^"^^1^ ^ 
 
 WEALE'S RUDIMENTARY SCIENTIFIC 
 AND ED UCATIONAL SEEIES. 
 
 The following are the Works already published in 
 ARCHITECTURE, BUILDING, &c. 
 
 (The Volumes are bound in limp cloth, except where otherwise stated.) 
 LRCHITEGTURE— ORDERS— The Orders and their 
 
 pRflNKLm Institute Librart 
 
 FHILflDELFHIfl 
 
 Class^OvIt ^ BookVi I ^ ^ Accession 7 
 
 those books intended for circulation. i ' ^ v 
 
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mm 
 
 
 A SELECTION FROM WEALE' 
 
 -4 OiY BUILDING, Civil ajid Ecclesias^ 
 
 including Church Restoration ; with the Theory of Dome£;da.d 
 the Great Pyramid, and Dimenbions of many Churches and (5<^r 
 Great Buildings. By Sir Edmund Beckett, Bart. ^ ' 
 
 i 
 
 F.R.A.S., Chancellor and Vicar-General of York. 
 Edition, Enlarged, 4s. 6d. ; cloth boards, 5s. ^ , 
 
 PLUMBING: a Text-book to the Practice of the Art 
 ; or Craft of the Plumber. With Chapters upon House Drainage, 
 
 embodying the latest improvements. By W. P. Buchan, Sani- jsf 
 
 tary Engineer. Second Edition, revised and much enlarged, rp 
 
 With 300 Illustrations. 3s. 6d. ; cloth boards, 4s. -T^ 
 
 HQTT^T? T>ATATTTwa aRATNING. MAEBLINGy ^ 
 
 Off of 
 3. liius. 7^; 
 
 i Dwell- 
 ^rchitect. 
 
 FOUNDATIONS AND CONCRETE 
 E. DoBsoN, M.R.I.B.A., &c. Is. 6d. 
 
 WORKS. By 
 
 ^ LIMES, CEMENTS, MORTARS, CONCRETES, MC^ 
 
 MASTICS, J^LASTERING, ^c. By G. R. Burnell, C.E. 
 ^ Is. 6d. ! 
 
 WARMING AND VENTILATION; being a Concise 
 Exposition of the General Principles of the Art of Warming and '¥^^ 
 Ventilating Domestic and Public Buildings, Mines, Lighthouses, i^T 
 Ships, &c. By Charles ToMLiNSox, F.R.S., &c. Illustrated. 3s. 
 CONSTRUCTION OF DOOR LOCKS AND IRON 
 SAFES, Edited by Charles Tomlinson, F.R.S. 2s. 6d. 4^-- 
 
 CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO., 7, STATIONERS' HALL COURT, E.C. ^ 
 
 IM^^ '^^SC 
 
PRACTICAL BEICKLAYING. 
 
THE RUDIMENTS OF 
 
 PEACTICAL BRICKLAYING 
 
 IN SIX SECTIONS: 
 
 GENERAL PRINrCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING; ARCH DRAWING, 
 CUTTING, AND SETTING; DIFFERENT KINDS OF 
 POINTING; PAVING, TILING, MATERIALS; SLATING, AND 
 PLASTERING ; PRACTICAL GEOMETRY, 
 MENSURATION, etc. 
 
 By ADAM HAMMOND 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH SIXTY-EIGHT WOODCUTS 
 
 FOURTH EDITION 
 
 ^ LONDON 
 
 CROSBY LOCKWOOD AND CO. 
 
 7, STATIONERS' HALL COURT, LUDGATE HILL 
 1882 
 
OOA/S 
 
PEEFACE. 
 
 The object of this little work is to assist young 
 beginners and others who, though in the trade 
 many years, have not had the opportunity of 
 eeing so much of the higher branches of practice 
 as they might desire. I also trust it will not be 
 thought unworthy the notice of the more skilful 
 mechanic. 
 
 The language I have used is as simple as the 
 subject would allow, and the terms used are those 
 well understood in the trade ; for it is to be 
 regretted that the greater number of books upon 
 " building construction'^ are written in such 
 terms that it is very difficult for the majority 
 of working men to understand their meaning 
 without continually referring to a technical 
 dictionary. 
 
 In speaking of foundations, I have said nothing 
 of those which are formed in soft situations, upon 
 
vi 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 piles, or woodwork of any description ; for in such 
 cases the bricklayer has nothing to do with the 
 work until the foundation is made. 
 
 I have no hesitation in saying the methods 
 here employed in drawing and cutting arches, 
 also in mixing the materials and executing the 
 different sorts of pointing, are practically the 
 best, and those generally adopted by the most 
 experienced workmen. 
 
 For the sake of those who have not had an 
 opportunity of learning Geometry and Mensura- 
 tion, such problems are given as are generally 
 required in bricklaying. 
 
 The tables, and also the quantities of materials, 
 have been carefully calculated ; and during the 
 eighteen years I have been in practice I have 
 proved them correct. 
 
 Adam Hammond. 
 
 London, December ^ 1874. 
 
COITTEIs^TS. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 
 
 pag:? 
 
 Foundations 1 
 
 Concrete and Concreting 3 
 
 Drains 4 
 
 Footings 4 
 
 Bonding — 
 
 Old English 5 
 
 Flemisli Bond 6 
 
 Broken Bond 8 
 
 Herringbone Bonding .8 
 
 Double Herringbone Bonding 10 
 
 Garden-wall Bond 10 
 
 Damp Courses 11 
 
 Air Bricks 11 
 
 Wood and Iron Bonding 11 
 
 Joints 12 
 
 Window Sills 13 
 
 Rubble Work 14 
 
 Brick and Stone combined 15 
 
 Limes, Cements, &c. — 
 
 Blue Lias Lime 16 
 
 Dorking and Hailing Limes 16 
 
 Chalk Lime 17 
 
Vlii CONTENTS. 
 
 "PAGB 
 
 Limes, Cements, <S:c. 
 
 Cements . . . . 17 
 
 Portland Cement 17 
 
 Wood Bricks 18 
 
 Frost 19 
 
 Toothings 19 
 
 Thick and Thin Joints— their Evils 19 
 
 Profiles , , . 20 
 
 Trammels • • , • . . • 21 
 
 SECTION II. 
 DEAWJNG, CUTTING, AND SETTING AECHES. 
 
 Plain Arches 23 
 
 Axed Arches 24 
 
 Gauge-T\'ork . 25 
 
 Various Arches used in the Building Trades — 
 
 The Semi- circular 26 
 
 The Segment 26 
 
 The Camber 26 
 
 The Gothic 26 
 
 The Elliptic Gothic 27 
 
 The Semi-ellipse 27 
 
 Drawing Arches — 
 
 The Semi-circular .29 
 
 The Segment 31 
 
 The Camber Arch 32 
 
 The Gothic 35 
 
 The Eeduced or Modified Gothic .... 36 
 
 The Ellipse Gothic 37 
 
 The Semi-ellipsis 39 
 
 The Wheel Arch, or Bull's Eye .... 41 
 
 Moulding 42 
 
 Setting 44 
 
 Axed Work 46 
 
CONTENTS. <^is: 
 
 SECTION III. ^"" ^ 1 / 
 DIFFERENT KINDS OF POINTING. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Stock Work with the White Joint 47 
 
 Yellow Stopping 48 
 
 White Putty " . . .48 
 
 Eed Brickwork , . .51 
 
 Eed Stopping 51 
 
 White Brickwork . . , 52 
 
 Black Putty 52 
 
 Red Putty 53 
 
 Old Brickwork 53 
 
 Flat-joint Pointing 54 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 PAVING, TILING, USE OF MATERIALS, Etc. 
 
 Paving — 
 
 Brick Paving 55 
 
 Plain Paving 55 
 
 Tile Paving 56 
 Tiling- 
 Roofing Tile3 57 
 
 Plain Tiling 58 
 
 Scaffolding qq 
 
 Relieving Arches . . , , , , , . Gl 
 
 Bakers' Ovens 62 
 
 Smoky Chimneys— their Causes, &c 63 
 
 To proportion Windows to Rooms 64 
 
 Materials— their Use, <S:c.— Memoranda and Tables, 
 showing the Quantities of Materials required for 
 
 various Kinds of Work— their Weight, &c. . . 65 
 
X 
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 SLATER AND PLASTERER'S WORK. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Slater — 
 
 Description of Slater's Work . , . " , .70 
 
 Gauge, Lap'* Margin, &c 71 
 
 Table of Sizes and Gauges of Roofing Slates . . 73 
 
 Slater's Scaffold .74 
 
 Plasterer — 
 
 Plasterer's Work 74 
 
 Lime and Hair, or Coarse Stuff 75 
 
 Fine Stuff, or Putty 75 
 
 The Operations of Plastering 77 
 
 Rough Stucco 79 
 
 Laid Work 79. 
 
 Cement Floors 80 
 
 Plaster and W elsh Lime Floors .... 80 
 Memoranda of Materials and Quantities required for 
 different Kinds of Plastering . . . .81 
 
 Artificial Stone 82 
 
 Distempering of Ceilings, Walls, &c 83 
 
 SECTION VI. 
 PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 
 
 • Geometry 84 
 
 Prohlem I. — From a given point in a straight line to 
 
 erect a perpendicular . . . .87 
 When the point is at the end of the 
 line 88 
 
 II. — Upon a given right line to describe an 
 
 equilateral triangle . , . • 88 
 
CONTEIS'TS. xi 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Problem III. — To describe a triangle, having the length of 
 
 the three sides given . . . .89 
 
 „ IV. — To find the centre of a given circle . . 80 
 ,^ Y. — To describe a regular pentagon upon a 
 
 given line ...... 89 
 
 „ VI. — To describe a regular hexagon upon a 
 
 given lino 90 
 
 Table of Polygons showing an easy Method of drawing 
 any Polygon, from Five to Twelve Sides, the Length of 
 the Side or Diameter of circumscribing Circle being 
 
 given 90 
 
 Description of the above Table, with Examples . . 91 
 Problem VII. — To describe an ellipsis, having the 
 
 longest diameter given . . .92 
 Another method of describing an ellipse 93 
 „ VIII. — To describe a circle about any triangle . 93 
 „ IX. — To inscribe a circle within a triangle . 91 
 
 „ X. — In a given circle to inscribe a square . 91 
 
 „ XI. — In a given circle, to inscribe any regular 
 
 polygon ; or, to divide the circumfer- 
 ence of a given circle into any number 
 of equal parts . . . . .9-1 
 „ XII. — To draw a straight line equal to any 
 
 given arc of a circle . . . .95 
 „ XIII. — To make a square equal in area to a 
 
 given circle 9a 
 
 A FEW REMAEKS ON MENSURATION OF 
 BRICKLAYERS' WORK. 
 
 Duodecimals 96 
 
 Decimal Fractions . . 97 
 
 Subtraction of Decimals . , 99 
 
 Multiplication of Decimals 99 
 
 Division of Decimals 100 
 
 How Brickwork is measured — with Examples . . . 101 
 
 To find the Contents of Chimneys and Chimney Shafts . 103 
 
xii CONTEXTS. 
 
 Chimney Shafts in the Form of a Circle . . . .103 
 When the Shaft is in the Form of a Eegular Polygon . 105 
 
 Table for measuring Polygons 105 
 
 Vaulting 106 
 
 Groins 106 
 
 Bakers' Ovens 106 
 
 A Table of Brickwork, showing an easy Method of finding 
 the Quantity of Feet and Bricks contained in any 
 Number of Supeificial Feet, from 1 Foot to 10,000 Feet, 
 
 by Addition only 106 
 
 Explanation of Table .107 
 
 Mensuration of Gauge- work . . . . . .114 
 
 Old and new Bricks stacked in Bolts .... 114 
 
 Short and useful Table 114 
 
 Tiling and Slating 114 
 
 Paving . . . . * . , * . .115 
 Plastering • • . « . * . . .115 
 
THE RUDIMENTS 
 
 OP 
 
 PEACTICAL BEICKLAYING. 
 
 SECTION I. 
 
 GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 
 
 The Business of a Bricklayer not only consists in 
 the execution of all kinds of brickwork, but it 
 also includes rough stonework or ^'walling," 
 paving, and tiling, both plain and ornamental ; 
 and (in many parts of the country) slating 
 and plastering is united with the above-named 
 business. The bricklayer also superintends all 
 excavations and concreting for ordinary building 
 purposes. 
 
 In preparing for the erection of most buildings 
 the first things required are the plans, elevations, 
 sections, &c., and upon these too much care 
 cannot be bestowed so that the foreman may 
 get them thoroughly impressed upon his mind, 
 for by so doing very many mistakes will be 
 prevented. 
 
 Foundations. 
 
 The ground should be set out from a given 
 line, such as the face-line of the building, and 
 wood stakes driven into the ground on which to 
 
2 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 stram the different lines. Great care is required 
 in squaring out the foundation trenches so that 
 the brickwork (when built) shall stand in the 
 centre of them, and not all on one side of the 
 trench and none on the other, which is but too 
 frequently the case, for the greatest care is 
 usually taken when the loall line is drawn. 
 
 The sides of the trenches ought to be upright, 
 so that there is not a less area for the concrete 
 at the bottom than there is at the top : for 
 upon this in a great measure depends the strength 
 of the superstructure. 
 
 Should the ground be " an incline planey^ or 
 unlevely it is much better to bench the ground 
 carefully out — that is, cut out the bottom of the 
 trench in horizontal steps. The concrete will 
 then be of a more uniform thickness, and the 
 settlement of the building will be more regular ; 
 for it must be remembered that nearly all build- 
 ings are built with materials that will settle 
 little or much, and it does not so much matter 
 as long as the settlement is perfectly regular, but 
 the evil effects are seen when it is greater in one 
 part than in another, and, in concrete as well as 
 brickwork, the greater the thickness the more 
 will be the settlement. 
 
 It is usual to drive stakes in the bottom of the 
 trenches to show the level of concrete ; but 
 perhaps it would be better, if possible, to drive 
 these stakes in the sides of the trenches, leaving 
 just enough projecting out to level them with, 
 for very often by shooting the concrete into the 
 
trench the stakes are knocked further intfJ" the 
 ground and the concrete levelled to thern^ therei)y 
 causing a great deal of trouble when the Brick- 
 work is begun. 
 
 Concrete. 
 
 The limes'' generally used for concreting in 
 this country are obtained from Dorking in 
 Surrey, and Rochester in Kent,* besides other 
 places where the grey limestone is to be obtained. 
 
 This lime is ground and mixed with ballast 
 while in a powdered state ; it is then wetted and 
 turned over twice, to mix them well together ; 
 this is then wheeled in barrows to an elevated 
 position and thrown into the trenches, and after- 
 wards levelled to receive the brickwork. This 
 kind of concrete is mixed in the proportions of 
 one part of lime to six or seven parts of gravel. 
 Although this kind of concrete is very much 
 used in and about London, it is considered a very 
 imperfect method, although economical as regards 
 the labour: it proves most expensive in the 
 material, for if the work was properly executed 
 it would not require nearly so much of the latter. 
 
 The method of concreting which is thought by 
 most engineers to be the best is, to reduce the 
 lime to the state of a thick paste, and tlien it is 
 made into a soft mortar by mixing about an 
 equal quantity of sand with it before it is mixed 
 with the gravel ; and instead of shooting it down 
 from a height and leaving it to settle by itself, it 
 
 * This is open to local circumstances. 
 B 2 
 
4 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 ought to be wheeled in upon a level and beatei: 
 with a rammer ; for it is thought by being 
 thrown from a height the materials separate, and 
 by so doing some parts get more lime than they 
 ought to have, while others get but very little. 
 
 Of course this kind of artificial foundations is 
 not required where there is a natural one, such 
 as a bed of rock, hard gravel, or anything that is 
 thought sound enough to sustain the weight of 
 the building. 
 
 Drains. 
 
 As soon as the concreting is completed, all 
 levels should be taken for the drains, &c., so that 
 the brickwork is not cut about afterwards ; and 
 if the pipes are very large it would be better to 
 leave out the brickwork so that they may be 
 fixed after the work has had time to settle. And 
 if a small arch of brick is turned over each of 
 these pipes, it will be found very convenient 
 should they want repairing or cleaning at any 
 time. 
 
 Footings. 
 
 In all buildings of any importance it is usual 
 to build a certain number of courses as footings 
 (as shown in Fig. 1) to give the 
 ' I * ■ walls a greater bearing ; and 
 ~1 I I where the building is principally 
 
 I i I I I |— 1-| constructed with pairs, such as 
 j,.^ ^ a great many warehouses, &c., 
 
 inverted arches are turned for 
 the purpose of distributing the weight over the 
 
GENERAL PRINCirLES OF BRICKLAYING. 
 
 whole length of the foundation, as shown in 
 Fig. 2. Sometimes these are formed in the 
 
 II II 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 footing courses, but generally upon the top of the 
 footings. 
 
 Bonding. 
 
 The next thing of importance is the bonding 
 of the brickwork, of which a great deal may be 
 said, for this is a very important part of brick- 
 laying. 
 
 Old English is that which is used in nearly all 
 buildings where strength is the principal object, 
 as it is the strongest of any, on account of the 
 greater quantity of headers used, and also 
 because there are less broken bricks required to 
 fill in with. 
 
 But the appearance is not considered so neat as 
 Flemish bond. 
 
 Figs. 3 and 4 show two successive courses of 
 Old English bond : in all cases the inside headers 
 and stretchers should be opposite those of the 
 same names on the outside {i,e, a is opposite b. 
 Fig. 3). If this rule is strictly adhered to, there 
 will always be correct quarter bond throughout 
 the whole thickness of the wall. 
 
 Very often but little attention is paid to 
 
6 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 the middle of the wally so loDg as the faces are 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 kept right, although it is of quite as much 
 importance. 
 
 Figs. 5 and 6 show the bonding of the face and 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 "i' 'i' 'i' 'i' ' 
 
 
 
 
 "i' 'i' 'i' 'i' ' 
 
 _iYi- 
 
 
 
 II 1 1 'i 1 'i 1 'i i' 
 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 I I 
 
 IT 
 
 end of what is called an 18-inch, or two-brick 
 wall, in Old English bond. 
 
 Flemish Bond (Fig. 7) is very much used for 
 -J house building, owing to its 
 1 neater appearance. But very 
 often the inside of the house 
 is Old English ; and when the 
 walls are built in this manner, 
 the heading bricks of the Fle- 
 mish work are halved bats," as they are more 
 generally called) every second course ; and by so 
 
 TT 
 
 XE 
 
 TT" 
 
 II 
 
 tj: 
 
 TT 
 
 JL_L 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 7 
 
 doing the inside of the wall gets a half-brick tie 
 into the face work. 
 
 In Flemish bond the headers and stretchers 
 are laid in turns in each course, as shown in 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 In all cases where quoins are to be got up at 
 different parts of the building, gauge-rods should 
 be used after the work has been levelled, and a 
 nail or something of the kind knocked into the 
 work at the level of which it is intended to gauge 
 from. 
 
 If this is not done, different bricklayers will 
 raise their work some more and some less than 
 the others, thereby causing the work to get out 
 of level. 
 
 If it be possible every man ought to be kept 
 on his own work ; then he is more likely to take 
 an interest in that particular part. But if they 
 are not, when one man goes on to another's work 
 there is often a great deal of fault-finding, and if 
 the work is wrong it is simply impossible to find 
 out who it was that did it. 
 
 Architects are generally under the impression 
 that the bricks used in and about London are 
 something under 9 inches in length, 4^ inches 
 wide, and 2^ inches thick ; the thickness may be 
 about right, but the other dimensions are decidedly 
 wrong. This causes a great deal of trouble to 
 the bricklayer when working to plans ; because 
 he is asked to build a wall (for instance) eighteen 
 inches thick, the regular bond of a two-brick wall, 
 which is impossible to do without cutting the 
 
8 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 bricks, as they are from nine inches to nine inches 
 and a quarter in length, and never less than the 
 former. 
 
 Again, as regards the width of the brick, if it 
 were 4J inches, it would be impossible to build, 
 say, a 9-inch wall, giving it the proper wall-joint,* 
 without sailing the stretching course over ; which, 
 of course, is against all rule. 
 
 This is the reason (the bricks being only 4| 
 inches wide) that bricklayers have to cut so many 
 three-quarters, or long bats, in face-work, to keep 
 the cross-joints^ quarter-bond on the stretchers. 
 
 Broken Bond, — A great deal of this might be 
 done away with if the plans were got out to suit 
 the bricks more than they usually are ; for very 
 often we see pairs between openings sixteen, 
 twenty, and thirty inches in length, without the 
 least regard to what the bricks will work ; thereby 
 causing a great quantity of brick to be wasted, 
 more labour, and then the work is nothing near 
 so strong as if the work had been arranged so 
 that the bricks would work without cutting them. 
 
 It is very necessary, when laying the first 
 course on the footings, that all doorways, windows, 
 and other openings, should be measured, and the 
 bond properly set out, so that there is no diffi- 
 culty when the work is up, ready to receive them, 
 and the perpends t are kept throughout the 
 height of the building. 
 
 Serringhone Bonding, as shown in Fig. 7a, is 
 
 * Three-eighths of an inch between the bricks, 
 t The cross joints in a perpendicular line. 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF 
 
 LAYING. C 9 
 
 ther iiaces 
 ain 
 
 greatly used for cores of arches a ^. . 
 
 where something different to the r'fe^j^r ^'a 
 work is required in the shape of ornarnenra£ion. 
 But it has but very little tie with the inside work. 
 This work should be begun and continued with 
 
 the set square of 45 degrees ; and if the bricks 
 are all of one length, the joints will all cut 
 straight with one another, showing so many 
 oblique lines at an angle of 45 degrees with the 
 horizontal from where the herringbone started ; 
 that is, place the set square upon the base-line 
 A B, Fig. 7 A, in such a manner that the right 
 angle of the square shall be uppermost and the 
 longest side upon the line, and as it is drawn 
 along from a to b, or from b to a (if the work 
 is right), it will cut in a line with the joints c d, 
 E F, &c., and as the work proceeds it will be 
 necessary to either hold up a levelled straight- 
 edge and work the square upon it, or otherwise 
 draw a line perfectly level, and so hold the 
 square to it. 
 
 But to do this kind of work properly, it is 
 really necessary that every brick should be of one 
 length, that is, what three courses of bricks will 
 measure upright when laid temporarily with joints 
 B 3 
 
10 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 the same thickness as those required for the 
 herringboning. If the joints are to be small 
 very often the bricks will have to be cut short, 
 and this gives it a better appearance than 
 having thick joints, and, beside, it is much 
 stronger work if it is well grouted in at the 
 back. Bu^ in all cases let the grout be of the 
 same kirt-i as the work is built with. 
 
 Fig. 8 represents another style of herringbone. 
 This is called Double Herringhone,^^ on account 
 
 of two bricks being 
 worked instead of one, 
 as shown in Fig. 7a. 
 The working of this is 
 much the same as 
 Fig. 7a, but perhaps a 
 little more difficult in 
 the arrangement of the bricks ; nevertheless the 
 joints must cut one with another just the same as 
 the ^'perpends" of plain brickwork. If the 
 bricks are cut to 8| inches in length the work 
 wdll show a very neat joint, and the workman 
 will have less trouble in keeping his work right. 
 But it is very frequently done without any care 
 being taken to get the bricks to suit the work, 
 or to keep them in their proper places while 
 laying them. 
 
 Garden Wall Bond, as it is generally called, 
 is that which is in practice usually when building 
 9-inch walling, which requires to be faced on both 
 sides ; and as the headers cause an unsightly 
 appearance if worked through too often, it is 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 11 
 
 usual to work three stretchers between two 
 " headers/^ instead of one, as in Flemish bond. 
 
 Damp Courses. 
 
 As soon as the work is above ground it ought to 
 receive a course of something to prevent the damp 
 from rising up into the walls, and for this purpose 
 asphalte is often used to cover the walls. But where 
 this is difficult to be obtained a double course oj 
 slates bedded in Portland cement will generally 
 answer the same purpose ; but they must be so 
 bonded, that no two joints shall be over each 
 other to allow the dampness to rise between them. 
 
 Air Bricks, 
 
 where the ground-floors of the building are to be 
 laid with boards, should be built in the face of the 
 walls, and a passage left through, so that the aii 
 can freely circulate under the floors, and by leaving 
 two or three bricks out in different places of the 
 inside or parting walls to any part of the building 
 where required. 
 
 Wood and Iron Bonding. 
 
 In addition to the regular bonding of brickwork, 
 as before described, a further security is sometimes 
 provided in the form of bond timber ; that is, long 
 lengths of wood cut to the form of a 4|-inch 
 course of bricks, and so laid throughout the length 
 of the walls to answer as a longitudinal tie, and 
 also to keep the pairs between openings steady 
 until the work is thoroughly set. 
 
12 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 But of late years this has been superseded to 
 a great extent by hoop-iron, both on account of 
 the wood shrinking when it gets dry and so 
 causing the work to settle, also, in case of fire, 
 to have material in the building as little inflam- 
 mable as possible. 
 
 The hoop-iron is laid at different stages 
 throughout the whole building. This is sometimes 
 tarred and drawn through sand, to protect the 
 iron from contact with the mortar ; but it is more 
 frequently laid between courses of bricks, and 
 built with Portland cement, without being tarred. 
 
 Joints. 
 
 It is very necessary that all joints should be 
 kept of one thickness ; for if one piece of brick- 
 work is raised with thick bricks and another with 
 thin (as it often is when two sorts of bricks are 
 used — one for outside and the other for inside) 
 the work done with the thickest joints will settle 
 more than the other, thereby causing a fracture 
 wherever the two meet : this is the case with mortar 
 joints. Cement acts in the reverse manner, on 
 account of its sicelUng properties ; therefore in 
 both cases it is considered very unsound work. 
 
 Portland cement having this swelling property y 
 it is well adapted for underpinning old walls, 
 where the ground has been taken out for cellars, 
 &c., below the foundations ; but slate ought not 
 to be driven into the joint between the old and 
 new work for the purpose of wedging it tight, 
 for the cement will not take hold of the slate 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 13 
 
 to any great extent; besides, if the joint is well 
 filled up with cement, it will expand sufficiently 
 to wedge itself perfectly tight. 
 
 Window Sills. 
 
 Where these are of stone, it is much better to 
 leave the brickwork out at the reveals just large 
 enough so that the sill can be fixed after the 
 brickwork is up and settled ; if not, the weight 
 of the brickwork upon each end of it will very 
 likely break the sill, owing to the greater settle- 
 ment of the work between the windows (where 
 there are the greater number of mortar joints) 
 than there is directly underneath the sill. 
 
 Bricks ought to be well wetted in summer time, 
 so as to exclude the air which fills up the pores ; 
 but be careful that they are not wet if there is any 
 likelihood of frosty as it takes fast hold of work that 
 is damp, not only causing the joints to burst out, 
 but sometimes greatly disturbing the bricks. 
 
 All walls ought to be thoroughly flushed'^ up 
 every successive course with soft mortar or 
 cement, as the case may be. This is sometimes 
 preferred to grout,'^ because the latter, being so 
 much thinner, will naturally shrink more when 
 setting ; so, if there is the proper wall -joint, there 
 is little doubt but what the mortar-flushing makes 
 the soundest work. There is a common but very 
 evil practice in many places of building walls icith 
 mortar and aftericards grouting them in with Port- 
 land cement mixed with sand. Where this is the 
 case, the weight of the building must be con- 
 
14 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 sidered as standing upon the grout alone, for it is 
 well known " that cement swells and mortar shrinks 
 therefore, whenever the cement grout runs under 
 the bricks, it will surely lift them off the mortar 
 bed ; and, instead of strengthening the work, 
 it has a great tendency to weaken it. Great 
 care should be taken, in building walls of any 
 considerable length, that the line is kept perfectly 
 straight from end to end ; because if the line is 
 drawn tight one course and another loose, there 
 will be ^* brick and brick in some places, and a 
 thick joint in others, which gives the work a very 
 bad appearance. In fact the line ought to be 
 " looked through every course. 
 
 Rubble Work. 
 
 In many parts of England rubble work is done 
 to a great extent with flint and other stones ; 
 and in such cases it is usual to have brick quoins, 
 and these are generally " ashlared,'' as shown in 
 Fig. 9. In London this name is applied to 
 stone- facing. 
 
