a house in Strand Street may be 
 especially pointed out ; and another 
 ancient house in the same street, 
 said to have been occupied by Queen 
 Elizabeth when she visited this town 
 in 1572, contains a room of that 
 period, with an extraordinarily fine 
 carved chimney-piece. In a house 
 in Lucksboat Street, there are 22 panels 
 in oak, with very spirited carvings 
 of grotesque heads, supposed to be of 
 
 the time of Henry VIII.— (Wright) 
 Portions of ancient flintwork may 
 also be observed. The old town 
 walls have been levelled and make 
 a pleasant promenade. The Links 
 of the St. George's Golf Club 
 are regarded as amongst the best 
 in the British Islands, and have 
 proved an attraction for the 
 visitor superior to any which Sand- 
 wich has previously been able to 
 offer. The Club House is on the sand- 
 hills, about I mile S.E. of the town. 
 
 Sandwich was the residence of 
 W. H. Rolfe, Esq., whose very im- 
 portant museum, the result of exca- 
 vations made in the Roman and 
 Saxon cemeteries in the neighbour- 
 hood of Sandwich, and especially at 
 Osengal, near Ramsgate (Rte. j\ 
 passed after his death into the hands 
 of Joseph Mayer, Esq., of Liverpool, 
 who also possesses the very valuable 
 collections made by the Rev. Bryan 
 Faussett, of Heppington. The 
 greater part of the objects in both 
 collections have been described and 
 illustrated by Mr. C. R. Smith, 
 either in special works or in the 
 several volumes of his Collectanea 
 Antiqua. Stonar, on the- N. side of 
 the Stour, was once a place of large 
 size — possibly the Lapis Tituli of 
 Roman times. 
 
 *RlCHBOItOUGH, the ancient 
 Rutupiae, and perhaps the most 
 striking relic of old Rome existing 
 in Britain, lies about 1 m. N. of 
 Sandwich. It is, however, 2 m. 
 from the stat., and may be quite as 
 readily reached by walking or 
 driving from Minster, and crossing 
 the ferry by the Stonar cut, on the 
 high road, a route which affords the 
 best view of the noble N. wall. 
 
 Much that has been ascertained 
 respecting Rutupiae will be found in 
 Mr. Roach Smith's excellont Anti- 
 quities of Richborough, Reculver, and 
 Lymne. (J. R. Smith, 1850). For an 
 account of more recent excavations, 
 see papers in Airhwologia Cantiana, 
 vol. viii. and vol. xviii. The latter 
 gives the results of the excavations 
 
ROUTE 4. RICHBOROUGH. 
 
 165 
 
 carried out in 1888-89. Rutupiae was 
 the favourite Roman landing-place 
 (statio iranquilla it is called by 
 Ammian.j in crossing from the 
 opposite coast of Boulogne (BononiaV 
 Hence the whole district of the 
 Kentish coast opposite to Thanet, 
 i. e. from Reculver down to Sand- 
 wich, became known as the 4 Littus 
 Rutupinum ' — a word to which un- 
 travelled Roman ears suggested the 
 delicate 4 natives/ akin to the Whit- 
 stable and Margate oysters of our 
 own day, whose birthplace was at 
 once recognised by learned gas- 
 tronomers, such as the Montanus of 
 Juvenal — 4 Circeis nata forent an 
 Lucrinum ad saxum, Rutupinove 
 edita fundo Ostrea, callebat primo 
 deprendere morsu.' (Juv. Sat. iv. 
 139.) The name first occurs in 
 Lucan's Pharsalia (a.d. 39 65) — 
 4 vaga cum Tethys Rutupinaque 
 littora fervent ' — in allusion to the 
 fierce storms which then, as now, 
 swept along the Kentish coast, and 
 for the last time in the Notitia 
 (a. d. 400-50), where the Legio 
 Secunda Augusta is said to have 
 been removed here from Chester. 
 Between these periods it is men- 
 tioned by Ammianus Marcellinus, 
 who says that Lupicinus landed 
 here temp. Julian, to repel the Picts 
 and Scots, and that Theodosius 
 entered Britain by the same route 
 to expel the Saxons. Ausonius 
 three times refers to it, once as the 
 burial-place of one of his uncles — 
 4 Contentum, tellus quern Rutupina 
 tegit ' — and gives the name of 
 * Rutupine robber/ 4 Rutupinus 
 latro,' to Maximus, whom the 
 legions in Britain (a.d. 383) had 
 invested with the supreme command. 
 In the Itineraries, and by the geo- 
 grapher of Ravenna, Rutupiae is 
 duly recorded. Until the northern 
 barbarians began to infest the 
 4 Saxon shore/ we hear but little of 
 Rutupiae. After this period, when, 
 on account of their incursions, the 
 legions in Britain had been collected 
 in the stations along the great wall, 
 and in the fortresses of the S. and E. 
 
 coasts of Britain, the Rutupine 
 coast must have been the scene of 
 many important events, of which 
 the details have unfortunately been 
 lost to us. The epithet of Ausonius 
 indicates how closely the career of 
 Maximus had been connected with 
 it ; and at a later period the fleet of 
 Carausius, the 4 Archipirata ' (a.d. 
 287-293), must have been well 
 acquainted with its harbour. Coins 
 of both 4 usurpers ' have been found 
 at Richborough ; and the camp gate 
 on the reverse of those of Maximus 
 perhaps alludes to the great fortified 
 castra, such as Richborough, Re- 
 culver, and Lymne, erected along 
 the coast to repel the barbarians. 
 Rutupiae was held by the famous 
 second legion, whose 4 Capricorn ' so 
 often occurs at Chester and in 
 Northumberland, and the 4 Vir 
 spectabilis/ the Count of the Saxon 
 Shore, reckoned it under his 4 dis- 
 position/ together with the other 
 fortresses of his district. 
 
 It has been found impossible to 
 assign a date for the foundation of 
 the Castellum. The fact that coins 
 of the reign of Domitian have been 
 found here may point to a very early 
 occupation. It has been suggested 
 (Quarterly Review, vol. xcvii.) that the 
 remains we now see may be indebted 
 to Stilicho (a.d. 323-408) for some 
 portion of their long-enduring 
 massiveness. Claudian's lines will 
 thus be read with interest on the 
 spot. 
 
 1 Me quoque vicinis pereuntem gentibus, 
 
 inquit (i. e. Brit.) 
 Munivit Stilicho, totam cum Scotus Iernen 
 Movit, et inf esto spumavit remige Tethys. — 
 Illius effectum curis ne tela timerem 
 Scotica, ne Pictum tremerem, neulitore toto 
 Prosp&cerem dubiis vcnturum Saxona 
 
 ventis.' 
 
 Thus prepared to be called back 
 into the world of Roman Britain, we 
 may find our way to Richborough 
 along the Canterbury road, from 
 which we turn off by a path skirting 
 the Stour, and marked by some wind- 
 mills. The walls are in view the 
 whole way (they are visible from the 
 quay at Sandwich), and on the 
 
166 ROUTE 4. RICHBOROUGH : THE CASTLE. 
 
 highest point of the hill on the 1. 
 was the ancient amphitheatre. To 
 this a road probably ran from the 
 ' castle/ the direction of which 
 may be indicated by a track running 
 across the fields into the main road. 
 The excavations have not gone suffi- 
 ciently far to disclose to us what 
 occupied the intervening space. At 
 the commencement of the cliff the 
 road divides, and the pedestrian can 
 either proceed by the side of the rly. 
 between the cliff and the river, or 
 he can ascend the cliff and enter the 
 ' castle' at the S.E. corner. The 
 first is perhaps the most im- 
 pressive approach, opening at once 
 on the great N. wall, the best pre- 
 served portion of the structure. This 
 is about 460 ft. in length, 30 ft. high 
 on the exterior in some places, and 
 in others 20 ft. thickly covered with 
 ivy. The masses of ruin passed in 
 ascending to it from the river are 
 those of a return wall now quite 
 overthrown, and of a tower and but- 
 tress, near the angle of the cliff. At 
 the opposite N.W. angle are the re- 
 mains of a circular tower ; and there 
 were originally two square towers 
 on this side of the ca strum, nearly 
 equidistant from the circular corner 
 towers, and from a postern in the 
 centre. (The general character of 
 the square towers will perhaps be 
 best seen in the W. wall, where one 
 remains in better preservation.) The 
 great wall at the postern is 10 ft. 
 8 in. thick ; the entrance wall 6 ft. 4. 
 In the W. wall is the principal open- 
 ing where a complete stone pave- 
 ment, long since removed, was laid 
 open towards the middle of last cent., 
 by Boys, the historian of Sandwich : 
 beyond it, S., are the remains of a 
 square tower. These square towers, 
 throughout the fortress, were ' solid 
 to the extent of nearly 8 ft. from 
 the foundation, hollow in the centre, 
 and united to the main wall again 
 at the top. It is probable that they 
 contained a room, with loopholes 
 for watchers. The holes in the main 
 wall, within these towers, seem to 
 have served for the insertion of 
 
 timber.'— a B. Smith. At the S.W. 
 corner of the W. wall was a circular 
 tower, of which only the foundation 
 (laid open in 1849, but again covered 
 up) remains ; the S. wall has a 
 square tower toward the centre. On 
 the river side the cliff seems to have 
 served as a protection. The external 
 facing is most perfect in the IS", wall, 
 and is formed of regular courses of 
 squared grit and Portland stone, 
 bonded at irregular intervals by 
 double rows of large flat tiles made 
 of well-tempered clay. These do not 
 extend into the wall beyond the 
 width of a single tile, or at most a 
 couple. Some half century or more 
 ago, a great raid was made on the 
 then remaining facing-stones by the 
 people of Sandwich, who being in 
 want of road material, determined 
 to levy a contribution on the ruins 
 of Richborough. At the postern 
 gate the courses are relieved at the 
 angles by short intermediate courses 
 of red and yellow tiles. Internally, 
 the facing was chiefly composed of 
 flints. It has been much destroyed ; 
 but a tolerably good fragment re- 
 mains near the N.W. corner. The 
 great body of the wall consists of 
 layers of boulders, sandstone, &c., 
 arranged with much precision, and 
 cemented with mortar formed of lime, 
 grit, sea-shells, and pounded tiles. 
 
 Within the area, not far from the 
 N.E. corner, a ridge in the form of a 
 cross will be observed, rising slightly 
 above the ground. This is the mark 
 of a superstructure which has en- 
 tirely disappeared, and which was 
 based on a solid rectangular platform 
 of masonry, underground, 1 44 ft. long, 
 104 ft. wide, and of unknown thick- 
 ness. It was long supposed that a 
 building existed underneath ; and 
 many attempts to penetrate it have 
 been made without success ; but the 
 excavations of the Kent Arch. Soc. 
 in 1864 have all but conclusively 
 proved that it is nothing more than an 
 unusually solid foundation, probably 
 for a pharos. ' Nothing at all analo- 
 gous to it has been discovered at any 
 of the Roman stations in this country, 
 
ROUTE 4. RICHBOROUGH: THE CASTLE. 167 
 
 or, as far as can be ascertained, on 
 the Continent.' The cross above, 
 which overlaps the platform, is of 
 later date, and may have been the 
 foundation of a sacellum or chapel. 
 It was long called ' St. Augustine's 
 Cross/ possibly from some tradition 
 of the reception of Augustine here 
 by King Ethelbert. 
 
 Alongand somewhat irregular sub- 
 terranean passage was discovered 
 in 1866. The key of the entrance near 
 the centre of the fortress, and 
 candles to aid in the exploration of 
 it, may be obtained at the cottage 
 below the cliff. It must be carefully 
 remembered that Rutupiae was not 
 a large walled city like Durovernum 
 (Canterbury) or London, but only a 
 strong frontier fortress. It is impos- 
 sible to determine the ancient ar- 
 rangement of buildings within the 
 walls. Fragments of pillars and 
 cornices, in a fine white marble, 
 and of mural painting, have been 
 found ; and the whole ground within 
 and around is still strewed with 
 pieces of tiles and broken pottery. 
 There were probably numerous 
 villas without the walls ; the foun- 
 dations of one of which were laid 
 bare in cutting the rly. below the 
 cliff. For engravings and notices of 
 the more important discoveries the 
 reader must be referred to Smith's 
 Antiquities already noticed. The 
 greater portion of articles there 
 figured were then in Mr. Rolfe's 
 cabinet at Sandwich. It has been 
 calculated that not less than 140,000 
 coins have been found at Rich- 
 borough at different periods. Of those 
 described by Mr. Smith, the greater 
 number belong to the 10 years 
 (287-97) during which the island 
 maintained its independence under 
 Carausius and Allectus, — when Ru- 
 tupiae was no doubt a place of great 
 importance and much frequented ' . 
 
 1 For an account of the latest researches at 
 Richborough, see the Arcliceologia Cantiana, 
 vol. xviii. It appears from the papers therein 
 published that during the years 1887-1889 ex- 
 cavations were made on the N. and W. sides of 
 the fortress, and on the road from the fort- 
 ress to the amphitheatre. These excavations 
 
 On the highest point of the hill, 
 about 460 yards from the S.W. angle 
 of the castrum, are the remains of 
 a castrensian amphitheatre, now 
 covered with earth, but laid com- 
 pletely open by Mr. Rolfe in 1849. It 
 was walled, and formed an ellipse, 
 the longer diameter measuring 200 
 ft., the shorter 166. There were three 
 entrances, N., S., and W. On the 
 ruined wall of the W. entrance a 
 skeleton was found, with a brass coin 
 of Constantine under the right hand. 
 Standing here, where athletes and 
 gladiators once delighted the shout- 
 ing soldiers, the imagination, in 
 spite of the ploughs lying quietly 
 under the hollows of the broken 
 walls, or of the wheat-field that 
 closes up round them, may restore 
 the fortress, see the glittering helmets 
 and eagles of the legionaries sweep 
 out from its gates, or look down upon 
 the tall triremes at rest in the har- 
 bour below. Regulbium (Reculver), 
 the sister castle, is within sight, and 
 far over the sea are the hazy cliffs of 
 Gessoriacum (Boulogne). The site 
 is still, as Leland describes it, ' won- 
 derful fair,' but must have been 
 far more so when the sea swept up 
 on one side toward Sandwich, and 
 on the other toward Reculver ; thus 
 leaving Rutupiae at the point of the 
 promontory, still indicated by its 
 high ground and cliff. 
 
 Beside Roman relics, ranging 
 over the whole 400 years of their 
 occupation, Saxon coins and per- 
 sonal ornaments, clasps and fibulae, 
 have been found at Richborough, 
 indicating the continued occupation 
 of the place by the new conquerors. 
 There was a chapel and hermitage 
 
 brought to light many interesting relics — 
 among them a hollow bronze figure of a 
 thumb, supposed to be a votive offering ; a 
 large number of coins dating from a.d. 69 to 
 a. d. 378 ; and many remains of pottery. 
 Traces of the storage of corn and burnt cord- 
 age, near the edge of the cliff, gave reason to 
 believe that N. of the fortress ttie ground had 
 been occupied by granaries, which had been 
 destroyed by fire. There were traces of ex- 
 tensive occupation to the S. of the wall of the 
 fortress {Arch. Cant. pp. 8-13^. The excava- 
 tions have ceased for want of funds. 
 
168 
 
 ROUTE 4.— WINGHAM — ASH. 
 
 within the walls in Leland's time, 
 now quite gone. This chapel, dedi- 
 cated to St. Augustine, was perhaps 
 a more direct memorial than the 
 name of i St. Augustine's Cross/ of 
 a possible reception of the Roman 
 missionaries here by Ethelbert after 
 the meeting in the Isle of Thanet. 
 From Richborough they advanced 
 to Canterbury along the line of the 
 Watling Street. (See Stanley's H.M., 
 p. 19.) Nearly opposite the Decu- 
 man gate of the castle is seen the 
 spire of Ash Church (2 m. W.), 
 which serves as a landmark. 
 
 The marshy meadows near Sand- 
 wich are still called the ' Polders ' a 
 name given by the Flemish settlers 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 [The road from Canterbury to 
 Sandwich (,13 m.) embraces some 
 features of interest. At 4 m. it 
 crosses the Stour at Littlebourne, 
 and leaves the park of Lee Priory 
 on rt. At 6} m., crossing an affluent 
 of the same stream, it reaches 
 Wingham, where is a large Dec. and 
 Perp. church which has been well 
 restored. The S. transept contains 
 an elaborate monument for the 
 Oxenden family of Deane (a mansion 
 demolished about 1840% a singular 
 structure, consisting of a pyramid 
 with despairing cherubs at the base. 
 In the ch. (on Sept. 29, 1360), 
 Elizabeth, daughter of the Marquis 
 of Juliers, and widow of John Plan- 
 tagenet, Earl of Kent, was married 
 to Sir Eustace Dabrieschescourt. 
 The lady had taken the vow of 
 4 chaste widowhood ' at Waverley, 
 and for this breach of her vows was 
 condemned daily to repeat the seven 
 penitential psalms and the fifteen 
 gradual s, once every year to visit 
 the shrine of St. Thomas at Can- 
 terbury, and once every week to 
 wear no ' camisia,' and to eat nothing 
 but bread and a mess of pottage. 
 This penance she endured for 51 
 years, or till her death in 141 1. Her 
 story was made the subject of an 
 indifferent paper in 1 The World/ 
 by Horace Walpole. Wingham was 
 
 once a market-town. Archbishop 
 Peckham founded here a college for 
 a provost and six canons, and a group 
 of four large timber buildings opposite 
 the ch. is still called the Canonries. 
 One of them (the Red Lion) is yet 
 in good order, and is worth a visit. 
 
 At 10m. we come to Ash, where the 
 Church is mainly E. E., with Perp. 
 tower and spire, and very fine. The 
 work of restoration has been gradu- 
 ally carried out, and several good 
 painted windows have been given 
 by the neighbouring gentry. There 
 are two altar-tombs and some brasses. 
 The effigy of an unknown knight 
 (temp. Edward II.) on one of the 
 altar-tombs is of great interest, 
 since it affords an example of 
 the gradual change from mail to 
 plate-armour. Instead of a mail 
 hauberk, several successive plates of 
 steel are riveted on a tunic of cloth 
 which reaches nearly to the knees. 
 The gauntlets are formed in the 
 same way ; and between them and 
 the elbows appear the sleeves of the 
 leather hauketon. The short surcoat 
 is also an early example. Meyrick 
 assigns the date 1320 to this effigy. 
 Brasses : fragments of those of R. 
 Clitherow, 1440, and wife ; Jane 
 Kerill, 1460; William Leus (?), 1525, 
 and wife ; and two of the Septvans 
 family, 1602 and 1642. Here, at 
 Ash, was one of the earliest Saxon 
 settlements. At Gilton in this 
 parish a Saxon cemetery was long 
 since discovered, from which per- 
 sonal ornaments, weapons, and other 
 relics of the highest interest, have 
 been, and are still, disinterred. 
 Many of these were in Mr. Rolfe's 
 cabinet. They are all of the pagan 
 Saxon period, indicating consider- 
 able artistic skill, and some imita- 
 tion of Rome. Douglas's Nenia 
 Briiannica (1793) first drew attention 
 to this spot. Mr. C. R. Smith has 
 pointed out (Arch. Cant vol. iii.) 
 that the situations of the early 
 Anglo-Saxon cemeteries, always in 
 rural districts, indicate that the 
 Roman population long remained 
 
ROUTE 4. — WOODNESBOROUGH— DEAL. 
 
 169 
 
 undisturbed in the towns, whilst the 
 Saxon chiefs, surrounded by their 
 dependants, established themselves 
 in the open country. (See Intro- 
 duction. ) 
 
 About 2 m. S. of Ash is Woodnes- 
 borough, on a height 'throwing 
 down various small streams N. 
 and S. into the Stour and the sea ' 
 (KemMe), and probably selected for 
 this reason as a sacred Saxon site. 
 There is here a remarkable earthen 
 mound, adjoining the ch. ; and 
 Saxon sepulchral remains have been 
 found in the neighbourhood. The 
 church contains a brass to John 
 Parker, Vicar, 1513, and others. 
 This was one of the last churches in 
 the county to submit to restoration. 
 
 Eastry (3 m. S. from Sandwich) 
 has a large E. E. Church with some 
 Norm, portions (restored and embel- 
 lished with much modern painted 
 glass). It belonged to Ch. Ch., Can- 
 terbury, and Becket lay concealed 
 here for some days before his flight. 
 An ancient helmet, belonging for- 
 merly to the family of Nevinson of the 
 Lynch in this parish, is preserved in 
 the chancel : and on one of the piers in 
 the S. aisle is an incised circle showing 
 how to find the Sunday Letter. The 
 murder of the Saxon princes, buried 
 under King Egbert's throne (see 
 Minster, Rte. 7), is placed here by 
 Matthew of Westminster, indicating 
 at least the traditional importance of 
 Eastry. Eastry is said to have been 
 a residence of King Ethelbert, his 
 ' palace ' being situated N. of the 
 church, on the site of the 17th 
 cent, house called Eastry Court. The 
 remains of the chapel may be seen 
 in the kitchen. There is a secret 
 chamber in the roof. The ' palace ' 
 was a favourite resort of Thomas a 
 Becket and of Henry of Eastry. ( See 
 Canterbury Cathedral. ) 
 
 i|m. S. of Eastry is Betshanger 
 (Betshanger Park, Lord North- 
 bourne). The Ch.j which stands with- 
 in the park, open every Thursday in 
 summer, has been rebuilt by Salvin ; 
 
 it is of mixed style, Norman — with a 
 door- way in imitation of Barfreston 
 (Rte. 3) — prevailing. Tilmanstone 
 (2 m. S.W.) is a small, but interesting 
 church, many remains of Norman 
 work : formerly in the possession of 
 the knights of St. John.] 
 
 From Sandwich the line proceeds 
 over the marshes (having the ch. of 
 Worth, Norm, and E. E., on W., and 
 a good view of the sea E.) to 
 
 90} Deal (Stat.) ; whence the 
 Dover and Deal Rly. runs to Dover 
 (Rte. 14) and to Kearsney (Rte. 3). 
 
 DEAL* (Pop. 8898) rose into im- 
 portance as a naval station as Sand- 
 wich declined ; there is conse- 
 quently nothing of any great anti- 
 quity in the lower town, adjoining 
 the sea, which is of much later date 
 than Upper Deal, on the hill above 
 the original village. The ch. of 
 Upper Deal has some Norm, frag- 
 ments, and a modern Dec. chancel. 
 That of Lower Deal, built 1726, is 
 a Georgian structure of the most 
 barbaric character. St. Andrew's 
 Church, in West Street, has a good 
 spire ; it was completed in 1850. 
 The ' General Baptists' Chapel ' is so 
 far a curiosity that it is said to have 
 been built by Samuel Tavernor, 
 governor of Deal Castle throughout 
 the period of the Commonwealth. 
 By Charles II. he was employed to 
 carry out the laws against Dissen- 
 ters, but was himself converted, 
 and baptized in the Delf at Sand- 
 wich, 1663. 
 
 The historical memorials of Deal 
 (passing by Caosar's landing for the 
 present) are scanty. Perkin War- 
 beck's forces landed here in 1495, 
 and were defeated by the men of 
 Sandwich : in 1540 Anne of Cleves 
 was received in the castle after her 
 voyage ; and it was at Deal that 
 Queen Adelaide first set her foot on 
 British ground. In Pennant's time 
 Deal was entirely supported by the 
 shipping in the Downs, and 1 every 
 shop was filled with punch-bowls and 
 drinking-glasses.' Its long narrow 
 
170 
 
 ROUTE 4. — DEAL: THE CASTLE. 
 
 streets are now better supplied, 
 and, together with the adjoining 
 village of Walmer, it has numerous 
 summer visitors, for whom an Es- 
 planade, Pier, and Baths, have been 
 provided. 
 
 Deal Castle (now occupied by 
 Lord Herschell, 6 captain ' of the 
 castle, appointed by the Lord War- 
 den) like the castles of Sandown and 
 Walmer, was one of the L platforms 
 and blockhouses' built along the 
 coast by Henry VIII. in 1539, 
 when it seemed probable that Eng- 
 land would have to stand single- 
 handed against a combination of 
 the great continental powers. The 
 king himself rode along the coast to 
 hasten their completion. They are 
 all alike, and consist of a central 
 keep or circular tower, surrounded 
 by four lunettes. Both at Deal 
 and at Walmer there are numer- 
 ous modern additions. Sandown 
 Castle, which formerly stood |m. N. 
 of Deal, had greater historic interest. 
 Here ' after eleven months' harsh 
 and strict imprisonment ' (only a 
 part of which, however, was passed 
 at Sandown), died, says his wife, 
 but incorrectly, as the State Papers 
 prove, Colonel Hutchinson, Septem- 
 ber 11, 1664, 'without crime or accu- 
 sation/ It was then a i lamentable 
 old ruined place, not weather-proof, 
 unwholesome and damp/ the sea in 
 front, and the dreary marshland to- 
 ward Sandwich stretching away be- 
 hind it. ' When no other recrea- 
 tions were left him he diverted him- 
 self with sorting and shadowing 
 cockle-shells, which his wife and 
 his daughter gathered for him, 
 with as much delight as he used to 
 take in the richest agates and onyxes 
 he could compass, with the most 
 artificial engravings/ — (Memoirs by 
 his Wife.) We may recall his grave 
 figure, such as it appears in the 
 w ell-known portrait, with long nil- 
 puritanical hair falling over his 
 shoulders, slowly pacing the beach, 
 where at last he obtained leave to 
 walk, and intermingling his dis- 
 
 course 1 of the public concernments ' 
 with sundry prophecies of the down- 
 fall of the Stuarts, and confusion of 
 the ' serpentine seed ' of the Cava- 
 liers. ' The place had killed him/ 
 certified the doctors. The convey- 
 ance in which the colonel was 
 brought to Sandown, his chair, and 
 a so-called portrait, were shown in 
 the castle. Mrs. Hutchinson was 
 not admitted permanently to the 
 castle, but had to remain in 'that 
 cut-throat town of Deal/ at an ex- 
 cessive charge, walking back there 
 at night ' with horrible toil and in- 
 convenience/ The sea is gaining on 
 the land at this part of the coast, 
 and the castle, which had long been 
 endangered, was pulled down in 
 1864. An Act has been passed for 
 forming a dock on its site, with a ship 
 canal to Sandwich, but no attempt 
 to carry it into effect has been made. 
 
 With the black shadow cast on 
 Deal by Mrs. Hutchinson must be 
 contrasted the reputation conferred 
 on the place by Mrs. Elizabeth 
 Carter, the translatress of Epictetus, 
 whose really profound Greek learn- 
 ing excited the admiration of Dr. 
 Johnson, — none the less because 
 ' she could make a pudding as well 
 as translate Epictetus, and work a 
 handkerchief as well as compose a 
 poem/ She was born (1717) and 
 lived here, passing throughout all 
 the neighbouring villages for a 
 1 cunning gentlewoman/ who ri- 
 valled Francis Moore in her powers 
 of foretelling future events. In her 
 house (now pulled down) was a por- 
 trait of the learned lady ' in the cos- 
 tume appropriated io Minerva/ 
 (Memoirs by Rev. T. Pennington.) 
 
 At the S. end of the town is a sig- 
 nal tower, on the summit of which 
 is a time-ball, for use of the ship- 
 ping, worked by electric telegraph 
 from Greenwich Observatory. It is 
 dropped at 1 p.m. daily. The Marine 
 Terrace Gardens (entrance in South 
 Street) are well laid out. Military 
 bands play here during the summer 
 season. 
 
ROUTE 4. WALMER CASTLE. 
 
 171 
 
 Beyond the castle commences the 
 village of Walmer, which, like 
 Deal, has its upper and lower towns. 
 Lower Walmer lies along the beach ; 
 and at the S. end has some very- 
 pleasant houses. As a quiet bath- 
 ing place, it is much preferable to 
 the larger towns on the coast (there 
 is no good hotel, however, nearer 
 than Deal). The naval hospital, 
 on the rt. after passing Deal Castle, 
 has accommodation for 250 patients, 
 but is now occupied as supplemen- 
 tary to the Barracks, beyond, 
 which were built in 1795, when the 
 coast seemed to demand some more 
 effective protection than Henry 
 VIII. 's 1 worm-eaten ' castles. Wal- 
 mer Castle, to which the visitor's 
 attention is first turned, the official 
 residence of the Great Duke as 
 Lord Warden, and the spot where 
 (Sept. 14, 1852) 1 tanti viri morta- 
 litas magis quam vita finita est,' 
 lies about 1 m. beyond the barracks. 
 The interior is only shown when 
 the castle is unoccupied. Lord 
 Dufferin, the present Lord Warden, 
 is the occupier of the castle. 
 
 Walmer, like Deal and Sandown, 
 is one of Henry VIII.'s block-houses, 
 but has been greatly altered, al- 
 though the original plan is still 
 traceable. It was early assigned to 
 the Lord Wardens of the Cinque 
 Ports as an official residence ; and 
 the Duke of Wellington, after suc- 
 ceeding Lord Liverpool as warden 
 in 1827, regularly spent the autumn 
 months here. The window of the 
 end turret, farthest from Deal, is 
 that of the room in which he died. 
 The original bed and chairs were 
 restored to this room by the present 
 Duke of Wellington in 1892 — and 
 other articles were made heirlooms 
 of the Lord Wardens by the gift of 
 Right Hon. W. H. Smith, who held 
 that office recently. The camp bed- 
 stead is of brass, with folding joints. 
 The easy chair, writing bureau, 
 book rest, chests of drawers, looking 
 glass, and other pieces of furniture 
 will all be examined with interest 
 as having been used by the ' Great 
 \Kenl.~] 
 
 Duke/ His despatches are in a 
 cabinet. Notice the portraits of 
 Prince Arthur (the Duke's godson) 
 and others : and the picture of 
 Strathfieldsaye, made of small bits of 
 wood. In the drawing-room are the 
 Pitt chairs. In the Queen's room 
 are the bed and sofa used by her 
 Majesty in 1842. In the dining 
 room are portraits of the successive 
 Lord Wardens. A telescope belong- 
 ing to the Right Hon. W. H. Smith 
 is also preserved. The sea views 
 from the windows of the principal 
 apartments, and from the platform 
 in front (on which are some small 
 cannon \ are very fine. On the 
 rampart in front the Duke took his 
 walk every morning at six. The 
 moat has been converted into a 
 kitchen garden ; and at the back 
 stretches up a long plantation of 
 beeches and sycamores, made by 
 Mr. Pitt, and showing evident signs 
 of battles with the sea winds. They 
 protect, however, some very fine 
 evergreens, including a laurestinus 
 of remarkable size, and laurels 
 worthy of the garden of a hero. 
 
 Within the Castle is also shown 
 a small room in which William Pitt, 
 then Lord Warden, is said to have 
 held frequent conferences with Lord 
 Nelson, whilst the lieet lay in the 
 Downs, watching the Boulogne 
 flotilla in 1801. The gardens were 
 planted first by Lady Hester Stan- 
 hope. The lime under which the 
 Duke used to sit and read, and the 
 willow, a slip from the tree at Napo- 
 leon' s Grave, are pointed out to the 
 visitor. 
 
 The old parish church, near the 
 station, is now closed : the hand- 
 some new church, of St. Mary, 
 above the Castle (designed by Blom- 
 field) was opened in 1888. The 
 station is on the higher ground, 
 behind upper Walmer. Near the 
 old church are the remains of the 
 mansion of the Criol family, erected, 
 according to popular tradition, in 
 the reign of Edward I. 
 
 [The country landward of Deal is 
 o 
 
172 
 
 ROUTE 5. — LONDON TO RAMSGATE. 
 
 comparatively bare and unpic- 
 turesque ; yet it is interesting as 
 having been (together with Thanet) 
 the first portion of Britain colonised 
 by the invading Saxons, of whose 
 early settlements it still contains 
 numerous traces. Beside burial- 
 grounds of the heathen period (as 
 Ash, Osengal, &c.)., some of the 
 churches are remarkably placed 
 within ancient intrenchments ( Wal- 
 mer, Coldred, &c.\ and others have 
 close adjoining them lofty earthen 
 mounds (Woodnesborough, Coldred), 
 possibly marking the sites of early 
 hundred courts. 
 
 Of the churches themselves the 
 most interesting in the neighbour- 
 hood of Deal are Great Mongeham, 
 Northbourne, and Shoulden. 
 
 Great Mongeham, 2 m. S.W. 
 from Deal, is Tr.-Norm. and E.E., 
 with a good Perp. tower, command- 
 ing a wide view over the country. 
 This ch. has been restored by But- 
 terfield. The piscina and sedilia 
 are worth notice. The old oak rood- 
 screen has been removed to the W. 
 end of the church. Great Monge- 
 ham (Monk-ham) belonged to St. 
 Augustine's, Canterbury. Some re- 
 mains of brick and flint walls near 
 the W. door of the ch. indicate the 
 site of an ancient mansion belonging 
 to the family of Crayford, whose 
 monuments still remain in the ch. 
 Mongeham was famous as a market 
 town : the Market Place still exists. 
 
 im. N.E. from Great Mongeham is 
 Northbourne, which the archaeo- 
 logist will find well worth a visit. 
 The ' bourne ' from which it derives 
 its name falls into the Stour near 
 Sandwich. The manor was granted 
 by Eadbald (618) to St. Augustine's, 
 by which monastery the ch. was of 
 course erected. This (dedicated to 
 St. Augustine) is cruciform, the 
 nave and tower Tr.-Norm., chancel 
 and transepts E. E. At the E. end 
 of the chancel are three lights, one 
 above another, the uppermost in the 
 roof, and circular. Within, the 
 lowest light is placed within a 
 
 recessed arch, having pilasters at 
 the angles. Above this arch is the 
 second light. The piscina is trian- 
 gular-headed. The tower arches are 
 circular — except that opening to the 
 nave, which is pointed, with a zigzag 
 moulding — and have a broad re- 
 versed trefoil on the capitals of the 
 lower pilasters. The windows are 
 trefoil-headed within, and broadly 
 splayed ; flush without. The door 
 of the S. porch, with tympanum and 
 zigzag moulding, has the mason's 
 mark on one of the stones. 
 
 In the S. transept (which is later, 
 and has a curious S. window) is the 
 tomb of Sir Edwin Sandys, second 
 son of the Abp. of York, and his wife 
 (1629'. Both are recumbent effigies 
 in white marble, and very good. 
 
 Northbourne Court lies below the ch. 
 It was at one time among the 
 greatest ornaments of this part of 
 Kent, and its gardens, carefully 
 tended by the monks, 6 rose into 
 divers terraces, which had been 
 laid up with great art and expense 
 for the cultivation of fruits and 
 vegetables.' The site is said to have 
 been that of a palace of King Ead^ 
 bald ; and in Leland's .time, ' yn 
 breking a side of walle yn the halle, 
 were found ii children's bones.' 
 The Court was for some time in the 
 hands of the Sandys family. It is 
 now a large farm : the barns and 
 outbuildings will repay examination. 
 
 Shoulden, 1 \ m. W. of Deal, has 
 a small plain ch. ; but the tower is 
 E. E. and deserving of notice. 
 
 ROUTE 5. 
 
 LONDON TO RAMSGATE, BY WHIT- 
 STABLE AND HERNE BAY. 
 
 {London, Chatham, and Dover Raihcay.) 
 79 m. 
 
 For the line to Faversham 
 Junct. see Ete. 3. The Kent Coast 
 line, now part of the L. C. D. K. 
 system, leaving the Blean on rt., 
 
ROUTE 5. — WHITSTABLE. 
 
 173 
 
 proceeds through the low ground ' 
 near the sea, commanding a good 
 view of the Swale and the E. end of 
 Sheppey. Goodnestone, probably 
 the smallest parish church in the 
 county, is passed on rt., and soon 
 after Graveney on 1., where is an 
 E. E. Church of some interest. The 
 proportions are unusually good. In 
 the S. aisle is the altar- tomb (Dec.) 
 'Roberti Dodde R. de Faversham 
 filii ' ; and in the N. aisle is the 
 large and very fine brass of Sir John 
 Martin, Chief Baron (d. 1436), and 
 wife. He wears his official robes, 
 with a coif. In his hands is a heart, 
 inscribed 'IHU., mcy.' The lady 
 wears the horned head-dress. The 
 outlines of the steep hills of the 
 Blean, which here stretch upward 
 from the salt marshes, are strik- 
 ing ; one eminence, called Petti- 
 coat Hill (1. of the line), is probably 
 artificial. The number of bones 
 found in the low hill through which 
 the succeeding cutting is made, ap- 
 pears to mark it as an ancient ceme- 
 tery. The sea is here gaining on 
 the land, and the ch. of Seasalter 
 (itself the substitute for a former 
 one, of which some traces remain 
 \ m. W.) has been abandoned in 
 favour of a new one in the street 
 of the town of Whitstable, a con- 
 siderable part of which is within 
 the parish of Seasalter. The name 
 Seasalter is said to be derived from 
 a Danish word signifying division or 
 district. 
 
 58^ m. Whitstable (Stat.). 
 
 WHITSTABLE, formerly a 
 mere straggling village, is now, 
 under the influence of the lailway, 
 a rising town (Pop. 6432), with 
 many new houses. The Ch., Perp., 
 with embattled tower, which stands 
 \ m. inland, has been partially re- 
 stored. Off Whitstable the tide 
 leaves dry for f m. an ancient cause- 
 way, called the 4 Street,' popularly 
 supposed to represent part of a 
 former town submerged by the sea, 
 and whence Roman bricks are often 
 brought up by the net. 
 
 Some of the largest English 
 oyster-beds lie off this coast, and the 
 scene, when the white-sailed fleet 
 of dredging-boats is fluttering and 
 tacking across them, is full of ani- 
 mation. The 4 Mid-Channel' oysters, 
 from a great natural bed which 
 stretches for 40 m. between the ports 
 of Shoreham and Havre — discovered 
 only a few years since — have some- 
 what disturbed the old trade ; but 
 the 'real natives are greater aristo- 
 crats among their fellows than ever, , 
 so much higher is their gout and 
 delicacy. These are regularly ' culti- 
 vated ' by different companies. At 
 Whitstable, Sheerness, and other 
 points along the mouth of the 
 Thames, the flow of fresh water from 
 the Thames and Medway is said to 
 benefit the young beds greatly. The 
 ' spat ' or young brood is frequently 
 brought from a great distance, 
 and 4 laid ' in the bed, where they 
 remain for three years before they 
 are brought to market. There are 
 at least nine oyster companies, beside 
 many individuals who possess and 
 work their own 'sea farms,' some- 
 times miles in extent. Of these was 
 the late Mr. Alston, ' without doubt 
 the largest oyster-fisher in the world, 
 who in a single year has sent to 
 London more than 50,000 bushels 
 from his fisheiy at Cheyney Rock, 
 near Sheerness.' — {Quart. Rev. vol, 
 xcv.) 
 
 The Dutch were formerly among 
 the largest purchasers from these 
 fisheries, so that the admirer of the 
 oysters and lemons in some Gerard 
 Douw or Ostade may please himself 
 with the notion that he has before 
 him the portraits of ancient Thames 
 natives, themselves the descendants 
 of those venerable British oysters 
 which in the days of Juvenal found 
 their way to Nero's Golden House 
 and Domitian's Alban Villa. The 
 castellated (modern) mansion on 
 the hill above Whitstable is Tan- 
 kerton Tower (Newton Robinson, 
 Esq.), in the neighbourhood of 
 which a new town, destined in the 
 hopes of its promoters to rival Mar- 
 o 2 
 
174 
 
 ROUTE 5. — HERNE BAY RECULVER. 
 
 gate as a popular resort, is being 
 rapidly laid out. From Whitstable 
 a pleasant excursion may be made 
 by sailing boat round the Isle of 
 Sheppey. Time occupied must de- 
 pend on wind and weather : say 
 within 10 hours. 
 
 Keeping near the coast, the line 
 passes the embryo watering-place of 
 Hampton on Sea and reaches 
 
 62J m. Herne Bay (Stat.). 
 
 HEEWE BAY* was projected as 
 a watering-place about 1830. Ex- 
 tensive speculation in building, was 
 followed by failure : but the place 
 has entered on a new lease of life 
 since the advent of the rly. in 1862, 
 and is now a favourite, though quiet, 
 health resort. Coaches run to 
 Sturry and Canterbury daily from 
 the New Dolphin and Diver's 
 Arms Hotels. Heme and Reculver 
 are favourite excursions, and the 
 Blean woods afford pleasant rides 
 and drives. An iron pier has re- 
 placed the former wooden one. The 
 clock tower was erected by Mrs. 
 Thwaytes. The prominent church 
 at the W. end of of the town is R.C. 
 This, with Christ Church (parish 
 ch.), and the Congregational Church, 
 has been erected within recent years. 
 Population, 3,829. 
 
 The village of Heme is i| m. S. 
 The number of herons once to be 
 found on the coast probably gave 
 its name to this parish, and to that 
 ofHernhill, near Faversham. Heron 
 is pronounced Hern in the Kentish 
 dialect. The large church (E. E., 
 Dec. and Perp., well restored) contains 
 some fine Brasses : John Darley, vicar 
 1 Qui pater morum fuit, et flos philo- 
 sophorum,' says the inscription, the 
 date of which is lost — Peter Halle 
 and wife, ' a fine specimen of com- 
 plete plate armour ' (Boutell), 1420 — 
 Lady Fineaux, 1539 — Christiana 
 Philip, 1470. wife of the lord mayor 
 who led the London citizens to Bar- 
 net and was knighted on the field : 
 the hands are spread open, forming 
 a cross, and the unusual inscription 
 
 runs, 'Qui migravit ab hac valle 
 miserie.' In this ch. the 4 Te Deum' 
 is said to have been sung for the 
 first time in English, whilst Nicho- 
 las Ridley was its vicar. 4 Farewell, 
 Heme,' are the words in his ' last 
 farewell' — 'thou worshipful and 
 wealthy parish, the first cure where- 
 unto I was called to minister God's 
 word. Thou hast heard of my 
 mouth oft time the word of God 
 preached, not after the popish trade, 
 but after God's gospel. Oh that the 
 fruit had answered to the seed ! But 
 I bless God for all that godly virtue 
 and zeal of God's word which the 
 Lord by preaching of his word did 
 kindle manifestly both in the heart 
 and the life of that godly woman 
 there, my Lady Fiennes.' The brass 
 of Lady Fineaux, near the altar 
 (already noticed), probably com- 
 memorates the same person. Sir 
 Matthew Philip, Lord Mayor of 
 London, 1463 is buried here. The 
 font is a complete specimen of the 
 Perp. period. The Milles Chapel is 
 elaborately restored in memory of 
 the late Lord Sondes. 
 
 [The most interesting place to be 
 visited from Herne Bay is RECUL- 
 VER, which is more easily reached 
 from this than from any other 
 point. The distance is about 3 m. 
 Between Herne Bay and Reculver 
 numerous remains of the palaeolithic 
 age, in the shape of stone imple- 
 ments of \arious kinds have been 
 discovered from time to time. The 
 sea has made great inroads on this 
 coast, and the cliffs have been there- 
 by undermined. The fullest account 
 of the old fortress, and of the re- 
 mains discovered there, will be 
 found in Mr. C. K. Smith's Antiqui' 
 ties of Richborough, Reculver, and Lymne. 
 Reculver, the ancient 'Regulbium,' 
 was the sister fortress of Richborough 
 (Rutupise), and protected the 'Yen- 
 lade ' or north mouth of the Want- 
 sume, dividing Thanet from the 
 main land, just as Rutupiae did the 
 south. (See Richborough, Rte. 4.) 
 Both fortresses rose into importance, 
 
ROUTE 5. — reculver: the church. 
 
 175 
 
 and were probably increased in 
 strength, during the latter period of 
 Roman domination, when the 'Saxon 
 shore/ as this part of Kent was 
 called, was constantly liable to the 
 descents of northern rovers. There 
 was no Roman road from Regulbium; 
 and as it lay out of the direct line, 
 it is only mentioned in the Notitia 
 and the Antonine Itinerary, from 
 the first of which we learn that it 
 was then (a.d. 400-450) garrisoned 
 by the first cohort of the Vetasii — 
 Belgians from Brabant— under the 
 command of a tribune. 
 
 Reculver wants the impressive 
 dignity of Richborough, so much of 
 the walls having been either de- 
 stroyed or concealed by the soil. 
 The S. and E. walls are yet stand- 
 ing, but much shattered, and covered 
 with ivy, elder-bushes, briony, and 
 wild fig-trees which sometimes ripen 
 their fruit. The N. wall has been 
 entirely destroyed by the sea, and 
 much of the W. has been levelled. 
 When entire, the Castrum occupied 
 about 8 acres. There are no traces 
 of towers. The entrance was in the 
 centre of the W wall. The walls, 
 when perfect, with their facings, 
 were about 12 ft. thick. They are 
 built of flints and pebbles, inter- 
 mixed with layers of septaria— stones 
 found in the London clay, like flints 
 in chalk, and probably brought from 
 the Isle of Sheppey. There are no 
 tiles, such as occur largely at Rich- 
 borough, the absence of which is 
 very rare in the S. of England, al- 
 though usual in the N. 
 
 In Leland's time the sea was \ m. 
 distant from the Castrum. In 1780 
 it had advanced close under it, and 
 the N. wall was overthrown by a fall 
 of the cliff. It is still gaining on 
 the land, but the force of the waves 
 has been checked by an artificial 
 causeway of stones and large wooden 
 piles driven into the sands. The 
 average waste of the cliff between 
 the N. Foreland and Reculver, about 
 11 m, is 2 ft. per annum. (Sir C. 
 Lyett.) 
 
 The Saxon memories of Regul- 
 
 bium, then called Raculf Ceastre, 
 Reculver, are at least as interesting 
 as the Roman. Ethelbert, after his 
 baptism, retired here, having built 
 a palace out of the remains of the 
 fortress. His former palace in Can- 
 terbury, with a ch. or basilica ad- 
 joining, he gave up to Augustine as 
 the foundation of the new cathedral. 
 1 This wild spot is the scene which 
 most closely connects itself with the 
 remembrance of that good Saxon 
 king,' who was traditionally said to 
 have been buried here. The * strong- 
 masonry of the Roman walls, which 
 he must have seen and handled/ 
 at all events remains ; and on a 
 board affixed to the wall of the ch. 
 was to be read, until very lately, the 
 inscription, i Here lies Ethelbert, 
 Kentish King whilome/ (He was 
 in fact buried in St. Augustine's, 
 Canterbury.) In 669 King Egbert 
 gave Reculver to ' Bassa, a mass 
 priest, to build a minster ' ; and in 
 949 Eadred gave the monastery so 
 built, ' cum tota villa,' to Ch. Ch., 
 Canterbury. The original charter, 
 in the handwriting of Dunstan, 
 1 propriis digitorum articulis/ is 
 still preserved and may be seen in 
 the cathedral library. The manor 
 still belongs to the archbishops. 
 Abp. Berchtuald (d. 731), the suc- 
 cessor of Theodore of Tarsus, 'the 
 philosopher/ and the first native 
 Saxon who ruled the see under his 
 own name, was Abbot of Reculver. 
 Deusdedit (d. 664) was the only 
 Saxon archbishop before him. 
 
 The Church of Reculver, which 
 stood within the Castrum, ' a monu- 
 ment of the downfall of paganism 
 and the triumph of Christianity/ 
 was barbarously pulled down in 
 1809. The vicarage-house, adjoin- 
 ing, was converted into a public- 
 house. The church contained some 
 portions of the chancel and nave of 
 a Roman building. Supporting the 
 arches of the chancel were two co- 
 lumns of oolite, 17 ft. high. They 
 were removed to a garden on the 
 N. side of Canterbury Cathedral. 
 
176 
 
 ROUTE 5. — RECULVER CHURCH- — BIRCHINGTON. 
 
 They have been 1 restored ' by Dr. 
 Sheppard, of Canterbury. They 
 appear to be Roman. The W. 
 towers, called 4 The Sisters/ visible 
 from a great distance, and a land- 
 mark at sea, are successors and sub- 
 stitutes erected by the Trinity Board 
 in the place of those which, as an 
 unsupported tradition asserts, were 
 built by an Abbess of the 1 poor 
 nuns of Davington,' near Faversham ; 
 who, as with her sister she was pro- 
 ceeding in fulfilment of a vow from 
 Faversham to the chapel of the 
 Virgin at Broadstairs, was wrecked 
 at Reculver, where her sister died. 
 The Abbess is said to have built the 
 ch. towers in memory of the event, 
 and as a warning guide to future 
 sailors along the coast. The ancient 
 remains discovered at Reculver have 
 been much scattered, and the prin- 
 cipal notice of them will be found 
 in the Antiquitates Butupinw of Bat- 
 tery (171 1 ), who, when rector of 
 Adisham, made extensive researches 
 at Reculver. A bronze strigil, used 
 in the bath, is preserved in the 
 library of Trinity College, Cam- 
 bridge ; it and numerous other 
 objects are figured in Mr. Smith's 
 Antiquities. There is a little inn near 
 the Castrum, 1 The King Ethelbert,' 
 at which the visitor will find rude 
 accommodation. The very new 
 range of Coastguard buildings stands 
 in striking contrast to the venerable 
 ruins in a manner not altogether 
 pleasing to the eye. 
 
 Some distance from the coast 
 between Whitstable and Reculver, is 
 the Pan Sand or Pudding-pan Bock, 
 from which oyster-fishers constantly 
 dredge up great quantities of Samian 
 pottery. 'It has been supposed by 
 some, that a vessel laden with Samian 
 ware may have foundered here. 
 Others suggest that a pottery has 
 been submerged. As the sea has 
 made extensive inroads upon this 
 coast, it is more than probable that 
 the locality which furnishes the ware 
 was formerly dry ground/ — (C. B. 
 Smith.) Neither of these theories 
 
 seems satisfactory, and Mr. Smith 
 has proved that all the shining red 
 Roman pottery was imported from 
 Gaul.] 
 
 [There is a good road from Heme 
 Bay to Canterbury (10 m.) hilly 
 and varied, but not, as French guide- 
 books would say, very ' fertile en 
 emotions.' About half-way 1., in the 
 parish of Hoath, are some scanty re- 
 mains of the Archiepiscopal Palace 
 of Ford, the most ancient (except 
 Canterbury) belonging to the see, 
 to which it was given by Ethel- 
 bert. The house, which was of brick 
 and extensive, was rebuilt by Abp. 
 Morton. Cranmer reviewed the 
 'Articles of Religion* here, and had 
 many ' friendly conferences ' at Ford 
 with Ridley, then vicar of Heme, 
 the adjoining parish. Here too he 
 was apprehended and committed 
 to the Tower after the accession of 
 Mary. Parker wished to pull it 
 down and enlarge Bekesbourne, but 
 the Queen would not consent. Whit- 
 gift used to hunt in the park ; an un- 
 archiepiscopal recreation, punished 
 in the person of his successor, Abbot, 
 who, after accidentally killing a 
 keeper with an arrow in. Bramshill 
 Park, Hants, spent the period of his 
 disgrace here. The Parliament de- 
 molished Ford and sold the ma- 
 terials. The estate was restored by 
 Charles II., but the archbishops 
 were freed by Act of Parliament 
 from keeping the house in repair, 
 together with the palaces at Canter- 
 bury and Bekesbourne.] 
 
 70J m. Birehington (Stat . )* an 
 ancient village which has sprung 
 into existence as a favourite water- 
 ing-place during the last 20 years. 
 
 The church contains some interest- 
 ing Brasses : John Quek and child, 
 1449 ; Richard Quek, 1459 ; Alys 
 Crispe, 1518 ; John Heynys (vicar), 
 with chalice and wafer, 1523 ; 
 Margaret Crispe, 1528 ; and another 
 Margaret, with chrysome child, 
 1533. (The chrysome ( ' chrismale') 
 was the white cloth which infants 
 
ROUTE 6. — LONDON TO MAIDSTONE. 
 
 177 
 
 wore for a month after baptism. If 
 the child died during that period, 
 the chrysome served for its shroud. ) 
 In the churchyard here, as in some 
 others in this part of Kent, was a 
 small building called the * wax- 
 house/ in which the lights used in 
 the ch. and for processions were 
 made. 
 
 Birchington Bay is a sea- shore 
 suburb of Birchington. Daundelyon 
 (see Rte. 7) is 2 m. distant. 
 
 72 m. Westgate (Stat.),* like 
 Herne Bay is an entirely modern 
 watering-place, which has recently 
 come into favour on account of its 
 healthy situation. It has been 
 chosen as a suitable place for a 
 number of private schools. 
 
 The remaining stations are — 
 Margate (7 3 J), East Margate (74-J), 
 Broaclstairs (77), and Ramsgate (79\ 
 for all of which see Rte. 7. The 
 approach to Ramsgate is by a tunnel 
 under the East Cliff, and the station 
 is on the sands close to the pier. 
 
 ROUTE 6. 
 
 LONDON TO MAIDSTONE, BY LEWIS- 
 HAM, BLACKHEATH [eLTHAm], 
 CHARLTON, WOOLWICH, GRAVES- 
 END, STROOD, AND AYLESFORD. 
 
 (South-Eastern Railway. — Old North 
 Kent Line.) 44 m. 
 
 The North Kent Rly. belongs to 
 the South-Eastern Company, and 
 the London trains start from and 
 arrive at Charing Cross, Cannon 
 Street, Waterloo, and London Bridge 
 stations. Passing on arches through 
 Bermondsey, with its tanneries (see 
 Handbook for Surrey), it next 
 traverses the market- gardens of 
 Deptford, and reaches at 
 
 5 m. (from Charing Cross) New 
 
 Cross (Stat.). A widening of the 
 line begins here, which soon after 
 gives off on rt. the Sevenoaks, Tun- 
 bridge and Direct Dover line, and 
 the Mid Kent line to Beckenham, 
 Croydon and Hayes. The Dartford 
 Loop line, 11 m. in length (an off- 
 shoot of the Sevenoaks line\ passes 
 S. of Eltham to Bexley town, Cray- 
 ford and Dartford, saves 3 m. in 
 distance, and is used for the through 
 traffic, which thus avoids the 
 stoppages at Woolwich, Abbey Wood, 
 &c. By a new link line opened 
 1876, connecting Deptford and 
 Greenwich with Charlton on the N. 
 Kent line, much of the through N. 
 Kent traffic has been diverted from 
 the route now about to be described. 
 
 5| m. St. John's (Stat.). 
 
 6 m. Lewisham Junction. 
 
 The long straggling town of 
 Lewisham (Pop. 30,950) stretches 
 for a considerable distance along the 
 high road to Sevenoaks, but contains 
 nothing of interest. Together with 
 Deptford and Greenwich the manor 
 was granted by Eltruda (circ. 900) 
 to the Abbey of St. Peter at Ghent, 
 which had a cell here. 
 
 The church was rebuilt 1774, with 
 a Corinthian portico and other ele- 
 gances. In it is a monument by 
 Flaxman (representing a mourning 
 mother comforted by an angel) 
 for Mary, daughter of William 
 Lushington, Esq., d. 1797. The 
 inscription is by Hayley. Dr. Stan- 
 hope, author of Commentaries on 
 the Epistles and Gospels, and who, 
 according to the inscription on 
 his monument, ' happily united the 
 good Christian, the solid divine, and 
 the fine gentleman/ was long vicar 
 here, and is buried in the ch. Brian 
 Duppa, Bp. successively of Chiches- 
 ter, Salisbury, and, after the Restora- 
 tion, of Winchester, was born here 
 1588. 
 
 7 m. Blackheath Stat. 
 
 The heath lies N. of the station. 
 The high ground of Blackheath, its 
 
178 ROUTE 6. — BLACKHEATH : MORDEN COLLEGE. 
 
 dry soil and clear air, still make it 
 a favourite retreat from London ; 
 although the modern buildings are 
 by no means equal to the aristo- 
 cratic villas for which it was once 
 famous. Montague House, (now pulled 
 down) was the residence of Queen 
 Caroline, and the scene of the 
 Delicate Investigation. Brunswick 
 House, the 4 Babiole ' referred to by 
 Lord Chesterfield in his letters to 
 his son, was frequently inhabited by 
 him. It was afterwards assigned to 
 the Duchess of Brunswick. The 
 gallery in this house was built by 
 Lord Chesterfield. Lord Lyttletons 
 Villa, the residence of Major- General 
 Wolfe, and occasionally of his son,\ 
 the conqueror of Quebec, whose re- 
 mains were brought hither from 
 Canada, and interred at Greenwich. 
 These villas were all on the W. side 
 of the heath, adjoining Greenwich 
 Park. 
 
 Morden College, on the S. side of 
 the heath, was founded for decayed 
 merchants about 1695, by Sir John 
 Morden, whose statue, with that of 
 his wife, appears over the entrance. 
 Their portraits are in the hall ; and 
 they are buried in the chapel. The 
 building, which is of brick, and 
 forms a quadrangle, is surrounded 
 by grounds of some extent. E. of 
 the house is a picturesque lime- 
 tree avenue. 12 ' decayed Turkey 
 merchants ' were placed here by the 
 founder ; but the number has been 
 greatly increased by the aid of later 
 benefactors ; and the college now 
 contains 40 pensioners and 50 out- 
 pensioners ; a preference being given 
 to those who have traded with the 
 Levant. 
 
 The Watling Street crossed Black- 
 heath nearly in the direction of the 
 present London road, and many 
 barrows, apparently of the Brito 
 Roman period, have been opened 
 at different times along its course. 
 Near one of these, which still exists 
 toward the centre of the heath 
 Wat Tyler encamped in 1381 at the 
 head of 100,000 followers ; and on 
 
 the barrow itself Jack Cade's banner 
 is said to have been raised in 1450, 
 when the unhappy clerk of Chatham, 
 i taken setting of boys' copies,' was 
 condemned to be hanged in conse- 
 quence, ' with his pen and inkhorn 
 about his neck.' (Henry VI. Part II. 
 act iv.) In 1497 LordAudley and the 
 troops he had brought with him from 
 Cornwall pitched their tents here, 
 and were here defeated by Henry 
 VII. The site of Michael Joseph's 
 tent (one of their leaders) was shown 
 when Lambarde wrote. It was com- 
 monly called the 4 Smith's Forge/ 
 Joseph having been a blacksmith by 
 trade. The situation of Blackheath, 
 however, as the nearest open space 
 to London on the great road from the 
 Continent, has caused it to be distin- 
 guished in more peaceful annals, as 
 well as in those of rebellion. Illus- 
 trious visitors, who preferred the 
 Watling Street to the river as their 
 highway to London, were met here 
 and conducted in state to the city. 
 Henry IV., in 1400, met here Manuel 
 Emperor of Constantinople, who 
 came to beg for aid against the Sul- 
 tan Bajazet ; and sixteen years later 
 the Emperor Sigismund was received 
 here, and conducted in state to Lam- 
 beth. The mayor and 400 citizens, 
 all in scarlet, with red and white 
 hoods, here welcomed Henry V. on 
 his return from Agincourt. Cardinal 
 Campeius was met here by the Duke 
 of Norfolk in 15 19, when he arrived 
 in England as papal legate ; and here 
 Henry VIII. encountered Anne of 
 Cleves (having already inspected 
 her privately at Rochester, to his 
 Majesty's extreme dissatisfaction), 
 and conducted her to the palace at 
 Greenwich. One famous scene on 
 the heath has been painted by a 
 master-hand, and will at once be re- 
 membered. It was here that Charles 
 II. on his way from Dover met and 
 passed through the ranks of the 
 army of the Restoration ; and here 
 Sir Henry Lee of Woodstock, with 
 Bevis at his side, welcomed the King 
 ' to his own again,' and then closed 
 his eyes to open them no more. Few 
 
ROUTE 6. LEE — ELTHAM. 
 
 179 
 
 localities can boast, like Blackheath, | 
 of having been immortalised both by 
 Shakespeare and Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 These historical recollections 
 make up the only interest of Black- 
 heath, which has otherwise nothing 
 to attract the visitor. The views 
 from the higher parts of the heath 
 are altogether eclipsed by those 
 from Greenwich Park, which adjoins 
 it N"., beyond the London road. In 
 the side of the hill here, at ; The 
 Point/ above the park, and near 
 Trinity Church, is a cavern about 
 150 ft. in length. It consists of four 
 irregular chambers, cut in a stratum 
 of chalk and flint, and connected by 
 narrow galleries. In the farthest 
 chamber is a well of pure water. 
 The age of this cavern is altogether ' 
 unknown ; but it is probably of the 
 same character as those at Dartford. 
 See post; and ante, Kte. 1 (E. Til- 1 
 bury). A well is found in many of 
 the Picardy caverns there noticed. 
 
 Blackheath is famous for its 
 Boarding Schools, and has also in 
 its neighbourhood a grammar-school 
 established by Abraham Colfe, vicar 
 of Lewisham, in 1652 — the master 
 of which is liable to be displaced, 
 not merely 'if he give scandal or 
 bad example to the scholars or 
 others,' but * if he follow vain 
 gaudy fashions of apparel .... or if 
 he wear long, curled, or ruffian-like 
 hair/ Attached to this school is a 
 library given by its founder, but now 
 a little neglected. 
 
 About 1 m. S. of Blackheath is the 
 picturesque village of Lee (a stat. on 
 the Dartford Loop line), the neigh- 
 bourhood of which abounds with 
 modern villas and cottages of gen- 
 tility ' with double coach-houses/ 
 The ivy-clad tower only remains of 
 the old Church ; in the ch. -yd. is the 
 tomb of Edmund Halley, the second 
 Astronomer Royal at Greenwich, d. 
 1 741. William Parsons the come- 
 dian is buried here. A new ch. has 
 been built at no great distance. 
 There is much pleasing country in 
 the neighbourhood of Lee. 
 
 [The ancient palace of Eltham, 
 3 m. S.E., may be visited from 
 Blackheath, or from the Eltham 
 stat. on the Dartford Loop Line. 
 
 Eltham (edld-ham, the old home 
 or dwelling) is chiefly interesting as 
 having been a royal residence of the 
 kings of England from the days of 
 Henry III. (1271) to those of Henry 
 VIIL, who, in 1527, or shortly after, 
 abandoned it for his new palace at 
 Greenwich. The principal remain- 
 ing portions of the palace are, — the 
 banqueting-hall, a noble apart- 
 ment, with its magnificent roof of oak, 
 portions of its music gallery, its two 
 unequalled bays, and its series of 
 double windows on either side, still 
 in good preservation ; the buttery 
 (now the residence of R. Bloxam> 
 Esq.), with its beautiful corbelled 
 attics and ancient barge-board ga- 
 bles ; the ivy-covered bridge, with 
 its three ribbed arches, spanning 
 the moat on the N. side ; the curious 
 drains, formerly used as sallyports 
 in cases of emergency ; and the 
 battlemented wall, flanked with 
 loopholed turrets. As a specimen 
 of domestic architecture of the time 
 of Edward IV. (whose devices, the 
 falcon and fetterlock and the rose 
 en soleil, may still be discovered 
 among the carvings of the doorway 
 and oriel windows), the banqueting- 
 hall is of great interest. It was 
 rescued from speedy decay by repairs 
 undertaken by order of Government 
 in 1828, when 700?. were expended 
 on it, though it is still degraded 
 into a barn, as it has been for more 
 than a century. Yet it was on this 
 site that our Edwards and Henries 
 were wont to keep their Christmas 
 with splendour and feasting, and 
 that parliaments and great councils 
 of the realm were frequently held. 
 Edward III. sumptuously enter- 
 tained here (1364) his former 
 prisoner, John King of France, and 
 spent here much of his time during 
 the two years before his death 
 (which occurred at Richmond, 
 
180 
 
 ROUTE 6. — ELTHAM — CHARLTON. 
 
 Leo King of Armenia, when driven 
 out of his dominions by the Turks ; 
 and Froissart, the historian, was 
 present in the court of Eltham during 
 the same reign. Queen Elizabeth, 
 when a baby, was frequently brought 
 over here for change of air from her 
 birthplace at Greenwich, which, 
 however, like her royal father, she 
 preferred as a residence. During 
 the civil war the palace of Eltham 
 was occupied by the Earl of Essex, 
 who died here 1646 ; and it was 
 bestowed by Charles II., after the 
 restoration, on Sir John Shaw, for 
 services rendered at Brussels and 
 Antwerp. It continues in his 
 family, although a portion of land 
 originally in the royal park is still 
 vested in the crown. 
 
 When George IV. was repairing 
 Windsor Castle, he proposed to Sir 
 J. Wyattville to remove the roof 
 from the hall at Eltham to St. 
 George's Hall at Windsor, which 
 would have been carried into effect, 
 if the timbers had proved in 
 sufficiently sound condition. 
 
 The hall goes by the name of 
 ' King John's Barn,' perhaps from 
 some confusion with a son of Edward 
 II., called 1 John of Eltham/ who 
 was born here, and died young. 
 One of the titles of Frederick Prince 
 of Wales was Earl of Eltham, but it 
 is now merged in the crown. 
 
 Subterranean passages have been 
 traced for some 100 yards in a south- 
 easterly direction. The moat, which 
 still surrounds the entire building, 
 has been partially drained and 
 turfed. Many foundations of walls 
 remain within its area. An arch- 
 way in the palace 1 pleasaunce,' 
 now occupied by a market-gardener, 
 is worthy of notice, as being the 
 entrance to the old tilt-yard or 
 tilting-court. 
 
 The Church of Eltham was re- 
 built in 1875. The lofty oak reredos 
 is worth notice. In the churchyard 
 is the tomb, marked by an urn, of 
 George Home, Bp. of Norwich (d. 
 
 1792), the commentator on the 
 Psalms ; and that of Doggett, the 
 comedian (d. 1721), joint manager 
 of Drury Lane with Wilks and 
 Cibber, who bequeathed the coat 
 and badge for which the ' jolly 
 young watermen ' of the Thames 
 still contend annually. 1 Congreve,' 
 says Cibber, 1 was a great admirer of 
 Doggett, and found his account in 
 the characters he expressly wrote 
 for him. In those of Fondlewife in 
 the Old Bachelor, and Ben in Lore for 
 Love, no author and actor could be 
 more obliged to their mutual 
 masterly performances.' Sir William 
 James, the conqueror of Severn- 
 droog, whose 4 castle ' stands con- 
 spicuously on Shooters' Hill, above 
 Eltham, was also buried here. 
 
 Vandyke, during his life in Eng- 
 land, had a summer residence at 
 Eltham. The Philipotts, authors of 
 the Survey of Kent, were natives of 
 this place. John Lilburne, famous 
 for his eccentric movements during 
 the 6 general eclipse ' of the civil 
 wars, at last turned Quaker and 
 settled here, where he died in 1657. 
 Dr. Sherard, the botanist, lived here 
 during the early part of the last 
 century ; and Dillenius, whom 
 Sherard had brought to England, 
 and whom he afterwards appointed 
 the first Professor of Botany in the 
 chair founded by him at Oxford, 
 spent much of his time here, and 
 published a catalogue of Sherard's 
 plants with the title Hortus Eltham~ 
 ensis. The house in which Sherard 
 lived still exists. It was at Middle 
 Park, in this parish, that for some 
 years Mr. Blenkiron had his famous 
 racehorses. At the sale of his stock 
 after his death Blair Athol fetched 
 13,125?. and Gladiateur 7,350?.] 
 
 On the old line (now partially 
 disused for through traffic) a long 
 Tunnel precedes 
 
 9 m. Charlton (Stat.). 
 
 Charlton (Pop. 14,040) lies among 
 the low hills between Woolwich and 
 Blackheath, and is famous for its 
 
ROUTE 6. — CHARLTON CHURCH — WOOLWICH ARSENAL. 181 
 
 fair, only abolished as recently as 
 1870, and known as 1 Horn Fair/ 
 'by reason/ says Philipott, 'of all 
 sorts of winding horns, and cups 
 and other vessels of horn, there 
 brought to be sold/ For the story 
 connected with it see Rte. 1 (Cuck- 
 old's Point). The Church, rebuilt 
 1640, externally a very plain struc- 
 ture, is rich in monuments and 
 heraldic decorations. In the N. 
 chancel is the monument of Sir 
 Adam Newton and his wife, by Nich. 
 Stone, the sculptor. It is very 
 plain, but cost 180Z. The Rt. Hon. 
 Spencer Perceval and Mr. Edward 
 Drummond (Sir Robert Peel's secre- 
 tary^, who were both assassinated, 
 are buried here, as well as many 
 distinguished officers belonging to 
 the neighbouring garrison of Wool- 
 wich. 
 
 Charlton House (Sir Spencer M. 
 Maryon- Wilson, Bart.), an excellent 
 specimen of the James I. manor- 
 house, was built by Sir A. Newton, 
 circ. 1612, but was considerably 
 altered in 1695 by Sir William 
 Ducie. The hall is a very fine 
 apartment, two storeys high, and 
 furnished with a minstrels' gallery. 
 In the N. gallery is a good portrait 
 of Henry Prince of Wales, to whom 
 Sir Adam was tutor, and after whose 
 death he spent the greater part of 
 his life in retirement here, where 
 he translated and published in 1620 
 Father Sarpi's History of the Council 
 of Trent. One of the lower rooms 
 contains a black marble chimney- 
 piece, in the polished face of which 
 tradition asserts that Lord Downe 
 saw the reflection of a robbery on 
 Blackheath, and immediately sent 
 out his servants, by whom the 
 thieves were secured. Lord Downe 
 died here in 1679. In the grounds 
 of Charlton House are some of the 
 oldest cypresses in England. 
 
 A house in this parish, called the 
 Cherry Orchard, is said to have been 
 built by Inigo Jones for his own 
 residence. 
 
 The walk from Charlton to Wool- 
 wich, through the Hanging Wood N. 
 
 of Charlton House, is a pleasant 
 one. The sandpits here are well 
 worth visiting by the geologist ; 
 they display a n interesting succession 
 of strata — chalk, greensand, clay, 
 and alluvium ; and fossils may be 
 obtained from the workmen at a 
 very moderate cost. 
 
 10 m. Woolwich Dockyard (Stat.). 
 
 1 of m. Woolwich Arsenal (Stat.). 
 
 The town of WOOLWICH* (Pop. 
 40,848, exclusive of the garrison), 
 on the N.W. of which is the Royal 
 Dockyard, and on the N.E. the 
 Arsenal, occupies a space nearly 
 2 m. in length on the S. bank of the 
 Thames : and it extends 1 m. up- 
 wards from the river as far as the 
 brow of the hill where are the Royal 
 Artillery barracks ; to the S. of which 
 is a spacious level plateau, used for 
 exercising troops and called Wool- 
 wich Common. At the top of the 
 Common, and near its S.W. end, 
 and on the W. side of Shooters' Hill, 
 is the Herbert Hospital, com- 
 pleted in 1865, and named after 
 Lord Herbert of Lea. It has been 
 constructed on the most approved 
 modern sanitary principles ; the 
 wards all run due N. and S., with 
 windows on each side, so as to get 
 both morning and evening sun. 
 There is accommodation for about 
 700 patients. 
 
 The formation of the Dockyard 
 (see Rte. 1) cannot be referred to an 
 earlier period than the accession of 
 Henry VIII. It long continued of 
 very small extent ; and has only 
 been increased to its present size 
 during the present century. 
 
 The Arsenal is close to the rly. 
 stat. ; it is shown, by tickets, on 
 Tues. and Thurs., 10 to n| a.m., 
 and 2 to 4 \ p.m. Tickets must be 
 obtained by making written or per- 
 sonal application to the War Office. 
 Any officer of the garrison can intro- 
 duce a visitor on presenting him 
 personally to the Commandant. A 
 
182 ROUTE 6. — WOOLWICH ARSENAL: GUN FACTORY. 
 
 visitor who wishes to see more than 
 he can see during the forenoon hours 
 may re-enter at 2 o'clock by mention- 
 ing a wish to that effect when he 
 goes away at 1 o'clock. 
 
 The Arsenal which is the only one 
 in the empire (the smaller establish- 
 ments elsewhere are called Gun- 
 wharfs, as at Devon port and Chat- 
 ham), though established previously, 
 made its first great start in 17 16, up 
 to which time the principal foundry, 
 for brass ordnance, in the neighbour- 
 hood of London was at Moorfields. 
 In that year, during the casting of 
 a cannon, the mould burst, and 
 many persons were killed or injured. 
 The accident was caused by the 
 dampness of the moulds in which 
 some of the French guns taken by 
 Marlborough were being recast. It 
 led to a determination to remove 
 the establishment to some preferable 
 situation not far from London, and 
 Woolwich was selected not only be- 
 cause an embryo arsenal already ex- 
 isted there but on account of the 
 abundance of loam, suitable for 
 moulds, in the neighbourhood (these 
 loam-beds are lower members of the 
 London-clay formation, just above 
 the local chalk) ; a new foundry 
 was at once erected, the building 
 being designed by Vanbrugh. It 
 still stands immediately near the 
 great gate of the Arsenal, but has 
 been disused. A young German 
 named Schalch was appointed master 
 founder, an office which he held for 
 60 years. He lies buried in Wool- 
 wich church-yard. The gun itself, 
 the cause of all this change, is still 
 preserved in the Royal Military Re- 
 pository (No. 31 of Class II. of Gen. 
 Lefroy's Catalogue). 
 
 Additional reasons for selecting 
 this site may have been, that it was 
 close to the seat of government, not 
 exposed to attack, and yet con- 
 venient for shipping cannon and 
 stores. The sloping ground on which 
 the original gun-factory stands was 
 once a Roman cemetery, and Roman 
 urns have been found here. 
 
 This establishment covers an area 
 
 of more than 350 acres, and contains 
 not only the large stores of alldescrip- 
 tions, the cannon, shot, and shells, 
 &c, which are required for the 
 supply of our armies, and the arma- 
 ment of our fortresses and ships, but 
 also workshops for constructing guns 
 and carriages, as well as for pre- 
 paring ammunition for artillery and 
 small arms. These are divided into 
 four departments : the Gun Factory, 
 Carriage Department, Store De- 
 partment, and Laboratory. 
 
 Ever since the Crimean war, but 
 more especially since the introduc- 
 tion of rifled guns, large sums have 
 been expended in the construction 
 of new buildings and machinery, 
 for the purpose of rendering every 
 branch as rapidly effective as pos- 
 sible. Each department is now 
 under the control of a field-officer 
 of artillery, with the title of Super- 
 intendent ; and there is a captain of 
 artillery, with a staff of sergeants, 
 attached to each department for the 
 purpose of instructing officers and 
 men in the manufacture and nature 
 of material of war. The Arsenal is 
 4 m. in circuit ; it includes 20 great 
 chimney stalks, 12 furnaces, 20 
 steam-hammers, and employs about 
 10,000 workpeople, a number which 
 has at times been augmented to 
 14,000. 
 
 In the Gun Factory all our 
 
 various kinds of ordnance are made. 
 The system of casting ordnance has 
 been abandoned in this country, and 
 guns are now exclusively made of 
 hammered iron and steel, built up 
 of a number of separate parts. 
 
 The operations of coiling the bars, 
 welding a coil, shrinking one coil 
 over another, boring, turning, and 
 rifling, and forging a breach or trun- 
 nion-piece, are of great interest. In 
 the latter operations a steam-ham- 
 mer may be seen uniting the huge 
 piled-up slabs of iron while they are 
 rendered pasty by heat. The de- 
 scending mass of the largest hammer 
 weighs 40 tons and falls through a 
 space of 15 feet, while pressure on 
 
ROUTE 6. — WOOLWICH ARSENAL: CAP FACTORY. 183 
 
 the piston can be applied to aid the 
 force of the blow, so as to render 
 the blow equivalent to the fall of 40 
 tons from a height of 80 feet. 
 
 The Carriage Department is de- 
 voted to the construction of vehicles 
 of every description used in the 
 service of artillery or for transport 
 of stores, ambulances, platforms, 
 &c. Immense quantities of timber — 
 not only the English oak, ash, and 
 elm, but mahogany from Spain and 
 South America, African oak, teak 
 from Burmah, and fir from the Baltic 
 and North America, — may here be 
 seen stacked to the extent of 50,000 
 or 60,000 loads. The timber, when 
 properly seasoned, is taken to the 
 saw-mills, where it is cut either into 
 planks by immense vertical saws, or 
 cross-cut by a huge circular saw 66 
 inches in diameter, which rises from 
 a chamber below the log through 
 an opening in the floor and revolves 
 with fearful rapidity. The manu- 
 facture of wheels is entirely con- 
 ducted under one roof, and is espe- 
 cially interesting. The shaping, 
 boring, and mortising of the naves, 
 the shaping the spokes in a copying 
 machine, in which the cutters re- 
 volve upwards of 4000 times in a 
 minute, the planing the felloes, and 
 cutting them to the requisite shape 
 by a riband-saw, are all to be seen 
 side by side. By means of the band- 
 saw, the most intricate curves may be 
 cut in wood. The component parts of 
 a wheel being prepared, the spokes 
 inserted into the nave at one end 
 and the tyre at the other, are placed 
 within the compass of a circular 
 compressing hydraulic machine, 
 which, closing upon them, fastens 
 the whole together : ' you hear 
 the hiss of the resistless engines, 
 whose motive power is only a few 
 pints of water ; the solid timbers 
 groan, the joints painfully accommo- 
 date themselves to each other, and, 
 in less time than the process takes 
 to describe, the wheel is lifted out 
 compactly put together. The wheels 
 of gun, limber, and ammunition 
 
 carriages are all made of exactly the 
 same size, in order that they may 
 be interchangeable in case of acci- 
 dent/ — (A. Wynter.) 
 
 For most purposes wooden car- 
 riages have been superseded by 
 wrought-iron ones, which have the 
 advantage of greater durability, 
 while only of equal weight. 
 
 Among the other most interesting 
 machines may be named those for 
 mortising and tenoning powder- 
 cases and making bungs for them. 
 
 The Laboratory contains a splen- 
 did shell-foundry, where thousands 
 of shot and shells are turned out 
 daily. The chief factory of this de- 
 partment is one of the great sights 
 of the Arsenal ; 20 or 30 most curious 
 operations may be witnessed here : 
 the most interesting machine is that 
 which manufactures bullets for the 
 Martini-Henry rifle (turning out 500 
 a minute, or a million a- week). 
 
 In the Cap Factory percussion- 
 caps, lubricators, and tubes for firing 
 guns are made. Fuses and rockets 
 are constructed in a part of the 
 Arsenal at the east end, separate 
 from all the other shops, for greater 
 security against accidents. 
 
 In the marshes to the E. of the 
 Arsenal is an extensive piece of 
 ground called the Practice Range, 
 intended for experiment and, till 
 lately, for practice with artillery 
 from batteries constructed for the 
 purpose. No practice is now carried 
 on here, the troops at Woolwich pro- 
 ceeding in turns to Shoeburyness, 
 where there is a more extended and 
 safer range ; but all cannon made in 
 England, whether by Government or 
 private firms, are tested here. The 
 experiments are carried on not only 
 with the object of testing inventions, 
 but of proving every gun made here 
 by the severest possible tests. 
 
 A singular sight is the cemetery of 
 exploded guns — an acre of ground 
 covered with guns burst and shat- 
 tered, like broken potsherds, along, 
 in many cases, with the hopes of 
 those who invented them. 
 
184 ROUTE 6. — WOOLWICH: 
 
 ROYAL MILITARY ACADEMY. 
 
 About i m. from the Arsenal and 
 stat. are 
 
 The Artillery Barracks, which 
 consist principally of an extensive 
 range of buildings facing the Com- 
 mon (in front of which is an enormous 
 brass gun, taken at Bhurtpore in 
 1828, and a Crimean monument), 
 and two large squares to the N. 
 surrounded by stables, with quarters 
 over them for the men. 
 
 At the E. end is the Garrison 
 Church, built, 1 861, in the Roman- 
 esque style, after designs by Wyatt. 
 Near this is the Royal Artillery 
 Institution, containing a good col- 
 lection of minerals, natural history 
 rooms, ancient armour and weapons, 
 a library, printing-establishment, 
 photographic branch, lecture-room, 
 &c. 
 
 At the W. end of the barracks is 
 the Royal Military Repository 
 
 (not open to the public), enclosed by 
 a line of field-works, where the in- 
 struction in serving and moving 
 heavy guns is carried on. The 
 grounds are well wooded and very 
 pretty : and contain sheets of water 
 which are made to serve for practice 
 in pontooning, and in the construc- 
 tion of bridges. 
 
 On the highest point is the Ro- 
 tunda (open to the public free and 
 without tickets every week day, 
 10-12.45 and 2-4, or later, according 
 to the season), originally the tent 
 which did duty as a supper-room 
 at a fete given at Carlton House by 
 the Prince Regent to the allied sove- 
 reigns, T814. The Rotunda serves as 
 a Royal Artillery Museum, and now 
 contains many and valuable speci- 
 mens of ancient gunnery, arms, and 
 armour. An excellent but expensive 
 (3s. 6d.) catalogue has been printed 
 for the use of the public. Among 
 the most curious cannon are the 
 bombard of the 15th century, from 
 Battle Abbey, originally from Bodiam 
 Castle (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 1) ; the 
 cannon of the same century, found 
 at the Isle of Walney ; those from 
 
 the wreck of the ' Mary Rose/ of 
 the time of Henry VIII. ; and the 
 brass gun imperfectly cast in Moor- 
 fields in 1 7 16, which led to the re- 
 moval of the Royal Foundry to 
 Woolwich {ante). The ancient ar- 
 mour has some striking examples : 
 among the rest, two knightly helms 
 of the 14th and 15th centuries, a 
 cap-a-pie suit of the 1 Maximilian 
 period,' suits of the Knights of 
 Malta, vamplates of singular con- 
 struction, and a variety of Indian 
 panoplies of the time of Hyder Ali 
 and Tippoo Saib. The weapons, both 
 European and Eastern, are in great 
 abundance. General Lefroy has con- 
 tributed an interesting series of the 
 objects found in the ancient lake- 
 dwellings of Switzerland, and a 
 small collection of Celtic objects has 
 been added by the kindness of 
 friends. Models of forts, garrisons 
 and field-works are among the most 
 interesting of the objects here 
 amassed. The lines of Torres Ve- 
 dras are reproduced, and the models 
 of Gibraltar, Quebec, and St. Helena 
 are very fine. A curious series of 
 iron defences, exhibiting the effects 
 of modern projectiles, has been added 
 to the collection. The number of 
 objects already accumulated at the 
 Royal Military Repository exceeds 
 five thousand. Notice in front of 
 the Rotunda the great Turkish gun 
 weighing 19 tons, and the stone shot, 
 brought from the Dardanelles. 
 
 On the Common, S.E. of the Repo- 
 sitory Ground, is the Royal Mili- 
 tary Academy, for the education 
 of cadets destined for the Artillery 
 and Engineers. The average number 
 here is about 200. The academy was 
 built in 1805, from the designs of 
 Sir. J. Wyattville, and is a miracle 
 of bad taste. The eminent mathe- 
 maticians, Simpson, Hutton, Gregory, 
 and Sylvester have held appoint- 
 ments here. The gymnasium and 
 school of arms are among the largest 
 existing ; and the dining-hall, wain- 
 scoted with oak, its walls decorated 
 with armour and weapons and with 
 
ROUTE 6. — SHOOTERS' 
 
 HILL — ABBEY WOOD. 185 
 
 stained glass windows, is worth in- 
 spection. 
 
 Not very far from the old dock- 
 yard, and on the border of the parish 
 of Charlton, is the Compass Ob- 
 servatory ; a small building, but 
 one of great importance. The stan- 
 dard compasses for the use of the 
 navy are carefully tested here before 
 being supplied to ships. No metal 
 but copper is used in the construc- 
 tion of the Observatory itself. 
 
 A division of Royal Marines was 
 established at Woolwich in 1805, but 
 has lately been suppressed. 
 
 The interest of Woolwich is en- 
 tirely confined to these great esta- 
 blishments. The churches contain 
 nothing to detain the tourist. The 
 parish church, dedicated to St. Mary 
 Magdalene, was rebuilt about 1740. 
 Two modern churches, St. John's 
 and St. Thomas's, were built in 1840 
 and 1850. The first is E. E. in de- 
 sign, and tolerably good. 
 
 Richard Lovelace the poet was 
 born at Woolwich in 1618, at the 
 house of his father, Sir William 
 Lovelace, the site of which is un- 
 known. 
 
 At the back of Woolwich rises 
 Shooters' Hill, so named, perhaps, 
 like Gad's Hill near Rochester, from 
 bands of outlaws having anciently 
 lain hid in the woods bordering the 
 great road, which crossed the hill. 
 The name of the hamlet of Welling-, 
 or WellEnd, beyond the hill, is said 
 to express the feelings of travellers 
 who had safely passed these dangers. 
 From the summit the view is very 
 fine on all sides ; finest, perhaps, 
 toward London : — 
 
 'A mighty mass of brick, and smoke, and 
 shipping, 
 
 Dirty and dusky, but as wide as eye 
 Could reach, with here and there a sail 
 just skipping 
 In sight, then lost amid the forestry 
 Of masts ; a wilderness of steeples peeping 
 On tiptoe through their seacoal canopy ; 
 A huge, dun cupola, like a foolscap crown 
 • On a fool's head — and there is London 
 town ! ' Don Juan, canto xi. 
 
 The tower in the plantation off 
 the road commemorates the taking 
 
 of Severndroog Castle on the coast 
 of Malabar, in 1755, by Sir William 
 James, and was erected by his widow, 
 The summit of this tower is 482 ft. 
 above the sea-level. 
 
 Eltham, with its ancient palace, 
 lies i| m. beyond Shooters' Hill, S. 
 It is best visited, however, from 
 Blackheath {mite). 
 
 Leaving Woolwich, the rail passes 
 across the Plumstead and Erith 
 marshes (in the first of which a 
 powder magazine is seen, 1.) to re- 
 gain the river at Erith. 
 
 n| m. Plumstead (Stat.). 
 
 Plumstead church has some E. E. 
 portions, but has been much altered 
 and added to. 
 
 The churchyard exhibits a choice 
 i derangement of epitaphs/ one of 
 which contains a remarkable warn- 
 ing against the abuse of Kentish 
 cherry-gardens : — 
 
 'Weep not for me, my parents dear, 
 There is no witness wanted here ; 
 The hammer of Death was given to me 
 For eating the cherries off the tree.' 
 
 There are some good views from 
 the hill above Plumstead : and the 
 walk from here to Erith is a pleasant 
 one. It was a favourite walk of 
 Robert Bloomfield the poet, during 
 his occasional residences at Shooters* 
 Hill, and is thus commemorated by 
 him : — 
 
 'O'er eastward upland?, gay or rude, 
 
 Along to Erith' s ivied spire, 
 I start, with strength and hope renew'd, 
 
 And cherish life's rekindling fire. 
 Now measure vales with straining eyes, 
 Now trace the churchyard's humble 
 names, 
 
 Or climb brown heaths abrupt that rise, 
 And overlook the winding Thames.' 
 
 13 m. Abbey Wood (Stat.). 
 
 Notice on 1. the works of the Me- 
 tropolitan Main Drainage, a rather 
 fantastic pile, with lofty chimney- 
 tower. 
 
