LONDON : PRINTED BV GEO. NICHOLS, EARLS COURT, LEICESTER SQUARE. 1847. Blank inserted to ensure correct page position EXPLANATION of a View of the HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS, and the PLAINS OF HINDOSTAN, now exhibiting at the PANORAMA, LEICESTER SQUARE. 1. Snowy Mountain Range. 2. Belaspoor. 3. Captain Taylor's. 4. Soobathoo. 5. Road to Soobathoo. 6. Lord Gough's House. 7. Lord Hardinge's house. 8. Jacko. 9. Simla. 10. Mahassoo 11. Theog. 12. Khoteghur. 13. Nahavela. 14. Sir Walter Gilbert's house. 15. Gangoutri and Jumnootree Peaks. 16. Choor Mountain. 17. Lundoar and Massoncu. 18. George Clarke's, Esq. 19. Mountains, commonly called " Tapp's Nose." 20. Ganges. 21. Jumna. 22 Rugga River 23. Umballah. 24. Nooburkpoo. 25. Nunca Majra. 26. Pinjore. 27. Kalka. 28. Old Hill Fort. 29. Lower Belt of Hills, above which is Sinhind 30. Loodiana. 31. Cabul. 32. Sutlej. 33. Roopur Town. 34. Jalindhur Doab. 35. Bazaars. 36. Mulesheds and watering place. 37. Bluntish house. 38. Kussowlee. H DESCRIPTION OF A VIEW OF THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS, WITH THE BRITISH STATIONS OF KUSSOWLEE, SOOBATHOO, AND SIMLA, AND A VAST EXTENT OF THE PLAINS OF HINDOSTAN, NOW EXHIBITING AT THE PANORAMA, LEICESTER SQUARE. PAINTED BY THE PROPRIETOR, ROBERT BURFORD, ASSISTED BY II. C. SELOUS, FROM DRAWINGS TAKEN IN 1846, BY CAPTAIN GEORGE J. WHITE, ;3lst Regiment. LONDON : PRINTED BV OEO. NICHOLS, EARL'S COURT, LEICESTER SQUARE. 1847. THE HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS. The Himalaya is a stupendous and magnificent chain of mountains in Asia, extending from the seventy-third degree of east longitude, along the north of Hindostan to the borders of China, separating Hindostan from Tibet and Tartary, and forming the general boundary of Tibet through its whole extent, from Cabul to Upper Assam. This vast chain was the Imaus and Emodus of the ancients, and was sometimes termed the Indian Caucasus; the natives at present call it the Hindoo Koosh, or Indian mountains, as well as Himalaya, a Sanscrit word, signifying snowy. On the side of Hindostan, the central part of the ridge rises rapidly from a level into sharp and precipitous cliffs, far exceeding the Andes in height, whilst the Tibet side falls gradually into green hills, and ends in sloping plains. The mountains, which vary from seventy to one hundred and eighty miles in breadth, run in irregular ridges of every imaginable shape, and are undivided by any valley of consequence from the one plain to the other. The various peaks of the snowy ridge seen, are estimated to be from 16,203 to 25,749 feet in height. The mountain from which the present panorama is taken, from its height and situation, commands a most comprehensive view of this vast and fearfully imposing scene — a scene that defies language to convey an adequate idea of, so grand are its colossal proportions, so sublime and glorious its general effect. Towards the north, the immediate foreground is broken by precipitous rocks, rugged cliffs, wooded heights, and culti- vated ravines, some of which, two or three thousand feet in depth, have their sides covered with dark forests, where it is impossible to cultivate the soil ; but where the ground admits of husbandry, even when the descents are most precipitous, successive lines of terraces appear, like the steps of some magnificent amphitheatre, upon which the produce waves in many colored hues, abundantly irrigated by streamlets, frequently conducted from very remote springs. In many places these terraced fields are carried up to an extraordinary height, even to the very tops of the ranges, in situations apparently inaccessible, and there the effects of the elevation upon the temperature of the atmosphere are strikingly observable from the diversity of tints the produce assumes, the highest being in fresh blade brilliantly green, whilst the lowest is sear and ripe. Many small hamlets and neat houses are dotted about, presenting a look of neatness and comfort ; shutout from the world, their inhabitants, if they do not live in peace amongst themselves, are at least undisturbed by the visits of travellers. All around the lower hills spread out in every direction, romantic and picturesque, mountain, plain, and precipice, in ten thousand varied forms, blended by distance, and softened by the various tints of sunshine and shade; shattered peaks, black mural precipices, ravines purple from their depths, and graceful hills covered most luxuriantly with dark cedars, oaks clustered with acorns, and rhododendrons blushing with scarlet bloom. The British station of Soobathoo is seen on one side in an arid plain, and Simla, another station, with the mountain of Jacko on which it is partly built, stands boldly