fOKK MANUALS. No. I. 
 
 THE 
 
 PREPARATION AND USE 
 
 OF 
 
 CEMENTS AND CxLUE. 
 
 By JOHN PHIN, 
 
 editor of the young scientist," and the 
 4 American journal of mtcrosoopy." 
 
 NEW YORK: 
 THE INDUSTRIAL PUBLICATION COMPANY. 
 
 1881. 
 
 Copyright Sccund, 1881, by John Pkin. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2013 
 
 http://archive.org/details/preparationuseofOOphin 
 
THE 
 
 PREPARATION AND USE 
 
 OF 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 By JOHN PHIN, 
 
 EDITOR OF THE " YOUNG SCIENTIST," AND THE 
 * 'AMERICAN JOURNAL OF MICRoScOPY. " 
 
 NEW YORK: ■ 
 THE INDUSTRIAL PUBLICATION COMPANY, 
 
 1881. 
 
PEEFAOE. 
 
 Cements form such a ready means of uniting the parts of new 
 articles, as well as of those which have been broken, that there are 
 few persons to whom a knowledge of the best methods of preparing 
 and applying them would not be useful. At present, such information 
 is to be found only in a scattered and fragmentary form in Cyclopae- 
 dias, Handbooks, and Journals, and no thorough and systematic 
 statement of the principles which must be followed in order to 
 secure success, can be anywhere found. Indeed, so far as we are 
 aware, the only general articles that have been published on glues 
 and cements are those which have been written by the author of 
 the present brochure. One of these articles entitled: "Cements 
 and How to Use Them," which appeared in the Technologist, Vol. I, 
 1870, has formed the basis of most of the recent "Introductions," 
 to the articles on cements, in the popular Books and Cyclopaedias of 
 Recipes — Spon, Dick, and others, having appropriated it without 
 acknowledgment. The history of this article was somewhat amus- 
 ing. Shortly after its appearance in the Technologist, it was copied 
 into the English Mechanic and architectural journals, generally 
 without acknowledgment. As soon as these papers reached this 
 country, it was eagerly picked up by our American journals and 
 copied by them, but always credited to the foreign periodicals. 
 
 The most amusing circumstance, however, was the fact that a 
 writer for the mechanical journals, finding it in an obscure English 
 paper, and thinking it a good thing, made a few slight changes in it, 
 and sent it to us as an original production. We sent him, without 
 any comment, a copy of the number containing the original article, 
 and that was the last we ever heard from our correspondent. 
 
 In preparing this little book the utmost care has been taken to 
 secure accuracy. When we consider the number of utterly worth- 
 less recipes which have been published with the sanction of 
 names which stand high in the mechanical world, it is no wonder 
 that even the best collections have admitted useless formulae to their 
 pages. We believe that most of the formulae here given will do all 
 that is claimed for them, and, wherever we have had any doubt upon 
 this point, we have intimated it. The reliability of many of the 
 recipes we know from personal experience. 
 
 During the past dozen years the author has contributed to the in- 
 dustrial journals several articles upon glue and cements, and where 
 passages from these articles have been incorporated in this work, it 
 has not been thought necessary to make special acknowledgment. 
 
 It would have been easy to have extended this treatise to several 
 times the present size, but we believe that it now contains all that is 
 generally useful. John Phxn. 
 
 New York, May, 1881. 
 
1 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 The term " cement " is applied to two very different articles 
 used in the arts. Sometimes it means those fine mortars 
 which are used for uniting stones or bricks in building, and for 
 coating the surfaces of walls, floors, etc.; at other times it 
 means those pastes, glues and other adhesive substances which 
 are employed for the purpose of uniting different pieces of 
 material together, and it is in this sense that we employ it in 
 the following pages. 
 
 The number of adhesive cements which have been discovered 
 and invented, is very large, so that in order to present them in 
 convenient form, they should be properly classified and ar- 
 ranged. In attempting to do this, however, we meet with un- 
 expected and serious difficulties, from the fact that there are so 
 many systems according to which the various cements may be 
 arranged, and all apparently eligible. Each of these systems 
 has its own advantages and defects, and, unfortunately, it is 
 impossible to so combine them as to avoid these objections. 
 Of the several ways in which cements might be classified, the 
 following are examples: 
 
 1. According to their composition. Under this arrangement 
 animal glues would be placed in one class, vegetable gums in 
 another, resins in another and so on. 
 
 2. According to the purpose to which they are to be applied; 
 those for uniting wood in one class, those for joining leather in 
 another, and so on. 
 
 3. According to their behavior in drying or hardening, as is 
 more fully explained hereafter. 
 
8 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 None of these plans seem to us to meet the requirements of 
 the case, and therefore we shall adopt a less scientific, but, as 
 we think, a more practically useful system, and arrange the dif- 
 ferent cements in alphabetical order, giving such indices and 
 cross references as will enable any one to turn at once to the 
 formula which may be needed. 
 
 GENERAL RULES FOR THE USE OF CEMENTS. 
 
 Some ye*ars ago the writer called attention* to the fact that 
 quite as much depends upon the manner in which a cement is 
 used as upon the cement itself. The best cement that ever 
 was compounded would prove entirely worthless if improperly 
 applied. Hence we constantly see failures occurring in the 
 use of cements, notwithstanding the fact that we have cements 
 which answer every reasonable demand, when they are pro- 
 perly prepared and properly used. Good common glue will 
 unite two pieces of wood so firmly that the fibres will part 
 from each other rather than from the cementing material; two 
 pieces of glass can be so joined that they will part anywhere 
 rather than on the line of union; glass can be united to metal, 
 metal to metal, stone to stone, and all so strongly that the 
 joint will certainly not be the weakest part of the resulting 
 mass. But in order to be successful in the use of any cement, 
 we must understand its character and properties, and con- 
 form to them our methods of application. 
 
 Every cement may be assigned to one of four classes, accord- 
 ing as it (1), Dries by evaporation; (2), Congeals by cooling; 
 (3), Hardens by oxidation, or (4), " Sets " by chemical changes. 
 To the first class belong pastes, mucilages, alcoholic and other 
 solutions of gums and resins, and, to a certain extent, glue. To 
 the second belong such cements as sealing-wax, turner's cement, 
 shellac, etc. The third class includes gold size, drying oil, 
 white and red lead, etc., and the fourth class covers plaster- of- 
 Paris, the so-called iron cement, and others of that kind. 
 
 * Technologist, Vol. L, (1870), page 188. 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 9 
 
 If the best results would be attained the following rules must 
 be rigorously adhered to: 
 
 1. The cement must be brought into intimate contact with the 
 surface to be united. Thus, when glue is employed, the surface 
 should be made so warm that the melted glue will not be chilled 
 before it has time to effect a thorough adhesion; a drop of melted 
 glue allowed to simply fall on a surface of dry, cold wood and 
 solidify there, will often fail to adhere at all, while if the same 
 drop had been rubbed in, it would have attached itself to it 
 with wonderful power of adhesion. The same is more emi- 
 nently true in regard to cements that are used in a fused 
 state, such as mixtures of resin, shellac and similar materials. 
 These matters will not adhere to any substance unless the 
 latter has been heated to nearly or quite the fusing point of 
 the cement used. This fact was quite familiar to those who 
 used sealing-wax in the old days of seals and twenty-cent post- 
 age. When the seal was used rapidly, so as to become heated, 
 the se?Jing-wax stuck to it with a firmness that was annoying, 
 so much so that the impression was in general destroyed, from 
 the simple fact that the sealing-wax would rather part in its 
 own substance than at the point of adhesion to the stamp. 
 Sealing-wax, or ordinary electrical cement, is a very good agent 
 for uniting metal to glass or stone, provided the masses to 
 be united are made so hot as to fuse the cement, but if the 
 cement be applied to them while they are cold, it will not stick 
 at all. This fact is well known to the itinerant venders of 
 cement for uniting earthenware. By heating two pieces of delf 
 so that they will fuse shellac, they are able to smear them with 
 a little of this gum, and join them so that they will break at any 
 other part rather than along the line of union. But although 
 people constantly see the operation performed, and buy liber- 
 ally of the cement, it will be found that in nine cases out of 
 ten the cement proves worthless in the hands of the purchasers, 
 simply because they do not know how to use it. They are 
 afraid to heat a delicate glass or porcelain vessel to a sufficient 
 degree, and they are apt to use too much of the material, and 
 the result is a failure. 
 
10 
 
 (JEMENTS AND GLUE\ 
 
 The great obstacles to the absolute contact of any two sur- 
 faces, are air and dirt. The former is universally present, the 
 letter, is due to accident or carelessness. All surfaces are 
 covered with a thin adhering layer of air, which is difficult to 
 remove, and which, although it may at first sight seem im- 
 probable, bears to the outer surface of most bodies a relation 
 different from that maintained by the air a few lines away, 
 and until this layer or film of air has been removed, it prevents 
 the absolute contact of any other substance. The reality of 
 the existence of this adhering layer of air is well known to all 
 who are familiar with electrotype manipulation, and it is also 
 seen in the case of highly polished metals, which may be im- 
 mersed in water without becoming wet. Thus the surface of 
 a needle retains this film of air so strongly that it will float on 
 the surface of w r ater rather than give it up. 
 
 Unless this adhering layer of air is displaced, it will be im- 
 possible for any cement to adhere to the surface to which it is 
 applied, simply because it can not come into contact with it. 
 
 The most efficient agents in displacing this air are heat and 
 pressure. Metals warmed to a point a little above 200° Fahr., 
 become instantly and completely wet when immersed in water. 
 Hence for cements that are used in a fused condition, heat is 
 the most efficient means of bringing them in contact with the 
 surfaces to which they are to be applied. 
 
 When it is intended to unite two pieces of earthenware or 
 glass together, or a piece of glass or other substance to metal, 
 by means of a cement that is to be used in a fused state, the 
 surfaces that are to be united should always be made so hot 
 that the cement will become perfectly liquid when brought in 
 contact with them. 
 
 In the case of glue, the adhesion is best attained by pressure 
 and friction, combined with moderate warmth. In large es- 
 tablishments, where good glue joints are an importent item, a 
 special room, carefully warmed, is set aside for this operation. 
 
 2. A very important point is that as little cement as possible 
 should be used. When the united surfaces are separated by a 
 large mass of cement, we have to depend upon the strength of 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 11 
 
 tht? cement itself, and not upon its adhesion to the surfaces 
 which it is used to join; and, in general, cements are compara- 
 tively brittle. At first sight one would suppose that the more 
 cement there is used, the stronger will be the joint, and this is 
 an error into which most inexperienced persons fall. Two 
 pieces of earthenware, joined together by a layer of shellac as 
 thin as possible, will adhere together and will be as strong at 
 the junction as at any other part, while the sajpe pieces united 
 by means of a layer of the same cement an eighth of an inch 
 thick, would fall apart on receiving the slightest jar. The rule 
 which directs us to use as little cement as possible, admits of 
 no exceptions, and as a general thing the only way to obtain 
 thin layers of cements that are to be used in a fused state, is to 
 heat thoroughly the pieces that are to be united, press them 
 forcibly together, and keep them under pressure by means of 
 weights, screws, or cords until the cement has hardened. 
 
 3. The third point to w T hich we shall call attention is the 
 necessity for cleanliness, both in the preparation of the cements 
 and in the application of them. It may be safely laid down as 
 a positive rule that every extraneous substance that is mixed 
 with the material of a cement is an injury to it. Glue prepared 
 in a greasy pot cannot be expected to make a strong joint, and 
 the presence of dust and dirt tends to weaken all cements. So, 
 too, in the application of cements. If we attempt to glue to- 
 gether two surfaces of wood that are covered with dirt, the 
 substances that are to be united are not wood to wood, but 
 dirt to dirt, and the joint, instead of possessing the strength of 
 wood, united by means of good glue, will have simply the 
 strength of dirt. Moreover, we must remember that the differ- 
 ent cements do not adhere with equal force to substances of dif- 
 ferent kinds. Thus, glue adheres powerfully to wood and paper, 
 but not at all to metal or glass. Shellac, if properly applied, ad- 
 heres readily to earthenware, glass and metal, but not to some 
 other substances. If, then, we apply glue to a greasy surface 
 it will not stick. Hence the necessity for great cleanliness. 
 All surfaces should be kept as clean as possible, or if they 
 should get accidentally soiled, they should be carefully cleaned. 
 
12 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 The mere rubbing of two wooden surfaces with a dirty hand 
 will weaken the subsequent glue joint by at least ten per cent. 
 
 The most common case in which this rule is violated by the 
 inexperienced is in mending articles which have been formerly 
 glued and have been again broken at the old place. Such 
 articles when first mended, frequently last for a long time, but 
 when a second attempt is made to glue the pieces together, the 
 joint seems alnqpst to fall to pieces of itself. Here we are at- 
 tempting to glue together, not two pieces of wood, but two 
 pieces of old glue, and the result is failure. Soak off all the 
 old glue (do not cut or scrape it, or the pieces will no longer fit 
 accurately together) wash the surfaces with a sponge dipped in 
 boiling water, and when they are dry and warm, glue them to- 
 gether in the usual manner, and you will be surprised at the 
 strength of the joint. 
 
 4. See that the opposing surfaces make a close, neat joint, be- 
 fore you attempt to cement them. Two pieces of wood that 
 are to be glued together should be planed up so true that they 
 are in contact at every point, and where an article has been 
 broken, the surfaces to be joined should be preserved from 
 being broken or battered. This is particularly the case when 
 articles of glass or earthenware are accidentally broken, and it is 
 not convenient to mend them on the instant. They should be 
 carefully wrapped up in separate pieces of paper, and laid away 
 where they will not be soiled, and where the edges will not be 
 chipped. In such cases the joint will be greatly disfigured, 
 and considerably weakened if the edges are chipped and broken 
 by careless handling, or by being needlessly and frequently 
 fitted together. Keep the pieces from contact with each 
 other and with foreign substances until you are ready to 
 join them, and the joint will then be not only strong but almost 
 invisible. 
 
 5. Plenty of time should be allowed for the cement to dry or 
 harden, and this is particularly the case with oil cements, such 
 as copal varnish, boiled oil, white lead, etc. These cements 
 are said to dry, but they do not dry by evaporation. Instead 
 of losing anything, they actually gain in weight by absorbing 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 Jo 
 
 oxygen from the air, and this process of oxidation is a very 
 slow one except as regards the very thin layer that is in imme- 
 diate contact with the air. Tims when two surfaces, each half an 
 inch across, are joined by means of a layer of white lead placed 
 between them, six months may elapse before the cement in the 
 middle of the joint has become hard. In snch cases a few 
 days or weeks are of no account; at the end of a month the joint 
 will be weak and easily separated, while at the end of two 
 or three years it may be so firm that the material will part any- 
 where else than at the joint. Hence, where the article is to be 
 used immediately, the only safe cements are those which are 
 liquified by heat and which become hard when cold. A joint 
 made with marine glue is firm an hour after it has been made. 
 Next, in rapidity of hardening, to cements that are liquified by 
 heat, are those which consist of substances dissolved in w T ater 
 or alcohol. A glue joint sets firmly in twenty-four hours; a 
 joint made with shellac varnish becomes dry in two or three 
 days. Oil cements, (boiled oil, white lead, red lead, etc.), take 
 months. 
 
 6 Where neatness as well as strength, is an object, it will 
 often be advisable to use a cement of a color as nearly like 
 that of the materials to be united as possible. Thus a white 
 porcelain cup, mended with black cement, would show some 
 very ugly lines. If, however, a white cement be used, the lines 
 of fracture will be invisible. The same rule applies to other 
 articles, and it is always easy to color a cement to any desired 
 tint. 
 
 The following recipes and formulae have been selected from 
 the many thousands that have been published as being thor- 
 oughly trustworthy and efficient. We give one or two popular 
 recipes in which, however, as we state, we have no great faith. 
 Some we have marked doubtful; others we give on the general 
 authority — " it is said." For ease of reference we have num- 
 bered the formulae consecutively from the beginning to the 
 end of the volume. 
 
14 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUJt 
 
 FOEMUL^E FOE CEMENTS. 
 
 Acacia Gum. See Gum. 
 Alabaster Cement. 
 
 Cements for uniting pieces of alabaster, marble, Derbyshire 
 spar, and other kinds of white stone, are in frequent demand. 
 The following recipes give satisfactory results. Those contain- 
 ing resin must be applied hot, and the pieces to be joined must 
 also be heated up to the melting point of resin. 
 
 1. Plaster-of-Paris made into a cream with water. This 
 cement sets in a few minutes, but it does not become perfectly 
 hard for several days, or until it has become thoroughly dry. 
 
 2. Yellow resin, 2 parts; melt and stir in 1 part of plaster-of- 
 Paris, which has been thoroughly dried and heated. 
 
 3. Yellow resin, beeswax and plaster-of -Paris, equal parts. 
 
 4. Besin, 8 parts; wax, 1 part; melt and stir in 4 parts of 
 plaster- of -Paris. 
 
 Amber Cement. 
 
 5. Two surfaces of amber may be united by smearing them 
 with boiled linseed oil, pressing them strongly together, and 
 heating them over a clear charcoal fire. To keep the parts in 
 firm contact, it may be well to tie them with the soft iron wire 
 known as binding wire. 
 
 Architectural Cement. 
 
 Architectural cement is a kind of papier-mache, and is used 
 for making entire models, busts, ornaments, etc., rather than 
 for uniting the parts of any article. It is very light and takes 
 a good polish, but is easily affected by moisture. 
 
 6. Reduce paper to a smooth pulp by boiling it in water and 
 work it over. Squeeze this paste dry, and add an equal bulk of 
 whiting. Then mix the whole into a paste of the required con- 
 sistence with good size or solution of glue. 
 
 7. Same as number 6, but with plaster-of-Paris instead of 
 whiting. 
 
Cements and glue. 
 
 15 
 
 Aquarium Cement. 
 
 This term has been applied to various water-proof cements 
 which have been used for joining the sides, ends, etc., of tanks 
 for holding water for various purposes. The following are 
 some of the best. 
 
 8. Take of finely powdered litharge, fine, white, dry sand, and 
 plaster-of-Paris, each 3 parts, by measure; finely pulverized 
 resin, 1 part. Mix thoroughly and make into a paste with 
 boiled linseed oil to which dryer has been added. Beat the 
 mixture well, and let it stand four or five hours before using it. 
 After it has stood for 15 hours, however, it loses its strength. 
 When well made, of good materials, this cement will unite glass 
 and iron so firmly that the glass will often split in its own sub- 
 stance, rather than part from the cement. We have united five 
 plates of glass with this cement alone, and without any frame, 
 so as to form a durable tank holding 5 gallons of water. 
 Glass cemented into its frame with this cement is good for 
 either salt or fresh water. It has been used at the Zoological 
 Gardens, London, with great success. It might be useful for 
 stopping leaks in roofs and other situations. 
 
 9. GuUa-Percha Cement. — This highly recommended cement 
 is made by melting together, in an iron pan, 2 parts common 
 pitch and 1 part gutta-percha, and stirring them well together 
 until thoroughly incorporated, and then pouring the liquid into 
 cold water. When cold it is black, solid, and elastic; but it 
 softens with heat, and may be used as a soft paste, or in the 
 liquid state as is most suitable. It does not harden and crack, 
 and answers an excellent purpose in cementing metal, glass, 
 porcelain, ivory, etc. It may be used instead of putty for glaz- 
 ing windows. 
 
 10. Eed lead. 3 parts; litharge, 1 part; made into a paste or 
 putty with raw linseed oil. 
 
 11. A cement which gradually hardens to a strong consistence 
 may be made by mixing 20 parts of clean river sand, 2 of 
 litharge, and 1 of quick lime, into a thin putty with linseed oil. 
 When this cement is applied to mend broken pieces of stone, 
 as steps of stairs, it acquires, after some time, a stony hardness, 
 and unites the parts with great firmness. 
 
