t >N ILI ['> ! IJ ] L . \>m n <0> P ' OLI Dl CHARLES Tl LT. Fl Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2012 with funding from Research Library, The Getty Research Institute http://archive.org/details/landscapeillustrOOhorn LANDSCAPE ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE BIBLE, CONSISTING OF VIEWS OF THE MOST REMARKABLE PLACES MENTIONED IN %$t £>ID anl> jprtxj ^esstamnitjs. FROM ORIGINAL SKETCHES TAKEN ON THE SPOT ENGRAVED BY W. AND E. FINDEN. WITH DESCRIPTIONS BT THE REV. THOMAS HARTWELL HORNE, B.D. or si. John's college, Cambridge, author of " an introduction to the studt of the holt scriptures," etc. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. SOLD ALSO BY CHARLES TILT, FLEET STREET. MDCCCXXXVI. London : Printed by A. Spottiswoode, New- Street- Square. INTRODUCTION. While other works of comparatively small value have employed the pencils of the first artists, and have received every sort of embellishment, little comparatively has been done towards illus- trating the most important of all books — the Holy Scriptures. To supply this deficiency, is the design of the present collection of Landscape Illustrations, in which are exhibited nearly one hundred of the most remarkable places mentioned in the Bible, as they actually exist, and very few of which have hitherto been delineated. No expense has been spared in procuring, from the most eminent artists, drawings and engravings which should com- bine the utmost excellence of art, with the most exact and faithful adherence to the original sketches. " If Troy and Thebes, if Athens and Rome, are visited with classic enthusiasm, how much more worthy of awakening the strongest emotions in the mind of a Christian must be the country whose history as far transcends in interest that of every other, as its literature (if we may apply that term to the divine volume) excels in sublimity all the ethics, and philosophy, and poetry, and eloquence of the heathen world." Independently of the interesting associations connected with " Those holy fields, Over whose acres walk'd those blessed feet, Which fourteen [eighteen] hundred years ago were nail'd, For our advantage, on the bitter cross," — (Shakspeare.) the Land of Palestine, as it is well known, abounds in scenes of the most picturesque beauty. Syria comprehends the snowy heights of Lebanon and the majestic ruins of Tadmor and Baalbec. The a 2 iv INTRODUCTION. gigantic temples of Egypt, the desolate plains of Babylon and Nineveh, the ruined cities of Idumea, Moab, and Ammon, and the rocky solitudes of Mount Sinai, — all have afforded subjects most admirably adapted to the artist's pencil. But it is not merely as a production exhibiting the highest im- provements in the art of engraving, that this work is offei'ed to the public. While the descriptions comprise the most accurate and authentic information which could be obtained concerning the scenes so graphically delineated in these volumes, the proprietors indulge the hope that these Landscape Illustrations of the Bible will be found eminently useful, as they comprise views, not only of the places where remarkable events actually took place, but also of those particularly mentioned in the prophecies, which in their present ruined and desolate condition exemplify, to the most minute parti- cular, every tiling that was foretold concerning them in the height of their prosperity. Egypt, Edom, Babylon, Nineveh, Tyre, Jeru- salem, and the Apocalyptic Churches, may especially be adduced in illustration of this remark ; so that in these instances the fulfilment of prophecy is actually set before the eye, while the understanding is assisted and confirmed by the sight. GENERAL SKETCH THE HOLY LAND. Palestine, the country inhabited for more than fifteen hundred years by the posterity of Jacob, was originally nothing more than the Greek name for the land of the Philistines ; a tract of country situated on the coast of the Mediterranean Sea, and inhabited by the Philistines, who migrated from Egypt, and settled there after they had expelled the original inhabitants. This country is men- tioned, both in sacred and in profane history, under various names, but at present it is most commonly known among all professors of the Christian name as the Holy Land : which appellation was first given to it by the prophet Zechariah (ii. 12.), as being the residence of God's peculiar people, the place where his sanctuary was established, and his presence visibly manifested. And this name has become still more applicable to the country, since it was the birth-place of the Redeemer, and the scene of his actions, discourses, and mhacles. It is difficult to fix the precise boundaries of the country in- habited by the Israelites, as its extent varied at different periods of the Jewish history, and as its limits are expressed in Scripture by reference to places, the exact situation of which is now uncertain. In general terms, however, it may be described as lying between the mountains of Lebanon on the north, the Mediterranean on the west, and the deserts of Arabia on the south. Beyond the vi GENERAL SKETCH OF THE HOLY LAND. Jordan it stretched eastward, without any denned limit, into the region which lies between that river and the Euphrates. It was situated therefore between 31° and 33° 30' north latitude, and between 34° 30' and 37° east longitude from Greenwich. The exact dimensions, consequently, are uncertain. The whole length of the land is commonly denoted in the Old Testament by the phrase " from Dan to Beersheba," which places are supposed to have been about one hundred and fifty miles distant from each other. The greatest breadth, from east to west, probably did not exceed eighty miles. Palestine is agreeably diversified with hill and dale : the Scrip- tures frequently mention it as a hilly country. (Exod. xv. 17. Deut. xi. 11. 1 Kings, xx. 23. Ezek. xxxiv. 13, 14.) Two parallel chains of mountains run from north to south, one on each side of the river Jordan, originating in the mountains of Lebanon, which divide Palestine from Svria, and terminating in the mountains of Horeb and Sinai, in Arabia Petrasa. From these branch off a number of minor ridges, intersecting the whole country, and interrupted, here and there, by plains and spacious vallies. The whole region between Jaffa and Rama consists of a succession of gentle elevations and delightful fields and vallies. In Judaea there are mountains of moderate height, uneven and irregular in shape. About and beyond Jericho, the hills are bare and barren, the vallies uncultivated, full of stones, and destitute of verdure. In the north, the mountains, though inferior in height, have a more inviting aspect, being covered with vegetation, and overlook fruitful vallies. The interior of the country is one great valley watered by the river Jordan, which flows from north to south, and empties itself into the Dead Sea. In the western part of the hill country the plains and vallies are numerous, and some of them extensive, but far less productive than the valley of the Jordan. The sea-coast, to which the name of Palestine more properly belongs, is almost entirely level, and not only without rivers, but even destitute of brooks, except such temporary rivulets as are produced by the melting of the snow in winter. Notwith- GENERAL SKETCH OF THE HOLY LAND. Vll standing, the soil is black and rich, and, when the rains are regular, produces plentiful crops of grain and pulse. Of the mountains above alluded to, the principal are Lebanon and Carmel (views of which will be found in the course of this work), Tabor, and the Mount of Olives. Among the rivers, the Jordan is pre-eminent; and of the minor streams, the brooks Kishon and Kedron are memorable in sacred history. They have furnished interesting subjects for the pencil. Various are the expressions occurring in the Scriptures, in order to convey an idea of the fertility of the Holy Land. Thus, in Exod. iii. 8. xiii. 5. xxxiii. 3., and elsewhere, it is termed a " land flowing with milk and honey;" in Deut. iii. 25., a " good land;" in Neh. ix. 25. 35., a " fat land;" in Psalm cvi. 24. and Jer. iii. 19., "a pleasant land;" in Dan. xi. 6. 41., a "glorious land;" and in Exod. xx. 6., the " sdorv of all lands." The accounts of the sacred writers are fully confirmed by the testimonies of antient historians and modern travellers. Thus Tacitus says that " the natives are strong and patient of labour; the climate is dry and sultry; rain is seldom seen, and the soil is rich and fertile. Besides the fruits known in Italy, the palm and balm tree flourish in jjreat luxuriance." * Justin confirms the account of Tacitus, respecting the abundant produce of the Holy Land, its beautiful climate, its palm and fragrant balsam trees, f The elder Pliny has celebrated the palms of Judeeaf ; and the beauty of the country, as well as its large and handsome cities, are celebrated by Ammianus Marcellinus. § The statements of these writers are fully corroborated by the Jewish historian Josephus, who has described his country as exuberant in fertility, richly cultivated and improved, and sustaining an immense population. || The statements of Maundrell, Dr. Shaw, Hasselquist, and other * Taciti Hist., 1. v. c. 26. -f- Justin. Hist. Philippic, 1. xxxvi. c. 3. j Plinii Hist. Nat., 1. xiii. c. 6. § Amm. Marcellin. Hist., 1. xiv. c. 8. jj Josephus de Bell. Jud., 1. iii. c. 3. §§ 2 — I. 1. ii. c. 29. § 6. viii GENERAL SKETCH OF THE HOLY LAND. modern travellers, abundantly confirm the attestations of antient writers. Not to multiply quotations unnecessarily, — Dr. E. D. Clarke thus describes the appearance of the country between Napolose or Sichem and Jerusalem : — " The road was mountainous, rocky, and full of loose stones ; yet the cultivation was every where marvellous : it afforded one of the most striking pictures of human industry which it is possible to behold. The limestone rocks and vallies of Judaea were entirely covered with plantations of figs, vines, and olive trees ; not a single spot seemed to be neglected. The hills, from their bases to their upmost summits, were entirely covered with gardens ; all of these were free from weeds, and in the highest state of agricultural perfection. Even the sides of the most ban-en mountains had been rendered fertile by being divided into terraces, like steps rising one above another, whereon soil had been accumulated with astonishing labour. Under a wise and beneficent government, the produce of the Holy Land would exceed all calculation. Its perennial harvest; the salubrity of its air ; its limpid springs ; its rivers, lakes, and matchless plains ; its hills and vales; — all these, added to the serenity of its climate, prove this land to be indeed ' a field which the Lord hath blessed ' (Gen. xxvii. 27.) : God hath given it of the dew of heaven, and the fatness of the earth, and plenty of corn and wine." * " The whole of the country," says Mr. Buckingham, " on the east of the Jordan, from the Lake of Tiberias in the Dead Sea, and from Oomkais to Heshbon, is fertile in the extreme. The soil is so generally fertile, as to be capable of producing almost any thing that is required; and while the vallies abound with corn fields and olive grounds, the upland slopes of the hills are planted with vines, and the summits of the mountains are clothed with the trees of the coldest regions. The climate is really de- lightful ; a clear, deep blue sky, a pure air, a warm summer in the vallies and plains, a snowy winter on the mountain tops, with all the finest shades of gradation between these two extremes, furnish * Dr. Clarke's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 283—285. GENERAL SKETCH OF THE HOLY LAND. IX every variety of temperature and atmosphere that can be desired by man." * " Sucli being the state of the Holy Land, at least of that part of it which is properly cultivated, we can readily account for the vast population it antiently supported ■ and although this country, generally speaking, by no means corresponds with the statements we have of its former exuberant fertility and population, yet this is no contradiction to the narrative of the sacred writers. The devastations of the Holy Land by the Assyrians, Chaldees, Syrians, Romans, Saracens, the European Crusaders, and Turks, — toge- ther with the oppressions of the inhabitants by the Turks in our own times, — to which are to be added the depredations of robber:-, and the predatory incursions of Arabs, — all concur satisfactorily to account for the present state of this country: and so far is it from contradicting the assertions of the sacred writings, that it confirms their authority: for, in the event of the Israelites proving unfaithful to their covenant engagements to Jehovah, all these judgments and predictions were denounced against them. (Lev. xxvi. 32. Deut. xxix. 22. et seq.) And the exact accomplishment of these prophecies affords a permanent comment on the declaration of the royal Psalmist, that a righteous God ' turneth a fruitful land into barrenness for the wickedness of them that dwell therein.' (Psalm cvii. 34.)" f * Travels among the Arab Tribes, p. 121. f Home's Introduction to the Scriptures, vol. iii. p. 71. VOL. I. CONTENTS OF THE FIRST VOLUME, ARRANGED IN THE ORDER OF THE SEVERAL BOOKS OF SCRIPTURE. Gen. viii. 4. X. 4. xxii. xxiii. 19. xxxvii. 12, xli. 1, Exon. xxiv, 21. Lev. xxvii. 34. Numb. i. 1. Deut. viii. 15. xxxiv. 3. Josh. xi. 17. XV. 5. xix. 29. June. iii. 28. iv. 6. v. 20. vi. 33. 1 Sam. xxiv. 1. 2 Sam. v. 6. 1 Kings vi. ix. 18. xvi. 18. xviii. 19. 2 Kings ii. 19. xiv. 7. Title of the View. Mount Ararat Kittim — Cyprus — Larneca Mount Moriah Hebron - Shechem (Naplous), and Mount Gerizim Egypt — The Nile, and Py- ramids of Ghizeh The Red Sea, and Suez Summit of Mount Sinai Mt. Sinai — Valley in which the Israelites encamped Wilderness of Sinai Jericho - Gate at Baalbec The Dead Sea Ruins of Tyre Fords of the Jordan - - Mount Tabor - River Kishon, and Mt. Car- mel - The Plain of Jezreel - Engedi, and Convent of Santa Saba - Jerusalem — Mount Zion - Jerusalem — Mosqueof Omar — Moriah Tadmor in the Desert Samaria - View from Mount Carmel - Fountain of Elisha Ruins of Selah (Petra) — Temple excavated out of the Rock - By whom sketched. J. Morier, Esq. M. Cassas. Charles Barry, Esq. Mrs. Bracebridge. By whom drawn. * ^f^ A. W. Callcott. 4 J. D. Harding. 86 J. M. W. Turner. 43 D. Roberts. 77 Capt. Fitzmaurice. Capt. Fitzmaurice. 32 F. Catherwood, Esq. J. G. Wilkinson, Esq. F. Catherwood, Esq. Gaily Knight, Esq. Major Felix. Sir A. Edmonstone. Charles Barry, Esq. Rev. Robert Master. J. Bonomi, Esq. Rev. R. Master, and A. Allen, Esq. Capt. Fitzmaurice. Capt. Fitzmaurice. Capt. Fitzmaurice. Charles Barry, Esq. F. Catherwood, Esq. F. Catherwood, Esq. C. R. Wood, Esq. Mrs. Bracebridge and M. Leon de Laborde. Rev. R. Master. Rev. R. Master. C. Stanfield. 88 J. M. W. Turner. 67 J. D. Harding. 74 J. M. W. Turner. 7 J. M. W. Turner. 26 J. M. W. Turner. 47 C. Stanfield. 62 J. M. W. Turner. 10 J. D. Harding. 55 A. W. Callcott. 22 J. D. Harding. 41 Capt. Fitzmaurice. 31 Capt. Fitzmaurice. 81 J. M. W. Turner. G. Bulmer, Esq. David Roberts. C. Stanfield. 24 57 75 6 David Roberts. 90 A. W. Callcott. 17 A. W. Callcott. 8 M. Leon de Laborde. David Roberts. 33 * To assist the Binder in placing the Plates, they have been numbered with a small figure in the right hand corner, at the top. CONTENTS. 2 Chron. ii. 16. iii. 1. xxxii. 33. Ps. lxxxix. 12. Song of Sot ._iv. 15. Eccles. ii. 4. Isa. xix. 1. xxxiii. 9. xxxviii. 24. lxvi. 19. Jek. xviii. 14. xxxi. 15. xlvi. 25. xlix. 15. xlix. 17. 1. 38. Ezek. xxix. 10. xxxii. HOSEA XIV. 5. xiv. 7. Joel iii. 2. iii. 19. Amos i. 4. JoNAH i. 3. Title of the View. Joppa - Jerusalem — Pulpit in the Mosque of Omar Sepulchres of the Sons of David - Summit of Mount Tabor }View from Lebanon, down the Nahr el Kelb Solomon's Pools Egypt — No-Amon — Thebes The Cedars of Lebanon Lebanon, from Bairout Egypt — Phil^e Mount Lebanon, and Baalbec Ramah, and Rachel's Tomb No-Amon — Portico at Kar- nak - - - Ruins of Fetra. No. II. Edom — Entrance to Petra - Babylon - Temple of Isis in Ethiopia - Egypt, a near View of the Pyramids - - - Mr. Lebanon, Convent of St. Antonio - Distant View of the Cedars of Lebanon Valley of Jehoshaphat, - Edom — Arch across the Ra- vine. - Damascus - Jaffa, the anticnt Joppa By whom sketched. Rev. R. Master. By whom drawn. plate J. M. W. Turner. 16 F. Catherwood, Esq. S. Prout. M. De las Casas. Capt. Fitzmaurice. Albert Way, Esq. Charles Barry, Esq. F. Catherwood, Esq. Charles Barry, Esq. Capt. Fitzmaurice. Charles Barry, Esq. Charles Barry, Esq. Rev. R. Master. Major Felix. M. Leon de Laborde. Wm. J. Bankes, Esq. Sir R. Ker Porter. Charles Barky, Esq. Charles Barry, Esq. Charles Barry, Esq. Mrs. Bracebrldge. Rev. R. Master. M. Leon de Laborde. Charles Barry, Esq. Capt. Fitzmaurice. 72 J. D. Harding. 64 Capt. Fitzmaurice. 94 A. W. Callcott. 35 J. M. W. Turner. 34 C. Stanfield. 73 J. D. Harding. 50 C. Stanfield. 27 David Roberts. 28 A. \V. Callcott. 3 .1. M. W. Turner. 49 C. Stanfield. 30 David Roberts. 36 J. D. Har-ding. — J. M. W. Turner. 21 A. \V. Callcott. 20 J. M. W. Turner. 95 J. M. W. Turner. 15 J. D. Harding. 84 David Roberts. 93 C. STANFrELD. 57 A. W. Callcott. 46 Capt. Fitzmaurice. 89 MOUNT ARARAT. FROM THE HILLS ABOVE ERIVAN. Drawn by A. \V. Callcott, from a Sketch made on the spot by J. Moriek, Esq. And the ark rested upon the Mountains of Ararat Gen. viii. 4. This celebrated mountain, on one of the ridges of which Noah's " ark rested in the seventh month, on the seventeenth day of the month," is situated in the greater Armenia; and, according to the calculation of Major Rennel, it lies in 39° 30' north latitude, and 40° 30' east longitude. By the Persians, in the neighbourhood, it is called Kuhi- Nuach, or the Mountain of Noah ; and Turks, Armenians, and Persians, all unite in representing it as the haven of the great ship, which preserved the second father of mankind from the waters of the deluge. It consists of two peaks, which are called the Great and Little Ararat ; and is twelve leagues distant from Erivau, rising majestically from a vast plain. The teernal snows upon its summits occasionally form avalanches, which precipitate themselves down its sides with a sound not unlike that of an earthquake. Various efforts have been made, at different times, by adventurous travellers, to scale these inaccessible mountain pyramids : all, however, were frustrated, except those of Professor Parrot, who, after various fruitless attempts, at length succeeded, in 1830, in overcoming every obstacle ; and ascertained the positive elevation of the larger peak to be 16,200 French feet. It is, therefore, more than 1500 feet loftier than Mont Blanc. He describes the summit as being a circular plain about 160 feet in circumference, united by a gentle descent with a second and less elevated peak, lying towards the east. The whole of the upper region of the mountain, from the height of 12,750 English feet, is covered with perpetual snow and ice. Professor Parrot afterwards ascended the Little Ararat; which he reports to be about 13,100 English feet in height. MOUNT ARARAT. Our view is taken, looking towards the south. The edifice in the foreground is one of the numerous remains of churches and chapels scattered over the whole of Armenia. The figures represent one of the wandering tribes and their camels which are constantly passing south- wards from the mountain districts to the plain, according to the season. The northern camels are highly esteemed as beasts of burthen, on account of their superior strength. * * Sir R. K. Porter's Travels in Georgia, &c. vol. ii. pp. 182 — 184. Rennel's Geography of Herodotus, p. 239. Stuart's Hebrew Chrestomathy, p. 150. Andover Biblical Repository, vol. ii. p. 203. Cheek's Edinburgh Journal, No. 1. new series, Dec. 1830. 1 -- KITTIM — CYPRUS. VIEW OF LARNECA. Drawn by J. D. Harding, from a View taken on the spot by >I. Cassas. The island of Cyprus was known to the Hebrews under the name of Chetim (or Kittim), from Kittim the son of Javan, the son of Japhet, the son of Noah (Gen. x. 4.) ; who, according to the Jewish historian Josephus, in the division of territories, had the first possession of this island. Hence it followed that all islands and maritime places were called Chittim by the Hebrews. Josephus supports this opinion by shewing that Citium is a name corrupted from that of one of the cities of the island, which is derived from the appellation Chetim (or Kittim) borne by the whole island. He adds, that it was called Citius by those who use the language of the Greeks, and has not by the use of that dialect escaped the name of Cethium.* Citium was one of the most antient cities in the island of Cyprus : it was founded by a Phoenician colony, and was celebrated as the birth- place of Zeno, the founder of the Stoic sect of philosophers, and also of the eminent Greek physician Apollonius, the disciple of Hippocrates. At the close of the Persian war, Citium was besieged and captured by the Athenian forces under Cimon, who died here in consequence of a wound which he had received during the siege. It is quite uncertain when this city was destroyed : the abbe Mariti believes that event did not take place later than the beginning of the third century. There is every reason to conclude that the antient city extended from the port all the way to the modern town of Larneca or Larnic, not only from the etymological meaning of its name (which signifies & place of tombs), but especially from the extensive sepulchral remains which occupy a con- siderable portion of the territory on which the modern town is situated. Our view of Larneca is taken from the house of the Venetian consul. * Jewish Antiquities, book i. ch. 7. (al. 6- ) Pt. 22. VIEW OF LARNECA. The surrounding country is perfectly naked and rugged, and its climate is sultry and unwholesome. The consuls for the different European nations reside here, and their houses are fitted up in a handsome style. With the exception of some patches of verdure in what are called the gardens of some of the houses, the territory around is destitute of shade, and the ground is parched with heat. " # * Dr. Cramer's Geographical Description of Asia Minor, vol. ii. pp. 379, 380. Dr. Clarke's Travels, vol. iv. pp. 36 — 42. Carne's Letters from the East, p. 437. MOUNT MORIAH. Drawn by J. M. W. Tcjrner, from a Sketch made on the spot by Chabi.es Barry, Esq. The " Land of Moriah," mentioned in Gen. xxii. 2., is supposed to mean all the mountains, on which and on their hollows Jerusalem was afterwards erected, and these mountains were called " Moriah," or " Vision," because, being high land, they could be seen afar off; but afterwards the name was appropriated to the most elevated part, on which Solomon built his celebrated temple (2 Chron. iii. 1.), on the site of which now stands the mosque of Omar, which no Christian can enter but at the peril of his life. Dr. Richardson, however, whose skill and profession as a physician rendered him generally acceptable, obtained permission to explore this splendid monument of Saracenic magnificence, which forms a prominent object in our engraving. Mount Moriah, strictly so called, is the third of the four hills on which Jerusalem stood in the time of Jesus Christ, according to the minute topographical description of Josephus. This mountain is a rocky limestone hill, steep of ascent on every side except the north, and is surrounded on the other sides by a group of hills, in the form of an amphitheatre. (Psal. cxxv. 2.) On the east it borders the deep valley of Jehoshaphat, through which the Brook Kedron is seen flowing on the right. For a view of the Brook Kedron, see Part I. * # * Barbie du Bocage, Dictionnaire Geographique de la Bible, voce Moria. Josephus's History of the Jewish War, book v. ch. 4. Dr. Richardson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 283—312. Pt. 10. HEBRON. TURKISH MOSQUE ERECTED OVER THE TOMBS OF ABRAHAM AND THE PATRIARCHS. Drawn by D. Roberts, from a Sketch made on the spot by Mrs. BRACEBiuncn:. Hebron is an antient city of Palestine, situated in the heart of the hill- country of Judaea, about twenty-seven miles south-west from Jerusalem. Originally, it was called Kirjath-Arba, or the city of Arba, " which Arba was a great man among the Anakims." (Josh. xiv. 15. J In the vicinity of this place Abraham abode, after he parted with Lot (Gen. xiii. 18.), and bought a field with a cave in which to bury his dead. (Gen. xxiii. 3—20.) Besides Abraham and Sarah, his son Isaac, his grandson Jacob, with their wives Rebekah and Leah, and his great- grandson Joseph, were severally interred here. (Gen. xxiii. 19. xxv. 10. xlix. 29—33. 1. 12, 13.) When the Hebrews invaded Palestine, Hebron was the residence of a king (Josh. xii. 10.) named Hoham; who con- federated with four other Canaanitish kings against Israel ; but they were all discomfited and destroyed by Joshua. (Josh. x. 3, 4. 22 — 27.) After which the city, being taken, was assigned to Caleb (Josh. xiv. 6 — 11.) agreeably to a promise given him by Moses. (Numb. xiii. 30 — 33. xiv. 5. 24.) Subsequently, it was made a city of refuge, and given to the priests. (Josh. xxi. 11. xx. 7.) Afterwards, when David succeeded Saul on the throne of Israel, he selected Hebron for his royal residence, and continued there until Jerusalem was captured from the Jebusites. (2 Sam. ii. 1. v. 4 — 9. 