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 Pl'BUSHKD BY G.VIRTUE.26. IVY LA .VI’. PATERNOSTER ROW 
 
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 : ' BLISHP.P nv C V 1 RTUK. 26 .IVV LAKE. 
 
 
THE 
 
 COOIv’S COMPLETE GUIDE, 
 
 ON THE PRINCIPLES 
 
 ^Frugality, Comfort, imD iSIcgance 
 
 INCLUDING THE 
 
 ART OF CARVING, 
 
 AND 
 
 THE MOST APPROVED METHOD OF SETTING-OUT A TABLE 
 
 EXPLAINED BY NUMEROUS COPPERPLATE ENGRAVINGS, 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR 
 
 PRESERVING HEALTH, AND ATTAINING OLD AGE; 
 
 WITH DIRECTIONS FOR BREEDING AND FATTENING ALL SORTS OF POULTRY, AND FOR THE 
 MANAGEMENT OF BEES, RABBITS, PIGS, &C. &C. 
 
 RULES FOR CULTIVATING A GARDEN, 
 
 AND 
 
 NUMEROUS USEFUL MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 
 
 BY A LADY, 
 
 AUTHORESS OF “COTTAGE COMFORTS. ’ 
 
 fLon&on: 
 
 GEORGE VIRTUE, 26 , IVY LANE, 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2020 with funding from 
 Getty Research Institute 
 
 https://archive.org/details/cookscompleteguiOOcopl 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The advancements which have been made in medical science 
 during the last century have necessarily led to corresponding 
 improvements in the science of gastronomy, and the Art op 
 Cooking. It has been found that many diseases have been 
 aggravated, if not caused, by an indulgence in improper food, 
 and that, on the other hand, many maladies have been pre¬ 
 vented and removed by a proper regard to diet. 
 
 The strictest attention, however, to the articles of diet will 
 be unavailing, unless due regard be paid to the preparation of 
 the aliment. It is of no use that our food consist of the finest 
 and most expensive articles, if in the process of cooking they 
 are deprived of their nutritive qualities; in fact, unless the 
 food, (whether plain or costly,) be properly cooked, instead of 
 its tending to the nourishment of the frame, it invariably pro¬ 
 duces eructations and crudities, at once offensive and dangerous 
 A knowledge of the Art of Cooking, therefore, becomes not 
 only useful, but necessary—not only a valuable accomplishment, 
 but a matter of vital importance;—and for the purpose of 
 developing the whole of the mysteries of the culinary art, The 
 Cook’s Complete Guide is submitted to the Public, in the 
 confident hope that it will be found of great utility to all who 
 value their health, and are desirous of preserving their domestic 
 comforts. 
 
 Tn the following Work, the whole Science of Cookery 
 is disclosed to the uninitiated ; and those who are disposed to 
 cultivate this useful art, will, by a careful perusal of its pages, 
 
IV 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 be enabled to prepare the most delicious viands in an econo¬ 
 mical and -wholesome manner. Nor is it confined to a mere 
 detail of the methods of dressing plain food—but clear instruc¬ 
 tions are given for preparing every kind of aliment suited to the 
 sick and convalescent, as well as for making the most relishing and 
 costly sauces, at a small expense; and thus enabling all persons, 
 not only to effect a great saving in various articles of house¬ 
 keeping, but to indulge in the pleasures and comforts of good 
 living , at a comparatively trifling cost. 
 
 In the generality of works of this description, the editors 
 have confined themselves to a detail of the English modes of 
 cooking: and few of them—from the days of the ancient and 
 highly-celebrated Mrs. Glass, to those of the more modern 
 and piquante Meg Dods —have ventured to enrich their pages 
 with descriptions of foreign cookery. Highly, however, as 
 we value these gastronomic authorities, we have taken leave to 
 depart from their practice; and our readers will find that we 
 have given a full description of the various improvements 
 which have been introduced by the most celebrated foreign 
 cooks, according to the mode now practised in the noblest and 
 wealthiest families. 
 
 Every thing calculated to increase the comforts of the fire¬ 
 side will be found treated of in our pages; and the best 
 methods of making Bread, Wine, Ale, and Beer, are described, 
 in so plain and perspicuous a manner, that any individual may 
 practise them without fear of a failure; while the Essay on 
 Brewing Ale and Beer, and making Wines, contains as much 
 information as is usually found in separate AVorks on these 
 subjects, and will prove useful to those who brew eithei large 
 or small quantities, or to those who prefer wholesome home¬ 
 made wines, to the deleterious and adulterous compounds often 
 vended for foreign wines. 
 
TABLE OF CONTENTS 
 
 PART I. 
 
 DOMESTIC ECONOMY ON 
 
 THE SIMPLEST 
 
 REMARKS ON 
 
 STYLE, 
 
 COMPREHENDIN'! 
 
 PA OKS. 
 
 Kitchen requisites 
 
 • 
 
 
 
 1— 10 
 
 Butcher’s meat, plainly dressed 
 
 
 
 c 
 
 1 
 
 Poultry 
 
 • • 
 
 
 
 50 — 0) 
 
 Baking; 
 
 • • 
 
 
 
 6)— 03 
 
 Plain Pastry 
 
 • • 
 
 
 
 63— 90 
 
 Vegetables 
 
 • • 
 
 
 
 90—112 
 
 Fish 
 
 * 
 
 • v 
 
 PART 11. 
 
 
 
 112—122 
 
 { 
 
 THE'MORE ELABORATE 
 
 PREPARATIONS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 CULINARY AIM. 
 
 Explanation of phrases 
 
 • • 
 
 
 
 124—125 
 
 Butcher’s meat in compound dishes 
 Poultry . - » 
 
 Game ...» 
 
 Fish ...» 
 
 Broths, soups, and gravies 
 Stuffings, seasonings, forcemeat, &c. 
 Curing meat, tongues, 
 
 125—192 
 
 193—220 
 
 221—234 
 
 235—283 
 
 284—378 
 
 379—404 
 
 405—418 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 Pastry ...... 
 
 Preserving . 
 
 Pickling . . 
 
 Bread, rolls, buns, biscuits, &c. . . 
 
 Cookery for the sick, infants, &c. 
 
 Miscellaneous recipes, for breakfast, luncheon and 
 supper . 
 
 Liqueurs, cordials, &c. denominated night cups 
 
 PAGES. 
 
 419—498 
 
 499—522 
 
 523—550 
 
 551—601 
 
 602—627 
 
 528—647 
 
 628—640 
 
 PART, 171. 
 
 CELLAR, DAIRY, POULTRY YARD. LABORATORY, &C. 
 
 Home-brewed beer, wines, &c 
 
 • 
 
 . 641 -702 
 
 Dairy, poultry-yard, &c. . 
 
 • 
 
 . 703—723 
 
 Bills of fare, table arrangements, and carving 
 
 . 724—741 
 
 Gardener’s calendar 
 
 • 
 
 . 742—751 
 
 Hints on health, medicines, &c. 
 
 • 
 
 752—795 
 
 Miscellaneous recipes and directions 
 
 - 
 
 790 -SI2 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING 
 
 THE PLATES. 
 
 Frontispiece to face the engraved Title Page. 
 
 Plate of Pork, Veal, &c. to face page 11. 
 
 Plate of Trussing to face page 50. / 
 
 Two Plates of Carving to face each other, between pages 738 
 and 739. 
 
 The Six Plates of Family Dinners for every Month to follcw 
 each other, and January to face Page 728. 
 
 The Binder will observe that the Table of Contents is to follow 
 the engraved Title. 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERV, 
 
 OR 
 
 COMPLETE FAMILY ECONOMIST. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 REMARKS ON KITCHEN REQUISITES. 
 
 It is an undisputed fact, that no person can work without 
 tools,* and in proportion to the completeness and fitness of 
 the tools furnished, labour is facilitated, and a more perfect 
 performance may be expected. These remarks apply, in no 
 small degree, to the humble but necessary arts of the kitchen. 
 If employers wish to have their daily food well and regularly 
 prepared, they should see to it that the cook is furnished with 
 convenient apartments, and sufficient variety of utensils, for the 
 performance of her work. A few hints on the nature of these 
 accommodations, may properly introduce the more immediate 
 subjects of this work. Nor will a word or two be misplaced, 
 in pointing out some contrivances for remedying any defici¬ 
 encies that may exist; and the care requisite to be taken by 
 the cook, of the various articles entrusted to her charcre 
 
 o 
 
 These hints, it will be understood, are designed chiefly for the 
 use of young cooks; who not finding the very article required 
 for their purpose, might not immediately think of the readiest 
 substitute; and who may not have sufficiently considered the 
 expense of the various culinary utensils with which they are 
 furnished, and the duty they owe to their employers of making 
 them last as long as possible. 
 
 A good and well-furnished kitchen, varies in its scale of 
 requirements, according to the size and style of living of the 
 family. Even the very humblest classes of society may, and 
 
 B 
 
o 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 ought to possess a decent ambition, to see themselves sur¬ 
 rounded with comforts and conveniences suited to their cir¬ 
 cumstances, the circle of which they will strive hard to extend 
 by industry and frugality. And young persons in humble 
 life may be encouraged thus to devote their self-denying 
 savings, by the observations of experience, that in household 
 utensils, good articles of their kind are always cheapest in the 
 end ; and that money spent on making a kitchen, especially a 
 kitchen fire-place, decent and convenient, is soon saved, both 
 in fuel and in daily labour, and is therefore well bestowed. If 
 a daily dinner is dressed with half the trouble and half the 
 firing that would otherwise have been required, who would 
 grudge the money expended at first upon purchasing a new 
 grate, or altering the setting of the old one ? 
 
 To begin with a cottage of the humblest class, above the 
 hovel of absolute poverty and wretchedness, a kitchen should 
 be light, lofty, and airy—the doors should be so placed as to 
 avoid a draught of air approaching the fire-place. The chimney 
 should be perfectly free from smoking. The Yorkshire grates 
 are the most convenient and economical: they may be had 
 of any size and price—from twenty-six shillings and upwards. 
 One of the lowest price measures about thirty inches in front, 
 and is divided into three equal parts; one side is occupied by 
 an oven, the other by a boiler for water, or an ironing stove— 
 all heated by a very moderate fire in the grate. The setting 
 of these grates is a very important matter to ensure their draw¬ 
 ing well, and throwing out a good heat. The cost of doing 
 a small one will be eleven or twelve shillings, large ones pro- 
 portionably higher; and if well done, in such a grate a lively 
 and strong fire may be kept at a very small expense; when 
 once it is thoroughly lit up large coals are not at all required, 
 except for roasting. All the cooking of a plain family, of 
 seven or eight persons, may be performed with a grate of 
 this size; to the practicability of which the boiler greatly 
 conduces, by affording a constant supply of hot water both for 
 cooking and cleaning, without occupying the top of the fire 
 for that purpose. 
 
 A small copper, 01 large pot, capable of containing from 
 four to six gallons, and fixed as a copper, is a very desirable 
 
KITCHEN REQUISITES. 
 
 convenience. It may be heated and kept boiling at one-third 
 the expense that it can be done over the fire, especially in 
 one of the old-fashioned fire-places. It will come in use 
 when a large quantity of soup is to be made, or a ham, or 
 other large joint of meat to be boiled; or when a larger than 
 ordinary supply of water is required; especially when there 
 are several kinds of vegetables and sauces to be prepared, and 
 perhaps frying and broiling are required as well. In such a 
 case, unless the whole top of the fire be free for these pur¬ 
 poses at least an hour before dinner time, it is impossible that 
 all should be served up hot and with punctuality. 
 
 Water should be furnished near at hand to every kitchen; 
 if possible both spring water and soft, that the cook may be 
 able to supply herself with this most important element with¬ 
 out being obliged to go out of doors. A cistern also, or sink 
 and drain to carry off dirty water are very desirable.* Exposure 
 to the air in cold or wet weather must be very injurious to a 
 person who is bustling about in the influence of a large fire. 
 For the same reason fuel should be kept near the kitchen. If 
 in either case it is otherwise, a prudent cook will provide 
 against the deficiency by standing ready, before she begins 
 cooking, a large pan or tub of soft water, and another of spring 
 water, and a scuttle or box of coals and some wood prepared 
 for use. 
 
 Every convenience should be afforded the cook for fre¬ 
 quently washing her hands—such as a bowl, soap, and rolling 
 towel or two.f Unless these be furnished and placed most 
 conveniently, and even invitingly, her employers stand a fair 
 chance of fulfilling the proverb that condemns us all to ‘ eat a 
 peck of dirt before we die.’ 
 
 * A cleanly cook need not be told that this is not the place for throw¬ 
 ing down greasy dish water, or that which has boiled vegetables. 
 
 f A tidy cook will request to have a roller and towel on each side of 
 the door; one of these she uses in her frequent washings while engaged 
 in her work, the other she keeps cleaner and uses only when thoroughly 
 cleaning herself after she has done. In like manner she has two dresser- 
 cloths—one for the morning, the other for the afternoon ; no additional 
 washing is thus made, as each will serve its turn, first for the cleaner and 
 afterwards for the dirtier use. 
 
4 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKEIIY. 
 
 The kitchen should be furnished with a dresser, over 
 which a clean cloth should be kept spread; above it are shelves 
 for dishes and plates, with hooks for jugs and butter-boats 
 beneath, if it be an open dresser, the bright stew-pans and 
 other copper utensils are arranged: and there is elsewhere a 
 closet, perhaps on the cellar stairs, for black saucepans, frying- 
 pans, &c.; but if the dresser have doors below, these common 
 things are put there, and a shelf is furnished for the better 
 articles, somewhere in sight. I never knew a good cleanly 
 cook who did not take great pride and pleasure in polishing 
 her coppers, brasses, and tins, and having them placed full in 
 riew; and such a feeling is productive of much good, and 
 ught to be indulged by her employers. The dresser drawers 
 are convenient for keeping kitchen towels, or furniture 
 brushes. 
 
 Two tables will be required—one of them large with two 
 flaps. Nothing bears scouring so well as deal, and kitchen 
 tables require scouring more than once in a day. A smaller 
 size will answer for the other table, which should be‘kept for 
 cleaner purposes. In clearing away dinner things, the glasses, 
 beer jugs, and fruit plates, should always be kept apart from 
 such things as are greasy;—for this and many other purposes 
 a second table is wanted: an ironing board should on no ac¬ 
 count be used for any other purpose than its own. 
 
 If there is no regular china closet or butler’s pantry, some 
 shelves, or a closet in the kitchen will be wanted for tea-things 
 and glasses. 
 
 Adjoining the kitchen, or if in it far removed from the 
 fire-place, should be a pantry for keeping raw and dresse 4 
 meat, butter, milk, lard, &c. It should be cool, shady and 
 airy—if possible fronting the north. The best kind of window 
 is of fine wire-work; it may be furnished also with a shutter 
 to close in very severe weather. If this place is large, the 
 salting of meat maybe carried on in it; if not, the coolness of 
 the cellar renders it very fit for that purpose. A closet less 
 airy, yet by no means close, or within the influence of the 
 fire, wili be required for keeping flour, spice, &c. also bread 
 and cheese, which when cut should be always kept in pans 
 covered down. 
 
KITCHEN REQUISITES. 
 
 5 
 
 A store-room is a great convenience; it should be dry, 
 airy and light, and fitted up with shelves and hooks all round; 
 if no place can be expressly allotted for this purpose, shelves 
 must be placed in the kitchen for pickles and preserves, which 
 are apt to spoil if shut up in a small closet. 
 
 A scullery or back kitchen is very desirable for washing 
 vegetables, and performing the dirtier parts of cooking, such 
 as drawing poultry and the like; also for washing dishes and 
 saucepans: indeed without some such place it is almost im¬ 
 possible to keep a kitchen clean, especially a boarded kitchen. 
 
 If pigs are kept, the oft'al of vegetables and dish-wash are 
 valuable for them, and a tub* stands ready to receive such 
 things; but a certain hour every day should be appointed for 
 removing it, and on no account passed over, or the smell will 
 become offensive to persons, and injurious to provisions. If 
 a hog tub is not kept, a tank should be provided for the pur¬ 
 pose of receiving the refuse of the kitchen. This is a pit of 
 eight or ten feet long, and three or four wide, as room may 
 admit, and about six feet deep; it is walled round with brick 
 or loose stones, and finished at top with a wood-work frame, 
 in which a door is fixed; a part of this door is cut to form a 
 smaller door, about eighteen inches long, and twelve broad, 
 with strong iron hinges, and an iron ring to lift it up by. 
 This is opened for daily use—but should be closely shut again 
 directly—the larger door is lifted up occasionally when the 
 tank requires emptying—which will be but once in several 
 years, when it will be found filled with most valuable manure; 
 in it may be thrown all kinds of animal and vegetable offal, 
 the washing of dishes, and chamber lye. If kept closely shut, 
 no unpleasant smell will arise from it. 
 
 All this is connected with kitchen convenience; many a 
 mere cottage kitchen may be found surrounded by all these 
 
 * Can it be necessary to hint to the cook that she should not from 
 daintiness, wastefulness, or carelessness, throw into this tub good pro¬ 
 visions, for which her employers must pay, and of which they may 
 one day know the want; or, what is still more likely, she herself? The 
 same may be said of the grease pot; but most mistresses wisely forbid the 
 keeping of one, and rather pay higher wages. 
 
8 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY 
 
 comforts on a small scale, and the kitchen of a nobleman can 
 but have them on a large one. 
 
 To speak more particularly of cooking utensils. For 
 roasting it will be necessary to have either a winding jack 
 and spit, or a vertical jack. If the former, in order to 
 secure its going well it must be kept clean, not scoured with 
 brick-dust or scouring paper, which would fill the cogs with 
 dirt and sand, but oiled and well wiped, and as much as pos¬ 
 sible kept covered up. There should be spits of different 
 sizes—a very small spit will not carry a large joint of meat, 
 and a large one tears to pieces poultry and other small things. 
 But spits are very much gone out of fashion, except in very 
 large families, and the vertical or bottle jack is adopted instead. 
 If well made, and kept clean and in good order, they will go 
 exceedingly well, and roast every thing required in a moderate 
 family; but their mechanism is something like that of a watch, 
 and if carelessly used, let fall, or over-wound, they are easily 
 put out of order, and not easily repaired. Even a common 
 wire-jack, with several yards of worsted doubled six or eight 
 thick, and tied in knots at the distance of two or three inches, 
 serves very well to roast with. 
 
 A good meat screen is very necessary; by reflecting the 
 fire, it saves coal, and secures the meat being better drest, 
 and not only enough done but hot done. Wooden screens 
 lined with tin, and fronting the whole fire-place, answer very 
 well, but the modern invention of a tin machine called a roaster 
 is much more convenient and effectual; it just occupies the 
 width of the fire-bars, not the whole grate, and has within itself 
 a dripping-pan, and place for hanging a roasting jack; also a 
 door at the back to open for basting and salting the meat. 
 This article is much less in the way than the heavy wooden 
 meat-screens; the cook has access to the sides of the fire-place 
 without moving it, and by opening the door can baste and salt 
 the meat without scorching herself. 
 
 A plate-warmer is a useful piece of kitchen furniture; if 
 there is not one, the plates and dishes may be warmed in the 
 oven of a Yorkshire grate, but should not be suffered to re¬ 
 main in it longer than a few minutes, as its heat is apt to crack 
 them. 
 
KITCHEN REQUISITES. 
 
 7 
 
 For boiling, the cook should be furnished with pot.? and 
 saucepans of various sizes. Copper is the most handsome and 
 durable, but the black cast-iron answers very well for constant 
 use. If copper vessels are used they should be well tinned, 
 and kept very clean, and provisions on no account suffered to 
 cool in them. For want of attention to this rule many lives 
 have been sacrificed. The rust of copper, called verdigris, 
 which forms in a very short time, is highly poisonous. On 
 one occasion several gentlemen died, and several more were 
 dangerously affected, by partaking of a stew at an inn, which 
 the cook had imprudently suffered to become cold in the cop¬ 
 per vessel in which it was prepared. It should be observed, 
 that this danger exists even though the vessel should be pro¬ 
 perly tinned. 
 
 In a moderate sized family one pot will be required to hold 
 four or five gallons—this for boiling a leg of pork or mutton 
 if not provided with a small copper for that purpose—an¬ 
 other holding three gallons will be useful for smaller joints, 
 for a long pudding, or for soup. A round pot of the same 
 size, or rather smaller, will be required for boiling round pud¬ 
 dings; and saucepans from six quarts down to a quarter of a 
 pint will be coming into daily use. For boiling fowls, or other 
 white meats not requiring long time, tin is preferable for pre¬ 
 serving the colour. For this purpose a long tin pot like a 
 fish-kettle answers best. Two or three tin saucepans, holding 
 twelve, eight, and six quarts, will be wanted for boiling green 
 vegetables. Also if the general stock of saucepans be iron, 
 one or two of block tin for boiling gruel and white soup, and 
 a small one for melting butter; copper well tinned, an¬ 
 swers for these last purposes, but whatever is used should be 
 kept for that purpose only; gruel should never be made in a 
 saucepan used for any thing greasy, neither should butter be 
 melted in a saucepan used for warming gravy. 
 
 For boiling milk or custards, a tin saucepan should be made 
 to drop within another saucepan in which is put some water, 
 m the manner of a carpenters glue-pot. A large and small 
 stew-pan will be desirable, they are usually of copper with lids 
 to fit very close. Some persons use in preference what is 
 called a digester; it certainly draws out the goodness of bones, 
 
8 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 &c. but does not produce so well-flavoured a stew as vessels 
 which draw more slowly. For this purpose a Nottingham 
 stone-ware jar with a lid is very useful, especially to those who 
 have a Yorkshire grate and oven, as a stew may be admirably 
 done in those ovens. 
 
 j| Preserving-pots and ladles are desirable where much of 
 that kind of cookery is required; but they are expensive, and 
 the end may be answered as well by x a saucepan of block tin, 
 or copper well tinned and most carefully cleaned before using. 
 
 In a considerable family three frying pans will be wanted ; 
 as it is a waste of fat and gravy to do a small thing in a large 
 pan; of these one should be round, about twelve inches in 
 diameter, this will serve for a small dish of cutlets, potatoes, 
 &c.; the next oval, about the same size across, but fitted bj 
 its length to take one soal, or any thing of that shape. The 
 third should be large enough to take a pair of soals, or a large 
 plaice. 
 
 It will also be desirable to have two gridirons of different 
 lazes; also a dutch oven, or tin bonnet with hooks, as many 
 people prefer steaks done in one of them; and it certainly is 
 a convenience if a steak is wanted in a hurry when the top of 
 the fire is black, to be able to do it in front. 
 
 A moderate sized fish-kettle will be required for boiling 
 mackarel, cod, and salmon; and a very large one, almost 
 square, for turbot, called a turbot-kettle. If soals or plaice are 
 to be boiled, a frying pan answers very well for the purpose. 
 
 Among other kitchen requisites will be a large tin colander 
 for straining greens, and two or three of smaller sizes, either 
 tin or earthenware, for straining gravy, &c.—A small white 
 hair sieve to be kept only for gruel, and one with linen can¬ 
 vass (like butter-cloths) to be tied on to the hoop and taken 
 off for washing; this is required for straining dripping or gravy, 
 for which the tin gravy strainers are not fine enough.—A 
 jelly bag or two of the thick flannel called swan-skin, used for 
 ironing blankets; they should be made wide at the top to fit 
 on a hoop, and come to a point at bottom.—Two or three 
 iron spoons of different sizes will save silver ones, which ought 
 never to be used in cooking, unless indeed there be an old 
 one expressly allowed for that purpose.—A ladle of fine wire- 
 
KITCHEN REQUISITES. 
 
 9 
 
 work is useful for taking up dumplings, and vegetables which 
 are apt to be broken and injured by pouring the water through 
 them, such as brocoli, asparagus, &c. There should also be 
 a bread-grater, flour-dredge, and earthen or glass salt-seller 
 and pepper-box on purpose for the use of the cook; tin is apt 
 to rust if touched with a warm hand. A wooden salt-box 
 should hang within the chimney-place, or as near to it as pos¬ 
 sible, as salt cannot be kept too dry. If basket-salt is used 
 in the parlour, that should be kept in a like situation; a 
 glass bottle is the best thing for rolling it fine for parlour use. 
 
 For making puddings and pastry, a large Nottingham-ware 
 bason is the best thing to mix in; a large board, slate, or 
 marble for rolling out upon: and a paste-cutter, or cutters and 
 moulds of several shapes and kinds, if fancy pastry is required. 
 A sheet or two of tin to fit the oven for baking cakes, rolls, or 
 biscuits, two or three tins of different sizes for baking pud¬ 
 dings, and small ones for cheese-cakes and tartlets. Tin 
 moulds for jellies, blancmonge, &c. Jelly-glasses and cus¬ 
 tard cups belong rather to the parlour than the kitchen; and 
 it may be taken for granted that the cook, who is furnished 
 with every thing needful for preparing a dinner, will not be 
 destitute of what is requisite for serving it up genteelly. 
 
 There should be a good supply of white dishes and plates, 
 both for kitchen use and for setting by provisions; a careful 
 cook will never suffer a dish or plate, much less a tureen or 
 butter-boat, belonging to a parlour set, to be used for either of 
 those purposes. A few red pans and platters of different 
 sizes will also be useful, and some small vessels of Nottingham 
 stone-ware for dripping; as that is the only kind of earthen¬ 
 ware that can be relied on to stand boiling fat being poured 
 into. 
 
 Two candle-boxes, one for whole candles, the other for 
 pieces, should be hung in a convenient and cool place. Three 
 knife-trays are desirable, and two spoon-travs; of the former, 
 one for taking clean knives into the parlour, another for 
 jringing out the dirty ones, and a third for keeping a few which 
 may have only cut a piece of bread or butter, and which when 
 wined answer just as well for cooking. Though indeed it is 
 best to keen a few' old knives and forks expressly for cooking 
 
10 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 purposes, and especially a large strong fork with a stag’s horn 
 handle, for taking up meat and puddings. The spoon-trays 
 should he kept one for clean and the other for dirty spoons; 
 which should always be washed separately from every thing 
 else; if washed in the dish-tub they are scratched and have a 
 sticky appearance, and if washed with tea-things and glasses, 
 give the same appearance to them, beside a strong taste. A 
 large scuttle-basket lined with tin is required for bringing out 
 dirty plates from the parlour or dining room. 
 
 These latter articles may seem to have little connexion with 
 cooking, but in reality they have a great deal. It is as im¬ 
 portant to the cook that improper things should be kept out 
 of her way, as that every thing needful should be easily found 
 in it. A nice cleanly cook cannot carry on her culinary 
 operations surrounded by dirty plates, knives, candlesticks, 
 and bits of candle; and one to whom such things are no an¬ 
 noyance, is sure to add many ingredients in her cookery, by no 
 means gratifying to the palate, or conducive to the health of 
 her employers. A good clock in or near the kitchen will 
 tend to encourage and ensure punctuality, or at least to take 
 away excuse for the want of it. 
 
 It only remains to say, that the cook should be furnished 
 with a sufficient change of cloths for every distinct purpose; 
 also mops, brushes, and brooms. Many articles not enume¬ 
 rated here are daily brought in, use in many kitchens, but the 
 kitchen that possesses these cannot be considered ill furnished* 
 and the cook who, having them, fails to perform her work satis¬ 
 factorily, would most likely do the same if her furniture were 
 multiplied tenfold. To complete the whole, we would recom 
 mend that the following admirable rules should be inscribed 
 in legible characters, and affixed in a conspicuous part of the 
 
 kitchen:— 
 
 Do every thing in its proper time; put every thing in its proper place; 
 keep every thing to its proper use. 
 
Mil i sen 
 
 Mitt ten 
 
i 11 J 
 
 • • J 
 
 , CHAPTER II. 
 
 OF butcher’s meat, plainly dressed. 
 
 Seasons, and Rules for choosing. 
 
 Mutton is in season throughout the year with the excep¬ 
 tion of a few weeks in the early part of the summer. It is a 
 just as well as common observation in the country, that from 
 the blossoming to the gathering of beans mutton is not to do 
 chosen. These things have no real connection with each 
 other, but the remark may serve to keep the season in re¬ 
 membrance. 
 
 This meat, when good, is fine in the grain, of a bright 
 colour, and the fat firm and white. It should at least have 
 attained its full growth, and if of a good sort and well fed, is 
 rather improved than injured by being older. It bears hang¬ 
 ing a considerable time before dressing, according to the season 
 of the year—in winter from four to ten days. By this plan 
 the meat will become more tender and easy of digestion; yet 
 it ought not to be carried to excess, so as either to dry away 
 its juices or suffer it to putrify. If it is designed to keep 
 meat unusually long, the best way of doing it is by hanging 
 it in a place free from air and light, such as a dark arched 
 cellar, or the sides of a well not often opened. Some people 
 have an apparatus for burying it. A leg or shoulder should 
 be hung with the knuckle downwards, by this means the 
 juices are preserved. 
 
 The joints of a sheep are—in the hind quarter, leg and 
 loin; in the fore quarter, shoulder, neck, and breast ; two 
 necks together form a chine, or collar of mutton; two loins a 
 chine; and the legs cut into the loin, so as to include the 
 chump bone, are called haunches. The head is generally 
 sold with the pluck, which consists of the liver, lights, heart, 
 sweet-hreads and melt: though in a fine sheep, which the 
 butcher thinks will do him credit, he usually leaves hanging 
 
12 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 to each neck and loin a bit of melt and liver, by tlie firm 
 healthy appearance of which a judgment may be formed of 
 the goodness of the m&sl> 
 
 % 
 
 Lamb comes in season towards the e)id of March or begin¬ 
 ning of April, (according as the season is more of'less mild 
 and favourable,) and continues good between four and five 
 months. It is sold at first only in quarters and by hand, but 
 after being in season a few weeks is sold in joints and by 
 weight; its first price is usually one shilling per pound, but it 
 gradually descends to the price of mutton, except that the hairy 
 feet continue to be weighed with the legs and shoulders, 
 which must be considered as enhancing the cost. Some lambs 
 are reared in the house, and by this means a supply is fur¬ 
 nished even throughout the winter; indeed house-lamb is 
 considered in high season at Christmas; of course the price is 
 very high. 
 
 In general it may be observed, that a short thick animal is 
 preferable to one that is tall and skinny. Early in the 
 season a lamb’s fry is reckoned a great nicety, it consists 
 of the sweet-bread, lamb-stones, and skirts, with some of the 
 liver. The head and pluck comprise the liver, lights, heart, 
 nut, and melt. 
 
 The quarters are divided in the same manner as mutton, 
 but the breast and neck, often sold together, are called a 
 target. 
 
 Lamb may be judged of by the same rules as mutton, only 
 observing that (as indeed all young meats) it should be used 
 fresh; therefore care should be taken in purchasing not to be 
 imposed upon with stale meat. In fresh-killed lamb the veins 
 of the neck and shoulders are bright and blueish. If the fat 
 have a green or yellow cast, if the knuckle is limber, or the 
 flesh flabby, or if a faint smell is perceived under the kidney, it 
 is stale. 'I he eyes should be bright and prominent, other¬ 
 wise the head is not fresh. 
 
 Beef is in season throughout the year, but is much more 
 used during the winter season, that being more favourable 
 both for salting and hanging, and unless roasting beef is hung 
 
butcher’s meat. 
 
 13 
 
 several days before dressing it is apt to eat tough. Fine 
 young ox beef will have a smooth open grain, be of a good 
 red, feel tender, and on a fresh cut part the gravy will appear. 
 The fat should be white rather than yellow, as the latter ex¬ 
 cites a suspicion of the animal having been fed upon oil cakes, 
 which render the flesh flabby and the flavour coarse. The fat 
 of cow-beef is whiter than that of ox, and the grain closer, 
 but of a paler and more dingy colour. Old meat discovers a 
 streak of horn in the ribs, and the meat is drier and poorer in 
 flavour; the thickness and hardness of this horn is in propor¬ 
 tion to the animal’s a£je. 
 
 The divisions of beef are numerous. In the fore quarter 
 we have, the haunch, which includes the clod, marrow-bone 
 shin, and sticking-piece, which is the neck end. The next is 
 the leg-of-mutton piece, which takes in part of the blade-bone; 
 then the chuck, the brisket, the fore-ribs, and middle or chuck 
 lib. The hind quarter contains the sirloin and rump, the thin 
 and thick flank, the veiny piece, (or, as it is called in some 
 places, the under-bed with the udder,) the aitch-bone, buttock, 
 mouse-buttock, and leg. The cheeks, palate, and tongue are 
 sold separately. The internal parts of this animal which are 
 used are, the heart, the kidneys, the sweet-breads, the skirts, 
 and the tripe. The skirts, which run inside tire breast, make 
 excellent steaks either for broiling or using in pies. Of the 
 tripe there are three sorts, the double, the roll, and the reed, 
 or honeycomb tripe. These, as well as cow’s heels, calf’s 
 feet, and sheep’s trotters, all of which are more or less es¬ 
 teemed, are usually prepared by persons who make it their 
 constant employ. 
 
 Veal may be had all the year round, but in very severe 
 weather is scarce and dear, and in very hot or close weather 
 is apt to decay speedily. In choosing veal it should be ob¬ 
 served that the kidney is well covered with white fat, and that 
 the veins (especially that in the shoulder) are of a bright red or 
 blue. If the kidney is seen peeping through a thin skin of 
 fat, the meat is poor; if the veins are discoloured it is stale. 
 So also, if the meat feels clammy, or is spotted or tinged 
 with various hues, or if the kidney begins to change or feel 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 n 
 
 sticky, or smell close, or the suet feel limber—these are all 
 signs of staleness. The lean meat should be dry and white, 
 and free from veins, excepting in the part above alluded to. 
 At the same time it should be observed, that though white 
 veal is the most esteemed, it is not the most juicy, as its 
 whiteness arises from frequent bleeding, and from the calf 
 having had whitening to lick. 
 
 The hind quarter of a calf consists of the leg, including 
 the knuckle and fillet, and the loin; the fore quarter is divided 
 into shoulder, neck, and breast. The head is much esteemed; 
 if wanted for mock-turtle, the butcher should be directed to 
 scald it, by which means a rich glutinous skin is preserved. 
 The heart and the liver are sometimes sold separately, or 
 sometimes with the lights, nut, melt, and sweet-breads—in 
 which case the whole is called the gulley. 
 
 Pork, comprehending both rind pork, and the lean parts 
 of bacon hogs, which are sold fresh, and in some places called 
 pig-meat. The former is always cleared of the hair by scald¬ 
 ing, the latter usually, and far preferably, by scorching. As 
 to the season for these meats, there is an old distich which 
 very truly says, 
 
 “ Oysters and pork are better far, 
 
 In any month that has an It.”, 
 
 By this rule they are excluded from the months of May, June, 
 July, and August; and if the weather is close, the exclusion 
 had better be extended rather than infringed upon. For 
 choosing these meats it may be observed, that if the rind is 
 thick, tough, and that does not readily yield to piessure, the 
 animal was old. A thin rind is always a recommendation. 
 If young, the lean will be apt to break when pinched; if fresh, 
 it will be firm, smooth, and cool; if stale, will feel clammy 
 and smell tainted. Pork which has spots about it resembling 
 measles, is very unwholesome, or, in which the fat is full of lit¬ 
 tle kernels. Dairy-fed pork is the most esteemed; such as 
 is fed by butchers on the offal of other animals is coarse and 
 strong; or fed on the refuse of a brewhouse or distillery, the 
 fat becomes spongy; or fed too much on acorns or beans, the 
 
butcher’s meat. 
 
 15 
 
 meat is hard; and as the flesh of swine when ill-fed is very 
 unwholesome, purchasers should be careful to deal only with 
 persons on whom they can rely in this respect. 
 
 The joints of a porker are as follows: the leg, the hind- 
 loin, the fore-loin, the spring, or, as it is called in some places, 
 the hand and breast. Very large porkers are sometimes cut 
 differently; the whole flankypart of the loins and spring being 
 taken off* for pickled pork, and the lean meat and bones di¬ 
 vided into chines, grisken or short-bones, and spare-rib. The 
 chine is merely the spine-bone with the meat belonging to it; 
 the length of the chine is usually divided into three pieces, 
 called the fore-chine, the middle-chine, and the tail-chine. 
 The grisken, or short-bones, is the solid meat next adjoining 
 to that of the chine, with the flat bones of the loin which pro¬ 
 ject from the vertebra, or spine-bone. The spare-rib is the 
 fore part of the neck, from which the fat and great part of the 
 meat have been taken. 
 
 Of a bacon hog, the chine, short-bones, and spare-rib are 
 taken as above described for pickled pork; also a small fillet 
 or haunch from the hind leg, which is called in some places 
 the whirly-bone, in others the rearing. The blade-bones also 
 are removed, and the hocks or joint next above the foot. The 
 legs are sometimes cured with the flitch, in which case they 
 are called gammon and hock of bacon ; but they are more fre¬ 
 quently cured separately, (especially the hind-legs,) and called 
 hams. 
 
 The liver and crow (or internal fat) of these animals are 
 sold separately; the porker’s head with the gulley, consisting 
 of lights, heart, and melt. The head of a bacon hog, if large, 
 is usually divided into chops and cheeks. The feet of a porker 
 go with the legs; those of a bacon hog form part of what is 
 called a set of souse, which includes the feet, tail, ears, snout, 
 and in some places the hocks. 
 
 In the choice of bacon and hams, (which are in season all 
 the year round,) those of a short-legged animal are always to 
 be preferred; the rind should be thin, the fat firm and tinged 
 with red, the lean tender, and adhering firmly to the bone: 
 for a ham, stick a sharp knife under the bone—if the ham be 
 good the knife will come out clean and with a pleasant smell, 
 
!C> 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKEUY. 
 
 but if the knife be sticky, and present a strong or dammv 
 smell, the ham is not good. If the lean separates from the 
 bones, it is either old meat or ill salted. If yellow spots, 
 streaks, or tinges appear on bacon, it is rusty, which is both 
 unpleasant and wasteful. 
 
 A sucking pig is much esteemed; its age should be from 
 twelve days to three weeks. If bought in the market it may 
 be chosen by its plumpness, and by the white and delicate ap¬ 
 pearance of the meat and rind; but as it should be dressed as 
 fresh as possible, the best way is to bespeak it of some one on 
 whom you can rely, and have it killed the same morning that 
 it is to be dressed; as soon as scalded by the butcher, it should 
 be wrapped in a clean damp cloth, and kept in a moist place. 
 I he pettitoes are dressed separately, with a mince of the 
 heart, liver, and lights; but sold all together. 
 
 Of Roasting in general. 
 
 In roasting, great care is required that the spit (or if a jack, 
 the hook that passes into the meat) be kept perfectly clean, 
 otherwise a black mark will appear in the meat. Be careful 
 also not to pass the spit through the prime part of the meat, 
 but slip it along the bones; and in case that this throws the 
 weight of the joint unequally, which will prevent its turning 
 properly, have leaden skewers to balance it with. 
 
 The usual rule for time to be allowed is a quarter of an 
 hour to a pound, and a few minutes over on the joint; but 
 this is not a certain rule, as much depends on the shape of the 
 joint as well as its size, and on the strength of the fire, and 
 the nearness of the meat to it. Some meats require to be 
 much more slowly and thoroughly done, others more lightly. 
 Directions will therefore be given as to making up a fire suit¬ 
 able for the kind of meat, and the time specified for each 
 joint, supposing that the fire has been properly managed. 
 
 When roasting is to be performed, the cook should consi¬ 
 der h.ow long a time the joint will require, and whether it 
 should be put down to a slow or a brisk fire; and accordingly 
 make up her fire of a proper size, and a proper time previously. 
 
BUTCHER'S MEAT-ROASTING. 
 
 17 
 
 A little attention and experience will teach any one to make 
 up a fire to come forward exactly at the time, and of the 
 strength, and to last as long as the purpose will require it; 
 and much of the success of a cook depends upon good ma¬ 
 nagement in this respect. 
 
 A considerable difference must be observed in the manage- 
 ment of the different kinds of coal. The Newcastle coal, 
 principally used about London, is sold in a mixed state, knoln 
 and small together, and requires no breaking. It should Ik 
 put on large and small together, the small a little wetted, and 
 . plenty of time be allowed for drawing up. The Staffordshire 
 coal is sold in very large pieces; when brought in, there is but 
 a small quantity of dust. The large pieces should be neatly 
 piled up, and the dust put in a separate part of the cellar; 
 when a piece of coal is to be broken, it should be placed on 
 the level ground, the edge of the coal upwards, when a few 
 good strokes of the coal-hammer, judiciously applied, will 
 shiver a large lump in pieces with very little dust. But a 
 person who has not the notion of breaking this kind of coal 
 p-operly, will haggle and thump it about with very little suc¬ 
 cess, and a vast deal of fatigue and waste. The person there¬ 
 fore whose business it is, should take pains to get the knack 
 of doing it properly. When the large piece of coal is properly 
 divided, the knobs should be put by themselves, and whatever 
 small may have been made, neatly swept up and put to the 
 heap of small. When a fire is to be made up for roasting, 
 the best way is, nearly an hour before it is wanted, to lay on 
 several large pieces of coal edgeways; by this means the pitch 
 that runs through the veins will become thoroughly heated, 
 when a very slight stroke of the poker will separate them, and 
 a strong fire with a clear front be at once furnished; a shovel 
 or two of the small coal, well wetted, should then be thrown 
 ! on the back, which will preserve the spirit of the fire and strike 
 out a good heat. This done, the bottom bars must be raked 
 out, and the whole fire-place neatly swept up before putting 
 down the meat. 
 
 way to 
 
 fire some time before putting down the meat; it causes the 
 fire to draw up, and reflects heat to the joint, which greatly 
 
 place the meat screen in front of the 
 
 It is a good 
 
13 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKEHT 
 
 promotes its being not only enough, but hot done ; reflected 
 heat neither scorches nor dries meat, and therefore is benefi- 
 cial to joints of every size and description. The meat-screen, 
 dripping-pan, basting-ladle, &c. however clean when put away, 
 will require careful dusting every time before being used. 
 
 Before roasting, the pipe that runs along a loin should be 
 taken out, as it is apt to taint; and in hot weather especially, 
 the meat should be carefully examined, and wiped clean from 
 fly-blows; and any part that may have become clammy or musty, 
 wiped or scraped off. 
 
 Salting meat before it is put to roast, draws out the juices 
 and hardens the meat, it should therefore if possible be avoid¬ 
 ed ; pork is less injured by it than any other meat. The best 
 way to keep what is to be eaten unsalted, is, as before direct¬ 
 ed, to examine it well, wipe it every day, and put some pieces 
 of charcoal over it. If meat is brought from a distance - 
 warm weather, the butcher should be ordered to cover it close, 
 and bring it early in the morning; but even then, if it is kept 
 on the road while he serves the customers who live nearest to 
 him, it will be very likely to be fly-blown. This happens 
 often in the country. 
 
 Of a sirloin of beef, or loin of mutton or veal,, part of the suet 
 may be cut off*and chopped up for puddings; as also the out¬ 
 side fat of loin or neck of mutton, which makes exceedingly 
 light crust. Indeed, to avoid waste, no more fat should be left 
 on any joint than is likely to be eaten. This will vary in dif¬ 
 ferent families; of this the cook should take notice, and act 
 accordingly—carefully making the best of what comes off—by 
 means of which butter and lard may very often be saved; and 
 there are few families in ordinary life where such savings are 
 not an object. Fat so taken off may either be used fresh for 
 puddings, or clarified, (as will be hereafter directed,) or slightly 
 cut up and melted in the dripping-pan or oven, being cleared 
 away as fast as it melts, otherwise the well of the dripping-pan 
 will overflow, and the dripping become rancid by being too 
 long exposed to the heat. When ccld, the pots should be 
 turned down to preserve the dripping from air and dust, and 
 it will keep good a long time. 
 
 Some persons put a little salt and water into the dripping- 
 
BUTCHLr’s ME a T— ROASTING. 
 
 19 
 
 pan, anti baste the meat with that for some little time before 
 using dripping; this is chiefly useful when meat is a little 
 tainted; in that case the dripping-pan must be wiped perfectly 
 dry, and the meat suffered to drip a minute or two before add- 
 Jng any other dripping. 
 
 Mutton. —-All the joints of mutton are occasionally roast¬ 
 ed ; they should be put down at a good distance from the fire, 
 and brought gradually nearer when the inner part becomes 
 hot, which will prevent its being scorched while yet raw. 
 Mutton has usually fat enough to baste itself; if, however, a 
 little is put on at first, it helps to draw out that of the meat, 
 and rather forwards the business. When nearly done a little 
 salt should be sprinkled, and a very small dust of flour; care 
 should be taken to turn the meat, so that every part may be 
 done, and no part scorched. The whole should be of a fine 
 brown, and look frothy. The shank and flap of a leg of mut¬ 
 ton (which is dried to a chip if roasted on) make excellent 
 gravy; when the dripping is poured clean off, this may be 
 rinsed round the dripping-pan to brown it. Some people pre¬ 
 fer onl) a little boiling water. 
 
 A leg or shoulder of mutton will require a very little more 
 than a quarter of an hour to a pound; a moderate sized neck 
 an hour and a half or three quarters; a loin two hours; a breast 
 an hour and a half with a brisk fire, which is necessary to draw 
 out most of the fat, otherwise a breast of mutton is so fat a 
 thing tltat few people like it. Any joint of mutton answers 
 exceedingly well to bake. Whether baked or roasted, York¬ 
 shire pudding, or potatoes browned under the meat, are in 
 general liked. The leaner joints answer best for this purpose; 
 such puddings are unpleasant if too rich. 
 
 The vegetables usually eaten with roast mutton are— 
 potatoes boiled, mashed, or browned under the meat; mashed 
 turnips, French-beans, cabbage, sea-cale, turnip-greens, bro* 
 coli, or cauliflower, spinach, and oniett sauce. 
 
domestic cookery. 
 
 20 
 
 Beef.— The roasting parts are the ribs, sirloin, and rump. 
 The sirloin is sometimes divided into three parts, the chump, 
 the middle, and the fore-end. The ribs also are divided into 
 three parts, the fore-rib, consisting of five ribs, the middle of 
 four, and the chuck of three. Beef requires a substantial but 
 not fierce fire, and should be at first placed at a distance from 
 it. The time required will be regulated by the size of the 
 joint; a piece of ten pounds will take rather above two hours 
 and a half; twenty pounds will take somewhat less than four 
 hours. The sirloin, on account of its thickness, will require ra¬ 
 ther longer than the ribs. The rump must be very slowly done 
 at first, that its great thickness of solid meat may be heated 
 through before it begins to brown. Beef will not require 
 basting, but a large paper spread with dripping should be 
 skewered over the upper side to preserve the bark from scorch¬ 
 ing, this may be removed when the meat is nearly done; salt, 
 flour, and gravy, the same as mutton. The same vegetables 
 also are suitable, with the exception of onions, and the addition 
 of h orse-radish, which should be served as a garnish. Pota 
 toes browned under the meat, or potatoe pudding, and York¬ 
 shire pudding are in great requisition with roast beef. 
 
 1 he udder and tongue are sometimes roasted together; 
 they must be salted three days with common salt and saltpetre 
 *—the udder should have some fat left to it. Boil them till 
 tolerably tender, then tie the thick part of one to the thin part 
 of the other, and roast them till of a fine brown. Serve with 
 good gravy, and currant-jelly sauqe. Some people stick them 
 with a few cloves; others prefer a stuffing like that of veal, in 
 which case the gravy is usually thickened with a little flour 
 and butter. 
 
 Beef heart must be soaked in cold water until perfectly 
 cleared of the coagulated blood; then wiped thoroughly dry, 
 stuffed as a hare, and roasted or baked. Of the two, baking, 
 vf well managed, is preferable; it will require a great deal of 
 basting, and will take two hours to do, or upwards if it be 
 large. Have ready some rich beef gravy, and let it be 
 served on a water-dish, and eaten off water-plates, as it is very 
 apt to chill; serve with it currant-jelly sauce. It makes 
 
BUT Eli’s MEAT—ROASTING. g] 
 
 an excellent hash, and either way very much resembles 
 hare. 
 
 Veal. —The roasting parts are the fillet, (both of the leg 
 and shoulder,) the loin and neck, (with the exception of the 
 scrag,) and the breast. Veal requires a quick fire, and should 
 be more thoroughly done than either mutton or beef; indeed 
 all young meats require this, as they are both unpleasant and 
 unwholesome if at all rear. The fillets are usually stuffed— 
 the pudding is fixed in with the flap; if skewers are used they 
 should be of silver; if not, the stuffing had better be sewed 
 in. Veal requires frequent basting, also rather more flour to 
 brown it than beef or mutton; when first put down, a greased 
 paper should be fixed on the rind of neck or loin. The kid¬ 
 ney, which is much esteemed, may be roasted in the loin; or, 
 if it be desired to have it browned, let it lie in the dripping- 
 pan. The breast has the sweet-bread belonging to it, which 
 should be fixed on with the caul until nearly done; then the 
 caul (which will have shrivelled up) may be removed, and the 
 sweet-bread laid in the dripping-pan to brown. All roast veal 
 should be served with a little good gravy, and plenty of melted 
 butter, and garnished with slices of lemon. The vegetables 
 that should accompany veal are, potatoes, either plain-boiled, 
 mashed, or browned, and greens of every kind ; but brocoli, as¬ 
 paragus, sea-cale, and green peas are especially esteemed with 
 roast veal. The heart may be dressed in the same manner as 
 that of beef; an hour will do it. 
 
 Lamb. —All the joints of lamb are fit for roasting. Lamb 
 requires a brisk fire; it should be quickly and thoroughly done. 
 In roasting the hind quarter, the flap of the loin is sometimes 
 rolled round as a pouch to contain a stuffing, either of force¬ 
 meat, or the more simple preparation commonly called veal 
 stuffing. When nearly done, let the dripping be poured off) 
 and the dripping-pan carefully freed from any ashes that may 
 have fallen in; after this, what flows from the meat, with a 
 wine-glass full of boiling water, rinsed round the dripping-pan 
 and poured through the spit- hole (if a spit be used) will make 
 
22 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 excellent gravy. Lamb is sometimes garnished with crisp 
 parsley strewed over, but some people dislike this; mint sauce 
 is usually served with it: and lor vegetables, sallad, spinach, 
 French beans, cauliflowers, brocoli, asparagus, or green peas. 
 The shank of either shoulder or leg should have a piece ol 
 writing paper, either fringed or plain, twisted round it, to take 
 off the ungainly appearance of the bare stump. 
 
 In the fore quarter, when the shoulder is removed, it is 
 usual for the carver to squeeze in a little lemon juice, a sprinkle 
 of salt, and a little Cayenne pepper—these things therefore 
 should be on the table. 
 
 Pork —Takes more of the fire than any other meat; a 
 joint of any thickness should be allowed full twenty minutes 
 to a pound. The legs and loins are usually roasted, and, if 
 very small and delicate, the spring, or fore-hand, but this lat¬ 
 ter is in general preferred for boiling; the flap also of the loins 
 is better removed for salting. Roast pork is usually seasoned 
 with sage and onion; for a leg or hand cut a hole through the 
 knuckle, widen it with the finger, thrust in the stuffing, and 
 secure it either by sewing up, or with skewers, or by fixing 
 over it a piece of caul or greased paper. 
 
 To have the rind crisp, brown, and free from blistering, as 
 soon as at all heated it should be well and frequently rubbed 
 with a bunch of feathers dipped in salad oil, or a piece of but¬ 
 ter tied in a muslin rag. A leg of pork is often taken up 
 half an hour before done, and scored in diamonds, but unless 
 the rind looks tight and hard, or shrivelled, this is better 
 omitted. A loin or neck of pork had better be scored either 
 before putting down, or, as above, half an hour before its being 
 done; at which time also some salt must be sprinkled. Of 
 pigmeat, the grisken, being lean and dry, will require much 
 basting, the spare-rib very little; on both these joints some 
 cooks scatter sage finely shed in preference to seasoning. Pork 
 requires a little good gravy, which may be obtained by boiling 
 down any bones or trimming bits of the day before, with an 
 on : on and a bit of toasted bread; carefully scumming the li¬ 
 quor, and rinsing it round the dripping-pan. Apple sauce 
 
2.3 
 
 BUTCHERS MEAT—ROASTING. 
 
 and onion sauce are generally served with roast pork ; and 
 lie suitable vegetables are French-beans, all kinds of greens, 
 and potatoes. 
 
 A sucking pig, the moment it is killed, should be put into 
 cold water for a few minutes, then rub it over with a little re¬ 
 sin beaten extremely small, and put, for half a minute, into a 
 pail of scalding water: take it out, and pull out the hair as 
 * quickly as possible; if any part does not come off, put it in 
 again. When quite clean, wash it well with warm water, 
 then rinse it several times in cold water, that no flavour of 
 the resin may remain. Take the feet off at the first joint, 
 make a slit down the belly, and remove the entrails, (the 
 lights, liver, and heart go with the feet.) Again well wash 
 the pig in cold water, and wrap it in a wet cloth, to keep it 
 from the air, until you are ready to put it down; but the 
 sooner this can be done the better. Into the belly put somo 
 crumbs of bread, sage shred very fine, salt, pepper, and nut¬ 
 meg, and sew it up; the legs must be skewered back, or 
 the under part will not be crisp. Lay it to a brisk fire till 
 thoroughly dry; then have ready some butter in a dry doth, 
 and rub the pig with it in every part. Dredge as much flour 
 over as will possibly lie, and do not touch it again till ready 
 to serve; then scrape off the flour very carefully with a blunt 
 knife, rub it well with the buttered cloth, and take off the 
 head while at the fire; take out the brains, and mix them 
 with the gravy that comes from the pig. Then take it up; 
 and without withdrawing the spit, cut it down the back and 
 belly, lay it into the dish, and chop the sage and bread quickly 
 as fine as you can, and mix them with a large quantity of 
 fine melted butter that has very little flour. Put the sauce 
 into the dish after the pig has been split down the back, and 
 garnished with the ears and the two jaws; take off the upper 
 part of the head down to the snout. 
 
 Some add to the above stuffing, a couple of onions par¬ 
 boiled, two ounces of butter, and the yelk of an egg; and 
 some prefer for sauce good clear gravy of beef or veal, with a 
 squeeze of lemon, and thickened with the liver, brains, and a 
 little sage shred fine. A sucking pig is quite as good baked 
 as roasted, if proper attention is paid to it. Apple sauce, 
 
domestic cookery. 
 
 currant sauce, ami bread sauce are occasionally used, but much 
 less so than formerly. Directions will be found in another 
 port for making all these various sauces. A pig will take 
 about two hours to roast—when the eyes start, it is done 
 enough. 
 
 Pig’s head. The head of a small porker is sometimes 
 roasted or baked, and is very good done in the following 
 manner: when the head is split, carefully clean it, take out 
 the brains, scald them sufficiently to beat up, add to them 
 some crumbs of bread, sage shred fine, and pepper and salt; 
 return them to their place in the head, and fix it close toge¬ 
 ther again, either by sewing or binding; put down either to 
 the fire or in the oven; and when hot through rub the rind 
 with butter or salad oil, as directed for pork; when done, open 
 the head, skin the tongue, take out a little of the brains, 
 which mix with some good gravy, and serve in a tureen; 
 (gravy should never be poured over roast pork, as it makes the 
 rind sodden.) Apple sauce in another tureen. Vegetables, 
 greens and potatoes. 
 
 Some people prefer a seasoning of sage and onion, which 
 may be shred small, and mixed with the brains as above, or 
 forced under the rind at the top of the skull. 
 
 Observe, any kind of meat that has been frozen should be 
 soaked two or three hours or more in cold water, and will re¬ 
 quire a longer time to roast. Do not attempt to thaw it before 
 the fire, or you will never be able to roast it properly after¬ 
 wards. 
 
 Of Boiling. 
 
 The cook will remember, in the first place, to have bet 
 boilers and saucepans delicately clean; not only cleaned when 
 Dut away, but carefully dusted and rinsed before using. All 
 meats should be put into the water as soon as the chill is off, 
 and the time allowed to be reckoned from the boiling up. 
 The liffhor boils away much more with the lid off than on. 
 Immediately on boiling up, the pet must be well skimmed, 
 otherwise the scum breaks and settles on the meat. Meat 
 
butcher’s MEAT-BOILING. 
 
 25 
 
 should not be suffered to boil fast, as that hardens it; at the 
 same time be careful that it does not stop boiling, otherwise 
 you deceive yourself and find the meat at the expiration of the 
 time under-done. 
 
 Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, except 
 carrots, parsnips, or turnips, with beef, mutton, or pork; or 
 with the latter, pease for a pudding; the liquor greatly im¬ 
 proves all these vegetables, and greens also if at all harsh; but 
 they make the meat strong and spoil the liquor, which is 
 otherwise useful for soup. Those who like the greens boiled 
 in the liquor, yet object to the taste they give the meat, 
 should take up the meat ten minutes sooner, and keep it 
 warm with a cover and cloth while the greens boil. 
 
 As to time, every solid joint will require a quarter of an 
 hour to a pound, and a few minutes over, from ten to twenty, 
 as the family like it more or less done. A leg of pork or 
 lamb will always require twenty minutes above its quarter of 
 an hour to the pound. 
 
 The liquor in which meat has been boiled is very useful 
 for beginning gravy, broth, or soup. If too salt, use only a 
 part of it for these purposes, and part water. Almost all bones 
 too, that come from table, will form a valuable addition to this 
 liquor; those who have never tried it, would be astonished to 
 see three or four quarts of stiff jelly produced merely from pot 
 liquor and offal bones;—or excellent soup", with only the addi¬ 
 tion of 1 irbs. Whether or not the liquor is thus used, it 
 should be suffered to stand till cold, when a cake of fat will 
 have settled on the top—useful for basting or frying, or mak¬ 
 ing common puddings, (not for frying if salt liquor, as the salt 
 is apt to fly in the pan, and be troublesome and dangerous.) 
 Families where these savings are not necessary, will do well 
 nevertheless to practise them for the benefit of their pool 
 neighbours; and who can tell in these times of fluctuation 
 and uncertainty, how valuable habits of economy may prove to 
 themselves ? 
 
 It is sometimes directed, in order to preserve the colour of 
 meat, to boil it in a cloth; but the end is better answered by, 
 1st, Blanching the meat a few minutes in warm water, before 
 putting it near the fire. 2nd, Shaking on a very small dust 
 
 E 
 
26 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 of flour. 3rd, Very carefully skimming the pot. Even the 
 first of these methods is better avoided, as a sacrifice of the 
 juices of the meat to its colour, which is of far less iru 
 portance. 
 
 Mutton.— -The joints of mutton usually chosen for boil¬ 
 ing are the leg and neck; sometimes the shoulder is boiled, 
 and if thoroughly done eats very well. A leg of mutton boils 
 whitest when quite fresh, but is more tender and delicate when it 
 has hung a few days ; chop off a very small piece of the shank ; 
 if too much is taken off the juices will be drained off by this 
 conduit in the boiling. Allow time enough for the water to 
 come slowly to boil; if it is made to do this hastily, the meat 
 is thereby hardened. Be careful never to run a fork, or any 
 thing sharp into the meat, which would drain its juices. Wben 
 it is to be taken up, have a very large strong fork, of which 
 set one prong into the shank-bone, and slipping a slice under 
 the other end of the joint, so take it up; pour a tea-cup full 
 of the liquor over the meat; garnish with slices of carrot, and 
 serve with caper sauce. The proper vegetables are carrots, 
 cauliflower, and mashed turnips. It has been remarked that 
 sauce is better poured over the meat, the juices of which then 
 mix with it most pleasantly; but, on account of the uncer¬ 
 tainty of all the company liking any particular sauce, it is usu¬ 
 ally served in a boat or tureen, 
 
 A neck of mutton. The scrag requires much longer boil¬ 
 ing than the best end; it should therefore be cut oft’and done 
 separately and slowly in a small quantity of water, for half, or 
 three quarters of an hour, before it is time to put in the other 
 end, when the whole may be put into a larger vessel, and a 
 sufficient quantity of water added; if to be plainly boiled, an 
 hour and a half or three quarters after boiling will be suffi¬ 
 cient. The best end is very fat, and therefore a considerable 
 part of the outside fat is usually taken off before boiling; if 
 this is not done, the skin should be peeled off when taken up. 
 Garnish with carrots or turnips cut in two; and serve with 
 caper sauce, or parsley and butter. Vegetables—mashed 
 turnips, carrots, cauliflower. 
 
 The liauor of either lc" or neck of mutton, is very valuable 
 
butcher’s MEAT-ROASTING. 
 
 27 
 
 for "broth, which may be made either at the same time that the 
 meat is boiled, or after it is removed. If the meat were fat, 
 and fat broth is not desired, the liquor had better be left to 
 become cold, when a cake of fat may be removed, and the 
 barley, or rice, and vegetables added. The common fam ly 
 dish of boiled mutton and broth is best managed in the fol- 
 owing manner: have two, three, or more scrags of mutto 
 (and if an of the best end is used, cut off nearly all the fat,, 
 wash them till perfectly free from blood, and set them on in a 
 vessel sufficiently large to take in what you will afterwards 
 have to add, and with a moderate quantity of water, (soft, by 
 all means, if you can get it,) while this is slowly boiling, take 
 a third, or half a pound of pearl or Scotch barley, wash it 
 well, boil it up once in a little water, strain off the water, and 
 add the barley to the broth; let it go on slowly boiling, with 
 the lid off, and keep it carefully skimmed; when it has thus 
 boiled nearly two hours, lift out the meat and keep it covered 
 up, then throw in some turnips, three or four onions, a hand- 
 full of shred parsley, and, if approved, a few marigold blos¬ 
 soms, and some hard or suet dumplings, (if celery or carrots 
 are approved, they must be put in half an hour earlier, cut in 
 slices :) make the broth, with these additions, boil up fast, then 
 return the meat, and keep all at a moderate boil for twenty 
 minutes or half an hour. The broth, meat, and dumplings 
 are usually served in one large tureen, and eaten together. 
 Two or three sheeps heads boiled in the same manner make 
 a cheap and excellent dish. 
 
 Shoulder of mutton. The whole of this joint may be 
 boiled, or only the knuckle half cut long-ways, and leaving 
 what is called the oyster for roasting; and perhaps the latter 
 is the best way, as the oyster part is very fat for boiling. It 
 will require long and slow boiling; not less than two hours, 
 though the piece may not weigh more than five or six pounds; 
 it may be eaten with broth as above, or served dry, with either 
 
 onion, caper, or parsley sauce. 
 
 Breast of mutton. This joint is so exceedingly fat as to 
 be seldom approved in any form; and the butchers shop, of 
 whatever else it may be destitute, generally displays a goodly 
 row of breasts of mutton, winch are often sold a penny or 
 
SB 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 three-halfpence a pound under other joints;—in fact, are gladly 
 disposed of at any price. There is however great nourish¬ 
 ment in this part of the animal, and it is reckoned particularly 
 good for consumptive persons. To many families into whose 
 hands this book may fall, it may be desirable occasionally to 
 render palatable a less expensive joint; and often to those be¬ 
 nevolent persons who purchase for the use of the poor. The 
 following mode of preparing it is therefore submitted. Set it 
 on, either whole or cut in pieces, in cold water, and let it boil 
 very gently for two hours or two hours and a half; then take 
 out the meat, and if time allows, leave the liquor to become 
 quite cold, when a large quantity of excellent fat may be re¬ 
 moved. If necessary to proceed at once with the cookery, 
 the fat may be carefully skimmed off while hot, and dropped 
 into cold water. Set the liquor on again, and when it boils 
 add six ounces of rice or barley, eight or ten turnips cut in 
 pieces, five or six onions or leeks, two or three carrots cut in 
 slices, and a handful of parsley; when these have boiled fast 
 a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, return the meat into 
 the liquor, with a little pepper and salt, and let all boil slowly 
 from one hour to two. If agreeable, the fat, or part of it, 
 will make some excellent dumplings, which may be thrown in 
 with the rest to boil, and will greatly improve the dish. If 
 fuel is scarce, this dish may be prepared in the same manner at 
 the baker’s oven, in a deep earthern pot with a lid, or tied 
 over; but in that case two bakings must be made of it, that 
 the fat may be removed before the vegetables and thickening 
 are added. 
 
 Sheep’s heads may be either plain boiled, and served with 
 parsley and butter, or caper sauce, or with a little sage shred 
 fine, and beat up with the brains; or may be done with herbs, 
 thickening, and dumplings, in the same manner as a scrag of 
 mutton. 
 
 Beef. —The parts of beef usually boiled are, the aitch¬ 
 bone, the rump, the buttock, the mouse-buttock, or under-bed, 
 the veiny piece, the thick flank, the thin flank, the leg of 
 mutton piece, the brisket, and clod. 
 
 Of these, the veiny piece, the brisket, and clod, are boiled 
 
butcher’s 31 EAT-BOILING. 
 
 fresh, and called bouille. The others are usually salted. As 
 the former preparations come rather under the head of soups, 
 or of made dishes, we proceed to salting beef, for boiling in a 
 plain way. 
 
 Meat should either be salted before the animal heat has 
 entirely left it, or be allowed to hang a few days to become 
 tender. I lie former can rarely be done, as meat is not in 
 general cut up the day of killing; the latter must be re¬ 
 gulated by the weather; in winter three or four days, or even 
 a week may be suffered to pass before the meat is salted; but 
 in summer, when there is danger of fly-blows, or of the meat 
 becoming putrid through the close heat of the weather, it 
 ought not to hang longer than a day or two, and that in a 
 cool and dark place. On being brought into the house, it 
 should be immediately wiped perfectly free from moisture and 
 blood, and all the pipes and kernels be removed. There are 
 several kernels in the neck pieces, where the shoulder clod is 
 removed ; two in each round of beef;—one in the middle, 
 which is called the pope’s eye; and the other in the flap: 
 there is also one in the thick flank, in the middle of the fat • 
 and one between the rump and the aitch-bone. These very 
 soon corrupt, especially in summer, and unless they are re¬ 
 moved, salt will never succeed in preserving the meat. It is 
 the butchers’ business to attend to this matter; but as they 
 frequently neglect it, the cook should take care that it is pro¬ 
 perly done. 
 
 \\ hen the meat has hung fresh as long as is judged proper, 
 let it be laid in a flat dish, and sprinkled with a small quan¬ 
 tity of salt: the next day it may be removed into the pan 01 
 trough in which it is to be finally salted. For this purpose 
 some people use oblong pans, glazed inside and out in a par¬ 
 ticular manner, and fitted with wooden lids; others, especially 
 where much salting is to be carried on, prefer a wooden trough, 
 lined with lead, fixed on legs, and having a hole in one corner 
 for letting off the brine when required; these troughs have 
 lids also lined with lead. 
 
 On placing the meat to be salted in the pan or trough, rub 
 into it half the quantity of salt that will be required for the 
 salting, and the remaining half two or three days afterwards; a 
 
30 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 large piece of beef will require above a pound of salt. If part of 
 it be bay salt, it will improve the flavour of the meat. A little 
 coarse brown sugar, also, is a great improvement; it preserves 
 and mellows the meat, without giving it any particular flavour 
 Saltpetre dries and hardens meat—its only recommendation 
 is that of giving a fine red colour; but people are daily be¬ 
 coming wiser in these matters, and will not sacrifice the ten¬ 
 derness, juiciness, and wholesomeness of an article of food, to 
 the beauty of its colour. Whatever salt is applied, let it be 
 thoroughly rubbed into every part; let the trough or pan be 
 kept closely covered up the whole time of salting; and the 
 meat rubbed, turned, and basted with the brine, at least once 
 every day. The doubled parts must be looked at, and if any 
 mouldiness or clamminess gathers on the meat, in any stage 
 of curing, let it be carefully taken off. Several joints may be 
 salted in the pan in succession; the accumulation of brine 
 being an advantage. Should it become rank with blood and 
 slime, it may be boiled up, skimmed, and, when cold, poured 
 again over the meat; but this had better not be too often re¬ 
 peated, especially now salt is so cheap. If it is desired to have 
 the meat salted red, a small quantity of saltpetre, and a few 
 grains of cochineal, finely powdered, may be added to the 
 pickle. The proportion never should exceed two ounces of 
 saltpetre to a pound of common or bay salt. A thin piece of 
 beef will not require more than eight or ten days to lie in 
 pickle; a thick piece may be allowed a fortnight, but should 
 not exceed it. By too long salting the nutritious juices are 
 drawn out, and the meat becomes hard and indigestible. 
 
 If it be required to get a piece of beef salted for immediate 
 use, it should be managed in the following manner. The 
 moment the meat comes into the house, rub in half the usual 
 quantity of salt, and let it lie till time to put it into the pot; 
 then take a coarse cloth, flour it well, fold up the meat closely 
 in it, and put it into the pot when boiling; when it has boded 
 an hour, take it out, rub in some more salt, flour the cloth 
 again, and return it in the same manner; allow it the usual 
 time of boiling, and, by this method, it will be found as salt 
 as if it had been in the salt-pan a week;—the usual mode 
 however is preferable. 
 
BUTCHER S MEAT-BOILING. 
 
 3 1 
 
 Salt beef, excepting in the above case, should be put m 
 the liquor blood warm, and great care should be taken that, 
 while kept boiling, it is not suffered to boil fast; a quarter of 
 an hour to a pound is quite a sufficient time to boil it. When 
 served to table, a cup full of the liquor may be poured over 
 to draw the gravy, and the dish garnished with sliced carrots. 
 Mustard is always eaten with boiled beef, but no other sauoe. 
 The vegetables suitable (and which are improved by boiling 
 in the liquor) are, carrots, turnips, and greens, especially 
 savoys. It is also common in plain families, to boil a few 
 dumplings in the liquor, or some brewis; either of which draw 
 the fat, and are nourishing and relishing. Brewis is nothing 
 more than a thick top crust of bread, thrown into the pot when 
 the meat is nearly done; it may be taken up whole, or beat 
 up with a little pepper. Those who do not choose any thing 
 so plain for their own eating, may do a good action by boiling 
 a little for some poor family in the neighbourhood 
 
 If meat has necessarily lain too long in salt, it may be 
 freshened by soaking it in one or more waters. In boilin 
 beef be very careful to remove the scum till no more rises 
 and even then it may be necessary to throw in a little col 
 water to refine the liquor. The pot should be kept covered 
 and the meat turned once or twice while boiling. 
 
 Thin flank of beef requires particularly slow boiling; if it 
 is hurried the gristly parts are hard, and the lean stringy. 
 
 The udder of beef requires very long boiling, much longer 
 than the meat to which it adheres; for that reason it is usu¬ 
 ally separated from it, and boiled an hour or two the day be¬ 
 fore, then put on again with the meat. 
 
 If the flavour of carrots, turnips, or greens, boiled with the 
 meat be not approved, the liquor in which they are boiled 
 may be improved by the fat of the pot liquor, after it has been 
 skimmed. If the liquor is intended for soup, it is not in¬ 
 jured by either carrots, turnips, dumplings, or brewis; but 
 greens should never be boiled in liquor that is to be so 
 used. 
 
 Tripe. This is usually bought clean, and partially or 
 wholly boiled, at the tripe and cow-heel shops. It requires a 
 vast deal of cleansing, and must pass through many waters 
 
32 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKEIIY. 
 
 first cold and afterwards hot; the first is best managed at a 
 river’s side; after that it must be rubbed with salt, and re¬ 
 peatedly scalded, till perfectly clean and white. Tne business 
 may be forwarded by dissolving a piece of quicklime in the 
 water in which it is scalded and scraped. After this it must 
 simmer over a slow fire, or by the fire-side from six to nine 
 hours. The best way of keeping it after it is boiled, is to 
 allow it to jelly in its own liquor, and rewarm as wanted. 
 When bought in the shops, choose it thick, fat, and white, 
 and see that it be fresh. 
 
 When it is to be dressed, wash it in warm water, cut it in 
 pieces, and simmer in a little milk and water; boil with it a 
 few fine white onions; when both onions and tripe are quite 
 tender, stir in a good piece of butter rolled in flour, a little 
 pepper, and salt, and a spoonful of ketchup; take it up alto¬ 
 gether in a tureen or deep dish. Some persons prefer it 
 plainly boiled in water, and served up with onion sauce. 
 
 Cow-heels. These also are usually bought cleaned and 
 boiled. The hairs and hoofs are got off by means of scalding 
 water. When perfectly clean they require at least six hours 
 slow boiling, with a little salt;—the liquor must be carefully 
 skimmed. The sauces eaten with them are, parsley and 
 butter; or melted butter, into which is stirred a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard, and a little vinegar. The liquor, in which 
 either of these is boiled, acquires considerable goodness, and 
 answers well to begin stewing beef, or making soup of an} 
 kind. 
 
 Neat’s tongue. Some people cut off the root before salt¬ 
 ing, leaving only a little of the fat; others leave it all an. 
 Sprinkle some salt, and let it drain from the slime and blood. 
 Next day rub in a large spoonful of common salt, the same of 
 coarse sugar, and a little saltpetre, sal prunel, and pounded 
 allspice; rub it well in, and do so every day. In a week, add 
 the like quantity of salt and sugar, and continue to rub it 
 daily for another week; after which the tongue may be taken 
 out of the pickle, either for boiling at once, or for smoking. 
 If smoked very dry, it will require two or three hours soaking 
 in soft water before boiling. As to the time required for 
 boiling, it varies very considerably according to the age of the 
 
butcher’s MEAT—BOlLINCi. 
 
 U3 
 
 auiuvd, &c. from three to five hours. When done it will be 
 quite tender, and the rind will come off easily. 
 
 Veal. —The parts of veal usually boiled, are, the knuckle, 
 both of shoulder and leg, the scrag of neck, and the head. 
 The knuckles require long and slow boiling, the bones longer 
 than the meat; it is a good way to separate the heavy gristly 
 bones, and boil them an hour or more before the meat is 
 added; the meat may be bound up with tape, to keep it toge¬ 
 ther. The bone of the fillet is sometimes taken out before 
 roasting; in that case it may be boiled with the knuckle. The 
 bones will require at least two hours, the meat an hour and a 
 half. 
 
 The scrag of neck is but an insipid thing boiled ; it answers 
 better as a stew. If however it is to be boiled, it will take an 
 hour and a half slow' doing; it is sometimes boiled in milk and 
 water, and covered with onion sauce. 
 
 Boiled veal in general is served up with parsley and butter. 
 Bacon is eaten with it. Proper vegetables, potatoes, greens, 
 and French beans. 
 
 A calf’s head, to be plainly boiled, will require nearly two 
 hours. It should be seen that the butcher has properly 
 cleansed or removed the bones inside the head. It should 
 also be soaked some time, to draw out the blood. The eye¬ 
 balls are to be removed, also the brains, which latter, wash, 
 skin, and scald; scald also some sage and parsley, and chop 
 up fine. When the head is done, take out the tongue, skin, 
 and lay on a separate dish; pour over the head parsley and 
 butter, and over the tongue garnish of brains, prepared in the 
 following manner: having scalded the brains as above, beat 
 them up quite fine into melted butter, with the sage and 
 parsley as above, and a little salt and white pepper; some add 
 a little cayenne, a shalot shred fine, and a squeeze of lemon- 
 juice; both dishes may be garnished with fried bacon, and 
 lemon slices; or a piece of bacon or pig’s cheek should accom¬ 
 pany the dish. Some persons strew crumbs of bread and 
 chopped parsley over a calf’s head, and brown it in a Dutch 
 oven. 
 
 Calf’s feet are usually boiled down for jelly, directions, /or 
 
 F 
 
4 
 
 34 DOMESTIC COOKERY 
 
 which will be given elsewhere; they are however sometimes 
 simply boiled, and eaten with parsley and butter, or made into 
 broth ; in this case, a bit of shin or neck of beef added, greatly 
 enriches and improves the flavour; onions, parsley, turnips, 
 barley, or rice, may be added at pleasure; either way, about 
 four hours will boil the feet. 
 
 The liquor in which veal has been boiled forms an excel¬ 
 lent basis for any kind of white soup, or for green peas soup; 
 or is of itsell a good nourishing broth, very fit for a delicate 
 stomach. The bones of veal, especially the gristly spongy 
 bones, boiled down, will yield a quart or two of good liquor 
 for the above purposes, but not equal to the first made. Di¬ 
 rections for preparing these will be given in the proper place; 
 they are only mentioned here by way of reminding the young 
 cook not to throw away what is so valuable. 
 
 Lamb. —The parts of lamb usually boiled are, the leg and 
 neck. Great care should be taken to preserve the colour. 
 As to time, a leg will take a quarter of an hour over the quarter 
 to each pound. A neck should be slowly boiled, and when 
 the meat begins to shrink from the bones, and the bones to 
 look white, it is done. The neck is usually served with 
 parsley and butter, or sometimes with caper sauce; the leg 
 always with caper sauce. For vegetables, young carrots, spi¬ 
 nach, new potatoes. 
 
 The lamb’s head is usually boiled, and with the pluck 
 forms an excellent dish, prepared in the following manner. 
 In a small quantity of liquor parboil the lights and brains, till 
 they will mince very fine; in the same liquor, (adding a little 
 more if required,) boil the head, which will take something 
 less than an hour to do. Stew the mince in a little of the 
 liquor, with salt and pepper, and thickened with flour and 
 butter; a little lemon peel shred very fine is approved by some 
 persons. Skin the tongue, and pour this mince over the 
 head, and garnish with sippets of toasted bread, and slices of 
 lemon. The liver, heart, and sweet-bread should be fried, 
 and served up in a separate dish, with curled bacon round the 
 edges. For gravy, after the fat is poured out of the pan, put 
 in a little of the liquor in which the head was boiled, a piece 
 
butcher’s MEAT-BOILING 
 
 S3 
 
 of butter rolled in flour, and a spoonful of ketchup ; let it 
 simmer two or three minutes, and then pour over the liquor. 
 Some people merely fry the liver dry, and lay it with alternate 
 slices of bacon round the edge of the dish, in which the head 
 and mince are placed. The usual vegetable is potatoe mash¬ 
 ed ; pickles are sometimes eaten with this dish. 
 
 Pork. —The parts of pork usually boiled are, the leg, the 
 spring, and the head. The salting of these may be carried 
 on in the same manner as directed for beef,* (page 31 .) but 
 a shorter time will suffice lhr lying in salt; from a week to 
 ten days will be sufficient. Pork requires long boiling, about 
 twenty minutes on the joint over the quarter of an hour to 
 a pound. The greasy scum which it throws up must be 
 constantly removed, or it will discolour the meat, and hang 
 about the vegetables; the vegetables are, peas pudding and 
 parsnips. If not too salt, the liquor in which pork has been 
 coiled makes excellent peas soup. 
 
 The hocks and feet of bacon hogs are usually boiled fresh; 
 they will take about three hours to boil; the liquor may be 
 made into peas soup, either at the same time, or after the 
 hocks, &c. are taken out. 
 
 A pig’s head or cheek, after being carefully cleaned, should 
 be sprinkled with common salt, and drained for twenty-four 
 hours; after this, well salted with common salt; some people 
 add a little coarse sugar and saltpetre. It may either be taken 
 out of this pickle in five or six days, well washed, and stewed 
 with peas till quite tender, or may lie eight or ten days, and 
 then be plainly boiled, and eaten with greens, parsnips, or 
 carrots. 
 
 Bacon. —The boiling required by bacon, varies according 
 to the age of the animal, and manner of salting. Supposing 
 these to be favourable, about twenty minutes to the pound 
 will be found sufficient after it boils;—hock or gammon rather 
 longer than ribs; but the rind coming off easily is the surest 
 
 * Directions for caring bacon, pickled pork, Sec. will form a separate 
 aititle* 
 
86 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 rule of its being done enough. Some people like greens 
 boiled with bacon; in that case the pot should be very care¬ 
 fully skimmed before they are put in. The vegetables eaten 
 with bacon are greens, peas, and Windsor, or broad beans. 
 The liquor that has boiled bacon is of no use; but a cake of 
 fat settles on the top, which will serve for some common pur¬ 
 poses. 
 
 A ham is best boiled in a copper, as it requires plenty of 
 room, and slow regular boiling. If it has been long dried, it 
 should be soaked a night in soft water, or a running stream if 
 one is at command; or, to make it eat mellow, it may be put 
 for two or three days in a hole dug in the earth, or laid on 
 damp stones, and covered over with a heavy tub to keep ver¬ 
 min from it; when about to be dressed, wash it well in luke¬ 
 warm water, scrape it clean, and trim from it any little rusty 
 bits; let it soak for an hour or two before coming to the boil, 
 then q cken the boil and skim; after this it will require from 
 two to five hours slow boiling, according to its size. W hen 
 done, which should be at least a quarter of an hour before 
 dinner time, pull off the skin neatly, and preserve it as whole 
 as possible, to keep it moist when cold. Strew bread raspings 
 over, and place it before the fire, in a hot dish set over boil¬ 
 ing water. When ready to serve it, remove into another 
 dish clean and hot, twist writing paper round the shank, and 
 garnish the dish with curled parsley and sliced carrots. The 
 gravy that will have settled in the first dish, as also in the 
 other after carving, is highly valuable for sauces, and should 
 be carefully preserved. The fat also that settles upon the 
 liquor will serve for basting meat, or making a common pud¬ 
 ding. Some people use a little of the liquor for beginning 
 soups or stews, but it is in general unpleasantly salt. If it is 
 used, this should be borne in mind, and no salt added. 
 
 Of Broiling. 
 
 This is a very important part of the cook’s office. Meat 
 thus prepared, if well doi e, is the most wholesome, and gene 
 rally the most acceptable to a delicate or sickly stomach. It is 
 
BUTCHLR’s MEAT —BROILING. 
 
 37 
 
 also frequently called into request, in preparing a hasty mea 
 or one for a single individual; and yet it is an art in wmc 
 comparatively few cooks excel. 
 
 The first thing required is attention to the state of the fire, 
 some persons always use charcoal for broiling, and it is a very 
 good way, but too expensive for general use. The object is, a 
 fire clear, bright, and perfectly free from smoke; and this may be 
 secured by management in a common coal fire. If it is known 
 that broiling will be required, the fire should be made up with 
 knobs, not over large; when these have thoroughly burnt up, 
 a shovel of good cinders, wetted, and perfectly free from ashes, 
 may be added, three quarters of an hour, or an hour before 
 the broiling is wanted. This will draw up and be a beauti¬ 
 fully clear and bright fire in good time. Next for the gridiron; 
 t should be so contrived, that it can be placed at the distance 
 of three, four, five, or six inches from the fire; let it be kept 
 perfectly clean, not only bright on the tops of the bars, but 
 clear from all soot and grease between them. The gridiron 
 should be hot through before the meat is put on; for this pur¬ 
 pose it should be five minutes or more on the fire, then let the 
 bars be wiped with a piece of clean paper, and rubbed with a 
 piece of fresh suet, to prevent the meat sticking or being 
 marked by the bars; then sprinkle a little salt over the fire, 
 and lay on the meat. 
 
 The prime steaks of beef are cct from the middle of the 
 rump, or from the sirloin; the skirt also makes an excellent 
 steak for broiling. Those of mutton from the best end of 
 the loin; a chump steak is never to be preferred, nor one 
 from the neck. Of pork, either the hind or fore loin is cut 
 into chops. Of lamb and veal, chops or cutlets are fried, not 
 broiled. Steaks should be about three quarters of an inch in 
 thickness, and will take ten or twelve minutes to do. If not 
 quite level they may be made so by beating, though the les« 
 of this the better, as it presses out the juices. Steaks, while 
 on the fire, should be frequently turned with a small pair of 
 tongs kept on purpose; a fork should never be stuck in them, 
 as it lets Dut the gravy. A hot dish should be close at hand, 
 that, when turning the steaks, if any drop of gravy rests at 
 top, it may be dropped quickly into this dish and preserved. 
 
38 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKER?. 
 
 In this dish also, if approved, may be put, for beef, a sbalot 
 or two shred fine, and a spoonful of ketchup. Before the last 
 turning, sprinkle a little pepper and salt on each side of the 
 steak; when done, lay it in the dish, and rub on each side a 
 piece of fresh butter, which will draw gravy enough, and of 
 the best kind. Horse radish is used as a garnish for beef 
 steak, also pickled red cabbage or cucumber; oyster sauce may 
 be served in a boat or tureen, and mashed potatoes. 
 
 Mutton chops had better be trimmed of some of the fat, 
 otherwise it blazes into the fire, and is wasted, as well as giv¬ 
 ing to the whole an unpleasant smoky flavour; when the 
 smoke or flame rises, the gridiron should be held up a minute 
 or two, until it subsides. Pepper, salt, butter, and ketchup 
 as for beef; but onions or shalots are seldom used. Some 
 people will have neither ketchup nor butter, only the gravy 
 that runs from the steak; and if an invalid, especially, can re¬ 
 lish them in this way, they are certainly the more whole¬ 
 some for being simple. Pickled walnuts, onions, and nastur¬ 
 tiums are eaten with mutton chops, and potatoes either plain 
 boiled or mashed. Some persons dip mutton chops in egg, 
 then strew over them crumbs of bread, parsley and thyme, 
 pepper and salt, and twist them up in white paper buttered to 
 broil; but in general the plainer way is preferred. 
 
 Pork chops require very thorough doing; some persons like 
 them perfectly dry, and others choose a little good gravy, in 
 which is stirred a spoonful of made mustard, and a little dry 
 sage shred to powder. Pickled red cabbage, or India pickle is 
 the garnish. 
 
 All kinds of kidneys are good broiled; they must be skin¬ 
 ned, split, and all pipe removed. Some people stretch them 
 on a skewer to prevent their curling with the heat, but this is 
 apt to let out the gravy. When nearly done, pepper and salt 
 on each side, save the gravy when it rises, (as above directed,) 
 put ketchup in the dish, and when taken up rub in a piece of 
 fresh butter. 
 
 In all broils, be very careful to have no smoke or soot, tu 
 have every part equally and lightly browned, and to send to 
 table perfectly hot; not kept hot before the fire, or in the 
 oven, but taken from the grid n the moment they are to bo 
 
butcher’s MEAT—FRYING. 
 
 39 
 
 sent to table. If three or four persons are eating mutton or 
 pork chops, three or four should be sent in at a time, Cnd the 
 same number put on the gridiron, and so served hot and hot; 
 the second lot will not take so long doing as the first, and to 
 do them thus in succession is the only way to have them in 
 perfection. Mustard is required with all kinds of steaks, and 
 should therefore be provided in due time; it is never well 
 mixed if done in a hurry, besides the unpleasantness of its hav¬ 
 ing to be waited for. The rule given by a certain epicure to 
 his cook for meat in general, applies particularly to steaks: 
 “ No matter how much or how little they are done, provided 
 that all the blood is out and all the gravy in.” 
 
 Of Frying. 
 
 This is sometimes a very convenient mode of cooking; if 
 well done very agreeable as a change, but if ill done is one of 
 the most offensive ways in which good victuals can be spoiled. 
 It may be smoky from want of attention to the fire; it may 
 be strong from the use of rancid dripping; it may be sodden 
 and stewed in fat, from want of sufficient briskness of fire to 
 do it properly, or it may be scorched and dried outside, and 
 slack in the middle, if the fire is too fierce: all these errors 
 are to be avoided—and first of the fire. It should be clear 
 and brisk, rather stronger than for broiling. The frying pan 
 should be thick in the bottom, that it may be the less liable to 
 burn. The fat should be sweet, fresh, and clear, either good 
 lard or dripping, (free from salt,) or, for some few things, oil 
 or butter. These latter, though very delicious, are very ex¬ 
 travagant; and there is scarcely any purpose for which good 
 lard or dripping, if properly managed will not answer equally 
 well. The fat used for frying will serve several times in sue* 
 cession, if, on pouring off, it be left to settle, and then poured 
 into another vessel quite free from sediment. 
 
 If butter is used for frying, when the steaks are finely 
 browned on one side, turn them, and cover the pan, which 
 Mill render them the more juicy; pepper and salt as for broil¬ 
 ing. When done, place them in a hot dish by the fire, an* 
 
4*0 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 add, to what remains in the pan, a little ketchup, of a small 
 anchovy boned and chopped, or a shalot or ‘wo shred fine. 
 But the more common way is to fry them in a little lard or 
 dripping; which pour off when the steaks are removed; and 
 have ready to put into the pan immediately, a bit of butter 
 rolled in flour, a little ketchup, and a little good gravy, which 
 boil up for a minute or two, and pour over the steaks. This 
 is the usual mode for lamb and mutton chops. Garnish with 
 green pickles, or scraped horse radish. 
 
 Beef steak is sometimes smothered with onions, which are 
 to be thus prepared: pare and slice large Spanish onions, scald 
 the slices for five or six minutes, then put them in a colander 
 to drain. Meanwhile, fry the beef-steak as above, of a fine 
 brown colour; put it in a hot dish, and cover it up. TTen 
 put the onions into the pan, with a good piece of butter, and 
 a little pepper and salt, turn them about till of a fine brown, 
 then turn them over the meat; have ready a bit of butteT rolled 
 in flour, a spoonful of ketchup, one of made mustard, and half 
 a tea-cup full of good gravy; shake them up in the pan, let 
 them boil two or three minutes, raise the steak and onions in 
 the dish, and pour the gravy under them. 
 
 Lamb and mutton chops are sometimes egged, and rolled 
 in a mixture of bread crumbs and parley before frying. 
 
 Pork chops may be fried in the same manner, dipping them 
 after they are egged, in a mixture of chopped sage, onions, and 
 crumbs of bread with pepper and salt. 
 
 Veal cutlets are slices about half an inch thick, taken either 
 from the fillet, neck, or loin. If not equally cut, level them 
 with the cleaver. If butter is not allowed for frying them, be 
 particularly nice in the dripping used. Keep the pan at a 
 good distance from the fire, that they may be thoroughly done; 
 when one side is finely browned, turn the cutlets, and cover 
 the pan to keep in the gravy. Some good gravy for cutlets 
 may be made thus; any trimmings, skins, or bits of bone, the 
 head of a young onion, a sprig or two of parsley, a bit of lemon- 
 peel, six white pepper-corns, a bay leaf, and a bit of bread 
 very thoroughly toasted, a fine high brown, but not burnt; boil 
 these in a pint of water till reduced one-half; when the cutlets 
 are done, strain this gvavy into the pan, with a piece of butter 
 
butcher’s MEAT-FRYING 
 
 41 
 
 the size of a walnut, rolled in flour; when well thickened pour 
 it over the cutlets; a little ketchup may be added if approved. 
 
 Another way. Veal cutlets may be dipped in egg, and 
 seasoned with a mixture of bread crumbs, parsley, lemon-peel 
 chopped very fine, pepper and salt, and a scrape of nutmeg; 
 a sprig also of lemonthyme or vervain if approved. What 
 remains of this mixture may be heated with the gravy after 
 the cutlets are done. Slices of bacon fried round the edge 
 of the dish, with alternate slices of lemon. 
 
 Calf’s, or lamb’s liver should be cut in long thin slices, 
 soaked in water, wiped thoroughly dry, and floured on each 
 side. Fry of a fine nut brown ; when nearly done, sprinkle a 
 little pepper and salt; some add shalot or young onion finely 
 shred: a little good gravy thickened with flour and butter, 
 to which may be added a squeeze of lemon. Serve with 
 stewed or pickled cucumbers and fried parsley. 
 
 When bacon is to be served with liver, let it either be done 
 in a separate pan, or steeped in warm water until the liver is 
 nearly done, then put in the frying pan a minute or two to 
 brown. Each slice of bacon may be laid on a slice of liver, 
 or round the edge of the dish, or served in another dish. 
 
 Eggs and bacon. This is a handy dish when a hasty meal 
 is wanted; a little attention will render it a very nice dish, 
 but for want of that it is often spoiled. If the bacon is hard 
 or salt, or the eggs greasy and discoloured, nothing can be 
 more disagreeable. To prevent this, let the slices of bacon 
 be scalded in the frying-pan for a minute or two on each side, 
 but pour off the water before the fat begins to draw, then let 
 them fry a minute or two till it acquires a fine pale brown; 
 remove it on to a fish drainer, and have ready the eggs, each 
 carefully broken into a separate cup; slip them gently into the 
 pan, so that the yelk falls unbroken on the middle of the 
 white; when the whole of the white is set, and the under 
 part of a fine pale brown, take them up with a slice, and hold 
 therh over the pan a moment or two to drain the fat from 
 them. Some people trim them all round, but if they are 
 nicely done, the curled edges are rather an improvement than 
 otherwise; each egg may be laid on a slice of bacon, or laid 
 
 t; 
 
42 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 separately on the fish-plate, with the bacon round, and gat* 
 nished with parsley. 
 
 Bubble and squeak. This dish is made of cold underdone 
 beef, either boiled or roast, but the former is preferable. Cut 
 the slices, not too thick nor very large, pepper ana (if not 
 previously salted) salt, and fry them. Keep them warm, while 
 you fry some boiled cabbage chopped up and seasoned. This 
 lav over the beef, or else put the cabbage in the middle of 
 the dish, and lay the beef round it. Some people like'a little 
 gravy made in the pan and poured over; such as, a little 
 broth or cold gravy, with a spoonful of ketchup and thickened 
 with butter and flour; others prefer it left dry in the dish, and 
 the following sauce served in a boat; thick melted butter, in 
 which are stirred a few pickled onions, and slices of pickled cu' 
 cumbers, and a little made mustard. 
 
 Of Stewing. 
 
 The perfection of this branch of cookery depends upon the 
 downess with which the process is conducted; the closeness 
 jf the vessel in which it is prepared; and the thorough mix¬ 
 ture of all the ingredients. The lid of the stew-pan or diges¬ 
 ter should be removed as little as possible after the liquor has 
 been thoroughly skimmed, but the vessel may be shaken to 
 prevent the meat from sticking to the bottom or sides. T lie 
 chapter now in hand relates to butcher’s meat plainly dressed, 
 and is designed for the use of plain families. Rich and ex¬ 
 pensive combinations of various articles will not therefore find 
 a place here, but will appear under the heads of made dishes, 
 ragouts, fricasees, &c. The present directions will be con¬ 
 fined to the preparation of simple and economical stews. 
 
 It has already been observed that the liquor in which fresh 
 meat has been boiled should be preserved for the purpose of 
 beginning stews; if used fresh it is at least considerably bet¬ 
 ter than water. If two joints are boiled in succession, as for 
 example, a leg of pork in the liquor that has previously aoi'led 
 leg of mutton the second joint will not be at all discoloured 
 
BUi’CII E ITS ME A T-S TEWINu. 
 
 43 
 
 or injured, and the liquor will be materially improved. Any 
 bones that come from table, if boiled down in a digester, will 
 give out much goodness; the liquor should be strained from 
 the bones, left to settle, and skimmed before it is put to the 
 intended stew. 
 
 Shin or leg of beef; an excellent and economical stew may 
 be made with either of these joints in the following manner: 
 Let the bone be sawed across in two or three places, take out 
 the marrow, (which will make an excellent pudding, and is not 
 necessary or desirable in the stew,) stew down the bones and 
 gristles for several hours, either in liquor, (as above,) or water; 
 after this place some skewers in the stew-pot, and lay the 
 meat upon them. The design of these skewers is, by keep¬ 
 ing the meat from the bottom of the saucepan, at once to 
 pi event its sticking, and to secure the gravy flowing under it, 
 they should therefore be of such a length as to drop and lodge 
 in the pan without quite reaching the bottom. The meat 
 may be cut in pieces about the size of three fingers, or divided 
 in the sinews. The mere hard bone, which enclosed the 
 marrow, will only take up room without giving any more 
 goodness, they had better therefore be removed; but the 
 gristles and joint bones may be returned to the vessel, and as 
 much of the liquor added as will nearly cover the whole. 
 When it has boiled a little, and been skimmed, six or eight 
 onions may he added, and some pepper and salt. Then 
 cover the pot very close, and let all stew very gently for 
 three hours and a half or four hours. Besides the onions 
 some people will add a stick of celery cut small, two or three 
 carrots sliced, three or four turnips cut up, a few Jerusalem 
 aitichokes, and a bundle of sweet herbs; when this is done, 
 the carrots and Jerusalem artichokes had be.ter be parboiled 
 in other liquor, and skimmed before adding to the stew. 
 
 Brisket ol beef may be managed in much the same man¬ 
 ner. It should be cut in pieces, each having a gristle or 
 piece of bone; some people like to rub it with salt and vinegar 
 before dressing it; it certainly does no harm, and is rather 
 than otherwise an improvement; put it in a stew-pan that 
 will just hold it, cover with water or broth; when well skim¬ 
 med let it stew slowly for an hour or more ; then add cu*. 
 
44 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 carrots, turnips, and small onions. When it has stewed 
 slowly till quite tender, draw out the bones, season with pep¬ 
 per, and thicken with butter rolled in flour, a little ketchup, 
 and a little made mustard. 
 
 An ox cheek may be dressed in several ways, we here pre¬ 
 sent two of the most simple. 
 
 1. Bake or stew it down for several hours in a large quan¬ 
 tity of water—four gallons will not be too much. Having 
 done this remove the cheek, and leave the liquor to cool, when 
 a large quantity of excellent fat will be found to have settled 
 on the top; remove this, and do the cheek and liquor again 
 with any herbs and thickening you may choose; let it boil 
 until the meat is become perfectly tender, and the liquor has 
 boiled away about half; this is one of the cheapest and most 
 nourishing dishes that can be prepared for a poor family. 
 
 2. Clean, rub with salt, and afterwards soak in lukewarm 
 water for four hours, a fine fat ox cheek, and the root of a 
 tongue or cow-heel. Wash them, and put into a stew-pot 
 with two gallons of water and a spoonful of salt. Skim it 
 very carefully, and having done so for a considerable time;, 
 throw in a little cold water, which will retard the boil, and 
 throw up more scum. When the meat is thoroughly tender, 
 take it out and remove any loose bones from which the meat 
 has boiled away. When the liquor is cold take oft’ the 
 fat; boil it up again; when it perfectly boils throw in a 
 pint or quart (as it may be approved more or less thickened) 
 of split peas; when it has boiled an hour or more add six or 
 eight potatoes parboiled; six carrots cut in slices, six turnips, 
 six onions, a bunch of parsley, a stick or two of celery, or a 
 desert spoonful of celery seed tied up in a bit of rag; season 
 with pepper and salt, and boil gently till the vegetables are 
 tender. According as the cheek was more or less done, it 
 may be put in with the vegetables, or merely for a few minutes 
 at last to rewarm. 
 
 Some will boil till the vegetables are reduced to a pulp-, 
 and then rub the soup through a sieve, it will be about the 
 consistence of thin peas soup. Then (the cheek should have 
 been sufficiently done to take the meat entirely from the 
 bones) cut it in thin slices, season with pepper, allspice, mace, 
 
BUTCHER S MEAT —STEWING. 
 
 45 
 
 &c. a spoonful of made mustard, a little walnut or mushroom 
 ketchup, and a bit of butter rolled in flour; let all this simmer 
 a few minutes. Serve in a deep dish or tureen, with sippets 
 of toasted bread. 
 
 Ox tails or palates, or both together. The tails should be 
 divided at the joints. Put the tails and palates in as much 
 water or broth as will cover them: simmer the tails an hour, 
 and the palates until the skin will easily pull off; let the liquor 
 cool to remove the fat. The tails may be either fried till of 
 a fine brown, or put in the stew-pan dry, and suffered to brown 
 before any liquor is added; then put in the palates, either 
 whole or cut in slices, and the gravy which thicken and sea¬ 
 son with butter rolled in browned flour,* cayenne, shalot or 
 onions, ketchup or walnut pickle, and a little made mustard, 
 and stew very slowly until perfectly tender. Serve with 
 toasted sippets of bread, and pickled onions, cucumbers, or 
 walnuts. 
 
 Stewed ox heart. Cut it up lengthways into long thin 
 pieces, put them into a stew-pot of cold water or pot-liquor 
 with salt; let it simmer, and carefully skim away the blood, 
 which will be thrown up in large quantities; when nearly ten¬ 
 der, take out the pieces of meat, and carve them neatly into 
 mouthfuls; dredge a little flour over them, season with pepper 
 and allspice, and return to the strained liquor with six or eight 
 onions shred small, a stick or two of celery cut up, a dozen 
 parboiled potatoes, and a little ketchup or walnut pickle; and 
 let all simmer together until the meat and vegetables are per¬ 
 fectly tender, and the gravy rich and well mingled. 
 
 Ox kidney. Cut a kidney or two into thin pieces; soak 
 the slices in water, and dry them well; dust them with flour, 
 pepper, and salt; put them into the stew-pan with a little fresh 
 butter, and shake them about over the fire till brown; then 
 pour some hot water, broth, or pot-liquor into the pan, a sha¬ 
 lot or two shred fine, or a few young onions, a little parsley, 
 and a spoonful of shalot vinegar, onion or walnut pickle, or 
 
 * Flour is browned by spreading a thin surface of it on a plate or tin, 
 and drying in the oven. 
 
46 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 ketchup. Cover the stew-pan close, and let it simmer slowly 
 till done. 
 
 Mutton haricot. Take steaks either from the loin, or 
 best end of neck of mutton: trim away the fat, flap, and 
 chump of the ioin, or long ends of the neck bones. Boil these 
 down with two or three onions, a turnip, a carrot, and a bun¬ 
 dle of parsley, so as to strain off a quart or three pints of good 
 broth, meanwhile season the steaks with pepper, allspice, and 
 flour, and brown them lightly in the frying or stew-pan over 
 a quick fire; then add to them the above broth, a few button 
 onions, a carrot or two, and four or five turnips cut in pieces; 
 let all simmer together till the steaks are tender; then tho¬ 
 roughly skim the gravy, season with pepper and salt, and 
 thicken with a small piece of butter rolled in browned flour; lay 
 the chops in a deep dish, and pour over them the herbs and 
 gravy. Celery or cucumber may be added, also cut pickles, 
 or a little ketchup. Beef steaks may be done in the same 
 manner; for this purpose they answer very well cut from the 
 yhoulder blade. 
 
 Mutton rumps and kidneys. Parboil six rumps in broth, 
 or good pot liquor; when nearly tender remove them; let the 
 gravy cool, and take from it a cake of fat; put the rumps into 
 a frying-pan, strewing over them crumbs of bread, chopped 
 parsley, and lemonthyme, and so brown them; at the same 
 time lightly fry the kidneys, seasoning the whole with pepper 
 and salt. If the rumps do not give out fat enough for fry¬ 
 ing, what is added must be a little bit of butter; when done, 
 put them into the stew-pan, take a little of the liquor in which 
 the rumps were boiled, and boil up in the frying-pan, to rinse 
 from it the good brown gravy that hangs about; then put the 
 whole into the stew-pan with a little rice, already boiled in 
 some of the gravy; let the whole stew gently, until all be 
 tender and well mingled; then put the rice in a dish, and lay 
 on the rumps and kidneys; the rumps with the points meeting 
 m the centre, and a kidney between each; add a spoonful of 
 walnut pickle or ketchup to the gravy, and pour it over. 
 Garnish with pickled cucumbers or French beans. 
 
 A knuckle of veal makes an excellent plain stew, which is 
 
butcher’s MEAT—STEWING. 
 
 47 
 
 perhaps the most economical way of dressing it. Separate 
 the bones from the meat, either taking the marrow out raw; 
 or securing it by a piece of dough or paste where the bone 
 is sawed, tied over with a floured rag. Boil them down in 
 as much water as will cover them; they may be boiled an 
 hour and a half, or two hours, and the marrow then taken out. 
 After this the meat may be added, with a handful of rice or 
 pearl barley, a little pepper and salt, and stew gently until the 
 meat is tender, but not ragged. The bones of veal contain a 
 great deal of goodness, yet they should not be suffered to re¬ 
 main in the stew, as they suck up the gravy, besides having an 
 unsightly appearance. When the gristles have entirely sepa¬ 
 rated from them, they had better be removed, and boiled down 
 again in a small quantity of water, which may be added to the 
 stew if it has boiled away too much, or will be sure to come 
 in use for some other purpose. To this stew, some people 
 add two or three turnips cut in pieces, a few young carrots, a 
 pint of green peas shelled, some young lettuce^leaves and 
 parsley. When herbs are added, care should be taken to 
 allow them no more than the proper time of boiling, otherwise 
 they lose their colour, and acquire a strong and unpleasant 
 flavour. The turnips and carrots should be put in half an 
 hour before taking up, the peas twenty minutes, and the let¬ 
 tuce leaves and parsley ten. 
 
 Knuckle of veal another way. Break or saw the bones, 
 but do not remove the meat from them ; lay skewers across 
 the bottom of the stew-pan, to keep the meat from sticking, 
 cover it with water and no more; put in a head or two of ce¬ 
 lery, onions, carrots, and turnips, two or three of each, a little 
 parsley and lemonthyme, and a dozen or more, each, of black 
 pepper and allspice tied in a muslin rag. Let it simmer till 
 the knuckle is perfectly tender. If not sufficiently seasoned, 
 add pepper and salt, and thicken with rice flour if approved; 
 let this simmer ten minutes or a quarter of an hour more, and 
 then serve. Some people strain the soup from the herbs, 
 scrape from the bones the meat and gristles, and cut it up 
 into small pieces; then stir it again into the gravy, and thicken 
 with rice flour as above, or a bit of butter rolled in flour;— 
 but this plan is not so economical as the former. Anotner 
 
48 
 
 DOP-IESHC COOKERY. 
 
 more expensive way will be prescribed under the head of made 
 dishes. 
 
 Scrag of neck of veal may be done in the same manner. 
 So also may calf’s feet, but both require beef gravy to begin 
 with. 
 
 Breast of veal makes an excellent stew, and may be done in 
 the same manner as the above; or, first partly roasted or cut in 
 pieces and fried of a fine pale brown; then stewed in any 
 broth or liquor in which meat has been boiled; when nearly 
 tender, and the liquor has boiled away considerably, it may be 
 thickened with a bit of butter rolled in flour, and flavoured 
 with a spoonful or two of ketchup. 
 
 A calf’s head makes an exceedingly good stew, prepared in 
 the following manner: set it on to boil with just as much 
 water as will cover it, (if liquor that has previously boiled meat 
 all the better; if not, a bit of shin or neck of beef should be 
 added, or half a pint of the gravy of roast meat be added 
 at last:) let it boil till the meat may be easily removed from 
 the bones, which do, break the bones, and return them to the 
 liquor for half an hour or longer; when all the goodness is 
 drawn out, strain off the bones, and set on again the liquor 
 and meat, w r ith four onions, a bundle of parsley, some pepper 
 and salt, and a little rice flour; or instead of the rice flour use 
 the following thickening: the brains previously scalded, with 
 some leaves of sage and parsley shred very fine, and a piece 
 of butter rolled in flour: simmer till thoroughly well united, 
 and serve with toasted sippets. 
 
 Of Hashes. 
 
 Hashes are frequently impoverished, hardened, and ren¬ 
 dered indigestible by the manner in which they are prepared. 
 It is no uncommon thing to see a hash stewing away for an 
 hour or more, or to hear a cook say she must set the hash on 
 in good time to make the gravy rich; it is no wonder that 
 there are many persons to be met with, with whom hash con¬ 
 stantly disagrees; this would not be the case if the prepare 
 
EUTCHEITS MEAT-HASHES. 4 9 
 
 lion were carried on in a proper manner. Let these two ob¬ 
 servations be borne in mind for hashes in .general: lst 3 That 
 the gravy should bring richness to the meat, not be enrrhed 
 by it. 2nd, That instead of stewing for hours on the hob, 
 the fewer minutes a hash is in the saucepan the better; even 
 :f the meat be underdone, when cut in thin slices, a minute oi 
 two will sufficiently do it. 
 
 Hash of mutton or beef may be made of any part that is 
 underdone; but the leg of mutton, and sirloin of beef afford 
 the best meat for hashing. Let the bones be broken, and 
 set on for gravy with any liquor in which meat has been boil¬ 
 ed, a piece of bread slowly toasted of a fine dark brown, two 
 good sized onions, and a few black pepper corns; any little 
 trimming bits of raw meat or melt will improve the gravy; let 
 it boil some time till quite rich. Then strain it, clear it of 
 fat and scum, and return it to the saucepan with the meat cut 
 in thin slices, the breadth of a finger, and about half the 
 length; let them be well floured and sprinkled with pepper 
 and salt. To a small hash a table spoonful of ketchup or 
 walnut pickle may be added; to a larger quantity more in 
 proportion; also any cold gravy of roast or boiled meat, or 
 jeliy that has settled under dripping. Shake it well in the 
 saucepan to prevent sticking; let it just thoroughly boil to 
 thicken the gravy; then serve with sippets of toasted bread. 
 Pickled walnuts are sometimes eaten with hashed mutton or 
 beef; but in general, potatoes either mashed or plainly boiled 
 are the only vegetables required with hash and stew. 
 
 Ox heart may be hashed exactly in the same manner as 
 mutton or beef, with the addition of some of the stuffing that 
 was dressed with it. 
 
 Calf s head may be hashed with the same ingredients, but 
 will require a longer time to get thoroughly heated; and for 
 that purpose had better stand on the hob for twenty minutes 
 or half an hour after it boils. 
 
 Minced veal. Gravy for this may be procured in the 
 same manner as for beef or mutton, and the mince prepared the 
 same, excepting in the following particulars: 1. No onions or 
 catchup arc to be used in the gravy, but a grate of lemon-peel 
 
 H 
 
50 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 and squeeze of juice may be used instead. 2. 1 he meat 
 instead of being cut in long thin slices must be shred very 
 small. 
 
 e 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 OF POULTRY, PLAINLY DRESSED,. 
 
 Fowls. To choose. If a cock is young his spurs wil 1 
 be short.* Of a young hen the comb and legs will be smooth; „ 
 if rough, the fowl is certainly old;—pullets are best for dress¬ 
 ing just before they begin to lay. A capon is much larger, 
 full in the body, fat about the breast, the comb is very pale. 
 Black-legged fowls, and those of which the skin is yellow, are 
 the most juicy and the best flavoured; but on account of the 
 colour n-ot to be preferred for boiling. If fowls are fresh, the 
 feet will feel firm and smooth, and the vent appear close and 
 dark coloured; if stale, the legs will be flabby, the flesh in 
 general clammy, and about the vent will appear of a greenish 
 cast, the eyes also will be very filmy and sunk. 
 
 Fowls when killed should be immediately hung up by the 
 feet, that all the blood muy be discharged, or at least flow to 
 the head and throat. In winter, a fowl for boiling may hang 
 a day or two; for roasting, twice as long; a capon five or 
 six days. In summer not nearly so long; though it is always 
 desirable that they should hang one night. In weather so 
 intensely hot as not to admit of this, they may be killed very 
 early in the morning of the day in which they are to be dress- 
 
 • Persons are often imposed upon by the deception of higglers, who 
 cut and pare the spurs, to give the animal tbe appearance of being 
 young. 
 

 
 
 TiRTTSSm<&. 
 
 !■ 
 
 
 
 Babbit trussed for Rousting or Bailing. 
 
POULTIIVT. 
 
 hi 
 
 ed. 'Hie. crop may be carefully removed as soon as tire fowls 
 have hung a little; but they had better not be drawn and 
 trussed till about to be used, as it makes them dry. The crop 
 and wind-pipe may be drawn out by opening the skin a little, 
 just in front of the throat, and gently pulling each separately. 
 
 In drawing poultry, a small incision may be made in the 
 vent with a small pen-knife, at which slip in the fore finger; 
 if there is much internal fat round the vent first draw that 
 out. It is very strong if roasted in, and is only in the way 
 of drawing out the other entrails. Next slip the finger up, 
 and get fast hold of the gizzard, (which may be known by its 
 being the hardest substance in the fowl,) and draw it carefully 
 forward, it will generally draw the whole of the intestines after 
 it; but in case the liver remains, slip in the fino-er arrain, and 
 fix it on the heart, which will draw the liver with it; avoid if 
 possible touching the liver, for fear of breaking the gall¬ 
 bladder. The heart is better taken out though it is not 
 commonly done; it often gives the inside of the fowl an unplea¬ 
 sant, bloody appearance, and is scarcely ever eaten; but if 
 taken out it is of some use, with the neck and feet, towards 
 making gravy or broth. When the liver is out, remove the 
 gall-bag most carefully, cutting away a little of the liver with 
 it rather than endangering the breaking of it; if one drop of 
 the gall is spilt, no washing can prevent the unpleasant taste it 
 will occasion. The gizzard is divided into two parts, joined 
 together on each side, and having a bag or hard muscular 
 stomach in the middle, generally filled with gravel and food in 
 a half digested state. One part of the skin by which the 
 gizzard unites at the side is rather narrower than the other, 
 that slit with a small sharp knife, and turning the gizzard 
 inside out, remove the bag, and trim round the gizzard. 
 
 For trussing. The throat should be taken off about two 
 joints from its commencement, leaving on the skin at least 
 half an inch longer. For roasting;—the legs may be taken 
 off an inch (or rather less) below the joint, or, for very young 
 chickens, the feet left on. Make a slit in the skinny part of 
 each pinion; through one thrust the liver, and through the 
 other the gizzard, and turn the top of the pinion over the 
 back. Lay the legs close to the side, and with a wire skewer 
 
52 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKEKY. 
 
 fix the middle joint of the pinion, outside of the knee joint of 
 the leg, and so through the body to the other knee and pi¬ 
 nion ; then with a short skewer fix the lower joint to the 
 lower part of the belly, that the feet, or whatever part of them 
 are left, may turn back over the belly. The skewer for this 
 purpose must go through the sidesmen, fixing the stumps or 
 feet between them.* The only difference in trussing a fowl 
 for boiliim is, that a slit is made on each side of the skin of 
 the belly, and the leg stump tucked in. If a fowl is to be 
 seasoned or stuffed with sausage meat, (which for a roast fowl, 
 especially a capon, is very common;) put the stuffing in where 
 the crop was removed, and tie the skin tightly round the 
 throat; at the other end it may be secured by making a very 
 small slit in the apron, (or skin of the belly,) and tucking the 
 rump through it. Before dressing, singe off the hairs of the 
 fowl with a piece of clean paper lighted. Dredge a little flour 
 over the breast of a fowl, especially if for boiling; but this 
 not until just as it is going to be dressed. The poulterers 
 generally break the breast bone to make the fowl appear 
 plump, and it does so, yet it is a bad way. It dries the meat, 
 renders the bone troublesome, and very often breaks the gall¬ 
 bladder 
 
 If it is desired to have fowls particularly white, this may¬ 
 be promoted by soaking them a few minutes in warm water; 
 but this had better be avoided, as it draws out the juices. 
 
 A fowl for boiling should be put into the liquor a little 
 warm; when it boils up, skim very carefully, and simmer by 
 the side of the fire from twenty-five minutes to three quarters 
 of an hour, according to the size of the fowl. To be 
 served with parsley and butter, celery sauce, liver sauce, or 
 oyster sauce; directions for making all of which will be found 
 under the proper head. Let the liquor be preserved, as it will 
 make some good broth, with the head, neck, feet, and bones 
 
 * These directions may appear needlessly minute, but proper direc 
 tions for trussing- are seldom given, though perhaps to a young cook 
 there is nothing more necessary; by these directions, and observing on 
 the plate the manner in which the fowl should appear when done, any 
 person may easily acquire the art of trussing. 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 53 
 
 as they come from table. Vegetables suitable for eating with 
 boiled fowl are, French beans, asparagus, cauliflower or bro- 
 coli, and young potatoes;—bacon, tongue, or pig’s cheek, is a 
 desirable accompaniment. 
 
 A fowl for roasting, especially a capon, is sometimes stuffed 
 with a pudding in the crop; which maybe made either after the 
 manner of veal stuffing, or merely with crumbs of bread rolled 
 round a piece of butter, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg. Some people scald the liver, shred it fine, and add 
 to the stuffing; but in general the liver roasted is too much 
 in request to admit of its being spared for that purpose. The 
 fire must be brisk and clear; the fowl dredged with flour 
 Jefore putting down; a chicken will take nearly half an hour, 
 a larger fowl longer in proportion up to an hour. It is com¬ 
 monly said that poultry must be basted with butter, but 
 poultry may be roasted exceedingly well, basted with clear 
 fresh dripping; only rubbing a little butter just at last to make 
 the breast froth up; when nearly done sprinkle a little salt. 
 Serve with a little good brown gravy, drawn from beef, and 
 thickened with a little butter rolled in flour; also bread sauce 
 and egg sauce. The same vegetables as for boiled fowl. 
 Fowls are in season all the year round, but become very dear 
 in April or May, until August or September, when they again 
 become plentiful. 
 
 Ducks. To be drawn in the same manner as fowls, but 
 trussed somewhat differently; the pinions cut off at the middle 
 joint, but the feet left on; they must be dipped a moment in 
 boiling water, and the claws and skin removed, and the feet 
 turned over the back. Season inside with sa^e and onion 
 shred small, crumbs of bread, pepper and salt. To fix this 
 in, tie the skin round the throat, and cut a small slit in the 
 apron, through which thrust the rump. The following sea¬ 
 soning is by some preferred; for each duck, two good sized 
 onions, twenty leaves of green sage, the liver parboiled; all 
 this shred very small; add a piece of butter, the yelk of an 
 egg, half the crumb of a penny loaf, or an equal quantity of 
 mashed potatoes. As seasoning is not universally, though 
 generally approved, it may be as well, where a pair of ducks 
 
54 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 are roasted, to season one, and leave the other plain. Before 
 a clear fire three quarters of an hour will roast them. Baste 
 well, and dust lightly with flour to make them look frothy, 
 and see that they are equally done all over of a fine rich 
 brown. Serve with good gravy, which may be made of the 
 pinions, gizzards, and necks, with an onion, a sprig or two of 
 parsley, a few grains of pepper, and a piece of bread highly 
 toasted. Apple or onion sauce is sometimes used, but now 
 very much going out of fashion ; and seldom any thing else ap¬ 
 proved besides good gravy and mustard. Vegetables,—green 
 peas, asparagus, or French beans. Ducks are in prime sea¬ 
 son all the summer months, but may be occasionally had all 
 the year round. 
 
 Geese —are in high perfection from Midsummer to Mi¬ 
 chaelmas, but not confined to that. They are trussed, stuffed, 
 and roasted, exactly as above directed for ducks, but will take 
 much longer to do—from an hour and a half to two hours 
 and a half, according to the size; the breast should be covered 
 at first with greased paper, to be removed when the heat 
 swells it. Good beef gravy and apple sauce; the carver should 
 make a slit in the apron and there put in the gravy. Vege¬ 
 tables the same as for ducks. 
 
 The giblets, consisting of head, neck, feet, gizzard, liver, 
 melt, and heart, make an excellent stew or pie as follows. 
 Some epicures have been known to say they would give a 
 goose for the giblets. 
 
 To stew goose or duck giblets. Get a quart or more of 
 good broth, made of coarse beef, scrags of mutton, or knuckle 
 of veal, or parts of each, flavoured with an onion or two; a 
 faggot of parsley and sweet herbs, and some black and Jamaica 
 pepper corns. In this simmer the giblets, nicely cleaned and 
 scalded; do them till perfectly tender, but not ragged and in¬ 
 sipid ; lift the giblets out, strain, and thicken the gravy with 
 a piece of butter rolled in a large spoonful of fltur; the same 
 of mushroom ketchup, salt, and a little Cayenne; when this 
 boils return the giblets for a moment, with a spoonful of good 
 cream. Serve in a tureen. 
 
 Giblct pie. See pies in general. 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 55 
 
 The liver of a goose is reckoned a great nicety highly sea¬ 
 soned with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and broiled; have ready 
 to receive it a very hot dish with a spoonful of ketchup; rub 
 over it a piece of fresh butter, and serve to table instantly. 
 Both geese and ducks may be chosen by having the bill and 
 feet yellow, and free from hairs, also by the feet being pliable. 
 
 Turkeys. The rules for choosing them are, a smooth 
 black leg and short spur; the leg red and rough indicates an 
 old bird. If fresh the eyes will be full and bright, and the 
 feet supple and moist; but if stale, the eyes will be sunk and 
 the feet dry. 
 
 For boiling a hen turkey is preferred, as being most white 
 and tender. For either boiling or roasting they are to be 
 trussed in the same manner as fowls; and be sure to draw out 
 the sinews of the legs. The maw of a turkey for boiling, 
 should be stuffed either with a pudding of sausage meat, or 
 with the following: crumbs of stale bread, two parts; suet, 
 marrow, or fresh butter; parsley, scalded a minute, and very 
 finely shred, not enough of this to make the stuffing very 
 green; a quarter of a nutmeg grated; a tea spoonful of lemon 
 peel grated; allspice, pepper, and salt; work the whole up to 
 a proper consistence with the yelks of two or three eggs 
 well beat. A little grated ham or tongue may be added if 
 approved, or a few pickled oysters chopped, or an anchovy, or 
 two or three shalots shred fine. A small turkey stuffed will 
 require an hour and a quarter to boil; different sizes in pro¬ 
 portion. To be served with oyster sauce, or liver and lemon 
 sauce; the sauce, or a part of it, is usually poured over the 
 bird. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon. Tongue, or dried 
 chine, is usually eaten with turkey. And as they are in high 
 season in winter, when no great variety of vegetables is afford¬ 
 ed, those usually allotted to it are, cale, or savoy greens, and 
 potatoes. 
 
 Roast turkey. Twist the head under the wing, and tack 
 a strip of paper over the breast bone, to preserve it from 
 scorching while the other parts roast. Score the gizzard, sea¬ 
 son it highly with pepper, salt, and cayenne; rub a little 
 butter over it, then crumbs of bread; and cover both gizzard 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY, 
 
 and liver, with veal or lamb’s caul, or buttered paper; stuff 
 the maw in the same manner as directed for boiled turkey, or 
 with the addition of thyme and marjoram, or with equal parts 
 of the above and sausage meat: do not stuff too full, as the 
 stuffing swells. A clear brisk fire is required, but the bird 
 must not be put too near at first; it will take two hours roast¬ 
 ing, and upwards for a large size. Dredge with flour before 
 putting down, and baste very thoroughly. As the stuffing 
 makes the breast part very thick, be particularly careful for 
 that part to be done through. Serve good gravy in the dish; 
 and in tureens, bread sauce, and egg sauce. Oyster sauce is 
 sometimes used, but not so commonly as for boiled turkey. 
 Vegetables, mashed turnips or potatoes, and greens. 
 
 Pigeons are chiefly in season from March to the end of 
 May; and again from the beginning of August throughout 
 the time of harvest. It is impossible to dress them too fresh; 
 in fact there is a common saying, that “ a pig and a pigeon 
 should never be cold.” Their good flavour greatly depends 
 on being cropped and drawn as soon as killed. 
 
 Roast pigeons. Scald the liver, shred it fine with an equal 
 quantity of crumbs of bread, a little parsley chopped fine, a 
 piece ol butter the size of a nutmeg; season this stuffing with 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Truss with the feet on, but nicely 
 cleaned; dust with flour, and baste either with fresh butter or 
 marrow, and a little butter just at last to froth and flavour 
 them; twenty or twenty-five minutes will roast them. Serve 
 with either parsley and butter, or plain melted butter poured 
 over them. Bread or rice sauce is sometimes eaten with 
 them. Vegetables, French beans, asparagus, and cucumber. 
 
 Pigeons for boiling. The feet should be cut off and 
 trussed in the same manner as fowls for boiling; let them boil 
 slowly for half an hour, and pour over them parsley and but¬ 
 ter, or liver sauce. 
 
 For broiling. After cleaning, split the backs, pepper and 
 salt them, broil them very nicely, and pour over them melted 
 butter, with either stewed or pickled mushrooms, or mushroom 
 ketchup. 
 
 For stewing. They may be stuffed in the same manner 
 
POULTRY. 
 
 57 
 
 as for roasting; or merely have a bit of butter rolled in pepper 
 and salt put within each breast. They are sometimes stewed 
 with cabbage, in the following manner. Cut a hard white 
 cabbage into thin slices as if for pickling, well wash it, then 
 boil it in milk and water, drain it, and lay a part of it at the 
 bottom of a stew pan; on this lay the pigeons which should 
 have been previously well washed and seasoned with pepper 
 and salt, cover with the remainder of the cabbage, add a little 
 broth and stew till the pigeons are quite tender, then add two 
 or three spoonfuls of cream, and a piece of butter and flour 
 lor thickening; after a boil or two, serve the birds in the 
 middle of a deep dish with the cabbage placed round them 
 
 Pigeon pie. See pies in general. 
 
 Cuinea fowls are trussed in the same manner as Pi lea- 
 sants, that is, the head and feet left on and tucked in, and 
 the legs tucked into each other. They are sometimes 
 stuffed, sometimes basted with crumbs of bread and fresh 
 butter, but more frequently a toast is made and buttered, 
 and laid in the dripping pan; on this the fowls are served. 
 r I hey will require half an hour or rather more before a brisk, 
 clear fire; baste frequently, and dust with flour to froth. They 
 will require a little good brown gravy, and bread sauce, or rice 
 sauce. 
 
 Rabbits, for boiling, must be opened all the way 
 down the belly, and the legs jointed at the rump, so as to 
 allow of their turning back along the sides, the shoulders 
 turned back to meet them, so that the lower joints of each lie 
 straight along side by side, the head skewered down to the 
 right shoulder. A young rabbit will take twenty-five minutes 
 to boil,—larger, in proportion. Smother with onion sauce. 
 Also serve liver sauce in a tureen; garnish with lemon slices. 
 
 For roasting. The legs are turned back without disjoint¬ 
 ing, and the animal is placed just in the form that a cat is 
 often seen sitting; the head is fixed back with a skewer 
 driven into the mouth, through the head, and into the back 
 between the shoulders. It may be stuffed with a pudding of 
 
 K 
 
58 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 herbs, crumbs of bread, suet, and egg, with the liver chopped 
 small. Being so dry themselves, rabbits require frequent 
 basting and plenty of good gravy, which should be brown and 
 thickened with butter and flower. 
 
 For frying. Cut up in joints, and strew over them the 
 liver, crumbs of bread, parsley and lemon thyme chopped very 
 fine, mixed with the yelk of an egg, and seasoned with pepper, 
 salt and nutmeg. Fry them over a brisk fire, but not too 
 close to it, lest they should be scorched before being done 
 through. A little gravy may be made with the head, an 
 onion, and a bit of high toasted bread; strain it off, chop the 
 brains and stir in with a bit of butter rolled in flour; a spoon¬ 
 ful of cream is an improvement. Let it boil in the pan a 
 minute or two, and pour over. 
 
 Rabbits also make a very good pie, directions for which 
 will be given in the proper place. 
 
 *» A M # 
 
 Game in general is improved by keeping, and if kept so 
 long as to appear almost unfit to be eaten, may by proper 
 care be completely restored. It is very common to paunch 
 hares immediately they are killed, but if it is required to keep 
 them long or send them to a distance, they will be much 
 better preserved by leaving them unopened, and even sealing 
 the mouth and vent to secure them from the air. If game, 
 or in fact any kind of meat is in danger of tainting, it may be 
 preserved and restored by laying about it lumps of charcoal. 
 It rnay also, previously to roasting, be well washed with 
 vinegar. 
 
 Hare. Paunch and skin it. In skinning be careful 
 to leave the ears entire, which are much esteemed. Preserve 
 the liver and heart to scald for the seasoning. Wash and 
 soak the hare, changing the water several times; dress, dry, 
 and truss it in the same manner as directed for roast rabbit. 
 Make a little slit in the neck and in any other part in which 
 
GAME. 
 
 59 
 
 fhe blood may have gathered. For stuffing take half a 
 pound of bread crumbs, a quarter of a pound of beef suet or 
 marrow shred fine; a little parsley, thyme, and vervain or 
 grated lemon peel, a shalot, or small onion, and a boned an¬ 
 chovy, all chopped fine; season with pepper, salt, nutmeg and 
 cayenne; mix all this with the liver parboiled and shred fine, 
 and the yelks of two eggs; put this in the belly and sow it 
 closely up. When first put down, baste for a quarter of an 
 jour with milk to draw out the blood, then dry the dripping 
 pan; flour the hare all over, and baste with good clear drip¬ 
 ping; let it have a strong and clear fire, at which it will 
 take from an hour and a half to two hours. When nearly 
 done, pour off the dripping and baste with a piece of butter, 
 the yelk of an egg, and a little cream well beat together, 
 feome cooks do not flour till this change of dripping, and 
 perhaps it is the best plan of the two. Have ready some 
 good drawn gravy, flavoured with sweet herbs and an onion, 
 strain it into what remains in the dripping pan, boil it up, 
 well skim and thicken with a little butter and flower, squeeze 
 in a little lemon juice. Serve with currant jelly either cold 
 or made into sauce. Vegetables, cauliflower, potatoes, or 
 mashed turnips. Hare makes an excellent hash. It should 
 merely be cut in joints, seasoned and floured, and slowly 
 warmed in its own gravy, without any additional flavour 
 as of catsup, anchovy, &c. It there is not enough gravy 
 lelt in the dish, a little juore may be made by stewing down 
 the bones that have been cleared of meat. 
 
 A k oung Fawn, or Kjd, maybe dressed in the same 
 manner as hare. Only observe that they will not keep above 
 a day, and that when roasted they should be covered with a 
 veal or lamb caul, or have slices of fat bacon skewered about 
 
 them. 
 
 Pheasants and Partridges. The crop of these birds 
 is taken out from a slit in the neck; the head left on, and 
 tucked under the wing: the legs tucked into one another, 
 and turned back over the breast. They may be filled with ;•* 
 veal stuffing, to which is added the liver of the bird parbod d 
 
60 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY 
 
 and shred fine; or the following is a very good stuffing: a 
 small teacup full of crumbs of bread, an ounce of fresh butter, 
 the liver of the bird as above, seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg, and lemon peel. The fire must be brisk and clear, 
 and the birds well basted and floured. A partridge will take 
 twenty or twenty-five minutes to roast; a pheasant thirty or 
 thirty-five. Some cooks baste with crumbs of bread; others 
 make and butter a toast, and having pared off the outer crust, 
 soak it in the dripping, lay it in the pan the last few minutes 
 for the birds to drip upon, then take it up carefully with a 
 slice, and serve the birds upon it; a little good rich beef gravy 
 is required, and bread sauce. Vegetables, cauliflower, sea 
 cale, potatoes, or mashed turnips. 
 
 Woodcocks, Snipes, Plovers, Rails, and Ortolans, 
 will require keeping some days to be tender, but must not 
 be suffered to be become putrid, as they are not drawn, the 
 trail being considered a delicacy. Tie them on a bird spit, or 
 hang them round a gipsey-jack, which has small hooks for the 
 purpose; let your fire be clear and brisk, as they ought to be 
 quickly roasted. Lay slices of buttered toast in the dripping 
 pan to catch the trail; butter plentifully in roasting. They 
 will take twenty-five minutes, according to their size. Clear 
 brown gravy and melted butter for sauce. Garnish with 
 slices of bitter orange or lemon. 
 
 Wild Ducks, Widgeon, and Teal, are trussed in the 
 same manner as tame ducks, but the flavour is best preserved 
 without stuffing. To take off the fishy taste they sometimes 
 have, put in the dripping pan a large onion, salt, and hot 
 water, and baste them with this the first ten minutes, then 
 empty and dry the dripping pan, put into each bird pepper, 
 salt, and a piece of butter; baste them ten minutes with 
 marrow or good clear dripping, then well flour, sprinkle with 
 salt and baste with butter, till they are of a fine high colour 
 and well frothed up. The quicker they can be done (without 
 burning) the better. They require much less doing than 
 tame fowl. Some people like them served quite dry, and 
 when the breast is cut in slices, they scatter pepper, salt and 
 
BAKING. 
 
 6 \ 
 
 cayenne, and squeeze in the juice of a lemon. Others put 
 rich brown gravy in the dish, and shalot sauce in a boat. 
 
 Larks and Wheateaks. When well cleaned, dip in 
 yelk of egg and roll them in bread crumbs; put butter, 
 pepper and salt in each bird, fix on a lark spit, and that to the 
 larger spit, or hang round a gipsy jack; baste them with but¬ 
 ter and crumbs of bread. From twelve to fifteen minutes will 
 do them. Keep the dripping pan free from ashes, and serve 
 with the birds all that has dripped into it; to this some will 
 add a very little rich brown gravy, thickened with butter, 
 flour, and cream, but in general they are eaten dry. 
 
 Other small birds may be dressed after the same manner 
 as here directed according to the following general rules. 
 
 All birds that live by suction, known by the long bill, as 
 woodcocks, snipes, ortolans, &c. are not to be drawn, but 
 roasted over toast. 
 
 All web-footed wild fowl, to have the feet left on, but 
 carefully skinned and cleaned, and roasted slack and without 
 stuffing. 
 
 o 
 
 All white meat birds, having claws and beaks like fowls, 
 to be stuffed with crumbs of bread, suet and herbs, or liver, 
 and served with bread and egg sauce. 
 
 ✓ww /v /w —^ . *■ r *■ r 
 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 OF BAKING. 
 
 In taking leave of the plainer operations of cookery, in 
 butcher’s meat, poultry and game, it ought to be observed 
 that on some occasions the baker’s oven may be made to do 
 the office of the cook, with greater economy and convenience. 
 Such occasions sometimes arise in plain families, when there 
 
DOMESTIC COOKER V. 
 
 02 
 
 nay be a larger dinner to prepare than one five affords conve¬ 
 nience for. At washing times, when all hands and attentions 
 are otherwise employed, it is a great relief to dismiss the concern 
 ff dinner; and in those families in which the very laudable 
 iractice is adopted, when neither sickness nor the care of in- 
 fants requires any one to stay at home, of permitting all the 
 servants to attend at a place of worship, yet where a hot dinnc 
 cannot be dispensed with, the baker’s oven is then a very sea 
 sonable accommodation. It may be worth while, therefore, 
 to mention such articles as best bear baking, and the manner 
 in which they ought to be prepared. 
 
 A fillet or shoulder of veal, if allowed plenty of time is as 
 good baked as roasted. 
 
 So also is a leg or shoulder of mutton, under which mac 
 be baked a batter pudding, or some large potatoes previously 
 parboiled. 
 
 Sirloin of beef does not bake so well, but the ribs answer 
 very well for baking. So also does a rump, slightly salted 
 for a few days, then washed and well peppered, (some will add 
 onion or shalot shred fine,) well buttered, and covered over .n 
 a deep vessel. 
 
 A leg of pork, also a spare rib and whirly bone, all bake 
 very well; but a loin is too fat and a grisken too lean for 
 baking. 
 
 A heart of any kind is better baked than roasted. 
 
 A sucking pig bakes exceedingly well, if due attention vj 
 paid to it. The charge for this is somewhat higher than for 
 a common joint, but if properly attended to it is well repaid. 
 The ears and tail must be put in white paper buttered, and 
 some butter furnished to anoint the crackling. 
 
 Geese and ducks may be baked, but should first be ex» 
 posed a little to the influence of a fire. 
 
 Hare or rabbit bakes very well, but a good piece of but^ev 
 must be put in the inside and a good piece more rubbed over. 
 
 Almost any kind of stew may be baked, only paying pro 
 Dei attention to the time allowed; the heat of the oven ; 
 taking off the fat that settles; and to adding the herbs and se^ 
 soiling in proper time. For shin or leg of beef, it is a goo } 
 way to let it stand all night in a cool oven 
 
PLAIN PIES. 
 
 
 Bilking in general should be performed in a deep dish nr 
 tin, not less than six inches deep. But for a pig a shallow 
 tin is preferable that the rind may be crisp. 
 
 Before sending to the oven, a little flour and salt should be 
 shaken over the joint, or rather rubbed in, especially upon the 
 bones, to make them brown and relishing. 
 
 A fat joint, as loin or neck of mutton, will not require anv 
 basting, but the bark may be scored to let the fat run out; 
 but a lean joint will require a small quantity of dripping rubbed 
 over it. 
 
 A thick joint will take about two hours in baking; a rather 
 longer time to be allowed if pudding or potatoes are baked 
 under, as the steam somewhat impedes the progress of the 
 cookery. 
 
 A ham, after being well soaked, is often baked, and is by 
 many people preferred, as eating shorter, and admitting of 
 being cut much thinner. A large ham will require four hours 
 doing. Some people before baking a ham, cover it with a 
 paste of flour and water. 
 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 OF PLAIN PIES. 
 
 The quantity of butter usually directed for making pastry 
 would forbid the use of it in those families where either eco¬ 
 nomy or health are considered too valuable to be sacrificed to 
 the indulgence of the palate, and actually has induced some 
 careful young housekeepers totally to abstain from so extrava¬ 
 gant a luxury, until they were convinced that the quantity 
 usually prescribed is by no means necessary; that for family 
 j ‘es, less expensive articles may be substituted with advantage, 
 »»' whole or in part; and that by a light hand and a judicious 
 
4 > 
 
 «r . 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 mocie of mixing the ingredients, a much smaller quantity suc¬ 
 ceeds in producing a light, well-flavoured crust. 
 
 A few general observations on this subject will he here 
 given for the use of the frugal housekeeper, or the plain cook, 
 on whom her employers enjoin moderation and frugality. 
 
 1. Much depends on the quality of the flour; if this be at 
 all musty, clammy, or coarse, no art can produce from it a light 
 crust. The flour used by bakers for making fancy bread, 
 muffins, buns, &c. is 2 Id. or 3d. a gallon higher in price than 
 that used for household bread; but as it goes farther, and 
 requires less eggs and butter, as well as makes a lighter, bet¬ 
 ter paste, it will in the end be found cheaper. Flour should 
 be perfectly dry; for this purpose, especially in damp or cold 
 weather, it may be placed at a moderate distance from the fire 
 for half an hour before using. 
 
 2. The state of the oven should be particularly attended to. 
 Light paste requires a moderate oven; if too quick, the crust 
 cannot rise and will be burned; if too slow, it will be pale and 
 eoddened. Raised paste must have a quick oven; and iced 
 paste a slack oven, that the icing be not scorched before the 
 fruit is sufficiently baked; though in this case it is perhaps 
 better to half bake the tarts before the icing is added. 
 
 3. Among the substitutes for butter may be mentioned, 
 hog’s lard, marrow, suet, dripping, and the fat that settles in 
 liquor in which fresh meat has been boiled or partly stewed. 
 Of these it may be observed, that a lighter and more flakey 
 crust may be made by using equal parts of lard or marrow, 
 and butter, than of butter alone. Lard should be of a pure 
 white and smooth consistence. If it look yellow, dingy, 
 spotted, or crumbly; or if a sediment is seen at the bottom of 
 the bladder or pan, it will be rancid and ill flavoured. Mar¬ 
 row must be very carefully cleaned from splinters of bone, 
 and shred or chopped very fine. Lard and marrow may be 
 used both for meat and fruit pies, and tarts of every kind. 
 Suet may be either chopped exceedingly fine, or only sepa¬ 
 rated from every shred of skin and pipe, and rolled on a pie- 
 board, with a dust of flour, until it is reduced to a soft mass 
 little stiffer than lard, and this method is preferable for making 
 pie crust; or, (especially in hot weather when there may be 
 
PLAIN PIES. 
 
 doubt of its keeping,) it may be chopped fine and then melted 
 on the hob in an earthen vessel, or a tin saucepan, in which is 
 a very little water, or a double saucepan in the outer part of 
 which is water, after the manner of a glue pot. Care must 
 be taken not to let it remain too long near the fire, or it will 
 become rancid. When sufficiently melted, strain it through 
 a thin strainer: what remains will serve for basting meat. 
 Suet should be used chiefly for pies that are to be eaten hot, 
 and for those of meat rather than fruit. 
 
 Dripping should be free from salt, especially if used for 
 fruit pies. It should also be perfectly free from sediment: 
 for these purposes it is a good way, when a large joint of 
 meat is roasted, to take off the first dripping clear before the 
 meat is salted or floured: observe, also, the dripping of sea¬ 
 soned meat will not do for pie-crust, except that of a highly 
 seasoned meat pie. 
 
 The fat that settles on liquor, especially that in which a 
 knuckle of veal, or leg or shin of beef, has been partly stewed, 
 makes a very good crust; if for fruit pie, a little butter should 
 be added; for a plain meat pie it does very well alone. It 
 should be removed before any salt or other seasoning is added, 
 and perfectly free from any drops of the liquor; this may be 
 done by shaking it for a minute or two in a colander or coarse 
 sieve. 
 
 A very light and wholesome crust may be made without 
 any butter, by raising the flour with yeast, and wetting it 
 with milk, or milk and water, as warm as new milk, and the 
 yelk of an egg: or the dougli may be got at the baker’s, and 
 only the egg added. One egg is enough for a moderate 
 sized pie. 
 
 fenow and small beer are, by some economists, recommended 
 to supply the place of butter and eggs. We have also heard 
 of boiling down flints for soup, but never tried either. '1'hose 
 who have, pronounce them all to be of equal efficacy. 
 
 4. As to wetting. The less liquid the better; if more is 
 used than is absolutely necessary to bring the paste to a proper 
 consistence, it will surely be tough; and if it is made too wet, 
 and flour added afterwards, it will never mix well. This is 
 one of the most common errors of young cooks in making 
 
 K 
 
66 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 pastry. Milk is sometimes recommended, but it is apt to 
 give a harshness which is not agreeable, and, especially in hot 
 weather, soon turns sour. In the yeast crust, without butter, 
 it may be preferable, but in all other cases water is the best. 
 
 A raised paste is usually made with warm water, in which 
 a small quantity of the lard and butter to be used has been 
 melted; but in a general way it is believed that nothing an¬ 
 swers better than cold water. 
 
 5. As to the proportions. Half the weight of flour in 
 butter, or butter and lard, will be found sufficiently rich for 
 any purpose. For a very rich sweet paste for preserved 
 sweets, to half a pound of butter and a pound of flour may be 
 added the yelks of two eggs and three ounces of fine loaf 
 sugar, sifted. For a plain crust, half a pound of butter and 
 two eggs, will suffice to two pounds of flour; or, if the eggs 
 are omitted, rather more butter must be allowed. 
 
 6. As to the manner of mixing. Let the bason or pan in 
 which it is to be mixed, together with the pie board and roll¬ 
 ing pin, be kept delicately clean, and dusted before using. If 
 a short crust is desired, the best way of mixing it is, first, with 
 your hand work the whole of the lard, butter, or other fat, till 
 it has become like cream, then mix the flour well with it, wet 
 as little as possible, dust the pie board with flour, and roll out 
 the paste. 
 
 If a flakey crust is desired, then knead but half the but¬ 
 ter or fat into the flour as above directed, and the remainder 
 cut or crumble in small pieces, and stick into the paste 
 when rolled out. In summer time, when the butter is 
 soft, and can be spread all over the paste, it is so much the 
 better; then fold it up again, and roll out: do this once or 
 twice, till all the butter is used. In cold weather, when tha 
 butter cannot be spread, in order thoroughly to mix it, it is a 
 good way to clap the lump of paste in the hand, or to beat 
 it with the rolling pin. 
 
 For a raised crust,* the lard and butter should be boiled in 
 
 * Kaised crust is that which is intended to be turned out of the vessel 
 in which it is baked, and must therefore be made so as to staud nithou ; 
 the support of a dish. 
 
1'LAIN PIES 
 
 67 
 
 a sufficient quantity of water, and the paste made of that. 
 Knead it strongly, and beat it well with a rolling pin; let it 
 stand to cool before rolling out; for this purpose a small 
 quantity of butter and lard will suffice. Raised crust should 
 not be rich, or it will be difficult to prevent the sides from 
 falling. Two, or at most three ounces, will be sufficient for a 
 pint of water, and as much flour as that will thicken. 
 
 For stringing tartlets, work with your hand one ounce of 
 butter and a quarter of an ounce of fine sugar, sifted; then 
 rub to it a quarter of a pound of flour, and a little cold water, 
 no more than is necessary to make a very stiff paste; rub it 
 well between your hand and the board till it begins to string, 
 then cut it in small pieces, and roll it out; cut in strips, which 
 roll with the fingers, and draw into strings as fine as wire; to 
 be laid over tarts in any form you fancy. 
 
 The sooner paste is put into the oven after making, the 
 better; the folds rise more distinctly, and it looks lighter. Bu f 
 if it must be kept any time out of the oven, it should be set 
 in a cool place, and covered over with a pan, so as to keep it 
 quite free from air. 
 
 In summer time, some people prefer making pastry in the 
 cool of the morning, and keeping it covered up. 
 
 The tins or dishes in which paste is baked must be buttered 
 to prevent the crust sticking. This must be the more care¬ 
 fully done, when the pastry is intended to be turned out. 
 
 When it is desired to make paste adhere together, (as in 
 the upper and under crust of a pie,) it is usual to touch the 
 parts to be united with the fingers wet in cold water. The 
 yelk of an egg finely beaten up answers better. 
 
 Raised crust is principally used for patties, and for the 
 linings of custards, or tarts of preserved fruit which require 
 little or no baking. It may he baked either in tins or on 
 them. For the lining of a custard or large tart, the best way 
 is to have tins exactly the shape of a pie dish, and one size 
 smaller than the dish in which you intend to place the article; 
 the tin edge should be crimped or jagged: butter the outside 
 of these, lay the paste over, trim the edges, and bake of a fine 
 pale brown; when done, t arn over into the pie dish, and re¬ 
 move the tin, then pour in boiled custard, or lay the fruit. 
 
G8 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 If it is desired to bake tlie custard, the crust should only be 
 half done on the tin, yet so as perfectly to loosen from it, and 
 turn off on to the pie dish. 
 
 Rice makes a very good paste. Clean and simmer the 
 rice in milk, or milk and water, till it is plump; when done 
 stir in the yelk of an egg or two to make it adhere. With 
 this any kind of savoury pie may be covered. It is better 
 put in the oven directly, without being suffered to cool. 
 
 For sweet tarts an excellent paste may be made in the fol¬ 
 lowing way: boil a quarter of a pound of rice in the smallest 
 quantity of water, strain it as dry as possible, and beat it in a 
 mortar, with half an ounce of butter, and one egg well beaten. 
 
 • Biscuit paste for tarts is made in the following way: one 
 pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of sugar, six yelks of 
 eggs, one wine glass of milk, rubbed all together into a stiff 
 paste. This paste is very short, and only fit for tarts that are 
 baked in tins or patty-pans. 
 
 Potatoe paste may be made in the following manner: 
 pound boiled potatoes very fine, and add, while warm, a suf¬ 
 ficiency of butter to make the mash hold together, or you may 
 mix with it an eg g; then, before it gets cold, flour the board 
 pretty well to prevent it from sticking, and roll it to the thick¬ 
 ness wanted. If it is become quite cold before it be put on 
 the dish, it will be apt to crack. 
 
 These general directions will suffice to give the plain cook 
 an insight into the making paste of different kinds. After 
 all, practice only can make perfect. By attention and habit, 
 a light and expert hand will be acquired, and the adept will be 
 seen, not only in the excellency of her results, but in the neat 
 method of setting about and performing her business. There 
 will be no scattering, no litter, no waste. Her board, dish, 
 and rolling pin, will be nearly as clean when she has made her 
 pastry as when she began it. She will judge so nicely of the 
 quantity of paste required, and the due proportion of each 
 ingredient, as rarely to have occasion to add of either, and as 
 rarely to have any left. Some persons greatly enhance the 
 expense of pastry, by making a considerable quantity more 
 than is required, which may almost always be set down as an 
 absolute waste; and is certainly a habit of which every' care- 
 
PI AIN PIES. 
 
 60 
 
 fui cook will endeavour to break herself. The fresher pastry 
 is used the better. 
 
 Pastry will again come under notice in its more elaborate 
 branches; but as the present part of the work is chiefly in¬ 
 tended for the use of plain families, we shall not detain out 
 readers of that description with remarks and rules which they 
 aie not likely to put in practice, but shall proceed to give a 
 few examples of pies both of the savoury and sweet kinds. 
 
 Pigeon pie. If to be eaten hot, have a rich flaky crust. 
 If intended for cold, a short crust is preferable, but should be 
 equally rich, or nearly so. Butter the dish, anti lay crust 
 round the sides and on the edges; at the bottom of the dish, 
 a fine beef steak, seasoned with pepper and salt; then the 
 birds rubbed with pepper and salt, inside and out, and a piece 
 of butter in each: some will add the liver chopped up with 
 parsley. Observe to lay the breasts downwards, to keep them 
 juicy; a bit of ham is sometimes laid on each pigeon, and a 
 hard-boiled egg between every two; but neither of these are 
 necessary, and by some persons are reckoned no improvement. 
 Put half a pint of gravy or broth, and have ready a little more 
 to pour in boiling hot, at an aperture in the top of the pie, 
 when it comes out of the oven; season the gizzards, and (if 
 you cut them off) two joints of the pinions, and lay in the 
 middle of the dish; lay on the top crust, and make a hole in 
 the centre, wherein may be stuck some of the feet nicely 
 cleaned. It is supposed that this intimation of the contents 
 of the pie, secures the attention of the baker. Wash the 
 crust with the yelk of an egg well beaten. An hour and a 
 a half will bake a pigeon pie, unless it be very large indeed. 
 
 Rabbit tie is greatly improved by a layer of beef steaks 
 or veal at the bottom. The rabbit must he cut in joints; the 
 head and ribs should not be put in the pie, as they only take 
 up room, and yield little or no eating; hut they will serve to 
 make a little good gravy. The liver and brains may be 
 scalded, chopped up, and strewed among the pieces. Season 
 with pepper and salt. Lay the crust in the same manner as 
 for a pigeon pie. 
 
70 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Some people put in no beef, but slices of bacon; when this 
 is done, the upper crust must be lifted up, after baking, the 
 fat carefully skimmed off, and some good gravy added. It 
 will require two hours for baking. 
 
 A more delicate and expensive rabbit pie may be made in 
 the same manner as directed for chicken pie in the next 
 article. 
 
 In a very homely rabbit pie, potatoes scalded and sliced are 
 sometimes laid at the bottom of the dish. In this case, the 
 more gravy should be allowed; and, if possible, the better, as 
 the potatoes suck up, and perhaps rather impoverish it. 
 
 Chicken pie. If for eating cold, should be made in a 
 raised crust. If not, may be done so, or in a deep pie-dish, 
 with only side lining, the same as pigeon pie. Cut up twe 
 young fowls, season with white pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a 
 little mace, all finely powdered; likewise a little cayenne. 
 Put the chicken, slices of ham, or gammon of bacon, force¬ 
 meat balls, or sausage meat, and hard-boiled eggs, in layers, 
 by turns. If it is to be baked in a deep dish, put in a little 
 white gravy, broth, or water; but none if it is to be baked in 
 a crust. The heads, necks, feet, and rib bones will make a 
 little good gravy, with the addition (if you have it,) of a bit of 
 veal-knuckle or mutton-shank, seasoned with an onion, a sprig 
 or two of parsley and thyme, a little mace, and white pepper. 
 If the pie is to be eaten hot, when it comes from the oven, 
 have this gravy ready, nicely skimmed and strained; thicken 
 it with a spoonful or two of cream, and a bit of butter rolled 
 in flour, adding, if you choose, a few mushroom buttons, or 
 truffles, and morels; raise the upper crust, pour in the gravy, 
 as much as the dish will hold, and replace the crust. If for 
 eating cold, the gravy must only be skimmed, strained, and 
 thickened with cream, and left to become cold before it is put 
 in. Some people prefer having the gravy a clear jelly; in 
 this case no cream must be added, but after straining, boil it 
 up with the whites of two eggs, and then run through a fine 
 lawn siove. 
 
 Giblet pie. After very nicely cleaning goose or duck 
 
PLAIN PIES. 
 
 6 a 
 
 giblets, stew tliem with a small quantity of water, onion, black 
 pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs, till nearly clone. Let 
 them grow cold; and if not enough to fill the dish, lay a beef, 
 veal, or two or three mutton steaks, at bottom. Put the 
 liquor of the stew to bake with the above; and when the pie 
 is baked, pour into it a large teacup-ful of cream. 
 
 Sliced potatoes may be added as directed for rabbit pie. 
 
 Beef-steak pie. Have a prime rump steak, (or the beef 
 skirts, if used fresh, answer extremely well,) cut in pieces the 
 breadth of two fingers, season with pepper and salt, add a little 
 gravy, broth, or water, lay side crust, and cover with a good 
 crust.* 
 
 Veal pie, may be made of the middle or scrag of neck, 
 of the breast, or the meat of the knuckle. Prepare in the 
 same manner as for beef-steak pie, only observe that as it 
 will require longer doing, the upper crust must be made pretty 
 thick to prevent its scorching before the meat is done through. 
 If a thick crust is not liked, the meat must be previously 
 scalded for some time in a small quantity of broth or water, 
 which put into the pie for gravy. If the meat is not thus 
 previously scalded, have a rich gravy ready to pour in after 
 baking. In this, as in rabbit pie, many people choose to put 
 a few slices of lean bacon or ham. If a rich pie is wanted, 
 forcemeat and eggs may be added; also truffles, morels, and 
 sweet-breads cut into small bits. 
 
 Veal (or chicken) and parsley pie. Cut some slices 
 from the leg or neck of veal; if the leg, from about the 
 knuckle. Season them with salt; scald some parsley that is 
 picked from the stems, and squeeze it dry; cut it a little, and 
 lay it at the bottom of the dish then put the meat, and so 
 on, in layers. Fill the dish with new milk, but not so high 
 as to touch the crust. Cover it, and when baked, pour out a 
 little of the milk, and put in half a pint of good scalded cream. 
 
 • If you iiave a little cold gravy of roast meat, it is the greatest ini- 
 roremeut possible to a meat pie of anv kind. 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Pork pie tor eating cold. Raise common crust into 
 either a round or oval form, as you choose; have ready 
 the trimming and small bits of pork cut off when a hog is 
 hilled ; and if these are not enough, take the meat off a sweet 
 bone. Beat it well with a rolling pin; season with pepper and 
 salt, and keep the fat and lean separate. Put it in layers, 
 quite close up to the top, lay on the lid, cut the edge smooth 
 round and pinch it, bake in a slow soaking oven, as the meat 
 is very solid. The pork may be put into a common dish, with 
 a very plain crust; and be quite as good. Observe to put no 
 bone or water into pork pie: the outside of the pieces will be 
 hard, unless they are cut small and pressed close. 
 
 Mutton pie. Cut steaks from a loin or neck of mutton 
 that has hung; beat them, and remove some of the fat. Sea¬ 
 son with salt, pepper, and a little onion; put a little water at 
 the bottom of the dish, and a little paste on the edge; then 
 cover with a moderately thick paste. Or raise small pies, and 
 breaking each bone in two to shorten it, season, and cover it 
 over, pinching the edge. When they come out, pour into 
 each a spoonful of gravy made of a bit of mutton. 
 
 Squab pie. Cut apples as for other pies, and lay them in 
 rows with mutton chops; shred onion, and sprinkle it among 
 them, and also some sugar. 
 
 Lamb pie. Make it of the loin, neck, or breast; the 
 breast of house lamb is one of the most delicate things that can 
 be eaten. It should be very lightly seasoned with pepper and 
 salt; the bone taken out, but not the gristles; and a small 
 quantity of jelly gravy be put in hot; but the pie should not 
 be cut till cold. Put two spoonfuls of water before baking. 
 
 Grass-Iamb makes an excellent pie, and may either be boned 
 or not, but not to bone it is perhaps the best. Season with 
 only pepper and salt; but two spoonfuls of water before baking, 
 and as much gravy when it comes from the oven.* 
 
 • Meat pies heing fat, it is best to let out. the gmy on one sine and 
 fm it in again by a funnel, at the centre, and a little may be aqdod. 
 
PLAIN PIES. 
 
 73 
 
 Vegetable pie. Scald and blanch some oroad beans; 
 cut young carrots, turnips, artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, 
 peas, onions, lettuce, parsley, celery, or any of them you have, 
 make the whole into a nice stew, with some good veal gravy. 
 Bake a crust over a dish, with a little lining round the edge, 
 and a cup turned up to keep it from sinking. When baked, 
 open the lid and pour in the stew. 
 
 Herb pie. Pick two handfuls of parsley from the stems, 
 half the quantity of spinach, two lettuces, some mustard and 
 cresses, a few leaves of borage, and white beet-leaves; wash, 
 and boil them a little; then drain, and press out of the water: 
 cut them small; mix, and lay them in a dish, sprinkle with 
 some salt. Mix a batter of flour, two eggs well beaten, a pint 
 of cream, and half a pint of milk, and pour it on the herbs, 
 cover with a good crust, and bake. 
 
 Parsley pie. Lay a fowl, or a few bones of the scrag of 
 veal, seasoned, into a dish ; scald a colander-full of picked 
 parsley in milk; season it, and add to it the fowl or meat, with 
 a teacup-ful of any sort of good broth, or w r eak gravy. When 
 it is baked pour into it a quarter of a pint of cream scalded, 
 with the size of a walnut of butter, and a bit of flour. Shake 
 it round, to mix with the gravy already in. 
 
 Lettuces, white mustard leaves, or spinach, may be added 
 to the parsley, and scalded before put in. 
 
 Turnip pie. Season mutton-chops with salt and pepper, 
 reserving the ends of the neck-bones to lay over the turnips, 
 which must be cut into small dice, and put on the steaks. 
 
 Put-4wo or three good spoonfuls of milk m. You may 
 add sliced onion. Cover with a crust, and bake. 
 
 Potatoe pie. Skin some potatoes, and cut them into 
 slices: season them; and also some mutton, beef, pork, or 
 veal. Put layers of them and of the meat. 
 
 Book pie. Skin the birds, and cut out the back-bones, 
 
 or they will impart a bitter taste; lay a beef-steak at the 
 
 l. 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 bottom of the dish; pepper and salt the whole; add a little 
 g ood gravy, and a piece of butter to each bird, or pour rneltej 
 butter over the whole. Cover with a common crust. 
 
 FRUIT PIES. 
 
 For these, a light and rich crust is required. Such fruits 
 as have been preserved with their full quantity of sugar, re¬ 
 quire neither baking nor sweetening, but are usually added 
 after the crust is baked, as baking injures their fine colour. 
 
 Apple pie. Lay a strip of puff paste round the edge of 
 the dish. Put in a layer of fruit and a layer of sugar, pro¬ 
 ceeding in this manner until the dish is filled, keeping the 
 fruit highest in the middle ; then cover it with the same light 
 paste, and bake an hour and a half. Some people like the 
 flavour of three or four cloves, a little shred lemon-peel, a 
 squeeze of lemon-juice, or a glass of cider, and the top strewed 
 with fine sugar. If to be eaten hot, the top is sometimes cut 
 open and a piece of fresh butter stirred in, though this is much 
 gone out of fashion. Some people put a spoonful or two of 
 oeer in an apple pie, and others stew down the cores and peel¬ 
 ings in a little water, for syrup; but if the apples be good, 
 they will generally yield juice enough with the sugar alone. 
 It is a bad way to cut apples in thin slices. If the apple be 
 merely quartered, and then each quarter cut across, the core 
 may be removed without waste, and the fruit will retain its 
 flavour much better than when cut too small. 
 
 Gooseberry pie may be made in the same manner; but 
 observe, the nearer the fruit approaches to ripeness, until it is 
 actually ripe, the more sugar it requires. 
 
 Apricots, gathered when the trees require thinning, should 
 not be suffered to grow larger than a full sized gooseberry, or 
 the skin becomes bitter, and the stone hard ; they will require 
 scalding until quite tender, in a very small quantity ot water 
 
■FRUIT TIES. 
 
 75 
 
 and sugar sufficient to sweeten them, They will then require 
 very little baking. 
 
 Rhubarb pie. Cut the stalks in the length of four or 
 five inches, and take off the thin skin; simmer slowly for an 
 hour, in a small quantity of sugar and water; and when cold, 
 cover with a crust and bake. 
 
 Cherry pie is improved by a mixture of currants or rasp¬ 
 berries, or both. 
 
 Currant pie also, by a mixture of raspberries. 
 
 These ripe red fruits require but little baking; when the 
 crust has acquired a fine pale brown, they are sure to be 
 done. 
 
 Observe, sugar baked with J^he fruit, mingles better and 
 gives a finer flavour, but is more apt to turn acid on the sto¬ 
 mach than if added afterwards; on this account, it is bettei 
 to sweeten pies and puddings for children after they are baked 
 or boiled. 
 
 Mince pies. Of scraped beef, free from skin and strings, 
 weigh 2 lb., 4 lb. of suet picked and chopped, then add 6 lb. 
 of currants nicely cleaned and perfectly dry, 3 lb. of chopped 
 apples, the peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of sweet wine, 
 a nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, ditto mace, ditto 
 pimento, in finest powder; press the whole into a deep pan 
 when well mixed, and keep it covered in a dry cool place. 
 
 Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very large fa¬ 
 mily. 
 
 Have citron, orange, and lemon-peel ready, and put some 
 of each in the pies when made. 
 
 Mince pies without meat. Of the best apples six 
 pounds, pared, cored, and minced; of fresh suet, and raisins 
 stoned, each three pounds, likewise minced ; to these add of 
 mace and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce each, and eight 
 cloves in finest powder, three pounds of the finest powder 
 sugar, three quarters of an ounce of salt, the rinds of four and 
 
76 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 juice of two lemons, half a pint of port, the same of brandy. 
 Mix well, and put into a deep pan. 
 
 Have ready washed and dried four pounds of currants, and 
 add as you make the pies, with candied fruit. 
 
 Critten pies. These are favourites with young people 
 in farm houses. When a bacon hog is killed, the inward fat 
 is beaten with an iron or wooden spatula kept for the purpose, 
 and then melted down for lard, and strained off: what remains 
 of the straining, bears the name of crittens; to a pound of 
 which, add one pound of currants nicely cleaned, or half a 
 pound of currants and half a pound of plumbs, the latter stoned 
 and chopped, one pound of apples chopped fine, one pound 
 crumbs of bread, the yelks of two or three eggs, candied lemon 
 and orange peel an ounce of each, a little ginger, nutmeg, and 
 allspice ; to this mass some people choose to add a pound of 
 the lean meat of the pig, shred or pounded very fine as for 
 sausages; others will add the lights, scalded and chopped fine. 
 As it is but a homely dish, a plain crust will suffice, made of 
 lard or dripping, with the addition of a little butter ; but how¬ 
 ever plain the ingredients, a good cook will make it light and 
 well flavoured. The crust should be raised, and is usually 
 baked in a red platter; or, if preferred, may be made in small 
 tins or saucers. 
 
 Of Boiled Paste. 
 
 This may be made exactly in the same manner as paste 
 for baking, with either suet, lard, or dripping; but suet, which 
 is least approved for baking, is in general preferred for boiling. 
 Let it be shred very fine or rolled to a cream; only observe, 
 that an egg is a very useful addition, as it binds the crust, and 
 preserves it from breaking, as well as adds to its lightness and 
 richness; it is particularly useful when the fruit is juicy, as 
 currants, cherries, &c. ; or for a meat pudding in preserving 
 the gravy. All puddings of this kind are best boiled in a 
 bason, with a pudding cloth securely tied over. 
 
 Observe, a pudding boiled in a bason, must be allowed a 
 
PUDDINGS IN GENERAL. 
 
 7T 
 
 quarter of an hour or twenty minutes longer than if boiled only 
 La a cloth. 
 
 Observe also, some people dip the pudding cloth in boiling 
 water, and then flour it; others flour it dry, but the best way 
 is to grease that part of the cloth that is to touch the pud¬ 
 ding, either with dripping, lard, or butter. 
 
 All puddings of this description should be left in the cloth 
 and bason, two or three minutes after being taken out of the 
 pot; they will then turn out whole. This object may be far¬ 
 ther secured by dipping the whole concern in a bucket of cold 
 water, but this method is not recommended; if the paste be 
 well made, and the bason and cloth be properly greased, the 
 pudding will be sure to turn out without sticking; and the cold 
 water in some degree both chills and hardens the crust. It is 
 of the greatest importance that the pot thoroughly boil when 
 the pudding is put in, and be kept boiling the whole time, 
 otherwise the crust will be broken and watery. 
 
 Meat pudding. Grease the basin and cloth, as above 
 directed; lay a crust inside of the basin ; then the meat cut 
 in square pieces of two or three inches each, and the thickness 
 of a finger; season with pepper and salt; add a teacup-ful of 
 rich jelly gravy, that of roast meat is the best; if you have 
 not this, a morsel of butter must be allowed and two spoon¬ 
 fuls of water; or a little cold melted butter, if such a thing 
 happens to be in the house. When full, lay crust over the 
 top, which be sure to secure well by pinching together with 
 the under crust; then tie over the greased pudding-cloth very 
 securely. 
 
 Of Puddings in general. 
 
 Batter puddings. Of these, the constituent paits are 
 milk, eggs, and flour: they may be variously enriched or 
 flavoured, and hence derive different names: but the following 
 general rules will apply to the whole race. 
 
78 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKEMY. 
 
 The eggs should be finely beaten; if yelks and whites are 
 beaten separately, and afterwards mixed, it is all the better. 
 
 The eggs should be thoroughly mixed with the flour before 
 any milk is added; then as much milk as will bring the batter 
 to a proper stiffness, and the whole beaten till not a single 
 lump remains. When a batter pudding is required to be par¬ 
 ticularly delicate, it may be strained through a sieve or coarse 
 cloth, but if it be properly mixed and well beaten, this is not 
 necessary. The basin in which a batter pudding is to be 
 boiled, must be well buttered, and the batter must be just 
 enough perfectly to fill it, otherwise it will be sure to be watery 
 and broken. 
 
 If boiled in a cloth only, let the cloth be buttered or 
 floured, and a little room allowed for the pudding to swell. 
 Be very particular in seeing that the water boils fast at the 
 moment the pudding is put in, and that it be kept boiling the 
 whole time. 
 
 The time required for boiling will be in proportion to the 
 richness as well as the size of the pudding. A larger pudding 
 with more eggs, will not take so long to boil as a smaller one 
 with more flour and less eggs. If suet be added, a rather 
 shorter time will suffice for boiling. 
 
 Batter pudding should be stirred to the very last moment 
 before putting into the pot, otherwise the flour will settle, and 
 the pudding appear of different substances. For the same 
 reason, as well as to preserve it from sticking, the pudding 
 should be shaken about in the pot for two or three minutes, 
 which will secure the proper setting of the batter. 
 
 A pot in which a pudding is to be boiled, had better be 
 placed on a trivet; if it be close to the flame, the pudding is 
 apt to stick and burn; still it must not be so far off as to en¬ 
 danger its stopping boiling. A common pudding may be 
 boiled in a pot with meat or even vegetables, if required; but 
 for a light rich pudding, this should be carefully avoided, as a 
 greasy appearance or unpleasant flavour is easily thus acquired. 
 
 As to proportions of the ingredients, to fill a half-pint basin 
 with rich and light batter, five eggs may be allowed to three 
 table spoonsful of flour, a grate of nutmeg, and as much 
 milk as will exactly fill the basin. A pudding of this size an 
 
PUDDINGS IN GENERAL. 
 
 79 
 
 quality will require forty-five or fifty minutes boiling, and 
 should on no account exceed an hour, or it becomes hard; let 
 it be served as hot as possible, and eaten with wine sauce, or 
 cold butter and su^ar. 
 
 o 
 
 A very good batter pudding of the same size may be made 
 with three eggs and three spoonfuls of flour, which may be 
 either boiled or baked. If baked, the dish should not be 
 quite full, as the batter, if well made, rises very hollow, and is 
 liable to burn. In a baked batter pudding, a spoonful of suet 
 shred fine, or an equal quantity of lard or dripping improves 
 and renders it more wholesome. 
 
 The same pudding answers very well to bake under meat, 
 in that case no other fat is required than the drippings of the 
 meat; it may be made of any size, in the proportion of an egg 
 to a spoonful of flour, and a quantity of milk equal to the 
 eggs. 
 
 A Yorkshire pudding is much the same thing; only done 
 under roast meat, not baked , and in a shallow square tin; 
 when the under part is browned, it is turned over in the tin. 
 To do this the more easily, there is a very good contrivance, 
 that of a double tin, which shuts in like a box; let the pud¬ 
 ding be half done in one part; when properly browned under¬ 
 neath, have ready the other part, greased and hot through ; 
 place it on as the lid of a box, and turn it over quickly, then 
 remove the tin in which it has already been baked, and let 
 the other part brown; two hours are allowed for baking. 
 
 A very excellent family pudding may be made in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner : Prepare a batter as above; 'grease a deep dish ; 
 pour a little of the batter; then lay steaks of any kind, well 
 seasoned ; pour over the remainder of the batter, and bake it; 
 for which purpose an hour and three-quarters or two hours 
 will suffice. 
 
 Baked gooseberry or apple pudding. Make a Imh 
 
 O 
 
 natter; that is, in the proportion of three eggs and an equal 
 measure of milk, to two spoonfuls of flour. Butter a deep 
 dish, sufficiently large, and pour in half the batter; then and 
 .hree half pints or a quart of fine ripe gooseberries, nicely 
 picked, or four good-sized apples cut up, scatter over a little 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 SO 
 
 moist sugar, powdered ginger, and nutmeg; then pour the re¬ 
 mainder of the batter, and bake in a tolerably quick oven. 
 
 N. B. Be careful not to put too much sugar, as it is apt to 
 make the batter heavy; this remark applies to all puddings in 
 which batter and fruit are combined. 
 
 A PLAIN PLUM OR CURRANT PUDDING. Four egg S, SIX 
 spoonfuls of flour, three of suet or marrow shred fine, one of 
 moist sugar, half a pint of milk, a pinch of ground allspice and 
 ginger, and a grate of nutmeg, half a pound of good raisins, 
 stoned and chopped, or of currants nicely cleaned and picked, 
 an ounce of candied lemon or orange-peel, minced fine; 
 mixed according to the general directions for batter, and well 
 beaten. This is a good family pudding, either boiled or 
 baked; it will take two hours to do. If boiled, flour the cloth 
 dry, and in tying up leave room for the pudding to swell. It 
 eats well cold, cut out in slices, or may be rewarmed either by 
 frying, toasting, or broiling. 
 
 Some people prefer a mixture of bread in a pudding of tins 
 description, if baked; in that case, use only four spoonfuls of 
 flour instead of six, and about four ounces of crumbs of bread, 
 which may either be simply stirred in with the other ingredi¬ 
 ents, or scalded in part of the milk and suffered to become 
 cold. We think the former plan preferable, and indeed that 
 the pudding is better without any addition of bread. 
 
 Plum pudding another way. The same proportions 
 of flour and suet, and half the quantity of fruit, with spice, 
 lemon, a glass of wine or not, and one egg and milk, will 
 make an excellent pudding, if long boiled. 
 
 Hunter’s pudding. Mix a pound of suet, ditto flour, 
 ditto currants, ditto raisins stoned and a little cut, the rind of 
 half a lemon shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica peppers in 
 fine powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little salt, and as 
 little milk as will make it of a proper consistence; boil it in a 
 floured cloth, or a melon-mould, eight or nine hours. Serve 
 with sweet sauce. Add sometimes a spoonful of peach-water 
 for change of flavour. 
 
PUDDINGS IN Gtf?? ER AL. 
 
 81 
 
 This pudding will keep, after it is boiled, six months, if 
 kept tied up in the same cloth, and hung up, folded in a 
 sheet of cap-paper to preserve it from dust, being first cold. 
 When to be used, it must boil a full hour. 
 
 A quick-made pudding. Flour and suet half a pound 
 eacii, four eggs, a quarter of a pint of new milk, a little mace 
 and nutmeg, a quarter of a pound of raisins, ditto of currants ; 
 mix well, and boil three quarters of an hour with the cover of 
 the pot on, or it will require longer. 
 
 Shelford pudding. Mix three quarters cf a pound of 
 currants or raisins, one pound of suet, one pound of flour six 
 eggs, a little good milk, some lemon-peel, and a little sal* 
 Boil it in a melon-shape six hours. 
 
 Bread and butter pudding. Butter a deep dish, 
 slice bread and butter enough to lay three thicknesses in the 
 dish; over each layer scatter dried currants, and a little sugar, 
 nutmeg, or other spices; and shred lemon or orange peel. 
 Pour over the whole a very light batter, allowing three eggs 
 and an equal measure of milk, to Gne large spoonful of flour ; 
 let this be poured over at ieast two hours before baking, that 
 the bread may be thoroughly soaked—an hour will bake it— 
 a crust round the edge is an improvement to the appearance 
 of all puddings, but not necessary; if paste is made and there 
 is a bit to spare it is as well added, but it is scarcely worth 
 making on purpose. This is a plain pudding of the kind; if 
 it be desired to have it very rich, use French rolls instead of 
 bread, and spread the slices thickly with butter, sweeten with 
 fine loaf sugar, use no inferior spice, but more nutmeg or cin¬ 
 namon, allow more currants and candv, preferring citron to 
 lemon and orange; and instead of batter pour over an un¬ 
 boiled custard in the proportion of five eggs to a pint of 
 new milk flavoured with a little ratafia. Thirty-five or forty 
 minutes will sufficiently bake this. Marrow pudding is mad6 
 exactly in the same manner, only substituting marrow instead 
 of butter, a»d putting a larger quantity of it. 
 
 M 
 
82 
 
 DOMESTIC cookery. 
 
 Custard pudding. Beat up separately the yelks am! 
 whites of six eggs, to the former add and mix well two 
 spoonfuls of flour, then by d« grees add a pint and a half of 
 rich new milk. The operation thus far may be done an 
 hour or two before wanted, and is improved thereby; but not 
 until the moment you are ready to boil or bake the pudding, 
 acid the beaten whites of the eggs, sweeten with loaf sugar to 
 taste, add powder cinnamon, and nutmeg, or lemon grated,, 
 and a spoonful of ratafia, or brandy, or orange-flower water ; 
 butter a bason which the mixture will exactly fill, and a cloth 
 to tie over it, which be sure to do very securely. Boil it 
 half an hour, keeping it shaken about in the saucepan at 
 least five minutes to prevent the egg going to one side. 
 When turned out, grate sugar over the top, or stick bits of 
 red currant jelly or raspberry jam, or pour over white wine 
 sauce. If baked, this pudding will require twenty minutes; 
 let the dish be well buttered, and the nutmeg or cinnamon 
 grated at top: an edge c v ust, is a great improvement. 
 
 Common pancakes. Make a light batter of eggs, flour, 
 and milk. Fry in a small pan, in hot dripping or lard. 
 Salt, or nutmeg and ginger, may be added. 
 
 Another and preferable way. Three ounces of lard 
 or dripping worked with the hand to a cream; three eggs 
 finely beaten; mix these, and add to them three spoon¬ 
 fuls of flour (not heavily filled') a pinclv of salt, and a grate of 
 nutmeg and ginger; mix all well together, then add a quarter 
 of a pint of milk: let the dripping or lard in which they are 
 to be fried, perfectly boil. A regular pancake is the size and 
 shape of the frying pan; but they are more easily turned, as , 
 well as look better when done, and are more pleasant for 
 helping, if only two spoonfuls of batter be allowed to each 
 cake: a moderate sized pan will take four of these, and a 
 moment will sufficiently set each to prevent their running into 
 one another, fry them on both sides cf a fine pale brown 
 
 Suet shred fine answ ers just as well as lard or dripping. - - 
 
 Observation . If fat is thus added in the making, the pan¬ 
 cakes will be much lighter, and they will not be more ex- 
 
PUDDINGS IN GENERAL. 
 
 HA 
 
 pensive or taste more fat than the other way, as they will not 
 require so much in frying; pancakes made without fat, suck 
 .ip a prodigious quantity, and it is generally necessary to add 
 fat two or three times in the course of frying a batch of pan¬ 
 cakes, which is much better avoided. Pancakes should be 
 served on a fish plate with holes, and are eaten with sugar 
 and lemon, or orange, or white wine, or vinegar. 
 
 Fritters. Make batter as above, adding to it, apples 
 sliced thin and cored, or ripe gooseberries, currants, apricots, 
 or green-gages stoned, or lemon sliced as thin as paper, or 
 dried currants, plumbs, or prunes, or preserved gooseberries: 
 drop a small quantity into the pan, two spoonfuls or less, and 
 fry as above, serving on a fish plate; nothing is required for 
 eating with them excepting sugar. 
 
 Suet puddings. The legitimate old fashioned suet 
 pudding or dumpling, admits no ingredient except suet, flour, 
 water, and salt. It may be made of equal parts of suet 
 (shred very fine) and flour, or to a pound of flour three quar¬ 
 ters of a pound of suet; and most people prefer it thus. Add 
 a pinch of salt, and mix well with as much cold water as will 
 make it of a stiffness between batter and paste; it may be 
 boiled in a buttered basin with a cloth tied tightly over, or in 
 a floured cloth with room allowed for swelling; in the former 
 case three hours may be allowed, in the latter two will suffice. 
 If for dumplings, it may be made nearly as stiff as paste, di¬ 
 vided into pieces the size of a ball, shaken into form between 
 the hands well floured, and dropped quickly into a boiling 
 saucepan, either with or without meat. Half an hour will 
 boil them: let them be served very hot. Currant or plum 
 dumplings may be made exactly in the same manner, only 
 adding to half a pound of flour and six ounces of suet, six 
 ounces of currants or plumbs, and a pinch of all-spice. When 
 dumplings are dropped into the pot they immediately sink 
 when all are in, the skimmer should be carefully passed round 
 the bottom of the pot so as to prevent their sticking, yet at 
 the same time avoiding to break them; they will then float at 
 the top. See that the pot be kept boiling the whole time. 
 
84 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Suet pudding another way. Shred a pound of suet; 
 mix with a pound and a quarter of flour, two eggs beaten 
 separately, a little salt, and as little milk as will make it. 
 Boil four hours. It eats well next day, cut in slices and 
 broiled. 
 
 The outward fat of loins or necks of mutton finely shred, 
 makes a more delicate pudding than suet. 
 
 Another and preferable way. Shred half a pound of 
 suet, mix it with three quarters of a pound of flour. In 
 the vessel in which you are about to mix it, beat three eggs; 
 then add the flour and suet, and afterwards as much water as 
 will make it rather stiffer than batter; tie it loosely yet 
 securely in a floured cloth, and boil an hour and a half. This 
 is a very light wholesome pudding for children, and eats well 
 with a little of the dripping or gravy of roast meat. In 
 general the observation will be found to hold good, that eggs 
 are an improvement to suet puddings, but that milk is not. 
 
 Bread puddings are compounded of bread, milk, and 
 eggs, variously proportioned and flavoured. There are two 
 ways of mixing, of which we consider the latter, though not 
 so common, to be the preferable. 1st. To pour the boiling 
 milk over bread, cover up, and leave until it becomes quite 
 cold before the eggs are added. 2nd. To crumble a suffi¬ 
 cient quantity of bread into boiling milk, and immediately, 
 but gradually, stir it in a boiling state to the eggs. Con¬ 
 trary to the common notion, this plan most effectually pre¬ 
 vents the curdling of the eggs. The milk may be flavoured 
 by boiling in it a stick of cinnamon or a few bay, laurel, or 
 peach leaves*. When mixed, sweetened, and flavoured to 
 taste, let the mass be put into a buttered bason which it will 
 
 * Some people object to the use of these as being of a poisonous natur . 
 It is true that the very powerful and poisonous medicine, the Prussic acid, 
 may be extracted from them; and from bitter almonds also in a mueo 
 higher degree, and peach or nectarine kernels, of which macaroni and 
 ratafia cakes are made, and the liquor called ratafia or noyeau. Yet who 
 ever heard of any person being poisoned by these ? The fact is, that the 
 quantity used for flavouring, is far too small to admit any possibility of 
 being injurious; and indeed, that to be either medicinally beneficial oi 
 injurious, the properties must be drawn out by a chemical process. 
 
PUDDINGS IN GENERAL. 
 
 85 
 
 exactly fill, and tied tightly down with a very nice cloth but¬ 
 tered. A pudding made in a small tea-cup with one egg, will 
 take twenty minutes to boil; in a large tea-cup with two eggs, 
 it must not exceed half an hour; and with five or six eggs, 
 three-quarters of an hour: if baked, the same time may be 
 allowed. The best proportion is for the smallest size tea¬ 
 cup a table-spoonful of bread crumbs, one egg, and as much 
 new milk as is required to fill it; sweeten with loaf sugar, and 
 grate a little nutmeg. 
 
 Bread puddings may be served with wine sauce, or merely 
 cold butter and sugar. 
 
 A very good pudding may be made with much smaller 
 proportions of the expensive articles. It has been by some 
 called saveall. or scrap pudding; and is made weekly or 
 oftener in some families by way of clearing up scraps of bread. 
 We venture, however, to suggest that by good management 
 scraps may be prevented. 
 
 1. Let no more bread be cut at a meal than is likely to be 
 used, and cut not in over-large pieces; the loaf had better be 
 applied to again and again, and those who eat heartily of 
 bread be served repeatedly, than the wasteful and disgusting 
 practice of accumulating scraps be adopted. 
 
 2. Let children from infancy be accustomed to have a 
 small piece given them at a time, and be required to clear 
 what is given* not being suffered to make objections to 
 crust or crumb. 
 
 3. Let the bread pan be daily cleared out, and if there are 
 any pieces let them be eaten first. Those who object to do this 
 are very likely to know the want of what they now despise— 
 A digression, it must be allowed; but it is hoped not an use¬ 
 less one. To return to bread pudding. 
 
 Take pieces of bread, crust and crumb, slice them thin 
 into boiling milk in the proportion of a pound of bread to a 
 
 * This rule will apply equally to other provisions as well as bread. 
 Children are very apt to ask for more than they really want, and so ac¬ 
 quire the daily and wasteful habit of leaving bits on their plate. On 
 the other hand, if children are never allowed to leave, they will grow up 
 with a rooted dislike to a habit, which however fashionable, can never be 
 otherwise than wasteful, slovenly, and disgusting. 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 pint of milk,* let it stand on the hob a little while to soften; 
 then beat it fine, and add three eggs, three ounces of moist 
 sugar, and two of suet chopped fine, a little ginger and allspice, 
 or nutmeg; and if you please a quarter of a pound of cur¬ 
 rants. Butter the dish, and bake three quarters of an hour. 
 
 Rice puddings may be made in every variety from the 
 plainest to the richest. Much depends on the quality of the 
 rice—it is better to give a penny a pound more and have it 
 the best; that should be chosen of which the grains are plump 
 and long, of a clear white, and free from bits of hull; if rice 
 looks yellow, it is either sour or mouldy, and will both waste 
 the other ingredients added to it, and disorder those who eat 
 it. Rice properly prepared and used in moderation is very 
 good food, but not so nourishing as some people imagine . 
 except as an occasional change, it is a poor food for infants. 
 It has also a tendency to confine the bowels, and is on that 
 account sometimes valuable, sometimes improper. It has 
 formerly been the custom to do rice far too much, by which it 
 was deprived of its nutritious properties and rendered un¬ 
 wholesome. In Carolina and India, where rice grows, and 
 can be used fresh, we are informed that they never boil it 
 more than ten minutes, and that it is most delicious and 
 wholesome. In the state we get it, of course a long-er time 
 is required to soften it: but in general the remark may be 
 borne in mind, that when once thoroughly swollen and softened, 
 all time beyond is injurious. These remarks, founded on ex¬ 
 perience, are not undeserving the attention of parents. 
 
 Plain boiled rice pudding, is nothing more than rice 
 tied in a cloth with plenty of room to swell; when it has done 
 so and is tender, it may be eaten with butter and sugar and 
 nutmeg, or milk, or preserved fruit. 
 
 Some people let it boil till it has swollen, then beat it in 
 
 * We have been asked whether it is necessary to use new milk for 
 puddings? we reply that for common family puddings, good sweet skim 
 milk answers every purpose : new milk of course is richer; rice is more 
 than any thing apt to turn milk, therefore particular care should be taken 
 to have it very fresh for a rice pudding. 
 
PUDDINGS IN GENERAL. 
 
 87 
 
 a basin with an egg or two, a little moist sugar and nutmeg* 
 and an ounce or two of suet shred fine; then butter the cloth 
 (or basin) tie it up tightly, and let it boil half an hour longer. 
 
 Plain baked rice pudding. Wash a large teacup-ful 
 of rice, put it in a deep dish with two quarts of good skim 
 milk, and bake it an hour and a half. You may add if you 
 please an ounce or two of suet shred fine, and a little brown 
 sugar, and allspice, or nutmeg; or you may lay slices of bread 
 and butter at top, and sprinkle a little sugar and nutmeg. 
 Some people like it this way, and others to sweeten as they 
 eat it. There is one great recommendation of the latter 
 plan, that rice being of itself very apt to turn the milk, is 
 rendered much more so by the addition of sugar baked 
 with it. 
 
 A richer baked rice pudding may be made in the following 
 manner : wash and pick a teacup-ful of rice and scald it in a 
 small quantity of water. When swollen and tender, drain off 
 any water that may remain, and add a quart of new milk, with 
 a bit of cinnamon, or a few bay or peach leaves, for flavour. 
 When it boils have ready beaten four eggs, to which gra¬ 
 dually mix the rice and milk; sweeten to your taste; put into 
 a buttered dish; grate nutmeg over and bake half an hour. 
 Some people like the addition of a few dried currants; but it 
 is apt to turn the whole wheyey. 
 
 Ground rice pudding. To a quart of milk, allow two 
 large heaped spoonfuls of ground rice, and four eggs well 
 beaten; mix it in the following manner: set on nearly all the 
 milk, except so much as is necessary to rub the rice to a soft 
 paste, add to the milk, cinnamon, or leaves for flavour. When 
 it boils, stir it in the rice, and let it boil a few minutes, stirring 
 it the whole time. When it thickens, gradually stir it to 
 the eggs finely beaten; sweeten to your taste; put into a 
 buttered dish ; grate nutmeg over, and bake half, or three 
 quarters of an hour; this is a convenient pudding, as it may 
 be made of any size, and bakes well in the oven of a \ ork- 
 shire grate. If currants are to be added, strew them over 
 the top, the moment before putting into the oven. When a 
 
88 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 pliin economical pudding is desired, three eggs to a quart of 
 milk will do; and it may be sweetened with moist sugar: 
 allspice also may be substituted for nutmeg. If on the other 
 band a richer pudding be desired, it may be made so, by 
 using new milk or part cream, and adding another egg or two 
 and an ounce of fresh butter or marrow. 
 
 Dutch rice pudding. Soak four ounces of rice in 
 warm water half an hour, drain off the water, then simmer 
 with half a pint of new milk and a piece of cinnamon, or four 
 laurel leaves. When tender, add four eggs well beaten, two 
 ounces of butter melted in a teacup-ful of cream, three ounces 
 of loaf sugar, a quarter of a nutmeg, and some grated lemon- 
 peel ; put a light puft' paste in a mould or dish, or grate tops- 
 and-bottoms. Pour over the pudding, and bake in a quick 
 oven; or you may put only a border of paste : in this case the 
 oven must not be quite so quick. When the crust is baked 
 enough the pudding will be sure to be so too. 
 
 Sago, tapioca, vermiceli.e, or Russian seed pud¬ 
 ding. Boil a pint and a half of new milk, with four spoon¬ 
 fuls of sago nicely washed and picked, lemon-peel, cinnamon, 
 and nutmeg; sweeten to taste; then mix four eggs, put a 
 paste round the dish, and bake slowly. 
 
 Skimmer cake. Mix flour and water and a pinch of 
 salt to the consistency of dough; make a cake half an inch 
 thick, and boil it on the skimmer. It will take about twenty 
 minutes to boil; but the best rules of judging are, when a 
 fork stuck in will draw out without any particles of the cake 
 adhering to it, or when it will slip off the skimmer without 
 sticking. Let it be eaten as hot as possible; if it stands il 
 will become heavy. It is usually eaten with sugar and 
 butter. 
 
 Hard dumplings are made exactly in the same manner, 
 only being round and thick will take longer to boil: dumplings 
 of a quarter of a pound of flour in each will take three quarters 
 of an hour. They are usually eaten with cold butter an4 salt. 
 
PUDDINGS IN GENERAL. 
 
 89 
 
 POTATOE PUDDING TO GO BELOW A ROAST. Feel, boil, 
 aud mash the potatoes, with a little milk, salt, pepper, and a 
 finely shred onion if approved. Dish and score this, and set 
 it below the roast to catch the dripping, and to brown. 
 
 This pudding may be browned in an oven with no meat 
 above it; but in that case a piece of butter or good dripping 
 should he stirred in, and if you have it, a little roast meat 
 gravy. In either case the dish in which it is baked should be 
 greased. 
 
 Potatoe PUDDING with meat. Mash the potatoes. 
 Make them thin with milk, and season them as above. Cut 
 either fat beef, mutton, or pork into very small bits, and sea¬ 
 son these well with salt, pepper, allspice, and shred onion 
 Place a layer of the meat at the bottom of a baking dish, then 
 potatoes, and proceed thus till the dish is filled. Pour all 
 the potatoe batter that remains equally over the top, and stick 
 some butter over that. Bake of a fine brown, covering with 
 
 O 
 
 paper to prevent scorching. 
 
 Rich potatoe puling, baked or boiled. Take one 
 pound of mealy potatoes boiled, rub them through a sieve; 
 add four ounces of fresh butter, melted in half a pint of 
 cream, six ounces of sugar, six whole eggs, one ounce of 
 currants, one lemon-peel, and half a nutmeg grated, with a 
 spoonful of brandy; mix all these together, and bake in a 
 dish lined with puff paste. This may be boiled or steamed 
 m a mould. 
 
 Another. Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces 
 of butter, the yelks and whites of two eggs, a quarter of a pint 
 of cream, one spoonful of white wine, a morsel of salt, the juice 
 and rind of a lemon; beat all to froth ,’ sugar to taste. A 
 crust or not, as you like. Bake it. If wanted richer, put 
 three ounces more butter, sweetmeats and almonds, and ano¬ 
 ther es-cr. 
 
 Hasty pudding. Boil a quart of milk with two or three 
 laurel leaves; throw in two ounces of flour out of a dredging 
 box, whilst boiling; stir all. the time till thick enough ; put it 
 
 N 
 
GO 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 into a dish, with a piece of butter in the. middle, and moist 
 sugar, and half a nutmeg grated over it. 
 
 Pease pudding. Boil a quart of split pease in a cloth, till 
 tender, mash and rub them through a sieve; add three whole 
 eggs, three ounces of butter, salt and pepper to taste; tie it 
 up in a cloth, and let it boil again half an hour, then turn it 
 out; or it will do very well without the eggs. Be sure that 
 the liquor fast boils when you first put in the pudding; this is 
 the great secret of having peas floury, whether in puddings or 
 soup; and by no means soak the peas previous to boiling, 
 which is a long established but very erroneous practice. Any 
 person who will impartially try both ways will soon be con¬ 
 vinced of the truth of these observations. 
 
 Yeast, or Suffolk dumplings. Make a very light 
 dough with yeast, as for bread, but with milk instead of water, 
 yid put salt. Let it rise an hour before the fire. 
 
 Twenty minutes before you are to serve, have ready a 
 large stew-pan of boiling water; make the dough into balls, 
 the size of a middling apple; throw them in, and boil 
 twenty minutes. If you doubt when done enough, stick a 
 clean fork into one, and if it come out clear, it is done. 
 
 The way to eat them is to tear them apart on the top with 
 two forks, for they become heavy by their own steam. Eat 
 immediately with meat, or sugar and butter, or salt. 
 
 Another way. Set one pound of flour with three spoon¬ 
 fuls of yeast, and half a cupful of warm milk ; let it rise in a 
 warm place for one hour; work it well up and make it the 
 size of a small orange ; let them remain ten minutes aftei 
 making up, and boil in plenty of water twenty minutes; serve 
 with wine sauce. If convenient to steam twenty minutes they 
 are much better. 
 
 To those who are not expert at making dough, a great 
 deal of trouble is saved by purchasing it at the baker’s; three¬ 
 penny worth will make a good dish of dumplings. Ine 
 dough must be kept within the influence of the fire, but at a 
 moderate distance from it, and covered with a thick cloth until 
 if is time to make it up. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 General Remarks . 
 
 Vegetables should be gathered in the cool of the morn¬ 
 ing or evening. If gathered when the sun is upon them, they 
 are sure to be tough and discoloured. 
 
 Let them be carefully cleaned from insects and di' 
 this can be done without washing them, so much the better. 
 The colour is much more preserved by avoiding to wet them, 
 until they go into the saucepan for boiling. 
 
 The fresher they are used the better. If they have been 
 gathered long and become flabby, they must then be soaked 
 some time in cold water. In that case let them be put in 
 the colander and well shaken, to free them from every drop of 
 water, the moment before putting into the saucepan. 
 
 River, or very fresh rain water is preferable to pump water 
 for boiling such vegetables as should be green. Hard water, 
 especially if it be at all chalybeate, is to be avoided, both as 
 injuring the colour, and in some instances, by combining its 
 qualities with those of the vegetables, becoming really in¬ 
 jurious.* 
 
 Let all green vegetables be thrown into the water perfectly 
 boiling; put in with them a table spoonful of common salt, or 
 
 * An instance of this kind came within the knowledge of the writer, a 
 person having at supper eaten freely of artichokes, was in the night taken 
 extremely ill as if under the influence of poison. The cause remained 
 for some days a mystery, until observing an odd flavour in the pump water, 
 a glass of it was shown to the medical man who attended the family, 
 ar.d analyzed by him; it was found to he strongly impregnated with iron 
 End allum, and he had no doubt that these having in boiling combined 
 with the qualities of the artichokes, produced the injurious effects. The 
 family had recently removed into the house, and were not aware of the 
 peculiar quality of the water 
 
92 
 
 .DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 a tea-spoonful of salt of wormwood; put the lid on instantly, 
 and make them boil up very fast. When they do so, but 
 not before, remove the lid, and put it on no more. Keep 
 them very fast boiling the whole time, and when done, they 
 will sink. If the boiling have at aii slackened, this rule will 
 not apply. Vegetables cannot be well boiled if crowded in 
 the saucepan; they require plenty of room and plenty of water. 
 Nothing answers so well for boiling vegetables in, as large 
 saucepans of common tin. 
 
 The water should boil just at the moment it is wanted, and 
 not before. If it be suffered to boil several minutes before 
 the vegetables are put in, they will be discoloured; or if the 
 water has boiled and stood on the hob, and has to be boiled 
 up again. 
 
 The moment vegetables are done enough, they should be 
 drained off, otherwise they lose their beauty and crispness. 
 
 Cauliflower, brocoli, and turnip-greens, are best taken up 
 with a ladle, made of fine wire, through which the water runs 
 off without bruising them. If the whole be poured through a 
 colander, the cauliflower or brocoli is liable to be broken; and 
 turnip-greens to be swampy. 
 
 As to the length of time and manner of serving particular 
 vegetables, the following directions will suffice, but practice 
 must make perfect. Except where particular sauces are spe¬ 
 cified, melted butter is served for all vegetables. 
 
 Young coleworts and Scotch kale will take a quarter 
 of an hour or twenty minutes. 
 
 Savoys and cabbage, if large, full half an hour. 
 
 Green peas should not be overdone, nor boiled in much 
 water. If very young and fresh, scarcely a quarter of an 
 hour; from that to twenty minutes, and even longer still, if 
 very old; but the best rule is, as above, when they sink. A 
 Sew tops of mint should be boiled with them, and chopped up 
 for garnish, and a piece of butter stirred in the dish. 
 
 N. B. It is not generally approved to boil either peas or 
 beans with bacon, But some people still prefer it; if so, the 
 
vegetables. 
 
 98 
 
 pot must be very carefully skimmed previously to their being 
 put in, and they will require rather less boiling. 
 
 Stewed peas. To a quart of peas add a quart of gravy, 
 two or three lumps of sugar, some pepper and salt. Stew 
 them gently till the peas are quite tender; and if the gravy is 
 not sufficiently thick, add a piece of butter rolled in flour. 
 
 If the peas are old, half boil them first in hard water before 
 they are stewed. Whether for young or old peas, the gravy 
 must be strong. 
 
 Another way. Put a quart of peas, a lettuce and an onion 
 both sliced, a bit of butter, pepper, salt, and no more water 
 than hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew them two 
 hours very gently. When to be served, beat up an egg, and 
 stir it into them : or a bit of flour and butter. 
 
 Some think a tea-spoonful of white powdered sugar is an 
 improvement. Gravy may be added, but then there will be 
 less of the flavour of the peas. Chop a bit of mint, and stew 
 in them. 
 
 Long pods, Windsor, or broad beans, should be 
 chosen young, before they are even full grown. If suffered to 
 grow till their eyes become blackish, they eat harsh and strong. 
 The time of boiling differs according to the size and age, from 
 twenty minutes to half an hour; boil till they are tender; a 
 bunch of parsley should be boiled and served to eat with them, 
 but not boiled nearly so long as the beans, or it will be dis¬ 
 coloured. Some people stir cold butter in the dish, but in ge¬ 
 neral parsley and butter is served in a boat to eat with the beans. 
 
 French beans. Choose them young and quick grown. 
 Scarlet runners are the best. Top and tail and string them; 
 slit down the middle and cut across. If young, they will boil 
 in ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. 
 
 Turnip greens. Use only the very hearts, trimming 
 off the outside leaves, and skinning the stalks, which, if properly 
 done, are very nice. They will not take more than four or 
 five minutes boilinu. 
 
04 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Asparagus. Scrape the stalks clean; tie them up with 
 hass or tape in bundles of about a quarter of a hundred each; 
 cut off the ends of the stalks to an equal length, leaving only 
 enough of the white to serve as handles. Throw them in the 
 
 o 
 
 water fast boiling, (as above directed,) with a handful of salt; 
 they will require from fifteen to twenty minutes boiling; ob¬ 
 serve to take them up the moment they are tender, otherwise 
 the colour will be injured, and the flavour lost; meanwhile, 
 toast a slice of bread; dip it lightly in the liquor the asparagus 
 v/as boiled in, and lay it on a fish plate; pour a little melted 
 butter on the toast, then lay the asparagus in a circle, the 
 heads inwards; instead of dipping in the liquor and pouring 
 melted butter, some prefer spreading the toast with butter, and 
 immediately laying the hot asparagus upon it. We are in¬ 
 clined to recommend the latter mode. Serve melted butter 
 in a boat. 
 
 Cauliflowers. Choose those that are close and white, 
 and of the middle size; trim off the outside leaves; cut olf 
 the stalk flat at the bottom, and let them lie an hour in salt 
 and water, to draw out the caterpillars, with which they 
 abound. 
 
 A small cauliflower will take fifteen, a larger one twenty 
 minutes boiling. It may be proved by sticking a fork in the 
 stalk. When that is tender, the flower is done, and should 
 be taken up instantly; a minute or two over boiling will break 
 and spoil it. 
 
 Brocoli. As it is not of summer growth, it will not require 
 soaking for caterpillars. Trim it in the same manner as cauli¬ 
 flowers. It will take from twelve to twenty minutes boiling, 
 according to the size of the heads. If some heads are much 
 larger than others, either put them in a few minutes first, or 
 let them remain in a few minutes later. Perhaps the latter is 
 preferable, as putting in the cold vegetables to those which 
 boil, is apt to injure the colour. Brocoli is sometimes served 
 on a toast like asparagus. 
 
 Sea kale, is tied in bundles and boiled like asparagus. 
 
VEGETABLES. 05 
 
 and about the same length of time. Served on a toast, with 
 melted buttci or very rich gravy. 
 
 Spinach should be picked leaf by leaf, and washed in three 
 or four waters; then thoroughly drained. Boil it in plenty 
 of water very quickly, pressing it down frequently, that all may 
 he done equally; ten minutes will boil it. When done, 
 strain it on the hack of a sieve, and squeeze it quite dry with 
 a plate or between two trenchers : spread it in a dish, and score 
 it in squares of an inch and a half or two inches. 
 
 Another way. Take it up and squeeze it before it is quite 
 done; have ready a small stewpan, the bottom just covered 
 with rich gravy, boiling; put in the spinach, with a bit 
 of butter, two spoonfuls of cream, a little pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg; shake it well round, and let it stew five mi¬ 
 nutes. 
 
 Spinach is often served with poached eggs and buttered 
 toast, or slices of fried bread. 
 
 Gourd, or vegetable marrow. When the fruit is the 
 size of a pullet’s egg, it is fit to cut. Boil it in salt and vvatei 
 thirty minutes, or until it is tender: then cut it in slices one- 
 eighth of an inch thick, and spread it on a buttered toast 
 sprinkle pepper and salt, and pour over melted butter. 
 
 If the fruit he large, so that seeds have begun to form, 
 the whole seedy part must be scooped out. 
 
 Another way. Cut the fruit in slices raw; scoop out the 
 seeds, dip the slices in butter and fry them; serve with melted 
 butter and vinegar. 
 
 White beet. This is a very wholesome and agreeable 
 vegetable, and only requires a fair trial to bring it into much 
 more general use than at present. It is a handsome growing 
 plant, takes little room, and is hardy. The stalks and leaves 
 afford as complete a variety as two distinct vegetables. 
 
 The large fibrous stalks of the leaves (resembling in growth 
 those of rhubarb,) may be tied in bundles and boiled as aspa¬ 
 ragus. They are commonly eaten with melted butter and 
 
 vinegar. 
 
90 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 The leaves, when freed from the stalks, mav be dressed 
 in the same manner as spinach, which they greatly re¬ 
 semble. 
 
 Artichokes. Soak them in cold water, wash them well, 
 then put them into plenty of boiling water, with a handful of 
 salt, and let them boil gently till they are tender, which will 
 take an hour and a half, or two hours; the surest way to 
 know when they are done enough, is to draw out a leaf; trim 
 them and drain them on a sieve; and send up melted butter 
 with them, which is usually put into small cups, so that each 
 guest may have one. 
 
 Onions, boded as sauce for roast mutton, boiled rabbits, 
 &c. Take oft two coats of skin, throw the onions into boiling 
 water, let them boil five minutes, (not more,) then drain off 
 that water, and put some fresh, which you should have ready 
 boiling in a kettle. In this let them boil till quite tender, 
 then strain off and press. In a clean saucepan of a much 
 smaller size, put an ounce and a half, or two ounces of butter, 
 a little flour, half a teacup-ful of cream or new milk, a little 
 pepper and salt, and the onions; shake the whole well round 
 till it boils, then pour out. 
 
 Another way. Those who like the full flavour of onions, 
 only cut off the strings and tops, (without peeling off any of 
 the skins,) put them into salt and water, and let them lie an 
 hour; then wash them, put them into a kettle with plenty of 
 water, and boil them till they are tender: now skin them, 
 pass them through a colander, and mix a little melted butter 
 with them. 
 
 Stewed onions. T he large Portugal onions are the 
 best; take off the top coats of half a dozen of these, (taking 
 care not to cut off the tops or tails too near, or the onions will 
 go to pieces;) and put them into a stew-pan broad enough to 
 hold them, without laying them at top of one another, and just 
 cover them with good broth. 
 
 Put them over a slow fire, and let them simmer about two 
 hours; when you dish them, turn them upside down, thicken 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 97 
 
 the gravy with a bit of butter, a little cream and flour, simmer 
 two or three minutes, and pour over. 
 
 Fried onions, for eating with beef steak. Peel the 
 largest onions and cut them in slices the thickness of a penny 
 piece, put them in the frying pan with a little boiling water 
 and salt; let them boil four or live minutes, then drain off 
 the water perfectly dry, put at least one ounce of butter, shake 
 a dust of flour and fry till of a fine pale brown on both sides. 
 It is a very good way to scald the onions first, and leave them 
 draining in the colander while you fry the steak in the same 
 pan; then cover up the steak and fry the onions in what re¬ 
 mains in the pan from the steak. A much smaller quantity 
 of butter will suffice in that case, or indeed none at all, if a 
 bit is rubbed over the steak. 
 
 Browned onions, or onion gravy. Peel and slice 
 the onions (some put in an equal quantity of cucumber or 
 celery) into a quart stew-pan, with an ounce of butter; set it 
 on a slow fire, and turn the onion about till it is very lightly 
 browned; now gradually stir in half an ounce of flour; Tdd a 
 little broth, and a little pepper and salt; boil it up for a few 
 minutes, add a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup, (you may 
 sharpen it with a little lemon juice or vinegar) and rub it 
 through a tammis, or fine sieve. 
 
 If this sauce is for steaks, shred an ounce of onions, fry 
 them a nice brown, and put them to the sauce you have rub¬ 
 bed through a tammis; or some very small round young silver 
 button onions, peeled and boiled tender, and put in whole 
 when your sauce is done, will he an acceptable addition. 
 
 Roast onions. Choose the largest, do them with the 
 skins on; they will take an hour to do, may be done in from 
 of a brisk fire or on the embers of a wood fire that is nearly 
 expended, or in, or under a copper hole, or in an oven. They 
 are served in the skins, and eaten with cold butter and salt: 
 some people consider them a proper accompaniment for roast 
 potatoes or beet roots. 
 
 o 
 
A8 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Stewed cucumbers. Slice them thick; or halve and 
 divide them into two lengths; strew some salt and pepper, 
 and sliced onions; add a little broth, or a bit of butter. Sim¬ 
 mer very slowly; and before serving, if no butter was in be¬ 
 fore, put some, and a little flour, or if there was butter in, 
 only a little flour, unless it wants richness. 
 
 Another way. Slice the onions, and cut the cucumbers 
 large; flour them, and fry them in some butter; then pour 
 on some good broth or gravy, and stew them till done enough. 
 Skim off the fat. 
 
 Jerusalem artichokes. Boil them with the lid off, in 
 water just enough to cover them, try them with a fork, and 
 when they stick tender, drain them off immediately, peel and 
 serve as hot as possible; as they are exceedingly apt to chill 
 the best thing to serve them in is a hash-dish, which drops 
 into another deep dish, containing boiling water, and has a 
 cover. They are eaten with melted butter and vinegar, or 
 some people simmer a teacup-ful of rich veal broth, a piece of 
 butter, two spoonfuls of cream, a little flour, pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg; and pour these over them. 
 
 To stew celery. Wash six heads, and strip off their 
 outer leaves; either halve, or leave them whole, according to 
 their size; cut into lengths of four inches. Put them into a 
 stew-pan with a cup of broth, or weak white gravy: stew till 
 tender; then add two spoonfuls of cream, and a little flour 
 and butter seasoned with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and sim¬ 
 mer all together. 
 
 To FRY herbs for eating with calPs liver, or with rashers 
 and eggs: clean and drain four handfuls of young spinach, two 
 of ycung lettuce leaves, two of parsley and one of green onions, 
 
 e three latter to ire chopped and mingled among the former. 
 Set them on in a snail stew-pan or frying-pan that has a lid, 
 with an ounce or nther more of butter and some pepper 
 and salt. When the pan begins to grow warm, shake it 
 well and let it stand beside the Are or over a slow stove till 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 99 
 
 done enough. If to eat with rashers and eggs lay them 
 upon it. 
 
 To STEW RED CABBAGE. Wash, pick, and shred what 
 will fill a large pint bason. Melt some butter in a saucepan, 
 and put in the cabbage with only the water that hangs about 
 it, pepper, cayenne, salt, and an onion sliced. Stew this, 
 keeping the saucepan close covered; and when just ready 
 add a glass of vinegar, which may just boil up. Fried sau¬ 
 sages are served on this preparation; or it may be served with 
 bouilli. 
 
 Potatoes. This most important and every day article of 
 consumption is rarely enjoyed in perfection, except in the 
 Irish cabin or Scotch hovel, where it forms the only dish 
 They are far best when just ripe, fresh dug, well scrubbed, 
 sorted in size, and hastily boiled with scanty water, plenty of 
 salt and no lid to the vessel. As they cannot be just ripe 
 and. fresh dug all the year round, it is of importance to choose 
 those sorts which are best suited to the season of the year. 
 Potatoes may be had much earlier, but they are not really 
 good before midsummer; then come in Fox’s seedling, and 
 the Early Manly; soon afterwards the Early Champion is in 
 perfection. Late in August comes in the yellow mealy kid¬ 
 ney potatoe. In October the golden reed, which if properly 
 secured will last till potatoes come in again. 
 
 Moderate sized potatoes are preferable to very large ones. 
 Let them never be washed or in any way wetted until just as 
 they are to be used. New potatoes should be well scrubbed 
 with a birch broom and washed very clean; but not skinned 
 after boiling, as the time taken in skinning them causes them 
 to chill and become heavy. 
 
 In keeping potatoes through the winter, the great object 
 is to secure them against air, damp, and frost; but especially 
 the latter which is most destructive: a slight degree of frost ren- 
 ders potatoes very unwholesome, and a considerable degree of it 
 causes them speedily to rot. They may be kept in a cellar or 
 store room between layers of straw, or covered with mats, or 
 
100 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 buried in sand or in earth. This latter is the best way also 
 of keeping carrots and parsnips. 
 
 In spring, when potatoes become cld and specky, the best 
 way of doing them is to peel raw, cut out every speck, boil in 
 a small quantity of water, drain through a colander, put the 
 colander (covered up with a plate or napkin) to dry in a cool 
 oven, or on the hob, for a quarter of an hour; the potatoes 
 will then have become quite floury and fit to mash. In farm¬ 
 houses it is a common way to put into a saucepan of potatoes 
 two table-spoonfuls of brine, which makes them boil floury. 
 
 To boil potatoes. Wash them, but do not pare or 
 cut them unless they are very large; fill a saucepan half full 
 of potatoes of an equal size, or the small ones will be done to 
 pieces before the large ones are boiled enough. Put to them 
 as much cold water as will cover them about an inch, so that 
 they may be just covered at the finish. 
 
 Set them on a moderate fire till they boil, then lake them 
 off, and set them rather higher or by the side of the fire to 
 simmer more slowly till they are soft enough to admit a fork, 
 (place no dependence on the usual test of their skin cracking, 
 which will happen to some potatoes when they are not half 
 done, and the inside is quite hard,) then pour the water off, 
 (if you let the potatoes remain in the water a momenT after 
 they are done enough, they will become waxy and watery,) 
 uncover the saucepan, and set it at such a distance from the 
 fire as will secure it from burning; their superfluous moisture 
 will evaporate, and the potatoes will be perfectly dry and 
 mealy. You may afterwards place a napkin, folded up to the 
 size of the saucepan’s diameter, over the potatoes, to keep 
 them hot and mealy till wanted; but they are much best 
 served the moment they are done. 
 
 This method of managing potatoes in is every respect far 
 better than steaming them; and they are dressed in half the 
 time. 
 
 To steam potatoes. The potatoes must be well washed, 
 but not pared, and put into the steamer when the water boils. 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 101 
 
 Moderate sized potatoes will require three-quarters of an hour 
 to do them properly. They should be taken up as soon as 
 they are done enough, or they will become watery. Peel 
 them or not at pleasure. 
 
 Potatoes boiled and broiled. Boil your potatoes as 
 before directed, and put them on a gridiron over a very clear 
 and brisk fire; turn them till they are brown all over, and 
 send them up dry,- with melted butter in a cup. 
 