 12. It is said that a cement of great adhesiveness may be 
 made by mixing six parts of powdered graphite with three 
 parts of slacked lime, eight parts of sulphate of baryta, and 
 seven parts of linseed-oil varnish. The mixture must be stirred 
 to uniform consistency. 
 
 Arabic Gum. {See Gum.) 
 
16 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 Armenian Cement— Diamond Cement. 
 
 13. The jewellers of Turkey, who are mostly Armenians, have 
 a singular method of ornamenting watch cases, etc., with dia- 
 monds and other precious stones, by simply gluing or cement- 
 ing them on. The stone is set in gold or silver, and the lower 
 part of the metal made flat, or to correspond with that part to 
 which it is to be fixed. It is then warmed gently and the glue 
 applied, which is so very strong that the parts thus cemented 
 never separate. For this glue, which will firmly unite bits of glass 
 and even polished steel, and which may, of course, be applied 
 to a vast variety of useful purposes, a large number of formulae 
 have been published. The following is the original recipe, 
 which we have traced through various chemical works back 
 to the end of the last century: Dissolve five or six bits 
 of gum mastic, each the size of a large pea, in as much alcohol 
 as will suffice to render them liquid; in another vessel dissolve as 
 much isinglass, previously a little softened in water, (though 
 none of the water must be used), in good brandy or rum, as 
 will make a two-ounce phial of very strong glue, adding two 
 small bits of gum galbanum, or ammoniacum, which must be 
 rubbed or ground until they are dissolved. Then mix the 
 whole with a sufficient heat, keep the glue in a phial closely 
 stoppered, and when it is to be used, set the phial in boiling 
 water. To avoid the cracking of the phial by exposure to'such 
 sudden heat, use a thin, green, glass phial, and hold it in 
 the steam for a few seconds before immersing it in the hot 
 water. 
 
 The following recipes also give very excellent results: 
 
 14. Dr. Tire's Formula. — Isinglass, 1 oz. ; distilled water, 
 6 oz. ; boil to 3 oz., and add rectified spirit, \\ oz. ; boil for a 
 minute or two, strain and add while hot, first, a milky emulsion 
 of ammoniac, \ oz., and then tincture of mastic, 5 dr. 
 
 15. Keller's Formula. — Soak \ oz. of isinglass in 4 oz. 
 water, for 24 hours; evaporate in a water bath to 2 oz., add 
 
 2 oz. rectified spirit (alcohol 85 per cent.), and strain through 
 linen. Mix this solution while warm with a solution of best 
 gum mastic in 2 oz. alcohol; add 1 dr. powdered gum am- 
 moniac, and triturate together until perfectly incorporated, 
 avoiding loss of the alcohol by evaporation as much as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 16. Isinglass dissolved in alcohol (by first soaking in water) 
 
 3 oz. ; bottoms of mastic varnish (thick but clear), 1\ oz. ; mix 
 well. 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 Bad ig eon. 
 
 17. A cement used for filling up holes and covering defects in 
 mechanical work. The most commonly used is putty, colored 
 to suit. Statuaries use a mixture of plaster and freestone for 
 this purpose; carpenters, a mixture of saw dust and glue; coop- 
 ers, a mixture of tallow and chalk. The same name is given to 
 a stone-colored mixture used for the fronts of houses, and of 
 which the published composition is wood-dust and lime, 
 slaked together, stone-powder, and a little umber or sienna 
 mixed up with alum water to the consistence of cement. The 
 real composition is probably some good hydraulic cement 
 colored to suit. See also Mahogany Cement. 
 
 Botany Bay Cement. 
 
 18. This is composed of equal parts of yellow gum (Botany 
 Bay gum), and brick dust melted together. Botany Bay gum is 
 a gum resin produced by a plant which grows in New Holland. 
 
 Bottle Cement. 
 
 19. In the better class of preparations, good sealing wax is 
 used when the object is merely to ornament the cork. Where 
 it is desired to close the pores of cork hermetically, a softer and 
 more tenacious cement should be used, Chemical cement (40) 
 or Glycerine cement (77) are good. The following are well 
 tried recipes for bottle cement or bottle wax. 
 
 20. Shellac, 2 lbs. ; resin, 4 lbs; Venice turpentine, l£ lbs. ; red 
 lead, l£ lbs. Fuse the shellac and resin cautiously in a copper 
 pan over the fire; when melted add the turpentine, and lastly 
 the red lead, which should be dry and warm. Pour into moulds, 
 or make it into sticks by rolling on a marble slab. Care must 
 be taken to have the red lead equally diffused through the 
 melted mass by constant stirring, as owing to its great specific 
 gravity it is apt to sink to the bottom. 
 
 21. Besin and beeswax, equal parts; melt them together and 
 add sufficient Venetian red to give a good color, and enough 
 neatsfoot oil to prevent its being brittle when cold. 
 
 22. Sealing wax, 1 lb; resin, 1 lb; beeswax, 8 ounces; melt 
 together. Bottles may be sealed by dipping the corks in this 
 melted mixture. If it froths, add a very small piece of tallow 
 and stir. 
 
 23. Besin, 15 parts; tallow, 4; beeswax, 2; melt and color 
 with red ochre or ivory black. 
 
 24. Black pitch, 6 lbs; ivory black and whiting, each 1 lb. 
 Melt the pitch and add the other ingredients hot and dry. 
 
18 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLTJE. 
 
 25. Maissiafs Cement. — India-rubber is melted either witli 
 or without about 15 per cent of either beeswax or tallow; 
 quicklime in fine powder is gradually added, and the heat con- 
 tinued until change of odor shows that combination has taken 
 place, and until a proper consistence is obtained. Used as a 
 waterproof and air tight covering for corks, bungs, etc. 
 
 (26). Copal varnish made thick with zinc white, red lead, 
 ivory black or any other color and applied like a paint. 
 
 Brimstone Cement. 
 
 27. Roll sulphur is frequently used alone as a cement for fas- 
 tening iron bars in holes drilled in stone. The addition of brick 
 dust, sand or resin, lessens its liability to crack. When the yel- 
 low color of brimstone is an objection, a little plumbago may be 
 mixed with it. 
 
 British Gum. See Dextrine. 
 
 Buckland's Cement. 
 
 28. White sugar, 1 oz. ; starch, 3 oz. ; gum arabic, 4 oz. These 
 should all be separately reduced to a very fine powder, and then 
 rubbed well together in a dry mortar; then little by little add 
 cold water until the mass is of the thickness of melted glue; put 
 in a wide mouthed bottle and cork closely. The dry powder 
 itself, thoroughly ground and mixed, may be kept for any 
 length of time in a wide-mouthed bottle, and when wanted a 
 little may be mixed with water with a stiff brush. It answers 
 ordinarily for all the purposes for which mucilage is used, and 
 as a cement for labels it is specially good, as it does not become 
 brittle and crack off. 
 
 Canada Balsam. 
 
 29. This material forms a very useful cement for many pur- 
 poses. It is the only cement employed by opticians for uniting 
 the lenses of achromatic objectives. For this purpose it must 
 be pure and colorless. It is easily bleached by exposure to 
 sunlight. If too thick, it may be thinned with benzole. 
 
 In cementing the two parts of an achromatic lens together, 
 the surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned, and the glasses hav- 
 ing been previously warmed, should be laid on some surface 
 which will not scratch them. By means of a rod of glass or 
 metal, place a drop of balsam on the centre of one lens, and 
 then gently lower the other down upon it. Now apply a slight 
 pressure, and the dark disc in the centre, indicative of optical 
 contact, will rapidly increase in size, until at last the balsam 
 reaches the margin and begins to ooze out at the edges, if the 
 balsam be in excess, as it ought to be. By means of a, 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 19 
 
 piece of soft string, if the lenses are large, or a spring clip, 
 if they be small, the lenses should be held firmly together and 
 exposed to a gentle heat in an oven that is cooling, or before a 
 fire, until the balsam at the edges has become hard and dry. 
 The string or clip may then be removed, and all external traces 
 of balsam removed, first by scraping, and afterwards with a little 
 benzole or ether. The above directions, modified to suit cir- 
 cumstances, apply to the cementing of glasses for transparencies 
 or opal pictures; also to the varnishing of magic lantern slides, 
 and the protection of any transparent surfaces from the air. 
 
 30. Canada balsam forms a very efficient and easily applied 
 cement for the construction of small tanks used by micro- 
 scopists for keeping minute plants and animals alive in water. 
 
 Caoutchouc. See India Rubber. 
 
 Cap Cements. 
 
 These cements are so called because they are used for fixing 
 brass caps, stop cocks, etc., on glass apparatus. There are 
 two kinds of cement in use for this purpose; one consists of 
 resin and other matters, and is fusible by heat, so that it is easily 
 applied, takes very little time to harden, and if the glass should 
 get broken, or if the brass work requires to be changed, it is very 
 easy to separate the parts by the action of heat. When pro- 
 perly applied, this cement is perfectly air tight, and is very 
 strong. The only objection to it is that it is easily softened by 
 heat, and, therefore, it cannot be used for apparatus to which 
 heat is to be applied. For air pumps and other pneumatic ap- 
 paratus, and similar purposes, it answers perfectly. The other 
 cement consists of white or red lead ground in boiled oil, and 
 applied either to the naked surfaces, or by spreading it on a 
 cloth, which is then placed between the surfaces to be united. 
 The advantages of this kind of cement is that it will stand any 
 heat below 300° Fahr., and that it is steam and air tight. The 
 objections are that it takes a long time to dry, and that when 
 it has been used to unite pieces of apparatus, it is almost im- 
 possible to separate the parts without breaking the glass. This 
 may occasionally be effected, however, either by heating the 
 joint very strongly or by soaking in solution of caustic potash 
 or soda. 
 
20 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 31. Faraday's Cap Cement. — Electrical Cement -—Resin, 5 oz.; 
 beeswax, 1 oz. ; red oclire or Venetian red in powder, 1 oz. Dry 
 the earth thoroughly on a stove at a temperature above 212°. 
 Melt the wax and resin together and stir in the powder by de- 
 grees. Stir until cold, lest the earthy matter settle to the 
 bottom. Used for fastening brass work to glass tubes, flasks, 
 etc. 
 
 Faraday's directions for fastening caps to the ends of tubes 
 or retorts are as follows: " One is to be selected of such size as 
 to admit the tube and allow a space for cement about the thick- 
 ness of a card or a little more, but the cap should never be so 
 small as itself to gripe the glass, or any larger than is necessary 
 to allow room for cement to surround the glass. The cement 
 should be heated to fluidity on the sand bath, but not to a greater 
 degree; the cap should be w r armed over a candle or lamp until 
 it is hot enough to melt cement, and then that part of its in- 
 terior which is intended to come against the glass, viz; the 
 sides of the cylinder, should be covered with the hot cement, 
 applied by a piece of stick. The cap being then laid on its 
 side by the sand-bath to keep it from cooling, the end of the 
 tube or retort is next to be warmed, and a coat of cement ap- 
 plied on the exterior, over every part which is to come into 
 juxtaposition with the cap, but the other parts are not to be 
 unnecessarily soiled; so much cement is to be left adher- 
 ing to the glass, that with what there is in the cap, there 
 may be an excess above the quantity that can be retained be- 
 tween the glass and metal when the tw r o are fitted together. 
 When the cap, glass and cement are all so warm that the latter 
 is fluid or very soft, the cap is to be placed upon the tube, 
 thrust into its right position, receiving a little rotary motion, 
 at the same time to distribute the cement equally over all parts, 
 and is afterwards to be set aside to cool. When this is well 
 performed, the retort neck or tube should pass along until it is 
 stopped by the inside of the shoulder; no cement should soil 
 its interior or project within the cap, but it should fill every 
 part between the glass and the cap to make a firm, tight junc- 
 tion, and project in a ring from the edge of the cap over the 
 exterior of the glass. The superabundance is easily removed 
 by a knife, and the annular surface left made smooth and tight 
 by a hot-wire passed rapidly over it. If a piece of cement, 
 pushed on by the edge of the glass, project in the inside of the 
 cap, it should when nearly cold, be cut off by a knife and re- 
 moved, so that no loose fragment may remain in the retort or 
 tube." 
 
 32. Varletfs Cement. — Take whiting, dry it thoroughly at a. 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 21 
 
 red heat, and reduce it to very fine powder. Melt together 16 
 parts of bl«*ck resin, and 1 part of beeswax, and stir into the 
 melted mass 16 parts of the dry and warm whiting, which 
 should not be so hot as to effect the resin, however. 
 
 33. Singer's Electrical Cement. — Take of resin, 20 parte 
 beeswax, 4 j^arts ; red ochre, 4 parts; plaster-of-Paris, 1 part. 
 Dry the powders thoroughly, and add them while warm to the 
 melted resin and wax. 
 
 34. A cheaper cement, for lining voltaic troughs, is made of 
 6 lbs. resin; 1 lb. red ochre; \ lb. plaster-of-Paris, and \ lb. 
 linseed oil. The ochre and plaster should be thoroughly dried 
 and heated, and added to the other ingredients in their melted 
 state. 
 
 35. Cap Cement for Temperatures from 212° to 300° Fahr.—For 
 cementing glass tubes, necks of balloons, etc., into metal 
 mountings, where the apparatus is to be exposed to heat, a mix- 
 ture of equal parts of red and white lead is preferable to white 
 lead alone. If possible the surface of the glass should be 
 roughened, and a little tow wrapped round the part where the 
 cement is to be applied. This cement takes some time to ac- 
 quire its full degree of hardness. In a week it will stand boil- 
 ing water; in a month it will resist steam at 300°. 
 
 Casein Cements. 
 
 Casein or cheese has long been used for forming cements, 
 either in combination with quick-lime, borax, or more recently, 
 with silicate of soda. The most important point that requires 
 attention, in order to secure success, is the freeing of the casein 
 from all oily matter. Therefore, when curd is prepared from 
 milk, use only the most carefully skimmed milk, quite free 
 from cream. When cheese is used, select the poorest and wash 
 it carefully. 
 
 36. Cheese Cement for Mending China, etc. — Take skim milk 
 cheese cut it in slices and boil it in water. "Wash it in cold 
 water and knead it in warm water several times. Place it 
 warm on a levigating stone and knead it with quicklime. It 
 will join marble, stone or earthenware so that the joining is 
 scarcely to be discovered. See Parabolic Cement. 
 
 37. Casein and Soluble Glass. — Casein dissolved in soluble 
 silicate of soda or potassa, makes a very strong cement for glass 
 or porcelain. Take casein, free from fat, and washed until no 
 longer acid, and silicate of soda solution (waterglass) of each as 
 much as may be needed. Fill a bottle to one-fourth of its 
 
22 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 height with damp casein; then fill the flask with silicate of soda 
 (waterglass), and shake frequently until the casein is dissolved. 
 
 38. Casein Mucilage. — Take the curd of skim-milk (carefully 
 freed from cream or oil), wash it thoroughly and dissolve it 
 to saturation in cold concentrated solution of borax. This 
 mucilage keeps well, and as regards adhesive power, far sur- 
 passes the mucilage of gum arabic. It forms a valuable pre- 
 paration for the laboratory, as when spread on strips of bladder 
 it may be used to stop cracks in glass vessels, and will resist 
 considerable heat. 
 
 39. Add £ pint of vinegar to £ pint skimmed milk; when the 
 curd has settled pour off the liquid, and wash the curd until 
 free from acid. Add the whites of five eggs and beat thoroughly; 
 mix with sufficient finely powdered quicklime to form a 
 paste. This is an excellent cement for mending glass and 
 earthenware. It resists water and a moderate degree of heat. 
 
 Chemical Cement. 
 
 40. Melt yellow beeswax with its weight of turpentine, and 
 color with finely powdered Venetian red. When cold it has the 
 hardness of soap, but is easily softened and moulded with the 
 fingers, and for sticking things together temporarily it is in- 
 valuable. 
 
 The consistence of the cement may be varied by changing the 
 proportions of turpentine and wax, and if a very firm cement 
 is needed, a little resin may be added. 
 
 Chinese Cement— Schio-liao. 
 
 41. To three parts of fresh beaten blood are added four parts 
 of slaked lime and a little alum; a thin, pasty mass is produced, 
 which can be used immediately. Objects which are to be made 
 specially water-proof are painted by the Chinese twice, or at 
 the most three times. Dr. Scherzer saw in Pekin a wooden 
 box which had travelled the tedious road via Siberia to St. 
 Petersburg and back, which was found to be perfectly sound 
 and water-proof. Even baskets made of straw became, by the 
 use of this cement, perfectly serviceable in the transportation 
 of oil. Pasteboard treated therewith receives the appearance 
 and strength of wood. Most of the wooden public buildings 
 of China are painted with schio-liao. which gives them an un- 
 pleasant reddish appearance, but adds to their durability. 
 This cement was tried in the Austrian Department of Agricul- 
 ture, and by the ''Vienna Association of Industry," and in 
 both cases the statements of Dr. Scherzer were found to be 
 strictly accurate. 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 23 
 
 Chinese Glue* 
 
 42. Shellac dissolved in alcohol. Used for joining wood, 
 earthenware, glass, etc. This cement requires considerable 
 time to become thoroughly hard, and even then is not 
 as strong as good glue. Its portability is its only recommen- 
 dation. 
 
 Coppersmith's Cement. 
 
 43. Powdered quicklime mixed with bullock's blood and ap- 
 plied immediately. See Chinese Cement. 
 
 Corks, Cement For 
 
 44. To render corks impervious to air, acids, alkalies and cor- 
 rosive liquors generally, boil them for some time in melted 
 paraffine. They must be kept under the surface of the melted 
 material, and should be heated and allowed to cool several 
 times, so as to get all the air out of the pores. Corks thus 
 treated cut easily and make vary close joints. For cements for 
 coating cork, see Bottle Cement. 
 
 Curd Cement. See Casein. 
 
 Cutler's Cement. 
 
 This is the name given to various kinds of cement used for 
 fastening knives, etc. , in their handles. 
 
 45. A very firm cement is made of 4 parts resin, 1 of bees- 
 wax, into which, when melted, 1 part of fine brick dust is 
 stirred. It adheres with great firmness. 
 
 46. Take powdered resin and mix with it a small quantity 
 of powdered chalk, whiting or slaked lime. Fill the hole in 
 the handle with the mixture, heat the tang of the knife 
 or fork, and thrust in. When cold it will be securely 
 fastened. 
 
 47. Take one lb. resin and 8 oz. sulphur, melt together, form 
 into bars, or when cold reduce to powder. One part of the 
 powder is to be mixed with half a part of iron fillings, brick 
 dust or fine sand; fill the cavity of the handle with the mixture 
 and insert the tang, previously heated. 
 
 48. Pitch, 4 parts; resin, 4; tallow, 2; brick dust, 2. Melt 
 the first three ingredients and add the brick dust hot and finely 
 powdered. 
 
 49. Chopped hair, flax, hemp or tow, mixed with powdsred 
 resin and applied as above. 
 
 Diamond Cement. See Armenian Cement. 
 
24 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 Dextrine. 
 
 50. This is prepared from starch by the action of heat, dias- 
 tase, or acids, and is sometimes called starch gum and British gum. 
 As usually sold, it is a whitish, insipid powder, having a 
 pleasant odor of cucumbers. It is soluble in cold and hot 
 water, and in very dilute alcohol, but it is insoluble in strong 
 alcohol and ether. 
 
 In France it is largely employed by pastry cooks and con- 
 fectioners, and by surgeons, as a stiffening for the splints used 
 for fractured limbs. It has also been made up into roundish 
 masses and sold for gum Arabic. 
 