prominent in front. Almost on a level with the spectator are the summits of the Bayree, Daybee, and Kurroll mountains, and rising still higher the Whartoo, Choor, and Sirgool, with their peaks covered with snow, like giants mantled in white, shining brilliantly against the azure depth of the heavens. These, although but mere vassals of the mighty Himalaya, would be the boast of other countries, as they rise from eight to twelve thousand feet perpendicular height. In the extreme distance the wide stretching snowy range occupies an immense extent of uninterrupted outline, and fascinates the eye with its huge but aerial sublimity, — " Snow piled on snow, the mass appears, The gathered winter of ten thousand years." A wide undulating plain of everlasting snow, from which three mighty peaks, called the Jumnootree, shoot up to an immense altitude ; two joined by a ridge being irregular, curiously rugged, and majestically dis- tinct; the third, at some distance, being isolated and black, forming a singular contrast with the hoary desert around. Other immense peaks, probably above the source of the Ganges, are seen towards the east, suc- ceeded again by others, until lost in the vast and boundless distance. Over this forlorn and desolate field of snow, and between the peaks, are the passes which lead into Koonawur and Chinese Tartary, the principal of which, the Shatool, Yoosoo, and Boorendoo passes, although nearly fifty miles distant, being distinctly visible, such is the delicate purity of the atmosphere. In the opposite direction towards the south is the beautiful valley of Pinjore, and the verge of sight melting into a line of vapour scarcely to be distinguished from the horizon, is bounded by the Punjab, the glowing plains around Sirhind, the North-West Provinces, the country towards Bengal, and it is said even to the Pir Panjal of Cashmir ; the whole like an exquisite map spread out beneath, through which the Sutlej, the Ganges, the Indus, and numerous tributary streams glittering like veins of silver, are seen winding amongst the fertile plains, until lost in the blue etherial mist of the distance. Dark lines and spots mark towns and villages, and the luridly glaring air over them indicates a burning wind, which never reaches this happy mountain region. Altogether the scene is one of sublime magnificence, once seen, never to be forgotten ; above, around, beneath, all is on the grandest of Nature's scales — the beautiful, the terrific, fertility and barrenness finely contrasted. On the one side a noble, lovely, and almost boundless prospect, a fairy-like scene, gorgeously glowing under the deep splendour of an Asiatic sky ; on the other, " Nature's bulwark, built by time, 'Gainst eternity to stand, Mountains terribly sublime," which are not to be equalled for extent and height in the whole world, the vastness of which is almost oppressive ; yet when some definite idea of their size can be formed, their immensity strikes the mind with awe, whilst the deep and universal repose, and voluptuous tranquillity, so soothing to the senses, leads to their contemplation with silent admiration, unmixed pleasure, and pure natural devotion. This first barrier of mountains, enormous as it is, peaks of every ima- ginable shape, varying in height from 16,203 to 25,749 feet, from one to ten thousand feet of which is eternal snow,* is but the screen to other assemblages of higher mountains, which again are still inferior to the world like bulwarks on the left bank of the Indus, from whence they * The line of eternal snow in the latitude 30°, 31', in Asia, i9 fixable at 15,000 feet on the southern or Indian aspect of the Himalaya mountains, and on the northern (not the Tartaric) may be concluded at 14,500; but there are so many conflicting conditions of the question, that no precise boundary can be assigned without an explanation. — O. Gerard's Visit to Shatool, §r. 6 slope to the Steppes of Tartary, and are at length lost in the immeasurable deserts of Cobi, and the deep woods and countless marshes of Siberia, the summits of which ranges have been estimated at the enormous eleva- tion of 30,000 feet, or nearly six miles perpendicular height. A mourn- ful, awful, and barren region, where, surrounded by the most gigantic pillars of the universe, sublimity veiled in mystery sits fettered to deso- lation. The immense space occupied by the mountains, varying, as before mentioned, from 70 to 180 miles in breadth, is divided into a number of small states, governed by Rajahs or Ranas, and very thinly populated. Many are independant, others are tributary to Tibet, Nepaul, Cabul, &c. The inhabitants are generally a bold and hardy race — " Wild warriors of the Turquoise Hills, — and those Who dwell beyond the everlasting snows Of