f v///v // ////, >yw /// •mcmd. TOPOGRAPHY OF ATHENS. LONDON: TRINrtU BY THOMAS DAVISON, VVHITEIKIAKS. ' m I THE TOPOGRAPHY OF ATHENS WITH SOME REMARKS ON ITS ANTIQUITIES BY LIEUT.-COL. W. M. LEAKE R.A. LL.D. RR.S. MEMBER OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY OF SCIENCES AT BERLIN. JOHN MURRAY LONDON MDCCCXXI. CONTENTS. Introduction Page i SECTION I. The Description of Athens by Pausanias ... 1 SECTION II. Of the Positions and existing Monuments of ancient Athens, concerning the Identity of which there can be little or no Doubt *36 SECTION III. Of Mounts Anchesmus and Lycabettus. — Of Dipylum and the Peiraic Gate 68 SECTION IV. First Part of the Route of Pausanias. — From the Stoa Basi- leius to Enneacrunus .... 98 SECTION V. Second Part of the Route of Pausanias. — From the Stoa Basileius to the Prytaneium . . . .117 SECTION VI. Third Part of the Route of Pausanias. — From the Pryta- neium to the Stadium 134 CONTENTS. SECTION VII. Fourth Part of the Route of Pausanias. — From the Pryta- neium to the Propylaea of the Acropolis . Page 153 SECTION VIII. Fifth and last Part of the Description of Pausanias. — The Acropolis, Areiopagus, and Academy . .176 SECTION IX. Of Peiraeeus, Munychia, and Phalerum. — Of the Long Walls, and other Fortifications of the City . 300 ERRATA. Page xxxii, line 2, for Csesareia Philippi, read Caesareia Stratonis. lv, line \,for The spirit of tolerance, read By the spirit of tolerance, lxii, note, line 4, for the preceding note, read a preceding note. 12, line 1, insert in the margin, Cap. 11. 12, line 2, insert in the margin, Cap. 14. 1 6, line 1 1 , insert in the margin, Cap. 1 7- 24, line 18, for rivers of Athens, read rivers of the Athenians. 25, line 2 1, for quarries of Pentelicum, read quarry at Pen tele. 34, line 14, for JEnobius, read CEnobius. 84, line 15, for CEgaleos, read JEgaleos. 117, &c.for Psecile, read Pcecile. 145, note 2, for See page 16, read See page 25. 157, note I, for See page 17, read See page 26. 161, note I, for See page 18, read See page 27. 169, note 2, line I, for Ttiv, read Trjv. 192, line 2, for 1656, read 1676. 266, line \,for Iwara-arai, read ims-farm. 273, note I, for See Section 1, read See Introduction, p. xxxvi. 3 14, for Plutarch, &c. read Diodorus Cosmographus apud Plutarch, &c. 400, line 7, for Panhelleneium, read Panhellenium. %* The reader will find^two ancient coins of Athens, referred to in several passages of this volume, as being in the title-page. It has been found ne- cessary, instead of inserting them in the title, to place them upon a separate paper, to face the title. INTRODUCTION AS inquiries into the topography and an- tiquities of Athens require a frequent reference to the primeval history of the Athenians, and to their mythology, which differed in many re- spects from that of the rest of Greece, it is intended, in a few preliminary pages, to recall to the reader's recollection those parts of the history of Athens, whether real or fabulous, which are most necessary to the elucidation of its topography and antiquities. The remainder of this Introduction will be devoted to a rapid view of the progressive ruin of ancient Athens, and of those monuments of art, which were its peculiar distinction. There can be no stronger proof of the early civilization of Athens than the remote period to which its history is carried in a clear and consistent series. We have some reason to be- lieve that Cecrops, an Egyptian, who brought from Sais the worship of Neith (by the Athenians b ii INTRODUCTION. called AOijVij), was contemporary with Moses. It is probable that, even before that time, the worship of Jupiter had been introduced into Athens from Crete. The rock of the Acropolis, which at that early period contained all the habitations of the Athenians, received from Cecrops the name of Cecropia. Among the successors of Cecrops, those whose names have been chiefly recorded in Athenian tradition are, 1. Amphictyon, son of Deucalion of Thessaly, who is said to have suc- ceeded to the throne in right of his wife Atthis, daughter of Cranaus, a native Athenian, who succeeded Cecrops. 2. Erechtheus the first, who, by later writers, is called Erichthonius 1 . He set up an image of Minerva, made of olive wood, in the Cecropia, and instituted festivals, called Athenaea, in the Attic cities, which were then twelve in number. Erechtheus was fabled to have been the son of Neptune and of the Earth, to have been educated by Minerva, to have been her assistant in the invention of war- 1 In reconciling the authorities, relating to the ancient history of Athens, it is a very important preliminary to esta- blish the identity of Erichthonius with Erechtheus the first. For this purpose it is sufficient to compare Homer (II. (3. v. 552.) and Herodotus (1. 8. c. 55.) with Apollodorus, (1. 3. c. 14.) Lucian, (in Philopseud.) Pausanias, (Attic, c. 2. 18.) and Aristides the Sophist, (in Minerv. et in Panathen.) INTRODUCTION. ill horses and chariots, and to have been buried in the temple which he had dedicated to her in Cecropia, and which, from the circumstance of his interment in it, was to the latest period called the Erechtheium. 8. Pandion the first. In his reign lived Triptolemus, who was sup- posed to have been instructed in the arts of agriculture by Ceres, and to have instituted the Eleusinian mysteries. 4. Erechtheus the second. He colonized a part of Eubcea, and defeated Eumolpus, who, with a body of Thracians, h ad- seized Eleusis ; but he was slain in the action. The daughters of Erechtheus devoted them- selves to death, that their father might obtain success in the Eleusinian war 1 . About the same time the daughters of Leos were sacrificed, to avert a contagious sickness, in obedience to the Delphic oracle, which required human sa- crifices upon this occasion 2 . These and similar remains of barbarism appear from Homer to have prevailed among the Greeks as late as the time of the Trojan war. 5. iEgeus, who, after the direct succession had been considerably disturbed by the collateral branches, recovered the throne, and enjoyed a long reign of thirty- 1 Apollod. 1. 3. c. 15. 2 Aristid. in Panathen. Schol. Thucyd. 1. 1. c. 20. Sui- das in Aewxopiov. iElian. Var. Hist. 1. 12. c. 28. Pausan. Attic, c. 5. Id Q IV INTRODUCTION. nine years. 6. Theseus. In his way to Athens from Troezen, where he had been living in ob- scurity, Theseus cleared the country of the rob- bers who opposed him, and for these brilliant exploits was acknowledged by iEgeus and the Athenians as successor to the throne. He after- wards relieved Athens from a disgraceful tribute to the king of Crete, and, having succeeded to the royal authority, laid the foundation of the early pre-eminence of his country, by founding the Prytaneium, as a court of judicature, common to all Attica, and by establishing the Panathenaea in the Erechtheium, as a sacred festival for the whole province. The immediate .consequence of this change, which occurred about the year 1300 B. C, was the decline of the other eleven Attic cities, a concentration of government in Athens, and a great increase of population in Attica, attracted by the security and justice resulting from the new laws of Theseus. Homer, the earliest of Greek historians, has left us a strong confirmation of the reality of those facts, which are not obviously fabulous, in the history of the two great heroes of ancient Attic story, Erechtheus and Theseus 1 . He Aijfx.ov Egs^Srjos peyaX^rogos, ov ttot 'ASrjvr) ©£>af/e, Aib$ duya,T*)g, fane Sh ^slScu§os" Agovga, Ka W ev 'AQyvyi eicrev, kuj h) tflovi vr/ca' INTRODUCTION. v notices the temple of Erechtheus, and those periodical sacrifices of an ox and a sheep, which we know to have been performed to a very late period of Athenian superstition 1 ; and with re- spect to the political changes of Theseus, instead of naming all the cities of Attica, as he has done in the other provinces of Greece, he speaks of Athens alone, and of the people of Erechtheus, that terrible Ar,po$, whose first specimen of tyranny and ingratitude was the banishment of their great benefactor himself, whom they left to die an exile in the island of Scyrus. Theseus introduced the worship of Venus and Peitho 2 : that of Apollo Delphinius he appears to have found already established 3 . During the six or seven centuries which elapsed between the Trojan war, and the reign of Pisistratus, the Athenians seem to have 'EvQdSe [i,iv tocupoitn kou dgvsiols Ixdovitcu Kovgoi 'AQyvulw, m§ ireXXo psvovv kviawttav II. B. v. 546. Another allusion to theErechtheium occurs in the Odyssey, H. v. 78. aVefirj yAaoxw7rt; 'A^vrj *********** "lueto & £$ MaoaSwVa xa» svgvdyuixv 'A0)fyijv Avvs $ 'E§s^rjos ifvxivov Sopov. . . . 