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Post Svo. 7s. 6c L NAPIER’S BATTLES OF THE PENIN¬ SULAR WAR. Portrait. Post Svo. 9s. REJECTED ADDRESSES. By Horace and James Smith. Woodcuts. Fcap. Svo. Is. ART OF TRAVEL. By Francis Galton. Woodcuts. Post 8vo. 7s. 6d. A MANUAL op SCIENTIFIC ENQUIRY, for the Use of Travellers. Maps, There are others of similar character near Penistone (Bte. To), and tiom theS pecnhar character it has been suggested that they are rather temples than places for defence. They are surrounded % a mound and an inner trench. The arrangement m the great circle at Abury is the same • and many stone circles in Scotland (especially m Abeideenshne _ see Col. Forbes Leslie’s ‘Early Paces of Scotland ) are placedL wit m similar mounds. In most of these cases the trench is on the inner side of the mound. There are no upright stones and no traces of their former existence within the Yorkshire circles. _ Of British camps the most remarkable is perhaps Almondbury, neai Huddersfield (Ete. 36), which, however, shows evident marks of Eoman occupation. It is perhaps noticeable that very few traces of stiom, British camps exist in Yorkshire, except on the south-eastern border, —as at Wincobank, Ete. 44; Mexborough, Rte. 39 ; and perhaps Con- ingsborough, Ete. 39. On the other hand, few parts of England con- tafn such numerous and extensive dykes and earthworks The wolds and the skirts of the hills, on the N side of the Vale of Picker- mo- are covered with these entrenchments. (See Ete. 10.) I he most extensive works of this class are between Sheffield and Mexborough on the ridge of lulls 1. of the Don (Bte. 44), and between Cattenck Z the Swale and Gainibrd on the Tees. (Bte. 24. These latter have been most carefully examined and planned by Mr. Maclachlan, at the cost of the late Duke of Northumberland. See his paper m the Journal of the Archseol. Institute, vol. vi.) The Wold Dykes are hardly less important. The Dane s’ Dyke, at Flamborough (Ete. 11), cuts off the entire promontory. It is evident that all these entrenchments were constructed for defence, and that they formed at different times the boundary-lines of the races who raised them. But their date is by no means so clear; and perhaps all that can be said with certainty is that they are pre-Eoman. Introd. Antiquities. xsix § XXYIII.— Homan and Anglian. The most important Homan re¬ mains in Yorkshire are the Multangular Tower at York (Ete. 1), and the numerous relics at Aldhorough, the ancient Isurium (Ete. 18). At' Gatterick Bridge (Ete. 24) are traces of the station of Cataractonium ; and some remains, found on the site, are preserved in the neighbouring Brough Hall. The outline of the Eoman station is traceable at Old Malton (Ete. 10), and a (probably) Eoman bridge exists near Tadcaster (Calcaria, Ete. 42). Yorkshire was covered with Eoman roads. Many Eoman relics—altars, inscribed stones, sepulchral urns, personal orna¬ ments, and weapons—will be found in the museums at York, Leeds, Scarborough, and Whitby. (A map of British and Eoman Yorkshire, in which the sites of British villages, earthworks and stone monuments, Eoman stations, and the lines of Eoman road are carefully marked, was prepared by Mr. Newton for the meeting of the Archeological Institute at York in 1846. It is to be had at the office of the Institute.) Of the Anglian and Danish period the most evident relics are the names of places and the local dialects. Fine and interesting remains have been found in tombs of this period, as well heathen as Christian, Some of these are preserved in the public museums, and need not be particularly described here. Parts of churches, apparently of earlier date than the Conquest, are noticed in the following section. § XXIX.— Mediaeval. Yorkshire is especially rich in both ecclesias¬ tical and military architecture. Other counties can perhaps show more important domestic buildings, but some of the Yorkshire castles are of high interest, and no part of England contains more important monastic remains. Those of the great Cistercian abbeys are indeed unequalled in Europe. § XXX.—Of the churches the following deserve notice. The most important are marked by an asterisk. Saxon. —*Kirkdale, portal with inscription, Ete. 17; *Kirk Hamer- ton, tower, S. side and E. end, Ete. 19 ; Skipwith, lower part of tower, Ete. 1; * Aldhorough, inscription and fragments from earlier church, Ete. 5. There are also fragments and sculptured crosses, all of which are probably more ancient than the Conquest and all of great interest, in the crypt at Lastingham, Ete. 12 ; at Hauxwell, Ete. 22 ; at Wensley, Ete. 23 ; at Hackness, Ete. 10; at Ilkley, Ete. 29; at Bedale, Ete. 22; and at Dewsbury, Ete. 36. Norman. —Campsall, portions, Ete. 1; *Birkin, Ete. 1; St. Denis, Walmgate, York, rich portal, Ete. 1; St. Margaret’s, Walmgate, York, portal,"Ete. 1; Fishlake, portal, Ete. 2; *Selby, parts of nave, Ete. 4; Brayton, Ete. 4; Goodmanham, portions, Ete. 9; Bubwith, chancel arch, Ete. 9; Hackness, portions, Ete. 10; Eudstone, tower, Ete. 11; Pickering, portions, Ete. 12; *Lastingham, crypt, Ete. 12; Whorlton, portions, Ete. 13; Alne, portal, Ete. 15; Feliskirk (rebuilt), Ete. 15 ; Northallerton, parts, Ete. 15; Hornby, Ete. 22; Spennithorne, parts, Ete. 22; *Adel, Ete. 27; Leathley, E. Norm, tower, Ete. 29; Conis- ton, Ete. 30; Coningsborough, Ete. 39; *Bardsey, Ete. 42; Thorpe Salvin, late Norm, portal, Ete. 46. XXX Introcl. Transition. —Arksey, portions, Ete. 1; *Kirkburn, Rte. 6 ; St. Mary, Scarborough, parts, Ete. 10; * Filey, portions, Ete. 11; Baskelf, parts, Ete. 15 ; *Ripon Minster, transepts and part of choir, Ete. 21; Wragby, Ete. 37. It is evident that church-building must have been very general in Yorkshire throughout the century that followed the devastation of the country by the Conqueror. The character of the Yorkshire-Norman agrees rather with that found in the great churches of eastern England,— Ely, Peterborough, and Norwich,—than with that in the W., as seen either at Gloucester or at Hereford. It is plain and massive; sometimes with enriched portals, but generally with little elaborate ornament. The small churches which retain their original ground-plan deserve especial notice. Such are Adel and Kirkburn, both more ornamented than usual. Birkin is hardly less interesting, though it has had some additions of later date. Early English. —*York Minster, transepts, Ete. 1; *Skelton, Rte. 1; *Nun Monkiton, Rte. 1; *Snaith, W. front, Ete. 3; Hemingborough, por¬ tions, Rte. 4; *Hedon, choir and transepts, Rte. 5; *Beverley Minster, eastern portions, Rte. 6; Bubwith, nave arcade, Ete. 9; *01d Malton, Priory church, Rte. 10; Hackness, parts, Ete. 10; Scalby, Ete. 10; Filey, parts, Rte. 11; Hunmanby, nave arcade, Rte. 11; ^Bridlington, parts, Ete. 11; Lastingham, Rte. 12; Northallerton, parts, Rte. 15; Ampleforth, parts, Ete. 17; Helmsley, parts, Rte. 17 ; Kirkdale, parts, Ete. 17; Slingsby, Ete. 17; Goldsborough, Rte. 19; Knaresborough, parts, Ete. 19; *Eipon Minster, W. front, Ete. 21; Wath, Ete. 21; Hauxwell, portions, Ete. 22; Wensley, choir, Rte. 23; Askrigg, parts, Ete. 23 ; Almondbury, chancel, Ete. 36 ; Towton, parts, Rte. 42. The E. E. of York, Eipon, and Beverley ranks with the finest in the kingdom. The churches of Skelton and Nun Monkton are especially interesting, and the latter has some unusual design. As a rule, the E. E. of Yorkshire is distinguished by no marked peculiarities. Decorated. —*York Minster, nave and chapter-house, Rte. 1; Fish- lake, parts, Ete. 2; *Selby, choir, Early, Rte. 4; *Howden (all but tower and chapter-house), Ete. 4; *Holy Trinity, Hull, transepts and choir, Rte. 4; *Hedon, nave, Early, Rte. 5; *Patrington, Rte. 5; *Be- verley Minster, nave, Ete. 6 ; *St. Mary’s, Beverley' chancel, Rte. 6; *8116119: Hutton, Ete. 10; Flamborough, Ete. 11; *Bridlington, parts, Ete. 11; Rudstone, Ete. 11; Pickering, parts, Ete. 12 ; Whorlton, parts, Ete. 13 ; Aldborough, Ete. 18 ; Whitley, tower and nave, Ete. 19; Rip¬ ley, Rte. 20; *Ripon Minster, E. front, Ete. 21; Well, Ete. 21; *Bedale, ■ Ete. 22; Spennithorne, portions, Rte. 22; Middleham, Rte. 22; Rich¬ mond, parts, Rte. 24; Wycliffe, Rte. 25; Methley (of no great interest but for the Waterton chantry, which is Perp.), Ete. 27; Otley, Ete. 29; llkley, Rte. 29 ; Wakefield, tower and spire, Rte. 37; *Thornhill, chancel and aisles, Ete. 38; *Darton (late), Rte. 39; *Darfield (very late), Ete. 40; *Eoyston (late), Ete. 40; Penistone (late), Rte. 43; *Silkstone (late), Rte. 43. Of Decorated work, Howden, Hedon, Patrington, the choir of Selby, Introcl. XXXI Antiquities. parts of Beverley Minster, and of St. Mary’s, Beverley, are very fine ex¬ amples. The use of a peculiar pointed ornament (a form of ball-flower) may be noted as unusual in the S. of England; and there is a tendency in the smaller churches to use the discontinuous impost, in which the arch-mouldings die into the pier. The group of Late Dec. churches in S. Yorkshire—Darton, Darfield, Royston, Penistone, and Silkstone— deserves special notice. Perpendicular. —Campsall (with Perp. roodloft and inscription), Rte. 1; *Bolton Percy, Rte. 1; Work Minster, choir and presbytery, Rte. 1; St. Michael le Belfry, York, Rte. 1; St. Martin’s, Coney Street, York, Rte. 1; Hemingborough, portions, Rte. 4; *Howden, tower and chapter- house, Rte. 4; *Holy Trinity, Hull, nave, Rte. 4; Winestead, Rte. 5; Aldborough, Rte. 5 ; *Beverley Minster, N. porch and W. front, Rte. 6 ; St. Mary’s, Beverley, nave, Rte. 6; *South Skirlaugh chapel, Rte. 7; Brid¬ lington, W. front, Rte. 11; *Thirsk, Rte. 15; *Coxwold, Rte. 17; Brafferton, Rte. 18; Ripon Minster, nave, Rte. 21; Tanfield (portions), Rte. 21; Wensley, nave, Rte. 23; *Catterick, Rte. 24; Richmond, Rte. 24; *Methley, Waterton chantry, Rte. 27; Whitkirk, Rte. 27; *Hare- wood, Rte. 28; Skipton, Rte. 29; Kirkby Malham, Rte. 31; Giggles- wick, Rte. 31; *Bolton-by-Bolland, Rte. 32 ; Kildwick, Rte. 33; Brad¬ ford, Rte. 34; ^Halifax (parish ch.), Rte. 35 ; Almondbury, nave with inscription, Rte. 36 ; Wakefield, Rte. 37; Tad caster, Rte. 42 ; Spofforth, Rte. 42 ; *Sheffield, St. Peter’s, Rte. 43; *Rotherham, Rte. 44 ; *Eccles- field, Rte. 45 ; *Tickhill, Rte. 46. The choir and presbytery of York Minster were probably among the earliest Perpendicular works of importance completed in England. They greatly influenced subsequent building and design in Yorkshire. The great breadth of the chancel and the squared eastern end, with aisles terminating parallel with the retrochoir, are marked features of York, and recur on a smaller scale in many parish churches. Of Modern churches it will be proper to mention St. Peter’s, at Leeds (Rte. 37) ; St. George’s, Doncaster (Rte. 1), and All Souls, Haley Hill, Halifax (Rte. 35), both ranking among the finest works of Mr. G. G. Scott; Baldersby, a very striking church by Mr. Butterfield (Rte. 21), and Escrick, F. C. Penrose, architect (Rte. 1). § XXXI.—The Monastic Pemains of Yorkshire must of course be studied in connection with the churches, the architecture of which they in many cases influenced. Those here mentioned are in ruins. The churches of such monasteries as were retained are included in the former section. Benedictine. —St. Mary’s, York (Rte. 1), E. E.; Whitby (Rte. 12), E. E. and Dec. Cistercian. —Kirkham (Rte. 10), E. E. and Dec. (fragments); By¬ land (Rte. 17), Tr.-Norm. and E. E.; Rievaulx (Rte. 17), Norm, and E. E.; Fountains (Rte. 21), Tr.-Norm. and E. E. (the most perfect in ground-plan and in actual remains); Jervaulx (Rte. 22), Tr.-Norm. and E. E.; Kirkstall (Rte. 28), Tr.-Norm.; Sawley (Rte. 32), little but xxxii Antiquities. Introd. ground-plan and foundations, 12th cent.; Roche (Rte. 46), Tr.-Norm. and Dec. Augustinian Canons.- —Guisborough (Rte. 13), E. Dec., little except E. window of church remaining; Bolton (Rte. 29), Dec. and E. E. Premonstratensian Canons. —Coverham (Rte. 22), Dec. and Perp.; Easby (Rte. 24), Tr.-Norm. and E. E.; Eggleston (Rte. 25), E. E. and Dec. Carthusian. —Mount Grace (Rte. 15), Perp. Cluniac. —Monk Bretton (Rte. 39), E. E. and Dec. The remains of St. Leonard’s Hospital, York (Norm, and E. E.), and St. Anthony’s Hospital, York (Perp.), should also be mentioned. The various monastic remains have been described so fully in their different routes, that nothing need be added here. The ground-plans of Fountains, of Jervaulx, and of Sawley, have at different times been carefully ex¬ amined. The original design for Fountains, and perhaps for Kirkstall, was no doubt brought from Clairvaux; and some foreign peculiarities are traceable, especially in the W. porch and front of the church at Fountains. § XXXII.—The Castles of Yorkshire deserve more complete study and examination than they have hitherto received. They are— Clifford’s Tower, York (Rte. 1), Edwardian; Wressel (Rte. 4), Perp.; Sheriff Hutton (Rte. 10), Perp.; Keep of Scarborough (Rte. 10), late Norm.; Pickering (Rte. 12), Edwardian; Danby (Rte. 13), Perp.; Gate¬ house of Whorlton (Rte. 13), Perp.; Gil ling (Rte. 17), now chiefly domestic, but with Edwardian portions; Helmsley (Rte. 17), E. E. and Edw. II.; Knaresborough (Rte. 19), Edw. III.; Snape (Rte. 21),—now domestic,—late Perp. and Eliz.; Tanfield (Rte. 21), Perp. fragment; Middleham (Rte. 22), Norm, with Perp. outer walls; Bolton (Rte. 22), Rich. II.; Richmond (Rte. 24), Norm.; Barnard Castle (Rte. 25), Ed¬ wardian ; Bowes (Rte. 25), late Norm.; Pontefract (Rte. 27), Norm, and Edwardian; Harewood (Rte. 28), Edwardian; Barden Tower (Rte. 29), late Perp.; Skipton (Rte. 29), Edwardian and Hen. VIII.; Conings- borough (Rte. 39), Norm.; Spofforth (Rte. 42), Tr.-Norm. ranging to 15th cent.; Tickhill (Rte. 46), Perp. Of these the Norman keeps of Scarborough, Richmond, and Conings- borough are of great interest; and nearly all retain portions which deserve attention. The Gatehouse of Whorlton is an excellent and most perfect example, temp. Rich. II. § XXXIII.