Hindoo Koosh, in stormy freedom bred, Their fort, the rock, their camp, the torrent's bed." The hill porters, or Coolies, are celebrated for their great powers of endurance, and the Ghoorca regiments, raised in the Nepaul States, have proved themselves good soldiers, by the effective services they rendered at Sobraon and elsewhere. The women in most parts are good-looking and healthy. The houses are generally placed in picturesque and sheltered situations, and are well built ; the severity of the winter, and the heavy rains, which continue for several months, rendering it necessary that they should be strong. The mountains are considered very sacred, consequently temples dedicated to Krishna, Siva, and other Hindoo deities, are found in all parts, and Brahmins are numerous. The wealth of the mountaineers consists in their flocks of sheep, goats, and a few horned cattle of a small breed; wild animals are rarely seen, occasionally perhaps a tiger or panther, and a few bears ; deer are by no means numerous, but the domestic cat is met with every where. Wheat, barley, rice, as well as potatoes, and many European vegetables, are cultivated for use, and poppies and ginger for trade ; scarcity and famine often occur in the most elevated parts, from the grain not ripening, when the inhabitants eat their sheep and goats, dried fruit and roots. Many of the finest fruits of Europe are cultivated, the apricot especially is abundant round every inhabited spot, and is frequently the only vestige of long deserted villages; wild strawberries, raspberries, grapes, pears, mulberries, and all sorts of nuts are in profusion, to the elevation of 7,000 or 8,000 feet, and in some instances higher. In many parts the forests and woods present an appearance scarcely differing from the most splendid and luxuriant British scenery; the cedar, oak, sycamore, deodar, yew, &c.,seem to attain their best growth at the height of 10,000 or 11,000 feet, where trees of the noblest size flourish, die, and fall unheeded, returning to their primeval element to afford nourishment to another race. Flowers are abundant, and are much prized, especially the double white rose of India, which is found wild in all parts, creeping to the tops of the tallest trees, the flowers hanging in thousands of beautiful clusters ; the rhododendron, also, is very ornamental, it here grows to the height of forty or fifty feet, and is so numerous that the banks and dells in some parts are covered with its extraordinarily magnificent scarlet or delicate pink flowers. Grain crops ripen at the height of 10,000 feet, and the birch and juniper flourish at 13,000 ; at 14,000 the grass begins to break, but still slips of verdure and many hardy plants flower to 14,500 or 15,000 feet; patches of soil are even met with, and plants of the cryptogamous lichen family vegetate at 16,000 feet absolute elevation, above which vegetable life ceases altogether. Mr. BURFORD feels it his duty to state, as an erroneous impression is entertained by some portion of the Public that the Panoramic Views are a species of scene-painting, coloured in distemper, or other inferior manner, that such is not the case — they being all painted in the finest oil colour and varnish that can be procured, and in the same manner as a gallery picture. 8 DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVING. 1.— Snowy Mountain Range. This sublime and wonderful chain of everlasting snow, with which no other in the world can compare for extent, height, and magnificence, may indeed be considered one of the most glorious works of the creation, one of the mightiest wonders of the world. It is not surprising that the Hindoos viewed it with awe as well as admiration, no wonder they worshipped it as a deity, ranking it in their Pantheon as the father of the Ganges, and of her sister Ooma the spouse of Siva the destroyer. A perpetual frost seems to rest on the summits, and the vast plains of snow appear never to melt, for no glacier is found in its whole extent of more than one thousand miles. Where occasionally peaks rise too perpendicularly for the snow to rest upon, they appear stratified and to dip to the north-east at an angle of about 45 degrees. Never having been ascended, there is no positive proof of their formation, but from the best observations they are conjectured not to be granite in the mass, but gneiss with veins of granite. Vast therefore as is their elevation, yet one would be tempted to suppose, that they are but secondary to some more mighty formation, some remnant of a former world. There are various passes through this im- mense plain of snow, and between the highest peaks ; three, forming the com- munication with Koonawur and Chinese Tartary, may be discerned from this spot — the Boorendoo, 15,171 feet above the sea; the Yoosoo, 15,877 feet, and the Shatool, 15,555 feet; all from their great height most difficult and dangerous to travel. 