1 Philochorus et Staphylus ap. Harpocrat. in 'EitlZoiov. * Pausan. Attic, c. 22. 3 Pausan. Attic, c. 19. vi INTRODUCTION. been not more engaged in foreign wars or in- ternal commotions than was sufficient to main- tain their martial spirit and free government, both of which were essential to the progress made by them in civilization, commerce, and a successful cultivation of the arts. The change of chief magistrate from king to decennial, and then to annual archon, indicates that gradual increase of popular authority, which ended in a purely democratical government. Solon, ap- parently aware of the evils to which these changes tended, endeavoured to correct them by enacting that none but men of a certain landed property should be eligible to magi- stracies ; but the restriction was insufficient, or at least came too late. The excess of demo- cratic power led to its usual result ; and Pi- sistratus not only usurped all the functions of government to himself, but made them heredi- tary also in the persons of his two sons, which caused so strong a re-action in favour of de- mocracy, that Cleisthenes, Cimon, and Pericles could only direct affairs by flattering the peo- ple, and adding to their privileges. Hence the lowest classes were made eligible to all offices, and were even paid for attending those multitu- dinous assemblies of the Pnyx and Theatre, which embarrassed all rational business, and threw the fate and character of the country INTRODUCTION. vii into the hands of those who might chance to possess the popular favour. It was in the early part of this interval of times that the Pelasgi, a people of uncertain origin, but who came to Athens from the north- ward, fortified the Acropolis for the Athenians, and obtained a settlement among them. As the Athenians had already built several temples, it would seem that the superior skill which re- commended the Pelasgi to them was chiefly in the branch of military architecture ; and it is not improbable that the Greeks were indebted to these people for that polygonal masonry which distinguishes some of their most ancient works of defence 2 . ' B. C. 1192. Larcher Hist. d'Herod. tome 7- * In this mode of buildings the facing of the wall is entirely formed of large blocks of stones, which are for the most part irregular polygons, but which, however varied they may be in magnitude, or the number of their sides, are carefully fitted to- gether without cement. It has been customary to denominate this kind of masonry Cyclopian ; but without much propriety; for, from an inspection of the walls of Tiryns, which are cited by Pausanias, as the most remarkable Cyclopian work in Greece, as well as from his description of the structure of those walls, it is evident that they were not formed of artificial polygons, such as I have just described, but of rude masses of rock, the interstices of which were filled up with smaller stones; a mode of building essentially different from the beautiful masonry seen at Athens, (in the Pnyx), at Argos, Ambracia, iEniadse, and so many other fortresses in Greece. viu INTRODUCTION. In the course of the same ages, we may sup- pose that several of the Athenian temples were founded or renewed upon a more magnificent plan. It was probably about the eighth century before the Christian aera that the Athenians built the Hecatompedum, or great temple of Minerva, in the Acropolis, which was then ren- dered necessary by the inadequacy of the tem- ple of Minerva Polias to the increased dimen- sions of Athens, and to the multitudes assembled from every part of Greece, by the growing ce- lebrity of the Panathenaic festival. The usurpation 1 of the ambitious, but hu- mane, enlightened, and patriotic Pisistratus, far from being an impediment to the prosperity of Athens, operated in aid of its rapid improve- ment in splendor and civilization, as has often happened when power has fallen into the hands of a person of taste and magnificence. By establishing a public library, and by editing the works of Homer, Pisistratus and his sons fixed the Muses at Athens. Many fine examples of polygonal masonry are also found in Italy, in the ruins of some of the cities, which flourished in independence before the preponderance of Rome, and where this mode of building seems to have been introduced by the Pelasgi, or by whatever other Grecian people the Latins were indebted to for their alphabet, and for the ./Eolic dialect of the Greek language, which forms the basis of the Latin. 1 B.C. 561. INTRODUCTION. IX They founded the temple of Apollo Pythius 1 , and began the building of that of Jupiter Olym- pius\ They greatly advanced the dignity of the republic among the states of Greece, by raising each quinquennial revolution of the Panathenaic festival to a footing of equality with the other great assemblies of Greece ; and it was not long after their time that the splen- dor and riches of Athens, by moving the envy and cupidity of the Persians, became one of the causes of the invasion of Attica, which was defeated at Marathon 3 . Hitherto, however, the progress of the useful and ornamental arts had not been greater at Athens than in many other parts of Greece, as at Sicyon, Corinth, iEgina, Argos, Thebes, and Sparta. Still less was she able to bestow that encouragement upon the arts which they received in the opulent republics of Asia ; for, although her territory was more extensive, and her resources already greater than those of any other city of Greece Proper, except Sparta, we are told that, before the invasion of Xerxes, the whole annual revenue of the state did not ex- ceed 130 talents 4 . 1 Thucyd. 1. 6. c. 54. Meurs. Pisist. c. 9. 2 Aristot. Polit. 1. 4. c. 11. Vitruv. proem ip 1. 7. 3 B. C. 490. 4 Demosth. Philip. 4. p. 141. Reiske. This sum was equi- valent at that period to about 300,000/. of our present cur- X INTRODUCTION. It was to an event the most unlikely to produce such a result, that Athens was indebted for a de- gree of internal beauty and splendor, which no other Grecian city ever attained. The king of Persia, in directing against Greece an expedition of a magnitude unparalleled in the operations of one civilized nation against another, made the capture of Athens his principal object. His suc- cess was most fortunate for the Athenians ; for, by forcing them to concentrate all their exer- tions in their fleet, in which they were as su- perior in numbers to each of the other states of Greece as they were in skill to the Persians, it led to their acquiring the chief honours of having obliged Xerxes to return in disgrace to Persia, accompanied with such a degree of in- fluence in Greece, that even the rivals of Athens were under the necessity of giving up to her the future conduct of the war, now become ex- clusively naval. By these means the Athe- nians acquired an unlimited command over the resources of the greater part of the Greek islands, and of the colonies on the coasts of Asia, Macedonia, and Thrace ; and thus, at the very moment when the destruction of their city rendered it necessary for them to renew all » rency. For some remarks on the relative value of the Attic talent at different periods, see the additional Note X. at the end of the volume. INTRODUCTION. xi their principal buildings, fortune gave them the means of indulging their taste and mag- nificence to the utmost extent. The same sources of wealth continued to enrich the re- public during the fifty years which intervened between the victory of Salamis and the Pelo- ponnesian war ; and it was in this short space of time that all the edifices were constructed, which continued to be the chief pride and orna- ment of Attica, until barbarism resumed its reign in Greece. If we follow literally the evidence of Hero- dotus 1 , we must suppose that, after the retreat of the Persians, the Athenians had again to lay out every street in Athens, and that they had to renew every public building from its founda-: tions. But experience shows that an invader, in the temporary possession of an enemy's ca- pital, seldom has the power and leisure for destruction equal to his will ; and that the total annihilation of massy buildings constructed of stone is a work of considerable difficulty 2 . It appears from Pausanias, that there still remained 1 Herod. 