 Although flint-stones are not so well 
 I adapted for works requiring great 
 I — ' I strength as bricks, still they answer 
 — ^ — — very well for what they are generally 
 I — i — used, that is, cottage and wall-building, 
 I &c., but it is not advisable to use sea 
 
 I stones for house-building, on account of 
 
 ' — — ^ — ' the salt clinging to them causing the 
 ° * walls to turn damp in wet weather. 
 No flint-stones ought to be used in wet weather, 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. ]5 
 
 or if they are at all wet ; for this is the cause of 
 many a wall falling to the ground. 
 
 Brick and Stone Combined. 
 
 When the building is composed of brick and 
 stone, which it very often is, the bricklayer and 
 mason ought to be careful to get their work 
 arranged to suit each other, as brickwork cannot 
 be built to the specified thickness without a very 
 great deal of extra labour and waste of material. 
 For instance, a wall supposed to be built 2 feet 
 3 inches in thickness very often cannot be worked 
 under 2 feet 3f inches because the bricks are full 
 9 inches long, and a wall never ought to be built 
 without allowing room for the mortar to go be- 
 tween each brick in the middle of the wall. 
 
 And so by the stonemason cutting and work- 
 ing the stone that has to pass through the wall 
 three-quarters of an inch longer, it would save 
 the cutting of each course of bricks from begin- 
 ning to end of the wall. 
 
 And if this is not thought of in the founda- 
 tions, it will very likely cause a vast amount of 
 trouble when the work is further advanced. 
 Again, in arch work, &c., where drawing is re- 
 quired, and stone and brick are to be used, it is 
 best for both mason and bricklayer to work to 
 one drawing ; for it is possible for two separate 
 drawings to be different, so causing confusion 
 when fixing the work ; and it very often happens 
 when anything is set out wrong through the 
 oversight, carelessness, or ignorance of the fore- 
 
16 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 man, the blame is directly thrown on to the 
 workman for the purpose of clearing himself. 
 But this is a cowardly way of doing business, and 
 cannot be too much condemned. 
 
 Limes, Cements, etc. 
 
 Of limes, blue lias is reckoned the best in this 
 country, because it is equally adapted for work 
 below water-leyel or for moist situations as for 
 dry ones. But it is not generally used for ordi- 
 nary building purposes, principally on account of 
 its taking but a very small proportion of sand 
 before its setting properties are weakened ; so it 
 is thought best only to use little more sand than 
 lime in the mixing. 
 
 This lime must not be made into mortar a long 
 time before it is required as other limes often 
 are, or else it will get so hard that it will be of 
 very little use for the purpose of laying bricks. 
 
 This lime will take less water than the other 
 limes usually do ; and it ought to be slacked 
 several hours before it is made into mortar, as 
 some parts will take much longer than others. 
 
 The principal supplies of lias limestone are 
 obtained from Aberthaw, near Cardiff, in Wales ; 
 Barrow, near Mount Sorrel, in Leicestershire ; 
 and Watchet. 
 
 Dorking and Hailing Limes. — These may 
 be considered the principal limes used in and 
 about London for making mortar, owing to their 
 taking a greater quantity of sand than any other 
 before their setting properties are weakened, the 
 usual proportions being three or four parts of 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 17 
 
 sand to one of lime. But it must remembered f 
 that very often it is not the quantr§^^\x.t the 
 quality of sand that destroys the lime the 
 cleaner and sharper the sand, the better the 
 mortar will be. 
 
 These limes are obtained from Dorking in 
 Surrey; and between Rochester and Maidstone 
 in Kent. 
 
 Chalk Lime is seldom used in London for out- 
 side work, because it sets so slowly, and in damp 
 places never sets at all. But it is used to a great 
 extent for plastering the inside of houses, &c., 
 where there is no dampness ; and, although it is 
 not used in London for outside work, it is very 
 much used in many parts of the country, where it 
 is very cheap, and better limes are not so easily 
 obtained. 
 
 Cements, — The cements used by the builder 
 are of various kinds ; such as Portland and Roman 
 for external, and Keen^s and Martin's for internal, 
 decorations. 
 
 Portland Cement is considered the best for 
 general use, owing to its fine setting properties 
 and its cheapness ; for it takes a greater quantity 
 of sand than any other before it is much 
 weakened. This is made in difierent parts of the 
 country, principally from the cement-stone found 
 in the London clay at Harwich in Essex, and 
 the Isle of Sheppey in Kent ; and will take 
 two or three parts of sand to one of cement for 
 ordinary purposes. 
 
 But whenever it is required to set directly or 
 for water- work, it is best to use it in its pure 
 
18 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 state. For althougli sand does not prevent its 
 setting very hard after a few days, it stops its 
 setting directly. 
 
 All sands used for making up lime and cement 
 into mortar should be as free from clay or dirt as 
 possible, and the sharper the better. If this is ne- 
 glected, the best limes or cements are soon ruined. 
 
 Owing to the great demand for Portland 
 cement, a great many manufacturers have been 
 induced to bring out an artificial kind, and this is 
 as much used as that made from the cement- 
 stone ; but in reality it is but very little but clay 
 obtained from the sides of the River Medway in 
 Kent, mixed with a definite proportion of chalk 
 from the pits in the same district, and so manu- 
 factured as to produce a cement nearly equal to 
 the original. 
 
 Roman cement, although possessing many good 
 qualities, is greatly inferior to Portland, and 
 therefore is but little used by the builder. 
 
 Keen's and Martin's cements are in appearance 
 a great deal like plaster of Paris, but they set 
 much slower, thereby giving the workman more 
 time to add finish to his work before it gets hard. 
 They are almost always used for work which re- 
 quires a hard and beautiful finish. But in no case 
 should they be used for outside work, or in any 
 place where they are exposed to the action of 
 water, as they are like all pure limes, partly 
 soluble in water. 
 
 Wood Bricks. 
 Wherever woodwork is to be fixed to the walls 
 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 19 
 
 (such as door and window frames, angle beads, 
 skirting boards, &c.) wood bricks, or, rather, 
 wood joints, should be used — that is, pieces of 
 board the length and width of a brick, and about 
 three-eighths of an inch thick, should be laid 
 between two courses of bricks instead of the 
 mortar joint. These will be found far better than 
 having wood bricks the full size of the ordinary- 
 brick, because the latter generally shrink, and 
 so become loose. When the inside is to be 
 matched-lined instead of plastered, it is best to lay 
 a joint of this sort throughout the length of the 
 wall inside. If these are laid about three feet 
 apart from floor to ceiling, there will be no plug- 
 ging afterwards in fixing the matchboards. 
 
 Frost. 
 
 If the brickwork is carried on in frosty weather, 
 all walls must be carefully covered up with 
 weatherboards, straw, or something that will pro- 
 tect them ; if not, the frost will penetrate into 
 the work, and greatly destroy the strength of all 
 that which is damp. 
 
 If Portland cement is mixed with mortal the 
 frost does not take hold of it so much as it does if 
 mortar alone. 
 
 Toothings. 
 
 When necessary to carry one part of the build- 
 ing up without the other, the walls where they join 
 ought to be racked back, if possible ; if not, 
 they ought to be toothed, as shown in Fig. 10, 
 so as to avoid as much as possible upright toothings 
 from bottom to top of the wall. 
 
20 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 Thick and Thin Joints. 
 
 So mucli has been said by different writers 
 about thick joints, that it is quite unnecessary 
 for me to say that they are a very great evil, 
 III I as they cause settlements. But 
 
 , I ' I I ^ perhaps a little ought to be said 
 
 ^ ^ > I , ] about very thin ones, for it is well 
 
 ^ ^ ' ^ ^ L — I known that the bricks made in 
 , , I , ', , < most yards are not all of one 
 
 I t I I I I n . . Ml 
 
 ^ ^ I ^ ^ I ^ ^ I thickness ; and it is possible to 
 I I i buy a quantity of bricks all made 
 rig. 10. ^^^^ yard, and to find two or 
 
 three different sizes — some as much as a quarter 
 of an inch thicker than others. Therefore, when 
 these thick bricks are laid, it is found impossible 
 to keep down to the gauge to which the thin 
 ones are laid with a joint of the same thickness. 
 
 The result is, the bricklayer does not spread 
 out a bed to receive the brick, as he usually does, 
 but he ^* butters it — that is, he draws a little 
 mortar, as fine as he can get, upon the front and 
 back edges of the brick, and then lays it, leaving 
 an air-passage under every one. This is almost 
 as bad as thick joints, for it is evidently not 
 bedded at all. This is very bad work, but the 
 bricklayer cannot be blamed for it. 
 
 Profiles. 
 
 In building retaining walls, either upright or 
 battering, or, in fact, any kind of work that is to be 
 racked back to receive additional work, it is often 
 
GENERAT. PRINCIPLES OF BRICKLAYING. 21 
 
 found convenient to erect profiles upright or batter- 
 ing, as the case may be, with the face of the wall, 
 and gauged according to the gauge of the work from 
 bottom to top — and so strain the line to it ; by this 
 means the work is kept right both on the face and 
 bed. 
 
 These profiles answer very well for setting 
 arches when they are required in advance of the 
 other work ; for they can be easily set up at each 
 end, and the line for the face of the arches drawn 
 to them, and afterwards drawn perfectly level 
 over the crown of the arches, to level up the 
 brickwork between them — and in this case it will 
 answer the purpose of both level and plumb-rule. 
 
 Trammels. 
 
 Where work is to be cut to receive inverted 
 arches, such as the bottom half of a wheel arch, 
 and also cores to receive any other arches, it is 
 much best to fix trammels. These are fixed to 
 the centre, and struck with the same radius as 
 the arch. For the wheel arch, w^hen it passes 
 throughout the thickness of the wall, it is usual 
 to fix an upright piece of wood on each side of the 
 wall, and pass a bar of either wood or iron from 
 one to the other ; this will answer as a centre for 
 the trammel to swing round upon, either on one 
 side of the wall or the other. 
 
 All joints in good face- work ought to be struck 
 as full as possible without projecting beyond the 
 face of the wall, and as straight as the bricks will 
 allow. 
 
22 
 
 BRICKLAYIXG. 
 
 SECTION 11. 
 
 DRAWIXa, CUTTIXa, AXD SETTING AECHES. 
 
 It is very necessary, in speaking of arches, that 
 the reader should thoroughly understand what an 
 arch really is. It must not be supposed that any 
 kind of building material which has been used to 
 coyer an opening is necessarily an arch simply 
 because it is made to form a curve, for in many 
 cases we see a block of stone cut out in the form 
 of an arch, and placed over doorways, windows, 
 &c. ; but in the centre or crown, where the 
 proper arch is the strongest, the stone being 
 thinnest is the weakest, and being liable to break 
 at any time, causes the work above to give way. 
 
 An arch that is perfectly equal may be con- 
 sidered as a slightly elastic curved beam, and, 
 when loaded, every part is in a state of com- 
 pression. The arch that the bricklayer has to 
 deal with is a quantity of bricks so arranged that 
 they may, by their pressure one upon another, 
 not only support their own weight, but transmit 
 any weight that may be placed on them to the 
 abutments. 
 
 Therefore all bricks should be of such a shape 
 that they should ''bed'* with a perfectly equal bed- 
 joint, one against the other, and at the same time 
 carry an equal curve, or fit the centre upon which 
 the arch is turned, throughout the whole span. 
 
 And by each joint cutting in a line to the 
 point or centre from which the arch is struck, 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SETTIN^\ A1^CHES^3'^\ 
 
 each brick will be in the form of a wed^^^/fheser 
 are often called youssoirs,^' and the thickesF7)r 
 uppermost part of them the " extrados,^' and the 
 small, or that part which is fixed upon the centre, 
 the intrados,'* or soffit of the arch. 
 
 These few remarks will serve to clear the mind 
 of the reader as to what the general principles of 
 an arch are. 
 
 The higher calculations connected with the 
 designing of arches, and rules to find the weight 
 with which each course of youssoirs should be 
 loaded to bring the arch into perfect equilibrium, 
 would be out of place here, as this little work is 
 intended for the working bricklayer, and he is 
 yery seldom fortunate enough to be able to enter 
 into calculations of this kind, although they would 
 be of great service to him. 
 
 Plain Arches. 
 
 All arches turned without the bricks being cut 
 or shaped in any way may be classed under this 
 head ; and these are in general use for railway- 
 bridges, tunnels, vaultings, and all work where 
 strength is essential, and appearance no particular 
 object. 
 
 In building arches of this description, in order 
 to avoid the thick joints that would appear at the 
 extrados if the bricks were laid with the end upon 
 the centre — as they are not wedge-shaped, but of 
 one thickness throughout the length — it is usual 
 to build them in rings the thickness of half a 
 brick, or brick on edge, so that each ring is 
 
24 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 separate, having no connection with the others 
 beyond the cohesion of the mortar in the collar- 
 joints between them, except a heading-course 
 occasionally, whenever the joints of two rings 
 happen to coincide : sometimes this is objected to. 
 
 It is very necessary that each ring should be pro- 
 perly bonded throughout the length of the arch, 
 and also that the joints should be of a regular 
 thickness. For if the soffit-ring is built with a thick 
 bed-joint, and the second ring with a thin one, the 
 thick joints will shrink most, thereby causing an 
 unsightly fracture between the two, and so deprive 
 the arch of the strength of the bottom ring. 
 
 Mortar made with good lime is considered by 
 many better than cement for this kind of work, for 
 very often cement sets before the work is complete, 
 and any little accident in striking the centres, or from 
 any other cause, is very liable to break the arch. 
 
 Let it be here understood that no kind of arch 
 ought to be turned without the centre has folding 
 wedges, so as to drop it, when the arch is finished, 
 as easily as possible, and without shaking the arch. 
 
 These wedges ought to be drawn a little a day 
 or two before the centres are really struck, so as 
 to give the arch its bearing.'' 
 
 Axed Arches. 
 
 These are used very much in the present day, 
 on account of their taking less labour, as it is 
 thought. But it is an inferior sort of work at 
 the best, and often costs as much as gauge-work 
 by the time it is finished. 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SE^Tl^'a)^CHE§|^^ 
 
 The bricks of these are simplySe^c'ed d6^n ta*a 
 given size, and nothing but the soffl^^ ^.rp rutb^d ; 
 and this is done after they are broug^ to the 
 required bevel with the hammer boaster and 
 scotch ; they are then set in cement, with a joint 
 about three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness, 
 and afterwards pointed. 
 
 Gauge Work. 
 
 This consists of all kinds of work that is cut and 
 brought down to a given gauge upon the rubbing- 
 stone ; such as all kinds of arches, mouldings for 
 external cornices, architraves to doorways and 
 windows, eaves, &c., and is considered the most 
 important branch of the trade. 
 
 For this purpose a shed should be built to 
 protect the bricks that are to be cut from the wet, 
 and also large enough for the workmen to erect 
 their benches and chopping-blocks to suit their 
 own convenience. They then require the rubbing- 
 stone and a bedding-block. The former ought to 
 be in the form of a circle, and not exceeding 14 
 inches in diameter ; for if it is, it will be very 
 likely to rub out of level on the face, that is, 
 either hollow or cambering ; and even with this 
 size it will be found necessary to turn it round in 
 its bed about once a day w^hen in use, for if the 
 stone is unlevel the bricks will assuredly be the 
 same, making very bad work. 
 
 The bedding-block is square and of a perfectly 
 smooth surface. It is used for the purpose of 
 scribing and fitting the bricks to the moulds, and 
 
26 
 
 BRICKLAYING, 
 
 is usually made to the size of one course of the arch, 
 if double-faced ; if not, about 14 by 18 inches. 
 
 Various Arches used in the Building Trade. 
 
 It is necessary that the bricklayer should 
 thoroughly understand the names of all arches 
 used in the building trade, and also what is 
 meant by these names. The following are the 
 principal arches used in building construction : — 
 
 The Semi'Cireular, as shown in Fig. 11. 
 
 The Sc(j}ne7ity which is the part of a circle only, 
 as Fig. 12. 
 
 Fig. 11. Fig. 12. 
 
 The Camber (Fig. 13). — This arch is a very small 
 part of a circle, as it is generally reckoned to rise 
 only one-eighth of an inch to the foot ; so if the 
 span of the arch is four feet, 
 \ ^ 'y/ the crown or centre of the 
 
 Fig 13 soffit will only be half an 
 
 inch above the springing 
 line, and the top ought not to be more than a 
 quarter of an inch above a straight line drawn 
 from the top of each skewback ; then, by the 
 slight settlement of the arch when taking its 
 bearing/^ this line will have the appearance of 
 being perfectly straight. 
 
 The Gothic Arch (Fig. 14) is very much used 
 at the present day, both as shown in this figure. 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SETTING AKCHES. 27 
 
 and also with a greater or less rise above the 
 springing line, as Figs. 15 and 16. 
 
 The Elliptic Gothic (Fig. 17), which is simply 
 an ellipse with a Gothic head. 
 
 Fig. 16. Kg. 17. 
 
 Fig. 18 represents a Semi-ellipsey or half- oval. 
 
 There are many other arches in use in other 
 branches of the building trade ; such as the 
 horseshoe (Fig. 19), the 0 G (Fig. 20). But it 
 
 Fig. 18. Fig. 19. Fig. 20. 
 
 is very seldom the bricklayer has the building of 
 any but those that have been mentioned. 
 
 We have thus far only had the forms of different 
 arches. The next thing of importance to the 
 workman is the methods of striking them out, and 
 taking off the moulds and bevels for cutting them. 
 
 c2 
 
28 
 
 BHICKLAYING. 
 
 Drawing Arches. 
 
 As it is out of reason for the builder to pay 
 the workman for his time while he is practising 
 on the work, it will be found necessary that 
 he should learn the different ways of striking 
 out those things that he will require, either at 
 his home, or at some other equally convenient 
 place. And for this purpose he will require 
 a drawing-board. Sixteen inches square will be 
 large enough for this purpose ; but should a 
 larger one be required, it would be better to get 
 one 2 ft. 6 in. by 1 ft. 10 in. This will take an 
 imperial sheet of drawing-paper. Also, a T 
 square and setsquare, lead pencils, a pair of com- 
 passes with pen and pencil, and a piece of india 
 rubber to clean out any false lines. And as it is 
 always best in these kinds of drawings to work to 
 a scale, the 2-ft. rule will answer this purpose. 
 
 Should the reader wish to 
 
 p 
 
 practise drawing other forms 
 of the arch, he will require 
 more and better instruments. 
 It is necessary, in almost 
 
 3 every kind of arch, to draw 
 
 the horizontal and perpen- 
 dicular lines at right angles 
 with one another. If the 
 reader knows how to do this, 
 ^ he will find it his principal 
 
 guide to drawing the arch. 
 So^ from the points a and b. Fig. 21, ^»'ith any 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND 
 
 29 
 
 lev at(^i^ii24; 
 
 ^^^^eli^ of 
 
 radius greater than half the 
 scribe two arcs intersecting eacl^ 
 then the line joining o s will be^ 
 A B and at right angles Avith it. 
 "T square and drawing-board this is unnecessary, 
 as he is simply guided by the square when fixed 
 first to the side, and then to the bottom of the 
 board. 
 
 In showing the methods of drawing arches and 
 taking ofi" the moulds, it will not be necessary to 
 speak of plain arches, as the bricks are not cut for 
 them, therefore it will be best to deal with them 
 as gauged. 
 
 The Semi-circular (Fig. 22). — In drawing this 
 arch, it is only necessary to place one point of the 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 compass at the centre o, and with the radius d b 
 describe the half-circle which will answer for the 
 sofiit; then with the same centre describe a 
 greater half-circle, according to the depth of the 
 arch required. 
 
 Divide the outer ring with the compass into as 
 
30 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 many parts as there are required courses m the 
 arch, taking care to see how thick the bricks will 
 work first, so that no more is wasted in the 
 cutting than necessary. Then from the centre o 
 draw the lines to each of the divisions marked on 
 the outside half-circle as shown. This will be 
 the size and shape of the mould for cutting each 
 course of the face of the arch. And a parallel 
 mould, the width of the small end of the face 
 mould, will do for the cutting of the sofiit of the 
 brick, after allowing for the joint in each case 
 (this ought to be about one-tenth of an inch 
 thick), and is best done by working a little nearer 
 the small end of the mould, which will be easily 
 seen in the working. The bevel for cutting the 
 sofiit is taken by placing the stock of the bevel to 
 the line a, and setting the blade to the line repre- 
 senting the soffit of the first course of the arch 
 at D. 
 
 This is the only bevel required (if a T bevel is 
 used) as the tops are cut to this bevel fitted on 
 the brick the reverse way. 
 
 Fig. 23 is another kind of semicircular arch 
 with a Gothic head. To draw the outside portion 
 of this arch it is necessary to draw the line or 
 chord A B, bisect it at d, draw a line with the 
 setsquare from d, at right angles with a b, to any 
 point c, and upon this line the centre is taken to 
 describe the outside curve of the arch, according 
 to the haunch required ; and the inner ring must 
 be divided in the same manner as the outer ring 
 of Fig. 22; but the bevels for the tops must be 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SETTING AIICHES. 31 
 
 taken separately. In all other respects it is the 
 same as Fig. 22. 
 
 A 
 
 Tig. 23. 
 
 The Segment (Fig. 24) may be worked in the 
 
 D 
 
 Fiff. 24. 
 
 same way as the semicircle, the only difference 
 being in taking the centre to strike it with. 
 
32 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 / ' This is taken in the perpendicular line below 
 the springing level, with radius according to the 
 rise required as shown at and this is the point 
 to which all lines must be drawn, both to get the 
 skewback and also the size of the course. The 
 bevel for cutting the skewback is taken by placing 
 the stock parallel with the springing line A b, 
 and setting the blade of the bevel to the skewback 
 line D E. 
 
 We now come to the Camber Archj which is 
 perhaps one of the most difficult to draw and cut. 
 To draw this arch, supposing the opening to be 
 4 feet in the clear, would require an arch with 
 only half an inch rise above the springing line 
 at the crown, as it would take a very long radius 
 to strike an arch having so small a rise in the 
 ordinary way of striking a segment of a circle; 
 it is necessary, therefore, to resort to other means. 
 
 To do this it is best, in the first place, to get 
 the horizontal and perpendicular lines, and 
 measure out the width of the opening equal on 
 each side of the upright line, then take the rise 
 as shown at a. Fig. 25, and drive three nails into 
 the board upon which it is intended to strike the 
 arch, at the three separate points b, A, c ; this 
 done, get a piece of J-inch board, as long as the 
 opening is wide, in the form of a very flat 
 triangle, as shown in Fig. 26, taking care the 
 rise of the triangle is just the same as that 
 required for the arch.' Place the end b. Fig. 26, 
 to the nail at b, Fig. 25, a to a, and c to c, 
 keeping it tight against a C with the left hand ; 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SEJ 
 
 then with the right hand fix the pencil firr 
 against b, the end of the trammel, and gent? 
 draw the curve with the right hand, as the/ 
 trammel is drawn from a to c with the left, if 
 care is taken to keep the pencil hard against the 
 end B of the trammel, and a c of the trammel 
 
 £ 
 
 Tig. 25. 
 
 against the two nails as it is drawn from a to 
 c, it will describe very correctly that half of the 
 
 Fi-. 26. 
 
 camber from b to a. Then by repeating the 
 operation the reverse way, by drawing the 
 trammel with the left hand from a to b, while 
 with the right hand and pencil the half is 
 described from o to a, this will complete the 
 regular curve of the camber arch.^ Then with 
 c3 
 
34 
 
 BRICKLAYING, 
 
 G, as centre, and c as radius, cut the perpen- 
 dicular in D ; this is the point to which the lines 
 are drawn to get the proper skewback. 
 
 It is then necessary to measure the bricks to 
 see how they will work. If 3 inches, set oS 
 1| inches on each side of the centre line e d, 
 and draw lines to the point d, as shown : this will 
 giye the shape of the moulds of which there 
 ought to be three, a quarter of an inch thick, and 
 about 18 inches in length. If the arch is to be 
 1 foot in depth, and in proportion if more or less, 
 then mark them all at about 3 inches from the 
 narrow end. 
 
 Fix one of these upon the centre line, as 
 shown at A, so the line above mentioned shall be 
 exactly at the sofl&t-line of the arch, and then 
 trace the other two alternately towards the skew- 
 back, keeping each line on the moulds to the 
 soffit-curve each time. 
 
 If the last mould does not meet the skewback 
 exactly, it must be raised or dropped down until 
 it does; then mark each course, and the joint 
 must then be allowed as before stated. 
 
 The bevels must be taken for each course, and 
 marked on the mould ready for working; one 
 bevel will answer for soffit, cross-Joint, and top of 
 each course, if it is reversed for the two last named. 
 But perhaps it would be best to leave the tops 
 and cut them when setting the arch, for very 
 often mistakes are made in taking the length of 
 the courses with the template. The bond of the 
 camber arch is the same as the quoin of a 
 
DRAWINO, CUTTING, AND SETT! 
 
 arc 
 
 common wall of Flemisli bond, onlj 
 level and the quoin is upright, alway^sqjeeaem^^ 
 bering to work from the soffit, as shown bytETe 
 two courses at c, Fig. 25. 
 
 The Gothic Arch (Fig. 26) is much easier to 
 construct than the ca?7iber, owing to its having 
 a shorter radius. 
 
 Set out the extent of the arch at a b on the 
 horizontal line, then with a for centre, and the 
 distance a b for radius, describe the arc c b ; then 
 with AE as radius and with the same centre describe 
 
 Fig. 26a. 
 
 the inner arc d e — this forms one side of the arch ; 
 then with b as centre, and same radii used for the 
 first half, describe the second. 
 
 Divide the outer curve into courses according to 
 the size of the bricks, and draw the lines to the 
 point A as shown, taking care in dividing out the 
 courses that half a course shall be on each side of 
 the perpendicular line at c, to answer for key- 
 brick. The bevel once set will answer for the 
 
36 
 
 BKICKLAYING. 
 
 whole of this arch, the same as the semi-circular. 
 There are different ways of forming the key of 
 this arch, hut the one shown is considered the 
 best. Sometimes the Gothic arch is cut as repre- 
 sented in Fig. 27, but it is very seldom, on 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 \/'y / \ 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 account of the extra work in soffiting the bricks, 
 for in this case each course must be cut to a sepa- 
 rate bevel. But the lines for each course are 
 drawn to the centre o, instead of the opposite 
 springing, as Fig. 26. 
 
 A Reduced or Modified Gothic. — To draw this 
 arch it is necessary to draw the chords a b and b c. 
 Fig. 28, from the springing to the crown ; bisect 
 A B and B c at D and h ; and from these points of 
 bisection draw the lines to the points o o with the 
 setsquare. And upon these lines the points are 
 taken to strike the arch according to the rise 
 required above the chord. The outer i^rcs are 
 then divided into courses and lines drawn to the 
 points o for the size of the mould, if the arch is 
 to be cut in the same way as Fig. 26. But if it 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SETTING AKCHES. 37 
 
 :s to be "keyed in'' with an upright key, as 
 Fig. 27, the lines must be drawn to the centre e. 
 
 Fif?. 28. 
 
 The method of drawing and taking off the 
 moulds of the arch shown in Fig. 28, applies to 
 any Gothic, whether greater or less than the regular 
 equilateral arch. 
 
 The EUi2)se Gothic (Fig. 29) is rather more diffi- 
 cult in the working than the generality of Gothic 
 arches, owing to the diiferent striking points. To 
 draw this arch, let the distance a b be set off 
 equally on each side of the perpendicular line ; 
 then di^ade it into four equal parts by marking 
 the points c d, and with d as centre, and the 
 distance d b as radius, describe the arc from b to 
 E, mark the point b e equal with b d, draw the 
 chord F E, and bisect it at g, from which point 
 draw a line with the setsquare to any point o, and 
 upon this line the centre is taken to draw the 
 upper portion of that side of the arch as shown ; 
 
38 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 the soffit curves are obtained in the same way. 
 After the lines a f e b are drawn, they can be 
 made to answer either for soffit or extrados, by 
 striking the other parts greater or less than those 
 named ; in this figure they represent the outer 
 
 F 
 
 Fi^. 29. 
 
 ring; but the centres will do for either. The 
 moulds for this arch are taken in the same way as 
 those in the camber^ Fig. 25 ; that is, it must be 
 traced over with the moulds, so that each course 
 shall be exactly of one size, and the bevels must 
 be taken separately. 
 