—Yorkshire is not so rich in Domestic Architecture as might be expected from the great size of the county, though it contains some important examples. The best are— Burton Agnes (Rte. 6), Jas. I.; Burton Constable (Rte. 7), various dates, chiefly Jas. I. and Chas. I.; Howsham Hall (Rte. 10), Eliza¬ bethan ; Campsall Vicarage (Rte. 1), late E. E. or E. Dec.; Slingsby (Rte. 17), Chas. I. (in ruins); Ripley Castle (Rte. 20), Philip and Mary; Temple Newsam (Rte. 27), Chas. I.; Markenfield (Rte. 21), Dec., with 15th and 16th cent, additions; Bolton-by-Bolland (Rte. 32), Edwardian Introrl. Besources and Manufactures. xxxiii in parts; Browsholme (Rte. 33), Hen. YIT.; Bowling Hall (Rte. 34), Eliz. with earlier towers; Woodsome Hall (Rte. 36), Hen. YI1I., re- fronted 17th cent.; Ledsham Hall (Rte. 41), Jas. I. Castle Howard (Rte. 10), by Yanbrugh; Duncombe Park (Rte. 17), built from Yanbrugh’s designs; and Harewood (Rte. 28), by Carr of York, must also be mentioned here. Resources and Manufactures. § XXXIV.—Of the natural productions of Yorkshire, the extent and importance of which have assisted so largely in raising the county to its present position, the chief are iron and coal. These require a longer notice. Others which may here be briefly mentioned are lead, worked very extensively in Swaledale (Rte. 24) and in Nidderdale (Rte. 20) ; Avhere it was certainly worked by the Romans, and where the lead-mines have probably never since been entirely neglected; jet, procured in con¬ siderable quantities from the cliffs near Whitby (Rte. 12) ; alum, found in the same district (an alum-work, at Sandsend, is described Rte. 12) ; the excellent building-stone from the Tadcaster (Rte. 42) and Huddle- stone (Rte. 41) quarries; and the Mach and grey marble , found in such vast quantities throughout Mdderdale and Dentdale. The staple manufactures of Yorkshire are woollen and worsted. Of these a longer account must be given. § XXXY.— Iron. The ironstones of the coal-measures have been worked in Yorkshire from a very early period. There is evidence that the Romans had discovered their value and had smelted them. The working of these beds—the black-band and clay-band ironstones of the coal-measures, which occur in thin layers associated with coal-seams, shales, clays, and sandstones—has never been altogether neglected, and until very recently the chief supply of English iron was derived from them. The most important works in connection with these ironstones are in the neighbourhood of Bradford,—at Low Moor and at Bowling. (See Rte. 34.) These ironstones, which “ partake more or less of the laminated or bedded structure of the strata with which they are associated ” (E. Bill), are of course not so rich as the true iron ores of Lancashire, Cumber¬ land, the Mendip Hills, and elsewhere. It is only from the ores that Bessemer steel can be made. But the largest supply is afforded by the ironstones; and about the year 1850, when many of the principal beds in the coal-measures were found to be rapidly exhausting, and some anxiety was felt in consequence (since the demand for iron was every year increasing), an enormous addition w T as made to our resources by the discovery of the “New Iron-fields of England,” which occupy a broad belt of country almost from the shores of the English Channel to those of the German Ocean. The Cleveland Hills in the N.E. corner of Yorkshire form the most important portion of this belt, the whole of which is most carefully described in a paper by Mr. Edward Hull, F.G.S., in the ‘ Quarterly Journal of Science,’ July, 1866. The following extracts are from this paper;—- Resources and Manufactures. Introcl. The entire belt “ is formed of a range of hills with scarped ridges and longitudinal valleys, rising to the eastward above the plains of the central counties. In this range are included geologically the Cleveland Hills of Yorkshire and the Cotteswold Hills of Gloucester and Somer¬ set ; but it must not be supposed that the strata are equally rich in iron all along the entire range, although the representative formations in which the iron occurs may be present throughout. The range at several points, both in Yorkshire and Gloucestershire, reaches elevations exceeding 1000 ft. above the sea, and terminates in the coast-cliffs of Saltburn on the N. and those of Lyme Regis on the S. It is composed of jurassic formations,'—or speaking more definitely, the upper members of the lias and the lower members of the oolite series. From the base of the range the lower lias and new red marl stretch away in slightly undulating plains towards the W.” . . . The ironstones occur in 2 posi¬ tions : the lower at the top of the middle lias or marlstone, the upper at the base of the great oolite. “ The latter, however, is almost exclusively confined to Northamptonshire; and by far the most important mem¬ ber is the middle lias ironstone of the counties of York, Lincoln, and Oxford.” The ironstone of the Cleveland Hills, like that of the Yorkshire coal- measures, was not unknown to the Romans, and had been worked by them in several places. The monks of Rievaulx and of Whitby had also worked it; and it had also been quarried and smelted in Rhosdale in the 12th cent, (see Rte. 12); but it had been entirely neglected in modern times, and the vast extent of it was altogether unknown, when Mr. Yaughan, in 1850, made the discovery of the seam of ironstone lying under Eston Moor. (See Rte. 16.) From that time the ironstone has been worked in different parts of the district with increasing profit and importance. Smelting-houses have been erected in great numbers on either side of the Tees; the town of Middlesborough has arisen as the “ metropolis ” of the trade; “ and in 1865 the whole district com¬ prised 105 furnaces in blast, smelting very nearly 1,000,000 tons of pig- iron.”-— E. Hull. The vertical section of the formations as they occur near Saltburn is thus given by Mr. Hull. Thickness. ft. in. Great oolite .. Yellowish sandy oolitic freestone .. 30 0 Upper lias Dark blue bituminous shales. 150 0 Middle lias or 1. Nodular ironstone, with a thin band marlstone of iron pyrites. 0 3 2. Solid greyish-green ironstone 12 0 3. Sandy and rusty shales . 12 0 4. Second bed of ironstone resembling “ clay-band,” with 30 per cent, of iron. 3 0 5. Sandy shales and sandstone 80 0 Lower lias Blue shales and clay . Introd. XXXV Resources and Manufactures. “ The upper bed of ironstone is alone worked. ... It is of a greyish- green colour, finely oolitic in structure, and weathers into rusty concre¬ tionary hands and nodules. ... In general it is considered that 3 tons of the raw ore produce 1 ton of pig-iron.” “ The Cleveland ironstone becomes thinner and is leaner towards the 8., but, as the quality of the iron is good, it is extensively worked in the valley of the Esk near Whitby, the new line from Picton to Whitby giving access to the Durham coal-field. The stone is also largely worked along the sea-coast from Whitby to Redcar, and is shipped chiefly to the iron-works on the Tyne.” The Rosedale ironstone is the richest ol all the Cleveland ores. Its colour is dark olive green, it has a high specific gravity, is compact, magnetic, and polar. It contains from 35'94 to 49T7 per cent, of metallic iron, and is smelted by itself at Ferry Hill, but is chiefly used for mixing with the other ore in the Cleveland furnaces. In 1864 nearly 300,000 tons were quarried and carried to market by a special branch railway. Continuing the survey southward, we find the ironstone of the lias cropping out in the direction of Northallerton and Thirsk, and trending thence in a south-easterly course by Easing wold, Hutton, and Market Weigh ton to the Humber. The dip is here a little N. of E., and there are extensive tracts where it has not as yet been opened out.” Ironstones in the same formation are being worked in Lincolnshire, in Oxfordshire, and elsewhere. The quality of iron “ is confessedly infe¬ rior to that derived from the coal-measures, still more to that from the haematites of Ulverstone and Furness; but for ordinary purposes and for mixing with the finer classes it is of great value. It is, moreover, sup¬ plying the enormous demand of the present generation; and looking to the future, there can be no question that the Middlesborough district is destined to have no rival in any part of the world.” The processes of iron manufacture have been briefly noticed under Middlesborough (Rte. 16) and Low Moor (Rte. 34), and call for no fur¬ ther description here. (Dr. Percy’s volumes on ‘ The Metallurgy of Iron and other Metals ’ contain the best and fullest information on the subject.) The process of converting iron into steel, and the steel manufacture, has been described at full length in Rte. 43,— Sheffield ,—and need not be again noticed here. § XXXVI.— Coal. There were in Yorkshire, in 1857, 347 collieries, producing annually 8,875,440 tons of coal. The Yorkshire coal-field is, however, only a portion of a great field extending over parts of the shires of Nottingham and Derby, and forming altogether the largest coal-field in England. (That of S. Wales is 153 square miles larger in area.) There are in Nottinghamshire and Derby 194 collieries, produc¬ ing 3,687,442 tons of coal. The whole field thus supports 541 collieries, producing annually 12,562,882 tons of coal. The eastern boundary of the entire field “ is the escarpment of the magnesian limestone, with its subordinate lower Permian strata, which, xxxvi Resources and Manufactures. Introcl. commencing near Nottingham, extends northward beyond the limits of the coal-field itself. Upon reaching the crest of the escarpment, you find yourself on the edge of a table-land resembling that of the oolite of Gloucestershire, but less lofty. One point of this ridge is crowned by the turrets of Bolsover Castle. The southern boundary is new red sandstone, and the strata rise and crop out westward as far N. as Brad¬ ford and Leeds, where they bend round to the E. and finally disappear under the magnesian limestone, which passes over and rests directly on the millstone grit. The greatest length of the coal-field from S. to N. is 66 miles, and its breadth varies from 5 to 20 miles. Though the general dip of the strata is eastward, there generally occurs along the centre of the field a gentle undulation which for a certain distance pro¬ duces a westerly dip; but the strata always roll over when approaching the base of the Permian rocks. The coal-seams are only occasionally broken by faults.” “ To the westward the lower carboniferous series rise into the lofty ranges of the Pennine chain, forming a natural division between the counties of Stafford and Lancashire on the W., and Nottingham and Yorkshire on the E., as well as their respective coal-fields. In fact, the upheaval of the lower carboniferous rocks has rent asunder a coal-field which originally stretched across from Stafford and Cheshire to Notting¬ hamshire and Yorkshire. The loftiest escarpment of this central chain is Mickle Fell, formed of millstone grit, 2600 ft., and the carboniferous limestone of Derbyshire reaches an elevation of 2533 ft.” “ In Derbyshire the principal coals are the ‘ Top hard ’ and ‘ Lower hard ’ seams, producing the valuable splint-coal; and in Yorkshire the most remarkable are the ‘ Silkstone ’ and ‘ Barnsley Thick coals.’ The former is undoubtedly identical with the ‘ Arley Mine ’ of Lancashire, and thus this fine bed of coal, which seldom exceeds 5 ft. in thickness, has originally spread over a tract embracing not less than 10,000 square miles! In the lower coal-measures, or Gannister beds, one or more of the coals, with their roofs of black shale filled with Aviculo-pecten papyra- ceus, Goniatites, Posidonia, &c., can be identified with those which range over N. Lancashire; all of which facts go to prove the original continuity of these great coal-fields.”— Hull’s ‘Coal-fields of Great Britain,’ London, 1861. The Yorkshire coal-beds abound in fossil ferns, lepidodendra, and sigillarias; and among the deposits of this period are sandstone strata in which the stems of trees stand erect. Roots of trees also are extended in their natural positions beneath several of the coal-seams. “ The coal-beds are certainly composed of terrestrial plants, probably accumu¬ lated round the trees and above their roots, often by the agency of water, which has left parts of its living tenants even in the substance of the coal, as the defensive fin-bones of cartilaginous fishes (Gyracan- thus), and estuary shells (Unionid®).”— Phillips. 17 species of fish (placoid and ganoid), 5 cephalopods, 17 conchifers and brachiopods, and 1 of the Crustacea— Cy there (cypris)—have been reckoned in the York- ' shire coal-measures. Fish remains occur plentifully in the roofing Introd. Besources and Manufactures. xxxvii shale of some of the coal-beds; so plentifully at Middleton, that the miners call it “ fish-coal.” There are very good collections] of fossils from the coal-measures in the museums at York, at Leeds, at Scar¬ borough, and at Whitby. The Yorkshire coal-field contains many courses of ironstone, which are worked in different places,—most extensively in the neighbourhood of Bradford, at Low Moor, and Bowling. The blast-furnaces supplied by this stone yield annually about 96,200 tons of pig-iron. Estimating the area of the entire coal-field (not including the portion under the magnesian limestone) at 760 square miles, Mr. Hull con¬ cludes that at the present rate of consumption the coal it contains will last about 700 years. § XXXVII.—As Lancashire is the great seat of the cotton manu¬ facture, Yorkshire is the centre of the woollen trade. Some cotton- mills (especially in the Todmorden valley), and more silk and flax factories are to be found in parts of the W. Biding (flax and linen factories are very numerous at Leeds and at Barnsley); but wool in its various forms is still the main source of the wealth of manufacturing Yorkshire. The woollen trade has two grand divisions: doth or woollen properly so called, and worsted. Leeds is the capital of the cloth manu¬ facture, which is carried on for the most part in that town and in the surrounding district. Bradford is the great worsted mart of the county. Cloth or woollens are made from short wool, worsteds from long wool. It has been thought that the wool of the sheep in its natural and pri¬ mitive state was more probably long than short, and therefore that the most ancient woollen fabrics had rather the character of worsted than of cloth. However this may, be, it is certain that the fabrication of wool into clothing is one of the most ancient of human arts; and not less certain that 'in Yorkshire cloth manufacture long preceded the making of worsted fabrics, which was not introduced into the county until the middle of the 17th cent. The name “ worsted ” is probably derived from the town of Worsted, in Norforlk, which certainly ex¬ isted before the Conquest, and in which, at an early period, Flemish weavers settled and introduced the manufacture. (Comp, similar de¬ rivations from Cambrai (cambric), Arras, Calicut (calico), and others.) A ‘ History of the Worsted and Woollen Manufactures,’ in 2 vols., by Mr. James Bischoff, was published in 1842; and in 1857, Mr. James published an excellent and exhaustive ‘ History of the Worsted Manu¬ facture.’ These are the chief authorities on the subject. § XXXVIII.—Wool was exported from this island during the later Roman period; and woollen fabrics were no doubt manufactured here long before colonies of Flemings, driven from their own country by a destructive inundation, were settled by the Conqueror and afterwards by Hen. I. in parts of England and of S. Wales (Pembrokeshire). But these Flemings were the first great “ clothiers ” in England, and their trade was largely increased by Edw. III., who induced fresh bodies of Flemish weavers to settle in this country. “ Happy,” says Fuller, who breaks off his ‘ Church History ’ to commemorate the arrival of these xxxviii Besources and Manufactures. Introd. strangers, “ the yeoman’s house into which one of these Dutchmen did enter, bringing industry and wealth along with them. Such who came in strangers, within doors, soon after went out bridegrooms and returned sons-in-law, having married the daughters of their landlords who first entertained them; yea, those yeomen in whose houses they harboured soon proceeded gentlemen, gaining them estates to themselves, arms and worship to their estates.” Under the teaching of these profitable strangers, the cloth trade spread extensively throughout the southern and western counties of England. Bristol and its neighbourhood was one very important centre; Norwich and the eastern counties was an¬ other ; and there was a third in Devonshire, of which Exeter and Credi- ton were the chief towns. A good specimen of the wealthy English clothier was “ Jack of Newberry,”—John Winchcomb of Newberry, in Berkshire—who kept 100 looms in his house, and marched 100 of his own men to Flodden Field, armed and clothed at his own expense. Long before this the woollen manufacture had extended into Yorkshire; and in the reign of Hen. VII. had become of some importance in that county, especially at Wakefield, Leeds, and Halifax. But as yet it was only the coarser kind of cloth that was made in the north; and the manufacture of the various kinds of worsted fabrics, the great centre of which had from the beginning been Norwich and the eastern counties, was not introduced into Yorkshire until the end of the 17th cent. From that time, however, both' woollen and worsted manufactures increased steadily in the W. Biding, and (chiefly from the end of the last cent.) have been developed there to such an extent as to leave all other parts of England far behind. The worsted trade of Norwich is still important; and there are still considerable factories of cloth in Gloucestershire and elsewhere, but there is no competition with York¬ shire. “ The S.W. portion of Yorkshire,” says Mr. James, “possesses, beyond all rivalry, more natural advantages as a manufacturing district than any other in the kingdom, having in abundance, and of the best quality, those three grand requisites—water, coal, and ironstone. Inter¬ sected by small valleys, it abounds in rills, brooks, and rivers, excel¬ lently adapted either for the working of mills by water-power, or for the use of the 1 great iron servant of nations,’—the steam-engine. . . . Add to these essentials that the rivers could easily be made navigable, and canals formed for the transit of goods ; that the district is central, and, what is of paramount importance, that the people are industrious and persevering, of indomitable energy of character, delighting in busi¬ ness, neither shunning labour nor fearing difficulties in the prosecution of their enterprises, and one may comprehend how the manufacture has obtained in such a spot, among such a people, a mighty growth, and become one of the wonders of "this progressive age.”— History of the Worsted Manufacture. § XXXIN.—It was about the middle of the last cent, that skill and science began to develop the great resources of south-western Yorkshire, and that that long series of inventions commenced which has been car¬ ried to such admirable perfection, and has entirely changed the charac- Introcl. xxxix Resources and Manufactures. ter of the trade. Dyer’s poem of ‘ The Fleece ’ was published in 1757, and in it he describes the first factory (as it would seem) in which the different processes of the woollen manufacture were brought into one building. This factory, in the Yale of Calder, had been built for a parish workhouse. “ Behold in Calder’s vale, where wide around Unnumber’d villas creep the shrubby hills, A spacious dome for this fair purpose rise. High o’er the open gates with gracious air Eliza’s image stands. By gentle steps Upraised, from room to room we slowly walk, And view with wonder and with silent joy The sprightly scene; where many of busy hand, Where spoles, cards, wheels, and looms, with motion quick And ever-murmuring sound, the unwonted sense Wrap in surprise.”. The whole district was at this time alive with the cloth manufacture. Dyer proceeds— .“ Take we now an eastward course To the rich fields of Birstal. Wide around Hillock and valley, farm and village smile; And ruddy roofs and chimney-tops appear Of busy Leeds, upwafting to the clouds The incense of thanksgiving ; all is joy, And trade and business guide the living scene. Boll the full cars adown the winding Aire, Load the slow-sailing barges, pile the pack On the long tinkling train of the slow-paced steeds.” Factories, however, did not become general until the end of the cent.; and it was some time before the first spinning-machines, used origin¬ ally for spinning cotton, were applied to spinning wool. Before they were brought into use the wool was spun in different parts of the country, especially in Craven and in the dales between Skipton and Richmond. “'The W. Riding (worsted) manufacturer had not only to visit the villages in the immediate neighbourhood of Halifax, Bradford, &c., but used periodically to traverse the romantic hills and dales of Craven. Here at each village he had his agents, who received the wool, distributed it among the peasantry, and received it back as yarn. The machine employed was still the old one-thread wheel; and in summer weather, on many a village green or hill-side, might be seen the house¬ wives plying their busy trade and furnishing to the poet the vision of “ Contentment spinning at his cottage-door.” Returning in safety with his yarn, the manufacturer had now to seek out his weavers, who ulti¬ mately delivered to him his camblets, or russels, or serges, or tammies, or calimancoes (such were then the names of the leading fabrics), ready for sale to the merchant or delivery to the dyer.”— James, History of the Worsted Manufacture. The development of the factory system has, it need hardly be said, Introcl. 7 j Resources and Manufactures . entirely changed all this. Resources of all kinds in the material em¬ ployed as well as in the most complicated and admirable machinery- have, since the beginning of the present cent., been brought to hear on the worsted and woollen trades; and there are probably no establish¬ ments in the world where the means are more nicely proportioned to the ends, where the arrangements are more perfect, or where the whole process of manufacture may be more advantageously studied, than the great factories of Leeds, Bradford, and Halifax, or the wonderful manu¬ facturing “ palace ” of Saltaire. Some description of these, and especi¬ ally of Saltaire, will be found in the routes to which they belong. A short general notice of the various processes used in the manufacture of woollens and worsteds may however be useful. § XL.—In the manufacture of cloths or ivoollens the processes are (those marked with an asterisk are performed by machinery)— 1. Sorting; 2. Scouring or washing; 3. Dyeing (when wool-dyed) ; 4. * Willy ing or twilling; 5. Picking or moating, 6. Oiling; 7. Scrib¬ bling ; 8. *Carding ; 9. *Slubbing ; 10. ^Spinning ; 11. *Reeling; 12. Warping; 13. *Sizing; 14. * Weaving; 15. Scouring; 16. Dye¬ ing (when piece-dyed) ; 17. Burling ; 18. *Pulling or felting; 19. Scouring; 20. Tenter-drying; 21. *Raising or teazling; 22. Shear¬ ing; 23. *Brushing; 24. Picking-drawing; *25. Pressing; 26. Pack¬ ing. (The extracts are from Bischoff’s ‘History of Wool and Woollens,’ where they are quoted from an article in the latest edition of the Encyc. Britann.) After the wool has been sorted and scoured, first in ley and after¬ wards in running water, so as to cleanse it from grease and all impurity, it is dyed—if intended for the making of wool-dyed cloth. (All cloth, except white, is either wool or piece-dyed.) It is then placed in the loillying machine (the name is said to be a corruption of “ winnow ” or “ winnowing,” since this is the office it performs). This is “ a revolving cone, armed with 4 rows of iron spikes, strongly fixed in 4 longitudinal bars fastened to 3 concentric wheels of different diame¬ ters.This cone revolves at the rate of from 300 to 500 revolu¬ tions per minute, within a casing cylinder, armed with several spikes, but placed so as to alternate with the spikes on the cone.The machine is fed by means of an endless apron, the wool entering at the smaller end, so that when most entangled it is subjected to the least motion.By the revolutions of the cylinder the wool is torn, disentangled, and cleaned, and by the gradually increasing centrifugal force it is impelled forwards toward the large end of the cone. When the wool thus reaches the base of the cone it is tossed into a chamber, where it is received upon another endless apron, moving in a direction from the machine instead of towards it. Over this apron is a cylindrical wire cage, .... and immediately over it is a revolving fan. Both these are covered and protected by sheet-iron casings, but commu¬ nicate with the chamber which receives the wool from the cone. The fan, drawing the dust out of the chamber, blows it through a chim¬ ney or pipe connected with the machine for the purpose. The cage pre- Introd, Resources and Manufactures, xli vents the escape of the wool with the dust, and by its passage over the apron it lays down the wool in a continuous fleece.” The wool is then picked or “ moated in order to remove any dirt which may not have been separated by the willy, and is afterwards oiled, 3 or 4 lbs. of oil being well mingled with 20 lbs. of wool. It is then ready for scribbling and carding ,—processes which resemble each other, the only difference being that the scribbling machine is coarser. The object of both is farther to separate and open out the fibre of the wool. “ The wool-carding engine consists of one large cylinder or card-drum, surmounted by 3 pairs of smaller cylinders called urchins, all of them covered with card-cloths armed with carding-wires. At one end is an endless feeding apron, upon which equal portions, by weight, of the oiled wool are evenly spread by hand.” The wool is distributed upon the card-drum, from which it is stripped by the smaller cylinders, and is at last removed by a larger cylinder called a “ doffer,” from which the whole is scraped off by a “ doffing ” knife. In the scribbling process the wool is wound round a revolving roller in an endless fleece, having the appearance of a fine blanket. The carding engine delivers it in narrow bands or slivers. The wool is now ready to be spun into yarn by machines. The first of them is the stubbing machine or “ stubbing billy,” in which about 60 spindles are arranged on a moveable carriage. By this machine the carded wool is joined, elongated, and slightly twisted. The stubbing thus produced has the appearance of a soft and weak thread, and is ready for the spinning jenny or the 11 mule,” which is fast superseding it. The yarn is finally prepared for weaving by the operations of reeling, warping, and suing. The weaving itself is performed either by the hand-loom or by the power-loom, the latter being chiefly used for weaving the finest and broadest cloths,—such as are 12 quarters wide in the loom. “ After the cloth comes from the loom, and before it can undergo any other' process, it is necessary to scour it, in order to get rid of the oil and size to which the wool and yarn have been subjected in the prepa¬ ratory process. This is performed at the mill in a somewhat rude machine called the stocks, consisting of a pair of wooden mallets, worked alternately by a cog-wheel. The cloth is exposed to the stroke of the mallet on an inclined trough, the end of which is curved, so that the tendency of the stroke is to turn the cloth round and round, and dif¬ ferent portions are alternately exposed to the operation of the hammers. At first soap or some other detergent is used, but at last a stream of pure water is let in upon it.” The cloth is then dried and dyed (if dyed in the piece), and is afterwards handed over to the burlers, who pick out all irregular threads, hairs, or dirt which may remain in the fabric. In order to effect this thoroughly, the cloth is examined both on the surface and through the web against a strong light. It is then ready for /idling or felting, a process in which, “ by the united opera¬ tions of beating, heat, and moisture, the minutely-jagged surfaces of the fibres of the wool are made intimately to cohere, and form not a mere xlii Introd. Resources and Manufactures. woven tissue, like cotton, flax, or silk, but a felted homogeneous mass. If a piece of cloth be cut it will not unravel; the tissue is almost lost under the thick fulled surface raised upon it, and the weaving seems less to give a character to the fabric than to impart the requisite degree of strength.” The cloth is afterwards scoured with fuller’s earth, rinsed in pure water, and hung upon tenters till it is completely dry. Then follows the operation of teazling , “ by which the loose fibres of the wool are raised to the surface, so as to form, when duly cut and sheared, the pile or nap.” The teazles are fastened into a cylinder. A piece of cloth of 40 yards consumes 3000. Teazles are grown in York¬ shire (chiefly in the neighbourhood of Leeds) and in Somersetshire, and are sold in packs of about 20,000 at (in average years) 6/. a pack. Wire has been tried instead of teazles, but has not been found to answer. The superiority of the plant arises from its tendency to break off when it meets with a knot or inequality, which wire would tear out. The pile raised by teazling is afterwards cropped or sheared. This is done by ingenious machinery, which has replaced the old hand-work. It is then brushed by cylinders fixed in a machine, is picked over to remove all defects, and is finally packed in bales for the market. § XLI.