1. 9. c. 13. 2 Among several existing ruins which might be named in proof of this observation, there is none more remarkable than Egyptian Thebes, whose magnificent remains, still bearing the marks of the Persian invaders, show, at the same time, how small a progress had been made in their destruction. xii INTRODUCTION. at Athens at a late period several monuments of an age anterior to the Persian war. The remarks of that traveller, upon the temples of Bacchus and of the Dioscuri, and upon the state of the temples of Juno, in the Phaleric road, and of Ceres at Phalerum, can- not be reconciled with the words of Herodotus, unless we take those words in a sense admitting of considerable latitude and exception. It is probable that the vengeance of the Persians was chiefly directed against the works of de- fence, and against the most important of the public buildings. We have reason to believe that they destroyed the great temple of Mi- nerva, in the Acropolis, so completely, that The- mistocles had no scruples in applying the ruins to the repairing of the walls of the Acropolis, while with regard to the Odeium, Erechtheium, Lenseum, Anaceium, and the temples of Venus, and those of Vulcan and Apollo Pythius, the destruction was confined to the roofs and com- bustible parts only ; so that they were probably left, together with a great number of the smaller fanes and heroa, in such a state, that it was not difficult to restore them. The new buildings which rose at Athens in the half century of her highest renown and riches may be divided into those erected under the administrations of Themistocles, of Cimon, INTRODUCTION. xm and of Pericles. Utility appears to have been the sole object of the first of these great men. The private opulence and liberal disposition of Cimon inspired him with views of magnificence, which were completed by Pericles, at the ex- pense of the tributary states. The earliest of the buildings of Cimon was the temple of Theseus. The Pcecile, which was adorned with pictures, executed in part by the same artist who painted the Theseium, seems, from this circumstance, to have been nearly of the same date. TheDionysiac theatre, principally intended to furnish a place of representation for the tragedies of iEschylus, was begun about the same period, although it was not finished until long afterwards. The Stose, the Gymnasia, and the embellishments of the Academy and of the Agora, which Cimon executed in great part at his own expense, were probably the next in order ; and it seems not to have been until after the battle of the Eurymedon 1 that the southern wall of the Acropolis and the Long Walls were built, the expense of these works having been chiefly defrayed out of the Persian spoils 2 . For Pericles was reserved the completion of the military works, which Themistocles had con- 1 B. C. 470. 2 Plutarch in Cimon. XIV INTRODUCTION. ceived, and which Cimon had partly executed. He made considerable progress also in the build- ing of the new Erechtheium ; he constructed some of the Stoae of the Cerameicus ; and pro- bably repaired several of the temples destroyed by the Persians in various parts of Attica. But his great works were the entire construction, from the foundations, of those magnificent build- ings, the mystic temple of Eleusis, the Parthe- non, and the Propylaea ; in all which we are at a loss whether most to admire the rapidity or the perfection of the execution. But the meridian of Athenian prosperity was now passed. The Peloponnesian war gave a sudden check to the great designs of Pericles. The Lacedaemonians, in hostile invasion, were in sight from the walls of Athens ; and during twenty-seven years, the necessities of an army of 32,000 men, and those of a navy of 300 tri- remes 1 , left hardly a drachma disposable for the embellishment of the city. 1 Meurs. de fortuna Athenarum, c. 7. Attic. Lect. 1. 1. c. 1. The public revenue of Athens at this time was partly domestic and partly foreign. The former was chiefly derived from maritime commerce, the markets, the peroixo), or so- journers, the tribunals, and from the silver mines of Lau- rium, the profits of which were first applied to the expenses of the navy by Themistocles, in the ^Eginetic war. The origin of the foreign tribute paid to Athens was the sum INTRODUCTION. XV The command of the seas, which had en- abled the Athenians to cany on the war with glory for so many years, in despite of the im- prudence, inconsistency, and extravagance of assessed by Aristides, after the retreat of Xerxes, upon the cities which did not send ships to join the Athenians in carrying on the war with Persia. This treasure, which was collected at Delus, was called o iff' 'AgurrslSov . : r y:;:ec:::n for more than a century, and exposed herself to ::.-: v r :: : ::; : : . >; ~:«: :r..;". :: R.r.::. ::r- :_r:: r?\ T:.r =i_::i.r. :-.?•; ~±r.:i : : A:..:> r\y:::i 7:-. j.;v- .; twekv jcb, caiei ■ 307 B. C •B.C90O. Lcr ffia.LSl.c-4*v«. INTRODUCTION. -- at once with the destruction of the Peiraic :\::;-. :::::ie by Sybi. A:::i_ it:::: :: :i- i : :i " bi 7 i: : i : : : : : m t : : 7 : : in i : - customed route, and commercial security, which increased as the Roman a lin ii 1 7 i- •bz-i b-V 111 7 17. 7 E71. H1J LlVr E77_ 71771- tained a considerable degree g: wwi l rwrr in Athens; but her gradual downfall as a ma- ritime state was inevitable : and, in less than a century after the siege by Syfla, the Athenian navy was almost extinct, little remained either :: :i7 Pirn:: :: 1 : iti "...:. ii: 777 7 711777777:7 €-77—17771^:71:: 7 :bi57r: :7 ii::::t::i: :: 7771 ei:b ::' :i: 7 ::7E But the respect which the arms or political influence of Athens could no longer command, — 7; 5: 77:7 :: :i: 77: — 7:77:1 :z _t: : :t7t: Z.'.-Tj: 77 177 b: .7 7 Z 771. 77 I Z7 771- 177 7 7 7777 ::li :: !Mi7i7b:z, ilii:E7 7777 e:_7 777:e:::~ :: :b: ; ::-... :-. zzzi -7:77iri7 7 :: 1-7 t7: 7 ■. ill :: it: sibl ::zi7:7iz- :: be .777 ^:bi:l ti mibi :t :: -7771 :bi h:e: -kbfil 177:::: 711 :bi It:: 7:: 71 17:: "5 H H:i::7:77777. E:~7_7 7777. 1771 7 zLzzzizzz. . - bl7 5 717 177717777: - 1- I 7-7777 "IE Z.ZZ 1ZZJ 771 — 17 :b :bl: 777-blZ bli 1 E77:Z^77 7±7I7 i in: ii :i: J. : 171775. ~b:. 77:17 77:7 7777. i 1 Soabo, p. 395. LocaB.Fhnd.LXT.lSl XXU INTRODUCTION. of the conquest of Corinth and Carthage 1 , had applied themselves with a rapidly increasing ardour to Grecian arts and literature, and who, from that time, treated Athens with a filial re- spect and indulgence, which was in a certain degree shown to her even by Sylla himself 2 . Al- though Julius Caesar had to pardon the Athe- nians for their adherence to the adverse party of Pompey, Antony for their having espoused the cause of Brutus and Cassius 3 , and Augus- tus for the favours which they bestowed upon Antony, Athens received distinguished be- nefits from all these mighty Romans. Julius Caesar bestowed some donations upon the city, which contributed to the erection of one of the still existing buildings 4 . Antony made Athens his favourite place of residence, during his fre- quent expeditions into the east; nattered the Athenians, by assuming their manners and mode of life ; and bestowed upon them the islands of 1 Corinth and Carthage were taken and destroyed in the same year, B. C. 146. 102 years afterwards, or B. C. 44, they were both restored and colonized by Julius Caesar, (Appian. in It. Pun. ad fin.) 2 Strabo, p. 398. Appian. Mithrid. c. 38, 39. Plutarch, in Sylla. : > The Athenians erected the statues of Brutus and Cas- sius, by the side of those of Harmodius and Aristogeiton, in the Cerameicus. Dion. Cass. 1. 