 It is said to be used by the British for "gumming" their 
 postage stamps, but careful trial has convinced us that the best 
 specimens in market are not equal to good gum Arabic. It is 
 cheaper, however, and for ordinary purposes is strong enough. 
 
 Dextrine is easily prepared for use. It may be mixed with 
 cold water and stirred or beaten for a few moments, when it will 
 dissolve very completely. It may be used immediately, or it 
 may be boiled. This we think improves it. 
 
 Egg Cement. 
 
 A number of very cohesive cements, impervious to water and 
 most liquids and vapors, for a short time, are made by the 
 union of quicklime with many of the vegetable and animal 
 mucilages and glues. The following is said by Aiken to have 
 been extensively employed by chemists for centuries under the 
 name of " egg cement." 
 
 51. Take some white of eggs with as much water, beat them 
 well together, and sprinkle in sufficient slaked lime to make 
 the whole up to the consistence of thin paste. This cement 
 sets or becomes hard very quickly, and must be used at once. 
 It is employed to mend earthenware, china, glass, marble, ala- 
 baster, spar ornaments, etc. Although waterproof to a certain 
 extent, it does not resist moisture long unless it has been ex- 
 posed to heat. 
 
 _ 52. Take freshly burnt plaster-of-Paris, 5 parts; freshly burnt 
 lime, 1 part; white of egg as much as may be needed. Reduce 
 the two first ingredients to a very fine powder and mix them 
 well; moisten the two surfaces to be united with a small quan- 
 tity of white of egg, to make them adhesive; then mix the 
 powder very rapidly with white of egg, and apply the mix- 
 ture to the broken surfaces. If they are large, two persons 
 should do this, each applying the cement to one portion. The 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 25 
 
 pieces are then firmly pressed together, and left undisturbed 
 for several days. 
 
 Elastic Cement. 
 
 53. Le filler's Elastic Cement. — Caoutchouc, 5 parts; chloro- 
 •form, 3 parts; dissolve and add powdered gum mastic, 1 part. 
 
 Elastic and transparent. 
 
 54. Cut india rubber into fine shreds and dissolve together 
 1 ounce of the rubber, 4 ounces of bisulphide of carbon, 2 
 drachms of isinglass, and £• half ounce of gutta percha; in using 
 this the parts to be joined must be covered with a thin coat of 
 the solution, and be allowed to dry a few minutes; then heat 
 to melting, place the parts together and compress until cold; 
 this is useful for cementing leather or india rubber. (Doubt- 
 ful). 
 
 55. Gutta percha, 1 lb; caoutchouc, 4 oz; pitch, 2 oz; shel- 
 lac, 1 oz; linseed oil, 2 oz; melt together. Must be heated 
 when applied. 
 
 Electrical Cement. See Cap Cement 
 Extemporaneous Cement. 
 
 This term is applied to almost pure shellac and mastic. See 
 
 Shellac and Armenian Cement. 
 
 Faraday's Cap Cement. See Cap Cement. 
 Fire-Proof Cement. 
 
 It is easy to find a recipe for a fire-proof cement, but it is 
 . very difficult to find a cement that will stand a red heat. It is 
 well to bear in mind the fact that no cement containing organic 
 matter (such as glue, flour, oil, etc.), can maintain any adhesive 
 power at a red heat, since all such substances are decomposed 
 at that temperature. Cements containing oil, etc., may do to 
 fill cracks, but not to hold two surfaces together. We know of 
 no cement that can be depended upon for this purpose to any 
 great extent. For some purposes the glass cements Nos. 60 and 
 61 answer very well. 
 
 56. Often a cement is required to join the covers to crucibles, 
 or for similar purposes, so as to keep them air tight when hot. 
 A very valuable composition of the kind is made of glass of 
 borax, (fused borax), brick dust and clay, finely powdered to- 
 gether and mixed with a little water when used. No very great 
 nicety is required in the proportions but about a tenth of borax 
 is quite sufficient to bring the earths to that state of semi- 
 
26 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 vitrification which is desired. Litharge may be used instead of 
 borax, but the latter is by far the best, as it promotes that 
 thin spreading fusion which is most efficient. 
 
 57. A cement which is said to be useful, for stopping 
 cracks in iron vessels which are intended to be strongly heated, 
 is made of 6 parts of clay, 1 of iron filings, and linseed oil 
 enough for mixture. The oil will, of course, be speedily de- 
 stroyed, but will leave enough carbonaceous residue to unite 
 the remainder into a firm mass. 
 
 We should prefer, however, to depend on the iron cement of 
 which the formula is given in Nos. 92, 93 and 94. 
 
 58. The following cement is said to be very hard, and to 
 present complete resistance alike to a red heat and boiling 
 water: To four or five parts of clay, thoroughly dried and 
 pulverized, add two parts of fine iron filings free from oxide, 
 one part of peroxide of manganese, one half of common salt, 
 and one half of borax; mingle thoroughly; render as fine as 
 possible; then reduce to a thick paste with the necessary 
 quantity of water, mixing well. It must be used immediately. 
 After application it should be exposed to warmth, gradually in- 
 creasing almost to a white heat. 
 
 Fish Glue. 
 
 Isinglass is sometimes called by this name, but will be found 
 described under its own heading. There is also a coarse variety 
 of glue prepared from fish, which will be found described under 
 the heading, " Glue, Fish" See also, " Glue, Lapland.'" 
 
 French Cement. 
 
 59. Mix thick mucilage of gum arabic with powdered starch; 
 a little lemon juice is sometimes added. Used by naturalists 
 in mounting specimens; by artificial-flower makers, and by 
 confectioners to stick paper ornaments, wafers, papers, etc., on 
 their fancy cakes. 
 
 Glass Cement. 
 
 There are two kinds of so-called glass cement, and both are 
 said to be very excellent for uniting broken glass, china, etc. 
 
 60. Take pulverized glass, 10 parts; powdered fluorspar, 20 
 parts; soluble silicate of soda, 60 parts. Both glass and fluor- 
 spar must be in the finest possible condition, which is best 
 done by shaking each, in fine powder, with water, allowing the 
 coarser particles to deposit, and then to pour off the remainder, 
 which holds the finest particles in suspension. The mixture 
 must be made very rapidly, by quick stirring, and when thor- 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 27 
 
 oughly mixed must be at ouce applied. This is said to yield 
 an excellent cement. 
 
 61. Take red lead, 3 parts; fine white sand, 2 parts; crystal- 
 lized boracic acid, 3 parts. These ingredients are mixed and 
 fused, and then reduced to a very fine powder which may be 
 made into a paste with a dilute solution of soluble glass, and 
 applied as an ordinary cement, or it may be mixed with very 
 weak gum water, (just enough gum to make it adhesive), after 
 it has been applied, the articles are exposed to a heat sufficient 
 to melt the fusible glass, which is formed by the union of the 
 three ingredients. 
 
 Glass, Transparent Cement For See Canada Balsam. 
 Glue. 
 
 62. Glue is, undoubtedly, the most important cement used in 
 the arts. It serves to unite wood, paper, and almost all organic 
 materials. The carpenter, the cabinet maker, the bookbinder, 
 the hatter, and numerous other trades use it extensively, and in 
 some cases to the exclusion of everything else. Good glue, 
 properly prepared and well applied, will unite pieces of wood 
 with a degree of strength which leaves nothing to be desired. 
 The fibres of the hardest and toughest wood will tear asunder 
 before the glued surfaces will separate, and certainly anything 
 more than this would be unnecessary. Mr. Bevan found that 
 when two cylinders of dry ash, each an inch and a half in 
 diameter, were glued together, and then torn asunder after a 
 lapse of twenty-four hours, it required a force of 1260 lbs. to 
 separate them, and consequently the force of adhesion was 
 equal to 715 lbs. per square inch. From a subsequent experi- 
 ment on solid glue he found that its cohesion is equal to 4000 
 lbs. per square inch. This would indicate that our methods 
 of applying this substance as a cement are capable of improve- 
 ment, and it is undoubtedly true that great care and skill must 
 be used if the best results would be obtained. 
 
 Good glue is hard, clear (not necessarily light-colored, how- 
 ever,) and free from bad taste and smell. Glue which is easily 
 dissolved in cold water is not strong. Good glue merely swells 
 in cold water and must be heated to the boiling point before it 
 will dissolve thoroughly. Good glue requires more water than 
 that which is poor, consequently, you cannot dissolve six 
 pounds of good glue in the same quantity of water you can six 
 pounds of poor glue. The best glue, which is clear and red, 
 will require from one-half to more than double the water that is 
 required with poor glue. From careful experiments with dry 
 glue immersed for twenty-four hours in water at 60° Fahr., and 
 
28 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 thereby transformed into a jelly, it was found that the finest 
 
 ordinary glue, or that made from white bones, absorbs twelve 
 times its weight of water in twenty-tour hours; the glue from 
 dark bones, absorbs nine times its weight of water, while the 
 ordinary glue made from animal refuse, absorbs but three to 
 five times its weight of water. 
 
 The quality of glue may, to a certain extent, be estimated by 
 breaking a piece. If good, it will break hard and tough, and 
 when broken will be irregular on the broken edge. If jjoor, 
 it will break comparatively easily, leaving a smooth straight 
 edge. 
 
 Glue is insoluble in alcohol, though a small quantity of alcohol 
 may be mixed with the solution without difficulty; but if too 
 much alcohol be used, the glue separates from the water and falls 
 to the bottom of the vessel in the form of a white viscid substance. 
 Neither does it dissolve in ether, or in the fixed, or the essential 
 oils, although oily matters of all kinds may be incorporated 
 with the solution of glue forming a sort of emulsion. These 
 facts will enable our readers to judge of the value of those 
 recipes in which they are directed to dissolve glue in alcohol 
 or in oil, for the purpose of making a glue which will remain 
 liquid at all times. A little alcohol may be added, but if the 
 amount of alcohol be sufficient to produce any marked effect, 
 the glue is apt to separate. One of the most marked charac- 
 teristics of good glue is its property of gelatinizing. By this 
 is meant the fact that a moderately, strong solution of glue 
 which is . quite fluid when hot, forms a stiff jelly when cold. 
 This property is no bad test of the quality of glue. The firmer 
 the jelly the better the glue. In ignorance of this principle, 
 some persons have made great efforts to get rid of this pro- 
 perty, and acids and various salts have been added to the so- 
 lution of glue for the purpose of preventing its gelatinization, 
 and thus retaining it in a liquid form that would be ready for 
 use at any moment. But by those who have devoted the most 
 careful attention to the subject, the fact stands unquestioned 
 that the strongest glue is that which is purest and which gela- 
 tinizes or sets most completely. 
 
 Glue being an animal substance, it must be kept sweet, and 
 free from putrefaction; to do this it is necessary to keep it cool 
 after it is once dissolved, and while not in use. 
 
 The most serious defects in glue are the mixture of extrane- 
 ous matters and incipient putrefaction. There are other sub- 
 stances, beside gelatin, present in the matters from which glue 
 is prepared, and unless these substances are caref ully separated 
 the glue will prove of inferior quality. Hence, in selecting 
 glue, choose that which is transparent and free from clouds or 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 29 
 
 flocks in its substance. Very clear and colorless glue is by no 
 means the best, but, whatever be the color, see that it is clear. 
 It is true that in some cases very finely divided powders have 
 been added to glue with the avowed object of rendering it 
 stronger. We feel inclined to believe, however, that such ad- 
 ditions serve merely to cloak defects in the glue itself, or in 
 the mode in which it is applied. Peter Cooper is said to add 
 very finely divided Paris white to his glue, and it is claimed 
 that the glue is improved not only in appearance but in actual 
 strength. How this may be we know not. White-lead added 
 to glue is said to make it water-proof as well as to strengthen it, 
 and from the well-known relation of white-lead to oils and 
 animal substances it is not impossible that this may be the 
 case. For our own part, however, we have always found good 
 pure glue equal to any requirements which we might demand 
 of it. 
 
 The other, and by far the greatest and most common defect 
 in glufc is incipient putrefaction. This may occur either at the 
 glue-factory or in the workshop of the mechanic; and in either 
 case it is fatal to the strength of the glue. It may often be de- 
 tected, however, by the smell and taste. The odors of good 
 glue and of that which has begun to decay are so different 
 that, once observed, they will never be forgotten. Glue 
 which has begun to putrefy at the factory may not exhibit any 
 odor so long as it is kept perfectly dry, and it may even have 
 been so deodorized by bone black or the action of chemicals, 
 that it does not exhibit a bad odor when first moistened. But 
 when allowed to stand for a very short time, especially in warm 
 weather, putrefaction again commences, and the odor is quite 
 perceptible, while good glue will remain sweet and sound under 
 the same conditions. 
 
 Glue which exhibits a bad odor when moistened, should be 
 rejected and used only for making size, and for uniting the 
 coarser varieties of articles; and when the glue-pot begins to 
 exhibit any signs of putref action, it ought to be carefully 
 cleaned out and thoroughly soaked and washed, for putrefac- 
 tion acts likes a ferment, and the jn-esence of a little bad glue 
 will soon destroy a whole batch of a good article. 
 
 The preparation of glue demands care rather than skill. In 
 dissolving glue, it is best to weigh the glue, and weigh or 
 measure the water. If not done there is a liability of get- 
 ting more glue than the water can properly dissolve. It is a- 
 good plan, when once the quantity of water that any sample 
 of glue will take up has been ascertained, to put the glue and 
 water together at least six hours before heat is applied, and if 
 not soft enough then, let it remain longer in soak, for there is 
 
30 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 no danger of good glue remaining in pure water, even for forty- 
 eight hours, provided the weather be cold, but it must not be 
 allowed to lie too long in that liquid or it will begin to decay, 
 especially in warm weather. To meet this difficulty, and 
 secure the quick soaking of the glue, there has of late years 
 been introduced a pulverized or granulated article which is 
 very excellent. Frozen glue, made porous by freezing, is also 
 used with this object in view. After being soaked the glue 
 should be melted, great care being taken that it be not burned. 
 Next to putrefaction, burning is the great destroyer of glue. 
 Burnt glue is always weak. If kept dry, glue may be pre- 
 served for any length of time, but when once moistened even 
 the best samples soon. spoil. No more glue should be prepared 
 at any one time than is to be used immediately, and whenever 
 a job requiring extra strength is to be executed, it will always 
 pay to prepare a fresh lot. Formerly, when glue was generally 
 heated over the naked fire the old-fashioned glue-pot was al- 
 ways used. This pot is double — the space between tke outer 
 and inner vessels being tilled with water. Consequently where 
 this pot is employed, the glue can never be made hotter than 
 boiling water, and thus all danger of burning is avoided. 
 Now that more delicate and convenient modes of heating have 
 been devised, this old pot has in some cases been dismissed, 
 to the evident deterioration of the process. Even steam 
 should never be employed except to heat water in the outer 
 case. In applying glue it should be remembered that the 
 thinner the layer which is applied the stronger will be the 
 joint, and the less water there is combined with the glue the 
 sooner will it dry, and consequently the less will the joint be 
 exposed to accidental disturbance before union has fairly oc- 
 curred. Carpenters should remember that fresh glue dries 
 more readily than that which has been once or twice 
 melted. 
 
 If glue is of first-rate quality, it can be used on most kiuds of 
 woodwork very thin, and make the joint as strong as the original, 
 but it is necessary that the glue be brought into intimate con- 
 tact with the entire surface of the wood. The necessity for this 
 has been fully explained in our introduction. f 
 
 A drop of melted glue allowed to simply fall on a surface 
 Df dry, cold wood and dry there, will often fail to adhere at all, 
 ivhile if the same drop had been rubbed in, it would have at- 
 tached itself to the surface with wonderful tenacity. In ap- 
 plying glue, therefore, we must secure this perfect contact, and 
 we must also employ every means in our power to delay the 
 gelatinization of the glue until the joint has been completed. 
 The glue should therefore be used while very hot, as hot as it 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 31 
 
 will bear, and in very cold weather the wood itself should be 
 warmed The glue should be well rubbed in with a stiff brush 
 and the two surfaces should be rubbed well together and re- 
 tained in contact under great pressure until the glue has be- 
 come somewhat dry. Complete dryness rarely takes place 
 under several days; but after the lapse of twelve hours the 
 joint becomes tolerably strong. A joint made in this way is 
 probably as strong as can be made by any ordinary process. 
 
 Glue, Fish. 
 
 63. An attempt has been made to prepare glue from the 
 skins and refuse of fish in the same way that ordinary glue is 
 prepared from the skins and offal of land animals Such glue 
 has been made in large quantity, and forms a very good size 
 for some purposes. Thus far, however, it has been found im- 
 possible to free it from a very disagreeable fish-like odor, and 
 another objection is, that it does not gelatinize. It is probable 
 that by exercising greater care and by using the skins alone, 
 freeing them from scales and oil, a very strong and serviceable 
 glue might be prepared. The ordinary method at present in 
 use for curing fish, will, probably, at no distant day, give 
 place to others by which the product will be more condensed 
 and more palatable. In that case it is probable that fish skins 
 will be an important part of the refuse, and a method of ob- 
 taining good glue from them will be a most valuable process. 
 That there is no inherent difficulty with mere fish product is 
 shown by the manufacture of isinglass, which is one of the 
 strongest glues that w r e have. The northern seas will probably 
 be the chief seats of this new industry, as the skins can then be 
 subjected to the processes required, without such danger from 
 putrefaction as exists in warm climates. See Glue, Lapland. 
 
 64. A correspondent of one of our technological papers de- 
 scribes a method of preparing glue from fish scales. We have 
 never tried it, but give his account of it for what it is worth. 
 He says: " The natives of the Maldive and Lacadive Islands, 
 and the Malays, of the coasts of Borneo and Sumatra, have a 
 glue which they make as follows: — They take the scales of a 
 kind of fish, called by English and American sailors, salt-water 
 trout, (identical with the salt-water trout of the Gulf of Mexico), 
 and after thoroughly washing them in a glazed earthen jar, 
 which they stopper tightly, and weight so that it will re- 
 main under water, they put this jar in a pot of water, and 
 boil it until the scales are reduced to a semi-transparent vis- 
 cous mass. This requires several hours' boiling. Care should 
 be taken that no water or extraneous matter, fluid or solid, be 
 allowed to get into the jar with the scales. The glue thus made 
 
32 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 is the most tenacious, and at the same time the most transparent 
 and beautiful that I have ever seen. I have made it in this 
 country from the scales of perch, trout, and bass. I am in- 
 formed that a similar glue is made from the bladders of 
 various fishes." 
 
 Glue, Lapland. 
 
 65. The bows of the Laplanders are composed of two pieces 
 of wood, glued together. One of them is of birch, which is 
 flexible, and the other of the fir of the marshes, which is 
 stiff, in order that the bow when bent may not break a'nd when 
 unbent it may not bend. When these two pieces are bent, all 
 the points of contact endeavor to disunite themselves, and ta 
 prevent this the Laplanders employ the following cement: 
 They take the skins of the largest perches, and having dried 
 them so that the greasy part may be removed by scraping and 
 wiping, and the oil soaked out by any porous material, they 
 soak them in water until they are so soft that they may be 
 freed from the scales, which are thrown away. They then put 
 four or five of these skins in a reindeer's bladder, or they wrap' 
 them up in the soft bark of the birch tree, in such a manner thai 
 water cannot touch them, and place them thus covered in a po{ 
 of boiling water with a stone above them to keep them at the 
 bottom. When they have boiled about an hour, they take 
 them from the bladder or bark, and they are then found to be 
 soft or viscous, like strong glue. In this state they employ 
 them for glueing together the two pieces of their bows, which 
 they strongly compress together and tie up until the glue is 
 well dried. These pieces never afterward separate. See Glue, 
 Fish. 
 
 Glue, Liquid. 
 