 Abbey Wood is so named from 
 the Abbey of Lesnes, of which the 
 ruins lie a short distance S. The dis- 
 trict of Lesnes (pronounced Lessness, 
 
186 
 
 ROUTE 6. ABBEY 
 
 WOOD — CRAYFORD. 
 
 in Domesday written Loisnes ; the 
 etymology of the word seems quite 
 uncertain) stretches across Lesnes 
 Heath to Erith, and gives name to 
 the hundred ; Erith, the parish in 
 which it stands, being the ancient 
 landing-place (cerre • hythe, the old 
 haven) from the river. The Abbey, 
 a house of Augustinian canons, was 
 founded in 1 178 by Richard de Lucy, 
 Chief Justice of England (' Ricardus 
 Lux Luciorum,' as his monument 
 here was inscribed ; and who after- 
 wards himself joined the order here), 
 and dedicated to St. Mary and the 
 new martyr Abp. Becket, by whom 
 de Lucy had been excommunicated 
 with others of the King's party. 
 Subsequent benefactors did much 
 for the abbey, which, however, was 
 never very wealthy, and was sup- 
 pressed in T524, together with three 
 other small monasteries, Wolsey 
 having obtained a bull from Clement 
 VII. for this purpose, and for the 
 application of the revenues toward 
 the endowment of his new college at 
 Oxford. After Wolsey's fall, Les- 
 nes Abbey and its manors passed 
 through various hands, until toward 
 the end of the 17th cent, they were 
 settled by their then owner, partly 
 on the Hospital of St. Bartholomew 
 in London, and partly on Christ's 
 Hospital, which still possess them. 
 
 The existing ruins, the area of 
 which is occupied as a market-gar- 
 den, consist mainly of the N. wall 
 of the refectory, and are part of the 
 original foundation. The ch. seems 
 to have extended beyond, and the 
 position of the cloister court adjoin- 
 ing is still traceable. The present 
 house, called the Abbey Farm, is 
 built on part of the old foundation, 
 and is the recent successor of one far 
 more ancient and picturesque. The 
 convent garden still remains en- 
 closed within its ancient boundary 
 wall. 
 
 3 m. S.E. from Abbey Wood is 
 Bexley Heath, an assemblage of villas, 
 1 A m. N. of Bexley. (Rte. 3.) Ad- 
 joining the Heath is Danson Hill (A. 
 
 W. Bean, Esq.), the grounds of 
 which were laid out by Capability 
 Brown. 
 
 The Church of East Wickham, 
 
 2 m. S. of the stat., contains two good 
 Brasses— John Bladigdone and wife, 
 i325(half-lengths,in head of floriated 
 cross), and Will. Payn, in the dress 
 of a yeoman of the guard, three wives 
 and three sons, 1568.] 
 
 14J m. Belvedere (Stat.) ; and 
 15I m. Erith (Stat.) (Rte. 1.) 
 
 [Crayford, a stat. on the Dart ford 
 Loop line, m. S. of Erith, on the 
 little River Cray, which gives its 
 name to a chain of picturesque 
 villages on its banks ('The Crays'), 
 is the Creccan-ford of the Saxon 
 Chronicle, at which place the se- 
 cond of the battles between Hengist 
 and the Britons is said to have been 
 fought; after which 'the Britons 
 forsook Kent-land,' that is, the open 
 country or Caint (Celt.) lying along 
 the river. — (Guest.) On Bexley Heath, 
 W. and S. of Crayford, the course of 
 the W r atling Street, which may have 
 influenced the battle (supposing it 
 to be other than legendary), is 
 strongly marked. Here and on 
 many of the neighbouring heaths 
 are numerous excavations in the 
 chalk, of great depth, with narrow 
 mouths, but widening into ample 
 vaults below. They resemble those 
 at E. Tilbury (see Rte. 1, where is a 
 notice of similar caves in Picardy). 
 A tradition resembling that on the 
 banks of the Somme is connected 
 with these caves, which are said to 
 have been constructed by the Britons 
 for retreat in time of war. Similar 
 pits in the neighbourhood of Ayles- 
 ford are found filled with flints 
 from the chalk, and are probably 
 sepulchral (post). At Crayford re- 
 mains of the palaeolithic age have 
 been found below 37 ft. of gravel 
 and sand. Crayford Church is de- 
 dicated to St. Paulinus, the fellow 
 missionary of Augustine, and third 
 bp. of Rochester. The altarpiece was 
 
ROUTE G. — DARTFORD : CHURCH. 
 
 187 
 
 the gift of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, 
 who owned considerable property in 
 this parish, and whose widow died 
 here at May Place (E. Horner, Esq.). 
 She has a monument in the ch. The 
 chief peculiarity in the Church is 
 the double nave : consisting of two 
 aisles with range of five arches run- 
 ning down the centre ; and meeting 
 the centre of the archway leading to 
 the chancel. On the river, near the 
 village, are some large establish- 
 ments for silk and calico printing ; 
 and some sawmills, at which the 
 flooring for Buckingham Palace was 
 cut. A mill of more romantic as- 
 sociations, for the manufacture of 
 plates for armour, formerly existed 
 on the Cray. — [Harris.) For the 
 valley of the Cray, and the churches 
 of Bexley, the Crays, and Orpington, 
 see Rte 3.I 
 
 Beyond Erith the line of rail bends 
 inland from the river. 
 
 i8| m. Dartford* (Stat.) . 
 
 A town of some importance (Pop. 
 
 I I, 962), lyingbetween two steep hills 
 at the place where the Roman road 
 crossed the river Darenth (Dwr, 
 Celt, water; so the Devonshire Dart 
 and the Iberian Douro\ which from 
 this place opens in a broad naviga- 
 ble creek to the Thames. No bridge, 
 however, existed here until the end 
 of the reign of Henry VI., up to 
 which time the river was crossed by 
 a ferry. Dartford is famous for its 
 large paper and powder mills ; and 
 the town is rapidly increasing, and 
 there is some pleasant country in 
 the neighbourhood. 
 
 A Priory of Augustinian nuns 
 was founded here in 1355 by Edward 
 
 III. , and was much patronized by 
 the noble ladies of Kent, many of 
 whom retired here from the world. 
 After the Dissolution the Priory 
 was converted into a residence for 
 Henry VIII., by whom it was after- 
 wards granted to Anne of Cleves. 
 On reverting to the Crown, it formed 
 a part of the lands exchanged by 
 James I. with Sir Robert Cecil for 
 
 [Kent.~] 
 
 his manor of Theobalds. The Cecils 
 conveyed the Priory to Sir Edward 
 Darcy, who lived there. The re- 
 mains, now called the Place House, 
 lie at the W. end of the town, but 
 are of no great interest. The gate- 
 house, and a building attached to 
 it, now used as a farmhouse, are of 
 brick, and not earlier than Henry 
 VII. The building is said to have 
 been very extensive, as is partly 
 proved by the ancient wall of enclo- 
 sure, portions of which still exist. 
 
 A Chantry of St. Edmund the Mar- 
 tyr, which stood detached, in its own 
 cemetery on the opposite side of the 
 town, was granted to the Priory by 
 Edward III., and formed part of its 
 first endowment. The Chantry was 
 visited by pilgrims on their way to 
 Canterbury ; and was in so great 
 repute on its own account that the 
 Wat ling Street towards London is 
 occasionally referred to as 'St. Ed- 
 mund's Way.' The chantry ruins 
 have completely disappeared, but the 
 cemetery is still in use ; it contains 
 a ' Martyrs' Memorial/ preserving 
 the names of several Protestants 
 burnt on Dartford Brent, temp. 
 Mary, and commands a wide view. 
 
 Dartford Church, the tower as- 
 cribed to Gundulf, and supposed to 
 have been originally a military work 
 for the defence of the river, has been 
 greatly altered at different times ; 
 the chancel was well restored, 1863. 
 Within are the remains of a Dec. 
 screen, and some fine brasses. In 
 a side chapel is the monument of 
 Sir John Spielman (d. 1607), Queen 
 Elizabeth's jeweller, who built here 
 one of the earliest paper-mills in 
 England. Brasses : Richard Martyn 
 and wife, 1402 ; Agnes Molyngton, 
 1454 ; Joan, wife of William Rothele, 
 1464 ; and some others. On E. wall 
 of S. chancel are traces of a fresco of 
 St. George and the Dragon. There 
 are remarkable inscriptions on brasses 
 to John Hornby, B.D., 1477, and 
 Richard Burlton and wife, 1496. A 
 Consistory Court of the Bps. of Ro- 
 chester, the records of which remain> 
 
 p 
 
188 
 
 ROUTE 6. — DARTFORD — SWANSCOMBE. 
 
 was held in this church in mediaeval 
 days. 
 
 The powder and paper mills, both 
 of great extent, are a little beyond 
 the town. The paper-mills were es- 
 tablished by Spielman, who planted 
 before the door the first two lime-trees 
 ever seen in this part of England, 
 having { brought them over sea with 
 him in his portmanteau.' These 
 fathers of English limes were cut 
 down toward the end of the last cen- 
 tury. They have, however, numerous 
 representatives ; and the men of 
 Dartford, thanks to Sir John, may 
 still refresh themselves 'unter den 
 linden/ 
 
 The great 1 illustration ' of Dart- 
 ford is Wat Tyler : who in the fifth 
 year of Richard II. commenced his 
 insurrection here by beating out the 
 brains of the poll-tax collector. 
 Whether he or the collector is 
 alluded to in the local rhyme — 
 
 'Sutton for mutton, 
 
 Kirby for beef, 
 South Darne for gingerbread, 
 And Dartford for a thief ' — ■ 
 
 the reader may determine for him- 
 self. The places thus poetically 
 commemorated all lie on the stream 
 of the Darenth, above Dartford. 
 
 The views from Dartford Heath, 
 i m. S.W. of the town, are fine, em- 
 bracing a wide sweep of the river. 
 On different parts of the heath are 
 numerous hollows and excavations 
 in the chalk, resembling those at 
 Crayford, the age and even the ex- 
 tent of which is altogether unknown. 
 They descend by deep shafts, and 
 widen below into numberless cham- 
 bers and galleries. Similar hollows, 
 though perhaps not so extensive, 
 exist at Tilbury, on the Essex shore, 
 on the Aylesford Downs, and else- 
 where in the chalk district ; and it 
 seems most probable that they were 
 originally excavated partly as sepul- 
 chral caves and partly for the sake 
 of the chalk, which is known to 
 have been exported during the Brito- 
 Roman period ; although they may 
 have been afterwards enlarged and 
 
 arranged as places of temporary re- 
 treat and security. (See E. Tilbury, 
 Rte. i, and Crayford, ante.) At Little- 
 brook farm, near Dartford, some Saxon 
 graves were opened in 1883. The 
 graves were placed so that the feet 
 were nearer than the heads. Little- 
 brook in the 10th century was a 
 place of some size. 
 
 Between Dartford and Dartford 
 Brent, a heath lying S.E. of the 
 town, the course of the Roman road 
 is still very conspicuous. The chalk 
 downs which here border the Da- 
 renth, everywhere dotted with black 
 tufts of juniper, are famous for the 
 many species of orchis to be found 
 on them. 
 
 [1 m. S.j on the road to Farning- 
 ham, the village of Wilmington 
 stands pleasantly among cherry-gar- 
 dens, which form the great wealth of 
 the neighbourhood. The manor has 
 passed through many illustrious 
 hands, including those of the ' King 
 Maker* Earl of Warwick, and of 
 Margaret Plantagenet, Countess of 
 Salisbury, the mother of Reginald 
 Pole. The ch. has been restored, 
 and a new S. aisle has been added. 
 The substantial house at the corner 
 of the road is Wilmington House (F. T. 
 Tasker, Esq.). At Joyden's Wood in 
 this parish are traces of ancient 
 buildings, probably Roman, which 
 have not been sufficiently examined.] 
 
 From Dartford the line of rail 
 bends N. toward the river, and, 
 leaving Stone Church (Rte. 1) rt., 
 reaches 
 
 21 J m. Greenhithe Stat. (Rte. 1). 
 
 [i| m. S. E. of Greenhithe is 
 Swanscombe, in Domesday written 
 Suinescamp, and said to derive its 
 name from a winter camp of the 
 Danes, fixed here under their king 
 Sweyn, — the river having at one 
 time formed an inlet as high as this 
 place. Early traditions have at 
 all times become connected with 
 Swanscombe, the most remarkable 
 being that which places here the 
 meeting of the Conqueror with the 
 
ROUTE 6. — SWANSCOMBE '. CHURCH. 
 
 189 
 
 { men of Kent,' led by Abp. Stigand 
 and the abbot of St. Augustine's. 
 Like the host of Malcolm at Dunsi- 
 nane, the Kentish army is said to 
 have moved forward under a cloud 
 of green boughs, which they flung 
 down when within reach of the Nor- 
 man, who, alarmed at their number 
 and firmness, confirmed on the spot 
 all their ancient laws and privileges. 
 Hence, says tradition, the distinction 
 between the 'men of Kent' — who 
 thus secured their old freedom — and 
 the * Kentish men,' or VicU, to be 
 found in other parts of the county, 
 — the 'men of Kent' being more 
 especially the inhabitants of the 
 long valley of Holmsdale, stretching 
 away from Dorking toward Seven- 
 oaks, and renowned in popular 
 legend as 
 
 1 The vale of Holmsdale — 
 Never conquered, never shall.' 
 
 This story first appears in the 
 Chronicles of Sprott and Thorne, 
 monks of St. Augustine's, Canter- 
 bury ; but, although they may have 
 embroidered it for the sake of their 
 abbot, iEgilswin, they probably had 
 a grounding of tradition to work 
 upon. The distinction between 
 ' Kentish men ' and ' men of Kent ' 
 has been explained by making the 
 first, new settlers, and the latter, the 
 original tillers and owners of the 
 soil. It is perhaps worth suggesting 
 that the name 4 Castellum Cantu- 
 ariorwn,' given by Bede (H. E. iv. 
 5 ) to Rochester, may indicate the 
 existence of such a distinction at an 
 early period. Another explanation 
 makes the difference betweenKentish 
 men and men of Kent merely topo- 
 graphical ; the first being the dwell- 
 ers to the E. of the Medway, and 
 the latter the people to the W. of 
 that river. 
 
 In Swanscombe Wood, beyond the 
 ch., is Clapper-napped s Hole, a cavern 
 famous in the local folk-lore. Cockle- 
 shell Bank, near Green Street Green, 
 will supply the geologist with some 
 good specimens. 
 
 The Manor House (R. Stewart, Esq.) 
 is ancient and worth notice. 
 
 The Church of Swanscombe is of 
 very high interest, and claims (Gloss, 
 of Archit.) to be the only Saxon ex- 
 ample in the county. The portions 
 for which this claim is made are, — 
 some parts of the walls of the nave 
 and chancel— in which, however, 
 later windows have been inserted — 
 and the lower part of the tower, in 
 the S. wall of which is the mark of 
 a round-headed window, formed of 
 Roman bricks. At the angles is 
 some rough long-and-short work, re- 
 sembling the porch of Bishopstone 
 Church, Sussex. — (Hussey.) The in- 
 terior of the nave is Tr.-Norm., and 
 there are Norm, and E. E. windows 
 in the chancel. The nave and aisles 
 were restored by Sir Erasmus Wil- 
 son, who formerly lived here, and 
 died in 1884, whose handsome tomb 
 is at the E. end of the N. aisle. In the 
 S. aisle is a fine monument, with 
 recumbent figures to Sir Ralph Wel- 
 don, 'Chiefe Clarke of the Kitchin,' 
 to Queen Elizabeth, and his wife. 
 There are other good monuments 
 to members of the same family 011 
 the N. side of the S. aisle, and on 
 the S. side of the chancel. 
 
 The font is very remarkable. It 
 is of chalk — of Norman character — 
 with the mutilated remains of what 
 were probably intended as represen- 
 tations of the symbols of the Evan- 
 gelists. Part of the Lion (St. Mark), 
 is still very distinct. 
 
 The lectern is a double one, of 
 15th century make. The ancient 
 altar slab forms a part of the Church 
 pavement. The traces of Roman 
 brick, tufa, and ashlar stones in the 
 building have led to the belief that 
 if not pre-Norman it was of early 
 Norman date built with materials of 
 former buildings. 
 
 The ch. here was attached to the 
 manor, which soon after the Con- 
 quest was granted to the family of 
 Montchesnie, who long held it. In 
 it was one of the many shrines 
 which, lying on or not far from their 
 
 p 2 
 
190 
 
 EOUTE 6. — HIGH AM — COWLING. 
 
 road, pilgrims to Canterbury were 
 accustomed to visit. The shrine 
 here was that of St. Hildeferth, 
 whose aid was reputed to be in- 
 valuable in all cases of insanity or 
 4 melancholia/] 
 
 Very pleasant glimpses of the river 
 open 1. between Greenhithe and 
 
 23 \ m. Northfleet (Stat.) (Ete. 
 1). 2 m. further we reach 
 
 25 j m. Gravesend (Stat.) (Ete. 
 i\ at which place the rail leaves 
 the river-bank, and bends across 
 the country toward the Medway 
 at Strood, still following pretty 
 closely the old line of the Watling 
 Street. 
 
 From the next station, 
 
 30 J m. Higham (Stat.\ the 
 churches of Chalk and Shorne 
 may be visited, both of which are 
 interesting. They will best be taken, 
 however, from Bochester ; and the 
 excursion may be made to comprise 
 Gad's-hill, with its memories of 
 Falstaff, and Cobham Church and 
 Hall. (Ete. 3.) 
 
 The Church of Higham was attach- 
 ed to a Benedictine Nunnery, founded 
 here by King Stephen, of which his 
 daughter Mary became the first- 
 abbess. This nunnery is said to 
 have been first placed at Lillechurch, 
 about 1 m. S.E. from Higham, but 
 it was afterwards removed close to 
 the present church, and there are 
 still some fragments of its ancient 
 buildings in a house here called the 
 Abbey. An ancient causeway, pro- 
 bably of Eoman origin, leads from 
 here across the marshes to the 
 Thames, where was formerly a ferry, 
 beyond which the road proceeded in 
 a direct line toward Colchester (Ca- 
 mulodunum). 
 
 [From Gravesend a line of rly. 
 branches off to Port Victoria, in 
 the Isle of Grain (Ete. 1). This 
 traverses the flat, marshy peninsula 
 known as the Hundred of Hoo, 
 between the mouths of the Thames 
 and the Medway. At 6 m. from 
 
 Gravesend we reach the stat. of 
 Cliffe (in full Cliffe at Hoo). 
 
 ClifFe (2 m. N.E. from Higham , 
 on the edge of the chalk overhanging 
 the marshes, is a place of consider- 
 able interest to the archaeologist, 
 since it has been generally regarded 
 as the Cloveshoo (Cliffe at Hoo) at 
 which, during the 7th and two fol- 
 lowing cents., numerous councils of 
 the Saxon church were held ; the 
 place being first mentioned in 673, 
 when Abp. Theodore, in a council at 
 Hertford, arranged with his bishops 
 and clergy for an annual meeting 
 at Clofeshoch. (Bede, H. E. iv. 5.) 
 Others have placed Cloveshoo at 
 Abingdon in Berks, or at Clifton 
 Hoo in Bedfordshire. Cliffe was at 
 all events one of the earliest posses- 
 sions of Ch. Ch., Canterbury, and was 
 retained by that monastery until the 
 Dissolution. The Church, ded. to St. 
 Helen, is mainly Perp. and still ex- 
 hibits the miserere stalls found in 
 most of the churches on the Ch. Ch. 
 manors. There are some fragments 
 of stained glass. Brasses : Thos. 
 Faunce, wives, and children, 1609 ; 
 Bonham Faunce, wives and children. 
 1652. In the nave and N. aisle are 
 sepulchral slabs with short inscrip- 
 tions in Norm. French, perhaps of 
 the 14th cent. An ancient silvergilt 
 paten, enriched with blue and green 
 enamel, and having in the centre a 
 representation of the Trinity, is pre- 
 served among the communion-plate. 
 It is perhaps temp. Edw. III. There 
 are some frescoes, assigned to the 
 13th cent., in the transepts. The 
 rectory house is a very curious and 
 ancient building : the arches and 
 windows date from the 13th century. 
 
 About 1 m. E. of Cliffe is Cowling, 
 or Cooling, where, on the edge of the 
 marsh, are considerable remains of 
 a castle, formerly held by the Cob- 
 hams, and worth a visit. The castle 
 formed a square, and was surrounded 
 by a moat, beyond which was the 
 gatehouse, flanked by two round 
 towers, and machicolated. The 
 
ROUTE 6. — COWLING — CUXTON. 
 
 191 
 
 gatehouse remains nearly perfect, 
 and has still on the E. tower a 
 copper enamelled tablet with this 
 inscription : — 
 
 ' Knoweth that beth and shall be 
 That I am made in help of the contre ; 
 In knowing of whiche thing 
 This is chartre and witnessing.' 
 
 Beneath is the seal of arms of John 
 de Cobham, who (4th Rich. II.) ob- 
 tained licence to embattle his manor- 
 house here, which he entirely re- 
 built ; the white enamel and the 
 heraldic colouring are in very fair 
 preservation. The area of the castle 
 is now occupied by the substantial 
 modern establishment of a gentle- 
 man-farmer (W. Wood, Esq.) 
 
 Cowling had been in the hands 
 of the Cobhams since the reign of 
 Edw. L, and passed, through their 
 heiress, to Sir John Oldcastle, who 
 assumed in consequence the title of 
 Lord Cobham. It was in Cowling 
 Castle that Sir John, then the great 
 leader of the Lollards, shut himself 
 up when accused of heresy by Abp. 
 Arundel, whose apparitor showed 
 himself before the walls with his 
 citation to no purpose. Lady Cob- 
 ham retained Cowling after the exe- 
 cution of Sir John Oldcastle, and 
 her descendants possessed it until 
 about 1668. Sir Thomas Wyatt, 
 during his insurrection in the first 
 year of Queen Mary, attacked Cow- 
 ling with six pieces of cannon ; but 
 after doing considerable damage to 
 the castle, was compelled to march 
 on to Gravesend without taking it. 
 It was then held by Sir George 
 Brooke, Lord Cobham. 
 
 The Church of Cowling was given 
 to the Cathedral of Rochester about 
 960. Brass : Faith Brooke, daughter 
 of Sir J. Brooke, Lord Cobham. 
 1508.] 
 
 From Cliffe the line proceeds via, 
 Sharnal Street (10 m.) to Port Vic- 
 toria (12 m. >, whence there is steam 
 communication with Sheerness (Rte. 
 i3 N . From Sharnal Street may be 
 visited HigjL Halstow (church, 
 founded in 12th century, to which 
 
 date the font is assigned^, Hoo St. 
 Mary, Hoo All Saints, and Hoo 
 St. Werburgh. The Church of the 
 latter is large : chiefly Perp. : there 
 is good carving in the roof, and 
 several brasses, the earliest 1500. 
 
 Port Victoria is on the Isle of 
 Grain : now an island only in name. 
 St. James's ch., the parish ch. of the 
 island, has some Norman portions, 
 but is chiefly later : it formerly be- 
 longed to the Abbey at Minster in 
 Sheppey. 
 
 Steamers run from Port Victoria to 
 Sheerness in connexion with the 
 trains — and steamers to Flushing 
 occasionally run. A regular line of 
 steamers to a continental port is 
 contemplated. 
 
 Returning to the main line, after 
 passing through the long Higham 
 tunnel we reach 
 
 32! m. Strood — whence a line, 
 opened in 1892, runs direct to Ro- 
 chester and Chatham (Rte. 3^. It is 
 carried over the river Medway by a 
 bridge which cost £75,000. 
 
 The line now turns southward, 
 passing through Strood, and under 
 the L. C. and D. Rly , and for the 
 remaining distance to Maidstone 
 keeps near the 1. bank of the Med- 
 way. The old turnpike, which as- 
 cends high ground, and commands 
 some very picturesque views, runs 
 on the opposite side of the river. 
 The best point on this road is im- 
 mediately above Aylesford, where a 
 very extensive prospect toAvard the 
 W. is commanded. 
 
 Shortly after leaving the station at 
 Strood, the tourist should look back 
 toward Rochester, the view of which 
 from the railway is very good. E. 
 the lines of Fort Clarence (once a 
 military prison, and now a R. E. 
 storehouse) run up from the bank 
 of the river. At 
 
 35 \ m. Cuxton (Stat.) the Med- 
 way passes through a gorge in the 
 chalk hills, a continuation of the 
 North Downs, extending above 
 
192 
 
 ROUTE 6. — LUDDESDOWN — SNODLAND. 
 
 Reigate and Dorking into Hamp- 
 shire. From this point E. the range 
 crosses the county of Kent diagonally 
 — (it is sometimes called 1 the back- 
 bone of Kent') — and unites itself 
 with the broader mass of chalk be- 
 hind Folkestone. (Ete. 2.) 
 
 The Medway is navigable for craft 
 of 150 tons up to Maidstone, passing 
 through i lock ; and as high as Tun- 
 bridge for barges of 15 tons, through 
 13 locks. The banks of the river, 
 from' Kochester to Maidstone, were 
 thickly peopled during the Roman 
 period ; and ' there is scarcely a field 
 throughout its whole extent in which 
 we may not find some traces of 
 Roman buildings or of Roman burial- 
 places/ — Wright. As on the line of 
 the Watling- street, Roman bricks 
 and tiles are frequently found here, 
 worked into the walls of the neigh- 
 bouring churches. 
 
 The woods of Cobham (Rte. 3) are 
 seen N.W. from the Cuxton station. 
 [In the ch. of Luddesdown, among 
 the hills, 2 m. W., is an altar-tomb, 
 with a brass, temp. Hen. VI., pro- 
 bably intended for Sir James Monta- 
 cute, a natural son of the great Earl 
 of Salisbury, the i mirror of all 
 martial men/ killed at the siege of 
 Orleans. The manor of Luddesdown 
 was bequeathed by the Earl to this 
 James Montacute.] 
 
 Close under the chalk hills on the 
 opposite bank of the river are the 
 church and village of Wouldham, 
 where the Royal Engineers have 
 their pontoon establishment. The 
 greater part of the church, including 
 the tower, with its projecting turret, 
 characteristic of this part of Kent, 
 is late Perp., and was built by 
 Stephen Slegge, one of the chief 
 landowners here, temp. Hen. VI. 
 The nam is Norman of different dates, 
 worked upon an early Norman nu- 
 cleus of the usual type. (See Pad- 
 dlesworth, near Snodland.) Notice 
 the tufa quoin in the middle of the 
 W. wall exterior, the S. aisle, and 
 the tower. Farther down the river 
 
 is Starkey's Castle, dating from 
 the time of Edward IV., when it was 
 built by Humphrey Starkey, Chief 
 Baron of the Exchequer under 
 Richard III. Portions of the hall, 
 butteries, and a large chapel over 
 them, remain. 
 
 The next station reached is 
 Hailing, 36^ m. r the 'mark' or 
 settlement of the Saxon Hallingas 
 (according to Mr. Kemble), and a 
 very ancient possession of the see of 
 Rochester, whose bishops had a 
 palace here by the river-side, of 
 which, however, only scanty frag- 
 ments remain. Richard, Abp. 
 of Canterbury, the successor of 
 Becket, died here in 1184. Bishop 
 Hamo de Hethe (1322) repaired and 
 added to the palace, but it was 
 abandoned before the Reformation, 
 although the parish still belongs to 
 the see. The few walls remaining 
 are a short distance from the ch., 
 seen E. from the rail. In the nave 
 is a curious brass for Sylvester, wife 
 of William Dalyson and of William 
 Lambarde, who died in childbed, 
 1587. Portland cement is manu- 
 factured extensively here. 
 
 At Langridge, in this parish, a 
 manor formerly belonging to the 
 Bavents, is a group of Elizabethan 
 chimneys worth notice. 
 
 The scenery above Hailing is 
 pleasant. The hill-sides toward 
 Luddesdown are covered with wood, 
 through which runs the ancient 
 track called the 1 Pilgrims' Way,' 
 passing toward Canterbury (Rte. 3). 
 Shortly before reaching 
 
 38! m. Snodland (Stat.)* the rail 
 passes the hamlet of Holborough (Ho- 
 lanbeorge, the ' bury' with a cave 
 or hollow). The hill rising above this 
 village has apparently been fortified, 
 although the traces have been nearly 
 obliterated. Close below the top of 
 the hill are the remains of a large 
 Roman barrow, opened by Mr. 
 Wright in 1844, when it proved to 
 have been raised over the ashes of 
 
ROUTE 6. — PADDLESWORTH — A YLESFORD. 
 
 193 
 
 a funeral pile. Some long nails, pro- I 
 bably used for fastening the frame- j 
 work on which the body was laid, | 
 and part of a Roman fibula, were j 
 found in the thin bed of wood ashes 
 above which the barrow, probably 
 the monument of some person of t 
 rank, had been piled to a height of 
 20 ft. The view from this hill ex- | 
 tends far and wide over the valley of 
 Maidstone — as the district is called ! 
 lying between the chalk ranges on 
 either side of the river, and the 
 wooded heights S., which extend 
 from Maidstone above the Mailings 
 to Addington and Wrotham. 
 
 The Church of Snodland, close to 
 the station, contains portions from 
 E. E. to Perp., and is interesting. 
 There are some 15th cent, brasses. • 
 The windows are filled with modern I 
 stained glass, by Willement. There J 
 are some fragments of ancient glass 
 here of considerable value as ex- | 
 amples ; and the modern glass by 
 Mr. Nixon, in the E. window of the 
 chancel, boldly innovating, exhibits j 
 full-length portraits of Protestant 
 martyrs— Cranmer, Ridley, Latimer, 
 and, more daring still, of Anne 
 Askew. i As an example of a 19th 
 cent, design, adapted to a late Perp. 
 window, the work is of great merit/ 
 — C. Winston. The side-lancets (E. E.) 
 of the chancel are unusually narrow. 
 Roman bricks and tiles are worked 
 up in the walls. 
 
 Paddlesworth, 1 \ m. from Snod- 
 land, has a ruined church, now used 
 as a barn. It is a perfect example 
 of an early Norman ch. Square E. 
 end. No chancel arch in original 
 plan, but one added in 14th cent. 
 The windows are high up in the 
 walls ; and there is no tower. There 
 is cut and faced stone of tufa, the 
 usual early Norman material. 
 
 In Church-field, on the bank of the 
 river close below Snodland, are 
 traces of a Roman villa of consider- 
 able size. These have never been 
 thoroughly examined. ' Stone-grave 
 Field' is the name of an adjoining 
 meadow. 
 
 Across the river, and also seen 
 from the rail, is the Church of Bur- 
 ham, held by the Knights Hospital- 
 lers until the Dissolution. It has 
 Norman nave walls, with trans, 
 aisles added. These appear to have 
 been destroyed later, and arcades 
 filled in. Some early N. windows have 
 lately been discovered and opened 
 out. Side chapels were added to the 
 chancel in 13th cent. ; these were de- 
 stroyed and the ch. reduced to present 
 dimensions in Perp. times, when 
 the tower was added. The ch. is well 
 worth visiting. Here is a quarry 
 belonging to W. Lee, Esq., which 
 presents a good section of the lower 
 chalk, and is rich in fossil remains, 
 ' rivalling in this respect the quarries 
 near Lewes, Worthing, and Arundel, 
 in Sussex/ — Mantel!. An important 
 fossil turtle (Chelonia Benstedi^, por- 
 tions of a Raphiosaurus, and some 
 very interesting relics of Ptero- 
 dactyls, or flying lizards, are among 
 the most remarkable discoveries 
 made here. All are due to the re- 
 search of Mr. Bensted, the original 
 owner, whose 4 Iguanodon quarry ' 
 in the Kentish rag near Maidstone 
 (post), where the first great skeleton 
 of the monster was discovered, is 
 classic ground to the geologist. 
 
 From the Burham lime-works, of 
 which the smoking kilns are seen 
 along the river-side, the London 
 builders are mainly supplied. 
 
 The valley of the Medway here 
 becomes of considerable width, but 
 is scarcely picturesque. The view, 
 however, as the line reaches 
 
 40] m. A YLESFORD (Stat.), is 
 very striking. The church-tower and 
 red roofs of the old town look out 
 from ' clustering elm-trees of great 
 size and beauty ; and the chalk hills, 
 here dotted with wood, approach 
 near enough to form a good back- 
 ground. 
 
 Aylesford (Pop 2,719% the JEgeles- 
 ford of the Sax. Chron., so named 
 perhaps from the Latin- Welsh Eglwys, 
 a church — the i Church-ford,' or per- 
 haps equivalent to jEthds-ford or Ayle 
 
194 
 
 .ROUTE 6. — aylesford: friary. 
 
 (from aigle) eagle-ford — is fixed on, 
 in the Sax. Chron. as the scene (a. d. 
 455) of the first great battle between 
 Hengist and Vortigern, in which 
 Horsa fell. At Ilorsted (2 m. N.) a 
 heap of flint stones is pointed out as 
 his grave, which is, however, also 
 talked about as having been at Hor- 
 sham and Horsted in Sussex. The 
 archaeologist must decide for him- 
 self . whether he will accept the 
 literal interpretation of the Sax. 
 Chron., with Dr. Guest (Proceedings of 
 Archceol. Institute, 1849), or, with 
 Kemble and Mr. Wright, consider 
 the story of the battle as a mere 
 legend, founded on the existence of 
 a great British cemetery on the hills 
 above the town. It should bepointed 
 out, however, that there are strategic 
 reasons why a battle should be fought 
 at Aylesford. The Saxons approach- 
 ing from Canterbury would follow 
 the great Roman road to Rochester. 
 There they would find the bridge 
 broken, and, marching up the river, 
 would attempt the first practicable 
 ford, which is that of Aylesford. 
 There would be the battle. 
 
 Kemble considers the name of this 
 place, like Aylesbury and Ayles- 
 worth, to be compounded with that 
 of Eigil or Egil, the ancient hero 
 of the northern races, to whom, in 
 his capacity as a mighty archer, the 
 wide-spread story of William Tell 
 properly belongs — Sax. in Eng., i. 
 422. 
 
 The town of Aylesford consists of 
 one long street on the rt. bank of the 
 Medway, here crossed by a bridge of 
 considerable antiquity. The Church, 
 at the end of the street, is principally 
 Perp., and interesting. It contains 
 one brass, John and Sarah Cosyngton, 
 1426, and some later monuments for 
 the Colepepers of Preston Hall ; for 
 the Sedleys and Rycaut s, who held 
 the Friary here after the Dissolution ; 
 and for Sir John Banks, who suc- 
 ceeded them. Some parts of the 
 walls are Norman. There is a singu- 
 lar early tower, possibly built before 
 the ch. for defensive purposes. There 
 are some timber houses in the village, 
 
 which the antiquarian tourist must 
 be warned against ; for though they 
 look 1 antique/ they were really built 
 but a few years ago by an owner who 
 was an admirer of the old style. 
 
 The Friary (Capt. A. H. Carter), 
 the wall of which, skirting the 
 river, is seen from the station, was 
 founded, in 1240, by Richard Lord 
 Grey of Codnor, and disputes with 
 Newenden, on the borders of Sussex, 
 the honour of having been the first 
 house of Carmelites established in 
 England. The arrival of these friars 
 was, says Bale, foretold by Simon 
 Stock, a Kentish hermit, who had 
 lived in a hollow tree from his 12th 
 year, but who then ' quitted his oak, 
 and advanced forward to meet them, 
 as of whom, though he had no sight, 
 he had a vision before ; which is pro- 
 bably as true as that he was fed seven 
 years with manna in Mount Carmel.' 
 — Fuller. Stock was chosen general 
 of the Order, and died at Bordeaux 
 in 1265. In 1245 the first general 
 chapter of the Order throughout 
 Europe was held here at Aylesford. 
 
 The site of the Friary, after the 
 Dissolution, was granted to Sir 
 Thomas Wyatt of Allington, who 
 lost it, with his other lands, on his 
 rebellion in the first year of Queen 
 Mary. Elizabeth granted it to John 
 Sedley, of Southfleet, whose de- 
 scendants continued to reside here 
 until the reign of Charles I., when 
 the place was sold to Sir Peter Ry- 
 caut. After passing through many 
 other hands, it cam 3 to Heneage 
 Finch, created Earl of Aylesford in 
 1 7 14, whose representatives still pos- 
 sess it. Sir Charles Sedley, the fa- 
 mous wit of Charles II. 's days, was 
 born here ; and during the Rycaut 
 domination, Sir Paul Rycaut, dis- 
 tinguished as an Eastern traveller 
 during the latter part of the 17th 
 century. 
 
 Much of the ancient Friary was 
 retained in the existing dwelling- 
 house, although its successive occu- 
 piers have introduced their own 
 alterations and additions. Sir John 
 Banks, especially, toward the end 
 
ROUTE 6. — AYLESFORD 
 
 COUNTLESS STONES. 
 
 195 
 
 of the 17th cent., changed and inter- 
 fered much with the ancient arrange- 
 ments. From the terrace a good 
 view of the river may be had. 
 
 Some remains of a Norman keep, 
 with walls about 10 ft. high, are said 
 to exist in the town of Aylesford, and 
 may be sought out by the antiquary. 
 In the High-street is a hospital for 
 six poor, founded by John Sedley of 
 the Friars, temp. James I. ; rebuilt, 
 1842. 
 
 A large stone-ware pottery is 
 worked a short distance E. of the 
 town, on the bank of the river, where 
 is also one of the large paper-mills 
 which are not less frequent on the 
 Med way than on the Darenth. Their 
 tall chimneys, and the long lines of 
 smoking chalk-kilns under the hills, 
 are marked features of the river- 
 valley. 
 
 On the hill-side, above the town, 
 is Cosenion, now a farm-house, but 
 occupied by a family of the same 
 name from the reign of John to that 
 of Henry VIII. On this estate, to- 
 ward the coppices of Boxley Hill, 
 are some springs which impart a 
 bright carmine colour to whatever is 
 dipped in them. They are said not 
 to be chalybeate. 
 
 The best view over the valley of 
 the Medway is obtained from this 
 hill-side, immediately above the 
 celebrated cromlech called Kit's 
 Coity House*. The cromlech it- 
 self, by far the largest monument of 
 its class in this part of England, forms 
 a small chamber, open in front, and 
 consists of four blocks, three of which 
 are uprights, and the fourth laid 
 on them as a covering-stone. Of the 
 two side stones, one measures 7 ft. 
 by 7 J, and is 2 ft. thick, the weight 
 about 8} tons. The other is 8 ft. 
 by 8 1, weighing about 8 tons. The 
 capstone is 12 ft. by 9|, 2.\ ft. thick, 
 and weighs about io\ tons. The 
 sandstone of which they consist be- 
 longs to the geological formation 
 of the district, large boulders of it 
 
 occuring frequently in the tertiary 
 drift or loam found on the top of 
 the chalk hills. 
 
 Like others of its class, Kit's Coity 
 House was no doubt originally a 
 sepulchral monument, though the 
 legend which makes it the tomb of 
 the British chief Katigern, killed here 
 in a battle with the Saxons, must 
 probably be discarded. (Riffs Hill 
 on Hingstone Down, Cornwall, and 
 Kite's House on Dartmoor, are names 
 also given to ancient tombs ; perhaps 
 from the Celtic keel, a hollow. Kit's 
 Coity may thus be ked-coit — the 
 tomb in the wood (Brit.\ which 
 once spread over the hill-side, and 
 of which the venerable yews, which 
 the tourist should especially rem ark. 
 are relics.) It has been suggested 
 that the battle was traditionally fixed 
 here from ancient recollections con- 
 nected with the site, which recent 
 research has proved to be that of a 
 great British cemetery — the 1 Car- 
 nac' of Kent. The cromlech is the 
 centre of a group of monuments, 
 which there is great reason to be- 
 lieve was connected by a long stone 
 avenue with another group in the 
 parish of Addington (post, Excur- 
 sion (b) from Maidstone), a distance 
 of 7 m. The line of connecting 
 boulders has been traced at inter- 
 vals throughout the distance ; and 
 they even occur in the bed of the 
 river, where was an ancient ford. 
 Some of them are artificially placed : 
 others are sandstone boulders in 
 their natural site. 
 
 Of the monuments about Kit's 
 Coity house, remark especially the 
 Countless Stones, a group in the 
 middle of a field close below. 
 ' They are apparently the remains 
 of one of those more complicated 
 cromlechs, consisting of more than 
 one sepulchral chamber with an 
 alley of approach, which, in Brittany 
 and the Channel Islands, are popu- 
 larly known by the name of "Fairies' 
 Alleys." ' The belief that these 
 stones cannot be counted is one 
 constantly found connected with 
 similar remains, e. g. Stonehenge. 
 
1D6 
 
 ROUTE 6. — AYLESFORD — LONGSOLE. 
 
 In the hollow below is a slab called 
 the Coffin Stone. The brow of the 
 hill above the great cromlech ' is 
 covered with smaller monuments 
 of the same description, consisting 
 generally of groups of stones buried 
 partly in the ridge of the hill, but 
 evidently forming, or having formed, 
 small sepulchral chambers. Each 
 group is generally surrounded by a 
 circle of stones. At the bottom of 
 the bank, near the road, a little dis- 
 tance behind Kit's Coity House, is a 
 hollow in the chalk, with the heads 
 of large stones of the same descrip- 
 tion projecting out at each side, as 
 though they had formed an avenue 
 leading to an entrance in the side of 
 the hill/ — Wright. Many deposits 
 of British coins have been found in 
 this neighbourhood. A boulder (now 
 destroyed) on the top of the hill 
 was formerly known as the i White 
 Horse stone/ and pointed out as that 
 on which Hengist, after the death 
 of Horsa at Aylesford, was installed 
 £ first king of Kent/ 
 
 In addition to the cromlechs, a 
 series of very remarkable excava- 
 tions, also to all appearance sepul- 
 chral, extends for a considerable 
 distance along the brow of the chalk 
 hills on either side of the river. 
 These are large circular shafts, 
 descending like wells, and opening 
 at the bottom into one or more 
 chambers. (Comp. the excavations 
 at East Tilbury, Rte. i, and at Or ay ford 
 and Dartford, ante.) On the hill above 
 Kit's Coity House, however, and 
 within the limits of Aylesford Com- 
 mon, are a number of flat stones, 
 which cover the entrances to deep 
 pits filled to the top with flints. 
 These seem to be of the same cha- 
 racter with the open pits ; and it is 
 possible that the remains of the 
 British chieftain still rest in the 
 chamber below, the pit having been 
 filled up with flints after their depo- 
 sition. 1 Similar tombs have been 
 found in Etruria in the East/ — 
 Wright. A thorough examination of 
 these pits would perhaps reward the 
 
 archaeologist with some interesting 
 discoveries. 
 
 On the hill-side, close below, are 
 indications of a very extensive Ro- 
 man villa. Great quantities of broken 
 pottery have been found here ; and 
 Mr. Wright discovered traces of the 
 destruction of the building by fire — 
 the usual fate of most of the Roman 
 dwellings during the anarchy that 
 followed the departure of th legion- 
 aries. A Roman cemetery existed 
 a short distance N. of this villa. 
 
 Soon after leaving Aylesford, rt. 
 of the rail is seen Preston Hall (built 
 by E. L. Betts, the rly. contractor, 
 and now the property of H. A. 
 Brassey, Esq., M.P. ) a handsome 
 modern Tudor building, in digging 
 the foundations for which a quantity 
 of British silver coins were dis- 
 covered. The house stands in a 
 park ornamented with fine old trees; 
 and is surrounded by extensive gar- 
 dens and grounds well laid out and 
 planted. The original mansion here 
 was the residence of the Colepepers, 
 or Culpepers, from the reign of John 
 to the beginning of the last century. 
 A date on a barn of large propor- 
 tions, still remaining in excellent 
 preservation, which long passed for 
 1102, and occasioned much contro- 
 troversy, is no doubt 1502. The barn, 
 which must have witnessed not a few 
 agricultural changes, now serves for 
 the modern appliances of steam- 
 machinery, &c, required for an ex- 
 tensive farm. 
 
 At Ijongsole,onthe skirts of Mail- 
 ing Wood, rt., was an ancient free 
 chapel, now used as a barn, and called 
 the Hermitage. It is Dec. in character. 
 Nearly opposite, 1., the walls of 
 Allington Castle (post) are seen between 
 the trees. Wood-covered hills rise 
 close on either side of the river ; and 
 through broad-spreading green mea- 
 dows the train reaches, 
 
 42 1 m. Maidstone Barracks, and 
 44} m. Maidstone. 
 
 Maidstone Barracks were originally 
 
CHATHAM AND MAIDSTONE 
 
 Copyright y 1/4 iA ^ ^ £ ^ ^JMxles J-BartheiLamsw; EdioP 
 
 London: Edward Stanford, 12,13, & 14, Long Acre. W C. 
 
ROUTE G. — MAIDSTONE. 
 
 197 
 
 built as a depot for East Indian 
 Cavalry. They are now a depot for 
 the 50th and 97th (W. Kent) regi- 
 ments. 
 
 MAIDSTONE is the principal 
 town of West Kent, and the assize 
 town for the whole county, in the 
 most richly cultivated district of 
 which it is situated. Pop. 32,145. 
 
 Numerous Roman remains found 
 at Maidstone, especially in the parish 
 of St. Faith's, sufficiently prove the 
 existence of a station here, although 
 there may be some doubt whether it 
 represents, as has been usually sup- 
 posed, the Vagniacce of the Antonine 
 Itinerary. (See, however, a paper 
 by the Rev. Beale Poste, in the Arch. 
 Cant. vol. i. A Romano-British ceme- 
 tery was discovered, 1859 60, at 
 Westborough, a short distance N. of 
 All Saints' church. Arch. Cant, ii.) 
 At a later period the town seems to 
 have been known as 4 ad Madum,' 
 from the Latinised name of the river. 
 Its Saxon name Medwegston became 
 at last contracted to Meddestane and 
 Maidstone. It is still pronounced 
 4 Medstun ' in the vernacular of the 
 district. 
 
 The town stretches upwards from 
 the rt. bank of the river, and con- 
 sists of four principal streets, unit- 
 ing a little beyond the Town Hall. 
 Gabled houses and decorated fronts 
 give it a somewhat picturesque cha- 
 racter ; and the large cavalry barracks 
 contribute colour and movement. 
 There are three large breweries. 
 On Thursdays (market-days) the 
 tourist may make his observations 
 011 the i yeomen of Kent/ who, with 
 their wives and daughters, assemble 
 here in great numbers, and whose 
 substantial appointments indicate 
 very little decline from their ancient 
 prosperity : — 
 
 'A squire of Wales, a knight of Cales, 
 And a laird of the North Countrie — 
 A yeoman of Kent, with half a year's rent, 
 Will buy them all three ! ' 
 
 Maidstone is the most important 
 grain-market in the county, the 
 
 whole surrounding district being 
 rich in corn, and famous for its hop- 
 grounds, which here form what is 
 called the ' middle growth of Kent.' 
 A large oil-mill, and extensive paper- 
 mills (the latter among the most 
 important in the kingdom), are 
 established here on the bank of the 
 Medway, the traffic on which is very 
 considerable, the average tonnage 
 annually passing Allington Lock, 
 below the town, being 150,000 tons, 
 and the tolls nearly ,£3,000. Much 
 timber is carried down the Medway 
 in barges. 
 
 In spite of its antiquity, no very 
 important historical events are con- 
 nected with Maidstone. There was 
 a Saxon Castle here, which was 
 destroyed by the Danes. Sir Thomas 
 Wyatt of Allington, supported by 
 some of the principal landowners of 
 this part of Kent, here commenced 
 his rebellion in 1554 (1st of Queen 
 Mary\ His proclamation, published 
 at Maidstone 'on the market- day,' 
 in the place where the Isleys and 
 others of his abettors were after- 
 wards beheaded, set forth that the 
 i quarrel was taken in hand for the 
 defence of the realm from over-run- 
 ning by strangers' (the Spaniards — 
 the Queen's marriage was the osten- 
 sible cause of the rising\ 'Wheras 
 in very deed,' says Proctor, the 
 Sevenoaks schoolmaster, and his- 
 torian of the rebellion, ' hys only 
 and very matter was the continuance 
 of heresye ' ; for which end one of 
 his wealthy followers 1 offered to sell 
 all his spoons, and sup his pottage 
 with his mouth.' In the rising of 
 1648 Maidstone had its share. On 
 the night of June 1, Fairfax, with 
 10.000 men, stormed the town, then 
 held by about 2000 Royalists. These 
 lined the streets and houses, and, 
 after a struggle of five hours, re- 
 treated into the church, from which 
 they made terms for their surrender. 
 6 It was,' says Clarendon, ' a sharp 
 encounter, very bravely fought, with 
 the general's (Fairfax's) whole 
 strength ; and the veteran soldiers 
 confessed that they had never met 
 
198 
 
 ROUTE 6. — MAIDSTONE: CHURCH. 
 
 with the like desperate service during 
 the war/ ' Every street in the town,' 
 says Whitelock, ' was got by inches. ' 
 Since this period Maidstone has had 
 no history— a proof, in this case, 
 of prosperity and not of decline. 
 In the lower greensand, near Maid- 
 stone, have been discovered nume- 
 rous remains of the Iguanodon (a 
 huge lizard) the Pterodactyle (a gi- 
 gantic bat), and other prehistoric 
 animals. 
 
 From a very early period the 
 manor was attached to the see of 
 Canterbury ; but the archbishops 
 had no residence here until the 
 reign of John, when Wm. de Corn- 
 hill is said to have given his house 
 in the town to Archbishop Stephen 
 Langton. A later palace, built per- 
 haps on this site ; the Church ; and 
 the College adjoining, are now the 
 main objects of interest in Maid- 
 stone. 
 
 The Maidstone Grammar 
 School has been rebuilt on the 
 Tunbridge Road. 
 
 The very large and important 
 Church thoroughly restored in 
 1885-6 (it has been completely 
 re-roofed in perpendicular style, 
 under the direction of J. L. Pearson, 
 R.A.\ is Perp. throughout ; and is 
 to be assigned almost entirely to 
 Abp. Courtenay (1381-96), who, 
 after rebuilding the college, temp. 
 Rich. II., obtained the king's licence 
 to convert the parish church of St. 
 Mary to a collegiate church, dedi- 
 cating it afresh to All Saints. The 
 chancel still contains 28 stalls of 
 carved oak for the members of the 
 college ; among the ornaments of 
 which the arms of Abp. Courtenay 
 are frequently repeated, and in the 
 centre of the pavement is a slab 
 from which the brasses have been 
 removed, but still showing by their 
 matrices the figure of an archbishop. 
 This is thought to have been a 
 memorial of Abp. Courtenay, re- 
 builder of the ch., and, according to 
 the leiger-book of Ch. Ch., Canter- 
 bury, actually interred at Canter- 
 
 bury, where his monument still 
 exists adjoining that of the Black 
 Prince. There is, however, some 
 uncertainty as to the archbishop's 
 real place of interment. The ground 
 underneath the slab in Maidstone 
 ch. was examined in 1794, when a 
 skeleton was discovered at the depth 
 of 6 ft. ; but no ring or pastoral 
 staff was found ; and, from the per- 
 fect state of the teeth, the remains 
 are thought to have been those of 
 a younger man than Courtenay, 
 who, however, certainly died at 
 Maidstone. His own will directs 
 his burial in the churchyard here, 
 thereby adding a fresh difficulty. 
 It seems not unlikely that the heart 
 and intestines (as suggested by Mr. 
 Beresford Hope) may have been 
 interred here, and the body at Can- 
 terbury. The richly-painted chan- 
 cel screen should be noticed. Remark 
 also a slab on the pavement, from 
 which the brasses have been re- 
 moved, but which formerly covered 
 the altar-tomb of Lord Rivers of the 
 Mote, father of Elizabeth, queen of 
 Edward IY. The sedilia are fine and 
 elaborately ornamented ; but defaced 
 by intrusive 17th century monu- 
 ments of Astleys and Knatchbulls. 
 They were erected by John Wootton 
 (d. 141 7), first master of the college, 
 whose canopied tomb is at the back, 
 in the S. chancel. The brass has 
 disappeared, but in the arch above 
 the tomb is a very curious mural 
 painting, the subject of which is the 
 presentation of the deceased to the 
 Virgin by a figure perhaps represent- 
 ing the archangel Gabriel. On 
 either side are St. Catherine, and, 
 perhaps, St. Mary Magdalene ; and 
 beyond them a sainted bishop and 
 archbishop, both crowned with a 
 circular nimbus, and the latter 
 wearing the pall. They probably 
 represent Abp. Becket and Bp. 
 Richard de la Wych of Chichester, 
 the patron saints of the two cathe- 
 drals with which Wootton was con- 
 nected. (He was a canon of Chi- 
 chester.) Here isalso buried William 
 Grocyn, eleventh master, the friend 
 
ROUTE 6. MAIDSTONE: PALACE. 
 
 199 
 
 of Linacre and Erasmus, and one 
 of the first revivers of the study of 
 Greek at Oxford. A curious brass 
 in the S. chancel aisle, of the Beale 
 family, should be noticed ; and in 
 the Arundel chapel one for Rich. 
 Beeston, lady, and children. In the 
 vestry is a library, most of the books 
 in which were given by Dr. Bray — 
 a worthy divine and a friend of 
 Robert Nelson — in 1736. One vol. 
 of a folio Bible, however, and a 
 missal, both dating about 1400, may, 
 perhaps, have belonged to the library 
 of Abp. Courtenay's college. 
 
 The tower of Maidstone ch. was 
 originally crowned by a wooden 
 spire, 80 ft. high, which was de- 
 stroyed by lightning in 1730. 
 
 S. of the church, and stretching 
 down toward the river, is the Col- 
 lege of All Saints. In the year 1260 
 Archbishop Boniface founded the 
 hospital of Newark, at the entrance 
 of the town from Wrotham, for the 
 reception of poor travellers, and for 
 the special benefit of pilgrims 011 
 their way to the great shrine at 
 Canterbury. In 1395 this hospital 
 was incorporated by Abp. Courtenay 
 with the new college of secular 
 priests (a master and six chaplains), 
 founded by him, close to the parish 
 church, which was at this time made 
 collegiate. This college of All Saints 
 continued and flourished under the 
 patronage of the archbishops until 
 the first year of Edward VI., when 
 it was suppressed with similar 
 foundations. The annual value of 
 the college at this time was 212Z. 
 
 The remains at present belong to 
 the Earl of Romney. Considerable 
 alterations were made here in 1845. 
 The remains consist of a gateway 
 tower, a long range of rooms 
 between it and the river, terminated 
 by a second tower, parts of the 
 master's house, a ruined tower ad- 
 joining it, and a second or back 
 gateway. The gateway tower is 
 very fine ; and with the long adjoin- 
 ing range, originally the priests' 
 apartments, and the lower tower 
 
 above the river, is best seen from 
 the churchyard. The grey of the 
 Kentish stone contrasts well with 
 the ivy and variously-tinted foliage 
 waving and clustering about it. 1. of 
 the gateway was the college bake- 
 house — probably for charitable pur- 
 poses, since the preparation of the 
 brethren's 'manchets' scarcely re- 
 quired such ample space. From the 
 top of the tower there is a fine view 
 over the town and river. Above the 
 archway is a noble apartment, which 
 was perhaps never completed, since 
 the crown of the arch forms the 
 only flooring in the centre. In the 
 long range rt. of the gateway were' 
 the refectory and kitchen, and above 
 them a row of dormitorios. A cloister 
 toward the court was removed in 
 1845. At the top of the river tower, 
 which terminates this range, is a 
 room which has been called the 
 Treasury. 
 
 The master's house, occupying the 
 side of the court toward the river, 
 has been greatly changed and added 
 to, but still retains some part of its 
 ancient arrangements. The ruined 
 tower adjoining the back gateway 
 seems to have been connected with 
 it. The gateway which leads into 
 the open country lies between two 
 barns, themselves part of the ori- 
 ginal buildings. Detailed notices of 
 all these remains will be found in a 
 Histonj of the College of All Saints, Maid' 
 stone, by the Rev. Beale Poste. 
 (Whittaker, 1847.) 
 
 N. of the church is the ancient 
 archiepiscopal Palace, tolerably per- 
 fect. Abp. Ufford began to rebuild 
 it in 1348 ; the materials of the 
 ruined palace at Wrotham were 
 devoted to its completion by Abp. 
 Islip ; Abp. Courtenay added to it ; 
 and finally Abp. Morton (i486) en- 
 larged and adorned it. The existing 
 building (with the exception of the 
 E. front, which seems to be Eliza- 
 bethan) is entirely Perp., and be- 
 longs to the time when, after the 
 establishment of the college here, 
 Maidstone became one of the most 
 
200 ROUTE 6. MAIDSTONE: PUBLIC MUSEUM. 
 
 favourite among the 16 archiepis- 
 copal palaces. The palace was 
 granted by Q. Elizabeth to Sir John 
 Astley, passed from him to Sir Jacob 
 Astley, Charles I.'s Baron of Reading 
 (whose monument exists in the ch. ), 
 and was finally alienated by this 
 family to the first Lord Romney. 
 The late Earl sold it to P. Hoare. 
 Esq., and it was ultimately pur- 
 chased by public subscription for the 
 town, as a memorial of the Queen's 
 Jubilee, 1887. The old bridge was 
 replaced in 1879 by the present 
 stone one, on three arches. It cost 
 55,000?., and was designed by Sir J. 
 Bazalgette. 
 
 Of higher interest than the palace 
 itself is a long range of outbuilding 
 on the opposite side of the road, 
 which seems to have originally 
 formed part of the offices. It is now 
 used for stables and tan-stores ; but 
 the exterior has been little changed. 
 Note the external stair of stone, 
 usual in the court buildings attached 
 to houses of this period (late Dec). 
 The doors are slightly pointed. The 
 windows between the buttresses on 
 the W. side are slightly pointed in 
 the lower range, and square-headed 
 above. The whole building deserves 
 notice, and is probably of earlier 
 date than any portion of the palace 
 itself. A small ancient building at 
 the end of Mill-street, immediately 
 at the gate turning down to the 
 palace, is yet more remarkable, and 
 is, perhaps, of the 14th cent. Its 
 history is altogether unknown. 
 
 The tourist should descend from 
 the W. end of the churchyard to the 
 river-bank below, where he will 
 obtain good views of the college, 
 the church, and the palace, together 
 forming a very picturesque group. 
 Further down is the bridge across 
 the Med way, and beyond the river 
 stretch away the Park Meadows, so 
 called from a park or t pleasaunce ' 
 which anciently extended here in 
 front of the palace and hospital. 
 
 The chief interest of Maidstone 
 is concentrated at this corner. The 
 
 chapel of Newark Hospital, 
 founded by Abp. Boniface, at the 
 S.W. entrance of the town, has, 
 after long desecration, been con- 
 verted into the district ch. of St. 
 Peter, but with great alterations. 
 The Newark Hospital was finally 
 suppressed, and the annual income, 
 £159, given to the college. Holy 
 Trinity ch. dates from 18 19. Other 
 churches have been erected in the 
 town. 
 
 Of old houses in the town there 
 are several. In St. Faith's -street is 
 Chillington House, ancient and in- 
 teresting. The manor, of which it 
 was the 'aula' or court-house, be- 
 longed to the Cobhams until the 
 reign of Edw. III., when it passed to 
 the Maplesdens, whose representat ive 
 forfeited it by joining Sir Thomas 
 Wyatt's rising. It has since gone 
 through many hands ; and now, 
 serves as a Public Museum. The 
 house itself belongs to the early part of 
 the 1 6th century, and is worth a visit, 
 the timbered Manor House of Far- 
 leigh having been transferred hither. 
 Here are some tolerable specimens 
 of the birds and fossils of the neigh- 
 bourhood, and an interesting collec- 
 tion of local Roman antiquities, also 
 of works of art, including paint- 
 ings, enamels, china, needlework, 
 &c. Here also are the collections of 
 the Kent Archaeological Society, and 
 the head-quarters of that institu- 
 tion, founded in 1858 by an anti- 
 quary as sound as he was industrious, 
 the late Rev. Lambert B. Larking. 
 A fine art gallery has lately been 
 added, by the munificence of a 
 townsman, Mr. S. Bentlif, and the 
 Brenchley Public Gardens abut on 
 the buildings. 
 
 On the Rochester road is the 
 County Gaol, capable of holding 450 
 prisoners, built in 18 18, at a cost of 
 i8o,oooL The front contains the 
 assize courts. The Cavalry Barracks, 
 with accommodation for about 400 
 men, are below on the river-side. 
 
ROUTE G. — MAIDSTONE 
 
 ! — ALLINGTON CASTLE. 201 
 
 Here too are the Maidstone paper- 
 mills, now Balston's factory, and, 
 as well as the Turkey-mill, a little 
 outside the town on the Ashford 
 road, formerly known as Whatman's. 
 Drawing-papers of the best quality 
 are manufactured here ; and both 
 mills, the operations of which are 
 simple and easily comprehended, 
 employ a large number of hands. 
 
 A general view of Maidstone is 
 not easily gained, owing to the very 
 gradual rise of the hills on either 
 side of the valley. The ch. and 
 group of old buildings about it are 
 well seen from the College hop- 
 ground, through which a path leads 
 to Tovil, a hamlet on the rt. bank 
 of the river. The sunset effect from 
 this point is very striking, and 
 worth seeking by the artist. In 
 Tovil is a good modern E. E. ch. 
 dedicated to St. Stephen (architect, 
 Whichcord, of Maidstone). Adjoin- 
 ing are large oil-cake and paper 
 mills. 
 
 About i m. E. of the town is The 
 Mote (Earl of Romney), built toward 
 the end of the last century, and not 
 too ornamental. The name is said 
 to indicate an ancient gathering- 
 place (A.-S. mot), and to have no 
 reference to the ancient moat whic h 
 once surrounded the house. The 
 park, of 600 acres, is fine, and con- 
 tains some grand old oaks and 
 beeches. A canal, crossed by a 
 bridge, runs in front of the house. 
 Before the reign of Henry III. the 
 Leybornes were settled here. Early 
 in that of Richard II. the Mote had 
 passed to the Wydevilles or Wood- 
 villes, afterwards Lords Rivers. 
 Richard de Wydeville being created 
 by Henry VI. (1448) Lord Rivers, 
 Grafton, and De la Mote. His 
 daughter Elizabeth became the 
 Queen of Edward IV. After some 
 changes, the Mote passed to the 
 Wyatts of Allington, the Caesars, 
 and the Tuftons, from whom, about 
 1690, it came to the Marshams, then 
 of Whorne's Place, in the parish of 
 
 Cuxton. In 1716 Sir Robert Mar- 
 sham was created Lord Romney ; 
 and his descendants have continued 
 to reside at the Mote. The house 
 was rebuilt by the third Lord Rom- 
 ney about 1795. A 'pavilion' 
 erected near the site of the old 
 house marks the spot on which a 
 dinner was given by the third Lord 
 Romney, in the presence of George 
 III., to the Kentish yeomanry. The 
 guests at this dinner (one of the 
 largest on record) exceeded 3000. 
 
 Nearly opposite the Mote is V in- 
 ters Park (J. Whatman, Esq., M.P. . 
 
 Quarries of the hard calcareous 
 sandstone, known as 1 Kentish rag ' 
 occurring in the Lower Greensand 
 formation (see post, Boughton Mon- 
 chelsea), are largely worked near 
 the town. In one of these, now 
 known as the 'Iguanodon Quarry,' 
 the first important Iguanodon skele- 
 ton was discovered by Mr. Bensted. 
 the proprietor. Fragments had al- 
 ready been found by Dr. ManUll in 
 Tilgate Forest ; but the Maidstone 
 specimen first enabled palaeontolo- 
 gists to ascertain the size of the 
 monster with accuracy. Masses of 
 water- worn wood, cones of a species 
 of abies (Abies Bemtedi), and leaves 
 of a plant resembling a yucca 
 (Dracama Benstedi), have also been 
 found in this quarry, to which 
 access is readily afforded by the 
 proprietor. 
 
 Railways : to Rochester, Strood, 
 and London, as above ; to Paddock 
 Wood and Tonbridge (Route 2a) to 
 Sevenoaks, Swan ley, and London ; 
 and to Charing and Ashford. A 
 line to Faversham is in contempla- 
 tion. 
 
 The Excursions from Maidstone 
 are numerous and full of interest. 
 
 (a) The chief points in the imme- 
 diate neighbourhood may be visited 
 in a long walk — to Allington 
 Castle, 1 J- m. ; thence to Boxley 
 
202 
 
 EOUTE 6. — ALLINGTON. 
 
 Abbey and Boxleij, 2} m. ; return- 
 ing to the town across Pennenden 
 Heath. The round will be about 
 7 1 m - 
 
 A broad towing-path leads along 
 the rt. bank of the river, here es- 
 sentially the ' Medway smooth ' of 
 Milton. Low, steep banks of wood 
 rise on the opposite side, and again 
 very picturesquely on the rt. bank, 
 fronting Allington, where the river 
 curves round the castle meadows. 
 The scene here is striking : the red 
 and ochred sails of the barges, con- 
 stantly passing, ' solemn as Barons 
 of the Exchequer ' (Walpole), contrast 
 finely with the bright colour of the 
 hanging wood. The castle is on the 
 1. bank ; but immediately opposite 
 is a small inn, the 'Malta/ where 
 there is a ferry-boat. 
 
 Allington*, a settlement of the 
 Saxon iElingas (Kemble : the name 
 occurs in many other counties), was 
 granted by the Conqueror to William 
 de Warrenne, who is said to have 
 built a castle here. It then passed, 
 through a family of the same name 
 (Allington), to Sir Stephen de Pen- 
 chester, the rebuilder of some part 
 of Penshurst, who, toward the end 
 of Henry III.'s reign, obtained li- 
 cence to fortify and embattle his 
 castle here. From him, through the 
 Cobhams and Brents, it came, early 
 in the reign of Henry VII., to Sir 
 Henry Wyatt, whom a vague tradi- 
 tion asserts to have been preserved 
 by a cat whilst a prisoner in the 
 Tower of London under Richard III. 
 The cat, it is said, used to bring him 
 a pigeon every day from a neighbour- 
 ing dovecot. 'Sir Henry, in his 
 prosperity/ according to a curious 
 notice of him quoted by Mr. Bell 
 from a MS. formerly belonging to 
 the Wyatt s, 4 for this would ever 
 make much of cats, as other men 
 will of spaniels or hounds ; and per- 
 haps you shall not find his picture 
 anywhere but, like Sir Christopher 
 Hatton with his dog, with a cat 
 beside him/ (A cat, also said to 
 have been his companion in the 
 
 Tower, is represented in the portrait 
 of the Earl of Southampton, Shak- 
 speare's patron, now at Welbeck.) 
 Lady Wyatt, wife of Sir Henry, 
 seems to have been a heroine of 
 unusual determination. 1 Reports 
 reaching her, during Sir Henry s 
 absence, that the neighbouring ab- 
 bot of Boxley was in the habit of 
 privately visiting her establishment 
 for purposes not very creditable to 
 his sanctity, she placed some of her 
 retainers on the watch ; and having 
 obtained satisfactory proof of his 
 delinquencies, she ordered him to 
 be seized, carried through the gate- 
 house, and put into the stocks in 
 front of the castle. This indignity, 
 inflicted on a priest, was not to be 
 quietly endured at a time when the 
 spiritual licence was supposed to 
 cover all scandals ; and the abbot 
 accordingly appealed for redress to 
 the Privy Council. Sir Henry's 
 answer to the charge shows of what 
 metal the Wyatts were formed. He 
 turned the whole affair into a jest, 
 and frankly told the Council that, if 
 any of their lordships had angered 
 his wife in her own house, as the 
 abbot had done, he verily believed 
 she would have served them in the 
 same manner.' 
 
 Of these parents was born here, 
 in 1503, Sir Thomas Wyatt, the poet, 
 the 4 delight of the muses and of 
 mankind/ who, says Fuller, truly 
 answered his anagram, ' Wiat, a wit. 1 
 During his early youth < he brought 
 up a lion's whelp and an Irish grey- 
 hound at the castle, and made play- 
 mates of them, so that they used to 
 wait at the gate or hall door for his 
 coming home, and testify their de- 
 light at his return by the most vio- 
 lent demonstrations. At last, as the 
 lion's whelp grew into courage and 
 heat, these testimonies of attach- 
 ment became rather dangerous ; and 
 on one occasion he ran roaring at 
 his young master, and, flying fiercely 
 into his bosom, must have inevitably 
 destroyed him but for the grey- 
 hound, who, leaping on his back, 
 
ROUTE 6. — allington: castle. 
 
 203 
 
 pulled him down, when Wyatt 
 coolly drew out his rapier and slew 
 the whelp on the spot. The story 
 being afterwards repeated to Henry 
 VIII., he observed/' Oh, he can tame 
 lions ! " ' 
 
 Notwithstanding the hints of an 
 attachment to Anne Boleyn, Sir 
 Thomas became one of Henry VIII.'s 
 especial favourites, and made a ' fair 
 seat' of the castle here, where he 
 spent his time during his occasional 
 retirements from public affairs. A 
 satire, addressed to his friend John 
 Poins, gives us a pleasant picture of 
 his life at Allington : — 
 
 , * This maketh me at home to hunt and hawk 
 And in foul weather at my book to sit ; 
 In frost and snow then with my bow to 
 stalk ; 
 
 No man doth mark whereso I ride or go, 
 
 In lusty leas at liberty I walk ; 
 
 And of these news I feel nor weal nor woe. 
 
 I am not now in France to judge the v\ ine ; 
 
 But I am here in Kent and Christendom 
 Among the Muses, where I read and 
 rhyme ; 
 
 Where if thou list, mine own John Poins, 
 to come, 
 
 Thou shalt be judge how I do spend my 
 time.' 
 
 For the true position of Wyatt as a 
 reformer of English poetry, see Mr. 
 Bell's excellent Life (prefixed to his 
 annotated edition of the poems). 
 Wyatt has the credit of having made 
 the first metrical version in English 
 of some part of the Psalms (about 
 1541). His portrait has been most 
 effectively drawn by his friend and 
 fellow poet Surrey : ' Rarely have so 
 many noble qualities been collected 
 into a single character — virtue, wis- 
 dom, beauty, strength, and courage/ 
 It was the poet's son who raised 
 the Kentish rebellion in the first 
 year of Queen Mary (i554\ and who, 
 after the march to London and the 
 desertion of his followers, was made 
 prisoner and beheaded on Tower 
 Hill. His manors were confiscated, 
 and Allington was afterwards 
 granted by Elizabeth to Sir John 
 Astley, in whose family it continued 
 until it passed to the first Lord 
 [Kent} 
 
 Romney in 1720. The present Earl 
 is now the proprietor. 
 
 Allington Castle was allowed to 
 fall to ruin by Sir John Astley after 
 he had disparked the surrounding 
 enclosures. The existing remains 
 are considerable, and well deserve a 
 visit. A broad moat, fed from the 
 Medway, nearly encircles the castle, 
 which stands on unusually low 
 ground, although commanding the 
 river passage at an important point. 
 The walls form a long parallelogram, 
 with circular towers projecting at 
 intervals. Within, the castle is di- 
 vided into two distinct courts, of 
 which that to the N. is perhaps the 
 most recent. In this is the main 
 entrance gateway, flanked by two 
 small circular towers, and still 
 retaining the portcullis - groove. 
 Above the gate was an apartment of 
 some importance, as usual in late 
 Perp. castles (comp. Hever, Rte. 2). 
 Remark, in entering, the square 
 window - hatch, opening into the 
 guard-room W. of the gateway. In 
 this court, on the side fronting the 
 Medway, seem to have been the hall 
 and chapel. A range of low building, 
 with a good arched entrance, separ- 
 ates this from the inner court. The 
 greater part of the first court may 
 have been the work of the two 
 Wyatts. In the S.W. angle of the 
 second, or inner court, is a lofty cir- 
 cular tower, apparently of older date, 
 and serving as the castle-keep. This 
 court is usually the first entered in 
 approaching from the river, a door 
 having been pierced through one of 
 the flanking-towers, which opens 
 into a vast chimney, perhaps that of 
 the ancient kitchen. On the Med- 
 way side is the farm-house, built 
 out of fragments of the castle, and 
 picturesque with its peaked roofs 
 and wide porches. Ivy and elder- 
 trees, hanging about the walls and 
 towers, contribute to the satisfaction 
 of the sketcher, who will find his 
 best points of view on the N. and 
 N.W. sides. The irregular mounds 
 between the castle and the river per- 
 haps belong to the 'fair gardens' 
 
 Q 
 
204 
 
 ROUTE 6. — ALLINGTON — BOXLEY ABBEY. 
 
 created here by Wyatt the poet, and 
 may be remains of artificial hillocks, 
 with winding paths, such as were 
 then in favour. 
 
 Allington Church, close beyond 
 the castle, is a small Dec. building, 
 of some interest, but without monu- 
 ments. Sir Thomas Wyatt, the poet, 
 was buried at Sherborne, Dorset, 
 where he died on his way into 
 Cornwall. 
 
 Recrossing the river, the Rochester 
 road may be followed through the 
 hamlet of Sandling : rt. is Sandling 
 Place (S. Mercer, Esq.), and behind 
 it Park House (E. L. Lushington, 
 Esq.). Rich and extensive views are 
 commanded from the high ground 
 at its back. The opening of Tenny- 
 son's i Princess ' is an embellished 
 account of a mechanics' institute 
 fete held in this park in 1842. The 
 poet was then living at Boxley. The 
 tourist may find his way along the 
 bank of a stream which falls into 
 the Medway a short distance below 
 Allington Castle, which will lead 
 him to the entrance of Boxley 
 Abbey (A. F. Style, Esq.), beyond 
 Sandling. 
 
 The site of the abbey, as in most 
 Cistercian foundations, is low and 
 flat, about 1 m. from the river,; the 
 chalk hills rise at some distance be- 
 hind it. It was founded in 11 46 by 
 William of Ypres, Earl of Kent, who 
 closed his own life as a monk at 
 Laon. A colony of Cistercians was 
 brought hither from Clairvaux, of 
 which great house Boxley claimed 
 accordingly to be 1 filia propria/ 
 Richard I. granted the manor of 
 Boxley to the abbey, the revenue of 
 which, at the Dissolution, was 218L, 
 arising from lands scattered over 
 Kent and Surrey. Much of its an- 
 cient rental, however, seems to have 
 been sacrificed for large sums of 
 money paid in hand. ' There hath 
 grown no decay by this abbot/ wrote 
 Henry VIII/s commissioner, 'that 
 we can learn ; but surely his prede- 
 cessors pleasured much in odoriferous 
 
 savours, as it should seem by their 
 converting the rents of the monas- 
 tery that were wont to be paid in 
 corn and grain into gillyflowers and 
 roses/ No important historical 
 events are connected with Boxley ; 
 but the abbey church rejoiced in 
 two remarkable 1 sotelties/ which 
 procured for the White Monks here 
 no small celebrity and very satisfac- 
 tory profits. The first— like the boar's 
 head and enchanted mantle brought 
 by the elfin page to the court of 
 King Arthur, of which only Sir Cra- 
 dock and Sir Cradock's wife could 
 stand the test — was a touchstone of 
 chastity, in the shape of a small 
 image of St. Rumbald, only to be 
 lifted by those who had never sinned 
 in thought or in deed. ' Such who 
 paid the priest well/ says plain- 
 spoken old Fuller, ' might easily re- 
 move it, whilst others might tug at 
 it to no purpose. It was fastened 
 by a wooden pin moved from behind, 
 and many 1 chaste virgins and wives 
 went away with blushing faces, 
 whilst others came off with more 
 credit, because with more coin — 
 though with less chastity/ 
 
 The second wonder of Boxley was 
 the famous 'Rood of Grace/ a mi- 
 raculous crucifix, to which crowds of 
 pilgrims resorted from every part of 
 the country. It was rudely disturbed 
 by Henry VIII/s commissioners, 
 who found therein ' certayn ingynes 
 of olde wyer, wyth olde roton 
 stykkes in the backe of the same, 
 that did cause the eies to move and 
 stere in the hede thereof lyke unto 
 a ly velye thinge ; and also the nether 
 lippe in lyke wise to move as though 
 it shulde speke/ The image was 
 carried into Maidstone on a market- 
 day, and 1 in the cheff of the market- 
 time* exhibited to the people, who 
 'had the false, crafty, and sotell 
 handelynge thereof in wonder ous 
 detestacion and hatred / It was then 
 carried to London, and ' solemnly 
 broken to pieces' at Paul's Cross 
 (1538). 
 
 Of the church in which the 111- 
 
KOUTE 6. — BOXLEY — PENNENDEN HEATH. 205 
 
 genious Cistercians conducted these 
 'sotell' exhibitions, nothing now 
 remains but the foundations, which 
 are to be traced in the garden of the 
 modern Boxley Abbey. A fragment 
 of the Abbey gatehouse now serves 
 as the entry to a brewery, but be- 
 yond this there is nothing but the 
 recollections connected with the site 
 to attract the visitor. 
 
 The village of Boxley (in Domes- 
 day Boseleu, so called from the 
 quantity of box-trees that here grow 
 in tufts in the woods, and along the 
 sides of the chalk hills) lies about 
 i m. E. from the abbey, and on 
 much higher ground. At the W. 
 entrance to the church is a large 
 porch, commonly called the Galilee. 
 Only two other instances, in parish 
 churches, are said to exist. It now 
 forms an entrance to the church ; it 
 is said to have formerly been used 
 as a school. Until the end of Richard 
 II.'s reign Boxley church belonged 
 to the priory of Rochester. It then 
 passed to Boxley Abbey, but was 
 restored to the chapter of Rochester 
 after the Dissolution. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are Park 
 House, the residence of Major Best ; 
 and Vinters, the seat of Mr. What- 
 man. 
 
 [The Church of Detling (i| m. 
 S.E. from Boxley ch.) lies close 
 under the hills, and, although itself 
 poor, contains a very fine Dec. lec- 
 tern, which well deserves attention. 
 In the churchyard is a large and 
 well-designed stone cross, also per- 
 haps Dec. The parish was long the 
 property of a family of the same 
 name.] 
 
 Pennenden Heath, across which 
 the pedestrian may return from Box- 
 ley to Maidstone, is still, as at the 
 time of the Conquest, and long be- 
 fore, the great county gathering-place 
 — the scene of the Saxon 'shyrege- 
 mot' and 'wapentakes,' and now of 
 all important county meetings. It 
 is worth notice that the Pinnedenna 
 
 (Pennenden) of Domesday has now 
 become generally corrupted to Pick' 
 enden. Lambarde's derivation of the 
 word from the Saxon pinian, to 
 punish, seems hardly borne out, al- 
 though it was long the place of exe- 
 cution, and the gallows remained 
 standing on a part of the heath 
 above Maidstone until 1835. (Comp. 
 Kemble's remarks, Sax. in Eng. i. 47, 
 on the position of the Sax. 1 cwealm- 
 stow,' or place of execution, in the 
 mark, or forest boundary, of the 
 primitive settlement.) The various 
 Kentish ' dens ' were all in this 
 mark. (See Rte. 11 — Tenterden.) 
 The views from the heath, in spite 
 of its high ground, are not extensive. 
 Its position, nearly in the centre of 
 the county, probably led to its selec- 
 tion as the gathering-place for the 
 Saxons of Kent. If, as is very pos- 
 sible, it was used for the same 
 purpose by the Kentish Belgae, its 
 vicinity to the great cemetery on 
 Boxley and Aylesford hills may not 
 have been accidental. 
 
 The* most famous meeting on Pen- 
 nenden Heath, and one that well 
 deserves illustration at the hands 
 of an historical painter, occurred in 
 1076, when Abp. Lanfranc pleaded 
 the cause of his church here against 
 Odo of Bayeux, Earl of Kent, who 
 retained in his hands numerous 
 manors belonging to the see of Can- 
 terbury. Geoffrey, Bp. of Coutances, 
 sat as the king's representative ; 
 Lanfranc and Odo were both present 
 in person, as were many others of 
 the Kentish nobles ; but the most 
 striking figure was that of Agelric, 
 Bp. of Chichester, of great renown 
 for his knowledge of old Saxon law, 
 who, on account of his great age, 
 was brought here in a 1 quadriga ' 
 or waggon drawn by oxen. The 
 trial lasted three days, and the arch- 
 bishop recovered the greater part of 
 his manors. In 1829 there was a 
 great meeting here on the subject of 
 the Roman Catholic claims. Mr. 
 Sheil was to have been orator-in- 
 chief, but he either broke down, or 
 was hooted down, notwithstanding 
 q 2 
 
206 
 
 EOUTE 6. — MALLING : ABBEY. 
 
 which his speech appeared in next 
 day's London papers with inserted 
 4 cheers/ &c. 
 
 The County Hall, on the heath, 
 a very plain stone building with 
 veranda, was erected about 1830. 
 A tolerable view of Maidstone is 
 »gained in descending the hill toward 
 the town. 
 
 Several places of interest may be 
 visited by making an excursion on 
 the L.C.D. line to Mailing and 
 Seven oaks. Passing Barming 
 (see Ete. 2a) with its large Lunatic 
 Asylum we reach Mailing (7 m.), 
 the station lying between, E. 
 Mailing and W. or Town Mai- 
 ling. Turning E. from the station 
 we reach E. Mailing. The Church 
 is of much interest. It has portions 
 from E. E. to late Perp. Much 
 coloured glass remains, especially in 
 a Dec. chapel at E. end of N. aisle, 
 the ceiling of which should be re- 
 marked ; the bosses at the intersec- 
 tions retain their gilding. The 
 lower part of the tower is E. E., 
 the upper Perp. Brasses : Thos. Selby 
 and Isodia his wife, 1479 ; K. Adams, 
 vicar, 1522. The ch. was given by 
 Abp. Anselm to the nunnery of W. 
 Mailing. 
 
 Bradbourne Park (Miss Twisden), 
 adjoining the ch., has been for the 
 last two centuries in the hands of 
 the Twisdens. A younger brother 
 of the learned Sir Eoger of East 
 Peckham first settled here, and was 
 himself created a baronet by Charles 
 II. The Twisden family is one of 
 the most ancient of Kent. The 
 park was pleasant and well wooded, 
 but was converted into hop-gardens 
 and arable fields during a temporary 
 alienation from the Twisdens, to 
 whom it has now returned. On the 
 stream that runs through it are some 
 paper-mills, the staple manufacture 
 of this district. Ditton, between E. 
 Mailing and Aylesford has some good 
 stained glass. 
 
 From E. Mailing, through lanes S. 
 of the main road (or W. if we turn 
 from the station) West or Town 
 Mailing is reached. Both Mailings 
 indicate the site of a primitive 
 Saxon mark— that of the Mallingas. 
 (Kemble.) A Benedictine nunnery 
 was founded here in 1090 by Bp. 
 Gundulf of Eochester, which was 
 greatly enriched by subsequent bene- 
 factions. Ten pounds of wax and 
 one wild boar from the oak woods 
 that surrounded the convent were 
 annually sent by the abbess to the 
 Bp. of Eochester, as an acknowledg- 
 ment of her subjection to the see. 
 At the Dissolution Mailing Abbey 
 was granted to Abp. Cranmer, and 
 subsequently became the property 
 of the Honywoods. It is now the 
 residence of the Akers family, repre- 
 sented by Mrs. Akers. 
 
 The remains of Mailing Abbey 
 are full of interest and well deserve 
 a visit. They contain portions from 
 Norm, to late Perp. The principal 
 Norm, fragment is the W. front of 
 the abbey ch., of which the slender 
 turrets and ornamented pilasters so 
 greatly resemble the W. front of 
 Eochester Cathedral as to leave little 
 doubt that both are the work of the 
 same designer. The lower part of 
 the front is early Norm., and part of 
 Gundulf's foundation. The upper 
 part is later Norm. Eochester W. front 
 is a later Norm, development of an 
 early Norm, church : hence the simi- 
 larity. Early Norm, herring-bone 
 masonry is well seen in the clois- 
 ters, and in the church wall. The 
 cloisters, now included in the 
 modern residence, are late E. E., 
 with broad trefoiled arches, very 
 good and interesting, and the nuns' 
 chapter-house is used as the kitchen 
 and scullery. The old kitchen, 
 which is of large size, is in part 
 paved with slabs once containing 
 monumental brasses. The fronting 
 of the great gateway, which is en- 
 tire, is Perp., 1 but examination will 
 show this work to be only a facing/ 
 — Hussey. To this gatehouse a chapel 
 
ROUTE 6. — MALLING — ADDINGTON. 
 
 207 
 
 was attached, which has been re- 
 stored, and is again used. It has 
 Dec. windows, but the S. door is 
 Perp. 
 
 At St. Leonard's, a short dis- 
 tance S. of the abbey, was a cell 
 with a chapel, the site of which is 
 uncertain. A large square tower, 
 of considerable interest, still remains 
 here, which has been pronounced a 
 Norman keep (Hussey). There is 
 strong reason for believing it to be 
 early Norm., and the work of Gun- 
 dulf. See a paper on the subject 
 by J. H. Parker, in the Builder. 
 A fragment of wall has been traced, 
 running E., below the tower. The 
 manor, at the time of the Domesday 
 survey, was in the hands of the 
 bishops of Kochester, by whom the 
 stronghold must have been erected. 
 
 The Church of W. Mailing has a 
 Norman tower, without a staircase. 
 The chancel is E. E., with a Jaco- 
 bean altar-tomb belonging to a 
 member of the Brett family, and 
 dated 1617. The nave was rebuilt 
 toward the end of the last century. 
 Brasses: Will. Millys, 1497; Will. 
 Skott, 1532 ; Eliz. Perecpoynt, (?) 
 1543- 
 
 Skirting the woods that stretch 
 upward from behind Mereworth, we 
 reach (1 m. W. from Mailing) Off- 
 ham, where is a small Norm, and 
 E. E. Church. In the chancel win- 
 dows, E. E., are some fragments of 
 stained glass. On the exterior wall 
 of the chancel remark a wide, shal- 
 low buttress, apparently Norm., in 
 which, it has been suggested, the 
 roodloft stairs were carried. A 
 similar buttress, with what seems a 
 window-frame, now closed, exists in 
 Hever Church, and in the same 
 position. 
 
 Offham Green boasts of what com- 
 monly passes for a venerable relic 
 in the shape of a quintain, but the 
 upright post and the cross-piece, to 
 which the bag of sand was attached, 
 are merely 1 restorations.' It is kept 
 in repair by Lord Hothfield, as 
 
 ■ Lord of the Manor. Quintains of 
 this form are scarcely earlier than 
 the reign of Elizabeth, the more 
 ancient having been in the shape of 
 a giant or 4 Saracen,' with a broad 
 wooden sword, which struck the un- 
 skilful filter as the figure turned on 
 its pivot. ( Meyrick. ) 
 
 The road leading from Maidstone 
 to Sevenoaks and Westerham, which 
 is crossed in passing from Offham 
 to Addington (1 m. N.), is, per- 
 haps, one of great antiquity — in all 
 probability Roman, if it represents 
 the i military way 9 mentioned in 
 the charter (a.d. 945) of Edmund of 
 Wessex, granting W. Mailing to the 
 Bp. of Rochester. It is possible, 
 however, that this ancient road ran 
 somewhat more to the S. The 
 Church of Addington is Perp., but 
 not very interesting. The barge- 
 board of the N. porch is worth notice. 
 Some Brasses remain ; one very good 
 (William Snayth and wife, 1409 ; 
 and some fragments of incised slabs, 
 with Lorn bardic capitals, temp. Ed w. 
 II., for the Leschekers (de Scac- 
 cario\ lords of the manor. An in- 
 scription on the wall, mentioned by 
 Hasted, has now disappeared. He 
 quotes it as follows : — ■ 
 
 ' In fourteen hundred and none 
 Here was neither stick nor stone ; 
 In fourteen hundred and three 
 The goodly building which you see.' 
 