1 Chron. xii. xiii.) On the division of the kingdom under Rehoboam, Hebron fell to the share of the king ofJudah. (2 Chron. xi. 10.) Hebron, Habroun, or, according to the Arabic orthography followed by the moderns, El Hhalil, is a flourishing town, the flat-roofed houses of which are closely jammed together. It contains about four hundred families of Arabs. The hill above it is composed of limestone rock, partially covered with vines ; and its end is clothed with a wood of olives. The hill beyond the mosque, which edifice forms a prominent object in our view, and which has never before been delineated or engraved, is more barren : and in the fore-ground there are masses Pt. 20. of buildings thrown down and scattered in every direction ; this portion of the town having been destroyed a few years since. The inhabitants are engaged in perpetual hostilities with those of Bethlehem, on which account it is less frequently visited by pilgrims. A splendid church was erected over the graves of the patriarchs by the empress Helena : it has long been converted into a Turkish mosque. According to Ali Bey, who visited it in 1807, the ascent to it is by a large and fine stair- case leading to a long gallery, the entrance to which is by a small court. Towards the left is a portico, resting upon square pillars. The vestibule of the temple contains two rooms ; one of which is called the tomb of Abraham, the other that of Sarah. In the body of the church, between two large pillars on the right, is seen a small recess, in which is the sepulchre of Isaac, and in a similar one upon the left is that of his wife. On the opposite side of the court is another vestibule, which has also two rooms, respectively called the tombs of Jacob and his wife: At the extremity of the portico, on the right hand, is a door leading to a sort of long gallery, which still serves for a mosque ; and passing from thence, is observed another room, said to contain the ashes of Joseph. All the sepulchres of the patriarchs are covered with rich carpets of green silk, magnificently embroidered with gold : those of their wives are red, embroidered in like manner. The sultans of Constantinople furnish these carpets, which are renewed from time to time. Ali Bey counted nine, one over the other, upon the sepulchre of Abraham. The rooms also which contain the tombs are covered with rich carpets : the entrance to them is guarded by iron gates, and wooden doors plated with silver, having bolts and padlocks of the same metal. More than a hundred persons are employed in the service of this Mohammedan temple. The population of Hebron is considerable: the inhabitants manufacture glass lamps, which are exported to Egypt. Provisions are abundant, and there is a considerable number of shops. %* Travels of Ali Bey, vol. ii. pp. 232, 233. Manuscript Communication from Mrs. Bracebridge. £ 2 THE TOWN OF SCHECHEM, or SYCHAR (Naplous), under Mount Gerizim, looking south. Drawn by the Hon. Capt. Fitzmaurice, from a Sketch made on the spot by Himself. Shechem, Sichem, or Sychar, as it is variously called in the Scriptures, was one of the oldest cities in Palestine. It was a city in Jacob's time (Gen. xxxiii. 18.), if not in the time of Abraham. (Gen. xii. 6.) When Jacob returned from Mesopotamia, it was in the possession of Hamor, a Hivite prince. (Gen. xxxiii. 19. xxxiv. 2.) On the division of the land among the tribes, this city fell to Ephraim (Josh. xxi. 21.), but it was appropriated to the Levites. Here Joshua assembled the people before his death, and renewed the covenant between them and Jehovah. (Josh, xxiv.) After the death of Gideon, Shechem became a seat of idolatrous worship, the people worshipping Baal-berith there. (Judg. viii. 33. ix. 4. 46.) The people of Shechem resisted the usurpation of Abimelech, who therefore brought an army against it, and " took the city, and slew the people that was therein, and beat down the city, and sowed it with salt." (Judg. ix. 45.) Subsequently, however, it was rebuilt, for it is mentioned by David in Psalm lx. 6. Hither, on the death of Solomon, all Israel came to make Rehoboam king (I Kings xii. 1.), and, on his non-compliance with their demands, ten tribes elected Jeroboam I. for their sovereign, who chose Shechem for his residence, and built [that is, rebuilt] and adorned it (25.). On the return of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity, the mixed race who inhabited Samaria were desirous of assisting in the erection, and of participating in the privileges, of the temple at Jerusalem, but were refused. They therefore built a temple for themselves, on Mount Gerizim, where, under the direction of Manasseh, a Jewish priest, they worshipped in strict observance of the law of Moses. This temple stood two hundred years, and was finally destroyed b. c. 129. In John iv. 5. Shechem is called Sychar : by the Romans it was called Flavia Neapolis, in honour of the emperor Flavius Vespasian : its modern appellation is Napolose, which the Arabs have corrupted into Nablous, or Naplous. Napolose, or Sichem, is romantically situated in a deep valley, between the mountains of Ebal on the left, and Gerizim on the right : our view (which has never before been engraved) is taken, looking from Gerizim Pt. 11. SCHECHEM, OR SYCHAR. towards Ebal. There is a kind of sublime horror in the lofty, craggy, and barren aspect of these two mountains, which seem to face each other with an air of defiance ; especially as they stand contrasted with the rich valley beneath, where the city appears to be embedded on either side in green gardens and extensive olive-grounds, rendered more verdant by the lengthened period of shade which they enjoy from the mountains on each side. Along the valley, in which Sichem stands, Dr. Clarke beheld " a company of Ishmaelites coming from Gilead," as in the days of Reuben and Judah, " with their camels bearing spices, and balm and myrrh," who would gladly have purchased another Joseph of his brethren, and conveyed him as a slave to some Potiphar in Egypt. (Gen. xxxvii. 25. 36.) Upon the surrounding hills flocks and herds were feeding as of old (13.), nor in the simple garb of the shepherds was there any thing to contradict the notions we may entertain of the appearance formerly exhibited by the sons of Jacob. In the vicinity of Sichem travellers are still directed to the sepulchres, in which the remains of Joseph, of Eleazar the high priest, and of Joshua, are said to have been severally deposited. (Josh. xxiv. 29, 30. 32, 33.) But the principal object of veneration, among the inhabitants, is Jacob's Well (John iv. 56.) ; so called, because it was " near to the parcel of ground that Jacob gave to his son Joseph." (John iv. 3. Gen. xlviii. 22.) There is nothing finer in the Holy Land than the view of Naplous from the eminences which surround it : it is, indeed, considered as the finest city in Syria ; but all its beauty is lost upon an European from the narrowness of the streets. There is, however, a very fine bazaar ; and to a stranger nothing is more striking than these Eastern markets. The building is generally of an oblong form ; here it was about two hundred yards long : in the centre is a footway for the foot passengers and camels ; and on each side are broad counters, where the Jews and Turks sit cross-legged, smoking their pipes and drinking coffee, and offering their goods for sale. Trade appears to flourish among the inhabitants of this city : their principal employment is in making soap ; but the manufactures of the town supply a very extended neighbourhood, and they are carried to a great distance upon camels. *»* Dr. Clarke's Travels in Greece, &c. vol. iv. pp. 267 — 260. Alexander's Geo- graphy of the Bible, p. 135. (Philadelphia, 1830.) Jowett's Christian Researches in Syria, p. 193. The Hon. Capt, Fitzmaurice's (unpublished) Cruise to Egypt, Palestine, and Greece, p. 53. > EGYPT. THE RIVER NILE, WITH THE PYRAMIDS OF GHIZEH IN THE DISTANCE. Drawn by C. Stanfield, from a Sketch made on the spot by F. Catherw ood, Esq. The Nile is the only river of Egypt, and is called by way of pre-eminence the river, in Gen. xli. 1. and Exod. i. 22. Some critics have supposed it to be the Sihor or Shihor mentioned in Isa. xxiii. 3. and 1 Chron. xiii. 5. This river takes the name of The Nile only after the junction of the two great streams of which it is composed, viz. The Bahr el Abiad or White River, which rises near the equator, in the Mountains of the Moon, in the interior of Africa, and runs northward till it is joined by the other branch, the Bahr cl Azrek or Blue River, which rises in Abyssinia ; and, after a large circuit to the south-east and south-west, in the course of which it passes through the lake of Dembea, it flows northward to join the White River. This Abyssinian branch has, in modern times, been regarded as the real Nile, although the White River is by far the largest and longest, and was antiently considered as the true Nile. The junction takes place about lat. 16 J north. From this point the river flows in a northerly direc- tion, with the exception of one large bend to the west. It receives the Tacazze, a large stream from Abyssinia, and, after passing through Nubia, it enters Egypt at the cataracts near Syene or Essouan ; which are formed by a chain of rocks stretching east and west. There are three falls, after which the river pursues its course, in still and silent majesty, through the whole length of Egypt. In Lower Egypt it divides into several branches, about forty or fifty miles from the sea-coast, which form with the latter a triangle, the base of which is the sea-coast : and having thus the shape of the Greek letter delta (a), this part of Egypt antiently received the name of the Delta, which it has retained ever since. The whole physical and political existence of Egypt may be said to depend on the Nile; for in this country, where rain is almost unknown, without the Nile, and also without its regular annual inundations, the whole land would be a desert. Its water, after being filtered, is acknowledged by all travellers, antient and modern, to be pecu- liarly sweet and even delicious ; hence we may form some idea of the nature of that afflictive judgment, by which the waters were turned into blood (Exod. vii. 17 — 21.). The inundations of the Nile are caused by regular periodical rains in the countries farther south, around the sources of the river, in March and later. The river begins to rise in Egypt about the middle of June, and continues to increase through the month of July. In August it overflows its banks, and reaches the highest point early in Sep- tember. The whole land is then generally under water. In the beginning of October the inundation still continues ; and it is only towards the end of this month that the stream returns within its banks. From the middle of August till towards the end of October, the whole land of Egypt resembles a vast lake or sea, in which the towns and cities appear as islands. This inundation appears to be referred to, in Amos, viii. 8. and ix. 5. The fertility, which the Nile thus imparts to the soil, is caused not only by its irrigation of the land, but also by the thick slimy mud, which its waters bring down with them and deposit thereon. It is like a coat of rich manure j and the seed being sown immediately upon it, without digging or ploughing, springs up rapidly, grows with luxuriance, and ripens into abundance. By means of canals and trenches, the whole adjacent regions receive the benefit of these floods ; and, in order to raise the water to the high grounds, machines have been used in Egypt from time immemorial. These are chiefly wheels to which baskets are attached : one kind is turned by oxen ; and another smaller sort, by men treading upon them ; to this last mode of raising water there appears to be an allusion in Dent. xi. 10. The history of Egypt abounds with records of distress and famine, caused by the failure of this inundation; and the prophets denounced this calamity as a punishment upon the Egyptians. (Isa. xix. 5, 6. Ezek. xxx. 12.) As the inundations of the Nile are of so much importance to the whole land, columns have ever been erected, on which the beginning and progress of its rise might be observed. These are called Kilometers, that is, Measurers of the Nile. At present there is one on the little island of Roda, opposite to Cairo, which is under the care of the government : it consists of a square well or chamber, in the centre of which is a graduated pillar for the purpose of ascertaining the daily rise of the Nile. This is pro- claimed every morning in the streets of the capital by four criers, to each of whom a portion of the city is assigned. If the inundation reaches the height of twenty-two feet, a rich harvest is expected, because then all the fields have received the requisite irrigation. If it falls short of Pt. 22. THE RIVER NILE. this height, and in proportion as it thus falls short, the land is threatened with want and famine, of which many horrible examples occur in Egyptian history: should the rise of the water exceed twenty-eight feet, a famine is in like manner feared. The opening of the canal, which carries the water to Cairo, generally takes place during the first fortnight in August ; and, the night previous, festivities of all kinds commence on the river in front of its mouth, and are continued until daybreak. The signal for cutting the dam is given by the kiaia or deputy of the pasha ; and money is sparingly thrown into its bed, and eagerly scrambled for by the peasants (sometimes with loss of life by drowning) in the falling stream of the canal. The Hebrews sometimes give the appellation of sea to the Nile as well as to the river Euphrates (Isa. xix. 5. Nahum, iit. 8.) : in this they are borne out by the Arabic writers, who speak of the Nile as a sea. The Nile is also to the present day celebrated for its fish. (Compare Numb. xi. 5. and Isa. xix. 8.) In its waters are found the crocodile or leviathan, and the hippopotamus or behemoth. The Pyramids, which are seen in the back ground of our engraving, are those of Geezeh, Ghizeh, or Djizeh (as the name is variously written), a village about ten miles distant from Cairo, when the Nile is low ; but, when the inundation is at its height, a very circuitous route becomes necessary, and the distance is not less than twenty miles. The two largest are nearly of equal height, but the third is considerably smaller. These extraordinary structures, which are little short of three thousand years old, and which promise to last until the end of time, are supposed to have combined the twofold object of a sepulchre and an observatory. On a first view of them, the traveller feels much disappointed : as they stand in the midst of a Hat and boundless desert, and as there is no elevation near, with which to contrast them, it is not easy to form a concep- tion of their real magnitude, until, after repeated visits and observations, their vast size fills the mind with astonishment. The largest of these pyramids, which on the authority of Herodotus is ascribed to Cheops, covered an area of about 570,000 square feet : but now that it has been stript of its exterior tier of stones, the total length of each face, without the casing, is reduced to 732 feet, and its actual height to 474. The entrance is nearly in the centre; and a passage, descending at an angle of twenty-seven degrees, terminates in an unfinished chamber below the level of the ground. About a hundred feet from the entrance, this passage is joined by an upper one, which ascends at the same gallery, when it runs hori- zontally into what is called the Queen's chamber: but the gallery itself, continuing at an angle of twenty-seven degrees, leads to a larger room called the King's chamber, in which is a sarcophagus of red granite. At the bottom of the gallery itself is the well, by which the workmen descended, after they had closed the lower end of the upper passage with blocks of granite. This pyramid is said to have been opened by the sultan Mamoun, about the year 820. Mr. Wilkinson is of opinion that several chambers still exist, though undiscovered, in the upper part of this pyramid. The style of building in the second pyramid, which bears the name of Cephren, or Cephrenes, king of Egypt, is inferior to that of the first ; the stones, used in its con- struction, being less carefully selected, though united with nearly the same kind of cement. Nor (says Mr. Wilkinson) was all the stone of either pyramid brought from the quarries of the Arabian mountains, but the outer tier or casing was composed of blocks hewn from their compact strata. This casing, part of which still remains on the pyramid of Cephrenes, is in fact merely formed by levelling or planing down the upper angle of the projecting steps, and was consequently commenced from the summit. The passages in this pyramid are very similar to those of the first, but there is no gallery ; and they lead only to one main chamber, in which is a sarcophagus sunk in the floor. This pyramid appears to have had two entrances; an upper one by which the visitor now enters, and another about sixty feet below it, which is still unopened. The actual height of this pyramid is about +39 feet ; and the length of its base, G90 ; but if it were entire, its height would be increased to about 409 feet. This pyramid was explored by the enterprising traveller Bclzoni, to whose work the reader is necessarily referred for an account of his very interesting researches. The third pyramid, which in our engraving blends in with the back ground, bears the name of Myceiinus, Moscheris, or Mecherinus. It has not yet been opened ; and it differs from the other two, being built in almost perpendicular degrees, to which a sloping face has been afterwards added. The outer layers (many of which still remain) were of red granite, of which material the exterior of the lowest row of the second pyramid was also composed, as is evident by the blocks and fragments which lie scattered about its base. * # * Carne's Letters from the East, pp. 102 — 106. Dr. Clarke's Travels, vol. v. pp. 171 — 199. Dr. Richardson's Travels, vol. i. pp. 117 — 144. Belzoni's Travels, vol. i. pp. 397 — 407. 8vo edit. Robinson's Dictionary of the Bible, voce Nile (Boston, Massachusetts, 1831). Mr. Wilkinson's Topography of Thebes, &c. pp.311 — 330. A very interesting account of the excavations of M. Caviglia among the pyramids is given in the Quarterly Review, vol. xix. pp. 397. et seq. THE RED SEA, AND THE PORT OF SUEZ. Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Sketch by J. G. Wilkinson, Esq. " He rebuked the Red Sea also, and it was dried up." Psalm cvi. 9. Exodus, xiv. 21. The Red Sea separates Egypt from Arabia. The name, in Hebrew, signifies the " Weed}- Sea," or the " Sea of Weeds," which appellation it still retains in the Coptic language. It is thus denominated, according to some authors, from the variety of sea-weeds which are said to be visible at low water ; but Mr. Bruce, who had examined its whole extent, states that he never observed a single weed in it. He further remarks, that a narrow gulf, under the immediate influence of monsoons blowing from contrary points during six months in each year, would be too much agitated to produce such vegetables, which are seldom found but in stagnant waters, and still more rarely — if ever — found in salt waters. He is of opinion that this sea takes its name from the large trees or plants of white coral, which bear a perfect resemblance to plants on land. We derive the name " Red Sea" from the Greeks. Most probably this sea was antiently called the " Sea of Edoni," from the neighbouring coast ; and as Edom signifies red in Hebrew, the Greeks, not understanding the meaning of the appellation, translated it (as we have done after them) the Red Sea. This sea is memorable for the miraculous passage over it by the Israelites on their departure from Egypt. They broke up from Rameses in the land of Goshen about the middle of April, and journeyed south- wards below Suez ; when, by means of a strong north-east wind, the Almighty drove out the waters of the sea in such a way, that the Israelites passed over the bed of it on dry ground, while the Egyptians who at- tempted to follow them were drowned by the returning waters. Various antient traditions among the heathen historians attest the reality of the miraculous passage of the Red Sea by the Israelites ; to which we may add, that it is manifest from the text of Moses and of other sacred authors, who have mentioned this miraculous passage, that no other account can be supported, but that which supposes the Hebrews to cross the sea from shore to shore, in a vast space of dry ground, which was left void by the waters at their retiring. (Exod. xiv.) To omit the numerous allusions in the book of Psalms, Isaiah says, God divided the waves before his people, and that he conducted them through the bottom of the abyss, as a horse is led through the midst of a field. (Isa. lxiii. 11, &c.) Habakkuk (iii. 15.) says, that the Lord made himself a road, to drive his chariot and horses across the sea, through the heap of great waters. Lastly, in the apocryphal book of Wisdom (xix. 7, 8. x. 17, 18.) we read, that the dry land appeared all on a sudden, in a place where water stood Pt. 17. THK RED SEA. before ; that a free passage was opened in a moment through the midst of the Red Sea ; and that a green field was seen in the midst of the deep. The Port of Suez stands at the mouth of the canal which formerly united the Red Sea with the Mediterranean, (marked, on the left of our engraving, by a line of stones in the water, which probably are the remains of antient piers or masonr}', ) and upon the northern point of the Red Sea, on a tongue of land, which some commentators have supposed to be " the tongue of the Egyptian Sea" mentioned in Isa. xi. 15., in which place there is an evident allusion to the miraculous passage of the Israelites. The sea runs up nearly to the low wall surrounding the town, which is seen on the right of the same engraving : it is tolerable even as a Turkish town ; and, were it in other hands, it would be delightful. There is a large square, and there is an attempt at regularity of building ; and its situation is described as being beautiful. The old walls of Suez, and the remains which are still left of its harbour, are constructed of fossil shells, testimonies of the deluge. " The Red Sea is about fifteen hundred miles from one extremity to the other: it is visited by a few European vessels, which trade principally to Mocha. The pasha of Egypt maintains a small fleet upon it, for the passage and protection of his troops; and the vessels of the bordering countries are seen skimming along in all direc- tions, laden deep with passengers. The coasts are lined with coral, sometimes of a most beautiful construction ; and when the day is calm, or the night is dark and still, the mariner might think himself transported to some enchanted land, the water is so clear, the coruscations of light are so radiant, and the coral beneath so extensively ramified. But the coasting vessels are often, from the same cause, in extreme danger; and though they are furnished with a false keel, this is not always proof against the violent shocks they have to bear." The vessel represented in the foreground of our engraving is of the kind peculiar to the Red Sea, called a Duo ; and is, perhaps, of the same shape and fashion as those which were launched by Solomon at " Ezion-geber, which is beside Eloth, on the shore of the Red Sea" (2 Kings, ix. 26.), and afterwards by Jehoshaphat, to trade witli Ophir, whose vessels, however, were wrecked at Ezion-geber. (2 Kings, xxii. 4-8.) The materials of these ships were transported overland from Gaza, having been originally brought from Mount Lebanon. This is a common occurrence at the present day on the shores of the Red Sea, where no tree grows. M. Laborde mentions that scarcely a year elapses in which the timbers of vessels may not be seen passing, in single pieces, through the streets of Suez, on their way to the shore, in order to be put together and launched. %* Dr. Shaw's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 92 — 104.329. Carrie's Letters, p. 175. Bruce's Travels, vol. ii. p. 18S. Home's Introduction to the Scriptures, vol. iii. pp. 612, 613. Sir Frederick Henniker's Notes during a Visit to Egypt, &c. pp. 216, 217. Hardv's Notices of the Holy Land, pp. 20, 21. THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT SINAI. Drawn by J. D. Harding, from a Sketch made on the spot by F. Catherwood, Esq. The general features of Mount Sinai having already been described in Parts V. and XI. of this Work, but little remains to be added in illustra- tion of the view which is now submitted to the reader : it represents the summits of this stupendous mountainous range, where the Almighty is believed to have given " the commandments, which the Lord com- manded Moses for the children of Israel." (Levit. xxvii. 34.) There is, however, considerable difficulty in determining the particular spot ho- noured by the Deity for the promulgation of his will to his chosen people. The three highest summits in the Arabian peninsula are Mounts Saint Catherine, Serbal, and Shomar ; and to each of them has been attributed the distinction of having witnessed the promulgation of the decalogue. Our view exhibits what is currently regarded as the summit of Mount Sinai : it is the nearest summit to the convent of Mount Saint Catherine, and is about an hour's fatiguing ascent. A flight of steps (now ruined, but plainly discernible) leads from a spot near the convent quite to the top : these granite steps are taken from the sides of the mountain, and are at least as antient as the foundation of the convent, or perhaps even much earlier. This at least proves that, for many centuries, the spot whence our view is taken, has been considered as the actual summit of this mountain, or Horeb. The prospect which it commands is very extensive and grand, but at the same time of the most desolate descrip- tion. As far as the eye can reach, nothing is to be seen on every side but vast ranges of naked mountains succeeding each other like waves of the sea. Between these rocky chains there are in general only ravines or narrow vallies. Mohammedans, Christians, and Jews equally hold Mount Sinai in the profoundest respect. The ruined building which is seen in our engraving represents the ruins of a Turkish mosque ; and not far from it are the remains of a Greek chapel, in the immediate vicinity of which there is a well of excellent water. In the time of Frescobaldi (1384) this chapel was Pt. 19. THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT SINAI. adorned with paintings and closed with an iron door. When visited by Belon in 1550, and subsequently by Polschitz in 1598, its gate or door was still standing : but already had the pilgrims to the Holy Land covered its walls with their names and with common-place reflections. In 1610 Sandys found the whole a ruin. * # * Manuscript Communication from F. Catherwood, Esq. Leon de Laborde, Voyage de l'Arabie Petre'e, p. 68. An accurate English translation of M. Laborde's splendid but costly sketches of his journey through Arabia Petre'e to Mount Sinai and the excavated city of Petra (with the plates carefully re-engraved) has been published bv Mr. Murray (the publisher of this work), in a form and at a price which render it easily accessible to the majority of readers. - MOUNT SINAI. The Valley in which the Children of Israel are supposed to have encamped. Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Sketch made on the spot by Gai.lt Knight, Esq. The upper region of the mountainous range, in the peninsula of Arabia, which is collectively termed Sinai, forms an irregular circle of thirty or forty miles in diameter ; it possesses numerous sources of water, a temperate climate, and a soil capable of supporting animal and vegetable nature. This, therefore, was the part of the peninsula best adapted to the residence of nearly a year, during which the Israelites were numbered, and received their laws from the Most High. This tract is thus described by Mr. Burckhardt, who visited it in the spring of 1816 : — " The upper nucleus of Sinai, composed almost entirely of granite, forms a rocky wilderness of an irregular circular shape, intersected by many narrow valleys, and from thirty to forty miles in diameter. It contains the highest mountains of the peninsula, whose shaggy and pointed peaks, and steep and shattered sides, render it clearly distinguishable from all the rest of the country in view. It is upon the highest region of the peninsula, that the fertile valleys are found, which produce fruit trees : they are principally to the west and south-west of the convent [of Mount Sinai], at three or four hours distant. Water, too, is always found in plenty in this district ; on which account it is the place of refuge of all the Bedouins, when the low country is parched up."- He therefore thinks that this upper country, or " wilderness," is exclusively the Desert of Sinai, so often mentioned in the account of the wanderings of the Israelites (compare Numb. i. 1. and xxxiii. 15. with Exod. xix. 1, &c) In approaching the elevated region from the north-west, Burckhardt writes : — " We now approached the central summits of Mount Sinai, which we had in view for several days. Abrupt cliffs of granite, from six to eight hundred feet in height, whose surface is blackened by the sun, surround the avenues leading to the elevated region to which the name of Sinai is specifically applied. These cliffs inclose the holy mountain on three sides. At the end of three hours we entered these cliffs by a narrow defile about forty feet in breadth, with perpendicular granite rocks on Pt. 11. MOUNT SINAI. both sides. The ground is covered with sand and pebbles, brought down by the torrent which rushes from the upper region in the winter time." To the opinion of this very intelligent and judicious traveller we may well yield our assent, especially as it was formed from personal observation made on the spot with great patience and accuracy. In this wilderness the Israelites remained during all the transactions recorded in Exod. xix. to the end, in Leviticus, and in the first nine chapters of the book of Numbers. In Num. x. 11. it is recorded, that " on the twentieth day of the second month, in the second year, the cloud was taken up, and the children of Israel took their journey out of the wilderness of Sinai." Their sojourn at Sinai may therefore be counted from the fifteenth day of June to the twentieth of May following ; a period of eleven months and five days, according to our mode of reckoning : but, as they reckoned by lunar months, the whole interval was, in fact, something less than eleven of our months. * # * Burckhardt's Travels in Syria, &c. pp. 673, &c. Biblical Repository ( Andover, Massachusetts), vol. ii. p. 771. THE WILDERNESS OF SINAI. Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Drawing made on the spot by Major Felix. 11 That great and terrible wilderness, where there was no water." Deut. viii. 15. Sinai is a mountainous range of Arabia Petrasa, in the Peninsula formed by the two northern arms of the Red Sea : it is rendered me- morable as the place where the law was given to the Israelites by Moses (Exod. xix. xx.), and it comprehends many peaks, which are almost entirely composed of granite, forming a rocky wilderness, of an irregular circular shape, intersected by many narrow vallies, and from thirty to forty miles in diameter. It has two principal elevations, by the Arabs called Gebel Mousa, or the Mountain of Moses, and Gebel Katerin, or the Mountain of St. Catherine, which are generally identified with Sinai and Horeb, though little dependence is to be placed upon local tradition. Mount Sinai, strictly so called, is a long narrow hill, to the west and south-west of which lies a narrow valley, which Dr. Pococke terms the Vale of Jah, or the Vale of God : this he considers to be the vale or plain of Rephidim, where the Israelites encamped when they came out of the Desert of Sin. Here is shown the rock exhibited in our engraving, which Moses is traditionally said to have struck, wheii the waters miraculously gushed forth, and supplied the thirsty and fainting Israelites. (Exod. xvii. 1 7. Numb. xx. 7 — 11.) From its hardness, it is appropriately termed a " rock of flint," in Deut. viii. 15. Dr. Shaw states it to be about six yards square : but Dr. Pococke (with whose calculations Mr. Came very nearly agrees) says that it is a beautiful red granite stone, about fifteen feet long, ten feet wide, and about twelve feet high. It lies, tottering and loose, near the middle of the valley, which is here about two hundred yards broad ; and it seems to have been formerly a part or cliff of Mount Sinai, which hangs in a variety of precipices over all this plain. There are four or five fissures, one above the other, on the face of the rock, and each of them is about a foot and a half long, and a few inches deep. What is very remarkable, they run along the breadth of the rock, and are not rent downwards : they are more than a foot asunder, and there is a channel worn between them by the gushing of the waters. To the miraculous supply of the perishing Israelites, the Psalmist thus Pt.5. THE WILDERNESS OF SINAI. alludes: — " He clave the rocks in the wilderness, and gave them drink as out of the great depths. He brought streams also out of the rock, and caused waters to run down like rivers." (Psal. lxxviii. 15, 16.) " He opened the rock and the waters gushed out : they ran in the dry- places like a river." (Psal. cvii. 41.) Neither art nor chance, Dr. Shaw remarks, could be concerned in the contrivance, inasmuch as every circumstance points out to us a miracle : and it never fails to produce the greatest seriousness and attention in all who behold it. That learned and accurate traveller was in danger of being stoned by his Arab guards for attempting to break off a corner of it. The Arabs call this rock of Meribah the Stone of Moses : it is greatly venerated by the Bedouins who put grass into the fissures above de- scribed, as offerings to the memory of Moses, in the same manner as they place grass upon the tombs of their saints, because grass is to them the most precious gift of nature, and that upon which their existence chiefly depends. They also bring hither their female camels : for they believe that, by making the animal couch down before the rock, while they recite some prayers, and by putting fresh grass into the fissures of the stone, the camels will become fruitful, and yield an abundance of milk. This superstition is encouraged by the monks, who rejoice to see the Mohammedan Bedouins venerating the same object with themselves. When Mr. Came visited this spot, a few years since, two of the holes were filled with reeds for this purpose. *„* Pococke's Description of the East, vol. i. pp. 143, 144. Shaw's Travels, vol. i. pp. 108 — 110. Burckhardt's Tour in Syria, &c. pp.578 — 580. Carne's Letters, pp. 198,199. JERICHO. and disordered, as if the earth had here suffered some great convulsion. On the left hand, looking down a steep valley, as he passed along, he saw ruins of small cells and cottages, the former habitations of hermits who had retired thither for penance and mortification ; for which purpose a more comfortless and abandoned place could not be found in the whole earth. The particular mountainous precipice, whence " all the kingdoms of the world and the glory of them" were shown to Jesus Christ, is, as the evangelist describes it, " an exceeding high mountain" (Matt. iv. 8.), and in its ascent not only difficult but dangerous : it has a small chapel at the top, and another about half way down, founded on a projecting part of the rock. Near the latter are several caves and holes, excavated by the hermits, in which they kept their fast of Lent in imitation of that of Jesus Christ. As Jericho was one of the cities appropriated to the residence of the priests and Levites (twelve thousand of whom are said to have dwelt there in the time of Jesus Christ), and as the way thither lay through the rocky desert, or wilderness of Jericho, the road antiently was, as it still is, greatly infested by robbers, who insult, stop, and plunder the traveller on his journey. A country more favourable to the attacks of predatory banditti, and caves better adapted for concealment than those presented on this road, can scarcely be imagined. These circumstances mark the admirable propriety with which our Lord made it the scene of his beautiful and instructive narrative of the benevolent Samaritan. (Luke, x. 30 — 37.) In this gorge Sir Frederick Henniker was attacked and severely wounded : a better place for such an attack could not be found, as half a dozen rifles would have sufficed to discomfit a host. " The whole of this road," says Mr. Buckingham, " from Jerusalem to the Jordan, is held to be the most dangerous about Palestine ; and indeed, in this portion of it, the very aspect of the scenery is sufficient, on the one hand, to tempt to robbery and murder, and, on the other, to occasion a dread of it in those who pass that way One must be amid these rude and gloomy solitudes, surrounded by an armed band, and feel the impatience of the traveller, who rushes on to catch a new view at every pass and turn ; one must be alarmed at the very tramp of the horses' hoofs rebounding through the caverned rocks, and at the savage shouts of the footmen, scarcely less loud than the echoing thunder produced by the discharge of their pieces in the valleys ; one must witness all this upon the spot, before the full force and beauty of the admirable story of the good Samaritan can be perceived. Here pillage, wounds, and death, would be accompanied with double terror, from the frightful aspect of every thing around. Here the unfeeling act of passing by a fellow- creature in distress, as the priest and Levite are said to have done, strikes one with horror as an act almost more than inhuman. And here, too, the compassion of the good Samaritan is doubly virtuous, from the purity of the motive which must have led to it, in a spot where no eyes were fixed upon him to draw forth the performance of any duty, and from the bravery which was necessary to admit of a man's exposing himself by such delay to the risk of a similar fate to that from which he was endeavouring to rescue his fellow-creature." * jlt * Maundrell's Travels, pp. 106, 107. Dr. Shaw's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 36, 37. Carne's Letters from the East, pp.321, 322. Dr. Richardson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 395, 396. Russell's Palestine, pp. 256 — 262. Sir F. Henniker's Notes during a Visit to Egypt, &c. pp. 289 — 291. Buckingham's Travels in Palestine, pp. 292, 293. JERICHO. Drawn by J. M. W. Tcrxer, from a Sketch made on the spot by Sir A. Edmoxdstoxe. Jericho, " the city of palm trees" (Deut. xxxiv. 3.), derives all its importance from history. Though now only a miserable village, con- taining about thirty wretched cottages, which are inhabited by half-naked Arabs, it was one of the oldest cities in Palestine, and was the first place reduced by the Israelites on entering the Holy Land. It was rased to the ground by Joshua, who denounced a curse on the person who should rebuild it. (Josh. vi. 20. 26.) Five hundred and thirty years afterwards this malediction was literally fulfilled upon Hiel of Bethel (1 Kings xvi. 3-1.), who rebuilt the city, which soon appears to have attained a con- siderable degree of importance. There was a school of the prophets here in the days of Elijah and Elisha, both of whom seem to have resided much here. In the vicinity of Jericho there was a large but unwholesome spring, which rendered the soil unfruitful, until it was cured by the prophet Elisha. (2 Kings, ii. 21.) Of this spring or fountain, since known as the " Fountain of Elisha," a view and description will be found in Part III. of this work. In Ezra, ii. 34-. and Neh. vii. 36. we read, that three hundred and forty-five of the inhabitants of Jericho, who had been carried into captivity, returned to Judsa with Zerubbabel. and in Xeh. iii. 2. we find them at work upon the walls of Jerusalem. Jericho appears to have continued in a flourishing condition during several centuries. In the time of our Saviour it was inferior only to Jerusalem in the number and splendour of its public edifices, and was one of the royal residences of Herod misnamed the Great, who died there. It was situated in the hollow or bottom of the extensive plain called the " Great Plain," (which circumstance marks the propriety of the expression " going down to Jerusalem," in Luke, x. 30.) and is about nineteen miles distant from the capital of Judaea, In the last war of the Romans with the Jews, Jericho was sacked by Vespasian, and its inhabitants were put to the sword. Subsequently re-established by the emperor Hadrian, A. D. 138, it was doomed at no very distant period to experience new disasters : again was it repaired by the Christians, who made it an episcopal see ; but in the twelfth century it was captured by the Mohammedans, and has not since emerged from its ruins. Of all its magnificent buildings there remains part of only one tower, the dwelling of the governor of the district, which is seen on the left of our engraving, and which is traditionally said to have been the dwelling of Zaccheus the publican (who dwelt at Jericho, Luke, xix. 1, 2.), together with a quantity of rubbish which is supposed to mark the line of its antient walls. The sheds roughly constructed of boughs, which are seen in the foreground of our view, are the rude habitations of the wretched Arab inhabitants, who were there at the time our view was taken. The steep mountainous ridge in the background of our engraving is called the Mountain of Quarantania, and is supposed to have been the scene of our Saviour's temptation. (Matt. iv. 1 — 10.) Here Dr. Shaw is of opinion that the two spies of Joshua concealed themselves. (Josh. ii. 16.) This mountain commands a distinct and delightful view of the mountains of Arabia, of the Dead Sea, and of the extensive and fertile plain of Jericho. According to Mr. Maundrell, Quarantania is a most miserable, dry, and barren place, consisting of rockv mountains so torn Pt 12. GATE AT BAALBEC (baal-gad, or baal-hamon). Drawn by C. Stanfield, from a Sketch made on the spot by Charles Barry, Esq. Baal-Gad was situated " in the valley of Lebanon, under Mount Hermon" (Josh. xi. 17. xii. 7.), and was among the places unconquered by the Israelites at the death of Joshua (xiii. 5.). By the Greeks and Romans it was called Heliopolis, and by the modern natives Baalbec, both which names mean " the city of the sun." It was, perhaps, the place called Baal-Hamon in Sol. Song, viii. 11., and also Baalath in 1 Kings, ix. 18. The inhabitants of this country, — Mohammedans, Jews, and Christians, — all confidently believe that Baalbec was built by Solomon. Certain it is, that no Oriental monarch could indulge his favourite pleasures in a more luxurious retirement than among the streams and shades of Baalbec. The magnificent Gate delineated in our engraving is the entrance to the Temple of the Sun, of which, and of the other remains of autient art at Baalbec, a descriptive account will be found in Part VII. of this work. It is constructed of marble, and the architrave is enriched with arabesque sculpture in high relief, and of exquisite workmanship. One band is composed of flowers and ears of corn ; and another, of vine-leaves, with male and female dancers, and other figures, within the tendrils. On the underside of the lintel is a fine example of the Roman eagle in high relief, with genii on each side holding festoons of flowers hanging from the eagle's beak. The interior of the temple, seen through the doorway, is an exceedingly florid specimen of the Corinthian style of architecture. Engaged columns are in each wall, with intervening niches for statues ; and at the entrance-end are indications of an arcade, forming a gallery. Pt. 16. - THE DEAD SEA, WITH THE JIOUTH OF THE JORDAN, AND THE MOUNTAINS OF MOAE IN THE DISTANCE. Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Sketch made on the spot by the Rev. Robert M. Master. The celebrated lake, which occupies the site of Sodom and Gomorrah, is variously called in Scripture the Sea of the Plain (Deut. iii. 17. iv. 49.), being situated in a valley with a plain lying to the south of it, where those cities once flourished, with the other cities of the plain ; the Salt Sea (Deut. iii. 17. Josh. xv. 5.), from the extremely saline and bitter taste of its waters ; the Salt Sea eastward (Num. xxxiv. 3.) and the East Sea (Ezek. xlvii. 18. Joel ii. 20.), from its situation relatively to Judaea. At present it is called Bahret-Lout, or the Sea of Lot. By Josephus and other writers, it was called the Lake Asphal- tites, from the abundance of bitumen found in it. The most familiar name, the Dead Sea, is in allusion to the antient tradition, erroneously but generally received, that no animal can exist in its stagnant and hydro- sulphuretted waters, which, though they look remarkably clear and pure, are nauseous in the extreme. A chemical analysis of one hundred grains of the water gave the following results as to the substances, and propor- tions of them, which it holds in solution : — Muriate oflime - 3-920 Soda - - 10-360 Magnesia -' - 10-246 Sulphate of lime -054 From this analysis it will readily be concluded that such a liquid must be equally salt and bitter. The acrid saltness of its waters, indeed, is much greater than that of the sea : and the land which surrounds this lake, being equally impregnated with that saltness, refuses to produce any plants, except a few stunted thorns, which wear the brown garb of the desert. Bodies sink or float upon it in proportion to their specific gravity : and although the water is so dense as to be favourable to swimmers, no security is found against the common accident of drowning. This sea, when viewed from the spot where the rapid Jordan daily discharges into it 6,090,000 tons of muddy water, takes a south-easterly direction visible for ten or fifteen miles, when it disappears in a curve towards the east. In our engraving, the course of the Jordan is distinctly exhibited, and contiguous to it appears the city of Jericho. The expanse of the Dead Sea, at the embouchure of the Jordan, has been supposed not to exceed THE DEAD SEA. five or six miles ; though the mountains, which skirt each side of the valley of the Dead Sea, are apparently separated by a distance of eight miles. The mountains on the Judaaan side_ (one of which is exhibited on the right of our view) are lower than the Mountains of Moab, on the Arabian side, which form a prominent feature in the distance. The latter chain at its southern extremity is said to consist of dark granite, and of various colours. The shores at the northern extremity are remark- ably flat, and strewed with vast quantities of driftwood, white and bleached by the sun, which is brought down by the swelling of Jordan. It is not certainly known whether there has been any visible increase or decrease in the waters of the Dead Sea. Some have imagined that it finds a subterraneous passage to the Mediterranean, or that there is a considerable suction in the plain which forms its western boundary ; but Dr. Shaw has long since accounted for it, by the quantity which is daily evaporated. As the Dead Sea advances towards the south, it evidently increases in breadth. Its dimensions have been variously estimated by different tra- vellers. Pliny states its total length to be one hundred miles, and its greatest breadth twenty-five : the Jewish historian Josephus, who mea- sured this lake, found that in length it extended about five hundred and eighty stadia, and in breadth one hundred and fifty ; according to our standard, somewhat more than seventy miles by nineteen. With this measurement nearly coincides the estimate of Dr. Shaw, who appears to have ascertained its dimensions with accuracy, and who computes its length to be about seventy-two English miles, and its greatest breadth about nineteen. Whoever has once seen the Dead Sea, will ever after have its aspect impressed upon his memory : it is in truth a gloomy and fearful spectacle. The precipices, in general, descend abruptly into the lake, the surface of which is generally unruffled, from the hollow of the basin (in which it lies) scarcely admitting the free passage necessary for a strong breeze. It is, however, for the same reason, subject to whirl- winds or squalls of short duration. A profound silence, awful as death, hangs over the lake : its shores are rarely visited by any footstep, save that of the wild Arab ; and its desolate but majestic features are well suited to the tales related concerning it by the inhabitants of the country, who hold it in superstitious dread, and speak of it with terror. *#* The above description has been condensed from the researches of Buckingham, Carne, Chateaubriand, Clarke, Jolliffe, Irby and Mangles, Maundrell, Russell, Shaw, Wilson, and the anonymous author of " Three Weeks in Palestine." = RUINS OF TYRE. Drawn by J. D. Harding, partly from a Sketch made on the spot by J. Bonomi, Esq., and partly from a View given in the French Work of Las Casas. Tyre was the most celebrated city of Phoenicia, and the theatre of an immense com- merce and navigation. Tyre was twofold, insular and continental : Tyre on the island succeeded to the more antient city on the continent, which was called Puke-Tyrus, or Old Tyre. Though inferior to Sidon in point of antiquity, Palae-Tyrus soon rose above it, and became the richest mart of the antient world. In Josh. xix. 29. it is called the " strong city, Tyre," and in 2 Sam. xxiv. 7. the " strong hold of Tyre." In reference to its antiquity, Isaiah (xxiii. 7.) calls it " a city whose antiquity is of antient days." From Hiram, king of Tyre, Solomon obtained timber, gold, and workmen for the building of the temple. Hiram also sent his ships with those of Solomon to Ophir and Tarshish. (1 Kings, ix. 10 — 14. 27. x. 22.) In later times the friendship of the Tyrians and Jews seems to have been interrupted, whence the prophets Amos and Joel speak of Tyre as of a hostile city. (Amos, i. 9, 10. Joel, iii. 4.) At the time of the Assyrian invasion under Shalmaneser, Old Tyre had arrived to such a pitch of opulence and splendour, that Isaiah speaks of it as the "joyous city the crowning city, whose merchants are princes, whose traffickers are the honourable of the earth." (xxiii. 7, 8.) It was afterwards taken by Nebuchadnezzar (whose forces it withstood for thirteen years) ; but not until the Tyrians had removed their effects to the insular town, and left nothing but the bare walls to the victor, by whom they were demolished. The fate of Tyre is the subject of numerous predictions. See particularly Isa. xxiii. Jer. xxv. Ezek.xxvi — xxviii. Amos, i. 9, 10. and Zech. ix. 1 — 8. While this mart of nations was in the height of its opulence and power, and at least one hundred and twenty-five years before the destruction of Old Tjre, Isaiah pro- nounced its irrevocable fall ; and as insular Tyre succeeded to Pala;-Tyrus, being inhabited by the same people (whose wickedness, exultation over the calamities of the Jews, and their cruelty in selling them for slaves, are assigned as the reasons of the impending judgments), the fate of both is included in the prophecy. The predictions of the prophets above referred to were extremely minute and circum- stantial, and announced that this city was to be taken and destroyed by the Chaldaeans (who, when the prophecy was delivered, were an inconsiderable people), and particularly by Nebuchadnezzar; that the inhabitants should flee over the Mediterranean into the islands and countries adjoining, and even there should not find a quiet settlement ; that the city should be restored after seventy years, and return to her gain and merchandise ; that it should be taken and destroyed a second time; that the people should, in time, forsake their idolatry, and become converts to the worship and true religion of God ; and, finally, that the city should be totally destroyed, and become a place only for fishers to spread their nets upon. Bishop Newton has proved how minutely these various predictions were fulfilled, to whose valuable Dissertations on the Prophecies the reader is necessarily referred. Yet a few of the most striking predictions, the fulfilment of which rests on the most unexceptionable testimony, may be selected. " One of the most singular events in history was the manner in which the siege of Tyre was conducted by Alexander the Great. Irritated that a single city should alone oppose his victorious march, enraged at the murder of some of his soldiers, and fearful for his fame, — even his army's despairing of success could not deter him from the siege. And Tyre was taken in a manner, the success of which was more wonderful than the design was daring ; for it was surrounded by a wall one hundred and fifty feet in height, and situated on an island half a mile distant from the shore. A mound was formed from the continent to the island ; and the ruins of old Tyre, two hundred and forty years after its demolition, afforded ready materials for the purpose. Such was the work, that the attempts at first defeated the power of an Alexander. The enemy consumed and the storm destroyed it. But its remains, buried beneath the water, formed a barrier which rendered successful his renewed efforts. A vast mass of addi- tional matter was requisite. The soil and the very rubbish were gathered and heaped. And the mighty conqueror, who afterwards failed in raising again any of the ruins of Babylon, cast those of Tyre into the sea, and took her very dust from off her. He Pt. 14. RUINS OF TYRE. left not the remnant of a ruin — and the site of ancient Tyre is now unknown. Who then taught the prophets to say of Tyre — ' They shall lay thy stones, and thy timber, and thy dust, in the midst of the water — I will also scrape her dust from her. I will make thee a terror, and thou shalt be no more. Thou shaft be sought for, yet thou shaft never be found again.' (Ezek. xxiv. 4. 