I ' 4 •: a i THE 'DYER’S INSTRUCTOR. / THE DYER’S INSTRUCTOR: COMPRISING PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS IN TUE ART OF DYEING SILK, COTTON, WOOL, AND WORSTED AND WOOLLEN GOODS, AS SINGLE AND TWO-COLORED DAMASKS, MOREENS, CAMLETS, LASTINGS, SHOT COBOURGS, SILK STRIPED ORLEANS, PLAIN ORLEANS FROM WHITE AND COLORED WARPS, MERINOS, WOOLLENS, YARNS, ETC. CONTAINING NEARLY EIGHT HUNDRED RECEIPTS. TO WHICH IS ADDED, A TREATISE ON THE ART OF PADDING; AND THE PRINTING OP SILK WARPS, SKEINS, AND HANDKERCHIEFS, AND TnE VARIOUS MORDANTS AND COLORS FOR THE DIFFERENT STYLES OF SUCH WORK. BY DAVID SMITH, FATTERN DYER. PHILADELPHIA: II E N R Y C A RE Y BAI U D, No. 7 HART'S BUILDINGS. 1853 . PHILADELPHIA I T. K. AND P. G. COLLINS, PRINTERS. INTRODUCTION. In presenting to the Public my second Work on Dyeing, I have endeavored to give concise and clear directions for Dyeing Wool in its raw state, Cotton in the Hank and Warp, and Silk in the Skein, in all the various colors ; and also for Dyeing the different fabrics of Piece Goods, as Damasks, single and two colors, Moreens, Camlets, Tastings, Shot Cobourgs, Silk Striped Orleans, Plain Orleans from White and Colored Warps, Merinos, Woollens, Yarns, &c. Also I have append- ed a concise Treatise on the Art of Padding ; and directions for the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and the various Mordants and Colors for the different styles of such Work. In this department I have been aided by one of the most practical men in the Silk Printing business. 1 * VI INTRODUCTION. Since the publication of the “ Practical Dyer’s Guide,” I have received numerous applications for receipts for Dyeing Silk, Cotton, and Wool. — As the “ Dyer’s Guide” is particularly appli- cable to Stuff, Yarn, and Woollen Cloth Dyers, I have collected the Receipts on Cotton, Silk, and Wool Dyeing, from my own resources, (not from obsolete Books on Dyeing,) and from practical men in the trade who have been prompt to aid me in this attempt to impart practical and scientific knowledge to my brethren in the trade. The following work principally comprises Receipts for Dyeing a given quantity of goods, as Wool, Cotton, and Silk, together with other miscellane- ous important information. To communicate instruction by clear and con- cise Receipts, must be regarded as best calculated to qualify a person for successful operations in practical dyeing ; it will save much time, and also expense; and for a learner, must be far superior to reading and studying the complicated and cir- cuitous methods, as detailed in some Treatises on the Art of Dyeing, which demands the greatest simplicity in its explanations and directions, so that a person from reading them may not be be- INTRODUCTION. Vll wildered as in a labyrinth of complexity, but pro- ceed at once to dye. I have endeavored to avoid such a method of instruction, and I presume that the following Receipts will meet the 'wishes of those who are seeking after such knowledge. — Having myself had much experience in dyeing nearly all sorts of Goods, I have given every class of colors and the different shades of the same color, in as great a variety as I could find calcu- lated to be useful. As some parties have wished to purchase the “ Dyer’s Guide,” ivithout the Patterns , it is neces- sary to say that only a limited number was pub- lished, and the edition is fast running out, and that the few copies remaining must be sold with Patterns. But I have endeavored to meet their wishes by the publication of the following Work, and, as the price is so low, considering the import- ant information given, it is presumed that it will be serviceable to the Trade, not excepting those who have purchased the “ Guide,’ ’ on account of those Receipts which refer to Silk, Cotton, and Wool Dyeing. D. S. CONTENTS WOOL-DYEING. 1 Fancy Bloom 2 Drab 3 Heavy Drab 4 Slate Color 5 Liglu Green 6 Darker Shade of Green 7 Light Blue 8 Logwood Blue 9 Sage Drab 10 Black 11 Fast Blue Black 12 California Color 13 Darker Shade of Califor- nia Color 14 Fawn Drab 15 Dark Fawn Drab 16 Madder Drab 17 Fuller Shade of Madder Drab 18 Dark Shade of Madder Drab 19 Blue Slate Color 20 Crane Blue 21 Fancy Bloom 22 Silver Drab 23 Redder Shade of Silver Drab 24 Very Light Shade of Drab 25 Light Drab, Yellower Shade than No. 24 26 Vicuna Drab 27 Redder Shade of Vicuna 28 Fine Red Lavender 29 Light Olive 30 Greener Olive 31 Redder Shade of Olive 32 Dark Olive 33 Darker Green Olive 34 Dark Green Olive, Chromed 35 True Olive 36 Vant Color, near Canary Color 37 Light Brown 38 Middle Brown 39 Darker Brown 40 True Brown 41 Light Green 42 Moss Green 43 Good Bottle Green, Chromed 44 Invisible Green, Chromed 45 Bottle Green, True Color 46 Violet, or Mulberry 47 Fine Claret 48 Darker Claret 49 Russian Brown 50 Dark Brown 51 a. Lac Scarlet 51 b. Full Pink 52 Wine Color 53 Royal Blue 54 Grain Crimson 55 Grain Scarlet 56 Full Yellow 57 Orange 58 Canary Color 59 Sky Blue 60 Saxon Blue X CONTENTS COTTON 1 Buff 2 Buff 3 Buff, or Nankin 4 Straw Color 5 Fksh Color 0 Safllower Pink 7 Light Pink 8 Scarlet * 9 Light Cinnamon Brown 10 Darker Shade of Light Brown 1 1 Dark Shades of Brown 12 Chrome Yellow 1 3 Darker Shade of Chromed Yellow 14 Full Chrome Orange 15 Fast Drab 16 Fast Blue 17 Lavender 18 Lilac 1 9 Silver Drab 20 Good Light Drab 21 Fuller Shade of No. 20 22 Light Olive 23 Darker Olive 24 Dark Olive 25 Full Yellow Drab 26 Light Buff 27 Light Blue 28 Light Extract Green 29 Middle Shade of Green 30 Dark Shade of Green 31 Chromed and Fast Greens 32 Light Catechu Brown 33 Darker Catechu 34 Dark Catechu Brown 35 Full Dark Catechu Brown 36 Full Yellow Scarlet DYEING. 37 Barwood Red 38 Imitation of Turkey Red . * 39 Various Shades of Silver Drab 40 Various Shades of Fawn Drab 41 Good Black 42 Good Black, to stand Mill- ing and Scouring 43 Fast Black 44 Fast Purple 45 Fast Lavender 46 Sky Blue 47 Bark Yellow 48 Other Yellows 49 Peachwood Red 50 Crimsons and Pinks 51 Clarets 52 Ruby 53 Plum Color 54 Maroon 55 Blue Purple 56 Full Purple 57 Saxon Blue 58 Flat Royal Blue 59 Bright Royal Blue 60 Victoria Blue 61 Napoleon Blue 62 On Bleaching Cotton 63 How to spend Catechu 64' How to make the Spirits for Cotton Dyeing pur- poses 65 On Steeping 66 IIow to spend Annotta 67 How to spend Turmeric for Cotton Dyeing 68 How to spend Safllower CONTENTS XI SILK-DYEING. 1 Lavender 2 Lavender, No. 2 3 Lavender, No. 3 4 Spirit Yellow 5 Wold Yellow 6 Bark Yellow 7 Turmeric Yellow 8 Orange Color 9 Grain Crimson 10 Grain Scarlet 1 1 Sky Blues from Extract 12 Sky Blues from Prussiate 13 Mazarine Blue 13 b. French Blue 14 Royal Blue 15 Blue Black 10 Common Full Black 17 Browns of dilferent Shades 18 Dark Browns of dilferent Shades 19 California Browns, and Ol- ive 20 Red Browns, or Claret Browns 21 Another mode of Dyeing Red Browns 22 Acid Brown 23 Light Claret Brown 24 Dark Claret Brown 25 Clarets and Chocolates 26 Another mode of Dyeing Clarets and Chocolates 27 Mock Crimsons, dyed dif- ferent ways 28 Olive 29 Purples 30 Maroons 31 Maroons, another way 32 Ruby 33 Daunce Black 34 Violet 3G Light Green 37 Middle Green 38 Dark Green 39 Bottle Green 40 Other Greens, of dilferent Shades 41 Fast Green, with a Blue Bottom 42 Light Olives, of dilferent Shades 43 Flesh Color, or Buff 44 Salmon 45 Gold Color 4G Yellow -Fawn Drab 47 Fawn Drab 48 Flat Drab 49 Heavy Drabs 50 Slate Drab 51 Bronze Drab 52 Another mode of Dyeing Drabs 53 Sour Browns 54 French White 55 Pinks from Safflower 56 Pinks from Peachwood 57 Grain Pinks 58 Mock Scarlet 59 Real Paris Blacks GO Napoleon Blue, and how to make the Spirits for the same 1 2 3 4 WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. Pea Green, very fine Shade Silver Drab California Color Bright Vicuna 5 Light Fiery Brown 6 Middle Olive 7 Red Lavender 8 Red Drab Xll CONTENTS WOOLLEN YARN 9 Ruby 10 Wine Color 11 Fine Claret 12 Yellow Brown 13 Middle Green 14 Good Brown 15 Dark Purple 16 Sea Green 17 Dark Brown 18 Dark Drab 19 Maroon 20 Scarlet 21 Cinnamon Brown 22 Grain Crimson 23 Full Pink 24 Salmon Color 25 Full Grain Rose 26 Light Buff 27 Light Yellow 28 Orange 29 Bottle Green 30 Invisible Green 31 Dark Blue 32 Blue Black 33 Full Black 34 Royal Blue DYEING — Continued. 35 Apple Green 36 Light Olive 37 Dark Olive 38 Brown Olive 39 Fawn Drab 40 Dove Color 41 Blue Lavender 42 Sky Blue 43 Saxon Blue 44 Sage Drab 45 Chromed Green 46 Dark Chromed Green 47 Light and Dark Claret 48 Mock Crimson 49 Grain Maroon 50 Dark Chocolate 51 Heavy Brown 52 Dark Claret Brown 63 Darker. Claret Brown 54 Full Red Brown 55 Full Yellow Brown 56 Darker Yellow Brown 57 Dark Olive 68 Darker Shade of Olive 59 Very Dark Claret WORSTED YARN DYEING. 1 Slate Purple 2 Red Purple 3 Full Red Purple 4 Royal Blue 5 Grain Maroon 6 Mock Crimson 7 Claret 8 Light Vicuna 9 Dark Vicuna 10 Oak Drab 11 Bottle Green 12 Apple Green 13 Knot Green 14 Sea Green 15 Dark Sea Green 16 Mock Maroon 17 Green Olive 18 Dark Olive 19 Dahlia 20 Ruby 21 Apple Green 22 Invisible Green 23 Bottle Green 24 Brown Olive 25 Green Olive 26 Canary Color 27 Full Yellow 28 Orange CONTENTS Xlll WORSTED YARN DYEING— Continued. 29 Grain Crimson 41 Light Puce 30 Rose 42 Slate Drab 31 Pink 43 Sage Drab 32 Imitation of Indigo Blue 44 Red Cinnamon Brown 33 Light Brown 45 Dark Brown 34 Claret Brown 46 Dark Red Brown 35 Snuff Color 47 Grain Scarlet 36 Full Black 48 Salmon 37 Blue Black 49 Sky BJue 38 Fawn Drab 50 Saxon Blue 39 Lilac -51 Dove Color 40 Lavender WOOLLEN-DYEING. 1 Grain Scarlet 28 Royal Blue, Gold Lists 2 Scarlet 29 Green 3 Scarlet 30 Purple 4 Scarlet 31 Dark Brown 5 Lac Scarlet 32 Dark Claret Brown 6 Scarlet 33 Black 7 Scarlet 34 Peachwood Red 8 Orange 35 Green 9 Salmon 36 Chestnut Brown 10 Salmon 37 Dark Green 11 Grain Rose 38 Claret Brown 12 Gold Color 39 Chromed Green 13 Grain Rose 40 Claret 14 Full Red Crimson 41 Brown Olive 15 Light Rose 42 Mule Drab 16 Rose Color 43 Stone Drab 17 Yellow 44 Fawn Drab 18 Full Yellow, or 45 Nut Brown 19 Sky Blue 46 Good Light Claret 20 Dove Color 47 Good Crimson 21 Crimson 48 Good Logwood Blue 22 Green 49 Logwood Blue 23 Royal Blue 50 Yarn and Woollen Pieoc 24 Dark Royal Blue Dyeing 25 Royal Blue 51 New mode of Dyeing Log- 26 Royal Blue wood Blues 27 Royal Blue 52 Maroon 2 XIV CONTENTS 1 9 3 4 5 G 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 1G 17 18 19 20 21 DAMASK-DYEING. rink and White Dink Salmon and White Salmon Rose Color Rose Color White and Ponque Color Ponque Grain Crimson Grain Crimson Bull' and White Buff Straw Color and White Straw Color Yellow and AVhite Yellow Lac Scarlet and AVhite Lac Scarlet Grain Scarlet and AVIiite Grain Scarlet Light Orange and AA'kite 22 Orange 23 Sky Blue and AVhite 24 Sky Blue 25 Saxon Blue and AVhite 2G Saxon Blue 27 Light Green and AVhite 28 Light Green 29 Middle Green and AA T hite 30 Middle Green 31 Cinnamon Brown and AVhite 32 Cinnamon Brown 33 Light Fawn 34 Darker Fawn 35 Light Silver Drab 36 Darker Silver Drab 37 Mock Crimson 38 Sea Green 39 Coffee Brown 40 Black MOREEN-DYEING. 1 Light Sky Blue 2 Dark Sky Blue 3 Full Orange 4 Light Orange 5 Full Grain Scarlet G Grain Scarlet 7 Light Lac Scarlet 8 Full Lac Scarlet 9 Light Yellow 10 Full Yellow 11 Straw Color 12 Buff 13 Light Grain Crimson 14 Dark Grain Crimson 15 Coffee Brown 1G Sea Green 1 7 Mock Crimson 18 Black 19 Light Silver Drab 20 Full Silver Drab 21 Light Fawn 22 Darker Fawn 23 Cinnamon Brown 24 Darker Cinnamon Brown 25 Middle Green 2G Dark Green 27 Light Green 28 Darker Green 29 Light Saxon Blue 30 Dark Saxon Blue 31 Light Red Crimson 32 Full Red Crimson 33 Light Rose Color 34 Full Rose Color 35 Light Salmon 3G Full Salmon 37 Light Pink 38 Full Pink CONTENTS XV TWO-COLORED DAMASK-DYEING. 1 Scarlet and rink 2 Scarlet and Yellow 3 Scarlet and Flesh Color 4 Scarlet and Salmon 5 Scarlet and Rose Color 6 Light Green and Pink 7 Middle Green and Pink 8 Green and Yellow 9 Green and Salmon 1 0 Saxon Blue and Rose Color 11 Sky Blue and Pink 12 Sky Blue and Pink, ano- ther way 13 Blues and Crimsons, of different sorts 14 Green and Crimsons 15 Dark Blue and Orange 1G Dark Blue and Light Orange 17 Ruby and Blue 18 Yellow and Blue 19 Orange and Blue 20 Scarlet and Common Blue 21 Coffee and Royal Blue 1 Scarlet 2 Light Orange 3 Full Orange 4 Light Yellow 5 Full Yellow G Grain Crimson 7 Ash Drab 8 Silver Drab 9 Fawn Drab 10 Saxon Blue 11 Maroon 12 Light Brown CAMLET-DYEING. 