 Various attempts have, as we have already stated, been made, 
 with the intention of retaining the glue in a liquid form, and of 
 thus avoiding the inconvenience attending the use of a cement 
 which requires to be liquified by heat w r henever it is to be used. 
 The addition of a little nitric acid will prevent the glue from 
 gelatinizing or becoming solid, and the same effect is produced 
 by the addition of a little vinegar, or, rather of pyrol igneous 
 acid, which will also prevent it from moulding. It is sup- 
 posed that the latter is substantially the formula for making 
 the well-known Spaulding's glue. The addition of these sub- 
 stances injure the glue, however. Spaulding's glue may be 
 
CEMENTS AND &LOE. 
 
 33 
 
 more convenient than common glue, but it is far inferior to it 
 in strength. More recently it has been proposed to add sul- 
 phate or chloride of zinc to common glue for the purpose of 
 keeping it liquid. We have never tried it, but we have no faith 
 in it. A solution of shellac in alcohol has been used and highly 
 extolled as a substitute for common glue. It forms a tolerable 
 liquid cement, but is far inferior to glue. Any of the follow- 
 ing recipes will afford a liquid glue which will answer well 
 enough for purposes where no great strength is required; but 
 we know of no cement which is more convenient than com- 
 mon glue, and yet which will unite wood with anything like 
 the efficiency of that article. 
 
 66. Dumoulin's Liquid and Unalterable Glue. — This is one of 
 the oldest forms and one of the best; it is prepared as follows: 
 Soak 8 oz. of best glue in \ pint of water in a wide-mouthed 
 bottle and melt by heating the bottle in a water-bath. Then 
 add slowly 2£ oz. of nitric acid, spec. gr. 1*330, stirring con- 
 stantly. Effervescence takes place under escape of nitrous 
 acid gas. When all the acid has been added, the liquid is al- 
 lowed to cool. Keep it well corked, and it will be ready for 
 use at any moment. It does not gelatinize, or putrefy, or fer- 
 ment. It is applicable to many domestic uses, such as mend- 
 ing china, wood, etc. 
 
 67. Liquid Glue. — A very strong glue may be made by 
 dissolving 4 ounces of glue in 16 ounces of strong acetic 
 acid by the id of heat. It is semi-solid at ordinary ten> 
 peratures, but needs only to be warmed, by placing the 
 vessel containing it in hot water for a short time, to be ready 
 for use. 
 
 68. Dilute officinal phosphoric acid with two parts, by weight, 
 of water, and saturate with carbonate of ammonia; dilute the re- 
 sulting liquid, which must be still somewhat acid, with another 
 part of distilled water, warm it on a water-bath, and dissolve 
 in it enough good glue to form a thick, syrupy liquid. It must 
 be kept in well-closed bottles. 
 
 69. Spaulding's Glue.— This is simply good glue prepared 
 with strong vinegar instead of water. Dilute, rectified pyro- 
 ligneous acid, which is a coarse form of vinegar containing a 
 very little creosote, may be used. It prevents mould and 
 fermentation. 
 
 70. Glue, water and vinegar of each 2 parts. Dissolve in a 
 waterbath and add alcohol 1 part. 
 
31 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 71. A solution of shellac in alcohol is often sold under the 
 name of "'liquid glue." See Chinese Glue. 
 
 72. Macerate 6 parts of glue in 16 parts of water, until the 
 glue is swollen and soft. Add 1 part of hydrochloric acid, and 
 l£ parts sulphate of zinc, and let the mixture be kept for ten or 
 twelve hours at a temperature of 68° to 70° Cent, (154° to 158° 
 Fahr.) Answers admirably for attaching labels to tin and to 
 glass when exposed to damp. 
 
 73. The writer of the following claims to have a personal 
 knowledge of its excellence: " An excellent liquid glue is made 
 by dissolving glue in nitric ether. The ether will only dissolve 
 a certain amount of the glue: consequently, the solution cannot 
 be made too thick. The glue thus made is about the consis- 
 tency of molasses, and is doubly as tenacious as that made with 
 hot water (?). If a few bits of india-rubber, cut into scraps the 
 size of a buck-shot, be added, and the solution allowed to stand 
 a few days, being stirred frequently, it will be all the better, 
 and will resist dampness twice as well as glue made with 
 water." 
 
 Glue, Mouth or Lip, 
 
 Mouth glue forms a very convenient portable cement of con- 
 siderable adhesiveness. For some purposes, especially for at- 
 taching drawing paper to a board, it is the most convenient 
 form, but for ordinary desk use, the mucilage bottle is to be 
 , preferred. Mouth glue may be purchased in cakes from the 
 dealers in artists' supplies. Those who attempt to make it 
 themselves should use a very pure form of glue or gelatine, 
 quite free from smell or taint, as this will prove very disgusting 
 when the glue is moistened with the lips. Sugar is generally 
 added, not for the purpose of sweetening the article, but to 
 render it more soluble. It will be found that a pure, but dark 
 brown sugar is better than a white article, and a little syrup or 
 molasses better than either. When molasses is substituted for 
 sugar the quantity employed may be greatly diminished. 
 
 We have often used a nice article of common glue instead of 
 the so-called mouth glue. It requires a little more rubbing 
 than the moiLtik. glue, but it holds more strongly, and resists 
 better the wetting to which mechanical and architectural draw- 
 ings are subjected. 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 85 
 
 74. Soak 4 oz. best glue and 1 oz. isinglass in water until 
 soft. Pour off the superfluous water, and add 1 oz. of brown 
 sugar. Melt the whole together with a gentle heat, and allow 
 it to evaporate until quite thick. Pour into a flat-bottomed 
 dish that is quite cold; if placed on ice, so much the better, as 
 it will prevent the glue sticking to it. When solid, cut into 
 cakes. 
 
 75. Glue, 5 oz. ; sugar, 1 oz. ; dissolved in water, boiled down, 
 poured into moulds and dried. 
 
 76. Take of isinglass and parchment glue, each one ounce; of 
 sugar candy and gum tragacanth, each 2 drachms; add to them 
 an ounce of water, boil the whole till the mixture appears, when 
 cold, of the consistence of glue. Then form it into small rolls 
 for use. This glue, wetted with the tongue and rubbed on 
 the edges of the paper, silk, etc., to be cemented, will, on 
 their being laid together and suffered to dry, unite them as 
 firmly as any other part of the surface. 
 
 Glue, Portable. 
 
 77. Put a pinch of shredded gelatine into a wide-mouthed 
 bottle; put on it a very little water, and about one-fourth part 
 of glacial acetic acid; put in a well-fitting cork. If the right 
 quantity of water and acid be used, the gelatine will swell up 
 into worm-like pieces, quite elastic, but at the same time, firm 
 enough to be handled comfortably. The acid will make the 
 preparation keep indefinitely. When required for use, take a 
 small fragment of the swelled gelatine, and warm the end of it 
 in the flame of a match or candle; it will immediately "run " 
 into a fine clear glue, which can be applied at once direct to the 
 article to be mended. The thing is done in half a minute, and 
 is, moreover, done well, for the gelatine so treated makes the 
 very best and finest glue that can be had. This plan might be 
 modified by dissolving a trace of chrome alum in the water 
 used for moistening the gelatine, in which case, no doubt, the 
 glue would become insoluble when set. But fo:: general pur- 
 poses, there is no need for subsequent insolubility in glue. 
 
 Glycerine Cement, 
 
 78. In 1869, Hirzel obtained, by triturating litharge with 
 glycerine, a mass which he found useful as a cement for 
 vessels containing benzol, ethereal oils, etc., as it possessed the 
 property of soon hardening. During the same year, Pollack 
 recommended the same mass as a cement for stone and iron 
 ware, and pointed out that it was attacked only by strong 
 acids; also, that its durability is the greater, the more water the 
 litharge had absorbed, since the latter, when entirely dry, 
 
36 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 yielded a cement of feeble adhesiveness only. Bost, in 1870, 
 found this cement proof against concentrated [?] and diluted 
 acids, alkaline lyes, ether, alcohol, benzol, and carbon disul- 
 phide. 
 
 The somewhat contradictory statements regarding the power 
 of resistance against acids of this cement, as well as the desire 
 to find out whether glycerine entered into a chemical combin- 
 ation with litharge, led Theodor Morawski to investigate the 
 subject. He obtained a definite compound, crystallizing in 
 fine needles, which was found to be a glyceride of lead. 
 
 From a large number of experiments instituted to ascertain 
 the most favorable conditions for the production of a perfect 
 cement, the author obtained the following results: The hardest 
 cement is produced by triturating fifty grammes of litharge with 
 five cubic centimetres of glycerine. If more glycerine is used, 
 the mass hardens much more slowly and imperfectly. 
 
 The small proportion of glycerine, however, makes it imprac- 
 ticable to prepare large quantities of the cement at a time. For 
 this purpose it will be necessary to take more glycerine, in order 
 to facilitate the trituration. But as it was also proved that the 
 addition of a small quantity of water produced an equally 
 durable cement, provided the proper proportions are observed, 
 he found, after many trials, that the most favorable results are 
 obtained by adding 2 volumes of water to 5 volumes of gly- 
 cerine (spec. gr. 1*240); 6 cubic centimetres of this liquid are 
 incorporated with 50 grammes of litharge. This mass requires a 
 shorter time than any other proportions to produce a hard 
 cement, 10 minutes only being required to harden moderately, 
 while, after 2 hours, it becomes even harder than any mixture 
 containing litharge with glycerine alone. But, after a few days, 
 the latter compound (prepared without water) overtakes the 
 former in hardness and remains so. If it is desired to pro- 
 duce a cement which rapidly hardens, and still has considerable 
 firmness, it is advisable to use water with the glycerine. — Ding- 
 lev's Polyt. Journal. 
 
 The applications of this cement are innumerable. Chemists 
 and others know well the difficulty of keeping very volatile 
 liquids. Bottles of ether, for example, are shipped for India, 
 and when they arrive are found to be more than half empty. 
 The chemist sometimes puts a bottle of benzole or bisulphide 
 of carbon on his shelves, and when he next requires it, he finds 
 the bottle empty and dry. The usual, remedy fortius is a 
 luting of melted sulphur, which is difficult to apply and hard 
 to remove. Glycerine cement, however, is easily prepared and 
 applied, and is said to prevent the escape of the most volatile 
 liquids. It is merely painted around the cork or stopper. It 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 37 
 
 quickly dries, and becomes extremely hard, but can be easily 
 scraped off with a knife, when it is necessary to open the 
 bottle. 
 
 79. Pollack's Formula. — Take litharge and red lead, equal 
 parts, mix thoroughly and make into a paste with concentrated 
 glycerine to the consistence of soft putty. This cement takes 
 some time to dry, but it turns almost as hard as stone, and re- 
 sists moisture and heat very well. Mr. Pollack has used it to 
 fasten the different portions of a fly-wheel with great success; 
 while when placed between stones and once hardened, it is 
 easier to break the stone than the joint. 
 
 Grinder's Cement. See Optician's Cement and Turner's Cement 
 
 Gum Arabic— Gum Acacia. 
 
 80. Gum Arabic is the product of various species of Acacia. 
 It is the material from which true mucilage is made, and it 
 forms one of the most valuable cements that we have. Fara- 
 day tells us, in his work on " Chemical Manipulation, " that 
 there is no cement which exceeds it for strength. 
 
 Pure gum Arabic is in roundish or irregular pieces of various 
 sizes more or less transparent, hard, brittle, and breaking with 
 a shining fracture. It is usually white or yellowish white, but 
 frequently presents various shades of red, and is, sometimes, of 
 a deep orange or brownish color. In powder it is always more 
 or less purely white. 
 
 It is liable to adulteration both in powder and in masses. 
 Much of the white gum Arabic of the shops, consists of the 
 cheaper and coarser gum Senegal, bleached by what is called 
 " Picciotto's process." The gum is dissolved in water, and sul- 
 phurous acid gas passed through the solution. The liquid is 
 afterwards boiled to expel the sulphurous acid, a little of 
 which, however, still remains behind. The product is -very 
 white, but lacks the peculiar toughness and adhesiveness of 
 the best gum Aoacia. 
 
 The powdered gum is frequently adulterated with dextrine, 
 gum Senegal, starch, sugar, cherry-tree gum, etc. These sub- 
 stances are not difficult of detection, but where a good article is 
 required for preparing a cement, it is best to purchase gum 
 Arabic in lump from a reliable dealer, taking care, in any case, 
 to avoid the bleached article. 
 
 Powdered gum has no advantage, except in the fact that it 
 dissolves more quickly than when in lumps. It, therefore, forms, 
 when in this state, a very convenient and portable cement, 
 which may be made ready in an instant by the addition of a 
 little water. 
 
38 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 For preparing gummed surfaces which will adhere when 
 moistened (such as gummed labels, etc.), there is no material 
 superior to gum Arabic. 
 
 The great difficulty with gum Arabic, and, indeed, with other 
 gums and pastes, lies in the fact that when thoroughly dry, they 
 become brittle, so that the label or other object falls off. 
 A simple remedy for this difficulty lies in the addition of from 
 five to ten drops of glycerine to each fluid ounce of mucilage 
 or paste. 
 
 Gum Arabic is used not only alone, but when mixed with 
 other matters. The following formula produce very good 
 cements. 
 
 81. Rub together, in a mortar, two parts of nitrate of lime, 
 twenty-five of water and twenty of powdered gum Arabic. 
 This forms a transparent cement of great strength and ap- 
 plicable to wood, porcelain, glass and stone. The surfaces to 
 be united should be painted with the cement and firmly bound 
 together until the drying is complete. 
 
 82. A white paste, adhesive to most surfaces, is said to be 
 made as follows: A solution of 2^ ounces gum Arabic in two 
 quarts of warm water, is thickened with flour paste well 
 boiled, and to this is added a solution of alum and sugar 
 of lead, 720 grains each, in water; the mixture is heated 
 and stirred till about to boil, and then cooled. It may 
 be thinned, if necessary, with the gum solution. It will be 
 seen that this mucilage consists of a solution of gum Arabic 
 and flour paste in acetate of alumina, colored white with sul- 
 phate of lead. » 
 
 83. To 250 grammes of mucilage prepared by dissolving 2 
 parts of gum in 5 of water, add 2 grammes of crystallized sul- 
 phate of aluminum dissolved in the least possible quantity of 
 water. A solution of alum does not answer as well as the 
 simple sulphate of alumina, which can be prepared from alum by 
 precipitating the alumina with ammonia, washing thoroughly 
 on a filter, and dissolving in sulphuric acid. The mucilage 
 thus prepared does not sour or mould, and may be used as a 
 cement for general purposes. 
 
 84. It is said that a mixture of one part of dry chloride 
 of calcium, or two parts of the same salt in the crystallized 
 form, and thirty six parts of gum Arabic, dissolved in\vater to 
 a proper consistency, forms a mucilage which holds well, does 
 not crack by drying, and yet does not attract sufficient mois- 
 ture from the air to become wet in damp weather. 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 89 
 
 Gum Tragacanth. 
 
 85. Known amongst mechanics as gum dragon and gum 
 drag. It comes in irregular-shaped fragments, varying in 
 size from that of a small pea to a hazel nut or larger. It is 
 yellowish white, and sometimes translucent like horn. It is 
 hard and tough, and very difficult to reduce to powder unless 
 when exposed to a freezing temperature, or when thoroughly 
 dried and ground in a heated mill or mortar. When so 
 treated, however, it is possible to produce a very fine white 
 powder. When thrown into water, it absorbs that liquid 
 and swells up and forms a paste which is largely used by 
 shoemakers, and by manufacturers of lozenges, as it gives 
 great toughness to the mass of sugar and other ingredients. 
 
 If sufficient water be used, and the soft mass be heated or 
 mixed up, it forms a uniform, soft, adhesive paste. If allowed 
 to settle, however, part of the gum separates from the water, 
 and is deposited. Boiling water dissolves the gum more per- 
 fertly at first, but even when so treated, it separates afterwards. 
 
 According to M. Planche, a mixture of gum tragacanth and 
 gum Arabic forms, with water, a thinner mucilage than the same 
 quantity of either of these gums alone. 
 
 86. Equal parts of tragacanth powder and powdered gum 
 acacia (gum Arabic), moistened, according to requirements at 
 the time, with dilute acetic acid, or, if the color will not be of 
 any importance, with ordinary vinegar. This forms a very 
 strong mucilage which keeps well. 
 
 Gutta Percha Cement, See Aquarium Cement, No. 9. 
 
 Hensler's Cement. 
 
 87. Litharge, 3 parts; quicklime. 2 parts; white bole, 1 part; 
 grind up with boiled linseed oil. Forms a very tenacious 
 and hard cement, but one that takes a long time to dry. 
 
 Hoenle's Cement, See Shellac. 
 
 India Rubber Cement. 
 
 88. Pieces of India rubber may be readily united by means 
 of the pasty mass obtained by acting upon pure rubber by its 
 appropriate solvents. These are: Sulphuric ether, coal-tar 
 naphtha, bisulphide of carbon, caoutchoucin, and oil of tur- 
 pentine. But as it is difficult to dissolve rubber, satisfactorily 
 on the small scale, and as the cement may be bought ready 
 made at a cheap rate, it is hardly worth while to enlarge upon 
 its preparation. Those who wish to try it will probably suc- 
 ceed best by cutting pure rubber (not that which has been 
 vulcanized) into very thin slices, boiling it in water so as to 
 
40 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 soften and expand it, and then digesting it in hot coal-tar 
 naphtha, or oil of turpentine. Several days are required to 
 effect the solution. 
 
 When this cement is used for uniting pieces of rubber, the 
 surfaces which are to be joined must be fresh; the surfaces 
 should therefore be either pared with a knife or rasped with a 
 file. They may then be coaled with the cement, pressed firmly 
 together, and exposed to a gentle heat for a few day3. 
 
 89. For mending India rubber shoes, boots and apparatus 
 where the regular rubber cement caunot be obtained, the fol- 
 lowing directions have been given: Cut 2 pounds caoutchouc 
 into thin, small slices; put them in a vessel of tinned sheet- 
 iron and pour over 12 to 14 pounds of sulphide of carbon. 
 For the promotion of solution, place the vessel in another 
 containing water previously heated up to about 86° Fahr. 
 The solution will take place promptly but the fluid will 
 thicken very soon, and thus render the application dif- 
 ficult, if not impossible. In order to prevent this thicken- 
 ing, a solution of caoutchouc and resin in spirits of turpentine 
 must be added to the solution of caoutchouc in sulphide ot 
 carbon, and in such quantity that the mixture obtains the con- 
 sistency of a thin paste. The solution of caoutchouc and 
 resin in spirit of turpentine should be prepared as follows: Gut 
 1 pound of caoutchouc into thin, small slices; heat in a suitable 
 vessel over a moderate coal fire, until the caoutchouc becomes 
 fluid; then add \ pound powdered resin and melt both materials 
 at a moderate heat. When these materials are perfectly fluid, 
 then gradually add 3 or 4 pounds spirit of turpentine in small 
 portions, and stir well. By the addition of the last solution, 
 the rapid thickening and hardening of the compound will be 
 prevented, and a mixture obtained which fully answers the pur- 
 pose of glueing together rubber surfaces, etc. 
 
 90. It is said that a good cement that will render India rub- 
 ber in any form adherent to glass or metal, may be made as 
 follows: Some shellac is pulverized, and then softened in ten 
 times its weight of strong ammonia, whereby a transparent 
 mass is obtained, which becomes fluid after keeping some little 
 time, without the use of hot water. In three or four weeks the 
 mixture is perfectly liquid, and, when applied, it will be found 
 to soften the rubber. The rubber hardens as soon as the am- 
 monia has evaporated again, and thus becomes impervious 
 both to gas and to liquids. For cementing the rubber sheet, 
 or the material in any shape, to metal, glass, and other such 
 surfaces, the cement is strongly recommended. 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 41 
 
 Iron Cement. 
 