12. 21.) " After the capture of Tyre, the conqueror ordered it to be set on fire. Fifteen thousand of the Tyrians escaped in ships ; and, exclusive of multitudes that were cruelly slain, thirty thousand were sold into slavery. Each of these facts had been announced for centuries: — 'Behold the Lord will cast her out — he will smite her power in the sea, and she shall be devoured with fire. — I will bring forth a fire from the midst of thee — I will bring thee to ashes upon the earth. Pass ye over to Tarshish — pass over to Chittim. The isles that are in the sea shall be troubled at thy departure. — Thou shalt die the death of them that are slain in the midst of the sea. The children of Israel also, and the children of Judah have ye sold. I will return the recompence upon your own head.' " But it was also prophesied, — ' I will make thee like the top of a rock. Thou shalt be a place to spread nets upon.' (Ezek. xxvi. 14, 15.) The same prediction is repeated, with an assurance of its truth : — 'I will make her like the top of a rock ; it shall be a place for the spreading of nets in the midst of the sea, for I have spoken it.' (Ezek. xxvi. 5.) " Tyre, though deprived of its former inhabitants, soon revived as a city, and greatly regained its commerce. It was populous and flourishing at the beginning of the Christian era. It contained many disciples of Jesus, in the days of the apostles. An elegant temple and many churches were afterwards built there. It was the see of the first archbishop under the patriarch of Jerusalem. Her merchandise and her hire, according to the prophecy, were holiness to the Lord. In the seventh century Tyre was taken by the Saracens ; in the twelfth by the crusaders — at which period it was a great com- mercial city. The Mamelukes succeeded as its masters; and* it has now remained lor three hundred years in the possession of the Turks. But it was not excluded from among the multitude of cities and of countries whose ruin and devastation, as accom- plished by the cruelties and ravages of Turkish barbarity and despotism, were foretold nearly two thousand years before the existence of that nation of plunderers. And although it has more lately, by a brief respite from the greatest oppression, risen somewhat from its ruins, the last of the predictions respecting it has been literally fulfilled," according to the unanimous testimony of modern travellers. From these accounts it appears that modern Tyre (now called Soor) is situated at the extremity of a sandy peninsula, and covers a space about one mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. Its appearance has nothing of magnificence. Its small port is choked up with sand and rubbish, so that the boats of the fishermen who visit this once renowned emporium, and dry their nets upon its rocks and ruins, cannot be admitted without great difficulty. According to Mr. Buckingham, the place now contains about 800 stone buildings ; but Mr. Rae Wilson reduces this number to 200. The population has been variously stated, by different travellers, at 1700, 4000, and from 5000 to 8000. The causes of these discrepancies it falls not within the plan of this work to account tor. The commerce of Tyre with Alexandria, which consists chiefly of silk and tobacco, is very trifling. Numerous beautiful columns stretched along the beach, or standing in fragments half buried in the sand, which has been accumulating for ages (of which our engraving will afford some idea), still exist, — an affecting monument of the fragile and transitory nature of earthly grandeur. * # * Bishop Newton on the Prophecies, Dissertation xi, Keith on Prophecy, pp. 340 — 343. MaundrelTs Travels, p. 38. Pococke's Description of the East, vol. ii. book i. p. 83. Shaw's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 30, 31. Jolliffe's Letters from Palestine, p. 13. (1820.) Rae Wilson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 64 — 66. Jowctt's Christian Researches in the Mediterranean, pp. 131 — 141. Irby's and Mangles' Travels, pp. 197, 198. Buckingham's Travels in Palestine, vol. i. pp. 52. 73—76. < THE FORDS OF THE JORDAN. Drawn by A. W. Callcott, from a Sketch made on the Spot by the Rev. R. Master and A. Allen, Esq. 1 The fords of Jordan." — Judg. iii. The Jordan is the principal river of Palestine : it derives its name {.Tor or Yar-dan, the River of Dan) because its rise was in the vicinity of the little city of Dan. Its true source is in two fountains at Paneas, a city better known by its subsequent name of Caesarea Philippi, at the foot of Anti-Libanus. Its apparent source flows from beneath a cave, at the foot of a precipice, in the sides of which are several niches, with Greek inscriptions. During many hours of its course, it continues to be a small and insignificant rivulet. It flows due south through the centre of the country, intersecting the lake Merom, antiently called Somonochitis, and the sea of Galilee ; and it loses itself in the Dead Sea : though it is probable that in very antient times it pursued its course to the Red Sea, until the convulsions occasioned by the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah, and the subsequent filling up of the bottom of the valley by the drifting sand, caused the stoppage of its waters. The course of this river is almost one hundred miles : its breadth and depth are various. Dr. Shaw computed it to be about thirty yards broad, and three yards or nine feet in depth. Messrs. Bankes and Buckingham, who crossed it in 1816, pretty nearly at the same ford over which the Israelites passed on their first entering the promised land, found the stream extremely rapid. Its depth here is stated to be not more than four feet. This ford is delineated in our engraving ; and in the foreground are pilgrims collected for the purpose of bathing in its hallowed waters. The annual procession for this purpose takes place after the festival of Easter. The pilgrims quit the Holy City under the protection of the governor of Jerusalem and his guards, who defend them from the assaults of the plundering Arabs of the district. The journey and ceremony of bathing in the river generally occupy the greater part of three days ; though many of the travellers perform it in two. The stream flows between steep banks, overshadowed by willows and other shrubs. After riding along the bank for about two miles, and passing throng]) a thicket of tamarisks and oleanders, at a bend of the river Pt.4. THE RIVER JORDAN. thickly shaded with willows, the pilgrims reach the spot delineated in our view ; they then immediately strip, and, rushing down the steep bank, plunge into the sacred stream. Many carry with them a white robe, to wear at this ceremony. When they are clothed again, and have filled their bottles with the holy water, they return to Jerusalem. *»* Irby's and Mangle's Travels, pp. 287 — 289. 329, 330. ; Maundrell's Travels, p. 110. ; Richardson's Travels, vol. ii. p. 387, 388.; Three Weeks in Palestine, pp.89, 90.; Carne's Recollections, p. 38.; Shaw's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 156, 157.; Buckingham's Travels, p. 315. MOUNT TABOR. Drawn by J. D. Harding, from a Sketch made on the spot by the Hon. Capt. Fitzmaurice. Mount Tabor, or Thabor, as it is sometimes called, is a calcareous mountain of a conical form, entirely detached from any neighbouring mountain : it stands on one side of the great plain of Esdraelon. The sides are rugged and precipitous, and covered to the summit with the most beautiful shrubs and flowers. Here Barak was encamped when, at the suggestion of the prophetess Deborah, he descended with ten thousand men, and discomfited the host of Sisera. (Judg. iv. 6, &c.) And, long afterwards, Hosea reproached the princes of Israel and the priests of the golden calves with having " been a snare in Mizpeh and a net spread upon Tabor" (Hos. v. 1.), doubtless referring to the altars and idols which were here set up ; and on this " high mountain apart" the transfiguration of Jesus Christ is generally believed to have taken place. (Matt. xvii. 1, 2.) Tabor is computed to be about a mile in height. To a person standing at its foot, it appears to terminate in a point : but, on reaching the top, he is agreeably surprised to find an oval plain, about a quarter of a mile in its greatest length, covered with a bed of fertile soil on the west, and having on its eastern side a mass of ruins, apparently the vestiges of churches, grottoes, and strong walls, all decidedly of some antiquity, and a few appearing to be the works of a very remote age. The Hon. Capt. Fitzmaurice, who visited this mountain in February, 1833, states that he saw the ruins of a very antient church, built over the spot where the transfiguration is supposed to have taken place. The prospects from the summit of Mount Tabor are singularly delightful and extensive. On the north-west, says Mr. Buckingham, (whose graphic description has been confirmed by subsequent travellers), " we had a view of the Mediterranean Sea, whose blue surface filled up an open space left by a downward bend in the outline of the western hills : to the west-north-west a small portion of its waters were seen ; and on the west, again, the slender line of the distant horizon was just perceptible over the range of land near the sea-coast. From the west to the south, the plain of Esdraelon extended over a vast space, being bounded on the south by a range of hills generally considered to be Hermon, whose dews Pt. 10. MOUNT TABOR. are poetically celebrated (Psal. cxxxiii. 3.), and having in the same direction, nearer the foot of Tabor, the springs of Ain-el-Sherar, which send a perceptible stream through its centre, and form the brook Kishon of antiquity. From the south-east to the east is the plain of Galilee, being almost a continuation of Esdraelon, and, like it, appearing to be highly cultivated. Beneath the range of Hermon is seated Endor, famed for the witch who raised the ghost of Samuel (1 Sam. xxviii.), and Nam, equally celebrated as the place at which Jesus raised to life the only son of a widow, and restored him to his afflicted parent. The range which bounds the eastern view is thought to be the ' mountains of Gilboa,' so fatal to Saul. (1 Sam. xxxi.) The Sea of Tiberias, or Lake of Gennesareth, is clearly discovered towards the north-east, and somewhat farther in this direction is pointed out the village of Saphet, anciently named Bethulia, the city alluded to by Jesus Christ in his divine sermon on the Mount, from which it is also very conspicuous. " The rest of this glorious panorama comprehends the sublime ' Mount of Beatitudes,' upon which that memorable sermon was delivered, together with the route to Damascus, and, lastly, Mount Lebanon, towering in the background in prodigious grandeur, the summit of which is covered with perpetual snow." *„* Jolliffe's Letters from Palestine, p. 140. Buckingham's Travels in Palestine, pp. 107 — 109. Dr. E. D. Clarke's Travels in Greece, &c. vol. iv. p. 238. Rae Wilson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 32 — 35. The Hon. Capt. Fitzmaurice's (unpublished) Cruise to Egypt, Palestine, and Greece, p. 58. THE RIVER KISHON, PART OF MOUNT CARMEL. Sketched and drawn by the Hon. Capt. W. E. Fitzmauiuce. The Kishon is a celebrated river in the land of Israel, which, according to the united testimony of antient authors and of modern travellers (with the exception of Dr. Shaw), takes its rise near the foot of Mount Tabor. Its course is at first southerly ; and as it passes through the plain of Esdraelon, it receives the waters which descend from the circumjacent mountains. At the south-west corner of that plain the Kishon reaches the foot of Mount Carmel ; and then, flowing to the north-west, between its base and the hills on the north, it discharges itself into the Mediter- ranean Sea at the port of Acre. Several important events are recorded to have taken place near this river. The battle between Barak and Sisera was fought in this region, probably after the river had been swollen by torrents which descended after a thunder-storm. Hence Deborah in her triumphant song says : — " They fought from heaven, the stars in their courses fought against Sisera. The river of Kishon swept them away, that antient river, the River Kishon." (Judg. v. 20, 21.) When the prophet Elijah had con- vinced the Israelites that Jehovah was the true God, he commanded them to seize the prophets of Baal, and bring them down to the Brook Kishon, where they were put to death. (1 Kings xviii. 40.) When Maundrell saw this river, in March, 1697, its waters were low and incon- siderable ; but, in passing along the side of the plain, he discerned the traces of many small torrents falling down into it from the mountains, which must necessarily make it swell exceedingly after sudden rains. Dr. Pococke forded it early in the eighteenth century. In the beginning of September, 1815, the German traveller, Otho von Richter, rode through the clear green water of the Mukattua (Kishon), which, he states, at its mouth divides itself into several arms, and irrigates several charming gardens. When this region was visited by the Hon. Captain Fitz.maurice, in March, 1833, " the river was much swollen, in conse- quence of the mountain rains, and came tumbling down through the Pt.6. THE RIVER KISHOX. rocks like distant thunder. The consequence of this," he continues, " was, that we were obliged to strip, tie our clothes on the top of our saddles, and alternately swim and ford with the horses."' This is the scene delineated in our engraving. After passing the river, his road lay along the foot of Mount Carmel, which is wooded from the top to the bottom with most beautiful shrubs, interspersed with a variety of flowers. " In many places there were men transplanting the olive trees, which seemed to grow in wild profusion. There is abundance of game all over the mountain ; wild boars, gazelles, and hares find shelter in the under- wood, and all the streams swarm with every species of water-fowl. At the extremity of the range is a strong exemplification of the prophecy of Amos (i. 2.) that ' the top of Carmel should wither:' and the barren aspect of the headland, which stretches out into the sea, and forms one horn of the bay of Acre, is in singular contrast with the rich verdure" of other parts of the mountain. *»* Maundrell's Travels, p. 76. Biblical Repository (Andover, Massachusetts, vol. i. pp. 601, 602.) Hon. Capt. Fitzmaurice's (unpublished) Cruise to Egypt, Palestine, and Greece, p. 62. THE PLAIN OF JEZREEL, OR OF ESDRAELON, FROM MODIN. Drawn on the spot by the Hon. W. K. Fitzmaurice. The Plain of Jezreel, or of Esdraelon, is an extensive level of Palestine, which extends from Mount Carmel and the Mediterranean, through the middle of the Holy Land, to the place where the river Jordan issues from the Sea of Tiberias. Antiently, it was called the " Valley of Jezreel," (Judg. vi. 33.) ; sometimes it is named the " Great Plain," and the " Plain of Tabor." Here, in the most fertile part of the land of Canaan the tribe of Issachar " rejoiced in their tents." (Deut. xxxiii. 18.) In all ages it seems to have been most distinguished as a theatre for local war : it certainly is well adapted for an extensive force, being about twenty-five miles long, and varying from six to fourteen in breadth. On this spot it was that the host of Sisera fell on the edge of the sword before Barak, who came down upon them like a torrent from Mount Tabor, with an overwhelming army. (Judg. iv. 13 — 16.) Here also Josiah, king of Judah, fought in disguise against Pharaoh Necho, king of Egypt, and fell by the arrows of his antagonist (2 Kings, xxiii. 29.) ; and here Nebuchadnezzar encamped with his mighty host against the nations, in revenge for their having refused to idolise him. Jews, Gentiles, Saracens, Christian crusaders, and anti-christian Frenchmen, Egyptians, Persians, Druses, Turks, and Arabs, warriors out of every nation under heaven, have pitched their tents in the Plain of Esdraelon. and have beheld the various banners of their nation wet with the dews of Tabor and of Hermon. The last battle which was fought here, called by some the battle of Esdraelon, and by others that of Mount Tabor, was in the spring of 1799, between fifteen hundred Frenchmen under the command of General Kleber and an army of several thousand Turks and Mamelukes, who fought most gallantly until the very last ball was expended, when Buonaparte attacked them with a corps de reserve, and completely discomfited them. The plain of Esdraelon is inclosed on all sides by mountains ; — by the Pt. 21. THE PLAIN OF JEZREEL, OR OF ESDRAELON. hills of Nazareth to the north, those of Samaria to the south, the mountains of Tabor and Hermon to the east, and by Carmel to the south-west. Although it bears the title of " Plain," yet it abounds with hills, which, in the view of it from the adjacent mountains, shrink into nothing. Here, if there were perfect security from the government (a thing unknown for centuries), it has been computed that, where only five wretched villages were seen, twenty-five good towns might stand, at a distance of three miles from one another, each with a population of a thousand souls, to the great improvement of the cultivation of so bountiful a soil. The Hon. Captain Fitzmaurice, in February, 1833, observed but little or no cultivation going on ; though in some places, where the plain was intersected with water-courses, the horses frequently sank half way up to their shoulders in the rich loamy soil. Cotton is raised here, the quality of which is supposed to be superior to any in the east. The fruitfulness of this plain is in a great degree to be attributed to the river Kishon, which flows through it. %* Dr. Clarke's Travels, vol. iv. pp. 255 — 258. Rae Wilson's Travels in the Holy Land, &c. vol. i. pp. 382, 383. Jowett's Christian Researches in Syria, pp. 191, 192. 302. The Hon. Capt. Fitzmaurice's (unpublished) Cruise to Egypt, Palestine, and Greece, p. 57. THE WILDERNESS OF ENGEDI, AND THE CONVENT OF SANTA SABA. Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Sketch by C. Barrt, Esq. The Hill of Engedi is about six miles distant from Jerusalem. Engedi is low towards the north, but descends steep into the wilderness on the south, on which side of it, not far beneath the summit, is the cave where Saul and David reposed, when the latter so magnanimously spared the life of his inveterate enemy. (1 Sam. xxiv. 1 — 18.) At first, it appears neither lofty nor spacious ; but a low passage on the left leads into apartments, where a party could easily remain concealed from those without. The face of the hill around it corresponds to the description given of Saul going in pursuit of David : — He " went to seek David and his men upon the rocks of the wild goats." (1 Sam. xxiv. 2.) The way through the wilderness is- very wild. The hills, over which it leads, are in general covered with coarse grass, and in some parts composed of sand. They are intersected by deep and narrow ravines, filled with wild verdure, in the sides of which are several caverns. The place is well calculated to afford secure concealment from pursuit amidst its recesses, or " strong-holds," as it did to David when pursued by Saul. (1 Sam. xxiii. 29.) At the extremity of this wilderness stands the convent of Santa Saba, which was founded in the sixth century : it is erected on the summit of a ravine three or four hundred feet deep, at the bottom of which flows the brook Kedron. This brook generally has but little water, and often none ; but after storms or heavy rains it swells and runs with much impetuosity. The church stands on a small eminence at the bottom of the dell : it is a very antient structure, adorned with grotesque figures of old male and female saints. The buildings of the monastery rise above it by an almost perpendicular flight of steps cut out of the rock, and thus ascend to the ridge of the hill, where they terminate in two square towers. The dome which appears near the centre of our engraving contains the tomb of Saint Saba, by whom the monastic and eremitical life was here instituted in the fourth century. Not fewer than ten thousand recluses Pt.6. THE WILDERNESS OF ENGEDI. are said to have dwelt within this convent at one time ; but not more than thirty Greek monks are at present resident, whose industry is very conspicuous. Flights of stone steps conduct to several small terraces, one above another ; and from below they have conveyed a portion of the soil to these terraces, on which they cultivate a variety of vegetables for the use of the convent. In a dark and cavernous apartment is a very extraordinary spectacle : the opposite sides of the precipices are full of caves : a great number of Christians were slaughtered here by a body of soldiers sent by one of the caliphs ; and the skulls of those martyrs have been collected in this chamber, in which they have been piled in small pyramids, to the number of two or three thousand. From the roof of the convent a flight of steps leads to a narrow wooden tower, which over- looks the wilderness to a great distance, having the deep glen of the Kedron far beneath, and commanding a view of the Dead Sea. Here a monk is often stationed, to give notice of the approach of any of the wild Arabs who dwell there. As at the convent of Mount Sinai, these fellows come to the foot of the walls, and clamorously demand bread. A large quantity of small brown cakes is always kept in the tower for these occasions ; they are thrown out of the window to the Arabs, who then depart. According to Dr. Pococke, this convent possesses such pri- vileges, that no Mohammedan can enter it, under a penalty of five hundred dollars, payable to the mosque at Jerusalem. In this retirement dwelt John of Damascus, Euphemius, Cyril of Jerusalem, — saints of distinguished eminence in the martyrology of the Greek church. * # * Pococke's Description of the East, vol. ii. p. 34. Carne's Letters from the East, pp. 307 — 313. Chateaubriand, Itin^raire, p. 160. w 3 eg ■ S . JERUSALEM. MOUNT ZION — THE MOSQUE OF DAVID. Drawn by F. Catherwood, from a Sketch made on the spot by George Bulmer, Esq. Mount Zion or Sion is one of the mountains on which the southern quarter of antient Jerusalem was built, (though the greater part of it is now without the walls of the city,) and on which the citadel of the Jebusites stood, when David took possession of it, and transferred his court thither from Hebron. (2. Sam. v. 6 — 9.) Hence it is frequently called the city of David (2 Sam. v. 9. vi. 10. 12. 