—The processes of the worsted manufacture so nearly resemble those of cloth-making that they need not be described here at any length. There is, however, one important addition. It has before been said that a long-stapled wool is used for making worsted stuffs, while short wool is manufactured into cloth. This long wool, after it has been washed, is combed, a process which was formerly performed by hand labour. It is now almost entirely done by machinery, and some very ingenious machines have been invented for the purpose. Of these the one most frequently found in use is that patented by Messrs. Lister and Donisthorpe. The advantages of machine-combing have been very decided. Wool, for which the hand-comber was paid 2s. per pound (in the pound of “ top” combed), and this exclusive of the cost of oil, soap, and charcoal, is combed by the machine at a cost of about 4 d. per pound, including oil and soap, &c. Traveller’s View and Scenery. § XLII.—The special objects of interest for the traveller in Yorkshire are the manufactures, the geology, the antiquities (including the various historical sites), and the scenery of the county. The manufac¬ tures are confined for the most part to the West Riding; and whoever may visit Yorkshire with the intention of studying them must provide himself with introductions to the heads of the principal firms. Other¬ wise he will not readily, if at all, obtain admission to the factories. Tours (see post, ‘Skeleton Tours’) which will take the traveller through the most beautiful and interesting scenery in Yorkshire, will introduce him at the same time to the most important fields of geological study, and to some of the most remarkable antiquities. The wanderer in search of the picturesque must not be sent either to the flat of Introd. Traveller's View and Scenery. xliii Holderness or to the bare chalk hills of the Wolds; although neither district is -without beauty for the true lover of nature; and the views from the border hills of the Wolds, across the great plain of York, are very fine. But the geologist will not neglect Holderness (Rte. 7), with its lacustrine deposits,—its accumulations of drift and gravel, relics of the glaciers and ice agencies that deposited here rock fragments from Norway and from the Cumbrian Alps,—and its rapidly crumbling sea- cliffs. Some very fine churches (especially Patrington and Hedon— Ete. 5) are also to be found here; and. the antiquities scattered over the whole district (nowhere very picturesque) which lies east of the Great Northern Railway from Doncaster to Milford junction (Rtes. 1, 2, 3), thence on either side of the line by Selby to Hull (Rte. 4), and thence throughout Holderness (Rtes. 5, 6, 7, 8), will amply repay examina¬ tion. On the Wolds the antiquary will find few churches worth attention; but the primaeval remains, the Rudstone pillar, the numerous and important dykes and earthworks, and the houes and tumuli that dot the hills in all directions (Rtes. 10, 11, 14), are among the most striking in Yorkshire. § XLIII.—The great extent of Yorkshire, and the various geological formations that appear on the surface of the county, afford a greater variety of natural scenery than is to be found elsewhere in England; and the only county which can at all rival it in this respect is Devon¬ shire. Much very pleasant country is to be found in the comparatively level districts of the Yale of York; the ancient Barnsdale (Rte. 1), stretching between Doncaster and Pontefract; and the rich circuit of the old forest of Elmete (Rte. 41); but the chief scenery of Yorkshire is comprised in four divisions—(1) The sea-coast; (2) The hills and moors of Cleveland and the N.E.; (3) The western mountains, ex¬ tending from Barnard Castle to Skipton in Craven, and thence round to Clitheroe in Lancashire; and (4) The .remains of the old forest of Sherwood in the neighbourhood of Sheffield, of which Wharncliffe Chase is the finest and most remarkable portion. Each of these districts has its subdivisions and its special points of interest: and the tourist with time at his command will find that some weeks may well be given to the thorough examination and enjoyment of each. For those whose days of travel are more limited, the most striking scenes in the county, and the best manner of visiting them within a short time, are described in the ‘ Skeleton Tours ’ (post). § XLIY.—The sea-coast of Yorkshire is the finest and most pic¬ turesque in England, with the exception of that of Devon and Cornwall. These western shores—especially in N. Devon the bold heights and the wooded glens opening to the sea, and in Cornwall the towering cliffs and precipices of granite and serpentine—far exceed even the finest portions of the Yorkshire coast. But on the other hand, the sea-air of the north is more bracing; and even Torquay cannot boast the many resources and amusements which Scarborough offers to the ordinary visitor. The Yorkshire watering-places, reckoning them according to their Introd. x liv Traveller’s View and Scenery. size and importance, are — Scarborough, Whitby, Bridlington, -Filey, Redear,- Saltburn, Hornsea, and. Withernsea. Scarborough and Whitby have the finest cliff scenery in their immediate neighbourhoods, and the inland country accessible from them is very pleasant and picturesque. Whitby especially has within easy reach, for drives, or for days’ excur¬ sions by railway or on foot, the fine wild scenery of the Cleveland Moors (Rtes. 12, 13). The great size of Scarborough makes it more of a “ London by the sea ” than most other watering-places; though in this respect it is as yet far from equalling Brighton; and it is infinitely superior to Brighton in the beauty and. interest of the surrounding country, and in the ease and readiness with which the true country is reached from the outskirts of the town. Whitby is far quieter and more staid; a very great recommendation to many visitors. It has long been a favourite resort of the clergy; and episcopal aprons are not rare in the season on the promenade which extends along the cliff towards Sandsend. Bridlington has no good coast scenery close at hand; but the sands are firm and level; and the grand chalk cliffs of Flamborough head are within an easy day’s walk or excursion. The Priory Church is an attraction for the antiquary; and there are a few places of interest accessible inland. Filey is quieter and more aristocratic; its broad, open bay is very beautiful; and you may ride or drive for at least five miles along the hard, firm sands. The sands, which extend from Hunt- cliff rocks to the mouth of the Tees, are the main, if not the only attrac¬ tion at Redcar; although there are some points of interest inland. Saltburn is (at present) a small, but a very pleasant, watering-place. Yery fine cliff scenery stretches away from it E.; and the wooded ravines, which here descend to the sea, are picturesque. The coast at Hornsea is flat, and the place is otherwise not very attractive. It is, however, quiet, and conveniently situated as a watering-place for the S.E. of Yorkshire. The same may be said of Withernsea, which has still fewer recommendations. In all these places the hotel accommodation is good and comfortable; and lodgings (except perhaps at Saltburn) are readily found. § XLY.—The most striking and picturesque points on the Yorkshire coast are (beginning from the S.)— Flamborough Head (Rte. 11), the extreme eastern point of the chalk in England, with the fine sea-caves in its neighbourhood. This is easily reached either from Bridlington or from Filey. Filey Brig, and the grand sweep of its bay; probably the “ well-havened bay ” or the “ bay of the Gabrantovici ” (TafipavToviKcov 6 kcu Xeyoyevos RvXigevos koXttos) of Ptolemy.—(The word “ Gabranto- vici ” has puzzled commentators. No such tribe is known, or at least is nowhere else mentioned; and it has been suggested that it may be an error for “ Brigantovici.”)—From the hill above Filey Brig the view is very fine, both towards Scarborough and towards Flamborough Head. Scarborough Castle. Staintondale Cliff, a range extending from Haiburn Wyke to the “ Old Peak,” a distance of nearly 4i m. The sea-views are magnificent, and there is a singular undercliff, interesting to Introd. Traveller’s Vieio and Scenery. xlv geologists. The High Peak, 585 ft. above the sea, and forming the S. extremity of Robin Hood’s Bay. Robin Hood’s Bay itself, very striking and well worth the artist’s attention, with wild, high ground behind it; and next, Whitby, with its ruined abbey. This coast between Scar¬ borough and Whitby is accessible from either place, and the pedestrian will do well to explore it at leisure, resting perhaps at Robin Hood’s Bay, where the village inn will be found passable. Beyond Whitby the cliffs become grander and more picturesque: the chief points are— Kettle- ness, 375 ft.; Runswick Bay, with its caverns, nearly destroyed, however, by jet-workers; Staithes, a very curious and old-fashioned fishing village, well deserving a visit, since it remains unchanged, whilst Whitby, Filey, and other ancient settlements along the coast have adopted modern improvements, and have greatly lost their original character ; Boidby Cliff (660 ft.), the loftiest precipice on the English coast; Huntcliff Nab (360 ft.); and Saltburn, with the wooded glens passing inland behind it. These long, narrow valleys, through which streams find their way to the sea from the high moors of Cleve¬ land, are very characteristic of this part of the coast. Whitby or Salt- burn are the points from which this northern coast is to be examined. Only the pedestrian, however, will be able to enjoy it thoroughly; although he may avail himself of the coaches which run in the summer between the two places. He may walk from Whitby to Boulby and return by the coach, or vice versa. § XLVI. (2.)— Cleveland and the North-Eastern Moors. This, which is entirely a mountainous district, full of the most picturesque scenery, is contained within boundary-lines which extend from Picker¬ ing nearly to the sea, north of Scarborough, thence to Whitby, thence along the base of the hills from Whitby to Gnisborough (the country between the hills and the sea is also part of Cleveland; but this, though occasionally not unpicturesque, is very distinct); from Guisborough by Stokesley, round the western bases of the Cleveland and Hambleton Hills, to the neighbourhood of Thirsk; and thence by Coxwold and Byland, round again to the neighbourhood of Pickering. The character of this great moorland district is, owing to its different geology, very distinct from that of the western mountains. It is covered in parts by thick and deep heather, which is almost entirely wanting on the limestone of the west. The ridges of high, rough moor are divided by long, narrow, winding dales, each of which has its own streamlet, and is marked by a line of bright green pasture, and some wood. Broken crags of gritstone rise here and there from the dale sides; and the contrast of their greensward and sprinkled farms, with the barren upper moors, is very striking and pleasant. The most im¬ portant of these dales are (beginning from the west) Bilsdale, Brans- dale, Farndale, Rhosdale, and the series of dales (Newtondale and others) through which the railway is carried from! Pickering to Whitby. . The boundary of Cleveland proper (the “ cliff ” or “ cleft land it is the “ Kliflond” of the‘Northmen) runs across the moors, eastward, Introcl. xlvi Traveller’s View and Scenery. nearly in a line witli Osmotherley ; and the highest point of the entire district (Burton Howe, 1419 ft.) is in this division, a little S.E. of Ingleby Greenhow. The Hambleton hills continue the moorland S. of the Clevelands; but there is scarcely any true division between the ranges. The Hambletons represent, however, the range of upper oolitic or calcareous hills which rest on the lower oolitic of Cleveland (see Rte. 12, Pickering ); and from their calcareous nature they have less heather than the others. The western ridges of both Clevelands and Hambletons command magnificent views over the great plain of York, with the hills of its western border in the distance. These vast prospects, extending over an enormous extent of the richest and most cultivated country, and seen, as they often may be, with a foreground of wild mountain, or of broken and most picturesque woodland, are almost peculiar to Yorkshire. There are views from the ridges of the Sussex Downs, and from the opposite hills of Surrey, which somewhat recall them; but they are not so extensive, and the mountainous fore¬ ground is far less grand. Some of the Dartmoor hills (especially Cawsand) command stretches of country equally vast, and the views from these more nearly resemble those in Yorkshire ; which, it should be added, are of the same general character as seen from the hills E. or W. of the plain of York. § XLVII.