47. c. 20. * The Propylaeum of the new Agora. Sec the inscriptions upon this monument in Stuart's Ant. of Ath. vol. I. c. 1. INTRODUCTION. xxm iEgina, Cea, Icus, Sciathus, and Peparethus 1 . Augustus indeed showed some degree of resent- ment towards the Athenians for their attachment to his rival, and deprived them of one of the islands, (iEgina) which they had received from Antony 2 , as well as of Eretria in Eubcea; but. his clemency and favourable inclinations to- wards them are sufficiently indicated, by his leaving them in possession of all the other gifts of Antony ; by the pecuniary donations which, added to those given by Caesar, enabled the Athenians to erect the Propylasum of the new Agora ; and even by the edict forbidding their sale of the right of citizenship, by which he showed a respect for their ancient name, which they no longer entertained themselves. We are informed that, a short time before his death, Augustus was called upon to quell a revolt of the Athenians ; but it appears to have been a mere local tumult, which was suppressed as soon as it broke out 3 , and it has not even been noticed by the principal historians of the life of Augustus. We can hardly doubt, from the testimony of Strabo, that, from the time of Sylla, Athens continued to enjoy its own laws, 1 Appian. de Bel. Civ.l. 5. c. 7. a Dion. Cass. 1. 54-. c. 7. 3 'A9ijvaTo» riv vitfj^ef dpsivov stsomv ireTtoiyjcrOai, rotravra, xa) a.vro$ pvyo-fyo-opai. Id. Eliac. poster, c. 1. INTRODUCTION. xxxvii piousness of the subject, and by the reflection that he was at the beginning of a work which treated of the whole of Greece 1 . When it is considered, moreover, that there existed at that time numerous works, descriptive of Athens 3 , we are no longer surprised at the occasional obscurity of his topographical description of the city, or at the brevity with which he has treated of some of its most interesting monuments 3 . Strabo had felt equally oppressed by the magnitude of this part of his subject : he was 1 In the midst of his description of the Acropolis, he checks himself by saying, Ae7 $e [is dv y xair 'oi Tta.vTujv [/.xXutto. ri^cras ravta. td Isgd' stt $s rov$ trXsltr- tovg tdjY sk ttjS 'Ax^OTtoXsws 'AflrjvTjOev [usrsveyKwv. 2 Hist. Nat. 1. 34. c. 7. 3 Hist. Nat. 1. 34. c. 8. xlviii INTRODUCTION. in Greece, was less active or successful in that province than Acratus in Asia 1 . It is not im- probable that the religious veneration, and general respect of the Romans for Athens, which had so long protected it, operated in some measure upon the superstitious mind of Nero himself; for we are told that, when so near as Corinth, he was afraid to visit Athens, because it was the abode of the Furies 2 , whose vengeance he feared for the same crime for which they had tormented Orestes. The strong terms in which Dion Chrysostom alludes to the robberies of Acratus in Asia 3 , and the favours conferred upon Greece by Nero, which Plu- tarch 4 and Pausanias 5 are far from denying, are further reasons for thinking that Asia suffered more than Greece from that monster's passion for collecting statues. But, however numerous the statues taken 1 Per Asiam atque Achaiam, non dona tantum sed simu- lacra numinum abripiebantur, missis in eas provincias,Acrato et Secundo Carinate ; ille libcrtus cuicunque flagitio promp- tus, hie Grseca doctrina ore tenus exercitus, animum bonis artibus non induerat. Tacit. Ann. 1. 15. c. 4-5. 2 Dion Cass. 1. 63. c. 14. 3 "lore yap "Axfarov IxeTvov, 5f t^v OMOV^evrjv a-^aSov a/it surety itecieXQutv rourov %a'f»v xcd p-ijJg xwy.yv Travels (i^sfx,iav. Dion. Chr. ubi sup. 4 In Flamin. 1 Achaic. c. 17. INTRODUCTION. xlix from Greece by Nero, Caligula, and by some of the Romans, who enjoyed uncontrolled power in Greece in the time of the republic, may have been, we have still the undoubted testimony of Pausanias that far the greater part of the most perfect monuments of Grecian skill and genius, remained untouched in the reign of Marcus Au- relius, and that the sanctity of Delphi, Olympia, Epidaurus, Helicon, and of so many other tem- ples both in the cities and sacred groves, still afforded protection to numerous works of Cala- mis, Myron, Phidias, Alcamenes, and the other great masters of ancient sculpture. It was probably somewhat different with re- gard to pictures. In the time of Pausanias there seem to have remained few works of the great masters in this art, with the exception of such as were immoveable from their having been painted on the walls of the public build- ings 1 . This was the most ancient practice; but as in process of time the painters of Greece executed works upon moveable tabulae, easily transported, and intended for sale to persons of every country, the concentration of wealth at Rome attracted the greater part of these works 1 There was a remarkable exception in the Pcecile, where we learn from two letters of Synesius, that the pictures of Polygnotus were painted upon jvav U$ hcrriv aut^v o^dv h ffif dyx.\f/,a. ::.-.. ^./ 2, t.'v-.w;. azitbe 5-,— :i i~\zz :..-_.: i-.r-.:-„. ;_.-y.;.; r.>rrr,v T:,-r^-;>- - = ;. r-U r<07 spsfOK&zrw?' ^jorjtarijo^y&a^. Hist. ConciL toL 7- p- 415. Hie word enow, which among the Pagan Greeks was used for a portrait or resemblance, either in painting or sculpture, became gradually applied in ecclesiastical language to that kind of resemblance only, which was employed as an object of adoration in the churches. With this sense the word has been ba.- iei d:vn :: :be zzaiz: iav, beizg z:^ esc.uiive'.j -~U ------ : - -be i:::_:r5 :: s^.:.: ; . -s-bicb :be Greeii biz^ b: their churches, houses, ships, &c Ixx INTRODUCTION. tribes settled in every part of the country, such monuments ceased even to be considered orna- mental. A few may have been found by those barbarous settlers, and broken or melted by them ; but the greater part had probably been either concealed by the priests during the ope- ration of the imperial decrees against Paganism, in the hopes of more favourable times, which never arrived, or had been buried in the ruins of so many public edifices of all kinds, which fell into disuse, neglect, and destruction, in con- sequence of the impoverished and depopulated state of the country, and in consequence of the new systems of religion and civil government. The state of Greece during the 250 years, which elapsed between the beginning of the thirteenth and the middle of the fifteenth cen- tury, was not favourable to the preservation of any monuments of antiquity, which Athens may have preserved at the beginning of that period. In the melancholy account which Nicetas 1 has left of the melting of the ancient bronzes by the Franks, when they took Constantinople in 1204, we see how totally regardless the an- cestors of some of the most civilized nations of Europe were of the works of the ancient Greeks, and how incapable they were of feeling any 1 Nicetas Choniat, ap. Banduri. Imp. Orient, vol. 1. p. 93. INTRODUCTION. lxxi share of that respect for them, which, together with the ancient language, was still cherished among the Greeks themselves. The account which the same author 1 and others have given of the state of Greece at this time, shows how naturally the country divides itself into small states, ready to contend with each other for boundaries, and such objects of jealousy as usually occur among neighbours. According to the treaty of partition made by the Crusaders after the capture of Constan- tinople, Greece was to be divided between Boniface, Marquis of Montferrat, and the Ve- netians. The latter were to have the Morea and the islands ; the former was to have all the country north of the Isthmus, with Thessalonica for his capital. But the Franks were unable to realise the possession of all their conquests, several districts remaining in the power of independent tribes, or of Greek princes of the imperial fa- milies, or of adventurers who had acquired, and were still able to maintain, their independence by force of arms. Thus Epirus and iEtolia were in the power of John Ducas ; the Vla- khiotes retained Mount Pindus ; and the Greeks of A'grafa, the recesses of the ancient Dolopia. In the Morea, Messenia belonged to the family 1 Nicet. in Balduin. — G. Acropol. Hist. &c. lxxii INTRODUCTION. of Melisseno, who were descendants of a sister of the emperor Alexius Conmcnus the first; Laconia was in the hands of Leon