 91. Iron filings or borings when mixed with sulphur, sal 
 ammoniac, etc., expand and form a compact mass which 
 makes a very firm steam-tight joint if properly applied. Con- 
 cerning this cement, Dr. Ure says: "The iron rust cement is 
 made of from 50 to 100 parts of iron borings, pounded and 
 sifted, mixed with one part of sal-ammoniac, and when it is to 
 be applied, moistened with as much water as will give it a 
 pasty consistence. Formerly, flowers of sulphur were used, 
 and much more sal-ammoniac in making this cement, but with 
 decided disadvantage, as the union is effected by oxidizment, 
 and the consequent expansion and solidification of the iron 
 powder and any heterogeneous matter obstructs the effect. 
 The best proportion of sal-ammoniac is, I believe, 1 per cent, 
 of the iron borings." 
 
 92. Mix 4 parts of fine borings or filings of iron, 2 parts of 
 potter's clay, and 1 part of powdered potsherds, and make 
 them into a paste with salt and water. When this cement is 
 allowed to concrete slowly on iron joints, it becomes very 
 hard. 
 
 93. Iron Cement for Closing the Joints of Iron Pipes. — Take of 
 coarsely powdered iron borings, 5 pounds; powdered sal-am- 
 moniac, 2 oz. ; sulphur, 1 oz. ; and water sufficient to moisten it. 
 This composition hardens rapidly; but if time can be allowed 
 it sets more firmly without the sulphur. It must be used 
 as soon as mixed and rammed tightly into the joints. 
 
 94. Take sal-ammoniac, 2 oz. ; sublimed sulphur, 1 oz. ; cast- 
 iron filings or fine turnings, 1 lb. Mix in a mortar and keep 
 the powder dry. When it is to be used, mix it with twenty 
 times its weight of clean iron turnings, or filings, and grind the 
 whole in a mortar; then wet it with water until it becomes of 
 convenient consistence, when it is to be applied to the joint. 
 After a time it becomes as hard and strong as any part of the 
 metal. 
 
 95. The following is said to form a very hard cement: Take 
 a few spoonfuls of iron filings, and oxide of iron in the form of 
 black scales which fall from red-hot bars of iron in blacksmith's 
 shops: crush them fine with a hammer, mingle with the powder 
 an equal bulk of the best Portland cement, and render the mass 
 plastic by adding the white part of eggs, and work for a few 
 minutes, until the plastic material is about of the con- 
 sistence of soft putty. Only a small quantity should be pre- 
 pared at once, as it will set in a short time. 
 
 96. A correspondent of the English Mechanic says that 
 he has used the following recipe with the greatest sue- 
 
42 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 cess for the cementing of iron railing tops, iron gratings to 
 stoves, etc., and with such effect as to resist the blows of the 
 sledge hammer: — " Take equal parts of sulphur and white lead, 
 with about a sixth of borax, incorporate them so as to form one 
 homogeneous mass. When going to apply it, wet it with 
 strong sulphuric acid, and place a thin layer of it between the 
 two pieces of iron, which should then be pressed together. In 
 rive days it will be perfectly dry, all traces of the cement hav- 
 ing vanished, and the iron will have the appearance of having 
 been welded together." Careful consideration of this recipe 
 does not dispel from our mind all doubt in regard to its effici- 
 ency; but from the confident way in which it is put forward 
 it may be well to give it a trial. 
 
 Isinglass. 
 
 97. This is probably the purest form of gelatin or animal 
 glue, and it makes one of the strongest cements known. As a 
 cement, it may be treated like glue. Erom the fact that 
 it is made from the sounds of fishes, it is sometimes called 
 fish-glue. 
 
 Ivory, Cement for. 
 
 The American or Diamond cement unites pieces of ivory 
 with great firmness, but where a white cement, of nearly the 
 same color as ivory is required, the following modification will 
 be found useful. 
 
 98. Dissolve 1 part of isinglass and 2 parts of white glue in 
 30 parts of water; strain and evaporate to 6 parts, then add 
 1-30 part of gum mastic, dissolved in £ part of alcohol, and 
 add 1 part of zinc white. When required for use, warm and 
 shake well. The broken edges to be joined must also be 
 warmed. 
 
 Japanese Cement. 
 
 99. This is simply a paste made of fine rice flour, well boiled 
 and ground in a mortar. 
 
 Jeweller's Cement. 
 
 100. It sometimes happens that jewellers, in setting precious 
 stones, break off pieces by accident; in this case they unite the 
 parts so that the joint cannot be easily seen, with gum mastic, 
 the stone being previously made hot enough to melt it. By 
 the same medium cameos of white enamel or colored glass, are 
 often joined to a real stone as a ground, to produce the ap- 
 pearance of an onyx. Mastic is likewise used to cement false 
 backs or doublets to stones, to alter their hue. — (Ure). The 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 term Jeweller's Cement is also applied to Armenian Cement, 
 which see. 
 
 Kerosene Oil Lamps, Cement for, 
 
 101. The cement commonly used for fastening the tops on 
 kerosene lamps is plaster-of-Paris, which is porous, quickly 
 penetrated by the kerosene, and soon destroyed. Another 
 cement which has not this defect is made by boiling three 
 parts of resin, and one of caustic soda in five of water. This 
 composition forms a soap, which, when mixed with half its 
 weight of plaster-of-Paris, sets firmly in about three-quarters of 
 an hour. It is said to be of great adhesive power, not per- 
 meable to kerosene, a low conductor of heat, and but super- 
 ficially attacked by hot water. 
 
 Labels, Cement for, 
 
 102. The usual adhesive coating for " gum tickets," is the 
 cheaper varieties of gum Arabic dissolved in water, applied 
 with a brush and dried. 
 
 103. Mix dextrine with water, and add a drop or two of 
 glycerine. 
 
 104. Labels that are exposed to acid fumes or damp, may be 
 attached with any good paste, and when dry, coated with copal 
 varnish. If neatly done the appearance is very good, and 
 moisture and acids have no action on them. 
 
 105. For attaching labels to tin and other bright metallic 
 surfaces, first rub the surface with a mixture of muriatic 
 acid and alcohol; then apply the label with a very thin 
 coating of the paste, and it will adhere almost as well as on 
 glass. 
 
 106. To make cement for attaching labels to metals, take ten 
 parts tragacanth mucilage, ten parts of honey, and one part 
 flour. The flour appears to hasten the drying, and renders 
 it less susceptible to damp. 
 
 107. Another cement that will resist the damp still better, 
 but will not adhere if the surface is greasy, is made by boiling 
 together two parts shellac, one part borax, and sixteen parts 
 water. 
 
 108. Flour paste to which a certain proportion of nitric acid 
 has been added, and heat applied, makes a lasting cement, but 
 the acid often acts upon the metals. The acid converts some 
 of the starch into dextrine. 
 
 109. Dissolve two drachms of isinglass in four ounces of 
 distilled vinegar; add as much gum Arabic as will give it the 
 required consistency. This mucilage keeps very well, but is 
 apt to become thinner, when a little more gum may be added. 
 
44 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 110. Dissolve isinglass in vinegar to a pretty thick consis- 
 tence when warm. This congeals on cooling, and before it is 
 used should be gently warmed. 
 
 .111. A capital adhesive liquid for sticking tickets on glass, 
 wood, or paper, is obtained as follows: About half an ounce of 
 fine glue which has been a .day before soaked in water, and 
 some candy sugar, with half an ounce of gum Arabic, and three 
 ounces of water, are placed in a small bowl over a spirit lamp, 
 and continually stirred till the composition thoroughly boils 
 and dissolves, and the mass becomes thin. When coated with 
 this cement and then dried; the tickets, when moistened with 
 the tongue, will stick with the greatest tenacity. 
 
 112. Dextrine, 2 parts; acetic acid, 1 part; water, 5 parts; 
 dissolve in a water-bath and add 1 part of alcohol. Forms an 
 excellent mucilage for stamps and labels that are to be kept 
 ready gummed. 
 
 113. It is said that for the labels of seltzer or soda water 
 bottles, the best paste is one made of good rye flour and glue 
 to which linseed oil varnish and turpentine have been added in 
 the proportion of half an ounce of each to the pound. The 
 paste must be made quite hot, and the oil incorporated with it 
 by thorough heating. Labels attached by this cement do not 
 fall off in damp cellars. 
 
 Laboratory Cement, 
 
 114. Equal parts of pitch, resin and plaster-of-Paris united 
 by fusion. Used for lining casks for holding chloride of lime, 
 and for joining and coating the masonry of acid chambers, etc. 
 
 Lapland Glue. See Glue, Lapland. 
 
 Lead, Compounds of. 
 
 115. Simply pure white-lead ground in oil, and used very 
 thick, is an excellent cement for mending broken crockery 
 ware; but it takes a very long time to harden sufficiently. 
 The best plan is to place the mended object in some store- 
 room, and not to look after it for several weeks, or even months. 
 After that time it will be found so firmly united that, if ever 
 again broken, it will not part on the line of the former frac- 
 ture. It resists moisture and a heat not exceeding that of 
 boiling water. 
 
 116. Take white lead, ground in oil, a sufficient quantity. 
 Add dry red lead enough to make a stiff putty. Put the mass 
 in a mortar or on a block of iron or smooth stone, and pound 
 it till it becomes soft; continue to add red lead, and pound un- 
 til the mass will no longer become softer by pounding, nor 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 45 
 
 stick to the fingers. At this time it should be of sufficient 
 tenacity to stretch out three or four inches when pulled, without 
 parting. The more protracted the pounding, the softer, finer, 
 and more tenacious the cement becomes. Interpose this putty 
 between the flanges of steam-pipe joints, taking care to put 
 a thin grummet of packing or wicking around the diameter of 
 the bore, to keep the cement from squeezing through when the 
 flanges are screwed together. It is indestructible by steam or 
 water, and makes the best joint known to the engineer. 
 
 117. Mix two parts of finely powdered litharge with one 
 part of very fine sand, and one part of quicklime which has 
 been allowed to slake spontaneously by exposure to the air. 
 This mixture may be kept for any length of time without in- 
 juring. In using it a portion is mixed into paste with linseed 
 oil, or, still better, boiled linseed oil. In this state it must be 
 quickly applied, as it soon becomes hard. 
 
 Leather, Cement for. 
 
 118. One who has tried everything says, that after an experi- 
 ence of fifteen years he has found nothing to equal the follow- 
 ing: Common glue and isinglass, equal parts, soaked for 10 
 hours in just enough water to cover them. Bring gradually to 
 a boiling heat and add pure tannin until the whole becomes 
 ropy, or appears like the white of eggs. Buff off the sur- 
 faces to be joined, apply this cement warm, and clamp 
 firmly. 
 
 119. Mix ten parts of sulphide of carbon with one of oil of 
 turpentine, and then add enough gutta percha to make a tough 
 thickly-flowing liquid. One essential pre-requisite to a thor- 
 ough union of the parts consists in freedom of the surfaces to 
 be joined from grease. This may be attained by laying a cloth 
 upon them and applying a hot iron for a time. The cement is 
 then applied to both pieces, the surfaces brought in contact, 
 and pressure applied until the joint is dry. 
 
 120. Another leather cement is made o'f gutta percha dis- 
 solved in bisulphide of carbon, the mixture being about the 
 thickness of syrup; the parts to be cemented must be well 
 coated, so as to fill the pores of the leather; then heat the 
 cement and join the ends, hammering the parts until the 
 cement is cold. 
 
 121. To cement leather to metal: "Wash the metal with hot 
 gelatine; steep the leather in an infusion of nut galls (hot) and 
 bring the two together. 
 
 Letter Fixing Cement. See Metal, Cements for. 
 
46 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 London Cement. 
 
 Cheese and quicklime. For method of preparation, see 
 Casein Cement, No. 36. 
 
 Lut d> Ane. See No. 36. 
 
 Mahogany Cement. 
 
 The following cements are used to stop holes and cracks in 
 mahogany furniture : 
 
 122. Beeswax, 4 oz. ; melt and add Indian red, 1 oz. ; and 
 enough yellow ochre to produce the required tint. 
 
 123. Shellac melted and colored as above, very hard. 
 
 Maissiat's Cement. See Bottte Cement 
 Marble, Cement for. 
 
 124. Keene's Marble Cement. — Baked gypsum or plaster-of- 
 Paris, steeped in a saturated solution of alum, and then re-cal- 
 cined and reduced to powder. For use it is mixed up with water 
 as ordinary plaster-of-Paris. This preparation forms a stucco, 
 rather than a cement. It take a high polish, and when colored is 
 very beautiful, but does not unite pieces as strongly as num- 
 ber 
 
 125. An excellent cement for mending marble or any kind of 
 stone, is made by mixing 20 parts of litharge and 1 part of 
 freshly burned lime in fine dry powder. This is made into a 
 putty by linseed oil. It sets in a few hours, having the ap- 
 pearance of light stone. 
 
 126. Resin, 8 parts; wax, 1 part; plaster-of-Paris, 4 parts; 
 mix by fusion. The pieces to be joined must be made hot. 
 
 Marine Glue. 
 
 Marine glue is probably the strongest cement known, and 
 •when w T ell made and properly applied it is capable of uniting 
 wood, metal, glass, leather, etc., with a strength and durability 
 that is astonishing. "We have in our possession jDieces of appar- 
 atus, the parts of which are united with this cement, and which 
 we know to have been in existence over forty years, and which 
 are as firm to-day as ever. 
 
 Marine glue is a combination of shellac and caoutchouc in 
 proportions which vary according to the purposes for which 
 the cement is to be used. Some is very hard, others quite 
 soft. The degree of softness is also regulated by the proportion 
 of naphtha used for dissolving the caoutchouc and shellac. It 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 47 
 
 is difficult to prepare it on the small scale, and is not usually 
 found on sale in this country. „ The following is the formula 
 for the ordinary variety : 
 
 127. India rubber (cut small), 1 part; coal tar naphtha, 12 
 parts; digest in a covered vessel with heat and agitation, and 
 when the solution is complete, add of powdered shellac, 20 
 parts. Continue the heat and stirring until perfect liquefaction 
 has taken place, and pour the fused mass, whilst still hot, on 
 slabs of polished metal or stone so as to form thin sheets. 
 When used it is to be heated to its melting point, (248° to 250° 
 Fahr.), in an iron vessel and applied in the liquid state with 
 a brush. Great care and considerable experience is necessary 
 to enable any one to use this cement. If the solid cement be 
 heated but a very few degrees above its melting point, it 
 crumbles and becomes useless. We have succeeded by cutting 
 it in shreds, placing these between the parts to be joined and 
 heating the whole until the glue could be pressed into uniform 
 contact with the entire surfaces. Sometimes it is convenient 
 to use a form of the glue which is more fluid, from containing 
 more naphtha. The following formulae answers in such cases, 
 but are not as strong as the ordinary marine glue. 
 
 128. Dissolve gum shellac three parts, and caoutchouc one 
 part, in separate vessels, in ether free from alcohol, applying a 
 gentle heat. When thoroughly dissolved, mix the two solu- 
 tions. Use rectified sulphuric ether that has been washed to 
 remove alcohol and acidity, and India rubber that has not been 
 vulcanized. When the caoutchouc has become well softened by 
 the ether, break it up into small pieces and stir w r ell until a 
 homogeneous soft mass is obtained. It will be as well to cut the 
 rubber into small pieces before pouring the ether on them, but 
 the mass must be frequently and well stirred. Pour the solu- 
 tion of shellac into [that of the rubber, and incorporate them 
 thoroughly by stirring. 
 
 This is a modification of the famous marine glue, and resists 
 the action of water, both hot and cold, and most of the acids 
 and alkalies. If the glue be thinned by the admixture of 
 ether, and applied as a varnish to leather, along the seams 
 where it is sewed together, it renders the joint or seam water- 
 tight, and almost impossible to separate. • 
 
 129. The following recipe, taken from JVew Remedies, is said 
 to yield a strong cement: 10 parts of caoutchouc or India rub- 
 ber, are dissolved in 120 parts of benzine or petroleum (?) 
 naphtha with the aid of a gentle heat. When the solution is 
 complete, which sometimes requires 10 to 14 days, 20 parts of 
 asphalt are melted in an iron vessel^ ajad the caoutchouc solu- * 
 
48 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 tion is poured in very slowly, in a fine stream, and under con- 
 tinued heating, until the mass has become homogeneous, and 
 nearly all of the solvent has Been driven off. It is then poured 
 out and cast into greased tin moulds. It forms dark-brown or 
 black cakes, which are very hard to break. This cement re- 
 quires considerable heat to melt it; and to prevent it from be- 
 ing burnt, it is best to heat a capsule containing a piece of it 
 first on a water-bath, until the cake softens and begins to be 
 liquid. It is then carefully wiped dry, and heated over a 
 naked flame, under constant stirring, up to about 300° F. The 
 edges of the article to be mended should, if possible, also be 
 heated to at least 212° F., so as to permit the cement to be ap- 
 plied at leisure and with care. The thinner the cement is ap- 
 plied, the better it binds. 
 
 Mastich Cliaud. 
 
 This term is applied by the French to those resinous cements 
 which are liquid when hot, and which become more or less 
 solid by cooling. Of these, common sealing-wax is the most 
 useful. 
 
 Meerschaum, Cement for. 
 
 The best cement for joining pieces of meerschaum, is Egg 
 
 Cement 9 which see. 
 
 Metal, To Cement to Glass, Stone, etc. 
 
 For attaching metal plates, such as letters, etc., to flat sheets 
 of glass the f ollowing may be used. 
 
 130. Copal varnish, 15; drying oil, 5; turpentine, 3. Melt in 
 a water-bath and add 10 parts slaked lime. 
 
 131. Copal varnish, 15 parts; boiled linseed oil, 5; "Venice 
 turpentine, 5; glue melted in the smallest possible quantity of 
 water, 5 parts. Melt together and add 10 parts of powdered 
 quicklime. 
 
 132. Carpenter's glue, 4 j3arts; Venice turpentine 1 part. 
 Mucilage. See Gum Arabic. 
 
 Milk Cement. 
 
 133. This cement is not so generally known as it ought to 
 be. It is the simplest and best domestic cement for repairing 
 china and crockery. The process consists simply in tying 
 the parts firmly together and boiling them in skim milk. The 
 tying together of the pieces of a round cup or bowl is not a 
 very simple matter, but it can be done by going the right way 
 to work. First, arrange the parts in their proper positions, 
 and, if a bowl, sejb it mouth down, as the pieces will keep their 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 49 
 
 arrangement best in this position. Then wind stout tape round 
 the article, so as to hold the pieces together. Tape is far better 
 than twine, and some pieces should be kept for this purpose. 
 It is easy to draw the tape tight until we come to tie the ends, 
 and then special devices must be used. "When sufficient tape 
 has been wound round the article, let one person hold it from 
 slipping, by pressing a finger firmly on each end, and then let 
 another person tie the ends in a firm knot, but leaving the tape 
 so loose from the article that a pencil or stout skewer may be 
 passed under it. Then by twisting the skewer the tape is 
 tightened in the same way that a surgeon compresses an artery 
 with his tourniquet, and by passing the fingers over the tape, 
 and smoothing it forward toward the ends, all the pieces may 
 be pressed together with a firmness that cannot be obtained in 
 any other way. 
 
 The article should now be placed in a pan of cold milk 
 (skim-milk is the best and cheapest), which should be gradually 
 heated to the boiling point, and kept at this temperature for 
 some time — say half an hour to an hour — care being taken not 
 to allow it to burn. The articles are allowed to cool in the 
 milk, and when taken out are wiped dry and allowed to stand 
 for a day or two until the cement has become quite hard. 
 They may then be washed off with warm water, and the parts 
 will be found to be strongly cemented together. The same 
 milk may be used again, but not with such good effect. 
 Generally, however, it is possible to pack quite a number of 
 articles in the pan in the first place, especially if they can be 
 nested, or placed one within the other. 
 