 Cold potatoes fried. Put a bit of clean dripping into 
 a frying-pan; when it is melted, slice in your potatoes with 
 a little pepper and salt, put them on the fire, keep stirring 
 them; when they are quite hot, they are ready. 
 
 This is a very good way of re-dressing potatoes. 
 
 Potatoes fried in slices or shavings. Peel large 
 potatoes ; slice them about a quarter of an inch thick, or cut 
 them in shavings round and round as you would peel a lemon; 
 dry them well in a clean cloth, and fry them in lard or drip¬ 
 ping. Take care that your fat and frying-pan are quite clean; 
 put it on a quick fire, watch it, and as soon as the lard boils, 
 and is still, put in the slices of potatoe, and keep moving them 
 till they are crisp; take tfem up and lay them to drain on a 
 sieve; send them up with a very little salt sprinkled over 
 them. 
 
 Potatoes fried whole. When nearly boiled enough, pu'. 
 them into a stew-pan with a bit of butter, or some nice clean 
 beef drippings; shake them about often (for fear of burning 
 them,) till they are brown and crisp : drain them from the fat. 
 
 It will be an improvement to this and the foregoing receipt, 
 previous to frying the potatoes, to flour them and dip them 
 in the yelk of an egg, and then roll them in fine sifted bread 
 crumbs. 
 
 Potatoes mashed. When your potatoes are thoroughly 
 boiled, drain dry, and pick out every speck, &c. and while 
 hot, rub them through a colander into a clean stew-pan: to a 
 
DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 1 02 
 
 pound of potatoes put about half an ounce of butte:, aud a 
 table-spoonful of milk: do not make them too moist; mix 
 them well together. 
 
 After Lady-day, when the potatoes are getting old and 
 specky, and in frosty weather, this is the best way of dressing 
 them. You may put them into shapes, egg them with the 
 yelk of egg, and brown them very slightly before a slow fire. 
 
 Potatoes mashed with onions. Prepare some boiled 
 onions, by putting them through a sieve, and mix them with 
 potatoes. In proportioning the onions to the potatoes, you 
 will be guided by your wish to have more or less of their 
 flavour. 
 
 Potatoes escaloped. Mash potatoes as before di¬ 
 rected ; then butter some nice clean scollop shells, or patte- 
 pans, put in your potatoes, make them smooth at the top, 
 cross a knife over them, strew a few fine bread crumbs on 
 them, sprinkle them with a paste brush with a few drops of 
 melted butter, and then set them in a Dutch oven; when 
 they are browned on the top, take them carefully out of the 
 shells, and brown the other side. 
 
 Colcannon. Boil potatoes and greens, or spinage, sepa¬ 
 rately. Mash the potatoes, squeeze the greens dry, chop 
 them quite fine, and mix them with the potatoes with a little 
 butter, pepper, and salt. Put it into a mould, greasing it 
 well first; let it stand in a hot oven for ten minutes. 
 
 To roast potatoes. Wash and dry your potatoes (all 
 of a size,) and put them in a tin Dutch oven, or cheese 
 toaster; take care not to put them too near the fire, or they 
 will get burnt on the outside before they are warmed through. 
 Large potatoes will require two hours to roast them. To 
 save time and trouble, some cooks half boil them first. 
 
 This is one of the best opportunities the baker has to rival 
 the cook. 
 
 Potatoes roasted under meat. Half boil large pota- 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 103 
 
 toes, drain the water from them, and put them into an earthen 
 dish, or small tin pan, under meat that is roasting, and 
 baste them with some of the dripping; when they are browned 
 on one side, turn them and brown the other. Send them up 
 round the meat, or in a small dish. 
 
 Potatoe balls. Mix mashed potatoes with the yelk of 
 an egg, roll them into balls, flour them, or egg and bread¬ 
 crumb them, and fry them in clean drippings, or brown them 
 in a Dutch oven. 
 
 Potatoe snow. The potatoes must be free from spots, 
 and the whitest you can pick out; put them on in cold water; 
 when they begin to crack, strain the water from them, and 
 put them into a clean stew-pan by the side of the fire till they 
 are quite dry and fall to pieces; rub them through a wire 
 sieve on the dish they are to be sent up in, and do not disturb 
 them afterwards. 
 
 To dress new potatoes. The best way to clean new 
 potatoes is to rub them with a coarse cloth or a flannel, or 
 scrubbing brush. Boil them as directed in the first receipt. 
 New potatoes are poor, watery, and insipid, till they are full 
 wo inches diameter. 
 
 Some cooks prepare sauces to pour over potatoes, made 
 with butter, salt, and pepper, or gravy, or melted butter and 
 catsup, or stew the potatoes in ale, or water seasoned with 
 pepper and salt; or bake them with herrings, or sprats, mixed 
 with layers of potatoes, seasoned with pepper, salt, sweet 
 herbs, vinegar, and water; or cut mutton or beef into slices, 
 and lay them in a stew-pan, and on them potatoes and spices, 
 then another layer of the meat alternately, pouring in a little 
 water, covering it up very close, and stewing slowly. Or put 
 new potatoes when boiled, between two plates with a good 
 piece of cold butter and shake them together till the butter is 
 dissolved among them ; they must then be eaten immediately. 
 
 Red beet roots. Wash and scrub them clean, but 
 avoid scraping or in any way touching with a knife, or the 
 
104 
 
 domestic: cookerv. 
 
 colour will fly; boil them whole, then peel ank cut in slices 
 anti pour cold vinegar over them. According to their size 
 they will take from an hour and a half to three hours boiling;: 
 put salt in the boil. "1 his is a very wholesome vegetable, 
 both palatable and ornamental in salads and for garnishing, 
 especially of salt fish, salt beef, &c. when used for this latter 
 purpose, no vinegar should be added. 
 
 Beet roots make a good dish, thus—parboil the roots, 
 then skin and slice them and stew with small onions in a little 
 gravy, with pepper and salt; and when nearly done a bit of 
 butter rolled in flour or cream. Some dispense with the but¬ 
 ter and prefer a spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 Baked beet roots are very palatable, wholesome, and 
 nutritious. They may be done dry in the same manner as 
 potatoes are roasted; and eaten with pepper, salt, and cold 
 butter. 
 
 Carrots. Let them be well washed and brushed, not 
 scraped; an hour is enough for young spring carrots; grown 
 carrots will take from an hour and a half to two hours 
 and a half. When done, rub off the peels with a clean coarse 
 cloth, and slice them in two or four, according to their size 
 The best way to try if they are done enough, is to pierce 
 them with a fork. 
 
 Many people are fond of cold carrot with cold beef. 
 
 Parsnips are to be cooked just in the same manner as 
 carrots; they require more or less time according to their size, 
 therefore match them in size; and you must try them, by 
 thrusting a fork into them as they are in the water; when 
 that goes easily through, they are done enough; boil them 
 from an hour to two hours, according to their size and 
 freshness. 
 
 Parsnips are sometimes sent up mashed in the same way as 
 turnips, and some cooks quarter them before they boil them. 
 
 Turnips. Peel off half an inch of the string outside; 
 
 f 
 
VEGETABLES. 
 
 1 6 
 
 full-grown turnips will talcc about an hour and a half gentle 
 boiling; if you quarter them, which most people do, they will be 
 done sooner; try them with a fork,—when tender take them 
 up, and lay them on a sieve till the water is thoroughly drain¬ 
 ed from them : send them up whole. 
 
 To very young turnips leave about two inches of the green 
 top. 
 
 Mashed turnips. When they are boiled quite tender, 
 squeeze them as dry as possible between two trenchers, put 
 them into a saucepan, mash them with a wooden spoon, and 
 rub them through a colander; add a little bit of butter, keep 
 stirring them till the butter is melted and well mixed with 
 them, and they are ready for table; besides the butter a 
 spoonful of cream and a little pepper and salt are generally 
 added, and will be found a great improvement. 
 
 Fried parsley. Let it be nicely picked and washed, 
 then put into a cloth, and swung backwards and forwards till 
 it is perfectly dry; put it into a pan of hot fat, fry it quick, 
 and have a slice ready to take it out the moment it is crisp, 
 (in another moment it will be spoilt;) put it on a sieve, or 
 coarse cloth, before the fire to drain. 
 
 Crisp parsley. Pick and wash young parsley, shake it 
 in a dry cloth to drain the water from it; spread it on a sheet 
 of clean paper, in a Dutch oven before the fire, and turn it 
 frequently until it is quite crisp. This is a much more easy 
 way of preparing it than frying it, which is not seldom ill 
 done. 
 
 It is a very pretty garnish for lamb chops, fish, &c. 
 
 Green peas soup. In shelling the peas, divide the old 
 from the young; put the old ones, with an ounce of butter, a 
 pint of water, the outside leaves of a lettuce or two, two onions, 
 pepper and salt, to stew till you can pulp the peas; and when 
 you have done so, put to the liquor that stewed them some 
 more water, the hearts and tender stalks of the lettuces, the 
 yom<g peas, a handful of spinach cut small, and salt and prp- 
 
 P 
 
Iff) 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 per to relish properly, and stew till quite soft. If the soup is 
 too thin, or not rich enough, either of these faults may be re¬ 
 moved by adding an ounce or two of butter, mixed with a 
 spoonful of rice or wheat flour, and boiled with it half an 
 hour. Before serving, boil some green mint shred fine in 
 the soup. 
 
 When there is plenty of vegetables, no meat is necessary, 
 but if meat be preferred, a pig’s foot or ham-bone, &c. may be 
 boiled with the old peas, which is called the stock. More 
 butter than is mentioned above may be used with advantage, 
 if the soup is required to be very rich. 
 
 When peas first come in, or are very young, the stock 
 may be made of the shells washed, and boiled till they 
 will pulp with the above; more thickening will then be 
 wanted. 
 
 Another way. Having shelled half a peck of fine green 
 peas, boil the well-washed shells, till very soft, in three quarts 
 of water, with an onion, some pepper and allspice, a bunch of 
 mint and other herbs, and another of parsley, and strain off 
 the liquor; then boil the peas in a quart of water, with a 
 little sugar; and, heating the strained liquor, add that also. 
 In the mean time, having chopped all the parsley and green 
 herbs small, and fried them with a quarter of a pound of but¬ 
 ter, and a little flour and salt, add them to the soup, with 
 another quarter of a pound of butter rolled in flour ; let them 
 boil three quarters of an hour, season to palate, and serve 
 up in a tureen, with thin slices or sippets of bread, dried be¬ 
 fore the fire, but not toasted or brown, placed on a plate. 
 French roll is still better than bread. If a fine colour be 
 desired, add half a pint of spinach juice just before taking the 
 soup; but it must no* be afterward suffered to boil. 
 
 Another way. In the liquor in which has boiled a knucklf 
 of veal, or leg or neck of lamb, boil for half an hour the shellj 
 of half a peck of green peas and a few tops of mint; then 
 strain off, make the liquor boil up again, then throw in the 
 peas, a handful of young onions, the same of young carrots, 
 of parsley, and hearts of young lettuces nicely picked and 
 chopped, and a little salt; let it boil half an hour, or rather 
 more. It may be enriched with butter rolled in flour, or 
 
SALADS. 
 
 lot 
 
 cream, but is much more wholesome without these additions, 
 especially for the use of children, with whom it is generally a 
 favourite dish. 
 
 Other vegetable soups will be found under the general head 
 of soups. 
 
 Porridge of green peas, onions, or leeks. In two 
 quarts of water or liquor in which fresh meat has been boiled, 
 boil a quart (when shelled) of green peas, or a dozen large- 
 onions or leeks; when they are quite tender have ready four 
 table-spoonfuls of oatmeal or flour, rubbed perfectly smooth in 
 a quart of new milk, which stir in, and keep stirring until it 
 boils and thickens; then take it off’ the fire directly, season 
 with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and stir in two ounces of 
 butter. 
 
 , Of Salads. 
 
 Salad herbs are cooling and refreshing. They correct the 
 putrescent and scorbutic qualities of animal food, and purify 
 the blood. They also form a pleasing accompaniment to 
 many dishes, especially to cold meat, and are ornamental either 
 on the table or sideboard. 
 
 Lettuce is the principal ingredient in a salad. The best 
 summer lettuce is the white cos, next to that the green cos; 
 and for standing the winter, the Bath cos and brown Dutch; 
 they should be blanched by tying up with bass a week or so 
 before using, and should be eaten as fresh as possible after cut¬ 
 ting. Lettuce possesses soporific powers, and is recommended 
 &s a supper article for bad sleepers. 
 
 Endive, of different kinds, forms a useful part of winter 
 salads. The curled leaf is the best; they should be blanched 
 by laying tiles upon them. 
 
 Corn-salad and watercresses ; both are remarkably 
 hoiesome, the leaves of both should be of a brownish cast. 
 
I OB 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Mustard and cress, or small salading, form an 
 agreeable spring variety. They may be raised very quickly 
 and early in the season on a hot bed, or under a hand-glass 
 in a south border; but as the cress is slower of growth, it 
 should be sown two or three days before the mustard. 
 
 Celery, when young and properly blanched, contributes 
 much by its crispness and peculiar nutty flavour, to the 
 perfect composition of a salad. 
 
 Cucumbers either sliced by themselves, or mingling with 
 other articles in the general salad, are much esteemed for 
 their fine flavour, but are reckoned rather crude and un¬ 
 wholesome. 
 
 Radishes, when young and quick grown are juicy and 
 cooling, but a very few days changes their nature and they 
 become woody and acrid. 
 
 Young onions also are much esteemed, and even scal¬ 
 lions ; but as the flavour of these is offensive to many persons, 
 they should not be mixed in a salad but served in a separate 
 dish, unless it be known that they are agreeable to all the 
 company. 
 
 A variety of other herbs mingled in salads, many of them 
 wild, such as sorrel, pimpernelle and dandelion, which last if 
 full grown and properly blanched before it begins to head 
 for flower, is equal to the finest endive, of which indeed it is 
 a species. Nor must the red beet be omitted, which is a 
 wholesome addition and beautiful garnish to a salad. 
 
 Let the herbs be as fresh as possible, nicely trimmed, 
 picked, and cleared of vermin. Let them be carefully and 
 repeatedly washed, but not suffered to remain long in the 
 water. Let them drain awhile in a colander, and then shake 
 them in a thin strainer cloth until perfectly dry. 
 
 Let die dressing of the salad be deferred as near to the 
 time of eating as possible, otherwise i: is apt to become flabby. 
 The most simple way of dressing salad is by far the most 
 wholesome—merely with salt, oil, and vinegar to taste. Eggs, 
 
SALADS. 
 
 109 
 
 cream, and all the various additions considered essential to a 
 complete salad, are exceedingly apt to disorder the stomach. 
 However, it is our part to give directions for dressing salads, 
 and that of our readers to observe what agrees or disagrees 
 with their health, and to act accordingly. 
 
 The best way of mixing a salad, is to prepare the dressings 
 in the salad bowl, then add the lettuoe and other herbs, 
 arranging the whole in a tasty and graceful manner. 
 
 The best Florence oil is unquestionably the best and most 
 wholesome softening ingredient in a salad mixture; but as 
 some persons dislike it, and (especially in country places) it 
 cannot always be obtained, the following may serve as substi¬ 
 tutes for it:— 
 
 1. The gravy that has dripped from roast meat. 
 
 2. Good sweet thick cream. 
 
 3. Fresh butter melted without any addition of flour or 
 water. This process must be managed very carefully, or the 
 butter will be apt to oil and curdle. The butter should be 
 melted in a very small silver or earthen vessel, shaken one 
 way only, and kept near the fire no longer than just to dis¬ 
 solve the lumps. 
 
 Eggs used in the composition of salads, should be boiled 
 quite hard, ten or twelve minutes, and suffered to become 
 perfectly cold before mixing with the other ingredients. If 
 not boiled long enough beforehand to ensure this, the cooling 
 may be expedited by putting them in cold water. 
 
 The following will be found good proportions. The yelks 
 of two eggs rubbed very smooth with a little very rich cream; 
 some people rub them through a seive, but if thoroughly 
 boiled, perfectly cold, and well rubbed, it is not necessary. 
 When well mixed, add a tea-spoonful of thick made mustard, 
 a little salt, and a little powdered loaf sugar if approved; next 
 add two table-spoonfuls of oil, (butter, or cream,) and then 
 three of the best white wine vinegar. At every stage of the 
 process, see that the articles arc thoroughly well incorporated 
 with each other, before any fresh article be added, otherwise 
 the mixture, which ought to resemble a smooth batter, will be 
 either lumpy, curdled, or watery. Next lay the heibs lightly 
 over, garnishing the top with radishes, celery, beet root sliced, 
 
no 
 
 DOMESTIC CU1JKERY. 
 
 and the white of the eggs. Some people add the coral of a 
 lobster or a crab cut in slices and laid among the green and 
 white vegetables, so as best to contrast the colours. ^Vhe.n 
 mustard is not approved, cayenne pepper may be substituted; 
 half the quantity will suffice. Cucumbers require only to be 
 very thinly sliced; slices of onion added if approved; and a 
 pickle of pepper, salt, oil, and vinegar. 
 
 As some people are fond of having things out of season, 
 we insert the following directions for preserving green peas 
 and French beans for winter use; but after all they have been 
 justly called the ghosts, or rather the carcases of those articles, 
 for the spirit and essence are gone, and those who have a 
 mind to try them for Christmas eating will most likely after¬ 
 wards coincide in our opinion, and be content with them when 
 fresh gathered in their proper season. 
 
 To KEEP GREEN peas. Shell, and put them into a ket¬ 
 tle of water when it boils; give them two or three warms 
 only, and pour them into a colander. When the water drains 
 off, turn them out on a dresser covered with cloth, and pour 
 them on another cloth to dry perfectly. Then bottle them 
 in wide-mouthed bottles; leaving only room to pour clarified 
 mutton suet upon them an inch thick, and for the cork. 
 Rosin it down; and keep it in a cellar or in the earth, as will 
 be directed for gooseberries under the head of preserved 
 fruits. When they are to be used, boil them till tender, 
 with a bit of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a bit of mint. 
 
 Another way, as practised in the Emperor of Russia’s 
 kitchen. Shell, scald, and dry them as above: put them on 
 tins or earthen dishes in a cool oven once or twice to harden. 
 Keep them in paper bags hung up in the kitchen. When 
 they are to be used, let them lie an hour in water; then set 
 them on with cold water and a bit of butter, and boil them 
 till ready. Put a sprig of dried mint to boil with them. 
 
 French beans. Pick them young, and throw into a little 
 wooden keg a layer of them three inches deep; then sprinkle 
 them with salt, put another Iaver of beans, and do the same as 
 
PRESERVING VEGETABLES. 
 
 HI 
 
 high as you think proper, alternately with salt, but not too much 
 of this. Lay over them a plate, or cover of wood, that will 
 go into the keg, and put a heavy stone on it. A pickle will 
 rise from the beans and salt. If they are too salt, the soaking 
 and boiling will not be sufficient to make them pleasant to the 
 taste. When they are to be eaten, cut, soak, and boil them 
 as if fresh. 
 
 Onions keep best roped and hung up in a dry cold room. 
 
 Artichoke bottoms, slowly dried, should be kept in 
 paper bags; and truffles, morels, lemon-peel, See. in a dry 
 place, ticketed. 
 
 Small cabbages, laid on a stone floor before the frost 
 sets in, will blanch and be very fine, after many weeks’ 
 keeping. 
 
 Shallots may be either roped as onions, or separated 
 from the haum and hung up in paper bags in a dry place. 
 
 I he best way to preserve sweet and savoury herbs for 
 winter use, is, 1. To gather them at the right time, that is, 
 just before they begin to flower. 2. For that purpose be sure 
 to choose a fine dry day, and gather them when the dew is 
 oft’. 3. To clean them well from dust and dirt; cut off the 
 roots, and separate the hunches into smaller ones. 4. Dry 
 them as quickly as possible without scorching them; the best 
 way of doing this is to lay them pretty singly on a stove or in 
 a Dutch oven in front of the fire. Thus their flavour and 
 colour will be best preserved. 5. When thoroughly dried, 
 pick off the leaves, pound and rub through a hair sieve, and keep 
 them in bottles closely stopped down. 
 
 Basil is in the best state for drying from the middle of 
 August, and three weeks after. 
 
 Knotted Marjoram , from the beginning of July, and dur¬ 
 ing the same. 
 
 Winter and Summer Savory , the latter end of July, and 
 throughout August. 
 
112 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Thyme , Lemon Thyme , and Orange Thyme, during June 
 and July. 
 
 Mint, latter end of June, and during July. 
 
 Balm in June. This is better preserved in bunches in 
 a place free from dust. 
 
 Sage, August and September. 
 
 Tarragon, June, July, and August. 
 
 Chervil, May, June, and July. 
 
 Burnet, June, July, and August. 
 
 Parsley, Fennel, Elder Flowers , and Orange Flowers , 
 during May, June, and July. 
 
 Herbs nicely dried are a very acceptable substitute when 
 fresh ones cannot be got,—but, however carefully dried, the 
 flavour and fragrance of the fresh herbs is incomparably finer; 
 and by those who have a sheltered garden, may generally be 
 obtained, except in a very hard winter, to provide against which 
 it is well to secure some dried herbs. 
 
 The seeds of parsley, fennel, celery, and some others, 
 answer every purpose of imparting a flavour when the green 
 herbs cannot be obtained, and are perhaps preferable to dried 
 leaves. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 FISH, PLAINLY DRESSED. 
 
 Pish requires great care in cooking, as it is easily spoiled 
 both in flavour and appearance; if underdone it is both un¬ 
 pleasant and unwholesome, if overdone a minute or two, it 
 breaks to pieces and is scarcely fit to send to table. Rules 
 can never make a good fish cook, she must become so by her 
 own observation and practice. 
 
Some kinds of fish are better kept a day or two alter being 
 caught, as turbot, cod, salmon, skate, &c. 
 
 Others ought to be dressed as quickly as possible, as Mac- 
 karel, herrings, sprats, and all kinds of freshwater fish. 
 
 The cleaning of fish is a very important matter; the fish¬ 
 mongers in general do it, but it wants better and more thorough 
 doing than theirs. In cleaning of fish, three things require 
 attention. 1. Entirely to remove the entrails. 2. To re¬ 
 move any blood that may have settled down the back bone. 
 3. To avoid breaking the gall-bag. Some fish must be slit 
 open in order to clean them; of others, the entrails may be 
 drawn out at the gills; this is preferable when it can be adopt¬ 
 ed. Pearch are cleaned in this way. 
 
 Some fish require to be scraped from scales, as salmon * 
 and of freshwater fish, pearch, roach, dace, &c. 
 
 Others require to be skinned, as soals and eels. 
 
 Others have nothing of this kind done to them, as mackarel, 
 whiting, &c. 
 
 Fish that is to be fried should be washed as little as pos¬ 
 sible, and care taken to have it perfectly dry; if it can be 
 thoroughly cleaned with only wiping, it is all the better. If 
 it must be washed, it should be done an hour or two before 
 dressing, drained some minutes in a colander, then wiped with 
 a soft cloth and wrapped in a very dry coarse one. 
 
 Plaice, after being cleaned, (whether for frying or boiiing) 
 snould be lightly sprinkled with salt, and hung up for two or 
 tnree hours; they will then eat nearly as firm as turbot. 
 
 Fish should be washed in salt and water, in the proportion 
 of a pound to a gallon, which, now salt is so cheap, will not be 
 thought much of, considering the improvement it aft'ords to 
 the fish. 
 
 A pan in which fish is fried should have a thick bottom 
 to prevent its burning. The fire should be brisk and clear, 
 but not blazing. Allow plenty of good clear lard or dripping; 
 let it fast boil before the fish is put in: the fish should be 
 either sprinkled with flour, or washed with egg and dipped in 
 bread crumbs. Put no more in the pan at once, than you 
 
114 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 can easily turn ; when one side is crisp and of a fine yellowish 
 brown, turn it. Be sure to have your dish, plates, and fish 
 drainers quite hot; and your sauce ready to serve immediately 
 you take it up. The same fat will serve many times in suc¬ 
 cession, if it be strained or poured quite clear of sediment. 
 Fish fried in oil is very delicious, but it must be esteemed an 
 expensive luxury. 
 
 For boiled fish, a little salt and vinegar added to the water, 
 makes the fish firm. Let the liquor be skimmed as fast as 
 the scum rises. In order that the thick parts of fish, (as for 
 instance a cod’s head and shoulders) should be thoroughly 
 done without breaking, the best way is to keep it a long time 
 at a gentle simmer without suffering it to boil. 
 
 Mackarel is best set on in cold water, and simmered 
 until the eye starts and the tail splits. When this is the 
 case let them be immediately raised out of the water, and if 
 possible served directly; if they must be kept a few minutes, 
 put the tin drainer across the fish kettle and cover with a 
 napkin. In order to clean mackarel properly, and to secure 
 the roe being thoroughly done, it is better to open a slit oppo¬ 
 site the middle of the roe. The usual sauce with mackarel 
 is fennel, or parsley and butter. 
 
 Turbot being drawn and rubbed lightly with salt, may be 
 kept a day or two with advantage, provided the weather be 
 moderate. It must be hung in a cool place. An hour or 
 two before it is wanted to be dressed, soak it in spring water 
 with more or less salt; and if, at any time, it should not be 
 perfectly sweet, shift the water five or six times, and put a 
 larger quantity of salt than usual in the mouth and belly. 
 The turbot kettle being of a proper size, put the fish on the 
 plate, cover it well with cold water, set it over a gentle fire; 
 add a handful of salt and half a gill of vinegar; carefully take 
 oft’ the scum as it rises, and preserve in every way the deli¬ 
 cacy of its colour from injury. When it boils up, put in a 
 little cold water, and take out some of the hot: then, almost 
 immediately, add more cold water; and, on its again boiling. 
 
FISH. 
 
 115 
 
 if it be not very large, take it off the fire: for it is a general 
 rule, that fish should never be suffered to boil strongly up. 
 Boiled turbot is occasionally served up with many different 
 sauces; but, in general, lobster or shrimp is preferred to 
 all others. This, therefore, in one tureen, with anchovy but¬ 
 ter, and plain butter, in two others, is now the usual style. 
 The proper garnish for a turbot is sprigs of curled parsley, 
 sliced lemon, and scraped horseradish, alternately placed round 
 the dish. Sometimes, however, it is dished up, surrounded 
 only with nicely-fried smelts. 
 
 •> 
 
 Salmon is better put on in warmish water, with salt and 
 vinegar. Be very careful in removing the scum as fast as it 
 rises; and to prevent its gathering, boil the liver in a separate 
 saucepan. Have plenty of water to cover it, let it boil very 
 gently from twenty minutes to three quarters of an hour, 
 according to the thickness of the fish. 
 
 When the eyes start and the fins draw out quite easily, 
 the fish is done, provided the process has been carried on 
 slowly, which is of the first importance in boiling fish. Lob¬ 
 ster, shrimp, and anchovy sauce are proper. 
 
 To boil cod. Wash and clean the fish, and rub a little 
 salt in the inside of it; (if the weather is very cold, a large 
 cod is the better for being kept a day:) put plenty of water 
 in your fish-kettle, so that the fish may be well covered: put 
 in a large handful of salt; and when it is dissolved, put in 
 your fish; a very small fish will require from fifteen to twenty 
 minutes, after the water boils; large ones about half an hour. 
 Drain it on the fish plate; dish it with a garnish of the roe, 
 liver, chitterlings, &c. 
 
 Oyster sauce is most esteemed with boiled cod, and horse¬ 
 radish for garnish. 
 
 A cod’s tail, which is spoiled if boiled with the fish, is 
 exceedingly good fried. Two or three may often be bought 
 cheap at the fishmonger’s who cut them off to oblige their 
 stylish customers. Serve with anchovy sauce. 
 
TIG 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 Haddock and whiting require but little boiling; they 
 may be put on in the water blood warm with a little salt and 
 vinegar. A haddock of 3 lbs. will take about ten minutes 
 after the water boils; smaller sized in proportion. Oyster or 
 anchovy sauce. If salted a day or two and then boiled, egg 
 sauce i.s usually eaten with them. These fish are equally 
 good fried or broiled, especially whiting; to fry, they should 
 be turned round, the tail in the mouth, dipped in eggs and 
 bread crumbs. Anchovy sauce. 
 
 If broiled they should be well dried in a cloth, and then 
 rolled well in flour; and before they are put*on the gridiron, 
 the bars should be made very clean, and rubbed with a bit of 
 fat bacon to prevent the whiting sticking to the bars. 
 
 Haddocks, or largo whiting are very good baked with 
 a pudding in the belly, and served with good gravy, or melted 
 butter and catsup. The pudding may be made in the follow¬ 
 ing manner: take an equal quantity of fat bacon, beef suet, 
 and fresh butter, some savory, thyme, and parsley, a few 
 leaves of sweet marjoram, two anchovies, with some salt, pep¬ 
 per, and nutmeg; to this add crumbs, and an egg to bind. 
 Oysters added to the above will be a considerable improve¬ 
 ment. 
 
 To boil soles. A fine fresh thick sole is almost as 
 good eating as a turbot. Wash and clean it nicely; put it 
 into a fish-kettle with a handful of salt, and as much cold 
 water as will cover it; set it on the side of the fire, take off 
 the scum as it rises, and let it boil gently; about five minutes 
 (according to its size) will be long enough, unless it be very 
 large. Send it up on a fish-drainer, garnished with slices of 
 lemon and sprigs of curled parsley, or nicely fried smelts, or 
 oysters. 
 
 To fry soles. Take off the skin, rub the fish over 
 with the yelk of an egg, and strew on some crumbs of bread. 
 Fry them in hog’s lard over a brisk fire, till they are of a fine 
 light brown. Then take them up, drain them, put them into 
 
FISH. 
 
 117 
 
 your dish, and serve them up with plain melted ouuer and 
 anchovy sauce. 
 
 To dress A large plaice. Keep it a day sprinkled 
 with salt, after which wash and wipe it dry, wet it over with 
 egg, and cover with crumbs of bread. When your lard, to 
 which must be added two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, is boiling 
 hot, lay the fish in it, and fry it of a fine colour; when, 
 enough, drain it from the fat, and serve with fried parsley 
 and anchovy sauce. This fish is equally good boiled and 
 served with oyster sauce. 
 
 To fry smelts. They should not be washed more than 
 is necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth; then lightly 
 flour them, but shake it off. Dip them into plenty of egg, 
 then into bread crumbs grated fine, and plunge them into a 
 good pan of boiling lard; let them continue gently boiling, 
 and a few minutes will make them a bright yellow brown. 
 Take care not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, 
 or their beauty will be lost. 
 
 To boil salt fish. The fish must be soaked for a 
 length of time corresponding to its dryness, and the hardness 
 it has acquired. Soak it in cold water for a night; that done, 
 if still hard, beat it well with a paste-roller, and soak it in 
 lukewarm water. Let it come very slowly to boil. When 
 it has simmered for an hour and a half by the side of the fire 
 take up the pieces; clean off the dirty filmy skin, and trim 
 them neatly from bones, &c. Place them in the stew-pan or 
 on the strainer, and pour boiling water over them, which will 
 both freshen and soften the fish. Never allow the fish to 
 boil till it is almost ready. Serve with egg sauce, and parsnips 
 mashed with plenty of butter. Mashed potatoes are also 
 served with salt fish, and mustard must never be forgotten. 
 Garnish with hard boiled eggs in circular slices, yelks and 
 
 white.- Observations .—At sea, salt fish is dressed after a 
 
 very palatable fashion, by pulling it into flakes, and beating it 
 up with mashed potatoes and butter. 
 
113 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 To PRY sprats, &c. Clean them well*, and when 
 wiped dry rub them with flour to absorb any moisture that 
 remains. Dip them in beat egg, and then in bread crumbs 
 rubbed through a colander. Fry them in plenty of oil, lard, 
 or clarified dripping, making it quite hot. Take care in turn 
 in£r not to break them. 
 
 O 
 
 To broil sprats, smelts, &c. Run a long bird skewer 
 through the eyes, or a common knitting needle. Dust them 
 with flour, and have a hot gridiron rubbed with mutton suet, 
 and a clear fire. Serve them very hot.j 
 
 To broil fresh herrings. Choose the true silver¬ 
 stringed herring, which requires no drawing; wipe perfectly 
 clean; rub the bars of the gridiron with mutton suet or fat 
 bacon ; have a clear fire, lay them on, and when nicely browned 
 turn them. Serve very hot with cold butter. 
 
 To dress red herrings, See. Skin, open, and trim 
 red herrings. If old and hard pour some hot small beer over 
 them, and let them steep half an hour. Broil them over 
 a clear fire at a considerable distance, or before the fire; rub 
 them with good oil or fresh butter while broiling, and rub on 
 a little more when they are served. Serve them very hot 
 with cold butter, or melted butter and mustard, and mashed 
 potatoes or parsnips.—Steep pickled herrings from one to two 
 days and nights, changing the water if they be very salt. 
 Hang them up on a stick pushed through the eyes, and broil 
 them when wanted. These are buffed herrings. 
 
 To fry eels. Skin and clean them, rub them with salt, 
 and wash them in several w’aters. Cut them in four inch 
 lengths, and, having rubbed them with salt and mixed spices, 
 dip them in beat egg, and roll in crumbs. Fry in plenty of 
 boiling lard, drain from the fat on a sieve before the fire, and 
 
 * This cleaning consists meraljr in wdl wiping them; they are never 
 gutted. 
 
FISH. 
 
 119 
 
 serve them with chervil, or parsley and butter, or melted but¬ 
 ter, or melted butter sharpened with vinegar, or lemon juice. 
 
 - Observation .—The fat in which eels are fried does not 
 
 answer well for other fish. 
 
 The best eels are found in the clearest water; the silver 
 eel is the mildest and most esteemed; the dingy yellow and 
 deep sallow green are never good. The difficulty of depriv¬ 
 ing an eel of life, and the cruelty of flaying and cutting it up 
 while sensitive life continues, have induced many humane 
 persons wholly to abstain from a species of food involving a 
 practice so repugnant to their feelings. To remedy this, if 
 the spinal marrow at the back part of the skull be pierced 
 with a sharp skewer, all capability of pain will instantly cease, 
 it has been said “ life,” and in a sense life may be said to 
 cease then; but as the muscular motion may be exercised 
 long after, we fear our readers will not give us credit should 
 we say that the creature was dead. It is enough for them 
 and for us to be assured, and on that assurance reliance may 
 be placed, that all capacity of suffering has ceased. 
 
 Pearch have no air bladder, and the entrails may be drawn 
 out at the gills: all other freshwater fish, we believe, require 
 to be slit. 
 
 Jack, or pike (which is only another name for the same 
 fish after it has attained a certain size) are sometimes boiled 
 and eaten with parsley and butter, more frequently cut in 
 pieces about four inches long and fried, sometimes they are 
 stuffed with a pudding of herbs, baked, and eaten with good 
 gravy. 
 
 With freshwater fish in general, fried, the only sauce re¬ 
 quired is thick melted butter, to which may be added if ap¬ 
 proved, mushroom or walnut catsup. Or in mushroom season 
 a very good fish sauce may be made by sprinkling salt on a 
 few fresh mushrooms, make a little good thick melted butter, 
 add to it the mushrooms and liquor, a little cayenne pepper, 
 a little nutmeg and a spoonful of cream, and simmer for three 
 or four minutes. 
 
L’O 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY. 
 
 To feed oysters. Lay them with the round shall 
 downwards in a pan or tub; scatter salt over them, and cover 
 with fresh river or rain water. Change the liquor every 
 twelve hours, and if any of the oysters are open, and do not 
 instantly close on being touched, remove them as they are 
 dead and will corrupt the rest. A little oatmeal or flour is 
 often sprinkled in the water; it makes the oysters plump and 
 white, if they are for immediate eating, but they do not keep 
 long after it. 
 
 Oysters are particularly wholesome, being nourishing, 
 strengthening, and easy of digestion; for these reasons they 
 are often recommended to the delicate and the declining. 
 When eaten for health, oysters are best swallowed in their 
 own liquor the moment they are opened. If too cold for the 
 6tomach a little pepper may be added, and hot milk drank 
 with them; vinegar should always be avoided by invalids, as it 
 destroys the tendency of the oysters to enrich the blood. 
 Various modes of dressing oysters will be found in the list of 
 higher preparations of fish. 
 
 To pickle salmon. Place what is left in a deep dish, 
 with a close cover. To a quart of the liquor in which the 
 fish was boiled put a half ounce ot black pepper and allspice 
 in grains, and hall a pint of the best vinegar, and a teaspoon¬ 
 ful of salt. Boil this with a bay leaf or two, and a sprig of 
 lemon thyme. When cold pour it over the salmon, which 
 must be kept covered. This pickle will keep the fish good 
 for some days; but if it be necessary to keep it longer, boil 
 up the pickle, adding more vinegar and spice, and when cold 
 pour it again on the fish. 
 
 Another way. Aberdeen Method. Boil salmon, as if in¬ 
 tended immediately for the table, in water mixed with a good 
 quantity of common salt; then lay it to drain, till cold, in the 
 open air. Afterwards put it in a close cask or pot, with a 
 gallon of vinegar to thirty pounds of salmon, and half the 
 quantity of water in which the fish was boiled. Great care 
 must be used in taking ofl’ the scum as it rises, during the 
 whole time the salmon is boiling, which should on no account 
 be overdone. 
 
fish. 
 
 12 [ 
 
 Berwick Method. Take a salmon of about twelve pounds 
 weight, and having cut off the head, divide it into pieces 
 without splitting. Scrape the blood from the bone, and wash 
 it well out, tie it across in squares, set it in the pan with two 
 quarts of water and three of strong beer, half a pound of bay 
 and one of common salt. Skim it well while boiling, and 
 add as much fish as the liquor will cover. When done 
 enough, take it out, and lay the pieces on dishes till the next 
 day; then put them into pots, and add to the liquor three 
 quarts of strong beer vinegar, half an ounce of mace, as much 
 cloves and black pepper, one ounce of long pepper, and double 
 that quantity of sliced ginger. Boil these ingredients for 
 half an hour, then pour the whole quite hot over the fish, 
 which, when cold, must be covered with strong brown paper. 
 
 Another way; in our opinion preferable to all the rest. 
 Cut and wash the slices of salmon ; put them in boiling brine ; 
 boil half an hour; when done, dry on a cloth; pack it close 
 in a pan or tub; cover it over with strong vinegar, and close it 
 up. N. B.—Sturgeon is done the same way. 
 
 For the ordinary family purpose of preserving either sal¬ 
 mon or mackarel to eat cold, we believe the very best way is, 
 to put the salmon, perfectly dry and free from liquor, into a 
 deep pot that has a lid, and pour over it strong vinegar, cold, 
 and enough to cover it. Keep it closely covered; it may be 
 eaten the next day, and will keep three or four. Without 
 any intention to deceive, this has often been mistaken and 
 admired for real Newcastle pickled salmon. 
 
 Shell fish, especially lobsters, crabs, prawns, and shrimps,' 
 are apt to disagree with some persons, occasioning vio¬ 
 lent sickness, pain in the bowels, and swelling of the whole 
 body as if under the influence of poison. It is said that these 
 unpleasant effects may be corrected, by drinking hot milk. 
 This may be worth a trial; and should it not succeed, persons 
 suffering in this manner will do wisely to refrain from an in¬ 
 dulgence so expensive in its effects. 
 
 At certain times of the year, several, perhaps most kinds 
 of fish are unwholesome, and have a tendency to produce 
 cholera morbus and other violent diseases. Skate is particu- 
 
 u 
 
122 
 
 DOMESTIC COOKERY 
 
 larly so, nor is salmon free from the tendency. Muscles 
 possess in general a poisonous quality, the cause of which is 
 not exactly ascertained. The presence of this injurious 
 quality in any tish may be easily ascertained by the simple 
 test of putting into the vessel in which the fish is cooked, 
 a piece of silver. If it turn black, the fish must be consi¬ 
 dered dangerous, if not absolutely poisonous. 
 
 Here we close the first part of our work, in which it has 
 been our object to keep in view the wants and conveniences 
 of plain families, and to bring together all that is most essen¬ 
 tial thereunto in our department. We have often seen plain 
 cooks, who are generally also plain scholars, perplexed and 
 hindered, in having to search for some simple matter in the 
 midst of a number of high flying articles, to the very names 
 of which they were almost total strangers. To avoid this 
 perplexity, we have first gone through what may be considered 
 a round of plain cookery, and which we hope will be not 
 merely occasionally referred to, but read through and made 
 perfectly familiar to young cooks and housekeepers, who, we 
 are well persuaded, will find their account in thoroughly ground¬ 
 ing themselves in the general principles and familiar practice 
 of domestic economy, which we hope will be found laid down 
 in a simple and intelligible manner in the foregoing pages. 
 
 It may entitle the foregoing directions to some degree of 
 confidence, to assure our readers that they have not been pre¬ 
 sented with a compilation of untried and uncertain recipes, but 
 with the details of daily practice and the results and observa¬ 
 tions of actual experience. Nothing has been advanced which 
 does not bear the author’s own probatum est. 
 
 We shall next proceed to the more elaborate processes of 
 the culinarv and confectionary arts, and shall endeavour to 
 collect from the best sources, both published and original, such 
 information as shall render the work truly valuable; it will 
 also be our rare to aftord every facility of reference, by adopt¬ 
 ing a simple and efficient mode of arrangement. 
 
PART II. 
 
 OF COMPOUND OR MADE DISHES 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PHRASES FREQUENTLY OCCURRING IN 
 DIRECTIONS FOR COOKERY. 
 
 Drowning ... A preparation of white sugar, browned over the 
 fire, and then diluted to the consistency ol 
 soy, for the purpose of colouring soups, gra¬ 
 vies, &c. 
 
 Bechamel . A simple white gravy or sauce. 
 
 To Braize ... To stew over a slow fire. 
 
 Comsomme... A rich soup or gravy consumed over the fire to 
 the consistency of a jelly, to be diluted and 
 converted, when wanted, into soup. 
 
 L/ulhs .... A rich brown gravy, made in various ways, accord¬ 
 ing to the purpose for which it is intended. 
 
 Dntres . Dishes for a first course. 
 
 hntremets ... Dishes for a second course. 
 
 Esculents Y Animal or Vegetable food—any article tr.at may 
 
 or Edibles f be eaten. 
 
 Fncandeau. A sort of Scotch collops. 
 
 Fricassee .... Fowls, rabbits, or other things cut to pieces and 
 dressed with a strong white sauce. 
 
 Garnishes ... Articles laid round a dish by way of ornament, and 
 generally, but not always, intended to be eaten 
 therewith. 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Glaze .... A very rich sauce or gravy boiled to a thick sub¬ 
 stance, and preserved in pots, to be laid on 
 with a long-haired brush, over high season d 
 dishes. 
 
 To Glaze., To cover the outsides of hams, tongues, and all 
 stewed dishes, with glaze or braize, to give 
 them a rich appearance. 
 
 Harrico . Vaal, mutton, &c. stewed with vegetables. 
 
 Hot Bath ... A pan or other vessel filled with water, and placed 
 In a pot, which is kept boiling over the fife 
 for the purpose of scalding fruits, or prepar¬ 
 ing meats. 
 
 Maigre . Soup, or any other dish, made without meat or 
 
 gravy. 
 
 To Pass . To dress a thing partially, by setting on, or shak¬ 
 
 ing it over the fire for a short time. 
 
 Ragout . Stewing or boiling meat or other articles, to pre¬ 
 
 serve their juices. 
 
 To Sheet .... To line the inside of a dish with paste. 
 
 Stock .... A preparation from gravy meats, &c. always to b« 
 \ept at hand, for the purpose of making soup 
 or gravy. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 OF butcher’s meat. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 Beef a-la-mode. 
 
 The clod, the mouse buttock, the rump, or the thick of 
 the flank, may be dressed in this way. Take from six to ten 
 pounds, and rub it well with minced spices and salt, ana 
 dredge it with flour. Lay skewers in the bottom of a well- 
 tinned stew-pan, and on them spread some thin slices of good 
 bacon; place the meat on these, with a few more slices of 
 bacon above, and a small quantity of vinegar and gravy, or 
 good broth. Make the stew-pan very close, and let the meat 
 stew as slowly as possible over embers for two hours. Turn 
 it, and put to the gravy a high seasoning of cloves, black and 
 Jamaica pepper, with a few bay leaves and mushrooms if in 
 season, or a little catsup and a few button onions roasted. 
 Let it then stew very slowly till the meat is tender. Pick 
 out the bay leaves, and serve the meat in a tureen with the 
 graw, which, if it is slowly stewed, will have thickened to the 
 consistence of rob. Veal is very good dressed in the same 
 manner. The gristly part of the breast is best adapted for 
 this purpose, and lemon grate may be added to the seasonings, 
 but no catsup. 
 
 Another way. Choose a piece of thick flank of a fine 
 heifer or ox. Cut into long slices some fat bacon, but quite 
 free from yellow; let each bit be near an inch thick: dip 
 them into vinegar, and then into a seasoning ready prepared 
 of salt, black pepper, allspice, and a clove, all in fine powder, 
 with parsley, chives, thyme, savoury, and knotted marjoram, 
 shred as small as possible, and well mixed. With a sharp 
 knife make holes deep enough to let in tho larding; then rub 
 
126 
 
 COMPOUND COOKKliY. 
 
 the beef over with the seasoning, and bind it up tight with 
 tape. Set it in a well-tinned pot over a fire, or rather stove: 
 three or four onions must be fried brown and put to the beef, 
 with two or three carrots, one turnip, a head or two of celery, 
 and a small quantity of water; let it simmer gently ten or 
 twelve hours, or till extremely tender, turning the meat twice. 
 
 Put the gravy into a pan, remove the fat, keep the beef 
 covered, then put them together, and add a glass of port 
 wine. Take off the tape, and serve with the vegetables; or 
 you may strain them olf, and send them up cut into dice for 
 garnish. Onions roasted and then stewed with the gravy, 
 are a great improvement. A teacup-ful of vinegar should be 
 stewed with the beef. 
 
 A Fricandeau of Beef. 
 
 Take a nice bit of lean beef; lard it with bacon seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and allspice. Put it into a 
 stew-pan with a pint of broth, a glass of white wine, a bundle 
 of parsley, all sorts of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic, a shalot 
 or two, four cloves, pepper, and salt. When the meat is be¬ 
 come tender, cover it close: skim the sauce well, and strain 
 it; set it on the fire, and let it boil till it is reduced to a glaze. 
 Glaze the larded side with this, and serve the meat on sorrel- 
 sauce. 
 
 To stew a Rump of Beef. 
 
 Wash it well; and season it high with pepper, cayenne, 
 salt, allspice, three cloves, and a blade of mace, all in fine 
 powder. Bind it up tight, and lay it into a pot that will just 
 hold it. Fry three large onions sliced, and put them to it, 
 with three carrots, two turnips, a shalot, four cloves, a blade 
 of mace, and some celery. Cover the meat with good beef 
 broth, or weak gravy. Simmer it as gently as possible for 
 several hours, till quite tender. Clear off the fat: and add 
 to the gravy half a pint of port wine, a glass of vinegar, and 
 a large spoonful of catsup ; simmer half an hour, and serve in 
 a deep dish. Half a pint of table beer may be added. The 
 herbs to be used should be burnet, tarragon, parsley, thyme, 
 basil, savoury, marjoram, penny-royal, knotted marjoram, and 
 
 i 
 
BEEF. 
 
 127 
 
 some chives if you can get them; but observe to proportion 
 the quantities to the pungency of the several sorts; let there 
 be a good handful all together. 
 
 to to 
 
 Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles and morels, or 
 pickles of different colours, cut small, and laid in little heaps 
 separate; chopped parsley, chives, beet-root, &c. If, when 
 done, the gravy is too much to fill the dish, take only a part 
 to season for serving, but the less water the better; and to 
 increase the richness, add a few beef bones and shanks of 
 mutton in stewing. 
 
 A spoonful or two of made mustard is a great improvement 
 to the gravy. 
 
 Another way. Half roast it; then put it into a large pot 
 with three pints of water, one of small beer, one of port wine, 
 some salt, three or four spoonfuls of vinegar, two of catsup, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs of various kinds (such as burnet, tarra¬ 
 gon, parsley, thyme, basil, savoury, penny-royal, marjoram, 
 knotted marjoram, and a leaf or two of sage,) some onions, 
 cloves, and cayenne • cover it close, and simmer till quite 
 tender; two or three hours will do it. When done lay it 
 into a deep dish, set it over hot water, and cover it close. 
 Skim the gravy; put in a few pickled mushrooms, truffles, 
 morels, and oysters, if agreeable, but it is very good without; 
 thicken the gravy with flour and butter, and heat it with the 
 above, and pour over the beef. Forcemeat-balls of veal, 
 anchovies, bacon, suet, herbs, spice, bread and eggs, to bind, 
 are a great improvement. 
 
 ■i 
 
 To bake a Rump of Beef. 
 
 Cut out the bone quite clean, then beat the flesh well with 
 a rolling-pin, and lard it with a piece of bacon. Season your 
 bacon with pepper, salt, and cloves; and lard across the meat, 
 that it may cut handsomer. Season the meat with pepper, 
 salt, and cloves; put it into an earthen pot with all the broken 
 bones, half a pound of butter, some bay leaves, whole pepper, 
 one or two shalots, and some sweet herbs. Let the top of 
 the pan be covered quite close, then put it into the oven, and 
 it will be dene in about six hours. When enough, skim off 
 
123 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 the fat clean, put the meat into a dish, and serve it up with a 
 tjood ragout of mushrooms, truffles, forcemeat-balls and yelks of 
 eggs. Let the gravy winch comes from the beef be added, 
 nicely seasoned, to those ingredients. 
 
 To stew a Brisket of Beef. 
 
 Put the part which has the hard fat into a stew-pot with a 
 small quantity of water: let it boil up, and skim it thoroughly; 
 then add carrots, turnips, onions, celery, and a few pepper¬ 
 corns. Stew till extremely tender; then take out the flat 
 bones, and remove all the fat from the soup. Either serve 
 that and the meat in a tureen, or the soup alone, and the 
 meat on a dish, garnished with some vegetables. The follow¬ 
 ing sauce is much admired, served with the beef:—Take half 
 a pint of the soup, and mix it with a spoonful of catsup, a 
 glass of port wine, a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a little 
 flour, a bit of butter, and salt; boil all together a few minutes, 
 then pour it round the meat. Chop capers, walnuts, red 
 cabbage, pickled cucumbers, and chives or parsley, small, and 
 nut in separate heaps over it. 
 
 Beef Bouillie. 
 
 Bffl slow.y the duck end of a brisket, or any other piece 
 or pieces of good fresh beef, tying i' round with packthread, 
 or the pieces closely together, for the purpose of not only 
 securely keeping in the gravy, but occasioning the meat to 
 cut up firmly, should any of it remain to be eaten cold. It 
 is to be well covered with water, have a moderate quantity of 
 salt thrown in when it begins to boil, be well seasoned, and 
 have fresh boiling water added as the former boils away. A 
 faggot of sweet herbs may at any time be put in; but the 
 carrots, turnips, onions, celery, or any other vegetables made 
 choice of, should not be added till within the last hour of the 
 time the whole is wanted to be served up, when it is to be 
 also finally seasoned with salt and pepper, &c. The time, of 
 course, must be proportioned to the magnitude of the meat; 
 which, however, must continue slowly boiling till it becomes 
 quite tender; this, for about six pounds, will not be less than 
 
ii Err. 
 
 1 2'J 
 
 th:ee hours. When clone, it may be served up in the middle 
 ot the soup and vegetables, or the soup in a separate tureen, 
 and the meat in a dish surrounded with vegetables, and 
 strewed over with sprigs of parsley. 
 
 Cold Beef Bouillie. 
 
 Cut it on a trencher, in slices of nearly half an inch thick, 
 and about three fingers in breadth, with fat in proportion to 
 the lean, and lay on a dish as much as may be requisite for 
 the occasion : then mix well together, in a bason, chopped 
 onion or shalots, pepper, salt, mustard, egg, oil, vinegar, &c. 
 exactly as for a salad ; pour this mixture over the beef bouillie, 
 and serve it up garnished with water-cresses or scraped horse¬ 
 radish 
 
 Hunter s Beef. 
 
 To a round of beef that weighs twenty-five pounds, take 
 three ounces of saltpetre, three ounces of the coarsest sugar, 
 an ounce of cloves, a nutmeg, half an ounce of allspice, and 
 three handfuls of common salt, all in the finest powder. 
 
 The beef should hang two or three days : then rub the 
 above well into it, and turn and rub it every day for two o* 
 three weeks. The bone must be taken out at first. When 
 to be dressed, dip it into cold water, to take off the loose 
 spice; bind it up tight with tape, and put it into a pan with a 
 teacup-ful of water at the bottom; cover the top of the hk 
 with shred suet, and the pan with a brown crust and paper, 
 and bake it five or six hours. When cold, take oft* the paste 
 and tape. 
 
 The gravy is very fine; and a little of it adds greatly to 
 the flavour of any hash, soup, &c. 
 
 Both the gravy and the beef will keep some time. The 
 meat should be cut with a very sharp knife, and quite smooth, 
 to prevent waste. 
 
 Pressed Beef. 
 
 Salt a bit of brisket, thin part of the flank, or the tops of 
 tiie ribs, with salt and saltpetre five days, then boil it gently 
 
 s 
 
COilPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 f;10 
 
 till extremely tender; put it under a great weight or in a 
 cheese-press, till perfectly cold. 
 
 It eats excellently cold, and for sandwiches. 
 
 Collared Beef. 
 
 Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow beef, but 
 not too fat: lay it into a dish with salt and saltpetre, turn 
 and rub it every day for a week, and keep it cool. Then 
 take out every bone and gristle, remove the skin of the inside 
 part, and cover it thick with the following seasoning cut 
 small: a large handful of parsley, the same of sage, some 
 thyme, marjoram, and penny-royal, pepper, salt, and allspice. 
 Roll the meat up as tight as possible, and bind it, then boil 
 it gently for seven or eight hours. A cloth must be put 
 round before the tape. Put the beef under a good weight 
 while hot, without undoing it: the shape will then be oval. 
 Part of a breast of veal rolled in with the beef, looks and eats 
 very well. 
 
 A Round of Beef forced. 
 
 Rub your meat first with common salt, then a little bay- 
 salt, some salt-petre, and coarse sugar. Let it lay a full 
 week in this pickle, turning it every day. On the day it is 
 to be dressed, wash and dry it, lard it a little, and make holes, 
 which fill with bread crumbs, marrow or suet, parsley, grated 
 lemon-peel, sweet-herbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and the yelk 
 of an egg, made into stuffing. Bake it with a little water 
 and some small beer, whole pepper, and an onion. When it 
 comes from the oven, skim the fat clean off, put the meat into 
 a dish, and pour the liquor over it. When cold, it makes a 
 handsome side-board dish for a large company. 
 
 Staffordshire Beefsteaks. 
 
 Beat them a little with a rolling pin, flour and season, then 
 fry with sliced onion of a fine light brown; lay the steaks 
 into a stew-pan, and pour as much boiling water over them as 
 will serve for sauce; stew them very gently half an hour, and 
 add a spoonful of catsup, or walnut-liquor, before you serve. 
 
Italian Beefsteaks. 
 
 Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been well 
 hung, or it will do from any tender part; beat it, and season 
 with pepper, salt, and onion; lay it in an iron stew-pan that 
 has a cover to fit quite close, and set it by the side of the fire 
 without water. Take care it does not burn, but it must have 
 a strong heat; in two or three hours it will be quite tender, 
 and then serve with its own gravy. 
 
 Beef Collops. 
 
 Cut thin slices of beef from the rump, or any other tender 
 part, and divide them into pieces three inches long; beat them 
 with the blade of a knife, and flour them. Fry the collops 
 quick in butter two minutes; then lay them into a small stew- 
 pan, and cover them with a pint of gravy; add a bit of butter 
 rubbed in flour, pepper, salt, the least bit of shalot shred as 
 fine as possible, half a walnut, four small pickled cucumbers, 
 and a tea-spoonful of capers cut small. Take care that it 
 does not boil; and serve the stew in a very hot covered dish. 
 
 Beef Palates. 
 
 Simmer them in water several hours, till they will peel; 
 then cut the palates into slices, or leave them whole, as you 
 choose; and stew them in a rich gravy till as tender as possi¬ 
 ble. Before you serve, season them with cayenne, salt, and 
 catsup. If the gravy was drawn clear, add also some butter 
 and flour. 
 
 If to be served white, boil them in milk, and stew them in 
 fricassee-sauce : adding cream, butter, flour, and mushroom- 
 powder, and a little pounded mace. 
 
 Beef Cakes , 
 
 Pound some beef that is underdone with a little fat bacon, 
 or ham; season with pepper, salt, and a little shalot, or garlic; 
 mix them well, and make it into small cakes three inches long, 
 and half as wide and thick; fry them in a light brown, and 
 serve them in a good thick gravy. 
 
*32 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Beef-steaks rolled. 
 
 Take the steaks, and after beating them to make them 
 tender, put upon them any quantity of high-seasoned force¬ 
 meat, then roll them up, and secure their form by skewering. 
 Fry them in mutton drippings, till they become of a delicate 
 brown, when they should be taken from the fat in which they 
 had been fried, and put into a stew-pan, with some good 
 gravy, a spoonful of red wine, and some catsup. When suf¬ 
 ficiently stewed, serve them with the gravy and a few pickled 
 mushrooms. 
 
 To reivarm, the Inside of Sirloin of Beef 
 
 Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, into pieces as thick 
 as your finger, and two inches long; dredge it with flour, and 
 fry in butter, of a nice brown; drain the butter from the meat 
 and toss it up in a rich gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, 
 anchovy, and shalot. Do not let it boil on any account, 
 Before you serve add two spoonfuls of vinegar. Garnish 
 with crimped parsley. 
 
 Fricassee of cold Beef. 
 
 Cut the beef into very thin slices, shred a handful of 
 parsley very small, cut an onion into quarters, and put all 
 together into a stew-pan, with a piece of butter and some 
 strong broth; season with salt and pepper, and simmer very 
 gently a quarter of an hour; then mix into it the yelks of two 
 eggs, a gla«s of port wine, and a spoonful of vinegar; stir it 
 quick, rub the dish with shalot, and turn the fricassee into it. 
 
 Beef Olives. 
 
 Cut slices half an inch thick, and four inches square; lay 
 on them a forcemeat of crumbs of bread, shalot, a little suet 
 or fat, pepper, and salt. Roll them, and fasten with a small 
 skewer: put them into a stew-pan with some gravy made of 
 the beef-bones, or the gravy of the meat and a spoonful of 
 two of water, and stew them till tender. Fresh meat will do. 
 
 Sanders , 
 
 Mince beef or mutton, small, with onion, pepper, and salt, 
 
BEEF. 
 
 133 
 
 add a little gravy; put it into scollop-shells, or saucers, mak¬ 
 ing them three parts full, and fill them up with potatoes, 
 mashed with a little cream; put a bit of butter on the top, 
 and brown them in an oven or before the lire, or with a 
 salamander. 
 
 Cecils. 
 
 Mince any kind of meat, crumbs of bread, a good deal of 
 onion, some anchovies, lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, chopped 
 parsley, pepper, and a bit of butter warm, and mix these over 
 a fire for a few minutes; when cool enough, make them up 
 into balls of the size and shape of a turkey’s egg, with an egg; 
 sprinkle them with fine crumbs, and then fry them of a yel¬ 
 low brown, and serve with gravy, as before directed for beef- 
 olives. 
 
 Boiled Beef. 
 
 Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in a glass of port 
 wine and a glass of vinegar mixed, for forty-eight hours; have 
 ready a very fine stuffing, and bind it up tight. Roast it on 
 a hanging-spit; and baste it with a glass of port wine, the 
 same quantity of vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of pounded all¬ 
 spice. Larding it improves the look and flavour; serve with 
 a rich gravy in the dish; currant jelly and melted butter, in 
 tureens. 
 
 Beef a-la-vingrette. 
 
 Cut a slice of underdone boiled beef three inches thick? 
 and a little fat; stew it in half a pint of water, a glass of 
 white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a bay leaf; 
 season it with three cloves pounded, and pepper, till the liquor 
 is nearly wasted away, turning it once. When cold, serve it. 
 Strain off the gravy, and mix it with a little vinegar for 
 sauce. 
 
 Stewed Neat's Tongue. 
 
 Salt a tongue with salt-petre and common salt for a week, 
 turning it every day. Boil it tender enough to peel: when 
 done, stew it in a moderately strong gravy; season with soy, 
 
131 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 mushroom catsup, cayenne, pounded cloves, and salt if ne¬ 
 cessary. 
 
 Serve with truiHes, morels, and mushrooms. In both thi3 
 receipt and the next, the roots must be taken off the tongues 
 before salting, but some fat left. 
 
 Baked Tongue for eating cold. 
 
 Season with common salt and salt-petre, brown sugar, a 
 little bay-salt, pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in fine pow¬ 
 der, for a fortnight; then take away the pickle, put the tongue 
 into a small pan, and lay some butter on it; cover it with 
 brown crust, and bake slowly till so tender that a straw would 
 go through it. 
 
 o e> 
 
 Roast Ribs of Beef stuffed. 
 
 Make a stuffing as for fillet of veal, bone the beef, put the 
 stuffing into the middle of it, roll it up, and bind it very tight. 
 Let it roast gently about two hours and a half; or if very 
 thick, three hours will do it sufficiently. Serve it up with a 
 brown sauce, of either celery or oysters. 
 
 Hung Beef 
 
 Hang your beef till it begins to turn, then wipe it with a 
 clean cloth, and salt it with a pound of bay salt, a quarter of 
 a pound of salt-petre, and half a pound of coarse sugar; let it 
 remain six weeks in this pickle, observing to turn it every 
 day; then dry it. 
 
 Potted Beef 
 
 Take four pounds of beef, free from skin or sinews, and 
 rub it over with a composition of sugar, salt, and salt-petre, 
 about half an ounce of'each to the quantity of beef. In that 
 state, let it lie for twenty-four or forty-eight hours, turning 
 it over three or four times. Then put it into an oven with a 
 little chopped suet, and about half a pint of water. When 
 sufficiently stevved, drain the fat and gravy from the meat, 
 and pound it in a marble mortar till it become perfectly 
 smooth, adding to it some cayenne, white pepper, salt, a little 
 pounded mace, a little of the clear gravy, and about half a 
 
BF.EF. 
 
 135 
 
 pound of butter melted to an oil, and added gradually during 
 the beating. When reduced to an uniform and smooth con¬ 
 sistence, put it into pots, and cover with melted butter._ 
 
 When the stomach requires solid animal food, and is de¬ 
 prived of the assistance of mastication, this kind of potted 
 meat nay be recommended, as being restorative, and easy of 
 digestion. 
 
 Another way. Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with 
 salt-petre, and let it lie one night; then salt with common 
 salt, and cover it with water four days in a small pan. Dry 
 it with a cloth, and season with black pepper; lay it into as 
 small a pan as will hold it, cover it with coarse paste, and 
 bake it five hours in a very cool oven. Put no liquor in. 
 
 When cold, pick out the strings and fat; beat the meat 
 very fine with a quarter of a pound of fine butter just warm, 
 but not oiled, and as much of the gravy as will make it into a 
 paste: put it into very small pots, and cover them with melted 
 butter. 
 
 Another way. Take beef that has beer, dressed, either 
 boiled or roasted; beat it in a mortar with some pepper, salt, 
 a few cloves, grated nutmeg, and a little fine butter just 
 
 warm. 
 
 This eats as well as the former, but the colour is not 
 so fine. It is a good way for using the remains of a large 
 joint. 
 
 Red Beef for slicing Cold. 
 
 Take a piece of thin flank of beef, and cut olf the skin: 
 then rub it well with a mixture made with two pounds of 
 common salt, two ounces of bay salt, two ounces of salt-petre, 
 and half a pound of moist sugar, pounded in a marble mortar. 
 Put it into an earthen pan, and turn and rub it every day for 
 seven or eight days; then take it out of the brine, wipe it, 
 strew over it pounded mace, cloves, pepper, a little all-spice, 
 plenty of chopped parsley, and a few shalots. Then roll 
 it up, bind it round with a tape, boil it till tender, press it, 
 and when it is cold cut it into slices, and garnish it with 
 pickled barberries, fresh parsley, or any other garnish, as 
 approved 
 
COMPOUND COOKEHY. 
 
 128 
 
 Ribs of Beef in a Porcupine. 
 
 Cone the flat ribs, and beat it half an hour with a paste- 
 pin ; then rub it over with the yelks of eggs : strew over it 
 oread crumbs, parsley, leeks, sweet marjoram, lemon-peel 
 shred fine, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; roll it up very close, 
 and bind it hard; lard it across with bacon, then a row of cold 
 boiled tongue, a third row of pickled cucumbers, a fourth row 
 of lemon-peel; do it over in rows as above, till it is larded all 
 round; it will look like red, green, white, and yellow dices; 
 then split, and put it in a deep pot with a pint of water; lay 
 over a caul of veal, to keep it from scorching; tie it down 
 with strong paper, and send it to the oven: when it comes 
 out skim off the fat, and strain your gravy into a saucepan; 
 add to it two spoonfuls of red wine, the same of browning, 
 one of -mushroom catsup, and half a lemon; thicken it with 
 a lump of butter rolled in flour; dish up the meat, and pour 
 the gravy on the dish; lay round forcemeat balls; garnish 
 with horse-radish, and serve it up. 
 
 Ox-cheek stewed. 
 
 Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before it is to be 
 eaten; put it into a stew-pot that will cover close, with three 
 quarts of water; simmer it after it has first boiled up and 
 been well skimmed. In two hours put plenty of carrots, 
 leeks, two or three turnips, a bunch of sweet herbs, some 
 whole pepper, and four ounces of allspice. Skim it often ; 
 when the meat is tender, take it out; let the soup get cold, 
 take off the cake of fat, and serve the soup separate or with 
 the meat. 
 
 It should be of a fine brown; which might be done by 
 burnt sugar, or by frying some onions quite brown with flour, 
 and simmering them with it. This last way improves the 
 flavour of all soups and gravies of the brown kind. 
 
 If vegetables are not approved of in the soup, they may 
 be taken out, and a small roll be toasted, or bread fried 
 and added. Celery is a great addition, and should always 
 be served. Where it is not to be got, the seed of it 
 gives quite as good a flavour, boiled in, and strained off. 
 
 V 
 
137 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 To disguise a Leg of Veal. 
 
 Lard the top-side of a leg of veal in rows with bacon, and 
 6tuffit well with forcemeat made of oysters; then put it into 
 a large saucepan, with as much water as will cover it; put on 
 a close lid, to keep the steam in; stew it gently till quite ten¬ 
 der ; then take it up, and boil down the gravy in the pan to a 
 quart; skim oft' the fat, and add half a lemon, a spoonful of 
 mushroom catsup, a little lemon pickle, the crumbs of half a 
 penny-loaf grated exceedingly fine; boil it in your gravy till 
 it looks thick; then add half a pint of oysters; if not thick 
 enough, roll a lump of butter in flour and put it in, with half 
 a pint of good cream, and the yelks of three eggs; shake your 
 sauce over the fire, but do not let it boil after the eggs are in, 
 lest it curdle; put your veal in a deep dish, and pour the 
 sauce over it; garnish with crisped parsley and fried oysters. 
 It is an excellent dish for the top of a large table. 
 
 To ragout a Knuckle of Veal. 
 
 Cut a knuckle of veal into slices about half an inch thick; 
 pepper, salt, and flour them; fry them a light brown; put the 
 trimmings into a stew-pan, with the bone broke in several 
 places ; an onion sliced, a head of celery, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and two blades of bruised mace: pour in warm water 
 enough to cover them about an inch : cover the pot close, and 
 let it stew very gently for a couple of flours : strain it, and 
 then thicken it with flour and butter: put in a spoonful of 
 catsup, a glass of wine, and juice of half a lemon; give it a 
 boil up, and strain into a clean stew-pan: put in the meat, 
 make it hot, and serve up. 
 
 If celery is not to be had, use a carrot instead, or flavour 
 it with celery seed. 
 
 To fry a Knuckle of Veal. 
 
 Fry the knuckle with sliced onion and butter to a good 
 brown; and have ready peas, lettuce, onion, and a cucumber 
 or two, stewed in a small quantity ol water, an hour; then 
 
 T 
 
138 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 add these to the veal; and stew it till the meat is tender 
 enough to eat, but not overdone. Throw in pepper, salt, and 
 a bit of shred mint, and serve all together. 
 
 Veal Cutlets. 
 
 Cut slices half an inch thick from the fillet, neck, or loin. 
 If not equally cut, level them with the cleaver. Fry them 
 either in butter or very good dripping. If the cutlets be 
 thick, keep the pan a good distance above the fire; when 
 browned on both sides of a fine golden-tingcd brown, pour off 
 any superfluous fat, raise the pan still higher from the fire, and 
 cover it. Have ready some gravy made thus: A quarter 
 of a pound of skins, bones, or trimmings of the cutlets, a blade ol 
 mace, the head of a young onion, a sprig of parsley, a good 
 bit of lemon peel, six white pepper corns, a bay leaf, if the 
 flavour is liked, and a pint of water, which may boil down 
 one-half; add fresh butter, the size of a large walnut, rolled 
 in flour. When this gravy is well thickened, strain, boil 
 again, and pour hot over the cutlets, which must be served 
 very hot. This sauce may be made brown, by the addition 
 of a little walnut or mushroom catsup. Veal cutlets may 
 also be more highly dressed by dipping the slices in beat egg, 
 and then strewing over them a mixture of bread crumbs, 
 parsley and lemon peel chopped very fine, and a scrape of nut¬ 
 meg. They must be fried in plenty of butter, and more of 
 the mixture may be strewed over them in the pan. When 
 the cutlets are done, place them before the fire in a hot dish 
 covered, and to the gravy in the pan add veal broth or gravy, 
 and a few little bits of butter separately rolled in flour; let it 
 boil and thicken; add a little lemon juice and white pepper, 
 skim the sauce, and pour it over the cutlets. Where the 
 flavour of lemon thyme or vervain is liked, a sprig of it makes 
 a grateful addition to sauce for cutlets. 
 
 Scotch Collops. 
 
 Cut small slices of equal thickness out of the fillet, and 
 flour and brown them over a brisk fire in fresh butter. When 
 enough are browned for the dish put a little weak veal broth 
 or boiling water to them in a small stew-pan, adding, when 
 
VEAL. 
 
 139 
 
 they are nearly tender, the juice of a lemon, a spoonful of 
 catsup, or the same of lemon pickle, with mace, pepper ancl 
 salt to taste. Thicken and strain the sauce, and pour it over 
 the collops. Serve curled slices of bacon, or mushrooms if in 
 season. 
 
 Veal Collops. 
 
 Cut long thin collops; beat them well; and lay on them a 
 bit of thin bacon of the same size, and spread forcemeat on 
 that, seasoned high, and also a little garlic and cayenne. Roll 
 them up tight about the size of two fingers, but not more 
 than two or three inches long; put a very small skewer to 
 fasten each firmly; rub egg over; fry them of a fine brown, 
 and pour a rich brown gravy over. 
 
 To dress Collops quick. 
 
 Cut them as thin as paper with a very sharp knife, and in 
 small bits. Throw the skin, and any odd bits of the veal, 
 into a little water, with a dust of pepper and salt; set them 
 on the fire while you beat the collops; and dip them into a 
 seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper, salt, and a scrape of nutmeg, 
 but first wet them in egg. Then put a bit of butter into a 
 frying-pan, and give the collops a very quick fry; for as they 
 are so thin, two minutes will do them on both sides; put them 
 into a hot dish before the fire; then strain and thicken the 
 gravy, give it a boil in the frying-pan, and pour it over the 
 collops. A little catsup is an improvement. 
 
 Or, fry them in butter, only seasoned with salt and pep¬ 
 per ; then simmer them in gravy, either white or brown, with 
 bits of bacon served with them. 
 
 If white, add lemon peel and mace, and some cream. 
 
 To dress Scotch Collops white. 
 
 Cut them off the thick part of a leg of veal, the size and 
 thickness of a crown piece: put a lump of butter into a toss¬ 
 ing-pan, and set it over a slow fire, or it will discolour your 
 collops: before the pan is hot, lay the collops in, and keep 
 turning them over till you see the butter is turned to a thick 
 white gravy; put your collops and gravy in a pot, and set 
 
140 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 them upon the hearth to keep warm; put cold butter again 
 into your pan every time you fill it, and fry them as above, 
 and so continue till you have finished; when you have fried 
 them, pour your gravy from them into your pan, with a tea¬ 
 spoonful of lemon pickle, mushroom catsup, caper liquor, 
 beaten mace, cayenne pepper, and salt; thicken with flour and 
 butter; when it has boiled five minutes, put in the yelks of 
 two eggs w r ell beat and mixed, with a tea-spoonful of rich 
 cream; keep shaking your pan over the fire till your gravy 
 looks of a fine thickness, then put in your collops and shake 
 them; when they are quite hot, put them on your dish, with 
 forcemeat balls; strew over them pickled mushrooms. Gar¬ 
 nish with barberries and kidney-beans. 
 
 To dress Scotch Collops brown. 
 
 Cut your collops the same way as the white ones, but 
 brown your butter before you lay in your collops; fry them 
 over a quick fire; shake and turn them, and keep on them a 
 fine froth; when they are a light brown, put them into a pot, 
 and fry them as the white ones; when you have fried them 
 all brown, pour all the gravy from them into a clean tossing- 
 pan, with half a pint of the gravy made of the bones and bits 
 you cut the collops off, two tea-spoonfuls ol* lemon pickle, a 
 large one of catsup, the same of browning, half an ounce of 
 morels, half a lemon, a little anchovy, cayenne and salt to your 
 taste: thicken it with flour and butter; let it boil five or six 
 minutes; then put in your collops, and shake them over the 
 fire; if they boil, it will make them hard: when they have 
 simmered a little, take them out with an egg-spoon, and lay 
 them on your dish; strain your gravy, and pour it hot on 
 them; lay over them forcemeat balls, and little slices of bacon 
 curled round a skewer and boiled; throw a few mushrooms 
 over. Garnish with lemon and barberries, and serve them up. 
 
 To dress Scotch Collops the French way. 
 
 Take a leg of veal, and cut your collops pretty thick, five 
 or six inches long, and three inches broad; rub them over 
 with the yelk of an egg; put pepper and salt; and grate a 
 little nutmeg on them, and a little shred parsley; lay them on 
 
VEAL. 
 
 m 
 
 an earthen dish, and set them before the fire; baste them 
 with butter, and let them be a fine brown; then turn them on 
 the other side, and rub them as above; baste and brown it 
 the same way; when they are thoroughly enough, make a 
 good brown gravy with truffles and morels; dish up your col- 
 lops, lay truffles and morels, and the yelks of hard boiled eggs 
 over them. Garnish with crisp parsley and lemon. 
 
 To stew a Fillet of Veal. 
 
 Take the fillet of a cow-calf, stuff it well under the udder, 
 and at the bone-end quite through to the shank. Put it into 
 the oven, with a pint of water under it, till it is of a fine 
 brown; then put it into a stew-pan, with three pints of gravy. 
 Stew it till it is tender, and then put a few morels, truffles, a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a large one of browning, one of 
 catsup, and a little cayenne pepper. Thicken it with a lump 
 of butter rolled in flour. Take out your veal, and put it into 
 a dish; then strain the gravy, pour it over, and lay round 
 forcemeat balls. Garnish with sliced lemon and pickles. 
 
 Another way. Take off the knuckle either to stew or for 
 soup, and also the square end, which will cut up into cutlets 
 or olives, or make a pie. Stuff the middle part of the fillet 
 with a forcemeB, and rolling it up tightly skewer it neatly, 
 and simmer it very slowly in a close nice stew-pan that will just 
 contain it. Lay skewers below to prevent the meat from 
 sticking. When quite tender take it up, and thicken and 
 strain the sauce. Serve with mushrooms parboiled, and then 
 stewed in the sauce, and season with white pepper and mace; 
 or the sauce may be enriched with a few pickled oysters and 
 forcemeat balls, seasoning with a glass of white wine and the 
 juice of a lemon, and garnishing with lemon sliced.- Obser¬ 
 
 vations .—The fillet may be half baked and then stewed. 
 
 Fillet of Veal with Collops. 
 
 Take a small fillet of veal, and cut what collops you want; 
 then take the udder, and fill it with forcemeat; roll it round, 
 tie it with packthread across, and roast it. Lay your collops 
 in the dish, and lay your udder in the middle. Garnish with 
 lemon. 
 
142 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Breast of Veal roasted. 
 
 Before roasted, it large, the two ends may be taken otf 
 and fried to stew, or the whole may be roasted. Butter 
 should be poured over it. 
 
 If any be left, cut the pieces into handsome sizes; put 
 them into a stew-pan, and pour some broth over it; or if you 
 have no broth, a little water will do: add a bunch of herbs, a 
 blade or two of mace, some pepper, and an anchovy; stew till 
 the meat is tender; thicken with butter and flour; and add a 
 little catsup; or the whole breast may be stewed, after cut¬ 
 ting off* the two ends. 
 
 Serve the sweetbread whole upon it, which may either be 
 stewed or parboiled, and then covered with crumbs, herbs, 
 pepper and salt, and browned in a Dutch oven. 
 
 If you have a few mushrooms, truffles, and morels, stew 
 them with it, and serve. 
 
 A boiled breast of veal, smothered with onion-sauce, is an 
 excellent dish, if not old nor too flit. 
 
 To stew a Breast of Veal. 
 
 Put a breast of veal into the stew-pan, with a little broth, 
 a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs^a few mush¬ 
 rooms, two or three onions, with some pepper and salt. Stew 
 it over a gentle fire till it is tender; and when done, strain 
 and scum the sauce. Garnish with forcemeat balls. 
 
 Another way. Choose thick, fat, white veal. Chop off 
 the neck and the edge-bone, and stew them for gravy. Stuff 
 the thin part of the breast with a relishing forcemeat, made of 
 a sweetbread parboiled, bread crumbs, lemon grate, nutmeg, 
 pepper, salt, shred suet, and yelk of egg to bind the force¬ 
 meat. Skewer the stuffing neatly in, or sew it, and stew the 
 meat for an hour in the gravy made of the neck. Thicken a 
 pint and a half of the sauce, and put to it a hundred oysters 
 cut, a few mushrooms chopped, lemon juice, white pepper and 
 mace. Pour this over the stew; and garnish with slices of 
 lemon and forcemeat balls. 
 
 To ragout a Breast of Veal. 
 
 Make a little strong gravy as above, of the scrag and bones 
 
VEAL. 
 
 i n 
 
 ot the breast, and cut the meat into neat pieces, rather larger 
 than for currie. Brown these nicely in fresh butter; drain 
 them from the fat, and put them to stew in the broth with a 
 faggot of sweet herbs, a piece of lemon peel, cloves, mace, 
 white pepper, allspice, and three young onions, and salt to 
 taste This, like all stews, cannot be too slowly simmered 
 over the embers, keeping the lid of the stew-pan very close. 
 W hen the veal is quite tender set the stew-pan to cool, and 
 skim off all the fat that floats on the sauce, which must then 
 be strained and thickened to the degree of a thin batter, and 
 enriched just before serving with a glassful of white wine and 
 the juice of a lemon. Dish the veal and pour the sauce over 
 it, holding back the sediment. Forcemeat balls may be used 
 as a garnishing to this dish, and will be the more suitable if 
 made with a large proportion of grated tongue, sausage 
 meat, &c. 
 
 Another way. Half-roast a breast of veal; then bone it, 
 and put it in a tossing-pan, with a quart of veal gravy, one 
 ounce of morels, the same of truffles; stew it till tender, and 
 just before you thicken the gravy put in a few oysters, pickled 
 mushrooms, pickled cucumbers cut in small square pieces, and 
 the yelks of four eggs boiled hard; cut your sweetbread in 
 slices, and fry if a light brown; dish up your veal, and pour 
 the gravy hot over it; lay your sweetbread round, truffles, 
 morels, and eggs upon it; garnish with pickled barberries. 
 This is proper for either top or side for dinner, or bottom for 
 supper. 
 
 Another way. Take off the under bone, and cut the 
 breast in half, lengthways; divide it into handsome pieces, 
 not too large to help at once: put about two ounces of butter 
 into a frying-pan, and fry the veal till it is a light brown, then 
 put it into a stew-pan with veal broth, or as much boiling 
 water as will cover it, a bundle of sweet marjoram, common or 
 lemon thyme, and parsley, with four cloves, or a couple of 
 blades of pounded mace, three young onions, or one old one, 
 a roll of lemon-peel, a dozen corns of allspice bruised, and a 
 tea-spoonful of salt; cover it close, and let it all simmer 
 very gently till the veal is tender, that is, for about an hour 
 and a half; if it is very thick, two hours; then strain oft’ as 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 m 
 
 muuh (about a quart) of the gravy as you think you will want 
 into a basin; set the stew-pan, with the meat, Sec. in it, by 
 the fire to keep hot. To thicken the gravy you have taken 
 out, put an ounce and a half of butter into a clean stew-pan, 
 when it is melted, stir in as much flour as it will take, add the 
 gravy by degrees, season it with salt, let it boil ten minutes, 
 skim it well, and season it with two table-spoonfuls of white 
 wine, one of mushroom catsup, and the same of lemon juice , 
 give it a boil up, and it is ready: now put the veal into a 
 ragout dish, and strain the gravy through a fine sieve to it. 
 
 To roll a Breast of Veal. 
 
 Bone it, take off the thick skin and gristle, and beat the 
 meat with a rolling pin. Season it with herbs chopped very 
 fine, mixed with salt, pepper, and mace. Lay some thick 
 slices of fine ham : or roll it into two or three calves’ tonmies 
 
 O 
 
 of a fine red, boiled first an hour or two, and skinned. Bind 
 it up tight in a cloth, and tape it. Set it over the fire to sim¬ 
 mer in a small quantity of water, till it is quite tender : this 
 will take some hours. Lay it on the dresser, with a board 
 and weight on it, till quite cold. 
 
 Pigs’ or calves’ feet boiled, and taken from the bones, may 
 be put in, or round it. The different colours laid in layers 
 look well when cut; and you may put in yelks of eggs boil¬ 
 ed, beet-root, grated ham, and chopped parsley, in different 
 parts. 
 
 Porcupine of a Breast of Veal. 
 
 Take a fine large breast of veal, bone it, and rub it over 
 with the yelks of two eggs. Spread it on a table, and lay 
 over it a little bacon cut as thin as possible, a handful of 
 parsley shred fine, the yelks of five hard boiled eggs chopped 
 small, a little lemon peel cut fine, the crumbs of a penny loaf 
 steeped in cream, and season to your taste with salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg. Roll the breast of veal close, and skewer it 
 up. Then cut some fat bacon, the lean of ham that has 
 been a little boiled, and pickled cucumbers, about two inches 
 long. Lard the veal with this in rows, first ham, then bacon, 
 and then cucumbers, till you have larded every part of it. 
 
veal. 
 
 hs 
 
 Put it into a deep earthen pot, with a pint of water, cover it 
 close, and set it in a slow oven for two hours. When it comes 
 from the oven, skim off the fat, and strain the gravy through 
 a sieve into a stew-pan. Put into it a glass of white wine, a 
 little lemon-pickle and caper liquor, and a spoonful of mush¬ 
 room catsup. Thicken it with a little butter rolled in flour, 
 lay your porcupine on the dish, and pour your sauce over it. 
 Have ready a roll of forcemeat made thus: take the crumbs 
 of a penny loaf, half a pound of beef suet shred fine, the yelks 
 of four eggs, and a few chopped oysters. Mix these well 
 together, and season it to your taste with cayenne pepper, salt, 
 and nutmeg. Spread it on a veal caul, and having rolled it 
 up close like a collared eel, bind it in a cloth, and boil it an 
 hour. This done, cut it into four slices, lay one at each end, 
 and the others on the sides. Have ready your sweetbread 
 cut in slices and fried, and lay them round it with a few mush¬ 
 rooms. This makes a grand bottom dish at that time of the 
 year when game is not to be had. 
 
 Pillau of Veal. 
 
 Having half roasted a neck or breast of veal, cut it into six 
 or seven pieces, and season it with white pepper, salt, and nut¬ 
 meg. Take a pound of rice, put to it a quart of stock, some 
 mace, and a little salt. Do it over a stove, or very slow fire, till 
 it is thick; but butter the bottom of the pan or dish you do it 
 in. Beat up the yelks of six eggs, and stir them into it. 
 Then take up a little round deep dish, butter it, and lay some 
 of the rice at the bottom. Then lay the veal on a round 
 heap, and cover it all over with rice. Wash it over with the 
 yelks of eggs, and bake it an hour and a half. Then open 
 the top, and pour in a pint of rich good gravy. 
 
 Savoury Dish of Veal. 
 
 Having cut large collops out of a leg of veal, spread these 
 abroad on a dresser, hack them with the back cf a knife, ami 
 dip them into the yelks of eggs. Season with salt, mace, 
 nutmeg, and pepper, beaten fine. Make forcemeat with some 
 of your veal, beef suet, oysters chopped, sweet herbs shred 
 fine, and kitchen pepper: strew all these over your collops, 
 
 u 
 
146 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY, 
 
 roll and tie them up, put them on skewers, tie them to a spit, 
 and roast them. To the rest of your forcemeat add a raw 
 egg or two, and roll them in balls and fry them. Put them 
 into your dish with your meat when roasted, and make the 
 sauce with strong stock, an anchovy, an eschalot, a little white 
 wine, and some spice. Let it stew, and thicken it with a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. Pour the sauce into the dish, 
 lay the meat in, and serve. 
 
 A Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 Trim the fleshy side of a large knuckle, or take a long 
 thick piece from the fillet; skin it, beat it flat, season, and 
 lard it with forcemeat. Lay some slices of good bacon in a 
 small stew-pan, and place the veal on them with more slices 
 above it. Put in a pint or more of broth, the knuckle bone 
 broken, or two shanks of mutton, a faggot of herbs, a turnip, 
 a carrot, and four onions sliced, mace, four bay leaves, and 
 some white pepper. Let this stew for more than two hours 
 over a very slow fire, and keep the stew-pan closely covered. 
 The gravy will be very strong. Take up the fricandeau and 
 keep it hot; skim the fat from the gravy; pour it from the 
 sediment, and boil it quickly up till it thicken—or, as it is 
 technically called, become a glaze, which pour over the meat. 
 
 Serve with sorrel or tomata sauce.- Observations .—The 
 
 lean part of a large neck may be dressed as a fricandeau, 
 drawing a glaze from the bones. Truffles and morels, arti¬ 
 choke bottoms, and mushrooms are all served with this dish. 
 
 To Braise a Neck of Veal. 
 
 Cut the scrag in bits, and lard the best end with chopped 
 bacon, minced parsley, pepper, salt, and mace. Lay the larded 
 meat in a shallow stew-pan, with hot water to cover it, and put 
 around it the cut scrag, some slices of bacon, four onions, a 
 turnip, a head of celery, two carrots, and three bay leaves. 
 Stew till tender, strain off the gravy, and melting some butter 
 in another stew-pan, take the neck gently up, and lay it there 
 to brown. When browned put as much of the strained gravy 
 to it as will do for sauce, with a glass of white wine, the juice 
 of n Seville orange, white pepper, and mace. Dish with the 
 
147 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 browned side uppermost, and pour the sauce over it_ Ob¬ 
 
 servations .—This is an elegant but an expensive dish, with 
 little to recommend it over plain savoury stews of veal, save the 
 name and the larding—a resource of cookery, by the way, 
 which does not seem peculiarly suited to English palates, and 
 which is every day less employed even in the French kitchen. 
 Any piece of meat, poultry, or game, may be braised as 
 above; or, as another variety, stuffed with forcemeat instead 
 of being larded. Braising is, in fact, slow stew-baking in fat 
 rich compound juices, with high seasonings. 
 
 To dress Veal a-la-daube. 
 
 Trim off the edge-bone of a good loin of veal, and cut off 
 the chump. Raise the skin, season the meat, and fill the 
 hollow with a relishing forcemeat; bind up the loin with fillets 
 of linen, and cover it with slices of bacon; place the loin in a 
 stew-pan, with the bones and trimmings, and veal broth, if 
 you have it, or jelly of cow-heels. Put in a faggot of herbs, 
 mace, white pepper, and two anchovies. Cover the lid of 
 the pan with a cloth, and force it down very close, placing a 
 weight over it. Simmer slowly for two hours, shaking the 
 stew-pan occasionally. By this time the gravy will be re¬ 
 duced to a strong glaze. Take out the bacon and herbs, and 
 glaze the veal. Serve with sorrel or tomata sauce ; or with 
 mushrooms, which are a very suitable accompaniment to made 
 dishes of veal or poultry. 
 
 Another way. Cut off the chump end of the loin ; take 
 out the edge-bone; stuff the hollow with good forcemeat, tie 
 it up tight, and lay it in a stew-pan, with the bone you took 
 out, a little faggot of herbs, an anchovy, two blades of mace, a 
 few white peppers, and a pint of good veal broth. Cover the 
 veal with slices of fat bacon, and lay a sheet of white paper 
 over it. Cover the pan close, simmer it two hours, then take 
 out the bacon, and glaze the veal.—Serve it on mushrooms : 
 or with sorrel-sauce, or what else you please. 
 
 Loin of Veal en Epigram. 
 
 Roast a loin of veal properly for eating, then take it up, 
 and carefully cut off the skin from the back part without 
 
H8 
 
 COMrOUND COOKERY 
 
 breaking it. Cut out the lean part, but leave the ends whole, 
 to contain the following mincemeat: mince all the veal very 
 line with the kidney part, put it into a little gravy, enough to 
 moisten it with the gravy that comes from the loin. Put in a 
 little pepper and salt, some lemon-peel shred fine, the yelks of 
 three eggs, and a spoonful of catsup. Thicken it with a lit 
 tie butter rolled in flour. Give it a shake or two over the 
 fire, put it into the loin, and pull the skin gently over it. If 
 the skin should not quite cover it, give the part wanting a 
 brown with a hot iron, or put it into an oven for about a 
 quarter of an hour. Send it up hot, and garnish with lemon 
 and barberries. 
 
 Veal-rolls of either cold or fresh Meat. 
 
 Cut thin slices; and spread on them a fine seasoning of a 
 very few crumbs, a little chopped bacon or scraped ham, and a 
 little suet, parsley, and shalot, (or, instead of the parsley and 
 shalot, some fresh mushrooms stewed and minced,) pepper, 
 and a small piece of pounded mace. 
 
 This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sausage, or 
 be rolled with the meat. In either case tie it up very tight, 
 and stew very slowly in a gravy, and a glass of sherry. 
 
 Serve it when tender, after skimming it nicely. 
 
 Ragout of cold Veal. 
 
 Either a neck, loin, or fillet of veal, will furnish this ex¬ 
 cellent ragout, with a very little expense or trouble. 
 
 Cut the veal into handsome cutlets; put a piece of butter, 
 or clean dripping, into a frying-pan; as soon as it is hot, flour, 
 and fry the veal of a light brown : take it out, and if you 
 have no gravy ready, put a pint of boiling water into the fry¬ 
 ing-pan, give it a boil for a minute, and strain it into a basin, 
 while you make some thickening in the following manner;—■ 
 Put about an ounce of butter into a stew-pan; as soon as it 
 melts, mix with it as much flour as will dry it up; stir it over 
 the fire for a few minutes, and gradually add to it the gravy 
 you made in the frying-pan: let them simmer together for ten 
 minutes, (till thoroughly incorporated;) season it with pepper, 
 salt, and a little mace, and a wine glass of mushroom catsup, 
 
VEAL. 
 
 I4i> 
 
 or wine; strain it through a tammis to the meat; and stew 
 very gently till the meat is thoroughly wanned. If you have 
 any ready boiled bacon, cut it in slices, and put it in to warm 
 with the meat. 
 
 Veal Florendine. 
 
 Mince a fine kidney or two of veal, with the surrounding 
 fat; chop parsley and other fresh herbs, a large apple or two, 
 some candied orange-peel, and two or three hard yelks of 
 eggs, quite small; then add a handful of nicely-picked cur¬ 
 rants; two or three grated biscuits, or some crumbs of bread; 
 a little beaten mace, cloves, nutmeg, and sugar; with a glass 
 of mountain wine, and as much orange-flower water. Mix 
 the whole well together, lay a sheet of puff-paste at the bot¬ 
 tom and round a dish, put in the mixed meat, and lay over it 
 a cut-paste lid garnished round the edge. Bake it in a slack 
 oven; and serve it up quite hot, with sugar scraped over the 
 top. 
 
 Veal Harrico. 
 
 Take the best end of a small neck; cut the bones short, 
 but leave it whole; then put it into a stew-pan just covered 
 with brown gravy: and when it is nearly done, have ready a 
 pint of boiled peas, six cucumbers pared and sliced, and two 
 cabbage-lettuces cut into quarters, all stewed in a little good 
 broth : put them to the veal, and let them simmer ten minutes. 
 When the veal is in the dish, pour the sauce and vegetables 
 over it, and lay the lettuce with forcemeat balls round it. 
 
 Maintenon Cutlets. 
 
 Cut and flatten the cutlets, season them with mixed spices, 
 dip them in beat egg, and then in bread crumbs and pulverized 
 sweet herbs, with a little grated nutmeg. Broil them over a 
 quick clear fire, turning them quickly, and moistening them 
 with melted butter. Twist each cutlet neatly up in thin 
 writing paper made hot, and serve them with mushroom sauce, 
 or catsup stirred into plain melted butter. 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 
 To pot Veal. 
 
 Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal, or you may do it 
 as follows: 
 
 Season a large slice of the fillet, before it is dressed, with 
 some mace, pepper-corns, and two or three cloves; lay it close 
 into a potting-pan that will but just hold it, fill it up with 
 water, and bake it three hours; then pound it quite small in a 
 mortar, and add salt to taste; put a little gravy that was baked 
 to it in pounding, if to be eaten soon; otherwise, only a little 
 butter just melted. When done, cover it over with butter. 
 
 To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham. 
 
 Pound some cold veal or white of chicken, seasoned as 
 directed in the last article, and put layers of it with layers of 
 ham, pounded, or rather shred; press each down, and cover 
 with butter. 
 
 n 
 
 To marble Veal. 
 
 Boil, skin, and cut a dried tongue as thin as possible, and 
 beat it well with near a pound of butter, and a little beaten 
 mace, till it is like a paste. Have ready some veal stewed, 
 and beat in the same manner. Then put some veal into pot- 
 ting-pots, and thin some tongue in lumps over the veal. Do 
 not lay on your tongue in any form, but let it be in lumps, 
 and it will then cut like marble. Fill your pot up close with 
 veal, press it very hard down, and pour clarified butter over it. 
 Remember to keep it in a dry place, and when you send it to 
 table, cut it into slices. Garnish it with parsley. 
 
 Veal Olives. 
 
 Cut half a dozen slices off a fillet of veal, half an inch 
 thick, and as long and square as you can; flat them with a 
 chopper, and rub them over with an egg that has been beat on 
 a plate; cut some fat bacon as thin as possible, the same size 
 as the veal, lay it on the veal, and rub it with a little of the 
 egg; make a little veal forcemeat, and spread it very thin 
 over the bacon ; roll up the olives tight, rub them with the 
 egg, and then roll them in fine bread crumbs; put them on a 
 
VEAL. 
 
 1 J I 
 
 Iarlc spit, and roast them at a brisk fire; they will take three 
 quarters of an hour. Serve with brown gravy, in which boil 
 some mushrooms, pickled or fresh. Garnish with ball* 
 
 4 AA| * J 
 
 fried. 
 
 To dress Sweetbreads. 
 
 Parboil them, but be sure not to boil them much. Stew 
 them in white gravy; thicken and season it with salt, mace, 
 white pepper, and, when just ready, a little cream ; or egg the 
 parboiled sweetbreads, dip them in crumbs, chopped herbs, 
 and seasonings, and finish them in a Dutch oven, and serve 
 with melted butter and catsup. 
 
 To ragout Sweetbreads. 
 
 Cut them in mouthfuls, wash and dry them in a cloth, 
 brown thorn in fresh butter, and pouring as much brown rich 
 gravy as will just cover them into the stew-pan, let them sim¬ 
 mer gently, adding a seasoning of pepper, allspice, salt, and 
 mushroom catsup. Thicken the sauce, and dishing the sweet¬ 
 breads very hot, pour the sauce over them through a sieve. 
 
 Veal Kidney 
 
 May be minced and fried as sausage, or in oval balls, mix¬ 
 ing the fat and lean together, with a little bacon, onion, pepper, 
 salt, &c. and dressed thus forms a good accompaniment to 
 plain stews of veal. 
 
 To jug Veal . 
 
 Cut, flatten, and season slices of veal, and put them into 
 an earthen or stone jar, with a sprig of sweet herbs, a roll of 
 lemon peel, and some bits of fresh butter. Cover the jar 
 very closely, and set it in a pot of boiling water, or in a slow 
 oven for from two to three hours. Take off* the covering, and 
 stir a little thickening and the juice of a lemon into the sauce, 
 and allowing a few minutes for this to mix, dish the veal in a 
 ragout dish, picking out the herbs and lemon peel. Garnish 
 with slices of lemon. 
 
132 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Teal Coke. 
 
 This is rather a pretrv fantastical oish to ornament a table, 
 than one about which either the epicure or eco nomis t cares 
 much. Take the hard yelks of eight or more eggs, and cot 
 them in two. Pat some ot tuen in me bottom or a sma_i 
 nice tin pan, or earthenware vessel. Strew chopped parsley 
 over them, with seasonings: then than shoes cl vea, and ran, 
 or veal and ham separately beaten to a r-aste in a mortar. 
 Place thus alternate ’avers of egn. parsley, ana meat, till yon 
 have enough. Stick bits of butter over the top, and aid a 
 little water ox £tsvy ; cover the sau ee-pan very close, and set 
 it in an oven. When done, which will he in about three quar¬ 
 ters of an hour, take or the covering, ana press the meat down. 
 When cold and £m turn it out. It may be baked he. m 
 oval ox Anted earthenware share, turned out. and gansisrei 
 with curled parsley, stars of orange skin, See. 
 
 To dres s a CotC* Pt&cti. 
 
 Clean and stud the heart with a reEskirsg forcemeat. 
 Spread a caul, or srees of tat barer over tt, and bake it. 
 Parboil the halt of the liver and lights, and mince them rather 
 finer than fox a hash. trammer mas manes b good gravy, 
 and season it with the Juke of a lemon, catsup, write pepper, 
 chopped parsley, and salt. Dish the mines, and place the 
 heart above it. arc lav sHees c-t tried aver round :t. vx feted 
 parslev. or sip-nets, or bread crumbs: cr tne near:, n large and 
 fat. will make a handsome dish if studied with a rich force¬ 
 meat. roasted with caul or rarer over it. and served wish 
 melted cutter and catsup -purer mu: n. :r venison s.au:s. 
 
 Tb lns$ a Midcaif. 
 
 Take a cadis heart- stun it with good frmemea:, and send 
 it to the oven in an eartnen msn. wum a me warer under :t ; 
 lav butter over it, and dredge tt writ mui: c-:_ mar the liver 
 and all the liphts together half au hour, then thru them srtri, 
 and tut them in a tossing-par. vx a rmt :: gravy, ;ce 
 spoonfri of lemon tickle., and rue d f catsup; sqrsere in hah* 
 a lemon, pepoer. and scut: tricker vim a grc«i piece ;t r ut¬ 
 ter rolled in four; _ o e u von dish at up, peer the mar eel 
 
VEAL. 
 
 153 
 
 meat in the bottom, and have ready fried, a fine brown, tlie 
 other half of the liver cut in thin slices, and little bits of bacon ; 
 set the heart in the middle, and lay the liver and bacon over 
 the minced meat, and serve it up. 
 
 To dress a Calf's Head. 
 
 Wash it and soak it in hot water that it may blanch. 
 r l ake out the brains, and cut away the black part of the eyes. 
 Boil it in a large fish kettle, putting it on with plenty of cold 
 water, and some salt to throw up the scum. Simmer it gen¬ 
 tly for an hour and a half. Take up the head, and cut out 
 the tongue. Score the head (but not deeply) in diamonds; 
 brush it over with beat egg, and sprinkle it with bread crumbs, 
 chopped parsley, and seasonings. Stick a few bits of butter 
 over it, and brown the head in a Dutch oven. Meanwhile, 
 wash, scald, skin, and parboil the brains, and chop them up 
 with parsley and sage first parboiled and chopped, white pep¬ 
 per, and salt. Stir them into hot melted butter. Add the 
 squeeze of a lemon, or a little lemon pickle, a small quantity 
 of cayenne, and a minced shalot. Skin the tongue, and 
 serve the brains dressed as above directed, around it, as a 
 small dish to accompany the calf’s head. Serve also parsley 
 and butter. Curled slices of toasted bacon, a piece of ham or 
 bacon, a pig’s cheek, or sausage, are indispensable with calf’s 
 head, even when full dressed. 
 
 Another way. A Scotch dish .—Having parboiled the 
 head as above, cut down the one half of it, with the skinned 
 tongue, the palate, See. into dice, and other neatly shaped bits. 
 
 1 rim and brush the other half with egg, and strew crumbs, 
 chopped parsley, &c. over it, and set it to brown, sticking 
 butter over it, and basting it with more crumbs, &c. Mean¬ 
 while stew the hash in good veal broth, or jelly of cow-heels, 
 any rich stock you have, seasoned with mixed spices, the 
 grate and juice of a lemon, mace, or whatever seasoning is 
 most approved. Dish the mince, and lay the browned head 
 upon it. Garnish with brain cakes and forcemeat balls, or 
 or fried sippets. Anchovies, pickled oysters, catsup, Sic. may 
 be added to this ragout, which may, at the discretion of the 
 
 x 
 
154 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 cook, he either a white or brown ragout. A lamb’s head may 
 be dressed in the same manner. 
 
 A Calf’s Head, me half boiled, and the other baked. 
 
 Cleanse the head, parboil one half, rub it over the head 
 with a feather dipt in the beaten yelk of an egg. Strew over it 
 a seasoning of pepper, salt, thyme, parsley chopped small, 
 shred lemon peel, grated bread, and a little nutmeg; stick bits 
 of butter over it, and send it to the oven. Boil the other 
 half in a white cloth, and serve them both in one dish. Boil 
 the brains in a piece of clean cloth, with a very little parsley, 
 and a leaf or two of sage. When they are boiled, chop them 
 small, and warm them up in a saucepan, with a bit of butter, 
 and a little pepper and salt. Lay the tongue, boiled and 
 peeled, in the middle of a small dish, and the brains round it; 
 have in another dish, bacon and pickled pork ; and in a third, 
 greens and carrots. 
 
 To fricassee a Calfs Head. 
 
 Clean and parboil the head; cut the cheeks, tongue, palate, 
 &c. into nice bits, and stew them in a rich white gravy, with 
 a little of the broth in which the head was parboiled, seasoned 
 with white pepper, mace, herbs, onion, and salt. Thicken 
 with butter rolled in flour, and just before dishing the fricassee 
 add a little cream or beat yelk of egg. Simmer this, but do 
 not allow it to boil. Garnish with brain cakes and forcemeat 
 balls, or curled slices of bacon and egg balls. 
 
 Another way. Clean and half-boil half a head; cut the 
 meat into small bits, and put it into a tosser, with a little 
 gravy made of the bones, some of the water it was boiled in, 
 a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion, and a blade of mace. If 
 you have any young cockrels in the house, use the cockscombs, 
 but first boil them tender, and blanch them; or a sweetbread 
 will do as well. Season the gravy with a little pepper, nut¬ 
 meg, and salt; rub down some flour and butter, and give all a 
 boil together; then take out the herbs and onion, and add a 
 little cup of cream, but do not boil it in. 
 
 Serve with small bits of bacon rolled round, and balls. 
 
teal. 
 
 155 
 
 To hash a Calf's Head. 
 
 Clean and parboil the head; or take what is left of a 
 plainly boiled cold head, and cut it into slices of a rather 
 larger size than for fricassee. Peel and slice the tongus. 
 Take upwards of a quart of the liquor in which the head & was 
 boiled, with the bones, trimmings, and a shank of veal or 
 mutton, and boil these for the hash-stock, with a faggot of 
 sweet herbs, a good bit of lemon-peel, onions, and white pep¬ 
 per. Boil this gravy till it is good and well flavoured. 
 Thicken it with flour kneaded in butter, and strain it into a 
 clean saucepan. Season with pounded mace, catsup, or 
 lemon pickle, or a little of any piquante store sauce, and warm 
 up the hash, without suffering it to boil, though boiling will 
 not harden calf s head as it does other meat. Garnish with 
 forcemeat balls, or curled slices of bacon, or fried bread, which 
 forms a suitable accompaniment to all hashes. This hash may 
 be rendered more piquante by anchovy, pickled oysters, &c. 
 It may be dressed as a eurrie hash by the addition of fried 
 onions and eurrie powder; or receive the flavour of a genuine 
 French dish from finely shred parsley, knotted marjoram, and 
 a bit of tarragon being added to the sauce just before dishing, 
 or a little tarragon vinegar. It may also be flavoured very 
 agreeably with a little basil wine. A brown hash may be 
 made as above, by using fried onion, catsup, soy, a little red 
 wine, &c. 
 
 Another way. When half boiled, cut off the meat in 
 slices, half an inch thick, and two or three inches long ; brown 
 some butter, flour, and sliced onion, and throw in the slices 
 with some good gravy, truffles, and morels; give it one boil, 
 skim it well, and set it in a moderate heat to simmer till very 
 tender. 
 
 Season with pepper, salt, and cayenne, at first; and ten 
 minutes before serving, throw in some shred parsley, and a 
 very small bit of tarragon and knotted marjoram cut as fine as 
 possible; just before you serve, add the squeeze of a lemon. 
 Forcemeat balls, and bits of bacon rolled round. 
 
 Or, boil the head almost enough, and take the meat of the 
 best side neatly off the bone with a sharp knife; lay this into 
 
156 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 a small dish, wash it over with the yelks of two eggs, and 
 cover it with crumbs, a few herbs nicely shred, a little pepper 
 and salt, and a grate of nutmeg, all mixed together first. Set 
 the dish before the fire, and keep turning it now and then, 
 that all parts of the head may be equally brown. In the 
 mean time, slice the remainder of the head and tongue, but 
 first peel the tongue; put a pint of good gravy into a pan, 
 with an onion, a small bunch of herbs, (consisting of parsley, 
 basil, savory, tarragon, knotted marjoram, and a little thyme,) 
 a little salt and cayenne, a shalot, a glass of sherry, and a 
 little oyster liquor. Boil this for a few minutes, and strain it 
 upon the meat, which should be dredged with some flour. 
 Add some mushrooms either fresh or pickled, a few truffles 
 and morels, and two spoonfuls of catsup ; then beat up half 
 the brains, and put this to the rest, with a bit of butter and 
 Hour. Simmer the whole. 
 
 Beat the other part of the brains with shred lemon peel, a 
 little nutmeg and mace, some parsley shred, and an egg. 
 Then fry it in little cakes of a beautiful yellow brown. Dip 
 some oysters into the yelk of an egg, and do the same j and 
 also some relishing forcemeat balls, made as for mock tuitle. 
 Garnish with these, and small bits of bacon just made hot 
 before the fire. 
 
 To collar a Calf's Head. 
 
 Scald the skin off’ a fine head, clean it nicely, and take out 
 the brains. Boil it tender enough to remove the bones : then 
 have ready a good quantity of chopped parsley, mace, nutmeg, 
 salt, and white pepper, mixed well: season it high with these 
 lay the parsley in a thick layer, then a quantity of thick slices 
 of fine ham, or beautiful-coloured tongue skinned, and then 
 the yelks of six nice yellow eggs stuck here and there 
 about. Roll the head quite close, and tie it up as tight as 
 you can. Boil it, and then lay a weight on it. 
 
 A cloth must be put under the tape, as for other collars. 
 
 To fry a Calf's Brains. 
 
 «2ut the brains into four pieces, and soak them in broth 
 and white wine, with two slices of lemon put into it, a little 
 
VEAL. 
 
 157 
 
 pepper and salt, thyme, laurel, cloves, parsley, and shalots. 
 When they have remained in this about half an hour, take 
 them out and soak them in batter made of white wine, a little 
 oil, and a little salt, and fry them of a fine colour. You maj 
 likewise strew over them crumbs of bread mixed with the 
 yelks of eggs. Serve them up with plain melted butter, and 
 garnish with parsley. 
 
 Calf's Feet. 
 
 Boil the feet; take out the bones, and cut the meat in 
 thin slices, put it into a tossing-pan, with half a pint of good 
 gravy; boil them a little, and then put in a few morels, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of lemon pickle, a little mushroom powder, or pickled 
 mushrooms, the yelks of four eggs boiled hard, and a little 
 salt; thicken with a little butter rolled in flour; mix the yelk 
 of an egg with a teacup-ful of good cream, and half a nutmeg 
 grated; put it in, and shake it over the fire, but do not let it 
 boil, it will curdle the cream. Garnish with lemon and curled 
 parsley. 
 
 Kidneys. 
 
 Chop veal kidney, and some of the fat; likewise a little 
 leek or onion, pepper, and salt; wet it with an egg or two. 
 roll it up into balls, and fry them. 
 
 Mock Turtle several Ways. 
 
 L. Get a large fat head with the skin on. Scald and 
 clean it well. Soak it in hot water, and if you wish to have 
 the imitation dish very rich, parboil it in good veal broth, with 
 a turnip, carrot, onions, and sweet herbs. Skim this well. 
 In half an hour take up the head, and when cold enough to 
 be firm and easily handled cut the meat thus : the eyes into 
 round slices, having first picked out the black part; the gristly 
 part about the ears into long narrow stripes; the fleshy part 
 into round slices; the thick of the cheeks into small dice; the 
 thin on the forehead into long stripes; and the peeled tongue 
 into nice small bits. Put the bones and trimmings, with a 
 piece of bacon, back into the stock-pot. Fry some minced 
 
158 
 
 COMPOUND COOKER’S 
 
 shalot in plenty of butter browned with flour. Put the cut 
 meat to this browning, and give it a toss for a few minutes, 
 then strain a sufficient quantity of the stock over it to make 
 the dish not much thicker than a stew-soup. Season with 
 mace, pepper, salt, and a-half pint of Madeira When the 
 meat has stewed very slowly, rather soaking in the gravy than 
 actually boiling, and is nearly ready, put to it cayenne to taste, 
 a small glass of catsup, a very little soy, and a couple of spoon¬ 
 fuls of chopped basil, tarragon, chives, and parsley. When 
 skimmed to be dished add the juice of a lemon. Serve in a 
 large but not deep soup dish, ornamented with a cut paste 
 border, and garnish with forcemeat balls, and egg balls, with 
 
 a few green pickles intermixed.- Observations .—This 
 
 highly flavoured dish may be enriched by parboiled sweet¬ 
 breads cut, oysters, turtle balls, &c.; or if the head be lean or 
 small, good cow-heel cut down will make an excellent addi¬ 
 tion to it, but will require more boiling, and must be put into 
 the stock-pot an hour before the head. 
 
 2. Bespeak a calf’s head with the skin on, cut it in half, 
 and clean it well; then half-boil it, take all the meat off in 
 square bits, break the bones of the head, and boil them in 
 some veal and beef broth to add to the richness. Fry some 
 shalot in butter, and dredge in flour enough to thicken the 
 gravy; stir this into the browning, and give it one or two 
 boils; skim it carefully, and then put in the head; put in also 
 a pint of Madeira wine, and simmer it till the meat is quite 
 tender. About ten minutes before you serve, put in some 
 basil, tarragon, chives, parsley, cayenne pepper, and salt, to 
 your taste; also two spoonfuls of mushroom catsup, and one 
 of soy. Squeeze the juice of a lemon into the tureen, and 
 pour the soup upon it. Forcemeat balls and small eggs. 
 
 3. Prepare half a calf’s head, with the skin as above: 
 when the meat is cut off, break the bones, and put them into 
 a saucepan with some gravy made of beef and veal bones, and 
 seasoned with fried onions, herbs, mace, and pepper. Have 
 ready two or three ox-palates boiled so tender as to blanch, 
 and cut into small pieces; to which a cow-heel, likewise cut 
 into pieces, is a great improvement. Brown some butter, 
 flour, and onion, and pour the gr$vy to it; then add the meats 
 
VE.AL. 
 
 159 
 
 as above, and stew. Half a pint of sherry, an anchovy, two 
 spoonfuls of walnut catsup, the same of mushroom catsup, and 
 some chopped herbs as before. 
 
 4. Or, put into a pan a knuckle of veal, two fine cow heels, 
 two onions, a few cloves, pepper, berries of allspice, mace, 
 and sweet herbs: cover them with water, then tie a thick 
 paper over the pan, and set it in an oven for three hours. 
 When cold* take off the fat very nicely; cut the meat and 
 feet into bits an inch and a half square; remove the bones 
 and coarse parts; and then put the rest on to warm, with a 
 large spoonful of walnut and one of mushroom catsup, half a 
 pint of sherry or Madeira wine, a little mushroom powder, and 
 the jelly of the meat. When hot, if it wants any more sea¬ 
 soning, add some; and serve with hard eggs, forcemeat balls, 
 a squeeze of lemon, and a spoonful of soy.—This is a very easy 
 way, and the dish is excellent. 
 
 5. Or, stew a pound and a half of scrag of mutton, with 
 from three pints of water to a quart; then set the broth on, 
 with a calf’s foot and a cow heel, cover the stew-pan tight, 
 and simmer till you can get off the meat from the bones in 
 proper bits. Set it on again with the broth, a quarter of a 
 pint of Madeira or sherry wine, a large onion, half a tea-spoon¬ 
 ful of cayenne 'pepper, a bit of lemon peel, two anchovies, 
 some sweet herbs, eighteen oysters cut into pieces and then 
 chopped fine, a tea-spoonful of salt, a little nutmeg, and the 
 liquor of the oyster; cover it tight, and simmer three quarters 
 of an hour. Serve with forcemeat balls, and hard eggs in 
 the tureen. 
 
 An excellent and very cheap mock turtle may be made of 
 two or three cow heels baked, with two pounds and a half of 
 gravy beef, herbs, &c. as above, with cow heels and veal. 
 
 6. Scald a calf’s head with the skin on; put it in sufficient 
 broth to cover it; add two onions, a few allspice, and a bunch 
 of sweet herbs tied up. Let it boil tender, (for which two hourj 
 and a half will suffice;) strain off the broth, and cut the head 
 and tongue in square pieces : take half a pound of good but¬ 
 ter, four large onions chopped, a handful of parsley, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of thyme, ditto of knotted marjoram, and ditto of 
 sweet basil in powder • boil it well with the butter : then add 
 
160 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 a lemon peel, two teacup-fuls of flour, and a table-spoonful of 
 ground allspice, with pepper, salt, and cayenne pepper, to the 
 broth which was strained from the head. Let it boil well for 
 a quarter of an hour, then put the pieces of head in with the 
 forcemeat balls, and hard yelks of eggs. When sent to table, 
 to three quarts of the soup add two large glasses of sherry or 
 Madeira, lour or five yelks of eggs are sufficient for three 
 quarts of soup. 
 
 7. Line the bottom of a stew-pan that will hold five pints, 
 with an ounce of nice bacon, or ham, a pound and a half of 
 lean gravy beef, a cow heel, the inner rind of a quarter of a 
 carrot, a sprig of lemon-thyme, winter savory, three times the 
 quantity of parsley, a few green leaves of sweet basil, and two 
 shalots: make a bundle of these, and tie up in it a couple of 
 blades of mace; put in a large onion, with four cloves stuck 
 in it, twelve corns of allspice, the same of black pepper; pour 
 on these a quarter of a pint of cold water, cover your stewpan, 
 and set it on a slow fire to boil gently for a quarter of an 
 hour; then, lest your meat should catch, take off the co¬ 
 ver, and watch it; and when it has got a good brown colour, 
 fill up your stew-pan with boiling water, and let it simmer 
 very gently for two hours; if you wish to have the full bene¬ 
 fit of your meat, only stew it till it is just tender, and cut it 
 into mouthfuls, and put it into your soup. Put a table-spoon¬ 
 ful of thickening into a two-quart stew-pan, pour to it a ladleful 
 of your gravy, and stir it quick till it is well mixed, pour it 
 back into the stew-pan where your gravy is, and let it simmer 
 gently for half an hour longer, then strain it through a tarn mis 
 into a gallon stew-pan: cut the cow heel into pieces about an 
 inch square, squeeze through a sieve the juice of a lemon, a 
 table-spoonful of plain browning, the same of mushroom cat¬ 
 sup, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a tea-spoonful of ground black 
 pepper, as much grated nutmeg as will lie on a sixpence, and 
 a glass of Madeira or sherry wine; let it all simmer together 
 for about half an hour. 
 
16! 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 A Leg of Mutton to imitate Venison. 
 
 Get the largest and fattest leg of mutton, cut like "a 
 haunch of venison. This should be done as soon as the sheep 
 is killed, whilst it is warm. Take out the bloody vein; 
 stick it in several places in the under-side with a sharp-pointed 
 knife; pour over it a bottle of red wine; turn it in the wine 
 four or five times a day for five days, then dry it exceedingly 
 well with a clean cloth, hang it up in the air with the thick 
 end uppermost for five days; dry it night and morning to 
 keep it from being damp, or growing musty ; when you roast 
 it, cover it with paper and paste, as you do venison; serve it 
 up with venison sauce. It will take four hours roasting. 
 
 To force a Leg of Mutton. 
 
 Raise the skin, and take out the lean part of the mutton: 
 chop it exceedingly fine, with one anchovy: shred a bundle 
 of sweet herbs, grate a penny loaf, half a lemon, nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt to your taste; make them into a forcemeat 
 with three eggs and a large glass of red wine; fill up the skin 
 with the forcemeat, but leave the bone and shank in their 
 place, and it will appear like a whole leg; lay it on an earthen 
 dish, with a pint of red wine under it, and send it to the oven; 
 it will take two hours and a half; when it comes out, take off 
 all the fat, strain the gravy over the mutton, lay round it hard 
 yelks of eggs, and pickled mushrooms. Garnish with pickles, 
 and serve it up. 
 
 To dress a Haunch of Mutton. 
 
 Keep it as long as it can be preserved sweet by the differ¬ 
 ent modes: let it be washed with warm milk and water, or 
 vinegar, if necessary; but when to be dressed, observe to 
 wash it well, lest the outside should have a bad flavour from 
 keeping. Put a paste of coarse flour or strong paper, and 
 fold the haunch in; set it a great distance from the fire, and 
 allow proportionable time for the paste ; do not take it off til:. 
 
 Y 
 
162 
 
 COMPOUND L'OOKERY 
 
 about thirty-five or forty minutes before serving, and then 
 baste it continually. Bring the haunch nearer to the fire 
 before you take off the paste, and froth it up as you would 
 venison. 
 
 A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of loin of 
 old mutton, simmered in a pint of water to half, and no sea¬ 
 soning but salt: brown it with a little burnt sugar, and send 
 it up in the dish; but there should be a good deal of gravy 
 in the meat; for though long at the fire, the distance and 
 covering will prevent its running out. 
 
 Serve with currant-jelly sauce. 
 
 To roast a Saddle of Mutton. 
 
 Let it be first well kept. Raise the skin, and then skewer 
 it on again: take it off a quarter of an hour before serving, 
 sprinkle it with some salt, baste it, and dredge it well with 
 flour. The rump should be split, and skewered back on each 
 side. The joint may be large or small according to the com¬ 
 pany: it is the most elegant if the latter. Being broad, it 
 requires a high and strong fire. 
 
 Fillet of Mutton braised. 
 
 Take off the chump end of the loin, butter some paper, 
 and put over it, and then paste it as for venison; roast it two 
 hours. Do not let it be the least brown. Have ready some 
 French beans boiled, and drained on a sieve; and while the 
 mutton is being glazed, give them one heat up in gravy, and 
 lay them on the dish with the meat over them. 
 
 Fillet of Mutton with Cucumbers. 
 
 Take the best end of a neck of mutton, cut off the under 
 bone, leaving the long ones on; then trim it neatly, lard it, 
 let it remain plain, roast it gently, and serve it up with cucum¬ 
 bers or sorrel sauce under it. 
 
 A Shoulder of Mutton called Hen and Chickens. 
 
 Half roast a shoulder, then take it up, and cut off the blade 
 at the first joint, and both the flaps, to make the blade round ; 
 score the blade round in diamonds, throw a little pepper and 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 163 
 
 salt over it, and set it in a tin oven to broil. Cut the flaps 
 and meat off the shank in thin slices, and put the gravy that 
 came out of the mutton into a stew-pan, with a little good 
 gravy, two spoonfuls of walnut catsup, one of browning, a 
 little cayenne pepper, and one or two shalots. When your 
 meat is tender, thicken it with flour and butter, put it into the 
 dish with the gravy, and lay the blade on the top. Garnish 
 with green pickles. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton en Epigram. 
 
 Roast a shoulder of mutton till it is nearly enough done, then 
 carefully take off the skin about the thickness of a crown 
 piece, and also the shank bone at the end. Season both the 
 skin and shank bone with pepper, salt, a little lemon peel cut 
 small, and a few sweet herbs and crumbs of bread; lay it 
 on the gridiron till it is of a fine brown ; and in the meantime, 
 take the rest of the meat, and cut it like a hash, in pieces 
 about the bigness of a shilling. Save the gravy and put to it, 
 with a few spoonfuls of strong drawn gravy, a little nutmeg, half 
 an onion cut fine, a small bundle of herbs, a little pepper and 
 salt, some gherkins cut very small, a few mushrooms, two or 
 three truffles cut small, two spoonfuls of wine, and a little 
 flour dredged into it. Let all these stew together very slowly 
 for five or six minutes, but be careful it does not boil. Take 
 out the sweet herbs, lay the hash in the dish, and the broiled 
 upon it. Garnish with pickles. 
 
 To boil a Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters. 
 
 Hang it some days, then salt it well for two days; bone it, 
 and sprinkle it with pepper, and a bit of mace pounded: lay 
 some oysters over it, and roll the meat up tight, and tie it. 
 Stew it in a small quantity of water, with an onion and a few 
 pepper-corns, till quite tender. 
 
 Have ready a little good gravy, and some oysters steweft 
 in it: thicken this with flour and butter, and pour over the 
 mutton when the tape is taken off. The stew-pan should be 
 kept close covered. 
 
164 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Harrico of Mutton . 
 
 Take off some cif the fat, and cut the middle or best end 
 of the neck into rather thin steaks; flour and fry them in 
 their own fat of a fine light brown, but not enough for eating. 
 Then put them into a dish while you fry carrots, turnips, and 
 onions; which must have been previously boiled, and will only 
 require warming. Then lay the steaks at the bottom of a 
 stew-pan, the vegetables over them, and pour as much boiling 
 water as will just cover the whole : give one boil, skim well, 
 and then set the pan on the side of the fire to simmer gently 
 till tender. In‘three or four hours skim again: and add 
 pepper, salt, and a spoonful of catsup. 
 
 To ragout Mutton. 
 
 Cut some thin slices, the right way of the grain, off a fine 
 leg of mutton, and pare off all the skin and fat. Then put a 
 piece of butter into your stew-pan, and shake some flour over 
 it; add to these two or three slices of lemon, with half an 
 onion cut very small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a blade of 
 mace. Put your meat with these into the pan, stir them to¬ 
 gether, for five or six minutes, and then put in half a pint of 
 gravy, with an anchovy minced small, and a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour. Stir the whole well together, and when it has 
 stewed about ten minutes, dish it up, and serve it to table. 
 Garnish with pickles and sliced lemon. 
 
 To hash Mutton. 
 
 Cut thin slices of dressed mutton, fat and lean ; flour the?n ; 
 nave ready a little onion boiled in two or three spoonfuls of 
 water; add to it a little gravy and the meat seasoned, and 
 make it hot, but not to boil. Serve in a covered dish. In¬ 
 stead of onion, a clove, a spoonful of currant-jelly, and half a 
 glass of port wine, will give an agreeable flavour of venison, if 
 the meat be fine. 
 
 Pickled cucumber, or walnut, cut small, may be warmed in 
 it for change. 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 165 
 
 To dress Mutton the Turkish way. 
 
 Having cut your meat into thin slices, wash it in vinegar, 
 and put it into a pot or saucepan that has a close cover to it. 
 Put in some rice, whole pepper, and three or four whole 
 onions. Let all these stew together, skimming it frequently. 
 When enough, take out the onions, and season with salt to 
 your palate. Lay the mutton in the dish, and pour the rice 
 and liquor over it. 
 
 To dress a Breast of Mutton. 
 
 Cut off the superfluous fat, and roast and serve the meat 
 with stewed cucumbers; or to eat cold, cover with chopped 
 parsley. Or half boil, and then grill before the fire ; in which 
 case cover it with crumbs and herbs, and serve with caper 
 sauce. Or if boned, take off a good deal of the fat, and 
 cover it with bread, herbs, and seasoning; then roll and boil; 
 and serve with chopped walnuts, or capers and butter. 
 
 To collar a Breast of Mutton. 
 
 Bone your mutton, and rub it over with the yelk of an 
 egg; then grate over it a little lemon peel, and a nutmeg, 
 with a little pepper and salt; then chop small one teacup-ful 
 of capers, two anchovies; shred fine a handful of parsley, a 
 few sweet herbs; mix them with the crumbs of a penny 
 loaf, strew it over your mutton, and roll it up tight, boil it 
 two hours; then take it up, and put it into a pickle made as 
 for calf’s head. 
 
 To grill a Breast of Mutton. 
 
 Score a breast of mutton in diamonds, and rub it over with 
 the yelk of an egg; then strew on a few bread crumbs and 
 shred parsley; put it in a Dutch oven to broil: baste it with 
 fresh butter : pour in the dish good caper sauce, and serve 
 
 it up. 
 
 To roll a Imn of Mutton. 
 
 Hang the mutton till tender; bone it, and lay a seasoning 
 oVepper, allspice, mace, nutmeg, and a few cloves, all in fine 
 
166 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 powder, over it. Next day prepare a stuffing as for hare; 
 beat the meat and cover it with the stuffing; roll it up tight, 
 and tie it. Half-bake it in a slow oven; let it grow cold; 
 take off the fat, and put the gravy into a stew-pan ; flour the 
 meat, and put it in likewise; stew it till almost ready; and 
 add a glass of port wine, some catsup, an anchovy, and a 
 little lemon pickle, half an hour before serving: serve it in the 
 gravy, and with jelly sauce. A few fresh mushrooms are a 
 great improvement: but if to eat like hare, do not use these, 
 nor the lemon pickle. 
 
 To roast a collared Loin of Mutton. 
 
 Take off the fat from the upper side, and the meat from 
 the under side of a loin of mutton; bone it; season it with 
 pepper and salt, and some shalot or sweet herbs, chopped very 
 small. Let it be rolled up very tight, well tied round, and 
 roasted gently. About an hour and three quarters will do it. 
 While this is roasting, half-boil the meat taken from the 
 under side, then mince it small, put it into half a pint of 
 gravy, and against the mutton is ready, heat this, and pour it 
 into the dish when it is served up. 
 
 To stew a Loin of Mutton. 
 
 Bone a loin of aged mutton, taking off the skin, and the 
 inside fat. Then stew it in gravy till it becomes a good 
 brown. Put into the stew-pan, with the mutton, two ancho¬ 
 vies, and half a clove of garlic. Stew moderately till the meat 
 becomes tender. Half an hour before taking up, add a few 
 spoonfuls of port wine, and some catsup. Skim off the fat, 
 and thicken the sauce with butter and flour.—If well dressed, 
 tnis is a good looking dish, and in general is approved of. It 
 oats very well with venison sauce. 
 
 Mutton Collops. 
 
 Take a loin of mutton that has been well'hung; and cut 
 from the part next the leg some collops very thin. Take out 
 the sinews. Season the collops with salt, pepper, and mace; 
 and strew over them shred parsley, thyme, and two or three 
 shalots: fry them in butter till half done; add half a pint of 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 167 
 
 gravy, a little juice of lemon, and a piece of butter rubbed in 
 flour; and simmer the whole very gently five minutes. They 
 should be served immediately, or they will be hard. 
 
 Another way Take the lean of a loin of mutton ; cut it 
 iu thin slices, the size of a crown piece; season them with 
 salt and pepper, and fry on a saute-pan with butter, and glaze. 
 Cut some slices of potatoes of the same size with the mutton, 
 and fry them ; place a collop of mutton and potatoe, alternately, 
 round the dish, and put a quarter of a pint of white sauce in 
 the middle of it. 
 
 Mutton Chops dressed in the Portuguese Fashion. 
 
 The chops are to be first about half fried with sliced onion 
 or shalots, a bay leaf or two, some chopped parsley, salt, and 
 pepper; forcemeat then being placed or spread on a piece of 
 writing paper for each chop, it is put in, covered with more 
 forcemeat, and twisted closely up; a hole being left for the 
 end of the bone to pass through. In this state, it is broiled 
 on a gentle fire, and served up either with sauce Robert or a 
 little good gravy. 
 
 To fry Mutton Steaks. 
 
 Mix a little chopped parsley, thyme, and lemon peel, with 
 a spoonful or two of fine bread crumbs, a little grated nutmeg, 
 some pepper, and salt. Take some steaks from a neck or loin 
 of mutton, cut off most of the fat, beat them well, rub them 
 with yelk of egg, and strew them pretty thick with the bread 
 and herbs. Fry them of a nice brown, and serve them up 
 with crisped parsley in the dish. 
 
 Veal is very nice done in the same manner. 
 
 To stew Mutton Steaks. 
 
 Take some steaks off the best end of a loin of mutton, or 
 some slices cut out of the middle part of a leg. Season them 
 with pepper mid .salt, lay them into a stew-pan with some sliced 
 onion, and cover them with water and a little gravy. When 
 done on one side, turn the steaks on the other, and thicken 
 the gravy at the same time with some flour and butter. A 
 little shalot, or catsup or both, may be added at pleasure. 
 
lf>8 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY , 
 
 Twenty or twenty-five minutes will stew them enough. Long 
 stewing makes meat hard. 
 
 Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb, and Cucumbers. 
 
 Quarter cucumbers, and lay them into a deep dish, sprinkle 
 them with salt, and pour vinegar over them. Fry the chops 
 of a fine brown, and put them into a stew-pan; drain the 
 cucumbers, and put over the steaks ; add some sliced onions, 
 pepper, and salt; pour hot water or weak broth on them ; 
 stew and skim well. 
 
 Mutton Steaks Maintenon. 
 
 Half-fry, stew them while hot, with herbs, crumbs, and 
 seasoning; put them in paper immediately, and finish on the 
 gridiron. Be careful the paper does not catch: rub a bit of 
 butter on it first to prevent that. 
 
 To make French Steaks of a Neck of Mutton. 
 
 Let your mutton be very good and large, and cut off most 
 part of the fat of the neck, and then cut the steaks two inches 
 thick; make a large bole through the middle of the fleshy 
 part of every steaK with a penknife, and stuff it with force¬ 
 meat made of bread crumbs, beef suet, a little nutmeg, pepper, 
 and salt, mixed up with the yelk of an egg; when they are 
 stuffed, wrap them in writing paper, and put them in a Dutch 
 oven; set them before the fire to broil; they will take near 
 an hour; put a little brown gravy in your dish, and serve 
 them up in the papers. 
 
 Mutton Chops in Disguise. 
 
 Rub the chops over with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little 
 parsley. Roll each in half a sheet of white paper, well but¬ 
 tered within-side, and close the two ends. Boil some hog’s 
 lard, or beef dripping, in a stew-pan, and put the steaks in it. 
 Fry them of a fine brown, then take them out, and let the fat 
 thoroughly drain from thorn. Lay them -in your dish, and 
 serve them up with good gravy in a sauce-boat. Garnish 
 with hor&e-radish and fried parsley. 
 
MUTTON, 
 
 169 
 
 Mutton Rutnps ci-la-Brai»e. 
 
 Boil six mutton rumps for fifteen minutes in water, then 
 take them out, and cut them into two, and put them into a 
 stew-pan, with half a pint of good gravy, a gill of white wine, 
 an onion stuck with cloves, and a little salt and cayenne pep¬ 
 per. Cover them close, and stew them till they are tender. 
 Take them and the onion out, and thicken the gravy with a 
 little butter rolled in flour, a spoonful of browning, and the 
 juice of half a lemon. Boil it up till it is smooth, but not too 
 thick. Then put in the rumps, give them a shake or two, 
 and dish them up hot. Garnish with horse-radish and beet 
 root. For variety you may leave the rumps whole, and lard 
 six kidneys on one side, and do them the same as the rumps, 
 only not boil them, and put the rumps in the middle of the 
 dish, and kidneys round them, with the sauce over all. 
 
 Mutton Rumps and Kidneys. 
 
 Bone four rumps, (or more properly called tails) fill them 
 with forced meat, and put them in a stew-pan with about half 
 a pint of best stock : split six kidneys, and put them in a 
 stew-pan, cover them over with bacon ; put them on a slow 
 stove to simmer gently for about two hours. When done 
 take the rumps up and glaze them ; put the kidneys into an¬ 
 other stew-pan: strain the liquor they were done in, skim the 
 fat from it, and reduce it to a glaze; then add some coulis, 
 make it hot, squeeze a lemon in it, and put a little cayenne 
 pepper; put it to the kidneys; put the kidneys round the dish, 
 the sauce over them, and the rumps in the middle. Garnish 
 with paste or croutons. 
 
 To dress Mutton Rumps and Kidneys , with Rice. 
 
 Stew six rumps in some good mutton gravy half an hour; 
 then take them up, and let them stand to cool. Clear the 
 gravy from the fat; and put into it four ounces of boiled rice, 
 an onion stuck with cloves, and a blade of mace; boil them 
 till the rice is thick. Wash the rumps with yelks of eggs 
 well beaten, and strew over them crumbs of bread, a little pep¬ 
 per and salt, chopped parsley and thyme, and grated lemon 
 
 z 
 
170 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERT. 
 
 peel. Fry in butter of a fine brown. While the rumpa are 
 stewing, lard the kidneys, and put them to roast in a Dutch 
 oven- When the rumps are fried, the grease must he drained 
 before they are put on the dish; and the pan being cleared 
 likewise from the fat, warm the rice in it. Lay the latter on 
 the dish: the rumps put round on the rice, the narrow ends 
 towards the middle, and the kidneys between. Garnish with 
 hard eggs cut in half, the white being left on; or with differ¬ 
 ent coloured pickles. 
 
 Mutton kebobbed. 
 
 Take all the fat out of a loin of mutton, and that on the 
 outside also if too fat, and remove the skin. Joint it at every 
 bone: mix a small nutmeg grated with a little salt and pepper, 
 crumbs and herbs ; dip the steaks into the yelks of three eggs, 
 and sprinkle the above mixture all over them. Then place 
 the steaks together as they were before they were cut asunder, 
 tie them, and fasten them on a small spit. Roast them at a 
 quick fire; set a dish under, and baste them with a good 
 piece of butter and the liquor that comes from the meat; but 
 throw some more of the above seasoning over. When done 
 enough, take it up, and lay it in a dish; have half a pint of 
 good gravy ready besides that in the dish; and put into it two 
 spoonfuls of catsup, and rub down a tea-spoonful of flour with 
 it; give this a boil, and pour it over the mutton, but first skim 
 off the fat well. Mind to keep the meat hot till the gravy is 
 quite ready. 
 
 An excellent Hotch-potch. 
 
 Stew peas, lettuce, and onions, in a very little water with a 
 beef or ham-bone. While these are doing, fry some mutton 
 or lamb steaks seasoned, of a nice brown; three quarters of 
 an hour before dinner, put the steaks into a stew-pan, and the 
 vegetables over them; stew them, and serve all together in a 
 tureen. 
 
 Or, knuckle of veal, and scrag of mutton, stewed with 
 vegetables as above; to both add a bit of butter rolled in 
 flour. 
 
MUTTON. 
 
 171 
 
 China Chilo. 
 
 Mince a pint bason of undressed neck of mutton, or leg, 
 and some of the fat; put two onions, a lettuce, a pint of green 
 peas, a tea-spoonful of salt, a tea-spoonful of pepper, four tea- 
 spoonfuls of water, and two or three ounces of clarified butter, 
 into a stew pan closely covered; simmer two hours, and serve 
 in the middle of a dish of boiled dry rice. If cayenne is ap¬ 
 proved, add a little. 
 
 To dress Sheep’s Trotters . 
 
 Boil them in water, and then put them into a stew-pan 
 with a glass of white wine, half a pint of broth, as much 
 couiis, a bunch of sweet herbs, with salt, whole pepper, and 
 mace. Stew them by a slow fire till the sauce is reduced, 
 then take out the herbs, and serve them upon a grattan. 
 Sheep’s trotters may be served with a ragout of cucumbers. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets in Cabbage. 
 
 Take thick cutlets from the loin; blanch them by boiling 
 up in water a minute or two, and prepare in the same manner a 
 large cabbage cut in four quarters; put them together in a 
 stew-pan; cover with slices of fat bacon; put a pint of gravy 
 with salt and pepper, and stew them tender; when done, 
 strain off the gravy, take off the fat, and thicken the sauce 
 with a spoonful of flour, and pour it over the mutton and 
 cabbage. 
 
 N. B. Lamb cutlets are done the same way. 
 
 Mutton Pie with Cabbage. 
 
 Raise a crust with raised paste; blanch ten slices of mut 
 ton, and one of cabbage, cut in quarters; lay a layer of mut 
 ton and one of cabbage, seasoned with salt and pepper, till the 
 pie is full; cover with slices of fat bacon and crust; bake it 
 tender two hours; when done, add half a pint of brown 
 sauce. 
 
 Sheep's Tongues. 
 
 Blanch and skin eight sheep’s tongues; trim neat, and put 
 
1T2 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 them on in a braise; when tender, glaze them, and serve a 
 sauce Robert under them. 
 
 N. B. Salted mutton tongues may be done the same way, 
 and served with cabbage or endive sauce. 
 
 Another way. Scald and skin eight tongues; lard them 
 all over the top ; braise and glaze. Serve small omon sauce 
 under them. 
 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 Leg and Loin of Lamb. 
 
 Cut the leg from the loin, and boil it three quarters of an 
 hour. Cut the loin in handsome steaks, beat them with a 
 cleaver, and fry them a good brown. Then stew them a lit¬ 
 tle in strong gravy. Put the leg on the dish, and lay your 
 steaks round it. Pour on your gravy, lay round lumps of 
 staved spinach and crisped parsley on every steak. Send it 
 to table with gooseberry sauce in a boat, and garnish with 
 lemon. 
 
 Another way. Cut the loin into handsome steaks, and 
 fry them nicely. Boil the gigot slowly, skimming it well, 
 that it may look white and plump. Place the gigot in the 
 middle of the dish, lay the steaks around it, with sprigs of 
 nicely boiled cauliflower on each steak; or it may be served 
 with spinage, sorrel, or stewed cucumber. Pour some hot 
 melted butter over the gigot. This is an elegant variety in 
 dressing lamb, and is attended with no additional expense 
 whatever. 
 
 Leg of Lamb and Cucumbers. 
 
 Put the leg on a spit, butter and salt it, then paper it and 
 tie it on. When done take it up and glaze it: put the sai.ce 
 on the dish, and then the lamb 
 
 To roast a Tore-q uarter of Lamb. 
 
 Roast it either whole, or in separate parts. If left to be 
 
LAMB. 
 
 173 
 
 cold, chopped parsley should be sprinkled over it. The neck 
 and breast together are called a scoven or target. 
 
 A Forequarter of House Lamb. 
 
 A small forequarter of house Iamb will take an hour and a 
 half roasting; a leg three quarters of an hour. When it is 
 done, and put into the dish, cut off the shoulder, and pepper 
 and salt the ribs. Serve it up with salad, brocoli, potatoes, 
 or mint sauce. 
 
 A Quarter of Lamb forced . 
 
 Take a large leg of lamb, cut a long slit on the back side, 
 and take out the meat; but be careful you do not deface the 
 other side. Then chop the meat small with marrow, half a 
 pound of beef suet, some oysters, an anchovy washed, an 
 onion, some sweet herbs, a little lemon peel, and some beaten 
 mace and nutmeg. Beat all these together in a mortar, stuff 
 up the leg in the shape it was before, sew it up, and rub it 
 all over with the yelks of eggs beaten; spit it, flour it all 
 over, lay it to the fire, and baste it with butter. An hour 
 will roast it. In the meantime, cut the loin into steaks, sea¬ 
 son them with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, lemon peel cut fine, 
 and a few herbs. Fry them in fresh butter of a fine brown, 
 then pour out all the butter, put in a quarter of a pint of 
 white wine, shake it about, and add half a pint of strong 
 gravy wherein good spice has been boiled; a quarter of a pint 
 of oysters, and the liquor; some mushrooms, and a spoonful of 
 the pickle; a piece of butter rolled in flour, and the yelk of an 
 egg beat fine; stir all these together till thick, then lay your 
 leg of lamb in the dish, and the loin round it. Pour the 
 sauce over them, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 Breast of Lamb and Cucumbers. 
 
 Cut off the chine bone from the breast, and set it on to 
 stew with a pint of gravy. When the bones would draw out, 
 put it on the gridiron to grill; and then lay it in a dish on 
 cucumbers nicely stewed. 
 
174 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Shoulder of Lamb forced , with Sorrel Sauce. 
 
 Bone a shoulder of Iamb, and fill it up with forcemeat, 
 braise it two hours over a slow stove. Take it up, glaze it: 
 or it may be glazed only, and not braised. Serve with sorrel 
 sauce under the lamb. 
 
 Shoulder of Lamb grilled. 
 
 Having roasted the shoulder till three parts done, take it 
 up, and with a sharp knife score it in small diamonds, season¬ 
 ing with pepper and salt, or if intended to be highly seasoned, 
 with cayenne; broil of a nice brown, and serve with a good 
 coulis under it, to which add two spoonfuls of catsup, a little 
 lemon juice and butter, and place over thin slices of lemon. 
 
 Shoulder of Lamb , and Sorrel Sauce. 
 
 Take the blade bone out, and fill up the place with forced 
 meat; sew it up and put it into a braise, and put it on the 
 stove to simmer quite slow: when done glaze it, put the sorrel 
 sauce on the dish, and the Iamb on it: garnish with either 
 paste or croutons. 
 
 Another way. Bone a shoulder of lamb; lard it over the 
 top, fill it with forcemeat, sew it up in the shape of a pear; 
 braise it two hours ; glaze it, serve cucumber or ragout sauce 
 under it. 
 
 Lamb Chops. 
 
 Cut a neck of lamb neatly into chops, and rub them over 
 with egg yelk; then strew over them some bread crumbs, 
 mixed with a little clove, mace, white pepper, and salt. Fry 
 to a nice brown, and place the chops regularly round a dish, 
 leaving an opening in the middle, to be filled with stewed 
 spinach, cucumber, or sorrel. 
 
 House-lamb Steaks, white. 
 
 Stew them in milk and water till very tender, with a bit of 
 lemon peel, a little salt, some pepper, and mace. Have readv 
 some veal gravy, and put the steaks into it; mix some mush- 
 
LAMB. 
 
 175 
 
 rcom powder, a cup of cream, and the least bit of flour, shake 
 the steaks in this liquor, stir it, and let it get quite hot Just 
 before you take it up, put in a few white mushrooms. This 
 is a good substitute when poultry is very dear. 
 
 House-lamb Steaks, brown. 
 
 Season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated lemon peel, 
 and chopped parsley; but dip them first into egg: fry them 
 quick. Thicken some good gravy with a bit of flour and but¬ 
 ter; and add to it a spoonful of port wine, and some oysters; 
 boil it up, and then put in the steaks warm; let them heat 
 up, and serve. You may add palates, balls, or eggs, if you 
 like. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets with Spinach, or mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Cut the steaks from the loin, and fry them; the spinach is 
 to be stewed, or the potatoes mashed, and put into the dish 
 first, and then the cutlets round it; the potatoes maybe either 
 plain mashed, or browned in a Dutch oven. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets, with Cucumber Sauce. 
 
 Cut the chine off a neck of lamb, cut it into cutlets, and 
 trim them neatly: into a stew-pan put three ounces of butter, 
 pepper, salt, chopped eschalots, thyme, parsley, and lemon 
 juice: melt the butter, and put in the cutlets till three parts 
 done: take them up, and when nearly cool, brush them over 
 with yelk of egg, sprinkle with grated bread, and fry in boil¬ 
 ing lard: drain off the fat, and serve with cucumber sauce in 
 the middle of the dish. 
 
 Veal and mutton cutlets may be dressed in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Lamb's Head. 
 
 Wash the head very clean, take the black part from the 
 eyes, and the gall from the liver. Lay the head in warm 
 water; boil the lights, heart, and part of the liver. Chop 
 and flour them, and toss them up in a saucepan with some 
 gravy, catsup, and a little pepper, salt, lemon juice, and a 
 spoonful of cream. Boil the head very white, lay it in the 
 
176 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 middle of the dish, and the mince-meat round it. Place the 
 other parts of the liver fried, with some very small bits of 
 bacon on the mince-meat, and the brains fried in little cakes, 
 and laid on the rim of the dish, with some crisped parsley put 
 between. Pour a little melted butter over the head, and 
 garnish with lemon. 
 
 Another way. Boil the head and pluck tender, but do 
 not let the liver be too much done. Hack the head cross 
 and cross, grate some nutmeg over it, and lay it in a dish be¬ 
 fore a good fire. Grate some crumbs of bread, some sweet 
 herbs rubbed, a little lemon peel chopped fine, a very little 
 pepper and salt, and baste it with a little butter; throw a little 
 flour over it, baste and dredge it. Take half the liver, the 
 heart, lights and tongue, chop them small, with about a gill 
 of gravy or water. Shake some flour over the meat, stir it 
 together, put in the gravy or water a good piece of butter 
 rolled in a little flour, a little pepper and salt, and what runs 
 from the head in the dish. Simmer all together a few 
 minutes, and add half a spoonful of vinegar; pour it into the 
 dish, lay the head in the middle of the mince-meat, have ready 
 the other half of the liver cut thin with some slices of bacon 
 broiled, and lay round the head. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Lamb's Head and Hinge. 
 
 Boil the head by itself till it is tender. Boil the liver and 
 lights till they are nearly done enough, then mince them. 
 Take about half a pint of the liquor they were boiled in , 
 thicken it with a little butter and flour, add a little catsup, a 
 little vinegar, salt and pepper. Put in the brains and the 
 mince, and let it stew a short time. While this is doing, rub 
 the head, which should be parted in two, with yelk of egg, 
 strew it with bread crumbs and chopped parsley; and brown it 
 with a salamander, or in a Dutch oven. Then serve it up 
 with the mince poured round it. The heart may be seasoned 
 and broiled if preferred, instead of mincing it. 
 
 Lamb's Head minced. 
 
 Chop the head in halves, and blanch it with the liver, 
 heart, and lights: clean the brains in warm water, dip them 
 
LAMB. 
 
 177 
 
 in yelk of egg, grated bread, and chopped parsley, seasoned 
 with white pepper and salt; and whilst the head is blanching, 
 fry them in boiling lard, and drain. Chop the heart, &c. and 
 add a little parsley and lemon peel, chopped very fine, seasoned 
 with white pepper and salt; stew in some coulis till tender. 
 \V ash the head over with yelk of egg, strew over grated 
 bread, seasoned with white pepper and salt, and bake gently 
 till very tender. Serve up, having browned the head with a 
 salamander; put the mince under it, and the brains round it, 
 with rashers of broiled bacon. 
 
 To steiv Lamb's Head. 
 
 In order to stew a lamb’s head, wash and pick it very clean. 
 Lay it in water for an hour, take out the brains, and with a 
 sharp knife carefully extract the bones and the tongue; but 
 be careful to avoid breaking the meat. Then take out the 
 eyes. Take two pounds of veal, and two pounds of beef suet, 
 a very little thyme, a good piece of lemon-peel minced, 
 part oi a nutmeg grated, and two anchovies. Having chop¬ 
 ped all these well together, grate two stale rolls, and mix all 
 with the yelks of four eggs. Save enough of this meat to 
 make about twenty balls. Take half a pint of fresh mush¬ 
 rooms, clean peeled and washed, the yelks of six eggs chopped, 
 half a pint of oysters clean washed, or pickled cockles. Mix 
 all together; but first stew your oysters, and put to them two 
 quarts of gravy, with a blade or two of mace. Tie the head 
 with packthread, cover it close, and let it stew two hours. 
 While this is doing, beat up the brains with some lemon peel 
 cut fine, a little chopped parsley, a little grated nutmeg, and 
 the yelk of an egg. Fry the brains in little cakes, in boiling 
 dripping, and fry the balls, and keep them both hot. Take 
 half an ounce of truffles and morels, and strain the gravy the 
 head was stewed in. Put to it the truffles and morels, and a 
 few mushrooms, and boil all together; then put in the rest of 
 the brains that are not fried, and stew them together for a 
 minute or two. Pour this over the head, Jay the fried brains 
 and balls round it, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 2 A 
 
178 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Lamb's Sweetbreads. 
 
 Blanch them, and put them a little while into cold water 
 limn put them into a stew-pan, with a teacup-fi.il of broth, some 
 pepper and salt, a small bunch of small onions, and a blade of 
 mace; stir in a bit of butter and flour, and stew half an hour. 
 Have ready two or three eggs well beaten in cream, with a 
 little minced parsley, and a few grates of nutmeg. Put in 
 some boiled asparagus tops to the other things. Do not let it 
 boil after the cream is in; but make it hot, and stir it well all 
 the while. Take great care it does not curdle. Young 
 French beans or peas may be added, first boiled of a beautiful 
 colour. 
 
 Lamb's Feet or Ears , with Mushrooms. 
 
 Scald and bone the feet; put in some forcemeat; braise 
 them tender; serve mushroom sauce under them. 
 
 To dress I jamb's Feet with Asparagus Tops. 
 
 Take twelve scalded feet, remove the worm from the hoof^ 
 loosen the skin and gristles, put them into cold water, and let 
 them boil till the shank will draw out, without breaking the 
 skin. Put them into a stewpan, peel two lemons, and, having 
 sliced them, lay them over the feet, with sliced bacon, and 
 paper upon that. Pour into the pan half a pint of gravy, 
 with the feet, and let the whole simmer half an hour. When 
 done, set the feet aside, and in the mean time boil up the tops 
 of small asparagus with a little stock, till reduced to a glaze. 
 Add some white sauce and cream, take up the feet, and lay 
 them round a dish, with the peas in the middle. 
 
 Hashed Lamb and broiled Blade-bone. 
 
 Cut the blade-bone from the shoulder of lamb, leaving a 
 little meat upon it; score, pepper, and salt it; put it on a 
 tart-dish ; put over it a little oiled butter, and put it into the 
 oven to warm through; cut the other part of the meat into 
 neat collops; put a little coulis sauce into a stew-pan; make 
 
LAMB. 
 
 179 
 
 it hot, and add a little mushroom catsup, and half a spoonful 
 of eschalot vinegar; put in the collops, set them by the side 
 of a stove to get hot, but do not let them boil; take the blade- 
 bone out of the oven ; put it on a gridiron to brown, and put 
 the hash on the dish, and the blade-bone on the middle of 
 the dish. 
 
 Fricasseed Lambstones. 
 
 Skin and wash, then dry and flour them ; fry of a beauti¬ 
 ful brown, in hog’s lard. Lay them on a sieve before the 
 fire till you have made the following sauce ; Thicken almost 
 half a pint of veal-gravy, with a bit of flour and butter, and 
 then add to it a slice of lemon, a large spoonful of mushroom 
 catsup, a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a grate of nutmeg, 
 and the yelk of an egg beaten well in two large spoonfuls of 
 thick cream. Put this over the fire, and stir it well till it is 
 hot, and looks white; but do not let it boil, or it will curdle. 
 Then put in the fry, and shake it about near the fire for a 
 minute or two. Serve in a very hot dish and cover. 
 
 Fricassee of Lambstones and Sweetbreads. 
 
 Have ready some lambstones blanched, parboiled, and 
 sliced. Flour two or three sweetbreads: if very thick, cut 
 them in two. Fry all together, with a few large oysters, of 
 a fine yellow brown. Pour the butter off; and add a pint of 
 good gravy, some asparagus tops about an inch long, a little 
 nutmeg, pepper, and salt, two shalots shred fine, and a glass 
 of white wine. Simmer ten minutes; then put a little of the 
 gravy to the yelks of three eggs well beaten, and by degrees 
 mix the whole. Turn the gravy back into the pan, and stii 
 it till of a fine thickness, without boiling. Garnish with 
 lemon. 
 
 Lamb’s Rumps and Fars , brown. 
 
 Scald an equal number of each very clean; take a pint 
 of veal stock, in which braise them till half done: take up 
 the rumps, and having brushed them over with yelk of egg, 
 strew with grated bread, and broil gently: stew the ears till 
 
180 
 
 COMPOUND COOKEUY. 
 
 the liquor is nearly reduced, and having now added coulis, 
 stew till tender, and serve with the rumps round the ears, and 
 sauce. 
 
 Lamb's Rumps and Ears , white. 
 
 Proceed as above directed; and when they are tender, 
 and the liquor is nearly reduced, add a leason of eggs, and 
 serve. 
 
 Lamb's Bits. 
 
 Skin the stones, and split them ; then lay them on a dry 
 cloth with the sweetbreads and t-he liver, and dredge them 
 well with flour. Fry them in lard or butter till they are of a 
 light brown, and then lay them in a sieve to drain. Fry a 
 good quantity of parsley, lay your bits on the dish, the 
 parsley in lumps over them, and pour round them melted 
 butter. 
 
 A very nice Dish. 
 
 Take the best end of a neck of lamb, cut it into steaks, 
 and chop each bone so short as to make the steaks almost 
 round. Egg and strew the crumbs, herbs, and seasoning; 
 fry them of the finest brown; mash some potatoes with a little 
 butter and cream, and put them into the middle of the dish 
 raised high. Then place the edge of one steak on another 
 with the small bone upward, all round the potatoes. 
 
 A Lamb's Haggis. 
 
 Slit up all the little fat tripes with scissors, and clean 
 them. Clean the kernels also; and parboil the whole, and 
 cut them into little bits. Clean and shred the web and kid¬ 
 ney-fat, and mix it with the tripes. Season with salt, pepper, 
 and grated nutmeg. Make a thin batter with two eggs, a 
 half-pint of milk, and the necessary quantity of flour. Sea¬ 
 ton with chopped chives or young onions. Mix the whole 
 together. Sew up the bag, which must be very clean, and 
 boil for an hour and a half. 
 
LAMB. 
 
 181 
 
 Iximb’s Rumps and Ears. 
 
 Scald them clean, put them into a pint of veal stock, and 
 braise them till half done. Take up the rumps, brush them 
 over with the yelk of an egg, strew upon them some grated 
 bread, and broil them. In the mean time, stew the ears till 
 the liquor is nearly reduced. Add some coulis, and stew 
 them till tender. If intended to be served with white sauce 
 proceed as before, adding thereto some egg. 
 
 Rump of Beef en Matelotte* 
 
 Cut a rump into pieces, and parboil them. Take some 
 common stock, boil it whole without seasoning, and when 
 half done, stir in some butter, with a spoonful of flour, till 
 brown, and moisten it with the liquor the beef was done in. 
 Put in with the rump twelve large onions parboiled, a glass 
 of white wine, a bunch of parsley, a leaf of laurel, some sweet 
 herbs, pepper, and salt. Stew the rump and onions till ten¬ 
 der; skim the surface well, and put an anchovy cut small, 
 with some chopped capers, into the sauce. Lay the rump in 
 the middle of the dish, with the onions round it. A rump 
 done in this way will take four hours. 
 
 To force the Inside of a Sirloin of Beef . 
 
 Raise the fat, cut the meat close to the bones, and chop 
 it small. Cut a pound of suet in the same manner ; then put 
 to it some crumbs of bread, lemon peel shreded, thyme, 
 pepper, and salt, half of a grated nutmeg, and two sbalots 
 chopped fine. Mix these with a glass of port: put the 
 whole into the cavity from whence the beef was cut, draw 
 the skin and fat over it, skewer it down, and cover it with 
 paper. Spit the sirloin before the meat is taken out, and 
 put it down to the fire. Previous to its being done, take a 
 quarter of a pint of port, and shalots cut small; boil them, 
 
 • This and the two following recipes were accidentally omitted under 
 their respective heads. 
 
182 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 and pour the whole into the dish with the gravy. Send it 
 hot to table, garnished with lemon. The inside of a rump 
 of beef may be done in the same way, by taking off the skin, 
 cutting out the meat in the middle, and proceeding as before. 
 
 Bombarded Veal. 
 
 Cut out the bone of a fillet; make a forcemeat with the 
 ci umb of a penny loaf, half a pound of fat bacon scraped, a 
 little lemon-peel, parsley, two or three sprigs of sweet mar¬ 
 joram, and one anchovy, all chopped, some grated nutmeg, 
 cayenne pepper, and salt. Mix all these together, with an 
 egg and a little cream, and fill up the cavity from whence the 
 bone was extracted. Cut the fillet across, in divisions about 
 an inch asunder all round ; fill one part with forcemeat, a 
 second with boiled spinach well squeezed, a third with bread 
 crumbs, chopped oysters, and beef marrow, and so on alter¬ 
 nately. Having filled up all the divisons, fasten the caul over 
 the fillet, and put it into a pot, with a pint of water, and cover 
 it with a coarse paste. 1 hen send it to the oven, and when 
 done, skim off the fat, put the gravy into a stew-pan, with a 
 spoonful of lemon pickle, one of mushroom catsup, two of 
 browning, half an ounce of morels, and five boiled artichoke 
 bottoms quartered. Thicken the sauce with butter and flour; 
 give it a gentle boil, and pour it upon the veal in the dish. 
 
 
 PORK. 
 
 ■ To roast a Leg of Pork in Imitation of Goose. 
 
 Having parboiled the leg, take off the skin, and then put 
 Jt down to roast; baste it with butter, and when nearly done, 
 sprinkle it with a powder made of dry sage, ground black 
 pepper, sah, and grated bread, rubbed together through a 
 colander. You may add a minced onion to the mixture. 
 Put half a pint of gravy into the dish, and goose stuffing 
 under the skin of the knuckle, or garnish with balls of it 
 either fried or boiled. 
 
PORK, 
 
 J$3 
 
 Another way. Salt a small leg of pork, and let it lie two 
 or three days; then wash it out of the brine, score the skin in 
 the form of diamonds, about a quarter of an inch asunder; 
 next take four onions chopped small, a little sage rubbed fine, 
 pepper, and a very small quantity of salt; raise up the skin in 
 the thick part, and having forced in the stuffing, skewer it 
 up close. Roast it at a brisk fire, and serve it with apple 
 sauce. 
 
 Leg of Pork a-la-Boisson. 
 
 Boil for ten minutes a leg of pork that has lain in salt 
 three or four days; then take it up, skin, split, and put it to 
 the fire. About half an hour before it is done, shake over 
 it crumbs of bread, baste it with butter, put on more crumbs, 
 and repeat the process till it is brown. Then take it up, lay 
 under it some sage, an onion chopped fine, and boiled in gravy, 
 and serve with apple sauce. 
 
 To dress a Loin of Pork to eat like Wild Boar. 
 
 Cut a loin of pork as for chops, but leave the end bones 
 whole. Lay some minced sage between the cuts, and soak 
 the meat in an equal quantity of vinegar and water, for ten or 
 twelve days. Then put in more sage, tie it up close, and 
 bake it with the rind downward in vinegar and water. When 
 done, serve it up in its gravy, first skimming it clear, and 
 adding a little sugar and red wine; or the pork may be eaten 
 with sweet sauce. 
 
 To dress Fillet of Pork with Robert Sauce. 
 
 Bone a neck or loin of pork, cut off the rind, put some 
 stock into a stew-pan, with fat, lay in the meat, cover it with 
 sage and onions, sprinkle it with salt, and place the rind over 
 it. Stew it three hours, drain off the fat, and put the sauce 
 into the dish. 
 
 To dress a Pork Griskin. 
 
 Put it into as much cold water as will cover it, and let it 
 boil; then take it off, and lav it in a Dutch oven, where it 
 will be done in a few minutes. You may stuff it with sage 
 
184 
 
 COMPOLND COOKERY. 
 
 and onions. Rub butter and flour over it, before it is put 
 down to the fire. A griskin of seven or eight pounds will 
 take an hour and a half roasting, in the common way. 
 
 Fillet of Pork , braised. 
 
 Cut the fillet off the neck without bones; take the skin 
 off, and braise it in the following manner. First blanch it in 
 hot water; then put it into a stew-pan just large enough to hold 
 it, with thin slices of fat bacon under and over; also, one onion, 
 twenty peppercorns, and allspice, with three slices of lemon 
 without the peel, and as much gravy or broth as to keep it 
 stewing without covering it, adding to it as it boils away; 
 and suffer to stew till it is quite tender. Then glaze by melt¬ 
 ing the portable gravy, and brushing it over the top till it is 
 entirely covered, and serve tomata sauce or sauer kraut under it. 
 
 To roast a collared Neck of Pork. 
 
 Let the meat be boned, then strew the inside pretty well 
 with bread crumbs, chopped sage, a very little beaten allspice, 
 some pepper and salt, all mixed together. Roll it up very 
 close, bind it tight, and roast it gently. An hour and a half, 
 or a little more, according to the thickness, will roast it 
 enough. 
 
 A loin of pork with the fat and kidney taken out and 
 boned, and a spring of pork boned, are very nice dressed in 
 the same way. 
 
 To dress Pork as Lamb. 
 
 For this purpose take a young pig of four or five months 
 old; cut up the fore-quarter for roasting as you do lamb, and 
 truss the shank close. The other parts will make delicate 
 tackled pork; or steaks, pies, &c. 
 
 Spring or Forehand of Pork. 
 
 Cut out the bone: sprinkle salt, pepper, and sage dried, 
 over the inside; but first warm a little butter to baste it, and 
 then flour it; roll the pork tight, and tie it; then roast by a 
 hanging jack. About two h<>urs will do it. 
 
PORK. 
 
 185 
 
 To prepare a Hog's Head. 
 
 Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the ears, and 
 sprinkle it with common salt for a day; then drain it: salt it 
 well with common salt and saltpetre three days, then lay the 
 salt and head into a small quantity of water for two days. 
 Wash it, and boil it till all the bones will come out; remove 
 them, and chop the head as quick as possible; but first skin 
 the tongue, and take the skin carefully off the head, to put 
 under and over. Season with pepper, salt, and a little mace 
 or allspice berries. Put the skin into a small pan, press the 
 cut head in, and put the other skin over; press it down. 
 When cold, it will turn out, and make a kind of brawn. If 
 too fat, you may put a few bits of lean pork to be prepared 
 the same way. Add salt and vinegar, and boil these with 
 some of the liquor for a pickle to keep it. 
 
 To collar a Pig's Head. 
 
 Scour the head and ears nicely; take off* the hair and snout, 
 and take out the eyes and the brain; lay it into water one 
 night; then drain, salt it extremely well with common salt 
 and saltpetre, and let it lie five days. Boil it enough to take 
 out the bones ; then lay it on a dresser, turning the thick end 
 of one side of the head towards the thin end of the other to 
 make the roll of equal size; sprinkle it well with salt and 
 white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and if you approve, 
 put the pig’s feet round the outside when boned, or the thin 
 parts of two cow-heels. Put it into a cloth, bind with a 
 broad tape, and boil it till quite tender; then put a good 
 weight upon it, and don’t take off the covering till cold. 
 
 If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it longer, and 
 let the proportion of saltpetre be greater, and put in also some 
 pieces of lean pork; and then cover it with cow-heel to lock 
 like the horn. 
 
 This may be kept either in or out of pickle of salt and 
 water boiled, with vinegar; and is a very convenient thing to 
 have in the house. 
 
 If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either with or without 
 butter. 
 
 a « 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 IttJ 
 
 To force Hog s Tors. 
 
 Parboil two pair of ears, or take some that have been 
 moused; make a forcemeat of an anchovy, some sage, parsley, 
 .» quarter of a pound of suet chopped, bread crumbs, pepper, 
 and only a little salt. Mix all these with the yelks of two 
 e>jgs ; raise the skin of the upper side of the ears, and stud 
 ihem with the above. Fry the ears in fresh butter, of a fine 
 colour; then pour away the fat, and drain them : make ready 
 half a pint of rich gravy, with a glass of fine sherry, three tea¬ 
 spoonfuls of made mustard, a little bit ol flour and butter, a 
 small onion whole, and a little pepper and cayenne. Put this 
 with the ears into a stew-pan, and cover it close: stew it 
 gently for half an hour, shaking the pan often. When done 
 enough, take out the onion, place the ears carefully in a dish, 
 and pour the sauce over them. If a larger dish is wanted, 
 the meat from two feet may be added to the above. 
 
 Different ways of dressing Pig's Feet and Ears. 
 
 1. Clean carefully, and soak some hours, and boil them ten¬ 
 der; then take them out; boil some vinegar and a little salt 
 with some of the water, and when cold put it over them. 
 When they are to be dressed, dry them, cut the feet in two, 
 and slice the ears ; fry, and serve with butter, mustard, and 
 vinegar. They may be either done in batter, or only floured. 
 
 2. Clean and scald the feet and ears, divide the feet down 
 the middle, tie them together, put them into a saucepan with 
 water enough to cover them well: when they boil, skim them 
 clean, add some pepper, mace, allspice, salt, two or three 
 onions, and a little thyme. Stew them till tender, and set 
 them by. The next day clear them from fat, and shake the 
 feet (untying them first) a little over the fire, with a little of 
 the liquor they were boiled in, some chopped parsley and 
 shalots, and a little lemon juice. Then rub the feet over with 
 yelk of egg and bread crumbs, and brown them with a sala¬ 
 mander. Slice the ears into long narrow slips, stew them a 
 few minutes in some good gravy, and serve them up with the 
 feet upon them. 
 
 3. Put no vinegar into the pickle, if to be dressed with 
 
PORK. 
 
 18 ? 
 
 cieam. Cut the feet and cars into neat bits, and boil them 
 in a little milk; then pour that from them, and simmer it in 
 a veal broth, with a bit of onion, mace, and lemon-peel. 
 Before you serve, add a little cream, flour, butter, and salt. 
 
 4. Clean and prepare as in the last article, then boil them 
 in a very small quantity of water till every bone can be taken 
 out; throw in half a handful of chopped sage, the same of 
 parsley, and a seasoning of pepper, salt, and mace, in fine 
 powder; simmer it till the herbs are scalded, then pour the 
 whole into a melon-form. 
 
 To roast a Sucking Pig without scalding. 
 
 The pig is not to be scalded; but, being drawn and washed, 
 must be spitted with the hair on, and put to the fire, yet not 
 so as to scorch. When it is about a quarter roasted, and the 
 skin appears blistered from the flesh, the hair and skin is to 
 be pulled clean away with the hand, leaving all the fat and 
 flesh perfectly bare. Then, with a knife, the flesh is to be 
 scotched or scored down to the bone, and exceedingly well 
 basted with fresh butter and cream very moderately warm, and 
 dredged plentifully with fine bread crumbs, currants, sugar, 
 and salt mixed up together. Thus basting on dredging, and 
 dredging on basting, must be constantly applied, in turns, till 
 the entire flesh is covered a full inch deep; when, the meat 
 being fully roasted, the pig is to be served up whole, with the 
 usual sauce for a pig roasted in the common way. 
 
 To collar a Sucking Pig. 
 
 Bone your pig, and then rub it all over with pepper and 
 salt beaten fine, a few sage leaves, and sweet herbs chopped 
 small. Roll it up tight, and bind it with a fillet. Fill your 
 boiler with soft water, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, a few 
 pepper-corns, a blade or two of mace, eight or ten cloves, a 
 handful of salt, and a pint of vinegar. When it boils, put in 
 your pig, and let it boil till it is tender. Then take it up, 
 and when it is almost cold, bind it over again, put it into an 
 earthen pot, and pour the liquor your pig was boiled in upon 
 it. Be careful tc cover it close down after you cut any for 
 
 use. 
 
188 
 
 COMPOUND COOK F, It Y. 
 
 To borbecu a Pig. 
 
 Prepare it as for roasting. Make a forcemeat of two an¬ 
 chovies, six sage leaves, and the liver, all chopped fine; pound 
 them in a mortar, with the crumb of a roll, four ounces of 
 butter, half a spoonful of cayenne, and half a pint of red wine, 
 Put this composition into the belly of the pig, and sew it up. 
 Lay the pig before the fire, but at some distance, singe it 
 well, put some more wine into the pan, and baste it often. 
 When half done, put under it two rolls, and, if wanted, some 
 more wine. Just before it is done, take out the bread and 
 sauce, and put to it an anchovy chopped small, some sweet 
 herbs, and half a lemon. Boil it a few minutes, take up the 
 pig, strain the sauce, and pour it on boiling hot. Garnish 
 with barberries and sliced lemon. A leg of pork may be done 
 the same way. 
 
 Pig au Pere Duillet. 
 
 Cut off the head, quarter the body, lard it with bacon, and 
 season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, cloves, and mace. Lay 
 some fat bacon at the bottom of a kettle, put the head in the 
 middle, and the quarters round it. Take a bay leaf, a shred- 
 ed onion, a lemon, some carrots, parsley, and the liver and 
 cover these with bacon. Stew the whole for an hour in a 
 quart of stock, and take it up, put it into a stew-pan, pour 
 thereto a bottle of wine, cover all close, and simmer gently for 
 another hour. Skim the fat off the first gravy, and strain it, 
 then take a sweetbread cut into slices, some truffles, morels, 
 and mushrooms, and stew the whole. Thicken with yelks of 
 eggs, or butter rolled in flour, and when the pig is done, take 
 it out. Put the wine in which it was stewed into the sauce, 
 pour it over the pig, and garnish with lemon. If to be eaten 
 cold, let it stand: drain, and wipe it; then lay it in a dish, 
 the head in the middle, and the quarters round it, with some 
 parsley over all. Either of the quarters will make a neat dish 
 of itself. 
 
VENISON. 
 
 189 
 
 Method of roasting a Pig , as practised in the Kitchen of 
 
 Queen Anne. 
 
 Put some sage into the belly of the pig, sew it up, roast, 
 and baste it with butter, and sprinkle it with salt. When 
 fine and crisp, serve it with a sauce made of chopped sage and 
 currants, well boiled in vinegar and water, with the brains and 
 gravy of the pig, some grated bread, barberries, and sugar, 
 thoroughly mixed, and heated over the fire. Or, fill the belly 
 with a pudding made of grated bread, a little minced beef- 
 suet, the yelks of two or three raw eggs, three or four spoon¬ 
 fuls of cream, and a little salt. Sew it up, lay the pig before 
 the fire, and baste it with yelks of eggs beaten thin. A few 
 minutes before you take it up, squeeze over it the juice of a 
 lemon, and strew thereon bread crumbs, pepper, nutmeg, 
 ginger, and salt. Make a sauce with vinegar, butter, and 
 the yelks of hard eggs minced and boiled together, with the 
 gravy of th-e pig. 
 
 
 VENISON. 
 
 To keep Venison. 
 
 Preserve the venison dry, wash it with milk and water very 
 clean, and dry it with clean cloths till not the least damp re¬ 
 mains, then dust pounded ginger over every part, which is a 
 good preventive against the fly. By thus managing and 
 watching, it will hang a fortnight. When to be used, wash 
 it with a little lukewarm water, and dry it. Pepper is by 
 some persons recommended for keeping venison, but others 
 disapprove it, we think with reason, and should greatly prefer 
 laying among it bits of charcoal which indeed we consider to 
 be the most effectual preventive of putridity that has hitherto 
 been discovered. 
 
 To roast a Haunch of Venison. 
 
 If it is of a buck, and of large size, the haunch will take 
 
190 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 four hours, or a smaller one three hours and a quarter, and 
 that of a doe will require a quarter of an hour less. The 
 venison should be rather underdone. Take a large sheet of 
 clean writing paper, butter it, sprinkle it with salt, and place 
 it over the fat; then lay thereon a coarse paste, and with it 
 cover the haunch, which must be set at some distance from 
 the fire. Baste it repeatedly, and ten minutes previous to 
 serving, take off the paper, place the meat nearer the fire, and 
 baste it well with butter and flour to raise a froth. The 
 best gravy for venison is that made from the joint itself; but 
 if not sufficient, stew a scrag or part of a loin of mutton for 
 the purpose, till a quart is reduced to a pint. Season it with 
 salt alone, and serve with currant-jelly sauce in a boat. 
 
 A neck or shoulder of venison may be done in the same 
 way. The gravy for venison should never be put in the 
 dish, but served separately in a boat. 
 
 To boil a Haunch of Venison. 
 
 Let it lie a week in salt, then boil it in a floured cloth, 
 allowing a quarter of an hour for every pound. For sauce, 
 boil in milk and water some cauliflowers pulled into sprigs, 
 with white cabbage, and turnips cut into dice, and beet-root 
 sliced. First lay a sprig of cauliflower and some of the tur¬ 
 nips mashed with cream and butter, next the cabbage that has 
 been beaten in a saucepan with a little butter and salt, then 
 cauliflower, and so on till the dish is full. Intermix the beet¬ 
 root here and there, to variegate the appearance. Serve with 
 melted butter. A neck may be done in the same manner 
 and both will eat well the next day hashed, with gravy and 
 sweet sauce. 
 
 To steio a Shoulder Venison. 
 
 Let it hang some days, then take out the bone, beat the 
 meat with a rolling-pin, lay some slices of mutton fat, that 
 have been previously soaked some hours in port wine, about 
 it; sprinkle a little pepper and allspice pounded over it, roll it 
 up tight, and fasten it securely. Put the meat into a stew- 
 pan that will just hold it, with some weak mutton or beef 
 gravy, half a pint of port, some more pepper and allspice. 
 
VF NISON. 
 
 191 
 
 Cover it close, and let it simmer slowly three or four hours, 
 stewing the bone with it. When done, unbind the meat, 
 place it in a dish, and strain the gravy over it. Serve with 
 sweet sauce. If the shoulder is very fat, it is best roasted as 
 the haunch. 
 
 To hash Venison. 
 
 Slice the meat and warm it through, without boiling, in its 
 own gravy, or in any other that is unseasoned. If there is 
 no fat left from the preceding dinner, that of mutton may be 
 substituted, by setting it over the fire with a little port wine 
 and sugar, and letting it simmer till dry; then put it to the 
 hash, and it will not be distinguishable from the fat of veni¬ 
 son. 
 
 To fry Venison. 
 
 If it is a neck or breast of venison, bone it, but if it be a 
 shoulder, cut off the meat in slices. Make some gravy with 
 the bones, then fry the meat till brown, take it up, and keep 
 it hot before the fire. Put butter and flour in the pan, and 
 keep the whole stirring till thick and brown, taking care that 
 it does not burn. Stir in half a pound of fine sugar powder¬ 
 ed, and put in the gravy produced by the bones, with some 
 port wine. Give the whole the consistence of cream, squeeze 
 thereto the juice of a lemon, warm the venison in it, put it in 
 a dish, and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 To dress a Fawn. 
 
 It should be cooked almost as soon as killed, and when 
 very young, trussed, stuffed, and spitted as a hare. But a 
 fawn is best when of the size of a house lamb, in which case 
 it is roasted in quarters, of which the hind is in most request. 
 Put it to a quick fire, and either baste it continually, or lay 
 over it slices of fat bacon. When done, baste it with butter, 
 and dredge it with salt and flour, to raise a froth. 
 
 The Umbles of Deer. 
 
 Take a deer s kidney with the fat of the heart, season them 
 with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, fry and stew them in gravy 
 
J 92 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 till they are tender, add a little lemon juice, stud the skirts 
 with forcemeat made of the fat of the venison, and fat of 
 bacon, grated bread, pepper, mace, sage, and onion, mixed 
 with the yelk of egg. Tie the stuffed skirts to the spit, and 
 roast them, after strewing over them thyme and lemon-peel. 
 When done, lay them in the middle, and the fricassee round 
 them. 
 
 To marinate Venison. 
 
 Lay a neck of venison in the marinate, prepared by mixing 
 together a glass of wine, a lemon-peel, two bay leaves, two 
 onions cut in slices ; let it remain four hours, then roast or 
 bake it with a crust over; strain, take off the fat, and thicken 
 it with a spoonful of butter and flour, and serve under it. 
 
 To collar Venison. 
 
 Bone a side of venison, take out the sinews, and cut the 
 meat into square collars. Lard it with fat bacon in very 
 small bits; season with pepper, salt, cloves, and nutmeg; 
 then roll it up, and tie it with tape. Put the venison into 
 deep pots, with seasoning at the bottom of each, fresh butter, 
 and three or four bay leaves. Lay the remainder of the sea¬ 
 soning and butter on the top, and,over that, beef or mutton-suet 
 firmly beaten. Cover the pots with coarse paste, and bake them 
 four or five hours. When done, let them stand a little; take 
 the venison out of the pots, and drain it; add more butter to 
 the fat, and set it over a slow fire to clarify. Then take it 
 off, and skim it. Put at the bottom of each pot, a little sea¬ 
 soning and clarified butter; then lay the venison upon it, with 
 butter over all about an inch deep. When a pot is wantec 
 for use, put it into boiling water, and it will come out whole. 
 
 To pot Venison , 
 
 If the meat is stale, rub it with vinegar, and let it lie an 
 hour; dry it with a cloth, and rub it all over with red wine; 
 season with pepper, salt, and mace; then put it in a dish, 
 pour over it half a pint of port, add thereto a pound of butter, 
 and send it to the oven. If it is a shoulder, lay a coarse 
 j aste over it, and bake it all night. When taken out, pick 
 
FOWLS. 
 
 193 
 
 the meat clear from the bones, and beat it in a mortar, with 
 the fat of the gravy. If not seasoned enough, add more, with 
 clarified butter, and beat it to a fine paste ; press it into the 
 pots, and cover it in the common way. 
 
 MADE DISHES OF POULTRY. 
 
 / 
 
 F 0 W L S. 
 
 Fowls boiled with Rice. 
 
 Stew the fowl very slowly in some clear mutton broth well 
 skimmed; and seasoned with onion, mace, pepper, and salt. 
 About half an hour before it is ready, put in a quarter of a 
 pint of rice well washed and soaked. Simmer till tender ; 
 then strain it from the broth, and put the rice on a sieve be¬ 
 fore the fire. Keep the fowl hot, lay it in the middle of the 
 dish, and the rice round it, without the broth. The broth 
 will be very nice to eat as such, but the less liquor the fowl is 
 done with the better. Gravy, or parsley and butter, for 
 sauce. 
 
 To broil Fowls. 
 
 Pick and truss your fowl the same as for boiling, cut it 
 open down the back, wipe the inside clean with a cloth, season 
 it with a little pepper and salt; have a clear fire, and set the 
 gridiron at a good distance over it, lay the ckicken on with 
 the inside towards the fire, (you may egg it, and strew some 
 orated bread over it,) and broil it till it is a fine brown : take 
 care the fleshy side is not burnt. Lay it on a hot dish ; 
 pickled mushrooms, or mushroom sauce, to be thrown over it, 
 or parsley and butter, or melted butter flavoured with mush¬ 
 room catsup. Garnish it with slices of lemon, and the liver 
 
 2 c 
 
194 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 and gizzard, slit and notched, seasoned with pepper and salt, 
 and broiled nicely hrown, and some slices of lemon. 
 
 Another way. Cut a large fowl into four quarters, 
 put them on a bird-spit, and tie it on another spit, and 
 half-roast ; or the whole fowl may be half-roasted: 
 either way, it is to be finished on the gridiron, but is 
 less dry when partly roasted than if wholly broiled. The 
 fowl that is not cut before roasted, must be split down the 
 back after. 
 
 To hash Fowls. 
 
 Cut up your fowl as for eating, then put it into a stew-pan 
 with half a pint of gravy, a tea-spoonful of lemon pickle, a 
 little catsup, and a slice of lemon. Thicken it with flour and 
 butter: and just before you dish it up, put in a spoonful of 
 good cream. Lay sippets in the dish, and pour the hash over 
 them. 
 
 Davenport Fowls. 
 
 Hang young fowls a night; take the livers, hearts, and 
 tenderest parts of the gizzards, shred very small, with half a 
 handful of young clary, an anchovy to each fowl, an onion, 
 and the yelks of four eggs boiled hard, with pepper, salt, and 
 mace, to your taste. Stuff the fowls with this, and sew up 
 the vents and necks quite close, that the water may not get 
 in. Boil them in salt and water till almost done : then drain 
 them, and put them into a stew-pan with butter enough to 
 brown them. Serve them with fine melted butter, and a 
 spoonful of catsup, of either sort, in the dish. 
 
 A nice Way to dress a Fowl for a small Dish. 
 
 Bone, singe, and wash a young fowl: make a forcemeat of 
 four ounces of veal, two ounces of scraped lean of ham, two 
 ounces of fat bacon, two hard yelks of eggs, a few sweet herbs 
 chopped, two ounces of beef-suet, a tea-spoonful oi lemon 
 peel minced quite fine, an anchovy, salt, pepper, and a veiy 
 little cayenne. Beat all in a mortar, with a teacup-ful of 
 crumbs, and the yelks and whites of three eggs. Stuff tin? 
 inside of the fowl, and draw the legs and wings inwards; tit. 
 
FOWLS. 
 
 195 
 
 the neck and rump close. Stew the fowl in a white gravy; 
 when it is done through and tender, add a large cup-ful of 
 cream, and a bit of butter and flour; give it one boil, and 
 serve : the last thing, add the squeeze of a lemon. 
 
 To force Fowls. 
 
 Take a large fowl, pick it clean, draw it, cut it down the 
 back, and take the skin off the whole; cut the flesh from the 
 bones, and chop it with half a pint of oysters, ono ounce of 
 beef marrow, and a little pepper and salt. Mix it up with 
 cieam ; then lay the meat on the bones, draw the skin over it, 
 and sew up the back. Cut large thin slices of bacon, lay 
 them on the breast of your fowl, and tie them on with pack¬ 
 thread in diamonds. It will take an hour roasting by a 
 moderate fire. Make a good brown gravy sauce, pour it into 
 your dish, take the bacon off, lay in your fowl, and serve it 
 up. Garnish with pickles, mushrooms, or oysters. It is 
 proper for a side-dish at dinner, or top-dish for supper. 
 
 Another way. Having cleaned and boned the fowl, stuff the 
 inside with the following forcemeat,—a quarter pound of minced 
 veal, two ounces of grated ham, two of chopped onion and suet, 
 a spoonful of shred sweet herbs, two chopped hard velks of 
 G SS S > a tea-spoonful of minced lemon peel, mixed spices, and a 
 little cayenne. Let the several ingredients be very finely shred. 
 Beat the whole to a paste in a mortar, adding two eggs to 
 make them cohere. Stuff the fowl, sew it up, keeping it of 
 a natural shape, draw in the legs and truss the wings. Stew 
 it m white clear broth, and when nearly done thicken the 
 sauce with butter rolled in flour. When just ready to serve 
 add a little cream, squeeze a lemon into the dish, and serve 
 the fowl with the sauce around it. 
 
 To braise Fowls. 
 
 Truss your fowl as for boiling, with the legs in the body; 
 then lay over it a layer of fat bacon cut in thin slices, wrap it 
 round in beet leaves, then in a caul of veal, and put it into a 
 large saucepan with three pints of water, a glass of Madeira 
 wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three blades of mace, 
 and half a lemon; stew it till it is quite tender, then take it 
 
196 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 up and skim off the fat; make your gravy pretty thick with 
 flour and butter, strain it through a hair sieve, and put to it 
 a pint of oysters and a teacup-ful of thick cream ; keep shak¬ 
 ing your pan over the fire, and when it has simmered a short 
 time, serve up your fowl with the bacon, beet leaves, and caul 
 on, and pour your sauce hot upon it. Garnish with barber¬ 
 ries and red beet root. 
 
 Another way. Bone them, and stuff them with forcemeat. 
 Fry a few sliced onions in a stew-pan; add to these the bones 
 and other trimmings of the chickens, with a broken shank of 
 veal or mutton, a faggot of herbs, a few blades of mace, and a 
 pint of good broth. Cover the chickens with slices of baco i, 
 and then with veal caul or paper. Wrap a cloth about the 
 lid of the stew-pan, and stew very slowly over embers or on a 
 stove for an hour and a half. Take them up and keep them 
 hot in an oven. Strain the braise gravy, and boil it up 
 quickly to a jelly. Glaze the chickens with it, and serve with 
 a brown fricassee of mushrooms. 
 
 To boil Chickens. 
 
 After you have drawn them, lay them in skimmed milk for 
 two hours, and truss them. When you have properly singed 
 and dusted them with flour, cover them close in cold water, 
 and set them over a slow fire. Having taken off the scum, 
 and boiled them slowly five or six minutes, take them off the 
 fire, and keep them close covered for half an hour in the water, 
 which will do them sufficiently, and make them plump and 
 white. Before you dish them, set them on the fire to heat; 
 then drain them, and pour over them white sauce, which you 
 must have made ready in the following manner : 
 
 * o 
 
 Take the heads and necks of the chickens, with a small 
 bit of scrag of veal, or any scraps of mutton you may have by 
 you, and put them into a saucepan, with a blade or two of 
 mace, a few black pepper-corns, an anchovy, a head of 
 celery, a slice of the end of a lemon, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs. Put to these a quart of water, cover it close, and let 
 it boil till it is reduced to half a pint. Then strain it, and 
 thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter mixed with 
 flour, and boil it five or six minutes. Then put in tw< 
 
FOWLS. 
 
 197 
 
 spoonfuls of mushrooms, and mix the yelks of two egg3 with a 
 teacup-ful of cream, and a little nutmeg grated. Put in 
 your sauce, and keep shaking it over the fire till it is near 
 boiling; then pour it into your boats, and serve it up with 
 your chickens. 
 
 To broil Chickens . 
 
 Split your chickens down the back, season them with pep¬ 
 per and salt, and lay them on the gridiron over a clear fire, 
 and at a great distance. Let the inside continue next the 
 fire till they are nearly half done; then turn them, taking cart 
 that the fleshy sides do not burn, and let them broil till they 
 are of a fine brown. Have ready good gravy sauce, with 
 some mushrooms, and garnish them with lemon and the livers 
 broiled ; the gizzards cut, slashed, and broiled, with pepper 
 and salt. 
 
 To fry Chickens . 
 
 Cut your chickens into quarters, and rub them with the yelk 
 of an egg; then strew on them some crumbs of bread, with pep¬ 
 per, salt, grated nutmeg, and lemon-peel, and chopped parsley. 
 Fry them in butter, and when done, put them into your dish 
 before the fire. For sauce, thicken some gravy with a little 
 flour, and put into it a small quantity of cayenne pepper, 
 some mushroom powder or catsup, and a little lemon juice. 
 When it is properly heated, pour it over the chickens, and 
 serve it up. 
 
 To stew Chickens. 
 
 Half-boil them in as much water as will just cover them, 
 then take them out, cut them up, and take out the breast 
 bones. Put them into your stew-pan with the liquor, and 
 add a blade of mace, and a little salt. Cover the pan close, 
 and set it over a slow fire. Let it stew till the chickens are 
 enough, then put the whole into your dish, and serve it to 
 table. 
 
 To hash Chickens . 
 
 Cut a cold chicken into pieces, and if you have no gravy, 
 
198 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 make a little with the long bones, onion, spice, &c. Flour 
 the chicken, and put into the gravy, with white pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg, and grated lemon. When it boils, stir in an egg, 
 and mix it with a little cream. As soon as it is thoroughly 
 hot, squeeze in a little lemon juice, then put the whole into a 
 dish, strew over it some crumbs of bread, brown them with * 
 salamander, and then serve it up hot to table. 
 
 To fricassee Chickens. 
 
 Boil a quarter of an hour in a small quantity of water; 
 let them cool; then cut up; and put to simmer Ln a little 
 gravy made of the liquor they are boiled in, and a bit of 
 veal or mutton, onion, mace, and lemon-peel, some white 
 pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. When quite tender, 
 keep them hot while you thicken the sauce in the following 
 manner: strain it off, and put it back into the saucepan with a 
 little salt, a scrape of nutmeg, and a bit of flour and butter; 
 give it one boil: and when you are going to serve, beat up 
 the yelk of an egg, add half a pint of cream, and stir them 
 over the fire, but do not let it boil. It is often done without 
 the eo'ff. 
 
 OO 
 
 The gravy may be made (without any other meat) of the 
 necks, feet, small wing-bones, gizzards, and livers; which are 
 called the trimmings of the fowls. 
 
 o 
 
 To fricassee Chickens white . 
 
 Cut up each chicken into eight parts, as in carving them at 
 table. Wash, dry, flatten, and season them with mixed 
 spices, using only white pepper. Dip the pieces in egg, and 
 brown them lightly in fresh butter. Take a pint of clear 
 veal or mutton gravy, or other good clear stock, and put to it 
 a roll of lemon-peel, two onions, three blades of mace, and a 
 few sweet herbs, Stew the browned chicken in this very 
 slowly for half an hour, keeping the stew-pan covered. Strain 
 the sauce, and thicken it with butter rolled in. flour, salt, and 
 a scrape of nutmeg. When ready to be served add a quarter 
 of a pint of good cream, and the yelk of one or two eggs well 
 beat. Mix this very carefully lest it curdle, and be sure i 4 
 
FOWLS. 
 
 199 
 
 does not boil. A glass of white wine, and the squeeze of a 
 lemon may be put to the fricassee. 
 
 To pull Chickens. 
 
 Take off the skin, and pull the flesh off the bone of a cold 
 fowl, in as large pieces as you can ; dredge it with flour, and 
 fry it of a nice brown in butter. Drain the butter from it ; 
 and then simmer the flesh in a good gravy, well seasoned, and 
 thickened with a little flour and butter. Add the juice of 
 half a lemon. 
 
 Another way. Cut off the legs and the whole back of a 
 dressed chicken ; if underdone the better. Pull all the white 
 part into little flakes free from skin ; toss it up with a little cream 
 thickened with a piece of butter mixed with flour, half a blade 
 of mace in powder, white pepper, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. 
 Cut off the neck end of the chicken ; and broil the back and 
 sidesmen in one piece, and the two legs seasoned. Put the 
 hash in the middle, with the back on it, and the two legs at 
 the end. 
 
 Another way. Skin them, and pull the meat off the breast 
 and wings in large long flakes. Brown these in a Dutch 
 oven, basting with butter, or very quickly in a frying-pan, so 
 as not to dry the meat. Drain from the butter, and simmer 
 the pulled meat in good gravy, seasoned with mixed spices. 
 Thicken the sauce. Meanwhile cut off the legs, sidesmen, 
 and back. Season and broil these, and serving the pulled 
 hash in the middle of the dish, place these over and around it. 
 Garnish with fried sippets. Turkey may be warmed as above, 
 but the leg should be scored, seasoned, and grilled, and the 
 hash served around it. 
 
 Chicken Currie. 
 
 Cut up the chickens raw, slice onions, and fry both in but¬ 
 ter with great care, of a fine light brown; or if you use chick¬ 
 ens that have been dressed, fry only the onions. Lay the 
 joints, cut into two or three pieces each, into a stew-pan, with 
 a veal or mutton gravy, and a clove or two of garlic. Sim¬ 
 mer till the chicken is quite tender. Half an hour before 
 you serve it, rub smooth a spoonful or two of currie powder, a 
 
200 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 spoonful of flour, and an ounce ol butter; and add this, with 
 four large spoonfuls of cream, to the stew. Salt to your taste. 
 When serving, squeeze in a little lemon. 
 
 Slices of underdone veal, or rabbit, turkey, &c. make ex¬ 
 cellent currie. 
 
 Another way. Cut a fowl or rabbit in joints, pour over it 
 a pint of good cream, and the juice of a large lemon, three 
 large onions cut in slices, and fried in butter till tender; fry 
 a spoonful of tumeric powder in butter until the froth is gone; 
 then put all together in a stew-pan, with two spoonfuls of good 
 gravy, and let it boil till done; season with cayenne pepper and 
 salt, and serve it in the middle of rice thus prepared. Boil 
 half a pound of rice in four quarts of water twelve minutes ; 
 strain and wash it; when boiled, put it on a sieve to dry, in a 
 warm place; toss it up with two forks frequently, to make it 
 light. It is necessary to let the fowl remain in the cream 
 and lemon an hour before using it. 
 
 N. B. Lobster, chicken, meat, or fish, may be curried the 
 
 same way. 
 
 Another, more easily made. Cut up a chicken or young 
 rabbit; if chick »n, take off the skin. Roll each piece in a 
 mixture of a large spoonful of flour, and half an ounce of 
 currie powder. Slice two or three onions; and fry them in 
 butter, of a light brown; then add the meat, and fry all to¬ 
 gether till the meat begins to brown. Put it all into a stew- 
 pan, and pour boiling water enough just to cover it. Simmer 
 very gently two or three hours. If too thick, put more water 
 half an hour before serving. 
 
 If the meat has been dressed before, a little broth will be 
 better than water: but the currie is richer when made ot fresh 
 meat. 
 
 To braise Chickens. 
 
 Bone them, and fill them with forcemeat. Lay the bones, 
 and any other poultry trimmings, into a stew-pan, and the 
 chickens on them. Put to them a few onions, a faggot of 
 herbs, three blades of mace, a pint of stock, and a glass or 
 two of sherry. Cover the chickens with slices of bacon, and 
 then white paper; cover the whole close, and put them on a 
 
FOWLS. 
 
 SOI 
 
 alow stove for two hours. Then take them up, strain the 
 braise, and skim off the fat carefully; set it on to boil vcrv 
 quick to a glaze, and do the chickens over with it with a 
 brush. 
 
 Serve with a brown fricassee of mushrooms. Before glaz¬ 
 ing, put the chicken into an oven for a few minutes, to give a 
 little colour. 
 
 Fowl with Mushrooms. 
 
 Stew a fowl (either whole or cut up,) in very rich gravy 
 seasoned with salt, pepper, onion, and mace. When nearly 
 done, add butter rolled in flour, and half a pint of button 
 mushrooms carefully cleaned : let it simmer nearly half an 
 hour longer; and serve with mushroom sauce or a white fri 
 cassee of mushrooms. 
 
 Chickens Chiringrate. 
 
 Flatten the breast-bones of two chickens with a rolling pin, 
 taking care not to break the skin. Flour, and fry them in 
 butter till they are brown, and then drain off the fat. Lay a 
 pound of gravy beef, and as much veal cut into slices, over 
 the chickens, with some mace, cloves, whole pepper, an onion, 
 sweet herbs, and a slice of carrot. Pour in a quart of boiling 
 water, cover the pan close, and let it stew a quarter of an 
 hour. Take out the chickens, and keep them hot; boil the 
 gravy till it is rich, strain it off, and return it to the pan, with 
 two spoonfuls of port wine, and mushrooms. Serve them 
 hot, with the sauce, and some ham. 
 
 Chickens stewed with Vegetables. 
 
 Chickens may be stewed with peas and lettuce in good broth, 
 seasoned with parsley, young onions, salt and spices. If large 
 fowls, they may be cut down the back. Young chickens 
 may be trussed as for boiling, and stuffed. Put in the peas 
 and cut lettuce, a quarter of an hour after the chickens. Fill 
 up the dish with the gravy, laying the peas and lettuce over 
 the chickens. 
 
 2 D 
 
202 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Fillets of Fowls larded. 
 
 Cut the fillets off the breast with the wing, lard them a/1 
 over; braise them half an hour; glaze, and serve them with 
 mushroom, peas, or asparagus sauce. 
 
 
 TURKIES 
 
 May be prepared in most or all of the above ways, to which 
 the following may be added. 
 
 Roast Turkey , larded. 
 
 Lard the breast of a turkey all over; stuff it with veal force¬ 
 meat thus prepared : Scrape a pound of veal and half a pound 
 of fat bacon; pound it fine in a mortar, add the crumb of a 
 French roll, mace ajid nutmeg one drachm each, a table-spoon¬ 
 ful of chopped onions, parsley, and mushroom, with peppr 
 and salt; mix all these together, with two whole eggs, and 
 rub it through a sieve. Roast the turkey, and serve with a 
 mushroom or ragout sauce under it. If served with the 
 Spanish sauce, it is called Dindon a PEspagnol. (See Sauces.) 
 
 Turkey with Truffles. 
 
 Put two dozen of truffles in the forcemeat; fill the breast 
 of the turkey with it, and let it remain in the turkey a week 
 before using. Roast it, and serve truffle sauce under it. 
 
 N. B. Pheasant may be done the same way. 
 
 Pulled Turkey. 
 
 Skin a cold turkey; take off the fillets from the breast, 
 and put them into a stew-pan with the rest of the white meat 
 and wings, side bones, and merry-thought, with a pint of 
 broth, a large blale of mace pounded, a shalot minced fine, 
 the juice of half a lemon and a roll of the peel, some salt, 
 
TURKIES. 
 
 203 
 
 and a few grains of cayenne; thicken it with flour and butter, 
 and let it simmer for two or three minutes till the meat is 
 warm. In the meantime score the legs and rump, powder 
 them with pepper and salt, broil them nicely brown, and lay 
 them on, or round your pulled turkey. Three table-spoon¬ 
 fuls oi good cream, or the yelks of as many eggs, will be a 
 great improvement to it. 
 
 To stew Turkey. 
 
 Take a fine turkey, bone it, and put into the carcase a 
 ragout composed of large livers, mushrooms, and streaked 
 bacon, all cut in small dice, and mingled with salt, fine spices, 
 and shred parsley and or ions. Sew the turkey up, but take 
 care to shape it nicely; then put a thin slice of bacon upon 
 the breast, and wrap it in a cloth. Stew it in a pot, but not 
 too large a one, with good broth, a glass of white wine, and a 
 bunch of sweet herbs; when it is done, strain the liquor the 
 turkey was done in into a stew-pan, after having taken off the 
 fat; reduce it to a sauce, adding a spoonful of coulis; then 
 unwrap your turkey, take oft the bacon, dry away the grease, 
 and serve it up with the sauce. 
 
 To hash Turkey. 
 
 Cut the flesh into pieces, and take off* all the skin, other¬ 
 wise it will give the gravy a greasy disagreeable taste. Put 
 it into a stew-pan with a pint of gravy, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon pickle, a slice of the end of a lemon, and a little beaten 
 mace. Let it boil about six or seven minutes, and then put 
 it into your dish. Thicken your gravy with flour and butter, 
 mix the yelks of two eggs with a spoonful of thick cream, put 
 it into your gravy, and skake it over the fire till it is quite hot, 
 but do not let it boil; then strain it, and pour it over your 
 turkey. Lay sippets round, serve it up, and garnish with 
 lemon and parsley. 
 
 To rewarm Turkey, Goose, Fowl, Duck, Pigeon, or 
 
 Rabbit. 
 
 Cut them into quarters, beat up an egg or two (according 
 
2 04 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 to the quantity you dress) with a little grated nutmeg, and 
 pepper and salt, some parsley minced fine, and a few crumbs 
 of bread; mix these well together, and cover the fowl, &c. 
 with this batter; broil them, or put them into a dutch oven, or 
 have ready some dripping hot in a pan, in which fry them a 
 light brown colour; thicken a little gravy with some flour, put 
 a large spoonful of catsup to it, lay the fry in a dish, and pour 
 the sauce round it. You may garnish with slices of lemon 
 and toasted bread. 
 
 Blanquet of Turkey. 
 
 Cut the breast of a turkey that has been dressed in thin 
 slices; lay them in a dish; boil half a pint of white sauce, 
 thickened with what is called a liason ; season with salt, and 
 with the squeeze of half a lemon ; pour it over the turkey, 
 quite hot. 
 
 Turkey in Jelly. 
 
 Take the bones out of the turkey; stuff it with forcemeat 
 made as for roast turkey; put two dozen truffles and two dozen of 
 mushrooms in it; lard it through with fat bacon, and tie it up 
 in the shape; put it in a pan just large enough to hold it, with 
 braize, and two quarts of strong gravy; stew it three hours, 
 til! tender enough to pass a skewer through it easily; let it 
 get cold; take off the fat; serve it in a dish with a jelly 
 round, and slices of lemon. 
 
 N. B. It may be done without boning the turkey. A 
 targe fowl may be done the same way. 
 
 **?4 4*9? f 0. w + Q 
 
 DUCKS. 
 
 To boil Ducks. 
 
 When you have scalded and drawn vour ducks, let them 
 remain a few minutes in warm water, then take them out, put 
 
DUCKS. 
 
 205 
 
 them into an earthen pan, and pour a pint of boiling milk over 
 them. Let them lie in it two or three hours, and when you 
 take them out, dredge them well with flour; put them into 
 cold water, and cover them up. Having boiled slowly about 
 twenty minutes, take them out, and smother them with onion 
 sauce. 
 
 To stew Ducks. 
 
 Half-roast a duck; put it into a stew-pan with a pint of 
 beef gravy, a few leaves of sage and mint cut small, pepper 
 and salt, and a small bit of onion shred as fine as possible. 
 Simmer a quarter of an hour, and skim clean; then add near 
 a quart of green peas. Cover close, and simmer near half an 
 hour longer. Put in a piece of butter and a little flour, and 
 give it one boil; then serve in one dish. 
 
 Another way. Take a couple of ducks, pick, draw, and 
 dust them with flour, after which set them before the fire to 
 brown. Put them into a stew-pan, with one quart of water, 
 a pint of port wine, a spoonful of walnut catsup, as much 
 browning, one anchovy, half a lemon, a clove of garlic, some 
 sweet herbs, cayenne pepper, and salt. Stew them till tender, 
 then lay them on a dish, skim the fat from the liquor, strain 
 it through a sieve, add a few morels and truffles, boil it till 
 reduced to half a pint, pour it over the ducks, and serve 
 them up. 
 
 Another way. Clean and season the ducks with pepper 
 and salt inside. Par-roast them, and stew them in beef 
 gravy, with shred onions fried in the stew-pan before the 
 gravy is put in. When the ducks have simmered for twenty 
 minutes and been turned, put in a few leaves of sage and of 
 lemon thyme chopped very fine, or in the season a pint and a 
 half of young green peas. When these are tender thicken 
 the sauce with butter rolled in flour, and serve the ducks and 
 peas together in a deep dish. When peas are not in season, 
 a dozen or two of button onions may be par-roasted and stewed 
 with the ducks, or sliced cucumbers and onions first fried. 
 
 To stew a Duck with Green Peas. 
 
 Parboil a duck, then put it into a stew-pan, with a pint of 
 
206 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 gravy, some mint, and three or four leaves of sage cut small. 
 Cover the pan, and stew for half an hour. Thicken the 
 gravy, and put in half a pint of green peas ready boiled; dish 
 up the duck and peas together. 
 
 Another way. Put into your stew-pan a piece of fresh 
 butter, and set it on the fire ; then put in your duck, and turn 
 it in the pan two or three minutes: take out the fat, but let 
 the duck remain. Put to it a pint of good gravy, a pint of 
 peas, two lettuces cut small, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Cover them close, and let them stew 
 for half an hour, now and then shaking the pan. When 
 they are just done, grate in a little nutmeg, with a small quan¬ 
 tity of beaten mace, and thicken it either with a piece of but¬ 
 ter rolled in flour, or the yelk of an egg beat up with two or 
 three spoonfuls of cream. Shake it all together for two or 
 three minutes, then take out the sweet herbs, lay the duck in 
 the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with boiled 
 mint chopped very fine. 
 
 To ragout Ducks. 
 
 Put the gizzards, livers, necks, &c. to a pint of good strong 
 beef broth, or other well seasoned good stock. Season the 
 ducks inside with salt and mixed spices. Brown them on all 
 sides in a frying-pan, and then stew them till tender in the 
 strained stock. When nearly ready thicken the sauce with 
 browned flour and butter. 
 
 To hash Ducks. 
 
 Cut them into pieces as in carving at table, and soak them by 
 the side of the fire in boiling gravy till thoroughly hot. Add 
 a glass of wine and a sufficient quantity of mixed spices, to 
 give the sauce a high relish; or cut up the ducks, and make a 
 gravy of the trimmings and some onions. Thicken it when 
 strained with butter browned with flour. Stew the cut ducks 
 gently till ready, and having seasoned the sauce, serve the 
 hash on fried sippets. 
 
 Ducks a-la Frangoise. 
 
 Put two dozen of peeled chesnuis into a pint of gravy, with 
 
DUCKS 
 
 sjor 
 
 a few leaves of thyme, two onions, a little whole pepper, and 
 some ginger. Lard a duck, and half roast it; then put it 
 into the gravy, stew it ten minutes, and add thereto a pint of 
 port. When done, take it out, boil the gravy till it is thick, 
 skim it clean, lay the duck in the dish, pour the sauce over 
 it, and send it to table garnished with lemon. 
 
 Ducks d-la-Braise. 
 
 Dress, singe, and lard a couple of ducks, with bacon, 
 rolled in parsley, onions, beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt 
 Lay some slices of fat bacon at the bottom of a stew-pan, as 
 much ham or gammon, and two or three slices of veal or beef; 
 put in the ducks, with their breasts downwards ; cover them 
 with slices of meat as before, cut a carrot, a turnip, an onion, 
 and a head of celery; add thereto a blade of mace, four or 
 five cloves, and some whole pepper. Cover the whole close, 
 and simmer over a gentle fire, till the breasts of the ducks are 
 of a light brown ; then put in some water, and let them re¬ 
 main till done. Next chop fine parsley, an onion or shalot, 
 two anchovies, gherkins, and capers, put them into a stew-pan, 
 with some of the liquor from the ducks, a little browning, and 
 the juice of half a lemon. Boil it, cut the ends of the bacon 
 even with the breasts of the ducks, lay them on a dish, pour 
 the sauce over them, and serve them hot. 
 
 Ducks d-la-Mode. 
 
 Quarter two ducks, and fry them of a light brown, pour 
 off the fat, flour them, put in half a pint of gravy, a quarter 
 of a pint of port wine, an anchovy, two shalots, and some 
 sweet herbs; cover, and stew them a quarter of an hour ; then 
 take out the herbs, skim off the fat, and thicken the gravy 
 with butter and flour. Serve the ducks in the sauce, garnish¬ 
 ed as above. 
 
208 
 
 COMPOUND COOKEUY 
 
 GEESE. 
 
 To boil a Goose. 
 
 After singeing, pour over the goose a quart of boiling 
 milk, and let it stay therein all night. On taking it out, drv 
 it with a cloth. Cut an nion small, with some sage, stuff 
 the goose, sew up the neck and vent, and hang it up by the 
 legs till the following day; then put it into a pot of cold 
 water, covered close, and boil gently for an hour. Serve with 
 onion sauce. In some parts of Devonshire, they parboil the 
 goose in a cloth, and having wiped it dry, put it upon a spit, 
 and complete the cookery by roasting in the ordinary way, 
 though the latter process does not take up above half the 
 time. 
 
 To ragout a Goose. 
 
 Take off the skin, and plunge the goose into boiling water ; 
 then break the breast-bone, season it with pepper, salt, and a little 
 pounded mace; lard, and flour it all over. Next lay a pound 
 of beef-suet into a stew-pan, and when it boils, put the goose 
 therein. As soon as it is brown, pour in a quart of beef 
 gravy boiling hot, some sweet herbs, a blade of mace, a few 
 cloves, some whole pepper, two or three small onions, and a 
 bay leaf. Cover the pan close, and stew gently over a slow 
 fire. A small goose will take an hour, but a large one an 
 hour and a half. For the ragout, boil some turnips and car¬ 
 rots cut small, with three or four sliced onions; then put 
 ti’em, with half a pint of beef gravy, into a saucepan, add 
 some pepper, salt, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Let 
 them stew about a quarter of an hour. When the goose is 
 done, take it out, drain off the liquor, put it into a dish, and 
 pour the ragout over it. 
 
 Goose a-la-Mode. 
 
 Skin and bone a goose, boil and peel a tongue, do the 
 
GEESE 
 
 309 
 
 same with a fowl, and season it with pepper, salt, and mace, 
 after which roll it round the tongue. Season the goose also, 
 and lay the fowl and tongue on it, with slices of ham between 
 both. Beef marrow intermixed will be a great improvement 
 Put the whole into a stew-pan, with two quarts of beef gravy, 
 the bones of the goose and fowl, sweet herbs, and an onion. 
 Cover the pan close, and stew it an hour gently. When you 
 take up the goose, skim off the fat, and strain it; then put in 
 a glass of port wine, two spoonfuls of catsup, a sweetbread 
 cut small, some truffles, mushrooms, and morels, a lump of 
 butter rolled in flour, pepper, and salt. Stew the goose half 
 an hour longer; then take it up, pour the ragout over it, and 
 send it to table garnished with lemon. 
 
 Goose marinaded. 
 
 Bone, and stuff the goose with the following forcemeat:— 
 take ten or twelve sage leaves, two large onions, and three 
 apples, chop them fine, and mix them with bread crumbs, 
 four ounces of beef marrow, one glass of port wine, half a 
 nutmeg grated, pepper, salt, and lemon-peel, shreded small, 
 and the yelks of four eggs. Having stuffed the goose, sew 
 it up, and fry it till it is of a light brown; then put it into a 
 stew-pan, with two quarts of gravy. Cover the pan close, 
 and let it stew two hours ; then take the goose out, and keep 
 it hot. Take off the fat from the gravy, and put into it a 
 spoonful each, of lemon pickle, browning, and port wine, an 
 anchovy cut small, beaten mace, pepper, and salt. Thicken 
 with flour and butter, strain the gravy over the goose, and 
 serve it up. 
 
 Legs and Wings of Geese as dressed in Languedoc. 
 
 Take the legs and wings of five geese, with as much flesh 
 as possible. Bone the legs, mix half an ounce of saltpetre, 
 with some fine salt, and rub the joints well with it; then put 
 them into an earthen pan, with bay, thyme, and basil, cover 
 them close, and leave them four hours. When taken out, 
 put them into fresh water, and then let them drain. In the 
 mean time, collect all the fat from the bodies and intestines, 
 and having melted it like lard, put the geese therein to stew 
 
 2 E 
 
210 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 till tender. Take them out, and when cold, pack them in 
 jars, with the fat poured over them. 
 
 To hash a dressed Goose. 
 
 Having cut an onion into small dice, put it into a stew-pan, 
 with a little butter; fry it, but without letting it become brown 
 add thereto as much boiling water as will make sauce for the 
 hash, thicken it with flour, cut up the goose, and put it into 
 the sauce, but do not let it boil; season it with pepper, salt, 
 and catsup. The legs of geese broiled, and served with apple 
 sauce, form a good supper or luncheon. 
 