—The great Cleveland district may, for tourist’s purposes, be subdivided as follows:—(«.) The dales between Pickering and Whitby, with the adjoining moors on either side, (b.) The northern portion of the Cleveland hills, or Cleveland proper, (c.) The western slopes of the Clevelands and the Hambletons, from Stokesley to Thirsk. (d.) Ryedale and the southern slopes of the Hambletons; the country accessible from the line of the Thirsk and Malton railway, (e.) The mass of central moors, with their dales. The tourist who cares for thoroughly wild scenery, much of which has been but little explored, cannot do better than devote a month or six weeks to this portion of Yorkshire. (a.) The dales between Pickering and Whitby (Rte. 12) may be explored from the stations on the railway; and either Pickering or Whitby may serve as head-quarters. The most interesting points are fully noticed in Rte. 12. The Cawtliorn Camps and Lastingham (Rte. 12) may best be visited from Pickering. The moors W. of the railway are finer and more picturesque than those E.; although the latter should not be neglected. The woods and moors of Egton, Iburndale, and the moors in its neighbourhood, are easily reached from Whitby. (]>.) For exploring the northern portion of the Cleveland hills, the best stations are Whitby (Rte. 12); Castleton (Rte. 13); Guisborough (Rte. 13); and Stokesley (Rte. 13). The walk from Wliitby by Glaizedale End to Castleton (Rte. 12, Exc. 6 2) is especially to be recommended. The chief points of interest in this division are—the moors above Castleton and Westerdale, from which very fine views are commanded; Danby Beacon, with the British village near it; Danby Introd. Traveller’s View and Scenery. xlvii Castle, Rhosbery Topping, and Burton Howe above Ingleby Greenbow. All these places are described in Rte. 13, which embraces this northern border of the hills. (c.) The western slopes of the Cleveland and Hambleton hills are very picturesque, with a kind of wooded “undercliff”—a mass of tumbled hills and valleys—extending along their bases, and giving scope for the most delightful wanderings. The best centres for explora¬ tion are Stokesley; Whorl ton (the Black Horse Inn); Osmotherley (Queen Catherine Inn); Northallerton and Thirsk. The most notice¬ able points of interest are Whorlton' Church and Castle (Rte. 13); Mount Grace Priory (Rte. 15), with the grand view from the hills above it; and Whitestone Cliff, and Gormire, near Thirsk (Rte. 15). ( d .) Ryedale, which the railw-ay traverses from Thirsk to Malton, is full of interest; and there is scarcely a place noticed in Rte. 17 which will not repay a visit. The best centres are Coxwold, Helmsley, and Hovingham. From Coxwold, the tourist may visit Byland. Abbey and the hills above it; at the Gilling station he will be within reach of Gilling Castle and Ampleforth; and may proceed thence to Helmsley, where Duncombe Park and Rievaulx Abbey are close at hand. This country is also to be reached from Hovingham, where is a “ spa ” of saline water. (e.) The central moors and the dales which pierce them cannot be visited without some abandonment of the “comforts o’ the Saut Market.” Kirkby Moorside, Helmsley, and the country inns in Rlios- dale and Bilsdale, will be the tourist’s best centres; but he should remember that the remoter inns, such as those in Rhosdale and Bilsdale, are apt to be engaged beforehand, and to be well filled, in the shooting- season. Bilsdale is most easily accessible from Helmsley (Rte. 17); Bransdale and Farndale (both noticed in Rte. 13) from Kirkby Moor¬ side, or (if entered from the N.) from Castleton or Ingleby Greenhow. Rhosdale (Rte. 12) may be reached either from Kirkby Moorside, or across the moors from Pickering or Whitby. The finest views in these moors are from the high ground about Blakey Cross, between the Rhosdale ironworks and Ingleby; but all the dales afford delightful lingering ground, where the tourist may wander day after day with great enjoyment. The scenery is not so grand as that of the western mountains; but it has a charm of its own, which will be felt at once by all true lovers of the moorland and the heather. § XLVIII. (3.)— The Western Mountains. This division embraces the whole western portion of the county, and contains some very fine mountain masses, dales which are only inferior (if at all) to those of Cumberland and Westmoreland, and some of the grandest rock scenery in England. It has already been said (§ IV.) that the comparatively low region of Ribblesdale divides this group of hills into two portions, —the north-western and the south-western. It may be further sub¬ divided as follows, including the picturesque districts which form the outskirts of the higher land:— (a.) Upper Teesdale, the extreme north¬ western corner of Yorkshire, with Rokeby and the neighbourhood of xlviii Traveller’s View and Scenery. IntrocL Barnard Castle ; (jb.) Richmond and its neighbourhood—Swaledale and Arkengarthdale; (c.) Leyburn and its neighbourhood—Masham and Backfall, Wensleydale and Garsdale to Sedbergh; ( d .) Upper Wharfe- dale, and the hills forming Langstrothdale Chase; (e.) Nidderdale; (/.) Skipton and its neighbourhood—N.E. Craven, Lower Wharfedale, and Bolton Priory; ( g .) llkley and its neighbourhood; (li.) Settle and' its neighbourhood—Ribblesdale, Upper Airedale; (&.) Ingleton and its neighbourhood—Clapham Cave; ( l .) S.W. Craven, Lower Ribbles- dale, Forest of Bowland. The tourist w'ho proposes to explore all this side of Yorkshire will find that his best centres are—forjfhe N., Barnard Castle, Bichmond, Leyburn, and Hawes in Wensleydale; Pateley Bridge, for Nidderdale; and. for the S., Skipton, Settle, Clapham (there is no tolerable inn at Ingleton), and perhaps Gisburne. (Other inns in each subdivision are mentioned post.) The principal scenes may be visited in a tour extend¬ ing over ten days or a fortnight (or even less); but a month or six weeks will not be too much for any one who desires thoroughly to enjoy the country; and indeed, a whole su mm er may be spent here with advantage. The pedestrian, as usual in mountainous districts, will see most, and will find, on the whole, fewer difficulties to encounter than those who depend on horses or carriages ; but all who leave the main track must be prepared for some roughing. A skeleton tour (No. IV.), embracing the whole district, points out the chief scenes and places of interest, which all should visit. The general character of the district has been sufficiently indicated in the various routes which describe it. The limestone hills show T little heather; and are covered for the most part with a fine, short turf, excellent for walking. Scars of rock constantly enring the hills, and are specially characteristic. Other great features of these mountains are the caves and “pots” by which the limestone is pierced ; the water¬ falls, here, as in Norway, called “forces” or “fosses,” one of many proofs that Norwegian settlers penetrated into Yorkshire from West¬ moreland ; and the great rock dislocations produced by the “ Craven Fault” (§ XI.), and forming the magnificent scenery of Gordale, Malham, Attermyre, and Giggleswick. Of the caves, the two most remarkable are the stalactite cavern at Clapham, and Weathercote Cave, near Ingleton (for both see Rte. 31); the most striking water¬ falls are High Force, in Upper Teesdale (Rte. 26), one of the finest and most picturesque in England, and Hardraw Force (Rte. 23), near Hawes in Wensleydale. But every stream has its “forces” — all beautiful, and all full of attraction for the artist, who will often find his best subjects in the falls and streamlets that are least known. The mountains which most deserve to be scaled ate Ingleborough (Rte. 31), and Micklefell (Rte. 26), the highest in Yorkshire ; the finest and most characteristic of the dales is Wensleydale (Rte. 23). § XLIX.—The various subdivisions of this great district are described at length in their several routes; but each one may here be briefly noticed. Introd. Traveller's View and Scenery. yRy (a.) At Barnard Castle the tourist is within reach of the beautiful scenery on the Greta and the upper course of the Tees. (See Rtes. 25, 26.) He may take up his quarters at Middleton in Teesdale or at the High Force Inn, in order to explore Upper Teesdale. The points to be visited are Rokeby and the Greta, Eggleston Abbey, Wycliffe, Bowes, the High Force, the waterfall of Caldron Snout, and Mickle- fell. This range of country is very varied in its scenery and is full of interest. ( b .) The Richmond district is fully described in Rte. 24. Richmond itself is one of the most picturesquely placed towns in England. Swaledale is not so striking as Wensleydale; but both it and Arken- garthdale deserve exploration. There is a tolerable inn at Reeth in Swaledale; and others (very small and humble) at Muker and at Thwaite. (c.) The whole of Rte. 23 ( Leyhurn and its neighbourhood) may safely be recommended for adoption by the tourist who desires to enjoy some fine mountain scenery, and to make himself acquainted with the most characteristic of Yorkshire dales. From Leyburn, Mid- dleham (church and castle), Jervaulx Abbey, and Bolton Castle, may be visited. (Masham and Hackfall, the latter (Rte. 21) a most pic¬ turesque scene of wood and water, may also be visited from Leyburn; but are, perhaps, more readily accessible from Ripon.) At Hawes, which stands in the centre of Wensleydale, is a comfortable inn. In Wensleydale itself the scenes and places to be noticed are fully de¬ scribed in Rte. 23. (d.) For Upper Wharfedale and Langstrothdale, the tourist will find his best centres at Kilnsey, at Kettlewell, and at Buckden (Rte. 30); but here he must expect to rough it. The inns are generally clean, but they are thoroughly rustic hostelries ; and no one should venture into this district who cannot find his full reward in the wild scenery which will surround him. The country is described in Rte. 30. (e.) Nidderdale may be reached by railway from Harrogate (Rte. 20). Brimham Crags lie off the railway in the lower part of the dale. Pateley Bridge is the centre from which all the upper dale may be explored. There is some good scenery near the village; and Upper Nidderdale is quite worth exploration. The lead-mines at Green- how, and the stalactite cavern at Stump Cross, are also to be reached from Pateley Bridge. (/.) There is a very good inn at Sleipton (Rte. 29), from which place Rylstone (Rte. 30), Barden, Bolton Priory, and the lower Wharfe, may be explored. Skipton itself is interesting for its old castle of the Cliffords. ( g .) llkley (Rte. 29) abounds in hotel accommodation; and its many advantages as a centre are fully noticed in the route. . (7i.) Settle (Rte. 31) contains an excellent old-fashioned inn, and is, perhaps, the best point from which to visit Gordale and Malham Cove (Rte. 31)—scenes which no tourist should leave Yorkshire without seeing. There is a small inn at Horton, in Ribblesdale, from which the [ Yorkshire.'] 0 1 Iraveller’s View and Scenery. Introd. ascent of Penyghent (Rte. 31) may be made. Either Penyghent or Ingleborougk may, however, be climbed in a long day’s excursion from Settle. (k.) The neighbourhood of Ingleton (Rte. 31) is so interesting that it is much to be regretted that there is here no good accommodation for tourists. It may be visited from Clapham however (Rte. 31), where there is a possible inn; or by help of the railway, in long day’s excur¬ sions from Settle. (No conveyance is, however, to be hired at Ingleton; and. the expedition to Weathercote Cave, or to other places in the neighbourhood, must be made on foot, unless a carriage is brought from elsewhere.) Weathercote Cave, Thornton Force, Kingsdale, and Yordas Cave, are all within reach of Ingleton, and are all scenes of very great beauty and interest. (1.) South-West Craven (Rte. 32) may be explored from either Settle or Skipton. The accommodation at Gisburne is indifferent, but that place is nearer to the more interesting parts of the dis¬ trict. This contains much picturesque scenery, although the hills of the forest of Bowland, which form its western border, are by no means so fine as those farther north. Bolton Hall and Sawley Abbey will repay the antiquary for his visit. The interest of the latter is principally confined to its well-made-out ground-plan. § L. (4.)— The Forest district in the neighbourhood of Sheffield. This corner of Yorkshire, over which the great forest of Sherwood once extended, is very distinct in character, and should on no account be neglected by the tourist. Sheffield, Barnsley, and Rotherham are the best centres. The chief places to be visited are Wharncliffe Chase (Rte. 43), one of the finest scenes of wood and broken rock in the county ; Wentworth Castle and park (Rte. 39); and Wentworth Wood- house (Rte. 44). In these routes the district is fully described. § -kl- The most important collections of 'pictures in Yorkshire are at Castle Howard (Earl of Carlisle, Rte. 10); Duncombe Park (Lord Feversham, Rte. 17) ; Hornby Castle (Duchess of Leeds, Rte. 22); Temple Newsam (H. C. Meynell Ingram, Esq., Rte. 27) ; Gisburne Park (Lord Ribblesdale, Rte. 32); Nostel Priory (Charles Winn, Esq., Rte. 37); Wentworth Castle (F. Vernon Wentworth, Esq., Rte. 39) ; and Wentworth Woodhouse (Earl Fitzwilliam, Rte. 44). There are less extensive but valuable and interesting collections at Escrick Park (Lord Wenlock, Rte. 1) ; at Hovingham Park (Sir W. Worsley, Rte. 17) ; at Thornton-le-Street Hall (Earl Cathcart, Rte. 15); and at Brough Hall (Sir John Lawson, Rte. 24). Some portraits worth notice are "it Bolton Hall (Lord Bolton, Rte. 23) ; at Harewood (Earl of Harewood, Rte. 28); at Bolton Priory (Duke of Devonshire, Rte. 29); and at Wortley Hall (Lord Wharncliffe, Rte. 43). At Newby Hall (Lady Mary Vyner, Rte. 21) is a fine collection of ancient statuary. There is some very important statuary at Castle Howard, and at Duncombe Park. § LII.—The traveller in Yorkshire will generally find that the people, especially in the more remote districts, are, if rough, very hospitable] Introd. Traveller’s View and Scenery. li and very ready to assist him in any difficulty. The population of the great towns differs, of course, very greatly from that of the open country; hut, here too, civility will always bring civility; and the tourist who shows a real desire to examine and to understand the various manu¬ facturing processes will have (if he bring proper introductions) all possible assistance readily afforded to him. Both in town and country the dialects will often puzzle a Southerner. These differ greatly in different parts of the country ; and although glossaries have been published for many separate districts, a general survey of the Yorkshire “ speech ” still awaits the leisure and the learning of some competent northern archaeologist. Some valuable observations on this Northum¬ brian English, which Higden, writing about 1350, describes as “ so harsh and rude that we Southern men can hardly understand it” (‘Polychronicon, ap. Gale’), will he found in an essay by the late Mr. Garnett, in the ‘ Quarterly Review’ for February, 1836 (‘English Dialects ’); hut the differences between the many local dialects in the county deserve to be carefully examined and compared. The general foundation of the Yorkshire speech is no doubt Anglian, which remains most pure in the Craven district; hut this has been overlaid at different times and in different places by Danish and Norse, and perhaps by Flemish or other Low Dutch dialects. Besides Yorkshire, Northumbrian English prevails throughout Northumberland and Durham; and (with some variation) in Cumberland, Westmoreland, and Lancashire to the north of the Rihble. “ It is, as might be ex¬ pected, more like English to the south of the Tees, and more like Scotch as we approach the Tweed, but its essential peculiarities are everywhere preserved. It is unquestionably, ‘ pace Ranulphi Higdeni dixerimus,’ the most pleasing of our provincial forms of speech, especially as spoken in the North and East Ridings of Yorkshire. The Durham pronunciation, though soft, is monotonous and drawling; and that of Northumberland is disfigured by the burr and an exaggerated Scotch accent.”