 Opticians' Cement. 
 
 The cements obtained from the following formulae, are used 
 by opticians for fixing lenses, prisms, etc., to chucks and hold- 
 ers, while they are being ground. 
 
 134. Pitch, 5 parts; wood ashes 1 part; tallow, 1 part, less or 
 more, according to the temperature of the season. 
 
 135. Shellac softened with rectified spirit or wood naphtha. 
 
 136. Beeswax, 1 oz. : resin, 15 oz. ; melt and add 5 oz. of 
 whiting previously heated red hot and still warm. 
 
 137. Eesin. 1 lb. ; melt and add dry and warm plaster 4 oz. 
 This forms a very strong cement for rough purposes. 
 
 Parabolic Cement. 
 
 138. This is a variety of casein or cheese cement, prepared 
 as follows: Curdle skim-milk with rennet or vinegar, press out 
 the whey, and dry the curd by a very gentle heat, but as quickly 
 as possible. When quite dry grind it in a pepper or coffee 
 
50 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 mill, and triturate it in a mortar until reduced to a very fine 
 powder. Mix ten parts by weight of this powder with 
 one part of quicklime, also in very fine powder, and to every 
 ounce of the mixture add 5 or 6 grains of camphor. Triturate 
 the whole well together and keep in phials well corked. 
 
 Used to unite glass, earthenware, etc., which it does very 
 strongly. It is made into a paste with a little water as wanted, 
 and applied immediately. See Casein Cement. 
 
 Parian Cement. 
 
 139. Same as Keene's marble cement, (see Marble), substi- 
 tuting a solution of borax for a solution of alum. 
 
 Paris Cement. 
 
 140. This cement is used for mending shells and other speci- 
 mens of natural history. It is composed of gum Arabic, 5; 
 sugar candy, 2. White lead, enough to color. 
 
 Paste. 
 
 Next to glue, paste is the most extensively used, and the most 
 valuable cement that we have. For ordinary purposes it 
 consists simply of flour, made into a thin cream with water and 
 boiled. It then forms a stiffish mass which may be diluted 
 with water so as to bring it to any required condition of thick- 
 ness. There are two distinct elements in flour, both of which 
 are valuable, one is starch, and the other is gluten. The 
 cheaper kinds of flour, and especially rye flour, are rich in 
 gluten while wheat flour is rich in starch. In the latter case 
 it is sometimes of advantage to add a little common glue to 
 the paste. 
 
 For ordinary purposes no additions are necessary, but where 
 paste is to be kept for a long time, various ingredients may 
 be added, to prevent souring and moulding. A few cloves 
 form, perhaps, the best preservative for small quantities. 
 On the larger scale carbolic acid may be used. If it wera 
 not for the expense, salicylic acid would form a good pre- 
 servative. 
 
 According to the statement of Herr P. Lung, souring and 
 moulding may be entirely prevented by the addition and 
 thorough mixture with the freshly-prepared paste of a few 
 grains of salicylic acid. When thus treated, a paste may be 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 51 
 
 kept for weeks in a heated room without losing its freshness, 
 and even when it has, by long standing, become dry and 
 tough, may be at once rendered fluid and serviceable by treat- 
 ment with hot water. The addition of the acid does not, ac- 
 cording to this author, affect the stickiness of the paste to any 
 sensible degree. 
 
 When it is desired to prevent the attacks of insects, either 
 before or after use, the addition of corrosive sublimate is a 
 sure preservative, but as this substance is a powerful poison, 
 great care must be exercised when it is employed. The fol- 
 lowing formulsB give good results. 
 
 141. Starch Paste. — This is best prepared by triturating the 
 starch with cold water in a mortar until no lumps remain, and 
 not too thick a mass is formed, and pouring into this boiling 
 water very slowly, with rapid stirring, until the paste begins to 
 form, as indicated by the increase of transparency, and then 
 rapidly adding the rest of the boiling water necessary for the 
 paste. Boiling the paste is very injurious, rendering it less ad- 
 hesive, and liable to peel off. Rye flour affords a more adhesive 
 paste than starch, but of a gray color. The addition of a little 
 alum to the water with which paste is prepared renders it more 
 permanent, and the use of boiling lime water instead of pure 
 water adds to its adhesiveness. An aqueous extract of decom- 
 posed gluten, however, affords the best paste with starch. By 
 incorporating with the paste a quantity of turpentine, equal 
 in weight to half of the starch employed, and stirring well 
 while the paste is still hot, it will be rendered more imper- 
 vious to moisture, and at the same time more adhesive. 
 
 142. Com Starch Paste. — Corn starch makes a good paste for 
 scrap-books. Dissolve a small quantity in cold water, then 
 cook it thoroughly. Be careful and not get it too thick. 
 When cold it should be thin enough to apply with a brush. 
 It is not so liable to mold and stain the paper as paste made 
 from other kinds of starch. 
 
 143. Paste for Mounting Photographs. — Mix thoroughly 630 
 grains of the finest Bermuda arrowroot with 375 grains of cold 
 water in a capsule, with a spoon or brush; then add 1(H ounces 
 of water and 60 grains of gelatin in fine shreds. Boil, with 
 stirring, for five minutes, or until the liquid becomes clear, 
 and when cold stir in well 375 grains of alcohol, and five or six 
 drops of pure carbolic acid. Keep in well-closed vessels, and 
 before using it, work up a portion with a brush in a dish. 
 
 144. Four parts, by weight, of glue are allowed to soften 
 
52 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 in 15 parts of cold water for some hours, and then moder- 
 ately heated till the solution becomes quite clear. 65 parts of 
 boiling water are now added with stirring. In another vessel 
 30 parts of starch paste are stirred up with 20 parts of cold 
 water, so that a thin milky fluid is obtained without lumps. 
 Into this the boiling glue solution is poured, with constant 
 stirring, and the whole is kept at the boiling temperature. 
 After cooling, 10 drops of carbolic acid are added to the 
 paste. This paste is of extraordinary adhesive power, and 
 may be used for leather, paper, or cardboard with great suc- 
 cess. It must be preserved in closed bottles to prevent 
 evaporation of the water, and will, in this way, keep good for 
 years. 
 
 145. Fine wheat starch, 1 oz. ; beat into a paste with cold 
 water; best glue, 4 oz. Soak the glue, and when soft, boil 
 it and add the starch paste, stirring well. Boil the whole until 
 it is quite thick, and set aside to cool. It keeps well, and 
 when required for use may be instantly dissolved in a little 
 warm water. 
 
 146. Two ounces of starch, one ounce of white glue, half an 
 ounce of acetic acid, a few drops of oil of cloves. Dissolve the 
 glue in cold water and then boil. Mix the starch with cold 
 water, and pour into the glue while boiling. 
 
 147. Rice flour makes an excellent paste for fine paper 
 work. 
 
 148. Gum tragacanth and water make an ever ready paste. 
 A few drops of any kind of acid should be added to the 
 water before putting in the gum, to prevent fermentation. 
 This paste will not give that semi-transparent look to thin 
 paper, that gum Arabic sometimes gives, when used for 
 mucilage. 
 
 Peasley Cement. 
 
 149. Many of our readers have seen a load of hay drawn by 
 a span of horses, the whole got up for the purpose of making an 
 exhibit and sale of the celebrated Peasley cement. "It will 
 cement my leather traces if cut in two, so that they will be as 
 strong as ever," the vender is wont to cry. A recipe for this 
 cement was published in a well-known technological journal 
 about the time of the first appearance of the cement. We 
 doubt the accuracy of the formulae, however, and believe that 
 the Pease! ey cement was merely a modification of the well- 
 known Armenian cement, which see. The following is the 
 recipe alluded to: Prepare a solution of two hundred parts of 
 white glue in water; another one of fifty parts of isinglass, 
 three of gum Arabic, and three of tragacanth; and finally, an- 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 53 
 
 other of one part of shellac in alcohol. Then pour these three 
 solutions together, mix them with twenty-four parts of white 
 lead, and add twelve parts of the best glycerine, and two hundred 
 parts of alcohol. The tnastic thus obtained should be imme- 
 mediately \mt up in bottles and well corked. 
 
 Persian Cement. See Armenian Cement, No. 4. 
 
 Plumbers' Cement. 
 
 150. Black resin, 1 part; brick dust, 2 parts. The brick dust 
 should be finely powdered, thoroughly dried and added to the 
 resin when the latter is in a melted state. 
 
 Porcelain Cement. 
 
 151. Add plaster-of- Paris to a strong solution of alum till the 
 mixture is of the consistency of cream. It sets readily, and 
 is said to unite glass, metal, porcelain, etc., quite firmly. It 
 is probably suited for cases in which large rather than small 
 surfaces are to be united. 
 
 Rubber Cement. See India Rubber, 
 
 Seal Engravers' Cement. 
 
 Used for fixing seals, etc., while being engraved. See Op- 
 ticians' Cement and Turners' Cement. 
 
 Shellac. 
 
 152. Shellac, made up into sticks of the size of a lead pencil, 
 is frequently sold as a cement which will resist water, acids, 
 oils, etc., and it answers very well. Sometimes it is mixed 
 with very fine powders either to give it body, or to color it. 
 Zinc white or plaster-of-Paris may be used to make it white; 
 ivory black, for black ; brick dust, red ochre and vermillion for 
 different shades of red. 
 
 The objects to be cemented together are first warmed till they 
 melt the shellac brought in contact with them. This is very 
 good to cement broken glass, porcelain, etc., especially as the 
 objects are again ready for use immediately when cold; but 
 it is not adapted for flexible objects, as it cracks. It will not 
 withstand heat or alcohol, which softens the shellac. 
 
 Shellac is soluble in alcohol, when it forms what is known 
 as Chinese glue. It is also soluble in wood naphtha. Con- 
 trary to published statements to that effect, (see Dick's " Cyclo- 
 paedia of Eecipes," No. 2156) shellac does not form as strong 
 a cement when in the state of solution as when melted by 
 heat. ^ 
 
 Instead of using aicohol or benzine, a watery solution of 
 borax may be used for dissolving shellac. Take of borax, 100 
 
54 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 parts; rain (or distilled) water, 2,250 parts, heat to boiling, and 
 while stirring, gradually add powdered shellac, 300 parts. 
 When dissolved, strain through muslin and preserve. This 
 forms a water-proof varnish. Paper soaked with this is water- 
 proof and resembles parchment. 
 
 Shellac makes the best black cement for articles of jet. It is 
 made black by smoking it in the flame of a lamp or candle. 
 
 153. Hoenle's Cement. — Shellac, 2 parts; Venice turpentine, 1 
 part; fuse together and form into sticks. 
 
 154. It is sometimes necessary to pulverize shellac, and any 
 one who has tried to pound up shellac in a mortar knows that 
 the attempt is more favorable to perspiration and profanity 
 then to the pulverization of the slippery stuff. A correspondent 
 of the Druggists' Circular has devised the following method: 
 " Enclose the shellac in a strong, closely- woven piece of cloth, 
 at first compressing the folds rather tightly, but gradually re- 
 laxing them. Then, after placing the bunch, which must be 
 held in position with the hand, upon a solid block or smooth 
 counter, the strokes of a heavy iron pestle are applied, gently at 
 first, while the bunch is kept moving from side to side, so as to 
 expose every part to the strokes of the pestel. After the large, 
 sharp pieces are broken, the strokes are increased in velocity 
 and power, with wonderful effect upon the resin, and but little 
 injury to the cloth. In this way shellac may be reduced to a 
 granular form sufficiently fine for pyrotechnic purposes at very 
 short notice, and to an almost impalpable powder in a com- 
 paratively short space of time. To produce this result, how- 
 ever, it is necessary to wield the pestle forcibly, and then from 
 time to time separate the finer particles from the coarser by 
 sifting." 
 
 Schio-liao. See Chinese Cement 
 
 Singer's Cement. See Cap Cement » 
 Soft Cement. See Chemical Cement 
 Soluble Glass Cements. 
 
 155. When finely-pulverized chalk is stirred into a solution 
 of soluble glass of 30° Baume until the mixture is fine and 
 plastic, a cement is obtained which will harden in between six 
 and eight hours, possessing an extraordinary durability, and 
 alike applicable for domestic and industrial purposes. It may 
 be used for uniting stone, brick, etc., and for filling up cracks. 
 In short, it seems to be ajDplicable to about the same purposes 
 for which plaster-of-Paris is used, but it is much harder and 
 stronger. If for part of the chalk some coloring matter be 
 substituted, differently colored cements of the same general 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 55 
 
 character are obtained. The following materials give good 
 results : 
 
 156. Finely-pulverized or levigated stibnite (grey antimony, 
 or black sulphide of antimony) will produce a dark cement, 
 which, after burnishing with an agate, will present a metallic 
 appearance. 
 
 156. Pulverized cast iron, a grey cement. 
 
 158. Zinc dust (so-called zinc grey), an exceedingly hard 
 grey cement, which, after burnishing, will exhibit the white 
 and brilliant appearance of metallic zinc. This cement may 
 be employed with advantage in mending ornaments and vessels 
 of zinc, sticking alike well to metals, stone, and wood. 
 
 159. Carbonate of copper, a bright green cement. 
 
 160. Sesquioxide of chromium, a dark green cement. 
 
 161. Thenard's blue (cobalt blue), a blue cement. 
 
 162. Minium, an orange-colored cement. 
 
 163. Vermillion, a splendid red cement. 
 
 164. Carmine red, a violet cement. 
 
 Sorel's Cement. 
 
 There are two different cements which go by the name of 
 Sorel's Cement; namely, the * 4 Oxy chloride of Zinc Ce- 
 ment," and the "Magnesia Cement." 
 
 165. Oxy chloride of Zinc Cement. — A solution of chloride of 
 zinc is prepared by dissolving zinc in hydrochloric acid, so that 
 some metallic zinc always remains undissolved. The solution 
 is filtered and concentrated until it has the spec. grav. 1*800. 
 
 Commercial oxide of zinc is mixed with water containing 
 2 per cent, of nitric acid to a stiff paste, which, after being 
 dried, is heated in crucibles to a white heat, after which it is 
 reduced to an impalpable powder. The object of this baking 
 is to reduce the oxide to as small a bulk as possible, in which 
 condition it has more binding power. The powder must be 
 kept from contact with the air, to prevent access of moisture 
 and carbonic acid gas. 
 
 On bringing together the oxide and solution of chloride of 
 zinc, the whole solidifies in a few minutes to a very hard mass. 
 If it is desired to retard the hardening, the zinc solution 
 may be diluted to about 1*500-1 *600 spec, gr., and the oxide 
 of zinc may be mixed with 2 to 3 per cent, of borax or chloride 
 of ammonium. 
 
 166. Magnesia Cement. — This was originally prepared by 
 Sorel, of Paris, from magnesite (chiefly native carbonate of 
 magnesium), by making a paste with powdered magnesite, 
 10 to 20 per cent, of hydrochloric acid, and a sufficient quantity 
 
56 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 of water, forming the mass into bricks, then burning them at 
 a strong heat, and finally grinding them. This yields a very 
 hard, bright-colored cement, which bears large dilution with 
 sand, but is not entirely water-proof. 
 
 Since the immense saline deposits at Stassfurt have been 
 worked, this cement is prepared from kieserite (a native hy- 
 drated sulphate of magnesium), many thousand tons of which 
 are annually obtained. Kieserite is mixed with calcium hy- 
 drate, in the proportion of two molecules of the former to one 
 of the latter, with addition of water; the mass is formed into 
 bricks or cakes, dried, and " burnt," and powdered. The 
 powdered mass when moistened solidities to a marble-like mass, 
 which does not, however, permanently resist moisture, and is 
 best used only in the interior of buildings. 
 
 167. The following composition forms an excellent material 
 for moulding or for uniting stone, etc. Mix commercial zinc 
 white with \ its bulk of fine sand, adding a solution of chloride 
 of zinc of 1 *26 specific gravity, and rub the whole thoroughly 
 together in a mortar. The mixture must be applied at once, 
 as it hardens very quickly. 
 
 Steam Cements. 
 
 The cements usually employed for making steam tight joints 
 are composed of white lead and litharge in various proportions. 
 
 See Lead, Compounds of. 
 
 168. A steam-tight cement which is said to be superior to 
 the ordinary white and red lead cement, is obtained by mixing 
 six parts of finely pulverized plumbago, three parts of slaked 
 lime, eight parts of sulphate of barytes, and seven parts of 
 boiled linseed oil. These ingredients must be intimately 
 mixed. 
 
 Tragacanth. See Gum Tragacanth. 
 Transparent Cement. See Canada Balsam. 
 Turkish Cement. See Armenian Cement, No. 4. 
 Turners' Cement. 
 
 169. Melt 1 lb. of resin in a pan over the fire, and when 
 melted, add a £ of a lb. of pitch. While these are boiling add 
 brick dust until, by dropping a little on a cold stone, you think 
 it hard enough. In winter it may be necessary to add a little 
 tallow. By means of this cement a piece of wood may be fastened 
 to the chuck, which will hold when cool; and when the work 
 is finished it may be removed by a smart stroke with the tool 
 
CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 57 
 
 Any traces of the cement may be removed from the work by 
 means of benzine. 
 
 170. The heat necessary to melt the ordinary turners' cement 
 is liable to warp thin plates of brass, and in some cases, as for 
 example circles of mathematical instruments that require to be 
 graduated, this is very objectionable. In such cases plaster-of- 
 Paris is the best cement to use. 
 
 Universal Cement. See Parabolic Cement. 
 
 Yarley's Cement. See Cap Cement 
 
 Waterproof Cement. 
 
 171. Glue to which bichromate of potash has been added 
 and which has afterwards been exposed to strong sunlight, be- 
 comes insoluble. The proportions are not very well ascertained, 
 but about one part of the bichromate, dissolved in water, and 
 added to a solution of six parts of solid glue, answers very 
 well. 
 
 The following is a valuable cement which, if properly ap- 
 plied, will be insoluble even in boiling water: Gelatin, 5 parts; 
 soluble acid chromate of lime, 1 part. Cover the broken edges 
 with this, press lightly together, and expose to the sunlight; 
 the effect of the latter being to render the compound in- 
 soluble. 
 
 173. It is said by the British Journal of Photogi*ap7iy, that 
 the following recipe gives excellent results: Take alcohol, 1 
 pint; sandarac, 1 ounce; mastic 1 ounce; common white turpen- 
 tine, 1 ounce; glue and isinglass, sufficient; water, sufficient. 
 Dissolve the two resins — sandarac and mastic — in the spirit, and 
 and then add the turpentine to the solution. Make some very 
 strong glue, and add to it a good pinch of isinglass. Now heat 
 the alcoholic varnish until the liquid begins to boil, then very 
 slowly stir in the warm glue. The amount of the liquid glue 
 to be added is determined by noting the point at which, after 
 thorough mixture, a magma or thin paste is formed, capable of 
 being easily strained through cloth. When required for use, 
 the strained mixture is to be warmed, and applied like* ordin- 
 ary glue to the articles to be united. A strong junction is 
 effected, which is not destroyed by cold water, and only after 
 a comparatively considerable time by hot water or ordinary 
 saline solutions. 
 
 174. Glue, one part; skimmed milk, eight parts. Melt and 
 evaporate in a water-bath to the consistence of strong glue. 
 This cement cannot be called waterproof, but it resists the 
 action of water better than common glue. 
 
 175. Melt common glue with as little water as possible, 
 
58 
 
 CEMENTS AND GLUE. 
 
 add l-8th of boiled linseed oil, dropping it gently into the glue, 
 which is to be stirred all the time. 
 
 Wollaston's White Cement. 
 