 This rhyme, it may be observed, is 
 claimed by other churches, in Surrey 
 and elsewhere. 
 
 The position of the ch., on a 
 wooded hillock, is very picturesque. 
 The hillock itself, a remarkable cone 
 of earth, is one of several which 
 exist in the S. part of this parish. 
 If these i veritable pyramids 9 are 
 artificial, as has been suggested by 
 Mr. Wright {Wanderings of an Anti- 
 quary), they are sepulchral mounds, 
 and possibly contain great stone 
 cromlechs, resembling that of Kit's 
 Coity House. This is rendered more 
 probable by the existence, in the 
 immediate neighbourhood, of con- 
 siderable remains of the kind 
 usually called Druidical, and of 
 
208 
 
 ROUTE 6 — ADDINGTON.— RYARSH CHURCH. 
 
 many sepulchral pits in the chalk- 
 hills, as well as by a tradition con- 
 necting this place with the hills 
 above Aylesford, to which a con- 
 tinuous line of stones is said to have 
 extended, some of which are still to 
 be traced. (See Kit's Coity House, 
 ante.) 
 
 The cluster of these remains about 
 Addington perhaps indicates a great 
 tribal cemetery, like that at Ayles- 
 ford. In Addington Park (C. J. S. 
 Whitburn, Esq.) are two stone 
 circles, within the smaller of which 
 are pieces of large cap-stones, pos- 
 sibly the covering slabs of cromlechs. 
 4 It should be remarked that the 
 ground within the smaller circle ap- 
 pears raised, as though it were the 
 remains of a mound, which, per- 
 haps, was never completed/ — 
 Wright. An irregular mass of large 
 stones near the circles perhaps covers 
 a subterranean chamber. At no 
 great distance from Addington Park, 
 at the top of a hill near Coldrum 
 Farm, is another smaller circle, with 
 a cromlech, perfect all but the cap- 
 stone. Within this, numerous frag- 
 ments of urns, &c, of various 
 periods, but chiefly Brito-Roman, 
 were found in 1856. Just above, at 
 the top of Ryarsh chalk-hill, are two 
 large stones lying flat on the ground, 
 and near them is the entrance to 
 what is apparently a sepulchral 
 chamber, cut in the chalk. The en- 
 trance is by a well, about 20 ft. 
 deep .and 10 in diameter. A door- 
 way at the bottom leads into the 
 chamber. (Comp. the pits filled 
 with flints on Aylesford Common, 
 ante.) In Poundgate, or White 
 Horse Wood, running along the top 
 of the hill behind, are numerous 
 masses of stones, resembling those 
 of the circles, and the two lying near 
 the mouth of the pit. Single stones 
 of great magnitude are scattered 
 over the fields, and may be traced 
 for some distance toward the Med- 
 way. The tradition of this great 
 stone avenue may be compared with 
 the famous parallel rows of stone at 
 Carnac, in Brittany, with some 
 
 miniature remains, of precisely 
 similar character, still existing on 
 Dartmoor, and with the few relics 
 of Avebury, in Wilts. The distance 
 from the Coldrum circles to Kit's 
 Coity House is nearly 6 m., and the 
 two cemeteries, thus united by a 
 long stone avenue, seem to have 
 formed the grand necropolis of the 
 Belgian settlers in this part of the 
 island. ' The whole district is thus 
 interesting as one of our hallowed 
 sites ; while the footsteps of the 
 wanderer are drawn to it by its 
 rich scenery, diversified with pas- 
 tures, cornfields, and hop-grounds, 
 plentifully intermingled with woods 
 and copses.' — Wright. The first care- 
 ful investigator of these remains 
 was the late Rev. L. B. Larking of 
 Ryarsh. Mr. Wright has followed, 
 with an excellent description ; but 
 much remains to be done. The 
 great earthen pyramids at Adding- 
 ton seem, at all events, to hold out 
 hopes of reward to the investigator. 
 
 The stones of the circles and 
 avenue are ferruginous sandrock, 
 boulders of which, during the ter- 
 tiary period, were carried over the 
 whole of the chalk district in this 
 neighbourhood. Geologists and an- 
 tiquaries, however, are agreed as to 
 many of the stones in the so-called 
 avenue having been artificially 
 placed. Others are still no doubt 
 in situ in the diluvial soil. 
 
 In the parish of Addington is a 
 6 nailbourne' (see Introduction) , which 
 breaks out at intervals of some years, 
 and flows into the Leyborne rivulet. 
 
 The Church of Ryarsh (1 m. 
 N.E. from Addington) is Norm., 
 with Perp. alterations and additions. 
 The E. end shows traces of numerous 
 small Norman windows, replaced by 
 a single late Perp. There is also a 
 Norm, piscina. Notice the masonry 
 of the chancel and its tufa quoins ; 
 also its north wall, which is original. 
 No chancel arch seems to have 
 originally existed. (Cf. Paddles- 
 worth, Rte. 6.) 
 
 2 m. W. of Ryarsh is Trotters- 
 
KOUTE 6. — TROTTERSCLIFFE — WEOTHAM. 209 
 
 cliffe or Trottescliffe. The ch. is 
 
 Norman ; of much interest, and in 
 perfect preservation. 
 
 [At Birling, i| m. N. of Ryarsh, 
 and close under the range of chalk - 
 hills that here sweeps round toward 
 the Medway, forming what is called 
 the valley of Maidstone, is the 
 ancient residence of the Nevills, 
 Lords Bergavenny — Biiiing Place — 
 now a farm-house, but exhibiting 
 many indications of its ancient 
 state as a manor-house, carved 
 stones being plentifully worked 
 up in the out-buildings. The 
 church is Perp., and contains a very- 
 good window of stained glass, the 
 gift of the late Earl of Abergavenny 
 (formerly rector), some of whose 
 ancestors were interred here. There 
 are no monuments. The manor, 
 with its enclosed park, passed 
 through the families of Maminot 
 and Say to the Nevills about 1450, 
 when Sir Edward Nevill, sixth son 
 of the first Earl of Westmorland, 
 received the lands of Birling in 
 right of his wife, together with the 
 title of Lord Bergavenny. His de- 
 scendant still possesses it, and the 
 late lord more than once made 
 Birling his residence, having built 
 Birling Manor, a handsome manor, 
 here.] 
 
 Near Kyarsh Church is Leyborne 
 Grange, the seat of Sir Henry James 
 Hawley, Bart., of sporting celebrity. 
 The paddocks for racehorses are ex- 
 tensive, and were of high repute 
 under their late owner Sir Joseph 
 Hawley, the winner of sundry 
 Derby s, &c, and the grounds very 
 beautiful. 
 
 \ m. E. is the Church of Leyborne, 
 which deserves a visit. It is E. 
 Norman, with Perp. additions ; the 
 tower has been lately rebuilt : on 
 the N. side of the N. aisle is a re- 
 markable niche of Dec. character. 
 It is of considerable size, much 
 ornamented, and has two trefoiled 
 arches, divided by a shaft and filled 
 with solid masonry about half-way 
 up. In each of these arches is a 
 
 small tabernacle, within one of 
 which was found, during a recent 
 investigation, a heart, in a leaden 
 box. The other had been prepared 
 to receive a similar deposit, which, 
 however, had never been placed 
 there. The heart was most pro- 
 bably that of Sir Roger de Leyborne, 
 a celebrated warrior of the time of 
 Henry III., who died in Prince 
 Edward's crusade, a.d. 127 i. — (Rev. 
 L. B. Larking, in Arch. Cant vol. v. ; 
 a very interesting memoir.) Notice 
 the S. wall, which is original, and 
 the S.E. quoin of the nave, which is 
 of tufa. 
 
 Close to the ch. stood the ancient 
 Castle of Leyborne (Leleburne of 
 Domesday, from the 4 little burn* 
 or stream that runs through the 
 parish), held by a family of the 
 same name from the reign of Coeur 
 de Lion to that of Edward III. ; 
 when their ancient race became ex- 
 tinct in the person of Juliana de 
 Leyborne, called the * Infanta of 
 Kent,' from the broad lands and 
 manors she inherited in this county, 
 and which she carried successively 
 to her three husbands. She gave 
 Leyborne to the king (Edward III.), 
 for the endowment of religious 
 houses ; and by him it was bestowed 
 on the newly-founded Cistercian 
 abbey of St. Mary Graces in London. 
 Since the Dissolution it has passed 
 through various hands, and finally 
 into those of the Hawleys of the 
 Grange, who are now lords of the 
 manor. A fine gateway and some 
 other portions of the Castle still 
 remain. 
 
 From Leyborne the tourist may 
 return to Maidstone, 5^ m., by the 
 Sevenoaks road ; passing through 
 the hamlet of Larkfield, which gives 
 its name to the hundred. From 
 W. Mailing the line continues to 
 Wrotham (5 m.) and Sevenoaks, 
 (For excursion to Wrotham see p. 
 230.) Wrotham Station is at Bo- 
 rough Green, i\ m. S. of the vil- 
 lage of Wrotham. 
 
 (c) For Leeds Castle, see Rte. 10. 
 
210 ROUTE 7. — ASHFORD TO RAMSGATE, ETC. 
 
 (d) For East Farleigh, Watering- 
 bury, &c, see Rte. 2. 
 
 (e) A very pleasant excursion may 
 be made through the village of 
 Loose to Linton, 4 m. S. 
 
 The stream which runs through 
 the little village of Loose, i sullen ' 
 like the Mole, flows underground 
 for about \ m. of its course, disap- 
 pearing at Brishing, above the vil- 
 lage. Loose itself, surrounded by 
 hop-grounds, stands picturesquely 
 on the hill-side ; but is exceeded in 
 interest by the village of Linton, i| 
 m., lying beyond Coxheath, one of 
 the temporary Aldershots of the last 
 century. In 1778 15,000 troops were 
 encamped on it. 
 
 Linton Place (Viscount Holmesdale, 
 M.P.) well deserves a visit for the 
 sake of its noble view. i The house 
 is fine/ wrote (1757) Walpole to Sir 
 H. Mann, whose elder brother then 
 possessed it, 'and stands like the 
 citadel of Kent. The whole county 
 is its garden. So rich a prospect 
 scarce wants my Thames/ Here is 
 one of the finest collection of conifers 
 in Kent, or indeed in Britain. Lin- 
 ton passed from the Manns by mar- 
 riage into the Cornwallis family. 
 The body of Sir Horace Mann, Wal- 
 pole's correspondent, was brought 
 from Florence, where he died (1786), 
 and buried in Linton Church. In 1758 
 Walpole had himself erected a mon- 
 ument here for Galfridus Mann, 
 brother of Sir Horace, which the 
 visitor may still criticise. 'The 
 thought was my own,' he writes, 
 i adapted from the antique colum- 
 baria, and applied to Gothic. The 
 execution of the design was Mr. 
 Bentley's, who alone of all mankind 
 could unite the grace of Grecian 
 architecture and the irregular light- 
 ness and solemnity of Gothic 
 
 The soffete is more beautiful than 
 anything of either style separate. 
 . . . . The urn is of marble, richly 
 polished ; the rest of stone. On the 
 whole I think there is simplicity 
 and decency, with a degree of orna- 
 ment that destroys neither.' This 
 
 Strawberry Hill description is at 
 least as remarkable as the urn itself. 
 Some later monuments for the Corn- 
 wallis family, by Bailey, will be 
 noticed for very different reasons. 
 
 At Boughton Monchelsea, a 
 
 short distance E. of Linton (where, 
 in a fissure, the late Dr. Buckland 
 discovered remains of the hyama), 
 and in many of the adjoining pa- 
 rishes, quarries of the ' Kentish 
 rag ' are extensively worked. This 
 rock forms the lowest stratum of 
 the ' lower greensand,' and consists 
 of alternate beds of siliceous sand- 
 stone and limestone, closely resem- 
 bling the 1 Bargate-stone ' of Surrey. 
 The Kentish rag has been worked 
 and used from a very early period. 
 The foundations of the Temple of 
 Diana, discovered by Sir Christopher 
 Wren under the site of old St. 
 Paul's, were of this stone ; and the 
 walls of numerous churches through- 
 out the county are built of it, as are 
 those of nearly all castles and eccle- 
 siastical buildings bordering the 
 Thames and the Medway. Owing 
 to its great hardness, balls for cata- 
 pults and other engines of mediaeval 
 warfare were made from it ; and 
 7000 cannon-balls were worked out 
 of the ' Maidstone quarries ' at the 
 order of Henry VI. 
 
 ROUTE 7. 
 
 ASHFORD TO RAMSGATE, BROAD- 
 STAIRS, AND MARGATE, BY 
 CHILHAM, CANTERBURY, AND 
 "MINSTER, 
 
 (South Eastern Railway.) 34 m. 
 
 From Ashford (Rte. 2) as far as 
 Canterbury, the railway, following 
 the line of an ancient road which 
 fell into the Watling Street at Can- 
 terbury, passes through the valley 
 of the .Stour, bounded on either side 
 
ROUTE 7. — WYE— WYE DOWNS. 
 
 211 
 
 by low wooded hills, and about 
 Chilham offering scenery of much 
 quiet beauty. The first station is at 
 
 60 m. (from Charing Cross) "Wye 
 Stat.* The Church (restored), seen 
 rt., across the river, was rebuilt by 
 Abp. Kempe (temp. Hen. VI.), who 
 was born at Olantigh in this parish. 
 It had a central tower, which fell in 
 1685, destroying great part of the 
 building. The present tower and 
 chancel date from 1706. The Perp. 
 nave is Kempe's ; it has been par- 
 tially restored. Brass: Alice Pal- 
 mere, 1440. 
 
 Wye was one of the royal manors 
 granted by the Conqueror to Battle 
 Abbey ; and its manor-house, of 
 which no trace remains, was of suf- 
 ficient size and importance to re- 
 ceive the visits of many sovereigns. 
 The manor has jurisdiction over 22 
 hundreds, a proof of its ancient con- 
 sequence. 
 
 The College, at the end of the vil- 
 lage adjoining the churchyard, was 
 founded by Abp. Kempe in 1447, 
 who, having rebuilt the ch., made 
 it collegiate, amply endowing it, 
 and providing at the same time for 
 .the education of the parish. The 
 present college was the residence of 
 his provost and chaplains. At the 
 Dissolution the site passed into the 
 hands of the Crown, and subse- 
 quently through those of various 
 proprietors, until Sir George Wheler, 
 in 1724, gave it by will as a resi- 
 dence for the master of the grammar- 
 school, and for the use of Lady 
 Joanna Thornhill's charity. 
 
 The college formed a quadrangle, 
 the lower storey of stone, the upper 
 timbered. A large hall occupied 
 one side of the square. This is now 
 the school- room, and the present 
 kitchen was the ancient common- 
 room. Some fragments of ancient 
 stained glass remain in the windows 
 of the S. side. 
 
 Abp. Kempe's school-room adjoins 
 the churchyard, and may be the 
 original one. The teaching here 
 was to be gratis, ' except the usual 
 
 offerings of cocks and pence at the 
 Feast of S. Nicholas/ 
 
 Lady Joanna Thornhill's school, 
 founded 1708, provides for the edu- 
 cation of the poorest children, and 
 is amply endowed. 
 
 The neighbouring country is plea- 
 sant. The Stour here is famous for 
 its pike. 
 
 1 m. N. of Wye is Olantigh Towers 
 (W. E. Sawbridge Erle-Drax, Esq., 
 M.P.). The grounds are adorned with 
 statuary (seen from the rly.), and the 
 house contains several noble apart- 
 ments richly decorated, and filled 
 to overflowing with paintings and 
 other art treasures, but they are not 
 shown. 
 
 In front of the house stands 
 an equestrian statue of an owner, 
 heroic size, erected by himself. 
 The picturesque old race-course — a 
 favourite resort of Kentish sports- 
 men — in a hollow among the chalk 
 hills, E. of the line, has been aban- 
 doned in favour of a new course 
 close to the rly. stat. 
 
 The Church of Brook, 2 m. S.E. of 
 Wye, may deserve examination ; it 
 lias a priest's chamber and some 
 curious masonry in the Norman 
 tower, which is as substantial still 
 as the original builders left it. At 
 Hinxhill (anciently Hengestelle) 
 beyond Brook, a subterranean fire 
 is said to have broken out in 1727 
 which lasted for six weeks, and con- 
 sumed three acres of land. 
 
 At Withersden, S. of the village, 
 is St. Eustace's Well, so named from 
 Eustace, abbot of Flai, who, at the 
 beginning of the 13th cent., preached 
 throughout England the better ob- 
 servance of Sunday. After his ser- 
 mon at Wye, according to Matt. 
 Paris, he blessed this fountain, which 
 from that time cured all diseases. 
 
 The views from "Wye Downs, part 
 the chain of chalk hills extending 
 S.E. as far as Folkestone, will repay 
 the labour of climbing them. On 
 the side of the hill above Tremworth 
 an extensive Roman cemetery was 
 
212 ROUTE 7. — BOUGrHTON" 
 
 ALUPH — WESTWELL. 
 
 discovered in 1703, and was after- 
 wards carefully explored by the Rev. 
 Bryan Faussett, in whose collection 
 (now at Liverpool) much of the glass 
 and pottery found here is still pre- 
 served. More recent discoveries in 
 this neighbourhood are recorded in 
 Arch. Cant. vol. i. 
 
 [W. of Wye an interesting excur- 
 sion may be made by Boughton 
 Aluph and Eastwell, to Charing 
 (8 m.). 
 
 The large Dec. Church of Bough- 
 ton Aluph, 2 1 m., so named from 
 Aluph de Boughton, lord of the 
 manor temp. J ohn, will amply repay 
 a visit : the tower is central. From 
 Boughton the lower road should be 
 taken to Eastwell Church,in which 
 is buried the i last of the Planta- 
 genet s.' Richard, a natural son of 
 Richard III., is said to have fled 
 here immediately after the battle of 
 Bosworth, and to have supported 
 himself as a mason, until discovered 
 by Sir Thomas Moyle, who allowed 
 him to build a small house adjoining 
 Eastwell Place, in which he lived 
 and died (1550). The parish register 
 of burials contains the following 
 entry, copied, of course, from an 
 earlier book : — 
 
 * V. Rychard Plantagenet, Desember 22nd, 
 1550.' 
 
 The letter V marking persons of 
 noble birth throughout the register. 
 A tomb in the chancel, without in- 
 scription and deprivedpf its brasses, 
 is said to belong to this offset of 
 the White Rose (but the Earl of 
 Winchilsea told Dr. Brett in 1720 
 that it was unknown whether he 
 was buried in the ch. or ch.-yard. — 
 See Dr. Brett's letter in Peck's Desi- 
 derata Curiosa). The house in which 
 Plantagenet lived was destroyed 
 toward the end of the 17th cent. ; 
 a modern building marks the site. 
 Near it is a spring, still called 
 4 Plantagenet's Well.' 
 
 The stately tomb of Sir Moyle 
 Finch, and his wife the Countess of 
 Winchilsea (1614), should also be 
 noticed. 
 
 Eastwell Park (E. of Winchil- 
 sea, occupied for some years by the 
 Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh), 
 which the road now skirts for some 
 distance, contains some fine park 
 scenery (Defoe, in his Journey through 
 England, declares it was the finest 
 park he had ever seen), especially at 
 the N.W. corner, where the high 
 ground commands the sea on either 
 side— Sheerness and the Nore, N., 
 across the picturesque heights of 
 Challock Wood, and the old forest 
 of the Blean ; and, S., the Channel 
 beyond Romney Marsh. The view 
 is a very remarkable one, and the 
 tourist will do well not to miss it. 
 The hill which commands it has its 
 sides covered with wood, through 
 w^hich eight avenues are cut, called 
 ' The Star Walks/ The venison fed 
 in this park is considered the finest 
 in Kent. (For an edifying story of 
 the misfortunes which resulted from 
 the felling of 1 a most curious grove 
 of oaks ' here, by one of the Earls of 
 Winchilsea, see Norwood, Handbook 
 for Surrey, &c. ) 
 
 The House, which is modern, and 
 has no special interest, replaced that 
 built by Sir Thomas Moyle, temp. 
 Hen. VIII., from whom the estate 
 passed to the Finches, Earls of 
 Winchilsea. It was from here that 
 Lord Winchilsea was summoned 
 by James II. on his detention at 
 Faversham. 
 
 Close under the park, N., is the 
 church of Challock, with a high 
 embattled tower. N.E. of Challock 
 and on the road between that vil- 
 lage and Chilham, is the village of 
 Moldash, where the small E. E. 
 church is of some interest. 
 
 The manor of Westwell, i| m. 
 
 W., belonged to Ch. Ch., Canterbury. 
 The Church is partly E. E., and 
 contains some stained glass of very 
 high interest. The E. end is lighted 
 by three independent lancets, the 
 centre one of which contains the re- 
 mains of a remarkably fine Jesse. 
 Two ovals remain ; the figure of the 
 Virgin occupying the lower, and that 
 
EOUTE 7. — WESTWELL — CHARING: CHURCH. 213 
 
 of the Father Almighty the upper. 
 These have been carefully re-leaded 
 by Mr. Wil lenient. One of the side 
 lancets exhibits the remains of a 
 beautiful quarry pattern with a rich 
 border ; the other, now filled with 
 modern white glass, probably re- 
 sembled it. — C. W. All this glass is 
 E. E. Ripley Court here was the 
 residence of Alexander Iden, the 
 capturer of Jack Cade, but its an- 
 cient state and i quiet walks 3 have 
 been exchanged for the bustle of a 
 farmyard. 
 
 In the year 1574 a remarkable 
 case of apparent possession occurred 
 at Westwell, and is duly recorded by 
 Reginald Scot (Disc, of Witchcraft, 
 vii. ch. 1). Mildred Norrington, ser- 
 vant to William Sponde, 'was pos- 
 sessed with Satan in the night of 
 October 13th/ The ministers of 
 Westwell and Kennington were 
 called on to attend the case, and a 
 conference took place between them 
 and the evil spirit, in the course of 
 which the latter accused ' old Alice 
 of Westwell-street ' of having killed 
 three persons by the aid of the same 
 devil which had taken possession 
 of Mildred Norrington. 1 Satan's 
 voice/ say the ministers, i did differ 
 much from the maid's voice, and all 
 that he spake was in his own name/ 
 The * ventriloqua ' of Westwell, as 
 Master Scot calls her, was however 
 speedily discovered, and the i cosen- 
 age confessed.' ' Hags and witches,' 
 he continues, * will in time to come 
 be as much derided as Robin Good- 
 fellow and Hobgoblin be now,' — a 
 prophecy which has yet to be ful- 
 filled, so far as the remoter districts 
 of Kent are concerned. 
 
 From Westwell the road passes 
 along the chalk downs to 3 m. N.W. 
 Charing (on theL. C. and D. Rly.). 
 
 The chief point of interest here is 
 the Archbishop's Palace, the 
 ruins of which are considerable. 
 The great gateway, which remains, 
 opened into a court, partly sur- 
 rounded by offices : fronting it was 
 the entrance to the palace itself, 
 
 some part of which has been fitted 
 up as a dwelling-house, and at the 
 back are remains of the chapel. The 
 greater part of the ruins are early 
 Dec. (but the work is very poor), and 
 few traces remain of Abp. Morton's 
 work, who is said to have much en- 
 larged the palace, temp. Hen. VII. 
 
 Charing was one of the earliest 
 possessions of the church of Canter- 
 bury, and the archbishops had a 
 residence here long before the Con- 
 quest. It was much favoured by 
 later prelates, and both Henry VII. 
 and Henry VIII. were frequently 
 lodged here in their progresses. The 
 latter rested at Charing on his way 
 to the 1 Field of the Cloth of Gold ' ; 
 his other halts, after leaving his own 
 palace at Greenwich, being Otford, 
 Leeds, and Canterbury, all at that 
 time archiepiscopal palaces. The 
 king did not forget their splendour, 
 and Charing, among others, was 
 subsequently resigned to him by 
 Cranmer. 
 
 The Church, which has some few 
 E. E. and Perp. portions, is princi- 
 pally later than 1590, in which year 
 the greater part of it was accident- 
 ally burnt. It long contained (a-eclat 
 Judceus, &c.) a remarkable relic — the 
 block on which John the Baptist 
 was beheaded — brought to England 
 by Richard I. 
 
 Charing stands on a line of ancient 
 road, perhaps British, which joined 
 that running through the valley of 
 Ashford to Canterbury. In many 
 parts of its course, as is the case 
 about \ m. N. of Charing, it is 
 known as 'The Pilgrims' Way,' 
 and is traditionally said to be that 
 followed by the pilgrims to Canter- 
 bury coming from Southampton and 
 the western counties. Traces of it 
 are found throughout Kent, Surrey, 
 and Hampshire, ' marked often by 
 long lines of Kentish yews, usually 
 creeping half-way up the hills, im- 
 mediately above the line of cultiva- 
 tion, and under the highest crest, 
 passing here and there a solitary 
 chapel or friendly monastery, but 
 
214 
 
 ROUTE 7. — CHILHAM. 
 
 avoiding for the most part the towns 
 and villages and the regular roads, 
 probably for the same reason as, in 
 the days of Shamgar the son of 
 Anath, ' 1 the highways were unoccu- 
 pied, and the travellers walked 
 through byways." ' (Stanley, H. Mem. ; 
 and the line is carefully traced in a 
 note appended by Mr. Albert Way.)] 
 
 Beyond Wye the scenery on either 
 side of the railway increases in 
 beauty ; 1. is the richly wooded park 
 of Godmersham (J. C. Kay, Esq.) (post) 
 adjoining which is the beautifully 
 restored ch. 
 
 64} m. CHILHAM (Stat.). Im- 
 mediately above the stat., rt., is 
 Julaber's Grave, a lofty mound, 
 marked by a clump of fir-trees. It 
 is an artificial barrow, and earlier 
 antiquaries suggested that its name 
 was a corruption of 'Julius Laber- 
 ius/ i. e. of the name of Laberius, 
 the tribune of Julius Caesar, killed 
 in the second expedition, during the 
 battle at the river, the scene of which 
 was consequently fixed at Chilham, 
 and the mound called the grave of 
 Laberius. By others it has been 
 pronounced the grave of Cilia, the 
 Saxon founder of Chilham. After 
 more than one examination, how- 
 ever, no trace of sepulchral deposit 
 has been discovered. 'Julaber' 
 seems identical with ' Julian's 
 Bower,' itself perhaps a corruption, 
 but found in connection with ancient 
 earthworks and 1 labyrinths ' at Ap- 
 bleby in Lincolnshire, and else- 
 where. (See Stukeley, Itin. p. 91.) 
 Julian's Bowers are sometimes called 
 i Troy Town' ; and games were held 
 at them, perhaps connected with 
 the midsummer festival. Similar 
 earthworks are known as 'Gallantry,' 
 or 6 Gallant's Bower,' in some of the 
 western counties (as at Dartmouth). 
 The view of the valley of the Stour 
 from this mound is very fine. 
 
 \ m. from the station, 1., are the 
 village and Castle of Chilham 
 (purchased from the Wildman 
 family in i860 ; C. S. Hardy, Esq.). 
 
 There is a tolerable country Inn 
 here which the tourist may make 
 his centre for a day or two with 
 advantage. The Castle, of which 
 the remains are shown on appli- 
 cation, was surrounded by a deep 
 fosse, enclosing about eight acres. 
 At the N. W. angle stands the 
 ancient keep, octagonal, and three 
 storeys in height. This is late Norm. 
 Other portions of the castle seem to 
 have been used in the construction 
 of the modern houses which have 
 successively occupied its site. 
 
 The castle of Chilham replaced a 
 Roman Castrum, which here over- 
 looked the valley of the Stour. 
 Many Roman remains have been 
 discovered here ; and, in building 
 the present house, ancient founda- 
 tions were found at a great depth, 
 together with Roman vessels, of dif- 
 ferent sorts, in metal and pottery. 
 This first castle, according to general 
 tradition, was the residence of Lu- 
 cius, the Brito-Roman king, who is 
 said to have become a Christian 
 convert, a.d. 181, and to whom the 
 earliest foundation of Canterbury 
 cathedral is attributed. (For a care- 
 ful discussion of this question see 
 a paper by Hallam in the Archwo- 
 logia. After his conversion Lucius 
 is said to have become a hermit 
 at Coire in the Grisons, where his 
 relics are still shown in the cathe- 
 dral. ) Chilham subsequently passed 
 into the hands of the Saxon kings 
 of Kent, by whom the castle was 
 much strengthened. After the Con- 
 quest it was granted to a Norman 
 knight named Fulbert. He assumed 
 the name of De Dover (the lands 
 having been granted to him for the 
 defence of Dover Castle), and the 
 line of his descendants expired in 
 Isabel de Dover, Countess of Athole, 
 who died here in 1292, and whose 
 tomb remains in the undercroft of 
 Canterbury Cathedral. Through the 
 great house of Badlesmere, and 
 many others, it at last came to 
 Sir Thomas Cheyney, Edward IV. 's 
 Warden of the Cinque Ports, who 
 pulled down the greater part of the 
 
ROUTE 7. — CHILHAM 
 
 CHURCH — CHARTHAM. 215 
 
 ancient buildings, but whether in 
 order to complete his mansion at 
 Shurland, in the Isle of Sheppey, 
 with the materials is doubtful. 
 (Rte. 13.) At the beginning of 
 the 17th cent. Chilham became the 
 property of Sir Dudley Digges, who 
 built a new residence here— that 
 which now exists. It was completed 
 in 16 16, and is a fine specimen of 
 James I. architecture. From his 
 descendants it passed to the Cole- 
 brooks in 1752, and thence to the 
 Herons and Wildmans, its last pos- 
 sessors. The house was restored by 
 the father of the present owner. 
 
 The Church is Dec, with a later 
 clerestory, and belonged to the 
 Priory of Throwley, a«. cell of the 
 Benedictine Abbey of St. Bertin, 
 until the suppression of alien houses, 
 when it was granted to the mona- 
 stery of Sion. The S. chancel has 
 been appropriated to the illustration 
 of the house of Digges, whose monu- 
 mental display hera deserves atten- 
 tion. An obelisk rises in the centre 
 of the chancel, having a selection 
 from the cardinal virtues arranged 
 about its base. Temperance and 
 Fortitude are especially commended 
 to the attention of the curious. Ob- 
 serve also the pillar to Lady Digges, 
 1 in imitation of that set up by Jacob 
 over Rachel.' The N. chancel, ap- 
 propriated to the Colebrooks. was 
 rebuilt by one of them, in imitation 
 of a Roman columbarium, with cir- 
 cles for inscriptions instead of urn- 
 niches ; but this monstrosity has 
 now been demolished, and the chan- 
 cel rebuilt in keeping with the rest 
 of the ch. In the main chancel is a 
 monument by Chantrey, for T. Wild- 
 man, Esq. A monument here to 
 one of the Fogg family, and another 
 to a Lady Digges in the N. transept, 
 are unusual. Both are early 17th- 
 cent. work. They are of marble, 
 covered with minute arabesques and 
 diapered patterns, worked in the 
 stone itself. Notice also the monu- 
 ment at the W. end to Margaret, 
 JLady Palmer. 
 
 The views over the valley of the 
 Stour from the castle, and from the 
 high ground above the village, are 
 of great beauty. The tower of Wye, 
 and farther on that of Ashford, are 
 good landmarks. 
 
 The park which surrounds Chil- 
 ham Castle is of some extent ; but 
 although it commands a more exten- 
 sive view, and has in it some noble 
 old trees, especially chestnuts, it is 
 not perhaps so picturesque as a 
 whole as that of Godmersham, 
 which adjoins it E. Between the 
 park and churchyard is the village 
 ' square' — one of the most picturesque 
 in Kent. The ancient timbered 
 houses form a charming approach to 
 the main entrance to the Castle 
 looking in one direction, and to the 
 churchyard looking in the other. 
 At the S.E. end of this park, close 
 to the river, are the church and 
 village of Godmersham. The 
 Church, with the manor, belonged 
 to Ch. Ch., Canterbury. A short 
 distance N. is the old manor-house 
 of the Priors, much altered, but still, 
 retaining a very interesting frag- 
 ment of isth-cent. work, proba- 
 bly due to Prior Henry de Estria, 
 who repaired the house here about 
 1290. There is a doorway, now built 
 up, with good mouldings, and in the 
 upper part a figure of the prior, with 
 mitre and crozier. The cylindrical 
 chimney in the gable adjoining is of 
 the same date, and apparently re- 
 tains its original capping. {Hudson 
 Turner.) The hall and the other 
 parts of the building were pulled 
 down about 1810. 
 
 66} m. Chartham (Stat.). The 
 Church (restd.) is a short distance 
 S. of the station ; it well deserves a 
 visit. 
 
 The nave is partly E.E., the chan- 
 cel Dec. (towards the end of Edw. 
 II.'s reign), and has four windows 
 on either side, the tracery of which 
 is very beautiful and unusual. The 
 E. window is the double of one of the 
 side windows. Examples of this pe- 
 culiar tracery, which has been called 
 
216 
 
 ROUTE 7. — CHARTHAM. 
 
 'the Kentish/ occur in the hall 
 windows at Penshurst, in the chapel 
 windows at Leeds Castle, and in the 
 windows of the hall at May field 
 (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. i.). Observe the 
 trefoil moulding which connects the 
 windows within. Some of the origi- 
 nal stained glass remains and de- 
 serves careful notice ; the red and 
 green vine-leaf pattern bordering the 
 lights is especially graceful. On the 
 N. side is an unknown tomb, probably 
 that of the builder of the chancel. 
 On the floor there used to be a 
 very fine Brass of a knight of the 
 Septvans family, an excellent ex- 
 ample of armour, temp. Edw. II. : 
 on his shield, surcoat, and aillettes 
 or shoulder-pieces, are three wheat- 
 screens or fans, the arms of the 
 Septvans. The mailed coif is thrown 
 back from the head. The 'hauke- 
 ton' of leather appears at the 
 wrists, and again below the ringed 
 hauberk. The i poleyns ' or knee- 
 pieces are highly ornamented. This 
 brass was removed when the ch. was 
 restored. There are three smaller 
 r 5th-cent. Brasses for rectors of Chart- 
 ham, and one for Jane Clefforth, 
 1 530, of very peculiar workmanship. 
 
 Between the nave and chancel are 
 trefoil-headed hagioscopes. 
 
 In the S. transept is an elaborate 
 monument by Rysbrach for Sir 
 "William Young and his wife Sarah 
 Fagg ; and adjoining are other re- 
 cords of the Faggs of Mystole, all of 
 whom it appears 1 exemplarily satis- 
 fied the ends for which they were 
 born/ The N. transept contains the 
 monument of Dr. Delangle, 1724, a 
 French refugee, who became canon 
 of Westminster and rector here. 
 The whole of this ch., but especi- 
 ally the chancel, deserves the most 
 careful examination. Notice also a 
 noble yew in the churchyard. 
 
 The village of Chartham is built 
 round a green, on one side of which 
 is the 1 Delangle House ' built by the 
 Doctor, and marked by a bust of 
 Charles II., with sceptre and cushion, 
 in a niche over the entrance. At 
 the back of the village is a large 
 
 paper-mill, the smoke from which is 
 conspicuous throughout the whole 
 valley. 
 
 In 1668 one of the first discoveries 
 of enormous fossil bones which at- 
 tracted the attention of the learned 
 was made at Chartham in sinking a 
 well, and gave rise to various specu- 
 lations. 
 
 On the Downs above the village 
 W., are some relics of a number 
 of tumuli called Danes' Banks, the 
 greater part of which were examined 
 by Mr. Faussett. S. of the tumuli the 
 Downs are marked by intrenchment 
 lines which cross them from E. to W. 
 
 Chartham is a favourite excursion 
 from Canterbury (4 m.), by the road 
 through Wincheap, and the visitor 
 may return by a pleasant field-path, 
 which will \>ring him out at the 
 venerable Westgate in Canterbury. 
 About half-way, and in the lower 
 ground, is the farm-house of Tuni- 
 ford, where are some remains of 
 a mansion originally belonging to 
 an ancient family of that name. 
 The great fireplace in the kitchen, 
 and the remains of the roof are of 
 great interest. The former is pro- 
 bably of Tudor times, the latter per- 
 haps formed part of the chapel roof. 
 The gateway arch is early Perp. 
 and very graceful. In the ruined 
 wall, which seems to have enclosed 
 a quadrangle, and in the wall of 
 the present house, are fragments of 
 circular towers, which are probably 
 earlier. Sir Thomas Browne, 27 
 Hen. VI. [1449], obtained leave to 
 'embattle and empark,' and the 
 later work may be his. The house 
 was moated. Pleasant rides or drives 
 may be taken in the Penny Pot Woods 
 (so called from an old-fashioned Inn 
 the Penny Pot House), extending 
 S.E. from Chartham to Crundale 
 and Waltham. 
 
 In returning to Canterbury by the 
 road, the little desecrated Church of 
 Horton is first passed, 1., now used 
 as a hop oast, but containing a curi- 
 ous Dec. roof. Beyond is Milton 
 (E. !.), and next Thanington, very 
 
KOUTE 7. — THANINGTON — MINSTER CHURCH. 217 
 
 rude E. E., with a low square tower 
 at N. side of nave, and, as in some 
 other churches of this neighbour- 
 hood — Upper Hardres, Bekesbourne, 
 Stourmouth — two lancets in the E. 
 gable instead of the usual three. In 
 the churchyard is a large yew. Both 
 these churches are dedicated to the 
 great Norman patron, St. Nicholas. 
 
 It was near this that Judge Hales, 
 in the reign of Mary, drowned him- 
 self out of remorse for his compliance 
 with the Romanising Government. 
 The churchyard of Thanington com- 
 mands a fine view over the valley of 
 the Stour, and has been named as 
 the scene of Gray's ' Elegy/ The 
 ford at Thanington was probably the 
 way between the two sites of British 
 encampments on the hills now called 
 Iffin's Wood and Bigberry Wood. 
 Both can be easily identified. That 
 on the former contained a tumulus, 
 150 ft. round and 6 ft. high, which 
 was opened some years since, and five 
 urns, one of unusual size, were dis- 
 covered. Opposite to Thanington is 
 a field known as i Up-and-down field, 
 perhaps the i Bob up and down ' of 
 Chaucer. (For interesting details 
 concerning this neighbourhood con- 
 sult Crosse and Hall's Rambles round 
 Old Canterbury.) 
 
 From the railway, beyond Chart- 
 ham, these churches are seen rt. ; 
 1. is the high ground of Harbledown, 
 with its picturesque hospital, after 
 passing which the train soon reaches 
 
 70 m. Canterbury (Stat.). See 
 Ete. 3. 
 
 For the country between Canter- 
 bury and Minster, see Rte. 4. 
 
 81 J m. Minster Junction. Here 
 the Rly. to Sandwich and Deal (Rte. 
 4) branches S. 
 
 Opposite Minster Church, the 
 tall spire of which is very conspicu- 
 ous among the trees adjoining the 
 station, was formerly a creek, called 
 Minster Fleet, and some slight re- 
 mains of an ancient pier may still be 
 traced, the present marshes having 
 been once covered by the sea. 
 
 Minster is the scene of a remark- 
 able legend, in which Kemble (Sax. 
 in Eng. i. 348) finds traces of an- 
 cient heathenism. Egbert, fourth 
 Christian King of Kent, had unjustly 
 excluded his cousins from the throne, 
 and ordered his lieutenant, Thunor, 
 to put them to death. This was 
 done, and the bodies were buried 
 under the king's own throne. But a 
 mysterious light revealed the place. 
 Egbert was terrified, and by the 
 advice of Abp. Theodore he sent 
 to Domneva, sister of the murdered 
 princes, to ask forgiveness and pay 
 the wergyld. Domneva desired to 
 have land for founding a monastery 
 — as much as a hind could run over 
 at one course. The king agreed ; and 
 the hind was accordingly let loose 
 in Thanet in his presence. Thunor 
 endeavoured to stop it by riding 
 across its course : but the earth 
 opened and swallowed him, <et in 
 infernum cum Dathan et Abiram 
 absorbetur.' The hind continued 
 her course straight across the island, 
 having run over about 48 plough- 
 lands. The monastery (Minster) 
 was founded on the ground thus 
 acquired by Domneva, who was the 
 first abbess. Mildred, her daughter, 
 a yet greater saint, succeeded, and 
 ruled over the * great multitude of 
 virgins.' The house flourished until 
 1011, when it was destroyed by 
 Sweyn of Denmark, and the abbess 
 with her nuns were burnt within 
 the walls. Knut, Sweyn's son, gave 
 the land and site of the monastery 
 to St. Augustine's at Canterbury. 
 The gift included the body of 
 the 'Nardiflua Virgo,' St. Mil- 
 dred, which had escaped the Danish 
 ravages, and which, after declining 
 to move, at last yielded to the 
 prayers of the abbot, who took it 
 from its tomb by night, and fled 
 with it in haste to the ferry, pursued 
 by the men of Thanet, unwilling 
 to lose so great a treasure. It 
 was, however, safely conveyed to 
 St. Augustine's, where its miracles 
 soon became of great reputation. 
 The present Church was erected 
 
218 
 
 ROUTE 7 .—MINSTER. 
 
 after the land had become the pro- 
 perty of St. Augustine's. It is large 
 and important, has been restored, 
 and well deserves a visit. The nave 
 is late Norm. ; the transepts and 
 choir E. E. The choir is vaulted 
 in four bays, springing from shafts 
 between four very lofty E. E. win- 
 dows. The E. window is a triplet 
 E. E., with clustered shafts between 
 the lights. In the choir are 18 
 miserere stalls, with very perfect 
 grotesques. On the base of the 
 second pilaster, N. side of choir, 
 is scratched in letters of early form, 
 4 Discat qui nescit quod nothus hie 
 requiescit ' ; a leaden coffin was dis- 
 covered underneath in the course of 
 the restorations, possibly containing 
 the remains of the person thus un- 
 flatteringly commemorated. The 
 transept vaulting was perhaps never 
 completed. The commencement of 
 each bay alone remains. Within the 
 tower is a Norm, door, with tympa- 
 num. At the N. end of the N. tran- 
 sept is the arched tomb of Edila de 
 Thorne ; the brass is gone. In the S. 
 aisle of nave is the old Bible pew, 
 with the fragment of a brass-studded 
 cover still chained to it. A Bible 
 has been given to replace the 
 original one. Remark also a very 
 ancient iron-bound chest, of which 
 the lid is a rounded oak trunk. 
 Notice two large black marble altar- 
 tombs, in this aisle, elaborately de- 
 corated with death's heads and in- 
 scriptions to match. The spire was 
 originally surmounted by a cross, but 
 this was removed in 1647 by * Blue 
 Dick,' the famous Canterbury fa- 
 natic ; who, when Meric Casaubon, 
 the previous vicar, refused the Cove- 
 nant, obtained the grant of the se- 
 questration. 
 
 E. of the churchyard is Minsier 
 Court (R. Swinford, Esq.), the manor- 
 house in which the monks resided 
 who cared for the estate. There 
 are still some remains of the old 
 building ; the chief relic being what 
 seems to have once formed an entire 
 house, dating late in 12th cent. One 
 end is now joined to other buildings. 
 
 In the other is a Norm, window ; 
 the interior has been entirely mo- 
 dernized. This was probably the 
 original grange. The great barn or 
 4 Spicarium,' 352 ft. long by 47 wide, 
 with chestnut roof, was set on fire 
 by lightning in 1700 and burnt. 
 The abbot had much difficulty with 
 his tenants here, descendants of the 
 fierce old Jutes. In 1318 they at- 
 tempted to destroy the manor-house, 
 besieged the monks in it for 15 days, 
 cut down trees and burnt all the 
 abbot's ploughs and carts. The 
 varying 4 rents and services ' were 
 the grounds of quarrel. The Curfew 
 is still rung here from October to 
 April. 
 
 [Minster is perhaps the most con- 
 venient point from which to reach 
 St. Nicholas at Wade Church — well 
 worth a visit. The high ground 
 toward the centre of Thanet, which 
 will be crossed on the way, com- 
 mands one of the most interesting 
 prospects in England. 
 
 A wooded lane beyond the manor- 
 house leads upward to the higher 
 part of the island, along which ran 
 the line of the Lynch or raised green 
 way, said to mark the course of 
 Domneva's deer, and serving as the 
 boundary of the parish. Some traces 
 of it may perhaps be found near the 
 inn on the hill-top, called Prospect 
 House, but the greater part has been 
 broken up, notwithstanding the old 
 monastic rhyme : — 
 
 'Ciiltor sive sator, hujus metae violator, 
 Cum Thunor atra metit, inde baratra petit.' 
 
 It was known as 4 St. Mildred's 
 Lynch,' she having been patron 
 saint of the district. St. Mildred's 
 rock, with the impression of her foot, 
 was long shown at Ebbe's-fleet (when 
 she took the place of St. Augustine , 
 see post), and she once saved Minster 
 from an attack of Edward I. who 
 had claimed the manor for the crown. 
 Being at Canterbury on St. Mildred's 
 Eve, the king dreamt that he was 
 crossing the straits from Flanders, 
 and that, being overtaken by a great 
 storm, he made for Thanet, but was 
 
ROUTE 7. — THE ISLE OE THANET. 
 
 219 
 
 prevented from landing by a royal 
 virgin, habited like a nun, who ' put 
 off the king's vessel with her staff/ 
 King Edward complained ; but was 
 awakened by the ringing of bells on 
 St. Mildred's morning, whose power 
 he recognised, and abandoned his 
 purpose. Close to Prospect House 
 is Minster Chalkpit, long called Thu- 
 nor's Leap t since it was at this spot 
 that the minister of King Egbert 
 was swallowed up. The king stood 
 close by, says the legend, to see the 
 deer run. Thunor (the thunder) is 
 probably a recollection of the old 
 Northern god so called. In no other 
 instance does it occur among the 
 Anglo-Saxons as the name of a man. 
 {Kemble. ) 
 
 THE ISLE OF THANET. 
 
 The hill beyond Prospect House is 
 one of the highest points in Thanet ; 
 and some general notice of the 
 island may perhaps be most fittingly 
 read here. Tenet — Tanei-lond (Sax. 
 iene, a fire or beacon) — probably re- 
 ceived its name from the many 
 beacons or watch-fires lighted up on 
 this important outpost to give warn- 
 ing of approaching sails, 
 
 'To tell that the ships of the Danes 
 And the red-hair d spoilers were nigh.' 
 
 Its British name was Ruim—& 
 headland (so Rame Head, W. point 
 of Plymouth Sound). Its Roman 
 occupation is proved by the great 
 number of interments and of Roman 
 coins, i bald pennies' as they are 
 called, which have been found here ; 
 and its early Saxon (or Jutish) colony 
 by the extensive cemetery in Osengal 
 Hill, near Ramsgate. The length of 
 the island, between Sarre and the N. 
 Foreland, is 9 m. ; the breadth, at 
 the narrowest part, is 4— between 
 Margate and Sandwich 8. TheWant- 
 sume or sea passage which divided 
 it from the mainland— one- third of 
 a mile wide in Bede's time, and 
 passable only at Sarre and Wade — 
 through which the waters of the 
 Stour anciently passed N. and S. to 
 Richborough and to Reculver (where 
 [Kent] 
 
 the N. mouth of the Wantsume was 
 called the Yenlade), began to dry up 
 at a very early period. It was the 
 general passage for the Danish ships 
 Londonward, after touching at Sand- 
 wich ; but Sandwich harbour and 
 the Wantsume shared the same fate, 
 and became finally closed about 
 1500, nearly at the same time as the 
 Damme inlet (the port of Bruges , 
 on the opposite coast of Flanders, 
 also became impassable. The island 
 seems to have extended much farther 
 seaward in Bede's time, who says 
 it contained land enough for 600 
 families. It now contains about 
 26,000 acres of arable land, and 3,500 
 of marsh and pastures. On the high 
 ground there is at present but little 
 wood ; Domesday, however, mentions 
 1000 acres of forest. The Pop. when 
 Lewis wrote (1723) was 8,800 ; it 
 is now 60,617. The soil is gene- 
 rally light and chalky, and a wet 
 summer, elsewhere a great evil, is 
 here rather longed for. Hence a 
 local proverb — 
 
 'When England wrings 
 The island sings.' 
 
 Yet Thanet is rich and fruitful : 
 
 'Insula rotunda Thanatos quam circuit unda, 
 Fertilis et munda nulli est in orbe secunda ' 
 
 was the inscription which formerly 
 encircled the chancel of Monkton 
 Church in the valley below. Much 
 corn seems to have been grown here 
 at a very early period, — possibly for 
 exportation to the Continent. Solinus 
 calls Thanet ' frumentariis campis 
 felix.' It had been blessed, 1 con- 
 traxit benedictionem,' ever since Au- 
 gustine had first set foot on it. No 
 snake or rat could live within its 
 bounds (fflgden) any more than in 
 Ireland, or in the triangular patch 
 of holy ground between the hills of 
 Glastonbury. 
 
 Until the beginning of the last cen- 
 tury, owing partly to its being difficult 
 of access, and to its lying off the main 
 roads, Thanet was in nearly as wild 
 a state as the remotest parts of Corn- 
 wall. * The inhabitants,' say Cam- 
 den, 1 are a sort of amphibious crea- 
 
 R 
 
220 
 
 ROUTE 7. — THE ISLE OF THANET. 
 
 tures, equally skilled in holding helm 
 and plough/ In Lewis's time (1723) 
 1 they made two voyages a year to 
 the North Seas, and came home from 
 the latter soon enough for the men 
 to go to wheat season, and take a 
 winter thresh, which last they have 
 done time enough to go to sea in the 
 spring.' They were good sailors, 
 but ' it's a thousand pities they are 
 so apt to pilfer stranded ships. This 
 they call Paultring, and of the goods 
 saved they make what they call Quile 
 shares between each other/ There 
 was then a local rhyme which ran 
 thus — 
 
 ' Ramsgate herrings, Peter's lings, 
 Broadstairs scrubs, and Margate kings ' — 
 
 indicating the great poverty of all 
 but the last place, which from its 
 London trade was wealthy. Lewis 
 mentions as a peculiarity of the 
 i Thanet people that they gave to th 
 the sound ofetf,' as ' dat man dere,' 
 for i that man there.' This, however 
 (which was not confined to Thanet, 
 but extended over much of Kent and 
 Sussex), is now greatly changed, 
 together with the ancient farming, 
 which ' cast the straw into the 
 king's highway to make dung.' 
 4 Sainte Foine, or wholesome hay, 
 a French grass,' had just been 
 introduced, in 1720, together with 
 the planting of beans. At present, 
 Thanet is not behind the rest of the 
 world in good farming ; and sundry 
 4 noisome savours,' in which modern 
 agriculture rejoices, — such as that of 
 burning kelp on the shore, which 
 had once been 'cursed out of the 
 country,' — have reappeared, and are 
 very far from bestowing an additional 
 charm on the sea-breezes. Thanet 
 conferred the title of Earl (now ex- 
 tinct) on the family of Tufton ; 
 whose peerage dated from 1628. The 
 island is best reached from London 
 by the Kent Coast line of the L. C. 
 & D. (Rte. 5), through Faversham, 
 the distance being much shorter by 
 that route than by the S. E. line 
 through Ash ford. 
 
 The high ground above Prospect 
 House is interesting, not only from 
 its wide view, but from its having 
 possibly been the scene of one of 
 the most important events in the 
 history of Thanet and of England, 
 the first meeting of Augustine the 
 missionary with King Ethelbert. It 
 is said by Lewis, apparently from 
 old tradition, to have occurred here, 
 under an oak, a sacred tree with 
 Germans as well as Britons. Ethel- 
 bert, after Augustine's landing at 
 Ebbe's Fleet, had ordered him to re- 
 main in Thanet, with the Wantsume, 
 then three 4 furlongs ' broad between 
 the Kentish king and the strangers ; 
 and afterwards arranged that their 
 first conference should take place in 
 the open air, for fear of magical in- 
 fluences. 4 The meeting must have 
 been remarkable. The Saxon King, 
 " son of the ash-tree " (iEscing), with 
 his wild soldiers round, seated on 
 the bare ground on one side — on 
 the other, with a huge silver cross 
 borne before him, and beside it a 
 large picture of Christ painted and 
 gilded, on an upright board, came 
 up from the shore Augustine and 
 his companions ; chanting, as they 
 advanced, a solemn Litany, for them- 
 selves and for those to whom they 
 came. He, as we are told, was a 
 man of almost gigantic stature, head 
 and shoulders taller than any one 
 else ; with him were Lawrence, who 
 afterwards succeeded him as Abp. 
 of Canterbury, and Peter, who be- 
 came the first abbot of St. Augus- 
 tine's. They and their companions, 
 amounting altogether to forty, sat 
 down at the king's command, and 
 the interview began.' — Stanley's 
 Hist. Mem. of Canterbury. After ob- 
 taining the king's consent to their 
 teaching they crossed to Richbo- 
 rough, and so advanced "by the old 
 Roman road to Canterbury. The 
 history of their institutions there lias 
 already been traced (Rte. 3). See 
 post. 
 
 Few prospects are of higher his- 
 torical interest than this from the 
 hills of Thanet. Far and wide, and 
 
ROUTE 7.— MONKTON— SARRE. 
 
 221 
 
 glowing with corn-fields, spreads out 
 the panorama of East Kent, with its 
 old Saxon graveyards and memo- 
 rials. Ebbe's Fleet, where Augustine 
 landed and where Hengist is said 
 to have landed before him, may be 
 traced by its line of trees in the 
 marsh S. Beyond are visible the 
 massive walls of Rutupise (Rich- 
 borough), with the glimmer of the 
 ' Portus Rutupinus ' along the 
 mouth of the ruined harbour of 
 Sandwich. N. are the twin spires of 
 Reculver (Regulbium\ and W. the 
 great towers of Canterbury cathe- 
 dral rise dark against the blue dis- 
 tance. An entire history of England 
 lies open before us. The very 
 changes of the landscape, — the steam 
 of the train, the sea covered with 
 sails, the rich cultivation, — suggest 
 the contrast of that distant time 
 when Augustine landed here ' in 
 finibus mundi,' a messenger to a 
 barbarous people, whose land was 
 covered with thick woods and deso- 
 late marshes, — yet bringing with 
 him the germs of so much coming 
 change and prosperity. 
 
 The church and manor of Monk- 
 ton, seen among the trees below, 
 was granted by Queen Edgifa to Ch. 
 Ch., Canterbury, ' monkis for to 
 feede/ according to the Chapter- 
 house picture. The Ch. has fragments 
 of all periods, and from the exterior 
 arches in the S. wall seems to 
 have been larger. At the W. end 
 were the verses quoted above. The 
 * antient spiral staircase of wood ' 
 mentioned by Hasted does not now 
 exist. There is a monument to 'that 
 modest gentlewoman,' Frances Ble- 
 cheden, 'who enjoyed three hus- 
 bands.' Brass: a priest (perhaps John 
 Spycer, vicar — Haines) in chasuble, 
 1460, a very fine example. The 
 farm adjoining, on the site of the 
 old manor-house, seems still capable 
 of feeding many monks. 
 
 A road over wide open fields leads 
 to St. Nicholas at Wade, where 
 was one of the two fords over the 
 
 Wantsume. It was at first a chapel 
 attached to Reculver, but was after- 
 wards transferred to the monks of 
 Ch. Ch., to whom the erection of 
 the large and interesting Church is 
 owing. The S. side of the nave is late 
 Norm. The three uppermost of the 
 five bays are circ, richly carved. The 
 piers have circ. columns half at- 
 tached, with rich capitals. The piers 
 of the N. aisle are octangular, with 
 moulded capitals E. E. Each aisle 
 terminates in a chancel, parallel with 
 that of the nave, into which the N. 
 chancel opens with two E. E. arches. 
 The windows in all the chancels are 
 Dec, and the great E. window 
 strongly resembles (but is not identi- 
 cal with) the Anselm window in 
 Canterbury Cathedral. The font is 
 E. E. The tower at the end of S. 
 aisle is late Dec, the vaulting having 
 either been destroyed or never 
 finished ; the brackets remain. The 
 nave is flat, and ceiled, and has a 
 chandelier with crown and mitre 
 for weights. In the N. chancel is a 
 good Brass (1559) of Valentine 
 Edvarod, two wives and children. 
 The porch has a parvise chamber. 
 The ch. is built of seaworn flints, 
 with much rough brick ( Roman ? ) 
 interspersed. The eastern dripstones 
 of the tower window, encrusted with 
 nests of the ' temple-haunting 
 martlet/ represent heads of a bishop 
 and prior. The whole building 
 proves the care and expense bestowed 
 by the monks on their off-lying 
 manors. 
 
 From St. Nicholas it is possible to 
 cross the marshes to Reculver, but 
 the way is hard to find without a 
 guide, and not to be recommended. 
 At Sarre in this parish (now an 
 unimportant hamlet, formerly a 
 place of considerable size, as a cross- 
 ing place from the mainland to 
 Thanet) a large number of Roman 
 remains have been from time to 
 time discovered (see p. 160). 
 
 From Minster the rail proceeds, 
 skirting the marshes and passing 
 through a deep cutting in Osengal 
 Hill, with its Saxon cemetery ( post ;, to 
 
 R 2 
 
222 
 
 ROUTE 7 
 
 — RAMSGATE : JACOB'S LADDER. 
 
 St. Lawrence Stat, for Pegwell Bay, 
 see below. 
 
 85I m. RAMSGATE* (Stat. L. 
 C. & D. and the S. E. Rlys). (Pop. 
 24,676.) 
 
 The town of Ramsgate (Ruims 
 Gate, the Gate of Ruim, the British 
 name of Thanet), stands on the top 
 of two chalk cliffs, and in the gate, 
 or gap, or valley between them. 
 There is some reason to believe that 
 there was a British village at Ramsgate 
 in the tinie of the Romans. In a 
 chalk excavation, between the S.E. 
 station and the top of the High 
 Street have been found remains of 
 <rude pottery, bronze articles, and 
 bones of animals used as food, point- 
 ing to this conclusion. 
 
 Ramsgate is a frequented water- 
 ing-place, slightly more aristocratic 
 than Margate, though the difference 
 is not considerable. The season is 
 the latter end of the summer and 
 the autumn, when the demands of 
 lodging-house keepers become ex- 
 travagant. Boarding - houses and 
 lodgings of all kinds abound ; and 
 from the situation of the town, most 
 of them command good sea-views. 
 Every usual sea-side accommodation 
 or amusement is to be found here. 
 The climate is far more bracing than 
 that of the southern coast ; and it 
 is found to have an especially favour- 
 able influence in all cases of scor- 
 butic disorder. 
 
 This place, originally a small fish- 
 ing village, began to increase in im- 
 portance toward the beginning of 
 the 1 8th century, 1 through the suc- 
 cessful trade of its inhabitants to 
 Russia and the east country.' The 
 commencement of its pier in 1750 
 proves that this trade was not then 
 declining. This Pier, which was built 
 chiefly of Purbeck stone, is described 
 by Pennant (1787) as the < finest 
 existing/ and it still ranks among 
 the most important works of its kind. 
 It was built by Smeaton, the en- 
 gineer of the Eddystone Lighthouse, 
 after he had been called in to super- 
 
 intend the works in connection with 
 the harbour. * In carrying out the 
 elongated pier, Smeaton first em- 
 ployed the diving-bell in building 
 the foundations, making use of a 
 square iron chest weighing about \ a 
 
 ton The harbour included an 
 
 area of 42 acres, the piers extending 
 13 10 ft. into the sea, the opening 
 between the pier-heads being 200 ft. 
 in width. The inner basin is used 
 as a wet dock, and also contains a 
 dry dock for the repair of ships. 
 With its many defects, and its limited 
 depth, the harbour is nevertheless 
 the best upon that coast, and in 
 stormy weather affords a refuge to 
 vessels of considerable draught of 
 water that run for protection there at 
 tide time/ — Smiles' Lives of the En- 
 gineers. On the W. pier-head is a 
 lighthouse ; 400 sail have been re- 
 ceived in this harbour at one time. 
 An obelisk near the pier commemo- 
 rates the departure of George IV. 
 from this place for Hanover. 
 
 A tall staircase of timber planted 
 against the face of the cliff, called 
 J aeob's Ladder, formerly led down 
 the W. cliff to the harbour, but is 
 now replaced by a flight of steps. 
 
 Beyond the Crescent on the W. 
 cliff, and close to the sea is St. Au- 
 gustine's — the Gothic villa built by 
 A. W. Pugin, and long his residence. 
 He died here Sept. 14, 1852. The sea 
 and Christian architecture were, in 
 his opinion, 1 the only things worth 
 living for/ He was indifferent to 
 the roughest weather ; and ren- 
 dered frequent help with his own 
 cutter in cases of shipwreck. The 
 R. C. Church adjacent, in which he is 
 buried, though small, is good, and 
 was considered by him as his best 
 work, in which i he was not fettered 
 by employers.' Including the land, 
 it cost about 15,000?. The group 
 of buildings opposite is a monastery, 
 of modern foundation, and not far 
 off is a nunnery. St. George's Church 
 has a prominent tower intended as 
 a beacon to ships at sea. Notice the 
 beautiful painting at the W. end, 
 
ROUTE 7. — ST. LAWRENCE — OSENGAL. 
 
 223 
 
 'the departure of the soul* by 
 Weigall. 
 
 The village of St. Lawrence lies 
 | m. inland. Here is the Junction 
 Station for Pegwell Bay. The Church 
 of this parish, which down to 1836 
 included the town of Ramsgate, has 
 a central Norm, tower, with external 
 arcade. The church was founded 
 in 1062 and named after Lawrence 
 the companion of Augustine, and 
 second Archbishop of Canterbury. 
 In it is a good Brass of Nich. 
 Manston, 1444, with collar of SS ; 
 and another of a lady, circ. 1490. 
 St. Lawrence was at first a chapelry 
 attached to Minster, but was made 
 parochial in 1275. 
 
 At Manston Court, 1 m. N.W., the 
 family of Manston were settled as 
 early as the reign of John. The 
 mansion, which is ancient, has now 
 become a farmhouse. There are 
 considerable remains of the chapel. 
 Somewhat nearer Minster, at Thorn, 
 long the residence of a family of 
 the same name, are parts of a good 
 Dec. house, with some of the original 
 windows remaining. 
 
 Pegwell Bay, famous for shrimps, 
 stretching inland between Ramsgate 
 and Sandwich, is the traditional 
 scene of two famous landings, — that 
 of Hengist and Horsa, and that of 
 St. Augustine in 597. The historical 
 character of the first is very question- 
 able : for ample details of the second, 
 see Stanley's Historical Memorials of 
 Canterbury — ' The Landing of Au- 
 gustine.' The actual spot where the 
 Christian missionaries first set foot 
 on English ground was Ebbe's Fleet 
 (fleet, an inlet of the sea), 1 still the 
 name of a farm-house on a strip of 
 high ground rising out of Minster 
 marsh,' now some distance inland, 
 but evidently at one time a pro- 
 montory running out between the 
 estuary of the Stour and Pegwell 
 Bay. i The tradition that " some 
 landing" took place here is still pre- 
 served at the farm, and the field of 
 clover which rises immediately on its 
 
 N. side is still shown as the spot/ 
 — Stanley. The landing of Augustine 
 is commemorated by a monument 
 erected by the late Earl Granville. 
 The landing of Hengist is also placed 
 at Ebbe's Fleet by the Saxon Chron- 
 icler ; and afterwards St. Mildred, 
 the great saint of Thanet, was said 
 to have left her footmark on a rock 
 there, which, if ever removed, had 
 the power of flying back to it s original 
 place. The mark was also called 
 St. Augustine's, and belongs to a 
 class of superstitions found almost 
 throughout the world. (Compare 
 Adam's footprint in Ceylon, Ma- 
 homet's in the Mosque of Omar, 
 &c.) 1 In later times the footmark 
 became an object of pilgrimage, and 
 a little chapel was built over it.' 
 These several instances prove that 
 Ebbe's Fleet was the ordinary land- 
 ing-place in Thanet. Augustine's 
 subsequent interview with Ethelbert 
 may have taken place here ; but the 
 more probable scene of it, according 
 to local tradition, was the high 
 ground above Minster (ante.) The 
 missionaries at all events crossed 
 from here to Richborough on their 
 first advance to Canterbury. (See 
 Rte. 3.) 
 
 The hill of Osengal, about ij m. 
 W. from Ramsgate, should be visited 
 as well for the sake of its noble view 
 as for the interesting associations 
 connected with the site. In cutting 
 the railway through the chalk of 
 which the hill consists, it was found 
 that the whole of its summit was 
 covered with the graves of the first 
 Saxon settlers in Thanet — about 200 
 of which are supposed to have been 
 destroyed, and their contents thrown 
 carelessly aside, before the attention 
 of the late Mr. Rolfe of Sandwich 
 was called to the spot. He at once 
 obtained exclusive permission to 
 excavate in different parts of the 
 hill ; and numerous graves were 
 opened by him. 
 
 i The graves are dug into the 
 chalk, on an average not more than 
 4 feet deep, and often less. They 
 
224 
 
 ROUTE 7. — OSENGAL— BROADSTAIRS. 
 
 lay apparently in rows, and were no 
 doubt originally covered, like the 
 Saxon graves in other parts of the 
 island, with low mounds or barrows, 
 which have been levelled with the 
 surrounding soil by the action of 
 wind and weather.' The remains 
 found in the graves are all of the 
 heathen period — the latter part of 
 the 5th and 6th cents., 'and illus- 
 trate a period of the history of our 
 island concerning which we have no 
 other authentic record. Their pe- 
 culiar interest arises from the cir- 
 cumstance that it was the custom 
 of the Anglo-Saxons, before their 
 conversion to Christianity, to bury 
 their dead in their best garments, 
 with their arms and personal orna- 
 ments, and with every variety of 
 implement and utensil to which 
 they had shown any attachment.' 
 — Wright. Strings of glass and 
 amber beads, coins (sceattas, and in 
 one instance a fresh and unworn 
 gold Byzantine coin of the Em- 
 peror Justin, who reigned 518-27), 
 brooches, and weapons (spear-heads, 
 swords, knives, and fragments of 
 shields), are the principal objects 
 found. In one grave was discovered 
 i a beautiful pair of bronze scales, 
 delicately shaped, and a complete 
 set of weights formed out of Roman 
 coins. Some few of the graves are 
 decidedly Roman — and in these the 
 interment has been made in the 
 Roman and not in the Saxon man- 
 ner — indicating that ' a Roman and 
 a Saxon population lived simul- 
 taneously, and probably mixed to- 
 gether, in the Isle of Thanet.' 
 
 At whatever period the interments 
 commenced here, they must have 
 been continued up to the time of 
 Ethelbert — a fact which gives an 
 additional interest to his interview 
 with Augustine, which, whether it 
 occurred at Ebbe's Fleet or above 
 Minster, must have taken place in 
 full view of the great Saxon ceme- 
 tery where the i followers of Hengist 
 and Horsa' had been interred for 
 at least two cents. The view from 
 Osengal, in all its main features, 
 
 resembles that already noticed above 
 Minster— 'a noble burial-place for 
 men whose birthright it was to play 
 with the ocean, and who had so 
 recently made themselves masters 
 of the valleys that lay extended 
 below.' (Wright, Wanderings of an 
 Antiquary ; where will be found an 
 interesting account of these graves, 
 and of the discoveries made in 
 them.) 
 
 At East Cliff ( J. S. Montefiore, Esq.\ 
 \ m. N. E. from Ramsgate, some re- 
 markable passages have been cut in 
 the chalk, leading from the upper 
 cliffs to the shore. Near here, at 
 Hereson, is a Synagogue, close to 
 which is the Mausoleum, containing 
 the remains of the late Sir Moses 
 Montefiore and his wife ; and a 
 Hebrew Theological College, 
 containing a valuable Theological 
 library, a collection of the testi- 
 monials presented to the late Sir 
 Moses Montefiore, and many valuable 
 works of art. 
 
 Broadstairs,* 3 m. N. E. from 
 Ramsgate (Pop. 5,266% a station 
 of the L. C. & D. Railway, 
 much quieter than either Rams- 
 gate or Margate, is in many 
 respects preferable as a bathing- 
 place. The sands are firm and 
 good ; and from the parade on the 
 cliffs above, the sea-view is grand 
 and unbroken, except by the line of 
 the French coast S. Lodgings are 
 good and plenty, and all other con- 
 veniences are amply supplied. 
 
 The breadth of its sea-gate gave 
 name to Broadstairs. This passage 
 was defended by strong doors within 
 a stone portal arch, some part of 
 which remains. A little above was 
 a chapel dedicated to 1 Our Lady of 
 Broadstairs,' of so great reputation 
 that ships lowered their topsails in 
 sailing by it. (Some part of this 
 chapel is retained in the present 
 Baptist Meeting-house.) The cod 
 fisheries of Iceland and the North- 
 ern Seas were greatly frequented 
 about 1759 by vessels from Broad- 
 
ROUTE 7. BROADSTAIRS — MARGATE. 
 
 225 
 
 stairs, owing to which the prosperity 
 of the place rapidly increased. The 
 prominent pile of buildings W. of the 
 town is the Convalescent Home, 
 for the reception of the invalid 
 children of the London poor, erected 
 and maintained by the Church 
 Extension Association. 
 
 i|m. inland from Broadstairs is 
 St. Peter's — like St. Lawrence, at 
 first a chapelry to Minster, and 
 afterwards made parochial. (Pop. 
 2,250.) The Church (restored 1859) 
 dates from the 12th cent., with 
 additions to the end of the 16th, 
 when the conspicuous flint tower 
 was built, which up to the date of 
 its restoration in 1887 retained the 
 two fissures caused by an earthquake 
 in 1580. Brasses: Rich. Colmer, 
 ' carpentarius,' 1485, and wife ; Nich. 
 Esstone, 1503, and wife. In the 
 churchyard is the headstone of 
 Richard Joy, called the Kentish 
 Samson, whose feats of strength 
 were the marvel of all this district 
 in the early part of the last century. 
 Among them, he is said to have 
 pulled successively against a horse 
 of unusual power, to have lifted a 
 weight of 2240 lbs., and to have 
 broken a rope capable of supporting 
 35 cwt. He died in 1742, at the age 
 of 65. He had a sister who is said 
 to have rivalled him in his powers. 
 
 St. Peter's has many pleasant 
 houses scattered about it, and the 
 situation is altogether agreeable. 
 Lowell Hill, in this parish, is the 
 highest ground in Thanet. 
 
 From Ramsgate the line continues 
 across the island to 
 
 89} m. MARGATE * (Stat.) (Pop. 
 18,419^. Also two stations on L. C. 
 & D. R. 
 
 Of all English 1 Abigails in cast 
 gowns,' as Horace Walpole calls 
 watering-places * that mimic the 
 capital,' Margate is perhaps the 
 least aristocratic, though, perhaps, 
 not the least amusing. Like 
 Brighton, it is completely a suburb 
 of London ; and a fluctuating popu- 
 
 lation of between 50,000 and 100,000 
 is poured into it during the season 
 by railway and steamers, to which 
 latter Margate is indebted for its 
 prosperity ; since all the modern 
 buildings and accommodation of the 
 place date from their first intro- 
 duction here about 30 years since. 
 Margate, however, began to be 
 sought as a bathing-place toward 
 the middle of the last century ; its 
 firm and smooth sands being a great 
 attraction. It used to be thought 
 that bathing-machines were used 
 here for the first time in England, 
 to wit about 1790 ; but that honour 
 seems to belong to Scarborough (see 
 Universal Magazine, 1761). At any 
 rate, Benjamin Beale, a Quaker, an 
 inhabitant of Margate, assisted in 
 popularising them, and ruined him- 
 self in doing so. (Hasted.) 
 
 The mortality rate tables show 
 Margate to be one of the healthiest 
 places in Britain. 
 
 The gate or sea passage lay 1 close 
 to a little mere (used in this part of 
 Kent to signify a streamlet), called 
 u the Brooks ;"' hence the name Mere- 
 gate or Margate. The original vil- 
 lage was called St. John's, and clus- 
 tered about the old Church of St. 
 John, at the S. end of Margate. The 
 houses, like those of Flemish and 
 Scots fishing towns, were generally 
 of one storey ; but the village was 
 early in repute ' for fishery and coast- 
 ing trade,' and most of the corn 
 grown in the Island was brought 
 here for conveyance to London. 
 There was a wooden pier at Margate 
 long before the reign of Henry VIII., 
 when Leland describes it as 'sore 
 decayed.' 
 
 The passage from England to 
 Holland used frequently to be made 
 from this place. The Elector Pala- 
 tine, and the Princess Elizabeth, his 
 wife, daughter of James I., embarked 
 from here. William III. more than 
 once sailed from Margate ; and 1 that 
 successful and victorious general, the 
 late Duke of Marlborough, used to 
 choose this for his place of going 
 abroad and landing, when he went 
 
226 
 
 ROUTE 7 . — MARGATE — HENGROVE. 
 
 and came to and from the several 
 campaigns he made/ — Pennant. 
 
 The existing pier of Whitby stone, 
 was completed by the engineer 
 John Rennie, in 1815. This and 
 the J etty are the Grand Promenades 
 of Margate, where the peculiarities 
 of the place may be thoroughly 
 studied. Visitors are admitted to 
 the lighthouse on the pier, and the 
 view from its summit will repay the 
 labour of mounting. A small ob- 
 servatory tower over the Sailors' 
 Reading Room may also be ascended; 
 this too commands a good view. 
 
 All the usual watering-place re- 
 sources abound in Margate. The 
 Museum of the Literary Institu- 
 tion, in Hawley Square, was sold in 
 1867. 
 
 St. John's Church has Norm. 
 
 portions, and is rich in Brasses, 
 some of which have been restored, 
 but indifferently : Nich. Canteys, 
 1431, with flowing beard and 
 anelace ; a heart and scrolls for 
 Thos. Smyth, vicar, 1433 ; John 
 Parker, 1441, and wife ; Peter Stone, 
 1442, with anelace ; John Daunde- 
 lyon (the last male of his house\ 
 1445 ; Rich. Notfelde (a skeleton), 
 1446 ; Thos. Cardiff, vicar for 55 
 years, 15 15. The five bells are 
 famous. On the fourth is the in- 
 scription, ' Missi de coelis habeo 
 nomen Gabrielis.' On the 5th, or 
 tenor, ' Daundeleon, I.H.S. ; Trini- 
 tati sacra, sit hsec campana beata/ 
 These two bells were cast by the 
 same founder, probably a Fleming. 
 The traditional rhyme concerning 
 the latter runs thus : — 
 
 ' John de Daundelyon with his great Dog, 
 Brought over this bell on a mill cog.' 
 
 The 1 Dog' is explained as the name 
 of the vessel in which the bell was 
 conveyed. 
 
 Daundelyon, the ancient manor of 
 this family, lies about ij m. W. of 
 Margate. It was long converted 
 into a tea-garden from which degra- 
 dation it has been happily rescued. 
 Of the older mansion the gateway 
 
 alone remains, dating from about 
 the reign of Henry IV. It is built 
 of flint and brick in alternate rows, 
 with loopholes and battlements 
 above. Over the main gate are the 
 arms of Dent de Lyon, which family 
 was established here before the time 
 of Edward I. Underneath the rt. 
 side of this gate was discovered 
 toward the end of the 17th cent., 
 what seems to have been a Roman 
 sepulchral deposit of unusual im- 
 portance. The urns and glass 
 vessels were arranged in a 'room 
 large enough to hold 8 or 10 persons.' 
 (Lewis's Thanet) 
 
 [From Daundelyon the tourist 
 may proceed to Birchington, Rte. 5 
 (a station of the L. C. & D. Rly. 
 3J m. W, of Margate), and return 
 to Margate by Hengrove and 
 Salmeston.] 
 
 ^ Great Quex (H. H. P. Cotton, Esq.\ 
 S. of the ch., was the seat of the 
 Quekes or Quex family from the 
 beginning of the 15th cent. The 
 Crispes succeeded them here, 
 through intermarriage with an 
 heiress, temp. Hen. VII. In 1657, 
 during the Protectorate, Henry 
 Crispe of Quex, a person of con- 
 siderable importance, and a Puritan, 
 was carried off from his own house 
 here by Captain Golding, a sanguine 
 royalist, and long detained prisoner 
 at Ostend and Bruges. It was at the 
 old house here, which was of brick 
 and partly timbered, that William 
 III. was in the habit of resting 
 before and after his passages to 
 Holland. The present house is 
 modern, and the two towers in the 
 park are good sea-marks. One of 
 them contains a peal of 12 bells, in 
 whose sweet tones the original pro- 
 prietor greatly delighted. 
 
 At Hengrove (1 m. S.E. of Daun- 
 delyon) are some slight remains of 
 a chapel attached to the manor. 
 Salmeston, beyond, about | m. from 
 Margate, was a grange belonging to 
 St. Augustine's, Canterbury. It is 
 now a farm-house ; but great part 
 
ROUTE 7. — KINGSGATE — NORTH FORELAND. 227 
 
 of the original buildings, temp. 
 Edw. II., remain, and are interest- 
 ing. The two wings contain a hall 
 and chapel— the windows in both 
 of which display their original form 
 and tracery. The chapel roof, with 
 a king-post, open to the rafters, is 
 good Dec. On the N. side of the 
 chapel is a building now called the 
 Infirmary — Dec, with tolerable 
 2-light windows. From the court- 
 yard, E. of the chapel, there is an 
 entrance leading to a small crypt. 
 (.7. II. Parker.) Beyond Salmeston, 
 and closely adjoining Margate, is 
 Draper's Hospital, founded 1709, 
 by a Quaker named Michael Yokely. 
 The overseer was to be a Quaker, 
 4 with a conveniency by his dwelling 
 for a meeting-house/ The inscrip- 
 tion over the door indicates that the 
 versifying powers of the Society of 
 Friends were as yet undeveloped. 
 The original scale of the institution 
 has been much enlarged of late 
 years. 
 
 At Kash Court, now a farm-house, 
 1 m. S. of Margate, are some por- 
 tions of i4th-cent. work. 
 
 The excursion to Reculver (Rte. 
 5) may be made from Margate very 
 pleasantly by water. 
 
 Kingsgate, a pass to the sea about 
 3 m. S.E. of Margate, was so called 
 from its having been in 1683 the 
 landing-place of Charles II. and 
 James Duke of York in their way 
 from London to Dover. Its former 
 name was St. Bartholomew's Gate. 
 No vestiges remain of the gate and 
 portcullis which once guarded the 
 pass. Above the gate a mansion 
 was built 1760, by Henry Fox, 1st 
 Lord Holland, ' to represent Tully's 
 Formian Villa,' which was the sub- 
 ject of an epigram by Gray — 
 
 ' Old, and abandon'd by e:\ch venal friend, 
 Here H — d formed the pious resolution 
 
 To smuggle a few years, and strive to mend 
 A broken character and constitution.' 
 
 The villa was full of true antiquities, 
 and round it were erected a variety 
 of false ones, which are happily fast 
 disappearing. The ' Convent/ the 
 
 most important among them, has 
 been converted into a private resi- 
 dence. The ' Castle/ originally in- 
 tended for stables to the villa, has 
 shared the same fate. 4 Harley 
 Tower, built in the style of Koman 
 architecture in honour of Thomas 
 Harley, Lord Mayor of London/ 
 has been considerably heightened, 
 and now serves as a landmark. 
 From its shape it is commonly styled 
 the Candlestick Tower, — an exceed- 
 ingly appropriate name. Not far 
 from here is Stonehouse, the favourite 
 residence of Archbishop Tait. Here 
 is the Orphanage established by 
 Mrs. Tait. 
 
 At Hackendown Banks, a short 
 distance S. of Kingsgate, two large 
 tumuli were long pointed out as the 
 graves of Danes and Saxons killed 
 in a fierce battle on this spot. They 
 were opened by Lord Holland, 
 and numerous remains discovered, 
 though of what period seems un- 
 certain. The circular tower which 
 now marks the spot was erected by 
 Lord Holland, whose inscription 
 gives 800 as the traditional date of 
 the battle. 
 
 I m. beyond is the North Fore- 
 land, with its lighthouse, which 
 may be ascended. There was a 
 rude timbered lighthouse here very 
 early — a beacon for steering clear of 
 the Goodwins. This was burnt 
 down about 1683, when the present 
 building was erected. On the top 
 was at first an iron grate, open to 
 the air, with a coal-fire. The ar- 
 rangements of the present lantern, 
 with its reflectors and comparatively 
 small lights, are well worth inspect- 
 ing. The ancient beacon-fire could 
 hardly have been so effective as its 
 successor, which is visible at the 
 Nore, a distance of 30 m. It is 63 
 ft. high. 
 
 The North Foreland is the Canitum 
 of Ptolemy. Off it June 1-4, 1666, 
 occurred the great sea-fight, last- 
 ing four days, in which the English 
 were commanded by Prince Eupert 
 and Monk, the Dutch by De Ruyter 
 
228 
 
 ROUTE 8. — LONDON TO TUNBKIDGE. 
 
 and De Witt. On this occasion the 
 English fleet, of 54 sail, had encoun- 
 tered the Dutch, of 80. Victory 
 finally remained with the Dutch, 
 yet the English lost no honour. 
 ' They may be killed/ said De Witt, 
 i but they will not be conquered.' 
 On the 25th July another action was 
 fought, in which the English were 
 victorious. 
 
 The walk round the coast from 
 Margate by Kingsgate and Broad- 
 stairs to Ramsgate may be recom- 
 mended as a very pleasant one. 
 
 Another easy excursion from Mar- 
 gate is by coach to Canterbury. 
 Coaches run thither every day 
 through Birchington and Sarre. 
 Fare for the double journey 2s. 6d. 
 
 ROUTE 8. 
 
 LONDON TO TUNBRIDGE AND 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS DIRECT, BY 
 [bromley] CHISLEHURST AND 
 SEVENOAKS [KNOLE, CHEVEN- 
 ING, IGHTHAM]. 
 
 (South Eastern Railway.) 
 
 29} m., or 13 m. less than the old 
 route by Redhill and Penshurst. 
 
 Termini, Charing Cross, Cannon 
 Street, and London Bridge. This is 
 now the chief highway and mail 
 route to the Continent. The London, 
 Chatham, and Dover Ely. has also a 
 branch line to Sevenoaks, Rte. 8a. 
 
 This line, opened May 1868, oc- 
 cupied several years in construction, 
 and cost not less than a million 
 sterling, not only from the vastness 
 of the works — cuttings, banks, and 
 tunnels — but also from the exactions 
 of some of the owners of land through 
 which it passes. It begins at the 
 junction of the North and Mid-Kent 
 lines with the Greenwich Rly., a 
 little beyond the Surrey Canal, 
 which it crosses. New and distinct 
 lines of rail have been laid for it 
 through the 
 
 New Cross (Stat.), to St. John's, 
 after passing which it leaves the N. 
 Kent line and reaches Grove Park. 
 Here the line through Plaistow to 
 Bromley (Rte. 3) branches off. After 
 passing through a tunnel the line 
 crosses a small 'stream (the Kid ?), 
 one of the tributaries to the river 
 Ravensbourne, spanned by a single- 
 arched bridge of very early date. 
 
 After passing through Bickley 
 Tunnel (964 yards), Bickley Park is 
 seen rt. 
 
 11 m. (from Charing Cross termi- 
 nus) Chislehurst (Stat. ) 
 
 1. Near the station is Camden Park, 
 a collection of villa residences, oc- 
 cupying outlying portions of the 
 Camden Place estate, which was for- 
 merly the summer residence of the 
 antiquary Camden — Ben Jonson's 
 
 * . . . most reverend head, to whom I owe 
 All that I am in arts, all that I know. 
 How nothing's that ! to whom my country 
 owes 
 
 The great renown and name wherewith she 
 goes ! ' 
 
 Camden Place was named by Camden, 
 who first purchased it in 1609. He 
 is said to have written his ' Annals 
 of Queen Elizabeth ' here ; and he 
 certainly died here in 1623 ; he was 
 interred inWestmi nster Abbey. Lord 
 Chancellor Pratt was raised to the 
 peerage in 1765 by the title of Baron 
 Camden of Camden Place, which was 
 sold by his son and successor. Here 
 the Ex-Emperor Napoleon III. came 
 to reside with his family in 1871, 
 after the termination of the Franco- 
 German War, and here he died in 
 1873. His remains are deposited in 
 an elegant mortuary Chapel attached 
 to the R. C. ch. of St. Mary, reached 
 by a lane directly opposite the ch. 
 They rest in a granite sarcophagus, 
 the gift of Queen Victoria. 
 
 Throughout this district the re- 
 markable chalk-pits, already noticed 
 at E. Tilbury (Kte. 1) and at Cray- 
 ford and Dartford (Rte. 6), are fre- 
 quent. They are here called £ draw- 
 pits,' and resemble very closely those 
 already described, being circular, 
 well-like excavations, from 20 to 50 
 
ROUTE 8. — CHISLEHURST. 
 
 229 
 
 feet in depth, and expanding at the 
 bottom, or running out into short 
 passages. They are here very nu- 
 merous, and their situations so little 
 known that accidents are not unfre- 
 quently caused by them. In the 
 summer of 1857 one of these pits in 
 the lower part of Camden Park, 
 which had become filled up by sur- 
 face drainage, was excavated with 
 great care, in the hope of throwing 
 borne light on its history. The dia- 
 meter of the aperture measured 11 
 feet, and its height 17 feet, with a 
 slightly concave base, circular and 
 tool-cut. At the bottom was dis- 
 covered a mass of bones of animals 
 of various species, among which were 
 some entire skeletons, one of the 
 horse, others of the pig and ox (the 
 head appearing to be that of Bos 
 longifrons), several dogs, and some 
 wolves (the jaws distinguishing them 
 from the dog). Jaws of deer and roe, 
 and a few delicate and perfect skulls 
 of the hedgehog, were also found ; 
 and throughout the mass great quan- 
 tities of freshwater shells [Helix 
 nemoralis). All were the bones of 
 existing races, excepting that sup- 
 posed to be Bos longifrons', but from 
 their decomposing state when sub- 
 mitted to the action of the atmo- 
 sphere, it was clear that they had 
 rested where they were found for 
 centuries. Immediately above the 
 bones, masses of squared chalk and 
 large flint were found, thus leading 
 to the conclusion that the various 
 animals, in traversing the woods, 
 had fallen in through the aperture, 
 and that after a lapse Of time the 
 steining of the pit had given way 
 and buried their skeletons. Among 
 the bones were discovered six dis- 
 tinct portions of early pottery, Brit- 
 ish and Roman, together with a 
 fragment of red Samian ware. The 
 very early origin of these pits is thus 
 satisfactorily established, although 
 their purpose still remains uncer- 
 tain. (See Arch. Cant, vol. i.) 
 