— Garnett. It is not every one who will agree with Mr. Garnett in this matter; but the difference between southern English and the harder northern is so marked, that the ear which has from youth been accustomed to one will hardly he able to appre¬ ciate fairly the merits of the other. Anglian, of which Northumbrian English forms one division, em¬ braces two others—the East Anglian of Norfolk and Suffolk; and the Middle Anglian of Lincolnshire, Nottinghamshire, and East Derby¬ shire. The Northumbrian of Yorkshire, in its medieval stages, is well illustrated by the works of Richard Rolle, the “ Hermit of Hampole,” who died in 1349. (See a short notice of him and of his hooks in Rte. 1); and by the very remarkable religious verses con¬ taining the Creed and the Ten Commandments, translated from the Latin, under the direction of Archbishop Thoresby (1352-1373), by John de Taystek (John of Tavistock ?), a monk of St. Marys, York, to be distributed among the people for their better instruction. I he Ten Commandments and the preamble are printed in Mr. Raines c 2 lii Introd. Traveller's View and Scenery. ‘ Lives of the Archbishops of York,’ i. p. 471 seq. All the verses will he found in Mr. Halliwell’s ‘ Yorkshire Anthology ’ (printed for private circulation in 1851). This volume contains some good examples of the modern dialects, including ‘Marjory Moorpoot and Gulwell,’ illustrating the speech round Rhosbery Topping:—“ Ah’s Yorkshire,” says Marjory, “ by ma truly ! Ah wor bred and boom at canny Yattan, aside o’ Roasberry Toppin ; ”—and a ‘ Yorkshire dialogue in the pure natural dialect as it is now commonly spoken in the north parts of Yorkshire, 1697.’—(This is by Giles Merrington, a native of Northallerton, and was published by him in the same volume with a poem “ in praise of Yorkshire ale.”) For some remarks on Chaucer’s use of the Craven dialect see Rte. 30, Langstrothdale. The most important published glossaries are—‘ The Hallamshire Glossary,’ by the Rev. Joseph Hunter, 1829 ; ‘ The Dialect of Craven,’ by a Native (the Rev. W. Carr, of Bolton Abbey), 2 vols. 8vo., 1830; ‘A Glossary of Provincial Words used in Teesdale,’ 1849; ‘The Sheffield Dialect,’ by Abel Bywater, 1854; ‘ The Dialect of Leeds and its Neighbourhood,’ London, J. R. Smith, 1862; ‘A Specimen of the Bilsdale Dialect,’ Northallerton, 1832; ‘A Glossary of Words and Phrases collected in Whitby and its Neighbourhood,’ 1855. ‘ The Bairnsla Folks Annual, by Tom Treddlehoyle,’ is an almanac in the local dialect, published regularly at Barnsley. Others are published at Leeds, Bradford, and elsewhere. A ‘ List of Words used in the Moun¬ tainous District of the West Riding,’ by Robert Willan, M.D., will be found in the ‘ Archseologia ’ for 1811. Versions of the ‘ Song of Solomon,’ in the Craven dialect, in that of Sheffield, and in those of W. and N. Yorkshire, were compiled and published under the direction of Prince L. Napoleon. The story of the ‘ Terrible Knitters e’ Dent,’ in Southey’s ‘ Doctor,’ is a very good illustration of the dialect of that part of Yorkshire which borders on Westmoreland. § LIII.—There is no lack of good cheer in Yorkshire; but local “ plats ” are not numerous. Yorkshire pie, however, in which game of all sorts is imprisoned within huge standing walls of crust, is a universal favourite at Christmas time. Yorkshire hams are excellent, and generally of enormous size. The western dairies are celebrated for their cream cheeses: and a very good cheese—sometimes as good as Stilton—is made at Cotherstone and the villages round, in the neigh¬ bourhood of Barnard Castle. Wensleydale cheese has also a wide reputation, which it has maintained from an early period. The monks of Jervaulx, at the eastern opening of the dale, were famous for their cheese, their singing, and their white horses. § LIV.—The Botanist should provide himself with Mr. J. G. Baker’s * North Yorkshire; Studies of its Botany, Geology, Climate, and Phy¬ sical Geography,’ London, 1863. Baker and Nowell’s ‘ Yorkshire Flora’ contains a complete list of the flowering plants, ferns, and mosses, with the localities of many of the rarer species. The publisher is Pamplin, 45, Frith Street, Soho. Introd. Skeleton Tours. liii SKELETON TOURS. No. I.—A GENERAL TOUR OP YORKSHIRE, Embracing the chief points of interest throughout the county ( Scenery, Antiquities , and Manufactures'). The more important are marked with con asterisk. This Tour is of ten weeks; but many places described in the Routes are necessarily omitted. Days. 1. London to Doncaster. 2. See *Doncaster church and the race-course in the morning. In the afternoon visit (hy rail) *Coningsborough Castle. 3. By rail to Selby. See *Selby church. Thence hy rail to Hull, visiting *Howden church on the way. 4. See the docks and the church of the Holy Trinity at Hull. In the afternoon visit (by rail) the churches of *Hedon and *Patrington. 5. From Hull by rail to Beverley. See the *Minster, and St. Mary’s church. 6. Beverley hy Market Weighton to York, visiting by the way *Goodmanham and Londesborough. 7. Sunday at York. 8. At York. See the *Minster ; *St. Mary’s Abbey and the gardens of the Philosophical Society; some of the parish churches (see Route 1 for the most interesting); and walk round the *walls. 9. From York to Castle Howard. Visit by the way Sheriff Hutton (church and castle) and Kirkham (abbey ruins). Sleep at the inn at Castle Howard. 10. See the *house at Castle Howard. Proceed to Malton. See the church and Roman station at Old Malton. Thence by rail to Scar¬ borough. 11. At Scarborough. In the morning see the *Castle and the parish church. In the afternoon climb Oliver’s Mount, and afterwards visit, while the band is playing, the *Spa and Promenade. 12. By rail to Filey. See the *church and the *sands. Walk to *Filey Brig. Thence by rail to Bridlington. See the * Priory church. 13. Visit *F1 a,m borough Head and the Caves. Return to Bridlington. 14. Sunday at Bridlington. 15. Drive to Rudstone. See the church and *upright stone; and thence over the Wolds (so as-to get some idea of that district), either to Hunmanby or Filey. Thence by rail to Scarborough. 16. Drive in the morning through the Forge Valley to *Hackness, and thence round by Scalby, In the evening proceed by rail to Pickering. liv Skeleton Tours. Introd. ; Days. 17. See Pickering *churcli and *Castle. Then drive to *Lastingham, visiting the *Cawthorn Camps on the way. Return to Pickering, and proceed by rail to Whitby. 18. At Whitby. See the old town and the *Abbey ruins. In the afternoon walk or drive to Sandsend and see the *alum-works. 19. From Whitby to Egton. See the *Egton Woods; and either walk or drive thence to Rhosdale. If possible, sleep at the Crown Inn in Rhosdale village. 20. See the Rhosdale iron-works ; and walk or drive (the road is but indifferent for wheels) by Ralph Cross, along the ridge between Wester- dale and Danbydale to Castleton. Return by rail to Whitby. [The route planned for these two days will give an excellent idea of the Cleveland Moors ; but, at any rate, two days should be given to excur¬ sions among the moors round Whitby.] 21. Sunday at Whitby. 22. The coast-road from Whitby to Saltbnrn. 23. Saltburn by rail to *Middlesborough. See one of the great *iron- foundries. Thence by rail to Guisborough. See the * Priory ruins. 24. Guisborough to *Rhosbery Topping. Thence to Stokesley and Whorlton. See * Whorlton church and Castle. Sleep at the Black Horse at Whorlton. 25. Visit *Mount Grace Priory and Osmotherley. Thence to North Allerton. See the church there. 26. To Thirsk by train. See the *church at Thirsk. Drive from Thirsk to Helmsley; visiting *Gormire and *Whitestone Cliff by the way. 27. See Helmsley church, *Castle, and *Duncombe Park in the morn¬ ing ; *Rievaulx Abbey in the afternoon. 28. Sunday at Helmsley. 29. Helmsley to Gilling. See *Gilling Castle. By rail to Borough- bridge, visiting *Coxwold on the way. See the *Devil’s Arrows, at Boroughbridge. 30. See the Roman remains at *Aldborough. Drive to Knares- borough. See the *church, castle, Dropping Well, and St. Robert’s Cave. Thence by rail to Harrogate. 31. At Harrogate. In the afternoon to the *Brimham Rocks. 32. By rail to Ripon. See the *Minster in the morning. In the afternoon *Fountains Abbey. 33. Drive from Ripon by *Hack Fall to Masham. Thence to Ley- burn, visiting either * Jervaulx Abbey or *Middleham Castle on the way. 34. Leyburn to Hawes; visiting *Wensley church; *Bolton Castle; Aysgarth church and *Force ; and the Waterfalls near Askrigg. 35. Sunday at Hawes. On this day, or on the following morning, visit *Hardraw Force. 36. Hawes to Sedbergh. See Sedbergh church, and climb the mound above the town. Thence by rail to Barnard Castle. 37. See the *Castle. Drive to *Rokeby, and thence round by Brignall to Bowes, taking care to walk by the Greta at Brignall, as recommended in Rte. 25. Return to Barnard Castle. Introd. Skeleton Tours. lv Days. 38. Drive to the *High Force, by Cotherstone, Romaldkirk, and Middleton in Teesdale. See the High Force, and sleep either at Middle- ton or at the High Force Inn. 39. Visit the *Caldron Snout; and if the day is fine, ascend *Mickle- fell. Return to Middleton. 40. Return to Barnard Castle, and drive thence to Richmond. 41. See Richmond *Castle and church. Walk to *Easby Abbey. Drive to the * Racecourse. 42. Sunday at Richmond. 43. Drive from Richmond to Bedale,—seeing by the way the Roman station at Catterick; * Brough Hall (pictures), if possible; and *Hornby Castle (pictures). At Bedale see the *church. 44. From Bedale by rail to Ilkley. Stop at Otley and ascend the *Chevin. 45. See the church at Ilkley. Drive to *Bolton Priory; and walk through the woods to * Barden Tower, where the carriage should be in waiting. Drive thence to Skipton. 46. Excursion from Skipton by Rylston to Kilnsey Crag. 47. Drive from Skipton to Settle (or order a carriage from Malham to meet you at Bell Busk station); visiting *Gordale and *Malham Cove by the way. 48. Excursion from Settle to Horton and Selside. If fine,' ascend *Penyghent. 49. Sunday at Settle. 50. By rail to Clapham. See the *Cavem. Thence a good pedestrian should (if the weather is fine) walk across *Ingleborough, and, descend¬ ing upon *Chapel-le-Dale, regain the railway at Ingleton, returning thence to Settle. Otherwise drive from Clapham to Ingleton, and thence to *Chapel-le-Dale. Return to Settle. 51. Drive from Settle to *Bolton-in-Bolland, and *Sawley Abbey. Thence by rail to Skipton. 52. Skipton by rail to Bradford — stopping at Keighley to visit *Haworth. 53. See Bradford church, and *the view from the cemetery. In the afternoon to *Saltaire. 54. Visit the *Low Moor Ironworks; and proceed thence by rail to Halifax. See the *parish church, and the *church of All Saints, Haley Hill. 55. Halifax to Leeds. See the *parish church, *St. John’s church, and the *Museum of the Institute. Afterwards *Kirkstall Abbey. 56. Sunday at Leeds. 57. If introductions have been procured, give the day to the factories of Leeds. Or make an excursion to *Adel church, and thence to *Hare- wood church and Castle. (The house and gardens are open on Thurs¬ days only.) 58. Visit *Temple Newsam (pictures). Return to Leeds, and proceed thence by rail to Wakefield. See * Wakefield church, and the *chantry on the bridge. lvi Skeleton Tours. Introd. Days. 59. Excursion to Nos tel Priory (pictures); thence by rail to Ponte¬ fract. See the *Castle and church. Return to Wakefield. 60. Wakefield by rail to Huddersfield; stopping at the Thornton Lees station for visits to Dewsbury *church and *Thornbill church. Batley, the great seat of shoddy manufacture, may also be visited on the way. 61. Visit *Almondbury Camp and church; and *Woodsome Hall. Return to Huddersfield. 62. Huddersfield, by Penistone, to Barnsley. See Penistone church and *Silkstone church. Make an excursion to Monk Bretton Priory. 63. Sunday at Barnsley. 64. Drive to * Wentworth Castle. Returning to Barnsley, proceed to Sheffield by rail. ' 65. See *St. Peter’s church at Sheffield, and visit a steel factory and warehouse. 66. Excursion to Wharncliffe Chase. 67. Sheffield to Rotherham *church; and *Wentworth Woodhouse (pictures). Return to Rotherham. 68. Drive from Rotherham by "‘Roche Abbey and Tickhill (Castle and church), to Bawtry, where the Great Northern Railway is gained. No. II.—A MONTH’S WALKING TOUR. This is the route followed and described in Mr. White’s ‘ Month in Yorkshire.’ The longest day’s walk is 26 miles; the next 22 ; and all the rest from 14 to 18. Many of the resting-places are necessarily small country inns, where the accommodation, though generally clean, is otherwise, of course, but indifferent. London to Hull by steamer. Days. 1. Excursion by rail to Patrington. Thence walk to Spurn Head and back. Return by rail to Hull. 2. To Beverley by rail. Walk to Hornsea. 3. Walk to Bridlington. Thence by Flamborough Head to the village of Flamborough. 4. Walk to Filey. Thence through Scarborough to Cloughton. 5. Walk by Robin Hood’s Bay to Whitby. 6. At Whitby. Excursion to Egton Bridge. Return to Whitby. 7. Along the coast by the alum-works at Sandsend, to Runswick and Staithes. 8. Along the coast to Redcar. Thence by Kirkleatham to Guis- borough. 9. Climb Rhosbery Topping. Thence to Marton and Stockton. By rail from Stockton to Darlington. Introd. Skeleton Tours. lvii Days. 10. By rail to Barnard Castle. Walk to Rokeby and Wycliffe. Re¬ turn to Barnard Castle in time for the omnibus to Middleton in Teesdale. (It starts about 5‘30 p.m.) Sleep either there, or 5 m. further, at the High Force Inn. 11. See the High Force. Walk to Caldron Snout. Thence climb Mickle Fell; and descend on Brough. 