13 Dark Brown 14 Claret Brown 15 Light Purple 1G Middle Purple 17 Dark Purple 18 Another mode of Dyeing Purples 19 Blue Black 20 Full Black 21 Royal Blue 22 Green 23 Bottle Green LASTING 1 Light Yellow 2 Full Yellow 3 Silver Drab 4 Ash Drab 5 Fawn Drab 6 Saxon Blue 7 Grain Crimson 8 Scarlet 9 Light Orange 10 Full Orange 11 Maroon 12 Light Brown DYEING. 13 Green 14 Bottle Green 15 Blue Black 1G Full Black 17 Claret Brown 18 Dark Brown 19 Light Purple 20 Middle Purple 21 Dark Purple 22 Royal Blue 23 Another Mode of Dyeing Purples XVI CONTENTS SHOT COBOURG DYEING. 1 Blue ancl rink 2 Yellow and Blue 3 Orange and Blue 4 Crimson and Blue 5 Ruby and Blue G Lavender and Pink 7 Green and Pink 8 Lavender and Crimson 0 Dark Sky and Crimson 10 Light Green and Salmon 11 Green and Pink 12 Green and Claret 13 Green and Purple 14 Black and Crimson 15 Light Olive and Crimson 16 Orange and Purple 17 Royal Blue 18 Green and Orange, Full Pink SILK STRIPED ORLEANS FROM BLACK, WHITE, AND COLORED WARPS. 1 Light Olive from Black Warp 2 Dark Olive from Black Warp 3 Brown Olive from Black Warp 4 Red Brown from Purple Warp 5 Dark Claret from Black Warp 6 Chromed Brown from Pur- ple Warp 7 Claret Brown from Claret Warp 8 Dark Claret Brown from Claret Warp 1) Chromed Claret from Pur- ple Warp 10 Dark Claret from Purple Warp 1 1 Ruby from Violet Warp 12 Light Claret from Purple Warp 13 Darker Claret from Claret Warp 1 4 Adelaide from Black W arp 15 Dark Mulberry from Bl’k Warp 1 0 Adelaide from Black Warp 17 Violet from Violet Warp 18 Royal Blue from White Warp 19 Lavender from White Warp 20 Red Brown from Purple Warp 21 Green from White Warp 22 Solid Grain Pink from White Warp COLORED ORLEANS FROM BLACK WARPS. 1 Light Brown 2 Chromed Brown 3 Claret 4 Dark Claret 5 Blue Claret 6 Violet 7 Adelaide 8 Dark Claret Brown CONTENTS XVII COLORED ORLEANS FROM BLACK WARPS— Continued. 9 Dark Brown Olive 10 Green Olive 11 Darker Green Olive 12 Chromed Green 13 Invisible Green 14 Blue Black 15 Full Black COLORED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 1 Cinnamon Brown 2 Red Brown 3 Coffee Brown 4 Light Claret 5 Middie Claret G Dark Claret 7 Chromed Claret 8 Adelaide 9 Mulberry 40 Apple Green 1 1 Light Olive 12 Dark Green Olive 13 Brown Olive 14 Dark Green 15 Invisible Green 16 Red Claret 17 Red Brown 18 Dark Brown 19 Silver Drab 20 Dark Silver Drab 21 Stone Drab 22 Madder Drab 23 Lavender Drab 24 Pink 25 Sea Green 26 Sky Blue 27 Full Black COLORED 1 Royal Blue 2 Dark Royal Blue 3 Grain Maroon 4 Full Grain Crimson 5 Pink 6 Salmon 7 Grain Rose 8 Light Orange 9 Yellow 10 Grain Scarlet 11 Lac Scarlet 12 Light Pea Green 13 Sea Green 14 Apple Green 15 Bottle Green 16 Invisible Green 17 Chromed Green MERINOS. 18 Chromed Invisible Green 19 Purple 20 Light Chromed Purple 21 Violet 22 Ruby 23 Maroon 24 Light Claret 25 Middle Claret 26 Full Claret 27 Dark Green Olive 28 Brown Olive • 29 Full Red Brown 30 Dark Coffee Brown 31 Adelaide 32 Mulberry 33 Light Sky Blue 34 Dark Sky Blue XV111 CONTENTS COLORED MERINOS— Continued. 35 Lavender 36 Red Lavender 37 Madder Drab 38 Full Drab 39 Silver Drab 40 Blue Black 41 Full Black WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. 1 Royal Blue ' 2 Bloomy Royal Blue A3 Light Rose 4 Full Rose 5 Light Salmon 6 Full Salmon 7 Melon 8 Yellow 9 Orange 10 Yellow Buff 11 Light Buff 12 Full Buff 13 Scarlet 14 Lavender 15 Sky Blue PADDING. 1 Estariazer Standard 2 Red Brown Standard 3 Dark Purple Standard 4 Drab Standard 5 Drab Standard 6 Gray, or Quaker Drab Standard 7 Slate Standard 8 Dove Standard, old way 9 Dark Dove Standard, new way 10 Light Dove Standard 1 1 Fawn Drab Standard 12 Lavender Standard 13 Sulphate of Indigo 14 Blue Standard 15 Bloom Pink Standard 16 Royal Blue Standard 17 Prussiate of Tin 18 Claret Standard 19 To Pad Claret 20 To Pad Black 21 To make Acetate of Copper 22 Stone Drab Standard 23 Orange Standard 24 Light Olive Standard 25 To Pad Dark Shades of Olive 26 Lilac 27 Slate Standard 28 First Shade, Yellow Stone Drab 29 Second Shade, Stone Drab 60 Third Shade 31 Cinnamon Standard 32 To Pad Cinnamon 33 To Pad Estariazer Color 34 To Pad Slate Colors 35 Dark Green Standard 36 Pale Green 37 Sky Blue Standard 38 Lavender Standard 39 Drab Preparation, or an- other Mode of Padding Drab 40 To Pad different Shades of Drab 41 Sky Blue 42 Royal Blue CONTENTS XIX SILK WARP, SKEIN, AND 1 Black 2 Scarlet 3 Green 4 Claret 5 Brown 6 Dark Red 7 Orange 8 Amber 9 Pink 10 Light Pink 11 Peach 12 Light Peach 13 Dark Purple 14 Light Purple 15 Blue 16 Dark Brown 17 Light Brown 18 Poppy Red 19 Dark Fawn 20 Light Fawn 21 Dark Drab 22 Light Drab 23 Dark Dahlia 24 Light Dahlia 25 Dark Blue 26 Light Blue 27 Dark Green 28 Light Green 29 Dark Slate 30 Light Slate 31 Red Ruby 32 Maze HANDKERCHIEF PRINTING. 33 Dark Lavender 34 Light Lavender 35 Dark Maroon 36 Light Maroon 37 Dark Grain Crimson 38 Pontia 39 Rose 40 Dark Apricot 41 Light Apricot 42 Dark Red Purple 43 Light Red Furple 44 Dark Orange 45 Light Orange 46 Dark Olive 47 Light Olive 48 Dark Cinnamon Brown - 49 Light Cinnamon Brown 50 Dark Yellow 51 Light Yellow 52 Orange Brown 53 Light Brown 54 How to make Bronze Peacliwood 55 To make Bronze Logwood 56 Copper Liquor 57 Annotta Liquor 58 Copperas Buff 59 Ammoniacal Liquor 60 Extract of Indigo, for Printing 61 Dark Prussiate Liquor 62 Sulphate of Indigo NATURE AND USE OF DYEWARES. Alum Annotta Archil Ammonia Argol Super Argol Camwood Catechu Cochineal Chrome, or Bichromate of Potass Cudbear Chemic, or Sulphate of Indigo French Berry, or Persian Berry Fustic, or Young Fustic XX CONTENTS NATURE AND USE OF DYEWARES— Continued. Galls Indigo Kermes or Lac Dye Logwood Madder Nitric Acid, or Aqua Fortis Nitrates Oxalic Tin Peachwood Prussiate of Potass Quercitron Bark Safflower Saunders, or Red Sandal Sapan Wood Sumach. Turmeric EXAMINATION OF WATER BY .TESTS, &c. THE DYERS’ INSTRUCTOR. WOOL-DYEING. — • — No. 1. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— FANCY BLOOM. Boil 1J hour with 1 pound of Logwood. 1J lb. of Barwood. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Alum. The Alum must be melted before it is thrown upon the wool, and then well stirred in, so as to make it as even as possible. Then boil half an hour longer. It is better to melt the saddening, whether it be Alum, Copperas, or Blue Vitriol, as by this means it sooner penetrates the body of the wool, and does not leave a deadness in some parts, as is generally the case when the saddening is put on in the crystal state. 3 26 WOOL-DYEING. No. 2. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DRAB. Boil with | lb. of Barwood. j lb. of Logwood. 2 ozs. of Fustic. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas. And then spread well out. No. 3. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— HEAVY DRAB. Boil with 8 ozs. of Logwood. 2 lbs. of Barwood. 1 lb. of Fustic. Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. Spread out. No. 4. 130 lbs. OF WOOL.— SLATE COLOR. Boil with 8 ozs. of Logwood. 2J lbs. of Barwood. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Alum. Spread out. This shade may be dyed by first boiling the ■wool in 1 lb. of Chrome for about an hour, then WOOL-DYEING. 27 wash and fill it up in a separate pan, with about 1 lb. of Logwood, and 8 ozs. of Cudbear. But as this mode of dyeing Drabs will not stand Milling and Scouring so well as the former, I can- not recommend it, though some wool-dyers follow this receipt. No. 5. 130 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT GREEN. Boil one hour with 1 lb. of Chrome and 8 ozs. of Alum. Then run off the Liquor, and wash well in clean water; dye off with 20 lbs. of Fustic and 8 lbs. of Logwood, and then boil to shade re- quired. By adding more Logwood in the finishing, any shade of Dark Green may be got. When not Yel- low enough, add a little more Fustic. The colors dyed by means of Chroming are very difficult to distinguish from those of fast In- digo colors, and can only be distinguished by a strong Acid : I shall insert a few of them to ac- commodate those who are not so much acquainted with the nature of Chrome. From this prepara- tion or Mordant almost any shade may be pro- duced, varying from a Light Drab to a Dark Brown, Dark Green, Dark Purple, Dark Claret, or Dark Olive. Peachwood, Logwood, Fustic, 28 WOOL-DYEING. Camwood, Barwood, and Madder will work after it. Peachwood itself will make a good Claret after it, producing a blue shade ; but when too Blue, a little Alum will redden it, and will work as solid and even a color as by any other mode of preparation. No. 6. 130 lbs. OF WOOL.— A DARKER SHADE OF GREEN. Prepare as above with 1 oz. of Chrome. 8 ozs. of Alum. Boil one hour, then take it out, and let it soak an hour or two, and then fill it up in another water with 12 lbs. of Logwood. 14 lbs. of Fustic. No. 7. TO lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT BLUE. Prepare with 8 ozs. of Alum. 8 ozs. of Chrome. Fill up with 8 lbs. of Ground Logwood, or Chipped Logwood boiled up in bags. WOOL-DYEING. 29 No. 8. *» 200 lbs. OF WOOL.— LOGWOOD BLUE. Prepare or boil one hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. 4 lbs. of Alum. 1 lb. of Red Argol. Clean and finish with 35 lbs. of Logwood, and boil half an hour in the finishing. This is a good imitation of Indigo, and it will bear exposure to the atmosphere. I have taken this receipt from my Practical Dyers Guide. It has been used by some parties who have pur- chased the Guide , and they state that this Re- ceipt alone is worth the price of the Guide. No. 9. 50 lbs. OF WOOL.— SAGE DRAB. Prepare as above with 8 ozs. of Chrome. 8 ozs. of Argol. 4 ozs. of Alum. Finish with 1 lb. of Logwood. 8 ozs. of Fustic. If not red enough, add a handful of Cudbear, and boil an hour. 8* 30 WOOL-DYEING. No. 10. 160 lbs. OF WOOL.— BLACK. Boil one hour with 4 lbs. of Chrome. 4 lbs. of Alum. 2 lbs. of Bed Argol. Finish in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Logwood. 4 lbs. of Barwood. The wood must be well boiled up in bags before the wool is entered, cool down a little, and enter at about 180°, then boil the wool about an hour. This is a good Black, and on this principle almost all Blacks are dyed, in stuff goods, and cloth, and wool; but some dyers think it is not so durable as other modes of Dyeing Black. There- fore I will now give two or three different modes of dyeing Blacks on wools. No. A. Another mode is to boil the wool with Cam- wood (a sufficient quantity for the bloom) for about two hours, then sadden with Copperas, and let it lie in this all night; next morning, boil it in Log- wood for about the same time as before, and then sadden again with Copperas. This mode is preferred by some, being a much WOOL-DYEING. 81 finer Black, and will stand Milling without losing any of its color. By the former mode it assumes a slight green appearance in the Milling, and con- sequently loses a little of its darkness. The best Black is that which is dyed with In- digo in the following manner : — No. B. First redden with Camwood as before, but with- out saddening, and then fill up to the shade in the woad vat. Either Blue Black or full Black may be dyed in this way, and it is certainly the best and firm- est mode of dyeing cloth. It will stand exposure to the atmosphere, and resist any acid applied to it for a test, neither fading nor being diminished in any measure ; even Sulphuric Acid of double strength will not injure the color, but rather brighten it than otherwise. This is an expensive mode of dyeing a Black, but it is worth any amount charged for it, on account of its firmness and durability. 32 WOOL-DYEING. No. 11. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— FAST BLUE BLACK. Boil with 10 lbs. of Camwood. 3 lbs. of Alum. 2 lbs. of Bed Argol. And leave in the pan all night, then blue up about one-half in the vat, and then in another pan boil it one hour with 40 lbs. of Logwood. And sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. No. 12. 160 lbs. OF WOOL.