 
 PIGEONS. 
 
 To boil Pigeons. 
 
 When you draw your pigeons, be careful to take out the 
 craw as clean as possible. Wash them in several waters, and 
 having cut off the pinions, turn their legs under their wings. 
 Let them boil very slowly a quarter of an hour, and they will 
 be sufficiently done. Dish them up, and pour over them 
 good melted butter; lay round the dish a little brocoli, and 
 serve them up with melted butter and parsley in boats. They 
 should be boiled by themselves, and may be eaten with bacon, 
 greens, spinach, or asparagus. 
 
 To broil Pigeons. 
 
 When the pigeons are trussed as for boiling, flat them with 
 a cleaver, taking care not to break the skin of the backs, or 
 breasts; season them with pepper and salt, a little bit of but¬ 
 ter, and a tea-spoonful of water, and tie them close at both 
 ends; so when they are brought to table, they bring their 
 sauce with them. Egg and dredge them well with grated 
 
PIGEONS. 
 
 211 
 
 bread, (mixed with spice and sweet herbs, if you please,) then 
 lay them on the gridiron, and turn them frequently: if your 
 fire is not very clear, lav them on a sheet of paper well but¬ 
 tered, to keep them from getting smoked. They are much 
 better broiled whole: when they are done, pour over them 
 either stewed or pickled mushrooms, or catsup and melted 
 butter. 
 
 Garnish with fried bread crumbs, or sippets. 
 
 To stew Pigeons. 
 
 Take care that they are quite fresh, and carefully cropped, 
 drawn, and washed; then soak them half an hour. In the 
 mean time, cut a hard white cabbage in slices (as if for pick- 
 lino - ') into water: drain it, and then boil it in milk and water; 
 drain it again, and lay some of it at the bottom of a stew-pan. 
 Put the pigeons upon it, but first season them well with pep¬ 
 per and salt; and cover them with the remainder of the cab¬ 
 bage. Add a little broth, and stew gently till the pigeons are 
 tender; then put among them two or three spoonfuls of cream, 
 and a piece of butter and flour, for thickening. After a boil 
 or two, serve the birds in the middle, and the cabbage placed 
 round them. 
 
 Pigeons in a Hole. 
 
 Pick, draw, and wash four young pigeons, stick their legs 
 in their bellies as you do boiled pigeons, and season them 
 with pepper, salt, and beaten mace. Put into the belly of 
 each pigeon a lump of butter the size of a walnut. Lay 
 your pigeons in a pie dish, pour over them a batter made of 
 three eggs, two spoonfuls of flour, and half a pint of good 
 milk. Bake them in a moderate oven, and serve them to 
 table in the same dish. 
 
 To jug Pigeons. 
 
 Pluck and draw six pigeons, wash them clean, and dry 
 them with a cloth; season them with beaten mace, white pep¬ 
 per, and salt. Put them into a jug with half a pound of but¬ 
 ter upon them. Stop up the jug close with a cloth, that no 
 steam can get out; then set on a kettle of boiling water, and 
 
212 
 
 COMPOUND COOKKRy. 
 
 let it boil an hour and a half. Then take out your pigeons) 
 put the gravy that is come from them into a pan, and add t( 
 it a spoonful of wine, one of catsup, a slice of lemon, half an 
 anchovy chopped, and a bundle of sweet herbs. Boil a little, 
 and then thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour : lay 
 the pigeons in the dish, and strain your gravy over them. 
 Garnish with parsley and red cabbage.—This makes a very 
 pretty side or corner dish. 
 
 To pot Pigeons. 
 
 Let them be quite fresh ; clean them carefully, and season 
 them with salt and pepper : lay them close in a small deep 
 pan; for the smaller the surface, and the closer they are pack¬ 
 ed, the less butter will be wanted. Cover them with butter, 
 then with very thick paper tied down, and bake them. When 
 cold, put them dry into pots that will hold two or three in 
 each; and pour butter over them, using that which was baked 
 as part. Observe that the butter should be pretty thick over 
 them, if they are to be kept. If pigeons weie boned, and 
 then put in an oval form into the pot, they would lie closer, 
 and require less butter. They may be stuffed with a fine 
 forcemeat made with veal, bacon, &c. and then they will eat 
 excellently. If a high flavour is approved of, add mace, 
 allspice, and a little cayenne, before baking. 
 
 To pickle Pigeons. 
 
 Bone them ; turn the inside out, and lard it. Season with 
 a little allspice and salt, in fine powder; then turn them again, 
 and tie the neck and rump with thread. Put them into boil¬ 
 ing water: let them boil a minute or two to plump : take 
 them out, and dry them well: then put them boiling hot into 
 the pickle, which must be made of equal quantities of white 
 wine and white wine vinegar, with white pepper and allspice, 
 sliced ginger and nutmeg, and two or three bay leaves. 
 When it boils up, put the pigeons in. If they are small, a 
 quarter of an hour will do them ; but they will take twenty 
 minutes if large. Then take them out, wipe them, and let 
 them cool. When the pickle is cold, take the fat off from it. 
 
nc±EON8. 
 
 213 
 
 and put them in again. Keep them in a stone jar, tied down 
 with a bladder to keep out the air. 
 
 Instead of larding, put into some a stuffing made of hard 
 yelks of eggs and marrow, in equal quantities, with sweet 
 herbs, pepper, salt, and sauce. 
 
 Pigeons in Jelly. 
 
 Save some of the liquor in which a knuckle of veal has 
 been boiled; or boil a calf’s or a neat’s foot; put the broth 
 into a pan with a blade of mace, a bunch of sweet herbs, some 
 white pepper, lemon peel, a slice of lean bacon, and the 
 pigeons. Bake them, and let them stand to be cold. Sea¬ 
 son them as you like, before baking. When done, take them 
 out of the liquor, cover them close to preserve the colour, and 
 clear the jelly by boiling with the whites of two eggs; then 
 strain it through a thick cloth dipped in boiling water, and 
 put into a sieve. The fat must be perfectly removed, before 
 it be cleared. Put the jelly over and round them rough. 
 
 The same , a beautiful Dish. 
 
 Pick two very nice pigeons; and make them look as well 
 as possible by singeing, washing, and cleaning the heads well. 
 Leave the heads and the feet on, but the nails must be clip¬ 
 ped close to the claws. Roast them of a very nice brown ; 
 and when done put a little sprig of myrtle into the bill of 
 each. Have ready a savoury jelly, as before, and with it half¬ 
 fill a bowl of such a size as shall be proper to turn down on 
 the dish you mean it to be served in. When the jelly and 
 the birds are cold, see that no gravy hangs to the birds, and 
 then lay them upside down in the jelly. Before the rest of 
 it begins to set, pour it over the birds, so as to be three inches 
 above the feet. TL Lis should be done full twenty-four hours 
 before serving. 
 
 This dish has a very handsome appearance in "the middle 
 range of a second course; or, when served with the jelly 
 joughed large, it makes a side or corner dish, its size being 
 less. Phe head should be kept up as if alive, by tying the 
 neck with some thread, and the legs bent as if the pigeon sat 
 upon them. 
 
214 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 A Compot of Pigeons. 
 
 Having trussed six pigeons as for boiling, make the follow¬ 
 ing forcemeat:—Grate the crumb of a penny loaf, scrape a 
 quarter of a pound of the fat of bacon or lard, chop some 
 parsley, thyme, lemon-peel, and two shalots, or a small onion; 
 next grate a little nutmeg, season with pepper and salt, and 
 mix the whole with eggs. Fill the craws with this, lard the 
 breasts, and fry them brown. Then lay them in a stew-pan, 
 with gravy, and a glass of wine, and add thereto some butter 
 and flour. Serve the pigeons hot, with the gravy strewed 
 over them, and forcemeat balls in the dish. 
 
 Another way. Fill six pigeons with forcemeat; blanch; 
 put them on with half a pint of gravy, one onion, two dozen 
 of mushrooms, one slice of lemon, four cloves, and cover with 
 slices of fat bacon ; let them stew till tender; strain the gravy, 
 take off the fat, and thicken with a spoonful of thickening, 
 and put one dozen of forcemeat balls boiled, four hard yelks 
 of eggs, and the mushrooms ; season with salt and pepper, the 
 squeeze of a lemon, and serve all together, 
 
 Pigeons a-la-Crapaudine. 
 
 Truss three pigeons as before, cut the flesh off the breast, 
 by sliding the knife at the side of the leg, and running it up 
 to the joint of the wing, turn the breast over, and flatten it; 
 then take a stew-pan, melt a little butter in it, adding thereto 
 some salt and pepper; put in the pigeons, with the breasts 
 downwards, turn them, and when three parts done, lay them 
 on a gridiron over a slow fire; give them a fine colour, and 
 serve them up with common sauce. 
 
 Pigeons a-la-Daube. 
 
 Put a layer of bacon in a saucepan, then one of veal, an¬ 
 other of coarse beef, and again a layer of veal; add to these 
 some sweet herbs, an onion, black and white pepper, mace, 
 and cloves. Cover the pan close, and brown the pigeons 
 over a slow fire. Put in a quart of boiling water, and when 
 stewed till the gravy is rich, skim off the fat, and strain it. 
 Beat a pound of veal, and as much beef-suet in a mortar. 
 
PIGEONS. 
 
 215 
 
 Then take bread crumbs, pepper, salt, nutmeg, mace, lemon- 
 peel, parsley, and thyme; mix these with the yelks of two 
 eggs, and the pounded meat; fill the pigeons with the entire 
 composition, and fry them in fresh butter till brown. Pour 
 off the fat, and put the gravy to the pigeons; stew them in a 
 covered pan, and when done, serve them up with the sauce. 
 Lay on each pigeon a bay leaf, and on that a slice of bacon. 
 Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Pigeons en Surtout . 
 
 Force the pigeons, lay a slice of bacon on the breast of 
 each, and veal over that; season with pepper, salt and mace, 
 tie the meat fast, and roast the birds. Baste them with but¬ 
 ter, rub them over with the yelk of an egg, strew thereon 
 crumbs of bread, nutmeg, and sweet herbs. When done 
 pour over them a good gravy, with truflles, morels, and mush¬ 
 rooms, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 To ragout Pigeons . 
 
 Clean and stuff them with a seasoning of mixed spices, salt, 
 parsley shred very finely, a piece of fresh butter, and a few 
 bread crumbs. Tie them at neck and vent, half-roast them, 
 and finish in a stew-pan in good gravy, to which a glass of 
 white wine, a bit of lemon peel, and a few nice pickled mush¬ 
 rooms may be put. Thicken the sauce with butter rolled in 
 flour. Dish the pigeons, and pour it over them. Garnish 
 with asparagus laid between the birds. 
 
 Cream, or the beat yelk of an egg may be put to this, and 
 to any white ragout, taking care to prevent these ingredients 
 from curdling. The pigeons may be stuffed with a forcemeat 
 of the livers, with bread crumbs, minced parsley, butter, spices, 
 and a little cayenne, and dressed as a brown ragout, by brown¬ 
 ing them iy the frying-pan previous to stewing, thickening 
 the sauce with browned flour, and adding to it a spoonful of 
 catsup, or a glass of red wine. 
 
 To fricassee Pigeons. 
 
 Cut them in pieces, and fry them brown, lay them in a 
 
216 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 stew-pan, with gravy, and let them remain an hour, at the 
 end of which time, put in a slice of lemon, half an ounce of 
 morels, and a little browning. Let them stew five minutes 
 longer, take them up, thicken the gravy with butter and flour, 
 and strain it over the birds. Lay forcemeat balls round the 
 dish, and garnish with pickles. 
 
 A Fricandeau of Pigeons. 
 
 Truss them as for a pie, with their legs under their wings, 
 lard them with bacon, and lay them in a stew-pan, with the 
 larded side downward; add the white of a leek cut small, and 
 a pint of gravy; cover the pan, and set it over a slow fire, but 
 towards the close make it brisker to reduce the liquor. When 
 brown, take out the pigeons, remove the fat, add some more 
 gravy boiling hot, stir it three or four minutes, and pour it 
 over the birds. Garnish with crisped parsley. 
 
 A Bisk of Pigeons. 
 
 Clean, wash, truss, and parboil them; then put them into 
 strong gravy, and stew them. Make a ragout of gravy, arti¬ 
 choke buttons, mushrooms, truffles, morels, and six small 
 onions; cut a slice of ham into shreds, scald them in the gravy, 
 beat up the yelks of three eggs, with a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, add to it the ragout, and shake it round. Lay the 
 pigeons in the dish, and pour the ragout over them. Garnish 
 with slices of boiled beet-root. 
 
 Pigeons stored. 
 
 Make a forcemeat with bread crumbs, fat bacon scraped, 
 pepper, salt, cream, and the yelk of an egg. With this fill 
 up the heart of a small cabbage-lettuce chopped, tie it across, 
 and fry it a light brown in butter; then pour off the fat, lay 
 the pigeons round, having first flattened them, season with 
 pepper, salt and mace, put in half a pint of white wine, cover 
 the whole in a pan, and let it stew for five or six minutes ; 
 then add half a pint of gravy, cover it again, and stew for half 
 an hour. Thicken with butter and flour, and when done, lay 
 the lettuce in the middle, and the pigeons round it; squeeze 
 
PIGEONS. 
 
 817 
 
 in a little lemon juice, and pour the sauce over all. Garnish 
 with stewed lettuce, and pickled cabbage. 
 
 A Pupton of Pigeons. 
 
 Make some savoury forcemeat, roll it out like paste, put 
 it into a buttered dish, with a layer of thin bacon, squab 
 pigeons, sliced sweetbreads, asparagus tops, mushrooms, and 
 hard eggs; lay another forcemeat over the whole, like a pie, 
 bake it, and when done, turn it out into a dish, with th 
 gravy. 
 
 Artificial Pigeons or Chickens. 
 
 Make a rich forcemeat of veal or chicken, seasoned with 
 pepper, salt parsley, shalot, fat bacon, butter, and the yelk 
 of an egg; work this up into the shape of a pigeon or chicken, 
 putting the feet of the bird you intend it to represent, in the 
 middle, so as to appear at the bottom. Roll the forcemeat well 
 in the yelk of another egg, then in crumbs of bread, and put 
 the whole into an oven on tins. Send them to table with or 
 without gravy. 
 
 Pigeon Cutlets. 
 
 Cut the wings off six pigeons, with the breast adhering to 
 them: flatten them out, and trim in the shape of a cutlet; 
 pass off a spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and mushroom, 
 with two ounces of butter, and pour over them; season \vith 
 pepper and salt; dip them in egg, and crumb them: fry on the 
 saute-pan, with butter, and some herb or plain sauce under 
 them. (See Sauces.) 
 
81 H 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY, 
 
 RABBITS. 
 
 To fricassee Rabbits, white. 
 
 To fricassee rabbits white, you must cut them up as for 
 eating, and then put them into a stew-pan, with a pint of veal 
 gravy, a little beaten mace, a slice of lemon, an anchovy, a 
 tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a little cayenne pepper, and salt. 
 Let them stew over a gentle fire till they are enough: then 
 take them out, and lay them in your dish. Thicken the gravy 
 with butter and flour; then strain it, and add the yelks of 
 two eggs, mixed with a gill of thick cream, and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Stir these well together, and when it begins 
 
 o o O 7 O 
 
 to simmer, pour it quite hot over your rabbits, and serve them 
 to table. 
 
 To fricassee Rabbits , brown. 
 
 Cut them into pieces as before directed, and fry them in 
 butter of a light brown. Then put them into a stew-pan, 
 with a pint of water, a slice of lemon, an anchovy, a large 
 spoonful of browning, the same of catsup, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon pickle, and a little cayenne pepper and salt. Stew 
 them over a slow fire till they are enough; then thicken your 
 gravy with butter and flour, and strain it. Dish up your 
 rabbits, and pour the gravy over them. Garnish with sliced 
 lemon. 
 
 Rabbits en Casserole. 
 
 Quarter them, and lard them or not at pleasure, flour and 
 fry them; then put them into an earthen pipkin, with a quart 
 of gravy, a glass of white wine, pepper and salt, sweet herbs, 
 and butter rolled in flour. Cover the pan close, and stew 
 half an hour ; dish, and pour the sauce over the rabbits, gar¬ 
 nished with Seville orange in slices. 
 
RABBITS. 
 
 219 
 
 Rabbits en Matelot. 
 
 Prepare two rabbits as for a fricassee, put them with pieces 
 of bacon into a stew-pan. with half a pint of gravy, twelve 
 small onions, and some mushrooms; cover the pan, and let it 
 simmer an hour; then take out the rabbits, and lay them in a 
 dish. Skim oft’ the fat from the liquor, and reduce nearly to 
 a glaze; put some thin soup to it, give it a boil, and on taking 
 it off, squeeze in half a lemon, with cayenne, and sugar. Pour 
 this over the rabbits, and garnish with paste. 
 
 Rabbits surprised. 
 
 Stuff two rabbits, roast them, and take off the meat from 
 the bones, chop it fine, with sbreded parsley, lemon peel, 
 beef marrow, a spoonful of cream, and salt. Beat the yelks 
 of two hard eggs with a little butter in a mortar, mix all to¬ 
 gether, and stew it five minutes; lay this on the rabbits, 
 where the meat has been cut off', and brown it with a sala¬ 
 mander. Pour on some good thick gravy, and put some 
 myrtle in the mouth of each rabbit. Serve with the livers 
 boiled and frothed. 
 
 Rabbits en Gallantine. 
 
 Bone and flatten two young rabbits, lay forcemeat upon 
 them, with slices of lean ham, breast of fowl, and omelets of 
 eggs white and yellow ; roll up all tight, and fasten them, lard 
 the upper part with fat bacon, blanch and braise them. Glaze 
 the larding, put some gravy to them, and serve them hot. 
 
 Rabbits in the Portuguese way. 
 
 Bone two rabbits, spread forcemeat over them, and gVe 
 them as nearly the shape of chickens trussed for boiling, as 
 you can. Put the bones into a stew-pan, with trimmings of 
 poultry, some onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, a little mac e, 
 and a few bay leaves. Put in the rabbits, and cover them 
 with bacon; pour thereto a pint of stock, lay over the whole 
 some paper, and set the pan on the fire. Simmer very slowly 
 for an hour, then strain oft’the liquor, remove the fat, and make 
 
220 
 
 COMPOUND COOKEitY. 
 
 the sauce, putting a few truffles therein. On serving up, 
 pour the sauce into the dish, and then the rabbits, after 
 glazing them. 
 
 Fillets 6J Rabbit larded. 
 
 Cut the whole length of the fillet, along the back, with the 
 hind legs to it; lard and braize tnem till tender; glaze, and 
 serve an Italian sauce or ravigotc under them. (Sec Sauces.) 
 
 Civette of Rabbit. 
 
 Cut it in joints, blanch, cut twelve small square pieces of 
 bacon, fry them with the rabbit, brown ; put them in a stew- 
 pan, with two dozen button onions, a dozen of mushrooms, a 
 pint and a half of gravy, two glasses of white wine, pepper, 
 and salt; let it stew one hour; strain and take off the fat, and 
 thicken it with a spoonful of thickening; serve all together in 
 a dish. 
 
 Note .—Civette of hare is done the same way. 
 
 To pot Rabbits. 
 
 Cut up two or three young, but full grown ones, and take 
 the leg-bones off at the thigh ; pack them as closely as possible 
 in a small pan, after seasoning them with pepper, mace, cay¬ 
 enne, salt, and allspice, all in very fine powder. Make the top 
 as smooth as you can. Keep out the heads and the carcases, 
 but take off the meat about the neck. Put a good deal of 
 butter, and bake the whole gently. Keep it two days in the 
 pan; then shift it into small pots, adding butter. The livers 
 also should be added, as they eat well. 
 
G A M E. 
 
 HARE. 
 
 To jug Hare. 
 
 Let the hare hang a few days; and, when skinned, do not 
 wash it, but wipe where necessary with a clean cloth. Cut it 
 into pieces, season it high, and put it in a stone jar, or a jug, 
 with half a pound of ham, or fine bacon, fat and lean together, 
 six shalots, two onions, and some thyme, parsley, savory, 
 marjoram, lemon peel, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. Let the 
 whole of the meat be stewed with these well-mixed in ore- 
 dients, pour over it half a pint of red wine, squeeze in the 
 juice of a Seville orange, stop the vessel close down with a 
 bladder or leather, and brown paper, and carefully place it in a 
 pot of boiling water, deep enough to dress the meat, but not 
 so high as for any of the water to boil into it. In this situa¬ 
 tion the jar or jug is to remain three or four hours, the water 
 being kept on the boil all that time, and more added as it 
 boils away. Then, taking out the hare, strain the liquor 
 skim off the fat, and thicken it up for sauce with a little but¬ 
 ter and flour. If, in the mean time, the hare should at all 
 cool, put it again into the jug, with the thickened gravy, and 
 set it in the pot of boiling water till quite hot, but by no 
 means suffer it to boil. Serve it up as hot as possible, gar¬ 
 nished with slices of lemon and currant jelly. The larger 
 pieces of hare are sometimes larded with bacon. It is ob¬ 
 vious that the name of jugged hare is derived from its being 
 thus dressed in a jug or pitcher. It may be equally well done 
 in a tin vessel formed to drop into an outer saucepan with 
 water, or into a kitchen boiler, some of which are very con¬ 
 veniently made with a lid (either square or round) which may 
 be entirely removed and give place to a vessel of the above 
 
222 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 description, made to fit into it. It is very well to have two 
 of these tin vessels of different depths according to the quan¬ 
 tity they are required to contain. 1 hey answer admirably 
 for slow stewing, or for scalding fruit, and many other 
 purposes. 
 
 Another way. A much more easy, as well as quicker, and 
 more certain way of proceeding, than the foregoing, is the fol¬ 
 lowing: Prepare the hare the same as for jugging, put it into 
 a stew-pan, with a few sweet herbs, half a dozen cloves, the 
 same of allspice and black pepper, two large onions, and a roll 
 of lemon peel: cover it with water: when it boils, skim it 
 clean, and let it simmer gently till tender (about two hours,) 
 then take it up with a slice, set it by the fire to keep hot 
 while you thicken the gravy; take three ounces of butter and 
 some flour, rub together, put in the gravy, stir it well, and lei 
 it boil about ten minutes; strain it through a sieve, over the 
 hare, and it is ready. 
 
 Hotch-potched Hare. 
 
 This method of cooking a hare, differs from the preceding, 
 in nothing more than cutting it in small pieces, and putting it 
 into a jug, with a lettuce, cucumbers, turnips, and celery, in¬ 
 stead of ham, bacon, and wine. Less spice is also used in 
 this way. It is serviceable chiefly for % very old hare, that 
 will require five hours boiling. 
 
 To hash Hare, 
 
 Cut the hare into pieces, and divide the joints; put the 
 trimmings and gravy, with half a pint of water, and a table¬ 
 spoonful of currant jelly, into a stew-pan; let the whole boil 
 gently for a quarter of an hour, then strain it through a sieve, 
 and pour it back into the pan. Next flour the hare, put it 
 into the gravy, and let it simmer gently till the meat is warm, 
 which will be in about twenty minutes. Cut the stuffing 
 into slices, and add it to the hash, about five minutes before 
 serving up. Divide the head, and lay one half on each side 
 of the dish. 
 
HARE. 
 
 223 
 
 To broil Hare. 
 
 Season the legs first, and broil them on a gridiron, rub 
 them with cold butter, and serve them hot. The other pieces 
 warmed, with gravy and a little stuffing, may be sent up 
 separately. 
 
 A Florendine Hare. 
 
 Case a hare that has hung four or five days, leave the ears 
 on, but take out the bones, except those of the head; make 
 a stuffing of bread crumbs, the liver chopped, half a pound of 
 fat bacon scraped, a glass of red wine, one anchovy, two eggs, 
 some wintfer savory, sweet marjoram, thyme, pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg. Put this into the belly, roll it up to the head, and 
 fasten it tight. Boil it in a cloth an hour and a half, with 
 two quarts of water, and when reduced to one half, put in a pint 
 of port wine, a spoonful of lemon pickle, as much catsup, and 
 browning. Stew it till reduced to a pint, thicken with butter 
 rolled in flour, and lay round the hare morels and slices of 
 forcemeat, boiled in the caul of a joint of veal. On dishing 
 it, draw the jaw-bones, and stick them in the sockets of the 
 eyes. Let the ears lie back, and put myrtle or parsley into 
 the mouth. Strain the sauce over it. Garnish with bar¬ 
 berries and parsley, and serve it hot. 
 
 A Hare boned and larded. 
 
 Bone a hare, and do it over with egg, season with pepper, 
 spice, chopped mushrooms, parsley, thyme, and shalots; then 
 spread forcemeat all over it, roll it up tight, and lard it 
 thoroughly; put the bones and some ham into a stew-pan, 
 with a few bay leaves, onions, some thyme and parsley, a 
 few blades of mace, a pint of gravy, and half as much of port 
 wine. Cover the bones with fat bacon, put in the hare, and 
 cover that also in the same manner; then lay white paper 
 over the whole. Set the pan on a slow fire to simmer two 
 hours, then take up the hare, strain off the liquor, skim the 
 fat from it very clean, and make sauce for the mushrooms with 
 it.; put these on the dish, and then the hare. Garnish with 
 paste. 
 
224 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 To roast a Leveret. 
 
 In general, a leveret, or young hare, may be dressed like a 
 hare that is full grown. Having stuffed it in the usual man¬ 
 ner, with the liver chopped up, spit it, and put it down to the 
 fire; and while it is roasting, alternately dredge it with flour, 
 and baste it well with warm milk, till it be three parts done, 
 and there is a good crust formed : then finish it with two or 
 three ounces of fresh butter put into the dripping-pan ; and 
 serve it up, with gravy and melted butter over, and melted 
 currant jelly in a sauce tureen. 
 
 To stew Hare. 
 
 Cut off the legs and shoulders, or wings, as they are some¬ 
 times called; cut down the middle of the back, and then cut 
 each side into two or three pieces. Season these with mixed 
 spices, and steep them for some hours in shalot vinegar, with 
 three bay leaves, and some pounded cloves. Make a pint 
 and a half of gravy of the neck, head, liver, heart, ribs, &c. 
 with onions, a good slice of bacon chopped into small bits, a 
 large carrot split, sweet herbs, and two dozen corns of black 
 pepper and allspice. Strain this into a clean stew-pan, and 
 put the hare, with the vinegar in which it has been soaked, 
 to it, and stew gently till done. Add salt, spices, and a little 
 cayenne. A little catsup may be added, and the stew may 
 be thickened with butter rolled in browned flour. 
 
 A few roasted button onions may be peeled, stewed in the 
 sauce, and served with the hare. An old hare requires to be 
 either larded, stewed in a very rich broth, or, which is still 
 better, braised. 
 
 Hare Cakes. 
 
 Mince the best parts of the hare with a little firm mutton 
 suet. Season the mince highly. Pound it in a mortar, and 
 making it up as small cakes or sausage roll, flour and fry them, 
 or do them in a Dutch oven. 
 
 Hare Soup. 
 
 Make a clear strong soup of from three to four pounds o$ 
 
HARE. 
 
 22b 
 
 lean oeet cut in pieces, or a shin, a couple of carrots and turnips, 
 a half dozen onions, a quarter of an ounce of black and 
 Jamaica pepper-corns, and a faggot of sweet herbs. Cut a 
 hare (or two or three partridges) into neat small pieces. 
 [You may lay aside as much of the fleshy parts of a good hare 
 as will make a handsome dish of hare cakes, or collops, or 
 forcemeat balls for the soup.] Wash the pieces, and save 
 the washings, which must be carefully strained through a fine 
 sieve and added to the stock, as they contain much of the 
 flavour of the hare. Flatten and season the hare steaks; 
 dredge them with flour; brown them lightly in a frying-pan, 
 and put them to the strained stock,—or merely season and 
 add them with onions without frying. Let the soup stew 
 very slowly for an hour and a half at least. This soup may 
 be thickened with butter kneaded up in browned flour, or 
 with potatoes mashed, or potatoe mucilage. Or the fleshy 
 parts of the hare may be previously boiled in the stock, and 
 pounded in a mortar with the onions to thicken the soup. 
 Skim it again when nearly finished; put to it a glassful of 
 mushroom catsup and a little cayenne. Serve with the 
 hare steaks in the tureen. Red wine in the proportion of a 
 quarter of a pint to a tureen of soup, is reckoned an improve¬ 
 ment by some gourmands, and those of the old school still 
 like a large spoonful of currant jelly dissolved in the soup. 
 Hare soup may be made by cutting down the ingredients and 
 placing them in an earthen jar, in a kettle* of boiling water for 
 four hours, and then managing them as above. Cold roast 
 hare, not over-done, cut to pieces and stewed for an hour in 
 good and highly seasoned broth, will make an excellent but 
 not a highly flavoured hare soup. 
 
 Another way. Cut the hare in joints; put three quarts 
 of gravy soup to it, two onions, one carrot, a small bunch of 
 sweet herbs, eight cloves, and two blades of mace. Let it 
 stew till tender, then strain it off, pick the meat off the bones, 
 and well pound it; add the broth, and rub it through a 
 tammy sieve. Save a piece of the back of the hare, and cut 
 it in small slices, the size of a shilling, and put in the tureen 
 when the soup is served. Add two glasses of port wine as it 
 
 2 G 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 25>6 
 
 boils up, and season with a little cayenne pepper and salt. 
 Forcemeat balls may be added if desired. 
 
 Any kind of game may be made into a soup by the same 
 method. 
 
 Salmi of Hare. 
 
 Cut in small pieces the meat of a roast hare, put the bones 
 in a stew-pan, with one chopped onion, a spoonful of parsley, 
 and one ounce of butter; pass them off,* add a spoonful of 
 dour, a pint of gravy, and one glass of port wine; let it boil 
 ten minutes; strain this to the hare, and just warm it in the 
 same; season with salt, and cayenne pepper, and the juice of 
 half a lemon. 
 
 N. B. In this way all salmies of game are made. 
 
 PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES. 
 
 Pheasants and partridges are trussed in the same manner 
 as a turkey; if for roasting, lay them to a brisk fire, baste, 
 butter and froth well, serve with good gravy slightly flavoured 
 with garlic. For sauce, put a small teacup-ful of crumbs into 
 a stew-pan, pour thereon as much milk as will soak up the 
 bread, and a little more, or, instead of the milk, stew the gib¬ 
 lets, heads, necks, and legs of poultry; then moisten the bread 
 with the liquor, put it on the fire, with a middling sized onion, 
 pepper corns, allspice, or some mace; boil it, and stir it well, 
 then let it simmer till stiff, after which, add about two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of cream or melted butter, or some good broth; take 
 out the onion and pepper, and the sauce is ready. 
 
 Passing ofl is putting whatever herbs are chopped, or otherwise, iu 
 butter, and letting them boil together four or five minutes. 
 
PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES. 
 
 227 
 
 If you have only one pheasant, and wish to make a pair, 
 take a fine fowl of the same size, that has been kept four or 
 five days, truss, and dress it as the preceding, and few will 
 perceive the difference, either in look or flavour, between the 
 real and the mock pheasant. The breast of a pheasant is 
 sometimes larded before roasting. When cold they may be 
 made into excellent patties; but their flavour should not be 
 overpowered with lemon, as is not unfrequently the case. 
 
 To boil Pheasants. 
 
 These must be boiled in plenty of water. If it be a small 
 one, half an hour will be sufficient; but if a large one, three 
 quarters. For sauce, stew some heads of celery cut very fine, 
 thickened with cream, and a small piece of butter rolled in 
 flour, and season with salt to your palate. When your bird 
 is done, pour the sauce over it, and garnish the dish with thin 
 slices of lemon. 
 
 Another way. Truss the pheasant to boil, the same as a 
 turkey; stuff the breast with veal stuffing ; put it in hot water, 
 with two ounces of mutton suet, chopped and boiled: serve 
 celery or oyster sauce over it. 
 
 N. B. Partridges may be boiled and served the same way. 
 
 To stew Pheasants. 
 
 Put into your stew-pan, with the pheasant, as much veal 
 broth as will cover it, and let it stew till there is just liquor 
 enough left for sauce. Then skim it, and put in artichoke 
 bottoms parboiled, a little beaten mace, a glass of wine, and 
 some pepper and salt. If it is not sufficiently substantial, 
 thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and squeeze 
 in a little lemon juice. Then take up the pheasant, pour the 
 sauce over it, and put forcemeat balls into the dish. 
 
 To roast Partridges the French way. 
 
 Truss three partridges, and skewer them, cover the breasts 
 with slices of lemon, and over that lay some lard; wrap them 
 
228 
 
 COMPOUND COOK KRY 
 
 in paper, and fasten it with packthread, tied to the spit. 
 Roast them three-quarters of an hour; when done, take off 
 the paper, and serve up the birds in clear gravy, seasoned 
 with the juice of a Seville orange. 
 
 To boil Partridges. 
 
 Boil them quick in a good deal of water, and fifteen 
 minutes will be sufficient. For sauce, take a quarter of a 
 pint of cream, and a bit of fresh butter about the size of a 
 walnut. Stir it one way till it is melted, and then pour it 
 over the birds. 
 
 To stew Partridges. 
 
 Iruss them as for the spit, stuff the craws, and lard them 
 down both sides of the breast, roll a lump of butter in pep¬ 
 per, salt, and beaten mace, and put it into the bellies. Sew 
 up the vents, put them into a stew-pan, with a quart of gravy, a 
 spoonful of Madeira wine, as much catsup, a tea-spoonful of 
 lemon pickle, half as much mushroom powder, one anchovy, 
 half a lemon, and a sprig of sweet marjoram. Cover all close, 
 and stew them half an hour, take out the birds, and thicken 
 the gravy. Give it a boil, and pour it over the partridges^ 
 laying round them artichoke bottoms, boiled and cut in quar¬ 
 ters, and the yelks of four hard eggs. Woodcocks may be 
 done in the same manner. 
 
 To hash Partridges. 
 
 Roast two or three partridges, take off the flesh, but with¬ 
 out the skin or sinews, hash it very fine, break the bones, put 
 the whole into a stew-pan, with four large spoonfuls of Span¬ 
 ish sauce, and two of veal stock. When hot, pass it through 
 a search, reduce it to half the substance, take it off, and set 
 aside part for the hash, when it is to be served. Put into 
 the remainder, the minced meat, with pepper, nutmeg, and a 
 little butter; mix the hash well, dish, glaze, and garnish with 
 fried bread and poached eggs. 
 
PHEASANTS AND PARTRIDGES. 
 
 229 
 
 Partridges and Cabbage. 
 
 Truss the birds as chickens for boiling; put into a stew-pan 
 any trimmings of poultry or game that may be at hand; add 
 thereto about half a pint of good stock, three or four onions, 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, a few bay leaves, and some mace. 
 Next put in the partridges covered well with bacon. Boil a 
 Savoy cabbage, till about half done, take it out, and put it into 
 cold water, after which, divide it into four parts, squeezing it 
 first thoroughly with the hands, and also in a clean cloth. 
 Tie the cabbage up tight, and put it into the stew-pan with 
 the partridges ; add a glass of sherry, cover the whole close, 
 and simmer over a slow fire, about an hour. When done, 
 pour off the liquor, skim off the fat, put some butter into an¬ 
 other pan, and when melted, add as much flour as will dry it 
 up; put thereto the liquor the partridges were done in, and let 
 it boil a few minutes. Then take up the partridges and cab¬ 
 bage, and lay them on a clean cloth to dry; put the birds on a 
 dish, and the cabbage round, with pieces of carrot intermixed. 
 Garnish with Bologna sausages. 
 
 To pot Partridges. 
 
 Truss them as for boiling; season inside with pepper, salt, 
 and whole pepper; place them in a stew-pan, lined with slices 
 of lean ham ; put a large bunch of thyme in it, and a handful 
 of whole pepper and allspice; cover over with slices of ham, 
 put a pint of water to them; paste the cover of the stew-pan 
 all round, and let them stew gently two hours; after remain¬ 
 ing in the pan till cold, put them separately in pots, with a 
 few whole pepper corns in each ; pour boiling clarified butter 
 to cover them, and fill up. Tie the pots over with bladders 
 when cold; keep them in a cool place. 
 
 Another way. Clean them nicely; and season with mace, 
 allspice, white pepper, and salt, in fine powder. Rub every 
 part well; then lay them breast downwards in a pan, and pack 
 the birds as close as you possibly ean. Put a good deal of 
 butter on them; then cover the pan with a coarse flour-paste, 
 And a paper over; tie it close, and bake. When cold, put the 
 birds into pots, and cover them with butter. 
 
230 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. . 
 
 A very cheap way of potting Birds. 
 
 Prepare them as directed in the last receipt; and when 
 baked and grown cold, cut them into proper pieces for help¬ 
 ing, pack them close into a large potting pan, and (if possible) 
 leave no spaces to receive the butter. Cover them with but¬ 
 ter, and one-third part less will be wanted than when the birds 
 are done whole. The butter that has covered potted things 
 will serve for basting, or for paste for meat pies. 
 
 To clarify butter for potted things, put it into a sauce¬ 
 boat, and set that over the fire in a stew-pan that has a little 
 water in. When melted, take care not to pour the milky 
 paits over the potted things; they will sink to the bottom. 
 
 Note, birds may be preserved good a considerable time by 
 either of the following methods: 
 
 1. (and in our esteem always preferable) Lay lumps of char¬ 
 coal about and in them. 
 
 2. Just before dressing, clean and well wash them with 
 vinegar and water. 
 
 3. If they become high a day or two before they are want¬ 
 ed to be used, draw, crop, and pick them; wash in two or three 
 waters, and rub with salt. Have ready a large saucepan of 
 boiling water and plunge them into it one by one, drawing 
 them up and down by the legs that the water may run through 
 them; continue this process for five or six minutes. Then 
 hang them up in a cool place; when drained, pepper and salt 
 the insides, which pepper and salt must be washed out before 
 roasting. Birds so managed will require less time for roast¬ 
 ing; but the fire should be brisk, and they must be well 
 basted to secure their browning properly. 
 
 Observe, this method cannot be applied to birds that live 
 by suction, such as woodcocks, snipes, quails, &c. which are 
 never drawn. 
 
r i 
 
 » 
 
 BLACK COCK, MOOR GAME, AND GROUSE. 
 
 To roast Black Cock , Moor Game , and Grouse. 
 
 These are all to be roasted like partridges; the black cock 
 will take as much time as a pheasant, and moor game and 
 grouse as the partridge. Send up with them currant jelly, 
 and fried bread crumbs. 
 
 To pot Moor Game. 
 
 Pick, singe, and wash the birds nicely: then dry them 1 , 
 and season, inside and out, pretty high, with pepper, mace, 
 nutmeg, allspice, and salt. Pack them in as small a pot as 
 will hold them, cover them with butter, and bake in a very 
 slow oven. When cold, take off the butter, dry them from 
 the gravy, and put one bird into each pot, which should just 
 fit. Add as much more butter as will cover them, but take 
 care that it does not oil. The best way to melt it is, by 
 warming it in a basin set in a bowl of hot water. 
 
 Grouse braised, and Cabbage. 
 
 Draw the legs in the same manner as chickens for boiling, 
 lay at the bottom of the stew-pan some fat bacon, put in about 
 a pint of stock, a few shalots, a bunch of thyme, parsley, a 
 few blades of mace, two or three bay leaves, and then the 
 grouse. Blanch two cabbages, cut them in quarters, let them 
 boil till half done, then squeeze each part with your hands, 
 afterwards press them with a cloth, tie each bundle up sepa¬ 
 rately, and put them in the pan, with the grouse. They will 
 take about an hour over a slow fire, but if young, somewhat 
 less. When done, strain off the liquor, and remove the fat, 
 lay a little butter in the pan, and put it over the fire, and as 
 soon as it is melted, throw in as much flour as will dry it up. 
 Then put in by little and little, the liquor the grouse was done 
 in ; keep stirring it while on the fire, and when it has boiled a 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 232 
 
 few minutes, strain it off into another pan. Season it by 
 putting in a little cayenne and lemon juice. Put the grouse 
 on the dish, and the cabbage round it, pouring the sauce over 
 all. Garnish with carrots. 
 
 WOODCOCKS, SNIPES, QUAILS, &c. 
 
 To boil Woodcocks or Snipes. 
 
 First make a good strong broth or gravy, by cutting a 
 pound of lean beef into small pieces, and putting thereto four 
 quarts of water, an onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade or 
 two of mace, six cloves, and some whole pepper. Boil this 
 till half reduced, strain it off, and put it into a saucepan, with 
 some salt. Draw the birds, but take care of the guts. Put 
 the woodcocks or snipes into the gravy, cover them close, and 
 boil them for ten minutes. While doing, cut the guts and 
 liver small, take a little of the gravy, and stew them in it, 
 with a blade of mace. Rub small the inside of a roll, put it 
 into a pan with some butter, and fry it till it is crisp, and of a 
 fine brown colour. When the birds are ready, take about 
 half a pint of the liquor they were boiled in, and add to the 
 guts two spoonfuls of red wine, and a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour. Set them on the fire, and shake the saucepan fre¬ 
 quently, but do not stir it with a spoon till the butter is melt¬ 
 ed; then put in the fried bread, give the saucepan another 
 shake, take up the birds, pour the sauce over them, and gar¬ 
 nish with sliced lemon. 
 
 To roast Woodcocks or Snipes. 
 
 They must not be drawn, but truss their legs close to the 
 body, and run an iron skewer through each thigh, and tie 
 them on a bird spit. Put them down to a clear fire, cut a 
 slice of bread for each bird, toast or fry this brown, and lay 
 
WOODCOCKS, SNIPES, QUAILS, &C. £>;$ 
 
 the same under the roast to catch the trail. Baste with but¬ 
 ter, and froth with flour. Lay the toast on a hot dish, and 
 the birds on that. Pour some beef gravy into the dish, and 
 also send up some in a boat. Twenty or thirty minutes will 
 do them. Garnish with lemon. Some gourmands choose to 
 have woodcocks so much underdone, as to allow them only a 
 few minutes at the fire. Snipes require about five minutes 
 less doing than the other. 
 
 Woodcocks or Snipes en surtout. 
 
 Make a forcemeat of veal, and beef suet, pounded with 
 bread crumbs, beaten mace, pepper, salt, parsley, and sweet 
 herbs, mixed with the yelk of an egg. Lay some round the 
 dish, then put in the birds, drawn, and half roasted. Chop 
 the trail, and lay it over the dish. Put some truffles, morels, 
 mushrooms, a sweetbread, and artichoke bottoms, cut small, 
 into some good gravy, and stew them together. Beat up the 
 yelks of two eggs in white wine, stir the whole one way, and 
 when thick enough, pour it into the dish. Lay here and 
 there some hard eggs, season with more mace, pepper, and 
 salt, add some forcemeat coloured with egg, and send it to the 
 oven for half an hour. 
 
 Snipes with Purslaine Leaves. 
 
 D raw the snipes, and make a forcemeat to stuff them with, 
 but keep the ropes for the sauce; lay them crossways upon a 
 lark spit, covered with bacon and paper, and roast them gently. 
 For sauce, take some purslaine leaves, blanch them in water, 
 put them into a ladleful of cullis and gravy, a little shalot, 
 pepper, salt, nutmeg, and parsley, &nd stew them for half an 
 hour. Add the ropes, and dish the birds upon slices of fried 
 bread, squeeze the juice of an orange into the sauce, and 
 serve them up. 
 
 To roast Quails. 
 
 Do them in the same manner as woodcocks, without draw¬ 
 ing, and serve them on toast, and with butter only, as gravy 
 injures the flavour. The thigh and back are the favourite 
 parts. 
 
234 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 To dress Plovers. 
 
 Dress green ones as quails, but the gray may be either 
 roasted or stewed with gravy, herbs, and spice. The eggs 
 are delicious. Boil them ten minutes, and serve them hot or 
 cold. 
 
 Guinea and Pea Fowls. 
 
 These have very much of the flavour of pheasants, and are 
 cooked in same manner. 
 
 To roast Ruffs and Reeves. 
 
 These delicate birds must be trussed like the woodcock, 
 but not dressed with the guts. Serve them with gravy and 
 bread sauce, and garnish with crumbs of bread. 
 
 To roast Larks. 
 
 These delicious birds are in season in November. When 
 gutted, cleaned, and trussed, brush them with the yelk of 
 egg, and roll them in crumbs of bread, spit them on a lark 
 spit, and tie it on a larger one. Ten or fifteen minutes will 
 be sufficient for roasting them before a quick fire. Baste 
 them with butter, and while doing so, cover them thoroughly 
 with bread crumbs. Serve them with grated bread fried in 
 clarified butter, and for garnish, use slices of lemon. Wheat- 
 ears are cooked in the same manner. 
 
 Ortolans. 
 
 Th ese exquisitely small and delicious birds, form a luxuri¬ 
 ous treat in Italy, France, and every part of Europe. Abroad 
 they are spitted in pairs side by side, each wrapped in a vine 
 leaf, with a bit of fat bacon on the breast, and basted with a 
 little of the same. They are served with fried crumbs of 
 bread, and the juice of a Seville orange. The flesh is light, 
 and yet so luscious, that few persons can eat more than two. 
 In England, the price places them out of the reach of any 
 but the great and wealthy. 
 
Wild ducks, wigeons, teats, dunbirds, &c. are seldom pre¬ 
 pared in any other way than that of plain roasting as al¬ 
 ready directed, p. 60 , except as a salmi, prepared exactly in 
 the same manner as directed for hare, p. 226 . 
 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Although the more simple modes of dressing fish are most 
 generally acceptable, as well as much more economical and 
 wholesome, it is our business now to present our readers with 
 the more elaborate and expensive modes invented by gour¬ 
 mands or their caterers, to disguise the elementary commodity, 
 and humour the sickly and depraved appetite of luxury. 
 
 SALMON. 
 
 To boil Salmon crimp. 
 
 This makes a very handsome dish, and is the way in which 
 salmon is usually dressed in the places near the fisheries, 
 where the fish is obtained quick. The fish must be cleaned and 
 scaled without cutting up the breast. Cut off the head, with 
 about two inches of the neck, and the tail with the same 
 quantity of fish along with it. Cut as many circular fillets of 
 the salmon as you wish for, according to the sise of the fish 
 and the number of the company, of about three or four inches 
 thick; the opening of these slices whence the entrails have 
 been taken must be well cleaned from the blood, &c. Throw 
 the whole into cold water made brackish with salt. Place 
 the head and tail on the strainer, and put them in a fish-ket¬ 
 tle of boiling water, with a little salt and vinegar; 'let them 
 boil five minutes: lift the strainer, and lay cr. the slices: tako 
 
23G 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 off whatever scum arises, for it is very easy to injure the coloinr 
 of fresh salmon. Boil from fifteen to twenty-five minutes. 
 Place the head and tail on end in the middle of the fish-plate, 
 a d lay the circular shces neatly round them. 
 
 To broil fresh Salmon . 
 
 This mode of dressing, though unsuitable for a large din¬ 
 ner where salmon makes a principal dish, is the way in which 
 the solitary gourmet best relishes this luxury. Split the sal¬ 
 mon and take out the bone without mangling the fish. Cut 
 slices of from three to four inches in breadth. Dry them in 
 the folds of a cloth, but do not beat or press them. Have a 
 clear beef-steak fire, and a bright barred gridiron, rubbed with 
 a bit of mutton suet to prevent the fish from sticking; turn 
 them with steak tong3 the slices if not dry may be dusted with 
 flour. This, like all broils, must be served hot. The slices 
 may be wrapped in the folds of a napkin.—Anchovy or shrimp 
 sauce. 
 
 Some cooks recommend the following mode of serving this 
 dish:—While the salmon is broiling, take two anchovies, 
 wash, bone, and cut them small, also a leek into three or four 
 long pieces. Set on a saucepan, with some butter and flour, 
 put therein the anchovies and leek, with some capers cut 
 small, a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg; add to these ingre¬ 
 dients some warm water, and a couple of spoonfuls of vinegar, 
 shaking the saucepan till it boils, and let it simmer till wanted. 
 When the fish is done on one side, turn it on the other, and 
 when it is ready, take out the leek, pour the sauce into a dish, 
 and lay the salmon upon it. Garnish with lemons cut into 
 slices or quarters. 
 
 To dry Salmon. 
 
 Cut the fish down, take out the inside and roe. Rub the 
 whole with common salt after scaling it; Jet it hang twentv- 
 four hours to drain. Pound tnree or four ounces of salt¬ 
 petre, according to the size of the fish, two ounces of bay salt, 
 and two ounces of coarse sugar; rub these, when mixed well 
 into the'salmon, and lay it on a large dish or tray two dayr, 
 then rub it well with common salt, and in twenty-four hou?s 
 
SALMON, 
 
 237 
 
 more it will be fit to dry ; wipe it well after draining. Hang 
 it either in a wood chimney, or in a dry place ; keeping it 
 open with two small sticks. 
 
 Dried salmon is eaten broiled in paper, and only just 
 warmed through ; egg sauce and mashed potatoes with it.—Or 
 it may be boiled, especially the bit next the head. 
 
 To broil dried Salmon. 
 
 Let it soak in water two or three hours, then lay it on a 
 gridiros, and throw some pepper over it. When done, which 
 will be in a short time, serve it up with melted butter. 
 
 Another dish of dried salmon. Part the fish into flakes, 
 boil some eggs hard, and chop them, but not small; put both 
 into half a pint of thin cream, and add thereto two or three 
 ounces of butter rubbed with a tea-spoonful of flour; skim, 
 and stir it till it boils, then pour the whole into a dish, 
 round which you have previously made a ridge of mashed 
 potatoes. 
 
 To bake Salmon. 
 
 Place the fish in a deep pan, and stick plenty of bits of 
 natter over it. Season it with allspice, mace, and salt, and 
 rub a little of the seasonings on the inside. It must be 
 basted occasionally with what collects in the baking-pan. If 
 the fish is small, or a grilse, it may be skewered, with the tail 
 turned to the mouth. A baked salmon makes a handsome 
 dish, and eats well cold.—Garnishing and sauce as for boiled 
 salmon. 
 
 Another way. Cut a piece of salmon of five or six pounds 
 weight, into slices of about an inch in thickness, and then 
 make a forcemeat in this manner :—Take some of the finesl 
 parts of the fish, and as much of eel, with a few mushrooms. 
 Season the whole with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cloves, and 
 beat it together till it becomes very fine. Boil the soft 
 part of a roll in milk, and beat it up with four eggs till it 
 is thick; then set it to cool, add four raw eggs to it, and mix 
 all well together. Clear the salmon of its skin, and lay the 
 slices in a dish, covering every one with the forcemeat; pom 
 some molted butter over them, with crumbs of bread, and 
 
238 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 arrange oysters all round. Put the dish into the oven, and 
 when it becomes brown, pour over it a little melted butter, 
 which has been boiled with some red wine in it; add Juice of 
 lemon, and send it hot to table. 
 
 Another way. Scale and dry a fresh salmon, or part ol 
 one, but avoid washing it; take out the bone, by slitting down 
 the back, salt it well, and let the fish lie till the brine is drain¬ 
 ed off, then season with mace, cloves, and whole pepper, all 
 pounded; put it into a close pan, with bay leaves, and cover 
 it with butter. Send it to the oven, and when done, drain it 
 from the gravy. Then cut it up, and lay the pieces with the 
 skin uppermost, in pots, placing a weight upon each, to keep 
 the fish close till cold; then take the weight off, and pour on 
 the salmon clarified butter. 
 
 Grilled Salmon. 
 
 Put a piece of salmon into a dish, and pour over it some 
 good oil, to which add a little fine salt, a bay leaf, parsley, and 
 scallions cut in two; then turn the fish, and let it soak for 
 some time, after which, lay it on a gridiron, taking care to 
 turn and baste it occasionally with the seasoning. 1 ry the 
 flesh by raising it with the point of a knife, at the thick part 
 of the back, and if red, let it remain a little longer. When 
 done, turn it on a dish, take off the skin, pour some melted 
 butter over the salmon, and strew capers thereon. 
 
 The Geneva method of dressing Salmon. 
 
 Tie up a piece of salmon, and put it into a fish kettle, with 
 sliced onions, carrots, salt, and some spices; add thereto a 
 sufficient quantity of claret or port wine; when done, run 
 some of the liquor through a sieve, adding to it as much 
 Spanish sauce as will form a proper consistence, with anchovy 
 butter, and a piece of plain fresh butter; then set the whole 
 upon the fire to thicken, drain it clear, dish, and serve it up. 
 
 Another way. Boil your salmon in salt and water, take it 
 out, and draw out the small bones along the back, put some 
 dripping or butter in a stew-pan, and place the fish therein; 
 then heat the whole, w ithout letting it boil; when in the dish, 
 surround it with bread cut into forms, and some Parmesan 
 
SALMON. 
 
 £39 
 
 cheese grated thereon; then take melted butter, and with a 
 large feather brush it over the fish, after which, place it in an 
 oven, till it is of a fine colour. 
 
 Scolloped Salmon. 
 
 Skin a piece of raw salmon, and part it into scollops, each 
 about the size of a penny-piece, but a little thicker, flatten, 
 and round them; then put them one by one into a stew-pan, 
 with butter, over which strew a little salt and pepper. Put 
 into another stew-pan, three large table-spoonfuls of plain 
 sauce, thinned down with gravy, and add three or four ounces 
 of butter; keep tossing the scollops, and turning them till 
 done, after which, drain and place them one upon another in a 
 dish. Serve with some of the butter and stock in which they 
 have been dressed, and add thereto blanched parsley minced, 
 some nutmeg, and lemon juice; toss it up again, and send it to 
 table. 
 
 A Fricassee of Salmon. 
 
 Cut a piece of salmon into small slices, mince fine some 
 sweet herbs, parsley, and thyme ; season the fish with salt, 
 mace, cloves, ginger, and nutmeg, powdered small and well 
 mixed. Put into a pan some clarified butter or lard; make 
 it very hot, then lay in the salmon, and fry it quickly, taking 
 care that it does not burn. When about three-quarters done, 
 pour off the fat, and supply its place with white wine, 
 oysters, and their liquor, a large onion, two anchovies, some 
 minced thyme, and a little nutmeg, to which add the yelks 
 of four eggs beaten up with some of the liquor. Dish the 
 fricassee with sippets, pour the sauce thereon, and garnish 
 with oysters. 
 
 To kipper Salmon. 
 
 The fish must be cut up, cleaned and scaled, but not wash¬ 
 ed, and have the bone taken neatly out. Iiub with equal 
 proportions of salt and Brazil, or fine raw sugar, with a little 
 saltpetre. Let the fish lie for two days, pressing it with 
 a board on which weights are placed: then hang it up or 
 smoke it. Lest the folds gather mustiness and spoil, it is a 
 
210 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 good plan, when the fish is hung, to stretch it open with pieces 
 of stick, that it may dry equally. Peppers in powder may be 
 added to the salt. This forms a favourite addition to a Scotch 
 breakfast, and nothing indeed can be more relishing than 
 fresh kipper. It is uniformly dressed by cutting it into slices 
 and broiling. If long hung, the slices may be soaked in 
 ■water a quarter of an hour, which will soften and improve the 
 quality of the fish. If the fish is very large and rich it may 
 be rubbed with salt, and drained for a day before it get the 
 final salting. 
 
 To pot Salmon. 
 
 Split, scale, and clean, by wiping, for water must not 
 ouch it. Rub with salt, drain off the moisture, and season 
 the salmon with pounded mace, cloves, and black and Jamaica 
 pepper. Cut it into neat pieces; lay them in a pan, and 
 cover them with melted butter. Bake it, drain from the fat, 
 and put the pieces into potting cans, which must be covered 
 with clarified butter. 
 
 To collar Salmon. 
 
 Split, scale, and bone as much of the fish as will make a 
 handsome collar of about six inches diameter. Season it 
 highly with beaten mace, cloves, pepper, and salt, and having 
 rolled it firmly up and bandaged it, bake it with vinegar and 
 butter, or simmer in vinegar and water. Serve with melted 
 butter and anchovy sauce. The liquor in which the collar 
 was boiled or baked, may be boiled up with salt, vinegar, and 
 a few bay leaves, and put over the fish to preserve it. 
 
 Salmon Cutlets. 
 
 French cooks dress slices of fresh salmon as cutlets en 
 papillote, by seasoning with mixed spices, dipping in salad oil, 
 and broiling. Mustard is considered by knowing gourmands 
 an improvement to salmon when more than ripe. 
 
r 341 j 
 
 COD. 
 
 To dress a Cod's Head and Shoulders. 
 
 Have a quart of good stock, made of lean beaf or veal, with 
 onion, carrot, and turnip. Rub the fish with salt over night, 
 taking off the scales, but not washing it. When to be dressed 
 wash it clean, then quickly dash boiling water over the upper 
 side, and with a blunt knife take off the slime which will ooze 
 out, taking great care not to break the skin. Do the same to 
 the other side of the fish; then place it on the strainer, wipe it 
 clean, and plunge it into a turbot-kettle of boiling water, with 
 a handful of salt and a half pint of vinegar. It must be en¬ 
 tirely covered, and will take from thirty to forty minutes boil¬ 
 ing. Set it to drain, slide it carefully on a deep dish, and 
 glaze with yelks of eggs, over which strew fine bread crumbs, 
 grated lemon peel, pepper, and salt. Stick numerous bits of 
 butter over the fish, and set it before a clear fire, strewing 
 more crumbs, lemon peel, and minced parsley ever it, and 
 Dasting with the butter. In the meanwhile thicken with but- 
 tet kneaded in flour, and strain the stock, adding to it half a 
 hundred oysters nicely picked and bearded, and a glassful of 
 their liquor, two glasses of Madeira or sherry, the juice of a 
 lemon, and the hard meat of a boiled lobster cut down, the 
 soft part pounded. Boil this sauce for five minutes, and 
 skim it well; wipe clean the edges of the dish in which the 
 fish is crisping, and pour the half of the sauce around it, serv¬ 
 ing the rest in a tureen. Oarnish with fried oysters, smal. 
 filed flounders, and pickled samphire, or slices of lemon 
 Cod’s head is dressed with brown sauce, by browning the stock 
 with butter nicely browned, and adding a little mushroom 
 catsup. This sauce is generally made more piquant than the 
 white by the addition of a few boned anchovies. 
 
 Another way. Take out the gills and blood, wash the 
 fish clean, and having rubbed it over with salt, and a glass of 
 vinegar, lay it on a plate. When the water boils, throw in a 
 handful of salt, with half a pint of vinegar; after which, put in 
 
 2 i 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 24? 
 
 your fish, and let it boil gently half an hour, but if it is 
 large three-quarters of an hour will be necessary. On taking 
 it up, slip off the skin, set the fish before a good fire, dredge 
 it with flour, and baste it well with butter. When the froth 
 begins to rise, strew crumbs of bread over it, and as soon as 
 it is brown, dish it up. Garnish with small fish, or oysters 
 fried in butter, barberries, horse-radish, and lemon. Serve 
 with lobster, shrimp, or anchovy sauce. 
 
 To boil Cod. 
 
 Cut off the tail, which would be useless before the other 
 part is enough done. Rub well with salt inside, without 
 washing; let it lie from one to two days, and boil in plenty of 
 water, with a handful of salt. Garnish with the boiled roe 
 and liver, or small flounders or whitings nicely fried. The 
 tail cut may lie in salt for a few days, and be boiled and served 
 with egg sauce, or parsnips mashed with butter and cream; or 
 it may be broiled fresh, or fried in fillets or slices, and served 
 with oyster sauce; or a sauce made of half a pint of veal 
 gravy, a glass of red wine, a boned anchovy chopped, white 
 pepper and salt, and a few pickled oysters, and thickened with 
 a little flour kneaded in butter. Boil up and skim the sauce ; 
 place the slices neatly on the dish, and pour it around them. 
 Garnish with slices of lemon. 
 
 Tagout of Cod. 
 
 Scale your fish, and boil it in water and vinegar with 
 some lemon peel, one or two bay leaves, pepper, and salt. 
 When done, cover it with a sauce made of melted butter, 
 oysters, capers, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, and 
 a little cayenne and vinegar. 
 
 Cod’s Sounds boiled. 
 
 Soak them half an hour in warm water, then scrape and 
 clean them, and if they are to be dressed white, boil them 
 ‘n milk and water. When tender, serve them in a napkin, 
 with egg sauce. Do not let the salt soak out, unless for a 
 fricassee. 
 
COD. 
 
 213 
 
 Another way , to make them look like Chickens. 
 
 .Boil them, but not too much, and on taking them up, let 
 them stand till cold ; then make them a forcemeat of chopped 
 oysters, crumbs of bread, a piece of butter, nutmeg, pepper, 
 salt, and the yelks of two eggs; fill the sounds with this, and 
 skewer them up, each in the shape of a fowl, and lard them 
 like a young turkey. Dust them well with flour, put them 
 into a Dutch oven to roast, and baste them well with butter; 
 when done enough, pour over them some oyster sauce, and 
 garnish with barberries. 
 
 A Fricassee of Cods Sounds. 
 
 When cleaned, cut them into small pieces, boil them in 
 milk and water, and let them drain; then put them into a 
 saucepan, and season with beaten mace, grated nutmeg, and a 
 little pepper and salt. Add about a quarter of a pint of 
 C1 earn, with a piece of butter rolled in flour, and keep shaking 
 the whole till hot and thick. Pour all into a dish, and gar¬ 
 nish with slices of lemon. 
 
 Cod's Sounds broiled. 
 
 Scald them in hot water, rub them well with salt, and let 
 them simmer till tender. Then take them out, flour and 
 broil them. While this is doing, season some brown gravy 
 with pepper, salt, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a little mustard; 
 boil the whole with some flour and butter, and when done 
 pour it over the sounds. 
 
 Ragout of Cod's Sounds. 
 
 Prepare the sounds as in the preceding article; then stew 
 them in white gravy seasoned, and give the whole a gentle 
 boil, after adding cream, butter, and flour, with a little lemon 
 peel, nutmeg, and pounded mace. 
 
 To dress a Salt Cod. 
 
 Let the fish soak in water and a little vinegar all night 
 
244 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Boil it till it is (lone enough to pull into flakes, which must 
 be put into a dish, and covered with egg sauce. Garnish 
 with parsneps, boiled and beaten fine with butter or cream, 
 turned out in cups round the edge of the dish. Send it to 
 table very hot. 
 
 To dress young Codlings like Salt Fish. 
 
 Having gutted the fish, and dried them well with a cloth, 
 fill their eyes full of salt, and put some also over the back¬ 
 bone. Let them lie all night, then hang them up by the tail 
 for a day or two, and boil them in spring water as they are 
 wanted. When done enough, let them drain; then pour egg 
 sauce over them, and send them to table. 
 
 A Curry of Cod. 
 
 The fish should be sliced, and sprinkled or crisped for 
 twenty-four hours, to give it firmness; then fry it of a fine 
 brown colour with onions, after which, make a stew, with 
 white gravy, a little curry powder, some butter and flour; and 
 three or four spoonfuls of cream, salt, and cayenne may be 
 added, if the powder is not piquant enough. Add boiled 
 tice in a separate dish. 
 
 TROUT. 
 
 To broil Trouti 
 
 Clean and dry your fish, and tie it round with packthread, 
 to preserve the shape. Melt some butter with a good deal 
 of fine salt, and cover the trout with it; then put it on a clear 
 fire, and let it broil gradually, but at some distance. Wash 
 and bone an anchovy, cut it small, and chop up some capers. 
 Melt butter with flour, and add thereto pepper, salt, nutmeg, 
 
TROUT 
 
 2i5 
 
 and half a spoonful of vinegar. Pour this over the fish, and 
 serve it hot. 
 
 To fry Trout. 
 
 When scaled, gutted, cleaned, and dried, dust them with, 
 flour, and set them before the fire. Fry them of a fine colour^ 
 with dripping, and serve with crisped parsley and plain butter. 
 You may dress perch and tench in the same way. 
 
 To stew Trout. 
 
 Take a large fish, clean it well, and put into its belly a 
 stuffing made of grated bread, a bit of butter, chopped pars¬ 
 ley, lemon peel, pepper, salt, nutmeg, savoury herbs, and the 
 yelk of an egg, thoroughly mixed. Then put the trout into 
 a stew-pan, with a quart of good gravy, and half a pint of 
 white wine, an onion, some whole pepper, a few cloves, and a 
 little lemon peel. Stew the whole gently over a slow fire, and 
 when done, add to the sauce a little flour and cream, some 
 catsup, and the juice of a lemon. Let it just boil, then strain 
 it over the trout, and send the dish to table. 
 
 To dress Trout in the Genevese manner. 
 
 Clean the fish as before, put it into the stewpan, with half 
 a pint of champaign, and the same quantity of Moselle, Rhe¬ 
 nish, or sherry wines. Season with pepper, salt, an onion, 
 and a few cloves stuck in it, a bunch of parsley and thyme 
 and a crust of bread. Set it over a quick file, and when 
 the fish is nearly done, take, out the head, bruise it, and 
 thicken the sauce with flour and butter, and let it boil up. 
 Lay the trout in a dish, and pour the sauce over it. Serve 
 with slices of lemon, and fried bread. 
 
24 fi 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 V 
 
 HADDOCKS AND WHITINGS 
 Haddocks in Brown Sauce. 
 
 Clean, cut off the heads, tails and fins, and skin from six 
 to eight well-sized haddocks. Take the heads, tails, and 
 trimmings, with two or three fish cut down, and boil them in 
 a quart of water, with a couple of onions, some sweet herbs, 
 and a piece of lemon peel; thicken with plenty of browned 
 butter and flour, and season highly with mixed spices and 
 mushroom catsup; strain the sauce, and when it boils and is 
 skimmed put in the fish cut into neat pieces, and if you choose, 
 previously browned in the frying-pan. If there be too little 
 sauce add some good beef gravy; put in a quarter hundred of 
 oysters and a glass of their liquor, or some muscles, and a lit¬ 
 tle wine. Take out the fish when ready, with a slice, and 
 pour the sauce, which should be brown, smooth, and thick, 
 around them. 
 
 Observations.—Haddocks may be stuffed with a fish force¬ 
 meat and boiled in a sauce as directed above. Some of the 
 forcemeat may be made into balls for garnishing. Haddocks 
 may also be stuffed, egged, and strewed with fine bread¬ 
 crumbs, minced parsley, &c. and baked, basting them well with 
 butter. Serve in a white sauce made of a pound or more of 
 good veal, onions, and parsley, and thickened with plenty of 
 butter kneaded in flour. Strain, and add a glass of white 
 wine, the juice of a lemon, white pepper in fine powder, a 
 quarter hundred of pickled oysters, and a spoonful of the 
 liquor. Pour the skimmed sauce over the fish. Garnish 
 with sliced lemon and pickled samphire. This makes a very 
 handsome Scotch dish. Whitings are dressed as above with 
 a white sauce, and codlings with a brown sauce. 
 
 Haddocks and codlings may also be dressed m a sauce 
 made of two bottles of clear small beer poured over a half 
 pound of butter, nicely browned and dredged with flour, 
 oysters, and a little of their liquor, mushroom catsup, spices, 
 and vinegar. Boil the fish in this strained sauce, and serve in 
 a soup dish. 
 
HADDOCKS AND WHITINGS. 
 
 2H 
 
 Haddocks salted , 8fc. 
 
 Haddocks salted a day or two, and eaten with egg sauce, 
 are a very good article. Haddocks cut in fillets, fried, eat 
 very fine. Or if small, very well broiled, or baked, with a 
 pudding in their belly, or some good gravy. 
 
 Findhorn Haddock . 
 
 Let the fish be well cleaned and laid in salt for two hours, 
 let the water drain from them. They may be split or not; 
 they are then to be hung in a dry situation for a day or two, 
 or a week or two, if you please; when broiled, they have all 
 the flavour of the Findhorn haddock, and will keep sweet for 
 a long lime. 
 
 To broil JVhitings. 
 
 They should be well dried in a cloth, and then rolled well 
 in flour; and before they are put on the gridiron, the bars 
 should be made very clean, and rubbed with a bit of fat bacon 
 to prevent the whitings sticking to the bars. 
 
 Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, and small Cod. 
 
 Take an equal quantity of fat bacon, beef suet, and fresh 
 butter, some savory, tbyme, and parsley, a few leaves of sweet 
 marjoram, two anchovies, with some salt, pepper, and nutmeg; 
 to this add crumbs, and an egg to bind. Oysters added to 
 
 the above will be a considerable improvement. 
 
 / 
 
 Currie of Haddocks, Codlings, or JVhitings. 
 
 Have a quart of good beef or veal stock, in which a carrot 
 or turnip, and two onions have been boiled. Thicken it with 
 butter kneaded in lightly browned flour. Having cleaned, 
 skinned, and boned the fish, cut them in neat bits of about 
 three inches in length. Rub them with flour, and fry them 
 of a fine golden brown in good butter. Drain them, and mix 
 very smoothly with a little of the stock from a dessert spoonful 
 
248 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 to a table-spoonful of currie powder, two onions beaten in a 
 mortar, and a large quarter pint of good thick cream; if a little 
 sour so much the better. Stew the fish very slowly in the 
 stock till they are tender, which will not be long. Place the 
 pieces neatly in the dish, and having skimmed the currie sauce, 
 pour it over them. 
 
 MAC KAREL. 
 
 To broil Mackarel. 
 
 Clean the fish, wipe it on a dry cloth, and having cut a 
 slit down the back, lay it on the gridiron over a slow fire, 
 taking care to turn it when one side is done. Season it with 
 pepper and salt, and put some fresh butter in the fish, as well 
 as on the outside. 
 
 To bake Mackarel. 
 
 Op en them, cut off their heads, take out the roes, and 
 clean them well; rub them on the inside with some pepper and 
 salt; then replace the roes, and season the fish with pounded 
 allspice, black pepper, and salt; lay them in a pan, covered 
 with equal quantities of vinegar and water; tie them over with 
 strong white paper doubled, and bake them for an hour in a 
 slow oven. They may be kept for a fortnight. 
 
 Another way. Take twenty mackarel, cut off the heads, 
 and trim them neatly; place them in a dish in rows; sprinkle 
 over pepper and salt, two spoonfuls of chopped onion, parsley, 
 and thyme; add one pint of vinegar and a quart of water, 
 mixed, with two bay leaves, cover them over, and bake one 
 hour. They may be served hot or cold, and kept in the 
 
 Note.—Herrings may be done in the same way. 
 
MACK A REL. 
 
 219 
 
 Mackarel collared. 
 
 Bone the mackarel, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, a 
 spoonful of allspice, chopped onion and parsley: roll them up, 
 and place them in a pan tight together; pour over them a 
 sufficient quantity of sea water and vinegar, mixed, to cover 
 them; let them boil gently a quarter of an hour; keep them 
 in the pickle, and serve hot or cold. They may be baked in¬ 
 stead of boiled. 
 
 Note.—If sea water cannot be had, spring water, with a 
 handful of salt in it, will answer the purpose. Herrings mav 
 be done in the same way. 
 
 Mackarel , Maitre d’ Hotel. 
 
 Split down the back, and take out the bone; season with 
 pepper and salt; pass off a spoonful of chopped shalot, ditto 
 of mushroom, ditto of fennel, ditto of parsley, and pour over 
 the mackarel; put the sides together again to look whole’ 
 bake them in a dish half an hour; and serve maitre d hotel 
 sauce under them. 
 
 Mackarel fillets. 
 
 Bone the mackarel in two separate fillets; season them with 
 salt and pepper; sprinkle over them a spoonful of chopped 
 parsley and two shalots; roll them up; put in a braize hah 
 an hour; serve a piquante, or fennel sauce under. 
 
 Mackarel broiled in paper. 
 
 Split mackarel down the back; take out the bone; season 
 with pepper and salt; rub a little butter over ; fold oiled paper 
 over them, and broil; serve fennel or parsley and butter. 
 
 To Pot Mackarel. 
 
 C' a .an, season, and bake them in a pan, with plenty of spice, 
 bay leaves, and butter. When cold, put them into a pot, and 
 cover them with butter. 
 
 2 K 
 
250 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 To pickle Mackarel in the manner called Caveach 
 
 Clean and divide six large mackarel; cut each sine into 
 three parts; take an ounce of pepper, two nutmegs, a little 
 mace, four cloves, and a handful of salt, all finely powdered; 
 mix them, and having made a hole in each piece of fish, force 
 the seasoning therein, rub also some on the outside; then fry 
 them brown in oil, let them stand till cold, put them into a 
 stone jar, and cover them with vinegar. If they are to be 
 kept for any length of time, pour some oil on the top. 
 
 STURGEON. 
 
 To dress fresh Sturgeon. 
 
 Cut slices, rub egg over them, then sprinkle with crumbs 
 of bread, parsley, pepper, salt; fold them in paper, and broil 
 gently. 
 
 Sauce; butter, anchovy, and soy. 
 
 To roast Sturgeon. 
 
 Put it on a lark-spit, then tie it on a large spit; baste it 
 constantly with butter : and serve with a good gravy, an an¬ 
 chovy, a squeeze of Seville orange or lemon, and a glass of 
 sherry. 
 
 Another way. Put a piece of butter, rolled in flour, into a 
 stew-pan, with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions, 
 some pepper and salt, half a pint of water, and a glass of vine¬ 
 gar. Stir it over the fire till hot; then let it become luke¬ 
 warm, and steep the fish in it an hour or two. Butter a paper 
 well, tie it round, and roast it without letting the spit trin 
 through. Serve with sorrel and anchovy sauce. 
 
STURGEON. 
 
 251 
 
 To pickle Sturgeon. 
 
 Cut it into pieces, wash it well, and tie it with mats. To 
 three quarts of water put one of old strong beer, a handful of 
 bay salt, and double the quantity of common salt, one omnce 
 of ginger, two of black pepper, one of cloves, and one of 
 Jamaica pepper. When the liquor boils, put in the sturgeon 
 till it leaves the bone, and then take it up; the next dav put 
 it in a quart of the strongest beer vinegar, and a little alt. 
 Cover it close with strong paper, and keep it for use. 
 
 Imitation of Pickled Sturgeon. 
 
 Take a fine large turkey, but not old; pick it very nicely, 
 singe, and make it extremely clean : bone and wash it, and 
 tie it across and across with a bit of mat string washed dean. 
 Put into a very nice tin saucepan a quart of water, a q,.art of 
 vinegar, a quart of white (but not sweet) wine, and u. very 
 large handful of salt; boil and skim it well, then bc»i the 
 turkey. When done enough, tighten the strings, a,*d lay 
 upon it a dish with a weight of two pounds over it. Bod the 
 liquor half an hour; and when both are cold, put the u.rkev 
 into it. This will keep some months, and eats moi> deli¬ 
 cately than sturgeon; vinegar, oil, and sugar, are usually 
 eaten with it. If more vinegar or salt should be wanted, add 
 when cold. Send fennel over it to table. 
 
 
 SOLES. 
 
 To fry rolled. 
 
 Take two or three soles, divide them from the back-bone, 
 am! take off the head, fins, and tail. Sprinkle the inside with 
 gait; roll them up tight from the tail-end upwards, and fasten 
 
252 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 with small skewers. If large or middling, put half a fish in 
 each roll; small do not answer. Dip them into yelks of eggs, 
 and cover them with crumbs. Do the egg over them again, 
 and then put more crumbs; and fry them a beautiful colour in 
 lard or in clarified butter. 
 
 Soles in the Portuguese ivay. 
 
 Take one large or two small; if large, cut the fish in two; 
 if small, they need only be split. The bones being taken out, 
 put the fish into a pan with a bit of butter and some lemon- 
 juice ; give it a fry, then lay the fish on a dish, and spread a 
 forcemeat over each piece, and roll it round, fastening the loll 
 with a few small skewers. Lay the rolls into a small eaithen 
 pan, beat an egg and wet them ; then strew crumbs ovei, and 
 put the remainder of the egg, with a little meat-gravy, a 
 spoonful of caper-liquor, an anchovy chopped fine, and some 
 parsley chopped, into the bottom of the pan; cover it close, 
 and bake till the fish are done enough in a slow oven. I hen 
 place the rolls in the dish for serving, and cover it to keep 
 them hot till the baked gravy is skimmed; if there be not 
 enough, a little fresh, flavoured as above, must be prepared and 
 added to it. 
 
 Portuguese stuffing for Soles baked. 
 
 Pound cold beef, mutton, or veal, a little; then add some 
 fat bacon that has been lightly fried, cut small, and some 
 onions, a little garlick or shalot, some parsley, anchovy pep¬ 
 per, salt, and nutmeg; pound all fine with a few crumbs, and 
 bind it with two or three yelks of eggs. The heads of the fish 
 are to be left on one side of the split part, and kept on the 
 outer side of the roll; and when served, the heads are to be 
 turned towards each other in the dish. Garnish with fried 
 or dried parsley. 
 
 To boil flavoured , 
 
 Having skinned a pair of soles, wash, and lay them in 
 vinegar, salt, and water, for two hours; dry them m a cloth 
 
SOLES. 
 
 253 
 
 put them into a stewpan, with a pint of white wine, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, an onion stuck with six cloves, some whole 
 pepper, and a little salt. Cover them, and when brown take 
 them up, strain off the liquor, and thicken it with flour and 
 butter. Pour the sauce over the fish, and garnish with horse¬ 
 radish and lemon. 
 
 To stew Soles. 
 
 Half fry them in butter, then take them out, and put into 
 the pan a quart of water, two anchovies, and a sliced onion. 
 Replace the fish in the pan, and let them stew gently twenty 
 minutes, or half an hour, according to the size. When taken 
 out, squeeze a lemon over the pan, and thicken the liquor 
 with butter and flour. Having given it a boil, strain it 
 through a sieve over the fish, and serve with oyster or shrimp 
 sauce. Flounders and plaice may be done in the same manner. 
 
 Another way, which answers equally well for eels, lampreys, 
 and fillets of turbot, holibut, whitings, cod, &c. Clean and 
 trim the fish. Eels must be cut in from three to four inch 
 lengths, and rubbed with salt before skinning, to draw off 
 the slime. Wash them very well. The other kinds of fish 
 must be cut into rather larger pieces; the pieces may be dip¬ 
 ped in egg, rolled in grated crumbs, and browned before they 
 are put into the stew-pan. Have a pint and a half of good 
 clear beef gravy, in which two onions, a carrot, and a few pot 
 herbs have been boiled. Stew the fish in this gravy very 
 gently, giving a quarter of an hour to the harder sorts, and 
 about ten minutes to whitings or eels. Lift out the pieces, 
 and keep them hot. Skim the sauce, and thicken it with 
 browned flour, or rice flour; add a small glass of red wine, 
 and a large spoonful of mushroom catsup; give it a minute’s 
 boiling, and strain it over the stewed fish. Stewed fish may 
 be dressed for maigre days in the French manner, making the 
 stock strong, either with fish or butter, or part of both, and 
 using more herbs or seasonings. Serve with scraped horse¬ 
 radish, sippets of bread, or fried parsley. 
 
254 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 To bake Soles. 
 
 Bone and take off the fillets, or they may be done whole; 
 season with pepper and salt; a spoonful of chopped onion, 
 parsley, and mushroom may be sprinkled over them ; lay them 
 in a dish, with some butter on them, in pieces; cover with 
 crumbs of bread, and so on alternately, till the dish is full; 
 bake them one hour, and serve in the dish with their own 
 gravy. 
 
 N. B. Plaice, smelts, haddock, and whiting are done in 
 the same way. 
 
 To fricassee Soles. 
 
 When skinned and cleaned, cut off the heads of the fish, 
 and dry them on a cloth. Separate the flesh from the bones 
 and fins, cut it first lengthwise, and then across, so that each 
 fish may be divided into eight pieces. Put the heads and 
 bones into a pan, with a pint of water, sweet herbs, an onion 
 shreded, whole pepper, two or three blades of mace, a piece 
 of lemon peel, a little salt, and a crust of bread. Cover the 
 whole close, and let it boil till reduced to one half; strain 
 through a fine sieve, and put the liquor into a stewpan, with 
 the fish, adding half a pint of white wine, some chopped 
 parsley, a few mushrooms cut small, grated nutmeg, and a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour. Keep the pan shaking over a 
 slow fire till the soles are done, then serve them up with the 
 gravy, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 To marinade Soles. 
 
 Boil the fish in salt water, then bone and drain them, after 
 which, lay them on their backs in a dish, boil some spinach, 
 pound it in a mortar, next chop separately the whites and 
 yelks of four eggs boiled hard, lay them with the spinach in 
 separate portions among the fish, and serve with melted but¬ 
 ter. 
 
riPERS. 
 
 255 
 
 RED MULLETS. 
 
 To bake. 
 
 Clean them well, but leave the inside, case them in oiled 
 paper, and bake them gently. The liquor produced by the 
 fish makes a good sauce, with the addition of anchovy, a glass 
 of sherry, and a little butter rolled in flour: give it a boil, and 
 serve in a tureen, but the.mullets in their paper cases. 
 
 To boil. 
 
 Boil them in salt and water, and when done, pour away 
 part of the liquor, adding to what remains, a pint of red wine, 
 salt, vinegar, two onions sliced, a bunch of sweet herbs, nut¬ 
 meg, beaten mace, and lemon juice. Boil these ingredients, 
 with two or three anchovies, then put in the mullets, and let 
 them simmer some time. Serve with the sauce, and shrimps 
 or oysters. 
 
 To fry. 
 
 To fry mullets, scale and gut them, score across, and dip 
 them in melted butter. Fry them in oil or clarified butter, 
 and serve them with anchovy sauce. 
 
 PIPERS. 
 
 They may be either boiled or baked, with a pudding, well 
 seasoned. If done in the latter way, put some rich gravy into 
 the dish; and when baked, add to the liquor some essence of 
 anchovy, and juice of lemon ; then boil the whole for sauce. 
 
256 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 JOHN DORY. 
 
 This delicate fish, which is highly esteemed by epicures, 
 requires particular care in the dressing. It should be put 
 into cold spring water, with a little salt and vinegar, and when 
 it begins to boil, add some more water; then put it by the 
 side of the stove to simmer for a few minutes. 
 
 HOLIBUT. 
 
 Holibut may be managed precisely in the same manner as 
 turbot in all its varieties of dressing: it very much resembles 
 that fish, and but for the moderate price at which it is sold, 
 would perhaps be as highly esteemed. 
 
 SKATE AND THORNBACK. 
 
 Skate is very good when in season, but not otherwise. To 
 have it firm and dry, the fish shouid be crisped; but those who 
 like it tender, should keep it one, two, or even four days, ac¬ 
 cording to the weather. Young skate eats remarkably well 
 crisped and fried.—To boil skate, cut it into long pieces, and 
 crossways, about an inch in breadth ; then put the fish into 
 spring water and salt. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, and 
 serve it with melted butter and anchovy sauce.—To roast 
 skate, take off the fins, after they have hung a day or two in 
 the air, and while before the fire baste them with butter. 
 Serve as before.—To fry skate, dip the pieces in butter, or 
 do them with bread crumbs; the former way will require 
 more iard or butter.—To fricassee skate, prepare them as 
 directed for soles, after which, put the fish into a stewpan. 
 Every pound will require a quarter of a pint of water. Add 
 thereto some beaten mace and grated nutmeg, sw r eet herbs 
 
SMELTS. 
 
 ?v7 
 
 «nd salt; -*over the whole, and let it boil i quarter of an hour, 
 then take out the herbs, put in a quartet of a pint of cream, 
 a piece of butter rolled id flour, and a glass of sherry. Shake 
 the pan all one way, till the fricassee is smooth and thick. 
 (iarnish with slices of lemon. 
 
 MAIDS. 
 
 1 hese should be hung up in the open air one or two 
 days. They may be either broiled, fried, or, if tolerably 
 large, the middle part may be boiled, and the fins put into a 
 stew pan, and fried, dipped in egg, and covered with crumbs 
 of bread. 
 
 SMELTS. 
 
 To pickle Smelts. 
 
 Wash, clean, and gut a quarter of a peck of smelts, take 
 half an ounce of pepper, as much of nutmeg, a quarter of an 
 ounce of mace, half an ounce of saltpetre, and a quarter of 
 a pound of common salt. Pound all fine, and place your 
 fish in rows in a jar; between every layer of smelts, strew 
 the seasoning, with the addition of four or five bay leaves. 
 Then boil some red wine, and pour a sufficient quantity over 
 the fish to cover them. Lay a plate upon them, and 
 when cold, stop them close. They make a pleasant article for 
 supper. 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 25* 
 
 LAMPREYS. 
 
 To fry. 
 
 Oj«n and clean them, but save tho Dlood, wash them in 
 warm water, and then fry them in dripping. When nearly 
 done, pour off the fat, add a little white wine, and shake the pan 
 round. Put in some white pepper, sweet herbs, capers, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour and the blood. Cover the pan 
 close, and shake it frequently, When done, take the fish 
 out, strain off the sauce, then return it again to the pan, and 
 give it a quick boil. Add the juice of a lemon, stir the 
 whole together, and when about to boil pour it over the fish. 
 Serve it up with a garnish of sliced lemon. 
 
 To stew. 
 
 Having gutted and cleaned the fish, season them with salt, 
 pepper, lemon peel shreded fine, mace, cloves, and nutmeg. 
 Put some pieces of butter into the stewpan, roll your fish 
 round, and put them in with half a pint of gravy, a glass of 
 white wine, a bunch of marjoram, winter savory, thyme, and 
 a sliced onion. Stew over a gentle fire, and keep turning the 
 fish till they are tender, then take them out, and add an 
 anchovy to the sauce. Beat the yelk of an egg very fine, 
 and thicken the liquor with it, or do the same with a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. When the sauce boils, pour it over 
 the fish, and serve them up. Eels may be done in the same 
 way. 
 
 The Worcester method of stewing Lampreys. 
 
 Clean the fish well, take out the cartilage which runs 
 along the back, and season with cloves, mace, nutmeg, pep¬ 
 per, and allspice ; put the whole into a pot, with strong beef 
 gravy, and equal quantities of red port, white wine, or cider. 
 Cover the pot close, stew till the fish is tender, then take it 
 out, and keep it hot. In the mean time, boil up the liquor 
 again, with two or three anchovies chopped, and flour and butter; 
 
HERRINGS. 
 
 259 
 
 strain the gravy through a sieve, and add thereto some lemon 
 juice, and made mustard. Serve it up with sippets of bread 
 and horse-radish. Eels may be done in the same manner. 
 If there is spawn, it should be fried and put round the dish. 
 
 HERRINGS. 
 
 To boil Herrings. 
 
 Having cleaned and scaled the fish, dry them well, and 
 rub them over with a little salt and vinegar. Fasten the tails 
 in their mouths, and lay them on the fish plate. Put them 
 into the water as soon as it boils, and let them remain about 
 twelve minutes. On taking them up, let them drain, and then 
 turn the heads into the middle of the dish. Serve with but¬ 
 ter and parsley, and garnish with scraped horse-radish. 
 
 To broil Herrings. 
 
 Clean them, and cut off their heads, dry them in a cloth, 
 dust them with flour, and lay them on the gridiron. Wash 
 the heads, and boil them in small beer, with whole pepper and 
 onions. When done, strain off the liquor, and thicken it 
 with butter, flour, and mustard. Lay the herrings in a dish, 
 pour the sauce into a boat, and serve them up. 
 
 To fry Herrings. 
 
 Scale the fish, wash, and dry them well, dredge them with 
 flour, and fry them in butter over a brisk but clear fire. When 
 done, set their tails one against the other in the middle of the 
 dish. Fry crisp a handful of parsley, take it out before the 
 colour changes, lay it round the herrings, and serve them up 
 with melted butter, parsley, and mustard. 
 
2G0 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY 
 
 To bake Herrings. 
 
 Scale, wash, and dry them well in a cloth, lay them cn a 
 board, mix some black pepper, and a few cloves, pounded with 
 plenty of salt, and rub the fish all over. Lay them straight 
 in a pot, cover them with vinegar, put in a few bay leaves, tie 
 strong paper over the top, and bake them in a moderate oven. 
 They may be eaten either hot or cold, and if the best vinegar 
 is used, they will keep good two or three months. Sprats 
 may be done in the same way. 
 
 To pot Herrings. 
 
 Cut off their heads, and lay the fish close together in an 
 earthen pot, strewing a little salt between every layer; add 
 some cloves, mace, whole pepper, and a nutmeg sliced. Fill 
 up the vessel with vinegar, water, and a quarter of a pint of 
 white wine. Cover it close with brown paper, and put it 
 into the oven. When cold, take out the herrings, put them 
 into other pots, tie them close with paper, and keep them for 
 use. 
 
 To smoke Herrings. 
 
 Having cleaned your fish, lay them for a night in a mixture 
 of common salt and a little saltpetre. The next day, pass a 
 stick through the eyes, and hang a row of herrings over an 
 old cask, in which place some saw-dust, and in the midst of it 
 a heater red hot. Let them remain suspended in the smoke 
 twenty-four hours. 
 
 To dress Red Herrings. 
 
 'The preference is to be given to those which are large and 
 juicy; cut them open down the back, pour some boiled small 
 beer over them, and let them soak an hour; then drain, and 
 beat them through before the fire, rub some butter over them, 
 and serve them with egg sauce, or buttered eggs, and mashed 
 potatoes. 
 
LOUS'i'E fib. 
 
 SCI 
 
 SPRATS 
 
 Should be broiled either on a sprat gridiron, or you may 
 Lasten them in rows, by running a skewer or wire through the 
 heads. Serve them up as hot as possible; they only require 
 wiping. 
 
 PLAICE, FLOUNDERS, AND DABS, 
 
 Should be rubbed inside and out with salt, and hung up to 
 dram; this will make them eat firm; they may be dipped in 
 egg, covered with bread crumbs, and fried; or boiled in salt 
 md vinegar, and eaten with oyster sauce; or stewed in rich 
 gravy with any flavour that is approved, in the same manner as 
 directed for soles. 
 
 
 LOBSTERS. 
 
 To boil Lobsters. 
 
 It Is advisable to purchase them alive, as the dealers often 
 starve them, by which means they are very unsavoury. Choose 
 the most active, and of a middling size, but avoid such as have 
 the shell incrusted, for it is a sign they are old. The male is 
 best to eat, and the female for sauce. Set on a pot, with a 
 table-spoonful of salt to a quart of water; and when it boils, 
 put in the lobster, and keep it boiling briskly from half an 
 hour to an hour, according to the size. Wipe off the scum, 
 and rub the shell with butter or oil, break off the great claws, 
 crack them at the joints, so as not to shatter them, cut the 
 tail down the middle, and send up the body entire. Lobsters 
 come into season about April, and continue till September 
 alter which they begin to spawn. 
 
262 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 To roast Lobsters. 
 
 Half boil a lobster, then take it out of the water, rub it 
 well with butter, and set it hefore the five. Continue the 
 basting till it froths, and the shell has a brown colour. Then 
 put it into a dish, and serve it with melted butter. 
 
 To stew Lobsters. 
 
 Pick out the meat, put the berries into a dish that has a 
 lamp, and rub them down with a little butter, two spoonfuls of 
 gravy, one spoonful of soy or walnut catsup, some salt, and 
 cayenne pepper, and a spoonful of red port. Stew the lobster 
 with the gravy. 
 
 Buttered Lobsters. 
 
 Clear out the meat, cut it small, and warm it with some 
 thin brown gravy, nutmeg, salt, pepper, butter, and flour. If 
 to be done white, substitute white for brown gravy, or you may 
 adopt cream instead of either. 
 
 To make a Curry of Lobsters. 
 
 Having taken the edible substance from the shells, lay 
 it in a pan, with a little mace, three or four spoonfuls of veal 
 gravy, and four of cream, rub smooth one or two tea-spoon¬ 
 fuls of curry powder, one of flour, and an ounce of butter. 
 Simmer these together for an hour, squeeze therein half a 
 lemon, and add some salt. Prawns may be used instead or 
 lobster. Add rice as usual. 
 
 To pot Lobsters. 
 
 Half boil them, pick out the meat, cut it into small bits, 
 season with mace, white pepper, nutmeg, and salt; press close 
 into a pot, and cover with butter; bake half an'liour; put 
 the spawn in. When cold, take the lobster out, and put 
 it into the pots with a little of the butter. Beat the other 
 butter ir a mortar with some of the spawn; then mix that 
 
CRABS, PRAWNS, &C. 
 
 268 
 
 coloured butter with as much as will be sufficient to cover 
 the pots, and strain it. Cayenne may be added, if approved. 
 
 Another way. Take out the meat as whole as you can : 
 split the tail, and remove the gut; if the inside be not 
 watery, add that. Season with mace, nutmeg, white pepper, 
 salt, and a clove or two, in the finest powder. Lay a little 
 fine butter at the bottom of the pan, and the lobster smooth 
 over it, with bay leaves between; cover it with butter, and 
 bake gently. W hen done, pour the whole on the bottom of 
 a sieve, and with a fork lay the pieces into potting-pots, some 
 of each sort, with the seasoning about it. When cold, pour 
 clarified butter over, but not hot. It will be good next day: 
 or, highly seasoned, and thick covered with butter, will keep 
 some time. 
 
 Potted lobster may be used cold, or as a fricassee, with a 
 cream sauce; it then looks very nicely, and eats excellently, 
 especially if there is spawn. 
 
 A Lobster relish. 
 
 Pick the meat from a parboiled lobster, and also the inside, 
 if not thin and watery. Season highly with white pepper, 
 cayenne, pounded mace and cloves, nutmeg, and salt. Take 
 a little well-flavoured gravy, for example, the jelly of roasi 
 veal, a few tiny bits of butter, a spoonful of soy, or walnut 
 catsup, or of any favourite flavoured vinegar, and a spoonful of 
 red wine. Stew the cut lobster in this sauce for a few minutes. 
 
 CRABS, PRAWNS, fce. 
 
 To dress Crab hoe. 
 
 Pick out the meat, put the whole into a pan, with an 
 ounce of butter, a little essence of anchovy, a tea spoonful ot 
 mustard, two table-spoonfuls of oil; and the same quantity ot 
 common, one of elder, and one of Chili vinegar, with a 
 handful of bread crumbs. Mix the whole with a spoon, put 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 264 
 
 it into the shell, with more crumbs over it, drop thereon some 
 clarified butter, and put it into the oven; if not sufficiently 
 brown when taken out, brown it with the salamander. 
 
 Another way. Pick the meat out of the claws and body ; 
 clean the shell nicely, and return the meat into it, first sea¬ 
 soned with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg; and with a few 
 bits of fresh butter, and some bread crumbs. A small glass 
 of vinegar beat and heated up with a little made mustard, may 
 be added, and a small quantity of salad oil substituted for the 
 butter. Brown the meat when laid in the shell with a sala¬ 
 mander. 
 
 To dress Crab cold. 
 
 Pick out the meat from the inside, and put it by itself in 
 one plate, and that of the claws in another, adding to the 
 former some bread crumbs, cayenne, essence of anchovy, two 
 spoonfuls of common vinegar, some clarified butter, and a 
 spoonful of elder vinegar. Mix these ingredients thoroughly, 
 clean the shell out, put the dressed part at one end, and 
 that of the claws at the other. Pound the spawn in a mortar, 
 rub it through a sieve, and lav it over the crab in diamonds. 
 If there is no spawn, substitute that of a lobster; lay parsley 
 round the fish, and make a circle of the small claws with more 
 parsley between that and the shell. The shell of one crab 
 will contain the meat of two. 
 
 Another way. Pick out all the meat, and mixing it well 
 with a tea-spoonful of salad oil, cayenne, white pepper, and 
 salt, serve it in the shell. 
 
 Mock Caviare . 
 
 Bone a few anchovies and chop them, then pound them in 
 a mortar with some dried parsley, a clove of garlic, a little 
 cayenne, salt, lemon juice, and a very little salad oil. Serve 
 on toasted bread or biscuit. 
 
 A Salmagundi. 
 
 Wash and cut open st the breast two large Dutch or 
 
OYSTERS. 
 
 2C5 
 
 Lochfine pickled herrings ; take the meat from the bones 
 without breaking the skin, and keeping on the head, tail, fins, 
 &c. Mince the fish with the breast of a cold roast chicken 
 skinned, a couple of hard boiled yelks of eggs, an onion, a 
 boned anchovy, and a little grated ham or tongue. Season 
 with salad oil, vinegar, cayenne, and salt; and fill up the her¬ 
 ring skins so that they may look plump and well shaped. 
 Garnish with scraped horseradish, and serve mustard with the 
 dish. 
 
 Observations. An ornamental salmagundi was a frippery 
 dish of former times. This edifice was raised on a china 
 bowl reversed, and placed in the middle of a dish, crowned 
 with what by the courtesy of the kitchen was called a pine¬ 
 apple, made of fresh butter. Around were laid, stratum above 
 stratum, chopped eggs, minced herring and veal, rasped meat, 
 and minced parsley : the whole surmounted by an arch of her 
 ring bones, and adorned with a garnishing of barberries and 
 samphire. 
 
 To stew Prawns , Shrimps and Crayfish. 
 
 Pick out the tails of two quarts of fish, put the bodies 
 into a stewpan, with a little mace, about a pint of white wine, 
 or water and vinegar. Stew the whole for a quarter of an 
 hour, stir them well, and strain off the liquor. Next wash 
 out the pan, and put in the strained liquor, together with the 
 tails. Grate therein a small nutmeg, add a little salt, four 
 ounces of butter rolled in flour, and shake the whole tho¬ 
 roughly. Cut thin a large slice of bread, toast it brown, 
 divide it into six pieces, lay them close together at the bot¬ 
 tom of the dish; pour the fish and sauce over it, and serve it 
 hot. Crayfish should be garnished with some of the large 
 claws, laid round thick. 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 To stew Oysters. 
 
 Large oysters are generally preferred for this purpose. 
 
 2 M 
 
20G 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Stew about two dozen ot them in their own liquor, and just as 
 they are about to boil, skim the whole well, take them up, 
 and beard them. Strain the liquor through a sieve, and lay 
 the oysters on a dish. Put an ounce of butter into a stew- 
 pan, and when melted, strew in as much flour as will dry it up, 
 with the liquor, and three table-spoonfuls of milk or cream, a 
 little white pepper, and salt. Some add a little catsup, finely 
 chopped parsley, the grated peel, and the juice of a lemon. 
 Boil the whole well for two minutes till smooth, then take it 
 off, put in the oysters, and let them get warm, taking care 
 that they do not boil. Line the bottom and sides of a dish 
 with sippets of bread, and pour to them the oysters and sauce. 
 
 Another way. Plump juicy oysters alone will stew to ad¬ 
 vantage. When opened pick them out, beard and wash 
 them in their own liquor, and strain it repeatedly. Put it 
 into a silver or block-tin saucepan with a bit of mace, and 
 lemon peel, and a few white pepper corns, a little butter 
 kneaded in flour, and a glass of sweet cream, or of Champai.gne, 
 or Madeira, if for a high relish; in which case a very little 
 minced shalot or onion, and cayenne may be added. Cover 
 and simmer the oysters very gently for five minutes, lift them 
 with a silver spoon into a deep hot dish, with toasted sippets 
 in it, and strain the sauce over them. 
 
 To scallop Oysters. 
 
 Having stewed the oysters as above directed, for two or 
 three minutes, have some bread crumbs moistened with their 
 liquor, a good piece of melted butter, and a little wine. Place 
 some of this in scallop shapes, and cover with a layer of oys¬ 
 ters, then more moistened bread crumbs, and oysters, and 
 finish with the bread crumbs mixed with a little grated lemon 
 peel. Put some bits of butter over the whole, and brown be¬ 
 fore the fire, or in a Dutch oven. 
 
 Another way. Stew them gently in their own liquor three 
 or four minutes, take them out, beard them, and skim the 
 liquor. Put a little butter into the pan, and when melted, 
 add to it as much bread crumbs as will absorb it. Then put 
 the oyster liquor into buttered scallop shells, strew it with 
 crumbs, then place therein a layer of oysters, next of erurobs, 
 
OYSTERS. 
 
 2f>7 
 
 and so on, till the stock is exhausted. Moisten these layers 
 with the oyster liquor, cover them with crumbs, put a little 
 butter on the top of each, and brown them in a Dutch oven. 
 Essence of anchovy, catsup, cayenne, grated lemon peel, mace, 
 and other spicerv, may be used to give the dish a flavour. 
 Any cold fish may be dressed in the same manner. Small 
 scallop shells, or saucers holding about half a dozen oysters, 
 are the best for use 
 
 To stew Oysters in Trench Rolls. 
 
 Wash them in their own liquor, then strain it, and put it 
 m again, with salt, ground pepper, beaten mace, and grated 
 nutmeg. Stew these together for a short time, and thicken 
 the whole with butter. Cut off the tops of a few French 
 rolls, and take out as much of the crumb as to admit some of 
 the oysters, filling them in boiling hot. Then set them over 
 a stove, or chafing-dish of coals, till they are heated through, 
 filling them up with more liquor or gravy, as the fish is 
 absorbed. Serve them up as puddings. 
 
 Oyster Loaves. 
 
 Take out the crumb of some small loaves, lay oysters in 
 a stewpan, with their liquor, the bread, and a piece of but¬ 
 ter. Stew all these five or six minutes, then add a spoon¬ 
 ful of cream, and fill up the loaves, placing a little crust 
 on the top of each, and bake them. 
 
 To fry Oysters. 
 
 Choose the largest for this purpose, and when thoroughly 
 cleaned, atrew over them a little grated nutmeg, a blade of 
 mace pounded, a spoonful of flour, and some salt. Dip each 
 of the oysters into this mixture, and fry them in lard till 
 they are brown. Take them out, and pour over them a lit¬ 
 tle melted butter, mixed with crumbs of bread. 
 
 To fry Oysters as a Garnish for Fish. 
 
 Simmer them in their own strained liquor for three 
 minutes; drain them, take off the beards, and dipping in a 
 batter of egg, flour, and white pepper, fry them in lard or 
 
203 
 
 COMPOUND COOKUHY. 
 
 butter of a golden brown. The above is the same as oyster 
 fritters, only the batter must be stiffer, and more highly sea¬ 
 soned with mace, nutmeg, and lemon peel.—Oyster loaves, a 
 fantastic dish, is made as oyster patties, using the little rolls 
 made for this purpose instead of patty pans.^ See Patties, 
 Oyster Sauce, and Preserved Oysters. 
 
 To fricassee Oysters. 
 
 Put into the pan a slice of ham, a bunch of parsley, some 
 jweet herbs, and an onion stuck with cloves. Stew these 
 over a gentle fire for a few minutes, and add thereto a little 
 flour, some good broth, and a piece of lemon peel. Then 
 put in the oysters, and let the whole simmer till thoroughly 
 hot. Thicken with the yelks of two eggs, a little cream, and 
 a piece of butter; but take out the ham, herbs, onion, and 
 peel, adding, instead of the last, some of the juice. Shake 
 the pan well, and when it simmers, pour the whole into a 
 dull. 
 
 To ragout Oysters. 
 
 On opening them, save the liquor, and strain it through a 
 sieve, wash the oysters clean in warm water, and make a 
 batter by beating up the yelks of two eggs, with half a 
 grated nutmeg; add thereto some lemon-peel cut small, a 
 handful of parsley, and a spoonful of the juice of spinach, 
 with two of cream or milk, and thicken the whole with flour. 
 Put some fresh butter into a stewpan, and when hot, dip each 
 oyster into the batter, roll them in crumbs of bread grated 
 fine, and fry them brown; then take them out and set them 
 Before the fire. After this, fry in butter as quick as 
 possible, a quart of chesnuts shelled and skinned, and when 
 done, pour the fat out of the pan, shake some flour over it, 
 and rub a piece of butter all round. Put in the oyster liquor, 
 three or four blades of mace, the chesnuts, and half a pint ot 
 white wine. Boil them, and add thereto the yelks of two 
 eggs, beat up with four spoonfuls of cream. Stir the whole 
 well, and when thick and fine, lay the oysters in the dish, 
 with the ragout over them. Garnish with chesnuts and lemon 
 sliced. 
 
OYSYEItS. 
 
 269 
 
 To brown Oysters in their own liquor . 
 
 Wash them in their juice, and dip them one by one in 
 yelk of egg beat up with a very little flour, pepper, and salt. 
 Brown a good piece of butter in the frying pan, and brown 
 the oysters nicely over a quick fire ; draw them aside, and pour 
 their juice strained into the pan; thicken it with a very little 
 flour kneaded in butter, and when it boils stir the oysters 
 among it for a few minutes. This answers for brown sauce 
 to cod’s head and shoulders, calf’s head, &c.; but when to be 
 served as a stew, it may have a little catsup, bread crumbs, 
 and minced parsley added to it. Serve in a hot hash-dish on 
 toasted sippets. 
 
 To pickle Oysters. 
 
 Wash the largest fat native oysters that you can get, in 
 their own liquor. Strain it, and to every pint of it put a 
 glass of white wine, mace, nutmeg, a good many white pep¬ 
 per corns, and a little salt if necessary. Simmer the oysters 
 for four or five minutes, but never let oysters boil, as they will 
 harden. Put them in glass or stone jars. Put vinegar in 
 the proportion of a glass to a pint to the liquor, and boil it 
 up. Skim the pickle, and pour it over the oysters, and when 
 cold cover them and tie them close up with bladder. The 
 pickle liquor may be boiled up occasionally, which will tend to 
 preserve the oysters: a spoonful of it will be a great addition 
 to any bash or common ragout. 
 
 Another w r ay. Put the oysters into a stewpan, dust them with 
 some fine Lisbon sugar, pour to them their own liquor well 
 strained, and set the pan on a gentle fire for five minutes, but 
 without suffering it to boil. Decant off 1 the liquor into another 
 stewpan, and add to it double the quantity of good vinegar, with 
 some catsup, cayenne pepper, lemon-peel, and salt. Boil the 
 whole for a quarter of an hour; then dust the oysters again 
 with sugar and salt finely powdered; after which, place them 
 one by one in a stone jar. When cold, strain the pickle 
 over them, and cover the whole closely with bladder and 
 leather. Some persons cut off the beards before they lay the 
 
270 
 
 COMPOUND COOKUItY. 
 
 oysters in the jar. Pickled oysters should be served up in 
 rows, and garnished with slices of lemon. 
 
 Another way. Put the oysters into a saucepan with their 
 own liquor, aud let them simmer ten minutes very gently; 
 then lay them in a jar as already directed, and cover them 
 cold with the following pickle. Boil the liquor with a bit of 
 mace, lemon peel, and black pepper; and to every hundred ol 
 oysters, put two spoonfuls of the best vinegar. They should 
 be kept in small jars, well covered, to exclude the air, which 
 would spoil them. Muscles and cockles may be done in the 
 same manner. 
 
 MUSCLES. 
 
 To stew Muscles. 
 
 Wash them in several waters, put them into a stewpan, 
 and cover them close. Let them stew till the shells open, then 
 pick out the fish, and examine under the tongue of each, to 
 see if there be a small crab, and if there is, throw it away. 
 Pick off likewise the tough membrane under the tongue. 
 Then put the muscles into a saucepan, adding to every quart 
 of fish, half a pint of the liquor strained through a sieve. 
 Put in a few blades of mace, a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
 and stew them gently. Lay some toasted bread in the dish, 
 pour the muscles on it, and serve them upi 
 
 To ragout Muscles. 
 
 Put the muscles into a saucepan, and stew them till they 
 open, then take them out of the shells, and save the liquor. 
 Lay in the pan a piece of butter, a few chopped mushrooms, 
 a little parsley, and grated lemon peel. Stir the whole toge¬ 
 ther, add some gravy, pepper, and salt; thicken it with flour, 
 boil it up, put in the muscles, until their liquor, and when hot 
 serve them up. 
 
L 271 ] 
 
 RIVER FISH. 
 
 EELS. 
 
 . 7b boz7 Eds. 
 
 After cleaning them, cut off their heads, dry, and twist 
 them round on the plate. Boil them in salt and water, and 
 serve them up with parsley and butter, or fennel sauce. 
 
 To broil Eels. 
 
 Rub them, when cleaned, with the yelk of an egg, strew 
 over them crumbs of bread, chopped parsley, sage, pepper, 
 and salt. Baste them well with butter, and put them on a 
 gridiron over a clear fire. Serve them as in the preceding 
 way. 
 
 To fry Eels. 
 
 Clean them thoroughly, cut them in pieces, season them 
 with pepper and salt, beat up an egg, and dip the eels therein, 
 after which, strew some crumbs over them, then flour, and fry 
 them in butter or lard; Drain them when done, and serve 
 them up with plain butter, the juice of lemon, or parsley and 
 butter. Garnish with crisped parsley. 
 
 Another way. Skin and clean them, rub them with salt, 
 and wash them in several waters. Cut them in four-inch 
 lengths, and, having rubbed them with salt and mixed spices, 
 dip them in beat egg, and roll in crumbs. Fry in plenty of 
 boiling lard, drain from the fat on a sieve before the fire, 
 and serve them with chervil, or parsley and butter, or melted 
 butter, or melted butter sharpened with vinegar or lemon juice. 
 
 To roast Eels. 
 
 Cut them in pieces, according to the size, make a season¬ 
 ing of grated nutmeg, white pepper, or long pepper and 
 salt, with some thyme, sage, and lemon peel, all pulve¬ 
 rized or shreded small, and mixed with crumbs of bread. 
 Strew this over the eels, fasten them with skewers to the 
 spit, baste them constantly, and let them roast till they crack, 
 
272 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 and appear white to the bone. Send them up with melted 
 butter and lemon juice. 
 
 To bake Eels, 
 
 Cut off their heads, and clean them thoroughly. Make 
 a forcemeat of shrimps or oysters chopped small, crumbs of 
 bread, some lemon peel shreded fine, the yelks of two eggs, 
 a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Put this mixture into the 
 hollies of the fish, sew them up, and turn them round. 
 Put flour and butter over them, pour some water into the 
 dish, and bake the eels in a moderate oven. When done, 
 take out the gravy, and skim off the fat, strain it through a 
 hair sieve, and add a tea-spoonful of lemon peel, two of brown¬ 
 ing, a spoonful of walnut catsup, a glass of white wine, one 
 anchovy, and a slice of lemon. Boil it ten minutes, and 
 thicken with flour aud butter. Garnish with lemon and 
 crisped parsley. 
 
 To fricassee Eels. 
 
 Skin three or four large fish, and notch them from head to 
 tail, cut each eel into four or five pieces, and lay them in 
 spring water for half an hour; dry them in a cloth, and put 
 them into the pan, with fresh butter, one or two onions, and 
 some chopped parsley. Set the pan on the fire, and shake it 
 for a few minutes, then put in about a pint of white wine, 
 and the same quantity of good gravy, with pepper, salt, and a 
 blade of mace. Stew the whole together about half an hour, 
 and then add the yelks of four or five eggs, some grated nut¬ 
 meg, and chopped parsley. Stir these well, and let them 
 simmer four or five minutes, after which, put in the juice of 
 a Seville orange or lemon. Garnish with lemon in slices. 
 
 Spitchcocked Eels, 
 
 Take two silver eels of a moderate size, rub them well with 
 salt, and either skin them, or wash them, and cut off their 
 heads, slit them up on the belly side, take out the bones and 
 guts, and clean them thoroughly; next cut them in pieces of 
 about three inches in length, and wipe them dry; put two 
 ounces of butter into a pan, with minced parsley, thyme, sage, 
 
EELS. 
 
 273 
 
 pepper, salt, and a little shalot chopped fine. When the 
 butter is melted, stir the ingredients together, take the pan off 
 the fire, and add the yelks of two eggs, and dip therein the 
 pieces of fish, one at a time. Roll them well in crumbs ot 
 bread, rub a gridiron with suet, set it high over a clear fire, 
 and broil them till they are of a fine brown colour. Serve 
 them with crisped parsley, one boat of plain butter, and ano- 
 th er of anchovy and butter. Some persons prefer having the 
 eels skinned. 
 
 To broil or Spitehcock Eels. 
 
 Take the bone out of a large eel; cut it in square pieces, 
 season with salt and pepper; put a spoonful of chopped parsley 
 and onion, together, over them; dip them in egg and bread 
 crumbs; broil over a gentle fire, or bake them a quarter of an 
 hour. Serve anchovy sauce. 
 
 N. B. If a small eel, cut it in lengths, without boning, and 
 do it the same way. 
 
 Stewed Eels , or Matelot. 
 
 Cut two pounds of eels four inches long; put in a stew- 
 pan, with one large onion, a bunch of sweet herbs, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of mace and allspice, together; half a pint of port 
 wine and half a pint of gravy, one spoonful of anchovy es¬ 
 sence, and two ditto of mushroom catsup; let them stew three 
 quarters of an hour ; strain the gravy ; thicken it; add salt ana 
 pepper, with the juice of half a lemon; boil it five minutes; 
 add the eel and one dozen of button onions, boiled tender. 
 
 N. B. If for a matelot, tench, carp, trout, and the tails of 
 lobsters may be added; or each of these fish may be dressed 
 separately the same way. 
 
 Eels to stew , plain. 
 
 Skin and cut two pounds of eels in lengths; put them on 
 with two ounces of butter, half a pint of gra/y or broth, half 
 a nutmeg grated, and a handful of picked parsley, with pepper 
 and salt to taste; simmer them a quarter of an hour; strain 
 off the liquor, take off the fat, and thicken with a spoonful oi 
 butter and flour; boil five minutes; add the squeeze of half a 
 lemon, and serve the eels in it. 
 
 b 12 2 n 
 
COMPOUND CCOICEriY. 
 
 2’U 
 
 Eels to collar. 
 
 Bone a large eel, whole; lay it flat, and season with pro¬ 
 per and salt, a spoonful of pounded mace, and allspice, together; 
 a spoonful of chopped parsley, ditto of onion, and pounded 
 thyme and marjoram; roll it up, beginning at the tail; tie up 
 in a cloth, put it into a stew-pan, with a quarter of a pint of 
 vinegar, a pint of water, one whole onion, and two bay leaves ; 
 let all boil gently one hour; when cold take oif the cloth, and 
 keep it in the liquor it was boiled in, adding a little salt. 
 
 Another way. Clean and bone some fine large eels, and 
 then flatten them with the inside upward. Next mix parsley, 
 shalot, thyme, marjoram, and savory chopped small, with a 
 little beaten pepper, mace, cloves, nutmeg, allspice, mushroom 
 powder, lemon peel, and salt. Rub these well into the eels, 
 both inside and out; after which, roll and tie them up tight. 
 In the mean time, boil the heads and bones in salt and water, 
 with a bit of lemon peel, a few bay leaves, and pepper; put 
 the collars into this liquor with some vinegar, and let them 
 simmer in a stew-pan till done. Take the collars out, skim 
 off the fat, boil it down to a jelly, and either pour it on them 
 when cold, or wipe them dry and serve them up with it. 
 Some sprigs of parsley, lemon peel, or barberries, may be put 
 upon the eels, and slices of lemon round the dish, if served 
 up whole ; but if in slices, a garnish of parsley will be suf¬ 
 ficient. For family use, eels may be collared with parsley, 
 sweet herbs, allspice, salt, and saltpetre only. Some persons 
 put wine into the jelly. This is a nutritive dish. 
 
 To pot Eels. 
 
 Skin and clean a large eel; dry and cut it into pieces 
 about four inches in length; season these with beaten mace, 
 pepper, salt, and a little sal prunel pounded fine. Lay the 
 pieces in a pan, and just cover them with clarified butter; 
 bake them half an hour in a quick oven, according to the 
 size of the eel. When done, take out the fish, and lay it in 
 a cloth to drain till cold; and then season it as before, and 
 lay it close in the pot. Take off the butter it was baked in, 
 set it in a dish before the fire, and when melted pour it over 
 the potted eel. 
 
PIKE, OR JACK 
 To boil Pike . 
 
 Having cleared the fish of the gills and entrails, make a 
 forcemeat of chopped oysters, the crumb of half a roll, a 
 little lemon peel shreded fine, a piece of butter, the yelks 
 of two eggs, some sweet herbs, and season with salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg. Mix these well together, put the whole into 
 the belly of the fish, sew it up, and skewer it round. Pour 
 some hard water into a pan, with a little salt, and three or 
 four spoonfuls of vinegar, and when the liquor boils, put in 
 the fish, which, if it is of a moderate size, will be done ir 
 half an hour. Serve with oyster sauce separately, but firs' 
 pour a little on the fish. Garnish with pickled barberries. 
 
 To roast a Pike. 
 
 Scale and wash the fish, lard it with eels rolled in sweet 
 herbs and spicery, roast it at length, or fasten its tail into the 
 mouth, baste it with butter, and strew over it crumbs of bread. 
 Serve it up with anchovy or oyster sauce. 
 
 To hake Pike. 
 
 After cleaning and scaling it, open the fish near the throat, 
 and stuff it with a mixture of grated bread, anchovies, herbs, 
 salt, suet, oysters, mace, pepper, four yelks of eggs, and half 
 a pint of cream. When the fish is thoroughly filled, sew it 
 up, as before directed, and put some bits of butter over it 
 and send it to the oven. Se*ve with gravy, butter, and 
 anchovy. 
 
 To stew Pike. 
 
 Make a browning with butter and flour, and put it into 
 the pan, with a pint of red wine, four cloves, twelve small 
 onions parboiled, and some pepper and salt. Cut the fish 
 n pieces, and stew the whole gently. When done, take it 
 ait, and add to the sauce two anchovies, and a spoonful of 
 japers chopped small. Boil it a few minutes, and pour it 
 over the pike. Garnish with fried bread. 
 
 To fry Pike. 
 
 Bone the pike; cut the fillets in thin pieces; dip t:\erri <v 
 
276 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY 
 
 egg and crumbs of bread, fry in hot fat; serve anchovy or 
 lobster sauce. 
 
 N. B. Carp, tench, and trout are fried the same Ray. 
 
 CARP. 
 
 To boil Carp. 
 
 In killing the fish, save the blood, and have ready some 
 good beef gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt, mace, and onions. 
 Having boiled the carp, and strained the gravy, put the 
 fish into it; then set it on a slow fire for fifteen minutes, and 
 thicken with a large piece of butter rolled in flour; or make 
 your sauce thus:—take the liver, with three anchovies, a little 
 parsley, thyme, and an onion; chop them all together, then 
 take half a pint of white wine, four spoonfuls of vinegar, and 
 add thereto the blood. Stew the whole gently, and put it to 
 the fish, which has been boiled in water, salt, and a pint 
 more of wine. Care must be taken that it is not done too 
 much, after the addition of the sauce. 
 
 To fry Carp. 
 
 Lay the fish, after washing it, to dry; then flour, and fry it 
 of a light brown. Do the same with crumbs of bread, and the 
 roe. On taking out the fish, set it to drain, and prepare the 
 anchovy sauce with lemon juice. Garnish with bread, the 
 roe, and slices of lemon. 
 
 To stew Carp. 
 
 Bleed a brace of middling-sized fish into some claret or 
 red port, and stir the whole well all the time. After cleaning 
 and scalding, but not washing the carp, put them into a stew- 
 pan, cover them with water, and throw in a handful of salt, 
 some whole pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs, a large onion, a 
 little horse-radish, and lemon peel, with some white wine 
 vinegar, and stew them slowly. When done, take the pan 
 off, and cover it close. Then, for sauce, take some of the 
 liquor in which the fish were stewed, and add to it two an- 
 
CARP. 
 
 277 
 
 chovies, some whole pepper, powdered mace, horse-radish, 
 lemon peel, and a small onion. Boil the whole till the an¬ 
 chovies are dissolved, and put in the blood and wine, with two 
 spoonfuls of rich gravy. When it boils up, strain off the 
 liquor, and having thickened it with flour and butter, pour it 
 over the carp. Garnish with slices of lemon, fried sippets of 
 bread, and barberries. In Germany, a substitute for wine is 
 made of strong ale or beer, with grated gingerbread, and some 
 colouring - . 
 
 German method of dressing Carp. 
 
 Take a live carp of about three pounds, and bleed it into 
 a stew-pan, then scale it, and take out the entrails, which, 
 with the exception of the gall, may be converted to food. 
 Having opened the maw, and washed it, cut the roe in pieces, 
 of which, with the rest of the internal parts, make a soup, 
 either rich or maigre, according to circumstances. In the 
 former case, use gravy or strong beef broth, with herbs, 
 spicery, and flour for thickening. When the dish is for 
 maigre days, as Lent, take the broth made of some other fish; 
 and pass it through a sieve, adding thereto a bundle of sweet 
 herbs, and a due seasoning of spices. This is the first dish, 
 and for the second, or stew, you may slit the carp quite 
 through the head to the tail along the back-bone. When 
 the head is cut off, with a good shoulder, the largest part of 
 the body, containing the bone, is divided into three pieces, 
 which, with the half of the head, are put into the blood in the 
 pan, and dressed as before directed, either with a glass or two 
 of Rhenish wine, or double the quantity of ale, a little grated 
 gingerbread, and sometimes only a small portion of vinegar, 
 adding sweet herbs and spicery according to taste. This 
 dish is usually served with lemon juice. The third dish con¬ 
 sists of the remaining half of the head and body, divided in 
 the same manner as for the stew, and dredged with flour, 
 then fried brown and crisp, in oil or clarified butter. 
 
 To hake Carp. 
 
 Clean a brace of carp, and lay them in a buttered pan, 
 season with cloves, nutmeg, mace, black and white pepper, 
 sweet herbs, one onion, and one anchovy; then pour in a 
 
278 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 bottle of white wine, and send them to the oven. Let them 
 bake an hour, and when done, lay them in a dish, w'hich must 
 be set over some boiling water, and kept covered. Pour the 
 liquor in which the fish were baked into a saucepan, boil it 
 a few minutes, strain it off, and add thereto half a pound 
 of butter rolled in flour; let it boil, and keep it stirring. 
 Squeeze in half a lemon, and put in some salt; pour the 
 sauce over the carp, lay the roes round the dish, and garnish 
 with slices of lemon. 
 
 TENCH. 
 
 To boil Tench. 
 
 Put the fish into the water when of a boiling heat, with 
 some salt, an onion cut in slices, some parsley, and a little 
 milk. When done enough, put the fish into a soup dish, 
 and pour over it a little of the liquor it was boiled in, with 
 the parsley and onions. Serve it with melted butter and 
 parsley. Some persons put perch and tench into cold water, 
 and boil them gradually, then serve with melted butter 
 and soy. 
 
 Tench boiled in Wine. 
 
 Cover them with white wine; add one onion, a small bunch 
 of sweet herbs; boil them ten minutes, strain off the liquor, 
 and serve half a pint of white sauce over them, quite hot; 
 season with pepper and salt, and the squeeze of half a lemon. 
 
 To fry Tench. 
 
 Split them along the backs, and raise the flesh from the 
 bone, cut the skin across at the head and tail, take it off, 
 and remove the bone. Next mince the fish, with mushrooms, 
 chives, and parsley, salt, pepper, mace, nutmeg, and herbs. 
 Mix these together, pound them in a mortar, with crumbs of 
 bread soaked in cream, the yelks of three or four eggs, and 
 a little butter. With this, stuff the rest of the fish, and fry 
 them in clarified butter, strewing over them some flour. 
 When brown, take them out, and lay them before the fire. 
 Pour the fat from the pan, and then melt in it some butter 
 
CRAYFISH. 
 
 279 
 
 and flour, keeping it stirred till brown, after which, add there¬ 
 to half a pint of white wine. Stir these well, put in half a 
 pint of boiling water, an onion, cloves, sweet herbs, and mace. 
 Cover them close, and stew gently for a quarter of an hour; 
 then strain off the liquor, put the whole in again, with two 
 spoonfuls of catsup, an ounce of truffles or morels boiled 
 tender in half a pint of water, mushrooms, and half a pint of 
 oysters. Pour the sauce over the fish, and let them lie in 
 it till thoroughly hot; then take them out, put them into 
 another dish, and serve them with the sauce. Garnish with 
 sliced lemon. 
 
 Perch 
 
 May be dressed exactly in the same manner as directed 
 for tench. 
 
 Gudgeons 
 
 Must be fried very dry and of a fine pale brown—they are 
 much used as garnish for other fish, and are sometimes eaten 
 alone with butter either cold or melted. 
 
 Dutch Water Sauche 
 
 Is prepared in the following manner:—take six small 
 flounders, six eels, and six perch, put them in two quarts of 
 thin broth to cover, with two handfuls of parsley, picked from 
 the stalks; boil and cut six roots of Hamburgh parsley, ten¬ 
 der, and put in with them; when the fish are done serve all 
 together in a tureen, with plenty of bread and butter, cut. 
 
 N. B. Any fresh water fish may be done separately this way. 
 
 Crayfish. 
 
 These form a pretty dish for breakfasts, luncheons, or 
 supper. They should be boiled as soon as possible after 
 being taken, otherwise they spend themselves and become 
 poor and watery. The following is the best method of boiling 
 them •—Over a brisk fire have a large tin saucepan of water, 
 the moment it fast boils throw in the fish with a large hand¬ 
 ful of salt, (less or more in proportion to the number of fish,) 
 put the lid on instantly; make it boil up as quickly as possi¬ 
 ble ; the moment it does so take off the lid, keep them fast 
 
280 
 
 COMPOUND COOKEItV. 
 
 boiling from three to five minutes according to the size of tne 
 fish; when done, they will be of a fine bright scarlet. Strait 
 them off, wipe immediately with a diy cloth, and if required 
 to look particularly nice, rub each fish with your finger dipped 
 in salad oil; spread them in tiers round and round a dish with 
 the tails towards the middle, and garnish thickly with parsley. 
 
 walton’s directions. 
 
 The following curious directions for dressing fresh water 
 
 O O 
 
 fish of every kind, are extracted from Walton’s Angler, and 
 they prove him to have been no less skilled in preparing fish 
 for the table than in enticing them to the hook. 
 
 To roast a Chub. 
 
 First scale him, then wash him clean and then take out his 
 guts; and to that end make the hole as little and as near to 
 his gills as you may conveniently, and especially make clean 
 his throat from the grass and weeds that are usually in it; for 
 if that be not very clean it will make him to taste very sour. 
 Having so done, put some sweet herbs into his belly, and then 
 tie him up with two or three splinters to a spit and roast him, 
 basted often with vinegar, or rather with verjuice and butter, 
 with good store of salt mixed with it; this method dries up 
 the fluid watery humour with which chubs abound. But take 
 this rule with you that a chub should be dressed presently 
 after being caught, and not washed after he is gutted. 
 
 To broil a Chub. 
 
 When you have scaled him, and cut off* his tail and fins 
 and washed him very clean, then chine or slit him through 
 the middle as a salt fish is usually cut. Then give him three 
 or four cuts or scotches on the back with your knife and broil 
 on charcoal or wood fire that is free from smoke; and all the 
 time he is a broiling baste him with the best sweet butter, and 
 a good store of salt mixed with it, and to this add a little 
 thyme out exceeding small or bruised in the butter.* 
 
 • We should rather recommend the use of a very small quantity of 
 
EXTRACTS FROM WALTON, 
 
 28 ' 
 
 To roast a Pike or large Jack. 
 
 First open your pike at the gills, and if need be cut also a 
 little slit towards the belly; out of these take the guts, and 
 keep the liver, which you are to shred very small with thyme, 
 sweet marjoram, and winter savoury; to these put some 
 pickled oysters and some anchovies, two or three, both these 
 last whole, for the anchovies will melt, and the oysters should 
 not: to these you must add a pound of sweet butter, which 
 you are to mix with the herbs that are shred, and let them all 
 be well salted. If the pike be more than a yard long, then 
 you may put into these herbs more than a pound, or if he be 
 less, then less butter will suffice. These being thus mixed 
 with a blade or two of mace, must be put into the pike’s belly 
 and then his belly so sewed up as to keep all the butter in his 
 belly if it be possible, if not then as much as you possibly 
 can; but take not off the scales. Then you are to thrust 
 the spit through his mouth out at his tail; and then take four, 
 five, or six split sticks or very thin laths, and a convenient 
 quantity of tape or filleting. These laths are to be tied round 
 about the pike’s body from his head to his tail, and the tape 
 tied somewhat thick to prevent his breaking or falling off from 
 the spit. Let him be roasted very leisurely, often basted with 
 claret wine, and anchovies and butter mixed together, and 
 also with what moisture falls from him into the pan: when you 
 have roasted him sufficiently, you are to hold under him (when 
 v T ou unwind or cut the tape that ties him) such a dish as you 
 purpose to eat him out of, and let him fall into it with the 
 sauce that is roasted in his belly, and by this means the pike 
 will be kept unbroken and complete; then to the sauce which 
 was within, and also that sauce in the pan, you are to add a 
 sufficient quantity of the best butter, and to squeeze the juice 
 of three or four oranges. Lastly, you may either put into 
 the pike with the oysters two cloves of garlic, and take it 
 
 butter with salt for basting, and that the shred thyme, with a spoonful of 
 catsup, should be made hot in the dish in which the chubs are to be 
 served, and some butter rubbed over them in the dish when done. This, 
 on experiment, is pronounced an improvement on Walton’s directions. 
 
 2 o 
 
282 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 whole out when the pike is cut off the spit; or to give the 
 sauce a liautgout , let the dish into which you let the pike fall 
 be rubbed with it. The using or not of this garlic is left tfl 
 your discretion. 
 
 N. B. This dish of meat is too good for any but anglers 
 or very honest men ; and I trust you will prove both, and 
 therefore 1 have trusted you with this secret. 
 
 To dress a Carp. 
 
 Take a carp, alive, if possible, scour him and rub him clean 
 with salt and water, but scale him not; then open him and put 
 him with his blood and liver, which you must save when you 
 open him, into a small pot or kettle. Then take sweet mar¬ 
 joram, thyme, parsley, of each half a handful, a sprig of rose¬ 
 mary and another of savoury; bind them into two or three 
 small bundles, and put them to your carp with four or five 
 w r hole onions, twenty pickled oysters, and three anchovies. 
 Then pour upon your carp as much claret wine as will only 
 cover him, and season your claret well with salt, cloves, and 
 mace, and the rinds of oranges and lemons: that done, cover 
 your pot and set it on a quick fire till it be sufficiently boiled; 
 then take out the carp, and lay it with the broth upon the 
 dish, and pour upon it a quarter of a pound of the best fresh 
 butter, melted and beaten with half a dozen spoonfuls of the 
 broth, the yelks of two or three eggs, and some of the herbs 
 sliced. Garnish your dish with lemons, and so serve it up; 
 and much good do you. 
 
 How to make an Eel a most excellent dish of Meat. 
 
 First wash him in water and salt, then pull off his skin be¬ 
 low his vent orjiavel and not much farther; having done that, 
 take out his guts as clean as you can, but wash him not; then 
 give him three or four scotches with a knife, and then put 
 into his belly and those scotches, sweet herbs, an anchovy, 
 and a little nutmeg grated or cut very small; and your herbs 
 and anchovies also must be cut very small, and mixed with 
 good butter and salt. Having done this, then pull his skin 
 over him all but his head, which you are to cut off, to the end 
 you may tie his skin about that part where Iris head grew, and 
 
STURGEON. 
 
 283 
 
 it must be so tied as to keep his moisture within his skin ; and 
 having done this, tie him with tape or packthread to a spit, and 
 roast him leisurely, and baste him with salt and water till his 
 skin breaks, and then with butter; and having roasted him 
 enough, let what was put into his belly and what he drips be 
 his sauce. 
 
 To dress a Trout or Grayling. 
 
 Take your trout, wash and dry him with a clean napkin, 
 then open him, and having taken out his guts and all the 
 blood, wipe him very clean within, but wash him not, and give 
 him three scotches with a knife to the bone on one side only. 
 After which take a kettle, and put in as much hard stale beer, 
 (but it must not be dead) vinegar, and a little white wine and 
 water as will cover the fish you intend to boil. Then throw 
 into the liquor a good quantity of salt, the rind of a lemon, a 
 handful of sliced horseradish root, with a handsome little fan-- 
 got of rosemary, thyme, and winter savoury. Then set your 
 kettle upon a quick fire of wood, and let your liquor boil up 
 to the height before you put in your fish, and then, if there be 
 many, put them in one by one, that they may not so cool the 
 liquor as to make it fall; and whilst your fish is boiling, beat 
 up the butter for your sauce with a ladle full or two of the 
 liquor it is boiling in, and being boiled enough, immediately 
 pour the liquor from the fish, and being laid in a dish, pour 
 your butter upon it, and strewing it plentifully over with 
 shaved horseradish and a little pounded ginger. Garnish your 
 sides of your dish, and the fish itself with a sliced lemon or 
 two, and serve it up. 
 
 A grayling is also to be dressed exactly after the same 
 manner, saving that he is to be scaled, which a trout never is; 
 and that must be done, either with one’s nails, or very lightly 
 and carefully with a knife, for fear of bruising the fish. And 
 note, that these kinds of fish, a trout especially, if he is not 
 eaten within four or five hours after he is taken, is worth 
 
234 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 BROTHS, SOUPS AND GRAVIES. 
 
 General Remarks. 
 
 The preparation of broths, soups, and gravies, is a very 
 important branch of culinary skill, and in equal requisition on 
 the grounds of health, economy, and luxury. As the diet of 
 young children, of aged persons, and of invalids, it is essential 
 that they should be simple and nutritious.—As an article of 
 consumption in plain families and where frugality is an object, 
 or for those who adopt this method of contributing to the re¬ 
 lief of their poor neighbours, it is important that the cook 
 should be aware of everir? article that may be turned to ac¬ 
 count, as also how to produce the most palatable and nourish¬ 
 ing food from the least expensive articles.—And as soups form 
 an indispensable article in every first course on the nrost 
 splendid tables, and gravies an essential addition to almost 
 every dish, every cook should be familiar with the principles 
 of combining and preparing the ingredients so as to secure a 
 proper consistency of the whole, and to furnish every desir¬ 
 able variety of flavour. 
 
 As failure is very frequent in this branch of kitchen eco¬ 
 nomy, the attention of the reader is particularly invited to the 
 following remarks, which may be relied on as the results of 
 long observation and experience. 
 
 1. Broth should be made of prime meat, juicy and fresh 
 killed ; and should be boiled no longer than is necessary to 
 make the meat perfectly tender and fit to be eaten. Thus 
 waste is avoided and a more agreeable flavour secured—it is 
 
 cD 
 
 bad economy to buy coarse meat for broth, gravy, or soup; 
 draw out all the goodness, and then throw it away. 
 
 2. As to the different qualities of meats used for broth, 
 beef is the most strengthening, but is more heating and 
 astringent than mutton or veal. Veal is the most gelatinous 
 
BROTHS. SOUPS, AND GRAVIES. 
 
 285 
 
 and emollient. Mutton is a medium to both, and is gene¬ 
 rally recommended when beef would be considered too stimu¬ 
 lating, and when an irritable state of the bowels would render 
 veal improper. When there is no objection or preference on 
 either of these grounds, the flavour of the broth is improved, 
 and its nourishing qualities enhanced by being drawn from the 
 several kinds of meat; for this purpose little trimming bits of 
 beef, veal, and mutton, may be got at the butcher’s, generally 
 very cheap, or trimmed off the various joints that are brought 
 into the house, care being taken to avoid their becoming stale, 
 by which, as has already been observed, the pieces are wasted 
 and the flavoured injured. For gravies and soups, if required 
 to be rich and brown, beef is by all means to be preferred ; 
 if to be white, veal is preferable, especially the gristly parts of 
 veal, knuckle, feet, &c. 
 
 3. As to the parts of meat to be chosen—there is far more 
 richness and nourishment in broth made from the hinder than 
 the forequarter of the animal, especially the loin, and from the 
 lean of fat meat; but when jelly is desired, the feet, knuckles, 
 and head are to be preferred, and foi very mild broth, the 
 scrag of mutton or veal. 
 
 4. All fat, marrow, and skin should be carefully removed 
 before boiling. If time allows, the bones should be first 
 boiled down separately, strained offj and all fat carefully re¬ 
 moved from the liquor when cold: afterwards the meat done 
 in the same liquor. The liquor in which meat has been boil¬ 
 ed may be used with advantage as a beginning for soup or 
 gravy; for broth, no other is fit than that of fowls, veal, or 
 mutton, carefully skimmed from fat, and poured clear from 
 sediment. For soup, the liquor in which beef or pork has 
 been boiled, if not too salt, or unsuitably flavoured with vege¬ 
 tables, answers very well. 
 
 5. Some kinds of soup are improved by rewarming; this 
 will be spoken of hereafter ; but for an invalid, broth* or beef 
 
 * It is a common direction to leave broth or beef tea to become cold 
 :'n order to removing the fat, and to rewarm as occasion requires ; but 
 this end may be effectually answered, first, by using only lean meat; 
 and secondly by removing the fat while hot, with a very small skimming 
 dish (like those used in dairies only not larger round than a small tea. 
 
283 
 
 COMPOUND OOOKEKY. 
 
 toa is never so delicately flavoured slid nourishing, as when 
 used immediately that it is done enough, therefore, only as 
 much should be made as is likely to be used at once. 
 
 6. The vessels used for making broth, &c. should be kept 
 particularly nice. Earthenware is on some accounts pre¬ 
 ferable to metal, especially as they may be kept boiling at a 
 less degree of heat; but there is a difficulty in getting earthen 
 vessels the lids of which shut close. 
 
 7. As to proportion, a pound of meat independent of bone 
 should be allowed to a quart of water; if very rich gravy be 
 required, a rather larger proportion of meat. The meat 
 should be cut in small pieces. 
 
 8. As to boilino;. Let the vessel at first be set over a 
 moderate fire, or at such a distance as to heat the water with¬ 
 out causing it to boil; let it continue so for half an hour at 
 least. Then stir up the fire, or place the vessel nearer, and 
 when it boils throw in a little common salt for the purpose ot 
 separating the blood and slime that coagulates under the form 
 of scum; let it boil briskly until the whole of this has sepa¬ 
 rated. It is generally recommended to take off the scum as 
 fast as it appears; but it is perhaps better to keep stirring it 
 down as long as it rises, and leaving it at the bottom of the 
 vessel in form of sediment. When the scum has s parated, 
 the broth or soup should be kept at a gentle simmer '.ill done 
 enough ; but by no means suffer it to stand so far aside as to 
 become chill, or even cease boiling gently. If it be desired 
 to do soup partly, but not sufficiently, when it has boiled as 
 long as is intended, let it be immediately emptied into an 
 earthen or stone vessel and set away to become perfectly cold. 
 Nothing is more injurious to the flavour both of soup and 
 meat, than to keep them between hot and cold. This should 
 be a general rule never to have your soup near the fire, or 
 even in the saucepan a minute longer than it is actually in a 
 state of progress. Before herbs or savoury spices are added, 
 let the liquor be carefully poured off from sediment, or 
 strained through a hair sieve and tammis cloth. 
 
 9. As to adding the different ingredients, all vegetables 
 
 0U ]O an< l afterwards with a piece of clean blotting paper. By thi latter 
 every particle may be clea'-p-i -w 
 
BROTHS, SOUrS, AND GRAVIES. 
 
 287 
 
 having first been most carefully picked and washed, should 
 he put to the liquor boiling , allowing a sufficient time for them 
 to boil tender and incorporate with the soup, but not more, or 
 they are apt to give the soup a strong and unpleasant flavour. 
 Carrots and some others which require long boiling, and the 
 flavour of which would be too powerful, had better be first par¬ 
 boiled in water; together with the herbs a little salt should be 
 put in which will cause scum to rise; this must be carefully re¬ 
 moved. Parsley requires but a very few minutes to boil, and 
 should not be allowed more than is necessary, otherwise it is 
 discoloured: the same may be observed of marigold flowers, a 
 favourite addition in some places. It must be admitted 
 that when well concocted, properly freed from fat, scum, and 
 sediment, and when the milky whiteness of the turnips, the 
 lively green of the parsley, and the bright orange colour of the 
 marigold are preserved, nothing can present a more pleasing 
 and inviting aspect than a tureen of “ proper country broth,” as 
 it is often denominated. Seasoning of pepper, or other spice, 
 if whole, will require a considerable time to give out their 
 flavour, if finely powdered a short period will suffice. 
 
 Thickenings of various kinds, whether for gravy or wh.te 
 soup, should be no longer a time on the fire than is necessary 
 to bring the whole to a proper consistence; but of these parti¬ 
 culars directions will be given under their respective heads. 
 
 Dried herbs (as mint or parsley) should be merely reduced 
 to a fine powder, and strewed over the soup in the tureen. 
 
 10. Stock, which in large families, or where there are fre¬ 
 quent and sudden demands, should be constantly kept: both 
 brown and white, keeps longer when in a state of native sim¬ 
 plicity, and free from additions of vegetables or seasoning; 
 these things have always a tendency to acidity, and cause the 
 stock, if kept long, to part and become watery. In this mat¬ 
 ter, however, the cook must be regulated by the state of the 
 weather, and the occasions that may probably arise. For 
 keeping stock, stone or unglazed earthen vessels are the best. 
 They should on no account be covered over until perfectly 
 cold. Nor should the mass be disturbed for the removal of 
 the fat, until wanted to use. Stiff jelly stock when left un- 
 
283 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 disturbed will keep a considerable time in the vessel into which 
 it was at first poured ; but when once the jelly has been 
 broken, it is then advisable to rewarm the remainder and put 
 in a clean vessel. 
 
 11. Great care should be taken in rewarming to avoid the 
 soup becoming smoky or burning to the saucepan, to either 
 of which it is more liable when rewarming than on first doing. 
 With this view it is very desirable to warm them by plung¬ 
 ing the vessel in which they are contained inco boiling water. 
 If this cannot be done, they must at least be warmed over a 
 clear fire and with the lid close. If no fresh ingredients are 
 added to render boiling necessary, it is desirable only to heat 
 them through, by removing from the fire just before they 
 boil up, and suffering to remain a few minutes on the hod or 
 over boiling water until ready to serve. 
 
 The following list of ingredients commonly used for thick¬ 
 ening, flavouring, and colouring soups, will perhaps afford 
 some assistance to the inexperienced cook: 
 
 For Thickening . 
 
 Peas, whole or split. 
 
 Barley, pearl or Scotch. 
 
 Oat grotts and meal, fresh or 
 browned. 
 
 Flour, generally with butter. 
 
 Potatoe mucilage. 
 
 Bread crust, toast, or raspings. 
 
 Rice, whole or ground, gene¬ 
 rally the former. 
 
 The two last articles are 
 the use of invalids. 
 
 Vermicilly. 
 
 Isinglass. 
 
 Ivory dust. 
 
 Eggs, yelk or white, 01 
 both. 
 
 Cream. 
 
 Sago. 
 
 Tapioca. 
 
 chiefly confined to preparations los 
 
 For Flavouring. 
 
 Black spices or white pepper, Cayenne pepper. 
 
 whole and ground. Nutmeg. 
 
 Jamaica ditto. Cloves. 
 
LIIOTU3, SOUPS, AND GRAVIES. 
 
 2& J 
 
 Cinnamon. Gunner, 
 
 Mace. Currie powder. 
 
 ’I hcse should be kept in separate vials well corked and la¬ 
 beled. In families where they are in constant use, it may 
 save trouble to have the following mixtures always at 
 hand. 
 
 For broivn Soups and Seasonings of Poultry, Game and 
 
 Fricassees, fyc. 
 
 Black pepper, half an oz. Cinnamon, 2 drachms. 
 
 Jamaica pepper, ditto. Cloves, 1 drachm. 
 
 Nutmeg, ditto. 
 
 To be dried, finely powdered and mixed. 
 
 For white Soups, Fricassees, Sfc. 
 
 White pepper, half an oz. Mace, 1 drachm. 
 
 Nutmeg, 2 drachms. Dried lemon-peel grated, ditto. 
 
 Black pepper, cayenne, ginger, and cinnamon always to be 
 kept separately, as for many common purposes black pepper 
 is used without any mixture of the more expensive spices; 
 the flavour of either cinnamon or ginger is not always agree¬ 
 able or suitable; and cayenne pepper should not he mixed 
 with the general seasoning, but scattered either into the 
 tureen, or if in the stew-pan, only just before serving. 
 
 Veg e tables. 
 
 Onions. 
 
 Shallots. 
 
 Garlic. 
 
 Leeks. 
 
 Gives or cluvcs.* 
 
 Carrots. 
 
 Turnips. 
 
 Celery. 
 
 Celcria (turnip rooted celery.) 
 Parsley. 
 
 Thyme.f 
 Marjoram. 
 
 \\ inter savoury. 
 
 Tarragon. 
 
 Basil. 
 
 Marigold. 
 
 Mint. 
 
 Tomata or love-appl s. 
 Mushrooms, truffles, am 
 morels. 
 
 * When a milder flavour of the onion kind is desired, chives vv ill b< 
 found very useful, either fur soups, or seasonings of duck, goose, or pork 
 These should be very sparingly used: .they give a v?ry strong, and 
 tfc many paiates an unpleasant, flavour. 
 
 a 13 2 p 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY 
 
 
 Vinegars.—Chili, Shallot. 
 Garlic, ike. 
 
 Lemon and Seville orange 
 juice, and lind. 
 
 For Colouring. 
 
 Port wine. Catsup 
 
 Browned flour, prepared by drying flour on a tin or flat 
 plate, in an oven or before the fire, until it have acquired 
 the brownness desired. 
 
 Toasted bread: for this purpose the bread should be toast¬ 
 ed very slowly until it is quite hard and of a brown approach¬ 
 ing to black, but by no means burnt. 
 
 Clarified butter ,—thus prepared. Cut slices of butter, toss 
 them about in the frying-pan until they acquire a fine amber 
 colour; skim off the frothy bubbles that float on the surface, 
 then from a dredging box shake in flour, moderately browned, 
 stir it briskly and incessantly till it becomes perfectly smooth 
 and of the consistence of stiff batter; it will require stirring 
 at least a quarter of an hour; then pour off into small jars eael 
 to contain the quantity required for once using. It will keef 
 ten days, or even a fortnight, if the surface be not broker.; 
 but the fresher it is used the better. 
 
 Browning the meat of which the soup is made, by putting 
 it in the stew-pan at first without any water and with a small 
 quantity of butter, to be well shaken over the fire for a few 
 minutes: then add the water. 
 
 Frying the onions or carrots in butter until they become 
 crisp and brown. 
 
 Sugar-browning , which may be prepared in the following 
 manner; but which is by all means to be avoided when tbo 
 end can be answered without. Half a pound of the he? 
 refined sugar very finely powdered, and two ounces of fresf < 
 ratter, to be set over the fire in a very nice clean frying-pan 
 and as they dissolve stirred together with a wooden spatula 
 W hen perfectly dissolved and beginning to boil violently, re¬ 
 move the pan a little higher from the fire—then return it, 
 and go on doing so until the mixture lias acquired a rich darn 
 brawn colour. When cold, skim and bottle for use. Le 
 
 Wine.—Port and .Sherry. 
 Vatsup.—VI ushroom and 
 Walnut. 
 
SIMPLE BROTHS, &C. 2‘Jl 
 
 careful to remo\e the pan steadily, as the butter is. apt to oil 
 if shaken about. 
 
 Having made these preliminary observations, we proceed to 
 detail the various methods of preparing particular articles, 
 which for facility of reference we shall class under the following 
 heads : Broth,—Gravy, and Vegetable, Soups,—Fish Soup, 
 —Mouthful Soups, or Soups a-la-Fourchette,—White Soups, 
 —Gravies and Sauces, precedence under each head being 
 given to those which upon repeated trial we prefer and adopt. 
 
 SIMPLE BROTHS, OR JUICE, OR TEA OF MEAT. 
 
 Beef Tea . 
 
 Chop a pound of lean beef quite fine as for mincemeat; 
 put it into a saucepan and pour on it a quart of boiling water; 
 add a crust of bread toasted very brown and a little salt; 
 let it boil very fast for twenty minutes, stirring in the scum as 
 it rises. When done, strain through a sieve. The juice of 
 veal or mutton may be extracted in the same manner. 
 
 This mode of preparing will be found by far the most nutri¬ 
 tious and agreeable to the delicate stomach of an invalid; and 
 this, it is to be supposed, is the principal object; if however it 
 be desired to make the best of the meat, let a spoonful or two 
 of the gravy be left in, and add a spoonful or two of water, a 
 little flour rubbed smooth, and a little pepper and salt, and 
 simmer it a minute or two; it will prove a very tolerable mince, 
 and all waste be avoided. 
 
 Chicken broth . 
 
 For this, it is commonly directed to cut up a chicken in 
 joints and stew it down; and those persons who are over bur¬ 
 dened with money may, if they choose, take this method of 
 getting rid of it: those who are satisfied with a good article 
 produced at a moderate expense, will find the following an¬ 
 swer every purpose.— 
 
292 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Save the liquor in which fowls have been boiled, add to it 
 the bones as they come from table, with the heads and feet 
 nicely scalded and cleaned, a toasted crust of bread, and 
 if approved a blade of mace and an onion : let it boil briskly 
 till the bones become white and dry, then strain off. 
 
 Chicken’s heads and feet may be got at the poulterer’s for a 
 mere trifle, four, and sometimes six sets for three pence, which 
 will make a quart of excellent broth. They must be very 
 nicely cleaned and separated from blood. 
 
 A very excellent and nutritious broth may be made in the 
 following manner :—The heads and feet of lour fowls, one 
 pound of lean beef cut in pieces the breadth of three fingers; 
 two quarts of boiling water, an onion, or turnip, or both if 
 approved; a toasted crust of bread, a little salt; boil it briskly 
 for forty minutes or an hour, either removing the scum or stir¬ 
 ring it down. Strain off one quart of broth; season and 
 thicken what remains in the saucepan as directed after mak¬ 
 ing beef-tea, and it will afford a relishing, nourishing, and 
 frugal meal. Those families who may not find it necessary 
 to eat the meat of which broth has been made, are intreated 
 not to scorn these hints of frugality; but to look around, and 
 they will be sure to find some poor neighbour sick or lying-in, 
 to whose comfort and recovery such a meal would materially 
 contribute. 
 
 A more expensive Chicken Broth. 
 
 Cut a chicken in joints; set it on in two quarts of cold water* 
 when it boils add a little salt, and separate the scum: when 
 no more scum rises, add a few pepper corns, a blade of mace, 
 a few sprigs of parsley, and a quart of good beef broth ; boil 
 briskly one hour, carefully removing all fat and scum, then 
 strain and serve with sippets of toasted bread. 
 
 N. B. If approved, it may be thickened with vermicelli, 
 or rice, as will be hereafter directed. 
 
 A very nourishing Broth of Fowl with Veal. 
 
 The knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal with very little 
 meat to it, (or four calves’ feet will answer nearly as well,') an 
 old fowl, four shank bones of mutton well soaked and bruised, 
 
SIMPLE BROTHS, && 
 
 293 
 
 two or three blades of mace, a few pepper-corns, an onion, a 
 piece of crust of bread, and three quarts of cold water; when 
 it boils, skim it till the scum ceases to rise, then stop the vessel 
 down closely and let it simmer four hours, as slowly as possible 
 without ceasing to boil. Or it may be baked the same length 
 of time; but in this case rather more water may be allowed to 
 begin with. It will require four hours boiling or baking; 
 when strained off, the fat may be either removed immediately 
 or left till cold, when it will come off in a solid cake. 
 
 A clear Broth for long keeping. 
 
 Take the mouse-buttock of beef, and the bones of a 
 Knuckle of veal, and a few shanks of mutton which have been 
 broken, and the marrow removed ; put the whole into a deep 
 pan, with as much water as will cover them. Then lay over 
 the top a stiff common paste. Bake it three hours, when the 
 meat w r ill be tender and yet juicy, and with the pie-crust will 
 make a good plain meal; strain off the broth, and keep it in a 
 cool place. 
 
 Broth of mixed Meats. 
 
 Put two pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag of veal, 
 and one of scrag of mutton, into a very nice clean saucepan 
 with five quarts of water; simmer till reduced to three—remove 
 the fat, and serve either with the meat or separately; a few 
 pepper-corns, an onion, and a sprig of parsley, thyme, and 
 marigold, may be added if approved. 
 
 A very nourishing Broth. 
 
 Boil two pounds of loin of mutton (perfectly cleared from 
 fat) with a large handful of chervil in two quarts of water, 
 till reduced to one. 
 
 N. B. This broth is particularly serviceable to invalids 
 who are suffering from any kind of weakness in the back. 
 
 A quick-made Broth. 
 
 Take a rib or two of a loin or neck of mutton, or the 
 thump bone of the loin with what meat belongs to it, or the 
 flap of the loin (which never roasts well;) as far as possible re¬ 
 move all fat and skin, set it on with warm water in the jno- 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 291 
 
 portion of a pint ancl a half to a pound of meat, a bit of toast¬ 
 ed bread, or crust, and an onion if approved; let it boil very 
 quickly, carefully skimming it, and in less than half an hour 
 the broth will be excellent; the process may be somewhat ex¬ 
 pedited by beating the meat or cutting it in thin slices. If 
 broth is wanted yet more quickly, let it boil fast as long as 
 you can, then carefully skim and strain it off, and stir into the 
 bason a few spoonfuls of cold gravy of roast beef or mutton 
 perfectly freed from fat; this will enrich the broth, and give it 
 as good a flavour as if it had boiled much longer; but the 
 broth must not be set on the fire aftei the gravy is added, or 
 it will be apt to curdle. 
 
 Shank Broth or Jelly, very cheap and noarislung 
 
 Soak twelve mutton shanks four hours, then brush and 
 scour them very clean, put them into a saucepan with one 
 pound of lean beef, a crust of bread made very brown by 
 toasting, and an onion or any other flavouring herbs or spiees 
 that may be approved; add four quarts of water, and let it 
 simmer as gently as possible for five hours, then strain it off. 
 It will be a stiff jelly, and keep good several days. It may be 
 baked in a deep pan, allowing in this case rather more liquor 
 for boiling away. 
 
 Calves feet Broth. 
 
 Boil two calves’ feet, two ounces of veal, two of beef, the 
 crust of a penny loaf, half a sliced nutmeg, a few blades of 
 mace, and a little salt in three quarts of water till reduced to 
 three pints: strain and take off the fat. 
 
 Fish Broth 
 
 Is very nutritious and light of digestion. It may be made 
 of almost any kind of fish, the more thick skinned and glu¬ 
 tinous the better. The following is an excellent broth :—Halt 
 a pound of tench, or small eels or grigs; set them on with 
 three pints of water, an onion, a few pepper-corns and some 
 parsley ; let it simmer till the fish is broken and the liquor re¬ 
 duced one half; then add salt and strain it. Some people 
 like the addition of a spoonful of vinegar, and if the bowels 
 be not disordered there is no objection to it. 
 
SIMPLE BROTHS., Sro- gf}^ 
 
 Brown Stock, the basis of all Gravy Soups and Brown 
 
 Fricassees. 
 
 Cut the beef, from four to eight pounds, according to the 
 degree of strength and the quantity wanted, into thin slices; 
 score them roughly, and placing a thick slice of lean undress¬ 
 ed bacon, in a thick bottomed stew-pot, lay the meat over it, 
 with a few bits of butter, or a cupful of fresh gravy. Slice 
 over this, a carrot, a couple of onions, a little shalot, a head 
 of celery, and, if a highly flavoured gravy for ragouts be wanted, 
 a couple of bay leaves, and a bundle of sweet herbs of suitable 
 size. Let the stew-pot be deep, and very close covered. 
 Set it over a sharp fire to catch and brown; and shake it 
 occasionally to prevent the meat from sticking. When the 
 meat is browned on both sides, and the juices partially drawn 
 out, which will take about half an hour, put in the proper 
 quantity of boiling water, allowing a little for waste. Skim it 
 well,—check the boil with cold water, and skim it again and 
 again if needful; wipe the edges of the stew-pot and lid, and 
 covering close, let the gravy simmer for three hours by the 
 fire. Strain into an earthen or stone vessel, and keep it in a 
 dry cool place. 
 
 Another way. To prepare a great dinner, it is necessary 
 that a sufficient quantity of stock for soups and sauces should 
 be ready, for which purpose put into a large pot a piece of the 
 breast or rump of beef, with the dressings of any other sort 
 of meat you may have in preparation at the time for the re¬ 
 past ; veal, mutton, lamb, with the bones, neck, and feet of 
 the poultry and game, that may be prepared for removes. 
 Put the pot upon a moderate fire, not quite filled with water, 
 and skim it carefully; throw in a little cold water every time 
 you skim it, till it becomes perfectly limpid, for upon this 
 stock depends tbe'beauty of your soups and sauces: season it 
 with salt, two turnips, six carrots, six onions, one of which is 
 to be stuck with three cloves and a bunch of leeks, and let the 
 whole simmer slowly. When the piece of meat is cooked, 
 or nearly so, if it is to be served, put it into a stew-pan, and 
 pour ower it a little of the top of the stock; wet and wring a 
 doth, and run the stock through, which will theo be in readi¬ 
 ness to make soups, sauces, St c 
 
296 
 
 POUND COOKERY. 
 
 Another way. Take a knuckle of veal, and the same 
 weight or more of lean beef, (a gelatinous piece is best,) four 
 onions, two carrots, two turnips, two heads of celery, two blades 
 of mace, six white pepper-corns, two or three cloves, and a 
 quarter of a pound of good undressed lean gammon. Let 
 the meat be cut to pieces, and scored. Brown it over a quick 
 tire; add the water boiling, and skim it. When boiled 
 enough, let the soup settle for a few minutes on the hearth, 
 and strain through a jelly-bag, turning it back, if necessary, 
 till perfectly transparent. Unless the meat has been of very 
 inferior quality, or has been boiled to pulp, clearing with 
 whites of eggs will not be requisite. 
 
 Another way. Cut eight pounds of the lean part of a 
 knuckle of veal into small pieces, with two pounds of lean 
 ham, and an old fowl may be added. Put it into a stew-pan, 
 with one ounce of butter, three onions, two carrots, eight 
 mushrooms, one head of celery, one parsnip, a blade of mace, 
 and a quarter of a pint of water or broth ; let it stew with the 
 cover of the stew-pan on, till it catches at the bottom, and is 
 quite brown but not burnt; then add four quarts of beef 
 broth, and let it boil gently three hours, and strain it. 
 
 Another way. Wash a leg or a shin of beef very clean, 
 crack the bone in two or three places, (this you should desire 
 the butcher to do for you,) add thereto any trimmings you 
 have of meat, game, or poultry, (i. e. heads, necks, gizzards, 
 feet, &c.) and cover them with cold water; watch and stir it 
 up well from the bottom, and the moment it begins to simmer, 
 skim it carefully; your broth must be perfectly clear ana 
 limpid; then add some cold water, to make the remaining 
 scum rise, and skim it again; when the scum has done rising, 
 an d the surface of the broth is quite clear, put in one moder¬ 
 ate-sized carrot, a head of celery, two turnips, and two onions. 
 It should not have any taste of sweet herbs, spice, or garlic, 
 &c. Either of these flavours can easily be added immediately 
 after, if desired. Cover it close, set it bv the side of the 
 fire, and let it simmer very gently (so as not to waste the 
 broth) for four or five hours, or more, according to the weignt 
 ot the meat: strain it through a sieve into a clean and dry 
 stone pan, and set it in the coldest place you have. 
 
SIMPLE BROTHS, &C. 
 
 2m 
 
 Tiie French method of obtaining stock of the finest flavour 
 and witnout expense, is by stewing together in a large quan¬ 
 tity of liquor the various kinds of meat required for an en 
 tertainment, or perhaps for the consumption of several days, 
 each article is removed when done enough, with a sufficient 
 quantity of gravy for serving with it; and at the close the 
 stew-pot is found to contain a considerable quantity of rich 
 and finely flavoured stock for other purposes: an example of 
 this will be found in the second receipt here given for stock, 
 as also in the two following. 
 
 French Stock. 
 
 Take a proper tinned pot; heat it lightly and wipe it well; 
 put in a shank and a piece of a buttock of beef, a knuckle of 
 veal, a fowl, an old rabbit, or two old partridges, and about 
 six pints of stock; reduce it upon a quick fire till it becomes 
 a jelly, then add more stock, boil it on a quick fire and skim 
 it; season it with three turnips, three carrots, three onions, one 
 stuck with two or three cloves, a bunch of leeks, and celery; 
 put it then on the side of the grate, and let it simmer till it is 
 done enough : when the different meats of which it is com 
 posed are sufficiently cooked, they ought to be taken out, as 
 they may be dressed for successive tables; when readv take 
 
 j * • 
 
 off the fat, put it through a gauze search, or a linen cloth, first 
 wet and wrung. 
 
 Strong French Stock. 
 
 Put into a pot two knuckles of veal, a piece of a leg of 
 beef, a fowl, or an old cock, a rabbit, or two old partridges; 
 add a ladleful of soup, and stir it well: when it comes to a 
 jelly, put in a sufficient quantity of stock, and see that it is 
 clear: let it boil, skimming and refreshing it with water; 
 season it as the above: you may add, if you like, a clove of 
 garlic: let it then boil slowly or simmer four or five hours : 
 put it through a towel, and use it for mixing in sauces, or 
 clear soups. 
 
 White Stock , the basis of white Soups, and Fricassees. 
 
 This should he made principally of veal, either knuckle or 
 serag, or part of each ; it will be greatly enriched by the aadi- 
 b 13 2 2 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 299 
 
 tion of a scrag of mutton very carefully washed from the 
 blood and blanched two or three minutes. This is especially 
 necessary if the stock is principally made from calves’ feet. To 
 ten or twelve pounds of veal add one of lean ham or bacon ; 
 for flavour, the same herbs may be used as for brown stock, 
 or such of them as are approved; but carrots and green herbs 
 may be used sparingly, and toasted bread wholly avoided, on 
 account of spoiling the colour. The proportion of water and 
 length of time allowed, may be about the same as for brown 
 stock; when sufficiently done strain off through a sieve, keep¬ 
 ing back a little of the liquor as gravy for the meat, which 
 may be seasoned with pepper and salt, and served up. 
 
 White Stock . 
 
 Butter the bottom of a saucepan, and put into it some slices 
 of ham, four or five pounds of a leg of veal, two or three car¬ 
 rots, and as many onions; wet them with a ladleful of gravy 
 stock; make it sweat over a slow fire, and reduce it to jelly: 
 when it is of a fine yellow tint, take it off the fire, prick the 
 meat with the point of a knife to let the juice flow: cover and 
 let it sweat another quarter of an hour, and then put in a 
 sufficient quantity of strong stock : season it with parsley and 
 small onions, a clove of garlic stock with a clove; boil and 
 skim, and put it to simmer on the edge of the grate; and 
 when enough, skim it, run it through a cloth, and make use 
 of it for rice or vermicelli soup, and sauces. 
 
 Jelly Stock 
 
 Is prepared from calves’ feet alone, or shanks of mutton, 
 the qmantity of water to be allowed is three pints to each foot, 
 reckoning six mutton shanks as equal to one calf’s foot: let 
 them boil gently four hours, then strain off the liquor; when 
 cold remove all the fat from the top and all sediment from the 
 bottom; and again set on the liquor and feet together with 
 an onion or any other flavour that may be approved, and let it 
 boil till it has acquired sufficient strength and consistency for 
 the purpose desired. 
 
 Rich gravy Stock. 
 
 ~”ake a slice of bacon or lean ham, and put it into the stew- 
 
SIMPLE BROTHS, &C. 
 
 2 9 *> 
 
 pan ; take next a pound of beef, cut thin, lay it on the bacon, 
 to which add the slice of a large piece of carrot, an onion 
 sliced, a crust of bread, some sweet herbs, a little mace, cloves, 
 nutmeg, whole pepper, and an anchovy; cover the whole, set 
 it on a slow fire for five or six minutes, and pour in a quart 
 of brown stock; cover the whole up close again, and let it 
 boil softly till reduced one half. This will be a rich high 
 brown gravy, useful for various kinds of soups and made- 
 dishes. 
 
 Portable Soup. 
 
 Boil one or two knuckles of veal, one or two shins of beef, 
 and three pounds of beef, in as much water only as will cover 
 them. Take the marrow out of the bones: put any sort of 
 spice you like, and three large onions. When the meat is 
 done to rags, strain it off, and put. it into a very cold place. 
 When cold, take off the cake of fat, (which will make crusts 
 for common pies;) put the soup into a double-bottomed tin 
 saucepan, and set it on a pretty quick fire, but don’t let it 
 burn. It must boil fast and uncovered, and be stirred con¬ 
 stantly for eight hours. Put it into a pan, and let it stand 
 
 in a cold place a day; then pour it into a round soup china- 
 dish, and set the dish into a stew-pan of boiling water on a 
 stove, and let it boil and be now and then stirred till the soup 
 is thick and ropy ; then it is enough. Pour it into the little 
 round part at the bottom of cups or basins, turned upside 
 down, to form cakes; and when cold, turn them out on flannel 
 to dry. Keep them in tin canisters. When they are to be 
 used, melt them in boiling water; and if you wish the flavour 
 of herbs, or any thing else, boil it first, strain off the watec 
 and melt the soup in it. 
 
 This is very convenient in the country, or at sea, where 
 fresh meat is not always at hand; as by this means a basin of 
 soup may be made in five minutes. 
 
 Another way. Break the bones of a leg of beef of ten 
 pounds weight, and as fresh killed as possible. Put the 
 pieces into a soup pot; cover them with cold water, and set it 
 on the fire to heat gradually till it comes nearly to a boil, 
 wnich will be in about an hour; then skim it carefully, as long 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 300 
 
 as any scum rises, afterwards pour in a little cold water to 
 throw up the remaining scum, let it come to a boil again, and 
 renew the shimming. When no more scum comes up, and 
 the broth appears clear, let it boil for eight or ten hours, and 
 then strain it through a hair sieve into a brown stone pan; 
 set the broth where it will cool quickly; put the meat into a 
 sieve, and let it drain. Next day remove every particle of 
 fat from the top of the broth, and pass it through a tammis 
 or fine sieve, gently, into a stew-pan, taking care to prevent 
 any of the settlings at the bottom from escaping; add a 
 quarter of an ounce of whole black pepper to the liquor, let it 
 boil briskly, with the pan uncovered; and if any scum rises, 
 take it off; when it begins to thicken, and is reduced to 
 about a quart, put it into a smaller stew-pan; set it over a 
 gentle fire, till it comes to the consistence of a thick syrup; 
 but great care must be taken that it does not burn. Take a 
 little of it out in a spoon, and let it cool; if it settles into a 
 strong jelly, it is done enough, if not, boil it till it does; then 
 have at hand some little pots, about an inch and a half deep, 
 taking care that they are quite dry, and pour the soup into 
 them. It will keep thus six months, but if you wish to pre¬ 
 serve it longer, put it into such bladders as are used for 
 German sausages ; or it may be made into cakes by placing 
 pieces of half an ounce or more in small saucers, frequently 
 turning them till they are thoroughly dried, which will take a 
 week or ten days. When they are well hardened, and kept 
 in a dry place, they may be preserved for several years in any 
 climate. If, after lying to dry several days, the soup does 
 not become as hard as you could wish, put it into a stew-pan 
 till it is evaporated to a proper consistence; or you may set 
 the pots in a cool oven, or in a cheese-toaster at some dis¬ 
 tance from the fire. This soup is a valuable article in house¬ 
 keeping, especially in small families, as it saves much time, 
 trouble, and expense. 
 
 Another way. Take a leg of beef, a knuckle of veal, and 
 the shank of a bacon ham; let them be vrell broken; cut off 
 the meat, and lay them at the bottom of a large pot, which 
 lias been first rubbed with some of the marrow; let the whole 
 remain over a slow fire about ? quarter of an hour, turning 
 
SIMPLE BROTHS, &C. 
 
 301 
 
 the meat carefully till it be browned* but not burnt; fill uj 
 the pot with boiling water, and letsimmer all night, skim¬ 
 ming it a little before it comes to a boil. The next morning 
 strain the liquor off, and after remtving all the fat, return it 
 to the pan, taking care to keep back the settlings; boil it 
 slowly, until it has acquired a gelatinous consistence, but b^. 
 careful all the while to take off the scum as it rises. Seaso* 
 with white and cayenne pepper and salt: then have ready 
 some little saucers, fill them better than half full, and set them 
 by till the next morning; turn out the contents on clean 
 paper, and do so often till they are quite dry, when they may 
 be hung up in paper bags for use. 
 
 One of these cakes dissolved in hot water will make a good 
 basin of soup at any time, and it will also answer exceedingly 
 well for gravies and sauces, on an emergency. 
 
 Fish Stock, the basis of Fish Soups ; either white or brown. 
 
 Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and two 
 pounds of eels. Clean them well, and cut them into pieces; 
 cover them with water; and season them with mace, pepper, 
 salt, an onion stuck with cloves, a head of celery, two parsley 
 roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer an hour 
 and a half closely covered, and then strain it off’ for use. If 
 for brown soup, first fry the fish brown in butter, and then do 
 as above. It will not keep more than two or three days 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS, WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 Mutton Froth. 
 
 Take two pounds of a scrag of mutton, and put it into a 
 stew-pan, covering it with cold water, which, when it has be¬ 
 come milk-warm, must be poured off and skimmed; then put 
 in again, with four or five pints additional, a tea-spoonful of 
 salt, a table-spoonful of grits, and an onion ; set it over a 
 blow fire, and when the scum is all tsken off, put in two or 
 
302 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 three turnips; then let the whole simmer slowly two hourr, 
 and strain the liquor through a sieve. If it is to be thicken 
 ed, add some oatmeal, rice, and Scotch or pearl barley. 
 
 Meat Soup. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal, a scrag end of a neck of mutton, 
 and a piece of coarse beef, boil all these to rags in water sea¬ 
 soned with salt, whole pepper, and an onion; when all the good¬ 
 ness is boiled out of the meat, strain the liquor and set it 
 over a stove in a stew-pan with cloves, mace, and a little 
 lemon-peel; when it has boiled a little, putin a pint of strong 
 claret, fry a piece of lean beef, squeeze out the gravy into the 
 stew-pan, and add three or four anchovies • boil ox-palates 
 very tender, then cut them into dice, add also veal, sweet¬ 
 breads, spinach, endive, lettuce, and what other herbs you 
 fancy; then make thin toasts of French bread, lay the sweet¬ 
 breads and ox-palates over the toasts, lay a fowl boiled with 
 the breast stuffed with forcemeat in the middle of the dish ; 
 pour the soup over all, and serve it up. 
 
 Gravy Soup. 
 
 Having prepared good brown stock from leg or shin of 
 beef, or mixture of beef and veal, properly seasoned, add to it 
 when boiling, carrots, turnips, and celery cut small, and sim¬ 
 mer till tender; some people like only the flavour, others the 
 substance of the vegetables. Boil vermicelli a quarter of an 
 hour, and just before serving add a large spoonful of soy and 
 one of mushroom catsup. A French roll should be put into the 
 soup a few minutes till plump and moist through, and served 
 in the tureen. 
 
 Game Soup. 
 
 A very good soup may be made in the season by taking 
 all the breasts of any cold birds, which have been left after 
 dinner the preceding day. First pound the meat in a marble 
 mortar; then break the legs and other bones in pieces, and 
 boil them in some broth for an hour; do the same with six 
 turnips, mash them, and strain them through a tammis, with 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 303 
 
 the meat that has been pounded. Strain off the broth in the 
 same manner, then put it into the soup kettle near the hie, 
 but do not let it boil: and when ready have six yelks of egos, 
 mixeckwith half a pint of cream ; strain this through a sieve, 
 put the soup on the fire, and as it is about to boil, add thereto 
 the prepared eggs and cream, stirring the same well with » 
 wooden spoon. Be careful not to let it boil, otherwise it 
 will curdle. 
 
 Vegetable Soup. 
 
 Pare and slice five or six cucumbers; and add to these the 
 inside of as many cos-lettuces, a sprig or two of mint, two or 
 three onions, some pepper and salt, a pint and a half of young 
 peas, and a little parsley. Put these, with half a pound of 
 fresh butter, into a saucepan, to stew in their own liquor, 
 near a gentle fire, half an hour : then pour two quarts of 
 boiling water to the vegetables, and stew them two hours; rub 
 down a little flour into a teacup-ful of water, boil it with the 
 rest fifteen or twenty minutes, and serve it. 
 
 Another way. Peel and slice six large onions, six pota¬ 
 toes, six carrots, and four turnips; fry them in half a pound 
 of butter, and pour on them four quarts of boiling water. 
 Toast a crust of bread as brown and hard as possible, but do 
 not burn it; put that, some celery, sweet herbs, white pepper, 
 and salt to the above; stew it all gently four hours, then 
 strain it through a coarse cloth; have ready sliced carrot, 
 celery, and a little turnip, and add to your liking; and stew 
 them tender in the soup. If approved, you may add an an¬ 
 chovy, and a spoonful of catsup. 
 
 Carrot Soup. 
 
 Put some beef bones, with four quarts of the liquor in which 
 a leg of mutton, or beef has been boiled, two large onions, a 
 turnip, pepper, and salt, into a saucepan, and stew for three 
 hours. Have ready large carrots scraped and cut thin; 
 strain the soup on them, and stew thsm till soft enough to 
 pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth ; then, boil the pulp 
 with the soup, which is to be as thick as pease-soup. Use 
 two wooden spoons to rub the carrots through. Make the 
 
304 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 soHp the day before it is to be used. Add cayenne. Pulp 
 only the red part of the carrot, and not the yellow. 
 
 Another way. Prepare fifteen or twenty carrots, cut them 
 in slices, put them into a stew-pan, with three quarters of a 
 pound of good butter, upon a quick fire, and stir them till 
 they are browned, then add some good soup; when enough, 
 mb it through a search, and finish it as directed for green 
 pease-soup and lentils, p. 305.; take ofi’the fat, and let it simmer 
 a long time, and serve it in the same manner as the pease-soup. 
 
 Onion Soup. 
 
 Into the water that has boiled a leg or neck of mutton, 
 put carrots, turnips, and (if you have one) a shank bone, and 
 simmer two hours. Strain it on six onions, first sliced and 
 fried of a light brown; simmer three hours, skim it carefully 
 and serve. Put into it a little roll, or fried bread. 
 
 Spinach Soup. 
 
 Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two onions, a 
 head of celery, two carrots, and a little thyme and parsley. 
 Put all into a stew-pot, with a bit of butter the size of a 
 walnut, and a pint of broth, or the water in which meat has 
 been boiled; stew till the vegetables are quite tender; work 
 them through a coarse cloth or a sieve with a spoon; then to 
 the pulp of the vegetables and liquor, put a quart of fresh 
 water, pepper, and salt, and boil all together. Have ready 
 some suet dumplings, the size of a walnut; and before you 
 put the soup into the tureen, put them into it. The suet 
 must not be shred too fine; and take care that it is quite 
 fresh. 
 
 Green Peas Soup. 
 
 In shelling the peas, divide the old from the young : put 
 the old ones, with an ounce of butter, a pint of water, the 
 outside leaves of a lettuce or two, two onions, pepper and 
 salt, to stew till you can pulp the peas; and when you have 
 done so, put to the liquor that stewed them some more water, 
 the hearts and tender stalks of the lettuces, the young peas, a 
 handful of spinach cut small, and salt and pepper to relish 
 properly, and stew till quite soft. If the soup is too thin, or 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS WITH VEGETABLES. 305 
 
 not rich enough, either of these faults may be removed by 
 adding an ounce or two of butter, mixed with a spoonful 01 
 rice or wheat flour, and boiled with it half an hour. Before 
 serving, boil some green mint shred fine in the soup. 
 
 When there is plenty of vegetables, no meat is necessary, 
 but if meat be preferred, a pig’s foot or ham bone, &c. may 
 be boiled with the old peas, which is called the stock. More 
 butter than is mentioned above may be used with advantage, 
 if the soup is required to be very rich. 
 
 When peas first come in, or are very young, the stock 
 may be made of the shells washed, and boiled till they will 
 pulp with the above ; more thickening will then be wanted. 
 
 Another way.—Take a sufficient quantity of peas, put 
 them into a pot with onions, carrots, a bunch of leeks, and 
 celery, with a bone, or some slices of ham or bacon; toss 
 them in butter, with a handful of parsley and small onions; 
 wet them with good soup: when they are soaked enough, 
 drain, and beat them in a mortar, put them through a search, 
 with the juice that was drained out of them ; put it into a 
 saucepan, and let it simmer four or five hours; stir it often, 
 that it may not stick; skim before stirring it; when it is done, 
 serve it over rice, vermicelli, or fried bread, which must be 
 added at the moment of serving. 
 
 Lentil Soup. 
 
 Proceed in the same manner as is directed for the green 
 pease-soup, and the same also for the potage ; take care if they 
 are the lentilles a la reinne to leave it longer on the fire, that 
 the soup may have as fine a red as possible, on which de¬ 
 pends the beauty and goodness of the potage. 
 
 Lettuce Soup. 
 
 Take twelve or fifteen lettuces, clean and pick them, keep¬ 
 ing them entire, and wash them through several waters, 
 taking care that no worms remain; boil them and throw them 
 into fresh water; take them out, pressing the water from 
 them, tie two or three together, cover a stew-pan with slices 
 of bacon, arrange them upon it, put in two or three slices of 
 ham, a carrot, an onion, a bunch of parsley in which is a clove, 
 c 13 2 r 
 
306 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY 
 
 «id half a hay leaf; wet the lettuce with the top of the 
 broth or stock; season with salt and pepper; when ready 
 to serve, drain the lettuces and press them lightly, that the 
 fat may come out; and according to their size they may be 
 left whole or cut in two, and put into the soup. 
 
 Chesnut Soup. 
 
 Take boiled chesnuts, skin and pick out all the bad ones ; 
 put them in a frying-pan, with a little bit of butter, and toss 
 them till the inner scurf comes easily off; when it is rubbed 
 off, put them in a pot with a little stock or jelly, and let 
 them cook; drain, and pound them in a mortar, put them 
 through a search, wetting them with the stock in which they 
 were cooked; when they are thus prepared, put them in a 
 stew-pan with two spoonfuls of stock; mix it well together; 
 leave it to simmer three or four hours; take oft the fat and 
 add a little sugar; season it' properly, and serve it with bread 
 fried in butter, or a mittonage. 
 
 Cabbage Soup. 
 
 Take the cabbages that will be necessary, cut them in 
 quarters, boil them in a great quantity of water, after 
 which throw them into fresh water, take out the stalks, tie 
 them, and put them as directed for lettuce soup into a stew- 
 pan with a little bacon; nourish and season them still more, 
 and serve them in every way as directed for lettuce soup 
 They require more boiling. 
 
 Haricot or Conde Soup.* 
 
 Takd the necessary quantity of red haricots, put them into 
 a pot with water or stock, and a bit of bacon, three carrots, 
 three onions, one of them stuck with two cloves, a bunch of 
 leeks and celery; let all cook well together, take out the 
 vegetables, rub them through a search, adding the soup in 
 which they were cooked, put it again on the fire if it is for a 
 soup maigre , use butter instead of bacon, and to finish it in 
 
 • Haricot?, or colly beans, are what we call French beans, or kidney- 
 beans, full grown and slielied; they are sometimes used dry m the 
 manner as old peas. 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 307 
 
 either way a bit of butter must be added; fry some bread cut 
 in dice, and when ready to serve, put it in the soup. 
 
 A Flemish Soup. 
 
 Slice six onions, cut six heads of celery into small pieces, 
 and slice twelve potatoes; put one quarter of a pound of but¬ 
 ter into a stew-pan, with half a pint of water; then set it over 
 the fire to simmer for half an hour; after which, fill up the 
 stew-pan with some of your best stock; let the whole boil 
 until the vegetables are dissolved, then rub it through a tarn- 
 mis, and add to it a pint of boiled cream. 
 
 Pease Soup. 
 
 The best beginning for this very useful article is the liquor 
 in which a knuckle of veal, or leg of mutton or pork has been 
 boiled, or both in succession. The liquor in which the hocks, 
 feet, or cheek of a bacon hog have been boiled, is very much 
 liked by many people for the agreeable burnt flavour which it 
 gives to the soup. Before proceeding with the soup, the liquor 
 should be suffered to become cold, and cleared of all fat and se¬ 
 diment. If the articles boiled in it were salted, the liquor will 
 perhaps be too salt, and water must be added. Boil down in 
 this the bones of roast beef, veal, or any other that may be in 
 the house, or a bit of neck or shin of beef. If the soup is to 
 be strained, the peas may be added as soon as this liquor boils, 
 in the proportion of a quart of split peas, or two quarts of 
 whole peas, to a gallon of liquor; but if the peas are to be 
 eaten, the bones, &c. must be previously boiled down, and 
 the liquor strained olf, and made to boil up again, before the peas 
 are added. In the foimer case simmer the whole until the 
 goodness is extracted from the bones, &c. and the peas will 
 pulp through a colander; having done this add carrots, 
 turnips, leeks or onions, celery, or such of them, and in such 
 proportions as may be approved, cut in pieces, and let them 
 stew till all is tender and well united, which will require 
 about an hour; a few minutes before serving, a handful of 
 parsley nicely picked or shred may be thrown in, and a little 
 pepper and salt if required, or the pepper and salt may be put 
 in the tureen with fried or toasted bread eut in small squares, 
 
808 
 
 COMPOUND COOKE IlY. 
 
 and dried mint rubbed to a fine powder. Some people 
 choose only the flavour of the vegetables without the sub¬ 
 stance; in this case the bones, (or meat) peas, and herbs, may 
 all be set on together, and stew till perfectly incorporated and 
 the peas reduced to a pulp; then strain through a colander, 
 season and serve. 
 
 Soup a-Ia-sap. 
 
 Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, a pound of beef 
 sliced thin, a pint of grey peas, an onion, and three ounces 
 of rice, in six pints of water, to five ; strain it through a 
 colander; then pulp the peas to it, and turn it into a sauce¬ 
 pan again with two heads of celery sliced. Stew it till ten¬ 
 der, and add pepper and salt; and when you serve, add also 
 fried bread. 
 
 Spring Vegetable Soup. 
 
 To three quarts of good gravy stock, either brown or white, 
 add one lettuce, chervil, sprue grass, spring onions, sorrel, 
 of each a small handful cut small, blanched and boiled in the 
 soup a quarter of an hour. Season with salt and a small 
 lump of sugar, and serve with fried or toasted bread. 
 
 Soup Cressy. 
 
 Take two carrots, two turnips, three onions, one parsnip, 
 and three heads of celery cut in slices; put them to stew with 
 a quarter of a pound of butter, a small bunch of parsley, and 
 a pint of brown gravy; when stewed sufficiently, rub through 
 a tammy sieve, add two quarts more gravy to it, and season 
 with salt and a small piece of sugar. 
 
 Tomato Soup. 
 
 Cut the stalks of two quarts of quite ripe tomatos; put 
 them in a stew-pan with three onions sliced, one carrot, one 
 head of celery, half a pound of butter, and half a pint of good 
 gravy; let it stew till tender, rub it through a tammy, and 
 add three pints more good gravy, and season with salt and 
 cayenne pepper. 
 
 N. B. A spoonful of beet-root juice may be added if not 
 red enough. 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS WITH VEGETABLES. 
 
 3 GO 
 
 iSoup Maigre. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of butter, burn it in a stew-pan 
 till it is yellow; then put two sliced carrots, two turnips, two 
 onions, and one cabbage, and fry them in the butter well; put 
 to it three quarts of boiling water, and three or four cloves 
 Let it boil three quarters of an hour, then strain it off; take 
 one sliced carrot, one head of endive, one head of celery, a 
 handful of spinach and sorrel, and one lettuce, and boil them 
 in the soup half an hour over a slow fre. If you wish to 
 thicken it, add butter and flour to it, and season with salt, to 
 palate. 
 
 Another way.—Take twelve carrots, the same of turnips 
 and onions, and a bunch of leeks, two parsnips, four heads of 
 celery, and a cabbage cut in four; blanch the whole, refresh 
 them in cold water; tie the cabbage; put the whole in a pot, 
 and moisten with thin pease-soup; add some parsley roots, a 
 little mace, ginger, two cloves, and a clove of garlic, wrapt in 
 a cloth ; let all boil sufficiently; to give it a good colour, put 
 into a stew-pan a bit of butter with two or three carrots, the 
 same quantity of turnips and onions cut in slices, and a head 
 of celery; brown these roots well, and moisten with a little 
 soup of peas, and let it fall into a glaze; when near sticking, 
 moisten it anew, to detach it; pour it into the soup and let it 
 simmer five or six hours constantly; pass it through a cloth. 
 
 Another way.—Melt half a pound of butter into a stew- 
 pan, shake it round, and throw in six middling onions sliced. 
 Shake the pan well for two or three minutes; then put to it 
 five heads of celery, two handfuls of spinach, two cabbage 
 lettuces cut small, and some parsley. Shake the pan well 
 for ten minutes ; then put in two quarts of water, some crusts 
 of bread, a tea-spoonful of beaten pepper, three or four blades 
 of mace; and if you have any white beet leaves, add a large 
 handful of them cut small. Boil gently an hour. Just 
 before serving, beat in two yelks of eggs and a large spoon¬ 
 ful of vinegar. 
 
 Another way.—Flour and fry a quart of green peas, four 
 onions sliced, the coarse stalks of celery, a carrot, a turnip, 
 and a parsnip, then pour on them three quarts of water. Let 
 
310 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 it simmer till the whole will pulp through a sieve. Then 
 boil in it the best of the celery cut thin. 
 
 Another way.—Cover the bottom of a stew-pan with but¬ 
 ter ; lay over onions cut in two, and roots in slices; sweat 
 them over a moderate fire for three quarters of an hour, then 
 put them on a stronger fire, and let them fall into glaze until 
 they are of a deep colour; moisten with broth of vegetables; 
 detach it carefully; add some stalks or trimmings of mush¬ 
 rooms, half a clove of garlic, sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, two 
 cloves and salt; let it cook three quarters of an hour; pass 
 it through a cloth, when it is ready for sauce, and may be 
 added to souo as required. 
 
 Italian Soup. 
 
 Take carrots, turnips, onions, celery, parsnips, lettuces, 
 and sorrel, in equal quantities; boil them in salt and water, 
 and then put them into fresh water; cut the roots in slices of 
 an equal length, then cut them still finer; cut the sorrel, let¬ 
 tuce, and celery in the same manner; wash the whole in a 
 quantity of Water; drain them; put a quarter of a pound of 
 butter into a stew-pan with the vegetables; put them over a 
 furnace till they have taken a slight colour; wet them with a 
 ladle-ful of stock; when they are half done put in the sorrel; 
 let them simmer till enough; skim; have ready at the time 
 of serving a mittonage, pour it over, mix it lightly, and serve. 
 
 A Mittonage or Crust Soup is prepared in the following 
 
 manner. 
 
 Take a household loaf and rasp it lightly, cut out the 
 crumb without breaking it, which will answer for frying to 
 garnish spinage dishes or soups, or for a charlotte or a 
 panade; round the crusts handsomely, and let them simmer 
 a few minutes; before serving, put any vegetables on them, 
 and pour over some gravy stock; serve it as hot as possible. 
 
 Grilled Crusts to he served up with Soups. 
 
 Cut bread in slices, put them in a deep silver dish, we< 
 them with good stock or soup, and let them simmer; when it 
 is reduced, put red cinders into the furnace to make it crisp ; 
 
FISII SOUPS. 
 
 311 
 
 cut one or two household loaves in two, take out the crumb, 
 put the crusts upon a gridiron, and dry them over hot cinders; 
 when they are sufficiently dried, wet the inside with the fat 
 of the soup, which is generally called top-pot, and shake a 
 little fine salt over; drain them and put them on the gridiron 
 without covering them, that they may not soften, basting them 
 from time to time with the top of the soup, till they are per¬ 
 fectly done; take off the fat, and send in separately a tureen 
 of any kind of soup. 
 
 Brunoise Soup. 
 
 Cut into small dice carrots, turnips, parsnips, and ceiery, 
 take the top of the pot, or clarified butter; heat it, and throw 
 in the vegetables, let them brown, drain, and wet them with 
 any soup ; cook it as directed for the Italian, skim, and cover 
 the mittonage. If it is served with rice, care must be taken 
 that the dice of the vegetables are not larger than the rice 
 when it is swelled, and mix all well together. 
 
 Spinach-juice for greening Soups, Sauces , Sfc. 
 
 Pound some spinach in a mortar, squeeze it through a 
 tammy or sieve; put the juice in a stew-pan over the fire till 
 it curdles, pour off the water through a fine lawn sieve, and 
 rub the green residue through it, with a little broth. 
 
 FISH SOUPS. 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Have two quarts of a good strong clear stock, whether of fish 
 or meat. Add to it the hard boiled yelks of six eggs, and 
 the hard part of a quart of fresh juicy oysters, previously well 
 pounded in a mortar. Simmer for half an hour, and strain 
 it into a fresh stew-pan, in which have the oysters cleared of 
 the beards, and very nicely washed from shells and sand. 
 Season with mace and cayenne, and let the oysters simmer 
 
 I 
 
ftl 2 
 
 COUPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 for eight minutes, when the yelks of three egg s well beaten may 
 be stirred into a little of the soup, and gradually mixed with 
 the whole quantity, drawing aside the stew-pan, and con¬ 
 stantly stirring lest they curdle. When smooth and thick, 
 serve in a tureen, and still stir the soup for a minute to pre¬ 
 vent curdling. Any other flavour that is relished may be 
 given to the luscious soup. 
 
 Another way.— Prepare a good gravy of skate and eels, or 
 any other fish, putting a pound of each to one quart of water, 
 and stewing it down to half the quantity, after which it may 
 be strained off. Then take a quarter of a peck of oysters, 
 trim oif the beards, and pound the horny part in a marble 
 mortar, with twelve yelks of eggs boiled hard, moistening 
 them in the doing with some of the gravy. Set as much of 
 the stock or gravy as will be wanted, with the soft part of the 
 oysters in it, over the fire with a blade of mace. When it 
 boils, stir in the pounded ingredients, let the whole boil till it 
 is of a moderate thickness, season it with pepper and salt, and 
 serve it up. 
 
 Another way.—Prepare a gravy with perch, flounders, or 
 small cod, and an eel; cut the fish in pieces, and put them 
 into a stew-pan, with the water, a parsley root, two onions, a 
 root or two of celery, some sweet herbs, a little mace, cloves, 
 pepper, and salt. Stew the whole about two hours, then 
 strain off the gravy, and put into a saucepan. Take a good 
 quantity of oysters, first bearding them, then beat them in a 
 marble mortar, with the yelks of eight eggs boiled hard. 
 Add all these to the gravy when it boils, with some pepper, 
 salt, and grated nutmeg. When sufficiently thick, take it 
 off, and serve it up. Veal gravy may be used for this soup 
 instead of fish stock. 
 
 Oystermouth Soup. 
 
 Put into some good mutton broth, two large onions, three 
 blades of mace, and some black pepper; when strained, pour 
 it on a hundred and a half of oysters bearded, and a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour. Simmer gently for a quarter of an 
 hour, and it will be done. 
 
FISH SOUPS. 
 
 313 
 
 Lobster Soup. 
 
 Boil three lively young hen lobster;, and when they are 
 cold, split the tails, take out the fish, break the claws, and 
 cut the meat into morsels; take oat the coral, and soft part 
 of the body; bruise part of the former in a mortar, pick out 
 the fleshy part from the chines, beat part of it with the coral, 
 and with it make forcemeat balls, flavoured with mace and 
 nutmeg, adding thereto some grated lemon pee?, anchovy, or 
 cayenne pepper; all which must be pounded with the yelk of 
 an egg. Bruise the small legs and chine, and put them into 
 three quarts of veal broth, which must boil twenty minutes; 
 then strain it; and to thicken it, take the live spawn, and 
 bruise it in a mortar, with some butter and flour, rub it 
 through a sieve, and add it to the soup with the meat, and 
 the remaining coral; let the whole simmer gently ten minutes, 
 but do not let it boil, or its fine red colour will be lost. When 
 turned into the tureen, add the juice of a lemon, and some 
 essence of anchovy. 
 
 Another way.—Take out the meat from the claws, bodies, 
 and tails of six small lobsters; remove the brown fur and bag 
 in the head ; beat the fins, chine, and small claws in a mortar; 
 boil it gently in two quarts of water, with the crumb of a 
 French roll, some white pepper, salt, two anchovies, a large 
 onion, some sweet herbs, and a little piece of lemon peel 
 grated, till the goodness of the whole is extracted. Then 
 strain it off; beat the spawn in a mortar, with a little butter, 
 a quarter of a nutmeg, and a tea-spoonful of flour; to which 
 add a quart of cream. Cut the tails in pieces, and boil them 
 with the cream and soup. Serve it up with forcemeat balls 
 made of the residue of the lobsters, mace, pepper, salt, some 
 crumbs of bread, and one or two eggs: the balls should be 
 made up with flour, and heated in the soup. 
 
 Crayfish, or Prawn Soup. 
 
 Take flounders, eels, gudgeons, or any small fish, and set 
 them on to boil in cold water; when it is near upon boiling, 
 skim it, and to three quarts of water put two onions, as many 
 carrots cut in pieces, some parsley, and twelve berries cf 
 a 14 2 s 
 
314 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 black and Jamaica pepper. Take off the small claws and 
 shells of the tails of about one hundred crayfish, pound them 
 nne, and boil them with the broth about an hour; strain the 
 whole off, and add some crusts of bread to thicken it; then 
 take the spawn of a lobster, pound it in i mortar, and put it 
 to the soup; let it simmer gently two minutes; put in the 
 crayfish to get hot, and the soup may be served up. 
 
 Another way.—Boil in as much water as will cover them, 
 six whitings, and a large eel, to which may be added half of 
 a thornback, all well cleaned; skim the liquor frequently, 
 and when clear, put in some whole pepper, mace, ginger, 
 parsley, an onion, a little thyme, and three cloves. Boil the 
 whole to a mash. Pick about fifty crayfish, or, instead of 
 them, one hundred prawns; boil them with a little water, 
 vinegar, salt, and herbs; and on taking them out, pound the 
 shells with a small roll; then pour the liquor over the shells 
 in a sieve; adding the other soup clear from the sediment. 
 Chop a lobster in pieces, and add this to the rest, with one 
 quart of good beef gravy; and also the tails of the crayfish 
 or prawns, and some flour and butter. Season to the taste, 
 and serve it up. 
 
 Eel Soup . 
 
 To two quarts of water, put three pounds of small eels, a 
 crust of bread, three blades of mace, some whole pepper, one 
 onion, a piece of carrot, and some sweet herbs; cover the 
 whole close, and stew it till the fish is broken, and then strain 
 it off. Toast some bread, cut it into small squares, and pour 
 the soup on it in a boiling state. A quarter of a pint of rich 
 cream may be added, with a tea-spoonful of flour rubbed 
 smooth in it. 
 
 Another way.—Put two ounces of butter into a stewpan , 
 and when it is melted, add too middling-sized onions, cut in 
 half; stir them till they are lightly browned; cut in pieces 
 three pounds of unskinned eels, put them into the pan, and 
 shake them over the fire for five minutes; then pour in three 
 quarts of boiling water, and when it comes to a boil, take oil 
 the scum, and put in a quarter of an ounce of the green leaves 
 of winter savory, as much of lemon thyme, and twice the 
 
FISH SOUPS 
 
 815 
 
 quantity of parsley, two drachms of allspice, and as many of 
 black pepper; cover all close, and let it boil gently for two 
 hours, then strain it ofl^ and skim it very clean. To thicken 
 it, put three ounces of butter into a clean stewpan ; and when 
 it is melted, stir in as much flour as will give it the consist¬ 
 ence of paste, then add the liquor gradually, and let it simmer 
 ten minutes; next pass it through a sieve; put the soup 
 on in a clean stewpan, and add thereto about ten minutes 
 before serving up, some small pieces of eels, soles, plaice, or 
 skate, fried brown. Forcemeat balls may be sent up with 
 the soup. 
 
 Flounder Soup. 
 
 Take twelve middling-sized flounders, clean them well, and 
 boil them in as much water as will fill a tureen of a moderate 
 size; add thereto a whole onion, some thyme, basil, parsley, 
 and horseradish, whole white pepper, and a little salt; boil 
 the whole till dissolved. Cut a small stale loaf into thin 
 slices, and dip them into the yelks of eggs ; put a piece of 
 fresh butter into a stew-pan, and fry the bread on both sides 
 of a pale brown; strain the soup, add it to the bread, and let 
 it boil half an hour; and in the mean time, have ready a 
 stew-pan of boiling dripping, then take six of the smallest 
 flounders, dip them first into the yelks of eggs, and next in 
 bread crumbs; fry them in the dripping till sufficiently done ; 
 lay them on the back of a sieve to drain, a-fter which strain off 
 the soup, and dish it up with the flounders, and some pieces 
 of fried bread. 
 
 Prussian Soup.* 
 
 Take two large leeks, four roots of celery, two carrots, two 
 or three turnips, two onions, one potatoe ; cut them in small 
 pieces and fry them in butter, with half a pound of beef or 
 any other meat cut small. Put all together in a large sauce¬ 
 pan, and keep it stewing for an hour without any water, 
 
 1 hen put two quarts of boiling water, and let it stew again 
 for two hours more. 
 
 * Omitted in page 310, after Soup Maigre. 
 
316 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY, 
 
 MOUTHFUL SOUPS, OR SOUPS A-LA-FOURCHETTE 
 
 Soup and Bouilli. 
 
 Take the leg or shin, or a piece of the middle of a brisket 
 of beef, of about seven or eight pounds weight; lay it on a 
 fish drainer, or, when to be taken up, put a slice under it so 
 that it may be placed on the dish entire; put it into a deep 
 stew-pan, with cold water enough to cover it, and a quart 
 additional; set it on a quick fire, to raise the scum, which 
 must be instantly removed; then put in two carrots, two 
 turnips, two large onions or leeks, two heads of celery, two 
 or three cloves, and a bundle of parsley and sweet herbs; 
 set the pan or pot by the side of the fire to simmer gently, 
 till the meat is tender enough to eat, which will be in about 
 four or five hours. Put a large carrot, a turnip, a large 
 onion, and a head or two of celery whole, into the soup, but 
 take them out again when done enough, and lay them on a 
 dish till they are cold, after which cut them into small square 
 pieces. When the beef is done, take it out, and strain the 
 soup through a sieve into a stew-pan ; remove the fat, and put 
 the vegetables that have been cut into the liquor, the flavour 
 of which may be heightened by a table-spoonful of mushroom 
 catsup. If the soup wants thickening, take four large table¬ 
 spoonfuls of the fat from the top of the pan, and four spoon¬ 
 fuls of flour, mix them together, and stir them well into the 
 liquor, which must simmer again for ten minutes longer ; 
 skim it well, and pass it through a tamis or fine sieve. 
 
 Scotch Broth, 
 
 Cut a neck of mutton into cutlets; put to it three quarts 
 of water, and three ounces of Scotch barley, and let it boil 
 two hours. Then add two turnips, one carrot, one parsnip 
 cut in dice, two large onions, a handful of parsley leaves; let 
 it boil with these three quarters of an hour longer, and season 
 with salt and a small piece of sugar. 
 
MOUTHFUL SOUPS. 
 
 317 
 
 German barley Broth. 
 
 Put on six pounds of thin flank of beef, with three quarts 
 of water, and three ounces of pearl barley. When it boils 
 skim it well; let it boil two hours, then put in two heads of 
 celery, three turnips, one carrot, one parsnip, in small dice, 
 and let it boil three quarters of an hour longer. Thicken it 
 with a spoonful of flour mixed with some of the broth, and 
 boiled a quarter of an hour after the flour is in. Season it 
 with a little salt, and a small piece of sugar. 
 
 N. B. A small piece of sugar means, supposing it to be in 
 powder, a tea-spoonful. 
 
 Scotch barley Broth , with meat. 
 
 Take from three to six pounds of beef or mutton, according 
 to the quantity of broth wanted, put cold water in the pro¬ 
 portion of a quart to the pound, a quarter of a pound of pearl 
 barley, (more or less as may suit the meat and water,) and a 
 spoonful of salt, unless the meat ia alrea ly slightly salted. 
 To this put a large cupful of white peas, or sheeted grey 
 peas, unless in the season when green peas are to be had, a 
 double quantity of which must be put in with the other vege¬ 
 tables. Skim very carefully as long as any scum rises; then 
 draw aside the pot and let the broth boil slowly for an hour, 
 at which time put to it two young carrots and turnips cut in 
 dice, and two or three onions sliced. A quarter of an hour 
 before the broth is ready add a little parsley picked and chop¬ 
 ped,— or the white part of three leeks may be used instead 
 of onions, and a head of celery sliced instead of the parsley 
 seasoning, but celery requires long boiling. For beef broth 
 a small quantity of greens roughly cut, and four or five leeks 
 cut in two inch lengths, are better suited than turnip, carrot, 
 and parsley, which are more adapted to mutton. If there is 
 danger of the meat being overdone before the broth is pro¬ 
 pel ly lithed, it may be taken up, covered for half an hour, 
 and returned into the pot to heat through before it is dished. 
 Garnish with carrot and turnip boiled in the broth, and di¬ 
 vided; or pour over the meat caper sauce, parsley and butter, 
 or a sauce made of pickled cucumbers, or nasturtiums heated 
 
318 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 in melted butter or in a little clear broth, with a tea-spoonful 
 of made mustard and another of vinegar. Minced parsley, 
 parboiled for a minute, may also be strewed over boiled beef, 
 —or a sprinkling of boiled carrots cut in dice. Serve the 
 broth in a tureen, removing any film of fat that may gather 
 upon the surface. 
 
 The pieces of fresh beef best adapted for broth are the 
 shin, the brisket, the flank, and the veiny piece—of mutton, 
 the neck, the shoulder, and the leg. In Scotland broth made 
 of fresh beef would scarcely be tolerated—the meat not at all; 
 and unquestionably the brisket or flank when salted for a 
 week makes excellent broth, while the meat eats much better. 
 An economical way of managing where beef is salted, is to 
 boil a piece of fresh, and a piece of salt meat together, by 
 which method the broth is not grouty nor yet over salt, which 
 it will be when made wholly of salt meat. Turkey beans 
 stripped of their blackening outer husk, are admirably adapted 
 for lithing barley broth. 
 
 Fat Brose. 
 
 Boil an ox-head, or shin of beef, till an almost pure oil 
 floats on the top. Toast some oatmeal before the fire for 
 hours, till it is of a light brown colour and perfectly dry ; put 
 a handful of the meal into a basin with salt, and pouring a 
 ladleful of the fat broth over it, stir it quickly up, so as not 
 to run into a doughy mass, but to form knots. 
 
 Kail-brose is made of broth in which shred greens have 
 
 o 
 
 been boiled. 
 
 Leek Soup , called in Scotland, Cock-a-Leekie. 
 
 Boil from four to six pounds of good shin-beef, well 
 broken, till the liquor is very good. Strain it, and put to it 
 a capon, or large old fowl, and, when it boils, half the quan¬ 
 tity of leeks intended to be used, well cleaned, and cut in 
 inch-length, or longer. Skim this carefully. In half an 
 hour add the remaining part of the leeks, and a seasoning of 
 pepper and salt. The soup must be very thick of leeks, and 
 the first part of them must be boiled down into the soup tiU 
 
MOUTHFUL SOUPS. 
 
 3i9 
 
 it becomes a green lubricous ectnpound. Sometimes the 
 capon is served in the tureen with the cock-a-leekie. 
 
 Observation. — Some people thicken cock-a-lekie with the 
 fine part of oatmeal. Those who dislike so much of the 
 leeks may substitute shred greens for one half of them. 
 
 Hotch-potch. 
 
 Make the stock of sweet fresh mutton. Cut down four 
 pounds of ribs of lamb into small steaks, and put them to the 
 strained stock. Grate two or three large carrots; slice down 
 as many more. Slice down also young turnips, young onions, 
 lettuce, and parsley. Have a full quart of these things when 
 shred, and another of young green peas. Put in the vege¬ 
 tables, withholding half the peas till near the end of the 
 process. Boil well, and skim carefully; add the remaining 
 peas, white pepper, and salt; and, when enough done, serve 
 the steaks in the tureen with the hotch-potch. 
 
 Observations. —The excellence of this favourite dish, de¬ 
 pends mainly on the meat being perfectly fresh, and the 
 vegetables being all young, and full of sweet juices. The 
 sweet white turnip is best for hotch-potch, or the small, 
 round, smooth-grained yellow kind peculiar to Scotland. 
 Mutton makes excellent hotch-potch without any lamb-steaks. 
 Parsley shred, white cabbage, or lettuce, may be added to the 
 other vegetables, or not, at pleasure. 
 
 Winter Hotch-potch. 
 
 This dish may be made of either fresh beef, or of a neck 
 or back-ribs of mutton. Cut four pounds of meat into hand¬ 
 some pieces. Boil and skim this well, and add carrots and 
 turnips sliced, small leeks and parsley cut down, and some 
 German greens finely shred, and put in only a little before 
 the soup is completed. Season with pepper and salt. The 
 quantity of vegetables must be suited to the quantity of meat, 
 so that the soup may have consistence, but r ot be disagiee- 
 ably thick. Serve the meat and soup together 
 
 To make Skink, an old Scotch Soup. 
 
 Take two legs of beef, put them on with two gallons of 
 
320 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 water, let them boil for six hours, taking care to skim the 
 soup well all the time, as the gravy should be very clear and 
 bright; then strain the liquor from the meat, take out the 
 sinewy part from the meat, and lay it aside till your soup 
 is ready to serve up. Cut the sinews about an inch long. 
 Have some vegetables cut, such as carrots, turnips, leeks, 
 onions, celery, lettuce, cabbage shred small, and green peas, 
 when to be had. Blanch the whole in water for ten 
 minutes. Put the whole into the soup, and boil till quite 
 tender. Serve up the sinews in the tureen with the soup. 
 Season the whole with salt and pepper before dishing it. 
 
 Herbs may be used in these soups; and white peas are 
 by many thought an improvement. 
 
 Sheep’s-head Broth. 
 
 Choose a large fat head. When carefully singed by the 
 blacksmith, soak it and the singed trotters for a considerable 
 time in lukewarm water. Take out the glassy part of the 
 eyes, and scrape the head and trotters till perfectly clean and 
 white; then split the head with a cleaver, and take out the 
 brains, &c.; split also the trotters, and take out the tendons. 
 Wash the head and feet once more, and let them blanch till 
 wanted for the pot. 
 
 Take a small cupful of barley, and twice that quantity of 
 white, or old green peas, with a gallon or rather more of 
 water. Put to this the head and from two to three pounds 
 of scrag or trimmings of mutton perfectly sweet; and some 
 salt. Take off the scum very carefully as it rises; and the 
 broth will be as limpid and white as any broth made of beef 
 or mutton. When the head has boiled rather more than an 
 hour, add sliced carrot and turnip, and afterwards some onions 
 and parsley shred. A head or two of celery sliced is admired 
 by some modern gourmands, though we would rather approve 
 of the native flavour of this really excellent soup. The more 
 slowly the head is boiled, the better will both the meat and 
 soup be. From two to three hours boiling, according to the 
 size of the head and the age of the animal, and an hour’s 
 simmering by the side of the fire, will finish the soup. Many 
 prefer the head of a ram to that of a wether, but it requires 
 
MOUTH! UL SOUPS. 
 
 321 
 
 nnvh longer boiling. In either case the trotters require 
 less boiling than the head. Serve with the trotters, and 
 s.ieed carrot round the head. 
 
 Mulligatani or Mullagataivny Soup. 
 
 Take two quarts of good mutton broth; add eight or ten 
 cutlets of mutton to it, and boil them tender: take two cloves 
 of garlic, two tea-spoonfuls of turmeric powder, a table-spoon¬ 
 ful of mustard seed, one dozen grains of black pepper, six 
 cayenne or chillies, six small onions well pounded, and mixed 
 with a teacup-ful of the broth ; strain to the other with the 
 meat; then fry one large onion in slices, with butter, and put 
 to it, and boil it five minutes. Season with salt. 
 
 Another way.— Mullagatawny differs little save in the 
 curry powder, or other seasonings, from the excellent Scotch 
 stewed knuckle of veal. Break and wash a knuckle of good 
 veal, and put it to boil in nearly three quarts of water, with a 
 quarter of an ounce of black and Jamaica pepper-corns. Place 
 wooden or tinned skewers in the bottom of the stew-pan, to 
 prevent the meat from sticking to it. Skim this stock care¬ 
 fully when it comes to boil, and let it simmer an hour and a 
 half before straining it off. Cut three pounds of breast of 
 veal into gobbets, adding the trimmings, bones, and gristles of 
 the breast to the water in which the knuckle is put to boil. 
 Fry the bits of veal and six sliced onions in a deep stew-pan, 
 of a delicate brown. Put the strained stock to them; skim 
 carefully, and when the soup and meat have simmered three 
 quarters of an hour, mix two desert-spoonfuls of curry powder 
 and the same quantity of lightly browned flour to a smooth 
 batter, with salt and cayenne to taste, and add these to the 
 soup, and stew and simmer till the meat is quite tender. This 
 soup may be made of fowls cut in pieces, or of rabbits, but is 
 best when made of well-fed veal. For East Indian palates, 
 eschalots, mace, and ginger, may be employed, but the quan¬ 
 tity must be left to the discretion of the cook. 
 
 Mock-turtle Soup. 
 
 Procure the head of a middle-sized well-fed cow calf, with 
 th c - skin on; scald it, split and take out the brains ; clean 
 
 6 14 2 T 
 
COMPOUNI) COOKf.ltIt 
 
 322 
 
 it well in several waters, to draw out the slime. Piaco h in 
 a stew-pan well covered with cold water; boil it, and skun 
 without intermission while any scum continues to arise. 
 When the head has boiled gently for three quarters of an 
 hour take it out, and as soon as cold enough to cut, carve it 
 into small neat pieces, in the shape of diamonds, dice, tri¬ 
 angles, &c. Peel the tongue, and cut it into cubes of an 
 inch thick. Put the broken bones and trimmings of the 
 head into the stock pot, with a large knuckle of veal well 
 broken, and three or four pounds of a shin of beef well soaked. 
 Let this boil slowly, having carefully skimmed it, for at least 
 four hours, and take care it does not stick to the bottom of 
 the pot; then strain for future use, and lay aside a quart of 
 the stock for gravy. Thus much may be done the evening 
 before the soup is wanted. When the soup is to be made, 
 take off the cake of fat which will have formed on the top, 
 and put the stock, holding back the sediment, into a large 
 stew-pan. If the stock is good it will now be a jelly, or 
 nearly so. When it is again skimmed, put to it a dozen 
 onions sliced and browned in the frying-pan, with half a dozen 
 sprigs of fresh mild sage, also chopped and fried. Thicken 
 the soup with butter kneaded in browned flour, and season 
 highly with ground black and Jamaica pepper, a litttle cayenne, 
 two blades of mace, a shalot, four leaves of fresh basil, and 
 the paring of one large or two small lemons. When the 
 soup is strong and well coloured, strain it through a hair 
 sieve very gently into a fresh stew-pan, and put the hash of 
 the head to it. Add wine when nearly finished, in the pro¬ 
 portion of half a glassful to the quart. [Madeira or Sherry 
 are the wines commonly employed, but Burgundy or Claret 
 may be used if more depth of colour is wanted.] When to 
 be dished, add two dozen of small forcemeat balls, made of 
 veal, or veal kidney, and fried and drained, hard boiled yelks 
 of eggs, or egg balls, and the juice of two lemons squeezed 
 through a strainer. 
 