2.— Belaspoor. A considerable town on the Sutlej, well built, principally of stone, having a population of above 3500 souls. 4.— Soobathoo. A curious and pretty little table land, 4205 feet above the level of the sea, in the centre of a magnificent amphitheatre of hills, which rise one above the other on every side ; but although in so elevated a situation, it is not quite free from the hot winds which are occasionally felt severely. It was formerly a military station belonging to the Ghoorcas,but on the termination of the second war with that people, a British force occupied it, and protection was at the same time extended to all the hill states south of the Sutlej, &c. It has since been the head quarters of a battallion. When the Sikh war commenced in 1845, it was occupied by the Hon. Company's 1st European Light Infantry, who on receiving the order to join the main army, on the 10th of December, in a few hours left their cantonments, and marched during the day to Kalka, a distance of nineteen miles ; the celerity of this movement, however, did not enable them to join the Commander-in-Chief, until the battle of Moodkee had been fought. 9.— Simla. The most northern of the British Stations, and the Court Sanatarium of Bengal. It has now been established many years, and each successive season proves its advantages, and adds to its popularity. It.is 23 miles from Soobathoo, and is alike beautiful in situation, singularly picturesque, and extremely healthy. The temperature being peculiarly adapted to European constitutions, it has become the resort of invalids from all parts. Simla is built on a ridge of 9 mountains running east and west, about 8000 feet above the level of the sea- a mountain called Jacko, of greater elevation, and covered with fine timber, is also built upon wherever a wall could stand. The houses are exceedingly neat, some even elegant in their construction ; that appropriated to the residence of the Governor-General stands conspicuously, in the vicinity of a large and excellent bazaar, it is capacious, but low, and is strongly built. Round the mountain Jacko is the principal and fashionable ride, partly formed under the direction of Lord Combermere. It is nearly 7 miles in length, and exhibits from all parts the most superb and beautiful scenery. Lord Amhurst visited Simla in 1827, and there received a complimentary mission from Runjeet Singh, and since that period it has usually been the residence of the Governors General, during the hottest months. Most of the proclamations during the Cabul war, 1838-9 and 42, were dated from thence, and Lords Hardinge and Gough are passing the present summer there. The season generally lasts from May to October, being the period during which the heat in the plains is most oppressive. In the last mentioned month the leave of absence of officers usually expires, and a general departure ensues, the population rapidly diminishing from five or six thousand, to little more than one thousand, very few visitors willingly remaining the winter in so elevated a situation. Great consternation prevailed at Simla, as well as at Soobathoo and Umballah, when Runjoor Singh with a Sikh army threatened Loodiana, all the troops had been withdrawn to join the great army, and Simla presented peculiar induce- ments for the pillaging propensities of the Sikhs; hardy Ghoontsor hill ponies, and baggage mules were prepared, and all the European residents were ready for a speedy flight across the hills to Mussooree, when the news arrived of the important victory of the gallant Sir Harry Smith, at Alii wal, which restored confidence, and the hill tribes declared early in favor of the British ; some of them had indeed already been organised by the Hon. J. C. Erskine,the British resident, and had taken up a position in an old fort at Sachuttee, commanding the ascent from the river Gumber. 10.— Mahassoo. The nearest and most beautiful ridge of mountains between Simla and the snowy range. It is about thirteen miles from that town, and is nearly 9500 feet above the sea. The whole is most luxuriantly wooded with enormous cedars, pines, oaks, and other forest trees, and presents a fine diversity of sylvan scenery, much frequented by the inhabitants of Simla on pic-nic parties, and excursions of pleasure. On a small peak stands a pretty temple in the Chinese style, dedicated to Siva. 11.— Theog. A mountain 8018 feet in height above the sea, formerly a Ghoorca post, the remains of a considerable fort being still visible on its summit. A hill state takes its name from this mountain. 12.