 The town of CHISLEHURST 
 
 v Sax. Ceosil, a pebble; the 'stony-hurst' 
 
 or wood) (Pop. 4.309' is situated, 
 J m. from stat., on one of the most 
 beautiful commons in Kent, covered 
 with furze and heather, surrounded 
 by magnificent trees, and about 300 
 ft. above the sea. Near the ch. are 
 the remains of the ancient cockpit, 
 where cock-fights took place, and 
 other now obsolete games were 
 played. Here also the maypole 
 probably stood. The Church, dedi- 
 cated to St. Nicholas, is a most pic- 
 turesque object, chiefly Perp., the 
 N. wall and font being E. E. The 
 chancel was rebuilt in 1849, and a 
 new S. aisle added. The spire and 
 bells were destroyed by fire in 
 March, 1857, brrt have since been 
 restored. Of the Monuments, remark 
 that of Sir Edmund (d. 1549) and 
 Sir Thomas Walsingham (d. 1630', 
 erected by the last before his death 
 to the memory of his father, sir 
 Edmund, and also serving as his 
 own monument. The tomb is de- 
 corated with gilt foliage, and a ca- 
 nopy. A poetical inscription under 
 the first arch indicates that Sir 
 Thomas was but an indifferent versi- 
 fier : the first lines run — 
 
 1 A knight, sometime of worthie fame, 
 
 Lyeth buried under this stonie bower ; 
 Sir Edmund Walsingham was his name, 
 Lieutenant lie was of London Tower.' 
 
 The Walsinghams (who had, how- 
 ever, before this been resident at 
 Chislehurst) received a lease of the 
 manor from Elizabeth, and Sir Fran- 
 cis Walsingham, the great statesman, 
 was born here in 1536. The Walsing- 
 ham tomb is at the end of the N. 
 aisle ; and over the arch dividing it 
 from the nave are the cognizances 
 of Edward IV. (the falcon and fetter- 
 lock) and of Henry VII. (the rose 
 and crown). In the S. aisle is the 
 monument of Sir Philip Warwick, 
 ' an acceptable servant to Charles I. 
 in all his extremities, and a faithful 
 one to King Charles II.' After his 
 retirement from public affairs in 
 1667, he fixed his residence at Frog- 
 nal, near Chislehurst, where he died 
 in 1682. His Memoirs of Charles I. 
 
230 ROUTE 8. — ORPINGTON — DUNTON GREEN. 
 
 rank among the most valuable and 
 authentic records of the time; 
 
 The ch. contains numerous other 
 monuments, but of no great interest. 
 There is a Brass, now mural, for 
 Alan Porter, rector, 1482, a half- 
 effigy. In the churchyard, which 
 contains some very fine trees, is the 
 tomb of Mr. Bonar, a London mer- 
 chant, who was murdered here in 
 1 8 13, with his wife, by their servant. 
 The font is said to be of 12th cent. 
 In the Scadbury Chantry are the 
 burial-places of the Townsends, Earls 
 Sydney. In St. Mary's (R. C. ) church 
 are memorials to the late Emperor 
 Napoleon III. and the young Prince 
 Imperial. 
 
 Sir Nicholas Bacon, the Lord 
 Keeper, and father of the great 
 Lord Verulam, another Elizabethan 
 worthy, was born here, probably in 
 1509. (Foss.) 
 
 Frognal, Sir Philip Warwick's an- 
 cient place, a very plain red-brick 
 house, is now the seat of Earl Syd- 
 ney, in whose family it has been 
 since 1760. The whole neighbour- 
 hood is very pleasant and pictur- 
 esque ; abounding in the green 
 wooded hills that make one of the 
 especial beauties of Kent. 
 
 The engineering works between 
 Chislehurst and Tunbridge are not 
 surpassed in magnitude by any in 
 the S. of England. 
 
 Through deep cuttings the rly. 
 reaches 
 
 14 m. Orpington (Stat.). 
 
 Orpington Church, has Norm, por- 
 tions, but is mainly E. E., and con- 
 tains some carved woodwork. Brasses : 
 Thomas Wilkynson, rector, 15 11, in 
 cope ; a priest, circ. 1522. The springs 
 of the Cray at Orpington are numerous, 
 and often rise so high as to flood the 
 village. From St. Mary Cray N. the 
 stream runs through a valley of 
 much quiet beauty ; and its trout 
 are said to be the best in this part 
 of Kent. The Priory (Major B. J. 
 Lake) has been in existence since 
 
 1032. The oldest part of the pre- 
 sent building was erected in 1393. 
 The mullioned windows, the old hall, 
 and the tapestry hangings are spe- 
 cially noteworthy. 
 
 Along an embankment, 78 ft. high, 
 and through cutting in the chalk, to 
 
 15J; m. Chelsfield (Stat.) 
 
 In the Church, is an elaborate 
 monument for Peter Collet, alderman 
 of London, d. 1607 ; and a coped tomb, 
 with brasses of the Virgin and St. 
 John, for Robert de Brun, rector, 
 141 7. (Brasses: William Robroke, 
 rector, 1420 ; Alicia, wife of Thomas 
 Bray, and four sons, 15 10.) Here are 
 the tombs (i5th-i6th cent.) of a 
 father, son, and grandson who suc- 
 ceeded each other as rectors. 
 
 Chelsfield Tunnel, \ mile long, cut- 
 ting through the N. Downs, is no 
 sooner passed than a view opens 1. 
 upon the vale of Darent, Eynsford, 
 and the L. C. & D. branch-line to 
 Seven oaks. (Rte. 8a.) 
 
 17 m. Halstead (Stat.) has a 
 modern church in the cemetery, 
 opposite Halstead Place, seat of T. 
 B. Atkins, Esq., contains some 15th 
 cent, brasses, a good carved reredos. 
 
 1 1 m. rt. rises the clump of the 
 Knoekholt beeches ; a landmark 
 for all the country round about, and 
 visible from the Crystal Palace at 
 Sydenham, from Harrow in Middle- 
 sex, and from Leith Hill in Surrey. 
 From it the dome of St. Paul's is 
 visible on a clear day. The Church 
 of Knoekholt dates from the end of 
 Henry III.'s reign, when it was 
 built by a certain Ralph Scot, who 
 had fixed his i hall ' there. It con- 
 tains no monuments of importance. 
 
 Polehill Tunnel is 2530 yards or 
 nearly if m. long. 
 
 19^ m. Dunton Green (Stat.) is 
 £ im from Riverhead, 1 m. from 
 Chipstead, and 2 m. from Cheven- 
 ing. From Dunton Green junction 
 a branch line runs to Brasted and 
 Westerham. These are described 
 on p. 243 among excursions from 
 Sevenoaks. 
 
ROUTE 8. — SEVENOAKS — KNOLE. 
 
 231 
 
 22 m. SEVENOAKS* (Stat.l at 
 Tub's Hill S.W. of the town (Pop. 
 7,514.) In its vicinity are many fine 
 seats, as Wildcrnesse (Sir C. H. Mills, 
 Bt., M.P.), Montreal (Earl Amherst), 
 Bradboum Park (Mrs. Crawshay), 
 Chipstead Place, and above all Knole. 
 
 The most obvious derivation of 
 the name Sevenoaks has been 
 questioned ; but it is countenanced 
 by the frequent references in early 
 charters to trees as boundaries and 
 landmarks— ' seven ashes,' i three 
 thorns/ 'nine elms'; and by the 
 occurrence of a similar name in 
 Germany : Hartmann von Siebeneich 
 is mentioned in connexion with 
 Frederick Barbarossa ; and it may 
 be mentioned that the very plebeian 
 name of Snooks is a mere corruption 
 of Sevenoaks, for it may be traced in 
 family papers through its various 
 stages of degradation. 
 
 The town stands pleasantly on 
 high ground, in the midst of fine 
 and varied scenery, and is a centre 
 from which very interesting excur- 
 sions may be made {post). Lodgings 
 and furnished houses are to be had 
 at moderate rates during the 
 summer. 
 
 Sevenoaks itself is of considerable 
 antiquity ; but contains little of in- 
 terest. About 1 m. beyond the 
 town, on the Tunbridge road, nearly 
 opposite the White Hart Inn, rt., 
 are seven trees traditionally said to 
 represent the oaks which first gave 
 name to the town. 
 
 The Church, at the S. end of 
 Sevenoaks, is conspicuous from all 
 the surrounding country. It is 
 mainly Perp., and has a crown- 
 shaped turret, at the N.E. angle of 
 the tower. There are monuments 
 for some of the Amherst family ; 
 and in the N. chancel one for Wil- 
 liam Lambarde, the i perambulator 
 of Kent, and the father of county 
 historians' (d. 1601), removed hither 
 from Greenwich after the destruc- 
 tion of the ch. there, when the old 
 ch. was pulled down. The ch.-yard 
 contains a large number of stately 
 
 tombs, particularly a cluster on the 
 N. side of the ch. Notice one to a 
 lady whose children are said to have 
 'gone before, to welcome her to 
 heaven.' 
 
 The well - known Grammar 
 School and Almshouses are 
 
 nearly opposite the ch. and were 
 rebuilt in 1727. Both were founded 
 by William Sevenokes, Lord Mayor 
 of London, temp. Hen. V., who was 
 discovered when an infant in the 
 hollow of a tree near this place 
 (hence his name), and subsequently 
 ran the career of Hogarth's virtuous 
 apprentice. Brought up by charit- 
 able persons, he left his own fortune 
 in charity. Various benefactions 
 were made after his death to the 
 school, which was entitled 'The 
 Grammar School of Queen Eliza- 
 beth,' by her Majesty's letters pa- 
 tent, and received at the same time 
 its common seal, representing a 
 formidable pedagogue with book 
 and birch. Geo. Grote, the his- 
 torian of Greece, went to school 
 here. It is now of some reputation, 
 and has many exhibitions attached 
 to it. 
 
 One of the most interesting places 
 in Kent is 
 
 KNOLE (Baron Sackville, who in- 
 herited it from his mother, Baroness 
 Buckhurst), the park gates of which 
 are nearly opposite the ch. A drive 
 of about I m. through groves of 
 noble trees, and over undulating 
 ground, where the deer are seen 
 quietly feeding, or half shrouded in 
 the deep fern, leads to the house, 
 which is open to the public on Fri- 
 days and Bank Holidays. 
 
 Knole was one of the 16 palaces 
 at one time possessed by the see of 
 Canterbury ; that of Otford, at least 
 equally large, being barely 4 m. dis- 
 tant. It was purchased in 1456 
 from Lord Saye and Sele, by Abp. 
 Bourchier, who inclosed the park, 
 rebuilt the house, and left the whole 
 to the see, dying here in i486. Car- 
 dinal Morton, his successor, added 
 
232 
 
 ROUTE 8. — KNOLE 
 
 BROWN GALLERY. 
 
 largely to the palace, received visits 
 here from Henry VII., and died 
 here in 1500. Abp. Warham enter- 
 tained Henry VIII. at Knole in 
 1509 and 15 14, but chiefly resided 
 at Otford. Cranmer, who lived here 
 occasionally, resigned the place to 
 Henry VIII. The estate passed 
 through the usual succession of 
 royal favourites — Elizabeth herself 
 visiting ' her house at Knole ' in 
 1573 — until it finally (1603) fell into 
 the possession of Thomas Sackville, 
 Earl of Dorset, and Lord Treasurer. 
 It was alienated for a short time, 
 and repurchased in the reign of 
 Charles II. ; but with that excep- 
 tion it has remained in the family, 
 and is now the seat of Lord Sack- 
 ville, G.C.M.G. 
 
 From the almost unaltered cha- 
 racter of its fittings and decora- 
 tions, Knole is one of the most 
 interesting baronial mansions in 
 England. The furniture through- 
 out dates from the reigns of James 
 I. and Charles I., and still exhibits, 
 as when Walpole visited it, i ancient 
 magnificence : loads of portraits, not 
 good nor curious ; ebony cabinets ; 
 embossed silver in vases, dishes, 
 &c. ; embroidered beds, stiff chairs, 
 and sweet bags lying on velvet 
 tables, richly worked in silk and 
 gold.' The assemblage of historical 
 portraits, in spite of Walpole's de- 
 traction, and although many are 
 copies, people the venerable rooms 
 very strikingly. The house was 
 thoroughly refitted, 1605-7 by 
 Thomas first Earl of Dorset, and the 
 character of that age is impressed 
 both on the building itself (which 
 he altered and added to) and on the 
 furniture and tapestry. About 17 
 rooms are shown. The family in- 
 habit a modernised suite of apart- 
 ments in the W. front, which are 
 not shown. 
 
 The principal, or TsT.W. front 
 
 is composed of a central gatehouse, 
 with a long range of gables and un- 
 relieved wall. The windows are 
 square-headed. The general effect 
 
 is collegiate— a character which may 
 have been derived from the early 
 proprietors of Knole. The fine gate- 
 way with double arch in the first 
 court (which is carpeted with green- 
 sward, and 'has a beautiful, decent 
 simplicity that charms one' — Wal- 
 pole) is thought to have been built 
 by Abp. Bourchier (1454-86), and 
 the oriel window over it contains 
 his crest in the glass (a falcon, with 
 Bourchier's knot). The second, or 
 paved court, is fronted with a poor 
 Ionic colonnade, beneath which you 
 enter the Great Hall, altered, 
 roofed, and fitted up by Thomas Sack- 
 ville, Lord Buckhurst (the poet), 
 afterwards first Earl of Dorset, to 
 whom the estate was giv^en by Queen 
 Elizabeth. It is 75 ft. long and 
 27 high, with a flat roof and a dais. 
 The fireplace at the side contains 
 the ornamental fire-dogs bearing the 
 arms (and initials H.A.) of Henry 
 VIII. and Anne Boleyn, brought 
 from Hever Castle. At the lower 
 end runs a music-gallery of elabo- 
 rately carved wood, rich in orna- 
 ment. On the dais is placed a fine 
 antique statue, called Demosthenes, 
 though by some supposed to repre- 
 sent Pythagoras. ' It is in excellent 
 preservation, only the hands and 
 portions of the feet being new.' 
 Remark the skill with which the 
 drapery is disposed. This figure was 
 bought in Italy for 700Z. by the 
 third Earl of Dorset. Another (the 
 nymph Egeria) is of inferior excel- 
 lence. Of the pictures, remark — 
 
 George IV., Lawrence ; Countess of 
 Monmouth, Mytens ; Lord Somers, 
 Lionel Duke of Dorset, Kneller ; Duke 
 d'Epernon, A. More ; Death of Marc 
 Antony, Dance ; Animals, Snyder s ; 
 Bacchanals, Rubens; and a curious 
 picture of the Arundel family. 
 
 A small but quaintly ornamented 
 staircase leads to the Brown Gal- 
 lery, hung with a set of historical 
 portraits, chiefly of the reigns of 
 Henry VIII. , Elizabeth, and James 
 I., for the most part copies by one 
 and the same hand. 'They seem/ 
 says Walpole, ' to have been bespoke 
 
ROUTE 8. — knole: ball-room. 
 
 233 
 
 by the yard, and drawn all by the 
 same painter.' There are, however, 
 some exceptions, such as — Cromwell, 
 by Walker. Queen Elizabeth, a very 
 pale Accidental star,' shadowless, 
 and very ugly. Catherine of Arra- 
 gon, Holbein. Luther, Melanchthon, 
 and Pomeranius, the Reformers, 
 after Cranach. The Emperor Charles 
 V., after Amberger, pupil of Holbein. 
 Ninon de l'Enclos, at the age of 70. 
 A male head, in a black scull-cap 
 (good). Ortelius, the geographer, 
 in a circular frame, Holbein (good). 
 Charles II., Lely. The Countess of 
 Desmond. Milton, when young. 
 William Prince of Orange as a boy, 
 Jansen. 
 
 The chamber of Lady Betty 
 Germaine (d. 1769, leaving part of 
 her fortune to Lord George Sackville, 
 afterwards Germaine) contains a 
 piece of tapestry worked at Mortlake, 
 after a picture by Vandyck, consist- 
 ing of portraits of himself, and of 
 Sir Francis Crane, Master of the 
 Tapestry Works. The bedstead is 
 ancient. In the Dressing-room are — 
 Sir Walter Raleigh, in armour ; 
 George Villiers, first Duke of Buck- 
 ingham ; Anne Countess of Dorset, 
 Pembroke, and Montgomery (who 
 wrote the well-known letter to 
 Secretary Williamson) , and her first 
 husband, the third Earl of Dorset, 
 Jansen. 
 
 The furniture of the Spangled 
 Bed-room and Dressing room 
 
 w T as presented by James I. to Lionel 
 Cranfeild, Earl of Middlesex. 
 
 In the Billiard-room and Lei- 
 cester Gallery are— Sir Thomas 
 More, after Holbein. Sir Kenelm 
 Digby, Vandyck — a masterly portrait 
 (in different attitude from the por- 
 trait of Sir Kenelm at Windsor, by 
 the same great master), with great 
 depth of colour and elaborate finish. 
 Prince Henry, painted at Knole, 
 Mytens. Philip IV. of Spain and his 
 Queen. James Marquis of Hamil- 
 ton (a duplicate, and not a good one, 
 of the Marquis by" Mytens at Hamp- 
 ton Court). Molino, the Venetian 
 
 ambassador, Mytens. Henry Howard, 
 Earl of Surrey (the poet), aetat. 29, 
 whole-length, Holbein (?). Frederic 
 King of Bohemia and his daughter 
 the Princess Sophia, ancestress of 
 the present royal family, copies after 
 Honthorst (?). In the Leicester Gal- 
 lery are portraits of Lionel Cran- 
 feild, Earl of Middlesex, ' the citizen 
 who came to be Lord Treasurer, and 
 was very near coming to be hanged' 
 (Walpole^, and others of his family. 
 ' His lady, a bouncing kind of lady 
 mayoress, looks pure awkward 
 among so much good company.' — 
 Walpole. 
 
 The Venetian Bedroom remains 
 as it was fitted up for the ambassa- 
 dor Molino, after whom it is named. 
 The toilet table and mirror-frame 
 are of silver. Here is a portrait 
 of Catherine II. of Russia, in a 
 soldier's red uniform, given by her 
 to Lord Whitworth. 
 
 The Organ-room contains an an- 
 cient instrument, formerly made 
 available for divine service by open- 
 ing a window communicating with 
 the chapel. In the Ante-room to the 
 chapel an interesting specimen of 
 wood-carving is placed. It repre- 
 sents the Crucifixion, and consists 
 of more than 20 figures, admirably 
 executed. It belonged to Mary 
 Queen of Scots, and was given by 
 her to Robert second Earl of Dorset 
 previous to her execution. The 
 doors of this room and several others 
 are still covered with old tapestry, 
 fastened back by hooks on each side 
 to allow of passing. Here also is an 
 organ erected by the late Lady De 
 La Warr. 
 
 The Chapel is Perp., erected by 
 Abp. Bourchier, and stands N. and 
 S. It has a good Perp. E. window. 
 The roof is modern. Beneath is a 
 vaulted crypt, partly bricked up. 
 
 The Ball-room, with panelled 
 walls, surmounted by a curious 
 carved frieze and stuccoed roof, is 
 filled with family portraits, chiefly 
 whole-lengths. Those most worthy 
 
234 
 
 ROUTE 8. — knole: dining-room. 
 
 of notice are — Edward, fourth Earl of 
 Dorset, celebrated for his fatal duel 
 with Lord Bruce of Kinloss and his 
 gallantry in the cause of Charles I., 
 Vandyck ( i unusually red in the flesh 
 tones, otherwise painted with great 
 mastery* — Waagen) ; George III. and 
 Queen, Ramsay ; John Frederic third 
 Duke of Dorset, Reynolds ('one of his 
 inferior works') ; and Lord George 
 Sackville, Gainsborough (very good : 
 ' Of very animated conception, par- 
 ticularly clear colouring, and careful 
 execution ' — Waagen). 
 
 The Crimson Drawing-room 
 
 contains the best pictures in the 
 house ; nearly all deserve notice. 
 Mary Queen of Scots, Zucchero (?\ 
 A Riding Party, Wouvermans — an ex- 
 cellent specimen of the master. 
 Count Ugolino in Prison (Dante, 
 * Inferno/ canto 33), the masterpiece 
 of Sir Joshua Reynolds. Henry VIII., 
 Holbein. 1 Careful and in a warmer 
 tone than usual/ — Waagen. A Holy 
 Family, School of Raffaelle, Perino del 
 Vaga (?). The Wise Men's Olfering, 
 Mazzolino da Ferrara. Frances, wife 
 of the fifth Earl, Vandyck ('Of great 
 elegance'). Judith, with the Head 
 of Holof ernes, Garofalo (' The ex- 
 pression of each head noble ; the 
 careful execution broad and free.' — 
 Waagen). A Head, said to be by 
 Raffaelle, and good, but certainly not 
 his own portrait. Kobinetta, a girl, 
 with a dog peeping over her shoul- 
 der ; Portrait of Madame Sehind- 
 lerin, a singer, in hood, cap, and muff ; 
 the Gipsy Fortune-teller ; the Child 
 Samuel ; all four excellent pictures 
 by Reynolds. The Samuel has a very 
 strong feeling of Murillo. The Por- 
 trait of Madame Bucalli, a dancer, 
 also by Reynolds, is not so good. 
 Holy Family, Titian. Holy Family, 
 with St. Jerome (in a cardinal's 
 habit) and St. Francis ; a good copy 
 of an early Raffaelle in the Berlin 
 Museum. Virgin and Child, with 
 St. John (the design by Michael 
 Angelo^, Andrea del Sarto, a remarka- 
 ble picture, and in excellent preser- 
 vation. Portrait of a Chinese Youth, 
 
 who was at School in Sevenoaks, 
 Reynolds. A Sybil, Domenichino, 
 strongly resembling the Stowe pic- 
 ture, now belonging to Sir R. Wal- 
 lace. A Country Merrymaking 
 ( 1 Attractive for its lively action, 
 delicate and cool tones, and spirited 
 treatment.' — Waagen). A Guardroom, 
 with the Deliverance of St. Peter ; 
 'an excellent picture.' Both by 
 Toilers. The Duke of Cleveland, Sir 
 P. Lely ; Landscape, Nicholas Berghem ; 
 Miss Axford, the fair Quakeress, by 
 Reynolds; and a good portrait by 
 Gainsborough. 
 
 The Cartoon Gallery contains 
 copies of six of the cartoons of Raf- 
 faelle at Hampton Court, by Mytens, 
 but of no great excellence. Here is 
 a very good portrait of the Earl of 
 Albemarle, with a page, by Dobson ; 
 and a full-length of James I., by 
 Mytens. Beneath the portrait is the 
 chair used by the British Solomon 
 when here. The furniture of this 
 room is very splendid. An ancient 
 trunk, bound and studded with 
 brass, should also be noticed. The 
 sconces and fire-dogs are of silver, 
 but the richest display of silver is in 
 the adjoining chamber, — 
 
 The King's Bedroom, so called 
 because fitted up as it now is for 
 James I. The silver toilet-service, 
 however, is an addition of the year 
 I 743- Over the fireplace is a fine 
 picture by Jansen, interesting his- 
 torically, of the three brothers 
 Coligny, including the Admiral, 
 murdered on St. Bartholomew's 
 night. 
 
 The Dining-room is hung with 
 an extensive collection of portraits of 
 literary men, 1 proper enough in 
 that house,' says Walpole, ' for the 
 first Earl wrote a play ('Gorboduc,' 
 acted before Elizabeth in 1561), and 
 the last was a poet, and, I think, 
 married a player.' This last state- 
 ment is, however, not correct. 
 Many of the persons represented 
 here, as Dry den, Pope, Prior, Wycher- 
 ley, Congreve, Killigrew, D'Urfey, 
 
ROUTE 8. — KNOLE — EXCURSIONS. 
 
 235 
 
 actually met round the table of 
 Charles, the last and witty Earl 
 of Dorset, who did not marry a 
 player, though he lived for some 
 time with Nell Gwynne. Remark 
 Cowley and Rochester, by Du Bois. 
 Waller and Addison by Jarvis. 
 Locke, Hobbes, Newton, Sir Charles 
 Sedley, Dryden, and Betterton, by 
 Kneller. Vandyck and Sir Francis 
 Crane, Vandyck. Reynolds ('re- 
 markable for warm and clear colour- 
 ing, and careful carrying out ') ; 
 Garrick ('very characteristic ; the 
 clasped hands are admirable' — 
 Waagen) ; a conversation piece, with 
 portraits, by Hogarth. Goldsmith, 
 Mrs. Abingdon the actress, Sacchini 
 the composer, and Dr. Johnson 
 without his wig (a duplicate of the 
 Duke of Sutherland's picture), all by 
 Reynolds. Handel, JDenner ; careful 
 and delicate. Burke, Opie. Otway, 
 Kneller (?). Garth, Rowe, Wycher- 
 ley, and Congreve, after Kneller. 
 Gay, Bolt. Ben Jonson, the original 
 by Honthorst of the head engraved by 
 Vertue. Portrait of himself ( 1 Of 
 clever arrangement and careful 
 finish'), Dobson. Katherine Phillips 
 (the matchless Orinda). Cartwright 
 the poet, Ben Jonson's ' son.' Beau- 
 mont and Fletcher. Tom D'Urfey. 
 Swift, after the head by Jervas in 
 the Bodleian. Sir Walter Scott, 
 Phillips. 
 
 The above catalogue of pictures is, 
 it is believed, generally correct. No 
 complete catalogue is published. 
 
 At the N. corner of the house is a 
 barn, dating back to Bourchier's 
 time ; on the other hand the 
 avenue, called the Duchess' Walk. 
 Another avenue of beeches leads to 
 the ancient pleasaunce. 
 
 The Park of Knole, always open 
 to the public, contains iooo acres, 
 and is 6 m. in circuit. The ground 
 is well varied, and many of the trees 
 are of great age and size. It abounds 
 in deer. * The park is sweet,' wrote 
 Walpole, 4 with much old beech, and 
 an immense sycamore before the 
 [Kent.'] 
 
 great gate, which makes me more in 
 love than ever with sycamores.' The 
 remoter slopes especially, with their 
 deep carpeting of fern, their scat- 
 tered hollies, and oak copses, are 
 full of attraction for the landscape 
 painter. 
 
 Almost adjoining the Park of 
 Knole, N., is Wildernesse (the seat 
 of Lord Hillingdon), formerly SUdvJfa 
 Place ; the name was changed, 
 circ. 1680, by the purchaser, Sir 
 Charles Bickerstaffe. On his decease, 
 in 1705, it was bought by Serjeant 
 Pratt, in whose family it remains. 
 The house is modern, but the park 
 is fine, and from a hill on the S. side 
 a noble view is commanded. Wil- 
 dernesse is in the parish of Seal : 
 which gives the title of * Saye and 
 Sele ' to the Fiennes family. The 
 Ch. of Seal is principally E. E. It 
 contains several monuments to the 
 Camden family : and has a fine 
 brass to Sir W. de Bryene, 1395, 
 with helmet placed under the head 
 as a pillow. 
 
 The tourist may also visit, for the 
 sake of their prospects Ide Hill, 4 
 m. W., to which a lane leads 1. of 
 Sevenoaks Church, and Moranfs 
 Court Hill, generally corrupted to 
 Madam's Court Hill, on the old London 
 road, which commands a wider and 
 finer prospect than that seen from 
 the present London road. The view 
 over the Valley of Tunbridge and 
 the Weald, obtained from any of 
 these hills, will not readily be 
 forgotten. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Sevenoaks 
 are Kippington (F. L. Bevan, Esq.) ; 
 Beechmouni (Multon Lambarde, Esq.); 
 Chart Lodge (Mrs. Prevost). 
 
 Excursions. 
 
 (a) 4 m. N.W. Chevening (Earl 
 Stanhope) — a place full of interest 
 as well for its own beauty as for the 
 historical associations connected with 
 its owners. 
 
 There are two manors of Che- 
 vening ; one of which belonged to 
 
 s 
 
236 
 
 ROUTE 8. — chevening: church. 
 
 the see of Canterbury until the Re- 
 formation, when it passed into the 
 hands of the Crown. The second, 
 which has far more historic interest, 
 early belonged to a family named 
 from it De Chevening, or Chown- 
 ing ; and passed through the Len- 
 nards, afterwards Lord Dacre, to 
 Thomas Lennard, Lord Dacre, 
 created Earl of Sussex by Charles 
 II. His daughters and co-heirs sold 
 Chevening in 171 7 to General 
 Stanhope, the hero of Port Mahon 
 and of Almenara (grandson of Philip, 
 the first Earl of Chesterfield), after- 
 wards created Earl Stanhope for his 
 great services during the War of 
 the Succession. Chevening remains 
 in the hands of his descendants. 
 
 The house, rebuilt by Richard 
 Lennard, Lord Dacre of the South 
 (d. 163CO, from designs by Inigo 
 Jones, stands at the foot of the 
 chalk-ridge, but still on tolerably 
 high ground. All traces of the 
 original architect have, however, 
 disappeared ; a result of the nume- 
 rous alterations, both external and 
 internal, which have from time to 
 time been made here. Chevening 
 contains some interesting portraits : 
 among the best are — The first Earl 
 Stanhope, Commander of the Bri- 
 tish army in Spain during the War 
 of * the Succession, and afterwards 
 prime minister under George I., 
 half-length by Kneller ; his father, 
 the Hon. Alex. Stanhope, Envoy to 
 the Court of Charles II. of Spain ; 
 Lord Chesterfield, Gainsborough ; 
 William Pitt, Gainsborough ; the 
 great Lord Chatham ; Anne Hyde, 
 Duchess of York, Lely : and Mary 
 Lepel, Lady Hervey, aged. Also 
 several portraits by Allan Ramsay. 
 In the grounds is a fine lake sur- 
 rounded by noble trees ; and the 
 close-mown turf walks between the 
 alleys and along the terraces are 
 very pleasant. A pile of Roman 
 monumental stones and altars 
 brought from Tarragona by the first 
 Lord Stanhope should be examined 
 by the antiquary. A road cut by 
 
 the plan and direction of the great 
 Lord Chatham (who once resided 
 here) winds up the combe in front 
 of the house, crowned with noble 
 woods of beech and yew. From 
 the hill-top a view of surpassing 
 beauty is commanded. The Pilgrims' 
 Road, a very ancient and probably 
 British trackway, passing from 
 Hampshire toward Canterbury, for- 
 merly ran across the park N. of the 
 house, but was closed by an Act of 
 Parliament obtained by a former 
 Lord Stanhope in 1780. The garden 
 and pleasure-grounds of Chevening 
 are usually open to the public on 
 Wednesdays. 
 
 The Church has some E. E. por- 
 tions, but is chiefly Perp. It con- 
 tains some interesting monuments. 
 In the S. chancel are altar-tombs - 
 with effigies of John Lennard and 
 his wife Elizabeth, d. 1 590 ; and 
 of Sampson Lennard and his wife 
 Margaret Eiennes, Lady Dacre (d. 
 161 5 \ through whom the peerage of 
 the Dacres passed to the family of 
 Lennard. Here is also a monu- 
 ment of the great Lord Stanhope, a 
 black marble tablet erected by his 
 great-grandson. The banner over 
 the tablet was used at the Earl's 
 funeral in Westminster Abbey. His 
 remains, however, were afterwards 
 removed to Chevening. A large 
 monument by Rysbrach was erected 
 in Westminster Abbey. Besides these 
 remark a monument by Chantrey 
 for Lady Frederica Stanhope, 
 daughter of the Earl of Mansfield, 
 who died in childbirth. The child 
 rests on the bosom of the mother. 
 This monument is said to be 
 Chantrey's finest work. Brass : man 
 and wife, unknown ; the date, 1596, 
 remains. Here was buried, in 1875, 
 Lord Stanhope, the historian. This 
 Ch. is said to have been one of the 
 pilgrimage churches on the old road 
 to Canterbury which ran through 
 Chevening Park. 
 
 (b) An interesting archaeological 
 excursion may be made from Seven- 
 oaks to Ightham and Wrotham, 
 
ROUTE 8. — IGHTHAM — WROTHAM. 
 
 237 
 
 returning by Plaxtol and The Mote. 
 This will be a good day's work. 
 
 On this road, about 2 m. N., ad- 
 joining the park of Wildernesse, is 
 Seal Church {ante.) 
 
 At Oldbury Hill, on Ightham Com- 
 mon, a little beyond Crown Point, 
 where the road bends southward, 
 is a very large intrenchment of 
 an irregular form, and inclosing 
 about 123 acres. The vallum is 
 single ; and a covered entrance may 
 be traced on the S. side. Toward 
 the centre are two springs of water. 
 A Roman vicinal way seems to have 
 crossed the parish here, the course of 
 which is marked by such names as 
 Stone Street and Oldborough ; but the 
 camp can hardly have been formed 
 by the legionaries, and is very pro- 
 bably one of the 'oppida sylvis 
 munita ' which Caesar found existing 
 on his first visit to Kent. 
 
 The Church of Ightham (ight = 
 eyot = island) one of the oldest and 
 most picturesque villages in Kent, 
 1 m. beyond, has been greatly mod- 
 ernised, but contains some Dec. 
 portions of interest. Above the 
 Perp. eastern window the frames of 
 two very small Norm, ones are visible. 
 In the N. wall of the chancel is an 
 effigy of Sir Thomas Cawne, who 
 died possessed of the Mote, c. 1374 
 {Arch. Cant. vol. iv.). The Curvilinear 
 ivindow, above is also to his memory. 
 In the chancel are some rich monu- 
 ments of the Selby family : among 
 them a very curious one to Dorothy 
 Selby. This is remarkable for its 
 allusion to the Gunpowder Plot, the 
 foiling of which scheme is ascribed 
 in verbose language to Dame 
 Dorothy (d. 1641). Brass: Sir 
 Richard Clement, 1528. The recent 
 removal of the galleries has re- 
 vealed a fine 16th cent, arch and 
 window. 
 
 The tourist may shorten his day's 
 work by proceeding from here at once 
 to The Mote (see beyond), which lies 
 in the S. part of the parish, about 2 
 jn. from Ightham, and thence return- 
 
 ing to Sevenoaks. Continuing the 
 longer excursion, he will reach, 
 
 2| m. N. E., Wrotham Church, 
 
 partly E. E. (nave, piers, and arches), 
 partly perpendicular ; it contains a 
 handsome oak screen of 14th 
 cent. : and has a curious passage 
 through the lower part of the tower. 
 During the restoration an ancient 
 coffin was discovered : supposed to 
 be that of William of Wrotham, 
 founder of the Church, governor of 
 Dover castle (12th cent.). There are 
 many brasses — among others, Thomas 
 Nysell and family, 1498 ; Thomas 
 Peckham and wife, 15 12 ; Reynold 
 Peckham, esquire for the body to 
 Henry VIIL, 1525, and wife, 1523 ; 
 John Burgoyn, 1500 ; a man in 
 armour, c. 1530; Wm. Clerke, 161 1, 
 and wife. An old mansion* S. of the 
 ch. (brick with stone dressings) 
 should be noticed. Wrotham was 
 granted by Athelstane to the see of 
 Canterbury ; and the archbishops had 
 very early a palace here, the greater 
 part of which was pulled down by 
 Abp. Islip, temp. Edw. III., in order 
 to finish his palace at Maidstone 
 with the materials. The manor was 
 subsequently resigned to the king 
 by Cranmer. Of the palace, which 
 stood E. of the ch., there are very 
 scanty traces. 
 
 At Blacksole Field, in this parish, 
 Sir Robert Southwell, sheriff of 
 Kent, and Lord Abergavenny, routed 
 the Isleys and their party, who were 
 engaged in Sir Thomas Wyatt's re- 
 bellion in the first year of Queen 
 Mary. Wrotham Hill, in the chalk 
 range (the North Downs), 1 m. be- 
 yond the village, commands a superb 
 view over the rich tree- shadowed 
 country S. It is skirted by the 
 Pilgrims' Road to Canterbury. At 
 Stansted Ch.-yard, 3 m., N. of 
 Wrotham is a yew-tree, said to be 
 1000 years old. 
 
 Wrotham hill, owing to its height 
 (774 ft.) has been made the centre of 
 numerous observations for the tri- 
 gonometrical survey of Kent. 
 
 From Wrotham the tourist may 
 s 2 
 
238 
 
 EOUTE 8. — PLAXTOL — THE MOTE. 
 
 either proceed by Addington and 
 Mailing to Maidstone (n m., see Kte. 
 9), return to Sevenoaks by rail ; 
 some trains run direct, passing 
 Kemsing (p. 242), others via 
 Otford junction (p. 242), or, as at 
 first proposed, turn S. to Plaxtol, 
 3! m., having E. the great masses of 
 the Hurst woods, which stretch up 
 behind Mere worth. 
 
 The Church of Plaxtol dates from 
 1649, and is of no interest, its pseudo- 
 Gothic style is, however, noteworthy; 
 1 m. N.E. is Soar Place, where is an 
 early Dec. house, date, circ. 1300, 
 well deserving a visit. (Inquire for 
 ' Old Soar Farm' a modern house hav- 
 ing been joined to the ancient one.) 
 It is two storeys, the plan consist- 
 ing of an oblong building running 
 nearly E. and W., with two lesser 
 ones attached to the N.E. and N.W. 
 angles. The ground-floor of the 
 larger building is vaulted. Remark 
 the mere loops serving as windows 
 on this floor throughout the building, 
 indicating the insecurity of the 
 times. At the foot of the stair in 
 the S.W. angle is a door which now 
 affords access to the modern part of 
 the house, but which may originally 
 have opened into a porch. The 
 principal room above has a fireplace, 
 the jambs of which are mutilated. 
 The tracery is gone from the win- 
 dows, of which there is one at each 
 end, and a smaller one on each side 
 of the fireplace. The roof is appa- 
 rently original. 
 
 The upper storeys of the two pro- 
 jecting buildings are entered from 
 this room. That at the N.E. angle 
 was probably the chapel, since a 
 piscina remains in its S. wall. The 
 room at the N.W. angle is lighted 
 by four cross loops^ i and may have 
 been constructed partly with a view 
 to defence, as it effectually flanks 
 two sides of the building/ — Hudson 
 Turner. 
 
 The manor of Soar belonged to 
 the family of Colepeper until the 
 reign of Elizabeth, Walter de Cole- 
 peper having died possessed of it, 
 1st Edw. III., long before which 
 
 the present house must have been 
 erected. 
 
 At Allen's Farm, in the parish of 
 Plaxtol, remains of extensive Roman 
 (or Brito-Roman) buildings were dis- 
 covered in 1857. A small bronze 
 statuette of Minerva Victrix, found 
 at the same time, may be seen at 
 the farm (figured in Arch. Cant. vol. 
 ii.). Other Roman remains have 
 been discovered in this parish, and 
 in that of Ightham ; and it has been 
 suggested that the site of Vagniacoo 
 may not improbably have been in the 
 Plaxtol Valley. (See a paper by 
 Major Luard, R.A., in Arch. Cant 
 vol. ii.) 
 
 1 m. W. of Plaxtol ch., but in the 
 parish of Ightham, lies The Mote 
 (T. C. Colyer-Fergusson, Esq.), the 
 earliest portions of which date from 
 Edward III. The house is of very 
 great interest, being one of the most 
 entire specimens remaining of the 
 ancient moated 'manor.' Like its 
 brethren of romance, the Ightham 
 Mote-house lies sleeping in the midst 
 of thick woods, which you may re- 
 re-people at will with such marvels as 
 Sir Tristram or Sir Percival was 
 wont to encounter in similar situa- 
 tions. The broad clear moat is fed 
 from a neighbouring rivulet, which, 
 it has been conjectured, formed here 
 a small island or eyot, whereon the 
 building was originally erected, and 
 which thus gave name to the whole 
 parish — Ightham, Eyotham, the 
 ' hamlet of the eyot.' This deriva- 
 tion has, however, been questioned, 
 and Ightham considered to be no 
 more than the place of Eight- 
 hamlets. 
 
 The plan of the Mote is a quad- 
 rangle, the walls of which rise at 
 once from the water. It is of three 
 distinct periods — the first of Edward 
 III. ; the second of Henry VII. and 
 the beginning of Henry VIII. ; the 
 third of Elizabeth and James I. 
 The hall belongs to the first period. 
 Remark the central stone arch, 
 which resembles those of Mayfield in 
 Sussex. The mouldings are Dec, 
 
ROUTE 8. — THE MOTE — SHIPBOENE. 
 
 239 
 
 and differ in no respect from those 
 of the other principals, which are of 
 wood. The doorways are also ori- 
 ginal ; the fireplace and windows 
 temp. Hen. VIII. Other portions 
 of the first period are — a room with a 
 groined vault and a window looking 
 into the moat, and a chamber over 
 it called the 'old chapel/ Of the 
 second period the most interesting 
 portions are the gateway-tower, with 
 the gateway itself and its wooden 
 doors ; and especially the Chapel, 
 upstairs — i a very perfect and inter- 
 esting example of the domestic 
 chapel of that period/ — J. H. Parker. 
 The original painted ceiling, with 
 numerous badges of Henry VIII. 
 and Katherine of Arragon remains. 
 The pulpit and benches are also un- 
 altered. The third, or Elizabethan 
 work, consists mainly of timber 
 buildings outside the moat, contain- 
 ing the stables, in which there is said 
 to have been room for 60 horses. 
 
 The Mote is usually ascribed to 
 the family of De Haut, from the 
 time of Henry II. to that of Henry 
 VII. ; but this is an error, as Sir 
 Thomas Cawne died possessed of 
 it circ. 1374. The estate was con- 
 fiscated by Richard III., and grant- 
 ed by him to Sir Robert Brack- 
 enbury, Richard de Haut (a con- 
 nexion of the Woodvilles) having 
 joined the party of the Earl of Rich- 
 mond ; it was restored by Henry 
 VII. It subsequently passed, by 
 purchase, to the Clements, the 
 Aliens, and lastly, in 1592, to the 
 Selbys of Northumberland ; one of 
 whom, Dorothy Lady Selby, is said 
 to have been instrumental in de- 
 ciphering the anonymous letter sent 
 to Lord Monteagle in order to warn 
 him against the Gunpowder Plot, as 
 it is written on her tomb in Ightham 
 Church. It remained in the Selby 
 family until 1888 when it came into 
 the possession of the present owner. 
 
 From the Mote a pleasant drive 
 of 5 m. brings us back to Sevenoaks. 
 
 (c) Westerham, 6| m . W. (See Rte. 8b) . 
 
 Rail. Sevenoaks to Tunbridge and Tun- 
 bridge Wells. 
 
 On quitting Sevenoaks Stat., a 
 Tunnel 3450 yds. or nearly 2 m. 
 long, and at the deepest part 400 ft. 
 below the surface, gives passage for 
 the rly. t hrough the green sand beds 
 overlying the Wealden clay. Great 
 difficulties were encountered in pierc- 
 ing through it, owing to the quantity 
 of water discharged by the green- 
 sand. The arching is composed of 
 five rings of bricks, and in places of 
 seven rings. The navvies here tapped 
 a river sufficient to supply the towns 
 of Sevenoaks, Tunbridge, and Tun- 
 bridge Wells with water. 
 
 27 m. Hildenborough (Stat.). 
 
 Between Sevenoaks and Tun- 
 bridge the country is very pictur- 
 esque, but is not well seen from the 
 rly. 
 
 The views, after gaining the high 
 ground S. of Sevenoaks are magni- 
 ficent, as the road gradually descends 
 the ridge of the sandstone into the 
 Weald country ; but the beauty of 
 Sevenoaks Common (where is a new 
 ch.) has been greatly marred by 
 railway operations. The lofty tower 
 seen E. of Tunbridge is attached 
 to Hadlow Castle (Rte. a). 
 About 2 m. S.E. from Sevenoaks is 
 River Hill (Capt. J. T. Rogers). Just 
 above, and before reaching it, the 
 tourist should proceed 100 yards 
 along a road 1., for the sake of the 
 view over the Wealds of Kent and 
 Sussex. Entering the park, remark 
 the two * allees ' cut in the beech- 
 woods. 
 
 4 m. N. of Tunbridge is Ship- 
 borne, in the ch. of which the 
 'Harry Vane' of the Common- 
 wealth (beheaded 1662) is buried. 
 Fairlaicn, the chief seat of the parish, 
 has a labyrinth of yew-trees, where, 
 according to village gossip, the 
 renowned Parliamentarian walks 
 about at night with his head under 
 his arm ; also a fine Pinetum. In 
 the lower part of the park is a 
 moated earthwork, of uncertain date. 
 
240 
 
 ROUTE 8a. — LONDON TO SEVENOAKS. 
 
 Fairlawn House (W. M. Cazalet, Esq.) 
 is in the parish of Plaxtol. Fairhill 
 is a seat of the Earl of Derby. 
 
 29 J m. Tunbridge Junction : see 
 Rte. 2. 
 
 From Tunbridge a line branches 
 off to Hastings. Passing through 
 Southborough (where are chalybeate 
 springs) we reach TUNBRIDGE 
 WELLS (Pop. 27,895), 5 m. from 
 Tunbridge, on the borders of Kent 
 and Sussex ; principally in the for- 
 mer county. The history of Tun- 
 bridge Wells begins in the reign 
 of James L, when the chalybeate 
 springs were accidentally discovered 
 by Lord North when on a visit to 
 the Earl of Abergavenny. The visits 
 of Queens Henrietta Maria and 
 Catherine of Braganza brought the 
 place into notice — and in the days 
 of George II. it attained the dignity 
 of a first-class watering-place for 
 people of fashion. There are 
 numerous chalybeate springs, but 
 only one of special fame. The 
 promenade in front of the spring is 
 called the ' Pantiles.' The adjoin- 
 ing Pump Room was erected in 
 1877 f° r the convenience of visitors. 
 The Chapel of Ease was built in 1685, 
 and dedicated to King Charles the 
 Martyr. Holy Trinity (Canon Hoare) 
 and Christ Church, St James', St. John's, 
 St. Barnabas' and St Peter's are 
 modern buildings. The Common 
 covers 179 acres ; it abounds with 
 heather and bracken, and is a 
 favourite health resort. Adjoining 
 Rusthall Common is the singular 
 rock called the Toad Rock, and 
 on the road to Eridge are the High 
 Rocks. For more detailed descrip- 
 tion see the Handbook to Sussex. 
 
 Etchingham, on this line is a 
 good starting-point for an excursion 
 to Hawkhurst and Cranbrook and 
 other parts of the Weald (see Rte. 
 11). 
 
 Speldhurst and Bidborough 
 
 maybe visited either from Tunbridge 
 
 or Tunbridge Wells. They lie on 
 the W. side of the line, amid charm- 
 ing scenery. 
 
 ROUTE 8a. 
 
 LONDON TO SEVENOAKS, BY EYNS- 
 FORD AND SHOREHAM [oTFORD] 
 BRANCH OF LONDON, CHAT- 
 HAM AND DOVER RAILWAY. 
 
 25I m. from Victoria Stat. 
 
 The shortest way to Sevenoaks is 
 Ete. 8. 
 
 For the line as far as 
 
 Swanley Junct. see Rte. 3. A deep 
 cutting and tunnel precede 
 
 2o| m. Eynsford (Stat.), where 
 are large paper-mills, rising from 
 the midst of orchards and cherry- 
 gardens, whose white blossoms in 
 early spring add not a little to the 
 beauty of the river valley. The 
 church is E. E., with spire and a 
 rich Norm. W. door. The chancel 
 terminates in an apse, lighted by 3 
 lancets. The S. transept has 8 lancets. 
 The N. has been rebuilt, and is Perp. 
 Near the river are the remains — but 
 little more than the walls — of Eyns- 
 ford Castle, the moat of which is now 
 converted into an orchard. The 
 walls, which enclose nearly an acre, 
 as well as the fragments of the keep, 
 are Norm., and are built of flints 
 from the chalk, with which many 
 Roman bricks are intermixed. 
 
 Eynsford was given to Christ 
 Church, Canterbury, about 950, by a 
 Saxon named iElfege. The castle 
 and manor were held under the 
 Abp. by a family named Eynsford, 
 until the reign of Edward I., when 
 they passed into the hands of the 
 great Kentish house of Criol. They 
 have since had numerous pro- 
 prietors ; but the castle seems to 
 have fallen into decay at an early 
 period. 
 
 The early character of the churches 
 in the valley of the Darenth, as well 
 
ROUTE 8a.— LULLINGSTONE — SHOREHAM. 
 
 241 
 
 as the Roman bricks constantly 
 found in their walls, mark the an- 
 cient importance and population of 
 this district. Two roads of great 
 antiquity open into the valley, — 
 the Watling Street at Dartford, and 
 a second from London to Maidstone, 
 which crosses it here at Farningham. 
 
 The line proceeds in a S.E. direc- 
 tion, and crosses the Darenth at the 
 JS T .E. corner of Lullingstone Park. 
 The E. E. Church of Lulling- 
 stone is seen beyond the river, W. ; 
 and should be visited for the sake of 
 some i6th-cent. monuments of the 
 Peche and Hart families, unusually 
 rich and good. The best are— Sir 
 George Hart and wife, d. 1587 ; Sir 
 Percival Hart, S. of the main 
 chancel, d. 1580 ; and Sir John 
 Peche, between the main and the 
 N. chancels, d. 31st Hen. VIII. 
 There are some later tombs of less 
 interest. Brasses : Sir William 
 Peche, 1487. * The ornament on the 
 scabbard of the sword is perhaps 
 unique ; the brass is of a peculiar 
 style, and was perhaps engraved 
 many years later than the date upon 
 it.' — Haines. Alice Baldwin, 'Gentle- 
 woman to the Lady Mary of England,' 
 1533. Eliz. Hart, 1544. The church 
 was 1 repaired and beautified ' by 
 Percival Hart, Esq. (d. 1738). There 
 are some fragments of stained glass 
 of Dec. character, and a good oaken 
 chancel screen. 
 
 There is a public footpath through 
 the beautiful park of the present 
 Lullingstone Castle (Sir W. Hart Dyke, 
 Bart.). The house lies low, in a 
 valley between the chalk hills, and, 
 although some portions are an- 
 cient — notice the Jacobean music- 
 room, with its handsome ceiling — 
 the greater part dates from the end 
 of the Jast century, when it was 
 much altered and added to. Here is 
 preserved a remarkable copper bowl, 
 found in i860, near the line of rly. It 
 is decorated with enamelled orna- 
 ments, 1 copies of Roman works of 
 art, or rather copies of copies, settled 
 into those very peculiar patterns 
 which we recognise as Saxon.'— C. 2?. 
 
 Smith. Somewhat similar bowls 
 have been found with Saxon remains 
 in Leicestershire, at Gilt on near 
 Sandwich, and elsewhere ; and 
 1 nearly always indicate graves of 
 women.' — C. E. S. {The Lulling- 
 stone bowl is figured in Arch. Cant., 
 vol. iii.) 
 
 Lullingstone passed by marriage 
 from the Peches to the Harts, to- 
 ward the end of the reign of Henry 
 VIII., and, in 1738, again by mar- 
 riage, to the Dykes of Sussex, in 
 which family it still remains. 
 
 22| m. SHOEEHAM (Stat.). The 
 ch., restored 1863, has a good 
 rood-loft. 
 
 Shoreham Place (H. B. Mildmay, 
 Esq.\ a modern house, very plea- 
 santly situated, contains some in- 
 teresting pictures, chiefly modern. 
 The collection of pictures of the 
 Dutch School, which was formerly 
 here, is now in Mr. Mildmay's 
 London residence. 
 
 2 m. beyond Shoreham is Otford 
 Junction, whence trains run di- 
 rectly into Sevenoaks, or via 
 Kemsing and Wrotham to Maid- 
 stone. Close to the church are the 
 ruins of the archiepiscopal Palace, 
 rebuilt by Archbp. Warham, temp. 
 Hen. VIII., at a cost of 33,000?. An 
 octagonal tower and the cloistered 
 side of the outer court are the only 
 portions remaining. These are of 
 brick with stone dressings. The 
 manor was granted to the see of 
 Canterbury by Offa of Mercia in 
 791 ; and was resigned to the crown 
 by Crannier. The pleasant situation, 
 at the foot of the chalk hills, and 
 the large parks and woods adjoining, 
 rendered Otford one of the most 
 favourite of the 16 archiepiscopal 
 palaces. Abp. Becket supplied it 
 with water, which, according to the 
 local legend, it wanted until he 
 struck his staff into the ground, 
 thereby calling forth the spring 
 which still feeds St. Thomas's Well, 
 close to the ruins. The saint is also 
 said to have used this spring as a 
 bath The water is still thought to 
 
242 ROUTE 8b. — SEVENOAKS TO WESTERHAM. 
 
 be of powerful virtue, and is re- 
 sorted to as a cure for various ail- 
 ments. The chamber into which 
 the water runs has been thoroughly 
 restored. Archbishop Winchelsey 
 died here in 13 13. 
 
 The church, which has some good 
 Dec. windows in the nave, was re- 
 stored byStreet in 1862. It contains 
 several monuments of the Polhill 
 family, one especially being of great 
 local celebrity, from its containing 
 ' seven different kinds of marble.' 
 
 From Otford the direct line to 
 Maidstone runs to Kemsing (3 
 m.). The village lies N.W. of the 
 station. There is a small Ch. con- 
 taining a half-length brass of Thomas 
 de Hop, circ. 1320. It is dedicated 
 to St. Edith, a local saint said to 
 have been born here. She still 
 patronizes a well toward the centre 
 of the village, and her image in the 
 churchyard was much reverenced by 
 the peasantry, St. Edith having 
 succeeded the more ancient 'Di 
 Agrestes ' as — 
 
 ' breather round the farms, 
 To keep off mildew, and all weather harms. ' 
 
 Along the line of hills above Ot- 
 ford and the village of Kemsing 
 runs the 4 Pilgrim's Road/ a very 
 ancient trackway, which, whatever 
 may have been its origin, was that 
 along which the pilgrims from the 
 S. W. districts advanced toward 
 Canterbury. (See Charing, Rte. 7.) 
 Here, as elsewhere, it avoids the 
 inhabited country as much as pos- 
 sible, keeping at some little distance 
 from the towns and villages. 
 
 From Kemsing the line continues 
 to Wrotham (see p. 237) and thence 
 to Maidstone (Rte. 6). The line 
 direct to Sevenoaks (25I m.) has a 
 station at Bat and Ball, at the N. of 
 the town. Hence a connecting line 
 runs to the S.E. Station at Tub's Hill, 
 on the S.W. side of Sevenoaks (p. 
 
 BOUTE 8b. 
 
 SEVENOAKS TO WESTERHAM, BY 
 CHIPSTEAD, SUNDRIDGE AND 
 BRASTED. 6 I m. 
 
 This excursion may be made either 
 by rail or road. (1) If by rail, pro- 
 ceed from Sevenoaks to Bunion Green 
 J unci. (p. 230), whence a branch line 
 runs (for Chevening, Chipstead and 
 Sundridge) to Brasted, and Westerham 
 (for Squerryes, Chart, and Crockham Hill) . 
 A continuation of this line is pro- 
 posed to Limpsfield and Oxted (Rte. 
 1), which will open up a charm- 
 ing bit of country. (2) If by 
 road, it is a pretty drive through 
 River he ad (fine modern chancel 
 by Blomfield ; some tapestry pre- 
 sented by Q. Elizabeth to Sir R. 
 Bosville, preserved at Bradbourne 
 Hall) to Chipstead, a hamlet of 
 Chevening. At Chipstead Place is a., 
 choice Library of rare books ; as j 
 also some valuable paintings by 
 Claude (Cupid and Psyche) ; Both and 
 Cuyp (landscapes) ; Wilkie's 1 Guess 
 my name ' ; Murillo (two saints) ; Sir 
 J. Reynolds (' Contemplation ') ; Por- 
 denone (a portrait) ; Giorgione (the 
 Saviour) ; and Gainsborough (a wood 
 scene). The pinetum and gardens 
 contain fine and. well-grown speci- 
 mens of many rare pines ; and in 
 the conservatory is a Rhododendron 
 arboreum, 40 years old, which has 
 been known to bear 1000 bunches of 
 flowers. 
 
 4 m. The church of Sundridge, 
 
 on rising ground commanding the 
 valley, and approached by an avenue 
 and lychgate, is E. E. with con- 
 siderable additions, mainly Perp. 
 It has Brasses to Roger Isley, 
 1429 ; Thomas Isley and his wife, 
 15 15 ; and another to a civilian, 
 probably one of the same family. 
 A Perp. altar-tomb, from which 
 the effigies are removed, is a me- 
 morial of John Isley and wife, 
 d. 1484. Here are some busts of the 
 Campbells, in niches, by Mrs. 
 Darner, who is buried here. The 
 
ROUTE 8b. BRASTED — WESTERHAM. 
 
 243 
 
 Duke of Argyll sits in the House 
 of Lords as Baron Sundridge. In 
 the beautiful churchyard is the tomb 
 of Bp. Porteous, who lived here, and 
 planted the stately ash -trees which 
 adorn the churchyard. 
 
 The Isleys of Sundridge Place, S. 
 of the ch., were active in the rising 
 of Sir Thomas Wyatt in the ist 
 year of Queen Mary ; and their es- 
 tates in consequence were forfeited 
 for a time. Their old house has 
 entirely disappeared. 
 
 N. of the road is Combe Bank 
 (Count de Baillet), formerly belong- 
 ing to the Argyll family, afterwards 
 to the Mannings. The house is 
 finely placed, and the broad grassy 
 terrace, crowned by an enormous 
 cedar and other large trees, is one of 
 the finest park scenes in Kent. 
 
 At Brasted, 5 m., is Brasted Place 
 (William Tipping, Esq.), once the 
 retreat of Prince Louis Napoleon, 
 who set out from here on his famous 
 Boulogne expedition. The house 
 has been much improved within and 
 without by its present owner. 
 
 Beyond Brasted are Ovenclen House 
 (G. Henderson, Esq.) and Valence 
 (N. Watney, Esq.), late Lord Nor- 
 bury's. 
 
 1 \ m. further brings us to 
 WESTEEHAM (Pop. 1900), a 
 small town stretching along the 
 foot of the chalk hills, and very 
 pleasantly situated. The hill. N. of 
 Westerham (812 ft.) is the highest 
 point in the county. The view from 
 the E. side of the churchyard, where 
 a seat has been fixed, should not be 
 missed. The Church is almost 
 throughout late Perp. Brasses : K. 
 Hay ward, 1529 ; Thomas Potter, 
 1 53 1. In the ch., over the S. en- 
 trance, is a memorial for General 
 Wolfe, the conqueror of Quebec, 
 born in the Vicarage House, at 
 Westerham, Jan. 2, 1727. 
 
 ' Whilst George in sorrow bows his laurell'd 
 head,' 
 
 runs the inscription, the men of 
 Westerham 
 
 • With humble grief inscribe one artless stone, 
 And from thy matchless honours date our 
 own.' 
 
 Other celebrities of Westerham 
 are Hoadly, Bp. of Winchester; 
 born here in 1676 ; whose famous 
 controversy with William Law is 
 better remembered than the long- 
 drawn sentences in which he sup- 
 ported it — 
 
 • Swift for closer style, 
 But Hoadly for a period of a mile ; ' — 
 
 and Fryth, the companion and 
 fellow labourer of Tyndale, born in 
 1503. Fryth's writings are said to 
 have been instrumental in the con- 
 version of Cranmer, who had pre- 
 viously condemned him. 
 
 Close to Westerham is Squerryes 
 Court (Colonel Warded, a stately 
 red-brick mansion, surrounded by 
 noble trees, and containing interest- 
 ing pictures — a portrait of Wolfe, 
 who received his commission in the 
 army while in the garden of 
 Squerryes ; also a picture of him by 
 B. West. The Darenth rises not far 
 from the back of the house of 
 Squerryes, and at once becomes a 
 stream of some importance. Its 
 course, from this point to its junc- 
 tion with the Thames near Dartford, 
 is 20 m. in length, passing through 
 some very beautiful country ; and it 
 still has the reputation, as when in 
 Spenser's days it attended the 
 marriage of the Thames and Med- 
 way, of being one of the best trout - 
 streams in Kent : — 
 
 • the still Darenth, in whose waters 
 
 clean 
 
 Ten thousand fishes play, and deck his 
 pleasant stream.' 
 
 On the ridge of sandstone hills 
 S.E. of Westerham some quarries of 
 Kentish rag have been opened, a 
 visit to which will prove interesting 
 to the geologist. Chart's Edge, the 
 modern Gothic house on the top 
 of the hill, and commanding fine 
 views (Mrs. Streatfeild), was the 
 residence of the Kev. Thomas 
 Streatfeild, the well-known Kentish 
 
244 
 
 ROUTE 10.— MAIDSTONE TO CANTERBURY. 
 
 antiquary.* The walk may be con- 
 tinued to Crockham Hill, about i 
 m. W., traversed by the road from 
 Westerham to the Edenbridge 
 Station. The view over the three 
 counties, Kent, Surrey, and Sussex, 
 ranks deservedly high among the 
 many wide panoramas obtained in 
 this neighbourhood. 
 
 HOUTE 9. 
 
 LONDON TO MAIDSTONE, BY FAR- 
 NINGHAM. 34 III. 
 
 The distance between London 
 and Maidstone by the existing rlys. 
 is 57 \ m. via Paddock Wood Junction 
 (Rte. 2), and 44 m. by the N. Kent 
 line (Rte. 6) ; the line from Otford 
 (Rte. 8) reduces it to about 40 m. 
 Having already described the 
 country as far as Otford in Rtes. 3 
 and 8, we need only mention that 
 the turnpike-road to Maidstone 
 passes through New Cross (3 \ m.), 
 Lee (6 m.), leaving Lewisham to the 
 S., and Eltham (8 m.) ; then bend- 
 ing to the S.E., it traverses Sidcup 
 (11 m.), Footscray (12 m.), Birch- 
 wood Corner (14 m., a well-known 
 meet for hounds), crosses the L. C. 
 and D. Rly. near the Swanley Junct. , 
 and leaving the rail to the W. 
 reaches Farningham (17 m. Rte. 3). 
 We are now in a region beyond rlys., 
 and we reach at 
 
 20 m. Kingsdown (Pop. 428\ 
 In the little Ch. are some fragments 
 of stained glass, of the latter half of 
 the 14th cent., but the building 
 itself is very plain, and without dis- 
 tinctive character. 
 
 At 22 m. occurs a division of the 
 road ; the way to Maidstone lying 
 eastward, whilst the Tunbridge road 
 runs S., through Ightham and Ship- 
 borne (Rte. 8). At 24 m. we reach 
 
 * A notice of whose very important arch9eo- 
 logical collections will be found in Arch; 
 Cant. vol. iii. 
 
 Wrotham (Rte. 8), whence the 
 journey to Maidstone is a retracing 
 of the line described in Rte. 6, Exc. 
 (b), the places passed being Offham 
 (27 m.)/Town Mailing (29 m.), Lark- 
 field (30 m.), Ditton (31 m.), Ailing- 
 ton (32 m.), and Maidstone (34 m.). 
 
 ROUTE 10. 
 
 MAIDSTONE TO CANTERBURY, BY 
 HOLLINGBOURNE, LENHAM, 
 CHARING, AND ASHFORD. 
 
 Leaving Maidstone (L. C. D. Stat, 
 near the Sessions House) the line 
 passes N. of Pennenden Heath and 
 Boxley (Rte. 6). 
 
 3 m: Bearsted Stat. Bearsted is 
 said to be the cradle of the Bertie 
 family, who possessed lands here 
 before the reign of Henry II. At 
 the angles of the Perp. church-tower 
 are placed three nondescript figures, 
 called, though questionably, ' bears 
 seiant,' and supposed to refer to the 
 name of the parish, also said to re- 
 present the lion, ox, and eagle, sym- 
 bolical of SS. Mark, Luke, and John. 
 The village green is a very famous 
 spot for cricketers. At Ware Street, 
 in this parish, is a large tumulus, as 
 yet unexplored. 
 
 I m. S. of Bearsted is the Church 
 of Otham, which has some Norman 
 portions. Remark a door inserted 
 in the N. wall, with a hood mould- 
 ing carried quite to the ground on 
 either side. The Len here supplies 
 paper-mills as usual ; and the wide, 
 open country S. is famous for its 
 growth of fruit and hops. 1 m. E. 
 notice the fine park of Milgate (Mrs. 
 Knight), long the seat of the Cages, 
 an old Kentish family. 
 
 [At Thurnham, 1 m. N. of Bear- 
 sted, is an indifferent Dec. ch. with 
 a good E. window. Notice in the 
 ch.-yd. the tomb of Alfred Mynn, 
 the Kentish cricketer (d. 1861), raised 
 
ROUTE 10. — HOLLINGBOURNE — LEEDS. 
 
 245 
 
 by a public subscription, which also 
 sufficed to found a charitable fund 
 for other ' brethren of the bat/ On 
 the top of the chalk hill above the 
 village, and commanding a pass 
 through the valley below, which 
 leads to Sittingbourne, are the ruins 
 of GoddarcVs or Thumham Castle, the 
 history of which is altogether un- 
 known. The walls, built of rough 
 flint, are on the N. side about 13 ft. 
 high and 3 ft. in thickness. On the 
 other sides the foundations alone 
 remain traceable. E. of the area 
 inclosed, about \ of an acre, is an 
 artificial mound. Roman urns and 
 other remains have been found about 
 this hill ; but no branch road has 
 been traced to the Watling Street 
 through the valley below, though 
 one may very probably have existed. 
 Darell asserts (what was no doubt 
 the local tradition) that the castle 
 was built by a Saxon named Godard. 
 It was a complete ruin in Leland's 
 time.] 
 
 6 m. Hollingbourne (Stat.). The 
 village is a short distance N. of the 
 line. The church (Perp.) abounds 
 in monuments (16th and 17th cent.) 
 to the Colepeper family. An altar 
 cloth and pulpit cloth presented to the 
 church at the Restoration, and 
 worked by ladies of the family, are 
 still preserved. On the summit of 
 Hollingbourne Hill, the highest point 
 on the chalk downs (606 ft.), is 
 Hollingbourne House (R. Duppa, 
 Esq.), commanding extensive views. 
 The * Manor House' was erected in 
 the 15th cent., and 1 Godfrey House ' 
 in the century following. Both are 
 worthy of inspection. 
 
 2J m. on the road leading S. from 
 Hollingbourne Stat, is Leeds — the 
 Castle here is the great attraction 
 of this part of Kent. 
 
 The tasteless Horace Walpole, who 
 visited Leeds in 1752, pronounced 
 the picture of the Duchess of Buck- 
 ingham 'the only recompense for all 
 the fatigues he had undergone'; the 
 tourist of the present day, however, 
 
 will find no lack of occupation and 
 interest here. The Duchess's pic- 
 ture, moreover, is still to be seen. 
 
 Leeds (Domesday, Esledes — a word 
 which has certainly nothing to do 
 with the apocryphal Ledian, King 
 Ethelbert's 'chief counsellor/ who, 
 according to Kilburne, gave name to 
 the place ; it may perhaps be the 
 Sax. slade, an opening in the woods) 
 was early granted by the Conqueror 
 to the family of Crevecceur (Riven- 
 heart) of Chartham, who possessed 
 it till late in the reign of Henry 
 III., when it passed by exchange to 
 the Leybornes. William de Ley- 
 borne resigned it to Edward I., who 
 had remarked the importance of its 
 position. Bartholomew de Badles- 
 mere, called 4 the rich Lord Badles- 
 mere of Leeds,' was castellan here 
 under Edward II., and, joining the 
 Earl of Lancaster, held out the 
 castle against the queen, who had 
 attempted to gain possession of it 
 by a pretended pilgrimage to Can- 
 terbury. The ' rich lord ' was after- 
 wards hung at Canterbury. - The 
 castle, which was constantly a Royal 
 residence, remained in possession of 
 the crown, and after occasional 
 temporary grants, was at length 
 bestowed by Edward VI. on Sir 
 Anthony St. Leger. From his de- 
 scendants it passed through different 
 hands to the Colepepers, in 1632 ; 
 and, by marriage, to the Yorkshire 
 Fairfaxes. The present possessor, 
 Mrs. Wykeham Martin, is connected 
 by marriage with this family. 
 
 Leeds was the great central strong- 
 hold of Kent, and commanded the 
 very important line of road that 
 passed eastward to Canterbury and 
 the sea, keeping the high ground 
 above the deep clays of the Weald. 
 Abp. Arundel had a grant of the 
 Castle for his life, and many of his 
 instruments are dated from here 
 during the process against Lord Cob- 
 ham. Abp. Chicheley sat here during 
 some part of the trial of the Duchess 
 Eleanor of Gloucester for sorcery. 
 Leeds was visited frequently by 
 Richard II., and was one of the pri- 
 
216 
 
 ROUTE 10. — LEEDS! CASTLE. 
 
 sons in which that unhappy prince 
 was confined. Henry IV. was him- 
 self here in the second year of his 
 reign ; and Joan of Navarre, his 
 second wife, was imprisoned here 
 by Henry V., on a charge of con- 
 spiracy against his life. She was 
 afterwards removed to Pevensey. 
 There is extant a very curious mes- 
 sage from Henry V. to Parliament in 
 the last months of his life, asking 
 them to reverse the sentence of for- 
 feiture. (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 6.) 
 
 The castle stands in the centre 
 of a wide park, finely wooded, and 
 encircled by low green hills. Its 
 crown of towers and turrets rises 
 from the midst of a broad sheet of 
 water, forming a moat ; c the only 
 handsome object/ says Walpole. ' It 
 is quite a lake, supplied by a cascade 
 which tumbles through a bit of ro- 
 mantic grove' (the cascade, how- 
 ever tumbles out of the moat, not 
 into it). This is, in fact, a reach of 
 the Len rivulet, which winds through 
 the domain ; and which enabled the 
 owner of the castle to inundate at 
 will about 20 acres of the upper 
 valley. The main fortress dates 
 from the 13th cent. ; and although 
 it obtained little favour in the eyes 
 of Strawberry Hill, is of very high 
 value as a specimen of the military 
 architecture of that period. Much 
 of the present building is modern. 
 ' The Fairfaxes had fitted up a pert, 
 bad apartment in the fore part of the 
 
 castle They had a gleam 
 
 of Gothic in their eyes, but it soon 
 passed off into some modern win- 
 dows, and some that never were 
 ancient.' — Walpole. (This 4 pert ' 
 apartment was taken down in 1821, 
 and replaced by a building in the 
 style of Henry VIII. ; kept correct 
 by Mr. W. Twopeny.) The original 
 plan of the fortifications can be dis- 
 tinctly made out. The moat, or 
 lake, surrounds three small islands. 
 ' On the first are the remains of the 
 barbican, and adjoining the castle 
 mill. On the second is the gate- 
 house ; the outer bailey, surrounded 
 
 by a wall of enceinte ; and at the 
 farther end, one wing of the castle. 
 On the third, the principal mass of 
 the castle, and a small inner court. 
 The walls rise straight from the 
 water ; and there is a curious ori- 
 ginal boat-house under part of the 
 castle. Each island was connected 
 with the other by a drawbridge only, 
 so that each could be defended sepa- 
 rately.' — C. W. Martin, in Parker's 
 Domestic Architecture, vol. ii. The 
 buildings are of more than one 
 period, but a great part are of the 
 13th cent., and much still older, to 
 which no date can be assigned for 
 want of definite mouldings and de- 
 tails. In 1359 William of Wykeham 
 was appointed 1 chief warder and 
 surveyor' of the king's castle of 
 Leeds, which had fallen into a ruin- 
 ous state after the death of the ' rich 
 lord Badlesmere.' No works of his, 
 however, can be identified ; and in 
 the ministers' accounts he is only 
 recorded as having new fenced the 
 park. The windows of the chapel 
 are perhaps of earlier date. They 
 are filled with geometrical tracery, 
 which is said to have been restored 
 after the windows had been blown 
 in by a hurricane in 1314. (Comp. 
 the tracery in the hall windows of 
 Penshurst, and Mayfield, Sussex, 
 and in those of Chartham church ; 
 it is of the same character and period 
 as this, and is sufficiently peculiar 
 to have received the name of the 
 < Kentish tracery.') The upper storey 
 of the building on the third island 
 dates from the reign of Henry VIII., 
 and was erected by Sir Henry Guild- 
 ford, then constable of Leeds. The 
 lower was either built or extensively 
 repaired by Edw. I., circ. 1280. The 
 portion below again was, in the opi- 
 nion of Mr. J. H. Parker, the work 
 of Odo Bp. of Bayeux, half-brother of 
 the Conqueror. The Boat-house was 
 a swimming bath originally con- 
 structed for Edward in 1292. The 
 internal arrangements of the castle 
 have been greatly altered. The 
 family portraits have been saved. 
 Among them is the Duchess of 
 
ROUTE 10. — LEEDS 
 
 PRIORY — BICKNOR. 
 
 247 
 
 Buckingham (a Fairfax) mentioned 
 by Walpole. There are also minia- 
 tures of herself and of her husband, 
 and an oil-painting of his father. 
 The Fairfax papers have been dis- 
 persed. They were printed, how- 
 ever, by Bentley, with a much larger 
 number that did not come from 
 Leeds, under the title of the i Fair- 
 fax Correspondence/ 
 
 Such a castle as that of Leeds was 
 not complete without an adjoining 
 religious establishment ; and, ac- 
 cordingly, about £ m. distant, is the 
 site of Leeds Priory, founded in 
 1 1 19 by Robert de Crevecoeur for 
 Augustinian canons. After the Dis- 
 solution it was granted to the St. 
 Legers, from whom it passed through 
 a long succession of Coverts and 
 Merediths. The principal mass of 
 buildings was converted into a 
 dwelling-house by William Covert 
 in 1598, as appears by a date and 
 initials still remaining above a portal 
 here. The church, of which no 
 trace exists, was of unusual size and 
 beauty, and contained a famous 
 shrine of the Virgin. In it were 
 interred many of the Crevecoeurs. 
 The situation of the priory, on a 
 gentle rising ground, backed by 
 wood, and overlooking a stream fall- 
 ing into the Len, was very pleasant ; 
 and the scene is now almost the 
 single attraction remaining for the 
 tourist. On the stream is a very 
 ancient mill, once belonging to the 
 Augustinians. Portions of the priory 
 building remained until about a cen- 
 tury since. They were a short dis- 
 tance S. of the church. 
 
 In the hamlet of Nash, \ m. W. of 
 Leeds Castle, is Battle Hall (now a 
 farm-house) which should not be 
 left unvisited. The hall and one 
 wing are of the 14th cent. ; but con- 
 siderable alterations seem to have 
 been made temp. Hen. VIII. In 
 the hall, and close to the screen, are 
 a very beautiful stone lavatory and 
 cistern, the forms of which are un- 
 usual. There are but slight traces 
 of fortification at this place, the 
 
 early history of which is unknown. 
 Temp. Hen. VIII. it belonged to 
 Robert Chambre ; and it afterwards 
 became part of the Leeds Castle pro- 
 perty. 
 
 The village of Leeds is pictur- 
 esquely scattered over a series of 
 abrupt eminences. In it is a small 
 house, now a farm, which perhaps 
 dates from early in the 15th cent. 
 The lower part is of stone, with win- 
 dows of Perp. character ; the upper 
 part of wood, with open panellings 
 of good design. Above is a battle- 
 mented wooden stringcourse. The 
 roof is original and perfect. 
 
 The Church of Leeds has some 
 fragments of stained glass, and a good 
 screen of wood divides the chancel 
 from the nave. There are here some 
 elaborate i7th-cent. monuments for 
 the Merediths of the Priory and 
 Castle. Some of the fine old win- 
 dows were opened out at the re- 
 storation of the church in 1879. 
 
 Greenicay Court, now a farm-house, 
 near the rly. line, N.E. of Leeds, 
 S.E. of Hollingbourne, was the re- 
 sidence of the Colepepers from the 
 reign of Elizabeth, and was sold by 
 them to the Fairfaxes. (See ante.) 
 
 The churches of Frinsted, 
 Wormshill, and Bicknor, lying 
 nearly in a line from E. to W., about 
 2 111. N. of Hollingbourne, deserve a 
 careful examination from the very 
 early character displayed in portions 
 of them. 'The most ancient, and 
 apparently the original, portion of 
 Frinsted Ch. has circular, very short 
 and thick piers, with plain capitals, 
 except that two piers, in other re- 
 spects like the rest, have a Norm, 
 leaf, low and roughly carved, in their 
 capitals. In Wormshill Ch. the arches, 
 which are pointed, appear to be mere 
 perforations of the wall ; the sofletes 
 being single, the angles not cham- 
 fered, of the thickness of the wall, 
 flat and plain from one side to the 
 other. All these churches are small, 
 
248 ROUTE 10. — HARRIETSHAM — LENHAM. 
 
 particularly Bicknor ; which, how- 
 ever, comprises two side aisles, the 
 two intervening arches being low, 
 round, supported by heavy square 
 piers, and perfectly plain, except 
 some little Norm, ornament on the 
 capitals, of which the outline re- 
 sembles that of Steetly ch., Derby- 
 shire, fig. in Gloss, of Architecture' — 
 Hussey. The ch. of Huckinge, i m. W. 
 of Bicknor, has also Norman por- 
 tions. . Frinsted ch. has been re- 
 stored. Wrinsted Court, in this parish, 
 is the property of E. Leigh Pember- 
 ton, Esq. ; Torry Hill was the seat of 
 the eminent jurist Lord Kingsdown 
 (d. 1867). At Wychling Church 
 (ij m. from Wrinsted) a leaden font 
 probably 14th cent., was discovered, 
 built into a mass of brickwork. The 
 bowl is circular, n| in. deep, 1 ft. 
 8 in. diameter. 
 
 The drive from Hollingbourne 
 to Frinsted, between steep, wood- 
 covered hills, is very picturesque. 
 At Milsted, a short distance N. of 
 Frinsted, is a ch. with Trans.-Norrn. 
 portions, and some relics of stained 
 glass. Adjoining is Milsted Manor, 
 long the seat of the Tyldens.] 
 
 3 m. Harrietsham Stat. 
 
 (^Heriard's- or Hariarde's-ham — 
 Domes. Pop. 716.) The large Ch., 
 which has been restored, has an E. E. 
 chancel, the rest being chiefly Perp. 
 The S. aisle contains tombs of the 
 Stede family (16th cent.). At the 
 E. end of the N. aisle is part of an 
 older building— perhaps a former 
 church— the lower part has Norman 
 characteristics. Remark the font, of 
 which the shape is unusual. Some 
 good timbered houses exist in the 
 village, 
 
 ^m. N. of Harrietsham, is Siede Hill 
 (Capt. Baldwin^, from which a noble 
 view over the Weald is commanded. 
 
 10 m. Lenham. (Pop. 1608.) This 
 parish stretches across the valley 
 between the chalk and the sand- 
 hills. It formerly had no very high 
 reputation, agricultural or sanitary. 
 
 1 Ah, sir, poor Lenham ! ' was the 
 traditional reply of the inhabitants 
 to travellers inquiring its name (Has- 
 ted), but matters have now under- 
 gone a change for the better. The 
 church, is of much interest, and 
 should not be left unvisited. The main 
 chancel is E. E. with alterations, and 
 retains its ancient oaken stalls. On 
 the N. side, recessed in the wall, is 
 the effigy of a priest (temp. Edw. 
 III. ?) lying on the rt. side in an un- 
 usual position. Remark the piscina, 
 a Perp. insertion, placed under a 
 very wide arch. The main point of 
 interest, however, is the stone chair, 
 or sedile, on the S. side of the chan- 
 cel, with solid arms, and a cinque- 
 foil-headed canopy of much later 
 date. 1. is a lower seat, much 
 smaller, and without ornament. 
 The well-known chair in Corhamp- 
 ton ch. is ruder and earlier (Hand- 
 book for Hants) ; but this of Lenham 
 is well worth attention. The rest of 
 the ch. is Perp. There is a good 
 oaken lectern, and a richly-carved 
 pulpit of i7th-cent. work, and nu- 
 merous monuments of the Derings, 
 Brockwells, and others. On a tomb- 
 stone in the ch.-yd., to Robert Thomp- 
 son, mention is made of his having 
 been the grandson of a certain Mrs. 
 Mary Honeywood, who at the time 
 of her death had 367 descendants. 
 
 Two important springs rise at 
 Lenham. At Street Well, in the chalk, 
 is one of the heads of the river 
 Stour, which runs hence to Ashford, 
 where it is joined by the stream 
 flowing from the hills above Lymne. 
 At Ewell, on the W. side of the 
 parish, the Len (brook) rises from 
 the sand-rock, and runs W. to join 
 the Medway at Maidstone. 
 
 [The range of greensand, which 
 underlies the chalk, and is known as 
 the Quarry Hills, runs nearly parallel 
 with the direction that we are pur- 
 suing, and at an average distance of 
 3 m. S. It contains a group of 
 churches that may be readily visited 
 from Lenham : these are (proceeding 
 
ROUTE 10. SUTTON VALENCE — BOUGHTON MALHERBE. 24 9 
 
 from W. to E.)— Sutton Valence, 
 East Sutton, Ulcombe, and Boughton 
 Malherbe ; churches further E., as 
 Egerton and Little Chart, may be 
 better reached from the Headcorn or 
 Pluckley stations (Rte. 2). 
 
 At Sutton Valence (or Town 
 Sutton, as it is called) is a gram- 
 mar school (founded by W. Lambe, 
 a native, in 1578), which has more 
 than a local reputation. It, as well 
 as some adjacent almshouses, was 
 rebuilt in 1864 by the Clothworkers' 
 Company, who are the governors. 
 On a hill adjoining the ch. are some 
 scanty remains of a castle, the his- 
 tory of which is unknown, but which 
 was probably the work of one of the 
 Valences, Earls of Pembroke, who 
 held the manor for some time. The 
 fragment of keep-wall which exists 
 dates probably from the end of the 
 13th cent. About 10 ft. from the 
 ground there are some remarkable 
 cells in the thickness of the wall, 
 about 8 ft. long, 6 ft high, and 3 
 or 4 ft. wide. There is no external 
 opening, and their use is unknown. 
 
 In the chancel of East Sutton is 
 
 the brass of Sir Edward Filmer, his 
 wife, and 18 children (1629). His 
 son, the royalist, author of some re- 
 markable treatises on the 1 Natural 
 Power of Kings/ resided at East Sut- 
 ton Place (now belonging to his de- 
 scendant, Sir E. Filmer, Bart.) dur- 
 ing the civil wars, and had his house 
 plundered ten times 'for his loyalty.' 
 The present house, with its pictur- 
 esque gables, has been added to at 
 various times, but is mainly Eliza- 
 bethan. In the side chapel of the 
 ch. are two curious windows, said to 
 be i4th-cent. work. 
 
 Little Charlton (J. Corbett, Esq.) 
 in this parish, is an Eliz. house of 
 some interest, which has been re- 
 stored. 
 
 At Ulcombe, a place less known 
 than Sutton Valence, are some good 
 brasses of the St. Legers (1470) ; and 
 some very interesting wall-paintings 
 (early 14th cent.) were discovered in 
 
 the ch. in 1865. — Gent. Mag., Dec. 
 1865. 
 
 The Church of Boughton Mal- 
 herbe is Dec, and contains the effi- 
 gies of a cross-legged knight and of a 
 lady, belonging either to the Mal- 
 herbe family, which possessed the 
 manor temp. Hen. III., or to the 
 Peyforers of Colbridge Castle, some 
 traces of which exist S. of the ch. 
 Its materials are said to have been 
 used for building Boughton Place, 
 long the residence of the Wottons, 
 and afterwards the property of Sir 
 Horace Mann, the correspondent of 
 Walpole —called by Walton 'an an- 
 cient and goodly structure/ Here 
 was born, in 1566, Sir Henry Wotton, 
 of great reputation under James and 
 Charles I., but happiest in having 
 Isaac Walton for his biographer. 
 The place is now a farmhouse, but 
 retains 4 the advantage of its large 
 prospect * noticed by Walton. Some 
 of the ancient rooms also remain, 
 and are worth a visit. The circular 
 roof of the dining-hall is much en- 
 riched. On one of the chimney- 
 pieces is the date 1553. The house 
 was built by Sir Ed. Wotton, trea- 
 surer of Calais, temp. Hen. VIII., 
 and was visited by Q. Eliz. in 1573. 
 
 A short, distance N. of the ch. is 
 Chilstone Park (A. Akers- Douglas, Esq., 
 M.P.). 
 
 The valley overlooked by Sutton 
 Valence and by Boughton Malberbe 
 is traditionally said to have been an 
 arm of the sea ; and it is asserted 
 that an anchor was. discovered close 
 under the' walls of Sutton Castle 
 almost within living memory. The 
 sea cannot, however, have covered 
 this district within the historic 
 period. 
 
 3 m. N. E. of Lenham, standing 
 high among the chalk-hills, is the 
 Tudor mansion of Otterden Place (C. 
 W. Wheler, Esq., the representative 
 of a family that made extraordinary 
 sacrifices in the cause of Charles I.}. 
 It commands wide views over the 
 wooded country toward Faversham, 
 with distant glimpses of the mouth 
 
250 
 
 ROUTE 1 1 . — THE WEALD : HORSMONDEN. 
 
 of the Thames. The Ch., which is as 
 hideous as might be expected from 
 its date (1753), occupies the site of 
 an ancient one dedicated to St. Law- 
 rence, from which some i7th-cent. 
 monuments of Lewins and Curteises 
 (former possessors of Otterden) were 
 removed, and are here preserved. 
 
 3 m. N. is Doddington (Rte. 3.)] 
 
 At 13J m. Charing Stat. (Rte. 7), 
 a road turns off here to Canterbury 
 
 (post). 
 
 On leaving Charing the line passes 
 within sight of the Pilgrim's 
 Road on the 1. trending in a S.E. 
 direction towards Eastwell Park 
 (Rte. 7). The high tower of Chal- 
 lock Ch. may be seen to the N. of the 
 park. 
 
 16J m. Hothfield. On the rt. is 
 
 passed the village of Godinton. 
 
 19 \ m. Ashford junc. stat. (for 
 Canterbury, Dover, Rye, and Tun- 
 bridge). The church tower is a very 
 prominent object. (Rte. 2.) 
 
 Here it is necessary to change on 
 to the S.E. Rly. for Canterbury (Rte. 
 7). The road from Ashford enters 
 Canterbury at Wincheap, a broad street 
 entering Canterbury from the S. : 
 where formerly stood the Wincheap 
 Gateway. 
 
 BOTJTE 11. 
 
 THE WEALD I LAMBERHURST, 
 GOUDHURST, BEDGEBURY, 
 CRANBROOK, TENTERDEN. 
 