 A small piece of bacon used to be put into the stock pot, 
 and a faggot of sweet herbs. The imitation of the real tur¬ 
 tle soup was also thought nearer when the soup abounded in 
 pieces of the fat double tripe, grisly bits of veal, or veal sweet'- 
 
MOUTHFUL SOUPS. 
 
 323 
 
 bread par-bdii£<J, or the belly piece of pickled pork, cut in 
 mouthfuls, the soft part of oysters, pickled tongue par-boiled 
 and cut down, the meat of lobsters, &c. These cloying sub¬ 
 stances are now very generally discarded. Simplicity is the 
 taste of the day, though much is left to the discretion of the 
 cook in the making of mock-turtle, and all soups of the com¬ 
 posite order. The quantity made by the above directions will 
 fill two tureens; but part of the stock may be laid aside for 
 gravy or sauces; and if there is too much hash, some of it 
 may be highly seasoned and dressed as a ragout or pie. 
 
 Ox-head, Soup , called Hessian Soup and Ragout. 
 
 Clean, rub with salt, and afterwards soak in salt and luke¬ 
 warm water for four hours, the half of a fat bullock’s head, 
 and the root of a tongue, or a cow-heel. Wash them, and 
 break and put them into a large pot with seven quarts of 
 water and a spoonful of salt. Skim very carefully, and retard 
 the boiling by throwing in a quart of cold water, which will 
 throw up more scum. When the meat is tender, but not 
 overdone, take it out and strain the broth. When cold take 
 olf the cake of fat, and the oil below it, and put to the soup a 
 pound of white or grey shelled peas. When it has boiled 
 an hour add, roughly cut, six or eight potatoes, six carrots, 
 four turnips, half a dozen onions, a bunch of parsley, and a 
 desert spoonful of celery seed tied up in a bit of rag; season 
 with pepper and salt, and boil till the vegetables are tender. 
 This makes a very excellent broth, nutritious and palatable, 
 and the meat may either be served in it, or as a ragout. But 
 a little more trouble fits this dish to appear at any family din¬ 
 ner, and entitles it to the appellation of Hessian soup and 
 ragout. When the peas and vegetables in the soup as above 
 described, are soft enough to pulp, strain it, and rub them 
 through a sieve to the soup, which will now be nearly of the 
 consistence of thin peas-soup. If not thickened enough add 
 rice flour well mixed, or potatoe mucilage, and heat the soup, 
 adding white pepper and cayenne to taste, and a head ol celery 
 sliced. The ragout or hash is made by cutting into mouth¬ 
 fuls the best parts of the head, and root of the tongue, or 
 cow-heel, seasoning high with mixed spices, a little walnut 
 
3‘2t 
 
 COMPOLA'D COOKERY. 
 
 catsup, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard, with a pint and a 
 half of the clear stock of the head saved for this purpose when 
 the soup is strained. 
 
 Ox-cheek Soup. 
 
 After the cheek has been set to soak two hours in cold 
 water, the bones must be broken, and the whole well washed 
 in warm water; then put them into a pot, and cover them 
 with cold water, and as it boils, skim it very clean; next put 
 in a head of celery, two carrots, a turnip, two large onions, 
 twenty-four berries of black pepper, and as many of allspice, 
 with a bundle of sweet herbs ; cover the whole up closely, and 
 set the pot on a slow fire, taking care from time to time to 
 remove the scum; after which, set it on one side to stew 
 gently about three hours; take out the head, lay it on a dish, 
 pour the soup through a fine sieve into an earthen or stone 
 pan, and set both in a coel place till the next day; then cut 
 the meat neatly into very small pieces, and strain off the 
 liquor; two quarts of which, with the meat, must be put into 
 a stew-pan, and simmered gently for half an hour, when it 
 will be ready. If it is to be thickened, which is far from 
 adviseable, put two ounces of butter into a stew-pan, and when 
 it is melted, add as much flour as will dry it up; after these 
 are well mixed and browned pour on the soup, then strain the 
 same through a sieve into a clean pan, and put to it the meat 
 of the cheek; let rt stew half an hour longer, and season the 
 whole with cayenne pepper and salt, to which some add a 
 table-spoonful of brandy. 
 
 Ox Tail Soup. 
 
 Take two tails which have been previously divided at the 
 joints, and lay them to soak in warm water. Next put them 
 into a gallon stew-pan, with eight cloves, two or three onions, 
 half a drachm of allspice, and as much black pepper • cover 
 them with cold water; skim it carefully as the scum rises, 
 then cover the pot closely, and set it on the side of the fire 
 to keep gently simmering, till the meat becomes tender, 
 which will take about two hours ; but observe that it is not 
 done too much. When perfectly tender, take out the meat, 
 
MOUTHFUL SOUPS,. 
 
 325 
 
 and after skimming the broth, strain it through a sieve. It 
 may be thickened in the same way as the ox-cheek soup, or 
 you may put two table-spoonfuls of the fat that has been 
 taken off the broth into a clean stew-pan, with as much flour 
 as will make it into a paste; set it over the fire, and stir the 
 whole well together, then pour in the broth by degrees to 
 mix it with the thickening ; after which it must simmer for 
 half an hour, and when well skimmed and smooth, strain it 
 into a clean stew-pan, with the meat, a table-spoonful of 
 mushroom catsup, and a glass of wine, seasoning the whole 
 with salt. 
 
 Ox-heel Soup. 
 
 Take a heel undressed, or only csalded, and two that have 
 been boiled, as commonly sold at the tripe shops. Cut the 
 meat off these last into small bits, and set it by on a plate; 
 put the trimmings and bones into a stew-pan, with three 
 quarts of water, and the unboiled heel cut into quarters; to 
 which add two onions, and two turnips sliced, a couple of 
 carrots, a couple of shalots cut in two, a bunch of savoury or 
 lemon thyme, and double the quantity of parsley; set this 
 over or by the side of a slow fire, and keep it closely covered, 
 and simmering gently for seven hours, during which, remove 
 the scum as it rises to the surface. Next strain the liquor 
 through a sieve, and put two ounces of butter into a clean 
 stew-pan; when it is melted, stir into it as much flour as will 
 make a stiff paste, adding the soup to it by degrees; give the 
 whole a boil, strain through a sieve, and put in some lemon- 
 peel pared thin, with a couple of bay leaves, and the meat of 
 the boiled heels; after which, let the whole simmer for half 
 an hour longer. To this add the juice of a lemon, a glass 
 of wine, and a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup. This 
 soup may be improved by two sets of the giblets of geese or 
 ducks, or a pound of veal cut into small pieces. 
 
 A good brown Soup. 
 
 Take a large leg of beef, cut it in cross pieces, and boil in 
 four or five quarts of water, until the meat is all in rags and 
 the liquor reduced to about two quarts, which strain off into a 
 
326 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 stew-pan or pot, remove the fat and add a pint of good beef 
 gravy. Thicken it with grated bread, season with salt; add 
 parsley and thyme shred very small and half a pint of force¬ 
 meat balls of the size of a nutmeg. Let it boil till the balls 
 are done. Then pour it into a deep dish or tureen with a 
 boiled fowl in the middle and a penny-loaf cut in small squares 
 and fried brown in butter. 
 
 A Pepper Pot. 
 
 This dish is composed of every sort of shreds and patches. 
 It ought properly to be an Olio, composed of a due admixture 
 of meat, fish, fowl, vegetables and roots. To three quarts of 
 water put a couple of pounds of whatever vegetables are 
 plentiful, (a good proportion being onions,) and a couple of 
 pounds of mutton scrag cut into three or four pieces, or a 
 fowl, or veal, or a piece of lean bacon, and a little rice. Skim 
 it ; and when nearly finished add the meat of a lobster or 
 crab, cut in bits, or the soft part of a few oysters, or hard 
 boiled yelks of eggs. Take off all the fat that rises, and 
 season highly with pepper and cayenne. A few small suet 
 dumplings may be added if approved. 
 
 Irish Steiv. 
 
 Take the loose fat from a neck or loin of mutton, and cut 
 from three to four pounds of it into small well shaped chops. 
 Flatten and season them with salt and mixed spices. Peel 
 six or eight onions; parboil, and skin a quantity of potatoes. 
 Lay some shred suet at the bottom of a stew-pan, and half a 
 t)int of broth, or melt two ounces of butter. Slice in a layer 
 of potatoes, then a layer of chops, then strew in the onions, 
 then again potatoes and chops, &c. and let the top be covered 
 with potatoes. A shank or small bit of ham, or a scrape of 
 smoked tongue, or a little sausage meat, is a great addition to 
 this favourite dish. It must stove very slowly, and the pan 
 must be closely and constantly covered. Hunter’s pie is an¬ 
 other excellent form of Irish stew. It is sometimes made of 
 beef collops instead of mutton chops; and then the potatoes 
 are always mashed. Place the potatoes, meat, and onions in 
 alternate layers in an earthenware pie dish, and bake them 
 
 t 
 
mouthful sours. 
 
 .H27 
 
 the top layer of potatoes may be neatly scored, seolloped on 
 the edges, and glazed with eggs, if approved. 
 
 Knuckle of Veal Soup. 
 
 Take a large knuckle, or if small add a piece of the scrag. 
 Wash it, and break the bones; place skewers in the stew-pan 
 to keep the knuckle from sticking; cover it with water and 
 no more; put in a head of celery, lemon thyme, three onions, 
 a carrot, a turnip, and two dozen black and Jamaica pepper¬ 
 corns, and simmer till the knuckle is tender. Strain the 
 soup. Cut the gristly parts of the knuckle and all that is 
 good into mouthfuls, and put to it a seasoning of white pepper 
 and mace in powder, and rice flour to thicken if it wished. 
 This soup may he made with rice or vermicelli; or the stewed 
 uncut knuckle may be served in the soup. 
 
 Some gourmands admire veal stew soup made of staggering 
 bob,—that is an infant calf, whose hones are still gristle, and 
 his flesh a jelly. The breast, knuckle, and shoulder blade 
 are best for this purpose, and the soup is thickened with yelk 
 °f eggs, and seasoned with mace. 
 
 Giblet Soup. 
 
 Take from two to three pounds of coarse beef, or shanks 
 and scrag of mutton, or knuckle of veal, or a part of each as 
 may be found most convenient; a small faggot of sweet herbs, 
 and a little parsley ; a quarter of an ounce of black or Jamaica 
 pepper-corns, and four quarts of water. When this has sim¬ 
 mered for an hour, put to it two pair of goose giblets, or four 
 pair of duck giblets, scalded and cleaned. When the giblets 
 are delicately tender, but not soft and insipid, take them up 
 and cut them into large mouthfuls. The soup must now bo 
 thickened with butter kneaded in a large spoonful of flour, or 
 with the top fat gradually mixed with flour, and strained into 
 * fresh stew-pan, into which put the giblets. Boil and skim, 
 and season with a large spoonful of mushroom catsup, salt, 
 and a little cayenne. Serve with the cut giblets in the 
 tureen. 
 
 Another way. —Scald and p'ck clean two sets of goose or 
 four of duck giblets, wash them well in warm water, changed 
 
328 
 
 COMPOUND COO ICC It Y. 
 
 Iwo or three times : then cut off the tops of the beaks, split 
 the heads and divide the gizzards and necks into very small 
 pieces; crack the bones of the legs, put them into a stew-pan, 
 covered with cold water, and when they boil, take off the scum, 
 then put in a bundle of sweet herbs, some parsley, twenty 
 berries of allspice, and the same quantity of black pepper; tie 
 all this up in a muslin bag, and set it to stew gently till the 
 gizzards are tender, which will be in about an hour and a half 
 or two hours, according to the size and age of the giblets; 
 take them up with a skimmer, put them into the tureen, and 
 cover it close, till the soup is ready. To thicken this, melt 
 an ounce and a half of butter in a stew-pan, stirring therein 
 as much flour as will make it into a paste; then pour to it 
 gradually a ladleful of the soup, adding the remainder also by 
 degrees, and let it boil about ten minutes, continually stirring 
 it, to prevent its burning; then skim and strain it through a 
 fine sieve into a basin; wash out the stew-pan, and return the 
 soup into it, seasoning the same with a glass of white wine, a 
 table-spoonful of mushroom catsup, and a little salt; let it 
 have one boil, and then put in the giblets, and the soup is 
 ready. The heads of fowls and turkeys will also make a good 
 soup, in a similar way. 
 
 Another way.—Take three or four sets of goose or duck 
 giblets, the fresher the better, set them to stew, with one or 
 two pounds of gravy beef, a scrag of mutton, or the bone of a 
 shank of veal, an ox tail, or some shanks of mutton, with 
 three onions, a bundle of sweet herbs, a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, and a spoonful of salt. Put into a pan five pints of 
 water, and simmer the gizzards, each of which being cut into 
 four pieces, till they are quite tender; skim it well, and add a 
 quarter of a pint of cream, two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom 
 powder, and an ounce of butter mixed with a small spoonful 
 of flour. Let this boil a few minutes, and serve it with the 
 giblets. Instead of the cream, you may put in two glasses 
 of white wine, a large spoonful of catsup, and some cayenne 
 pepper. Add some salt, on serving up the soup in the 
 tureen. 
 
 Another way.—Make a good gravy with beef, mutton, or 
 veal; and turnips, carrots, parsnips, leeks, or onions, and 
 
MOUTHFUL SOUPS. 
 
 629 
 
 sweet herbs, strewed till the gravy is quite extracted from the 
 meat. Strain it off, and to every quart of gravy put a set of 
 goose giblets. Stew these till they are quite tender, and when 
 about half done, put in a small carrot, and a turnip cut square 
 or a quart of young peas, and a lettuce cut small, according to 
 the season. Add cayenne pepper and salt, to the soup, which 
 must be served up with the giblets in it. 
 
 Poacher’s Soup. 
 
 This savoury and highly relishing stew soup may be made 
 of any or every thing known by the name of game. Take 
 from two to four pounds of the trimmings or coarse parts of 
 venison, shin of beef, or shanks or lean scrag of good mutton. 
 Boil this with a couple of carrots and turnips, four onions, a 
 bunch of parsley, and a quarter of an ounce of peppercorns, 
 the larger proportion Jamaica pepper. Strain this stock when 
 it has boiled for three hours. Cut down a black-cock, or wood¬ 
 cock, a pheasant, half a hare, or a rabbit, a brace of partridges 
 or grouse, or one of each, (whichever is obtained most easily,) 
 and season the pieces with mixed spices. They may be floured 
 and browned in the frying-pan ; but as this is a process dictated 
 by the eye as much as the palate, it is not necessary in making 
 this soup. Put the game to the strained stock, with a dozen 
 of small onions, a couple of heads of celery sliced, half a dozen 
 peeled potatoes, and when it boils, a small white cabbage quar¬ 
 tered, black pepper, allspice, and salt to taste. Let the soup 
 simmer till the game is tender, but not overdone; and lest it 
 should, the vegetables may be put in half an hour before the 
 meat. 
 
 This soup may be coloured and flavoured with wine and 
 two spoonfuls of mushroom catsup, or boiled anchovy, and en¬ 
 riched with forcemeat balls. Soups in which catsup is mixed, 
 should not be salted till that ingredient is added, as catsup 
 contains so much salt itself. 
 
 Iiice and Meat Soup. 
 
 Boil from three to four pounds of a good ox-cheek, very 
 well snaked and cleaned, in three quarts of water, with four 
 onions, and a small faggot of pot herbs, Strain it; cut the 
 C 14 2 u 
 
330 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 meat in large pieces, and stew with six ounces of rice, adding 
 pepper and salt. This cheap stew soup may be seasoned with 
 curry powder or mace; or made after a finer fashion with 
 knuckle of veal, or two cow-heels. 
 
 Hare Soup. 
 
 Take a large hare, cut in pieces, and put them into an 
 earthen vessel, with three blades of mace, two large onions, 
 a little salt, a red herring, six large morels, a pint of port wine, 
 and three quarts of water. Bake the whole three hours in a 
 quick oven, and then strain off the liquor into a stew-pan. 
 Previous to this, boil four ounces of French barley, and put it 
 into the liquor; scald the liver, and rub it through a sieve with 
 a wooden spoon; put it into the soup, and set it over the fire. 
 Keep it stirring till it is about to boil, and then take it off 
 immediately. Put some crisped bread into the tureen, and 
 pour the soup into it. 
 
 Another way.—Take an old hare, cut it in pieces, and put 
 thereto one pound and a half of lean beef, two or three shank 
 bones of mutton, a slice of lean bacon or ham, one onion, and 
 a bunch of sweet herbs ; over which pour two quarts of boiling 
 water; cover the jug into which these are put with bladder 
 and paper, and set it in a kettle of water; simmer till the hare 
 is stewed to pieces; strain off the liquor, and give it one boil, 
 with an anchovy cut small; adding a spoonful of soy, a little 
 cayenne, and salt. A few forcemeat balls fried brown, should 
 be served in the tureen. 
 
 Another way.—Wash a large hare, cut it in pieces, laying 
 aside two or three of the choicest parts of the back and the 
 fleshy joint of the legs. Put the remainder into a kettle with 
 a knuckle of veal, a bunch of sweet herbs, some salt, and five 
 quarts of water; stew these for three or four hours, and then 
 strain off the gravy. Put it into a pan, with the pieces of the 
 hare which were left out, and stew gently till they are done. 
 Thicken with flour and butter, and some forcemeat balls, 
 adding, before serving up, half a pint of port or Madeira wine. 
 The pieces of the hare may be fried just brown in butter 
 before they are put into the soup or stew. A large old rab¬ 
 bit may be substituted very well instead of a hare. 
 
MOUTHFfTT SOUPS. 
 
 331 
 
 A Hash , or rich Soup of Calf's Head. 
 
 First boil the head tender and pull out all the bones: then 
 cut the meat in thin slices and put it into a stew-pan or frying 
 pan, with half a pint of good beef gravy, a quarter of a pint of 
 claret, a little catsup, some nutmeg, some salt, half a handful 
 of capers, two anchovies, half a lemon cut in bits, a little vine¬ 
 gar, and some oysters and mushrooms. Then set it over the 
 lire, and when the anchovies are dissolved put in half a pound 
 of butter. W hen it is melted, thicken the sauce with the 
 yelks of two eggs beat with a little vinegar.—Have ready a 
 deep dish, with sippets of white bread, barberries and lemon • 
 pour off the hash, and add to it some fried bacon, forcemeat 
 balls, and if you please, sausages. Put in the middle a roast 
 fowl or four or five veal olives. The brains being parboiled, 
 cut them in round slices, dip them in the yelk of an egg, and 
 fry brown to lay round the dish. 
 
 Another , after the manner of Turtle. 
 
 Take a calf’s head with the skin on; scald off the hair as 
 you would that of a pig. When cleaned, cut the horny part 
 into thin slices, with as little of the lean as possible. Put them, 
 with a few chopped oysters and the brains, into three pints of 
 strong mutton or veal gravy, with a pint of Madeira wine, a 
 large tea spoonfull of cayenne pepper, a large onion chopped 
 small, the peelings of a large lemon shred as fine as possible, 
 a little salt, the juice of two lemons, and some sweet herbs cut 
 small. Stew all these together till the meat is very tender, 
 which will be in about an hour and an half. Then have ready 
 the back shell of a turtle lined with a paste of flour and water, 
 and which has been set in the oven to harden. Into this put 
 the ingredients, and set it in the oven just to brown the top : 
 when that is done, take it out and garnish with the yelks of 
 eggs, boiled hard, and forcemeat balls. 
 
 Cold roast hare, game, or veal, will all of them, if cut down, 
 and slowly stewed for an hour, in broth or boiling water thick¬ 
 ened with brown flour kneaded in butter, and rather highly 
 seasoned with onion, pepper, and cayenne, make a very palatable 
 stew soup. Many prefer this mode of re-dressing cold meat to 
 
332 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 either hashing or fricasseeing. The burnt outsides, skins, and 
 every thing unfit for the tureen should be trimmed away. 
 
 Pigeon Soup. 
 
 Make a clear gravy stock of four pounds of lean beef, or 
 scrag and shanks of mutton, two turnips, two onions, and four 
 quarts of water boiled down to three. Put to this stock the 
 gizzards, crops, and livers of four or five pigeons, which must 
 be neatly trussed as for boiling, seasoned inside with ground 
 white pepper and salt, and flattened on the breast. Dredge 
 them with flour, and brown them nicely in a frying-pan. 
 Thicken the stock with butter kneaded in browned flour; 
 strain and season it with white pepper, salt, and a little mace, 
 and let the pigeons stew in it for twenty-live minutes, taking 
 off the scum as it rises. Throw a few toasted sippets into the 
 tureen before dishing the soup. Soup of black or red game is 
 made exactly as above, but it is the better for a bit of lean 
 bacon in the stock, and more onion or shalot, allspice, and 
 cayenne. 
 
 Friar’s Chicken Soup. 
 
 To two quarts of good brown gravy, cut a fine chicken in 
 joints; after it has been scalded, put it in the soup with a suf¬ 
 ficient seasoning; let it boil in the soup till done, which will be 
 in about half an hour; then have a good handful of parsley 
 chopped and mixed up with six whole eggs; put these into 
 the soup, and let it boil till it curdles; then put it into the 
 tureen all together. 
 
 WHITE SOUPS. EITHER WITH OR WITHOUT MEAT. 
 
 White Soups 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal, cut in pieces, and put about three 
 quarts of water, with a bit of lean ham, two or three onions, 
 a blade of mace, some pepper-corns, a bunch of sweet herbs, 
 
WHITE SOUPS. 
 
 333 
 
 and a little celery : stew it gently for three or four hours, 
 strain it off, and let it stand till cold, when the fat is to be re¬ 
 moved.—Blanch a quarter of a pound of almonds, and pound 
 them in a mortar with a little cream; strain through a sieve, 
 add to the soup, and boil it. Beat the yelks of two or three 
 eggs with a little more cream; put it to the soup and keep 
 stirring it one way, but be careful it does not boil. 
 
 The little additions should be made only just before 
 serving. 
 
 a 
 
 Another way.—Take a scrag of mutton, a knuckle of veal 
 after cutting off as much meat as will make collops, two or 
 three shank-bones of mutton nicely cleaned, and a quarter of a 
 pound of very fine undressed lean gammon of bacon, with a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, a piece of fresh lemon peel, two or three 
 onions, three blades of mace, and a dessert-spoonful of white 
 pepper; boil all in three quarts of water, till the meat falls 
 quite to pieces. Next day take off the fat, clear the jelly 
 from the sediment, and put it into a saucepan of the nicest 
 tin. If macaroni is used, it should be added soon enough to 
 get perfectly tender, after soaking in cold water. Vermicelli 
 may be added after the thickening, as it requires less time to 
 do. Have ready the thickening, which is to be made as 
 follows : 
 
 Blanch a quartei of a pound of sweet almonds, and beat 
 them to a paste in a marble mortar, with a spoonful of water to 
 prevent their oiling; mince a large slice of dressed veal or 
 chicken and beat it with a piece of stale white bread; add all this 
 to a pint of thick cream, a bit of thick lemon-peel, and a blade 
 of mace, in the finest powder. Beil it a few minutes; add to 
 it a pint of soup, and strain and pulp it through a coarse 
 sieve : this thickening is then fit for putting to the rest, which 
 should boil for half an hour afterwards. 
 
 Another way.—Two or three pints of soup may be made 
 of a small knuckle of veal, with seasoning as directed in the 
 last article; and both served together, with the addition of a 
 quarter of a pint of good milk. Two spoonfuls of cream, and 
 a little ground rice, will give it a proper thickness. 
 
 Ano'her way.—Take a knuckle of veal, and break the bone 
 in pieces, sot it oyer the fire with a gallon of water, an old 
 
834 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 fowl, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, two onions, a head of 
 celery, and two blades of mace; let the whole boil till the li¬ 
 quor is reduced to one half; then take out the fowl, and pick 
 all the meat off the breast, beat it in a marble mortar, and rub 
 it through a hair sieve, with a little of the broth. Then take 
 a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds; beat the same with a 
 little cream to keep them from oiling; boil this in the broth, 
 and season it with salt and a little cayenne pepper; let it boil 
 for a quarter of an hour, and then strain it through a doth ; 
 add half a pint of thick cream beaten up with the yelks of 
 three fresh eggs. The soup must be scalding hot when it is 
 added; after which, put in the beshemel, (as the breast of the 
 fowl in its present state is named,) and stir the whole well into 
 the soup with the eggs and cream. If it boils, it will curdle. 
 A little green w r alnut catsup will give it a deeper yellow colour 
 if it is wanted. 
 
 Another way.—Put a scrag or knuckle of veal, some slices 
 of gammon of bacon, onions, and mace, into a small quantity 
 of water; simmer till it becomes very strong; and then cover 
 it with good clear beef broth, that has been made the day be¬ 
 fore, and stewed till the meat is boiled to rags. Add thereto 
 cream, vermicelli, and almonds, with a roll, according to the 
 directions already given. 
 
 Milk Soup. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk, with a little salt, a stick of cinnamon, 
 and a little sugar; lay thin slices of French roll or bread in a 
 dish; pour over a little of the milk to soak them, and keep 
 them hot upon a stove; take care it does not burn. When 
 the soup is ready to serve, beat up the yelks of five or six 
 eggs, and add them to the milk. Stir it over the fire till it 
 thickens ; then take it off lest it should curdle, and put it in 
 the dish upon the bread. 
 
 Milk Soup with Onions. 
 
 lake a dozen of onions, and set them over a stove till they 
 are done, without being coloured. Then boil some milk, add 
 to it the onions, and season it with salt alone. Put some but- 
 
WHITE SOUPS. 
 
 335 
 
 ton onions to scald, tnen pass them in butter, and! when tender 
 add to-iit the soup, and serve it up. 
 
 White Onion Soup. 
 
 Boil, or rather stew, over a gentle fire, in two quarts of 
 strong broth, four or five large onions, peeled and chopped 
 small. Then slice a French roll, and putting about half of it 
 in the broth, and the rest at the bottom of the soup dish, beat 
 up the yelks of four eggs with half a pint of cream, and stir 
 them well in to prevent the soup from curdling. When the 
 eggs are well incorporated, and sufficiently done, pour the 
 whole over the slices of French roll in the soup dish, and serve 
 it up garnished with small boiled onions. This is a very 
 agreeable and salutary soup ; particularly excellent for all vale¬ 
 tudinarians afflicted with the stone or gravel, gout, rheuma¬ 
 tism, or asthma. 
 
 Another way.—Take twelve onions, one turnip, one head 
 of celery, cut in thin slices, put them into a stew-pan with a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, and one quart of white broth. 
 Let all stew till very tender, adding another quart of broth, 
 and rub it through a tammy; add one pint of boded cream, 
 and two dozen button onions, boiled soft to it: season with 
 salt. 
 
 Turnip Soup. 
 
 Twelve turnips, two onions, one head of celery, cut in 
 slices, and proceed as directed for onion soup, adding two 
 dozen pieces of turnip cut with a cutter, and boiled tender; 
 when done, season with salt. 
 
 Another way.—Take, off a knuckle of veal, all the meat 
 that can be made into cutlets, &c. and set the remainder on 
 to stew with an onion, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, and 
 five pints of water; cover it close, and let it do on a slow fire, 
 four or five hours at least. Strain it, and set it by till next 
 day; then take the fat and sediment from it, and simmer it 
 with turnips cut into small dice till tender, seasoning it with 
 salt and pepper. Before serving, rub down half a spoonful of 
 flour with half a pint of good cream, and the size of a walnut 
 of butter. Let a small roll simmer in the soup till wet through, 
 
336 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 and serve this with it. it should be as thick as middling 
 cream. 
 
 1lice Soup. 
 
 Put a pound of rice and a little cinnamon into two quarts 
 of water. Cover it close, and let it simmer very gently till the 
 rice is quite tender. Take out the cinnamon, then sweeten it 
 to your palate ; grate into it half a nutmeg, and let it stand 
 till it is cold. Then beat up the yelks of three eggs, with half 
 a pint of white wine; mix them well together, and stir them 
 into the rice. Set the whole over a slow fire, and keep stirring 
 it all the time, lest it should curdle. When it is of a good 
 thickness and boils, take it up, and keep stirring it till you 
 pour it into your dish. 
 
 Another way.—Take a quarter of a pound of good rice; 
 wash it in different waters; boil, drain, and put it into a little 
 pot or stew-pan, wet it a little, and break it slowly under the 
 furnace; when done, add a sufficient quantity of veal stock: 
 let it be properly salted, and serve. 
 
 Another way.—Truss a capon as a fowl; leave the pinions, 
 truss them nicely; put it in a pot with a bunch of herbs well 
 seasoned, and two onions, one stuck with two cloves; wet 
 the whole with good white stock, and skim it. During the 
 time it is cooking, prepare rice as in the last article; skim it, 
 and let the rice swell: when ready to serve, put into the rice 
 the liquor in which the capon was cooked, first having put it 
 through a gauze search, and adding a spoonful of beef stock 
 to give it a fine colour; unskewer and dish the capon; lay it 
 in a dish, strew a little salt on the breast, with a spoonful of 
 juice, or the broth in which it was dressed, and serve it as a 
 remove for the soup. 
 
 Fowl or Capon in Rice. 
 
 Truss the capon as in the last article, and dress a pound 
 of rice exactly as the preceding; put it with the capon into a 
 pot large enough to contain them without being too full; put 
 in but little liquor that it may not be too thin; when the 
 capon is done, which will be be known by pinching the wing, 
 unskewer it, and put it into a dish , take the fat off the rice 
 
WHITE SOUPS. 
 
 00)7 
 
 add somo beef soup to colour it, pour it over the capon, and 
 serve it for an entree or a remove. 
 
 Vermicelli Soup. 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal and a scrag of mutton, from each 
 of which cut the flesh into small pieces about the size of wal¬ 
 nuts, and mix them together, with five or six thin slices of 
 lean ham. Put into the bottom of the pan about four 
 ounces of bu*tter, and then the meat; to which add three or 
 four blades of mace, two or three carrots, two parsnips, two 
 large onions, with a clove stuck on both sides of each: cut in 
 four or five heads of celery washed clean, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, eight or ten morels, and an anchovy. When your 
 articles are thus prepared and mixed together in the pan, cover 
 it very close, and set it over a slow fire, without any water, 
 till the gravy is drawn out of the meat. When this ’is done, 
 pour it out into a pot or large basin; then let the meat brown, 
 (taking caie that it does not burn,) and put into the saucepan 
 four quarts of water. Let the whole boil gently till it is 
 wasetd to three pints; then strain it, and mix with it the first 
 gravy drawn from the meat. Set it on the fire, and add two 
 ounces of vermicelli, a nice head of celery cut small, cayenne 
 pepper and salt to your taste, and let the whole boil about six 
 minutes. Lay a small French roll in the soup dish, pour the 
 soup upon it, strew some of the vermicelli on the surface, and 
 then serve it to table. 
 
 Another way.—Put two ounces of vermicelli into three 
 quarts of veal gravy or stock, then rub it through a tammis, 
 season it with salt, let it boil, and skim it well. Beat the 
 yelks of four eggs, mix them with half a pint of cream, and 
 stir the whole gradually into the soup, which must be set to 
 simmer for a few minutes, and it will then be fit to serve up. 
 Some of the vermicelli may be reserved to add to the soup, if 
 it is wanted. 
 
 Macaroni Soup 
 
 Boil a pound of the best macaroni in a quart of good 
 stock till quite tender; then take out half, and put it into 
 another stew-pot. To the remainder add some more stock, 
 a 15 2 x 
 
339 
 
 COIMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 and boil it till you can pulp all the macaroni through a fine 
 sieve. Then add together that, the two liquors, a pint or 
 more of cream boiling hot, the macaroni that was first taken 
 out, and half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese : make it 
 hot, but do not let it boil. Serve it with the crust of a French 
 roll cut into the size of a shilling. 
 
 Queen Soup. 
 
 To three quarts of white gravy, add one small onion, one 
 head of celery, a small piece of parsnip, the crumb of three 
 French rolls, the breast of a fowl that has been dressed, or in 
 lieu of it a pound of the whitest part of veal dressed and 
 pounded very fine with a little of the soup, and add three 
 ounces of Jordan almonds, blanched, well pounded. When 
 it has boiled all together half an hour, rub it through a tammy 
 or sieve, and add one pint of good cream, well scalded ; then 
 season with a little salt and a small piece of sugar. It must 
 not boil much after the cream is in. 
 
 Soup a-la-Flamande. 
 
 Take two or three quarts of good white gravy, put in a 
 small handful of spinach and sorrel, and let it be boiled tender 
 in the soup : season it with salt, and while it is boiling stir in 
 it a pint of cream, well mixed with six yelks of eggs, about 
 two minutes before putting in the tureen. 
 
 This is used to thicken any white sauce; it must be 
 strained through a sieve or tammy. 
 
 White Celery Soup. 
 
 Two quarts of white gravy boiled with six heads of celery, 
 when done tender, strain it, and cut six heads more very fine 
 to put in the soup: pass oft* two ounces of butter, and three 
 table-spoonfuls of flour; then add the soup with the celery;; 
 when sufficiently done, add half a pint of good cream, scalded : 
 season as the others. 
 
 N. B. Macaroni, vermicelli, rice, or any vegetable, cut 
 fine, may be put in the soup the same way as the celery, and 
 the name changed accordingly; but they should all be boiled 
 first. 
 
GRAVIES. 
 
 339 
 
 An Economical Soup recommended by Dr. Kitchener 
 
 Put four ounces of clean Scotch barley, anti as much onion 
 sliced, into five quarts of water. Let it boil gently an hour, 
 and pour it off. Then put into the pan about two ounces of 
 dripping, clarified suet, or fat bacon minced. When this is 
 melted, stir therein four ounces ol oatmeal, and make the 
 whole into a paste, Next add gradually the broth, and bring 
 it to a boil. Season with cayenne, black pepper, or allspice. 
 1 he flavour may be increased by garlic, shalot, or some more 
 onion. 
 
 r^vwwwi 
 
 GRAVIES. 
 
 A plain Gravy. 
 
 To a pound of lean juicy beef, notched and floured, put as 
 much water as will make a pint of gravy. Stew this gently 
 till the goodness of the meat is extracted; and about half 
 an hour before it is taken off the fire, put into it a crust of 
 bread. When done, strain it off, and remove the fat, thicken 
 it with some butter rolled in flour, and season it with black or 
 cayenne pepper, and salt. An onion and sweet herbs may be 
 added at pleasure. 
 
 To draw Gravy. 
 
 Slice two pounds of beef, and fry them brown, with two or 
 three onions, and as many carrots. Next put them into a 
 saucepan with a little broth, and stew gently till the gravy is 
 entirely drawn from the meat: then put in a quart of boiling 
 water, and stew for three hours more; after which, strain it; 
 leaving the fat till the gravy is wanted. 
 
 Another method of malting Gravy. 
 
 lake pieces of beef, veal, and mutton, cut them small, and 
 lay them alternately in a stew-pan, the beef undeimost, then 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 840 
 
 the mutton, with a small piece of bacon; a slice or two of 
 carrot, same mace, black pepper, a large onion sliced, a bunch 
 of sweet herbs, and over these the veal. Cover the pan 
 close, and set it on a slow fire for six or seven minutes, now 
 and then shaking it; then throw in some flour, and pour in 
 some boiling water till the meat is completely covered; then 
 close the pan again, and let the gravy stew till it is rich 
 and good; season to your taste with salt, and strain it off 
 for use. 
 
 A good keeping Gravy. 
 
 Put an ounce of butter into a frying-pan, which must be 
 kept at such a height from the fire, that while flour is 
 sprinkling over the butter, it may become brown, and not 
 black. Add to it two pounds of lean beef, one quart of water, 
 half a pint of red or white wine, three anchovies, two shalots, 
 some white pepper, a few cloves, and a little mace, with three 
 or four mushrooms, or pickled walnuts. Let the whole stew 
 gently about an hour, when it may be strained off for use. It 
 will keep several days. 
 
 Beef Gravy. 
 
 Lay at the bottom of a stew-pan, one slice of ham or lean 
 bacon, four or five pounds of gravy-beef cut small, a carrot, 
 an onion with two cloves stuck in it, and a head of celery; 
 put thereto a pint of broth, or water, cover it close, and set it 
 over a moderate fire, till the liquor is reduced so low as barely 
 to prevent the meat and vegetables from burning; then turn 
 the whole over, to brown slightly and equally; put in three 
 quarts of boiling water, and as the scum rises take it off. 
 Great care is necessary to observe the time when the boiling 
 water is added; for if it is poured in too soon, the colour and 
 flavour of the gravy will be injured, and if it be left till the 
 meat sticks to the pan, it will acquire a bad taste. Set the 
 gravy by the side of the fire, where it may stew gently for 
 about four hours; strain through a tammis; then clear it well 
 from fat, aid set it in a cool place for use. 
 
gravies. 
 
 341 
 
 A strong savoury Gravy. 
 
 Int^ a 3tew-pan put one or two slices of undressed ham or 
 hicon, two pounds of beef or veal, a carrot, one large onion 
 with four cloves stuck in it, a head of celery, a small bundle 
 of parsley, lemon thyme, and savoury, a few leaves of sweet 
 basil, a bay leaf and a shalot, a piece of lemon-peel, and 
 twelve berries of allspice; pour over this half a pint of water, 
 cover it close, and let it simmer gently on a slow fire for half 
 an hour; in which time it will be nearly dry; watch it care¬ 
 fully, and suffer it to take a good brown colour on every side; 
 then add thereto three pints of boiling water, and let it boil 
 two hours, when it will be very rich. 
 
 Cullis or thickened Gravy. 
 
 Cut six pounds of lean veal in slices, with two pounds of 
 raw lean ham, in a stew-pan ; also two ounces of butter, a 
 handful of mushrooms chopped, three onions, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, one carrot, a rind of lemon, and a tea-spoonful of 
 allspice, clove, and mace together. Let it just brown at the 
 bottom, then add four quarts of good brown gravy, and let it 
 boil three or four hours; then strain it off; pass off half 
 a pound of butter, with two teacup-fuls of flour, so as not to 
 be too brown, but sufficient to colour the sauce; add the 
 sauce, and boil it well ten minutes, stirring it. This is called 
 bi own cullis, and is the foundation of all other brown sauces ; 
 put it through a tammy. 
 
 Sauce Tournee. 
 
 Take of veal and ham the same quantity as for brown 
 sauce, with the same ingredients; when boiled three hours 
 strain it and add to it the same quantity of butter and flour 
 boiled well together half an hour, and strain. It must not 
 be browned. This sauce may bo used in any fish sauces, 
 either white or brown, and with any of the vegetable sauces, 
 or for made dishes. 
 
 Jihite Sauce , or Bechamel. 
 
 Chop two pounds of veal and one pound of ham in small 
 
312 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 pieces, a pottle of musarooms, and two onions sliced ; four 
 cloves, two blades of mace, a sprig of thyme and marjoram, 
 and a quarter of a pound of butter. Let all stew gently with 
 three pints of good white gravy, one hour and a half; mix 
 some of the gravy with two teacup-fuls of flour, and add it to 
 a quart of cream: let it boil a quarter of an hour, stirring it 
 well that it does not burn at the bottom; strain, and season 
 it with salt. This sauce is universally used in all white 
 sauces, and is invariably the foundation of them all. 
 
 A very rich Beef Gravy. 
 
 Take three pounds of lean beef steaks, hack them witl 
 the back of a cleaver, and put them into a stew-pan or frying- 
 pan with a quartet of a pound of butter, some salt, a small 
 onion stuck with cloves, a few pepper-corns, a blade of mace, 
 and a sprig of thyme; then cover it down close and let it 
 stew over a gentle fire for half an hour or longer; then put 
 half a pint of water or rather more, three anchovies and a 
 small piece of lemon peel; let it stew a little while longer, 
 and then strain it off* for use. 
 
 A rich Gravy. 
 
 Cut beef into thin pieces; slice some onions thin, flour 
 and fry them of a light brown; put them into a stew-pan, 
 pour boiling water on the browning in the frying-pan, boil 
 it up, and pour it on the meat. Add thereto a bunch of 
 parsley, thyme, and savory; a little knotted marjoram, tar¬ 
 ragon, some mace, berries of allspice, whole black pepper, one 
 or two cloves, and a slice of ham or gammon of bacon. Let 
 the whole simmer till the juice of the meat is extracted; and 
 while doing, skim it often. If the gravy is for hare or stewed 
 fish, an anchovy must be added. 
 
 A Gravy which gives the Flavour of Venison to Mutton. 
 
 Pick a stale woodcock or snipe, cut it to pieces, first taking 
 out the bag from the entrails, and simmer with as much un¬ 
 seasoned meat-gravy as is necessary. Strain it, and serve it 
 in the dish with the mutton. 
 
GRAVIES, 
 
 343 
 
 Mutton Gravy , for Venison or Hare. 
 
 The best gravy for venison is made of the trimmings of the 
 joint itseif; but if these cannot be spared, cut up a scrag of 
 mutton, and broil the pieces till they are brown; put them 
 into a stew-pan with a quart of boiling water, cover it close, 
 and let it simmer for an hour; then uncover the pan, and 
 suffer the liquor to be reduced to three-quarters of a pint; 
 strain it through a hair sieve, take off the fat, season with 
 some salt, and send the gravy to table. It may be coloured 
 with a little browning. 
 
 Gravy for a Fowl. 
 
 Wash the feet well, cut them and the neck into small 
 pieces; simmer them with a little toasted bread, a slice of 
 onion, some parsley and thyme, pepper and salt, liver and 
 gizzard, in a quarter of a pint of water, till one half is evapo¬ 
 rated. Take out the liver, bruise it, and strain the liquor to 
 it; then thicken it with flour and butter, and add a tea¬ 
 spoonful of mushroom catsup. 
 
 Gravy for Poultry. 
 
 Take a pound of gravy beef, and score it with a knife in 
 several places; flour it a good deal, and put it into a stew- 
 pan with some butter ready melted. • Fry the meat, turning 
 it over and over, that it may be thoroughly browned; then 
 pour in three pints of boiling water, some whole pepper, two 
 or three cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a large crust of 
 bread. Cover the pan close, and let it boil till the liquor is 
 reduced to a pint; then strain it off, add some salt, and thicken 
 it, if necessary, with flour and butter. 
 
 Liver Gravy for a Turkey or Fowl. 
 
 Boil the neck, heart, liver, and gizzard of a turkey in three 
 quarters of a pint, or if a fowl, in half a pint of water, with a 
 little thyme and savory, and a small piece of toasted bread. 
 When the liver is done thoroughly, take it out, and let the 
 rest stew till reduced about one half Strain it off, then put 
 
COMPOUND COO'KERY. 
 
 £ 4.1 
 
 in a spoonful of mushroom catsup, and the liver, after having 
 pounded it in a mortar. When these are well mixed, strain 
 the liquor once more, add a little butter rolled in flour, and 
 give it a good simmering over the fire. If it is too thick, 
 pour in some boiling water, and simmer it a few minutes 
 longer. 
 
 Fish Gravy. 
 
 Put as much skate, or as many small eels or flounders cut 
 in pieces, as you shall want for gravy, into a saucepan, with 
 water enough to cover them. Add thereto some sweet heibs, 
 a little whole pepper and mace, a small piece of lemon peel, 
 and a very little horse-radish. Stew all these tdl the fish 
 is drawn down, and put in, when about half done, a toasted 
 crust of bread to give it a browning. Strain it off, thicken it 
 with a piece of butter and flour, and flavour it with the es¬ 
 sence of anchovy; or you may stew two anchovies with it. 
 
 Another Fish Gravy. 
 
 Skin two or three eels, or some flounders ; gut and wash 
 them, clean; then cut them into small pieces, and put them 
 into a saucepan; put cold water over them and add thereto 
 a little crust of bread made brown, two blades of mace, some 
 whole pepper, sweet herbs, a piece of lemon peel, one or two 
 anchovies, and a tea-spoonful of horse-radish. Cover the pan 
 close and let it simmer ; add a little butter and flour, and boil 
 the whole together. 
 
 Ham, Sauce.* 
 
 When a ham is nearly done with, clear the bone of the re¬ 
 maining meat, taking care to leave out the rusty parts; beat 
 that and the bone to a mash, with a rolling pin; put it into 
 a saucepan, with three spoonfuls of gravy; set it over a slow 
 fire, and stir it all the while, or it will stick to the bottom. 
 
 * All gravies ars greatly improved by the addition of tie jelly which 
 settles round the dish in which a ham is placed, care being taken so to 
 proportion it as not to exceed them much in saltness. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 345 
 
 After it has been on some time, put in a small quartity of 
 sweet herbs, some pepper, and half a pint of beef gravy ; 
 cover it close, and let it stew gently. When it has obtained 
 the flavour of the herbs, strain it off. 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 In entering on this part of the work, the reader is re¬ 
 quested to observe, that it is not intended here to give direc- 
 tions for the original preparations of essences, tinetures, catsup, 
 vinegais, &c. all of which will be attended to in their proper 
 place ; but merely to direct the composition for present use, 
 supposing the ingredients to be at hand. 
 
 In the preparation of sauces, four things demand especial 
 attention. 
 
 1. The combination—All incongruous mixtures to be 
 avoided, and those substances and flavours only brought to¬ 
 gether, that from a kind of natural affinity, will blend °in one 
 harmonious whole. 
 
 S. The adaptation.—The sauce must not only be in 
 itself good and well composed; but suitable to the article with 
 which it is intended to be eaten. 
 
 3. The preparation.—For want of attention as to the pre¬ 
 cise manner and time of mingling the various ingredients, the 
 most expensive articles may be lavished and the most suitable 
 brought together, and yet no agreeable result be produced. 
 Who has not been disgusted at melted butter, watery, oiled, or 
 lumpy ? — sauces into the composition of which cream, almonds, 
 or acids enter curdled ?—and others in which solid substances 
 (such as lobster or oyster) should mingle with the butter in 
 rich and smooth consistence, but of which the contents of the 
 tureen rather resembled a puddle of dingy water at top, and 
 gravel stones at bottom, and which every time of helping re¬ 
 quire to be stirred up to secure to each guest a taste of the 
 b 15 2 y 
 
346 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 different ing redients ? To avoid these very unpleasant ap¬ 
 pearances the young cook should accustom herself to observe 
 and acquire the very best manner of mixing the vaiious in¬ 
 gredients, and in particular pay attention to the following 
 simple directions:— 
 
 (1.) In melting butter, be careful that the flour is well 
 rubbed in with the butter, and put into the water or gravy; 
 not put into the saucepan first and the water or gravy added 
 to it. 
 
 (2.) That the water or gravy be cold when added to flour 
 and butter. 
 
 (3.) That the saucepan be shaken only one way. 
 
 (4.) That it be not done till the moment it is wanted; or 
 at any rate that it be not suffered to stand on the hod, which 
 would be sure to oil it; if it must be prepared beforehand, let 
 it rather be set away and become quite cold. 
 
 (5.) Let savoury ingredients, such as wine, catsup, lemon- 
 juice, aromatic spices, &c. be added only just long enough 
 before serving to extract their flavour and properly blend with 
 tbe basis of the sauce. 
 
 (6.) Sauces in which cream and eggs are mixed, must be 
 diligently stirred one way after the addition of those articles, 
 to prevent their curdling; and suffered to warm through, but 
 not to boil. The same remark applies to the mixing of 
 capers, and all other pickles and acids in sauce. 
 
 The fourth matter that requires particular attention is the 
 manner of serving. Sauces must be perfectly free from all 
 fat and scum floating at top, and they must be served perfectly 
 hot. The first greatly depends on the manner in which the 
 whole process is conducted, and may be farther secured by 
 straining through a cloth dipped in cold water, which will 
 keep back all greasy particles. For the latter be sure to have 
 the tureens, sauce boats, and ladles thoroughly hot, and the 
 sauce served up the moment it is poured out. 
 
 Melted Butter. 
 
 For this purpose have a very nice block tin, or well tinned 
 copper saucepan, that is not used for any thing besides.—In 
 proportion to the quantity required, to one ounce cf good 
 
s.u ci:s. 
 
 347 
 
 Fiesh butter may be added one dessert spoonful of cold water 
 or milk, and as much flour as will cover a sixpence. This is 
 a very small quantity; for a moderate sized boat, twice the 
 quantity is required; and for fish you can scarcely melt less than 
 a quarter of a pound of butter. 
 
 When milk can with propriety be used, rather less butter 
 will suffice; but milk is always to be avoided when any acid 
 mixture is intended, as capers, lemon-juice, &c. 
 
 Let the butter be cut in small pieces, and well mixed with 
 the flour on a trencher, then added to the water or milk in 
 the saucepan, and melted over a clear brisk fire, shaking it all 
 the time one way.—When it thoroughly boils it will be of the 
 consistency of a very thick cream, and should be poured out 
 immediately. 
 
 If the butter is intended to be mixed with catsup, wine, or 
 other liquid, a smaller proportion of water must be allowed— 
 in fact as little as will just preserve the other ingredients from 
 
 If by any means the butter become oiled, it may be par¬ 
 tially restored by adding to it a spoonful of water as cold as 
 possible, and pouring the whole very quickly backwards and 
 forwards several times. 
 
 Another way.—Put a quarter of a pound of butter in a 
 stew-pan over a slow fire, shaking it all the time till melted 
 and quite hot. 
 
 Parsley and Butter. 
 
 Pick very carefully some fine young parsley. Tie it up in a 
 bundle, throw it with a tea-spoonful of salt into half a pint or 
 more of fast boiling water; let it boil as quickly as possible 
 about eight or ten mintues. Then drain it on a sieve, chop it 
 up very fine and quite free from the stalks, and stir it into a 
 sufficient quantity of melted butter just before serving up.— 
 This sauce is usually served with boiled fowl, rabbit, and veal, 
 and sometimes with scrag of mutton or lamb, also with boiled 
 cels, jacks, and pikes. 
 
 Fennel Sauce. 
 
 This is prepared exactly in the same manner, and is usu¬ 
 ally served with mackreal, and sometimes with salmon. 
 
COMPOUND COOKE KIT, 
 
 348 
 
 Fennci, Mint, and Parsley 
 
 In the same quantities, are sometimes made into sauce, with 
 melted butter seasoned with pepper and salt, and a squeeze of 
 lemon-juice. This sauce is principally used for calf's-feet, 
 boiled lamb, &c. 
 
 Spanish Sauce 
 
 Is merely a very strong gravy made from veal with slices 
 of bac n and ham, with the addition of liquor in which have 
 been 1 died several kinds of meat, poultry, and game, jme 
 greater variety the better,) and flavoured with carrots and 
 onions. When very rich, strain it off’, and set on again, over 
 a slow fire, with the addition of a bunch of parsley and young 
 onions, half a bay-leaf, a clove of garlic, a little sweet basil 
 and thyme, and two or three cloves ; let this simmer gently for 
 half or three quarters of an hour'; then skim and strain it 
 again; set it over or beside a slow fire, and let it simmer until 
 it is considerably reduced, is perfectly clear, and if tried with 
 a spoon will readily form a stiff jelly. This will keep several 
 days, and may be used as occasion requires, when a part of it 
 may be warmed with an equal quantity of wine, either Ma¬ 
 deira, Champagne, or Burgundy, according to the nature of 
 the sauce desired. 
 
 This sauce is sometimes flavoured also with the parings of 
 truffles, and stalks of mushrooms. 
 
 Spanish Ragout Sauce. 
 
 Boil one dozen button onions, also two dozen of chesnuts 
 tender, and peel them ; add a sweetbread, broiled and cut in 
 pieces, with two dozen forcemeat balls; add twelve mushrooms, 
 six truffles cut in slices, one pint of brown sauce, two spoon¬ 
 fuls of tarragon vinegar; boil all together, and season with salt 
 and pepper. 
 
 Another way.—Slice a pound of gravy beef and a quarter 
 of a pound of ham into thin bits, and lay them in a small stew- 
 pan, with four cloves of garlic and a carrot sliced, and a bit of 
 butter, brown these over a very slow fire, turning them to 
 draw out their juices. When browned put in a quart ef clear 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 349 
 
 broth, a.faggot of herbs, a little butter rolled in browned flour, 
 four bruised cloves, and a little cayenne. Let this simmer for 
 a long time; skim off the fat, and strain the gravy, which 
 should be reduced to nearly a pint. 
 
 Kelly's Garlic Sauce , for Tripe , Cowheels , or Calf's 
 
 Head. 
 
 Take a spoonful of garlic vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of 
 made mustard, brown sugar, and black pepper. Stir these into 
 a half pint of oiled butter. 
 
 Sauce Menehould. 
 
 Put into a stewpan a bit of butter, broken in pieces ; shake 
 o\rer it a little flour, and add a little milk or cream ; season it 
 with parsley, young onions, half a bay-leaf, mushrooms, and 
 shalots ; put it on the fire, keep stirring it, pass it through a 
 search, put it again upon the fire, with some chopped parsley, 
 and a little pepper. 
 
 Italian Sauce Menehould. 
 
 Chop two heads of garlic, eight shalots, four mushrooms, 
 and a tea-spoonful of parsley; add two table spoonfuls of sweet 
 oil; pass it off; add a half pint of white sauce, or brown, and 
 one glass of white wine. Season with pepper and salt. 
 
 Sauce a la Maitre-d?hotel. 
 
 Put a piece of butter into a saucepan with some chopped 
 parsley, some tarragon leaves, one or two leaves of balm, with 
 salt, lemon, or a glass of verjuice; mix the whole with a 
 wooden spoon until they are w'ell incorporated. 
 
 Sauce a la Matelote. 
 
 Put into a saucepan a ladleful of reduced Espagnole ; when 
 done, put in small onions which have been fried in butter, 
 with some dressed mushrooms and artichoke bottoms; when 
 ready to serve, put in the size of a small walnut of butter; 
 shake it well, in order to mix it without breaking the ingre¬ 
 dients, and serve. 
 
350 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY 
 
 Sauce Paivrade. 
 
 Cut twelve small dices of ham and put them into a stew- 
 pan, with a little bit of butter, five or six branches of parsley, 
 two or three young onions cut in two, a clove of garlic, a bay- 
 leaf, a little sweet basil, thyme, and two cloves ; put them to¬ 
 gether upon a quick fire; when they are well done, put in a 
 little fine pepper, a large spoonful of vinegar, and four spoon¬ 
 fuls of Spanish sauce; shake and boil it, draw it to the edge of 
 the stove and let it simmer three quarters of an hour ; skim, 
 and pass it through a tammy. 
 
 Ragout Sauce. 
 
 Blanch six fat livers, twenty inside eggs, and twelve combs 
 of fowls, and one dozen of forcemeat balls ; boil them all ten¬ 
 der with twelve mushrooms, four truffles, and two sweetbreads ; 
 put them into a pint and a half of brown sauce; season with 
 salt and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. 
 
 The inside eggs of a hen may be procured at the poul¬ 
 terers at all times. 
 
 Sauce d la Nonparielle 
 
 Cut some dices of ham very equal, with the same quantity 
 of truffles; put them into a stewpan, with a bit of butter upon 
 a slow fire, and let them simmer a quarter of an hour; put 
 three skimming spoonfuls of gravy; add half a glass of 
 good white wine, and a spoonful of rich stock ; let it dissolve ; 
 put in the whites of hard eggs and mushrooms in the same 
 quantity as the ham and truffles, and cut in the same manner; 
 also lobsters’ tails and spawn, if there is any; finish with a bit 
 of butter the size of a walnut and half. 
 
 Truffle Sauce. 
 
 Cut down truffles in rounds or dices; put them on a slow 
 fire, with a bit of butter, and let them simmer; put in a suf¬ 
 ficient quantity of Spanish sauce or plain beef gravy, and 
 white wine in equal proportion; dissolve and skim it, and 
 finish with a bit of butter. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 351 
 
 Observe, that acid should never be put to this sauce, as it 
 takes off its softness, and the wine is quite sufficient. 
 
 Curry Sauce. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan six spoonfuls of rich stock either brown 
 or white, a tea-spoonful of curry powder; take a little saffron, 
 boil it in a small pan: when it has given its colour rub it 
 through a search into the sauce; let it boil, and skim it; if it 
 is not hot enough put in a little cayenne pepper. 
 
 Tomata or Love-apple Sauce. 
 
 Take from ten to fifteen ripe tomatas, according to the size 
 and quality; put them into a jar, and set it in a cool oven. 
 When they are soft, take off the skins, pick out the seeds, 
 and mix the pulp with a capsicum, a clove of garlic, and a very 
 little vinegar, ginger, cayenne, white pepper, and salt; pulp 
 this through a sieve, and simmer it for a few minutes. 
 
 Another way.—Put tomatas when perfectly ripe into an 
 earthen jar; and set it in an oven, when the bread is drawn, 
 till they are quite soft; then separate the skins from the 
 pulp; and mix this with capsicum vinegar, and a few cloves of 
 garlic pounded, which must both be proportioned to the quan¬ 
 tity of fruit. Add powdered ginger, and salt to your taste. 
 Some white wine vinegar and cayenne may be used instead of 
 capsicum vinegar. Keep the mixture in small wide-mouthed 
 bottles, well corked, and in a cool dry place. 
 
 Another way.—Take a dozen of tomatas very ripe, and of 
 a fine red; take off the stalks, open and take out the seeds, 
 and press them in the hand to take out the water; put the ex¬ 
 pressed tomatas into a stew-pan, with the size of an egg of 
 butter, a bay leaf, and a little thyme; put it over a moderate 
 fire; stir it till it becomes a pulp; while it is doing, put in a 
 spoonful of Spanish sauce ; when it is thus prepared, rub it 
 through a search, and put it into a stew-pan with two spoonfuls 
 of Spanish sauce; reduce to the consistence of a light liquor; 
 put in a little salt, and a small quantity of cayenne pepper. 
 
 White Ravigate Sauce. 
 
 Take cresses, bur net, chervil, tarragon, a few stalks of 
 
352 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 celery, and two balm leaves, prick and wash them, put them 
 into a vessel, and pour over them a little boiling water; cover 
 and let them infuse three quarters of an hour; strain, and put 
 the juice in a stew-pan with three skimming spoonfuls of 
 gravy, half a spoonful of white vinegar, and the half of the 
 size of an egg of butter; pass, beat up, and serve. 
 
 Cold Ravigote Sauce. 
 
 Take the same ravigote, or small herb, as that directed 
 above; mince it very fine ; add a spoonful of capers also finely 
 minced, one or two anchovies, well bruised, a little fine pepper 
 and salt; put all into a marble mortar, beat till all is com¬ 
 pletely mixed; add a raw yelk; while beating, wet it with a 
 little oil, and from time to time with a little white vinegar to 
 prevent its turning; continue till it is of the consistence of 
 sauce; if wanted very strong, add mustard, and serve. 
 
 Drest Ravigote Sauce. 
 
 Take the same ravigote or herbs already mentioned, clean 
 and blanch them; when cooked throw them into fresh 
 water; drain, and beat them well in a mortar; rub them 
 through a search; moisten them with oil and vinegar; season 
 with pepper and salt. 
 
 Green Sauce. 
 
 To two or three spoonfuls of rich jelly made from poultry, 
 add two ounces of butter a little dusted with flour. When 
 melted, add a ravigote of herbs as in the foregoing article, and 
 with the green of spinach which is thus prepared:—express 
 the juice by wringing the spinage in a cloth, put the juice 
 into a stew-pan upon the corner of the stove; it rises like 
 milk; when it does, put it through a gauze search; when 
 ready to serve, add till the colour is obtained; put in lemon 
 juice or vinegar; pass, and serve it immediately, as it may 
 become yellow. 
 
 Another way. Mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice, a 
 glass of white wine, and some scalded gooseberries. Add 
 sugar, and a bit of butter. Boil them up. 
 
 Sauce Robart, (or Robert ) for Steaks. 
 
 Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a saucepan, 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 353 
 
 set it over the fire, and when browning, throw in a handful of 
 sliced onions cut small; fry them brown, but don’t let them 
 burn; add half a spoonful of flour, shake the onions in it, and 
 give it another fry: then put four spoonfuls of gravy, and 
 some pepper and salt, and boil it gently ten minutes; skim 
 off the fat; add a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a spoonful 
 of vinegar, and the juice of half a lemon; boil it all, and pour 
 it round the steaks. They should be of a fine yellow brown, 
 and garnished with fried parsley and lemon. 
 
 Another way.—Chop three onions fine; put two ounces of 
 butter, and fry them a light brown ; when done, add a qaurter 
 of a pint of brown sauce, a spoonful of ready made mustard; 
 season with salt and pepper. 
 
 Another way.—Cut in rounds or dice six large onions or 
 more, if necessary; put them into a stew-pan with butter; set 
 them on a good fire, dredge, and brown them; moisten them 
 with gravy, and let them simmer an hour; add pepper and 
 salt; when finished, put in mustard, and serve. 
 
 Sauce Robert, for Pork or Goose. 
 
 Brown four or five onions very finely shred in a small 
 saucepan, with a good piece of butter. When of a fine rich 
 brown mix in a table-spoonful of browned flour, one of mush¬ 
 room catsup, and another of red wine, with half a pint of 
 broth, a salt-spoonful of pepper, and one of salt, and a tea¬ 
 spoonful of made mustard, with the juice of a lemon, or a 
 dessert spoonful of chili vinegar. This sauce is named after 
 the inventor, as we say cutlet Maintenon, or sandwiches. It 
 is a very favourite sauce. Tarragon vinegar will give it the 
 flavour of the French kitchen, which to some gourmands may 
 be a recommendation even as an accompaniment to English 
 fare. This sauce is eaten with rump steaks, whether stewed 
 or broiled. Pour it over them, and garnish with scraped 
 horse-radish, or fried parsley. 
 
 Sauce Royal. 
 
 Pass off eight shalots in a table- spoonful of sweet oil, put 
 half a pint of the sauce tournee ; add a glass of white wine 
 c 15 2 z 
 
354 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 or champaign, and strain it; pm two table-spoonfuls of cream 
 to whiten it. 
 
 N. B. Passing off is putting whatever herbs are chopped, 
 or otherwise, in butter, and letting them boil together four or 
 five minutes. 
 
 Queen Sauce. 
 
 Pound the breast of a fowl very fine, add to it a pint of 
 bechamel, and a quarter of a pint of cream: season it with 
 salt, and put in it a few drops of lemon juice. 
 
 Sorrel Sauce. 
 
 Put two quarts of sorrel in a stew-pan, well washed and 
 picked, with a small piece of butter; let it stew till soft. 
 When done, rub it through a tammy, put a small piece of 
 butter in it, and a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, a little 
 salt, and the squeeze of a lemon. 
 
 Endive Sauce. 
 
 Blanch twelve heads of endive; chop them and put them 
 in half a pint of good strong gravy; let them steiv till tender; 
 thicken them with half a pint of white sauce, and season 
 with salt. 
 
 Cucumber Sauce. 
 
 Peel, and cut three or four cucumbers down the middle, m 
 four parts, then again two inches long; take out the seeds 
 and cut them round at the ends, put them in a quarter of a 
 pint of vinegar and water, with some salt, and a large onion 
 cut in slices; let them remain in it one hour: strain them off, 
 and put them in a quarter of a pint of gravy, with one ounce 
 of butter, and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; let them stew in it 
 for three quarters of an hour, and when done tender, add half 
 a pint of white or brown sauce, with a little salt to season. 
 
 Herb Sauce. 
 
 Chop one onion, six mushrooms, and a small handful or 
 paisley, very fine; pass the whole off, in two ounces of butter. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 355 
 
 then add a gill either of white or brown sauce, and add a 
 squeeze of a lemon, and salt. 
 
 Onion Sauce. 
 
 Peel and throw onions into salt and water to prevent their 
 clackening. Boil them in plenty of water, and if they are 
 very acrid change the water; chop them, and with a wooden 
 spoon press them through a sieve; stir them into thin melted 
 butter, and heat up the sauce. 
 
 For tripe, made mustard may be mixed with this sauce,— 
 for smothering rabbits, boiled ducks, &c. cream may be added. 
 Some cooks use veal or clear beef gravy, instead of melted 
 butter, and others mash a white turnip along with the onions 
 where the flavour is thought too strong. Young onions, when 
 very small, may be served whole in the sauce. 
 
 Brown Onion Sauce. 
 
 Peel the onions, and boil them tender: squeeze the water 
 from them; then chop them, and add to them butter that 
 has been melted rich and smooth, but with a little good milk 
 instead of water; boil it up once, and serve it for boiled rab¬ 
 bits, partridges, scrag or knuckle of veal, or roast mutton. 
 A turnip boiled with the onions makes them milder. 
 
 Another way.—Boil six large onions soft; rub them 
 through a sieve; add three ounces of butter, passed off, one 
 table-spoonful of flour, with half a pint of cream : season with 
 a little salt and suear. 
 
 O 
 
 Another way.—Boil two dozen of button onions, all of a 
 size, till done tender: put half a pint of either bechamel or 
 brown sauce, and season with salt. 
 
 Another way.—This is a highly relishing sauce, suitable 
 to many different dishes, and a general favourite. Slice lar^e 
 mild Spanish onions, brown them in butter over a slow fire, 
 add good brown gravy, pepper, salt, cayenne, and a bit of but¬ 
 ter rolled in brown flour. Skim this, and put in half a glass 
 of Burgundy, Claret, or Port, the same quantity of mush¬ 
 room catsup, or, if more suitable to the dish, the sauce is to 
 accompany a dessert spoonful of walnut pickle, or slialot 
 vinegar, to give piquance. 
 
356 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY, 
 
 Onion Sauces as prepared by English Cooks. 
 
 Those who like the full flavour of onions, only cut ofl the 
 strings and tops (without peeling off any of the skins,) put 
 them into salt and water, and let them lie an hour; then wash 
 them, put them into a kettle with plenty of water, and boil 
 them till they are tender; now skin them, pass them through 
 a colander, and mix a little melted butter with them. 
 
 White Onion Sauce. 
 
 The following is a more mild and delicate preparation :— 
 Take half a dozen of the largest and whitest onions, (the 
 Spanish are the mildest, but these can only be had from 
 August to December,) peel them, and cut them in half, and 
 lay them in a pan of spring water for a quarter of an hour, 
 and then boil them tender, which will sometimes take an 
 hour: drain them well on a hair sieve, lay them on the chop¬ 
 ping-board and chop and bruise them, put them into a clean 
 saucepan, with some butter and flour, half a tea-spoonful oi 
 salt, and some cream, or good milk; stir it till it boils; then 
 rub the whole through a tammis or sieve, adding cream 01 
 milk, to make it the consistence you wish. 
 
 This is the usual sauce for boiled rabbits, mutton, or tripe. 
 
 Brown Onion Sauce , or Onion-Gravy. 
 
 Peel and slice the onions (some put in an equal quantity of 
 cucumber or celery) into a quart stew-pan, with an ounce ot 
 butter; set it on a slow fire, and turn the onion about till it is 
 very lightly browned; now gradually stir in half an ounce of 
 flour ; add a little broth, and a little pepper and salt ; boil it 
 up for a few minutes, add a table-spoonful of mushroom catsup, 
 (you may sharpen it with a little lemon juice or vinegar) and 
 rub it through a tammis, or fine sieve. 
 
 If this sauce is for steaks, shred an ounce of onions, fry 
 them a nice brown, and put them to the sauce you have rub¬ 
 bed through a tammis; or some very small round youRg silver 
 button onions, peeled and boiled tender, and put m whole when 
 your sauce is done, will be an acceptable addition. 
 
SAL'CLS. 
 
 357 
 
 Spanish or Portugal Onion Sauce. 
 
 After roasting them till they are somewhat more than half 
 done, peel them, and add some good thickened gravy or coulis, 
 season them with salt and cayenne pepper; and, adding a 
 glass of red port, a small quantity of powdered loaf sugar, and 
 the juice of half a lemon for four large onions, boil them till 
 tender, mash them up with a little butter, and send them to 
 table as sauce for whatever dish may be thought proper. 
 These onions are not only very delicious, but they are par¬ 
 ticularly salubrious and nourishing. 
 
 Poor Man's Sauce. 
 
 Take five or six shalots, hash them fine with a little pars¬ 
 ley; put them into a stew-pan with a little bouillon , juice, or 
 water, and a skimming-spoonful of good vinegar, a little salt, 
 and a little large pepper; simmer till enough, and serve. 
 
 Garlic Sauce. 
 
 Take five or six heads of garlic, beat them with two or 
 three ounces of butter, when well beaten rub through a search; 
 preserve the paste as it passes very carefully in a china basin; 
 then gradually rub to it two or three large table-spoonfuls of 
 oil and a little salt: by the force of rubbing it round and round, 
 it will become like butter, when it is fit for use. 
 
 Tartar Sauce. 
 
 Mince one or two shalots very fine with a little chervil and 
 tarragon; put it into an earthen vessel with mustard, a glass 
 of vinegar, salt and pepper; sprinkle it with oil, and stir it 
 constantly; if it gets too thick, put in a little vinegar; if too 
 salt, put in a little more mustard and oil. 
 
 Orange Gravy Sauce for Wild Fowl. 
 
 A half pint of claret, and the same quantity of good brown 
 gravy. Make the gravy boil, put the wine to it, with pep¬ 
 per, salt, cayenne, and the juice of two Seville oranges, or 
 one orange and a lemon. Let them simmer for a few minutes, 
 
358 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 and pouring some over the game, serve the rest very hot in a 
 sauce-boat. 
 
 Another way. Shave oft’ as thin as possible the yellow 
 rind of three oranges, blanch the rind a few minutes, then 
 strain off the liquor and put the rind into rich beef gravy with 
 a few pepper-corns; let it simmer on a stove or hold till 
 tender, then add the juice of the oranges carefully strained, 
 and serve, leaving the peel in the sauce. 
 
 Another way.—Put half a pint of veal gravy into a stew- 
 pan, add thereto six leaves of basil, a small onion, and some 
 orange or lemon-peel: let the whole boil for a few minutes, 
 and then strain it off. Now put into the liquor the juice of a 
 Seville orange or lemon, half a tea-spoonful of salt, as much 
 pepper, and a glass of port wine, to which, if agreeable, shalot 
 and cayenne pepper may be added. The method of cutting 
 open the breast, and squeezing in an orange, hardens the 
 fleshy As some persons like wild fowl without the sauce, 
 and underdone, it will be advisable always to send the latter 
 up in a boat. 
 
 Celery Sauce. 
 
 Wash, pare, and cut down in thin slices about two inches 
 long, a head of celery, the younger the better. Boil it till 
 tender in weak broth or water, and season with pounded 
 mace, nutmeg, grated white pepper, and salt. Thicken it 
 with a good piece of butter kneaded in flour. The juice of a 
 lemon is a great improvement, or for less delicate purposes a 
 little lemon pickle. 
 
 Brown Celery Sauce. 
 
 Stew and season as in the last receipt, thickened with 
 browned flour, and add a glass of red wine and a spoonful of 
 catsup. 
 
 Celery Sauce another mode. 
 
 Cut eight heads of celery in thin slices, one inch long; 
 put one ounce of butter and three spoonfuls of white gravy; 
 let them stew till tender; then add half a pint of bechamel 
 sauce; season with salt and a little sugar. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 S59 
 
 This sauce may be thickened with half a pint of brown 
 sauce, if wanted brown. 
 
 4 
 
 Parsley Sauce. 
 
 Boil a bunch of green parsley in salt and water for five 
 minutes; when done, chop it fine, put it in half a pint of 
 bechamel sauce, or good melted butter, the same quantity 
 Fennel sauce is made the same way. 
 
 Lemon Sauce. 
 
 Put the peel of a small lemon, cut very thin, into a pint of 
 sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon-thyme, and ten white 
 pepper-corns. Simmer gently till it tastes well of the lemon; 
 then strain it; and thicken it with a quarter of a pound of 
 butter, and a dessert spoonful of flour rubbed in it. Boil it 
 up, then pour the juice of a lemon strained into it, stirring it 
 well. Dish the chickens, and then mix a little white gravy, 
 quite hot, with the cream, but don’t boil them together: add 
 salt to your taste. 
 
 Another way.—Cut thin slices of lemon into very small 
 dice, and put them into melted butter; give it one boil, and 
 pour it over boiled fowls. 
 
 Another way.—Take the inside of one lemon free from 
 kernels and rind, cut in small dice; take the liver of a fowl 
 boiled and do the same; add half a pint of bechamel sauce, or 
 melted butter seasoned with salt. 
 
 This is in general used with boiled fowls or chickens. 
 
 Olive Sauce. 
 
 t 
 
 Stone some of the greenest French olives, and stir them in 
 as much veal gravy as is requisite; add a little lemon juice, 
 and season the whole with cayenne pepper and salt. 
 
 Carrot Suace. 
 
 Cut the red part of a small carrot into dice, boil them in a 
 little of your best stock gravy, till they come to a glaze, then 
 add cullis according to the quantity required. 
 
 i 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY, 
 
 300 
 
 Turnip Sauce. 
 
 Shake over the fire in a stew-pan six turnips pared, with a 
 little water, till they are done, and the liquor is exhausted ; 
 then rub them through a sieve : next take a little white gravy, 
 and cut more turnips; shake them as before, and add thereto 
 some more gravy. 
 
 Sauce Royal. 
 
 Put into a stew-pan about half a pound of lean ham cut 
 into thin slices ; add thereto a small fowl cut into pieces, with 
 a bundle of sweet herbs, or thyme and parsley, a few blades 
 of mace, about a quarter of a pint of good stock gravy, 
 six or eight shalots, and a head of celery. Simmer over a 
 slow fire till the stock is reduced to a glaze, then put in 
 about a quart of the best stock, and let it boil about half an 
 hour; strain it off, and put the liquor into a stew-pan again, 
 and reduce it nearly to a glaze, after which add a quart of 
 cullis, and season it according to the use to which it is to be 
 applied. 
 
 Allemand , or German Sauce. 
 
 To a few slices of ham, with some trimmings of poultry, 
 add three or four shalots, a small clove of garlic, a bay leaf, 
 a little tarragon, and a few spoonfuls of gravy stock; set the 
 stew-pan on the fire to simmer gently for half an hour, then 
 put in as much cullis as you will want sauce; and when it 
 has boiled a few minutes, squeeze into it a Seville orange, or 
 a lemon, and season it with cayenne pepper and salt. 
 
 Pontiff Sauce. 
 
 Put two or three slices of lean veal, and the same quantity 
 of ham, into a stew-pan, with some sliced onions, carrots, 
 parsley, and a head of celery. When brown, add about two 
 table-spoonfuls of white wine, some good gravy, a clove of 
 garlic, four shalots, two cloves, a little coriander seed, and 
 two slices of lemon peel. Boil this slowly till the juices are 
 drawn from the meat; then skim and strain the liquor through 
 a sieve. Previous to serving it vp, add some cullis and chop¬ 
 ped parsley. 
 
SAUCLS. 
 
 361 
 
 Sauce for a savoury Pie 
 
 Take some gravy, an anchovy or two, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, and a little mushroom liquor; boil it a few minutes, 
 then thicken it with burnt butter, and having added a glass of 
 port wine, open the pie and put it in. 
 
 Sauce for a Pig. 
 
 Take a pint of water, put therein a good slice of the crumb 
 of bread, a blade of mace, and a little whole pepper; boil 
 these together for about five or six minutes, and then pour off* 
 the water; remove the spices, and beat up the bread with a 
 piece of butter, and a little milk or cream. To this, currants 
 may also be added, if approved of, by boiling them in a glass 
 of wine and a little sugar. Or put to half a pint of good 
 beef gravy, and that which comes from the pig, a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour, and two spoonfuls of catsup; boil them 
 all together, then take the brains of the pig, bruise them with 
 sage, and pour the whole into your dish. 
 
 Sauce for a Hare. 
 
 Put a pint of cream, and half a pound of butter, into a 
 saucepan, and keep stirring the same with a spoon till the 
 butter is thoroughly melted, and the sauce thickened; season 
 it with a little grated nutmeg, and salt to your taste; then 
 take up the hare, and pour these ingredients into the dish. 
 
 Another way.—Take a pint of port wine, and a quarter 
 of a pound of powdered sugar, let them simmer over a slow 
 fire about fifteen minutes; add to them some good gravy, 
 thickened, if approved of, with a piece of butter roiled in flour, 
 or some currant jelly, and serve the sauce up in boats. 
 
 Sauce for a Loin of Veal. 
 
 Take all kinds of sweet herbs, and the yelks of three hard 
 eggs minced fine; boil them together with some currants, a 
 little grated bread, beaten cinnamon, sugar, and two whole 
 cloves. Pour this sauce into the dish, and add thereto tw'i 
 or three slices of a Se ville orange. 
 
 a 1 (> 3 a 
 
362 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Wow-wow Sauce , for Stewed or Boiled Beef. 
 
 Chop some parsley very fine, cut into quarters two or 
 throe small pickled cucumbers or walnuts, divide them into 
 small pieces, and set them aside till wanted. In the mean 
 time, put into a saucepan a little butter about the size of ail 
 egg, and when melted stir to it a table-spoonful of fine flour, 
 and about half a pint of the broth in which the meat was 
 boiled. Add a table-spoonful of vinegar, as much mushroom 
 catsup, or port wine, or some broth, and a tea-spoonful of 
 made mustard. Simmer the whole till it is as thick as you 
 want it. Then put in the parsley and pickle already pre¬ 
 pared, to get warm, and either pour the whole over the beef, 
 or send it up separately. 
 
 Salad Sauce. 
 
 Take the hard yelks of two eggs, a dessert-spoonful of 
 grated Parmesan cheese, the same quantity of tarragon vine¬ 
 gar, a little mustard, and a tea-spoonful of catsup; when well 
 mixed, add four spoonfuls of salad oil, and one of elder vine¬ 
 gar ; beat the whole well till the oil is thoroughly incorporated 
 with the other ingredients. 
 
 Sauce for a Turkey. 
 
 Cut the crust of a penny loaf thin, put it in cold water, 
 with a few pepper-corns and a little salt; boil it till soft, then 
 beat it well; add a quarter of a pound of butter, two spoon¬ 
 fuls of cream, and send it to table. 
 
 Sauce for a boiled Turkey. 
 
 Mix half a pound of butter with a tea-spoonful of flour, 
 put thereto a very little water, melt it, and add near a pint of 
 thick cream, with half an anchovy not washed; set it over 
 the fire; and as it boils, add a table-spoonful, or more, if 
 occasion, of real Indian soy. Turn it into the sauce tureen, 
 with the addition of some salt, and half a lemon ; stir it well, 
 to prevent its curdling. This sauce is excellent also for 
 carp. 
 
SAUCKS. 
 
 363 
 
 Sauce for a Hash. 
 
 Make a gravy from the broken bones, gristles, and other 
 trimmings laid aside when you cut down the meat, in which 
 boil two onions, a faggot of parsley, or a little of the seed, a 
 head of celery, or a little seed, a few sprigs of herbs, and a 
 tea-spoonful of black and Jamaica pepper-corns. Thicken 
 this gravy with browned flour, and season with any thing con¬ 
 venient and economical that can be spared ; for hash, though 
 it may be good and savoury, is understood to be a frugal dish. 
 Pickle liquor, whether of onions, mushrooms, oysters, or 
 walnuts, will answer very well; so will a little catsup, or 
 shalot vinegar; or a little currie powder will cheaply give that 
 favourite flavour to the hash. A few chopped pickled wal¬ 
 nuts, nasturtiums, or gherkins are added by some cooks, but 
 are not generally approved. 
 
 Sauce for a Broil. 
 
 Thicken some good brown gravy with butter and browneu 
 flour to the consistence of a batter. Add to it a spoonful of 
 walnut catsup, the juice of a lemon, a tea-spoonful of made 
 mustard, and a dozen chopped capers, a tea-spoonful of the 
 essence of anchovies, a bit of shalot finely minced, a few 
 grains of cayenne, and a tea-spoonful of grated rind of lemon. 
 Simmer these ingredients for a few minutes, and pouring a 
 little over the grill, serve the rest in a tureen. This com¬ 
 pound piquante sauce will suit several kinds of white fish, 
 such as skate, holibut, &c. to those who like a highly stimu¬ 
 lating relish. It is appropriate to devils of all orders. 
 
 Sage and Onion Sauce. 
 
 Chop together a couple of onions, and eight sprigs of sage; 
 stew them in water with salt, and in a few minutes add bread 
 crumbs. Drain off a little of the water when they are tender, 
 and stir in melted butter, pepper, and, if for goose stuffing, a 
 little flour. 
 
 Shalot Sauce. 
 
 Chop of shalot what will fill a table spoon; give this a scald 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 S64. 
 
 with hot water in a saucepan, drain and add half a pint of 
 good gravy, or melted butter, pepper, and salt, and when done 
 a large spoonful of vinegar. T.he shalots may be stewed in 
 mutton broth, with a little butter rolled in flour, and some 
 vinegar, and served with boiled mutton. Shalot sauce, may 
 be made as directed in the receipt for parsley and butter, by 
 merely stirring a little shalot vinegar, or shalot wine into 
 melted butter, with salt; and for roast meat or poultry this is 
 more elegant than sauce of the chopped root. Carrier sauce 
 for mutton is made by boiling chopped shalots in gravy sharp¬ 
 ened with vinegar and seasoned with pepper and salt. Shalot 
 enters largely into the composition of most of the high flavour¬ 
 ed compound sauces. 
 
 Garlic Sauce. 
 
 Make this with a spoonful of garlic vinegar stirred into 
 half a pint of melted butter ; or chop, and pound in a mortar, 
 two cloves of garlic with a bit of butter, or a very little oil, 
 and rubbing the paste through a sieve, simmer it in the 
 butter. 
 
 Mushroom Sauce. 
 
 Wa..h and pick a pint of young mushrooms, and rub them 
 with salt, to take off the tender skin. Pour them into a 
 saucepan with a little salt, some nutmeg, a blade of mace, a 
 pint of cream, and a good piece of butter rubbed in flour. 
 Boil them up, and stir them till done; then pour it round the 
 chickens, &c. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled ones done 
 white, with a little mushroom-powder with the cream, &c. 
 
 Another way.—Wash and pick a large breakfast cupful of 
 small button mushrooms; take off the leathery skin, and stew 
 them in veal gravy, with pepper, cayenne, mace, nutmeg, salt, 
 and a piece of butter rolled in a good deal of flour or arrow 
 root to thicken, as the abounding gravy of the mushrooms 
 makes them take a good deal of thickening. Stew till tender, 
 stirring them now and then, and pour the sauce over the 
 fowls. Those who like a high relish of mushroom may 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 365 
 
 have a spoonful of mushroom gravy drawn by salting a few for 
 a night, or a little mushroom powder. 
 
 Observations. —The mushrooms may be stewed in thin 
 cream, and seasoned and thickened as above. Mushrooms 
 pickled white may supply the place of the fresh for this sauce. 
 Bay them in milk for a little, and add some catsup to the 
 sauce. 
 
 Another way.—Peel a pottle of mushrooms, put them in 
 water with the juice of one lemon to keep them white while 
 paring. Strain them, and put them in a stew-pan with a 
 quarter of a pound of butter, a tea-spoonful of salt and pepper 
 together, and the squeeze of half a lemon. When sufficiently 
 stewed, which will be in half an hour, put in a thickening of 
 one table-spoonful of flour with half a pint of cream, and let 
 it boil together five minutes. Or, instead of the cream, add 
 bechamel sauce, or brown sauce, a half pint. 
 
 Truffle Sauce. 
 
 Pare eighteen truffles and slice them, pass them off in two 
 ounces of butter, till tender; add half a pint of white sauce, 
 or brown; season with salt, and the squeeze of half a lemon. 
 
 Asparagus Sauce. 
 
 Blanch half a pint of asparagus tops or pease till tender 
 strain and put half a pint of white sauce; season with salt and 
 a little sugar. 
 
 Green Peas Sauce. 
 
 One pint of green peas, one ounce of butter, two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of gravy, one tea-spoonful of sugar, two sprigs of 
 mint, boil them till tender, and add half a pint of white sauce; 
 and season with salt, or thicken with a spoonful of thickening. 
 
 Cauliflower Sauce. 
 
 One small cauliflower boiled tender, put to half a pint of 
 white sauce, or melted butter. 
 
 Potatoe Sauce. 
 
 Two pounds of new potatoes, or if they cannot be procured 
 
36 (i 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 old ones will do, cut with a round cutter. Put in half a 
 nound of butter, constantly shaking over the fire till done ; add 
 half a pint of white sauce, or melted butter. 
 
 Turnip Sauce. 
 
 Cut out six turnips with cutters, boil them tender in broth; 
 strain and add half a pint of white sauce, or melted butter; 
 season with salt and a little sugar. 
 
 Tarragon or Chervil Sauce. 
 
 Chop a handful of the green leaves of tarragon or chervil, 
 pass them off in butter; when done add half a pint of white 
 sauce, and season. 
 
 Garlic Sauce. 
 
 Chop six heads of garlic; pass it off in two ounces of but¬ 
 ter; add half a pint of brown sauce; season with salt and 
 pepper. 
 
 Horseradish Sauce , IVhite. 
 
 Grate a teacup-ful of horseradish; cover it till wanted; put 
 the crumb of two French rolls in a quarter of a pint of milk, 
 and two ounces of butter; boil them to a pulp; add the 
 horseradish, and season with salt. 
 
 Horseradish Sauce , Brown. 
 
 To a teacup-ful of horseradish grated add half a pint of 
 brown sauce, and two table-spoonful's of vinegar; season with 
 salt and a little sugar. 
 
 Caper Sauce. 
 
 Chop half a teacup-ful of capers, put them in half a pint 
 of white sauce, or melted butter, season with salt and pepper. 
 
 If for a made dish, the capers must be put in whole. 
 
 Dutch Sauce. 
 
 Scrape a teacup-ful of horseradish, boil it in a quarter of a 
 pint of water or broth, pass off, in three ounces of butter, 
 with three table-spoonfuls of flour; add the liquor of the 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 sm 
 
 horseradish by degrees, stir it to a smooth paste, add a quarter 
 of a pint of cream and the yelks of six eggs beat together, 
 with three spoonfuls of elder vinegar; season with salt. 
 
 Sauce Poivrade. 
 
 Chop ten shalots, boil them in a quarter of a pint of brown 
 gravy, add two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; season with salt, 
 serve all together without straining - . 
 
 Mustard Sauce. 
 
 Mix two table-spoonfuls of ready made mustard, with a 
 quarter of a pint of white sauce, or melted butter. 
 
 N. B* This sauce is used with fresh boiled lobsters, her¬ 
 rings, and tripe. 
 
 Sauce Piquante. 
 
 Pass off, a table-spoonful of chopped onion, parsley, and 
 mushroom together; add a quarter of a pint of brown sauce, 
 and two table-spoonfuls of vinegar; season it with salt. 
 
 Sauce Flamande. 
 
 Pass off, one clove of garlic, a tea-spoonful of parsley 
 chopped, a quarter of lemon-peel grated, half a tea-spoonful 
 of cloves and mace pounded ; add a quarter of a pint of brown 
 sauce, boil and strain through a tammy; season with salt, and 
 add the juice of half a lemon. 
 
 Relishing Sauce for Cold Meat. 
 
 Grate a teacup-ful of horseradish; put a spoonful of sugar, 
 and as much vinegar as will cover it, with a little salt and a 
 spoonful of made mustard. 
 
 Aspic Sauce for cold Salads. 
 
 Rub three boiled yelks of eggs in a mortar, put one ounce 
 of salt, a quarter of a pint of oil by degrees, till it becomes 
 thick, then add one spoonful of anchovy essence, and a quarter 
 of a jy.nt of tarragon vinegar. 
 
 This sauce is used for Italian, lobster, or cold salads. 
 
3S3 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 While harricoed Beans Sauce. 
 
 Soak a pint of white beam in water for a few hours: let 
 them boil gently till quite tender, without breaking; strain 
 the water off, and add to the beans two ounces of butter, two 
 chopped shalots, and one pint of either white or brown sauce; 
 season with salt and pepper. They are in general served with 
 roast mutton. 
 
 Spanish Sauce f Sauce Espagnol.J 
 
 Boil one dozen button onions, also two dozen of chesnuts 
 tender, and peel them; add a sweetbread, broiled and cut in 
 pieces, with two dozen forcemeat balls: add twelve mush¬ 
 rooms, six truffles cut in slices, one pint of brown sauce, two 
 spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar; boil all together, and season 
 with salt and pepper. 
 
 Ragout Sauce. 
 
 Blanch six fat livers, twenty inside eggs, and twelve combs 
 of fowls, and one dozen of forcemeat balls ; boil them all ten¬ 
 der with twelve mushrooms, four truffles, and two sweetbreads ; 
 put them into a pint and a half of brown sauce; season with 
 salt and pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. 
 
 The inside eggs of a hen may be procured at the poulterers 
 at all times. 
 
 Mint Sauce. 
 
 Wash a small quantity of young mint. Pick off the 
 leaves and mince them very fine, and mix them in the sauce¬ 
 boat, with grated sugar and good vinegar to taste. 
 
 Caper Sauce. 
 
 Take two table-spoonfuls of capers and a little vinegar. 
 Mince the one half, and stir the whole of them into half a 
 pint of melted butter, or of strong thickened gravy. To 
 prevent the butter from oiling stir the sauce for some time. 
 When wanted very poignant, lemon juice may be added to 
 this simple and tasteful sauce, or it may be flavoured with the 
 tarragon or burnet instead of plain vinegar. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 369 
 
 Mock Caper Saute 
 
 May be made of gherkins or nasturtiums cut in bits, or 
 parsley boiled to a bad colour, with lemon juice and melted 
 butter; or French beans. 
 
 Apple Sauce. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice four or five juicy baking apples, and 
 put them into a saucepan with a very little water to keep them 
 from burning, and a bit of lemon-peel. Let them stew very 
 slowly, taking care they do not burn, and when quite solt 
 pour off the moisture, (or rather continue the water so exactly 
 that none should remain,) and beat them up with pounded 
 sugar to taste, and a small bit of butter. 
 
 Gooseberry Sauce. 
 
 Clip away the tops and tails of a breakfast cupful of small 
 green gooseberries. Scald, drain, and stir them into melted 
 butter, with a little sorrel juice or vinegar. A little ginger 
 may be added, or the scalded gooseberries may be served 
 mashed, with sugar and seasonings. 
 
 i 
 
 Relishing Sauce for Fish or Cold Meat. 
 
 Pound a large spoonful of scraped horseradish, four shalots, 
 a clove of garlic, a drachm of mustard, and one of celery seed, 
 with salt and a high relish of cayenne, Jamaica and bhick pep¬ 
 per. When well pounded mix with these ingredients half a 
 pint of cucumber vinegar, a quarter of a pint of shalot, and the 
 same quantity of horseradish vinegar. Let these infuse in a 
 close stopped jar by the fire for a few days, and strain and 
 bottle in small vials for use. 
 
 Hunter's Sauce. 
 
 Make a quarter of a pint, or rather more, of savoury brown 
 gravy or melted butter very hot. Thicken it with a little 
 browned flour, and put to it a large glass of claret or port 
 wine, a large tea-spoonful of made mustard, a little salt, pep¬ 
 per, and cayenne. Simmer 't a few minutes, and serve it 
 very hot. 
 
370 
 
 COMPOUND COOKEKY. 
 
 Observations. —The wine may be supplied by mushroom, 
 or walnut pickle occassionally, and a little chopped green sago 
 may be added. Hard yelks of eggs rubbed smooth make t 
 good variety of the above. 
 
 The Marquis’s Sauce for Wild Fowls. 
 
 A glass of claret, a spoonful of catsup, the same of lemon 
 juice, a minced shalot, a few thin slices of lemon peel, four 
 grains of the best cayenne pepper, two blades of mace pound¬ 
 ed, and a large spoonful of the essence sold at the shops 
 under the name of Russian essence or Sauce a-la-Fusse. 
 Simmer these ingredients for a few minutes, and then strain 
 them to the gravy which comes from the wild fowl in roasting. 
 Place the fowl on a dish heated by a lamp, arid cut it up, so 
 that the gravy as it flows out may simmer with the sauce. 
 
 Observations .—The above preparation is very much ad¬ 
 mired. The gravy of wild fowl is often scanty, but butter, 
 or even meat gravy would hurt the wild flavour a little. Game 
 gravy may, however, be made by par-roasting and then stew¬ 
 ing a partridge or pigeon, by those who hesitate at no expense 
 : J he gratification of the palate. 
 
 Currie Sauce. 
 
 This sauce is plainly made by mixing currie powder with 
 melted butter. It is more generally relished in white onion 
 sauce; or if wanted of high flavour, with brown onion gravy 
 sauce. When liked more piquante, chili vinegar may be 
 added to the sauce. 
 
 Observations. —Imitations of the Indian currie powder are 
 frequently attempted, and succeed as far as possible, consvier- 
 ing that some of the seeds and spices are used green in com¬ 
 pounding the genuine powder, and here they are necessarily 
 
 all dried. 
 
C 371 J 
 
 VENISON SAUCES. 
 
 Wine Sauce. 
 
 A quarter of a pint of claret or port wine, the same quan¬ 
 tity of pi ain unflavoured mutton gravy, and a table-spoonful 
 of currant jelly; let it just boil up, and 6end it to table in a 
 sauce-boat. 
 
 Sharp Sauce for Venison. 
 
 Put into a silver, or very clean and well-tinned saucepan, 
 half a pint of the best white wine vinegar, and a quarter of a 
 pound of loaf-sugar pounded; set it over the fire, and let it 
 simmer gently; skim it carefully, pour it through a tammis or 
 fine sieve, and send it up in a basin. 
 
 Some people like this better than the sweet wine sauces. 
 
 Sweet Sauce for Venison or Hare. 
 
 Put some currant jelly into a stew-pan ; when it is melted, 
 pour it into a sauce-boat. Many send it to table without 
 melting. 
 
 This is a more salubrious relish than either spice or salt, 
 and when the palate protests against animal food unless its 
 flavour be masked, currant jelly is a good accompaniment to 
 roasted or hashed meats. 
 
 Old Sauce for Venison. 
 
 An old favourite sauce for venison is still occasionally made 
 in the following manner: Simmer in a pint of red wine, half 
 a pound of powdered sugar, and a stick of cinnamon, till the 
 liquor becomes tolerably thick, but without boiling; then cut 
 some bread into dice, soften it in water, put it into the sauce, 
 take out the cinnamon, and boil the rest up together. Some¬ 
 times, the bread is at first boiled with the wine and the spice 
 till quite smooth, and the sugar only introduced on taking out 
 the cinnamon; when it is boiled up, and beaten into what is 
 called the old pap sauce for venison. 
 
372 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 German Horseradish Sauce. 
 
 Take a large stick of horseradish, quite fresh out of the 
 ground; and, after washing and scraping it clean, and cutting 
 awav the ends with all impurities, grate it fine and smooth, on 
 a trencher, by means of a large and sharp round grater; then 
 putting it into a sauce-boat or tureen with a cover, add two 
 lumps of sugar, three table-spoonfuls of boiling broth, or even 
 water, two spoonfuls of the best vinegar, and a little salt. Mix 
 them well together, till the sugar be entirely dissolved and 
 completely incorporated. This sauce, though immediately fit 
 to eat, will remain good two or three weeks, provided it be 
 kept closely covered. 
 
 Benton Sauce. 
 
 Grate, or scrape very fine, some horseradish, a little made 
 mustard, some pounded white sugar, and four large spoonfuls 
 of vinegar. Serve in a saucer. 
 
 Liver Sauce. 
 
 Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded parsley, and 
 hard eggs : salt, and mix them with butter; boil them up, 
 and pour over the fowls. 
 
 Another way.—Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and 
 do it as directed for lemon-sauce, with a very little pepper an 
 salt, and some parsley. 
 
 White Sauce for Fricassees. 
 
 In a little sweet white broth, stew a bit of lemon-peel, 
 some sliced onion, some white pepper-corns, a little pounded 
 mace or nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet herbs, until the flavour 
 be good; then strain it, and add a little good cream, a piece of 
 butter, and a little flour; salt to your taste. A squeeze of 
 lemon may be added after the sauce is taken off the fire, 
 shaking it well. Yelk of egg is often used in fricassee, but 
 cream is better, as the egg is apt to curdle. 
 
 Sauce for Wild Fowl. 
 
 Simmer a teacup-ful of port wine, the same quantity of 
 good meat gravy, a little shalot, a little pepper, salt, a grate of 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 373 
 
 nutmeg, and a bit of mace, for ten minutes; put in a bit of 
 butter, and flour, give it all one boil, and pour it through the 
 birds. By some persons the following is preferred : serve a 
 rich gravy in the dish : cut the breast into slices, but don’t 
 take them off; cut a lemon, and put pepper and salt on it; 
 then squeeze it on the breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy 
 over before you help. 
 
 Sauce for Poultry in general . 
 
 Boil some veal-gravy, pepper, salt, the juice of a Seville 
 orange and a lemon, and a quarter as much of port wine as of 
 gravy; a: d pour it into the dish, or a boat. 
 
 Admiral's Sauce. 
 
 Chop an anchovy, a dozen capers, and four or five sbalots 
 or rocamboes. Simmer them in melted butter till the an¬ 
 chovy dissolves. Season with pepper and salt; and when 
 ready, add the juice of a lemon, and grated nutmeg. 
 
 Chevreuil Sauce. 
 
 Put a small piece of butter into a stew-pan, with some 
 chopped parsley, shalots, thyme, mushrooms, and a few spoon¬ 
 fuls of gravy or brown stock ; after slowly simmering them 
 for almost a quarter of an hour, add a sufficient quantity of 
 flour to imbibe all the butter, and continue stirring it a few 
 minutes longer over the fire. Then put to it a pint of stock ; 
 stir it well, till it has boiled a little together; and, taking it 
 off the fire, squeeze in some lemon juice, and add a tea-spoon¬ 
 ful of sifted loaf sugar and a small quantity of pepper anti salt, 
 to give it a more piquante flavour. 
 
 Egg Sauce. 
 
 Boil a couple of eggs for a quarter of an hour. 
 Dip them in cold water, and roll them quickly under your 
 hand to make the shell come easily off. Cut the yelks by 
 themselves into little half-inch cubes, and cut the white of one 
 
874 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY 
 
 css in the same manner. Stir first the white and then the 
 
 DO 
 
 yelk into thinnish melted butter in the tureen. 
 
 Another way.—Boil the eggs hard, and cut them into 
 small pieces, then put them to melted butter. 
 
 Bread Sauce. 
 
 Boil a large onion, cut into four, with some black peppers 
 and milk, till the onion is quite a pap. Pour the milk strained 
 on grated white stale bread, and cover it. In an hour put it 
 into a saucepan, with a good piece of butter mixed with a 
 little flour; boil the whole up together, and serve. 
 
 Another way.—Put grated crumbs into a small saucepan, 
 and pour a little of the liquor, in which mutton, veal, or fowL 
 was boiled, over them. When it has soaked, simmer with a 
 sliced onion, white peppercorns, salt, and mace. Take out 
 the onion and peppercorns, and add melted butter or cream. 
 
 Rice Sauce. 
 
 Stew two ounces of rice in milk, with an onion, white pep¬ 
 per corns, and a little salt. Take out the pepper corns and 
 onions, and rub through a colander. Heat this up with more 
 milk or cream, and flavour it to taste. 
 
 SWEET SAUCES. 
 
 Pudding Sauce. 
 
 Put a glass of sherry, half a one of brandy, and two tea¬ 
 spoonfuls of pounded lump sugar; and, if agreeable, a little 
 grated lemon-peel, into a quarter of a pint of thick melted 
 butter, with some grated nutmeg on the top. 
 
 Custard Sauce for Rice, Bread, Sago, or Custard Puddings, 
 
 or Fruit Pies. 
 
 Stir a pint of sweet cream in a very clean saucepan till it 
 
FISH SAUCES. 
 
 375 
 
 comes to boil. Mix the beat yelks of two eggs with a drop 
 of cold cream, and some fine pounded sugar put to it; pour 
 backwards and forwards from the saucepan to a basin to pre¬ 
 vent curdling, and let it just come to the eve of boiling, con¬ 
 stantly stirring it. Serve the sauce in a china basin, and 
 grate a little nutmeg on the top of it. 
 
 Sauce for a Plum or Marrow Pudding. 
 
 A glass of white wine, half a glass of brandy or old rum, 
 or rum shrub, pounded sugar to taste, the grate of a lemon, 
 and a little cinnamon, stirred into a little thickened melted 
 butter. Sprinkle a little cinnamon on the top. 
 
 FISH SAUCES. 
 
 Lobster Sauce. 
 
 For sauce you must have a hen lobster, fresh, (alive if 
 possible,) and full of spawn. When boiled, pound the spawn 
 and coral with a bit of butter, or a very little oil. Rub this 
 through a sieve into a sufficient quantity of melted butter, and 
 mix it smooth. Cut the meat of the tail, &c. into small dice, 
 and put them to the sauce, which may be heated up but not 
 boiled. 
 
 Another way.—Pick the spawn out of the inside of a hen 
 lobster, pound it with two ounces of butter, and rub it through 
 a sieve, cut the lobster in small pieces, and add all together, 
 to half a pint of melted butter, one spoonful of anchovy es¬ 
 sence, with a squeeze of a lemon: season with cayenne 
 pepper. 
 
 N. B. The outward spawn of a lobster is not to be used 
 if it can be avoided, as it is in general very rank. 
 
 Another way.—Pick and cut the lobster small; chop the 
 inside spawn; add to it half a pint of white sauce, or melted 
 outter; season with a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, lemon 
 juice, and cayenne pepper. 
 
 * 
 
S7G 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 Take half a pint of shrimps, picked; put them in half a 
 pint of melted butter, with a tea-spoonful of anchovy essence, 
 a little cayenne, and the juice ol half a lemon. 
 
 Another way.—Pick a pint of shrimps clean, wash, and 
 put them into half a pint of melted butter. Some persons 
 stew the heads and shells, with mace, fifteen minutes, and 
 strain off the liquor for the purpose of melting the butter with 
 >t, adding thereto a little lemon juice, cayenne, essence of 
 anchovy, or soy. But as these latter ingredients destroy the 
 flavour of the shrimps, they should be omitted. 
 
 Another way.—Pick them clean, wash them carefully, and 
 boil them in very thick melted butter for a minute. A 
 squeeze of lemon is the only addition we can recommend for 
 shrimps, though various pungent flavours are often added to 
 this simple sauce. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Open the oysters, when you are just ready to make the 
 sauce. Save their liquor; strain it, and put it to them, and 
 give them a scald in it, and a soft boil. Pour them into a 
 basin, and, after picking and bearding them one by one, re¬ 
 turn them into a stew-pan in which there must be in the pro¬ 
 portion of half a pint of very thick melted butter to two dozen 
 of oysters, or to eighteen large cut ones. Strain the liquor 
 over them, and letting them come to boil, set them by the 
 side of the fire that they may become tender, which quick 
 boiling would prevent. When ready stir in a little cream. 
 A squeeze of lemon juice is a simple and tasteful addition. 
 Some cooks add mace, nutmeg, anchovy, &c. when a piquante 
 sauce is wanted. 
 
 Another way.—Beard three dozen good-sized oysters; put 
 them in a stew-pan with the liquor, six ounces of butter, and 
 a table-spoonful of flour; let them just boil one minute all 
 together; add a teacup-ful of cream; season with pepper and 
 salt, and the squeeze of a lemon • and, if agreeable, a little 
 grated nutmeg may be added. 
 
FISH SAUCES. 
 
 377 
 
 Anchwy Sauce 
 
 Bone and pound four anchovies very smooth with a bit of 
 butter; stir this into thick melted butter, in the proportion of 
 three anchovies to the half pint. 
 
 This is a sauce which ought to be piquante. The cook 
 is therefore at liberty to make whatever additions she pleases; 
 cayenne, soy, essence of anchovy, lemon pickle, horseradish, 
 mustard, shalot, nasturtiums, and vinegars; in short the whole 
 circle of the pungent and sharp flavours may be pressed into 
 the service. When a compound or double relish sauce is to 
 ue made, we would recommend brown gravy sauce. 
 
 Another way. Melted butter seasoned with anchovy, a 
 squeeze of lemon, and cayenne to taste. 
 
 Cockle Sauce. 
 
 Boil two quarts of cockles without water; strain the liquor 
 and let it settle; pick the cockles out and wash them well; 
 take a quarter of a pound of butter, and a quarter of a pint of 
 the liquor of the cockles, mix both with a table-spoonful of 
 flour; boil all together five minutes; put the cockles in; sea¬ 
 son with pepper, salt, and a squeeze of lemon. 
 
 Crab Sauce. 
 
 Pick the meat out of a crab, take the inside part and pound 
 it with two ounces of butter, and rub it through a sieve; then 
 add the meat of the claws, cut small, to half a pint of melted 
 butter season with salt, pepper, and the squeeze of a lemon. 
 
 Mackeral Roe Sauce. 
 
 Boil two or three roes either soft or hard, the former is 
 preferred; take away the filaments that hang about them, 
 and bruise them with the yelk of an egg. Stir this into a 
 little thin parsley, or fennel and butter, and add a little vine¬ 
 gar, or walnut pickle, with pepper and salt. 
 
 Liver Sauce for Fish. 
 
 Boil the liver by itself; take away all fibres and black parts 
 that attach to it, and pound it in a mortar. Boil it an in 
 
 c 16 3c- 
 
378 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 thin melted butter with cayenne, and sharpen with lemon 
 juice, or lemon cut in dice. If a higher relish is wanted, add 
 soy, essence of anchovy, or catsup instead of lemon juice. 
 
 Fish Sauce without Butter. 
 
 Simmer very gently a quarter of a pint ol vinegar and half 
 pint of water (which must not be hard,) with an onion, half 
 a handful of horseradish, and the following spices lightly 
 bruised t four cloves, two blades of mace, and half a tea¬ 
 spoonful of black pepper. When the onion is quite tender, 
 chop it small with two anchovies, and set the whole on the 
 fire to boil for a few minutes, with a spoonful of catsup. In 
 the mean time, have ready and well beaten, the yelks ot three 
 fresh eggs; strain them, mix the liquor by degrees with them, 
 and when well mixed, set the saucepan over a gentle fire, 
 keeping a basin in one hand, into which toss the sauce to and 
 fro, and shake the saucepan over the fire, that the eggs may 
 not curdle. Don’t boil them, only let the sauce be hot 
 enough to give it the thickness of melted butter. 
 
 o O 
 
 Fish Sauce a-la■ Craster. 
 
 Thicken a quarter of a pound of butter with flour, and 
 brown it; then put to it a pound of the best anchovies cut 
 small, six blades of pounded mace, ten cloves, forty berries of 
 black pepper, and all-spice, a few small onions, a faggot of 
 sweet herbs (namely, savoury, thyme, basil, and knotted mar¬ 
 joram,) and a little parsley and sliced horseradish; on these 
 pour half a pint of the best sherry, and a pint and a half of 
 strong gravy. Simmer all gently for twenty minutes, then 
 strain it through a sieve, and bottle it for use; the way of 
 using it is, to boil some of it in the butter while melting. 
 
 Sauce for Fish Pies where Cream is not used. 
 
 Take equal quantities of white wine (not sweet,) vinegar, 
 oyster-liquor, and mushroom catsup; boil them up with an 
 anchovy; strain; and pour it through a funnel into the pie 
 after it is baked. 
 
 Another way.—Chop an anchovy small, and boil it up with 
 three spoonfuls of gravy, a quarter of a pint ot cream, aud a 
 bit of butter and Hour 
 
STUFFINGS, SEASONINGS, &C. 
 
 379 
 
 To make a good Sauce proper for all Sorts of Fish. 
 
 (From the MS. of a celebrated gastronomic professor.) 
 
 Take some good gravy, some claret, and a little white 
 wine; a little nutmeg and salt, two or three anchovies, and a 
 little catsup: set it over the fire; when the anchovies are dis¬ 
 solved, put in a good deal of butter, according to the quantity 
 of sauce, and draw it up thick; then put in some horseradish 
 scraped, one lobster cut in bits, and some oysters, mushrooms, 
 shrimps, and crayfish, such of them as are at hand. So pour 
 it all over the fish and lay round the dish ome slices of lemon 
 and barberries. 
 
 #####/ ###### 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 STUFFINGS, SEASONINGS, FORCEMEAT, &c. 
 
 General Directions . 
 
 All stuffings should be allowed room to swell, especially 
 those in which dry crumbs of bread enter into the composition, 
 as they are sure to expand more or less in the dressing, and 
 if pressed too close are apt to eat heavy. 
 
 The herbs and other flavouring ingredients should be so 
 apportioned as that all may be discerned, while none unplea¬ 
 santly predominate. 
 
 The proportion of eggs should be particularly attended to: 
 if there is not a sufficient quantity to bind the other ingredients, 
 they will crumble and separate; if too much, the whole sub¬ 
 stance will be hard and heavy. 
 
 Herbs must be washed very clean, carefully freed from 
 every bit of stalk, and very finely shred. 
 
S80 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 If some of the ingredients require a much longer time than 
 others, this may be provided against by previously scalding 
 them; in like manner if the article to be stuffed or seasoned 
 requires a very short time to roast, it may be well to scald the 
 most solid articles of the seasoning; as for example, onions 
 for stuffing very young ducks, or thin griskin; otherwise they 
 will be likely to eat crisp, and taste unpleasantly strong; but 
 this process must not be carried on too far, or the composition 
 will be rendered insipid. 
 
 If dried herbs are to be used, they must be kept very free 
 from dust and finely pulverized. 
 
 The different ingredients in forcemeat must be pounded'' 
 till perfectly smooth and thoroughly incorporated. 
 
 Seasoning for Duck , Goose , or Roast Pork. 
 
 The ingredients are always sage and onions with pepper 
 and salt; some slight variations according to taste. Some per¬ 
 sons choose, and others decline, the addition of bread crumbs, 
 and a piece of fresh butter; some use sage without onions, 
 others prefer chives as being more mild; some like the onions 
 scalded to draw out the strength of flavour, others will even 
 add a clove or two of garlic to render it more poignant; some 
 prefer the sage green, others like it dried and pulverized. In 
 all these respects no precise directions can be given, the cook 
 must observe, and comply with, the taste of her employers. 
 The following are examples of seasoning, sometimes adopted 
 which vary more or less from the original simple composition 
 of mere sage and onion. 
 
 Two parts of chopped onion, two parts bread crumbs, 
 three parts butter, one part pounded sage, pepper, and salt; 
 mix all together. 
 
 Seasoning for a Goose. 
 
 Four well-sized onions, about half their w T eight of sage 
 undried; divide the liver; parboil slightly, and chop these 
 very fine: add a bit of butter, yelk of egg, and the crumb 
 of a penny loaf, or an equal quantity of mashed potatoes, and 
 season rather highly wkh pepper and salt. 
 
STUFFINGS, SEASONINGS, &C. 
 
 381 
 
 Seasoning for a Sucking Pig. 
 
 Take a handful of mild sage, and a couple of young onions 
 parboiled; chop these very fine, add a cupful of grated bread 
 crumbs, two ounces of good butter, and a high relish of pep¬ 
 per and salt. Work this up with yelk of egg, and fill the 
 belly. 
 
 Seasoning with Chesnuts. 
 
 Mince the liver; cut an onion in small pieces, and pass it 
 in raspt lard; prepare fifty chesnuts (as is directed for chesnut 
 soup,) let them simmer in the sauce; season with salt, pepper, 
 and fine spices; when the chesnuts are ready, turn in the 
 rump of the goose, and sew it up. 
 
 Seasoning for a Leg or Shoulder of Veal, an Ox, or Calf's 
 
 Heart, Sfc. 
 
 To half a pound of crumbs of bread, grated as finely as 
 possible,* put a quarter of a pound of suet, either beef, or 
 lamb, or marrow shred very fine, a handful of parsley, about a 
 quarter as much thyme, five or six sprigs of marjoram and the 
 same of vervain, all chopped very fine. Some people add a 
 few leaves of winter savoury ; but others dislike the taste, 
 which is very powerful; a little of the very thin rind of lemon 
 may be added if approved, though the vervain in a great mea¬ 
 sure supplies the place of it; and a squeeze of lemon juice is 
 an improvement; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; mix 
 all the ingredients well with two eggs finely beaten ; fix it in 
 securely with the caul of the veal, or with buttered paper. 
 This is a good plain family stuffing, and answers for many 
 purposes. The same may be used for fowl, rabbit, or tuikey, 
 with the addition of the_liver, or part of it, scalded and shred 
 fine. 
 
 Stuffing for a Turkey. 
 
 Take a breakfast cupful of stale bread finely grated, two 
 
 * For this purpose stale bread answers much better than new, and the 
 crumb of a large loaf than of a small one, though the directions generally 
 are for the crunrb of a penny or two-p.*nny loaf. 
 
S82 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 ounces of minced beef suet, or marrow, a little parsley pam 
 boiled and finely shred, a tea-spoonful of lemon-peel grated, a 
 few sprigs of lemon thyme, a little nutmeg, pepper, and salt. 
 Mix the whole well in a mortar with a couple of eggs. Do 
 not stuff too full; and with another egg work up what re¬ 
 mains into balls to be fried and served with the turkey. To 
 this stuffing, parboiled sausage meat may be added, or grated 
 ham, or oysters chopped. 
 
 Stuffing for a Turkey with Chesnuts. 
 
 Roast a quarter of a hundred and peel them, leave out a 
 third part, pound the rest in a mortar, with the liver parboiled, 
 a quarter of a pound of ham well grated or pounded, a little 
 basil and parsley; mace, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and a good 
 piece of butter; stuff the bird, and tie him at neck and vent. 
 When roasted, serve for sauce the remaining chesnuts, chop¬ 
 ped, and stirred in strong thickened gravy, with a glass of 
 Sherry or Madeira. Garnish with orange, or with sausage, 
 or forcemeat balls fried. 
 
 Stuffing fur a boiled Turkey. 
 
 The seasoning may be’ prepared as directed for veal, only 
 with the addition of a considerable quantity of grated lemon 
 peel, lemon juice, and a dozen or more oysters: or it may be 
 made of equal parts of the above, and of sausage meat, well 
 mixed together. 
 
 Another way.—Mince one quarter of a pound of beef suet, 
 or rather marrow, the same quantity of bread crumbs, two 
 drachms of parsley leaves, one drachm and a half of sweet 
 marjoram, or lemon thyme, as much of grated lemon peel, an 
 onion or shalot chopped very fine, and a little grated nutmeg, 
 pepper, and salt; pound these thoroughly together, with the 
 yelks and whites of two eggs, and force the composition into 
 the veal with a skewer, or fasten it with a thread. Some of 
 it should be made Into balls, floured, and then boiled or fried; 
 after which, send them up as garnish, or in a side dish. For 
 a turkey, the quantity should be nearly double. In this case, 
 you may add an ounce of dressed ham, or equal parts of tht 
 stuffing and pork sausage meat pounded together. 
 
STUFFINGS, SEASONINGS, &C. f?83 
 
 Another way.—To the preceding composition, add the 
 soft part of twelve oysters, anchovy, or a little grated ham or 
 tongue. Pork sausage meat is sometimes used to stuff 
 turkeys and fowls, or it may be fried, and sent up as garnish. 
 
 Another way.—Two pounds of suet, chopped fine; one 
 pound of bread crumbs, a teacup-ful of chopped parsley, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of thyme, and ditto of marjoram in powder; a table¬ 
 spoonful of chopped shalot, half a nutmeg, and half a lemon- 
 peel grated; half an ounce of pepper, and ditto of salt; mixed 
 up with five whole eggs. 
 
 This stuffing is used for veal, poultry, and game. The 
 shalot may be left out if disliked. 
 
 For rabbits, poultry, pigeons, or birds, a very simple and 
 pleasant stuffing may be made by merely scalding and shred¬ 
 ding the liver, and adding thereto four times its quantity of 
 crumbs of bread, a lump of butter, a little cold gravy of roast 
 meat if you have it; season the mass with salt, pepper, and 
 nutmeg, and secure it in the belly or crop. 
 
 A seasoning for a Hare—a choice Itectpe. 
 
 Take the liver, one apple, and a bit of onion, chop it 
 very small, season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, some lemon 
 rind, and thyme, shred very small; add to it a quarter of a 
 pound of butter and what grated bread will temper it to a 
 paste, then put it into the belly of the hare and sew it up 
 close. When the hare is roasted, have ready three quarters 
 of a pound of butter melted with some good gravy, a little 
 claret, and two anchovies; take out the pudding and dissolve 
 
 in the sauce, then pour it all over the hare, and garnish 
 the dish with barberries. 
 
 Another way.—Take the grated crumbs of a penny loaf, a 
 quarter of a pound of beef suet, or three ounces of marrow, a 
 small quantity of parsley and eschalot, a boned anchovy, a 
 tea-spoonful of grated lemon peel, and the same quantity of 
 nutmeg; salt^ and pepper to taste, a little cayenne, and 
 ihe liver parboiled and chopped, if in a sound state. Mix 
 the ingredients with the yelk of an egg, and a very little 
 claret soaked in the crumbs. Put this in the belly, aud sevr 
 it closely up. 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY, 
 
 884 
 
 Another way.—Two ounces of beef suet chopped fine, three 
 ounces of bread crumbs, a drachm of parsley, half a drachm 
 of shalot, one drachm of marjoram, thyme, or winter savoury, 
 the same quantity of grated lemon peel, half a drachm of nut¬ 
 meg, and as much of pepper and salt; mix the whole with 
 the yelk and white of an egg, till it is thoroughly stiff', put it 
 into the hare, and sew it up. If the liver is sound, it may be 
 parboiled, minced fine, and added to these ingredients. 
 
 Stuffing fur Pike, Carp , or Haddock. 
 
 Beat yelks of eggs, a few oysters bearded and chopped, 
 and two boned anchovies, pounded biscuit, or bread grated, 
 minced parsley, and a bit of shalot or an onion, mace pounded, 
 black pepper, allspice, and salt. Mix these in the proper 
 proportions, and having beat a good piece of butter in a stew- 
 pan, stir them over the fire till of the consistence of a good 
 thick batter, adding more biscuit powder or flour if necessary. 
 Or a highly relishing forcemeat for the above may be made of 
 scraped ham or tongue, or bacon fried and cut in little bits, 
 with suet or marrow, shalot, cayenne, salt, a chopped anchovy, 
 bread crumbs, a little walnut or oyster liquor, with egg to 
 bind the composition. The meat of a lobster may be substi¬ 
 tuted for the ham or fried bacon. 
 
 Another way.—Take equal parts of fat bacon, beef suet, 
 and fresh butter, some parsley, thyme, and savoury; a little 
 onion, and a few leaves of scented marjoram shred fine, an 
 anchovy or two; a little salt and nutmeg, and some pepper. 
 Oysters will be an improvement, with or without anchovies; 
 add crumbs, and an egg to bind. 
 
 FORCEMEAT. 
 
 The following Articles are used to form the substance. 
 
 Fowl, veal, sweetbreads, udders, tongues, brawn,—parboiled 
 or roasted, and minced or pounded very fine. Cold ham 
 scraped or grated ; potted meat in general; fat bacon scraped ; 
 beef suet or marrow chopped very fine; crumbs of bread 
 grated ; yelks of hard boiled eggs ; oysters, anchovy, lobsters. 
 
FORCEMEATS. 
 
 885 
 
 Fci flavouring ingredients selection may be made from the 
 following, according as the case requires : salt, pepper, nutmeg, 
 cayenne; jamaica pepper, mace, or cloves, finely powdered; 
 curry powder; cinnamon occasionally, but not frequently; of 
 vegetables, thyme, marjoram, savoury, sage, tarragon, chervil, 
 basil, bay leaves, mushrooms, morels, and truffles; onions, 
 leeks, garlic, shalot, chives; parsley, spinach, mashed potatoes. 
 To bind the substance, the yelks and whites of eggs well and 
 separately beaten; for liquids, rich gravy, lemon juice, syrup 
 of lemon, essence of anchovy, wine, soy, catsup, and sometimes 
 flavoured vinegars. 
 
 Flour is occasionally used; but is in general better avoided. 
 
 Forcemeat is either fried or boiled in small balls about the 
 size of a large nutmeg ; or used to lard or stuff meat or poultry, 
 or baked in patties. 
 
 An excellent Forcemeat. 
 
 Take of veal or pork half a pound ; let it be free from skin, 
 and chop it very small; add nearly an equal weight of good 
 beef suet or marrow, chop them together till very fine and 
 well mixed, then beat the mass in a mortar till it becomes a 
 perfect paste, then season it with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated 
 lemon peel and thyme minced very small, work it up with one 
 or two eggs; it may be coloured green with spinach, and fried 
 or boiled according to the dish which it is designed to orna¬ 
 ment or flavour. 
 
 Veal Forcemeat. 
 
 Scrape a pound of veal and half a pound of fat bacon, 
 pound it fine in a mortar, add the crumb of a French roll, 
 mace and nutmeg one drachm each, a table-spoonful of chop¬ 
 ped onions, parsley, and mushroom, with pepper and salt; 
 mix all this together, with two whole eggs, and rub it through 
 a sieve. For occasional variety it may be rolled up in balls, 
 crumbed over twice., and fried in hot fat; serve fried parsley 
 with it 
 
 Another way.—Take of undressed lean veal, freed from 
 a 17 $ D 
 
88fi 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 skin aud sinews, two ounces, as much beef or veal suet, and 
 the same quantity of bread crumbs; chop fine two drachms of 
 parsley; of lemon peel, sweet herbs, and onion, each a 
 drachm; half a one of mace, or allspice beaten to fine powder; 
 and pound the whole in a mortar, adding thereto the yelk and 
 white of an egg; rub the whole well together, and season it 
 with pepper and salt. Its flavour may be heightened by the 
 addition of cold boiled pickled tongue, anchovy, shalot, and 
 cayenne pepper, or curry powder. 
 
 . 'Forcemeat , to force Fowls or Butcher's Meat. 
 
 Shred a little ham, or gammon, some cold veal, or fowl, 
 some beef-suet; a small quantity of onion, some parsley, very 
 little lemon peel, salt, nutmeg, or pounded mace, and either 
 white pepper or cayenne, and bread crumbs. 
 
 Pound it in a mortar, and bind it with one or two eggs 
 beaten and strained. For forcemeat patties, the mixture as 
 above. 
 
 For cold savoury Pies. 
 
 The same : only substituting fat, or bacon, for suet. The 
 livers, (if the pie be of rabbit or fowls,) mixed with fat and 
 lean of pork, instead of bacon, and seasoned as above, is 
 excellent. 
 
 Forcemeat for Turtle. 
 
 A pound of fine fresh suet, one ounce of ready-dressed 
 veal or chicken, chopped fine, crumbs of bread, a little shalot 
 or onion, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, penny-royal, 
 parsley, and lemon-thyme finely shred; beat as many fresh 
 e ggs, yelks and whites separately, as will make the above in¬ 
 gredients into a moist paste; roll into small balls, and boil 
 them in fresh lard, putting them in just as it boils up. When 
 of a light brown, take them out, and drain them before the 
 fire. If the suet be moist or stale, a great many more eggs 
 will be necessary. 
 
 Balls made this way are remarkably light: but being greasy, 
 some people prefer them with less suet and eggs. 
 
FORCEMEATS. 
 
 S87 
 
 Forcemeat for TurtleMeek Turtle , and other Made 
 
 Dishes. 
 
 Pound some veal In a mortal, rub it through a sieve, with 
 as much of the udder as there is of veal, or about one-third 
 the quantity of butter; put some bread crumbs moistened 
 with milk into a stew-pan, add thereto a little chopped parsley 
 and shalot, rub them together in a mortar till they form a 
 paste, pass it through a sieve, and when cold, pound and mix 
 the whole together with three yelks of eggs boiled hard; 
 season it with salt, pepper, and curry powder or cayenne, 
 adding thereto the yelks of two raw eggs; rub the whole well 
 and make it into balls. About ten minutes before your soup 
 is ready, put them in. 
 
 FRENCH WAYS OF PREPARING FORCEMEATS 
 
 Forced Meats. 
 
 Take the large fine muscle found in the fillet of veal which 
 can be taken out whole; skin and nerve it well; mince it 
 fine; beat it in the mortar till it becomes a paste; mince a 
 double quantity of beef suet, which must be dry and grainy, 
 for if it is greasy the forcemeat will neither look well nor be 
 good; pick off all the skin, and beat the whole together in a 
 mortar till they are perfectly mixed; put in salt, pepper, and 
 fine spicery; mix and beat all well together; take an entire 
 egg, which must be perfectly fresh, and mix it well in ; then 
 another, which must be also perfectly incorporated; after this 
 third, which will be sufficient for two pounds of forcemeat; 
 put in a spoonful of water; continue to add another every 
 time the water is incorporated: let this operation have time 
 that it may not be drowned; when sufficiently wetted as for a 
 paste, strew a table with flour, and make a little ball for trial, 
 and throw it into boiling soup.; when done enough, it will 
 yield under the finger; cut and taste if it be light and good; 
 if not firm enough, add another egg to give it more consist¬ 
 ence; if too firm, a little water; dust the table with flour, and 
 roll the forcemeat into any convenient size; poach, drain, and 
 keep it in readiness for such ragouts as require it. 
 
S88 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Forcemeat for Patties. 
 
 Take the quarter of a pound of a fillet of veal, and as much 
 beef, and a pound of beef-kidney fat, mince the veal and beef 
 together as small as possible; chop the suet: mix all well 
 together, and continue hashing it with a chopping knife, sea¬ 
 soning with salt, pepper, and fine spiceries: put in two eggs, 
 one after the other, and continue to beat them; when com¬ 
 pletely mixed add a little water, and continue to do so by 
 little and little, till it is brought to a proper consistence of 
 forced meat; finish by adding parsley and scallions minced 
 very fine; put it into a proper pot, so that it may be in readi¬ 
 ness for use as required. 
 
 Gratin. 
 
 Take half a pound of fillet of veal, cut it in small dice; put 
 it into a stewpan with a bit of butter, a little fine herbs minced, 
 such as mushrooms, parsley, scallions, with salt, fine spicery, 
 and pepper; put it upon the fire, and stir it with a wooden 
 spoon; let it cook a quarter of an hour, drain off the butter, 
 mince it fine, and put it into the mortar; take fifteen livers 
 of fowls or game, wash and parboil them; throw them into 
 cold water; drain and put them into the mortar with the other 
 ingredients; beat them all well together ; add as much panada, 
 as directed in the following article, as meat; have, ready cooked 
 and cold, some veal’s udder; be careful to take off the skin, 
 and put in as much of the udder as of each of the other in¬ 
 gredients, so that each may be a third; if there is no veal’s 
 udder, butter may be used; season with salt, and put in three 
 eggs, one after the other in beating, and also three yelks ; 
 when all is sufficiently beaten, take it out of the mortar with 
 a wooden spoon , make a trial by poaching; if not firm enough, 
 add some yelks of eggs; when come to perfection, whip the 
 whites of three eggs very well, and mix it in by degrees, 
 breaking them as little as ^possible; truffles may be added 
 well minced: put it by for use. 
 
 N. This gratin may be made entirely of raw livers, either 
 of poultry or game, without using any other sort of flesh meat, 
 keeping in view always the proportion of thirds, that is to say ; 
 one third of pai;ada, one of liver, and one of butter 
 
FORCEMEATS. 
 
 3811 
 
 Panada. 
 
 Take a sufficient quantity of crumb of bread, cut it in small 
 pieces, and put it into a stew-pan with reduced cream; let it 
 soak, and when it has absorbed the cream, put it on the fire, 
 and cook in such a manner, that it will have the consistence 
 of a firm paste, (or it may be made of stock;) incorporate into 
 it two yelks of eggs. 
 
 Cooked forced meat. 
 
 : Take the necessary quantity of fowl, or of veal; cut it in 
 small dice, and do it with fine herbs, as is directed for the 
 gratin: take and cut the meat, skin and nerve it, hash and 
 beat it; add as much panada as flesh, and the same of udder, 
 that is to say, that these three materials consist of equal parts, 
 and are all first beaten separately; put in as many eggs as is 
 sufficient, taking care it is not too liquid; season with salt, 
 fine spiceries, and fine herbs, cooked in butter; try a bit of it, 
 and when properly done, add the whites of some eggs well 
 beaten, with care, as directed in the gratin. 
 
 j Forced Meat of Fowl. 
 
 Take off all the flesh of two fowls; skin and nerve it care¬ 
 fully ; beat it in a mortar till it passes through a search, with 
 the back of a wooden spoon; take as much panada as of fowl, 
 and the same of butter, or udder of veal: having beaten them 
 all separately, mix and beat them all together, adding one 
 after another till all is well incorporated; in the same manner 
 put in three eggs and three yelks, one after another; season 
 with salt and nutmeg; beat them well in; gather it together 
 in the mortar, and throw a little bit into boiling water; taste 
 if good, and if not firm, put in one or two entire eggs; when 
 it has arrived at its point, whip well the whites of three eggs, 
 and add them by degrees. Ohserve the following directions: 
 —If to garnish a large dish, take a skimming spoon, and fill 
 it with the mass; then, with a knife dipt in warm water, 
 give it the same form as that in the spoon, which, will be like 
 an egg; detach it from the spoon, and put it into a buttered 
 saucepan, and in this manner make as many as is necessary: 
 
390 
 
 COMPOUND COOttERT. 
 
 put over them some very hot soup when you poach them, 
 taking care that they swim without touching one another: let 
 them boil softly, and turn them, when sufficiently done drain 
 upon a cloth, and dress them on their dish. If smaller balls 
 are required use two table-spoons to form them; and if for 
 still smaller dishes, use tea-spoons, or any other shape, to make 
 them in. 
 
 Fish Forcemeat. 
 
 Beat the flesh and soft parts of a middling lobster, half an 
 anchovy, a large piece of boiled celery, the yelk of a hard egg, 
 a little cayenne, mace, salt, and white pepper, with two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of bread crumbs, one ditto of oyster-liquor, two 
 ounces of butter warmed, and two eggs long beaten; make 
 into balls, and fry of a fine brown in butter. 
 
 Another way.—Take two ounces of turbot, soles, lobster, 
 shrimps, or oysters, free from skin; as much of fresh butter, 
 one ounce of bread crumbs, the yelks of two eggs boiled hard, 
 a little shalot, grated lemon-peel, and parsley minced fine , 
 pound the whole together, and when thoroughly mixed and 
 smooth, season with salt and cayenne, then break in the yelk 
 and white of one egg, rub it well together, and it will be ready 
 for use. Oysters parboiled and minced fine, with an anchovy, 
 may also be added. 
 
 Curry Balls. 
 
 Take the yelk of an egg boiled hard, a bit of fresh butter 
 about half the size of the egg, and as much bread crumbled 
 small as is sufficient; beat the whole in a mortar, and season 
 it with curry powder. Make the composition into balls as 
 before directed. 
 
 Egg Balls. 
 
 Pound six boiled yelks of eggs with two raw, and a tea- 
 spoonful of flour, and season with a little salt; make this 
 paste up in small balls, and boil them two minutes. 
 
 These are used for soups and other dishes either with 
 forcemeat balls or alone. 
 
SAL'S ACES. 
 
 391 
 
 Another way.—Boil four eggs ten minutes, and put them 
 -nto cold water; when quite cold, break the yelks into a mortar, 
 with the yelk of an egg raw, one tea-spoonful of flour, as much 
 chopped parsley, a very little salt, and some black pepper or 
 cayenne; rub the whole well together into one mass, then roll 
 it into small balls, and boil them for two minutes. 
 
 Veal Cake. 
 
 Boil six or eight eggs hard; cut the yelks in two, and lay 
 some of the pieces in the bottom of the pot; shake in a little 
 chopped parsley, some slices of veal and ham, then add eggs 
 again; shaking in after each some chopped parsley, with pep- 
 pei and salt, till the pot is full. Then put in water enough 
 to cover it, and lay on it about an ounce of butter; tie it over 
 with a double paper, and bake it about an hour. Then press 
 it close together with a spoon, and let it stand till cold. 
 
 It may be put into a small mould; and then it will turn 
 out beautifully for a supper or side dish. 
 
 Another Method , from an original MS. 
 
 Cut pait of a cold fillet of veal in small pieces, put it in 
 a mortar and pound it very fine; put to it one third of the fat 
 of a ham, season with salt, pepper, and fine spice, pour in half 
 a pint of clarified butter, and mix all well together. Then 
 put it in a buttered mould, and put the mould in an oven for 
 half an hour; when done set it to cool in the mould. When 
 wanted for use, set the mould in warm water for a few minutes, 
 when the cake will turn out. 
 
 Ham cake may be made in the same way. 
 
 SAUSAGES. 
 
 Epping Sausages 
 
 T&ke equal quantities of young tender pork and of beet- 
 suet. Mince them very finely, and season with salt, pepper, 
 
S92 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 grated nutmeg, a sprinkling of sage, and some thin rind of 
 bacon. Roll up with egg, and fry it. 
 
 Another way.—Chop very fine equal parts of fat and lean 
 pork, season with sage, pepper, salt, and half fill hog’s guts 
 that have been made extremely clean by washing, turning, 
 and scraping with salt and water, the water being changed 
 several times. These sausages are usually broiled, or basted 
 with good dripping and baked in an iron oven. 
 
 Another way.—Chop fat and lean pork together; season 
 it with sage, pepper, and salt, and you may add two or three 
 berries of allspice : half fill hog’s guts that have been soaked 
 and made extremely clean; or the meat may be kept in a very 
 small pan, closely covered; and so rolled and dusted with a 
 very little flour before it is fried. Serve on stewed red cab¬ 
 bage ; or mashed potatoes put in a form, brown with salamander, 
 and garnish with the above; they must be pricked with a fork 
 before they are dressed, or they will burst. 
 
 If kept in pots the sausage meat should be pressed down 
 very close and a little pepper and salt sprinkled over the top. 
 This mode is the most convenient for family use, and will 
 keep longer. Some people fry them in clarified butter. 
 
 Sausages are sometimes served in the following manner : — 
 Cut them in single links, and fry them in fresh butter; then 
 take a slice of bread, and fry it a good brown in the butter you 
 fried the sausages in, and lay it in the bottom of your dish ; 
 put the sausages on the toast, in four parts, and lay poached 
 eggs betwixt them ; pour a little good melted butter round them, 
 and serve them up. 
 
 Sausage Meat. 
 
 Take the fat and lean of the chine of pork, two parts lean, 
 one part fat; chop it fine, and to twelve pounds of sausage- 
 meat take three spoonfuls of allspice ground, a spoonful of 
 pounded sage, ditto of thyme, pepper, one ounce, and salt 
 three ounces; mix it all well together; fill the skins and hang 
 them in a dry place. 
 
 v. N. B.—The skins of the guts are to be turned on a stick, 
 and well scraped and washed in several waters, and kept in 
 salt and water two hours before filling. 
 
SAUSAGES. 
 
 80S 
 
 Veal Sausages. 
 
 Chop equal quantities of lean veal and fat bacon, a handful 
 of sage, a little salt and pepper, and a few anchovies. Beat 
 all in a mortar; and when used roll and frv it, and serve it 
 with fried sippets, or on stewed vegetables, or on white collops. 
 
 Beef Sausages. 
 
 These are made of minced collops, with seasonings, and a 
 proportion of suet. The crumb of a penny loaf, soaked in 
 water, is allowed to every three pounds of meat, before filling 
 the skins. 
 
 Mutton Sausages. 
 
 Take a pound of the rawest part of a leg of mutton that 
 nas been either roasted or boiled; chop it extremely small, 
 and season it with pepper, salt, mace, and nutmeg; add to it 
 six ounces of beef-suet, some sweet herbs, two anchovies, and 
 a pint of oysters, all chopped very small; a quarter of a pound 
 of grated bread, some of the anchovy liquor, and the yelks and 
 whites of two eggs well beaten. Put it all, when well mixed, 
 into a little pot; and use it, by rolling it into balls, or sausage- 
 shape, and frying. If approved, a little shalot may be added, 
 or garlic, which is a great improvement. 
 
 Oxford Sausages , (probatum est.) 
 
 One pound of lean pork, one pound of fat ditto, and one 
 pound of lean veal, all carefully cleared of skin and sinews, 
 shred very fine with a chopping knife, or beat with a lard 
 beater: one pound of crumbs of bread, about thirty leaves of 
 sage shred very small, (some add a little parsley and thyme, 
 others a little garlic, shalot, or leek,) mix the mass well to¬ 
 gether; season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg: beat separately 
 the yelks and whites of four eggs, mix in the yelks and as 
 much of the whites as is necessary to make it adhere. These 
 sausages are always fried; each pound should be divided into 
 eighteen equal parts, and a very small dust of flour shaken 
 over them. No fat or butter must be put in the pan, as 
 sausages made in this proportion will always fry themselves. 
 
 b n s e 
 
391 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Have a perfectly clear fire and rather brisk, shake the pan 
 the whole time, and the sausages when done will be of a fine 
 pale brown. Let them be laid on fish drainers and serve 
 very hot. Enough fat will remain in the pan to lry a few 
 slices of bread or potatoes. 
 
 Oxford Sausages , another Recipe. 
 
 Take of pork and veal an equal quantity, let it be free from 
 miews and skin, chop it very small; then add half as much 
 good beef suet as meat, chop it together till the suet is very 
 fine, then season with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, some sage and 
 thyme minced small, two or three eggs, and a little water as 
 you see good. 
 
 Smoked Scotch Sausages, to keep and eat cold. 
 
 Salt a piece of beef for two days, and mince it with suet. 
 Season it highly with pepper, salt, onion, or shalot. Fill a 
 large well cleaned ox-gut, plait it in links, and hang the sau¬ 
 sage in the chimney to dry. Boil it as wanted, either a single 
 link or altogether. 
 
 Another way.— Season fat and lean pork with some salt, 
 saltpetre, black pepper, and allspice, all in fine powder, and 
 rub into the meat; the sixth day cut it small; and mix with it 
 some shalot or garlic, shred as fine as possible. Have ready 
 an ox-gut that has been scoured, salted, and soaked well, and 
 fill it with the above stuffing; tie up the ends, and hang it to 
 smoke as you would hams, but first wrap it in a fold or two of 
 old muslin. It must be high-dried. Some eat it without 
 boiling, but others like it boiled first. The skin should be 
 tied in different places, so as to make each link about eight or 
 nine inches long. 
 
 Sava/oys, or Cervelas. 
 
 Take a piece of tender pork, free from skin and gristles, 
 and salt it with common salt and a little saltpetre. In two 
 or three days mince it, and season with pepper, chopped sage, 
 and a little grated bread. Fill the gut, and bake the sava- 
 loys for half an hour in a moderate oven. If to be eaten cold, 
 let them lie a day or two longer in the salt. 
 
SAUSAGES. 
 
 ?>05 
 
 Bologna Sausages. 
 
 lake of beef-suet, fat and lean bacon, beef and veal, one 
 pound each; cut them small, and chop them fine; then pick 
 off the leaves of a handful of sage, and mince them with a 
 few sweet herbs; season the meat with pepper and salt; and 
 having filled a large gut with the mixture, put it into a sauce¬ 
 pan of boiling water, first pricking the gut to prevent its 
 bursting. Let it boil gently for an hour, and then lay it on 
 clean straw to drv. 
 
 To make German Sausages. 
 
 Take the crumb of a small loaf, one pound of suet, half a 
 lamb’s lights, parsley, thyme, sweet marjoram, and onion, 
 minced small, and seasoned with pepper and salt. Stuff 
 these into a sheep’s gut, and fry them in melted suet, for im¬ 
 mediate use 
 
 The following seven articles are from a very old Cook’s 
 Dictionary, and deserve attention. The Bologna Sausages in 
 particular will be found a very near imitation of those im¬ 
 ported and sold at a very high price. Before boiling, the 
 meats should have been sprinkled two or three days with com¬ 
 mon salt and saltpetre, which is not mentioned. 
 
 To make Sausages. 
 
 Having provided sheep’s guts that are well cleaned, take 
 good pork, either leg or loin, break the bones small, boil them 
 in just water enough to cover them; let it be well skimmed, 
 and season the liquor with salt, pepper, whole mace, onion, 
 and shalot; when they have boiled till all the goodness is out 
 of them, strain the liquor, and set it by to cool; then mince 
 your meat very small, season it with salt, pepper, cloves, and 
 ir.acc, all beaten; shred a little spinage to make it look green, 
 and a handful of sage and savoury; add also the yelks ot 
 eggs, and make all the minced meats and herbs pretty moist 
 with the liquor the bones were boiled in ; then roll up some 
 of your minced meat in flour, and fry it, to try if it be sea¬ 
 soned to your liking; and when it is so, fill the guts with 
 
COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 39G 
 
 the meat. If they are for present spending you may mince a 
 tew oysters with your meat. 
 
 Another way.—Take the best andtenderest pieces of hog’s 
 flesh, both fat and lean an equal quantity; you may, if you 
 please, mix a little veal with it; chop these well together with 
 a little shalot; season with salt, pepper, all sorts of spices, and 
 savoury herbs, a small handful of grated bread; fill the guts 
 with these ingredients, and prick them often to let out the 
 wind, and to make them fill the better: when the sausages 
 are filled, smooth them with your hand, tie them in lengths 
 according to your mind, and broil them on a gridiron over a 
 slack fire. You may serve them for outworks, or use them 
 for other garnishings. 
 
 Veal sausages are made after the same manner, taking the 
 flesh of a fillet of veal, instead of pork, and as much fat of 
 h off’s flesh as fillet of veal. 
 
 o 
 
 Another way.—Lay a leg of pork in salt and water for two 
 hours, take off all the fat, chop the lean very small, shred four 
 pounds of beef suet very fine; season them with an ounce of 
 pepper, an ounce of mace beaten fine, and half an ounce of 
 cloves, and a handful of sage and rosemary shred fine; break 
 in half a score eggs, mingled all well together, fill your hog’s 
 guts with them, give them a gentle boil, and hang them up in 
 the chimney to dry. 
 
 To make Sausages without Skins. 
 
 Take a leg of good young pork, cut off all the lean, take 
 out all the sinews or skins from it, and mince it very small; 
 then shred two pounds of beef suet very small, season with 
 salt, pepper, nutmeg, a piece of an onion, and a handful of 
 red sage chopped small; then mince and mingle them all wel'l 
 together; add the yelks of three or four eggs, and make it 
 into paste, roll it out into pieces, in the form of a sausage, 
 and fry them. The meat thus ordered will keep good a 
 fortnight. 
 
 To make Sausages called Oxford Skates. 
 
 Chop the lean of a leg of pork or veal, small, with four 
 pounds of butter or beef suet; then season the meat with 
 
SAUSAGES. 
 
 31-7 
 
 salt, three quarters of a 3 ounce of pepper, half the quantity of 
 doves and mace, and a good handful of sage chopped small: 
 mingle all these well together; then take the yelks of ten 
 eggs, and the whites but of seven, and temper them well 
 with the meat, and as you use them roll them out with flour, 
 if you please; make butter boiling hot in a frying pan, and 
 fry them brown; then eat them with mustard. 
 
 To make Bologna Sausages. 
 
 Take three pounds of buttock of beef, and as much of a 
 leg of pork. Of the fat of pork or bacon, two pounds or 
 better; of beef suet a pound and a half; parboil the meat, over 
 a slack fire for an hour; then shred it small, each by itself; 
 afterwards shred the pork fat and suet by themselves; then 
 take red sage, savoury, thyme, and penny-royal, of each an 
 equal quantity, and the weight of two ounces in the whole; 
 shred these very fine, mix them with nutmeg, cinnamon, 
 cloves and mace, grossly powdered, all together six drachms. 
 Mix meat, herbs, and spices all well together, with a sufficient 
 quantity of salt; then add the yelks of twelve eggs, and four 
 ounces of flour made into a soft paste : mix these all very 
 well together, and pound them in a mortar, and having cleansed 
 and prepared ox guts, fill them with the meat, and tie them up ; 
 then smoke, or dry them in a tin stove over a fire made of 
 saw-dust, for three or four days. 
 
 Cleanse the ox-guts from their filth, cut them into proper 
 lengths; lay them in water and salt, let them lie for three or 
 four days, turning them inside out, and wash them well till 
 they are clean and white. 
 
 To make Royal Sausages. 
 
 Chop the flesh of partridges, and of a fat capon or pullet, 
 with gammon and other bacon, a piece of a leg of veal raw ; 
 cives, parsley, mushrooms, truffles; season with salt, pepper, 
 beaten spice, and a clove or two of garlic; then add the yelks 
 of six and whites of two eggs, with a little cream; mix these 
 well together, roll it into thick pieces, and wrap them up in 
 very thin slices, cut out of a fillet of veal, beaten very flat, so 
 that ti e sausages may be about the thickness of a large man’s 
 wrist, and of a length proportionable; then garnish an oval 
 
398 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 stew-pan with slices of bacon and beef-steaks, and put ki your 
 sausages, cover them with beef-steaks, and lay slices of bacon 
 over the beef; cover the stew-pan very close, and set it be¬ 
 tween two gentle fires, the one under, and the other over it; 
 let them stew for eight or ten hours: then take them from 
 the fire, set them by the stew-pan to cool; then take them 
 out gently, that you do not not break them, take off 'lie slices 
 of veal in which you rolled them, and all the fat; then cut 
 the sausages into slices with a sharp knife, dish them neatly 
 and serve them up cold. 
 
 French smoked Sausages. 
 
 Mince what quantity of fresh pork will be necessary; mix 
 with it equal to a quarter of lard, salt, and fine spices ; fill the 
 skins and tie them; hang them in the smoke for three days ; 
 then simmer them in broth for three hours, with salt, a clove 
 of garlic, thyme, bay, basil, parsley, and young onions; when 
 cold serve upon a napkin. 
 
 PUDDINGS IN SKINS. 
 
 Black Hog Puddings. 
 
 Stir three quarts of blood well, with a spoonful of salt, till 
 cold, and strain it through a sieve; add three pounds of the 
 inside fat of the pig, cut in small squares, a quart of Embden 
 groats, boiled soft in a cloth; stir these into it by degrees, 
 with the fat; then add half a pint of cream, a pint of bread 
 crumbs, one ounce of ground allspice, three table-spoonfuls of 
 pounded sage, one ditto of pounded thyme, with one ounce of 
 pepper, and one ounce of salt; when stuffed in the skins, 
 prick and boil them gently twenty minutes ; take care they do 
 not break; when done, cover over with clean wheat straw. 
 
 N. B. It is necessary to take the largest skins of the bacon 
 hog for this use; and when wanted for table, broil or bake 
 them crisp. 
 
 The French way. 
 
 Boil twelve onions in broth, with parsley, young onions, 
 tli^me, basil, and a bay-leaf; chop them very fine ; take four 
 
I'UDDINGS. 
 
 809 
 
 pints of blood that lias been properly taken froia tbe throat of 
 the animal; put in a little vinegar to prevent it from curd¬ 
 ling; cut a pound and a half of the caul in dices; put it into 
 the blood with four pints of rich cream, hashed fine herbs, 
 fine spices, salt, and pepper, mix all well together; take the 
 puddings of hogs or sheep, which must be well scraped and 
 cleaned; fill them with a filler; but do not make them too 
 full, otherwise they might break; tie them into proper lengths; 
 put them into a pot of warm water, and do them over a slow 
 fire to prevent their breaking; turn them carefully with a skim¬ 
 mer , if they are pricked, and the fat comes out, they are 
 sufficiently done; take them up upon a cloth, and let them 
 cool; when they are to be sent to table slit and grill them. 
 
 Another way.—Take a sufficient quantity of onions, put 
 them in a wooden bowl, and with a harness-maker’s knife 
 
 mince them ; then put them in a stew-pan with some of the 
 cauls; put them upon the fire till the onions are well done, 
 without being browned; let them cool a little; put in the 
 blood; and mix seasoning with fine salt, fine herbs, and spices; 
 add cream, and finish as before. 
 
 Another way. Boil a quantity of grits in water for about 
 half an hour, and then put them into a pan. On killing the 
 hog, save two quarts of the blood, and keep it stirred till cold. 
 Then mix and stir together that and the grits, adding thereto 
 a table-spoonful of salt, some powdered allspice, a quantity of 
 penny-royal, thyme, winter savoury, and sweet marjoram finely 
 shredded. Clean, salt, and soak the skin or guts; then cut 
 some of the Hear or fat of the hog into dice, and mix it with 
 the other ingredients. Fill the skins with the meat, giits, 
 and herbs, tie them in links when three parts full, and put 
 them into boiling water, pricking them as they swell, to pre¬ 
 vent their bursting. Boil them gently about an hour, then 
 lay them on straw or clean cloths to drain, after which, hang 
 them up for use. 
 
 Another way.—Soak in a quart of milk the same quantity 
 of grits the night before the hog is killed; add’ to the same, 
 
 a quantity of penny-royal, savoury, thyme, pepper, mace, nut¬ 
 meg, and cloves finely powdered. Mix these with a quart of 
 the blood well stirred with salt till cold. Then fill the skina 
 
400 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 with this mixture, and somo of the fat cut into dice, and hoik 
 them. Some add crumbs of bread soaked in milk and water, 
 shredded leeks, beef-suet, beaten eggs, and other things, ac¬ 
 cording to taste. Previous to using black puddings, they 
 should be scalded a few minutes, and then wiped dry. 
 
 White Hog Puddings. 
 
 One pound of grated bread or biscuit, three-quarters of a 
 pound of suet or marrow chopped very fine, eight eggs, and 
 four whites separately beaten and strained; one quart of rich 
 milk, or part cream: the rind of a lemon pared thin and 
 shred fine, and nutmeg grated, and a quarter of a pound ot the 
 best almonds blanched and beat: mix the ingredients and 
 sweeten to taste with loaf sugar. 
 
 Have ready the skins very nicely cleaned (as above direct¬ 
 ed) and steeped in rose, orange flower, or peach water; put 
 the puddings in, tie them up securely, and put into boiling 
 water; let them boil till the skin begins to swell, then take 
 out and pinch the skins, put in again and watch that the skins 
 do not crack; when done enough, lay them on a clean napkin 
 to cool: they are to be broiled and served with wine sauce. 
 French Hog Puddings. 
 
 Boil some onions cut small in a little water, with some of 
 the fat; and when the liquor is nearly reduced, cut more flear 
 into dice, and put it into the stew-pan with the onions, the 
 blood, and a fourth part as much cream, seasoned with salt 
 and spicery. Stir these well, and fill the skins by means of a 
 funnel adapted to the size of the gut, which is first cut into 
 the length of the puddings. Tie the ends so that they may 
 not burst ; then put them into boiling water, and in a quarter 
 of an hour prick them, and if no blood comes out, it is a sign 
 that they are done enough. Then set them to cool, and be¬ 
 fore serving up, broil them on a gridiron. 
 
 IVhite Hog's Puddings. 
 
 After cleaning the skins, soak them all night in rose water, 
 and then half fill them with a mixture of half a pound of 
 blanched almonds, each cut into seven or eight pieces, a 
 pound of grated bread, two pounds of marrow ot suet, one 
 pound of currants, some pounded cinnamon and cloves, mact 
 
PUDDINGS IN SKINS. 
 
 401 
 
 and nutmeg, a 
 of two effofs: a 
 
 OCT 7 
 
 lemon peel, and 
 and take care to 
 vith a fork. 
 
 quart of cream, the yelks of six and the whites 
 little orange flower water, some Lisbon sinmr, 
 citron sliced. Boil them in milk and waiter, 
 preserve them from bursting by pricking them 
 
 Another White Pudding in Skins, 
 
 After washing half a pound of rice in warm water, boil it 
 in milk till tender; then put it into a sieve to drain; in the 
 mean time, beat up half a pound of sweet almonds very fine 
 with rose water; wash and dry a pound of currants, cut a 
 pound of hog’s lard small, beat up six eggs, half a pound of 
 sugai, a nutmeg grated, a stick of cinnamon, some mace, and 
 salt. fill the skins with this mixture, and boil them. 
 
 Another way.—Take four pounds of beef-suet shrede i 
 tine, three pounds of grated bread, and two pounds of currants 
 picked and washed; a quarter of an ounce each, of cloves, 
 mace, and cinnamon, finely beaten : salt, a pound and a half of 
 sugar, a pint of wine, a quart of cream, some rose water, and 
 twenty eggs well beaten, with half the whites. Mix these 
 well, and half fill the guts, boil them a little, and prick them ; 
 take them up when done, and lay them to dry. 
 
 Hog's Puddings with Almonds. 
 
 Chop a pound of beef-marrow, and half a pound of sweet 
 almonds blanched; beat them fine with orange-flower or rose 
 water; take half a pound of grated bread, the same quantity 
 of currants, a quarter of a pound of fine sugar, a quarter of an 
 ounce each, of mace, nutmeg, and cinnamon, and half a pint of 
 wme. Mix these with half a pint of cream, and the yelks ot 
 
 four eggs; half fill the skins, tie them up, and boil them a 
 quarter or an hour. 
 
 To make Liver Puddings. 
 
 Wash and clean the guts ; boil the liver till it will grate 
 or pound; take an equal quantity of minced suet and liver, 
 chop an onion or two, season with pepper, salt, and a little 
 thyme rubbed small. Half fill the guts; cut them into pro¬ 
 per lengths, and fasten the ends. Let them boil a little, ana 
 prick them to prevent bursting. When done, lay them to 
 cool • broil, and serve them to table. 
 
 3 F 
 
402 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 To make Sweet Pudding$. 
 
 According to the quantity you intend to fill, mince equal 
 quantities of beef-suet, and apples; grate some stale bread; 
 wash some currants; pound raw sugar, nutmeg, and cinna¬ 
 mon ; and grate a piece of lemon peel. Mix these well, and 
 fill the guts; boil them, and in about a quarter of an hour 
 take them out to drain. When wanted for use, put them 
 first into boiling water, and then on a gridiron. 
 
 To make Oatmeal Puddings. 
 
 To one pound and a half of suet chopped fine, add two 
 pounds of oatmeal, an onion or two sliced; season with pep¬ 
 per and salt, and fill the skins or guts as before. The oat¬ 
 meal should be well dried before it is used. 
 
 The French prepare many different puddings in skins, most 
 of them very delicious, but more troublesome and expensive 
 than those that are commonly adopted among us. The fol¬ 
 lowing are specimens:— 
 
 White Pudding. 
 
 Prepare a dozen of onions as directed for black pudding; 
 make a very dry panada of cream ; put the onions with it into 
 a mortar, adding sweet almonds that have been put through a 
 search ; mix altogether; add some raw yelks of eggs, caul 
 cut in dices, white of roasted fowls hashed very fine; pound 
 altogether, and moisten with warm rich cream; season with salt 
 and fine spices; taste if it is good, and fill the skins. 
 
 These puddings do not require so much cooking as the 
 black: instead of water use milk; let them cool and prick 
 them, instead of cutting, before they are put upon the grill; 
 the best manner of doing them is to put them into a white 
 paper case. 
 
 Crayfish Pudding. 
 
 Take half a hundred of crawfish, and boil them in broth, 
 let them cool ; take the shells off the claws and tails, and sup¬ 
 press that of the bodies : dry the shells, pound and make a 
 butter of them,* cut the tails in dice ; put them into a stew- 
 
 • This is done by wiping the shells, and drying them in a cool oven or 
 stove; then beating them fine in a mortar, add their weight in butter, 
 then beat again, until the mass is reduced to a smooth paste. 
 
rUDDINGS IN SKINS. 
 
 403 
 
 pan with the spawn; take the white of a fowl minced fine, 
 panada of cream very dry, some roasted onions, some fat livers 
 cut in slices and also in dice; mix in the butter some spoon¬ 
 fuls of rich gravy, fine spices and salt; mix all well togeth 
 and fill, tie them, and cook them as the white puddings. 
 
 Rabbit Pudding. 
 
 Roast a young rabbit; take off’the flesh and pick out the 
 sinews; hash it with the liver very fine; break the bones, 
 and put them into a stew-pan; moisten with rich stock, let it 
 boil to draw the flavour, with which a panada is to be made; 
 pound the meat and panada together; add a third of butter, 
 that is to say, put in an equal part of the three ingredients; 
 add fine minced onions that have been stewed in gravy, six 
 raw yelks of eggs, reduced cold cream, as much as is necessary 
 to make the whole to the consistence of pudding; add fine 
 spices, salt, and nutmeg, and finish as is directed above. 
 
 Pheasant Pudding. 
 
 Roast a pheasant, and prepare it as directed in the above 
 receipt; prepare six onions as above, seasoned with salt, pep¬ 
 per, two cloves, basil, a bunch of parsley, and small onions ; 
 when the onions are done to a perfect reduction of their sea¬ 
 soning, mince them very fine; mix all together and pound 
 them; put in rich cream, six yelks of eggs, and three quarters 
 of a pound of white caul cut in dice, salt, and fine spices; fid 
 the puddings, and cook them as above. 
 
 Pork Chitterlings. 
 
 Cut pork skins of a proper size; clean them carefully, and 
 lay them in white wine for five or six hours, with thyme, basil, 
 and two cloves of garlic; cut some fillets of fresh pork, caul, 
 and fraize:* mix all rith salt, fine spices, and a little powdei 
 of anise seed; fill the puddings, not too much, as they might 
 burst; tie and boil them in a vessel of the same length, with 
 milk and water, parsley, young onions, a clove of garlic, 
 thvme, basil, bay-salt, pepper, and fraise; let them cool in 
 their seasoning; w : pe them well; nick them a little; grill, 
 and serve. 
 
 * Called in English the “pluck,” being the internal part of an aivnml, 
 liglils. heart, sweetbread, &c. of which the last article is the min e. 
 
404 
 
 COMPOUND COOKERY. 
 
 Avdouitles [or Chitterlings) a-la- Bechamelle. 
 
 Put a bit of butter into a slew-pan, wirii a slice of ham, 
 three shalots, parsley, young onions, a clovj of garlic, thyme, 
 basil, and bay; put them upon a slow fire; let them sweat a 
 quarter of an hour; moisten with a quart of milk; let them 
 boil and reduce to the half; pass it through a search; put in 
 a large handful of the crumb of bread, and make it boil until 
 the crumb has taken up all the milk; cut fillets of fresh pork, 
 caul, petit lard, and veal fraise ; mix all with the bread and 
 six yelks of eggs, fine spices, and salt; fill the puddings; tie, 
 and cook them in half milk and half fa broth, salt, pepper, 
 and a bunch of parsley and young onion i ; serve as directed 
 for the pig’s chitterlings. 
 
 Veal Chitterlings. 
 
 Take a veal’s fraise and udder; blanch them a full quarter 
 of an hour, and cut them in fillets; add a pound of petit lard, 
 cut in the same manner; mix the whole with salt, fine spices, 
 some minced shalots, four large spoonfuls of rich cream, and 
 four yelks of eggs ; employ pig’s puddings and simmer them 
 in rich broth, a bottle of white wine, a clove of garlic, thyme, 
 basil, bay, and a bunch of parsley and young onions; let them 
 cool in their seasoning; nick and grill them. 
 
 Calf's Chitterlings. 
 
 Take a fraise and one udder or two (according to their size) 
 of the veal, blanch and let them cool, mince them; hash some 
 mushrooms, shalots, parsley, and truffle; put these fine herbs 
 into a stew-pan with a bit of butter; pass them, and moisten 
 them with a glass of Malvoisie or Madeira; when that is half 
 reduced, put in four or five spoonfuls of Spanish sauce, and 
 reduce it; put in the other ingredients, six yelks of eggs, 
 salt, pepper, and fine herbs; taste if good; and fill the pud¬ 
 dings, not too full, and tie them; put them two minutes in 
 boiling water, to give them their form; let them cool; put 
 into a stew-pan slices of veal and ham, carrots, and onions; 
 put in the chitterlings; cover them with slices of bacon; 
 moisten with broth and white wine; let them simmer an hour; 
 leave them to cool in their seasonj nick and giiii them. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 OF CURING INI EAT, TONGUES, HAM. 
 
 General Directions. 
 
 Meat should either be cut up and salted before the animal 
 heat have left it, or else be allowed to hang a few days to become 
 tender In regulating this, due regard must be had to the 
 state of the weather. In fact temperate weather is always to 
 be preferred for salting meat, as there is danger in intense 
 heat, of the meat becoming fly-blown or putrid, before it can 
 be salted ; and in severe cold it becomes frozen, which prevents 
 the salt penetrating. 
 
 Every part of the meat must be carefully inspected, and all 
 veins, kernels, and bloody slime removed previously to salting. 
 During the process any doubled parts must be daily examined, 
 and if any scum or mouldiness appears, be immediately re 
 moved. It is a very common practice to salt many joints in 
 succession in the same brine; this has nothing but frugality 
 to recommend it, and as salt is now so much cheaper than 
 formerly, we should strongly recommend the frequent entire 
 clearing of the salting pan or trough, and the renewal of the 
 brine. Meat never cats so tender and mellow as when salted 
 wfth fresh materials to form its own brine If however meat 
 is to be put in the brine in which former meat has been salted, 
 it should at any rate be first rubbed for a day or two with 
 fresh common salt; or if half the quantity of the ingredients 
 directed for fresh salting were to be well rubbed in, the pickle 
 of former meat might then be added with advantage. The 
 proper and successful management of the salt-pan will be best 
 acquired by observation and experiem e. 
 
 During the process of salting, meat cannot be to< closely 
 covered up, at any rate there should be a lid to fit the pan; 
 and several folds >af blanket or something of the kind are 
 
406 
 
 CUR1NU . 4 E A T, 
 
 nv many people recommended in addition; this will be under¬ 
 stood as applying only to the vessel in which the salting is 
 carried on, the place should he cool, airy, and if possible dark. 
 
 The quantity of salt and other ingredients should not he 
 put on at once; but the meat first sprinkled for a day with 
 common salt, to draw out blood and slime; this is better done 
 in a flat dish ; then let it be removed into the vessel in which 
 it is to be finally salted, then rub in half the salting ingredients, 
 and in two or three days the remaining half. During the 
 whole process the meat should he rubbed, hasted, and turned, 
 at least daily. 
 
 Where much salting is going on, especially for tongues 
 or fleshy pieces of meat, it is a good way to have a wooden 
 ad that will just drop within the pan or trough, and on this 
 to place several weights so as to press down the meat and 
 keep as nearly as possible covered w T ith brine. 
 
 Salting troughs are commonly lined with lead, it were to 
 be wished this practice could be avoided on account of health. 
 Glazed earthen pans are still more pernicious, as the salt acts 
 much more powerfully on lead prepared for the purpose of 
 glazing earthenware, than upon lead in its native state. Ex¬ 
 cept for its weight, which would render it difficult to obtain 
 vessels of any considerable size, the Nottingham or Welch 
 stone ware would be preferable. A wooden tray hollowed 
 out like a canoe and well pitched, answers the purpose very 
 well. It may be fitted on a frame of legs of a convenient 
 height, and should have a hole at one corner for the brine to 
 run off occasionally ; this must be securely stopped with a peg 
 or cork. 
 
 Whenever the salting vessels are empty they should be 
 thoroughly scalded and scoured inside and out, and exposed 
 io the air till perfectly dry. 
 
 Of the Ingredients for Salting. 
 
 Much good and well flavoured meat, especially bacon, is 
 cored with common salt only. Bay salt, however, is thought 
 to give a better flavour, sal prunel is also frequently used. 
 Sugar is one of the most valuable preservers of meat; while 
 equally efficacious with salt in its preserving qualities, it cor- 
 
TONGUES, HAMS, &C. 
 
 407 
 
 rects the harshness of oversalting, and secures a delightful 
 mellowness. Treacle answers the same purpose. Saltpetre 
 gives an agreeable redness ; but is apt to harden the meat. 
 It is much less used than formerly. When a high foreign 
 flavour is desired for hams, tongues, or brawn, pepper and 
 other spices are adopted; whatever the ingredients are, care 
 should be taken to pound them finely, mix them thoroughly, 
 and rub them into every part of the meat. In hams, the 
 knuckle should be stuffed with the salting as far as the finder 
 
 o o 
 
 can reach and then tied up with packthread. By this means 
 it works its way thoroughly into the meat. 
 
 Of Drying , Smoking , and Keeping. 
 
 The pi ocess of salting being completed, various methods 
 are adopted for drying the meat. It is usual to drain the 
 meat a day or two, and rub the fleshy side with bran; this 
 bran we should recommend to have been previously dried in 
 an oven, lest any insects should be among it, which might prove 
 injurious to the bacon. 
 
 It is then generally sewed in wrappers of coarse hessens; 
 these we strongly recommend, both as guarding the meat 
 against too intense heat, and against an accumulation of dust 
 and dirt, which can be no ways beneficial to the flavour of the 
 meat, and must occasion considerable waste. The cost of 
 these wrappers is very trifling, and, with care, they will serve 
 many years in succession. Neat’s tongues, pig’s cheeks, and 
 other small articles, may be tied in coarse brown paper. 
 
 The drying is carried on in various ways. Some people 
 merely hang, or lay on a rack, in a warm dry place, usually 
 in the influence of the kitchen fire. It is generally supposed 
 that bacon thus dried goes farther; but the flavour is not so 
 good, neither is it so securely dried for long keeping. 
 
 Some people dry their bacon in the influence of a baker’s 
 oven, and others in that of a malt-house kiln; both of these 
 we consider exceptionable. Without pretending to account for 
 the fact, we have repeatedly observed, that bacon dried at a 
 baker’s is very liable to weevils or hoppers; and that bacon 
 dried in a malt house is generally liable to rust; l«??ide£ 
 which, both want the true smoked flavour. 
 
108 
 
 CURING MEAT, 
 
 The very best way of drying bacon is by smoking it in a 
 chimney over the smoke of wood, stubble, litter, or saw-dust. 
 That of fir or deal is generally avoided. Turf and peat also 
 are objectionable as giving a very unpleasant flavour. Per¬ 
 haps nothing makes a better fire for smoking bacon, than 
 roots or billets, occasionally lighted up with furze or fern; 
 such a fire may be kept in all night with very little trouble or 
 expense, and with great advantage to the bacon ; a heavy root 
 will smother all night, or a shovel or two of sawdust lightly 
 thrown on. Care must be taken to hang the bacon out of 
 the way of rain, and not near enough the fire for the fat to 
 melt, which not only is very wasteful, but invariably occasions 
 rust. A constant moderate fire is to be preferred before one 
 that is occasionally fierce and blazing and at other times suf¬ 
 fered to go out. The bacon should hang long enough to 
 become perfectly dry, but not long enough to harden. Where 
 a constant fire is kept, a month will generally be sufficient for 
 flitches of bacon: for hams, tongues, and other small matters, 
 a less time, in proportion to their size. 
 
 When it is desired to give hams or other salt meat a strong 
 foreign flavour, the use of aromatic woods, or wood that has 
 been newly pitched, is adopted; juniper wood is generally pre¬ 
 ferred; or any kind of aromatic herbs may be used with ad¬ 
 vantage, as balm, mint, sage, rosemary, rue, tansey, camomile, 
 southernwood. This high smoking is particularly applied to 
 mutton hams, tongues, and high seasoned sausages for eating 
 cold. This may be done on a very small scale by suspending 
 the articles to be smoked in an inverted hogshead in which 
 the aromatic smoke is confined. For this purpose the hogs¬ 
 head may be fixed over a moveable grate, either out of doors, 
 or in an out house. 
 
 For keeping the bacon and hams when dried, various me¬ 
 thods have been recommended, perhaps the two following are 
 tire best; either of which may be adopted as circumstances 
 render most convenient. 
 
 I. On taking the articles from the chimney, let the wrappers 
 be removed, and the bacon &e. white washed tw< or three 
 times, a dav between each washing. It will then keep well 
 or a rac^ in a kitchen, or any dry place. 
 
TONGUES, HAM, &C. 
 
 40 !) 
 
 2. liave a large chest or box, long enough to hold the 
 flitches, sift over the bottom some ashes of wood, turf, peat, 
 or very dry sand, lay in one flitch, which cover with six or 
 eight inches of the ashes, and then another flitch in the same 
 way. If the ashes become damp, dry them by the fire and 
 replace them in the box. This method has been found very 
 successful in preserving bacon fresh, sweet, and free from 
 hoppers. 
 
 Directions for boiling bacon, ham, tongues, &c. have been 
 given in the early part of this work, to which the reader is 
 referred with this additional observation, that the colour of 
 salt meat is improved, and that it eats more tender, short, and 
 mellow if three or four handfuls of hay flowers be boiled with 
 it, or if these cannot he procured, sweet hay tied up in a 
 coarse bag or cloth. Particular directions will now he given, 
 many of them original or only in private circulation, and 
 others taken from the most approved sources already before 
 the public. 
 
 To salt Bacon. 
 
 Salt it six days with common salt only, then drain off that 
 pickle and mix, for a final salting, with as much common salt 
 as you think necessary, twelve ounces of bay salt, four ounces 
 of saltpetre, and a pound of coarse sugar; let these ingre* 
 dients he well rubbed in and turned every day for a month. 
 
 For Wiltshire Bacon. 
 
 The usual proportions are equal parts of coarse sugar and 
 bay salt; a pound and a half of each is the quantity for a 
 moderate sized hog; to this add one pound of common salt 
 and half a pound of salt-petre. 
 
 The following proportions are preferable, though somewhat 
 more expensive:— 
 
 Common salt, two pounds. Coarse sugar, two pounds 
 
 Bay salt, ditto. Saltpetre, six ounces. 
 
 Somersetshire Bacon. 
 
 On killing a hog, the flitches are placed in wooden troughs, 
 
 3 G 
 
cun in < MEvr, 
 
 41 'if 
 
 an ! sprinkled over ■ vitli bay salt. In tliis state they are !eft 
 to drain twenty-four hours; then taken out and wiped dry 
 Fresh bay salt is then heated in a frying-pan, and the troughs 
 having been cleaned out, the flitches are replaced, and the 
 hot salt rubbed over them. 1 his process is repeated four 
 days, the flitches being turned each time. If they are large, 
 they are left in the brine three weeks, and afterwards dried 
 without smoke. 
 
 Buck inghamsh i re Bacon. 
 
 Having reduced to powder about half a pound of salt¬ 
 petre, the meat is well rubbed with it; and the next day, 
 three or four pounds of common salt are heated with a pound 
 of coarse sugar over the fire; and when quite hot, rubbed 
 equally over the bacon and hams, which are next put with the 
 skinside down’wards in a salting vessel. "1 he proportion for 
 a ham is two pounds of salt, and for the two flitches six or 
 seven pounds, with one of sugar. Both the bacon and bams 
 must remain a month in the pickle, being turned therein once 
 or twice a week. When thoroughly done, the hams and 
 sides are hung up on the rack or in the chimney, without any 
 extraordinary smoke. 
 
 J 
 
 Westphalia Bacon. 
 
 Take a gallon of pump water, a quarter of a peck of bay, 
 and as much of common salt, a pound of saltpetre, four ounces 
 of coarse sugar, and an ounce of socho tied up in a rag. Boil 
 these well, and let the pickle stand to cool; then put in the 
 side of pork, and let it remain a fortnight; after which take it 
 out, and dry it over the smoke of sawdust. 
 
 Hamburgh Pickle. 
 
 For keeping meat in summer.—Take sixteen quarts of 
 water, ten pounds of common salt, six ounces of saltpetre, 
 half a pound of brown sugar; boil together, and skim it, 
 when cold cover the meat with it after three weeks boil and 
 skim, adding thi te pounds more salt, and two ounces of salt¬ 
 petre; after the same time noil it again: it will keep three 
 irouths. 
 
TONGUES, IiAM, SCC. 
 
 Ill 
 
 ''*• A joint of meat dipped in this may be him ; some 
 time before it spoils. 
 
 Another Pickle for the preservation of Pork, Tongues, fre. 
 
 To four gallons of water put a pound of Muscavedo sugar, 
 four ounces of saltpetre, six pounds ot bay or common salt. 
 Put the whole into a pot, or kettle, and let it boil, taking care 
 to remove the scum as it rises. Take the vessel from the 
 fire when no more scum rises, and let the liquor stand till it 
 become cold; then put the meat intended to be preserved, 
 into the vessel appropriated for keeping it, and pour upon it 
 the preserving liquor, covering the meat, in which condition it 
 must be kept. Meat preserved in this manner has been taken 
 out of the prckle after lying in it for the space of ten weeks, 
 and been found as good as if it had not been salted above 
 three days, and at the same time as tender as could be de¬ 
 sired. 1 he pickle after the second boiling will keep good 
 for twelve months.—This is an excellent pickle for curing 
 hams, tongues, and beef intended for drying. Observe, when 
 the meat is taken out of the pickle for drying, to wipe it clean 
 and dry, and then to put it into paper bags, to be hung up in 
 a dry place. 
 
 A Pickle that will keep for years, for Hams, Tongues, or 
 & e <f f boiled and skimmed between each parcel of them. 
 
 To two gallons of spring-water put two pounds of coarse 
 sugar, two pounds of bay, and two pounds and a half of com¬ 
 mon salt, and half a pound of saltpetre, in a deep earthen 
 glazed pan that will hold four gallons, and with a cover that 
 will fit close. Keep the beef or hams as long as they will 
 bear, before you put them into the pickle; and sprinkle'them 
 with coarse sugar in a pan from which they must drain. Ilub 
 the hams, &e. well with the pickle, and pack them in close; 
 putting as much as the pan will hold, so that the pickle may 
 cover them. The pickle is not to be boiled at first. A 
 small ham may lie fourteen days, a large one three weeks; a 
 tongue twelve days, and beef in proportion to its size. They 
 wiil eat well out of the pickle without drying. When they 
 are to be dried, let each piece be drained over the pan; and 
 
i)2 
 
 CURING MEAT, 
 
 when it will drop nc longer, take a clean sponge and dry it 
 thoroughly. Six or eight hours will smoke them, and there 
 should be only a little sawdust and wet straw burnt to do tl is; 
 but if put into a baker’s chimney, sew them in coarse cloth, 
 and hang them a week. 
 
 1 . To pickle Ilams, an original Recipe. 
 
 To two small hams put one pound of coarse moist sugar, 
 three ounces of saltpetre, three ounces of bay salt, two ounces 
 of black pepper ground, and one pound of common salt all 
 mixed too-ether and dried before the fire; rub the hams tho- 
 roughly with this mixture, and add as much common salt as 
 will cover them. In a day or two afterwards pour over them 
 half a pound of treacle. Baste them with the pickle every day 
 for a fortnight. 
 
 N. B. The same pickle will answer very well for neats’ 
 tongues. . 
 
 2. Another way. 
 
 Black pepper, a quarter of an 
 ounce. 
 
 Coarse sugar, one pound. 
 
 Sal prunella, two ounces. 
 I'lie above is sufficient for two hams of twenty pounds, 
 let them remain in the pickle three weeks. 
 
 Common salt, one pint. 
 Saltpetre, a quarter of a pound. 
 Bay salt, two ounces. 
 
 8 . To cure Hams of forty pounds weight. 
 
 Saltpetre, a quarter of a pound. Common salt, one pound. 
 
 Sal prunel, three ounces Juniper berries, one ounce. 
 
 Coarse sugar, a pound and a half. 
 
 Finely pounded together and well rubbed into the hams 
 which must lie in the pan or trough with the rind downwards, 
 and which if large will require a month in pickle, if smaller a 
 less time in proportion. 
 
 Another way.—Choose the short, thick legs of clean-fed 
 hogs. To each large ham allow half a pound of bay salt, two 
 ounces, or even more, of saltpetre, eight ounces of coarse 
 sugar, and half a pound of common salt, with four ounces oi 
 Jamaica and black pepper, and one of coriander seeds. Pound 
 
TONGUES, HAMS, Sic. 
 
 413 
 
 the ingredients, and mix them well; rub in about six ounces 
 of the salt and the saltpetre, and, after two days, the rest ol 
 the salt and the spices. 
 
 The most common Method to cure Hams. 
 
 Hang them a day or two, then sprinkle them with salt, 
 and let them drain twenty-four hours; pound an ounce and a 
 half of saltpetre, as much bay salt, half an ounce of sal 
 prune!, and one pound of the coarsest sugar. Mix all these 
 well, and rub each ham therewith four days, and turn it. If 
 it be a small ham, turn it for three weeks every day; if a 
 large one, a week longer; but they are not to be rubbed 
 after the first four days. Before the ham is dried, it must be 
 drained, and covered with bran. Smoke it ten days. 
 
 Another way.— If the leg is large, after hanging for two 
 days, rub it well with a mixture made of a pound of hay salt, 
 four ounces of saltpetre, one pound of coarse sugar, and a 
 handful of common salt, all thoroughly pounded. Lay the 
 ham with its rind downwards, and cover the upper part with 
 the mixture; basting it often with the pickle. Keep it thus 
 tour weeks, turning it every day; then drain it, cover it with 
 bran, and hang it in a chimney where wood is burnt, turning 
 it occasionally for ten days. 
 
 Another way.—Clean the ham, and sprinkle it with salt; 
 then rub it every day with a mixture made of half a pound of 
 common salt, as much bay salt, two ounces of saltpetre, the 
 same of black pepper, and one pound and a half of molasses. 
 'Burn it twice a day in the pickle for three weeks. Then put 
 it into water for one night, wipe it dry, and smoke it two or 
 three weeks. 
 
 Another way, to give it a high Flavour. 
 
 Hang the ham three davs, if the weather is not too hot; 
 then pour upon it a pickle made of an ounce of saltpetre, a 
 quarter of a pound of bay salt, as much common salt, the 
 same quantity of coarse sugar, and a quart of strong be*, r, 
 boiled together. Turn the ham twice a day for three weeks: 
 and then add to the mixture an ounce of black pepper, and 
 the same quantity of allspice, finely powdered. Cover ' 
 
CURING MKAT, 
 
 4 i i 
 
 with hran after wiping it, ami smoke it for three or fo'ir 
 weeks. If it is to be exposed near a strong fire, cover it with 
 coarse wrappers. 
 
 There is yet another way to give it a still higher flavour; 
 by sprinkling the ham with salt, after it has hung two o» 
 three days, and then let it drain; make a pickle ol a quart of 
 strong beer, half a pound of molasses, an ounce ot coriandei 
 seeds, two ounces of juniper berries, an ounce of common 
 pepper, as much allspice, and the same quantity of saltpetre, 
 half an ounce of sal prunel, a handful of salt, and a head of 
 shalot, all pounded fine. Boil these ingredients a few 
 minutes, and pour the liquid over the ham. It will be suffi¬ 
 cient for one of ten pounds. Rub and turn it every day for 
 a fortnight; then let it drain well, cover it with bran, put it 
 into a bag, and smoke it for three weeks. 
 
 The Yorkshire way of Curing Hams. 
 
 Beat them well; mix half a peck of salt, three ounces ot 
 saltpetre, half an ounce of sal prunel, and five pounds of 
 coarse salt. Having rubbed the hams thoroughly with this, 
 put them into a pan or tub, and lay what remains of the mix¬ 
 ture over them. After lying three days, hang them up; 
 '.hen put as much water to the pickle as will cover the hams, 
 adding salt thereto, till it will bear an egg; then boil, and 
 strain it off. Next morning put your hams into the pickle, 
 and keep them down, so that they may be thoroughly covered. 
 After lying a fortnight, take them out, rub them with bran, 
 and dry them. "This is the way to cure three hams, there¬ 
 fore, to do only one, the ingredients must be proportionably 
 less. 
 
 The New- England Mode. 
 
 For two hams, beat two ounces of sal prunel fine, rub it 
 in well, and let them lie twenty-four hours. Take half a 
 pound of bay salt, a quarter of a pound of common salt, an 
 ounce of saltpetre pounded well, and half a pound of the 
 coarsest sugar. Rub these well into the hams, and let them 
 lie two or three days. Next take common salt, and make a 
 strong brine, with two gallons of water, and half a pound of 
 
TONGUES, HAMS, &C. 
 
 4 15 
 
 coarse sugar. Boil these well; when cold, skim it; put the 
 hams therein, and turn them every two or three days for three 
 weeks. Hang them up in a chimney, and smoke them tor a 
 day or two with horse litter. Let them hang for a week on 
 the side of the chimney, and when you take them down, keep 
 them dry in a bin or chest covered with bran. 
 
 Westphalia Hams. 
 
 Cover the ham, either of the wild boar or the common 
 hog, with dry salt, for one day and a night; take a quarter of 
 a peck of bay and the same of common salt, and a pound each 
 of saltpetre and moist sugar, a quarter of a pound each of sal 
 prunel and pounded juniper berries, and an ounce of socho, 
 tied up in a cloth. Boil these, and when the liquor is cold, 
 put into it the ham, wiped clean from salt and blood, and let 
 it remain covered with brine near a month, turning it twice a 
 week. Then wipe it dry, mix some pounded pepper, salt, 
 and bran; rub them into the cavities, and all over the ham, 
 after which hang it on the side of a chimney where wood only 
 is burnt; and let it continue there from three to six months, 
 according to its size. 
 
 To boil a Gammon, or Ham, or any salted and smoked 
 Meat, as Neat's Tongues, Hog's Cheeks, Sfc. 
 
 Set on a kettle of water : put in three or four handfuls of 
 hay flowers, or, if you cannot get them, hay tied up in a 
 coarse bag or cloth. By this means the meat will be of a 
 much finer colour, more tender, short, and mellow. 
 
 Some old directories have prescriptions for baking hams 
 and gammons with stuffings of sweet herbs and eggs, 
 or with forcemeat and ragouts, or sweet sauces; but these 
 ingenious methods of spoiling a good article, are so much out 
 of fashion, that we think it needless to give the formula. The 
 following is worth notice. 
 
 O 
 
 To broil Bacon. 
 
 Make up a sheet of paper into the form of a dripping-pan, 
 cut your bacon into thin slices, cut off the rind, or otherwise, 
 
416 
 
 CURING MEAT, 
 
 as mav bo approved, lay the bacon in the paper on the god 
 iron over a clear fire and it will broil cleanly. 
 
 For Neats’ Tongues. 
 
 There is perhaps no better proportion than 
 
 Common salt | Coarse sugar. 
 
 Bay salt j Of each equal parts. 
 
 To each pound of the above mixture, add one ounce of sail 
 petre, one ounce ot sal prunel; and, if required to be highly 
 flavoured, of black pepper, allspice, coriander seeds, and juni¬ 
 per berries, two drachms each. 
 
 This quantity will suffice for three or four neats’ tongues, 
 or for smaller tongues in proportion. 
 
 The pickle when done with may be added to the ham or 
 bacon trough. 
 
 Mutton hams may be cured in the same manner; but it is 
 usual somewhat to increase the proportion of spices and 
 diminish that of salt. The use of a’ jmatic wood is V cry 
 much recommended in smoking mutton hams. 1 ney ire 
 highly esteemed for cutting in rashers* and broiling as a brca <- 
 fast or luncheon relish, or as an accompaniment to wine. 
 Mutton hams will keep long, but do not improve after i>'. 
 months. 
 
 iffig’s cheeks may be done in the same manner. 
 
 To salt a Round or Rump of Beef. 
 
 A rump of twenty-five pounds will take two ounces of salt¬ 
 petre, six of sugar, four of pepper, half a pound of bay salt, 
 and as much common salt. Rub the meat very well with the 
 mixed salts and spices; turn it on all sides, and rub it. Baste 
 and rub with the brine every day for a month. It may eithe’’ 
 be hung and dried, or boiled out of this pickle. 
 
 Dutch Beef 
 
 Rub a rump of meat with brown sugar, and let it lie tl re 3 
 days, turning it often: then wipe it, and salt it with I ■ .i' 
 ounces of bay salt, four ounces of common salt, and uvi 
 ounces of saltpetre, well beaten and mixed. Let it lie in t, 
 
 * Or, as we have been recently informed, rntioi —an allowance—a sii:«- 
 
TONtil/fS, HAMK, &c. 
 
 4-i7 
 
 for a fortnight, anti then roll it tight in a cloth and prtr.s it 
 under a weight. Smoke the meat in a cloth, hung in a 
 chimney where wood is burned; boil it piecemeal as it is 
 wanted : when boiled, press it till cold, and it will orate or 
 pull like Dutch beef. 
 
 Irish Beef. 
 
 Proceed as directed for a rump or round, only season with 
 nutmeg and mace, as well as the ingredients mentioned there. 
 
 For a Mart or winter store , much used in the Highlands 
 and other lone parts of Scotland. 
 
 Take an ordinary sized cow, cut it up in joints. T l e legs 
 and shins are better removed for using fresh, some people 
 also take away the prime pieces for roasting. This matter 
 however is generally regulated by the size of the family and 
 the quantity of meat required for winter consumption. 
 Whether the quantity of meat be more or less, take of spring 
 water sufficient to cover it, and with Liverpool (grev) salt, 
 make a pickle strong enough to float a potatoe. Stir till the 
 salt is dissolved ; then boil the pickle till all the scum is 
 thrown off. When quite cold, pour it over the meat in the 
 salting-tub or beef stand. 
 
 Observations. —The meat must be wholly and constantly 
 covered with the pickle, by occasionally adding fresh supplies 
 as it wastes, and using a sinking-board. If the pickle become 
 turbid, and a scum gather on it, either pour it off, and boil 
 and ski-m it well before returning it, when cold, to the meat, 
 or use a fresh pickle, which may now he afforded cheaply, 
 and is perhaps better, because purer than the original liquor 
 boiled up. Meat preserved in this way is never disagreeably 
 salt, and will keep for a long time. 
 
 Brawn Pichle. 
 
 Two quarts of bran put into two gallons of pump water, 
 and boiled two hours, with a handful of bay salt; then strain 
 through a sieve into a pan, sufficiently large to contain a collar 
 ol brawn, in which it may he kept till used. 
 
 N. B. Keep both real and mock brawn cou*uar>i/\ m <<■,»> 
 pickle, except when using. 
 
i 18 
 
 CURING MEAT, 
 
 Another way.-—Boil a quarter of a peck of wheat-bran, a 
 sprig of bay, and a sprig of rosemary, in two gallons ot water, 
 with four ounces of salt in it, for half an hour. Strain it, 
 and let it get cold. 
 
 Mock Brawn , 
 
 Take the maw of a large hog, cleanse it well; fill and stuff 
 it with one pig’s cheek, three pigs’ tongues, the gristle of 
 three neats’ feet boiled, four pigs’ ears, two pound of lean, 
 and two pound of fat of pork ; all cut in large square pieces, 
 with the skin of the pork; season it with one ounce of ground 
 allspice, two ounces of pepper, and a quarter of a pound of 
 salt; when stuffed, roll it up in a cloth, and tie it tight with 
 tape; let it boil four hours, and when done, tighten the cloth, 
 and hang it with a large weight attached to it till cold; it 
 nay be put in a round press, the size of brawn. 
 
 N. B. It may be kept in brawn pickle any length of time. 
 See brawn pickle. 
 
 Another way.—Boil a pair of neat’s feet very tender; take 
 the meat off, and have ready the belly-piece of pork, salted 
 with common salt and saltpetre for a week. Boil this almost 
 enough ; take out the bones, and roll the feet and the pork 
 together. Then roll it very tight with a strong cloth and 
 coarse tape. Boil it till very tender, then hang it up in the 
 cloth till cold ; after which keep it in a sousing liquor as is 
 directed in the above article. 
 
 Pig's Head for eating Cold. 
 
 Split and boil a pig’s head, with the tongue, three houis, 
 till quite tender; take out all the bones, lay the sides flat on a 
 cloth to join ; season it all over, with one ounce of pepper, 
 two ounces of salt, and half an ounce of allspice ground; roll 
 it up, and tie in the cloth tight, while hot, with tape; put on 
 it a good weight, and let it stand till cold. 
 
 To collar Pig's Head. 
 
 Scour the head and ears nicely; take off the hair and 
 snout, and take out the eyes and the brain; lay it into water 
 one night; then drain, salt it extremely well with corm*'*.:?* 
 
rONGUES, HAMS, 
 
 419 
 
 and saltpetre, and let it lie five days. Roil it enough tc 
 take out the bones; then lay it on a dresser, turning the 
 thick end of one side of the head towards the thin end of the 
 other to make the roll of equal size; sprinkle it well with salt 
 and white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and if you ap¬ 
 prove, put the pig’s feet round the outside when boned, or 
 the thin parts of two cow-heels. Put it into a cloth, bind 
 with a broad tape, and boil it till quite tender; then put a 
 food weight upon it, and don’t take off the covering till cold. 
 
 If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it longer, and 
 ^et the proportion of saltpetre be greater, and put in also some 
 pieces of lean pork; and then cover it with cow-heel to look 
 like the horn. 
 
 Ihis may be kept either in or out of pickle, of salt and 
 water boiled, with vinegar; and is a very convenierft thing to 
 have in the house. 
 
 If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either with or without 
 butter. 
 
 Another way.—First boil the cheeks tender, and pull out 
 all the bones; season with a good deal of salt. Then lav 
 the thin end of one cheek to the thick end of the other with 
 the tongue in the middle, roll them up in a cloth, and tie the 
 cloth tight at each end. 1 hen bind hard on the collar five 
 or six yards of coarse wide tape, boil it till quite tender; whqp 
 coni, lake off the tape and cloth ; and put it in brawn pickle 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 T he Dimple preparations of this kind in daily use to plain 
 families have already engaged our attention, chap. v„ nart i.. Wi 
 proceed now to give directions for such as are more elaborate 
 
p.<.srnv. 
 
 PAI 
 
 and expensive. The general rules will, however, -ipniy 
 
 e juallv well in both cases, they need not theveiore be iv~ 
 peated. 
 
 PUDDINGS. 
 
 Rich Plum Pudding. 
 
 One pound of fine flour dried, one pound of currants very 
 carefully washed, picked, and dried before the fire; one pound 
 of raisins stoned and chopped, one pound of beef suet or mar¬ 
 row shred very fine, eight eggs, the whites and yelks beaten 
 long and separately, and well mixed with the flour, before any 
 other ingredients are added; two ounces of candied citron 
 oh red fine, two ounces of almonds blanched and cut in pieces, 
 a nutmeg and a little ginger, a glass of brandy ; if not suffi¬ 
 ciently moist, use a little either new milk or water,—the less the 
 better of either;—the milk will make it eat more solid ; but the 
 water will make it more light and hollow. Let it boil four 
 hours, and serve with sugar sifted over, and wine sauce. 
 
 Another equally good. 
 
 Take four ounces of pounded pudding biscuit, and two 
 ounces of the best flour, or good common biscuit, half a pound 
 of bloom or muscatel raisins stoned, the same quantity of 
 fresh Zante currants picked and plumped, and Haifa pound of 
 suet stripped of skins and filaments, and shred ; a small tea¬ 
 spoonful of nutmeg grated, a quarter of a pound of fine beat 
 sugar, a drachm of pounded cinnamon, and two blades of 
 mace; three ounces of candied lemon, orange, and citron 
 sliced, and two ounces of blanched almonds roughly chopped. 
 Beat four eggs well, and put to them a little sweet milk, a 
 glass of white wine or brandy, and then mix in the flour and 
 aii the ingredients. Ti» up the pudding firm, and boil it fei 
 tour hours, keeping up the boil, and turning the doth. Serve 
 pudding sauce. 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 42) 
 
 Another way.—Take one pound of suet, chopped; one 
 pound of currants; one pound of raisins, stoned; two ounces 
 of candied orange and lemon-peel, cut fine; one pound of 
 bread crumbs; three ounces of sugar: one lemon-peel 5 grated; 
 a tea-spoonful of pounded cinnamon, mace, and clove, all to¬ 
 gether; mix these ingredients up, with six whole eggs, and 
 half a glass of brandy; boil in a mould buttered and floured, 
 •' a cloth, one hour and a half; or it may be baked : serve 
 vine sauce with it. 
 
 Another way.—Having carefully stoned a pound of the 
 nest jar raisins, well washed and picked, the same quantity of 
 ■ine and newest currants, chopped or minced small, a pound 
 »f the freshest beef suet, and blanched and pounded two 
 ounces of almonds; mix them in a pound each of sifted flour 
 nid grated bread crumbs; adding two ounces of candied citron, 
 •range and lemon peel, half a grated nutmeg, a blade or two 
 f beaten mace, a quarter of a pound of powdered loaf sugar, 
 and a very little salt. Then moisten the whole with ten 
 ‘/eaten eggs, about half a pint of cream, a glass or two of 
 mountain wine, and half a gill of brandy, to make it of a good 
 consistency; but it must by no means be thin, as the fruit 
 vould then settle at the bottom. Being thus made, it may 
 '•ither be put into a dish or mould, and well baked; or, as is 
 neie generally the case, carefully tied up in a cloth, boiled at 
 east tour hours, and served up with melted butter, in mountain 
 vine, and scraped sugar over it. 
 
 Marrow Pudding. 
 
 Grate as much bread as will fill a large breakfast cup 
 quite full. Put it into a jug, and pour nearly a quart of 
 boiling sweet milk or thin cream over it, and let it swell and 
 soak, while you shred half a pound of marrow or suet, and 
 beat up four large or six small eggs. Have two ounces of 
 raisins stoned, and two ounces of currants picked and plumped. 
 Sweeten the pudding to taste, and season it with a very little 
 grated nutmeg, and a tea-spooonful of cinnamon in powder. 
 Cover a stoneware flat dish on the edge with stripes of puff 
 paste, and mark it neatly as leaves. Bake the pudding in 
 this dish, or plainly in a deep dkh. 
 
PASTItr. 
 
 ■tei 2 
 
 A few almonds, or a little candied citron, or otange peel 
 may be put to this pudding for variety. A little finely sifted 
 sugar may be strewed on the top, or a few blanched almonds 
 sliced may be stuck round it. In a Hat dish twenty-five 
 minutes will bake it. It will require half an hour in a deep 
 dish; or it may be boiled in a pudding shape. This pud¬ 
 ding will keep and cut in firm slices, which may be broiled oi 
 heated in a Dutch oven. 
 
 Another way.—Boil with a quart of milk, one lemon-peel, 
 and a tea-spoonful of cinnamon, and strain it; add half a 
 pound of chopped marrow, a quarter of a pound of currants, a 
 quarter of a pound of citron, sliced, half a nutmeg grated, 
 one glass of brandy, and twelve sp' nge biscuits; when the 
 mixture is cold, add eight yelks and three whites of eggs; 
 bake it in a dish lined with tart paste. 
 
 Ayres s Pudding. 
 
 Take one pound of good beef suet shred very fine, add 
 one pound of raisins, stoned and chopped, but not too small; 
 beat fine five eggs with a little brandy, a little salt and nut¬ 
 meg, three large spoonfuls of the finest flour dried, and three 
 of fine loaf sugar sifted ; mix all well together, tie it up se¬ 
 curely, and boil it four hours; pour over it melted butter, and 
 strew fine sugar. 
 
 Rusk Pudding. 
 
 According to the size of the dish you want to fill, take as 
 many rusks* as will barely half fill it, butter the dish, spread 
 the rusks pretty thickly with butter or marrow, and lay them 
 in the dish; strew over each layer fine loaf sugar sifted, cur¬ 
 rants, citron, lemon and orange peel shred fine, a few Jordan 
 almonds blanched, nutmeg, and pow r dered cinnamon. Pour 
 over the whole a rich unboiled custard, in the proportion of 
 one pint of new milk; a quarter of a pint of cream, three 
 
 • The best risks in England, and which are exported to all parts <>! 
 the world, are made at Lemann’s long established shop in Threadne<dle 
 Street, London ; this is chiefly important to be known by those win list 
 rusks, tops and bottoms, or b scttit powder as food for infants. 
 
pujoniN'is. 
 
 423 
 
 ’S'hoie eggs ami three yelks, and a spoonful of ratify; let it 
 steep at ieast two hours, (as much longer as the weather will 
 admit,) then bake in a moderate oven till it has assumed a tine 
 pale brown colour, which will be in half or three quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 New College Puddings . 
 
 r ake the crumb of a twopenny white loaf with eio-ht 
 Naples biscuits grated fine, add thereto a handful of good 
 beef suet or marrow chopped very fine; six or eight ounces of 
 eurrants, and two of sweatmeats shred very fine; one ounce 
 of grated lump sugar; a little nutmeg; one spoonful of 
 orange flower water or brandy; mix these ingredients into a 
 very still paste with the yelks of two eggs, and make them up 
 in balls or small flat cakes; a very small dust of flour must be 
 used to prevent their sticking; but the less the better. Fry 
 them in butrter over a gentle fire of a fine light brown, strew 
 loaf sugar over them and serve with wine sauce. 
 
 Another way.—Take the crumbs of four penny loaves, add 
 thereto one pound of good beef suet shred small; one pound 
 of currants; some nutmeg; a little salt; four ounces of fine 
 sugar ; five eggs well beaten with a little sack or brandy, or 
 you may put a little rose water if you please, and what cream 
 will temper it into a very stiff paste, then make it up in little 
 puddings the shape of an egg, but longer: this quantity will 
 make about eighteen. Fry them in half a pound of butter; 
 pour over them melted butter and strew sifted sugar. 
 
 Another way.— 1 he crumb of four penny loaves: two 
 biscuits; three-quarters of a pound of beef suet; half a pound 
 of currants; candied orange and lemon peel, two ounces; 
 sweeten to taste with loaf sugar, add a little brandy, grated 
 nutmeg, and as many eggs as will mix it into a stiff paste: 
 fry and serve as above. 
 
 N. B. These delicious little puddings are often served as 
 a garnish round a quaking or custard pudding. 
 
 They are sometimes fried in lard, which, if p^Tectly fresn 
 and sweet, answers equally well. 
 
 They are sometimes baked in very small rrrty pins well 
 
%'! * 
 
 PA.STKY. 
 
 ♦ 
 
 buttered, or on a butteicd plate, made up in the usual shape 
 ot balls, and laid at such a distance as to prevent their run. 
 rung into one another. 
 
 Several different recipes for making New College pudding*' 
 are in circulation; but the preference is given to the above 
 First, as having been received from two of the most celebrated 
 college cooks in the last and present centuries; and secondly, 
 as having been repeatedly adopted by the writer with great 
 success and approbation. They now first appear in print. 
 
 Mother Eve's Pudding. 
 
 Would ton make a good pudding, pray mind what you're 
 naught— 
 
 Take two penn’orth of eggs, when they’re twelve So tin 
 groat, 
 
 Six ounces of bread, (let Mill eat the crust,) 
 
 The crumb must be grated as fine as the dust. 
 
 Six ounces of flour you may add if you please, 
 
 Stir it smooth as a paste with the eggs by degrees; 
 
 Then of that same fruit which Eve once did cozen. 
 
 Pared and well chopped, take at least half a dozen. 
 
 Six ounces of plumbs from the stones you must sort. 
 
 Lest they break all your teeth and spoil all your sport; 
 
 Six ounces of currants, be sure wash them clean. 
 
 And six ounces of suet shred fine and stir in; 
 
 Some lemon or citron peel add if you choose, 
 
 Some people prefer it, but others refuse. 
 
 Six ounces of sugar wont make it too sweet, 
 
 And some salt and some nutmeg the whole will complete. 
 
 Let it boil for six hours without any flutter, 
 
 Nor is it quite finished without melted butter. 
 
 The Prince of Plum-puddings. 
 
 Take the foot of a kine 
 And chop very fine, 
 
 And when ’tis well ground 
 Add currants one pound. 
 
 Eight ounces of bread 
 through a colander snteid; 
 
PUDDING®. 
 
 425 
 
 Six ounces of suet* 
 
 And a nutmeg add to it* 
 
 Eight eggs beaten thin, 
 
 I would have you put in; 
 
 To this add some salt, 
 
 And ’twill be without fault. 
 
 With sugar one handful; 
 
 ’Twill all make a panful. 
 
 Three hours you must boil it— 
 
 One more would not spoil it. 
 
 When dished for the table 
 You may add, if you’re able, 
 
 Some butter and wine; 
 
 And you’ll say, ’twill outshine 
 All the puddings in England, 
 
 Wherever you dine. 
 
 A grateful Pudding. 
 
 Take fine flour and grated bread, of each an equal quail* 
 tity, four whole eggs and four yelks well beaten—well sweeten 
 with fine loaf sugar, as much cream as will make the whole 
 the thickness of batter, then add raisins of the sun, stoned, 
 and currants, of each one pound, more or less according to the 
 quantity of the pudding. Nutmeg, cinnamon, candied-peel 
 at pleasure; bake it three quarters of an hour in a dish well 
 buttered; when done, grate fine sugar over it, and serve it 
 with wine sauce, or sugar and lemon juice. 
 
 Another way.—Take two twopenny white loaves, pare off 
 the crust; slice them into a dish; put to them a quart or 
 three pints of cream, set the dish over a chafing dish of char¬ 
 coal till the bread grows dryish, then stir in a good piece of 
 butter and gradually mix in the yelks of half a dozen eggs 
 and the whites of three, well beaten with rose water, and sugar, 
 and some nutmeg grated; mix all well together, and when 
 baked strew fine sugar over. 
 
 Neafs Foot , or Cow-heel Pudding. 
 
 Cut the gristly part of a cow*s heel into small dice; take 
 the same quantity of currants, raisins, chopped suet, and 
 
 a i 
 
426 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 mi mbs of bread; one ounce of sugar, a spoonful of allspice, 
 mace, and cinnamon in powder; one lemon peel grated, six 
 whole eggs, and one glass of brandy; mix these well together; 
 put it into a mould, buttered and floured; or tie it in a cloth, 
 and boil it one hour and a half; serve wine sauce with it. 
 
 Duke of Cumberland’s Pudding. 
 
 Mix in equal proportions, grated bread, shred suet, chopped 
 apples, loaf sugar, and cleaned currants, with six eggs well 
 beat. Season with the grate of a lemon, half a nutmeg, a 
 little salt, and two ounces of candied citron, lemon, and orange 
 peel. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, and when they have 
 stood for an hour to amalgamate, put the mixture into a but¬ 
 tered mould. Tie several folds of a floured cloth over it, and 
 boil for two hours and a half. 
 
 Northumberland Puddings. 
 
 Make a thick batter by boiling and sweetening milk and 
 flour. When cold and firm, mash it up, and add to it four 
 ounces of melted butter, the same weight of currants, two 
 ounces of candied lemon, and orange peel, sliced, and a little 
 brandy if liked. Butter tea-cups, and bake the puddings in 
 them for fifteen minutes. Turn them out on a dish, and 
 pour wine sauce over them if to be eat hot. If to make a 
 cold ornamental supper dish omit the wine sauce. 
 
 Dutch Pudding , or Albany Cake. 
 
 Mix two pounds or rather less of good flour with a pound 
 of butter melted in half a pint of milk. Add to this the 
 whites and yelks of eight eggs separately well beaten, half a 
 pound of fine sifted sugar, a pound of cleaned currants, and a 
 few chopped almonds, or a little candied orange peel sliced 
 fine. Put to this four spoonfuls of yeast. Cover it up for 
 an hour or two, and bake it for an hour in a wide flattish 
 dish. When cold it eats well as a cake. 
 
 To make a Quaking Pudding. 
 
 Take two penny loaves, cut off the crust, slice the crumb 
 thin and pour over it what boiling milk will wet it; frhen 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 42? 
 
 thoroughly soaked, put in six eggs well beaten with a little 
 brandy and rose water if you please : add two Dunces of fine 
 sugar, a little nutmeg, tie it up securely, and boil one hour. 
 
 Another way.—Boil some large mace, sliced nutmeg and 
 ginger, laurel leaves, in a quart of sweet cream; then add 
 almonds beaten in rose water, four ounces ; eight eggs—four 
 whites; strain all these together, mingle with a sufficient quan¬ 
 tity of grated bread, sweeten to taste with loaf sugar. Add a 
 pinch of salt, tie it very tight in a pudding cloth, well buttered; 
 put it into fast boiling water and boil it one hour; or it may 
 be baked; serve with wine sauce, or with melted butter, sugar 
 and verjuice, or lemon juice. 
 
 Another way.—Scald a quart of cream, and when nearly 
 cold, add to it four eggs well beaten, a spoonful and a half of 
 flour, some nutmeg, and sugar. Tie all close in a buttered 
 cloth, and let it boil an hour. Turn it out carefully, to 
 avoid cracking. Serve with melted butter, wine, and sugar. 
 
 A French Pudding. 
 
 Take the crumb of two small loaves, cut it into dice; 
 raisins of the sun, one pound; beef suet chopped very fine, 
 one pound; sugar, five or six ounces; eighteen or twenty 
 pretty large lumps of marrow; one dozen dates sliced; one 
 pint of cream; six eggs beaten in it, flavour with salt, nutmeg, 
 cloves, and mace. Butter a dish, pare and slice four pippin? 
 lay at the bottom, pour the pudding over and bake. 
 
 An Italian Pudding. 
 
 Take a pint of cream, and slice therein as much French 
 roll as will make it thick, beat up five eggs, butter the bottom 
 of a dish, slice eight pippin/into it, and add thereto some 
 orange peel, sugar, and half a pint of port wine. Pour in 
 the cream, bread, and eggs, lay a puff-paste over the dish, and 
 bake it half an hour. 
 
 A rich Bread Pudding. 
 
 Simmer two quarts of cream with salt, sugar, nutmeg, cin¬ 
 namon, cloves, and mace; when it boils, slice in the crusts of 
 four French rolls, or the whole of two. When the rolls have 
 soaked up the cream, press through a colander, add twelve 
 
429 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 eggs, leaving out four whites; sweeten witk loaf sugar; mix 
 well together, put it in a buttered bason ; tie over securely and 
 boil one hour. 
 
 Brown Bread Pudding. 
 
 Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto of currants, 
 ditto of shred suet, sugar and nutmeg; mix with four eggs, a 
 spoonful of brandy, and two spoonfuls of cream ; boil in a 
 cloth or basin that* exactly holds it, three or four hours. 
 
 Nelson Puddings. 
 
 Put into a Dutch oven six small cakes called Nelson- 
 balls, or rice cakes made in small tea-cups. When quite hot, 
 pour over them boiling melted butter, white wine, and sugar; 
 and serve. 
 
 Dutch Pudding. 
 
 Boil a pint and a half of milk, slice six ounces of bread, 
 pour the milk over, cover it close, when almost cold beat it 
 fine; add four ounces of butter, five eggs, a quarter of a 
 pound of loaf sugar, and a little nutmeg. 
 
 If wanted richer, put a quart of milk, and eight ounces of 
 butter to the same quantity of bread. 
 
 A Green Pudding. 
 
 Of mutton and beef suet shred very small, three quarters 
 of a pound each; bread crumbs a pound and a half; mix with 
 a sufficient quantity of cream, and the yelks of four and whites 
 of two eggs well beaten. Parsley chopped fine one handful; 
 juice of spinach, one pint; season with salt, sweeten with loaf- 
 sugar to taste : add grated nutmeg and one pound of currants 
 with a little flour to bind it; mix the ingredients well toge¬ 
 ther, roll it up in a sheep’s caul and bake. 
 
 A Lent Pudding. 
 
 Simmer a quart of cream with two or three blades of mace, 
 take it off the fire and add the yelks of eight eggs and whites 
 of four. Raisins stoned and slit half a pound; sugar half a 
 pound; butter a quarter of a pound: stir all well together; 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 429 
 
 dip a cloth in milk, spread it with butter, strew with flour, 
 put in the pudding, tie it up close and boil three quarters of 
 an hour. Serve with melted butter and sugar. 
 
 Noddy Puddings. 
 
 Beat blanched almonds very fine, add one or two spoonfuls 
 of rose water or cream, strain the whole through a sieve, boil 
 it, and set it by to cool. Then thicken it with beaten eggs, 
 sweeten with fine lump sugar dissolved in rose water, and tie 
 it up in different bags; boil them half an hour in a small sauce¬ 
 pan, and melt butter with rose water and sugar for the sauce. 
 These curious puddings may be coloured with spinach juice, 
 saffron, beet, or other articles. 
 
 A very delicious Pudding , either to hake or boil. 
 
 Having beat one pound of almonds very fine with rose 
 water and cream, add the yelks of five and whites of two eggs, 
 one pound of beef suet shred very fine, make it as thin as 
 batter for fritters, mixing it with cream; season with salt, 
 sugar, and mace; bake or boil an hour, and serve with sugar 
 strewed over it. 
 
 A Rice or Millet-seed Pudding. 
 
 Wash well in several waters, and pick, half a pound of the 
 best Carolina rice. Boil it slowly in a little water for a few 
 minutes, and then put a pint and a half of sweet milk to it, 
 with a roll of lemon peel. Stir it constantly to prevent it 
 from sticking. When quite soft pour it into a dish, and mix 
 two ounces of fresh butter, or of nicely shred suet with it; 
 and when cold three or four beat eggs; sugar to taste, and a 
 seasoning of cinnamon or nutmeg. Cover the edges of a flat 
 pie dish with paste, cut into leaves; and bake the pudding in 
 it. A few currants may be put to it. This pudding may be 
 thinned with milk and boiled in a cloth; or it may, allowing 
 a double quantity of suet, be filled into skins and so boiled. 
 Chopped apples, stoned prunes, &c. may be put to this pud¬ 
 ding; and it may be made of ground instead of whole rice. 
 When candied peel is used this takes the name of a Patns 
 Pudding. 
 
430 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 Another way.—Boil half a pound of rice in milk till very 
 tender and thick; when cold add to it three quarters of a pound 
 of butter broken in bits ; three quarters of a pound of cur¬ 
 rants; a little nutmeg and salt; three grated biscuits, or an 
 equal quantity of French bread ; five eggs beaten with a little 
 sack or brandy; half a pound of fine sugar, one ounce each of 
 candied citron and lemon peel, or not, as most approved. 
 Have a dish with puff paste on which lay the pudding, and cut 
 out a Florentine pattern of puff paste for the lid; an hour will 
 bake it. Millet seed, which makes a very delicious pudding, 
 may be prepared exactly in the same way. 
 
 Small Rice Puddings. 
 
 Prepare four ounces of rice as above directed, and put to it 
 three ounces of fresh butter, and half a pint of cream. When 
 cold, mix in sugar to taste, and six well-beat yelks of eggs, 
 with three whites, grated lemon peel, and a little cinnamon. 
 Butter small cups, and putting into each a few slices of can¬ 
 died citron, fill very nearly full, and bake them. Dish anti 
 serve them hot with sweet sauce in a boat. 
 
 A Lemon or Orange Pudding. 
 
 Boil very tender, in two or three waters, the thinly shaved 
 rind of two lemons or Seville oranges; then beat them fine in 
 a mortar with the pulp of the lemons or oranges perfectly freed 
 from skin and kernels, and add to it three quarters of a pound 
 of loaf sugar sifted ; four biscuits grated; the yelks of ten 
 eggs beaten with a little of the best brandy, one ounce of 
 citron, and one ounce of lemon peel shred fine; when all is 
 mixed stir it into half a pound of clarified butter, and keep it 
 stirring one way till it is cold. Then bake it in a puff paste 
 in the same manner as the rice or millet pudding. 
 