— CALIFORNIA COLOR. Prepare or boil one hour with 2 lbs. of Chrome. 2 lbs. of Red Argol. 2 lbs. of Alum. Clean and finish in another vessel with 4 lbs. of Camwood. 40 lbs. of Fustic. 30 lbs. of Crop Madder. If a brighter shade be required, add 1 Gill of Oil of Vitriol. All the various shades of this color may be dyed after this mode, by increasing or diminishing the same wares, according to shade required. WOOL-DYEING. 83 No. 18. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER SHADE OF CALIFORNIA COLOR. Another mode of dyeing this color is as fol- lows : — Boil two hours with 20 lbs. of Fustic. 24 lbs. of Crop Madder. 12 lbs. of Camwood. * Sadden with 4 ozs. of Copperas. No. 14. 66 lbs. OF WOOL.— FAWN DRAB. Boil with 4 ozs. of Logwood. 1} lbs. of Barwood. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Alum. Get out when boiled to the shade, and spread. No. 15. TO lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK FAWN DRAB. Boil with 3 lbs. of Barwood. 3J lbs. of Fustic. 8 ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. 34 WOOL-DYEING. No. 16. 170 lbs. OF WOOL.— MADDER DRAB. Boil with 3J lbs. of Barwood. 3 lbs. of Fustic. 3 lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. No. 17. 56 lbs. OF WOOL.— FULLER SHADE OF MADDER DRAB. Boil with 2J lbs. of Barwood. 3J lbs. of Fustic. 8 ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. No. 18. 56 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK SHADE OF MADDER DRAB. Boil with 4 lbs. of Barwood. 5 lbs. of Fustic. 2 lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 3 lbs. of Copperas. WOOL-DYEING. 35 • No. 19. 150 lbs. OF WOOL.— BLUE SLATE COLOR. Stuff or Boil with 5 lbs. of Logwood. 8 ozs. of Fustic. Boil one hour and sadden with 12 ozs. of Alum. No. 20. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— CRANE BLUE. ♦ % Stuff with 16 lbs. of Logwood, boil f of an hour. Sadden with 1J lb. of Alum, and boil to pattern. No. 21. 90 lbs. OF WOOL.— FANCY BLOOM. Boil one hour with 8 ozs. of Cudbear. If lb. of Logwood. 1J lb. of Barwood. Sadden with 1 lb. of Alum. No. 22. 70 lbs. OF WOOL.— SILVER DRAB. Stuff with 10 ozs. of Logwood. 8 ozs. of Camwood. Sadden with 3 ozs. of Copperas. 36 WOOL-DYEING. No. 23. • 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— REDDER SHADE OF SILVER DRAB. Stuff with 18 ozs. of Logwood. 10 ozs. of Cudbear. 3 ozs. of Copperas. No. 24. 60 lbs. OF WOOL.— A VERY LIGHT SHADE OF DRAB. Dye with 1 oz. of Chemic or good Extract. 4 ozs. of Alum. 10 ozs. of Logwood. 1 oz. of Copperas. Boil one hour. No. 25. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT DRAB, YEL- LOWER SHADE THAN No. 24. Dye with 6 ozs. of Fustic. 3 ozs. of Logwood. 2 ozs. of Sumach. J oz. of Chemic. 8 ozs. of Alum. 2 ozs. of Copperas. WOOL-DYEING. 37 I * No. 26. 70 lbs. OF WOOL.— VICUNA DRAB. Stuff with 5 lbs. of Fustic. 5 lbs. of Mull Madder. 5 lbs. of Crop Madder. 3 lbs. of Camw T ood. Sadden with 7 ozs. of Copperas. No. 27. 50 lbs. OF WOOL.— REDDER SHADE OF VICUNA. Stuff with 5 lbs. of Fustic. 5 lbs. of Mull Madder. 1 lb. of Crop Madder. 2J lbs. of Camwood. Sadden with 7 ozs. of Copperas. These are shades somewhat of the California color. 4 38 . WOOL-DYEING. . > No. 28. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— FINE RED LAVENDER. Stuff with 5 lbs. of Logwood. 3 lbs. of Cudbear. 8 ozs. of Camwood. # Sadden with 10 oz. of Copperas. When shades are not required so bright, but rather of a flat and dead lavender, add a little Fustic in the stuffing. No. 29. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT OLIVE. Stuff with 40 lbs. of Fustic. 3 lbs. of Logwood. 2 lbs. of Camwood. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas. No. 30. 120 lbs. OF WOOL.— GREENER OLIVE. Stuff with T lbs. of Fustic. * 5 lbs. of Logwood. 5 lbs. of Mull Madder. 6 ozs. of Camwood. Sadden with 12 ozs. of Copperas. WOOL-DYEING. 89 No. 31. 120 lbs. OF WOOL— REDDER SHADE OF OLIVE. Stuff with 30 lbs. of Fustic. 20 lbs. of Camwood. 20 lbs. of Mull Madder. 7 lbs. of Crop Madder. 20 ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 20 ozs. of Copperas. No. 32. 135 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK OLIVE. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic. 2 ozs. of Alum. 7J lbs. of Logwood. 10 lbs. of Madder. Sadden with 1J lb. of Copperas. J lb. of Blue Vitriol. No. 33. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER GREEN OLIVE. Stuff with 50 lbs. of Fustic. 4 lbs. of Camwood 9 lbs. of Logwood. Boil well for an hour and a half. Sadden with 1 lb. of Alum. 2 lbs. of Copperas. Boil well in the saddening. 40 WOOL-DYEING. , No. 84. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK GREEN OLIVE, CHROMED. Prepare or boil an hour with 1J lb. of Chrome. 12 ozs. of Alum. Then spread it on the floor all night, and next morning Fill up with 45 lbs. of Fustic. 12 lbs. of Camwood. 6 lbs. of Logwood. This shade of Olive is similar to that of No. 38, but dyed in quite a different manner. Some dyers think that the latter mode is the better and the faster color, but I think it is not so durable as the former. The Olive shades are mostly dyed according to one of these two modes, but neither can be called fast Olives. The Fast Olive is dyed by being first dyed Blue in the Woad vat, and then filled up after in the following manner : — WOOL-DYEING. 41 No. 85. 12 stones OF WOOL.— TRUE OLIVE. After blueing to about a middle shade in the Woad vat, Stuff with 100 lbs. of Fustic. 20 lbs. of Logwood. 3 lbs. of Madder. 2J lbs. of Alum. Sadden with 2J lbs. of Copperas. Darker or lighter shades may be dyed by blue- ing darker or lighter in the vat, according to shade required. Any shade of true Olive may be dyed after this manner, even down to a Sage Drab, by blueing light enough in the Woad vat. No. 36. 80 lbs. OF WOOL.— V ANT COLOR, NEARLY CANARY COLOR. Prepare with 1 lb. of Chrome. 8 ozs. of Alum. Boil an hour, get the wool out, and let it drain well, then fill up in a vessel of clean water, with 20 lbs. of Chipped Fustic. Boil half an hour. 4 * 42 WOOL- DYEING. If a redder shade is required, add a little Bar- wood, as it will cause it to have more of an Orange hue. This is not Canary color, which is dyed with Bark or Young Fustic; nor is it so lively, but re- sembles the light shade of California color. No. 37. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT BROWN. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic. 30 lbs. of Camwood. Boil two hours, then sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas, and spread. No. 38. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— MIDDLE BROWN. Stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic. 30 lbs. of Camwood. 1 lb. of Logwood. Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. WOOL-DYEING. 43 No. 39. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER BROWN. Stuff with 45 lbs. of Fustic. 20 lbs. of Camwood. 1J lb. of Logwood. Sadden with 1J lb. of Copperas. These are good Browns, and will stand Milling, but the Browns dyed first in the Woad vat are more permanent. No. 40. 90 lbs. OF WOOL.— TRUE BROWN. First blue a light shade in the Woad vat, then stuff with 60 lbs. of Fustic. 10 lbs. of Madder. 2 or 3 lbs. of Camwood. 4 ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. 4 ozs. of Blue Vitriol. Either lighter or darker shades of Browns may be dyed after this mode; by dyeing in vat accord- ing to shade, darker Blue for darker Browns, and lighter Blues for lighter Browns, or by adding more or less Logwood in the Stuffing, and more or less Copperas in the saddening. 44 WOOL-DYEING. No. 41. 160 lbs. OF WOOL.— LIGHT GREEN. Dye off with 40 lbs. of Fustic. 2 quarts of Chemic. 4 lbs. of Argol. 8 lbs. of Alum. Boil one hour. This is a good bright Green. Darker shades of Green may be dyed by adding more Chemic. No. 42. TO lbs. OF WOOL.— MOSS GREEN. This color may be dyed by means of the Chrom- ing process, and filling up with Fustic and Log- wood; but as by this mode it is not fast, the pro- per mode is to blue it in the vat first to shade, and then stuff with 50 lbs. of Fustic. 5 lbs. of Madder. 8 ozs. of Logwood. 2 lbs. of Camwood. Sadden with 4 ozs. of Copperas. 2 ozs. of Blue Vitriol. It is difficult to distinguish between the true Green and the other, as such a near resemblance can be produced by the former mode. Nearly all WOOL-DYEING. 45 the shades of Green, from this up to the Invisible, and all the various shades of bottle Green may be dyed either with the yellow or blue hue upon them, and will appear equally as good, and can only be distinguished by a test of strong sulphuric acid. No. 43. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— A GOOD BOTTLE GREEN, CHROMED. Boil one hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. 2 lbs. of Alum. Finish in a vessel of clean water with 30 lbs. of Fustic. 15 lbs. of Logwood. Boil an hour in the finishing. No. 44. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— INVISIBLE GREEN, CHROMED. Prepare same as No. 43, and finish the same, only add more Logwood and less Fustic. Say, 20 lbs. of Fustic. 30 lbs. of Logwood. All the various shades of rifles may be dyed after this manner. I will next give a receipt for the true Green. 46 WOOL-DYEING. No. 45. 24 stones OF WOOL.— BOTTLE GREEN, TRUE COLOR. After dyeing a dark Indigo Blue in the vat, boil 2 hours with 80 lbs. of Fustic. 40 lbs. of Logwood. 8 ozs. of Alum. / The Invisible is dyed after the same manner, but still darker; the real fast Green is dyed en- tirely without Logwood. No. 46. 12 stones OF WOOL.— VIOLET OR MULBERRY. After being blued to a dark blue in the vat, Boil one hour with 100 lbs. of Logwood. 10 lbs. of Alum. 5 lbs. of Argol. Then fish up and add 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin; if not dark enough, add more Logwood, and boil half an hour more. The Plum color, Mul- berry, and Adelaide have been dyed upon this mode for the true colors ; but the better mode is that of Chroming first, the same as for Black and other colors, and then redden and darken with WOOL-DYEING. 47 Cudbear and Logwood, as any shade of darkness may be got by adding more Logwood, and then putting it through the vat. These would be faster colors, and have more solidity about them. No. 47. 180 lbs. OF WOOL.— FINE CLARET. Boil two hours with 70 lbs. of Camwood or Sanders. 1 lb. of Logwood. Sadden with 2J lbs. of Copperas. No. 48. 140 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARKER CLARET. Boil two hours with 70 lbs. of Camwood. Then take up and let it drain an hour or two, and Sadden with 3 lbs. of Copperas. 8 lbs. of Logwood. No. 49. 180 lbs. OF WOOL.— RUSSIAN BROWN. Stuff with 20 lbs. of Fustic. 40 lbs. of red Sanders. Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. 1 lb. of Alum. 48 WOOL-DYEING. No. 50. 240 lbs. OF WOOL.— DARK BROWN. Stuff with 130 lbs. of Fustic. 10 lbs. of Crop Madder. 50 lbs. of Camwood. 4 lbs. of Logwood. Boil two hours, then sadden with 10 lbs. of Cop- peras. Smother all night. No. 51, A. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— LAC SCARLET. Dye with 2 lbs. of Brown Tartar. 1 lb. of Young Fustic. 4 lbs. of Lac. 2 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil one hour. No. 51, B. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— FULL PINK. Dye with 2 lbs. of Tartar. 1 lb. of Alum. 2 lbs. of Cochineal paste. 2 pints of Spirits. Boil one hour. WOOL-DYEING. 49 No. 52. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— WINE COLOR. Dye off with 6 lbs. of Cudbear. If a Blue shade is wanted, add a little Ammonia, and if a Redder shade, a little Spirits of Salts. No. 53. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 3 lbs. of Prussiate. 3 quarts of Blue Spirits. The wool must be entered cold, and the liquor heated up to a boil as soon as possible; and when boiled half an hour, take it out and add two pints of Finishing Spirits. If a darker shade is re- quired, add Logwood according to shade with the Finishing Spirits; or it is preferable to add the Logwood at the beginning with the Prussiate for Wools. Royal Blues that have to stand Milling and Steaming should always have as much Ammonia as Blue Spirits at the beginning, as it makes them much firmer and cleaner. 