— Khoteghur. A large town on the slope of the Whartoo above the river Sutlej, and 6900 feet above the sea. It is situated in Bussheer, one of the most extensive, fertile, and beautiful of the mountain states. It was formerly the station of two companies of Sepoys, to defend the extreme outworks of the company's dominions, the station was however abandoned in 1830, and has now only a small Ghoorca guard. Rampoor, the capital of Bussheer, is situated on the Sutlej, below Khoteghur, and communicates with the Punjab by means of a curious joola or rope bridge, by which persons are slung across the river. Before the Ghoorca invasion it was a place of great importance, being the entrepot between Cashmir, Ladak, &c, and Hindostan. Three fairs were 10 annually held, at which several thousand traders from those and other parts, even Chinese Tartary, used to assemble. It is still a place of considerable sanctity, and contains three large temples. The Whartoo, on which Khoteghur is situated, is an elegantly formed mountain, 10,673 feet in height above the sea, having on its summit an ancient Ghoorca fort now in ruins. This was one of the lofty stations selected by Capt. Hodgson, and Lieut. Herbert, for prose- cuting their great trigonometrical operations, to determine the heights of the snowy peaks of the Himalaya chain. 15.— Gangoutree and Jumnootree Peak. The Gangoutree is a mountain through which the river Ganges escapes from the great Himalayan chain, forcing its way through a cavern, the entrance to which considerably resembles a cow's mouth, from which the mountan takes its name. A small town is situated at the spot which is 10,073 feet above the level of the sea, and is a celebrated place of Hindoo pilgrimage. The Jumnootree, the source of the Jumna, is formed of three great peaks, the highest portion of the snowy range in this position ; they are respectively of the immense height of 21,155, 20,122, and 20,916 feet perpendicular elevation. 16.— Choor Mountain. One of the highest peaks of the lower Himalaya, between the Sullej and Jumna, the summitis 12,149 feet in height above the sea, and is but for a very short period of the year entirely free from snow- Parties of pleasure are frequently made from the British settlements to ascend the Choor, a task of no small difficulty, and on the extreme summit is a large heap of stones, with a wooden post in the centre, on which the names of aspiring individuals who have achieved the feat are carved. When the atmosphere is perfectly clear, the mountain from its great elevation (more than two miles and a quarter perpendicular height) affords a singularly fine and extensive view. The summit of the Choor was one of the stations during the great trigonometrical survey, and Capt. Hodgson and Lieut. Herbert dwelt here several weeks together, exposed to all the inclemency attending so elevated a position in a mountainous region. 19.— Ganges. This great river rises in two springs in Tibet, which after a course of 300 miles, meeting at the ridge of the Himalaya, unite their waters, and form what is properly termed the Ganges, from the Hindoo word Ganga, a river. Forcing its way through the mountains at Gangoutree, it flows 800 miles amongst the hills, and finally enters Hindostan, where pursuing a course of 1200 miles with a smooth navigable stream, and receiving eleven rivers larger than the Thames, and many smaller, it at last enters the sea at the Bay of Bengal. The Ganges is subject to an annual rise of about 31 feet, inundating the country to the extent of more than one hundred miles in width, spreading the most extraor- dinary fertility in its course; it is no wonder therefore that the Hindoos have deified it, and hold its waters in the highest veneration, a prodigious number of pilgrims coming annually from the most distants parts to bathe in it. 21.— Jumna. A considerable river, which rises in the mountains of Serinaghur, flows south-east by Delhi and Agra, and joins the Ganges at Allahabad. 23.— Umballah. A large flourishing town and military cantonment, which although fifty miles distant is generally distinctly visible. It was the residence of the 11 Governor-General's political agent with the Sikh nation, and here Lord Ellen- borough established a large force to be available in any of the Upper Provinces, an act of foresight on his part, attended with the most favourable results on the breaking out of the Sikh war, as they were at once fresh, and ready to join the Governor-General at the rendezvous at Kuna Ka Serai. Z6.