1 Kings, viii. 1.), who was interred here. (1 Kings, ii. 10.) Over his tomb and on the middle of this mount is erected the long dingy-looking Turkish mosque delineated in our engraving, which appears to be of considerable antiquity. It is called the mosque of the prophet David, whose reputed tomb is still exhibited in the interior, and is held in the greatest possible veneration by the Mussulmans, by whom it is guarded with great vigilance. The santones belonging to this mosque are the most powerful in Jerusalem. Part of this building is said to have been the church of the coenaculum. where our Saviour ate the last supper with his disciples. Dr. Richardson was shown into an upper room in the front of the building, which, it was affirmed, was the identical room in which the Lord's Supper was instituted. Unhappily for this tradition, thirty-nine years after, not only the wall but every house in Jerusalem was rased from the foundations, and the ground ploughed up by the Roman soldiers. " Mount Zion is considerably higher than the ground on the north, on which the antient city stood, or that on the east, leading on to the Valley of Jehoshaphat ; but as it has very little relative height above the ground on the south and on the west, it must have owed its boasted strength principally to a deep ravine by which it is encompassed on the east, south, and west, and the strong, high walls and towers, by which it was inclosed and flanked completely round. This ravine or valley (more correctly, trench or ditch) seems to have been formed by art on the south and west, the suiface of the ground on each side being of nearly equal height, though Mount Zion is certainly the highest ; yet so little that it could not have derived much strength from the elevation." The Pt. 14. JERUSALEM. breadth of this ditch is nearly one hundred and fifty feet, and its depth, or the height of Mount Zion above the bottom of the ravine, about sixty feet. The bottom of it is rock, covered with a thin sprinkling of earth ; and in the winter season is the natural channel for conveying off the water that falls into it from the higher ground ; but, on both sides, the rock is cut perpendicularly down, and most probably it was the quarry from which the greater part of the stones were taken for building the city. The precipitous edge of the ravine is more covered with earth on the side of Mount Zion than on the other side, which is probably owing to the barbarous custom of rasing cities from their foundation, and tumbling both earth and stone into the ditch below. The loose stones have all been removed from it, for building the present city. When Dr. Richardson visited this mountain in 1818, " one part of it supported a crop of barley : another was undergoing the labour of the plough, and the soil turned up consisted of stone and lime mixed with earth, such as is usually met with in the foundations of ruined cities. It is nearly a mile in circumference, is highest on the west side, and towards the east falls down in broad terraces on the upper part of the mountain, and narrow ones on the side as it slopes down towards the brook Kedron. Each terrace is divided from the one above it by a low wall of dry stone, built of the ruins of this celebrated spot. The terraces near the bottom of the hill are still used as gardens, and are watered from the pool of Siloam. They belong chiefly to the inhabitants of the small village of Siloa, immediately opposite. We have here another remarkable instance of the special fulfilment of prophecy : — ' Therefore shall Zion for your sakes be ploughed as a field, and Jerusalem shall become heaps.' (Mai. iii. 12.)" * # * Dr. Richardson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 345 — 350. JERUSALEM. THE MOSQUE OF OMAR, ERECTED ON MOUNT MORIAH, WHERE SOLOMOn's TEMPLE STOOD. Drawn by D. Roberts from a Sketch made on the spot by F. Catherwood, Es93 — 296. Madox's Excursions in the Holy Land, &c. vol. ii. p. 316. Cassas, Voyage Pittoresque dans la Syrie. > THYATIRA. Drawn by W. Brockeuon, from a Sketch made on the spot by the Rev. I. V. J. Arundeli.. Thyatira was a city of Lydia, on the borders of Mysia: it is said to have been a Macedonian colony. During the wars of the Greek kings of Syria it underwent various changes, and finally surrendered to the Romans under Scipio. St. Luke informs us that Lydia was " a seller of purple, of the city of Thyatira" (Acts, xvi. 14.); and the discovery of an inscription here (among the very few remains which have survived the destroying hand of time), which makes mention of " the dyers," has been considered important in connexion with this passage. At the present time, this place is celebrated for dyeing ; and the cloths, which are here dyed scarlet, are deemed superior to any others furnished by Asia Minor, considerable quantities being sent every week to Smyrna for the purposes of commerce. Thyatira is interesting to the Christian antiquarian as being one of the seven churches of the apocalypse : the divine message which the apostle John was commissioned to deliver to the angel of this church is recorded in Rev. ii. 18 — 29. Modern Thyatira, by the Turks called Ak-hissar or the White Castle, is a large town, situated on a plain, about twenty-seven miles from Sardis. " The appearance of Thyatira, as we approached it," says the Rev. I. V. J. Arundeli," was that of a very long line of cypresses, poplars, and other trees, amidst which appeared the minarets of several mosques." — " On the left a view of distant hills, the line of which continued over the town." Near it we still find a very beautiful vegetation : the neigh- bourhood has a fertile appearance ; the white rose is extremely abundant, and scents the air with a most delightful odour. The general appearance of this town is mean : it abounds, however, with shops of every description. The population is estimated at three hundred Greek houses, thirty Armenian, and about one thousand are Turkish. There are nine mosques and two churches ; one for the Armenians, and a wretchedly poor one for the Greeks. A considerable trade is carried on with Smyrna in cotton wool. *„* Dr. Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, vol. ii. pp. 429, 430. Arundell's Visit to the Seven Churches of Asia, pp. 188 — 191. Hartley's Visit to the Apocalyptic Churches in 1826. (Researches in Greece and the Levant, pp. 312 — 315. 317 ) Pt. 21. «9 THE AREOPAGUS, OR MARS' HILL, WITH THE TEMPLE OF THESEUS, ATHENS. Drawn by C. Stanfif.ld, R. A., from a Sketch made on the spot by W. Page, Esq. The history of Athens being, in effect, the history of Greece during a long series of ages, the present notice must necessarily be confined to the statement of a few leading events. This celebrated city, the metropolis of the region called Attica, was founded 1556 years before the Christian a?ra, by Cecrops and an Egyptian colony ; at first it was called Cecropia, in honour of its founder, and subsequently Athena?, from Athena (or Minerva), the tutelary deity of the place. The history of its earlier kings is replete with fable. Athens received a material increase in the strength of its fortifications by the arrival of the Pelasgi, a people of uncertain origin, who came from the north, B.C. 1192. Pisistratus, Themistocles, Cimon, and above all Pericles, during the brilliant periods of Athenian history, contributed greatly to augment the splendour of the city by the magnificent edifices which they caused to be erected. From the expedition of Xerxes against Greece (in which Athens was taken, B. C. 480, and ten months after- wards was burnt by the Persian general Mardonius) to the irruption of Alaric into Greece, A. D. 396, — embracing a period of nearly five centuries, — Athens changed masters upwards of twenty times, and experienced numerous vicissitudes. Twice was the city burnt by the Persians : it was destroyed by Philip II. king of Macedon, and again by the Roman dictator Sylla ; the acropolis or citadel was plundered by Tiberius ; the Goths desolated the city in the reign of Claudius ; and the whole territory was ravaged by Alaric, who, however, appears to have spared much of Athens, and perhaps most of its antiquities. From the reign of Justinian to the thirteenth century, it remained in obscurity, though it continued to be a town, and the head of a small state. In 1204 it was besieged by Sgure, a petty prince of the Morea, but was successfully defended by the archbishop. Subsequently, it was seized by Boniface, marquis of Montserrat, who appointed one of his followers duke of Athens. It was a fief of the kingdom of Sicily during the latter part of the fourteenth century, when it fell into the possession of Reinier Acciajuoli, a Florentine, who bequeathed it to the Venetians. It was captured by Mohammed II. in 1455 ; in 1464 the Venetians surprised the city, but quitted it with their plunder, leaving it to the Turks, with whose empire it remained until 1687, when it was again taken by the Venetians, but shortly after was recaptured by the Turks. The sanguinary contests which in our own time have been carried on between the Greeks and the Turks, have very greatly diminished the numerous splendid remains of Athenian art, which had survived the injuries of time, and the depredations of the Turks and other dilapidators. During the Earl of Elgin's mission to Constantinople, his lordship secured for England such marbles as he could obtain permission to remove; these, having been purchased for 35,000/. by a grant of the British Parliament, are now deposited in the British Museum. Modern Athens, by the Greeks termed Setti/tes (a corruption of tit 'Aflvjra?), is seen in the fore-ground of our engraving ; in which two objects are particularly prominent, viz. the Theseum, or Temple of Theseus, and the Areopagus. 1. The Theseum, or temple in honour of Theseus, one of the mythic sovereigns of antient Athens, was erected by Cimon, a distinguished Athenian general, at his own expense. The entire edifice of this beautiful Doric temple Pt. 13. ATHENS. is of Pentelican marbie : it stands east and west, the principal front facing the east, and has a portico of six columns in each front, and on each side a range of eleven columns, exclusive of the columns on the angles. All these columns remain in their original position, excepting two, which have been demolished. Like all pillars raised according to the most antient style of building, they are without bases or pedestals ; standing with inexpressible dignity and simplicity upon the pavement of the covered walk around the cell of the temple. Some of the metopes represent the labours of Hercules; others, the exploits of Theseus ; and there are some which were never adorned with any sculpture. Above the antae of the pronaos, is a sculptured frieze, the subject of which cannot now be determined ; and the battle of the Centaurs with the Lapithae is represented upon a similar frieze of the posticus. The Theseum has long since been converted into a Greek church, dedicated to Saint George, — as good a hero, perhaps, as Theseus himself. 2. But a principal object of attraction to the Christian visitor of Athens is the Areopagus, or Mars' Hill, the highest or eastern summit of which was occupied by the tribunal of the Areopagus, which was said to have been instituted by Cecrops, the founder of the city, and was celebrated for the equity of its decisions. Among the various causes of which this court took cognisance were matters of religion, the consecration of new deities, the erection of temples and altars, and the introduction of new ceremonies into divine worship. On this account the apostle Paul was brought before the tribunal of the Areopagus as " a setter forth of strange gods, because he preached Jesus and the Resurrec- tion" (Acts, xvii. 18, 19.); and before this venerable judicature he delivered the admirably appropriate and eloquent discourse related in Acts, xvii. 22 — 31. The Areopagus is an insulated precipitous rock, situated in the midst of Athens, opposite to the antient acropolis, or citadel ; it is broken towards the south, and on the north slopes gently down to the temple of Theseus. " It is not possible," says Dr. E. D. Clarke, " to conceive a situation of greater peril, or one more calculated to prove the sincerity of the preacher, than that in which the apostle was here placed ; and the truth of this, perhaps, will never be better felt, than by a spectator, who from this eminence actually beholds the monuments of pagan pomp and superstition, by which he whom the Athenians considered as the ' setter forth of strange gods' was then surrounded ; repre- senting to the imagination the disciples of Socrates and of Plato, the dogmatist of the porch, and the sceptic of the academy, addressed by a poor and lonely man, who, though ' rude in speech,' without the enticing words of man's wisdom, enjoined precepts contrary to their taste, and very hostile to their prejudices We ascended to the summit by means of steps cut in the natural stone. The sublime scene here exhibited is so striking, that a brief description of it may prove how truly it offers to us a commentary upon the apostle's words, as they were delivered upon the spot. He stood upon the top of the rock, and beneath the canopy of heaven. Before him there was spread a glorious prospect of mountains, islands, seas, and skies ; behind him towered the lofty Acropolis, crowned with all its marble temples. Thus every object, whether in the face of nature, or among the works of art, conspired to elevate the mind, and to fill it with reverence towards that Being who made and governs the world (Acts, xvii. 24. 28.) ; who sitteth in that light which no mortal eye can approach, and yet is nigh unto the meanest of his creatures, ' in whom we live, and move, and have our being.' " *»* Lieut-Col. Leake's Topography of Athens, Introduction, and pp. *36 — *38. Dr. Chandler's Travels in Greece and Asia Minor, vol. ii. pp. 84. 89 — 91. Dr. Clarke's Travels, vol. vi. pp. 263 — 2b5. Dodwell's Tour through Greece, vol. i. pp. 361, 362. CORINTH— (CENCHRE^). Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Sketch made on the spot by R. Cockerels, Esq. Corinth, originally called Ephyra, was one of the most important cities of antient Greece : who the Corinthus was, from whom the city is stated to have derived its name, is matter of uncertainty and fable. It is situated on an isthmus between the iEgean and Ionian Seas, now called the bays of Lepanto and iEgina. From the convenience of its situation for commerce, it abounded in riches, and was furnished with all the accommodations, elegancies, and superfluities of life. By its port of Cenchre.?£, on the east, it received the merchandise of Asia, and by that of Lechoeum, on the west, it maintained intercourse with Italy and Sicily. The Isthmian Games, which were celebrated in its vicinity, by the great concourse of people which they attracted, contributed not a little to its immense opulence ; and the prodigality of the merchants rendered the place so expensive that it became a proverb, — " That not every man could go to Corinth." In the Achaean war, this city was destroyed by the Romans, under the consul Mummius, about one hundred and forty-six years before the Christian aera; but it was rebuilt about a century after by Julius Caesar, who planted a Roman colony here, which took the name of Colonia Laus Julia Corinthus. It then became the residence of the Roman proconsul of Achaia. Favoured by its situation, New Corinth soon regained its antient splendour, and became eminent for the commerce, riches, and voluptuousness of its inhabitants. Numerous schools were also established here, in which philosophy and rhetoric were taught by able masters, and strangers resorted hither to be in- structed in the sciences. The number of sophists, in particular, was very great. To all these circumstances Saint Paul has many allusions in his two epistles addressed to the Christians at Corinth, where he " continued a year and six months, teaching the word of God among them." (Acts xviii. 11.) The Roman colony was reserved to suffer the same calamity as the Greek city, and from a conqueror more terrible than Mummius — Alaric the Goth, the savage destroyer of Athens and universal Greece. In 1459 it was besieged and taken by Mohammed II. ; after which event the country became subject to the Turks, except such maritime places as were in the possession of the Venetians. At the conclusion of the war between the Turks and Venetians, in 1698, Corinth with the Morea was ceded to the republic of Venice, by which it was again yielded to the Turks in 1715. Various proposals were antiently made for cutting through the isthmus ; and the Venetians, while they held the sovereignty, Pt. 10. CORINTH (CENCHRE^E). actually began to carry this project into execution. Their works are still to be traced ; but they were suspended in consequence of the re- presentations of one of their generals, who declared that the completion of them would exhaust the whole wealth of the republic. To a modern engineer the task would probably appear much less formidable. Modern Corinth, though thinly peopled, is of very considerable extent, and is governed by a bey whose command extends over one hundred and sixty-three villages. The houses are placed wide apart, and much space is occupied by gardens ; the chief produce of the surrounding territory is corn, cotton, tobacco, oil, and wine of superior quality to that of Athens. Corinth is the first bishopric of the Morea : its climate is so bad that the inhabitants abandon the place during the summer and autumn, According to Dr. Clarke, no inscriptions are now to be seen here, nor is there a single fragment of antient sculpture remaining. Such is the actual condition of this celebrated seat of antient art, — this renowned city, once so vain of its high reputation and of the rank which it held among the states of Greece. The Acrocorinthos or Acropolis of Corinth, which is seen in our en- graving, is one of the finest objects in Greece; and, if properly garrisoned, it would be a place of great strength and importance. It abounds with excellent water, is in most parts precipitous, and there is only one spot from which it can be annoyed by artillery: this is a pointed rock situated a few hundred yards to the south-west of it, whence it was battered by Mohammed II. Before the introduction of artillery, it was deemed almost impregnable, and it had never been taken except by treachery or surprise. CenchkejE, the eastern port of Corinth, is eight miles and three quarters distant: it is resorted to by Greek vessels; and, as the reader may judge from our engraving, exhibits a busy scene. There was a Christian church here, the deaconess of which is mentioned in Rom. :.vi. 1. This place derives its name from Cenchrias, a reputed son of Neptune, and it still retains its antient appellation, with the loss only of the letter y, Kc%j»ai$ (Kekhries). The remains, still to be found here, faithfully correspond with the description given of the place by the Greek geographer Pausanias. At the distance of one mile to the southward of the port of Kekhries is the Bath of Helen : it is formed by a spring, which here boils up with force enough to turn a mill close to the sea. The water is beautifully clear, rather saline, and in a small degree tepid. * # * Dr. Chandler's Travels in Asia Minor and in Greece, vol. ii. chap. Ivii. pp. 288 — 295. Dr. Clarke's Travels in Greece, &c. vol. vi. pp. 547 — 585. Mr. Dodwell's Travels in Greece, vol. ii. pp. 194 — 200. Mr. Fuller's Tour through Some Parts of the Turkish Empire, pp. 33 — 35. EPHESUS, ONE OF THE SEVEN APOCALYPTIC CHURCHES: WITH THE MOSQUE BUILT ON THE SITE OF THE CHURCH OF SAINT JOHN. Drawn by W. Bkockedon, from a Sketch made on the spot by T. L. Donaldson, Esq. Ephesus was a celebrated city in Asia Minor, situated near the mouth of the river Cayster, between forty and fifty miles to the south of Smyrna: its foundation was so antient as to be ascribed to the Amazons. Subse- quently, it was occupied by Ionian colonists. It was chiefly celebrated for the worship and temple of Diana, which last, for its splendour, was accounted one of the wonders of the world. It was burnt in the year 356 B.C. by Herostratus, in order to immortalise his name; but was afterwards rebuilt with still greater splendour at the expense of all the Grecian states. Its greatest ornament was an image of Diana, which was said to have descended from Jupiter : the " silver shrines made for Diana" were, in all probability, miniature models of the temple at Ephesus, containing a small statue of the goddess, which were often carried about on journeys, &c. (Acts, xix. 24 — 31.) Saint Paul first visited Ephesus about the year 54 of the Christian sera ; and during three years and a half of his ministry he founded a flourishing church. Of his great care of the Ephesian community, we have a strong proof, in the affecting charge which he delivered to their elders at Miletus, where he had convened them on his return from Macedonia (Acts, xx. 16 — 38.), and still more in the admirable epistle which he afterwards addressed to them from Rome. (Eph. i. 1, &c.) At this time, the city of Ephesus abounded with orators and philosophers ; and its inhabitants, in their Gentile state, were celebrated lor their idolatry and skill in magic, as well as for their riches, luxury, and profligacy. Tradition represents Timothy to have been the first bishop of Ephesus, and that the apostle John resided here towards the close of his life. The present state of Ephesus affords a striking illustration of the accomplishment of prophecy. Ephesus is the first of the apocalyptic churches addressed by Saint John in the name of Jesus Christ. " His charge against her is a declension in religious fervour (Rev. ii. 4.), and his threat in consequence is a total extinction of her ecclesiastical bright- ness. (Rev. ii. 5.) After a protracted struggle with the sword of Rome, and the sophisms of the Gnostics, Ephesus at last gave way. The incipient indifference, censured by the warning voice of the prophet, increased to a total forgetfulness ; till, at length, the threatenings of the Apocalypse were fulfilled, and Ephesus sunk with the general overthrow of the Greek empire in the fourteenth century." Modern Ephesus, by the Turks called Aiasaluk, (a corruption of Agios Theologos, from the church of Saint John the theologian having stood near it,) is a wretched village, consisting of a few huts. The mosque in the foreground of the engraving is on the site of the antient church : it is in a dilapidated state. The lofty and massy columns of Pt. 22. EPHESUS. granite, which formerly sustained the roof, are said once to have adorned the temple of Diana. Originally, the city was built on a mountain ; in progress of time, it extended down along the plain to the sea, and gradu- ally became a commercial place. Around this village lie widely scattered ruins of palaces, houses, baths, with blocks of marble, fragments of columns, statues, and enormous stones bearing mutilated inscriptions, — all thrown together as if by an earthquake or bombardment, the wrecks of time and of devastating barbarians, and exhibiting most abundant proofs of the antient magnificence and extent of this renowned city, par- ticularly of the edifice which is supposed to have been the site of the theatre mentioned in Acts, xix. 31. The elevated situation of this struc- ture on Mount Prion, seen from Aiasaluk across the plain, accounts for the ease with which an immense multitude were collected ; the loud shouts of whose voices, reverberated from the neighbouring mount Corissus, would not a little augment the uproar which was caused by the populace rushing into the theatre. " What," says an eloquent traveller and divine (the Rev. Mr. Arundell), — "What would have been the astonishment and grief of the beloved apostle and Timothy, if they could have foreseen that a time would come, when there would be in Ephesus neither angel nor church nor city, — when the great city would become ' heaps, a deso- lation, a dry land, a wilderness ; a land wherein no man dwelleth, neither doth any son of man pass thereby.' Once it had an idolatrous temple, celebrated for its magnificence as one of the wonders of the world ; and the mountains of Corissus and Prion re-echoed the shouts of ten thousand, ' Great is Diana of the Ephesians!' Once it had Christian temples, almost rivalling the pagan in splendour, wherein the image that fell from Jupiter lay prostrate before the cross ; and as many tongues, moved by the Holy Ghost, made public avowal, that ' Great is the Lord Jesus!' Once it had a bishop, the angel of the church, — Timothy the disciple of Saint John ; and tradition reports, that it was honoured with the last days of both these great men, and of the mother of our Lord. Some centuries passed on, and the altars of Jesus were again thrown down to make way for the delusions of Mohammed ; the cross is removed from the dome of the church, and the crescent glitters in its stead, while, within, the Keble is substituted for the altar. ... A few unintelligible heaps of stones, with some mud cottages untenanted, are all the remains of the great city of the Ephesians. The busy hum of a mighty population is silent in death. ' Thy riches and thy fairs, thy merchandise, thy mariners, and thy pilots, — thy caulkers and the occupiers of thy merchandise, and all thy men of war, are fallen.' Even the sea has retired from the scene of desolation, and a pestilential morass, covered with mud and rushes, has succeeded to the waters that brought up the ships laden with merchandise from every country." To such a degree is the malaria now increased, that Ephesus is hardly to be approached with safety for six months in the year. * # * Emerson's Letters from the JEgean, vol. i. pp. 212, 213. Dr. Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, vol. i. pp. 363 — 373. Rae Wilson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 212 — 218. Arundell's Visit to the Seven Churches, pp. 27 — 56., and his Dis- coveries in Asia Minor, vol. ii. pp. 252 — 260. A S S O S. Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Sketch made on the spot by Charles Barry, Esq. Assos was a maritime city of Mysia, in Asia Minor, according to some geographers, and of Troas according to others. It is celebrated in the annals of Grecian philosophy as the birth-place of Cleanthes the Stoic, the successor of Zeno. Aristotle also resided here for some time. This city occupied a commanding situation at some distance from the coast, and was fortified with strong walls. The port was chiefly formed by a great mole. We learn from the Acts of the Apostles that Luke and the other companions of Saint Paul here rejoined with their ship the apostle, who had left them at Alexandria-Troas, and had crossed on foot from that city to Assos (xx. 13, 14.): — " And we went before to ship, and sailed unto Assos, there intending to take in Paul : for so had he ap- pointed, minding himself to go afoot. And when he met with us at Assos, we took him in, and came to Mitylene." The ruins of this antient city at Behrem, or Beriam Kalesi, which still attest its antient splendour, are described by Colonel Leake as being very curious. " There is," he says, " a theatre in very perfect pre- servation ; and the remains of several temples are lying upon the ground. On the western side of this city, the remains of the walls and towers with a gate are in complete preservation. Without the walls is seen the cemetery, with numerous sarcophagi still standing in their places, and an antient causeway leading through them to the gate. Some of these sarcophagi are of gigantic dimensions. The whole give the most perfect idea of a Greek city that any where exists." * # * Dr. Cramer's Geographical and Historical Description of Asia Minor, vol. i. pp. 122, 123. Colonel Leake's Journal of a Tour in Asia Minor, pp. 128, 129. Pt.8. 