 It is of the greatest importance that the work- 
 man should practise drawing this arch until he is 
 thoroughly acquainted with every part ; for very 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SETTING ARCHES. 39 
 
 often he may require quite a different kind of 
 ellipse Gothic to the one here described, and by 
 his understanding the principles of this one he 
 will be better able to reduce or elevate them to 
 suit his requirements. Perfect accuracy in all 
 good brickwork cannot be too much impressed 
 upon the mind of the bricklayer, and more par- 
 ticularly in drawing and cutting arches. 
 
 Fig, 30 represents a semi-ellipsis arch, and is a 
 great deal like the ellipse Gothic, the only dif- 
 
 ference being in the crowns. But the drawing 
 is quite different. In drawing this arch, divide 
 the span into three equal parts, as shown at a c d b, 
 then, with d as centre and d b for radius, describe 
 the arc from b to e equal to d b, and the same on 
 the opposite side to f ; then, with d for centre and 
 the distance d c for radius, describe an arc cutting 
 the perpendicular line in g ; and from this point, 
 with the distance g f, describe the arc F e : the 
 
40 
 
 BRICKLAYIXG. 
 
 outer curves are taken from the same centres, 
 only with a greater radius. 
 
 To get the moulds correctly this arch must be 
 traced over in the same way as the camber and 
 ellipse Gothic ; that is, take the thickness of the 
 brick and set it equally on each side of the centre 
 line at H, as shown ; then draw the lines to g ; 
 this will give the size of the mould very nearly ; 
 then, if they are worked alternately down to the 
 springing-line, it will easily be seen where they 
 want easing, should they require it. The bevels 
 are all taken separately for each course. 
 
 Another method of drawing this arch is shown 
 in Fig. 31. Take the distance a b, that is, the 
 
 Fig. 31. 
 
 span and also the depth of the arch, and set it off 
 equal on each side of the centre line ; divide 
 this into three equal parts by marking the points 
 0 and D ; then, with d as centre and d c for radius, 
 describe an arc cutting the upright line in e. From 
 this point draw a straight line through n to any 
 point F, and another through c to H ; then with d 
 as centre and d b for radius describe the arc f b, and 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SETTING AECHES. 41 
 
 take c for centre and same radius for the opposite 
 ellipse A H, and, lastly, e for centre and e h for 
 radius, to describe tlie crown h f. The soffit-ring 
 is drawn from the same points. It is thought by 
 some that the moulds can be taken by drawing 
 lines as shown from divisions on the outer curves ; 
 but it is evident the bricks in the arch cannot be 
 all of one size and shape if this is done, although 
 there is little doubt the arch is stronger that way, 
 owing to there being a better skewback at h and f 
 for the crown than there would be if each course 
 were cut to one mould ; it is unnecessary to say 
 this is the easiest method. But the appearance is 
 not so good, for it is an understood thing in the 
 trade that all courses of an arch should be of one 
 size. 
 
 c 
 
 D 
 
 Fig- 32. 
 
 The Wheel Arch, or BuWs-eyc (Fig. 32).— In 
 this arch the outer circle is divided out in such a 
 
42 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 manner that each line, a b, c d, shall be in the 
 centre of the course ; or, in other words, that 
 each of these points shall show a key brick, in 
 the same way as one key is shown in the semi- 
 circular arch. 
 
 Where two or more arches are set close to- 
 gether, saddles ought always to be cut, as 
 shown at a and b (Fig. 33), and not a continual 
 
 Fig. 33. 
 
 straight joint from c to d ; for although this is 
 often done, there is no bond between the two 
 arches. In all arch cutting the T bevel is by far 
 the best to use, for by reversing, it frequently 
 answers the purpose of two. 
 
 MoijLDIXG. 
 
 It has been already stated that moulding is 
 also included in what is called gauge-work. And 
 of late years there has been a very great deal 
 of this work done, particularly in and about 
 London. St. Pancras Station of the Midland 
 Railway may be taken as a fine specimen. 
 
 In many places this is done by simply making 
 a template the forai of the brick required, and 
 marking the brick, first on one side and then on 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND SETTING ARCHES. 43 
 
 the other, and so cutting or rubbing it down to 
 these marks. But for moulding birds' mouths, 
 splay, bulls' noses, and, in fact, almost any kind 
 of work, it will be found much better if a box is 
 made that will hold three or four bricks, either 
 flat or on edge, as they may be required, taking 
 care that the ends are both alike, and the exact 
 shape of the brick required. If this method be 
 properly worked it will be found very accurate, 
 and done with a great deal less labour. The 
 boxes for this purpose are usually covered with 
 tin or sheet-iron to protect the wood from wearing 
 away while working the bricks ; if not, the 
 moulds are very apt to get out of their proper 
 shape and so lead the workman wrong. Even 
 with this precaution, it is very necessary to try 
 them sometimes to see if they are correct. 
 
 When bricks are moulded for arches, it is best 
 to mould them first and cut them to the shape 
 required afteawards ; for should they be cut first 
 and then moulded the brick is often broken, and 
 all the labour upon it is wasted. 
 
 But it must be remembered that when the 
 bricks are moulded first the sofiit is not touched 
 afterwards, or otherwise the bead, or splay, or 
 whatever it is, will be rubbed out of shape. 
 Therefore the brick must be brought down to 
 the required bevel by rubbing down the side or 
 *'bed," so as to bring it thinner at the soffit end. 
 This is called soffiting the brick from the side; 
 and all bricks properly worked this way will go 
 together equally as well as if tliey were bevelled 
 
44 
 
 BRICKLAYING, 
 
 from the end, in the same way as arches that are 
 not moulded. 
 
 It has been said that where a great many 
 arches are required, all of one size, either plain or 
 moulded, it is best to send the moulds to the 
 brickyard and have them cut while the earth is 
 soft, and so burnt to the shape required. But if 
 this is tried it will prove a total failure, for it is 
 impossible to burn bricks with the accuracy re- 
 quired for gauge work ; and it is always found to 
 take almost as much labour in bringing them to 
 proper order as it would have done to cut the 
 bricks in the proper manner at first. 
 
 Let the bricklayer be careful to turn out his 
 work in such a way that it shall reflect credit 
 upon himself, and his employer will soon see 
 which is the best and cheapest method of cutting 
 gauge-work. 
 
 Setting. 
 
 It has already been said that cutting is considered 
 the most important branch of the trade, and to a 
 great extent this is right. But it must be re- 
 membered that, after the work is cut, there is 
 almost as much skill required in setting it. For 
 it very often happens that a vast amount of labour 
 and skill is expended upon work while in the 
 "cutter's^' hands, and directly it is taken on to the 
 building the beauty of it is all destroyed through 
 che carelessness or inability of the setter. On the 
 contrary, bad cut work is often made to look well 
 through nothing but the skill of the setter. 
 
DRAWING, CUTTING, AND ^fp?IN^Sp>f RCH^^v^ 
 
 Therefore it is very necessarj 
 should be equally well understds 
 gauge-work of all kinds, it is iiecesl5«iry^to^t^e 
 the thickness of the courses, and gauge the centre 
 upon which the arch is to be turned ; and this is 
 done by taking the thickness of the brick and 
 joint at the soffit. Each course should be marked 
 on the centre from the key brick downwards. 
 Never gauge from the springing or the skewback, 
 as this often leads to mistakes when setting the 
 arch. 
 
 The soffit of each course ought to fit the centre 
 perfectly ; and in order that it should do so and 
 that the courses should come in right at the key, 
 it is often necessary to have a radius line ; that 
 is, a nail should be driven into the ledge of the 
 centre at the point o (Fig. 23), for instance, and 
 a piece of string fastened to it, and drawn up to 
 each course of the arch as it is set, in the same 
 manner as the line o d is drawn. This will pre- 
 vent the setter getting his work too high or too 
 low at the extrados of the arch. If this is not 
 done he is working at random, and will very 
 likely have to make his bricks smaller, or, other- 
 wise, his bed-joint thicker when he gets to the 
 key ; thereby depriving the arch of its strength, 
 and so causing a settlement when the centres are 
 struck. Gauged arches, as a rule, are set in grey 
 lime putty, brought to the consistence of cream. 
 This is put into an oblong wooden box, about 
 2 ft. by 1 ft. 9 in. deep, for the setter to dip that 
 side of the brick where the bed-joint is r^auired. 
 
46 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 But in doing this care must be taken that the 
 bricks are neither too wet nor too dry ; also that 
 the putty is of such a thickness that it will give 
 the brick just such a joint as the work requires : 
 of course the brick should be held in the putty 
 until it takes up the joint. If each course is 
 bedded regularly throughout its thickness, the 
 joint will be full and even on the face of the 
 arch ; and should it project a little, which is 
 often the case, it ought to be left until the 
 building is cleaned down, then they can be rubbed 
 off level with the brides, and so leave the face of 
 the arch perfectly regular. This method only 
 applies to gauge-work. 
 
 Axed Woek 
 
 Is usually set in Portland cement ; and this 
 is sometimes mixed with a little putty to make 
 it work better; the brick is then buttered 
 with the trowel and not dipped as gauge-work. 
 By being buttered is meant a small portion of 
 the cement drawn on the edges of the brick, and 
 the middle left hollow to receive the cement 
 grout which is run in after the work is set ; 
 the joints are then raked out to receive the tuck 
 pointing, which is done after the building is up. 
 Whenever there is a long range of arches, one 
 ought not to be set separately ; but a line drawn 
 the whole length, so that when all are set, they 
 shall be perfectly straight one with another. 
 
Pointing of all kinds of work is another very 
 important branch which the bricklayer has to 
 deal with, and is more in practice at the present 
 day than ever before, both on account of its 
 cheapness and also its appearance. These may 
 be classed under two heads — Tuck-pointing and 
 flat-joint pointing. The first is of the most 
 importance, and also requires the most skill, not 
 only in the different methods of preparing and 
 using the material, but also in preparing the work. 
 
 Stock icork ivith the ichite joint is most general 
 in London ; and the first thing necessary is to 
 mix the pointing stufi-. It is often thought best 
 to colour the work, even if it is a new building, 
 to bring all the bricks to a uniform colour, 
 because some bricks are much darker than others, 
 and therefore have a bad appearance when 
 finished. This colour as a rule is made with 
 green copperas in the proportion of one pound 
 of copperas to five gallons of water ; but in all 
 . cases it should be tried first upon some bricks 
 placed in the same position as the front which is 
 to be coloured ; that is, if the front face the 
 south, place the bricks towards the same quarter, 
 as it is often found that work dried in the sun, 
 and that which is dried ia the shade, are quite 
 different 
 
48 
 
 imiCKLAYING. 
 
 Mix up as mucli colour as will complete the 
 whole job, as two mixings might not be alike. 
 The longer this copperas is kept the stronger it 
 gets ; therefore if it cannot all be used at once, 
 it is best to weaken it every morning by putting 
 half a pint of water to every gallon of colour ; if 
 this is not looked to, the last part which is done 
 v/ill be much darker than the first. If the work 
 is wetted before the colour is laid on, one gallon 
 of colour will do 100 feet, more or less, according 
 to the bricks and the season of the year. 
 
 YeJIoiv Stojyjnng. — This is made with grey lime, 
 putty, and fine washed sand, in the proportion of 
 one bushel of the former to three of the latter, 
 and will take about 2 lbs. of yellow ochre to each 
 hodful of stopping. But of course the workman 
 will regulate it to suit the colour of the brick. 
 This also must be tried in the same way as the 
 copperas, and in all cases let the stopping be a 
 shade darker than the brick when it is dry. 
 This will give the putty joint a better appear- 
 ance when it is laid on. In no case should 
 copperas be used to colour the stopping. 
 
 White Putty. — This is generally made with 
 chalk lime (because it dries much whiter than 
 grey lime, and gives the work a better appear- 
 ance), and silversand, or marble dust ; the latter 
 should be used whenever it can be obtained, on 
 account of its giving the joint a beautiful glaze. 
 It is usual to heat the pieces of marble until 
 they fall to a powder, then screen it through 
 a very fine screen or sieve before mixing it 
 
Vv. 
 
 DIFFERENT KINDS OF TO^INGC\ ^49 
 
 with tlie lime. But silver sand is mor^ generally 
 used. 
 
 The lime is slaked and sifted through a fine 
 sieve. Sometimes oil or size is mixed with it to 
 make it work better, and also to give it greater 
 binding properties ; but this must be done while 
 the lime is hot and dry, and one pint of either to 
 half a bushel of lime is enough. 
 
 If chalk lime is used, one peck of silver sand 
 is sufficient for half a bushel of lime ; but if grey 
 lime is used, it will take double that quantity of 
 sand. If work is to be pointed, it must be well 
 cleaned down from top to bottom, and well rubbed 
 with pieces of the same brick as the wall is built 
 with ; this will give the work a level surface. 
 Brush off all dust, and wet it well, then follow 
 with the colour and give it one coat throughout ; 
 if it should require two coats, let one get well set 
 before the second is laid on ; but if it only 
 requires one coat, the work is ready for the 
 stopping. It is usual to do this in lengths of 
 about 8 feet; this is about the length that two 
 men will work when laying on the fine stuff; 
 and if this is taken for the length and 5 feet for 
 the height, it will be quite enough at one time. 
 
 We sometimes see houses stopped in from top 
 to bottom before ever a putty joint is laid on ; 
 but the man who does this evidently knows but 
 very little about tuck-pointing, for, whenever 
 this is done, the stopping gets so dry and hard 
 that the putty will not combine with it as it 
 ought, and it will fall off in a very short time. 
 
50 
 
 BRICKLAYING, 
 
 The work is also so besmeared with the white 
 stuflf, that it has more the appearance of being 
 plastered than tuck-pointed. 
 
 When the length, as before stated, is stopped 
 in, it is usual to rub it well with a piece of dry- 
 sacking, or something of that kind, to give the 
 stopping and bricks the appearance of being one 
 uniform block. Brush off all dust, and, if neces- 
 sary, damp it with the stock-brush carefully, so 
 as not to disturb the stopping; then gauge the 
 joints at each end of the rule ^s a guide for 
 holding it, so that each course is of the same 
 thickness, and each joint perfectly level through- 
 out. This gauging must be applied to all work, 
 whether yellow, white, or red, and it would be 
 best to have a gauge-rod expressly for this pur- 
 pose. The cross-joints should be perfectly plumb 
 from top to bottom of the building. The rule 
 that is used to lay on the bed-joints (if it is done 
 with the jointers) is about 8 feet long, 5 inches 
 wide, and about J inch thick ; and there ought to 
 be two or three pieces of cork a quarter of an inch 
 thick nailed on to the back, to keep the rule 
 from the work, so as to allow room for the waste 
 putty that is cut from the joint to fall clear to the 
 ground. The fine stuff is spread upon this rule, 
 and afterwards taken off it with the jointer and 
 laid on the work that is stopped in, according to 
 the rule when it is held to the gauge-marks. 
 After this the rough edges are cut off with a 
 knife, or Frenchman/' as it is called. This is 
 the process for yellow or stock- work pointing. 
 
DIFFERENT KINDS OF POINTING. 5] 
 
 Red bricJcivorJc is treated in many respects quite 
 differently. The colour used for this is composed 
 of 1 lb. of Venetian red, and 1 lb. of Spanish 
 brown to 1 J gallons of water ; but it ought to be 
 tried in the same way as copperas. This colour 
 has no setting properties, therefore it is necessary 
 to mix something with it that has, or else the 
 first shower of rain will surely wash it off. 
 
 One of the best things to use for this purpose 
 is white copperas. This must be dissolved in 
 warm water, and 1 lb. will set about 3 gallons of 
 colour. Alum is also used in the same propor- 
 tions ; and sometimes half a gallon of stale beer 
 to the same quantity of colour for setting. 
 
 Bed Stoppmg is composed of 1 part of grey lime 
 to 3 parts of fine washed sand (red sand would be 
 better, as it would take less colouring). This is 
 coloured with Venetian red and a small portion 
 of vegetable black. But in this case no propor- 
 tions can be given as there are so many different 
 kinds of red brick, and the colour that would 
 suit one would look very badly if applied to an- 
 other ; therefore it is best for the workman to 
 try these colours, and match them with the bricks 
 before he begins to point the real work, and in 
 all cases mix enough for the whole of the point- 
 ing, allowing three hods of stopping to 200 feet 
 of work. 
 
 This class of work is done in the same way as 
 stock-work, the only difterence being in the using 
 the colour. Red work is coloured throughout 
 first,, and then a second coat is laid on after it has 
 V2 
 
62 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 been stopped; this is done very lightly, so as not 
 to rub up the stopping. 
 
 But in stock- work, colouring over the stopping 
 should never be done, for the copperas being so 
 strong it will bring out a white hue, and make 
 the stopping almost as white as the putty joint, 
 giving the whole of the work a very bad appear- 
 ance. The putty for red work is just the same as 
 that used for stock- work. 
 
 White Brichcork. — When the bricks used for 
 this work are sand«made, they only require well 
 rubbing down before pointing ; but should there 
 be any flesh-coloured ones among them, it is best 
 to leave the dust on the face after rubbing it, and 
 give the whole a coat of alum-water ; this will 
 set the dust so securely on the face of the bricks, 
 that no quantity of water will wash it ofi*, and 
 will give the whole front a regular appearance. 
 This is made with 1 lb. of alum dissolved in 3 
 gallons of hot water ; and if it can be laid on the 
 work when warm, so much the better. 
 
 The stopping for this kind of work seldom 
 wants any colouring, the sand making it sufli- 
 ciently dark to match the bricks. 
 
 There are three sorts of putty used for this 
 work ; white, black, and sometimes red. 
 
 The method of mixing the first has already 
 been explained, therefore it is unnecessary to 
 repeat it. 
 
 Black Putty requires J bushel of grey lime, 
 slaked and finely sifted ; 1 J bushels of very fine 
 washed, or silver sand and 12 lbs. of lamp-black 
 
DIFFERENT KINDS OF 
 
 \^ 
 
 or vegetable black : the last named is nhyjt easiej 
 to mix with, the lime and sand. Care musTlbe 
 taken that these are well worked into one another, 
 if not, the joint will have a bad appearance when 
 laid on the work. 
 
 Heel Putty. — This is made in the same way as 
 the black, only the colouring is diflferent, this 
 being done with Spanish brown. But, as in red 
 stopping, the colour must be mixed to the shade 
 required. 
 
 It is not always necessary to colour brickwork ; 
 and if the bricks are all of one colour, such as 
 Suffolk whites, best reds, or malms, it is much 
 better not to do so. 
 
 But if, on the contrary, the bricks are inferior, 
 they cannot be brought to a uniform colour 
 without it. 
 
 . The putty-joint in all tuck-pointing ought not 
 to exceed a quarter of an inch in thickness. 
 Arches of all kinds, except those that are gauged, 
 are pointed in the same way as plain brickwork, 
 but the joint ought to be smaller. 
 
 Old Briclacork. — When this is repointed all the 
 old mortar must be raked out of the joints. The 
 whole front is then well rubbed with pieces of 
 brick to clean off the grease and dirt, and well 
 swept down with a hard broom perfectly clean, so 
 that the colour may enter the face of the brick, 
 and after this, it is given two coats of red colour 
 or green copperas as the case may be, taking care 
 tliat the first coat is dry before the second is laid 
 on, also that both are dry before it is stopped in. 
 
54 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 The stopping in old work is generally smoothed 
 down level with the face of the bricks with the 
 trowel, and not rubbed in the way that new work 
 usually is ; for very often it is stopped with brown 
 or black stopping, if it is stockwork, and, of course, 
 it would never do to rub it. 
 
 FlaUjoint Pointing. — This is of three kinds. The 
 first is laid on with the trowel and cut off at the 
 top only with the Frenchman, to give the joint 
 the appearance of having been struck when the 
 bricks were laid. The second kind is cut off top 
 and bottom, and is sometimes called half-tuck." 
 And the third is simply done by filling up each 
 joint flush with the brick ; then rub it over with 
 a stock-brush or a piece of sacking, and next run 
 a line in the centre with a jointer or anything 
 that will mark it. Inside work which is to be 
 whitewashed or coloured is the only work which 
 is done with this kind of pointing. "Washed sand 
 and lime made into a stiff mortar is the only 
 pointing material required for flat-joint pointing, 
 but the darker the sand the better, and in this 
 case, as in all kinds of pointing, the work should 
 be kept well damped, for upon this depends the 
 soundness of the pointing. 
 
PAVING, TILING, USE OF MATERIALS, 
 
 SECTION IV. 
 
 PAYING, TILING, USE OF IMATERIALS, Etc. 
 
 Paying. 
 
 Brich-paving. — This kind of flooring is less used 
 in London than it is in the country, as it is often 
 the practice to lay the floors of dwelling-houses 
 in many parts with this material ; but this is 
 seldom done in the metropolis, unless it is the 
 cellar floors, and these are usually done with the 
 stockbricks ; good paviours and Dutch clinkers 
 being used only for stables, coach-houses, &c. 
 These are laid in various ways, such as brick-flat, 
 brick-on-edge, and sometimes it is herringboned. 
 
 Plain Paving is that which is laid in parallel 
 courses. This needs no explanation further than 
 
 c 
 
 
 
 
 0 — 
 
 
 
 
 £_ 
 
 
 
 F 
 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 A 
 
 Fig. 34. 
 
 that which will be given in connection with the 
 other kinds. But herringbone paving, Fig. 34, 
 will be found much more difficult, both in setting 
 out and also after it is set out, in the working. 
 
56 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 The first thing that must be done is to get the 
 floor-line, at any point such as a, and, if necessary, 
 drive a stake into the ground as a starting-point 
 to take the levels from. From this point level to 
 each corner of the room, taking care to reverse the 
 level every length, for very often the level is not 
 correct, and the work is thereby thrown out. But 
 if this is done it cannot happen. After the levels 
 are taken, the ground must be dug out deep 
 enough to receive the brick and its bed below the 
 level line; if this is brick-flat, 3 inches will be 
 enough, but if on edge, it will take 5 inches ; then 
 with a pair of lines lay a temporary course of 
 brick, as shown from d to c and from a to b, and 
 the line is drawn to these courses to keep the work 
 level on the surface and also to show if the points 
 of the herringbone are correct, as shown by the 
 line E r. No bricks ought to be cut against the 
 straight temporary courses, but leave them as a 
 toothing to be filled up afterwards. All diagonal 
 joints should cut in a line, in the same way as 
 those explained in Figs. 7 and 8, and those figures 
 will serve for a guide for brick-on-edcfe paving, 
 Fig. 34 representing hrick-flat only. But the 
 straight temporary courses are laid for all sorts of 
 brick paving. 
 
 Tile-paving is very much in practice, both plain 
 and ornamental, notwithstanding the great quan- 
 tities of asphalte Portland cement and York 
 paving used. These tiles vary in thickness from 
 two inches to three-eighths of an inch. Plain 
 tiling is generally done with tiles, 12, 9, and 
 
PAVING, TILING, USE OF MATERIALS, ETC. 57 
 
 6 inches square ; and these are laid in parallel 
 courses with one side of the room, yard, or surface 
 that requires paving. Should the tiles be of dif- 
 ferent colours, it is usual to lay them diagonally, 
 so that the different colours form diamonds. The 
 methods of executing this kind of paving are 
 much the same as the others. But for very 
 thin or ornamental tiling the whole surface is 
 screeded perfectly level with Portland cement 
 mixed with sand ; and when sufficiently hard, the 
 tiles are laid with a thin bed of pure cement, 
 according to a design ; by frequently aj^plying the 
 straight-edge, the work will be brought to a 
 uniform surface. 
 
 Tiling. 
 
 Roofing-tiles. — These are of two kinds, 2olain 
 tiles, which are quite flat, with two holes near the 
 head of the tile, through which oak pins are 
 placed, and by this means the tiles are laid or 
 hung to the laths of the roof; and pantiles^ which 
 are much larger. These are hollow, or curve- 
 shaped, and are hung on the laths with a project- 
 ing ear, which is called the nob of the tile ; and 
 each course overlaps the previous one with a roll. 
 This tiling is done much better in the country 
 than in London, owing, in a great measure, to 
 the tiles being made with greater care, and better 
 shaped. If this work is properly gauged, the 
 courses ought to fit perfectly close one to the 
 other, so as to prevent the wind getting under 
 them and lifting them off. 
 
 d3 
 
58 
 
 BRICKLAYI>'G. 
 
 In preparing tlie roof for tiling, it is necessary 
 to lath it with, inch laths. These are called j^f^n- 
 tile laths. To do this, each outside rafter (that is, 
 the rafter that is nearest to each gable) should be 
 gauged out according to the gauge of the tiles. 
 This is done from the eaves to the ridge, taking 
 care to allow for the eaves projecting over the wall- 
 plates, so as to carry off the water. This is easily 
 ascertained by fitting a tile on to the eaves before 
 gauging the roof.. Xails are then teraporarily 
 driven into the rafter at each length of the gauge, 
 and to these nails a line is drawn, as a guide line 
 for lathing the roof. 
 
 ^Yhere these tiles are used for dwelling houses, 
 each space between the pantile laths is covered 
 with small laths, and these are covered with a 
 bed of mortal:, to answer for a bed for the tile, 
 and also to keep out the wind ; but in common 
 tiling this is not done, as pointing the tiles inside 
 answers much the same purpose. The roof ought 
 to be gauged out lengthways also, the width 
 of each course, so as to finish exactly even courses 
 at the gable. For not unfrequently we see roofs 
 covered at random, and finished with a broken or 
 cut course against the gable, and this will 
 generally be found to be the first place where the 
 water penetrates through, thereby causing a great 
 deal of injury to the roof, ceilings, &c. 
 
 Plain Tiling is worked much in the same way; 
 but of course the gauge is less. They are some- 
 times hung with two little nobs instead of pins. 
 In plain tiling', the roof needs only to be gauged 
 
PAVING, TILING, USE OF MATERIAtS, ETp;) 
 
 from the eaves to the ridge; the guide Ipjxg 
 ways is simply to keep the second cours- 
 bond on the first, and so on throughout the roof. 
 The setting of ridge-tiles needs no explanation, 
 as it is only necessary to keep them level and 
 straight along the ridge- tree ; the different gauges 
 will be given further on. 
 
 It is the practice in buildings of any import- 
 ance to construct fireproof floors, and this is 
 
 Fig. 86. 
 
 sometimes done by turning brick arches upon 
 wrought iron girders as shown in Fig. 35. But 
 of late years it has been found that plain tiles 
 will answer this purpose equally as well as bricks, 
 without the disadvantage of being so heavy. Not 
 only that, but the depth of the girder can be 
 greatly reduced, for often where a 6-inch girder 
 would be required for brick arches, those 3 inches 
 in depth would do for tiles, so saving the 3 inches 
 in the thickness of the flooring. And not only 
 fireproof floors, but many flat roofs have been 
 covered with two or three courses of tiles, either 
 
 Fig. 36. 
 
 laid flat upon the girders, as shown in Fig. 36, 
 or arched as Fig. 35 ; but by all means let them 
 break joint. The tiles should be well wetted, 
 and the finer the sand used with the cement for 
 
60 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 bedding them the better. This construction of 
 floors, &c., although appearing yery slight, will 
 carry an immense weight, if the cement used is of 
 good quality. 
 
 SCAFFOLDIXG. 
 
 One of the principal things necessary to the 
 carrying out of a building is the scaffolding, 
 and great care ought to be taken in selecting 
 the men that are to do it, for upon their 
 care and foresight often depends the lives of the 
 other men engaged on the work. Scaffold- 
 ing in general use lor brickwork consists of 
 standards, ledgers, putlogs, and boards. The 
 standards and ledgers are of fir, and of yarious 
 lengths up to 60 feet, and are about 7 inches 
 diameter at the butt end. Foreign poles are 
 much better adapted for scaffolding than English, 
 on account of their freedom from knots, and 
 their being thinner according to the length. 
 Putlogs are usually made of birch 4 inches square 
 by 6 feet in length. Cords and wedges are used 
 to fasten the standards, ledgers, and putlogs in 
 their proper places. Standards are placed up- 
 right about 5 feet from the wall and 10 feet 
 apart throughout the length of the building. 
 