— Pinjore. A beautiful valley of considerable extent, taking its name from the small village of Pinjore, which is prettily situated about seven miles from the base of the hiils, on the banks of a meandering stream called the Guzzur, which shortly after enters the low belt of hills parallel with the higher range, and forming the opposite boundary of the valley. The Puttialah Rajah has here a house with fine gardens, the water works in which are celebrated throughout India; they were formed by one of the Mogul Emperors for a hot weather residence, and were given to the Rajah by the government after the Ghoorca war. 30.— laoodiana. A large town on the Sutlej, situate on what appears to have been an island in former times, having nullahs or water courses on three, and the old bed of the river on the fourth side. A large proportion of its population are Cash- merians, who have here a considerable manufactory for shawls. The fort, when the Sikh war commenced, was garrisoned by two native regiments, the Nusseeree and Sirmoore battallions, and contained the sick of Her Majesty and the Hon. Company's troops who hod left the place to join the army of the Sutlej, as well as all the ladies and children of the officers, for whose safety great fears were entertained when the approach of Runjoor Singh's large army was known. The arrival of Sir Harry Smith with the first division of the British, was therefore joyfully hailed, and the subsequent splendid affair at Alliwal, some six or seven miles only distant, terminated all suspense. 31.— Cabul. Well known from the disastrous events which there befel the Anglo Indian Army, during the late Affghanistan war. Immediately in front lies the Punjab or Sikh country, a territory comprised between the Indus on the west, and the Sutlej on the east, of which Lahore is the capital. Asa frontier state it is of immense importance to the British, for being situated between Hindostan and Cabul, it is the only side from which an invasion might be feared. Its name implies the country of the five waters, five rivers traversing its plains. As the ancients entered India by the ford of Attock, and crossed the Punjab towards the Ganges, these rivers were known to, and named by them. 3Z.— Sutlej. The Hyphasis of the ancients, a considerable river tributary to the Indus, and very conspicuous from this spot. It rises in Chinese Tartary far in the interior, on the boundary of countries to which Europeans only have access at great risk and danger, so that its true source has never been traced. Flow- ing from the Himalaya mountains to the south-west, it forms the eastern river of the Punjab, dividing that country from India proper. It receives in its course the Chunaub, the Beeas, and the Ravee, but the rapidity of its course prevents its being navigable. The Sutlej is memorable in the late war against the Sikhs; the final battle, the bloodiest ever fought in India, was fought on its banks, and thousands of their best warriors perished in its waters ; by the subsequent treaty all the protected Sikh states on the south side, and all the Jalindhur Doab on the opposite side, as far as the river Beeas, were ceded in perpetuity to the British. 12 33.— Roopur Town. A small town on the Sutlej, the residence of a Rajah. Here is a ghaut or ford, celebrated in former times as the place where Nadir Shah crossed with his army to invade Hindostan, spreading his conquests as far as Delhi, and in modern days 1831, as the place of amicable meeting between Lord W. Ben- tinck, the Governor-General of India, and Runjeet Singh, the Sovereign of the Punjab, who were encamped with their respective armies on either bank of the river ; the camps for several weeks being the scenes of great ceremony and oriental display. 34.— Jalindhur Doab. The Doab of Bish Jalindhur is a large tract of country, lying between the Sutlej and the Beeas rivers, which was ceded to the British fey the Maharajah Dhuleep Singh, after the late war. 38.— Kussowlee. A fine range of hills rising immediately from the valley of Pinjore, to the height of 7000 feet above the sea, from the highest point of which the present panorama was taken. A new military station for European troops was esta- blished at Kussowlee in 1843, by the late Governor-General, Lord Ellenborough, with a view to have an efficient body of troops ready on the contingency of a war with the Sikh nation. When it was known that the Sikh army had actually crossed the Sutlej, Sir Harry (now Lord) Hardinge, sent an express to order down Her Majesty's 29th foot, then quartered there, which joined the main army in fine condition, immediately after the battle of Moodkee, and formed with the 1st European Light Infantry from Soobathoo, part of Major-General Gilbert's 2nd Division of Infantry. The Kussowlee range is chiefly wooded with fir trees of large growth. The numerous bungalows of the officers and residents may be seen in the middle ground, pleasantly situated along the sides and on the crests of the hills. Geo. Nichols, Printer, EarVs Court, Leicester Square.