 176. This is a very valuable cement for large objects, such 
 as shells, fossils, etc: Beeswax, 1 oz. ; resin, 4 oz. ; powdered 
 plaster-of-Paris, 5 oz. Melt together. To use, warm the 
 edges of the specimen and use the cement warm. 
 
 Zeiodelite. 
 
 177. This cement consists of 19 parts of sulphur, and 42 
 parts of powdered glass or earthenware, mixed thoroughly to- 
 gether by heating the sulphur. It may be used instead of 
 hydraulic cement for uniting stones or bricks, and for cement- 
 ing iron rods into holes cut in stone. 
 
CATALOGUE 
 
 OF 
 
 Books and Periodicals 
 
 PUBLISHED AND FOE SALE BY 
 
 THE INDUSTRIAL PUBLICATION COMPANY, 
 
 14 Dey Street, New York. 
 
 g^Any of these Books may be obtained from any Bookseller 
 or Newsdealer, or will be sent Free by mail to any part of the 
 United States or Canada ON RECEIPT OF PRICE. 
 
 Tile Amateur's Handbook of Practical Information, 
 
 For the Workshop and the Laboratory. Second Edition. 
 Greatly Enlarged. Neatly Bound - - 15 cents. 
 
 This is a handy little book, containing just the information needed 
 by Amateurs in the Workshop and Laboratory. Directions for 
 making Alloys, Fusible Metals, Cements, Glues, etc. ; and for Solder* 
 ing, Brazing, Lacquering, Bronzing, Staining and Polishing Wood, 
 Tempering Tools, Cutting and Working Glass, Varnishing, Silvering, 
 Gilding, Preparing Skins, etc., etc. 
 
 The New Edition contains extended directions for preparing Polish- 
 ing Powders, Freezing Mixtures, Colored Lights for tableaux, Solu- 
 tions for rendering ladies' dresses incombustible, etc. There has also 
 been added a very large number of new and valuable receipts. 
 
 Rhymes of Science: Wise and Otherwise. 
 
 By O. W. Holmes, Bret Hart, Ingoldsby, Prof. Forbes, 
 Prof. J. W. McQ. Kankine, Hon. B. W. Baymond, and 
 others. 
 
 With Illustrations. Cloth, Gilt Title. - 60 cents 
 
The Microscopisfs Annual for 1879. 
 
 Contains List of all the Microscopical Societies in the 
 country, with names of officers, days of meeting, etc. ; 
 etc. ; Alphabetical and Classified Lists of all the Manu- 
 facturers of Microscopes and Objectives, Dissecting Ap- 
 paratus, Microscopic Objects, Materials for Microscopists, 
 in Europe and America, etc., etc. ; Postal Kates, Eules 
 and Kegulations, prepared expressly for microscopists ; 
 Weights and Measures, with tables and rules for the con- 
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 Duties and Eegulations in regard to Instruments and 
 Books ; Value of the Moneys of all Countries in U. S. 
 Dollars ; Value of the Lines on Nobert's Test Plates ; 
 Table of Moller's Probe Platte, with the number of lines 
 to inch on the several diatoms, etc., etc. ; Eocal Value 
 of the Objectives of those makers who Number their 
 Objectives (Hartnack, Nachet, etc.) ; Eocal Value of the 
 Eye-pieces of different makers ; Magnifying Power of 
 Eye-pieces and Objectives, etc., etc. The whole form- 
 ing an indispensable companion for every working micro- 
 scopist. Limp Cloth, Gilt - - 25 cents. 
 
 The " Annual " for 1880 is in a forward state of preparation, and 
 will be uniform in size and price with that for 1879. 
 
 Microscope Objectives. 
 
 The Angular Aperture of Microscope Objectives. By 
 Dr. George E. Blackham. 8vo., Cloth. Eighteen full 
 page illustrations printed on extra fine paper. $1.25. 
 Sold only by Subscription. 
 This is the elaborate paper on Angular Aperture, read by Dr. 
 Blackham before the Microscopical Congress, held at Indianapolis. 
 
 Kutzing on Diatoms. — Nearly ready. 
 
 The Siliceous Shelled Bacillarise or Diatomacese; the 
 History of their Discovery and Classification ; their Dis- 
 tribution, Collection, and Life-History. By Friedrich 
 Traugott Kutzing. Translated from the German by Prof. 
 Hamilton L. Smith, of Geneva, N. Y. 12mo., Cloth, 
 Gilt, - - - - - 50 cents. 
 
Section Cutting. 
 
 A Practical Guide to the Preparation and Mounting oi 
 
 Sections for the Microscope ; Special Prominence being 
 
 given to the Subject of Animal Sections. By Sylvester 
 
 Marsh. Eeprinted from the London edition. With 
 
 Illustrations. 12mo., Cloth, Gilt Title. • 75 cents. 
 
 This is undoubtedly the most thorough treatise extant upon section 
 cutting in all its details. The American edition has been greatly 
 enlarged by valuable explanatory notes, and also by extended direc- 
 tions, illustrated with engravings, for selecting and sharpening 
 knives and razors. 
 
 A Book for Beginners with the Microscope. 
 
 Being an abridgment of " Practical Hints on the Selection 
 and Use of the Microscope.' ' By JohnPhin. Fully illus- 
 trated, and neatly and strongly bound in boards. 30 cts. 
 This book was prepared for the use of those who, having no know- 
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 managing the instrument and preparing objects. 
 
 How to Use the Microscope. 
 
 " Practical Hints on the Selection and Use of the Micro- 
 scrope. ,, Intended for Beginners. By John Phin, 
 Editor of the " American Journal of Microscopy." 
 Fourth Edition. Greatly enlarged, with over 80 engrav- 
 ings in the text, and 6 full-page engravings, printed on 
 heavy tint paper. 12mo., cloth, gilt title, - $1.00 
 
 The Microscope. 
 
 By Andrew Boss. Fully Illustrated. 12mo., Cloth, 
 
 Gilt Title. 75 cents. 
 
 This is the celebrated article contributed by Andrew Ross to the 
 "Penny Cyclopeedia," and quoted so frequently by writers on the 
 Microscope. Carpenter and Hogg, in the last editions of their works 
 on the Microscope, and Brooke, in his treatise on Natural Philoso- 
 phy, all refer to this article as the best source for full and clear 
 information in regard to the principles upon which the modern 
 achromatic Microscope is constructed. It should be in the library 
 of every person to whom the Microscope is more than a toy. It is 
 written in simple language, free from abstruse technicalities. 
 
Diatoms. 
 
 Practical Directions for Collecting, Preserving, Trans- 
 porting, Preparing and Mounting Diatoms. By Prof. A, 
 Mead Edwards, M. D., Prof. Christopher Johnston, M. D., 
 Prof. Hamilton L. Smith, LL. D. 
 l2mo., Cloth. - 75 cents. 
 
 This volume undoubtedly contains the most complete series of 
 directions for Collecting, Preparing and Mounting Diatoms ever 
 published. The directions given are the latest and best. 
 
 Common Objects for the Microscope. 
 
 By Eev. J. G. Wood. Upwards of four hundred illus- 
 trations, including twelve colored plates by Tuffen West. 
 Illuminated Covers. 50 cents. 
 
 This book contains a very complete description of the objects ordi- 
 narily met with, and as the plates are very good, and almost every 
 object is figured, it is a most valuable assistant to the young micro- 
 ecopist. 
 
 Five Hundred and Seven Mechanical Movements. 
 
 Embracing all those which are Most Important in Dy- 
 namics, Hydraulics, Hydrostatics, Pneumatics, Steam 
 Engines, Mill and Other Gearing, Presses, Horology and 
 Miscellaneous Machinery; and including Many Move- 
 ments never before published, and several of which have 
 only recently come into use. By Henry T. Brown, editor 
 of the "American Artisan." Eleventh Edition. $1.00. 
 This work is a perfect Cyclopaedia of Mechanical Inventions, which 
 are here reduced to first principles, and classified so as to be readily 
 available. Every mechanic that hopes to be more workman, ought 
 to have a copy. 
 
 The Six Days of Creation. 
 
 The Chemical History of the Six Days of Creation. By 
 John Phin, C. E.', editor of " The American Journal of 
 Microscopy." 12mo., Cloth. - - 75 cents. 
 
 Stories About Horses. 
 
 Just the Book for Boys. With eight full-page engrav« 
 ings. In Boards, 15 cents. In Cloth - 50 cents. 
 
Instruction in the Art of Wood Engraving. 
 
 A Manual of Instruction in the Art of Wood Engraving; 
 with a Description of the Necessary Tools and Appar- 
 atus, and Concise Directions for their Use ; Explanation 
 of the Terms Used, and the Methods Employed for Pro- 
 ducing the Various Classes of Wood Engravings. By S. 
 E. Fuller. 
 
 Fully illustrated with Engravings by the author, separ- 
 ate sheets of engravings for transfer and practice 
 being added. 
 
 New Edition, Neatly Bound. 30 cents. 
 
 What to Do in Case of Accident. 
 
 What to Do and How to Do It in Case of Accident. A 
 Book for Everybody. 12mo., Cloth, Gilt Title. 50 cents. 
 This is one of the most useful books ever published. It tells ex- 
 actly what to do in case of accidents, such as Severe Cuts, Sprains, 
 Dislocations, Broken Bones, Burns with Fire, Scalds, Burns with 
 Corrosive Chemicals, Sunstroke, Suffocation by Foul Air, Hanging, 
 Drowning, Frost-Bite, Fainting, Stings, Bites, Starvation, Lightning, 
 Poisons, Accidents from Machinery, and from the Falling of Scaf- 
 folding, Gunshot Wounds, etc., etc. It ought to be in every house, for 
 young and old are liable to accident, and the directions given in this 
 book might be the means of saving many a valuable life. 
 
 BOUND VOLUMES OF 
 
 The Technologist, or Industrial Monthly. 
 
 The eight volumes of The Technologist, or Industrial 
 Monthly, which have been issued, form a Mechanical and Archi- 
 tectural EncyclopaBdia of gre^^aiue; and, when properly bound, 
 they form a most important addiflOD to any library. The splendid 
 full-page engravings, printed on tinted paper, in the highest style of 
 the art, are univei sally conceded to be the finest architectural and 
 mechanical engravings ever published in this country. "We have on 
 hand a few complete sets, which we offer for $16.00, handsomely and 
 uniformly bound in cloth. 
 
 We have also a few extra sets of Vols. HI to VEE inclusive. These 
 six volumes we offer for $8.00 bound in cloth. As there are but a very 
 few sets remaining^ those who desire to secure them should order 
 Immediately 
 
 Note.— The above prices do not include postage or express charges. 
 £Ehe set weighs altogether too much to be sent by mail. 
 
Shooting on the Wing. 
 
 Plain Directions for Acquiring the Art of Shooting on 
 the Wing. With Useful Hints concerning all that relates 
 to Guns and Shooting, and particularly in regard to the 
 art of Loading so as to Kill. To which has been added 
 several Valuable and hitherto Secret Eecipes, of Great 
 Practical Importance to the Sportsman. By an Old 
 Gamekeeper. 
 
 12mo., Cloth, Gilt Title. ... 75 cents. 
 
 The Pistol as a Weapon of Defence, 
 
 In the House and on the Koad. 
 
 12mo., Cloth. - - - , 50 cents. 
 
 This work alms to instruct the peaceable and law-abiding citizens 
 in the best means of protecting themselves from the attacks of the 
 brutal and the lawless, and is the only practical book published on 
 this subject. Its contents are as foUows : The Pistol as a Weapon of 
 Defence.— The Carrying of Fire- Arms.— Different kinds of Pistols in 
 Market; How to Choose a Pistol.— Ammunition, different kinds; 
 Powder, Caps, Bullets, Copper Cartridges, etc.— Best form of Bullet- 
 How to Load.— Best Charge for Pistols.— How to regulate the 
 Charge.— Care of the Pistol ; how to Clean it.— How to Handle and 
 Carry the Pistol.— How to Learn to Shoot.— Practical use of the 
 Pistol ; how to Protect yourself and how to Disable your antagonist. 
 
 Lightning Rods. 
 
 Plain Directions for the Construction and Erection of 
 Lightning Kods. By John Phin, C. E., editor of "The 
 Young Scientist," author of "Chemical History of the 
 Six Days of the Creation," etc. Second Edition. En- 
 larged and Fully Illustrated. 
 12mo., Cloth, Gilt Title. - - - 50 cents. 
 
 This is a simple and practical little work, intended to convey just 
 fcuch information as will enable every property owner to decide 
 whether or not his buildings are thoroughly protected. It is not 
 written in the interest of any patent or particular article of manu- 
 facture, and by following its directions, any ordinarily skilful me< 
 chanic can put up a rod that will afford perfect protection, and that 
 will not infringe any patent. Every owner of a house or barn oughr 
 to procure a copy. 
 
The Steel Square and Its Uses. 
 
 The Carpenters' Steel Square and its Uses ; being a de- 
 scription of the Square, and its Uses in obtaining the 
 Lengths and Bevels of all kinds of Kafters, Hips, Groins, 
 Braces, Brackets, Purlins, Collar-Beams, and Jack- 
 Eafters. Also, its application in obtaining the Bevels 
 and Cuts for Hoppers, Spring Mouldings, Octagons, 
 Stairs, Diminished Stiles, etc., etc., etc. Illustrated by- 
 Over Fifty Wood-cuts. By Fred. T. Hodgson, Editor 
 of the " Builder and Woodworker." 
 Cloth, Gilt, ----- 75 cents. 
 
 Mechanical Draughting. 
 
 The Students' Illustrated Guide to Practical Draughting. 
 A Series of Practical Instructions for Machinists, Me- 
 chanics, Apprentices, and Students at Engineering 
 Establishments and Technical Institutes. By T. P. 
 Pemberton, Draughtsman and Mechanical Engineer. 
 Illustrated with Numerous Engravings. 
 
 Cloth, Gilt, $1.00 
 
 This is a simple but thorough book, by a draughtsman of twenty- 
 five years' experience. It is intended for beginners and self-taught 
 students, as well as for those who pursue the study under the direc- 
 tion of a teacher. 
 
 Map of the Moon. 
 
 This is a copy of Webb's reduction of Baer & Maedler's 
 [celebrated Map of the Moon. It is engraved in the very 
 best style, every feature being remarkably clear and dis- 
 .tinct. It is accompanied with a small book, which con- 
 tains a description of the various topographical features 
 shown in the map, and forms an indispensable addition 
 to the library of every Amateur Astronomer. Price of 
 Map and Descriptive Book, - - - 50 cents. 
 J8®~ As the map was prepared for the purpose of illustrating the 
 monthly papers on "Astronomy for Amateurs," published in the 
 Young Scientist, it was given as a premium to all subscribers to 
 that journal. Those who received the map with the Journal, and 
 desire to procure the book, can obtain the latter, post-paid, for 20 
 cents. 
 
The Carpenter's Steel Square 
 
 AND ITS USES. 
 
 Being a description of the Carpenter's Framing Square, giving 
 simple and easy methods of obtaining the Lengths and Bevels of 
 all kinds of Rafters, Hips, Groins, Braces, Brackets, Purlins, Collar- 
 Beams, and Jack-Rafters. Also, its application in obtaining the 
 bevels and cuts for Hoppers, Spring Mouldings, Octagons, Stairs, and 
 Diminished Stiles. 
 
 Illustrated by over Fifty large and Clear Woodcuts. 
 
 By FRED. T. HODGSON, 
 
 Editor of the Builder and Wood- Worker. 
 
 Cloth, Gilt, - -- ----75 cents. 
 
 This is the only work of the kind ever published, and must prove 
 of great service to every person who may have to use a Carpenter's 
 Square. Joiners, Cabinet makers, Bricklayers, Stone Cutters, Plas- 
 terers, Lumber Dealers, Amateurs, and all who build a fence, tinker a 
 gate, or make a chicken-coop, will find something in this little book 
 that will help and aid them to do their work better and more intelli- 
 gently than they could without a knowledge of its contents. 
 
 Many difficult and troublesome mathematical problems can be 
 solved by the use of this tool, and the methods of solving them are 
 shown in the work. It describes how Painting, Plastering, and Brick 
 Work can be measured, and how many mechanical difficulties can be 
 overcome with great ease. It explains how Ellipses, Parabolas, 
 Octagons, Circles, and many other figures may be described by the 
 Steel Square. 
 
 This is the " book of the period " for all who work in wood, and its 
 low price places it within the reach of every journeyman and appren- 
 tice in the land. The engravings are of a high order, and the whole 
 is printed on heavy calendered paper. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLICATION COMPANY, 
 
 141 J>ey Street, New York. 
 
 SENT BY MAIL TO ANY ADDRESS ON RECEIPT OP PRICE* 
 
The Carpenter's Steel Square, 
 
 AND HOW TO USE IT. 
 
 OPINIONS OP THE PRESS. 
 
 r * This little work consists of a republication of some papers contributed by its talented 
 author some time ago to the A merican Builder \ and which were received with so much 
 favor by artisans, for whom they were written, as to induce their author to collect them 
 into the present volume." *******" The work is well illustrated by 
 upwards of fifty cuts which have been well engraved, and can hardly fail to give any 
 one an idea of the capabilities of the steel square, and what can be accomplished from 
 it when in skilful hands." — Journal of Franklin Institute, Phila. 
 
 "A most valuable little treatise of 70 pages upon that commonplace subject, the 
 * steel square,' being a description of that useful tool, and its uses in obtaining the lengths 
 and bevels of rafters, hips, groins, braces, brackets, purlins, collar beams and jack iafters, 
 and its application in obtaining the bevels and cuts for hoppers, spring moldings, octa- 
 gons, stairs, diminished stiles, etc., illustrated by over 50 wood cuts. Mr. Hodgson has 
 succeeded admirably in demonstrating that the study of the value and use of the 
 square is by no means the dry subject one would suppose, and that as a tool in the 
 hands of an intelligent workman, its possibilities are far beyond the standard usually 
 conceded to it. It is a valuable book for the use of the carpenter, and should be upon 
 the office desk of every retailer of lumber, from the valuable hints it will give him as a 
 guide to his negotiations with his customers in figuring out their wants. It is, in fact, 
 well adapted to the wants of every man who has a shed or fence to erect upon his 
 premises, or who wishes to keep a check upon his builder." — Northwestern Ltcmber- 
 man, Chicago, III. 
 
 "This is a little book that no carpenter, joiner, cabinetmaker, or amateur wood- 
 worker, can do without, if they wish to keep up with the times in their several branches 
 of trade. 
 
 "We believe this is the first and only book that has been written on this subject 
 alone, and we must say, that the duty of writing it fell into good hands, as the author 
 has handled his subject in a masterly manner. One is struck with astonishment at the 
 number of difficult and apparently intricate problems this simple instrument — the square — 
 is made to solve, and in such a manner that any mechanic who can read the figures on the 
 tool can work out the solutions. The lengths and bevels of rafters, hips, braces, 
 trusses, purlins, collar beams, and jack rafters are obtained as if by magic, and without 
 thought or calculation. 
 
 " The work is handsomely gotten up, printed on heavy white paper, substantially 
 bound, and cleanly turned out. The some fifty odd wood cuts are almost equal to steel 
 engravings, and the whole get-up is a credit to both author and publisher, and the low 
 price at which it is sold, (75 cents), places it within reach of every wood-worker, no 
 matter how poor he may be." — Enterprise, Collingwood, Ont. 
 
 " It is a timely book on the subject in hand, and we can safely recommend it as com- 
 petent to fill a long felt vacancy in the mechanics' library. The work presents a valu- 
 able collection of rules and data connected with the framing square, to the solution of 
 roofing problems, braces, hoppers, etc., etc." — Orillia Packet, Ont. 
 