 The ledgers are tied up horizontally to the 
 standards to support the putlogs ; these are 
 placed crossways with one end resting on the 
 ledger, and the other in the wall, and upon these 
 putlogs the boards are laid to complete the 
 scaffold ; the latter are of different lengths up to 
 
I»AVTNG, TILING, USE OF MATERIALS, ETC. 61 
 
 14 or ] 6 feet ; in no case should scaffolding be 
 used if it is rotten, or likely to break ; it some- 
 times happens that the butts are decayed a little 
 and the other parts of the pole perfectly sound ; 
 in this case it is best to cut off the bad part. 
 The standards should be let into the ground about 
 two feet, and the earth firmly rammed round 
 them, to keep them upright ; and where the soil 
 is soft, pieces of brick or stones should first be 
 rammed in the bottom of the hole, to keep the 
 pole from settling down when the scaffold is 
 loaded ; for should the poles sink the putlogs will 
 act as levers and overturn the wall. 
 
 When one length of poles is not suflScient, two 
 are lashed together, top and butt, and diagonal 
 braces are then fixed, to prevent the scaffold from 
 moving in any w^ay. 
 
 Relieving Arches. 
 
 All openings in walls for doorways, windows, 
 &c., where wood lintels are used as attachments 
 for internal fittings, should be arched over with 
 relieving arches throughout the whole thickness 
 of the wall. And the springing of such arches 
 ought always to be beyond the end of the lintel. 
 If beams of any kind or joists are to be built into 
 the w^alls, it is best to leave recesses for the timber, 
 so that the brickwork is not built upon it, as it is 
 liable to lead to settlements, and frequently the 
 cause of the fronts of houses being bulged out just 
 where the joist runs into the inside of the wall. 
 
 When iron girders enter brick walls to support 
 
62 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 fireproof floors, iron bressummers (to support the 
 other \\ork over shop fronts, &c.), York stone 
 templates are bedded in the wall for the ends of 
 the girders to rest upon, so as to distribute the 
 weight over as large a bearing-area as possible. 
 
 Bakers^ Ovexs. 
 
 To construct a baker's oven to heat with coals : 
 the size of the base having been arranged, it should 
 be carried up to the height of the furnace door, 
 and the ashpit left according to the width of the 
 door and the length of the furnace-bars, allowing 
 for the door being set 4J inches from the face of 
 the brickwork. Let the frame and door be about 
 a foot square, like the furnace-door of a copper, and 
 the bars about 20 inches long, and level with the 
 bottom of the oven and of the door. Let the flue 
 be about 16 inches square, for the fire to shoot into 
 the oven from the shoulder where the furnace is 
 straight across to the opposite angle of the oven, 
 and by the fire catching the crown in its course 
 it will spread all round. Let a register be fixed 
 in the flue, and the copper five or six inches above 
 the furnace, not so as to get too hot, for it is 
 usuallv icarm water onlv that is required in a 
 bakehouse. A register should be fixed within a 
 little of where the flue enters the oven, and rise 
 slanting ; which, being stopped when the oven is 
 hot enough, leads into the chimney flue. The 
 general rise of the crown above the floor is from 
 18 to 20 inches. Sometimes the oven is con- 
 structed without the copper. And perhaps it is 
 
PAVING, TILING, USE OF MATERIALS, ETC. 63 
 
 the best plan ; for it is certain the two will act 
 better apart than they do together ; but of course 
 the latter is a little the cheapest as regards fuel. 
 
 But in building ovens, as well as many other 
 things, the work is done according to the situa- 
 tion and the owner's convenience. At all events, 
 the side walls, from which the crown of the oven 
 springs, ought not to be less than 2 J bricks thick, 
 and the crown springing from about 9 inches 
 above the floor. The angles should all intersect, 
 and all be laid with as close joint as possible. 
 
 When the oven is domed,'' spread some sand 
 on the top, so that when the work gets dry the 
 sand may fill up any cracks. 
 
 Smoky Chimneys. 
 
 The causes of these are so various, that it is 
 impossible to lay down any general rule as a cure. 
 But perhaps the following remarks may be found 
 useful : — 
 
 The evil is generally in the construction. The 
 flues are often too large or too small, or 
 otherwise the chimney-shaft is not carried up 
 high enough to prevent the wind from blowing 
 over the roofs adjoining, and so the smoke is 
 prevented from rising. And again, it is not 
 unfrequently we see pots placed upon the chimneys 
 of a house all of a uniform size and shape. It 
 matters not whether the flue leads from a draw- 
 ing-room fire or a kitchen, while perhaps the 
 latter produces nearly double the smoke of the 
 former ; the result is, the kitchen chimney 
 
64 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 smokes, owing to the flue being cramped up at 
 the top. Another cause of kitchen chimneys 
 smoking, is when other flues are connected with 
 them ; for instance, when cooking apparatus is 
 fixed in a kitchen, it is thought well to connect the 
 flue with the flue from the kitchen-range ; and this 
 is usually done about 2 or 3 feet above the fire- 
 place. This may answer very well if the two are 
 always in use at the same time. But, should the 
 kitchen fire alone be required, it is very likely 
 the cold air from the flue of the apparatus will 
 enter straight into the kitchen-flue, just at the 
 entrance of the shaft, and prevent the smoke from 
 rising. 
 
 The author has proved the whole of these evils, 
 and therefore knows them to exist. 
 
 No chimney-flue of a dwelling-house ought to 
 be less than 9 inches by 14 ; and the kitchen flue 
 ought to be 14 inches square throughout the 
 entire length of the chimney. 
 
 The shaft ought to be carried up above the 
 highest part of the roof ; and if chimney-pots 
 are used, they ought to be all of one height, and 
 the area of the end of the pot equal the top of the 
 flue. In building the flues, turn them first one 
 way and then the other, so as to prevent the rain 
 from falling down the chimney, and also to give 
 it a sharper draught. But care must be taken 
 that the flues have the same room for the smoke. 
 
PAVING; TILING; USE OF MATERIALS, ETC. G5^ 
 
 To give the proper light, neither too much nor 
 too little, multiply the length of the room by the 
 breadth, and that product by the height, and out 
 of this extract the square root, which root will be 
 the space to give the proper light for the room, 
 and may be divided into as many windows as the 
 room will allow. 
 
 Suppose the room to be 22 feet long by 18 feet 
 wide, the product will be 396, and multiplied by 
 the height, 11 feet, the product will be 4,356, 
 whose square root is 66, which will be the area 
 of light space of the room, and may be divided 
 into 3 windows of 22 feet each. This is thought 
 to be the best rule for the purpose. 
 
 A rod of brickwork laid 4 courses to 11| 
 inches requires 4,530 stock bricks. 
 
 A rod of brickwork laid 4 courses to the foot, 
 4,350 bricks. 
 
 N.B. — 420 stocks weigh about 1 ton, and 460 
 go to a cubic yard. The usual allowance of brick 
 to a rod of brickwork is 4,500, allowing for 
 waste ; and the usual allowance for lime for a rod 
 is 1 hundred and a half, or 37 bushels, if good, 
 and sand 2J loads. 
 
 But, of course, this is beyond what it really 
 takes for ordinary buildings ; but some require a 
 great deal more cutting, and so a greater quantity 
 
 To Proportion Windows to Rooms. 
 
 Materials, their Use, etc. 
 
66 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 of bricks are spoiled. For dwelling-houses, &c., 
 4,300 to a rod is sufficient. 
 
 If laid dry, 5,370 bricks to the rod. 
 
 And in wells and circular cesspools, 4,900. 
 
 Should there be any odd feet in the calculations 
 for buildings in general, it is usual to reckon. 16 
 bricks to the foot standard thickness. 
 
 A rod of brickwork, laid 4 courses to the foot, 
 contains 235 cubic feet of bricks and 71 cubic feet 
 of mortar, and weighs about 14J tons ; but, of 
 course, this depends upon, the bricks, whether 
 they are wet or dry. 
 
 A rod of brickwork measures 16| feet square, 
 IJ bricks thick (which is called the reduced or 
 standard thickness), or 272 feet 3 inches super- 
 ficial; or 306 cubic feet, or 11^ cubic yards. 
 These are the measurements in general use. But 
 sometimes 18 feet are allowed to the rod, that is, 
 324 square feet ; and also the rod of 21 feet long 
 and 3 feet high, that is 63 square feet. In this 
 case no regard is paid to the thickness of the wall 
 in measuring. But the price is regulated accord- 
 ing to the thickness. 
 
 Nevertheless, all calculations in this little work 
 will be to the rod of 272 feet 3 inches. 
 
 A rod of brickwork requires IJ cubic yards of 
 chalk lime and 3 single loads of sand, or one 
 cubic yard of grey lime and 3| loads of sand, or 
 24 bushels of Portland cement and 48 bushels of 
 sharp sand. 
 
 A cubic yard of mortar requires 7 bushels of 
 grey lime and 23 bushels of sand. 
 
PAVING, TILING, USE OF MATERIALS, ETC. 67 
 
 Lime and sand and also cement and sand lose 
 one- third of their bulk when made up into 
 mortar ; therefore the proportion of mortar or 
 cement when made up is to the lime and sand 
 or cement and sand, as when dry, 2 to 3. 
 
 Lime or cement and sand to make mortar require 
 as much water as equals one-third of their bulk. 
 
 A standard yard of brickwork laid 4 courses to 
 the foot, requires f bushel of cement and 
 bushel of sand and 150 bricks. 
 
 One barrel of cement, containing 6 bushels, 
 cask included, weighs about 3J hundreds. 
 
 A yard of 9-inch wall requires i bushel 
 of cement, 1 bushel of sand, and 100 stock 
 bricks. 
 
 4|-inch facing requires 7 bricks per superficial 
 foot. 
 
 4|-inch gauged-work requires 10 bricks per 
 superficial foot. 
 
 Brick noggin g per yard superficial requires 
 30 bricks on edge, or 47 laid flat. 
 
 30 hods of mortar equal one load. 
 
 A measure of lime is 27 cubic feet, and contains 
 21 striked bushels. 
 
 27 cubic feet, or one cubic yard, is called 
 a single load ; and two cubic yards a double 
 load. 
 
 A hundred of lime is 25 bushels. 
 
 The weight of a bushel of well-burnt chalk 
 lime is from 36 to 38 lbs. ; and grey stone lime 
 from 46 to 59 lbs. 
 
 Paving with bricks or tiles requires 1 yard of 
 
68 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 sand to every 12 yards, or if laid and grouted in 
 with mortar, 1^ bushels of lime and 4 bushels of 
 sand to 12 yards. 
 
 Stock brick, flat paving, 
 
 ,, on edge 
 Paving bricks, laid flat 
 on edge 
 
 Dutch, clinkers, laid flat 
 „ on edge 
 
 12-inch paving tiles 
 10-inch „ 
 6-inch „ 
 
 Tiling. 
 Description. 
 "With pantiles . 
 
 With plain tiles 
 
 requires 36 per yard super. 
 52 
 36 
 82 
 70 
 
 140 
 9 
 
 AO 
 
 36 
 
 Gang-e in 
 
 Number required 
 
 inches. 
 
 ^ per square. 
 
 . 12 . 
 
 . . 150 
 
 . 11 . 
 
 . . 160 
 
 . 10 . 
 
 . . 180 
 
 4 . 
 
 . . 600 
 
 . H . 
 
 . . 700 
 
 . 3 . 
 
 . . 800 
 
 N.B. — These figures are quite near enough as regards quan- 
 tities ; but as a rule the tiles are tried before the roof is lathed, 
 to find the correct gauge, as they are of various shapes and sizes. 
 
 A square of pan tiling requires 2 bundles of 5 ft. 
 laths, and 1,000 of sixpenny nails, if small lathed. 
 
 A square of plain tiling requires about 1 bundle 
 of oak laths, 5 score to the bundle, 5 feet long — if 
 4 feet long there is 6 score, and if 3 feet long, 
 8 score, to the bundle; 450 nails ; 3 hods of mortar, 
 or lime and hair ; and, if the tiles are hung with 
 pins, between half a peck and a peck will be 
 required ; oak pins are those usually used. 
 
 All pantiling is executed by working from the 
 eaves to the ridge each course, and from the 
 right-hand end of the roof to the left. But plain 
 tiles are hung in horizontal courses the whole 
 length of the roof from right to left. 
 
 Flat plain tiling for floors, flat roofs, &c.; if 
 
PAVING, TILING, USE OF MATERIALS, ETC. 69 
 
 two courses thick, 420 tiles, 3 bushels of Portland 
 cement, and 6 bushels of sharp washed sand for a 
 square superficial; and 210 tiles, 1| bushels of 
 cement, and 3 bushels of sand for every extra 
 course. 
 
 A measure, yard, or load, of lime, sand, or earth 
 is 27 cubic feet or 21 striked bushels. 
 
 A chaldron is 41 cubic feet, and contains 
 32 bushels. 
 
 A labourer's hod measures 1 foot 4 inches by 
 9 inches by 9, and will hold 14 bricks, or three- 
 quarters of a cubic foot of mortar or cement. 
 
 The following is a table of sizes and weights of 
 various articles used by the bricklayer : — 
 
 Description. 
 
 Len 
 
 ^th. 
 
 Breadth. 
 
 Thick- 
 ness. 
 
 Weight. 
 
 
 ft. 
 
 in. 
 
 ft. 
 
 in. 
 
 ft. 
 
 in. 
 
 lbs. ozs. 
 
 Stock bricks, each . . 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 5 4 
 
 Paving „ „ . . 
 Dutch clinkers, each . 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 If 
 
 4 0 
 
 0 
 
 ^1 
 
 0 
 
 3"' 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 H 
 
 1 8 
 
 12-in. paving tiles, each 
 
 0 
 
 llf 
 
 0 
 
 111 
 
 0 
 
 13 0 
 
 10-in. „ „ 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 
 9 0 
 
 9-in. „ ., 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 1} 
 
 7 5 
 
 Pantiles, each . . . 
 
 1 
 
 2h 
 
 0 
 
 9.^ 
 
 0 
 
 
 5 4 
 
 Plain tiles, each . . . 
 
 0 
 
 11" 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 2 5 
 
 Pantile laths per 10 ft. ) 
 
 120 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 4 6 
 
 Ditto per 12 ft. bundle 
 
 U-i 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 5 0 
 
 (N.B. — A bundle con- 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 tains 12 laths.) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Plain tile laths per ) 
 
 500 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 Oi 
 
 0 12 
 
 (30 bundles 1 load.) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A square of pantiling requires 1 bundle of 
 pantile laths 12 feet long, and 144 2-inch nails. 
 
70 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 SECTION V. 
 
 SLATER AND PLASTEEER'S WORK. 
 
 In many parts of the country the slater's business, 
 &c., is done by the bricklayer. And where such is 
 the case, all materials for shelves, cisterns, baths, 
 lavatories, &c., are worked by the stone mason ; 
 for, as a rule, there is not sufficient work in small 
 towns to keep a slater exclusively for that busi- 
 ness, and in many country towns and villages 
 slates are not used for anything but the covering 
 of roofs. As a general rule, all men in the build- 
 ing trade understand what tools the slater uses, 
 and also what they are used for ; therefore it is 
 quite unnecessary to describe them. 
 
 It is best in all cases, if possible, that the quan- 
 tity of slates required for the roof should be 
 brought to the building before the slater begins 
 to work ; then ho will see the whole of them, and 
 sort them out accordingly : this is done by divid- 
 ing the slates into three thicknesses, — these are 
 thicks, middlings, and thins ; this is done so that 
 the thickest slates should be at the bottom, the 
 middling ones next, and the thinnest nearest the 
 ridge ; it is also essential to the soundness as well 
 as the appearance of slating. After this they are 
 all dressed to one size, and the edges trimmed 
 perfectly straight, gauged, and the holes made. 
 
 The upper surface of a slate is called its back ; 
 the under surface the bed; the top edge the head; 
 
SLATER AND PLASTEREr's WORK. 
 
 71 
 
 and tlie bottom the tail; tliat part of tlie slate 
 which is exposed to view when hung, the mar- 
 gin of the course ; and the width of the margin 
 is the gauge ; the lap is that distance by 
 which the tail of the third course overlaps the 
 head of the first, as shown in Fig. 37. In some 
 
 Fig. 37. 
 
 cases the slate is fastened with the nails driven as 
 near the head as possible ; but it will be found 
 much better, both for the soundness and also 
 appearance, if the nails for the second course are 
 driven in just above the head of the first, because 
 if the slate is fastened with the nails near the 
 middle, it is evident the wind cannot have the 
 leverage that it would if it were fastened at the 
 head. The gauge of all kinds of slates used for 
 covering roof will be equal to half the distance 
 from the tail to the head, less the lap. For 
 instance, suppose the lap to be 2 inches, and a 
 countess slate 20 inches from tail to head, first 
 deduct 2 inches, the lap, from 20 inches, the length, 
 of the slate, this leaves 18 inches ; half 18 inches 
 is therefore the gauge of a countess slate with a 
 2-inch lap^ 
 
72 
 
 BllICKLAYlNG. 
 
 After the slates are gauged, perhaps it would 
 be best to lay one of them on the roof at the 
 eaves, letting it project over for the drip, according 
 to arrangement — this is generally about 3 inches ; 
 and by so doing it will easily be seen where the 
 first lath should be nailed on the rafters, and from 
 the top of the first lath to the top of the second, 
 and so on, is the gauge. The first lath at the 
 eaves ought to be a little thicker than the others, 
 so as to give the first course of slates its springing ; 
 and the ends of the lath, at the gables, ought also 
 to be raised up about three- eighths of an inch to 
 throw the water ofi* ; if not, it will frequently soak 
 between the cement fillets or under the lead 
 flushing and so enter the roof. 
 
 All slating laths should be from two to three 
 inches wide and five-eighths of an inch thick. 
 The nails used should be either copper or zinc. 
 Iron nails are sometimes used, but they are very 
 liable to rust, and so after a short time become of 
 no use. All slates ought to be fastened with two 
 nails. Doubles and Ladies are sometimes fastened 
 with only one, on account of their smallness, but 
 it is inferior work. 
 
 The Welsh slates are generally considered the 
 best, and are of a light sky-blue colour. West- 
 moreland slates are of a greenish hue. It fre- 
 quently happens, when roofs are covered with 
 these slates, that the slater has to deal with those 
 of various sizes, and of course this requires more 
 skill, for he not only has to arrange them so that 
 they shall break joint one with another, bat the 
 
SLATER AND PLASTEREft l^ 'WOl^V <>a-v 
 
 lathing must also be gauged accordingly; > .Li | 
 this case the largest and thickest slates are hmg,/ 
 at the bottom, and the smallest and thinlresirm 
 the top, nearest the ridge ; and a great deal of 
 care must be taken in trimming and sorting 
 them. 
 
 The gauge is taken in the same way as other 
 kinds of slating, that is, according to the length. 
 
 The following is a table of sizes and gauges of 
 roofing slates : — 
 
 Names. 
 
 Size. 
 
 Gauge 
 
 in 
 Inches. 
 
 Weight 
 
 per 
 Square. 
 
 Number per 
 Square. 
 
 Length. 
 
 Breadth 
 
 Slates. 
 
 Nails. 
 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 ft. in. 
 
 
 lbs. 
 
 
 
 Doubles . . 
 
 1 1 
 
 0 6 
 
 
 672 
 
 480 
 
 960 
 
 Ladies . . . 
 
 1 4 
 
 0 8 
 
 7 
 
 886 
 
 300 
 
 600 
 
 Countesses 
 
 1 8 
 
 0 10 
 
 H 
 
 657 
 
 180 
 
 360 
 
 Duchesses. . 
 
 2 0 
 
 1 0 
 
 
 712 
 
 130 
 
 260 
 
 Rags,Queens ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 and West- j 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 morelands, )■ 
 
 A square of these weighs about half a ton. 
 
 of various | 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 sizes . . J 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The methods of hanging slates vary according 
 to the different situations and also the slates that 
 are used. But in all plain work it is best, if pos- 
 sible, to strain a line for the eaves' course, and so 
 fix the slates to it ; also, to run each course hori- 
 zontally throughout the length of the roof. This 
 is done by gauging the margin of the course at 
 each end upon the first course, and straining a 
 chalked line from end to end, so making a mark 
 
 E 
 
74 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 for a guide to get the second course perfectly 
 straight and parallel with the first. 
 
 When the roof is slated as high up as it is pos- 
 sible to reach from the eaves, a scaffold is erected. 
 This is sometimes done with a scaffold-pole, or a 
 piece of quartering being hung from the ridge- 
 tree with scaffold-cords. But it is much better to 
 make it with hanging trestles in the form of an 
 equal-sided triangle, with an iron hook at the 
 top, so as to fasten it to the ridge with cords ; 
 after which scaffold-boards are laid upon them. 
 This will be a much more convenient scaffold 
 than the previous one, and is easily raised or 
 lowered as required. For all hips and valleys it 
 is usual to fix the trimming-block to one of the 
 rafters or somewhere convenient, so that each slate 
 can be cut according to the shape required with- 
 out the necessity of going off the roof. 
 
 It is sometimes thought best to point slating 
 inside with lime and hair ; but, certainly, if the 
 slating is properly executed, this is unnecessary ; 
 and if it is to keep out the little wind that would 
 otherwise pass between them one would think they 
 would be better without it, for we all know how 
 very hot buildings that are slated usually are, 
 particularly in summer time. 
 
 Plasterer. 
 
 The business of the plasterer chiefly consists in 
 covering walls, ceilings, brick or wood partitions, 
 floors, &c., with cements, limes, and plaster, in 
 order to bring them to a uniform surface to re- 
 
SLATER AND PLASTERER's WORK. 75 
 
 ceive the painting, paper-hanging, or distemper- 
 ing. This part is usually done by the bricklayer 
 in small towns and villages, but in London it 
 forms a separate trade. But the decorative por- 
 tions of the finishing of buildings, such as run- 
 ning cornices, mouldings, making and fixing 
 centre flowers, &c., is almost exclusively done by 
 the plasterer. All internal plastering, as a rule, 
 is done with chalk lime, hair, plaster of Paris, 
 and Keen's and Martin's cements. The following 
 are the different methods of mixing these ma- 
 terials : — 
 
 Lime and Hair, or Coarse Stuff, — For this pur- 
 pose the sand should be clean and sharp, and 
 screened through a coarse screen or sieve. After 
 this it is spread out in a circle to form a pan to 
 receive the lime. This is mixed or slacked in a 
 tub, and sufficient water is afterwards added to 
 bring it to the consistence of cream, and is then 
 run through a fine sieve into the pan formed with 
 the sand. After a sufficient quantity is run out 
 to carry the sand, the hair is thrown into the 
 lime, and thoroughly raked about with a two- 
 pronged rake, so as to part the hair and mix it 
 well with the mortar. 
 
 For this purpose bullocks' hair is generally 
 used, and this should be well beaten with small 
 laths, or else laid in water a day or two before it 
 is mixed with the lime. The whole is lhea 
 mixed up together, and allowed to lie for a short 
 time before using. 
 
 Fine Stuff, or Putty, is made of pure lime, and 
 E 2 
 
76 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 is mixed in the same way as lime used for coarse 
 stuff; but instead of running it into a pan of 
 sand, this is run into a putty bin/' built with 
 bricks according to the size required, and allowed 
 to remain there until the evaporation of the water 
 has brought it to a proper thickness for use : if 
 the water rise to the top, it can be drawn off if 
 required, and the putty will get dry the sooner. 
 
 For lime stucco the sand is mixed with the 
 putty according to the quantity required. This 
 stucco, when left for painting, is left smooth from 
 the trowel. When plaster of Paris is to be used 
 for the purpose of setting either coarse or fine 
 stuff, the mortar or putty is made into a little 
 pan in the banker. The water is poured in, and 
 afterwards the plaster, so that the latter is well 
 soaked before it is mixed with the mortar. This 
 is called gauged stuff, and is used for running 
 cornices, mouldings, and in fact all kinds of work 
 which ought to be finished by one operation. 
 
 The various cements and other compositions 
 made use of by the plasterer are very numerous ; 
 but those principally used for inside decorations, 
 are Keen's, Martin's, and Parian cements ; these 
 are well adapted for plastering where hardness 
 and beautiful finish are required ; Keen's 
 cement is used for skirtings, dados, angle beads, 
 &c., because of its extreme hardness. 
 
 Portland, Roman, and lias cements are those 
 generally in use for all external plastering ; and 
 as regards quality and cheapness, Portland is 
 decidedly the best. 
 
SLATER AND PLASTEHEr's WORK. 
 
 77 
 
 All enrichments, such as flowers or fruit 
 cornices, centre flowers, &c., are first moulded in 
 clay and afterwards cast in plaster of Paris, or 
 made of papier-mache. 
 
 The Operations of Plastering. — Almost the first 
 thing the plasterer does is the lathing, so he 
 can get all the woodwork rendered first, as this 
 takes longer to dry than the brickwork. And 
 for this purpose he uses single, one and a half, and 
 double laths. These names denote the difierent 
 thicknesses. The laths are generally of fir. 
 Care ought to be taken that the thickest laths are 
 used for the ceilings, on account of there being a 
 greater strain when in an horizontal position than 
 when upright. The first coat of plastering of 
 coarse stufi" upon the laths of ceilings is called 
 pricking up, and is used very stifi*, to prevent its 
 dropping ofi* again. 
 
 But the first coat on walls is the rendering ; the 
 second the screeding, or floating, from its being 
 brought to a level surface with the screeding rule 
 and hand-float ; and the third or last is called 
 the setting or fining off. 
 
 The first coat is laid on rough, and afterwards 
 scratched with a piece of lath, to form a key for 
 the second coat. The operation of floating walls 
 is perform( d by fixing upright stripes of plastering 
 about 6 or 8 inches wide, and about 6 feet apart, 
 if only one man is to work upon them ; these 
 form the screeds : and the method of obtaining 
 them is by setting small pieces of plaster at each 
 angle of the wall that is to be plastered. These 
 
78 
 
 BRICKLAYIXG. 
 
 are called ^^dots," and the dot nearest the ceiling 
 should be plumb with that nearest the floor ; 
 after this a line is drawn along the ceiling from 
 one to the other, and the intermediate ones fixed 
 to it. Then repeat the operation with those dots 
 nearest the floor ; these ought to be gauged with 
 a little plaster of Paris, so as to make them set 
 quicker ; the screeds may then be filled up, and 
 floated level with these dots. The bays formed by 
 the screeds may then be plastered with coarse 
 stufl*, and floated perfectly level with the floating 
 rule. The second coating of ceilings is performed 
 in the same way, only one is upright and the 
 other is level. 
 
 In two-coat work the rendering and screeding 
 are performed at one time upon brickwork. After 
 the work has been brought to a level surface with 
 the floating-rule, should there be any deficiencies 
 caused by stones or knots of hair, they are made 
 good with the hand-float. 
 
 Sometimes it is thought best to either sweep 
 the floated work, or else put a nail through the 
 float, so as to project a little on the face of it, and 
 then rub it over the work, and so give it a key 
 for the fine stuff*. The fioating should be allowed 
 to get hard, but not too dry, before the fine stuff 
 is laid on ; at all events, unless the wall is in a 
 damp situation, it ought to be sprinkled with 
 water from the stock-brush. Fine stuff is some- 
 times laid on with the laying-on trowel, and 
 sometimes with the hand-float, at all events the 
 latter is used to bring the fine stuff to a regular 
 
SLATER AND PLASTERER's WORK. 79 
 
 surface before it is trowelfed off. This is done by 
 well rubbing it, either with the laying-on or 
 gauging trowel, alternately wetting it with the 
 stock-brush until a fine and smooth surface is 
 obtained. Stucco, which is left smooth on the 
 face, and gauge stuff, are treated in the same way. 
 
 All work left from the trowel ought to be watched 
 for a day or two, and if any small cracks are seen, 
 they ought to be well wetted and trowelled over ; 
 but these are seldom seen in stucco work, the sand 
 preventing this to a great extent. 
 
 Rough Stucco is sometimes used for halls, stair- 
 cases, passages, &c. ; this is left from the float, 
 und sometimes a little extra sand is put with the 
 finishing coat ; but in other respects it is 
 executed in the same way as smooth stucco. 
 