2 . MITYLENE. Drawn by J. D. Harding, from a Sketch made on the spot by W. Page, Esq. Lesbos, now known by the name of Metelin, is a large island in the /Egean Sea (or Archipelago), opposite to the coast of Asia Minor. According to classical tradition, Lesbos, the son of Lapithas and grandson of jEolus, by the advice of an oracle, conducted a colony thither; and, after espousing Methymna, daughter of Maeareus, he received with her the dominion of half the island, to the entire sovereignty of which he succeeded on the death of his father-in-law, and gave it his own name. Antiently, Lesbos abounded with forests of beech, cypress, and fir- trees ; marble, of an ordinary quality, was also found here, and the plains yielded abundance of grain ; and its happy temperature conspired with the richness of the soil to produce those delicious fruits and those exquisite wines, which are so highly extolled by antient writers. The modern state of its agriculture, however, does not entitle its products to the high encomium once bestowed upon them. The mountainous parts of the island, indeed, are still well wooded ; but the wine is of inferior quality and small in quantity, the greater part of the grapes being con- verted by the Turks into a confection, and the Greeks making the remainder into brandy. The oil of Lesbos does not sustain its former character, but its figs are accounted the best in all the Archipelago. This island is exposed to sudden and severe gusts of north and north-easterly winds. Hail rarely falls : but in summer the heat is oppressive on the southern coast, the climate of which is generally less healthy than on other parts of the island. There are no rivers except mountain torrents, but abundance of springs of wholesome water. Lesbos was celebrated for its schools of poetry and music, and gave birth to several distinguished persons, among whom we may enumerate Alcaeus and Sappho, lyric poets, Theophrastus, the disciple of Plato and Aristotle, and Pittacus, whom the Greeks reckoned among their seven most illustrious wise men. It contained nine towns of some note, of which Mitylene was the chief: it claims to be noticed in this work, as having been visited by the apostle Paul, on his way from Ephesus to Pt. 14. MITYLENE. Macedonia. (Acts, xx. 14>) Some remains of the old city are found near Castro, the principal place. Of the modern town, our engraving will convey to the reader an accurate idea. It has two parts, separated from each other by a tongue or neck of land, on which a citadel was erected by the Genoese, while they held the sovereignty of the island. This has been preserved by the Turks, by whom it has been garrisoned, and fortified by cannon. The upper, or northern port, is protected from the north-east wind by a mole, the construction of which has been ascribed to the antient Greeks. The southern port faces the south-west, and is neither so deep nor so capacious as the other. The population of Metelin or Castro is said to consist of about 7000 persons, of whom 2000 or 3000 aie Greeks, and the remainder Mohammedans, besides forty Jewish families. The total population of the island is estimated at 40,000 souls, one half of which number are Greeks, and the rest Turks. The island of Lesbos fell successively under the dominion of the Persians, Greeks, and Romans. For a short time the crusaders held it ; and on the division of the Byzantine Empire by the Franks, in the early part of the thirteenth century, Lesbos fell into the hands of the Venetians. Subsequently, the Greek emperor granted it to the Genoese, in whose possession it remained, when the Turks became masters of the eastern empire. Finally, it yielded to the arms of Mohammed II. in 1463, and it has remained ever since under the dominion of the Turks. *,* Olivier, Voyage dans l'Empire Othoman, torn. i. pp.269 — 271. (4toedit.) Dr. E. D. Clarke's Travels, vol. ill. pp. 228—231. (8vo edit.) *z~. MILETUS. Drawn by C. Stanfield, from a Sketch made on the spot by W. Page. Miletus was a celebrated city of Caria in Asia Minor; but from the in- timate connection of its inhabitants with the confederated cities of Ionia, it is usually classed by geographers among the Ionian cities. It was founded by a colony of Cretans under the command of Sarpedon, the brother of Minos, whom the Carians permitted to erect a city, and was called Miletus, either from a Cretan town, or from an individual of that name. When the Ionians subsequently arrived there under the conduct of Neleus, they put to death or expelled the Carian inhabitants, and occupied the city. The admirable situation of Miletus, and the convenience of having four harbours, one of which was capable of containing a large fleet, at an early period gave it a great preponderance in maritime affairs. Its na- vigators extended its commerce to remote regions. The whole Euxine Sea, the Propontis, Egypt, and other countries, were frequented by its ships, and settled by its colonies, the number of which probably exceeded that of any other city of antiquity. Several of the kings of Lydia inef- fectually attempted to possess themselves of so considerable a city ; but finally the Milesians made a treaty with Crcesus, whom they probably acknowledged to be their liege lord, and consented to pay him tribute. Subsequently the Milesians withstood Darius, and refused to admit Alexander, who at length took their city by assault, but pardoned the surviving inhabitants, to whom he gave their liberty. The Milesians afterwards sided with the Romans during their wars with Antiochus. Saint Paul sojourned here for a short time on his return from Mace- donia and Troas (Acts xx. 15.); and summoned thither the elders of the Ephesian church, to whom he delivered the affecting charge related in Acts xx. 17 — 35. The Milesian church was afterwards under the di- rection of bishops, who sat in several councils, and ranked as metro- politans of Caria. This continued as late as the decline of the Byzantine empire, subsequently to which the history of Miletus is very imperfect. The whole region experienced repeated ravages from the Turks, while they were possessed of the interior country, and bent on extending their conquests westward to the shore. One sultan in 1175 sent twenty Pt.9. MILETUS. thousand men, with orders to lay waste the Roman provinces, and to bring him sea-water, sand, and an oar. All the cities on the Meander and on the coast were ruined. Miletus was again destroyed towards the end of the thirteenth century by the concfuering Othman. At present Miletus is a very mean place, but is still called Palat or Palatia, the Palaces. The principal relic of its former magnificence is a ruined theatre, which is visible afar off, and was a most capacious edifice, measuring in front four hundred and fifty-seven feet. The external face of this vast fabric is marble : the seats are ranged on the slope of a hill, and a few of these remain. The vaults, which supported the extremities of the semicircle, with the arches or avenues of the two wings, are constructed with such solidity as not easily to be demolished. The whole site of the city to a great extent is spread with rubbish, and over-run with thickets. The vestiges of the heathen city are pieces of wall, broken arches, and a few scattered pedestals and inscriptions, and many wells. One of the pedestals has belonged to the emperor Hadrian, who was a friend to the Milesians, as appears from the appellations of " saviour" and " benefactor" bestowed on him. Another has supported the emperor Severus. Some fragments of ordinary churches are interspersed among the ruins. %* Dr. Cramer's Geographical and Historical Description of Asia Minor, vol. i. pp. 385 — 387. Dr. Chandler's Travels in Asia Minor and in Greece, vol. i. pp. 181 — 184. (Oxford, 1825.) RHODES. Drawn by J. M. W. Turneh, from a Sketch made on the spot bj' W. Page, Esq. Rhodes, an island in the Grecian Archipelago, was visited by Saint Paul on his way to Jerusalem (Acts, xxi. 1.) : it lies about ten miles from the coast of Asia Minor, and is about forty miles long, and fourteen or fifteen miles in breadth. In anlient times it was sacred to the sun, and was (as it still is) justly celebrated for its serene sky, the softness of its climate, the fertility of its soil, and abundant produce ; but so small a portion of the soil is cultivated, that it scarcely raises corn sufficient for its support. The principal exports are honey and wax; and in 1833 there was a considerable trade in oranges, as the crops in other parts had failed. The modern population of the entire island does not exceed 30,000, two thirds of whom are Turks. Few diseases, however, are known, and the heat of the weather is seldom oppressive, being cooled by the westerly winds which blow during the greater part of the year. This island is very fertile, and much of the scenery in its interior is of the most romantic kind. Wild and lonely valleys, where the rose and myrtle spring in profusion, open into the sea, and are inclosed on every side by steep mountains, clothed with valuable forests of pine, which supplied the navies of the antient Rhodians, The wild roses, which grow in such profusion, are supposed to have given its name to the island, from the Greek word 'PoSo? (Rhodos), a rose. The gardens are filled with delicious fruits ; every gale is scented with the most powerful fragrance, which is wafted from groves of orange and citron trees. The antient republic of Rhodes was an important naval power : not only did the Rhodians undertake distant voyages for commercial pur- poses, but they founded colonies in Sicily, Italy, and Spain. Their commercial laws were adopted as the basis of maritime law on all the coasts of the Mediterranean ; and some fragments of them still retain their authority. This rich and powerful republic took an important part in several of the Roman wars, and enjoyed various privileges from the Romans ; but in the reign of the emperor Vespasian it was reduced to a Roman province. This island was the last barrier interposed by Christian chivalry to the overwhelming force of the Ottoman power. In 1309 the knights hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem took this island from the Greeks, and held it in full sovereignty for rather more than two centuries, whence they were called the " Knights of Rhodes." In 1-180 they repelled an attack of the Turks; but in 1523, after a long and sanguinary siege of the capital, which they bravely defended for six months, they were compelled to surrender the island to Solyman II. Rhodes, the capital of the island, is situated at the most northern extremity : in antient times it was distinguished for the beauty and magnificence of its ports, streets, walls, public edifices, and works of art both in painting and sculpture. The most extraordinary work was the celebrated Colossus of the Sun, cast by Chares of Lindus, a pupil of Lysippus. It was seventy cubits, or one hundred and five feet in height, Pt. 16. RHODES. and cost three hundred talents. This prodigious Statue, which was ranked among the seven wonders of the world, stood at the entrance of the port, and it is said that vessels could pass between the legs : it was thrown down by an earthquake about five hundred and six years after its erection. The Greek historian Cedrenus affirms that a Saracen king sold the fragments of it to a merchant, who employed upwards of nine hundred camels in carrying them away. The modern city of Rhodes (which is conspicuous in our engraving) is more regular and clean than most oriental towns. The moats, walls, and towers are still formidable. The width of the streets, and the foot- pavement by the sides, prove that they still retain the form given them by their antient possessors ; and a great many of the houses preserve their European aspect. The street of the Cavaliers is the most perfect ; it is narrow, and built upon an ascent. " The arms of the knights are emblazoned upon shields over the entrances to the wards, together with the arms of the nation to which the ward belonged, and some of these heraldic emblems are still entire. The arms of England are opposite the entrance into the castle of the grand master, in which the massy door is yet upon its hinges ; and the arch, by which it is surmounted, is formed of many ribs of elaborate sculpture. The entrance from the street to each ward opens upon a passage, that leads into a court planted with trees ; and round the court are galleries or cloisters, from which the apartments are severally entered. At the higher end of this street are the remains of a church now roofless. Nearly all the old castles and houses are inhabited. The streets are paved with small pebbles : there are many stone balls, of different sizes, scattered in all directions, said to have been used during the siege. The quarter of the Jews contains about one hundred and fifty houses:" it is a narrow street, and the quarter allotted to the Greeks is much larger and cleaner. In one of the streets there is a row of trees on each side, which has a very pleasing appearance. The small harbour, or basin, of Rhodes, is very fine and convenient ; the rocks approach so near on each side, that scarcely more than one ship can enter at a time: the water within is only deep enough for merchant vessels. The houses stand close to the water's edge round part of this harbour ; and the quays, on which grow some fine trees, afford an agreeable, though short, promenade. Tradition says that the Colossus stood at the mouth of this basin, with its feet on the rocks on each side. The tower on the left of our engraving, at the entrance of the harbour, is supposed to occupy the place of one of its feet. In the distance are seen the mountains of Caramania; and Ihe farthest point to the left, or west, is Cape Crio, formerly the promontory of Cnidos, which was with difficulty passed by the vessel in which Saint Paul was embarked on his first voyage, as a prisoner, to Rome. * m * Dr. Cramer's Geographical and Historical Description of Asia Minor, vol. ii. pp. 224 — 285. Carne's Letters from the East, pp. 478 — 484. Hardy's Notices of the Holy Land, &c. pp. 299, 300. SIDON. Drawn by J. M. W. Turner, from a Sketch made on the spot by C. Barry, Esq. Sidon, or Zidon, is supposed by some to have derived its name from the eldest of the sons of Canaan (Gen. x. 15.), its reputed founder ; while others deduce it from the Hebrew or Syrian word |"l"W [tsidoh], which signifies fishing. If the primitive founder were a fisherman, the two accounts may be easily reconciled. It was more antient than Tyre, though both have been classed together as sisters, most probably from their antiquity and corresponding prosperity. It was considered a city of great extent and importance, since Joshua particularly calls it " Zidon the Great," by way of eminence. In the division of Palestine Zidon was allotted to the tribe of Asher, who could never get possession of it. (Josh. xix. 28. Judg. i. 31.) During the administration of Joshua, and afterwards, it was governed by kings. (Josh. xix. 28. Jer. xxv. 22.) This city is situated on the Mediterranean one day's journey from Paneas, or from the fountains of the Jordan ; and has always been cele- brated for its trade and navigation. Its inhabitants were the first remark- able merchants in the world, and were very early distinguished for theii luxury : for, in the days of the Judges of Israel, the inhabitants of Laish are said to have dwelt " careless and secure, after the manner of the Zidonians." (Judg. xviii. 7.) The men of Sidon, being great shipwrights, were particularly eminent, above all other nations, for hewing and polish- ing timber ; there being " none who were skilled to hew timber like the Zidonians." (1 Kings v. 6.) Saint Paul touched here, on his voyage to Italy, and visited the brethren who had embraced the Christian faith. (Acts xxvii. 3.) During the Crusades, Sidon fell into the hands of the Christians, who lost it in 1111. They recovered it from the Saracens, and Pt. 2. SIDON. Louis IX. King of France repaired it in 1250; but the Saracens made themselves masters of it a second time in the year 1289. At one period the city is supposed to have extended almost three miles along the coast, and a mole projected into the sea ; but no indication of its former grandeur is now visible, though some remains have been found under ground ; its harbour, as well as every part along the coast from Bayreuth, or Beyroot, to Acre, having long since been destroyed by sinking ships and stones, to prevent the entrance of Turkish vessels. Seide, or Saide (such is the modern name of Sidon), has a noble and picturescpje appearance, at the distance of about two miles, standing boldly out into the sea, upon rather high ground. The interior, however, is wretched and gloomy : the streets are extremely narrow, and many of them are under archways, as at Jerusalem. The population is estimated at about seven thousand ; of whom about sixteen hundred are Christians, two hundred are Jews, and the remainder are Mohammedans. The sur- rounding country abounds with game ; and fruit is very abundant. Con- siderable quantities of silk are produced here : the trade of dyeing occupies much attention, as well as the manufacture of boots, shoes, and slippers of fine morocco leather ; and the women of modern Seide are as dis- tinguished for their needlework and embroidery, as those of antient Sidon were. The gardens around Seide are stated to be very beautiful ; but the walls which surround the town are in a state of dilapidation. Upon an .elevation, on the south side, is situated a castle now in ruins, which how- ever exhibit traces of its former pride and commanding situation. This is said to have been erected by Louis IX. King of France. There are also ruins of a second edifice, of a similar description, which stand upon a rock in the sea, having a communication with the land by a bridge with many arches of stone. Vessels ride here under a ridge of rocks, at a short distance from the shore, for the sake of shelter. ( Wilson's Travels in the Holy Land, &c. vol. ii. pp. 74 — 79.) SYRACUSE. Drawn by C. Stanfield, from a Sketch made on the spot by Mrs. Callcott. The city of Syracuse, the metropolis of the island of Sicily, was founded upwards of seven hundred years before the Christian sera, by Archias, of Corinth, one of the Heraclidae : by the antients it was called Pen- tapolis, from its containing within its walls the five cities of Ortygia, Acradina, Tycha, Neapolis, and Epipolae. In its most flourishing state it comprised above 1,200,000 inhabitants, extended upwards of twenty- two English miles, maintained an army of 100,000 foot and 10,000 horse, together with a navy of 500 armed vessels, that proudly rode in its two capacious harbours, which were separated from each other by the island of Ortygia. This city was surrounded by a rich and fertile country, and possessed every advantage of local situation: it was further embellished by works of the most exquisite taste and per- fection in architecture, sculpture, and painting; while commerce and extent of territory diffused such wealth among its citizens as rendered their affluence proverbial. After a long period of prosperity and glory, and after a struggle almost unexampled in the annals of history, Syra- cuse was finally reduced (b. c. 212.) by the Roman arms under the command of the consul Marcellus ; who, on entering the city, and reflecting upon its past magnificence and fallen state, is said to have burst into tears. " Landing at Syracuse," on his first voyage to Rome, Saint Paul " tarried there three days." (Acts xxviii. 12.) On approaching the walls of Syracuse, the traveller, who calls to mind the rank which this once splendid city occupied in the page of history, and who has raised his expectations with the prospect of surveying the remains of those structures so warmly depicted by various classic authors, may — like Marcellus — shed a tear of disappointment over its fallen state. Although these antiquities are few in number, they are scattered over so great an extent of ground, as to require at least three days in visiting them. Syracuse stands on the antient island of Ortygia. The following are a few of the remains of art, which are still pointed out to travellers : — 1. A temple originally consecrated to Minerva: it stands in the modern city, and was transformed into a Christian church in the seventh Pt8. SYRACUSE. century, when it sustained considerable injury. In the twelfth century it received still further damage from an earthquake, which shook down its roof. This edifice is now the cathedral church of Syracuse; and it forms a prominent figure in the back-ground of our engraving. 2. Near the great port, and separated from the waters of the sea by a thick wall, is the celebrated fountain of Arethusa, the stream of which is still copious : but the nymphs of the spring, which the antient poets and mythologists imagined to exist, are metamrophosed into washer- women. 3. The theatre, excavated in the solid rock on the declivity of a hill : the solid structure of this edifice has saved it from ruin. Not far distant from it is, 4. An amphitheatre, of small dimensions, but well built with blocks of massive stone : many of the steps yet remain. 5. Between the theatre and amphitheatre are the extensive Latomiae, or quarries, in one of which is the well known cavity, termed the Ear of Dionysius : it is excavated in the shape of the letter S, and rises to a considerable height, which naturally accounts for the strength of the echo which it produces. 6. The catacombs are not far from the amphitheatre : they are now called the Grotte di San Giovanni. Near the entrance is an old Christian church, which is said to have been erected in the earliest ages of Chris- tianity, and to contain the ashes of Saint Martian. Its form shows it to be of great antiquity ; and it contains several fragments of old columns, one of which is reputed to have been the spot where the martyr was put to death. These catacombs owe their preservation to their subterraneous situation : in regularity, form, extent, and plan, Sir Richard Colt Hoare considers them as far exceeding those of Naples and of Rome. Various other splendid remains attest the antient magnificence of Syracuse, among which the walls are particularly worthy of notice. The exterior part was perpendicular, and the interior shaped into steps. Modern Syracuse is computed to be about two miles in circumference : it exhibits narrow streets, and a dejected, sickly population, which is estimated at 15,000. The climate is said to be rendered very unwhole- some by the extreme heat of the sun, and by the malaria of the con- tiguous marshes. %* Sir Richard Colt Hoare's Classical Tour through Italy and Sicily, pp. 395 — 420. PUTEOLI. Drawn, and sketched on the spot, by W. Linton. Puteoli, now called Pozzuolo, is an antient city of the Campania of Naples : it was erected by the inhabitants of Cumae as a sea-port, and is by some supposed to have derived its original appellation, — Dicaearchia — from the excellence of its government : but when the Romans planted a colony there, they gave it the name of Puteoli, probably from the number of its wells, or perhaps from the stench emitted from the sulphureous and aluminous springs in its neighbourhood. The Romans appear to have first directed their attention to this spot, in the second Punic war, when the consul Fabius was ordered to fortify and garrison the town, which had hitherto been frequented only for commercial purposes. Very shortly after, it became a naval station of considerable importance : its situation as a sea-port is, indeed, unrivalled. It stands on a point that juts out a little into the sea, nearly in the centre of a fine bay. Hence armies were shipped for Spain : and the embassy from Carthage, which was sent to sue for peace at the close of the second Punic war, disembarked here and proceeded to Rome by land, as Saint Paul also did, about two hundred and fifty years afterwards. There, he " found brethren with whom he was desired to tarry seven days," (Acts, xxviii. 13, 14.) before he proceeded on his journey by the Appian Way. In the time of the geographer Strabo (who died A. D. 25), Puteoli appears to have been a place of great commerce, and particularly connected with Alexandria, at that time the emporium of the east. Its harbour was spacious and well constructed ; being formed of vast piles of stone and mortar, which owing to the strongly cementing properties of the latter, (made with sand now called Pozzolana) became solid and compact masses ; and thus being sunk in the sea afforded secure anchorage for any number of vessels : in the time of the Romans it possessed a conspicuous lighthouse. Puteoli became a Roman colony about two hundred years before the Christian aera ; and was subsequently re-colonized by Augustus and by Nero. From Cicero we learn that it was a municipium, or town corporate invested with the privileges aud liberties of Rome, in conjunction with its own particular laws or customs by which it was governed. From the zeal with which its inhabitants espoused the cause of Vespasian, it was called Colonia Flavia. From the contiguity of Puteoli to Naples, it is visited by most travellers, on account of a few but curious remains of antiquity which have survived the injuries of time. Among these, the ruins of the Antient Mole, which form a prominent object in our engraving, claim the first notice : several of its piles still stand unshaken. They are sunk in deep water, and once supported arches, parts of which remain suspended in shattered grandeur over the waves. It is not known by whom this mole was constructed, but it was repaired by the Roman emperors, and an inscription at Pozzuolo states that Antoninus in particular repaired it, after it had been damaged or thrown down by the fury of the waves. To these arches Caligula joined the bridge of boats, which he threw over the bay from Puteoli to Baiae or Baulis ; whence the inhabitants of Pozzuolo have erroneously termed it Caligula's Bridge. At this mole Pt. 13. PUTEOLI. the apostle Paul landed, on his first journey to Rome. (Acts, xxviii. 