 This district is at present only 
 skirted by railways, which leave its 
 most attractive features at an incon- 
 venient distance from stations. A 
 line has been projected from Pad- 
 dock Wood via Horsmonden to 
 Goudhurst then dividing to Cran- 
 brook and Hawkhurst. The 
 district, if the visitor comes from 
 
 the S., may be conveniently entered 
 from Etchingham Stat, on the Tun- 
 bridge and Hastings line, whence 
 omnibuses run to Hawkhurst (5 m. 
 N.E.). If entered from Paddock 
 Wood the following is the best 
 route. 
 
 For Brenchley, see Rte. 2. 
 
 Horsmonden Church, 2 m. S. of 
 Brenchley, contains the very fine 
 Brass of John de Grof hurst, 1340, 
 probably the work of a French artist. 
 He wears the chasuble, ornamented 
 with a central pall- shaped apparel : 
 this, and the other ornaments 
 throughout, are of unusually good 
 design. The inscription across the 
 breast records the gift by De Grof- 
 hurst of the manor of ' Leueshothe ' 
 to Bayham Abbey. The wooden 
 porch of this church (restored by 
 Wyatt, 1868), with its rich Dec. 
 bargeboards, should be noticed. In 
 a field N. of the ch. is a remarkably 
 fine oak. Another large adjacent 
 tree is remarkable for having been 
 flayed all round, and the bark then 
 replaced ; it adhered, and the tree 
 is still flourishing. 
 
 The Rectory stands in park-like 
 grounds. The family of Grove hurst, 
 long settled at Grovehurst in this 
 parish, became extinct in the male 
 line temp. Rich. II. Lewisheath, 
 the manor granted to Bayham, is 
 also in Horsmonden ; as is Badmon- 
 den, where was a cell attached to the 
 priory of Beaulieu in Normandy. 
 
 Capel Manor (J. F. Austen, Esq.), 
 a modern mansion, in Italian Gothic, 
 built by T. W. Wyatt for the present 
 owner, contains many highly valu- 
 able early Italian pictures collected 
 by him. 
 
 Spelmonden, an ancient manor, S. 
 of Horsmonden Ch., now a farm- 
 house, has some fragments indicat- 
 ing former importance. The country 
 here is still much covered with oak- 
 wood, and as it rises toward the 
 ridge of Brenchley and Horsmonden 
 the views become very picturesque. 
 At Shirrenden (Col. Burr) is a lake of 
 
ROUTE 11. — LAMBERHURST — BAYHAM ABBEY. 251 
 
 about 20 acres in extent. Near the 
 rectory, on a hill, is a tower erected 
 to the memory of Sir Walter Scott, 
 containing a collection of his works. 
 
 Lamberhurst (partly in Sussex), 
 3 m. S. of Horsmonden, was formerly 
 a great seat of the iron manufacture 
 of the Weald. The railings of St. 
 Paul's Cathedral were made of iron 
 from these mines. The village stands 
 on high ground ; and the views from 
 the narrow common, looking west- 
 ward, are very fine. The E. E. and 
 Perp. Ch., with its shingled broach, 
 is picturesque, Dec. and Perp. Ad- 
 jacent is Court Lodge (W. C. Morland, 
 Esq.), built in the reign of King 
 James I. 
 
 2 m. from this, on the banks of the 
 Teise, an affluent of the Medway, 
 which originally surrounded the con- 
 vent, forming an island, entered by 
 a gateway and drawbridge over the 
 moat, is Bayham Abbey (Marquis 
 Camden). The ruins of the Abbey 
 (properly Priory) are shown on Tues. 
 and Frid. They consist of the ch., 
 of a gateway N.W. of the ch., and 
 some of its dependent buildings. 
 The walls of the nave, choir, and 
 transepts are tolerably perfect, in- 
 cluding three large window arches 
 of the clerestory. The ch., was 
 about 257 ft. long, very narrow 
 (about 24 ft.) and stone vaulted. 
 It is late E. E. with some Dec. addi- 
 tions in the nave. The details have 
 considerable beauty. Remark espe- 
 cially a cluster of foliage in the nave, 
 of admirable design and execution. 
 The East end was apsidal, this limb 
 of the cross being unusually short. 
 A pile of ruin marks the site of the 
 high altar. The ch. had no aisles, 
 but there are two chapels in the N. 
 transept which retain their vaulting. 
 A stone coffin and a few grave-slabs 
 also remain. 
 
 Judicious care has been bestowed 
 on the preservation of the ruins, 
 which are partly covered with ivy. 
 The floor of greensward is kept 
 [Kent] 
 
 smooth, and the whole is in excellent 
 order. 
 
 Bayham was a house of Premon- 
 stratensian canons, first founded at 
 Otteham, or Otham, near Hailsham, 
 in Sussex (see Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 
 6), and removed here in 1200, 
 owing to the poverty of the original 
 site. It was largely endowed by 
 Ralph de Dene, the founder of the 
 house at Otham, by Robert de Thurn- 
 ham, and by Ela de Sackville of 
 Buckhurst. The canons here were 
 in great favour with the surround- 
 ing peasantry, and on the Dissolu- 
 tion, after their first expulsion, a 
 i company with painted faces and 
 vizors ' drove out the commissioners, 
 and put the canons in place again, 
 though not to remain long. Car- 
 dinal Wolsey obtained a grant of it, 
 and on his disgrace it reverted to 
 the king. Elizabeth granted it to 
 Ant. Browne, Visct. Montague. It 
 was purchased in 17 14 by Chief 
 Justice Pratt, father of Chancellor 
 Camden, to whose descendant it 
 gives a subordinate title. 
 
 The peculiar form of the ch. pro- 
 claims to what religious order it be- 
 longed. Stern Premonstratensian 
 canons (the order was one of great 
 strictness) wanted no congregations 
 and cared for no processions ; there- 
 fore they built their ch. like a long 
 room. The churches of other re- 
 ligious orders, which sought more to 
 attract the people, exhibit arrange- 
 ments materially different. 
 
 The ruins are often visited from 
 Tunbridge Wells, from which they 
 are distant 6 m., but by footpath a 
 mile less. Both ride and walk are 
 very beautiful, especially the latter, 
 which leads through the woods, and 
 along the edge of an extensive sheet 
 of water formed by the first marquis. 
 The modern house, rebuilt in 1870, 
 is a handsome edifice in the Tudor 
 style (Brandon, archt.) It replaced 
 a mere villa lying so low as to have 
 its lawn and cellars flooded in win- 
 ter. The small E. E. ch. is a memo- 
 rial to the late Marquis Camden, who 
 died in 1866. 
 
 T 
 
252 ROUTE 11. — GLOUCESTER FURNACE — GOUDHURST. 
 
 On the stream about i m. below 
 Bayham Abbey is the site of Glou- 
 cester Furnace, an ancient iron- 
 work, so called in honour of a visit 
 from the Duke of Gloucester, son of 
 Queen Anne. This furnace had the 
 distinction of having cast the great 
 balustrade still remaining round the 
 greater part of St. Paul's Cathedral, 
 though the W. portion was removed 
 in 1873. This W. part of the Weald 
 at one time abounded in iron mines. 
 Laws were passed in Queen Eliza- 
 beth's time to restrain the wasteful 
 cutting down of the woods for use in 
 the furnaces. As late as 1740 there 
 were four furnaces in the Kentish 
 Weald, yielding 400 tons per annum. 
 
 2 J m. E. of Bayham, and close to 
 Lamberhurst village, is Scotney 
 Castle, an Edwardian moated 
 building, of which one fine round 
 tower, machicolated and moated, 
 remains, as well as the ruins of some 
 later buildings, now festooned with 
 creepers. It was a seat of Abp. 
 Chicheley, 1418, and long continued 
 the residence of his collateral de- 
 scendants the Darrells, whose house 
 here is said to have been rebuilt by 
 Inigo Jones. The modern house (E. 
 Hussey, Esq.), on the hill above, is 
 a Tudor mansion by Salvin. The 
 ensemble of this house overlooking 
 the beautiful wooded valley with a 
 rock garden formed out of a quarry, 
 on its slopes, and of the picturesque 
 moated ruin below, is very beautiful. 
 
 Goudhurst, 3 m. E. of Lamber- 
 hurst, is picturesquely seated on one 
 of the loftiest hills of the Weald. 
 The Church, dedicated to St. Mary, 
 mainly Perp., but with E. E. and 
 Dec. portions (restored by Slater), 
 contains several monuments of the 
 Colepepers of Bedgebury, the oldest 
 of which are two effigies of the 
 early 16th cent., in wood, lying 
 on a tomb in the S. aisle in a 
 projected oriel. Brass : J. Bedge- 
 bury, 1450. The W. front was re- 
 built in a mixed pseudo- Gothic and 
 classic style, temp. Chas. I., after it 
 
 had been damaged by lightning : 
 the tower deserves ascending for the 
 sake of the wide-spread views that 
 it commands, among which the great 
 Bedgebury wood is a very striking 
 feature. In the village remark a very 
 curious doorway to a cottage, 'of 
 oak, cinquefoiled, with two quatre- 
 f oiled circles in each spandrel.' It 
 is of the 15th cent. 
 
 The scene of G. P. R. James's 
 novel, The Smugglers, lies in and 
 around Goudhurst, and is founded 
 on the real exploits of Radford and 
 his band. 
 
 About 2 m. S. of Goudhurst, at 
 an elevation of 350 ft., lies Bedgebury 
 Park (P. Beresford-Hope, Esq., who 
 inherited it from his father, A. J. B. 
 Beresford-Hope, Esq., the co-restorer 
 of St. Augustine's, Canterbury, and 
 munificent patron of art and builder 
 of churches), long the residence of 
 the Bedgeburys and Colepepers. 
 Queen Elizabeth on her Wealden 
 progress, was received by one of the 
 latter family in the old moated house 
 (its site is now covered by the 
 lake). The present house was ori- 
 ginally built in 1688 by Sir James 
 Hayes, with funds derived from 
 a successful speculation with his 
 stepson, Lord Falkland, and others 
 (mentioned by Evelyn), to recover 
 the freight of a sunken Spanish 
 treasure-ship ; i spoliis profundi et 
 absconditis arenarum thesauris,' 
 as he says on the foundation- 
 plate, of which a duplicate exists 
 in the house. The house (a square 
 pile of red brick) was faced with 
 native sandstone, and wings added 
 by Lord Beresford ; and Mr. Beres- 
 ford Hope has recast it as a French 
 Louis XIV. chateau with Mansarde 
 roof by Carpenter, with a lofty 
 clock-tower and spire by Slater. 
 The interior is remarkable for the 
 ornamented ceilings, the pictures 
 and china, the grand staircase with 
 its Beauvais tapestry, and the private 
 Chapel. This, beside some Italian 
 paintings, has a carved oak reredos 
 set with plaques of Scriptural sub- 
 jects of i7th-cent. date, in repousse 
 
ROUTE 11. — KILNDOWN — CRANBROOK. 
 
 253 
 
 silver and carved ivory, and a win- 
 dow filled with a series of the Para- 
 bles in grisaille, by Clayton. 
 
 The grounds are traversed by four 
 pieces of water, at different levels. 
 A broad terrace, the formal garden 
 with fountain, overlooks these, and 
 leads by flights of steps to the 
 lawn, on which is a hawthorn 
 tree of great age, the branches 
 of which cover a circumference of 
 194 ft., with a height of 28 ft. ; 
 and adjacent to the house is a 
 noticeable weeping-ash. In the 
 pleasure-grounds is an aviary, and 
 in an adjoining paddock are some 
 Indian cattle. To the S., beyond the 
 lakes and blending with the park, 
 stretches Bedgebury Great Wood, a 
 range of woodland of nearly 2000 
 acres, partly of oak and partly of 
 pine, with occasional stretches of 
 heather. A stage is erected on a 
 knoll, whence a most extensive view 
 is commanded. The portion nearest 
 to the house has been converted into 
 a pinetum. 
 
 At Kilndown, adjoining the park, 
 1 m. off the road between Tunbridge 
 and Hastings, is a small Church, built 
 about 1840 (in the bad E. E. style 
 then prevailing), and endowed by 
 Lord Beresford. It has been amended 
 and decorated by Mr. Beresford- 
 Hope with painted glass, roodscreen, 
 stone pulpit, painting, &c, the effect 
 of which is gorgeous, though it 
 cannot cure the original defects of 
 the building. The stained glass 
 (fixed in 1842), exhibiting figures 
 of Western fathers and English 
 saints, among which is * Carolus 
 Rex et Martyr,' is Munich work, 
 and amongst the best specimens of 
 that school of glass-painting. Obs. in 
 the churchyard the beautiful high 
 tomb of Field Marshal Lord Beres- 
 ford, the hero of Albuera, and his 
 lady, under a groined canopy, not un- 
 like that of Archbishop Gray in York 
 Minster, designed by Mr. Carpenter. 
 A model of this tomb was in the Ex- 
 hibition of 1862. Notice the reredos, 
 a memorial to Miss Catherine Beres- 
 
 ford-Hope (d. 1869^, and the beauti- 
 ful lych-gate given by the late Mr. 
 Beresford-Hope. 
 
 In the neighbourhood are Finch- 
 cocks, a large i7th-cent. brick 
 mansion, in a picturesque park ; 
 now the property of E. Hussey, Esq., 
 of Scotney, a residence of Mrs. Har- 
 rison-Blair ; (a mansion is said to 
 have existed here from the time of 
 Henry III. belonging to a family 
 whence the estate derived its name ; 
 the present house was built by one 
 of the Bathursts, from which family 
 it passed to the Springetts, and 
 from them to the present owner 
 in 1864 ; see post ;) and Twyssai- 
 dcn, now a farmhouse on the Bedge- 
 bury estate. It was originally the 
 property of the Twysdens, then of 
 the Fowle family, and temp. Anne 
 of Baron Gilbert. The house, 
 partly half-timbered of Tudor date, 
 and partly of Jacobean stonework, is 
 curious for the intricacy of its 
 internal arrangements, and contains 
 in the roof what must have been a 
 secret R. C. chapel. Combwell is a 
 farmhouse, i| m. S. of Twyssenden, 
 which indicates the site of the Au- 
 gustinian priory. It has for several 
 generations been the property of the 
 Campions of Danny (Hdbk. Sussex, 
 Rte. 3), whose stately mansion at 
 Combwell was pulled down about 
 1765. 
 
 Cranbrook, 3 m. E. of Goudhurst 
 (Pop. 3053), the principal market- 
 town of the Weald, is built on the 
 outlying ridge of Hastings sand that 
 extends from Tunbridge Wells to 
 Rolvenden. The old importance of 
 Cranbrook arose from its being the 
 centre of the clothing trade, intro- 
 duced here by the body of Flemings 
 whom Edward III. induced to settle 
 in England. The broadcloth manu- 
 facture was concentrated and carried 
 on at Cranbrook long before the in- 
 troduction of machinery elsewhere. 
 Most of the landed proprietors in the 
 Weald took part in it ; and the resi- 
 dences of several such at the present 
 
 t 2 
 
25 4 ROUTE 11. — CRANBEOOK 
 
 CHUECH — SISSINGHUEST. 
 
 day are merely the old factories 
 modernised, as Swifts (Col. B. Alexan- 
 der). The ' grey-coats of Kent/ as 
 they were called from the dress worn 
 by them of their own cloth, carried 
 all . before them in county matters. 
 The clothworks ceased here toward 
 the beginning of the present century; 
 but there are still some remains of 
 the old factories in the principal 
 street, not unpicturesque with gables 
 and bargeboards. There is a story 
 that Queen Elizabeth, after visiting 
 Cranbrook and the factories, walked 
 to Coursehorne manor, a mile dis- 
 tant, the seat of the Hendleys, en- 
 tirely on broadcloth. 
 
 The large Church, mainly Perp., 
 retaineduntil recently some of its fine 
 ancient painted glass. This has been 
 removed and re-inserted in the N. 
 aisle. The porch and lower part of 
 tower have groined roofs. The 
 bearing-shafts of the old nave roof 
 (removed) are still attached to the 
 walls. In the chancel are the helm, 
 surcoat, gloves, and spurs, of one 
 of the Robertses of Glassenbury, but 
 attributed by tradition to Sir John 
 Baker, the builder of Sissinghurst, a 
 fierce opponent of the ' professors ' 
 of Cranbrook ; a remarkable chamber 
 over the S. porch is still called 
 ' Bloody Baker's Prison/ probably 
 from its iron-barred windows. A 
 curious evidence of the prevalence 
 of Anabaptist opinions among the 
 people of Cranbrook is furnished by 
 a 'dipping-place' for adults, con- 
 structed in the ch. by the Rev. 
 John Johnson, vicar here 1707-25, 
 and the well-known author of ' The 
 Unbloody Sacrifice/ &c. Dissenters 
 are still very numerous. 
 
 The Grammar- School, of Elizabethan 
 foundation, has been raised to the 
 rank of a small ' public school ' by 
 the exertions of the late head master, 
 the Rev. J. L. Allan, who died in 
 March, 1866. The Vestry-hall, serving 
 also as court-house and market-house, 
 of brick, is by Bulmer, architect, of 
 Maidstone ; it is of Tudor design. 
 The artists T. Webster and J. C. 
 
 Horsley settled at Cranbrook, and 
 obtained their subjects and models 
 from the neighbourhood. 
 
 Sissinghurst, a corruption of 
 Saxenhurst, to which family it gave 
 name, 2 m. N.E., was the birthplace 
 of Sir Rich. Baker, the chronicler, 
 whose family settled here temp. 
 Henry VII. The house, which was 
 very stately, was built by Sir John 
 Baker, temp. Edward VI. He was 
 Recorder of London, and then At- 
 torney-General, was sent as am- 
 bassador to Denmark in 1526, and 
 was Chancellor of the Exchequer 
 under Mary. He was a thorn in the 
 sides of the professors of the new 
 opinions settled in the Weald, and 
 is popularly said to have been killed 
 in a skirmish with them at a place 
 now called Baker's Cross, 1 m. out 
 of Cranbrook, on the Tenterden road ; 
 but this is a mistake, as he died in 
 his house at London, December, 1558. 
 After having been long uninhabited 
 Sissinghurst was, toward the end of 
 the last century, made a place of 
 confinement for French prisoners, 
 and has since been pulled down 
 piecemeal. It is the property of 
 Viscountess Holmesdale, who in- 
 herited it from her father, the last 
 Earl Cornwallis. The great entrance 
 and some other fragments remain. 
 The situation is low, but the ruins 
 and the woodland about them are 
 worth a visit. 
 
 3 m. W. of Cranbrook is Glassen- 
 bury, a moated house, modernised 
 and restored (1868) by Salvin. It is 
 the seat of Major Atkin-Roberts, 
 whose family has been settled in 
 these parts since Henry I., and on 
 this spot since Richard II. 
 
 Cranbrook is a good centre from 
 which to explore the picturesque 
 country lying on the Sussex border. 
 (See Hdbk. Sussex.) In a house 
 between Cranbrook and Goudhurst 
 that strange fanatic i W. Huntington 
 S. S./ was born. (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 
 4.) A curious custom prevails here 
 and in several other parts of the 
 county. When a newly-married 
 
ROUTE 11. — HAWKHURST — ROLVENDEN. 255 
 
 couple leave the church, the path is 
 strewed with emblems of the bride- 
 groom's calling. Thus, carpenters 
 walk on shavings, butchers on sheep- 
 skins, shoemakers on leather-par- 
 ings, and blacksmiths on scraps of 
 old iron. It is meant as a token of 
 good will from other members of the 
 craft. 
 
 Hawkhurst* (partly in Sussex) 
 lies 5 m. S. of Cranbrook. Before 
 reaching it we see a beautiful Church 
 at Highgate, an outlying portion of 
 the parish, built and endowed by 
 the incumbent (Rev. H. A. Jeffreys) 
 and his family, Sir G. G. Scott, 
 architect, in a style formed on early 
 French, but with the characteristics 
 of S. E. England. Hawkhurst stands 
 in a charming country 4 m. from 
 Etchingham Stat., 1 m. further S., 
 and is a particularly agreeable-look- 
 ing place (Pop. 3097). The large 
 sandstone Church is Dec. and Perp. 
 The rich and peculiar tracery of the 
 E. window deserves notice (comp. 
 Etchingham, Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 1). 
 It has been well restored by Carpen- 
 ter and Slater. There are N. and S. 
 porches, each with a parvise chamber. 
 Notice tiles with crosses in the ch.- 
 path. The Abbot of Battle, lord of 
 the manor, erected the first ch. here, 
 temp. Rich. I. Hawkhurst, like all 
 the villages in this neighbourhood, 
 had, for great part of the last century, 
 a bad pre-eminence as the resort of 
 smugglers and ' water-thieves. ' ' I 
 found an old newspaper t'other day,' 
 wrote Walpole in 1750, to Montague, 
 who had an estate near Hawkhurst, 
 1 with a list of outlawed smugglers. 
 There were John Price, alias Miss 
 Marjoram, Bob Plunder, Bricklayer 
 Tom, and Robin Cursemother,— all 
 of Hawkhurst in Kent.' The iron- 
 furnaces of Hawkhurst were at one 
 time the property of William Penn, 
 the courtier-quaker, who possessed 
 many others in Sussex. 
 
 Close to the village is CoUingwood 
 (long the residence of Sir John W. 
 Herschel, Bart., the great astrono- 
 mer) ; and near it Lillesden. once the 
 
 seat of the Chittendens, great cloth- 
 iers, temp. Elizabeth, and now occu- 
 pied by Col. Loyd. Another Eliza- 
 bethan house is Elfords (Col. Prevost). 
 
 Seacox Heath is the modern Gothic 
 seat of Rt. Hon. G. J. Goschen. 
 
 Elm Hill (C. E. Jenings, Esq.) 
 commands fine views, extending as 
 far as Fairlight. 
 
 Ash field (Mrs. Springett) is the es- 
 tate of a family who played a con- 
 spicuous part in the history of Kent 
 and Sussex in the 17th cent. Sir 
 W. Springett, killed at the siege of 
 Arundel ; Sir Herbert Springett, the 
 royalist ; Gulielma, wife of Sir VV. 
 Penn, and Herbert Springett, his 
 associate in Pennsylvania, were of 
 this family. 
 
 Dr. Nath. Lardner, who wrote on 
 the Credibility of the Bible, and 
 other valuable theological works, 
 was born at Hawkhurst, 1684. 
 
 Benenden, 3! m. S.E. of Cran- 
 brook, has a Ch., mainly Perp., but 
 with some Dec. portions. It has 
 been restored by Lord Cranbrook, 
 the owner of Hemsted Park ad- 
 joining, formerly the seat of Mr. 
 Law Hodges, a Kentish Parliament- 
 ary celebrity. The present house, 
 in the Jacobean style (D. Brandon, 
 architect), occupies the highest point 
 of the Weald, and commands mag- 
 nificent views. 
 
 Rolvenden, 2} m. S.E. of Ben- 
 enden, has a Perp. Church (restored) 
 of some interest. The font is Dec. 
 and good ; a brass records the founda- 
 tion of the S. chancel by the 
 Guildford family in 1444. At Fors- 
 ham % in this parish, are the founda* 
 tions of a stone building which has 
 been variously called a chapel and a 
 1 fort. ' There is no trace of its history. 
 The approach to Tenterden from Rol- 
 venden is very picturesque, the high 
 ground commanding a view over the 
 rich lands through which the Rother 
 makes its way to the sea, at times 
 insulating large tracts, and at others 
 spreading out into lake-like reaches. 
 
 About 3 m. S. of Rolvenden is 
 
256 
 
 ROUTE 1 1 . — SANDHURST — TENTERDEN. 
 
 ^Newenden. In the Ch. (restored by 
 Hills) is a remarkable font, square, 
 with carved sides, at least early 
 Norm. There is a good Dec. screen. 
 The first English establishment of 
 Carmelite friars is said to have 
 been made at Losenham in this 
 parish, in 1241, but this honour is 
 contested by the Carmelite Friary 
 at Aylesford (see Rte. 6), which at 
 all events was a more important 
 one. No remains of the Losenham 
 Priory exist. This monastery is 
 thought by Camden to have been 
 founded on the site of the ancient 
 Anderida, which had hitherto re- 
 mained desolate after its destruction 
 by the Saxons ; and at some distance 
 from Losenham House is a spot 
 called 1 Castle Toll, 5 where are traces 
 of large and deep intrenchments, en- 
 closing a lofty mound. These re- 
 mains, the age of which is uncertain, 
 were at one time regarded as traces 
 of the ancient city. The claims of 
 Newenden, however, have been set 
 aside by the Eev. A. Hussey (Notes 
 on Kentish Churches), and the balance 
 of testimony is in favour of fixing 
 Anderida at Pevensey. (See Hdbk. 
 Sussex, Rte. 6.) 
 
 The Church of Sandhurst, 3 m. W. 
 
 of Newenden, on the Sussex border, 
 is very early Dec, and worth a visit, 
 in spite of much mutilation. The 
 western tower has a small aisle, N. 
 and S. (comp. Seaford, Hdbk. Sussex, 
 Rte. 4.) In the N. chancel are 
 some remains of stained glass, 
 among which is the figure of an 
 armed knight, said to be that of 
 John de Betherinden, lord of the 
 manor temp. Edw. II. 
 
 Tenterden, 3 m. N.E. of Rolven- 
 den, is a very clean handsome town 
 (Pop. 3242), and a corporation under 
 charter from Elizabeth. The main 
 street is noticeable for the open green 
 that occupies part of it, and along 
 the S. side of which numerous villa 
 residences are grouped in a very 
 pleasing manner. But the great ob- 
 ject of interest is the Church, partly 
 E. E., with the tall Perp. tower, the 
 
 traditional cause of the Goodwin 
 Sands. The tower is fine and mas- 
 sive, the largest and most important 
 in the district. It is remarkable for 
 having two small W. doors side by side, 
 instead of one large one. The ch. has 
 been restored (G. Hills, architect'. 
 On the N. side of the church is a 
 building formerly used as a penitenti- 
 ary ; here persons accused of heresy 
 were confined previous to their trial. 
 
 Tenterden Church belonged to the 
 abbey of St. Augustine, Canterbury ; 
 and Kentish tradition asserts that 
 the abbot, during the building of the 
 steeple, employed for the work a 
 quantity of stone which had been 
 collected for the strengthening of 
 the sea-wall of the Goodwins, then 
 a part of the mainland. The next 
 storm, in consequence, submerged all 
 that district, of which the Goodwin 
 Sands are the existing remains, and 
 thus the steeple came to be regarded 
 as the cause of the quicksands. 
 It need hardly be said that the 
 story is a myth, and that the Good- 
 wins were probably in existence 
 long before any tower overlooked 
 Romney Marsh from the heights 
 of Tenterden. The existing Per- 
 pendicular tower was, however, ac- 
 cused as the cause of the sands, and 
 of the silting up of Sandwich haven, 
 when Sir Thomas More visited the 
 district ; and the story is thus told 
 by Latimer (Sermons), as illustrat- 
 ing the value of hasty inferences : — 
 ' Maister More was once sent in 
 commission into Kent, to help to trie 
 out (if it might be) what was the 
 cause of Goodwin Sandes, and the 
 shelfs that stopped up Sandwich 
 Haven. Thether commeth Maister 
 More, and calleth the countrye afore 
 him, such as were thought to be men 
 of experience, and men that could of 
 likelihode best certify him of that 
 matter, concerning the stopping of 
 Sandwich haven. Among others 
 came in before him an olde man 
 with a white head, and one that was 
 thaught to be a litle lesse than an 
 hundereth yeares olde. When Maister 
 More saw this aged man, he thought 
 
ROUTE 11. — TENTERDEN — HIGH HALDEN. 257 
 
 it expedient to heare him say his 
 minde in this matter, for, being so 
 olde a man, it was likely that he 
 knew most of any man in that pre- 
 sence and company. So Maister 
 More called this olde aged man unto 
 him, and sayd, " Father," sayd he, 
 " tell me, if ye can, what is the cause 
 of this great arising of the sande 
 and shelves here about this haven, 
 and which stop it up that no shippes 
 can arive here ? Ye are the oldest 
 man that I can espie in all this com- 
 panye, so that, if any man can tell 
 any cause of it, ye of likelihode can 
 say most in it, or at least wise more 
 than any other man here assembled," 
 " Yea, forsooth, good maister," quod 
 this olde man, "for I am well nigh 
 an hundreth yeares old, and no 
 man here in this company anything 
 neare unto mine age." "Well then," 
 quod Maister More, ' 1 how say you in 
 this matter ? What thinke ye to be 
 the cause of these shelves and flattes 
 that stoppe up Sandwiche haven ? " 
 "Forsooth, syr," quoth he, "I am an 
 olde man : I thinke that Tenterton 
 [Tenterden] steeple is the cause of 
 Goodwin Sandes. For I am an olde 
 man, syr," quod he, "and I may re- 
 member the building of Tenterton 
 steeple, and I may remember when 
 there was no steeple at all there. 
 And before that Tenterton steeple 
 was in building, there was no manner 
 of speaking of any flats or sands that 
 stopped the haven ; and therefore I 
 thinke that Tenterton steeple is the 
 cause of the destroying and decay- 
 ing of Sandwich haven." — And even 
 so, to my purpose, is preaching of 
 God's worde the cause of rebellion, 
 as Tenterton steeple is a cause that 
 Sandwich haven is decayed.' 
 
 ' Tenterden steeple ' is a very con- 
 spicuous and handsome object, which- 
 ever way the town is approached, 
 but the eye of the visitor is also 
 caught by the lofty spire of St. 
 Michael's, Boar's-isle, a modern ch., 
 by Gordon Hills, near the East 
 Cross, an open space commanding a 
 fine view. At the opposite end of 
 the town is West Cross, where 
 
 stands the ivy-clad Elizabethan 
 gate-house of Heronden Court (J. D. 
 Palmer, Esq.) ; the house itself is 
 modern. Hales Place, now a farm- 
 house, was a residence of the Hales 
 family, who also possessed Hales 
 Place near Canterbury, p. 159. 
 
 Tenterden lies in the district called 
 ' The Seven Hundreds/ which long 
 formed a part of the Crown posses- 
 sions, and were placed under the 
 jurisdiction of one court. Henry VI. 
 united Tenterden to the Cinque Port 
 of Rye, of which it is still a member. 
 As late as the middle of the 16th 
 cent, an estuary extended from Rye 
 as far as Small Hythe in Tenterden 
 (2 m. S., on the road to Wittersham), 
 where is a chapel dedicated to St. 
 John the Baptiot, in the church- 
 yard of which shipwrecked corpses 
 were usually buried. The edifice has 
 been in a measure restored, after a 
 long period of neglect and disuse ; 
 but much more needs to be done 
 to it. 
 
 5 m. S.E. of Tenterden is Apple- 
 dore, on a hill overlooking Romney 
 Marsh. The rly. stat. is i| m. E., 
 in the parish of Kenardington. (See 
 Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 2.) 
 
 Leaving Tenterden for Ashford, 
 where we may close our tour of the 
 Weald, we have at 1 m. the hamlet 
 of Boars' -isle, with the handsome 
 ch. already mentioned. The country 
 around exhibits that richness of soil 
 for which the district is so famed, 
 but another of its distinctions, its 
 noble timbered dwellings, are giving 
 way to substantial, but very unpic- 
 turesque, brick ones. 
 
 At 3 \ m. from Tenterden we reach 
 High Halden, where the ch. has a 
 very singular wooden tower and 
 belfry-spire (temp. Henry VI.) ; the 
 enormous timbers of which they are 
 built are well worth inspection. 
 (Comp. Kenardington, Hdbk. Sussex, 
 Rte. 2.) This ch. was well restored 
 in 1870 (G. E. Street, architect), at 
 the expense of Mrs. E. Sutton. 
 
258 
 
 ROUTE 1 1 . — BIDDENDEN — SMARDEN. 
 
 3 m. W. of High Halden is 
 Biddenden, where is a ch. of some 
 interest, with portions ranging from 
 E.E. to late Perp. The E. E. font 
 is worth notice. There are numerous 
 brasses and monuments of 15th and 
 1 6th cents. 
 
 The following quaint custom for- 
 merly prevailed here. On the after- 
 noon of Easter Sunday a quantity 
 of flat cakes, stamped with the 
 figures of two women, united at 
 the sides after the fashion of the 
 Siamese twins, were distributed in 
 the ch. porch to all comers. Bread 
 and cheese to a considerable amount 
 were given at the same time to the 
 poorer parishioners. The distri- 
 bution now takes place on Easter 
 Monday, and at the Workhouse. 
 This, says tradition, was the legacy 
 of twin-sisters, called ' the Maids of 
 Biddenden ' (' Elisa and Mary Chalk- 
 hurst/) who lived for 34 years,united 
 according to the representation on 
 the cakes, and whose grave is shown 
 in the ch. near the rector's pew. 
 Tradition - disturbing antiquaries, 
 however, insist that the figures are 
 those of two poor widows, the Bidden- 
 den art-conception of 1 Charity/ and 
 that the cakes were the gift of two 
 maiden ladies named Preston, who 
 left 20 acres of land to the parish for 
 this purpose. 
 
 At Standen, 1 m. N. of the ch., is 
 an interesting timbered house, built 
 1578. Over the front door is the 
 sentence, ' Blessed are they that 
 hear the word of God and keepeth 
 it.' The chimney-pieces are of 
 Weald marble, abounding through- 
 out the district. Altogether, this 
 specimen of a Wealden dwelling de- 
 serves examination. It may here 
 be mentioned that somewhere in the 
 Weald — the exact spot is unknown 
 — was the birthplace of William 
 Caxton, the first English printer, 
 d. 1494. i I was born/ he says, 1 and 
 lerned myne English, in Kente, in 
 the Weeld, where English is spoken 
 broad and rude.' 
 
 3 m. beyond High Halden is 
 
 Bethersden, famous for its quar- 
 ries of marble, filled with minute 
 shells, and resembling that of Pet- 
 worth. This is now little worked ; 
 but its ancient reputation is shown 
 by the extensive use of it in Canter- 
 bury and Rochester cathedrals, and 
 by numerous monumental effigies 
 sculptured in it, and existing in 
 different parts of the county. The 
 shells of which this marble is almost 
 entirely composed are freshwater 
 species, and consist (as at Petworth) 
 of Paludince and minute crustaceans 
 of the genus Cypris. In the pre- 
 macadamite period Bethersden en- 
 joyed an evil reputation for the 
 depth and danger of its roads (they 
 are still the worst in the district^, 
 which here, as throughout the 
 Weald, were for the most part nar- 
 row lanes between the woods, all 
 but impassable in winter. The 
 sward was cleared off these 1 turn- 
 pike-roads/ and as soon as they 
 became tolerably dry in summer, 
 they were ploughed up, and the 
 surface soil ' laid in a half-circle to 
 dry thoroughly/ {Hasted.) Great 
 ladies were thus obliged to travel 
 to church in carriages drawn by a 
 team of oxen. The ch. (restored) 
 is late Perp. Brasses — W. Lovelace, 
 citizen of London, 1459 ; Thomas 
 Lovelace, 1591. Notice in the church- 
 yard a very fine marble monumental 
 cross, and the strangely - clipped 
 holly-trees. 
 
 The Ch. of Smarden, 3 m. N.W. 
 
 of Bethersden, has on either side 
 the chancel-arch some unusual tre- 
 foil-headed ornamentation, which 
 may be part of a reredos ; it de- 
 serves examination. 
 
 4 m. from Bethersden is the large 
 and handsome Dec. and Perp. Ch. 
 of Chart Magna (or Chart Leadon, 
 or Great Chart, as it is also called). 
 It has been restored, and contains 
 several good Brasses (1470 to 1680), 
 many of them relating to the Tokes 
 of Godinton (Kte. 2), one of whom 
 built alms-houses in the village, now 
 rebuilt, and giving, with the sub- 
 
ROUTE 12. ASHFORD TO FAVERSHAM. 
 
 259 
 
 stantial cottages, an unusual air of 
 neatness and comfort. A great yew- 
 tree in the churchyard is a conspi- 
 cuous object for miles around. 
 
 At 12 m. we reach the outskirts 
 of Ashford junct. Stat. (Rte. 2). 
 On the borders of the Weald and 
 Romney Marsh district are one or 
 two places best reached from the 
 line from Ashford to Hastings. 
 From Ham Street Stat, we may 
 visit Bilsington and Bonnington, 
 near the Military Canal (Rte. 14). 
 Each of these churches shows Nor- 
 man windows, revealed during the 
 recent restoration, and some ancient 
 glass is still found, in one fragment 
 of which is a singular subject — God 
 the Father seated on the Sepulchre 
 holding the Son upon his knees. 
 At Bilsington was a Monastery of 
 Augustinian Canons : its remains 
 form part of a farm-house. Wood 
 church (4 1 m. N.W of Ham Street) 
 has a fine E. E. church, with good 
 font and fine chancel. There are 
 many good tombs — one to Sir E. 
 Waterhouse, Chancellor of the Ex- 
 chequer in Ireland, 1591. There are 
 several good Brasses — the oldest, 
 Nicholas de Gore, 1320. Sir Simon 
 de Woodchurch, the 1 hammer of 
 the Scots,' and Sir John Clarke, 
 distinguished at the battle of Poic- 
 tiers, were interred here. Apple- 
 dore (Rte. 11) is the next stat. 
 Wittersham (6 m. S.W. of Apple- 
 dore) was formerly a town of some 
 size. The church stands well (De- 
 corated), and has some old glass. 
 [The line may be gained again at 
 Rye Stat. (Rte. 14) 5 m. S. of Witters- 
 ham.] Adjoining Wittersham is 
 Stone, where in the vicarage gar- 
 den is preserved an altar (Roman) 
 formerly kept in the church. Stone 
 and Wittersham are in the 1 Isle of 
 Oxney,' formed by the Rother and 
 its tributaries. At Kenardington, 
 2 m. N.W. of Appledore, are traces 
 of the earthworks said to have been 
 raised by the Saxons against the 
 Danes when they invaded the Marsh 
 in the 9th cent. Warehorne Ch. 
 
 (midway between Kenardington and 
 Ham Street) has a brass to T. Jekyn, 
 rector, 1483. 
 
 ROUTE 12. 
 
 ASHFORD TO FAVERSHAM, BY 
 BADLESMERE. 1 3 1*1. 
 
 This road commands many fine 
 prospects, and passes several places 
 of interest. 
 
 2 m. Kennington, on rising 
 ground, overlooking the valley of 
 the Stour. The ch. has a tower 
 with low spire. At 3]- m. we come 
 to the S.E. angle of Eastwell Park 
 (Rte. 7), beside which we pass, leav- 
 ing Boughton Aluph on the E. ^Rte. 
 7), until at 5 m. we leave the park, 
 with the ch. of Challock, on W., 
 and skirt Challock Wood, one of the 
 most picturesque minglings of wood- 
 land, rabbit-warren, chalk-pits, and 
 hop-gardens in Kent. At 5] m. a 
 road turns offE. to Wye (Rte. 7), and 
 at 6 m. we cross the road from Maid- 
 stone to Canterbury (Rte. 10). 
 
 At 8} m. notice on W. the small 
 E. E. ch. of Leaveland, near to 
 which is a picturesque old farm- 
 house, at which the ancient font 
 removed from the church is pre- 
 served, and at 9 m. we reach Bad- 
 lesmere (Pop. 157). The Church, a 
 mere fragment of a Dec. structure, 
 has some small remains of painted 
 glass, but is more noticeable for the 
 two enormous yew-trees which stand 
 on its S. side. The manor belonged 
 to Odo of Bayeux, then formed one 
 of the possessions of the Crevecoeurs, 
 and was held of them by the i rich 
 Lord Badlesmere,' who was executed 
 in 1322 (see Leeds Castle, Rte. 10) ; 
 his son Giles was restored in blood, 
 but died issueless, when his sister 
 Maude conveyed it to De Vere, Earl 
 of Oxford. Since their time it has 
 passed through the hands of the 
 Howards, then to Sir Humphrey 
 
260 
 
 ROUTE 13. — ISLE OF SHEPPEY. 
 
 Gilbert, the navigator and colonizer 
 of Elizabeth's days, and is now pos- 
 sessed by Lord Sondes of Lees Court. 
 In a field S.E. of thech. the founda- 
 tions of the mansion of i the rich 
 lord ' may be traced. 
 
 9J m. On W. i m. Throwley 
 
 (Pop. 631), where was once a priory 
 founded in 1 153 by William d' Ypres. 
 The ch. has Norm, portions, but 
 the tower is Perp. ; it contains in 
 the S. chancel several monuments 
 to the Sondes family, of good de- 
 sign ; and in the N. chancel a 
 monument to George, first Lord 
 Harris, the hero of the East Indian 
 warfare. 1 m. N.W. is Belmont 
 (Lord Harris), seated on a hill com- 
 manding a wide prospect. The latter 
 years of the life of the captor of 
 Seringapatam were passed in adorn- 
 ing this beautiful place. 
 
 10 m. Sheldwich (Pop. 648). The 
 Church, of which has been well re- 
 stored, and a N. aisle added. (During 
 the restoration the remarkable and 
 beautiful window (triangular, with 
 wheel centre) in the E. gable of the 
 nave was brought to view, after being 
 blocked up for centuries. This can 
 best be seen from the S.W. corner of 
 the churchyard.) It is Dec, but has 
 Trans. -Norm, traces. It contains the 
 fine Brass of Sir Richard Atte Lese, 
 and his wife Dionysia, 1394 ; another 
 for John Cely, Esq., and his wife 
 Isabella, 1426 ; and a curious half 
 effigy in shroud, for Joan Mareys, 
 1431. 1 m. E. of the ch. is Lees 
 Court (Lord Sondes). The mansion 
 was built by Inigo Jones. It was the 
 residence of Sir George Sondes, a 
 very famous Kentish cavalier, created 
 Earl of Faversham by Charles II. as 
 some recompense for his sufferings 
 and losses in the Great Rebellion. 
 He sustained, however, two losses 
 that could not be made good, as his 
 youngest son was hanged in 1657 f° r 
 the murder of his elder brother. 
 
 At 11 m. the graceful spire of 
 Faversham comes in sight, and at 
 I2|m. we reach Preston. Ospringe 
 
 lies 1 m. W., and Faversham 
 I m. N., being approached by Pres- 
 ton Street. 
 
 ROUTE 13. 
 
 THE ISLE OF SHEPPEY. * QUEEN- 
 BOKOUGH, SHEERNESS, MINSTER, 
 EASTCHURCH. 
 
 The Isle of Sheppey (comprising 
 also the lesser isles of Elmley and 
 Harty) may be visited (a) by steam- 
 boat from Strood pier (Rte. 6), or (6) 
 by railway from Sittingbourne (Rte. 
 3), or (c) by rly. direct from Chatham, 
 without entering, or changing at, 
 Sittingbourne. 
 
 (a) By River — Strood to Sheerness. 
 
 The Medway Company's steam- 
 boats in their way down the river 
 touch at the Sun Pier, Chatham, 
 and at Upnor Castle. The passage 
 to Sheerness occupies about 1 hr. ; 
 its pleasantness is greatly dependent 
 on the state of the tide, as the mud- 
 flats on each bank exposed at low 
 water are very uninviting ; and the 
 appearance of the Medway (at least 
 below Rochester) has been consi- 
 derably changed since in Spenser's 
 days she went forth to meet her 
 bridegroom the Thames ; though she 
 is still 
 
 'clad in a vesture of unknowen geare 
 And uncouth fashion ' 
 
 The name of the stream is cer- 
 tainly of British origin, though its 
 significance is uncertain. How far, 
 therefore, the Kentish river is en- 
 titled to claim cousinship with the 
 ancient Medoacus (major and minor) 
 must be left for the decision of future 
 antiquarians. Like the Thames, the 
 Medway had very anciently been 
 embanked or 4 walled/ for the pre- 
 servation of a deep channel and the 
 
 * See Gentleman's Magazine, Sept. i860, 
 for a very interesting account, entitled 'A 
 Visit to Sheppey.' 
 
ROUTE 13. SHEPPEY. 
 
 261 
 
 safety of the land on either side. 
 The duty of watching over these 
 embankments appears to have been 
 neglected for a considerable period ; 
 lands were taken in and drained on 
 either side of the river without 
 method ; and the result has been 
 that much of the estuary became 
 choked with mud, and narrowed 
 into a series of shallow tidal chan- 
 nels, creeks, ditches, and waterways 
 of indescribable kinds, intersecting 
 a wilderness of islets, above 200 of 
 which are marked on the Admiralty 
 charts. 1 The isolation of the land 
 upon these islands renders it all but 
 valueless. The difficulty of getting 
 cattle upon such ground is consi- 
 derable ; and a high water will 
 capriciously come every now and 
 then, which stops its rising only 
 when the foot of the surrounding 
 hills is reached. Even the ordinary 
 spring-tides rise high enough to wet 
 the grass, and flavour with salt the 
 coarse weeds which thrive there. 
 Such is the desolation of the islets 
 that they are mowed by people who 
 come down from the towns in boats ; 
 men who are not tenants or owners 
 of the lands, yet openly carry away 
 their produce/ — Household Words, vol. 
 xiv. Sea-walls and embankments 
 are now in progress, and the river 
 has been dredged to allow the pass- 
 age of ships. 
 
 Leaving the steamboat pier, we 
 have the ch. of Frindsbury, N., 
 pass Chatham and its Dock- 
 yard (Rte. 3) on the S. and E., and 
 soon are off Upnor Castle, now 
 merely a store-house and police bar- 
 rack, but dating from 1561, when it 
 was erected as a blockhouse for the 
 defence of the port. It was here 
 that the battles took place with the 
 Dutch (June 12, 13, 1667), when 
 several English ships were de- 
 stroyed (Rte. 3). 1 m. lower, but 
 on the opposite side of the river, is 
 Gillingham Fort, built by Charles 
 I., but of no strength at the present 
 day. Between the two is St. 
 Mary's Island, where, as well as 
 
 at Pinhope Point, lower down the 
 river, on the W. shore, strong for- 
 tifications are in progress. Next 
 may be discovered, but at some 
 distance from the main stream, 
 Otterham Creek, adjoining the 
 Upchurch marshes, so well known 
 to the seekers of Roman pottery 
 (Rte. 3). On the L hand the chan- 
 nel, just before we reach the Isle of 
 Grain, formerly communicated with 
 the Thames, and formed a part of the 
 waterway to London, passing from the 
 Swale to the Medway, and from the 
 Medway between the Isle of Grain 
 and the mainland to the Thames. 
 The river now widens very con- 
 siderably ; first, Sandgate Creek, 
 the quarantine station, and next 
 the West Swale, leading to Queen- 
 borough, are passed, and we arrive 
 at Sheerness, where a pier of 
 1 the wearisome and needful length ' 
 of 3000 feet enables us to land in 
 Blue Town, close to the rly. stat. 
 and the dockyard. On the opposite 
 side is Port Victoria (Rte. 6). 
 
 SHEPPEY (Sceapige— the island 
 of sheep — 'Vervecum patria,' says 
 Baxter — a Saxon translation of its 
 earlier name Malata, from the Bri- 
 tish molht, a sheep, which, by a 
 curious chance has come back to 
 us in the Gallicised 4 mutton ') is 
 about 30 m. in circumf., 11 long, and 
 4 broad. (Pop. of entire island, about 
 19,000.) The S. part is low, and is 
 only preserved from inundation by 
 strong sea-walls ; the ground rises 
 toward the centre, but the cliffs on 
 the N. side, which are from 80 to 100 
 ft. high, decay very rapidly, ' fifty 
 acres near Warden Point having 
 been lost within the last twenty 
 years/ says Sir C. Lyell, writing in 
 1834. Much more has been lost 
 since (post), but we are not inclined 
 to endorse another statement of the 
 same eminent authority : 4 The ch. 
 at Minster, now near the coast [it 
 is I m. off, and a sandbank extends 
 another \ m. seaward, forming a 
 barrier], is said to have been in the 
 middle of the island 50 years ago, 
 
262 
 
 BOUTE 13. — SHEPPEY. 
 
 and it has been conjectured that, at 
 the present rate of destruction, the 
 whole isle will be annihilated in 
 about half a century/ The island 
 is entirely composed of the London 
 clay, which here abounds with fossils 
 of a very interesting character. In 
 walking along the beach E. of Sheer- 
 ness the visitor will find 1 whole 
 bushels of pyritized pieces of twigs 
 and fruits, belonging to plants nearly 
 allied to the screw-pine and the 
 custard-apple, and to various spe- 
 cies of palms and spice-trees which 
 now flourish in the Eastern Archi- 
 pelago. At the same time when 
 they were washed down from some 
 neighbouring land, not only croco- 
 dilian reptiles, but sharks and in- 
 numerable turtles, inhabited a sea 
 or estuary which now forms part of 
 the London district, and huge boa- 
 constrictors glided among the trees 
 which fringed the adjoining shores.' 
 (Owen.) 4 We are, in fact, among the 
 ruins of ancient spice islands, which 
 once " cheered old ocean with their 
 grateful smell," though in the days 
 of their blooming there were no 
 voyagers to u slack their course " for 
 the sake of the sea-wafted odours, 
 now exchanged for something more 
 resembling the " fishy fume" that 
 drove away Asmodeus. The fossils 
 to be collected here are, "stems and 
 branches of trees, and fragments of 
 wood, perforated by taredines ; spe- 
 cimens of the fruits of palms, re- 
 sembling the recent nipas of the 
 Moluccas (the nipae are low, shrub- 
 like plants, having the general aspect 
 of palms, and growing in marshy 
 tracts at the mouths of great rivers ; 
 the fruit here found is known as 
 "petrified figs"), of plants allied to 
 the cucumber, bean, cypress, labur- 
 num, &c. ; claws and fragments of 
 the shields of crabs ; portions of the 
 carapaces of turtles, teeth of sharks 
 and of rays, several species of the 
 usual shells of the London clay, and 
 an occasional specimen of nautilus/ 
 — Mantett. Specimens of most of 
 these fossils may generally be pro- 
 cured from dealers at Sheerness ; 
 
 and the collector should also make 
 inquiries at houses on the coast : 
 at Scrapsgate, where the cliffs begin 
 to rise from the western end of the 
 island ; at Hensbrook, a picturesque 
 gap in the cliffs, between Minster 
 and Warden ; and at Mud Row, War- 
 den Point, where the cottagers, most 
 of whom work on the beach, have 
 frequently good specimens for sale. 
 The geologist who wishes to collect 
 for himself must examine the dark 
 patches of pyrites lying under the 
 cliffs upon the shingle ; and 1 to 
 ensure success, he must be content 
 to go upon his knees and carefully 
 search among the fragments. I have 
 by this means obtained, in the course 
 of a morning, upwards of a ioo fine 
 fruits of various sizes/ — J. S. Bower- 
 bank. Care must be taken to ascer- 
 tain that the tide is falling before 
 starting on such an expedition, for 
 the strip of beach under the cliffs is 
 usually very narrow, and cumbered 
 with debris from above, whilst, from 
 the crumbling nature of the soil, 
 ascent is a matter of real difficulty, 
 except at one or two points. ' The 
 collector should be provided with 
 some sheets of soft paper, to wrap 
 fragile specimens in ; and a few 
 cotton or linen bags, of about 4 or 5 
 in. in diameter, to separate the large 
 from the small fossils ; the whole to 
 be carried in a good-sized blue bag 
 or haversack : a chisel and light 
 hammer are the only instruments 
 required/ — J. S. B. i The vegetable 
 remains are strongly impregnated 
 with iron pyrites ; and as this mine- 
 ral speedily undergoes decomposi- 
 tion when exposed to the atmosphere, 
 the choicest examples often fall to 
 pieces, even when preserved in a dry 
 cabinet. I have successfully em- 
 ployed mastic varnish ; first wiping 
 the specimens dry, and removing 
 any saline efflorescence, by means of 
 raw cotton, and then brushing in 
 the varnish with a stiff hair-pencil/ 
 — Mantell. Of late years bones of 
 some remarkable birds, whose bills 
 appear to have been provided with 
 teeth, have been discovered. 
 
ROUTE 1 3. — SITTINGBOURNE SHEERNESS. 
 
 263 
 
 Pyrites, or copperas stones, used 
 for dyeing, and clay nodules (sept- 
 aria^, serving for the manufacture 
 of Roman cement, are here largely 
 distributed throughout the clay. 
 There are copperas works within a 
 short distance of Sheerness, and the 
 stones themselves are collected in 
 heaps along the beach, whence they 
 are carried in shiploads. They were 
 first turned to account in 1579, ac- 
 cording to Lambarde, when Matthias 
 Falconer, a Brabanter, established 
 a factory for making copperas at 
 Queenborough. Farming and fishing 
 (especially oyster fishing), however, 
 are the chief occupations, and both 
 are conducted on a large scale. The 
 N. part of the island about Minster 
 and Eastchurch is well wooded, and 
 much of the land is occupied as 
 market gardens, which are cultivated 
 with extreme care ; indeed, even the 
 land side of the fallen heaps on the 
 beach is not allowed to lie idle, but 
 is made to produce large crops of 
 potatoes. 
 
 The S. part of the island is mainly 
 marsh pasture of a very rich de- 
 scription, always amply stored with 
 flocks and herds. In it (especially 
 in the parish of Eastchurch) are very 
 many small mounds, called Cotterels, 
 which are traditionally said to be 
 the burial-places of some of the 
 Norsemen, who so frequently occu- 
 pied Sheppey in the 9th and 10th 
 cents. 4 They present somewhat the 
 appearance of the oblong barrows 
 of the West of England, but are 
 more irregular in shape, and often 
 of greater magnitude, their height 
 being usually about 10 ft/ — C. R. 
 Smith in Gent. Mag., Nov. 1862. One 
 close to the stream that divides East- 
 church and Harty is of much larger 
 dimensions. i Our impression is, that 
 these mounds were formed when the 
 trenches were cut in the marshes, 
 with the earth (a tenacious clay) 
 excavated ; probably that the pasture 
 might be kept level, and that at the 
 same time the sheep might resort to 
 them in case of high and sudden 
 floods. But if we are not completely 
 
 satisfied with this explanation, we 
 are fully convinced they are not the 
 burial-places either of Danes or any 
 other people.' — lb. 
 
 (b) By Railway — Sittingbourne to 
 Sheerness. 
 The line from Sittingbourne, 
 which is joined by the line 
 direct from Chatham at the 
 Sittingbourne Middle Junction, 
 passes between the church of Mil- 
 ton, and mound of Tong Castle 
 on the E., and Iwade on the W. 
 (Rte. 3), and at 3} m. crosses the 
 Swale, which separates Sheppey 
 from the mainland, on an iron 
 girder-bridge, resting on brick piers, 
 in 7 fathom water. It is near the 
 site of the ancient King's Feiry ^ which 
 it has superseded), and is so arranged 
 as to afford a road for pedestrians 
 and carriages, whilst in the centre 
 is a drawbridge, to allow vessels to 
 pass through. The Swale seems 
 anciently to have been the regular 
 ship-passage into the Thames ; and 
 the 'dragons' of the Northmen were 
 many times laid up here, whilst their 
 crews wintered on the island. Up 
 to the 14th cent, the Swale was the 
 main waterway to London. Traffic 
 from the Continent came to Sand- 
 wich — through the Wantsume, or 
 strait between Thanet and Kent — 
 (mt into the ocean at Reculver — 
 into the Swale at Whitstable : from 
 the Swale by what are now the 
 Chitney Marshes, into the Medway : 
 and then between the Isle of Grain 
 and the mainland to the Thames. 
 Tong, Milton, Harty, Queenborough, 
 were then places of considerable im- 
 portance, as being on the main route 
 from the Continent to London. It is 
 still navigable for vessels of 200 tons ; 
 but its use is almost confined to the 
 small craft of the neighbourhood, 
 and it is the scene of a very active 
 and productive oyster fishery. In 
 the Swale, as we learn from a letter 
 of Gregory the Great to the patriarch 
 of Alexandria, but at what point is 
 uncertain, 10,000 Saxons were bap- 
 tized by Augustine on the Christmas- 
 
264 ROUTE 13.— QUEENBOROUGH — SHEERNESS. 
 
 day following the conversion of Ethel- 
 bert, a. d. 597. (Stanley, Hist. M. of 
 Canterbury.) The importance of this 
 coast during the Anglo-Saxon period 
 is proved by the legends connected 
 with Tong Castle (Rte. 3). The line 
 runs for a while over the marsh, 
 affording a good view up the Medway, 
 until we reach at 
 
 4im.QUEEIsrBOKOUGH, where 
 the station occupies a portion of the 
 site of a castle built by William of 
 Wykeham for Edward III., who, in 
 1366, changed the name of the town 
 from Kingborough to Queenborough 
 in honour of his Queen Philippa. It 
 was repaired by Henry IV., who 
 stayed here at times. It was again 
 repaired by Henry VIII. in 1536, 
 when blockhouses were built on other 
 parts of the coast ; but it had fallen 
 into decay in the time of the Com- 
 monwealth, when it was sold, and its 
 materials removed. The moat, in 
 part, remains, within which the out- 
 line of the keep is traceable, ' in plan 
 like a five-leaved rose, within five 
 smaller circular towers between the 
 leaves, which are large, and afford 
 platforms/ An outer wall encircled 
 the moat. As the most original 
 military work of Wykeham, even 
 these traces have interest. The 
 castle Well, on a mound beside the 
 station, is still in use, and is of con- 
 siderable importance, as the supply 
 of water is but scanty throughout 
 the island. 
 
 Queenborough. (Pop. 1062), 
 which owed its former importance 
 to the castle erected here by Edward 
 III., and its name to his Queen (Phi- 
 lippa), had gradually lost its trade, 
 and was rapidly passing to decay, 
 when its prosperity began to revive 
 with the erection of the Steamboat 
 Pier, and the establishment of a line 
 of steamers to Flushing, which has 
 been largely patronized. (The jour- 
 ney is made in 10 hrs.). Before the 
 Reform Bill, Queenborough returned 
 two members for a population of 780. 
 The Castle (Sheppey Castle) was 
 destroyed at the time of the Com- 
 
 monwealth ; part of the moat re- 
 mains, andthe well, now the property 
 of the rly. company. The Church, 
 is of ragstone late Dec. Previous 
 to its restoration in 1885 it was en- 
 cumbered with elaborate woodwork 
 (put in about 1720), which obscured 
 all its architectural features — the 
 greater part of this is now removed. 
 The quaint illuminations of nave 
 and chancel roofs remain. There 
 was once an important oyster fishery, 
 and the first manufactory of copperas 
 was established here. 
 
 From Queenborough the rly. runs 
 nearly parallel with the sea-wall, un- 
 til, crossing the moat and ramparts 
 under the command of some heavy 
 guns, it terminates, near the pier, at 
 
 7 m. Sheerness (Stat.)* 
 
 SHEERNE S S (Pop. 13,841) has 
 grown into a considerable town, 
 with four main divisions, known 
 as Blue Town (within the limits of 
 the garrison), Mile Town (beyond 
 the fortifications to the N.E.), Banks 
 Town and Marine Town ; these last, 
 the newest quarters, stretch along 
 the N. shore opposite the oyster- 
 beds, which supply more * real na- 
 tives ' than those of Milton, and 
 here are the best houses and hotels. 
 That part of the town which faces 
 the open sea is known as ' Sheerness- 
 on-Sea/ Here is the terminus sta- 
 tion. A want of water, from which 
 the whole island formerly suffered, 
 has been so far remedied that there 
 are now four good wells from which 
 the town is supplied. These are of 
 great depth ; and, in sinking them, 
 an extensive subterranean forest was 
 discovered, through which the work- 
 men had to burn their way. 
 
 The Docks and Garrison of 
 
 Sheerness occupy the N.W. point of 
 the island, a position of extreme im- 
 portance, since it commands the en- 
 trances of both the Thames and the 
 Medway. The earliest work for 
 defence here was Edward III.'s 
 Castle of Queenborough. This was 
 demolished as useless during the 
 
ROUTE 13. SHEERNESS — MINSTER. 
 
 2G5 
 
 Commonwealth, and nothing con- 
 structed in its place, a neglect which 
 a few years later exposed England 
 to a severe humiliation. Some time 
 after the Restoration a small fort, 
 mounting 12 guns, was constructed 
 at the point of Sheerness, and this 
 was in progress of improvement 
 when the Dutch made their attack 
 on the fleet in the Med way in 1667. 
 The Dutch cannon reduced the fort 
 after an hour and a half's firing, 
 and their troops occupied Sheerness 
 until De Ruyter withdrew from the 
 coast (Rte. 3). The fort, after this 
 warning, was increased to a regular 
 fortification. Fresh works have 
 been added from time to time, 
 and very formidable additions were 
 made to them under the advice 
 of the National Defence Commis- 
 sion 1 859- 1 868. The Dockyard was 
 at first intended for the repair of 
 vessels and the building of smaller 
 ships of war. It has, however, been 
 much extended and improved. It 
 now covers 60 acres, and is suffi- 
 ciently capacious to receive the iron- 
 clads of the present day. The dock- 
 yard employs some 2000 men ; the 
 barracks can accommodate 2000 
 soldiers ; and the forts mount more 
 than 100 guns. 
 
 [If the tourist is minded to visit 
 the Isle of Grain, he can best ac- 
 complish it by boat from Sheerness, 
 from which it is distant about i| m. ; 
 but the passage is not always to be 
 accompli shedwithout some difficulty, 
 owing to the strength of the current, 
 and the charge varies from is. 6d. to 
 ios., according to the state of the 
 weather. The isle is a rich grazing 
 district, which is connected by rail- 
 way from Port Victoria to Gravesend 
 (Rte. 6), and a steam ferry to Sheer- 
 ness, mainly for military purposes : 
 at present, beyond a huge martello 
 tower, which is insulated on a sand- 
 bank, a fort for 20 heavy guns on a 
 rising ground, and a strong Battery 
 on the beach between the pilot- 
 marks, forming part of the defence 
 of Thames and Medway, there is 
 
 little to be seen. The few houses 
 are scattered about singly, and the 
 Church (dedicated to St. James, and 
 once a possession of the nuns of 
 Minster) stands apart from any of 
 them. It is very small, and poor- 
 looking, and in consequence of its 
 exposed position it has the unusual 
 appendage of shutters to the win- 
 dows. There are a few monuments 
 of no interest ; and one brass (15th 
 cent.) in the chancel.] 
 
 E. of Miletown is seen a quaint- 
 looking red-brick building, which 
 is Cheyney Rock House ; it is the 
 headquarters of the Sheppey oyster- 
 fishery, and from it the late owner 
 (D. T. Alston) is said to have sent 
 to London 50,000 bushels of 'natives' 
 in a single season. Notice close by 
 a R. C. ch. of coloured brick, and in 
 a very florid style of architecture. 
 Cheyney Rock House stands in a 
 commanding position, and its site 
 will be occupied by a casemated 
 battery when the projected fortifica- 
 tions are carried out ; they include 
 a deep fosse from this point to the 
 Swale, so as to insulate Sheerness. 
 
 At Scrapsgate, 1 m. E., the cliffs 
 begin. Being of the London clay, 
 they are of a dull colour, but they 
 glitter in the sun from the included 
 crystals of selenite, and they furnish 
 an abundance of fossils, but, as before 
 observed, caution with respect to the 
 state of the tide is necessary in pur- 
 suing the search. 
 
 The walk (3 m.) from Sheerness 
 to Minster (properly Minster-in- 
 Sheppey to distinguish it from Min- 
 ster in the Isle of Thanet) is to be 
 recommended for the sake of the 
 view from the cliffs, which is very 
 fine. In front is the Thames with 
 its myriad vessels. Sheerness spreads 
 out below, and landward extends a 
 wide sweep of rich corn and pasture 
 land, through which winds the Med- 
 way. The scene is perhaps as strik- 
 ing, from the variety of objects it 
 comprises, as any in Kent, and is 
 not likely to be forgotten. 
 
266 
 
 ROUTE 13. — MINSTER — EASTCHURCH. 
 
 Minster was the site of a nunnery 
 founded about 673 by Sexburga, 
 widow of Er comber t King of Kent. 
 77 nuns were placed in it ; but the 
 house was laid desolate during the 
 Danish ravages, and was not effec- 
 tually restored until Abp. Corboil, 
 in 1 130, placed a colony of Benedic- 
 tine nuns here, under the patronage 
 of St. Sexburga. At the Dissolution 
 it was granted to Sir Thomas 
 Cheyney. 
 
 Of the conventual buildings, only 
 the gatehouse, of late character, re- 
 mains ; it has suffered much in its 
 adaptation as a modern dwelling. 
 The existing Church., which stands 
 on a wooded hill, and is a conspicuous 
 object for miles around (Rte. 3), is 
 dedicated to SS. Mary and Sexburga. 
 It has some Norm, portions, but 
 apparently was not the church of 
 the nunnery, since Henry Lord 
 Cheyney, temp. Elizabeth, obtained 
 leave to remove the coffins of his 
 ancestors from the chapel of the 
 convent, the materials of which had 
 been sold to Sir Humphrey Gilbert. 
 The tomb of his father, Sir Thomas 
 Cheyney, may now be seen in the 
 S. chancel of Minster Church, where 
 it was re-erected. In 1833 the effigy 
 of a knight (15th cent.) was exhumed 
 in the churchyard at a depth of 5 ft., 
 and is now placed within the ch. It 
 is of Weald marble. In the S. wall 
 of the main chancel is the remark- 
 able tomb of Sir Robert de Shur- 
 land, Warden of the Cinque Ports, 
 temp. Edw. I. He is armed, and 
 cross-legged ; and at the back of the 
 tomb is seen the head of a horse, 
 apparently swimming. Sir Robt. 
 was lord of the manor of Shurland 
 (post) ; and (10th Edw. I.) obtained, 
 among other liberties, a grant of 
 ' wreck of the sea' for his manor. 
 This privilege enabled him to claim 
 everything he could touch with the 
 point of his lance, after riding into 
 the sea at low water as far as pos- 
 sible. The horse's head has been 
 thus explained, though by no means 
 satisfactorily ; and the tomb has also 
 given rise to a curious local legend, 
 
 versified by Barham in the Ingoldsbij 
 Legends. Sir Robert, it is said, killed 
 a priest who declined to bury a corpse 
 without payment. He then retired 
 to his stronghold in Eastchurch, and 
 remained there until the king passed 
 by the island, when the knight swam 
 off on horseback and obtained his 
 pardon on condition of returning to 
 land in the same way. He accom- 
 plished this in safety, but being told 
 by a witch that the horse which had 
 that day saved his life would yet 
 cause his death, he killed it at once 
 to defeat the prophecy. Some time 
 after, in walking on the beach, he 
 kicked against what he took to be a 
 stone, but it was the skull of his 
 ill-requited steed ; he had broken it 
 by the blow, a piece of the bone 
 pierced his foot, and he died, only 
 living time enough to direct that his 
 horse should share his monument. 
 In the chancel are the fine Brasses 
 of Sir John de Northwode and his 
 wife (Joan de Badlesmere) circ. 1320. 
 Notice that the knight's effigy 'has 
 undergone a peculiar procrustean 
 process, several inches have been 
 removed from the centre of the figure 
 to make it equal in length to that of 
 his wife. The legs have been re- 
 stored and crossed at the ankles, an 
 attitude apparently not contem- 
 plated by the original designer. From 
 the style of engraving these altera- 
 tions seem to have been made at the 
 close of the 15th -cent.' — Haines, 
 Mon. Brasses. Notice also the tomb of 
 Jordanus de Scapeia (?) figure of a 
 knight, in Purbeck marble, holding 
 the symbol of a soul in prayer. The 
 Church was thoroughly restored in 
 1 88 1. From the top of the tower we 
 may survey all that remains of the 
 Abbey. Beside the gateway traces 
 of the abbey buildings, the court- 
 yard, the Pleasaunce or Gardens, 
 and the boundary walls may still be 
 here and there distinguished, but 
 much must be left to the imagina- 
 tion. 
 
 At Eastchurch (Pop. 854), 2 m. 
 E. of Minster, is a fine Perp. 
 
ROUTE 13. — EASTCHURCH ELMLEY. 
 
 267 
 
 Church, built c. 1450, by the 
 abbey of Boxley, near Maid- 
 stone. The church was granted 
 soon after the Conquest to the great 
 Cistercian convent of the Dunes, on 
 the coast of Flanders, but was after- 
 wards transferred by them to Boxley, 
 on condition of that house enter- 
 taining any of their members who 
 came to England. The present edi- 
 fice, which is large and in good 
 order, contains the tomb, with full- 
 length effigies, of Gabriel Livesey, 
 lay rector (d. 1622), and his wife. 
 Their son Michael, who was created 
 a baronet in 1627, was one of the 
 regicides. He fled from justice at 
 the Restoration, and died in exile, 
 his great estates in Sheppey being 
 forfeited. A short distance E. of 
 the ch. is Shwiand (now a farm- 
 house.) It occupies the site of the 
 stronghold of Sir Robert, the hero of 
 the Minster story mentioned on the 
 previous page. Robert's daughter 
 Margaret married (c. 1320) William 
 Cheyney, and their descendant, Sir 
 Thomas Cheyney, Warden of the 
 Cinque Ports, built the present edi- 
 fice, c. 1550, partly, it is said, with 
 material from the ancient castle of 
 Chilham (Rte. 7). The front is of 
 hewn stone, with octagonal gate- 
 towers ; the N.W. part of the quad- 
 rangle also remains, and shows that 
 it was once a stately edifice, which 
 is still well worth inspection ; as is 
 also the old Vicarage House, once the 
 mansion of the Liveseys, which 
 stands amid noble trees a short dis- 
 tance S. A fine oak screen stretches 
 across the ch. 
 
 Between Eastchurch and Warden 
 is Rayham, a great model farm be- 
 longing to Lord Harris. 
 
 Warden, at the E. end of Shep- 
 pey, is a very small village (Pop. 30). 
 About 40 years ago the ch. was 
 almost rebuilt with the stone of old 
 London bridge, by Delamark Banks, 
 Esq. (son of Sir E. Banks, the en- 
 gineer, from whom Banks' Town, 
 Sheerness, is named), then a con- 
 siderable landowner in Sheppey. 
 [Kent.~] 
 
 The continued encroachment of the 
 sea necessitated the closing of the 
 ch. in 1870, and its demolition in 
 1877. The parish is now united to 
 Minster. 
 
 2 m. S. is Leysdown, a pleasant 
 spot, with many fruit-farms. The 
 ch. is a new one, which replaced a 
 poor-looking edifice very near the 
 sea. A few of the old stones are 
 built into the new ch. S.E. Keeping 
 along the sea-wall, we reach, in 
 2 \ m., Shellness, the point of Sheppey 
 overlooking Whitstable Bay. On 
 this low sandy point James II. was 
 seized in his endeavour to escape to 
 France in 1688. A rather lofty 
 mound near its extremity is proba- 
 bly monumental, but history is 
 silent respecting it. 
 
 Capel Fleet, now drained, formerly 
 divided the isle of Harty ( Pop. 160 ) 
 from Sheppey, and Crog Dick separ- 
 ates it from Elmley, but there was a 
 bridge over the former, and there is 
 a ferry to Oare for Faversham (Rte. 
 3). The Church once belonged to the 
 abbey of Faversham. In it is pre- 
 served a curious oak chest, on which 
 is represented the last case of trial 
 by battle. For a description see 
 Archwologia Cantiana, x. A ch. existed 
 here as early as 796. 
 
 Elmley, W. of Harty (Pop. 205) 
 which is almost entirely marshland, 
 has a Portland cement factory. The 
 ch. (which had fallen into ruin) 
 was rebuilt in good taste by the pa- 
 trons (All Souls' College, Oxford) ; 
 its taper bell-turret is a conspicuous 
 object as we cross the rly. bridge 
 from Sittingbourne. Elmley is a 
 favourite resort for wild-fowl shoot- 
 ing and coursing. Here James II. 
 betook himself when he fled from 
 London in Dec. 1688 ; hence he went 
 on to Faversham, where he was 
 identified and captured. There is a 
 ferry hence to the Sittingbourne 
 road, which Lord Macaulay oddly 
 mentions as 1 Emley ferry, near the 
 island of Sheerness/ — {Hist. Eng. ii. 
 569, ed. 1849.) 
 
 u 
 
268 
 
 ROUTE 14. — MARGATE TO BYE. 
 
 Considerable plantations have 
 been formed both in Elmley and in 
 Harty, but timber does not appear 
 to flourish now in these marshlands, 
 though that it formerly did so is 
 proved by the enormous size of the 
 trunk of an aged oak still existing 
 in Harty. 
 
 ROUTE 14. 
 
 COAST OF KENT. MARGATE TO 
 
 RYE [rOMNEY MARSH, DUNGE- 
 NESS]. 
 
 All the coast towns of Kent have 
 long had communication with Lon- 
 don by rly., but until the opening of 
 the Deal and Dover railway, they had 
 no direct communication between 
 one another. The opening of this 
 line (i88i\ however, puts Margate, 
 Ramsgate, and Deal, into communi- 
 cation with Dover, Folkestone, Shorn- 
 cliff e, and Hythe. 
 
 From Margate to Eamsgate there 
 is the choice of two railways : the 
 S. E. (the shortest^ which keeps 
 near the road, and the L. C. & D., 
 which curves round by Broadstairs ; 
 but the walk by the cliffs is to be 
 preferred to either (see Rte. 7). 
 There is a rly. from Eamsgate to 
 peal (Rte. 4\ but the traveller may 
 incline to take the road, which runs 
 by the shore of Pegwell Bay, passing 
 the monument erected to com- 
 memorate the landing of St. Augus- 
 tine, whence the view to Deal Point 
 is very fine. At 1 m. short of Sand- 
 wich he may notice a grove of trees 
 on 1. which covers the foundations 
 of the ruined eh. of Stonar, ex- 
 plored by Mr. Reader, of Sandwich ; 
 or he may be ferried over the Stour 
 at Stonar Cut (a neat inn, the Red 
 Lion, provides boats for this, as also 
 for the ferry to Richborough, Rte. 4), 
 and walk over the sand-hills to the 
 coast, among which Roman coins 
 ha.ve often been found, though we 
 
 fear that he will look in vain for any 
 traces of Caesar's naval camp, which 
 has been placed in this locality. To 
 the W. rises the (restored) Norman 
 tower of St. Clement, Sandwich, and 
 beyond it the hill of Richborough ; 
 if it should be low water the Good- 
 win Sands show like islands, E. ; 
 and before we reach Deal we pass' 
 two coastguard stations, one of which 
 has two great guns, and is sur- 
 rounded by a loop-holed wall ; and 
 the other has close to it an unfinished 
 ' battery' of the Boulogne flotilla 
 date (c. 1804^, so overgrown with 
 wild flowers as to make amends for 
 the rough walk. 
 
 For Deal and Walmer see Rte. 4. 
 From the latter place a road along 
 the beach, 1 m., leads to 
 
 Kingsdown (Pop. 520^ a decayed 
 f member' of the Cinque Port of 
 Dover, picturesquely situated under 
 the cliffs, which recommence here. 
 St. John's Chapel, above it, was 
 completed in 1850. Its erection and 
 endowment are entirely due to the 
 late William Curling, Esq., whose 
 residence was opposite. Some indis- 
 tinct traces of an intrenchment in 
 the valley here are said by Darrell 
 to have been formerly called 1 Roman 
 Codde,' which he is pleased to in- 
 terpret 1 Romanorum fortitudo.' It is 
 possible that Mr. Borrows Romany e 
 friends may have known more of 
 the matter. Small pieces of amber 
 are occasionally found on the beach 
 here, and on that of the Isle of 
 Thanet, after a gale. 
 
 The scene from Deal and Walmer 
 beach — and yet more so where the 
 cliffs recommence at Kingsdown — is 
 always grand and impressive. The 
 Downs, 'the safest and most com- 
 modious roadstead in the world,' 
 lie in front, generally crowded with 
 merchantmen, and not often without 
 some specimen of those * brave 
 navies ' 
 
 ' From floating cannon's thundering throates 
 that all the world defye.' 
 
 Beyond is seen the fringe of break- 
 ers along the perilous Goodwins ; 
 
ROUTE 14. — KINGSDOWN THE GOODWINS. 
 
 269 
 
 and at night the Calais light and j 
 the revolving light at Grisnez are 
 visible, as are those of the North 
 and South Forelands. N. are the 
 cliffs of Thanet, and Pegwell Bay 1 
 with its memories of Augustine and ' 
 the Saxons ; and opposite stretches 
 away the French coast, from the 
 ' Noirmottes ' above Calais to the 
 heights beyond Boulogne — the old 
 country of the Morini— with its 
 chalk cliffs of Blancnez and Grisnez ; 
 the sight of which brings crowding 
 back on the mind all the eventful 
 story from the day when the oars of 
 the Roman galleys first flashed in 
 the sunshine across the narrow 
 strait, to that (August, 1850) on 
 which the cable of the electric tele- 
 graph attached the ' fines terrarum ' 
 of the Britons to the great world 
 opposite. The coast of the Pas de 
 Calais has undergone at least as 
 much change as that of Kent ; but 
 the Portus Iccius, from which 
 Caesar sailed, certainly lay within 
 sight opposite, and probably 
 stretched up under the Noirmottes 
 as far as St. Omer. Standing on 
 the beach at Walmer, it is not a 
 little interesting to have at once 
 before us the points both of de- 
 parture and of arrival ; for there is 
 the all but universal consent of 
 antiquaries, from the earliest in- 
 quirers to the Emperor Napoleon 
 III., that it was on this low coast, 
 between Kingsdown and Thanet, 
 that Caesar's first landing was made 
 — the first great landmark in the 
 history of Britain, which was thus 
 brought within the pale of the 
 Roman world. It is true that Sir 
 G. B. Airy (Aixhceologia, xxxiv. ) has 
 brought forward some arguments 
 for fixing the landing at Pevensey ; 
 and that the shore near Folkestone, 
 and the coast of Romney Marsh, 
 have also been suggested— the latter 
 in a very interesting volume by Mr. 
 Lewin ; but these theories may fairly 
 be considered as refuted by a paper 
 in Arch. Cant., vol. iii., by the late 
 Rev. E. Card well, Prof, of Ancient 
 Hist, at Oxford, who supports the 
 
 claims of Deal, which, although the 
 coast has much altered, must always 
 have been ' in piano et aperto lit- 
 tore.' 
 
 The Downs, between the break" 
 water of the Goodwins and the shore 
 — the largest natural harbour of re - 
 fuge existing — are 8 m. in length and 
 6 wide, containing about 20 m. of 
 good anchorage. No doubt they are 
 ' a down bed to repose in,' as Defoe 
 suggests ; but the name is derived 
 from the dimes or sand-heaps of the 
 Goodwins and the shore. They are 
 well protected from E., W., and N., 
 but are unsafe under a high S. wind ; 
 and a 1 Deal gale,' such as howled 
 along the Rutupine shores in Lucan's 
 I time, generally sends ashore many 
 I of the lesser craft. The Downs vary 
 in depth from 4 to 12 fathoms. In 
 many parts are overfalls and sands — 
 as the Brake, the Quern, &c. — dry 
 wholly or partially at low water. 
 
 The famous Goodwins— 1 a very 
 dangerous flat and fatal, where the 
 carcases of many a tall ship lie 
 buried ' (Merch. of Venice) — extend- 
 ing about 9 m. between the two Fore- 
 lands, run nearly parallel with the 
 coast. They consist of two parts, 
 divided in the middle by four narrow 
 channels, about 2 fathoms deep ; 
 one of which, called 1 the Swash,' is 
 navigable in fine weather. E. of the 
 N. Goodwin is a bank of chalk — a 
 more substantial fragment of Earl 
 Godwin's, Lomea than the sands 
 themselves : — 
 
 ' Where oft by mariners are shown 
 
 (Unless the men of Kent are liars) 
 Earl Godwin's castles overflown, 
 And palace roofs, and steeple spires.' 
 
 Whatever may have been their ori- 
 gin, they are probably older than 
 either Earl Godwin or Tenterden 
 steeple (see note in Rte. 11). There 
 is no early notice of any island in 
 this place, though it is not impossi- 
 ble that more than one change may 
 have taken place here during the 
 many inundations which have swept 
 over this and the opposite French 
 
 u 2 
 
270 
 
 EOUTE 14. — THE GOODWINS — WALMER. 
 
 and Flemish coasts. Sir C. Lyell sug- 
 gested that the last remains of an 
 island, consisting, like Sheppey, of 
 clay, may have been carried away by 
 the great flood of 1099, recorded by 
 the Saxon Chronicle. {Principles of 
 Geology, i. 409.) The sands are com- 
 pletely covered at high water. At 
 low they may be walked upon with 
 safety (cricket-matches have been 
 ventured on them\ except in certain 
 ominous, lake-like places, the es- 
 pecial property of the water-nixies. 
 
 Seamen assert that if a ship of the 
 largest size were to strike on the 
 Goodwins she would be completely 
 swallowed up by the quicksands ^n 
 a few days. The bank consists in 
 reality of 15 ft. of sand, resting on 
 blue clay — a fact which seems to 
 prove that it is a remnant of land, 
 and not a mere accumulation of sea- 
 sand. — Lyell. Many plans have been 
 proposed for making the sands the 
 basis of a harbour of refuge, the 
 Downs being unsafe in some winds, 
 but the result of what has been 
 undertaken with the more limited 
 view of guiding mariners is not 
 encouraging ; a lighthouse, and two 
 beacons successively erected, having 
 been carried away by the fury of 
 the waves. Two lightships now 
 mark the N. and S. heads of the 
 sands, and another is fixed in the 
 Gull stream — the main passage into 
 the North Sea. 
 
 The most memorable case of ship- 
 wreck on the Goodwins took place 
 during the great storm of Nov. 
 1703, which lasted 14 days ; during 
 its greatest violence ;the night of 
 the 26th) 13 men-of-war were lost 
 on the sands, and nearly the whole 
 of their crews perished. Many East 
 Indiamen have been wrecked on 
 them ; but the number of vessels lost 
 or damaged here bears no proportion 
 to those which pass in safety ; and 
 'the improvements in navigation, 
 the use of chain-cables, and the 
 application of steam-power, have 
 rendered these sands much less 
 formidable than formerly.' Rockets 
 thrown up from the lightships at 
 
 the sands are the signals that some 
 vessel has struck on them ; and such 
 calls for help are instantly responded 
 to by the boatmen of the coast, who, 
 loungers on ordinary occasions, start 
 into activity at the approach of a 
 storm. The number of lives an- 
 nually saved by these boats, ' admir- 
 ably handled by their hardy crews/ 
 is very great ; and there are few 
 among them who might not appro- 
 priate the epitaph of George Philpott 
 in Deal Church : — 
 
 1 Full many lives he saved with his un- 
 daunted crew, 
 He put his trust in Providence, and cared 
 not how it blew.' 
 
 All along the coast these boatmen 
 are known by the name of hovellers ; 
 no doubt a corruption of hobelers, 
 the ancient name of the light-armed 
 English cavalry, from the hobby or 
 small horse ridden by them. Thus 
 the light boats of the Deal seamen 
 were their hobbies. In fine weather 
 the hovellers remain, perforce, idle 
 and inactive ; but they are roused 
 to almost incredible exertion by 
 the occurrence of what the old 
 Cornishmen used to call a 'provi- 
 dential ' wreck. (The names of 
 'Deal crabs,' 'Ramsgate skinflints/ 
 ' Dover sharks,' and ' Sandwich car- 
 rots/ formerly exchanged between 
 the inhabitants of the towns on the 
 east coast of Kent, have nearly dis- 
 appeared ; but the Dover epithet 
 remains appropriate, as Continental 
 travellers too well know). 
 
 The next station beyond Deal is 
 (i| m.) Walmer. The station is 
 on the high ground above the village, 
 some distance from the sea. The old 
 church, now disused, is near the 
 station. The chancel arch and S. 
 door are Norman, and richly deco- 
 rated. There is no memorial of ' the 
 Great Duke/ except the pew which 
 he used to occupy almost every Sun- 
 day during his residence at Walmer. 
 This is the large seat immediately in 
 front of the pulpit. The wonderful 
 square addition to the ch. was made 
 in 1826. The churchyard is inclosed 
 
ROUTE 14. — WALMER — GUSTON. 
 
 271 
 
 by a deep ancient fosse. Near it 
 are some relics of a mansion belong- 
 ing to the ancient family of Criol. 
 About half-way down Castle-street, 
 in the village, a house is pointed out 
 which was tenanted by the Duke 
 when Sir Arthur Wellesley : it is 
 known as 1 The Duke's House/ 
 
 The various intrenchments in the 
 neighbourhood f interesting in con- 
 nexion with Caesar's landing), 
 noticed by Hasted, are now difficult 
 of discovery, in consequence of in- 
 creased cultivation. < A deep single 
 fosse upon a rising ground' is men- 
 tioned near Walmer Church, and 
 there are said to be marks of in- 
 trenchment at Hawkshill close, near 
 the castle, to the S. There are others 
 N. of Ripple Church, and at Dane 
 Pits, on a farm called Winkland 
 Oaks. This last is readily found, 
 although much changed since it was 
 figured by Hasted. It is too small 
 for a fortification of any sort, and 
 was probably a 'bower' or ' Troy- 
 town,' in which games took place 
 on certain occasions. ^Rte. 7 ; Jula- 
 bers Grave, Chilham.) 
 
 From the high ground above 
 Walmer a fine view is obtained 
 northward,— Sandwich, with Rich- 
 borough beyond it; Thanet, and 
 Ramsgate stretching along its cliffs ; 
 the Downs on one side, and on the 
 other a wide sweep of undulating 
 chalk country, full of Saxon me- 
 morials. 
 
 Ripple Church (once belonging 
 to St. Augustine's), 1 m. W., to which 
 a footpath leads across the open 
 fields, was rebuilt in 1861. Not far 
 from the church on the N. side are 
 vestiges of what were apparently 
 Roman military works, on the route 
 from the sea to Barham downs. At 
 Sutton, 1 m. S.W. of Ripple, is a 
 small Norm, church of some in- 
 terest. It is dedicated to SS. Peter 
 and Paul, and has nave and chancel, 
 circular apse. The windows are 
 circular-headed, varying in size, with 
 zigzag ornaments rudely scratched 
 above them. The S. door has an 
 
 enriched tympanum. The N. door 
 (now closed) is immediately oppo- 
 site, as at Ripple and Northbourne. 
 The wall of the W. end is said to 
 have been injured by an earthquake, 
 April 6, 1680. It has been rebuilt, 
 but still shows the circular window. 
 All the rest of the ch. remains un- 
 altered. The manor belonged to 
 the family of Criol. 
 
 Soon after leaving Walmer stat. 
 we pass on the left the village of 
 Ringwould. The Ch., dedicated 
 to St. Nicholas, serves as a landmark, 
 and the tower has a very peculiar- 
 shaped turret. There are brasses 
 to T. Upton, 1530 ; W. Abere and 
 his two wives, 1500. It stands on 
 high ground, commanding fine views 
 of the Downs. The chancel is E. E., 
 but much alteration has taken place. 
 The raised ground S. of the ch. may 
 perhaps mark an intrenchment like 
 that at Walmer. 
 