12. From Brough to Thwaite in Swaledale. Thence over the Buttertubs Pass to Hawes. 13. Hawes to Bainbridge. Thence visit the “ forces ”—Mill Gill and Whitfield, near Askrigg. Sleep at Bainbridge. 14. Climb Addleborough. Descend on Simmer Water, walk thence through Widdale to the inn at Newby Head. 15. By the Gearstones inn and Chapel-le-Dale to Clapham. In fine weather cross Ingleborough from Chapel-le-Dale. 16. By rail to Skipton. Thence to Bolton Priory. Thence by Barden to the Angler’s Inn at Kilnsey. 17. By Kettlewell and Buckden; down Bishopdale to Aysgarth. 18. By Carperby and Bolton Castle. Thence by the “ Scarth Nick ” road to Richmond. Yisit Easby. 19. By rail to Ripon. Walk to Fountains Abbey. By rail from Ripon to Thirsk. 20. Walk from Thirsk, by Gormire and the Hambletons, to Rievaulx Abbey. Thence to Helmsley. By omnibus to Gilling. Thence by train to York. 21. At York. 22. By rail to Leeds. Walk to Kirkstall Abbey. By rail to Settle. 23. Walk to Gordale and Malham. Back to Settle. By train to Keighley. 24. Walk to Haworth and back. By train to Shipley. Thence to Saltaire. Rail to Bradford. 25. By rail to Mirfield and Batley. Thence to Wakefield. 26. Rail to Sheffield. No. III.—CLEVELAND AND THE COAST. The inns marked * will not afford extensive accommodation, but are excellent centres for pedestrians. Routes and Resting-places. Places to be visited. York to Malton .Between York and Malton see Sheriff Hutton Castle; Kirkham Priory; and Castle Howard. .. From Scarborough visit Hackness, and the coowt N. and S. Malton to Scarborough lviii Skeleton Tours. Introd. Routes and Resting-places. Filey . Places to be visited. Filey Brig and the coast to Flam- O borough. Bridlington .Flamborough Head and the Caves. * Johnstone Arms Inn, at Hack- Troutdale, the upper valley of the Ber¬ ness went, and the neighbouring moors. *Falcon Inn, 8 m. N. of Scar- This is the best centre for exploring borough. the moors between Scarborough and Robin Hood’s Bay. Pickering .Cawthorn Camps. Lastingham. New- tondale. The moors E. of the railway. Whitby . The coast N. and S. Egton Bridge. Glaizedale, and all Eskdale between Egton and Castleton. Iburndale, and the moors E. of the railway. Gothlandale and Wheeldale. *Rhosdale. (Crown Inn) .. Lower part of Rhosdale. Farndale. The moors between Rhosdale and Castleton. ♦Castleton . .. •• •• Banby Bale, Castle, and .Moors. Free- borough Hill. Westerdale. Base- dale. Ingleby Greenhow .Upper parts of Bransdale and Bils- dale. Guisborough .Rhosbery Topping. The valleys to¬ ward Saltburn. Saltburn-by-the-Sea .. .. Marske; Redcar. The valleys inland. The coast eastward. Staithes .. .. .. .. Boulby Cliffs. Runs wick. ♦Black Horse Inn, Whorlton. Cleveland Hills, between Whorlton and Ingleby Greenhow. ♦Queen Catherine Inn, Os- Mount Grace Priory. Walk down motherley. Ryedale to Rievaulx. Thirsk .Hambleton Hills. Whitestone Cliff. Gormire. Coxwold. •• •• Byland Abbey. Walk over the hills to Rievaulx. Gilling .Castle. Helmsley .. .. .. .. .. Rievaulx. Buncombe. Lower part of Bilsdale. *Inn at Chop Gate in Bils- Upper parts of Bilsdale and Brans- dale, near Bilsdale Church. dale. Kikrby Moorside. Bransdale. Lower part of Farndale. Introd. Skeleton Tours. lix No. IV.— 1 THE WESTERN MOUNTAINS. (Inns marked * are only fitted for pedestrians.) Routes and Resting-places. Places to be visited. Leeds to Skipton .Between Leeds and Skipton, Haworth and the surrounding Moors should he visited from Keighley. Skipton .Moors between Skipton and Bolton; and between Skipton and Thresh- field. Devonshire Arms, Bolton .. Bolton Priory. The Wharfe and hills overlooking the river here. Ilkley .Bombald Moor. Otley Chevin. *Kirkby Malham .Malham Cove, Gordale, and surround¬ ing moors. * Angler’s Arms, Kilnsey .. Wharfe and neighbouring moors. Skifare, and Littondale. *Kettlewell .All Upper Wharfedale. Great Whern- side. *Buckden .Bishopdale. Waldendale. Parts of Langstrothdale. Settle .Ribbledale. Penyghent, and all the neighbouring moors. P orest of Bow- land, S.W. *Gisburne .Lower Ribbledale. Bolton Hall. Saw- ley Abbey. Clapham .The Caves. Ingleborough. *Ingleton .Kingsdale. Chapel-le-Dale. Whern- side. Yordas Cave, and Easgill. *Gearstones Inn, near Bibble- Ingleton Fells. Cam Fell. Parts of Head. Langstrothdale. •Inn at Newby Head .. .. Widdale Fell, and surrounding moors. Hawes .Hardraw Force. The Buttertubs Pass, between Hardraw and Thwaite. Hawes may serve as a centre for much of the country between it and Ingleton; and from it the hills may best be explored which lie between Hawes and Sedbergh. Sedbergh .How Gill. The Calf. Baugh Fell. Dent Dale; and all the country on the Westmoreland border. Askrigg . .. Semmer Water. Bainbridge. Ays- garth. The hills between Wens- leydale and Swaledale. *Aysgarth .Bishopdale. Waldendale. Pen Hill. [Yorkshire. 1 * lx Skeleton Tours. Introd. Routes and Resting-places. ' Places to be visited. Leyburn. All Wensleydale may be explored from here. Middleham. Jervaulx. - Country between Leyburn and Eichmond. Swaledale. *Muk.er or *Thwaite .. .. Buttertubs Pass. Upper part of Swaledale. Eeeth . Swaledale. Arkengarthdale. Eichmond .Swaledale. Easby Abbey. Catter- ick. Hornby Castle. Country between Eichmond and Barnard Castle. Barnard Castle .Eokeby. Eggleston Abbey. The Greta. Wycliffe. Bowes. Country’ between Barnard Castle and Mid¬ dleton. Stainmore. Middleton in Teesdale, or Upper Yalley of Tees. Lunedale. High Force Inn. High Force. Caldron Snout. Mickle Fell, and surrounding moors. ERRATA, 1868. Page 70, col. I.—Dele “ Overton by the road is 10 m. from York,” Page 81, col. 2.—The best Inn at Selby is the “ Londesborough Arms,” not the George. Page 118, col. 2 .—Dele “A coach runs 4 days a week from Beverley to Market Weighton.” Since this portion of the Handbook was compiled, a branch rly. has been opened from Beverley to Market Weighton, making a somewhat striking cut through the Wolds, and bringing Beverley within shorter distance of York. 5 trains run daily each way (between York and Hull, the length of the entire line). The distance from York to Beverley is performed in about 1) hour. For the line from Market Weighton to York see Rte. 9. Page 176, cols. 1 and 2 .—Dele “ Station at Beckholes.” There is none there at present. Page 330. A railway is opened from Barnard Castle nearly to High Force Waterfall, Rte. 26. Page 364, col. 1.—Dr. Smith, the physician and founder of Ilkley Wells, ■ died in 1864. Page 376, col. 1.—-The chief public-house at Kilnsey is the “ Tennant’s Arms,” the quarters of the Kilnsey Anglers’ Club. Page 418, col. 2 .—Dele the word “late;” which happily must not be used with reference to Sir Francis Crossley. An apology is due for so unfortunate an oversight. HANDBOOK FOR YORKSHIRE ROUTES. %* The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where tkejptoces are described. ROUTE PAGE 1. London to York, by Don¬ caster (Barnsdale , Bolton Percy ).. 2 2. Doncaster to Keadby, by Fishlake and Thorne (Hat¬ field Chase) .74 3. Knottingley to Goole, by Snaith .79 4. London to Hull, by Selby (Hemingborough, Wressel, Howden) .81 5. Hull to Withernsea, by Hedon and Patrington. (Spurn Head. The Hol- derness Coast to Hornsea, Aldborougli) .97 6. Hull to Bridlington, by Be¬ verley and Driffield (Kirk- burn, Burton Agnes) . .107 7. Hull to Hornsea (Holderness, Skirlaugh, Burton Con¬ stable) .122 8. Beverley to Bridlington (rd.) 127 9. York to Market Weigliton (Londesborough, Goodman- liam). Market Weigbton to Selby (Bubwith) . . . 129 10. York to Scarborough, by Malton (Sheriff Hutton, Kirkham Priory, Castle Howard, Hackness) . . 133 11. Scarborough to Filey and Bridlington (Flamborough Head, Budstone) . . . 159 12. York to Whitby, by Pickering (Lastingham, the Cleveland Moors, Bhosdale. The coast from Whitby to Saltburn) 169 13. Whitby to Stockton - upon- Tees, by Stokesley (Castle- ton, Bhosbery Topping, Guisborough, Whorlton) . 189 [ Yorkshire. ] ROUTE PAGE 14. Malton to Driffield. The Wolds .198 15. York to Darlington, by Thirsk and Northallerton. (Hambleton Hills, Gormire, Battle of the Standard, Mount Grace Priory) . . 200 16. Stockton to Saltburn, by Middlesborough and Bed- car. (Kirkleatham, Skelton Castle) .212 17. Thirsk to Malton (Coxwold, Newburgh, Byland Abbey, Ampleforth, Gilling Castle, Helmsley, Duncombe Park, Bievaulx Abbey, Kirkdale, Kirkby Moorside, Hoving- liam, Slingsby) . . . .217 18. York to Boroughbridge and Aldborougli .230 19. York to Knaresborough and Harrogate (Marston Moor). 234 20. Harrogate to Pateley Bridge. Nidderdale (Bipley Castle, Brimham Crags) . . . 246 21. Harrogate to Northallerton, by Bipon (Fountains Abbey, Markenfield Hall, Hack- fall, Well, Snape, Tanfield, Newby Hall, Wath, Bal- dersby, Topcliffe) . . . 251 22. Northallerton to Leyburn, by Bedale (Hornby Castle, Middleham, Coverliam Ab¬ bey, Jervaulx Abbey, Bolton Castle) .281 23. Leyburn to Sedbergh, by Hawes, Wensleydale (Wens- ley, Aysgarth, Seamerwater, Hardraw Force, Buttertubs Pass, Denldale) . . . 295 B 2 Route 1. ROUTE page 24. York to Richmond (Catterick , Brough Hall, Hipswell, Easby Abbey, Swaledale) . 305 25. Darlington to Barnard Castle ( Rokeby, Wycliffe, Bowes) . 319 26. Barnard Castle to Middleton- in-Teesdale (High Force, Caldron Snout, Micklefell) . 330 27. London to Leeds, (1) by Doncaster and Wakefield; (2) by Fontefract and Wakefield; (3) by Ponte¬ fract and Castle ford ( Tem¬ ple Newsam, Adel) . . 335 28. Leeds to Harrogate ( Kirk- stall Abbey, Ilarewood ) . 354 29. Leeds to Skipton, by Otley and llkley (Rombald’s Moor, Bolton Priory, Wharfedale) .... 360 30. Skipton to Kettlewell (Upper Wharfedale) .... 374 31. Skipton to Ingleton, by Settle (Malham, Gordale, Clap- ham Cave) .379 32. Skipton to Clitheroe (Gis- burne, Sawley Abbey) . . 393 33. Leeds to Skipton, by Bingley and Keighley ( Saltaire, Haworth) .399 34. Leeds to Bradford (Lowmoor Iron Wor-ks) ..... 405 35. Bradford to Halifax and Tod- morden .412 36. Leeds to Manchester, by —Bawtry. ROUTE TAGE Beiosbury and Huddersfield (.Alm.ondbury, Woodsome Hall) .422 37. Leeds to Wakefield (Nostel Priory, Walton Hall) . . 431 38. Wakefield to Halifax (Thorn¬ hill, Kirklees, Elland) . . 441 39. Wakefield to Doncaster, by Barnsley and Mexborough (Monk Bretton Priory, Wentworth Castle, Conings- borough) .446 40. London to Leeds.—(N. Mid¬ land Railway, Barfield, Royston) .454 41. Leeds to Selby, by Milford Junction (Barwick - in - Elmete) .456 42. London to Harrogate, by Tadcaster and Wetherby (Field of Towton, Cow- thorpe Oak) .458 43. Huddersfield to Sheffield, by Penistone and Wortley (Silkstone, Wharncliffe Chase) .465 44. Sheffield to Doncaster, by Masborough ( Rotherham, Wentworth House) . . . 481 45. Sheffield to Barnsley (Eccles- field) .487 46. Rotherham to Bawtry (Roche A bbey, Laughton -en-le- Morthen, Tickhill) . . . 489 ROUTE 1. LONDON TO YORK, BY DONCASTER. (Great Northern Railway, King's Cross Stat.) Bistance from London to York, i91 m. 8 trains daily; the express in 4 hrs. 35 min., ordinary trains in 5 hrs. 40 min. (The “great North road,” in the days of posting, was chiefly remarkable for the ab¬ sence of scenery or places of interest along its course. The Great Northern Railway follows nearly the same line. The rly. passes through much rich and fertile country; but it opens no picturesque scenery, and the only places of importance between London and York are— Peterborough, where the tourist should look out for a fine view of the west front of the cathedral; Grantham, with its noble church and almost unrivalled spire; and Newark, where the castle reminds us of the death of King John, which occurred within its walls. The Great Northern does not follow the line of a Roman road from London; but at Bawtry it meets an ancient cross-road from Lindum (Lincoln), and proceeds in a line with it to Doncaster and Castleford.) At 148 m. from London, Bawtry Stat, we enter Yorkshire. Bawtry is a village of about 1000 Inhab., containing little or nothing to attract the tourist. The ch. has some 3 "Route 1.— Doncaster. Norm, portions; but the tower is modern. There is a hospital, with a chapel, founded by the Morton family, who were long resident here, and who, continuing in the old religion, caused Bawtry to be regarded as “ a dangerous nest of papists ” when the Queen of Scots was confined at Shefflelc. Castle, about 16 m. distant. Baw¬ try is on the great North road; anc it was here that the Sheriff of Yorkshire anciently met royal per¬ sonages and conducted them over the border of the county. When Hen. VIII. visited Yorkshire in 1541, after the rising known as the “ Pil¬ grimage of Grace,” he was met at Bawtry by “ 200 gentlemen of the county in velvet, and 4000 tall yeo¬ men and servingmen well horsed, who on their knees made a submission by the mouth of Sir Robert Bowes, and presented the king with 900L”— (Hall.) [There is a Roman camp near the village of Austerfidd (1 m. rt.); and the ch. has Norman portions. At Tichhill (4 m. 1.) are a fine Perp. ch. and the remains of a castle. See Rte. 46.] 1511 m. Rossington. The small ch. here, which has a Norm, chancel arch and S. door, was probably erected by the Fossards, lords of Doncaster and the surrounding dis¬ trict from the Conquest to the reign of Richard I. In the churchyard is the grave of Charles Bosvile—died 1709. Like Bampfield Moore Carew in the South, Bosvile made himself the chief of the Northern gipsies, and his word among them was law. “ He was a gentleman with an estate of about 200k a-year,'and is described by De la Pryme, of Hatfield, as ‘a mad spark, mighty fine and brisk, and keeps company with a great many gentlemen, knights, and es¬ quires, yet runs about the country/ . ... No gipsy for many years passed near Rossington without going to pay respect to the grave of him whom they called their king ; and I am informed that even now, if the question were asked of any of the people who still haunt the lanes in this neighbourhood, especially about the time of Doncaster races, they would answer that they were Bos- vile’s people.”