 Laid Work. — This is simply a coat of coarse 
 stuff laid upon brickwork, or lathing, to receive 
 limewhiting or colouring, and is often done in 
 cellars, outhouses, &c., where a better kind of 
 plastering is thought unnecessary. If cellar 
 ceilings are covered with this rough plastering, 
 it prevents the wind from passing through the 
 floor-boards to the rooms above, which is often 
 very uncomfortable. But of late years it has 
 become the practice to make the floors fireproof 
 as well as airproof ; and this is sometimes done 
 by pugging,'^ that is, lining the spaces between 
 the floor-joist with concrete two or three inches 
 thick ; and to receive this, fillets are nailed on 
 each side of the joists, and a rough boarding ia 
 laid upon them. 
 
80 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 Portland cement is used by the plasterer to a 
 great extent for making floors, and there is little 
 doubt of its answering that purpose if it is laid 
 sufficiently thick, and the materials are gauged 
 in a proper manner. For this purpose (as well as 
 all others) the cement ought to be gauged with 
 sharp sand, free from clay, in equal quantities, 
 both for the first coat and also for the second ; for 
 if the first coat is gauged with a greater quantity 
 of sand than the second, they will not bind 
 together ; besides pure cement swells more in 
 setting than cement and sand does when mixed 
 up together ; therefore if the finishing coat is 
 made finer than the first, it will be very liable to 
 blister, and so destroy the floor. The sand for 
 the last coat ought to be well washed, and the 
 two coats need not exceed an inch in thickness. 
 In many parts of England, where there are plaster 
 mills in the vicinity, it is usual to lay floors of 
 that material. But this plaster is of a much 
 rougher kind than that which is generally used ; 
 in fact it is a sort of dross from the mills. These 
 floors are laid about 2 inches or 2^ inches in 
 thickness, and finished at one operation. A 
 plaster floor of Welsh lime is thought to be 
 equally as good as grey plaster, and can be done 
 for one-third less. 
 
 In some of the eastern counties the fronts of 
 houses are plastered with a rough stucco, and 
 while it is damp well dashed with small stones ; 
 this answers very well for renewing old fronts, 
 where they have previously been plastered, for by 
 
SLATER AND PLASTERER's WORK. 
 
 81 
 
 pulling off the old mortar, and replastenng and 
 dashing it, the front will be well repaired and 
 still retain its original appearance. 
 
 Plastering may be summed up as follows : — 
 The commonest kind of work consists of only one 
 coat, this is called rendering on brickwork, and 
 laying y if on laths; when a second coat is added, 
 it becomes two-coat work, as render set, or lath lay 
 and set ; and when the work is floated, it is three- 
 coat work, and is lath lay float and set for ceilings 
 and partitions, and render float and set for brick- 
 work. 
 
 The following remarks may be found useful : — 
 100 yards of lathing require 20 bundles of 
 
 laths and 7,600 nails. 
 
 100 yards of rendering, or laying, 20 bushels of 
 
 chalk lime, 40 bushels of sand, and 3 bushels of 
 
 hair. 
 
 100 yards of floating requires about half as 
 much as rendering. 
 
 And setting requires 10 bushels of lime, 2 
 bushels of white hair and a little sand if 
 required. 
 
 Render set requires per 100 yards, 30 bushels 
 of lime, 42 bushels of sand, and 5 bushels of 
 hair. 
 
 Render float and set, 40 bushels of lime, 62 
 bushels of sand, and 7 bushels of hair, to 100 
 yards. 
 
 A bushel and a half of Portland cement will 
 plaster two yards superficial three-quarters of an 
 inch thick. 
 
 E 3 
 
82 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 Artificial Stone. 
 
 The following may be found very useful, both 
 on account of its cheapness, simplicity, and 
 durability : — 
 
 Take 7 parts of coke dust, screened through a 
 quarter bar screen, to 1 part of Portland cement, 
 for all kinds of ornamental purposes, such as small 
 columns, capitals, balustrades, mouldings for 
 cornices, chimney-pieces, &c. But for pavement, 
 steps, window-sills, hearth-stones, or any rougher 
 kind of work, 5 parts of coke dust, and 3 parts of 
 any hard substance, such as burnt earth, broken 
 brick, &c. ; but these also should be screened 
 before they are mixed with the cement. Moulds 
 are then made of wood, or in some cases iron, to 
 the shape required, care being taken that they are 
 a little smaller at the bottom than they are at the 
 top, so that the moulded work shall turn out of 
 the mould freely when set ; the moulds should be 
 well greased first, and a little pure cement mixed 
 up very thin thrown into them ; the cement and 
 coke dust, or cement, coke dust, and broken bricks, 
 are then mixed with water to form a sort of con- 
 crete, and gently put into the moulds ; if this is 
 done properly the soft, pure cement will flow all 
 round the inside of the mould, and so give a 
 facing to the coarser stufi* ; the top is finished off 
 level with the mould with the trowel. This work 
 should be left until it is perfectly hard, which will 
 take two or three days. There is one fault attached 
 to this composition, that is, when it is used for 
 
SLATER AND PLASTERER's WORK. 83 
 
 steps, stair- cases, or pavement, it is liable to get 
 very smooth and slippery ; but in other respects it 
 answers very well. 
 
 Distempering of Ceilings, Walls, Etc. 
 
 For this purpose the work should be well washed 
 with clean water and scraped with the trowel, so 
 as to thoroughly clean off all old whitening. Of 
 course, if the walls and ceilings are new they do 
 not require this. After they are dry they should 
 be clear-coledy that is, sized over with clear size, 
 taking care in melting the size that it does not 
 boil, but only heated sufficient to melt it. If glue is 
 used instead of size, put 1^ pints of water to each 
 pound of glue. When this is done, the work is 
 ready to receive the whitewash. To mix this, 
 break the whitening into a vessel containing suffi- 
 cient water to cover it, and let it soak well, and 
 if any water remains on the top, pour it off, and 
 mix the size with the whitening, which will be 
 about 4 lbs. to the ball, more or less as required ; 
 and strain a little blue-black into the vessel con- 
 taining them, and well mix the whole together. 
 This mixing is usually done the day before the 
 whitening is required for use ; then the size will 
 get set, and by stirring well before using it, the 
 whole will work up into a jelly. Should there 
 be any water stains in the ceilings, they should 
 be well w^ashed with strong soft soap and water, 
 and if this fail, paint them previous to white- 
 washing the ceiling. All work ought to receive 
 two coats. 
 
84 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 SECTIOIsr VI. 
 
 PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 
 
 The problems here given are those only which 
 it is absolutely necessary for the bricklayer to 
 understand before he can be considered a pro- 
 ficient tradesman. 
 
 1. A solid is a figure, or a body having three 
 dimensions, viz., length, breadth, and thickness. 
 The boundaries of a solid are surfices or super- 
 ficies. 
 
 2. A superficies, or surfice, has length and 
 breadth only ; the boundaries of a surfice are lines. 
 
 3. A line is length without breadth, and is 
 formed by the motion of a point. The extremities 
 of a line are points. 
 
 5. A point is that which has no parts or 
 magnitude ; it is indivisible ; it has no length, 
 breadth, nor thickness. 
 
 6. When a straight line, b d, standing on 
 
 another, a C, makes the 
 angle d b a equal to the 
 angle d b c, each of these 
 ano^les is called a rio:ht 
 angle ; the measure of the 
 angle d b a is 90 degrees, 
 or the fourth part of 360 
 
 degrees. 
 
 7. An acute angle is less than a right angle, as 
 
 DBG. 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATIt)X. 
 
 8. An obtiis. angle is greater than ar^ht d:fig}e'] 
 
 as c B o. "^^^1^ 
 
 9. A plane triangle is tlie space in 
 closed by three straight lines, and has 
 three angles, as b. 
 
 10. A right-angled triangle is 
 that which has one of its angles 
 right as A B c ; the side A c opposite 
 the right angle is called the hypo- 
 thenuse, the side B c the perpen- 
 dicular, and B A the base. 
 
 11. An obtuse-angled triangle has 
 one of its angles obtuse, as the tri- 
 angle c. 
 
 12. An acute-angled triangle has 
 all its three angles acute, as shown 
 in figure B. 
 
 13. An equilateral triangle has 
 all its sides and angles equal as d. 
 
 14. An isosceles triangle is that which 
 has two of its sides equal, as e. 
 
 15. A scaline triangle is that which 
 has all its sides unequal, as f. 
 
 16. A square is a four- sided 
 figure having all its sides equal 
 and all its angles right. 
 
 17. An oblong, or rectangle, is a 
 right angled parallelogram, whose 
 length exceeds its breadth, as g. 
 
 18. A rhombus is a parallelogram 
 having all its sides equal, but its 
 angles are not right angles, as h. 
 
86 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 \- y 19. A rhomhoid is a parallelo- 
 
 \ / \ gram having its opposite sides 
 
 \ A equal, but its angles are not 
 
 right-angles, and its length ex- 
 ceeds its breadth, as I. 
 
 20. A trapezium is a figure in- 
 cluded by four straight lines, no 
 two of which are parallel to each 
 other, as k. A line connecting any 
 two of its opposite angles is called 
 a diagonal. 
 
 21. A trapezoid is a four-sided 
 figure having two of its opposite 
 sides parallel, as m. 
 22. Polygons are those which have more than 
 four sides. They receive particular names from 
 the number of their sides ; thus a pentagon has 
 five sides, a hexagonhdi^ six sides, di heptagon seven, 
 an octagon eight, a nonagon nine, a decagon ten, 
 an imdecagon eleven, and a dodecagon has twelve 
 sides. 
 
 If all the sides of each figure are equal, it is 
 called a regular polygon ; but if unequal, an 
 irregular polygon. 
 
 23. A circle is a plane 
 contained by one line, called its 
 circumference, which is every- 
 where equally distant from a 
 point within it called its centre, 
 as o ; and an arc of a circle is any 
 part of its circumference, as a b 
 
 figure 
 
 24. 
 
 The diameter of a circle is a straight line 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AXD MENSURATION. 87 
 
 passing IL rough the centre and terminated both 
 
 circumference into two equal 
 parts each containing 180 degrees. 
 
 Any h*ne drawn from the centre perpendicular 
 to A B, it divides the semicircle into two equal 
 parts, AOS and bos, each of which is called a 
 quadrant, or one-fourth of a circle ; and the arcs 
 A s and B s contain each 90 degrees ; and they 
 are said to be the measure of the angles a o s and 
 
 BOS. 
 
 25. A chord of an arc is a straight line joining 
 its extremities, and is less than the diameter ; c b 
 is the chord of the arc c d b, or of the arc c a s b. 
 
 26. A segment of a circle is that part of the 
 circle contained between the chord and the cir- 
 cumference, and may be greater or less than a 
 semicircle. 
 
 From a given pointy p, in a ^ 
 straight line, A b, to erect a /< 
 perpendicular, 
 
 1. On each side of the point, __. I 
 
 p, take equal portions, VXyVf; 
 
 and from the centres, x /, with any radius greater 
 
 ways by the circumference ; thus 
 A B is the diameter of the circle ; 
 the diameter divides the circle 
 into two equal parts, each of 
 which is called a semicircle : 
 the diameter also divides the 
 
 Problem I. 
 
88 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 than p Xy describe two arcs, cutting each other at 
 D ; then the line joining d p will be perpen- 
 dicular to A B. 
 
 When the poin t, P, is at the end of the line. 
 
 2. From any centre, c, 
 out of the line, and with the 
 distance, c b, as radius, de- 
 scribe a circle, cutting a b 
 in D, draw d c o, and the 
 line joining the points o B 
 will be perpendicular to a b. 
 
 Or thus : 
 
 Set one leg of the com- 
 passes on B, and with any 
 extent, b p, describe an arc, 
 T x; set off the same extent 
 from p to 5' ; join p q ; from q 
 as centre with the extent, p g, 
 as radius describe an arc r, 
 and the line joining r b will be 
 B perpendicular to A b. 
 
 PROBLE:Nr II. 
 
 Upon a given right line to describe an equilateral 
 triangle. 
 
 Let A B be the given right line. 
 From the centres A and b, with the 
 given line a b as radius, describe 
 two arcs cutting each other at c ; 
 then the line drawn from the point c to the points 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 89 
 
 A and B will form with the line A b the triangle 
 required. 
 
 Problem III. 
 
 To describe a triangle, having the length of the three 
 sides given. 
 
 Let A B, c D, E F, be the given lines, of which 
 A B is the base line. 
 From B as centre with 
 c D as radius describe an 
 arc, and from a as centre 
 with E F as radius de- 
 scribe another arc, cut- c l 
 
 ting the first at g ; join ^ ^ 
 A G, G B : this will give the triangle required. 
 
 Problem IY. 
 
 To find the centre of a given circle. 
 
 Draw any two chords a b, 
 B c, and divide each into two 
 equal parts, as shown at e and 
 D ; draw the lines e o and o d 
 at right angles to a b and b c, 
 and where these lines intersect 
 at o will be the centre of the given circle a b c. 
 
 Problem V. 
 To describe a regular pentagon upon a given line. 
 Let A B be the given line. With b as centre 
 and B A as radius describe the semicircle a c d ; 
 then with a as centre, with same radius, describe 
 
90 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 an ^rc cutting the semicircle in c ; bisect a b at e, 
 join c bisect the arc c b in r, join e f; then 
 
 with D as centre, e f for 
 radius, cut the semicircle 
 in G, and with g as 
 centre, with same radius, 
 cut the semicircle in h; 
 draw the line h b and 
 bisect it at i, and at 
 this point erect a perpendicular cutting the line 
 e c in X ; this will be the centre of the circum- 
 scribing circle. 
 
 Problem YI. 
 
 To describe a regular hexagon upon a given line. 
 
 Let A B be the given line. With a as centre 
 and A B as radius describe an arc, 
 and with b as centre with same 
 radius describe a second arc, cut- 
 ting the first in c ; this point of 
 intersection is the centre of the 
 circumscribing circle. 
 
 TABLE OF POLYGONS. 
 
 No. of Sides. 
 
 Name of Polygon. 
 
 Multiplier or Divisor. 
 
 5 
 
 
 1 — 7 decimals 
 
 6 
 
 
 2 — 0 or radius 
 
 7 
 
 
 2—3 
 
 8 
 
 
 2—62 
 
 9 
 
 
 2—9 
 
 10 
 
 
 3—247 
 
 11 
 
 
 3—55 
 
 12 
 
 
 3—84 
 
The preceding Table may be u 
 describing regular polygons of a: 
 sides, from five to twelve inclusive. 
 
 PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND IV] 
 
 Description of the above Table, 
 
 In the left-hand column will be found the 
 number of sides of any polygon having from five 
 to twelve sides. In the second column will be 
 found the name of the polygon corresponding 
 with the number in the first column. And the 
 third column contains those figures by which the 
 length of the side must be multiplied for the 
 diameter of the circumscribing circle ; or by 
 which the length of the diameter of a given circle 
 must be divided to give the length of the side of 
 each polygon in a line with it in the opposite 
 column. 
 
 What is the length of each side of a regular 
 pentagon, the diameter of the circumscribing 
 circle being 4 feet ? 
 
 Examples. 
 
 Divider 
 
 ft. ffc. 
 
 1-7) 4-0 (2-35 Answer, in feet and 
 3 4 decimal parts. 
 
 •6-0 
 
 5 1 
 
 • 9-0 
 
 8 5 
 
 •5 Rem. 
 
 Or thus : — 
 
 What is the diameter of the circumscribing 
 
92 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 circle of a nonagon, each side being 2 feet in 
 length P 
 
 2 feet length of side. 
 2*9 multiplier. 
 
 1 8 
 4 
 
 5 -8 Answer. 
 
 Therefore the diameter of the circle is 5 feet 
 and 8-lOths of a foot, which is equal to 5 feet 
 9 inches and 5-8ths of an inch. 
 
 Problem YII. 
 
 To describe an ellipsis, having the longest diameter 
 given. 
 
 Let A B be the given diameter. Erect the per- 
 pendicular c D, and divide A b into four equal 
 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 1 /| 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 parts at 1, 2, 3 ; then with 1 2 3 as centres, with 
 radius 1 2, describe the three circles as shown ; 
 then from f as centre with f e as radius describe 
 the arc c, and with h as centre with same radius 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 93 
 
 describe the arc d. This will complete the 
 ellipsis. 
 
 Another method of describing an ellipse. 
 
 Let A B, c D, be the given diameters drawn at 
 right angles with each other. Then with c as 
 
 centre with a o as radius describe an arc cutting 
 A B at e and /; then take a piece of string or very 
 lino wire the length of a b, fix one end at e and 
 the other at /; then draw the ellipse by running 
 the pencil along the string, taking care the string 
 is kept tight with the pencil. 
 
 Problem YIII. 
 
 To describe a circle about any triangle. 
 
 Bisect any two sides as 
 shown at a and b, and 
 draw perpendicular lines 
 intersecting at c. This 
 point of intersection is 
 the centre from which 
 the circle is drawn. 
 
94 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 Problem IX. 
 
 To inscribe a circle within a triangle. 
 
 From A as centre with 
 any radius describe an 
 arc B c ; bisect it, and 
 through the point of bi- 
 section draw the line A o ; 
 bisect the angle d e b, 
 and draw the line o e. 
 ^ ^ Where the lines a o and 
 
 o E intersect is the centre of the circl 
 
 Problem X. 
 In a given circle to inscr-he a square. 
 
 Draw any two diameters, A b, 
 c D, at right angles to each 
 other, then join their extremi- 
 ties, and the figure thus formed 
 will be a square inscribed in a 
 given circle. And if a line be 
 drawn from the centre o, bisect- 
 ing AD, and produced to r, e d will be the length 
 of one side of an octagon inscribed in the circle. 
 
 Problem XI. 
 
 In a given circle, to inscribe any regular polygon ; 
 or, to dioide the circumference of a given circle 
 into any number of equal parts. 
 
 Divide the diameter a b into as many equal 
 parts as the figure has sides .; erect the perpen- 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 95 
 
 dicular o s from the centre o ; divide the ra- 
 dius o / into four equal parts, 
 and set off three of these 
 parts from / to s ; draw a 
 line from s to the second 
 division h of the diameter 
 A B, and produce it to cut 
 the circumference at c ; join 
 A c, and it will be the side 
 of the polygon required. 
 
 Problem XII. 
 
 To draw a straight line equal to any given arc of a 
 circle. 
 
 Let A c B be the given arc of 
 a circle ; divide the chord a b 
 into four equal parts, and set 
 off one of these parts from b to c ; join d c, and it 
 will be the length of half the given arc, suffi- 
 ciently near enough for practice. 
 
 Problem XIII. 
 
 To make a square equal in area to a given circle. 
 
 Divide the diameter a b into 
 fourteen equal parts, and set off 
 eleven of them from a to c ; 
 from c erect the perpendicular 
 c D and join a d, the square of 
 which will be very nearly equal 
 to the area of the given circle 
 of which A D B is the half. 
 
96 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 The foregoing geometrical problems are those 
 generally used by the bricklayer ; but for those 
 who are anxious to proceed farther, there are 
 many excellent manuals of instruction. 
 
 A FEW REMAEKS ON MENSURATION OF 
 BKICKLAYERS' WORK. 
 
 The area of any plane figure is the space con- 
 tained within its boundaries, and is estimated by 
 the number of square miles, yards, feet, inches, 
 and parts which it contains. This squaring is 
 generally estimated by the following rules of 
 arithmetic, viz. : duodecimals, or cross multiplica- 
 tion, decimals, and practice. 
 
 Duodecimals. 
 
 Rule 1. Write the multiplier under the multi- 
 plicand in such a manner that feet shall be under 
 feet, inches under inches, and parts under parts. 
 
 2. Multiply each term of the multiplicand 
 (beginning at the lowest) by the number of feet 
 in the multiplier, and write each result under its 
 respective term, taking care to carry one for 
 every 12 from each lower denomination to its 
 next superior, and set down the remainder under 
 the term last multiplied. 
 
 3. Next multiply the terms of the multiplicand 
 by the number under the denomination of inches 
 in the multiplier ; carry 1 for every 12, as before. 
 But set down each remainder one place further to 
 the right than as if multiplied by a number under 
 the denomination of feet. 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MjE^URjq^hW^. 
 
 4. Proceed in the same mannet^"; yith <|h€ 
 second in the multiplier, setting each* result.iw6^ 
 more place further to the right hand, and so on 
 with thirds, fourths, &c. 
 
 5. Add the partial products thus obtained up, 
 and their sum will be the product. 
 
 Examples, 
 
 1. Multiply 4 feet 7 inches by 3 feet 10 inches 
 
 ft. in. 
 4 7 
 3 10 
 
 13 9 
 3 9-10 
 
 17 6-10 
 
 2. Multiply 37 feet 9 inches 3 parls by 7 feet 6 inches and 
 5 parts. 
 
 ft. in. pts. 
 37 9 3 
 7 6 5 
 
 264 4 9 
 18 10 7-6 
 1 3 8 • 10 • 3 
 
 284 7_1 -4-3 
 
 ft. in. ft. in. ft. in. pts. 
 
 3. Multiply 7 6 X 5 9 Answer 43 1 6 
 
 4. Multiply 9 8 X 7 6 „ 72 6 
 
 5. Multiply 75-9X 35-3 „ 25 86-2-3 
 
 6. Multiply 57 9 X 9 5 „ 543 9 9 
 
 7. Multiply 75 9 X 17 7 „ 1331 9 3 
 
 Decimal Fractions. 
 
 In decimal fractions the integer or whole 
 thing, as one yard, one foot, &c., is supposed to 
 be divided into ten equal parts, and these parts 
 into tenths, and so on without end. 
 
98 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 These parts are distinguished from the whole 
 numbers by a point prefixed: thus — '5, which 
 stands for 5-lOths, or half a whole number; -25, 
 which stands for 25-lOOths, or one-quarter of a 
 whole number ; or -75, which stands for 75-lOOths, 
 or three-quarters of a whole number. 
 
 Whole numbers increase in ten-fold proportion 
 to the left hand ; decimal parts decrease in ten- 
 fold proportion to the right hand ; so that ciphers 
 placed before decimal parts decrease their value 
 by removing them further from the point ; or 
 units placed thus — 'b, is 5-lOths ; -05, is 5-lOOths ; 
 and '005, is 5-lOOOths. But ciphers after 
 decimal parts do not alter their value ; for '5, '50, 
 •500 are each but 5-lOths, or half a whole 
 number. 
 
 Bule, — In addition of decimals great care must 
 be taken in setting down the figures to be added 
 up, so that each figure shall come under another 
 of the same value, whether this be a mixed 
 number or pure decimal parts. And, in order to 
 do this, there must be a due regard had to the 
 separating points, which ought always to stand 
 iu a direct line one with another; and, to the 
 right hand of these, carefully place the decimal 
 parts according to their respective values, and 
 add them as in whole numbers. 
 
 Examjjles, 
 
 To add 5 ft. 9 in., 7 ft. 6 in., 3 ft. 8 in., and 
 7 ft. 10 in. together. 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AIND MENSURATION. 99 
 
 ■r,. Decimal 
 parts. 
 
 5-75 Equal 5 ft. 9 in. 
 
 7-5 „ 7 ft. 6 in. 
 
 3-25 „ 3 ft. 3 in. 
 
 7-835 „ 7 ft. 10 in. 
 
 24-335 Answer, equal 24 ft. 4 in. 
 
 Subtraction of Decimals. 
 
 This differs but very little from whole numbers, 
 only in placing the numbers, which must be 
 carefully observed, as in addition. 
 
 Examples. 
 
 Subtract 2-395 from 7*62, and 5 ft. 9 in. from 
 27 ft. 3 in. 
 
 7-620 27-25 
 2-395 5-75 
 
 5'225 Answer. 21-50 = 21 ft. 6 in. 
 
 1. From -769 take -543 Answer -226 
 
 2. From 1-743 take '339 Answer 1-404 
 
 3. From 3-975 take 1-243 Answer 2-732 
 
 4. From 407*2 take 49-362 Answer 357'838 
 
 Multiplication of Decimals. 
 
 Rule. — Place the decimal parts, and multiply 
 them as in whole numbers ; and from the product 
 cut off as many figures towards the right hand as 
 there are figures representing decimal parts, both 
 in the multiplier and multiplicand together ; but 
 should there not be so many places in the product, 
 f2' 
 
100 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 make up tlie defect by adding ciphers towards the 
 left hand. 
 
 Examples. 
 
 Multiply 5 ft. 6 in. X 8 ft. 10 in. 
 0-5 
 8-835 
 
 275 
 165 
 440 
 440 
 
 48-5925 : = 48 ft. 7J in. 
 
 Multiply 3-074 X 25-93 Answer 79*70882 
 Multiply 25-15 X 72-04 Answer 1811-8060 
 Multiply -07 X 1-02 Answer -0714 
 
 Division of Decimals. 
 
 This is worked in the same way as whole 
 numbers, the only difficulty is in valuing the 
 quotient. 
 
 Rule 1. — The first figure in the quotient is 
 always of the same value with that figure of the 
 dividend which answers or stands over the place 
 of units in the divisor. 
 
 Rule 2. — The quotient should always have as 
 many decimals as the dividend has more than the 
 divisor. 
 
 Note 1. — If the divisor and dividend have both 
 the same number of decimal parts, the quotient 
 will be a whole number. 
 
 Note 2. — If the dividend has not so many 
 places of decimals as there are in the divisor, 
 
 Multiply 3-795 
 By 2-43 
 
 11385 
 15180 
 
 7590 
 
 9-22185 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 101 
 
 then so many ciphers must be added to the 
 dividend as will make them equal, and the quo- 
 tient will then be a whole number. 
 
 Note 3. — And if, when the sum is done, the 
 quotient has not so many figures as it should have 
 places of decimals, then so many ciphers must be 
 added as there are places wanting. 
 
 Brickwork is estimated at the rate of a brick 
 and a half thick ; this is called the standard thick- 
 ness, so that if a wall is either more or less than 
 this thickness it must be reduced to it ; thus : — 
 Multiply the superficial contents of the wall by 
 the number of half-bricks in thickness, and 
 divide the product by 3. 
 
 When a piece of brickwork is to be measured, 
 the first thing to be done is to ascertain what 
 measures are to be employed : then, having mul- 
 tiplied the length and breadth together, if the 
 dimensions are feet, the product is divided by the 
 divisor agreed upon, this is generally 272^ feet 
 to the rod standard thickness, and the quotient 
 will be the number of rods and feet contained 
 within the dimensions taken. 
 
 In measuring work by the rod of 272^ feet, it 
 is very seldom the odd quarter is used, owing to 
 its taking more labour in figuring for a mere 
 trifle. 
 
 Examples, 
 
 How many rods of brickwork (standard thick- 
 ness) are there in a wall 34 feet 6 inches long by 
 23 feet 9 inches high, at 1| bricks thick ? 
 
102 
 
 V 
 
 BRICKLAYING 
 
 Duodecimals. 
 
 It. in. 
 
 34 6 
 23 9 
 
 102 0 
 68 0 
 
 11 6 
 
 25 10 • 6 
 
 272) 819 4-6 (3 rds. 3 ft. 4| in. Answer. 
 
 816 
 
 Decimata. 
 
 ft. 
 
 34 • 5 
 23 • 75 
 
 1725 
 2415 
 1035 
 690 
 
 272) 819 • 375 (3 • 0124* rds. Answei. 
 816 
 
 337 
 272 
 
 655 
 544 
 
 1110 
 1088 
 
 • 22 
 
 If the area of a wall be 3^700 feet, and the 
 thickness 2 J bricks, how many rods and feet does 
 it contain ? 
 
 * This decimal fraction equals 3 ft. 4 J in. 
 
3700 feet the area, by 
 5 half-bricks thick. 
 
 Standard divisor 3) 18500 
 
 272) 6166 (22 rds. 
 544 
 
 726 
 544 
 
 182 feet. 
 
 Chimney Shafts. 
 
 In measuring chimneys, when standing clear 
 from any party wall, it is usual to take the girth 
 of the middle for the breadth, and the height of 
 the story for the length : the thickness should be 
 the same as the depth of the jambs ; and if the 
 chimney is carried, up square to the ceiling, no 
 deductions are made for the fire-place, on account 
 of the extra labour in gathering the wing walls 
 over to prepare for the hearth in the room above. 
 