5 50 WOOL-DYEING. No. 54. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye with 2 lbs. of Cochineal paste. 1 lb. of dry Cochineal. 2 pints of Spirits. 2 lbs. of Tartar. Boil one hour. No. 55. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— GRAIN SCARLET. Dye with 2 lbs. of Tartar. 1J- lb. of Dry Cochineal. 3 pints of Spirits. 2 lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil one hour. No. 56. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— FULL YELLOW. Dye with 1 lb. of Tartar. 1 lb. of Alum. 4 lbs. of Bark. 2 lbs. of Young Fustic. 2 pints of Spirits. Boil twenty minutes. WOOL-DYEING. 51 No. 57. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— ORANGE. Dye with 8 ozs. of Cochineal. 7 lbs. of Young Fusti'c. 1 lb. of Tartar. 2 pints of Spirits. No. 58. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— CANARY COLOR. Dye with 1J lb. of Bark. 1 lb. of Tartar. 1 lb. of Alum. 1 quart of Spirit. Boil twenty minutes. No. 59. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— SKY BLUE. Dye with J a gill of Liquid Extract. 1 lb. of Argol. 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil twenty minutes. m, A. 52 WOOL-DYEING. No. 60. 20 lbs. OF WOOL.— SAXONY BLUE. Dye with 1 pint of Liquid Extract. 1 lb. of Argol. 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil twenty minutes. COTTON-DYEING. No. 1. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BUFF. After being boiled and properly wet, run through a clear Lime Liquor, then through a weak Cop- peras Liquor, both cold liquor; repeat in each liquor until the shade be full enough. Another mode of dying Buff is : — No. 2. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BUFF. Run the Cotton through Nitrate of Iron, at about 4° Twaddell, and then through a weak Am- monia Liquor in another tub; repeat in each until the shade be full enough. Both these are firm Buff colors. 5 * 54 COTTON-DYEING. No. 3. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BUFF, OR NANKIN. Shave 4 lbs. of Spanish Annotta into 30 gal- lons of water, to which add 2 lbs. of Pearlash ; boil it well up, let it settle, and drain off the clear Liquor ; run the Cotton in this Liquor until you get the shade required. All the various shades of light Buffs, Nankin colors, and Straw colors as well, may be dyed from Annotta by adding little enough of it for the shade. The fine Straw colors which have a yellow tinge have bleached bottoms, that is, they are first bleached, and then dyed in the following manner: — No. 4. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— STRAW COLOR. After being bleached, boil or scald, as may be convenient, 1C lbs. of Fustic in 10 gallons of water, with a few lbs. of Alum, and add clear Liquor according to shade, in a tub of cold water. If fuller shades are wanted, add a little Alum Liquor. The most lively colors of this class are dyed after this manner for two-colored Damasks, and other goods that are made up with Silk weft. COTTON-DYEING. 55 No. 5. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FLESH COLOR. In a tub of Cold Water, add 2 gallons of spent Annotta, and 1 gallon of Turmeric Liquor; the Turmeric must be boiled up with a little Alum, about 4 ozs. to the gallon of water. A great variety of shades of this color may be dyed by adding more of the one and less of the other of the two ingredients, Annotta and Tur- meric. No. 6. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SAFFLOWER PINK. Squeeze the Liquor from 4 lbs. of Safflower into a tub; give 10 turns in cold water. If the shade be too blue, add about 1 tot of Oil of Vi- triol, and give it a few turns more. Nearly the same shade may be dyed upon bleached cotton in the following manner : — First steep it in 4 lbs. of Sumach in a tub, after which it must be spirited in a tub of cold water, with either Muriate or Nitromuriate of Tin. The Liquor must stand at 2° Twaddell. Then add to another tub of cold water 5 lbs. of spent Peachwood. To spend the Peachwood, let it boil a few minutes, or be well scalded, and so with all the other woods. 56 COTTON-DYEING. No. 7. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT PINK. This shade is dyed in the same manner as No. 6, with the exception of having less Sumach and Peachwood ; of Sumach, 2 lbs. instead of 4 lbs., and of Peachwood, 2J lbs. instead of 5 lbs. No. 8. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SCARLET. It must be first steeped in 4 lbs. of Sumach, then spirited with Muriate of Tin, at 2° Twaddell, and then dyed with 2 lbs. of Peachwood and 8 lbs. of Bark, previously spent; let the Liquor be luke- warm. Give 10 turns, and then wash off for the stove. If a Yellower shade of Scarlet is required, add more bark : if a Bluer shade, less Bark ; if a lighter shade of Scarlet, add less of both Peach- wood and Bark ; and if a darker shade of Scarlet is required, add more of both Peachwood and Bark. COTTON-DYEING. 57 No. 9. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT CINNAMON BROWN. Boil up 2 lbs. of Yellow Catechu with 2 gallons of Water, add to it 4 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, and let it boil twenty minutes. In another vessel dissolve 8 ozs. of Chrome, and keep it at the boiling heat ; run the Cotton in the Catechu first, give 8 turns, wring out, enter the Chrome tub, give 8 turns more, wring out, and wash off for the stove. No. 10. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARKER SHADE OF LIGHT BROWN. . This shade is dyed the same as No. 9, with the exception of having 2 lbs. of Black Catechu in- stead of 2 lbs. of Yellow. When the shade is not Yellow enough, add to the Catechu a little Fustic, or Turmeric, which is preferable. Any shade of Cinnamon Brown may be dyed by varying the Catechu and Turmeric, giving more of the one and less of the other, ac- cording to the shade required. 58 COTTON-DYEING. No. 11. 20 lbs. 0 : F COTTON.— DARK SHADES OF BROWN. These shades must he first steeped in Sumach, then saddened with a little Copperas Liquor in another tub, and a little Urine amongst it, and then dyed in all respects the same as the other two Browns. No. 12. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— CHROME YELLOW. Dissolve 8 ozs. of White Sugar of Lead in one tub, and 8 ozs. of Chrome in another ; enter the tub with the Sugar of Lead first, cold, give five turns, and then enter the Chrome, and give five turns, and wring out ; enter the other tub again, give five turns more, and then wash off for the stove. No. 13. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARKER SHADE OF CHROMED YELLOW. Dissolve 8 ozs. of Brown Sugar of Lead and 8 ozs. of Chrome, each in a separate tub ; enter the Sugar of Lead first, give 6 ends, then enter the Chrome, give G turns in it; repeat three times in COTTON-DYEING. 59 the Sugar of Lead tub, and twice in the Chrome ; wash off out of the Sugar of Lead tub for the stove. No. 14. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL CHROME ORANGE. First make up a tub of Cold Water, to which add 4 pailfuls of Lime Lee, or clear Lime Water, enter the Cotton and turn four rounds; dissolve 4 lbs. of Brown Sugar of Lead in 6 quarts of water ; in another tub of cold water add 2 quarts of this solution, enter the cotton, give three turns, squeeze out. Enter into another tub of clear lime water, give three turns in this, and in each of the two last tubs, repeat three times, adding to the first tub 1 quart of the solution, and to the other fresh Lime Liquor each time before you enter. Then dissolve 2 lbs. of Chrome in 4 quarts of water, make up a tub at about 20°, and add 2 quarts of the Chrome Liquor; enter the Cotton into this, give three turns, and wring it out ; then enter the Sugar of Lead tub, and add 1 quart more of the solution that is left, repeat three times, and add 1 quart of the solution each time, and finish out of the Chrome. In this state it will appear very uneven, as the 60 COTTON-DYEING. atmosphere affects it very much, but will become even in the raising of it, w T hich is done as fol- lows: Into a pan or vessel of any sort with an open top, add 7 pailfuls of clear Lime Water, bring it just up to the spring and scum it well, do not let it boil, after scumming cool down a little, enter the cotton and give 5 turns. Be careful not to add too much Lime Water, or it will de- stroy the beauty of the color. This color, like some others, will feel rather rough, and therefore must be run through a little softening, which is made as follows : dissolve 8 ozs. of Pearlash or Soda in 1 gallon of warm Water, to which add 1 pint of Fish Oil, mix it well together, and give it a little of it in a tub of warm water. No. 15. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST DRAB. Boil up 6 lbs. of Mahogany Sawdust. Draw the clear Liquor into a tub, and give 5 turns. Raise in the same Liquor with 1 gill of Nitrate of Iron. The Drabs dyed this way are very fast, and a great variety of Shades may be dyed by adding more or less of the wood according to Shade. COTTON-DYEING. 61 No. 16. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST BLUE. To a tub of Cold Water and 1 lb. of Copperas dissolved. f of a Noggin of Muriatic Acid. Give 5 turns and wring out. To another Tub of Cold Water add 8 ozs. of dissolved Prussiate. Give 5 turns and take up. Add about 1 Noggin of Oil of Vitriol. Give 5 turns more and wash off for the Stove. No. IT. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LAVENDER. To a tub of Cold Water add 2 lbs. of Logwood previously scalded, and use only the clear Liquor. Add to it 1 lb. of Alum. Enter and give 6 or 8 turns. Lift up and add 8 ozs. of Sweet Extract. 2 lbs. more Alum. Give 6 turns, and if a Redder Shade is required, add more Logwood Liquor, and if Bluer, more Extract. 6 62 COTTON-DYEING. No. 18. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LILAC. To a tub of Cold Water add 8 lbs. of Log- wood. 1J lb. of Alum, or a little Red Liquor, which is preferable in this class of colors ; give 6 or 8 turns. Lighter or darker Shades may be dyed by adding more or less Logwood. No. 19. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SILVER DRAB. In a tub of Cold Water, add about 4 ozs. of Log- wood, and 1 quart of clear Lime Water ; give about 8 turns, and wash off for the stove. No. 20. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— GOOD LIGHT DRIB. In a tub of Cold Water add \ an oz. of Log- wood, and 1 lb. of Fustic; give 10 turns, then lift up, and add 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, and give 8 turns more, then wash off for the stove. COTTON-DYEING. 63 No. 21. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULLER SHADE OF No. 20. In all respects dye the same, but add double the quantity of both Fustic and Logwood. No. 22. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT OLIVE. ' In a tub of Cold Water, add 5 lbs. of Fustic, previously scalded, and 1J lb. of Logwood; give 10 turns, then lift up, and raise by adding 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol; give 10 turns more, and wash off for the stove. No. 23. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARKER OLIVE. In a tub of Cold Water, add 4 lbs. of Sumach ; % steep in this for an hour. Sadden in another tub of Cold Water, with 2 lbs. of dissolved Copperas, give 8 turns, wring out, enter another tub of warm w^ater with 4 a pailful of Urine. Then dye in another tub with 6 lbs. of Fustic, and raise in the same liquor with 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol. 64 COTTON-DYEING. No. 24. 24 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARK OLIVE. Dark shades of Olive are dyed same as No. 83, but adding with the Fustic a little Logwood, according to the shade of darkness, and when not Yellow enough, add a little more Fustic Liquor, or Turmeric Liquor, which is preferable for dark colors. No. 25. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL YELLOW DRAB. In a tub of Warm Water, add 8 ozs. of Tur- meric, 4 ozs. of Logwood, and 8 lbs. of Fustic; raise in the same Liquor with 2| lbs. of Alum. Give 10 turns before and 10 turns after sadden- ing, and wash off for the stove. No. 26. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT BUFF. In a tub of Cold Water, add a little Nitrate of Iron ; give 10 turns, lift up, and raise with a little lime water and a little potash in the same liquor ; give a few turns more, and wash off. COTTON-DYEING. G5 No. 27. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT BLUE. Run through the Copperas Vat one end. How to dye the same shade with Extract: — In a tub of Cold Water, add 10 ozs. of Sweet Extract, and 2 lbs. of Alum. Various shades of Light Blue may be dyed with Extract, by adding more or less, according to shade required. Give 10 turns, and then dry off. No. 28. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT EXTRACT GREEN. In a tub of Water at about 100°, add 8 ozs. of Turmeric, previously scalded ; give 10 turns, lift up, and add 4 lbs. of Alum and 1 lb. of Extract, enter again, and give 10 turns more, and then wash off for the stove. Various shades of Green may be dyed after this manner by adding Extract according to shade. The Extract must be well mixed before it is used. Greens of this dye are not so permanent as those with a Copperas Vat Blue Bottom. 6 * 66 COTTON-DYEING. No. 29. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— MIDDLE SHADE OF GREEN. First run the Cotton through the Copperas Vat, and get a moderate shade of Blue, after which wash it well. In another tub add 15 lbs. of scalded Fustic; enter the Cotton, and give 10 turns, lift up, add 4 lbs. of Alum, and give 10 turns more. If the shade is required bluer, add more Ex- tract in the same Liquor. No. 30. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARK SHADE OF GREEN. Dark shades of Green must have a darker Blue bottom, and are dyed in all respects the same as No. 29. No. 31. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— CHROMED AND FAST GREENS. Blue according to the shade required in the Copperas Yat, for light shade of Green. In a tub of Cold Water add 1 lb. of Sugar of Lead, COTTON-DYEING. 67 enter the Cotton, and give 5 ends ; in another tub of Hot Water add 1 lb. of melted Chrome, give five turns, wring out, repeat twice, and finish off' in the Sugar of Lead, and then wash olf for the stove. Dark Chromed Greens are dyed darker in the Copperas Yat first, and have about one-half more Chrome, and are dyed in all respects the same as light Greens. No. 32. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— LIGHT CATECHU BROWN. Spend 3 lbs. of Catechu with 3 ozs. of Blue Vitriol ; put this into a tub of Warm Water, enter the cotton, give 8 turns, wring out, and enter an- other tub of Hot Water with 8 ozs. of Chrome, at the boiling point ; give 6 ends, and then wash off for the stove. No. 33. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARKER CATECHU BROWN. In a tub of Hot Water, add 4 lbs. of Catechu, give 6 turns ; in another tub of Hot Water, add 8 ozs. of Chrome, enter, give five turns, wash out, and repeat once more in each tub, and then wash oft' for the stove. 68 COTTON-DYEING. No. 34. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— DARK CATECHU BROWN. Spend 8 lbs. of Catechu with 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, enter the cotton, and for convenience let it stay in it all night, after giving it a few turns. Then in another tub of Hot Water add 1 lb. of Chrome, enter and give a few turns, wash out of the Chrome, and repeat twice or three times. No. 35. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL DARK CATE- CHU BROWN. A darker class of colors may be dyed by using one-half of Yellow Catechu and one-half of the Black Catechu, and for very Red shades use all Black Catechu. If very dark shades are required, they must be first Sumached and Saddened, and then dyed in the same way. No. 36. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL YELLOW SCARLET. Scald 4 lbs. of Sumach, and add it to a tub of Cold Water, and steep the cotton in it for a few COTTON-DYEING. 69 hours. Make up another tub of Cold Water, and add Nitromuriate of Tin until it stands at 2° Twaddell, enter the cotton into this and give about ten turns. In another tub, add 4 lbs. of Peachwood and 1 lb. of Turmeric, both previously spent, enter the cotton, give 10 turns, and raise in the same Liquor, with 2 lbs. of Alum; let the Liquor be at about 100° Twaddell. No. 37. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BARWOOD RED. In a tub of Cold Water add 5 lbs. of Sumach, give a few turns and steep in it all night. In an- other tub of Cold Water add Spirits until it stands at 3° Twaddell, give eight turns, wash in Cold Water, and Warm also. Then in a Copper or Block Tin Vessel add 20 lbs. of Barwood, boil up 15 minutes before the cotton is put in, then cool down a little and enter the cotton, bring it up to a spring boil and turn it on until it comes up to the shade, say about an hour. No. 38. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— IMITATION OF TURKEY RED. This color is dved the same as Barwood Red, except when it has boiled about an hour, take out 70 COTTON-DYEING. of the vessel and add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, and boil it a short time longer. The oil will give it a much bluer appearance, and will very much imi- tate the Turkey Red. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by add- ing more or less of the Barwood. No. 39. VARIOUS SHADES OF SILVER DRAB. A good Silver Drab of a very light color may be dyed by first giving a few turns in a little Gall Liquor, and then lift up and add a little Nitrate of Iron, and give a few turns more, and wash off for the stove. A few Valonias will produce nearly the same effect, but not quite so fine a shade. The Valo- nias must be boiled with a little water to get the strength out of them. A great variety of Blue Drabs can be dyed by first Sumaching the cotton, and then in another tub add a little Nitrate of Iron or Copperas liquor, and give a few turns. By adding more Iron or Copperas liquor the shades may be dyed up to dark Slate color, and by adding a little Ammonia, a class of Redder shades may be dyed, and Yel- lower by adding a little Fustic. COTTON- DYEING. 71 No. 40. VARIOUS SHADES OF FAWN DRAES. A great variety of Fawn Drabs may be dyed by adding to a tub of Cold Water a little Catechu, and then a little more according to shades re- quired ; and when flatter shades are w T anted, add a little Copperas Liquor, which will sadden it. Almost any variety of shade may be dyed after this manner. Then another class of heavier shades must have a little Sumach with the Catechu, and be saddened with a little Nitrate of Iron, or Copperas Liquor. No. 41. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— GOOD BLACK. In a tub of Cold Water add 5 lbs. of Sumach, give a few turns and steep it all night in the Sumach ; then in another tub of cold water add a few pails of Lime Water wring out, in another tub of Cold Water add 2 lbs. of dissolved Cop- peras, and a pailful of the old Sumach liquor, enter and give 6 turns, then wring out, enter the lime tub again, and give 2 pails more Lime liquor, then scald 6 lbs. of Logwood and 1 lb. of Fustic, add this to another tub of Water, enter the cotton and give 10 turns, lift up, and sadden with a little Copperas in the same liquor. 72 COTTON-DYEING. No. 42. 20 lbs. OF COTTON. — A GOOD BLACK TO STAND MILLING AND SCOURING. Steep all night with 6 lbs. of Sumach, pass through Lime liquor, and sadden with Copperas as before; repeat in each of the last two tubs, adding more lime and Copperas to each, pass through Logwood and wash off. Both the last blacks must be softened with a little Oil and Soda Ash. No. 43. FAST BLACK. This Black is first dyed in the Copperas vat, and must have a good Blue bottom, and be dyed in all respects same as No. 42. No. 44. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST PURPLE. This color must have a blue bottom in the Copperas vat, and afterwards it must have a few turns in a tub of Cold Water with a little Muriate of Tin, at 2° Twaddell. In another tub of Water add 4 or 5 lbs. of Logwood, previously spent, enter the cotton and give 8 turns. This is the COTTON-DYEING. 73 best purple that can be dyed, possessing a very bright appearance. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by add- ing more or less Logwood according to shade. No. 45. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FAST LAVENDER. Lavender Shades are dyed the same as No. 44, but are dyed a much lighter blue in the vat, and with less Logwood in the filling up. These are decidedly the best shades of Laven- der that can be dyed, especially for warps which have to be made up with white weft ; they will stand any reasonable quantity of Acid, and are much better for the Piece-Dyer. No. 46. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SKY BLUE. The various shades of light Blues are dyed in the Copperas vat ; they can be varied almost to any shade by passing them oftener through. These shades are much better than the Chinese Blues, which will not stand passing through warm- water without washing off. 7 74 COTTON-DYEING. No. 47. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BARK YELLOW. Boil 10 lbs. of Bark in a bag in a vessel of Water for fifteen minutes ; take out the bag, and add to the liquor 1 quart of Muriate of Tin, cool down, enter the cotton, and give it 6 turns sharp- ly; if not full enough, take it out and add 1 gill more spirit. No. 48. OTHER YELLOWS. Perhaps the Turmeric Yellow is the cheapest of any, but it is not so permanent as that dyed with Bark or Fustic, and nothing like the Chrome Yellow; though almost any shade of Yellow may be dyed upon cotton, by first boiling in a little Water a very small quantity of Sulphuric Acid, or a little Alum, and using only the clear liquor ; 2 or 3 lbs. will dye a fair shade of Yellow upon 20 lbs. of Cotton. No. 49. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— PEACIIWOOD RED. Scald 5 lbs. of Sumach, and steep the cotton in it all night. In a tub of Cold Water, add about COTTON-DYEING. 75 1 quart of Spirits, give 10 turns in this, and wash ; then scald 5 lbs. of Peachwood, in which liquor work the cotton until you get the shade required. If a lighter shade is wanted, add less Peach- wood. No. 50. CRIMSONS AND PINKS. Various shades of Crimsons and Pinks may be dyed in the following manner : — First Spirit at about 6° Twaddell, and then enter the Peachwood in quantity according to shade required, whether Crimson or Pink. This is the quickest way they can be dyed, ex- cept by adding both the Spirits and the Wood together, which ^ill answer equally as well. After dyeing a good Crimson, a variety of Pinks may be dyed in the same Liquor, by giving about G or 8 turns in it. No. 51. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— CLARETS. For a full Claret, steep the Cotton in 5 lbs. of Sumach all night, then Spirit in another tub at about 2° Twaddell ; then wash, scald 3 or 4 lbs. of Logwood, add this to a tub of Warm Water, 76 COTTON-DYEING. give 8 turns, lift up, throw out the old Liquor, and add as much more Logwood ; give 8 ends more, and raise in the same Liquor, with a little Alum. Lighter shades are dyed in the same manner, but must have less Wood. When Redder shades are required, add a little Peachwood and Logwood. No. 52. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— RUBY. Sumach as for Claret, and Spirit the same, then boil up 6 lbs. of Sapanwood in a few gallons of Water ; strain off the Liquor, and put it into a tub of Warm Water, give 10 turns and raise with a little Alum. No. 53. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— PLUM COLOR. Prepare with Sumach and Spirits, as before, then boil up 5 lbs. of Logwood and 2 lbs. of Peachwood, or it may be scalded and strained into a tub, to render the liquor clear; give 10 ends, and raise with a little Alum in the same liquor; give 6 ends, and wash off. COTTON-DYEING. 77 No. 54. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— MAROON. This color may be dyed in the same manner as No. 52, using Peachwood instead of Sapanwood. The best mode of dyeing it is by first Sumaching with 5 lbs. of Sumach, and then saddening with 2 lbs. of Copperas, or a little Nitrate of Iron, which is preferable ; then wash and enter a tub with 6 lbs. of Peachwood, give 10 turns, lift up, and add 1 pint of Spirits to the same Liquor to raise with ; or raise in another tub with Spirits ; by adding a little more Spirits, the brightest and fullest Crimson may be dyed, and will stand wearing much better than some other modes of dyeing the same color. No. 55. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— BLUE PURPLE. In a tub of Cold Water add 5 lbs. of Sumach, / steep in this all night, if convenient ; then in another tub spirit with 1 pint of Spirits, and wash out of the spirit tub; then enter another tub with 4 or 5 lbs. of Logwood, give 8 turns, lift up, add 8 ozs. of Tin Crystals, give 8 turns more and wash off. 7* 78 COTTON-DYEING. No. 56. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FULL PURPLE. First Sumach, then sadden with Copperas, wash out of the Copperas, then scald 5 lbs. of Logwood in another tub, and give 10 turns ; it will now be a good black, but must be raised with a pint of Spirits in the same tub. Purple w’arps dyed on this principle are very good and permanent. No. 57. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— SAXON BLUE. This color may be dyed in the Copperas vat, but not so bright as with Prussiate of Potash. To dye with Prussiate it must be first ironed or turned in a tub of Cold Water with about 1 quart of Nitrate of Iron until it becomes a light buff ; it must then pass through weak Ammonia in an- other tub, then wash it ; dissolve about 1 lb. of Prussiate and add it to another tub of Cold Water, give about ten turns, then lift up, and add 1 nog- gin of Oil of Vitriol, enter again, and give 10 turns, and wash off for the Stove. For darker shades add more Prussiate. COTTON-DYEING. 79 No. 58. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— FLAT ROYAL BLUE. This color is first dyed in the Copperas vat, and then dyed in the same way as No. 57, so that by having a vat blue bottom it takes less Prussiate. No. 59. 20 lbs. OF COTTON. — BRIGHT ROYAL BLUE. In the first tub make up a decoction of Nitrate of Iron, at 3^ Twaddell, about 3 pints, give 6 turns ; in another tub of Water add 3 lbs. of dis- solved Prussiate, give G turns, lift up, and add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, give 6 turns more. To the tub with the Iron in, add 1 lb. of Tin Crystals, pass through the Iron 4 times, and through the Prussiate 3 times. No. 60. VICTORIA BLUE. This color is dyed in most respects same as No. 59, but with this difference, the Crystals of Tin are added to the Iron at the beginning, and the Oil of Vitriol is not added until the last time 80 COTTON-DYEING. in the Prussiate. There is little difference in these two blues ; the latter may be somewhat more bloomy. No. 61. 20 lbs. OF COTTON.— NAPOLEON BLUE. This is the most bloomy shade that has yet been produced upon Cotton Fabrics or Cotton Yarns. In the first place add 1 quart of Mu- riate of Tin to a tub of cold water, enter the cotton and give 8 turns; in another tub add the clear liquor from 4 lbs. of Logwood, then add to another tub of cold water 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron, and 2 lbs. of Crystals of Tin, enter the cot- ton and give * 6 turns, then in another tub add 3 lbs. of melted Prussiate, enter this and give 6 turns, repeat 2 or 3 times ; then to the Prus- siate add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, pass through, and wash off for the Stove. No. 62. ON BLEACHING COTTON. The Warps or Yarns are first steeped in Pearl- ash Liquor, at boiling point, to soften the grease and dirt. Some Bleachers wash out in warm Pearlash Liquor, after which they are passed through a solution of Chloride of Lime ; then COTTON-DYEING. 81 they are washed in more Pearlash water. Both these processes are repeated until the goods be- come sufficiently White ; they are then taken and boiled in a weak solution of Pearlash and White Soap, which removes all smell of the Chlo- rine, and gives to the Cotton a beautiful white- ness. A much readier way of Bleaching is that of steeping the cotton as in the former mode, and then passing it through Chloride of Lime and Oil of Vitriol until it assumes a good white appear- ance. Care must be taken not to use too much Oil of Vitriol, as that would have a tendency to destroy the strength of the fabric. No. 68. HOW TO SPEND CATECHU. Let it be well boiled with 1 or 2 ozs. of Blue Vitriol to every pound of Catechu, and about 10 times its weight of water. No. 64. HOW TO MAKE THE SPIRITS FOR COTTON-DYEING PURPOSES. Add 1 lb. of Aqua Fortis to 5 lbs. of Spirits of Salts, and kill them with about 2| ozs. of Tin to the pound. The Tin may be all added at first either in a bottle or in a jar. 82 COTTON-DYEING. No. 65. ON STEEPING. Warps and Hanks should be well wet before they are dyed, or they will not dye even; they should be steeped in boiling water for a few hours at least, or boiled, if convenient, so as to penetrate through every thread. No. 66. HOW TO SPEND ANNOTTA. It must be well boiled with about 1 gallon of water to the pound, and } lb. of Pearlashes. No.. 67. HOW TO SPEND TURMERIC FOR COTTON-DYEING. * It must be boiled up with water, and much of the strength will bleed out of it without acid or alkali ; but about 8 ozs. of Alum to 1 lb. of Tur- meric is generally used. Pearlash will bleed more strength out of it, but it will not dye so bright and clear a Yellow, but it will be more of the Olive cast. COTTON-DYEING. 83 No. 68. ✓ HOW TO SPEND SAFFLOWER. In the first place put the quantity required into a bag, and steep it in water for a few hours to soften it, then it must be trodden well and rinsed again in the Water, and so on repeatedly until all the Yellow coloring matter is extracted, as it is of no use whatever to dyers; then the flowers will have a bright crimson appearance, and must be put to steep in cold water sufficient to cover them, and to every pound of Flower there must be added 8 ozs. of Pearlash, previously dissolved, and after- wards well mixed amongst the flowers so as to extract all the Red coloring matter from them; it will take a few hours to do this ; it must then be squeezed either between the hands or in a press, and the clear liquor used for dyeing purposes. Alone it will dye a very Blue shade of Pink, but requires a little Tartaric or Sulphuric Acid to redden it, when a Red shade is required. It should be well rubbed before it is put into the bags to steep in the water. SILK-DYEING. No. 1. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— LAVENDER. In a tub of warm water, at 20°, add 1 lb. of Extract of Indigo, 4 lbs. of Alum, previously dis- solved, and a little Plum Liquor, according to the shade of redness required. By adding more Extract, a darker shade may be dyed, and a lighter by adding less of it. By varying the quantities of Extract and Plum Liquor, all the various shades of Lavender may be dyed. No. 2. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— LAVENDER, No. 2. Another mode of dyeing the foregoing colors is as follows: First dye the Silk, at boiling heat, with a little Cudbear, according to the shade of redness required, and afterwards make up a tub of warm water, at about 20°, and add 4 lbs. of \ SILK-DYEING. 85 ✓ Alum, and Extract according to the shade of blue- ness it requires. No. 3. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— LAVENDER. Make up a tub of warm water, at about 20°, add 1 lb. of Extract, and in the place of Alum add Red Liquor, and Logwood, about 2 or 3 quarts. The Logwood must be boiled up with the Red Liquor, about 2 lbs. of Logwood to a gallon. Any variety of shades may be dyed in this w’ay. Another mode of dyeing the Red shades of Lavender is by passing them through the Plum vat when it is nearly worn out for the Plum colors. No. 4. SPIRIT YELLOWS. This color is dyed by being passed through strong Nitric Acid, and then through a little Soda or Soda ashes in warm water. This will produce a good full Yellow or light Orange. 8 86 SILK-DYEING. No. 5. WOLD YELLOW. In a Copper boil up a bunch of Wold, say 4 lbs., fasten it in the bottom of the vessel, add a few ounces of Pcarlash, then put into another vessel as much of this clear Liquor as the shade may re- quire, with about 4 ozs. of Alum. The Wold Yellows are very light bright colors, and very fast. No. 6. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— BARK YELLOW. Boil up in a bag about 4 lbs. of Quercitron Bark either in a Copper or clean Tub, add 2 lbs. of Alum and 1 pint of Nitrate or Muriate of Tin. This will produce a good full shade of Yellow, and, by adding more or less of Bark and Spirits, any shade of Yellow may be dyed. No. 7. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— TURMERIC YELLOW. In a tub scald about 4 lbs. of Turmeric, and dye with the clear Liquor; in another tub, at boiling heat, add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, and use Liquor according to shade. SILK-DYEING. 87 Any shade of Yellow, from the lightest to the darkest, may be dyed from Turmeric, though it is very fugitive. Some dyers pass it through a little Soda after- wards. It has a tendency to soften the silk and raise the color. No. 8. ORANGE COLOR. In a tub of boiling Soap Lather, add Annotta, according to shade, and turn the Silk on sharply; when up to the pattern pass through cold water so that you may wring out ; wash twice through cold water, and wring up. The Annotta Liquor for this color must he very strong. To make the Liquor, add 2 lbs. of An- notta to 1 gallon of boiling Ash Liquor, to be well boiled, so that every particle may be dissolved, and only use the clear Liquor. All the various shades of Orange color may he dyed by adding more or less Annotta. No. 9. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— GRAIN CRIMSON. In a tub of warm water, at 110°, add 3 pints of Nitrate of Tin (or Aqua Fortis killed with Tin), turn the Silk in this Liquor from two to three 88 SILK-DYEING. hours, then wring it out, and stick it up again for the Cochineal. Scald 3J lbs. of Cochineal with boiling water, that is, about 3J ozs. of Cochineal to each pound of Silk, put it into a bag, and fill a tub with boiling water, and let it be poured through the bag into the tub, so as to get all the strength out of the Cochineal. Then enter the Silk, give a few turns, and steep in the Liquor all night. In the morning, wring it out, and part the skeins for blueing, if not blue enough. Get a tub of clean cold water, and put a few gallons of the Cochineal Liquor into it, which will prevent the Silk from having a black appearance, to which it is subject, and blue in it; the more cold water it has, the bluer it will appear. This mode of dyeing Crimsons is the best that can be produced, and if there were no other Re- ceipt in this book, this is worth the price of it. No. 10. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— GRAIN SCARLET. Stuff or dye in a Soap Lather with Annotta, boiling hot, until you have a good full Orange bottom, about the same as No. 8. Wash well out of the Annotta, and then dye same as Crimson, see No. 9, only add less Cochineal; if a moderate shade is required, about 2f ozs. to the pound, but if a full shade is wanted, 3J ozs. to the pound. SILK-DYEING. 89 No. 11. SKY BLUES FROM EXTRACT. In the first place dissolve the quantity of Ex- tract required in warm water, and then put in a quantity of wool, which will take up or absorb the Extract; afterwards put the wool into another vessel, and add a little Pearlashes to discharge the Extract from the wool again, amUput the Silk in the same Liquor. By this means the color will be much brighter than if the Extract was put upon the Silk without being put upon the wool. It must then be washed off in a little warm water with a little Oil of Vitriol. If the color is not sufficiently bloomy, pass it through a little liquid Archil in warm water. This will put a bright bloomy appearance upon it. When the color is not required to be very bright, the Extract may be put upon the Silk with a little Alum, at about 100 °. No. 12. SKY BLUES FROM PRUSSIATE. In a tub of cold water add Nitrate of Iron until it stands at about 1° Twaddell, give the silk a few turns, then pass it through weak Ammonia Liquor, say about a pint to 30 gallons. In another tub add Prussiate Liquor according to shade required ; one ounce to the pound will make a fine Light 8 * 90 SILK-DYEING. Blue : if a darker shade is required, more Prussiate must be added. After giving a few turns, lift up and add about a noggin of Oil of Vitriol, put down again and give a few more turns, and wash off. No. 13, A. 10 lbs. OF BLUE.