 "Some fifty engravings aid in the description of the square and its uses in obtaining 
 lengths and bevels of all kinds ; also, its application in obtaining the bevels and cuts 
 for alj conceivable shapes used in the wood shops. Any wood-worker possessing this 
 book will find its cost, seventy-five cents, is not to be compared with its real vaL.\ =»nd 
 usefulness in the shop." — The Carriage Monthly, Phila. 
 
 " The work is a very valuable one, and should be in the hands of e#>ery carpenter." — 
 Messenger, Collingwood, Ont. 
 
 "The work will be of very great service to carpenters and builders." — Bulletin^ 
 Cottingwood> Ont. 
 
ISTEW DESIGNS 
 
 FOR 
 
 Fret or Scroll Sawyers. 
 
 MR. F. f. HODGSON, whose admirable series of articles on the USE OF THE 
 SCROLL SAW are now in course of publication in the Young Scientist, has pre- 
 pared for us a series of 
 
 SEVENTEEN DESIGNS, 
 
 of which the following is a list : 
 
 No. i. — This shows one side, back, and bottom, of a pen rack. It may be made 
 of ebony, walnut, or other dark wood. 
 
 No. 2. — Design for inlaying drawer fronts, table tops, box lids, and many other 
 things. It is a sumach leaf pattern. 
 
 No. 3. — Design for a thermometer stand. It may be made of any hard wood or 
 alabaster. The method of putting together is obvious. 
 
 No. 4. — This shows a design for a lamp screen. The open part may be covered 
 with tinted silk, or other suitable material, with some appropriate device worked.on 
 with the needle, or, if preferred, ornaments may be painted on the silk, etc. 
 
 No. 5. — A case for containing visiting cards. Will look best made of white holly. 
 
 No. 6. — A placque stand, it may be made of any kind of dark or medium wood. 
 
 No. 7. — A design for ornaments suitable for a window cornice. It should be 
 made of black walnut, and overlaid on some light colored hard wood. 
 
 No. 8 — A design for a jewel casket. This will be very pretty made of white holly 
 and lined with blue velvet. It also looks well made of ebony lined with crimson. 
 
 No. 9. — Frame. Will look well made of any dark wood. 
 
 No. 10. — Frame. Intended to be made in pairs. Looks well made of white holly, 
 with leaves and flowers painted on wide stile. 
 
 No. 11. — Horseshoe. Can be made of any kind of wood and used for a pen rack. 
 When decorated with gold and colors, looks very handsome. 
 
 No. 12. — Design for a hinge strap. If made of black walnut, and planted on a 
 white or oaken door, will look well. 
 
 No. 13. — Design for a napkin ring. May be made of any kind of hard wood. 
 
 No. 14. — Hinge strap for doors with narrow stiles. 
 
 No. 15. — Centre ornament for panel. 
 
 No. 16. — Corner ornament for panel. 
 
 No. 17. — Key-hole escutcheon. 
 
 These designs we have had photo-lithographed and printed on good paper, so that 
 the outlines are sharp, and the opposite sides of each design symmetrical. Common 
 designs are printed from coarse wooden blocks, and are rough and unequal, so that 
 it is often impossible to make good work from them. 
 
 The series embraces over forty different pieces, and designs of equal quality cannot 
 be had for less than five, ten or fifteen cents each. We offer them for twenty-five 
 cents for the set, which is an average price of only one cent and a half each. 
 
 Mailed to any address on receipt of price. 
 
 INDUSTRIAL PUBLICATION CO., 
 
 14 Dej Street, New York. 
 
SHEET NO. I. 
 
 SHEET NO. 2. 
 
 REDUCED FIGURES OF 
 
 NEW DESIGNS FOR FRET OR SCROLL SAWYERS. 
 
 SIZE OF SHEETS 28 BY 22 INCHES. 
 
 {For description see preeeding page,) 
 
THE WORKSHOP COMPANION. 
 
 A Collection of Useful and Reliable Recipes, 
 Rules, Processes, Uletnods, Wrinkles, 
 and Practical Hints, 
 
 FOH THE HOJJSEHOEJD *1*YI> THE SHOP. 
 
 Abyssinian Gold;— Accidents, General Rules;— Alabaster, how to work, polish and 
 clean; — Alcohol; — Alloys, rules for making, and ?6 recipes; — Amber, how to work, 
 polish and mend; — Annealing and Hardening gbss, copper, steel, etc.; — Arsenical 
 Soap; — Arsenical Powder; — Beeswax, how to bleach; — Blackboards, how to make ; — 
 Brass, how to work, polish, color, varnish, whiten, deposit by electricity, clean, etc., 
 etc.; — Brazing and Soldering; — Bronzing brass, wood, leather, etc.; — Burns, how to 
 cure; — Case-hardening; — Catgut, how prepared; — Cements, general rules for using, and 
 56 recipes for preparing; — Copper, working, welding, depositing; — Coral, artificial; — 
 Cork, working; — Crayons for Blackboards; — Curling brass, iron, etc.; — Liquid Cu- 
 ticle; — Etching copper, steel, glass; — Eye, accidents to;- -Fires, to prevent; — Clothes on 
 Fire; — Fireproof Dresses; — Fly Papers; — Freezing Mixtures, 6 recipes; — Fumigating 
 Pastils; — Gilding metal, leather, wood, etc.; — Glass, cutting, drilling, turning in the 
 lathe, fitting stoppers, removing tight stoppers, powdering, packing, imitating ground 
 glass, washing glass vessels, etc. ; — Grass, Dry, to stain; —Guns, to make shoot close, 
 to keep from rusting, to brown the barrels of, etc., etc.; — Handles, to fasten ;— Inks, 
 rules for selecting and preserving, and 34 recipes for; — Ink Eraser; — Inlaying; — Iron, 
 forging, welding, case-hardening, zincing, tinning, do. in the cold, brightening, etc., 
 etc. ; — Ivory, to work, polish, bleach, etc. ; — Javelle Watery - Jewelry and Gilded Ware, 
 care of, cleaning, coloring, etc. ; — Lacquer, how to make and apply; — Laundry Gloss ; — 
 Skeleton Leaves; — Lights, signal and colored, also for tableaux, photography, etc., 25 
 recipes; — Lubricators, selection of, 4 recipes for; — Marble, working, polishing, clean- 
 ing; — Metals, polishing ; — Mirrors, care of, to make, pure silver, etc., etc.; — Nickel, 
 to plate with without a battery; — Noise, prevention of; — Pairting Bright Metals; — 
 Paper, adhesive, barometer, glass, tracing, transfer, waxed, etc. ;•— Paper, to clean, take 
 ceases out of, remove water stains, mount drawing paper, to prepare for varnishing, 
 etc., etc. ; — Patina; — Patterns, to trace; — Pencils, indelible; — Pencil Marks, to fix ; — 
 Pewter; — Pillows for Sick Room, cheap and good; — Plaster-of-Favis, how to work ; — 
 Poisons, antidotes for, 12 recipes; — Polishing Powders, preparation and use of (six 
 pages); — Resins, their properties, etc.; — Saws, how to sharpen ;- -Sieves ; — Shellac, 
 properties and uses of; — Silver, properties of, oxidized, old, cleaning, to remove ink 
 stains from, to dissolve from plated goods, etc., etc. ; — Silvering mecals, leather, iron, 
 etc. ; — Size, preparation of various kinds of; — Skins, tanning and curing,, do with haif 
 on; — Stains, to remove from all kinds of goods; — Steel, tempering and working (six 
 pages) ; — Tin, properties, methods of working; — Varnish, 21 recipes for; — Varnishirg, 
 directions for; — Voltaic Batteries; — Watch, care of; — Waterproofing, 7 recipes for; — 
 Whitewash; — Wood Floo/s, waxing, staining, and polishing; — Wood, poUshiug, ^ 
 Wood, staining, 17 recipes; — Zinc, to pulverize, black varnish for. 
 
 164 closely-printed pages, neatly bound. Sent bv mail for 36 cerum 
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Hand-Book of Urinary Analysis. 
 
 CHEMICAL AND MICROSCOPICAL. 
 For the Use of Physicians, Medical Students, and Clinical Assistants. 
 By FRANK M. DEEMS, M. D., 
 Laboratory Instructor in the Medical Department of the University of New York; 
 Member of the N. Y. County Medical Society; Member of the New York 
 Microscopical Society, etc. 
 Illustrated, Limp Cloth, Gilt, 25 cts* 
 This Manual presents a plan for the Systematic Examination of Liquid Urine, Urinary 
 Deposits, and Calculi. It is compiled with the intention of supplying a concise guide, 
 which, from its small compass and tabulated arrangement, renders it admirably adapted 
 for use, both as a bed-side reference book and a work-table companion. The author 
 is well known as one who has had for several years a very extended experience as a 
 teacher of this important branch of physical diagnosis, and he has compiled a manual 
 which will serve to lessen the difficulties in the way of the beginner, and save valuable 
 time to the busy practitioner. Free by Mail on receipt of price. 
 
 JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 HOW TO SEE WITH THE MICROSCOPE. 
 
 Being Useful Hints Connected with the Selection and Use of the Instrument; also 
 Some Discussion of the Claims and Capacity of Modern High-Angled Objectives, 
 as Compared with those of Medium Aperture. With Instructions as to the 
 Selection and Use of American Object-Glasses of Wide Apertures. 
 By J. EDWARDS SMITH, M. D. 
 Professor of Histology and Microscopy; Corresponding Member San Francisco, 
 Dunkirk, and other Microscopical Societies, etc., etc. 
 Handsomely Illustrated. 
 Prof. Smith is well known as the most expert manipulator in this country, as regards 
 objectives of wide aperture, and in this volume he gives, in a clear and practical man- 
 ner, all the directions necessary to attain the surprising results which he has achieved. 
 No microscopist that uses anything better than French triplets can afford to be without it. 
 JPrice, $2.00. Free by Mail on receipt of price. Address 
 
 Jo be co7npleted in Six Monthly Parts. Price $15.00, payable in advance. 
 PART I. IS NOW READY. 
 
 A Manual of the Infusoria, 
 
 Including a Description of all Known Flagellate, Ciliate, and Tentaculiferous 
 Protozoa, British and Foreign, and an Account of the Organization and 
 Affinities of the Sponges. 
 By W. SAVILLE KENT, F.L.S., F.Z.S., F.R.M.S. 
 This important work, the result of many years' careful labor and investigation on the 
 part of the author, will, it is hoped, meet a want which has long existed among micro- 
 scopists. It will consist of a volume of text extending to about 800 pages super royal 
 8vo., and an atlas of 48 plates, containing upwards of 2,000 figures. 
 
 Wishing to lend what little assistance we can to the publication of this valuable work, 
 we have subscribed for a large number of copies, which we offer to the microscopists 
 of the United States at the prices named above. As the book is large and very expen- 
 sive, the publisher will issue very few copies beyond those for which subscriptions are 
 received, and consequently the price will undoubtedly be advanced after the work has 
 been completed. 
 
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SCIENTIFIC LIBRARY 
 
 FOR YOUNG- PEOPLE. 
 
 MANUALS OF ELEMENTARY SCIENCE. 
 
 Fcap. 8vo., 128 pp., with Illustrations, Limp Cloth, 40 cents each, 
 S^SENT BY MAIL, POST FREE, ON RECEIPT OF PRICE. 
 
 MATTER AND MOTION. 
 
 By J. Clerk Maxwell, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge. 
 
 This work is a simple and yet thorough and accurate introduction to the study 
 of Physical Science in general, by one oi the ablest scientists of Great Britain. 
 
 ASTRONOMY. 
 
 By W. H. Christie, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge; the Royal Observatory, 
 Greenwich. 
 
 The illustrations in this book will give the young student a very clear idea of the 
 actual arrangement of the heavenly bodies and of their motions. 
 
 CHEMISTRY. 
 
 By Albert J. Bernays. 
 
 Describes a great many simple and interesting experiments, as well as discusses 
 the general principles of the science. 
 
 BOTANY. 
 
 By Robert Bentley, Professor of Botany in Kings College, London. 
 
 This little book on Botany has been prepared with the intention of supplying young 
 boys and girls with a simple introduction to the study of plants. It is written in as 
 plain language as possible, and is very fully illustrated. 
 
 ZOOLOGY. 
 
 By Alfred Newton, M.A., F.R.S., Professor of Zoology and Comparative Anatomy 
 in the University of Cambridge. 
 
 Full of interesting facts, stated in simple and forcible language. 
 
 PHYSIOLOGY. 
 
 By F. le Gros Clarke, F.R.S., St. Thomas's Hospital. 
 
 The object of this elementary treatise is to teach some of the simple truths of Human 
 Physiology, such as may be intelligible without any extended knowledge of other 
 branches of science. But it is hoped, by the avoidance of technical terms, when 
 possible, and their definition when essential, and also by a familiar explanation of any 
 natural law which may be referred to, that there will be no material difficulty in under- 
 standing the simple principles and details which will be taught in these pages.— 
 Author's Introduction. 
 
scientific libeaey FOB young people. (Continued), 
 
 GEOLOGY. 
 
 By the Rev. T. G. Bonney, M.A., F.G.S., Fellow and late Tutor of St. John's 
 College, Cambridge. 
 
 In the following pages I have attempted to set down briefly the principal facts 
 of Geology, and the conclusions which have been drawn from them ; to indicate the 
 nature of the earth's crust, the processes which have acted and are still acting upon it, 
 and the probable history of that little portion of it on which we live. I was requested, 
 before commencing my task, to avoid the use of long words and the discussion of 
 doubtful points, and have done my best to attend to this request. — Author's Preface, 
 
 CRYSTALLOGRAPHY- 
 
 By Henry Palin Gurney, M.A., Clare College, Cambridge. 
 
 Crys allography has been hitherto strangely neglected in this country as a branch 
 of education. Its great importance to the chemist, the physicist, and the geologist cannot 
 be questioned, and it is full of interest for all. No study is better calculated to sharpen 
 at once the observing and the reasoning faculties of youth. There is nothing repulsive 
 in crystals. Their beauty is often more attractive, as it is more enduring, than that 
 of the fairest flowers. Their symmetry illustrates the rhythm and the harmony that 
 pervade the universe. They have already suggested the most important law of modern 
 chemistry. They tell us more about the properties of atoms than any other form of 
 substance. — Author's Preface. 
 
 SPECTROSCOPE, THE WORK OF THE, 
 
 By Richard A. Proctor, Esq. 
 
 I have endeavored to make this little treatise on the Spectroscopic Analysis clear and 
 simple for beginners, but at the same time accurate, and as complete as possible within 
 so limited a space. * * * I have endeavored to give a full account of all the prin- 
 ciples on which the application of spectroscopy depends, and also of all the chief 
 methods of observation and their results. — Author's Preface. 
 
 ELECTRICITY. 
 
 By Fleeming Jenkins, F.R.S., Professor of Engineering in the University of Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 Gives the most recent views of scientific men, and an account of the latest dis- 
 coveries and the principles upon which they are founded — such as the telephone, 
 microphone, photophone, etc. 
 
 l^p^These ten volumes form the most complete popular Scientific Library now 
 
 accessible to the student. If the ten volumes are ordered at one time they will be sent 
 
 free to any part of the country for $3.50. 
 
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A New and Live Book on the Chin. 
 Just Published. Price 75 cents, in cloth. 
 
 PLAIN DIRECTIONS 
 
 FOR ACQUIRING THE ART OF 
 
 SHOOTING ON THE WING. 
 
 With Useful Hints concerning all that rtlates to Guns and Shoot* 
 ing, and particularly in regard to the art of Loading so as 
 to Kill. To which has been added several Valuable 
 and hitherto Secret Recipes, of Great Practical 
 Importance to the Sportsman. 
 
 By AN OLD GAMEKEEPER. 
 
 Sent free by mail on receipt of price. 
 
 Opinions of the Fret*. 
 
 The directions are so plain that they cannot well Jbe mistaken, 
 and they are expressed in the fewest possible words.*— Turf, Meld 
 and Farm, 
 
 FaciDg the title-page is one of the handsomest, best-executed 
 woodcuts, we have ever seen. It is entitled "The Wounded 
 Snipe," and almost equals a steel engraving.— Baptist Union, 
 
 From its pages we should think even the most experienced 
 sportsman might derive some new ideas, while the beginner will 
 find it an invaluable assistant. — Country Gentleman, 
 
 For concise instructions as to how to shoot, to select, load, 
 carry, and keep a gun in order, etc., it cannot be surpassed. — 
 Western Rural. 
 
 A pleasantly written, and, it seems, to us, correct and practical 
 treatise on the sportsman's art; a modest little book, but one from 
 the reading of which a good deal of the right kind of knowledge 
 is to be gained. — Appleton's Journal. 
 
 * A practical and well-written handbook, especially adapted for 
 tne use of young sportsmen, as it gives sensible advice on the 
 manipulation of firearms, and the rules and etiquette of t&e field. 
 Scientific American* 
 
 I 
 
I NEW SERIES OF PRACTICAL BOOKS, 
 
 WORK MANUALS 
 
 The intention of the publishers is to give in this Series a number of small books which 
 will give Thorough and Reliable Information in the plainest possible language, upon the 
 ARTS OF EVERYDAY LIF IC. 
 Each volume will be by some one who is not only practically familiar with his 
 subject, but who has the ability to make it clear to others. The volumes will each con- 
 tarn from 50 to 75 pages; will be neatly and clearly printed on good paper, and bound 
 in tough and durable binding. The price will be 25 cents each. 
 
 The following are the titles of the volumes, and the order in wh.clitheyw.il be 
 issued. No. I. is ready for delivery, No. TT. is in press, and the others w.ll follow 
 at short intervals. 
 I. Cements and Glue. 
 
 \ Practical Treatise on the Preparation and Use of All Kinds of Cements, Glue 
 and Paste. By John Phin, Editor of the Young Scientist and the American 
 Journal of Microscopy. 
 Every mechanic and householder will find this volume of almost everyday use. It 
 contains nearly 200 recipes for the preparation of Cements for almost every conceivable 
 purpose. 
 
 TI. The Slide Rule, and How to Use It. 
 
 This is a compilation of Explanations, Rules and Instructions suitable for mechanics 
 and others interested in the industrial arts. Rules are given for the measurement of 
 all kinds of boards and planks, timber in the round or square, glaziers work and 
 painting, brickwork, paviors' work, tiling and slating the measurement of vessels of 
 various 8 shapes, the wedge, inclined planes, wheels and axles, evers, the weighing and 
 measurement of metals and all solid bodies, cylinders, cones, globes octagon rules and 
 formula, the measurement of circles and a comparison of French and English measure , 
 with much other information, useful to builders, carpenters, bricklayers, glaziers, 
 paviors, slaters, machinists and other mechanics. 
 
 Possessed of this little Book and a good Slide Rule, mechanics might carry in then 
 pocke^l hundreds of times the power of cafculation that they now have in then- 
 heads, and the use of the instrument is very easily acquired. 
 
 III. Construction, Use and Care of Drawing: Instruments. 
 
 Being a Treatise on Draughting Instruments, with Rules for their Use and 
 Caref Explanations of Scales, Sectors and Protractors Together with Memor- 
 anda for Draughtsmen, Hints on Purchasing Paper, Ink, Ins ruments Penc Is 
 etc Also a Price List of all materials required by Draughtsmen. Illustrated 
 with twenty-four Explanatory Illustrations. By Fred. 1. Hodgson. 
 
 IV. Plaster : Hoav to Make and How to Use It. 
 
 V. Hints for Painters and Paperhangers. 
 
 VI. Rules, Tables, Data and Memoranda for Mechanics and 
 
 Others. (Parti.) 
 
 VII. The Construction and Use of Saws. 
 
 With 1 )irections for Filing, Setting, etc. 
 VI IT. Pules, Tables, Data and Memoranda for Mechanics and 
 Others. (Part II.) 
 
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 !». . Bo x ^852. 14 Dey Street, New York.