 The chimney- shaft, or that portion which is 
 above the roof, is measured by taking the girth 
 round the middle for the breadth, and the height 
 for the length. But in cases where there is a 
 greater amount of labour, it is reckoned half a 
 brick more in breadth than it really is, and in 
 extreme cases double measure is allowed. 
 
 Chimney Shafts in the Form of a Circle. — In 
 order to measure these it is necessary to obtain the 
 diameter of the shaft midway between the base 
 
104 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 and the top, as they are usually battering. Square 
 this diameter, and multiply the product by the 
 decimal '7854 ; this will give the area of the 
 circle, after cutting off the four figures from the 
 right hand ; and this area multiplied by the 
 height of the shaft will give the contents in cubic 
 feet. 
 
 Example, 
 
 What is the cubic contents of a shaft the mean 
 diameter of which is 4 feet and the height 60 feet ? 
 
 4 diameter. 
 4 
 
 16 square of diametei. 
 
 • 7854 decimal fraction 
 
 64 
 80 
 128 
 112 
 
 12 • 5664 area of circle. 
 60 height. 
 
 753 • 9840 cubic contents. 
 
 The diameter of a circle is to its circumference 
 as 7 is to 22 ; therefore, if the diameter is not to 
 be obtained by any other means, take the girth or 
 circumference of the shaft, and as 22 is to 7, so is 
 the circumference to the diameter. 
 
 Example. 
 
 Let the girth of a circular shaft be 10 feet, then, 
 by proportion, the diameter will be obtained in 
 the following manner : — 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETKY AND MENSURATION. 105 
 
 ft. ft. ft. 
 22 : 7 : : 10 
 10 
 
 22) 70 (3 • 18 Answer in feet and parto. 
 66 
 
 40 
 22 
 
 180 
 176 
 
 4 Remainder. 
 
 Wheii the shaft is in the form of a regular 
 polygon, the following table may be found useful 
 for the purpose of ascertaining its area in feet 
 or inches : — 
 
 Rule, — Square the length of the side of the 
 polygon, and multiply the product by those 
 figures in a line with the figure in the first 
 column denoting the number of sides of the given 
 polygon ; the product thus obtained will be the 
 area. And this multiplied by the height of the 
 chimney will give the cubic contents. And to 
 bring this into rods, divide by 306 feet. 
 
 Number of 
 Sides. 
 
 Multiplier. 
 
 3 
 
 •433 
 
 5 
 
 1-72 
 
 6 
 
 2-698 
 
 7 
 
 3-634 
 
 8 
 
 4-828 
 
 9 
 
 6-182 
 
 10 
 
 7-694 
 
 11 
 
 9-366 
 
 12 
 
 11-196 
 
 F 3 
 
106 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 Vaulting. — In measuring circular, elliptical, 
 or Gothic vaulting, the rule is to find the super- 
 ficial contents of one end, and multiply it by the 
 length of the vault ; or, take a piece of string or 
 the tape, and ply it close to the soffit from one 
 side of the vault to the other, and this length by 
 the length of the vault will give the superficial 
 contents of soffit ; then multiply by the thickness 
 for standard or cubic contents. But if this 
 method is employed, the outside surface ought to 
 be taken as well as the soffit. Add the two areas 
 together, and divide by 2 for the exact superficial 
 contents, and then multiply by the thickness for 
 standard or cubic contents, as before explained. 
 
 Groins are generally measured by taking the 
 length and breadth of the base and multiplying 
 them together, and that product by the height. 
 But sometimes one-tenth is deducted from the 
 solidity thus found, and the remainder is reck- 
 oned as the solid contents. 
 
 But if measuring for labour only, the groin- 
 points are measured by running measures, the 
 price being so much per foot. 
 
 Bakers' Ovens. — It is usual in measuring these 
 to cube the whole and divide by 306 to bring it 
 to rods. 
 
 A Table of Brickwork, 
 
 Showing how many rods, feet, and inches are 
 contained in any number of superficial feet, from 
 1 foot to 10,000 feet, and so on as far as required ; 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATlONOto? 
 
 and from half a brick to two bricks, and/ 
 addition, to any thickness. 
 
 This table also shows how many bricks are 
 required to build a piece of brickwork, from 1 foot 
 to 10,000 feet, from half a brick to two bricks, and 
 this also, by addition only, to any thickness or 
 number of feet required, at the rate of 16*544 
 bricks to the foot standard thickness, or 4500 to 
 the rod. 
 
 Explanation of the foUoiving Table. 
 
 At the head of this table, over each separate 
 column, is stated the thickness of any wall from 
 half a brick to two bricks, and beneath each of 
 these is a double column, one for giving the rods, 
 feet, and inches, contained in the wall, and the 
 other the number of bricks contained in these 
 rods, feet, and inches, standard measurement; 
 and in the first column towards the left hand will 
 be found the number of feet the wall contains by 
 superficial measurement. 
 
108 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 PQ 
 
 s Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 (M'«^<CDGOOC<l'^<OOOOr-»Ti^CDCOOC<l'^COQO 
 
 Two Brick 
 
 Eds. ft. in. 
 
 TlHCOOTtiGOO'^OOOTiHGOO'«^000'*000^ 
 1— I(MtJhiO':C00050(MCO'>^C£>1:^COOi— ((M'rt^iO 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 Brick Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 I— ICOr^i^OOOOSi— ICO-^COOOOr-HCO^COOOOii— 1 
 rHi-l,-(r-lrHr-lC<lC<l(MC<JCM(MCO 
 
 Half 
 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 One and a '. 
 
 
 rHC<JCOTj1lOCOt--COOiOrHC<ICO'<iH^COt--000 
 I— li— If— IrHi— If— (f— »i— (i— ir— I 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 I Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 CO *0 CO 00 05 ^5 CO W5 00 Oi 
 T-lCqCO'^>0<;Ot>-0005»— l(NCOTtiiOCOI>-OOOiO 
 
 o 
 W 
 
 B 
 
 00^000-<*<000'*OOOtJ<000'«*<000^000 
 
 One 
 
 
 Oi-lC<l(MCO'<*<Tj<lOOOt^OOOOOiOOr-iC<|<M 
 
 1— 1 rH rH i-H 1—1 
 
 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 K Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 Oi— iCOC<lt^COOO'«*<OtO'— 'CO<M»>-(M0CcOOi'^ 
 i-li— ICqC^COCOTtHTtivOCOCOt^-t^COGOojcso 
 
 1—1 
 
 o 
 
 5 
 PQ 
 
 a 
 
 •^000'*OOOTtiOOO'«*iOOO'>^000'*QOO'>^ 
 
 Half 
 
 Eds. ft. 
 
 OOi-tf-li-lC^(MC<lCOCOCOT*<Tj4Ttiio>OU5<:OCO 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 Feet 
 super- 
 ficial. 
 
 i-ic<jcO'<tito<:ot^oociOr-ic<icO'*tocot^ooo5 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 109 
 
 pq 
 
 s Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 1 Bricks. 
 
 '^COOCO^Mi^Otr^CS.— 'COOCCOCSTtit^O-— <co 
 
 M 
 
 o 
 
 3 
 w 
 
 p 
 
 . ft. in. 
 
 COO^COO^OOO^OOO'<^COO'^QOOt*<QO 
 
 <:ococ50(McO'r*H<:Di>-ooOi-ic<l'«!tiu3<:oooo50 
 
 02 
 
 ooooooooooooooooooo 
 
 M 
 o 
 
 3 
 
 H 
 
 M 
 
 3 
 pq 
 
 Number of 
 Biicks. 
 
 
 Half 
 
 d 
 
 ooooooooooooooooooo 
 
 LND A ! 
 
 
 O.— tC<JCO'*iOOt^QOCiO— (-MCO^vOCOt^CO 
 
 c^^c<^c<^<^^c<^o^(^^c<^<^^c^cococo^ocococococo 
 
 O 
 
 
 ooooooooooooooooooo 
 
 : Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 O-— l<M0O'+<«3<r>t^0OCii— 1— ifMCO^VOCOCOCS 
 C<ICO'*kOCOl^COCiOi— iCO-^^Ot^OOOO— 1 
 
 Bbice 
 
 .a 
 
 Tj<OOOTf<OOOT*<OQO'<i<OOOTtiOOOTHOOOTl< 
 
 One : 
 
 
 C0'*T*<U3^CDt^000005OO— •(MC<ICO'<*iTt<iO 
 
 
 Rds, 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 K Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 
 o 
 3 
 
 w 
 
 d 
 
 Q0O^00O^00O'<^<00O'<t"00OT}HC0O'^G0 
 
 Half 
 
 m 
 
 Ot^l>.t^OOCOOOC5CiOiOOO'— li— 1.— ('MC<IC<1 
 
 
 
 ooooooooooooooooooo 
 
 Feet 
 super- 
 ficial. 
 
 Or-'(MC0T^<»OC0l^Q00:)Or-i(MC0^V0CD»^00 
 
 c^c^c<^c<^c<^(^^c^^(N(^^(^^(^^cocococococococo 
 
BRICKLAYING. 
 
 s Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 OOTt<iOOOOCOTj<<:0000(M'?J<(M'?fi'<^<>OiOO 
 COGOO'M'ttt^O:>rHCOVOCOOC<l(MTlHOOOO^ 
 OOGOOiOiOiOiOiOOOOi— ir-lCO>OI>.a5C<l^ 
 
 w 
 
 
 
 Two Brk 
 
 5. ft. in 
 
 O'<^C0O'^Q0OTt400OTj<00OOO00O'«^<00 
 
 <MCOTHCOt^OOO.-l(M'*iO«5000CO<r>OCO«0 
 tQ to to to CO CO CO CO CO CO CO <J0 OS O CN CO CO 
 
 1— I r-H I 
 
 
 Eds 
 
 ooooooooooooooooooo 
 
 Brick Thick.' 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 lOi-IC0M<«-ll>.'^-^|^'<*IOl>-e0(M00C0G0'»*<C0 
 -^COt^-OSi— (CqrtiC0t>-05»— •C<»'^a5iOC<JQO»00 
 COCOCOCOt— t^t^t-^t>.t>.OOCOOOC5'— tco^coco 
 
 1— t 1— I 1— 1 rH CO 
 
 Half 
 
 
 ooooooooooooooooooo 
 
 AND A 
 
 
 05Or-l(MC0'<i<»OC0l>-0005Or-lOOOOOO 
 CO ■rtl ^ to CO 00 C5 O O 
 
 » 
 
 o 
 
 m 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 Brick Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 00(MC<lTfitocoi:^OOa50»-i<Mt-(C<l(MC<IC<I»0 
 CO-^iOCOt^OOOiOt-iC^lrHtOCOCOt^GOOiOO 
 '^'^'^'<^Th'<*<'>^iOlOkO»OiO»OCOI>-GOOi — <M 
 
 a 
 
 O00'*OC0Tt<O00'^O00TfHOO00'<*iO00^ 
 
 One 
 
 Eds. ft. 
 
 COCOIr^OOOOOiOO— '(MCMCOTf^OCOCOOCOCO 
 CO CO CO CO CO CO CO to CO CO CO 
 
 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 K Thick. 
 
 Number of 
 Bricks. 
 
 1^ CO OO CO CO '''^ 
 
 .— iC<l(McOCO'^Tt<totOCOWt^CX5COOO-*a5tOO 
 
 cqcq<^^<^q<^^<^^c^^(^^(^^(^^c<^(^^(^^coco'<t•'«*|^Ol-^ 
 
 1— 1 
 
 o 
 
 .a 
 
 
 5 
 w 
 
 O^COOTt<000'<*<COOTt<0000'^COO'^CO 
 
 Half 
 
 
 cococoTj^Ti<'Tti»oto«5cococor~^ococooeoco 
 
 m 
 
 ooooooooooooooooooo 
 
 "Soj'cS I 05Or-(C<IC0^t0C0t^Q0OO--tOOOOOO 
 OJ , COTtiTjHTtirJ<'^Tj<Tt<T^-<^'«^iO«5COt--000500 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. Ill 
 
 COCOOO^OCOCOOCOCO'OO-tHO^'MCD 
 rH C<1 C<)00->d^^>OU3.— It- coo to-— (t^COCO 
 
 rHrHi— lr-lrH(MTtiCOCO'— <COkOt--C5C<l 
 rH ^ r-l .-( ,-H (M 
 
 0'<*000'*000'^COO^COO-^COOtJ4 
 
 ^ H-i QO •— I (M O O (M >0 GO Ut) GO C<> »0 CO 
 
 ^ CO 'O <—! >0 >— t --^ r-i C5 «0 CO ^ GO CO 
 
 H ^ rHC^r-lCS--tCS«r-l<M(M.-lrHrH.-H 
 
 Hi-HC<lC<lCOCOTtHTtlCi'*05'<*iOS-^C5--HO 
 
 f-ti-HCdcMcocO'^t^'^ 
 
 cor^(M-x>otoa5'^GO(McoO'+'coc<ioo 
 
 Or-Hl— (MQOCOOO^GOCOl^CqOO'OO-t^ 
 C^COfMCi k^O'>lGOiOOOi—tl^'>ICOCOCO'-H 
 TtiCOGOCSi— tC0TtHOC0OOC<lC5>0C'-4Q0>0 
 f-li— li— li-HCO^COOOOir-ICO^O 
 
 ooooooooooooooooo 
 
 COa)QO<X5COCO-rH'<^<COCX)C<J-^COO(M-^CO 
 (M-MOIUtJiOtOOOGOOi OiOr-iO— t(MO 
 
 I— ICVI t-HlM -H i-Hi-H Cli-H (>1 
 
 COf-tTj^t^OCOCOCSGOGOt^tOl^vOt^OCO 
 O .— I I— I I— < <M 0» C^J C<l lO CO I— I O '."O CO C5 
 
 CO^tOCOt-GC05000r-(r-i,— iC-^(M(MG^l 
 CO'-fiOCOt^GOCii— tC<ICOTt<>OCOt--C»aiO 
 i-HC^CO'<!il^OCOi>.OOOi>-» 
 
 I" 
 
 000'^OOOTt<OOO^OCX)'«*<000'^OQO 
 
 OCO"— ICO'^— 'COC<liOCOOOOi(MC<|VOCOQO 
 OCOCOOJa5CO»0(M'^05'-HCOOi'^COi-HCO 
 
 C^C<I r-lrHC<l t-H<M C<l rH r-i r-i 
 
 r_( ^ ,_( C<l C<l 
 
 covor^coor-icO'^o5'^o:>coGO(Moocoo 
 
 tOO«DOCOi— ICOf-ffM'^tikOt^COO.— (CO-rtl 
 C0<Mt^C0G0'?i<C7S^0O>OO>0OC0r-(C0^ 
 
 I— i<M<McocO'^TtiiO'— icoc^ir-coGO'^ok^o 
 I-lI-|(Mc^^cocoT^HT^^^o 
 
 \4 
 
 O^OOOTHOOOTj^OOO-^i^OOOTj^GOOTfl 
 OCOCOOCOCOOO»— IC<I'*10'^COI>-00 00 0 
 
 ococoococo<Mcoc<JoO'+icoa5»Or-( co 
 
 OOOOOOr-(.-i(MCOTf<COIr^OOai^C^ 
 
 ooooooooooooooooo 
 ooooooooooooooooo 
 
 CO-^^OCOt^QOCSOOOOOOOOOO 
 
 .-HC^ico^tcot^coaso 
 
112 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 Example 1st. 
 
 How many rods and feet of standard work are 
 there in a wall 59 feet in length and 12 feet 6 
 inches in height, and 1| bricks thick ? 
 
 Rule. 
 ft. in. 
 
 59 0 the length. 
 12 6 the height 
 
 708 
 
 0 
 
 29 
 
 6 
 
 737 
 
 6 
 
 So by these figures we find the superficial area of 
 the wall to be 737 feet 6 inches. Look in the 
 first column towards the left hand for 700, and 
 opposite that in the sixth column will be found 
 2 rods 156 feet ; look again in the first column for 
 37 feet, and opposite this, in the sixth column, is 
 37 feet ; add the 6 inches, and the product will be 
 as follows : — 
 
 rods ft. in. 
 2 156 0 
 0 37 6 
 
 2 193 6 Answer. 
 
 Example 2ncL 
 
 How many rods, feet, and inches are there in a 
 wall 95 feet long by 17 feet high, at 2 bricks thick ? 
 
 95 X 15 = 1615 ; this is the superficial con- 
 tents of the wall. Look in the first column for 
 the following numbers — 1000 feet, 600 feet, and 
 15 feet ; and opposite these respectively, under 
 the heading '^Two bricks thick,'' will be found 
 
PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND MENSURATION. 113 
 
 the following figures, which added up together 
 will give the standard contents of the wall. 
 
 rods ft. in. 
 
 4 245 4 
 
 2 256 0 
 
 0 20 0 
 
 6 521 4 = 7 rds. 249 ft. 4 in. 
 
 The quantitj^ of bricks required to build a wall 
 containing any given number of superficial feet is 
 taken in almost the same way. 
 
 Example 3rd, 
 
 How many bricks are required to build a wall 
 80 feet long by 27 feet high, at 1| bricks thick P 
 
 80 X 27 = 2160 feet, the area. Look in the 
 first column for 2000 feet, 100 feet, and 60 feet, 
 and against these respectively, in the column 
 headed " One and a half bricks thick,'^ will be 
 found the following figures, which, by addition 
 only, give the number of bricks that will build 
 the wall, 
 
 33088 
 1654 
 992 
 
 35734 Answer. 
 
 The superficial areas of the walls of a house 
 amount to 2649 feet. Now 1200 feet is 2 bricks 
 thick, 900 feet is 1| brick thick, and 549 is one 
 brick thick : how many bricks did the builder 
 require to build the house ? 
 
 Answer, by table, 47403. 
 
114 
 
 BRICKLAYING. 
 
 All gauge- work is measured by superficial 
 measurement (unless otherwise specified) ; and 
 every part that is exposed to view is taken in the 
 dimensions. 
 
 Skewbacks, birds'-mouths, splays, beads, &c., are 
 generally measured by the run. But if measured 
 as gauge- work, it is usual to ply the tape, or a 
 piece of string, close to every part of the brick 
 that is moulded, and afterwards measure it to get 
 the whole of the girth of the work, and this is 
 multiplied by the length for the contents. 
 
 Arches are also measured by the girth multiplied 
 by the length. 
 
 1000 new stock bricks stacked in bolts measure 
 50 feet cubic. 
 
 1000 old bricks cleaned and stacked in bolts 
 measure 72 cubic feet. 
 
 Short axd Useful Table. 
 
 27 7i cubic inches 1 gallon of water. 
 
 1 cubic foot contains 6 gallons If pints. 
 
 144 square inches equal 1 square foot. 
 
 1728 cubic inches „ 1 cubic foot. 
 
 9 square feet 1 square yard. 
 
 27 cubic feet 1 cubic yard or load. 
 
 100 superficial feet „ 1 square. 
 
 Tiling and Slating is measured by the square, 
 and double measure is generally allowed for hips 
 and valleys ; i.e. for valleys : take the length of 
 the ridge for one dimension, and the depth from 
 ridge to eaves for the other, and multiply one by 
 the other for the contents ; and for hips take the 
 length of the eaves for one dimension, and the 
 depth from ridge for the other, and multiply 
 
( A- %\ 
 
 PRACTICAL GEOMETRY AND ME^URATI(^. 
 
 together ; double measure is also allcH^^fl^or 
 eaves so much as they project over \ Sh^all-V 
 plates. 
 
 When sky-lights and chimney- shafts are not 
 very large, no deductions are made for them ; but 
 if they should be large, the amount is deducted. 
 
 Paving is measured by the square, yard, or 
 foot, according to arrangement. 
 
 Plastering is either measured by the foot, yard, 
 or square of 100 feet. 
 
 Mouldings, &c., are calculated by the running 
 foot, or yard. 
 
 Doorways, windows, fireplaces, &c., are usually 
 deducted, and the ceilings and walls are measured 
 separately. 
 
 Whitewashing and colouring are measured just 
 the same as plain plastering, and where this is 
 done between rafters and principals, no deductions 
 are made owing to the extra labour. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 PRINTED BY J. S. VIRTUE AND CO., LIMITED) CITY ROAD, LONDON. 
 
PHILADELPHIA, 1876. 
 
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 PIONEER ENGINEERING. A Treatise on the Engineering 
 Operations connected with the Settlement of Waste Lands in New 
 Coimtries. By Edward Dobson, A. I.C.E. With Plates and 
 Wood Engravings. Revised Edition. i2mo, 5j. cloth. 
 
 " A workmanlike production, and one without possession of which no man should 
 start to encounter the duties of a pioneer engineer." — Athenantin. 
 
 Steam Engine, 
 
 TEXT-BOOK ON THE STEAM ENGINE. By T. M. 
 GOODEVE, M.A., Barrister-at-Law, Author of '*The Principles 
 of Mechanics," '*The Elements of Mechanism," &c. Third 
 Edition. With numerous Illustrations. Crown 8vo, 6j". cloth. 
 "Mr. Goodeve's text-book is a work of which every young engineer should pos- 
 sess himself." — Mining Journal. 
 
 Steam. 
 
 THE SAFE USE OF STEAM : containing Rules for Unpro- 
 fessional Steam Users. By an Engineer. 4th Edition. Sewed, 6</. 
 
 *• If steam-users would but learn this little book by heart, boiler explosions would 
 become sensations by their rarity." — English Mechanic. 
 
 Mechanical Engineering, 
 
 MECHANICAL ENGINEERING : Comprising :^lctalhngy, 
 Moulding, Casting, Forging, Tools, Workshop Machinery, Mecha- 
 nical Manipulation, Manufacture of the Steam Engine, &c. By 
 Francis Cam pin, C.E. i2mo, ^s. cloth boards. 
 
 Works of Constricction, 
 
 MATERIALS AND CONSTRUCTION : a Theoretical and 
 Practical Treatise on the Strains, Designing, and Erection of 
 Works of Construction. By F. Campin,C.E. i2mo. 3^. dd. cl. brds. 
 
 Iron Bridges, Girders, Roofs, &c. 
 
 A TREATISE ON THE APPLICATION OF IRON 
 TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF BRIDGES, GIRDERS, 
 ROOFS, AND OTHER WORKS. By F. Campin, C. E. i2mo, 3s. 
 
 Boiler Constrtiction. 
 
 THE MECHANICAL ENGINEER'S OFFICE BOOK: 
 Boiler Construction. By Nelson Foley, Cardiff, late Assistant 
 Manager Palmer's Engine Works, Jarrow. With 29 full-page 
 Lithographic Diagrams. Folio 21 j. half-bound. [Jus^ published. 
 
6 WORKS IN ENGINEERING, SURVEYING, ETC., 
 
 Oblique Arches. 
 
 A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CONSTRUCTION of 
 OBLIQUE ARCHES. By John Hart. srdEd. Imp. 8vo, Sj-.cloth. 
 
 Oblique Bridges. 
 
 A PRACTICAL and THEORETICAL ESSAY on OBLIQUE 
 BRIDGES, with 13 large PJates. By the late Geo. Watson 
 Buck, M. I. C. E. Third Edition, revised by his Son, J. H. Watson 
 Buck, M.I.C.E. ; and with the addition of Description to Dia- 
 grams for Facilitatirg the Construction of Oblique Bridges, by 
 W. H. Barlow, M.I.C.E. Royal 8vo, 12s. cloth. 
 
 **The standard text book for all engineers regarding skew arches is Mr. Buck's 
 treatise and it would be impossible to consult a better." — Engi7ieer. 
 
 Gas and Gasworks. 
 
 THE CONSTRUCTION OF GASWORKS AND THE 
 MANUFACTURE AND DISTRIBUTION OF COAL-GAS, 
 Originally written by Sa:muel Hughes, CE. Sixth Edition. 
 Re-written and much Enlarged, by William Richards, C.E. 
 With 72 Woodcuts. i2mo, 5^. cloth boards. 
 
 Waterworks for Cities and Towns. 
 
 WATERWORKS for the SUPPLY of CITIES and TOWNS, 
 with a Description of the Principal Geological Formations of Eng- 
 land as influencing Supplies of Water. By S. Hughes. 4J". ()d. cloth. 
 
 Loco7notive-Engine D^dving. 
 
 LOCOMOTIVE-ENGINE DRIVING ; a Practical Manual for 
 Engineers in charge of Locomotive Engines. By Michael 
 Reynolds, M. S.E., formerly Locomotive Inspector L. B. and 
 S. C. R. Fourth Edition, greatly enlarged. Comprising A 
 KEY TO THE LOCOMOTIVE ENGINE. With Illustra- 
 tions and Portrait of Author. Crown 8vo, 4^. dd. cloth. 
 " Mr. Reynolds has supplied a want, and has supplied it well. We can confidently 
 
 recommend the book not only to the practical driver, but to every one who takes an 
 
 interest in the performance of locomotive engines." — Eiigbieer. 
 
 The Enghieer, Fireman, and Engine-Boy. 
 
 THE MODEL LOCOMOTIVE ENGINEER, FIREMAN, 
 AND ENGINE-BOY : comprising a Historical Notice of the 
 Pioneer Locomotive Engines and their Inventors, with a project 
 for the establishment of Certificates of Qualification in the Running 
 Service of Railways. By Michael Reynolds, Author of 
 " Locomotive- Engine Driving." Crown 8vo, 4J. 6d, cloth. 
 " From the technical knowledge of the author it will appeal to the railway man of 
 to-day more forcibly than anything written by Dr. Smiles." — English Mechanic. 
 
 Stationary Enghie Driving. 
 
 STATIONARY ENGINE DRIVING. A Practical Manual for 
 Engineers in Charge of Stationary Engines. By Michael Rey- 
 nolds ("The Engine-Driver's Friend"), Author of ''Locomo- 
 tive-Engine Driving,'' tK:c. With Plates and Woodcuts, and Steel 
 Portrait of James Watt. Crown 8vo, \s, 6d. cloth. 
 
 Engine- D^'iving Life. 
 
 ENGINE-DRIVING LIFE ; or Stirring Adventures and Inci- 
 dents in the Lives of Locomotive Engine-Drivers. By Michael 
 Reynolds. Crown 8vo, 2s. cloth. \jfiist published. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY 
 
 Construction of Iron Beamhyyt^^lldnSs <^ 
 
 IRON AND HEAT ; exhibiting the J^fin^inles Co'^rn^'ii the 
 construction of Iron Beams, Pillars, and^^iwg^ Giroq^ and the 
 Action of Heat in the Smelting Furnace. By^^x^Jw^i^j^'E. 3j-. 
 
 Fire Engineering. - ^ 
 
 FIRES, FIRE-ENGINES, AND FIRE BRIGADES. With 
 a History of Fire-Engines, their Construction, Use, and Manage- 
 ment ; Remarks on Fire- Proof Buildings, and the Preservation of 
 Life from. Fire ; Statistics of the Fire Appliances in English 
 Towns ; Foreign Fire Systems ; Hints on Fire Brigades, &c., &c. 
 By Charles F. T. Young, C.E. With numerous Illustrations, 
 handsomely printed, 544 pp., demy 8vo, i/. 4^. cloth. 
 
 " We can most heartily commend this book." — Engineering. 
 
 ''Mr. Young's book on ' P'lre Engines and Fire Brigades' contains a mass of 
 information, which has been collected from a variety of sources. The subject is so 
 Intensely interesting and useful that it demands consideration." — Building News, 
 
 Trigonometricat Surveying, 
 
 AN OUTLINE OF THE METHOD OF CONDUCTING A 
 TRIGONOMETRICAL SURVEY, for the Formation of Geo- 
 graphical and Topographical Maps and Plans, Military Recon- 
 naissance, Levelling, &c., with the most useful Problems in Geodesy 
 and Practical Astronomy. By Lieut. -Gen. Frome, R.E., late In- 
 spector-General of Fortifications. Fourth Edition, Enlarged, and 
 partly Re-written. By Captain Charles Warren, R.E. With 
 19 Plates and 115 Woodcuts, royal 8vo, 16^. cloth. 
 
 Tables of Curves. 
 
 TABLES OF TANGENTIAL ANGLES and MULTIPLES 
 for setting out Curves from 5 to 200 Radius. By Alexander 
 Beazeley, M. Inst. C.E. Second Edition. Printed on 48 Cards, 
 and sold in a cloth box, waistcoat-pocket size, y, 6d. 
 ** Each table is printed on a small card, which, being placed on the theodolite, leaves 
 the hands free to manipulate the instrument." — Engineer. 
 