Khamareto, and Corinthia and Argolis in those of Leon Sguro. The Venetians took possession of Candia, and of several other islands, but were not able to make good their claims to any part of the Morea, where two French adven- turers, of the families of Champlite and Ville- hardouin, having made themselves masters of all those parts of the peninsula which were not occupied by the Greeks, established the Frank principality of Achaia. Leon Sguro, who was married to a daughter of the dethroned Greek emperor Alexius, attempted to oppose the ad- vance of the Marquis of Montferrat, at the cele- brated passes of Tempe and Thermopylae), but he was not more successful than the Greeks of old had been against the Persians or the Gauls. His previous conduct, moreover, had been such as to facilitate the success of the Franks ; for, desirous of turning the confusion of the empire to his own aggrandizement, he had attacked Athens, and, failing in an attempt upon the citadel 1 , had injured the town, burnt 1 Nicet. in Bald. c. 2. This circumstance may serve to show that Athens was already reduced nearly to its present dimensions. It appears that Leo's attack was upon the citadel, and that it was made without passing through the INTRODUCTION. lxxiii the farms, and carried away the cattle of the Athenians. He had also taken and ill-treated Thebes, so that no sooner had the Franks made good their passage over Mount (Eta, than they found the Boeotians ready to receive them as masters. Michael Choniates, brother of the historian Nicetas, who had defended Athens against Sguro, was not quite so well pleased to give up his authority to the Marquis ; but rinding that between the two invaders no hope remained, he was content to submit. He was replaced by a Latin bishop sent from Rome, and the duchy of Athens was conferred by the Marquis of Montferrat, as king of Thessalonica, upon the most illustrious of his followers, a Burgundian, named Otho de la Roche. After these conquests, Boniface received the voluntary submission of the inhabitants of Eu- boea, who even constructed a bridge over the Euripus for the passage of his army ; but he was not equally successful in the Mor6a, where town. The citadel, therefore, was no longer surrounded as anciently on every side by the town, but was already unin- habited on one side, which we cannot doubt, was the south, as at present. It seems also that the city was but slightly provided with means of defence ; and we know that, until the Albanian invasion in 1770, the city itself had no other protection than such as was afforded by the junction of the outer houses, with a few gates and loop-holes. lxxiv INTRODUCTION. he laid an ineffectual siege to the Acrocorinthus and Nauplia. For a particular account of the revolutions of Greece, during the two centuries which followed the Latin conquest of Constantinople, I must refer the reader to the history of Constantinople under the French emperors, by the diligent and accurate Du Cange. The fate of Athens itself during the same period, may be comprised in a few lines. The recovery of Constantinople by Michael Palaeologus, in 1261, was preceded and followed by the expulsion of the Franks from many parts of Greece. Macedonia and Thessaly were again united to the imperial city, and the Greeks re- covered several places in the Morea; but their possession of the latter was only temporary, and in general the provinces of southern Greece continued to be divided between the Greeks and Franks nearly in the same proportions, which had been established after the Latin con- quest of Constantinople. The Despotate of the West, and all the southern parts of the Mor^a, remained in the hands of Greek princes. The rest of Greece, including the islands, continued to be occupied by Frank chieftains, the fluctuation of whose politics depended upon the influence of the popes and of the kings of Naples, and still more upon the two great naval powers, the Ve- INTRODUCTION. lxxv netians and Genoese. It was the fate of Athens never to revert to the Greeks, but to be a Frank principality, from the year 1204, until, in the middle of the fifteenth century, it was absorbed into the Turkish empire. It is to this long re- sidence of foreigners, that we are to ascribe some peculiarities in the Attic dialect of mo- dern Greek, found in no other parts of Greece, except in the islands, which have been under Frank dominion for an equal space of time. The family of La Roche enjoyed the duke- dom of Athens, which included Attica, Bceotia, and parts of Phocis and Euboea, for about the same period as the French remained in posses- sion of Constantinople. It then fell to Walter de Brienne, who married the heiress of La Roche. His son Walter, by means of his Frank mer- cenaries, who were chiefly Catalans, enlarged the boundaries of the duchy, and took Corinth, Argos, and some other fortresses, from the Greek princes of the Mor6a. The successes of Walter, however, led to his ruin ; for, unable to satisfy all his greedy ad- venturers of Catalonia, he came at length to an open quarrel with them, and lost his duchy and his life in a battle on the banks of the lake Co- pais in Bceotia 1 . The Catalans chose Roger 1 A. D. 1311. lxxvi INTRODUCTION. Deslau, one of their prisoners, for their duke, and from Athens, as their principal fortress, made some conquests from the Despot of the West, particularly Neopatra, (the ancient Hypata,) at the northern foot of Mount (Eta, which con- tinued to be the chief bulwark of the duchy to the northward, until this city, together with all Thessaly, and the vale of the Spercheius, fell into the hands of the Turks. The Catalans were prevented from making any further advances in this direction by the Albanians. On the death of Roger Deslau, the fortresses in the Mor£a falling off from the rest of the alliance, and the Catalans being again at a loss for a leader of sufficient talents and influence to preserve order and union among the different chieftains, each of whom was in possession of his castle and small district, they came to the determination of placing the duchy under the protection of the house of Arragon l . Hence, for the next sixty years Attica, Bceotia, Phocis, and the valley of the Spercheius, were generally an appanage of the younger branches of the royal family of Sicily. The duchy of Athens, and Neopatra, (as it was then called) was go- verned by deputies, who resided at Athens, and who administered the duchy in the name of the Sicilian prince. At the end of this period it 1 A. D. 1326. INTRODUCTION. lxxvii fell into the hands of the Florentine family of Acciajuoli. The first of these was Nerio, or Renerio, ne- phew of Nicholas, grand seneschal of the king- dom of Naples. In the year 1364, Nerio obtained from the titular empress, Mary of Bourbon, the principality of Vostitza (the ancient iEgium) in Achaia. Some years afterwards he was sent by Jane the first, queen of Naples, to seize upon Corinth and Argos, under the pretence that they had been a part of the conquests of Walter de Brienne 1 . When the troops of the Holy League, formed between France, Naples, Venice, and Genoa, and cemented by pope Boniface the ninth, passed over into Greece, with the pretence of settling the quarrels of the Greek empire, and of preventing the further encroachments of the Turks, Nerio was opposed to the Catalans, Navarese, and other adventurers, who were in possession of several parts of the duchy of Athens. Together with a considerable share of courage and conduct, Nerio joined a great in- fluence, derived from his matrimonial alliances, for he had espoused a Genoese lady of Eubcea, had given one of his daughters in marriage to Charles Tocco, duke of Ioannina, and the other to Theodore Palseologus, Despot of the Morea, and brother of the Greek emperor. 