— MAZARINE BLUE. In a copper or tub at boil, add 6 lbs. of Liquid Archil, give a few turns and then pass through the Indigo vat. Either the Copperas or Woad vat will answer, but the Woad vat is preferable. No. 13, B. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FRENCH BLUE. Give 6 turns in a tub of cold water with Nitrate of Iron at 6° Twaddell, then steep the silk in the same liquor for about 40 minutes, wring out and wash well, then give 12 turns in common Soda water, say 1 lb. of it in 24 gallons of water at 120°, wring out, and without washing enter the Prussiate, 1J lb. in 30 gallons of water, to which add 1 quart of Spirits of Salts (Muriatic Acid), and give 10 turns, then lift up and add 1 quart more Salts, give 10 turns more, and wash out. In this state the silk will appear a very dull co- lor ; it must then be passed through weak Ammo- / SILK-DYEING. 91 nia Liquor. To 30 gallons of water at 20° add 1 gill of Ammonia, give 6 turns, then dry it sharply. By passing it through this it will be raised to a very dark bloomy Blue, something like the Maza- rine. No. 14. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— ROYAL BLUE. Make up a tub of Nitrate of Iron at 6°, to which add 1 pint of good Muriate of Tin and 4 ozs. of Tar- taric Acid, turn it in this for about 1 hour. In another tub add 1J lb. of dissolved Prussiate and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, wash out of the Iron tub and enter the Prussiate tub, repeat in the Iron twice and once in Prussiate, wash out of the Iron. In another tub add a little Oil of Vitriol until it tastes sour, give 6 turns in this to clear off any rust that may adhere to it. More Prussiate will produce a darker color, and less a lighter, but the same quantity of Iron and Tin must be used. No. 15. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— BLUE BLACK. Steep in Nitrate of Iron, at 4° for about 1 hour, wring out and wash it. Make up a tub at about 120°, add the clear Liquor from Logwood pre- 92 SILK-DYEING. viously scalded, about the same weight as the silk, and a pailful of melted Soap to keep up a lather, give 12 turns; if not dark enough, add a little more Logwood. No. 16. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— COMMON FULL BLACK. Steep in Nitrate of Iron at 4° for about 1 hour, after giving the Silk a few turns, wring out and wash well in a tub of warm water at about 120°, add 15 lbs. of Logwood, scalded, and add only the clear liquor, and 5 lbs. of scalded Fustic, and a little melted Soap. If the color is not flat enough, add a little more Fustic liquor, and if not dark enough, add more Logwood. No. IT. BROWNS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. For a good light Brown, stuff with Annotta liquor in a Soap lather up to a good orange in boiling water, after this wash well and sadden in a weak Copperas liquor cold, let the Copperas liquor be very clear, then wash off and dye with Fustic and Archil. All the light shades of Browns may be dyed after this manner. When a rather darker shade is required, sadden rather stronger. SILK-DYEING. 93 The yellowness of the color must be regulated with the Fustic, and the redness with the Archil, ac- cording to the shade required. No. 18. DARK BROWNS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. Stuff with Annotta in boiling water until you obtain a full Orange. Sadden with stronger Cop- peras Liquor, and then dye with Fustic, Archil, and Logwood. Any shade required in Browns may be dyed after this manner, but it is impossible to point out every tinge and hue, as in Browns they are so varied. The Fustic produces the Yellow part of the color, the Archil the red part, and the Log- wood the darkness or the Blue part, after the Copperas or saddening. No. 19. CALIFORNIA BROWNS AND OLIVE. Another mode of dyeing Browns. Put on a strong Annotta bottom, as in the other Browns, at boiling point, and wash well out of it ; then scald Fustic, and add the clear Liquor ac- cording to shade, and a little Sumach Liquor along 94 SILK-DYEING. with it. Then sadden in cold water with a little Argol and Copperas Liquor, and when the shade is wanted of a very Olive cast, add a little Turme- ric with the Fustic. All the bright colors in Snuff Brown, Califor- nia colors, and light Olive are dyed according to this Receipt. The darkness of the color must be regulated by the Sumach and Copperas. No. 20. RED OR CLARET BROWN. . This class of colors is dyed with Annotta bot- toms, as before, and then passed through the Plum vat. They are perhaps the richest Browns that can be produced, and are dyed better by this means than by any other. But for the informa- tion of those who are desirous of understanding the different modes of dyeing the same color by different ingredients, and in different modes, I will next insert another mode of dyeing the Red Browns. No. 21. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING RED BROWNS. First steep the Silk in Alum, at about 6° T wad- dell, for about 1 hour, then wash it well in Cold SILK-DYEING. 95 Water; scald Logwood, Peacliwood, and Fustic separately, and use the clear Liquor. The Log- wood must be used very sparingly, as it will darken very fast. The Peacliwood must be the strongest, and Fustic in a moderate way, as 6 parts of Peachwood, 4 parts of Fustic, 1 part of Logwood. Using quantity according to shade required, at about 140°. From the lightest to the darkest shades may be dyed after this manner. These Browns are dyed sooner and cheaper than the saddened Browns, but are not so permanent. No. 22. SOUR BROWNS. Almost any shade of Brown may be dyed in the following manner, and by varying the ingre- dients according to shade required: Dye with Camwood, Chemic, and Acid. No. 23. LIGHT CLARET BROWNS. Dye with 2 lbs. of Camwood, to each pound of Silk add Oil of Vitriol and a little Red Argol for the sour; boil 1 hour in a clean copper, and then sadden with a little Chemic. 96 SILK-DYEING. No. 24. DARK CLARET BROWNS. Stuff with 3 lbs. of Camwood to each lb. of Silk, add a little Argol and Oil of Vitriol for the acid, boil an hour and a half, and wash it well out of this liquor, and sadden in cold water with Cop- peras liquor. The Camwood must be boiled in bags. No. 25. CLARETS AND CHOCOLATES. Steep in Alum, at 6° Twaddell, for about one hour, wash well out, and then dye with Peach- wood and Logwood, according to shade ; if a Cla- ret, use very little Logwood, and if a Chocolate, use a little more, but most Peachwood, in all cases. Dye at about 160°. All the various shades of Claret and Chocolate may be dyed by adding more or less of the two ingredients, Peachwood and Logwmod. No. 26. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING CLARETS AND CHOCOLATES. Boil with Alum and Peachwood together, and then finish in another vessel with Logwood, ac- cording to the darkness required. SILK-DYEING. 97 The body of color in this mode of dyeing is put on in the boiling, and the Logwood is used to blue and darken the same. No. 27. MOCK CRIMSONS, DYED DIFFERENT WAYS. These colors are dyed by first boiling in Alum, and are then finished with Peachwood Liquor and a little Muriate of Tin, at boiling point. Another mode is by steeping the Silk in Alum for a few hours, and then dyeing at the boiling point, with Peachwood only. But the best and readiest mode is by dyeing it off at once with Peachwood Liquor and Muriate of Tin, as either light or dark shades may be dyed by adding Peachwood according to shade required. These are all different from the Crimson Vat colors. No. 28. OLIVE. In the first place, sadden the Silk with Cop- peras Liquor, wash out, and dye with Fustic, mo- derately strong, at boiling heat. Darken with Logwood, blue with Chemic, and when to pattern, 98 SILK-DYEING. wash off in cold water, with a little Oil of Vitriol to preserve the Chemic. Lighter and darker shades may be dyed by varying the quantity of Logwood. No. 29. PURPLES. A variety of Purples may be dyed by first steep- ing the Silk in Alum, and afterwards dyeing with Logwood and Oxalic Acid. t No. 80. MAROONS. Various shades of Maroons may be dyed with Lima Peachwood, Muriate of Tin, and Alum, at boiling point. No. 81. MAROONS, ANOTHER WAY. Dye with Cudbear, at boiling heat, and add a little Young Fustic and Muriate of Tin. Any shade of Maroon may be dyed by adding or diminishing the Cudbear, according to shade required. SILK- DYEING. 99 No. 32. RUBY. The Ruby is dyed from Cudbear alone ; it will produce a fine color of itself. When a Blue shade is required, add a little Ammonia, and when a Red shade is required, add a little Muriate of Tin. No. 33. DAUNCE BLACK. Give 10 turns in Nitrate of Iron at 4°, then fill up with Prussiate, about 2 ozs. to the pound, re- peat twice, wash out of the Iron, and sadden with Copperas. If a darker shade is required, pass through a little Logwood. This color is dyed with a Blue bottom, so that it may not be discharged or spotted with Acid, as Blacks are generally subject to be. No. 34. VIOLET. A variety of shades of this color may be dyed by first steeping the Silk in Alum, and then dye- ing with a little Cudbear and Logwood, according to shade. 100 SILK-DYEING. If a very blue shade is required, add a little Ammonia, and if a red shade is required, add a little Alum with the Cudbear. Clean cold water will blue this class of colors. The Violets are not all dyed in this manner : some are dyed in a Plum Vat. No. 36. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— LIGHT GREEN. In a tub of cold water, add 6 lbs. of dissolved Alum, give the Silk a few turns, steep it in the same Liquor all night and wash it out next morn- ing. Boil up 10 lbs. of chipped Ebony Wood, put the clear Liquor into another tub of water, at 100°, give 6 turns, lift up, and add about 1 gill of Extract of Indigo, or more, according to shade required. No. 37. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— MIDDLE GREEN. Steep in Alum for about twelve hours, same as No. 36, wash out of the Alum, boil up 20 lbs. of Fustic, and use the clear liquor, at about 120° ; give 10 turns, then lift up, and add Extract ac- cording to shade required. If a yellower shade is required, add more Fus- tic, or a little Turmeric Liquor. SILK-DYEING. 101 No. 38. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— DARK GREEN. Steep the Silk same as in last Receipt, and dye in a tub of water, at about 120°, with Fustic or Turmeric Liquor, and Extract, according to shade. No. 39. BOTTLE GREEN. The Bottle Green and Dark Olive shades are dyed in all respects the same as the foregoing Greens, but must be passed through Copperas Liquor, and then in another tub of lukewarm water add a little Logwood Liquor. No. 40. OTHER GREENS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. In a tub of water, at 140°, add about 4 lbs. of Alum, and Fustic Liquor, Extract, and Cliemic, according to shade. Dye off in this, and when according to pattern, wash in cold water, to which add a little Oil of Vitriol to keep the Blue on the Silk. By this mode of dyeing Greens, all the various 9* 102 SILK-DYEING. shades may he got, and any tinge or hue, by add- ing Fustic or Turmeric Liquor, according to tint required. It is a readier mode of dyeing the Greens, and equally as good. No. 41. FAST GREEN WITH A BLUE BOTTOM. First pass the silk through the Copperas vat, and put on the body of blue required for the shade, then dye at boiling heat with Fustic ac- cording to shade required, with a little Alum for the sour to work on the Fustic. When an Olive shade is required, add a little Turmeric. All shades of middle and dark Green may be dyed after this receipt, and the colors dyed in this way are not so soon stained as the other; thev are also more durable bv having a vat bottom. O No. 42. LIGHT OLIVES, OF DIFFERENT SHADES. This class of colors is the best with a light Blue bottom, and dyed off’ at the boiling point, with Turmeric Liquor and a little Archil. When the Green shade is required, add a little Turmeric only, and when a Redder shade is required, add a little Archil also. Some of the 103 STLK- DYEING. finest colors may be produced after this manner. The bright Acanthuses, Ottoman Leaves, and Bronzes are dyed in this way. No. 43. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FLESH COLOR OR BUFF. Make up a tub, at boiling point, with a little White Soap, 4 ozs. of Pearlash, and 2 quarts of Annotta Liquor ; enter the Silk, and turn on until it be dyed to pattern. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by add- ing more or less Annotta Liquor. No. 44. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— SALMON. This color is dyed the same as Flesh color, but must be passed through a little Muriate of Tin in a tub of warm water afterwards, in order to raise the Redness of the color. No. 45. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— GOLD COLOR. Dye at boiling heat in a Soap lather, with Annotta according to shade required. If a full 104 SILK- DYEING. shade is required, a full shade of Annotta color must be put upon the Silk, and if lighter shades arc required, a lighter bottom must be put on. After which, boil up 4 lbs. of Bark, with 1 quart of Muriate of Tin ; the Bark must be put into a bag. Cool the vessel down a little, enter the Silk, and turn it for about twenty minutes. If it is not yellow enough, take out the Silk, and put it in the bag with 1 pint more of Tin Spirits, boil it a little, and then enter the Silk again. No. 46. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— YELLOW FAWN DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 quart of An- notta Liquor, 1 lb. to a gallon of water, and 8 ozs. of Pearlash ; to this add 2 lbs. of scalded Fustic and 8 ozs. of Sumach ; enter, give 10 turns, lift up, and throw out a few pailfuls of the Liquor; dissolve 8 ozs. of Argol and 2 lbs. of Copperas in 1 gallon of water, add 1 quart of this to the Liquor, and if not flat enough add more of it. SILK-DYEING. 105 No. 47. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FAWN DRAB. To a tub of warm water, add 1 pint of Annotta Liquor, 1 lb. of Sumach, and 1 lb. of Fustic; and sadden down with Copperas Liquor, according to shade. No. 48. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— FLAT DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 gill of Annotta, 1 lb. of Fustic, 1J lb. of Sumach, and sadden in another tub of cold water with Copperas Liquor, according to the shade of deadness required. No. 49. HEAVY DRABS. Dye in a killed Liquor, at about 100°, with a little Fustic Liquor, a little Archil, and a little Chemic. Any shade of Drabs of a heavy, flat, or dark appearance may be dyed in this way, from these ingredients. The Liquor is said to be killed, when a quan- tity of Copperas Liquor is poured into it. For these shades it requires about J a noggin to 10 lbs. of Silk. 106 SILK-DYEING. No. 50. SLATE DRAB. Dye in killed Liquor with a little Fustic Liquor, and a little Logwood Liquor ; if not Blue enough, add a little Chemic. No. 51. 10 lbs. OF SILK.— BRONZE DRAB. In a tub of warm water, at 100°, add 1 lb. of Fustic and 6 ozs. of Archil, and then sadden with Copperas Liquor. These shades of Drab are all very distinct, the last three especially. Perhaps there is as much difference in the shades as is possible to be made in Drabs ; but all the varieties of shades that come between these may be dyed according to the preceding Receipts, which is the way that most drabs are dyed. I will now give a few Re- ceipts of another mode of dyeing Fawns by means of Acid instead of a killed Liquor. Almost all Silk requires to be passed through a mode of softening, as it is called by Silk-Dyers. It is made as follows: Add 2 lbs. of Sweet Oil to 1 lb. of Sulphuric Acid (Oil of Vitriol), and stir it quickly when mixing. This will form a sort of paste, which will mix with water, not floating on SILK-DYEING. 107 the top, like Oil. A little of this must be added to a tub of cold water, and the Silk passed through it, which will give it a very smooth finish, and cause it to spin much better than it otherwise would. No. 52. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING DRABS. A great variety of Drabs may be dyed, at boiling heat, with a little Oil of ATtriol for the sour, and a little Argol. Many of the Fawn shades would require only a little liquid Archil and Madder Liquor, less or more, according to shade. Some of the brightest colors of light Fawns may be dyed in this manner ; and by adding a little Chemic to flatten or sadden with, a still greater variety may be dyed. The colors dyed in this manner are firmer and less liable to stain than those dyed in a killed Liquor. No. 53. SOUR BROWNS. A great variety of Browns may be dyed with Acid, using Camwood for the Red part of the color, Turmeric for the Yellow part, and then 108 SILK-DYEING. sadden with Copperas in another vessel cold. After a good body of Camwood is got upon the Silk, it may be saddened down to either a light or a dark shade. No. 54. FRENCH WHITE. This color is first bleached, and then dyed with Archil and Chcmic. Make up a tub at about 160°, to which add a little liquid Archil, and either a little Chemic or Extract, with a pailful of Soap Lather. This will put down the Yellow- ness of color, and raise it to a fine clear White. Be careful not to add too much of either Archil or Chcmic, as it requires very little. Another mode of dyeing a White is by stoving it with Sulphur. No. 55. PINKS FROM SAFFLOWER. The Safflower for Light Pinks is first put upon cotton, and then discharged from the cotton, and then put upon the silk in the following manner: The Safflower is spent with Pearlashes in the usual way, and the Liquor put into a vessel with water, and then a quantity of either Cotton Yarns SILK-DYEING. 109 or Cotton Wool steeped in the Liquor, so as to take up the strength of it. The Cotton must then be put into another ves- sel of clean water, with a portion of Pearlashes, which will discharge the strength of the Safflower from the cotton, and clear it from all dirt. The silk must then be dyed in the same Liquor with a little Oil of Vitriol. The whole of this process must be cold. By this means the color will be clear and bright. No. 56. PINKS FROM PE AC II WOOD. This color may be dyed either by being passed through the Crimson Vat, or by first steeping the Silk in Alum, and then dyeing it with Peachwood, at boiling heat; by using a little Muriate of Tin the color will be much brighter. No. 57. GRAIN PINKS. This class of Pinks may be dyed in various ways. One manner is: first pass the Silk through Red Liquor, and then dye, at boiling heat, with the clear Liquor from scalded Cochineal. 10 110 SILK-DYEING. Another mode is: first steep it in Alum, and dye same as when passed through Red Liquor. And another mode is by dyeing it the same as dyeing Grain Crimson, only using much less Cochineal. No. 58. MOCK SCARLET. Get a good Annotta bottom on, the same as for the other Scarlet, until it appears a good Orange ; then wash, and spend about 4 or 5 lbs. of Peach- wood to 10 lbs. of Silk; add the clear Liquor to a tub of hot water, give 10 turns, and then pass through the Crimson Vat. Another mode is to dye it, at boiling heat, with Peafthwood Liquor and Muriate of Tin ; after the Annotta, Orange is put on it as in the other mode. No. 59. REAL PARIS BLACKS. In a tub of water, at 180°, made up with 8 parts of Fustic, and 1 part of Bark Liquor, add 2 ozs. of Verdigris, and 1 oz. of Copperas to every pound of Silk. Steep the Silk in this all night, after giving it a few turns. In the morning, SILK-DYEING. Ill wring out, and wash well twice over. Then make the Silk up for dyeing in a Logwood Liquor, at 150°. This must be dyed in a Soap Lather. If the shade required he a dark one, much Logwood must be used ; if it has a green appearance, use more Logwood, and when dark enough wash twice over. Then stick up the Silk for softening in warm water. The softening must be a little Soda and Neat’s-foot Oil. This is the best Black that can be dyed. No. 60. NAPOLEON BLUE, AND HOW TO MAKE THE SPIRITS FOR THE SAME. Into a tub put 100 lbs. of Spirits of Salts (Muriatic Acid), to which add 7 lbs. of Feathered Tin; put the jar into boiling water, and keep up the heat until the tin be all eaten aw T ay. Into another jar about the same size put the same quantity of Spirits of Salts, to which add Iron filings until it will eat no more (it will be continu- ally eating for two or three days, and will require to be kept warm all the time), and after settling it will be ready for use. This is the real Muriate of Iron, the former the real Muriate of Tin. Some prefer Nitrate of Iron to Muriate of Iron, which may be made as follows: — 112 SILK-DYEING. Into ajar of about the same size put about the same quantity of Aqua fortis (Nitric Acid), at about 20° Twaddell, to which add Iron filings, as in the other Spirits, until it wfill eat no more ; add only a little of it at once, as it is subject to boil over v 7 hen too much is added at a time; it will not require heat as the other Spirit. These are the Spirits to be used in proportion as follows: Into a half-pipe tub of cold water add 2 quarts of the Muriate of Tin, and the same quantity of Muriate or Nitrate of Iron, and 1 lb. of Tartaric Acid. This is the Mordant for the Silk. In another tub of the same size add 6 lbs. of Alum, previously dissolved. Then add 2 ozs. of the Red Prussiate of Potash to every lb. of Silk to be dyed. In this, give the Silk 10 turns; the Liquor must be at about 100° ; then slightly wash, enter the Mordant tub, give 10 turns, wring out, wash it again, and repeat in each until you get the shade required. It may require 5 or 6 rounds, or more, according to the darkness of the color. This will dye a good color ; if a Bluer shade is required, add more of the Nitrate or Muriate of Iron, and less of Muriate of Tin ; and if a Redder shade is required, add more of the Mu- riate of Tin, and less of the Nitrate or Muriate of Iron for the Mordant. 118 SILK- DYEING. The Yellow Prussiate of Potash will produce nearly the same shade of color, with the same weight of it as of the Red. The Silk must pass through the Mordant the last, and not through the Prussiate ; after which, it must be washed out and put to soak in Fuller’s earth for a few hours; then wash it out of the earth, and pass it through the Mordant again with about 10 turns more ; then wring it out, not wash it. ready for getting up. In another tub of cold water add a little Tartaric Acid, sufficient to keep the color; to a spoonful of the best Oil add the least drop of Oil of vitriol, put this into the tub, and give the Silk a few turns, and then wring it out. If the Silk does not appear dark enough, dry it hot ; but if dark enough, dry it cool. This is for the first day’s work; the second will not require so many dye-wares. For the next day’s work, only add about one-half of the Spirits of each kind, and for the Mordant, much of the strength of the other will be left in the tub. Take the clear liquor from the Prussiate tub and throw down the sediment, and add only 1J oz. of Prussiate to the pound of Silk in the place of 2 ozs.; heat up to 100°, and add about the same quantity of Alum as before, and dye in all re- spects the same as the previous day. 10 * WOOLLEN YARN DYEING. No. 1. 20 BUNCHES 44s.— PEA GREEN, VERY FINE SHADE. Dye at boiling heat with 2 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Wold, 8 ozs. of Liquid Extract, 1 lb. of Brown Tartar, and 1 gill of Spirits. Flatter Greens about the same shades may be dyed without Spirit and Wolds, by using Fustic in the place of both ; but the color will not be anything like the same in point of brightness. No. 2. 0 GROSS OF 80s.— SILVER DRAB. Dye with 4 ozs. of Logwood, 1 oz. of Cudbear, and 4 ozs. of Alum.