 " Very handy ; a man may know that all his day's work must fall on two of these 
 cards, which he puts into his own card-case, and leaves the rest behind." — 
 
 Engineering Fieldwork. lAthencmm, 
 
 THE PRACTICE OF ENGINEERING FIELDWORK, 
 applied to Land and Hydraulic, Hydrographic, and Submarine 
 Surveying and Levelling. Second Edition, revised, with consider- 
 able additions, and a Supplement on WATERWORKS, SEWERS, 
 SEWAGE, and IRRIGATION. By W. Davis Haskoll, C.E. 
 Numerous folding Plates. In i Vol., demy 8vo, i/. 5^., cl. boards. 
 
 Large Tumiel Shafts. 
 
 THE CONSTRUCTION OF LARGE TUNNEL SHAFTS. 
 A Practical and Theoretical Essay. By J. H. Watson Buck, 
 M. Inst. C.E., Resident Engineer, London and North- Western 
 Railway. Illustrated with Folding Plates. Royal 8vo, 12s. cloth. 
 " Many of the methods given are of extreme practical value to the mason, and the 
 observations on the form of arch, the rules for ordering the stone, and the construc- 
 tion of the templates, will be found of considerable use. We commend the book to 
 the engineering profession, and to all who have to build similar shafts." — Buildi7ig 
 News. 
 
 " Will be regarded by civil engineers as of the utmost value, and calculated to save 
 much time and obviate many mistakes." — Colliery Guardiaii, 
 
8 WORKS IN ENGINEERING, SURVEYING, ETC., 
 
 Survey Practice. 
 
 AID TO SURVEY PRACTICE : for Reference in Surveying, 
 Levelling, Setting-out and in Route Surveys of Travellers by Land 
 and Sea. With Tables, Illustrations, and Records. By Lowis 
 D'A. Jackson, A-M.I.C.E. Author of "Hydrauhc Manual and 
 Statistics," &c. Large crown, 8vo, \2s. 6d., cloth. 
 Mr. Jackson has produced a valuable vade-7neann for the surveyor. We can 
 recommend this book as containing an admirable supplement to the teaching of the 
 accomplished surveyor. " — A thoicEtcin. 
 
 " A general text book was wanted, and we are able to speak with confidence of 
 Mr. Jackson's treatise. . . . We cannot recommend to the student who knows 
 something of the mathematical principles of the subject a better course than to fortify 
 his practice in the field under a competent surveyor with a study of Mr. Jackson's 
 useful manual. The field records illustrate every kind of survey, and will be found 
 an essential aid to the student." — Buildhig- News, 
 
 " The author brings to his work a foriunate union of theory and practical expe- 
 rience which, aided by a clear and lucid style of writing, renders the book both a very 
 useful one and very agreeable to read." — Builder. 
 
 Sanitary Work, 
 
 SANITARY WORK IN THE SMALLER TOWNS AND 
 IN VILLAGES. Comprising : — i. Some of the more Common 
 Forms of Nuisance and their Remedies ; 2. Drainage ; 3. Water 
 Supply. By Chas. Slagg, Assoc. Inst. C.E. Crown 8vo, 3^-. cloth. 
 
 *'A very useful book, and may be safely recommended. The author has had 
 practical experience in the works of which he treats." — Builder. 
 
 Locomotives. 
 
 LOCOMOTIVE ENGINES, A Rudimentary Treatise on. Com- 
 prising an Historical Sketch and Description of the Locomotive 
 Engine. By G. D. Dempsey, C.E. With large additions treat- 
 ing of the Modern Locomotive, by D. Kinnear Clark, C.E., 
 M. I.e. E., Author of "Tramways, their Construction and Working," 
 &c., &c. With numerous Illustrations. i2mo. 3^-. 6cZ. cloth boards. 
 "The student cannot fail to profit largely by adopting this as his preliminary text- 
 book." — Iron and Coal Trades Review. 
 
 " Seems a model of what an elementary technical book should be." — Academy. 
 
 Ftiels and their Economy. 
 
 FUEL, its Combustion and Economy ; consisting of an Abridg- 
 ment of "A Treatise on the Combustion of Coal and the Prevention 
 of Smoke." By C. W. Williams, A. I. C.E. With extensive 
 additions on Recent Practice in the Combustion and Economy of 
 Fuel — Coal, Coke, Wood, Peat, Petroleum, &c. ; by D. Kin- 
 near Clark, C.E., M.I. C.E. Second Edition, revised. With 
 numerous Illustrations. i2mo. \s. cloth boards. 
 " Students should buy the book and read it, as one of the most complete and satis- 
 factory treatises on the combustion and economy of fuel to be had." — Engineer. 
 
 Roads and Streets. 
 
 THE CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS AND STREETS. In 
 Two Parts. I. The Art of Constructing Common Roads. By 
 Henry Law, C.E. Revised and Condensed. II. Recent 
 Practice in the Construction of Roads and Streets : including 
 Pavements of Stone, Wood, and Asphalte. By D. Kinnear 
 Clark, C.E., M.T. C.E. Second Edit., revised. i2mo, 5^. cloth. 
 
 ** A book which every borough surveyor and engineer must possess, and which will 
 be of considerable service to architects, builders, and property owners generally. " — 
 Building News. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 9 
 
 SEWING MACHINERY ; being a Practical Manual of the 
 Sewing Machine, comprising its History and Details of its Con- 
 struction, with full Technical Directions for the Adjusting of Sew- 
 ing Machines. By J. W. Urquhart, Author of "Electro 
 Plating: a Practical Manual;" "Electric Light: its Production 
 and Use." With Numerous Illustrations. i2mo, 2s. 6d. cloth 
 boards. 
 
 Field-Book for Engineers, 
 
 THE ENGINEER'S, MINING SURVEYOR'S, and CON- 
 TRACTOR'S FIELD-BOOK. By W. Davis Haskoll, C.E. 
 Consisting of a Series of Tables, with Rules, Explanations of 
 Systems, and Use of Theodolite for Traverse Surveying and Plotting 
 the Work with minute accuracy by means of Straight Edge and Set 
 Square only; Levelling with the Theodolite, Casting out and Re- 
 ducing Levels to Datum, and Plotting Sections in the ordinary 
 manner; Setting out Curves with the Theodolite by Tangential 
 Angles and Multiples with Right and Left-hand Readings of the 
 Instrument; Setting out Curves without Theodolite on the System 
 of Tangential Angles by Sets of Tangents and Offsets; and Earth- 
 work Tables to 80 feet deep, calculated for every 6 inches in depth. 
 With numerous Woodcuts. 4th Edition, enlarged. Cr. 8vo. I2J-. cloth. 
 *' The book is very handy, and the author might have added that the separate tables 
 
 of sines and tangents to every minute will make it useful for many other purposes, the 
 
 genuine traverse tables existing all the same." — Athenceum. 
 
 *' Cannot fail, from its portability and utility, to be extensively patronised by the 
 
 engmeering profession.'' — Mining JoiirJial. 
 
 Earthwork, Measicrement and Calculation of, 
 
 A MANUAL on EARTHWORK. By Alex. J. S. Graham, 
 C.E., Resident Engineer, Forest of Dean Central Railway. With 
 numerous Diagrams. i8mo, 2s, 6d. cloth. 
 " As a really handy book for reference, we know of no work equal to it ; and the 
 railway engineers and others employed in the measurement and calculation of earth- 
 work will find a great amount of practical information very admirably arranged, and 
 available for general or rough estimates, as well as for the more exact calculations 
 required in the engineers' contractor's offices." — Artizan. 
 
 Drawing for Engineers, &c. 
 
 THE WORKMAN'S MANUAL OF ENGINEERING 
 DRAWING. By John Maxton, Instructor in Engineering 
 Drawing, Royal Naval College, Greenwich, formerly of R. S. N. A., 
 South Kensington. Fourth Edition, carefully revised. With upwards 
 of 300 Plates and Diagrams. l2mo, cloth, strongly bound, 4J-. 
 
 " A copy of it should be kept for reference in every drawing office." — Engineering. 
 
 ** Indispensable for teachers of engineering drawing." — Mechanics' Magazine. 
 
 Weales Dictionary of Terms. 
 
 A DICTIONARY of TERMS used in ARCHITECTURE, 
 BUILDING, ENGINEERING, MINING, METALLURGY, 
 ARCHEOLOGY, the FINE ARTS, &c. By John Weale. 
 Fifth Edition, revised by Robert Hunt, F.R.S., Keeper of Mining 
 Records, Editor of *' Ure's Dictionary of Arts." i2mo, 6s, cl. bds. 
 
 " The best small technological dictionary in the language." — Architect. 
 ' The absolute accuracy of a work of this character can only be judged of after 
 extensive consultation, and from our examination it appears very correct and very 
 complete. " — Mining Jourjial. 
 
 Sewing 
 
10 WORKS IN MINING, METALLURGY, ETC., 
 
 MINING, M ETALL URGY, ETC. 
 
 Metalliferous Minerals and Mining, 
 
 A TREATISE ON METALLIFEROUS MINERALS AND 
 MINING. By D.C. Davies, F.G.S., author of "A Treatise on 
 Slate and Slate Quarrying." With numerous wood engravings. 
 Second Edition, revised. Cr. 8vo. \2s, 6d. cloth. 
 " Without question, the most exhaustive and the most practically useful work we 
 have seen ; the amount of information given is enormous, and it is given concisely 
 and intelligibly." — Mining Jo7irnal. 
 
 " The volume is one which no student of mineralogy should be without." — Colliery 
 Gtcardian. 
 
 " The author has gathered together from all available sources avast amount of 
 really useful information. As a history of the present state of mining throughout 
 the world this book has a real value, and it supplies an actual want, for no such infor- 
 mation has hitherto been brought together within such limited space." — Athencetun. 
 
 Slate and Slate Quarrying. 
 
 A TREATISE ON SLATE AND SLATE QUARRYING, 
 Scientific, Practical, and Commercial. By D. C. Davies, F.G.S., 
 Mining Engineer, &c. With numerous Illustrations and Folding 
 Plates. Second Edition, carefully revised. i2mo, 3J. 6(/. cloth boards. 
 " Mr. Davies has written a useful and practical hand-book on an important industry, 
 with all the conditions and details of which he appears familiar." — Engineering. 
 
 " The work is illustrated by actual practice, and is unusually thorough and lucid. 
 . . . Mr. Davies has completed his work with industry and skill." — Builder. 
 
 Metallurgy of Iron, 
 
 A TREATISE ON THE METALLURGY OF IRON : con- 
 taining Outlines of the History of Iron Manufacture, Methods of 
 Assay, and Analyses of Iron Ores, Processes of Manufacture of 
 Iron and Steel, &c. By H. Bauerman, F.G.S., Associate of the 
 Royal School of Mines. With numerous Illustrations. Fourth 
 Edition, revised and much enlarged. i2mo, cloth boards, <^s, 
 ** Has the merit of brevity and conciseness, as to less important points, while all 
 material matters are very fully and thoroughly entered into." — Standard. 
 
 Manual of Mining Tools. 
 
 MINING TOOLS. For the use of Mme Managers, Agents, 
 Mining Students, &c. By William Morgans, Lecturer on Prac- 
 tical Mining at the Bristol School of Mines. Volume of Text. 
 l2mo, 3^. With an Atlas of Plates, containing 235 Illustrations. 
 4to, 6s. Together, 9^. cloth boards. 
 y Students in the Science of Mining, and Overmen, Captains, Managers, and 
 
 Viewers may gain practical knowledge and useful hmts by the study of Mr. 
 
 Morgans' Manual." — Colliery Guardian. 
 
 Mining, Surveying and Valuing, 
 
 THE MINERAL SURVEYOR AND VALUER'S COM- 
 PLETE GUIDE, comprising a Treatise on Improved Mining 
 Surveying, with new Traverse Tables ; and Descriptions of Im- 
 proved Instruments ; also an Exposition of the Correct Principles 
 of Laying out and Valuing Home and Foreign Iron and Coal 
 Mineral Properties. By William Lintern, Mining and Civil 
 Engineer. With four Plates of Diagrams, Plans, &c., i2mo, 4-;. cloth. 
 ** Contains much valuable information given in a small compass, and which, as far 
 as we have tested it, is thoroughly trustworthy." — Iron and Coal Trades Review. 
 
 The above, bound wdth Thoman's Tables. (See page 20.) 
 Price *js. 6d, cloth. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. ii 
 
 Coal and Coal Mining, 
 
 COAL AND COAL MINING : a Rudimentary Treatise on. By 
 Warington W. Smyth, M.A., F.R.S., &c., Chief Inspector 
 of the Mines of the Cro\\Ti. Fifth edition, revised and corrected. 
 i2mo, with numerous Illustations, 45-. cloth boards. 
 ** Every portion of the volume appears to have been prepared with much care, and 
 as an outline is given of every known coal-field in this and other countries, as well as 
 of the two principal methods of working, the book will doubtless interest a very 
 large number of readers." — Mining yoiirnal. 
 
 U^iderground Pttmping Machinery, 
 
 MINE DRAINAGE ; being a Complete and Practical Treatise 
 on Direct- Acting Underground Steam Pumping Machinery, with 
 a Description of a large number of the best known Engines, their 
 General Utility and the Special Sphere of their Action, the Mode 
 of their Application, and their merits'compared with other forms of 
 Pumping Machinery. By Stephen Michell, Joint- Author of "The 
 Cornish System of Mine_Drainage." 8vo, 15J". cloth. [Just published. 
 
 NAVAL ARCHITECTURE, NAVIGATION, ETC. 
 
 4 
 
 Pocket Book f 07^ Naval Architects& Shipbuilders. 
 
 THE NAVAL ARCHITECT'S AND SHIPBUILDER'S 
 POCKET BOOK OF FORMULA, RULES, AND TABLES 
 AND MARINE ENGINEER'S AND SURVEYOR'S HANDY 
 BOOK OF REFERENCE. By Clement Mackrow, M. Inst. 
 N. A., Naval Draughtsman. Second Edition, revised. With 
 numerous Diagrams. Fcap., \2s. 6d., strongly bound in leather. 
 '* Should be used by all who are engaged in the construction or design of vessels." 
 — Engineer. 
 
 ** There is scarcely a subject on which a naval architect or shipbuilder can require 
 to refresh his memory which will not be found within the covers of Mr. Mackrow's 
 book." — EnglisJi Mechanic. 
 
 " Mr. Mackrow has compressed an extraordinary amount of information into this 
 useful volume." — Athencruni. 
 
 Grantham s Iron Ship-Building. 
 
 ON IRON SHIP-BUILDING ; with Practical Examples and 
 Details. Fifth Edition. Imp. 4to, boards, enlarged from 24 to 40 
 Plates (21 quite new), including the latest Examples. Together 
 with separate Text, also considerably enlarged, i2mo, cloth limp. 
 By John Grantham, M. Inst. C.E., &c. 2/. 2s. complete. 
 
 ** Mr. Grantham's work is of great interest. It will, we are confident, command an 
 extensive circulation among shipbuilders in general. By order of the Board of Admi- 
 ralty, the work will form the text-book on which the examination in iron ship-building 
 of candidates for promotion in the dockyards will be mainly based." — Engineering. 
 
 Pocket-Book for Marine Engineers. 
 
 A POCKET-BOOK OF USEFUL TABLES AND FOR- 
 MULA FOR MARINE ENGINEERS. By Frank Proctor, 
 A.LN.A. Second Edition, revised and enlarged. Royal 32mo, 
 leather, gilt edges, with strap, 4^-. 
 
 "A most useful companion to all marine engineers." — United Service Gazette. 
 
 ** Scarcely anything required by a naval engineer appears to have been for- 
 
12 WORKS IN NAVAL ARCHITECTURE, ETC., 
 
 Light'Hottses. 
 
 EUROPEAN LIGHT-HOUSE SYSTEMS ; being a Report of 
 a Tour of Inspection made in 1873. By Major George H. 
 Elliot, Corps of Engineers, U.S.A. Illustrated by 51 En- 
 gravings and 31 Woodcuts in the Text. 8vo, 2\s, cloth. 
 
 Surveying [Land and Marine), 
 
 LAND AND MARINE SURVEYING, in Reference to the 
 Preparation of Plans for Roads and Railways, Canals, Rivers, 
 Tov/ns' Water Supplies, Docks and Harbours ; with Description 
 and Use of Surveying Instruments. By W. Davis Haskoll, C. E. 
 With 14 folding Plates, and numerous Woodcuts. 8vo, 12s. 6d. cloth. 
 
 A most useful and well arranged book for the aid of a student." — Builder. 
 
 Of the utmost practical utility, and may be safely recommended to ail students 
 who aspire to become clean and expert surveyors." — Mining Journal. 
 
 Storms. 
 
 STORMS : their Nature, Classification, and Laws, with the 
 Means of Predicting them by their Embodiments, the Clouds. 
 By William Blasius. Crown 8vo, loj*. dd. cloth boards. 
 
 Rtidimentary Navigation. 
 
 THE SAILOR'S SEA-BOOK: a Rudimentary Treatise on Navi- 
 gation. By James Greenwood, B. A. New and enlarged edition. 
 By W. H. RossER. i2mo, 3^-. cloth boards. 
 
 Mathematical and Nautical Tables, 
 
 MATHEMATICAL TABLES, for Trigonometrical, Astronomical, 
 and Nautical Calculations ; to which is prefixed a Treatise on 
 Logarithms. By Henry Law, C. E. Together with a Series of 
 Tables for Navigation and Nautical Astronomy. By J. R. 
 Young, formerly Professor of Mathematics in Belfast College. 
 New Edition. i2mo, 4^". cloth boards. 
 
 Navigation [Practical)^ with Tables, 
 
 PRACTICAL NAVIGATION : consisting of the Sailor's Sea- 
 Book, by James Greenwood and W. H. Rosser ; together 
 with the requisite Mathematical and Nautical Tables for the Work- 
 ing of the Problems. By Henry Law, C.E., and Professor 
 J. R. Young. Illustrated with numerous Wood Engravings and 
 Coloured Plates. i2mo, ^s, strongly half bound in leather. 
 
 WEALE'S RUDIMENTARY SERIES. 
 
 The following books in Naval Architecture, etc., are published in the 
 above series. 
 
 MASTING, MAST-MAKING, AND RIGGING OF SHIPS. By 
 
 Robert Kipping, N.A. Fourteenth Edition. i2mo, 2s. 6d. cloth. 
 SAILS AND SAIL-MAKING. Tenth Edition, enlarged. By Robert 
 
 Kipping, N.A. Illustrated. i2mo, 3^. cloth boards. 
 NAVAL ARCHITECTURE. By James Peake. Fourth Edition, 
 
 with Plates and Diagrams. i2mo, 45. cloth boards. 
 MARINE ENGINES, AND STEAM VESSELS. By Robert 
 
 Murray, C.E. Seventh Edition. i2mo, 3^. 6d. cloth boards. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 13 
 
 ARCHITECTURE, BUILDING, ETC. 
 Construction. — • — 
 
 THE SCIENCE of BUILDING : An Elementary Treatise on 
 the Principles of Construction. By E. Wyndham Tarn, M.A., 
 Architect. With 58 Wood Engravings. 2nd Edition, revised and 
 enlarged. Crown 8vo, 7^. dd. cloth. 
 " A very valuable book, which we strongly recommend to all students." — Builder, 
 " No architectural student should be without this hand-book." — Architect. 
 
 Villa Ai^chitecture, 
 
 A HANDY BOOK of VILLA ARCHITECTURE ; being a 
 Series of Designs for Villa Residences in various Styles. With 
 Detailed Specifications and Estimates. By C, WiCKES, Architect, 
 Author of "The Spires and Towers of the Mediaeval Churches of Eng- 
 land," &c. 31 Plates, 4to, half morocco, gilt edges, i/. is. 
 Also an Enlarged edition of the above. 61 Plates, with Detailed 
 Specifications, Estimates, &c. 2/. 2s. half morocco. 
 ** The whole of the designs bear evidence of their being the work of an artistic 
 architect, and they will prove very valuable and suggestive." — Bui/din^ News. 
 
 Useful Text- Book for Architects, 
 
 THE ARCHITECT'S GUIDE : Being a Text-book of Useful 
 Information for Architects, Engineers, Surveyors, Contractors, 
 Clerks of Works, &c. By Frederick Rogers. Author of 
 '^Specifications for Practical Architecture," &c. Cr. 8vo, 6s. cloth. 
 
 ** As a text-book of useful information for architects, engineers, surveyors, &c., it 
 would be hard to find a handier or more complete little volume." — Stajuiard. 
 
 Taylor and Cresys Rome. 
 
 THE ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES OF ROME. By 
 the late G. L. Taylor, Esq., F.S.A., and Edward Cresy, Esq. 
 New Edition, Edited by the Rev. Alexander Taylor, M. A. (son 
 of the late G. L. Taylor, Esq.), Chaplain jof Gray's Inn. This is 
 the only book which gives on a large scale, and with the precision 
 of architectural measurement, the principal Monuments of Ancient 
 Rome in plan, elevation, and detail. Large folio, with 130 Plates, 
 half-bound, 3/. 3j-. 
 
 Originally published in two volumes, folio, at 18/. iSi". 
 
 VitriLvins' Architecture. 
 
 THE ARCHITECTURE OF MARCUS VITRUVIUS 
 POLLIO. Translated by Joseph Gwilt, F.S.A., F.R.A.S. 
 Numerous Plates. i2mo, cloth limp, 5^. 
 
 The Young Architect' s Book. 
 
 HINTS TO YOUNG ARCHITECTS. By George Wight- 
 WICK, Architect. New Edition, revised and enlarged. By G. 
 HusKissoN GuiLLAUME, Architect. i2mo, cloth boards, 4^. 
 "Will be found an acquisition to pupils, and a copy ought to be considered as 
 necessary a purchase as a box of instruments." — Architect. 
 
 " A large amount of information, which young architects will do well to acquire, if 
 they wish to succeed in the everyday work of their profession." — Efiglish Mtxhanic, 
 
 Drawing for Builders and Students. 
 
 PRACTICAL RULES ON DRAWING for the OPERATIVE 
 BUILDER and YOUNG STUDENT in ARCHITECTURE. 
 By George Pyne. With 14 Plates, 4to, 7^". 6^/, boards. 
 
J4 WORKS IN ARCHITECTURE, BUILDING, ETC., 
 
 Cement. 
 
 PORTLAND CEMENT FOR USERS. By Henry Faija, 
 A.M., Inst. C.E., with Illustrations. Crown 8vo. 3i-. 6d. cloth. 
 " A useful compendium of results for the practical builder and architect." — Build- 
 ing Neivs. 
 
 The House-Owner's Estimator. 
 
 THE HOUSE-OWNER'S ESTIMATOR ; or, What will it 
 Cost to Build, Alter, or Repair? A Price-Book adapted to the 
 Use of Unprofessional People as well as for the Architectural 
 Surveyor and Builder. By the late James D. Simon, A.R.I.B. A. 
 Edited and Revised by Francis T. W. Miller, A.R.LB.A., 
 Surveyor. Third Edition, Revised. Crown 8vo, 3^. 6^/., cloth. 
 
 " In two years it will repay its cost a hundred times over." — Field. 
 
 ** A very handy book for those who want to know what a house will cost to build, 
 alter, or repair," — English Mecha7iic. 
 
 Boiler and Factory Chimneys. 
 
 BOILER AND FACTORY CHIMNEYS ;'their Draught-power 
 and Stability, with a chapter on Lightning Conductors. By Robert 
 Wilson, C.E. Crown 8vo, 3j". 6^. cloth. 
 
 Civil and Ecclesiastical Building. 
 
 A BOOK ON BUILDING, CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL, 
 Including Church Restoration. By Sir Edmund Beckett, 
 Bart., LL.D., Q.C., F.R.A.S., Chancellor and Vicar-General 
 of York. Author of Clocks and Watches and Bells," &c. 
 Second Edition, i2mo, 5^'. cloth boards. 
 '* A book which is always amusing and nearly always instructive. Sir E. Beckett 
 
 will be read for the raciness of his style. We are able very cordially to recommend 
 
 all persons to read it for themselves. ' — Times. 
 
 *' We commend the book to the thoughtful consideration of all who are interested 
 
 in the buildino^ art." — Builder. 
 
 Architectttre, Ancient and Modern. 
 
 RUDIMENTARY ARCHITECTURE, Ancient and Modem. 
 Consisting of VITRUVIUS, translated by Joseph Gwilt, 
 F.S.A., &c., with 23 fine copper plates; GRECIAN Archi- 
 tecture, by the Earl of Aberdeen ; the ORDERS of 
 Architecture, by W. H. Leeds, Esq. ; The STYLES of Archi- 
 tecture of Various Countries, by T. Talbot Bury ; The 
 PRINCIPLES of DESIGN in Architecture, by E. L. Garbett. 
 In one volume, half-bound (pp. 1,100), copiously illustrated, \2s. 
 Sold separately f in two vols., as follows — 
 ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE. Containing Gwilt's Vitruvius 
 and Aberdeen's Grecian Architecture. Price 6s. half -bound. 
 
 N.B. — T:^^ is the only edition of VITRUVIUS procurable at a 
 moderate price. 
 
 MODERN ARCHITECTURE. Containing the Orders, by Leeds ; 
 The Styles, by Bury ; and Design, by Garbett. ds. half-bound. 
 
 House Painting. 
 
 HOUSE PAINTING, GRAINING, MARBLING, AND 
 SIGN WRITING : a Practical Manual of. With 9 Coloured 
 Plates of Woods and Marbles, and nearly 1 50 Wood Engravings. 
 By Ellis A. Davidson. Third Edition, Revised. i2mo, 6s. cloth. 
 
 Contains a mass of information of use to the amateur and of value to the practical 
 man." — En°;lish Mechajiic. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOqjl*rr55ft^^& CO. 
 
 Plumbing, 
 
 PLUMBING; aText-book to the Prad 
 Plumber. With chapters upon Hous^^ 
 latest Improvements. By W. P. BucH,ta3[^ 
 Third Edition, enlarged, with 300 illustrations, x^.. 
 ** The chapters on house-drainage may be usefully consulte^, 
 but also by engineers and all engaged or interested in house-l^iJaTD 
 
 Handbook of Specifications, 
 
 THE HANDBOOK OF SPECIFICATIONS ; or, Practical 
 Guide to the Architect, Engineer, Surveyor, and Builder, in drawing 
 up Specifications and Contracts for Works and Constructions. 
 Illustrated by Precedents of Buildings actually executed by eminent 
 Architects and Engineers. By Professor Thomas L. Donald- 
 son, M.I.B.A. New Edition, in One large volume, 8vo, with 
 upwards of 1000 pages of text, and 33 Plates, cloth, i/. ws, 6d. 
 ** In this work forty-four specifications of executed works are given. . . . Donald- 
 son's Handbook of Specifications must be bought by all architects." — Builder. 
 
 Specifications fo7^ Practical Architecture, 
 
 SPECIFICATIONS FOR PRACTICAL ARCHITECTURE : 
 A Guide to the Architect, Engineer, Surveyor, and Builder ; with 
 an Essay on the Structure and Science of Modern Buildings. By 
 Frederick Rogers, Architect. 8vo, 15^-. cloth. 
 
 A volume of specifications of a practical character being greatly required, and the 
 old standard work of Alfred Bartholomew being out of print, tlie author, on the basis 
 of that work, has produced the above. — Extract from Preface, 
 
 Desig7iing, Measuring, and Valuing, 
 
 THE STUDENT'S GUIDE to the PRACTICE of MEA- 
 SURINGand VALUING ARTIFICERS' WORKS; containing 
 Directions for taking Dimensions, Abstracting the same, and bringing 
 the Quantities into Bill, with Tables of Constants, and copious 
 Memoranda for the Valuation of Labour and Materials in the re- 
 spective Trades of Bricklayer and Slater, Carpenter and Joiner, 
 Painter and Glazier, Paperhanger, &c. With 43 Plates and Wood- 
 cuts. Originally edited by Edward Dobson, Architect. New 
 Edition, re-written, with Additions on Mensuration and Construc- 
 tion, and useful Tables for facilitating Calculations and Measure- 
 ments. By E. Wyndham Tarn, M.A., 8vo, \os. dd, cloth. 
 