1 A. D. 1371. lxxviii INTRODUCTION. Having reduced the whole duchy, Nerio re- ceived, in 1394, the patent of duke of Athens from Ladislaus, king of Naples and Hungary ; and, dying not long afterwards, he bequeathed Athens to the Venetians, Thebes to his illegiti- mate son Antonio, and Corinth to his son-in- law the despot of the Morea. But Antonio seized upon Athens before the Venetians could assert their rights; and, having had the pru- dence to keep upon good terms with both Greeks and Turks, he enjoyed a long and peaceful reign. As he is said to have adorned Athens with several buildings, it is not im- probable that the high tower at the entrance of the citadel is the work of this prince. Upon the death of Antonio, his widow en- deavoured to obtain the succession for herself, and the Turks having now established them- selves in Thrace, from whence they were ex- tending their incursions into Greece, she sent Laonicus Chalcocondyles, father of the historian, with rich presents to Adrianople, to procure the sanction of the Sultan, Murat the second, to her claims. But Nerio and Antonio, two relatives of Antonio the first, who had lived in his court, seized, in the mean time, upon the citadel, which gave the Sultan a pretext for sending his Turks to plunder Boeotia. Nerio soon found himself obliged to give INTRODUCTION. lxxix way to the superior talents and activity of his brother Antonio, and retired to Florence. Antonio did not long enjoy his acquisition. Upon his death, in 1435, his widow, who was a Greek, and heiress of the family of Melisseno of Messenia, endeavoured to transfer all his possessions, including Athens and Thebes, to one of the Palseologi, Despot of the Morea; but, before she could put the design in exe- cution, Turakhan seized upon Thebes for Sul- tan Murat ; and Nerio Acciajuoli the second, returning from Florence to Athens, resumed the duchy as tributary to the Sultan. During his reign, in the year 1445, the Sultan marched to the Isthmus of Corinth, took the intrenchments of Hexamili, and re- ceived submission and tribute from the princes of the Morea ; but this lasted no longer than the Turkish army remained in that part of the country, and the Greek despots were not finally reduced until Mehmet the second marched into the Morea, five years after the conquest of Constantinople. On the death of Nerio the second, his widow administered the government of Athens for some time in the name of her young son ; but, having married a nobleman of Venice, of which re- public the Turks were already extremely jealous, the Sultan sent Francesco, son of Antonio Ac- lxxx INTRODUCTION. ciajuoli the second, to Athens as governor. This young man, who, according to the usual Turkish mode, had been brought up among the attendants of the Sultan, as a hostage for the fidelity of his father, had not been long in pos- session of Athens, before he gave evidences of his Turkish education, by putting to death the widow of his uncle Nerio, though neither she nor her Venetian husband made any opposition to his assumption of the government. This event furnished an opportune pretext to the ambitious Mehmet the second, who had now succeeded to the scymetar of Ali Osman, to order his general, Omar, son ofTurakhan, to seize upon Athens. Francesco having retired into the citadel, made a capitulation, by which he retained the government of Thebes ; and Omar, in the month of June 1456, took pos- session of Athens, which, three years after- wards, was visited by Mehmet himself, on his return from the conquest of the MoreV. The humiliation of Athens was now com- plete. Obliged at last to bend her neck to the yoke of the oriental barbarians, who, for more than nineteen centuries, had been kept at a distance by the effects of Grecian superiority in all that makes a nation powerful, Athens has 1 A. D. 1459. INTRODUCTION. lxxxi ever since considered herself fortunate in re- ceiving the orders and protection of the Sultan, through the mediation of a black eunuch slave, the guardian of the tyrant's women 1 . This envied privilege was granted by Mehmet himself, who, having expressed the highest admiration at the beauty of the situation, the magnificence of the ancient buildings, the strength of the citadel, and the convenience of the harbours, thought the whole district not unworthy of becoming an ap- panage of his harem. He punished some of the Athenians for a conspiracy, either real or pre- tended, to restore Francesco ; and soon after his return to Constantinople, he ordered Francesco himself to be put to death. The Parthenon was converted from a Christian church into a mosque ; a minaret was erected at its south- western angle, and such alterations were made at the western entrance of the Acropolis, as the recent invention of artillery had rendered ne- cessary for its defence. At the end of that great revolution, which, having begun in the abandonment of ancient civilization to the northern barbarians, had. ended in the conversion of all those barbarous nations to Christianity, and in the consequent 1 Chalcocond. 1. 9. p. 241. g lxxxii INTRODUCTION. commencement of a new and better civilization, Greece felt the effects of the great change in the partial revival of letters, though it was soon disturbed by the progress of the Mohammedans, and at length destroyed by the Turkish con- quest, which, while the rest of Europe has been in a state of progressive improvement, has re- duced Greece to the level of the Musulman nations. The darkness of Greek history during the four centuries preceding the twelfth, is sud- denly illumined by the histories of Anna Com- nena and Nicetas, from whom it appears that Greece emerged from that darkness nearly in its present state. Although the learned of Constan- tinople might turn with pride and satisfaction to the ancient authors for models of the written language, we find undoubted proofs in the By- zantine writers of the twelfth century, that the country had then undergone all the changes in its language, in its population, and in its names of places, which characterize modern Greece. The grammar of the language had assumed nearly the same form which distinguishes the modern languages of Europe, derived from the Latin ; and its poetry no longer regarded the structure of feet, and quantity of syllables, but, like that of the nations of modern Europe, INTRODUCTION. lxxxiii was regulated by accent, to the exclusion of quantity. A fond attachment to the ancient glory of the nation might induce the Byzantine writers, and in particular the learned princess Anna, to prefer the use of names so dear to classical re- collection, as Peloponnesus and Sparta ; but it is evident from Nicetas, that those of Morea and Mistra were already in use. The people of Greece, divided as they now are into Ro- mans, (Fwpouoi,) Albanians, ('A?eav7ra*,) and "Wal- lachians, (BAa^oj,) had severally settled them- selves in the districts where we now find them, while the Bulgarians, who had pervaded every part of Greece, had already established the names of Sclavonic derivation, which we find spread over every part of the country, from the north of Macedonia to Cape Matapan. The degree of dependence of each part of the country upon Constantinople, its political divisions, and the towns in which the population had chiefly concentrated itself, were nearly the same as they are at the present day. In the Morea 1 , Patra, Mistra, and the maritime fortresses of Monemvasia, Anapli, Koroni, and Methoni, already held the chief rank. Beyond the Isth- 1 Tripolitza has acquired some greater degree of im- portance of late years, from its having become the seat of government instead of Anapli (Nauplia). g2 Ixxxiv INTRODUCTION. mus, the towns of note were Athens, Thebes, and Euripo, (Chalcis of Eubcea) ; in Thessaly and Epirus, Larissa, Trikkala, Arta, and Ioan- nina ; and in Macedonia, Achris, Scopia, Serrae, Berrhaea, and Thessalonica. Athens among the rest seems to have emerged from the dark ages nearly in the state in which we now find it. Deprived of the adventitious circumstances which caused its ancient splen- dor, and even of the maritime commerce, which is absolutely necessary to raise it above a small provincial town, Athens was probably reduced nearly to its present population of eight or ten thousand, soon after piracy, the natural curse of the Levant seas, had resumed its reign, and had reduced the maritime commerce of Athens to its state in the heroic ages. It happened most opportunely for the Turks that, about the time when their martial virtue began to decline, and when they began to b opposed to armies in which the art of war was making rapid improvements, the discoveries of a new