 At Oxney, on the road from 
 Ringwould to Dover, are some frag- 
 ments of a desecrated chapel. Oxney 
 Court (W. J. Banks, Esq.) adjoins. 
 Some distance off the road, W., are 
 the two Langdons. The church of 
 East Langdon has a late Norman 
 turret for two bells. In the rectory 
 is preserved a pulpit cloth, which is 
 made from an ancient cope of crimson 
 velvet, embroidered with the words 
 < Jesu Maria,' and other figures. ' It 
 well deserves to be copied.' — Hussey. 
 At West Langdon was a Benedictine 
 abbey, founded 1192, by Will, de 
 Aubeville. Both this and the ch. 
 have disappeared, a few ivy-covered 
 walls of the latter alone remaining. 
 Here Leyton, Cromwell's commis- 
 sioner (Oct. i535\ after gaining 
 entrance with much difficulty, took 
 captive the abbot's ' tender damoi- 
 sel,' her apparel being found in the 
 abbot's coffer (see his graphic letter 
 in Froude's Hist, vol. i.) A ch. has 
 been built at West Langdon. 
 
 1 m. S.W. is Guston, where the 
 small plain Norm. ch. presents the 
 I original arrangement of the E. end, 
 
272 
 
 ROUTE 14. — ST. MARGARET AT CLIFFE. 
 
 two small windows below and a larger 
 one above in the gable. 
 
 3 m. further we reach the stat. 
 at Martin Mill (the old mill which 
 gives its name to the hamlet is 
 close at hand), whence a good road 
 leads us to St. Margaret at ClifFe, 
 and St. Margaret's Bay. St. Mar- 
 garet's Church is a fine specimen 
 of Norman work, well worth a visit. 
 The nave of four bays has circular 
 piers, except one, which is clustered. 
 The bases are best seen at the W. 
 end. Amuch enriched moulding sur- 
 rounds the arches. The capitals of 
 the piers have various Norman orna- 
 ments. At the angles, and at the 
 centre of each arch, are heads, and 
 there is a singular mask in the 
 centre of the moulding between the 
 nave arches and the clerestory. The 
 aisles do not extend beyond the 
 nave. The side-windows are small 
 and deeply splayed : in that at the 
 E. end of the S. aisle is a bracket for 
 a figure, probably above an altar. 
 The circular chancel arch is un- 
 usually lofty, reaching to the top 
 of the clerestory windows. The 
 chancel, of great length, has at the 
 E. end three windows below, and one 
 above. The rest of the chancel 
 windows are circular-headed. The 
 tower arch is pointed. The exterior 
 wall of the nave, rising above the 
 aisles, is surrounded by a rich ar- 
 cade, which is pierced at intervals 
 for the clerestory windows. There 
 is a low side window (circular- 
 headed) on S. side of chancel. The 
 exterior of the W. doorway is em- 
 blematical of the Holy Trinity, and 
 is a very curious piece of work. 
 The cabling in the porch is very 
 perfect, and in the panels above may 
 be noticed a fleur-de-lis, a Scotch 
 thistle, a Greek cross, and an Eng- 
 lish rose — a curious and unexplained 
 combination. In the vestry there 
 is a stone coffin-lid. The Curfew is 
 still rung here during the winter. 
 
 The manor has always belonged 
 to the archbishops of Canterbury, by 
 
 one of whom (Anselm ?) the ch. 
 must have been erected. 
 
 Beyond the church, which lifts 
 itself proudly above the little village, 
 a 'gate' opens to the sea. The 
 cliffs recede like an amphitheatre ; 
 and down their broken sides a road 
 winds to St. Margaret's Bay — a 
 picturesque sheltered inlet, where 
 houses are beginning to be built, 
 and where a watering-place may be 
 expected in time. The submarine 
 telegraph enters the sea here. 
 
 The guillemots which breed in the 
 cliffs here are said by Buffon to be 
 much sought after by the fishermen 
 of Picardy, — as baits for lobsters and 
 other fish, according to Pennant. 
 The finest flavoured lobsters in 
 England, 'small, and turning of a 
 remarkably deep red colour,' are 
 found in St. Margaret's Bay. Gastro- 
 nomy, 'which owes everything to 
 the Church,' is perhaps indebted for 
 their discovery to Abp. Morton, by 
 whom a small pier was constructed 
 below the cliffs, i for the defence of 
 the fishing craft.' 
 
 From St. Margaret's, the two Light- 
 houses on the S. Foreland may be 
 visited. They are \ m. apart, and 
 have the height of 275 ft. and 380 ft. 
 respectively. This is the nearest 
 point to the French coast, the i Pas ' 
 being somewhat shorter from here to 
 the cliff of Grisnez than from Dover 
 to Calais. The light at Dunkirk is 
 here visible, beside those of Calais 
 and Boulogne. The arrangements of 
 the S. Foreland lighthouses differ 
 from those of the N. Foreland (Rte. 7). 
 The magneto-electric light, was first 
 tried at the Upper Lighthouse here. 
 The view from the cliffs — always 
 magnificent — is sometimes rendered 
 more so than usual from the passing 
 of whole fleets of merchantmen— 200 
 or 300 in number — outward bound, 
 after having been detained by con- 
 trary winds in the Downs. The 
 lighthouses are about i\ m. from the 
 village. The visitor has the choice 
 
route 14 — st. Margaret's bay. 
 
 273 
 
 of road or footpath. They are open 
 up to sunset, daily. 
 
 The name of l the Lone Tree' given 
 to a solitary sycamore on the road 
 between St. Margaret's and Dover, 
 has reference to a comparatively 
 modern version of the legend of the 
 Glastonbury thorn. A soldier of 
 the Dover garrison is said to have 
 slain a comrade with a staff, and as 
 no one else was present, he struck 
 it into the ground, exultingly ex- 
 claiming that he should never be 
 brought to justice until that dry 
 stick took root. He served abroad 
 for many years unsuspected ; but 
 when again stationed at Dover, from 
 curiosity he visited the spot and 
 found to his horror, that his weapon 
 had taken root, and was a flourish- 
 ing tree. Conscience-stricken, he at 
 once avowed his crime, and suffered 
 accordingly. The tree is visible from 
 the ramparts at Dover, and the story 
 is a favourite one in the garrison. 
 
 Shortly after leaving Martin Mill 
 Stat, the line divides : one line 
 going to Kearsney Junction (Rte. 
 3\ the other joining the L.C.D. 
 line at Dover Priory — whence is 
 through communication with 
 Folkestone, &c. (Rte. a\ Here 
 we get a fine view of Dover, as 
 we wind round the W. outskirts 
 of the town. The valley on E. open- 
 ing out to the sea, called 'the 
 Knights' Bottom/ once the place for 
 the joustings of the garrison, is now 
 devoted to rifle practice, and on W. 
 rises the incomplete Fort George, or 
 Castle Hill Fort, the fosse of which 
 crosses the high road. Across the 
 valley are the Western Heights and 
 Citadel, and in the valley itself lies 
 Dover (Rte. 2). 
 
 The tourist who elects to walk over 
 the cliff, or by the beach, from Deal 
 to Dover, will notice that the beach 
 beyond Kingsdown is studded with 
 rifle-butts for the use of the troops 
 at Walmer, and the carriage road 
 runs close to the cliffs at some dis- 
 tance from the sea. As far as St 
 Margaret's Bay, an exceedingly pretty 
 spot (3 m.), there is no difficulty, 
 
 I but here the S. Foreland juts out, 
 and though it is possible to go round 
 it at low water (notice the fresh- 
 water springs which gush from the 
 shingle \ the feat is not to be recom- 
 mended. The white, flint-banded 
 cliffs, nearly 400 ft. high, and all 
 but perpendicular, afford no resting- 
 places, like ' Bessie's Apron ' ; and 
 whoever may find himself beneath 
 them in Sir Arthur Wardour's 
 position, caught by the rising tide, 
 will have but a slender chance of 
 escape. The loose shingle, more- 
 over, under the Foreland, affords 
 by no means a pleasant path, and 
 the road to Dover is lengthened. 
 It will be better to ascend from the 
 beach at St. Margaret's Bay, visit 
 the fine Norm. ch. in the village 
 above, and then either follow an 
 easily traced field-path to Dover 
 (4 m.), or bear off to the left for a 
 coastguard station, called Cornhill 
 (the Lighthouses may be taken in the 
 way), near to which will be found 
 the ' zigzag ' leading to the beach, 
 whence a rough path will conduct 
 to the East Cliff at Dover (Rte. 2). 
 
 From Dover to Folkestone the road 
 should be followed, for the sake of 
 the magnificent view from the cliffs. 
 At 4 m. from Dover is the Lydden 
 Spout coastguard station, whence 
 Peter Becker's stairs give access to 
 the beach, and the Channel Tunnel 
 Works (not open to the public\ and 
 to Folkestone also, if the tourist 
 pleases. (Rte. 2, Exc. (c) from 
 Folkestone.) Beyond Folkestone 
 the road to Sandgate and Hythe 
 (5m.) is never out of sight of the 
 sea, and on the hill above is the 
 camp at Shorncliffe, for which, as 
 well as for Hythe and Lymne, see 
 Rte. 2. 
 
 On the N. bank of the Military 
 Canal are some small remains of 
 the ch. of West Hythe, with traces 
 of very early Norman masonry. 
 
 Hythe may also be conveniently 
 reached by rail from Dover, via 
 Sandling Junction (Rte. 2). From 
 
274 
 
 ROUTE 14. — NEW ROMNEY. 
 
 Hythe to Romney and other points 
 in 1 the Marsh/ the journey may be 
 made either by rail from Hythe 
 to Ashford, and on to Appledore, 
 where the Romney Marsh line 
 (running to Lydd, Dungeness, 
 and "New Romney) branches off, 
 or by road nearly parallel to the 
 coast. The road runs for the first 
 3 m. along the crest of the sea-wall, 
 which, more like one of Vauban's 
 bastions than a Flemish dune, here 
 protects the marshes. It is kept in 
 repair by a tax levied over the whole 
 district ; is about 20 ft. in height, 
 and 20 broad at the top. At the 
 base it widens to more than 300 ; 
 and its various outworks of jetties, 
 groins, and faggots, deserve attention, 
 as well as the vast sluices that regu- 
 late the drainage. At 3 m. from 
 Hythe is the Grand Redoubt, a massive 
 brick fort, with a deep fosse, and 
 Martello towers occur at short in- 
 tervals. 2 m. further is Dym- 
 church (Pop. 624), where the small 
 ch. has a Norman chancel arch. 
 During some works on the sea-wall 
 here in 1844, the remains of a Ro- 
 man pottery were discovered. Great 
 masses of pottery were found ; among 
 them, Samian ware of unusual beauty. 
 The greater part however was a grey 
 ware, resembling that of the Roman 
 pottery at Upchurch on the Medway 
 (Rte. 3). Few coins were found; 
 but some sepulchral deposits, in- 
 dicating a permanent settlement. 
 Under the pottery were discovered 
 bones of the mammoth and whale ; 
 and above it Saxon and mediaeval 
 relics ; — a singular mixture of ages. 
 Seen from Dymchurch beach, Rom- 
 ney looks very picturesque, the 
 cluster of trees near the town con- 
 trasting well with the yellow sand 
 of the Warren, where detachments 
 usually encamp in summer for ar- 
 tillery practice. Romney Hoy (only 
 navigable for boats) is the representa- 
 tive of the ancient harbour. On its 
 S. shore is Stone End, where a heap of 
 stones was long shown, called the 
 Tomb of SS. Crispin and Crispini- 
 anus, who, so runs the tradition, 
 
 having been martyred by the Roman 
 Governor in Gaul and thrown into 
 the sea, their bodies were washed on 
 shore and buried here. (Their legend 
 was also connected with Faversham, 
 Rte. 3.) 
 
 9 m. N"EW ROMNEY (Pop. 
 1,366). Rumen-ea, 'large island' 
 (Somner — but query), the most 
 central of the Cinque Ports, but 
 now 2 m. distant from the sea. 
 
 The importance of Romney as 
 a seaport ceased altogether after the 
 storm which changed the course of 
 the Rother (temp. Edw. I.). The 
 general courts of the Cinque Ports, 
 however, were long held here, after 
 their removal from Shepway Cross, 
 near Lymne, and to the present day 
 it possesses, beside considerable 
 landed estates in the Marsh, all the 
 privileges of the Ports that modern 
 legislation has spared (Rte. 2). 
 There were formerly five churches 
 (SS.John Baptist, Lawrence, Martin, 
 Michael, and Nicholas), of which 
 only St. Nicholas remains. This 
 is a noble structure, and of great 
 size. It is mainly Norm., a part of 
 the nave being E.E., and has a lofty 
 pinnacled tower, with exterior 
 Norm, arcade. There are a few good 
 monuments, and Brasses for Thos. 
 Lamberd, 15 14 ; and Thos. Smyth, 
 his wife and two daughters, 1610. 
 Notice in S. aisle the tomb of 
 Richard Stuppeneye, jurat in 1509 
 (d. 1527), before which the election 
 of the mayor takes place on March 
 25th in each year. Notice also the 
 painted window which commemor- 
 ates the wreck of the Northjleet, run 
 down off Dungeness, Jan. 22, 1873. 
 New Romney was disfranchised by 
 the Reform Act, in consequence of 
 which it escaped the operation of the 
 Municipal Reform Acts, and pre- 
 serves many of the old Cinque Ports 
 customs that have died out else- 
 where, as the election of the mayor 
 in the ch., and the announcement of 
 the coming event by sound of 
 trumpet the evening before. It 
 [ received a charter of incorporation 
 
ROUTE 14. OLD ROMNEY ROMNEY MARSH. 275 
 
 in 1885, and is governed by a mayor, 
 4 aldermen, and 12 councillors. In 
 the Guildhall are preserved many 
 ancient and important documents 
 connected with the Cinque Ports. 
 The ch. belonged to the abbey of 
 Pontigny, which had a cell here ; 
 and there was also a leper-house, 
 dedicated toSS. Stephen and Thomas 
 of Canterbury, but no traces of the 
 latter now remain, and those of the 
 former are inconsiderable. Romney 
 is a kind of capital of the marsh 
 district, and a well-attended fair, at 
 which the hardy, if not handsome, 
 sheep of the Marsh breed may be 
 seen in thousands, is held on 
 August 21. 
 
 On the sea coast, 1 m. from the 
 outskirts of New Romney, is situated 
 Iiittlestone-on-Sea, formerly a 
 Coastguard Station, now rising 
 into the dignity of a seaside resort. 
 There is a good beach and sands, and 
 a wide view, bounded by Dungeness. 
 
 Old Romney (Pop. 1 5o\ about im. 
 W. and higher up the ancient course 
 of the Rother, was once a seaport. 
 The silting up of the river's mouth 
 must have begun at a very early 
 period, since New Romney was 
 established soon after the Conquest. 
 The Ch. (St. Clement) stands on a 
 hillock embosomed in trees. It is 
 small, and has a low tower at the 
 S. W. angle ; the font is Norm. 1 m. 
 N.E. are some remains of Hope CJiapel. 
 They are Trans. -Norm. 
 
 [Romney is a good point from 
 which to penetrate the rich grazing 
 district of Romney Marsh, in 
 which are numerous churches, many 
 of Norm, date, and otherwise of 
 interest, for much of the land 
 formerly belonged to the monks of 
 Canterbury, who, it may be seen, 
 did not neglect their outlying 
 parishes. 
 
 The Marsh is traversed by the 
 Romney Marsh Railway — which 
 branches off the Ashford and Hast- 
 ings line at Appledore (Rte. n) and 
 
 runs via Brookland to Lydd 
 — whence it divides to New Rom- 
 ney and Dungeness. It is no 
 longer possible to justify the 
 old saying of the neighbourhood, 
 that 'the world is divided into 
 Europe, Asia, Africa, America, and 
 Romney Marsh/ The greater part 
 of this land is of ancient formation, 
 though it has widened considerably 
 within the historic period, owing to 
 fresh accumulations of silt and 
 shingle. An elaborate inquiry into 
 the exact history of the formation of 
 this district will be found in the 2nd 
 ed. of Mr. Lewin's Invasion of Britain 
 by Julius Cwsar (1862). Mr. Lewin, 
 as before remarked, fixes the landing 
 of Caesar on this part of the coast. 
 There certainly were Roman settle- 
 ments on it ; and the Merscwara 
 (marshen) of the Saxon Chronicle 
 (whose district formed, according to 
 Kemble, one of the small dependent 
 'kingdoms' into which Kent was 
 divided during the early Saxon 
 period) have had their constant 
 successors, though few in number, 
 notwithstanding the malaria, which 
 rendered it, says Lambarde, 'bad 
 in winter, worse in summer, and at 
 no time good ; 1 a statement hardly 
 accurate at the present day. It is 
 about 14 m. long, and 8 broad, com- 
 prises 20 parishes, with a pop. of 
 about 7000, and is divided into four 
 districts — Romney Marsh proper, 
 N. ; Walling Marsh, adjoining, 
 S. ; and Denge Marsh and Guild- 
 ford Level, part of which lies in 
 Sussex, S.E. and W. Romney Marsh 
 proper contains 23,925 acres, and the 
 other three 22,666. 
 
 Most of the churches stand on a 
 hillock surrounded by well-grown 
 trees, and many of the substantial 
 farmhouses are similarly guarded 
 from the bleak winds, but beyond 
 these there is little timber through- 
 out the district, and the principal 
 divisions are formed by dykes and 
 watercourses. Cattle and sheep are 
 fed in great numbers ; the latter a 
 peculiar breed, said to be capable of 
 enduring greater privations from 
 
276 ROUTE 14. — EOMNEY 
 
 MARSH — BROOKLAND. 
 
 cold and stinted food than any other 
 < lowlanders/ The green cattle- 
 dotted plain, with its gleaming 
 water-lines, is not Without beauty 
 when overlooked from the adjoining 
 heights — often presenting singular 
 effects of light. The line of the 
 ancient estuary, which, beyond 
 Dymchurch, passed inland as far as 
 Lymne, is readily traceable by the 
 eye, as the sand with which the soil 
 is filled contrasts strongly in colour 
 with the rich pastures southward. 
 
 The whole tract was very early 
 fenced from the incursions of the 
 sea, 24 jurors having been elected 
 from an unknown period for taking 
 all necessary steps towards its pre- 
 servation. Some complaint having 
 been made by these jurors in the 
 reign of Henry III., the king issued 
 a commission under Henry de Bathe, 
 one of his Justices Itinerant, by 
 whom a session was held at Romney; 
 and the c Ordinances of Henry de 
 Bathe,' then agreed to, still lie at the 
 bottom of the English law of drain- 
 ing and embanking. The whole of 
 the Marsh was incorporated by 
 Edward IV., under whose charter 
 the government was placed in the 
 hands of a bailiff and 24 jurats. The 
 repair of the walls, and the drain- 
 age, is, however, vested in the lords 
 of 23 adjoining manors, called ' The 
 Lords of the Levels/ 
 
 The Marsh is defended from the 
 sea by Dymchurch Wall, on its E. side, 
 3 m. long. But for this barrier the 
 sea would overflow it at once. The 
 interior drainage is effected by a 
 number of divisions called water- 
 ings. The Rhee Wall, which runs 
 across it from Appledore to Romney, 
 marks the old course of the Rother, 
 from which the river is said first to 
 have been diverted by the results of 
 a great tempest temp. Edw. I. In 
 this old bed an ancient vessel, ap- 
 parently of Danish build, was found 
 1824 ; it was entirely of oak. 
 Romney Marsh is severed from the 
 mainland by the Military Canal, 
 running from Hythe to the Rother, 
 above Rye. The cutting if continued 
 
 to the sea at Hythe would isolate 
 the i Marsh ' and render the landing 
 of an enemy ineffective. 
 
 From early times this district was 
 a great resort of smugglers, and so 
 powerful were they that several of 
 the churches were made to surrender 
 an aisle or a chapel as a storehouse, 
 the few inhabitants who did not 
 join in the 'fair trade' (as it was 
 called) being overawed by the 
 majority who did. Even at the 
 present day the Coastguard are un- 
 usually numerous, and some of them 
 are mounted men. In this district, 
 too, the disaffected have often found 
 refuge. Jacobite emissaries at the 
 time of the Revolution, as well as 
 long after, lay hid here ; Hurst 
 House, near Bonnington, was their 
 especial rendezvous. Godfrey Cross, 
 an innkeeper of Lydd, was hanged 
 in 1690 for treasonable communica- 
 tions with DeTourville, who gained 
 the battle off Beachy Head (Hdbk. 
 Sussex, Rte. 6) ; and Sir John Fen- 
 wick was captured at New Romney, 
 whilst hiding under the assumed 
 name of Thomas Ward. 
 
 The churches of most interest, 
 beside Romney and Lydd, are 
 Brenzett,Brookland, Ivy church, 
 Newchurch, and Snargate. Of 
 
 these Brenzett, Brookland, and Ivy- 
 church may be best reached from 
 Brookland Stat. : Newchurch from 
 New Romney : Snargate from Apple- 
 dore. 
 
 The Ch. of Brenzett (1 m. E. from 
 Brookland Stat.\ dedicated to St. 
 Eanswith of Folkestone, has some 
 Norm, portions, and contains some 
 i7th-cent. monuments of the Fogges. 
 It long belonged to the Abbey of 
 Guisnes in Artois. 
 
 Brookland, f m. from Brook- 
 land Stat., and 6 m. from Romney, 
 is worth the journey thither. It be- 
 longed to St. Augustine's, Canter- 
 bury. The bell-tower, built of 
 massive timber, is detached from 
 the ch., and of unusual form. The 
 font is Norm., of lead, and enriched 
 
ROUTE 14. — IVYCHURCH — LYDD. 
 
 277 
 
 by two rows of minute figures, form- 
 ing a kind of calendar, with zodiacal 
 signs, which is engraved in Arch. 
 Cant, j vol. iv. 
 
 Ivychurch, 3 m. fromBrookland, 
 is a large, handsome edifice, dedi- 
 cated to St. Martin. It is E.E. and 
 Dec, with a lofty Perp. tower and 
 6-sided beacon turret, which is a very 
 conspicuous object, and useful as a 
 landmark in the marshes. 'Some 
 Perp. stalls remain.' 
 
 Newchurch, 5} m. from New 
 Romney, is mainly E.E., with tower 
 and beacon turret at the W. end. It 
 contains an octagon font with coats 
 of arms, and several handsome 
 tombs. 
 
 Snargate Church, 2 m. from 
 Appledore, is mainly E.E. It has 
 some fragments of painted glass, and 
 also some encaustic tiles. In this ch. 
 a chantry, with three good windows, 
 formerly blocked off, and used as 
 a smugglers' storehouse, has been 
 lately (1866) thrown open. The 
 neighbouring ch. of Snave (restored) 
 is of no particular interest ; and the 
 ruined chapels of Midley, Black- 
 manstone,Orgarswick,and East- 
 bridge, are in too dilapidated a 
 condition to repay the trouble of 
 searching them out, though the 
 most distant is not 6 m. from New 
 Romney.] 
 
 The road from Romney to Rye 
 (12 m.) passes through Brookland, 
 leaving Fairford, with its very 
 poor little brick ch., remarkable as 
 being dedicated to St. Thomas of 
 Canterbury, as is the church at 
 Capel near Tudeley (Rte. 2), on the 
 N., and Great Cheyne Court, once a 
 mansion but now a farmhouse, on 
 the S. ; it points out the site of a 
 tract of land reclaimed from the sea 
 by Cardinal Bourchier. In due time 
 we pass the still more miserable ch. 
 of East Guildford, and soon after 
 reach Rye (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 2). 
 
 LYDD (Pop. 2,070), 4 m. S. of 
 
 Romney, a member of that Cinque 
 Port, is now of more consideration 
 than its parent. Though 4 m. 
 distant from the sea, most of the 
 boats that pursue the fishery are 
 owned here. The Ch., dedicated to 
 All Saints, is a large cruciform Perp. 
 building, with a fine pinnacled tower. 
 It was once a possession of Tintern 
 Abbey, having been given to it by 
 one of the De Clares. In the N. 
 chancel is the altar-tomb, with effig}\ 
 of Sir Walter Meynell, temp. Edw. 
 III. ; and there are also the follow- 
 ing Brasses (some of them loose' : — 
 John Motesfont, vicar, 1420 ; John 
 Thomas, 1429 ; Thomas Godefray, 
 1430, and wife ; a civilian, c. 1510 ; 
 a civilian, c. 1530 ; Thos. Harte and 
 wife, 1557 ; Peter Godfrye, i566,and 
 wife ; Thos. Bate, 1579 ; a civilian 
 and wife, 1590 ; John Berrey, 1597 ; 
 Clement Stuppeny, jurat and bailiff, 
 1608 ; Laurence Stuppenye, 1613. 
 The upper part of the tower is said 
 to have been built by Cardinal 
 Wolsey when vicar here. 
 
 The districts called Dungemarsh 
 and Dungebeach, lying E. and S. 
 of Lydd, can be reached either by rail 
 from Lydd, or by a walk over the 
 stony tract lying between Lydd and 
 the Ness. The land here is con- 
 sidered to be of more recent forma- 
 tion than the rest of the marsh. 
 About 1 \ m. S. of the town is a tract 
 called the Holmstone, where holly 
 trees grow to some size (as they did 
 in the time of Leland) ; and stunted 
 elder-bushes in many parts furnish 
 an excellent cover for hares, which 
 abound and afford good coursing. 
 Excellent fishing ground is found 
 off the coast, and in the summer the 
 whole district is gay with the bright 
 colours of the foxglove and other 
 wild flowers, and most of the in- 
 habitants are 4 bee-masters/ the 
 beach-honey fetching a high price 
 in the London market. On the 
 ' Rypes ' outside the town a military 
 camp has been formed— where it is 
 proposed to test guns of large size as 
 at Shoeburyness. 
 
278 
 
 ROUTE 14. — DUNGENESS — RYE. 
 
 At 4 m. from Lydd we reach the 
 long low point of Dungeness, sur- 
 rounded by flats and sand-shoals, 
 and in its aspect contrasting not a 
 little with the bold chalk cliffs of 
 the next headland, Beachy (Hdbk. 
 Sussex, Rte. 6). The point is said 
 to have extended nearly \ m. seaward 
 within living memory. This growth 
 is caused by the accumulation of 
 shingle, which throughout the Chan- 
 nel is in constant motion, generally 
 from W. to E. (Rte. 2). The point 
 of Dungeness is one of the most 
 dangerous in the English Channel 
 and the most difficult for ships to 
 weather. It was stated in the House 
 of Commons, in 1875, that no fewer 
 than 20 wrecks were visible in the 
 East Bay. 
 
 At only 260 yards from low- water 
 mark rises the Lighthouse, a lofty 
 round tower, with a cluster of dwell- 
 ings, workshops, &c, round it, the 
 whole inclosed by a strong wall, 
 and painted red by way of distinc- 
 tion as a sea-mark. A lighthouse 
 on this spot was first projected 
 by a brother goldsmith of George 
 Heriot, temp. Jas. I., named Allen. 
 This old light was replaced toward 
 the end of the last century by the 
 present structure, which was built 
 by Wyatt, for Mr. Coke of Holkham 
 (afterwards Earl of Leicester), lord 
 of the manor, but it was purchased 
 of him by the Trinity House in 183 1, 
 and has been since greatly improved. 
 A fog-horn is worked by steam in 
 thick weather, and a signalling sta- 
 tion is adjacent. The lighthouse 
 is open to visitors for several hours 
 
 daily, but no one is admitted at 
 night. 
 
 There is excellent anchorage on 
 each side of Dungeness, and the 
 East and West hays are both pro- 
 vided with coastguard stations, and 
 forts in which Armstrong guns are 
 mounted. Two small Inns offer some 
 slight accommodation for the tourist. 
 The population is almost exclusively 
 artillerymen and coast-guardsmen 
 and their families, and for their 
 benefit a room in the lighthouse is 
 fitted up as a chapel, in which divine 
 service is performed every Sunday 
 by one of the clergy from Lydd. A 
 project is in contemplation for 
 establishing a harbour in this neigh- 
 bourhood — whence a line of steamers 
 should run to a port on the opposite 
 French coast. Dungeness is 20 miles 
 from the point known as Cape 
 Grisnez. 
 
 Dungeness is 10 m. from Rye, 
 which is best reached by returning 
 to Lydd ; but the journey may be 
 accomplished by keeping along the 
 shore, passing the site of the ruined 
 ch. of Broomhill, and among the sand- 
 hills of Camber, and then taking the 
 ferry to the Ypres tower at Rye 
 (Hdbk. Sussex, Rte. 2) ; crossing 
 Dungemarsh, and Walling Marsh, in 
 Kent ; and Guildford level in Sussex. 
 
 EYE, crowning the hill on which 
 it is picturesquely situated is an 
 agreeable prospect for the eye after 
 the levels of the Marsh. At Rye we 
 regain the line from Ashford to 
 Hastings which we left at Appledore 
 (P- 213). 
 
INDEX, 1904. 
 
 Note : — While every effort has heen made to render the information in the 
 Index accurate up to the date of issue, travellers should, nevertheless, verify 
 locally and, in regard to conveyances, consult the current time-tables. 
 
 The names of places not in the county are placed in square brackets [ ]. 
 
 Mr. Edward Stanford, 12, 13, and 14, Long Acre, London, W.C., will be 
 grateful for any corrections relating to these pages which travellers may be kind 
 enough to address to him. 
 
 A. 
 
 Abbey Farm, 108. 
 
 ABBEY WOOD, 185. 
 
 ABBOT, Abp., his retirement 
 to Ford, 176. 
 
 Abbot's Cliff tunnel, 50. 
 
 Acrise, 47. 
 
 ADDINGTON, 207. 
 
 ADISHAM, eh., 154. 
 
 JEDILBERGE, St., her nun- 
 nery at Lyminge,47 ; burial- 
 place, 47. 
 
 ALDINGTON, 37. 
 
 ALKHAM, ch., 47. 
 
 Allen's Farm, Roman re- 
 mains, 238. 
 
 ALL HALLOWS, Hoo, ch., 
 97- 
 
 ALLINGTON, pop. 141. ij 
 m. from Maidstone : ch., 
 204; A. Castle, 203. 
 
 Inn : The Malta, small (at 
 Sandling). 
 
 AlPHEGE, Abp., 13 ; shrine 
 at Canterbury, 123. 
 
 Altar, Canterbury Cathedral, 
 
 Amberstone, 25. 
 ANSELM, Abp., 117, 132. 
 Anselm's (St.) Chapel, 132. 
 APPLEDORE, 257. 
 Apple orchards in Kent, [10]. 
 
 c Arcadia,' Sir P. Sidney's, 29. 
 Kent vi. 04.] 
 
 Archcliff Fort, Dover, 49. I 
 
 Architecture, mediaeval, of 
 Kent, 7, 93. 
 
 Armada, the Spanish, 21, 53. 
 
 Arsenal, Royal, Wool- 
 wich, 14, 181. 
 
 Artillery Barracks, Dover, 54 ; 
 Woolwich, 148. 
 
 — Practice ground at New 
 Romney, 274 ; at Shoebury- 
 ness, 23 ; at Woolwich, 183. 
 
 ASH, ch., 168. 
 
 — (Fawkham), 72. 
 
 ASHFIELD (Hawkhurst), 
 255. 
 
 ASHFORD. 35, 250. Popu- 
 lation, 12,808. 
 
 Station: S.E. & C.R., East 
 station S. of town. (The West 
 station is no longer used for 
 passenger traffic.) 
 
 Omnibuses meet every 
 train. Omnibus leaves S.E. 
 station at 5.30 p.m. for Ten- 
 terden ; and at 6.10 p.m. for 
 Woodchurch. 
 
 Hotels : Saracen's Head. 
 Fearnley (temperance). Re- 
 freshments at stat. 
 
 Post Office : Bank St. 
 
 Banks : London and 
 County; Lloyd's. 
 
 Market: Tuesday. 
 
 Swimming Bath in town : 
 1 acre of water. 
 
 Church : St. Mary's, fine 
 tower, tombs, brasses. 
 
 Old Grammar School- 
 building, 1635. 
 
 Assembly Rooms: High 
 St. 
 
 ASHFORD SOUTH, 35. 
 
 ASHURST, 30. 
 
 Augustine (St.), place of 
 landing, 220, 223 ; baptisms 
 in the Swale by. 263 ; monas- 
 tery, 117; burial-place, 140. 
 
 A ugustine's (St.) College, 
 
 Canterbury, 140. 
 — CROSS, at Richborough, 167. 
 — , near Ramsgate, 222. 
 
 AYLESFORD, 193. Popu- 
 lation, 2,678. 
 
 Station: S.E.&C.R. cloa 
 to town. 
 
 Inns: small. 
 
 Post Office. 
 
 Church : Colpeper tombs. 
 
 Battlefield, a.t>. 455. 
 
 Carriers to Burham and 
 Maidstone. Nearest station 
 to Kit's Coity House and 
 the 'Countless Stones'; The 
 Friars (private). Good start- 
 ing-point for Boxley and 
 Allington. 
 
 B. 
 
 Backbone of Kent, 42, 
 192. 
 
 B A DLESMERE, 259. 
 Baker's Cross. Prison, 254. 
 Banks Town, Sheerness, 264. 
 BAPCHILB, ch., 107. 
 
 BARFRESTON, 156. Po- 
 pulation, 92. i£ m. walk 
 from Shepherd's Well Stat. 
 Refreshments at White Half 
 Jnw, near the stat. Carriages 
 from White Hall Inn to 
 Barfreston. 
 
 X 
 
280 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 BARHAM, 49. 
 
 — ch., 155. 
 
 — Court, near Teston, 64. 
 
 — Downs, 155. 
 [Barking], 14. 
 BARMING, 64. 
 
 B arming Heath, 64. 
 Barrows in Kent, 45, 72, 
 
 J 55> 178, 192, 216. 
 BAESON, 156. 
 Batteley, N., 153. 
 Battle Hall, Leeds, 247. 
 Bay ford Castle, 106. 
 
 [BAYHAM ABBEY], 251. 
 
 Can be seen on Mondays 
 and Wednesdays from 10 
 a.m. to 6 p.m. (Adm. 6d.) 
 
 Nearest stats. : Frant (about 
 3 m.) or Goudhurst (about 
 3 m.) S.E.&C.E. Nearest 
 hotels (small) : Chequers or 
 George, Lamberhurst. 
 
 Beaohborough House, 42, 
 46. 
 
 [Beacon Hill] , Purfleet, 16. 
 BEARSTED, 244. 
 Golf Course. 
 
 BECKENHAM, 64. Popu- 
 lation, 26,331. 
 
 Stations : Beckenham 
 Junction (Central) ; S.E. & 
 C.E., and L.B.S.C.R. ; Kent 
 House. S.E. & C.R., about 
 1 m. West ; Beckenham Hill, 
 S.E. & C.R. (Nunhead and 
 Shortlands line) ; New Beck- 
 enham, S.E. & C.E., about 
 1 m. North. 
 
 Refreshments : Levens, 
 13, High St. ; Chalk. 40, 
 High St. 
 
 Post Offices: Albemarle 
 Ed., near Stat.; and High St. 
 
 Banks : London and 
 County; London and Pro- 
 vincial; London, City and 
 Midland. 
 
 BEGKET, Abp., 63, 124, 128, 
 129, 130, 140, 161, 169; his 
 wells, 45, 241. 
 
 [BECKTON], 14. 
 
 Bedgebury Park, 252. 
 
 BEEGHMOUNT, 235. 
 
 BEKESBOUENE, 152 ; Abp.'s 
 palace, 152 ; ch., discovery 
 of sepulchral shaft, 153. 
 
 BELERIGA, 37. 
 
 BELMONT, near Faversham, 
 260. 
 
 [Belmont Castle], 18. 
 
 BELVEDERE, 16, 186. 
 
 BEN EN DEN, ch., 255. 
 
 BETHEBSDEN, 258. 
 
 Betshanger, 169. 
 
 Beverley Ground,^, 145, 
 150. 
 
 BEXLEY, 70; brass, 70. 
 
 — HEATH, 186. 
 
 BICKLEY, 69, 228. 
 
 BICKNOE, ch., 247. 
 
 BIDBOEOUGH, 240. 
 
 BiFRONS, near Canterbury, 
 152. 
 
 Bigberry Wood, 217. 
 BILSINGTON, 259. 
 
 BIRCHINGTON, 23, 176, 
 226. Population, 2,128. 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.E. 
 
 Hotels : Bella Vista and 
 Bungalow. Both near sta- 
 tion. Many apartments in 
 town. 
 
 BIRCHINGTON BAY, 177. 
 Birchwood Corner, 244. 
 BlRLING, 209. 
 BlSHOPSBOURNE, ch., 150. 
 
 BLACKHEATH, 177, 178. 
 
 Stations : S.E. & C.E., 
 Tranquil Vale (for London 
 Br., Woolwich, Erith, Dart- 
 ford, &c.) ; Blackheath Hill 
 (for Nunhead and Victoria, 
 Crystal Palace, Greenwich, 
 &c). 
 
 Post Office : Beaconsfield 
 Buildings, Lee Rd. 
 
 Blagkmanstone, ruined 
 chapel, 277. 
 
 Blagksole Field, 237. 
 
 [BLACKWALL], railway and 
 steamers to, 3, 13. 
 
 Blaize's (St.) well, Bromley, 
 66. 
 
 Blean, forest of the, 113. 
 
 — Hills, 113. 
 BLENDON, 70. 
 
 Blue Town, Sheerness, 264. 
 
 Boar's Hill, Boar Place, near 
 Hever, 25. 
 
 — Isle, near Tenterden, ch., 
 257. 
 
 BOCKINGFOLD, 62. 
 BOLEY HILL, Rochester, 74. 
 Boleyn, Anne, 25, 203. 
 Boniface, Abp., 200. 
 BONNINGTON, 259. 
 BORDEN, ch., 104. 
 Borough Green, 209. 
 Bossenden Wood, 1 13. 
 BOUGHTON ALUPH, ch., 212. 
 
 — under-Blean, Ch., 112, 
 "3- 
 
 — Malherbe, ch., 249. 
 
 — MONCHELSEA, quarries, 
 210. 
 
 Bourchier, Cardinal, 47, 
 127, 231. 
 
 Bourne Park, barrows, 141. 
 
 [Bow creek], mouth of the 
 river Lea, 13. 
 
 BOXLEY, 205. 2k m. from 
 Maidstone. Pop. 1,490. The 
 Abbey, considerable re- 
 mains. Malta, small inn at 
 Sandling. 
 
 — Abbey, 204. 
 
 BRABOURNE, ch., 36. 
 
 Bradbourne Park, 2o6i 
 
 — , near Sevenoaks, 231. 
 
 Bradsole Abbey, 59. 
 
 ■Brasses in Kent :— • 
 Acrise, 47. 
 Addington, 207. 
 Ash, 168. 
 A shford, 35. 
 Aylesford, 194. 
 Bethersden, 258. 
 Bexley, 70. 
 Birchington, 176. 
 Brabourne, 37. 
 Bredgar, 106. 
 Canterbury, 146. 
 Chart Magna, 258. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 281 
 
 BRASSES IN KENT — 
 
 contd. 
 Chartham, 216. 
 Chatham, 100. 
 CheJsfield, 230. 
 Chevening, 236. 
 Chislehurst, 230. 
 Cliffe, 190. 
 Cobhain, 94. 
 Cowling, 191. 
 Cray, St. Mary, 69. 
 Dartford, 187. 
 Edenbridge, 24. 
 Erith, 15. 
 Farningham, 71. 
 Faversham, 109. 
 Folkestone, 43. 
 Fordwich, 160. 
 Goodnestone, near Adisham , 
 
 154- 
 
 Goudhurst, 252. 
 Graveney, 173. 
 Hailing, 192. 
 Halstead, 230. 
 Hardres, Upper, 151. 
 Hayes, 67. 
 Heine, 174. 
 Hever, 25. 
 
 Hoo, St. Werburgh, 97. 
 Horsmonden, 250. 
 Horton Kirby, 71. 
 Ightham, 237. 
 Isle of Grain, 265. 
 Kemsing, 242. 
 Lawrence, St., 223. 
 Leigh, 26. 
 Luddesdown, 192. 
 Lullingstone, 241. 
 Lydd, 277. 
 Maidstone, 198. 
 Mailing, East, 206. 
 — , West, 206. 
 Margate, St. John, 226. 
 Milton next Sittingbourne, 
 106. 
 
 Minster, in Sheppey, 106, 
 
 266. 
 Monkton, 221. 
 Newington, 46, 104. 
 — , near Hythe, 46. 
 Nicholas (St.) at Wade, 221. 
 Northfleet, 19. 
 Orpington, 230. 
 Penshurst, 30. 
 Peter's, St., 225. 
 Pluckley, 35. 
 Rainham, 102. 
 Rochester, St. Margaret, 79. 
 Romney, New, 274. 
 Saltwood, 40. 
 Sandwich, 163. 
 Seal, 235. 
 Sheldwich, 260. 
 Shorne, 95. 
 Snodland, 193. 
 Stone, near Greenhithe, 17. 
 Strood, 69. 
 Sundridge, 242. 
 Sutton, East, 249. 
 Teynham, 107. 
 Tunstall, 106. 
 Ulcombe, 249. 
 
 BRASSES IN KENT— 
 
 contd. 
 Westerham, 243. 
 Wickham, East, 186. 
 Wrotham, 237. 
 
 Brasted Park, 243. 
 
 Bredgar, eh., 106. 
 
 Brenchley, ch., 34, 250. 
 
 BRIDGE, ch., 150. Popula- 
 tion, 775. 
 
 Station : S.E.& C.R. (El- 
 ham Valley line). 
 
 Hotel : Red Lion (small). 
 
 Golf Links. 
 
 Excursions : Bishops- 
 bourne ; Patrixbourne ; 
 Gorsley Wood (Celtic re- 
 mains). 
 
 BROADSTAIRS, 117, 224. 
 
 Population, 6,466. 
 
 Station: S.E.&C.R., W. 
 of the town. 
 Small Pier. 
 
 Hotels : Grand ; Royal 
 Albion; Railway; Rosenthal 
 and Seq/feW(private). Several 
 large boarding houses in 
 town. 
 
 Post Office : R.S.O. 
 
 Bank: Lloyd's. 
 
 St. Peter's Church. 1 m. 
 
 Kingsgate Castle, i^m. 
 
 North Foreland. 2 m. 
 
 Brockhill, ancient chapel, 40. 
 
 BROMLEY, 65. Popula- 
 tion, 27,354 (made a Munici- 
 pal Borough in 1903). 
 
 Stations : S.E. & C. R.— 
 Bromley North Station for 
 London (Charing Cross) ; 
 Bromley South Station for 
 Victoria (via Beckenham), 
 Ashford (via Bickley and 
 Maidstone), Gravesend, Chat- 
 ham, Sheerness, Margate, 
 Ramsgate, Canterbury, 
 Dover. 
 
 Omnibuses from Market 
 Sq. to Keston, Hayes, and 
 Farnborough. 
 
 Hotels: Bell and White 
 Hart, High St. 
 
 Post Office : East St. 
 
 Bank : London and 
 County; Martin's; London, 
 City $ Midland; Union of 
 London and Smith's. 
 
 Golf: 18 hole course on 
 Bromley Common, 1 m. from 
 Bickley Stat. 
 
 Recreation Ground : 
 
 Queen's Mead, Martin's Hill. 
 BROMPTON, NEW, 97. 
 — , OLD, 100. 
 Brook, ch., 211. 
 BROOKLAND, 275. 
 Broome Park, 155. 
 BUCKLAND, near Dover, 158. 
 Bur ham, 193. 
 BURSTON, 62. 
 Bysing Woods, 108. 
 
 C. 
 
 Cade, John, 36, 178. 
 
 Cmsar, [2], 269, 275. 
 
 CESAR'S CAMP, near Folke- 
 stone, 43, 68. 
 
 Cale Hill, 35. 
 
 Camber, sand-hills, 278. 
 
 Camden, 22, 97, 219, 228. 
 
 — PARK, Chislehurst, 228. 
 
 CAMPEIUS, Cardinal, 178. 
 
 Camps in Kent, [6], 46, 68, 
 
 »4i i57. 
 [Canal, City], 5. 
 Canal, Royal Military, 39. 
 — , Thames and Medway, 20. 
 Candelberg, or Canterbury, 
 
 115. 
 
 CANTERBURY, 114. 
 
 Population, 24,899. 
 
 Stations: S.E.&C.R.— 
 East Station for Victoria 
 (via Faversham), Dover (via 
 Kearsney) ; West Station for 
 Ashford, Folkestone and 
 Dover, Deal, Ramsgate, 
 Margate, Whitstable. 
 
 Omnibuses between Win- 
 cheap and St. Dunstan's 
 Stations. Daily : — Ash 
 (from George and Dragon), 
 3.30 p.m. ; Ash (from Sun), 
 3.30 p.m . ; Heme Bay (from 
 Sun), 5 p.m. ; Heme Bay 
 (from Victoria), 5 p.m. ; 
 Heme Bay (from Seven 
 Stars), 9.30 a.m. ; Wing- 
 ham (from George and 
 Dragon), 3.30 p.m. ; Wing- 
 ham and Sandwich, (from 
 Sun), 4 p.m. 
 
 Cabs at each station. 
 
 Hotels : County Hotel, cen- 
 tral, all modern require- 
 ments ; Rose, High St. ; 
 Fountain^ St. Margaret's St. ; 
 
 X 2 
 
282 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 CANTERBURY— conftf. 
 Fleur de Lys, High St. Re- 
 freshments at Wincheap and 
 St. Dunstan's Stations ; and 
 at Gaywood 's, 40, High St. ; 
 and Wilson's, St. George's St. 
 
 Post Offices : King's 
 Bridge; St. Dunstan's; Bridge 
 St. (corner of St. George's St.) 
 
 Banks : London County; 
 Capital Sf Counties ; Lloyd's. 
 
 Market: Saturdays. 
 
 Museum: Guildhall St. 
 Open 10 to 4. Free. 
 
 Castle: Castle St., near 
 L.C.D.R. station. 
 
 Walls. 
 
 Dane John: near L.C.D.R. 
 Station. 
 
 St Augustine'sCollege : 
 
 Monastery St. Open after 
 3 P- m - 
 
 Churches (most interest- 
 ing) : St. Martin's ; St. 
 Dunstan's; St. George's; St. 
 Mildred's; Holy Cross; St. 
 Margaret's ; St. Pancras 
 (foundations) ; St. Stephen's 
 (1 mile out); St. Paul's. 
 
 Cathedral Services : 
 
 Sundays, 8.15, 10.30, and 
 6.30. Daily 10 and 3. In 
 winter 10 and 4. 
 
 Swimming Baths : near 
 Westgate. 
 
 Cricket Ground : St. 
 
 Lawrence's. 
 
 Theatre : Guildhall St. 
 
 Golf: 9 hole course 1 m. 
 from Stat. 
 
 Barracks : Military Road. 
 
 CANTERBURY, history, 
 115; cathedral, 116; St. Au- 
 gustine's, 140 ; St. Martin's, 
 143 ; the Dane John, 145 ; 
 castle, churches, 145 ; religi- 
 ous houses, 146 ; East Bridge 
 Hospital, Museum, 147 ; 
 Guildhall, 148 ; excursions, 
 149. 
 
 — CATHEDRAL, history, 
 116; existing ch., porch, 118 ; 
 ground - plan, 119; nave, 
 j 20; choir, 121 ; screen, 122 ; 
 reredos, shrines, 123 ; tran- 
 sept of the Martyrdom, 124 ; 
 Deans' chapel, N. aisle of 
 Choir, 126 ; St. Andrew's 
 tower, Chicheley tomb, 127; 
 Trinity chapel, Becket's 
 ahrine and other monuments, 
 
 CANTERBURY — contd. 
 128 ; St. Anselm's tower and 
 chapel, 132 ; S.E. transept, 
 133 ; Warriors' chapel, 133 ; 
 crypt, 134 ; tower, precincts, 
 136 ; Infirmary, Treasury, 
 Dark Entry, 137; cloisters, 
 138; Green Court, Deanery, 
 King's School, 138; Abp.'s 
 Palace, 139. 
 
 — Barracks, 148. 
 
 — Walls, 148. 
 Cantium, 227. 
 
 [Canvey Island], light- 
 house, 22. 
 
 Capel Fleet, Sheppey, 267. 
 
 — Manor, near Horsmonden, 
 250. 
 
 Capel, near Dover, 49. 
 
 LE-FERNE, 47. 
 
 Carmelite Fxiabs, 194, 
 256. 
 
 Caroline, queen of George 
 IV., 178. 
 
 Castle Rough, 106. 
 
 — Toll, near Newenden, 
 256. 
 
 Caxton, William, 258. 
 
 Cemeteries, Osengal, 223, 
 226; Sarre, 160; Wye, 211. 
 
 Chair, Archbishop's, 132. 
 
 CHALK, ch., 96, 190. 
 
 CHALK PITS, remarkable at 
 Crayford, 186; at East Til- 
 bury, 21. 
 
 Chalk-workers, goddess of the, 
 [73. 
 
 CHALLOOK, ch., 212, 259. 
 
 — Lees, 238. 
 Channel Tunnel, 49. 
 [Chapman Sand], 22. 
 CHARING, 213, 250. 
 CHARLES V., 51, 129. 
 
 — /., 51, 141. 
 
 — II., 7, 51, 78, 142, 178, 227. 
 
 CHARLTON, ch., 13, 181. 
 — , near Dover, ch., 158. 
 — , Little, 249. 
 
 Chart, Great, 258. 
 
 — , Little, 35. 
 
 CHART'S EDGE, Westerham, 
 243. 
 
 CHARTHAM, 215. 
 
 CHATHAM, 98. Popula- 
 tion, 37,057. 
 Stations: S.E. & C.R.— 
 Central Station (High St.) 
 for Strood and Dartford ; 
 Chatham Hill Station for 
 Strood, New Brompton, 
 Gravesend, Sheerness, Mar- 
 gate, Ramsgate, Canterbury, 
 Dover. Refreshments at 
 Chatham Hill Station. 
 
 Electric Trams to Luton, 
 Brompton, Gillingham, &c. 
 
 Omnibuses to Strood and 
 Rochester. 
 
 Steamers (in summer) to 
 Upnor, Sheerness, and 
 Southend (time-tables in 
 ' Observer'). 
 
 Cab Fare: Station to 
 barracks, is. 6d. 
 
 Hotels : Sun, close to the 
 pier where the steamers 
 touch daily during the 
 summer months on their 
 way to and from Sheerness 
 and Southend; Mitre, High 
 St. ; King's Head, High St. ; 
 Refreshment Rooms : Globe 
 Restaurant, High St. 
 
 Post Office : 77, High St. 
 
 Banks : London and 
 County, High St. ; London 
 and Provincial, High St. ; 
 Lloyd's ; Capital $ Counties. 
 
 Dockyard: N. of town. 
 Admission on conditions 
 which may be learned at 
 entrance. 
 
 Institute : Old Brompton. 
 
 Barracks : Engineers' and 
 Royal Marine. 
 
 Recreation Ground : 
 
 Fort Pitt. 
 
 Convict Prison : N. of 
 
 town. 
 
 Clubs : ' Conservative ' 
 and ' Reform,' Military Rd, 
 
 CHATHAM, dockyard, 98; 
 ships burnt by the Dutch, 
 99 ; ch. and brass, hospitals, 
 100; Chatham Lines, 10 1. 
 — to Dover, 97. 
 
 CHATHAM, Lord, at Hayes 
 Place, 67 ; at Chevening, 236. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 283 
 
 clia ucer's canterbur y 
 Pilgrims, 102, 1 13, 1 14, 149, 
 150. 
 
 CHELSFIELD, 69; tunnel, 
 230. 
 
 CHERITON, ch., 46. 
 
 Cherries, [10], 108. 
 
 Cherry Garden Valley, near 
 Folkestone, 46. 
 
 — Gardens Pier, 5. 
 
 — Orchard farm, 181. 
 
 C'HEVENING, 235, 236. 
 
 Cheyne Court, Great, 277. 
 
 C hey ney Rock House, Shep- 
 pey, oyster fisheries, 173, 
 265. 
 
 cuiddingstone, 25. 
 
 — Castle, 25. 
 
 CHILHAM, 214. Popula- 
 tion, 1,321. 
 
 Station : S.E.R. about 
 £ m. from village. 
 
 Inn: The Alma, near 
 station. 
 
 Post Office : Mr. Clinch, 
 grocer's. 
 
 Church : tombs and monu- 
 ments. 
 
 Castle (not open without 
 special permission). 
 
 Village Square. 
 
 Julaber's Grave: Opp. 
 side of river. 
 
 Shottenden and Perry 
 Wood Hills, about 2 111. 
 
 CHILHAM PARK, 215. 
 
 CHILLENDEN, ch., 154. 
 
 CHILLENDEN, Prior, 120, 121. 
 
 CI lillington House, Maidstone, 
 200. 
 
 Chilstone Park, 249. 
 
 Chipstead Place, near 
 Sevenoaks, 231, 242. 
 
 CHISLEHURST, 65, 229. 
 Population, 7,429. 
 
 Station: S.E.K, 
 
 Hotels: Bull (near ch.); 
 Crown and Bickle.u Arms 
 (near sta.) ; Tiger's Head. 
 
 CHISLEHURST — contd. 
 
 Churches: Parish Ch. 
 and Ch. of the Annunciation ; 
 Rom. Cath. 
 
 Camden Place (formerly 
 residence of Napoleon 111.) 
 now Golf Club House : Frog- 
 nal (Lady Sydney). 
 
 St. George's Hall: li- 
 brary, Ch. Lane. 
 
 The Common : Prince 
 Imperial Monument. 
 
 Golf: 18 hole course in 
 Camden Park. 
 
 Post Offices : Central, 
 Chislehurst West, Lower 
 Camden, Whitehorse Hill. 
 
 Chislet Church, 160. 
 
 Chrysome, meaning of, 176. 
 
 churchfield, 193. 
 
 Cinque Ports, 59. 
 
 — , first Warden of, 59. 
 
 [City Canal], 5. 
 
 Clapper-napper's Hole,legend, 
 189. 
 
 Clarence, Thomas, Luke of, 
 
 133- 
 — Fort, 191. 
 
 Cleves, Anne of, 7, 25, 75, 
 169. 
 
 Cliff, St. Margaret at, ch., 
 272. 
 
 Clifftown, 23. 
 
 Cloveshoo, supposed site, 190. 
 
 [Coalhouse Point], fortifica- 
 tions, 22. 
 
 COBHAM, 94. Population, 
 806. 
 
 Station: Sole St., 1 m. 
 B.-W. j 5 m, from Rochester ; 
 5 m. from Gravesend. 
 
 Post Office in the village. 
 
 Church. 
 
 Cobham Hall : Open 
 Fridays ; tickets, i.v. (sold at 
 Rochester, Gravesend, and 
 Cobham). List of pictures 
 (MS.) to be obtained at the 
 Hall. 
 
 Cobham College. 
 
 Cobham Park : 7 m. 
 
 round ; Heronry. 
 
 Cobham Hall, 90, 94. 
 Cockleshell Bank, 189. 
 
 Coffin Stone, the, near Ayles- 
 ford, 196. 
 
 COLDRED, ch., 157. 
 
 Coldrum Farm, cromlech, 208. 
 
 COLIGNY, Cardinal, 131. 
 
 Collier's Hill, 37. 
 
 Collingwood, Hawkhurst, 255. 
 
 Combe Bank, park, 243. 
 
 Combwell, site of the priory 
 of, 253. 
 
 COMMERCIAL DOCKS, 5. 
 
 Conrad, Prior, 117. 
 
 Copt Point, geology, 45. 
 
 Cornhill, coast-guard station, 
 273- 
 
 [Corrinj-hani], 22. 
 
 Cosenton, springs, 195. 
 
 COTTERELS, the, in Sheppey, 
 263. 
 
 Coursehorne Manor, Cran- 
 brook, 254. 
 
 COURT- AT-STREET, 37. 
 
 CO URTENA Y, Abp., 72, 198. 
 
 — , Sir W., 1 13. 
 
 COWDEX, 30. 
 
 COWLING, 190. 
 
 Coxheath camp, 210, 
 
 CRANBROOK, 253. Popu- 
 lation, 3,949. 
 
 Station: S.E.R., i£ mile 
 from town. 
 
 Vestry Hall : Literary 
 Club. 
 
 Hotels : Bull ; George, 
 
 Cranmer, Abp., 176, 213, 
 232, 243 ; memorial of, at 
 bekesbourne, 153. 
 
 Cray, the river, 16, 70, 187, 
 230. 
 
 Cray, St. Mary, ch., brasses, 
 69. 
 
 — , Foots, ch., 70. 
 — , North, 70. 
 
 — , PAUL'S, ch., 70. 
 Cray ford, 186. 
 
284 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Crockham Hill, 244. 
 
 Crog DICK, or ' Dyke,' Shep- 
 pey, 267. 
 
 Cromlechs in Addington 
 Park, 207, 208. 
 
 Cromwell, Oliver, 65. 
 
 Crossness, drainage works, 15. 
 
 [Crow Stone, the], 22. 
 
 Crutched friars, their first 
 house in England, 34. 
 
 Cuckold's Point, 5, 181. 
 
 Cudham, ch., woods, 69. 
 
 CUXTON, 291. 
 
 D. 
 
 [Dagenham Breach], 15. 
 
 Danefield, Lower, in Hartlip, 
 104. 
 
 Dane Pits, 271. 
 
 Danes' Banks, near Chartham, 
 216. 
 
 — Field, 104. 
 
 [Danes' Hole], 18. 21. 
 
 Danson Hill, 186. 
 
 Darenth River, 16, 243 ; its 
 salmon fishery, 71. 
 
 DARENTH, ch., 71 ; barrows 
 and earthworks, 72. 
 
 Dargate, 113. 
 
 DARTFORD, 187. Popula- 
 tion, 18,644. 
 
 Station: S.E.&C.E., N. 
 of town. No refreshments. 
 
 Omnibuses : To and from 
 Farningham three times 
 daily. 
 
 Hotel : Bull, in centre of 
 town, near the Church. 
 
 Post Office : High St. 
 
 Banks : London County, 
 12, High Street.; Martin's. 
 
 Market : Saturdays. 
 
 Golf: g hole course at 
 Wilmington. 
 
 Dartford Creek, 26. 
 
 — Heath, caves, 188. 
 
 Daundelyon, gateway, 226. 
 DAVINGTON, III. 
 
 DEAL (and WALMER), 
 170. Population, Deal, 
 10,581; Walmer, 5,248. 
 
 Stations: Central Station; 
 Walmer Station (W. of 
 Walmer). 
 
 Pier : At Deal. 
 
 Hotels : Deal House (near 
 Pier) ; North Star ; Black 
 Horse ; Antwerp ; Claren- 
 don (F. and C.) ; Royal ; 
 Beach House (temperance) ; 
 W oodfall (private). 
 
 Post Offices : Park St., 
 Deal ; Walmer Rd. ; and 
 Upper Walmer. 
 
 St. George's Public 
 Rooms. 
 
 Cinque Ports Golf 
 Club. 
 
 Clubs : Union (near 
 Castle); Wellington (near 
 
 Pier). V 
 
 Golf: 18 hole course. 
 
 Deal and Sandown Castles. 
 
 DEAL to Dover, main road, 
 259; coast road, 268, 273. 
 
 Denge (or Dunge) Marsh, 
 275, 277- 
 
 Denne Hill, ancient intrench- 
 ments, 155. 
 
 DEPTFOED, 5 ; Cattle Mar- 
 ket, 6 ; hospitals, churches, 
 
 — Creek, 5. 
 
 Denstrood, 113. 
 
 DETLING, ch., cross, 205. 
 
 Dickens, Charles, 97; quo- 
 tations from, 95, 101, 261. 
 
 DlTTON, 206. 
 
 DOCKS : Blackwall, 13; Chat- 
 ham, 97; London, 4; North- 
 fleet, 18 ; Sheerness, 264 ; 
 Woolwich, 13 ; Seabrook, 38. 
 
 DODDINGTON, ch., 108, 250. 
 
 [Dogs, Isle of], 6. 
 Dominicans, 146. 
 DOUR, the river, 158. 
 
 DOVER, 50, 158. Popula- 
 tion, 41,794. 
 
 Stations: S.E.&C.R.— 
 Town Station adjoining Lord 
 
 DOVER— con td. 
 
 Warden Hotel (refresh- 
 merits) ; Harbour Station, 
 Strond St. (refreshments) ; 
 Priory Station, near the 
 Priory. 
 
 Steam Service to Calais 
 four times daily ; to Ostend 
 thrice daily. Offices at the 
 stations, or near the harbour. 
 
 Piers: Admiralty P., S.E. 
 of town ; Promenade P., Ma- 
 rine Parade ; East Pier (be- 
 gun 1894) now being con- 
 structed. 
 
 Harbour : Between Espla- 
 nade and Admiralty Pier. 
 Ferry across id. ; Promenade 
 on N. side. 
 
 Trams : A splendid mu- 
 nicipal system of electric 
 tramways runs through the 
 main streets of the town. 
 The fare is id. for any dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Omnibus to St.Margaret's, 
 from Castle St. (daily), 4 p.m. 
 
 Carriage Fares : Station 
 to Castle or Shakes neare Cliff", 
 3*. or 2S. ; to Archcliff Fort, 
 is. 6d. or is. 
 
 Hotels : Lord Warden 
 (managed by the Gordon Ho- 
 tels Co.), close to the pier, 
 good ; Dover Castle, also 
 close to the pier ; Grand, on 
 Esplanade ; Shakespeare ; Es- 
 planade; King's Head; 
 Metropole (late Royal Oak), 
 near St. Mary's ch. ; Bur- 
 lington, opened 1897, very 
 good ; Edinburgh ; and 
 several other boarding 
 houses. 
 
 Chief Post Office : Mar- 
 ket Place. 
 
 Banks: London and Coun- 
 ty, King St. ; National Pro- 
 vincial^ew Bridge; Lloyd's, 
 Cannon St. ; Capital # 
 Counties. 
 
 Maison Dieu and Town 
 Hall (adjoining) in High St. 
 
 Theatre : The Tivoli, in 
 Snargate St. 
 
 Museum: In Market Place. 
 Open daily (except Thurs- 
 day), 10 to 4 in winter, 10 to 
 5 in summer ; open till 9 on 
 Wednesdays. 
 
 Clubs : Royal Cinque 
 Ports Yacht Club, Granville, 
 Carlton, Dover. 
 
 Public Park : On hill N. 
 of the town. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 285 
 
 DOVER — contd. 
 
 Library and Reading 
 Room, Granville Gardens, or 
 at the Institute in Biggin 
 St. 
 
 Golf: Course behind 
 Castle. 
 
 POVER,history,5o; churches, 
 54, 55; Maison Dieu, 56; 
 iiiuseura,56;WesternHeigiits, 
 57 ; harbour, 57 ; excursions, 
 59. 273- 
 
 — CASTLE, conditions of 
 admission, 51 ; Roman pha- 
 ros, 52; eh. of St. Mary, 
 towers, 52 ; keep,53 ; Arthur's 
 Hall, 54 ; Artillery Barracks, 
 54 ; casemates, 54 ; boatmen, 
 270. 
 
 — PRIORY, 55, 158. 
 DOWNE, 69. 
 DOWNS, 269. 
 
 Drake, Sir F., 6, 10, 51. 
 
 Draw-pits, 228. 
 
 Druidical Remains near 
 Maidstone, 195, 207, 208. 
 
 DjjBRM, now Dover, 50. 
 
 DUNGEBEACH, 277; Dunge- 
 marsh, hares, wild flowers, 
 honey, 277. 
 
 DUN GEN ESS, 278. 
 
 Dunkirk, ville of, 113. 
 
 DUNSTAN (St.), charter in his 
 handwriting, 137, 175; his 
 shrine opened by Abp. War- 
 ham, 124. 
 
 DUNSTAN'S (St.) ch., Canter- 
 bury, 114, 146; head of Sir 
 Thomas More, 146. 
 
 DXJNTON GREEN, 230. 
 
 Duppa, Bp. Brian, birthplace, 
 177- 
 
 Durolevum, 111. 
 
 Durovernum, 115. 
 
 DUTCH, battles with the, in 
 the Medway, 99, 261 ; off the 
 North Foreland, 227 ; in the 
 Thames, 99. 
 
 Dutch Fleet off Dover, 
 51 ; capture of Sheernessby, 
 265. 
 
 DYMCHURCH, 274. 
 
 — IVall, 276. 
 
 E. 
 
 Earl's Sluice, Rotherhithe, 5. 
 
 Earthworks, British, in Kent 
 [6]. 
 
 Eastbridge, ruined chapel, 
 277. 
 
 Eastchurch, Ch., 266. 
 [East India Docks], 13. 
 Eastry, 169. 
 
 — Court, 1 69. 
 
 Eashvear Bay, shore of, 49. 
 
 Eastwell, ch., 212. 
 
 Ebbe's Fleet, scene of the 
 landing of St. Augustine, 
 220. 
 
 — Monument, 223. 
 
 EDENBRIDGE, 24. Popu- 
 lation, 2,546. 
 
 Stations : on S.E. & C.R. 
 and L.B.S.C.R. 
 
 Hotel: Albion (fishing). 
 
 Oddfellows' Hall. 
 
 Conveyance from Albion 
 to Hever, Penshurst, Chid- 
 dingstone. 
 
 Eden Park, 65. 
 Edward I., 219. 
 
 — III., 179, 264. 
 
 — IV., 126, 179, 76. 
 
 — VI., 7. 
 
 — PRINCE (afterwards Ed- 
 ward I.), 50. See Edward I. 
 
 — the Black Prince, 130, 
 
 Egerton, ch. 35, 249. 
 ELHAM, ch., 48. 
 
 — Valley railway, 47, 1 14. 
 
 ELIZABETH, Queen, 6, 7 ; her 
 progresses, 75, 91, 162, 249, 
 252 ; 1 pocket pistol,' 54. 
 
 Elm Hill, 255. 
 
 ELMLEY, Isle of, 267. 
 
 Elmstead, ch., 45. 
 
 Eltham, 179, 180, 185. 
 
 Erasmus, 37, 108, 118, 134, 
 149. 
 
 ERITH, 15, 186. Popula- 
 tion, 25,296. 
 
 Station: S.E.R. 
 
 Ernulf, Prior of Canterbury 
 and Bp. of Rochester, 84, 
 134- 
 
 E STRIA, Prior Henry de, 123. 
 
 ETHELBERT, King, 141, 175, 
 220. 
 
 Eustace, Abbot of Flai, 211. 
 EWELL, 158. 
 — , near Lenham, 248. 
 EYNSFORD, ch., 71, 240. 
 Eyteham, 237 ; see Ightham. 
 EY THORN E, 157. 
 
 F. 
 
 Fairford, ch., 277. 
 
 Fairlawn, near Tonbridge, 
 239- 
 
 Fair Rosamond's Tower, 
 38. 
 
 FARLEIGH, East, 64. 
 — West, 64. 
 Farnborough, 67, 68. 
 Farningham Road, 70. 
 
 FARNINGHAM VIL- 
 LAGE, 244. Population, 
 1328. 
 
 Inn : Lion, very good. 
 
 Conveyances to Lulling- 
 stone Park (2 m.), and 
 Darenth ch. (3 m.). 
 
 Trout fishing. 
 
 FAVERSHAM, 108. Popu- 
 lation, 11,290. 
 
 Station: S.E.&C.R., Sta- 
 tion Rd. Refreshment room. 
 
 Hotels : Ship, Market 
 Place ; Railway, Preston St. 
 
 Post Office : Market 
 Place. 
 
 Banks : London # County; 
 Union of London and Smith's. 
 
 Church: monuments and 
 paintings. 
 
286 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 FAVERSHAM — contd. 
 Abbey : small portions re- 
 
 Gunpowder Factories 
 
 at Oare. 
 
 Stone Church (remains) : 
 London Rd., i£ m. W. of 
 town. 
 
 Davington Priory: N.W. 
 
 of town. 
 
 Institute and Reading 
 Room, East St. 
 
 Recreation Ground : 
 
 Near Station. 
 
 Blean Woods : About 4 
 m. E. of town. 
 
 FAVERSHAM JUNCTION, 
 Abbey, ch., 108. 
 
 Fawkham, 72. 
 
 Fiddlers' Reach, 18. 
 
 Finchcocks, 253. 
 
 Fisheries, oyster, 73, 105, 
 
 165, 173; head-quarters of 
 the Kentish, 263, 264, 265. 
 
 Fishponds Woods, 113. 
 
 FOLKESTONE, 43. Popu- 
 lation, 30,650. 
 
 Stations: S.E. & C.B.- 
 
 Harbour ; Junction (N.E. of 
 town) ; Central Station (near 
 Lees and Exhibition Build- 
 ing). 
 
 Omnibus from Town Hall 
 toHythe, hourly, from 10.30. 
 
 Steam Service to Bou- 
 logne, twice daily. 
 
 Hotels : Pavilion, near 
 Harbour, good, table d'hote 
 every day, a fixed scale of 
 prices hung in every room ; 
 Hotel Metropole, on Lees, 
 very large and commodious, 
 under the management of 
 the Gordon Hotels Co. ; Lees 
 (on the Lees) ; W. Cliff, well 
 situated ; Wampach (near 
 Radnor Park); Bath (pri- 
 vate) ; Pier (private) ; Cen- 
 tral Refreshment Rooms, 
 South St., Sandgate Rd. ; 
 Queen's Hotel (central) ; Alex- 
 andra. 
 
 Radnor Club : Sandgate 
 Rd. 
 
 Concert Hall & Theatre 
 
 (formerly Exhibition). 
 
 F O LKE S T O NE — contd. 
 Lift : Near the new 
 Promenade Pier, below the 
 Lees. 
 
 Post Office : 
 
 Rd. 
 
 Sandgate 
 
 Banks: National Provin- 
 cial, Sandgate Rd. ; Capital 
 # Counties ; Lloyd's ; London, 
 City Sf Midland. 
 
 Free Library and Mu- 
 seum, Grace Hill. 
 BathingEstablishment: 
 
 Below the Lees. 
 
 Parks : Radnor Park ; 
 Pleasure Gardens (late Ex- 
 hibition). 
 
 The Warren : Eastwear 
 Bay ; excursions. 
 
 Golf : At Broadmead 
 Farm, \ m. from Central 
 Station. 
 
 FOLKESTONE HARBOUR, 
 43 ; ch., brass, 43 ; Castle, 
 44 ; piers, 44 ; geology, walks, 
 45 ; excursions, 46. 
 
 — Junction, 43. 
 
 Foots Cray, 70. 
 
 Ford combe Green, 30. 
 
 Ford Valley viaduct, 43. 
 
 FORDWICH, 160. 
 
 FORELAND, North, light- 
 house,battles with the Dutch, 
 227. 
 
 — , South, lighthouses, electric 
 light, 272. 
 
 Forest of blean, 113. 
 
 Forsham,in Rolvenden, 255. 
 
 [Foulness Island], 23. 
 
 FRANCISCANS, their estab- 
 lishment at Canterbury, 147. 
 
 Franks, manor-house, 71. 
 
 Fredville Park, 154. 
 
 Frindsbury, 97. 
 
 Frinsted, ch., 247. 
 
 Frittenden, ch., 34. 
 
 Frognal, 230. 
 
 G. 
 
 GAD'S HILL, 96. 
 
 — PLACE, 97. 
 Gavelkind, customs of, [3]. 
 Geology of Kent, [15]. 
 George IV., 7. 
 
 I GILLINGHAM, 101. 
 
 GILLINGHAM Fort, 261. 
 
 G 1 ETON IN Ash, Saxon ceme- 
 tery, 168. 
 
 Glanville, Bp., 89. 
 
 GLASSENBURY, near Cran- 
 brook, 256. 
 
 Goddard's Castle, 245. 
 
 GODINTON, 36, 250. 
 
 GODMERSHAM, 21 A, 215. 
 
 GOLDSTONE, Prior, 121. 
 
 Goodnestone, near Faver- 
 sham, ch., 173. 
 
 — , near Adisham, ch., brass, 
 154- 
 
 Goodwin Sands, their al- 
 leged cause, 256; extent, 
 beacons, light-ships, memor- 
 able shipwrecks, 269, 270; 
 the hovellers, 270. 
 
 Gore Court, Tunstall, 106. 
 
 Gorsley Wood, 151. 
 
 GOUDHURST, 252; from 
 Pluckley, 35. Population, 
 2,725. 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.R. at 
 Hope Mill, 1 mile from G. 
 
 Hotels (small) : Church 
 House ; Railway. 
 
 GRAIN, Isle of, 97, 265. 
 
 Grange, near Gillingham, de- 
 secrated chapel, 102. 
 
 Graven ey, 173. 
 
 GRAVESEND, 19. Popula- 
 tion, 27,196. 
 
 Stations: S.E. & C.R.— 
 
 Central Station for Sheer- 
 ness, London (Charing Cross) 
 via Dartford, Chatham, 
 Maidstone ; West St. Station 
 for London (Victoria) via 
 Bromley ; L. T.& S.R.— Town 
 Pier for Southend and Shoe- 
 buryness, London (Fen- 
 church St.) via Tilbury and 
 Purfleet. Refreshments only 
 at the Central Station. 
 
 Electric Trams at fre- 
 quent intervals to North- 
 fleet, Milton, &c. 
 
 Steamers: From Town 
 Pier to Tilbury (in connexion 
 with the L.T. and S. Rail- 
 way), connecting with service 
 
INDEX. 
 
 287 
 
 GRAVESEND-conW. 
 
 to Margate ; from West Pier 
 and Rosherville Pier to 
 London (in summer) ; from 
 Rosherville and West Pier to 
 Sheerness and Southend (in 
 summer) daily; also (via 
 Tilbury) to Clacton, Har- 
 wich, Ramsgate, and Bou- 
 logne, daily in summer. 
 
 Hotels : Clarendon ; Mitre ; 
 Falcon ; Restaurant, near 
 Town Hall. 
 
 Post Office : Milton Rd. 
 
 Banks : London and 
 County, 24, High St. ; London 
 and Provincial, 16, High St. 
 
 Golf Club. 
 
 Clifton Baths. 
 
 Market on Saturday. 
 
 Excursions : Springhead 
 (Gardens), 2 m. ; Southfleet 
 (ch. and village), 3 m. 
 
 GRAVESEND, steamers and 
 railway to, 3, 19, 190; the 
 town, 19, 20. 
 
 GRAVESEND, de, bishops of 
 the family, 73. 
 
 [GRAY'S THURROCK], 18. 
 
 Green hithe, 18, 188. 
 
 Green Street Green, 69, 
 189. 
 
 Greenway Court, near Leeds, 
 247. 
 
 GREENWICH (now treated 
 as part of London), 7. Popu- 
 lation, 95,770. (Metropolitan 
 Borough.) 
 
 Stations : S.E. & C.R.— 
 
 Greenwich Park Station for 
 Victoria and Crystal Palace 
 via Nunhead ; Greenwich Rd. 
 and Maze Hill Stations for 
 London (Charing Cross), 
 Woolwich, &c. 
 
 Steamers : To London 
 (probably) at frequent inter- 
 vals in summer. From 
 Greenwich to North Green- 
 wich (G.E.Rly.) frequently, 
 between 5 a.m. and 1 1 p.m. 
 
 Hotels : Ship ; Crown and 
 Sceptre; Green Man. 
 
 Post Office : Nelson St. 
 
 Bank: London and County, 
 Church St. ; London Pro- 
 vincial, 213 Trafalgar Road. 
 
 [Kent, vi. 04.] 
 
 GREENWICH-cohW. 
 
 Greenwicn Park : 200 
 
 acres. 
 
 Royal Observatory 
 
 (Closed to the public.) 
 
 Golf Club: 93, Blackheath 
 Hill. V 
 
 GREENWICH, steamer and 
 railway to, 3 ; history, 7 ; 
 Palace, 7 ; Hospital, 8 ; mu- 
 seum, 10 ; Park, 11; Obser- 
 vatory, 11; almshouses, 12; 
 church, 13. 
 
 — Hospital, its foundation, 8 ; 
 the Painted Hall, 9 ; chapel, 
 10. 
 
 — PARK, 11; Observatory, 
 11, 12. 
 
 1 Greycoats of Kent,' their 
 former influence, 254. 
 
 GROOMBRIDGE, 30. 
 
 GROVE FERRY, 160. Po- 
 pulation (with Chislet), 
 1,019. 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.R. 
 
 Boats : from Northgate, 
 Canterbury. 
 
 Inn, at Ferry ; Refresh- 
 ments. 
 
 Strawberries : excellent, 
 in season from adjacent gar- 
 dens. 
 
 Chislet Ch. : about 1 m. 
 north. 
 
 GROVE PARK STATION, 
 228. 
 
 GUESTLING, a stream at 
 Sandwich, 162. 
 
 — , Court of, 61. 
 
 Guildford Level, 275. 
 
 GUILDFORD, East, 277. 
 
 GUSTON, 271. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hackendown banks, 227. 
 HACKINGTON, ch., 158. 
 [Hadleigh Castle], 22. 
 
 Hallow, 33, 239. 
 
 HALDEN, HIGH, 257. 
 
 Hales Place, Carmelite 
 convent, 159. 
 
 — , Tenterden, 257. 
 
 IlALLING, Bp.'s palace, 192. 
 
 Hall Place, near Leigh, 26. 
 
 — , Bexley, 70. 
 
 — , Canterbury, 150. 
 
 HALSTEAD, 230. 
 
 Halstow, 103. 
 
 — , High, ch., 97. 
 
 HAM STREET, 259. 
 
 HAMPTON-ON-SEA, 174. 
 
 HARBLEDOWN, 217; ch. 
 and hospital, 149; Dean 
 Colet and Erasmus at, 149. 
 
 HARDRES, Upper, ch., 151. 
 
 HARRIETSHAM, 2yj. 
 
 Hartlip, 104. 
 
 II ARTY, Isle of, 267. 
 IlASTINGLEIGH, ch., 37. 
 Haven, the Sandwich, 161. 
 
 HAWKHURST,2 55 . Popu- 
 lation, 3,274. 
 
 Station i S.E. & CP., 1 
 mile distant. 
 
 Hotels : IiO'/al Oak ; Eight 
 Bell*. 
 
 Lecture Hall ; Reading 
 Room. 
 
 Bodiam Castle. 5 m. 
 
 Hawkshill Close, 271. 
 
 Hay Cliff, near Dover, 57. 
 
 HAYES, 67. 
 
 — Common, 67. 
 
 HEADCORN, 34. 
 
 Hemsted Park, Benenden, 25. 
 
 HEN GIST AND Horsa, land- 
 ing-place of, doubtful, 223. 
 
 1IENGR0 VE, remains of chapel , 
 226. 
 
 Henrietta Maria, 7, 51, 
 I 4 I » i55. 
 
 x 3 
 
288 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Henry II., 53, 112, 135. 
 
 — HI, 56. 
 
 — IV., 131, 264. 
 
 — V., 105, 178. 
 
 — VI., 210. 
 
 — VI L, 178. 
 
 — VIII., 7, 24,51, 58, 7S i5*> 
 170, 171, 178, 213. 
 
 Hensbrook, in Sheppey.f ossils, 
 262. 
 Hereson, 224. 
 HERNE, 174. 
 
 HERNE BAY, 23, 160, 174. 
 Population, 6,726. 
 
 Station: S.E. & C.R. 
 
 Omnibuses to and from 
 Canterbury daily (from New 
 Dolphin or Diver's Arms). 
 
 Hotels: Dolphin; Grand; 
 Connaught; Diver's Arms; 
 Ship ; Pier. 
 
 Piers. 
 
 Public Baths. 
 
 Heme Bay Club : St. 
 
 George's Parade. 
 
 Reading and Billiard 
 rooms. 
 
 Golf: At Eddington \ m. 
 from Station. 
 
 Athletic Club; Rowing 
 Club. 
 
 Banks : London County ; 
 Parr's. 
 
 Excursions : Heme, 2 m ; 
 Reculvers, 6 m. 
 
 HEBNHILL, 114. 
 Heronden Court, Tenterden, 
 257. 
 
 HEVER, 24. Population, 
 73i. 
 
 Station (L.B.S.C. Rly.) 
 about 1 mile from village. 
 
 Inn : King Henry VIII., on 
 road to Edenbridge. 
 
 Hever Castle : Entirely 
 closed to the public. 
 
 High am, 22, 190. 
 
 HiGHGATE, near Hawkhurst, 
 255. 
 
 HlLDENBOBOUGH, 239. 
 
 HlNXHILL, 211. 
 Hoath, 176. 
 
 Holborough, Roman barrow, 
 192. 
 
 [Hole, or Thames Haven], 22. 
 
 Hollies, The, 70. 
 
 HOLLINGBOURNE, 245. 
 
 Holm stone, the, on Dunge 
 Marsh, 277. 
 
 Hoi wood Park, camp, 61. 
 
 H00, hundred, 190. 
 
 — , Prior William de, 87. 
 
 — , ST. Maby, 97. 
 
 — , St. Webbubgh, 97. 
 
 Hope, the, the last reach of 
 the Thames, 22, 99. 
 
 Hop-gardens, [10-14], 61. 
 
 HOBNE, Bp., 180. 
 
 Horn Fair, 181. 
 
 HOBSMONDEN, 250. 
 
 HOBTON, near Chartham, ch., 
 216. 
 
 — KlBBY, 71. 
 — , MONK'S, 42. 
 
 — Pabk, 42. 
 
 — PBIOBY, remains, 42. 
 Hothfield Place, 36. 
 Hougham, 158. 
 Hovellers, 270. 
 Howletts, fine cedars, 153. 
 HOWLEY, Abp., 127. 
 HUBEBT WALTEB, Abp., 132, 
 
 139- 
 
 HUCKINGE, 248. 
 HUNTON, 62. 
 
 Hubst House, 276. 
 
 — WOODS, 63. 
 
 HYTHE, 38. Population, 
 5,557- 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.R., N.E. 
 
 of town. 
 
 HYTHE— conta. 
 
 Omnibuses from Swan 
 Hotel meet trains. To Sand- 
 gate and Folkestone, from 
 High St., every £ hour in 
 summer ; every hour in win- 
 ter. Trams to Sandgate 
 (S.E.R.) every £ hour in 
 summer ; hourly in winter. 
 
 Hotels : Seabrook (on 
 beach), belonging to the 
 S.E. Rly. Co., first class, 
 comfortable; Swan (in town); 
 White Hart; Red Lion (F. 
 & C.) ; Pier ; Connaught. 
 
 BathingEstablishment: 
 
 Near the sea. 
 
 Post Office: 148, High 
 St. 
 
 Bank: London $ County, 
 
 Institute : Entertain- 
 ments, &c, Theatre St. 
 
 School of Musketry. 
 
 Golf Links (on hill), 18 
 holes. 
 
 HYTHE to New Romney, 
 road, 274. 
 
 — , Small, estuary to Rye, 
 257. 
 
 — West, remains of ch., 273. 
 
 I. 
 
 ICKHAM, 153. 
 
 IDE Hill, fine prospect, 235. 
 Iden Manor, 34. 
 Idsford Hill, 45. 
 Iffin's Wood, 217. 
 
 IGHTHAM, 237. 
 
 — Mote, 238. Open to public 
 on Fridays from 2 to 6. 
 Admission 6d. 
 
 IGUANOBON QUABBY, near 
 Maidstone, 201. 
 
 INGLETHOBPE, Bp., tomb, 89. 
 
 Ingress Abbey, 18. 
 
 [Isle of Dogs], 6. 
 
 Isle of Gbain, 97, 265. 
 
 ivychubch, 277. 
 
 J. 
 
 James L, 7, 76, 234. 
 — II. 76, 79, in, 267. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 289 
 
 Jo ux, King, 47, 57, 180. 
 
 JOHN'S (St.), stat., 177. 
 
 Joyden's Wood, Roman re- 
 mains, 188. 
 
 Justus, first Bp. of Eochester, 
 74. 
 
 K. 
 
 [Katuerine's (St.) Docks], 4. 
 
 Kearsney, 158, 273. 
 
 <— Abbey, 158. 
 
 Kelsey Park, 65. 
 
 Kempe, Abp., 133, ail. 
 
 Kemsing, 242. 
 
 Kemsley Down, Castle Rough 
 on, 106. 
 
 Kenardington, 257, 259. 
 
 Kennington, 259. 
 
 Kent House, 64. 
 
 Keston, 68. 
 
 Keycol Hill, 104. 
 
 Kiln down, 253. 
 
 King's Bridge, Sheppey, 263. 
 
 Kingsdown, near Farning- 
 ham, 244. 
 
 — near Walmer, 268. 
 
 Kingsgate, near Margate, 227. 
 
 KlNGSTONE, 49. 
 
 Kippington, near Sevenoaks, 
 235- 
 
 KIT'S COITY HOUSE, 
 
 i95. 
 
 Station: Nearest, Ayles- 
 ford, about 2 m. May be 
 reached from Maidstone, via 
 Boxley, about 5 m. 
 
 Inns : There are two toler- 
 ably good country inns here, 
 The Upper and The Lower Bell, 
 by the side of the Maidstone 
 road. 
 
 The Cromlech. 
 
 The Countless Stones. 
 
 The Coffin Stone. 
 
 — pits, 196. 
 
 Knights' Bottom, near 
 Dover, 273. 
 
 Knockholt Beeches, 230; 
 
 ch., 230. 
 
 KNOLE PARK, 231. 
 
 Adjoining Sevenoaks, S.E. 
 of town ; about equi-distant 
 from Bat and Ball, and 
 Tub's Hill Stations. 
 
 Park: Always open. 
 
 House : Open on Fridays 
 and Bank Holidays 10 a.m. 
 to 5 p.m., and Thursday and 
 Saturday 2 to 5 p.m. Tickets 
 2.v. at the Lodge. 
 
 Pictures : No complete 
 catalogue published. 
 
 Knowlton Park, 154. 
 
 L. 
 
 LAMBARDE, the Kentish topo- 
 grapher, almshouse founded 
 ky> !3 5 on Folkestone, 43 ; 
 on Romney Marsh, 275 ; 
 monument, 13, 231. 
 
 LAMBERHURST, 251. 
 Population, 1,386. 
 
 Stations : nearest, Frant 
 and Goudhurst, S.E. & C.R. 
 
 Hotels : Chequers ; George. 
 
 Bayham Abbey (new), 
 and Bayham Abbey Ruins 
 (which see). Scotney Castle 
 (private). 
 
 Golf Course. 
 
 Lamorbey, 70. 
 
 la Mouscry, 33. 
 
 Lancup well, Penshurst, 29. 
 
 LAN FRANC, Abp., 42, 116,117, 
 156, 205. 
 
 LANGDON, East, 271. 
 
 — , West, ruins of ch., 271. 
 
 Langley Park, 65. 
 
 Langridge, in Hailing, 192. 
 
 LANGTON, Abp., 128, 133. 
 
 Larkfield, near Maidstone, 
 209. 
 
 [Lea, the, at Bow Creek], 13. 
 Leaveland, ch., 259. 
 
 LEE, near Blackheath, 179. 
 
 — Priory, 153. 
 Leeds Castle, 246. 
 