 Another way.—Beat up the yelks of four eggs with four 
 ounces of lump sugar, rub thereto the rind of a lemon, then 
 peel the same, and beat it in a mortar, with the juice of a 
 large one. Mix the whole with four or five ounces of warmed 
 butter. Lay a crust in a shallow dish, notch the edges, and 
 put in the pudding, but when baked, turn it out into another 
 for the table, 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 43 J 
 
 A Cabbage Pudding. 
 
 To three quarters of pound of good beef suet or marrow 
 shred fine, add an equal quantity of sugar and currants. Slice 
 thin the crumb of two penny loaves, and having laid a puff paste 
 at the bottom of your dish, puf a layer of the suet, currants, 
 and sugar, then a layer of bread, and so on till the dish is full. 
 Then beat five or six eggs with a little brandy and a pint and 
 a half of cream, and pour over. You may lay a Florentine 
 cover of paste, or bake it without. 
 
 Almond Puddings. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of blanched Jordan almonds, 
 pounded fine; four whole eggs; the whites of two; a pint of 
 cream, and a quarter of a pound of butter melted in it; two 
 spoonfuls of flour; and two ounces of sugar; mix these by 
 degrees in the cream when cold: bake in a dish lined with 
 tart paste round it. Two or three bitter almonds may be 
 added to the other almonds. 
 
 Another way.—Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, with 
 four or five bitter ones, a little white wine, the yelks of six 
 eggs, the peel of two lemons grated, six ounces of butter, 
 about a quart of cream, and the juice of a lemon. Bake it 
 half an hour, with paste round the dish. 
 
 Another way.—Pound eight ounces of almonds with a few 
 bitter ones, in a spoonful of water, then mix it with four 
 ounces of butter warmed, the yelks of four, and the whites 
 of two eggs, sugar, two spoonfuls of cream, and one of 
 brandy. Bake it in buttered cups as before, and serve with 
 pudding sauce. 
 
 Cream Pudding. 
 
 Take two spoonfuls of flour, one ounce of sugar; mix 
 them with a pint of cream, and eight yelks of eggs; boi! or 
 steam it, in a basin, tied over with a cloth, three quarters of 
 an hour. 
 
 # 
 
 Custard Pudding. 
 
 Mix a spoonful of flour with a pint of cream; boil them 
 
4S2 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 together; when cold add five yelks and two whites of egg s, 
 one ounce of sugar, and half a nutmeg grated; boil it in a 
 basin, buttered and floured, three quarters of an hour; serve 
 wine sauce. 
 
 Another way.—Take a pint of cream, mix two or three 
 spoonfuls of it with one of fine flour, and set the rest o ,r er the 
 fire. When it has boiled, take it off, and stir into it the 
 cold cream and flour. While the whole is cooling, beat up 
 five yelks of eggs, with two of the whites, stir in a little salt, 
 some grated nutmeg, a glass of white wine, and sugar. But¬ 
 ter a wooden bowl, pour therein the custard, tie a cloth over 
 it, and let it boil an hour. When done, turn the pudding 
 into a dish, pour over it melted butter, either plain, or mixed 
 with orange flower water, sugar, and a spoonful of white 
 wine. 
 
 Macaroon Custard Pudding. 
 
 Fill the bottom of a dish with macaroons, soak them with 
 white wine, and pour over them a custard made of twenty 
 eggs, a pint and a half of cream, and a pint of new milk; with 
 the addition of such sweetmeats as may be agreeable. The 
 dish may be lined with puff-paste, but care must be taken 
 that it is not baked too much. 
 
 Pancake Pudding. 
 
 Take a quart of milk, four eggs, and two large spoonfuls 
 of flour, with some salt, and grated ginger. Beat all up into 
 a smooth batter, and put it into a buttered dish. W hen 
 baked, pour over it melted butter. 
 
 Carrot Pudding. 
 
 Grate half a pound of the best part of a raw carrot, and 
 double the quantity of bread: mix eight beaten yelks of eggs, 
 and four of the whites, with half a pint of new milk, and melt 
 half a pound of fresh butter, with half a pint of white wine, 
 three spoonfuls of orange-flower water, a grated nutmeg, and 
 sugar. Stir the whole, and if too thick, add moie milk. 
 Lay a puff-paste over the dish, and bake it an fiour. Serve 
 it with grated sugar. This puddmg will be more delicious 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 4SS 
 
 by substituting Naples biscuit and cream for the bread and 
 m-Tic, and by adding a glass of ratafia to the orange-flower 
 water. Some boil the carrot, but thereby the saccharine vir¬ 
 tue is lost. 
 
 Amber Pudding. 
 
 Lay a pound of fresh butter in a stew-pan, with three- 
 quarters of a pound of lump sugar finely pounded; melt the 
 butter, and mix the whole well; then add the yelks of fifteen 
 eggs beaten, and as much candied orange as will give it a 
 colour and flavour, first reducing it to paste. Line the dish 
 with a fine crust, and cover it as you would a pie. Bake it 
 in a slow oven. It is equally good cold or hot. 
 
 Muffin or Cabinet Pudding. 
 
 Cut three muffins in two; pour a pint and a half of boiling 
 milk over them; let them stand till cold; make a custard of 
 eight yelks and four whole eggs, beat up with one pint of 
 cream and one glass of brandy, one nutmeg, a quarter of a 
 pound of sugar, and one lemon-peel, grated; butter a mould, 
 place some dried cherries in it according to fancy; lay a layer 
 of muffin, drained, and dried cherries and custard to cover, 
 alternately, till the mould is full; boil it in a stew-pan, with a 
 little water for the mould to stand in, one hour and a half; * 
 serve wine sauce with it. 
 
 N. B. French plum pudding is made in the same way. 
 
 Another way.—Boil a small piece of lemon peel, a little 
 cinnamon, and sugar, about eight or ten minutes in a pint of 
 • milk. Put three muffins into a large basin, strain over them 
 the milk, and when cold, mash the whole with a wooden, 
 spoon. Pound about an ounce of blanched almonds, mix 
 them well in, with about a quarter of a pound of any dry pre¬ 
 served fruit, as apricots, cherries, or plums, a little grated 
 nutmeg, three yelks of eggs beaten, and two table-spoonfuls 
 each of brandy and orange-flower water. Bake the pudding 
 with puff-paste round the dish, or you may boil it tied up in 
 a basin. Currants may 1*3 substituted for the preserved 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 m 
 
 Sago Pudding. 
 
 Boil a pint and a half of new milk, with four spoonfuis o? 
 ■ago washed and picked, lemon peel, cinnamon, and nutmeg. 
 Sweeten the whole to your taste, then mix therewith the 
 yelks of four eggs, lay a paste round the dish, and bake it in 
 a slow oven. 
 
 Macaroni Pudding . 
 
 Simmer one or two ounces of pipe macaroni in a pint of 
 milk, with a little lemon peel and cinnamon, till tender. Put 
 it into a dish, with milk, two or three yelks, and one white of 
 egg, sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful of peach water, and half a 
 glass of sweet wine. Lay a paste round the edges of the 
 dish. Orange marmalade, or raspberry jam, may be advan¬ 
 tageously substituted for almond water in giving the pudding 
 a flavour. 
 
 Tapioca Pudding. 
 
 Boil two ounces of tapioca tender in a pint of milk: beat 
 up five yelks, and one whole egg, with half a pint of cream ; 
 two ounces of butter, melted; two ounces of sugar; one 
 lemon-peel, grated; bake it half an hour in a dish lined with 
 tart paste. 
 
 Another way.—Boil four tablespoonfuls of tapioca in a 
 pint of new milk ; when thick pour it on about two ounces of 
 butter, stir till cold; add four eggs, two whites, brandy and 
 sugar to your taste. All to be well baked in a crust. 
 
 Vermicelli or Sago Pudding. 
 
 Boil two ounces of vermicelli in a pint and a half of milk to 
 a paste; when cold add one ounce of butter, melted in half a 
 pint of cream ; six yelks and two whole eggs, one lemon peel, 
 and half a nutmeg, grated; two spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water, and half an ounce of citron, cut; line a dish with paste * 
 bake it half an hour. 
 
 Ginger Pudding. 
 
 l*Ut twelve sponge biscu'ts, soaked in a pint of cream os 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 435 
 
 milk, ten j elks of eggs, two ounces of preserved wet ginger, 
 cut in small pieces, a spoonful of the ginger syrup, and two 
 ounces of butter, melted; bake it in a dish lined with tart 
 paste; or boil it in a mould, standing in a stew-pan, with a 
 little water. 
 
 Apricot Pudding . 
 
 Mash six ripe apricots through a sieve; add one pint of 
 cream, four ounces of sugar, four yelks an«d two whole eggs, 
 one ounce of butter, melted; mix all together, and bake in a 
 dish lined with puff paste, and glaze the top. 
 
 N. B. Apple, peach, and plum puddings are baked the 
 same way. 
 
 Another way.—Pour a pint of hot cream over what would 
 fill a cup of bread crumbs, and cover the jug. When cold 
 add the beat yelks of four eggs, a glass of white wine, and 
 beat sugar to taste. Scald till soft a dozen large apricots. 
 Cut them, take out the kernels, and pound the whole in a 
 mortar. Mix them with the other ingredients, and the beat 
 whites of two of the eggs, and bake in a dish with a paste 
 border. 
 
 Gooseberry Pudding. 
 
 Stew green gooseberries till they will pulp through a sieve. 
 When cold pulp them, and add to them six ounces of butter, 
 four ounces of sugar biscuit, pounded sugar to taste, four beat 
 eggs, and a glass of brandy. Bake in a dish with a paste 
 border. 
 
 Observation .— Excellent patties, and small pasties or turn¬ 
 overs may be made of this material. 
 
 An Apple Pudding. 
 
 Pare and grate three quarters of a pound of juicy apples. 
 Put to them six ounces of butter beat cold to a cream ; four 
 beat eggs, two pudding biscuits pounded, the rind of a lemon 
 grated, sugar to taste, a spoonful of brandy, and another of 
 orange flower water. Bake in a puff paste marked on the 
 border, and when done strew candied lemon or orange peel 
 sliced over the top. 
 
4S6 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 Observations .—Any good sweet biscuit may be used, of 
 bread crumbs. A little lemon juice or cider may be added if 
 the apples arc too mellow. 
 
 An excellent Apple Pudding. 
 
 Pare, core, and stew the apples in a small stew-pan with 
 cinnamon, two or three cloves, and the grated rind of a lemon. 
 When soft sweeten them to taste. Pulp them through a 
 sieve, and add the beat yelks of four eggs, a quarter of a 
 pound of butter, the grated peel and the juice of a lemon. 
 Mix the ingredients well, and bake for half an hour in a dish 
 
 O 
 
 lined with good puff paste. 
 
 A baked Apple Pudding. 
 
 Take one dozen of large apples and boil them as for sauce; 
 grate in four Naples biscuits and the rind of a lemon, squeeze 
 in the juice ; add four eggs with the whites; two ounces of 
 butter, sweeten to taste, and bake it with a thin puff paste at 
 the bottom of the dish. 
 
 A Welsh Pudding. 
 
 Melt half a pound of butter, by setting it in a basin floating 
 in hot water, and gradually mix with it the beat yelks of eight 
 eggs and the whites of four. Sweeten with fine pounded 
 sugar, and season with the grate of a lemon and a little nut¬ 
 meg. Bake in a dish with an ornamented paste border; and 
 when ready stick slices of citron or candied orange peel round 
 the edges. 
 
 A George Pudding. 
 
 Boil as for rice pudding four ounces of rice with a roll of 
 lemon peel. Mix this when drained dry with the pulp of a 
 dozen boiled, roasted, or baked apples, well beaten. Add the 
 beat yelks of five or six eggs, sugar to taste, and a little cin¬ 
 namon ; with two ounces of candied orange and citron sliced 
 fine. Line and butter a basin or mould with paste, (not too 
 thick,) and pour the pudding into it; then gently stir iu the 
 whites of the eggs beaten to a strong froth. Bake the pud- 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 437 
 
 ding for more than half an hour, and serve it with a hot sauce 
 made of wine, sugar, the yelk of an egg, and a bit of butter. 
 
 A Charlotte , or French Fruit Pudding 
 
 Or by whatever other name it be designated, may be made 
 of any kind of fruit; or of a mixture of such as blend well. 
 Cut even slices of bread of nearly half an inch in thickness. 
 Butter them richly on both sides, and cover the bottom and 
 sides of a buttered pan with them, cutting the bread into dice 
 or long slips, to make the whole join or dove-tail compactly. 
 Fill up the dish with apples, prepared and seasoned as for an 
 apple pie. For the top, soak slices of bread in melted butter 
 and milk. Cover the apples with these soaked slices. But¬ 
 ter them, and keep them pressed down while baking with a 
 plate, and weight placed on it. 
 
 Observation. —This, turned out of the shape when baked, 
 is called an apple loaf. Any kind of preserved or ripe fruit 
 may be used instead of apples. A few thin slices of bread 
 buttered thus makes a good crust to a rice or other pudding. 
 
 German Puddings or Puffs. 
 
 Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream, let it cool, 
 then mix two ounces of fine flour, and two ounces of sugar, 
 four yelks and two whites of eggs, and a little rose or orange 
 flower water. Bake it in small cups, buttered, half an hour, 
 and serve them up as soon as done, by turning them out, 
 and sending with them white wine and sugar. 
 
 A Transparent Pudding. 
 
 Beat up eight eggs, put them into a stew-pan, with half a 
 pound of sugar powdered fine, as much butter, and some 
 grated nutmeg. Place it over the fire, and keep it stirring 
 till it thickens. Set it in a basin to cool, lay a rich puff paste 
 round the edge of the dish, pour in the pudding, and bake 
 it in a moderate oven. Candied orange and citron may be 
 added. 
 
 Buttermilk Pudding. 
 
 Having warmed three quarts of new milk, turn it with a 
 
4.SS 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 quart of’ buttermilk. Drain the curd through a sieve, and 
 when dry, pound it in a marble mortar, with about half a 
 pound of loaf sugar, a lemon boiled tender, the crumb of a 
 roll grated, a nutmeg also grated, six bitter almonds, four 
 ounces of warm butter, a teacup-ful of cream, the yelks of five 
 and the whites of three eggs, a glass of wine, and another of 
 brandy. Bake in small cups or basins well buttered, and if 
 the bottom is not browned, use a salamander. Serve them 
 hot, and with pudding sauce. 
 
 Curd Puddings or Puffs. 
 
 Turn two quarts of milk, press out the whey, rub it through 
 a sieve, and mix with it four ounces of butter, the crumb of a 
 penny loaf, two spoonfuls of cream, the same quantity of white 
 wine, half a nutmeg, and a little sugar. Butter some small 
 cups or pattepans, and fill them three parts up, and bake them 
 carefully. Orange-flower water will be an improvement. 
 Serve with sweet sauce in a boat. 
 
 Boiled Curd Pudding. 
 
 Rub the curd of two gallons of milk, well drained, through 
 a sieve, mix it with six eggs, a little cream, two spoonfuls of 
 orange-flower water, half a nutmeg, three spoonfuls each of 
 flour and bread crumbs, half a pound of currants, and the 
 same of raisins cut and stoned. Boil an hour in a thick 
 floured cloth. 
 
 A Cowslip Pudding. 
 
 Take two quarts of cowslip pips, pound them small, with 
 half a pound of Naples biscuit grated, and three pints of 
 cream. Boil these together, then beat up ten eggs with a 
 little cream and rose water, sweeten to your taste, mix the 
 whole well, butter a dish, and pour the ingredients in, with a 
 little fine sugar over all, and bake it. 
 
 A Spinach Pudding. 
 
 Pick and clean a quarter of a peck of spinach, put it into 
 a saucepan, with a little salt, cover it close, and when it is 
 boiled tender, throw it into % sieve to drain, then chop it 
 
PUD01NGS. 
 
 is* 
 
 with a knife, beat up six eggs, mixed well with a quarter ot 
 a pint of cream, and a stale roll grated fine, a little nutmeg, 
 and four ounces of melted butter. Stir the whole, and put it 
 into the saucepan the spinach was boiled in, and keep on stir¬ 
 ring it till it begins to thicken, then wet and flour a cloth, tie 
 up the pudding, and boil it an hour. When done, turn it 
 out upon a dish. 
 
 Lady Sunderland!s Pudding. 
 
 Beat up the yelks of eight eggs, with the whites of three, 
 add thereto five spoonfuls of flour, and a grated nutmeg, and 
 put the whole into a pint of cream. Butter some small 
 basins, fill them half way, and bake them an hour. When 
 done, turn them out, and pour thereon melted butter, wine, 
 and sugar. 
 
 Barley Pudding. 
 
 Beat up the yelks of six eggs and the whites of three, 
 and put them into a quart of cream. Sweeten, and put in a 
 little orange flower or rose water, with a pound of melted 
 butter. Add six handfuls of French barley, that has been 
 boiled tender in milk. Butter a dish, pour it in, and send it 
 to the oven. 
 
 Citron Pudding. 
 
 Take a spoonful of flour, two ounces of sugar, nutmeg, and 
 half a pint of cream. Mix the whole with the yelks of three 
 eggs. Put it into cups, after adding three ounces of citron 
 cut very thin. Bake them in a quick oven, and when done, 
 turn them out on a dish. 
 
 Quince Pudding. 
 
 Scald the quinces till they are tender, pare them thin, 
 scrape off the pulp, mix it with plenty of sugar, and add a 
 little ginger and cinnamon. To one pint of cream, put three 
 or four yelks of eggs, and stir therein quinces till they are 
 sufficiently thick. Butter your dish, pour in the pudding, and 
 bake it. 
 
440 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 d Green Bean Pudding 
 
 Boil and blanch some old beans, then beat them in a nortar 
 with a little pepper, salt, cream, and the yelk of an egg. A 
 little spinach juice will give it a fine colour, but it will do with¬ 
 out. Boil it an hour in a basin, and pour parsley and butter 
 over it. Serve it with bacon. 
 
 Norfolk Dumplings. 
 
 Having made a good thick batter, as for pancakes, drop it 
 into a saucepan of boiling water. When the dumplings are 
 done, which will be in two or three minutes, throw them into 
 a sieve to drain, and then turn them into a dish. They are 
 to be eaten with sugar and butter. 
 
 Portugal Pudding. 
 
 Four table-spoonfuls of ground rice or semeliraa; one pint 
 of cream; three ounces of butter; mix all together in a stew- 
 pan, put it over the fire, stirring it' all the time till it boils, 
 when quite thick take it off the fire and add five eggs, the 
 whites of two; a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar; a little 
 salt and nutmeg, bake it an hour, then have another dish on 
 which put a layer of raspberry jam, then the pudding, then a 
 layer of apricot jam. 
 
 Pippin Pudding. 
 
 Coddle six pippins, in vine leaves, covered with water, so 
 gently that they may be rendered soft on the inside without 
 breaking the skins. Then peel them, and take the pulp 
 from the core with a tea-spoon. Press it through a colander, 
 add thereto two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, three eggs 
 beaten, a glass of sweet wine, a pint of scalded cream, sugar, 
 and nutmeg. Lay a thin puff-paste at the bottom, and round 
 the dish, add some lemon peel shreded fine, also orange peel 
 and citron in slices. Bake it nicely. 
 
 Rhubarb Pudding. 
 
 Peel and wash four dozen sticks of rhubarb, put them mto 
 
PUDDINGS. 
 
 #41 
 
 ® stew-pan, with tl e juice of a lemon, a little cinnamon, and 
 as much moist sugar as will sweeten it. Set it over a fire, 
 and reduce it to a marmalade, pass through a hair sieve, add 
 the yelks of four egg s, and one white, four ounces of butter, 
 half a nutmeg, and the peel of a lemon grated. Beat all 
 well together, line the inside of a dish with good paste, put in 
 the pudding, and bake it half an hour. 
 
 Tansey Pudding. 
 
 To four Naples biscuits grated, put as much boiling create 
 as will moisten them completely, after which, beat them with 
 the yelks of four eggs. Next take a very few chopped tansey 
 leaves, with enough of spinach to give the whole a green 
 colour. Mix all together, and when the cream is cold, add 
 thereto a little sugar, and set it over a slow fire till it grows 
 thick. Then take it off, and when cold, put it in a cloth well 
 buttered and floured. Tie it up close, let it boil three- 
 quarters of an hour, then take it up, put it in a basin, and set 
 it aside fifteen minutes, after which turn it out, and serve it 
 with white wine sauce in the dish. 
 
 A Chesnut Pudding. 
 
 Boil eighteen chesnuts in a saucepan of water, for a quarter 
 of an hour, then blanch and peel them, beat them in a mortar, 
 with a little orange-flower water and white wine, till they 
 make a fine paste. Beat and mix twelve eggs, and half the 
 whites, grate half a nutmeg, add thereto a little salt, with 
 three pints of cream, and half a pound of melted butter. 
 Sweeten to your taste, put it over the fire, and keep stirring 
 till it is thick; lay puff-paste over your dish, put in the pud¬ 
 ding, and bake it. 
 
 Brandy Pudding. 
 
 Line a mould with either jar raisins chopped and stoned* 
 or dried cherries, next with slices of French roll, then some 
 ratifia, or macaroons, after which, place in layers, fruit, rolls, 
 and cakes, in succession, till the mould is full, sprinkling over 
 the whole tw r o glasses of brandy. Beat up the yelks find 
 
 8 i 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 41* 
 
 whites of four eggs, then to a pint of milk or cream, lightly 
 sweetened, put half a nutmeg, and the rind of half a lemon, 
 both grated. Suffer the liquid to soak into the whole, then 
 flour a cloth, tie it over all, and boil one hour, keeping the 
 mould the right side upward. Serve with pudding sauce. 
 
 Cheese Pudding , a pretty side-dish. 
 
 Half a pound of cheese grated; two ounces of butter; four 
 eggs, a little cayenne, and if you choose a grate of nutmeg; 
 butter a dish, and bake twenty minutes. 
 
 t 
 
 CUSTARDS. 
 
 In a quart of cream slice half a nutmeg, a few blades ot 
 mace and ten or twelve cloves, simmer it a while with laurel 
 leaves if approved, then strain, and add by degrees to ten 
 eggs, five whites well beaten with a little sack or brandy, and 
 a pinch of salt and sugar to taste; when thoroughly mixed, 
 pour into the custard cups, and lightly grate nutmeg over the 
 top. 
 
 Another way.—Boil a quart of new milk with sugar, a bit 
 of cinnamon and lemon peel, and two bay leaves. Mix a spoon¬ 
 ful of rice flour with a little cold milk and the beat yelks of six 
 eggs. Stir the whole together into the boiling milk in a basin, 
 and then let it thicken over the fire, but not boil. Pour it 
 into a cold dish, and stir one way till cool. A very little ratafia, 
 curacoa, or peach water, may be put to flavour this custard. 
 Grate a little nutmeg, or strew a little ground cinnamon 
 lightly over the top of the cups. 
 
 Almond Custards. 
 
 Blanch and pound nearly half a pound of sweet, and half 
 tea ounce of bitter almonds, using a little rose water to prevent 
 fcbefci ilotii oiling. Sweeten a pint or rather more of boiling 
 sweet milk, and another of cream, and mix these gradually 
 
 
CUSTARDS. 
 
 448 
 
 with the yelks of six eggs, stirring them well as they cool. 
 Rub the almond paste through a sieve to this, and set it over 
 the fire to thicken, carefully stirring it. Pour it into a jug, 
 and stir till it cools. Instead of boiling, this may be baked 
 in cups, or in a dish with an elegantly cut paste border. 
 Flour of rice may be used instead of almonds; they are then 
 called rice custards. 
 
 Baked Custard. 
 
 Boil and sweeten with fine sugar, a pint of milk, and ano¬ 
 ther of cream, with a stick of cinnamon and a bit of lemon 
 peel. When cool mix in the beat yelks of four eggs. Pick 
 out the cinnamon and lemon peel, fill the cups, and bake for 
 ten minutes. 
 
 Lemon Custard. 
 
 Beat the yelks of eight eggs as well as if for a cake, till 
 they are a strong white cream. Mix gradually a pint of 
 boiling water and the grated rind and juice of two lemons. 
 Sweeten to taste, and stir this one way over the fire till it 
 thickens, but do not let it boil. Add a little wine and a 
 spoonful of brandy when the custard is almost ready. Stir 
 till cool. Serve in cups to be eaten cold. 
 
 Cheesecakes; as made at Magdalen and Oriel Colleges , 
 
 Oxford. 
 
 Take the curd of eight quarts of milk which, is run, not too 
 hot nor too cold, dry it well in a cloth, then work in three 
 quarters of a pound of butter, three grated biscuits, an equal 
 quantity of bread crumbs, a little salt, cloves, mace, and nut¬ 
 meg; ten eggs, five whites well beat with a little of the best 
 brandy, and a little rose water if you please; three quarters of 
 a pound of fine sugar, and a pint of good cream. Whey 
 well mixed work it with your hands through a coarse hair 
 sieve, then add one pound of currants washed and dried, and 
 having lined your pattepans with puff-paste, put in the meat 
 and lay bars or leaves of paste neatly cut, over the top. 
 
 Another way.—Mix with the beat curd of a quart and a 
 half of milk, half a pound of picked currants, white sugar to 
 
441 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 taste, and also pounded cinnamon, the beat yelks of four eggs, 
 the peel of a lemon grated off on lumps of the sugar used for 
 sweetening, half a pint of scalded cream, and a glass of brandy. 
 Mix the ingredients well, and fill pattepans lined with a thin 
 light puff paste nearly full. Twenty minutes will bake them 
 in a quick oven. They may be iced. 
 
 Almond Cheesecakes. 
 
 Blanch and pound a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds 
 and eight bitter ones, with a glass of common or orange-flower 
 water. Add four ounces of sugar, a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, and the whites of two eggs beat to a froth. Mix and 
 fill small pattepans; or, these almond cheesecakes may be 
 made by merely mixing a few beat almonds with common 
 cheesecakes. 
 
 Lemon or Orange Cheesecakes. 
 
 Grate the rind of three lemons, and squeeze their juice 
 over three sponge biscuits soaked in a glass of cream. Add 
 to this four ounces of fresh butter, four of fine sugar, and 
 three eggs well beaten. Season with cinnamon and nutmeg. 
 Mix the whole ingredients thoroughly, and bake in small pans 
 lined with a light thin paste. Lay a few long thin slices of 
 candied lemon peel upon the top. 
 
 Another way.—Take a large lemon or Seville orange, 
 grate the rind, squeeze the juice and sweeten to taste with 
 pounded lump sugar; a quarter of a pound of clarified butter 
 put in w’hen the thickness of cream: five eggs, only three 
 whites; one table-spoonful of brandy; mix well together, have 
 good puff paste, bake in pattepans. 
 
 
 PANCAKES. 
 
 Ayres's Pancakes. 
 
 Beat eight eggs with a little of the best brandy, and 
 throe quarters of a pound of finest flour; put in a little nutmeg 
 aod salt, and half a pound of butter melted in a pint of cream or 
 
PANCAKES. 
 
 445 
 
 
 rich milk. When almost cold, mix it altogether with two 
 ounces of fine sugar, and fry them in a dry pan without any 
 addition of fat. Let the pan be hot when you begin, fry them 
 only on one side. As you lay them on the dish, strew fine 
 sugar between each pancake, and when they are all done, turn 
 them upside down on another dish, that the brown side may 
 be uppermost. Sprinkle fine sugar over that, and garnish with 
 cut lemon. 
 
 Cream, Pancakes. 
 
 Mix the yelks of two eggs, with half a pint of cream, two 
 ounces of sugar, some beaten cinnamon, mace, and nutmeg. 
 Fry them as quick as possible, and grate over them some lump 
 sugar. 
 
 Rice Pancakes. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly, with a little water, and 
 when cold, mix with it a pint of cream, eight eggs, a small 
 matter of salt, and some nutmeg. Stir in eight ounces of 
 butter just warmed, and as much flour as will thicken the 
 batter. Fry them in very little lard or dripping. 
 
 Irish Pancakes. 
 
 Take a pint of cream, eight yelks and four whites of eggs, 
 beat them with some grated nutmeg and sugar, then melt 
 three ounces of butter in the cream, mix it with the rest, and 
 add thereto about half a pint of flour smoothed fine. Rub 
 the pan with some butter, and fry the cakes thin withou. 
 turning. Serve several one on another. 
 
 O 
 
 Wafer Pancakes. 
 
 Beat four eggs well, with two spoonfuls of fine flour, two 
 of cream, one of loaf sugar beat and sifted, and half a nut¬ 
 meg grated. After cleaning and rubbing your pan with 
 butter, pour in the batter, and make it as thin as a wafer, 
 fry it only on one side, put it in a dish, and grate se.gai 
 upon each. 
 
446 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 New England Pancakes. 
 
 Mix with a pint of cream, five spoonfuls of fine flour, seven 
 yelks, and four whites of eggs, and a little salt. Fry them 
 verv thin in fresh butter, strewing between every two pan¬ 
 cakes sugar and powdered cinnamon. Six or eight should be 
 sent to table at once. 
 
 Pink-coloured Pancakes. 
 
 Boil till tender a large beet-root, and then bruise it in a 
 marble mortar. Put to it the yelks of four eggs, two spoon¬ 
 fuls of flour, three of cream, half a grated nutmeg, some 
 sugar, and a glass of brandy. Mix these ingredients tho¬ 
 roughly, fry them well, and serve up the pancakes, with a 
 garnish of green sweatmeats, preserved apricots, or sprigs of 
 myrtle. 
 
 Plain Fritters. 
 
 These may be made of the same kind of batter as pan¬ 
 cakes, by pouring a small quantity into the pan;—or by grating 
 the crumb of a penny loaf, and putting it into a pint of milk; 
 mix it smooth, and when cold, add the yelks of five eggs, 
 three ounces of sifted sugar, and some grated nutmeg. Fry 
 them, and when done, pour thereon melted butter, wine, and 
 sugar. 
 
 Custard Fritters. 
 
 Beat up the yelks of eight eggs, with one spoonful of flour, 
 half a nutmeg, salt, and a glass of brandy, then put in a pint 
 of cream, sweeten, and bake it in a small dish. When cold, 
 cut it into quarters, and dip them in batter, made of half a 
 pint of cream, a quarter of a pint of milk, four eggs, a little 
 flour, and a small quantity of grated ginger. Fry the fritters, 
 and when done, strew over them some grated sugar. 
 
 Apple Fritters. 
 
 Fz. re, coie, and cut in slices some large apples, then take 
 harf a pint of ale, and two eggs, beat in as much flour as will 
 
FRITTERS. 
 
 447 
 
 give it a consistence rather thicker than that of a common 
 pudding. Add nutmeg and sugar, and let the whole stand 
 three or four minutes to rise. Then dip the slices of applo 
 into the batter, fry them crisp, and serve them up, with sugar 
 grated over them, and wine sauce in a boat. 
 
 •4 
 
 Rice Fritters. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk till it is pretty 
 thick. Mix with it a pint of cream, four eggs, a little suo-ar, 
 cinnamon, and nutmeg, six ounces of currants, some salt, and 
 as much flour as will make a thick batter. Fry the fritters in 
 boiling lard, and give them the form of little cakes. Send 
 them up with sugar and butter. 
 
 Another way.—Boil a quarter of a pound of rice in milk, 
 tender; strain it dry, mix it with two eggs, one spoonful of 
 flour, and one ounce of sugar; flavour it with half a nutmeg 
 and one lemon grated; mix it into a stiff paste, and fry it in 
 small cakes in a saute-pan with plenty of butter, turn them; 
 when done, sift sugar over them, and glaze with a salamander. 
 
 Hasty Fritters. 
 
 Warm some butter in a stew-pan, take half a pint of ale, 
 and stir into it gradually a little flour, and a few currants or 
 sliced apples, beat them up, and drop a large spoonful at a 
 time all over the pan, taking care that they do not stick toge¬ 
 ther. Turn them with an egg slice, and when brown, lay 
 them on a dish, with sugar over them, and serve them hot. 
 
 Potatoe Fritters. 
 
 Boil two large potatoes, scrape them fine, beat up four 
 yelks and three whites of eggs, then add one large spoonful 
 of cream, as much of sweet wine, the squeeze of a lemon, and 
 a little nutmeg. Beat this batter half an hour, then put 
 some lard into a stew-pan, and drop a spoonful of butter 
 therein at a time. Fry the fritters, and serve them separately, 
 with a sauce made of one glass of white wine, the juice of a 
 lemon, a dessert-spoonful of peach or almond water, and some 
 lump sugar, melted together. 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 4*9 
 
 Parsnep Fritters. 
 
 Boil, peel, and grate to a pulp two parsneps, beat the raasa 
 up with four yelks and two whites of eggs, two spoonfuls 
 each of cream and white wine, with a little grated nutmeg 
 Beat the whole till the batter is very light, then fry it as 
 already directed, and serve the fritters up with orange or 
 lemon juice, and sugar, or with melted butter, white wine, 
 •jnd sugar. 
 
 Royal Fritters. 
 
 Pour a quart of new milk into a saucepan, and when it 
 begins to boil, add a pint of white wine. Take it off, and let 
 it stand five or six minutes, skim off the curd, and put it into 
 a basin, mix it with six eggs, and season it with nutmeg. 
 Beat it with a whisk, and add flour sufficient to make a bat¬ 
 ter, put in some sugar, and fry the fritters as before. 
 
 Chicken Fritters. 
 
 Put some new milk into a stew-pan, and add as much flour 
 of rice as will give it a tolerable consistence. Beat three or 
 four eggs, the yelks and whites together, and mix them well 
 with the rice and milk. Add thereto a pint of cream, set it 
 over a stove, and stir it well. Put in some powdered sugar, 
 candied lemon peel cut small, and some fresh grated lemon 
 peel. Cut off the white meat of a roasted chicken, pull it 
 into small shreds, and put it to the other ingredients, stirring 
 the whole together. This will make a rich paste, which must 
 be rolled out, cut into fritters, and fried in boiling lard. 
 Strew the bottom of the dish with powdered sugar, put in the 
 fritters, and throw some more sugar over them. 
 
 Bilhoquet Fritters. 
 
 Break five eggs into two handfuls of fine flour, with milk 
 enough to make it assimilate with the rest, then add salt, and 
 work it again. When the batter is well made, put in a tea¬ 
 spoonful of powdered cinnamon, the same of grated lemon 
 p«n]' and half an ounce of candied citron cut small. Rub a 
 pan with butter, and put in the paste. Set it over a slow 
 
FRITTERS. 
 
 fixe, and when baked, take out the paste, and lay it on a dish. 
 Place another stew-pan on the fire, with a good deal of lard, 
 and when it boils, cut the paste to the size of your fino-er, 
 and notch it across at each end, which will cause it to rise and 
 be hollow, so as to have a pleasing effect. Great care must 
 be taken that they do not rise too much. When done, sift 
 sugar on a warm dish, and shake some over the fritters. 
 
 German Fritters 
 
 1 aie, coie, and quarter some apple*, and cut them into 
 round pieces. Put a quarter of a pint of brandy, a table¬ 
 spoonful of fine sugar pounded, together with some cinnamon, 
 into a pan. Add the apples thereto, and set the whole over 
 a gentle fire, stir them often, but without breaking them. 
 Set on another pan with lard; and when it boils, drain the 
 apples, dip them in flour, and put them into it. Strew sugar 
 over the dish, and plaee it on the fire, lay in the fritters, 
 throw some sugar over them, and glaze them with a red hot 
 salamander. 
 
 Orange Fritters. 
 
 Peel five or six sweet oranges, cut them in quarters, take 
 out the seeds and boil the fruit, with a little sugar. Make 
 a paste, with white wine, flour, a spoonful of fresh butter 
 melted, and some salt. Mix it till it runs ropily from the 
 spoon. Dip the pieces of orange into it, and then fry them 
 of a light brown in lard. Serve them glazed with sugar, and 
 ^alamandered. 
 
 Wafer Fritters. 
 
 Take five or six spoonfuls of flour, a little salt, a quart of 
 waiei, eight eggs well beaten, a glass of brandy, and mix 
 them thoroughly. I he longer the fritters are made before 
 they are dressed, the better they will eat. Melt half a pound 
 of butter, and beat it well into the batter, then fry the fritters 
 in lard. 
 
 Currant Fritters. 
 
 l ake half a pint of ale, and stir into it sufficient flour 
 
 3 M 
 
 to 
 
450 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 make it tolerably thick, ami add a tew currant. Boil it 
 quick, at.d put a large spoonful at a time into a pan of boiling 
 
 iard. 
 
 Strawberry Fritters. 
 
 Make a batter with a spoonful of salad oil, one of white 
 wine, rasped lemon peel, and the whites of two or three eggs. 
 Let it be just thick enough to drop from a spoon. Mix 
 therewith some large strawberries, and put them into the hot 
 fritters. When of a good colour, take them out, and drain 
 them on a sieve. Strew sugar, or glaze them, and serve 
 them hot. 
 
 Raspberry Fritters. 
 
 Grate the crumb of a French roll, and put to it a pint of 
 boiling cream. When cold, add thereto the yelks of four 
 eggs well beaten up. Mix the whole with raspberry juice, 
 and drop the fritters into a pan of boiling lard, in very small 
 quantities. When done, stick upon them some blanched 
 almonds sliced. 
 
 Tatisey Fritters. 
 
 Pour a pint of boiling milk on the crumb of a penny loaf, 
 let it stand an hour, and then add thereto as much tansey 
 juice as will give it a flavour. Put in a little Spanish juice, a 
 spoonful of ratafia water or brandy, sweeten it, and grate 
 therein the rind of half a lemon ; beat up the yelks of four 
 eggs. Mix the whole of these ingredients, put them into a 
 stew-pan, with a quarter of a pound of butter, set it over a 
 slow fire, and stir it till quite thick, then take it off, and let 
 it stand two or three hours. Drop a spoonful of this batter 
 at a time into a pan of boiling lard, and when the fritters are 
 done, grate some sugar over them. Serve with wine sauce ic 
 a boat, and garnish with slices of orange. 
 
 Almond Fraize. 
 
 Blanch and steep one pound of the best Jordan almonds in 
 a pint of cream, add ten yelks and fou.' whites of eggs. Take 
 out the almonds, and pound them in a mortar, thon mix them 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 451 
 
 again with the cream and eggs, put thereto sugar and grated 
 bread, and stir the whole well together. Lay some fresh 
 butter in a pan, and when hot, pour in the batter. Keep 
 stirring till it is of a good consistence, and when done, turn it 
 out into a dish, with some sugar over it. 
 
 Bookings. 
 
 Mix three ounces of buckwheat flour with a teacup-ful of 
 warm milk and a spoonful of yeast, let it rise before the fire 
 for an hour. Then beat up four eggs, and as much milk as 
 will make a good batter, and fry them in it. 
 
 Ramakins. 
 
 Stew some Parmesan cheese, then bruise it with some 
 fresh butter, a little water, salt, and an anchovy. Boil the 
 whole well, and add as much flour as will make a paste. Put 
 this into another pan, with the yelks of twelve eggs, beat up 
 the whites stiff, and put them to the rest. Fry them till 
 brown. 
 
 PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 Rich puff-paste for Puddings , Florentines , and Tartlets. 
 
 To one pound and a half of finest flour dried, allow one 
 pound of butter and three eggs. Divide the butter into four 
 parts, well beat the eggs, rub in one fourth of the butter; 
 then mix the eggs ; if a little more moisture is required use 
 water a little warm; but be careful not to make the paste too 
 moist to require much flour in rolling out; roll in the rest of 
 the butter at three times. 
 
 If a less rich paste be required, as for a meat pie or pasty, 
 allow to one pound of flour half a pound of butter and one 
 ,■ i_rg j in m'xinjj the ingredients, proceed as above. 
 
452 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 For general directions as to the art of making pastry, tl;g 
 reader is referred to the early part or this work, p. 64 ( 8 
 
 Puff Paste , light. 
 
 To make light puff paste attention is principally required 
 in the rolling out; if it should be too light, it may he rolled 
 out once or twice more than mentioned; as it principally 
 relies on the folding it to rise even and high. 
 
 To a pound of good stiff butter (free from water) take one 
 pound of flour; break and rub half the butter in the floui, 
 wet it into a paste with a quarter of a pint of water, the juice 
 of one lemon, and the yelk of one egg beat up with it; care 
 must be taken not to make it too soft, hut hard enough to. 
 roll out the thickness of a crown piece : lay the remainder of 
 the butter in thin slices all over; fold it up, beginning at top 
 and bottom to the middle, in five or six folds; roll it out as 
 thin as at first, brushing off the flour before folding up ; when 
 rolled out, and folded three times this way, try a piece in the 
 oven ; if so light that it falls over, roll it out once or twice 
 more* The piece tried should not be thicker than a crown 
 piece; if it rises straight, it has been folded even; if not, 
 the ends nave not been laid straight. This paste is used for 
 all soJ'tS of pies, patties, vol-au-vent, and light pastry. 
 
 Vol - au-Vent , with Ra gout ; or Puff Paste Pott?/. 
 
 Cut a large oval in light puff paste, one inch and a h tlf 
 thick, eight inches long, by five broad ; bake it and take out the 
 inside, but mark where you mean to take it out; make another 
 not quite so large, to go at top; when baked, take the inside 
 out from the bottom, put your ragout or fricassee in the mid¬ 
 dle ; put on the cover. 
 
 N. B. It may be cut in any shape, according to the size of 
 the dish; and any made dish of fish or compote may be served 
 
 in it. 
 
 Duchess Rolls , or Petit Chose Paste. 
 
 Take half a pint of milk, two ounces of butter boiled, with 
 half a lemon-peel grated, and one drachm of cinnamon powder ; 
 work it in one pound of flour over the fire till it becomes a 
 
PIF.S AND TARTS. 
 
 453 
 
 stiff paste, and leaves the stew-pan; put it in a mortar, and 
 beat in it bv degrees five whole eggs, smooth. This paste 
 mav be rolled out in lengths, or made in balls, egged over, 
 and baked twenty minutes, and served with currant jelly, or 
 any kind of jam in the inside. 
 
 N. B. This paste may be fried in hot lard, and sifted sugar 
 put over it. 
 
 French Paste. 
 
 Take half a pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half a 
 pound of sifted sugar; rub the butter and sugar together, 
 add four whole eggs by degrees, with half a pound of flour, 
 half a lemon peel grated, one drachm of mace and cinnamon 
 in powder; spread it on a copper baking plate tinned as thick 
 as your finger; bake it, and cut it into any shape you please 
 while hot. 
 
 Crcquante Paste. 
 
 Twelve raw yelks of eggs, well mixed with ten ounces of 
 fine pounded sugar, put to stand in a damp place for three 
 days, covered over; work in one pound and a half of fine 
 flour; if too soft add a little more; grease the shapes or 
 moulds with beef or mutton suet before covering; cut it in 
 patterns on the mould, according as wanted, and bake in a 
 cool oven. 
 
 N. B. With this paste temples, pagodas, and other orna¬ 
 ments are made; and it is in general called cut pastry, from 
 trie patterns being cut with a very fine knife. 
 
 A rich Pujf-pastr for Patties. 
 
 Take one pound and a quarter of finely sifted flour, and 
 rub gently to it, with the hand, half a pound of fresh butter; 
 mix the same with half a pint of spring water, knead it well, 
 and set it by for a quarter of an hour, then roll it out thin, 
 and lay on it, in small pieces, three quarters of a pound of 
 butter additional, throw thereon a little flour, double it ii 
 folds, and roll it thii. diree times, after which, set it by for an 
 hour in a cool place. 
 
454 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 French Glazing for Pastry. 
 
 When pastry is nearly baked, sift some fine powdered 
 sugar over; put in the oven again, and hold a hot salamauaci 
 or shovel over it, till the sugar runs into a glazing. 
 
 English Glazing for Pastry. 
 
 Whisk up the white of one egg to a froth; brush it over 
 the pastry with a paste brush ; cover it thick with powdered 
 sugar; sprinkle a little water over it; put it in the oven, and 
 just let it set. 
 
 N. B. Pastry or tarts should be nearly baked when this is 
 done, as it is likely to burn if done at first. 
 
 Beef-stcak Pie. 
 
 Beat some rump steaks with a rolling pin, and season them 
 with pepper and salt. Put a good crust round the side, lay 
 in the steaks, with as much water as will half fill the dish. 
 Put on the cover, and let it he thoroughly baked. 
 
 Another way.—Take three pounds of tender steaks, and 
 cut them into small pieces. Chop six shalots, and mix them 
 with half an ounce of pepper and salt, strew some over the 
 bottom of the dish, then put in a layer of steaks, then ano¬ 
 ther of the seasoning, and so on till the dish is full. Add 
 half a gill of mushroom catsup, and the same quantity of 
 gravy, or red port, cover it with paste, and bake it two hours. 
 Large oysters that have been parboiled and bearded, will form 
 an agreeable addition, and their liquor may be used instead of 
 the catsup and wine. 
 
 Raised Beefsteak Pie. 
 
 Cut the skin from the fat of rump steaks, beat them, put 
 them over the fire, with a little butter, pepper, lemon juice, 
 and shalots chopped fine; when half done, lay them in a dish 
 till cold. Blanch and strain some oysters, and preserve the 
 liquor, put a layer of steaks at the bottom of the pie, another 
 of oysters over that, and so on alternately. When done, put 
 in some gravy, with the oyster liquor and catsup. 
 
PIES AN a I'/iRTS. 
 
 465 
 
 Veal Pic. 
 
 Season the meat with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little 
 dove in powder. Chop two sweetbreads, and season them 
 with the same. Lay a puff paste on the edge of the dish, 
 then put in the meat, with some hard eggs, the sweetbreads, 
 and oysters. Lav over the whole a few thin slices of ham, 
 and fill up the dish with water. When the pie is done, pour 
 in through the hole at the top a little good gravy, and some 
 cream that has been boiled with flour. 
 
 Veal and Ham Pie. 
 
 Take two pounds of cutlets, divide them into small pieces, 
 and season with pepper and salt. Then take a pound of raw 
 or dressed ham, cut it into slices, lay both alternately in the 
 dish, and put some forcemeat or sausage meat over all, with 
 stewed mushrooms, the yelks of three hard eggs, and a glass 
 of water. The best end of a neck cut into chops is the most 
 approved part for a pie. 
 
 Raised Ham Pie. 
 
 Lay a small ham to soak four or five hours, then wash, 
 and scrape it well, cut off the knuckle, and boil it half an houi. 
 'Lake it up, and trim it neatly, clear the rind, and put it into 
 a stew-pan, with a pint of Madeira or sherry, and a sufficient 
 quantity of veal stock to cover it. Stew for two hours, or 
 until it is three parts done, then take it out, and set it to 
 cool. Raise a crust large enough to receive the ham, round 
 which put some forcemeat, and bake it in a slow oven. When 
 done, take off the cover, glaze the top, and pour in a sauce 
 made as follows -.—Take the liquor the ham was stewed in, 
 skim it clean, thicken it with flour and butter, a little brown¬ 
 ing, and some cayenne pepper. 
 
 Raised French Pie. 
 
 Make two pounds of flour into a paste, knead it well into 
 the form of a ball, press your thumb into the centre, and 
 work it gradually into a circular or oval hollow, about five 
 inches high. Place it on a sheet of paper, and fill it with 
 
PA8TBY. 
 
 4-56 
 
 coarse flour or bran, roll out a covering of about the same 
 thickness as the sides, cement these last with the yelk of an 
 egg, pare the edges even, and pinch it round, egg it over 
 with a brush, and ornament it to fancy. Bake it till brown 
 in a slow oven, and when done, cut out the top, remove the 
 
 flour or bran, brush it clean, and fill with the fricassee of 
 
 chicken, rabbit, or any thing else convenient. Serve it on a 
 napkin. 
 
 Calf's Head Pie . 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal, with two onions, a few shavino-s of 
 
 isinglass, some sweet herbs, a blade of mace, and a few pep¬ 
 
 per-corns, in three pints of water. Resere the broth for the 
 pie, take off a little of the meat for the balls, and the rest may 
 be eaten, but the bones should be let simmer in the broth. 
 Parboil the head, and cut it into square pieces, put a layer of 
 ham at the bottom of the dish, then some head, first the fat, 
 and next the lean, with balls, and hard eggs cut in two. Do 
 this alternately till the dish is full, but place the pieces so a? 
 to admit the jelly. The meat must first be seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Put some water 
 and gravy into the dish, cover it with a thick crust, bake it in 
 a slow oven, and when done, pour in as much more gravy as 
 it will hold. The pie should not be cut till cold, and in doing 
 it, insert your knife so that it may reach the bottom of the 
 dish. Thereby you will cut thin slices, which from the dif¬ 
 ferent colours, and clear jelly, will exhibit a curious appearance. 
 Instead of isinglass, calf’s foot or cow-heel jelly may be used ; 
 the pie will also receive an agreeable variety by the addition 
 of calves’ tongues. 
 
 A smaller pie of this kind may be made to eat hot. 
 
 Calf's Feet Pie. 
 
 Boil the feet in three quarts of water, with three or four 
 blades of mace, and stew them gently till the liquor is reduced 
 to about half the quantity. Then take out the feet, strain 
 the broth, and make your crust. Take the flesh from the 
 bones, and put half of it into the dish, with half a pound of 
 currants, and half a pound of stoned raisins Lay on the 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 451 
 
 rest of the meat, skim the liquor, sweeten it to your taste, anti 
 put in half a pint of white wine. Cover the disk, and bake it 
 an hour and a half. 
 
 Sweetbread Pie. 
 
 Lay a puff paste, half an inch thick, at the bottom of a dish, 
 and forcemeat round the sides. Cut the sweetbreads in 
 pieces, according to the size of the pie, place them in first, 
 then some artichoke bottoms cut into four pieces each, next 
 some cockscombs, truffles, and morels, tops of asparagus, and 
 fresh mushrooms, yelks of hard eggs, and forcemeat balls. 
 Season the whole with pepper and salt. Put in plenty of 
 water, cover the pie, and bake it two hours. On taking it 
 out, pour in some rich veal gravy, thickened with cream and 
 four. 
 
 Gx Cheeh Pie. 
 
 Bake the cheek with seasoning, but do not let it be over¬ 
 done. It may stand in the oven all night, and will be ready 
 next day. Make a good puff-paste, and with it line a deep 
 dish. Take the flesh, kernels, and fat off the head, with the 
 palate, and cut the whole in pieces, lay them in the dish, and 
 throw over them one ounce of truffles and morels, the yelks of 
 six hard eggs, a glass of mushroom pickle, and several force¬ 
 meat balls. Season with pepper and salt, and fill up the pie 
 with the gravy in which the cheek was baked. Cover it with 
 a crust, and send it to the oven. Artichoke bottoms or the 
 tops of asparagus are sometimes put in with the truffles, but 
 the pie will be rich enough without them. 
 
 Venison Pasty. 
 
 Bone, and season with pepper and salt, a neck, shoulder, 
 or breast of venison. Put the meat into a deep pot, with the 
 best part of a neck of mutton, sliced and laid on it, pour in a 
 glass or two of red wine, lay a coarse paste over the whole, 
 and bake it two hours. On taking it out, lay the venison in 
 a dish, pour the gravy over it, and add one pound of butter 
 thereto. Next surround the edge of the dish with a good 
 puff paste, roll out the cover somewhat thicker than the r<rpt. 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 am? lay it on. After this, roll another cover thin, cut it into 
 torm, and place it over the former. The venison will keep m 
 the pot it was baked in eight or ten days, by letting the crust 
 remain. 
 
 Another way.—A pasty is made of what does not roast 
 well, as the neck, the breast, the shoulder. 1 he breast makes 
 the best pasty. Cut it into little bits, trimming off all bone 
 and skins. Make some good gravy from the bones and othei 
 trimmings. Place fat and lean pieces of the meat together} 
 or if '*ery lean, place the thin slices from the firm fat of a 
 neck of mutton aloim with the meat. Season the meat with 
 
 O 
 
 pepper, salt, pounded mace, and allspice. Place it hand¬ 
 somely in a dish, and put in the drawn gravy, a quarter of a 
 pint of claret or port, a glassful of shalot vinegar, and, if liked, 
 a couple of onions very finely shred. Cover the dish with a 
 thick venison pasty crust. 
 
 Before the pasty is served, if the meat be lean, more sauce 
 made of a little red wine, gravy, mixed spices, and the juice 
 of a lemon, may be put in hot. The common fault of venison 
 pasty is being over done. An hour and a half in a moderate 
 oven is fully sufficient for baking an ordinary sized pasty; an 
 hour will do for a small one. Some cooks steep the meat in 
 the wine and other seasonings for a night, or for some hours 
 previous to baking. 
 
 Another way.—Take a neck, shoulder, or breast of venison, 
 bone and trim off the skin, then cut it into small pieces, put 
 them into a stew-pan, with three glasses of red wine, two 
 onions, or shalots sliced, some pepper, salt, three blades of 
 mace, about twelve berries of allspice, and a sufficient quantity 
 of veal broth to cover the whole. Put it over a slow fire, and 
 let it stew till three parts done. Throw the trimmings into 
 another pan, cover them with water, and set the pan on the 
 fire. Take out the venison that is intended for the pasty, 
 and put it into a deep dish, with a little of the liquor, and set 
 it to cool. Add the remainder of the liquor to the bones 
 andtrimmings, and boil till the pasty is ready, which must be 
 covered with a good paste. Bake it two hours in a slow 
 oven, and before sending it to table, pour th erein a sauce made 
 ol tne gravy the venison was stewed in, strained and skimmed, 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 459 
 
 some pepper, salt, half a glass of port, the juice of half a 
 lemon, and some flour and butter. 
 
 A Dartmouth Pie. 
 
 Chop or mince two pounds of the lean part of a leg of 
 mutton, and half as much of beef suet. Keep them con¬ 
 stantly stirred from the board, to prevent the minyte particles 
 from sticking. Add a pound of currants, sift over them three 
 ounces of powdered lump sugar, grate some nutmeg, and sea¬ 
 son with a little salt. Work this mixture into a paste, com¬ 
 posed of two parts of purified beef suet, and one of fresh but¬ 
 ter, both melted, and mixed in the water which is to be used 
 in making the crust. Boil all together, and then pour it into 
 the cavity formed in the centre of the* flour, knead it up, and 
 roll it out for a lining and covering to the dish. 
 
 A Pasty of Beef or Mutton. 
 
 Bone a small rump, or part of a sirloin of beef, or a fat loin 
 of mutton, after hanging several days. Beat the meat well, 
 then rub it with sugar, in the proportion of four ounces to 
 ten pounds, and pour over it one glass of port, and one of 
 vinegar. Let it lie five days and nights, wash, and wipe it 
 dry, and give it a high seasoning with Jamaica pepper, black 
 pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Lay it in a dish, and spread over ten 
 pounds of meat, and about one of butter. Put a crust round 
 the edge of the dish, and cover it with a thicker one. Bake 
 it in a slow oven. Set the bones in a separate pan in the 
 oven, with just water enough to cover them, and one glass of 
 port, a little pepper and salt, to make gravy. This pasty is a 
 good imitation of venison. 
 
 To make raised Lamb Pies. 
 
 Cut the meat into slices, trim them neatly, and lay them in 
 the bottom of a stew or frying-pan, with one ounce of butter, 
 a tea-spoonful of lemon juice, and some pepper and salt, pul 
 them over a fire, turn them, and then set the pan by to cool. 
 Raise four or five small pies with paste, about the size of a 
 large tea-cup, put some veal forcemeat at the bottom, and the 
 Iamb upon it, roll out the top an eighth of an inch thick, cIomj 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 the edges, bake them half an hour, and when done, pom in 
 some good brown sauce after taking off the top. 
 
 Cheshire Pork Pies 
 
 Skm a loin of pork, cut it into steaks, and season it with 
 salt, nutmeg, and pepper, then make a good crust, put in a 
 layer of pork, then one of apples pared and cored, sugar 
 enough to sweeten it, then another layer of pork, next half a 
 pint of white wine, and cover all with some butter, before you 
 close your pie. If a large one, it will take a pint of wine. 
 
 A Shropshire Pie. 
 
 Make a good puff-paste, cut two rabbits in pieces, with 
 two pounds of fat pork chopped small, season both with pep¬ 
 per and salt, cover your dish with the crust, and lay in the 
 rabbits, with the pork intermixed; parboil the livers of the 
 rabbits, and beat them in a mortar, with as much fat bacon, 
 and a few sweet herbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, and nut¬ 
 meg. Mix it with the yelk of an egg, make it into balls, 
 and throw them into the pie, grate some nutmeg over the 
 meat, and put in a pint and a half of water. Bake the pie 
 an hour and a half in a quick oven. 
 
 Partridge Pie. 
 
 Take four partridges, and truss them as for boiling. Pound 
 in a marble mortar some shalots, parsley, the livers, the par¬ 
 tridges, and double the quantity of bacon. Season this mix¬ 
 ture with pepper, salt, and mace, and add thereto some fresh 
 mushrooms. Raise the crust for the pie, and cover the bot¬ 
 tom with seasoning, then lay the partridges thereon, but with 
 out stuffing, put the rest of the seasoning about the sides 
 and between the birds. Lay over these some of the pounded 
 mixture, with slices of bacon. Put on the crust, and bake it 
 two hours. When done, remove the cover, take out the 
 bacon and fat, add a pint of veal gravy, with the juice of an 
 orange, and send it to table hot. 
 
 Hare Pie. 
 
 Cut a hare into pieces, and season it with pepper, salt, 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 461 
 
 nutmeg, and mace, and put the whole into a jug, with half a 
 pound of butter. Close it up, and set it in a copper of boil¬ 
 ing water, then make a rich forcemeat, with a quarter of a 
 pound of scraped bacon, two onions, a glass of port, crumbs 
 of bread, winter savoury, the liver cut small, and a little nut¬ 
 meg. Season it well, and mix therewith the yelks of three 
 eggs, raise the pie, and lay the forcemeat at the bottom of the 
 dish. Put in the hare, with the gravy that came from it, lay 
 on the cover, and let the pie bake an hour and a half. 
 
 Hottentot Pie. 
 
 Bone two calves’ feet, and chitterlings boiled and chopped 
 small, next take two chickens, cut them up as for eating, put 
 them into a stew-pan, with two sweetbreads, a quart of veal 
 gravy, half an ounce of morels, cayenne pepper, and salt, stew 
 the whole over a gentle fire for an hour, then add six or 
 eight forcemeat balls, that have been boiled, and the yelks of 
 four hard eggs, lay them in a good raised crust, previously 
 baked for the purpose. Strew over the top some green peas 
 or asparagus tops, and send it to table without a cover. 
 
 Artichoke Pie. 
 
 Boil twelve artichokes, break off the leaves and the bot¬ 
 toms, make a good crust, and spread a quarter of a pound of 
 butter over the bottom of the dish. Then place in a row of 
 artichokes, strew pepper, salt, and beaten mace over them, 
 then another row, and so on alternately. Boil half an ounce 
 of truffles and morels in a quarter of a pint of water. Pour 
 the water into the pie, cut the truffles and morels small, and 
 scatter them over the pie. Add a gill of white wine, then 
 cover, and bake your pie. 
 
 Eel Pie. 
 
 Take eels of about half a pound each, skin, strain, wash, 
 and trim them well, cut them into pieces of three inches in 
 length, season with pepper and salt, and fill the dish, omitting 
 the heads and tails. Pour in a glass of w-ater or veal broth, 
 cover it with paste, rub the same with a brush dipped in the 
 yelk of an egg, ornament the pie with some of the paste, bake 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 *62 
 
 it- an hour, and when done, pour in a sauce made as follows: 
 ——The trimmings boiled in halt a pint of veal gravy, seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, a table-spoonful of lemon-juice, and 
 thickened with flour and water, strain it through a fine sieve, 
 end let it be boiling hot when put into the pie. 
 
 Cod or Turbot Pie. 
 
 Parboil the fish, and season it with pepper, salt, cloves, 
 nutmeg, and sweet herbs, cut fine. Lay the turbot in the 
 dish, with yelks of eggs, and an onion, cover the top with 
 fresh butter; and when baked, take out the onion. Oysters 
 may be added if approved. 
 
 Carp Pie. 
 
 Having scaled and gutted the carp, put it in vinegar, water, 
 and salt. When well washed and dried, make a forcemeat 
 as follows:—Take the flesh of eels cut small, some grated 
 bread, two buttered eggs, an anchovy cut small, a little grated 
 nutmeg, pepper, and salt, mix the whole together, and put 
 some into the carp, leaving the rest for balls. Then lay the 
 fish, without the tail and fins, in the dish, add a little beaten 
 mace, some butter, and half a pint of claret, cover the pie, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 Another way.—Scale, gut, and wash a large carp, then 
 take an eel, and boil it till nearly tender, pick off the meat, 
 and mince it fine, with the same quantity of crumbs of bread, 
 some sweet herbs, lemon peel cut small, pepper, salt, grated 
 nutmeg, an anchovy, half a pint of oysters parboiled and 
 chopped fine, and the yelks of three hard eggs cut small. 
 Roll this mixture with a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
 fill the belly of the carp. Cover the dish with a crust, and 
 lay the fish therein. Save the liquor in which the eel was 
 boiled, put the bones into it, and boil the whole with mace, 
 Avhole pepper, an onion, sweet herbs, and an anchovy, tid 
 reduced to about half a pint. Strain it, and add about a 
 quarter of a pint of white wine, and a piece of butter mixed 
 with flour. Boil this, and pour it into the pie. Put on the 
 iever, and bake it an hour in a quick oven. Tench may be 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 46S 
 
 clone in the same manner, only using port wine, instead of 
 white,wine or claret. 
 
 Salmon Pie. 
 
 Take a piece of fresh salmon, clean it well, and season it 
 with salt, mace, and nutmeg. Put a piece of butter at the 
 bottom of the dish, and then lay the salmon therein. Take 
 a boiled lobster, pick ou i the flesh, chop it small, bruise the 
 body, and mix it well in melted butter. Pour the whole over 
 the salmon, cover it up, and let it be well baked. 
 
 Trout Pie. 
 
 Lard a brace of trout with eels, raise the crust, and put a 
 layer of fresh butter at the bottom. Make a forcemeat of 
 trout, mushrooms, truffles, morels, chives, and butter. Sea" 
 son with salt, pepper, and other spicery, mixed with the yelks 
 of two eggs; stuff the trout, lay them in the dish, cover them 
 with butter, put on the top crust, and send it to the oven 
 When done, pour therein some fish gravy. 
 
 Sole Pie. 
 
 Split a pair of soles from the bone, and cut the fins close, 
 season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, ur.d pounded mace, and 
 place the whole in layers, with half a hundred of oysteis. Put 
 the liquor of the oysters in the dish, with two or three spoon¬ 
 fuls of broth, and some butter. When the pie is baked, add 
 thereto a cupful of thick cream. Mackarel, flounders, and 
 nerrings, are sometimes made into pies with various seasonings 
 to fancy. Spice, butter, and cream, are generally approved: 
 onions and apples shred thin are adopted by some persons and 
 rejected by others. 
 
 A fine Fish Pie. 
 
 Boil two pq$£ids of small eels, cut the fins off close, pick 
 0>iF the flesh, and put the bones, with mace, pepper, salt, and 
 a sliced onion, into the liquor. Boil the whole till rich, and 
 then strain it. Make forcemeat of the flesh, an anchovy, 
 parsley, lemon peel, salt, pepper, crumbs, and four ounces of 
 butter warmed. Lay all this at the bottom of the dish. Take 
 
464 
 
 PASTRY 
 
 the Hesh of some soles, small cod, or dressed turbot, and lay 
 it on the forcemeat, after rubbing in salt and pepper. Pour 
 the giavy over the pie, and bake it. The skins and fins of 
 ecd or soles must be taken off. 
 
 Lobster Pie. 
 
 Boil two large or three small lobsters, remove the tails, 
 cut them in two, take out the gut, divide each into four 
 pieces, and lay them in a small dish, then put in the meat of 
 the claws, and that which has been picked from the body. 
 Clear the latter of the furry parts, and take out the substance, 
 beat the spawn in a mortar, do the same by the shells, set 
 them on to stew, with some water, two of three spoonfuls of 
 vinegar, pepper, salt, and pounded mace, and add a piece of 
 butter rolled in flour; when the goodness of the shells is 
 extracted, give the whole a good boiling, and strain it into 
 the dish, strew some crumbs over it, and cover it with a 
 paste. Bake it slowly, but take it out as soon as the crust is 
 
 done. 
 
 Oyster Pie. 
 
 In opening the oysters, take care of the liquor. Strain, 
 Oeard, and parboil the fish, do the same with sweetbreads, 
 which last must be cut in slices, and disposed with the oysters 
 in layers, seasoned lightly with salt, pepper, and mace. Put 
 half a tea-cupful of the liquor, and as much gravy, into the 
 dish. Cover the oysters with crust, and bake the pie in a 
 slow oven. On taking it out, add a tea-cupful of cream, 
 some more oyster liquor, and a cupful of white gravy, warm, 
 but not boiling. 
 
 Shrimp Pie. 
 
 Pick a quart of shrimps, and if very salt, only season the 
 with mace, and one or two cloves. Mince two or three an¬ 
 chovies, mix them with the spicery, and season the shrimps. 
 Put some butter at the bottom of the dish, and poui over the 
 shrimps a glass of sharp white wine. Cover the whole with 
 puff-p^ste, and bake the pie in a moderate oven 
 
PrES AND TAIITS. 
 
 Vermicelli Pie. 
 
 Season foui pigeons with pepper and salt, stuff them vrith 
 crumbs of bread, parsley cut small, and mixed together with 
 butter. Then butter a deep dish, and cover the bottom with 
 vermicelli. Make a puff paste, lay it on the dish, then place 
 the pigeons with the breasts downwards, put a thick covering 
 of paste over all, and bake the pie in an oven moderately 
 heated. When done, turn the pie into another dish, the 
 vermicelli will then be on the top, and make a pretty ap¬ 
 pearance. 
 
 Mince Pies. 
 
 N. B. Those who possess a better recipe are challenged 
 to bring it forward. 
 
 Take of neat’s tongue or heart parboiled, one pound and a 
 half, chop it very fine, add to it one pound and a half of good 
 beef suet and an equal weight of currants, one large nutmeg, a 
 cloves and blades of mace beaten fine; a little salt; four fine 
 pippins, and half a pound of raisins stoned and chopped small; 
 half a pint of sack; quarter of a pint of best brandy; quarter 
 of a pint of verjuice; one pound of loaf sugar pounded, a 
 little rose water, the rind of a large lemon minced small, and 
 put in the juice; candied lemon and citron peel, of each two 
 ounces shred small. The crust should be very rich and 
 flakey, and the meat entirely covered above and below. 
 
 Another way.—Rub with salt and mixed spices a fat bul¬ 
 lock’s tongue. Let it lie three days, and parboil, skin, and 
 mince or scrape it. Mince separately three pounds of Zante 
 currants, picked, plumped, and dried, a dozen of lemon pippin 
 apples, pared and cored, and a pound of blanched almonds. 
 Mix them, and add half a pound of candied citron and orange 
 peel minced, and an ounce of beat cinnamon and cloves, with 
 the juice and grated rind of three or four lemons, half an 
 ounce of salt, the same quantity of allspice, and a quarter 
 of a pound of fine sugar pounded, a pint and a half of Madeira, 
 and half a pint of brandy. Line the pans with a rich puff 
 paste, and serve the pies hot with burnt brandy. 
 
 Observation. —The brandy is best when burnt at table as 
 
 3 o 
 
PASTRY. 
 
 it is used. Though the minee meat will keep good for some 
 time, it is best not to be too old. The fruit, suet, and wine 
 may be added when the pies are to be made, as the suet and 
 raw apples are apt to spoil, and the dried fruits, though in 
 less danger, do not improve by keeping in this state. Mince 
 pies will warm up very well in a Dutch oven, or in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 Another , less expensive. 
 
 Mince pies are made in an endless variety of ways. Indeed 
 every family receipt book teems with prescriptions. We 
 select what is, after experiment and mature consideration, con¬ 
 sidered the best formula. Par-roast or bake slightly a 
 eouple of pounds of the fine lean of good beef. Mince this, 
 or scrape it. Mince also two pounds of fresh suet, two of 
 apples pared and cored, three pounds of currants washed, 
 picked, and dried, and a pound and a half of good raisins 
 stoned. Let the things be separately minced till fine, but 
 not so fine as to run together- then mix them with a pound 
 of beat sugar, and add a tea-spoonful of salt, half an ounce of 
 ground sugar, the same weight of allspice and bruised cori- 1 
 ander seeds, some beat cloves, two nutmegs grated, the juice 
 and grated rind of two lemons and of two Seville oranges, 
 half a pound of candied lemon and orange peel, and a quarter 
 of a pound of candied citron sliced. Mix the seasonings 
 equally with the meat. Put half a pint of brandy, or pine¬ 
 apple rum, into a basin, with double that quantity of Madeira 
 or sherry. Keep the minced meat closely pressed in cans in 
 a cool dry place. When to be used cover pans of any size, 
 small saucers, or a small pie-dish with puff or plain paste. 
 Moisten the meat if hard with a little wine or brandy, and 
 fill the pies. Put a cover of puff paste over them, or if plain 
 
 paste ice it. Pare the edges neatly, and mark the top with a 
 
 paste knife. Half an hour of a moderate oven will bake 
 
 them. Slip them out of the tins, and serve them hot. 
 
 Observations .—Mince pies may be made cheaper, and yet 
 very good, by substituting gravy for wine; or by using home 
 made wine, (ginger wine is best,) by lessening the quantity 
 oi expensive fruits and spiceries, and taking any bit of lean 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 49? 
 
 jessed beef the larder affords, or a piece of the double trip£ 
 minced fine. 
 
 Egg Mince Pies. 
 
 Boil six eggs hard, and shred them small, chop double that 
 quantity of suet, then take one pound or more of currants 
 washed and picked, the peeling of a lemon shredded fine, 
 together with the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, some 
 mace, nutmeg, sugar, a little ssdt, orange, lemon, and citron 
 candied. Make a light paste. 
 
 Lemon Mince Pies. 
 
 Squeeze a large lemon, boil the outside till tender enough 
 to beat to a mash, add to it three large apples chopped, and 
 four ounces of suet, half a pound of currants, lour ounces of 
 sugar; put the juice of the lemon, and candied fruit, as for 
 other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the patty-pans as 
 usual. 
 
 Apple Puffs. 
 
 Stew or roast apples till they will peel and pulp dry. Mix 
 them with good beat sugar and finely chopped lemon peel. 
 Bake them in thin sweetened paste in a quick oven. T. hev 
 are best when made rather small. 
 
 Lemon or Orange Puffs . 
 
 Grate down three quarters of a pound of refined sugar, 
 and mix it well with the grate of three lemons, or two Seville 
 oranges. Beat the whites of four eggs to a solid-looking 
 froth, and putting tfiis to the sugar beat the whole together 
 without intermission lor half an hour. Make the batter into 
 any shape, or into a variety of shapes, and bake it on oiled 
 paper laid on tin plates in a moderate oven. When cold take 
 off the paper. 
 
 Cranberry Tart 
 
 Pick your cranberries, and wash them in several waters 
 then lay them in a dish, with the juice of half a lemon, and 
 
468 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 four ounces of moist, or pounded, lump sugar to a quart of fruit. 
 Cover it with puff paste, and bake it three-quarters of an hour. 
 
 Trench Tart of preserved Fruit. 
 
 Cover a flat dish or patty-pan with puff-paste, about one- 
 eighth of an inch thick. Roll out some more paste half an 
 inch in thickness, cut it in stripes,each an inch in width, wet 
 the paste and lay it round the pan, fill the centre with jam or 
 marmalade, ornament it with leaves of paste, bake it half an 
 hour, and send it to table cold. 
 
 Pippin Tarts. 
 
 Pare two Seville or China oranges, boil the peel tender, 
 and shred it finely, then pare and core twenty apples, put 
 | them into a stewpan with a very little water ; when half done, 
 add eight ounces of sugar, the orange peel and juice, boil the 
 whole till pretty thick, and when cold, put it into a dish, or 
 some patty-pans lined with paste. These tarts should be served 
 up cold. 
 
 Prune Tarts. 
 
 Scald the prunes and break the stones, put the kernels into 
 some cranberry juice, with the fruit and sugar. Simmer the 
 whole over a slow fire, and when cold, make a tart of the 
 sweetmeat. 
 
 Raspberry Tart. 
 
 Roll out some thin paste, and lay it in a dish or patty-pan. 
 Put in the raspberries, strew over them some fine sugar, cover 
 the dish with a fine crust, and bake it. When done, cut it 
 open, and put in w r arm, half a pint of cream, the yelks of two 
 or three eggs well beaten, and a little sugar. Return it to the 
 oven for five or six minutes, and serve it up. 
 
 Green Pea Tart 
 
 Boil some young peas a short time, put to them a little salt, 
 with some sifted white sugar, fresh butter, and saffron. Cover 
 them with a fine paste, bake the tart gently, and serve it with 
 sifted sugar. 
 
MES AND TARTS. 
 
 469 
 
 Transparent Tarts. 
 
 Take one pound of flour, beat up an egg till it is quite 
 thin, then melt three quarters of a pound of clarified fresh 
 butter, to mix with the egg, and as soon as it is cool, pour the 
 whole into the centre of the flour, and form the paste. Roil 
 it thin, make up the tarts, and on setting them in the oven, 
 wet them over with a little water, and grate on them a small 
 quantity of sugar. 
 
 Almond Tarts. 
 
 Blanch some almonds, beat them fine in a mortar, with a 
 little white wine, and some sugar, in the proportion of one 
 pound to the same quantity of almonds, add to these, grated 
 bread, nutmeg, cream, and the juice of spinach for a colouring. 
 Bake it gently, and when done, thicken it with candied orange 
 or citron. 
 
 Tart de Moi. 
 
 Lay a puff-paste round a dish, and then put in a layer of 
 butter and marrow, another of sweetmeats, and so on, till the 
 dish is full. Boil a quart of cream, thicken it with eggs, put 
 in a spoonful of orange-flower water, sweeten it with sugar, 
 pour it over the tart, and bake it half an hour. 
 
 Angelica Tart. 
 
 Pare and core some golden pippins or nonpareils, and then 
 take an equal quantity of the stalks of angelica, peel, and cut 
 them into small pieces. Boil the apples in water enough to 
 cover them, with lemon peel and fine sugar. Do them 
 gently, till they produce a thin syrup, and then strain it off. 
 Put it on the fire together with the angelica, and let both boil 
 ten minutes. Make a puff-paste, lay it at the bottom of the 
 tin, then a layer of apple, and one of angelica, till full. 
 Pour in some syrup, put on the cover, and bake it moderately. 
 
 Chocolate Tart. 
 
 Rasp four ounces of chocolate, and a slice of cinnamon, add 
 
470 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 thereto fresh lemon-peel grated, salt, and sugar. Take two 
 spoonfuls of flour, and the yelks of six eggs well beaten, and 
 mixed with milk. Put the whole into a stewpan, and set it 
 over the fire. When taken off put in lemon-peel cut small, 
 and let it stand till cold. Beat up enough of the whites of 
 eggs to cover it, and put it into puff-paste. When baked, 
 throw sifted sugar over it, and glaze it with a salamander. 
 
 Apple Puffs. 
 
 Pare the apples, and either stew them in a stone jar on a 
 hot hearth, or bake them. When cold, mix the pulp with 
 sugar, and lemon peel shreded fine, taking but little of the 
 juice. Bake them in thin paste, in a quick oven, for a 
 quarter of an hour. Orange or quince marmalade is a great 
 improvement, also cinnamon pounded, or orange-flower water. 
 
 Light Puffs. 
 
 Mix two spoonfuls of flour with a little grated lemon-peel, 
 some nutmeg, half a spoonful of brandy, a little loaf sugar, 
 and one egg, then fry the whole, but not brown, beat it in a 
 mortar with the whites and yelks of five eggs ; put some lard 
 in a frying-pan, and when hot, drop a dessert-spoonful of 
 batter in it at a time, turn them as they brown, and serve 
 them with sweet sauce. 
 
 Almond Puffs. 
 
 Blanch two ounces of sweet almonds, and beat them fine, 
 with orange-flower water. Beat up also the whites of three 
 eggs to a froth, and strew in a little sifted sugar. Mix the. 
 almonds with the sugar and eggs, and add more sugar till it is 
 as thick as paste. Make it into cakes, and bake them in a 
 slack oven on paper. 
 
 Curd Puffs. 
 
 Pour a little rennet into two quarts of milk, and when it is 
 broken, put it into a coarse cloth to drain.. Then rub the 
 curd through a hair seive, and put to it four ounces of butter, 
 ten ounces of bread, half a nutmeg, a lemon peel grated, and 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 471 
 
 a spoonful of wine. Sweeten with sugar to your taste, rub 
 your cups with butter, and put them into the oven for about 
 half an hour. 
 
 Chocolate Puffs. 
 
 Beat and sift half a pound of double-refined sugar, scrape 
 into it an ounce of chocolate very fine, and mix the whole 
 together. Beat up the white of an egg to a froth, and strew 
 into it the sugar and chocolate. Keep beating it till it is as 
 thick as paste, then sugar the paper, drop them on about the 
 size of a sixpence, and bake them in a slow oven. 
 
 Lemon Puffs. 
 
 Beat and sift a pound and a quarter of double-refined 
 sugar, grate the rind of two lemons, and mix the same with 
 the sugar, then beat the whites of three new-laid cff^s, add 
 them to the sugar and peel, and beat it for an hour, make it 
 up into shape, and bake it on oiled paper laid on tin plates, in a 
 moderate oven. The paper must remain till cold. Oiling it 
 w'Jl make it come off with ease. 
 
 Small Puffs of preserved Fruit. 
 
 Roll out thin good puff-paste, and cut it into pieces, lay a 
 small quantity of any kind of jam on each, double them over 
 and cut them into shapes, lay them with paper on a baking 
 platt, ice them, and bake them about twenty minutes, without 
 colouring. 
 
 Sugar Puffs. 
 
 Beat up the whites of ten eggs till they froth, then put 
 them into a marble mortar, with as much double refined sugar 
 as will make it thick. Rub it well round, put in a few 
 caraway seeds, then take a sheet of wafers, and lay the same 
 on, each as broad as a sixpence, and as high as you can. Put 
 them into a moderate oven for about a quarter of an hour. 
 
 Norfolk Pudding Puffs. 
 
 Mix three eggs, three table-spoonfuls of flour, half a pint 
 of cream, and two table-spoonfuls of orange-flower or rose 
 
m 
 
 PA STIC V. 
 
 water. Sweeten the whole with sugar, put the batter into 
 deep custard cups, about half full, set them in the oven, and 
 when the puffs rise to the top they are done. 
 
 Orange Puffs. 
 
 Pare the rinds from some Seville oranges, and rub them 
 with salt, let them lie twenty-four hours in water, boil them 
 in four changes of water, making the first salt, then drain, 
 and beat the oranges to a pulp; bruise in all the pieces that 
 you have pared, make the whole sweet with white sugar, and 
 boil it till thick. Let it stand till cold, and then put it into 
 the paste. 
 
 Mille Feuilles, Italian Pyramid. 
 
 A good puff paste, rather thick, must be stamped out with 
 tin stamps or any ingenious substitutes, into a number ol 
 pieces, each less than the other ; the base being of the size of 
 the plate in which the pyramid is to be served, and the others 
 gradually tapering to the top. Bake the pieces of paste on 
 paper laid on tins, and ice them. Pile them up with rasp¬ 
 berry and other jams of different colours laid on the edges, 
 and a bunch of small preserved fruit or some other ornament 
 on the top. 
 
 Fuit cFAmour, or Sweatmeet Tarts. 
 
 Roll and cut puff-paste, as patties, with a scollop-cutter, 
 but much smaller; when baked, put marmalade, jam, jelly, 
 custards, or creams in them. Or you may line a tart-pan with 
 puff-paste, put marmalade or sweetmeat in, and cover it over 
 with slips of paste, according to fancy: in general it is made 
 like basket work. Bake and glaze with French glazing. 
 
 Tartlets stringed. 
 
 Line the pans with puff-paste ; put some sweetmeat in each, 
 and roll out some fine threads of paste, cover them over in 
 various patterns, and bake in a gentle oven. For stringing 
 tartlets, take the size of a walnut of puff-paste; work it with 
 a tea spoonful of water and flour, on a marble slab or table, 
 till it becomes quite tough, and will pull out in lengths. 
 
PIES AND TARTS. 
 
 473 
 
 Stewed apples, raspberry, strawberry, or apricot jam, may be 
 put in puff paste. 
 
 Tarts are also made of all sorts of marmalades, jams, and 
 preserved small fruits. If of apples, pare, core, and quarter 
 them. Stew and mash them, and sweeten them with fine 
 beat sugar. Season with the squeeze of a lemon, a little 
 beat cinnamon, an ounce of candied orange peel sliced, and a 
 little white wine or cider. Cover a flat dish with tart paste, 
 and place a broad rim of puff-paste round the edges. Bake 
 the paste and put it in the jam, either when it is ready, or a 
 few minutes before. Paste stars, flowers, &c. may be cut out, 
 and baked on tins to ornament the top; or if the fruit is put 
 in at first, it may be covered with paste cross bars. Fresh 
 good cream is a very great improvement to all fruit pies and 
 tarts. The next best thing is plain custard. In England 
 the cream is often sweetened, thickened with beat yelks of 
 eggs, and poured over the fruit. In Scotland cream for tarts 
 is usually served by itself, either plain or whisked. 
 
 Sandwich Pastry. 
 
 Roll out two pieces of paste very thin, of equal size; spread 
 apricot or raspberry jam over one of them; cover with the 
 other; bake it; cut it in squares or rounds ; and glaze it with 
 French glazing. 
 
 Small Pastry. 
 
 Roll out a piece of puff-paste thin ; brush it over with egg, 
 chop some blanched almonds and citron; add coarse pounded 
 sugar; sprinkle this over the paste; cut it in rings, or shapes, 
 and bake it in a moderate oven. 
 
 Fan Pastry. 
 
 Roll out puff-paste one inch thick ; cut it in slices the size 
 of a finger; lay it on the baking tin, the side it was cut; 
 when baked, glaze over with French glazing. 
 
 Thousand Leaf Cake (Gateau Mille Fruit.) 
 
 Cut eight pieces of paste, as for vol-au-vent; lessening th6 
 size till it becomes quite small; when baked, take the inside 
 out, fill separately with preserved fruits, jams, or custards ; put 
 
 3 p 
 
474 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 one on the other to form a pyramid; spin caromel sugar, over 
 all together; garnish the outside with jelly or comfits. 
 
 Grnamental Pastry for Dishes. 
 
 Roll out puff-paste several times to take off the lightness, 
 cut different patterns with the cutters; when baked, glaze 
 with French glazing, afterwards stick up in the dish with 
 caromel sugar, and put any compote, sweetmeat, jams, or 
 whipped creams in the middle. 
 
 Almond Paste. 
 
 Blanch and pound one pound of Jordan almonds, very fine; 
 add a spoonful of water in the pounding to keep them from 
 oiling; add three quarters of a pound of fine sifted sugar: 
 stir it together over a gentle fire to dry off the moisture. As 
 it leaves the pan, and becomes a stiff paste, put it in pots. 
 
 N. B. You may add half an ounce of gum tragacanth, 
 soaked in water, thick. 
 
 Tarts to tarn out. 
 
 Roll the biscuit paste, or tart paste, out thin; line a tart- 
 pan; put the fresh fruit in with pounded sugar at the top ; 
 cover it over with the paste, thin; make two holes at the sides, 
 notch it neatly round, and bake : when nearly baked, glaze it 
 with English glazing, and turn out of the dish while hot. 
 
 Almond Paste Ornaments. 
 
 Roll almond paste out thin; cut out with cutters, any 
 1 atterns; bake very gently in a cool oven. 
 
 You may ornament cakes with this, and stick them up in 
 flishes with caromel sugar. 
 
 N. B. Windmills, castles, bridges, houses, boats, Sec. are 
 made of this paste, and baked very slowly; you may serve any 
 thing with them. 
 
 Almond Cups. 
 
 Roll out and form cups in moulds of almond paste; bake 
 *Jiem in a cool oven; when done fill with boiled custards or 
 syllabub creams. 
 
PIES AND PASTRY. 
 
 475 
 
 Almorid Wafers. 
 
 Pound half a pound of blanched Jordan almonds very fine, 
 with two yelks of eggs ; put to them a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, one lemon-peel, and half a nutmeg grated; add two 
 whole eggs, and one ounce of flour; mix it well together, 
 spread it thin on a copper tinned plate, rubbed with butter; 
 sprinkle fine chopped almonds over, and bake it quickly ; cut 
 it in long squares while warm, turn it over a round piece of 
 wood till cold and crisp. 
 
 Patties. 
 
 Roll out puff-paste, half an inch thick; cut them with a 
 round cutter, the size wanted ; mark the top where to be taken 
 out; glaze them over with yelk of egg and cream ; and bake 
 in a quick oven; when done cut the inside out, and put patty 
 meat in as directed under the different heads of patty meats. 
 If a top is wanted, cut a size smaller, and roll a little thinner; 
 when baked take out the bottoms, and cover over the other. 
 
 Force meat for patties may be prepared from many different 
 articles, according to which they take their name. 
 
 Beef Patties 
 
 Are made of under-done beef, shred small, seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, cayenne, shalot and onion ; a little butter-cream, 
 or rich gravy may be added at pleasure. 
 
 Veal and Ham Patties 
 
 Are prepared by chopping small, six ounces lean dressed 
 veal, three of ham, put them into a stew-pan, with an ounce 
 of butter rolled in flour, half a gill of cream, and the same 
 quantity of veal stock, a little grated nutmeg, and lemon peel, 
 some cayenne pepper, and salt, a spoonful of the essence of 
 ham, and lemon juice. Stir the whole over the fire some 
 time, and then make patties as before directed. The white 
 meat of the breasts of chickens or fowls may be substituted 
 Irr the veal. 
 
 For Turkey Patties. 
 
 Mince some of the white meat, and add thereto grated 
 lemon peel, nutmeg, salt, white pepper, cream, and a little 
 butter: Proceed as before. 
 
476 
 
 PASTRY. 
 
 Sweet Patties. 
 
 Chop the meat of a boiled calf* s foot, and use the liquoi 
 for jelly, take two apples, one ounce of orange and lemon 
 peel candied, also some fresh peel and juice. Mix these with 
 half a nutmeg grated, the yelk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy, 
 and four ounces of clean currants. Bake them in small 
 patty-pans. 
 
 Patties resembling Mince Pies. 
 
 Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, add thereto an apple, 
 orange, lemon peel candied, and fresh currants, a little wine, 
 two or three cloves, some brandy, and sugar. Make the 
 patties, and bake them. 
 
 Oyster Patties. 
 
 Roll out some puff-paste a quarter of an inch thick, cut it 
 into squares, sheet eight or ten patty-pans, and put upon each 
 a small bit of bread. Roll out another layer of paste of the 
 same thickness, cut it as before, wet the edge of the bottom 
 paste, and lay on the top, pare the edges round, and notch 
 them with the back of the knife, rub them with the yelk of 
 egg, and bake them in a hot oven about a quarter of an hour. 
 When done, take a thin slice off the top, and with a knife or 
 spoon take out the bread and inside paste, leaving the outside 
 entire, parboil two dozen large oysters, strain them from their 
 liquor, wash, beard, and cut them into four pieces, put them 
 into a stewpan, with an ounce of butter rolled in flour, half a 
 gill of cream, some grated lemon peel, and the oyster liquor 
 that has been reduced by boiling to one half, some cayenne, 
 salt, and a tea-spoonful of lemon-juice. Stir the whole over 
 the fire five minutes, and fill the patty-pans. 
 
 Lobster Patties. 
 
 Take a hen lobster that has been boiled, pick out the meat 
 from the tail and claws, chop it fine, and put it into a stew- 
 pan, with a little of the inside spawn pounded in a mortar till 
 perfectly smooth. Add thereto an ounce of fresh butter, half 
 a gill of cream, and the same of veal jelly, cayenne pepper, 
 
PIF.> TAF rs. 
 
 477 
 
 1 
 
 and salt, a tea-spoonful of the essence of anchovy, as much 
 flour, and water. Stew these five minutes, and make your 
 patties agreeable to the former directions. 
 
 Tried Patties. 
 
 Mince a little cold veal, and six oysters, then mix a few 
 crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and lemon peel, add 
 thereto the liquor of the oysters, warm the whole, but do not 
 let it boil. As it cools, get ready a good puff paste, roll it 
 thin, and cut it into square pieces, put some of the ingre¬ 
 dients between two of them, twist up the edges, and fry them 
 brown. This is a fashionable dish when baked. 
 
 Timball of Macaroni. 
 
 Boil one pound of macaroni tender, in two quarts of milk 
 and water, and a quarter of a pound of butter; when tender, 
 dry it with a cloth, line a mould with slices of fat bacon, mix 
 a couple of whole eggs, well beat up with the macaroni, and 
 some pepper and salt; put some in the mould, and a ragout 
 of sweetbreads in the middle; fill up with macaroni, and bake 
 or boil it two hours, standing in a pan with water, so as not 
 to boil in it; serve it with white or brown sauce, and take 
 the bacon off. 
 
 Casserole of Rice. 
 
 Boil one pound of rice tender, with one quart of milk, and 
 a quarter of a pound of butter; let it come to a stiff paste, 
 stirring it frequently over a slow fire; form this paste in a 
 mould, or on a dish, leaving a hole in the middle for a ragout 
 of any sort. If wanted brown, bake it in a mould; when 
 done take out the inside sufficiently to admit the ragout. 
 
 N. B. Palates, sweetbreads, ragouts of fricassee chicken, 
 may he served in it. 
 
SWEET FANCY DISHES. 
 
 I. OF RICE. 
 
 Bigncts of Rice. 
 
 1 Reduce two ounces of rice, well boiled in a. pint of milk or 
 cream, to a thick paste; sweeten it with two ounces of sugar; 
 add half a lemon peel grated, a tea-spoonful of cinnamon and 
 mace powder; when cold roll up in small balls, dip it in egg 
 and bread crumbs, and fry it quick; you may form it in any 
 shape. 
 
 Rice and Apples. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of rice, with one pint of milk or 
 cream, one ounce of butter, two ounces of sugar, and half a 
 lemon grated; make it stiff enough to put round a dish; put 
 a marmalade of apples in the middle; cover it over with the 
 rice; garnish with apple jelly, or pour a custard over it. 
 
 Snow Balls. 
 
 Swell half a pound of rice in water with a roll of lemon 
 peel till tender, and drain it. Divide it into five parts, and 
 roll a pared apple, cored and the hole filled with sugar and 
 cinnamon, into each heap, tying them up tightly in separate 
 cloths. Boil for an hour, and serve with pudding sauce. 
 
 Buttered Rice. 
 
 Swell the rice till tender in new milk. Pour off the thick 
 mdk, and add melted butter, sugar, and cinnamon. Serve hot. 
 
 Rice Blanc Mange. 
 
 Swell four ounces of rice in water; drain and boil it to a 
 mash in good milk, with sugar, a bit of lemon peel, and a stick 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 479 
 
 of cinnamon. Take care it does not burn, and when quite 
 soft pour it into cups, or into a shape dipped in cold water. 
 When cold turn it out. Garnish with currant jelly or any 
 red preserved fruit. Serve with cream, or plain custard. 
 
 Rice flummery. 
 
 Mix a couple of spoonfuls of rice Hour with a little cold 
 milk, and add to it a large pint of boiled milk sweetened and 
 seasoned with cinnamon and lemon peel. Two bitter almonds 
 beaten will heighten the flavour. Boil this, and stir it con¬ 
 stantly; and when of proper consistence pour it into a shape 
 or basin. When cold turn it out, and serve with cream or 
 custard round it; or with a sauce of wine, sugar, and lemon 
 juice. 
 
 Observation .—-This differs in nothing from rice blanc 
 mange, except that rice flour is used instead of the whole rice. 
 
 2. CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &c. 
 
 Curds and Cream. 
 
 When the milk is curdled firmly, fill up a melon or Turk’s 
 cap stoneware shape, perforated with holes to let the whey 
 drain off. Fill up the dish as the curd sinks. Turn it out 
 when wanted, and serve with cream in a class dish: or a v/hio 
 may be poured about the curd, which may be made firm by 
 squeezing or long standing. Garnish with currant jelly and 
 raspberry jam. 
 
 Cream for Fruit Pies or Tarts. 
 
 Boil a bit of lemon or Seville orange peel, a little cinna¬ 
 mon, two laurel leaves, twelve coriander seeds, two or three 
 cloves, a blade of mace, and a pint of new milk. Then put 
 into another stew-pan the yelks of three eggs, beaten up with 
 a little milk, and half a spoonful of flour, strain, and stir the 
 hot milk in, set it over the fire, and begin whisking it to the 
 
mo 
 
 CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 consistence of cream, and take it off again. As it cools, stir 
 in a table-spoonful of rose or orange flower water, or a little 
 syrup of clove gilliflowers, and a few drops of essence of 
 ambergris. This cream is particularly agreeable with fruit 
 pies or tarts. It may also be made in a plain manner, with 
 lemon peel, cinnamon, and laurel leaves only, boiled in milk, 
 and a single egg beat up with a spoonful of rice flour. Fruit 
 pies with cream should always be covered like tarts with 
 puff paste, and when served up, have their tops cut round 
 and taken off, for the purpose of depositing the cream on the 
 fruit, after which, the cover may be replaced, either whole or 
 in quarters. 
 
 Another way.—Boil half a pint of cream, and as much 
 milk, with two bay leaves, a little lemon peel, a few almonds 
 beaten to paste, with a drop of water, a little sugar, orange- 
 flower water, and a tea-spoonful of flour rubbed down witli 
 some cold milk. When cold, add some lemon juice, and 
 serve it up in cups or glasses.—Another method is, to whip 
 three quarters of a pint of rich cream to a froth, with some 
 scraped lemon peel, a little of the juice, half a glass of sweet 
 wine, and sugar. Lay it on a sieve, next day put it into a 
 dish, and ornament it with small puff paste biscuits, and fine 
 sugar sifted over all.—Or, you may glaze it with isinglass, 
 and border the dish with macaroons. 
 
 Another way.—Mix a quarter of a pint of ratafia or Noyeau 
 with the same quantity of mountain wine, sugar to taste, and 
 the juice of a lemon, and of a Seville orange. Whisk this 
 with a pint of good cream, adding more sugar if necessary, 
 and fill the glasses. Ratafia cream may also be made of the 
 beat yelks of four or five eggs, with a quart of cream, and 
 two glasses of brandy scalded together, but not boiled over 
 the fire. 
 
 Italian Cream. 
 
 Whisk up a pint or rather more of the richest cream, the 
 yellow rind of a lemon rubbed off with sugar, the juice of the 
 lemon, and more fine sifted sugar to sweeten the cream to 
 taste. Put to this, when well whisked, an ounce of isinglass 
 dissolved by boiling in hot water, and strained through a lawi 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 48* 
 
 sieve. Boat these together well, and season with Noyeau, 
 or curacoa, if liked. Fill the shape, and when firm turn out, 
 and garnish according to fancy. 
 
 A Curd Star. 
 
 Set a quart of new milk upon the fire with two or three 
 blades of mace; and when ready to boil, put to it the yelks 
 and whites of nine eggs well beaten, and as much salt as will 
 lie upon a small knife’s point. Let it boil till the whey is 
 clear; then drain it in a thin cloth, or hair sieve; season it 
 with sugar, and a little cinnamon, rose-water, orange-flower 
 water, or white wine, to your taste; and put into a star form, 
 or any other. Let it stand some hours before you turn it 
 into a dish; then put round it thick cream or custard. 
 
 Fresh Raspberry Cream. 
 
 Mash a pint and a half of fresh raspberries, with half a 
 pound of sifted sugar, the juice of a lemon, and a pint and a 
 half of cream; rub it through a sieve. 
 
 N. B. Fresh strawberry cream is made the same way. 
 
 Another way.—Mash ripe fruit, and having drained all the 
 juice from it, boil it with fine sifted sugar, and mix when 
 cold with good cream. The preserved fruits will do equally 
 well. This may be made in a shape, by boiling an ounce of 
 isinglass in a quart of milk and cream, straining it, and when 
 cool mixing raspberry or strawberry syrup with it, whisking it 
 'well, sweetening it, and shaping it in a mould. 
 
 Raspberry Cream with Jam. 
 
 Half a pound of raspberry jam, three spoonfuls of syrup, 
 the juice of two lemons, one pint and a half of cream, mix all 
 together; rub through a fine hair sieve; add a spoonful of 
 cochineal prepared. 
 
 N. B. Strawberry cream with jam, the same way. 
 
 Fresh Apricot Cream. 
 
 Mash eighteen ripe apricots with half a pound of sugar, 
 the juice of two lemons, and a pint and a half of cream ; rub 
 through 9 sieve, and put in a few of the kernels blanched. 
 
 N* B. Peach, plum, and mulberry, are made the same way. 
 
 SQ 
 
482 
 
 CKLAM, SYLLABUBS, &0. 
 
 Apricot Cream with Jam. 
 
 Take half a pound of apricot jam, the juice of two lemons, 
 a pint and a half of cream, half a pint of syrup, half a pint of 
 water; rub through a sieve, and add a few of the kernels 
 blanched. 
 
 N. B. Peach, and plum, may be made the same way. 
 
 Pine Apple Cream, fresh. 
 
 Grate one pound of fresh pine apple; add half a pint of 
 syrup, a pint and a half of cream, the juice of two lemons; 
 rub through a sieve; cut two slices of pine in small dice. 
 
 Pine Apple Cream with Jam. 
 
 Pound six ounces of preserved pine apple; one spoonful of 
 the pine syrup, a quarter of a pint of clarified sugar, the juice 
 of two lemons, a pint and a half of cream; rub through a 
 sieve, and add four slices of preserved pine, cut in small dice. 
 
 China Orange Cream. 
 
 Rub the rinds of six oranges on sugar, and scrape it off, 
 add the juice of two lemons ; a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 a pint and a half of cream ; rub all together through a sieve. 
 
 N. B. Lemon cream is done the same way. 
 
 Another way. — Wipe with a wet towel, and grate off the 
 thick coarse parts of a Seville orange rind; then pare and 
 boil the skin till soft, changing the water. Beat this in a 
 marble mortar, and put to it a spoonful of ratafia, the juice of 
 the orange strained, four ounces of fine sugar, and the yelks 
 of four eggs. Beat these ingredients thoroughly well together 
 for a quarter of an hour, and then by degrees mix them with a 
 pint of cream that has boiled ; keep beating till the whole is 
 cold; then put it into custard cups, and set these in a kettle 
 of boiling water. Wipe the cups, let the cream thicken by 
 standing, and garnish with thin parings of preserved orange 
 chips. 
 
 A variety o*“ ci aams are made by changing the ingredients. 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 483 
 
 as chocolate for coffee;—Pistachios for almonds, &c.Creams 
 of a plain sort may be served on Naples’ biscuits, ratafia 
 drops, or preserved orange sliced. 
 
 Orange Cream without Cream. 
 
 Rub the rind of six china oranges on sugar, and scrape it 
 off; add the juice of three lemons, a quarter of a pound of 
 sugar, fourteen yelks of eggs, one wine glass of water: whisk 
 it together over the fire till it begins to thicken, but not to 
 boil. Whisk till cold. 
 
 N. B. Lemon cream is done the same way. 
 
 Coffee Cream. 
 
 Put four ounces of roasted whole coffee in a quart of 
 cream, with four ounces of sugar, and four yelks of eggs; 
 whisk it over the fire till it boils and is cold ; strain it through 
 a sieve. 
 
 Another way.—Have a pint of clear jelly of calves feet, 
 free from blacks and fat. Clear a large cupful of strong coffee 
 with isinglass till bright and deeply brown. Mix it with the 
 jelly, add a pint of good cream, and fine sugar to taste; and 
 after mixing well, boil up for a few minutes till you have 
 a weak jelly. This is an easily made, and favourite cream. 
 
 Tea Cream. 
 
 Put two ounces of green tea in a quart of cream, with 
 four ounces of sugar, and three yelks of eggs, boil it up and 
 whisk till cold ; strain through a sieve. 
 
 Custard Cream. 
 
 One quart of cream, six yelks of eggs, four ounces or 
 sugar, two lemon peels, half a nutmeg grated, and one small 
 stick of cinnamon ; boil it, and whisk till cold ; strain through 
 a sieve. 
 
 Pistachio Cream. 
 
 Pound four ounces of peeled pistachio nuts; add a pint 
 and a half of cream, the yelks of four eggs, and three ounces 
 
CREAM, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 484 
 
 of sugar; boil it together, whisking it till cold, and colou 
 with a spoonful of spinach-juice. 
 
 Orange Flower Cream. 
 
 Chop one ounce of candied orange flowers, fine; add four 
 ounces of sugar, one quart of cream, four yelks of eggs, two 
 spoonfuls of orange-flower water; boil, and whisk till cold. 
 
 Ratafia Cream. 
 
 Mix a quarter pint of ratafia or Noyeau with the same 
 quantity of mountain wine, sugar to taste, and the juice of a 
 lemon, and of a Seville orange. Whisk this with a pint of 
 good cream, adding more sugar if necessary, and fill the 
 glasses. Ratafia cream may also be made of the beat yelks 
 of four or five eggs, with a quart of cream, and two glasses of 
 brandy scalded together, but not boiled over the fire. 
 
 Another way.—Take four ounces of ratafia biscuits, one 
 pint and a half of cream, two ounces of sugar, three yelks of 
 eggs; boil all together; whisk till cold. 
 
 Biscuit Cream. 
 
 Take six sponge biscuits, a pint and a half of cream, three 
 yelks of eggs, and three ounces of sugar; boil all together ; 
 whisk till cold. 
 
 Burnt Cream. 
 
 Put two ounces of sifted sugar in a stew pan; stir it over 
 the fire to a fine brown ; then add one pint and a half of 
 cream, mixed with four yelks of eggs, and one ounce of sugar; 
 boil it together, whisk it till cold. 
 
 O 7 
 
 Brown Bread Cream. 
 
 Whisk up a quart of thick cream; add two spoonfuls of 
 orown bread, dried and powdered, with two ounces of sugar; 
 stir it together. 
 
 N. 13. Brown bread cut in dried in the oven, pounded 
 
 and silted 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUES, &c. 
 
 485 
 
 Ginger Cream. 
 
 Take four ounces of preserved ginger cut in small slices, 
 two spoonfuls of the ginger syrup, four yelks of eggs, and 
 one pint and a half of cream; boil, and whisk it together till 
 cold. 
 
 Tamarind Cream. 
 
 lake half a pound of tamarinds, three spoonfuls of syrup 
 warm it together, and add one pint and a half of cream ; rub 
 it through a sieve. 
 
 Noyeau Cream 
 
 Take one pint and a half of cream, three yelks of eggs, 
 three ounces of sugar; boil together; whisk till cold, then 
 add one glass of noyeau liquor. 
 
 N. B. Marasquin is done the same way. 
 
 Vanilla Cream. 
 
 Pound two sticks of vanilla, with three ounces of sugar ; 
 add to it one pint and a half of cream ; boil, and whisk it till 
 cold; rub it through a lawn sieve. 
 
 Almond Cream. 
 
 Pound four ounces of blanched Jordan almonds with six 
 bitter almonds, fine; add three ounces of sugar, a pint and a 
 half of cream, three yelks of eggs; boil, and whisk till cold. 
 
 Chocolate Cream. 
 
 Shred one cake of chocolate, melt it with three ounces of 
 sugar ; add a quart of cream, with three yelks of eggs; boil, 
 and whisk till cold. 
 
 Plain Cream. 
 
 Whisk a quart of cream thick, add two spoonfuls of 
 yrup, and freeze. 
 
 Hot Cream. 
 
 Make ratafia or biscuit cream, as directed; freeze it, and 
 put in a shape, to get very hard ; when turned out, put It on 
 
486 
 
 CREAMS, SYLLABUBS. 
 
 a thick board ; cover it over with a mixture made of eight 
 whites of eggs beat up stiff, and mixed with twelve spoonful? 
 of sifted sugar; put it in a hot oven three minutes till the 
 outward coat gets brown; put it on a dish and serve it imme¬ 
 diately. 
 
 Mille Fruit Cream. 
 
 Take a spoonful each of preserved strawberries, raspberries, 
 apricots, currants, green-gages, ginger, gooseberries, plums, 
 and orange-peel, cut small; add two ounces of isinglass boiled 
 in half a pint of water half an hour. Whisk three ounces 
 of sugar in it till nearly cold ; then add one quart of cream 
 whisked up to it in a froth, and put in moulds. 
 
 Spanish Cream. 
 
 Take three spoonfuls of flour of rice sifted, the yelks of 
 three eggs, three spoonfuls of water, and two of orange-flower 
 water. Put thereto a pint of cream, set it over the fire, and 
 keep stirring it till thick, after which pour it into cups. 
 
 Steeple Cream. 
 
 Put five ounces of hartshorn and two of isinglass into a 
 stone bottle, fill it up with water, add a little gum arabic and 
 gum tragacanth, then tie the bottle close, and set it in a pot of 
 water, with hay at the bottom. When it has stood six hours 
 take it out, and let it remain an hour before it is opened. 
 Then strain off the liquor, and it will be a perfect jelly. Take 
 a pound of blanched almonds, beat them, mix the same with 
 a pint of cream, and let it stand a little, then strain it off, and 
 mix it with a pound of jelly. Set it over the fire till it is 
 scalding-hot, and sweeten it with fine sugar. Take it off^ 
 put in a little amber, and pour it into small pots. When 
 cold, turn out the contents of the pots, and intermix them 
 with cold cream in heaps. 
 
 Barley Cream. , 
 
 Boil a little pearl barley in milk and water till tender, and 
 then strain off the liquor. Put the, barley into a quart of 
 cream, and let it just boil. Take tne whites of five eggs, 
 and the yelk of one, and beat them up with a spoonful of 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUBS. 
 
 487 
 
 fine flour, and double the quantity of crange-flower water. 
 On taking off the cream from the fire, mix in the egg by 
 degrees, and then set the pan on again. Sweeten the cream 
 to your taste, and when thick, pour it into basins. 
 
 A Trifle. 
 
 Whisk in a large bowl, the day before you make the trifle, 
 a quart of good cream, six ounces of fine sifted sugar, a glass 
 of white wine, the juice and fine grate of a lemon, and a few 
 bits of cinnamon. Take off the froth as it rises with a suo-ar 
 
 O 
 
 skimmer or silver fish trowel, and place it to drain over a bowl 
 on a sieve reversed. Whisk till you have enough of the 
 whip, allowing for what it will fall down. Next day place in 
 a deep trifle dish six sponge cakes broken; or rice trifle cake 
 cut down, and a dozen ratafia drop biscuits, and some sweet 
 almonds blanched and split. Pour over them enough of 
 white wine, or sweet wine, to moisten them completely; and 
 add a seasoning of grated lemon peel, and a thin layer of rasp¬ 
 berry or strawberry jam. Have ready a very rich and rather 
 thick custard, and pour it over the trifle to the thickness of 
 two inches. Heap the whip above this lightly and elegantly; 
 and garnish with a few sprigs of light flowers of fine colours, 
 or a few bits of very clear currant jelly stuck into the snow 
 white whip, or a sprinkling of harlequin comfits. 
 
 Gooseberry or Apple Trifle. 
 
 Scald such a quantity of cither of these fruits, as, when 
 pulped through a sieve, will make a thick layer at the bottom 
 of your dish; if of apples, mix the rind of half a lemon 
 grated fine; and to both as much sugar as will be pleasant. 
 
 Mix half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, and the yelk 
 of one egg; give it a scald over the fire, and stir it all the 
 time: don’t let it boil; add a little sugar only, and let it 
 
 grow cold. Lay it over the apples with a spoon; and then 
 
 put on it a whip made the day before, as for other trifle. 
 
 Chantilly Cake , or Cake Trifle. 
 
 Bake a rice cake in a mould. When cold, cut it round 
 
 nuout two inches from the edge with a sharp knife, taking 
 
4S8 
 
 CREAM3, SYl.LABUBS, & C. 
 
 care not to perforate the bottom. Pat in a thick custard, 
 and some tea-spoonfuls of raspberry jam, and then put on a 
 high whip. 
 
 Gooseberry Fool. 
 
 Put the fruit into a stone jar, and some good Lisbon sugar; 
 set the jar on a stove, or in a sauce-pan of water over the 
 fire; if the former, a large spoonful of water should be added 
 to the fruit. When it is done enough to pulp, press it 
 through a colander; have ready a sufficient quantity of new 
 milk, and a tea-cup of raw cream, boiled together, or an egg 
 instead of the latter, and left to be cold; then sweeten it 
 pretty well with fine lisbon sugar, and mix the pulp by de¬ 
 grees with it. 
 
 Apple Fool. 
 
 Stew apples as directed for gooseberries, and then peel and 
 pulp them. Prepare the milk, &c. and mix as before. 
 
 Orange Fool. 
 
 Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three eggs well 
 beaten, a pint of cream, a little nutmeg and cinnamon, and 
 sweeten to your taste. Set the whole over a slow fire, and 
 stir it till it becomes as thick as good melted butter, but it 
 must not be boiled, then pour it into a dish for eating cold. 
 
 Imperial Cream. 
 
 Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of a lemon, then 
 stir it till nearly cold; have ready, in a dish or bowl that you 
 are to serve in, the juice of three lemons strained with aa 
 much sugar as will sweeten the cream; which pour into the 
 dish from a large tea-pot, holding it high, and moving it 
 about to mix with the juice. It should be made at least six 
 hours before it be served, and will be still better if a day. 
 
 Chocolate Cream. 
 
 Scrape into one quart of thick cream one ounce of the 
 best chocolate, and a quarter of a pound of sugar; boil and 
 mill it; when quite smooth, take it o% and leave it to l.e 
 
CREAMS, SVLLA13 UBS, &C. 
 
 489 
 
 cold; then add the whites of nine eggs. Whisk and take 
 up the froth on sieves, as others are done; and serve the 
 froth in glasses, to rise above some of the cream. 
 
 Codlin Cream. 
 
 Pare and core twenty good codlins : beat them in a mortar 
 with a pint of cream; strain it into a dish; and put sugar 
 bread crumbs, and a glass of wine to it. Stir it well. 
 
 Blanc Mange. 
 
 Pick and boil two ounces of isinglass for a quarter of an 
 hour in a quart of milk or sweet cream, with the thin rind of 
 a small lemon; sugar to taste, and a blade of mace. Blanch, 
 split, and pound six bicter almonds, and two dozen sweet ones 
 with a little rose water, or plain water, to prevent their oiling, 
 and stir the paste gradually into the hot milk. Strain 
 through a fine lawn sieve or napkin into a basin, and let it 
 settle for a good while that the sediment may fall. Pour it 
 again clear off from the sediment, and fill the moulds. It is 
 sometimes difficult to take out, and dipping the mould in hot 
 water destroys the fine marble-like surface. Raise it from 
 the edges with a fruit knife, and then use the fingers to get 
 it out. Garnish with flowers, or slices of orange peel neatly 
 marked. 
 
 Flummery. 
 
 Put three large handfuls of very small white oatmeal to 
 steep a day and night in cold water; then pour it off clear, 
 and add as much more water, and let it stand the same time. 
 Strain it through a fine hair sieve, and boil it till it be as 
 thick as hasty pudding; stirring it well all the time. When 
 first strained, put to it one large spoonful of white sugar, and 
 tw’o of orange-flower water. Pour it into shallow dishes; 
 and serve to eat with wine, cider, milk, or cream and sugar. 
 It is very good. 
 
 Dutch Flummery. 
 
 Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half pints of water 
 very gently half an hour; add a pint of white wine, the juice 
 
 3 K 
 
490 
 
 CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 of three, and the thin rind of one lemon, and rub a few lumps 
 of sugar on another lemon to obtain the essence, and v/ith 
 them add as much more sugar as shall make it sweet enough ; 
 and having beaten the yelks of seven eggs, give them and 
 the above, when mixed, one scald; stir all the time, and pour 
 it into a basin ; stir it till half cold; then let it settle, and 
 put it into a melon shape. 
 
 Rice Flummery. 
 
 Boil with a pint of new milk, a bit of lemon-peel, and cin¬ 
 namon ; mix with a little cold milk as much rice flour as will 
 make the whole of a good consistence; sweeten, and add a 
 spoonful of peach-water, or a bitter almond beaten; boil it, 
 observing it don’t burn; pour it into a shape or pint basin, 
 taking out the spice. When cold, turn the flummery into a 
 dish, and serve with cream, milk, or custard, round ; or put a 
 tea-cupful of cream into half a pint of new milk, a glass of 
 white wine, half a lemon squeezed, and sugar. 
 
 Somersetshire Firmity. 
 
 To a quart of ready boiled wheat, put by degrees two 
 quarts of new milk, breaking the jelly, and then four ounces 
 of currants picked clean, and washed; stir them, and boil 
 till they are done. Beat the yelks of three eggs, and a 
 little nutmeg, with two or three spoonfuls of milk ; add this to 
 the wheat; stir them together while over the fire; then 
 sweeten, and serve cold in a deep dish. Some persons like 
 it best warm. 
 
 Oatmeal Flummery. 
 
 Put finely ground oatmeal to steep in water for three da 
 Pour oft’ the thin of the first water, and add as much moi 
 Stir up, strain, and boil this with a little salt till of the thick¬ 
 ness wanted, adding water at first if it be in danger of getting 
 too stiff! A piece of butter is an improvement, and a little 
 white sugar. Serve in a basin with milk, wine, cider, or 
 cream. 
 
 Observation. —This, if allowed to become sour, is neither 
 more nor less than Scotch sowens. 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 49] 
 
 Floating Island. 
 
 Mix three half pints of thin cream with a quarter of a pint 
 of raisin wine, a little lemon-juice, orange-flower water, and 
 sugar : put into a dish for the middle of the table, and p>.t 
 on the cream a froth, which may be made of raspberry or 
 currant jelly. 
 
 Another way.—Scald a codlin before it be ripe, or anv 
 sharp apple; pulp it through a sieve. Beat the whites of 
 two eggs with sugar, and a spoonful of orange-flower water; 
 mix in by degrees the pulp, and beat all together until you 
 have a large quantity of froth ; serve it on a raspberry cream ; 
 or you may colour the froth with beet-root, raspberry, cur¬ 
 rant jelly, and set it on a white cream, having given it the 
 flavour of lemon, sugar, and wine, as above; or put the froth 
 on a custard. 
 
 Syllabubs. 
 
 For a common syllabub, put a pint of cider and a bottle 
 of strong beer into a bowl, grate thereto a nutmeg, and 
 sweeten it to your palate. Then milk from the cow as much 
 as will make a strong froth. Let it stand an hour, and 
 then put some clean currants that have been simmered over 
 the fire. 
 
 For a richer sort, put a bottle of port', a pint of madeira, 
 sherry, or old mountain, with half a pint of brandy, into a 
 bowl, add some grated nutmeg and lump sugar, then milk in 
 two quarts, and put in more nutmeg. Sometimes syllabubs 
 are made with red wine alone. Another way is, to milk into 
 a bowl over a quart of cider, double the quantity of milk, 
 adding thereto a large glass of brandy, with sugar and nut¬ 
 meg. If a cow is not near, some warm milk poured out of a 
 tea-pot from a considerable height will be a good substitute. 
 
 In the western c mntries, thev make their svllabubs thus*— 
 
 ® *■ 
 
 Put a pint of red port and as much white wine into a bowl, 
 Ivith sugar, and then milk it nearly full, after which, it is 
 covered with scalded cream, some grated nutmeg, pounded 
 mace, and cinnamon. 
 
492 
 
 CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, cLC. 
 
 Whipped Syllabubs. 
 
 Ta«ce a pint of good cream, not thick ; put it in a deep 
 earthen pot with a small piece of lemon peel and a blade or 
 two of mace ; let it stand an hour or two, then put in two 
 ounces of double refined sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of 
 sherry or other white wine. Then work it well with a cho¬ 
 colate mill, and as the froth rises take it off with a spoon ; 
 put it into a colander to drop, then have your glasses ready 
 with a little wine sugared at the bottom of each. In some 
 put white wine, in some claret, in some sack; then take up 
 the froth with a spoon and fill the glasses as high as it will 
 stand. 
 
 Another way.—Take a quart of cream, a pint of white 
 wine, the juice of a lemon, and one Seville or two China 
 oranges, with a large glass or two of brandy, a gill of orange- 
 flower water, and pounded sugar. Whip it up well, and as 
 the froth rises take it off, and lay it on the back of a sieve to 
 drain. If it does not rise well, add the whites of two eggs. 
 When done enough, put a little of the liquet* into glass;' ', 
 grate thereon some nutmeg, and fill them up with froth, 
 may be coloured with cochineal, or by using red instead oi 
 white wine. 
 
 For an everlasting whipped syllabub, take a quart of 
 cream, half a pint of old hock, as much sack, three lemons, 
 and one pound of double refined sugar. Beat the last, and 
 sift it over the cream, then pare the yellow rind from the 
 lemons, and the rind of a Seville orange, or preserved essence ; 
 add this to the rest, and squeeze in the juice of the lemons 
 into the wine, with a little oranp-e-flower water. Having 
 mixed the whole well, whip it for half an hour with a whisk, 
 and then fill up the glasses. It will keep for a fortnight. 
 
 Spanish Syllabub. 
 
 To two quarts of new milk, put a quarter ot a pint of 
 blanched almonds well beaten, a glass of lemon juice, half 
 a one of rose water, as much of the juice of strawberries or 
 raspberries, a pint of white wine, and one pound of powdered 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 493 
 
 lump sugar Mix the whole well, and whip it up till it 
 froths. 
 
 Lemon Syllabubs. 
 
 lake a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, and rub it on 
 two lemons, till all the essence is extracted. Then put the 
 sugar into a pint of cream, and as much white wine. Squeeze 
 to this the juice of both the lemons, and let it stand two 
 hours. Then mill it with a chocolate mill to raise the froth, 
 which must be taken off with a spoon as fast as it rises. Lay 
 it on a hair sieve to drain, and then fill the glasses with the 
 remainder, putting the froth over all. Let them stand during 
 the night, and they will be fit for use. 
 
 London Syllabub. 
 
 Put a pint and a half of Port or white wine into a bowl, 
 nutmeg grated, and a good deal of sugar, then milk into it 
 near two quarts of milk, frothed up. If the wine be not rather 
 sharp, it will require more for this quantity of milk. 
 
 In Devonshire, clouted cream is put on the top, and pounded 
 cinnamon and sugar. 
 
 Staffordshire Syllabub. 
 
 Put a pint of cider, and a glass of brandy, sugar, and nut 
 meg, into a bowl, and milk into it; or pour warm milk from 
 a large tea-pot some height into it. 
 
 A very fine Somersetshire Syllabub. 
 
 In a large China bowl put a pint of Port, and a pint of 
 sherry, or other white wine; sugar to taste. Milk the bowl 
 full. In twenty minutes time cover it pretty high with 
 clouted cream; grate over it nutmeg, put pounded cinnamon 
 and nonpareil comfits. 
 
 Devonshire Junket 
 
 Put warm mLk into a bowl; turn it with rennet; then 
 put some scalded cream, sugar, and cinnamon, on the top, with¬ 
 out breaking the curd* 
 
CREAMS, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 
 Everlasting , or Solid , Syllabub. 
 
 Mix a quart of thick raw cream, one pound of refined sugar, 
 a pint and a half of fine raisin wine, in a deep pan ; put to it the 
 grated peel and the juice of three lemons. Beat or whisk it 
 one way half an hour ; then put it on a sieve with a bit of thin 
 muslin laid smooth in the shallow end till next day. Put it 
 in glasses. It will keep good in a cool place ten days. 
 
 Lemon Honeycomb. 
 
 Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and put it in 
 the dish that you serve it in. Mix the white of an egg that 
 is beaten with a pint of rich cream, and a little sugar; whisk 
 it, and as the froth rises put it on the lemon-juice. Do it 
 the day before it is to be used. 
 
 A Hedgehog. 
 
 Beat two pounds of blanched almonds in a mortar, with 
 some white wine, and a little orange-flower water. Work the 
 whole into a paste, and beat in the yelks of twelve and the 
 whites of seven eggs. Put to it a pint of cream, with some 
 sugar, and set it over a clear fire. Keep it constantly stirring 
 till thick enough to take a shape. Then stick it full of 
 blanched almonds, so as to have the appearance of bristles. 
 Beat up into a pint of cream the yelks of four eggs, and 
 sweeten it to your palate. Stir the whole over a slow fire, and 
 when hot, pour it into the dish, and let it stand till cold. 
 
 Milk Punch. 
 
 Infuse the rind of fifteen lemons in one pint of brandy 
 forty-eight hours. The juice of three lemons, three quarts of 
 water, two pounds of lump sugar, three quarts more of brandy. 
 Then take three pints of milk and one nutmeg grated. Make 
 the milk scalding hot, and pour it to the above ingredients ; 
 let it stand twelve hours, then strain it through a flannel bag, 
 till it is fine. In doing this, be careful not to move the 
 curd. When fine, bottle it. 
 
f. 405 J 
 
 3. ICES. 
 
 General Directions for Iceing , 
 
 Get a few pounds of ice, break it almost to powder, throw 
 a large handful and a half of salt among it. You must pre¬ 
 pare it in a part of the house where as little of the warm air 
 comes as you can possibly contrive. The ice and salt being 
 in a bucket, put your cream into an ice-pot, and cover it; 
 tnmerse it in the ice, and draw that round the pot, so as to 
 touch every possible part. In a few minutes put a spatula or 
 spoon in, and stir it well, removing the parts that ice round the 
 edges to the centre. If the ice cream, or water, be in a form, 
 shut the bottom close, and move the whole in the ice, as you 
 cannot use a spoon to that without danger of waste. There 
 should be holes in the bucket, to let off the ice as it thaws. 
 
 N. B. When any fluid tends towards cold, the moving it 
 quickly accelerates the cold; and likewise, when any fluid is 
 tending to heat, stirring it will facilitate its boiling. 
 
 Colourings to stain Jellies, Ices, or Cakes. 
 
 For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains of cochineal in the 
 finest powder, with a dram and a half of cream of tartar, in half 
 a pint of water, very slowly, half an hour. Add in boiling a 
 bit of alum the size of a pea. Or use beet-root sliced, and 
 some liquor poured over it. 
 
 For white, use almonds finely powdered, with a little drop 
 of water; or use cream. 
 
 For yellow, yelks of eggs, or a bit of saffron steeped in the 
 liquor and squeezed. 
 
 For green , pound spinach leaves or beet-leaves, express the 
 juice, and boil in a tea-cup within a saucepan of water to take 
 off the rawness. 
 
 Ice Waters. 
 
 Bub some fine sugar on lemon or orange to give the colour 
 
 o o o 
 
 ,and flavour, then s pieeze the juice of either on its respective 
 
49 G 
 
 FRUITS PRKPARED FOR 
 
 peel; adc. water and sugar to make a fine sherbet, and strain 
 it before it be put into the ice-pot. If orange, the greater 
 proportion should be of the China juice, and only a little ot 
 Seville, and a small bit of the peel grated by the sugar. 
 
 Currant or Raspberry Water Ice. 
 
 The juice of these, or any other sort of fruit, being gained 
 by squeezing, sweetened and mixed with water, will be ready 
 for iceing. 
 
 Ice Creams. 
 
 Mix the juice of the fruits with as much sugar as will be 
 wanted, before you add cream, which should be of a middling 
 richness. 
 
 Brown Bread Ice. 
 
 Grate as fine as possible stale brown bread, soak a small 
 proportion in cream two or three hours, sweeten and ice it. 
 
 To avoid needless repetition, the reader is referred to the 
 directions for various kinds of creams which are to be exactly 
 followed only with the addition of iceing. 
 
 4. FRUITS PREPARED FOR PRESENT USE. 
 
 Raspberry Pastilla , a Russian Dish. 
 
 Put some raspberries into an earthen pan, and set it in 
 moderately heated oven all night. Next day mash the fruit, 
 press it through a sieve, add thereto about one-fourth of its 
 weight of honey, and set it in the oven for another night. 
 
 Apple Pastilla. 
 
 Bake some codlins or other sharp apples, pulp them through 
 a sieve into a pan, and beat them with a wooden spoon four 
 hours, then add as much honey as will sweeten it, and continue 
 beating for the same length of time. Pour a thin layer of 
 
PRESENT USE. 
 
 49? 
 
 the mixture on a cloth spread over a tray, and bake it in s 
 slow oven, with pieces of wood placed underneath. When 
 done, turn it, place thereon a fresh layer, and proceed with it 
 in the same manner till the whole is baked. 
 
 Another way is, to peel and core the apples after baking 
 *hem, then mixing sugar with them, and beating up the whole 
 till it froths, after which, put it into trays, and bake it two 
 hours. Then put on another layer of apple and sugar, and so 
 on till all is done. Sometimes yelks of eggs are beaten up to 
 a froth, and mixed with the fruit. 
 
 Frosted Codlins and Cream. 
 
 Boil slowly some codlins in spring water, with a bit of roche 
 alum; when a little more than half done, peel off the skin, 
 rub them over with oiled butter, and sift on them plenty of 
 fine sugar. Lay them on a tin, and set it in a slow oven till 
 the sugar has a frosty appearance, when they will be ready to 
 be served with cream. 
 
 To scald Codlins. 
 
 Wrap each codlin in a vine leaf, and then put the whole 
 into a saucepan close together, after which, cover them with 
 cold water, and set them over a gentle fire to simmer slowly 
 When nearly done, take off the skin, and place the codlins in 
 a dish, with milk, cream, or custard, and fine sugar. 
 
 Stewed Golden Pippins. 
 
 Core them, pare them thin, and throw them into water 
 For every pound of fruit, make a syrup with half a pound of 
 refined sugar and a pint of water. Skim it well, and put in 
 the pippins to stew till clear, then grate some lemon peel 
 over them, and serve them in the syrup. 
 
 Stewed Pears. 
 
 Pare and quarter some pears according to the size, take off 
 the skin, and throw them into water; then pack them close in 
 a tin stew-pan, sprinkling over them a quantity of sugar, with 
 the addition of lemon peel, one or two cloves, and all-spice 
 
 3 s 
 
4.98 
 
 FRUITS PREPARED FOR PRESENT USE. 
 
 broken, cover them with water, and put in some red wine. 
 Cover them close, and stew them three or four hours. 
 When tender, take them out, and pour oft’ the liquor. 
 
 Baked Pears. 
 
 Wipe the fruit without paring them, lay them on tin plates, 
 and put them into a slow oven. When soft enough, flatten 
 them with a silver spoon. After they are thoroughly baked, 
 put them into a dish. It is best, however, to return them to 
 the oven again two or three times before sending them to table. 
 
 Black Caps. 
 
 Divide some baking or boiling apples in halves, pare them, 
 and clear out the cores. Next pound together some cloves, 
 with lump sugar and grated lemon peel, and fill up the space 
 which the cores occupied with this mixture. Lay each half 
 with the flat side downwards in a baking dish, add some water, 
 in which cinnamon and sugar have been boiled, set them in a 
 moderate oven, but let them not bake too much. When 
 done, serve them up cold, with the liquor poured over them, 
 and carraway seeds separately. Sometimes they are dressed 
 in a stewpan closely covered, over a slow fire, and the tops 
 afterwards blackened with a salamander. 
 
 A dish of Snow, or Snow Cream. 
 
 Stew and pulp a dozen of apples; beat, and when cold stir 
 this into the whites of a dozen eggs whisked to a strong 
 froth; add half a pound of sugar sifted, and the grate of a 
 lemon. Whisk the whole together till it becomes stiff*, and 
 heap it handsomely on a glass dish. 
 
 Dried Apples. 
 
 tut them in a cool oven six or seven times, on clean 
 straw, and flatten them by degrees, and gently, wnen soft 
 enough to bear it. If the oven be too hot they will waste ; 
 and at first it should be very cool. 
 
 The biffin, the minshul crab, or any tart apples, are the 
 Sorts for drying, and the large baking pear. Most fancy- 
 
FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 499 
 
 Mead-bakers take in fruit to do, at three half-pence or two¬ 
 pence per dozen, which answers better than doing them at 
 home. 
 
 1 
 
 FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 General remarks. 
 
 Great care must be taken to gather the fruit in a dry 
 day, otherwise it will never keep. Fruit should also be care¬ 
 fully stripped, whether for jelly or wine; it is a nasty and 
 pernicious way to squeeze the stalks and all. The sugais 
 used for preserves ought to be ot good quality, and a suffi¬ 
 cient quantity. Preserves are at best expensive things, and it 
 is bad economy to hazard spoiling and wasting the whole for 
 the saving a pound or two of sugar, or a penny or two-pence 
 a pound in the price. If expense is really an object, it would 
 be better to make but a small quantity and do it well. The 
 vessels used for preserving fruits should be kept for such 
 purposes alone, as the least particle of grease entiiely spoils 
 them ; many other things, not greasy, would so act upon the 
 metal as to cause it to discolour the fruit. Well tinned cop¬ 
 per preserving pans, or brass skillets, if kept perfectly bright, 
 are the most durable and secure against burning; or a double 
 block tin vessel answers extremely well, or one of iron very 
 thickly tinned ; but if the tin be at all worn off, they will be 
 sure to discolour the fruits. For stirring them a proper pre¬ 
 serving ladle is generally used, or a long spoon, either silver 
 or wooden, but on no account iron. The most convenient 
 vessels for keeping preserves are small earthenware or stone 
 jars, which should be scalded a few hours before using and 
 carefully dried: in filling the jars, great care should be taken 
 not to smear or spill on the edges of the jars, as that often 
 occasions mould to gather j to prevent it, it is bettei to fill 
 the jars from a spouted jug or butt °r-boat. The jars may be 
 filled within less than half an inch of the top, as the jelly 
 
500 
 
 FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 shrinks in cooling. When perfectly cold, a little brandy may, 
 be poured over each, just enough to cover the surface; if a 
 little sugar be sifted above this, it will be an additional secu¬ 
 rity, but is not absolutely necessary. The jars should then 
 be securely tied down with double paper, written upon, and 
 put in a safe place. Some people lay close to the jelly 
 paper steeped in brandy or salad oil, but the brandy poured 
 at top will be found to answer better. 
 
 It is desirable to have jars of different sizes, generally pre¬ 
 ferring small to large, especially for black and red current 
 jelly, of which a very small quantity is often wanted for the 
 purpose of administering a powder, pill, or other medicine; 
 and when a jar has been once opened, the preserve is apt to 
 injure, . For this reason it is very convenient to fill a few of 
 the very smallest sized gallipots which hold little more than 
 a spoonful, yet quite as much as is required for such a purpose. 
 To preserve stone fruit, melted mutton suet is often used, 
 which certainly is a very efficacious method of excluding the 
 air, but both unpleasant and extravagant. The purpose may 
 generally be answered as well by tying down the jars very 
 securely with bladder and leather, provided proper attention 
 be paid to having both the jars and bladders perfectly clean 
 and free from damp. 
 
 As to the place most suitable for keeping preserves, a high 
 shelf in a store-room is to be preferred before shutting them 
 up in a closet, unless it be very large and airy, as in a close 
 place all preserves are liable to ferment. It is equally neces¬ 
 sary to observe that the place is free from damp, and that the 
 jars do not touch tl? a wall. All preserves should be looked 
 at within a month after making: if any mouldiness have 
 gathered on them, it must be ascertained whether it arises 
 from damp in the situation; if so, they must be carefully 
 cleaned, tied down with fresh papers, and put in a dry place. 
 
 If otherwise, they must be boiled down again until the jelly ia 
 firm, and more sugar added if required; but this trouble ge¬ 
 nerally arises from neglect in the first instance, and is much 
 better avoided than remedied. A great deal depends on the 
 manner of boiling, which should always be a brisic simmer, 
 nover a galloping boil, by either oi which errors the colour 
 
FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 501 
 
 and flavour are greatly injured, and the keeping prevented. 
 Jelly may be made without boiling at all by merely stirring 
 the sugar, finely sifted and beaten into the juice of the fruit; 
 but this never looks clear, it has also a harsh crude taste, and 
 will not keep long. 
 
 In boiling jelly it is not necessary to begin skimming as 
 soon as the scum rises, by which a large quantity would be 
 wasted. Every good purpose is answered by carefully re¬ 
 moving every particle of scum just before the article is done 
 snough. 
 
 Ihe different degrees of boiling sugar constitute the chief 
 art of the confectioner, and in two or three minutes a syrup 
 will pass from one degree of boiling to another, of which per¬ 
 sons only in the habit of doing things in a plain way for 
 family use are not aware, and by which the result may be 
 very different from whit they intended. The following is 
 as intelligible a scale of pieparing sugars as any we have met 
 with, it extends frc’n a simple clarified syrup to a caramel 
 
 To Clarify Sugar. 
 
 To every pound of broken sugar take a quarter pint of 
 water, and the half of the white of an egg beat up. Stir this 
 up till the sugar dissolve, and when it boils, and the scum 
 rises strong and thick, pour in another quarter pint of water 
 to each pound. Let it boil, edging the pan forward till all 
 th e scum is thrown up. Set it on the hearth, and when it 
 has settled take off the scum, and lay it on a reversed hair 
 sieve over a dish, that the syrup may run from it. Return 
 the syrup into the pan, and boil and skim it once more. 
 
 Candied Sugar , first Degree. 
 
 Boil clarified sugar till it rises in the pan like clusters of 
 pearls ; or try between the finger and thumb if it have tenuity 
 enough to draw out into a thread. 
 
 Blown Sugar, second Degree. 
 
 Boil candied sugar till on dipping the skimmer into the 
 syrup, and blowing through the holes of it, the sugar forms 
 into bubbles. 
 
502 
 
 FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER, USE. 
 
 Feathered Height, third Degree . 
 
 Boil sugar of the second degree for some time longer, and 
 dip the skimmer in the pan. Shake off the sugar, and give 
 the skimmer a sudden toss, when if enough done the sugar 
 will fly off like snow ' c \akes. 
 
 Crackling Sugar, fourth Degree. 
 
 Boil feathered sugar till on dipping a stick into the pan, 
 and putting it afterwards in cold water, the sugar will imme¬ 
 diately become hard. 
 
 Caramel Sugar. 
 
 Boil crackling sugar till on dipping a stick into it, and then 
 into cold water, it hardens and snaps like glass. 
 
 Observations. —This last makes a very elegant cover for 
 sweatmeats, when prepared thus :—Set the pan with the cara¬ 
 mel sugar instantly into a vessel of cold water. Have the 
 moulds oiled with almond oil, and with a fork or spoon spread 
 fine threads of sugar over them in form of net-work or chain- 
 
 o 
 
 work. 
 
 For preserving some kinds of fruits, the sugars are thus 
 prepared, and we shall give some recipes on that plan, but 
 for plain family use should recommend in preference the simple 
 mixture of fruit, or juice and sugar. 
 
 When sweetmeats are directed to be dried in the sun or 
 in a stove, it will be best in private families, where there is 
 not a regular stove for the purpose, to put them in the sun on- 
 flag stones, which reflect the heat, and place a garden glass 
 over them to keep insects off; or if put in an oven, to take 
 care not to let it be too warm, and watch that they do pro¬ 
 perly and slowly. 
 
 Currant Jelly either Fed or Black. 
 
 Carefully strip the fruit, and scald it in an earthen jar, in 
 an oven, or on the hot hearth, or in a vessel dropped within 
 a saucepan of boiling water bruise the fruit, and when the 
 
 * Fro- this purpose a very convenient vessel maybe madeof tin to drop 
 within a boiler belonging to a Yorkshire grate; provided the boiler open* 
 at top. 
 
FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 503 
 
 juice runs freely, strain it off’, and measure it into a stone or 
 china vessel, then add in large lumps, the weight of lib. of 
 loaf sugar to each pint of juice. When nearly dissolved, put 
 the whole in a preserving pan, and simmer over a clear lire, 
 brisk but not flaming. When it has boiled some time, care¬ 
 fully remove all scum, and when it has boiled above half an 
 hour, try it by putting a little on a plate; as soon as it will 
 jelly stiffly on the plate it is done, and may be poured in IF 
 small pots or glasses ; for securing it, proceed as directed under 
 general remarks. 
 
 Another way.—Take one pound of double refined sugar, 
 put it into a skillet with water enough just to moisten it; boil 
 it up and clarify with the white of an egg, skim it clean, 
 then put in the juice of one quart of currants and boil it till 
 you think it will jelly; then strain through a muslin bag into 
 glasses. 
 
 Another way.—Let the fruit be good of its kind, fully 
 ripe, and gathered on and after a diy day. Strip off the 
 stalks ; weigh it, and clarify and boil to the second degree an 
 equal weight of refined sugar. Put the fruit to this in the 
 preserving-pan. Skim and boil for fifteen minutes. Skim 
 again, and run the jelly through a hair sieve, pot it, and when 
 cold paper it up. 
 
 Observations .—-A small proportion of raspberries will 
 greatly improve the flavour of the jelly. It may be made 
 paler by the mixture of a fourth or third part of white cur¬ 
 rants ; or white raspberries may be used. 
 
 White Currant Jelly. 
 
 Make as above, or squeeze the fruit and strain the juice. 
 Use only a silver skimmer and the finest sugar, and boil only 
 five minutes, as the delicate colour of this sweetmeat is very 
 easily injured. Run it twice through a jelly bag if neces¬ 
 sary. 
 
 Black Currant Jelly. 
 
 Pick the fruit and scald it in a jar set in boiling water. 
 Add a little water to it, and squeeze the hot fruit through a 
 
504 
 
 PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 sieve. To every pint of the juice allow a pound of sugar, 
 and a little water, and boil and skim for twenty minutes. 
 
 Another way.—Clarify the sugar, and put the fruit to it. 
 Let it boil for twenty minutes; run off' some of the jelly 
 through a sieve, and keep the rest as jam for common 
 tarts, &c. 
 
 Goosberry and Cranberry Jellies. 
 
 Clarify an equal weight of sugar with that of the fruit. 
 Boil the fruit for twenty minutes, and run the jelly through 
 a sieve, allowing a little to remain to make a coarse jam, 
 which may be seasoned with spices and used for dumplings 
 and pies. 
 
 To make a Jelly of Goosberries. 
 
 Let them be the right cbrystal sort,* dead ripe, puip them 
 through a coarse hair sieve, keeping back all the seeds and 
 hulls; then put the pulp into a preserving pan or skillet 
 with almost the weight of double refined sugar; boil it toge- 
 ther over a clear fire keeping it stirred till it is pretty thick 
 and will jelly; then put it into glasses without farther 
 straining. 
 
 Jelly of Raspberries. 
 
 Take the juice of one quart of currants and one pint of 
 raspberries, put it in a skillet with one pound of double re¬ 
 fined sugar, boil till it will jelly, keeping it well skimmed, then 
 pour into glasses. 
 
 To Pickle Barberries. 
 
 Gather them when full ripe and put them into a strong 
 brine of water and salt; pour melted mutton fat over them 
 and tie them down. Some people, after steeping them a few 
 days, remove the brine and put strong vinefgar, in which sugar 
 has been boiled, one pound to one pint: put it on cold, then 
 pour the fat and tie down. 
 
 * or as they are now commomy called ironmongers, a small, hairy 
 gooseberry very dark coloured when ripe. 
 
FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 £05 
 
 Jelly of Pippins. 
 
 Pare and quarter one dozen of large pippins and put them 
 into a skillet with what water will just cover them, boil them till 
 they are very tender, then strain off the liquor, which ought 
 not to exceed a pint; add to it one pound of double-refined 
 sugar and the juice of two lemons, and boil it till you think it 
 will jelly, simmering the whole time ; then strain it through a 
 muslin bag into glasses. 
 
 To preserve ripe Gooseberries, either green or red. 
 
 Cut them down one side and take out the seeds, then 
 make a syrup as you think will cover them, and pour to them 
 three or four times once every day, then put them in 
 glasses, and boil the syrup to a convenient thickness and pour 
 to them. 
 
 To preserve Currants or Barberries in Bunches. 
 
 Let them be gathered when dry, and pick out all the 
 seeds with a pin, then put them in warm syrup and finish as 
 the gooseberries. 
 
 To preserve Raspberries whole. 
 
 Take the juice of half a pint of raspberries, put it in a pre 
 serving pan with half a pound of double-refined sugar, set 
 over a clear fire and let it just boil up, then set it by till the 
 rash heat is off; then add a pint and a half of the largest rasp¬ 
 berries, carefully picked, and not over ripe. Strew over a 
 quarter of a pound of double-refined sugar, sifted, and set 
 them by till next day : then warm them up and set them 
 away again. The day following boil them up, and put them 
 in glasses ; then boil the syrup to a proper thickness. 
 
 Raspberry Jam. 
 
 Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar ; put the former 
 into a preserving pan, boil and break it, stir constantly, and lei 
 it boil very quickly. When most of the juice is wasted, add 
 the sucrar, and simmer half an hour. 
 
 3 T 
 
50b 
 
 FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 This way the jam is greatly superior in colour and flavour 
 to that which is made by putting the sugar in at first. 
 
 Another way.—Take four parts picked raspberries and one 
 of red currant juice, with equal weight of sugar. Put on half 
 the sugar with a little water. Skim this and add the fruit. 
 Boil for fifteen minutes, add the other half of the sugar, and 
 boil for another five minutes, and when cold pot the jam. 
 This and all other jams may be made with less sugar, if they 
 are longer boiled; but both colour and quality will suffer ivt 
 the process. 
 
 Strawberry Jam. 
 
 Gather fine scarlet strawberries quite ripe. Bruise them, 
 and put about a sixth part of red currant juice to them. 
 Take nearly an equal weight of sugar sifted, and strew it over 
 them in the preserving pan ; boil for fifteen minutes; pot, and 
 cover with brandy papers when cold. 
 
 Gooseberry and Black Currant Jam. 
 
 Take equal weight of pounded lump sugar and picked fruit. 
 Strew the sugar over the fruit in the preserving pan, and put 
 a little water into it. Boil and skim. Lift a little of the 
 juice and fruit when the fruit has boiled for about twelve 
 minutes, and set it to cool on a plate. If the juice runs off 
 the jam must be boiled longer. If it jellies, it is enough. 
 
 Gooseberry Jam for Tarts. 
 
 Put twelve pounds of the red hairy gooseberries, when ripe 
 and gathered in dry weather, into a preserving pan, with a 
 pint of currant juice, drawn as for jelly; let them boil pretty 
 quick, and beat them with the spoon; when they begin to 
 break, put to them six pounds of pure white Lisbon sugar, 
 and simmer slowly to a jam. It requires long boiling, or will 
 not keep; but is an excellent and reasonable thing foi tarts 
 or puffs. Look at it in two or three days, and if the syrup 
 and fruit separate, the whole must be boiled longer. Be care¬ 
 ful it does not burn to the bottom. 
 
i 
 
 Fl{ l! ITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE 507 
 
 White Gooseberry Jam. 
 
 Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if you 
 choose, when just ripe; top and tail them. To each pound 
 put three quarters of a pound of fine sugar, and half a pint of 
 water. Boil and clarify the sugar in the water as directed in 
 page 501; then add the fruit; simmer gently till clear, then 
 break it, and in a few minutes put the jam into small pots. 
 
 To preserve Green Apricots. 
 
 Take them when they are about the size of a large nutmeg, 
 and put them into a skillet of cold water, with a handful of 
 vine leaves under them, and another above them; put in a 
 small knob of alum and cover them close down ; set them over 
 a very gentle fire, just to keep hot till they are done white. 
 You may know by this rule 5 —when they are first hot they 
 will look yellow, and when they are done they will turn green 
 again ; then take their weight in double-refined sugar, and 
 finish them the same as you do your gooseberries. 
 
 To preserve ripe Apricots. 
 
 Peel them very thin, split and stone, and as you do each 
 put it into a basin or dish, sprinkle over a little double-refined 
 suo-ar: when all are done, strew them with their weight in sugar, 
 let them stand by for 10 or 12 hours; then set them over a 
 very gentle fire, and boil them softly till they are tender and 
 clear; then put them in glasses; pour the syrup to them, 
 and tie them down. 
 
 To make Jam or Marmalade of Apricots. 
 
 Take the apricots when ripe, pare them as thin as possible, 
 cut them in thin slices, and put into a preserving pan or skil¬ 
 let, with half the weight in double refined sugar, and simmer 
 it together, keeping it stirred till it will cleave from the bot¬ 
 tom ; then put it in glasses. 
 
 Marmalade of Quinces or Pippins. 
 
 First peel and boil them tender; then scrape off all the 
 
508 
 
 FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 pulp from the core, and pass it into a skillet, with its weight 
 in fine sugar, and boil till it will cleave from the bottom; then, 
 put in a little cochineal, beaten fine, and let it boil some time 
 longer, till you see it of a good red: then put it up for 
 use 
 
 To preserve Lemons or Oranges. 
 
 if the latter they must be of the right Seville kind. Of 
 either, choose the thickest rind you can get; pare them as thin 
 as possible, then put them in water and let them remain in it 
 two days ; then boil them, in a great deal of water, very ten¬ 
 der; then take out the meat, and put it in a deep pan or 
 basin; pour to them as much syrup as will cover them, or 
 rather more, and heat them up scalding hot three or four 
 times, once every day ; then put them in glasses, and boil up 
 the syrup to pour over them. 
 
 Another way.—Take some of the largest Seville oranges 
 or lemons, scrape them with a piece of broken glass, put them 
 in soft water for ten days, changing the water daily, boil them 
 till tender, then put them in cold water; let them stand till 
 the next day. Make a syrup in the following manner:— 
 allow for each pound of oranges two pounds of loaf sugar, and 
 half a pint of water to each pound; make a small hole in the 
 top of the oranges and put them in, first clarifying the syrup; 
 boil them half an hour, let them stand four days, take them 
 out, and boil the syrup till thick; put in the oranges and boil 
 an hour, let them remain four days; if it continue thick they 
 may be put into pots and tied down ; if thin, must be boiled 
 a^ain. 
 
 <o 
 
 To preserve Cherries. 
 
 For this purpose choose the finest Morello cherries. You 
 may either stone them or leave them whole, cutting the 
 stalk half way, but, at all events, as much as possible avoid 
 bruising the fruit; then take one pint of the juice of currant 
 and one pound and a half of double-refined sugar; boil tht 
 juice and sugar together a little time, and skim it clean; then 
 put in as many cherries as the syrup will cover, and heat them 
 
FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 309 
 
 up scalding hot three or four times ; then put them in glasses; 
 boil the syrup sufficiently, and pour it to them. 
 
 To preserve Damsons for Tarts. 
 
 Put them into an earthen jar and set them in a slack oven 
 till they begin to crack, then take out the pot, and to every 
 quart allow half a pound of sugar ; lay the sugar all over 
 them, and before it is dissolved pour over the top a cake of 
 melted mutton fat, and tie them down. 
 
 To preserve Damsons or Plumbs for Sweetmeats. 
 
 Take the largest damsons you can get, (or green-gages, 
 Orleans, or apricot plums,) and with a penknife, cut down the 
 outer skin on one side ; then take their weight in double- 
 refined sugar; put it into a preserving pan, with water suffi¬ 
 cient to wet it; boil it up, and clarify with the white of an egg 
 and skim it clean off; then set by the syrup till lukewarm, 
 when the fruit is to be added, and make the whole scalding 
 hot. This process is to be repeated three or four times, at a 
 day’s interval; then let them boil up; put the fruit into 
 glasses; continue to boil the syrup till it is a of a proper 
 thickness, and pour over. Let them be tied down very 
 securely with bladders, or stopped with corks and waxed. 
 
 Italian Cheese. 
 
 Squeeze into a jar four lemons, add the rind of two grated, 
 half a pound of fine sugar, four spoonfulls of white wine and 
 two of brandy, and a quart and half a pint of cream ; whip all 
 together with a whisk till very thick; then put in a cloth, 
 first wet with spring water; lay it in a small sieve to drain 
 twenty-four hours; turn it out, and garnish with citron or 
 orange peel, or any other garnish that you may fancy. 
 
 Quince Marmalade. 
 
 Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quantity ot 
 sugar. To four pounds of the latter put a quart of water; 
 boil and skim, and have ready, against four pounds of quinces 
 are tolerably tender by the following mode:—lay them in a 
 
510 
 
 FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 stone jar, with a tea cup of water at the bottom, and pack 
 them with a little sugar strewed between; cover the jar close 
 and set it on a stove or cool oven, and let them soften till the 
 colour becomes red; then pour the fruit-syrup and a quart of 
 quince-juice into the preserving pan, and boil all together 
 till the marmalade be completed, breaking the lumps of fruit 
 with the preserving ladle. 
 
 This fruit is so hard that if it is not done as above it 
 requires a great deal of time. 
 
 Apricot and Plum Jam. 
 
 Stone and skin the fruit. Scald them in a little water m 
 an earthenware or stone vessel. Rub them through a coarse 
 sieve, or mash them in a bowl. Take equal weights of pulp 
 and pounded loaf sugar, and boil the jam for fifteen minutes in 
 a preserving pan, stirring and skimming it. The bruised 
 kernels of the fruit, or a few bitter almonds blanched and 
 bruised, may be put in to flavour the jam. Peach, Nectarine, 
 and Quince jam, for puddings and tarts, may be made in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Observations .—Jams should be quickly boiled to retain a 
 good colour. Care must be taken that the thicker sorts do 
 not stick to the pan. 
 
 Scotch Orange Chip Marmalade. 
 
 Take an equal weight of fine loaf sugar and Seville 
 oranges. Wipe and grate the oranges, but not too much. 
 [The grate boiled up with sugar will make an excellent con¬ 
 serve for rice, custard, or batter puddings.] Cut the oranges 
 the long way, and squeeze out the juice through a small sieve. 
 Scrape off the pulp from the inner skins, and pick out the 
 seeds. Boil the skins till perfectly tender, changing the 
 water to take off part of the bitter. When cool scrape the 
 coarse white thready part, from the skins, and cut them into 
 chips. Clarify the sugar, and put the chips, pulp, and juico to 
 it. Add, when boiled for ten minutes, the juice and grate of 
 two lemons to every dozen of oranges. Skim and boil for 
 twenty minutes. 
 
FfUTITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 511 
 
 There are various other ways of making this mar. 
 malade. The half of the boiled skins mav te pounded 
 before they are mixed; and if the chips look too numerous, 
 part of them may be withheld. The orange grate, if a strong 
 flavour is wanted, may either be used in substance, or infused, 
 and the tincture strained and added to the marmalade when 
 boiling. Where marmalade is made in large quantities for 
 exportation, the various articles are prepared and put at once 
 into a thin syrup, and boiled for from four to six hours. 
 Orange marmalade may be thinned with apple jelly. 
 
 Smooth Orange Marmalade. 
 
 This is made as above, only the skins, instead of being cut 
 into chips, must be pounded in a mortar, and gradually mixed 
 with the syrup,—withholding a part, if the marmalade be in 
 danger of becoming too thick. 
 
 t> O 
 
 Transparent Orange Marmalade. 
 
 Use the juice and pulp of the fruit only. Wash the lat¬ 
 ter in a very little water, and strain it to the juice. Take a 
 pound or rather more of refined sugar to the pint of juice, 
 and boil it to the 2d degree. Put the juice to it, and boil 
 and skim well for tw’elve minutes. 
 
 Lemon marmalade may be made in the same manner. 
 
 Black Butter, a cheap preserve. 
 
 Pick currants, gooseberries, strawberries, or whatever fruit 
 you have; and to every two pounds of fruit put one of sugar, 
 and boil till a good deal reduced. 
 
 Cheap Method of Preserving Bruit for Puddings. 
 
 Pare apples, pears, plums; or pick whatever sort of fruit 
 you have, and place it in a stone jar, with as much Lisbon or 
 brown sugar as will sweeten it. Bake in a cool oven till 
 done. It will eat with rice or with bread, make pasties, &c. 
 
 To Preserve Bruit without Sugar for Pies, Puddings, Sfc. 
 
 Gather Morello cherries, green gages, currants in bunches, 
 green gooseberries, &c. not over ripe; and pick them as soon, 
 
512 
 
 FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 and as gently as possible. All bruised ones must be laid 
 aside. Drop them softly into wide mouthed short necked 
 glass bottles, and shake the bottles that the fruit may lie com¬ 
 pactly. Stop the bottles with good corks, and set them in a 
 slow oven till the fruit begins to shrivel. Take them out, 
 and in a little while make the corks firm, dip them in bottle 
 rosin, and keep till wanted. 
 
 To Preserve Cherries. 
 
 Pick fine ripe Morello cherries on a dry day. Cut the 
 stalks about half way off, and take care not to bruise the 
 fruit; then put them into a jar or bottle. When it is full 
 scatter a little lump sugar over the top, and pour in a little 
 brandy and tie them down close. These will eat like fresh 
 cherries, and keep their colour and taste for a year. 
 
 Black Currant Lozenges. 
 
 Gather the currants when full ripe and dry ; pick them 
 and put in a ’ar stopped close; set the jar in a saucepan of 
 water to simmer gently until the juice separates; then press 
 them quite dry, and add to three quarts of juice one ounce of 
 cream of tartar, half a pound of fine sugar, and one ounce of 
 gum arabic. Boil it to the consistence of damson cheese, then 
 pour it out in dishes the thickness of the lozenge, and put them 
 in the sun or before the fire to dry. * When they begin to 
 harden, turn them and when they become dry, cut them in 
 squares, and put them in writing paper; shake a little mag¬ 
 nesia on the papers, to keep them from sticking, and keep 
 them in a dry place. The gum must be beaten fine, and 
 gradually mixed with a small quantity of the boiling juice, 
 otherwise it is very difficult to dissolve. 
 
 To Preserve Greengages. 
 
 Choose the largest, when they begin to soften ; split them 
 without paring, and strewapart of the sugar of which you should 
 have previously weighed an equal quantity. Blanch the kernels 
 with a small sharp knife. Next day, pour the syrup from the 
 fruit, and boil it with the other sugar, six or eight minutes, 
 very gently ; skim and add the plums and kernels. Simmer 
 
FRUITS PRESERVED FOR WINTER USE. 513 
 
 till clear, taking ofi: any scum that rises; put the fruit singly 
 into smart pots, and pour the syrup and kernels to it. If 
 you would candy it, do not add the syrup, but observe the 
 directions that will be given for candying fruit; some may 
 he done each way. 
 
 Damson Cheese. 
 
 JBake or boil the fruit in a stone jar in a saucepan of water, 
 cr on a hot hearth. Pour off some of the juice, and to every 
 two pounds of fruit weigh half a pound of sugar. Set the 
 fruit over a fire in the pan, let it boil quickly till it begin to 
 look dry; take out the stones, and add the sugar, stir it well 
 in, and simmer two hours slowly, then boil it quickly half an 
 hour, till the sides of the pan candy; pour the jam then into 
 potting-pans or dishes about an inch thick, so that it may cut 
 firm. If the skins be disliked, then the juice is not to be 
 
 taken out; but after the first process, the fruit is to be 
 
 pulped through a very coarse sieve with the juice, and ma¬ 
 naged as above. The stones are to be cracked, or some of 
 
 them, and the kernels boiled in the jam. All the juice 
 may be left in, and boiled to evaporate, but don’t add the 
 sugar until it has done so. The above looks well in 
 shapes. 
 
 Muscle-plum Clieese. 
 
 Weigh six pounds of the fruit, bake it in a stone jar, 
 remove the stones, and take out the kernels to put in. Pour 
 half the juice on two pounds and a half of good Lisbon , 
 when melted and simmered a few minutes, skim it, and add 
 the fruit. Keep it doing very gently till the juice is much 
 evaporated, taking care to st/x it constantly, lest it burn. 
 Pour it into small moulds, patty-pans, or saucers. The 
 remaining juice may serve to colour cream, or be added to a 
 pie. 
 
 Biscuits of Fruit. 
 
 To the pulp of any scalded fruit put ar. equal weight of 
 sugar sifted, beat it two hours, then put it into little white 
 h %2 3 u 
 
t 
 
 614 FRUITS PRESEVRED FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 paper forms, dry iu a cool oven, turn the next day, and ui two 
 or three days box them. 
 
 Lemon Drops. 
 
 Grate three large lemons, with a large piece of double-re¬ 
 fined sugar; then scrape the sugar into a plate, add half a 
 tea-spoonful of flour, mix well, and beat it into a light paste 
 with the white of an egg. Drop it upon white paper, and 
 put them into a moderate oven on a tin plate. 
 
 Barberry Drops. 
 
 The black tops must be cut of; then roast the fruit before 
 the fire, till soft enough to pulp with a silver spoon through 
 a sieve into a china basin; then set the basin in a saucepan 
 of water, the top of which will just fit it, or on a hot hearth, and 
 stir it till it grows thick. When cold, put to every pint a 
 pound and a half of sugar, the finest double-refined, pounded 
 ana sifted through a lawn sieve, which must be covered with 
 a fine linen, to prevent its wasting while sifting. Beat the 
 sugar and juice together three hours and a half in a large 
 quantity, but two and a half for less; then drop it on 
 sheets of white thick paper, the size of the drops sold in the 
 shops. 
 
 Some fruit is not so sour, and then less sugar is necessary. 
 
 To know if there be enough, mix till well incorporated, 
 and then drop ; if it run, there is not enough sugar, and it 
 there is too much it will be rough. A dry room will suffice 
 to dry them. No metal must touch the juice but the poiht 
 of a silver knife, just to take the drop off the end of the wooden 
 spoon, and then a» little as possible. 
 
C 315 7 
 
 1*0 PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS. 
 
 Cherries, plums of all sorts, and American apples, gather 
 when ripe, and lay them in small jars that will hold a pound; 
 strew over each jar six ounces of good loaf-sugar pounded; 
 cover with two bladders each, separately tied down ; then set 
 the jars in a large stew-pan of water up to the neck, and let it 
 boil three hours gently. Keep these and all other sorts of 
 fruit free from damp. 
 
 Magnum Bonum Plumbs for Sweetmeats or Tarts . 
 
 Prick them with a needle to prevent bursting, simmer 
 them very gently in a thin syrup, put them in a china bowl, 
 and when cold pour it over. Let them lie three days ; then 
 make a syrup of three pounds of sugar to five of fruit, with no 
 more water than hangs to large lumps of the sugar dipped 
 quickly, and instantly brought out. Boil the plums in this 
 fresh syrup, after draining the first from them. Do them 
 very gently till they are clear, ar.d the syrup adheres to them. 
 Put them one by one into small pots, and pour the liquor 
 over. If you like to dry part, keep a little of the syrup longer in 
 the pan, for that purpose, and boil it quickly ; then give the fruit 
 one warm more, drain, and put them to dry on plates in a cool 
 oven. Th ese plums are apt to ferment, if not boiled in two 
 syrups; the former will sweeten pies, but will have too much 
 acid to keep. You may reserve part of it, and add a little 
 sugar, for those that are to dry; for they will not require to 
 he so sweet as if kept wet, and will eat very nicely if only 
 boiled as much as those. Don’t break them. One parcel 
 may be done after another, and save much sugar. 
 
 Jargonal Pears. 
 
 Take large, finely shaped pears, and pare them very 
 •noothly though finely. Simmer them in a thin syrup, and 
 t them lie in this syrup in a covered tureen or basin tor a 
 
516 TO PRESERVE FRUIT TVV TARTS OR DESSERT8. 
 
 day or two. See that they are covered with the syrup. Drain 
 off the syrup, and put more sugar to it. Clarify it, and 
 simmer the nears till they look transparent. T&ice them up, 
 ana po-ur tire syrup over them. About a fouttti more 
 suo-ar than the weight of the fruit is the requisite quail- 
 tity. 
 
 The syrm ucy be flavoured with the juice of lemons. The 
 pears may either be served dry, by drying them in the sun, 
 or in a slow oven when wanted j or in the syrup, which is 
 both better, and more economical, as the fiuit that is not 
 used can be potted up afresh. If the seeds of this and of all 
 preserved fruits are picked out, which may be done by an 
 opening at both ends that will allow an ivory bodkin to be 
 introduced, they will keep much better. Pears are preserved 
 red, by putting a grain or two of powdered cochineal into 
 the syrup, and pouring red gooseberry or currant jelly over 
 them. 
 
 v 
 
 Prepared Apples for present use. 
 
 Clarify fine sugar, and boil nicely pared and cored 
 pippins in it, with a little lemon juice. Serve in a glass or 
 china dish, with the syrup about them, and garnish with 
 bunches of preserved barberries, or sprigs of myrtle. 
 
 Red Apples 
 
 Served in jelly are made nearly as above. Pare and core 
 the most beautiful pippins you can get, but leave the stalks. 
 Throw them into a pan of water to keep the colour good ; 
 boil them in a very little water, and turn them. Mix cochi¬ 
 neal with the water. When done, dish them heads down- 
 most, and put sugar to the red water, with the rind of a le¬ 
 mon, and boil it till it jellies. Strain it, and when cold 
 scoop it up neatly with a tea-spoon, and lay it among the ap¬ 
 ples in heaps, like roughed calves’ feet jelly. Garnish with 
 sprigs of myrtle, rings of lemon rind, &c. 
 
 To preserve Apricots. 
 
 Always choose the finest fruit for preserving. Stone and 
 pare the apricots, keeping them as firm and entire as possible. 
 
TO PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS. 517 
 
 Take above their own weight of pounded sugar, and strew it 
 over them for a night, laying the slit upmost to keep in the 
 juices of the fruit. Break the stones, and blanch what are 
 good of the kernels. Simmer the whole gently till the fruit looks 
 transparent. Skim carefully, and lift out the fruit into pots, pour 
 the syrup and kernels over them, and cover when cold:—or, 
 they may be preserved in apple jelly; or greened, by putting 
 a bit of alum, about the size of a large nutmeg, into the water 
 in which they are alternately scalded and cooled, till they take 
 the desired colour. Peaches and greengages may be preserved 
 as above. 
 
 Sugar for preserved fruit must be boiled to the second or 
 third degree. The fruit should be looked at for the first 
 month, and if needful, the syrup may be boiled up, allowed 
 to cool, and again be put over them. 
 
 Magnum Bonum Plumbs. 
 
 Do them as directed for apricots, and be sure that the 
 syrup is well clarified and well skimmed, and that the first 
 simmering is slow and short, or else instead of looking clear 
 and plump, the fruit will shrink and shrivel in spite of what¬ 
 ever may be afterwards done to plump it. 
 
 A bit of the stalk left is thought an improvement to the 
 appearance of those preserved fruits. 
 
 To preserve lied Gooseberries. 
 
 Clip off the top of each berry, and take weight for weight 
 of fine sugar. Clarify the sugar, and put the fruit to it, 
 having made a slit with a needle in each berry to let the 
 sugar° penetrate the fruit. Skim well, and when the skins 
 look very transparent take up the fruit with a sugar skimmer 
 into glasses or pots. Boil the syrup till it will jelly, (if the 
 fruit were boiled so long it would become leathery.) Strain it 
 through a fine sieve, and pour it on the berries. This is a 
 cheap° and beautiful preserve. Green gascoignes may be 
 done in the same manner, first greening them as directed for 
 pickles, with alum and vine, or cabbage leaves, though thia at 
 
518 TO PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS 
 
 best is, we confess, a suspicious process. The seeds must be 
 picked out of those green gooseberries, or they will not look 
 nearly so well. 
 
 To preserve Cherries. 
 
 Take a fourth more of sugar than of Morelia cherries. 
 Cut the stalks; take out the stones with a silver toothpick or 
 bodkin as gently as possible; or if this be too troublesome 
 prick the fruit with a needle. Clarify the sugar, and put to 
 it a half pint of red or white currant jelly ; and when this has 
 boiled for five minutes put in the cherries, and let them sim¬ 
 mer till they look bright. 
 
 Dried Cherries. 
 
 Take out the stones, and give them a slow boil in a thin 
 syrup. Let them remain in this for a day, and scald them 
 again and again, making the syrup gradually richer. When 
 they look bright and plump pot them up in the syrup; and 
 when wanted drain and dry them on a stove or wire sieve, or 
 in a very cool oven. Cherries, peaches, apricots, &c. may be 
 preserved in brandy with great ease. Prick them with a 
 needle, and drop them into wide mouthed bottles, with some 
 fine sugar. Fill up with brandy, and cork and place the 
 bottles in a hot water bath or cool oven for some hours. 
 
 To preserve Cucumbers. 
 
 Take fine young gherkins of two or three different sizes, 
 put them into ajar, cover them with vine leaves, fill the jar 
 with spring water, cover it close, let it stand near the fire ten 
 days or a fortnight; then take them out, and throw them 
 into cold spring water; they will look quite yellow and smell 
 bad, but that need not be regarded. Take them out of the 
 water and put them into the preserving pan, cover them well 
 with vine leaves, fill the pan with spring water, set it over a 
 charcoal fire covered close; when they begin to turn green, 
 take off the vine leaves and throw the cucumbers into a large 
 »ev-6, then into a coarse cloth four or five times double; when 
 
TO PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS. 510 
 
 coW, put them into a jar; liave ready a syrup made of fino 
 sugar, in which boil a great deal of lemon-peel shaved very 
 fine, and whole ginger; pour it over hot, and cover them 
 down close. Boil the syrup three times. 
 
 Another way.—Lay the cucumbers in a weak pickle of 
 salt and water for two days, and then for the same length of 
 time in fresh water, changing it twice. Green them as di¬ 
 rected for pickles, and strew a bit of alum over them to assist 
 the process. When alternately scalded and cooled till they 
 look of a fine green, boil them for a few minutes in water with 
 fresh leaves above and below them, and when cool cut a bit 
 out of the flat side, and scrape out the seeds and pulp. Dry 
 the fruit gently in a cloth, and put into the inside a season¬ 
 ing of bruised cloves, sliced ginger, thin lemon rind, mace, 
 and a few white pepper corns. Tie in the bit cut out with a 
 piece of narrow tape. To every pound of fruit clarify a 
 pound of sugar, and when cold pour it over them. Press 
 them down with a plate on which a weight is placed, that they 
 may be covered ; and when they have soaked two days, boil 
 up the syrup, adding one half more of clarified sugar to it. 
 Repeat the soaking and boiling up of the syrup three more 
 times during a fortnight, and last of all, add to it the juice 
 and fine grate of two lemons for every six cucumbers, and 
 boiling them in it for ten minutes pot them up. They may 
 be preserved by a more simple process, by cutting them in 
 quarters, but look best when done whole and served in a 
 glass dish. A little pine-apple rum put to the syrup gives 
 the flavour of West India sweatmeats. Melons are preserved 
 in the above manner, and also whole Seville oranges, first 
 carving the skins of the oranges with a sharp knife in form of 
 leaves, flowers, &c. or of a pine apple ; when steeped, the 
 inside must be scooped out, by cutting a large hole at the 
 top for this purpose. The great art in preserving fruit is to 
 avoid having the syrup too rich at first, which would infallibly 
 shrivel them, particularly if they be boiled in it, or have it 
 poured hot over them. 
 
 Several pretty dishes are made with Dreserved oranges. 
 They may be filled with rich custard, with calves' feet jeliv. 
 
620 TO fc*JlESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS- 
 
 or other jellies, or with a mixture of best almonds, sugar, 
 cream, and seasonings. 
 
 To preserve Strawberries. 
 
 Sprinkle sifted fine sugar, equal to half their own weight, 
 over the finest fruit of the scarlet kind, no<- over ripe. 
 When they have laid in this for a night, take as much sugar 
 again; or in all equal weight to the fruit, and with currant 
 juice, make it into a thin syrup, and simmer the fruit in this 
 rill it will jelly. Serve in cream, or in a glass dish. 
 
 To candy any sort of Fruit. 
 
 When finished in the syrup, put a layer into a new sieve, 
 and dip it suddenly into hot water, to take off the syrup that 
 hangs about it: put it on a napkin before the fire to drain, 
 and then do some more in the sieve. Have ready sifted 
 double-refined sugar, which sift over the fruit on all sides till 
 quite white. Set it on the shallow end of sieves in a lightly 
 warm oven, and turn it two or three times. It must not be 
 cold till dry. Watch it carefully, and it will be beautiful. 
 
 To prepare Barberries for Tartlets. 
 
 Pick barberries that have no stones, from the stalks, and 
 to every pound weight add three quarters of a pound of lump- 
 sugar: put the fruit into a stone jar, and either set it on a 
 hot hearth, or in a saucepan of water, and let them simmer 
 very slowly till soft; put them and the sugar into a preserving 
 pan, and boil them gently fifteen minutes. Use no metal 
 but silver. 
 
 Barberries in bunches. 
 
 Have ready bits of flat white wood, three inches long, 
 and a quarter of an inch wide. Tie the stalks of the fruits 
 on the stick from within an inch of one end to beyond the 
 other, so as to make them look handsome. Simmer them in 
 ~«ne syrup two successive days, covering them each time with 
 
TO PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS. 52J 
 
 it when cold. When they look clear they are simmered 
 enough. The third day, do them like other candy fruit ; 
 See recipe for it above. 
 
 To candy Cherries. 
 
 Get them before they are full ripe, stone them, and having 
 boiled your fine sugar to a proper height, pour it on them, gently 
 moving them, and so let them stand till almost cold; then take 
 them out, and dry them by the fire. 
 
 To candy Orange or Lemon Peels. 
 
 Having steeped your orange peels, as often as you should 
 judge convenient, in water, to take away the bitterness; then 
 let them be gently dried and candied with syrup made of 
 sugar. 
 
 To candy Apricots. 
 
 You must slit them on the side of the stone, and put fine 
 sugar on them, then lay them one by one in a dish and bake 
 them in a pretty hot oven, then take them out of the dish, 
 and dry them on glass plates in an oven for three or four 
 days. 
 
 To preserve Strawberries whole. 
 
 Gather your strawberries very dry, lay them separate on a 
 dish; to every two pounds of fruit put three pounds of loaf 
 sugar, pound and sift it, strew part of the sugar over them, 
 then take a few scarlet strawberries, put them into a jar and 
 set them in a pot of boiling water, then strain it through a 
 piece of muslin, into a preserving pan, put what remains of 
 your sugar into the pan to the juice also, the sugar that is 
 upon the dish but not the fruit; boil and skim it well, and 
 when it is cold put in your fruit; just let them simmer and 
 put them away till the next day, then give them a gentle boil 
 till they look clean, take the fruit out gently, put them into 
 your pots, add to it your syrup and skim it well, and when 
 cold pour it over them. 
 
 c 22 3 x 
 
ftS'i ro PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS. 
 
 To dry Orange Peel . 
 
 Boil them first in two waters till they are tender and the, 
 bitterness almost off; add the weight of the peels in white 
 sugar, as little waters will wet the sugar; boil them to a 
 caudy, take them out of the syrup and dry them in a cool oven. 
 
 To bottle Gooseberries. 
 
 Have them gathered when fully grown and just before 
 they turn; be very careful in topping and tailing not to 
 break the fruit. Fill wide mouthed bottles up to the neck, 
 shaking them down that they may lie close;—put to each a 
 wine glass full of water, tie them over with bladders, stand 
 them in a large pot or copper with ccld water to reach the 
 necks of the bottles; put fire under and let them boil, when 
 the bladders rise and puff, prick them; when the water boils 
 round the bottles, remove the fire and let it become cold, 
 the bottles still standing in: when quite cold remove the 
 bladder, lay fine powdered sugar over the top, put a 
 spoonful of brandy on each, cork tight and seal the cork 
 with bottle rosin. 
 
 Another way.-—Before they become too large, let them be 
 gathered, and take* care not to cut them in taking off the 
 stalks and buds. Fill wide mouthed bottles: put the corks 
 loosely in, and set the bottles up to the neck in water in a 
 boiler. When the fruit looks scalded, take them out; and 
 when perfectly cold, cork close, and rosin the top. F)ig a 
 trench in a part of the garden least used, sufficiently deep for 
 all the bottles to stand, and let the earth be thrown over, to 
 cover them a foot and a half. When a frost comes on, a 
 little fresh litter from the stable will prevent the ground from 
 hardening so that the fruit cannot be dug up. Or, scald as 
 above; when cold, fill the bottles with cold water, cork them, 
 and keep them in a damp or dry place; they will not be 
 spoiled. 
 
 Another way.—In the size and preparation as above; 
 when done, have boiling water ready, either in a boiler or 
 large kettle; and put into it as much roach-alum as will 
 when dissolved, harden the water, which you will know by a 
 
TO PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS. 523 
 
 little roughness : if there be too much it will spoil the fruit. 
 Put as many gooseberries into a large sieve as will lie at the 
 bottom without covering one another. Hold the sieve in 
 the water till the fruit begins to look scalded on the out¬ 
 side ; then turn them gently out of the sieve on a cloth on 
 the dresser, cover them with another cloth, and put some more 
 to be scalded, and so on till all be finished. Observe not to 
 put one quantity on another, or they will become too soft. 
 The next day pick out any bad or broken ones, bottle the 
 rest, and fill up the bottles with the alum-water in which they 
 were scalded ; which must be kept in the bottles ; for if left 
 in the kettle, or in a glazed pan, it will spoil. Stop them 
 close. 
 
 The water must boil all the time the process is carrying 
 on. Gooseberries done this way make as fine tarts as fresh 
 off the trees. 
 
 Another way.—In dry weather pick the gooseberries tl^at 
 are full grown, but not ripe; top and tail them, and put into 
 open-mouthed bottles; gently cork them with new velvet 
 corks ; put them in the oven when the bread is drawn, and 
 let them stand till shrunk a quarter part; take them out of 
 the oven, and immediately beat the corks in tight, cut oft the 
 tops, and rosin down close; set them in a dry place ; and if 
 well secured from air they will keep the year round. 
 
 To keep Currants. 
 
 The bottles being perfectly clean and dry, let the currants 
 be cut from the large stalks with the smallest bit of stalk to 
 each, that the fruit not being wounded, no moisture may be 
 among them. It is necessary to gather them when the wea¬ 
 ther is quite dry : and it is best to cut them under the trees, 
 and let them drop gently into the bottles. 
 
 Stop up the bottles with cork and rosin, and put them 
 into the trench in the garden with the neck downwards: 
 sticks should be placed opposite to where each sort of fruit 
 begins. 
 
 Cherries and damsons keep in the same way. 
 
 Currants may be scalded, as directed for gooseberries, the 
 rst method. 
 
524 TO PRESERVE FRUIT FOR TARTS OR DESSERTS. 
 
 To preserve Fruit green all the Year. 
 
 Gather your fruit when three parts ripe on a very dry day, 
 when the sun shines on them ; then take earthen pots and 
 put them in, cover the pots with corks, or bung them that 
 no air can get into them; dig a place in the earth a yard 
 deep, set the pots therein and cover them with the earth very 
 close, and keep them for use. When you take any out, cover 
 them up again as at first. 
 
 To keep Gooseberries , Damsons , Bullace , Plumbs , and 
 Cherries in Bottles. 
 
 Take gooseberries green ; the other sorts before they be 
 too ripe, put them in wide-mouthed bottles, set them in a 
 gentle oven till the skins change colour. When cold 
 cork them down tight, and melt some rosin on the top. 
 
 To keep Kidney Beans to boil Green all the Winter. 
 
 Take the middle sized beans, throw them in boiling water 
 with a good handful of salt, let them boil about two minutes, 
 then immediately take them out and dry them on a cloth. 
 In the mean time, put into that water a great deal more salt 
 to make a strong brine of it; boil it up and pour into a deep 
 earthen pot; and when it is cold, put in your beans and pour 
 over a cake of mutton fat. 
 
 Toenata, or Love Apple for Sauce. 
 
 Take the tomata when quite ripe and bake them till they 
 are perfectly soft as a roasted apple, then take the pulp and 
 rub it through a sieve, put as much vinegar as will make it 
 a proper liquid, and salt it to your taste; put to it one ounce 
 of garlick, two ounces of shalot to each quart, shaving the 
 garlic very thin ; boil it all together for a quarter of an hour 
 and skim it well, then strain it through a sieve and take out 
 the garlick, and shalots; let it stand till cold, then bottle it. 
 If when the bottles are opened it is found to be fermented, 
 put more salt to it and boil it again ; if it is perfectly good, 
 it should when poured out be the thickness of rich cream. 
 
I 525 ] 
 
 t A’. • {*» 
 
 TO PRESERVE FRUIT FRESH ALL THE YEAR. 
 
 Beat well up together equal quantities of honey and com¬ 
 mon water, pour it into an earthen vessel, put in the fruits all 
 freshly gathered, and cover them up quite close. When any 
 of the fruit is taken out, wash it in cold water, and it is fit for 
 immediate use. This method will apply to apricots, peaches, 
 nectarines, greengages, plumbs in general, jargonal pears and 
 figs. 
 
 
 THE FRENCH METHODS OF PRESERVING VEGE¬ 
 TABLES FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 To preserve Kidney Beans. 
 
 Prepare the beans, which ought to be young and tender, 
 by taking off the two ends, throwing aside all that are hard or 
 blemished; put them into fresh water; have water with a 
 handful of salt boiling on a quick fire ; put them in, give 
 them two boils, and then put them into cold water; drain 
 well, and arrange them in proper jars; fill them up with a 
 strong pickle of salt and water; cover them with good oil, 
 and stop them with corks; tie paper and parchment over, and 
 put them in a cool dry place; serve them as new beans ; 
 freshen, blanch, and cook them in a brass pan. 
 
 To preserve Cucumbers. 
 
 Take them well grown, but not quite ripe; cut off the 
 ends, pare them and cut them in four; take out the seeds. 
 Strew the jars with salt, and pack in the cucumbers, strewing 
 salt upon every layer till they are full, covering the whole 
 
526 THB FRENCH METHOD OF PRESERVING 
 
 wkh it; cover them with brine, without however putting 
 e. ;her butter or oil, or any other fat substance; put them in 
 fresh water the evening before using them ; dress them at if 
 fresh. 
 
 To preserve Beans , or Green Peas . 
 
 Choose the smallest, tender, and freshly shelled; put them 
 into very nicely cleaned bottles; do not press them together, 
 but rather leave a little space; stop them with good new 
 corks; fix them down with wire before you put them into the 
 water; put them into a boiler of fresh cold water; put to it a 
 moderate fire, and let them remain till the water boils; leave 
 them then an hour to simmer; take the boiler off the fire, and 
 let them cool in the water ; take them out, and rosin them as 
 directed for wine ; turn the bottles down in a bottle-rack, or 
 stick their necks down in the ground, and cover them with 
 earth. When used, blanch and cook them as new beans, 
 adding a little savory, which ought to be prepared in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner in its season. 
 
 Preserved Savory. 
 
 Clean and mince it; mix it in a sufficient quantity of clari¬ 
 fied sugar, and reduce to the consistence of a preserve ; cover 
 the pots with paper wet with spirits, and cover the whole care¬ 
 fully. When the beans are ready to serve, mix in a little of 
 this preserve. 
 
 To preserve Asparagus. 
 
 Take the finest to be had in the height of the season, 
 scrape and clean them, wash and tie them in bunches, cut 
 them of an equal length ; put a pot upon the fire filled three 
 parts with water, with a little salt, vinegar, pepper, and a few 
 cloves; when it boils, blanch them ; take them out, arrange 
 them in stone jars, and fill them up with a strong pickle of 
 salt and water; in some days pour off that pickle; boil and 
 skim it, and pour it again into the jars; in two or three days 
 cover them two inches with oil, and then with paper and 
 parchment; put them in a dry cool place ; three months after. 
 
VEGETABLES W'NTER USE. 
 
 527 
 
 make a new pickle; clarify it and let it cool; drain ard 
 put them anew in the fresh pickle, and also fresh oil; covit 
 the pots as before, and use them as new when there is oc¬ 
 casion. 
 
 To preserve Artichokes. 
 
 Prepare them as if intended to cook them whole; give 
 them a quick boil; take them off, and take out the choke 
 with a spoon; let them drain, and arrange them in pots; 
 have a very strong salt pickle, pour it over, and let them be 
 well covered; then put melted butter over: cover them as in 
 the preceding articles. 
 
 Another way.—Take artichokes and cut them in four or 
 six pieces, according to their size; take out the choke; 
 put them into boiling water, and let them boil five minutes, 
 put them into a salt pickle, and preserve them as the 
 others. 
 
 To preserve Artichoke Bottoms . 
 
 Boil the artichokes till the choke comes easily out, but 
 take care that they do not become too soft, as that would 
 prevent them from preserving; when they are prepared, 
 rub them with a lemon, put them in jars, and follow the same 
 process as for artichokes. 
 
 To preserve Tomates. 
 
 Take the quantity to be preserved, let them be ripe, and 
 of a fine colour; cut them in two ; express the juice, and 
 take out the seeds; then put them into a sweetmeat-pan that 
 is untinned ; put in a sufficient quantity of good white wine, 
 highly seasoned without any other liquid, and a sufficient 
 quantity of salt: reduce them to the thickness of cream, stir¬ 
 ring it constantly with a spatula; rub it through a search; 
 return it into an untinned or brass pan, and reduce it to the 
 consistence of apple marmalade; put it in pots, and in two 
 days cover it with clarified butter and oil paper : parchment 
 it, and keep as other preserves. 
 
[ S28 J 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 General Remarks. 
 
 Salt and vinegar, which enter into the composition of all 
 pickles, dissolve the lead that is used in tinning copper sauce¬ 
 pans, and in glazing earthen jars, which should therefore be 
 avoided. Nottingham ware stone jars are the best, indeed 
 the only proper things for large pickles. Glass bottles with 
 wide mouths answer very well for small pickles, such as nas¬ 
 turtiums, capers, &c.; and for heating vinegar, a stone jar on 
 the hot hearth is best, or a bell metal skillet. 
 
 Jars of a quart or three pints are preferable to those of a 
 larger size, as air is always injurious to pickles, and if a jar 
 is frequently opened and kept long in use, the vinegar is apt 
 to turn, and become turbid. Some persons who choose to 
 put each sort of pickle into one large jar, adopt the practice 
 of having small ones also, which are filled from the large ones 
 as required for present use. 
 
 Each jar should be covered first with a bladder, then with 
 leather or parchment, all perfectly dry, and tied down sepa¬ 
 rately. To avoid unnecessary opening, the name of each 
 pickle written on the outside leather or parchment; and some 
 mark by which to distinguish the jar of each kind in present 
 use. 
 
 In taking out pickles, metal spoons are to be avoided, as 
 they would both be injured by the vinegar, and injurious to it. 
 Each jar should have tied to it a wooden spoon with 
 holes, in addition to which the best thing for taking out the 
 vinegar is a very small earthen bowl (like that of a sauce 
 ladle) with a short handle. 
 
 Only a small quantity of each should be taken out at once, 
 no more than is likely to be eaten,—if any be left, it is 
 better not to return it to the jar, but to cover it up and use it 
 at the next meal. 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 529 
 
 Pieklc3 should be kept in a cool dry place. 
 
 'I’he vegetables intended for pickling should be sound, 
 firm, not over ripe, and gathered on a dry day; carefully 
 avoid letting them fall, or in any other way becoming bruised; 
 let them be gathered with the stalks, otherwise the juice 
 and flavour will exude and the article very soon perish. They 
 should be picked, and wiped very clean with a soft dry cloth; 
 but all washiug is to be avoided, except in those kinds of 
 vegetables that are to be steeped or scalded in water previous 
 to pickling; and by the way, it may be observed that such 
 are most apt to spoil. The vinegar, must be the very best 
 and strongest that can be procured; and a sufficient quantity 
 should be allowed to keep the whole contents of the jar per¬ 
 fectly covered. 
 
 One great part of the art of pickling consists in the articles 
 being done just enough, whether by simmering, pouring over 
 boiling vinegar, or in whatever way the process is to be ma¬ 
 naged; let them be done sufficiently to be tender and whole¬ 
 some, yet not so as to lose their crispness. 
 
 Another great concern is to have them of a good colour 
 and here it must be confessed that health has been often sa¬ 
 crificed to the eye. The very brilliant green so much ad¬ 
 mired in the pickles of those who prepare them for sale, is 
 known to be produced by verdigris, either in the form of 
 boiling them in brass or untinned copper vessels, or by putting 
 half-pence into boiling vinegar. These practices are often 
 denied and often detected. It need scarcely be stated that 
 they are pernicious in the extreme. A tolerable green may 
 be obtained by keeping the pickles a long time exposed tc - 
 the steam of vinegar, and more than this ought not to be 
 desired; a little pearl ash will help the colour, but its 
 alkaline quality destroys the fine acid of the vinegar; ora 
 very small quantity of powdered alum may be added, but 
 excess must be carefully avoided on account of the unpleasant 
 taste ; a red colour may be obtained by adding a few grains 
 of cochineal. However long vinegar is required to simmer, 
 it should never be allowed to boil, as no fomented liquor 
 can boil without great b*s of strength. Cold vinegar is 
 
 a 23 3 y 
 
580 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 apt to become ropy and thick if added to pickles, which re¬ 
 quire any boiling or addition of spices; but for nasturtium 
 buds, which require neither, the very best way of pickling 
 is merely to drop the buds, as soon as gathered, into a jar 
 with cold vinegar, keeping it covered with a saucer or some¬ 
 thing of the kind, and from day to day adding nasturtiums 
 and vinegar till the jar is full. Perhaps some other pickles 
 might be managed in the same way, especially radish pods, 
 which, like nasturtiums, should be gathered very young ; 
 this can scarcely be secured if it be attempted to fill a jar 
 at once. 
 
 As to spices, they are generally used as tending to coun¬ 
 teract the crudity and acidity of pickles. They should be 
 adapted in kind and degree to the quality and flavour of the 
 vegetable with which they are associated; onions, capsicums, 
 radish pods, and similar articles, being themselves of a hot 
 nature, require no addition of spices ; but some people choose 
 to add ginger, pepper, or mustard seeds, or all of them. 
 Cucumbers, cauliflowers, red cabbage, and Indian pickle re¬ 
 quire a good portion of spice; for the two former, ginger 
 and long or black pepper are the most suitable, to which some 
 people add mustard seeds, and a large onion stuck with 
 cloves. For red cabbage, allspice or Jamaica pepper, is 
 admitted; and for Indian pickles and walnuts a variety, 
 the exact proportions of which will be hereafter given. By 
 pounding the spices in a mortar, and steeping them in best 
 vinegar on the hod, a smaller quantity will suffice. 
 
 To preserve Spiced Vinegar for Pickles. 
 
 Bruise in a mortar three or four ounces of long pepper, 
 black pepper, white pepper, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace, 
 garlic, mustard, horseradish, shalots, and capsicums : put them 
 into a stone jar with a quari of the strongest vinegar; stop 
 the jar closely with a bung, cover that with a bladder soaked 
 with pickle; set it on a trivet by the side of a fire for three 
 days, well shaking it up at least three times in the day. By 
 
PICKJES. 
 
 531 
 
 pounding the spice, half the quantity is enough ; and the jar 
 being well closed, and the infusion being made with a mild 
 heat, there is no loss by evaporation. 
 
 If several kinds of pickle are to be prepared, to all of 
 which the above spices are suitable, a larger quantity may be 
 done at once and used as occasion requires. 
 
 To make (India) or Indian Pickle. 
 
 Take a gallon of the best vinegar and half a pound of the 
 best Durham mustard, which is to be made up with a suitable 
 quantity of cold vinegar; and put into the rest boiling, one 
 ounce of cloves, half ounce of mace, half ounce of black pepper, 
 and half ounce of white pepper, half ounce of ginger, half ounce 
 of long pepper, two dramchs of cayenne pepper pods should be 
 added : this must be suffered to become quite cold before the 
 substances to be pickled are put into it. 
 
 Get the best little hard knots of cabbage you can; cauli¬ 
 flowers, young carrots very small, French and kidney beans, 
 young hard apples, radish pods, and shalots; these can be 
 obtained at the same time and put into the pickle; other 
 things to be added as in season, such as small onions, cucum¬ 
 bers, vegetable marrow. 
 
 These should be prepared for the pickle in the following 
 manner —A brine is to be made strong enough to bear an 
 egg, in which all things to be pickled are to be previously 
 boiled, then taken out, spread upon a clean cloth, exposed to 
 the sun and air till dry from the brine; no wet must be suf¬ 
 fered to come upon them; then put into the cold pickle and 
 tie down close. If kept for two years before used so much 
 the better, though it will be a good pickle, use it as soon as 
 you will. 
 
 The onions, garlic, and shalots, are not to go into tl e 
 brine, but to be skinned clean, put into a colander, and a 
 sufficiency of salt put upon them to extract the juice; the 
 cucumbers need not be put into the brine, but a little of 
 
¥32 
 
 P1CK1.ES. 
 
 it be poured upon them ; of other things a different time tt 
 to be observed in the boiling cabbages longest, radish poda 
 a short time, &c. 
 
 Now if any person will be at the trouble of carefully mak¬ 
 ing this pickle, they will be well rewarded for their pains, 
 as such can and do testify as have used the same. 
 
 Another way.—This a general hodge-podge pickle of all 
 the common green and white pickles to which the currie 
 flavour and tawney currie tinge is given. Prepare the pickle 
 liquor thus:—To every two quarts of the best vinegar put 
 an ounce and a half of white ginger scraped and sliced, the 
 same of long pepper, two ounces of peeled shalots, one of 
 peeled garlic, an ounce and a half of salt, an ounce of tumeric, 
 a little cayenne, and some flour of mustard. Let this infuse 
 in a close jar, set in a warm place for a week; and in the 
 meanwhile have ready a white cabbage sliced, cauliflowers cut 
 in neat branches, white turnip radishes, young French beans, 
 sliced cucumbers, button onions, and codling apples, a large 
 carrot cut in round slices, nicked round the edges. Sprinkle 
 all these things with plenty of salt, mixing it well with them 
 in a large earthen vessel, or pouring scalding brine over them. 
 Let them lie for four days, turning them over, and then take 
 them up, wash them in vinegar, and dry them carefully with 
 a cloth, and afterwards lay them on sieves before the fire, 
 turning them over till thoroughly dried. Next day place 
 them either in a large stone jar, or in smaller jars, and pour 
 the cooled pickle over them. The jars must be well 
 stopped. 
 
 This pickle keeps a long time, and for the first two years 
 will improve by the keeping. The vegetables do not come 
 in all together, but they may be prepared as for pickling, and 
 added to the general pickle as they come into season. This 
 pickle looks more attractive if the French beans, small whole 
 cucumbers, or melons, are greened before they are put to it, 
 as directed in other recipes. When the melons or cucum¬ 
 bers are greened, cut a slit in the side, and scrape out the 
 seeds. Shoots of green elder are also put to this pickle, iu 
 imitation of the Bamboo of the genuine Mango pickie. In- 
 
TICKLES. 
 
 533 
 
 stca<! of being laid in salt, the vegetables may be parboiled in 
 very strong brine, by which means the pickle will be sooner 
 ready, but the colour and crispness will be injured, though for \ 
 ease of preparation, and safety in eating, parboiling is by 
 some persons esteemed the preferable method. 
 
 Another way.—Lay a pound of white ginger in water one 
 night; then scrape, slice, and lay it in salt in a pan till the 
 other ingredients shall be ready. 
 
 Peel, slice, and salt a pound of garlic three days, then 
 put it in the sun to dry. Salt and dry long pepper in the 
 same way. 
 
 Prepare various sorts of vegetables thus :— 
 
 Quarter small white cabbages, salt three days, squeeze, 
 and set them in the sun to dry. 
 
 Cauliflowers cut in their branches; take off the green 
 from radishes; cut celery in three-inch lengths; ditto young 
 French beans whole, likewise the shoots of elder, which will 
 look like bamboo. Apples and cucumbers, choose of the 
 least seedy sort; cut them in slices, or quarters, if not too 
 large. All must be salted, drained, and dried in the sun, 
 except the latter; over which you must pour boiling 
 vinegar, and in twelve hours drain them, but no salt must be 
 used. 
 
 Put the spice, garlic, a quarter of a pound of mustard 
 seed, and as much vinegar as you think enough for the quan¬ 
 tity you are to pickle, into a large stone jar, and one ounce of 
 turmeric, to be ready against the vegetables shall be dried. 
 When they are ready, observe the following directions:—Put 
 some of them into a two-pound stone jar, and pour over them 
 one quart of boiling vinegar. Next day take out those vege¬ 
 tables: and when drained, put them into a large stone jar, 
 and boiling the vinegar, pour it over some more of the vegeta¬ 
 bles ; let them lie a night, and do as above. Thus proceed 
 till you have cleansed each set from the dust which must 
 inevitably fall on them by being so long in doing; then, to 
 every gallon of vinegar put two ounces of flour of mustard, 
 mixing by degrees, with a little of it boiling hot. The whole 
 of the vinegar should have been previously scalded, but 
 
534 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 set to be cool before it was put to the spice. Stop the jar 
 tight. 
 
 This pickle will not be ready for a year; but you may 
 make a small jar for eating in a fortnight, only by giving the 
 cauliflower one scald in water, after salting and drying as above, 
 but without the preparative vinegar; then pour the vinegar, 
 that has the spice and garlic, boiling hot over. If at any 
 time it be found that the vegetables have not swelled properly, 
 boiling the pickle, and pouring it over them hot, will plump 
 them. 
 
 Another way.—Take one hard white cabbage, two cauli¬ 
 flowers, one stick of horseradish cut in slices, two dozen of 
 small onions, a dozen heads of garlic, put them in boiling salt 
 brine twelve hours ; mix a sufficient quantity of vinegar to 
 cover them, with three spoonfuls of turmeric, two spoonfuls 
 of mustard in powder, one of cayenne pepper, two of allspice 
 and whole pepper, and three blades of ginger cut; add the 
 ingredients all together; cucumbers in slices, gherkins, 
 French beans, capsicums, that have been pickled, are to be ad¬ 
 ded in equal quantities. 
 
 It is always necessary to pickle the green articles by them¬ 
 selves, as they do not get a good colour in the cabbage 
 pickle. 
 
 Artichokes. 
 
 Take young artichokes as soon as they are formed, and boil 
 them for two or three minutes in strong salt and water. La\ 
 them upon a hair sieve to drain, and when cold, put them into 
 narrow-topped jars: take as much white-wine vinegar as will 
 cover the artichokes. Boil them with a blade or two of mace, 
 a few slices of ginger, and a nutmeg cut thin. Pour it on 
 them while it is hot, and tie them down close. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 Boil the artichokes till the leaves can be pulled off; take 
 off the chokes and cut them from the stalk; but take great 
 care not to let the knife touch the top. Throw them into 
 
ri ;kli:s. 
 
 585 
 
 salt and water for an hour, take them out, and lay them on a 
 cloth to drain. As soon as they are dry put them into large 
 wide-mouthed glasses, with a little mace and sliced nutmeg 
 between, and fill them either with distilled vinegar, or sugar- 
 vinegar and spring water. Cover them with mutton fat fried, 
 and tie them down with a leather and a bladder. 
 
 Asparagus. 
 
 Gather and cut off the wh.te ends of asparagus, wash the 
 green ends in spring water; then put them into fresh water, 
 and let them lie therein two or three hours. Put into a 
 bioad saucepan, filled with spring water, a handful of salt, 
 set it on the fire, and when it boils, put in the asparagus 
 loose, but not many at a time, and scald them. Take them 
 out with a broad skimmer, and lay them on a cloth to cool. 
 Make a pickle of white wine vinegar, and one ounce of bay 
 salt, boil it, and put the asparagus into a stone jar. To one 
 gallon of the pickle, put two nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce 
 of mace, and the same quantity of whole white pepper. Pour 
 the pickle hot over the asparagus, and cover the whole with a 
 linen cloth, three or four times doubled. After standing a 
 week, boil the pickle again, and do the same at the end of 
 another week, and pour it on hot each time as before. When 
 cold, cover the jar close. 
 
 Barberries. 
 
 Gather fine full clusters before they are quite ripe. Pick 
 away the dead leaves and injured berries, and keep the clus¬ 
 ters in salt and water in jars well covered. When the pickle 
 begins to ferment change it. Red currants may be kept as 
 above. 
 
 To pickle Cloves , Carnations, or Gillyflowers. 
 
 They being full blown, pull off the green bud, and put 
 the flowers into some white-wine vinegar in which some loaf 
 sugar has been dissolved enough to give it a sweet flavour; 
 tie them down. 
 
636 
 
 PICjtlE* 
 
 Beet Root. 
 
 Wash the beet-roots, but take care not to break the skin 
 or the fibres which hang about it, else the colour will fly. 
 Boil softly for an hour or more if they are large, and as soon 
 as they are cold enough to be handled, peel them, and cut¬ 
 ting them into slices put them into a jar, and have ready to 
 pour over them cold vinegar, in which black and Jamaica 
 pepper, ginger, and a little cayenne have been previously 
 boiled. A few small onions may be added to this pickle. It is 
 much used as a garnish for cold meat in alternate slices with 
 samphire. 
 
 Bitter Oranges. 
 
 Take the quantity of ripe bitter oranges that is to be 
 pickled; take off the ends of the stalk and put them into a 
 jar; pour good vinegar over them; add to them a small 
 handful of coriander and a little cinnamon, beaten together, 
 and tied in a cloth, eight days; after pour off the vinegar 
 and give it a few boils; put it to cool in a basin, and then 
 pour it over the oranges : it is necessary to bung the jar 
 well. 
 
 To pickle Cucumbers (or Gherkins.) 
 
 Take the middle sized cucumbers and put them into a dry 
 earthen pot with two or three tops of dill, then boil up your 
 pickle, and pour to them at three or four different times once 
 every day, and keep them close covered. Make your pickle of 
 the best white-wine vinegar, with mace, ginger, whole pepper, 
 and a handful of salt. To two hundred cucumbers allow 
 half an ounce each of pepper and ginger. If they are not 
 so green as you would have them, put them into a bell metal 
 pot, and paste down the lid all round that no steam may come 
 out, and set them over a very gentle fire just to keep hot till 
 they are sufficiently green, then pour them out and cover them 
 down close. 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 687 
 
 Another way —Lay fifty firm, young, and very small-sized 
 cucumbers on flat dishes, having first rubbed them with silt. 
 Keep them covered, and look at them and turn them occa¬ 
 sionally for eight or ten days, and then, having carefully 
 drained them, put them in a jar in which vine leaves or cab¬ 
 bage blades are laid, and pouring two quarts of scalding vine¬ 
 gar over them, cover them with more leaves, and keep 
 them covered by the fire. Next day pour off the vine¬ 
 gar, boil it up, and put it hot over the cucumbers, again 
 covering them with fresh leaves above and below. A little 
 pounded alum will improve the colour; but if it be not 
 good enough scald them once more, by placing the jar in a 
 pan of boiling water, or on a hot hearth. When the colour 
 is decently good, boil up the vinegar once more with a half 
 ounce of white pepper, the same of ginger, two drachms of 
 cloves, and a bruised nutmeg. Boil the spices for a few 
 minutes with the vinegar, and when cold bottle them accord¬ 
 ing to the general directions. 
 
 Capsicums. 
 
 Lay green capsicums, for three days, in a strong brine of 
 salt and water, strong enough to bear an egg; strain and 
 dry in a cloth; put in jars, with mace and allspice; fill up 
 with cold vinegar, and tie over. 
 
 Note .—Red capsicums may be put in the jars, perfectly 
 dry, and filled up with cold vinegar and spice as the green. 
 
 Cauliflowers * or Broccoli. 
 
 Take firm, well coloured vegetables, before they are quite 
 ripe, and cut away the bark of the stems, and all the green 
 leaves. Scald them for four minutes in a pan of boiling 
 brine, and then drain and dry them thoroughly; which will 
 require at least twenty-four hours. When dry, pull them 
 into properly sized branches, cutting the stalks smoothly, 
 and pack them up in the jars with the same pickle liquor as 
 directed for onions or beet-roots. 
 
 * Tie former is always to be preferred ; if broccoli is used let it botfie 
 cape or autumn broccoli, which has only the growth of a summer. 
 
 6 23 3 i 
 
PICKU0. 
 
 638 
 
 Cucumbers and OniotU . 
 
 Pare and slice cucumbers, picking out the seeds; and peel 
 and slice large onions in thick slices. Sprinkle salt over them 
 and drain for a night, then put them into a stone jar, and pour 
 scalding vinegar over them. Close the jar, and set it by the 
 fire. Scald them by placing the jar over a hot hearth, and 
 repeat this till they become a tolerable colour; then boil up 
 the vinegar with spiceries, as in last receipt. 
 
 Cucumber or Melon Mangoes. 
 
 N. B. The melon is greatly preferred. There is a parti¬ 
 cular sort used for the purpose. Cut. a square piece out ol the 
 side, scoop out the insides, let them lay in strong salt and 
 water brine, four or five days ; fill them with mustard seed, 
 heads of garlic, cayenne pepper, and allspice; tie the piece 
 on again, and green them as gherkins, and proceed the same. 
 
 Elder Buds. 
 
 Gather them when about the size of hops, put them into 
 strong salt and water for nine days, stirring them frequently. 
 Put them into a pan, cover them with vine leaves, and pour 
 over them the former liquor. Set them on a slow fire till 
 green, and make a pickle for them of vinegar, mace, shalots, 
 and ginger sliced. Boil these for a few minutes, and pour 
 the whole upon the buds. Tie them close, and keep them in 
 a dry place. 
 
 Elder Shoots . 
 
 Let them lie in salt and water all night; then put them into 
 stone jars in layers, strewing between them some mustard 
 seed, scraped horse radish, shalots, white beet root, and cau¬ 
 liflower pulled into pieces. Pour boiling vinegar over them, 
 and scald them three times. Keep them in a dry place 
 covered. 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 539 
 
 llie same in imitation of Indian Bamboo. 
 
 Early in May take the middle part of the stalks of young 
 shoots, peel off the rind, and lay them all night in a brinp 
 made of salt and beer. Dry them in a cloth, and make 
 pickle of equal quantities of gooseberry and wine vinegar. 
 To each quart of pickle put an ounce of long pepper, as 
 much sliced ginger, a few corns of Jamaica pepper, and a lit¬ 
 tle mace. Boil this, and pour it hot upon the shoots. Cover 
 the jar close, and set it by the fire for twenty-four hours, 
 shaking it frequently. 
 
 Kidney Beans. 
 
 Let them be the dwarf beans if possible, boil up white 
 wine vinegar, a sufficient quantity to cover them, and some 
 salt. Pour it to them boiling hot and cover them down 
 close; the next day green them in the same manner as cu- 
 cambers. Radish pods and nasturtium buds may be done in 
 tne same manner, with the addition of spice if desired. 
 
 Indian or Turkey Wheat. 
 
 Take the quantity of Turkey corn that is to be preserved, 
 when it is well formed; thafe^is, when it is about the size of a 
 small cucumber ; strip off the leaves that are wrapped round it, 
 take off the beard, wipe it well, and put it into a bottle, with a 
 little salt, and some cloves, and fill it with fine white vinegar; 
 leave it for some days; then drain it, and give the vinegar a 
 dozen of boils ; let it cool, and pour it over the corn; in a 
 few days after repeat the same operation; it must be well 
 corked. 
 
 Lemon. 
 
 Grate off the outside rind of the lemons; rub them well 
 with salt; afterwards put them in salt and water made very 
 strong for nine or ten days, taking them out and rubbing 
 them separately with salt every day during that time; then 
 take them out, and dry them in a coarse cloth. Make a 
 pickle of vinegar, ginger, mace, pepper, &c. boiled together, 
 and put in the lemons; let them just simmer over the fire, 
 
540 
 
 PICKLES. 
 
 and add a small quantity of turmeric. Put them m jars, and 
 when cool tie them down. 
 
 To Pickle Mushrooms , white. 
 
 Let them be but of one night’s growth, throw them in 
 water; wash them clean with a bit of flannel, and cut off the 
 roots. Then throw the mushrooms into boiling water with a 
 little milk and salt. Let them boil about a quarter of an 
 hour, then take them out and dry them on a cloth. Then 
 put them in a mixture of vinegar and water in equal parti 
 for three days. Then dry them as before, and put them into 
 a mixture of equal parts of white wine and vinegar, or vine¬ 
 gar alone, cold, with whole pepper, some ginger, mace, salt, 
 bay leaves, and a piece of lemon peel. Then pour over the 
 whole a cake of fat and tie down. 
 
 An excellent Way. 
 
 Choose small and white button mushrooms, and rub them 
 with flannel or sponge dipped in a little salt. Put them into 
 a stone jar, with some mace, ginger, pepper, and salt, and 
 let them stew in their own juices over a slow fire, shaking 
 them well but not breaking them. Let them remain over the 
 fire till they are almost dry, but take care they do not 
 burn. When the liquor is all imbibed by the mushrooms, 
 or gone oft 1 in vapour, put in as much hot vinegar as will 
 cover them, and let them just come to boil. When cold, 
 bottle them in jars, and after a week fill up with vinegar, 
 and pour a little oil into the bottles, which will greatly aid 
 in excluding the air. Cork the bottles, wrapping bladder, 
 or leather, round the corks, and dip what is to be long 
 kept in bottle-rosin. 
 
 Onions. 
 
 Choose small sound silver onions, as equal in size as may 
 be. Top and tail them, but do not pare the tops very 
 close as the air softens and spoils the onions. Scald them 
 with brine. Repeat this on the second day, and when cold 
 peel the onions as quickly as possible, throwing them into 
 vinegar as they are done, to prevent their blackening. Boil 
 
PICKLES. 
 
 541 
 
 vinegar enough to cover them, with sliced ginger, and blach 
 and white pepper; when cooled a little pour it over the onions. 
 Cork them well, as directed for other pickles. Some cooks 
 peel and scald the onions, a few at a time, take them up as 
 soon as they look transparent, and dry them in the folds of a 
 cloth, covering them carefully to exclude the air. 
 
 To Pickle small Onions. 
 
 Peel your onions and throw them into water; then put 
 them into a well tinned saucepan, with salt and water, and let 
 them stand till they are cold and well drained, then make a 
 pickle of white-wine vinegar, the palest you can get, with 
 mace, sliced ginger, with pepper-corns, and salt to your taste, 
 give it one boil up, and let it stand till it is quite cold, then 
 add to it about two spoonfuls of the best pale flour of mus¬ 
 tard, and after you have put your onions into jars, pour pickle 
 upon them. 
 
 Red Cabbage. 
 
 A firm, deep purple, middle-sized cabbage is the best for 
 pickling. Strip off the outer leaves, cut out the stalk, ana 
 dividing the cabbage, cut it down into thin slices of the 
 breadth of narrow straws. Sprinkle salt over it, and let it 
 lie for a day; then drain it very dry, and pour over it a 
 pickle of boiling vinegar, seasoned with black and Jamaica 
 peppers, and ginger. Cover the jar to keep in the hot steams, 
 and when cold close it up. A few mild onions sliced is 
 thought an improvement to this pickle. The onion takes the 
 beautiful tinge of the cabbage, and gives a pleasant flavour. 
 
 Another way.—Cut off the stalks and outside leaves, and 
 shred it into thin slices; make a pickle of salt, vinegar, cloves, 
 mace, ginger, and grated nutmeg; then boil it, and when it 
 is cold, pour it over the cabbage, and it will be fit for use in 
 twelve hours. You do white cabbage in the same pickle, only 
 it must be poured on scalding, two or three times. 
 
 Another way.—Slice it into a colander, and sprinkle eacli 
 layer with salt; let it drain two days, then put it into a jar, 
 and pour boiling vinegar enough to cover, and put a few slices 
 of red beet root. Observe to choose the purple red cabbage* 
 
54.2 
 
 1’iCKLES. 
 
 Those who like the flavour of spice will boil it with the vine¬ 
 gar. Cauliflower cut in branches, and thrown in after being 
 salted, will look of a beautiful red. 
 
 Samphire. 
 
 Soak some of the freshest green samphire in salt and 
 water for two days; then take it out, boil it, covered in 
 plenty of vinegar, over a slow fire till it is crisp. Then put 
 it into a jar, and keep it tied down, covered with bladder and 
 leather. 
 
 Another way.—Mix a gallon of vinegar and two quarts of 
 water with two large handfuls of salt, and having picked and 
 washed the samphire, put it into the brine, paste up the vessel 
 which contains it, and set it on a moderate fire, without boil¬ 
 ing, for half an hour. When cold, open the vessel, and put 
 the pickle into a stone jar, with the same liquor, more vine¬ 
 gar, water, and salt, for use. The ordinary way is, to put 
 the samphire in a strong brine of salt and water, or sea water, 
 which will keep it good all the year. When wanted for the 
 table, put a little of it into vinegar. 
 
 To Pickle Walnuts 
 
 Gather them when about the size of a pigeon’s egg, and 
 before they have any shell; put them in water and salt, shift¬ 
 ing fresh every day or two, till you find the bitterness pretty 
 well out, then rub them clean and dry, and put them into thv 
 best white-wine vinegar with some ginger, whole pepper, 
 rr*ace, and salt. Pour some oil over the tops and tie down. 
 
 Another way.—Scald slightly, to facilitate rubbing off the 
 first skin, a hundred of fine large French walnuts, about the 
 beginning of July before they have a hard shell, which is easily 
 ascertained by the common method of trying them with a 
 pin. Put them in a strong cold brine, shift them into new 
 the third and sixth days, and take them out and dry them on 
 the ninth or tenth. Then take an ounce each of long pep¬ 
 per, black pepper, ginger, and allspice; a quarter of an ounce 
 of cloves, a few blades of mace, and a table-spoonful of 
 mustard seed : and having bruised the whole together, put 
 
VINEGARS, CATSUT, STORE S YUCES, Sic. 
 
 543 
 
 into a glass or unglazed stone jar, a layer of walnuts, strew 
 them well over with the mixture, and proceed in the same 
 manner with the rest, till all are covered. Then, boiling 
 three quarts of white-wine vinegar, with some sliced horse¬ 
 radish and ginger, pour it hot over the walnuts, and cover 
 them up close. Repeat the boiling of the vinegar, and pour¬ 
 ing it hot over, three or four days, always keeping the pickle 
 closely covered and adding, at the last boiling, a few cloves 
 of garlic, or some shalots; let them stand at least four or five 
 months, when they will be excellent. 
 
 Another way.—Put them into a jar, cover them with the 
 best vinegar cold, let them stand four months; then pour off 
 the pickle, and boil as much fresh vinegar as will cover the 
 walnuts, adding to every three quarts of vinegar one quarter 
 pound of best Durham mustard, a stick of horseradish sliced, 
 one half-ounce of black pepper, one half-ounce of cloves, one 
 ounce of ginger, one half-ounce of allspice, and a good hand¬ 
 ful of salt: pour the whole boiling hot upon the walnuts, and 
 cover them close; they will be fit for use in three or four 
 months. You may add two ounces of garlic, or shalot, but 
 not boiled in the vinegar. Of the pickle in which the wal¬ 
 nuts stood for the first four months, you may make excellent 
 catsup. 
 