continent, and of a maritime route to India, together with the new views of ambition, commerce, and international policy, which arose out of those events, diverted the attention of civilized Europe from the countries which had been conquered by the Turks from the Chris- tians. Had it not been for these events, it is i INTRODUCTION. lxxxv probable that the Turks would long since have been expelled from Europe, and from the shores of the Mediterranean, instead of being left to the present time in the undisturbed abuse of the finest regions of ancient civilization. The antipathy which must always prevail between Mohammedans and Christians, threw an additional veil over the fate and condition of Athens, reduced as it was to the provincial town of a barbarous empire. So great was this obscurity two hundred and fifty years ago, when Greek literature had already been cultivated in several parts of Europe with ardour and success, that Athens was «hardly known to exist as an inhabited place ; and still less was it suspected to retain any remains of its ancient magni- ficence. This poverty and obscurity, however, were attended with some advantage ; for, com- bined with the strength of the Acropolis, and the distance of the city from the sea shore, they served in great measure to protect it from the pirates, and from the corsairs of the Turks, Ve- netians, Genoese, and other nations, which have frequented the iEgean sea, and desolated its coasts, in the course of the wars in which those nations have been engaged in the Levant. Twice only since the Turkish conquest have the events of war carried ruin or spoliation into the city itself. In the year 1464, the Venetians lxxxvi INTRODUCTION. landed at the Peiraeeus, surprised the city, and carried off their plunder and captives to Euboea. Two centuries afterwards, Athens again expe- rienced from the same nation an interruption to her lethargic repose. At the end of the campaign of 1687, in which the Venetians, under Francesco Morosini, after- wards Doge, made those important conquests in the Corinthian gulf and Morea, which gave to the Venetians the possession of the peninsula for eight and twenty years, Morosini, with the Venetian fleet, entered the gulf of iEgina, in- tending to proceed against Eubcea ; but the sea- son appearing too far advanced, he determined to apply the remainder of the autumn to the re- duction of Athens, thus securing at least a con- venient station for the winter in the Peiraeeus. Having sent a squadron into the straits of Eu- bcea to prevent the Turks of Egripo from assisting those of Athens, Morosini proceeded with his armament from iEgina to the Peiraeeus. Here he was met by the chiefs of the Greek community, who, in offering submission and as- sistance, informed him at the same time that the Turks had retired into the citadel, abund- antly provided with the means of defence, and that they had sent to demand succour from the Seraskier at Thebes. On the 21st of September, 8000 infantry and INTRODUCTION. Ixxxvii 870 horse, under Count Konigsmarck, a Swede, disembarked, marched to Athens, and sum- moned the citadel without effect. On the 25th, four large mortars, and several pieces of heavy ordnance were placed in battery ; the cannon on the hill of the Pnyx, two of the mortars at the eastern foot of the Acropolis, near the Latin convent, where the regiment of the Prince of Brunswick was quartered, and the two others on the northern side of the town. On the 26th the fire was opened. As the west- ern end of the hill was the only assailable point, the fire was principally directed against the Pro- pylaea, and the modern defences below that building. To the explosion of a Turkish maga- zine, which soon took place, we may probably attribute the destruction of the beautiful little temple of Victory without Wings, the frieze of which is now in the British Museum ; for no- thing but a few fragments of the temple have been found by any traveller who has visited Athens since the siege ; and we know from Spon and Wheler that, a few years before the siege, it was complete, and used as a powder magazine. The operations were for a short time inter- rupted by a party of the Seraskier's cavalry, who suddenly made their appearance in the plain, but they were soon attacked and put to lxxxviii INTRODUCTION. flight by the Venetians. On the 27th, the de- fences of the western end being much injured, and several of the guns dismounted, the be- siegers began to make approaches towards the enemy's works, but they proceeded with dif- ficulty on account of the rocky nature of the ground. The fire, meantime, was continued from the mortars upon the citadel. The Par- thenon being so conspicuous an object, and oc- cupying so large a portion of the citadel, could not long escape injury ; but this might have been comparatively insignificant, had not the Turks unfortunately collected in the temple, together with their most valuable property, a large quan- tity of combustible ammunition. Towards the evening of the 28th, a shell, falling upon the centre of the building, inflamed the magazine. The ex- plosion reduced all the middle of the temple to a heap of ruins ; but, having occurred nearer to the eastern than to the western end, it threw down all the wall at that extremity, and precipitated to the ground all the statues of the eastern pe- diment, while the western front received little injury, and a part of the Opisthodomus was left standing, together with some of the lateral columns of the peristyle adjoining to the cell. The conflagration caused by the explosion, spreading to the houses of the citadel, and the Pasha and his son having soon afterwards been INTRODUCTION. lxxxix killed by another shell, the Turks made offers to capitulate, and on the 29th of September signed terms, by which they were to leave the place in five days, to give up all their slaves and prisoners, and to be transported with their families to Smyrna. On the 4th of October, 3000 Turks, of whom 500 were military, marched out, and were em- barked. The Venetians found 18 pieces of can- non in the fortress. These they distributed in three redoubts, which they built between the city and Peiraeeus, to secure the road from the cavalry of the Seraskier. But a more formidable enemy than the Turks soon began to molest them. It was not long before the plague made its appearance in the Venetian garrison of the Acropolis, when Morosini, to prevent its spread- ing from the city to the fleet in Peiraeeus, and to the camp at Munychia, threw up an intrench- ment from Port Munychia to Port Peiraeeus, which converted the peninsula of Munychia into a fortified place of arms. In the course of the winter, preparations were begun by the Vene- tians for their' expedition against Negropont, when Morosini, embarrassed by the plague, finding that Negropont would demand all his armament, and that Athens would require a larger force than he could spare to keep up the xc INTRODUCTION. communication with the sea, from whence alone his garrison could be supplied with provisions, resolved upon abandoning his recent conquest entirely. It was in vain that the Greeks, dread- ing the vengeance of the Turks against them, offered the payment of 20,000 reals, besides maintaining the garrison. In the month of March 1688, the Acropolis was dismantled, and the ordnance was conveyed to the Peiraeeus. The Greeks then proceeded to the same place, not without some disturbance from the Turkish cavalry, and bitterly complaining that the pre- tended friendship of their fellow Christians had produced no other result, than the loss of their homes and estates. On the 4th of April, the Venetian garrison evacuated the Acropolis, retired into the en- trenched camp of Munyehia, and in three days afterwards embarked. The emigrant Greeks having embarked in Venetian ships, some went to Salamis, JEgina, and the islands of theiEgean, others to Corinth and Nauplia, near which latter place the senate of Venice allotted habitations and portions of land to some of the emigrants, in the district of Iri, (the ancient Asine) ; while to others they gave annual stipends. The greater part of the emigrant families were, however, in the course of a few years prevailed upon by INTRODUCTION. XCi