 — Church, 247. 
 
 — Priory, 24.7. 
 
 Lees Court, Sheldwich, 260. 
 
 Le Hangre, 38. 
 
 [Leigh, in Essex], 22. 
 
 — , near Penshurst, brass, 26. 
 
 Len, source of the, 246, 248. 
 
 Lenham, 248. 
 
 Lesnes Abbey, 185. 
 
 LEWISHAM JUNCTION, 
 177. 
 
 Lewisheath Manor, in Hors- 
 monden, 250. 
 
 Ley bourne Castle, 20. 
 
 Leysdown, 267 
 
 Lighthouses, on the Chap- 
 man Sand, 22 ; Dungeness, 
 278 ; North Foreland, 227 ; 
 South Foreland, 272. 
 
 Lightship, at the Nore, 28 ; 
 on the Goodwin Sands, 270. 
 
 Lillesden, in Hawkhurst, 255. 
 
 [Limehouse Pier], 5. 
 
 Linton, 34, 210. 
 
 LlTTLEBOURNE, 153. 
 Littlebrook, 18, 188. 
 Little Charlton, 249. 
 
 LITTLESTONE, 275. 
 
 Station : New Romney 
 (S.E. & C.R.) 
 
 Hotel : Littlestone Grand 
 Hotel. 
 
 Golf Links : 3 m. in ex- 
 tent. 
 
 Public Hall : Concerts, 
 &c. 
 
 New Romney : 1 m. dis- 
 tant. 
 
 Omnibuses : run between 
 R. and L. 
 
290 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 [Little Thubbock], 18. 
 
 LlUDHABD, Bp., 143. 
 
 Loniea, Earl Godwin's Kentish 
 lands, 269. 
 
 London Bridge Station, 
 24, 177, 228. 
 
 — WHARF, steamers from, 3. 
 
 ' London over the Border,' 13. 
 
 Lone Tree, legend, 273. 
 
 Longsole, ancient chapel, 196. 
 
 LOOSE, near Maidstone, 210. 
 
 LOSENHAM, in Newenden, 256. 
 
 LOUIS VII. of France, his 
 offering at Becket's shrine, 
 129. 
 
 Lowell Hill, Thanet, 225. 
 
 Lowy or Leuca of Tonbridge, 
 31. 
 
 LUDDESDOWN, 73, 192. 
 
 LULLINGSTONE, ch., 24 1 ; 
 castle, 241. 
 
 LYDD, 277. Population, 
 2,070. 
 
 Station: S.E.&C.E., on 
 branch from Appledore. 
 
 Hotels : George; Mail. 
 
 Dungeness Point: Light- 
 house, 4 m. S.E., by rail- 
 way, or path. 
 
 Artillery Camp. 
 
 Lydden, nailbourne, 158 ; 
 Spout, 49, 273. 
 
 LYMINGE, 47. Population, 
 004. 
 
 Station: S.E. & C.E. (El- 
 ham Valley line). 
 
 Inn : Coach and Horses, 
 small. 
 
 Refreshments supplied 
 by Rolfe, Baker. 
 
 Church » and remains, close 
 to Station. 
 
 Post Office : in village. 
 
 LYMINGE, nunnery, 47 ; ch., 
 47« 
 
 LYMNE, 41. Population, 
 537- 
 
 Stations: Nearest — West- 
 enhanger, i£ m. N. ; Hythe, 
 3 m. E. 
 
 Inn : County Members, 
 small. 
 
 Church. 
 
 Castle. 
 
 Roman Castrum. 
 
 Court-at-Street ruins, 2 
 m. N.W. 
 
 Shepway Cross. S m. 
 
 Post Office : in village. 
 
 LYN STEAD, 107. 
 
 M. 
 
 Madam's Court Hill, 235. 
 
 MAIDSTONE, 61, 197. 
 Population, 33,516. 
 
 Stations : — West Station, 
 S.W. of town, near river, and 
 Barracks Station, N.W., for 
 Paddock Wood, London 
 (Charing Cross) via Graves- 
 end and Dartford ; East Sta. 
 (near Sessions House) for 
 London (Victoria) via Shore- 
 ham and Bromley, Ashford. 
 
 Omnibuses: to Cranbrook, 
 from the Star, daily, 3.30; 
 to Sittingbourne, from the 
 Mitre, daily, 3.20; to Tenter- 
 den, from the Haunch of Veni- 
 son, daily, 3.30. 
 
 Hotels : Mitre, good ; Vic- 
 toria (F. and C); Bells 
 Queen's Head ; Royal Star. 
 
 Post Office: High St. 
 
 Banks : Lloyd's s London 
 and County; Union of London 
 and Smith's. 
 
 Clubs : County, West St. ; 
 Maidstone, Earl St. ; Con- 
 servative, Earl St. ; Liberal, 
 Stone St. 
 
 Markets: Thursday and 
 Saturday. 
 
 Museum and Library, 
 
 Faith St. 
 
 Church Institute and 
 
 Beading Booms, Union St. 
 
 Bentliff Art Gallery: 
 
 next Museum. 
 
 Golf : Course at Bearsted. 
 
 Mote Park : Cricket 
 Ground. 
 
 Perm en den Heath : im. 
 
 Maidstone Barracks, 196. 
 Malling, East, 206. 
 — , West, 206. 
 — Abbey, 206. 
 Mai mains, near Waldershare, 
 157. 
 
 Manston Court, 223. 
 Manufactures of Kent, [14]. 
 Mabden, ch., 34. 
 
 MARGARET'S (St.), 272. 
 
 Population, 889. 
 
 Station: nearest, Martin 
 Mill, 1 m. from Church; 2 
 from beach. 
 
 Hotels: Granville Arms s 
 CUffe ; Lanzarote, or Bay 
 Hotel, many apartments. 
 
 Golf: 9 hole course m. 
 from Station. 
 
 Church : fine Norman. 
 
 South Foreland Light- 
 house. 1 m. 
 
 Mabgabets (St.) Bay, 2J2. 
 
 MARGATE, 23, 177, 225. 
 Population, 23,118. 
 
 Stations: S.E.&C.B.— 
 West Margate Station and 
 East Margate Station for 
 Bamsgate Harbour, Chat- 
 ham and London. Margate 
 Sands Station for Bamsgate 
 Town, Canterbury, Deal and 
 Dover. 
 
 Steamers to London, daily 
 in summer (return 5s. and 
 4s.) ; at frequent intervals to 
 Bamsgate ; occasionally to 
 Boulogne. 
 
 Hotels : Cliftonville (under 
 the management of the Gor- 
 don Hotels Co.), well ar- 
 ranged in a good situation 
 on the cliff apart from the 
 town ; Metropole, opposite 
 the Jetty ; York ; Randolph ; 
 Queen's ; Cinque Ports ; Nay- 
 land Rock s Severn House ; 
 Station; King's Head; White 
 Hart ; Torriani's Restaurant, 
 Marine Drive and High 
 Street. 
 
 Lodgings are good and 
 plentiful. 
 
 Electric Trams to Broad- 
 stairs, Bamsgate, &c. 
 
 Post Office : Cecil Square. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 291 
 
 MARGATE— contd. 
 
 Banks : London $ County ; 
 Ltoyd's ; London, City and 
 Midland. 
 
 Church Institute and 
 
 Reading Room, Hawley Sq.. 
 
 Pier and Jetty. 
 
 Grotto : in cliff. 
 
 Golf: Course at Hengrove. 
 
 Baths: The Clifton; The 
 Marine. 
 
 Theatre : Hawley Sq. 
 
 Hall by the Sea, and 
 
 Zoological Gardens. 
 
 MARGATE, steamer and rail- 
 way to, 3, 23, 177, 225 ; general 
 character, 225. 
 
 — , East, 177. 
 
 Martello towers in Kent, 
 39, 45, 5o, 274. 
 
 — Tunnel, 50. 
 
 Martin Mill, 272. 
 
 Marti N'sfit.) Church, Can- 
 terbury, 143 ; font, 144. 
 
 Mary, Queen, 7. 
 
 — II., 8. 
 
 Mary's (St.) Island, 261. 
 Matfield Green, 34. 
 Med way, 64, 260. 
 Meopham, J 2. 
 Mepham, Abp., 132. 
 Mereworth, 63. 
 mersiiam, 36. 
 
 MERTON, Bp. Walter, 87. 
 Middle Park, 180. 
 Midley, ruined chapel, 277. 
 Mile Town, Sheerness, 264. 
 Milgate, 244. 
 Mi 11 wall Pier, 5. 
 
 Milsted Church, 248. 
 
 MILTON, near Canterbury, 
 eh., 216. 
 
 — , near Gravesend, ch., 20. 
 
 — Hall, 20. 
 
 — next Sittingbourne, ch., 
 105. 
 
 MINSTER, in Sheppey, 106, 
 265, 266. 
 
 MINSTER IN THANET 
 JUNCTION, 161, 216; ch., 
 216. 
 
 Mold ash, 212. 
 MONGEHAM, Great, 172. 
 MONK'S HORTON, 42. 
 MO N ETON, 221. 
 
 Montefiore Mausoleum, 
 224. 
 
 Montreal, near Sevenoaks, 
 231. 
 
 Morant's Court Hill, 235. 
 
 More, Sir A., 146. 
 
 Morton, Abp., 47, 134, 231, 
 272. 
 
 Mote, the, Ightham, 238. 
 
 — , the, near Maidstone, 201. 
 
 Mottenden, the friars of, 34. 
 
 Mount Ephraim, Hernlrill, 
 114. 
 
 Mount Mascall, 70. 
 Mount Morris, 42. 
 
 N. 
 
 Napoleon HI. at Chisle- 
 hurst, 228. 
 
 Nash Court, near Margate, 
 227. 
 
 — , near Faversham, 112. 
 
 Nettlested, 63. 
 
 Newchurch, 276. 
 
 NEW CROSS, 3, 24, 177, 228. 
 
 NEWENDEN, 256. 
 
 NEWINGTON, 104. 
 
 — , near Hythe, 46. 
 
 Nicholas- at- Wade (St.), 23, 
 218; ch., 218, 221 ; brass, 221. 
 
 NONINGTON, Ch., 155. 
 
 NORE SAND, lightship, 23. 
 
 Norfolk College, Green- 
 wich, 12. 
 
 northbourne, 172. 
 North Cra?, 70. 
 
 NORTHFLEET, j8, 190. 
 Population, 12,906. 
 
 Station : on B.E. & C.R. 
 
 Inn: Indian Arms, small. 
 
 Huggens College. 
 
 NORTHFLEET, the, 274. 
 NORTHWODE, 266. 
 
 [NORTH WOOLWICH], 14. 
 
 No viomagus, probable site of, 
 68. 
 
 Nunnery Fields, 145. 
 NURSTEAD, 68. 
 
 O. 
 
 OARE, 112. 
 
 Oast-houses, [13]. 
 0D0, Abp., 117. 
 
 — of Bayeux, 205. 
 Offham, 207. 
 
 — Green, quintain, 207. 
 
 Oldborough, in Ightham, 237. 
 
 Oldbury Hill, 237. 
 
 Organ at Canterbury Cathe- 
 dral, 123. 
 
 Orgarswick, ruined chapel, 
 277. 
 
 Orpington, 70, 230. 
 
 — Priory, 230. 
 Osengal Hill, 221, 223. 
 
 OSPRINGE, Maison Dieu at, 
 112. 
 
 Otford, 241. 
 
 — , near Maidstone, 244. 
 
 — Junction, 241. 
 Otter Cottage, 46. 
 
 Otterden, near Lenham, 
 249. 
 
 Otterham Creek, 104, 261. 
 Oxenhoath, 63. 
 OXNEY, 259. 
 
 — Isle, 259. 
 
 — , near Dover, 271. 
 OXTED, 24. 
 
292 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Oyster-Fisheries, 22, 23, 
 73, 105, 165, 173, 263, 264, 
 265. 
 
 P. 
 
 Paddlesworth, ch., 48. 
 
 PADDOCK WOOD, 61. 
 
 Church: St. Andrew's. 
 
 Station : S.E. &C.R.; Junc- 
 tion for Maidstone, also for 
 Horsmonden and Hawk- 
 hurst. 
 
 — Junction, ch., 34. 
 
 Pancras (St.), Canterbury, 140 
 
 PANDULPH, Cardinal, 47, 57, 
 158. 47 ' 57 ' 
 
 Parker, Abp., 176. 
 
 Parrock Hall, 20. 
 
 Patrixbourne, 151. 
 
 Paultring, 220. 
 
 Peck ham, Abp., 48, 126. 
 
 — , East, 63. 
 
 — , West, 63. 
 
 Pegwell BA r, traditions, 223. 
 
 P EMBURY, 34. 
 
 Pennenben Heath, near 
 Maidstone, 205. 
 
 PENSHURST, 26. Popu- 
 
 lation, 1,678. 
 
 Place and Park: Park 
 free; House open on Mon., 
 Tues., Thurs., and Fri. 2 to 
 6 (winter 2 to 4) ; on other 
 days by special permission. 
 (Closed on Good Friday and 
 Bank Holidays.) Pictures : 
 No full catalogue published. 
 Tickets, is. at Post Office. 
 
 Station: (S.E. & CP.) a- 
 bout 2 m. N. of village. 
 
 Church. 
 
 Inn : Leicester Arms, com- 
 fortable. Carriages for hire. 
 
 Post Office in village. 
 
 Pennypot Woods, 216. 
 
 Perry Wood, 1 14. 
 
 Peter, the Czar, at Sayes 
 Court, 6. 
 
 Petticoat Hill, near Graveney, 
 173. 
 
 PlCKHURST, 67. 
 
 Pictures, collections of :— 
 Alban's (St.) Court, 154. 
 Bedgebury, 252. 
 Capel Manor, 250. 
 Chevening, 236. 
 Chipstead Place, 242. 
 Cobham, 91. 
 Greenwich, 9. 
 Knole, 231. 
 Olantigh, 211. 
 Penshurst, 27. 
 Bedleaf, 26. 
 Shoreham Place, 241. 
 Squerryes, 243. 
 
 PILGRIMS' WAY, its course, 
 192, 213, 236, 237, 242. 
 
 Pinhope Point, fortifications, 
 261. 
 
 Place House, Dartford, 187. 
 Plaistow Lodge, 66. 
 Plaxtol, 238. 
 
 PLUCKLEY, 34. Popula- 
 tion, 886. 
 
 Station : S.E.&C.R. 
 Inn : Bering Arms. 
 
 PLUMSTEAD, 185, [10]. 
 Population, 16,400. 
 
 Station: On S.E. & C.E. 
 (North Kent section). 
 
 Churches : St. Margaret's 
 (parish church) ; St. Nicholas. 
 
 Bostall Heath : S.E. of 
 town. 
 
 Point,the,Blackheath ,caverns, 
 179. 
 
 Polders, 168. 
 
 Polehill Tunnel, 230. 
 
 POOL, the, its extent, 4. 
 
 Port Victoria, 23, 191. 
 
 Preston, near Faversham, 
 114. 
 
 — Hall, 196. 
 
 Products and manufactures of 
 Kent, [10-14]. 
 
 Prospect House, Thanet, 218. 
 [PURFLEET], 1 6. 
 
 Quarry Hills, line of the 
 churches on, 35, 249. 
 
 Quarry House, 97. 
 
 QUEENBOROUGH, 264. 
 Population, 1,544. 
 
 Stations : S. E. & C. E.— 
 
 Town Station, E. of town ; 
 and Pier Station, N.W. of 
 town. 
 
 Steamers twice daily to 
 Flushing; about 10 hrs. 
 
 Hotel : Ship, small. 
 
 Post Office : in town. 
 
 Church. 
 
 Castle (moat and well). 
 Public Library. 
 
 R. 
 
 RADIGUND' S (ST.) 
 
 ABBEY, 59. 
 
 Stations : Nearest, Kears- 
 ney, about 2 m. N.; Dover 
 Priory about 3 m. E. Car- 
 riage from Dover for 5s. or 
 3s. 4<i. Extensive ruins. 
 
 Refreshments can some- 
 times be obtained at the 
 farm-house. 
 
 Eadnor Park Stat, (now 
 Folkestone Central Stat.), 43. 
 
 RAINHAM, ch., brasses, monu- 
 ments, 102. 
 
 RAMS GATE, 3, 177, 222. 
 
 Population, 27,733. 
 
 Stations : S.E. & C.E.— 
 
 Eamsgate Harbour Station, 
 for East and West Margate, 
 Chatham, and London. 
 Eamsgate Town Station (top 
 of Chatham Street) for Mar- 
 gate Sands, Canterbury, 
 Deal and Dover. 'Bus meets 
 nearly all trains. 
 
 Steamers (in summer) to 
 London, daily (return, ys., 
 5s. 6d, 49. 6d.) ; to Dover 
 and Boulogne, occasionally. 
 
 Hotels : Granville, a large 
 house built by Pugin (at St. 
 Lawrence on Sea, on the 
 East Cliff), first class; St. 
 Cloud; Paragon; Trafalgar ; 
 Bull and George; Victoria 
 (temperance). 
 
 Refreshments : Cafe 
 Eoyal, Harbour St. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 293 
 
 RAMS G ATE— owYrf. 
 Marina and Promenade 
 
 Pier, near Harbour station. 
 
 Post Office : High St. 
 
 Banks: Lloyd's; Capital $ 
 Counties; National Pro- 
 vincial. 
 
 BathingEstablishment: 
 
 W. Cliff. 
 
 Markets: Wednesday and 
 Saturday. 
 
 Amphitheatre (Sanger's). 
 
 Skating Rink. 
 
 EAMSGATE, railways and 
 steamer to, 3, 177, 222. 
 
 — to DeaJ, road from, 268. 
 
 RAVENSBOURNE the river, 6, 
 68. 
 
 Rayham, in Sheppey, 267. 
 
 RE CULVER, 23, 160, 174. 
 Population, 256. 
 
 Station : Nearest, Heme 
 Bay, about 5 m. W. ; Birch- 
 ington, about 6 m. E. 
 
 Conveyances from 
 Heine Bay. 
 
 Inn : King Ethelbcrt, close 
 to ruins. 
 
 Letter box in village. 
 
 RECULVER, 23, 160, 174; 
 • history, 174; destruction of 
 the ch., 175. 
 
 Redleaf, 30. 
 
 — garden, 26. 
 
 liEGULBlUM (now Reculver), 
 174. 
 
 Reynolds, Abp., 133. 
 
 Rhee Wall, the, in Romney 
 Marsh, 276. 
 Richard L, 51, 129. 
 
 — 11., 19, 179, 245. 
 
 — III., 212. 
 
 RICHBOROUGH 
 CASTLE, 164, 167. 
 
 Station: Nearest, Sand- 
 wich, about i£ m. by foot- 
 path. 
 
 Candles (for underground 
 passages) can be obtained at 
 farm-house. 
 
 Ridley, Bp., 174. 
 Ringwould, ch., 271. 
 Ripley Court, 213. 
 Ripple, 271. 
 
 RIVER, near Dover, 158. 
 
 — Hill, Sevenoaks, 33, 239. 
 
 ROCHESTER, 73. Popula- 
 tion, 30,590. 
 
 Stations: S.E.&C.R.— 
 
 Rochester Central Station 
 near Cathedral, for Strood 
 and Chatham (Cent.) ; Strood 
 Station (W. bank of river) ; 
 Rochester High St. and 
 Rochester Bridge (W. bank 
 of river), for Strood and 
 London, Sheerness, Canter- 
 bury, Ramsgate, Margate, 
 Dover. 
 
 Omnibuses: Between 
 Strood and Chatham sta- 
 tions. 
 
 Steamers : To Upnor, 
 Sheerness and Southend, in 
 summer. 
 
 Hotels: Bull, High St., 
 good ; Crown, near the Bridge; 
 King's Head (E. & C.) ; Gor- 
 don (Temperance). 
 
 Post Office : High St. 
 
 Guildhall (Library, &c). 
 
 Banks: London and 
 County ; London and Provin- 
 cial : both in High St. ; 
 Capital and Counties. 
 
 Clubs : Conservative, Star 
 Hill; Rochester and County, 
 Castle Moat; Liberal, High 
 St.; Castle, near the Bridge. 
 
 Golf: 18 hole course at 
 Oakleigh, Higham. 
 
 Recreation Grounds, 
 
 near Eort Pitt. 
 
 Cathedral Services: On 
 
 Sundays at 8 a.m., 10.30, 3. 
 4, and 7. On weekdays at 8, 
 10, and 4. On Friday also 
 at 12. 
 
 Castle Grounds : Admis- 
 sion free. 
 
 ROCHESTER, history, 73; 
 walks, 76 ; walk through 
 city, 76 ; Priory, Deanery, 
 Cathedral, grammar school, 
 77 ; Eastgate House, 78 ; 
 Castle, 79 ; town-hall, Watts's 
 charities, 79 ; Cathedral, 82 ; 
 excursions, 90. 
 
 — bridge, the old, 76; the 
 new, 79. 
 
 — CATHEDRAL, ground- 
 plan, 83 ; historj', 84 ; Gun- 
 dulf ! s towei-, 85 ; west front, 
 nave, 86; N. \V. transept, S. 
 transept, presbytery, choir, 
 87 ; S. choir aisle, crypt, 
 chapter-house, 89. 
 
 [Roding, the river], 14. 
 
 RODMERSHAM, 107. 
 
 Rokeslie, or Ruxley, 70. 
 
 ROLVEKDEN, 255. 
 
 Roman antiquities in Kent, 
 [6\. 
 
 ROMNEY, NEW, 274. 
 
 Population, 1,328. 
 
 Station : (S.E. & C.R.) on 
 branch from Lydd, between 
 town and Littlestone. Beach 
 about 1 m. from station. 
 
 Omnibuses: To Ash ford, 
 on Tuesdays and Fridays at 8. 
 To Folkestone, on Tuesday, 
 Thursday, and Saturday at 
 8.30. To Rye, on Wednesday 
 and Saturday at 8.30. 
 
 Hotels : Grand Hotel, Lit- 
 tlestone, facing the sea ; 
 Station Hotel ; JSew Inn. 
 
 Post Office: near station. 
 
 Romney Marsh Har- 
 riers. Kennels at Hope. 
 
 ROMNEY HOY, 274. 
 
 — MARSH, 275, 277. 
 
 ROSHERVILLE GARDENS, 18. 
 
 ROT HER, the, 41, 274, 276. 
 [Royal Albert Docks], 13. 
 Roy don Hall, 63. 
 Ruim's Gate, 222. 
 RUSTHALL, 240. 
 Ruxley Farm, 70. 
 Ryarsh Chalk-hill, 208. 
 RYE, 278. 
 
 S. 
 
 SALTWOOD CASTLE, 
 
 Open to the public on Wed., 
 from 2.30-6 p.m. Charge 
 6d., 39; tunnel, 42. 
 
 Hotel : Castle. 
 
 SAND GATE, 45. Popula- 
 
 tion, 2,023. 
 
 Stations: S.E.&C.R.— 
 
 Sandgate Station for Hythe 
 and London. Shorncliffe 
 Camp Station, N. of town, 
 for Folkestone, Dover and 
 London. Refreshments at 
 Shorncliffe Station. 
 
294 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 SAND G ATE— contd. 
 
 Omnibuses : Meet nearly 
 all trains. To Folkestone, 
 and Hythe, from both hotels 
 6 times daily. 
 
 Hotels: Sea View; Royal; 
 Norfolk. 
 
 Bank: Lloyd? s. 
 
 Post Offices : Central ; 
 West Sandgate ; and Shorn- 
 cliffe Camp. 
 
 Sandgate Club : Devon- 
 shire Rooms. 
 
 Shorncliff e Camp:heights 
 
 above town. 
 
 SANDGATE CASTLE, 45. 
 Sandhurst, 256. 
 Sandling Park, 42. 
 
 — Place, Maidstone, 204. 
 
 — Junction, 38. 
 Sandown Castle, 170. 
 
 SANDWICH, 161. Popula- 
 tion, 3,170. 
 
 Station on S.E. & C.R., S. 
 
 side of town. 
 
 Omnibuses : From Lord 
 Warden, to Canterbury at 
 9 a.m. daily; from Fleur de 
 Lis, to Canterbury at 8.30 
 a.m. daily. 
 
 Flys : From Lord Warden, 
 meet all trains. 
 
 Hotel : Bell (good). 
 
 Post Office : Potter St. 
 
 Bank : London $ County. 
 
 St. George's Golf Club: 
 
 Strand St. ; Links on the 
 downs, 1 m. distant. 
 
 Market: Wednesday. 
 
 Richborough Castle, i£ 
 
 tn. distant by path. Fee. 
 
 Satis House, Rochester, 75. 
 
 Saxon antiquities in Kent, [8]. 
 
 Saxonhurst, 254. 
 
 Sayes Court, Deptford, 6. 
 
 Scotney Castle, Lamberhurst, 
 262. 
 
 Scott's Hall, near Smeeth, 36. 
 
 SCRAPSGATE, in Sheppey, fos- 
 sils, 262, 265. 
 
 Seabrook, near Hythe, 46. 
 
 Seacox Heath, 255. 
 
 Seal, 237. 
 
 Seasalter, ch., 173. 
 Sellindge, 36. 
 Selling, 114. 
 ' Seven Hundreds,' 257. 
 
 SEVENOAKS, 231. Popu- 
 lation, 8,106. 
 
 Stations : S.E.&C.R.— Bat 
 and Ball, N.E. of town for 
 Bromlev and Maidstone ; 
 Tub's Hill, S.W. of town, 
 for Ashford, Ramsgate and 
 Dover ; both about 1 k m . from 
 centre of Sevenoaks. Con- 
 necting line between the 
 two. 
 
 Omnibuses : To all parts 
 of the town, meet most 
 trains. 
 
 Hotels : Pawley's ; Grown 
 (good), London Rd. ; Royal 
 Oak (near Church and Knole 
 Park) ; Rose and Crown, High 
 St. ; Sevenoaks Arms, Tub's 
 Hill ; Bligh's Private Hotel, 
 High St. ; Lime Tree. 
 
 Post Offices: 58, High 
 St. ; St. John's Hill. 
 
 Banks: London and 
 County; Lloyd\<>, 
 
 Clubs: Constitutional ; 
 Liberal. 
 
 Vine Cricket Ground. 
 
 Knole Park : adjoins 
 town on S.E. 
 
 SEVENOAKS JUNCTION, 
 70. 
 
 — TUNNEL, 240. 
 
 Severn droog Castle, 14, 
 185. 
 
 SHAKESPEARE'S CLIFF, 57; 
 walk round, 49. 
 
 Sharsted Court, 108. 
 
 SHEERNESS, 23, 264. 
 Population, 18,179. 
 
 Stations : Dockyard, and 
 Sheerness-on-Sea, S.E.&C.R. 
 
 Steamers : Run from 
 Pier to meet trains at Port 
 Victoria, S.E.R. ; from the 
 Pier to Chatham, and Strood, 
 in summer ; occasionally to 
 Southend. 
 
 Hotels : Fountain, near 
 Dockyard; Sea View and 
 
 SHEERNESS— cowfd. 
 Royal, at Sheerness-on-Sea ; 
 Britannia ; Wood's (Tem- 
 perance). 
 
 Post Offices: Blue Town, 
 and High St., Mile Town. 
 
 Bank : London and County, 
 27, High St. 
 
 Dockyard: Admission 
 free on certain conditions, 
 learned at entrance. 
 
 SHEERNESS, capture by 
 the Dutch, 265; docks and 
 garrison, 265. 
 
 Sheerness-on-Sea, 264. 
 
 SHELDWICH, ch., brasses, 260. 
 
 Shellness, mound, 267. 
 
 Shepherd- s Well (or Si- 
 bertswold), ch., 156. 
 
 SHEPPEY, Isle of, view of, 
 23, 102, 106; modes of reach - 
 ing, 106, 260, 263 ; ravages 
 of the sea, fossils, 262, 263; 
 occupations of the peopJe, 
 263 ; Cotterels, the Swale, 263; 
 Queenborough, 264 ; Sheer- 
 ness, 23, 264 ; Minster, 265 ; 
 Eastchurch, 266; Shurlami, 
 Warden, Leysdown, Shell- 
 ness, 267. 
 
 — Bp. John de, 89. 
 
 Shepway Cross, 40. 
 
 Shipbourne, 239. 
 
 Shirrenden, 250. 
 
 [SHOEBURYNESS], the 
 beach of, 23. 
 
 SHOOTERS' HILL, 14 ; Herbert 
 Hospital, 181 ; Severndroog 
 Tower, 185; view from, de- 
 scribed by Byron, 185. 
 
 SHOREHAM, Kent, 241. 
 
 SHORNCLIFFE, camp, 42, 45. 
 
 Shorn e, 95, 190. 
 
 Inn: Crown. 
 
 Shornmead, fortifications, 22. 
 
 SHORTLANDS, 65. Popu- 
 lation, 1,775. 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.R. main 
 line, Junction for Nunhead, 
 via Catford. 
 
 Shottenden Hill, camp, 
 114. 
 
 Should en, 172. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 295 
 
 Shurland Castle, 106, 267. 
 SlBERTSWOLD, ch., 156. 
 
 Si dc up, 244. 
 SILVERTOWN, 13. 
 Sissinghurst, builder of, 254. 
 
 SITTINGBOURNE, 105. 
 
 Population,. 8,943. 
 
 Station : Near centre of 
 town, S.E. & C.R. Junction 
 for Queenborough and 
 Sheerness. 
 
 Omnibus : Daily from 
 station to Maidstone at 9.20, 
 gets back at 5.30. 
 
 Hotels : Bull, Shakespeare. 
 
 Post Offices : High St., 
 Sittingbourne; and High St., 
 Milton (N. of station). 
 
 Recreation Ground. 
 
 Public Free Library. 
 
 Paper Factories. 
 
 S MAUD EN, Ch., 258. 
 
 Smeeth, 36. 
 
 Smugglers in Romney marsh, 
 276 ; in the Weald, 252, 255. 
 
 SNAROATE, ch., glass, smug- 
 glers' storehouse, 277. 
 
 SNAVE, 277. 
 
 SNODLAND, 192. Popula- 
 tion, 4,136. 
 
 Station: S.E.R, 
 
 Hotels: Bull and Queen V 
 (small). 
 
 Institute : with Library 
 and Billiard Rooms. 
 
 Soar Place, Plaxtol, 238. 
 
 Sole Street, 73. 
 
 Somerhill, 33. 
 
 [SOUTHEND], 23. 
 
 See Eastern Counties. 
 
 SO UTIIFLEET, 19. 
 South Park, Penshurst, 30. 
 Speldhurst, 240. 
 Spelmonden, 250. 
 Springhead, 19. 
 
 Squerryes Court, Westerham, 
 
 243- 
 Standen, 258. 
 
 Stanford, 38. 
 
 [Stan ford-le-H ope], 22. 
 
 Stan gate Creek, 261. 
 
 Stansted, 237. 
 
 STAPLEHURST, 34. Po- 
 pulation, 1,688. 
 
 Station: on S.E. & C.R. 
 
 Omnibuses : Run daily 
 to Maidstone, and twice 
 daily to Cranbrook. 
 
 Inn : South Eastern Hotel. 
 Good conveyances for Goud- 
 hurst and Biddenden, S. ; 
 Boughton Monchelsea, and 
 Sutton Valence, N., may be 
 had here. 
 
 STAPLEHURST, ch., 34 ; S. 
 Place, 34. 
 
 Starkey's Castle, 192. 
 
 Steamers from Chatham to 
 Sheerness, 191, 260; Dover, 
 58 ; Folkestone, 45 ; Lon- 
 don, 3. 
 
 Stede Hill, fine view, 248. 
 
 STEPHEN'S (St.), Canterbury, 
 ch., font, Manwood monu- 
 ment, 158. 
 
 Stidulfs Place, 235. 
 
 St. John's, 228. 
 
 Stock bury, 105. 
 
 Stoke, 97. 
 
 STONAR, site of, 164 ; investi- 
 gated by Mr. Reader, 268. 
 
 STONE, near Greenhithe, 16. 
 
 — END, near New Romney, 
 legend, 274. 
 
 — , Faversham, 112. 
 
 — IN OXNEY, 259. 
 
 — Street, course of the, 
 traced, 42 ; in Hardres, 151 ; 
 in Ightham, 237. 
 
 Stonegrave field, in Snodland, 
 193. 
 
 Stonehouse, 227. 
 1 Stonewall Park, 25. 
 
 STOUR, one of the sources of 
 the, 248; fisheries, 160, 211 ; 
 course below Sandwich, 162; 
 mouth, 223. 
 
 — Lesser, places on its banks, 
 150, 151, 152. 
 
 Stowting, 42. 
 
 Street End, 42. 
 
 — Well, near Lenham, 248. 
 
 STROOD. 73, 191. Popula- 
 tion, 10,416. 
 
 Stations: S.E. & C.R. — 
 Strood station for Gravesend 
 and Chatham. Rochester 
 Bridge and Strood station 
 for London, Chatham, Rams- 
 gate, Dover. 
 
 Steamers down Medway. 
 
 (See Rochester.) 
 
 Studfall Castle, 40, 41. 
 
 Sturry, 159. 
 
 Sudbury, Abp., 133. 
 
 SUGARLOAF HiLL,nea.TFo\ke- 
 stone, 43, 45. 
 
 SUMMERLEY, F. f quoted, 16, 
 91. 
 
 Sumner, Abp., 121. 
 Sundridge, 64, 242. 
 
 Sundridge Park, near Brom- 
 ley, 66. Good Golf Links. 
 
 Surrenden Dering, ancient 
 charters, 35. 
 
 Sutton, 271. 
 
 — Barn, Roman remains and 
 coins, 104. 
 
 — Castle, 249. 
 — , East, 249. 
 — at-Hone, 71. 
 
 — Valence, 249. 
 Swale, the, 263. 
 Swanley, 70, 244. 
 Swash, the, 269. 
 SWINGFIELD, 46. 
 Syndale, 112. 
 
 T. 
 
 Tait Monument, Canter- 
 bury, 127. 
 
 Taiikerton Tower, 148, 173. 
 
296 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Teise, the, 251. 
 
 Temple Ewell, near Dover, 
 158. 
 
 TENTERDEN, 256. Popu- 
 lation, 3, 243. 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.R. Line 
 joins London and Hastings 
 branch at Robertsbridge. 
 
 Omnibuses : to Headcorn 
 3 times daily ; to Appledore 
 3 times daily ; to Ashford 
 and Rye daily; to Hawk- 
 hurst and Cranbrook twice 
 a week. 
 
 Hotel: Woolpack. 
 
 Club : Conservative. 
 
 Banks: London and 
 County ; Lloyd's. 
 
 TESTON, bridge, 64. 
 
 Teynham, 107. 
 
 THAMES, the, steamers on, 3 ; 
 navigation, 4; docks, 5; joined 
 by the Ravensbourne, 6 ; by 
 the Lea, 13 ; by the Roding, 
 14 ; by the Darenth, 16 ; 
 ancient embankments, 14 ; 
 width and depth at Graves- 
 end, 22 ; said to be forded by 
 Aulus Plautius, 22; oyster 
 fisheries, 22; junction of the 
 Medway, 23 ; Nore light, 23 ; 
 breadth of 'tideway, 23. 
 
 Thames and Medway 
 Canal, 20. 
 
 THANET, Isle of, extent, 
 219 ; pop. 219 ; former habits 
 of the people, present state, 
 220 ; St. Augustine in, 220. 
 
 — , burial-place of the Earls 
 of, 102. 
 
 Thanington, 216. 
 Theobald, Abp., 132. 
 Theodore, Abp., 136. 
 Thomas, Bp., 65. 
 Thorn, 223. 
 Throwley, 260. 
 Thunor'S Leap, 219. 
 Thurnham, 244. 
 [Tilbury Bocks], 21. 
 
 L — Fort], 20 ; Queen Eliza- 
 beth at, 21. 
 
 Tilman stone, 169. 
 
 TONB RIDGE, 30, 240. 
 Population, 12,736. 
 
 Station : (Junction for 
 Tunbridge Wells and Hast- 
 ings) S. E. & C.R., near centre 
 town. 
 
 Omnibuses: From Rose 
 and Crown, meet all trains; 
 To Southborough, 3 times 
 daily; from station 10.15; 
 2.15; 7 p.m. ; to Hadlow, at 
 10.20; 1.25; 4; 7; 7.35. To 
 East Peckham, at 10.20 ; 4 ; 
 745- 
 
 Hotels : Rose and Crown ; 
 Bull; Angel; Bridge; Castle. 
 
 Refreshments at Kim- 
 minn's or Mobsby's, both in 
 High St. 
 
 Post Office : High St. 
 
 Banks : London $ County, 
 High St. ; Lloyd's. 
 
 Free Library: High St. 
 
 Castle : May be seen on 
 permission. 
 
 Golf :2 m. from Stat. 
 
 Tonbridge School. 
 
 Chalybeate Spring 
 
 (Wells Rd.). 
 
 TONBRIDGE JUNCTION, 
 30, 240. 
 
 TONG, 106, 263 . 
 
 Torry Hill, 248. 
 
 TOVIL, 64, 201. 
 
 TREMWORTH, Roman ceme- 
 tery, 211. 
 
 Trimley Woods, 160. 
 Trottescliffe, 208. 
 Troy Town, 214, 271. 
 Tub's Hill, Sevenoaks, 242. 
 TUDELY, 34. 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS, 3 o, 
 
 240. Population, 33,373. 
 
 Stations : S.E.&C.R.,High 
 St. ;L.B.S.C.R., Back Parade. 
 Connecting line between 
 them ; Refreshments at sta. 
 
 Omnibuses : Numerous, 
 to Southborough, Pembury, 
 Speldhurst, Langton. 
 
 Hotels : Calverley, Calver- 
 ley Park; Royal Kentish, 
 London Road ; Mount Eph- 
 raim> hill of same name ; 
 
 TUNBRIDGE WELLS— 
 
 contd. 
 
 W ellington Castle, London 
 Road ; Swan, Back Parade ; 
 Spa (Sanatorium) ; Claren- 
 don. 
 
 Refreshments : Fuller's, 
 Mt. Pleasant. 
 
 Post Offices : High St. ; 
 Calverley Road ; Church 
 Road, &c. 
 
 Banks: London County ; 
 Lloyd's ; Capital and Court- 
 ties; Barclay's. 
 
 Clubs: Tunbridge Wells, 
 Mount Pleasant Road; Liter- 
 ary Society, on the Pantiles. 
 
 Grosvenor Recreation 
 Ground : N. of the town ; 
 High Rocks m., Toad 
 Rock 1 m. from town. 
 
 Great Hall (near S.E. & 
 C.R. sta.). 
 
 Spa. 
 
 High Rocks and Toad 
 Rock. 
 
 Golf: Two 9 hole courses 
 near the town. Ashdown 
 Forest and Tunbridge Wells 
 Club course, 18 holes, at 
 Forest Row, Sussex. 
 
 Tunbridge Ware fac- 
 tories. 
 
 The Common : 180 acres. 
 
 Calverley Park. 
 
 Drives : to Penshurst ; 
 Hever ; Withyham : South- 
 borough ; Eridge ; Bay ham. 
 
 TuNIFORD, ruins of manor- 
 house, 2 1 6. 
 
 [Tunnel Pier], 5. 
 
 TUNSTALL, 106. 
 
 Tyler, WAT, at Dartford,i88; 
 his encampment on Black- 
 heath, 178. 
 
 U, 
 
 UFFORD, Abp., 199. 
 Ulcombe, 249. 
 
 Undercliff, between Folke- 
 stone and Dover, walk on 
 the, 49. 
 
 UPCHURCH, 103, 261. 
 
 Upnor Castle, battles with 
 the Butch, 260. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 297 
 
 V. 
 
 V AGS I ACM, 19, 197. 
 
 Vale Masoall, 70. 
 
 Valence, 243. 
 
 — , Sutton, 249. 
 
 Viaduct, Ford Valley, 43. 
 
 VIA Limenma, or Stone 
 Street, 48. 
 
 [ Victoria Bocks], 13. 
 
 Vine, culture of the, in Eng- 
 land, [10], 108. 
 
 Vinters Park, Maidstone, 201. 
 W. 
 
 Waldershare, 157. 
 Walland Marsh, 263. 
 
 WALMER, 171. Station 
 S.B. & C.R. Population, 
 5,248. (See Deal.) 
 
 Hotel : S.E. Rly. Co.'s. 
 
 Station: on S.E. and 
 L.C.D. joint line. 
 
 Lawn Tennis Club : 
 
 Dover Road. 
 
 Clanwilliam Baths: On 
 
 the Beach. 
 
 Subscription Grounds. 
 
 The Castle. 
 
 The Barracks. 
 
 Drive or Walk : Kings- 
 down and St. Margaret's 
 Bay. 
 
 WALMER, UPPER, 270. 
 
 WANTSUME, the, once an arm 
 of the sea, present state, 160. 
 
 warbeck, perkin, 169. 
 
 Warden, 267. 
 
 ■— Point, 23, 262. 
 
 Warehorne, 259. 
 
 Ware Street, tumulus, 244. 
 
 Warham, Abp., 37, 47, 90, 
 126, 139, 159. 
 
 Warner, Bp., 66. 
 
 Warren, the, near New Rom- 
 ney, 274. 
 
 WATERINGBURY, 62. 
 
 Watling Street, 68, 102, 
 150, 168, 178, 210, 242. 
 
 Weald, the, tour in, 250 ; geo- 
 logy, [16] ; clothing trade, 
 253. 
 Weirleigh, 34. 
 
 Wellington, Duke of, at 
 Walmer, 270 ; place of death, 
 171 ; relics of, 171. 
 
 WESTBERE, 160. 
 
 WESTENHANGER, 38. 
 
 WESTERHAM, 243. Popu- 
 lation, 2,905. 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.R. 
 branch from Dunton Green. 
 
 Hotels; King's Arms and 
 Crown . 
 
 Omnibus : to Oxted 
 twice daily. 
 
 Bank: London «$• County. 
 
 Church: Brasses. 
 
 Public Hall and Billiard 
 Rooms. 
 
 Brasted Chart and 
 
 Crockham Hill, about 3 m. 
 S. ; Westerham Downs, 2 m. 
 N. 
 
 WESTGATE-ONSEA, 
 
 177. Population, 2,738. 
 
 Station: S.E. & C.H., 8. 
 side of town. 
 
 Hotels : Beach House; St. 
 Mildred's; West Cliff; Xot. 
 tingham Castle ; Bane Mead ; 
 Ledge Point (private). 
 
 Post Office : St. Mildred's 
 Road. 
 
 Baths: Sea Road. 
 
 Assembly Rooms: Sea 
 
 Road. 
 
 Golf Links: Ledge Point. 
 
 Cricket and Tennis 
 Club. (9 acres.) 
 
 Westgate Club. 
 
 [WEST HAM], 13. 
 [-— India Bocks], 5. 
 — SWALE, the, 261. 
 Westwell, 212. 
 Whitebait, 4, 13. 
 WHITGIFT, Abp., 176. 
 
 WHITSTABLE, 23, 173. 
 
 Population, 7,086. 
 
 Stations : S.E. & C.R.— 
 Whitstable Town Station for 
 London, Chatham and Rams- 
 gate ; Whitstable Harbour 
 Station for Canterbury. 
 
 Hotels : Bear and Key ; 
 Buke of Cumberland ; Marl- 
 borough (private). 
 
 Bank : Capital % Counties. 
 
 Boats: At Tankerton 
 Beach, across to or around 
 the Isle of Sheppey. 
 
 Institute, Museum, and 
 Aquarium. 
 
 Pier (opened 1894). 
 
 Pavilion (opened 1894). 
 
 WHITSTABLE, railway to 
 Canterbury, 148. 
 
 Whittlesey, Abp., 120. 
 
 W I BERT, Prior, 137. 
 WlCKHAM, East, ch., 186. 
 
 — West, 67. 
 WlCKHAMBREUX, 153. 
 
 Wildernesse, house and 
 park, 231, 235, 236. 
 
 Willesborough, 36. 
 
 William it., 74. 
 
 — 9, 226. 
 
 — / V., 9. 
 
 Wilmington, near Dartford, 
 ch., 188. 
 
 Wincheap, 250. 
 
 — Gate, Canterbury, 250. 
 WlNCHELSEY, Abp., 133. 
 Windmill Hill, Gravesend, 20. 
 W INGHAM, 168. 
 Winkland Oaks, bower at, 27 1. 
 WlTHERSDEN, 211. 
 WlTTERSHAM, 259. 
 W0LSEY, Cardinal, 17,51, 186. 
 WOMENSWOULD, 155. 
 WOODCHURCH, 259. 
 WOODNESBOROUGH, 169. 
 Woodstock Park, 106. 
 Woollett Hall, 70. 
 
298 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 WOOLWICH, 3, 181, 184. 
 Population, 117,178. (Metro- 
 politan Borough.) 
 
 Stations: Dockyard Sta- 
 tion, and Arsenal Station, 
 S.E. & C.E. 
 
 Steamers: Pier to N. 
 Woolwich, G.E.R. ; in sum- 
 mer to Gravesend, Southend, 
 Sheerness, Clacton-on-Sea. 
 
 Hotels: Long's; Mitre; 
 Crown and Anchor. 
 
 Post Office: 30, Green's 
 End. 
 
 Banks : London $ County, 
 in, Powis St. ; London 
 Provincial ; Capital $ Coun- 
 ties. 
 
 Royal Arsenal: Admis- 
 sion by order from the War 
 Office. E. end of town. 
 
 WOOLWICH ARSENAL, 14, 
 181. 
 
 — DOCKYARD, 13, 181. 
 — , NORTH, 13. - 
 Wootton Court, 156. 
 
 WobcestebTbaining Ship, 
 18. 
 
 WOBMSEILL, 247. 
 
 WOBTH, near Sandwich, ch., 
 169. 
 
 WOULDHAM, 192. 
 Wrinsted Court, 248. 
 W BOTH AM, 209, 237. 
 WYCHLING, 248. 
 
 WYE, 211. Population, 
 1,312. 
 
 Station : S.E. & C.R. 
 
 Inn: King's Head (fish- 
 ing in Stour. ) 
 
 Church: (Collegiate). 
 
 Grammar School, 1630. 
 
 South Eastern Agri- 
 cultural College. 
 
 Race Course : near sta- 
 tion. 
 
 Wye races, 211. 
 
 Wykeham, Bp. William of, 
 264. 
 
 Y. 
 
 Yalding, 62. 
 
 YABBELL, Mr., on whitebait, 
 13- 
 
 Yen LADE, the mouth of the 
 Wantsume, 219. 
 
 Yew trees, 37. 
 
 Yo KELY, Michael, the founder 
 of Draper's Hospital, 227. 
 
 Yonge, Bp., monument, 66. 
 
 Yotes Court, 63. 
 
 Ypres Tower, Rye, 278. 
 
 Z. 
 
 ZOFFANY, painting by, 10. 
 
 Zucchebo, paintings by, 9, 
 67> 234. 
 
 OXFORD : HORACE HART. PRINTER TO THE UNIVERSITY. 
 
Murray's Handbook 
 
 ADVERTISER, 
 
 1905-1906, 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TRAVELLERS, 
 
 RAILWAY 
 
 AND 
 
 STEAMBOAT COMPANIES, 
 HOTELS, 
 
 AND 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS ADVERTISEMENTS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.C. 
 Geographer to His Majesty the King. 
 
2 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 GOMPAQNIEdesMESSAGERIES MARITIMES 
 
 FRENCH POSTAL STEAMERS. 
 
 DEPARTURES FROM MARSEILLES. 
 
 MAIN LINES. 
 A 
 
 B 
 
 BRANCH LINES. 
 
 MAIN LINE, 
 
 Connecting at 
 Colombo with 
 
 the China 
 Main Lines. 
 
 BRANCH LINES. 
 
 MAIN LINES. 
 
 BRANCH LINES. 
 
 : g :l 
 
 INDIA. CHINA. JAPAN. 
 
 Bombay Direct 
 
 (Port Said, Suez, Aden, Colombo, ) 
 \ Singapore, Saigon, Hong Kong, / 
 ( Shanghai, Kobe', Yokohama ... J 
 (Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Colombo. 
 \ Singapore, Saigon, Hong Kong. 
 ( Shanghai, Kobe, Yokohama 
 
 I Colombo to Pondicherry, Calcutta ... 
 Singapore to Batavia 
 Saigon to Tonquin Ports 
 Saigon to Singapore 
 
 AUSTRALIA & NEW CALEDONIA. 
 
 {Port Said, Suez, Aden, Bombay, j 
 Colombo, Fremantle, Adelaide, 
 Melbourne, Sydney, Noumea ... j 
 
 { Sydney to Noume'a 
 
 \ Noumea to New Hebrides ... ... 
 
 Through Bookings to New Zealand, 
 Tasmania, Queensland. 
 
 INDIAN OCEAN LINES. 
 
 Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Mombassa, 
 Zanzibar, Mutsamudu or Moroni, 
 Mayotte, Majunga, Nossi-Be, Diego- 
 Suarez, Tamatave, Reunion, Mau- 
 ritius 
 
 Port Said, Suez, Djibouti, Aden, Mahe, \ 
 Diego Suarez, Sainte-Marie, Tama- ' 
 \™ tave, ^Reunion, Mauritius ^ 
 
 | Diego-Suarez to Nossi-Be, Analalave, I 
 Majunga, Namela, Morundava, V 
 Ambohibe, and Tulear. 
 
 Every 28 days 
 Every 28 days 
 
 Every 28 days 
 
 Every 28 days 
 Every Mail 
 Every Week 
 Every Mail 
 
 Every 28 days 
 
 Every 28 days 
 Every 28 days 
 
 10th of each 
 Month 
 
 25th of each 
 Month 
 
 Connecting 
 with mail 
 of the 25th of 
 each Month 
 
 MEDITERRANEAN. — Weekly departures for Alexandria, Port Said, Beyrout, 
 Syrian Ports, Piraeus, Smyrna, Constantinople, Black Sea (Odessa, Batoum, <fec). 
 Fortnightly for Jaffa, Salonica, Syra, Patras, Suda Bay, and Naples. 
 
 DEPARTURES FROM BORDEAUX. 
 
 For Porto, Lisbon, Dakar, Rio Janeiro, j 
 
 Santos, Montevideo, and Buenos \ Every 28 days 
 
 Ayres ) 
 
 For Vigo, Lisbon, Dakar, Pernam- ) 
 buco, Bahia, Rio Janeiro, Monte- > Every 28 days 
 video, and Buenos Ayres ) 
 
 Offices.— Paris : I, Rue Vignon ; Marseilles: 16, Rue Cannebiere ; Bordeaux: 
 20, Allees d'Orleans ; London : 97, Cannon Street, E.C.. 
 
 BRAZIL 
 and 
 
 RIVER PLATE 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 Anglo-American pile Steamer and Hotel Gompany. 
 
 WEEKLY EXCURSIONS FROM 
 
 CAIRO to ASSOUAN and back. 
 
 Bi/ the fine modern electric-lighted Steamers TWENTY DAYS 
 
 "puritan;* "Mayflower;' and "victoria." qn THE NILE 
 
 £40 AND UPWARDS. 
 
 WEEKLY " EXPRESS SERVICE" FROM 
 
 LUXOR to ASSOUAN and back. 
 
 TEN DAYS' TRIP from CAIRO to the 1st CATARACT and back for £20 10s. 
 
 Regular Service to the Second Cataract, K hartoum , aud Gondokoro. 
 
 NEW COMMODIOUS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL AT ASSOUAN. 
 
 ISLAND OF ELEPHANTINE, AT THE FIRST CATARACT. ' 
 
 Magnificent situation. Latest sanitary arrangements. Standing in its own gardens, 
 covering eight acres. Electric Lighted. Every modern comfort, convenience, and luxury. 
 
 Dahabeahs of all sizes for Family Parties. Small Steamers for private charter. 
 Steam Launches for Local Excursions. Steam Tugs for towing Dahabeahs. 
 Steam Barges for Freight Transport. 
 
 ANGLO-AMERICAN NILE STEAMER AND HOTEL COMPANY. 
 
 CAIRO OFFICES AND ADMINISTRATION: 
 SHARIA BOULAC, Graud Continental Hotel Buildings (tbree doors from corner), 
 London Office : 72, Regent Street, W. New York Office : 113, Broadway. 
 
 Telephone. Post Box, 686. Telegraphic Address i "TRANSPORT, CAIRO." 
 
 THE H1CHLAND RAlLWAYr 
 
 THE HIGHLAND LINE via PERTH & DUNKELD is the ROYAL MAIL ROUTE 
 
 AND IS THE 
 
 DIRECT AND QUICKEST TO INVERNESS 
 
 AND THE 
 
 NORTHERN HIGHLANDS OF SCOTLAND. 
 
 Express Train Service from England, Edinburgh, Glasgow, and Perth, Avith 
 Through Carriages and Sleeping Saloons. 
 
 Tourist Tickets are issued from May 1st to October 31st, available for return up 
 to December 31st from the principal stations in England, Wales, and Scotland, and 
 passengers booking to Inverness vid Dunkeld can make a selection from a large 
 number of delightful Tours from Inverness, tickets for which are issued at reduced 
 fares. 
 
 The new and direct line from Aviemore to Inverness vid Carr Bridge reduces the 
 distance between Perth and Inverness and north thereof by 26 miles, and shortens 
 the time on the journey by an hour. 
 
 The scenery on the route of the Highland Railway from Perth in the South to 
 Wick, Lybster, and Thurso in the North, Kyle of Lochalsh in the West, Elgin, Keith 
 and Buckie in the East, surpasses in interest and variety that of any in the Kingdom. 
 For times of trains, fares, lists of lodgings, description of scenery, and other informa- 
 tion, see the Company's Time Tables, and other publications. The Traffic Manager 
 will be glad to answer any inquiry. 
 
 Ask for Tickets via DUNKELD. 
 
 The Company have Hotels under their own management at DORNOCH, Suther- 
 landshire ; KYLE OF LOCHALSH, within half-a-mile of the Isle of Sky* ; and at 
 INVERNESS. 
 
 Inverness, 1905. T. A. WILSON, General Manager. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 MURK AY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 BELGIAN STATE RAILWAYS 
 
 And MAIL PACKET SERVICE. 
 
 CHEAPEST R AILWAY TRAVELLING i n the WORLD. 
 
 SEASON TICKETS available 15 days. 
 
 EXCURSION TICKETS to BELGIUM and SWITZERLAND during 
 the Summer Season at LESS THAN SINGLE FARES. 
 
 " RUNDREISE" OR COMBINED TOUR TICKETS 
 
 issued at nett Official prices. Quotations free on application, and 
 tickets, supplied at a few hours' notice from the Offices in London. 
 
 Head Office : 53, GRACECHURCH STREET, LONDON, EX. 
 
 West End: 72, REGENT STREET, LONDON, W. 
 Dover: FRIEND & CO.; and on the ADMIRALTY PIER. 
 
 THE KHED1VIAL MAIL LINE OF STEAMERS. 
 
 REGULAR WEEKLY SERVICES BETWEEN 
 
 Alexandria, Piraeus (for Athens), Smyrna, Mitylene and 
 
 Constantinople, leaving Alexandria on Wednesdays, 
 Constantinople on Tuesdays ; and to Syria and the Holy Land, 
 leaving Alexandria on Saturdays and JPort Said on Sundays 
 for Jaffa, Caiffa, Beyrouth, Tripoli, 
 Mersina, and Alexa ndretta. 
 Also from Suez at frequent intervals for Red Sea Ports, calling at 
 El-Tor for Sinai. 
 
 For fuller information, apply at the Company's Office at Alexandria, to 71 5 
 Bishopsgate Street, E.C., or at any of the Company's Agencies. 
 
 AACHEN AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. I 
 
 " iwrx7£sa^3^x3Krs hotel." 
 
 OPPOSITE THE ELISENBRUNNEN, , COMPLETELY RENOVATED. j 
 Under the same management and in conjunction Avith Three Bath Hotels and Dependances— 
 "KAISERBAD HOTEL." "neubad HOTEL," "quirinusbad HOTEL." 
 Pension, including rooms, from 8 marks ; and in dependance from 4£ marks. 
 LIFT. Electric Light. Central Heating. Large Garden. 
 
 AACHEN— AIX-LA-CHAPELLE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL HENRION. Cornelius Batb. 
 
 nnHE superior interior arrangements of this heautiful FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, the comfort of its 
 private apartments, public rooms, promenade-halls, gardens, etc., make it a most desirable 
 residence for English and American families and travellers. Lift. Electric Light. Central Steam 
 Heating throughout. Pension arrangements. UNIQUE BATHING ESTABLISH- 
 MENT. (Opened 1897.) Telegrams, " Henrion, Aachen." A. INTR A-HENRION, Prop. 
 
 MURRAY'S 
 
 HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK. 
 
 ENGLISH— FRENCH— GERMAN— ITA LI A N. 
 
 New EDITION. 3s. 6d. Thoroughly Revised. 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 5 
 
 ADELBODEN. 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE. 
 
 Nice Family Hotel;, in the best situation 
 of Adelboden. 
 
 ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL~"REATING. VERANDAHS. 
 LAWN TENNIS. LARGE GARDEN. 
 
 ALL SORTS, OF WINTER SPORTS. 
 
 LARGE TRAVELLING PARTIES ARE NOT ADMITTED. 
 Terms: 8 to 12 Frs. 
 
 F. ALLENBACH, Proprietor. 
 ALGIERS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL ST. GEORGE. 
 
 MUSTAPHA, Superieur. HOTEL DE LUXE. 
 
 TARIFF AND PAMPHLET ON APPLICATION. 
 AMSTERDAM. 
 
 AMSTEL HOTEL. 
 
 Splendid View on the Amstel River. 
 
 Telegraph and Railway Offices in the Hotel. Every Modern Comfort 
 combined with Moderate Prices. 
 
 AMSTERDAM. 
 
 AMERICAN HOTEL. 
 
 THIRST CLASS. Finest situation. Every . modern comfort. Lift. 
 Electric Light and Steam Heating. Omnibus. Moderate Terms. 
 
 AUG. VOLMER, Manager. 
 
 PASSPORTS. 
 
 See page 48. 
 
6 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May 
 
 1,445 Metres above sea. A N D E R M ATT t 130 Beds. 
 
 At the foot of the Furca, St. Gothard, and Oberalp Passes. 
 
 DANIOTH'S GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 Newest First-class Hotel. Largely patronised by English visitors. Splendid Situation. Every 
 Comfort. Baths. Electric Light throughout. Central Heating. Full Board, 7 to 12 frs. 
 Lawn Tennis. Recreation Hall. Carriages. Omnibus at the Station. May— October. 
 
 Excellent Table d'Hote served at Small Tables. 
 Newly constructed immense Vestibule and large Entrance Kail. 
 Magnificent Restaurant. Bar and Billiards. 
 
 ANTWERP. 
 
 THE GR&ND HOTEL. 
 
 First-class Family Hotel. Centrally situated. Modern suites. 
 Bedrooms with private bath. Gardens. 
 
 ARLES-SUR-RHONE (FRANCE). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU FORUM, 
 
 First Class. Full South. "Renowned Kitchen and Cellars. This highly reputed establishment, in 
 the centre of the town, is close to the Roman Amphitheatre and other interesting remains. 
 Provided with Bath-rooms, Telephone, every modern comfort and sanitary arrangement. In the 
 Hotel can be seen a beautiful Renaissance Annexe, with a tower and splendid view of the Rhone 
 country and Camargue. The family speak English. Omnibus meets every train. Auto-Garage in 
 the Hotel. MICHEL, Proprietor, Correspondent of Touring Clubs. 
 
 Electric Light. ARLES SUR RHONE (FRANCE). Auto-Garage 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DU NORD.-PINUS. 
 
 First-class Hotel and the best equipped in Aries. (Recently reorganised by new Proprietor. ) 
 Only Hotel adjoining Roman Forum. Only entrance to Roman Catacombs in the Hotel. Furnished 
 with all modern accommodation and sanitary arrangements. Telephone. English spoken. 
 Omnibus meets every train. Table d'Hote. Private Dining Saloons, Smoking Room, etc. 
 Every Comfort afforded to Families. Moderate Prices. Managing Proprietor, F. BESSIERE. 
 
 AROLLA, SWITZERLAND. (2,000 metres altitude.) 
 
 HOTEL DU MONT COLLON. (iso Beds.) 
 
 First Class for Excursions and Ascents, Dent Blanche, Bouquetins, Za, Veisiri, Mount Collon, 
 Signo dArolla, Mount Blance de Seillon, &c. Through route to Zermatt, Zinal, Italy, Bagnes- 
 Chamonix. Climate dry, salubrious, recommended by physicians. Unrivalled Summer Resort. 
 English and Catholic Chapels. Branch Hotels— Grand Hotel, Erolene ; Grand Hotel, Sion ; 
 Railway Station, Sion. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 7 
 
 AVRANCHES. 
 Grand Hotel de France 
 et de Londres Reunis. 
 
 Most frequented and most comfortable. Good 
 Cooking. Renowned Cellar. Omnibus at Station. 
 Comfortable Apartments for Families. English 
 Papers. Splendid Sculptures. Carriages for 
 Mont St. Michel. Cook's Tourists' Hotel. 
 
 EMILE PINEAU, Proprietor. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 With numerous Maps and 
 Plans. 10s. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 Best Position in Baden-Baden. Proprietors, GR0SH0LZ BROTHERS. 
 
 THIS is one of the finest-built and best-furnished First- class 
 Hotels, main front with Morning Sun, situated in the new Promenade, 
 opposite the new General Post Office, nearest the Kursaal and the famous 
 Frederic Baths and Augusta Baths ; it commands the most charming views, 
 and is reputed to be one of the best Hotels in Germany. Principally 
 frequented by English and American Travellers. Highly recommended in 
 every respect, very moderate charges. Table d'Hote. English and other 
 Journals. Beautiful airy Dining-Rooms, Ladies' Drawing-Room, Reading 
 and Smoking Rooms. Pension. Reputation for Best Cooking and Wines. 
 Electric Light. Hydraulic Lift. Bath Rooms. Sanitary Arrangements perfect. 
 
 BALLATER, near BALMORAL CASTLE. 
 
 INVERCAULD ARMS HOTEL. 
 
 Principal and only licensed First-class Hotel. Patronised by Royalty. 
 Deeside, Royalty's favourite Scottish Resort, has exceptionally magnetic 
 attractions for Tourists and Health Seekers. 
 Good Golf Course. Posting. GEORGE WILLIAM PROCTOR. L\ss t l . 
 BARCELONA (SPAIN). 
 
 HOTEL D ORIENT 
 
 (RAMBLA DEL, CENTRO). 
 LTRST-CLASS HOTEL. Entirely refurnished and redecorated. Perfect Sanitation 
 1 Lighted throughout by Electricity. Luncheons and Dinners at separate tables 
 Moderate Charges. Omnibus and Interpreters meet all Trains and Steamers. 
 
 DURIO FRERES, Proprietors. 
 
 BASLE (Switzerland). 
 
 THREE KINGS HOTEL 
 
 Finest and most quiet situation on « the 
 River Rhine. 
 
 . 1 itto-Garage. 
 
 HOFER BROTHERS. 
 
 BASLE. 
 
 HOTEL SCHRIEOER ZUM 
 DEUTSCHEN HOF. 
 
 Opposite the Baden Railway Station. Com- 
 fortable AccommodatioQ. Moderate Charges. 
 Electric Light. M> E KNE, Proprietor. 
 
 BADEN-BADEN. 
 
 TERMINUS HOTEL. 
 
 Opposite the Railway Station (left hand). 
 Fine open situation. Every modern com- 
 fort. Terrace Restaurant. Strictly 
 Moderate Charges. Recommended. 
 
 E. BILHARZ. 
 
 BAVARIAN 1 
 
 HIGHLANDS. 
 
 ENGLISH PENSION, YILLA BETHELL, CARMISCH. 
 
 In the centre of this beautiful district. Every English comfort. Good Sitting 
 and Bed Rooms. Good Bathroom. Excellent Cuisine. Evening Dinner. Good 
 Library and Tennis Court. Easy Mountain Climbs, and Picnic Excursions to 
 all places of interest. Rail from Munich. Terms Moderate. Open from 
 1st June. Address, MRS. HENRY S. BETHELL. 
 
8 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 LAGO MAGGIORE.] BAVENO. [Simplcn Railway Line. 
 
 GRAND MOTE Hi BELLE YUE. 
 
 Finest situation on the Lake. Large Garden. Lawn Tennis. Lift. Railway Booking 
 Office. Carriages for the Simplon Pass. Steam Heating and Electric Light in every 
 Room. C. P JED ME TTZ. 
 
 4,000 Feet BEATENBERG (Bernese Oberland). 2,000 Feet 
 
 th a e bo s v e e a. GRAND HOTEL BEATENBERG t „o"Se. 
 
 Lift. KURHAUS. Lift. 
 
 First-class Hotel in the most prominent position. Three minutes from the Funicular Railway. 
 Splendid Mountain Scenery (Jungfrau, Munch. Eiger). Large Park and Wood-like Promenades. 
 Mountain Excursions. Electric Light. Please ask for Tariff and Illustrated Guide. 
 
 R. MtJLLER, Proprietor. 
 
 BERLIN. 
 
 HOTEL DER RE ICHSHOF. 
 
 WILHELMSTRASSE 70a (close to the Unter den Linden). 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. ELEGANT HOME for FAMILIES 
 Arrangements made. Inclusive Terms. 
 
 LEOPOLD SCHWARZ, Proprietor. 
 
 BEYROUT (Syria). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D'ORIENT 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, newly rebuilt, enlarged and fur- 
 nished with the latest improvements, situated in the best and 
 healthiest part of the city, offers every comfort. Commanding a fine 
 view of the Mountains, Bay, and Suburbs. With lofty, dry, and large 
 Bedrooms. Hot and Cold Baths. Reading and Smoking Rooms. 
 Excellent Cuisine and Service. Moderate Charges. Arrangements for 
 prolonged stay. Interpreters meet all steamers. All European lan- 
 guages spoken. 
 
 BIARRITZ. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA AND DE LA GRANDE PLA3F. 
 
 First-class Hotel, Imperial Grounds. 
 
 THE finest situation, opposite the British Cluh and the Grand Casino, on the way to the Golf 
 Grounds ; Lawn Tennis ; Lift. 150 Rooms and Salons full south and sea. Large Garden 
 Verandah; Carriages of all kinds; Bath Rooms; Electric Light; Calorifere. 
 
 J. FOUKiVEAU. 
 
 BIARRITZ. 
 
 HOTEL BIARRITZ SALINS. 
 
 Splendid situation, facing the " Thermes Salins." Five minutes from the "Plage." 
 Nearest Hotel to the Golf Grounds. Lift.. Electric Light. Calorifere. Large 
 Gardens. Verandah. Lawn Tennis. A. MOUSSIERE, Proprietor. 
 
 BIDEFORD. 
 
 NEW INN FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 The Oldest, Largest, and Principal Hotel in the Town. 
 
 The House is most pleasantly situated in a good central position, overlooking the picturesque 
 Torridge River, and is well known for its superior accommodation, combined with moderate charges. 
 
 Proprietor of the Clovellyand Bude Coaches in connection with the L. & S.W. Rly. Seats may 
 be secured at the Hotel Office, and the Coaches call en route. H. ASCOTT, Proprietor. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 9 
 
 BLAIR ATHOLL. 
 
 ATHOLL ARMS HOTEL. 
 
 ADJOINING THE STATION. FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 BLATR ATHOLL is much the nearest and most central point from which to visit Killiecrankie, 
 the Queen's View, Loch Tummel, Rannoch, Glen Tilt, Braemar, the Falls of Bruar, Garry Turn- 
 mel, and Fender ; the Grounds of Blair Castle, etc. ; and it is the most convenient resting-place 
 for breaking the long railway journey to and from the North of Scotland. 
 
 D. MACDONALD & SONS, Proprietors. 
 
 _____ _ 
 
 GRAND HOTEL 
 
 AND 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE BLOIS. 
 
 (NEAR THE CASTLE OF BLOIS.) 
 
 THIBAUDIER-GIGNON, Proprietor. 
 MOST HIGHLY RECOMMENDED TO FAMILIES. 
 
 Baths, Central Heating, Shower Batlis. 
 Reading* Room. Telephone. Dark Room for Photographers. 
 MOTOR CARS FOR HIRE. 
 
 Carriages for Chambord. Garage for Automobiles. English Spoken. 
 
 Steam Heating. Lift. 
 
 BONN. 
 
 Electric Light. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL ROYAL. 
 
 First Hotel in Town. Without Equal. Facing Rhine, seven Mountains, and Landing Tier. 
 Extensive English Garden overlooking the Rhine Valley. First-class French Cuisine. 
 Wholesale Wine Merchant. Advantageous Arrangements for prolonged s'ay. Centre for 
 Excursions. Hungarian Band. F. C. EISENMENGER, Manager. 
 
 BORDIGH ERA. 
 ALBRECHT'S . . . 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BR1 TANNIQUE. 
 
 Large Garden. Good Cookery. 
 
 Moderate Prices. 
 
 MURR AY'S HAND BOOKS. 
 
 Send for Complete List of English 
 and Foreign Handbooks to 
 EDWARD STANFORD, 
 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, London, W.C. 
 
 BOULOGNE-bUR-M ER. 
 
 HOTEL DISS BAINS. 
 
 (Open from April 1st to October 15th ) 
 
 First-class Hotel, highly recommended, situated on the Harbour and Rue Victor Hugo, opposite 
 the railway station and steamers, near the post office and Casino. Electric light. Bath room. 
 Accommodation for Motor Cars. Moderate Terms. 
 
 Mme. VEUVE LOUIS WALLET, Proprietress. 
 
 BOULOGNE-SUR-MER. 
 
 TEMPLE'S PRIVATE HOTEL. 
 
 (Open from April 1st to October 15th.) 
 
 Beautifully situated opposite the picturesque ramparts and gardens, good-class 
 English and American house. English sanitary arrangements. Bath Rooms. Good 
 Cuisine. Special Terms for Families. MODERATE PRICES. 
 
 LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS 
 
 Circuit d' Auvergne (France). 
 
 PALACE HOTEL 
 
 and VILLA MEDICIS. 
 
 Sanitary System (Gravition). Very comfortable. 
 Electric Light, Telephone, Lift, Omnibus, 
 Interpreter, Baths, Calorifere. Lawn Tennis. 
 Auto-Garage. A. SENNEGY, Proprietor. 
 
 LA BOURBOULE-LES-BAINS. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL de PARIS 
 
 The best in every respect. 
 
 150 Rooms. Modern Sanitation and Comfort. 
 Lift. Electric Light. Steam Heating. 
 
 Madame LEQUIME, Proprietress. 
 
10 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 3,400 feet above 
 the Sea. 
 
 BRUNIG 34 °L f e ee s fc e a a b0 e 
 
 GRAND HOTEL 
 
 & KURHAUS BRUNIG. 
 
 Raihvay Station between Lueerne and Inter- 
 laken. Comfortable Hotel. Electric Light. 
 Modern Sanitation. 
 SPLENDID HEALTH RESORT. 
 
 EDWARD STANFORD'S 
 
 ATLAS CATALOGUE, 
 
 Containing particulars of the best 
 
 English and Foreign Atlases. 
 
 Gratis on Application. 
 
 BRUNNEN, Lake of Lucerne. 
 
 HOTEL and PENSION VICTORIA. 
 
 Comfortably Furnished House, close to the Lake. Large shady Garden. Covered 
 Verandah. Vestibule. Magnificent View to the Mountains. Lake Bathing in front 
 of the Hotel. Electric Light. Telephone. Hot Baths. Auto-Garage. Exquisite 
 Cuisine and Drinks. Moderate Charges for Tourists. Pension from 6 frs. upwards. 
 
 BRUNSWICK. 
 
 HOTEL DEUTSCHES HAUS. 
 
 Prominent Central Location, opposite the Dome and the Castle 
 Dankwarderode, near the Residential Palace and the Theatre. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. NEWLY BUILT. 
 
 Openly situated on three sides. Fireproof. 
 
 EVERY MODERN COMFORT. MODERATE TERMS. 
 
 ROBERT SCHRADER. 
 BRUSSELS. 
 
 THE GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 GRILL ROOM. AMERICAN BAR. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. 
 EVERY MODERN COMFORT AT MODERATE PRICES. 
 
 J. CURTET HUGON, Manager. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OF 
 TRAVEL TALK. 
 
 ENGLISH. 
 
 FRENCH. 3/ U 
 0 //c GERMAN. 
 3/0 ITALIAN 
 
 BRUSSE LS Pla ce Royals. 
 
 EUROPE HOTEL 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. 
 
 BUXTON HYDROPATHIC, 
 
 BUXTON, DERBYSHIRE. 
 
 Telegraphic Address : "Comfortable, Buxton/' National Telephone, No. 5. 
 
 H. LOMAS, Managing Director. 
 260 ROOMS. 
 
 ELECTRIC LIGHT. ELEVATORS. BATHS OF EVER? DESCRIPTION. 
 
 ^Cinderella Dance each Saturday throughout the year. 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 11 
 
 CAEN. 
 
 # HOTEL D'ESPAGNE. * 
 
 FIRST CLASS. Very Comfortable. Recommended by Baedeker's 
 Guide. Moderate Charges. Breakfast, 2s. 3d, ; Dinner, 2s. 8d, wine, 
 cyder, and soda water included. Bedroom from 2s. lQd. The Proprietor speaks 
 English and German ; he is a Member of the Cyclists' Touring Club, London, 
 and Touring Club of France. Electric Light. E. RENAUX, Proprietor. 
 
 CANARY ISLANDS. 
 
 SANTA CATALINA HOTEL, 
 
 LAS PALMAS. 
 
 Facing the Sea. Surrounded by its own beautiful gardens. Sanitary arrangements perfect. 
 Private Sitting Rooms and complete Suites of Apartments. Resident English Physician and 
 Nurse. Near English Church, Golf Links, Tennis, Croquet, Billiards, etc. Electric Light. 
 Address— THE CANARY ISLANDS COMPANY, Limited, 5, Lloyd's Avenue, London, E.C. 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 ROSCHER'S HOTEL. 
 
 GOLDENER SCHILD AND ZWEI DEUTSCHE MONARCHEN. 
 With Dependence, " Haus Weisser Lowe," Marktplatz. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Finest position in Town. 200 Rooms and 
 Saloons. Concert Garden. Large Promenade Garden. Splendid 
 Dining Room with extensive Glass Verandah. Cafe, with Newspapers 
 in every language. Weekly, three concerts hy the Concert Orchestra. 
 Baths. Electric Light. Lift. Telephone. Carriages, Omnibus. 
 
 M. ROSCHER. 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 HOTEL K0N1GSVILLA 
 
 AND VILLA TERESA. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. Prominent central location, close to 
 the Springs and Baths, standing in its own grounds. 
 
 DINING, SMOKING, AND READING ROOMS. VERANDAH. LIFT. ELECTRIC 
 LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BATHS. 
 April and May, August and September— Reduced Prices. 
 
 Telegrams " Konicsvilla, Carlsbad." 
 
 CARLSBAD, BOHEMIA. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE, 
 With every comfort of modern times. 
 IN THE BEST PART OF THE TOWN AND NEXT 
 TO THE SPRINGS AND BATHS. 
 
 Excellent Kitchen. Large Stock of Choice Wines. 
 Lift. Electric Light. Telephone. 
 
 Telegrams: "KROH, CARLSBAD." 
 
12 MURBAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 First-class Family House. Beautiful Situation, facing Stadtpark, and close to 
 Springs and Baths. Verandah. Large Restaurant. Terrace, Splendid View. Pleading, 
 Smoking, and Billiard Rooms. Electric Light. Baths. Lift. Telephone. 
 
 A. WIESINGER, Proprietor. 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 HOTEL BRISTOL, 
 
 With Dependence: VILLA VICTORIA. * 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Best location, close to Springs and Baths. 
 Standing in its own grounds. 
 
 MUCH FREQUENTED BY ENGLISH AND AMERICANS. 
 Dining, Smoking, and Reading Rooms. 
 
 VERANDAH. LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. BATH. 
 
 Telegrams :— " BRISTOL, CARLSBAD." 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 SAVOY WEST-END HOTEL. 
 
 Villa Carlton. Villa Cleopatra. Villa Hohenburg. 
 
 Honoured by H.R.H. The Prince of Wales, H.I. H. Grand Duke of Russia, The Shah of 
 Persia, H.H. The Khedive of Egypt, &c. 
 
 THIS HOTEL is constructed and fitted ap on the most approved principles of 
 modern high-class Hotels. It is situated on the Schlossberg opposite the 
 American Park, in the healthiest position of Carlsbad, and is central to all the 
 different Springs. First-class Restaurant. Concerts. Ladies' Saloon. Reading and 
 Smoking Rooms. Garden. Verandah. Terrace. Electric Light. Lift. The new 
 Cleopatra Villa Annex of the Hotel is beautifully furnished and arranged in large 
 and small apartments. Also the Villa Carlton. Vienna Band. 
 
 AULICH & NDNGOVICH 
 (Connected with the Savoy, Continental, and d'Angleterre Hotels, Cairo, and Grand 
 Hotel, Helouan, and Hotel des Bains, Helouan, Egypt). 
 
 CARLSBAD. 
 
 WURTTEMBERGER HOF. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL on the Market Place. Opposite the Sprudel 
 and Marktbrunnen. Lift. Electric Light. Baths. Steam 
 Heating. Open all the year round. 
 
 CHAMONIX. 
 
 HOTEL PENSION BAIMAT, 
 
 Place de TEglise. 
 Splendid view of Mont Blanc. Special terms 
 for prolonged stay. Breakfast and Dinners at 
 anytime. Bedrooms from 1.50 fr. Bath Rooms. 
 Dark Room for Photography. English and 
 German spoken. Very moderate terms. Pen- 
 sion Terms for Families. 
 
 CAROLINE C. BALMAT, Proprietress. 
 
 CHAMONIX. 
 
 GD. HOTEL IMPERIAL 
 AND METRQPOLE. 
 
 The Best Managed Hotel. First-Class. 
 Lift. Baths. A. BECKER, Proprietor. 
 
 CHRISTIANIA (NORWAY). 
 
 HOTEL WESTMINSTER. 
 
 FIRST CLASS. Finest situation, on the Carl Johans Square. Newly furnished and 
 decorated Electric Light. Lift. Central Heating. Baths. Perfect Sanitation. 
 Single Rooms from kr. 2 to kr. 5. Double Rooms from kr. 3 50 to kr. 7, including 
 Li^ht and Attendance. Moderate Pension Prices. Miss PETERS, Proprietress. 
 English spoken. Deutsch gespochen. On parle Francais. 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 CONSTANTINE (ALGERIA). 
 
 THE GRAND HOTEL 
 
 FIRST CLASS. 
 
 Situated in the Centre of the Town. Highly recommended for its 
 Comfort and Good Management by Travellers and Tourists. Interpreter 
 and Omnibus meet all Trains. Telephone. Baths. Hotel Coupons 
 accepted. 
 
 MAURICE COULOT, Proprietor. 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE LONDRES. 
 
 HOTEL BRISTOL. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE & ROYAL 
 
 (jr. MISSIRIE). 
 
 HOTEL BYZANCE. 
 
 All these First-class Hotels have glorious views, and are replete with 
 every modern comfort. Drainage and Sanitary Arrangements on English 
 Principles. First-class French and English Cuisine. 
 
 Ij. ADAMOPOULOS, Proprietor. 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 CEIXTTHAIj HOTDEZHi, Raadhuspladsen 16. 
 
 First-class House. Newly fitted with every comfort of modern times. Situated one 
 minute from Central Railway Station, opposite Tivoli. First-class Restaurant and 
 very elegant Cafe "Paraplyen." Genuine Pilsen and Munich Beer from cask. 
 Rooms, including electric light and heating, from Kr. 2 upwards. Porter at Railway 
 Station. Moderate terms. PAUL MOLLER, Proprietor. 
 
 COPENHAGEN. 
 TURIST HOTEL 
 
 lYestre Boulevardi. 
 
 First-Class. Beautifully situated, overlooking 
 the Park, 3 minutes from Station and Tivoli. 
 100 Elegantly Furnished Rooms. Electric 
 Light. Lifts, Baths. Perfect Sanitary Arrange- 
 ments. Moderate Charges. 
 
 T. F. HANSEN, Proprietor. 
 
 COUTANCES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE FRANCE. 
 
 Centre of the town. First - class 
 House. Recommended to Families. 
 Member of the French, Belgian, and 
 English Touring Clubs. Omnibus 
 meets all Trains. 
 
 CORFU, GREECE. 
 
 HOTEL ST. GEORGE'S. 
 
 Winter Season. Open all the Year. 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. PRETTY VIEW OF THE SEA. 
 
 Patronised by the Elite of English and American Families. 
 On the Esplanade, and in the healthiest part of the Town. 
 
 PENSION MODERATE PRICE. PERFECT SANITATION. 
 Cook's Coupons Accepted. Telegrams: " Sangiorgio." 
 
 NICOLO MARTINI, Proprietor and Manager. 
 
MUBBAY'S riAttDBOOfc AIWEbTISEK. TTayT 
 
 DELHI (INDIA). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL. 
 
 Best and Cleanest First-class Family Hotel. 
 
 Constructed at the request of the general public and tourists to suit 
 the Indian climate. Entirely under European Management. Booms 
 can be secured by letter or telegram to the respective Manager of the 
 Post-Telegraph Office or Railway Station nearest to the Hotel. 
 Cook's Coupons Accepted. 
 
 
 T^TTWT A Ty T\ 10 Hours from Southampton 
 U 1 IN jHL Ia U • (via Saint Malo ). 
 
 The Most Fashionable Summer and Winter Resort in the 
 WEST OF FRANCE. Noted for its Mild Climate in Winter. 
 
 GOLF, TENNIS, CRICKET, CYCLING, ETC. 
 
 JOHN LE COCQ, Banker, House and Estate Agent, 
 
 DINARD. tS^- DINAN-PARAME. 
 
 JL/ JLJL iIAAAJL/ l at, iSriaC* X/AAIAJLAI X 1 1111 11111-1 I 
 
 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE 
 
 WELL= KNOWN SELECT HOTEL. 
 
 UNIQUE POSITION on the River, facing the ROYAL 
 
 CASTLE, OPERA, Cathedral, and Picture Gallery. 
 LIFT. ELECTRIC LIGHT THROUGHOUT. 
 Beautiful Garden with Terraces. Baths on each Floor. 
 
 R. RONNEFELD, General Manager. 
 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 CONTINENTAL HOTEL. 
 
 Opposite the Principal Railway Terminus. First Class Hotel with 
 beautiful large Garden. Electric Light. Steam Heating. Lift. 
 Table d'Hote at Separate Tables. Bedrooms from Mk. 2*50. Pension 
 Rates from Mk. 7. 
 
 DRESDEN. 
 
 WEBER'S HOTELS. 
 
 Splendidty situated in the centre of the Town 
 with a beautiful yiew. The House is heated 
 by steam. Reading and Smoking Rooms. 
 Electric Light. Pension Arrangements. Mod- 
 erate Charges. Lift. Baths. 
 
 B. WEBER, Proprietor. 
 
 Stanford's Compendium of 
 
 Geography and Travel 
 
 (New Issue). 
 In Thirteen Yolumes. 1 5s. each. 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY^ HANDBOOK ADVEKTIHWU. 
 
 X> UBL1N. 
 
 C harming situation, overlooking Stephen's 
 Green Park. Most Central Position. 
 
 Moierate Charges. 
 
 Electric Light. 
 
 jssr 
 
 HOTEL. 
 
 Hydraulic Passenger Elevator. 
 
 WOODBANK 
 
 DUMFRIES. 
 
 MANSION 
 
 HOTEL. 
 
 Replete with every refined luxury. Built and designed for private use. Facing the 
 River Nith. Lovely aspects. Fully Licensed. Charming Lawns and Gardens, with 
 Conservatories, surround. Three minutes from Station. Private Approach. Terms 
 Extremely Moderate. Garage for Motors. Apply, MANAGER. 
 
 DUSSELDORF (Rhine). 
 
 HOTEL MONOPOLE 
 
 Centre of the Town. First - Class. 
 Rooms and Pension. Moderate Price. 
 
 FRITZ ZEUTZSCHEL, Proprietor. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 IRELAND. 
 
 Sixth Edition. 
 43 Maps and Plans. 9s. 
 
 EISENACH, THURINGIA- 
 
 HOTEL FURSTENHOF. 
 
 Newest, Largest, and most Luxurious Hotel of Eisenach. Every possible 
 Comfort. Grand Location, overlooking the Wartburg and adjoining the 
 Forests. Large Terrace. Telegram*: " Fiirstenhof, Eisenach." 
 
 EMS. 
 
 BATH EMS. "THE ROE MER BAD. 5 ' 
 
 United "Hotels and Baths, 
 PRINCE OF WALES, OF PARIS, AND ROEMERBAD. 
 First-class Family Hotel. Splendid Situation, opposite the Kursaal and Kurgarten. 
 Baths. Inhaling Institution. Lifts. Electric Light throughout. Large 
 Garden. CHARLES RUCKER, Proprietor. 
 
 ENGELBERG, 
 
 NEAR LUCERNE (SWITZERLAND). 3,200 FEET ABOVE SEA- LEVEL. 
 Season May — October. 
 
 PARK HOTEL & KURHAUS SONNENBERG. 
 
 THE property of Mr. H. Haefelin. Summer stay. Unrivalled 
 
 by its grand Alpine scenery, clear bracing air, equable temperature. Recom- 
 mended by the highest medical authorities. I he Sonnenberg, in the best, finest, 
 and healthiest situation, facing the Titlis and the glaciers, is one of the most com- 
 fortable and best managed hotels in Switzerland. Own extensive Park. Lawn 
 Tenuis. Lift. Orchestra. Hydropathic Establishment and Baths in the Hotel. 
 Specially adapted for a stay in May and June because of its sheltered position. 
 Terms, 8 to 15 frs. daily. Resident* Physician, Dr. Med. BALZBB ; in winter in 
 Ajaccio. 
 
 ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 Large Airy Dining Room. 
 Well-known Hotel, with good Accommodation, containing 100 Beds. 
 
 Conversation Saloon, Reading and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light throughout. Pension : 
 6| to 9 Irs. a day, everything included. Reduced prices in May, June, and September. 
 Omnibus at Railway Station. CATTANI BROTHERS, Proprietors. 
 
16 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 HOTEL NATIONAL 
 
 Open May 15th to September 30th. > 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. Splendid situation. Shady Garden. 150 
 Beds. Spacious Dining Rooms. Elegant Saloons. Lift. Electric Light throughout. 
 Moderate charges. Omnibus at Railway Station. EDMUND MULLER, Proprietor. 
 
 ENGELBERG, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 KURHAUS HOTEL TITLIS. 
 
 TORST-CLASS HOTEL, best in the valley, situated in the middle of 
 an extensive garden. 240 Beds. Large sitting-rooms. Lift. Elec- 
 tric Light in all the rooms. English Chapel in the garden. Good 
 attendance. Moderate charges. Cook's tickets taken. Open from 1st 
 May until 1st October. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL AND KURANSTALT. 
 