13.) The cathedral, formerly a temple consecrated to Augustus, exhibits large square stones, joined together without cement, and remains of Corinthian columns with an architrave, all of which appear to have belonged to the antient edifice. In the principal piazza stands a pedestal of white marble, found in 1693; on which are represented figures in basso relievo, personifying the fourteen cities of Asia Minor destroyed during one night by an earthquake in the reign of Tiberius, by whom they were rebuilt. In the same piazza is an antient statue, bearing the name of Q. Flavius Masius Egnatius Lollianus, and not far distant is the quadrangular temple dedicated to the sun under the name of Jupiter Serapis. This magnificent edifice was erected during the sixth century of Rome, but partly thrown down, and completely buried by an earthquake, until it was discovered, A. D. 1750, by a peasant. In consequence of excavations, the temple was displayed to view almost entire. Instead, however, of restoring what had been thrown down by the earthquake to its proper place, or even leaving the edifice in the state in which it had been discovered, the kings of Spain and Naples have taken away columns, statues, every thing, in short, which they thought worth removing. Neither have they excavated sufficiently, as the front of the principal entrance does not appear to be yet unburied ; enough, however, meets the eye, to form one of the most interesting objects imaginable. This temple is one hundred and thirty-four English feet long, by one hundred and fifteen feet wide: its pavement (now covered with mud and stagnant water) consists of beautiful marble, with which the whole edifice appears to have been lined. Three columns alone remain standing, which have been robbed of their capitals ; each shaft is one solid piece of cipollino. Four flights of marble steps led to the middle part of the temple, which was sixty-five feet in diameter, and of a circular form : and near the site of one of these flights of steps are two rings of Corinthian brass, to which the victims destined for sacrifice were probably fastened. The receptacles for their blood and ashes still remain, as also do the bathing rooms, some of which are nearly perfect. The quantity of water in and about this temple, added to the circumstance of there being within its walls upwards of thirty small apartments, several of which resemble baths, induces antiquaries to think that the sick and infirm resorted thither in order to bathe in consecrated water provided by the priests of Serapis. It is easy to conceive what the animation and splendour of Puteoli must have been, at the time when the riches of the east were poured into its bosom, and when its climate, baths, and beauty allured the most opulent Romans to its vicinity. Commerce, however, has long since forsaken it : the port which once engrossed the traffic of the east, and was accustomed to behold the Roman navy riding on its bosom, is all solitude and silence. Not one sail is spread, not even a boat is seen to ply in its forsaken waters. * # * Dr. Cramer's Description of Antient Italy, vol. ii. pp. 163 — 165. Mrs. Starke's Information and Direction for Travellers, p. 336. (eighth edition.) Eustace's Classical Tour through Italy, vol. ii. pp. 386 — 390. vol. iii. p. 21. (third edition.) ROME. THE FORUM, AS SEEN PROM THE CAPITOLINE MOUNT. Drawn by J. D. Harding, from a Sketch made on the spot by W. Page, Esq. Christianity is generally supposed to have been first planted at Rome, by some of those " strangers of Rome, Jews and proselytes" (Acts, ii. 10.), who heard the apostle Peter preach, and were converted at Jerusalem on the day of Pentecost. To the church thus formed in the metropolis of the antient world, Saint Paul affectionately inscribes his epistle to the Romans, (i. 7.) The Forum, which is delineated in our engraving, is perhaps the most melancholy object which Rome contains within its walls. Not only is its former grandeur utterly annihilated, but the ground has not been applied to any other purpose. When the visitor descends into it from the Capitoline Hill, or Mount, he finds many of the antient buildings buried under irregular heaps of soil ; and a vivid imagination might fancy that some spell hung over the spot, forbidding it to be profaned by the ordinary occupations of inhabited cities. Where the Roman people beheld temples erected to perpetuate their exploits, and where the nobles vied with each other in the magnificence of their dwellings, we now see a few insulated pillars standing, and some broken arches. Where the comitia were held, where Cicero harangued, and where triumphal processions passed, we now see no animated beings, except strangers who are actuated by curiosity, or convicts who are employed in excavating as a punishment, and cattle grazing upon the scanty pasture. The Roman Forum is now called the Campo Vaccino : it is computed to have been 705 feet in length, and 470 in width. The three pillars on the right of our engraving are said to have belonged to the temple of Jupiter Tonans : they stand on the declivity of the Capitol, not far from the column of the emperor Phocas. It is known from Suetonius*, that Augustus erected such a temple at the foot of the Capitol, in gratitude for his escape from being struck by lightning ; and of that temple these are supposed to be the remains. The pillars were buried in the earth, almost up 1o their capitals, which * In Augusto, c. 29. Pt. 17. are of the Corinthian order ; but while the French were at Rome, in 181 1, they were disinterred, and are now laid open to the bottom. They are of white marble, fluted, and are of great size, being four feet four inches in diameter. Up the lateral frieze there are several ornaments connected with sacrifices. According to Vitruvius, the Temple of Jupiter Tonans antiently had a portico of thirty columns. The building, which appears on the left, is the Arch of Septimus Severus, which was erected in honour of that emperor and his two sons, Geta and Caracalla, to commemorate two triumphs over the Parthians. It stands at the foot of the Capitol, &c. at the north-west angle of the antient forum : it is of white marble, and consists of one large arch, with a smaller one on each side, having a lateral communication from one to the other. Besides the bas-relief on each front, it is ornamented with eight fluted composite pillars. Formerly, there was a chariot on the top. This arch was for centuries buried for nearly half its height. Leo X. ordered some excavations to be made under the direction of Michael Angelo : in 1563 they were undertaken a second time, but were filled up again. A similar failure took place in the pontificate of Gregory XVI. ; and in 1 804 the arch was laid open to the bottom by Pius VII. In the centre is the Temple of Fortune, which edifice was for a long time mistaken for the Temple of Concord. Its portico only remains : it consists of a front of six Ionic columns of granite, the bases and capitals of which are of white marble. They support an entablature and a pediment, and all vary in diameter ; which circumstance induces a belief that this edifice must have been restored with materials borrowed from other buildings. The interior frieze now remaining exhibits some ornaments of excellent workmanship, and others so inelegant as to savour strongly of the dark ages ; and as it appears evident that the Temple of Fortune, situated on the ascent to the Capitol, was burnt during the reign of the emperor Maxentius, and rebuilt about the age of Constantine, and likewise equally evident that the Temple of Fortune stood very near that of Jupiter Tonans (as the portico in question does), the antiquaries of Rome now concur in opinion, that this portico was the entrance to the Temple of Fortune. %* Dr. Burton's Description of the Antiquities, &c. of Rome, vol. i. pp. 201, 202. 20.5. 213, 214. 238. 241. Burgess's Antiquities of Rome, vol. i. p. 408. Mrs. Starke's Travels in Europe, p. 137. DAMASCUS. Drawn by A. W, Callcott, from a Sketch made on the spot by Charles Baret, Esq. " I will break also the bar of Damascus." — Amos, i. 5. Damascus ranks as a city of high antiquity ; if, indeed, it be not the oldest city on the globe : it is first mentioned in Gen. xiv. 15. It stands on the river Barrady (the Chrysorrhoas or Golden Stream of the antient geographers), in a beautiful and most fertile plain, on the east and south- east of Anti-Libanus, open to the south and east, and bounded on the other sides by the mountains. The region around it, including probably the valley between the ridges of Libanus and Anti-Libanus, is in the Old Testament called Syria of Damascus or Demesk, and by Strabo, Coelesyria. This city, which originally had its own kings, was taken by David (1 Sam. viii. 5, 6.), and subsequently by Jeroboam II. king of Israel. (2 Kings, xiv. 28.) Afterwards it was subject to the Assyrians, Babylonians, Persians, the Seleucidse, and the Romans. In the time of Saint Paul it appears to have been held by Aretas, king of Arabia Petrsea, the father-in-law of Herod Antipas. (2 Cor. xi. 32, 33.) At this period it was so much thronged by Jews, that according to Josephus (War, book ii. ch. xx. § 2.) ten thousand of them, by command of Nero, were put to death at once. Modern Damascus, by the natives called El Sham (an appellation of uncertain meaning), though often captured and several times demolished, has always risen again to splendour and dignity, and lias in all ages been mentioned as one of the finest and most delightful situations in the world : it may be called the Florence of Turkey, and the flower of the Levant. Surrounded with orchards planted on the beautiful and fertile plain of the Barrady, its situation has been celebrated with enthusiasm by oriental writers, who rank the Valley of Damascus first of the four terrestrial paradises. It is two miles in length from north-east to south-west ; but its breadth is not in proportion, being extremely narrow, and it is divided into twenty-three districts. It appears formerly to have been inclosed within three strong walls, the destruction of which is announced by the prophets Jeremiah (xlix. 27.) and Amos. (i. 4, 5.) The first or innermost was the greatest in point of elevation, between which and the second was a ditch, and the third or exterior wall was the lowest. These walls had towers, some in a circular form, and others square. Mr. Rae Wilson considers the present wall, which is low and does not inclose it more than two thirds round, as standing on the site of the antient inner wall ; the others being broken down, and the ditches full of rubbish. During the crusades, the eastern part was accounted impregnable. For a short time, under the Ommiade dynasty, Damascus was the capital of the Saracen empire or khalifate : it is now the capital of a pashalik of the Ottoman empire. The streets are narrow, in order to shade the inhabitants from the heat of the sun. The houses are constructed with mud : few of them have floors of wood, or are provided with windows. In building them, the plan is to fix nails or pins of wood in the walls while they are soft, in order to suspend domestic articles thereon, as, from the frail material with which these walls are made, they would not admit the operation of a hammer. The roofs are flat like a terrace, and are spread over with a Pt. 12. DAMASCUS. kind of plaster, made firm with a roller. Many of them are surrounded with mud walls or battlements four feet in height, to prevent accidents. The better class of houses are spacious and elegant ; the entrances to all, indeed, are bad, the doors of most being so small and low as to oblige the person entering to stoop. Within there is generally a quadrangular well-paved court, containing a stone or marble tank for water, and some- times ornamented with plants, and a fountain of water. During great heats a kind of awning or veil is spread over the top of these courts. Every man's house is his castle ; and in case of an irritated mob attacking any of its oppressors, he can shut himself up in his habitation, and remain till the governing power send a force to protect him. The total population of Damascus is estimated at 150,000 souls, of whom a small proportion only is composed of Jews there are about 12,000 Christians of different sects and denominations. The remainder are Mohammedans. The Franciscan monks have a convent which bears the name of Saint Paul, the scene of whose miraculous conversion (related in the ninth chapter of the Acts of the Apostles) is pointed out to the Christian traveller, about a quarter of a mile from the eastern gate of the city : it is marked out by heaps of gravel and earth, and on the 25th day of January annually, in commemoration of this event, the Christians in Damascus walk in procession, and read the history of the apostle's conversion, under the protection of a guard furnished to them by the pacha. Not far from this spot, the part in the wall is also shown from which Paul was let down by night in a basket (after the manner of Rahab in the case of the spies, Josh. ii. 15.), in order to avoid the fury of the persecuting Jews who watched at the gate to kill him on account of his change of principles. (Acts, ix. 15.) At a small distance is exhibited the place where he rested, till some of his friends joined him in his flight. The house of Judas, in which Ananias restored sight to the apostle (Acts, ix. 17.), is a small grotto or cellar, containing a Christian altar and a Turkish praying place. The street in which this house stands, and which is called " Straight" in Acts, ix. 11., forms the principal thorough- fare in this city : it is about half a mile in length, running from east to west; but as it is narrow, and the houses project into it in several places on both sides, it is difficult to form a clear idea of its length and straight- ness. The zeal of the early Christians founded churches at Damascus ; and a magnificent cathedral, which was dedicated to Saint John the Baptist (whose head is said to be deposited here), is now converted into a mosque. It is a noble edifice, six hundred and fifty feet in length, and one hundred and fifty in breadth, and has a large and beautiful marble court with a tank of water, and granite columns of the Corinthian order, supporting arches, the upper ones being half the height of the lower, and forming a double cloister. No Christian is permitted to enter this building. The other mosques are numerous, but in point of splendour are not to be compared with those of Constantinople. Our engraving will enable the reader to form a general idea of this celebrated city : it is taken from the tomb of a Turkish santon or saint, situated on the plain in which Damascus stands. m i * Maundrell's Travels, pp. 164 — 180. Dr. Richardson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 460 — 496. Rae Wilson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 115 — 134. Carne's Letters from the East, pp. 374 — 386. Madox's Excursions in the Holy Land, &c. vol. ii. pp. 123 — 131. -i S3 © KHONOS, THE ANTIENT COLOSSI. Drawn by W. Bnornrnov, F.R.S from a Sketch made on the spot by the Rev. F. V. J. Arindell. Colossje was a city in the province of Phrygia Magna, in Asia Minor : it was situated on a hill near the junction of the rivers Lycus and Meander, and not far from the cities of Hieropolis and Laodicea. With these cities it was overwhelmed by an earthquake about A.D. 65; before which time, however, a church had been planted there, as is evident from the Epistle of Saint Paul, still extant, which is addressed to " the saints and faithful in Christ, which are at Colossae." (Col. i. 2.) Although the apostle had twice visited the northern part of Phrygia, it does not appear that he had ever been at this place. Under the Byzantine emperors, Colossae, being in a ruinous state, made way for the modern town of Chonoe, which was built at a short distance from it, but was afterwards burnt by the Turks. Some remains of Colossae, and its more modern successor, are to be seen near each other on the site called Khonos, or Canessi, by the Turks, to the north- east of Laodicea. Khonos is a village containing about two hundred Greek families : it is situated, most picturesquely, near the river Meander, under the immense range of Mount Caucasus, which rises to a very lofty and per- pendicular height above it. On the summit of the castle, which is seen nearly in the centre of our engraving, the reverend and learned traveller (to whom we are indebted for our view) states, that there are several fragments of old walls, but none of very antient date. On the eastern side, the village is of considerable extent ; and the multitude of fragments of marble pillars almost upon every terraced roof, where they are used as rollers, proves the existence of a very antient town. The ruins of Colossae are more to the west. The Rev. Mr. Arundell observed a place where a number of large squared stones were scattered about, which seemed to have been a small church. Passing through several fields, in which were many more stones, he noticed an imperfect inscription ; and Pt. 23. KIJON'OS. not far off, he was informed, that there were the remains of two churches. Beyond these he came to a level space, elevated above the fields below : here he noticed many vestiges of an antient city, arches, &c. ; and the whole of this and the adjoining ground was strewed with broken pottery. *„* Rev. F. V. J. Arundell's Visit to the Seven Churches of Asia, pp. 94 — 98. Col. Leake's Tour in Asia Minor, p. 254. LAODICEA. Drawn by W. Brockedon, from a Sketch made on the spot by the Rev. V. J. Arundell. Laodicea was one of the largest cities in the province of Phrygia Magna, at the commencement of the Christian sera ; though, originally, it was an inconsiderable place. This increase was chiefly owing to the fertility of its surrounding soil, and to the munificent bequests and donations of various opulent individuals. Its earlier name was Diospolis ; but after it had been enlarged by Antiochus II., King of Syria, it was called Laodicea, in honour of his consort Laodice. Situated on a volcanic eminence, this city was frequently exposed to earthquakes, in common with the surrounding towns and villages. Its inhabitants derived great profit from the sale of the fine wools produced by their flocks, which fed in the adjacent plains. In the early age of Christianity, Laodicea possessed a flourishing church, St. Paul's zeal for which is attested by the mention which he makes of it in his Epistle to the Colossians : — "I would that ye knew what great conflict I have for you, and for them at Laodicea, and for as many as have not seen my face in the flesh." (ii. 1.) And " when this epistle is read among you, cause that it be read also in the church of the Laodiceans ; and that ye likewise read the epistle from Laodicea." (iv. 16.) From the mention here made of the epistle from Laodicea, it has been conjectured that the Apostle had written a special letter to the converts in that city, which is now lost ; but it is with more probability supposed that he refers to another of his epistles, either that to the Ephesians or the first Epistle to Timothy. The book of the Revelation of St. John contains a severe rebuke of the Laodiceans for their lukewarmness and worldly-mindedness, and threatens them with that ruin, which has been so completely accom- plished. (Rev. iii. 14 — 19.) In our engraving, several arches of a once magnificent aqueduct are seen ; and the remains of an amphitheatre and other edifices attest the antient splendour and extent of Laodicea. Inscribed altars, columns, friezes, and cornices, are dispersed among the houses and burying-grounds. The doom of the church at Laodicea seems to have been more severe and terrible than that of the other Pt. 20. LAODICEA. apocalyptic churches. Not a single Christian is said to reside at Laodicea, which is even more solitary than Ephesus. The latter city has a prospect of a rolling sea or a whitening sail to enliven its decay ; the former sits in widowed loneliness. Its temples are desolate, and the stately edifices of antient Laodicea are now peopled by wolves and jackals. The prayers of the Mohammedan mosque are the only prayers heard near the yet splendid ruins of the city, on which the prophetic denunciation seems to have been fully executed in its utter rejection as a church. * # * Dr. Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, vol. ii. pp. 38 — 41. Arundell's Visit to the Seven Churches, pp. 84 — 90. Leake's Tour in Asia Minor, p. 44. Emerson's Letters from the ^Sgean, vol. i. pp. 180. 219. fcj V 4 I EPHESUS. (Ruins of the Temple of Diana.) Drawn by J. D. Harding, from a Sketch made on the spot by W. Page, Esq. Ephesus was a celebrated city on the western coast of Asia Minor, situ- ated between Smyrna and Miletus, on the sides and at the foot of a range of mountains which overlooked a fine plain watered and fertilised by the river Cayster. Among other splendid edifices which adorned this metropolis of Ionia was the magnificent temple of Diana, which was two hundred and twenty years in building ; and was reckoned one of the seven won- ders of the world. This edifice having been burnt by the incendiary Herostratus, B. C. 356, in the foolish hope of immortalising his name, it was afterwards rebuilt with increased splendour at the common expense of the Grecian states of Asia Minor. The remains of antient Ephesus have been discovered by learned modern travellers at the Turkish village of Ayasaluk. The ruins delineated in our engraving com- prise all that is supposed now to exist of this far-famed structure, which in the time of St. Paul had lost nothing of its magnificence. Here was preserved a wooden statue of Diana, which the credulous Ejmesians were taught to believe had fallen from heaven (Acts xix. 35.), and of this temple small silver models were made, and sold to devotees. (Acts xix. 24.) Nero is said to have plundered this temple of many votive images and great sums of gold and silver. This edifice appears to have remained entire in the second century : though the worship of Diana diminished and sunk into insignificance, in proportion to the extension of Christianity. At a later period " the temple of the great goddess Diana, whom Asia and all the world" worshipped (Acts xix. 27.), was again destroyed by the Goths and other barbarians ; and time has so completed the havoc made by the hand of man, that this mighty fabric has almost entirely disappeared. During three years' residence in this city (Acts xx. 31.), the great apostle of the Gentiles was enabled, with divine assistance, to establish the faith of Christ, and to found a flourishing Christian church. Of his great care of the Ephesian community strong proof is extant in the affecting charge which he gave to the elders, whom he had convened at Miletus on his return from Macedonia (Acts, xx. 16 — 38.); and still more in the epistle which he addressed to them from Rome. Pt. 10. EPHESUS. Ecclesiastical History represents Timothy to have been the first Bishop of Ephesus, but there is greater evidence that the apostle John resided here towards the close of his life : here, also, he is supposed to have written his Gospel, and to have finally ended his life. Besides the ruins which are delineated in our engraving, widely scattered and noble remains attest the splendour of the theatre mentioned in Acts xix. 31., the elevated situation of which on Mount Prion acounts for the ease with which an immense multitude was collected, the loud shouts of whose voices, being reverberated from Mount Corissus, would not a little augment the uproar caused by the populace rushing into the theatre. The Ephesian church is the first of the ' apocalyptic churches' addressed by the apostle John in the name of Jesus Christ. " His charge against her is declension in religious fervour (Rev. ii. 4.); and his threat, in consequence (ii. 5.), is a total extinction of her ecclesiastical brightness. After a protracted struggle with the sword of Rome and the sophisms of the Gnostics, Ephesus at last gave way. The incipient indifference, censured by the warning voice of the prophet, increased to a total forgctfulness ; till at length the threatenings of the Apocalypse were fulfilled ; and Ephesus sunk with the general overthrow of the Greek Empire, in the fourteenth century." The plough has passed over this once celebrated city : and in March, 1826, when it was visited by the Rev. Messrs. Arundell and Hartley, green corn was growing in all directions amid the forsaken ruins : and one solitary individual only was found, who bore the name of Christ, instead of its once flourishing church. Where assembled thousands once exclaimed ' Great is Diana of the EphesiansI' the eagle now yells, and the jackal moans. The sea having retired from the scene of desolation, a pestilential morass covered with mud and rushes, has succeeded to the waters, which brought up the ships laden with merchandise from every country. The surrounding country, however, is both fertile and healthy: and the adjacent hills would furnish many delightful situations for villages, if the difficulties were removed which are thrown in the way of the industrious cultivator by a despotic government, oppressive agas, and wandering banditti. %* Fisk's Journal, in the Missionary Herald for 1821, p. 319. Hartley's Journal in the Missionary Register for 1827, pp. 290—292. Arundell's Visit to the Seven Churches, pp. 27—56., and his Discoveries in Asia Minor, vol. ii. pp. 252—260. Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, vol. i. pp. 372 374. © ■>. s ROME. THE MAMERTINE PRISON, IN WHICH SAINT PETER AND SAINT PAUL WERE CONFINED. Drawn, and sketched on the spot, by W. Linton. The city of Rome is in some respects the most celebrated on earth, as it was long the mistress of the heathen world ; and for many centuries was the ecclesiastical capital of the Christian world. It was founded by Romulus 752 or 753 years before Christ, and for a time was governed by kings, who were succeeded by two consuls annually elected. This form of government subsisted for many centuries, and indeed after the real power had passed into the hands of a sovereign. Julius Caesar first acquired the supreme power, though he refused the name of emperor ; which however was assumed by his nephew and successor Augustus. The succeeding Roman emperors, who ruled over the whole of the then known world, were, for the most part, only distinguished by their crimes and their licentiousness ; until Constantine embraced Christianity, and made it the religion of the empire. By transferring the seat of the imperial government to Constantinople, he gave a fatal blow to the power and political influence of Rome ; which eventually became the ecclesiastical metropolis of the Latin church, and, under the popes or bishops of Rome, acquired an immense power, that still subsists in those countries whose inhabitants are in communion with the Latin or Romish church ; but which has received its death wound through protestantism and the consequent enlightening of the popular mind. Rome, however, still continues to attract numberless visitors, by the magnificent ruins of its former greatness which yet remain. Among these antient structures, the Mamertine Prison claims particular notice, it being considered the oldest building in the city. This prison derives its name from Ancus Martius*, the fourth king of Rome : Servius Tullius, the sixth king of Rome, added a lower cell, which was called the Tullianum. Sir William Gell, however, is at issue with the modern antiquaries of Rome, and is of opinion that it was not constructed by Tullius. This unquestionable monument of antient Rome is situated behind the arch of Septimius Severus, and on the declivity of the Capitoline Hill, not far from the church of S. Nicola in Carcere. By the aid of torches, the visitor descends under the little church of S. Giuseppe de Falegnami (built in 1539), by some modern steps, to * Mamers, in the Oscan language, is Mars ; as Mamercus, or Mamertinus, answers to the adjective Martius. — Burgess's Antiquities of Rome, vol. i. p. 342. note. Pt. 13. ROME. the upper compartment, which is now formed into an orator)-. It is constructed of large masses of peperine stone, probably so called from the town of Piperno, the antient Privernum, where it is found in great abundance, or from the black spots on it resembling pepper. These stones are put together without cement. The upper cell is about twenty-seven feet by nineteen feet and a half, and nearly fourteen feet in height, and has evidently been hewn out of the solid rock. Descending by a few steps more, we arrive at the lower cell, delineated in our engraving, which is only about six feet and a half in height, and nineteen feet by nine. Sir William Gell considers it to be the more antient, because it supports the superstructure. It is formed (he states) by three courses of approaching stones laid horizontally, and not on the principle of an arch. " They are strangely united by cramps of iron, so that they are together as one flat stone, lightened by a slight curvature below, and perhaps in a great measure depending for support on the weight of the walls of the upper structure." Through the circular aperture commu- cating with the upper chamber, it appears that prisoners, who were condemned to be strangled or to die of hunger, were thrust down into this lower cell. Here, to omit the names of other prisoners of note, Jugurtha was suffered to die of hunger. Numbers of devotees are continually kneeling before the lower prison, where tradition states that the apostles Peter and Paul were confined by order of Nero ; and where the fountain or well of water (which is seen on the ground in our engraving) miraculously appeared for Peter, to baptise his gaoler, Processus and Martinianus, and forty-seven com- panions. Nay, the very pillar to which the apostle Peter is said to have been bound is now shown to the credulous multitude, and is also seen in our engraving. Saint Paul's first confinement at Rome is alluded to in Acts, xxviii. 16 : his second epistle to Timothy has several references to his second imprisonment in that city, where ecclesiastical history attests that both these apostles suffered martyrdom, A. D. 65. Numerous excavations have of late years been made throughout Rome, which are still in progress ; the results have been the bringing to light of many important remains of antient art. The population of the modern city has varied considerably at different times: in 1832 it contained 151,000 persons. " The population is kept up by the influx of strangers : for the deaths exceed the births in the proportion of 5100 to 4725 per annum. The paupers vary in number from 15,000 to 30,000." * # * Dr. Burton's Description of the Antiquities of Rome, vol. i. pp. 28—33. 35. Burgess's Topography and Antiquities of Rome, vol. i. pp. 342 — 345. Sir W. Gell's Topography of Rome and its Vicinity, vol. ii. pp. 407 — 413. PATMOS. Drawn by J- D. Harding, from a Sketch made on the spot by Dr. Sinclair. Patmos, now called Patimo or Patmosa, is a small island in the ^Egean sea, between twenty-five and thirty miles in circumference. Its aspect is forbidding and cheerless ; and the shores are in most places steep and precipitate. The Romans used this barren spot as a place of exile: hither the apostle John was sent " for the word of God and for the testimony of Jesus Christ" (Rev. i. 9.) ; and here he wrote the Apoca- lypse or Revelation which bears his name. It is not known how long his banishment continued ; but it is generally supposed that he was released on the death of Domitian, which happened A. D. 96, when he retired to Ephesus. The Acropolis, or Citadel, of antient Patmos, was discovered in February, 1817, by the Rev. Mr. Whittington, on the summit of a hill which rises precisely on the narrow isthmus that unites the two divisions of the island, and separates the principal harbour from port Merica. After some research he discovered very considerable remains of a large fortress. This rock or hill is not so lofty as that on which the modern town and monastery are built ; but its singular situation between two ports renders it even more commanding. These remains lie on the northern side of the hill ; and from the nature of the ground the fortress must have formed an irregular triangle. The wall appears to have been seven feet thick, and the towers measure fourteen feet in front. The surface of the soil in its neighbourhood is much heaped with piles of ruins ; and the whole area is thickly strewn with fragments of antient pottery. This island is described by Mr. Emerson (who visited it a few years since) as having every appearance of being of volcanic origin, and consisting of a rugged rock with a sprinkling of soil and a slight covering of verdure; which, with the sterility of the earth and the baking heat of the sun, is so crisp as almost to crumble in the hand. Here are very numerous churches, many of which are opened only on the anniversary festival of the saints to whom they are respectively dedicated. The modern town of Patmos, which is the only one on the island, and the monastery of Saint John, crown the summit of the hill which is seen in our engraving, about three quarters of an hour's walk from the sea shore, and which commands a very extensive prospect over the surround- ing islands. The monastery consists of a number of towers and bastions, having much more the air of a military than a monastic edifice : it is Pt. 23. PATMOS. said to have been erected by Saint Christodoulos, in honour of the apostle John, and under the auspices of the Byzantine emperor, Alexis Comnenes, in the year 1117, in order to serve at once as a residence for the brethren of Saint John, and as a protection to the inhabitants against the incursions of pirates. It now contains accommodation for a numerous society of monks, who are under the protection of the bishop of Samos : by the special permission of the grand mufti at Constantinople they enjoy the rare privilege of a bell, to summon the brethren to their de- votions; while almost all the other religious foundations in the East — the monastery on Mount Athos not excepted — are forced to convene their inmates to prayers by the striking a hammer against a crooked bar of iron. This much envied privilege of the monks of I'atmos is ascribed to the high veneration in which the Turks are said to hold the character of Saint John. Like most of the Greek churches, the church belonging to the monastery is gaudy, without either taste or elegance. Both the vestibule and the interior are painted with semi-Chinese heads of Christ and of the apostles ; and the 1'auagia, or Virgin Mary, appears in everj corner. The library of tin- monks contains a few printed books, chiefly the works of the Greek fathers, and also a considerable number of manuscripts, which seem to have been assorted and preserved witli care. The hermitage of Saint John lies about midway between the beach and the convent: it is approached by a rugged pathway, one side of which incloses, or rather is formed by, the sacred cave in which the evangelist wrote his Revelations. Before the erection, according to Mr. Emerson, it must have been father an exposed situation, as it is pierced but a very slight way into the rock ; and as the monks carry on a very profitable traffic by disposing of pieces of the stone for the cure of diseases, a great portion of the present excavation may be attributed to their industry. Two chinks in the rock above are pointed out as the apertures through which Saint John received the divine communications. Thej are deemed to be incomparably sacred ; and, in point of sanctity, are second only t" the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. The inhabitants of Patmos are about four thousand in Dumber, and their appearance is perfectly consonant to the barren aspect of the island ; the men being clad in dirty cotton rags, and the women (who are hand- some) being literally bundles of tilth. * # * Dr. Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, veil. i. p. 412. Walpole's Travels in various Countries of the East, pp. -13 — 45. Emerson's Letters from the /Sgean, vol. ii. pp. 17 — '21. Hardy's Notices of the Holy Land, &e. p. 302. Burgess's Greece and the Levant, vol. ii. pp. 25 — L'K. SMYRNA. Drawn by J. D. Harding, from a Sketch made on the spot by W. Page, E -'I- Smyrna, situated at the extremity of a beautiful bay on the coast of Asia Minor, was one of the principal cities of the antient region of Ionia : its early history is involved in some obscurity. According to the geographer Strabo, it derived its name from an Amazon, so called ; who having conquered Ephesus, had in the first instance transmitted her appellation to that city. The Ephesians afterwards founded the town to which it has since been appropriated. Herodotus, however, states that Smyrna originally belonged to the ^Eolians, who received into the city some Colophonian exiles. These subsequently taking advantage of a festival held without the town, to which festival the Smyrnseans resorted in great numbers, shut the gates and became masters of the place. From that time Smyrna ceased to be an vEolian city, but was received into the Ionian confederacy. Of all the different cities, which laid claim to the honour of being the birth-place of Homer, Smyrna seems to assert her claim to that distinction, with the greatest zeal and plausibility. Though the Smyrnaeans successfully resisted the attacks of Gyges king of Lydia, they were subjugated by his descendant Alyattes ; and in consequence of this event the city sunk into decay, and was deserted for the space of four hundred years. Alexander proposed to rebuild it : which design was carried into effect by Antigonus and Lysimachus, the latter of whom completed the new city ; the streets of which are said to have been remarkably handsome, being well paved, and drawn at right angles. Numerous fine porticoes, temples, theatres, and a public library, with the splendid and lofty acropolis, rendered it one of the most beautiful cities of Ionia. Various grants and privileges were conferred upon the Smyrnaeans by the Roman senate, for the part which they had taken during the wars with Antiochus and Mithridates. Under the Roman emperors, Smyrna flourished greatly ; and its schools of eloquence and philosophy were held in considerable repute. Under the Greek emperors Smyrna experienced great vicissitudes. Having been taken by Tzachas, a Turkish chief, towards the close of the eleventh century, it was nearly destroyed by a Greek fleet under the command of John Ducas : the emperor Comnenus subsequently restored it, but it again suffered very severely from a siege which it sustained against the forces of Tamerlane. Not long after this event it fell into the hands of the Turks, in whose possession it has remained ever since. Modern Smyrna, by the Turks called Ismir, is beautifully situated at the foot of a lofty mountain, that stretches along the shore to a great extent, and has upon its summit the castellated building seen on the right Pt. 15. SMYRNA. of our engraving, which looks towards the bay. From this elevation the prospect is truly grand ; and this is perhaps the finest port in Asia, as a large fleet might ride in it, and vessels receive and discharge their cargoes close to the shore. Upon this mountain was founded one of those churches which became the peculiar care of the apostle John, who addressed to its angel (presiding minister or bishop) the solemn admonitions in Rev. ii. 8 — 11. This church is dedicated to Polycarp, the first bishop of Smyrna, who suffered martyrdom here A. D. 166, being committed to the flames. The population is commonly estimated at 100,000 or 110,000 ; but the Rev. John Hartley, who was here in the year 1825, is of opinion that it is greatly overcharged. He thinks that Smyrna does not contain many more than 75,000 inhabitants ; of whom about 45,000 are Turks, 10,000 Greeks, 8000 Armenians, 8000 Jews, and less than 1000 Europeans of different nations. The English residents may be upwards of one hundred: they dwell in the British factory, which is very extensive, and is enclosed with gates. The streets are narrow, and many of the houses, which are built of clay, are low ; most of them have roofs of pantiles, some of which are flat, while others are gaudily painted. There are twenty mosques : the Greeks have three churches ; the Armenians, one ; the Latins, two ; and the Protestants, two : the Jews have eight synagogues. Frank Street, where the Europeans reside, and in which many sign-boards are exhibited, is by far the best street in Smyrna : by the English it has been named Bond Street ; but the Turks call it Ghul Mahala, or the Rose Quarter. Smyrna has been subject to several awful visitations. In 1743 it was destroyed by fire, and in 1750 by an earthquake ; in 1752, 1758, and 1760, it was depopulated by plague ; fire again consumed almost the whole of it in 1763, 1769, and 1778; and in 1814 there were 40,000 persons cut off by the plague. Earthquakes and the plague, indeed, are the great calamities of this place : the condition of the Christians residing here (which is not the most secure under the Turkish government) is said to be better than in that of any other of the sites of the Seven Churches mentioned in the Apocalypse, as if the promise was still in some measure made good to Smyrna : — " Fear none of those things which thou shalt suffer Be thou faithful unto death, and I will give thee a crown of life." (Rev. ii. 10.) *„* Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, vol. i. pp. 337 — 341. Hartley's Re- searches in Greece and the Levant, p. 247. Rae Wilson's Travels, vol. ii. pp. 226 — 229. Madox's Excursions in the Holy Land, &c. vol. i. p. 29. PERGAMUS. Drawn by A. W. Callcott, from a Sketch by Charles Barry, Esq. Pergamos, or Pergamus, was the antient metropolis of Mysia, and the residence of the Attalian kings, who collected here a noble library, con- taining two hundred thousand volumes, which was afterwards transported to E^ypt by Cleopatra, and added to the library at Alexandria. It is situated on the right bank of the river Ca'icus, about sixty miles to the north of Smyrna. Against the church at Pergamus was adduced the charge of partial instability ; but to its wavering faith was promised the all-powerful pro- tection of God. (Rev. ii. 12 — 17.) The errors of Balaam, and of the Nicolaitans have been purged away ; Pergamus has been preserved from the destroyer; and three thousand Christians, out of a population of fourteen or fifteen thousand inhabitants, now cherish the rites of their holy religion in the same spot where it was planted by the Apostle Paul ; though the poor Greeks are restricted to one small and mean church, under the Acropolis, or citadel of the antient city, where the hymn of praise to their Redeemer is whispered, rather than sung, for fear of offending the fanatical Turks. Numerous antient ruins of a fortress, a theatre, and a naumachia, attest the magnificence of this once royal city. The modern town of Bergamo is seen through the magnificent arch on the right of our en- graving. It lies partly on the slope of the hill, and partly in the plain. On the summit of the hill, upon the left, is the Acropolis, on which is a castle nearly covering its whole summit, including about eight acres, to- gether with some remains of a heathen temple. A neighbouring cemetery has, for ages, been supplied with marble embellishments from the theatre, which are collected in great profusion to ornament the graves, near to which, if not on that site itself, was once placed the celebrated Temple of jEsculapius, which, among other privileges, had that of an asylum. Here also are massive ruins of the church of Agios Theologos, conjectured to be one of those which the emperor Theodosius caused to be erected. There is another antient church in the town, that of Saint Sophia, which about thirty years since was desecrated by being converted into a Turkish Pt. 3. PERGAMUS. mosque. The scenery from the Acropolis is grand, but sad. The fine plain before Pergamus, which seems ready to start into fertility at a touch, is sparingly cultivated, except on the very edges of the town ; but that touch is wanting. The unrestrained flood-courses of the Cai'cus and its tributary streams have cut the plain into broad sandy veins. In 1828, when this place was visited by Mr. Macfarlane, a collection, in a Greek school, of about fifty volumes, in Romaic, or modern Greek, was called " the library," and represented the antient store of two hundred thousand volumes, which had been formed by the munificent monarchs of Pergamus : and a dirty little Italian quack, ignorant and insolent, was head practitioner of medicine in the city which gave birth to Galen, and of which iEsculapius was the tutelary divinity. The town was as dull as the grave, except during the night, when, as it happened to be the Ramazan of the Turks, there was some stir among the Mohammedan portion of the inhabitants. * # * Macfarlane's Seven Apocalyptic Churches, pp. 12 — 19; Arundell's Visit to the Seven Asiatic Churches, pp.281 — 290.; Emerson's Letters from the j£gean, vol. i. p. 216. SARDIS. Drawn by C. Stanfield, from a Sketch made on the spot. Sardis, or Sardes, the capital of the country of Lydia, in Asia, was a city of great antiquity, the founder of which is not certainly known. It was situated in a fertile plain, at the foot of the northern slope of Mount Tmolus ; which rears its majestic head in the background of our engraving, and commands an extensive view over the circumjacent country. The river Pactolus (now an insignificant brook), which is also seen in our view, flowed through the forum. To the south of the plain, on which Sardis was erected, stood the temple of Cybele, the fabled mother of the gods according to pagan mythology : it was a very antient and magnificent edifice, constructed of white marble. Of this temple the two noble columns which are delineated in the foreground of our engraving, together with a few mutilated fragments of other columns, scattered on the sward or sunk in it, are all that now remain : these columns are buried nearly to the half of their height in the soil, which has accumulated in the valley since their erection, most probably by the destruction of the continually crumbling eminence, on which stood the acropolis or citadel. The columns which have been destroyed have been blown up by gunpowder, reduced to blocks, and sold to masons and cutters of tombstones : and as other materials are wanted, the two columns which are yet standing in all probability will be blasted in the same manner ; and the traveller, who may hereafter visit this spot, will vainly seek for a vestige of the Sardeian temple of Cybele. After experiencing various fortunes, Sardis became a great and flourishing city in the reign of Croesus king of Lydia, by the fame of whose riches and hospitality men of talents and learning were attracted thither. On the overthrow of this monarch by Cyrus, b. c. 5&5, Sardis continued to be the chief town of the Persian dominions in this part of Asia. On the revolt excited by Aristagoras and Histiceus, the Ionians with the aid of an Athenian force surprised this city, except the citadel, which was defended by a numerous Persian garrison. Though burnt to the ground on this occasion, Sardis was again rebuilt ; and, soon after the defeat of the Persians at the battle of the Granicus, it surrendered to Alexander the Great, who commanded that the Lydians should regain their liberty, and resume their antient laws and usages. During the reigns of the Greek sovereigns in Asia, this city sustained numerous reverses ; and from Antiochus, the last king of Syria, it passed into the possession of the Romans, having surrendered to the two Scipios, b. c. Pt. 11. SARDIS. 187. Sardis was indebted to the emperor Tiberius for its restoration, after a disastrous earthquake, which had reduced it to a heap of ruins. We have no information, in the New Testament, at what time Christi- anity was planted at Sardis ; but probably it was not long after Saint Paul had founded the church at Ephesus ; and there can be little doubt that the metropolis of Lydia is included in Saint Luke's declaration, that " all they which dwelt in Asia heard the word of the Lord Jesus, both Jews and Greeks" (Acts xix. 10.) ; and also in the salutation of " all the churches of Asia." (1 Cor. xvi. 19.) This is rendered manifest by the book of Revelation, where Sardis is expressly named among the seven churches of that province. When the warning voice was addressed " unto the angel" or bishop " of the church in Sardis," it was evidently in a declining state. (Rev. iii. 1 — 5.) Subsequently, this city became the seat of a bishopric ; and ecclesiastical history mentions more than one council as having been held here. Sardis continued to be a flourishing city, through the Roman Emperors, to the close of the Byzantine dynasty. In the eleventh century the Turks took possession of it, and, two centuries later, it was nearly destroyed by Tamerlane. This once-celebrated capital of the Lydian kings is now reduced to a wretched village called Sort, consisting of a few mud huts occupied by Turkish herdsmen, and erected in the midst of extensive ruins ; among which Lieut. Col. Leake observed the remains of a large Christian church. " If " (says the Rev. Mr. Arundell, who visited this place in 1833) " I should be asked what impresses the mind most strongly on beholding Sardis, I should reply, its indescribable solitude, like the darkness in Egypt, — darkness that could be felt. So the deep solitude of the spot, once the ' Lady of kingdoms,' produces a corresponding feeling of desolate abandonment in the mind, which can never be forgotten. Connect this feeling with the message, in the Apocalypse, to the church of Sardis : — ' Thou hast a name that thou livest, and art dead I will come on thee as a thief, and thou shalt not know at what hour I will come upon thee.' (Rev. iii. 1.3.) And then look around and ask, ' Where are the churches, where are the Christians of Sardis?' The tumuli beyond the Hermus reply, ' All dead,' suffering the infliction of the threatened judgments of God." * # * Dr. Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, vol. '. pp. 443 — 448. Lieut-Col. Leake's Journ il of a Tour in Asia Minor, pp. 265. 346 — 348., in which there is a ground plan and elevation of the temple of Cybele. Macfarlane's Seven Apocalyptic Churches, pp. 25 — 34. Arundell's Discoveries in Asia Minor, vol. i. p. 28. PHILADELPHIA. Drawn by W. Brockedon, from a Sketch made on the spot by the Rev. F. V. J. Arusdell. Philadelphia was a very considerable city of Lydia, in Asia Minor, which derived its name from its founder, Attalus Philadelphus, brother of Eumenes, king of Pergamus. It stands in the plain of the Hermus, about midway between that river and the termination of Mount Tmolus. Besides the Hermus, which divides the plain, numerous brooks and rills give beauty, verdure, and fertility to the neighbourhood ; which, however, is but little cultivated. This city has, at various times, suffered greatly from earthquakes. Tacitus mentions it among the towns restored by Tiberius after a more than ordinary calamity of this kind. (Annal. lib. ii. c. 47.) Not long before the date of the apocalyptic epistle (Rev. iii. 7 — 13.) Philadelphia had suffered so much from earthquakes, that it had been in a great measure deserted by its inhabitants, which may, in some degree, account for the poverty of its church, as described in that epistle. " Philadelphia appears to have resisted the attacks of the Turks, in 1312, with more success than other cities. At a distance from the sea, forgotten by the emperor, encompassed on all sides by the Turks, her valiant citizens defended their religion and freedom above fourscore years, and at length capitulated with the proudest of the Ottomans (Bajazet) in 1390. Among the Greek colonies and churches of Asia, Philadelphia is still erect — a column in a scene of ruins." * Whatever may be lost of the spirit of Christianity, there is still the form of a Christian church in this city ; which is now called Allah-Shehr, or the City of God, by the Turks, and which possesses a few remains of heathen antiquity. Philadelphia is now a considerable town spreading over the slopes of three or four hills. Many remains of the walls, which once encompassed it, are now standing, but with large gaps : the materials of its fortifi- cations are small stones with strong cement. The Rev. Mr. Arundell (by whom our view was sketched) is of opinion, that these walls are not much older than the last days of the lower empire, if indeed they are so * Gibbon's Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire, vol. xi. p. 438. Pt. IT. PHILADELPHIA. antient. He describes the passage through the streets as being filthy in the extreme ; though the view of the place, as the traveller approaches it, is very beautiful. The prospect from the hills is magnificent: highly cultivated gardens and vineyards lie on the back and sides of the town, and before it is one of the richest and most extensive plains in Asia. Philadelphia contains about three hundred houses occupied by Greeks, and nearly three thousand whicli are inhabited by Turks. There are twenty-five churches, in five only of which divine service is performed once every week : in the larger number it is celebrated but once a year. A solitary fragment is shewn as the remains of the church of the apoca- lypse, dedicated to Saint John. * # * Dr. Cramer's Description of Asia Minor, vol. i. pp. 456, 457. Rev. F. V. J. Arundell's Visit to the Seven Churches of Asia, pp. 167 — 171.