 Vinegars, Catsup, Store Sauces, &c. 
 
 The pyroligneous acid or chrystal vinegar is strongly recom¬ 
 mended for all culinary purposes. Those who wish to enter 
 into details on that subject, may consult Beaufoy’s Treatise on 
 Chrystal Vinegar. Those who choose to prepare vinegar at 
 home may do it with advantage in several ways. Observe in 
 general, that vinegar, from whatever substances produced, ad¬ 
 vances more rapidly if put in a vinegar cask. One of the 
 best vinegars is produced from the lees of wine; for this pur¬ 
 pose, when bottling your wine, whether currant, gooseberry, 
 raisin, cowslip, or whatever else, provided it be not too deep by 
 coloured, as elder, &c. put the lees into a cask or stone jar 
 reserved for that purpose; when you have obtained a suffi- 
 
544, VINEGARS, 7ATSUP, STORE SAUCES, &C. 
 
 cient quantity, boil the whole quickly for half an hour skim¬ 
 ming it well, then return it to the cask (which must be 
 perfectly clean and dry); add to every gallon of vinegar one 
 pint of best white-wine vinegar and a little chervil. Stop the 
 cask, and in one month it will be fit for use. 
 
 Raisin Vinegar 
 
 After making raisin wine lay the refuse in a heap to fer¬ 
 ment. Add water in the proportion of a gallon to the pound 
 of raisins and half pound of sugar. Put yeast to the liquor 
 when strained. 
 
 Gooseberry Vinegar. 
 
 To every quart of bruised ripe white or green gooseberries 
 put three quarts of spring water. Stir them well with the 
 water and let them steep for forty-eight hours, repeating the 
 stirring. Strain through a flannel bag, and put two pounds 
 of white pounded sugar to every gallon of liquor. Put it 
 Into a barrel with a toast soaked in yeast, leaving the bung- 
 hole as directed above. Keep the barrel in a warm place. 
 White currants or raspberries make an excellent vinegar by 
 following the same recipe. Pick the currants from the 
 ■stalks. 
 
 Cider Vinegar. 
 
 To each gallon of cider put a pound of white sugar, and 
 jumbling them well together, let them ferment for four 
 months, and a strong and well coloured vinegar will be the 
 result. 
 
 Treacle Vinegar. 
 
 Put the treacle in an earthen pan, large enough for that 
 purpose; pour on thft treacle four quarts of boiling water; 
 then take a stick and stir the treacle about till it is dissolved, 
 and let it stand till it is about milk warm; then add a table¬ 
 spoonful of yeast; cover the pan up with a clean cloth, and 
 in a few hours it will ferment, and continue to ferment for 
 ten days. Observe, it may be put in a cask as soon as the 
 fermentation is ov^r; uour into the cask half a pint of old 
 
VINEGARS, CATSUP, STORE SAUCES, &C. 515 
 
 fcnogar, and this will turn the whole sour. Let it stand in 
 flie cask all the three months, as it requires air; but keep a 
 vece of slate or tile over the bunghole. In about a month 
 after you have put it in the cask there will appear a thick sub¬ 
 stance at the top of it: this you must push away with a stick, 
 and it will go to the bottom. In a few days after this it will 
 be as white as milk on the top. This is a sign that it is 
 doing well. After it has stood the time, as above mentioned, 
 you may draw it oft into another cask, or bottles, which you 
 please; take care the cask or bottles be perfectly clean. This 
 will be most excellent vinegar. To give it a fine flavour add 
 two ounces of raisins to every gallon you make; let the raisins 
 always remain in the cask or bottles and they will keep for 
 years. Observe, after the raisins are in, bung the cask well 
 up, or if in bottles, let them be well corked; for though the 
 vinegar, while under this process, requires air, yet afterwards 
 it equally requires to be kept from the air. If you keep it 
 for twelve months after, it will be all the better for age. As 
 warm weather is the most favourable to make vinegar, April 
 is the best month to make it in, as you have the summer be¬ 
 fore you; and by putting the cask in the sun it will sour the 
 sooner. 
 
 Sugar Vinegar. 
 
 To every gallon of water put two pounds of coarse raw 
 sugar. Boil and skim this. Put it to cool in a tub, and 
 when sufficiently cold add to it a slice of bread soaked in fresh 
 yeast. Barrel it in a week, and set it in the sun in summer, or 
 by the fire in winter, for six months without stopping the 
 bung-hole; but cover it with a plate to keep out insects. 
 
 Verjuice. 
 
 Gather some ripe crab apples, and lay them in a heap to 
 sweat; then throw away the stalks and decayed fruit, and 
 having mashed the apples express the juice. A cyder or 
 wine-press will be useful for this purpose. Strain it, and in 
 a month it will be ready. It is the best simple substitute for 
 lemon-juice that can be found, and answers still better in place 
 of sorrel. 
 
 c 23 4 a 
 
518 
 
 VINEGARS, CATSUP, STORE SAUCES, &0. 
 
 Camp Vinegar. 
 
 Take a large head of garlic peeled and cut in slices, half an 
 ounce of cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of India soy, two spoon¬ 
 fuls of walnut pickle, four or five anchovies shred small; put 
 these into a pint of vinegar with fifteen grains of cochineal; 
 shake it every day for at least a fortnight (if shaken daily foi 
 six weeks it is much better;) pour it off clear into bottles fol 
 use, it will keep for years. 
 
 Another way.—Six chopped anchovies, four spoonfuls of 
 walnnt catsup, two of soy, and a clove of garlic chopped very 
 fine. Steep these for a fortnight in a pint of white vinegar, 
 and strain and bottle lor use. 
 
 Chili Vinegar , called Pepper Vinegar. 
 
 Infuse a hundred red chilies, fresh gathered, in a quart of 
 the best white-wine vinegar for ten days or more, shaking the 
 bottle occasionally. A half ounce of genuine cayenne will 
 answer the same purpose. This makes an excellent and cheap 
 addition to plain melted butter, or sauce for fish, &c. 
 
 Eschalot or Garlic Vinegar. 
 
 Clean, peel, and bruise four ounces of shalots, or half the 
 quantity of garlic, at the season when they are ripe without 
 having become acrid. Steep them in a quart of the best 
 vinegar. 
 
 Horseradish Vinegar . 
 
 Pour a quart of the best and strongest vinegar boiling hot 
 on three ounces of scraped horseradish, an ounce of minced 
 shalot, two drachms of black pepper, and a drachm of cayenne. 
 Strain it in four days, and serve it in a cruet along with cold 
 beef. It will make an excellent economical addition to the 
 gravy of chops, steaks, &c. 
 
 Tarragon Vinegar. 
 
 Gather the leaves of tarragon on a dry sunny day; pick 
 them from the stalks, and filling up a narrow necked store jar, 
 pour the best vinegar over them till the jar is full. Let them 
 
VINEGARS, CATSUP, STORE SAUCES, &C. 
 
 547 
 
 infuse for ten clays, then strain and bottle the tincture. Basil 
 vinegar is made precisely as the above. 
 
 Cucumber , Celery , or Cress Vinegar. 
 
 Pare and slice ten large cucumbers, and steep them in 
 three pints of the best vinegar for a few days. Strain and 
 bottle it. 
 
 Curry. 
 
 Curry vinegar may be made by steeping curry powder, in 
 the proportion of two ounces to the quart, in the best vinegar, 
 and straining and filtering for use. 
 
 Spice Vinegar. 
 
 To a barrel of wine, put in an ounce of cinnamon, two 
 ounces of long pepper, one ounce of ginger, two ounces of 
 black pepper in grains, and three or four nutmegs grated to 
 powder; when all these spices are prepared, put them into a 
 hair bag, boil them two or three times in about twelve pints 
 of good vinegar, then boil the same quantity of good wine; 
 put it into the barrel half filled, which may be filled up with 
 wine a little turned, if there is any; stop it, and leave the 
 wine to make. 
 
 Thieves' Vinegar , reckoned an excellent Preservative against 
 
 Infection. 
 
 Take an ounce of the tops of wormwood; rosemary, sage, 
 mint, and rue, of each half an ounce; flowers of lavender, two 
 ounces ; aromatic gum, cinnamon, cloves, nutmegs, and fresh 
 garlic, two drachms of each; half an ounce of camphor, and 
 eight pounds of red vinegar; beat all the ingredients well, 
 put them into a proper earthen jar, and pour the vinegar 
 upon them; the garlic ought to be sliced. After stopping 
 the jar, put it in the sun or in a hot place, such as a sand 
 bath, for three or four weeks; wring out the ingredients, ana 
 filter it through grey paper; the camphor must be dissolved 
 in a little spirits of wine. This vinegar ought to be «.epr 
 ciose’y corked. 
 
548 
 
 VINEGARS, CATSUP, STOKE SAUCES, &C. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar , 
 
 A rery useful, cooling drink, in fevers, sore throats, or disorders of tf* 
 chest ; for which purpose a sufficient quantity is to be mixed in a tum¬ 
 bler of cold water to make an agreeable and refreshing drink. 
 
 Put a pound of fine fruit into a China bowl, and pour 
 upon it a quart of the best white-wine vinegar; next day 
 strain the liquor on a pound of fresh raspberries; and the 
 following day do the same, but do not squeeze the fruit, 
 only drain the liquor as dry as you can from it. The 
 last time pass it through a canvass previously wet with 
 vinegar to prevent waste. Put it into a stone jar, with a 
 pound of sugar to every pint of juice, broken into large 
 lumps; stir it when melted, then put the jar into a saucepan 
 of water, or on a hot hearth, let it simmer, and skim it. 
 When cold, bottle it. The fruit, with an equal quantity of 
 sugar, makes excellent raspberry cakes without boiling. 
 
 A very choice Catsup. 
 
 Take half a pound of anchovies, wash them in half a pint 
 of white-wine vinegar, chop them, bones and all; put them 
 into half a pint of white wine, and quarter of a pint of claret, 
 and let it boil about a quarter of an hour. Then strain the 
 vinegar to it, and put in half a pint more white wine, five or 
 six cloves of shalot, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, half as 
 much of common pepper, and of Jamaica pepper, all bruised; 
 a nutmeg sliced, a piece of lemon peel, and a few blades of 
 mace; put the whole into a skillet, and let it boil half an 
 hour; then pour it olf, and when cold put it into bottles. Be 
 careful to have the bottles very dry, cork them close, and tie 
 down. 
 
 Mushroom Catsup. 
 
 For this purpose, the large flap mushrooms, which contain 
 a great deal of juice, and do not answer for pickling or stew¬ 
 ing, are best adapted. Without washing them, pick off what¬ 
 ever looks dirty or corrupted, and breaking in pieces lay them 
 in an earthen jar, strewing salt about them. Throw a folded 
 cloth over the jar, and set it bv the fire, or in a very cool 
 
VINEGARS, CATSUP, STORE SAUCE#, &.C. 
 
 549 
 
 oven. Let it remain thus for twenty-four hours, and then 
 strain off the liquor into a clean stew-pan. To every quart of 
 liquor put a half ounce of black pepper-corns, a quarter ounce 
 of allspice, a half ounce of fresh sliced ginger, two or three 
 blades of mace, and a few cloves. Boil the liquor on a quick 
 fire for five minutes; or if it be wished very strong boil the 
 catsup till it is nearly half reduced, adding the spices after it 
 has boiled a full half hour. Let it settle on the lees, and 
 pouring it carefully off bottle what is clear by itself, and the 
 sediment after straining, in separate bottles, as it will answer 
 very well for hare soup, game soup, &c. Dip the cork of the 
 bottle in cement. Cayenne and nutmeg may be added 
 to the other spiceries if a very delicate relish is wanted ; or 
 all the seasonings may be withheld save the black pepper and 
 salt, of which catsups to make them keep well require a good 
 deal. Be sure that the bottles are perfectly full, and keep 
 them lying on the side. 
 
 Walnut Catsup. 
 
 Take one hundred walnuts and half a pound of shalots 
 peeled, pound both well together; put them in an earthen 
 pan, and add half a pound of salt, one and half pint erf vine¬ 
 gar; set it by nine days, then squeeze and add to it the juice 
 of one pound of anchovies, a drachm of mace, a nutmeg sliced, 
 one ounce ginger, boil all together half an hour; put it by till 
 the next day, then strain through a flannel bag, put it in 
 bottles with six or eight cloves in each; cork tight and rosin 
 
 O A. 7 O 
 
 down, and it will keep good for years. 
 
 Another way.—Take a quantity of walnut shells, keep them 
 until they turn black, the same as you would mushrooms; after 
 they have lain three or four days, put them on a sieve to 
 drain. Then boil the liquor with a few cloves, some allspice, 
 and a little ginger; if it is not quite salt enough, add a little 
 more, and bottle it off for use. 
 
 Another way.—To every clear pint of the juice of green 
 walnuts add a pound of anchovies, half an ounce of mace, 
 half an ounce of Jamaica pepper, and half an ounce of cloves’, 
 boil them together till the anchovies are dissolved, then strain 
 the liquor, and add vinegar half a pint, and eight shalots; boil 
 
550 
 
 VINEGARS, CATSUP, STORE SAUCES, &C. 
 
 again till the shalots are tender. When the catsup is grown 
 cold, bottle it for use. 
 
 Cucumber Catsup* 
 
 Take large old cucumbers and pare them, cut them in 
 slices, and break them to a mash, which must be sprinkled 
 with salt and covered with a cloth. Keep in all the seeds. 
 Next day, set the vessel aslant to drain off the juice, and do 
 this till no more can be obtained. Strain it, and boil it up 
 with a seasoning of white pepper, sliced ginger, black pepper, 
 sliced shalot, and a little horseradish. When cold pick out 
 the shalot and horseradish, and bottle the catsup, which is an 
 excellent preparation for flavouring sauces for boiled fowls, 
 dishes of veal, rabbits, or the more insipid meats. 
 
 Oyster , Cockle y and Muscle Catsup. 
 
 Wash in their own liquor, and pound in a mortar fat newly 
 opened native oysters. To every pint of the pounded oys¬ 
 ters, and their strained liquor, add a pint of white wine, and 
 boil this up and skim it; then to every quart of this catsup 
 add two or three anchovies pounded, a tea-spoonful of white 
 pepper, a salt-spoonful of pounded mace, some cayenne, with 
 salt to taste. Let it boil up to blend the spices, and then 
 rub the catsup through a sieve into a clean vessel. When 
 cold bottle it, and stop the bottles with corks dipped in bottle 
 rosin. 
 
 Sugar Catsup , or Browning. 
 
 Pound very finely six ounces of the best refined sugar, 
 (Hamburgh loaves,) and put it into a small and very clean 
 frying-pan, with an ounce and a half of fresh butter. As 
 they dissolve mix them with a spatula or wooden spoon, and 
 withdraw the pan from the fire when the fluid begins to boil 
 violently, and keep it thus till it has acquired the rich dark 
 brown colour wanted. It may either be seasoned with pep¬ 
 per, salt, cloves, catsup, See. or not, and is perhaps as generally 
 useful plain. WLen cold, skim the browning and bottle it 
 for use. 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, BISCUITS, &C. 
 
 551 
 
 Essence of Cayenne. 
 
 Steep half an ounce of good cayenne in a half pint of 
 fftiong spirits for a fortnight, and strain and bottle it for use. 
 
 Essence of Ginger , a fine Stomachic. 
 
 Three quarters of a pound best Jamaica ginger, cut (not 
 bruised) in small pieces for a quart bottle, cover the ginger 
 with spirits of wine, keep it in a rather warm place, shaking it 
 every day for three srseks, after which time it may be poured 
 off. After that cover the ginger with brandy, which may 
 stand the same time, or as long as you please. 
 
 In like manner may be prepared essences, or tinctures of 
 allspice, cloves, nutmegs, cinnamon, &c. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, BISCUITS, &c. 
 
 Bread is a principal part of the food of persons in all con¬ 
 ditions of life, it is therefore of the first importance that it 
 should be good. This depends on several circumstances. 
 1. The goodness of the corn, which must be well grown, free 
 from blight and mildew, favourably gathered in in its proper 
 season, and used while its goodness remains unimpaired. If 
 corn be suffered to remain too long on the ground by reason 
 of wet weather, or if it be exposed to rain after it is cut, the 
 grain begins to germinate, and the flour and bread procured 
 from such grain is clammy and unwholesome. Grain, well 
 housed and securely kept, will remain sound and good for a 
 long time. This is a merciful provision by which the surplus 
 of one year is available to meet the deficiencies of another; 
 but it was never intended that grain should be hoarded 
 year after year for the purposes of pride, covetousness, and 
 oppression; nor can such speculations be practised without 
 
552 BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, BISCUITS, &C. 
 
 injury to the grain and its consumers; and not unfrequently 
 to the covetous withholders of it also. 2. The flour should 
 also be used within a proper * fr ne after grinding. It may 
 with advantage be kept four or five weeks, but should not ex* 
 ceed six. Exposure to the air causes it to evaporate and 
 lose some of its nutritious properties; and if it becomes at all 
 damp, fermentation and acidity take place. Flour should 
 therefore be kept in a dry place and covered up to secure it 
 both from air and dust. 3. The admission of any foreign 
 mixtures is to be highly depreciated. When bread is sold at 
 a standard weight and price, it is a great temptation to bakers 
 to adulterate their bread with inferior, and perhaps pernicious 
 articles; or at least to use such things in the process of 
 making bread as will cause it to rise quickly and retain its 
 moisture and weight, as well as add to its whiteness: among 
 the least pernicious of these are alum and pearl ash, and even 
 these are very disagreeable. It is much to be desired that a 
 free competition were allowed in the preparation of this most 
 important article of food; thus the honest baker w r ould be en¬ 
 couraged and the public benefitted. 
 
 For the sake of obtaining pure unadulterated bread, as 
 well as from motives of economy, many families have adopted 
 the motive of making their own bread. The former is much 
 the most cogent motive; for really if bakers might be relied 
 on for preparing a genuine and wholesome article, it would 
 not be worth while for families, especially small families, to 
 take the trouble of making their own bread for the mere 
 sake of saving. To those who use baker’s bread, it may be 
 useful to observe, that bread in which alum is used is very 
 white, and eats pleasantly enough while new, but very soon be¬ 
 comes dry and harsh, and acquires a sourish taste. Alum 
 and other more deleterious ingredients may also be detected 
 by slowly boiling the crumb of bread in water for a consider¬ 
 able time; then pour off the water, let it stand till near cold; 
 then pour gently off, and in the sediment will be discovered 
 the improper ingredients. The alum will be dissolved in the 
 water, in which it may be distinctly tasted, and even ex¬ 
 tracted by a chemical process; jalap will form a thick film at 
 top, and bones, ashes, or other heavy ingredients (on which 
 
BREAD, ROLLS, BUNS, BISCUITS, &C. 
 
 553 
 
 the yeast or leaven would have no power) will sink to the 
 bottom. Whiting, chalk, or pearl ash, may be detected by the 
 application of vinegar, or any other sharp acid, which will cause 
 the alkaline particles to effervesce. 4. The yeast or leaven is 
 a matter of great consequence. It is perhaps scarcely neces¬ 
 sary to observe, that yeast is the scum which rises on beer in a 
 state of fermentation, and that leaven is sour dough; for which 
 purpose those who use it reserve from every baking a pound 
 or two of dough, which they keep in a wooden vessel, (tub, or 
 bowl,) covered over with flour. When the next baking is to 
 be performed, the dough must be well mixed with w'ater in a 
 peck of flour, laid in a woodden kneading trough, covered over 
 with a linen cloth and flannel, and left to stand all night in a 
 warm place. Next morning the dough will have risen, and 
 prove sufficient to mix with two or three bushels of flour. 
 
 Bread made with yeast is more palatable, and generally 
 preferred; but that prepared with leaven is more wholesome 
 and easier of digestion. 
 
 a 
 
 5. Let moderation be observed in the quantity of salt used : 
 some salt is desirable, especially in bread intended for present 
 use; but too much is injurious. From half a pound to a 
 pound is a proportion for a bushel of flour. This should 
 never be exceeded; and for such as is intended to be kept a 
 long time, (as biscuits for sea,) no salt should be used. 
 
 • 6. Milk is sometimes used for wetting bread. Bread thus 
 mixed eats light and pleasant at first, but. soon becomes dry 
 and harsh, and in hot weather turns sour; but rye, which is 
 more sweet and clammy, is better for being mixed with 
 milk: for common family bread, nothing answers so well as 
 mixing it with warm water. 
 
 7. The dough must not be hurried, but suffered to rise 
 several hours, and then well kneaded with the hands. 
 
 8. As to baking, nothing but experience can teach people to 
 regulate the heating of an oven. The oven should not be too 
 close, as all the steam being confined is injurious to the bread. 
 In tne North of England the bread is chiefly made thin, in 
 tne rorm of cakes, and baked on an uncovered flat stone over 
 a wood fire. This bread is remarkably sweet, light, and easy 
 or digestion. 
 
 a 24 4 b 
 
MAKING BREAD 
 
 lb\> 
 
 9. For the sake both of conomy ana nealth, bread ought 
 not to be eaten hot; hot bre -d is very unwholesome, is apt to 
 lie heavy on the stomach, and often occasions spasms : it is 
 particularly injurious to persons affected with asthma or other 
 complaints of the lungs; it is moreover very extravagant, 
 making a difference in the consumption of one loaf in five. 
 It is possible, however, to err in keeping bread too long, by 
 which it becomes less nutritious. It is never better than 
 when one day old. 
 
 10. With respect to using any other kind of meal for 
 bread than that of wheat, oatmeal is very wholesome, being 
 warm, nutritious, and easy of digestion; it is usually made in 
 thin cakes, and baked on the stones as above described. It is 
 much used in the North of England. Barley is not so 
 nourishing as wheat, rye, or oats; a very delicious and whole¬ 
 some bread may be made of half flour and half potatoes. 
 Equal parts of rye, barley, and wheat flour, wet with milk, 
 make a very good and cheap bread. 
 
 Making Bread. 
 
 If you mean to bake a bushel of flour, put it into a 
 Jrough, or large clean and smooth tub; make a deep hole in 
 the middle of the heap of flour, and put into it one pint of 
 good fresh yeast, mix it up with a pint of milk-warm soft water 
 then with a spoon work into the liquid enough of the flour to 
 make a thin batter, which, after being well stirred for a 
 minute or two, may be sprinkled with just enough fioiu to 
 hide it; then cover the trough over with a cloth till the 
 batter has risen enough to crack the flour with which you 
 covered it; then work the flour into the batter, sprinkle over 
 it half a pound of salt, and pour in, as it is wanted, lukewarm 
 milk, or soft water. When the whole is sufficiently moist, 
 knead it, which is done by working it thoroughly with your 
 fists, rolling out, and folding it up till it i3 completely mixed 
 and formed into a stiff and tough dough ; then make it into 
 a lump in the middle of the trough, and with a little dry flour 
 thinly scattered over it, cover it again, to be kept warm to 
 ferment. If properly done, it will not have to remain m tms 
 state more than fifteen or twenty minutes, in which timr cue 
 
MAKING BRKAD. 
 
 555 
 
 over. will be heated, by means of a lively and rather strong 
 Hie, made of dry, but not rotten, faggot sticks, or the woody 
 parts of furze or strong brushwood, without any green about 
 it: if larger wood is used, it must be split in sticks not more 
 than two inches and a half thick. When both douoh and 
 
 o 
 
 oven are ready, take out the fire, sweep the oven clean, and 
 make the dough up into loaves, which should be put into the 
 oven as soon as possible. As you knead up the loaves, 
 shake a little flour now and then over your board, to prevent 
 the dough from sticking to it. When you have put the 
 loaves into the oven, shut up the door very closely, and, if all 
 is properly managed, quartern loaves will be baked enough in 
 about two hours. 
 
 Another way.—Sift a peck of the finest wheat flour into 
 a heap ; and, making a small cavity in the centre, strain into 
 it about a pint of good yeast, mixed with the same quantity 
 of moderately warm water, and make it up of a light paste, 
 with part of the flour. Cover up this dough, set it before 
 the fire for an hour, to prove or rise, and then mix the whole 
 with at least two quarts of water, in which a moderate quan¬ 
 tity of salt has been dissolved; knead it till all the dough is 
 of a good stiffness, and set it to prove for another hour. It 
 must now again be well kneaded, and once more proved for 
 an hour, when it will be ready to form into loaves, which may 
 be either made in regular moulds, or formed by batching two 
 pieces together, either of round or oblong forms. A quar¬ 
 tern loaf will require about an hour and a half’s baking, in a 
 brisk oven. 
 
 Another way.—Let flour be kept four or five weeks before 
 it is begun to bake with. Put half a bushel of good flour 
 into a trough, or kneading tub; mix with it between four 
 and five quarts of warm water, and a pint and a half of good 
 yeast, put it into the flour, and stir it well with your hands 
 till it becomes tough. Let it rise about an hour and twenty 
 minutes, or less if it rises fast; then, before it falls, add 
 four quarts more of warm water, and half a pound of salt 
 work it well, and cover it with a cloth. Put the fire thee 
 into the oven; and by the time it is warm enough the dougt 
 w'i be ready. Make the loaves about five pounds each. 
 
55(5 
 
 MAKING BREAD. 
 
 sweep out the oven very clean and quick, and put in the 
 bread ; shut it up close, and two hours and a half will bake 
 it. In summer the water should be milk warm, in winter a 
 little more, and in frosty weather as hot as you can well bear 
 your hand in it, but not scalding, or the whole will be spoiled. 
 If baked in tins, the crust will be very nice. 
 
 The oven should be round, not long; the roof from 
 twenty to twenty-four inches high, the mouth small, and the 
 door of iron to shut close. This construction will save firing 
 and time, and bake better than long and high-roofed ovens. 
 
 Cheap Bread. 
 
 Remove from the flour only the coarsest flake bran : 
 boil five pounds of this bran in rather more than four gallons 
 of water, so that, when quite smooth, you will have three 
 gallons and three quarts of bran water. With this knead 
 fifty-six pounds of flour, and add salt and yeast as for other 
 bread : and fifty-six pounds of flour used in this- way will 
 produce as much bread as sixty-seven pounds four ounces of 
 flour used with plain water. When ten days’ old, if put 
 into the oven for twenty minutes, this bread will appear quite 
 new again. 
 
 Rice and Wheat Bread. 
 
 Simmer a pound of rice in two quarts or water till it 
 becomes perfectly soft; when it is of a proper warmth, mix 
 it extremely well with four pounds of flour, and yeast, and 
 salt, as for other bread ; of yeast about four large spoonfuls; 
 knead it particularly well; then set it to rise before the fire. 
 Some of the flour should be reserved to make up the loaves. 
 
 The whole expense, including baking, will not exceed 
 three shillings, for which eight pounds and a half of exceed 
 ingly good bread will be produced. If the rice should require 
 more water it must be added, as some rice swells more that 
 others. 
 
 American Flour 
 
 Requires almost twice as much water to make it int 
 bread as English flour, and therefore it is more profit- 
 
MAK£Ki* BREAD. 
 
 557 
 
 able* for a stone of American flour, which weighs fourteen 
 pounds, will make twenty-one pounds and a half of bread; but 
 the best sort of English flour Droduces only eighteen pounds 
 and a half. 
 
 Polatoe Bread 
 
 W eigh half a pound of mealy potatoes after they are boiled 
 or steamed, and rub them while warm into a pound and a half 
 of fine flour, dried for a little while before the fire. When tho-*& 
 roughly mixed, put in a spoonful and a half of yeast, a little 
 salt, and warm milk and water enough to work it into a dough. 
 Let this stand before the fire to rise for an hour and a half; 
 then make it into a loaf, and bake it in a moderately brisk 
 oven.—Some people put equal parts of potatoes and flour, and 
 add to the warm milk and water one ounce of butter and a 
 lump or two of sugar. 
 
 If baked in a tin the crust will be more delicate, but the 
 bread dries sooner. 
 
 * 
 
 Leavened Bread. 
 
 Having preserved dough from your last baking, as above 
 directed, the night before your intend to bake, put this into 
 a peck of flour, and work the whole well together with warm 
 water. Let it lie in a dry wooden trough, covered with a linen 
 cloth, and a flannel over it, in a warm place. The dough 
 kept warm, will rise again the next morning, and prove suffi¬ 
 cient to mix with two or three bushels of flour, when worked 
 up with warm water, and a pound of salt to each bushel. 
 Being well worked, and thoroughly incorporated, cover it, as 
 before, till it rises ; then knead, and make it into loaves. Th* 
 more leaven is used the lighter the bread will be* 
 
£ 55 ® 1 
 
 r ANCY BREAD, ROLLS, &c. 
 
 Fine French Bread. 
 
 Fake half a peck of the finest flour, and, having well 
 sifted it into the kneading trough, form a centrical cavity, into 
 which strain about half a pint each of warm milk and the 
 choicest yeast, mixing some of the surrounding flour so as to 
 form a light sponge. Then, having covered it well up with 
 a linen and a flannel cloth, place it before the fire to rise for 
 about three quarters of an hour; and, having warmed a, pint 
 and a half of milk with half a pint of water, a quarter of a 
 pound of fresh butter, a spoonful of powdered loaf-sugar, 
 and a little salt, knead it to a proper consistence, and place it 
 again over the fire as before. After once more kneading it, 
 and placing it to rise, form the dough into loaves, bricks, or 
 rolls, of any shape or size, lay them on tin plates; set them 
 before the fire to rise for about twenty minutes; and, having 
 baked them in a quick oven, let them be rasped while hot. 
 Some persons, with the butter, &c. put in an egg, leaving out 
 half the white. 
 
 French Rolls. 
 
 Take a pint and a half of milk, make it quite warm, half 
 a pint of small beer yeast, add sufficient flour to make it as 
 thick as batter; put it into a pan; cover it over, and keep it 
 warm ; when it has risen as high as it will, add a quarter of a 
 pint of warm water, and half an ounce of salt; mix them 
 well together; rub into a little flour two ounces of butter, 
 then make your dough not quite so stiff as for bread, let 
 it stand for three quarters of an hour, and it will be ready to 
 make into rolls, &c. Let them stand till they have risen, and 
 bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 Pvff Loaves. 
 
 To one pint of milk add four moderate spoonfuls of flour, 
 four eggs, leaving out half the whites, quarter of a pound of 
 
FANCY BREAD, ROLLS, &C. 
 
 55U 
 
 butter, melted, a little sugar and salt: this quantity makes six 
 puddings; bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 German Rolls. 
 
 Take half a peck of the finest flour, and as much new 
 milk as will wet the above into a dough; mix it with half a 
 pint of yeast, half an ounce of fine sugar, and se, sponge; 
 when risen, add one ounce of butter, melted, with two eggs; 
 work it together, and make it in rolls; let them rise in a 
 warm place; bake in buttered tins, in a brisk oven, twentv 
 minutes. 
 
 Oxford Cakes. 
 
 One pound of flour, one egg, a spoonful of yeast, half a pint 
 of cream or good milk; make them up, and let them stand to 
 rise. Bake them thirty minutes in a quick oven. 
 
 Breakfast Buns. 
 
 Take one pound and a half of flour; set sponge with two 
 spoonfuls of yeast, half a pint of warm milk, with hall the 
 flour; when risen, add to it a-quarter of a pound of sugar, 
 with two ounces of butter, melted, with the other part of the 
 flour, and a quarter of a pint more milk, to make it all a light 
 dough; make them up in round cakes, and lay them on tins 
 to rise, in a warm place;' when risen, bake them a quarter 01 
 an hour, and wash over with milk and sugar, mixed. 
 
 Derby Short-cakes. 
 
 Rub down a pound of butter into two pounds of floui, 
 and mix with this half a pound of beat sugar, an egg, and as 
 much milk as will make a paste. Roll this out thin, and cut 
 out the cakes in any form. Bake on tin plates for about ten 
 minutes. They may be iced, or have sifted sugar strewed 
 over them. 
 
 Yorkshire Cakes. 
 
 Mix two pounds of flour with a quartei of a pounci of but¬ 
 ter melted in a pint of milk, two beaten eggs, and three 
 spoonfuls of yeast. Mix the whole well together, and set it 
 
560 
 
 FANCY BREAD, ROLLS, ££C. 
 
 to rise; then knead, and make it into cakes, which are to 
 dc baked in a slow oven, after letting them stand some time. 
 They are lighter when made without butter, but eat shorter 
 with it. They should be buttered as soon as they come out 
 of the oven, or cut in two when cold, toasted brown, and 
 buttered. 
 
 Sally Luris Cakes. 
 
 Take one pint of warm milk, or rather cream, with a tea- 
 cupful of yeast, put these into a pan, with flour enough to 
 form a thick batter, add thereto the yelks of three eggs, and 
 two ounces of lump sugar dissolved in some warm milk, and a 
 quarter of a pound of butter rubbed into the flour. When 
 risen, make the dough into cakes, put them on tins, and 
 bake them in a quick oven. Care should be taken never to 
 put the yeast into water or milk too hot or too cold, as either 
 extreme will destroy the fermentation. In summer it should 
 be lukewarm, but in winter a little warmer, and in very cold 
 weather, warmer still. When it has first risen, if you are 
 not prepared, it will not hurt to stand an hour. 
 
 Famous Bath Rolls , or Cakes. 
 
 In a pint of milk warm two ounces of butter, and add three 
 spoonfuls of table-beer yeast, with a very small quantity of 
 saffron boiled in a cupful of milk, and a little salt: mix it well 
 with four pounds of fine dried and sifted flour: set the paste 
 to rise for about half an hour; knead it sufficiently; and, 
 making it up into twelve or fourteen rolls or cakes about thret 
 inches thick, bake them in a quick oven. They are com¬ 
 monly made without the saflron, but look much bettei 
 with it. 
 
 Potatoe Rolls. 
 
 Dry a pound and a half of flour. Bruise a pound of Well 
 boiled mealy potatoes, and work them with half an ounce oi 
 butter, and half a pint of milk, till they will pass through s 
 colander. Put a quarter of a pint of warm water to a quarter 
 of a pint of yeast, add these and some salt to the potatoes, and 
 mix the whole up with the flour. If it works up too stiff a 
 
FANCY BREAD, ROLES, 8cci 
 
 5a? 
 
 little more milk must be added. When it is well kneaded, 
 set it before the fire to rise for half an hour, ti er work it up 
 into common sized rolls, and bake them half an hour in a 
 pretty quick oven 
 
 Build a place as if for a copper, lay a piece of cast iron 
 all over the top, resembling the bottom of an iron pot, and 
 when wanted for use, heat it with a coal fire made in the fur¬ 
 nace underneath. Then put a quarter of a peck of very white 
 flour into the trough, mix a pint and a half of warm milk and 
 water, with a quarter of a pint of mild ale yeast, and a little 
 salt; stir these together for a quarter of an hour; strain the 
 liquid into the flour; mix the dough as light as possible, and 
 set it to rise for an hour. Make it up with the hands, pull 
 it into pieces, each of the size of a walnut, roll them up like 
 balls, and lay a flannel over them as fast as they are done;, 
 and keep the dough covered the whole time. When the dough 
 is quite rolled into balls, the first that are done will be ready 
 for baking, and may be spread out into the form of muffins. 
 Lay them on the heated plate, and as the bottoms change 
 colour, turn them on the other side. Care must be taken to 
 avoid burning them, and if the middle of the plate is too hot, 
 a brick or two should be put into the centre of the fire to 
 moderate the heat. A better sort is made by mixing a 
 pound of flour with an egg, an ounce of butter melted in a 
 pint of milk, and two table-spoonfuls of yeast beaten well up 
 together. Set it for two or three horns to rise, and bake the 
 muffins in the usual way. 
 
 Crumpets. 
 
 Make a thin batter of flour, milk, water, and a very little 
 yeast. Pour this on an iron plate, like pancakes in a frying 
 pan. The crumpets are soon done on one side, and must 
 therefore be quickly turned. 
 
 Oat Caaes. 
 
 Sift a quarter of a peck of fine oatmeal; then take about a 
 pint of warm water, half a glass of mild ale yeast, and half an 
 b 24 4 c 
 
562 
 
 FANCY BREAD, ROLES, &C. 
 
 ounce of salt; stir these together for about ten minutes, strain 
 the whole into the oatmeal, mix the dough high and light, as 
 for muffins, and let it remain an hour to rise. After this, roll 
 it up with the hand, and pull it into pieces about the size of 
 an egg, roll these out with a rolling pin on plenty of flour, 
 cover them with flannel, and they will soon be of a proper 
 thickness. Bake them on an iron plate. Toast them crisp 
 on both sides, but without burning them ; then pull them 
 open, lay in some butter, and put the two parts together 
 again. 
 
 Rusks, 
 
 Beat up seven eggs, and mix with the same half a pint of 
 new milk, in which a quarter of a pound of butter has been 
 melted. Add to it a quarter of a pint of yeast, and three 
 ounces of sugar; then put this mixture gradually into as 
 much flour as will make a light batter; let it rise before the 
 fire half an hour, and then add more flour to stiffen it. Knead 
 it well, and divide it into small loaves or cakes, and flatten 
 them. -When baked and cold, slice them, and put them into 
 the oven to brown a little. When first baked, they eat well 
 buttered, or with carraways they are good cold.—For French 
 rusks, mix with a wooden spoon, three-quarters of a pound 
 of powdered loaf sugar, and half a pint of the yelks of eggs. 
 Put in a handful of carraway seeds, with a pound of flour, 
 work the whole well together, roll out the paste above a foot 
 in length, and about the thickness of your wrist. Lay it on 
 a plate, with three or four sheets of paper beneath, and /iatten 
 it with the hand so as to be nearly an inch and a half high in 
 the middle, but sloping downwards nearly even with lh°, paste 
 on each side. Set it in a gentle oven, and bake i. mode¬ 
 rately, Wet the paper, to bring it off warm, and then having 
 cut the rusk into shapes, put them again into the oven. 
 When dry and brown they will be fit for use. ”1 he carra¬ 
 ways may be omitted. 
 
 Dutch Rusks. 
 
 Three pounds of flour, half a pound of butter, a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar, mix half a pint of new milk with a 
 
FANCV BREAD, ROLLS, &C. 
 
 hm 
 
 quarter of a pint of yeast; rub the flour, sugar, and butter 
 together; set sponge with the milk; when risen, work up the 
 dough, make it in small balls, bake on tins in a moderate 
 oven a quarter of an hour; next day cut them in two, and 
 dry them in the oven. 
 
 Cringles. 
 
 Rub a quarter of a pound of butter in one pound of 
 flour, and two ounces of sugar; set sponge with half the 
 flour, two spoonfuls of yeast, and a quarter of a pint 
 of milk; when risen, add the other to it, with two eggs, 
 and a quarter of a pint more milk, to make it into a light 
 dough; roll it out the thickness of your finger, make it 
 in the shape of a figure of eight, let it rise on the tins 
 before baking; when baked, wash them over with milk and 
 sugar, mixed. 
 
 Excellent Diet Bread. 
 
 Sift a pound of the finest flour, and dry it well by the fire. 
 Beat up eight eggs, for a short time ; and then, adding, by de¬ 
 grees, a pound of loaf-sugar, beaten and sifted, continue beating 
 them together for an hour and a half. Then, having before 
 taken the flour from the fire, strew it in cold; with half an 
 ounce of carraway and coriander seeds mixed together and 
 slightly bruised. The beating, in the mean time, must not 
 cease, nor he at all discontinued, till the whole is put into the 
 paper mould or hoop, and set in a quick, but not too hot oven. 
 One hour will be quite sufficient to bake d. 
 
 Hunting Bread . 
 
 Mix a pound and a half of fine flour, and a pound of sugar, 
 then add carraway and coriander seeds, as many as may be 
 thought prouer, with six yelks ol eggs and four of the whites 
 beat up in a little rose water, and strained into the flour. Alter 
 which, nut in a little yeast, to make the dough light; roll it 
 out thin; and cut it into pieces like lozenges, to be baked on 
 buttered papers or tin sheets. 
 
58 4 
 
 B'UNS. 
 
 Balloon Cakes. 
 
 Mix two spoonfuls o : yeast with four of cream ; add it to 
 r.ix of flour, make it into a dough, set it to rise in a warm 
 place, roll it very thin, and cut with a round cutter; bake on 
 tins four minutes. 
 
 *■ ** -b + * 
 
 BUNS. 
 
 London Wigs. 
 
 i 
 
 Two pounds of finest flour; rub therein half a pound of 
 butter, half a pound of fine sugar, half an ounce of carraway 
 seeds, half a pint of ale yeast, and two eggs. Beat well to¬ 
 gether the eggs, yeast, a little of the flour, and three or 
 four spoonfuls of milk; strain it into the middle, and strew 
 some of the flour over it; let it stand twelve hours or loncer, 
 then make it up in a pretty tender paste with lukewarm milk; 
 mould the wigs, and set them before the fire one hour to rise; 
 then wash them over with the yelk of one egg beaten with 
 two spoonfuls of milk. 
 
 Bath Buns. 
 
 Half a pound of butter, half a pound of flour; rub the 
 butter well in, add five eggs and three table-spoonfuls of very 
 thick yeast. Set it before the fire to rise when it has risen 
 sufficiently add a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, one 
 ounce of carraways; mix them within, then roll it out into 
 little cakes and bake them on tins. Strew carraway comfits 
 on the tops before baking them. 
 
 Another way.—Take one pound and a quarter of flour; 
 set sponge, with half a pint of milk, and two spoonfuls of 
 yeast; when risen, add half a pound of butter, melted, half a 
 pout'd of sugar, and four eggs; mix it into a paste, lay it on 
 tins rough, sprinkle Scotch carraways over, and bake a quarter 
 of an houj. 
 
BUNS. 
 
 565 
 
 Bath Cakes or Buns 
 
 Hull half a pound of butter into a pound of flour, and add 
 four beat eggs, and a glassful of yeast. Set this before the 
 fire to rise ; then add four ounces of sifted sugar, and a few 
 earraway-seeds. Roll the paste into thin sheets, and stamp 
 them out. Bake them on tins. They should rise very light. 
 
 This is made into Bath buns by moulding the paste in the 
 shape of buns, and strewing a few sugar-carraways over the 
 tops. 
 
 Carr away Comfit Wigs, Buns, or Cakes. 
 
 Rub half a pound of new butter in two quarts of fine dried 
 and sifted flour; then adding a quarter of a pound of carra- 
 way comfits, beat up two yelks of eggs, three table-spoonfuls 
 of ale yeast, with a little salt, and put them also to the flour, 
 adding a pint or more of new milk, and mix the whole toge¬ 
 ther. The paste must be equally well worked, and beat till 
 it leaves the hand ; when it should be set before the fire, to 
 rise, for about half an hour. In the mean time, having 
 ready a quarter of a pound of finely powdered and sifted loaf 
 sugar, roll pieces of the paste well among it, make them up 
 in shape, place them on tins, dust a little sugar over them, 
 and set them in the oven. They may be eaten hot or cold; 
 and are esteemed very good, when toasted, for tea. They 
 are sometimes made with plain carraway seeds, instead of com¬ 
 fits ; and, sometimes, the paste thus formed is made into a 
 single seed cake, for which it is equally well adapted. 
 
 Common Buns. 
 
 Take two pounds of flour and one of beat sugar, and mix 
 them. Make a hole in the middle of the flour, and put in a 
 glassful of thick yeast, and half a pint of warmed milk. 
 Make a thin batter of the surrounding flour and the milk, 
 and set the dish covered before the fire till the leaven begins 
 to ferment. Then put to the mass half a pound of melted 
 butter, and milk enough to make a soft paste of all the flour. 
 Cover this with a dust of flour, and let it once more rise for 
 half an hour. Then shape the dough into buns, and lay 
 
566 
 
 BUNS. 
 
 them apart on buttered tin plates in rows; to rise for half an 
 hour. Bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Cross Buns 
 
 Are made of the same sort of dough, with the addition of a 
 little more sugar, and a seasoning of cinnamon, allspice and 
 mace. When moulded, they have the figure of a cross 
 impressed on them with a stamp. 
 
 Seed Buns 
 
 Are also made as above, with the addition of carraway-seeds. 
 They may be baked in pans and glazed. 
 
 Plum Buns. 
 
 Mix with the dough of common cross-buns, currants, can¬ 
 died orange-peel, blanched almonds chopped, and a seasoning 
 of cinnamon and mace. Mark them round the edge when 
 moulded, and bake as common buns. 
 
 A Scotch Half-peck Bun. 
 
 Take half a peck of flour, keeping out a little to work it 
 up with; make a hole in the middle of the flour, and break 
 in sixteen ounces of butter; pour in a pint of warm water, 
 and three gills of yeast, and work it up into a smooth dough. 
 If it is not wet enough, put in a little more warm water, 
 then cut off one third of the dough, and lay it aside for the 
 cover. Take three pounds of stoned raisins, three pounds of 
 cleaned currants, half a pound of blanched almonds cut long¬ 
 ways; candied orange and citron peel, cut, of each eight 
 ounces; half an ounce of cloves, an ounce of cinnamon, and 
 two ounces of ginger, all beat and sifted. Mix the spices 
 by themselves, then spread out the dough ; lay the fruit upon 
 it; strew the spices over the fruit, and mix all together. 
 When it is well kneaded, roll out the cover, and lay the bun 
 upon it; then cover it neatly, cut it round the sides, prickle it, 
 and bind it with paper to keep it in shape; set it in a pretty 
 quick oven, and, just before you take it out, glaze the top 
 with a beat egg. 
 
BISCUITS. 
 
 Naples Biscuit. 
 
 Beat eight eggs in a large bowl or pan with three spoon¬ 
 fuls of rose water, whip them to a light froth, strewing in at 
 the same time one pound of fine powdered sugar; then take 
 out the whisk, and put in one pound of the finest flour; mix 
 it well together; the pans being papered, fill them, scrape 
 over a little double refined sugar, and bake them as soon as 
 possible. 
 
 Biscuit Drops. 
 
 Take three large eggs (leaving out one white,) two spoon¬ 
 fuls of rose water, half a pound of single refined sugar sifted, 
 a few carraway seeds, whip these well together till it is a light 
 froth ; then take out the whisk and put in half a pound of the 
 finest flour, mix the substance well together, then drop them 
 smaxi and ice them with a little double refined sugar. Bake 
 them as soon as possible. 
 
 Biscuits. 
 
 Equal weight of flour, eggs, and Deaten sugar to mix as 
 follows: viz. the yelks of the eggs and the beaten sugar to 
 be mixed well together; then add the vlutes beaten to a 
 strong froth, then the flour, to be baked in paper cases on 
 
 tins. 
 
 Hard Biscuits. 
 
 Warm two ounces of butter in as much skimmed milk as 
 will make a pound of flour into a very stiff paste, beat it with 
 a rolling pin, and work it very smooth. Roll it thin, and 
 cut it into round biscuits ; prick them full of holes with a fork. 
 About six minutes will bake them. 
 
568 
 
 SPONGE AND OTli r R SIMILAR CAKES, 
 
 Plain and very Crisp Biscuits. 
 
 Make a pound of flour* ihe yelk of an egg, and some milk, 
 into a very stiff paste; beat it well, and knead till quite 
 smooth; roll very thin, and cut into biscuits. Bake them in 
 a slow oven till quite dry and crisp. 
 
 -"O— 
 
 SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES 
 
 Sponge Cake. 
 
 The weight of five eggs in sugar, and three in flour, whisk 
 the whites to a stiff froth, beat the yelks well and mix them; 
 then stir in the sugar and add the flour last. ^ If beat after 
 the eggs are mixed the cake will not be light. Bake in 
 rather a quick oven. 
 
 An excellent Recipe for a Sponge Cake. 
 
 Take twelve eggs, separate the yelks from the whites, beat 
 them separately for three quarters of an hour, by which time 
 the whites will have become a strong froth. Have ready one 
 pound and a quarter of fine sugar, and three quarters of a 
 pound of fine flour both?- sifted, mix all together, but do not 
 beat the cake any more. Well butter the tins. Half fill 
 and bake in a quick oven one hour. 
 
 Another way.—Three quarters of a pound of sugar sifted, 
 six ounces of butter, and seven eggs. These proportions to 
 be mixed in the same manner as directed in the foregoing 
 rticle. 
 
 Diet Bread Cake. 
 
 Boil, in half a pint of water, one pound and a half of lump 
 sugar; have ready one pint of eggs, three parts yelks, iu a 
 
SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. 5£& 
 
 pan; pour m the sugar, and whisk it quick till cold, or about 
 a quarter of an hour : then stir in two pounds of sifted flour, 
 case the insides of square tins with white paper, fill them three 
 parts full, sift a little sugar over, and bake it in a warm ovei 
 and while hot remove them from the moulds. 
 
 Naples biscuits are made in the same way, only baked oi- 
 long tin moulds, papered. 
 
 Savoy Cake , to turn out of mould. 
 
 Take ten eggs, one pound of sugar, three quarters of a 
 pound of flour, the peel of one lemon, grated, two drops of 
 essence of lemon; separate, and whisk up the whites to bear 
 an egg; stir the yelks and sugar together well, and mix the 
 whites with them; then stir the flour in gently, and put in 
 the mould, well papered round the outside, in a moderate 
 oven for one hour and a quarter. 
 
 N. B. The mould should be buttered with clarified butter, 
 half cold, with a brush ; put some fine sifted sugar all over it 
 after being buttered. To try when the cake is done, stick a 
 piece of dry whisk in the middle of it; if it comes out quite 
 dry, it is done; if the least sticky, it wants more baking. 
 
 Palais Royal Biscuits. * 
 
 Take one pound of eggs, one pound of sugar, half a pound 
 of flour; separate the eggs; whisk up the whites strong 
 enough to bear an egg; stir the yelks in the whites, whisked, 
 then the sugar, the rind of one lemon, grated, two drops of 
 the essence of bergamot, and lastly, the flour, very gently, 
 put them in square tin cases, buttered; sift sugar over them, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Sponge Biscuits. 
 
 Take one pound of eggs, one pound of sugar, ten ounces 
 of flour; break, and whisk the eggs and the sugar, with the 
 rind of one lemon, grated, together, in a pan near the fire, 
 till the mixture gets warm, but not hot; then whisk it till 
 cold; stir the flour in gently, and fill it in small square tin 
 moulds, or paper cases; sift sugar over, and bake ten minutes. 
 c 24 f D 
 
570 
 
 SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. 
 
 N» B. A couple of drops of essence of lemon may be addeo* 
 if agreeable. 
 
 Savoy Biscuits. 
 
 Make the same mixture as for palais royal; lay them ou» 
 on paper, in the shape of a figure of eight, with a funnel 
 sift sugar over them, and bake in a quick oven; cut them o 
 the papers and join them together. 
 
 Judges' Biscuits. 
 
 Nine eggs, one pound of sugar, one pound of flour; pro 
 ceed the same as sponge biscuits; add one spoonful of cara* 
 way seeds; lay them out round on paper, with a funnel; sif 
 sugar over, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Italian Biscuits. 
 
 Make the same paste as judges’ biscuits; spread them out 
 round and flat on paper, with a tin rim, the size of a saucer 
 bake, and when cold wet the opposite side of the paper with 
 a sponge; take them off, and dry quite crisp in the oven, and 
 cut them round. 
 
 Cream Biscuits. 
 
 Make the same paste as for palais royal, whisk one pint of 
 cream up to a thick froth ; add it to the mixture ; put them 
 in paper moulds, sift sugar over them, and bake seven minutes 
 »n a quick oven. They should be served hot. 
 
 American Pot-ash Cakes or Biscuits. 
 
 Take a pound of flour, and mix with it a quarter of a 
 pound of butter; then, having dissolved and well stirred ? 
 quarter of a pound of sugar in half a pint of milk, and made 
 a solution of about half a tea-spoonful of salt of tartar, crystal 
 of soda, or any other purified potash, in half a tea-cupful ot 
 cold water, pour them, also, among the flour, work up the 
 paste to a good consistence, roll it out, and form it into caker 
 or biscuits. The lightness of these cakes depending much 
 
SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. £1 * 
 
 on the expedition with which they are baked, they should he 
 set in a brisk oven. 
 
 Chocolate Biscuits. 
 
 Break six eggs, and put the yelks of four into one pan, 
 and the whites of the whole six into another; add to the 
 yelks an ounce and a half of chocolate, bruised very fine, 
 with six ounces of fine sugar. Beat the whole well together; 
 and then put in the whites of six eggs whipped to a froth. 
 When they are well mingled, stir in by little and little six 
 ounces of flour, and put the biscuits on white paper, or iu 
 small paper moulds, buttered ; throw over a little fine sugar, 
 and bake them in an oven moderately heated. 
 
 Almond Biscuits. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, blanch and 
 pound them fine in a mortar, sprinkling them from time to 
 time with a little fine sugar; then beat them a quarter of an 
 hour with an ounce of flour, the yelks of three eggs, and four 
 ounces of fine sugar, adding afterwards the whites of four- 
 eggs whipped to a froth. Have ready some paper moulds, made 
 like boxes, about the length of two fingers square; butter them 
 within, and put in the biscuits, throwing over them equal 
 quantities of flour and powdered sugar: bake them in a cool 
 oven ; and, when done of a good colour, take them out of the 
 papers. Bitter almond biscuits are made in the same man¬ 
 ner ; with this difference only, that to every two ounces of 
 bitter almonds must be added an ounce of sweet almonds. 
 
 Hitherto these cakes only have been spoken of, into tne 
 composition of which butter and fruits are not at all or very 
 sparingly admitted. The following remarks apply more par¬ 
 ticularly to cakes in which those articles form principal ingre¬ 
 dients. They are, however, worthy of general observation, and 
 admit of general application. 
 
672 
 
 SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. 
 
 It is perhaps scarcely necessary again to observe, that in 
 the composition of cakes, as well as of puddings and pastry, 
 the flour should be dry and sifted, loaf sugar rolled and 
 sifted, butter worked with the hand to a cream,* eggs well and 
 separately beaten, that is, the yelks and whites apart. This 
 process is greatly assisted if it can be carried on over or near 
 the fire; for this purpose a tin bowl is very convenient. Eggs 
 are intended not only to enrich the cake but to make it light, 
 which intention is greatly promoted by their being thoroughly 
 beaten. 
 
 Plumbs must be stoned, and currants carefully picked, 
 washed, and dried; candied lemon, orange, or citron peel, 
 shred very small or cut in slices, and all these ingredients 
 shaken in powder sugar, or in a little flour before they are 
 added to the composition. Fresh lemon peel may be either 
 grated off with a hard lump of sugar, which is then to be 
 rolled and added to the composition, or shaved off and 
 pounded in a mortar to a paste, with a little cream. 
 
 Spice pounded very fine and sifted. 
 
 Almonds blanched by dipping them in hot water and re¬ 
 moving the skins. 
 
 Yeast should be fresh, sweet, and thick; if at all suspected 
 of bitterness, a bit of hot charcoal may be put in, or a bit of 
 bread toasted very dry and used burning hot; after either of 
 these have remained in a few minutes, remove them, put to 
 the yeast an equal quantity of water, let it stand awhile to 
 settle, then pour off the water and strain the yeast. Cakes 
 prepared with yeast require to stand some time in gentle 
 warmth, that they may rise before being put into the oven; 
 otherwise, as soon as the ingredients are thoroughly incor¬ 
 porated, the cake should be put into the oven that the fruit 
 may not sink. 
 
 * It is sometimes directed to melt the butter in milk or water, and where 
 jhis direction occurs in approved recipes, we shall not interfere with it, 
 but merely repeat as a matter of experience, that if a short eating cake be 
 desired, the best way is to work the butter with the hand, and add the 
 other ingredients to it. 
 
SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. 573 
 
 To prevent cakes being scorched, folds of paper may be 
 put over the top and round the sides. Cakes may be baked 
 either in wooden hoops with paper bottoms, or tin moulds, or 
 if very stiff merely on tins, as loaves are sometimes baked; the 
 former method is generally prefered. 
 
 Cakes should be put into a quick oven, and of sufficient 
 strength to keep up an equal heat until they are done. 
 
 To judge whether a cake is sufficiently done, a knife or 
 whisk may be plunged into the heart and quickly drawn out; 
 if any dough or stickness adhere to the knife, the cake must 
 be instantly replaced in the oven ; but if it draws out clean, it 
 may be concluded that the cake is done. 
 
 The poor Man’s Cake* 
 
 Quarter of a pound of butter, half a pound of sugar, one 
 pound of currants, one ounce of candied peel cut small, to be 
 rubbed into three pounds of common bread dough 
 
 Dripping Cakes , much used in the Country. 
 
 They are eaten hot for breakfast, and are equally good 
 cold, sliced and buttered. Half a quartern of dough, three 
 quarters of a pound of good dripping (lard, or butter if you 
 please,) six ounces of moist sugar, knead them well together, 
 roll it out about twice the ordinary thickness of pie crust, and 
 bake twenty minutes on tins. 
 
 Those who do not bake at home send the dripping and 
 sugar to their bread baker, who makes it up without any ad¬ 
 ditional charge beyond the price of a loaf of that size; some 
 people prefer it without sugar. In lone places, where there 
 is no oven at hand, these cakes are often baked in a frying 
 pan, in which case they require a longer time .0 do, and 
 must be turned that both sides may be brown. 
 
 * Those who have not tried, will not easily believe how good this 
 cake is ; or tasting it, will hardly credit that there are no more enriching 
 ingredients, 
 
574 
 
 SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. 
 
 A Plain Cake, either Currant or Seed. 
 
 One pound and a half of butter, or half butter and half 
 lard or dripping; in a pan large enough to knead the cake, 
 work it with your hand till it becomes like cream ; then have 
 ready three or four eggs well beaten, which thoroughly mix 
 with the butter; then add a quartern of good light dough, 
 knead it well with your hand till the whole is well incor¬ 
 porated ; when this is the case, spread the dough, scatter over 
 one pound and a half of sugar, one pound and a half of cur¬ 
 rants, or an ounce of caraway seeds, three or four ounces of 
 candied peel, a little grated ginger, all-spice and nutmeg, and 
 knead the whole again. Have your tins or dishes buttered 
 inside and warm; they should be little more than half filled : 
 stand them covered with a cloth or flannel in the influence of 
 the fire to rise. In about half an hour put them in the oven ; 
 as soon as they are done enough, take them out of the moulds 
 and place them hollow and bottom upwards to cool, so that all 
 steam may pass off and a current of air pass round them every 
 way. If suffered to cool in the pans in which they were 
 baked, the steam settles at bottom and makes the cakes 
 swampy and heavy.—This remark applies to cakes in general. 
 
 Ayres's rich Plum Cake. 
 
 Four pounds of flour, three pounds of currants, one pound 
 of raisins stoned and chopped small, two large nutmegs, cin¬ 
 namon three drachms, mace and cloves enough to make up an 
 ounce, all finely powdered, mix these well together. Then 
 take one pint of ale yeast, ten eggs (leaving out five whites) 
 and four spoonfuls of the best brandy, strain it into the middle 
 of the flour • then pour in on one side a pint and a half of 
 cream, with one pound of butter melted therein, put it in 
 when lukewarm, mix the whole well together with candied 
 citron, lemon, and orange peel of each two ounces; let it 
 stand one hour by the fire to rise before you put it into the 
 hoop. 
 
 To ice a Cake. 
 
 Beat the whites of three eggs with three quarters of a 
 
SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKE& 
 
 575 
 
 pound of double refined sugar sifted ; beat it for naif an hour 
 or longer, and the cake being baked, lay it on and harden i 
 at the oven’s mouth. 
 
 A rich Plum Cake . 
 
 Take three pounds and a half of butter, one pound and a 
 quarter of sugar, two pounds and a half of flour, one pound 
 of candied orange and lemon-peel, a quarter of a pound of 
 citron, four pounds of currants, thirty eggs, two lemon-peels 
 grated, a spoonful of mace, ditto of cinnamon, ditto of nut¬ 
 meg, four ounces of sliced almonds, a quarter of a pint of 
 brandy; melt and rub the butter to a cream; work in the 
 sugar and eggs by degrees ; put in the spice and brandy, and 
 mix the flour and sweetmeats in gently ; put it in a hoop, 
 papered, and wrap paper round the outside, and bake it four 
 hours. 
 
 Another Plum Cake, not so rich. 
 
 One pound and a quarter of sugar, one pound fourteen 
 ounces of flour, three ounces of candied citron, six ounces of 
 ^itto orange, six ounces ditto lemon-peel, two pounds and a 
 half of currants, one pound six ounces of butter, three ounces 
 of almonds in slices, ten eggs, a glass of brandy, one nutmeg, 
 grated, spoonful of cinnamon and mace together, in powder; 
 make it the same as the above cake, and bake as directed. 
 
 Another way.—Take equal weight of currants and flour; 
 about a pound of each will make a cake of good size; a 
 pound and a half will make a large one. Beat twelve ounces 
 of fresh butter to a cream. Beat also sixteen e^crs to a 
 
 uo 
 
 cream with a whisk in a tin pan, and set them over the fire 
 with a pound of sifted sugar, whisking all the time. When 
 warm take them off, and continue to beat till they are cold, 
 when the butter must be well mixed with them, and then the 
 currants, which should be previously picked, dried in a cloth, 
 and rubbed in flour. Put to this half a pound of candied 
 citron, lemon and orange peel cut in long bits, half an ounce 
 of hitter almonds beat to a paste with a little sugar, two 
 
576 SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES, 
 
 f 
 
 ounces of sweet almonds blanched and cut the long way, half 
 an ounce of.pounded cinnamon and mace, and a little curaqoa, 
 or any highly flavoured liquor, or plain brandy. Paper a 
 hoop, and pour in the cake. 
 
 Another way.—Half a pound of flour, half a pound of 
 butter, half a pound of raisins, half a pound of currants, six 
 ounces of sugar, four eggs, a little lemon peel, mace, cloves, 
 and nutmeg; two spoonfuls of orange flour water, and a little 
 brandy. 
 
 Another way.—Take half a peck of flour, half a pint of 
 rose water, a pint of cream, a pint of ale yeast, boil it, then a 
 pound and a half of butter, six eggs without the whites, four 
 pounds of currants, a pound of sugar, one nutmeg, and a 
 little salt; work it very well, and let it stand an hour by the 
 fire, and then work it again, and make it up, and let it stand 
 an hour and a half in the oven. Take care that the oven 
 not too hot. 
 
 A very rich Twelfth Cake. 
 
 Put into seven pounds of fine flour two pounds and a haif 
 of fresh butter, and seven pounds of nicely picked and cleans¬ 
 ed currants, with two large nutmegs, half an ounce of mace, 
 and a quarter of an ounce of cloves, and a pound of loaf 
 sugar, all finely beaten and grated ; sixteen eggs, leaving out 
 four whites, and a pint and a half of the best yeast. Warm 
 as much cream as will wet this mass, and pour mountain wine 
 to make it as thick as batter; beat grossly, a pound of 
 almonds mixed with mountain wine and orange-flower water, 
 and put in a pound and a half of candied orange, lemon, and 
 citron peel. Mix the whole well together, and put the cake 
 into a hoop, with paste under it, to save the bottom while it 
 is baking. 
 
 The following is a fine iceing for a twelfth cake:—T^ake 
 the whites of five eggs, whipped up to a froth, and put to 
 them a pound of double refined sugar powdered and sifted, 
 and three spoonfuls of orange-flower water. Beat it up all 
 the time the cake is in the oven; and, the moment it comes 
 out ice over the top with the spoon. Some also put into the 
 
SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. 
 
 577 
 
 the iceing a grain of ambergris, but that perfume is too power¬ 
 ful for many tastes. A little lemon juice is often used 
 instead of the orange-flower water. 
 
 The celebrated Banbury Bride Cake . 
 
 Take a peck of the finest flour; half an ounce each of 
 beaten and sifted mace, nutmegs, and cinnamon; two pounds 
 of fresh butter; ten yelks and six whites of eggs ; and some¬ 
 what more than a pint of good ale yeast. Beat the eggs 
 well; strain them, with the yeast and a little warm water, 
 into the flour; and add the butter cold, broken into small 
 bits. The water with which the paste is kneaded must be 
 scalding hot; and, on being thus well worked together, it is 
 to be set to rise near the fire, covered by a warm cloth, for 
 about a quarter of an hour. This being done, ten pounds of 
 picked and cleansed currants are to be prepared with a little 
 musk and ambergris dissolved in rose-water. The currants 
 must be made very dry, otherwise they will render the cake 
 heavy; and finely powdered loaf sugar is to be strewed 
 among them, fully sufficient for supplying all the natural 
 sweetness of which they have been deprived by the water 
 wherein they were washed. The paste being now all broken 
 into small pieces, the currants are to be added in alternate 
 layers, a layer of paste and a layer of currants, till the whole 
 are well mingled, but without breaking the currants. A 
 piece of paste, after it has risen in a warm cloth before the 
 fire, must be taken out, before putting in the currants, to 
 cover the top of the cake, as well as for the bottom. Both- 
 the paste for the top and bottom must be rolled rather thin, 
 and wetted with rose-water; but it may be closed either at the 
 bottom, on the side, or in the middle, as it shall seem best, 
 Prick the top and sides with a small long pin ; and, whet, 
 the cake is ready to go into the oven, cut it with a knife, 
 in the midst of the side, an inch deep all round; and, if it 
 be of the size thus directed, it must stand two hours in a 
 brisk oven. 
 
 a 85 4 e 
 
518 
 
 SPONGE AND OTHER SIMILAR CAKES. 
 
 Scotch Short Bread . 
 
 To the fourth of a pe* of flour take six ounces ot sifted 
 sugar and of candied orange peel, citron and blanched almonds, 
 two ounces each. Cut these in rather large pieces, and mix 
 them with the flour. Rub down among the flour a pound 
 of butter in very minute bits, and melt half a pound, and 
 with this work up the flour, &c. The less kneading it gets 
 the more short and crisp the cakes will be. Roll out the paste 
 into a large well-shaped oval cake about an inch and a half 
 thick, and divide this. Pinch the cakes neatly at the edges, 
 and mark them on the top with the instrument used for the 
 purpose, or with a fork. Strew caraway comfits over the 
 top, and a few stripes of citron. Bake on paper rubbed with 
 flower. 
 
 Observation.—Plainer short bread may be made by 
 using less butter and no candied fruit. The whole of the 
 butter may be melted, which makes the process easier. 
 
 Plain Pound Cake. 
 
 Beat a pound of cold butter to a cream, and put to it nine 
 eggs well beat. Beat them together till well mixed and 
 light; and put to them a little shred lemon-peel, or a few 
 blanched almonds chopped, sugar, and a pound and a quarter 
 of dried and sifted flour. Bake in a pan for an hour, in a 
 rather quick oven ; two small cakes may be made of the same 
 ingredients. 
 
 The addition of half a pound of currants, a few raisins, and 
 half a pound of candied lemon and orange-peel, with nutmeg 
 and cinnamon to taste, will make this a good plum cake of 
 moderate richness; or it may also be converted into a fine 
 seed cake, by adding caraway and coriander seeds to tne 
 plain cake. 
 
r 579 3 
 
 SEED CAKES. 
 
 Malbro rough Cake. 
 
 Beat aud strain eight eggs, and add to them a pound of 
 sugar powdered and sifted. Beat up the whole three quar¬ 
 ters of an hour, then add twelve ounces of flour well dried, 
 and two ounces of caraways; beat all again well, and bake it 
 on tin plates in a hot oven. 
 
 Nun’s Cake. 
 
 Mix four pounds of flour, and three of double-refined 
 sugar beaten and sifted. Let the whole stand before the fire, 
 and meanwhile, beat four pounds of butter with a cool hand in 
 a deep dish, all one way 5 till it is like cream. Next beat the 
 yelks of thirty-five eggs, and the whites of sixteen. Strain 
 this, and beat the whole with the butter till thoroughly unit¬ 
 ed. Mix in four or five spoonfuls of orange-flower or rose¬ 
 water, then take the flour and sugar, with six ounces of ca¬ 
 raways, and strew them in by degrees. Beat the whole two 
 hours longer, add some essence of cinnamon, butter a hoop 
 and bake it three hours 
 
 A Rich Seed Cake 
 
 Rub fine three pounds of butter in three pounds of tho 
 finest flour; add thereto three pounds single-refined sugar 
 sifted ; four ounces caraway seeds, half an ounce of mace 
 and cloves, beat fine; twenty new laid eggs, leaving out ten 
 whites, well beat in with eight spoonfuls of the best brandy; 
 work it with your hands for half an hour or longer; then the 
 oven being ready, and the hoop well buttered, bake it about 
 three hours. 
 
h S') 
 
 SEED IaK.ES 
 
 A Fine Seed Cake. 
 
 fake a pound and a half of flour, and sixteen eggs well 
 whisked. Mix with them a pound and a half of finely beaten 
 Fugar, and whisk them well together. Throw in half a 
 pound of cut candied citron, lemon and orange-peel, and four 
 ounces of almonds blanched and cut. Mix this with the pound 
 and a half of dried flour, and twelve ounces of butter beaten to 
 a cream. Season with cinnamon and cloves, and throw in a 
 few caraway seeds. Smooth the top of tnis (and every 
 ?>ort of cake) when put into the hoop, and throw sugared ca¬ 
 raways over it. 
 
 A Common Seed Cake. 
 
 Mix half a pound of best white sugar with two pounds of 
 flour in a large bowl or pan. Make a hole in the centre, 
 and pour into it half a pint of lukewarm milk, and two spoon¬ 
 fuls of yeast. Mix a little of the surrounding flour with 
 this, and, throwing a cloth over the vessel, set it in a warm 
 place for an hour or two. Add to this half a pound of melt¬ 
 ed butter, an ounce of caraway seeds, and a little all spice, 
 ginger and nutmeg, and milk sufficient to make the whole of 
 a proper stiffness. Butter a hoop, and pour in the mixture. 
 Let it stand half an hour at the mouth of the oven, to rise, 
 and then bake it. 
 
 To make a good Seed Cake. 
 
 Take two pounds of butter beaten to a cream, a quarter ol 
 a peck of flour, a pound and three quarters of fine sugar, 
 hree ounces of candied orange-peel and citron, one ounce of 
 caraway seeds, ten <?ggs, but only five whites; • a little rose¬ 
 water, a few cloves, mace, and nutmeg; a little new yeast, 
 and half a pint of cream ; then bake it in a hoop, and butter 
 your paper; when it is baked, ice it over with the whites 
 of c'l-o-s and sutrar, and set it in again to harden. 
 
SEED CAKES. 
 
 
 For making a light Seed Cake. 
 
 Take halF a quartern of flour, a little nutmsg and ginger, 
 three eggs well beaten, three spoonfuls of ale yeast, half a pound 
 of butter, and six ounces of smooth caraway seeds, and work 
 it in warm together with your hand. 
 
 For making a cheap Seed Cake. 
 
 Put a pound and a half of butter in a saucepan with a pint 
 of new milk; set it on the fire; take a pound of sugar, half 
 an ounce of allspice beaten fine, and mix them with half a peck 
 of flour. When the butter is melted, pour it and the milk into 
 the middle of the flour, and work it up like paste; pour in 
 with the milk half a pint of good ale yeast, and set it before 
 the fire to rise just before it goes to the oven. You may 
 either put in some caraway seeds or currants, and bake it in 
 a quick oven. 
 
 If you bake it in two cakes, they will take an hour and a 
 half baking. 
 
 Rice Cake. 
 
 Mix half a pound of sifted rice flour, with half a pound of 
 loaf sugar, sifted, and put this to six eggs well whisked and 
 strained. Season with a little ratafia and orange-flower water, 
 and a drop or two of essence of lemon, or some finely grated 
 rind of lemon. Beat the whole together for twenty minutes, 
 and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Pepper Cake. 
 
 One pound and a half of flour, a pound and a half of trea¬ 
 cle, half a pound of moist sugar, half a pound of butter, a 
 tea-spoonful of pearl-ash, melted in a little milk, one ounce of 
 caraway seeds, half an ounce of ground ginger, a quarter of 
 an ounce of powdered cloves; mix all these well together, 
 with five eggs beaten up, and bake in a mould or tin, in a mo¬ 
 derate oven, two hours. 
 
582 
 
 SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 
 
 SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 
 
 Bath Cakes. 
 
 One pound of tne finest flour, into which rub half a pound 
 of butter, half a pound of fine sugar, half an ounce of cara¬ 
 way seeds, four spoonfuls each of brandy and sack, with as 
 much rose-water as will temper it to a paste; then make it 
 up in little thin cakes, wash them over with rose-water, scrape 
 over some double-refined sugar, and bake on a tin or a but¬ 
 tered paper. 
 
 Dutch Cake. 
 
 Two pounds of flour, half a pound of butter, three ounces 
 of ioaf sugar, two eggs, two spoonfuls of yeast, the peel of a 
 lemon, shred fine, and as much milk as will mix the whole: 
 one hour in a quick oven will bake it. 
 
 Small white Cakes. 
 
 Dry half a pound of flower, rub into it a very little pound¬ 
 ed sugar, one ounce of butter, one egg, a few caraways, and 
 as much milk and water as to make a paste; roll it thin, and 
 cut it with the top of a canister or glass. Bake fifteen minutes 
 on tin plates. 
 
 Small short Cakes. 
 
 Rub, into a pound of dried flour, four ounces of butter, 
 four ounces of white powdered sugar, one egg, and a spoonful 
 or two of thin cream to make it into a paste. When mixed, 
 put currants into one half, and caraways into the rest. Cut 
 them as before, and bake on tins. 
 
 Derby or Short Cakes. 
 
 Rub in with the hand one pound of butter into two 
 pounds of sifted flour; put one pound of currants, one pound 
 
SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 
 
 583 
 
 of good moist sugar, and one egg; mix all together with 
 half a pint of milk,—roll it out thin, and cut them into round 
 cakes with a cutter; lay them on a clean baking plate, and 
 put them into a middling heated oven, for about five mi¬ 
 nutes. 
 
 Queen Cakes . 
 
 Put one pound of fine sugar, one pound of fine flour, one 
 pound of butter, one pound of currants ; two drachms of cloves 
 and two drachms of mace; the yelks of ten new laid eggs, 
 well beaten, with four spoonfuls of brandy; work it with the 
 hand full half an hour. Then the pans being buttered, and 
 the oven ready, fill them and scrape over some double-refined 
 sugar. One ounce each of candied citron and lemon may be 
 added if approved. 
 
 Another way.—One pound and a quarter of butter, one 
 pound and a quarter of sugar, one pound and a half of flour, 
 half a pound of currants, one lemon-peel, grated, a spoonful 
 of cinnamon and mace; mix well with the hand and bake in 
 small round tins ten minutes. 
 
 Queen drops are made of this mixture dropped on wafer 
 paper, baked in a quick oven. 
 
 Chesterton Cake. 
 
 Put one pound of fine sugar, one pound of fine flour, sifted, 
 nine eggs, bitter almonds or lemon-peel. To be baked about 
 a quarter of an hour, in a moderate oven. 
 
 Crack-nuts. 
 
 Mix eight ounces of flour, and eight ounces of sugar ; men 
 four ounces of butter in two spoonfuls of raisin wine; then, 
 with four eggs beaten and strained, make into a paste; add 
 caraways, roll out as thin as paper, cut with the top of a 
 glass, wash with the white of an egg, and dust sugar over. 
 
581 
 
 SMALLER CAKFS OF VARIOUS SORTS*. 
 
 fsle of Wight Cracknels. 
 
 Sift a quart of the finest dry flour; and, beating up the 
 yelks of four eggs, with a little grated nutmeg, some powdered 
 loaf sugar, and half a gill of orange-flower or rose-water, pour 
 it into the flour, and make up a stiff paste. Then mix, and 
 roll in, by slow degrees, a pound of butter; and, when tho¬ 
 roughly united in a soft flexible paste, and rolled out to a 
 proper thickness, which is about the third part of an inch, cut 
 it into round cracknel shapes, throw them into boiling water, 
 and let them continue to boil in it till they swim on the sur¬ 
 face. They must then be taken out, and plunged in cold 
 water to harden; after which, they are to be slowly dried, 
 washed over with well beaten whites of eggs, and baked on 
 tin plates, in an oven sufficiently brisk to make them crisp, 
 but not by any means high coloured. 
 
 Banbury Cakes. 
 
 Take one pound of dough made for white bread; roll it 
 out and put bits of butter upon it the same as for puff-paste ; 
 till one pound is worked in, roll it out very thin, then cut it 
 into bits of an oval form, the size you wish to make the 
 cakes; the inside is composed of currants, moist sugar wet 
 with brandy, candied lemon-peel, cinnamon and nutmeg to 
 taste; a little is to be put on each bit of paste, close them up 
 and put the side that is closed next the tin ; do not let them 
 touch, bake them in a moderate oven, be careful not to over¬ 
 bake ; as soon as taken out sift sugar over them. 
 
 Another way.—Put a pound of flour in a dish, and make 
 a cavity in the middle, into which pour three table-spoonfuls 
 of good yeast, and a quarter of a pint of warm milk. When 
 it has begun to ferment, mix with the leaven eight ounces of 
 cleaned currants, six ounces of candied orange and lemon-peel, 
 two of citron, an ounce of cinnamon, grated nutmeg, and 
 cloves, and half a pound of drained honey. Mix the whole 
 well, and then roll out a. good puff-paste. Cut the puff-paste 
 
SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 
 
 580 
 
 by running a paste-cutter round a tea-cup or tumbler, and lay 
 Home of the Banbury cake mixture neatly on each of the puff- 
 pasle cakes. 
 
 Cinnamon Cakes. 
 
 Whisk six eggs with a glass of rose-water ; add a pound 
 of sifted sugar and a quarter of an ounce of ground cinnamon, 
 with flour enough to make a paste. Roll this out, and cut 
 it into small cakes. Bake them on paper. They may be 
 iced, or have sifted sugar strewed over them. 
 
 Sugar Tea-Cakes. 
 
 Make a paste with a pound of flour, twelve ounces of 
 sifted sugar, the yelks of two eggs, a little nutmeg or cinna¬ 
 mon, and a glass of orange-flower water. Roll it out thin, 
 cut with a stamp or glass, strew sugar over the cakes, and 
 bake them. 
 
 Kent Drop-Cakes. 
 
 A pound of flour, half a pound of butter, the same of sifted 
 sugar and currants. Make this into a paste with two eggs, 
 \wo spoonfuls of orange-flower water, a glass of brandy and 
 one of sweet wine. Mix up quickly, and drop the battei 
 through a biscuit funnel on floured tins, and bake for five or 
 six minutes. 
 
 Shrewsbury Cakes. 
 
 Take a pound of butter, and put it in a little flat pan, rub 
 it till it is as fine as cream; then take a pound of sugar, a 
 little cinnamon and mace pounded, and four eggs, yelks and 
 whites together; beat them with your hand till it is very 
 light; then take one pound and a half of sifted flour, work it 
 together and roll it on your dresser, to what size you like, 
 only very flat, let your oven be rather slow^ and let them 
 change their colour; then take them out. 
 b 25 4 f 
 
bHG 
 
 SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 
 
 Another way.—Take a pound of flour, three-quarters of n 
 pound of butter, five ounces of powdered loaf sugar, a drachm 
 of beaten cinnamon, and two eggs. Mix it all cold ; break¬ 
 ing the butter in pieces with the hand, and working the whole 
 into a light paste. Then roll it out thin enough for an ounce 
 weight of the paste to make a cake as large as the top of a 
 breakfast-cup or basin, with which it may be cut into shapes, 
 The papers on which the cakes are laid must be buttered all 
 over. At Shrewsbury, the cakes, when made, are marked at 
 the top with a new large-toothed horn comb. They are then 
 put into a quick but not too hot oven, as they are very apt to 
 burn ; and are baked almost as fast as they can be put in with 
 a slice. As they rise in the oven, they must be pricked with 
 a bodkin. It is necessary to be very quick, that they may 
 neither burn nor look brown. If they are but just hard, it is 
 quite sufficient. Particular caution must be used in drawing 
 them out of the oven, as well as in taking them off the paper; 
 they being extremely brittle, and soon broken to pieces. I he 
 above quantity of paste, made into large and very thin cakes, 
 makes two dozen; but some cut them with wine glasses, and 
 make them a little thicker. A blade or two of beaten mace 
 may be put in with the cinnamon, and also a little rose or 
 orange-flower water. 
 
 Tunbridge Cakes. 
 
 Rub six ounces of butter quite fine into a pound of flour, 
 then mix six ounces of sugar, beat and strain two eggs, and 
 make with the above into a paste. Roll it very thin, and 
 cut with the top of a glass; prick them with a fork, and cover 
 with caraways, or wash with the white of an egg, and dust a 
 little white sugar over. 
 
 Bristol Cakes. 
 
 Mix half a pound of the finest sifted wheat flour with a 
 quarter of a pound each of pounded and sifted loaf sugar and 
 fresh butter, and four yelks with two whites of eggs. Hav- 
 
SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 
 
 587 
 
 ing well united the whole together in a howl or pan, (which 
 is usually done at Bristol, with the hand only,) add half a 
 pound of nicely picked currants, and stir them well into in the 
 mixture. Having, in the mean time, rubbed over a large 
 plate of tin with butter, drop on it the mixture for forming 
 each cake, from a table-spoon, and set it in a brisk oven, 
 taking great care that they do not remain long enough to 
 burn. 
 
 Portugal Cakes. 
 
 Take a pound each of the finest dried and sifted flour, 
 powdered and sifted loaf sugar, and the best fresh butter. 
 Mix them up with the hand to a very fine batter ; and adding 
 two table-spoonfuls each of rose-water and white wine, half a 
 pound of washed and nicely picked currants, and a little 
 beaten mace, whisk up the yelks of ten eggs with the whites 
 of six, incorporate the whole well together, butter the tin 
 hoops or moulds, fill them little more than half full, sift a little 
 sugar over each cake, and bake them in a brisk oven. If the 
 cun ants are omitted, as is often done, they will keep good 
 half a year. A superior sort is sometimes made, by substi¬ 
 tuting a pound of blanched almonds beaten up with rose-water 
 for the pound of flour. 
 
 Almond Cakes. 
 
 Take one pound of dried flour, one pound of loaf sugar, 
 beaten fine, one pound of butter, three ounces sweet, and two 
 ounces of bitter almonds, blanched and beaten; rub them well 
 together with the yelks of three eggs and the white of one, 
 butter the tin, and place them in rough lumps. Lemon 
 cakes are made in the same manner, by substituting for the 
 almonds the shred rinds of two large lemons. 
 
 Another way.—Beat four ounces of sweet and two ounces 
 of bitter almonds, mix them with the white of an egg that 
 
 has been whisked to a froth ; sugar and candied-peel to your 
 taste. 
 
SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 
 
 res 
 
 Almond Paste. 
 
 To one pound of almonds put one pound of fine sifted 
 sugar, beat the almonds very fine, mix with orange-flower 
 water to keep them from oiling, then mix the sugar and al¬ 
 monds together, and stir them over the fire till the paste 
 quits the pan, then take and make it in what shape you 
 please. 
 
 An Almond Cake. 
 
 Take a pound and a quarter of flour, make a hole in the 
 middle, put in a piece of butter half the size of an hen s egg, 
 four eggs well beaten, a quarter of a pound of sugar powdered 
 fine, six ounces of almonds blanched and beaten with orange- 
 flower water, and a little salt. Mix the whole well together, 
 glaze it over with the yelk of an egg, and bake it on a tin well 
 buttered. 
 
 French Maccaroons. 
 
 Take a pound of sweet almonds and pound them very fine 
 in a mortar, with whites of eggs, and be careful they do not 
 oil ; then take three pounds of powdered sugar and mix with 
 the almonds and whites of eggs to a fine thickness, so as to 
 come off the spoon well; then put three sheets of paper on 
 your plate, and with a table-spoon drop them oft at a little 
 distance from each other so as not to touch, put them in 
 rather a brisk oven, but mind they do not burn ; bake them 
 of a very fine brown colour and crisp; then let them stand 
 till they are cold, before you take them off, but if they arc 
 burnt at bottom, they will not come off at all, so that you must 
 be very careful of them. 
 
 Ratafia Cakes. 
 
 Pound one pound of bitter and one pound of sweet al¬ 
 monds fine, with six whites of eggs ; add four pounds of sugar 
 and mix up with six more wnites of eggs in a stiff paste ; lay 
 
SMALLER CAKES OF VARIOUS SORTS. 68lJ 
 
 them out in the size of a nut on paper; bake in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 Another way.—Take eight ounces of apricot kernels or 
 bitter almonds, blanch them and beat them very fine with a 
 little brandy, mix them with the whites of three eggs, and put 
 two pounds of single-refined sugar, finely sifted, work all to¬ 
 gether and it will be like a paste; lay it in little round pieces 
 on floured tin plates, set them in an oven that is not too hot, 
 and they will puff up, and be soon baked. 
 
 Nut Cakes 
 
 Beat one pound of Barcelona nuts with three whites of 
 eggs; add one pound and a half of sugar, and mix up in a 
 thick paste, with three whites of eggs; lay them out small as 
 ratafias, on paper; bake in a cool oven. 
 
 While Almond Paste for Rout Cakes. 
 
 Beat one pound of dry almonds without oiling, with the 
 whites of three eggs ; add one pound of sugar, and one ounce 
 of flour to it; make in a stiff paste. 
 
 Note .—This may be rolled or cut in any shape, or forced 
 through a syringe, and made in any form ; it may be garnish¬ 
 ed with dried cherries, candied citron, orange or lemon-peel, 
 and green angelica: as there are many forms and different 
 names, according to fancy, it is useless to enumerate them. 
 Observe, that all almond biscuits, baked without wafer paper, 
 should have sifted sugar or flour under them when baked on 
 the paper. 
 
 Yellow Almond Paste for Rout Cakes. 
 
 Beat one pound of dry almonds, with six yelks of eggs, 
 fine; mix one pound of sugar and one ounce of-flour with it 
 in a stiff paste. 
 
 Note .—This paste is used the same as white almond paste, 
 and may lie cut in any shape. 
 
6i)0 
 
 GINGERBREAD IN VARIOU3 FORMS. 
 
 Raspberry Cubes. 
 
 With the fruit which is used for making vinegar, excellent 
 raspberry cakes are readily made up by mixing the fruit left 
 with somewhat more than its own weight of powdered loaf 
 sugar, forming it into small round cakes, sifting a little pow¬ 
 dered sugar on the top of each, and drying them sufficiently 
 in an oven or stove. 
 
 GINGERBREAD IN VARIOUS FORMS. 
 Gingerbread. 
 
 Two pounds and a half of the finest flour, half a pound of 
 brown sugar, two eggs, caraway seeds, corianders, and gin¬ 
 ger, of each one ounce; beat the spice, and sift it to the 
 flour; then melt half a pound of butter in one pound of 
 treacle, and pour into the flour when lukewarm. Make it 
 into a paste with two ounces of candied orange-peel cut in 
 bits, and make it in cakes of what shape and size you please. 
 When baked, dip in boiling water and beer to glaze. 
 
 Another way.—Three pounds of flour, one pound of su¬ 
 gar, one pound of butter, a pound and a half of treacle, half 
 an ounce of ginger, quarter of an ounce of cloves, one nutmeg, 
 and the peel of a good sized lemon ; make it into cakes and 
 bake it. 
 
 Another way.—Two pounds of flour well dried, one pound 
 and a quarter of treacle, one pound of brown sugar, half an 
 ounce of ginger finely powdered, one glass of brandy, one 
 pound of butter, well rubbed in the flour; mix all these to¬ 
 gether very well, till it comes to a paste, then roll it out, and 
 cut it into what shape you please, bake it on a tin ; a little 
 time will bake it. 
 
GINGERBREAD IN VARIOUS FORMS. 
 
 5yi 
 
 Fine Gingerbread. 
 
 T wo pounds of flour, half a pound of b*own sugar, half a 
 pound of orange-peel, cut into bits, an ounce of ground ginger, 
 half an ounce of caraway seeds, cloves, mace, and some all¬ 
 spice. Mix with these a pound and a half of treacle, and 
 half a pound of melted butter. Mix the ingredients well 
 together, and let them stand for some hours before rollinsr 
 out the cakes. The paste will require a little additional flour 
 in rolling out. Cut the cakes, mark the top in diamonds 
 with a knife, and bake them on tin plates. 
 
 Plain Gingerbread. 
 
 Mix, with a pound and a half of flour, four ounces of but¬ 
 ter, four of brown sugar, half an ounce of ground ginger, and 
 some allspice. Make this into a paste with two ounces of 
 hot treacle, and shape and bake the cakes. 
 
 Gingerbread without Butter. 
 
 Mix two pounds of treacle ; of orange, lemon, and citron, 
 and candied ginger, each four ounces, all thinly sliced ; one 
 ounce of coriander seeds, one ounce of caraways, and one 
 ounce of beaten ginger, in as much flour as will make a soft 
 paste ; lay it in cakes on tin plates, and bake it in a quick 
 oven. Keep it dry in a covered earthen vessel, and it will 
 be good for some months. 
 
 Dutch Gingerbread. 
 
 Take four pounds of flour, and mix with it two ounces 
 and a half of beaten ginger. Then rub in a quarter of a 
 pound of butter; and add two ounces of caraway seeds, two 
 ounces of dried orange-peel, rubbed to powder, a few bruised 
 
592 
 
 GINGERBREAD IN VARIUUS FORMS. 
 
 coriander seeds, a little candied citron, and two eggs. Make 
 tire whole into a stiff paste with two pounds and a quarter of 
 treacle; beat it very well with a rolling pin, and make it up 
 into thirty cakes. Prick them with a fork; butter papers, 
 three double, one white and two brown, to place them on ; 
 wash them over with the white of an egg; and put them into 
 a very moderately heated oven for three quarters of an 
 hour. 
 
 Orange Gingerbread. 
 
 Sift two pounds and a quarter of fine flour, and add to it 
 a pound and three quarters of treacle, six ounces of candied 
 orange-peel, cut small, three quarters of a pound of moist 
 sugar, one ounce of ground ginger, and one ounce of allspice: 
 melt to an oil three quarters of a pound of butter; mix the 
 whole well together, and lay it by for twelve hours ; roll it 
 out with as little flour as possible about half an inch thick, 
 cut it into pieces three inches long and two wide; mark them 
 in the form of chequers with the back of a knife, put them 
 on a baking plate about a quarter of an inch apart; rub 
 them over with a brush dipped into the yelk of an egg beaten up 
 with a tea-cupful of milk; bake it in a cool oven about a quar¬ 
 ter of an hour; when done, wash them slightly over again, 
 divide the pieces with a knife, as in baking they will run to¬ 
 gether. 
 
 Common Light Gingerbread. 
 
 Seven pounds of flour, seven pounds of treacle, two ounces 
 of ground ginger, two ounces and a half of pearl-ash, with 
 three ounces of alum, melted in a quarter of a pint of milk ; 
 mix all together in a paste, put in a mould, and bake in a hot 
 
 OV-Jtl. 
 
GINGERBREAD IN VARIOUS FORM8L 
 
 698 
 
 Ginger Cakes. 
 
 One pound of butter, two pounds of flour, half a pound of 
 brown sugar, two ounces of ground ginger, a nutmeg grated; 
 mix these ingredients stiff with cream, roll out, then cut with 
 a glass, bake on tins in a slow oven. 
 
 Gingerbread Nuts. 
 
 One pound of flour, half a pound of butter, half of a 
 nutmeg, one ounce of ground ginger, and as much treacle 
 as will work it into a stiff paste, which will be about three 
 quarters of a pound ; roll out thin, and cut with a small glass; 
 a short time will bake them. 
 
 Another way.—Take three pounds of flour, three pounds 
 of treacle, one pound of sugar, two ounces of ginger, one 
 ounce of all-spice, two ounces of candied peel, a pound and a 
 half of butter, or rather more of each. Rub in the butter 
 and flour thoroughly, then the sugar, then the spice, and 
 lastly the treacle. 
 
 Another way.—To two pounds of sifted flour put two 
 pounds of treacle, three quarters of a pound of moist sugar, 
 half a pound of candied orange-peel, cut small, one ounce and 
 a half of ground ginger, one ounce of ground allspice, cara¬ 
 ways, and corianders mixed, and three quarters of a pound of 
 butter oiled; mix all well together, and set it by some time, 
 then roll it out in pieces about the size of a small walnut; lay 
 them in rows on a baking plate, press them flat with the hand, 
 and bake them in a slow oven about ten minutes. 
 
 Fine Gingerbread Nuts. 
 
 Three pounds of flour, one pound of sugar, one poundanda 
 half of butter, three pounds and a half of treacle, two ounces 
 of ginger, one ounce of allspice, one candied orange and 
 lemon-peel, chopped fine, one lemon-peel, grated, one nut¬ 
 meg ; rub the flour and butter, add the other ingredients, 
 and make in a paste; lay them out on tins the size of a nut. 
 c 25 4 g 
 
594 
 
 GINGERBREAD IN VARIOUS FORMS. 
 
 Another way.—Four pounds of flour, two pounds of trea¬ 
 cle, half a pound of butter, and two ounces of ginger, one 
 ounce of caraway seeds, one pound of brown sugar, two 
 ounces of orange-peel, chopped fine, a quarter of an ounce of 
 allspice, a tea-cupful of brandy; mix them all together, and 
 lay them out the size of a nut on tins. 
 
 Queen's Gingerbread, 
 
 Two pounds of honey, one pouna and tnree quarters of 
 sugar, two pounds and three quarters of flour, half a pound of 
 almonds, chopped fine, half a pound of candied orange, half a 
 pound of lemon-peel, chopped fine, one ounce of cinnamon, 
 a quarter of an ounce of mace, a quarter of an ounce of car¬ 
 damoms, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, in powder, a quarter 
 of an ounce of nutmeg, grated ; melt the honey and one glass 
 of water, with the sugar, together; add it to the other ingre¬ 
 dients, and make it in a stiff paste, roll it out thin, and cut it 
 in square pieces the size of a card; when baked, wash it over 
 with clarified sugar. 
 
 Honeycomb , or Roll Gingerbread . 
 
 Rub together half a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, a quarter of a pound of fine moist sugar, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of ground ginger, ditto of allspice, ditto of cinna¬ 
 mon, in powder, the rind of one lemon, grated, and as much 
 treacle as will make it in a paste to spread on tins very thin, 
 bake it gently; when hot cut it in squares, and while warm 
 roll it over a stick, like wafers, till cold; keep it in a dry 
 
 \ 
 
[ 595 j 
 
 SWEETMEATS. 
 
 The preparation of these articles being little practised in 
 private families, we shall not occupy much space in directions 
 for them. Enough will be said to give a general idea of the 
 methods to be pursued, and experience will be the surest 
 guide in adopting any new varieties. But, from the trouble 
 and uncertainty attending these preparations to persons unac¬ 
 customed to them, and the small quantities used by families 
 in general, it will usually be found preferable to procure 
 them of the regular confectioners. As the ground work of 
 all practice in this department, the reader is referred to the 
 boiling of sugar, page 501 . 
 
 Drying Stove. 
 
 The most useful appendage in confectionery is a drying 
 stove, as almost every article in preserving, candying, drops, 
 and comfit making, requires the help of it; and as it is very 
 easily made, the still-room ought never to be without one. 
 
 The common closet made with iron bars, to reach across as 
 shelves, and tinned in the inside, will answer the purpose, 
 provided it shuts to keep in the hot air; a large iron pot, 
 with three legs and handle, may stand on a plate of iron at 
 the bottom, and charcoal, red hot, put in it, and covered 
 with wood ashes night and morning. The charcoal must 
 be replenished, and will give the heat required more or 
 less. 
 
 # . In colouring, great caution is requisite to avoid pernicious 
 ingredients, such as chronate of lead copper, verdigris, roa& 
 
596 
 
 SWJEEV^SATS. 
 
 pink, &c., which are frequently used by pastrycooks.* The 
 following will be found the most innocent colouring prepara¬ 
 tions. 
 
 For colouring Red. 
 
 Take one ounce of cochineal, pound it fine, put a pint of 
 dear wood-ash lees to it, let it boil ten minutes; add by de¬ 
 grees one ounce of cream of tartar, let it boil one minute 
 longer; and add, lastly, a quarter of an ounce of roclie-alum, 
 finely pounded ; let it just boil up, and put through a lawn 
 sieve; if wanted to keep, add a spoonful of spirits of wine, or 
 reduce it by heat, in a dish, to powder again ; when wanted 
 add a little water. 
 
 The lees are made by boiling a pound of wood ashes in a 
 quart of water, and letting it settle to clear. 
 
 For colouring Blue. 
 
 Put a little warm water into a plate, and rub some good 
 indigo on it, till you have gained a proper tint, more or 
 less, according as a deeper or paler colour is desired. 
 
 For colouring Yellow. 
 
 This may ne either made of French berries steeped in 
 water, gamboge, or the heart of the yellow lily, infused in 
 warm water. 
 
 * Especially among those of the lower order, in preparing articles for 
 cheap sale. As a caution to parents against permitting their children to 
 purchase such trash as the common sugar-plum usually sold in the shops, 
 we give the following analysis, made a few years since by an eminent 
 chemist. ' “ One pennyworth of the sugar-plums called Nelson balls, or 
 Waterloo balls, was found to contain sixty grains cf indissoluble matter, 
 tesembling red lead, w'hich, on being fused with a blow-pipe, produced 
 twenty-four grains of lead in a metallic oteta.” 
 
SWEETMEATS. 
 
 597 
 
 For colouring Green. 
 
 Trim the leaves of some spinach, boil them half a minute; 
 then strain the water offj and it will furnish a brilliant 
 colour. 
 
 Caromel Sugar , for sticking baskets or pastry up, and for 
 
 making covers. 
 
 Rub the sides of a caromel-pan round with butter ; put a 
 quart of clarified sugar, boil it ten minutes; add a table-spoon¬ 
 ful of white distilled vinegar, boil it down to caromel; when 
 done, stand the pan within another, with cold water to keep it 
 from colouring. The mould must be oiled well over; when 
 the sugar is a little cool, and runs off the spoon as a thread, 
 draw it over the mould what pattern you please; take care to 
 have a good rim round the bottom of the mould to stand on ; 
 when done, warm the mould a little, and the cover will sHd 
 off; it may be done inside the mould, and ornamented with 
 any dry sweetmeats, comfits, or gum paste flowers. 
 
 Note. —This sugar may be kept in a pan, when done with, 
 and is ready on all occasions, as it will heat again repeatedly, 
 and will serve to stick all kinds of pastry up. 
 
 Lemon Barley Sugar. 
 
 Boil one pint of syrup to a caromel; when done add twenty 
 drops of essence of lemon, and pour it out in lengths on a 
 marble slab, oiled; when nearly cold twist it. 
 
 Note. —Barley-sugar drops are made by dropping it on the 
 slab, and wrapped up in papers with a little sifted sugar. If 
 made in large quantities, it is poured on a slab, made to hold 
 the quantity, and when cold cut in lengths with scissars, and 
 twisted. 
 
 Ginger barley sugar is made the same as this, omitting the 
 lemon, and adding a spoonful of the concentrated essence oi 
 ginger, when nearly boiled 
 
598 
 
 SWEETMEATS. 
 
 Lavender Barley Sugar. 
 
 Boil a pint of syrup to caromel, when nearly done add a 
 tea-spoonful of prepared cochineal, to colour, and twenty drops 
 of oil of lavender; let it boil half a minute in it, pour it in 
 lengths on a marble slab, oiled, and twist it. 
 
 Burnt Almonds. 
 
 Put a pint of syrup in a pan, boiled to a strong blow ; 
 put one pound of almonds in, boil them two or three minutes, 
 and work them about in the pan till the sugar grains, which 
 is, that it turns to sugar again ; put them over the fire for a 
 minute to melt, and burn the sugar a little ; stir the almonds 
 well about, till brown enough; let them get cold, and sift the 
 loose sugar from them; put a pint of syrup in the pan again, 
 and boil to a feather; then add three spoonfuls of prepared cochi¬ 
 neal to the sugar, put the almonds in, and stir till all are covered 
 and begin to dry; put them in a sieve, and separate them 
 
 Cinnamon Burnt Almonds. 
 
 Proceed the same as for burnt almonds, and put three 
 spoonfuls of powdered cinnamon, instead of the cochineal in 
 the last boiling, they will then become brown ; or the cinna¬ 
 mon may be left out, and only covered with the second 
 sugar. 
 
 White sugared Almonds. 
 
 Blanch them, and then manage them in the same way as 
 prawlings, only putting them into the syrup a moment before 
 the sugar changes colour. Keep them well stirred all the 
 time. 
 
 Orange or Lemon Prawlings. 
 
 Cut the peel of four China oranges or lemons in small 
 
SWEETMEATS. 
 
 599 
 
 lengths, the size of pins; boil half a pint of sugar to a blow; 
 put in the peels and boil to a blow again; strain the sugar 
 off, rub them in fine sifted sugar, and dry them in the drying 
 stove for a few hours. 
 
 \ 
 
 Orange-Flower Prawlings. 
 
 Pick half a pint of fresh orange-flowers off the stalks and 
 bads; boil a pint of syrup to a blow; boil the flowers to a 
 blow again in it, strain them off, rub them in fine sifted sugar, 
 and dry in a drying stove till crisp. 
 
 Rock Candy. 
 
 Have some shallow square tins, two inches deep, made to 
 hold a quart of clarified sugar; boil the sugar to a blow; fill 
 the pans with it, and put over it, while hot, picked corn 
 flowers, stocks, or jonqu-illes, to cover; put in a very hot stove, 
 of one hundred and twenty degrees heat; let it stand three 
 days ; when hard at top, break a small hole in the candy, set 
 it to drain one day; break the candy out of the tins; when 
 wanted, place one piece on the other of different colours, 
 sticking it together with a little thick gum-arabic water, and 
 dry them. 
 
 Or it can be made without the flowers, and will be perfectly 
 white. 
 
 Paste Candy. 
 
 Cut apple paste in shapes, dry it very hard, put it in a 
 candy-pan, with a cock to it, and wires to fit the inside ; put 
 a layer of paste on each wire till the pan is full, and press it 
 down at top; boil the syrup to a small blow, and cover it 
 over; put it in the stove, at one hundred and twenty degrees 
 of heat; let it stand two days, draw off the sugar by the 
 eock; add a little more, to it, and boil it to the same degree; 
 let it stand the same time; repeat this three times, drain it 
 very dry, and take it out of the pan. 
 
600 
 
 SWEETMEATS. 
 
 Note .—In this way may be candied any hard substance 
 perfectly dry, as gum paste, dried sweetmeats, &c. Care 
 must be taken to keep it constantly hot in the stove. 
 
 Candy for cast Figures. 
 
 Boil two quarts of clarified sugar to a strong blow, grain 
 it (which is turning it white) by rubbing it against the sides 
 of the pan ; when white and the thickness of cream, pout it 
 in leaden moulds, well oiled, in a liquid state ; put them in 
 the stove till perfectly dry. 
 
 Rock Sugar. 
 
 Take a quart of clarified sugar, boil dowu to a crack; 
 make an iceing of one white of egg, in sifted sugar; when 
 the sugar is boiled, stir in a spoonful of iceing very quick in 
 it; when it rises turn it on a sieve, well sugared ; cover it 
 with the pan till cold. 
 
 If you want it coloured, put the colour in while the sugar 
 is boiling, before the iceing is added ; cochineal, saffron, or 
 Prussian blue, ground fine in water; a spoonful is sufficient. 
 
 Nogar. 
 
 Take half a pound of pounded sugar; put it in a stew-pan 
 over a gentle fire without water; stir it, and when a light 
 brown, add as many cut slices of dry almonds as will make it 
 in a thick paste ; turn it out in a mould, or on a marble slab, 
 well oiled, and flatten with a rolling-pin, and cut in square 
 pieces. 
 
 If the almonds are browned a little in the oven, before 
 putting in the sugar, the nogar will be the better. 
 
 Ginger Drops. 
 
 Beat in a marble mortar, an ounce of candied orange-peel, 
 with some lump sugar, and when it is smooth like paste, add 
 half a pound more of the same kind of sugar, and half an 
 ounce of powdered ginger. Then dissolve the sugar in a 
 little water, boif the whole to a candy, and drop it off from 
 
&WEETMEAT8. 
 
 COJ 
 
 the point of a knife on wilting paper. When c d, put them 
 into loxes. 
 
 Peppermint D r ops. 
 
 These are made by finely sifting some powdered loaf sugai 
 into just lemon-juice enough to make it properly thick, and 
 then drying it over the fire for a few minutes, stirring in 
 about fifteen drops of oil of peppermint to each ounce of 
 sugar. Some, instead of lemon-juice, mix the sugar and oil 
 of peppermint with the whites of eggs, beating the whole to¬ 
 gether, and dropping it on white paper, after which, drying 
 them gradually before the fire« 
 
 Lemon Drops. 
 
 Grate three lemons with a piece of double-refined sugar, 
 then scrape it off upon a plate, and add half a tea-spoonful of 
 flour; mix the whole well, and beat it to a paste with the 
 white of an egg. Drop it upon white paper, and having 
 laid it on a tin plate, put it into a moderate oven. 
 
 Batafa Drops. 
 
 Blanch and beat in a mortar four ounces of bitter and half 
 as many sweet almonds, with a little pounded sugar, sifted, 
 with some more sugar, and the whites of two eggs; make a 
 paste, of which put some little balls in white paper, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. 
 
 Caraway Comfits. 
 
 Boil some syrup in a saucepan for about a quarter of an 
 hour, then mix with it the finest white starch, just dissolved 
 in cold water. Meanwhile, dissolve some gum-arabic in 
 warm water in another saucepan. Then have ready a pre¬ 
 serving pan with handles, let it swing over a charcoal fire, and 
 when the bottom is warm, put in the caraways, to which add 
 a ladleful of gum-water, and stir the whole with the hand till 
 a 26 4 h 
 
602 
 
 COOKERY FOR INFANTS AND THE SICK 
 
 they feel dry. Then add a ladleful of the starch syrup, and 
 stir that in the same manner till dry. Continue this process 
 according to the size, quantity, and goodness of the comfits. 
 After seven or eight coatings and dryings, they should be set 
 in the stove, and so on repeatedly till they are of a proper 
 size and colour. Cardamom comfits, or sugar plums, are done 
 in the same way. Scotch comfits should have a very thick 
 coating, with a syrup, in which orange-flower or rose-water is 
 introduced. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 COOKERY FOR INFANTS AND THE SICK. 
 
 This department comprehends various preparations oc 
 grain—as gruel, barley-water, &c.—of milk—as rice-milk, 
 butter-milk, &c.—of eggs—-jellies, and broths of different 
 kinds. Ample directions both for broths and the richer 
 animal jellies have been given under their respective heads. 
 It is therefore unnecessary here to repeat them. 
 
 WATER GRUELS. &c. 
 
 Gruel of Grits or Grotts 
 
 'The host flavoured and most nourishing gruel is prepared 
 from oats cleared from the hulls, and slightly bruised; these 
 
WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 603 
 
 in different parts of the country, are called grits or grotts. 
 The saucepan used for this purpose should be of block-tin, 
 and kept particularly nice and clean. Half a pint of grits 
 will make two quarts of gruel, and after being strained off, 
 the grits may be boiled again, and will make one quart more. 
 Gruel will require frequent stirring to prevent its burning to 
 the bottom of the saucepan; the first boiling will require 
 about three quarters of an hour, the second rather longer. 
 When strained off, let it be set by in a clean vessel, and in a 
 cool place. In cold weather, gruel should be made fresh 
 every other day, and in warm weather, daily. Some persons 
 like a bit of butter and salt, others a little sugar and nutmeg: 
 but for sick people or lying-in-women the more simple the 
 better. When made very thick, and reduced with milk, 
 this gruel forms a good milk porridge; or thinned and en¬ 
 riched with wine, spirits, sugar, and spices, is called caudle— 
 but for these farther directions will be given. 
 
 A very good SuDstdute for the whole or cracked grits is 
 now much in use, called prepared grits, by Matthew Robin¬ 
 son. It is certainly more economical than the old prepara¬ 
 tions, and is got ready in much less time; but for flavour and 
 nutriment the old grits stand unrivalled. 
 
 Gatmeal Gruel. 
 
 Stir till very smooth, one large spoonful of oatmeal with 
 two of cold water, and pour it into a pint of w'ater boiling on 
 the fire; stir it well, and boil it quickly, but be careful that 
 it does not boil over. When it has boiled ten minutes or a 
 quarter of an hour strain it off. 
 
 Milk Porridge , 
 
 In the use of milk, especially for invalids or infants, two 
 things demand attention.—First, that the xr.ilk be fresh and 
 sweet; indeed a smaller quantity of new milk, diluted with 
 water, is always to be preferred before a larger quantity of 
 that which has been skimmed. Second, that it is by all 
 
GOi WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 means desirable to avoid boiling the milk. 1 be other ingre¬ 
 dients should be well boiled, and of sufficient thickness to 
 admit the milk being stirred in, to cool and to thin it. 
 Either grits or oatmeal gruel will answer the purpose, to which 
 has been allowed double the usual proportion of thickening, 
 and in which a stick of cinnamon has been boiled; when 
 strained off, add an equal quantity of new milk, a little sugar 
 and nutmeg, and if approved, a morsel of fresh butter. 
 Some people prefer salt rather than sugar and spice. 
 
 A plainer sort of Milk Porridge may be made in the 
 following manner. 
 
 In a steamer saucepan, or brass skillet, have one pint of 
 water perfectly boiling, two spoonfuls of oatmeal, gradually 
 wetted with milk, till it has taken up a quart, and is perfectly 
 smooth; then stir it briskly into the boiling water, and let it 
 boil a few minutes till quite thickened, stirring it all the 
 time; sweeten and flavour with allspice or nutmeg, as 
 approved. 
 
 Caudle 
 
 Was formerly freely administered to lying-in-women, and 
 from its heating tendency was highly injurious both to them 
 and. their infants. It is now principally used to treat the 
 friends and visitors, while the inmates of the lying-in-room 
 are confined to a diet more simple and rational. Even as an 
 article of luxury it has much gone out of fashion, and has 
 given place to chocolate and similar morning refieshments# 
 As it is, however, still retained in some old fashioned circles, 
 it may be necessary to furnish directions for making it. 
 
 ^ White Caudle. 
 
 y yty" 
 
 Having prepared thick gruel, either of grits or oatmeal, 
 for every cup of caudle required allow three table-spoonfuls of the 
 best brandy, or two of brandy ai.d two of mountain wine, a 
 
 * 
 
WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 605 
 
 spoonful of fine moist sugar, and a little nutmeg. These 
 should be put in a jug large enough to contain the whole, the 
 gruel poured to them boiling hot, and well stirred up. Then 
 pour it into the cups and serve witli rusks, biscuits, or dry 
 toast. 
 
 Another way.—Boil up half a piiTt of fine gruel, with a 
 bit of butter the size of a large nutmeg, a large spoonful of 
 brandy, the same of white wine, one of capillaire, a bit of 
 lemon-peel, and nutmeg. 
 
 Cold Caudle . * 
 
 Boil a quart of spring water; when cold, add the yelk of 
 an egg, the juice of a small lemon, six spoonfuls of sweet 
 wine, sugar to your taste, and syrup of lemons, one ounce 
 
 Beer , or Broun Caudle. 
 
 If made of grits the gruel should be very thick, enough so 
 to admit of nearly an equal quantity of good clear mild beer, 
 which should be stirred in it, over the fire, with a small pinch 
 of allspice, finely ground. If oatmeal be used, it may be 
 mixed with beer, and stirred into an equal quantity of boiling 
 water, with allspice as above. When sufficiently boiled, strain 
 off, and in either case, to a quart of gruel add a large 
 table-spoonful of moist sugar, a grate of nutmeg, and two 
 glasses of gin, or rather more than one of brandy. 
 
 Bice Gruel. 
 
 Mix a large table-spoonful of ground rice, with coldwatei, 
 to a stiff paste, then stir it into the remainder of a pint of 
 boiling water, and boil it a quarter of an hour with a stick of 
 cinnamon, and a little dried orange-peel; strain it off, sweeten 
 with loaf sugar, and add half a glass or more of brandy. This 
 is commonly used when the boweis are in a very relaxed state, 
 and it is desired to check that tendency. Much caution. 
 
COG 
 
 WATEIl GRUELS, &C. 
 
 however, should be observed, and it is seldom safe to ven¬ 
 ture on the use of any thing of a heating and astringent na¬ 
 ture, without proper medical advice. 
 
 Another way.—Soak some Carolina rice in water an 
 hour, strain it, and put two spoonfuls of the rice into a pint 
 and a quarter of milk; simmer till it will pulp through a 
 sieve, then put the pulp and milk into the saucepan, with a 
 bruised clove and a bit of white sugar. Simmer ten minutes * 
 if too thick, add a spoonful or two of milk : and serve with 
 thin toast. 
 
 Flour Caudle. 
 
 Set over a very clear fire, half a pint of new milk, with a 
 bit of cinnamon, and about six good sized lumps of sugar ; 
 rub very smooth two dessert-spoonfuls of the best flour, add¬ 
 ing to it by degrees half a pint of water; the moment the 
 milk boils, stir into it the flour and water, and let it simmei 
 gently over a very clear slow Are for twenty minutes, carefully 
 stirring it, or it will be apt to burn. This is a nourishing 
 food, very good for weak bowels, and for infants; but if 
 it is intended for an infant, the cinnamon should in general 
 be omitted. 
 
 Barley Gruel. 
 
 Wash four ounces of pearl bailey; boil it in two quarts 
 of water, with a stick of cinnamon, till it is reduced to one 
 quart; strain, and then return it into the saucepan, with a 
 pint of port wine and^ome loaf sugar, and stir it over the 
 fire two or three minutes. This is a good method of admi- 
 nistering port wine when it is ordered for supporting the 
 strength under alarming and exhausting disorders. It may 
 be re-warmed as wanted. Here observe, when wine or other 
 cordials are ordered, those who nurse the sick person should 
 ask for exact directions as to the quantity to be given, and 
 act accordingly. A little may be necessary when more 
 
'WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 607 
 
 <rould be injurious. On the other hand, do not be afraid to 
 give what a skilful medical man directs, though the quantity 
 to you may seem excessive; perhaps it is the only chance or 
 saving life. Doctors are not apt to recommend the free use 
 of powerful cordials, unless they see an urgem necessitv for 
 so doing. 
 
 Indian Arrow-root. 
 
 This is a very valuable food both for infants and sick per¬ 
 sons ; but great care should be taken to obtain it genuine, as a 
 vast deal that is sold in the shops as arrow-root is either po- 
 tatoe or ivory dust, or perhaps some article less salutary than 
 either. Persons accustomed to use genuine arrow-root can¬ 
 not easily be deceived, hut those less experienced will do 
 well to apply for it to some respectable druggist on whom they 
 can rely, and to give the best price. Arrow-root may be 
 made either with milk or with wine and water; a large dessert¬ 
 spoonful makes half a pint. It must be rubbed smooth with 
 a very small quantity of milk, or water, gradually increased to 
 about two spoonfuls, and then stirred into the remainder while 
 boiling; when it boils, a minute or two will do it. If made 
 with milk, it may be flavoured with either nutmeo- or cinna- 
 mon, and sweetened with moist or loaf sugar according 
 to the state of the bowels ; if confined, moist sugar, if relaxed, 
 loaf sugar is to be preferred. If arrow-root is to be made 
 with wine, a glass of white wine, or a large spoonful of brandy, 
 is the quantity for half a pint. The wine, water, and sugai 
 may be boiled together, and the arrow-root moistened as 
 above with cold water. 
 
 Panada. 
 
 Set on the fire a glass of white wine, with an equal quan¬ 
 tity of water, three or four lumps of sugar, and a scrape of 
 nutmeg and lemon-peel; meanwhile grate a large table-spoon¬ 
 ful of crumbs of bread, and the moment the liquor boils, put 
 
608 
 
 WATER GRUKLS, &C. 
 
 the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it can. When it 
 appears well mixed and thickened, take it oft'. 
 
 Or if wine be not proper, boil only water, lemon-peel, and 
 sugar; add the crumbs of bread, and when nearly done, 
 squeeze in the juice of an orange ; but let it all boil, for if 
 any thing is added after it is taken oif the fire, the panada be¬ 
 comes broken and watery 
 
 Meat Panada. 
 
 Sometimes it is requisite to give animal nutriment in a 
 more solid form than that of broth or jelly, when the person 
 has not an appetite for meat; when that is the case, it may be 
 managed in the following manner:—Take the white meat of 
 chicken, or rabbit, partly, but not thoroughly boiled, perfectly 
 clear it from skin, shred it as fine a-s powder, or if you have 
 a marble mortar, beat it to a paste with a little of the liquor it 
 was boiled in ; put a dust of salt and nutmeg, and a little 
 scrape of lemon-peel, simmer it gently a few minutes, with as 
 much of the liquor as will bring it to the thickness of gruel, 
 lloast veal, mutton, or beef, may be shred and warmed in the 
 same manner, with a little of the gravy from the dish, pro¬ 
 vided there be no butter in it; but the white meats are most 
 easily shred. Or it is a very good way, when a sick person 
 cannot take solid meat, and yet wants nourishment, to lay 
 two or three sippets of toasted bread in the dish with a roast 
 joint of meat, and, as the gravy runs, to let it drip on them till 
 thoroughly moistened. 
 
 Saqo. 
 
 The berries should be soaked an hour in cold water, then 
 pour that off*, and add, to a large table-spoonful of sago, a 
 quart of water; lot it simmer gently a long time, till the ber¬ 
 ries are quite tender, and it has become thick ; if wine is to 
 be added, put the less water; when it has boiled away to a 
 pint, add two glasses of white wine, and a little lemon-peel, cr 
 nutmeg and sugar. Boil all un together. 
 
WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 609 
 
 Another way.—Soak the berries, changing the water. 
 Simmer with a bit of lemon-peel till the berries look trans¬ 
 parent. When nearly done, add spices, such as nutmeg, 
 mace, and cloves, to taste, with wine and sugar. Give the 
 whole a boil up before dishing it. 
 
 Or boil the same quantity of sago very slowly in a quart of 
 new milk, till reduced to about a pint, and sweeten. A per¬ 
 son who is weak, should stir a spoonful or more of this into 
 his tea or coffee, as milk. 
 
 Tapioca. 
 
 Wash the tapioca in three or four waters: having done 
 this, steep it five hours in the water in which it is to be 
 boiled. Simmer it till quite clear, and add lemon-juice, wine, 
 sugar, or other flavouring ingredients to taste. The quantity 
 required of either sago or tapioca is a large table-spoonful to 
 a quart, which should be reduced at least one half in 
 boiling. 
 
 Rice Milk. 
 
 After well washing the rice, set it over the fire with a 
 small quantity of water ; let it simmer till the rice has swollen 
 and absorbed the water, then gradually stir to it new milk, 
 and slowly simmer, stirring it constantly till it is of a proper 
 consistence; a bit of cinnamon may be used, if approved, or 
 Jemon-peel, and when done, sweetened with loaf sugar. 
 Some people add currants and grated nutmeg, and some make 
 the rice milk thin at first, and afterwards thicken it with 
 beaten egg and flour; but this is not so wholesome. 
 
 Ground Rice Milk. 
 
 In a steam saucepan, heat a pint of new milk, which may 
 be flavoured at pleasure with cinnamon or laurel leaves; mix 
 with two or three spoonfuls of cold milk a large spoonful of 
 ground rice; when smooth, stir it into the other, and let the 
 b 26 4 i 
 
6 LI* 
 
 WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 whole simmer gently till of a proper consistence; sweated to 
 taste. 
 
 Millet Milk. 
 
 Wash three spoonfuls of millet-seed in cold water. 
 Simmer in a quart of new milk till moderately thick. 
 
 Common Barley Water. 
 
 In three pints of water, simmer a large handful of common 
 barley, till of a thickness proper for use. For all the pur¬ 
 poses for which pearl barley is used, the common barley is 
 equally valuable, and much less expensive. 
 
 Pearl Barley Water. 
 
 Set on two ounces of pearl barley in a small quantity of 
 cold water; when warm, pour off the wat«r and put a quart 
 of fresh ; let it simmer till of a proper thickness, then strain 
 off. The barley will boil up again in a smaller quantity of 
 water, or it will do well to put in both. 
 
 Barley-water may be flavoured in various ways. Lemon- 
 juice and peel, and sugar are most commonly used. In com¬ 
 plaints of the chest, or when the bowels are confined, raisins, 
 figs, liquorice roots, and honey are recommended, but they 
 are apt to cloy the stomach. In sore throats, and other 
 feverish complaints, nitre is given with great advantage. 
 Rub a drachm of powdered nitre with a little powdered 
 sugar or honey, and then mix it gradually with the boiling 
 barley-water. In case of stranguary or difficulty of making 
 water, gum-arabic should be dissolved in barley-water. Some 
 people like barley-water acidulated with currant jelly, rasp¬ 
 berry vinegar, or capillaire. 
 
 Bran Tea , 
 
 Which is very useful in colds and coughs, as tending to 
 loosen phlegms and promote perspiration, is made by boilings 
 large handful of bran in water till it thickens, then straining it 
 
WATER GRUELS, &0 
 
 611 
 
 off, and sweetening or flavouring in the same manner as barley- 
 water ; any of the ingredients above recommended mav, with 
 equal propriety, be combined as with barley-water, as the case 
 may require. 
 
 Linseed 'Lea. 
 
 Boil two table-spoonfuls of the seeds in three pints of 
 water till reduced to a quart; then strain it off; it may be 
 sweetened with Spanish liquorice, or if preferred, sweetened 
 with honey, and made sharp with lemon-juice or vinegar. 
 
 Emollient Decoction. 
 
 Liquorice roots and marsh mallow roots, of each two 
 ounces, boil in three pints of water till reduced to a quart; 
 strain it, and let it stand to settle; then pour it off clear from 
 the giounds. Ihese two last are good drinks in coughs and 
 complaints of the lungs. A teacupful may be taken three or 
 four times a day. 
 
 Mucilage of Gum-arabic. 
 
 One ounce of gum-arabic in powder, mix well with two 
 table-spoonfuls of honey; shave a little rind of lemon; clear 
 ofl the white pith, and cut the lemon in slices into a jug, then 
 stii on it, by degrees, a pint and a half of boiling water. 
 This is particularly good in any complaint that affects the 
 chest, as cough, consumption, measles, &c. 
 
 Drinks for Persons in Fevers .— Toast and Water. 
 
 Toast slowly a piece of bread till very brown and hard, but 
 do not suffer it to catch fire, or become at all black; plunge it 
 in a jug of cold water (not pour the water over the toast) and 
 cover it up. 
 
 Apple Water. 
 
 Cut two large apples in slices, and pour a quart of boiliim 
 water over them ; in two or three hours, strain and sweeten 
 
613 
 
 WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 to taste; or, boil the apples in three pints of water till reduced 
 to a quart. 
 
 Currant Drink. 
 
 To a pint of fresh-gathered currants (stripped) put a pint 
 of water; let them boil together ten minutes or a quarter of 
 an hour, then strain, and sweeten to taste; a few raspberries 
 added give a pleasant flavour. The same may be produced 
 in winter, by simmering two table-spoonfuls of currant jelly in 
 half a pint of water. 
 
 Orange or Lemon Drink 
 
 Squeeze the juice of four oranges or lemons; rince the 
 pulp and rind in half a pint of boiling water ; simmer another 
 half pint of water with eight or ten lumps of sugar till tho¬ 
 roughly dissolved and mixed; when all are cold, mix them 
 well together, and strain through muslin or flannel. 
 
 Imperial Drink. 
 
 Cream of tartar and loaf sugar, of each half an ounce ; the 
 outer rind of lemon, either fresh or dried ; pour over a ouart 
 of boiling water. When cold strain it off. 
 
 Soda Water. 
 
 Dissolve in a large glass containing a wine glass full of 
 water, a small tea-spoonful of carbonate of soda; squeeze into 
 it the juice of lemon, or Seville orange, and drink it off while 
 it hisses; if fresh fruit cannot be had, citric, or tartaric acid 
 (which may be had at the druggists) will answer the purpose. 
 Dissolve in another glass half a tea-spoonful of either of these 
 acids, pour it into the soda, and drink it off instantly. It 
 may be taken every three or fo«r hours while feverish thirst 
 continues. It is a very propel drink in the measles ; but 
 the quantity must be reduced according to the age of th« 
 child. 
 
WATER GRUELS, Sir. 
 
 618 
 
 Teas of various Sorts. 
 
 Tea made of balm, mint, sage, marigolds, or cowslips, is 
 often found refreshing. Balm tea is most cooling ; mint t 1 e 
 most comforting to the bowels ; sage,* or marigold, most re¬ 
 viving; and cowslip tea has rather a composing tendency. I o 
 have them nice, they should be made fresh and fresh. 
 
 Camomile Tea 
 
 Is often rendered nauseous by suffering it to remain far too 
 long on the flowers; after ten minutes, or even less, no far¬ 
 ther good properties are extracted from the flowers, only a 
 nauseous bitter. Half a handful of flowers will make a quart 
 of tea sufficiently strong for any purpose. If a person who 
 takes camomile tea to strengthen the stomach, finds a low¬ 
 ness and sinking, six or eight cloves may be added. In this 
 case it should be drank cold. 
 
 Whey. 
 
 Cheese whey is a very wholesome drink ; so also is butter¬ 
 milk, especially in the spring time when the cows have good 
 fresh herbage. 
 
 White wine Whey. 
 
 Put half a pint of new milk on the fire; the moment it 
 boils, povr into it as much white wine as will turn it; cow¬ 
 slip wine is the best if it can be had ; let it boil up, then 
 stand the saucepan aside till the curd settles, and do not stir 
 it; then pour off the whey, and add to it half a pint of boiling 
 water, and sweeten with loaf sugar. If skim milk is used, no 
 water need be added, but the wine should not exceed a wine¬ 
 glass full. 
 
 * Sage tea.—A gentleman farmer wno lived to upwards of ninety years 
 of age in uninterrupted liealth, never through his whole life drank any 
 other tea ttan that of sage. 
 
WAT1IH (JIOJELS, &C. 
 
 614 
 
 Whey made with vinegar, orange, lemon, apple, or honey, 
 answers every purpose of producing perspiration, and is not 
 heating like that which is made of wine. There are two 
 ways of making it; the second is preferable. 1. Slice an 
 orange, lemon, or apple into a pint of milk and water, and 
 boil till it is clear; then sweeten and strain it. Or, 2. Turn 
 half a pint (or rather less) of boiling milk, with as much vine¬ 
 gar, orange, or leinon-juice, as will make it quite clear; then 
 mix with it as much boiling water as will bring it to a plea¬ 
 sant sharp acid taste, and add a lump or two of sugar. 
 
 Honey , or Treacle Posset. 
 
 Into half a pint of boiling milk, or milk and water, stir a 
 large table-spoonful of honey, or treacle; let it boil up quickly, 
 then stand it aside for the curd to settle, and when it has 
 done so, strain it off. 
 
 Mustard Whey. 
 
 To a pint of boiling milk, add an ounce and a half ox 
 bruised mustard seed ; boil it till the curd completely sepa¬ 
 rates; then strain it off to a pint of boiling water, sweeten, 
 and boil it up once. This is particularly good for old people 
 labouring under cold, rheumatism, palsy, or dropsy. It is 
 also sometimes recommended in low fevers. The dose is a 
 tearupful four or five times a day. 
 
 Sack Posset. 
 
 Beat up twelve eggs, and strain them, then put half a 
 pound of lump sugar into a pint of white wine, and mix the 
 same with the egg. Set the whole over a chafing dish, and 
 keep it stirred till scalding hot. In the mean time, grate 
 some nutmeg in a quart of milk, and heat it, then pour it 
 over the egg and wine, holding your hand high while doing 
 it, and stirring it all the while. Then take it off*, set it be¬ 
 fore the fire half an hour, and it will be ready. 
 
WATER GRUELS, &C. 
 
 615 
 
 Another method is as follows :—Take a quart of new milk, 
 four Naples’ biscuits, crumble them, and when the milk boils, 
 throw them in. Give it another boil, then take it off, grate 
 therein some nutmeg, and sweeten it to your taste, add 
 ban a puit of sherry, stirring it all the time, and serve it 
 up. 
 
 Another Wine Posset. 
 
 Take a quart of new milk, and the crumb of a penny loaf, 
 boil the whole till the bread is soft, then take it off, grate 
 therein half a nutmeg, and some sugar, put it into a basin, 
 with a pint of Lisbon wine, very gradually, or it will make 
 the curd hard and tough. Serve it with toast. 
 
 An Ale Posset. 
 
 Put a little bread into a pint of milk, set it over the fire, 
 and when it boils, pour thereto a pint of strong ale, with nut¬ 
 meg and sugar. Let it stand a few minutes to clear, and the 
 curd will float on the surface 
 
 Another way.—Boil a pint of new milk with a slice of 
 bread, sweeten and season a bottle of mild ale in a China basin 
 or dish, and pour the boiling milk over it. When the head 
 rises serve it. 
 
 A Brandy Posset. 
 
 Boil a quart of cream, with a stick of cinnamon in it, over 
 a slow fire, and take it off to cool. Beat up the yolks of six 
 eggs, mix the same with the cream, add some nutmeg and 
 sugar to your taste, set it over a slow fire, and stir it all one 
 way. When it appears like a fine custard, take it off, and 
 pour it into a basin, with a glass of brandy; stir it gently, 
 and serve it up. 
 
 Ass's Milk 
 
 I far preferable to any substitute that can be devised. It 
 sho uld be drank warm, as milked, and for that purpose should 
 
WATER GRUELS, See. 
 
 bL6 
 
 be milked into a glass, placed in a vessel of boiling water. 
 The fixed air contained in ass’s milk sometimes occasions 
 pain in the stomach, to prevent which it is usual to add *o it 
 a tea-spoonful of rum, but this should never be done till the 
 instant of swallowing it. On account of the difficulty and 
 expense of procuring ass’s milk, several substitutes have been 
 devised, of which the following are perhaps the best: 
 
 Artificial Ass’s Milk. 
 
 Boil a quart of water, as much new milk, an ounce of 
 white sugarcandy, half that quantity of eringo root, and as 
 much conserve of roses, till half reduced. This is an astrin¬ 
 gent, and therefore the doses must be proportioned to the 
 effect. 
 
 Another way.——Mix two spoonfuls of boiling water, the 
 same of milk, and an egg well beaten; sweeten with pounded 
 white sugarcandy. Or, boil two ounces of hartshorn shav¬ 
 ings, as much pearl-barley, and the same of candied eringo 
 root, with twelve bruised snails, in two quarts of water, till 
 reduced one half. Mix this with an equal quantity of new 
 milk, when taken, twice a day. 
 
 Mock Ass’s Milk. 
 
 Take two quarts of snails, bruise them well, put them 
 into four quarts of water and boil them half an hour, strain it 
 and add to the liquor two ounces of hartshorn shavings, two 
 ounces of eringo root, four ounces of isinglass, and the rinds 
 of two Seville oranges. Boil the whole till reduced to two 
 quarts, strain it and add the juice of two oranges, two ounces 
 of white sugarcandy, and one quart of mountain wine. Take 
 a quarter of a pint night and morning, and at other times, if 
 low and out of spirits. 
 
 Dr. Boerhaave’s Buttermilk. 
 
 Milk a cow into a small churn, and when it has stood 
 about ten minutes, begin churning, continuing to do so lili 
 
JELLIES, 
 
 ei" 
 
 the flakes of butter swim about pietty much, ai.d the dis¬ 
 charged milk appears thin and blue. Strain this through a 
 jieve, and drink of it frequently. It is good for consumptive 
 cases, but in order to its producing decidedly good effects, 
 should be the only drink of the patient, and the food to be 
 taken with it ought to be biscuits, rusks, and fruits, either 
 ripe or dried. 
 
 A strengthening Drink for Children. 
 
 Two ounces of pearl-barley, two ounces of hartshorn 
 shavings, half an ounce of candied eringo root, boiled in a 
 quart of spring water till reduced to a pint. Strain it and 
 boil the dregs again in half the quantity. It may be given 
 with milk and sugar as tea, or at any time of the day. 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 Calves' Feet Jelly. 
 
 To two feet, put two quarts of water; boil till reduced to one 
 quart; add the whites of seven eggs, the juice of five lemons, 
 with half the peels, a little saffron, half an ounce of isinglass, 
 all the egg-shell, three quarters of a pound of lump sugar, 
 half a pint of white wine, and a glassful of brandy. Be care¬ 
 ful to put an egg-shell at the bottom of the jelly bag. 
 
 Another way.—It is best to make the plain jelly the dav 
 before the dish is wanted. Clean and slit four calves’ feet 
 and boil them slowly in five quarts of water till rather mere 
 than the half is wasted. Skim the stock; strain off the fi- 
 quov, and when cold and firm remove the top fat and the se¬ 
 diment. Put this jelly into a nice preserving pan, with 
 « 26 4 k 
 
61S 
 
 JELLIES 
 
 white sugar to taste, the thin peel of two lemons, and the 
 juice of from four to six ; a half bottle of Madeira or Sherry, 
 the whites of six eggs well whisked, and the shells crushed 
 and thrown into the pan. Stir this well together, and set 
 the pan on the fire, taking care not to agitate the jelly after 
 it begins to heat. Let it boil slowly for from twelve to 
 fifteen minutes, then throw in a little cold water, and let it 
 boil another five minutes. Set the pan, with a cloth thrown 
 over it, to settle for half an hour, pour the jelly into a flannel 
 jelly bag, and strain till it be perfectly pellucid—for the 
 brightness of jellies is one of their main excellencies. 
 
 Another way.—Take four calves’ feet and boil them till 
 quite tender. When done, take great care to get the fat 
 off the liquor; put it over the fire and put a bottle of white 
 wine to it, and six lemons, and sugar to your taste, then take 
 the whites of eight eggs and whisk up to a froth, then boil it, 
 and when boiled a few minutes, put the cover on it, let it 
 stand to break, then run it through the bag till clear. 
 
 Note .—If you do not want so much take half the given 
 portion to two feet. 
 
 Punch Jelly in Moulds. 
 
 Add half a tea-cupful of brandy, and the same of rum, 
 to a pint and a half of calves’ feet jelly, properly clarified ana 
 sweetened. Put it in moulds and turn out. 
 
 Shank Broth , or Jelly , cheap and very nourishing. 
 
 Soak twelve mutton shanks four hours, then brush and 
 scour them very clean ; put them into a saucepan, with one 
 pound of lean beef, a crust of bread made very brown by 
 toasting, and (if approved) an onion, or any kind of herb for 
 flavour; add four quarts of water, and let it simmer as gently 
 as possible for five hours, then strain it off. It will be a 
 stiff jelly, and keep good several days. 
 
JELLIES. 
 
 619 
 
 Calves' Feet Broth.* 
 
 Roil two feet in three quarts of water till reduced one 
 half, strain it and set it by; when cold, take off the fat, and 
 when it is to be used, put a large tea-cupful of the jelly into 
 a saucepan, with half a glass of mountain, raisin, or cowslip 
 wine, and a little nutmeg and sugar; when it nearly boils, 
 have ready the yelk of an egg finely beaten; stir to it by 
 degrees a little of the jelly, then stir it all together, but do 
 not let it boil. This is less troublesome and expensive than 
 calves’ feet jelly, and quite as nourishing. 
 
 Gloucester Jelly. 
 
 Rice, sago, pearl-barley, eringo root, and hartshorn shav¬ 
 ings, of each one ounce; simmer in three pints of water till 
 reduced to one, then strain it; when cold it will be a stiff 
 jelly, a spoonful or more of which may be given dissolved in 
 tea, milk, or broth ; or if wine be allowed, warm a table¬ 
 spoonful or two of the jelly with a lump of sugar, and add to 
 it a table-spoonful of wine. 
 
 White Calves' Feet Jelly . 
 
 Bake two calves’ feet, with a quart of new milk and a quart 
 of water, in a jar closely covered, three hours and a half j 
 when cold remove the fat; it may be flavoured with lemon- 
 peel or cinnamon ; and if it is to be eaten cold, may be sweet¬ 
 ened with loaf sugar when it comes out of the oven; but if it 
 is to be re-warmed when eaten, it had better be sweetened at 
 the time. Sheep s trotters may be done m the same way. 
 
 * It will be observed that in this and several other articles of cookery 
 for the sick, great regard is had to economy, in the hope that benevolen 
 persons may adopt them for the benefit of their poor and afflicted neigh* 
 boars. Il this way much good may be done at small expense. 
 
020 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 Isinglass Jelly. 
 
 To keep in the house, and stir in broth, tea, &c, a3 G»ot> 
 cester jelly. Boil one ounce of isinglass shavings and a 
 brown crust of bread in a quart of water, till reduced to a 
 pint; then strain it through muslin and set it by. 
 
 Isinglass with Milk. 
 
 Boil one ounce of isinglass and a bit of cinnamon in half 
 a pint of water nearly half an hour; then mix to it a pint of 
 new milk and some loaf sugar; let it boil up once, and strain 
 it off. It may be eaten either warm or cold. 
 
 To make Hartshorn Jelly. (A choice Recipe.) 
 
 Take six ounces of right real hartshorn, and boil it in six 
 quarts of spring water till it cometh to one quart, then strain 
 it off, and put the clear of the jelly into a skillet, leaving 
 back the settlings. If it be not a jelly it is not the right harts¬ 
 horn. Then add to it three quarters of a pound of double- 
 refined sugar, a quarter of a pint of good Sherry, or other 
 white wine, and the juice of three or four lemons. When 
 it boils up, clarify it with the whites of two eggs beaten, then 
 strain it through a swanskin bag into jelly glasses. If desired, 
 it may be coloured with cochineal. 
 
 Another way.—To two ounces of hartshorn shavings, 
 and three quarters of an ounce of isinglass, put three pints 
 of water and boil it to a quart, then strain it, and put to it 
 three quarters of a pint of good wine, the juice of two large 
 lemons, the whites of five eggs ; sweeten it to yoiir taste and 
 let it boil a quarter of an hour; they must not be mixed very 
 hot. 
 
 Strengthening Jelly. 
 
 One calf’s foot cleaned and cut in pieces, one ounce of 
 hartshorn shavings, half an ounce of isinglass, three pints of 
 new milk, put in a pan and bake in a slow oven till half b 
 
JELLIES. 
 
 021 
 
 consumed, strain it, and wher xdd take off the fat. Take 
 a coffee-cupful warm the first thing in the morning, and last 
 at night, 
 
 Jer mange. 
 
 Two ounces of isinglass, steep in one pint of water for an 
 hour, then add a bare pint of white wine, the juice of three 
 oranges or lemons, the thin rind of one, the yelks of eight 
 eggs. Sweeten to taste, boil all together and strain into a 
 mould. 
 
 To make Orange Jelly. 
 
 Boil two ounces of isinglass with some sugar in a quart 
 of water till it is quite melted, then strain it, and when it is 
 almost cold, put about two lemons, two China oranges, and 
 one Seville to it. It is best to soak the isinglass in the 
 water some hours before, if convenient. 
 
 Eringo Root Jelly. 
 
 Take candied eringo root, ising ass, pearl-barley, and 
 hartshorn shavings, each two ounces; conserve of roses one 
 ounce; boil these ingredients in two quarts of water, till re¬ 
 duced to one quart; and then strain it through a sieve. 
 When wanted, take a tea-cupful of this jelly warmed, and 
 mix it with the same quantity of new milk or wine. 
 
 Sago Jelly. 
 
 Take two ounces of pearl-barley, two ounces of rice, two 
 ounces of hartshorn shavings, two ounces of tapioca, four 
 ounces of sago, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, and four 
 quarts of water; boil gently three hours; strain and rub it 
 through a sieve ; when used, take as much as is wanted ; boil 
 it up with the same quantity of milk and wine, and sweeten to 
 taste. 
 
 Note .—These two jellies are particularly recommended for 
 a weak digestion. 
 
022 
 
 SYRUPS, CONSERVIS, AND CANDIES. 
 
 Jelly of Ivory Du at. 
 
 This article may be obtained at the ivory turners at about 
 eightpence per pound, and by long boiling furnishes a very good 
 and nourishing jelly, equal to that of isinglass. It should at 
 first be set on with a small quantity of water; when warm, 
 pour it off, and put fresh water in the proportion of two 
 quarts to a quarter of a pound of dust, let it simmer slowly 
 for several hours without stirring, until it has reduced half, 
 and all the dust is perfectly settled at bottom, and the liquor 
 at top has become like a clear jelly; it must then be poured 
 off very steadily, taking care to stop before any of the sedi¬ 
 ment rises; the jelly may be flavoured with wine, sugar, 
 lemon-juice, &c. at pleasure, in the same manner as directed 
 for calves’ feet and other jellies. Or this jelly may be pre¬ 
 pared with half the quantity of water, to which, when strained 
 off, may be added an equal quantity of new milk, the whole 
 warmed together, sweetened and flavoured in the same man¬ 
 ner as blancmange. 
 
 SYRUPS, CONSERVES, AND CANDIES. 
 
 Orange Syrup. 
 
 Rasp eight China oranges into a basin, squeeze one dozen 
 more and two lemons to the rind. Mix these together; then 
 drain the juice through a sieve, take one quart of fine syrup, 
 and boil it high, put this to the rest of the syrup, and bottle 
 the whole for use. 
 
 Syrup of Capillaire. 
 
 Clarify with the whites of three eggs, four pounds of lump 
 sugar, mixed with three quarts of spring water, ar.d ona 
 
SYRUPS, CONSERVES, AND CANDIES. 
 
 623 
 
 quarter of an ounce of isinglass. When cold, add orange- 
 fbwer water, and a little syrup of cloves. Put it into bottles 
 well corked. 
 
 Syrup of Cloves. 
 
 Put four ounces of cloves to one quart of boiling water, 
 cover it close, set it over a fire, and boil it gently half an 
 hour; then drain it, and add to each pint of liquor two 
 pounds of lump sugar. Clear it with the whites of two eggs 
 beaten up with cold water, and simmer till it becomes a strong 
 syrup. Keep it in bottles closely corked. Cinnamon or 
 mace may be done in the same way. 
 
 Orgeat Syrup. 
 
 Beat in a mortar half a pound of sweet, and an ounce of 
 bitter almonds, mix the same with a quart of water, strain it 
 through a cloth, and add a glass of orange-flower water. 
 Boil two quarts of syrup pretty high, mix what drains from 
 the almonds with the syrup on the fire, and let it boil till it 
 is fine and clear. Put it warm into bottles, and the next day 
 f'ork them close, w'ith bladder over them. 
 
 Syrup of Mulberries and Cherries. 
 
 Boil them about a minute with very little water, and to 
 every quart of juice put one pound of lump sugar. Make 
 the whole into a syrup over a slow fire. 
 
 Orgeat. 
 
 Boil a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, sweeten 
 to your taste, and let it grow cold : then pour it by degrees to 
 three ounces of sweet almonds, and twenty bitter, that have been 
 blanched and beaten to a paste, with a little water to prevent 
 oiling; boil all together, and stir till cold, then add half a 
 glass of brandy. 
 
 Another way.—Blanch and pound three quarters of a pound 
 
624 
 
 SYRUPS, CONSERVES, AND CANDIES*. 
 
 of sweet almonds, and thirty bitter, with a spoonful of water. 
 Stir in by degress two pints of water, and three of milk, and 
 strain the whole through a cloth. Dissolve half a pound of fine 
 sugar in a pint of water, boil and skim it well; mix it with 
 the other, as likewise two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, 
 and a tea-cupful of the best brandy. 
 
 Another way.—Beat two ounces of almonds with a tea¬ 
 spoonful of orange-flower water, and a bitter almond or two ; 
 then pour a quart of milk and water to the paste. Sweeten 
 with sugar or capillaire. This is a fine drink for those who 
 have a tender chest; and in the gout it is highly useful, and, 
 with the addition of half an ounce of gum arabic, has been 
 found to allay the painfulness of the attendant heat. Half a 
 glass of brandy may be added if thought too cooling in ihe 
 latter complaints, and the glass of orgeat may be put into a 
 basin of warm water. 
 
 Orangeade, or lemonade. 
 
 Squeeze the juice; pour boiling water on a little of the 
 peel, and cover close. Boil water and sugar to a thin syrup 
 and skim it. When all are cold, mix the juice, the infusion, 
 and the syrup, with as much more water as will make a rich 
 sherbet; strain through a jelly-bag. Or squeeze the juice, 
 and strain it, and add water and capillaire. 
 
 Conserves are compositions of fresh vegetables beaten with 
 sugar into an uniform mass; thrice their weight in sugar is 
 usually prescribed, but twice is amply sufficient, and leaves 
 more room for the beneficial properties of the vegetable with 
 less of the cloying weight of sugar. Vegetables must be 
 freed from skin and stalks, and flowers from their cups. 
 They are then to be pounded in a marble mortar, with a 
 wooden pestle until reduced to a smooth mass, and the sugar 
 then added to them by degrees. 
 
 Conserve of Hoses* 
 
 lake a pound of red rose-buds, cleared of their hulls, beat 
 
SYRUPS, CONSERVES, AND CANDIES. C2& 
 
 them well in a mortal, and add by degrees two pounds of dou¬ 
 ble-refined sugar in powder until reduced to a conserve. 
 
 Conserve of Hips and Haws. 
 
 Useful conserves are made of these hedge fruits either se¬ 
 parately or in equal parts of each; the skin, seeds, and hairy 
 parts must be carefully removed, and that part alone used 
 which is of itself almost a pulp; then proceed in the same 
 manner as with roses. A drachm or two of these conserves 
 dissolved in warm milk is given as a gentle restringent in 
 weakness of the stomach, phthisical coughs, and spitting of 
 blood; but to expect any considerable effects, at least three or 
 four ounces should be taken daily for a considerable time to¬ 
 gether. In like manner conserves may be made of orange- 
 peel, rosemary flowers, sea-wormwood, wood, sorrel leaves, 
 &c. but none are so important as those first mentioned. 
 
 Marmalade for a Cough 
 
 Stone six ounces of Malaga raisins, and beat them to a 
 paste with as much sugar-candy. Add one ounce of con¬ 
 serve of roses, twenty-five drops of oil of vitriol, and twenty 
 of oil of sulphur. Mix the whole well together, and tak^ 
 about the quantity of a nutmeg night and morning. 
 
 Conserve of Oranges or Lemons. 
 
 Grate the rind of an orange or lemon into a plate, squeeze 
 the juice of the fruit over it, and mix the whole with a spoon. 
 Then boil some sugar high, mix the fruit therewith, and when 
 thick enough, put it into moulds. Conserve of orange- 
 peel is made by steeping the rinds in water, moderately heated, 
 till tender; and then straining and pounding them in a marble 
 mortar. After this, the pulp is brought to a proper consist¬ 
 ence over a gentle fire, with the addition of three times its 
 quantity of sugar. The whole is then reduced to a conserve 
 by beating in a mortar. 
 
 a 21 
 
f2($ SYRUPS, CONSERVES, AND CAND1EA* 
 
 Balsam of Honey Syrup. 
 
 To one pound of honey add a tea-cupful of vinegar; boil 
 and skim it well; when cold, stir in one ounce of the elixir ot 
 paragoric, and bottle : if half a pint of the essence of malt is 
 added, it will make it more complete. ■ A table-spoonful to be 
 taken three times a day for a cough. 
 
 To cindy Ginger ; useful for Flatulency and Pain in the 
 
 Stomach. 
 
 Put one ounce of ginger grated fine, and a pound of loaf 
 sugar beaten, into a preserving pan, with as much water as will 
 dissolve the latter. Stir the whole over a slow fire till the 
 sugar begins to boil; then put in a pound more beaten fine, 
 and keep stirring it till thick Take it off, and drop it in 
 cakes upon earthen plates. Set them in a warm place to 
 dry. 
 
 To candy Horehound ; good for Coughs and 
 Hoarseness. 
 
 Boil it in water till the juice is extracted. Then boil 
 some sugar to a feather, add thereto the juice of the hore¬ 
 hound, and boil it again to the same height. Stir it with a 
 spoon against the sides of the pan till thick ; then pour it into 
 a paper case, previously dusted with fine sugar, and cut it into 
 squares; or the horehound may be dried, and put into the 
 sugar finely powdered and sifted. 
 
 To candy Rhubarb ; a good Stomachic . 
 
 Take an ounce of rhuoarb in powder, as much of fine 
 ginger, eighteen ounces of sugar, and three drops of oil ot 
 peppermint. Boil the sugar to a feather, mix in the ingre¬ 
 dients, and stir the whole till it begins to granulate. Put it 
 into sugared paper cases. 
 
SYRUPS, CONSERVES, AND CANDIES. 
 
 fi27 
 
 To candy Cassia . 
 
 Pound a little brown cassia, with some musk and amber¬ 
 gris. Boil a quarter of a pound of sugar to the degree of 
 candy, mix in the ppwder, and then pour the s^rup into 
 saucers till cold. 
 
 To candy Angelica. 
 
 Cut the angelica when young, cover it close, and boil it 
 tender. Then peel, and put it in again, letting it simmer till 
 green. Take it out, and dry it with a cloth, adding to every 
 pound of stalks as much sugar. Put them into a pan, beat 
 up the sugar, strew it over, and let them stand two days. 
 Boil the angelica till clear and green, and put it into a 
 colander to drain. Beat another pound of sugar to powder, 
 strew it over, lay it on plates, and let it stand in a slack oven 
 to dry. 
 
 The following Recipes which are more immediately connected with 
 Cookery for the Sick.” and should have been introduced before 
 Jellies, are here inserted as an Appendix to that Article. 
 
 Eggs 
 
 Are very nourishing, as well as light, and are often recom¬ 
 mended when solid meat is not allowed ; they are most whole¬ 
 some raw, and may be eaten in various ways. Beaten up fine 
 with a little moist sugar, and stirred into a wine glass of spring 
 water; in this way they are very serviceable for a cold and 
 hoarseness; or two eggs beaten up with sugar and nutmeg 
 and stirred gradually into half a pint of boiling milk; 
 or the yelk and white beaten up separately, and then mixed 
 with half a glass of white wine, and half a glass of warn? 
 water. If dressed at all, they should be very lightly boiled 
 or poached, and the yelks only eaten by sick persons. 
 
628 
 
 EGG SOUP, &C. 
 
 The following is a nutricious and agreeable draught 
 Beat up a new laid egg, mix it with a quarter of a pint of 
 new milk, a spoonful of capillaire, one of rose-water, and a 
 little nutmeg. It should be taken the first thing in the 
 morning and last at night 
 
 German Egg Soup. 
 
 Beat up the yelk of an egg in a pint of water, put in a 
 little butter, with two or three lumps of sugar, and stir the 
 whole all the time it is on the fire. • When it begins to boil, 
 pour it backwards and forwards, between the saucepan and 
 the basin, till it is smooth, and has gained a froth. This is 
 good in a cold. 
 
 White Pot. 
 
 Beat up eight eggs, leaving out half the whites, with a 
 little rose-water, nutmeg, and four ounces of brown sugar. 
 Cut a roll or small loaf into thin slices, pour the milk and 
 egg over them, add thereto a piece of butter, and bake it for 
 half an hour. 
 
 Egg Wine, 
 
 Beat an egg, mix with it a spoonful of cold water; set on 
 the fire a glass of white wine, half a glass of water, sugar, 
 and nutmeg. When it boils, pour a little of it to the egg 
 by degrees, till the whole be in, stirring it well; then re¬ 
 turn the whole into the saucepan, put it on a gentle fire, stir 
 it one way for not more than a minute ; for if it boil, or the 
 egg be stale, it will curdle. Serve with toast. 
 
 Egg wine may be made as above, without warming the 
 egg, and it is then lighter on the stomach, though not so 
 pleasant to the taste., 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES FOR BREAKFAST, 
 LUNCHEON, SUPPER, &c. 
 
 To make Tea. 
 
 It may seem needless to give directions for the prepara¬ 
 tion of this daily beverage ; but failure is so common, that a 
 few remarks may not be unacceptable. 
 
 In order to have good tea, the tea must be good of its 
 kind. The cheap teas so eagerly bought by many people are 
 in general base and pernicious imitations of the real article, 
 and have in many instances produced the most injurious effects. 
 Persons who cannot afford to buy good foreign tea had far 
 better content themselves with the acknowledged produce oi 
 our own country, mint, balm, sage, rosemary, See. all of which 
 are very wholesome, and will be found on trial to answer every 
 beneficial purpose of foreign tea. 
 
 Tea is generally supposed to have a prejudicial effect on 
 the nerves and stomach; if taken too hot or too strong, or in 
 excessive quantities, or without a due proportion of solid food, 
 it certainly is injurious; but the moderate use of tea is bene¬ 
 ficial to most constitutions as it promotes digestion, clears the 
 head, and gently stimulates the system without producing 
 those feverish or intoxicating effects so inseparable from 
 stimulants in general. 
 
 Good black tea is generally admitted to be the most bene¬ 
 ficial and the least prejudicial, but most people prefer it with 
 a mixture of green ; green alone is certainly injurious. 
 
 Soft water is always to be preferred for tea making, as hard 
 water both imparts an unpleasant taste, and fails to extract the 
 goodness from the htrb. It is essential too that the water per¬ 
 fectly boils at the moment of making tea, and it is desirable that 
 
530 
 
 TO MAKE COFFEE. 
 
 it should boil only then. If water be kept boiling over the fire, 
 or on the hob, for hours or even minutes, the tea is never so 
 well flavoured as when made immediately that it boils. The tea 
 kettle should be carefully rinsed out every time previously to 
 filling, and kept free from fur. The tea-pot, too, every time 
 after using, should be well washed with clean boiling water 
 and perfectly dried. If left damp, or washed in greasy 
 water, or wiped with a damp and half dirty cloth, an un¬ 
 pleasant taste is sure to be returned and imparted to the tea. 
 It should also be rinsed with scalding water the moment be¬ 
 fore making tea, and carefully drained. As to the size of the 
 tea-pot, it should be such as to allow at twice filling the num¬ 
 ber of cups required. It had better be too large than too 
 small. If water be added a third time it is very poor, and 
 tea added after the first making neither goes so far, nor gives 
 so pleasant a flavour, as when the whole is made at once. 
 
 Some people brew their tea, that is, put at first a very 
 small quantity of water, enough just to wet the leaves either 
 in the tea-pot or in a cup, and stand it on the hob for a con¬ 
 siderable time, and at the moment of using fill up the pot 
 with boiling water. This may be an economical method of 
 making tea; but it is certainly not so agreeable in point of 
 flavour. Tea is never better than when the whole quantity 
 of the herb is put into a pot full large enough to contain half 
 the quantity of liquor required, and filled up quickly from a 
 kettle just arrived at boiling, instantly covered up, poured out 
 in five minutes and the tea-pot filled up again. 
 
 To make tea of a good strength but not extravagant, a 
 caddie-spoonful or two tea-spoonfuls should be allowed for 
 every half pint of tea required. Good cream and good sugar, 
 if used at all, are essential to a good cup of tea; poor milk 
 and coarse sugar will spoil the best tea in the world. The 
 cream and sugar mingle much better, and the whole tastes 
 more smooth and pleasant if those articles be put in the cup 
 first and the tea added to them. 
 
 It is asserted by some female connoisseurs in tea, and 
 perhaps it would be more difficult to disprove than to account 
 for the fact, that tea tastes much better from cups of Indian 
 than of British china. However, from the improving state 
 
TO MAKE COFFEE. 
 
 631 
 
 of our own HisnufacturGS) 2nd the duty incumbent on every 
 British subject to encourage them, it is hoped the partiality 
 or prejudice (be it which it may) in favour of foreign articles 
 will pass away with the present race of housekeepers. 
 
 Coffee 
 
 Like tea clears the head, exhilarates the spirits, and pro¬ 
 motes digestion. It is however more heating in its tendency, 
 and with some persons is apt to confine the bowels. 
 
 Coffee is considered beneficial to rheumatic persons, in 
 which case it is usual to stir in a little made mustard. 
 
 There are many substitutes for coffee which are often 
 palmed on the public for the genuine article; but those who 
 are accustomed to the taste and smell of the real Turkey 
 coffee cannot easily be deceived. The raw berries improve 
 by keeping; but the sooner they are used after roasting the 
 better, as they are apt to lose their richness if kept too long. 
 Coffee especially injures by being kept after it is ground. 
 Previously to grinding coffee, it is a good way to put the 
 berries in a basin or on the hob, or in a cool oven for some 
 hours. 
 
 A quarter of a pound of berries is not too much for mak¬ 
 ing a good pot of coffee, or the proportion of one cupful of 
 coffee to six of water 
 
 Coffee should be perfectly clear and of a fine bright amber 
 colour, to secure which it is generally recommended to use isin¬ 
 glass, whites of eggs, mustard, &c. for clearing it; but a 
 more simple process will be found equally successful and pre¬ 
 serves the flavour of the coffee better. 
 
 The coffee-pot should be not more than three parts filled 
 with water, the heat of which is not very material, perhaps the 
 nearer to boiling the better; on this put the coffee, let it stand 
 a few minutes to sink; having done so, set it^ over the fire; 
 when it begins to bubble add a tea-cupful of cold water and 
 set it on again, taking it off and holding it over the fire 
 alternately, so as to keep it at the point of boiling for three 
 or four minutes. Then pour out a cupful and return it two 
 or three times; and having done so, let it remain quietly on 
 the hob to keep hot until it becomes perfectly clear and 
 
632 
 
 TO MAKE CHOCOLATE. 
 
 bright. When poured into the urn or coffee-pot in which 
 it is to be served, great care must be taken to pour it steadily 
 and to stop short before any sediment comes forward. 
 
 Coffee should always be served extremely hot; it is greatly 
 improved by the addition of good cream, put first into the 
 cup as recommended for tea. Fine Lisbon sugar, or pow¬ 
 dered sugar-candy are usually preferred for coffee; but those 
 who wish to have the true flavour of either tea or coffee 
 should learn to drink them without sweetening. 
 
 O 
 
 To make Coffee as used by Buonaparte. 
 
 Put the ground coffee into a vessel with a strainer, and 
 pour the water on it perfectly cold ; plunge this vessel into 
 another filled with boiling water, which must be kept at the 
 boiling pitch till the process is completed. This method is 
 thought to preserve the flavour of the coffee. 
 
 Coffee as made in Paris. 
 
 Take, when the coffee is needed, nearly one ounce of the 
 best powder recently prepared, and put it, with a very little 
 shred saffron, into a grecque, (as the vessel is called in France : 
 one of nearly similar construction, called an imperial , is now 
 commonly used in England, and is found very convenient.) 
 Pour in boiling water, till it bubbles up through the strainer, 
 and then close the vessel, and place it near the fire; and as 
 soon as the whole water is passed through, the coffee is 
 made. 
 
 Coffee Milk. 
 
 Boil coffee-powder, according to the strength you want it, 
 in new milk for five minutes. Allow it to settle, and pour 
 it off, or clear it with a few bits of isinglass. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 It is reckoned an economical plan, where much chocolate 
 is used, to put a cake of chocolate shaved very fine into a 
 pint of boiling water, and let it simmer till melted, stirring it 
 a 1 ! the time. This will keep several days, and may be boiled 
 
COCOA. 
 
 633 
 
 up as wanted with milk and sugar and well frothed. This 
 quantity is sufficient to make twelve cups of rich chocolate. 
 It will be easy therefore to judge how much of it to use 
 according to the number of cups required. But this, though 
 first mentioned, is by no means the best method of preparing 
 chocolate. The long boiling and re-warming destroy the 
 fine oily particles of the chocolate, or give it a rancid flavour. 
 
 By far the most agreeable and wholesome method of 
 making chocolate is this:—Boil equal quantities of milk and 
 water; when perfectly boiling, throw in a sufficient quantity of 
 chocolate aely shaved, and instantly mill it well till it will 
 bear a fin: roth; but never let it go near the fire after the 
 chocolate is ad ,. The quantity of chocolate may be varied 
 according to the degree of richness required; a square (of 
 which there are eigh‘ in each cake) will make half a pint very 
 rich, rather more so than is agreeable to persons in general. 
 A little fine moist sugar should be added after it is taken 
 from the fire, and the chocolate milled to the very moment of 
 serving. 
 
 Chocolate is sometimes made in gruel either with or with¬ 
 out milk, in which case the best way is to have the gruel 
 perfectly boiling - throw in the chocolate, sweeten and mill as 
 above directed. 
 
 Chocolate is very nutritive and balsamic, it is therefore 
 often used for consumptive persons, and those recovering from 
 complaints of the chest; but on account of its richness it is 
 apt, with some constitutions, to set heavy on the stomach and 
 provoke the bile. For these reasons cocoa is rather pre¬ 
 ferred for weak stomachs, as imparting equal nourishment 
 and being lighter of digestion. The best chocolate and 
 jocoa are those prepared by White and Sons, Greelt 
 Street, Soho. 
 
 Cocoa 
 
 Is made by boiling a considerable time in water, then pour¬ 
 ing off clear, and mixing with warm milk and sugar to taste. 
 Two dessert spoonfuls will make a pint. If good it will neatly 
 all dissolve. The cocoa paste is now very much in use, both 
 as chocolate and cocoa. It is very good and the method of 
 b 27 4 m 
 
031 - 
 
 TOAST 
 
 preparing it very simple. It is merely to stir into a cup ot 
 boiling water a large tea-spoonful of the paste, this makes a 
 cup of rich chocolate, to which add sugar and milk to taste. 
 For cocoa, a much smaller quantity of the paste will suffice, 
 and a larger quantity of milk is generally used. Rusks 
 are generally eaten with both chocolate and cocoa. 
 
 Bread and Butter 
 
 Is usually cut from bread of the same day’s baking; it 
 should, however, have a few hours to settle, otherwise it is 
 almost impossible to cut slices straight and thin. The butter 
 should be lightly and evenly spread, neither appearing in 
 rough lumps nor yet looking as if spread down for a plaister. 
 It is always desirable to have fresh made butter, if possible, in 
 its natural state, that is, without the necessity of either warm¬ 
 ing or chilling it; but ih very cold weather it is impossible to 
 spread bread and butter without a Jittle warming it. In 
 such case no more should be warmed at a time than is wanted ; 
 it should be held before the fire rather than put on the hob 
 or in an oven, and kept stirred about with a knife all the 
 time to prevent its oiling. Some people prefer warming the 
 butter over a basin of boiling water. In summer time the 
 butter may be put a few minutes in cold water to give it 
 firmness. 
 
 Toast * 
 
 Is much lighter if made from a loaf at least one day old. It 
 is also better cut the flat way of the loaf; that is, leaving the 
 crust top and bottom instead of round the edges of the toast. 
 A fire for toasting should be clear and bright, free from 
 smoke and flame. The bread should be held near enough to 
 toast briskly, but moved about to prevent its burning in one 
 part before the rest is done. Plates should be made hot in 
 readiness, one on which to butter the toast, and another to pass 
 it on after it is spread and cut. It should be buttered on 
 both sides, and served as quickly as possible, each round on a 
 separate plate, not piled one on another. Good salt butter 
 answers very well for buttering toast or hot rolls; but for 
 
EGGS. 
 
 635 
 
 company fresh is generally preferred. Toast for buttering cold, 
 or eating dry, should be cut rather thinner and baked drier than 
 for buttering hot. The moment it is taken from the fire, it 
 should be put in a rack for the steam to evaporate ; for if it be 
 laid down one moment it will lose all the crispness. 
 
 Eggs. 
 
 When used for breakfast, eggs are usually either boiled oi 
 poached. The medium time for boiling a good sized egg is 
 three minutes and a half, to be put in when the water boils. 
 In less time than this the white of a fresh egg is scarcely set, 
 and longer approaches to hard boiling. 
 
 For poaching they must be carefully broken into separate 
 cups, and thence carefully slipped into a large saucepan or 
 frying pan of boiling water; as soon as the white is perfectly 
 set they are done enough, and must, be taken up by sliding an 
 egg-slice under the eggs, which are to be served on buttered 
 toast. 
 
 Buttered Eggs. 
 
 Beat four or five eggs, yelk and white together, put a quar¬ 
 ter of a pound of butter in a basin, and then put that in boil¬ 
 ing water, stir it till melted, then pour that butter and the 
 eggs into a saucepan; keep a basin in your hand, just hold 
 the saucepan in the other over a slow part of the fire, shaking 
 it one way ; as it begins to warm, pour it into a basin and back, 
 then hold it again over the fire, stirring it constantly in the 
 saucepan, and pouring it into the basin, more perfectly to mix 
 the egg and butter, until they shall be hot without boiling 
 Serve on toasted bread; or in a basin, to eat with salt fish, 
 or red herrings. 
 
 Scotch Eggs. 
 
 Boil hard five pullet’s eggs, and without removing the 
 white, cover completely with fine relishing forcemeat, in 
 which let scraped ham, or chopped anchovy, bear a due pso- 
 portion. Fry of a beautiful yellow brown, and serve with a 
 good gravy in the dish. 
 
630 
 
 ROAST CHEESE, &e. 
 
 An Omelet. 
 
 Beat up six eggs with salt, pepper in fine powder, a large 
 spoonful of parsley very finely shred, half the quantity of chives 
 or green onion, a small bit of shalot, some grated ham or 
 tongue; or lobster meat, the soft part of oysters, shrimps, or 
 grated cheese may be used. Let the several things be very 
 finely minced, and well mixed with the batter, adding a large 
 spoonful of flour, and some bits of butter. Fry the omelet 
 in plenty of very hot butter in a nicely tinned small frying 
 pan, stirring it constantly till it is firm, and then lifting the 
 edges with a knife, that the butter may get below. Carefully 
 turn the omelet by placing a plate over it, and return it into 
 the frying-pan to brown on the other side ; or without turn¬ 
 ing, hold the pan before the fire till the raw is taken off the 
 upper side ; double it, and serve it very hot. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. 
 
 Bone and skin six or eight anchovies; pound them to a 
 mass with an ounce of fine butter till the colour is equal, and 
 then spread it on toast or rusks. 
 
 Another way.— Cut thin slices of bread into any form, 
 and fry them in clarified butter. Wash three anchovies split, 
 pound them in a mortar with some fresh butter, rub them 
 through a hair sieve, and spread them on the toast when cold. 
 Then quarter and wash some anchovies, and lay them on the 
 toast. Garnish with parsley or pickles. 
 
 Toast Cheese , to come up after Dinner. 
 
 Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix it with the 
 yelks of two eggs, four ounces of grated bread, and three 
 ounces of butter; beat the whole well in a mortar with a 
 dessert-spoonful of mustard, and a little salt and pepper. Toast 
 some bread, cut it into proper pieces, lay the paste as above 
 thick upon them, put them into a Dutch oven, covered with a 
 dish, till hot through ; remove the dish, and let the cheese 
 brown a little. Serve as hot as possible. 
 
IIAMAKIN8. 
 
 637 
 
 Welch Rabbit 
 
 Toast a slice of bread on both sides, and butter it; toast 
 a slice of Gloucester cheese on one side, and lay that next 
 the bread, and toast the other with a salamander • rub mus¬ 
 tard over, and serve very hot and covered. 
 
 Cheese Toast. 
 
 Mix some fine butter, made mustard, and salt, into a mass, 
 spread it on fresh-made thin toast, and grate or scrape Glou¬ 
 cester cheese upon them. 
 
 A Scotch Rabbit. 
 
 Toast slices of bread about half an inch thick, butter and 
 keep them hot. Meanwhile grate down mellow Stilton, 
 Gouda, or good Dunlop cheese; and if not fat put to it some 
 hits of fresh butter. Put this into a cheese-toaster with a 
 hot water reservoir, and add to it a glassful of well-flavoured 
 brown stout porter, a large tea spoonful of made mustard, and 
 pepper very finely ground, to taste. Stir the mixture till it 
 is completely dissolved, brown it, and then, filling the reservoir 
 with boiling water, serve the cheese with the hot toasts on a 
 separate dish. Red wine is sometimes used instead of porter, 
 and sometimes, as a variety, the toasts are dipped in hot 
 water. 
 
 Polled Cheese, 
 
 Cut and pound four ounces of Cheshire cheese, one ounce 
 and a half of fine butter, a tea-spoonful of white pounded 
 sugar, a little bit of mace, and a glass of white wine. Press 
 it down in a deep pot. 
 
 Ramakins. 
 
 Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and the same ol 
 Gloucester cheese, and of good fresh butter; then beat all in 
 a mortar with the yelks of four eggs, and the inside of a small 
 French roll boiled in cream till soft; mix the paste then with 
 the white* of the eggs previously beaten, and put into small 
 
638 
 
 MACARONI 
 
 paper pans, made rather long than square, and bake in a 
 Dutch oven till of a fine brown. They should be eaten 
 quite hot. Some like the addition of a glass of white wine. 
 The batter for ramakins is equally good over macaroni when 
 boiled tender; or on stewed brocoli, celery, or cauliflower, a 
 little of the gravy they have been stewed in, being put in the 
 dish with them ; but not enough to make the vegetables swim. 
 
 Macaroni as usually served. 
 
 Boil it in milk, or a weak veal broth, pretty well flavoured 
 with salt. When tender, put it into a dish without the 
 liquor, and among it put some bits of butter and grated cheese, 
 and over the top grate more, and a little more butter. Set 
 the dish into a Dutch oven a quarter of an hour, but do not 
 let the top become hard. 
 
 Another way.—Wash it well, and simmer in half milk, 
 and half broth of veal or mutton, till it is tender. To a 
 spoonful of this liquor, put the yelk of an egg beaten in a 
 spoonful of cream; just make it hot to thicken, but not boil: 
 put it over the macaroni, and then grate fine old cheese all 
 over, and bits of butter. Brown with the salamander. 
 
 Another way.—Wash the macaroni, then simmer it in a 
 little broth, with a little pounded mace and salt. When 
 quite tender, take it out of the liquor, lay it in a dish, grate 
 a good deal of cheese over, then cover that with bread grated 
 fine. Warm some butter without oiling, and pour it from a 
 boat hrough a little earthen colander all over the crumbs, 
 then put the dish in a Dutch oven to roast the cheese, and 
 brown the bread of a fine colour. The bread should be in 
 separated crumbs, and look light. 
 
[ 639 ] 
 
 SPICERIES, CORDIALS, &c. COMMONLY DENOMINATED 
 
 NIGHTCAPS. 
 
 Mulled Wine. 
 
 Boil the spiceries (cinnamon, nutmeg grated, cloves, and 
 mace) in any quantity approved, in a quarter of a pint of water 
 or better; put to this a full pint of port, with sugar to taste. 
 Mix it well. Serve with toasts or rusks. Mulled wine when 
 made with Bordeaux or Port wine is called “ Bishop,” when 
 old Rhenish wine is used it takes the name of “ Cardinal,” 
 and when imperial Tokay is employed obtains the dignity of 
 ‘‘ Pope.” 
 
 Clary 
 
 Is made of a mixture of claret wine and mead, or claret 
 sweetened with honey and flavoured with aromatic spices. 
 
 Sack 
 
 Is in like manner prepared from the wine of that name. 
 They are all frequently prepared without any mixture ot 
 water; and sometimes, even with the addition of spirits; in 
 which case it need scarcely be observed, they become exces¬ 
 sively feverish and intoxicating. 
 
 Buttered Toddy 
 
 Is strong rum and water, sweetened with honey, enriched 
 with a good lump of fresh butter, and flavoured with nutmeg 
 and lemon juice. It is much in favour with naval gentlemen. 
 
 Egg Flip. 
 
 Keep grated ginger and nutmeg with a little fine dried 
 lemon-peel rubbed together in a mortar. To make a quart 
 of flip :—Put the ale on the fire to warm, and beat up three 
 or four eggs with four ounces of moist sugar, a tea-spoonful 
 of grated nutmeg or ginger, and a quartern of good old rum 
 or brandy. When the ale is near to boil, put it into one 
 
40 
 
 SPICEEIES, CORD! \LS, &C. 
 
 pitcher, and the rum and eggs, &c. into another; turn it from 
 one pitcher to another till it is as smooth as cream 
 
 Punch. 
 
 Take two large fresh lemons with rough skins, quite ripe, 
 and some large lumps of double-refined sugar. Rub t e 
 sugar over tne lemons till it has absorbed all the yellow part 
 of the skins. Then put into the bowl these lumps, and as 
 much more as the juice of the lemons may be supposed to re¬ 
 quire ; for no certain weight can be mentioned, as the acidity 
 of a lemon cannot be known till tried, and therefore this must 
 be determined by the taste. Then squeeze the lemon-juice 
 upon the sugar; and with a bruiser press the sugar and the 
 juice particularly well together, for a great deal of the richness 
 and fine flavour of the punch depends on this rubbing and 
 mixing process being thoroughly performed. Then mix 
 this up very well with boiling water (soft water is best) till 
 the whole is rather cool. When this mixture, which is now 
 railed tVie sherbet, is to your taste, take brandy and rum in 
 oqual quantities, and put them to it, mixing the whole web 
 together again. The quantity of liquor must be according to 
 your taste : two good lemons are generally enough to make four 
 quarts of punch, including a quart of liquor, with half a 
 pound of sugar; but this depends much on taste, and on the 
 strength of the spirit. As the pulp is disagreeable to some 
 persons, the sherbet may be strained before the liquor is put 
 in. Some strain the lemon before they put it to the sugar, 
 which is improper; as, when the pulp and sugar are well 
 mixed together, it adds much to the richness of the punch. 
 When only rum is used, about half a pint of porter will soften 
 the punch ; and even when both rum and brandy' are used, 
 the norter gives a richness, and to some a very pleasant flavour 
 
 Glasgow Punch. 
 
 Melt the sugar with a little cold water; to this add the 
 juice of a dozen lemons. When well mixed, add the re¬ 
 mainder of the.water required: again mix well, then add to 
 every quart of this sherbet, from one third to half a pint of 
 
SPICERIES, CORDIALS, &C. 
 
 641 
 
 rme, and squeeze in the juice of lemons sufficient to bring 
 the whole to a pleasant acid. 
 
 Common Punch. 
 
 Take a tea-spoonful of the acid salt of lemons, a quarter 
 of a pound of sugar, a quart of boiling water, half a pint of 
 rum, and a quarter of a pint of brandy, add a small piece of 
 lemon-peel, if agreeable, or a very little of the essence of 
 lemon. 
 
 Gin Punch 
 
 Is made exactly in the same manner, except that instead 
 of half a pint of rum, and a quarter of a pint of brandy one 
 pint of gin is added. 
 
 Eau de Vie. 
 
 Thinly rind seven large oranges or lemons, or part of each 
 dissolve and clear six ounces of double-refined sugar in half a 
 pint of spring water; this should be done in a silver vessel. 
 When quite clear, add to it a quarter of a pint of milk, warm 
 from the cow, or if that cannot be obtained, rich new milk re¬ 
 stored to that degree of warmth. Then put into an earthen 
 jar or large bottle, the rind, syrup, and milk, with a quart of 
 old rum or French brandy. For perfume, Goa stone may 
 be used, or a very small quantity of musk, ambergris, or es¬ 
 sence of lemon, as may be preferred; but most people dislike 
 the admission of any kind of perfume. Cork it up very 
 close, and shake it daily for ten days. Then filter through 
 paper and bottle for occasional use. 
 
 Hot Pint. 
 
 Into two quarts of ale, strong yet mild, grate a nutmeg, and 
 bring it to the point of boiling: meanwhile beat two eggs 
 with a quarter of a pound, or more, of moist sugar and a small 
 quantity of cold ale; having well beaten this, gradually mix 
 the hot ale with it, taking care that it does not curdle: then 
 add half a pint of brandy or gin, bring the whole once more 
 nearly to boil; then pour it from one vessel into another till 
 c 27 4 n 
 
643 SPJCERIES, CORDIALS, &C. 
 
 \t become perfectly smooth and bright. It is usually served 
 >sth toast. 
 
 Sops and Ale * 
 
 Cut rounds of bread, the quantity required, rather more 
 to an half an inch thick; toast them of a fine regular brown. 
 In a China bowl, large enough to contain the mess, put half a 
 pint of very strong yet mild ale. Some will add thereto a 
 glass of the best brandy. As fast as each round of bread is 
 toasted, spread it thickly with fine 1 moist sugar and grated 
 nutmeg, lay in the bowl and add beer enough to moisten it; 
 the beer should be poured gently so as not to break the toast. 
 Thus go on adding toast and beer till the bowl is full. ■ The 
 best brown stout porter is sometimes used for this purpose, 
 but strong ale is generally preferred. 
 
 In compliance with custom these recipes are inserted, as a 
 cookery book would be reckoned incomplete without them; 
 but the writer cannot dismiss this department of the work 
 without remarking that every article above mentioned is seduc¬ 
 tive, heating, and intoxicating. That there is no common 
 idea more fallacious or more destructive than that these 
 things are strengthening, nourishing, or beneficial to persons 
 who have been exposed to cold or to violent fatigue. There 
 is good reason to believe that this mistaken notion has been 
 the death of hundreds, by inflammatory fevers, and the ruin 
 of at least hundreds more by inducing the habitual use of spi¬ 
 rituous liquors. The following is a very refreshing and per¬ 
 fectly harmless beverage, in addition to which several will be 
 found under the article of ii Cookery for the Sick,” both plea¬ 
 sant and beneficial to be taken in the cases above supposed. 
 
 Lemonade. 
 
 Take any number of lemons, suitable to the quantity of 
 liquor wanted ; pare them as thin as possible, then rub the 
 surface with knobs of refined sugar, to extract all the flavour; 
 
 • Formerly in great request in the country as a gossip’s junket, over 
 which the nurses not unfrequently regaled themselves, to the shameful 
 neglect and injury of their charge. 
 
HOME BREWED BEER, &c. 
 
 643 
 
 put the saturated sugar into a basin, and squeeze the lemons 
 over it. Add the best refined sugar to taste. Hot water 
 and a little boiling milk, if approved, may be added, in 
 the proportions wished for : three quarts to two dozen lemons 
 is a fair quantity, using the whole juice, but only half the 
 rinds. Scum the liquoi when well mixed, and run it through 
 a jelly-bag, previously dipped in hot water. 
 
 Portable Lemonade , convenient on Voyages , or in the 
 
 Country. 
 
 Take of tartaric acid one half ounce, refined sugar three 
 ounces, essence of lemon half a drachm. Pound the tartaric 
 acid and sugar very well in a marble mortar, and gradually 
 pour the essence upon the mixture. Mix the whole very 
 well, and paper it off for use in twelve separate parcels; each 
 of which, when mixed with a tumbler of water, will make a 
 very pleasant and refreshing draught. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, WINES, CORDIALS, &c. 
 
 The practice of brewing at home is now becoming pretty 
 general, and, wherever practicable, is to be greatly preferred, 
 both on the ground of economy and health. On a moderate 
 calculation, beer of any strength may be obtained by home 
 brewino- at half the cost of brewers’ beer; but this is not the 
 highest consideration. The common practice of brewers is 
 frequently detected and generally admitted, of putting into 
 their beer, for the purpose of giving strength or clearness 
 drugs of the most deleterious nature. The only security 
 
641 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 against this slow poisoning is to drink home-brewed beer. 
 Many families, though sensible of the pernicious nature olt 
 their daily beverage, and though to them the difference in ex¬ 
 pense between brewers’ beer and home brewed is a serious object, 
 shrink from what they suppose the expensive, tedious, laborious, 
 and complicated process of brewing; but such may rest assured 
 that they greatly magnify the difficulties of the undertaking: 
 that every part of the process may be rendered simple and 
 obvious to any person of common capacity : that a moderate 
 brewing may be performed by one person of moderate 
 strength in a day and a half,* certainly with less fatigue than 
 an ordinary day and a half of washing; that a little practice 
 and observation will render any one expert in the business, and 
 that the expense of brewing utensils will be saved in the 
 course of a year ; and when once obtained, if preserved with 
 care, will serve children’s children. 
 
 To speak first of the utensils required. A good sized and 
 well set copper is indispensable.f 
 
 This copper should at least hold forty gallons; as this size 
 suits the brewing of a moderate family, and just boils off a 
 barrel of beer, the instructions given will be calculated on that 
 scale. Common sense will teach any one to proportion the 
 ingredients used to the size of their copper, and the quantity 
 of beer required; this copper should be kept very clean and 
 bright, and if possible confined to the use of brewing; at any 
 rate nothing greasy should at any time be suffered to come 
 near it, and if it must be occasionally used for washing, a 
 separate lid should be kept for each purpose, as the steam of 
 suds, ley, &c. is imbibed and retained by the wood, and im- 
 
 Tiiat is, three hours to prepare for the brewing by getting out and 
 clearing vessels, getting water, &c. twelve hours the day of brewing, and 
 three hours for tunning the beer, and putting away the vessels : this need 
 not occur more than three times a year. 
 
 f We speak of what is required in a moderate family ; many poor peo> 
 pie brew as little as a firkin at a time, and have no other convenience for 
 the purpose than a common pot or skillet: even this it would be to their 
 advantage to have set, asait ucli smaller quantity of fuel in what is called 
 the furnace of a copper wifi answ r the purpose, than when put under « 
 pot in a grite. 
 
HOME BREWED BEER, &C, 
 
 64 b 
 
 part an unpleasant and injurious flavour to the beer. The 
 same remark applies to tubs, and hence many people will not 
 use washing-tubs as coolers. It is certainly better to keep 
 all brewing utensils to that use alone; but as many tubs are 
 required for cooling, in fact the more that can be employed 
 the better, we venture to say that tubs occasionally used for 
 washing may be safely employed, provided they be always 
 carefully cleaned after washing, and soaked in cold water a 
 day or two before brewing. 
 
 1 he mash-tub should hold at least twice as much as the 
 copper; for a copper of forty gallons a mash-tub of 100 is 
 not any too large. Where saving in the original cost of the 
 brewing utensils is an object, it answers very well to purchase 
 the largest sized cask sold by the wine merchants, the two 
 ends of which are to be cut off ten inches or a foot deep, to 
 serve as coolers to the middle; a new bottom must be put, and 
 all well secured with iron hoops. Indeed, if you have a pro¬ 
 per mash-tub, such a tub as this will be very handy for hold¬ 
 ing water, wort, or beer, at various stages of the process, or in 
 cases requiring a smaller brewing. If painted outside, all tubs 
 are more durable. 
 
 The mash-tub, if made on purpose, should be rather wider 
 at top than at bottom; about four inches from the bottom it 
 must have a round hole about two inches in diameter. To 
 fit this hole a common spigot and faucet will be required, and 
 a wicker basket somewhat in the form of a bottle. This is 
 called a tapwaist; its use is to keep back the grains when the 
 wort runs off. A strong string is laced through the neck of 
 this basket-bottle (yet not so as to cross it). The basket 
 is put within the tub, the flat side downwards, and the string 
 slipped through the hole. It must be fixed very straight, and 
 one person must pull the string tight so as to keep the mouth 
 of the bottle close to the hole, while another fixes in the spigot 
 and faucet in front; a stand will be required, on which to place 
 the mash-tub; or two strong stools will answer the purpose. 
 
 An underbach, or rather shallow tub, will be required for 
 the wort to run into. This should be capable of holding 
 twenty gallons, or more. 
 
 Several large shallow tubs, cither round or oval, or square 
 
646 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 trays, will be wanted as coolers. Some people have large 
 square trays fitted on a frame with legs, and moving on castors, 
 in order that they may be wheeled under cover in case of rain. 
 
 A mash-stirrer is a stick somewhat longer and thicker 
 than a biOomstick: at the lower end it is perforated by two 
 or three small sticks, eight or ten inches long, and fitted into 
 a frame, so forming a kind of latticed shovel. Several other 
 sticks will be required in the course of the brewing to bear 
 up the sacks with winch the wort is to be covered, and the 
 sieve through which it is to be strained; or what is perhaps 
 rather safer, a frame of two long flat sticks, with two or three 
 shorter cross ones, resembling the spars of a ladder, the 
 whole of sufficient strength to bear the weight intended to be 
 laid on it. One of these should be of the size to fit the 
 mash-tub, and another to fit the tub into which the beer is to 
 be strained off after boiling. 
 
 A wooden howl or piggin will be required for dipping the 
 liquor to the copper, and from one tub to another. 
 
 A bucket or two, which should not be over large or heavy, 
 especially if the brewing is to be performed by women. 
 
 A tunbowl, or large funnel, is either a round wooden howl, 
 or a small tub with a hole in the bottom, in which is affixed 
 a tin tube of a size to fit the bung-hole of a barrel. A hair 
 sieve or wicker basket will be necessary to strain off the beer 
 from the hops. 
 
 As to barrels.—If beer is made in large quantities, 
 and intended to be kept several years, large casks aie 
 preferable ; some people prefer the upright or hell shape, 
 and others the barrel shape. For constant family use kilder¬ 
 kins and barrels (or those which contain eighteen or thirty-six 
 gallons) are the most convenient sizes. In very small families 
 firkins (or casks of nine gallons) are sometimes used, and to 
 avoid having a cask of moderate beer too long in tap, they 
 may he preferable; but in general such small casks are not to 
 be preferred, as the beer does not attain so great a strength 
 as when kept in a larger body together. As to the number 
 of casks required, it depends on the length of time the beer 
 is to he kept. Some people choose to keep a very large stock 
 of beer to a great age; hut for general family drinking, beer 
 
HOME BREWED BEER, &c. 
 
 641 
 
 is perhaps never better, or more wholesome, than from three to 
 twelvemonths old. Most families brew twice or thrice a year, 
 and use one brewing under another; that is, consider the begin¬ 
 ning to use the last brewing as a signal for brewing again; in 
 that case the casks required are obviously twice the number 
 required for each brewing. 
 
 With respect to the ingredients.—It is of great impor 
 tance that these be the best of their kind ; if not it is impos¬ 
 sible to obtain from them good, sound, and keeping beer. 
 When malt is good, the shell is thin and well filled with flour, 
 and the grain may be easily bitten asunder. If it bites hard 
 and steely the malt is bad. 
 
 Pale malt is quite as good as brown; the difference arises 
 only from different degrees of heat employed in drying. As 
 to the colour it is a mere matter of fancy. Malt should be 
 ground two or three days before using: it should not be 
 ground too fine, otherwise the dust is apt to work into the 
 basket and render the liquor thick. 
 
 Hops should be of a clear lively colour, between yellow and 
 green. They should be free from long stalks and not clotted 
 together. If they are so, it is to be concluded that they 
 were not properly dried at first, or have been since suffered to 
 become damp: in either case they are injured; they should 
 feel clammy, smell brisk and pleasant, and have much of the 
 yellow farina or dust. 
 
 Water should be soft and clear. Rain water, if quite 
 fresh and clean, is the best for brewing ; next to that the 
 water of a river, brook, or other running stream. Spring 
 water is generally hard, and would not draw out the goodness 
 of the malt; and pond water is stagnant, and would make the 
 beer flat; for these reasons they are not fit for brewing. If, 
 however, no soft water can be procured, spring water may be 
 softened by putting in it some lumps of chalk, and exposing it 
 to the sun and air a day or two before brewing; or by boiling 
 with the water intended for mashing a quantity of wheaten 
 bran. In this case also a longer time must be allowed for 
 the mashing, or steeping the malt ir. water. River water 
 should net be used in the summer months, when weeds and 
 
648 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 other offensive vegetable matter are seen floating down the 
 etream. 
 
 The yeast must be sweet and fresh, otherwise it will cause 
 the new beer to become sour. 
 
 As to the season for brewing, the extremes both of heat 
 and cold are to be equally avoided. In frosty weather the 
 beer chills and wdl not work kindly ‘ in hot weathei it is 
 apt to acquire an unpleasant taste, called foxey, and also 
 soon turns sour. If the weather is not exactly of the tem¬ 
 perature that might be wished, the difficulty must be met 
 by contrivance; in warm weather admitting a little air in 
 the place where the beer is working, and in winter keeping 
 the door close shut, and covering the tubs with sacks, &c. to 
 keep the beer warm. Settled weather for brewing is always 
 desirable, in order to admit of the beer being cooled out ot 
 doors; but this will not do in catching weather, as rain is 
 very injurious. For this purpose a covered gateway is very 
 advantageous, as admitting a thorough draft of air by which 
 the beer is cooled quickly, and combining therewith the ad¬ 
 vantage of shelter. IVIarch and October are the favouiite 
 months for brewing; but this rule must not be implicitly fol¬ 
 lowed. The weather to be preferred is cool, but not frosty, 
 and a brisk air, yet not a high wind, which might fill the beei 
 with dust, leaves, or other light rubbish. 
 
 If two brewings only are to be performed in the year, one 
 should be considerably larger than the other, viz. that in Oc¬ 
 tober, when a sufficient quantity should be brewed to serve 
 till May; the other in March or April should be no more 
 than sufficient to serve till that of the following October be¬ 
 comes fit for drinking. Beer well brewed in October will 
 keep the year round, better than beer brewed in spring, when 
 the weather begins to be warm, will keep through the summer. 
 The cellar for keeping beer should be cool, dry, and so con¬ 
 trived as to exclude the external air as much as possible; an 
 arched cellar is very desirable, as it more effectually excludes 
 all variations of the atmosphere which would produce corres¬ 
 ponding changes in the beer. 
 
 Great attention is requisite as to the state of the casks; 
 
HOlV/fi BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 649 
 
 for if they be not perfectly sweet they will spoil the best brewei 
 beer; when nyv they require seasoning, that io, being re- 
 peatedly scalded, and to have fresh grains, or bran, shaken about 
 them with boiling water : after which they must be thoroughly 
 rinsed in cold water, then again scalded and made perfectly 
 dry, first by turning the bung-hole downwards over a tub or 
 frame, and afterwards setting them in the influence of the fire, till 
 not a particle of moisture remains ; this should be done imme¬ 
 diately before filling them. Casks that have been used should 
 not be washed until the time of using again, but as soon as 
 empty, corked, bunged, and pegged close, so that no air mav 
 get into them. If this be neglected but a few days the 
 casks will be spoiled, and all beer that is afterwards put in 
 them. The day before brewing, these casks are to be brought 
 out, well scrubbed outside, emptied of the lees, filled with 
 cold water and a handful or two of clean gravel stones, or a 
 piece of chain, which is to be well shaken about, until all scum 
 and dirt is removed. This may be ascertained by slipping 
 the finger round within the bung hole ; if any greasy slimy 
 feel remains, more friction is required to remove it. The 
 clearing should be perfectly effected with cold water, after 
 which they are to be well scalded (as will be directed in the 
 operations of the brewing day) and dried as above. It will 
 be necessary occasionally to take out the heads and give the 
 casks a thorough scrub inside; this is cooper’s work; but if 
 regularly kept, and cleaned according to the above directions, 
 it will not be necessary to have recourse to it oftener than 
 after using three or four times. 
 
 All the brewing utensils are better put away with the re¬ 
 mains of the beer hanging about them, and when brewing 
 is about to be performed, filled with cold w'ater, to ascertain 
 that they do not run out ; then well scrubbed, and dried with 
 a clean coarse cloth, and set in their respective places for use 
 on the following day. 
 
 There is no department in domestic life where punctuality 
 and order are unnecessary, but they are no where more essen ¬ 
 tial than in the operations of the brewery. If every article 
 be not at hand for use the moment it is wanted, the beer will 
 probably boil over, or the brewer be made an hour or two latei 
 
 a 28 4 o 
 
65 ) 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 in finishing the day’s work. In the process of brewing there 
 are certain limes when the brewer may be spared a quarter of 
 an hour without hindering the business; these opportunities 
 should be taken for getting food, fetching in fuel or water, 
 cleaning the casks, clearing away litter, and sweeping down 
 the brewliouse, which ought to be done several times in the 
 course of the day. If these intervals are not noticed and in- 
 proved, and the time taken for them when the brewer ought 
 to be filling or emptying the copper, or letting off the wort, 
 much inconvenience will arise, and the work be about at un¬ 
 seasonable hours, instead of being finished, as it ought to be, 
 by daylight. 
 
 Having thus minutely detailed the preparatory operations, 
 we come now to speak of those on the brewing day. The 
 copper we have supposed to contain forty gallons, and the 
 mash-tub nearly or quite 100 : we will suppose the quantity 
 of beer required, to be six kilderkins of good, moderate beer; 
 this quantity will be produced from six bushels of malt; but 
 it may be made of any strength, upward, to four times that 
 quantity. In the latter case, as the malt will occupy so much 
 room in the mash-tub, the mashing must be performed at 
 three different times, or a larger mash-tub used; but on the 
 former scale two mashings will suffice, and much time be thereby 
 saved. To each bushel of malt one pound of hops should be 
 allowed; rather less may suffice if for immediate drinking, 
 but if kept to any age this proportion does not at all exceed. 
 
 From the time of mashing to the completion of the brewing 
 twelve hours will be occupied ; the brewer should therefore 
 so arrange for the former operation, as to secure the conclusion 
 by daylight. With this view some people fill the copper 
 overnight, light the fire, and fill the copper furnace with small 
 coal: by this means the copper boils in the morning, and the 
 first job is to empty it into the mash»tub,* and fill, or half fill 
 it again; whether or not this plan is adopted, the first object 
 is to get eighty, or eighty-five gallons of water boiled and 
 put in the mash-tub as early as possible. This must stand 
 
 * Common sense will dictate that the mash-tub should be placed as 
 near the copper as it conveniently can, to lighten the labour of shifting 
 ilo liquor from one to the other. 
 
HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 651 
 
 awhile to become somewhat cool before the malt is added to it. 
 Some brewers do not boil the water, but merely bring it to a 
 proper degree of heat. Whether or not this may answer, we 
 are not disposed to contend ; but from long experience we pre¬ 
 fer the method of perfectly boiling the water, and then reducing 
 the heat to the proper standard. Some people make use of 
 a thermometer by which to regulate the heat; to those who 
 do so it would be unnecessary to state the degree suitable for 
 mashing. Plain folks will, in all probability, adhere to the 
 good old fashioned standard of mashing, when the steam has 
 so far passed off as that the water reflects your shadow, and 
 when the finger may be drawn quickly through without scald¬ 
 ing. The malt is then to be put in and well stirred about 
 till the clots are perfectly separated. If any clots are suffered 
 to remain, the malt within will continue dry, and its quotum of 
 strength consequently be lost. When the water and malt are 
 thoroughly blended, the steam must be kept in by means of 
 sacks (or something equally thick) laid over the top and sup* 
 ported by sticks, or by the frame above described. 
 
 The mash having taken a copper and a half of water, dur¬ 
 ing the few minutes leisure occasioned by waiting for the heat 
 to abate, the remaining half copper should have been used for 
 scalding the casks, and the copper filled up again for the second 
 mash. Each cask should be half filled with boiling water, 
 and left closely bunged for half an hour or so: then well 
 shaken about, emptied, and set to dry, either in the sun or in 
 the influence of a fire. When the second copper boils, it 
 may be emptied into any spare tubs, and the copper once more 
 filled up. It is for this purpose, among others, that a second 
 mash tub is particularly handy. 
 
 By the time this copper boils three hours will have elapsed 
 b^ice the mashing, at which time the wort is to be let off. 
 The underbach stands ready to receive it, but before the 
 spigot is fully removed, a little should be caught in a bucket 
 until it runs perfectly clear; this may be thrown at top in the 
 same manner as clearing coffee, and the remainder suffered to 
 run freely, only taking care that it does not run over. The 
 hops should be broken into the underbach and the wort suf¬ 
 fered tc run upon and soak them. It may be as well to 
 
G52 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 keep back about a pound of the hops to put fresh in the 
 second boil. The copper is now to be emptied, like the other, 
 into some of the spare tubs, and as quickly as possible filled 
 up with wort and hops from the underbach. On every occa¬ 
 sion of emptying the copper, care must be taken to have a 
 slow fire and the copper door set open. Some people entirely 
 put out the fire, but this is both a waste of fuel and a loss of 
 time. The purpose, (that of avoiding to burn the copper) is 
 just as well answered by filling up the copper hole with cin¬ 
 ders, small coal, or even ashes well wetted. While the door 
 is open, these will not draw up, but when the copper is filled, 
 the dust raked out, and the door shut, it will burn all the 
 fiercer for being wetted. Observe also that the copper, when 
 emptied of water, must be wiped dry with a coarse clean cloth 
 before the beer is put up. A brisk fire is now to he kept up 
 that the beer may boil as soon as possible. The spigot 
 is now to be put in securely, and water thrown up from the 
 other tubs for the second mash. 
 
 From what remains in the underbach, when the first mash 
 has done running, a judgment will be formed how much it may 
 be necessary to put up. If half a copper of the first wort is 
 left, the mash tub may be filled to the same height as before; 
 if less of the first wort remains, the tub must be now filled 
 proportionably higher. As the object is to secure thrice 
 filling of the copper, and some malt sucks up much more in 
 passing through than other, the difference must be met in 
 this manner. This second mash is to be well stirred and 
 covered up as before. 
 
 T he attention of the brewer will now be divided between 
 the copper and the coolers. From the latter any water re¬ 
 maining is now to be emptied out, and each wiped thoroughly 
 dry, and conveniently placed for the purpose of cooling ; on the 
 largest may be placed the hair sieve or wicker basket, lodged 
 on sticks or frame, in readiness for straining the beer; but 
 while these operations are going on, the copper must not be 
 forgotten, as it sometimes boils up suddenly, and great waste 
 is occasioned. The lid may remain on till it is just upon the 
 boil, but it will be safe then to remove it and break the hops, 
 and keep them down with the mash-stirrer. If inclined to 
 
HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 653 
 
 boil over, the copper door may be set open, and a little small 
 coal, cinders, or wet sawdust thrown in, to damp the fire ; but 
 when the danger of boiling over abates, the door must be 
 shut directly, as it is desirable to keep up as brisk a boil as 
 possible without boiling over. This is to be continued for at 
 least an hour and a half; if two hours all the better. When 
 this time has expired, the fire may be suffered to go low, the 
 door be set open, and the copper emptied; the liquor being 
 strained off into one or more of the coolers. The remainder 
 of the first wort is immediately to be thrown up, and the 
 second mash let off, until as much has run as will complete th* 
 filling of the copper, with the remainder of the best hops, and 
 those in the sieve, when the liquor is drained from them. 
 While the copper is heating, the brewer’s first employment 
 will be in separating the beer, into as many tubs and pans as 
 can be spared; the quicker it is cooled the better. The mash- 
 tub may now be stooped forward, and after leaving it a few 
 minutes to settle, set running off, for filling the third copper. 
 When the wort begins to run slowly, the grains should be 
 well pressed, that as little as possible of the liquor may be 
 wasted: for this purpose nothing answers better than an old 
 churn stick. Before the second wort has boiled an hour and 
 a half, the first will be cool enough to put together. The 
 best vessel for this purpose is the second sized mash-tub. 
 A quart or two of this best beer should be kept out, and 
 mixed in a clean pan, or large basin, or bowl, with a quart of 
 good new yeast. In a little time this will work to the top. 
 If the beer in the tub is sufficiently cool, this may be added 
 to it, and well mixed, by emptying into it the basin or bowl, 
 then dipping it up, and pouring back several times, after which 
 it is to be covered up with sacks and left. The proper cool - 
 ness of beer for working is cold without chill. It should not 
 be as cold as water fresh drawn from a pump, but as water 
 that has stood in-doors a few hours in summer time. Much 
 beer is spoiled by working, or attempting to work it warmer 
 than this. 
 
 The second wort will now have boiled its time, and must 
 be strained and separated in the same manner as the former, 
 and the copper again filled with the remaining wort. While 
 
654 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 that is boiling up, the mash-tub may be cleared out. The 
 grains are valuable as food for pigs, and those who do not 
 keep pigs will always find neighbours who do, glad to fetch 
 them away, and give sixpence or sevenpence a bushel for them. 
 The basket bottle when removed from the mash-tub is to be 
 dipped into the boiling copper, shaken out and hung up to 
 dry. The mash-tub, when emptied of the grains, must be well 
 wiped out, and put in a convenient place for working the re¬ 
 maining wort. The second boiling, being sufficiently cool, 
 may be put together in the mash-tub, and leave the coolers 
 free for the reception of the third. From an hour to an hour 
 and a half will be sufficient for the third boiling. 
 
 When the copper is emptied the last time, a pailful or two of 
 water must be thrown up to preserve it from burning, and the 
 fire taken out. Having strained off and separated the third 
 beer, while it cools the brewer will scour out the copper, clear 
 out the copper hole, and clean the brewhouse. The hops 
 are useless and may be thrown away, unless it be desired to 
 tap some of the beer very early ; in that case a handful or two 
 of the spent hops may be saved to put in one cask, which 
 helps to clear the beer. If the casks are perfectly dry, they 
 may now be fitted with bungs and ventpegs, and placed in the 
 cellar ready for the reception of the beer. 
 
 By this time the last boiling will be cool and the first will 
 have risen finely, that is, it will be covered with a thick scum 
 or yeast. Three or four bowls full of this scum may be con¬ 
 veyed to the mash-tub in which the second boiling is put, 
 and the third boiling added to it. Both vessels are to be 
 covered up as before, and the door kept shut. As to the time 
 of tunning, or putting the beer into the casks, some people tun 
 much earlier; but it is better to let it remain working in the 
 tubs at least two days ; much waste is thus prevented and some 
 trouble saved. When this is to be performed the casks are 
 to be set leaning a little to one side, and the tunbowl placed 
 in the bung-hole of one barrel, and pans placed under to catch 
 what beer runs off. The mash-tubs are to be uncovered, and 
 the yeast removed, which may be done in one of two ways, 
 cither by applying the spigot and faucet, and drawing off 
 the beer, when the yeast will remain behind; or by taking 
 
HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 655 
 
 off the yeast with a large flat skimming disli or ladle. In the 
 latter case, after standing a few hours, some beer will settle 
 from the yeast, which should be preserved and tunned with 
 the rest. 
 
 If the beer is to be of different degrees of strength, the 
 worts must be tunned separately; the first wort will fill one 
 barrel or two kilderkins, and the second, four kilderkins ; or 
 one kilderkin may be made of tl e best, and the remainder of 
 it divided among the other five; not in exact proportions, but 
 allowing an additional pail full of strong to each, reversing the 
 order of using:—thus; in that which is to be tapped first, 
 there need little or none of the best beer; one bucket in the 
 next, two in the third, three in the fourth, and four in that 
 which is to be kept longest, or somewhat in this proportion. 
 They are all to be filled up from the second wort, of which a 
 bucket or two should remain for filling up, which ought to be 
 done daily for a fortnight; if no beer remains for that purpose, 
 the barrel first in order must be tapped, and this error in cal¬ 
 culation borne in mind, and corrected in the next brewing. 
 The yeast which rises at the bung-holes, as well as that which 
 was taken from the tubs, may be disposed of to the bakers, 
 the beer remaining in the pans, and what settles under the 
 yeast to be used daily in filling up. When the head of the 
 yeast begins to fall, a piece of thick brown paper may be laid 
 over the bung-hole, or the bungs laid lightly on, and in a few 
 days hammered down tightly, with a piece of coarse linen cloth 
 round each, and a bag of sand well pressed down over it; the 
 ventpegs also must be tight. If the beer should ferment 
 the pegs may be loosened a little, and afterwards fastened 
 down. When once a barrel is tapped, it is a very bad way 
 to remove the ventpeg at all, though it is often practised to 
 make the beer run freely ; it however surely makes the beer 
 flat if the cask is long in tap, and often sour also. It is 
 therefore desirable as much as possible to avoid it. 
 
 When the barrel wants stooping, it should be done while 
 the beer is running, by which means it is prevented from be¬ 
 coming thick. 
 
 The above directions are confined to the simple domestic 
 practice of brewing beer from malt and hops only. Any addi« 
 
f>50 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 tion to these original constituents of the Englishman s beverage, 
 we consider as a violation of the integrity of home brewed 
 beer.” Good home brewed beer will fine itself, and keep as 
 long as it is desirable to keep it, we have therefore considered 
 it unnecessary to give directions for fining or restoring. For 
 fining in a hurry, a handful or two of hops boiled and dried 
 (as already observed) answers every purpose. Malt liquor 
 may be prevented from becoming sour by adding four pounds 
 of toasted bread to each hogshead. If old strong beer be¬ 
 comes hard, it may be recovered, by mixing with an equal 
 quantity of new beer, and hopping down as above; or it is a 
 ve ry good way to mix an equal weight of honey and fine 
 whitening in powder (two pounds of each to twenty gallons of 
 beer) with a small quantity of the beer; then stir the mixture 
 into the cask, leaving the bung out a few hours until the fer¬ 
 mentation has subsided. If the beer be very sharp, the fer¬ 
 mentation or effervescence will be proportionably great, and 
 there may be some danger of working over. In that case it 
 may be as well to have the barrel tapped, and draw off what is 
 required, which may be put in again in an hour or two when 
 the effervescence is over. Or a little carbonate of soda may 
 be mixed with each jug full of the beer when drawn; but in 
 this case it must not be drawn till just as it is about to be used, 
 otherwise it will become dead. Ropy beer, (or that which by 
 thundery weather acquires an oily, glutinous appearance, and a 
 very unpleasant slimy feel in the mouth,) may be cleared by 
 throwing a bunch of hyssop in at the bung-hole. Isinglass is 
 often used for fining beer; it must be boiled in beer till dis¬ 
 solved, and when quite cold well-stirred into the cask; but 
 the objection to this fining is, that, unless the beer be speedily 
 used, it renders it flat. 
 
 Another method is, to boil a pint of wheat in two quarts 
 of water, and squeeze the liquid through a linen cloth. A 
 pint of this will be sufficient for a kilderkin of ale, and will 
 both fine and preserve it. Or, mix in a pint of water half an 
 ounce of unslaked lime, let it stand three hours, then pour off 
 the clear liquor, and add to it half an ounce of isinglass cut 
 small and boiled in a little water; pour this into the barrel, 
 and, in five or six hours, the beer will be fine enough to drink 
 
HOME BREWED BEER. &C. 
 
 657 
 
 As beer is very liable to be affected by thunder and stormy 
 weather, it should be examined ; and if, on drawing the vent- 
 peg, it appears to fret, the bung should be raised, and left so 
 till the liquor is at rest. Beer that is kept a considerable time 
 will sometimes drink hard and stale, owing to the sediment at 
 the bottom of the cask; or its having lain too long in the 
 working tub. To remedy this flatness, take a quart of brandy, 
 and put as much wheaten or bran flour to it as will make a 
 lump of dough; roll this into long pieces, and let them fall 
 gently through the bung-hole. This will both keep the beer 
 in a mellow state, and increase its strength. Or, you may 
 add a pound of the powder of dried oyster shells, or soft chalk, 
 to the same quantity of treacle. Mix the whole into a paste, 
 and put it into the butt. Another method is, to dry a peck 
 of egg shells in an oven, break and mix them with two pounds 
 of soft chalk; add thereto some water, in which a quantity of 
 coarse sugar has been boiled, and put it into the cask when it 
 has done working. 
 
 To refine Beer, Ale, Wine, or Cider. 
 
 Put two ounces of isinglass shavings to soak, in a quart of 
 the liquor that you want to clear; beat it with a whisk every 
 day till dissolved. Draw off a third part of the cask, and 
 mix the above with it; likewise a quarter of an ounce of pearl- 
 ash, one ounce of salt of tartar, calcined, and one ounce of 
 burnt alum, powdeied. Stir it well, then return the liquor 
 into the cask, and stir it with a clean stick. Stop it up, and 
 in a few days it will be fine. 
 
 Or, put into a fine net about one pound of hops, with a 
 weight to sink it to the bottom of the cask. This will be 
 
 O 
 
 enough for a butt; and, of course, if the cask be smaller, the 
 hops must be in proportion. Tap it in six months; but if 
 wanted sooner, put in some hops that have been boiled a short 
 time, in the first wort, either with or without a net. 
 
 With regard to bottling of malt liquor, care must be taken 
 that the bottles are well cleaned and dried, for if there be any 
 moisture in them the beer will turn mouldy. The corks also 
 must be new and sound, otherwise the ale or beer will be quickly 
 spoiled, for, if the external air intrudes itself, the liquor wil. 
 b 28 4 v 
 
638 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 soon grow flat, or acquire a bad taste. In choosing corks, 
 take those that are spungy and free from specks and grains. 
 By soaking the corks in a little of the liquor to be bottled 
 they are rendered supple, and a larger cork is admitted than 
 could otherwise be used.* 
 
 Observe also, in the bottling of liquor, that the top and 
 middle of the cask are the strongest, and will sooner rise in 
 the bottles than that drawn from the bottom. When you 
 begin to bottle any liquor take care not to leave it till the 
 whole is completed, otherwise it will have different degrees of 
 flavour. If a cask of liquor begins to be flat while in draught, 
 draw it off into bottles, and put into each a piece of lump 
 sugar, about the size of a walnut, which will make the beer 
 rise; a tea-spoonful of rice will have the same effect. To 
 hasten the ripening, you may set some bottles in hay in 
 warm place, but straw will not produce that effect. 
 
 To make Welch Ale. 
 
 Pour forty-two gallons of hot water, but not quite boiling, 
 upon eight bushels of malt; cover, and let it stand three 
 hours. Meanwhile, infuse four pounds of hops in a little 
 water, and put the same into the tub, run the wort upon them, 
 and boil them three hours. Strain off the hops, and keep 
 them for the small beer. Let the wort stand in a high tub 
 till cool enough for the yeast, of which, whether of ale or that 
 of small beer, put in two quarts. Mix the whole thoroughly 
 and stir it often. When the wort has *done fermenting, 
 which will be about the second or third day, the yeast will 
 sink rather than rise; and must be removed immediately, and 
 the ale tunned as fast as it works out. Pour a quart in at a 
 time, but gently, to prevent the fermentation from continuing 
 too long. Lay some paper over the bung-hole two or three 
 days previous to stopping it up. 
 
 * A machine is used for corking bottles, which is very advantageous : the 
 bottle is held in a kind of vice, and the cork by pressure forced in mucfc 
 more closely than by any other method. 
 
HOME BREWED BEER, &C 
 
 (55y 
 
 Windsor Ale. 
 
 tor a good irritation of Windsor ale, take of the best pale 
 malt a bushel; of the finest bops, that have been soaked all 
 night in cold water, a pound; of clarified honey and sugar, 
 each a pound ; of liquorice root, well cut and bruised, a quar¬ 
 ter of a pound ; of grains of paradise, ground, half an ounce; 
 of orange-peel a quarter of an ounce, and of coriander seed, 
 cinnamon, and angelica root, each a drachm. Brew the 
 whole, in the common way, with three mashings, using bran 
 flour instead of that of grain, and a little salt in the cleansing. 
 
 <9 
 
 Cheap Beer. 
 
 1 he following recipe is adopted in many families, and con¬ 
 sidered equal to any beer for present drinking. 
 
 I o make a kilderkin.—Six pounds of moist sugar, one 
 pound and a half of hops, half a gallon of bran; to be boiled 
 an hour and a half, in eighteen gallons of water. Tun it 
 from the copper: when cold, stop it down ; it will be fit to 
 drink in a week. 
 