 " Well fulfils the promise of its title-page. Mr. Tarn's additions and revisions have 
 much increased the usefulness of the work." — Eiigineerijis. 
 
 Beaton s Pocket Estimator, 
 
 THE POCKET ESTIMATOR FOR THE BUILDING 
 TRADES, being an easy method of estimating the various parts 
 of a Building collectively, more especially applied to Carpenters' 
 and Joiners' work, priced according to the present value of material 
 and labour. By A. C. Beaton, Author of *' Quantities and 
 Measurements." Second Edition. Waistcoat-pocket size. \s, 6d. 
 
 Beaton s Builders' and Sttrveyors Technical Guide. 
 
 THE POCKET TECHNICAL GUIDE AND MEASURER 
 FOR BUILDERS AND SURVEYORS : containing a Complete 
 Explanation of the Terms used in Building Construction, Memo- 
 randa for Reference, Technical Directions for Measuring Work in 
 all the Building Trades, &c. By A. C. Beaton. \s. 6d. 
 
i6 WORKS IN CARPENTRY, TIMBER, ETC., 
 
 Builder s and Contractor s Price Book, 
 
 LOCK WOOD & CO.'S BUILDER'S AND CONTRACTOR'S 
 PRICE BOOK, containing the latest prices of all kinds of Builders' 
 Materials and Labour, and of all Trades connected with Building, 
 &c., &c. The whole re\dsed and edited by F. T. W. Miller, 
 A. R. I. B. A. Fcap. half-bound, ^r. 
 
 CARPENTRY, TIMBER, ETC. 
 
 « 
 
 Tredgold's Carpentry, new and cheaper Edition, 
 
 THE ELEMENTARY PRINCIPLES OF CARPENTRY : 
 a Treatise on the Pressure and Equilibrium of Timber Framing, the 
 Resistance of Timber, and the Construction of Floors, Arches, 
 Bridges, Roofs, Uniting Iron and Stone with Timber, &c. To which 
 is added an Essay on the Nature and Properties of Timber, &c., 
 with Descriptions of the Kinds of \Yood used in Building ; also 
 numerous Tables of the Scantlings of Timber for different purposes, 
 the Specific Gra^dties of Materials, &c. By Thomas Tredgold, 
 C.E. Edited by Peter Barlow, F.R.S. Fifth Edition, cor- 
 rected and enlarged. AYith 64 Plates, Portrait of the Author, and 
 Woodcuts. 4to, published at 2/. 2J., reduced to i/. 5J". cloth. 
 " Ought to be in every architect's and every builder's library', and those who 
 do not already possess it ought to avail themseh-es of the new issue." — Builder. 
 
 "A work whose monumental excellence must commend it wherever skilful car- 
 pentry is concerned. The Author's principles are rather contirmed than impaired by 
 time. The additional plates are of great intrinsic value." — Buildmg News. 
 
 Grandys Timber Tables, 
 
 THE TIMBER IMPORTER'S, TIMBER MERCHANT'S, 
 and BUILDER'S STANDARD GUIDE. By Richard E. 
 Grandy. 
 
 2nd Edition. Carefully revised and corrected. i2mo, 31. (^d. cloth. 
 
 '* Ever>'thing it pretends to be : built up gradually, it leads one from a forest to a 
 treenail, and throws in, as a makeweight, a host of material concerning bricks, columns, 
 cisterns, &c. — all that the class to whom it appeals requires." — Efiglish Mechanic. 
 
 Timber Freight Book, 
 
 THE TIMBER IMPORTERS' AND SHIPOAYNERS' 
 FREIGHT BOOK : Being a Comprehensive Series of Tables for 
 the Use of Timber Importers, Captains of Ships, Shipbrokers, 
 Builders, and all Dealers in \Yood whatsoever. By William 
 Richardson, Timber Broker. Crown 8vo, 6j. cloth. 
 
 Tables for Packing-Case Makers, 
 
 PACKING-CASE TABLES; showing the number of Superficial 
 Feet in Boxes or Packing- Cases, from six inches square and 
 upwards. By W. Richardson. Oblong 410, 3J. dd, cloth. 
 
 *' Invaluable labour-saving tables." — Ironmonger. 
 
 Coach Biiilding, 
 
 COACH BUILDING: A Practical Treatise, Historical and 
 Descriptive, containing full information of the various Trades and 
 Processes involved, with Hints on the proper keeping of Carriages, 
 (S:c. \Yith 57 Illustrations. By James AY. Burgess. i2mo, 3J"., 
 cloth boards. \Jnst published. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 17 
 
 H or ton's Measurer. 
 
 THE COMPLETE MEASURER; setting forth the Measure- ^ 
 ment of Boards, Glass, &c. ; Unequal-sided, Square-sided, Oc- 
 tagonal-sided, Round Timber and Stone, and Standing Timber. 
 With just allowances for the bark in the respective species of 
 trees, and proper deductions for the waste in hewing the trees, 
 «&c. ; also a Table showing the solidity of hewn or eight-sided 
 timber, or of any octagonal-sided column. By Richard Horton. 
 Third edition, with considerable and valuable additions, l2mo, 
 strongly bound in leather, ^s, 
 
 H or tons Underwood and Woodland Tables. 
 
 TABLES FOR PLANTING AND VALUING UNDER- 
 WOOD AND WOODLAND ; also Lineal, Superficial, Cubical, 
 and Decimal Tables, &c. By R. Horton. i2mo, 2s. leather. 
 
 Nicholson s Carpenter s Gtcide, 
 
 THE CARPENTER'S NEW GUIDE ; or, BOOK of LINES 
 for CARPENTERS : comprising all the Elementary Principles 
 essential for acquiring a knowledge of Carpentiy. Founded on the 
 late Peter Nicholson's standard work. A new Edition, revised 
 by Arthur Ashpitel, F.S.A., together with Practical Rules on 
 Drawing, by George Pyne. With 74 Plates, 4to, i/. is, cloth. 
 
 Dowsing' s Timber Merchant' s Companiojt. 
 
 THE TIMBER MERCHANT'S AND BUILDER'S COM- 
 PANION ; containing New and Copious Tables of the Reduced 
 Weight and Measurement of Deals and Battens, of all sizes, from 
 One to a Thousand Pieces, also the relative Price that each size 
 bears per Lineal Foot to any given Price per Petersburgh Standard 
 Hundred, &c., &c. Also a variety of other valuable information. 
 By William Dowsing, Timber Merchant. Third Edition, Re- 
 vised. Crown 8vo, 3j". cloth. 
 "Everything is as concise and clear as it can possibly be made. There can be no 
 doubt that every timber merchant and builder ought to possess it." — Hull Advertiser. 
 
 Practical Timber Merchant. 
 
 THE PRACTICAL TIMBER MERCHANT, being a Guide 
 for the use of Building Contractors, Surveyors, Builders, &c., 
 comprising useful Tables for all purposes connected with the 
 Timber Trade, Essay on the Strength of Timber, Remarks on the 
 Growth of Timber, &c. By W. Richardson. Fcap. 8vo, y, 6d. cl. 
 
 Woodworking Machinery. 
 
 WOODWORKING MACHINERY ; its Rise, Progress, and 
 Construction. With Hints on the AL^nagement of Saw Mills and 
 the Economical Conversion of Timber. Illustrated with Examples 
 of Recent Designs by leading English, French, and American 
 Engineers. By M. Powis Bale, M.I.M.E. Large crown 8vo, 
 I2s. 6d. cloth. 
 
 Mr. Bale is evidently an expert on the subject, and he has collected so much 
 tnformation that his book is all-sufficient for builders and others engaged in the con- 
 version of timber." — Afchiicct. 
 
 "The most comprehensive compendium of wood-working machinery we have 
 been. The author is a thorough master of his subject." — Building Neivs. 
 
 "It should be in the office of every wood-workuig factory." — E7iglish MccJianic. 
 
i8 
 
 WORKS IN MECHANICS, ETC., 
 
 ^ . MECHANICS, ETC. 
 
 7 ttrning, — ^ — 
 
 LATHE- WORK : a Practical Treatise on the Tools, Appliances, 
 and Processes employed in the Art of Turning. By Paul X. Has- 
 LUCK. With numerous Illustrations drawn by the Author. 
 Crown 8vo, 5.^. cloth. [.Jti'St published. 
 
 " Evidently written from personal experience, and gives a large amount of just 
 that sort of information which beginners at the lathe require. — Builder. 
 
 '* Expounds the art and mystery of the turner in an informative fashion." — Scotsman. 
 " Mr. Hasluck's book will be a boon to amateurs." — Architect. 
 
 Mechanic s Workshop Companion, 
 
 THE OPERATIVE MECHANIC'S WORKSHOP COM- 
 PANION, and THE SCIENTIFIC GENTLEMAN'S PRAC- 
 TICAL ASSISTANT. By W. Templeton. 12th Edit., with 
 Mechanical Tables for Operative Smiths, Millwrights, Engineers, 
 &c. ; and an Extensive Table of Powers and Roots, i2mo, 5^. bound. 
 " Admirably adapted to the wants of a very large class. It has met with great 
 success in the engineering workshop, as we can testify ; and there are a great many 
 men who, in a great measure, owe their rise in life to this little work." — Building News. 
 
 Engineers and Machinist's Assistant, 
 
 THE ENGINEER'S, MILLWRIGHT'S, and MACHINIST'S 
 PRACTICAL ASSISTANT ; comprising a Collection of Useful 
 Tables, Rules, and Data. By Wm. Templeton. i8mo, 2.3. 6d. 
 
 "A more suitable present to an apprentice to any of the mechanical trades could not 
 possibly be made." — Bziilding News. 
 
 Superficial Measurement. 
 
 THE TRADESMAN'S GUIDE TO SUPERFICIAL MEA- 
 SUREMENT. Tables calculated from I to 200 inches in length, 
 by I to 108 inches in breadth. For the use of Architects, Engineers, 
 Timber Merchants, Builders, &c. By J. Hawkings. Fcp. 3J-. dd. cl. 
 
 The High-Pressure Steam Engine, 
 
 THE HIGH-PRESSURE STEAM ENGINE ; an Exposition 
 of its Comparative Merits, and an Essay towards an Improved 
 System of Construction, adapted especially to secure Safety and 
 Economy. By Dr. Ernst Alban. Translated from the German, 
 with Notes, by Dr. Pole, F.R.S. 8vo, i6j'. ^d. cloth. 
 
 Steam Boilers, 
 
 A TREATISE ON STEAM BOILERS : their Strength, Con- 
 struction, and Economical Working. By R. Wilson, C.E. 
 Fifth Edition. i2mo, 6j. cloth. 
 
 *' The best work on boilers which has come under our notice." — Engineering. 
 " The best treatise that has ever been published on steam boilers." — Efigineer. 
 
 Pozuer in Motion, 
 
 POWER IN MOTION: Horse Power, Toothed Wheel Gearing, 
 Long and Short Driving Bands, Angular Forces, &c. By James 
 Armour, C.E. With 73 Diagrams. i2mo, 3^-., cloth. 
 
 Mechanics, 
 
 THE HANDBOOK OF MECHANICS. By Dionysius 
 Lardner, D.C.L. New Edition, Edited and considerably En- 
 larged, by Benjamin Loewy, F.R.A.S., &c., post 8vo, 6j-. cloth. 
 
 *' Studiously popular .... The application of the various branches of physics to 
 the industrial arts is carefully shown." — Mining Journal. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 19 
 
 MATHEMAT ICS, TABLES, ETC. 
 Gregory s Practical Mathematics, 
 
 MATHEMATICS ior PRACTICAL MEN ; being a Common- 
 place Book of Pure and Mixed Mathematics. Designed chiefly 
 for the Use of Civil Engineers, Architects, and Surveyors. Part 1. 
 Pure Mathematics— comprising Arithmetic, Algebra, Geometry, 
 Mensuration, Trigonometry, Conic Sections, Properties of Curves, 
 Part II. Mixed Mathematics — comprising Mechanics in general, 
 Statics, Dynamics, Hydrostatics, Hydrodynamics, Pneumatics, 
 Mechanical Agents, Strength of Materials. With an Appendix of 
 copious Logarithmic and other Tables. By Olinthus Gregory, 
 LL. D. , F.R. A. S. Enlarged by Henry Law, C. E. 4th Edition, 
 revised by Prof. J. R. Young. With 13 Plates. 8vo, i/. ij". cloth. 
 
 '* The engineer or architect will here find ready to his hand, rules for solving nearly 
 every mathematical difficulty that may arise in his practice." — Builder. 
 
 The Metric System. 
 
 A SERIES OF METRIC TABLES, in which the British 
 Standard Measures and Weights are compared with those of the 
 Metric System at present in use on the Continent. By C. H. 
 DowLiNG, C.E. 2nd Edit, revised and enlarged. 8vo, lOJ*. td, cl. 
 ** Their accuracy has been certified by Prof. Airy, Astronomer-Royal." — Builder. 
 
 Inwooct's Tables, greatly enlarged and improved. 
 
 TABLES FOR THE PURCHASING of ESTATES, Freehold, 
 Copyhold, or Leasehold; Annuities, Advowsons, &c., and for the 
 Renewing of Leases held under Cathedral Churches, Colleges, or 
 other corporate bodies ; for Terms of Years certain, and for Lives ; 
 also for Valuing Reversionary Estates, Deferred Annuities, Next 
 Presentations, &c., together with Smart's Five Tables of Compound 
 Interest, and an Extension of the same to Lower and Intermediate 
 Rates.- By William Inwood. 21st edition, with Tables of 
 Logarithms for the more Difficult Computations of the Interest ot 
 Money, Disco ant, &c. By M. Fedor Thoman. i2mo. Sj-. cloth. 
 
 ** Those interested in the purchase and sale of estates, and in the adjustment of 
 compensation cases, as well as in transactions in annuities, life insurances, &c., will 
 find the present edition of eminent service." — Engijieeriiig. 
 
 Geometry for the Architect, Engineer, &c. 
 
 PRACTICAL GEOMETRY, for the Architect, Engineer, and 
 Mechanic. By E. W. Tarn, M. A., Architect. Second Edition, with 
 Appendices on Diagrams of Strains and Isometrical projections. 
 DemySvo, gs. cloth. 
 
 Mathematical Instruments. 
 
 MATHEMATICA.L INSTRUMENTS: Their Constmction, 
 Adjustment, Testing, and Use ; comprising Drawing, Measuring, 
 Optical, Surveying, and Astronomical Instruments. By J. F. 
 Heather, M.A. Enlarged Edition. i2mo, ^s. cloth. 
 
 Weights, Measures, Moneys, &c. 
 
 MEASURES, WEIGHTS, and MONEYS of all NATIONS, 
 and an Analysis of the Christian, Hebrew, and Mahometan 
 Calendars. Entirely New Edition, Revised and Enlarged. By 
 W. S. B. WoOLHOUSE, F.R.A.S. l2mo, 2s, 6d. cloth boards. 
 
20 WORKS IN MATHEMATICS, ETC., 
 
 Compound Interest and Annuities. 
 
 THEORY of COMPOUND INTEREST and ANNUITIES ; 
 with Tables of Logarithms for the more Difficult Computations of 
 Interest, Discount, Annuities, &c., in all their Applications and 
 Uses for Mercantile and State Purposes. By Fedor Thoman, 
 of the Societe Credit Mobilier, Paris. 3rd Edit., i2mo, 4^. 6<:/. cl. 
 " A very powerful work, and the Author has a very remarkable command of his 
 subject." — Professor A. de Morgan. 
 
 h^'on and Metal Trades Calatlator, 
 
 THE IRON AND METAL TRADES' COMPANION: 
 Being a Calculator containing a Series of Tables upon a new and 
 comprehensive plan for expeditiously ascertaining the value of any 
 goods bought or sold by weight, from 15. per cwt. to \\2s. per 
 cwt., and from one farthing per lb. to \s, per lb. Each Table ex- 
 tends from one lb. to 100 tons. ByT. Downie. 396 pp., 9^., leather. 
 " A rnost useful set of tables, and will supply a want, for nothing like them before 
 existed. " — Buildmg Neivs. 
 
 Iron and Steel. 
 
 'IRON AND STEEL': a Work for the Forge, Foundry, 
 Factory, and Office. Containing Information for Ironmasters and 
 their Stocktakers ; Managers of Bar, Rail, Plate, and Sheet Rolling 
 Mills ; Iron and Metal Founders ; Iron Ship and Bridge Builders ; 
 Mechanical, Mining, and Consulting Engineers ; Architects, Builders, 
 &c. By Charles Hoare, Author of *The Slide Rule,' &c. Eighth 
 Edition. With folding Scales of '* Foreign Measures compared 
 with the English Foot," and *' fixed Scales of Squares, Cubes, 
 and Roots, Areas, Decimal Equivalents, &c." Oblong, 32mo, 6j., 
 leather, elastic-band. 
 " For comprehensiveness the book has not its equal." — Iron. 
 
 Comprehensive Weight CalctUator, 
 
 THE WEIGHT CALCULATOR , being a Series, of Tables 
 upon a New and Comprehensive Plan, exhibiting at one Reference 
 the exact Value of any Weight from lib. to 15 tons, at 300 Pro- 
 gressive Rates, from I Penny to 168 Shillings per cwt., and con- 
 taining 186,000 Direct Answers, which, with their Combinations, 
 consisting of a single addition (mostly to be performed at sight), 
 will afford an aggregate of 10,266,000 Answers ; the whole being 
 calculated and designed to ensure Correctness and promote 
 Despatch. By Henry Harben, Accountant, Shefiield. New 
 Edition. Royal 8vo, i/. 5j-., strongly half-bound. 
 
 Comprehensive Discount Guide, 
 
 THE DISCOUNT GUIDE : comprising several Series of Tables 
 for the use of Merchants, Manufacturers, Ironmongers, and others, 
 by which may be ascertained the exact profit arising from any mode 
 of using Discounts, either in the Purchase or Sale of Goods, and 
 the method of either Altering a Rate of Discount, or Advancing a 
 Price, so as to produce, by one operation, a sum that will realise 
 any required profit after allowing one or more Discounts : to which 
 are added Tables of Profit or Advance from i J to 90 per cent., 
 Tables of Discount from I J to 98I per cent., and Tables of Commis- 
 sion, &c., from \ to 10 per cent. By Henry Harben, Accountant, 
 New Edition. Demy 8vo, i/. 5^"., half-bound. 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 21 
 
 SCIENCE AND ART. 
 
 • ♦ 
 
 The Construction of the Organ, 
 
 PRACTICAL ORGAN BUILDING. By W. E. Dickson, 
 M.A., Precentor of Ely Cathedral. Crown 8vo, 5^. cloth. 
 " In many respects the book is the best that has yet appeared on the subject. We 
 cordially recommend it." —English Mechanic. 
 
 "Any practical amateur following the instructions here given might build an 
 organ to his entire satisfaction." — Leeds Mercury . 
 
 Dentistry, 
 
 MECHANICAL DENTISTRY. A Practical Treatise on the 
 Construction of the various kinds of Artificial Dentures. Com- 
 prising also Useful Formulce, Tables, and Receipts for Gold 
 Plate, Clasps, Solders, etc., etc. By Charles Hunter. With 
 numerous Wood Engravings. Crown 8vo, ']s. 6d. cloth. 
 
 "The work is very practical." — Monthly Review of Dental Surgery. 
 
 *'An authoritative treatise We can strongly recommend Mr. Hunter's 
 
 treatise to all students preparing for the profession of dentistry, as well as to every 
 mechanical dentist." — Dublin yo7irnal of Medical Science. [and Circular. 
 
 *' The best book on the subject with which we are acquainted," — Medical Press. 
 
 B7^ewing, 
 
 A HANDBOOK FOR YOUNG BREWERS. By Herbert 
 Edwards Wright, B.A. Crown 8vo, 3.^. 6^/. cloth. 
 
 " A thoroughly scientific treatise in popular language. It is evident that the 
 author has mastered his subject in its scientific aspects." — Mor7iing Advertiser. 
 
 " We would particularly recommend teachers of the art to place it in every pupil's 
 hands, and we feel sure its perusal will be attended with advantage." — Brewer. 
 
 Gold and Go Id- Working. 
 
 THE GOLDSMITH'S HANDBOOK : containing full instrac- 
 tions for the Alloying and. Working of Gold. Including the Art of 
 Alloying, Melting, Reducing, Colouring, Collecting and Refining. 
 The processes of Manipulation, Recovery of Waste, Chemical and 
 Physical Properties of Gold, with a new System of Mixing its 
 Alloys ; Solders, Enamels, and other useful Rules and Recipes, (Sec. 
 By George E. Gee, Goldsmith and Silversmith. Second Edition, 
 considerably enlarged. i2mo, 3J". 6d. cloth boards. 
 ** The best work yet pruned on its subject for a reasonable price. * — Jeweller. 
 " We consider that the trade owes not a little to Mr. Gee, who has in two volumes 
 
 compressed almost the whole of its literature, and we doubt not that many a young 
 
 beginner will owe a part of his future success to a diligent study of the pages which 
 
 are peculiarly well adapted to his use." — Clerkemuell Press. 
 
 Essentially a practical manual, well adapted to the wants of amateurs and 
 
 apprentices, containing trustworthy information that only a practical man can 
 
 supply.' ' — English Mechanic. 
 
 Silver and Silver Working, 
 
 THE SILVERSMITH'S HANDBOOK, containing full In- 
 structions for the Alloying and Working of Silver, including the 
 different modes of refining and melting the metal, its solders, the 
 preparation of imitation alloys, &c. By George E. Gee, 
 Jeweller, &c. i2mo, 3J'. dd. cloth boards. 
 " The chief merit of the work is its practical character. The workers in the trade 
 will speedily discover its merits when they sit down to study it." — E?tglish Mechafiic. 
 
 "This work forms a valuable sequel to the author's Practical Goldjuorker, and 
 supplies a want long felt in the silver ir^dQ."— -Silversmith's Trade Journal. 
 
22 WORKS IN SCIENCE AND ART, ETC., 
 
 Electric Lighting. 
 
 ELECTRIC LIGHT : Its Production and Use^ embodying plain 
 Directions for the Working of Galvanic Batteries, Electric Lamps, 
 and Dynamo-Electric Machines. By J. W. Urquhart, C. E., 
 Author of Electroplating : a Practical Handbook." Edited by 
 F. C. Webb, M.LC.E., M.S.T.E. With 94 Illustrations. 
 Crown 8vo, 7^. 6^/. cloth. 
 " It is the only work at present available, which gives a general but concise history 
 
 of the means (which have been adopted up to the present time in producing the 
 
 electric light." — Metropolitan. 
 
 "An important addition to the literature of the electric light. Students of the 
 
 subject should not fail to read it." — Colliery Guardian. 
 
 Electi'oplating, &c, 
 
 ELECTROPLATING: A Practical Handbook. By J. W. 
 Urquhart, C.E. Crown 8vo, 5^. cloth. 
 
 *' A large amount of thoroughly practical information." — Telegraphic Journal. 
 "An excellent practical manual." — Engineering. 
 
 " The information given appears to be based on direct personal knowledge. . . . 
 Its science is sound, and the style is always cle^v.'' —Athejusian. 
 
 *'Any ordinarily intelligent person may become an adept in electro-deposition 
 with a very little science indeed, and this is the book to show him or her the way.'* 
 — Builder. 
 
 "The vohime is without a rival in its particular sphere." — Desig7i a7id Work. 
 
 Electrotyping, &c. 
 
 ELECTROTYPING : a Practical Manual on the Reproduction 
 and Multiplication of Printing Surfaces and Works of Art by the 
 Electro-deposition of Metals. By J. W. Urquhart, C.E. 
 Crown 8vo, 5^". cloth. [Just published, 
 
 "Will serve as a guide, not only to beginners in the art, but to those who still 
 practise the old and imperfect methods of electrotyping." — Iroii. 
 
 "The book throughout is entirely practical, is lucid and clear in style, and the 
 minutest details are so stated that amateurs will find no difficult^' whatever in follow- 
 ing them out. We have no hesitation in recommending it as a reliable work." — 
 Paper and Pri7iting Trades Journal. 
 
 The Military Sciences. 
 
 AIDE-MEMOIRE to the MILITARY SCIENCES. Framed 
 from Contributions of Officers and others connected with the dif- 
 ferent Services. Originally edited by a Committee of the Corps of 
 Royal Engineers. Second Edition, most carefully revised by an 
 Officer of the Corps, with many additions ; containing nearly 350 
 Engravings and many hundred Woodcuts. 3 vols, royal 8vo, extra 
 cloth boards, and lettered, 4/. \os. 
 
 Field Fortification. 
 
 A TREATISE on FIELD FORTIFICATION, the ATTACK 
 of FORTRESSES, MILITARY MINING, and RECON- 
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 Fortification in the R. M. A., Woolwich. Sixth Edition, crown 
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 Dye- Wares and Colours. 
 
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 For the Use of Dyers, Printers, Drysalters, Brokers, &c. By J, 
 W, Slater. Post 8vo, "js. 6d. cloth, 
 
PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 23 
 
 The Alkali Trade — Sulphuric Acid, &c. 
 
 A MANUAL OF THE ALKALI TRADE, including the 
 Manufacture of Sulphuric Acid, Sulphate of Soda, and Bleaching 
 Powder. By John Lomas, Alkali Manufacturer, Newcastle-upon- 
 Tyne and London. With 232 Illustrations and Working Draw- 
 ings, and containing 386 pages of text. Super-royal 8vo, 
 2/ 12s. 6d. cloth. [yust published. 
 
 This work provides (i) a Complete Handbook for i7itending Alkali and Sulph^iric 
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 of the trade ; (2) a Handy Vohcme which Manufacturers can put into the hands of 
 their Managers and Foremeti as a useful gicide in their daily rounds of ditty. 
 
 Synopsis of Contents. 
 
 Chap. I. Choice of Site and General 
 Plan of Works — II. Sulphuric Acid — 
 III. Recovery of the Nitrogen Com- 
 pounds, and Treatment of Small Pyrites 
 —IV. The Salt Cake Process— V. Legis- I 
 lation upon the. Noxious Vapours Ques- 
 tion — VI, The Hargreaves' and Jones' 
 Processes — VII. The Balling Process — 
 VIII. Lixiviation and Salting Down — 
 
 IX. Carbonating or Finishing — X. Soda 
 Crystals — XI. Refined Alkali — XII. 
 Caustic Soda — XIII. Bi-carbonate of 
 Soda — XIV. Bleaching Powder— XV. 
 I Utilisation of Tank Waste — XVI. General 
 Remarks — Four Appendices, treating of 
 Yields, Sulphuric Acid Calculations, Ane- 
 mometers, and Foreign Legislation upon 
 the Noxious Vapours Question. 
 
 "The author has given the fullest, most practical, and, to all concerned in the 
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 published in any language," — Efigineer. 
 
 " This book is written by a manufacturer for manufacturers. The working details 
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 each improvement explai-ned. Everything which tends to introduce economy into 
 the technical details of this trade receives the fullest attention. The book has been 
 produced with great completeness." — Athcnccum. 
 
 "The author is not one of those clever compilers who, on short notice, will 'read 
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 find here not merely a sound and luminous explanation of the chemical principles of 
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 on the successful conduct of alkali works, but which are generally overlooked by 
 even the most experienced technological authors. This most valuable book, which 
 we trust will be generally appreciated, we must pronounce a credit alike to its author 
 and to the enterprising firm who have undertaken its publication." — Chemical 
 Review. 
 
 Chemical A nalysis. 
 
 THE COMMERCIAL HANDBOOK of CHEMICAL ANA- 
 LYSIS ; or Practical Instructions for the determination of the In- 
 trinsic or Commercial Value of Substances used in Manufactures, 
 in Trades, and in the Arts. By A. Normandy, Author of '* Prac- 
 tical Introduction to Rose's Chemistry," and Editor of Rose's 
 " Treatise on Chemical Analysis." Neiv Edition. Enlarged, and 
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 With numerous Illustrations. Cr. 8vo, \2s. 6d. cloth. 
 
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 Medical Times. 
 
 "Essential to the analysts appointed under the new Act. The most recent results 
 are given, and the work is well edited and carefully written." — Nature. 
 
24 
 
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26 
 
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PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 27 
 
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 RUDIMENTARY TREATISE on CLOCKS, and WATCHES, 
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PUBLISHED BY CROSBY LOCKWOOD & CO. 29 
 
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