 This new First-class Hydropathic Establishment, with 250 Beds, two Lifts 
 Electric Light in all the rooms, Central Heating, opposite to the Hotel Titlis 
 will be open on the 1st June. The building is fitted up on the most recent 
 hygienic principles. The various medical appliances fulfil the utmost 
 demands of modern science, and furnish everything necessary for hydropathic, 
 mechanical, and electric treatment. For illustrated prospectus and tariff 
 please apply to the Proprietors — CATTANI BROTHERS. 
 
 EXETER, DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 Pople's New London Hotel 
 
 PATRONISED BY THE ROYAL FAMILY. 
 Adjoining Northernhay Park and near the Cathedral. 
 A charming 18th Century Hotel, with . every modern comfort and 
 luxury. Electric Light. Beautiful covered Courtyard (with fernery 
 
 and fountain in centre) as Lounge. 
 Night Porter. Motor Garage. Posting. Hotel Omnibuses and Cabs at Stations. 
 
 FECAMP, NORMANDY. 
 
 HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE 
 
 On the Plage. Near the Casino. 
 Telephone. Beautiful Sea View. 
 
 Pension from 9 Francs. English Spoken. 
 
 FECAMP, NORMANDY. 
 
 Grand Hotel dies Bains 
 and de Londres. 
 
 First-class Hotel, on the Beach. The most 
 important facing the Sea, near the Casino and 
 the Jetty. Pension from 9 frs. Telephone. 
 English spoken. Open from June 15th to 
 Octoher 1st. 
 
 FLORENCE. 
 
 P^lIiA.CI! HOTEL. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL is beautifully situated in the historic Palace Lanfredin 
 (now Benini) which is registered among the masterpieces built in the 14th and 15th centuries. 
 It has been completely restored, and offers a most artistic general effect. Central fashionable 
 position on the Arno, with many full south rooms. Highly recommended for its genuine home 
 comfort and excellent Cuisine. Lift. Baths on each floor. Electric Light and Central Heating 
 throughout. Terrace. Winter Garden. Perfectly English Sanitary arrangement. 
 
 Proprietor-G. BENZNI. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 17 
 
 FRAN KFORT-ON -THE- MAIN. 
 
 HOTEIi 13X3 RUSSIE 
 
 Opposite the Central Railway Station. 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 Lift. Electric Light. Steam Keating'. 
 K. FRANK, Proprietor. 
 
 FRANKFORT-ON-MAIN. 
 
 HOTEL GERJYEANIA. 
 
 Immediately opposite the Right-hand Entrance to the Railway Station. Beautiful Garden. 
 60 Rooms, 90 Beds. Every Modern Comfort. Electric Light, Central Heating, Baths, Lift. 
 Nicely Furnished Rooms from 2.50 Marks upwards, Light, Attendance, and Heating included. 
 Tariff in every room. Managed hy the Proprietor, Fred Schmutz, many years Head Wait er 
 at Hotel de Paris, Strassburg, Alsace. 
 
 FRAN KFORT-ON -THE-MAIN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL NATIONAL. 
 
 (OPPOSITE THE CENTRAL RAILWAY STATION.) 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL. 
 
 MODERATE CHARGES. TARIFF IN EVERY ROOM. 
 ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. J. FECHT, Proprietor. 
 
 FRANZ ENSBAD. 
 
 THE FIRST MUD BATH IN THE WORLD. 
 
 Possesses the strongest Chalybeate Springs and Digestive Ferruginous 
 Alkaline, Glauber's Salt, and Lithia Waters. 
 
 Foup large Bath Establishments with Natural Carbonic 
 Acid, Chalybeate, Mineral, Brine, and Stream Baths ; Thera- 
 peutic Mud Baths ; Steam and Hot Air Baths and Electric Light 
 and Tub Baths. Medico-Mechanical Institute. Inhalatorium. 
 
 Cure for Ansemia, Chlororis (Green Sickness), Scrofula, Rheumatism, 
 Gout, Catarrh of the Respiratory, Urinary and Digestive Organs, 
 Habitual Constipation, Nervous Diseases, Neurasthenia, Hysteria, 
 Women's Diseases, Wasting Diseases, Cardiac Diseases (Weakness, 
 Inflammation, Neurosis, and Fatty Degeneration of the Heart). 
 
 The liest Jctiown Batlis in Austria for Heart Diseases. 
 
 SEASON— May 1 to September 30. 
 
 PROSPECT I W FREE. 
 The powerful Lithia Water of the " Nataliequelle," the Ferruginous 
 Water of the " Hercules " and " Stephanie " Springs, and the Mineral 
 Acid Water of the " Francis" Spring, and of the Salt and Meadow 
 Springs, the medicinal properties of which are well known, 
 are forwarded to all parts of the world. 
 
 For information respecting the Cure, address the MA YOB. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL NATIONAL. HOTEL DES BERGUES. 
 
 HOTEL METROPOLE. 
 
 These three First-class Houses, in finest situation on the Lake, have every 
 modern comfort. 
 HOTEL DU LAC— Best Second-class House. 
 
18 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BELLEVUE HEH 
 
 QUAI DU LEMAN. Unique Position. First Class. 100 Rooms and 10 Salons. 
 New House, built for an Hotel and provided with latest improvements of hygiene 
 and modern comfort. Double communicating doors to every Room. Unequalled 
 and extensive view from all the Rooms. Large Terrace on the border of the Lake. 
 Garden. Lawn Tennis. Moderate terms. Arrangements according to season 
 from 8 francs. JEAN SUTTERLIN, Proprietor. 
 
 GENEVA. 
 
 HOTEL PENSION FLEISCHMANN 
 
 Bond Point de Palainplais. 
 
 Near the Bastion Park. Fine situation. 
 MODERATE CHARGES. 
 Electric Light. Baths. 
 
 JWURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 "The best Swiss guide book pub- 
 lished in English." 
 
 Manchester Guardian. 
 
 GENOA (GENOVA). 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE GENES- 
 
 Full South. Best Part of the Town. 
 
 Patronised by Royalty and best English and 
 American Families. 
 
 ALL MODERN COMFORT. 
 
 GENOA, ITALY. 
 
 HOTEL CON TINENTAL. 
 
 FIRST CLASS. Modern Installation. Close to Cook's and North German Lloyd 
 Offices. Large Garden on the Fourth Floor, with Splendid Panorama. Quiet 
 Rooms with Dressing-room attached. Apartments with Baths. 
 
 MELANO BROTHERS, Proprietors. 
 Summer Season. GRAND HOTEL— Baths of Montecatini— near Florence. 
 CHLORINE— SALINE WATERS. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 HOTEL ROYA.L. 
 
 (iLQITIXiiSL. ) 
 
 The nearest Hotel to the Railway Station (close by) and the Landing Pier. No 
 noise of Trains. Exceedingly well situated. Very quiet Bedrooms. Perfect 
 Sanitary arrangements. Moderate charges. RODINO BROTHERS, Proprietors. 
 
 GENOA. 
 
 MOTEL SMITH. 
 
 EVERY MODERN COMFORT. PENSION FROM 8 FRANCS. 
 
 Restaurant. Electric Light. Lift. Moderate Prices. 
 
 GLION. 
 
 Grand Hotel du Righi Vaudois Glion. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, enlarged and entirely renewed, with the best 
 comfort. 150 Rooms. One of the finest situations in Switzerland. Central 
 Heating. Moderate Charges. Open all the year, p, RIECHELMANN, Proprietor. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 19 
 
 THE HAGUE, HOLLAND. 
 
 Specially patronised by the leading members of English and American society. 
 Luxuriously Furnished Suites of Private Rooms with Bath Rooms. 100 Bedrooms, 
 mostly all with Bathroom adjoining. Beautiful Palm Room and Ladies' Drawing 
 Room. American Bar. Every modern comfort. Service de Luxe and unrivalled 
 Cuisine. Motor Cars always ready for excursions. Tulip season, April— May. 
 Telegraphic Address : " Haller, Hague." Write for Illustrated Booklet, " How to 
 Visit Holland," to the Proprietor, C. T. Haller. THE HAGUE— THE HUB OF 
 HOLLAND. Attractions : Innumerable Healthy Recreations. Art Treasures. 
 Fashionable Society. Magnificent Trees. Pretty Lakes. Cool and Leafy Promen- 
 ades. Lovely Wooded Walks and Drives. Many places of interest in the vicinity. 
 A short tram ride to Scheveningen. 
 
 HANOVER. 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL. 
 
 first-class family house. 
 Patronised by Royalty and best English and 
 American Society. 
 
 Only Hotel in Hanover with Large Motor- Car Garage. 
 OPPOSITE THE STATION. ALL MODERN COMFORTS. 
 
 HARROGATE. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL stands in its own extensive Grounds, 
 and is situated in the best part of High Harrogate, facing the Stray. South 
 aspect. Tennis and Croquet Grounds adjoin the Hotel. The nearest Hotel to the 
 Golf Links. Carriages to the Wells and Baths free of charge. Motor Garage and 
 Inspection. Petrol. For Terms, apply THE MANAGER. 
 
 UAVRP BrORMABTOY HOTEI». 
 
 AAi'V V AAJ~li Io9) io8j rue DE PARIS (Centre). FIRST CLASS. 
 
 Lift. Central Heating. Electric Light. Restaurant a la C arte. \\ ell -stocked Wine 
 Cellar. Breakfast, 2 fr. 5 c. Table d'Hdte, 3 fr. 50 c. Large Smoking Hall. English 
 Newspapers. Music and Reading Rooms. Interpreter speaks all Languages. 
 Omnibus. A. MORE AT, Proprietors 
 
 Only Hotel in Havre with Lift and Central Heating. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL EUROPE. 
 
 fTlHIS most charming FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, situated in 
 best part of town, three minutes from Station, is arranged to afford 
 visitors every convenience and comfort. Apartments with Bath. Open- 
 air Restaurant on Terrace. Garden Concerts every night in Summer. 
 Excellent Garage for Motors. Arrangements made for stay. Central 
 Heating throughout. 
 
 EUG. KUPFER, Proprietor. 
 
MU-RKAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEBTISEE. 
 
 May, 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL S C H EIEDE R. 
 
 Oldest Hotel in the Town. Entirely Renovated. Nearest to the Station and the 
 Promenade, 'Surrounded by a Large Garden. Covered Verandah. Rooms from 2.50 
 to 4 Marks, including Light and Attendance. Arrangements for Prolonged Stay. 
 Electric Light. Auto Garage. c S UTTERLIN, Proprietor. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 DARMSTADTER HOF. 
 
 Four minutes from the Station. Rooms 
 from M. 2.20 ; Dinner, M. 2.50. Electric 
 Light. Bath. Steam Heating. 
 
 NEW ISSUE. 
 
 STANFORD'S TOURISTS' 
 CATALOGUE. 
 
 A Concise List of the best Maps and 
 Books, with 7 Index Maps. 
 GRATIS ON APPLICATION. 
 
 HEIDELBERG. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL in every respect. Surrounded by Gardens. 
 Exceedingly well situated. Beautiful Verandah and large Garden 
 at the back of the House. Advantageous arrangements made with 
 Families intending a long stay. Central Hot- Water Heating. Electric 
 Light. Lift. Baths. Highly recommended. Garage. Concert in 
 the " Stadt Garden " close to the Hotel every evening in the Summer. 
 
 CARL MULLER, Proprietor. 
 SWITZERLAND, Great Appenzell, 
 
 2*700 feet above Sea-level. 
 Beautiful Village, overlooking the Lake of Constance. Exquisite Health Resort, bracing climate 
 
 FREIHOF and SCHWEIZERHOF, First Class Hotels, 
 
 EXTENSIVE own Grounds, Shady Park, wonderful view. Affords every Home Comfort. First 
 i rate Cuisine. Sanitary arrangements." Lawns for Tennis, Croquet, Bowls. Dances. Casino 
 with Daily Concerts. English Service. Goats' Whey. Baths and Hydropathic Establishment. 
 Milk from own farm. Electric Light throughout. Pension from 8.—. Season, May-October. 
 Please write for Pamphlet. Cook's Coupons. Prop. Altherr-Simond. 
 
 HILDESHEIM. 
 
 HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE. 
 
 FIHST- CLASS HO USE. 
 
 Situated in the Centre of the Town. Baths in the house. 
 Omnibus at the Station. Central Heating Apparatus. 50 Eooms 
 and Saloons, fitted up with every Comfort of Modern Times. 
 English Newspapers. C. HEERDT. 
 
 HILDESHEIM (HANOVER). 
 
 HOTEL WIENER HOF. 
 
 Central Heating. Electric Light. Table 
 d'Hdte optional. Renowned Cuisine. In 
 the Centre of all the "Sights." 
 
 W. OHLMER, Proprietor, 
 
 Mu rray's Handboo ks. 
 
 " Every traveller knows or ought 
 to know Murray's Handbooks." — 
 
 Westminster Gazette. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER, 
 
 21 
 
 HOMBURG (BATHS OF). 
 
 ENCLISCHER HOF. 
 
 Near the Station and Park. A very handsome 
 comfortable house, not too large. Best English 
 society. Strictly moderate terms. Pension. 
 
 11. WEBER. 
 
 HOMBURG (BATHS OF). 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE. 
 
 First class in every respect, facing Kurgarten 
 and Bathhouse. High and quiet position ; a\\ 
 modern improvements. For particulars apply 
 to W. FISCHER, Proprietor. 
 
 HYERES. 
 
 RIVIERA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES PALMIERS. 
 
 First-class. Golf Links Hotel. Largest and best situated House 
 in Hyeres. Close to the English and Catholic Churches. Full 
 South. Large Garden, view over the Sea and Islands. Electric 
 Light throughout. Central Heating. Perfect Sanitary arrange- 
 ments. Drawing, Smoking Rooms, full South. French and English 
 Billiards. Baths. Lift. Tennis Courts. Dark Room. Shelter for 
 Motor Cars and Bicycles. Carriages. 
 
 Pension Terms from 9 /Vs., according to Booms. 
 Branch Hotel. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL METR0P0LE. 
 
 Situated adjoining a fine Park, and in the most sheltered part 
 of the town. Splendid view over the Sea and Islands of Hyeres. 
 Full South. Large Hall. Five o'clock Tea. Orchestra. Lift. 
 Baths. Heated by warm air. Garage for Automobiles. 
 
 Terms Moderate: For all informatian apply to — 
 
 E. CASTUEIL, Director and Proprietor. 
 
 HYERES. 
 
 ZICK'S GOLF HOTEL 
 
 Above Golf Links (18 holes). Considered best Links 
 on the Riviera. 
 
 ILFRACOM BE. 
 
 GRANVILLE 
 
 BOAEDING HOUSE. 
 Grand Sea Views. Comfort, Sociability, Good 
 Cooking. Bijou Guide gratis. 
 W. R. FOSTER, Proprietor. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 CORNWALL 
 
 7 Maps and Plans. 6s. 
 
 ORDNANCE SURVEY. 
 
 ORDNANCE MAPS— A Resume of the Publications of the Ordnance 
 and Geological Surveys of England and Wales, with Index Maps to the 
 1-inch surveys, and a Supplement on Methods of Map Mounting. 56 pp. 
 demy 8vo., in Wrapper. Gratis on application. 
 
 LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, LONG ACRE, W.C. 
 
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEBTISEB. May, 
 
 ISTIffSBRUCK. 
 
 Thirty-one hours from London, via Arlberg, to Innsbruck. Through tickets 
 and luggage registered through. Twenty-three hours from Paris. 
 
 THE BEAUTIFUL AND SHELTERED situation of 
 INNSBRUCK renders it a very agreeable place 
 of residence all the year round. In spring as Avell as 
 in autumn it is especially to be recommended as a stopping 
 place between the different watering places. It is also 
 to be recommended after a sojourn at the sea-side. 
 
 INNSBRUCK is the centre from which many splendid 
 excursions can be made in every direction, and of any 
 length. Attractive walks in the immediate neighbour- 
 hood of the town and the different elevations. 
 
 The climate in Winter— dry, strengthening, sunny, jree 
 from cold winds and fogs— has attracted many visitors of 
 late years, and among those who have found the greatest 
 relief are weak, convalescent, nervous, appetiteless, and 
 sleepless persons. 
 
 NiBi— University, Grammar, Mxisic, and other schools. 
 Private Lessons of every kind are available, so that studies 
 can be continued and the education of children carried on. 
 
 Hotel Tyrol. 
 
 FIRST CLASS. 
 
 NEW SUITES OF 
 
 APARTMENTS, 
 
 ALL FIREPROOF 
 
 (Syst$me Hemiebrique). 
 
 HOT-WATER HEATING. 
 
 TWO LIFTS. 
 Lawn Tennis. 
 
 MOTOR CAR SHELTER, Ac. 
 
 CARL LANDSEE, 
 
 Proprietor. 
 
 HOTEL 
 DE L'EUROPE. 
 
 First-class 
 
 Establishment 
 Affords every Modern Comfort. 
 
 Electric Light in Every Room. 
 STEAM AND OTHER BATHS. 
 Anton Hanreich, Proprietor. 
 
 HOTEL 
 GOLDENE SONNE 
 
 (Opposite the Station). 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 RENOWNED FOR ITS SUPERIOR 
 CUISINE AND WINE. 
 
 "Restaurateur" of the South 
 Railway Station. 
 
 CARL BEER, Proprietor. 
 
 RICHLY ILLUSTRATED GUIDES of INNSBRUCK sent on application by the 
 Proprietors of above Hotels, free of charge. 
 
1905. MUREA.Y-S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 23 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 REGINA = HOTEL, JUNGFRAUBLICK. 
 
 Ten minutes from the Station and Kursaal. 
 
 Highly respected and fashionable First-class Family Hotel. Situated 
 in the highest and healthiest part of Interlaken. Beautiful views of 
 the Glaciers and the Lakes. Very quiet position. Dust-free. Extensive 
 walks in a large fir-tree forest. Great improvements. Suites with 
 Private Baths. Electric Light in every room. Central Heatiog. Lift. 
 Lawn Tennis. High-class Restaurant with large Terrace. 
 
 J. OESCH, Proprietor and Manager. 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 SCHWEIZERHOF— 
 
 HOTEL SUISSE. 
 
 First Class. Best position 
 on the Grand Promenade. 
 Splendid views of Jungfrau 
 and Alps. Lift. Electric 
 Light. Central Heating. 
 Apartments and Rooms 
 with private baths. First- 
 class Restaurant. Terrace. 
 Garage. Personally con- 
 ducted by the Proprietors, 
 E. STRUBIN & WIRTH. 
 
 INTERLAKEN. 
 
 Grand Hotel des Alpes. 
 
 First-class Old English Hotel. Best Position. 
 Opposite the Jungfrau. All Modern Comforts. 
 Moderate Terras. Conducted hy the Proprietor 
 J. MATT I. 
 
 IX TEH I. A KE X. 
 
 HOTEL DU NORD. 
 
 Near the English and Scotch 
 Churches. Moderate Terms. 
 
 J. MAIRER, Proprietor. 
 
 INVERNESS. 
 
 WAYERLEY 
 
 HOTEL. 
 
 (One minute's walk from the Railway Station.) 
 Telegrams : " Waverley." Telephone No. 0179. 
 
 Pcr ier cf the Hotel attends all trains, and an Omnibus runs in connec- 
 tion with the Caledonian Canal steamers. D. DAVIDSON, Proprietor. 
 
 ISCHL (salzkammergut). 
 
 HOTEL KAISERIN ELIZABETH. 
 
 Modern Comfort. Fine open position 
 on the River Trann. Opposite the 
 Promenade and near the Knrhans Park. 
 Own Private Fishing. 
 
 KARL SEEAUER, Proprietor. 
 
 JVIURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 Eighth Edition. 57 Maps and Plans. 
 Price 10s. 6d. 
 
 KISSINGEN, SPA. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA & KAISERHOF. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 Unrivalled for its open situation— opposite the Kurgarden and Springs. All modern comfort 
 and sanitary arrangements. Electric Light and Lift. Beautiful own Garden. 200 Rooms and 
 Salons. Especially patronised by English and American Visitors. 
 
24 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 KISSINGEN, SPA. 
 
 Completely Reconstructed and Renewed. 
 English and American Residence. Electric Light in every room. Electric Lift. 
 Excellent Sanitary Arrangements. Baths. Large Garden. 
 Fine Open Situation opposite the Springs and Kurgarden. 140 Rooms. 
 
 A KISSINGEN, SPA. 
 
 HOTEL ENGLISGHER HOF. 
 
 In immediate vicinity of the Kurgarden, Springs, and Baths. Completely reconstructed and 
 renewed. Comfortable Rooms, only Ground Floor and First Floor. Full Board if desired from 6/- 
 upwards per day arid person. Electric Light. Large shady Garden. Hotel Omnibus at Station. 
 Bicycle and Automobile Hall. CH. L. ZAPF, Proprietor. 
 
 KREUZNACH. 
 
 HOTEL ROYAL ET D'ANGLETERRE. 
 
 This magnificent first-class Hotel, now entirely rebuilt and newly furnished, offers every modern 
 comfort. Beautiful situation opposite the Curpark. A well-known House. Visited by Royalty. 
 Large shady Garden and Lawn Tennis Court. Mineral Baths. Lift. Electric Light. Perfect 
 Sanitary Arrangements. All kinds of Sport. Shooting and Fishing. Very moderate charges and 
 Pension arrangements. Omnibuses at both Stations. P. EAUM, Proprietor. 
 
 KREUZNACH. "7 
 
 HOTEL ORAN I E N HOF (First Class). 
 
 FINEST Situation in its own extensive grounds; a well-known and extensively patronised 
 Establishment. Visited by Royalty. Every English comfort. Electric Light. Lift. 
 Lawn Tennis. Conversation, Reading and Billiard Rooms. Mineral Baths. Shooting and 
 Fishing. MODERATE CHARGES. 
 
 H. D. ALTEN (formerly at Meurice's, Paris). 
 
 LAUSANNE. 
 
 GD. HOTEL RICHE-MONT. 
 
 First-class. Lawn Tennis; motor-car garage. "Punch," 3rd Sept., 1898, said: "I met with 
 Comfort, Courtsey. and Capital Cuisine " when staying with Mr. G-. A. FABESCH, Manager, S.E. 
 Hotel, Boulogne, late Continental, Paris ; Midland Grand, London. 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 BRAG ANZ A HOTEL. 
 
 THIS well-known FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, lately renovated by the Royal 
 House of Braganza, and fitted up by the new Proprietor, Victor C. Sassetti, is 
 highly recommendable for its large, airy, and comfortable Apartments, commanding the 
 most extensive and picturesque views of the River Tagus, as well as of Lisbon. Superior. 
 Cuisine and carefully selected Wines. 
 
 LISBON, 
 
 GRAND HOTEL CENTRAL. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 Magnificent View. Immediately facing the Tagus. 
 Recently Redecorated and Furnished with special regard to Family Accommodation. 
 
 Excellent French Cuisine and Extensive Stock of carefully selected Wines. 
 Dark Eoom for Photographers fully fitted up. Lift. Hot and Cold 
 Baths. Drawing, Reading, and Reception Rooms. Terms Moderate. 
 
 All Languages spoken. Pension. 
 COIFFEUR IN THE HOUSE. OMNIBUS AT THE STATION. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 25 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 HOTEL DURAND (English Hotel) 
 
 ZARGO DO QUINTELLA. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS ESTABLISHMENT. 
 
 Situated in the most central part of the Town. 
 Highly recommended for its comfort and moderate 
 charges. Reading Room. Several languages spol. en. 
 
 New Edition. 
 
 TRAVEL TALK. 
 
 Price 3s. 6d. 
 
 LIVERPOOL. 
 
 "The SHAFTESBURY, 
 
 Mount Pleasant. 
 
 A First-class Temperance House, central 
 and quiet, a few mmutes'walk from Central 
 and Lime St. Stations. Trams from Landing 
 Stage and Castle St. (near Exchange Stationi 
 pass the door Electric Light throughout. 
 Good Stock Room. Night Porter. 
 
 Moderate Tariff. Good Stock Rooms. 
 
 Telephone : 2244 Royal. 
 Telegrams : 
 Shaftesbury Hotel, Liverpool. 
 
 LOCARNO. 
 
 the GRAND HOTEL 
 
 TERMINUS of the GOTHARD 
 RAILWAY on LAGO MAGGIORE. 
 
 BEST STOPPING PLACE ON THE 
 
 ITALIAN LAKES. 
 26 hrs. from London. 17 hrs. from 
 Paris. 4 hrs. from Milan. 6 hrs. 
 from Genoa. 4 hrs. from Lucerne. 
 OPEN the whole year. Most luxurious and comfortable home for all 
 the seasons in Italy or Switzerland. Patronised by all the Royal Families. Unrivalled 
 situation in the finest climate of Europe; without snow, wind, or fog, but with plenty of 
 sunshine. Entirely adapted lor winter residence. Pronounced by the 
 body Physician of H.M. The Kins? of Bavaria and University— Prof. Aloys Martin — to be 
 the healthiest and best All Seasons Resort. Beautiful walks and mountain excursions. 
 English Church, Doctor, Society. Lift. Private Steamer and Carriages for visitors. 
 Exquisite Cuisine. Moderate charges. Electric Light in every room. (n.lf. Tennis. 
 - Messrs. BALL I, Proprietors. 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 r-»v ■ l i K i ■— ^-^-vr-Nr-v»/-N. A Pure Solution. 
 
 Dl N N EFORD 8 11 A ilitv 1 the Stomach. 
 
 MAGNESIA 
 
 For Heartburn and Headache. 
 For Gout and Indigestion. 
 Safest Aperient for Delicate Constitu- 
 tions, Ladies, Children, and Infants. 
 Sold by Chemists throughout the World. 
 
 THIRD EDITION, REVISED AND ENLARGED. 
 
 STANFORD'S LONDON ATLAS OF UNIVERSAL GEOGRAPHY. 
 
 Exhibiting the Physical and Political Divisions of the 
 various Countries of the World. 
 
 One Hundred and Ten Maps, with a list of Latitudes and Longitudes, 
 
 Price £12. 
 
 Detailed Prospectus Gratis on Application. 
 
 LONDON : EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, LONG ACRE, W.C. 
 
26 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 Hotel Schweizerhof 
 
 AND 
 
 Hotel Luzernerhof 
 
 FIRST - CLASS HOTELS. 
 
 IN THE BEST SITUATION ON THE LAKE AND PROMENADE. 
 60 0 BEDS. 
 
 Private Bath Rooms. Lift and Electric Light in both Hotels. 
 
 ARRANGEMENT EN PENSION WITH PROTRACTED STAY 
 (EXCLUSIVE OF JULY AND AUGUST). 
 
 SCHWEIZERHOF OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 
 
 WITH GOOD WARMING SYSTEM. 
 
 Proprietors: HAUSER BROTHERS. 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 HOTEL DU LAC. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 Magnificent Establishment, recently enlarged by a New Wing of 100 Rooms. 
 300 Beds. Splendid situation on the Lake, where the River Reuss issues from it. 
 Next to the General Post Office. Close to the Railway Station and Steamboat Pier. 
 This Establishment has every modern comfort. Lift ; Electric Light ; Central Steam 
 Heating. Baths de Luxe, open from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Beautiful Marble Vestibule 
 and Staircase in the Italian Renaissance. 
 
 PENSION ARRANGEMENTS FOR A LONG STAY. 
 
 OPEN ALL THE YEAR ROUND. 
 
 Proprietors: SPILLMANN & SICKKRT. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 27 
 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 HOTEL SWAN AND RIGI. 
 
 First Class House of old reputation, with finest situation on the Quay, specially 
 patronised by English and Americans. Open all the year. Electric Light through- 
 out. Lift in both Houses. Every modern comfort. Meals served at separate 
 tables. Restaurant with open Terrace. 
 
 THE RIGI HOTEL 
 
 Entirely Rebuilt and Newly Furnished. Ready for 1905. 
 
 Private Bathrooms. HAEFELI BROS., Proprietors. 
 
 LUCERNE (near). 
 
 PALACE AND GRAND HOTEL AXEN-FELS. 
 
 250 BEDS. Above Lake of Lucerne. 2,200 ft. above Sea. 
 
 THE LEADING HOUSE FOR ENGLISH AND AMERICAN FAMILIES, 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, quite up-to-date. Most elegant Public 
 Rooms. Large Lounge and Terraces. The Park of Axen-Fels is 
 the prettiest in Switzerland, with nearly a mile frontage to the Lake. 
 Electric Railway from Brunnen. 
 
 P. SCHNACK, Proprietor. 
 LUCERNE. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA 
 AND D'ANGLETERRE. 
 
 FIRST CLASS, ON NEW BOULEVARD PILATUS. 
 
 150 BED3 from frs. 3.50 upward. Electric Light and Hot water heating 
 throughout. Full South. View on the Mountains. 
 
 Large new Hall. Table <V Hote at separate tables. 
 
 First Class "RESTAURANT FRANCAIS." 
 
 ALB. RIEDWEG-, Proprietor. 
 
 S? LUGANO (SWITZERLAND). 
 
 HOTEL BEAU - REGARD 
 
 AND CONTINENTAL. 
 
 Near Station and English Church. 
 Splendid Situation. Large Park. Most 
 Comfortable. J> p> HELMSAUER . 
 
 LUGANO-PARADISO. 
 
 HOTEL REICHMANN 
 AU LAC. 
 
 Cook's Coupons accepted. 
 House of Ancient Reputation. 
 
 FOR COMPLETE LIST OF 
 MURRAY'S ENGLISH & FOREIGN 
 
 HANDBOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 Write to EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, London, W.C. 
 
2g MUEBAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEBTISEH. May, 
 
 BI A. D 3ES X R A. (Funchal). 
 
 3± DAYS' VOYAGE FROM ENGLAND. 
 
 (ESTABLISHED 1850) 
 
 By appointment to H.R.H. the late Duke of Edinburgh. 
 
 BEID'S PALACE HOTEL, late " NEW," and ANNEXES.— Situated on the Cliffs to the 
 west of Funchal, on the New Road, overlooking the Sea. Grand view of the Mountains. Sea 
 bathing and boating. Lift. Largest Gardens in Madeira. 
 
 • SANTA CLARA HOTEL, — Admirably situated, overlooking Funchal; fine view of the 
 mountains and sea. 
 
 CARMO HOTEL.— In sheltered central position. REID'S MOUNT HOTEL.-2000 feet 
 
 above sea. 
 
 These FIRST-CLASS HOTELS afford every comfort for families and travellers, giving great 
 choice of situation. Electric Light throughout. Tennis Courts, large gardens, baths, reading and 
 smoking rooms. English and German newspapers. Billiards. The SANITARY arrangements are 
 perfect. All Steamers met. Pension from 8s. Qd. to £l per diem, according to accommodation. 
 
 Pamphlet Free. Apply to Messrs. FORWOOI) BROS. & CO., 46, St. Mary Axe, London; Messrs. 
 THOS. COOK & SON, Ludgate Circus, London ; HOTEL TARIFF BUREAU, 275, Regent Street, 
 London; Messrs. J. & H. LINDSAY, Ltd., 18, South St., Andrew Street, and MACKAY BROS. & CO., 
 31, Hanover Street, Edinburgh; at the STEAMSHIP COMPANY'S OFFICE, or WILLIAM 
 REID, Madeira. ABC and Unicode. Telegraphic Address, " REID, FUNCHAL." 
 
 MAR.I ENBAD. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOUSE. Patronised by English. Elevated position, next 
 the Principal Springs and Bath Establishments. Numerous Single and Double 
 Bedrooms. Suites of large and airy Private Apartments. Moderate charges. 
 Arrangements for long stay. Electric Light. Baths. Telephone. Lawn Tennis. 
 Omnibus meets all trains. T. HAMMERSCHMID, Propr. 
 
 MARIENBAD. 
 
 PALAST HOTEL, FURSTENHOF. 
 
 LEADING ESTABLISHMENT. 200 Rooms and Salons. Balconies 
 to nearly every Room. Apartments connected with Private Bath 
 Room. Special arrangements for a prolonged stay and for Families. 
 Highly recommended to English and American Families for its 
 superior accommodation combined with very moderate terms. Own 
 Park. Tennis Court. Omnibus at the Station. 
 
 F. EULER, Manager. EMIL BARTJCH, Proprietor* 
 
 Purveyor to the Court, 
 MARIENBAD. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS ENGLISH HOUSE. 
 
 Best Position in the Town. Opposite the Springs " Kreuzbrunnen " and the 
 Bathing Establishment. Lift. Electric Light. Omnibus at the Station. 
 FR. BOI/LBUCK, Manager. J. A . RUBRITIUS, Proprietor. 
 
 MARSEILLES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL NOAILLES & METROPOLE 
 
 (RUE NOAILLES-CANNEBIERE). 
 
 The Leading Hotel of Marseilles. Every Modern Comfort. Perfect Sanitary Arrangements. 
 E. BILMAIER, Proprietor. 
 (Formerly of Grand Motel, Thunerof, Tltoune, Switzerland.) 
 
 ~ MAYENCE-ON-THE-RHINE. 
 
 holl hotel. HOTEL DE HOLLANDE. holl £ n o? E l 
 
 THE LEADING FAMILY HOUSE. Open Views on the Rhine and Taunus Moun- 
 tains. Opposite Steamboat Landing Pier and Town Garden. Lift. Electric 
 Light. Steam Heating. Baths. Telegrams: " Hollanderhof, Mainz." Omnibus 
 meets all Trains. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 29 
 
 MENTONE.— The Warmest Corner of Europe. 
 
 Grand Hotel de Yenise 
 
 The Warmest Corner of Mentone. 
 
 Slightly elevated in its own Beautiful Large Garden. Electric Light throughout. 
 Bath Room on every Floor. New Hall. Winter Garden. Verandah. Electric Lift. 
 Electric Heating. J. SOMAZZI, Proprietor. 
 
 MENTONE. 
 
 Hotel Prince de Galles. 
 
 Lift. Electric Light. Billiard Room. Tennis 
 Court. Croquet Lawn. Baths. Meals served 
 at separate tables. Terms from 9 fr. 
 
 CHABASSI ERE, Proprietor. 
 
 MOTORING. 
 
 The New Edition of Travel Talk 
 
 contains a unique selection of Motoring 
 Phrases and Sentences, in four Lan-' 
 guages, as well as a comprehensive 
 Vocabulary. Price 3s. 6d. 
 
 MELCHTHAL, SWITZERLAND. 
 
 Beautiful renowned Alpine Health Resort. Should be the goal of every reader of 
 " Murray 's Guides." 
 
 J/finAojiP Mlnlnht'h _/ Much frequented. Romantic Alpine Resort. 
 lAUruaUo, IVIulLlllllal. 890 Meters above the Sea. 
 
 ISiifh Ft* II ft Very P°P ular Mountain Resort, wiih beautiful and 
 lie// Italia, rl l/I I. extensive Views of the Mountains. 1919 Meters above 
 the Sea. Pension Terms in both Hotels, 5 to 8 Francs a day. 
 
 Prospectus from EGKxER FAMlliY, Proprietors. 
 
 ______ 
 
 PALACE HOTEL. 
 
 New First-class Hotel. Eight opposite the Station. Every modern 
 Home Comfort. French Restaurant. Lifts. Electric Light. Steam 
 Heating throughout. Apartments with Bath Room and Dressing 
 Room attached on every Floor. Railway Office in the Hotel. 
 
 Branch: HOTEL QUIRINAL, ROME. 
 
 BUCHER-DUKRER, Proprietor. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 Hotel Cavour. 
 
 The Finest, Quietest, and Healthiest Situation in the Town. Facing the Park. 
 Every Modern Comfort. Railway Booking Oftlce in the Hotel. 
 
 EMANUEL SUARDI, Proprietor. 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 HOTEL MANIN. 
 
 Perfectly quiet. Every Modern Comfort. 
 Established 38 years. Patronised by English 
 and American Visitors. p < BAZZARO. 
 
 ~~ MILAN. 
 
 Bellini's Hotel Terminus. 
 
 Real English Hotel, near the Station. 
 Heated throughout. Moderate Charges. 
 Electric Light. Lift. 
 
 F. BELLINI, Proprietor. 
 
 Lift. - MILAN. - Lift. 
 HOTEL DE HOME. 
 
 pORSO VITTORIO EMANUELE. Full 
 \J South. Splendid View of the Duonuo. 
 Highly Recommended for its Comfort and 
 Moderate Terms. Table d'H6te. Restaurant. 
 Pension. Electric Light. Steam Heating. 
 
 BOKELLA BROTHERS. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 North Italy and Venice. 
 
 34 Maps and Plans. 1 Os. 
 
30 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 MILAN. 
 
 HOTEL IDE HiiL YILLE. 
 
 First-class Hotel, with view on the Cathedral. Every Modern Comfort. Railway 
 Booking Office and Post-Telegraph in the Hotel. - 
 
 J. BAER, Proprietor. 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 ELECTRIC LIGHT IN ALL THE ROOMS. Highly recommended to English and 
 American Tourists. Guides speaking English at the Hotel. 
 
 This large well-known Hotel, situated in the best and healthiest part of the City, near the Kremlin and 
 all places of interest, has been entirely rebuilt, enlarged, and provided with all the latest improvements. 
 Latest English Sanitary arrangements throughout the House. Bathrooms on all floors. The only Hotel 
 in Moscow with Apartments on the ground floor and front garden. Suites of Sitting Eoom, Bedroom, 
 Lavatory, and Private Bathroom. Excellent French and English Cuisine. Splendid Restaurant and 
 Grill Room. Choice Wines. Drawing Room with Piano. Billiard, Smoking, and Reading Rooms. English 
 and Foreign Newspapers. All languages spoken. 
 
 Telegraphic Address : " Berlinotel, Moscow." XAVIER. CLAUSEN, Proprietor (Swiss). 
 
 Nineteenth Edition. Thoroughly Revised. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OF 
 
 TRAVEL TALK. 
 
 Being a Collection of Questions, Phrases, and Vocabularies in English, 
 French, German, and Italian, 
 WITH AN INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER ON PRONUNCIATION. 
 752 pp., thin paper, size> 5 in. by 3J in., cloth, rounded corners. 
 Price 3s. 6d. 
 
 PROSPECTUS GRATIS ON APPLICATION, 
 London : EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.G. 
 
1905. MURBAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 31 
 
 MOSCOW. 
 
 HOTEL DU BAZAR SLAVE. 
 
 THIS WELL-KNOWN FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is the most 
 central, nearest to the Kremlin, Theatres, and all places of 
 interest in the City. 
 
 ENTIRELY RENOVATEO WITH ALL MODERN COMFORTS. 
 
 Excellent Restaurant. Reading Saloon. Drawing Room and 
 Concert Hall in Russian style. l>ath Rooms. Electric Light 
 all through the House. Lift. All languages spoken. English, 
 French and German Newspapers. Telegraph, Telephone and 
 Post Office in the Hotel. 
 
 OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS. 
 
 Guides speaking all Languages always at the service 
 of the Guests. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 HOTEL ENGLISHER HOF 
 
 Finest Situation. Opposite the Royal Theatres and General Post Office. Rooms 
 from 3 Marks. Complete Pension from 7 Marks. Prospectus Free. 
 
 CHARLES POSCH, Proprietor. 
 
 MUNICH. 
 
 GRAND CONTINENTAL HOTEL 
 
 FINEST SITUATION. 
 
 Very First-Class in all respects. Latest comforts. New Hall. Suites with Baths, &c. 
 Best French Restaurant with Open Terrace. American Bar. Auto-Garage. 
 
 NANTES. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE BRETAGNE. 
 
 FIRST CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 Situated in the best quarter and near all the places of interest. Highly recom- 
 mended to families for its comfort and moderate charges. Telephone. Electric 
 Light. Bath Rooms. Motor Garage. English Spoken. AUGEREAU, Proprietor. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 The Leading House, in the Highest and Healthiest Part of the Town, with 
 Beautiful View. Every Comfort. Latest Sanitary Improvements. Bath-room 
 with each apartment. Winter Garden. Billiard and Smoking Rooms. 
 
 A. LANDRY, Proprietor. 
 
32 MUBEAY'S HANDBOOK ADVEBTISER. . May, 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 SANTA LUCIA HOTEL. 
 
 Most Modern First=class Hotel. 
 
 On the New Embankment. Healthiest part of Naples. Splendid 
 view of the Bay and Vesuvius. Full South. Central Heating and 
 Electric Light. Apartments and Booms with Private Bathroom and 
 Dressing Boom. 
 
 Lift. Omnibus. Telegraph and JPost Office. 
 
 PIETRO CAMPIONE & CO., Proprietors. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 TBEXS COIffTIKrElXrTAL HOTEL. 
 
 Open all the year round. Quai Parthenope (New Embankment). Splendid situation — 
 full South. Close to the Public Gardens and the centre of the town, with magnificent view 
 of the Bay and Vesuvius, Hydraulic Lift. Electric Light. Telegraph and Post Office. 
 Every kind of Bath. Moderate charges. Pension 8 to 12 Francs. 
 
 R. WAEHLER, Proprietor. 
 Branch House: HOTEL SUISSE (SCHWEIZERHOF), CAPRI. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 HOTEL GRANDE BRETAGNE 
 
 et d'AN GLETERRE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE. Situated in the best part of Naples, facing the Sea and the 
 beautiful Public Gardens. The Hotel has lately been refurnished with every modern comfort. 
 Lift, Electric Light, and Caloriferes. First-class Cuisine and Cellar. Lunch and Dinners at 
 separate tables. The Hotel is the nearest to the English Church. Cobk's Offices. Open all the 
 year round. C. ROSSI, Proprietor and Manager. 
 
 NAPLES. 
 
 HOTEL J33E5 IiONDRES. 
 
 FIRST CLASS 
 
 In the healthiest and most central position. 
 Splendid views of the Gulf and Vesuvius. Lift. Baths. Calorifere. Newly Furnished. 
 Perfect Drainage. Cook's Coupons accepted. 
 
 DELVITTO, POGGIANI, CAMPIONE, Proprietors. 
 
 BAD NAUHEIIVL 
 
 Grand Hotel KAISERHOF, 
 
 Leading Hotel of Bad Nauheim, 
 
 Offers every Modem Comfort and Luxury. Numerous Suites with 
 Private Bath and Toilet Room. Patronised by Royalty and the b est 
 English and American Society. 
 
 H. HABERLAND, Proprietor. 
 
 NAUHEIM (BAD). 
 
 PARK HOTEL and annex park HOUSE. 
 
 Both Hotels with every Modern Comforts. Situated in the Finest and Best Open 
 Position in the Brunnen Park. Single Rooms and Suites with their own Private 
 Bathrooms. German Officers' Club. Prospectus sent on application. 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 33 
 
 !N E U C H Ai T E L 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BELLEYUE. 
 
 A. CUENOUD, Proprietor. First-class Hotel. 
 
 Magnificently situated on the Border of the Lake. Commanding splendid Views of the 
 
 Panorama of the Alps. Lift. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Garage for Automobiles 
 PENSION PRICES ALL THE YEAR ROUND. N.B.— Besides the Evening Train (direct) 
 a Day Train is running between Neuchatel and Paris, and vice verm. 
 Central Heating Throughout. Inquiry Office in the Hotel Garden. 
 
 NEUHAUSEN, NEAR SCHAFFHAUSEN, 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 FALLS of the RHINE. 
 
 HOTEL SCHWEIZERHOF 
 
 FIRST CLASS. 
 With Grand View of the Falls. 
 Ffne Park and Gardens. Lawn Tennis. 
 Music. 
 
 A Charming- and Healthy 
 
 . . . Summer Resort. 
 
 Specially Recommended for After 
 Cures. 
 
 Special arrangements for protracted stay. 
 Moderate Terms. English Chdrch. 
 
 NEWQUAY, CORNWALL. 
 
 WATERGATE BAY HOTEL, 
 
 Near NEWQUAY, CORNWALL. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS and Very Comfortable FAMILY HOTEL, in magnifi- 
 cent sheltered position facing the Atlantic. Easy access to 2 miles 
 of sandy beach. Centrally situated for Carnanton Woods, Mawgan, 
 Bedruthan Steps, Newquay, etc. Charming Cliff and Inland Scenery. 
 Private Golf Links. Billiards. Stabling. For full particulars, en 
 pension terms, apply to the Manageress. 
 
 NUREMBERG. 
 
 GOLDEN EAGLE HOTEL, 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE. Newly rebuilt. 200 Beds. Most central and best 
 position. Specially patronised by English and Americaus. Arrangements made. Baths. 
 Electric Light and Central Heating in Corridors and every Room. Lift*. 
 Omnibus meets all trains. Under the personal management of the Proprietor, 
 
 WILLY SCHLENK. 
 
 c 
 
34 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 OSTEND. 
 
 Facing the Sea and Baths. Next to the Palace of the Royal Family. All modern 
 Comforts. Rooms from 6 fr., light and attendance included. Pension, 14/- to £l a 
 day, according to location of room. Meals served at Separate Tables. 
 Cable Address : " S PLENDID, OSTEND." 
 
 PALERMO. 
 
 "VILLA ICIEA" GRAND HOTEL 
 
 Built and Furnished according to the most modern and 
 
 perfect sanitary arrangements. 
 THE BEST AND HEALTHIEST SITUATION. 
 250 BED AND PRIVATE AND PUBLIC BATHROOMS 
 
 SITTING ROOMS. ON EVERY FLOOR. 
 
 French Cuisine. Lawn Tennis. American Bar. 
 
 STANDS IN THE MIDST OF ITS OWN ENORMOUS PARK. 
 
 A. PACHLER, Manager (formerly Hotel Continental, Paris). 
 
 PALERMO (Sicilv), 
 
 HOTEL DE FRANCE. 
 
 FIRST CLASS. Very comfortable Garden, full South. Electric Light. Lift. 
 Only Hotel in Palermo with Hot Water Central Heating Apparatus. 
 
 P. WEINEN, Proprietor and Manager. 
 
 PARAME (BRITTANY). 
 
 BRISTOL PALACE HOTEL 
 
 First Class. On the "Plage." Highly recom- 
 mended. The most pleasant situation in the 
 Bay of St. Malo. Spring Terms, 8 francs per 
 day. Summer Terms, 10 francs per day. 
 
 . J. C. GALLET, Proprietor. 
 
 MAPS. 
 
 The best Tourists' Maps of all parts of 
 the World are kept in stock by 
 Mr. Edward Stanford, . 
 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, London, W.C. 
 Write stating requirements. 
 
 PARIS 
 
 HOTEL BELLEVUE, 
 
 39, AVENUE DE L'OPERA. 
 
 Finest central situation in the Capital, facing the Opera House. 
 First-rate Restaurant. Luncheon and Dinner served at small tables. 
 Reading and Smoking Rooms. Electric Light throughout. Lift. 
 Baths. Steam Heating in every Room. Special arrangements made 
 
 for the Winter. 
 
 Telephone No. 23,276. No extra charge for Service and Lights. 
 
 L. HAUSER, Proprietor. 
 
 PAU. 
 
 HOTEL I3E FRANCE. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the Place Royale, com- 
 mands the most sple did vi^w of the whole chain of the Pyrenees, and is adjoining 
 the English Club. Improved Lift. Bath and Smoking Rooms. Auto-Garage Free. 
 
 * GARDERES FRERES, Proprietors. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 35 
 
 PENZANCE. 
 
 MOUNT'S BAY HOTEL, 
 
 ESPLANADE. 
 With Grand Sea Views. Omnibus 
 C. BALL, Proprietor. 
 
 STANFORD'S 
 
 GEOLOGICAL ATLAS OF 
 GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 By H. B. WOODWARD, F.R.S., F.G.S. 
 Price 12s. 6d. net. 
 
 PERUGIA- 
 
 Opened 1893. 
 
 Overlooking a magnificent view of Umbrian Valley. Sumptuously constructed in 
 1898. Furnished with all modern comfort. Grand Hall. Winter Garden. Post and 
 Telegraph Office in the Hotel. Special Electric Car to meet every train. Res- 
 taurant. Moderate charges. FORT U NATO CHIARI & G. GAGLIARDI. 
 
 PETI TES-DALLES (Seine Inferieure), FRANCE. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DES BAINS, 
 
 Facing the Sea. Moderate Prices. Excellent Cuisine, Comfortable Rooms. Salon. Garden. 
 Dark Room. Gratuitous Garage for Bicycles and Automobiles. Bathrooms. Horses. Carriages. 
 Forest extending to the Sea. Beautiful Excursions. Post and Telegraph Office in the Hotel. 
 
 Communications: London— Dieppe— Cany ; or London— Havre— Cany. VEZIER, 
 
 where carriages of the Hotel are waiting every train. Proprietor. 
 
 PISA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL & 
 
 HOTEL DE LONDRES. 
 
 Rooms full South, including Electric 
 Light and attendance, from 3.50-7 francs. 
 Pension from 8-12 francs. W. Garbrecht. 
 
 PiSA. 
 
 GRAND 
 
 HOTEL MINERVA. 
 
 Terminus. 
 
 Evorv Modern Com tort. Lift. 
 
 G. JONNI, Proprietor. 
 
 GRAND 
 
 POITIERS, 
 
 HOTEL DE 
 
 FRANCE. 
 
 First-class, and recommended to Families and Tourists lor its comfort and good manage- 
 ment. The most central of the Town, near the Hotel de Ville, Prefecture, Telegraph and 
 Post Office, Museum, Historical Monuments, and Promenades. Speciality of Fowls and 
 truffled Pates ot all sorts. Carriages for Drives. Railway Omnibus calls at Hotel. English 
 and German spokru. Baths. Telephone. ROBLIN-BOUCH ARDEAU, Proprietor. 
 
 PRAGUE. 
 
 HOTEL YICTORIA. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL 
 
 Electric Light in all Rooms. English 
 Church Service in the Hotel. 
 OTTO WELZER, Proprietor. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 ROME. 
 
 With Maps and Plans. 10s. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 G D HOTEL du QUIRINAL. 
 
 Highly reputed and fashionable FIRST-CLASS HOTEL, situated on the 
 VIA NAZIONALE (the finest street of Rome), in the healthiest 
 and most elevated part of the Eternal City. 
 Every Modern Comfort and Luxury. Apartments with Bath and Toilet Rooms. 
 Electric Light and American Steam Radiators in every Room. 
 Grand Hall. Perfect Sanitation. Elegant French Restaurant. 
 
 BUCHER-DURRER, Proprietor and Manager. 
 
 BRANCH HOUSES: 
 
 Grand Hotel Mediterranee, Pegli ; Palace Hotel, Milan ; Hotel Stanserhorn, 
 near Lucerne; Hotel Burgenstock, near Lucerne; Hotel Euler, Bale; Grand 
 Hotel. Lugano ; Palace Hotel, Lucerne Open 1W6. 
 
36 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 ROME. 
 
 SAVOY HOTEL 
 
 15, VIA LUDOYISI. 
 
 150 Bedrooms and Private Sitting Rooms. 
 
 FASHIONABLE FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOTEL, situated in the 
 healthiest and highest part of Rome, near the - Gardens and 
 opposite Queen Margherita's Residence. Provided with all 
 Modern Comfort. Omnibus meets all trains. Special arrange- 
 ments for Families. Auto-Garage at the Hotel. 
 
 ~ J. LENGYEL, Proprietor and Manage r. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 CONTINENTAL 
 
 300 Rooms. JJ Q Jj] # 
 
 All Modern Comforts. Open all the Year. 
 
 P. LUGANI, Proprietor. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL MARINI. 
 
 First Class. Unrivalled for its healthy, quiet, and central situation. 
 Full South. Lift. Electric Light in every Room. 
 
 APPARTEMENTS WITH STEAM HEATING. 
 
 {OPEN ALL THE TEAR.) 
 
 . ' ■ EUGENE MARINI, Proprietor. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE RUSSIE. 
 
 Via Babuino et Piazza, del Popolo. 
 
 THIS FIRST-CLASS HOTEL is now considerably enlarged and 
 renewed with the latest modern comforts. The only oue having 
 a large and entirely sunny garden. Unique and healthy position. 
 
 2 LIFTS. APARTMENTS HEATED BY STEAM. 2 WINTER GARDENS. 
 Moderate Charges. 
 
 H. SILENZI, Proprietor. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 37 
 
 ROME. 
 
 HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE, 
 
 VIA BOCCA DI LEONE. 
 
 THIS Hotel is conveniently, healthily, and quietly situated in the centre of 
 the City, between the Corso and the Piafcza di Spagna, in the most aristo- 
 cratic quarter of Rome. It offers every possible advantage, and Visitors 
 may rely upon every English comfort. Charges Moderate. Special 
 arrangements for a long term. Open the whole year. Most frequented 
 by English. Particular attention is paid to the Cooking aud Service. 
 
 Lift. Electric Light in all the Rooms. Latest English Sanitary 
 Arrangements. Apartments heated by Steam. 
 
 H. SILENZI, Froprietor. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 HOTEL REGINA 
 
 BUILT IN 1903. 
 
 Very First Class and Fashionable, with, all the Latest Improvements. 
 
 Situated in the finest part of the town, opposite Queen Marghcrita's 
 Palace. G. BARBIANI, Manager and Proprietor. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 MOTEL BEAU-SITE, 
 
 HIGHEST POSITION OF THE LUDORISI QUARTER. 
 FIRST-CLASS FAMILY HOUSE OF OLD REPUTE. 
 
 E. HAASE, Proprietor, 
 
 ROME. 
 
 PALAZZO STORBINI, 
 41, Via Babuino. 
 
 HOTEL PENSION BETHELL, 
 
 First-class English House. Every Comfort. Large airy Sitting and Smoking 
 Rooms. Bath Rooms. Beautiful sunny Bedrooms. Large Liorary. Central, quiet 
 and healthy Situation. Terms moderate. Guests met at Station. 
 
 Address, Mrs. HENRY S. BETHELL. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 PALACE HOTEL 
 
 / Opened \ 
 V December, 1903./ 
 
 Best position of the Ludorisi Quorto. Opposite Queen Margherita's Palace. 
 
 NEW. COMPLETE. UP-TO-DATE. 
 
 E. HAASE, Proprietor. 
 
 ROME. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA (English House) 
 
 Rue Due Macelli 24 (Piazza di Spagna) . 
 
 Nice Sunny Garden, with many Mandarines 
 and Lemon Trees. Electric Light in every 
 room. Omnibus meets every train. Pension, 
 7 and 8 Shillings per day. 
 
 EWALD THIELE, Proprietor. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK 
 
 FOR 
 
 SOUTH ITALY 
 
 PART I. 
 
 10 Maps and Plans. Ninth Edition, 6s. 
 
3S 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D'ANGLETERRE 
 
 The Grand Hote] d'Aneleterre has Lifts and Baths. Splendid Summer Terrace Res- 
 taurant. It is situated on the Oours Boieldieu, and has from its windows the fihtst view on 
 the Seine. Telephone. All rooms ligbted by electricity. Moderate Terms. Motor Garage. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 HOTEL I>"E J^IL POSTE. 
 
 Lift. Electric Light throughout. Steam Heating Situated opposite the Post Office, 
 in the finest central part of the town,. Magnificent Garden in the front of the Hotel. 
 Reading, Music, and Writing Saloons. English Newspapers. English and German 
 Spoken Telephone. Baths. Moderate Terms. Cook's Coupons Taken. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL JOB FRANCE. 
 
 97, 99, Hue des Cannes, 101, 103. 
 
 Situated in the centre of the town and the Monuments. Very comfortable and moderate 
 prices. Electric light. 114 rooms. Two bath rooms. Breakfast, 1 fr. 50. Table d'hote: Lunch, 
 3 frs. ; Dinner. 3 frs. (Wine included). Restaurant. Private Salons. Coffee Room. Dark Room 
 for Photographers. Auto-Garage. Post: Special service, last collection for all countries at 11-40. 
 English spoken. Telephone 615. P. BEUN ARDEATJ, Manager. 
 
 ROUEN. 
 
 GRAND MOTEL d<e PARIS 
 
 QUAI DE PARIS. Telephone 556. 
 
 First Class. Best situation in the Town. In close proximity to the routes for Paris, 
 Dieppe, Havre. Caen, and Trouv lie. Near Post and Telegraph Office, Steamboat Per 
 and Havre steamer. Shelters for Motor Cars and Bicycles. Dark Room. Correspondent of 
 the Touring Club. English Spoken. Moderate Prices. Arrangements for Families. 
 
 ST. MORITZ BAD (Engadine, Switzerland). 
 
 HOTEL ENGADINERHOF. 
 
 ONE OF THE BEST IN THE PLACE. 
 
 Pension Terms from 12 to 20 Francs. 
 
 Gr. HORN B ACHER, Proprietor. 
 
 Nineteenth Edition. 644 pp., 34 Maps and Plans. Crown 8vo., 10s. 
 
 Murray's Handbook for 
 
 SWITZERLAND. 
 
 Remodelled and thoroughly Revised. 
 
 In this Edition the scheme of the Handbook has been entirely recast, 
 and the -Text has been thoroughly revised and very largely rewritten by 
 the most competent authority. The work is now comprised in a single 
 volume, Which, while being more convenient to handle, contains as 
 much useful matter as the former edition in two volumes. The 
 information regard?ng Hotels, Railways, Diligences, &c, has been 
 carefully brought up to date ; and the Maps have been revised and 
 increased in number to keep pace with the recent rise in public favour 
 of fresh districts. 
 
 London : EDWAfiD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.G. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 39 
 
 ST. PETERSBURG. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL D'EUROPE, 
 
 HUE MICHEL. 
 
 _J Jjl ^t>^ ' : 
 
 Leading Residential House. With every modern Comfort. Patronised by the Russian 
 Imperial Court and by the best Foreign and Russian Society. Sanitary Arrangements, 1903 
 entirely reconstructed with the latest English Appliances. 30 Suites oi Apartments with 
 Private Bath and .Lavatory. All Modern Languages spoken. 
 
 Telegraphic A<hlr<**: " EV H< U'llOTEL, ST. PETERSBURG.'' 
 Under the new Management of J. WOLFLISBERG-GIGER. 
 
 Near Genoa. 
 
 SALEVE 
 
 Haute Savoie. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BELLEVUE. 
 
 Monnetier-Mornex. 
 
 First Class. Electric Light throughout. Central Heating. Facing Alps and Mont Blanc- 
 Large Covered Verandah. Open all t he war. Winter Spurts. 'I "rent in.-iit <>f tin- Wunistheny by 
 a new and successful method Dr. Gochwend. A. BONZANICO, Proprietor. 
 
 SALZBURG. 
 
 Situated in the most fashionable part <>f the town. Facing the Theatre and the renowned Mirabel 
 
 Garden. Combines luxury m ith comfort of home. 
 Rooms and Suites of Apartments (connected with Bathroom) commanding splendid view over 
 the town and surrounding mountains. State Railway Office in the Hotel. Electric Light. Lift. 
 Hot and Cold Water in each Room. Omnibus meets all Trains. 
 
 SAN REMO. 
 
 THE SAVOY HOTEL. 
 
 Opened January, 1900. 
 New Palatial Building. Finest site in most fashionable quarter. Perfectly- 
 sheltered. Luxurious vegetation. Extensive views. Electric Light through- 
 out. Steam Heating and Ventilation. PAUL MARINI, Proprietor. 
 
 MAPS, ATLASES, AND BOOKS.— A Catalogue of Maps, Atlases, 
 and Books published and sold by EDWARD STANFORD, with an Illus- 
 trated Supplement on Methods of Map Mounting, a Geographical Index, 
 and an Index of Authors. 156 pp. demy 8vo. By post, 3d. 
 
 12, 13, & 14, LONG ACRE, LONDON, W.C. 
 
40 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 FASHIONABLE SEASIDE RESORT ON THE NORTH SEA. 
 
 SCHEVENINGEN, 
 
 HOLLAND. 
 
 Season, June to September 30. 
 
 PROGRAMME OF ENTERTAINMENTS. 
 
 CONCERTS daily by the Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra of 80 performers, includ- 
 . ing soloists of the first rank. 
 Every Friday, Grand Symphony Concert. 
 
 Every Wednesday, from July 1, Concert, assisted by renowned Artistes. 
 
 Balls in the Theatre. Reunions dansantes. In July and August (in fine weather) 
 Fireworks ; also splendid Children's Fetes and Open-Air Balls on the Terrace. 
 
 French Performances by Parisian Actors. On the Queen Wilhelmina Pier, Concerts 
 daily. Magnificent electrical illumination of the Sea Bridge. Sea Trips by Saloon 
 Steamers. 
 
 Circus Performances, Cafe Concerts. In the Kurhaus-Bar, Concert's given by the 
 renowned Neapolitan Band. Horse Racing, Golf Club, Lawn Tennis. Splendid 
 Roads for Motoring and Cycling. 
 
 Rotunda. Favourite Beer Restaurant, Tea Room, Confectionery, and Bodega 
 
 Wine Room. 
 
 EQUESTRIAN CONTEST .. 
 SEMAINE AUTOMOBILE ) 
 MOTOR-BOAT RACES / 
 
 July 11—16. 
 July 17—22. 
 
 PALACE HOTEL. HOTEL KURHAUS. 
 HOTEL DERANGE. SAVOY HOTEL. 
 GRAND HOTEL GARNI. HOTEL RAUCH.. 
 
 All situated on Scheveningen's splendid Sea Front. 
 SCHWALBACH. 
 
 HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 Highly reputed English House with Moderate Prices. 
 
 Light throughout. 
 
 Electric 
 
 SCHWALBACH. 
 
 DUKE OF NASSAU HOTEL 
 
 First-class. Lift. Electric Light. 
 Moderate Charges. Every Comfort. 
 
 ADOLF JAHN, Proprietor. 
 
 SIENNE, ITALY. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL CONTINENTAL 
 AND PENSION. 
 
 Electric Light. Lift. 
 Every Modern Comfort. 
 
 ALFRED ZAZZEEA, Proprietor. 
 
 STANFORD'S COMPENDIUM OF GEOGRAPHY AND TRAVEL 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY VOLUME. 
 
 Glossary of Geographical and Topographical Terms. 
 
 And of Words of f requent occurrence in the composition of such 
 Terms and of Place Names. 
 
 By ALEXANDER KNOX, B.A., F.R.G.S. 
 
 The purpose of the hook is to define those geographical and topographical terms 
 which occnr most frequently, either alone or in the composition of place-names, 
 throughout the world. Altogether over 10,000 separate terms or names are defined. 
 The Introduction treats of the principal groups of languages from a philological 
 standpoint. 
 
 Detailed Prospectus gratis on application. 
 LONDON : EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, LONG- ACRE, W.C. 
 
1905. MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 41 
 
 S I E N N E. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL 
 ROYAL DE SIENNE 
 
 FIRST-CLASS HOTEL. 
 
 Beautifully Situated, overlooking the Lizza Garden. 
 FULL SOUTH. 
 Entirely Renovated with all Modern Comfort. 
 
 OMNIBUS MEETS ALL TRAINS. 
 
 ELECTRIC LIGHT. LIFT. 
 
 Proprietor, L. BETTI. 
 
 suaoi 
 
 VIC3TOIRIA. TTOT TST. (FIRST CLASS). 
 
 Patronised by His Excellency The Lord-Lieutenant (Earl Dudley), the Nobility, and Gentry. 
 Tourists, Anglers, and Families will find every comfort, combined with cleanliness ami moderate 
 charges. Private Sitting Rooms. Baths— Hot, Cold, and Shower. Golf. Billiards. Porting in 
 all its branches. Omnibus attends all trains, (ientlemen staying in tins Hotel have the privilege 
 of Free Fishing for Salmon and Trout on Lough (iill and River Bonnet. Ook's < 'oupons accepted. 
 
 J. A. HALL, Proprietor. 
 
 SORRENTO, Bay of Naples. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL VICTORIA. 
 
 FIRST-CI.ASS 
 
 AND MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL. 
 
 Splendid View of the Bay and Mount Vesuvius. 
 Electric Light throughout. Lawn Tennis. Central Heating. 
 The only Hotel having Two Electric Elevators to all floors. 
 Apartments and Rooms with Private Bathroom. 
 
 O. FIORENTINO, Proprietor. 
 
 EDWARD STANFORD is Sole London Agent for the Saleof the Ordnance 
 and Geological Survey Maps, and the Maps published by the Intelligence Divi- 
 sion of the War Office ; he is also Agent for the Indian Trigonometrical Survey 
 Maps, the Admiralty Charts, the Publications of the Royal Geographical Society, 
 the Royal Scottish Geographical Society, the Royal Meteorological Society, the 
 Sanitary Institute, &c. 
 
 12, 13, & 14, LONG ACRE, LONDON, W.C. 
 
42 MUERAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 SPA. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL BRITANNIQUE. 
 
 The* Newest and most Modern Hotel of Spa. It stands in its own 
 magnificent Grounds, commanding a Splendid View of the Mountains. 
 Large Hall. Electric Lift. First-class Stabling. 
 
 STORAGE FOR MOTOR CARS. 
 Under the personal management of the Proprietor, F. LEGH. 
 
 GRAND HOTEL DE L'EUROPE. 
 
 (Only 40 minutes' journey from the International Liege Exhibition, 1905.) 
 
 Flit ST- CLASS HOTEL. 
 Electric Light. Modern Comfort. Splendid Situation. 
 
 Near the Trinkhall and Kursaal, with Views of the Mountains. 
 Near English Church. Highly recommended. Omnibus at the Station. 
 Large Garage for Motor Cars, well fitted up with ail accessories. 
 Telephone No. 28. HENRARD-RICHARD, Proprietor. 
 
 SPA. 
 
 HOTEL BELLE ¥UE. 
 
 Magnificent Situation on the Principal Promenade of the T own. 
 
 Near the Park and Baths. Very Large Garden. Modern Comforts. 
 Omnibus at the Station. 
 Telephone No. 34. ROUMA, Proprietor. 
 
 STUTTGART. 
 
 HOTEL MAKQUAKOT. 
 
 Direct Entrance from the Railway Station. 
 
 FINEST POSITION IN TOWN. SPLENDID NEW BUILDING. FIRST CLASS. 300 ROOMS. 
 
 ELECTRIC LIGHT. CENTRAL HEATING. ELEVATORS. 
 Rooms from 2.70 Marks upwards. 
 
 APARTMENTS WITH BATH. H. & O. MARQUARDT. 
 
 SUTHERLANDSHIRE. 
 
 THE SUTHERLAND HOTEL, 
 
 LAIRG, 1ST.B. 
 
 Under New Management, and Refurnished and Improved. 
 This Hotel will now be found to be one of the best appointed and most 
 comfortable in the North, while its situation renders it one of the most 
 
 desirable holiday resorts in Scotland. 
 Good fishing on several excellent lochs. Hotel 'Bus attends arrival and 
 departure of all trains. 
 Mail Coaches leave here daily for Lochinver, Scourie, and the West ; and every 
 Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday for Tongue. Motor Car kept. 
 
 WILLIAM WALLACE, Proprietor. 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 43 
 
 SWITZERLAND-LAKE OF LUCERNE . 
 
 Above Morschach. 4,300 feet above Sea. First- 
 class Hotel. Exquisite Health Resort. Bracing 
 Climate. Wonderful view. Shady Park. Lawn 
 Tenuis, Croquet, &c. Baths. Milk from own Farm. 
 Pension 7 to 12 francs. Carriages at Morschach Station. Charge, 5 francs one person. 
 ' . . / CARL MULLER, Proprietor. 
 
 STOOS. 
 
 TENBY. 
 
 ROYAL GATE HOUSE HOTEL. 
 
 Immediately overlooking the Sea. Excellent 
 , Cuisine and Wines. Golf Links within 10 
 minutes. Billiards. Lively Stables. Omnibus 
 to all trains. Hotel Smoke Room. Public- 
 Drawing Room. Moderate Terms. Reduced 
 Terms during Winter. 
 
 Resident Proprietor— F. W. GREGORY . 
 
 J US T PUBLISH i: I). 
 
 GEOLOCICAL MAP OF CYPRUS. 
 
 COMPILED BY 
 
 C. V. BELLAMY, F.GS, M.I.C.E. 
 
 30 in. by 22 in., scale 5$ miles to l inch. Price, 
 in sheet, 6s. ; mounted in case, 8s. 6d. 
 LONDON : EDWARD STANFORD, 
 12, 13; & 14, Long Acre, W.C. 
 
 TOURS. 
 
 CRAND HOTEL DE L'UNIYERS 
 
 On the Boulevard, near the Station. Facing the new Town Hall. 
 Newly Furnished. Every Modern Comfort. Lift. Electric Light, Baths. 
 First-class Hotel. Suitable for Families. Special Arrangements for the, Winter. 
 
 MAURICE ROBLIN, Manager. 
 
 TRXBERGr. 
 
 First-class Climatic Health Resort. Centre of the Badenian 
 Black Forest Railroad. 
 
 LOUIS BIERINGER'S SCHWARZWALD HOTEL. 
 
 715 m. above the sea. The onlv Hotel in the immediate vicinity of the Waterfall 
 and the High Forest, surrounded by own Park, in quiet open situation, without the 
 noise of streets. Situate 40 m. above the town, ottering the most agreeable abode. 
 Large Terrace, with View of Mountains. New Ten ace Restaurant. Large Dining 
 Hall. Conversation, Reading, and Smoking Rooms. Omnibus to meet all trains. 
 Trout Fisning. Dark Room. Auto Hall. Cur-Concerts on the Hotel Terrace. 
 Pension. Illustrated Prospectus. Opening of the Season, 2*2 nd April. Reduced 
 Prices in Spring and Autumn. Highly Recommended to Families and Tourists. Branch 
 House— Badenwciler, Hotel SommeT. . 
 
 TRI BERG. 
 
 Best situation near the Waterfalls, for a long time well known as HOTEL z. OCHSEN. Every 
 English comfort. Baths, .hlectric Liaht. Milk Cure. Omnil»u6 at the Station. Carriages. 
 M iderate Charges. Pension. Dark Room. Park-g rdeii. Good 1 i out Fishing-. Concerts 
 in front of the Hotel. The Proprietor gives hest information for excursions in the Black Forest. 
 Tne Hotel W hrle, not very large, bu. very eoniiO. table, is highly recommend d by 
 German and foreign Guide Books. Open all the year ro-md. Automobiles !-to>ed. 
 Telephone. Apply for Illus trated Prospectus. P. WEHRLE, Propriet or. 
 
 VIENNA. 
 
 HOTEL METROPOLE. 
 
 FIRST-CLASS throughout. Especially patronised by English and Americans. 300 
 rooms from 4 to 25 Kronen. No Extra Charge for Electric Light, Attendance, or 
 Heating. Lift. 
 
 MURRAY'S 
 HANDBOOKS FOR TRAVELLERS 
 
 " Better guide books have never been 
 written. " — British Weekly. 
 
 List on application. 
 LONDON: EDWARD STANFORD, 
 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.C. 
 
MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 May, 
 
 WIESBADEN. 
 
 AND 
 BATHS. 
 
 NEW HOTEL DE LUXE. 
 
 k 
 
 HOTEL WILHELMA 
 
 Standing in its own Magnificent Grounds, adjoining the Kurhaus. 
 Moderate arrangements for a prolonged stay. The American Con- 
 sulate is established at the Hotel. A favourite resort of English and 
 American families. G-. HAEFPNER, Proprietor. 
 
 Wl ESBADEN. 
 
 HOTEL NIZZAKURHAUS. 
 
 Opposite the Augusta Victoria Bath. 
 Modern First-Class House. Beautifully 
 situated in own garden. Balconies. 
 Central Heating, Lift. Electric Light. 
 Baths. Moderate Charges. Pension. 
 
 E. UPLEGGEE, Proprietor. 
 
 THE FAR EAST, 
 
 Mr. Stanford has in Stock a variety 
 of Maps, specially prepared to illustrate 
 recent developments in the Far East. 
 
 Special List gratis on application. 
 
 CATALOGUES ISSUED BY EDWARD STANFORD. 
 
 MAPS, ATLASES, AND BOOKS.— A Catalogue of Maps, Atlases, 
 and Books published and sold by EDWARD STANFORD, wifch an Illus- 
 trated Supplement on Methods of Map Mounting, a Geographical Index 
 and an Index of Authors, 156 pp. derny Svo. By post, 3(7. 
 
 SUPPLEMENTARY CATALOGUE. - Stanford's Supplementary 
 
 Catalogue of Maps, Plans, and Charts published by the Ordnance and 
 Geological Surveys, the Admiralty, the India Office, the Intelligence : 
 Division of the War Office, and other Government Departments ; with an 
 Additional List of some Leading Atlases and Maps published by Private 
 Firms. 60 pp. demy 8vo. By post, 2d. 
 
 MAPS AND BOOKS FOR TOURISTS.— Stanford's Catalogue of 
 
 Maps and Books for Tourists ; with Index Maps to the Government Sur- 
 veys of the British Isles, France, and Switzerland. 56 pp. fcap. 8vo. 
 
 LONDON : EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, LONG ACRE, W.C. 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 45 
 
 WILDBAD, Black Forest. 
 
 HOTEL KLUMPP 
 
 HTDBAULIG LIFTS. ELECTBIC LIGHT. 
 THIS FIEST-CLASS HOTEL, with separate Breakfast, 
 Reading, Ladies' and Conversation Rooms, as well as Smoking 
 Room. Large handsome Dining Saloon. An artificial garden 
 over the river. Beautifully situated in connection with the 
 Old and New Bath Buildings and Conversation House. Five 
 minutes' walk from the English Church, and in the imme- 
 diate vicinity of the Park and Pump Room. Well known 
 for its elegant and comfortable apartments. Good Cuisine 
 and Wines, and deserves its widespread reputation as 
 one of the best hotels on the Continent. Table d'Hote 
 Restaurant. Correspondents of principal Banking Houses 
 of London, New York, &c, for the payment of Circular Notes 
 and Letters of Credit. 
 
 OMNIBUS OF THE HOTEL MEETS EVERY TRAIN. FINE PRIVATE CARRIAGES. 
 
 Capital Trout Fishing in the River Euz. 
 LAWN TENNIS AND CROQUET. 
 Reduced Terms for Rooms in May and September. Excellent Accommodation. 
 Arrangements made for protracted stay. Proprietors, KLUMPP FAMILY. 
 
 ZUG. 
 
 HOTEL HIRCHEN. 
 
 Well-known Family Hotel in a Beautiful Situation. Very Comfortable. 
 
 Electric Light. Shady Garden. Baths. Pension from 5 Francs upwards 
 Omnibus at Railway Station. Garage for Motor Cars. 
 
 OTTO SYZ, Proprietor. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK for YORKSHIRE. Fourth Edition, 
 
 Remodelled and thoroughly Revised. * Edited by John W. Walker, 
 F.S.A. 670 pages (thin paper), 28 Maps and Plans, crown 8vo., 14s. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK for SCOTLAND. Eighth Edition. 
 
 Remodelled, Enlarged, and thoroughly Revised. Edited by Scott 
 Moncrieff Penney, M.A. 590 pages (thin paper), 57 Maps and 
 Plans, crown 8vo., 10s. 6d. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK for IRELAND. Sixth Edition, 
 
 thoroughly Revised. Edited by John Cooke, M.A. (Dub.). 
 615 pages (thin paper), 43 Maps and Plans, crown 8vo., 9s. 
 
 <m» A COMPLETE PROSPECTUS of MURRAY'S ENGLISH and FOREIGN 
 HANDROOKS, with Specimen Map and Plan, will be sent on receipt of a 
 postcard. 
 
 London : EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.C. 
 
46 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 
 
 IRurrap's Handbooks for travellers. 
 
 "Into every nook which an Englishman can penetrate he carries his Red HAND- 
 BOOK. He trusts to his Murray because it is thoroughly English and reliable." — 
 
 he Ti'tnes 
 
 FOREIGN HANDBOOKS, 
 
 FRANCE. Part II. Central Franee, Auvergne, The Cevennes, 
 Burgundy, The Rhone and Saone, Provence, Nimes, Aries, 
 Marseilles, The French Alps, Alsace, Lorraine, Cham- 
 pagne, &C. 23 Maps and Plans. 18th Edition. 7s. M. 
 
 DENMARK AND ICELAND. 6 Maps and Plans. 6th Edition. 7s. 6d. 
 
 NORWAY. 13 Maps and Plans. 9th Edition. 7s. 6d. 
 
 SOUTH GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. Part I. Wurtemberg, 
 Bavaria, Austria, Hungary Jstria, and the Danu be f rom Ulm 
 
 to the Black Sea. With 34 Maps and Plans. 15th Edition. 7s. 6d. 
 SOUTH GERMANY AND AUSTRIA. Part II. The Tyrol, Salz- 
 burg. Styria, and the Eastern Alps. With 7 Maps and 
 
 Plans. 15th Edition. 6s. 
 SWITZERLAND AND THE ADJACENT REGIONS OF THE ALPS. 
 
 664 pages. 34 Maps and Plans. 10s. 
 SPAIN. In 2 parts. 42 Maps and Plans. 9th Edition. 20s. 
 NORTH ITALY AND VENICE. 34 Maps and Plans. 16th Edition. 10s. 
 CENTRAL ITALY AND FLORENCE. 32 Maps and Plans. 12th 
 
 Edition. 9s. 
 
 ROME AND ITS ENVIRONS. 94 Maps and Plans. 16th Edition. 10s. 
 SOUTH ITALY. Part I. Naples, Pompeii, Sorrento, Capri, 
 
 Amain, Psestum, Taranto, Bari, Brindisi, &e. With 10 
 
 Maps and Plans. 9th Edition. 6s. 
 SOUTH ITALY. Part II. SICILY. With 9 Maps and Plans. 
 
 9th Edition. 6s. 
 
 GREECE -The Ionian Islands, The Islands of the iEgean Sea, 
 Albania, Thessaly, and Macedonia. 7th Edition. 38 Maps 
 
 and Plans. 20s. 
 
 ALGERIA AND TUNIS. By the late Ool. Sir R. Lambert Playfair, 
 K.O.M.G., H.B.M. Consul- General for Algeria and Tunis. 18 Maps 
 and Plans. 5th Edition. 10s. 6d. 
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE— Brusa, and the Troad. 12 Maps and Plans. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 EGYPT. 34 Maps and Plans. 10th Edition. 15s. 
 
 SYRIA and PALESTINE (The Holy Land) A Revised Edition, largely 
 
 rewritten. Edited by Mary Brodrick, Ph.D. 26 Maps and Plans. 18s. 
 ASIA MINOR — Transcaucasia, Persia, &e 23 Maps. 18s. 
 NEW ZEALAND. By F. W. Pennefather, LL.D. 18 Maps and 
 
 Plans. 7s. 6d. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK OF TRAVEL TALK. Colloquial Dia- 
 logues and Vocabularies in English, French, German, 
 and Italian. New (19th) Edition. Thoroughly revised to suit 
 the requirements of Modern Travellers, including Photographers, 
 Cyclists, and Motorists. On Thin Paper. Small Fcap. 8vo. 3s. 6d. 
 TOURISTS' CATALOGUE. 
 Stanford's Catalogue of Maps and Books for Tourists post free on application, 
 
 London : EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.C. 
 Geographer to His Majesty the King, 
 
1905. 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. 
 
 47 
 
 Itturrap's handbooks for Crauellers. 
 
 "A great deal more than mere mechanical guides ; they are intelligent, discreet, 
 and frequently scholarly companions." — The Times. 
 
 ENGLISH HANDBOOKS, 
 
 BERKS. Entirely rewritten. 5 Maps and Plans. 6s. 
 
 BUCKINGHAMSHIRE— Eton, Wyeombe, Aylesbury, Bucking- 
 ham, StOWe, &C. Revised and largely rewritten. 2 Maps. 6s. 
 
 CORNWALL. 7 Maps and Plans. 11th Edition. 6s. 
 
 DERBY, NOTTS, LEICESTER, and STAFFORD. 12 Maps and 
 Plans. 3rd Edition. 9s. 
 
 DURHAM and NORTHUMBERLAND. 5 Maps and Plans. 10s. 
 
 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 3 Maps and Plans. 4th Edition. 6s. 
 
 HAMPSHIRE. 8 Maps and Plans. 5th Edition. 6s. 
 
 HERTS, HUNTINGDON, and BEDS. 10 Maps and Plans. 7s. 6(7. 
 
 ISLE OF WIGHT. Map. 5th Edition. 2s. 6d. 
 
 KENT. 7 Maps. 5th Edition. 7s. 6d. 
 
 THE LAKES (WESTMORELAND and CUMBERLAND). 5 Maps. 6s. 
 LINCOLNSHIRE. 2nd Edition. Revised and largely rewritten. Map 
 and 3 Plans. 7s. 6d. 
 "The best book of the kind that deals with the county."— Manchester Guardian. 
 LANCASHIRE. Map. 6s. 
 
 NORTHAMPTON and RUTLAND. 4 Maps and Plans. 2nd Edition. 
 7s. 6d. 
 
 OXFORDSHIRE. 13 Maps and Plans. 6s. 
 
 SHROPSHIRE and CHESHIRE. 8. Maps and Plana, SrdEdition. 6s. 
 SOMERSET. 8 Maps and Plans. 5th Edition. 6s. 
 SURREY. 6 Maps. 5th Edition. 6s. 
 SUSSEX. 7 Maps. 5th Edition, 6s. 
 NORTH WALES. 5 Maps. 5th Edition. 6s. 
 SOUTH WALES. Map. 4th Edition. 6s. 
 WARWICKSHIRE. 10 Maps and Plans. 6s. 
 WILTS and DORSET. 9 Maps and Plans. 5th Edition. 6s. 
 WORCESTER and HEREFORD. 5 Maps! 4th Edition. 5s. 
 YORKSHIRE. 28 Maps and Plans. 4th Edition. Remodelled and 
 thoroughly revised. 14s. 
 
 CYCLIST'S ROAD-BOOK. From London to the New Forest. 
 
 With a Road Atlas . Fcp. 8vo. 2s. 
 
 SCOTLAND. 57 Maps and Plans. 8th Edition. Edited by Scott 
 Moncrieff Penny, M.A. Remodelled, enlarged and thoroughly 
 revised. 10s. 6d. 
 "Contains all that the traveller in Scotland . . . requires to know."— Scotsman. 
 IRELAND. 43 Maps and Plans. 6th Edition. 9s. 
 
 "The very best guide to Irelaud." — The Freeman's Journal. 
 ENGLAND and WALES. Alphabetically arranged. 2nd Edition. 
 Map. 12s. 
 
 ENVIRONS Of LONDON. Including 20 Miles round the Metropolis. 
 2 Parts. 21s. ___ 
 
 London: EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.C. 
 
 Geographer to Mis Majesty the King. 
 
48 
 
 MURRAY'S HANDBOOK ADVERTISER. May, 1905. 
 
 EDWARD STANFORD. 
 
 PASSPORTS. 
 
 British Subjects, who are preparing to visit the Continent, 
 may be saved much trouble and expense by obtaining 
 Foreign Office Passports through Edward Stanford's 
 Agency, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, London, W.C., whose 
 experience and long-established arrangements enable him 
 to ensure Passports in proper form, without personal 
 attendance. The Passport, which is good for life, can 
 be mounted on Muslin, in Roan or Morocco Case, for the 
 pocket. Residents in the country can have Passports 
 obtained, completed, and forwarded by post. 
 
 The Visa of the Consul of any Country can be obtained. 
 Those for Russia, Turkey, or Roumania are compulsory ; 
 for other countries they are optional, but frequently 
 advisable. 
 
 Form of application and any other particulars can be 
 sent by return of post. 
 
 London Agent for the Sale of the Ordnance and Geological 
 Survey Maps, and for the Maps issued by the Intelligence 
 Division of the War Office ; 
 
 ALSO FOR 
 
 The Indian Trigonometrical Survey Maps, the Admiralty 
 Charts, the Publications of the Royal Geographical Society, 
 the Royal Meteorological Society, the Geologists' Association, 
 the Royal Sanitary Institute, &e. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 EDWARD STANFORD, 12, 13, & 14, Long Acre, W.C. 
 
 GEOGRAPHER TO HIS MAJESTY THE KING. 
 
GETTY RESEARCH INSTITUTE 
 
 ! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 31 
 
 25 01451 0271 
 
NORTHERN EUROPE 
 
 FRANCE, Part II : Central France, Auverg 
 Burgundy, The Rhone and Saone, Provence, NImes, 
 The French Alps, Alsace, Lorraine, Champagne, &c. 
 7«. 6d. 
 
 23 Maps and Plans. 
 
 Maps and Plans. 
 
 BELGIUM. 
 
 18 Maps and Plans. 
 
 AND NORTH GERMANY, 
 thu ringer wald, saxon switzerl. 
 , Taunus, Odenwald, Elsass and Lothr: 
 
 Jutland. 6 Maps and Plans. 7s. 6d. 
 
 SWEDEN, Stockholm, Upsala, Gothenburg, The Lakes, 
 of the Baltic, &c. 
 
 NORWAY, Christian i a, Bergen, Trondhjem, The Fjeli 
 
 Fjords, With Special information for Fishermen and Cyclists. By T. ] 
 
 RUSSIA, St. Petersburg, Moscow, 
 Caucasus, Siberia, &c. 
 
 Poland, Finland, Crimea, 
 
 CENTRAL EUROPE. 
 
 SOUTH GERMANY AND AUSTRIA, Part I. : Wurtemburg, 
 Bavaria, Austria, Hungary, Istria, and the Danube from Ulm to the 
 Black Sea. With 34 Maps and Plans. 7s. Qd, 
 
 SOUTH GERMANY AND AUSTRIA, Part II.: 
 
 Salzburg Styria, and the Eastern Alps. With 7 Maps and Pla 
 
 SWITZERLAND.— The Cantons of Geneva, Vaud, ane 
 Neuchatel, Chamonix and the Neighbouring Valleys, Zeb 
 Neighbouring Vat leys, the Lepontine Alps, the Bernese 
 Lucerne, and the St. Gotthard, the Lago Maggiore 
 Como, the Cantons of Zug, Schwyz and Glarus, the Sour 
 the Engadine, the Prattigau, and Davos, North ! -East 
 19th Edition. Completely remodelled and thoroughly revised. 
 Plans. 10s. 
 
 SOUTHERN EUROPE. 
 
 SPAIN, Madrid, The Castiles, The Basque Provin 
 i asturias, ^ g alicia, estre madura, andalusia, ronda, 
 Valencia, Catalonia, Aragon, Navarre, The Baleark 
 With 42 Maps and Plans. In 2 Parts. 20*. 
 
 PORTUGAL, Lisbon, Oporto, Cintra, Mapra. With 
 of Madeira, The Azores, and Canary Islands. Maps and Plans, 
 
 Verona, Padua, Venice, Bologna, Ravenna, Parma, Modena, Ge: 
 With 84 Maps and Plans. 10s. 
 
 ITALY !AN!D : MjO&ENCJ3, ' iuccA, Tfes<MQf|S , 
 
 rEE Marches, &c. VMh Edition, Almost entirely re-written by the Rev. 
 eson, M.A. With New Maps and Plans. Crown 8vo. 9*. 
 
 • 1 " ' I I If '^'f&xku {Continued,