 Another way.—To make six gallons of beer, put seven gal¬ 
 lons of water ; put in one ounce and a half of bruised ginger, 
 six ounces of best hops; boil them together for three quar¬ 
 ters of an hour in rain water; then add four pounds of coarse 
 sugar; boil altogether for a quarter of an hour, put in two 
 table-spoonfuls of salt while boiling: when cold as milk 
 set it working, and tun next morning, and drink it next day. 
 
 Carrot Ale. 
 
 Take of water twelve gallons, carrots twenty-four pounds, 
 treacle four pounds, bran two pounds, dried buck-bean four 
 ounces, and yeast a quarter of a pint. Cut the carrots into 
 thin slices, boil them in the water for an hour, (making up 
 the waste in boiling by the addition of a little water,) strain it, 
 mash up the bran with the carrot water, stir it well to prevent 
 its clotting, add the treacle, let it stand for half an hour, 
 strain and boil the strained liquor for a quarter of an hou~ 
 with the buckbean. Finally strain it, and set aside to cool 
 when of a sufficient temperature add the yeast, and tun as 
 
060 
 
 HOME BREWED BEER, &C. 
 
 you would malt beer. This will be found an agreeable and 
 cheap beverage. The cost of the above quantity will be 
 about 35 . 6d. 
 
 Treacle Beer. 
 
 Boil, for twenty minutes, three pounds of molasses, in from 
 six to eight gallons of soft water, and a handful of hops tied m 
 a muslin rag. When cooled in the tub, add a pint of good 
 beer-yeast, or from four to six quarts of fresh worts from the 
 brewer’s vat. Cover the beer, (and all fermenting liquids,) 
 with blankets or coarse cloths. Pour it from the lees and 
 bottle it. 
 
 Another way.—-To two quarts of boiling water add one 
 pound of treacle, or molasses, stir these together till they are 
 well mixed, then put in six or eight quarts of cold water, and 
 a tea-cupful of yeast. Put the whole into a clean cask, cover 
 it with a coarse cloth two or three times double, and in two 
 or three days it will be fit for use. It may be also bottled, 
 and the second or third time of making, the bottom of the 
 first beer will serve for yeast. If made in a large quantity, 
 or intended for keeping, a handful of hops and another of 
 malt should be put in, for it to feed on; and when done, it 
 is to be stopped up close. 
 
 Another way.—To eight quarts of boiling water put one 
 pound of treacle, a quarter of an ounce of ginger, and two bay 
 leaves. Boil the whole for a quarter of an hour, then cool, 
 and work it with yeast in the same way as other beer. A little 
 yeast spread on a piece of toast, and put into the liquid be¬ 
 fore it is cold, will excite a fermentation; and when it has 
 done working, it may be bottled or barrelled, according to the 
 quantity required for immediate use. If wanted to keep, a 
 small bit of gentian root, with or without a little lemon or 
 orange-peel, may be boiled in the liquor, which will give it an 
 agreeable taste. 
 
 China Ale. 
 
 To six gallons of ale made of malt, add a quarter of a 
 pound of China root, thinly sliced, and the same quantity of 
 coriander seeds bruised; hang these in a tiffany or coarse 
 
WHITE SPRUCE BEER. 
 
 66 i 
 
 linen bap in the vessel till it has done working, and let it 
 stanu a fortnight before it is bottled. 
 
 To preserve Yeast. 
 
 When you have plenty of yeast, begin to save it in the 
 following manner; whisk it until it becomes thin, then take 
 a new large wooden dish, wash it very nicely, and when quite 
 dry, lay a layer of yeast over the inside with a soft brush; 
 let it dry, then put another layer in the same manner, and so 
 do until you have a sufficient quantity, observing that each 
 coat dry thoroughly before another be added. It may be put 
 on two or three inches thick, and will keep several months; 
 when to be used, cut a piece out; stir it in warm water. 
 
 If to be used for brewing, keep it by dipping large hand¬ 
 fuls of birch tied together; and when dry, repeat the dipping 
 once. You may thus do as many as you please; but take 
 care that no dust comes to them, or the vessel in which it has 
 been prepared as before. When the wort is set to work, 
 throw into it one of these bunches, and it will do as well as 
 with fresh yeast; but if mixed with a small quantity first, and 
 then added to the whole, it will work sooner. 
 
 White Spruce Beer. 
 
 To five gallons of water put seven pounds of loaf-sugar, 
 and three-fourths of a pound of the essence of spruce. Boil 
 and skim this. Put it into a vessel, and when nearly cool, 
 add fresh yeast, (about a half pint or less.) When the beer 
 has fermented for three days, bung the cask, and in a week 
 bottle it off. 
 
 Another way.—Pour eight gallons of cold water into a 
 barrel, and then add the same quantity of boiling water, with 
 twelve pounds of molasses, and about half a pound of the es¬ 
 sence of spruce ; on its becoming cooler, put in half a pint of 
 good ale yeast. Stir the whole well, or roll the barrel about, 
 and then leave it with the bung out for two or three days, 
 after which bottle the liquor, and wire the corks for use. If 
 spruce beer is made from the branches or cones, they must 
 be boiled two hours, after which the liquor is to be strained 
 into a barrel, and the molasses and yeast added as already 
 
GINGER BEER. 
 
 directed. Spruce beer should be bottled in stone, ano drank 
 immediately on being opened. 
 
 White spruce beer is thus made.—For a cask of six gal¬ 
 lons, mix a quarter of a pound of the essence of spruce, seven 
 pounds of loaf sugar made into a clarified syrup, and aDou* 
 one gallon and a half of hot water. When sufficiently stirred 
 and incorporated, put it into the cask, and fill it nearly up 
 with cold water; then add about a quarter of a pint of good 
 yeast, shake the vessel well, and let it work three or four 
 days, after which bung it up. In a few days it may be bot¬ 
 tled off, and in about a week more it will be fit for use. To 
 give it transparency, add an ounce of isinglass first dissolved 
 in some of the warm liquor or cider. In proportion to the 
 coldness of the weather, the quantity of yeast should be in¬ 
 creased. In warm weather little ferment is required. 
 
 In case the stone bottles used for spruce or ginger beer, or 
 soda water, should become musty, they may be cured by the 
 following simple method:— 
 
 To cure a musty Bottle. 
 
 Fill it with kennel-dirt and water, let it remain three or four 
 days, and then rinse it with clean water. 
 
 GINGER BEER, VARIOUS WAYS. 
 
 The following is perhaps the most cheap and simple 
 method of making this agreeable summer beverage. 
 
 On one pound of sugar, (either moist or loaf,) two ounces 
 of cream of tartar, and half an ounce of bruised ginger, pour 
 one gallon of boiling water, stir it well; when cold, stir in two 
 table-spoonfuls of fresh thick yeast, and cover it up. Exactly 
 eight hours after setting it to work strain it off, put it into 
 stone bottles and tie them down with strong twine : it will be 
 fit for use in forty-eight hours. If properly managed, the 
 corks and strings will serve many times; the strings should 
 be fastened on the neck of the bottle, with a loop exactly 
 opposite the ends of the string, when corked, one end slipped 
 
GIN<*1?R BFER. 
 
 663 
 
 through fhis loop, and brought back over the cork and tied 
 ill a bow, so that it may easily untie, when the cork will fly 
 out uninjured. The bottles must be soaked in cold water 
 as soon as emptied, and well scalded immediately before using 
 again. The corks also must be scalded. 
 
 Ginger Beer. 
 
 To ig n gallons of water put eight pounds of lump sugar, 
 five ounces of sliced ginger; boil them together one hour, 
 tah.c off the scum as it. rises, let it stand in a vessel till cold; 
 then put it into a barrel with the juice of ten lemons, and some 
 of the peel which must he pared thin :—one table-spoonful of 
 yeast, and stop it down close; let it remain in the barrel a 
 fortnight, then bottle it and tie the corks down, and it will 
 be ready in a fortnight; use stone bottles. 
 
 Another way.—-Two gallons of boiling water, pour on a 
 quarter of a pound of cream of tartar, one ounce of sliced gin¬ 
 ger, two pounds of lump sugar. Let it stand six hours, then 
 add two table-spoonfuls of yeast; let it stand six hours more, 
 strain it through a fine sieve, put it into stone bottles, tie 
 down the corks, and it will be fit for use in twenty-four 
 hours. 
 
 Another way.—To two gallons of water put three pounds 
 of good moist sugar, the whites of two eggs well beaten, and 
 when near boiling take off the scum and put in two ounces 
 of bruised ginger: let it boil half an hour, then pour it boil¬ 
 ing on the rinds of two lemons; when milk-warm stir in a lit¬ 
 tle yeast, and put it in a cask with the pulp of the lemons, 
 cork it next day, and let it stand a fortnight, then strain and 
 bottle it, and it will be fit for use in a few days. 
 
 Another way.—Take four pounds of loaf-sugar, four ounces 
 or more of bruised ginger, and four gallons of water. Boil 
 for a half-hour, and skim this. Slice two lemons or more 
 into a tub, and put to them one ounce of cream of tartar. Pour 
 the hot liquor over this, and when cool add a half pint or 
 rather less of fresh beer yeast. Let this work for three or 
 four days. Strain it off clear from the lees, and add to it, if 
 it is to be kept, a half-pint of brandy. Bottle in a fort¬ 
 night, and wire the corks. 
 
L 664 ] 
 
 BRITISH WINES. 
 
 General Observations. 
 
 The fruit ought to be gathered before it is dead 
 ami in dry and sunny weather, which will greatly im¬ 
 prove the quality and flavour of the wine. All fru't 
 that is unripe or spoiled should be picked out with care, as 
 one ill-flavoured berry will taint the juice of three dozen of 
 good ones. The fruit must be carefully bruised and put 
 into a vat, (or a cask with the end out of it,) to ferment with 
 the water and sugar. The less water the richer will be the 
 wine; and the more the fruit-juice, and the less the sugar 
 employed, the more will the vinous taste and flavour predo¬ 
 minate. Two or three days are generally enough to allow 
 the white wines to ferment in the vat. Red wines require a 
 day or two longer. Fermentation may be hastened by agi¬ 
 tating the liquid, and raising the temperature of the place in 
 which the vat is placed. When the wine has undergone this 
 process it must be cleared by being put into hair-bags, and 
 strained in a wine-press, or through a canvass-bag. Sieves 
 are also used, and are convenient in small families. The 
 casks are then filled till within an inch of the bung-hole, 
 which should be slightly covered over. The casks must be 
 set in a cool place; and now another fermentation comes on, 
 called the spiritous, which will throw off the feculence that re¬ 
 mains in the must, and greatly purify the wine. When this 
 fermentation has abated, the spirits ordered for the wine must 
 be added, and the cask filled up and bunged. In six weeks 
 or more the cask must be pegged, to see if the wine is bright, 
 and if so, it must be carefully racked off from the lees into an¬ 
 other cask. The best method is this :—Bore a hole about 
 half way up the cask, and use a small quill to draw off the 
 purest of the wine. Now, bore a hole a little lower down, 
 and if what is drawn off’ be not so bright as the first drawn, 
 do not mix them. The lees may be filtered. The best qua- 
 ities of home-made wines consist, after all, in colour and 
 
GOOSEBERRY WINE. 
 
 663 
 
 brightness; so that it is of great importance to have them 
 carefully racked. When not perfectly translucent on a first 
 racking, the wine must be racked a second time, and fined. 
 Wine should be bottled in clear weather. The bottles must 
 be new, or at least perfectly clean, and great attention must 
 be paid to the corking. A variety of things are used for per- 
 fuming wines; such as sweet herbs, peach-leaves, sweet bay- 
 leaves, almonds, kernels of fruit, bergamot, sweet herbs, ginger, 
 &c. Brandy will enrich wine, but not, as is commonly supposed, 
 stop the fermentation ; this purpose will be much more effec¬ 
 tually answered, as well as that of keeping wine, bv boiling in 
 the liquor two ounces of hops to every nine gallons of wine : 
 if brandy is added, it ought to be mixed with honey or syrup. 
 Flat wines may be enlivened bv adding raisins bruised, mix- 
 ing first a little spirits with them. The addition of good 
 wine will answer the same purpose. Wine is very apt to fer¬ 
 ment over much ; this may be checked by removing it into a 
 cool place, and making the bung fast, so as to exclude all air. 
 We would recommend, as a certain means of making the first 
 fermentation sure, to commence the process with a quart of 
 the cooled liquor in a small vessel. This may be gradually 
 increased to two or three quarts, and then put to the whole 
 contents of the vat which you wish to ferment. By this 
 means less yeast will do, and the process will be more certain, 
 i his rule is applicable to ginger-beer and every sort of 
 fermented liquor. After fermentation is over, be sure the 
 cask is kept quite full and close bunged. The sooner wine 
 is bottled after it has fined, the more it will sparkle; we do 
 not say it will be the better wine. 
 
 To those who desire a scientific knowledge of the prin- 
 cipl es of wine-making, we would recommend a little treatise 
 on the subject by Mr. Accum ; and as his directions fos 
 making particular wines are given on just principles, we shall, 
 in the first place, present the reader with them, and afterwards 
 with such others as experience or testimony disposes us to 
 consider valuable and worthy of adoption. 
 
 Method of making Gooseberry Wine. 
 
 l ake fifty pounds of immature gooseberries, freed from th« 
 
 •; 28 4 g 
 
GOOSEBERRY WINE. 
 
 6 I'd 
 
 remains of the blossoms and fruit stalks, bruise them in sue* 
 cessive portions in a wooden tub, without much compressing the 
 husks, or bruising the seeds; dilute the mass with four gallons 
 of water, and, after having suffered it to stand for ten or twelve 
 hours, put it into a coarse canvass bag, and squeeze out the 
 liquor. 
 
 Pour upon the residue one gallon of water, suffer it to 
 macerate for twelve hours, and then press it out, and add the 
 product to the before obtained juice. Put the whole of the 
 liquor into a tub, and add to it from thirty to forty pounds 
 of white loaf sugar, according to the desired strength and 
 sweetness of the wine, and one pound of finely pulverized 
 crude super-tartrate of potash. Stir this mixture, and make 
 up the total bulk of the fluid with water, to the amount of 
 ten and a half gallons, cover it with a blanket or sacking, and 
 let it stand in a moderately warm place. 
 
 In a day or two the fluid will begin to ferment, and when 
 the yeasty froth, which appears on the surface, has assumed an 
 uniform texture, skim it off, and repeat the skimming from 
 time to time till no more yeast becomes separated. When 
 the fermentation has so far been completed, draw off the 
 liquor from the dregs, or lees, into a cask which must be com¬ 
 pletely filled with the wine. A small quantity of yeast will 
 still continue to become separated, and overflow the bung- 
 hole, in consequence of the slow fermentation in the cask, and 
 hence the quantity of liquor diminishes; the loss thus sus¬ 
 tained must be made up by adding, from time to time, a por¬ 
 tion of the liquor which was made for that purpose, so as to 
 keep the cask always filled up to the bung-hole. When 
 the fermentation has nearly ceased, the bung may be put 
 loosely into its place; but a small hole must be bored by the 
 side of the bung-hole, and loosely fitted with a peg to give 
 vent for the extrication of the carbonic acid that may become 
 developed. When no further froth appears, the ventpeg 
 must be withdrawn, the spile may then be tightened, and the 
 cask left undisturbed for five or six months; after which time 
 the wine should be drawn off from its lees into another cask; 
 and if it is not fine, it may be rendered so by the addition 
 of a small quantity of isinglass dissolved in water, which will 
 
GOOSEBERRY WINE. 
 
 667 
 
 render it clear in a few days; after which it may be bottled 
 and stored in a cool cellar. 
 
 Should the wine be too sweet, the fermentation, (before it 
 is drawn off from its lees,) may be re-excited by stirring up 
 the contents of the cask, and suffering it to repose in a warm 
 place. By this means an additional portion of the un-decom- 
 posed sugar which it contains will disappear. The wines 
 may then be decanted. Sometimes it is requisite to decant 
 it a second time into a clean cask, after it has been suffered 
 to stand two months. In any case it must be bottled during 
 the month of March, provided that the wine has become per¬ 
 fectly dear; if not, some mistake has been committed in the 
 manufacture of it. 
 
 Wine from mature Gooseberries or Currants. 
 
 Wine from ripe gooseberries may be made in a similar man¬ 
 ner to what has been just stated. But the produce of the 
 ripe fruit is always ill-flavoured, nor can it be rendered palat¬ 
 able, unless, perhaps, by a most careful exclusion of the husks 
 and seeds. The wine obtainable from ripe gooseberries, or 
 currants, may be made either sweet or dry. The rules im¬ 
 mediately preceding, which relate to the management of the 
 fermentation and raking of the wine, require equally to be at¬ 
 tended to in this case. If the wine be intended to be sweet, 
 the quantity of fruit should not exceed forty pounds • if dry 
 wine is desired, it may extend to sixty pounds, the proportion 
 of sugar being thirty pounds. If a much stronger wine of 
 either quality is desired, the quantity of sugar may be extended 
 to forty pounds. 
 
 Brisk Gooseberry Wine. 
 
 Let forty pounds of unripe gooseberries be mashed, and 
 having poured upon the mass one gallon of water, squeeze 
 out the juice, add to it twelve pounds of lump sugar, and six 
 ounces of super-tartrate of potash, previously reduced to a 
 fine powder; suffer the liquor to ferment in a tub for about 
 two days only, and then transfer it into a cask, and attend to 
 the process of replenishing the waste liquor by filling up the 
 cask from time to time, till the fermentation has so far sub- 
 
CURRANT WINE. 
 
 ct;s 
 
 sided, that the hissing noise which is heard at the bung-hole 
 is but slightly perceptible. The bung of the cask may then 
 be fastened down, and also the spile, and the cask left undis¬ 
 turbed in a cool cellar, till the month of November, at which 
 time the clear liquor should be raked off into a cask and 
 bottled. 
 
 Another method is the following :—Bruise unripe goose¬ 
 berries, and let them stand twelve hours, squeeze out the 
 j-uice, and having strained it through a sieve to separate the 
 seeds, measure its volume, and add to every three pints of the 
 liquor one pound and a half of loaf sugar; suffer it to ferment, 
 and when perfectly bright, which will be in about three 
 months, bottle it off. Or bruise the gooseberries, and add 
 to every gallon of the bruised berries one gallon of water, stir 
 this mixture, and after having stood about twelve hours, strain 
 the mass through a coarse cloth, or hair sieve. Add to every 
 gallon of the juice, four pounds of loaf sugar, put the liquor 
 into a cask, and suffer it to ferment. When the fermenta¬ 
 tion has nearly ceased, draw off the liquor from the sediment, 
 rinse out the cask, and to every gallon of the fluid and halt 
 a pound of sugar, put it again into the cask ; bung it up for 
 about six weeks, after which time it will be fit for bottling. 
 The husk of the gooseberry, or the whole of the marc, as well 
 as the juice, may be fermented together in the vat along with 
 the sugar in the first stage of the process. The fermentation 
 will thus be more rapid and the wine prove stronger and less 
 sweet, but it will acquire more flavour. 
 
 Brisk Currant Wine. 
 
 Let the currants be gathered when they have nearly at¬ 
 tained their full growth, but before they have shewn much 
 tendency to ripen; separate the berries from the stalks, mash 
 the fruit, and let all the preliminary processes for obtaining 
 the juice be conducted precisely in the same manner as de¬ 
 scribed in the method for making brisk gooseberry wine; add 
 the same proportion of sugar and super-tartrate of potash. 
 The fermentation and further treatment of the wine should 
 also be similar to what has been stated under the head Brisk 
 Gooseberry Wine, p. 667. 
 
GRAPE WINE. 
 
 6fi9 
 
 Brisk Grape Wine. 
 
 As no bad flavour is communicated by tbp fmck, r>r o^« n 
 by the stems of the grape, this fruit mav he satelv taken m 
 any stage of ripeness in which it is most conveniently ob¬ 
 tained, nor is it necessary to attend to the selection of ai.v 
 particular variety of the grape. Bruise the grapes into a pulp 
 with a wooden pestle, or thick flat piece of board fastened to 
 the end of a staff' taking care to bruise the stones as little as 
 possible. 1 he proportions of sugar to be employed and the 
 treatment, are precisely similar to those laid down for the 
 fabrication of gooseberry wine. It may only be added, that 
 the husks may be fermented in the cask with the fluid, since 
 the grape skins give no bad properties, and since the stems, 
 during the period of immaturity, have not acquired any offen¬ 
 sive astringency, while they add, at the same time, to the 
 quantity of the vegetable extract, or glutinous matter, which 
 is essential to the constitution of the wine. The fruit-mill 
 and press is very convenient for bruising this as well as all 
 other kinds of fruit calculated for home-made wines. 
 
 Br isk Wine from the Leaves and Tendrils of the Vine. 
 
 An excellent brisk wine may be made from the leaves and 
 tendrils of the vine. The leaves are best when young, at 
 farthest they should not have attained their full growth, and 
 they should be plucked with their stems. To make ten gal¬ 
 lons of wine, Dr. Macculloch directs to pour seven or eight 
 gallons of boiling water upon forty or fifty pounds of the leaves 
 into a tub of sufficient capacity, and to suffer the leaves 
 to macerate for twenty-four hours. The liquor being poured 
 off, the leaves must be submitted to a press of considerable 
 power, and being subsequently washed with an additional gal¬ 
 lon of water, they must again be pressed. The quantity of 
 -ugar to be employed may vary as in the former recipes from 
 twenty-five to thirty pounds, and the quantity being made 
 up to ten gallons and a half, the process recommended for 
 making gooseberry wine is to be followed. 
 
670 
 
 ELDERBERRY WINE. 
 
 Black Currant Wine. 
 
 Take black currants when they begin to turn ripe, strip the 
 berries from the stalks, mash them in a wooden tub; let the 
 mass stand twenty-four hours, and press the juice through a 
 coarse bag or sieve. Pour upon the mass a small portion of 
 water, let it stand in a tub for twelve hours, and having 
 squeezed out the liquor, add it to the before-obtained juice. 
 To one gallon of the diluted juice, add from four to five 
 pounds of loaf sugar, (three pounds of sugar is the smallest 
 quantity that should be added to every gallon of the diluted 
 juice,) and put the mixture into a cask, which it should com¬ 
 pletely fill. Suffer the fluid to ferment; and, when the fer¬ 
 mentation begins to slacken, which may be known by a dimi¬ 
 nution of the hissing noise, let the bung be driven in, and 
 leave open the spile, or wooden peg. After a few days let the 
 peg be loosened again, that if any material quantity of car¬ 
 bonic acid gas has been created, it may have vent to escape. 
 The same trial must be made after successive intervals, till 
 there appears no longer any danger of excessive expansion; 
 the spile may be then permanently tightened. The wine 
 may be racked when six months old, and bottled when per¬ 
 fectly transparent.' 
 
 Elderberry Wine . 
 
 This fruit is excellently calculated for the production of 
 wine. Its juice contains a considerable portion of the fermen¬ 
 tative matter which is so essential for the production of a 
 vigorous fermentation, and its beautiful colour communicates 
 to the wine a rich tint; but as the fruit is deficient in saccha¬ 
 rine matter, this substance must be liberally supplied. This 
 wine is much ameliorated by adding to the elderberry juice a 
 small portion of super-tartrate of potash. Dr. Macculloch ob¬ 
 serves, “ that the proportion of this salt may vary from one to 
 four, and even six per cent. The causes of this admissable 
 laxity will appear, when it is considered that the greater part 
 of the super-tartrate of potash is again deposited in the lees. 
 I may also remark, that from two to four per cent, will be 
 found a sufficient dose, in proportion to the greater or less 
 
HKD AND BLACK CURRANT WINE. W( J 
 
 sweetness of the fruit, the sweetest requiring the largest quan¬ 
 tity of this salt, and vice versa. The dose of it ought also to 
 vary in proportion to the added sugar, increasing it as this in¬ 
 creases.” 
 
 To every two quarts of bruised berries put one quart of 
 water, strain the juice through a hair sieve, and add to every 
 quart of the diluted juice one pound of lump sugar. Boil 
 the mixture for about one quarter of an hour, and suffer it to 
 ferment in the manner before stated.—See Gooseberry 
 Wine. 
 
 Or, bruise a bushel of picked elderberries, dilute the mass 
 with ten gallons of water, and having boiled it for a few 
 minutes, strain off the juice and squeeze out the husks. 
 Measure the whole quantity of the juice, and to every quart 
 put three quarters of a pound of lump sugar; and whilst still 
 warm, add to it half a pint of yeast, and fill up the cask with 
 some of the reserved liquor. When the wine is clear it may 
 be drawn off from the lees (which will be in about three 
 months) and bottled for use. For flavouring the wine, gin¬ 
 ger, allspice, or any other aromatic substance may be used: 
 the flavouring materials may be inclosed in a bag, and sus¬ 
 pended in the cask, and removed when the desired flavour is 
 produced. 
 
 British Grape Wine. 
 
 Mash the grapes to form a pulp without breaking the 
 stones; squeeze out the juice, and strain it through a sieve, 
 pour over the husks, or mark, a small quantity of water, let it 
 stand twenty-four hours, and force out the adhering juice. 
 Having done this, add to every gallon of the juice three 
 pounds of lump sugar, suffer the liquor to ferment, and ob¬ 
 serve the rules pointed out for making gooseberry wine. 
 
 Red and Black Currant Wine. 
 
 A mixture of equal parts of red and black currants make 
 an excellent wine, superior in flavour to the wine obtained 
 from either of these fruits when in a separate state. Mash 
 the berries, and having squeezed out the juice, dilute it with a 
 like quantity of water, and to every quart of the diluted 
 
P7*2 WINE MADE FROM MKCED FRUITS. 
 
 juice add one pound of sugar. Put it into a cask, reserving 
 a little for filling up, and place it in a warm situation to fer¬ 
 ment, taking care to fill up the cask with the reserved portion 
 of the juice. When it has ceased fermenting, bung it close, 
 and when clear, rake it of its lees, and bottle it. 
 
 Mulberry Wine. 
 
 Take mulberries when nearly ripe, bruise them in a tub, 
 and to every quart of the bruised berries put a like quantity 
 of water; let the mixture stand for twenty-four hours, strain it 
 through a coarse sieve, and having added to every gallon of 
 the diluted juice three or four pounds of sugar, suffer it to 
 ferment, and when fine bottle it. 
 
 Raspberry Wine. 
 
 To ten quarts of mashed raspberries add eight quarts of 
 water, let the mixture stand twenty-four hours, strain the 
 mass through a coarse hair, sieve, and to every gallon add 
 from two to three pounds of lump sugar, and suffer it to fer¬ 
 ment. 
 
 Cherry Wine. 
 
 An excellent wine may be made from cherries in the fol¬ 
 lowing manner:— Take Morello cherries, not over ripe, 
 picked off from their stalks, mash them in a mortar or pan to 
 detach the pulp without bruising the stones, and suffer the 
 mass to stand twenty-four hours. Press the pulp through a 
 coarse hair sieve, and to every three gallons add from eight 
 to nine pounds of loaf sugar. Put the mixture into a cask, 
 suffer it to ferment, and rake the wine from its lees as soon as 
 it becomes clear. Some manufacturers crack the stones, and 
 hang them, with the bruised kernels, in a bag suspended from 
 the bung-holes in the cask, during the fermentation of the 
 wine, which thus acquires a nutty flavour. 
 
 Damson wine may be made in a similar manner. 
 
 Wine made from mixed Fruits. 
 
 The following method of making an excellent wine is 
 copied from the Bath Society’s paper, vol. xi. :— 
 
COWSLIP WINE 
 
 673 
 
 i4 Take cherries, black currants, white currants, and rasp¬ 
 berries, of each an equal quantity, though if the black cur¬ 
 rants preponderate the better. To four pounds of the mixed 
 fruit, well bruised, put one gallon of water; let it steep three 
 days and nights in an open vessel, frequently stirring up the 
 mass; then strain it through a hair sie^e ; the remaining pulp 
 press to dryness : put both liquids together, and in each gal¬ 
 lon of the liquid put three pounds of sugar; let the whole 
 stand again three days and nights, frequently stirring it up as 
 before, after skimming off the top ; then tun it into a cask, 
 and let it remain open at the bung-hole whilst fermenting about 
 two weeks: lastly, to every nine gallons put one quart o. 
 good brandy, and then fasten down the bung; if it does 
 not soon become fine, a solution of isinglass may be stirred 
 into the wine.” 
 
 Ginger Wine. 
 
 Dissolve eighteen or twenty pounds of sugar in nine and a 
 half gallons of boiling water, and add to it ten or twelve 
 ounces of bruised ginger root. Boil the mixture for about a 
 quarter of an hour, and when nearly cold, add to it half a pint 
 of yeast, and pour it into a cask to ferment, taking care to fill 
 up the cask from time to time with the surplus of the liquor 
 made for that purpose. When the fermentation ceases, rack 
 off the wine, and bottle it when transparent. 
 
 It is a common practice to boil the outer rind of a few 
 lemons together with the ginger destined for the wine, to im 
 part to the wine the flavour of lemon-peel. 
 
 Cowslip Wine. 
 
 Dissolve twenty-five pounds of loaf sugar in nine and a 
 half gallons of boiling water; fill with the solution a nine 
 gallon cask, and add to it, whilst still warm, half a pint of ale 
 yeast. (It is the common practice to add also the yellow 
 rind of twelve lemons.) Suffer the mixture to ferment, and 
 when the fermentation has nearly ceased (not before) add to 
 it eight or ten handfuls of the petals of cowslips, and suffei 
 the fermentation to proceed in the usual manner. When the 
 wine is clear, draw it off into bottles. If the flowers be added 
 a 29 D 
 
6^4 
 
 ORANQF. WINE 
 
 at the commencement of the fermentation, their flavouring 
 substance is greatly dissipated: whereas, by adding flower 
 petals at the end of the fermentative process, or suspending 
 them for a few days in the cask, their flavour remains com¬ 
 bined with the wine. 
 
 Apricot Wine. 
 
 Take apricots, when nearly ripe, remove the stones, and 
 bruise the pulp in a mortar. To eight pounds of the pulp 
 add a quart of water; suffer the mixture to stand for twenty- 
 four hours, and then squeeze out the juice; add to every 
 gallon of it two pounds of loaf sugar; put it into a cask and 
 suffer it to ferment, and when perfectly clear bottle it. 
 
 Peach wine may be made in a like manner. 
 
 Orange Wine. 
 
 As the orange, (and also the lemon,) although not a native 
 fruit, is familiar to us, we shall consider them in one view. 
 They differ principally from other fruits in the quantity of 
 their uncombined acid. Take the outer rind of one hundred 
 Seville oranges, so thinly pared that no white appears in it, 
 pour upon it ten and a half gallons of boiling water; suffer it 
 to stand for eight or ten hours, and having strained off the 
 liquor, whilst slightly warm, add to it the juice of the pulp, 
 and from twenty-six to thirty pounds of lump sugar, and a 
 few table spoonfuls of yeast; suffer it to ferment in the cask 
 for about five days, or till the fermentation has apparently 
 ceased, and when the wine is perfectly transparent draw it off 
 from its lees, and bottle it. 
 
 Another way.—To eight gallons of water add thirty 
 pounds of Lisbon sugar and the whites and shells of six eggs, 
 well beaten; boil it—stir and scum ; let it boil a quarter of 
 an hour after it is clear, then put it into a tub to cool. Pare 
 the oranges very thin, put them into a pan, and pour boiling 
 water over the peel; let it stand twenty-four hours; press the 
 fruit free from seeds, and put all into a cask cold. When 
 the fermentation is over, allow a pint of brandy for every eight 
 gallons, ard stop the cask. Observe, for eight gallons of 
 vater there must be one gallon of juice, and twenty- eight or 
 
ORANGE WINE 
 
 67* 
 
 thirty pounds of sugar: this will be fit for use in ten or 
 twelve months. The oranges should be purchased in Febru¬ 
 ary or March, as they are then full of juice. If juicy half a 
 chest will yield juice for a twenty gallon cask. 
 
 Another way.—To one gallon of water add three and a 
 hah pounds of loaf sugar, and the pulp of ten Seville oranges, 
 with half the rind pared very thin. Be careful to leave out 
 the seeds. Boil together the sugar and water, and skim it 
 well: when cold, add the juice, pulp, and peel, and put it in 
 the barrel. Stir it ten days, and then stop it down, adding 
 to every five gallons one quart of brandy. 
 
 Another way.—To ten gallons of water, put twenty-eight 
 pounds of loaf sugar, and the whites of six eggs, (well beaten,) 
 mix them well together, and boil them three quarters of 
 an hour, taking off the scum, peel thin seventy good sized 
 Seville oranges, and put the peels into a tub, pour the liquor 
 hot upon them, and cover it closely ; when it is almost cold, 
 squeeze the oranges, and put one gallon of the juice, free 
 from seeds, into the liquor; set it working with a toast and 
 about ten spoonfuls of good yeast: when it has stood four or 
 five days, scum off the yeast, take out the peels, and put in 
 two quarts of the best brandy, barrel it up, giving it vent till 
 it has done fermenting. When it has stood a year, you may 
 bottle it off, but it will be fit to drink out of the cask in about 
 nine 'months. 
 
 Another way.—Dissolve twelve pounds of loaf sugar in 
 six gallons of water, in which the whites of a dozen eggs 
 have been whisked. Whisk the whole, and boil and skim it. 
 When nearly cold, put into it six spoonfuls of yeast, and the 
 juice of a dozen lemons. Next morning skim off the top, and 
 add the parings of the lemons, and the juice and yellow rind 
 of four dozen Seville oranges. Ferment for three days and 
 cask the wine. This wine may be improved by substituting 
 honey for one third of the sugar. It may be enriched by the 
 addition of some of the high flavoured wines, and perfumed 
 with ginger, bitter almonds, bergamot, citron, peach-leaves, 
 &c. The whole of the orange-rind is by some thought to 
 give too decided a flavour; less may be used at pleasure. 
 
 Another way.—Boil three pounds and a half of lump 
 
676 
 
 RAISIN WINE. 
 
 sugar with every gallon of water as long as the scum rises, 
 which must be taken off; allow twelve oranges to a gallon. 
 They must be pared very thin; put *he whole of the parings 
 into a tub, and pour the hot liquid upon them ; let it stand 
 about twelve hours, or until it is cool, when you must add 
 the juice of the oranges, and some good yeast. Stir it up 
 together, and let it stand three or four days; then strain it 
 through a hair sieve, and put in the cask while it is working: 
 the yeast must for some time be taken off and filled with wine 
 left for the purpose. The cask must not be bunged for 
 three or four months, or bottled in less than twelve months; 
 some brandy must be added to it; some white of eggs should 
 be boiled with the sugar and water, about one to two gallons ; 
 the most certain way is to measure the juice, one quart to 
 three gallons of water. 
 
 Raisin Wine. 
 
 Upon twenty-four pounds of raisins, picked from the stalks, 
 pour six gallons of boiling water, and add six pounds of sugar; 
 let them macerate about ten or fourteen days, stirring it 
 every day; then pour off the liquor, squeeze out the raisins, 
 and add to it three quarters of a pound of finely powdered 
 super-tartrate of potash. Put the liquor into a cask, reserv¬ 
 ing a sufficient quantity for filling up the cask, and draw off 
 the wine when the fermentation has ceased. 
 
 In the Museum Rusticum we have the following directions 
 for making raisin wine:—“ Put thirty gallons of soft water 
 into a vessel at least one-third bigger than sufficient to con¬ 
 tain that quantity; and add to it one hundred and twenty 
 pounds of raisins picked from their stalks. Mix the whole 
 well together, and cover the vessel with a cloth. When it 
 has stood a little while in a warm place, it will begin to fer¬ 
 ment, and must be well stirred about twice in twenty-four 
 hours, for twelve or fourteen days. When the sweetness is 
 nearly gone off, and the fermentation much abated, which 
 will be perceived by the subsiding and rest of the raisins, 
 strain off the fluid, pressing it out of the raisins, first by the 
 hand, and afterwards by a press. Let this liquor be put into 
 a wine-cask, well dried and warmed, adding eight pounds of 
 
RAISIN WINE. V £7. 
 
 Lisbon sugar, and a little yeast, and reserving part of the 
 liquor to be added, from time to time, to fill up the cask whilst 
 the fermentation is ffoino; on.” 
 
 A raisin wine, possessing the flavour of Frontigniac. may 
 be made in the following manner:— 
 
 Take six pounds of raisins, boil them in six gallons of 
 water, and when perfectly soft, rub them through a collander, 
 to separate the stones. Add the pulp to the water in which 
 the raisins have been boiled, pour this mixture upon twelve 
 pounds of white sugar, aud suffer it to ferment, with the addi¬ 
 tion of half a pint of yeast. When the fermentation has 
 nearly ceased, add a quarter of a peck of elder flowers, con¬ 
 tained in a bag, which should be suspended in the cask, and 
 removed when the wine has acquired the desired flavour. 
 When the wine has become clear, draw it off into bottles. 
 
 Add to seven pounds of raisins one gallon of water, let them 
 steep three weeks, stirring them every day ; draw it off a-nd put 
 it into a cask quite full: when it has done hissing, put some 
 brandy into it and stop it up close. 
 
 The raisins will serve for vinegar or for distillation. 
 
 Another way.—Take the best Malaga raisins, pick out 
 the large stalks, and have your water ready boiled. When 
 cold, measure as many gallons as you design to make, and put 
 it into a large tub, that you may have room to stir it. To 
 every gallon of water put six pounds of raisins, and let the 
 whole remain fourteen days, stirring it twice in twenty-four 
 hours. When you have strained it off, put it into your cask, 
 reserving a sufficient quantity to keep it filled as the liquor 
 works over, which it will often do for two months or more. It 
 must not be closed till the fermentation has ceased. Or, 
 Take two gallons of spring water, and let it boil for half an 
 hour. Then put into an earthen jar two pounds of sugar, 
 and the rinds of two lemons ; pour the boiling water thereon, 
 and let it stand covered four or five days, after which bottle 
 it off. In fifteen or sixteen days it will be fit for use. Or, 
 Take forty pounds of Malaga raisins in March, cut them 
 slightly, and throw the stalks into two gallons of water; then 
 taking this water in part, put the raisins into a cask, with six 
 gallons more of water, and a pint of the best brandy. Stii 
 
678 
 
 RAISIN WINE. 
 
 it up with a stick once a day, for a week; then close it well 
 up, let it stand half a year, and bottle it off’.—Or, To every 
 gallon of water put five pounds of raisins, picked from the 
 stalks and pulled in two, let them steep a fortnight, stirring 
 them every day; then pour off the liquor, squeezing the juice 
 out of the raisins. Put the liquor into a clean cask that will 
 just hold it, taking care that it is quite full, and let it stand 
 open till it has done working; then add a pint of French 
 brandy to every two gallons, and stop it up close. It must 
 stand six months before it is bottled off, in doing which do 
 not draw it too near the bottom of the cask. The first three 
 months of the year are the best to make it, the fruit being 
 then new.—Another method of making this pleasant liquor is 
 as follows : Take three hundred pounds of Malaga raisins, 
 not picked, put them into a hogshead of spring water, with a 
 pound of hops, and let the whole stand a fortnight, stirring 
 it twice a day. Then press it into a tub, and put into it a 
 large piece of toasted bread, spread over with yeast, and let 
 it ferment twenty-four hours; afterwards put the liquor into 
 a cask, where it may work fourteen days longer; fill it up 
 again as it works over, and when it has ceased, let it be well 
 bunged. You may afterwards put eighteen gallons of water 
 upon the raisins for small wine, and in a week after press it 
 out. When about two months old bottle it off. 
 
 Another way.—To every gallon of spring water, put eight 
 pounds of fresh Smyrnas in a large tub ; stir it thoroughly every 
 day for a month; then press the raisins in a horse-hair bag as 
 dry as possible ; put the liquor into a cask, and when it has done 
 hissing pour in a bottle of the best brandy; stop it close fo 
 twelve months; then rack it off, but without the dregs; filter 
 them through a bag of flannel of three or four folds; add the 
 clear to the quantity, and pour one or two quarts of brandy, 
 according to the size of the vessel. Stop it up, and at the 
 end of three years you may either bottle it, or drink it from 
 the cask. Raisin wine would be extremely good, if made 
 rich of the fruit, and kept long, which improves the flavour 
 greatly. 
 
ENGLISH SHERRY 
 
 679 
 
 Raisin Wine ivith Cider. 
 
 Put two hundred weight of Malaga raisins into a cask, and 
 pour upon them a hogshead of good sound cider that is not 
 rough ; stir it well two or three days ; stop it, and let it stand 
 six months; then rack into a cask that it will fill, and put in a 
 gallon of the best brandy. If raisin wine be much used, it 
 would answer well to keep a cask always for it, and bottle oft 
 one year’s wine just in time to make the next, which, allow¬ 
 ing the six months of infusion, would make the wine to be 
 eighteen months old. In cider counties, this way is very 
 economical ; and even if not thought strong enough, the ad¬ 
 dition of another quarter of a hundred of raisins vvould be 
 sufficient, and the wine would still be very cheap. When 
 the raisins are pressed through a horse-hair bag, they will 
 either produce a good spirit by distillation, and must be sent 
 to a chemist who will do it; # (but if for that purpose, they 
 must be very little pressed:) or they will make excellent vine¬ 
 gar ; on which article see page 544. The stalks should be 
 pinked out for the above, and may be thrown into any cask o‘ 
 vinegar that is making, being very acid. 
 
 English Sherry. 
 
 To every pound of good moist sugar, put one quart of 
 water. Boil it till it is clear; when cool (as near as possi¬ 
 ble to cold without being quite so) work it with new yeast, 
 and add of strong beer in the height of working, the propor¬ 
 tion of one quart in a gallon. Cover it up, and let it work 
 the same as beer; when the fermentation begins to subside, 
 tun it; and when it has been in the cask a fortnight or three 
 weeks, add raisins, half a pound to a gallon, sugarcandy and 
 bitter almonds of each half an ounce to a gallon, and to nine 
 gallons of wine half a pint of the best brandy. Paste a 
 stiff brown paper over the bung-hole, and if necessary renew 
 it. For all British wines, brown paper thus pasted on is 
 
 All lees of wine are valuable for this purpose j the spirit produced 
 will answer every purpose of brandy for keeping wines, or for infusiug 
 drugs for tinctures. 
 
6S0 
 
 GRAPE WINE. 
 
 preferable to a bung. This wine will be fit to bottle aftei 
 remaining one year in the cask; but if left longer will be 
 improved; if suffered to remain three years in the cask, and 
 one in bottles, it can scarcely be distinguished from good 
 foreign wine, and for almost every purpose answers exactly 
 as well. 
 
 Parsnip Wine. 
 
 To every four pounds of parsnips, cleaned and quartered, 
 put a gallon of water. Boil till they are quite soft, and strain 
 the liquor clear off without crushing the parsnips. To every 
 gallon of the liquor put three pounds of loaf sugar, and a half 
 ounce of crude tartar. When nearly cold put fresh yeast to 
 it. Let it stand four days in a warm room, and then bung 
 it up. 
 
 Horseradish wine is made as above, and is recommended 
 for gouty habits. 
 
 Lemon Wine. 
 
 To every gallon of water four or five lemons, and three 
 pounds and a half of lump sugar; boil the sugar with the 
 water and clear it with the white of eggs. When clear put 
 it boiling with your lemon-peel, and when nearly cold add a 
 little yeast and the juice of the lemons : work it two days, stir¬ 
 ring it each day; then draw it from the peel and barrel it. 
 Let it remain open a week, and then add a little isinglass; 
 make it up, adding a quart of brandy to nine gallons; as the 
 quantity of juice yielded by the lemons is uncertain, it is best 
 to compute thus :—To three pints of lemon juice, six gallons 
 of water and twenty-one pounds of lump sugar. 
 
 Grape Wine. 
 
 One third of grape juice to two thirds water, three pounds 
 and a half of sugar to each gallon ; to every eight or ten gal¬ 
 lons add a quarter of a pound of bitter almonds, cut small, and 
 put into the cask. When grapes for wine are to be gathered 
 from one garden, there are seldom enough ripe at once ; but 
 they may be preserved a week or two if gathered as they 
 ripen., and kept in a cool shady place that the heat may not 
 
GRAPE WINE. 
 
 681 
 
 burst them. They may be pressed with a churn-stick, or 
 something of that kind, care being taken to avoid as much s 
 possible breaking the stones. 
 
 When grape juice can be procured in sufficient quantity to 
 make wine without the addition of water or sugar, if properly 
 prepared and kept a sufficient time, it will be little inferior 
 to the wines of the continent; the mode of proceeding is as 
 follows:— 
 
 Having reduced the fruit to a pulp, make a tap at the 
 bottom of a cask, tie a hair cloth over the receiving tub, and 
 let such of the juice out as will run freely. Next take out 
 the pulp, and press it by degrees till the liquor is drained offj 
 after which, get a clean cask, well matched, and pour the 
 liquor in through a sieve and funnel to stop the dregs, letting 
 it stand with a slate over the bung-hole to ferment and refine 
 for ten or twelve days. Next draw it off gently into anothei 
 cask, and lay. the slate on the bung-hole as before, till the 
 fermentation is done, which you may ascertain by its cool and 
 pleasant taste. Thus of white grapes you may make a good 
 white wine, and of the red one resembling claret.—Or, Take 
 ripe grapes, gathered in dry weather, and put them into a 
 press, but squeeze them gently so as not to break the stones; 
 then strain the liquor well, and let it settle, after which draw 
 off the clear juice into a well-seasoned matched cask, and stop 
 it close for eight and forty hours; then give it vent near the 
 bung-hole, and put therein a peg that may easily be removed, 
 and in two days’ time stop it close. It will be fit to drink in 
 three months. To season your casks, scald them with hot 
 water, and afterwards match them. To colour these wines, 
 or any other, take some damsons or black sloes, and stew 
 them with some of the deepest coloured wine you can get, and 
 as much sugar as will make it into a syrup. A pint of this 
 will colour a hogshead of claret or port: and how successfully 
 these imitations have been practised, even for the purposes of 
 deception and imposition, the following well authenticate 
 anecdote will shew :— 
 
 Lord Chief Justice Wilmot used to give a curious account 
 of an Innkeeper at Warwick, whom, he had tried for having 
 poisoned some of his customers with his port wine, by which 
 
 4 s 
 
682 
 
 RASPBERRY WINE. 
 
 they had narrowly escaped with their lives : and that the indict¬ 
 ment was quashed by the impudence of the fellow, who abso¬ 
 lutely proved that there had never been a drop of port wine 
 in the hogshead! 
 
 To improve vitiated wine, take a pint of clarified honey, a 
 pint of water in which raisins of the sun have been steeped, 
 and three gills of good white or red wine, according to the 
 colour of that which is to be improved. Boil them over a 
 slow fire till a third part is wasted, taking off the scum as it 
 rises ; then put it very hot into the vitiated liquor, letting it 
 stand without the bung. Afterwards put into a linen bag a 
 little mace, nutmeg, and cloves, and suspend it in the cask by 
 a string for three or four days. T. he wine may be still fur¬ 
 ther improved, if, after taking out the spice, you hang, in its 
 place, a small bag of bruised white mustard seed. 
 
 Gooseberry Wine in imitation of Champaign. 
 
 Tc every three pounds of ripe gooseberries put a pint of 
 spring water unboiled; first bruise your fruit with your hands 
 in a tub, and then put the water to them, stir them very 
 well, and let them stand a whole day, and then strain them 
 oft*, and to every pound of gooseberries and a pint of water, a 
 pound of sugar dissolved, and let it stand twenty-four hours 
 more, then scum the head clear off, and put the liquor into a 
 vessel, and the scum into a flannel bag, and what drains from 
 it put into the vessel; you must let it work two or three days 
 before you stop it up, and if it be not clear when you draw it 
 into bottles, let it stand in the bottles some time, then rack it 
 into other bottles. When you draw it out of the cask, do 
 Jiot tap it too low. 
 
 Several other recipes might be given, but it would be need¬ 
 lessly swelling the book, as the proportions and management 
 are substantially the same. Experience and fancy will dictate 
 any agreeable or advantageous varieties. 
 
 Raspberry Wine. 
 
 Take ripe raspberries, bruise them with the back of a spoon, 
 strain them and fill a bottle with the juice, stop it, but not 
 very close, and set it up four or five days; then pour off from 
 
RASPBERRY OR CURRANT WINE. 
 
 683 
 
 the dregs, and add thereto as much rhenish or white wine as 
 the juice will colour; that done sweeten your wine with loaf 
 sugar, and bottle it up for use. 
 
 Another way.—To every quart of well picked raspberries 
 put a quart of water; bruise and let them stand two days; 
 strain off the liquor, and to every gallon put three pounds of 
 lump sugar; when dissolved put the liquor in a barrel, and 
 when fine, which will be in about two months, bottle it, and 
 to each bottle put a spoonful of brandy. 
 
 Currant Wine , 
 
 Take your currants full ripe, strip them and bruise them 
 in a mortar, and to every gallon of pulp put two quarts of 
 water, first boiled and cold ; (you may put in some grapes if 
 you please;) let it rtand in a tub to ferment, and then let it 
 run through a hair sieve. Let no person touch it, and let it 
 take its time to run, and to every gallon of this liquor put 
 two pounds and a half of white sugar, stir it well and put it 
 in your vessel, and to every gallon put a quart of the best 
 rectified spirits of wine; let it stand six weeks and bottle it. 
 
 Raspberry or Currant Wine. 
 
 To every three pints of fruit, carefully cleared from mouldy 
 or bad, put one quart of water; bruise the former. In 
 twenty-four hours strain the liquor, and put to every quart a 
 pound of sugar, of good middling quality of Lisbon. If for 
 white currants, use lump sugar. It is best to put the fruit, 
 &c. in a large pan, and when in three or four days the scum 
 rises, take that off before the liquor be put into the barrel. 
 Those who make from their own gardens, may not have a 
 sufficiency to fill the barrel at once ; the wine will not be hurt 
 if made in the pan, in the above proportions, and added as 
 the fruit ripens, and can be gathered in dry weather. Keep 
 an account of what is put in each time. 
 
 Another way.— Put five quarts of currants, and a pint ot 
 raspberries, to every two gallons of water: let them soak a 
 night ; then squeeze and break them well. Next day rub 
 herfi well on a fine wire sieve, till all the juice is obtained, 
 
684 - 
 
 GINGER WINE. 
 
 washing the skins again with some of the water; then to 
 every gallon put four pounds of very good Lisbon sagar, but 
 not white, which is often adulterated ; tun it immediately, and 
 lay the bung lightly on. Do not use any thing to work it. 
 In two or three days put a bottle of brandy to every four gal¬ 
 lons ; bung it close, but leave the peg out at top a few days; 
 keep it three years and it will be a very fine agreeable wine 
 four years would make it still better. 
 
 Black Currant Wine , very fine. 
 
 To every three quarts of juice, put the same of water un¬ 
 boiled ; and to every three quarts of the liquor, add three 
 pounds of very pure moist sugar. Put it into a cask, reserv¬ 
 ing a little for filling up. Put the cask in a warm dry room, 
 and the liquor will ferment of itself. Skim off the refuse, 
 when the fermentation shall be over, and fill up with the 
 reserved liquor. When it has ceased working, pour three 
 quarts of brandy to forty quarts of wine. Bung it close foi 
 nine months, then bottle it, and drain the thick pait through 
 a jelly-bag, until it be clear, and bottle that. Keep it ten or 
 twelve months. 
 
 Ginger Wine . 
 
 Nine gallons of water, twenty-seven pounds of Lisbon sugar, 
 nine ounces of white race ginger, bruised, the thin peeling of 
 twelve lemons, boil half an hour, and let it stand till blood 
 warm ; add the juice of twenty lemons, and six pounds of 
 raisins, cut small; then put it into the cask, work it with 
 three spoonfuls of yeast, stir it every day at the bung-hole for 
 ten days, stop it down, in three months lack it off and add 
 half an ounce of isinglass and one pint of brandy. 
 
 Another way.—Eighteen pounds of coarse sugar, six gal¬ 
 lons of soft water, the peel of six lemons shaved thin, six 
 ounces of best whole ginger. Let these ingredients boil to¬ 
 gether gently for two hours ; when cold, put them into a ten- 
 gallon cask with three pounds of good raisins, and the juice 
 jf the six lemons and a bit of toasted bread, on which spread 
 i spoonful or two of fresh yeast; stir them for six days, then 
 
COWSLIP WINE. 
 
 685 
 
 add one quart of brandy, one ounce oi isinglass, and stop 
 down tight. It will be fit for use in six months. 
 
 Another way.—To ten gallons of water put twenty 
 pounds of good moist sugar, two pounds of white ginger 
 bruised; let them boil three quarters of an hour, taking off 
 the scum, then add the rinds of a dozen lemons ; boil the 
 whole one quarter of an hour, and put it into a tub. 
 When nearly cold add the juice of the lemons, and a pint 
 of good yeast, cover the tub, and let it stand two days to 
 ferment, stirring it occasionally; after which, put it into a 
 barrel, adding one ounce of isinglass, a pound of sun raisins, 
 and half a gallon of brandy; when almost settled, bung it 
 up slightly; in six weeks it is ready to be bottled. It may be 
 drank directly, but is improved by keeping, and will keep 
 good for any length of time. Put the ginger in a bag. 
 
 Another way.—To ten gallons of water, in which fiftee 
 pounds of loaf-sugar have been dissolved, put the whites of a 
 dozen eggs ; mix this well, and boil and skim it; then put to 
 it twelve ounces of the best ginger peeled and bruised. Boil 
 the whole a half-hour in a covered boiler. When the liquor 
 is nearly cold, put a glassful of fresh yeast into the tub. Let 
 it ferment for three davs, and on the second add the thin 
 parings of four Seville oranges and six lemons. Cask it, 
 and bottle off in six weeks or less. 
 
 Cowslip Wine, 
 
 The best method of making this article is that of boiling 
 sugar and water in the usual proportions of about three pounds 
 to each gallon of water, for every gallon of wine to be produced. 
 When it has boiled three-quarters of an hour, add, for every 
 gallon, the thin rind of two lemons, and two ounces of hops to 
 every nine gallons, and let it boil one quarter longer; mean¬ 
 while, remove the remaining pulp and rind from the lemons, 
 (and if approved, half as many Seville oranges, in which 
 last, half their rinds may be added to the boil, and only hair 
 that of the lemons). Put the fruit into a tub or pan, large 
 enough to work the whole ; pour over the fruit, the boiling 
 liquor, hops, and rind ; or if it already tastes strong enough 
 
686 
 
 COWSLIP WINE. 
 
 of the rind the liquor may be strained. ^Vhen cool, work 
 it with yeast, either stirred in, or spread on a toast. After 
 two days skimming, strain it into the cask, and when the 
 effervescence lias subsided, paste brown paper over the bung- 
 hole, and secure that of the veutpeg. This part of the 
 business may be carried on at any time of the year, when 
 lemons are cheapest, and without regard to the time of cow¬ 
 slips. These are to be gathered in fine dry weather, care¬ 
 fully picked from all green particles, spread on a shed, or on 
 papers, or trays, and turned often, till thoroughly dry; they 
 may then be put up in paper bags, till the wine is about six 
 months old, and all fermentation has subsided, when they are 
 to be put in at the bung-hole, and stirred down twice or 
 thrice a day, for several days in succession. When all the 
 cowslips have sunk, the cask may be papered down as before, 
 and in six months more the wine will be fit to bottle. It is 
 much esteemed for making whey, as the cowslips are supposed 
 to have a composing and cooling tendency. Other valuable 
 recipes by experienced wine makers are here presented, 
 though our decided preference is given to the method of dry¬ 
 ing the pips, and adding them when the effervescence has 
 subsided. 
 
 Another way.—Take four gallons of water, let it boil, 
 then add the thin rind of two lemons, and twenty-four quarts 
 of cowslip pips; boil a few minutes, then strain it, and add 
 twelve pounds of sugar ; boil and skim it till clear. When 
 cool, work it with yeast; let it stand two or three days, then 
 put it in the cask with the two lemons. 
 
 Another way.— To each gallon of water, put three pounds 
 of sugar; boil it well, and skim it when cold; work it witli 
 toast and yeast. To three gallons of liquor, add one peck 
 of cowslips, putting the cowslips into the cask, and pouring 
 the liquor to them. To the above quantity, add one pound 
 of sugar, beaten with the juice of two lemons, and one 
 Seville orange, and half the peel; stir it daily for nine or 
 ten days, then stop it down. Let it stand a month, then 
 bottle it off 
 
 Another way.-—To six gallons of water, put thirty 
 
ELDER WINE. 
 
 687 
 
 pounds of Ma.aga raisins; boil your water two hours, and 
 measure it out of your copper upon your raisins, which must 
 be chopped small into a tub; let them work together ten 
 days, stirring it several times a day; at the end of that time 
 strain it off, and press the raisins hard, to get their strength; 
 then take two spoonfuls of good ale yeast, and beat with it 
 six ounces of syrup of lemons. Put in three pecks of 
 cowslips, by little and little, and let all your ingredients work 
 together three days, stirring it two or three times a day, and 
 tun it up. Bottle it at the end of four months. 
 
 To clarify wine, all the above remarks and directions apply 
 as well as to cowslip. 
 
 Elder Winn. 
 
 ^or every two gallons of wine that are to be made, get 
 one gallon of elderberries and a quart of damsons or sloes; 
 boil them together in six quarts of water for half an hour, 
 breaking the fruit with a stick flat at one end ; run off the 
 liquor, and squeeze the pulp through a sieve or straining 
 cloth; boil the liquor up again with six pounds of coarse 
 sugar, two ounces of ginger, and two ounces of allspice, 
 bruised, and one ounce of hops; (the spice had better be 
 loosely tied in a bit of rag or muslin;) let this boil above halt 
 an hour; then pour it off; when quite cool, stir in a tea-cup¬ 
 ful of yeast, and cover it up to work. After two days, skim 
 off the yeast, and put it in the barrel, and when it ceases to 
 hiss, which will be in about a fortnight, paste a stiff brown 
 paper over the bung-hole. After this, it will be fit for use 
 in about eight weeks, but will keep eight years if required. 
 The bag of spice may be dropped in at the bung-hole, having 
 a string fastened from it to the outside, which shall keep it 
 from reaching the bottom of the barrel. 
 
 Another way.—Take Malaga raisins, cut them small, 
 stalks, stones and all, put them into a tub, and pour over 
 them water that has been boiled an hour; to every six pounds 
 of raisins put one gallon of water, pour it on hot, and stir 
 it well, and when cold, cover it with a cloth, and let it work 
 together ten or twelve clays, stirring it five or six times a day; 
 at the end of that time strain the liquor from the raisins, and 
 
688 
 
 MEAD OR METHEGLIN. 
 
 equeeze them hard; and put to every gallon of liquor onu 
 pint of the juice of elder. The best way to get the juice 
 is to bake the berries in earthern pots.; let the liquor be cold 
 when you put them together, and stir it well; then tun it, 
 and when it has done working, clay it up, and let it stand 
 four or five months before you bottle it; in six weeks after it 
 will be very ripe. 
 
 Elder-flower wine.—A good Imitation of Frontigniac. 
 
 Take nine quarts of the juice of white elderberries, which 
 . has been pressed gently from the berries, with the hand, 
 through a sieve, without bruising the kernels of the berries ; 
 to nine gallons of water, add to each gallon of liquor 
 three pounds of Lisbon sugar, and to the whole quantity, 
 put an ounce and a half of ginger, sliced, and three quarters 
 of an ounce of cloves ; then boil it near an hour, taking off the 
 scum as it rises, and pour the whole to cool in an open tub, 
 and work it with ale yeast, spread upon a toast of white 
 bread for three days, and then turn it into a vessel that will 
 just hold it, adding about a pound and a half of raisins of 
 the sun split, to lie in the liquor, till you draw it off, which 
 should pot be till the wine is fine, which you find in January. 
 
 Sack Mead. 
 
 To every gallon of water put four pounds of honey, and 
 boil it three quarters of an hour, taking care to skim-it. To 
 every gallon add an ounce of hops ; then boil it half an hour, 
 and let it stand till next day ; put it into your cask, and to 
 thirteen gallons of the liquor, add a quart of brandy. Let it 
 be lightly stopped till the fermentation is over, and then stop 
 it very close. If you make a large cask, keep it a year in 
 cas 
 
 Mead or Metheglin. 
 
 To every gallon of water put three pounds of honey, boil 
 it well, and skim it all the time. While boiling, put in two 
 lemon-peels for each gallon. Empty it into a clean tub, and 
 while about milk-warm, add some yeast and work it. Then 
 put it into a clean barrel for five or six months, and after- 
 
DAMSON WINE. 
 
 689 
 
 wards bottle it for use. You may ?train the skimmings 
 through a filtering bag. If you allow to every gallon four 
 pounds of honey it will keep for seven years. 
 
 The Welch have another method of making mead, to 
 /hich they give the name of bragget. They put to a gallon 
 of water a pound of honey, and stir the whole well; then 
 add half a handful each of rosemary tops, bay leaves, sweet- 
 briar, angelica, balm, thyme, or other herbs, with half an 
 ounce of ginger, nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, and cloves, all 
 boiled gently about half an hour, and skimmed constantly. 
 This liquor is mixed hot with three gallons of the first run¬ 
 nings of strong ale or sweet wort, and placed over the fire, 
 but not suffered to boil. When cool, it is strained and fer¬ 
 mented with yeast, and afterwards barrelled with a bag of 
 spices suspended in it. 
 
 Cowslip Mead 
 
 Put thirty pounds of honey into fifteen gallons of water, 
 and boil till one gallon is wasted ; skim it, take it off the fire, 
 and have ready a dozen and a half of lemons, quartered; pour 
 a gallon of the liquor boiling hot upon them ; put the re¬ 
 mainder of the liquor into a tub, with seven pecks of cowslip- 
 pips;* let them remain there all night, and then put the liquor 
 and the lemons to eight spoonfuls of new yeast, and a hand¬ 
 ful of sw'eet-briar; stir all well together, and let it vork for 
 three or four days. Strain and put it into the cask; let it. 
 stand six months, and then bottle it for keeping. 
 
 Damson Wine, 
 
 The small damsons are best, which must be gathered dry, 
 and bruised with your hand, then put them into an earthen ves¬ 
 sel that has a hole in it for a fauset. To every eight pounds 
 of damsons add one gallon of boiling water, which must be 
 poured in scalding-hot. After standing two days, draw' it off 
 into a clean cask, and to every gallon put two pounds and a 
 half of sugar. Let the cask be quite full, and the longer it 
 stands the better. After remaining some months, bottle if 
 
 * We should still recommend the addition of the cowslip pips wher 
 dry. 
 
690 
 
 BLACKBERRY WINE. 
 
 off, putting into each a piece of loaf sugar.—Or, Pat two 
 pounds and a half of sugar to every gallon of water, boil 
 and skim it for two hours, and to each gallon add five pounds 
 of stoned damsons. Boil these till the liquor is of a fine red 
 colour, then strain it through a sieve, and ferment it in an 
 open vessel for four days. On pouring it off from the lees, 
 clean the vessel, and put in the liquor to finish the fermenta¬ 
 tion. Close it well for six 01 eight months, and when fine 
 bottle it off.—Or, Put sixteen pounds of Malaga raisins, with 
 ha?F a peck of damsons, to four gallons of water, in a tub. 
 Cover it, and let it stand six days, stirring it twice every 
 twenty-four hours; then draw off the liquor, colour it, and 
 pour it into a cask, bung it up, and bottle it for use. 
 
 Cherry Wine. 
 
 Pull off the stalks, and mash the cherries without break¬ 
 ing the stones. Then pass them through a hair sieve, and 
 to every gallon of liquor add two pounds of sugar. Next 
 tun it into a clean cask till it is full, after which, let it ferment 
 as long as it makes a noise, and then bung it up for a month 
 or longer. When fine bottle it off, putting a lump of loar 
 sugar into each. Should the fermentation continue, let the 
 bottles stand uncorked for some time. 
 
 Black Cherry Wine, 
 
 Boil six gallons of spring water an hour, then take twenty 
 four pounds of black cherries, and bruise them without break¬ 
 ing the stones. Pour the boiling water upon the fruit, and 
 stir the whole well. After standing twenty-four hours, strain 
 the liquor through a cloth, and to every gallon add two pounds 
 of sugar; then mix it well, and let it stand for another day, 
 at the end of which pour it into a cask, and keep it bunged 
 close till fine, when it may be bottled for use. 
 
 Blackberry Wine. 
 
 Take ripe blackberries, bruise them, and put to everv 
 quart of fruit as much water, mix the whole well, and let it 
 stand all night; then strain it through a sieve, and to every 
 gallon of liquor add two pounds and a half of sugar. When 
 
BIRCH WINE. 
 
 691 
 
 this is dissolved, put it into the cask, with a gill of finings to 
 every twenty gallons, and the next day bung it I n two 
 
 months bottle it for use. 
 
 Birch Wine. 
 
 In the month of March, bore a hole in a birch tree, one 
 foot from the ground, into which put a fauset, and the liquor 
 will run for two or three days together, without injuring the 
 tree. Then stop up the hole with a peg, so that in the fol¬ 
 lowing year another supply may be drawn from the same 
 source. To every gallon of juice put one quart of honev 5 or 
 two pounds and a quarter of sugar, and stir the whole well 
 together. Boil it an hour, skimming it all the time, adding 
 thereto a few cloves, and a piece of lemon-psel. When 
 nearly cold, put to it yeast enough to make it work like ale, 
 and when it begins to settle, pour the liquor into a cask. For 
 twenty gallons put in a gill of finings and the whites and 
 shells of four eggs, stir this briskly, and let it stand six 
 weeks or longer; then bottle it off, and in two months it will 
 be fit for use, but w’ill improve by time. 
 
 To improve Wine that is becoming acid. 
 
 To each gallon of wine allow one ounce of bitter almonds, 
 blanch and bruise them in brandy, draw the wine off, put the 
 almonds into the cask, and the wine to them; as soon as the 
 acidity is gone oft' bottle it. 
 
 Tj cure a musty Pipe , Hogshead , or any other Vessel of 
 
 Wine 
 
 Apply the soft part of a large fresh wheaten or household 
 loaf to the bung-hole, and let it remain there five, six, o 
 seven days, which will certainly take away the must. 
 
 To make a Match for sweetening Casks. 
 
 Melt some brimstone, and dip into it a coarse linen cloth, 
 of which, when cold, take a piece about one inch broad and 
 i ve long, set it on fire, and put it into the cask, with one end 
 i, stened under the bung, which must be drawn in very tight, 
 
 1 et it remain some hours. 
 
6‘J2 
 
 TO SWEETEN WINES 
 
 To restore JVines that are 'pricked. 
 
 Ra. k the wine down to the lees in another cask, where the 
 lees of good wine are fresh; then take a pint of strong aqua 
 vita;, and scrape half a pound of yellow bees’ wax into it, 
 which, by heating the spirit over a gentle fire, will melt. After 
 this, dip a cloth into it, and when a little dry, set it on fire 
 with a brimstone match, put it into the bung-hole, and stop it 
 up close. Or, Prepare a cask that has been totally emptied, 
 and has had the same kind of wine in it with that which you 
 want to improve. Match it and rack off the wine into it, put¬ 
 ting to every ten gallons two ounces of oyster-shell powder and 
 half an ounce of bay salt; then stir the whole well about, and 
 let it stand till it is fine, which will be in a few days. After¬ 
 wards rack it off into another cask that has been matched, and 
 f you can get the lees of some wine of the same kind, it 
 will be improved still more. Put also a quart of brandy to 
 every ten gallons, and if the cask has been long emptied, you 
 should match it the more on that account, but even a new 
 cask must undergo that process. 
 
 To keep Wines from turning sour. 
 
 Boil a gallon of wine with some beaten oyster shells, and 
 crabs’ claws burnt to powder, in the proportion of an ounce 
 of each to every ten gallons. Strain the liquor through a 
 sieve, and when cold, put it into wine of the same sort, which 
 will acquire a lively taste. A lump of unslacked lime will 
 produce the same effect 
 
 To take away the ill scent of Wines. 
 
 Take a roll of dough stuck well with cloves, hang it in the 
 -ask, and it will extract the ill scent from the liquor to itself. 
 
 To sweeten JVines. 
 
 Infuse a handful of the flowers of clary in thirty gallons 
 of wine ; then add a pound of mustard seed ground dry, put 
 it into a bag, and sink it to the bottom of the cask. When 
 wine is lowering or decaying, take one ounce of roch alum, 
 and reduce it to powder; then draw off*four gallons of the 
 
FININGS FOR WINE. 
 
 693 
 
 liquor, mix the powder with it, and stir it well for an hour. 
 F dl up tlie cask, and when fine, which will be in about a weeK, 
 n.'ttle it off. 
 
 For Wine when ropy. 
 
 Put a piece ol coarse linen cloth upon that end of the cock 
 which goes into the cask. Then rack the wine into a dry 
 one, putting five ounces of powdered alum to thirty gallons. 
 Roll and shake the whole well, and it will soon become fine. 
 
 A much more simple and equally efficacious method, is 
 merely to hang a bunch of hyssop in at the bung-hole. 
 
 To make Oyster-shell Powder. 
 
 Wash the shells clean, and scrape off the yellow part from 
 the outside, lay them on a clear fire till they are red hot; then 
 set them by to cool, take the softest part, powder and sift 
 it through a fine sieve, after which it may be used immediately, 
 or kept in bottles, corked, and laid in a dry place. 
 
 To sweeten a musty Cask. 
 
 Take some dung of a milch cow, when fresh, and mix it 
 with a quantity of warm water, so as to make it sufficiently 
 liquid to pass through a large funnel; previously, however, 
 dissolve in the water two pounds of bay salt, and one of alum. 
 Put the whole into a pot over the fire, stirring it with a stick, 
 and when near boiling, pour it into the cask; then bung it 
 tight, and shake it well for about five or six minutes. Let it 
 remain two hours, then take out the bung to let the vapour 
 escape, after which, replace it, and give the cask another 
 shaking. At the end of two hours, rinse it out with cold 
 water, till it becomes perfectly clear. Then have in readi¬ 
 ness one pound more of bay salt, and a quarter of a pound of 
 alum boiled in a little water, pour the same into the cask, and 
 repeat the process as before. 
 
 Finings for Wine. 
 
 Take the whites and shells of three fresh eggs, beat them 
 in a wooden vessel till they become a thick froth. Add 
 
694- 
 
 CIDER AND PERKY. 
 
 thereto a little wine, and whisk it up again. If the cask be 
 full, take out four or five gallons, and give it a good stirring, 
 next whisk up the finings, and put them in, after which stir 
 the whole well. Drive in the bung, and bore a hole for 
 vent, and in about three days close it with a peg. Or, Dis¬ 
 solve an ounce of isinglass, and the whites and shells of thr e 
 eggs, beat the whole up, and proceed as above. 
 
 Cider and Perry. 
 
 Cider and perry are vinous liquors prepared by the expres¬ 
 sion and fermentation of the juice of apples or pears. For 
 the former, the apples generally used are of a hard and sharp 
 kind, not used for eating. When they are ripe enough co fall 
 from the trees, lay them in heaps, and prior to grinding 
 them, separate the decayed or over-ripe fruit from the rest. 
 Bruise the apples small, and when they are completely 
 mashed, if the quantity is not too large, put the whole into 
 a hair bag, and squeeze it by degrees. Next strain the 
 liquor through a sieve into a cask that has been well matched, 
 after which, mash the pulp with warm water, adding a fourth 
 part to the cider. To make it work kindly, warm a little 
 honey, three whites of eggs, and a small quantity of flour 
 together, put the whole into a fine rag, and let it hang by a 
 string in the middle of the cask; then put in a pint of new 
 ale yeast that has been warmed, and let the liquor purge it¬ 
 self five or six days, after which draw it off from the lees 
 into smaller casks or bottles. If the latter, take care to leave 
 the cider' an inch below the corks, lest the fermentation should 
 cause the bottles to burst. When that effect is apprehended, 
 it may be perceived by the hissing of the air through the 
 corks, on which it w ill be necessary to open them immediately. 
 In winter the bottles and casks should be kept warm, but in 
 summer as cool as possible. To feed the liquor and preserve 
 its strength put a little white sugar into each bottle. Three 
 pounds of sugar-candy bruised may be infused in a gallon of 
 French brandy, and in a day or two added to the hogshead of 
 cider, which must then he stopped close five or six months. 
 But if the cider be rich and well fermented this addition is 
 not necessary. 
 
JJt^UEURS AND CORDIALS. . 
 
 (J96 
 
 Perry is made of full-ripe pears exactly in the same man- 
 ner as cider from apples, only the reduced pulp is not suffered 
 to remain unpressed for any length of time. It is, therefore, 
 to be immediately put into the press between several layers of 
 hair cloths, the liquor being received into a vat, and from 
 thence removed into casks, which must stand in a cool place 
 or the open air, with the bung-holes open. The manage¬ 
 ment of the liquor in fermentation is the same as in cider, 
 only perry does not furnish the same tests to ascertain the 
 proper moment for racking off. When the pears are regu¬ 
 larly ripe, the produce will become tolerably clear and quiet 
 in a few days, and must then be drawn off from the lees. 
 Very high fermentation may be prevented in the same man¬ 
 ner as in cider, but the liquor must be made fine by isinglass, 
 which the other does not require. Perry best retains its 
 pleasant quality in bottles, particularly in summer. It is a 
 lively liquor and may be properly called the English cham¬ 
 pagne, for which, in fact, it is often sold. 
 
 In bottling cider and perry the liquor should be left un¬ 
 corked a day or two to get flat. We subjoin a list of apples 
 and pears recommended for cider and perry, from the best 
 authority. 
 
 Cider apples.—Herefordshire redstreaks—The golden 
 pippin—The fox whelp—The hayloe crab—The orange 
 pippin—The foxley—The best bache—Siberian harvey— 
 Sheads kernel apple—-Garter apple—Old pearmain—Friar— 
 Dowton pippin—Grange apple—Bringewood pippin—Golden 
 harvey. Perry pears.—The Teinton squash pear—Holmore 
 pear—The huff-cap—Barland pear. 
 
 LIQUEURS AND CORDIALS. 
 
 Ratafia. 
 
 Blanch two ounces of peach and apricot kernels, bruise, 
 an 1 nut them into a bottle, and fdl nearly up with brandy 
 
696 
 
 RASPBERRY BRANDY. 
 
 Dissolve half a pound of white sugarcandy in a cup of cold 
 water, and add to the brandy after it has stood a month on 
 the kernels, and they are strained off; then filter through 
 paper, and bottle for use. The leaves of peach and necta¬ 
 rines, when the trees are cut in the spring, being distilled, 
 are an excellent substitute for ratafia in puddings 
 
 Common Ratafia. 
 
 Take an ounce of bruised nutmegs, a half-pound cf bitter 
 almonds, blanched and chopped, and a grain of ambergris, 
 well rubbed with sugar in a mortar. Infuse in two quarts of 
 proof-spirit for two weeks and filter. 
 
 Red Ratafia. 
 
 Six pounds of the black-heart cherry, one of small black 
 cherries or geens, and two of raspberries and strawberries. 
 Bruise the fruit, and when it has stood some time, drain off 
 the juice, and to every pint add four ounces of the best re¬ 
 fined sugar, or of syrup, and a quart of the best brandy. 
 Strain it through a jelly-bag, and flavour to taste, with a half¬ 
 ounce of cinnamon and a drachm of cloves, bruised and infused 
 in brandy for a fortnight before. 
 
 Noyeau. 
 
 Three ounces of bitter almonds blanched and bruised in a 
 mortar, put to them one quart of common gin, and the rind of 
 a lemon shaved thin ; put all in a bottle near the fire for four 
 or five days: then add one pound of loaf sugar just dissolved 
 in warm water, so as to make it liquid ; let it stand three or 
 four days, shake it frequently, filter through blotting paper 
 It improves by keeping. 
 
 Raspberry Brandy. 
 
 Pick fine dry fruit, put into a stone jar, and the jar into a 
 kettle of water, or on a hot hearth, till the juice will run; 
 strain, and to every pint add half a pound of sugar, give one 
 boil, and skim it; when cold, put equal quantities of juice and 
 brandy, shake well, and bottle. Some people prefer it stronger 
 of the brandy. 
 
NORFOLK PUNCH 
 
 697 
 
 Cherry Brandy. 
 
 Pick morello, or black cherries, from the stalks, and drop 
 them into bottles, till the bottles are three quarters full; fill 
 up with brandy or whisky. In three weeks strain off the 
 spirits, and season with cinnamon and clove mixture, as in 
 last receipt, adding syrup to taste. Ratafia should not be 
 sweet. A second weaker decoction may be obtained by pour¬ 
 ing more spirits on the fruit. 
 
 Black Cherry Brandy. 
 
 Put to three quarts of brandy four pounds of stoned 
 black cherries; bruise the stones, and add them to the mix¬ 
 ture. Infuse for a month; filter, and add the flavouring in¬ 
 gredients and syrup, as directed above. A second infusion 
 may be made, which will require more seasoning than that 
 first drawn. Some persons reject all perfumes in compounds 
 of this kind. 
 
 Usquebaugh , or Irish Cordial. 
 
 To two quarts of the best brandy, or whisky without a 
 a smoky taste, put a pound of stoned raisins, half an ounce of 
 nutmegs, a quarter of an ounce of cloves, the same quantity 
 of cardamoms, all bruised in a mortar; the rind of a Seville 
 orange, rubbed off on lumps of sugar, a little tincture of saf¬ 
 fron, and half a pound of brown candy-sugar. Shake the 
 infusion every day for a fortnight, and filter it for use. It 
 is sometimes tinged of a fine green with the juice of spinage. 
 
 Norfolk Punch. 
 
 In twenty quarts of French brandy put the peels of thirty 
 lemons and thirty oranges, pared so thin that not the least of 
 the white is left. Infuse twelve hours. Have ready thirty 
 quarts of cold water that has boiled; put to it fifteen pounds 
 of double-refined sugar; and when well mixed, pour it upon 
 the brandy and peels, adding the juice of the oranges and of 
 twenty-four lemons; mix well, then strain through a very 
 fine hair-sieve, into a very clean barrel that has held spirits, 
 and put two quarts of new milk. Stir, and then bung it 
 

 MACARONI CORDIAL. 
 
 close; let it stand six weeks in a warm cellar; bottle the 
 liquor for use, observing great care that the bottles are per 
 fectly clean and dry, and the corks of the best quality, and 
 well put in. This liquor will keep many years, and improves 
 by age. 
 
 Another way.—Pare six lemons and three Seville oranges 
 very thin, squeeze the juice into a large tea-pot, put to it two 
 quarts of brandy, one of white wine_ and one of milk, and 
 one pound and a quarter of sugar. Let it be mixed, and 
 then covered for twenty-four hours ; strain through a jelly- 
 bag till clear, then bottle it. 
 
 Rum or Brandy Shrub. 
 
 This is made by adding the juice and an infusion of the 
 rind of Seville oranges to rum or brandy, with a little syrup 
 and plain water or orange-flower water. Honey, raisin-wine, 
 porter, citric acid, &c. are also employed. 
 
 Aromatic Tincture. 
 
 Take an ounce of bruised cinnamon, and an ounce of the 
 seeds of the lesser cardamom; take also an ounce of bruised 
 ginger, two drachms of long pepper, and a quart of spirits. 
 Infuse this for a fortnight, keeping it in a warm place, and 
 strain for use. Two or three tea-spoonfuls may be taken in a 
 little capillaire, or eau sucre , or in wine with a little water, or 
 without. This tincture is cordial; and, in cases of indiges¬ 
 tion and languor, is considered restorative. 
 
 Macaroni Cordial. 
 
 Infuse for a fortnight in nine pints of brandy, a pound of 
 bitter almonds, with a little Bohemian or Spanish angelica- 
 root beaten together, shaking the vessel often At the end 
 of that time, put the whole into a cucurbite, and distil it h 
 a water bath. Five pints of spirit, thus impregnated with 
 the flavour of the almonds and angelica, make a syrup with 
 five pounds of sugar, two quarts of eau-de-mille-fleurs, and 
 three quarts of common distilled water. When this is mixed 
 with the spirits, add thirty drops of the essence of lemons 
 after which, filtdr it through blotting paper. 
 
CORDIAL WATERS. 
 
 Brunswick Mum. 
 
 Take sixty-three gallons of clear water that has been pre¬ 
 viously boiled to the reduction of a third part; then brew it 
 with seven bushels of wheaten malt, and one bushel each of 
 oatmeal and ground beans. When tunned, the hogshead 
 must not be too full, and on its beginning to work, put in 
 three pounds of fir and birch tops, three handfuls of the car- 
 duus bcncdictus, a handful or two of rose leaves, a handful 
 and a half each of burnet, betony, savins, marjoram, penny¬ 
 royal, and mother of thyme, two or more handfuls of elder 
 flowers, three ounces of bruised cardamoms, and an ounce of 
 bruised barberries. The herbs and seeds are not to be put 
 into the cask till the liquor has worked for some time, after 
 which it should be suffered to flow over as little as possible. 
 Lastly, fill it up on its ceasing to ferment, and when done, put 
 in ten new laid eggs unbroken or cracked, stop it up close, 
 and at the end of two years it will be fit for use. To make 
 mum like ale barley malt is substituted for wheat. 
 
 Enr/lish Hypocras. 
 
 Infuse for a few hours in about three quarts of white wine 
 one pound and a half of loaf sugar, an ounce of cinnamon, 
 two or three tops of sweet marjoram, and a little long pepper, 
 all beaten in a mortar. Ilun the liquor through a filtering 
 bag, with a grain of musk, and add thereto the juice of a 
 large lemon; warm it moderately over the fire, pour it again 
 on the spicery, and when it has stood three or four days, 
 strain it off', and bottle it for use. If wanted to be red, port 
 wine may be used, or the liquor coloured with the juice of 
 eider or mulberries, cochineal, &c. 
 
 CORDIAL OR FRAGRANT WATERS. 
 
 In extracting the virtues of plants by distillation, an alem¬ 
 bic must be used, the top of which is to be filled with cold 
 water, and the bottom closed with a stiff' paste made of flour 
 
TOO 
 
 BLACK CHERRY WATER. 
 
 and water. Little fire is requisite, but it must be clear, and 
 the water on the top continually changed, so as never to be¬ 
 come scalding. All simple waters should stand two or three 
 days before they are worked off, to let the fiery taste pass 
 away. 
 
 iMvender Water. 
 
 To every quart of water add a pint of lavender flowers 
 picked from the stalks. Put them into a cold still over a 
 slow fire. Distil very slowly, and put it into a pot till the 
 whole is done. Then clean out the still, put the lavender 
 water into it, and distil it again as slowly as before. After 
 wards bottle it for use r , 
 
 Peppermint. 
 
 Gather ttie peppermint when full grown, and before at 
 seeds, cut it into short pieces, put them into the still, and 
 cover them with water. Make a good fire underneath, and 
 when near boiling, and the still begins to drop, if the heat is 
 too great, draw a little away, that it may not boil over. The 
 slower the still drops, the stronger will be the water. The 
 next day bottle it off, and after standing two or three days 
 cork it well. 
 
 Poppy Water. 
 
 Put a peck of poppies and two gallons of good brandy 
 into a wide-mouthed glass, let them stand forty-eight hours, 
 and then strain the whole off. Stone a pound of raisins of 
 the sun, and take an ounce each of coriander seed, swee 
 fennel seeds, and liquorice root sliced, bruise all together 
 and put them into the brandy, with a pound of powdered 
 sugar, and let them stand four or eight weeks, shaking them 
 every day. Then strain off the liquor and bottle it for use 
 
 Black Cherry Water. 
 
 Bruise six pounds of black cherries, and put to them a 
 handful each of the tops of rosemary, sweet marjoram, spear¬ 
 mint, angelica, balm, and marigold flowers, an ounce of dried 
 violets, and half an ounce each of aniseeds, and sweet fennel 
 
ORANGE AND LEMON WATERS. 701 
 
 seed. Cut. the herbs small, mi* all together, aod distil 
 them in a cold still. 
 
 Cinnamon Water. 
 
 Simmer one pound of bruised cinnamon, and two gallons of 
 water, in a still for hall 3n hour, put what comes over into 
 the still again, and when cold, strain it through flannel. 
 
 Rose Water. 
 
 The roses should be gathered when dry and full-blown, 
 pick off the leaves, and to every peck put a quart of water. 
 Then put them into a cold still, and make a slow fire under it, 
 for the slower it is distilled the better it will be. Bottle it, 
 and in two or three days cork it for use. 
 
 Hungary Water. 
 
 Take seven pounds of the tops of rosemary with the 
 leaves and flowers, six gallons of rectified spirits, and two 
 quarts of water, and distil off five gallons with a moderate 
 fire. 
 
 Angelica Water . 
 
 Take eight handfuls of the leaves of angelica, washed and 
 cut, and when dry 9 put them into an earthen vessel, with four 
 quarts of strong wine lees, to infuse for twenty hours, stir¬ 
 ring it twice in that time. Then put it into a warm still or 
 alembic, and draw it off. Cover the bottles with paper, prick 
 holes therein, let it stand two or three days, and then mix all 
 together, sweeten it, and wher bottled stop it close. 
 
 Orange and Lemon Waters. 
 
 Put three gallons of brandy, and two quarts of white wine, 
 to the external rinds of one hundred oranges or lemons, steep 
 them one night, and the next day distil them in a cold still. 
 A gallon with the proportion of peels will be enough for one 
 still, which will yield above three quarts. Draw it off till it 
 begins to taste sour; then sweeten it with double-refined 
 sugar, and mix the first, second, and third runnings together. 
 Lemon water should be perfumed with two grains of amber- 
 
703 MANAGEMENT OF THE DAIRY, 
 
 gris, and one of music, ground fine, tied in a rag, and hung 
 five or six days in each bottle, or put therein three drops of 
 the tincture of ambergris. Cork it tight for use. 
 
 ■ Imperial Water. 
 
 Put two ounces of cream of tartar in a jar, with the juice 
 and peels of two lemons, pour thereon seven quarts of boil¬ 
 ing water, and when cold, strain it through a gauze sieve, 
 Bottle it up, and keep it for use. 
 
 Honey Water. 
 
 Coriander seeds a pound, cassia four ounces, cloves and 
 gum benzoin two ounces each, oil of rhodium, essence of 
 lemon, essence of bergamot, and oil of lavender, each one 
 drachm, rectified spirits of wine two gallons, rose water two 
 quarts, nutmeg water one quart, musk and ambergris each 
 twelve grains. Distil the whole in a water bath till dry.— 
 Or, put two drachms of tincture of ambergris, and as much 
 tincture of musk, in a quart of rectified spirits of wine, and 
 * half a pint of water. Filter it, and pour it into small bottles. 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE DAIRY, POULTRY YARD, 
 
 &c. 
 
 In this department of the work it is desirable to make a 
 few remarks on the management of the animal, the dairy, and 
 the produce. 
 
 With respect to the choice of a cow, it must in a great 
 measure be left to the taste of the purchaser. The hand¬ 
 somest cows are not always the most pniductive. A small 
 plump udder and round tight teat will be generally found to 
 give more and better milk than a large hanging udder. Sup¬ 
 posing the cows to be of a good sort and well fed, the average 
 produce of each cow should be from Lady Day to Michael- 
 
POULTRY YARD, &C. 
 
 7fl3 
 
 mas three gallons daily, and from Michaelmas to Chr istmas one 
 gallon daily. For making cheese, the cows should calve from 
 March to May, that they may all yield an abundant supply 
 at the same time ; but where the object is to secure a regular 
 supply of milk, cream, and butter, for a family, one or more 
 cows should calve in August or September. The lodging place 
 of a cow should be dry, clean, and warm. The floor should 
 6e sloped a little, and paved with flag stones. The manger 
 kept perfectly clean, and free from sour grains, vegetables, 
 &c. She should be regularly fed at sun-rise, sun-set, and 
 once or twice in the day besides. She should be allowed ex¬ 
 ercise in the open air. Her best food is good fresh grass, 
 which she may either be allowed to graze, or have it cut and 
 brought to her: by the latter plan the grass goes further: 
 her diet may occasionally be varied with cabbages, lettuce, 
 Swedish turnips, and carrots. Potatoes to be avoided ; or, if 
 given at all, must be boiled or baked: common turnips are 
 poor and watery food, bu Swedish turnips nourishing: of 
 carrots she may be allowed two pecks daily. Pure water is 
 of great consequence to her health and productiveness. The 
 hours of milking should be regular and early, not later than 
 five o’clock either morning or evening. Be careful that the 
 udder is perfectly drained.* 
 
 When a cow is near calving, she should be under shelter 
 in a roomy place, and not tied up; some warm water should 
 be given her, and a warm mash or two, with some sweet hay. 
 The calf must be allowed to suck the first milk, till the flow 
 has abated, and there is no danger of inflammation; if the 
 calf be weak, it should be held up to the teat. Some young 
 cows have the udders stretched and inflamed two or three 
 days before calving; in this case they may be relieved by 
 drawing off part of the milk daily. 
 
 The churns, pans, shelves, floor, walls, and every thing 
 about the dairy, must be kept perfectly clean. The pans 
 
 * The habit of leaving milk in the udder is greatly iiijurious to the 
 health and productiveness of the cow, beside being extremely wasteful; 
 every succeeding drop of milk is idler than the one before it: die last 
 half pint gives tueive tvices as much butter as tluj first. 
 
704 
 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE DAIRY, &C. 
 
 should be often boiled, and scalded with boiling water every 
 time of using.* The strainers and butter cloths must be 
 very thoroughly washed and dried in the open air, and the 
 utmost care taken that nothing in the dairy acquires a sour 
 smell. 
 
 As to the management of the milk, if the cow is feeding 
 on turnips, a small piece of nitre (saltpetre) should be put 
 into the pail before milking, to prevent any ill taste. As 
 soon as brought in it must be strained into large flat pans, or 
 lids of wood or tin. The cream must be skimmed off at 
 *welve hours in summer, and at twenty-four hours in winter. 
 Let the cream be shifted into clean pans, daily in winter, 
 twice a day in summer: stirring it several times a day with a 
 wooden spatula. Churning should take place at least twice a 
 week during summer. The cream must be strained into the 
 churn through a fine sieve or linen cloth. When once the 
 process of churning is commenced, no cessation must take 
 place until it be accomplished. Butter ought not to come, 
 in less than three quarters of an hour. In summer the churn 
 should be filled with cold water an hour or so before churning, 
 and placed in a tub of cold water during churning. In very 
 cold weather the churn may be placed near the fire, or warmed 
 with water. . If the butter is very backward, a table-spoonful 
 or two, (according to the quantity of cream) of good vinegar, 
 may be mixed with a small quantity of warm milk, and put 
 in the churn. When the butter is thoroughly come, strain 
 off the buttermilk, and put the butter into cold water; after¬ 
 wards divide it into small lumps over a sloping board: beat it 
 well with a wooden spatula until entirely free from milk and 
 quite firm, a little salt may be added if approved. Then 
 divide and weigh it: make it up either in pats or rolls, lay¬ 
 ing each separately on a damp cloth to prevent their sticking. 
 
 • In very hot dry weather pans may be thoroughly washed in cold 
 water, then placed in the influence of the sun all day, bringing them in 
 just in time to be cool for receiving the milk. This will answer for seve¬ 
 ral davs. or even a week, at which intervals they must he scalded as 
 usual : observe, this method will not do except when the sun has very 
 great power. 
 
I)UTC1I METHOD OF MAKING BUTTER. 
 
 705 
 
 To keep Milk and Cream. 
 
 When the weather is hot, milk and cream may be kept 
 perfectly sweet by scalding it very gently, without boil¬ 
 ing, in broad shallow pans, or a jar set in a boiler of hot 
 water. Cream already skimmed may be kept twenty-four 
 hours if scalded without sugar; and by adding to it as much 
 powdered lump sugar as will make it tolerably sweet, it will 
 be good for some days, when set in a cool place. The prac¬ 
 tice of keeping milk in leaden vessels, and salted butter in 
 stone jars, is very detrimental. Wooden tubs are both most 
 wholesome and cleanly. 
 
 To increase the Quantity of Cream. 
 
 When the new milk comes into the dairy, put it into a 
 pan that has previously lain in boiling water, and cover it 
 with another that has done tne same. This will both thicken 
 the cream, and increase its quantity. 
 
 To preserve Cream Sweet. 
 
 Dissolve twelve ounces of white sugar in as little water as 
 possible, after which, boil it in a pipkin, and immediately add 
 twelve ounces of new cream, mixing the whole while hot. 
 Let it cool gradually, and pour it into a bottle, which must 
 be carefully corked. Keep it in a cool place, and it will be 
 good for weeks. 
 
 Dutch Method of making Butter. 
 
 The milk, immediately after it comes from the cows, is left 
 to cool in pans, but not suffered to stand, for the cream to 
 rise, more than four hours. It is then stirred all together, 
 that the milk and cream may be thoroughly incorporated, and 
 the same is done two or three times a day. The thicker the 
 mass becomes by this agitation, the more it is esteemed. 
 When the proper consistency has been obtained, it is churned 
 for about an hcur, or until the butter is formed. Cold water 
 is then added, according to the quantity of the milk, in order 
 to separate the thin fluid, or buttermilk. The butter being 
 
 4 x 
 
PRESERVING BUTTER FOR WINTER. 
 
 properly come, it is taken from the churn, washed, and 
 kneaded in fresh water till all the buttermilk is thoroughly 
 expressed. By this process, the Dutch are enabled to make 
 larger quantities, from the same proportion of eream, than 
 the English, while the buttermilk is more agreeable. 
 
 There are several methods of preserving butter for winter, 
 use the following as among the most approved. 
 
 Dr. Anderson's Method. 
 
 Take two parts of the best common salt, one part of good 
 loaf-sugar, and one part of saltpetre ; beat them well together. 
 To sixteen ounces of butter, thoroughly cleansed from the 
 milk, put one ounce of this composition; work it well, and 
 pot down when become firm and cold. The butter thus pre¬ 
 served is the better for keeping, and should not be used under 
 a month. This article should be kept from the air, and is 
 best in pots of the best unglazed earth, that will hold from ten 
 to fourteen pounds each. 
 
 Another way.—Let the salt be thoroughly dried before 
 the fire, and then rolled with a glass bottle till perfectly fine. 
 Have a wooden tub, or jar, of Nottingham stone ware un¬ 
 glazed ; put a layer of salt at the bottom, then pot the butter, 
 and press it down with a hard wooden rammer; cover the top 
 with a thick layer of salt, so that when turned to brine it 
 shall entirelv cover the butter. 
 
 Another way.—Having beaten the butter entirely free of 
 butter-milk, work it quickly up, allowing a scanty half¬ 
 ounce of pounded salt to the pound. Let the butter lie for 
 twenty-four hours, or more, and then, for every pound, allow 
 an ounce of the following mixture :—Take four ounces of 
 salt, two of loaf-sugar, and a half-ounce of saltpetre. Beat 
 them all well together, and having worked up the butter very 
 well, pack it for use in jars or kits. This method of twice 
 salting butter only requires to be known to come into gene¬ 
 ra/ use. It effectually preserves the butter without so much 
 salt being employed as to give it a rank and disagreeable taste. 
 Summer-butter requires a little more salt than what is cured 
 in autumn. Instead of strewing a layer of salt on the top, 
 
TO SCALD CREAM. 
 
 701 
 
 which makes a part of the butter useless for the table, place 
 a layer of the above mixture in thin folds of muslin, stitch 
 loosely, and lay this neatly over the jar, which will effectually 
 exclude the air. 
 
 To purify Rancid Butler. 
 
 Melt and skim the butter as you would do for clarifying, 
 and then put iuto it some toasted bread. In a few minutes 
 the butter will lose its offensive smell, but the bread will be¬ 
 come fetid. 
 
 To freshen Salt Butter. 
 
 Put four pounds of salt butter into a churn, with four 
 quarts of new milk, and a little annatto. Churn these toge¬ 
 ther, and in about an hour take out the butter, and treat it 
 as you would fresh, by washing it in water, and adding to it 
 some salt. By this means the butter gains about three 
 ounces in every pound. A common earthen churn will an¬ 
 swer the purpose as well as a wooden one. 
 
 To manage Cream for Whey Butter. 
 
 Set the whey one day and night, skim it, and continue till 
 vou have enough ; then boil it, and pour it into a pan or two 
 of cold water. As the cream rises, skim it till no more comes; 
 then churn it. Where new-milk cheese is made daily, whey 
 butter for common and present use may be made to advan¬ 
 tage. 
 
 To scald Cream as in the West of England. 
 
 In winter let the milk stand twenty-four hours, in the sum¬ 
 mer twelve at least; then put the milk-pan on a hot hearth, if 
 you have one; if not, set it in a wide brass kettle of water 
 large enough to receive the pan. It must remain on the fire 
 till quite hot, but on no account boil, or there will be a skim 
 instead of cream upon the milk. You will know when it is 
 done enough by the unadulations on the surface looking thick, 
 and having a ring round the pan the size of the bottom. The 
 time required to scald cream depends on the size cf the pan 
 and the heat of the fire; the slower the better. Remove 
 the pan into the dairy when done, and skint it next day. In 
 fine weather k may stand thirty-six hours, and never less than 
 
708 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 two meals. The butter is usually made in Devonshire uf 
 cream thus prepared, and if done properly, it is very firm. 
 
 Butter Milk, 
 
 If made of sweet cream, is a delicious and most wholesome 
 food. Those who can relish sour butter milk find it still 
 more light; and it is reckoned more beneficial in consumptive 
 eases. Butter milk, if not very sour, is also as good as cream 
 to eat with fruit, if sweetened with white su^ar, and mixed 
 with a very little milk. It likewise does equally well for cakes 
 and rice puddings, and of course it is economical to churn 
 before the cream is too stale for any thing but to feed pigs. 
 
 Syrup of Cream 
 
 May be preserved, as directed p. 705, in the proportion of 
 H pound and a quarter of sugar to a pint of perfectly fresh 
 cream ; keep it in a cool place for two or three hours; then 
 put it in one or two ounce phials, and cork it close. It will 
 keep thus good for several weeks, and will be found very useful 
 in voyages. 
 
 Gallino Curds and Whey as in Italy. 
 
 T ake a number of the rough coats that line the gizzards of 
 turkeys and fowls; clean them from the pebbles they contain ; 
 rub them well with salt, and hang them to dry. This makes 
 a more tender and delicate curd than common rennet.* When 
 to be used, break off some bits of the skin, and put on it 
 some boiling water; in eight or nine hours use the liquor as 
 you do other rennet. 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 If very/rich cheese be desired, new milk only must be used , 
 it may, however, be made of half new and half skimmed milk, 
 :r even of skimmed milk alone. The milk must be made 
 »3 warm as new milk—not warmer, or it will harden the 
 
 * The rennet is the stomach of a calf taken out as soon as killed. It 
 must be cleaned from the curdled milk which it contains, then scoured in¬ 
 side and out with salt; and when well salted, stretched on a stick to d v 
 
CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 70 1 
 
 cheese Put in rennet enough to turn it, and cover it over 
 When thoroughly turned, gently gather the curd with the 
 hands to the sides of the tub, letting the whey pass through 
 the fingers till the whole is cleared, and lading it off as it 
 collects. The vat, or mould in which the cheese is to be 
 formed, is next to be placed over the tub with a straining 
 cloth spread inside, large enough to cover the whole cheese . 
 the curd must then be put in with the skimmer, and pressed 
 close down with the hand. There should be holes in the 
 bottom and sides of the vat to let the whey escape; as the 
 curd sinks add more; finally leaving two inches above the 
 edge. The mass must be salted either by mingling salt with 
 the curd when separated from the whey, or by putting salt 
 in the vat; and after the curd has been dried, crushing it all 
 to pieces among the salt by squeezing with the hands. Next 
 lay a board under and over the vat, and put it in the press; 
 in two hours turn it out and put on a fresh cheese cloth ; 
 press it again for eight or nine hours, and then salt it all over; 
 turn it again in the vat, and let it stand in the press fourteen 
 or sixteen hours, taking care to put the cheeses last made 
 under all. Before putting them the last time in the vat, the 
 edges should be pared to make the cheese look smooth. 
 
 To make Sage Cheese. 
 
 Bruise the tops of young red sage in a mortar, with some 
 leaves of spinach, and squeeze the juice ; mix it with the ren¬ 
 net in the milk, more or less according as you like for colour 
 and taste. When the curd is come, break it gently, and put 
 it in with the skimmer till it is pressed two inches above one 
 vat. Press it eight or ten hours. Salt it, and turn every 
 day. 
 
 Cream Cheese. 
 
 Put five quarts of strippings, that is, the last of the milk, 
 into a pan, with two spoonfuls of rennet. When the curd is 
 come, strike it down two or three limes with the skimming- 
 dish just to break it. Let it stand two hours, then spread a 
 cheese-cloth on a sieve ; put the curd on it, and let the whey 
 
710 
 
 RUSH CREAM CHEESE. 
 
 drain ; break the curd a little with your hand, and put it 
 into a vat with a two-pound weight upon it. Let it stand 
 twelve hours, take it out, and bind a fillet round. Turn every 
 day till dry, from one board to another: cover them with net¬ 
 tles, or clean dock-leaves, and put between two pewter plates to 
 ripen. If the weather be warm, it will be ready in three weeks. 
 
 Another way.—Have ready a kettle of boiling water, put 
 five quarts of new milk into a pan, and five pints of cold 
 water, and five of hot; when of a proper heat, put in as much 
 rennet as will bring it in twenty minutes, likewise a bit of 
 sugar. When come, strike the skimmer three or four times 
 down, and leave it on the curd. In an hour two lade it 
 into the vat without touching; put a two-pour. I weight on 
 when the whey has run from it, and the vat is full. 
 
 Another way.—Put as much salt to three pints of raw 
 cream as shall season it : stir it w’ell, and pour it into a sieve 
 in w'hich you have folded a cheese-cloth three or four times, 
 and laid at the bottom. When it hardens, cover it with net 
 ties on a pewter plate. 
 
 Hush Cream Cheese, 
 
 To a quart of fresh cream put a pint of new milk, warm 
 enough to make the cream a proper warmth, a bit of sugar, 
 and a little rennet. Set near the fire till the curd comes ; fill 
 a vat, made in the form of a brick, of wheat-straw or rushes 
 sewed together. Have ready a square of straw, or rushes 
 sewed flat, to rest the vat on, and another to cover it; the 
 vat being open at top and bottom. Next day take it out, and 
 change it as above to ripen. A half-pound weight will be 
 sufficient to put on it. 
 
 Another way. lake a pint of very thick sour cream from 
 the top of the pan for gathering butter, lay a napkin on two 
 plates, and pour half into each, let them stand twelve hours, 
 then put them on a fresh wet napkin in one plate, and cover 
 with the same ; this do every twelve hours until you find the 
 cheese begins to look dry, then ripen it with nut-leaves; it 
 will be ready in ten days. fresh nettles, or two pewter plates 
 •will ripen cream-cheese very well. 
 
IMITATION OF CHESHIRE CHEESE. 
 
 rt\ 
 
 Gloucester Green Cheese. 
 
 Lor a cheese of ten or twelve pounds take about two 
 handfuls of sage, and one of marigold leaves, and parsley, 
 bruise and steep them’.all night in milk. Next day strain 
 off the milk, and mix with it about a third of the quantity 
 required, but run the greened and clear milk separately, 
 and keep the two curds also apart till both are ready for the 
 vat. The mode of mixing them depends on fancy. Some 
 crumble the two ends together, mixing them intimately, 
 while others break the green curd into fragments, or cut it 
 into figures with tins made for the purpose. In vatting, the 
 fragments are placed on the outside, first laying the bottom of 
 the vat with them, and crumbling the white of the yellow curd 
 among them. 
 
 Stilton Cheese. 
 
 Put the cream that has been produced in the night into 
 the next morning’s milk, with the rennet; but the curd, in¬ 
 stead of being broken, is to be taken out altogether. Place 
 it on a sieve, and while draining, gradually keep gently 
 pressing it, till it has acquired a consistency; then place it 
 in a wooden hoop, and keep it dry on boards ; turning it fre¬ 
 quently, and bind a cloth round it, tightening the same as 
 occasion requires. In some dairies the cheese, after being 
 taken out of the hoop, is bound tight round with a cloth, 
 which is changed every day till the cheese stands in need of 
 no farther support. After taking off the cloth it must be 
 rubbed every day for two or three months with a brush, and 
 
 when the weather is damp this should be done twice a day. 
 
 / 
 
 Imitation of Cheshire Cheese. 
 
 When the milk is set, and the curd has come, it must be 
 drawn on one side with the hands, and broken gently and 
 regularly, otherwise much of the richness will go into the 
 whey. Put the curd into the cheese vat, and, when full, 
 press and turn it often, salting it at different times. The 
 size of each cheese is usually about eight inches in thicic* 
 ness, and it is not usual to cut one under twelve months, our- 
 
713 
 
 TO PRESERVE CHEESE SOUND. 
 
 ing time which it must be frequently turned and rubbed. At 
 the end of the year a hole may be cut in the top, and about a 
 quarter of a pint of white wine poured in; then stop up the 
 cavity, and set the cheese in a wine cellar for six months 
 longer. 
 
 Net Cheese. 
 
 -Net cheeses made in Wiltshire, and prepared in most 
 respects like others, but it is observable, that they are never 
 eyed, as it is called. In making them, the curd is squeezed 
 with the hand as closely and tightly as possible into the net, 
 and to this natural pressure may be ascribed the circumstance 
 of the cheeses being free from the defects which attend those 
 made in the ordinary way. 
 
 Marigold Cheese. 
 
 Pick the best coloured and freshest leaves you can g t, 
 pound them in a mortar, and strain out the juice, which must 
 be put into the milk at the same time with the rennet, and 
 both stirred together. The milk being set, and the curd 
 come, break it as gently and equally as you can; then put 
 it into the vat, and press it with a moderate weight, and have 
 holes at the bottom to let out the whey. 
 
 To preserve Cheese Sound 
 
 Wash and wipe it with whey once a month, and keep 
 It on a rack. If you want to ripen it, place it in a damp 
 cellar. When a whole cheese is cut, the larger quantity 
 should be spread with butter on the inside, and the coat wiped. 
 To keep what is used moist, wrap round it a cloth that has 
 been wrung out in cold water. Dry cheese may be advan¬ 
 tageously used by grating it with macaroni. Some cheeses, 
 especially those made in Gloucestershire, are highly coloured 
 with annatto, which is perfectly harmless; but as many per 
 sons use red lead for cheapness, families would do well to 
 avoid purchasing cheese which has that appearance. We 
 have also been lately informed of dealers, who, in order to 
 give a blue mould to their cheese, have inserted into them 
 
PIGS 
 
 7i8 
 
 pieces of copper or brass, the consequences of which have been, 
 in some instances, fatal; for the dainty morsel thus produced 
 is verdigris 
 
 PIGS. 
 
 Where cows are kept, pigs are generally kept also. The 
 spare milk constitutes a great portion of their food, and much 
 more is furnished in the inferior parts of vegetables, the prime 
 of which is used for the cows. It is generally thought that 
 breeding sows do not answer so well as buying those of about 
 four months old, early in spring; however for those who 
 choose to keep a sow;—at the time of her bringing forth she 
 wants good attention, being careless, and apt to roll over her 
 pigs, or otherwise injure them. The first food should con¬ 
 sist of nourishing wash, pot-liquor, or milk thickened with fine 
 pollard and barley meal; the same food is proper for the 
 young pigs. At this time the sow requires to be well fed; 
 so indeed she does before pigging; it is a very false notion to 
 have her spare at that time; if she be so, the pigs will be 
 worth nothing; and her strength be completely reduced by a 
 week’s suckling. 
 
 Besides two meals daily, as above directed, she should 
 have one of dry meat; as a pint of peas or beans, with half a 
 peck of carrots, boiled potatoes, or the like; potatoes alone 
 are a poor dependence ; and the young pigs ought not to be 
 fed with them, or with any loose vegetable trash, until three 
 months old. The sow may be let out to air herself at plea¬ 
 sure, and after awhile the pigs to accompany her, but never in 
 bad weather. The pigs may be weaned at two months old, 
 after which the sow should be shut up, and well fed; she 
 should farrow in January and July. The sucking pigs will 
 be fit for use from three to five weeks old. If intended for 
 rearing, when weaned, they should have at least a month of 
 delicate feeding, warm lodging and care ; the same food as 
 while they were with the mother. They may indeed be 
 reared much cheaper, but not so profitably. From four 
 
 4 Y 
 
7'4 
 
 RABBITS. 
 
 months old, or rather less, a pig will graze, eat tops and stumps 
 of cabbages, Swedish turnips, in short, any thing of that kind, 
 that is otherwise useless , all dish wash and pot liquor, grains 
 if you brew, a little of any ^iui of coni, beans, oats, barley, 
 rye, buck-wheat, or tares; linseety boiled with potatoes, makes 
 good wash. Any kind of corn may be given to pigs in the 
 straw; they are good threshers. ITirough the summer 
 months they will chiefly support themselves abroad, upon 
 clover, lucerne, or tares; and in autumn upon acorns. Very 
 young pigs especially ought not to be left abroad in continual 
 rains; and they will always pay for a feed of old beans with 
 their clover. 
 
 As to fattening, it may be conducted either in confinement 
 or at large in a yard; they thrive best singly ; they should 
 be fed, if possible, three times a day; taking care to allow 
 just so much, that the animal may be thoroughly satisfied, 
 and the trough entirely cleared: by this plan the animal will 
 fatten most speedily and effectually, while needless waste is pre¬ 
 vented. The pig must now be allowed no more clover, acorns, 
 or potatoes. Skimmed milk, and pea, oat, or barley meal, 
 make the best food, and answer the best too; the meat so led 
 being superior to any other in flavour, substance, and weight; 
 bean-fed pork is hard and ill-flavoured. A pig will eat two 
 or three pecks of corn a week; a hog upwards of a bushel, 
 according to his size; his allowance should be gradually in¬ 
 creased. Do not grudge him food ; he cannot eat too much. 
 A poor fed pig is worse than no pig at all; the pig and 
 his sty should be kept very clean ; he should be frequently 
 washed and combed, and he will thrive all the better for it. 
 His food, as much as possible, should be given hot. From 
 November to March is the best season for killing. 
 
 RABBITS. 
 
 They should be kept in a warm and dry place, and yet any 
 and very clean; each rabbit hutch sttould have two rooms, cme 
 
RABBITS. 
 
 71ft 
 
 for feeding and one for sleeping in; their troughs should be 
 bound with tin, as they are apt to gnaw the wood; the 
 hutches should stand a foot or more from the ground, for the 
 convenience of cleaning them; they should also be set a little 
 sloping backwards, with a very small hole or crack at which 
 the urine may run off. The dung of these animals is very 
 valuable, and, if intended for sale, should be carefully kept 
 free from litter. 
 
 The food proper for rabbits is oats, peas, wheat, pollard, 
 buck-wheat, carrots, parsnips, Jerusalem artichokes (if pota¬ 
 toes are used, they must be baked or steamed), lucerne, cab¬ 
 bage leaves, clover, tares, furze, parsley, sow thistles, lettuce, 
 dandelion roots, clover and meadow hay, pea and bean straw ; if 
 grains are given, they must be mixed with good dry meal or 
 pollard. They should be fed at least twice, and if possible three 
 times a day. Rabbits may indeed be kept, and even fattened 
 upon roots, good green meat, and hay ; but they will pay for 
 corn; the better the food the greater weight, better quality, 
 and more profit. Rabbits, which have as much corn as they 
 will eat, can never take any harm in being allowed almost an 
 equal portion of good substantial vegetables. The chief 
 thing to be avoided with rabbits is too much moisture, either 
 in their food or habitations ; they are just as liable to the rot 
 as sheep, and from the same causes ; but, with regular and 
 careful attention, no live stock is less liable to disease than 
 rabbits. 
 
 The does should not be allowed to have more than six 
 litters a year; the young ones may be removed from her at 
 six weeks; at first, the young rabbits should have oats at 
 least twice a day, or pea meal, mixed with fresh grains, and 
 but a small proportion of green food. To a breeding doe, 
 both before and while she suckles, plenty of good green meat 
 should be given, and plenty of solid food too. She will bring 
 forth from five to ten at a litter ; but if the number exceed 
 six, it is better to destroy the weakest; six, or at most seven, 
 is quite large tax enough on the mother. When her time 
 of kindling is near at hand, and she begins to pluck off the 
 fine flue from her body, plenty of sweet dry hay should be 
 given her to assist in making her bed. If she should appear 
 
716 
 
 FOWLS. 
 
 weak or chilly after bringing forth, let her have some warm 
 fresh grains, or fine pollard, scalded, or barley meal nfiud 
 with a little beer. 
 
 FOWLS. 
 
 The warmest and driest soils are best adapted for the pu- 
 pose of breeding and rearing poultry. The greatest success 
 may be expected, attended with the least trouble; however, 
 persons who choose to keep them, must use the best place 
 they can command. If possible, it should be a gentle slope, 
 that the damp may run off. They should have heaps of dry 
 sand, or sifted ashes, to roll themselves in, as this cleanses 
 their feathers, and preserves their health; their roosting-place 
 should be dry and warm, and kept perfectly clean; for nests, 
 little flat baskets placed against the sides of the hen-house, 
 or bits of wood nailed up for the purpose, do very well; but 
 boxes do better, as the wicker work lets in the cold. 
 
 The fowls for breeding should be young. A cock of two 
 years old to four or five hens, whose age should be from two 
 to five years. Short and soft straw is best for making nests. 
 The number of eggs for sitting must be from nine to fif¬ 
 teen, according to the size of the hen; they should be 
 marked; and wben the hen leaves her nest it should be ex¬ 
 amined, that if she has laid any more, they may be removed. 
 Corn and water should be placed near a sitting hen, and re¬ 
 moved as soon as she is satisfied. Some hens will almost 
 starve themselves, rather than quit the nest in search of 
 food; others, if food is always before them, will be conti¬ 
 nually getting up to partake of it. 
 
 When the period of hatching arrives, the chickens first 
 hatched should be removed, lest the hen, in her anxiety to 
 feed them, should leave her task unfinished. They will re¬ 
 quire no food, though kept from the hen for several hours , 
 they must be secured in a basket of wool or soft hay, and put 
 in a moderate heat; if the weather be cold, near .he fire. 
 
TO FATTEN FOWLS OR CHICKENS. 717 
 
 7>e first food should be split grits, and eggs boiled hard, o* 
 curd chopped small; afterwards tail wheat. All wateiy food s 
 soaked bread, or potatoes, are improper. Their water should 
 be pure, and often changed; they must be kept under a coop 
 three or four days, after which they may be suffered to 
 range; they must not be let out too early in the morning, or 
 while the dew is yet upon the grass; they must also be 
 guarded against sudden changes of the weather. As to feed¬ 
 ing and fattening fowls, those thrive best, and are the finest 
 for eating, tint live most in their natural state; picking up 
 the stable offal, and barn-dooi scatterings, together with a 
 daily feeding or two. It is a mirtaken notion to coop them a 
 week or two w th a view to increising their fat; they pine 
 for liberty, slight their food, and lose instead of gaining 
 flesh. Instead if the tail co o, which is usually given to 
 poultry, it is much more advantageous to allow them the 
 weightiest and best; the difference will be seen, not only 
 in the size and flesh of the fowls, but in the weight and good¬ 
 ness of the eggs; two of which go farther, in domestic use, 
 than three from hens fed on common corn and washy pota¬ 
 toes. Barley and wheat are the great dependence for chicken 
 poultry; the best oats will do; but neither go so far as other 
 corns, nor agree so well with the chickens. Buck wheat, 
 cabbage, mangel-wurzel leaves, parsley and other herbs, 
 chopped fine, may be given them. 
 
 To Fatten Fowls or Chickens in four t five Days. 
 
 Set rice over the fire in skimmed milk, only as much as will 
 serve one day. Let it boil till the rice is quite swelled out; 
 you may add a tea-spoonful or two of sugar, but it will do 
 well without. Feed them three times a day, in common pans, 
 giving them only as much as will quite fill them at once. 
 When you put fresh food, let the pans be set in water, that no 
 sourness may be conveyed to the fowls, as that prevents them 
 from fattening. Give them clean water, or the milk of the 
 rice, to drink; but the less wet the latter is, when perfectly 
 soaked, the better. By this method the v flesh will have a 
 clear whiteness which no other food gives; and when it is 
 considered how far •* pound of ri^-e will go, and how much 
 
718 
 
 DUCKS. 
 
 time is saved by this mode, it will be found to be as cheap as 
 barley meal, or more so. The pan should be daily cleaned, 
 and no food given for sixteen hours before poultry be killed. 
 
 To choose Eggs at Market and to preserve them. 
 
 Put the large end of the egg to your tongue; if it feels 
 warm it is new. In new-laid eggs there is a small division 
 of the skin from the shell, which is filled with air, and is per¬ 
 ceptible to the eye at the end. On looking through them 
 against the sun or candle, if fresh, eggs will be pretty clear. 
 If they shake they are not fresh. 
 
 Turkeys. 
 
 The hen and brood must be housed six weeks, and after¬ 
 wards the hen had better be cooped a fortnight longer, to 
 prevent her travelling farther than the strength of her young 
 ones is equal to. Young turkeys should never, even in dry 
 weather, go out before the dew is off the ground, till they are 
 as large as an old partridge, and well covered with feathers; 
 in wet weather they should be always under cover, and fed 
 with barley meal, or milk turned into curds, and made fresh 
 every day, which is excellent for all young poultry. Water 
 is preferable to milk for their drinking. Damp and wet are 
 always to be avoided for poultry. 
 
 When young turkeys get their head feathers, they are 
 hardy, and want room to prowl about in. Never let turkeys 
 be poor. Parley meal, given them fresh and fresh, will very 
 soon fatten them, either in the house, under a coop, or run¬ 
 ning about; boiled carrots and Swedish turnips are also good. 
 I hey w r ould prefer roosting abroad in high trees, in the sum¬ 
 mer season, if that could be permitted with safety. Turkeys 
 are tender and delicate to rear; but with due care and atten¬ 
 tion they pay well. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 A duck will cover from eleven to fifteen eggs. The white 
 eggs are produced by white and light coloured ducks; the 
 greenish blue from those of a dark colour. In setting a 
 duck, it should be observed to give her all egffs of her own 
 
 Oo 
 
GEESE. 
 
 7J9 
 
 (j,/o She will not require attention during sitting; but 
 having chosen for herself a secret and safe place, will, as oc¬ 
 casion requires, carefully cover up her eggs, and seek for her¬ 
 self food and refreshment of water. After hatching, when 
 the duck begins to move from the nest, with her brood, she 
 should be placed under a coop, at a distance from any other 
 ducks, upon the short grass, if tl a weather be fine, or under 
 shelter if otherwise. A wide flat dish of water, often to be 
 renewed, standing at hand; barley or any other meal, the first 
 food. 
 
 If the weather is fine, and the ducklings strong, they need 
 not be confined to> the coop longer than a fortnight; and 
 rather earlier than that they may be allowed to enjoy the 
 pond, but not too long at a time, least of all in wet weather. 
 If young ducks scour, and appear rough and draggled, they 
 must be kept within a while, and have bean or pea meal 
 mixed with their ordinary food, or with buck-wheat. The 
 straw should be often removed, that the brood may have a 
 dry and comfortable bed, and the mother should be well fed 
 with solid corn. Whatever animals are kept should be well 
 fed, both for policy and humanity. Duck eggs are often 
 hatched by hens; but it is a cruel thing, considering the dis¬ 
 tress it occasions the poor hen, when she supposes her little 
 ones to be in danger of drowning. For fatting ducks or geese, 
 barley in any form should never be used; oat and pea meal, 
 mixed with pot liquor, is the best thing for that purpose. 
 Ducks whohave their range are very fond of acorns, and fatten 
 quickly upon them; but the flesh is not quite so delicate. 
 
 Geese. 
 
 Geese can be kept to advantage only where there are 
 green commons ; there they are very hardy, long-lived, and 
 profitable to their owners. If well kept, a goose will lay one 
 hundred eggs in the year. A nest should be prepared for 
 the goose in a secure place, as soon as by carrying straw 
 about in her bill she declares her readiness to lay. An early 
 spring is favourable to geese; as it allows time for two broods 
 In that season. This end may also be attained by feeding 
 breeding geese throughout the winter with solid corn; and 
 
PEA FOWL. 
 
 in the breeding season giving them boiled barley, malt, fresh 
 grains, and fine paJIard mixed with ale. When geese are to 
 be fattened, give them same sort of corn, Swedish turnips, 
 boiled or raw, with corn, ca.vots, white cabbages, or lettuces. 
 An equal quantity of meal of rye and peas, mixed with skim 
 milk, forms an excellent food for either geese or ducks. 
 
 To preserve Eggs 
 
 r J'he proper time of doing this is early in spring, when 
 the hens lay plentifully, and before they begin to sit. There 
 are several ways of preserving them for use or sale, at the 
 season when they become dear. 1. By dipping them in boiling 
 water, and taking them out instantly; or, 2. by oiling the 
 shell, or rubbing them over with melted suet; and then pack¬ 
 ing them closely end* ays in lime, bran, or salt ; the lid of 
 the box in which t> ey are packed being closely shut; 
 3. by placing them ci shelves, with small holes to re¬ 
 ceive one in each ; the* must be placed endways and changed 
 every other day. 
 
 Feathers 
 
 In towns, poultry baring usually sold ready-picked, the 
 feathers, which m^y occasionally come in small quantities, are 
 neglected; but orders should be given to put them into a tub 
 free from damp, and as they dry to change them into paper 
 bags, a few in each; they should hang in a dry kitchen to 
 season; fresh ones must not be added to those in part dried, 
 or they will occasion a musty smell, but they should go 
 through the same process. In a few months they will be 
 fit to add to beds, or to make pillows, without the usual mode 
 of drying them in a cool oven, which may be pursued if they 
 are wanted before five or six months. 
 
 Pea Fowl . 
 
 These are to be treated as turkeys, taking particular care 
 to keep the young out of the way of the cock, till the crown 
 feathers of the head are. grown- otherwise he will kill them. 
 Nature, however, has taught the hen bird to guard her 
 
Pia*ON3. 
 
 ?21 
 
 offspring from this savage practice of her partner, by taking 
 them awav from him as far as possible. 
 
 • L 
 
 Guinea Fowl. 
 
 These lay a great number of eggs, the hatching of which 
 is very difficult, for as the parent bird is a bad nurse, it will 
 be advisable to employ the common hen in her room. It 
 is customary, but for what reason is not clear, to put one or 
 two pepper-corns down the throat of each chick when new,y 
 hatched. They require great warmth, and careful feeding 
 with rice parboiled in milk, or bread soaked in the same. 
 
 Pigeons. 
 
 These are very profitable live stock. They cause but 
 little trouble, take care of their young ones, and do not 
 scratch or do any mischief in a garden. They may be 
 fed with tares, peas, small beans, or buck-wheat, and rape 
 seed: cleanliness is very essential to their comfort and 
 thriving. The floor of the place they inhabit should be 
 strewed with sand or sifted gravel, and swept out daily. 
 Pigeons are very fond of water; and will appear greatly re¬ 
 freshed and delighted by exposure to a shower of rain. When 
 kept in ^oors, a wide pan of fresh water should be always 
 within their reach, in which they may bathe, which greatly 
 promotes their health, cleanliness, and comfort. Where 
 many pigeons are kept, it is a good way to mix some loam, 
 sand, old mortar, fresh lime, and bay salt, with a little strong 
 smelling spice; as allspice, carraway seeds, or coriander or 
 cummin seeds, or the drug assafoetida; and moisten it into a 
 consistence, with chamber-lye. The smell of this attracts the 
 pigeons to their place ; and pecking at this mass is a great 
 amusement to the birds, and in some way or other seems to 
 have an influence in preserving them in health. To begin 
 keeping pigeons, they must not have flown at large before 
 you get them; they must be kept two or three days shut up 
 in the place that is to be their home, well fed, and gratified 
 with the above preparation. 
 
BEES. 
 
 The best hives are those made of clean unblighted rye 
 straw, with a thatch of the same, which should be replaced 
 by a new one every three or four months. The hives should 
 bo in a shed, with a top, back, and ends, to keep them warm 
 ir. winter; they should not, however, be too hot in summer, 
 and they should face the south-east, or at least be always 
 sheltered from the north, and in winter from the west also. 
 In a dry summer you should place clear water near the hive, 
 in something they can drink out of; they collect more honey 
 from buck-wheat than from any thing else; it need not be 
 added, all garden flowers are valuable, on account of the food 
 they furnish for bees. Never keep the same stall or family 
 over two years, unless you want to increase your number of 
 hives: the swarm of one summer should always be taken in 
 the autumn of the next year. 
 
 The chief thing to attend to in bees, is to keep away 
 fowls and birds, particularly the bee-bird. If you see wasps, 
 hornets, or ants, watch them home, and kill them in the night 
 by fire or boiling water. The hives should be placed on a 
 bench, with tin round the legs, to keep down rats and mice; 
 but, as this will not keep off ants, take a gv«en stick, twist it 
 round in the shape of a ring, lay it on the ground round the 
 leg of the bench, and a few inches from it, and cover it with 
 tar. When the bees hang out, and hesitate to swarm, if you 
 put on a top hive, they will soon fill it; when they have done 
 so, take it off for the sake of the honey, of which perhaps 
 you may find a great deal; put another hive on directly, and 
 in another fortnight take it off again, and take out the honey. 
 There are two kinds of wax, white and yellow; the first is 
 bleached, the last is as it comes out of the hive. After the 
 honey is taken out of the comb, the remaining part is put 
 into a kettle with some water, in which it is melted over a 
 moderate fire, and then pressed through a linen cloth to strain 
 
BEES. 
 
 723 
 
 it. Take the scum off before it is cold, and pour it into 
 moulds. Wax is bleached, or made white, by spreading it in 
 very thin cakes, and exposing it to the air both day and night i 
 when quite white, the cakes are melted, and put in mould*. 
 
TABLE ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 On ibis subject little need be said, for the following rea¬ 
 sons . 
 
 1. Under the directions for preparing various articles of 
 cookery, an intimation is generally given, unless the case 
 were so obvious as to render it unnecessary, for what 
 purpose it is adapted, whether as a principal or a side dish, 
 whether for the family dinner table, or the tasty supper, or 
 luncheon tray. 
 
 2. The plates of family dinners for every month in the 
 year give suitable hints, as to propriety ot providing and 
 arranging, quite sufficient for any persons of common sense and 
 taste; and to cumber those who possess neither, with farther 
 directions, would at best be lost labour. And, 
 
 3. It is not likely that the arrangement of a table, where 
 rny special form is to be observed, will be committed to per¬ 
 sons who are not quite capable of filling up skeleton hints 
 from their own taste and observation. 
 
 In general, it may be observed, that in plain dinners, when 
 there are only soup and meat, the soup is placed at the head 
 of the table; when fish, soup, and meat, the fish at top, soup 
 in the middle, and meat at the bottom ; when boiled and roast 
 meat, the boiled at top; poultry and roast meat, the former 
 at top; ham in the middle. If two kinds of roast meat, that 
 with which the ham is eaten at top; as, for example, fillet ot 
 veal at top, roast beef at bottom—vegetables and sauce-boats 
 to be placed straight on each side of the middle if there is no 
 centre dish; if there is, then at cross corners.* W hen 
 there are to be two or more courses, tbe articles suitable for 
 the first course are, soups and stews of every kind, ragouts 
 
 * A very little experience and observation will accustom an intelligent 
 servant to place these things so as to present the most tasty appearance, 
 and at the 'same time, to avoid crowding them into the room required for 
 
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TABLE ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 T29 
 
 and fricasees, boiled and roast meats; poultry and the suit* 
 able accompaniments oi bacon, ham, tongue, &c. and veg t- 
 ables of different kinds; also meat and pigeon pie. In 
 large dinners there are usually two kinds of soup and two 
 dishes of fish. 
 
 For second courses, birds and game of all sorts are suitable ; 
 shell fish, cold and petted; fish, or birds; or brawn collar d, 
 potted, or pickled. Vegetables of various kinds, stewed or in 
 sauces; omelets, oysters stewed or scalloped; patties and tarts 
 of fresh or preserved fruits, cheesecakes, and all kinds of sweet 
 dishes, as creams, jellies, &c. 
 
 The great matter is to make a genteel and tasty appear¬ 
 ance, without a vain and useless extravagance, and without 
 cumbering and crowding the table. 
 
 When a tasty dinner is to be served, much of a good 
 housewife’s care is necessary to combine appearance with eco¬ 
 nomy; with this view, in the selection and arrangement of her 
 dishes, she will avoid having many things of a perishable 
 kind, or that will not bear rewarming or eating cold. Nor 
 will she forget to examine the larder, and, if possible, dish up 
 from the remains of a former meal some little matters which 
 may add to the appearance without adding to the expense. 
 
 In some families there is more intent on comfort than 
 splendour; one dish at a time is sent up with its accompa¬ 
 niments of vegetables and sauces, and others in succession l\ot 
 ind hot* 
 
 Others have in succession, 1st, soup and fish, 2nd, meat 
 and poultry, 3rd, game and made dishes, 4th, sweet dishes; but 
 .hese modes are not common, nor perhaps suitable, from the 
 consideration that scarcely any will partake of so great a va¬ 
 riety of dishes, and that it would occasion the inconvenience 
 to all the party in turn of waiting while others proceed. 
 
 In large dinners it is common to spread the whole at once; 
 in which case the vegetables and sauces are usually placed on 
 side tables and brought round by the servants; but some in¬ 
 conveniences attend this plan. If there are not many to at¬ 
 tend on the company, it is probable that things will be asked 
 for several times before all can be served; and if there are 
 many servants they may be running one against another, and 
 
 5 A 
 
730 
 
 TABLE ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 spilling the sauces &c. on the company, the table cloth, or the 
 carpet. It is much better to have a table of a sufficient size, 
 and place on it no more than can be placed commodiously and 
 elegantly. 
 
 Any of the following things may be served as a relish, with 
 the cheese, after dinner. Baked or pickled fish done high, 
 dutch pickled herring, sardinias, which eat like anchovy, 
 but are larger; anchovies, potted char, ditto lampreys, 
 potted birds made high, caviare and sippets of toast, 
 salad, radishes, French pie, cold butter, potted cheese, 
 anchovy toast, &c. Before serving a Dutch herring, it is 
 usual to cut to the bones without dividing, at the distance of 
 two inches, from head to tail. 
 
 Suppers are comparatively but little used since the practice 
 has been adopted of dining late. A few sandwiches, tarts, 
 jellies, cakes, &c. are usually served on the side-board. When 
 a substantial supper is required, the principal dishes are under¬ 
 stood to be roasted game or poultry, cold meats sliced, ham, 
 tongue, collared and potted things, grated beef, Dutch her¬ 
 ring, kipper, highly-seasoned pies of game, &c. &c. with 
 soups—an addition to modern suppers which, is often found 
 peculiarly grateful and restorative. Minced white meats, 
 lobsters, oysters, and crayfish, dressed in various forms; 
 sago, rice, the more delicate vegetables, poached eggs, scal¬ 
 loped potatoes, or potatoes in balls, or as little cakes, arc all 
 suitable articles of the solid kind. To these we may add 
 cakes, tarts, possets, creams, jellies, custards in glasses or 
 shapes; preserved or dried fruits, pancakes, fritters, puffs, 
 tartlets, grated cheese, butter in little forms, sandwiches, and 
 the catalogue of the more stimulating dishes, as anchovy 
 toasts, devils, Welch, English, and Scotch rabbits, roasted 
 onions, salmagundi, smoked-sausages sliced, and those other 
 preparations, equally best adapted to the purpose. 
 
 A supper-table should neither be too much crowded, nor 
 loo much scattered and broken with minute dishes. Any 
 larder, moderately stored, will furnish a few substantial articles 
 for supper on an emergency. A few sweet things readily pre¬ 
 pared, some small patties, shell-fish, and fruits, will do the 
 rest, if the effect of contrasted colours, flavours, and forms, 
 
CARVING. 
 
 731 
 
 be understood, and that light and graceful disposition of 
 miles, which is the chief art in setting off such entertainments 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 Carving is now so commonly practised by gentlemen that 
 the ladies may be considered in a great measure exempt. It 
 is, however, a very desirable accomplishment. Every mistress 
 should be competent to preside at her own table; and as ex¬ 
 pertness is best gained by experience, it would be very ad¬ 
 vantageous that young ladies, before they quit the parental 
 roof, should be permitted to assist occasionally in doing the 
 honours of the table. By acquiring early habits of doing 
 these things with propriety, under the direction of a mother, 
 they will be prepared to do them with facility and confidence 
 at a table of their own. 
 
 To carve with ease and elegance it is essential that we be 
 furnished with a good and suitable carving knife. These are 
 varied in size and form according to the purposes for which they 
 are intended. For carving a large fleshy joint, as a round of 
 beef, &c. a long blade will be necessary; for lamb, &c. a 
 smaller size will answer; and for poultry and game a still 
 shorter blade, sharp pointed and somewhat curved. The knife 
 should be as light as is compatible with the size and strength 
 required. The edge should be very keen, and a good steel 
 always at hand. A guard fork is generally used, and for large 
 joints, or carving which requires the exertion of strength, it is a 
 necessary security; but for small carving it is a needless and 
 rather cumbersome appendage. It is the cook’s business to 
 see that the butcher properly divides the joints of necks and 
 loins in every kind of meat, as this materially facilitates the 
 operation of the carver. The seat of the carver should be 
 sufficiently high to command the table, and render rising 
 
732 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 unnecessary. For fish, a silver fish-knife or trowel is to be pre¬ 
 ferred, as preserving the flakes more entire, which contributes 
 greatly to the beauty of its appearance. 
 
 It is scarcely necessary to obseirve what innate politeness 
 would dictate, that each person, as far as possible, should be 
 furnished with a portion of the best parts; but, as this is often 
 a mere arbitrary matter of custom, it may be desirable to point 
 out what are esteemed the prime parts, which will be done 
 under each article. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Salmon. 
 
 The middle and upper part of this fish are most esteemed. 
 The flakes down the back are the firmest, but those of the 
 flank are more rich and fat. It is usual to take the slices 
 lengthways, and to help a slice of each, with a portion of the 
 roe, liver, or melt, though these, in large fish, are seldom 
 eaten. 
 
 Cod. 
 
 Of this fish the head and shoulders are the most esteemed, 
 and indeed the only parts usually served at genteel tables; 
 the trowel should be introduced in the direction of the back 
 bone at a —c, and slices taken in that direction as far as to 
 b — d. The sound, which is esteemed a great delicacy, lines 
 the back bone. It is a glutinous substance, of a somewhat 
 darker colour than the other parts of the fish. It must of 
 course be taken in the same direction as the above slices, only 
 withinside of the back bone. The glutinous parts of the 
 head are also esteemed a nicety. 
 
 Turbot. 
 
 The fish-knife is to be entered flat ways in the middle of the 
 fish close to the bone, and to bring out as much meat as will 
 lie on it. The middle, which is the richest meat, is the part 
 
CARVING. 
 
 733 
 
 most esteemed. When the meat on one side is removed, the 
 back bone is to be raised with the knife and fork and laid 
 aside, and the under part to be then served. The fins of 
 this fish are esteemed a titbit. 
 
 Soles 
 
 Are to be cut right through the middle, bone and all, 
 each sole, according to its size, will divide into three or four 
 pieces, one of which will be suitable for each person. 
 
 Mackerel. 
 
 This fish is to be slit along the back, and one whole side 
 taken off, half of which is a fair portion to put on each plate; 
 the upper end is most esteemed, but not too near the head, as 
 the meat near the gills is apt to be black and ill flavoured. 
 The bone must then be removed and the under side served. 
 The roes of mackarel are very nice ; some people prefer the 
 soft, and others the hard, roe. It is usual, therefore, to ask 
 the question. 
 
 Eels and Jacks , 
 
 If fried, are cut into lengths of a suitable size for helping. 
 The thickest part is esteemed the best. If boiled, these fish 
 are to be cut through the bone in pieces of a proper length, 
 preference being given to the thick part. 
 
 JVhitings 
 
 Are cut through the bone and served in the same manner. 
 These are the principal fish concerning which any direction 
 can or need be given. The same rules that apply to turbot 
 will serve for holibut, plaice, and other large flat fish. Those 
 for cod equally well apply for ling and haddock; and small 
 fish fried, as smelts, perch, &c. it is obvious are to be heip 
 whole. 
 
c 784 1 
 
 POULTRY AND GAME. 
 
 A Fowl. 
 
 First loosen the legs, but not remove them, then take off the 
 wings in the direction a—b (observation will afford improve¬ 
 ment, but it is only practice that can render expert in hitting 
 the joint exactly at the first trial). In removing the wings, the 
 best way is to stick your fork in the pinion ; raise and draw the 
 wing off towards the leg. By this method the muscles separate 
 in a much more complete form than could be cut. Then 
 with a fork turn the legs back, and the joint in a young fowl 
 will readily give way. The merrythought is then to be 
 separated, by carrying the knife in the direction c—c, slipping 
 it under and raising the bone, which is thus to be drawn off 
 with the fork. The neck bones, whose centre joint fitted 
 that of the wing, are next removed; the knife must be in¬ 
 serted at a, when the fork will easily effect the removal by 
 drawing off the long bone from the back, and turning back 
 that which adheres to the breast. The next thing is to 
 divide the breast from the back, by cutting through the ten¬ 
 der ribs; then lay the back upwards, stick in the point of your 
 knife in the hollow spoon-like bone on each side of the back 
 bone, an inch or more above the rump, and remove the 
 sidesmen ; then, about the middle of the back bone, stick 
 your fork and turn back the lower half, which will separate 
 easilv. 
 
 The breast, wings, and merrythought are most esteemed, 
 though in a young fowl the legs are most juicy. The liver 
 wing is preferred before the gizzard, or if a fowl be dressed 
 pheasant fashion, that under which the head is placed. 
 
 A Pheasant. 
 
 The fork is to be placed in the middle of the breast, and 
 several slices cut down in the direction from a to b, but not 
 removed. The leg and wing on one side are to be separated, 
 and then the slices on that side of the breast, then on the 
 
CARVING. 
 
 735 
 
 opposite side, in like manner; afterwards proceed exactly in the 
 same manner as with a fowl. The white meat of a pheasant, 
 like that of a fowl, is generally preferred; but the leg has 
 a higher game flavour. 
 
 Partridges 
 
 Are cut up in the same manner, but the bird being 
 small, the breast and merrythought are generally not divided. 
 The wing is considered the best; then the other white parts. 
 
 A Turkey 
 
 Is cut up in every respect the same as a pheasant, 
 except that the meat, which in a fowl or pheasant belongs 
 to the merrythought bone, in a turkey is divided between 
 the neck bones. In trussing, the throat is removed, 
 and the hollow part is filled up with a stuffing of force¬ 
 meat, which falls in handsomely with the slices of the breast; 
 these slices are to be cut lengthwise from the rump to 
 the neck, and as they may be carried so far round as to take 
 in nearly all the meat of the wings and part of the legs, it is 
 seldom necessary to cut up more of the bird; if it be, a 
 pinion, or a neck bone, is next to be helped. 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 May be cut in half, either from top to bottom, along 
 the breast and back bone by a , which is on the whole 
 preferable, or across, or in a semicircular, or almost triangular 
 line from b to c by a, which is most fashionable. 
 
 A Goose. 
 
 First cut round the apron (or hollow skin extending from 
 the end of the breast bone to the rump) ; then, if approved, 
 stir into the body a glass of port wine and a large tea spoon¬ 
 ful of made mustard. Then cut the whole breast into slices, 
 but remove them only as required to help the company, 
 unless there is a probability of the legs also being wanted. 
 In that case, holding the small end of the bone, pass the knife 
 between the leg and the carcase, and turn the leg back, when 
 it will easily separate. It should be observed that in water 
 fowl the joints are wider spread and go further back. It 
 
*736 
 
 CARVING. 
 
 will be nece^ary therefore, in turning the leg back, to apply 
 the force required in a somewhat different direction, in which 
 the adage will again apply (t Practice makes perfect.” To 
 remove the wing, with your fork pin down the end of the 
 pinion, which will throw up the joint and render it prominent 
 and visible; divide the joint, and draw off the flesh of the wing 
 in the same manner as directed for a fowl. The prime parts 
 of a goose are the slices off the breast, meat of the wing, and 
 the thigh bone. The apron is considered a nicety, and a 
 part should bo helped with every slice. The goose, of all 
 poultry, is by some persons esteemed, especially if devilled. 
 Many people also are fond of the sidesmen and other part* 
 of the carcase as more juicy and relishing. 
 
 If the sage and onion be generally approved, it may be 
 drawn out at the apron with a spoon and mixed in the gravy 
 but if any of the company object to it, they should be helped 
 to a slice of the breast before the seasoning is at all suffered 
 to escape, and sened with gravy from a tureen. 
 
 Duck or Mallard. 
 
 The same directions apply to the carving of ducks, except 
 that, being so much smaller, the joints are more likely to 
 come in use. The pinions, legs, and merrythought, are 
 therefore raised previously to taking the slices from the breast, 
 and afterwards removed as they are wanted; next to the 
 slices of the breast the wing is preferred, though some give 
 a preference to the leg as being more juicy, and as esteeming 
 the foot a delicacy. 
 
 Woodcock , Plover , Snipe , or Curlew. 
 
 The legs and wings must be raised in the manner of a 
 fowl, opening the head for the brains. 
 
 Crane. 
 
 After the legs are unfolded, cut off the wings; take 
 them up, and sauce them with powdered ginger, vinegar, salt, 
 and mustard. 
 
 Hare. 
 
 The best way of cutting it up is, to put the point of the 
 knife under the shoulder at a, and so cut all the way down 
 
CARVING. 
 
 td 7 
 
 to the rump, on one side of the back-bone, .n the line a _ b* 
 
 Do the same on the other side, so that the whole hare will 
 be divided into three parts. Cut the back into four, which 
 with the legs is the part most esteemed. The shoulder must 
 be cut off in a circular line, as c — d—e : lay the pieces 
 neatly on the dish as you cut them; and then help the 
 company, giving some pudding and gravy to every person. 
 This way can only be practised when the hare is young : i. 
 old, do not divide it down, which will require a strong arm; 
 but put the knife between the leg and back, and give it a 
 little turn inwards at the joint; which you must endeavour 
 to hit, and not to break bv force. When both less are 
 taken off, there is a fine collop on each side of the back; 
 then divide the back into as many pieces as you please, and 
 take off the shoulders, which are by many preferred, and are 
 called the sportsman’s pieces. When every one is helped, 
 cut off the head; put your knife between the upper and 
 lower jaw, and divide them, which will enable you to lay the 
 upper flat on your plate; then put the point of the knife into 
 the centre, and cut the head into two. The ears and brains 
 may be then helped to those who choose them. 
 
 Carve rabbits as directed the latter way for hare; cutting 
 the back into two pieces, which with the legs are the prime. 
 
 BUTCHERS’ MEAT. 
 
 Aitch-bone of Beef. 
 
 As the outside of boiled meat is seldom approved, 
 a thick slice may be cut off the whole length of the joint, 
 beginning at a, and cutting it all the way even, and through 
 the whole surface, from a to b. The soft fat, which resem¬ 
 bles marrow, lies on the back, below the letter c, and the 
 firm fat must be cut in thin horizontal slices at the point d; 
 but as some like the soft, and some the firm fat, it is neces¬ 
 sary to ask which is preferred. The upper part, as it is 
 here placed on the dish, is the fullest of gravy; but there 
 are some who prefer a slice from the under side. The 
 
 5 B 
 
CARVING. 
 
 1HB 
 
 ekower that keeps the meat properly together when boiling ia 
 shown in the plate at a. This should be drawn out before 
 it is served up; or if it be necessary to leave the skewer in, 
 it should be a silver one. 
 
 Sirloin of Beef 
 
 May be begun either at the end, or by cutting into the 
 middle. It is usual to inquire whether the outside or the 
 inside is preferred. For the outside the slice should be 
 cut down to the bones ; and the same with every following 
 helping. Slice the inside likewise, and give with each piece 
 some of the soft fat. 
 
 Brisket of Beef. 
 
 This part is always boiled, and is to be cut the long 
 way, quite down to the bone, after having cut off the outside, 
 or first cut, which you must never help any one to, unless 
 they desire it, which is seldom the case. The fat cut with 
 this slice is a firm gristly fat; but a softer fat may be found 
 underneath. 
 
 Bound, Buttock, or thick flank of Beef. 
 
 A thick slice should be cut off all round the buttock; and, 
 thus cut into, thin slices may be taken from the top : but as it 
 is a dish that is frequently brought to the table cold a second 
 day, it should always be cut handsome and even. 
 
 Fillet of Veal. 
 
 In an ox this part is the round of beef. Ask whether the 
 brown outside be liked, otherwise help the next slice. The 
 bone is taken out, and the meat tied close, before dressing; 
 which make the fillet very solid. It should be cut thin, and 
 very smooth. A stuffing is put into the flap, which com¬ 
 pletely covers it, you must cut deep into this, and help a thin 
 slice, as likewise of fat. From carelessness in not covering 
 the latter with paper, it is sometimes dried up, to the great 
 disappointment of the carver. 
 
 Breast of Veal. 
 
 One. part, which is called the brisket, is thickest, and has 
 

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 Tlate 
 
 S/ioii/i/it or Million . 
 
 Lon 'or' Million 
 
 (Hun'ter o/' Lamb 
 
 lltih a iiiii.i Hoad 
 
 1 011 t/ll o. 
 
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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 2 . 
 
 i 
 
CARVING. 
 
 730 
 
 gristles; put tlie knife about four inches from the edge of 
 tills, and cut through it, which will separate the ribs from the 
 brisket. The burr or sweetbread is usually dressed with 
 this, a part of which should be helped with each slice. 
 
 Calf 's Head 
 
 Has a great deal of meat upon it, if properly managed. 
 Cut slices from a to b, letting the knife go close to the bone. 
 In the fleshy part, at the neck-end c, there lies the throat- 
 sweetbread, of which you should help a slice, from c to e?, with 
 the other part. Many like the eye, which you must cut 
 out with the point of your knife, and divide in two. If 
 the jaw-bone be taken oft) there will be found some fine 
 lean. Under the head is the palate, which is esteemed a 
 nicety: the lady of the house should be acquainted with all 
 things that are thought so, that she may distribute them 
 among her guests. ^ 
 
 Shoidder of Mutton. 
 
 This is very full of gravy, if properly roasted, and pro¬ 
 duces many nice bits. The figure represents it as laid in 
 the dish with its back uppermost. When it is first 
 cut, it should be in the hollow part in the direction of a — b, 
 and the knife should be passed deep to the bone. The 
 prime part of the fat lies on the outer edge, and is to be cut 
 out in thin slices in the direction e. If many are at table, 
 and the hollow part cut in the line a — b, is eaten, some very 
 good and delicate slices may be cut out on each side of the 
 ridge of the blade bone, in the direction c — d. The line 
 between these two dotted lines, is that in the direction of 
 which the edge or ridge of the blade-bone lies, and cannot be 
 cut across. 
 
 Leg of Mutton. 
 
 A leg of wether mutton (which is the best flavoured) may 
 be known by a round lump of fat at the edge of the broadest 
 part, as at a. The best part is in the m’dway at b , between 
 the knuckle and further end. Begin to help there by cut 
 ting thin deep slices to c. If the outside is not fat enough. 
 
740 
 
 CARVING 
 
 help some from the side of the broad end, in slices from e t of. 
 This part is not juicy; but many prefer the knuckle, which 
 in fine mutton will be very tender though dry. There are 
 very fine slices on the back of the leg: turn it up, and cut 
 the broad end; not in the direction you did the other side, 
 but longways. To cut out the cramp-bone, take hold of the 
 shank with your left hand, and cut down to the thigh-bone 
 at d; then pass the knife under the cramp-bone in the di¬ 
 rection d, <j. 
 
 A Fore-quarter of Lamb. 
 
 Separate the shoulder from the scoven (which is the breast 
 and ribs), by passing the knife under the direction of a, b , c, d ; 
 keeping it towards you horizontally to prevent cutting the 
 meat too much off the bones. If grass-lamb, the shoulder 
 being large, put it into another dish. Squeeze the juice of 
 half a Seville orange, or lemon, on the other part, and sprin¬ 
 kle a little salt and pepper. Then separate the gristly part 
 from the ribs, in the line e — c ; and help either from that or 
 from the ribs, as may be chosen. 
 
 Haunch of Venison. 
 
 Cut down to the bone in the line a, b, c, to let out the 
 gravy : then turn the broad end of the haunch toward you ; 
 put in the knife at b , and cut as deep as you can to the end 
 of the haunch d ; then help in thin slices, observing to give 
 some fat to each person. There is more fat (which is a 
 favourite part) on the left side of c and d than on the other; 
 and those who help must take care to apportion it, as like¬ 
 wise the gravy, according to the number of the company. 
 
 Haunch of Mutton v 
 
 Is the leg and part of the loin, cut so as to resemble ' 
 haunch of venison, and is to be helped at table in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Saddle or Chine of Mutton. 
 
 Cut long thin slices from the tail to the end, beginning 
 
CARVING. 
 
 741 
 
 close to the back-bone. If a large joint, the slice may be 
 divided. Cut some fat from the sides. 
 
 A Collar of Mutton, which consists of the two necks, as 
 above of the two loins, may be managed in the same way. 
 
 Tongue. 
 
 A tongue must be cut across, in the line a , b, and a slice 
 ken from thence. The most tender and juicy slices will be 
 about the middle, or between the line a — b, and the root. For 
 the fat and kernel with it, cut off a slice of root on the right 
 of the letter b at the bottom. 
 
 Ham 
 
 Maybe cut three ways, the common method is to begin 
 in the middle, by long slices from a to b, from the centre 
 through the thick fat. This brings to the prime at first; 
 which is likewise accomplished by cutting a small round hole 
 on the top of the ham as at c , and with a sharp knife enlarg¬ 
 ing that by cutting successive thin circles : this preserves the 
 gravy, and keeps the meat moist. 
 
 The last and most saving way is to begin at the hock-end, 
 wdiich many are most fond of, and proceed onwards. 
 
 Ham that is used for pies, should be cut from the under 
 side, first taking off a thick slice. 
 
 Leg of Pork. 
 
 This joint, whether boiled or roasted, is sent up to table 
 as a leg of mutton roasted, and cut up in the same manner. 
 The close firm flesh about the knuckle is by many esteemed 
 the best. 
 
 Sucking Pig. 
 
 The cook usually divides the body before it is sent to 
 table, and garnishes the dish with the jaws and ears. 
 
 The first thing is, to separate a shoulder from the carcase 
 on one side, and then the leg according to the direction given 
 hy the dotted line #, b, c. The ribs are then to be divided 
 into about, two helpings; and an ear or jaw presented with 
 
742 
 
 CALENDAR FOR THE KITCHEN, 
 
 them, and plenty of sauce. The joints may either be 
 divided into two each, or pieces may ba cut from them. The 
 ribs are esteemed the finest part; but some people prefer the 
 neck-end, between the shoulders. 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 CALENDAR FOR THE KITCHEN AND FRUIT 
 
 GARDEN. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 KITCHEN. 
 
 Let every thing be clone that the 
 weather will admit of. Wheel in 
 dung, and prepare the ground for 
 the future crops. In a warm and 
 sheltered situation may be sown, 
 radishes, spinach, lettuce, parsley, 
 and early peas and beans. 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 Prune apple, pear, and plum 
 trees. Clear them from moss, 
 thus: in a mild, wet, foggy day, 
 throw quick lime over the branches; 
 wherever it strikes it will kill the 
 moss ; scrape it from the bodies of 
 the trees. And whenever you boil 
 meat, take the grease, while warm, 
 and rub the trunks of the trees 
 often ; this will cure the canker in 
 them; or train oil may be used for 
 the same purpose. Prune your 
 gooseberry and currant bushes. If 
 a gooseberry bush is left to itself, it 
 soon gets thick and matted, and so 
 full of wood, as to shut out the sun 
 and air The fruit will then be of 
 a small size, and but little of it. 
 Nothing in this world does well 
 without industry. Use it then even 
 in the matter of a gooseberry bush. 
 Thin your tree well, cut out the 
 wood from the middle, and you will 
 have the branches covered with 
 fruit, and of a much larger size. 
 The young trees should be kept 
 down by shortening the young 
 shoots. All trees and shrubs may 
 be removed, provided the weather 
 be open and mild. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 Continue the work as above, also 
 p ant garlicks, chives, eschalots, 
 otatoe-onions and tree-onions, 
 lake hot beds. 
 
 All pruning and training should 
 now be finished. Advancing fruit 
 buds shelter from frost by mats 
 or shavings. Cut scions for graft¬ 
 ing, and stick them in a warm 
 border. 
 
AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
 
 743 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 KITCHEN. 
 
 The busiest month in the year. 
 Sowing should now be performed 
 in the principal crops: as onions, 
 leeks, carrots, parsnips, beets, 
 radishes, spinach, lettuce, cabbages, 
 brocoli, borecole, savoys, peas, 
 beans, celery, cauliflowers. Also 
 of small herbs; parsley, small 
 salad, radishes, marigolds, nastur¬ 
 tiums, corn salad, fennel, thyme, 
 savoury, marjoram, and hyssop. 
 Early potatoes should be planted 
 in the beginning of this month; 
 choosing a warm situation. Jeru¬ 
 salem artichokes may now be 
 planted; they are not choice in 
 their situations ; but will do very 
 well in any inferior spot, as shady, 
 or to the north, provided it be not 
 too damp. Part roots, or replace 
 any which may have died off in the 
 winter, of all kinds of sweet herbs; 
 such as thyme, maijoram, &c. Also 
 lavender, rosemary, and rue. Plant 
 old onions for escalions and seed¬ 
 ing. Onions should be sown in 
 the richest ground, in beds from 
 three to six feet in width; rake the 
 seed in regularly: a few may be 
 sowed thick, or in rows to draw 
 young in summer; let the beds be 
 kept very clear from -weeds. Car¬ 
 rots and parsnips may be sowed in 
 beds of a similar size. The soil 
 should be light, and dug very deep, 
 to allow room for the carrots to 
 throw their roots their full depth. 
 They will require frequent thin¬ 
 ning; the young carrots are much 
 esteemed for the table; if not 
 wanted for that purpose, they are 
 excellent food for rabbits. Lettuce 
 plants that have stood the winter, 
 may now, if the weather be mild, 
 be planted out at a foot distance. 
 Marrow-fat, Prussian blue,and im¬ 
 perial-dwarf peas, and broad beans, 
 may be planted once a fortnight 
 through March and April, for crop* 
 in succession. Mint, balm, and 
 sage roots may now be parted; o? 
 slips taken from the young spring 
 shoots. Cape brocoli, for beading 
 at Michaelmas, may be sowed from 
 the end of March to the end of 
 April. Borecole, and Brussels 
 sprouts, and savoys, for autumn 
 
 FRUIT. 
 
 Strawberries may be planted 
 now. Keep every part well weed¬ 
 ed; flower beds neatly trimmed; 
 box or thrift edgings planted or 
 repaired. Shelter wail trees in 
 blossom, if the weather is severe. 
 Head down young trees that are 
 inclined to grow straggly ; cutting 
 each last year’s branch to about 
 five or six eyes or shoots. This 
 method will cause them to shoot 
 bushy, and in a handsome form. 
 At the end of March, or beginning 
 of April, according to the early or 
 late advancement of the season, 
 grafting may be performed. Finish 
 pruning and training vines, and 
 make layers of vines ; slitting the 
 bark at an eye, laying down the 
 branch, and forking it down to the 
 depth of six or eight inches; cover 
 it up with mould. 
 
744 CALENDAR FOR THE KITCHEN. 
 
 KITCHEN. FRUIT. 
 
 and winter heading, and spring 
 sprouts. General crops of potatoes 
 should be planted before the end 
 of this month ; also horseradisl. 
 
 APRIL. 
 
 All the work of last month may 
 be carried on, and should be com¬ 
 pleted as early as possible. Aspa¬ 
 ragus beds may be made—and of 
 old beds the earth must be forked 
 up, and loosened to a moderate 
 depth, and rake the surface even. 
 Hoe beans and peas that are up, 
 and draw earth to the stems. If 
 you are short of room, you may 
 plant garden beans between your 
 potatoe sets ; and so get two crops 
 on the same ground. You may 
 also raise a crop of radishes on 
 your asparagus beds. Cauliflowers 
 plant out—also prick out lettuce 
 plants, as they advance sufficiently. 
 Sow York, Battersea, and sugar- 
 loaf cabbages for autumn; and 
 finish planting out what have stood 
 the winter, for summer crops. Sow 
 cauliflower seed, for a late summer 
 and autumn crop. Sow a principal 
 crop of celery in an open situation; 
 and prick out early raised plants. 
 Early in April (if not late in 
 March) sow cucumbers in* pots in 
 your hot bed. When they have 
 four or six leaves, transplant them 
 into the earth of the bed; or some 
 may be kept back till the season is 
 farther advanced; then to be 
 planted in a warm border, under 
 glass or oiled lights. A little air 
 maybe admitted to the beds daily; 
 and occasional waterings ; keeping 
 always a bottle of rain or river 
 water within the frame, to be of a 
 proper warmth for that purpose. 
 A moderate warmth must be kept 
 up in the beds, by lining with hot 
 dung to the sides, and covering 
 over the glasses at night with mats, 
 straw, or furze. A little endive 
 may be sowed now; but it is rather 
 apt to run. Early dwarf sorts of 
 kidney beans may be set in a warm 
 border late in this month. Potatoes 
 may still be planted. Peas, when 
 six or eight inches high, must be 
 sticked. Spinach, the round-leaved 
 tort, may be sowed once a fort* 
 
 Thin apricots for tarts. Any 
 branches of fruit trees, blown about 
 by the March winds, must be at 
 tended to, and secured by training 
 and tying; where any decayed 
 shoots, or ends of shoots appear, 
 prune them to the live wood. 
 Clear all fruit trees from suckers 
 at the roots. Dig round and be¬ 
 tween gooseberries,raspberries, and 
 currants. Caterpillars and snails 
 must be watched, and cleared off. 
 
AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
 
 
 KirCHIiN. ! tUHT. 
 
 night, either broad cast, or in 
 broad shallow drills, or between 
 rows of young cabbage,cauliflowers, 
 or beans. Hoe and thin early 
 spinach. Mustard for seed, or to 
 make flour for table use, may now 
 be sowed, either broad cast, or in 
 drills. Rhubarb (for tarts) may 
 now be planted at two feet dis¬ 
 tance, as the plants are very large 
 and spreading. To produce seed, 
 leave some spinach, parsley, beets, 
 celery, endive, small salading, 
 
 Welsh onions, chervil, leeks, bro- 
 coli, borecole, turnips, parsnips, 
 carrots, and other plants of last 
 season. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 Sow spinach ; a few turnips for 
 August. Hoe, weed, and thin the 
 principal crops. Keep the ground 
 neat between rows of peas and 
 beans, by frequent hoeing and rak¬ 
 ing; also between potatoe rows. 
 Stick peas before they become too 
 tall. As soon as beans are in full 
 blossom, top them. Water ra 
 dishes daily, when the sun is upon 
 them ;—this is the only way to have 
 good quick-grown radishes. Sow 
 scarlet-runners, which are the most 
 productive of French beans; aud 
 white runners, which are the best 
 for pickling. Plant out cabbages 
 and lettuces ; and keep your seed 
 beds properly thinned. Indeed this 
 business should be carried on all 
 the year round. If you wish to 
 make the best of your room, have 
 always a supply of plants to stick 
 in any spare piece of ground—even 
 when you cut every other cabbage 
 in a row, you may dig and even the 
 ground, and put another plant in. 
 Much may be done by management 
 and contrivance. Cucumbers may 
 be sowed in the natural ground; 
 choose a warm border, and very 
 rich ground; shelter them at night, 
 with a large garden pot, placing a 
 bit of slate, or some such thing over 
 the hole; or an oiled paper frame; 
 or contrive something that will 
 answer the purpose. Sow a good 
 crop of celery now, for autumn and 
 winter • keep it watered in dry 
 weather. Prick out borecole, br». 
 
 5 
 
 Gather gooseberries for tarts. 
 Vines now require some atten¬ 
 tion in regulating the growth of 
 their shoots; removing such as are 
 ill placed; but carefully retaining 
 those that are strong, well placed, 
 and furnished w ith fruit. The fruit 
 of next year will be promoted by 
 your own pinching off the curling 
 tendrils as they appear; excepting 
 the one at the top of the branch. 
 Thin fruit trees; clear off blights, 
 crumpled leaves, and pinch off 
 clumsy shoots. Water strawberries 
 in blossom, and be careful to do it 
 gently. 
 
 i 
 

 CALENDAR FOR THE KITCHEN 
 
 KITCHEN. FRUIT, 
 
 coli, savoys, &c. from seed beds; 
 sow parsley; tie up seed plants, 
 especially of leeks and onions. 
 
 Plant out the young shoots forming 
 at the head of the tree leek. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 The principal now is weeding 
 hoeing, thinning, watering, prick, 
 ing out, and transplanting ; choos¬ 
 ing for the latter showery weather; 
 or if that does not occur, supplying 
 the deficiency by watering and 
 shading: but dry weather is the 
 best for hoeing. Several early 
 crops will be coming off this 
 month, and the ground should be 
 prepared for sowing or planting in 
 succession. Turnips should now 
 be sown for a full crop ; also tur¬ 
 nip radishes. If you choose to sow 
 beans or peas for a late erop, they 
 should be soaked in water a few 
 hours, if the weather is dry. Red 
 beets, thin to a foot distance. Cape 
 brocoli, borecole, savoys, brocoii- 
 sprouts, for winter use, should now 
 be planted out. Also sow celery 
 seed, to plant out in autumn, for 
 spring crops. Plant out celery in 
 trenches for whitening; dig the 
 trenches a yard asunder, nine or 
 ten inches wide, six or eight inches 
 deep ; dig in some manure in each 
 trench ; make all smooth and even ; 
 plant a row of celery in each ; and 
 keep it well watered. Sow prin¬ 
 cipal crops of endive. Gather herbs 
 for drying. Transplant leeks, trim 
 the long stringy roots, and place 
 them at from six to nine inches 
 apart; leeks make a very pretty 
 bordering; and so take scarcely 
 any room. Thin lettuce to a foot 
 asunder ; plant out a good crop to 
 the same distance, and well water. 
 Sow some more lettuce seeds for a 
 succession. Cucumbers will now 
 require plenty of air and water, 
 and shading from the heat of the 
 sun; the glasses had better still he 
 kept over them at night, unless the 
 weather should be very warm and 
 settled. When the plants grow 
 large, and run over a considerable 
 surface of ground, it s a good way 
 
 This is the time for budding ot 
 inoculating apricots, peaches, nee* 
 tarines, cherries, plums, &e. 
 
AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
 
 74 - 
 
 KITCHEN. FRUIT, 
 
 to spread some clean dry straw or 
 reeds for them to run upon. If 
 onion crops have failed, they may 
 be replaced the beginning of this 
 month, by procuring from some 
 neighbour, who is thinning his bed, 
 a quantity of strongish plants of 
 young onions, and preparing beds 
 of rich, well dunged ground, in 
 which plant them, in roots, five or 
 six, by three or four inches apart. 
 
 Insert the root part only, a mode¬ 
 rate depth, and keep them well 
 watered. Hoe and earth cauli¬ 
 flowers ; give water in dry weather; 
 and as the young heads appear, 
 turn down some of the leaves, to 
 defend from sun and rain. 
 
 ■ULY. 
 
 Earth up celery as required—in 
 doing this, be careful not to bury 
 the hearts of the plants, by raking 
 down too much earth at once. More 
 celery should be planted out; and 
 to make the best of the ground, 
 cabbages, coleworts, and savoys, 
 may be planted between rows of 
 beans, which will soon come off; 
 and endive and lettuce between 
 celery trenches. Plant out full 
 crops of brocoli, both purple and 
 white, in rich ground; also cauli¬ 
 flowers for the Michaelmas crop in 
 October and November. Sow 
 lettuce, radishes, black Spanish 
 radishes, prickly spinach, and 
 Welsh onions,. Sow early Russian 
 cabbage seed for spring—this sort 
 is not apt to run, and if brought 
 pretty forward before Christmas, 
 will afford fine young cabbages in 
 March and April. Some people 
 sow the common onion now, for 
 next year’s crop. Cucumbers will 
 want plentiful watering now, every 
 day or two, in a morning or after¬ 
 noon ; they need no longer be co¬ 
 vered at night, and the frame or 
 glasses maybe raised up with bricks 
 at the corners, to give the plants 
 free scope for running. Dig up 
 the ground as fast as it is cleared; 
 and dung such as requires it, for 
 autumn and winter crops. Plant 
 out lettuce and well water, and 
 thin those that are to remain where 
 sowed. Leave some best full 
 
 Still trim and train vines, ana 
 thin the leaves over the fruit j but 
 do not leave it bare. Gather wal¬ 
 nuts for pickling and preserving 
 and fruit in general as it ripens; 
 shelter ripe fruits from flies and 
 w asps 
 
CALENDAR FOR THE KITCHEN 
 
 7-iS 
 
 KITCHEN. FRUIT 
 
 grown plants, such as acquire a 
 full cabbaged growth, before they 
 run up t' stalk; otherwise the 
 seed is not to be depended on to 
 produce good full plants in return. 
 
 Sow French turnips—the best for 
 broth. Finish thinning all carrot, 
 parsnip, and onion beds. Water 
 regularly in dry hot weather; and 
 be sure to destroy all weeds, before 
 they come into flower; for the 
 seeds soon succeed the flower; and 
 you will have plenty next year 
 without allowing them to scatter. 
 
 Watch all seeds as they ripen, and 
 gather them in in dry weather. 
 
 Early potatoes will now be in per¬ 
 fection. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 Earth up celery, peas, beans, &c. 
 Prick out young plants, such as 
 brocoli, savoys, &e. if not done last 
 month. Sow cabbage seed for a 
 full crop of young plants to stand 
 the winter, and for early and first 
 general crops, next summer, any 
 or all of the following sorts : — 
 Early York, sugarloaf, Battersea, 
 Deptford, Antwerp, large late sorts, 
 and red cabbage. Observe, the 
 time for sowing, is from the third 
 to the tenth of this month, neither 
 earlier or later: both that the plants 
 may not run in the spring, and yet 
 acquire proper strength to stand the 
 winter. Clear asparagus beds of 
 weeds; but suffer the asparagus to 
 run to stalk and seed. Water cu¬ 
 cumbers every day in dry weather. 
 Pickling cucumbers may be gather • 
 ed. Plant out endive in full crops, 
 for autumn and winter; and whiten 
 such as is full grown, by laying on 
 it tiles or slates. Take up eschalots 
 and garlic as the leaves wither. 
 Onions arx-ived to full growth, and 
 the stalks and leaves withering, 
 may now be taken up, spread to 
 dry and harden, and then housed. 
 They keep much best roped, and 
 hungup ; butbe sure to save some 
 for duck onions. Small button 
 onions use for pickling. Throughout 
 this month, lettuce seed of any sort 
 may be sown for autumn, winter, 
 and spring. There is no sort stands 
 the winter better than the brown, 
 
 Unbind buds that have taken on 
 inoculated trees. Pinch off sheots 
 that appear below buds or grafts 
 Trim and train wall trees; but the 
 principal work is that of gathering 
 in fruits. 
 
and fruit garden. 
 
 749 
 
 n .u KJTCHEiN. FRUIT, 
 
 or i?s.th coss. Tne latter, m par¬ 
 ticular, grows very large; and if 
 tied up a few days before 1 using, 
 becomes equal to the white coss; 
 which every body hnows is the 
 nicest of all lettuce, but the most 
 uncertain, and apt to run. Nas¬ 
 turtiums, kidney beans, radish 
 pods, &c. for pickling, should be 
 gathered as they advance to a pro¬ 
 per size ; if suffered to remain too 
 long, they become harsh and un- 
 useable. Parsley may be sowed 
 early in this month if required; 
 also short top, salmon, and turnip 
 radishes. Sow spinach ; the prickly 
 seed and the round seed answer 
 very well mixed together. When 
 the leaves are an inch or more in 
 breadth, thin the bed, and clear it 
 well from weeds. You may gather 
 n October and November; but the 
 chief of the crop will come in in 
 spring. If you choose you may 
 thinly scatter in your winter 
 spinach bed, a little seed of green 
 cabbage lettuce, to cut in winter, 
 or for early spring salads. Be at¬ 
 tentive to gather in seeds as they 
 ripen; and to sow, and prick out, 
 as occasion requires, in cabbages, 
 coleworts, cauliflowers, &c. 
 
 SEPTEMBER 
 
 Still sow, (if required) spinach, 
 turnips, Welsh onions, and ra¬ 
 dishes. Prepare.ground for plant¬ 
 ing. Finish clipping evergreens. 
 Sow a little carrot seed; if it lives 
 it will come in early. Parsnip 
 seed, sowed now, answers very well. 
 Cauliflowers, of August sowing, 
 for next year’s early and main 
 crops, should now be pricked out 
 into beds of rich earth, about three 
 inches asunder. Attend to thin¬ 
 ning, pricking out, final planting, 
 earthing, and hoeing, as required 
 in cabbages, celery, lettuce, tur¬ 
 nips, endive, &c. VVeeding is al¬ 
 ways required, if you would have a 
 garden neat or profitable. If you 
 have any late cucumber plants, 
 they will now require night cover¬ 
 ing. Geraniums and myrtles 
 should be taken out of the ground, 
 and taken in doors at night if the 
 weather is cold. Plant out the 
 last cron of leeks, early in this 
 
 Gather fruit as it ripens, foi use 
 or store. Most kinds of fruit maj 
 be preserved a considerable time 
 on the tree by the use of nets, wool, 
 or crape. Plant suckers of roses, 
 lilacs, gooseberries, currants, rasp¬ 
 berries, &c. and cuttings of honey¬ 
 suckles, gooseberries, and currants. 
 
CALENDAR FOR THE K fCHEN 
 
 7sa 
 
 KITCHEN. FRUIT. 
 
 month, and lioe others. Parsnips 
 and potatoes may now be taken up 
 for use as wanted, but not wholly 
 for keeping ; they will improve by 
 remaining in the ground at least 
 another month. Slips of sage, mint, 
 thyme, and other herbs, may now 
 be planted out. Gather seeds as 
 ripe. Water, (as required,) all 
 newly pricked-out small plants. 
 
 OCTOBER. 
 
 In this month, all sowing and 
 planting should be finished for this 
 year ; as many crops are now 
 cleared off, the ground should be 
 filled up for winter to the best ad¬ 
 vantage. Hand weed or hoe be¬ 
 tween the various advancing crops. 
 At the end of this month, asparagus 
 beds may be dressed for the win¬ 
 ter, by cutting down the stalks 
 now done growth; hoe off all 
 weeds into the alleys, which then 
 mark out the proper width, dig 
 each alley along regularly between 
 the beds, bury the weeds in the 
 bottom, and spread a good portion 
 of the earth evenly over each bed. 
 Manure will be required every two 
 or three years, and this is the sea¬ 
 son for applying it. Use princi¬ 
 pally rotted dung ; after clearing 
 away the stalks and weeds as 
 above, forking it carefully into 
 the beds, and digging it into the 
 alleys; then spreading some of 
 the earth of the alleys regularly over 
 the beds as you advance in the 
 digging. At the latter end of this 
 month begin using the tops of 
 borecole, Scotch kale, Brussels 
 sprouts, &c.; which, early in spring, 
 will produce a plentiful crop of 
 fine sprouts. The main crop of 
 carrots may be dug up at the end 
 of this month; cut otf the tops 
 close, and preserve the roots in 
 dry sand, or sandy earth for winter 
 use. Jerusalem artichokes also 
 are now of full growth, to dig up 
 for use as wanted, or take up a 
 quantity to house for winter. 
 Carefully hand weed, but do not 
 thin your young winter crop of 
 onions. Red cabbage and red beet¬ 
 root are now fit for use. Savoys 
 will also be just coming in. Those 
 greens on which yon depend much 
 
 Apples and pears, now becoming 
 ripe, should be carefully gathered 
 with the hand: if shaken down 
 and bruised, they will not keep. 
 The best way of keeping them is 
 on shelves, covered with clean dry 
 straw. Walnuts and chestnuts, 
 when fully ripe, which may be 
 known by the outer husk opening 
 gradually, should be gathered. 
 Currant and gooseberry cuttings, 
 and raspberry shoots, may now be 
 planted. Raspberries now require 
 pruning; they are very wild ugly 
 plants if neglected ; but very neat 
 and productive if attended to—the 
 same stem never bears two years ; 
 but after bearing dies, and should 
 be cut away close to the ground. 
 There will probably be seven or 
 eight new shoots ; these must not 
 all remain ; they would only en¬ 
 cumber one another, and hinder the 
 bearing; three good strong shoots 
 are enough to leave; if not strong, 
 four, or at most five. If you want 
 to increase your stock, carefully 
 take up the whole bunch, and se¬ 
 parate the roots. If otherwise, cut 
 all shoots, more than the number- 
 above directed, close to the ground ; 
 tie what are left together, and 
 shorten them, taking off about a 
 quarter of the whole length, mor.: 
 or less according to the height of 
 them. Dig away all straggling 
 suckei s, and clean and dig neatly 
 betwt enthe plants thus dressed. 
 
AND FRUIT GARDEN 
 
 KITCHEN. FRUIT, 
 
 for sprouts, be sore you gather the 
 heads in proper time, as that 
 strengthens the plant for sprouting. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 Sowing is only required in peas, 
 beans, and small salad ; but these 
 require a very warm aspect; the 
 small salad, hand-glasses. If the 
 weather continues mild, you may 
 plant out, as occasion requires, 
 cabbages, lettuce, endive, &c. Clear 
 all beds from weeds, and hoe and 
 loosen the surface of the earth 
 round each plant; this will en¬ 
 courage their growth, and at the 
 same time destroy slugs, and other 
 destructive vermin. The milder 
 tire season is, the more these crea¬ 
 tures abound. They may be des¬ 
 troyed by scattering fresh lime over 
 the beds which they infest. Earth 
 up celery, and hoe earth to the 
 stems of brocoli, &c. Plant garlic 
 and eschalots—-now or in February. 
 Cut down old rank parsley, if any 
 remain, that it may shoot out 
 afresh. Savoys are now in full per¬ 
 fection. Any vacant ground 
 should be dug in trenches two feet 
 wide, and one or two spades deep, 
 burying all the old leaves and other 
 rubbish, and laying the earth of 
 each trench in a rough ridge, to 
 improve by the weather. If any 
 potatoes remain out, they should 
 now be got in. Jerusalem arti¬ 
 chokes and horse radish, a portion 
 of each should be got in, and laid 
 up in sand, lest a hard frost should 
 prevent their being dug up after¬ 
 wards. All roots should be clean 
 and dry before they are laid up ; 
 and should be often looked at and 
 turned, and any that are decayed 
 be removed. 
 
 Almost any sort of trees may 
 be transplanted through this and 
 the three following months, choos¬ 
 ing open weather. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 If you choose to venture early 
 crops of peas and beans, it may 
 yet be done. Hoe and earth be¬ 
 tween plants. If you have any 
 cauliflower or lettuce under glass¬ 
 es, give them air freely in mild 
 weather; but keep the glasses 
 down at night, and in frost, snow, 
 or much ram, pick off all decayed 
 leaves ; stir the earth gently, anu 
 
 This month is almost a repeti¬ 
 tion of the last; all fruit trees may 
 now be pruned, and shrub® trim¬ 
 med that are straggling t/ryond 
 their bounds. 
 
752 
 
 VINTS ON HEALTH. 
 
 KITCHEN. TEXIIT 
 
 search for slugs. Earth up celery 
 in dry open weather; and whiten 
 endive by tying up, or laying tiles 
 on it. Keep digging and trench¬ 
 ing in open weather, and the 
 ground will thus be improved, and 
 when wanted for use, requires no 
 farther trouble than merely to level 
 down the ridges. Dry frosty 
 weather is the time for bringing in 
 manure, or, which is the same 
 thing, moving it from the heap to 
 the garden. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 HINTS ON HEALTH. 
 
 On tne death of a certain celebrated physician, who had lived 
 to an extreme old age, in the enjoyment of excellent health, 
 and whose practice had been long, extensive, and successful, a 
 sale of his effects took place.—One article of great interest was 
 a ponderous volume, which the bidders were not permitted to 
 open, but which they were informed contained, in his own ma¬ 
 nuscript, the principles and rules on which he had constantly 
 practised. A spirited bidding took place, and the book was at 
 length knocked down at a high price. The successful bidder 
 hastened home, with his purchase, eager to commence the study 
 of so valuable a work. On examining the book, he found 
 nothing more written than the following Maxims of Health:— 
 
 “ Keep the head cool, 
 
 The feet warm, 
 
 Take a light supper, 
 
 Rise early.” 
 
 At first he felt disposed to complain of imposition, hut to 
 avoid the laugh, which he knew would go against him among 
 the unsuccessful bidders, he suppressed all mention of the 
 circumstance, and professed himself well pleased with his 
 bargain; and so in the end h^ had good reason to be; for 
 
HINTS ON HEALTH. 
 
 758 
 
 (he sound good sense of these precepts commended themselves 
 eohis approbation, and led him to abandon many imprudences nv 
 which his health had been injured : he scrupulously adhered 
 to these simple rules; his health gradually improved, ana 
 in a good old age he bequeathed the volume to his children, 
 enforcing the contents on their attention and observance, de¬ 
 claring that, though he had purchased it at so high a price, 
 it had been the cheapest and most profitable volume he ever 
 possessed. 
 
 These simple rules may indeed be justly denominated, A 
 Complete Family Physician. Were they constantly observed, 
 comparatively very little medicine would be required. As each 
 of them implies much more than it expresses, a word or two 
 may be useful to the reader, and will supersede the necessity 
 of a multitude of prescriptions. 
 
 1. “ Keep the head cool.” All tight bandages on the 
 head are very prejudicial, especially to infants, and by their 
 use many a constitution is early ruined, and incurable dis¬ 
 eases induced. The less of any kind that is worn on the 
 head by day or night, the better. As a proof of this, 
 where shall a thousand healthier children he found than 
 those belonging to Christ’s Hospital School ? and they are 
 exposed to all weathers without any covering for the head, 
 they have indeed a small cap, about six inches in diameter, 
 but it is uniformly either carried in the band, or kept in the 
 pocket. The writer of this being fully persuaded, that 
 to keep the hair thin and the head uncovered, is highly con¬ 
 ducive to health; has brought up a large family without suf¬ 
 fering one of them to wear a night cap, and has had the 
 r leasure, not only of witnessing the beneficial effects of that 
 practice, but also of knowing that the principle is corroborated 
 by the highest professional authority. The celebrated Dr. 
 Armstrong of the Fever Hospital, and author of a valuable 
 work on Fever, advised a parent to keep the hair of her 
 children thin, and to accustom them to sleep without night¬ 
 caps, observing that such a practice would render them far 
 less susceptible of infectious diseases; for that there is a 
 tendency in the human body to throw off in perspiration any 
 thino- offensive or injurious which may have been received, 
 
 D I) 
 
?5l 
 
 HINTS ON HEALTH. 
 
 hut that in persons whose hair was thick, and the head ad¬ 
 ditionally covered with a close night cap, the perspiration, 
 instead of evaporating, is confined and absorbed into the 
 body. 
 
 To keep the head cool, it is absolutely necessary to avoid 
 intemperance and excess of every kind, to exercise moderation 
 in every pursuit and every enjoyment, and to maintain 
 habitual self control over the passions and temper. The 
 Treat eater and the great drinker have generally a burning 
 forehead and cloudy brain. The passionate man, the inor¬ 
 dinate player, and even the excessive student, are strangers 
 to that placid coolness of front, which is the attendant of 
 moderation, regularity, and equanimity, and the sure prognostic 
 of health. 
 
 2. “ Keep the feet warm.” This implies proper activity 
 and exercise, which are absolutely necessary to keep up a 
 free and regular circulation in the whole system, and without 
 which stagnation will be sure to prevail in some parts, and 
 undue velocity and irritation in others. It also requires 
 proper care in avoiding damp feet, or in immediately provid¬ 
 ing against the injurious effects attendant on them. After 
 exposure to w r et, the clothes, and especially shoes and stockings, 
 should be immediately changed, and the feet rubbed to a 
 clow with coarse cloths or with a flesh brush, or if near bed 
 time, they may be soaked in warm water and the person go 
 immediately to bed and drink freely of some warm diluting 
 liquid. If the feet are habitually or occasionally cold, it is 
 a proof that there is something amiss which ought to be 
 ascertained and rectified. Coldness of the feet often proceeds 
 from indigestion and a disordered state of the stomach and 
 bowels. The same course therefore above suggested for 
 keeping the head cool, will at the same time tend to keep the 
 feet properly warm : viz. moderation, activity, and equani¬ 
 mity—an intemperate, an indolent, or an ill-tempered person 
 is never really healthy ; and, as it is in the power of every one 
 to avoid those vicious habits, and even to resist and break 
 them off when acquired, in that sense, and to that degree, 
 every man is the disposer of his own health, and a propor¬ 
 tionate responsibility lies upon him. 
 
HINTS ON HEALTH. 
 
 75i 
 
 S. “ Take a light supper.” It is a symptom of ill health, 
 when the relish for food is keenest at a late hour in the day, 
 and an indulgence of that irregular appetite tends to increase 
 the evil. Hence, in the days when substantial and luxurious 
 suppers were in fashion, the adage was in common currency, 
 
 “ After dinner sit awhile, 
 
 After supper walk a mile.’’ 
 
 After a hearty meal of animal food a short period of com¬ 
 parative repose is beneficial, but not by any means the total 
 repose of sleep. The process of digestion will indeed be 
 carried on during sleep, but by that sleep nature will not be 
 refreshed and invigorated; the slumbers will be disturbed by 
 dreams or nightmare. In the morning, languor and drowsi¬ 
 ness will prevail, and the individual will, in all probability, rise 
 at a late hour, feeble, sullen, and irritable, with a burning 
 forehead, cold feet, and a total disinclination to active pur¬ 
 suits and moderate enjoyments. One moderate meal of ani¬ 
 mal food daily is sufficient for nourishment and conducive to 
 health. It should be taken several hours before retiring to 
 
 <D 
 
 rest at night, and should be succeeded by a few minutes of 
 comparative repose, and then a few hours of activity, after 
 which a slight repast may be taken, of such a nature as will 
 not require much exercise of the digestive powers, at a time 
 when they, in common with the wearied system in general, 
 should be resigned to complete repose. 
 
 4. “ Rise eafly.” There is no habit more conducive to 
 health and excellence of every kind than that of early rising. 
 It has been remarked, that all who have attained to great 
 longevity, in whatever other habits they might differ, have all 
 sustained the character of early risers. 
 
 Our physician has furnished no precept for going early to 
 bed ; but it may be fairly considered as included in the others. 
 He who has risen early in the morning, and by proper acti¬ 
 vity kept all the functions of nature in proper play, and has 
 received only a sufficiency of such nourishment as nature re¬ 
 quired and could assimilate, will feel at night such a natural 
 decree of weariness as will render rest desirable to recruit the 
 
 O 
 
 fatigues of the past, and prepare him for the exertions of the 
 coming day. The sleep of such an individual will be sweet, 
 
756 
 
 HINTS ON HEALTH 
 
 and he will awake refreshed. It is scarcely necessary to say 
 to such an one that, when once he has beheld the bright 
 Horning beam, it would be both useless and injurious to turn 
 again on his pillow, and seek “ a little more sleep, a little 
 more slumber, a little more folding of the hands to sleep 
 for he will feel no disposition to do so. The cheerful morn¬ 
 ing is as inviting to him, as it is unwelcome to the sluggard, 
 and the intemperate. His first waking indicates that he has 
 taken the rest which nature required, and the elasticity of his 
 frame and the buoyancy of his spirits confirm the same ; he 
 rises with cheerfulness; and, with vigour and perseverance, 
 proceeds to the duties of the day; thus healthfully, usefully 
 and happily living a life of reason and moderation ;—it may be 
 added, of instinct too ; for the brute creatures in a natural state, 
 though endued with no higher a principle than instinct, 
 shame a great majority of the human race, in that they are 
 content with the food, the drink, the sleep that nature re¬ 
 quires, and wish no more. 
 
 Some constitutions require more rest than others, but it 
 may be laid down as a general rule, that more than eight 
 hours sleep is neither necessary or beneficial to any adult. 
 Any individual in health may easily ascertain the portion of 
 sleep he requires by going to bed at a stated hour, and uni¬ 
 formly rising as soon as he awakes, however early that may 
 be; after a few days, or at most weeks, of steady adherence to 
 this plan a habit will be acquired of taking just the rest that 
 nature requires, and regularly awaking, out of one sound and 
 refreshing sleep, to new vigour and activity. It is generally 
 and justly admitted that the earlier this rest is taken the 
 more satisfying and beneficial it will be found. There is 
 great truth in the common adage “ one hour before twelve 
 o’clock is worth two afterwards.” It must not, however, be 
 imagined that the reverse of this proposition is fact, and 
 that two or three hours rest in the morning is worth one 
 at night. Nothing can be farther from the truth. How¬ 
 ever injurious may be the want of night sleep, the indulgence 
 in day slumbers is not at all less so; and in case of having 
 been deprived of early rest one night it will be found more 
 beneficial to rise at the usual hour next morning, and make 
 
HINTS ON HEALTH. 
 
 757 
 
 good the deficiency by retiring to rest earlier at night, rather 
 than irregularly to prolong the morning’s repose. 
 
 Deeply, however, as we are impressed with the conviction, 
 that a steady attention to the above rules would ensure a 
 much greater share of health than is generally enjoyed, it 
 must be admitted that, even under the most favourable cir¬ 
 cumstances, the human frame is liable to the attacks of disease 
 and accident, and that it is desirable to possess a knowledge 
 of the rational and beneficial course to be pursued when these 
 occasions arise : a word or two of caution to domestic practi¬ 
 tioners shall precede a few prescriptions for their use. 
 
 1. A habit of taking medicine should be most carefully 
 avoided. In the present age, when medical publications lay 
 open so many things that were formerly secrets in the medi¬ 
 cal profession, almost every valetudinarian gets hold of these 
 publications, fancies he traces his own likeness in every case 
 there described, furnishes himself with the various remedies 
 prescribed—perhaps prescribed in various publications, and on 
 different systems and modes of treatment. His table is 
 strewed with medical books, and pills for this disease, and 
 drops for that, and powders for the other; and the consequence 
 is, he never gets well. Nervous people should never set up 
 for their own doctors, except it be in adopting the four sim¬ 
 ple prescriptions above given; and if, after a fair trial, they 
 do not effect a cure, let them seek the best professional advice 
 and abide by it. 
 
 2. Great caution should be used in resorting to any adver¬ 
 tised medicine. The more wonderful the cure said to be 
 effected by it, the more strongly is it to be suspected. If 
 these medicines sometimes succeed, it is perhaps because their 
 inventors, who have no character to lose, administer active 
 drugs in such quantities as no regular practitioner w r ould 
 venture upon. In desperate cases, and with peculiar consti¬ 
 tutions, the success may be very decided and striking, and this 
 serves to hawk in hundreds of newspapers and advertisements; 
 hut there is no advantage in advertising the number of cases 
 rn which they fail, or in which they produce, instead of the 
 benefits promised, consequences the most injurious: and on 
 these subjects their proprietors are silent. It is the grossest 
 
758 
 
 ON TAKING COLD. 
 
 impudence to pretend, and the grossest folly to believe, 
 that one medicine can cure a vast round of diseases; or cure 
 even one disease in every constitution and in different circum¬ 
 stances. 
 
 3. There are many cases in which an uneducated person 
 ought never to interfere, even with most simple and apparently 
 rational prescriptions, except it be in the utter impossibility of 
 immediately procuring the best medical advice. Perhaps 
 the delay of a day or a night, and the trial of some simple 
 domestic remedy, before the doctor is sent for, may cost the 
 life of the patient. Domestic remedies ought never to be 
 resorted to except under the following cases. 
 
 1. When the case is obviously of so simple and trifling a 
 kind as to require merely rest, or a little attention to the state 
 of the bowels; or, in a word, something ^so self-evident and 
 obvious to common sense, that it is really not worth troubling 
 a doctor. 
 
 2. When a seizure is so sudden and alarming, that the 
 patient is in danger of perishing before a doctor can arrive 
 unless some one at hand has a notion of giving assistance. 
 
 3. When a medical man has to be sent for to a consider¬ 
 able distance, it is a good thing if some intelligent person in 
 the mean time has been preparing the way for the more easy 
 and expeditious exertion of his endeavours. Instead of this, 
 it is too often the case that he finds the patient surrounded 
 by people in a state of petrified stupidity, or else, who are 
 very busy in doing the most absurd and improper things, and 
 such as render- all his endeavours fruitless. Bearine in mind 
 
 O 
 
 these principles, we proceed to give a few particular directions 
 for the domestic treatment of diseases, and recipes for the pre¬ 
 paration of medicine. 
 
 On taking Cold. 
 
 If the feet are wet, let the clothes be removed, the feet be 
 rubbed dry with a coarse cloth, then immersed in warm water 
 for ten or twelve minutes; the water should be moderately 
 wif rm, just so as to feel pleasant; if it chills, let a little warmer 
 be added, so that that the feet may be taken out quite warm, 
 then rubbed dry and wrapped in a flannel or warm cloth ; and 
 
ON TAKING COLD 
 
 T59 
 
 let the person immediately get into bed and drink freely of 
 thin gruel, (without any addition of beer, wine, or spirits,) 
 barley water, bran tea, camomile tea, or other infusion of 
 herbs, by which means it may be hoped that perspiration will 
 be restored and mischief prevented. It may be well also to 
 encourage the perspiration, by lying in bed an hour or two 
 later, and taking some warm tea in bed; but on rising, care- 
 must be taken to avoid sudden chills, and all feverish diet 
 must be avoided. 
 
 If the bowels are confined, a dose of any simple opening me¬ 
 dicine may be taken ; but if the warm water and warm liquid 
 should fail to restore perspiration, or if the simple medicines 
 directed should fail to open the bowels, and either shivering, 
 pain, or burning heat should continue, let no time be lost in 
 calling in the best advice. 
 
 If, in consequence of a cold, a troublesome tickling cough 
 comes on, the first attempt to get rid of it should be by pro¬ 
 moting perspiration; this may be done by drinking freely of 
 treacle posset, orange or vinegar whey, barley water, with 
 gum arabic, raisins, or figs; bran tea, or marsh-mallow tea. 
 But if hoarseness, tightness of the chest, pain in the side, or 
 difficulty of breathing should continue, or come on, it will be 
 highly necessary to obtain regular advice, lest what was at 
 first considered a mere cold should terminate in consumption, 
 or inflammation of the lungs. A Burgundy pitch plaster 
 should be applied between the shoulders or at the chest; this 
 should be renewed as soon as it becomes flabby and wrinkled. 
 
 Great benefit has sometimes been derived from wearing at 
 the chest a hair skin or rabbit skin, properly prepared; but 
 this, if once taken to, must be constantly worn, at least as 
 long as any tenderness remains; and if ever it is left oft, it 
 must be in warm settled weather. All persons who are tender 
 on the lungs should use worsted stockings, and wear flannel 
 next the skin. It is generally recommended to those who 
 wear flannel next the skin, not to sleep in it; in this case it 
 should be hung every night in a roim where there has been 
 a fire through the day. 
 
 Butter milk is often serviceable to consumptive persons, but 
 it should be drank constantly and persevered in a long time. 
 
L ?6Q 1 
 
 SORE THROAT. 
 
 A sore throat is sometimes relieved by wearing a piece of 
 flannel or black^ribbon, which has been dipped in a mixture of 
 oil and spirits of hartshorn; but this is not always proper. 
 1 here can never arise any harm from wearing a bit of flannel 
 round the neck, only taking care to leave it off gradually. A 
 blister round the throat is often of great service in a sore 
 throat; and when the inside of the throat is swollen, and 
 perhaps ulcerated, so that no food can be swallowed, and 
 even liquids are returned through the nose, there is nothing 
 better than frequently to draw in steam, by holding the 
 mouth over a jug or coffee pot, filled with hot vinegar, or 
 vinegar and water. 
 
 In all feverish complaints, especially if attended with sore 
 throat, the mouth and throat should be frequently washed 
 with a mixture of vinegar and water; this is delightfully re¬ 
 freshing, and will of itself sometimes cure a slight sore throat. 
 
 But none of these remedies are to be depended on without 
 proper attention to the state of the bowels. They should be 
 kept constantly open by means of some simple medicine. It 
 will also be necessary that the person who has as bad a sore 
 throat as is here supposed, should keep constantly in bed, and 
 drink frequently of barley water, in which nitre has been dis¬ 
 solved; but most persons who can have access to proper ad¬ 
 vice, will be inclined to resort to it before the complaint has 
 proceeded so far ; and these hints are given chiefly for the 
 direction of persons who cannot immediately obtain it. 
 
 Gargles. 
 
 If a softening gargle be wanted, as is the case when in a 
 sore throat the person finds a quantity of phlegm collected 
 ^fiich he cannot throw up, the following may be used. Take 
 an ounce of marsh mallow roots, and three or four Turkey 
 figs, boil them in a quart of milk and water till nearly half 
 reduced; then strain the liquor on a table-spoonful of honey, 
 snd add half an ounce of volatile sal ammoniac. 
 
HEAD-ACH. 
 
 761 
 
 If a sharp scouring gargle be wanted, and one that shall 
 brace tine throat and palate, the following is recommended : 
 Take a handful of sage leaves, and a handful of red rose 
 leaves; pour over them a pint of boiling water; in half an 
 hour pour it off, and stir in two spoonfuls of honey, half a pint 
 of vinegar, and the same of port wine. 
 
 Or this is a very good gargle. Sweeten a pint of Bran tea, 
 with honey, and add an ounce of tincture of myrrh. 
 
 Head-ach. 
 
 Persons who are liable to head-ach should keep the hair 
 very thin by frequent cutting, or even shaving; the head 
 should be kept cool, often washed, and all tight bandages 
 avoided. 
 
 Cold Feet. 
 
 Those who suffer from cold feet, will find great advantage 
 in wearing socks made of oiled silk (the same as is used for 
 making umbrellas). The two last mentioned complaints 
 belong rather to the sedentary than the active, and as 
 these pages may fall into the hands of those whose employ¬ 
 ments or inclinations confine them to the desk, the shop 
 board, or the work table, for their benefit these hints are 
 inserted. 
 
 Sick Head-ach. 
 
 If a person is suffering with head-ach and sickness, which 
 appear to proceed from the stomach being overloaded with 
 food which it cannot digest, relief must be sought by unload¬ 
 ing it. This may be done by an emetic, or if that be not at 
 hand, or not approved, the purpose may be answered as well 
 by taking a good quantity of camomile tea; take half a pint 
 every quarter of an hour, till either your stomach is 
 thoroughly relieved by vomiting, or the head-ach and feeling 
 of sickness are removed without. At night a dose of salts, 
 or senna, or rhubarb and magnesia should be taken. 
 
 If an emetic is necessary and cannot be procured, the fol¬ 
 lowing will answer the purpose, and is always at hand. I’wo 
 tea-spoonfuls of flour of mustard, mixed ootli in about 
 
 5 E 
 
762 
 
 BOW El Co KEPT Uf'T«i 
 
 table-spoonfuls of warm water; to be repeated in a quarter 
 of an hour if it has not operated. The only objection to tms 
 is, that it is heating to the stomach. It camomile flowers 
 are to be had, they are preferable, and will generally answer 
 the end of an emetic, if the stomach is in a state to require it. 
 
 Boivel Complaints. 
 
 If a person is afflicted with a violent pain in his bowels, at¬ 
 tended with frequent sickness, obstinate costiveness, and ten¬ 
 derness of the flesh, the best advice should be immediately 
 sought for, as he is probably suffering from a dangerous and 
 rapid complaint, inflammation of the bowels; but in case of 
 any delay in obtaining medical advice, relief may be attempted 
 by giving a large dose of castor oil, and applying a warm 
 poultice large enough to cover the whole of the bowels. 
 
 In case of a violently disordered state of the bowels, very 
 different treatment is required, according to different circum¬ 
 stances and symptoms; sometimes it is necessary to promote, 
 and at other times to check, the discharge; therefore it 
 will generally be best, if possible, to obtain regular medical 
 advice. If this cannot be done, and the sick person, or those 
 around him, must follow their own best judgment, the follow¬ 
 ing remarks may be some guide. It should be noticed whe¬ 
 ther the frequent motions relieve the person, or whether he 
 appears to be exhausted by them, his hands and his feet cold, 
 and his countenance shrunk. In the first case, the discharge 
 is most likelv an effort of nature, to relieve itself of what is 
 injurious, and ought not to be checked, but rather assisted by 
 means of warm broth or gruel; a small quantity of rhubarb 
 may be taken with advantage; it should be dried some 
 minutes before the fire, and as much of the powder taken two 
 or three times a day as will lie upon a sixpence, in a table¬ 
 spoonful of simple peppermint water. By simple is meant 
 that which is distilled from the herb alone, without the ad¬ 
 dition of any kind of spirit. 
 
 But if the person appears to be greatly exhausted, some¬ 
 thing must be done to support his strength and moderate the 
 disenarffe. This is one of the few cases in which we should 
 recommend an advertised medicine, Dalbv’s carminative; 
 
lUlEUAlATlS-I. 
 
 763 
 
 which may be taken aom)d.ng to ths dnections given with 
 the bottle. The food also should be nourishing ; such as rice 
 gruel, with a small quantity of good wine and spice, or beef- 
 tea, thickened with rice. 
 
 Tooth-ach. 
 
 for tooth-ach, ear-ach, or face-ach, a flannel bag may be 
 filled with camomile flowers, or feverfew, wrung out of boiling 
 water, sprinkled with spirits of hartshorn, or sal volatile, and 
 applied very warm over the ear, or cheek, as the pain may 
 be : or for the tooth-ach, or head-ach when confined to the 
 temple: relief may sometimes be found by shaving thin the 
 outer rind of a lemon, and sticking a piece, as large as a half 
 crown, on the cheek below the ear for the tooth-ach, or for 
 the head-ach on the temple. The tooth-ach is sometimes re¬ 
 lieved by the steam of henbane seeds, but it should be remem¬ 
 bered that they are poisonous, and care taken accordingly. 
 
 Rheumatism. 
 
 Rheumatism is of two kinds, very different from each 
 other, and requiring very different treatment; one is attended 
 with a great degree of fever; the other, to which old people 
 are most liable, is of a very cold nature, and rather resembles 
 the palsy; those who have been afflicted with the latter kind, 
 having perhaps found relief from hot applications, and hearing 
 of some neighbour, in the height of youth, strength, and ful¬ 
 ness, seized with rheumatism, and suffering violent agonies, 
 strongly recommend to him the use of the same powerful ap¬ 
 plication which had done them so much good, and which is a 
 certain cure for the rheumatism; but this is a very great 
 mistake, and sometimes a very dangerous one; almost the 
 only points in which the treatment of these two kinds of 
 rheumatism agree, are those of avoiding bleak and damp air, 
 and keeping the bowels open. 
 
 A person who is seized with acute rheumatism, should by 
 all means seek proper medical advice. It may arise from an 
 inward disorder which requires great skill and minute attor . 
 lion to ascertain. It may be of the same nature as an 3r- 
 (lammatory fever, and require bleeding and other lowerirg 
 
7 61 
 
 scoRBruo nm,fo T 7RS. 
 
 treatment. In either case, strong outward applications can 
 not do any good, awl rrny do aotowft injuty $ And where a 
 mistake is so easily made, the only security against it is in 
 the advice of one, whose professional skill and experience 
 qualify him to judge, not only between things that are oppo¬ 
 site to each other, but between those in which there are 
 many points of close resemblance, but at the same time some 
 of essential difference. 
 
 If, however, any circumstance should render it impossible 
 to obtain medical advice, or even if some time must needs 
 elapse before it can be obtained, it will at all events be pru¬ 
 dent to abstain from meat, beer, and every thing of a heating 
 nature, and to open the bowels with some cooling medicine. 
 Some relief may probably be afforded by the application ot 
 colewort leaves, applied at night and morning, in the same 
 manner as is directed for dressing a blister. The warm bath 
 also is likely to be beneficial, but great care must be taken to 
 avoid chilling afterwards. 
 
 For the chronic or cold rheumatism in elderly people, flan¬ 
 nel is one of the best remedies, or rather preventatives. It 
 may be useful to rub the limb most affected with soap lini¬ 
 ment, or camphor liniment, or even with the bare hand. 
 Stone bottles filled with hot water, or bricks which have been 
 boiled, will be found very comfortable for keeping the feet 
 warm. Mustard whey is a very proper drink; the person 
 should freely use mustard, horseradish, and other hot pun¬ 
 gent plants; a table-spoonful of white mustard seed may be 
 taken in a glass of warm svater or ale, two or three times a 
 
 Scorbutic Humours. 
 
 Persons who are liable to scorbutic humours should avoid 
 salt meat, fat and luscious things, and spirituous liquors; they 
 should eat all kinds of vegetables, especially greens and salads, 
 lettuce, endive, dandelion, sorrel, watercress, and others; they 
 should, as much as possible, live upon milk, using whey or but¬ 
 termilk as their ordinary drink; cyder also is very beneficial, 
 and sweet wort, which may be prepared in the following man- 
 i of. Put a handful of malt in a large teapot, add to it as 
 
OF FAINTING AWAY. 
 
 765 
 
 much water that has boiled, but is now somewhat cooled, as 
 will thoroughly moisten it; let it stand on the hob (hut not 
 too near the fire) for an hour or more, then fill up the tea¬ 
 pot with boiling water; and when it has become cool enough 
 pour it off and drink it. 
 
 The Itch. 
 
 Cleanliness generally keeps off such filthy disorders, and 
 when they do appear, cleanliness is absolutely essential to their 
 cure. Sometimes, however, such a misfortune may acciden¬ 
 tally occur to the cleanliest people, and a great mortification it 
 must be to them; however, it is not likely to last as long with 
 them, or be as difficult to cure as where it is nourished and 
 fed by filthiness. Persons should be on their guard against 
 taking quack medicines, which are in general either useless or 
 pernicious. The old fashioned medicine, sulphur and treacle, 
 is perhaps one of the best; and persons thus affected should 
 wash themselves every night going to bed with warm milk, 
 in which the roots of white hellebore have been boiled. The 
 roots may be got either at the druggists, or at the physic 
 herb-shops in Covent-garden market; they are better used 
 fresh, and should be cut in pieces. 
 
 Of Fainting away. 
 
 This is often occasioned, especially in delicate persons, by 
 fear, grief, or other strong affections of the mind ; by loss of 
 blood, over fatigue, breathing a close confined air, and other 
 causes. When such a circumstance occurs, it is wrong to 
 crowd round the person, and tease him with irritating appli 
 cations, such as burnt feathers, hartshorn, &c. The first 
 thing to be done, is to let in a stream of fresh air, or re- 
 move the person to where it can be enjoyed; let him be 
 placed in a lying posture with the head a little raised ; let all 
 tio-ht strings and bandages be loosened ; not more than one 
 or two persons should stand near; a few drops of cold water 
 mav be sprinkled in the face, and vinegar applied to the tem¬ 
 ple and nostrils. When the person begins to revive, he 
 should, as soon as possible, swallow a little cold water 5 with a 
 few drops of spirits of hartshorn, or sal volatile, or even cold 
 water alone. 
 
766 
 
 OF ACCIDENT6. 
 
 Faintness is sometimes accompanied with hysterics, or a 
 convulsive kind of crying and laughing; this should be 
 i treated much in the same way, excepting that as it is often 
 occasioned or aggravated by wind on the stomach, relief may 
 i be obtained by supporting the person a few moments in a 
 standing posture, by which means the wind is dispersed; it 
 may be useful also gently to rub the stomach with the palm 
 of the hand. 
 
 A common fainting or hysteric fit is generally pretty well 
 understood; but should you see a person apparently in full 
 health, in an instant deprived of sense and motion, and lying 
 insensible to all ordinary attempts to arouse him, let medical 
 help be immediately called for; in the mean time let the per¬ 
 son be placed in a sitting posture; see that neither the neck 
 cloth, or any other string or bandage obstructs the circulation; 
 and if he should discover any disposition to vomit, let it be 
 promoted by the use of any emetic medicine which may be at 
 hand, or by tickling the inside of the gullet with the fine 
 end of a feather, or by pouring down large quantities of warm 
 water. 
 
 The Piles. 
 
 \ ~ 
 
 Persons afflicted with, or even liable to, this trouble¬ 
 some complaint, should be careful to keep their bowels gently 
 open by means of an electuary of sulphnr, cream of tartar, and 
 magnesia, in equal parts, made up with treacle or honey; or 
 the following may be tried : Take of Copayva from ten to 
 twenty drops in milk three times a day; and either of the 
 following ointments may be used occasionally; hog’s lard 
 and sulphur; or, two parts of goulard ointment and one part 
 of powdered galls. 
 
 Of Accidents. 
 
 If a person is seen to fall into the water, while some are 
 employed in getting out the body, let others be immediately 
 dispatched in different directions for medical aid; not a 
 moment is to be lost in such a case; if one doctor is not at 
 home, another may, and all will be ready, immediately on 
 hearing of the accident, to fly to the spot and render their 
 best assistance. 
 
I 
 
 OF ACCIDENTS. 7G? 
 
 As soon as the body is taken out of the water, let the wet 
 clothes he taken off^ and the body thoroughly dried bv 
 rubbing with cloths, then wrapped in a warm blanket and car¬ 
 ried to the nearest house, keeping the face upwards, and the 
 shoulders a little raised. Having placed it on a bed or mat- 
 tiass made thoroughly hot with a warming pan, rub it dili¬ 
 gently, but gently, with warm cloths or flannels all over, but 
 especially over the belly, chest, and limbs; after a little time, 
 the warmth of the body should be still farther promoted, by 
 by placing it in a moderately warm bath of water, brewer’s 
 grains, sand, ashes, or any other matter most readily obtained. 
 Or if there be not a sufficient quantity of these things at hand 
 to immerse the whole body, flannel bags filled with them may 
 be applied to the hands, feet, and under the armpits; or 
 cloths made hot by a warming pan, or heated bricks, or bot¬ 
 tles filled, or bladders half filled, with hot water, or blankets 
 and flannels wrung out of hot water, may be wrapped round 
 the body and renewed as they become cold. 
 
 While these operations are going on, the pipe of a pair of 
 bellows should be applied to one nostril, the other nostril and 
 the mouth being closed; blow gently, till the breast be a little 
 raised, then let the mouth be left free, and an easy pressure 
 be made on the chest. This imitation of natural breathing 
 should be repeated until signs of life appear, and then gra¬ 
 dually discontinued. If bellows are not at hand, blow in the 
 same manner with your breath through a quill, a reed, a 
 small pipe, or a piece of stiff paper curled up like a funnel. 
 When breathing begins, touch the inside of the nostrils with 
 a feather dipped in spirits of hartshorn, or sharp mustard, or 
 blow some pepper or snuff into them. 
 
 If no medical gentleman has arrived to give directions, it 
 will be right to administer an injection* without delay; it 
 should be composed of a pint of warm water, mixed with a 
 wine glass full of any kind of spirits, or a table-spoonful of 
 
 * If the apparatus for thi3 purpose Is not at hand, a substitute may be 
 aontrived with a tobacco pipe and a leather glove ; or twenty things that 
 r.re at hand will be thought of and contrived if any one be present with 
 their wits about them. 
 
768 
 
 OF ACCIDENTS. 
 
 spirits of hartshorn, or essence of peppermint, or a large fea- 
 spoonful of flour of mustard. When the person recovers so 
 far as to be able to swallow, give him, by spoonfuls, a little 
 warm wine, or spirits mixed with water. When life is com¬ 
 pletely restored, the sufferer should remain at rest in a warm 
 bed, taking warm and nourishing drinks, by which perspi¬ 
 ration may be promoted and strength sustained. Though 
 success may not seem to attend the efforts used, they should 
 nevertheless be persevered in for four hours at least; and if 
 they should prove successful, they must not be too speedily 
 suspended; several persons have been lost from being quitted 
 too soon after recovery had commenced. All violent and 
 rough usage is to be avoided, such as shaking the body, roll¬ 
 ing it over a cask, holding it up by the heels, also rubbing it 
 with salt or spirits, or injecting the smoke of tobacco.—The 
 above directions are compiled from the publications of 
 Humane Societies, by which all these rough means are 
 strictly forbidden. 
 
 If apparent death is occasioned by hanging, the same treat¬ 
 ment is to be observed as in apoplexy, keeping the head 
 raised, and endeavouring to promote circulation through the 
 neck, until some one arrives who can render more effectual aid 
 by bleeding. 
 
 For suffocation by noxious vapours, especially those of 
 burning charcoal, the same treatment is to be observed as in 
 the case of fainting. 
 
 If opium, laudanum, nightshade, pr poisonous fungus mis¬ 
 taken for mushrooms, or any other stupifying poison have 
 been taken, or even spirituous liquors in such a quantity as 
 to produce the like effect (that of sickness, giddiness, stupor, 
 and drowsiness), give instantly a table-spoonful of flour of mus¬ 
 tard in water, and repeat it with large draughts of warm water 
 till vomiting takes place; or give large draughts of warm 
 water, or milk and water mixed with oil, or melted butter or 
 lard. If the person becomes so insensible as not to be easily 
 roused, give the mustard in vinegar instead of water, dash 
 basons of cold water at the head, and rub and shake the body 
 actively and constantly. If the poison be of a metallic kind, 
 as arsenic, antimony, mercury, or when any unknown sub- 
 
OF WOUNDS. 
 
 769 
 
 stance or matter has been swallowed, and there have ensued 
 heat of the mouth and throat, violent pain of the stomach, 
 and vomiting, immediately drink plentifully of warm water, in 
 which common soap is dissolved or scraped , from three or 
 four ounces to half a pound may be taken. 
 
 When oil of vitriol, spirits of salt, or aquafortis have been 
 spilt upon the skin, immediately wash the part with large 
 quantities of water, adding to it, as soon as they can be pro¬ 
 cured, soap, potash, soda, or chalk. 
 
 Of Wounds. 
 
 All the good that can be done by any outward applica¬ 
 tion is to keep the parts soft and clean, and to defend 
 them from the air. Not only no good, but a great deal 
 of mischief is done by the application of hot balsams, 
 tinctures, and oils. Provided a wound does not bleed exces¬ 
 sively, it heals all the better for being allowed to bleed freely. 
 In case therefore of a common cut, the best way is merely to 
 tie it up with dry lint or rag, or lay on a piece of common ad¬ 
 hesive plaster, and in nine cases out of ten, it will heal without 
 difficulty. 
 