the Turks of Athens to return, and the district of Iri is now very little cultivated or inhabited 1 . Thus ended this fatal expedition, no less de- structive to the remains of Athenian art, than use- less as a military enterprise ; for it contributed nothing to facilitate the acquisition of Euboea, or to complete the conquest of Peloponnesus. In three days the works of Pericles received from a nation which not only prided itself upon the encouragement of the arts, but which had even rivalled the ancients in painting, more in- jury than had been caused by many centuries of the grossest ignorance and barbarism. A few years before the siege, when Wheler, Spon, and De Nointel visited Athens, the Propylasa still preserved its pediment ; the temple of Vic- tory without Wings was complete ; the Parthe- non, or great temple of Minerva, was perfect, i For the history of the siege see Fanelli, Atene Attica, a work published sixteen years afterwards, and in which the pomp of expression forms an amusing contrast with the poverty of thought. But the best authorities are the two following contemporary documents: — I. Letter of a Vene- tian captain, employed in the siege, preserved by Bulifone. Lettere Memorabili, Raccolta Seconda, p. 83. 2. The of- ficial report of the Venetian government upon the campaign of 1687, transmitted to London, translated into English, and published with the royal arms of James II. on the 16th of December, 1687, under the title of " Journal of the Venetian Campaign,'' &c. xcn INTRODUCTION. with the exception of the roof, and of the central figures in the eastern, and of one or two in the western pediment; the Erechtheium was so little injured that it was used as the harem of a Turkish house ; and there were still some re- mains of buildings and statues on the south side of the Parthenon. If the result of the siege did not leave the edifices of the Acropolis quite in the deplorable state in which we now see them, the injury which they received on that occasion was the cause of all the dilapida- tion which they have since suffered, and indeed has rendered the transportation of the fallen fragments of sculpture out of Turkey their best preservative from total demolition. In fairness to the Venetians, however, it must be confessed that they neither appear to have previously known the value of the antiquities contained in the Acropolis, nor to have had any expectation of the fatal effects of their fire. The great cause of all the destruction, which the buildings of the Acropolis have suf- fered in modern times, has been the practice pre- vailing among the Athenian Turks of depositing their powder in the convenient receptacles af- forded by the ancient buildings. Although works so exquisitely finished as those of the Acropolis could not fail to receive cruel injury from a bom- bardment and cannonade at a range of five or six INTRODUCTION. xcm hundred yards, the solidity of ancient Athenian architecture would have defied the Venetian projectiles, if it had not been for the deposits of powder in the temples of Victory and Minerva. It was in like manner by a powder magazine, supposed to have been inflamed by lightning, that the eastern portico of the Propylaea, to- gether with the adjacent parts, were thrown down about the year 1636. At present the ammunition of the Turkish citadel is deposited in the northern portico of the Pandrosium, which has been closed for that purpose, and thus there wants only a casual thunderbolt, or the stupid or predestinarian negligence of a Turkish keeper, to scatter in atoms this most exquisitely finished of all the Athenian edifices. The removal of the statues of the western pediment of the Parthenon, which even the explosion had been unable to displace, was be- gun by Morosini himself, who thought that the car of Victory, with its horses of the natural size, and of such admirable workmanship as to strike the Venetians themselves when they came to ex- amine them with astonishment and regret, would be a fine accompaniment to his triumphal entry into Venice, and a noble monument of his con- quest of Athens, or according to the more can- did expression of the Italian historian, of the voluntary abandonment of the Attic conquest. xciv INTRODUCTION. By the awkwardness of the Venetian engineers, however, the whole groupe was thrown down in the act of lowering it, and according to the testimony of an eye-witness 1 , broken to atoms. The destruction of these horses was so complete, that no remains of them have been discovered among the other fragments found at the foot of the western pediment, and conveyed to Eng- land by Lord Elgin. It has already been observed, that, until the middle of the sixteenth century, Athens was hardly known to preserve any remains of an- tiquity, or even to exist as an inhabited place. The study of Greek literature, spreading rapidly over Europe, produced at that time an endea- vour to penetrate the darkness which had en- veloped Greece since the Turkish conquest, and which had rendered it less known and less ex- plored than the wilds of the lately discovered new world. It was not that travellers had not occasionally penetrated into Greece at an earlier period, for it appears that Ciriaco d'Ancona copied some inscriptions at Athens in 1437; 1 The Venetian Captain abovementioned, whose company was quartered in the Acropolis, expresses himself as follows : " Sopra l'entrata eravi l'effigie de Giove, il trionfo della nas- cita di Minerva, e due cavalli che tiravano il carro, ove essa sedcva. L'eccellentissimo Capitan Generale mand6 a le- tare quci cavalli, ma la poca accortezza di alcuni gli fece cadere e si ruppero non solo, ma si difecero in polvere." INTRODUCTION. XCV and we are informed by Spon, that he saw at Rome a manuscript on vellum, of an Italian architect named Giambetti, of the date of 1465, in which the artist had given designs of the Tower of the Winds at Athens, of Sparta, and of other places ; but the truth was, that the progress of literature was still so slow that little curiosity was shown for such inquiries. In the year 1573, Martin Kraus, or Crusius, a learned professor of Tubingen, and the first who taught Greek in Germany, curious to ascertain the actual state of Greece, and of the Greek language, contrived to open a communication with some Greeks at Constantinople upon those subjects. In a letter addressed to Theodore Zygomala, he states that Athens was described by the modern historians of Germany as totally destroyed, and occupied only by a few fisher- men's huts, and he desires to know from his correspondent whether such was the truth. Zygomala answers that, being a native of Nau- plia, he had often visited Athens, but, in at- tempting to describe its antiquities, he ex- poses his ignorance, for he calls the Parthe- non, the Pantheon ; and, by a mistaken ap- plication of a passage in Pausanias, he supposes the horses of the car of Victory in the western pediment to be the work of Praxiteles 1 . To TfcivSsciv, oiKoSopyv vikujitclv itdna; oiKO§0[xas } yhvittcvs XCVi INTRODUCTION. Another correspondent of Crusius, Symeon Kavasila, commits a still grosser blunder as to the Parthenon, by calling it the temple of the Unknown God, mentioned by St. Paul 1 . He states the citadel of Athens to have been then inhabited by the Turks, and the lower town by the Christians, which seems to indicate a more marked separation of the two nations, than exists at the present day, when all the higher class of Turks resides in the city. The extent of Athens appears also to have been at that time somewhat greater than it now is on the side of the Olympium ; for, if I understand his words rightly, one third of the ancient Hadrianopolis was then inhabited, where in another century there remained only two or three cottages. sxrbg Std Tta. xa) vxb$ tuj AyvioVra) ©sou, cLirav virb povcuv 'lv olxov- jxevov rb $s exrbs (to dya^Bta^v 01 avfywitoi ovTsg rvy^dyovaiv (J£ sv uvfybg Tov dpiS[x.bv ^XidSe; SouSexa) djV ris '0\vtx.irla; mentioned by Plutarch (in Theseo), and the same also as the temple of Earth (ro rvjs r-rjs) which Thucydides names among the ancient tem- ples situated in this quarter. (See p. 46. n. 1.) Pausanias therefore probably wrote reju-svoj tyj$ rijs sirUkt)