 But if the bleeding is excessive, especially if it appears to 
 start from one or two particular points, it may be right to apply 
 to them a little dossil of lint, and press it down with the finget 
 till the bleeding stops; if it cannot thus be stopped, and the 
 blood jumps out by pulses, it becomes necessary to prevent it 
 from passing into the part, until the open vessel is safely 
 closed. This must be done in the following manner: Sup¬ 
 pose the cut is in the arm, take a round pincushion, or any 
 thing of that form and degree of hardness, place it on the 
 middle part, of the inner side, of the upper part of the arm; 
 over it, tie a piece of strong tape, leaving room to slip under¬ 
 neath, on the opposite side from the cushion, a piece of stick 
 (a cedar pencil will do as well as any thing); by twisting this 
 round and round, the tape may be tightened till the bleed¬ 
 ing stops. A piece of stiff leather or folded cloth should 
 be placed underneath to prevent the skin being injured by the 
 tight twisting of the tape. In the same manner, if the 
 tvound is in the leg, this apparatus may be applied to the 
 
 5 F 
 
OF WOLXDS. 
 
 7 <0 
 
 hollow part on the inside, and ajout the middle of the thigh; 
 by which the bleeding from any part of the limb below this 
 application may be checked, until proper assistance can be ob¬ 
 tained. 
 
 But though there may have been no difficulty in stopping 
 the bleeding, the part may become inflamed. The best ap¬ 
 plication in this case is a bread and water poultice ; and if 
 the person is also in a feverish state of body, some opening 
 medicine may be necessary, and all heating food must be ab¬ 
 stained from. If the wound is in such a part as that a poul¬ 
 tice cannot be conveniently applied, it may be frequently 
 fomented with warm water, and dressed twice a day with the 
 leaves of the herb plaintain, prepared in the same manner as 
 colewort leaves for dressing a blister; they are at once cool¬ 
 ing, cleansing, and healing, 
 
 If, in consequence of a wound, a gathering should take 
 place, and prove obstinate to heal, the difficulty generally 
 arises from the state of the blood; to correct this, it may be 
 advisable to take the old fashioned electuary of brimstone 
 and treacle, and at the same time an infusion of gentian, or 
 Columba root, or camomile flowers with cloves; or a prepa¬ 
 ration of bark ; and dress the wound twice a day with chewed 
 bread and butter, applied warm from the mouth. 
 
 In case of a violent blow, keep rags well wetted with a 
 mixture of vinegar and water, constantly applied to the part, 
 wetting them again as they become dry; or a piece of the 
 thickest brown cartridge paper, dipped in spring water and 
 bound on the part; keeping it often wetted afresh, will an¬ 
 swer very well. A recipe will be given to bruise oil and 
 ointment, which are very valuable to keep in a family; if ap¬ 
 plied immediately after a blow, they very soon abate the 
 swelling, remove the tenderness, an I disperse the discoloured 
 blood. 
 
 In case of a sprain, let the foot be laid up (or the arm 
 slung), so that no weight bear upon it, and apply a cold poul¬ 
 tice of vinegar and oatmeal, to be renewed twice or thrice a 
 day. If the inflammation be considerable, apply five or six 
 ,f eeches. 
 
 In case of a person’s clothes being set on fire instead of 
 
FOK A STING OR BITE. 7?] 
 
 throwing open the door and running into the road (as is too 
 often done by the sufferer in the extreme of terror, or by 
 those around him, who, instead of rendering aid, run out to 
 seek it), it is of the first importance that the person should 
 endeavour to command sufficient presence of mind to throw 
 himself on the ground, and roll in a carpet, blanket, curtain, 
 cloak, coat, or whatever other thick woollen article may be at 
 hand. If any other persons are present, they should assist 
 in doing this, and be particularly careful to keep all doors and 
 windows shut. 
 
 For a Burn or Scald. 
 
 Let the clothes be taken off’ with great care and tender¬ 
 ness; then apply spirits of turpentine, or lay on a thick plas¬ 
 ter of fresh yeast, renewing it as often as it becomes hot or 
 dry; or dash the part with cold water in which some yeast 
 has been stirred—or with vinegar—or with strong brine—or 
 with the liquid which runs from potatoes sliced thin and 
 sprinkled with salt—or cut a large cucumber in slices and 
 lay it on the part. A medical gentleman has lately published 
 the following recipe, which he recommends as the very best 
 application for a burn or scald. Half a pint of clear lime 
 water, quarter of a pint of olive oil, and a table-spoonful 
 of spirits of turpentine, to be beaten up into a thin ointment, 
 which is to be applied frequently upon fine rags, or lint, 60 as 
 >.0 keep them always moist. If the accident happens in a 
 town, these things may be easily obtained ; but in a country 
 village, or lone house, it is desirable to know some remedy 
 that maybe immediately within reach; for that reason the 
 above several simple yet approved remedies are mentioned, 
 that in case one may not be at hand, another which is may 
 be resorted to without loss of time. 
 
 For any kind of Sting or venomous Bite. 
 
 Apply cucumber, honey, or yeast, as directed for a burn. 
 If the bite be of a dangerous kind, as that of an adder, give 
 immediately a tea-spoonful of spirits of hartshorn in a wine¬ 
 glass of cold water, and forty drops more, every fifteen 
 
772 
 
 TO WASH LIME OR DIRT OL T OF THE EYE. 
 
 minutes, till the violent symptoms abate, ov till medical advice 
 is procured: for a child the dose must be lessened according 
 to its age. 
 
 For swallowing a Wasp. 
 
 Make a strong brine of common salt and water or, mux 
 vinegar, oil, and honey in equal parts, a spoonful or two of 
 either of these got down immediately after the accident will 
 generally be successful. 
 
 A boil may be drawn to a head with a plaster of flour an 
 honey, renewed night and morning till it bursts; then dress 
 it with colewort or plaintain leaves till it has healed; or you 
 may use a poultice of linseed powder—or a Turkey fig boiled 
 in milk—or a boiled turnip—or onion—or a poultice of bread 
 and water, in which is shred the root of the large white gar¬ 
 den lily—or scrape the fat of raw bacon and apply; this lat¬ 
 ter will serve both to draw and heal it. 
 
 For a IVhitlow. 
 
 Hold your finger in a tea-cupful of distilled vinegar five oi 
 six minutes, and repeat the same five or six times. The 
 same applied to any wound occasioned by a rusty nail pre¬ 
 vents its festering. 
 
 To wash Lime or Dirt out of the Eyes. 
 
 The eye should be immediately syringed with warm w'ater, 
 so as to wash out every particle of lime or mortar, even from 
 underneath the upper eyelid, which may be done by setting 
 the point of the syringe (or squirt) under the outer edge Oi 
 the upper lid ; the eye should be kept constantly open, and 
 on no account covered with a bandage; but a green shade, 
 like the front of a bonnet, may be worn, and the eye frequently 
 fomented with water for several days by means of a large 
 sponge. If the inflammation should not subside after wash¬ 
 ing the eye, it will be proper to apply five or six leeches as 
 near the eye as possible; the person should also take a little 
 cooling physic. 
 
THE THRUSH IN INFANTS- 
 
 its 
 
 Certain Cure for the Cramp. 
 
 An effectual preventative for the cramp in the calves of the 
 legs, which is a most grievous pain, is to stretch out the heel 
 of the leg as far as possible, at the same time drawing up the 
 toes towards the body. This will frequently stop a fit of the 
 cramp after it has commenced; and a person will, after a few' 
 times, be able, in general, to prevent the fit coming on, 
 though its approach be between sleeping and waking. Per¬ 
 sons subject to this complaint should have a board fixed at 
 the bottom of the bed, against which the foot should be 
 pressed when the pain commences. 
 
 The Thrush in Infants. 
 
 The thrush, will be seen in small white spots, resembling 
 curdled milk; they begin on the tongue, and in the corners 
 of the mouth, and inside of the cheeks, and spread over the 
 palate and throat, as far as can be seen; the child generally 
 suffers from gripes and frequent stools of an unnatural appear¬ 
 ance, and which occasion great soreness of the part. While 
 the spots are white, no attempt should be made to get them 
 off. If the child can suck, no food whatever should be given 
 it besides the breast; but a tea-spoonful of the following 
 liquid may be often put into its mouth ;—The white of a raw 
 egg beat up with a little fine loaf sugar powdered, and mixed 
 with two or three table-spoonfuls of cold water. Or it has 
 been found very successful to wash the mouth frequently 
 with liquor made in the following manner : Take a turnip or 
 two, and an equal weight of mutton, cut them up into small 
 pieces, and stew a long time in a small quantity of water. 
 This is both cleansing, healing, and nourishing, and is parti¬ 
 cularly useful when a child is very weakly, or cannot suck. 
 It is also very useful when a grown person in illness has, or is 
 supposed, to have the thrush. In three or four days the 
 spots turn yellow; the mouth may then be gently rubbed 
 with a little borax, finely powdered, and mixed with about 
 eight times its weight of honey, or fine sugar. If the mouth 
 should become so much crusted, that the child cannot suck, 
 it should be fed with warm cow’s milk, not thickened, but to 
 
774 
 
 SICKNESS. 
 
 six spoonfuls of milk may be added half a one of white wine’ 
 and the mother should have her breasts drawn for a day or 
 two. Half a drachm of manna may be given, dissolved in a 
 little warm water; or four grains of calcined magnesia, that is, 
 about as much as will cover a sixpence. 
 
 Stuffing of the Head , or Snuffles. 
 
 A very troublesome complaint, which renders it difficult 
 for a child to breathe or suck. A little salad oil, or fresh 
 butter, should be rubbed on the bridge of the nose at night, 
 which will loosen the filth, and admit of its being thoroughly 
 cleansed in the morning. 
 
 Oppression of the Chest and Hoarseness. 
 
 Apply a plaster of coarse brown paper, spread with deer’s 
 suet, or old tallow, and dipped in rum; at the same time 
 giving, occasionally, a tea-spoonful, or dessert-spoonful, accord¬ 
 ing to the child’s age, of syrup of violets, and oil of sweet 
 almonds. If these should not afford speedy relief, it may bo 
 necessary to apply a leech or two to the chest; but on this 
 you will seek better advice; however, prevention is better 
 than cure. If proper attention were paid to the management 
 of infants, we should not hear of half the number suffering 
 and dying of inflammation of the lungs. 
 
 Sickness. 
 
 Sickness at the stomach in young infants is sometimes oc¬ 
 casioned by a disordered state of the milk, or by having taken 
 food that remains undigested. Nurses should carefully avoid 
 all violent passions and agitations of the mind, a too long con¬ 
 finement of the milk, and such food as is unwholesome for them¬ 
 selves, and as they find, by experience, renders the milk un¬ 
 wholesome ; such, for instance, as veal or pork underdone, 
 pickled vegetables, or cold sour unripe fruits. When an in¬ 
 fant becomes suddenly pale, with a blackness round the mouth, 
 dullness of the eyes, and the flesh cold and flabby, if the 
 mother feels conscious that in some way her milk may be dis¬ 
 ordered, even though the child should not attempt to retch, 
 she may be sure that it must do so before it can be relieved. 
 
SICKNESS. 
 
 77b 
 
 nnil should endeavour to promote it. Sometimes this may be 
 done by merely setting the child upright, or rather ste oping 
 forward, rubbing the stomach, and keeping it in gentle 
 motion; but if in a few minutes the child should not be re¬ 
 lieved either by vomiting or stool, it will be proper to give 
 it a tea-spoonful of ipecacuanha wine, and repeat it in ten 
 minutes if the first has not operated. If after the second 
 dose, the uneasiness should continue, and yet vomiting not be 
 produced, she should give it the breast. If it will suck, most 
 likely the whole contents of the stomach will be speedily dis¬ 
 charged, and the infant presently relieved. It is very likely, 
 however, that its bowels will be afterwards disordered, and re¬ 
 quire the same attention as will be directed in the next 
 paragraph. 
 
 The bowels of infants being very tender, are often dis¬ 
 ordered in different ways. Sometimes they suffer from vio¬ 
 lent cholic pains. In this case the feet are drawn up, the 
 child screams excessively, and discovers great pain on being 
 touched, ever so tenderly, about the belly. "When the 
 disease occurs, if it be slight, give a dose of castor oil ; this 
 alone will frequently give relief; if it should not, there is 
 no better medicine than Dalby’s carminative. 
 
 Under a violent fit of pain of the kind described, great 
 relief is often afforded by the use of the warm bath. Indeed 
 it is so generally serviceable in case of violent pain, or sudden 
 illness of almost any kind, the cause of which is not imme¬ 
 diately known, that no house where there are young children 
 should at any time be without hot water. It has been the 
 means of saving many a life in infancy. It may also be of 
 service, in violent pains of the bowels, to rub the part gently 
 with a little spirits, or liniment, in the palm of the hand before 
 a fire. 
 
 Some children suffer from costiveness. During infancy, 
 from two to four motions a day are proper; but if a child 
 have regularly one proper evacuation, and is thriving and 
 hearty, it will not be needful to interfere; less than this ought 
 not to be suffered without an attempt to procure it. Castor 
 oil is as good a medicine as any for this purpose : or the 
 laxative syrup mentioned in the list at the end of this chapter 
 
uF TEETHING. 
 
 nc 
 
 *—or a small piece of yellow soap may he introduced in the 
 same manner as the apparatus for an injection—or a stiff 
 parsley stalk, on the end of which has been rubbed a bit of 
 butter or lard. 
 
 Sometimes children are troubled with a looseness; if this 
 (as is often the case) be occasioned by teething, it will be 
 right to give the child a laxative medicine, as rhubarb and 
 magnesia, or castor oil. If it appears that the stomach as 
 well as the bowels are out of order, it may be well first to 
 give an emetic, then a dose of castor oil, and then Dalby’s 
 carminative, according to the directions, until the disorder is 
 quite removed. The same course may be observed, omitting 
 the emetic, when an infant passes clay-coloured stools of a 
 most offensive smell; its bowels should be gently rubbed with 
 spirits or soap liniment. When children are at all, or in any 
 way, disordered in the bowels, there are three things that 
 require especial care, viz. First, To avoid cold. Second, Diet. 
 Third, Cleanliness. The best food they can take, if they must 
 have any beside the breast, is either arrowroot, or a piece of 
 top crust of bread (quite free from crumb), boiled a long time 
 ii^water, with a small bit of cinnamon; it should boil till it 
 becomes a peifect jelly, and be sweetened with loaf sugar. 
 W hen a child who is griped suffers unusual pain in passing 
 its stools, the following will be found beneficial: Dissolve 
 one ounce of gum arabic in a small quantity of water, and 
 frequently give the child a little warm milk, mixed with as 
 much of the gum as will make it taste rich and sticky; it may 
 be sweetened with a little loaf sugar. 
 
 Of Teething. 
 
 All children suffer more or less during the pqriod of teeth¬ 
 ing. But their sufferings are often increased, and even their 
 lives endangered by improper management; such as feediim 
 them upon strong heating meat, or even highly sweetened 
 food, and allowing them to drink beer, wine, or spirits. Most 
 children who have been thus treated, die either while cutting 
 their teeth or under the attack of diseases which must be ex¬ 
 pected for all children, measles, hooping cough, &c. The 
 best general direction that can be given, on behalf of teething 
 
OP CONVULSIONS'. 
 
 771 
 
 children, is, that particular attention be paid to their general 
 health ; that they be properly managed in point of air, exer¬ 
 cise, cleanliness, and food j that the bowels be kept regularly 
 open, and that every thing of a heating or irritating nature 
 be carefully avoided. 
 
 If a child is in violent pain, and very feveiish in conse¬ 
 quence of teething, it will probably be relieved by putting it 
 into a warm bath. If he can be induced to take hold of any 
 thing, a piece of wax candle, fresh liquorice root, crust of 
 bread, or an ivory or bone ring, should be put into his hand, 
 with which he may rub the gums, and thus assist the tooth in 
 forcing its way through. If the child will not do it himself, 
 the mother should gently rub the gums with her finger, and 
 a little honey or syrup of saffron. 
 
 If the child be very weak, and his bowels disordered, he 
 ought to be fed twice a day with beef tea, taken out as much 
 as possible in the open air when the weather will admit, 
 washed plentifully with cold water, and sponged with cold 
 water and vinegar. 
 
 A Burgundy pitch plaster is sometimes serviceable, worn 
 between the shoulders the whole time of teething. 
 
 o 
 
 It is often necessary to lance the gums; this is but a 
 momentary operation, and often affords immediate relief. 
 
 If the child should notonly be very feverish, but drowsy and 
 heavy in his head, some opening medicine must be given; and 
 if, after its operation, and the use of the warm bath, relief is 
 not obtained, a leech or two, according to the strength of the 
 child, may be applied under the ear. It may be necessary to 
 apply a blister on the nape of the neck; but if a child should 
 suffer so much as to require these remedies, in all probability 
 medical advice will be sought, and it is needless to give any 
 farther directions. 
 
 Of Convulsions. 
 
 When an infant suddenly turns pale, his eyes and features 
 distorted, his limbs agitated, or suddenly stretched out, his 
 hands clenched, and he sometimes lies in a lifeless miserable 
 state; at others violently screaming: the first thing to be 
 done is completely to strip the infant, and carefully examine 
 
 5 G 
 
THE CUOUP 
 
 T78 
 
 every part of his person, in order to ascertain whether the ill¬ 
 ness may arise from any accidental cause. Then as quicklv 
 as possible put him into a warm bath, as warm as the hand 
 can easily bear it; if he does not soon recover, some spirits 
 of hartshorn may be added to the water. If the vessels of 
 the neck appear full, and the stomach oppressed, a wetted fea¬ 
 ther should be forced into the upper part of the throat, so as 
 if possible to produce vomiting. The warm bath in general 
 affords alleviation, and therefore should always be resorted to 
 without delay, especially if the fit is attended with paleness 
 and chills ; but if the skin be burning hot, relief is sometimes 
 obtained by sponging the face and neck with cold water and 
 vinegar. 
 
 When the fit is off, the child’s mouth should be examined, 
 and the gums lanced over those teeth which appear the most 
 advanced; some opening medicine should be given ; and amber 
 oil, or oil and hartshorn, rubbed over the back bone every six 
 or eight hours. 
 
 A Cold. 
 
 When a child has a severe inflammatory cold, an emetic 
 should be given; its bowels kept properly open ; it should be 
 put in a warm bath every night while the cold lasts, and 
 should be rubbed with amber oil over the sides of the chest 
 every six or eight hours. 
 
 The Croup. 
 
 The croup generally begins in a hoarse barking cough; 
 afterwards an alarming difficulty of breathing comes on at 
 night, and the breathing and cough are attended with a pecu¬ 
 liar kind of sound ; a great quantity of thick phlegm is col¬ 
 lected, which can seldom be thrown off. As this is a very 
 fatal complaint, and often very rapid in its progress, proper 
 advice should be sought on the first appearance of it; but 
 when that cannot be had, if a child has discovered the slightest 
 degree of the above symptoms, care should be taken to have 
 warm water in the house, and alight burning. There should 
 also be close at hand, a little of the very coarsest brown sugar, 
 mixed with fresh butter. If the child wakes with hoarseness, 
 
 I 
 
THE CROUP. 
 
 779 
 
 cough, or difficulty of breathing, give a tea-spoonful of this 
 mixture; it will very possibly soften the throat, loosen the 
 phlegm, and thus give relief; if so, it may be repeated 
 through the night as often as occasion requires; if it should 
 occasion sickness, it will be all the better. It often has given 
 immediate relief in a croupy cough and cold, which though 
 not nearly so dangerous as the true croup, have sometimes 
 been mistaken for it, and occasioned great distress and alarm 
 to parents, especially if at a distance from medical advice. If 
 these simple means should not afford relief, the child should 
 be put into a warm bath, and after remaining in for at least 
 ten minutes, should be rubbed perfectly dry, wrapped in flan¬ 
 nel, and put to bed in a moderately warm room. If the but¬ 
 ter and sugar have not produced vomiting, or if evident relief 
 has not been afforded, some medicine should be immediately 
 given which will both vomit and purge. Calomel is the most 
 approved and efficacious, but it is too hazardous to be recom¬ 
 mended in a work like this. An emeti of antimonial wine, 
 and a dose of castor oil, if those medicines are within reach, 
 may be ventured upon ; but, let it be repeated, only under 
 the absolute impossibility of obtaining proper advice. If upon 
 vomiting being produced, relief is obtained, it will not be ne¬ 
 cessary to use any other powerful means ; but if this should 
 not be the case, several leeches, and afterwards a blister, must 
 be applied to the chest. While the disease lasts, if the child 
 be not weaned, he should take nothing besides the breast; 
 otherwise nothing more than liquids, such as barley water, 
 apple or orange whey, milk and water, or toast and water; as 
 he recovers, the food must be of a more nourishing kind, but 
 given in small quantities, and often repeated ; arrowroot, sago, 
 milk thickened with isinglass ; and when all fever has ceased, 
 chicken broth or beef tea. Great care must be taken to 
 avoid cold and damp. 
 
 There is a complaint very much resembling the croup, to 
 which some children are liable during teething; a crowing 
 noise very much like that of croup comes on suddenly, and 
 the child appears in danger of suffocation, but the cough, if 
 any is not hoarse, and the breathing between whiles is free; 
 by these marks it may he distinguished from the regular 
 
780 
 
 WORMS. 
 
 croup. The best method to pursue in this case is, to watch 
 the gums, and lance them as required; to open the bowels 
 freely with sal polychrest, or rhubarb and magnesia; to give 
 Dalby’s carminative every four or five hours; and to rub the 
 outside of the throat every six hours with oil of amber, or oil 
 and hartshorn. 
 
 Cutaneous Eruptions. 
 
 Teething children are frequently liable to a disagreeable 
 breaking out over the face; a like circumstance sometimes 
 follows measles, or any other complaint of a lowering tendency, 
 [n either case proper attention must be paid to the general 
 health; but for an application to the part, nothing is more 
 safe and efficacious than tripe liquor; it should be obtained 
 from the tripe boilers, fresh and warm, as often as possible; 
 this will be perhaps twice or three times a week; wh it re¬ 
 mains after the first using must be kept in a cool place, ai d 
 a little made warm for use when required. The part affected 
 should be well washed at least every night and morning. 
 
 Chilblains. 
 
 To avoid them, be careful never to sit in wet shoes—never 
 to come near the fire when very cold—to take plenty of ex¬ 
 ercise, and, if needful, to wear gloves and socks of oiled silk 
 or wash leather. If they appear, let them be rubbed every 
 night with soap liniment, or with a red onion cut in half, and 
 sprinkled thickly with common salt. If they break, let a thin 
 plaster of the following ointment be applied once or twice a 
 day. One ounce of deer’s suet or hog’s lard, one ounce of 
 bee’s wax, and half an ounce of oil of turpentine, melted and 
 stirred well together. 
 
 Worms . 
 
 To prevent them, avoid unwnolesome food, especially, in 
 infancy a sloppy pap often given to children, made by sopping 
 bread in tea, or hot water, and generally sweetening it most 
 unmercifully; and for children, all sweet or sour trash, gin¬ 
 gerbread, sugarplums, unripe fruits, &c. If a child is sus- 
 pocted of having worms, give it six or eight common raisins 
 
MEASLES. 
 
 78) 
 
 every morning fasting; after some days, give it a dose of 
 sal polychrest, according to its age, and in three days 
 another; or, if it be preferred, castor oil or senna tea will 
 answer the latter purpose. Tea made of rue, camomile 
 flowers, or worm crude, are beneficial; but it is very difficult 
 to get children to take them in sufficient quantity, and with 
 perseverance enough to do much good. The following recipe 
 for the cure of worms is strongly recommended. Twenty 
 grains of worm seed, and twenty grains of rhubarb, well mixed 
 in a tea-cupful of treacle ; a table-spoonful to be given every 
 morning early and fasting; continue for a week, then leave oft 
 a week, then go on again till all symptoms of worms have 
 ceased. 
 
 Measles. 
 
 When a child appears heavy, drowsy, and feverish, sneezes 
 often, the eyes and nose run, and are red and inflamed, it may 
 be supposed that he is sickening for the measles. 'The first 
 thing to be done is to clear out his stomach and bowels, by 
 means of an emetic and purgative suited to his age; after 
 which he should be put into a warm bath, carefully dried and 
 kept in bed. It is necessary that he should be kept in one 
 temperature, or degree of warmth, but it is not necessary or 
 beneficial that that should be at all warmer than is agree¬ 
 able to a person in health. In cold weather a small fire in 
 the room may be desirable, but it would be improper when 
 the weather is warm; the light should be shaded from the 
 eves (which are extremely tender), but curtains should not 
 be drawn round the bed. No solid food must be thought of, 
 but plenty of warm drink given, such as barley water, bran 
 tea, orange or apple whey, grit gruel, &c. The measles ap¬ 
 pear at first on the breast, back, and forehead; they resemble 
 flea bites, and are not raised above the skin; they gradually 
 spread over the whole skin, and about two days after they 
 have so spread, begin to change to a brownish red, which 
 continues distinct during the third day ; after that it gradually 
 turns pale, and the skin becomes covered with branny scales, 
 like fine oatmeal. Sometimes there is a great degree ot 
 hoarseness, cough, and difficulty of breathing, and generally 
 
782 
 
 MEASI.ES. 
 
 considerable fever. If the fever should be high, with tight¬ 
 ness and pain in the forehead, and dryness of the throat, great 
 relief is often afforded by drawing in the steam of hot water 
 The warm bath may be frequently used, at least every night 
 and between whiles the steam may be drawn in, as recom¬ 
 mended for a sore throat. If the cough and oppression of 
 the chest are considerable, another and more active purgative 
 must be given, and a blister applied on the chest. It was 
 formerly common to bleed in measles, but is very seldom prac¬ 
 tised now; even leeches should not be applied unless consi¬ 
 dered absolutely necessary by a skilful medical man. The 
 measles of themselves tend very much to weaken the frame 
 and impoverish the blood, and this effect had not need be ag¬ 
 gravated. When the eruption begins to decline, the skin 
 should be sponged two or three times a day with warm milk 
 and water, and two or three doses of physic should be given 
 at the distance of every third or fourth morning. The food 
 must now be light, yet nourishing; milk, with isinglass or 
 gum arabic, puddings, and if there be little or no cough, beef 
 tea, and a small quantity of meat. A mutton chop lightly 
 broiled, or a slice out of a joint of roast mutton, is the best 
 meat that can be given to an invalid. If the child be weak, 
 as is almost always the case, it will be right to give him 
 strengthening medicines, and a small quantity of port wine 
 every day. To a child five years old and upwards, may be 
 allowed a table-spoonful of wine, in which he should dip a 
 bit of bread or biscuit. It does much more good taken so, 
 than hastily drank off. A child recovering from illness, will be 
 greatly relieved and strengthened by being frequently sponged 
 with cold water and vinegar. 
 
 The scarlet fever much resembles the measles, and requires 
 in ordinary cases much the same treatment. If the heat of 
 the skin be very great, it may be frequently sponged with 
 cold water and vinegar. If the throat is sore, it should be 
 frequently gargled; and if the head is very much affected, a 
 leech or two, according to the age of the child, may be ap¬ 
 plied to each temple. The physicking and strengthening may 
 be carried on the same as in the measles. These directions 
 w-11 suffice in slight attacks ; where the disease appears vio¬ 
 lent, the best medical advice ought to be obtained. 
 
FAM II Y MEDICINES. 
 
 783 
 
 Hooping Cough. 
 
 For this disease, gentle emetics should be given frequently; 
 the bowels kept properly open; the food should consist of 
 milk and vegetables; new flannel should be constantly worn 
 next the skin. Garlic ointment, or oil of amber, and spirits 
 of hartshorn, should be rubbed every night and morning on 
 the back bone, pit of the stomach, soles of the feet, and palms 
 of the hands. The child should not on any account be ex¬ 
 posed to a keen or damp air; but change of air is very bene¬ 
 ficial, if it can be taken without exposure to cold. Great 
 relief has been obtained in the hooping cough by the use of 
 alum, though it does not deserve all that has been said of it; 
 with some children it produces decided, and almost imme¬ 
 diately beneficial effects, but with others it takes no effect at 
 all. For those parents who choose to try it, the dose is a 
 grain for each year of the child’s age, to be given, finely pow¬ 
 dered, with a little sugar, or barley water, three times a day. 
 Much depends upon its being given with regularity and per¬ 
 severance. 
 
 Rickety Complaints. 
 
 Rickety children are pale, feverish and bloated, weak in 
 the joints, and disproportionately large in the head and belly. 
 The too frequent cause of this complaint is neglect of 
 wholesome food, cleanliness, and good nursing. If such be 
 the cause, the cure must be chiefly sought in an opposite 
 course; a strengthening diet, the cold, or tepid bath, with 
 salt in the water, and dry rubbing of the whole body daily, 
 and plenty of air and exercise. If this be not the cause, the 
 indisposition of the child cannot be accounted for; the advice 
 of some professional man should immediately be obtained. 
 
 FAMILY MEDICINES. 
 
 In family preparations of medicine care should be taken 
 to procure the drugs from a regular and respectable druggist, 
 on whom reliance can be placed. He should always be re- 
 
784 
 
 SALTS. 
 
 guested to write distinct.y on each packet the English name 
 and quantity of the drug it contains. Drugs kept in small 
 quantities for domestic use should be kept in phials closely 
 corked or with glass stoppers. Apothecaries’ scales and 
 weights should be used in making up medicines, and great 
 care taken to ascertain the exact dose that is proper to be taken. 
 Rash and ignorant persons often advise you to take a penny¬ 
 worth of this or a little of that, or a spoonful of the other. 
 It need scarcely be said that such vague directions deserve no 
 confidence or notice. The correct dose ought always to be 
 specified by weight or measure; otherwise serious mischief 
 may result from taking an improper dose even of a valuable 
 medicine. 
 
 Laxative Medicines. 
 
 Castor Oil .—In purchasing this, always ask for cold drawn. 
 The dose of this, for a child, is from half a tea-spoonful to 
 a dessert-spoonful; for a grown person, from a dessert spoon 
 to two table-spoonfuls. 
 
 Senna Tea .—On half an ounce of senna and one ounce of 
 figs, tamarinds, or raisins, pour a pint of boiling water; let it 
 stand for four or five hours, then strain it off; a small tea¬ 
 cupful may be taken every hour till it operates ; or the same 
 ingredients may be boiled in a pint and a half of water, till 
 reduced to a pint, and then strained off; in this case a smaller 
 dose will suffice. 
 
 Salts. — Epsom , Glauber, or Cheltenham Salts. 
 
 As many fatal mistakes have occurred by persons taking 
 spirits of salt, oxalic acid, or other poisonous drugs, supposing 
 them to be the safe and proper medicinal salts, here is a sim¬ 
 ple test by which to try them. Before wetting the salts, 
 take a small pinch and throw it in the fire; if it is the proper 
 thing, it will dissolve like snow; but if you see it spirtle, and 
 send up a blue flame (like a match) you may be sure it is 
 something amiss. Another thing by which you may ascer¬ 
 tain, is this ; medicinal salts have a bitter and soapy taste; 
 but the poisonous salts have a sharp acid burning taste. Ihe 
 best way of taking salts is, to dissolve an ounce in a pint of 
 
LAXATIVE SYRUP. 785 
 
 water, and take a wine-glassful every morning, if that be the 
 design, or every half hour till it operates. 
 
 Rhubarb and Magnesia. 
 
 For a grown person; a large tea-spoonful of magnesia, and 
 as much rhubarb as will lie on a sixpence; to be mixed in a 
 glass of cold water, or simple peppermint water. The best 
 way of mixing it is, to lay the powder at the top of the liquid, 
 let it stand till it has all settled, and then stir it up. 
 
 Sal polychrest and rhubarb make a very good laxative medi¬ 
 cine for children who are weak in the stomach and bowels. 
 Take one drachm of sal polychrest, and two scruples of rhu¬ 
 barb in powder; mix them, and make into twelve powders; one 
 or two to be taken daily. This is the dose for a child about 
 five years old. 
 
 Opening 'Electuary. 
 
 A very useful family medicine , particularly good for those 
 who are troubled with asthma or rheumatism. —One ounce of 
 senna powder, half an ounce of flour of sulphur, two drachms 
 of powdered ginger, half a drachm of saffron powder, four 
 ounces of honey. The size of a nutmeg to be taken night and 
 morning. 
 
 Another Electuary. 
 
 Equal parts of sulphur and cream of tartar mixed up witn 
 treacle. If an equal part of magnesia be added, it forms the 
 electuary recommended for the piles. 
 
 Laxative Syrup. 
 
 Take one ounce of senna leaves, and having carefully 
 picked out every bit of stalk, pour over them one pint of 
 boiling water; let this boil till one half remains, then pour 
 the whole into a china bason, and covering it up, set it aside 
 for twenty-four hours; strain it off through a linen rag, and 
 adding four ounces of treacle, put it over a fire till it becomes 
 so much heated as to be thoroughly mixed together. * When 
 cold, cork it up for use, and keep it in a cool place. This 
 syrup is chiefly intended for children; the dose may be from 
 
 5 ii 
 
 * 
 
786 
 
 il MET ICS. — IPECACUANHA LOZENOH8. 
 
 a tea-spoonful to a table-spoonful, according to the age and 
 strength of the child ; if not active enough, powdered jalap 
 ntay be added. 
 
 Calomel Powder. 
 
 Of calomel four grains, of jalap twelve grains, of ginger four 
 grains. This is a dose for a grown person; for a child it must 
 be proportionably lessened. It must be taken in jelly, honey, 
 treacle, or sugar; not in any liquid; and during its operation 
 all cold must be avoided. This medicine is good for indiges¬ 
 tion, and irregularity of the bile. 
 
 Dr. Bail lie's Prescription for Sicfc Headaches. 
 
 Turkey rhubarb, finely powdered, three grains; pure soda 
 powder dried, ten grains; sal volatile, fifteen drops. To be 
 taken between breakfast and dinner in a glass of warm water. 
 
 Electuary for the Rheumatism. 
 
 Communicated by an eminent Surgeon for the benefit oj 
 his poor neighbours. —Powdered gum-guaiacum eight grains, 
 Hour of sulphur two drachms, powdered rhubarb fifteen grains, 
 cream of tartar one drachm, powdered ginger thirty grains, nut¬ 
 meg eight grains. To be made into an electuary with two 
 ounces of clarified honey; a tea-spoonful to be taken night 
 and morning. 
 
 Powder for the Rheumatism. 
 
 One ounce of Turkey rhubarb, half an ounce of gum- 
 guaiacum, one ounce of sulphur, one ounce of flour of mustard, 
 one ounce of nitre; all beaten very fine in a mortar, a tea¬ 
 spoonful taken in a glass of warm water two or three times a 
 day; when the pain has abated less will do. 
 
 Emetics.—Ipecacuanha Po wder. 
 
 Dose for a grown person, fifteen or twenty grains, to be 
 taken in sugar and warm water; for a child, from three to 
 fifteen grains. Ipecacuanha or antimonial wine, two table- 
 Spoonfuls at first, and another in ten minutes, if the first 
 
FOR A DRY TICKLING COUGH. 
 
 78? 
 
 has not operated; for a child, from two tea-spoonfuls to a 
 table-spoonful (according to its age), every quarter of an hour, 
 till vomiting takes place. 
 
 Flour of mustard will act as an emetic.—Camomile tea, also, 
 Mhen the stomach is in a state to require it. 
 
 COUGH MEDICINES. 
 
 Essence of Malt , for a Cough or Hoarseness. 
 
 Two quarts of the very strongest sweet-wort, set over a slow 
 fire, in a very clean tin saucepan, with the lid on, till it boils; 
 then take off the lid, and stir it frequently, not taking 1 off the 
 scum, but stirring it down. When it has become so thick a 
 syrup as with difficulty to drop from the spoon, it is done; 
 when cold, put it into bottles, and cork it tight. Take two tea¬ 
 spoonfuls twice a day, and the last thing at night. 
 
 Vegetable Syrup for the same purpose. 
 
 Boil two table-spoonfuls of linseed in a pint of soft water, 
 till reduced to one half; strain it, and add one pint of lemon- 
 juice,* and three pounds of the coarsest brown sugar. Let it 
 simmer altogether over a slow fire, for upwards of two hours, 
 skimming it as the scum rises. This is supposed to be God- 
 bold’s celebrated and very expensive syrup. Whether or not 
 it is so, it has been found very successful in relieving hoarse¬ 
 ness or husky cough. 
 
 For a dry tickling Cough. 
 
 One ounce of spermaceti in powder, one table-spoonful of 
 honey, a table-spoonful of simple peppermint-water, and the 
 yolk of a new-laid egg; beat these up together, and take a 
 spoonful often. 
 
 Honey and vinegar, simmered together, have often been 
 
 found beneficial in an asthmatic cough. Or the following:_ 
 
 Sugar-candy, bruised, oil of sweet almonds, and lemon-juice 
 mixed together. 
 
 * At the season when lemons are very expensive, the same purpose 
 may be answered by using good white-wine vinegar. 
 
788 
 
 STRENGTHENING MEDICINES. 
 
 lough Drops. 
 
 For Hooping Cough , and for coughs in general , when not 
 attended with any great degree of fever. —Oxymel of squills, 
 paregoric elixir, antimonial wine, and sal volatile, in equal 
 parts. The dose for a grown person is two small tea-spoonfuls 
 at going to bed, and one tea-spoonful twice a day besides; for 
 children, according to their age. 
 
 Syrup for cough and soreness of the stomachy chiefly used for 
 infants. —Syrup of white poppies, oil of sweet almonds, of each 
 one ounce, antimonial wine one drachm. It may be made with 
 syrup of violets instead of syrup of poppies; and, unless the 
 child is very restless, will answer quite as well. The dose is 
 from a tea-spoonful to a dessert-spoonful (according to the 
 child’s age), two or three times a day. 
 
 White emulsion , for cough and soreness of the stomach .— 
 Six ounces (that is, twelve table-spoonfuls,) of boiling water, 
 sweetened with loaf sugar; when cold, put it in a large phial, 
 and add two ounces of the oil of sweet almonds, and as much 
 sal volatile as will cause the oil to mix with the water, so that 
 when you shake the bottle you will no longer see the oil, but 
 the whole will appear white like milk. A table-spoonful of 
 this may be taken frequently. If the cough is very trouble¬ 
 some, or the stomach very sore, half an ounce of tincture of 
 tolu may be added, or half an ounce of paregoric elixir; but 
 not if the person is feverish. 
 
 Strengthening Medicines. 
 
 Bark may be prepared for use, either by boiling or pouring 
 boiling water over it, in the following ways:—An ounce of bark 
 (bruised) boiled in a pint and a half of water, till reduced to 
 a pint; then strain off, and add a tea-spoonful of weak spirits 
 of vitriol; or, take one ounce of bark in powder, and one 
 ounce of tincture of myrrh; pour on them a pint of boiling 
 water; let them stand in a bottle two or three days, fre¬ 
 quently shaking it; after this, it may be taken; pour off the 
 liquor clear from the sediment, and take a wine-glassful twice 
 a day. This is a good medicine for children after the measles, 
 or any other lowering disease; the quantity, of course, must be 
 
RECIPE FOR THE HOOPING COUGH. 
 
 789 
 
 reduced according to their age. For a child of six or seven 
 years old, a table-spoonful will be a proper dose. 
 
 For a weak stomach and want of appetite. —One ounce of 
 camomile flowers, half an ounce of dried Seville orange or 
 lemon-peel (that is, the yellow rind quite free from the inner 
 white); pour on them a quart of boiling water, and take a 
 wine-glassful the first thing in the morning, and twice in the 
 day beside. 
 
 Another.— For nervous weakness and lowness of spirits .— 
 One ounce of red rose leaves dried, two drachms of gentian 
 roots, and two drachms of orange-peel (as above), cut in small 
 pieces; pour over them a quart of boiling water; let it stand 
 two or three hours, then strain off, and add a tea-spoonful of 
 weak spirits of vitriol. A glass of this may be taken twice or 
 thrice a day. 
 
 Daffy's Elixir , or Tincture of Senna. 
 
 One gallon of aquas vitae, half a pound of raisins, one drachm 
 of saffron, two ounces of anniseed, two ounces of coriander 
 seeds, two ounces of sweet fennel, to each two ounces of 
 parsley, two ounces of the best Turkey rhubarb, two ounces of 
 Spanish juice, two ounces of senna, two ounces of elicampane. 
 To stand in a gentle warmth for two or three weeks, shaking it 
 often; then stand two or three months; then filter, and add 
 half a gallon more spirit to the drugs. After standing six 
 weeks or two months, strain off the spirit; boil the drugs in a 
 little water; squeeze and mix the liquor with the above half 
 gallon of spirit, and it will make a useful family medicine. 
 
 The first tincture is far stronger than the bought Daffy’s, and 
 is very useful, administered with an equal quantity of warm 
 water; and ought never to be taken genuine but in very urgent 
 cases, free from fever. 
 
 Recipe for the Hooping Cough. 
 
 Honey four drachms, liquorice roots four drachms, flowers 
 of benzoin, opium one drachm, camphire two scruples, oil of 
 anniseed half a drachm, salt of tartar one ounce. Digest them 
 together three weeks in a quart of rectified spirits of wine, 
 closely stopt, often shaking it. Dose, sixty drops for an adult 
 three times a day, especially morning and evening; from twenty 
 
wo 
 
 INJECTIONS. 
 
 to thirty, for children of fourteen; ten, to one of four years; 
 three, to one of one year and under. 
 
 For Gravel or Stranguary. 
 
 One spoonful of honey, one spoonful of oatmeal. Pour to 
 them a quart of boiling water, stirring the mixture well; let it 
 cool, and drink half at night going to bed, and the other half 
 in the morning, fasting. Stir it well before drinking; repeat 
 this every day constantly, making the drink fresh every day. 
 
 To make an improved Tincture of Bark. 
 
 Red bark, grossly powdered, one ounce ; of snake root, in 
 powder, six drachms; saffron, one drachm and a half; cochineal, 
 ten grains; orange-peel, one ounce and a half. Steep the above 
 articles in one pint of the best brandy, and you will have a 
 tincture equally good as the famous Dr. Huxham’s. 
 
 Injections. 
 
 A common injection , from half a pint to a pint of thin gruel, 
 or warm milk and water; a piece of hog’s lard, or two table¬ 
 spoonfuls of oil, and the same of common salt, or coarse brown 
 sugar. If this be not considered sufficiently opening, instead 
 of the oil or lard, two or three table-spoonfuls of castor-oil; 
 and instead of the common salt, one ounce of Epsom salts may 
 be used. For children, a smaller quantity of all the ingre¬ 
 dients will suffice; and when children have long suffered from 
 sluggishness and irregularity of the bowels, and various power¬ 
 ful medicines have failed to set them to rights, this common 
 injection, repeated about three times, at the distance of one or 
 two days, has been found to clear the bowels, and bring them 
 into proper and regular action. 
 
 Sometimes, in cases of extreme relaxation of the bowels, an 
 injection of starch and laudanum is ordered; a quarter of a pint 
 of thin starch, moderately warm, and from twenty to sixty drops 
 of laudanum may be used. 
 
 In some cases of extreme weakness, or inability to swallow, 
 through quinsey, or other complaints of the throat, life has 
 been sustained for a considerable time by means of injections 
 of beef tea or other nourishing liquids; but in all such cases, 
 
FIG POULTICE. 
 
 791 
 
 whatever is necessary should be done undei the direction of 
 professional skill, and let those directions be implicitly followed. 
 
 OUTWARD APPLICATIONS. 
 
 Poultices . 
 
 When there is any inflammation, the best poultice that can 
 be made is of bread and water; they should be either boiled 
 together, or boiling - water poured over the bread (just as much 
 as the bread will suck up), then covered up close, till it is cool 
 enough to apply. 
 
 Bread and milk poultice may be made just in the same man¬ 
 ner; it is sometimes preferred, when there is not much inflam¬ 
 mation, but a slow gathering of matter which requires to be 
 drawn to a head. A bit of fresh lard, or a tea-spoonful of olive 
 oil, may be added to it. 
 
 There is no good purpose of a bread and milk poultice, 
 that is not better answered by the old fashioned bread and 
 butter poultice, and it will often succeed in cleansing and heal¬ 
 ing a sore, when several other poultices and applications have 
 been tried in vain. This poultice is particularly useful for a 
 sore that has been long kept open, owing to the blood being in 
 a poor state. 
 
 Linseed poultice is made by mixing an equal quantity of 
 bread crumbs and linseed powder, and gradually stirring to it 
 as much boiling water as will bring it to a proper consistency. 
 
 A roasted onion is a very good poultice, or an onion boiled 
 in a very small quantity of water or milk; when quite soft, 
 crumble in as much bread as will soak up the liquid, and beat 
 it all up together. 
 
 A Fig Poultice. 
 
 Get the finest Turkey figs; according to the size of the 
 poultice required, boil one, two, or more, in new milk; when 
 they have become very tender, and the milk has nearly boiled 
 away, pour off what remains, and with that well wash the 
 sore; beat up the figs, and lay them on as warm as can be 
 
792 
 
 « 
 
 FOMENTATIONS. 
 
 borne. This must be renewed morning and evening; so indeed 
 should all poultices. 
 
 Lily-root Poultice. 
 
 Take five or six cloves of the root of the large white garden 
 lily, or more if a very large poultice is required ; shred them 
 very small, and boil them in water; when tender, crumble in 
 bread enough for the poultice. 
 
 Vinegar and oatmeal poultice for a sprain need not be boiled, 
 only mixed smoothly together. It should be large. 
 
 Poultice for a bad Breast. 
 
 If, after a lying-in, any stoppage of the milk occurs with in¬ 
 flammation, hardness, and pain, which there is reason to believe 
 cannot be removed without suppuration (or drawing to a head 
 and breaking), it must be promoted by poultices; either a bread 
 and water poultice applied warm, or, if that be not sufficiently 
 drawing, a linseed poultice is generally recommended. Some 
 people prefer a fig, or onion poultice; or the following one 
 made of common herbs, which has this advantage, that if it be 
 not absolutely necessary to bring it to a head, this poultice 
 will assist it in dispersing. Get the inner rind of elder, and 
 of the female or blossoming elm; mallow, groundsel, plantain, 
 and houseleek (or silgreen), of each a handful; have ready a 
 saucepan with about a quart of boiling water, put them in, 
 make it boil up quickly, and boil till the herbs are tender, just 
 as you would greens; then strain it off, save the liquor, chop 
 up the herbs fine; the elder and elm rind, except just in the 
 spring of the year, will be too harsh to chop up, but all the 
 others will easily: take a part of the liquor, and boil a large 
 piece of crumb of bread till quite swollen and tender; stir in 
 a part of the herbs, and a scrap of raw fat bacon, and apply 
 this poultice warm to the breast. The quantity of herbs and 
 liquor will serve three or four times. 
 
 Fomentations 
 
 May be made by boiling the herbs directed, strain¬ 
 ing them off, and wringing out flannels or cloths in the 
 liquor in which they were boiled, and applying them hot to 
 the part in pain. For example: take two ounces of white 
 poppv heads, and two ounces of camomile flowers—or fever- 
 
OIL AND OINTMENT FOR BRUISES 793 
 
 few—or wormwood tops—or one ounce of elder flowers* 
 boil them in three pints of water till reduced to a quart. 
 This is a good application for any violent pain; great ecu 
 must be taken to avoid cold. 
 
 Ihe same end may be answered, by filling two flannel 
 bags with the herbs; have a saucepan of boiling water on the 
 hob; wring out one bag and apply; leave the other in; when 
 the first bag begins to chill, change them, and so go on till 
 the pain is relieved; then have ready a piece of dry flannel., 
 which apply instead, to prevent cold being taken. 
 
 Oil and Ointment for Bruises. 
 
 Take of camomile flowers, lavender, and southernwood 
 tops, of each three handfuls. wormwood, red sage, and rose¬ 
 mary tops, of each two handfuls ; red rose-buds, one handful, 
 shred all very fine. Put the ingredients in a new stone 
 pipkin, with a quart of best salad oil. Let them stand two 
 months or more, stirring them often. Then boil it up in the 
 same vessel. Let it boil a quarter of an hour, then add a 
 quarter of a pint of the best French brandy. Boil it up 
 again, strain it off through a sieve, and it will be fit for use. 
 The ointment is to be made by adding some lard to the in¬ 
 gredients after the oil is strained off. Let it simmer about 
 ten minutes, then strain clear into gallipots. 
 
 To prepare colewort (or young cabbage plant ) leaves , for 
 dressing a blister. — Choose fine, young, quick grown leaves; 
 with a small knife draw off the strings from the backs; roll 
 them two or three times with the rolling pin till quite smooth; 
 then hold them, one by one, before the fire till the steam 
 draws out, and the leaf looks moist, and of a bright green all 
 over; as you do each leaf, shut it up close in your left hand, 
 and so go on till you have done them all; keep them still in 
 your left hand while you remove the blister, then spread them 
 over the part; take care that every part of the sore be cover 
 ed ; then spread a fine linen rag, and as long as the blister 
 discharges freely, put a soft thick napkin also. Let this 
 dressing be renewed twice a day till the place is quite healed, 
 and no ointment whatever applied. If the skin should 
 become stiff and harsh, a little salad oil may be applied with n 
 feather or rubbed gently in with the tip of the finger. 
 
 ;> I 
 
T94 
 
 DRAUGHT. 
 
 Ii 5 bister (or any other case in which a dressing of cole- 
 wort leaves is ordered) should appear inflamed, the leaves of 
 the well-known herb plantain (the seeds of which are got for 
 Canary and other birds) may be prepared and applied in the 
 same manner. 
 
 Eye Waters. 
 
 Th ose who have any weakness or complaint in the eyes 
 should carefully avoid tampering with them, and either taking 
 to glasses, or using medicinal washes at the recommendation 
 of ignorant people. The following may be used without 
 injury, and may in some slight cases afford relief; but no 
 great benefit is to be expected from them. Breast milk fre¬ 
 quently milked into the eye from the nipple; rose-water, or 
 elder flower water; weak green tea, or camomile tea, or rose¬ 
 mary tea. 
 
 Embrocation .— For a Sore Throat. 
 
 Olive oil one ounce, spirits of hartshorn half an ounce, or 
 if the skin will bear it, equal parts of each. 
 
 Embrocation.—For the Hooping Cough. 
 
 Oil of amber and spirits of hartshorn, of each half an 
 ounce; volatile sal ammoniac five grains. This is very power¬ 
 ful, and for very young children, the sal ammoniac should be 
 left out, and the spirits of hartshorn lessened, or indeed the 
 oil of amber used alone; as much however of the spirits should 
 be used as can be borne without blistering the skin. The 
 same may be used for children in convulsions. 
 
 Strengthening Mixture. 
 
 Peruvian bark, grossly powdered, one ounce ; water, a pint 
 and a half; simmer them together a few minutes, then strain 
 off, and add tincture of bark, two ounces; diluted nitric acid, 
 one drachm and a half (or ninety drops). The dose is a 
 wine-glassful three times a day. 
 
 Draught. 
 
 For a person whose strength is exhausted by frequent 
 bleeding at the nose.—In a spoonful of mucilage of gum- 
 arabic (see p. 611 .) mix ten drops of rectified spirit of turpen¬ 
 tine; then add of simple mint water, an ounce and a half. 
 This draught should be repeated every sixth hour till the 
 return of hemorrhage appears to be effectually prevented. 
 
FOR THE HOT BLACK BALSAM. 
 
 795 
 
 Anodyne Balsam , or Soap Liniment. 
 
 Fo an ounce of which is added half an ounce of laudanum. 
 In violent pains occasioned by teething, this may be rubbed 
 on the back bone; or for violent tooth ache, or face ache, a 
 piece of flannel wet with this may be applied to the cheek, 
 or a little of it held on in the palm of the hand. 
 
 Remedy for the Bing-worm. 
 
 Fine starch reduced to powder, and kept constantly ap¬ 
 plied on and around the parts affected with the ring-worm, 
 will soon cure that teazing and infectious cuticular distemper. 
 
 On the head the ring-worm sometimes comes to running 
 sores, which must once or twice a day be washed with soap 
 and water, and dressed with basilicon ointment, keeping the 
 rest of the head dry and constantly covered with powdered 
 starch. The body must be kept gently open with sulphur 
 and cream of tartar. 
 
 Cure for Corns. 
 
 Place the feet for half an hour, two or three nights suc¬ 
 cessively, in a pretty strong solution of soda or lees of potash. 
 The alkali dissolves the indurated cuticle, and the corn falls 
 out spontaneously, leaving a small excavation which soon 
 fills up. 
 
 Another.—Bind a common muscle to the part affected, al¬ 
 lowing it to remain on all night. The best mode of applying 
 ic is to take off one half of the shell, leaving the other to keep 
 together the moisture and strength of the muscle. 
 
 Sir Astley Cooper's Chilblain Liniment. 
 
 Spirits of wine one ounce; liquor of subacete of lead, 
 half an ounce. 
 
 Sir Charles Wheeler’s Recipe for the Hot Black Balsam, 
 
 Very efficacious in cases of Scrofula.—Sold only by Strickland, Druggist, 
 High Street Coventry, at 5d a pot. 
 
 Take pot marjoram, St. John’s wort, mullen, scurvy grass, 
 ground ivy, lavender, angelica, bettony, fennel, lovage, red 
 and green sage, wormwood, rue, penny-royal, sweet marjoram, 
 hyssop, vervain, yarrow, nep, motherwort, adder’s tongue, 
 dragon, thyme, sarder’s sentorie, rosemary, bay leaves, south¬ 
 ernwood, wild sage, English tobacco, self-heal, balm, mint. 
 
796 MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES AND DIRECTIONS. 
 
 Soiomon’s seal, crosswort, feverfew, night-shade, rebgrow, 
 hound’s tongue, plantain, arsemart, broom flowers, smallage, 
 melelot, camomile, germander, golden rod, groundsel, nettles, 
 dockroot, savine, comfrey, pelewort, some stone horse dung. 
 1 ake five or six handfuls of each of the above ingredients, or 
 as many of them as you can procure, beat them in a mortar, 
 some with May butter, part with goose grease, part with 
 deer’s suet, part with boar’s grease, part with skimmings of 
 the pot, some with neatsfoot oil, and some with salad oil— 
 then put them into an earthen pot for two months at least, or 
 longer ; then boil them in a pan four hours ; then strain them, 
 and to fourscore pounds weight of the juice and fat, put six 
 pounds each of rosin, bees-wax, colophony, and black pitch, 
 two pounds of white pitch, two quarts of oil of turpentine, 
 three pounds of liquid storax, and three quarters of a pound 
 of the gum elemi. Let all these boil easily for half an hour, 
 skimming it very well, and then pot it for use. 
 
 N. B. You need not wait till you can get all the herbs 
 together, but beat them with the fat, &c. and put them into 
 die earthen pot as you can get them. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS RECIPES AND DIRECTIONS. 
 
 Tooth Paste. 
 
 One large or two small cuttle fish ; one ounce of bole armenic ; half 
 an ounce of burnt alum; half an ounce of Peruvian bark ; a quarter of 
 an ounce of cinnamon, all finely powdered and sifted through muslin ; 
 then mixed with as much honey as will make it into a soft paste. 
 
 Tooth Powder. 
 
 To one ounce ot fine powder of bark, and one ounce of gum myrrh, 
 add three fourths ot an ounce ot bole armenic ; mix these ingredients well 
 together, and they will produce an excellent tooth powder, valuable in 
 t.selt, and highly approved of by many gentlemen of the faculty. 
 
 For Chapped Hands. 
 
 Every time after washing drop on them a little honey, and rub them 
 together till the stickiness is entirely removed. The same mav be applied 
 to sore lips. J 
 
 To make Lip Sal e. 
 Take an ounce of white wax and 
 
 ox marrow, three ounces of white 
 
 ^ tJiununj lilt CC UUIILCO UI W 11110 
 
 ai !‘ m(i) ' all <n a bath heat j add a drachm of alkanct, and stir 
 u fill it acquire a 1 eddish colour. ’ 
 
ESSENCE OF SOAP FOR SHAVING, &C. 
 
 797 
 
 To make the celebrated Pomade Divine. 
 
 Beef marrow twelve ounces, steeped in water ten days, and after¬ 
 wards in rose-water twenty-four hours ; flowers of benjamin, pounded 
 storax, and Florentine orris, of each half an ounce ; cinnamon, a quarter 
 of an ounce; and clove and nutmeg, a quarter of an ounce. The whole 
 to be put in an earthen vessel, closely covered down, to keep in the 
 fumes, and being suspended in water made to boil three hours; after 
 which, the whole is to be strained and put into bottles. 
 
 Pomade Divine. 
 
 Take of beef marrow, one pound and a half, well cleaned from the 
 bones and skin: put it into an earthen vessel with spring water, which 
 must be changed twice a day for ten days; drain it well, and let it lie 
 twenty-four hours in a pint of rose-water : then dry it in a clean cloth, 
 add storax, benjamin, cypress and orris root, in fine powder, of each one 
 ounce ; cloves and nutmegs, two drachms ; and half an ounce of cinna¬ 
 mon ; carefully mix them with the marrow. Put the mass into a silver 
 cup with a cover, tie it close down with a fine cloth, and immediately 
 over it lay on a paste made with the white of eggs and flour, and upon 
 that another piece of cloth. The cup must be suspended in a copper ot 
 boiling water for three hours ; afterwards pass the liquor through muslin 
 into the cups you intend to keep it in, and tie it down the next day. 
 During the preparation, it should not be touched but with a silver spoon. 
 
 To make soft Pomatum. 
 
 Take what quantity of hog’s lard you choose to make ; cut it down in 
 small pieces, and cover it with clear spring water, changing it every 
 twenty-four hours for eight days; when it is quite white, put it into a 
 pan, and melt it over a clear fire ; when it is all melted, strain it, and 
 put to it some essence of lemon to perfume it; so keep it for use. 
 
 To make hard Pomatum. 
 
 For hard pomatum, blanch the hog’s lard in the same manner, as also 
 some mutton suet, and boil them together with a little white wax ; scent 
 it with essence of lemon or lavender, then make round paper cases, and 
 when cold turn down the other end, and keep it for use. 
 
 Genuine Windsor Soap. 
 
 Yo make this famous soap for washing the hands, shaving, &c. nothing 
 more is necessary than to slice the best white soap as thin as possible, 
 melt it in a stew-pan over a slow fire, scent it well with oil of caraway, 
 and then pour it into a frame or mould made for that purpose, or a small 
 drawer, adapted in size and form to the quantity. When it has stood 
 three or four days in a dry situation, cut into square pieces, and it is 
 ready for use. By this simple mode, substituting any more favouiite 
 scent for that of caraway, all persons may suit themselves with a good 
 perfumed soap at the most trifling expense. Shaving boxes may be at 
 once filled with the melted soap, instead of a mould. 
 
 To make Jessamine Butter, or Pomatum. 
 
 Hog’s lard melted, and well washed in clear water, laid an inch thick in 
 a dish, and strewed over with jessamine flowers, will imbibe the scent, 
 and make a very fragrant pomatum. 
 
 Essence of Soap for Shaving or Washing Hands. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of fine white soap in thin slices, and add 
 thereto two ounces of salt of tartar ; mix them well together, and put 
 this mixture into one quart of spirits of wine, in a bottle which will loud 
 double the quantity of the ingredients; tie a bladder over the mouth of 
 the bottle, and prick a pin through the bladder; set’t to digest in ft 
 
798 
 
 WASHES AND PERFUMES. 
 
 gentle heat, and shake the contents from time to time, taking care to 
 take out the pin at such times to allow passase for the air from within; 
 when the soap is dissolved, filter the liquor through paper, to free it from 
 impurities; then scent it with a little hergamot or essence of lemon, 
 (t will have the appearance of fine oil, and a small quantity will lather 
 with water like soap, and is much superior in use for washing or 
 shaving. 
 
 Method, of extracting Essences from Flowers. 
 
 Procure a quantity of the petals of any flowers which have an agree¬ 
 able fragrance; card thin layers of cotton, which dip into the finest 
 Florence or Lucca oil; sprinkle a small quantity of fine salt on the 
 flowers, and lay them, a layer of cotton, and a layer of flowers, until an 
 earthen vessel or a wide-mouthed glass bottle is full, 'lie the top close 
 with a bladder, then lay the vessel in a south aspect to the heat of the 
 sun, and in fifteen days, when uncovered, a fragrant oil may be squeezed 
 away from the whole mass, little inferior (if that flower is made use of; 
 to the dear and highly valued otto or odour of roses. 
 
 To make Washballs. 
 
 Shave thin two pounds of new white soap into about a tea-cupful of 
 rose-water; then pour as much boiling water on as will soften it. Put 
 iuto a brass pan a pint of sweet oil, four penny-worth of oil of almonds, 
 half a pound of spermaceti, and set all over the fire till dissolved; then 
 add the soap, and half an ounce of camphor that has first been reduced 
 to powder by rubbing it in a mortar with a few drops of spirits of wine, 
 or lavender-water, or any other scent. Boil ten minutes; then paur it 
 into a basin, and stir till it is quite thick enough to roll up into hard balls, 
 which must then be done as soon as possible. If essence is used, stir it 
 in quick after it is taken off the fire, that the flavour may not fly off. 
 
 To make Milk of Roses. 
 
 To one pint of rose water, add one ounce of oil of almonds, and ten 
 drops of the oil of tartar. 
 
 N. B. Let the oil of tartar be poured in last. 
 
 Another way. — Two ounces of rose-water, a tea-spoonful of oil of sweet 
 almonds, and twelve drops of oil of tartar must be put into a bottle, and 
 the bottle well shaken till the whole combines. 
 
 Wash for the Skin. 
 
 Four ounces of potash, four ounces of rose-water, two ounces of pure 
 brandy, and two ounces of lemon juice ; put all these into two quarts of 
 water, and when you wash, put a table-spoonful or two of the mixture 
 into the basin of water you intend washing in. 
 
 To increase the Growth of Hair. 
 
 Hartshorn beat small, and mixed with oil, being rubbed upon the 
 head of persons who have lost their hair, will cause it to grow again as at 
 first. 
 
 To promote the Growth of Hair. 
 
 Mix equal parts of olive oil and spirits of rosemary, and add a few 
 drops of oil of nutmeg. If the hair be rubbed every night with a little of 
 this liniment, and the proportion be very gradually augmented, it will 
 answer every purpose of increasing the growth of hair, much more ef¬ 
 fectually than can be attained by any of the boasting empirical prepa¬ 
 rations which are imposed on the credulous purchaser. 
 
 To make Eau de Luce. 
 
 Take of spirits of wine one ounce, spirit of sal-ammoniacum four ounces, 
 oil of amber one scruple, white Castile soap ten grains. Digest the soap 
 and oil in the spirits of w nc, add the ammoniacum, and shrke them well 
 together. 
 
FOR DESTROYING VERMIN, & C 
 
 790 
 
 To make Hungary Water. 
 
 Take a quantity of the flowers of rosemary, put them into a glass retort, 
 and pour in as much spirits of wine as the flowers can imbibe; dilute the 
 retort well, and let the flowers macerate for six days, then distil it in a 
 sand heat. 
 
 Pot Pourri. 
 
 Put into a large China jar the following ingredients in layers, with 
 bay-salt strewed between the layers; two pecks of damask roses, part 
 in buds and part blown; violets, orange-flowers, and jasmine, a handful 
 of each ; orris root sliced, benjamin and storax, two ounces of each ; a 
 quarter of an ounce of musk; a quarter of a pound of angeiica-roof 
 sliced; a quart of the red parts of clove-gilliflowers; two handfuls of 
 lavender flowers ; half a handful of rosemary flowers; bay and laurel 
 leaves, half a handful of each; three Seville oranges, stuck as full of" 
 cloves as possible, dried in a cool oven, and pounded; half a handful of 
 knotted marjoram ; and two handfuls of balm of Gilead dried. Cover¬ 
 all quite close. When the pot is uncovered, the perfume is very fine. 
 
 A quicker sort of Sweet Pot. 
 
 Take three handfuls of orange-flowers, three of clove-gillyflowers, 
 three of damask roses, one of knotted marjoram, one of lemon-thyme, 
 six bay-leaves, a handful of rosemary, one of myrtle, half one of mint, 
 one of lavender, the rind of a lemon, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves. 
 Cho[J all; and put them in layers, with pounded hay-salt between, up to 
 the top of the jar. If all the ingredients cannot be got at once, put them 
 in as you get them; always throwing in salt with every new article. 
 
 TO DESTROY VERMIN OF DIFFERENT KINDS. 
 
 To destroy Beetles. 
 
 Take some small lumps of unslaked lime, and put into the chinks or 
 holes from which they issue, it will effectually destroy them ; or it may 
 be scattered on the ground, if they are more numerous than in their 
 holes. 
 
 . Another way.—The simplest and most effectual way of destroying 
 beetles is by means of red wafers. As it has become usual to substitute 
 vermilion for red lead in the composition of wafers, it will be necessary 
 to ask particularly for such as have been made with red lead. Strew 
 these in the neighbourhood of the crevices from which these insects issue, 
 and their future incursions will be speedily prevented. Cock roaches 
 may be destroyed by the same means. 
 
 For destroying Bugs and Worms in Wood. 
 
 An eminent physician has discovered that by rubbing wood with a 
 solution of vitriol, insects and bugs are prevented from harbouring there¬ 
 in. M hen the strength of this remedy is required to be increased, there 
 need only be boiled some coloquintida apples in water in which ' after¬ 
 wards, vitriol is dissolved, and the bedstead with the wood about them 
 and the wainscotting, being anointed with the liquor, will be ever aftei 
 clear of worms or bugs. The wall may be likewise rubbed with the 
 composition, and some of it may be dropped into the holes where these 
 insects are suspected to be harboured. As to the walls, they renuii* 
 only to be washed over with the vitriol water. J 1 
 
800 
 
 FOR DESTROYING VERMIN, &C. 
 
 To destroy Crickets. 
 
 Mix some roasted apples with a little white arsenic powdered, and nut 
 a little of this mixture into the holes or cracks in which the crickets are; 
 they will eat it and perish. 
 
 To destroy the Insect which attacks the Apple Tree, commonly called the 
 White Blight, or American Blight. 
 
 To a strong decoction of the digitalis or foxglove add a sufficient quan¬ 
 tity of fresh cow-dung to give it such a consistence as may enable you to 
 apply it with a painters’ brush to those parts of the bark of the tree 
 which afford a harbour for this destructive insect. The insect is gene¬ 
 rally destroyed by the first application, though in some instances it may 
 be necessary to repeat it. It has been remarked that the insect never 
 returns in future years to those parts of the tree which have been thus 
 treated. 
 
 To destroy Earwigs and Wood lice. 
 
 A very simple way of ensnaring them, and by which they may be taken 
 alive in great quantities, is to place four inch cuts of reeds, bean halm, 
 or strong wheat straw, among the branches, and also lay a number on 
 the ground, at the bottom of the wall. In these the insects take refuge 
 at day-break, as they depredate chiefly in the night; and any time 
 through the day they may be blown into a bottle with a little water in it, 
 and so be drowned. Or, a cheaper way is to burn the straw, and scatter 
 fresh on the ground. 
 
 • 
 
 The Use of Garlic against Moles, Grubs, and Snails. 
 
 Moles are such enemies to the smell of garlic, that, in order to get ridr 
 of these troublesome and destructive guests, it is sufficient to introduce 
 a few heads of garlic into their subterraneous walks. It is likewise em¬ 
 ployed with success against grubs and snails. 
 
 To prevent Slugs fro*n getting tnto Fruit Trees. 
 
 If the trees are standards, tie a coarse horsehair rope about them, 
 two or three feet from the ground. If they are against the wall, nail a 
 narrow slip of coarse horsehair cloth there, about half a foot from 
 the ground, and they will never get over it, for if they attempt it. 
 It will kill them, as their bellies are soft, and the horsehair will wound 
 them. 
 
 To destroy Wasps and Flies instantly. 
 
 Wasps and flies may be killed very fast, by dipping a feather in a lit¬ 
 tle sweet oil, and touching their backs with it; they will instantly die. 
 When intent on the fruit, and half-buried in the excavations they have 
 made, they are easily come at, and are not apt to fly about. Insects of 
 different kinds are easily killed by oil ; it closes up the lateral pores by 
 which they breathe. 
 
 To destroy Rats or Mice. 
 
 Mix flour of malt with some butter ; add thereto a drop or two of oil 
 of aniseed; make it up into balls, and bait your traps therewith. If 
 you have thousands, by this means you may take them all. 
 
 Another way. —Equal parts of oil of amber and ox gall; oatmeal suffi¬ 
 cient to make a stiff paste ; roll it up in balls and lay abou t. Place nor 
 the balls flat pans with water. The rats eat this mixture greedily, and 
 then drink till they die. 
 
 To destroy Bugs. 
 
 Take of the highest rectified spirits of wine (viz. lamp spirits), that wiH 
 burn awmy dry, and leave not the least moisture behind, half a pint 
 new distilled oil, or spirits, of turpentine, half a pint; mix them toge 
 ther, and break into it, in small bits, half an ounce of camphor; whlcfc 
 
TO PRESERVE MEAT, SiC. 
 
 80 i 
 
 mil dissolve in a few minutes ; shake them well together, and will, a 
 sponge, or a brush, dipt in some ot it, wet very well the bed or furniture 
 ,rr n h - e r r,mn harbour and breed, and it will infallibly kill and 
 destiny both them and their nits, although they swarm ever a: much. 
 Kilt then the bed or furniture must be well and thoroughly wet with it 
 
 it •l'i P0U * iem b M ing first brushed and shook off), by whirl, means 
 
 1 he, T am ’ SOli '» no , r in thc least h «J t the finest silk or damask 
 bed that is. The quantity here ordered of this curious neat white mix¬ 
 ture, which costs about a shilling, will rid any one bed whatever, tlion<rii 
 it swaims with bugs. Do but touch a live bug with a drop of and 
 3 oh will find it die immediately ; if any should happen to appear alter 
 once using, it will only be tor want of well wetting the lacing, .x c . of the 
 bed, or the foldings ot the linings or curtains, near the rings, or the joints 
 oi hides ,n and about the bedstead, or head-board, wherein the bugs or nits 
 nestle and bleed, and then their being well wet altogether again, with 
 nore of the same mixture, which dries in as fast as you use it, pouring- 
 some o it into the joints or holes where the. sponge or brush cannot 
 reach, w, l never fail absolutely to destroy the,,/all.” Some beds, that 
 ave much wood-work, can hardly be thoroughly cleaned without beiim 
 first taken dow n ; but others that can be drawn out, or that vou can «ct 
 well behind to be done as it should be, may. v 
 
 Note.—The smell this mixture occasions will be gone in tw o or three 
 lays, which is yet very wholesome, and to many people agreeable. You 
 must remember always to shake the liquor together very well whenever 
 you use it, which must be in the daytime, not bv candlelight, lest the 
 subtlety ol the mixture should catch the flame as you are usiim it a, 
 occasion damage. ° 
 
 Easy Method of preserving Animal Food sweet f r several Days in the 
 
 Height of Summer. 
 
 Veal, mutton, beef, or venison may be kept for nine or ten days per¬ 
 fectly sweet and good, in the heat of summer, by lightly covering the 
 same with bran, and hanging it in a high and windy loom; the re foie a 
 cupboard full of smalt holes, or a wire safe, so as the wind may have a 
 passage through, is recommended to be placed in such a room, to keep 
 away the flies. 
 
 To preserve Meat by Treacle. 
 
 This experiment has been successfully tried in the following niannei . 
 A gentleman put a piece of beef into treacle, and turned it often. At 
 the en of a month he ordered it to be washed and boiled, and ha 1 the 
 pleasur to find it quite good, and more pleasant than the same piece 
 would have been in salt for that time. But the expense of this method 
 must confine it to the opulent. 
 
 To clean Marble. 
 
 Take a bnllack’s gall, a gill of soap lees, half a gill of turpentine, ami 
 make it into a paste with pipe-clay; then apply it to the marble ami 
 let it dry a day or tw o : then rub it off; and, if not clean, apply it a second 
 or third time ntil it is clean. 
 
 5 K 
 
802 
 
 TO PRESERVE POTATOES FROM FROST 
 
 To clean Alabaster or Marble. 
 
 Beat pumice stoues to an impalpable powder, and mix it up with ver- 
 mice ; let it stand for two hours, then dip into it a sponge, and rub 
 the marble or alabaster, wash it with a linen cloth and fresh water, and 
 dry it with clean linen rags. 
 
 To paint a Fender Green. 
 
 Quarter of a pound of varnish green; to do the bottom a quarter of a 
 pound of black paint with a little varnish in it; a sixpenny sash tool 
 Do the green first, then wash it in turpentine; then do the black, wash 
 it again in turpentine, and hang it up for future use. 
 
 To take Mildew out of Linen. 
 
 Take soap, and rub it well; then scrape some fine chalk, and rub that 
 also in the linen; lay it on the grass; as it dries wet it a little, and it 
 will come out at twice doing. 
 
 To prevent the Freezing of Water in Pipes in the Winter Time. 
 
 By tying up the ball-cock, during the frost, the freezing of pipes will 
 often be prevented ; in fact, it will always be prevented where the main 
 pipe is higher than the cistern or other reservoir, and the pipe is laid in 
 a regular inclination from one to the other, for then no water can remain 
 in the pipe; or if the main is lower than the cistern, and the pipe regu¬ 
 larly inclines, upon the supply’s ceasing, the pipe will immediately ex¬ 
 haust itself into the main. Where water is in the pipes, if each cock is 
 left a little drip-ping, this circulation of the water will frequently prevent 
 the pipes from being frozen. 
 
 Easy Method of purifying Water. 
 
 Take a common garden pot, in the midst of which place a piece of 
 wicker work ; on this spread a layer of charcoal of four or five inches in 
 thickness, and above the charcoal a quantity of sand. The surface of 
 the sand is to be covered with paper pierced full of holes, to prevent the 
 water from making channels in it. This filter is to be renewed occa¬ 
 sionally. By this process, which is at once simple and economical, every 
 person is enabled to procure pure limpid water at a very trifling expense. 
 
 Method of preserving Grapes. 
 
 Take a cask or barrel, inaccessible to the external air, and put into it 
 a layer of bran, dried in an oven, or of ashes well dried and silted. 
 Upon this, place a layer of grapes well cleaned, and gathered in the after¬ 
 noon of a dry day, before they are perfectly ripe. Proceed thus with 
 alternate layers of bran and grapes, till the barrel is full, taking care that 
 the grapes do not touch each other, and to let the last layer be of bran ; 
 then close the barrel, so that the air may not be able to penetrate, w'hich 
 is an essential point. Grapes, thus packed, will keep nine or even twelve 
 months. To restore them to their freshness, cut the end of the stalk of 
 each bunch of grapes, and put that of white grapes into w hite wine, and 
 that of the black grapes into red wine, as you would put flowers into 
 water, to revive or keep them fresh. 
 
 To preserve Potatoes from the Frost. 
 
 If you have not a convenient store-place for them, dig a trench three 
 or four feet deep, into which they are to be laid as they are taken up, 
 and then covered with the earth taken out of the trench, raised up in the 
 middle like the roof of a house, and covered with straw, to carry ofi’ the 
 rain. They will be thus preserved from the frost, and can be taken up 
 as they are wanted. 
 
TO REMOVE STAINS, &C, 
 
 803 
 
 To preserve Hazel Nuts in great Perfection for many Months. 
 
 Hazel nuts may be kept a long time in full kernel by burying them in 
 earthen pots, well closed, a foot or two in the ground, 'they keep best 
 in gravelly or sandy places. 
 
 Plate Powder. * 
 
 Ji> most of the articles sold as plate powders, under a variety of names, 
 there is an injurious mixture of quicksilver, winch is said sometimes so 
 far to penetrate and render silver brittle, that it will even break with a 
 fall. Whitening, properly purified from sand, applied wet, and rubbed 
 till dry, is one of the easiest, safest, and certainly the cheapest of all plate 
 powders : jewellers and silversmiths, for small articles, seldom use any 
 thing else. If, however, the plate be boiled a little in water, with an 
 ounce of calcined hartshorn in powder to about three pints of water, 
 then diained over the vessel in which it was boiled, and afterwards 
 dried by the fire, while some soft linen rags are boiled in the liquid, 
 til! they have wholly imbibed it, these rags will, when dry, not only assist 
 to clean the plate, which must afterwards be rubbed bright with leather, 
 but also serve admirably for cleaning brass locks, finger-plates, &c. 
 
 Another way.— Eight ounces of whitening dried and sifted ; one ounce 
 of killed quicksilver. Beal them together in a mortar with a sufficient 
 quantity of spirit of wine to bring them to a consistency. The powder to 
 be rubbed well on with the hand and cleaned oft’ with a soft wash 
 leather. 
 
 To make Portable Balls for removing Spots from Clothes in general. 
 
 Take fuller s-earth perfectly dried, so that it crumbles into powder, 
 moisten it with the clear juice of lemons, and add a small quantity of pure 
 pearlashes ; then work and knead the whole carefully together, till it 
 acquires the consistency of a thick elastic paste ; form it into convenient 
 small balks, and expose them to the heat of the sun, in which they ought 
 to be completely diied. In this state they are fit for use in the manner 
 following:—First, moisten the spot on your clothes with water, then rub 
 it with the ball just described, and suffer it again to dry in the sun ; after 
 having washed the spot with pure water, it will entirely disappear. 
 
 The Fumes of Brimstone useful in removing Spots orStains in Linen, fyc. 
 
 If a red rose be held in the fumes of a brimstone-match, the colour 
 will soon begin to change, and, at length, the flower will become white. 
 By the same process, fruit-stains or iron-moulds may be removed from 
 linen or cotton cloths, if the spots be previously moi'toned with water. 
 With iron-moulds, weak muriatic acid is preferable, assisted by heat; as 
 by laying the cloth on a tea-pot or kettle, filled with boiling water. 
 
 To remove Spots of Grease from Paper. 
 
 Take an equal quantity of roch alum, burnt, and flour of brimstone, 
 finely powdered together ; wet the paper a little, and put a small quan¬ 
 tity of the powder on the place, rubbing it gently with your finger, and 
 the spot will disappear. 
 
 Substitute for Salt of Sorrel, for removing Ink Spots and Iron-moulds. 
 
 Take six parts of crystals of tartar, in powder, three parts of alum, 
 likewise pulverized, and use them in the same manner as salt of sorrel. 
 
 Expeditious Method of taking out Stains from Scarlet, or Velvet </ any other 
 
 Colour- 
 
 Take soap wort, bruise it, strain out its juices, ar.d add to it a small 
 quantity of black soap. Wash the stain with this liquor, suffering it to 
 
804 TO DISCHARGE GREASE, &C. 
 
 dry between whiles, and by this method the spots will in a day or two 
 entirely disappear. 
 
 To take Spots effectually out of Silk, Linen, or Woollen. 
 
 Spirits of turpentine, twelve drops, and the same quantity of spirits 
 of wine; grind these with an ounce of pipe-maker’s clay, and rub the 
 spots therewith. You are to wet the composition when you do eithei 
 silk, linen, or woollen with it; let it remain till dry, then rub it oft, 
 and the spot or spots will disappear. True spirits of salts, diluted with 
 water, will remove iron-moulds from linen ; and sal-ammoniac, with lime, 
 will take out the stains of w ine. 
 
 To take the Stains of Grease from Woollen or Silk. 
 
 Three ounces of spirits of wine, three ounces of French chalk, pow.’ 
 dered, and five ounces of pipe-clay. Mix the above ingredients, and 
 make them up in rolls about the length of a finger, and you will find a 
 never-failing remedy for removing grease from woollen or silken goods. 
 
 N. B.—It is to be applied by rubbing on the spot either dry or wet, 
 and afterwards brushing the place. 
 
 Easy and safe Method of discharging Grease Spots from Woollen Cloths. 
 
 Fullers’ earth, or tobacco pipe-clay, being put wet on an oil spot, ab¬ 
 sorbs the oil as the water evaporates, and leaves the vegetable or animal 
 fibres of cloth clean, on being beaten or brushed out. When the spot is 
 occasioned by tallow or wax, it is necessary to heat the part cautiously 
 by an iron or the fire, while the cloth is drying. In some kinds o*f 
 goods, blotting paper, bran, or raw starch, may be used with advan¬ 
 tage. 
 
 To take out Spots of Ink. 
 
 As soon as the accident happens, wet the place with juice of sorrel or 
 lemon, or with vinegar, and tire best hard white soap. 
 
 To take Iron-moulds out of Linen. 
 
 Hold the iron mould on the cover of a tankard of boiling water, and 
 rub on the spot a little juice of sorrel and a little salt, and when the 
 cloth has thoroughly imbibed the juice, wash it in lees. 
 
 To take out Spots on Silk. 
 
 Rub the spots with spirit of turpentine; this spirit exhaling, carries 
 off with it the oil that causes the spot. 
 
 To take Wax out of Velvet of all Colours except Crimson. 
 
 Take a crummy wheaten loaf, cut it in two, toast it before the fire, and 
 while very hot, apply it to the part spotted with wax. Then apply an¬ 
 other piece of toasted bread hot as before, and continue this appli¬ 
 cation till the wax is entirely taken out. 
 
 To extract Grease Spots from Paper. 
 
 Scrape finely some pipe-clav, the quantity of which maybe easily and 
 termined on making the experiment; lay thereon the sheet or leaf, and 
 cover the spot in like manner with the clay; cover the whole with a sheet 
 of paper ; then apply, for a few seconds, a heated ironing box, or any 
 substitute adopted by laundresses. On using Indian rubber to remove 
 the dust taken up by the grease, the paper will he found restored to 
 its original degree of whiteness and opacity. 
 
 To discharge Grease from Leather. 
 
 Apply the white of an egg to the spot, and dry it in the sun • w 
 
INK, TOHNCE, &C. 
 
 80.' 
 
 mix two table-spoonfuls of spirits of turpentine, half an ounce of mealy 
 potatoes, and some of the best Durham mustard. Apply this mixture to 
 the spot, and rub it off when dry ; a little vinegar added renders it more 
 efficacious. 
 
 Camp Vinegar. 
 
 Take a large head of garlic peeled and cut in slices, half an ounce of 
 cayenne pepper, two spoonfuls of India soy, two spoonfuls of walnut 
 pickle, four or five anchovies sliced small ; put these into a pint of vine¬ 
 gar with fifteen grains of cochineal, shake it every day for at least a fort¬ 
 night (it shaken daily for six weeks P is much better), pour it off clear 
 into bottles for use. It will keep for y 
 
 To make exeunt 
 
 Take a pound of the best Aleppo galls, half a pound of copperas, a 
 cjuarter of a pound of gum-arabic, and a quarter of a pound of white 
 sugar-candy. Bruise the galls, and beat the other ingredients fine ; and 
 infuse them all in three quarts of wine or rain water. Let this mixture 
 stand hot by the fire three or four days ; and then put it on a slow fire 
 so as to boil. Stir it frequently, and let it stand five or six hours, till 
 one quarter of it be evaporated. When cold, strain it through a clean 
 coarse piece of linen ; bottle, and keep it for use. 
 
 To make Ink. 
 
 One ounce of bruised galls, half an ounce of copperas, a quarter of an 
 ounce of gum-arabic, and one pint of water. Shake it frequently for a 
 week. 
 
 Red Ink. 
 
 Take a quarter of a pound of the best Brazil w T ood (get it in the log 
 if possible, and rasp or shave it yourself), one ounce of cream of tartar, 
 and one ounce of alum; boil these ingredients in a quart of Clearwater 
 till halt is consumed, then add to the ink, when filtered hot, one ounce 
 of gum-arabic and one ounce of fine sugar. A little salt added will 
 prevent it from becoming mouldy. 
 
 To make Indian Ink. 
 
 Put six lighted wicks into a dish of oil; hang an iron or tin concave 
 cover over it so as to receive all the smoke; when there is a sufficient 
 quantity of soot settled to the cover, then take it off gently with a feather 
 upon a sheet of paper, and mix it up with gum tragacanth to a proper 
 consistence. r 
 
 N. B. 
 ink. 
 
 The clearest oil makes the finest soot, consequently the best 
 
 To revive old Writings which are almost defaced. 
 
 Boil gall nuts in wine; then steep a sponge into the liquor, and pass 
 it on the lines ot the old writing: bv this method the letters which were 
 almost undecypheruble w ill appear as fresh as if newly done. 
 
 To make Pounce. 
 
 Gum-sandarac, powdered and sifted very fine, will produce an ex¬ 
 cellent preventative to keep ink from sinking in the paper after you have 
 had occasion to scratch out any part of the writing. 
 
 Another way.—Cuttle-fish bone, properly dried, one ounce; bee; 
 rosm, one ounce; and the same quantity of burnt alum, well incorporated 
 together, will make ve y good pounce, equal, if not superior, to anv 
 bought at She shops. 
 
800 
 
 BLACKING uALLS, &C. 
 
 Composition that will effectually prevent Iron, Steel, fee. from rusting. 
 
 This method consists in mixing, with fat oi! varnish, four-fifths of well 
 rectified spirits of turpentine. The varnish is to be applied by means ot 
 a sponge ; and articles varnished in this manner will retain their metallic 
 brilliancy, and never contract any spots of rust. It may be applied to 
 copper, and to the preservation of philosophical instruments; which, by 
 being brought into contact with water, are liable to lose their splendour, 
 and become tarnished. 
 
 To prevent polished Hardware and Cutlery from taking Rust. 
 
 Case-knives, snuffers, watch-chains, and other small articles made of 
 steel, may be preserved from rust, by being carefully wiped after use, 
 and then wrapped in coarse brown paper, the virtue of which is such, 
 that all hardware goods from Sheffield, Birmingham, &c. are always 
 wrapped in the same. 
 
 To clear Iron from Rust. 
 
 Pound some glass to fine powder, and having nailed some strong linen 
 or woollen cloth upon a board, lay upon it a strong coat of gum-water, 
 and sift thereon some of your powdered glass, and let it cPy; repeat 
 this operation three times, and when the last covering of powdered glass 
 is dry, you may easily rub off the rust from iron utensils, with the cloth 
 thus prepared. 
 
 Method of extinguishing Fires in Chimnies. 
 
 Stop with a wet blanket the upper orifice of the. tunnel; but the surest 
 and readiest method is to apply the blanket either to the throat of the 
 chimney, or over the whole front of the fire-place. If there happens to 
 be a chimney board or a register, nothing can he so effectual as to apply 
 them immediately : and having by that means stopped the draught of 
 air from below, the burning soot will he put out as readily and as com¬ 
 pletely as a candle is put out by an extinguisher, which acts exactly 
 upon the same principle. 
 
 To extinguish Fi"es speedily. 
 
 Much mischief arises from want of a little presence of mind on these 
 alarming occasions: a small quantity of water, well and immediately 
 applied, will frequently obviate great danger. The moment an alarm 
 of fire is given, wet some blankets well in a bucket of water, and sprea ! 
 them upon the floor of the room where the fire is, and afterwards beat 
 out the other flames with a blanket thus wet; two or three buckets of 
 water thus used early will answer better than hundreds applied at a 
 later period. Linen thus wet will be useful, but will not answer so well 
 as woollen. 
 
 To extricate Horses from Fire. 
 
 If the harness be thrown over a draught-horse, or the saddle placed on 
 the back of a saddle-horse, they may be led out of the stable as easily as on 
 common occasions. Should there be time to substitute the bridle for the 
 halter, the difficulty towards saving them will he still further diminished. 
 
 To clean Boot-tops, or any Tanned Leather. 
 
 Boil one quart of milk, let it stand till cold ; then take, one ounce of 
 oil of vitriol; one ounce of spirits of salt; shake them well together, and 
 add one ounce of red lavender. You may put half a pint of v’uegar, 
 with the white of an egg beat to a froth. 
 
 Blacking Balls for Shoes. 
 
 Mutton-suet, four ounces; bees-wax one ounce; sugar-candy, and 
 
TO CLEAN MAHOGANY FURNITURE. 
 
 80 7 
 
 gum-arabic, one draclim each, in fine powder; melt these well to»-ether 
 over a gentle fire, and add thereto about a spoonful of turpentine and 
 ivory and lamp-black sufficient to give it a good black : while hot enough 
 to run, you may make it into a ball, by pouring the liquor into a tin 
 mould; or let it stand till almost cold, you may mould it in what form 
 you please by the hand. 
 
 A celebrated Blacking Cake for Boots and Shoes 
 
 Take one part of gum tragacanth, four parts of river water, two parts 
 of neat s-foot, or some other softening, lubricating oil, two parts of super- 
 tine ivory-black, one par' - of Prussian blue in fine powder, or ind'o-o 
 tour parts of brown sugar candy; boil the mixture; and when the com¬ 
 position is of a proper consistency, let it be formed into cakes of such a 
 size tnat each cake may make a pint of liquid blacking. 
 
 Blacking. 
 
 One quart of vinegar, two ounces of oil of vitriol, four ounces of ivorv- 
 b ack. halt a pound of eoarso brown sugar, half a table-spoonful of salad 
 ml, one quart of small beer. 
 
 To make a quart cf Blacking. 
 
 Four ounces of ivory-black, four ounces of treacle, a table-spoonful of 
 speim oil, one drachm of gum-arabic powder, one drachm of green cop¬ 
 peras one ounce (m weight) of oil of vitriol, one pint and a half of sour 
 small beer. 
 
 Proper method of mixing.-Pnt the ivory-black, treacle, copperas, gum, 
 and oil, into a basin or any earthen vessel, and mix them well together 
 then pour m half the beer, then add the vitriol and keep stirring the 
 blacking as you pour it in, and then add the other half of the beer stir¬ 
 ring it till all the ingiedients are well mixed. After it has stood a few 
 hours, bottle it, and keep it well corked. 
 
 i S0U1 canuot be had, use half vinegar and water, it vrill 
 
 do as well. ’ 
 
 Recipe to make Blacking. 
 
 Four ounces of ivory-black, six ounces of treacle, one pennyworth of 
 sweet oil, one pennyworth of oil of vitriol, a pint and a half of small 
 beer. Stir the oil, treacle, and blacking well together, then add the 
 small beer; when it is all well stirred together, then add the oil of vitriol. 
 
 Preparation for cleaning Harness. 
 
 One pound of logwood, two ounces of copperas, quarter of a pound 
 0 ,lut S a 0s, half an ounce of gum-arabic, one ounce of Prussian blue 
 three quarts oi soft water. Simmer it over the fire till reduced to one 
 
 To polish Mahogany. 
 
 Put a quart of cold drawn linseed oil into a jar, set it in the chimnev 
 corner for twelve hours, and keep it afterwards in a bottle closely corked 
 1 ut this oil on the table with a linen doth, rub it well, change the cloths 
 frequently, and continue rubbing till the table is without a spot • after 
 ns process is completed, once a fortnight will he often enough to’polish 
 
 linen cl > oths. PI ° V J arC C0BSiai “ ,y ’ bl,t 8' entl >' lu »>bed with soft 
 
 To clean Mahogany Furniture. 
 
 Three pennyworth of aikanet root, one pint of cold drawn linseed oil 
 two pennyworth of rose pink; put these into a pan and let them stand 
 sll night; then take some ot this mixture, rub it omi the fables or chans, 
 
DYES AND MASON S WASHES. 
 
 808 
 
 *nd let it remain one hour; then take a linen cloth and rub it well off, 
 <md it will leave a beautiful gloss on the furniture. If the pinky shade 
 occasioned by the alkanet root and pink is disagreeable, they may be 
 omitted in part or entirely. 
 
 German Furniture Gloss, or Polishing Wax for Mahogany, fyc. 
 
 Cut in small pieces a quarter of a pound of yellow wax; and, melting 
 it in a pipkin, add an ounce of well pounded colophony, or black rosin. 
 The wax and colophony being both melted, pour in, by degrees, quite 
 warm, two ounces of oil or spirits of turpentine. When the whole is 
 thoroughly mixed, pour it into a tin or earthen pot, and keep it covered 
 for use. The method of applying it to the furniture, which must be first 
 well dusted and cleaned, is by spreading a little of this composition on a 
 piece of woollen cloth, and well rubbing the wood with it; and, in a few 
 days, the gloss will be as firm and fast as varnish. 
 
 To trash white Lace. 
 
 A quarter of a cake of white wax, six lumps of sugar, and a dessert¬ 
 spoonful of made starch, to be mixed with a quart of soft water. Tack 
 the lace very slightly in a thin cloth, dipped in coid water, then let it 
 lie in a strong lather for one day; change the water, and leave it in a 
 second lather all night. Put the above materials into a saucepan, boil 
 the lace in it for ten minutes, then throw it into cold water, and when 
 nearly dry iron it. 
 
 Nankeen Dye. 
 
 Half an ounce of annalto, one ounce of potash; scrape the former, 
 and boil both in four quarts of water till reduced to two ; then boil the 
 linen in it an hour, and afterwards rinse in two or three waters. This 
 quantity will be sufficient for a gown. Prepared in larger quantities, 
 this makes a beautiful dye for the linings of furniture. 
 
 Pink Dye. 
 
 The calico must be washed extremely clean, and be dry. Then boil 
 it in two gallons of soft water, and four ounces of alum ; take it out, and 
 dry in the air. In the mean time boil in the alum-water two handfuls of 
 wheat-bran till quite slippery, and then strain it. Take two scruples of 
 cochineal, and two ounces of argal finely pounded and sifted ; mix with 
 it the liquor by little at a time. Then put into the liquor the calico; and 
 boil till it is almost wasted, moving it about. Take out the calico, and 
 wash it in chamber-lye first, and in cold water after; then rinse it 
 in water-starch strained, and dry it quickly without hanging it in folds. 
 Mangle it very highly, unless you have it callendered, which is best. 
 
 Blue Dye. 
 
 Let the calico be washed clean and dried ; then mix some of Scot’s 
 liquid blue in as much water as will be sufficient to cover the things to 
 be dyed, and put some starch to it to give a light stiffness. Dry a bit 
 to see whether the colour is deep enough; then set the linen, <!cc. into 
 it, and wash it; then dry the articles singly, and mangle or Callender 
 them. 
 
 Mason’s Washes for Stucco. 
 
 Blue .—To four pounds of blue vitriol, and a pound of the best whiting, 
 put a gallon of water, in an iron or brass pot. Let it boil an hour, stirring 
 it all the time. Then pour it into an earthen pan ; and set it by for a day 
 or two till the colour is settled. Pour off the water, and mix the colour 
 with whitewasher’s size. Wash the wails three or four times according 
 as is necessary. 
 
TO MEND CHINA AND GLASS. 
 
 809 
 
 Yellorv. —Dissolve in soft water over the fire equal quantities separately 
 of umber, bright ochre, and blue black. Then put it into as much white 
 wash as you think sufficient for the work, some of each, and stir it all 
 together. If either cast predominates, add more of the others till you 
 have the proper tint. The most beautiful white wash is made by mixin 
 the lime and size with skimmed milk instead of water. 
 
 Easy Method of Dyeing Yellow or Green. 
 
 The plant called weld, or dyer’s weed, affords a most beautiful yellow 
 dye for cotton, woollen, mohair, silk, and linen, and is that which is most 
 commonly used by dyers for that purpose, as it gives the brightest dye. 
 Blue cloth, dipped in a decoction of it becomes green. The yellow 
 colour of the paint, called Dutch pink, is got from this plant; the tinging 
 quality resides in the stems and branches, and it is cultivated in sandy 
 soils, because rich soils are apt to lessen its value, by making the stalk 
 hollow. ' 
 
 Bookbinder’s Paste. 
 
 Mix wheaten flour first in cold water, then boil it till it be of a glutin¬ 
 ous consistence; this method makes common paste. Mix a fourth, fifth, 
 or sixth of the weight of the flour of powdered alum, and if required 
 stronger, and a little powdered resin. 
 
 To make Size. 
 
 Half an ounce of common glue, one ounce of isinglass, half a pint of 
 water ; let it boil till dissolved, then strain through a piece of muslin. 
 
 A most excellent Glue. 
 
 Beat an ounce of isinglass to shreds: dissolve it gradually in a pint 
 of brandy, by means of gentle heat, and then strain the solution through 
 a piece of fine muslin. The glue thus obtained should be kept in glass 
 closely stopped. When required for use, it should be dissolved with 
 moderate heat, when it will appear thin, transparent, and almost limpid. 
 When applied in the manner of common glue, its effect is so powerful as 
 to join together the parts of wood stronger than the wood itself is united. 
 This glue dries into a very strong, tough, and transparent substance, not 
 easily damaged by any thing but aqueous moisture, which renders it 
 unfit for any use where it would be much exposed to wet or damp air. 
 
 To make Lip Glue, for joining Paper, Silk, or thin Leather, Sfc. 
 
 Take of isinglass and parchment glues, of each one ounce ; sugar-candv 
 and gum-tragacanth. each two drachms ; add to them an ounce of water, 
 and boil the whole together till the mixture, when cold, is of the con¬ 
 sistence of glue; then form the same into small rolls, or any other figure 
 that may be most convenient, and it will be fit for use. 
 
 This glue may be wet with the tongue, and rubbed on the edges of 
 the paper, silk, or leather, that afe to be joined; and on being laid 
 together, and suffered to dry, they will be united as firmly as any other 
 part of the substance. 
 
 Excellent Cement for broken China 
 
 May be made from a mixture of equal parts of glue, white of egg, and 
 white lead. 
 
 Cement to mend broken China or Glass. 
 
 Garlic stamped in a stone mortar; the juice whereof, when applied to 
 the pieces to be joined together, is the finest and strongest cement for 
 that purpose, and will leave little or no mark if done with care. 
 
 To stop Cracks in Glass Vessels. 
 
 The cracks of glass vessels may be mended by daubing them, with a 
 
 5 L 
 
dlO 
 
 TO CLEAN PAINT, &C. 
 
 suitable piece of linen, over with white of egg, strewing both over with 
 finely powdered quick lime, and instantly applying the linen closely and 
 evenly 
 
 Cement for Wood or Paper. 
 
 Dissolve some isinglass in a small quantity of gin or proof spirit, by a 
 very gentle heat; and preserve it in a bottle for use. 
 
 Another way. — Dissolve, isinglass two parts, and gum.ars.bic, in like 
 manner with the preceding, and keep it in a bottle for use. 
 
 Chinese Method oj Mending• China. 
 
 Take a piece of flint-glass, beat it to a fine powder, and grind it well 
 with the white of an egg, and it joins china without rivetting, so that 
 no art can break it in the same place. You are to observe, that the 
 composition is to be ground extremely fine on a painter’s stone. 
 
 To clean Looking-glasses. 
 
 Remove the fly stains, and other soil, by a damp rag; then polish with 
 woollen cloth and powder blue. 
 
 To preserve Gilding and clean it. 
 
 It is not possible to prevent flies from staining the gilding without 
 covering it; before which blow off the light dust, and pass a feather or 
 clean brush over it ; then with stripes of paper cover the frames of youi 
 glasses, and do not remove it till the flies are gone. 
 
 Linen takes off the gilding, and deadens its brightness; it should 
 therefore never be used for wiping it. 
 
 Some means should be used to destroy the flies, as they injure furni¬ 
 ture of every kind, and the paper likewise. Bottles hung about with 
 sugar and vinegar, or beer, will attract them ; or fly-water put into little 
 shells placed about the room, but out of the reach of children. 
 
 To clean Paint. 
 
 Never use a cloth, but take off the dust with a little long-haired brush, 
 after blowing off the loose parts with the bellows. With care, paint 
 will look well for a length of time. When soiled, dip a sponge or a bit 
 of flannel into soda and water, wash it off quickly, and dry immediately, 
 or the strength of the soda will eat off the colour. 
 
 When wainscot requires scouring, it should be done from the top 
 downwards, and the soda be prevented from running on the unclean 
 part as much as possible, or marks will be made which will appear after 
 the whole is finished. One person should dry with old linen as fast as 
 the other has scoured off the dirt and washed the soda off. 
 
 To clean Paper Hangings. 
 
 First blow off the dust with the bellows. Divide a white loaf of 
 •fight days old into eight parts. Take the crust into your hand, and be— 
 'lining at the top of the paper, wipe it downwards in the lightest mane 
 ier with the crumb. Do not cross nor go upwards. The dirt of the 
 paper and the crumbs will fall together. Observe, you must not wipe 
 above half a yard at a stroke, and after doing all the upper part, go 
 round again, beginning a little above where you left off. If you do Ao 
 do it extremely lightly, you will make the dirt adhere to the paper. 1 
 will look like new if properly done. 
 
 To clean Floor-cloths. 
 
 Sweep, then wipe them with a flannel; and when all dust and spots 
 are removed, rub with a waxed flannel, and then with a dry plain one; 
 but use little wax, and rub only enough with the latter to give a little 
 
TO PRESERVE GERANIUMS, &C. * 811 
 
 Washing now and then with milk, after the above sweeping and dry- 
 rubbing them, give as beautiful a look, and they are less slippery. 
 
 To dust Carpets and Floors. 
 
 Sprinkle tea-leaves on them, then sweep carefully. The former should 
 not be swept frequently with a whisk brush, as it wears them fast; only 
 once a week, and at other times with the leaves and a hair brush. 
 Fine carpets should be gently done with a hair handbrush, such as for 
 clothes, on the knees. 
 
 To clean Carpets. 
 
 Take up the carpet, let it be well beaten, then laid down, and brushed 
 on both sides with a hand-brush; turn it the right side upwards, and 
 scour it with ox-gall, or with a mixture of scraped potatoes and water, 
 and soap and water very clean, and dry it with linen cloths. Then 
 lay it out on the grass, or hang it up to dry. 
 
 To clean Tin Covers, and Patent Pewter Porter Pots. 
 
 Get the finest whiting, which is only sold in large cakes, the small 
 being mixed with sand ; mix a little of it powdered, with the least diop 
 of sweet oil, and rub well, and wipe clean ; then dust some dry whiting 
 in a muslin bag over, and rub bright with dry leather. The last is to 
 prevent rust, which the cook must be careful to guard agaiust by wiping 
 dry, and putting by the fire when they come from the parlour; for if 
 but once hung up without, the steam will rust the inside. 
 
 To clean Britannia metal goods. 
 
 Take a piece of fine woollen cloth, put on it as much sweet oil as will 
 prevent its rubbing dry; with this rub them well on every p-art; then 
 wipe them smartly with a soft dry linen rag, until they are quite clean, 
 and rub them up with soft wash-leather and whiting. This method 
 will preserve the colour as long as the articles endure. They will be 
 still improved if, immediately before applying the wash-leather and 
 whiting, they be washed in boiling soap suds, as this will effectually 
 remove the oil, and cause the embossed work to look brighter. 
 
 To take Stains out of Black Dresses. 
 
 Boil a handful of fig leaves in two quarts of water, till reduced to & 
 pint. Strain, and apply witli a sponge. 
 
 To prevent the creaking of a Door or Window. 
 
 Rub a bit of soap on the hinges of the door or line of the window. 
 
 To preserve Geraniums through the Winter. 
 
 Before the frost sets in, take the plants out of the ground, shake the 
 mould from the roots, cut down the tops, and lay the stems in a box of 
 dry sand, to be kept in a warm cellar through the winter. A vast num¬ 
 ber of plants may be preserved in a bushel or two of sand, filling the 
 box with alternate layers of sand and geraniums, and taking care that 
 every part of the geraniums be covered. When spring sets in, take 
 them out, plant them in suitable pots of rich mould, or in borders of die 
 garden, and they will soon shoot forth in full vigour, and blossom finely. 
 
 To pickle Nasturtiums. 
 
 These should be gathered daily, while quite young, and immediately 
 put into a jar with cold vinegar and covered over ; thus adding nastur¬ 
 tiums and vinegar till the jar is full, then tie down. They require n» 
 other addition whatever. 
 
8J2 LAWS CONCERNING MASTERS AND SERVANTS 
 
 LAWS CONCERNING MASTERS AND SERVANTS. 
 
 A servant, through carelessness, setting fire to a dwelling-house ov 
 out-bouse, is liable to a penalty of twenty pounds, and six month's con- 
 tinement in the house of correction. Where servants are hired by the 
 year, they cannot be discharged before the expiration of that time, 
 without their own consent, or some reasonable cause, to be allowed by a 
 magistrate. All hiring, without stipulation of time, is hiring for a year 
 If a servant refuses to serve his term, he may be committed till he gives 
 security to fulfil his engagement, or he may be sent to the house of cor¬ 
 rection. A yearly servant shall not be discharged for sickness or any 
 other disability by the act of God, nor shall his wages be abated. A 
 master detaining a servant’s wages, or not allowing him sufficient food, 
 is a cause for his leaving the place, by appeal to a magistrate. If a 
 master or mistress refuse to give a character to a servant, an action will 
 lie; and so likewise, if they say any thing wrong, whereby such servant 
 is prevented from getting another place. On the other hand, the fabri¬ 
 cation of a false or fictitious character by a servant, is punishable by 
 imprisonment in the house of correction. If a servant, who is hired for a 
 term, quit his place without consent before the end of it, he loses his 
 wages. A servant hired for a month cannot be discharged till the whole 
 wages be paid, unless for some reasonable cause shewn before a magis¬ 
 trate. If a servant, after warning, is insolent, and refuses to do his 
 duty, he may be comn Tted to prison, but without forfeiting his wages, 
 even for the time he in confinement. If any servant shall purloin, or 
 make away with f„ master’s goods, to the value of forty shillings, it is 
 felony. If masters, on hiring servants, deliver into their custody valu¬ 
 able articles of properly, and tel! them, before witnesses, that they must 
 be responsible for the same, the law will oblige them to replace whatever 
 may be lost, except the casual breaking of china or glass, which are 
 necessarily liable to accidents. Whatever trespass a servant commits 
 oy uiuer of his emp.oyer, the masier is answerable for. A servant may 
 also stand up in the defence of his master or mistress, and attack any 
 person that assaults them, without being liable to a prosecution for so 
 doing. If a master deliver the key of a room to a servant, and he steals 
 therefrom to the value of a shilling, it is felony. If any goods be de¬ 
 livered to the care of a servant above eighteen years old, and he go 
 away with them, or convert them to his own use, it is felony. Servants 
 pawning the goods of their masters, without orders, shall forfeit twenty 
 shillings, together with the value of the property, or be sent to the house 
 of correction l ir three months. Such goods may be searched for by a 
 warrant, and stall be restored to the owner. A servant setting fire 
 carelessly to the house of his master, is liable to pay, on the oath of one 
 credible witness, a penalty of one hundred pounds, cr be committed to 
 prison and bard labour for eighteen months. A female servant ho 
 marries, is obliged to abide the stipulated time ; and if both man and 
 wile are servants by the year, they must continue in place till the ex¬ 
 piration of that term. Should a woman with child hire herself for - 
 term, and the master she hires with know not of her condition, he may- 
 discharge her, but not without the consent of a magistrate. If she p ove 
 with child during her servitude, he may do the same; but if he do not 
 discharge her before a justice of the peace when he knows of it, and 
 I ceps her, he is born to provide for her till her delivery, and one aio th 
 a' tor, when she is to be sent to her nlace of settlement. 
 
9ia 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 FOOD FOR INFANTS. 
 
 £Omitted fug* U02.] 
 
 As to the food of infants, the mother’s milk is always preferable, when 
 circumstances will admit; but where this cannot be enjoyed, or is 
 insufficient to the nourishment of a child, the nature of its food must be 
 regulated by the state of its bowels and its general health. At first, 
 there is nothing better than equal parts of gruel and cows milk, very little, 
 if at all, sweetened.—Sugar is apt to turn acid on the stomach of an infant, 
 and to occasion fever. Food, in which is either sugar or milk, must by no 
 means be re-warmed, otherwise it becomes very injurious. 
 
 Hour Pup. 
 
 For this purpose the flour should be tied in a bag and boiled for a 
 considerable time, or else dried in an oven. It may then be made 
 thick with water in the same manner as gruel, and cooled and thinned 
 with new milk. 
 
 Bread, Pap. 
 
 For this purpose the top crust of a loaf is best; it should be soaked 
 an hour or two in cold water, then simmered over the fire till it becomes 
 like a thick jelly, when it may be beaten up and moderately sweetened ; 
 and if approved, cooled with milk. 
 
 Rusks, or Tops and Bottoms, 
 
 Are much used as food for infants—(by far the best are obtained a 
 Leman’s, Threadneedle Street.) They may be prepared exactly in the 
 same manner as bread pap. Some people boil down enough to serve a 
 day or two, and re-warm it as occasion requires ; but the trouble is not 
 great to boil fresh every time of feeding, and the food is much more 
 wholesome and agreeable. 
 
 Biscuit Powder 
 
 Is procured at the same place, and may be prepared in much the same 
 manner. When children are weaned, and for some time afterwards, 
 their diet should consist chiefly of milk.—This may be thickened with 
 either flour, rice, oatmeal or bread. The two former are preferable 
 w'hen their bow els are relaxed—ttie latter wnen they are confined. 
 
 A little broth will sometimes suitably vary their diet, which mav ba 
 thickened in the same manner as milk. 
 
INDEX 
 
 ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Occidents, treatment of 
 
 
 rm 
 
 Apple pudding 79, 435, 436 
 
 Admiral's sauce 
 
 
 373 
 
 puffs 
 
 467, 4T<) 
 
 Alabaster, to clean 
 
 
 802 
 
 sauce 
 
 369 
 
 Albamy cake 
 
 426 
 
 428 
 
 trifle 
 
 487 
 
 Ale, carrot 
 
 
 659 
 
 water 
 
 611 
 
 China 
 
 
 660 
 
 Apricot cream 
 
 481, 482 
 
 to refine 
 
 
 657 
 
 pie 
 
 74 
 
 Welsh 
 
 
 658 
 
 pudding 
 
 435 
 
 Windsor 
 
 
 659 
 
 to preset ve 507 
 
 , 510,516, 
 
 whey, or posset 
 
 
 615 
 
 
 521 
 
 Almond biscuits 
 
 
 571 
 
 Artichokes, to dress 
 
 96 
 
 cakes 
 
 587 
 
 588 
 
 pie 
 
 461 
 
 cheesecakes 
 
 
 444 
 
 to pickle 
 
 534 
 
 custards 
 
 
 442 
 
 to preserve 
 
 111,526 
 
 cream 
 
 
 485 
 
 Aromatic tincture 
 
 698 
 
 cups 
 
 
 474 
 
 Arrowroot, to prepare 
 
 607 
 
 fraise 
 
 
 450 
 
 Asparagus, to boil 
 
 94 
 
 paste 
 
 474, 
 
 588 
 
 to preserve 
 
 526 
 
 paste, w 1 i 
 
 
 589 
 
 sauce 
 
 365 
 
 ditto, yellow 
 
 
 589 
 
 Aspic sauce 
 
 367 
 
 puffs 
 
 
 470 
 
 Ass’s milk 
 
 615 
 
 puddings 
 
 401 
 
 431 
 
 artificial 
 
 616 
 
 tarts 
 
 
 469 
 
 Ayres’s pancakes 
 
 444 
 
 wafers. 
 
 
 475 
 
 pudding 
 
 422 
 
 Almonds, burnt 
 
 
 598 
 
 rich plum cake 
 
 574 
 
 Amber pudding 
 
 
 433 
 
 
 
 American flour 
 
 
 556 
 
 Bacon, to salt 
 
 35, 409 
 
 potash cakes 
 
 
 570 
 
 Buckinghamshire 
 
 me- 
 
 blight, to cure 
 
 
 800 
 
 thod 
 
 410 
 
 Anchovy sauce 
 
 
 377 
 
 Hamburgh 
 
 ib. 
 
 toast 
 
 
 636 
 
 Somersetshire 
 
 409 
 
 Andouilles 
 
 
 404 
 
 Westphalia 
 
 410 
 
 Anecdote 
 
 
 681 
 
 Wiltshire 
 
 409 
 
 Angelica, to candy 
 
 
 627 
 
 to boil 
 
 415 
 
 tarts 
 
 
 469 
 
 to broil 
 
 ib. 
 
 water 
 
 
 701 
 
 Balllie, Br. his prescription for 
 
 Anodyne balsam 
 
 
 795 
 
 bilious persons 
 
 786 
 
 Apparent drowning 
 
 
 766 
 
 Baked gooseberry, or 
 
 apple 
 
 Apples dried 
 
 
 498 
 
 pudding 
 
 79 
 
 to prepare for p 
 
 resent 
 
 Baking, remarks on 
 
 61 
 
 use 
 
 
 510 
 
 Balls currie 
 
 390 
 
 red, to prepare 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 egg 
 
 390 
 
 and rice 
 
 
 478 
 
 snow 
 
 478 
 
 fritters 
 
 
 446 
 
 Balloon cakes 
 
 564 
 
 fool 
 
 
 433 
 
 Balm tea 
 
 613 
 
 pastilla 
 
 
 496 
 
 Balsam, anodyne 
 
 795 
 
 pie 
 
 
 74 
 
 black 
 
 t&. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 815 
 
 
 Page J 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Balsam of honey 
 
 626 j 
 
 Beef, sanders 
 
 
 132 
 
 Banbury e kes 
 
 584 
 
 sausages 
 
 
 393 
 
 bride cake 
 
 577 
 
 shin of, to stew 
 
 
 43 
 
 Barberry drops 
 
 514 
 
 sirloin, to force 
 
 
 181 
 
 Barberries, to pickle 
 
 504,, 535 
 
 steaks 37, 40, 130, 
 
 131, 
 
 132 
 
 to preserve 
 
 505,, 520 
 
 pie 
 
 71, 
 
 454 
 
 Bark, preparations of 
 
 788, 791 
 
 pudding 
 
 
 77 
 
 Barley broth, German 
 
 317 
 
 tea 
 
 
 291 
 
 Scotcli 
 
 BIG 
 
 wowwow sauce for 
 
 
 362 
 
 with meat 
 
 317 
 
 Beer, cheap 
 
 
 659 
 
 cream 
 
 486 
 
 to fine 
 
 
 657 
 
 gruel 
 
 606 
 
 ginger 
 
 
 662 
 
 pudding- 
 
 439 
 
 home brewed, directions 
 
 sugar 
 
 597, 598 
 
 tor maki ig 
 
 
 613 
 
 water 
 
 610 
 
 ingredients of 
 
 
 647 
 
 Bath buns 
 
 564, 565 
 
 ropy, to cure 
 
 
 656 
 
 cakes 
 
 582 
 
 Beer sour, to cure 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 rolls 
 
 560 
 
 to prevent from beconnn 
 
 or 
 
 5 # 
 
 Batter pudding 
 
 77 
 
 sour 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Beans 
 
 93 
 
 spruce 
 
 
 661 
 
 French ditto 
 
 ib. 
 
 treacle 
 
 
 660 
 
 to preserve 
 
 110, 525 
 
 yeast for 
 
 648 
 
 661 
 
 Bechamelle chitterlings 
 
 404 
 
 Beetles, &c. to destroy 
 
 
 799 
 
 or white sauce 
 
 341 
 
 Beet root, red 
 
 103, 
 
 53S 
 
 Beef, a-la-mode 
 
 125 
 
 white 
 
 
 95 
 
 a-la-vingrette 
 
 133 
 
 Benton sauce 
 
 
 372 
 
 to bake 
 
 127 
 
 Bignets of rice 
 
 
 478 
 
 boil 
 
 28 
 
 Bilboquet fritters 
 
 
 4 IS 
 
 bouillie of 128. 129, 316 
 
 Bills of fare 
 
 
 724 
 
 brisket of 
 
 43,128 
 
 Birch wine 
 
 
 691 
 
 to choose 
 
 12 
 
 Biscuits 
 
 
 567 
 
 cakes 
 
 131 
 
 almond 
 
 
 571 
 
 Cecils 
 
 133 
 
 American potash 
 
 
 570 
 
 collared 
 
 130 
 
 chocolate 
 
 
 571 
 
 collops of 
 
 131 
 
 cream 
 
 
 570 
 
 Dutch 
 
 416 
 
 crisp 
 
 
 568 
 
 forced 
 
 130 
 
 drops 
 
 
 567 
 
 forcemeat for 
 
 386 
 
 hard 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 fricandeau of 
 
 126 
 
 Italian 
 
 
 570 
 
 Ificassee of 
 
 132 
 
 Judge’s 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 hash of 
 
 49 
 
 Naples 
 
 
 567 
 
 gravy of 
 
 340, 342 
 
 Palais royal 
 
 
 569 
 
 hung 
 
 134 
 
 sponge 
 
 
 569 
 
 hunter’s 
 
 120 
 
 fruit 
 
 
 513 
 
 Irish 
 
 417 
 
 Bisk of pigeons 
 
 
 216 
 
 joints of 
 
 13 
 
 Bitter oranges, to pickle 
 
 
 536 
 
 olives 
 
 132 
 
 Black cock, to roast 
 
 
 231 
 
 palates 
 
 131 
 
 to pot 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 pasty 
 
 459 
 
 Blackberry wine 
 
 
 6ff‘ 
 
 patties 
 
 475 
 
 Black butter 
 
 
 51 J 
 
 pickle for 
 
 30,416 
 
 currants, jam 
 
 
 506 
 
 dotted 
 
 134 
 
 jelly of 
 
 
 503 
 
 pressed 
 
 129 
 
 lozenges of 
 
 
 512 
 
 red 
 
 135 
 
 wine 
 
 670 
 
 , 684 
 
 to rewarrn 
 
 132 
 
 Blacking, recipes for * 
 
 
 807 
 
 ribs in porcupine 
 
 136 
 
 balls 
 
 
 803 
 
 ribs stuffed, rolled 
 
 133,134 
 
 cakes 
 
 
 807 
 
 to roast 
 
 20 
 
 Black caps 
 
 
 498 
 
 rump, to stew 
 
 126, 181 
 
 Black cherry water 
 
 
 700 
 
 to *air 
 
 416 
 
 wine 
 
 
 69!) 
 
816 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 « Aj't. 
 
 Black puddings 393 
 
 Blancmange 489 , 620 
 
 lice 478 
 
 Blanquet of turkey 204 
 
 Blister, to dress 793 
 
 Blown sugar 501 
 
 Blue colouring for sweetmeats 596 
 for stucco 808 
 
 dye ib. 
 
 Buckings 451 
 
 Boerhave’s buttermilk 616 
 
 Boiling, directions for 21 
 
 Boiled paste 76 
 
 Bologna sausages 395, 397 
 
 Boot tops, to clean 806 
 
 Bottle, musty, to cure 662 
 
 Bowel complaints, treatment 
 , of 762 
 
 Bran tea 610 
 
 Brandy, cherry 697 
 
 pudding 441 
 
 raspberry 696 
 
 whey 615 
 
 Brawn pickle 417 
 
 mock 418 
 
 Bread, biscuit and bun making 551 
 Bread 554 
 
 cheap 556 
 
 diet 563, 568 
 
 French 558 
 
 hunting 563 
 
 leavened 557 
 
 potatoe ib. 
 
 rice and wheat 556 
 
 and butter poultice 770 
 
 pudding 81 
 
 pudding 84,427 
 
 brown, pudding 428 
 
 pap,sauce 374 
 
 and milk poultice 791 
 
 Scotch short 578 
 
 and water poultice 791 
 
 Breakfast recipes for 629 
 
 Brewing, directions for 643 
 
 utensils for 644 
 
 Brimstone, use of in cleaning 803 
 Bristol cakes 586 
 
 British wines 664 
 
 Britannia metal, to clean 811 
 
 Broiling, remarks on 36 
 
 Broil, sauce for a 363 
 
 Broths 284,291 
 
 barley 316, 317 
 
 beef 291 
 
 call’s/eet 294 
 
 meat 293 
 
 chicken 291,292 
 
 fish 294 
 
 fowl and veal 292 
 
 keeping, #r 293 
 
 Brotl s of mixed meats 293 
 
 mutton 301 
 
 nourishing 293 
 
 quick made ib 
 
 Scotch 316 
 
 shank 294 
 
 sheep’s head 320 
 
 Brocoh, to dress 94 
 
 Bro.se, fat 31s 
 
 Brown bread cream 484 
 
 ice 496 
 
 pudding 428 
 
 Brown caudle 605 
 
 soup 325 
 
 stock 295 
 
 Bruises, oil and ointment for 793 
 Brunoise soup 311 
 
 Brunswick mum 699 
 
 Bubble and squeak 42 
 
 Buckinghamshire bacon 4io 
 
 Bugs, to destroy 799 
 
 Bullace, to keep 524 
 
 Buns 5 64 
 
 Uath 564,565 
 
 breakfast 559 
 
 carraway comfit 565 
 
 common ib. 
 
 cross 566 
 
 London wigs 664 
 
 Phi m 566 
 
 Scotch half peck ib. 
 
 seed ib. 
 
 Burns, treatment of 57J 
 
 Burnt cream 484 
 
 almonds 593 
 
 cinnamon ditto ib. 
 
 w hite sugared ditto ib. 
 
 Butcher’s meat ji ; 125 
 
 Butter, to make 704 
 
 Dutch method 705 
 
 freshen salt 707 
 
 to melt 346 
 
 to preserve 706 
 
 to purify rancid 707 
 
 whey ib. 
 
 Buttered eggs 635 
 
 rice 478 
 
 toddy 639 
 
 Buttermilk pudding 437 
 
 Cabbage, to boil 92 
 
 pudding 431 
 
 red, to stew 99 
 
 to pickle 541 
 
 soup 306 
 
 Cabinet pudding 433 
 
 Cakes 57] 
 
 almond 6*J,5S8 
 
 American potash 670 
 
 Ayres’s rich plum 674 
 

 
 INDEX. 
 
 817 
 
 Cakes balloon 
 
 
 Page 
 
 564 
 
 Candied sugar for cast 
 
 fi. ** 
 
 Ranbury 
 
 
 584 
 
 gures 
 
 600 
 
 Banbury bride 
 
 
 577 
 
 Candies 
 
 Bath 
 
 565 
 
 ,582 
 
 angelica 
 
 627 
 
 Bristol 
 
 
 586 
 
 Cassia 
 
 ib. 
 
 Chantilly 
 
 
 487 
 
 cherries 
 
 521 
 
 cheap seed 
 
 
 581 
 
 ginger 
 
 626 
 
 Chesterton 
 
 
 583 
 
 horehound 
 
 ib. 
 
 cinnamon 
 
 
 585 
 
 lemon-peel 
 
 521 
 
 common reed 
 
 
 580 
 
 orange-peel 
 
 521,522 
 
 Derby 
 
 559 
 
 , 582 
 
 paste 
 
 599 
 
 dripping 
 
 
 573 
 
 rhubarb 
 
 626 
 
 Dutch 
 
 
 582 
 
 rock 
 
 599 
 
 ice for 
 
 
 574 
 
 Capillaire, syrup of 
 
 022 
 
 Kent drop 
 
 
 585 
 
 Capsicums, to pickle 
 
 537 
 
 Marlborough 
 
 
 579 
 
 Caper sauce 
 
 366, 368 
 
 nun’s 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Caramel sugar 
 
 502 
 
 nut 
 
 
 589 
 
 Cassia, to candy 
 
 627 
 
 oat 
 
 
 561 
 
 Carp, to bake 
 
 277, 282 
 
 Oxford 
 
 
 559 
 
 to boil 
 
 270 
 
 pepper 
 
 
 581 
 
 to broil 
 
 280 
 
 plain currant, or seed 
 
 574 
 
 to fry 
 
 276 
 
 plum, very rich 
 
 574 
 
 ,575 
 
 German method 
 
 277 
 
 not so rich 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 to stew 
 
 276 
 
 poor man’s 
 
 
 573 
 
 seasoning for 
 
 384 
 
 Portugal 
 
 
 587 
 
 pie 
 
 462 
 
 pound 
 
 
 579 
 
 Carnations, &c. to pickle 
 
 535 
 
 queen 
 
 
 583 
 
 Carpets, to clean 
 
 81 l 
 
 raspberry 
 
 
 590 
 
 Carr a way comfits 
 
 601 
 
 ratafia 
 
 
 588 
 
 comfit wigs 
 
 565 
 
 rice 
 
 
 581 
 
 Carrots, to boil 
 
 104 
 
 Sally Lun’s 
 
 
 560 
 
 sauce 
 
 359 
 
 savoy 
 
 
 569 
 
 pudding 
 
 432 
 
 seed” 579, 
 
 580, 
 
 581 
 
 soup 
 
 303 
 
 Shrewsbury 
 
 
 585 
 
 Carving, directions for 
 
 731 
 
 small short 
 
 
 582 
 
 Casks, to sweeten 
 
 691 
 
 small white 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Casserole of rice 
 
 477 
 
 sugared 
 
 
 585 
 
 Castor oil 
 
 734 
 
 Tunbridge 
 
 
 586 
 
 Catsup 
 
 543 
 
 twelfth 
 
 
 576 
 
 very choice 
 
 ' 648 
 
 Calf’s brains 
 
 
 156 
 
 cucumber 
 
 550 
 
 feet 
 
 33, 
 
 157 
 
 muscle 
 
 ib. 
 
 broth 
 
 294, 
 
 619 
 
 mushroom 
 
 548 
 
 jelly 
 
 617, 
 
 619 
 
 sugar for brovning 550 
 
 pie 
 
 
 486 
 
 walnut 
 
 649 
 
 head to boil 
 
 
 33 
 
 Cauliflowers to boil 
 
 91 
 
 and bake 
 
 154 
 
 sauce 
 
 365 
 
 to fricassee 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 or brocoli to 
 
 
 to hash 
 
 
 155 
 
 pickle 
 
 637 
 
 to collar 
 
 
 156 
 
 Cayenne, essence of 
 
 551 
 
 pie 
 
 
 456 
 
 Caudle 
 
 604 
 
 Scotch method 
 
 
 153 
 
 beer 
 
 605 
 
 soup 
 
 
 331 
 
 cold 
 
 ib. 
 
 stew 
 
 
 49 
 
 flour 
 
 606 
 
 kidneys 
 
 
 157 
 
 white 
 
 604 
 
 pluck 
 
 
 152 
 
 Celery, stewed 
 
 98 
 
 «.,alomel powder 
 
 
 786 
 
 sauce 
 
 358 
 
 Camomile tea 
 
 
 613 
 
 soup 
 
 338 
 
 Camp vinegar 
 
 546, 
 
 805 
 
 vinegar 
 
 547 
 
 Candied sugar 
 
 
 501 
 
 Cement for china 
 
 809, 8H> 
 
8J8 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Cement for wood and paper 
 
 Page 
 
 810 
 
 Cervelas sausages 
 
 394 
 
 Chantilly cake 
 
 487 
 
 Chapped hands, remedy for 
 Cheap food 
 
 796 
 
 seed cake 
 
 580 
 
 soup 
 
 339 
 
 Cheese, to make 
 
 708 
 
 Cheshire 
 
 711 
 
 cream 
 
 709 
 
 with rushes 
 
 710 
 
 to preserve sound 
 
 712 
 
 Gloucester 
 
 711 
 
 marigold 
 
 712 
 
 net 
 
 ib. 
 
 potted 
 
 ib. 
 
 sage 
 
 709 
 
 Stilton 
 to toast 
 
 711 
 
 Cheeses (of fruit) 
 
 513 
 
 damson 
 
 ib. 
 
 Italian 
 
 509 
 
 muscle plum 
 
 513 
 
 Cheesecakes 
 
 443 
 
 almond 
 
 444 
 
 Ayres’s 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cheese pudding 
 
 442 
 
 Cherry pie 
 
 70 
 
 Cherries, to dry 
 
 518 
 
 to preserve 508, 
 
 512, 
 
 518 
 
 to candy 
 
 621 
 
 in bottles 
 
 524 
 
 Cherry brandy 
 
 697 
 
 water 
 
 700 
 
 wine 079, 
 
 690 
 
 Chervil sauce 
 
 366 
 
 Cheshire pork pie 
 
 460 
 
 Chesnut pudding 
 
 441 
 
 soup 
 
 306 
 
 stuffing 
 
 381 
 
 Chesterton cakes 
 
 583 
 
 Chilblains, remedies for 780, 
 
 795 
 
 Children, diseases of 
 
 733 
 
 Chili vinegar 
 
 546 
 
 Chimney, to extinguish fires in 806 
 
 Chevreuil sauce 
 
 373 
 
 China, chilo 
 
 171 
 
 to cement 
 
 809 
 
 Chinese method 
 
 810 
 
 orange cream 
 
 482 
 
 Chickens, to boil 
 
 196 
 
 to braise 195, 
 
 200 
 
 to broil 
 
 197 
 
 to face 
 
 195 
 
 to fry 
 
 ib. 
 
 to fricasse e 
 
 198 
 
 to hash 
 
 197 
 
 to pull 
 
 199 
 
 pie 
 
 70 
 
 Chickenu, to stew 
 
 Page 
 
 197 
 
 to stew, with ve- 
 
 getables 
 
 201 
 
 chiringrate 
 
 ib. 
 
 larded 
 
 202 
 
 with mushrooms 201 
 
 broth 
 
 291,292 
 
 currie 
 
 199 
 
 fritters 
 
 448 
 
 Chitterlings, pork 
 
 403,404 
 
 veal 
 
 404 
 
 Chocolate, to make 
 
 632 
 
 cream 
 
 488 
 
 drops or biscuits 571 
 
 puffs 
 
 47 L 
 
 tarts 
 
 4C9 
 
 Chub, to roast 
 
 280 
 
 to broil 
 
 ib. 
 
 Cider and perry, to mase 
 
 694 
 
 raisin wine with 
 
 079 
 
 vinegar 
 
 541 
 
 Cinnamon cakes 
 
 585 
 
 water 
 
 701 
 
 Citron pudding 
 
 439 
 
 Civette of rabbits 
 
 220 
 
 Clary wine * 
 
 687 
 
 Cloves, syrup of 
 
 623 
 
 to pickle 
 
 535 
 
 Cocoa, to make 
 
 633 
 
 Cockle sauce 
 
 377 
 
 catsup 
 
 550 
 
 Cochineal for colouring sweet- 
 
 meats red 
 
 596 
 
 Cod, to dress 
 
 115 
 
 currie of 
 
 244, 247 
 
 pie 
 
 462 
 
 salt 
 
 243 
 
 stuffing for 
 
 247 
 
 Cod’s head and shoulders 
 
 241 
 
 to boil 242 
 
 to ragout ib. 
 
 sounds 
 
 242, 243 
 
 Codlings, like salt fish 
 
 244 
 
 Codlin cream 
 
 489 
 
 Codlins and cream 
 
 497 
 
 to scald 
 
 ib. 
 
 Coffee, to make 
 
 631, 632 
 
 cream 
 
 483 
 
 miik 
 
 632 
 
 Colcannon 
 
 102 
 
 Cole worts, to dress 
 
 92 
 
 leaves to dress a blister793 
 
 Collops, Scotch 138, 
 
 139, 140 
 
 veal 
 
 139,141 
 
 Colouring for ice 
 
 495 
 
 Colds, remedies for 
 
 758, 778 
 
 Common seed cake 
 
 680 
 
 Compote of pigeons 
 
 214 
 
 Conde soup 
 
 BOO 
 
 Conserves, See. 
 
 622 
 
 * Erroaeoswls printed Clarify wti>«. 
 
INDEX. 819 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Conserves for cough 
 
 025 
 
 Creams, imperial 
 
 
 488 
 
 of hips and haws 
 
 ib. 
 
 ice 
 
 
 486 
 
 lemon and orange 
 
 ib. 
 
 Italian 
 
 
 480 
 
 orange-peel 
 
 ib. 
 
 mille fruits 
 
 
 480 
 
 roses 
 
 024 
 
 noyeau 
 
 
 485 
 
 Coj vulsions, treatment of 
 
 777 
 
 orange without cream 
 
 483 
 
 Cookery for the sick, &c. 
 
 795 
 
 orange flower 
 
 
 484 
 
 Cooper’s, Sir Astley, remedy 
 
 
 pine apple 
 
 
 482 
 
 for chilblains 
 
 
 pistachio 
 
 
 483 
 
 Cordials, &c 
 
 095 
 
 plain 
 
 
 485 
 
 aromatic tincture 
 
 098 
 
 raspberry 
 
 
 481 
 
 Brunswick mum 
 
 099 
 
 ratafia 
 
 
 484 
 
 cherry brandy 
 
 097 
 
 snow 
 
 
 498 
 
 English hypocras 
 
 099 
 
 Spanish 
 
 
 48G 
 
 macaroni 
 
 098 
 
 steeple 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Norfolk punch 
 
 097 
 
 tea 
 
 
 483 
 
 Noveau 
 
 090 
 
 tamarind 
 
 
 485 
 
 raspberry brandy 
 
 ib. 
 
 vanilla 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 ratifia 
 
 ib. 
 
 pancakes 
 
 
 445 
 
 shrub 
 
 G98 
 
 pudding 
 
 
 431 
 
 Usquebaugh 
 
 097 
 
 Cress vinegar 
 
 
 547 
 
 Corrosive poisons, antidotes 
 
 
 Cressy soup 
 
 
 SOS 
 
 against 
 
 709 
 
 Creaking doors and windows, 
 
 
 Costiveness in children 
 
 775 
 
 to cure 
 
 
 811 
 
 Cows, management of 
 
 702 
 
 Crickets, to destroy 
 
 
 800 
 
 Cough, medicines for 
 
 787 
 
 Cringles 
 
 
 563 
 
 Cow heels, to dress 
 
 32 
 
 Croup 
 
 
 778 
 
 Cow heel pudding 
 
 425 
 
 Clitten pie 
 
 
 70 
 
 Cowslip pudding 
 
 438 
 
 Croquante paste 
 
 
 453 
 
 mead 
 
 089 
 
 Crumpets 
 
 
 661 
 
 wine 673, 
 
 085 
 
 Crust soup 
 
 
 310 
 
 Crab, hot 
 
 203 
 
 Cucumber catsup 
 
 
 550 
 
 cold 
 
 264 
 
 to pickle 
 
 536, 
 
 538 
 
 sauce 
 
 377 
 
 to preserve 
 
 618, 
 
 525 
 
 Crackling, sugar 
 
 502 
 
 sauce 
 
 
 354 
 
 Cracknals, Isle of Wight 
 
 684 
 
 to stew 
 
 
 98 
 
 Crack nuts 
 
 583 
 
 vinegar 
 
 
 547 
 
 Cranberry tarts 
 
 407 
 
 Culinary phrases explained 
 
 123 
 
 jeiiy 
 
 504 
 
 Cultis 
 
 
 341 
 
 Cray fish, to boil * 
 
 279 
 
 Curds and cream 
 
 
 479 
 
 to stew 
 
 205 
 
 Curd pudding 
 
 
 438 
 
 soup 
 
 313 
 
 puffs 
 
 
 470 
 
 pudding 
 
 402 
 
 star 
 
 
 481 
 
 Cream biscuits 
 
 570 
 
 Carving, directions for 
 
 
 731 
 
 cheese 709, 
 
 710 
 
 Currant drink 
 
 
 612 
 
 Creams, syllabubs,&c. 
 
 479 
 
 fritters 
 
 
 449 
 
 almond 
 
 485 
 
 ice 
 
 
 496 
 
 apricot 
 
 482 
 
 jelly 
 
 502 
 
 503 
 
 barley 
 
 486 
 
 Currants, to keep 
 
 
 523 
 
 biscuit 
 
 484 
 
 preset ve m bunches 505 
 
 brown bread 
 
 ib. 
 
 Currant pie 
 
 
 75 
 
 burnt 
 
 ib. 
 
 Currie, balls 
 
 
 390 
 
 China orange 
 
 482 
 
 sauce 
 
 
 370 
 
 coffee 
 
 483 
 
 vinegar 
 
 
 547 
 
 chocolate 485 
 
 488 
 
 baked 
 
 
 443 
 
 codlin 
 
 489 
 
 Custards 
 
 
 442 
 
 custard 
 
 483 
 
 almond 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 for fruit pies 
 
 479 
 
 lemon 
 
 
 443 
 
 ginger 
 
 485 
 
 fritters 
 
 
 446 
 
 hot 
 
 ». 
 
 puddings 82, 
 
 431 
 
 432 
 
820 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Custard sauce 374 
 
 Cutlets, maintenon 149 
 
 of pigeons 217 
 
 of salmon 240 
 
 of veal 40, 138 
 
 Dabs 261 
 
 Daffy’s Elixir,recipe for making 789 
 Dairy, management of 702—713 
 vessels 703 
 
 amson cheese 513 
 
 amsons to preserve 509 
 
 in bottles 524 
 
 wine 689 
 
 Dartmouth pie 459 
 
 Deer, umbles, to dress 191 
 
 Delicious pudding 429 
 
 Dei by cakes 559,582 
 
 Devonshire junket 493 
 
 Diet bread 563,568 
 
 Disordered bowels in infants, 
 treatment of 775 
 
 Distilling, directions for 699 
 
 Dripping cakes 573 
 
 Drops, Barberry 514 
 
 ginger 600 
 
 lemon 601,514 
 
 peppermint 601 
 
 ratafia iff. 
 
 Drowning, apparent, means 
 to be used 766 
 
 Drying stove for sweetmeats 595 
 Duchess rolls 452 
 
 Ducks, a-la-mode 207 
 
 a-la-braise ib. 
 
 to boil 204 
 
 a-la-Frangoise 206 
 to hash ib. 
 
 management of 718 
 
 to roast 63 
 
 to ragout 206 
 
 seasoning for 380 
 
 to stew 205 
 
 with green peas ib. 
 Duke of Cumberland’s pudding 426 
 Dumplings, hard 88 
 
 Norfolk 440 
 
 Suffolk, or yeast 90 
 Dutch beef 416 
 
 cakes 582 
 
 gingerbread 591 
 
 pudding 426, 428 
 
 rice pudding 88 
 
 rusks 562 
 
 sauce 366 
 
 water sauche 279 
 
 Earwigs, to destroy 
 Eau de luce 798 
 
 vie 641 
 
 Eels, to bake 
 
 Page 
 
 272 
 
 to boil 
 
 271 
 
 to broil 
 
 ib. 
 
 to collar 
 
 274 
 
 to dress 
 
 118 
 
 to fricassee 
 
 272 
 
 to fry 
 
 27 
 
 to pot 
 
 274 
 
 to roast 
 
 271 
 
 to spitchcock 
 
 272, 273 
 
 to stew 
 
 ib. 
 
 Walton’s method 
 
 of 
 
 dressing 
 
 282 
 
 Eel pie 
 
 461 
 
 soup 
 
 314 
 
 Eggs and bacon, to prepare 41 
 
 balls 
 
 390 
 
 buttered 
 
 635 
 
 Scotch 
 
 ib. 
 
 to choose 
 
 718 
 
 flip 
 
 639 
 
 German, soup of 
 
 628 
 
 mince pie 
 
 467 
 
 to preserve 
 
 718 
 
 raw 
 
 627 
 
 sauce 
 
 373 
 
 white pot 
 
 628 
 
 wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Elder buds, to pickle 
 
 538 
 
 shoots 
 
 538,539 
 
 flower wine 
 
 688 
 
 wine 687 
 
 Electuary, opening 785 
 
 for the piles ib. 
 
 for the rheumatism 786 
 Embrocations—for convulsions 794 
 hooping cough ib. 
 sore throat 
 
 Emetics 
 
 Emulsion for a cough 
 Endive sauce 
 English bamboo, to pickle 
 glazing for pastry 
 sherry, or malt wine 
 Epping sausages 
 Eringo root jelly 
 Eschalot, or garlic vinegar 
 Essence of Cayenne 
 malt 
 
 Everlasting syllabub 
 Eve’s pudding 
 Extracts of flowers 
 Eve water 
 
 ib. 
 
 786 
 788 
 354 
 539 
 454 
 679 
 391 
 621 
 546 
 551 
 
 787 
 494 
 424 
 798 
 791 
 
 Fainting fits, treatment of 765 
 Fancy dishes (sweet) 478 
 
 Fan pastry 473 
 
 Fat brose 318 
 
 Fawn or kid, to dress ftf), 191 
 Feathers, to preserve 720 
 
821 
 
 I N D E X. 
 
 Page 
 
 Feathered sugar 502 
 
 Fender, to paint green 802 
 
 Fennel sauce 347 
 
 Fig poultice 791 
 
 Fillet of veal, to roast 21 
 
 to stew 141 
 
 Findhorn, to dress 247 
 
 Finings for wine C93 
 
 Fire, accidents by, to prevent 770 
 
 in a chimney, to 
 guish 
 
 Firmity 
 Fish 
 
 broth 
 to carve 
 gravy 
 pies 
 sauce 
 soups 
 anchovy 
 
 extin- 
 
 806 
 490 
 112 
 294 
 732 
 344 
 461—464 
 369, 375—379 
 311- 315 
 377 
 
 cod, 115, 241, 242, 243, 241, 
 247, 462 
 
 carp 276, 277, 282, 462 
 
 chub 280 
 
 cockle 377 
 
 crabs 263, 264, 377 
 
 cray 265,279,313,402 
 
 dabs 261 
 
 Dutch water sauche 279 
 eels, 118,271, 272,273,274, 
 282, 314, 461 
 
 findhorn 
 flounders 
 forcemeat, for 
 gudgeons 
 haddock 
 he' rings 
 liolibut 
 jack 
 
 jolin dory 
 lobsters 121 
 
 mackarel 
 
 247 
 261, 315 
 390 
 279 
 
 116,246, 247 
 
 118, 259, 260 
 256 
 
 119, 275, 281 
 256 
 
 .261,262,263,264, 
 313, 464, 476 
 114, 121, 248, 249, 
 250,377 
 maids 257 
 
 mock caviare 264 
 
 mullets 255 
 
 muscles 122,270 
 
 oysters 120, 265—268, 311, 
 312,370, 476, 550 
 119,279 
 119, 275,281 
 255 
 
 113, 117, 261 
 265,313 
 salmon 115,120,121,235—240, 
 
 463 
 
 salt l*? 
 
 skates 256 
 
 smelts 117, 118, 257 
 
 perch 
 
 pike 
 
 pipers 
 
 plaice 
 
 prawns 
 
 Page 
 
 Fish, soles 116, 251, 252, 253, 254, 
 
 463 
 
 sprats 118, 26! 
 
 sturgeon 121,250, 251 
 
 tench 278 
 
 thornback 256 
 
 trout 244, 245, 283, 463 
 
 turbot 114, 462 
 
 whiting 116 
 
 Flamande sauce 367 
 
 Flemish soup 307 
 
 Flies and wasps, to de¬ 
 stroy 800 
 
 Flip 639 
 
 Floating island 49! 
 
 Floor cloths, to clean 83 0 
 
 Floraudine 223 
 
 Flour caudle 606 
 
 pap ib. 
 
 Flounders, to dress 261 
 
 soup of 315 
 
 Flummery 489 
 
 Dutch ib. 
 
 oatmeal 490 
 
 rice 479, 490 
 
 Flowers, extract of 798 
 
 Fomentations 792 
 
 Forcemeat 384 
 
 balls 390 
 
 cooked 389 
 
 of fish 390 
 
 of fowl 389 
 
 French 387-389 
 
 for fowls, ot butcher’s 
 meat 386 
 
 for patties 388 
 
 for pies 386 
 
 for turtle ib. 
 
 for mock turtle 387 
 for veal 385 
 
 Fowls, to fatten 717 
 
 to manage 716 
 
 to choose 50 
 
 to truss 51 
 
 boil 52 
 
 with rice 193 
 
 to broil ib. 
 
 roast 53 
 
 to braise 195 
 
 to davenport 194 
 
 to hash ib. 
 
 to force 195 
 
 to stew 197 
 
 and rice soup 336 
 
 sauce for 343 
 
 French beans, to boil 93 
 
 to pickle 539 
 
 to preserve 110,524, 
 625 
 
 bread 658- 
 
I N D E X 
 
 
 Page 
 
 French method of pr jserving 
 
 vegetables 525 
 
 fruit pudding, or Char¬ 
 lotte 437 
 
 glazing for pastry 45 I 
 
 niaccaroons 688 
 
 paste 453 
 
 pie (raised) 455 
 
 puddings 427 
 
 in skins 398, 400 
 rolls 558 
 
 sausages, smoked 398 
 
 steaks 108 
 
 stock 297 
 
 Friar’s chicken soup 332 
 
 Fricandeau of pigeon 210 
 
 of veal 146 
 
 Fricassees, of chicken 198 
 
 of oysters 268 
 
 pigeon 215 
 
 rabbit 218 
 
 salmon 239 
 
 soles 254 
 
 sauce for 372 
 
 Fried patties 477 
 
 Fritters 83 
 
 apple 440 
 
 bilboquet 448 
 
 chicken ib . 
 
 currant 449 
 
 custard 410 
 
 German 449 
 
 hasty 447 
 
 orange 449 
 
 parsnip 418 
 
 potatoe 447 
 
 raspberry 450 
 
 • rice 447 
 
 royal 448 
 
 strawberry 450 
 
 tansey " ib. 
 
 wafer 449 
 
 Frontignac wine 088 
 
 Frosted codlins and cream 497 
 
 Fruits prepared for present use 490 
 preserving, remarks on 499 
 to pre erve fresh all the 
 year 525, 802 
 
 green 524 
 
 for puddings 511 
 
 for tarts or desserts 515 
 
 to candy 520 
 
 to recover from frost 802 
 Frying, directions for 39 
 
 Gallino curds and whey 708 
 
 Game, to dress 58 
 
 to keep ib, 
 
 sonu 302 
 
 Gardener s calendar 742 
 
 Page 
 
 Garlic sauce 319, 357, 304, 3G6 
 Geese, management of 719 
 
 Geneva method of drying 
 
 salmon 238 
 
 of stewing trout 245 
 George pudding 436 
 
 German barley broth 317 
 
 egg soup 628 
 
 fritters 449 
 
 horseradish sauce 372 
 
 methodof dressing earp277 
 
 pudding 437 
 
 rolls 659 
 
 sauce 360 
 
 sausages 395 
 
 polish lor mahogany 808 
 Giblet pie 64, 70 
 
 stew 54 
 
 soup 327 
 
 Gilding, to clean 810 
 
 Gilliflowers, to pickle 535 
 
 Ginger beer 662, 663 
 
 candied 626 
 
 cream 485 
 
 drops 600 
 
 essence of 651 
 
 pudding 434 
 
 wine 684 
 
 Gingerbread 590 
 
 cakes 593 
 
 common light 592 
 
 without butter 591 
 
 Dutch ib 
 
 line ib. 
 
 honeycomb or roll 594 
 orange 692 
 
 plain 691 
 
 queen’s 594 
 
 nuts 593 
 
 fine ditto ib. 
 
 vildogvW JyLlIlG'II 
 
 Glasses, to clean 
 Glazing for pastiy 
 Gloucester green 
 
 Glue 
 
 ■ip 
 
 Golden pippins, to stew 
 Goose a la-mode 
 to boil 
 
 641 
 
 610 
 
 810 
 
 454 
 
 711 
 
 619 
 
 809 
 
 ib. 
 
 497 
 
 208 
 
 ib. 
 
 to hash 210 
 
 legs and wings 209 
 
 to marinate ib. 
 
 to ragout 
 to roast 
 seasoning for 
 Gooseberry fool 
 jam 
 jelly 
 
 208 
 51 
 380 
 488 
 608,507 
 501 
 
I N D E X. 
 
 823 
 
 Page 
 
 gooseberry pie 74 
 
 pudding 79, 435 
 
 sauce 369 
 
 trifle 487 
 
 vinegar 544 
 
 wine 605, 667,682 
 Gooseberries, to bottle 522, 524 
 
 red 517 
 
 ripe, to preserve 505 
 Gourd, or vegetable marrow 
 to dress 95 
 
 Grapes, to preserve 802 
 
 wine 669,671,680 
 
 Grateful pudding 425 
 
 Gratin 388 
 
 Gravies, general remarks on 284 
 
 Gravy stock, (rich) 298 
 
 soup 302 
 
 plain 339 
 
 beef 340—342 
 
 to draw 339 
 
 fish 314 
 
 keeping 340 
 
 liver 343 
 
 Grayling, to dress 283 
 
 Grease, to remove from paper 803, 
 
 804 
 
 leather ib. 
 
 silk or woollen ib. 
 
 Green, to colour sweetmeats 597 
 
 dye 809 
 
 Green bean pudding 440 
 
 Green peas, to boil 92, 93 
 
 to preserve 110 
 
 porridge of 107 
 
 sauce 365 
 
 soup 105,304 
 
 tart 468 
 
 Greengages, to preserve 512 
 
 Green pudding 428 
 
 sauce 352 
 
 Grilled crusts for soup 310 
 
 Griskin, to dress 183 
 
 Ground rice milk 609 
 
 pudding 87 
 
 Grouse to roast 231 
 
 Growth of hair, to promote 798 
 
 Gruel, barley 606 
 
 grit 602 
 
 oatmeal 603 
 
 rice 605 
 
 Gudgeons, to dress 279 
 
 Guinea fowl, to dress 57, 234 
 
 Haddock, to dress 116, 246 
 
 stuffing for 247, 384 
 
 Haggis, to prepare 180 
 
 Hair, growth of, to promote 798 
 
 Ham, to boil 36, 415 
 
 Hamburgh pickle 410 
 
 Ham sauce 344 
 
 Hams, pickle for 411—415 
 
 New England 414 
 
 Westphalia 415 
 
 Yorkshire ib. 
 
 Hard biscuits 567 
 
 pomatum 797 
 
 Hare, boned and larded 223 
 
 to broil ib. 
 
 cakes> 224 
 
 florendinc of 223 
 
 to hash 222 
 
 to hotchpotch ib. 
 
 to jug 22i 
 
 pie 460 
 
 roast 58 
 
 salmi of 226 
 
 sauce for 301 
 
 soup of 224, 330 
 
 to stew - ib 
 
 stuffing for 383 
 
 Harrico of mutton 46, 164 
 
 veal 149 
 
 Haricot sauce 368 
 
 beans, or coudisoup 306 
 Hartshorn jelly 620 
 
 Hashes, remarks on 48 
 
 Hashed beef 49 
 
 calf’s head 49, 155 
 
 ducks 206 
 
 fowls 191 
 
 goose 210 
 
 hare 222 
 
 heart 49 
 
 lamb’s feet and ears 178 
 mutton 49, 164,165 
 
 partridges and phea¬ 
 sants 228 
 
 sauce for 363 
 turkey 203 
 
 venison 191 
 
 Hasty fritters 447 
 
 pudding 89 
 
 Haunch of mutton to imitate 
 
 venison 16 L 
 
 vension to roast 189 
 to broil 190 
 to hash 191 
 Hazel nuts to preserve 803 
 
 Headacb, remedies for 761 
 
 Head, stuffing of, in infants 774 
 Health, rules of 752 
 
 Heart, to dress 20, 62 
 
 stuffing for 381 
 
 Hedgehog, a 494 
 
 Herb pie 73 
 
 sauce 354 
 
 soup 308 
 
 Herbci, to fry 98 
 
 to preserve for winter 
 
824 IN D E X. 
 
 Herbs, to use 111 
 
 Herrings, to bake 260 
 
 to boil 259 
 
 to broil ib. 
 
 to fry ib. 
 
 to dress red 260 
 
 to pot ib. 
 
 to smoke ib. 
 
 Hips and haws, conserve of 625 
 Hoarseness, to relieve 759, 787 
 Hog’s ears, to force ]86 
 
 head,to dress 185 
 
 puddings 398—401 
 
 Holibut, to dress 256 
 
 Home-brewed beer 043 
 
 Honey, balsam of 626 
 
 water 702 
 
 Hooping cough, treatment of 783 
 embrocation for 794 
 
 tincture for 789 
 
 Horses, to extricate, in 
 
 case 
 
 of fire 
 
 806 
 
 Horseradish sauce 
 
 366 
 
 vinegar 
 
 546 
 
 Hot cream 
 
 485 
 
 pint 
 
 641 
 
 Hotch potch 
 
 170,319 
 
 Hottentot’s pie 
 
 461 
 
 House lamb 
 
 173 
 
 forced 
 
 173 
 
 steaks of 
 
 174, 175 
 
 Hangary water 
 
 701 
 
 Hunter’s pudding 
 
 80 
 
 sauce 
 
 369 
 
 Hunting bread 
 
 503 
 
 Hypocras 
 
 659 
 
 Jack or pike to dress 
 
 119 
 
 to boil 
 
 275 
 
 to roast 
 
 275, 281 
 
 to bake, fry, or 
 
 stew 
 
 281 
 
 Jams 
 
 505 
 
 apricot 
 
 507 
 
 and plum 
 
 510 
 
 black currant 
 
 506 
 
 gooseberry 
 
 506,507 
 
 raspberry ' 
 
 505 
 
 strawberry 
 
 606 
 
 Jargonelle pears, to preserve 515 
 
 Ices 
 
 495 
 
 Ice creams 
 
 496 
 
 brown bread 
 
 ib. 
 
 colouring for 
 
 495 
 
 currant 
 
 496 
 
 raspberry 
 
 ib. 
 
 waters 
 
 495 
 
 Icing for a cake . 575 
 
 Jellies ^ 50i, 0)7 
 
 or fruit, (fax keeping) 4 9 
 
 Jellies, currant 502 , 508 
 
 cranberries 504 
 
 gooseberry 6 O 4 
 
 pippins 605 
 
 raspberry 504 
 
 animal, (for present use) 
 pigeons in 213 
 
 Turkey in 204 
 
 stock 298 
 
 blancmange 489, 620 
 calf’s feet 617,619 
 
 Eringo root 621 
 
 Gloucester 619 
 
 hartshorn 620 
 
 isinglass ib. 
 
 ivory dust 622 
 
 jermange 621 
 
 .orange ib. 
 
 sago ib 
 
 strengthening 620 
 
 shank ib. 
 
 Jelly, punch, in moulds ib. 
 
 Jermange 621 
 
 Jerusalem artichokes, to dress 98 
 Jessamine butter 797 
 
 III scent of wines to cure 692 
 
 Imitation of sturgeon 251 
 
 Imperial cream 488 
 
 drink 612 
 
 Indian ink §05 
 
 pickle 53 i 
 
 wheat 539 
 
 Injections 799 
 
 Ink, to make 805 
 
 Indian ib . 
 
 .red ib 
 
 spots, to remove 804 
 
 John dory, to dress 256 
 
 Irish beef 417 
 
 pancakes 445 
 
 stew 326 
 
 Iron, to clear from rust 806 
 
 preserve from rust ib. 
 
 mould, to extract 804 
 
 Isle ot Wight cracknalls 584 
 
 Italian biscuits 570 
 
 cheese 6 00 
 
 puddings 427 
 
 pyramid 472 
 
 sauce 349 
 
 soup 310 
 
 Itch, treatment ot 795 
 
 Judge’s biscuits 579 
 
 Kale, Scotch, to dress 92 
 
 sea 
 
 Kebobbed mutton 170 
 
 Kelly’s garlic sauce 349 
 
 Kent drop cakes 
 
 Kitchen requisites j 
 
I N D E X. 
 
 Page 
 
 Kitchener’s cheap soup 339 
 
 Kidney beans, to pickle 539 
 
 to preserve 111 
 
 Kipper of salmon 239 
 
 Knuckle of veal, to boil 33 
 
 to fry 137 
 
 to ragout 137 
 
 soup 327 
 
 to stew 46 
 
 Lace, to wash 808 
 
 Lady Sunderland’s pudding 439 
 Lamb, to boil 34 
 
 to choose 12 
 
 chops 40, 174 
 
 with cucumbers 172.173 
 Lamb’s feet and ears 178 
 
 fore quarter of 172 
 
 fricassee of 179, 180 
 
 haggis 130 
 
 head 31,175, 176, 177 
 leg and loin 172 
 
 pie (raised) .459 
 
 quarters of, forced 173 
 rump and ears 179,180,181 
 to roast 21 
 
 shoulder of, with 
 
 sorrel 174 
 
 grilled ib. 
 
 steaks 174,175 
 
 sweetbrea 1 178 
 
 Lampreys, to fry 258 
 
 to stew ib. 
 
 Worcester method ib. 
 Larks, to dress 61, 234 
 
 Lavender barley sugar 598 
 
 water 700 
 
 Laws respecting masters and 
 servants 811 
 
 Laxative medicines 784 
 
 Leather, to extract stains 
 
 from 804 
 
 Leavened bread 557 
 
 Leek porridge 107 
 
 soup. 318 
 
 Leg of veal, stuffin , for 381 
 
 Lemon, candied 521 
 
 drink 612 
 
 drops 514 
 
 honey comb 494 
 
 Lemons, to pickle 539 
 
 to preserve 508 
 
 Lemon or orange pudding 430 
 cheese cakes 444 
 
 custard 443 
 
 puffs 467,471 
 
 sauce 359 
 
 syllabub 493 
 
 wine 680 
 
 Lemonade 624,642 
 
 5 
 
 82o 
 
 Page 
 
 Lemonade, portable 64? 
 
 Lentile soup 305 
 
 Lent pudding 428 
 
 Lettuce soup 305 
 
 Leveret, to roast 224 
 
 Light paste 452 
 
 puffs 470 
 
 Lily root poultice 792 
 
 Lime in the eyes, to remove 772 
 Liniment for a burn 771 
 
 soap 795 
 
 Linseed poultice 791 
 
 Linseed tea 611 
 
 Lip glue 809 
 
 salve 796 
 
 Liqueurs, cordials, &c. 695 
 
 Liver and bacon, to fry 41 
 
 pudding 401 
 
 sauce 372 
 
 Lobsters, to boil 261 
 
 buttered 262 
 
 patty 476 
 
 curry of 262 
 
 pie 461 
 
 to pot 262 
 
 to roast ib. 
 
 relish 263 
 
 sauee 375 
 
 soup 313 
 
 to stew 262 
 
 Loin of veal, sauce for 361 
 
 London syllabubs 493 
 
 wigs 564 
 
 Looking glasses, to clean 810 
 
 Looseness in infants 776 
 
 Luncheons 629 
 
 Macaroni cordial 698 
 
 custard pud bn 432 
 
 pudding 434 
 
 soup 337 
 
 timballof 477 
 
 Maccaroons, French 5S8 
 
 Mackare! 114 
 
 to bake 248 
 
 to broil ib. 
 
 in paper 249 
 to collar ib. 
 
 fillets of ib. 
 
 maitre d'hotel ib. 
 
 to pickle 121, 250 
 
 to pot 249 
 
 roe sauce 377 
 
 Magnum bonum plums, to pre¬ 
 serve 510, 517 
 
 Mahogany, to clean 807 
 
 to polish ib. 
 
 German, glors for 808 
 Maids, to dress 25 
 
 Maigre soup 309 
 
 N 
 
820 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Maitre d'hote! sauce 349 
 
 Malt wine, or English sherry 679 
 Marble, to clean 801, 802 
 
 Marigold cheese 712 
 
 Marlborough cake 579 
 
 Marmalade for a cough 625 
 
 orange 510,511 
 
 of pippins 507 
 
 quince 507, 509 
 
 transparent 511 
 
 Marquis’s sauce 370 
 
 Marrow pudding 421 
 
 sauce for 375 
 
 Mast, or winter store 417 
 
 Masters and servants, laws 
 
 concerning 811 
 
 Match to sweeten casks 691 
 
 Matelot sauce 349 
 
 Mead 688 
 
 cowslip 689 
 
 sack 688 
 
 Measles, treatment of 781 
 
 Meat, to boil white 25 
 
 to carve 737 
 
 panada 608 
 
 pies 71 
 
 puddings 77 
 
 to preserve in hot wea¬ 
 ther 801 
 
 in treacle ib. 
 soup 302 
 
 Medicines, domestic, hints on 
 the purchase, preparation, 
 and administration of 783 
 
 Melted butter 346 
 
 Melon mangoes, to pickle 538 
 
 Meneliould sauce 349 
 
 Mice, to destroy 800 
 
 Midcalf, to dress 152 
 
 Mildew, to remove 802 
 
 Mille fruits, cream 486 
 
 Millet seed pudding 429 
 
 Milk, management of 707, 708 
 
 porridge 603, 601 
 
 punch 494 
 
 of roses 798 
 
 soup 334 
 
 Mince pies 75 465 466 
 
 without me 75 
 
 467 
 
 lemon ib. 
 
 pie patties 476 
 
 Minced veal 49 
 
 Mint sauce 368 
 
 tea 613 
 
 ■ Miscellaneous recipes and di¬ 
 rections 796 
 
 v Mittonage 310 
 
 Mock brawn 418 
 
 caper sauce 369 
 
 Mock era fare 264 
 
 turfw 157—160, 321 
 
 forcemeat for 387 
 
 Moor gan\, to hash, to pot, to 
 roast 231 
 
 Mother Eve’s pudding 424 
 
 Mucilage of gum arnbic 611 
 
 Muffins, to make 56f 
 
 pudding 433 
 
 Mulberries, syrup of 623 
 
 Mulled wine 639 
 
 Mullets, to bake, to boil, to 
 
 fry 255 
 
 Mullagatawny soup 321 
 
 Muscles, to ragout 270 
 
 to stew ib 
 
 catsup of 550 
 
 plum cheese 513 
 
 Mushrooms, to pickle 540 
 
 catsup 548 
 
 sauce 364 
 
 Mustard sauce 367 
 
 whey 614 
 
 Musty bottles, to cure 662 
 
 cask 691, 693 
 
 Mutton, to boil 26 
 
 to braise 162 
 
 breast of 27, 165 
 
 broth 27, 301 
 
 to choose 11 
 
 chops 38,167,168 
 
 collops 166 
 
 with cucumbers 162 
 
 to force 161 
 
 harrico 46, 164 
 
 hash 49, 154 
 
 haunch of 161 
 
 hotchpotch 170 
 
 in imitation of venison 161 
 kebobbed 170 
 
 loin, collared, to roast 166 
 
 to stew ib. 
 loin, rolled 165 
 
 neck 26 
 
 pie 72, 171 
 
 to ragout 164 
 
 to roast )9 
 
 rumps and kidneys 46,169 
 saddle 102 
 
 sauce of 343 
 
 shoulder 27 
 
 en epigram 163 
 boiled with 
 oysters ib. 
 hen and 
 chickens 162 
 Turkish way *95 
 
 Nankeen dye $Q 8 
 
 Naples biscuits &07 
 
 k. 
 

 
 INDEX. 
 
 827 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Page 
 
 Naples biscuit drops 
 
 
 5G7 
 
 Orange putfs 
 
 467, 472 
 
 Narcotic poison, antidotes 
 
 
 syrup 
 
 622 
 
 against 
 
 
 768 
 
 Orangeade 
 
 621 
 
 Neatsfoot pudding 
 
 
 425 
 
 Orgeat syrup 
 
 623 
 
 tongue, to bake 
 
 
 131 
 
 Ornamental pastry 
 
 474 
 
 to salt 
 
 
 32 
 
 Ortolans, to dress 
 
 60,234 
 
 to stew 
 
 
 133 
 
 Ox cheek soup 
 
 324 
 
 Nelson’s puddings 
 
 
 428 
 
 to stew 
 
 44. 136 
 
 Net cheese 
 
 
 712 
 
 pie 
 
 ' 437 
 
 New college puddings 
 
 
 423 
 
 head soup 
 
 323 
 
 England, method of salt- 
 
 
 heart, to roast 
 
 20 
 
 ing hams 
 
 
 414 
 
 to hash 
 
 49 
 
 pancakes 
 
 
 446 
 
 to stew 
 
 45 
 
 potatoes, to dress 
 
 
 103 
 
 heel soup 
 
 325 
 
 Night caps 
 
 
 639 
 
 kidneys 
 
 45 
 
 Noddy puddings 
 
 
 429 
 
 tails and palates 
 
 ib. 
 
 Nogar 
 
 
 600 
 
 soup 
 
 324 
 
 Nonpareil sauce 
 
 
 350 
 
 Oxford cakes 
 
 559 
 
 Norfolk dumplings 
 
 
 440 
 
 sausages 
 
 393,394 
 
 puddings or puffs 
 
 
 471 
 
 skates 
 
 396 
 
 punch 
 
 
 697 
 
 Oysters, to brown 
 
 268 
 
 Northumberland puddings 
 
 426 
 
 to feed 
 
 120 
 
 Noyeau 
 
 
 696 
 
 to fricassee 
 
 268 
 
 cream 
 
 
 485 
 
 to fry 
 
 267 
 
 Nun’s cake 
 
 
 579 
 
 loaves 
 
 ib. 
 
 Nut cakes 
 
 
 589 
 
 Oyster mouth soup 
 
 312 
 
 
 
 
 patties 
 
 476 
 
 Oatmeal flummery 
 
 
 490 
 
 pie 
 
 461 
 
 gruel 
 
 
 603 
 
 to pickle 
 
 268 
 
 poultice 
 
 
 792 
 
 powder 
 
 693 
 
 puddings 
 
 
 402 
 
 to ragout 
 
 268 
 
 Oil and ointment for bruises 
 
 793 
 
 sauce 
 
 376 
 
 Old writings, to revive 
 
 
 805 
 
 to scallop 
 
 266 
 
 Olive sauce 
 
 
 359 
 
 to stew 
 
 265,267 
 
 Omelet 
 
 
 636 
 
 
 
 Onions, to boil 
 
 
 96 
 
 Palais royai biscuits 
 
 569 
 
 to brown 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Paint, to clean 
 
 810 
 
 to fry 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Panada 
 
 3S9, 607 
 
 to pickle 
 
 510, 
 
 541 
 
 meat 
 
 6®8 
 
 porridge of 
 
 
 107 
 
 Pancakes 
 
 82, 414 
 
 poultice 
 
 
 791 
 
 Ayres’s 
 
 444 
 
 to preserve 
 
 
 111 
 
 cream 
 
 44a 
 
 roast 
 
 
 97 
 
 Irish 
 
 ib. 
 
 sauce 355, 
 
 356, 
 
 357 
 
 New England • 
 
 446 
 
 soup 
 
 304, 
 
 334 
 
 pink coloured 
 
 ib. 
 
 stew 
 
 
 96 
 
 rice 
 
 445 
 
 Oranges, conserve of 
 
 
 625 
 
 wafer 
 
 ib. 
 
 cheesecakes 
 
 
 444 
 
 pudding 
 
 432 
 
 drink 
 
 
 612 
 
 Paper cement for 
 
 810 
 
 flower cream 
 
 
 484 
 
 grease, to extract from 803, 
 
 fool 
 
 
 488 
 
 
 804 
 
 fritters 
 
 
 449 
 
 hangings, to clean 
 
 810 
 
 gravy sauce tor 
 
 wild 
 
 
 Parsley and butter 
 
 347 
 
 fowl 
 
 357 
 
 358 
 
 to fry 
 
 105 
 
 marmalade 
 
 510 
 
 511 
 
 pie 
 
 71,73, 
 
 peel, to candy 
 
 
 521 
 
 sauce 
 
 3S$- 
 
 to dry 
 
 
 522 
 
 Parsnips, to dress 
 
 164 
 
 prawlings 
 
 598, 
 
 599 
 
 fritters 
 
 448 
 
 to preserve 
 
 
 508 
 
 wine 
 
 680 
 
 pudding 
 
 
 430 
 
 Partridges, to boil 
 
 228 
 
 ta. 
 
828 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Page 
 
 Partridges, to hash 228 
 
 pie 460 
 
 pot 229, 230 
 
 roast 69,227 
 
 stew 228 
 
 with cabbage 229 
 to truss 59 
 
 Pastilla, apple 496 
 
 raspberry ib. 
 
 Pastry, observations on making 63 
 
 76, 419 
 
 Paste, to make 809 
 
 almond 474, 589 
 
 candy 599 
 
 croquante 453 
 
 fan 473 
 
 French 453 
 
 French glazing for 454 
 
 light 452 
 
 ornamental 474 
 
 puff 452 
 
 rich puff 451, 453 
 
 Sandwich 473 
 
 small ditto ib. 
 
 for shaving 797 
 
 for the teeth 796 
 
 thousand leaf ib. 
 
 Pasty of beef or mutton 459 
 
 venison ib. 
 
 Patties 475 I 
 
 beef ib. 
 
 forcemeat for 388 
 
 fried 477 
 
 lobster 476 
 
 minco pie ib. 
 
 oyster ib. 
 
 puff paste 452 
 
 sweet 476 
 
 Turkey 475 
 
 veal and ham ib. 
 
 Pea fowls 234, 720 
 
 Pears, to bake 498 
 
 stew 497 
 
 Perch, to dress 119, 279 
 
 Peas, to boil 92 
 
 porridge of 107 
 
 to preserve green 110 
 
 pudding 90 
 
 to stew 93 
 
 sauce of 365 
 
 soup of(green) 304 
 
 (old) *07 
 
 (green)tart 468 
 
 Pepper cake 581 
 
 pot 326 
 
 Peppermint water 700 
 
 Perry . 694 
 
 Pheasants to boil 227 
 
 pudding 403 
 
 roast 59 
 
 
 
 Pheasants, to roast.French way 227 
 
 stew 
 
 ib. 
 
 truss 
 
 69 
 
 Pickle for brawn 
 
 417 
 
 hams 
 
 411 
 
 tongues 
 
 416 
 
 Pickles, general, remarks 
 
 on 528 
 
 spiced, vinegar for 530 
 
 artichokes 
 
 534 
 
 bottoms 
 
 ib. 
 
 asparagus 
 
 535 
 
 barberries 
 
 504,535 
 
 beet root 
 
 536 
 
 bitter oranges 
 
 ib. 
 
 capsicums 
 
 537 
 
 cauliflower or brocoli ib. 
 
 cloves, carnations, and 
 
 gilliflowers 
 
 535 
 
 cueumbers 
 
 536,538 
 
 elder buds and 
 
 shoots 
 
 538, 539 
 
 French beaus 
 
 439 
 
 Indian pickle 
 
 531 
 
 kidney beans 
 
 539 
 
 lemon 
 
 539 
 
 mushrooms 
 
 540 
 
 melon mangoes 
 
 538 
 
 onions 538, 
 
 ,540, 541 
 
 red cabbage 
 
 541 
 
 samphire 
 
 542 
 
 walnuts 
 
 ib. 
 
 wheat (Indian) 
 
 539 
 
 Pies 
 
 63,451 
 
 fish, sauce for 
 
 378 
 
 forcemeat for 
 
 386 
 
 savory, sauce for 
 
 361 
 
 Pie, apple 
 
 74 
 
 apricot 
 
 ib. 
 
 artichoke 
 
 461 
 
 beef steak 
 
 71,454 
 
 calf’s head 
 
 456 
 
 feet 
 
 ib. 
 
 carp 
 
 462 
 
 cherry 
 
 75 
 
 chicken 
 
 70 
 
 Cheshire pork 
 
 460 
 
 cod or turbot 
 
 462 
 
 critten 
 
 76 
 
 currant 
 
 75 
 
 Dartmouth 
 
 459 
 
 eel 
 
 461 
 
 egg mince 
 
 467 
 
 fish 
 
 463 
 
 French (raised) 
 
 455 
 
 fruit 
 
 74 
 
 giblet 
 
 7tt 
 
 gooseberry 
 
 74 
 
 hare 
 
 460 
 
 herb 
 
 73 
 
 kottentot 
 
 461 
 
INDEX. 
 
 829 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 Page 
 
 e (raised) 
 
 
 72 
 
 Pigeons, pupton of 
 
 217 
 
 Iamb 
 
 
 459 
 
 to ragout 
 
 215 
 
 lemon mince 
 
 
 467 
 
 to roast 
 
 56 
 
 lobster 
 
 
 464 
 
 cn surtout 
 
 215 
 
 mince 75,465, 
 
 466 
 
 soup of 
 
 332 
 
 mutton 
 
 72, 
 
 171 
 
 to stew 
 
 56,211 
 
 ox cheek. 
 
 
 457 
 
 stoved 
 
 216 
 
 oyster 
 
 
 464 
 
 Pike, to dress 
 
 .19 
 
 parsley 
 
 71,73 
 
 to roast 
 
 281 
 
 partridge 
 
 
 469 
 
 stuffing for 
 
 247, 384 
 
 pigeon 
 
 
 69 
 
 Pine apple cream 
 
 482 
 
 pork 
 
 
 72 
 
 with jam ib. 
 
 potatoe 
 
 
 73 
 
 without cream 
 
 483 
 
 rabbit 
 
 
 69 
 
 Pipers, to dress 
 
 255 
 
 rhubarb 
 
 
 75 
 
 Pippin jelly 
 
 505 
 
 rook 
 
 
 73 
 
 marmalade 
 
 507 
 
 salmon 
 
 
 463 
 
 pudding 
 
 440 
 
 shrimp 
 
 
 464 
 
 stewed 
 
 497 
 
 Shropshire 
 
 
 460 
 
 tarts 
 
 468 
 
 sole 
 
 
 463 
 
 Piquante sauce 
 
 367 
 
 squab 
 
 
 73 
 
 Pistachio cream 
 
 483 
 
 sweetbread 
 
 
 457 
 
 Plaice, to dress 113, 
 
 117,261 
 
 trout 
 
 
 463 
 
 Plain cream 
 
 485 
 
 turbot 
 
 
 462 
 
 crisp biscuits 
 
 568 
 
 turnip 
 
 
 73 
 
 currant, or seed cake 574 
 
 veal 
 
 71, 
 
 455 
 
 Plaintain leaves for dressing a 
 
 and ham 
 
 
 455 
 
 blister 
 
 794 
 
 raised 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Plate powder 
 
 803 
 
 vegetable 
 
 
 73 
 
 Plovers, to dress 
 
 60, 234 
 
 vermicelli 
 
 
 465 
 
 Plum buns 
 
 566 
 
 gs, management of 
 
 
 713 
 
 cake (very rich) 
 
 574, 575 
 
 g, (sucking)to barbeca 
 
 
 188 
 
 (less rich) 
 
 575 
 
 collar 
 
 
 187 
 
 puddings (plain) 
 
 SO 
 
 an Pere Duillet 
 
 
 188 
 
 (rich) 
 
 420—424 
 
 Queen Anne’s method 
 
 
 189 
 
 PI nns, to preserve in bottles 524 
 
 roast 
 
 23, 
 
 187 
 
 magnum bonum 
 
 510,517 
 
 sauce for 
 
 
 361 
 
 Poacher’s soup 
 
 329 
 
 seasoning for 
 
 
 381 
 
 Poison, antidotes against 
 
 768 
 
 feet and ears, to dress 
 
 
 186 
 
 Poisade sauce 
 
 350, 367 
 
 12 ’s head, to bake or roast 
 
 24 
 
 Pomade divine 
 
 96, 797 
 
 to boil 
 
 
 35 
 
 Pomatum, hard 
 
 ib. 
 
 to collar 
 
 
 418 
 
 soft 
 
 ib. 
 
 to salt 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Pontiff sauce 
 
 360 
 
 gcons, management of 
 
 
 721 
 
 Poor man’s cake 
 
 573 
 
 artificial 
 
 
 217 
 
 sauce 
 
 357 
 
 to boil 
 
 56, 
 
 210 
 
 Poppy water 
 
 700 
 
 bisk of 
 
 
 216 
 
 Pork, to boil 
 
 35 
 
 to broil 
 
 56, 
 
 210 
 
 a-la-boison 
 
 183 
 
 compote of 
 
 
 214 
 
 to choose 
 
 14 
 
 a la crapaudine 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 chops, to broil 
 
 38 
 
 cutlets of 
 
 
 217 
 
 collared neck 
 
 184 
 
 a la daube 
 
 
 214 
 
 chops, to fry 
 
 40 
 
 fricandeau of 
 
 
 216 
 
 fillet, to dress 
 
 183, 184 
 
 fricassee of 
 
 
 215 
 
 grisken 
 
 183 
 
 in a hole 
 
 
 211 
 
 to imitate lamb 
 
 184 
 
 j»g 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 kidneys, to dress 
 
 38 
 
 in jelly 
 
 
 213 
 
 leg, m imitation of a goose 1 82 
 
 to pickle 
 
 
 212 
 
 loin, like wild boar 
 
 183 
 
 to pot 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 pies 
 
 72 
 
 pie of 
 
 
 69 
 
 to roast 
 
 24 
 
rso 
 
 E X. 
 
 Page 
 
 Pork, seasoning foi 380 
 
 spring of 184 
 
 Porridge, milk C03, G04 
 
 of leeks, onions, or 
 peas 107 
 
 Portable soup 299 
 
 Portugal cakes 587 
 
 pudding 440 
 
 Posset, ale 615 
 
 brandy ib. 
 
 sack 614 
 
 treacle, or honey ib. 
 
 wine C15 
 
 Potatoes, remarks on 99 
 
 to boil 100 
 
 bread of 557 
 
 to broil 101 
 
 balls 103 
 
 fritters 447 
 
 to fry 101 
 
 to mash ib. 
 
 with onions 102 
 Potatoes, new 103 
 
 pie 73 
 
 pudding 88,89 
 
 to preserve from frost 802 
 to roast 102 
 
 under meat ib. 
 rolls 560 
 
 sauce 365 
 
 to scallop 102 
 
 snow 103 
 
 to steam 100 
 
 Potted cheese 637 
 
 Pot pourri 799 
 
 Poultices 791 
 
 for a bad breast 792 
 
 bread and butter 791 
 
 milk ib. 
 
 water ib. 
 
 fig ib. 
 
 lily root 792 
 
 linseed 791 
 
 oatmeal and vinegar 792 
 onion 791 
 
 Poultry, to choose 50 
 
 to carve 734 
 
 to manage 7 16 
 
 to truss 51 
 
 sauce for 343, 373 
 
 Pound cake 578 
 
 Pounce, to make 805 
 
 Prawlings 598, 599 
 
 Prawns 265, 313 
 
 or cray fish soup 313 
 
 Preserves of fruit, general re- 
 
 marks 499 
 
 apples 516 
 
 red ib. 
 
 dried 498 
 
 
 i 
 
 Preserves, apricots, green 507 
 
 ripe 507,516 
 
 candy 521 
 
 apricot and plum 
 jam 510 
 
 black butter (a cheap 
 preserve) 511 
 
 barberries in bunches 
 
 505, 520 
 beans 526 
 
 bullace 524 
 
 cheap, for puddings 511 
 cherries 508,512,518 
 in bottles 524 
 cucumbers 518,525 
 currants 523 
 
 in bunches 505 
 without sugar 571 
 damsons 509,524 
 
 fruit, green all the 
 year 524 
 
 fresh all the 
 year 525 
 
 gooseberries 505, 506, 
 507, 517, 522, 521 
 grapes 802 
 
 greengages 512 
 
 Jargonelle pears 515 
 lemons 508 
 
 magnum bonum 
 
 plums 510,515,517 
 oranges 5i 8 
 
 plums 509, 524 
 
 quinces or pippins 507 
 raspberries 504, 505 
 
 strawberries 506, 52u, 
 521 
 
 tomata 524, 527 
 
 Preserved fruit puffs 471 
 
 Prune tarts 468 
 
 Prussian soup 315 
 
 Paddings, remarks on 77 
 
 almond 401, 431 
 
 amber 433 
 
 apple 79, 435, 436 
 apricot 435 
 
 Ayres's 422 
 
 baked gooseberry 
 or apple 79 
 
 barley 439 
 
 batter 77 
 
 brandy 441 
 
 bread 84 
 
 (brown) 428 
 
 (rich) 427 
 
 and butter 81 
 butter milk 437 
 
 cabbage 431 
 
 cabinet 433 
 
 carrot 432 
 
i N 1) EX. 831 
 
 Page 
 
 Puddings, Charlotte 437 
 
 cheese 412 
 
 chesnut 441 
 
 citron 439 
 
 cow heel 428 
 
 cowslip 438 
 
 Cray fish 402 
 
 cream 431 
 
 curd 438 
 
 custard 431 
 
 delicious 429 
 
 Duke of Cumber¬ 
 land’s 426 
 
 Dutch 426,428 
 
 French 427 
 
 fruit 437 
 
 George 436 
 
 German 437 
 
 ginger 434 
 
 gooseberry 79,435 
 grateful 425 
 
 green 428 
 
 bean 440 
 
 hasty 89 
 
 hunter’s 80 
 
 Italian 427 
 
 Lady Sunderland’s 439 
 lemon or orange 430 
 lent 428 
 
 macaroni 434 
 
 custard 432 
 marrow 421 
 
 meat 77 
 
 millet seed 429 
 
 mother Eve’s 424 
 
 muffin 433 
 
 neat’s foot 425 
 
 Nelson’s 428 
 
 New College 423 
 
 noddy 429 
 
 Northumberland 426 
 orange 430 
 
 pancake 432 
 
 pease 90 
 
 pippin 440 
 
 plain plum or cur¬ 
 rant 80 
 
 plum (rich) 420 
 
 potatoe 89 
 
 with meat ib. 
 rich ib. 
 
 Portugal 440 
 
 prince of plum ib. 
 
 quaking 426 
 
 quick made 81 
 
 quince 439 
 
 rhubarb 440 
 
 rice 86, 87, 88 
 
 small 430 
 
 rusk 422 
 
 Page 
 
 Puddings, sago 88, 424 
 
 Shelford 81 
 
 shrimp 465 
 
 spinach 438 
 
 suet 83 
 
 tansey 441 
 
 tapioca 88, 431 
 
 transparent 137 
 
 vermicelli 88,434, 465 
 Welsh 436 
 
 Yorkshire 79 
 
 in skins 398 
 
 almond 401. 
 
 black'liog 398 
 
 white hog 400, 
 
 401,402 
 cray fish 402 
 
 French 398, 400 
 liver 401 
 
 oatmeal 402 
 
 pheasant 403 
 
 rabbit ib. 
 
 sweet 402 
 
 Pudding sauce 374, 375 
 
 Puffs, almo d 470 
 
 a 466, 470 
 
 chocolate 471 
 
 curd 470 
 
 German 4U7 
 
 lemon or orange 466, 471 
 light 470 
 
 loaves 558 
 
 Norfolk pudding 471 
 
 orange 466, 471, 472 
 
 preserved fruit 471 
 
 raspberry 468 
 
 sugar 471 
 
 transparent 469 
 
 Punch 640 
 
 common 611 
 
 gin ib. 
 
 Glasgow 640 
 
 milk 494 
 
 Norfolk 697 
 
 jelly in moulds 618 
 
 Quaking pudding 
 
 426 
 
 Quails, to roast 
 
 233 
 
 Queen cakes 
 
 583 
 
 sauce 
 
 554 
 
 soup 
 
 338 
 
 Quick made pudding 
 
 81 
 
 Quince marmalade 
 
 507, 509 
 
 pudding 
 
 439 
 
 Rabbits, management of 
 
 711 
 
 to dress 
 
 5f 
 
 en casserole 
 
 2 ,8 
 
 civette of 
 
 220 
 
 fillets of, larded 
 
 ib. 
 
832 
 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 
 Paea 
 
 Rabbits- to fricassee (white) 
 
 218 
 
 Rice snow balls 
 
 
 47? 
 
 (brown) 
 
 ib. 
 
 and wheat bread 
 
 
 55 6 
 
 en galantine 
 
 
 219 
 
 Ricketty complaints, treatment 
 
 en matelote 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 of 
 
 
 783 
 
 pie of 
 
 
 69 
 
 Ringworms, remedy for 
 
 
 734 
 
 Portuguese way 
 
 219 
 
 Roasting, observations on 
 
 
 10 
 
 to pot 
 
 
 220 
 
 Robart sauce 
 
 352. 353 
 
 pudding 
 
 
 403 
 
 Rock candy 
 
 
 592 
 
 surprised 
 
 
 219 
 
 sugar 
 
 
 600 
 
 Rabbit, Scotch 
 
 
 637 
 
 Rolls, Bath 
 
 
 500 
 
 Welsh 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Duchess 
 
 
 452 
 
 Ragout sauce 
 
 348,368 
 
 French 
 
 
 558 
 
 Rails, to dress 
 
 
 60 
 
 German 
 
 
 559 
 
 Raisin wine 
 
 
 676 
 
 potatoe 
 
 
 560 
 
 with cide 
 
 
 679 
 
 Rook pie 
 
 
 73 
 
 Ramakins 
 
 637,451 
 
 Ropy beer, to cu.tj> 
 
 
 656 
 
 Raspberry brandy 
 
 
 696 
 
 Rose wate’ - 
 
 
 701 
 
 Raspberry cakes 
 
 
 590 
 
 Royal friaeri. 
 
 
 448 
 
 cream 
 
 
 484 
 
 sauce 
 
 J53 
 
 , 360 
 
 flitters 
 
 
 450 
 
 sausages 
 
 
 397 
 
 jam 
 
 
 505 
 
 Ruffs and reeves,, to dress 
 
 
 234 
 
 jelly 
 
 
 504 
 
 Rusks 
 
 
 562 
 
 to preserve whole 
 
 505 
 
 pudding 
 
 
 422 
 
 putfs 
 
 
 468 
 
 
 
 
 vinegar 
 
 
 648 
 
 Sack 
 
 
 639 
 
 wine 
 
 
 682 
 
 posset 
 
 
 614 
 
 and currant wine 
 
 683 
 
 Sage cheese 
 
 
 709 
 
 Ratafia cordial 
 
 695 
 
 696 
 
 and onion sauce 
 
 
 363 
 
 cake 
 
 
 588 
 
 Sago 
 
 
 608 
 
 cream 
 
 
 484 
 
 jelly 
 
 
 621 
 
 Rats, to destroy 
 
 
 800 
 
 pudding 
 
 88, 
 
 434 
 
 Ravigot sauce 
 
 351 
 
 352 
 
 Sally Lunn’s cakes 
 
 
 560 
 
 Red beet roots 
 
 
 103 
 
 Salmagundi 
 
 
 264 
 
 Red cabbage, to stew 
 
 
 99 
 
 Salmon, to boil 
 
 
 115 
 
 to pickle 
 
 
 541 
 
 bake 
 
 
 237 
 
 colouring for sweetmeats 
 
 596 
 
 collar 
 
 
 240 
 
 Red mullets, to dress 
 
 
 255 
 
 crimp 
 
 
 235 
 
 Rheumatism 
 
 763, 
 
 786 
 
 cutlets of 
 
 
 240 
 
 Rhubarb and magnesia 
 
 
 785 
 
 dried, to boil 
 
 
 237 
 
 pie 
 
 
 75 
 
 to dry 
 
 
 236 
 
 pudding 
 
 
 440 
 
 escallop 
 
 
 239 
 
 Rice and apples 
 
 
 478 
 
 fricassee 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 bignets of 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 grill 
 
 
 238 
 
 blancmange 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 kipper 
 
 
 239 
 
 buttered 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 pickle 120, 
 
 121 
 
 cake 
 
 
 581 
 
 pie 
 
 
 466 
 
 casserole of 
 
 
 477 
 
 pot 
 
 
 240 
 
 flummery 
 
 479, 
 
 490 
 
 Salt fish 
 
 
 117 
 
 fritters 
 
 
 447 
 
 haddock 
 
 
 247 
 
 and meat soup 
 
 
 329 
 
 of sorrel (for ink spo*s) 
 
 
 803 
 
 milk 
 
 
 609 
 
 Salting meat 
 
 
 29 
 
 ground ditto 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 ingredients for 
 
 
 406 
 
 pancakes 
 
 
 445 
 
 Salts (medicinal) 
 
 
 784 
 
 puddings 
 
 429, 
 
 430 
 
 Salads, ingredients and p 
 
 e- 
 
 
 baked 
 
 
 87 
 
 parations of 
 
 
 107 
 
 boiled 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 sauce 
 
 
 362 
 
 Dutch 
 
 
 88 
 
 Samphire, to pickle 
 
 
 542 
 
 ground 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 Sandwich pastry 
 
 
 473 
 
 sauce 
 
 
 374 
 
 Savaloys 
 
 
 394 
 
 soap 
 
 
 336 
 
 Savoury, to preserve 
 
 
 526 
 
INDE X. 833 
 
 Pago 
 
 5*i v oy biscuits 570 
 
 cake 5G9 
 
 Savces 345 
 
 admiral’s 373 
 
 anchovy 377 
 
 apple 369 
 
 asparagus 365 
 
 aspic 367 
 
 bechamel 341 
 
 Benton 372 
 
 bread 374 
 
 broil sauce for 363 
 
 caper 366, 36S 
 
 carrot 3 >9 
 
 cauliflower 365 
 
 ceiery 358 
 
 cnevreuil 373 
 
 chervil 366 
 
 cockle 377 
 
 for cold meat 367, 369 
 
 crab ib. 
 
 a-la craster 378 
 
 cucumber 354 
 
 currie 351,370 
 
 custard 374 
 
 Dutch 366 
 
 egg 373 
 
 endive 354 
 
 fennel 347,348 
 
 fish 369,375, 378,379 
 / gravy 344 
 
 pie 378 
 
 flamande 367 
 
 for a fowl 343 
 
 garlic 349, 357, 364, 366 
 German 360 
 
 horseradish 372 
 gooseberry 369 
 
 green 352 
 
 peas 365 
 
 ham 344 
 
 Yiaricot beans 3 8 
 
 for a hare 361 
 
 for a hash 363 
 
 herb 351 
 
 horseradish 366 
 
 hunter’s 369 
 
 Italian 349 
 
 Kelly’s garlic ib. 
 
 lemon 359 
 
 liver 372, 377 
 
 lobster 375 
 
 for loin of veal 361 
 
 mackarel roe 377 
 
 mo'tre d’hotel 319 
 
 tnarqms's 37 0 
 
 fiftatctole 349 
 
 inelted ontter 346 
 
 toenehould 349 
 
 mint S68 
 
 Sauces, mock caper 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 369 
 
 mushroom 
 
 
 364 
 
 mustard 
 
 
 367 
 
 mutton 
 
 
 343 
 
 nonpareil 
 
 
 350 
 
 olive 
 
 
 359 
 
 onion 355. 
 
 , 350. 
 
 , 357 
 
 orange 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 oyster 
 
 
 376 
 
 parsley 
 
 
 35.0 
 
 and buttei 
 
 r 347 
 
 , 318 
 
 pie, savoury 
 
 
 361 
 
 fish 
 
 
 378 
 
 hjg 
 
 
 361 
 
 piqnante 
 
 
 367 
 
 Boivrade 
 
 150, 
 
 ,367 
 
 pontiff 
 
 
 360 
 
 poor man’s 
 
 
 357 
 
 potatoe 
 
 
 365 
 
 poultry 
 
 
 343 
 
 and game 
 
 
 373 
 
 pudding 
 
 374, 
 
 375 
 
 queen 
 
 
 354 
 
 ragout 348, 
 
 350, 
 
 368 
 
 ravigote 
 
 351, 
 
 352 
 
 rice 
 
 
 374 
 
 Robart 
 
 352, 
 
 , 353 
 
 royal 
 
 353, 
 
 360 
 
 sage and onion 
 
 
 363 
 
 salad 
 
 
 362 
 
 shalot 
 
 
 363 
 
 shrimp 
 
 
 376 
 
 sorrel 
 
 
 854 
 
 Spanish 
 
 348, 
 
 368 
 
 sweet 
 
 
 374 
 
 Tarragon 
 
 
 366 
 
 Tartar 
 
 
 357 
 
 tomata 
 
 
 351 
 
 Tournee 
 
 
 3 ! 1 
 
 truffle 
 
 350, 
 
 365 
 
 for turkey 
 
 
 362 
 
 turnip 
 
 360, 
 
 366 
 
 truffle 
 
 
 365 
 
 venison, old 
 
 
 371 
 
 sharp 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 sweet 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 wine 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 white 
 
 
 372 
 
 for wild fovvl 
 
 
 ib. 
 
 wow wow 
 
 
 362 
 
 Sausages 
 
 392, 
 
 395 
 
 beef 
 
 
 393 
 
 Bologna 
 
 395, 
 
 397 
 
 cervelas 
 
 
 394 
 
 Bpping 
 
 
 391 
 
 French smoked 
 
 
 398 
 
 German 
 
 
 395 
 
 meat 
 
 
 392 
 
 mutton 
 
 
 398 
 
 Oxford 393, 
 
 391, 
 
 30 
 
83-1 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Page 
 
 Sausages, royal 399 
 
 savaloys 391 
 
 smoked, Scotch ib. 
 
 in skins 395 
 
 without skins 390 
 
 veal 393 
 
 Scalds, treatment of 771 
 
 Scarlet fever, treatment of 782 
 Scarlet or velvet, to extract 
 spots from 803, 804 
 
 Scorbutic humours, treatment of 764 
 Scotch broth 316 
 
 with meat 317 
 
 eggs 635 
 
 half peck bun 566 
 
 rabbit 637 
 
 sausages 394 
 
 short bread 578 
 
 Scouring balls 803 
 
 Seasoning for duck, goose, or 
 
 pork 380 
 
 Seed buns 566 
 
 Seed cakes 579, 580, 581 
 
 Slialot sauce 363 
 
 Shalots, to preserve 111 
 
 Shank broth or jelly 294 
 
 Sheep’s head, to dress 28 
 
 broth 320 
 
 trotters 171 
 
 tongue . ib. 
 
 Shell fish, remarks on 121 
 
 Shelford pudding 81 
 
 Shrewsbury cakes 585 
 
 Shrimp pie 464 
 
 sauce 376 
 
 Shropshire pie 460 
 
 Shrub 698 
 
 Sick head ache, prescription for 786 
 Sickness in infants 774 
 
 Silk, to remove spots from 804 
 
 Size, to make 809 
 
 Skate, to dress 256 
 
 Skimmer cake 88 
 
 Skink, a Scotch soup 319 
 
 Slugs, to prevent 800 
 
 Small pastry 473 
 
 rice puddings 430 
 
 short cake 582 
 
 white cake ib. 
 
 Smelts, to dress 117 ,118 
 
 to pickle 257 
 
 Smoking and keeping meat 407 
 Snipes, to boil 232 
 
 to dress 60 
 
 en surtout 233 
 
 with purslane leaves ib. 
 to roast 232 
 
 Snow cream 498 
 
 Soap, Windsor, to prepare 797 
 essence of ib 
 
 Page 
 
 Soda water 612 
 
 Soles, to boil 116, 252 
 
 to bake 254 
 
 to fry 1 16 
 
 rolled 251 
 
 flavoured 252 
 
 to marinate 254 
 
 pie of 463 
 
 Portuguese way 252 
 
 to stew 253 
 
 stuffing for 252 
 
 Somersetshire syllabub 493 
 
 Sops and ale 642 
 
 Sore throat 760,794 
 
 Sorrel sauce 354 
 
 Soups, general remarks on 284 
 Soup bouillie 316 
 
 brown 325 
 
 brumoise 311 
 
 cabbage 306 
 
 calf’s head 331 
 
 carrot 303 
 
 celery 338 
 
 cheap 339 
 
 chesnut 306 
 
 condi ib. 
 
 cressy 308 
 
 crust 310 
 
 eel 314 
 
 fish 311 
 
 a-la-Flamande 338 
 
 Flemish 307 
 
 flounders 315 
 
 a-la-fourchette 316 
 
 fowl and rice 336 
 
 French stock 297 
 
 friar’s chicken 332 
 
 game 302 
 
 giblet 327 
 
 gravy 302 
 
 green peas 105, 304 
 
 grilled crusts for 310 
 
 hare *224,330 
 
 haricot 306 
 
 Italian 310 
 
 Kitchener’s cheap 339 
 
 knuckle of veal *■ 327 
 
 leek 818 
 
 lentil 305 
 
 lettuce 
 
 lobster 
 
 macaroni 
 
 maigre 
 
 meat 
 
 milk 
 
 mittonage or crust 
 mock turtle 
 mulligatawney 
 onion 
 ox head 
 
 ib. 
 
 813 
 
 337 
 
 309 
 302 
 331 
 
 310 
 321,331 
 
 ib. 
 
 S04, 335 
 823, 324 
 
INDEX. 
 
 8J5 
 
 Ta?e 
 
 Soup, OX heel «2o 
 
 tail 324 
 
 oyster 311 
 
 mouth 312 
 
 uease 307 
 
 pigeon 332 
 
 poaeher’s 329 
 
 portable 299—SOI 
 
 prawn or cray fish 313 
 
 Prussian 315 
 
 queen’s 338 
 
 rice 336 
 
 and meat 329 
 
 spring vegetables 308,311 
 a-la-sap 308 
 
 spinach 304, 311 
 
 ' tornata 308 
 
 turnip 335 
 
 vegetable 303 
 
 vermicelli 337 
 
 white 332 
 
 Spanish cream 486 
 
 sauce S68 
 
 syllabub 492 
 
 Spinach, to dress 95 
 
 juice for colouring 311 
 pudding 438 
 
 soup 304, 311 
 
 Spots, to remove from carpets, 
 
 leather, paper, &c. 803, 804 
 
 Sponge biscuits 569 
 
 cakes 508 
 
 Sprains, treatment of 774 
 
 Sprats 118,261 
 
 Spring vegetable soup 308 
 
 Spruce beer 661 
 
 Squab pie 72 
 
 Staffordshire syllabub 493 
 
 Steel, to preserve from rust 806 
 to clear from rust ib. 
 
 Steeple cream 486 
 
 Stewing, remarks on 42 
 
 Stews, beef 42, 43, 125—128 
 Irish 326 
 
 mock turtle 157 
 
 mutton 166, 167 
 
 neat’s tongue 133 
 
 ox cheek 44 
 
 heart 45 
 
 kidneys ib. 
 
 tails and palates 45 
 
 soles 253 
 
 trout 245 
 
 turkey 203 
 
 veal 48, 141 
 
 venison 190 
 
 Stilton cheese 7 41 
 
 Sting, remedies for 771, 772 
 
 •Stock for gravy or soup 
 
 brown 295 
 
 Stock fish Sul 
 
 jelly . 298 
 
 white 297, 298 
 
 Strawberry fritters 450 
 
 jam 506 
 
 Strawberries, to preserve 520, 521 
 Strengthening medicines 78S 
 
 drink for chil¬ 
 dren 617 
 
 Stucco, colours 808 
 
 Sturgeon, to pickle 123, 251 
 
 to roast 250 
 
 imitation of 251 
 
 Stuffings, chesnut 381,382 
 
 for fowls or meat 386 
 
 for haddock 247, 384 
 for hare 383 
 
 for heart 381 
 
 seasonings and force¬ 
 meat 379 
 
 for turkey 381, 382 
 
 turtle 386 
 
 veal 385 
 
 Suet pudding 83 
 
 Sugar, caramel 597 
 
 catsup for browning 550 
 to clarify 501 
 
 puffs 471 
 
 tea cakes 585 
 
 Sulphur, useful in extracting 
 
 stains 803 
 
 Suppers, arrangements for 730 
 
 Swallowing a wasp, remedy 
 
 for 772 
 
 Sweetbread pie 457 
 
 Sweetmeats 595 
 
 tarts 472 
 
 Sweet pot 799 
 
 Sw'eet puddings, in skins 402 
 
 Syllabubs 491 
 
 cream 492 
 
 Devonshire junket 493 
 everlasting or solid 194 
 hedgehog ib. 
 
 lemon 493 
 
 lemon honeycomb 494 
 London 493 
 
 Somersetshire ib. 
 
 Spanish 492 
 
 Staffordshire 493 
 
 whipped 492 
 
 Syrup of cream 708 
 
 balsam of honey 626 
 
 capillaire 622 
 
 cloves 623 
 
 laxative 785 
 
 malt 787 
 
 mulberry 623 
 
 orange 622 
 
 orgeat 623 
 
836 INDEX. 
 
 
 Pae;e 
 
 Syrup, vegetable 
 
 781 
 
 Table arrangements, order of 728 
 
 Tamarind cream 
 
 485 
 
 Tansey fritters 
 
 450 
 
 pndding 
 
 441 
 
 Tapioca 
 
 609 
 
 pudding 
 
 434 
 
 Tarragon sauce 
 
 366 
 
 vinegar 
 
 546 
 
 Tartar sauce 
 
 357 
 
 Tarts, almond 
 
 469 
 
 angelica 
 
 ib. 
 
 chocolate 
 
 ib. 
 
 cranberry 
 
 467 
 
 French 
 
 468 
 
 green pea 
 
 ib. 
 
 pippin 
 
 ib. 
 
 prune 
 
 ib. 
 
 tart de moi 
 
 469 
 
 tartlets stringed 
 
 472 
 
 to turn out 474 
 
 Tea, to make 
 
 629 
 
 cream 
 
 483 
 
 Tench, to boil 
 
 278 
 
 to fry- 
 
 ib. 
 
 in wine 
 
 ib. 
 
 Teething children, management 
 
 of 
 
 776 
 
 Thieves vinegar 
 
 547 
 
 Thornback, to dress 
 
 256 
 
 Thousand leaf pastry 
 
 473 
 
 Thrush, treatment of 
 
 773 
 
 Timbali of macaroni 
 
 477 
 
 Tin covers, to clean 
 
 811 
 
 Tinctures 
 
 
 aromatic 
 
 698 
 
 bark 
 
 790 
 
 ginger 
 
 
 hooping cough, 
 
 for 789 
 
 of senna 
 
 ib. 
 
 Toast 
 
 634 
 
 and water 
 
 611 
 
 cheese 
 
 636, 637 
 
 Toddy, buttered 
 
 639 
 
 Teinata sauce 
 
 351 
 
 soup 
 
 308 
 
 Tomatas, to preserve 
 
 524, 527 
 
 Tooth ache, remedies for 
 
 763 
 
 paste 
 
 796 
 
 powder 
 
 ib. 
 
 Transparent pudding 
 
 437 
 
 puffs 
 
 469 
 
 Treacle beer 
 
 660 
 
 vinegar 
 
 544 
 
 Trifle 
 
 487 
 
 Tripe 
 
 31 
 
 Trout, to broil 
 
 244 
 
 fry 
 
 245 
 
 stew 
 
 215, 283 
 
 _ . 
 
 Trout pie 45*3 
 
 Truffle sauce $&§ 
 
 Tunbridge cakes 588 
 
 Turbot, to dress H 4 
 
 pie 462 
 
 Turkeys, management ©f 7 i 8 
 to boii 55 
 
 blanquet of 204 
 
 hashed 208 
 
 in jelly 204 
 
 larded 202 
 
 pulled - ib. 
 
 to re-warm 203 
 
 to roast 55 
 
 sauce for 362 
 
 seasoning for 381 
 
 with chesnuts 380 
 stewed 203 
 
 with truffles 202 
 Turnip greens 93 
 
 Turnips 104 
 
 mashed 105 
 
 pie 73 
 
 sauce 360, 366 
 
 soup 335 
 
 Turtle, seasoning for 386 
 
 Twelfth cake, a rich 576 
 
 Veal, to boil 33 
 
 braised neck of 146 
 
 breast of 48 
 
 porcupine 144 
 
 to ragout 142 
 
 to roast ib. 
 
 rolled 144 
 
 stew 142 
 
 cakes 152, 391 
 
 to choose 13 
 
 collops 138,139,140 
 
 cold, ragout of 118 
 
 cutlets ' 40, 138, 139 
 
 a-la-daube 147 
 
 fillet of, stewed 141 
 
 with collops ib. 
 
 florendine 149 
 
 fricandeau of 146 
 
 harrico 149 
 
 j»g 151 
 
 kindey, to dress ib. 
 
 knuckle, to fry _ 137 
 
 to ragout ib, 
 
 to stew 43 
 
 leg of, bombarded 1S2 
 
 disguised 137 
 
 loin in epigram 147 
 
 to marble ifo 
 
 minced 49 
 
 olives 150 
 
 pie tO, 71,455 
 
 pillau of 145 
 

 IN DEX. 
 
 
 837 
 
 
 Page 
 
 
 • 
 
 Pape 
 
 to pot 
 
 151 
 
 Venison, 
 
 shoulder of, to stew 
 
 190 
 
 t® roast 
 
 21 
 
 Verjuice 
 
 
 5-45 
 
 rolls 
 
 148 
 
 Vermin, 
 
 to destroy 
 
 799 
 
 sausages 
 
 393 
 
 Vermicelli pie 
 
 465 
 
 savory dish of 
 
 115 
 
 
 pudding 
 
 434 
 
 scrag of 
 
 48 
 
 
 *oup 
 
 837 
 
 stuffing for 
 
 385 
 
 Vinegars 
 
 513 
 
 sweetbreads, to dress 
 
 151 
 
 
 camp 546 
 
 80s> 
 
 tables, remarks on dressin 
 
 g9l 
 
 
 celery, cress, or cu¬ 
 
 
 French method of 
 
 
 
 cumbers 
 
 547 
 
 preserving 
 
 525 
 
 
 Chili 
 
 546 
 
 angelica 
 
 409 
 
 
 cyder 
 
 541 
 
 526,534, 535 
 asparagus 94, 305,526 
 beans 94 
 
 beet, red 103 
 
 white 95 
 
 brocoli 94 
 
 cabbage 92,111, 541 
 carrots 104, 432 
 
 cauliflowers 91 
 
 celery 98 
 
 coleworts 92 
 
 cucumbers 98, 518,525 
 endive 107, 354 
 
 French beans 93, 110, 
 524, 525 
 
 gourd (or vegetable 
 marrow) 95 
 
 green peas 92, 105, 
 107,110 
 herbs, to fry 98 
 
 Jerusalem artichokes98 
 lettuce 107 
 
 onions 96,107,111, 
 304, 334, 355,356, 357, 
 540,541 
 
 parsley 
 parsnips 
 potatoes 
 
 red cabbage 
 salad herbs 
 spinach 
 turnips 
 tin nip greens 
 pie 
 soup 
 
 Velvet, to remove stains from 
 
 Venomous bite, to cure 
 
 Venison, to boil 
 to collar 
 to fry 
 to hash 
 
 hauneli, to roast 
 to keep 
 to uaarinate 
 to pot 
 a for 
 
 curry 
 garlic or shalot 
 gooseberry 
 horseradish 
 raisin 
 raspberry 
 spiced 
 sugar 
 Tarragon 
 thieves 
 treacle 
 
 Usquebaugh 
 
 516 
 
 544 
 
 546 
 
 544 
 518 
 
 530,547 
 
 545 
 
 546 
 
 547 
 541 
 
 697 
 
 105 
 104 
 99, 103 
 99 
 107 
 95 
 
 104,105 
 93 
 73 
 304 
 803, 
 804 
 771 
 
 190 
 192 
 
 191 
 ib. 
 
 189 
 ib. 
 
 192 
 ib. 
 
 . 371. 
 
 342 
 
 Wafer pancakes 445 
 
 Walnut catsup 549 
 
 Walnuts, to pickle 542 
 
 Walton’s directions for dressing 
 fish 280 
 
 Wash balls 798 
 
 for the skin ib. 
 
 Wasps, to destroy bOO 
 
 Wasp swallowed, remedy for 772 
 Water, to purify 802 
 
 pipes, to prevent freez¬ 
 ing 802 
 
 angelica 701 
 
 apple 611 
 
 bailey 610 
 
 black cherry 700 
 
 cinnamon 701 
 
 honey 702 
 
 Hungary 701, 799 
 
 imperial 702 
 
 lavender 700 
 
 orange and lemon 701 
 
 peppermint ib. 
 
 poppy 700 
 
 rose 701 
 
 Wax spots, to remove from 
 
 velvet 804 
 
 Welsh pudding 436 
 
 rabbit 637 
 
 Wheeler, SirCbarles, his remedy 
 for scrofula 795 
 
 Whey 613 
 
 ale 613 
 
 brandy £&• 
 
 e 
 
8J8 IN 
 
 Page 
 
 Whey, curds and 708 
 
 mustard 614 
 
 Whipped syllabub 492 
 
 W hite wine whey 613, 615 
 
 beet 95 
 
 caudle 604 
 
 sauce 341, 372 
 
 soups 332 
 
 Whiting, to broil 247 
 
 to dress 116 
 
 Whitlow 772 
 
 Wild fowl, to dress 60 
 
 sauce for 372 
 
 Windsor soap 797 
 
 Windows, creaking to cure 811 
 
 Wines, British 664 
 
 apricot 674 
 
 blackberry 690 
 
 black cherry ib. 
 
 currant 670,684 
 birch 691 
 
 cherry 672,690 
 
 clary 687 
 
 cowslip 673, 685 
 
 currant 668, 071, 683 
 damson 689 
 
 elder berry 670, 687 
 
 flower 688 
 
 English sherry 679 
 
 finings for 693 
 
 ginger 673, 684 
 
 grape 669, 671, 680 
 
 gooseberry 665, 667, 682 
 
 Omitted in the 
 Bacon, to boil 35 
 
 Bees, management of 722 
 
 Black di esses, to remove stains 
 from 811 
 
 Bread and butter 634 
 
 Calf’s or lambs livers, to dress 41 
 Caramel sugar * 597 
 
 , Carving, directions for ' " 731 
 
 Cheese, roasted 636, 637 
 
 Cold feet, remedy against 7.61 
 
 Cookery for the sick 602 
 
 Corns, remedy foi 795 
 
 Cramp, cure for 772 
 
 Cream, to scald 7 07 
 
 Curing meat, directions for 405 
 Cutaneous eruptions, treatment 
 of 780 
 
 EX. 
 
 Win ;s, ill scent of, to cure 692 
 lemon 680 
 
 malt 679 
 
 mixed fruit 672 
 
 mulberry ib. 
 
 orange 674 
 
 parsnips 680 
 
 raisin 676, 679 
 
 raspberry 672, 682,683 
 vine leaves and tendrils 669 
 to prevent turning acid 693 
 to restore 692 
 
 posset 615 
 
 ropy, to cure 693 
 
 to sweeten 692 
 
 Wood, cement for 810 
 
 Woodcooks, to boil 232 
 
 en surtout 233 
 
 with purslane ib. 
 
 roast 232 
 
 Woollen, to remove spots from 804 
 Worms, treatment for 7S0 
 
 Wounds 7C9 
 
 Wow wow sauce 362 
 
 Yeast dumplings 9) 
 
 to preserve 66L 
 
 Yellow colouring for sweet¬ 
 meats 506 
 
 dye 800 
 
 Yorkshire cakes 55 ) 
 
 pudding T9 
 
 proper Places. 
 
 Eggs, to preserve 720 
 
 Emollient decoction 611 
 
 Gargles 760 
 
 Garlic, use of, for destroying 
 
 vermin 70S 
 
 Geraniums, to preserve, in 
 winter 811 
 
 Gravel or stranguary, recipe 
 
 for 790 
 
 Guinea fowl, management of 721 
 Harness, to clean 807 
 
 Macaroni 638 
 
 Millet milk 610 
 
 Oppression of the chest, to 
 
 relieve 774 
 
 Piles, remedies for 766 
 
 Pink die 808 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 Biscuit powder 
 Bread pap 
 
 FOOD FOR INFANTS. 
 
 813 j Flour pap 813 
 
 ib. I Rusks, or tops and bottoms ib. 
 
 1. T. Hinton, Pri*- Warwick Square- 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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