— (Hunter's 8. York¬ shire.) [In the ch. of Wadworth, 4 m. E., is an effigy (14th centy.), which is probably that of a forester. The dress, as Mr. Bloxam has pointed out, exactly agrees with that of Chaucer’s “ Yeoman Forester— “ And he was clad in cote and hode of grene, And by his side a sword and a bokeler; An home he bare; the bawdricke was of grene; A forester was he sothely as I gesse.” The effigy of Jenkin Wyrral in New- land churchyard, Gloucestershire, should be compared. Few similar memorials exist.] From Rossington the line proceeds through a level district to 156f m. Doncaster Stat. Hotels: Royal (best); Reindeer. Railways: To York (Great Northern), 7 trains daily. To Wakefield and Leeds (Great Northern), 10 trains daily (Rte. 27). To Sheffield (Midland, 19 m., via Swinton and Masborongh) (Rte. 44), 5 trains daily. To Manchester and Liverpool (S. Yorkshire and Manchester line, via Barnsley and Penistone) (Rte. 43), 4 trains daily. To Sheffield (S. Yorkshire, via Wombwell and Chapeltown, 27 m.) (Rte. 46), 4 trains daily. Doncaster, one of the cleanest and pleasantest towns in Yorkshire, “ most desirable as a place of residence” (Phillips), occupies the site of the Roman Danurn, a station on the great road which passed from Lindum (Lin¬ coln) to Eboracum (York). “ It is a very likeable place, being one of the most comfortable towns in Eng- ' and; for it is clean, spacious, in a salubrious situation, well built, well governed, has no manufactures, few Boute 1 .—Doncaster : History. 4 poor, a greater proportion of inha¬ bitants who are not engaged in any trade or calling than perhaps any other town in the kingdom; and, moreover, it sends no members to Parliament .”—The Doctor. There was a ferry here across the river Don (for a general notice of the river Don, see Rte. 43); and Roman anti¬ quities have been found from time to time at Doncaster. (The Prefect of the Crispian Horse, an officer of high rank under the “ Dux Britanniarum, was stationed at “ Danum ” when the ‘Notitia Dignitatum’ was compiled in the reign of Arcadius and Hono- rius.) The Northumbrian kings had a “ villa ” here; but the “ Campodu- num” of Bede, which has been some¬ times identified with Doncaster, seems to be more correctly placed in the neighbourhood of Huddersfield (see Rte. 36). The position of Doncaster on the line of the great North road has rendered it more than once a place of historical importance. The Northmen frequently plundered it. Malcolm of Scotland did homage here for Cumberland to Henry II. in 1157. Thomas Earl of Lancaster, the great baron of Pontefract, assembled his ad¬ herents here in the winter of 1321-2, before the rising which ended in the battle of Boroughbridge (see Rte. 18). In 1470 occurred the remarkable rising in Lincolnshire, the object of which was to place Clarence on the throne instead of his brother, Ed¬ ward IY. Sir Robert Welles and Sir Thomas Delalaunde headed the in¬ surgents, who were defeated at Er- pingham, in Rutlandshire. The king (who in spite of his promise had be¬ headed Lord Welles, father of Sir Robert) then returned to Doncaster, where he caused Sir Robert Welles and Sir Ralph Grey to be beheaded in the Market-place. During the “ Pilgrimage of Grace ” in 1536, Don¬ caster was the scene of two remark¬ able interviews between the insurgent leaders and the heads of the royal army. This army, under Lord Shrews¬ bury and the Duke of Norfolk, was m Doncaster, and the bridge across the Don (whose successor still occupies the same place, on the N. side of the town) had been fortified. Aske and the insurgents had advanced from Pontefract to Scawsby Lees, about 3 m. N. of the river. A battle seemed imminent; but, after some discussion, a conference between certain of the leaders • on either side took place on the bridge (Oct. 26, 1536), Robert Aske himself remaining on the bank of the Don, “ the whole host standing with him in perfect array.” It was then agreed that the petition of the insurgents should be carried to the king, and that the musters on either side should he disbanded. A second meeting between Aske and the king’s commissioners took place in Decem¬ ber, when Norfolk announced the kmg’s pardon to the insurgents; and Aske, “ in the presence of all the lords, pulled off his badge, crossed with the five wounds, and in a sem- blable manner did all the lords there, and all others there present, saying all these words : ‘ We will wear no badge nor figure but the badge of our sovereign lord.’ ”—( Froude , Hist. Eng. iii. ch. 13. For a general sketch of the rising see Introd.) During the civil war Charles I. was frequently at Doncaster, and the Puritan Earl of Manchester made it his head-quarters after Marston Moor. In 1648, when Pontefract Castle was the only royal garrison in the North, a small party from it attacked and killed the Parliamentarian General Rainsborough, in the midst of his troops at Doncaster. Sir Marmaduke Langdale was a prisoner at Notting¬ ham, and the object of the royalists was to get possession of Rainsborough, so as to effect an exchange. _ They were nearly successfid; but in the struggle Rainsborough was severely wounded, and fell dead; his assail¬ ants got safely back to Pontefract. A house opposite the shambles is still pointed out as the scene of the attempt. o Houle 1 .—Doncaster : St. George's Church. The chief points of interest in Don¬ caster are the Churches (all modem), the Race-course, and, for those who care for machinery, the “plant ” of the Great Northern Railway. Except during the race-week (in September), when the town is thronged with visitors, and enormous sums are de¬ manded for lodgings, Doncaster is quiet and attractive. There are no manufactures, and the movement of the place is chiefly due to the weekly corn-market, which is one of the most important in the North. There are few agricultural districts in England richer or more productive than that of which Doncaster is the centre. *St. George’s, the parish church of Doncaster, whose bells sounded so pleasantly in the ears of Dr. Dove, was completely burnt down (Feb. 28, 1853); ,the cause being, as usual, a neglected flue. The old church had nothing remarkable in its architec¬ tural character except the central tower, which was finished about 1425, and was inferior to none in the king¬ dom for accurate proportion and grace of outline. It was the celebrity of this tower that caused the restoration of the ch. to be taken up as a matter of more than local interest. Nearly 30,000Z. were subscribed at once, and 10,000£. more afterwards. The work was placed in the hands of Mr. G. G. Scott, who may safely rest his reputa¬ tion with posterity on this noble building—free as it is almost com¬ pletely from those foreign elements which it is becoming too much the fashion to mix with English Gothic. The general character of the ch. is Dec. The greatest defect is per¬ haps of somewhat foreign character, viz. the apparent shortness of the nave and transepts for their height; for although the ch. is in both those portions considerably longer than the old one, it looks shorter, in consequence of the roofs being 75 ft. high, whilst those of the former building were flat. The present church may be shortly described as a large cross ch., with an internal area of 12,600 feet; the length of the whole inside is 169, of the transepts 92, and of the nave 91 ft.; the width of the nave and aisles 65, and of the nave proper and of the transepts and chancel 27 ft. There is on each side of the chancel a chapel 25 feet wide, one of which, formerly called the Seaton Chapel, was rebuilt in a more decorated style than the rest of the ch. at the sole cost of Mi - . Forman, of Pipbrook .House, in .Kent, the representative of an old Doncaster family; and it is also the baptistery of the ch., containing a large and handsome font of serpentine marble, the gift of Professor Selwyn. The tower is 170 ft. high, and (except that of Boston, Lincolnshire) is the highest central tower of a parish ch. in England (it is exceeded by some cathedral towers). Being 34 ft. square outside, it is proportionately wide, which can hardly be said of any other modern tower. The internal area is just three times that of Mr. Scott’s other celebrated Yorkshire ch., at Haley Hill, Halifax, though the tower of that reaches, with its spire, the height of 240 ft.; and the steeple of Mr. Butterfield’s still more costly ch. in Margaret Street, London, is equally narrow for its great height. The E. window is one of the largest in England, being 48 ft. high and 22)- wide. It has 8 lights and a wheel above them 15 ft. in diameter. It has been lately filled with painted glass by Hardman (representing the Passion of Our Lord, and the events before it, beginning with the Entry into Jerusalem), in memory of the Rev. Dr. Sharpe, who was vicar and curate, and a schoolmaster of great reputation at Doncaster for more than half a century, and survived the re¬ building of his ch. about a year. (His coped tombstone, of very good design, should be remarked, in the churchyd.) There are other jjainted windows of various qualities in the 6 Boute 1.— Doncaster: Churches. eh., including two by Capronniere of Brussels, in which the attempt has apparently been made to produce the effect of oil paintings, with a result strongly resembling coloured blinds. The glass by Wailes, in the Seaton Chapel, ifj good. The pulpit would appear enormous in a cli. of ordinary size, being part of a circular arcade of 8 ft. diameter, consisting of 10 arches with marble shafts, on a round base, ornamented with iron bands, like a piece of a Norman pillar 5 ft. thick. The general design of it and of the pulpit itself was given by Mr. E. B. Denison, who suggested various other features in the ch., apd especially the sinking of the windows deeper from the out¬ side than had been previously done in any modern ch. The tower contains a fine peal of 8 bells, also designed by him on the scale of the Westminster clock bells (as described in the 4th edition of his ‘ Rudimentary Treatise on Clocks and Bells’). The medal¬ lions and sculpture throughout the ch. are by Phillips of London. The organ of the old ch. had been celebrated in its time as the best work of Byfield and Harris; and the new one promises to be still more famous. It is built by M. Schultze, of Paulin- zelle, near Erfurt, and is said to be the largest ch. organ in England, except that of York Minster; con¬ taining 96 stops and above 6000 pipes, and covering a space of about 900 square ft. in the N. chapel. It has 12 bellows, not worked by hands, as usual, but by feet, in which way a man can exert nearly double the power with less fatigue. Three men can blow the full organ. But the sweetness of the tone is a far more valuable quality of this organ than its size, and it is so voiced as not to be too loud for the ch. The whole cost of the organ, apart from the screen or case, was 2500Z., for which a separate subscription was raised. “ The whole cost of this noble ch., with all its appendages, is stated to be within 45,0004 which is very much less than that of the partial rebuilding of the Temple ch. in 1840, of which the square part is just equal in area to the nave of Doncaster; less than the cost of the church in Margaret Street, and not much more than that of All Saints at Haley Hill, neither of them containing more than half the area of Doncaster. Com¬ paring it with the rebuilt parish ch. of Leeds, the area appears about the same, though the capacity of Leeds is greater on account of the galleries; but the length of Doncaster is 16 ft. more, the height both of the roofs and the tower evidently much greater, and the sectional area of the tower about twice as much, the Leeds tower standing on an aisle only; and while Leeds has deal woodwork, plastered walls inside, and slated roofs, Don¬ caster has oak, stone, and lead. Yet the cost of the Leeds ch. was generally understood to have been close upon 40,000Z., though the stone was raised in the parish, and that of Doncaster was brought from Stutly, in Nottinghamshire. So that for its size and architectural character this has been a singularly cheap building, a fact which is not without importance in these days, when there is a growing disposition to regard mere height and ornamentation as the only sources of architectural effect.”— E. B. D. The same lesson is taught still more strongly by a still cheaper ch. in Doncaster, viz. that called *8t. James's, which (through the influ¬ ence of the chairman of the Great Northern Railway Company) was built by the subscriptions of some of the shareholders for the families of their workmen, who have increased the population of the town by about 4000. This ch. consists of two nearly equal naves 113 ft. long and 52 ft. wide, together with what is only a bell-turret in architectural design, but in most modem chs. would pass for a tower and spire,—in height 120 ft.— rising between the roots at the W. 7 Route 1.— Doncaster: Racecourse. end, or rather out of the roof of the minor nave. The roof is 53 ft. high, and the walls are 32 ft., and hone of them less than 3 ft. thick. This ch. is remarkable for its plainness, but also for the boldness and massiveness of all its parts, and the deep setting and thick mullions of the windows. The value of these conditions is strikingly illustrated by the inferiority of the ch. at the Wakefield Lunatic Asylum, which was copied from this, except that it has only a bell gable, but the windows and other details are made on the usual modern scale of thickness and depth. The general design of St. James’s ch., these peculiarities of it, and many of the details of construction, were supplied by Mr. E. B. Denison, who undertook the management of the building, with Mr. Scott as architect, at the request of the Great Northern Rail¬ way Board. The whole cost of this ch., previous to an alteration of the spire lately made by Mr. Denison at his own expense, was only 5000 1. It is built of Ancaster stone, which is easier to work than Stutly, and equally durable, and was only not used for St. George’s ch. because there was no rly. to Ancaster when that building was begun. The third ch. in Doncaster is Christ Ch., at the S. end of the town, which was founded by the late Mr. Jarratt, a retired iron-master, in 1829. It was built by a local architect, and is not inferior to the average of so- called Gothic chs. of that period. The E. window is filled with stained glass by Capronniere. Doncaster is best known to the world from its Races, which take place annually in September, and last 4 days. They are among the most celebrated in England, attracting a vast assemblage of persons, and con¬ tributing not a little to the prosperity of the town. At what time races were first established here is quite un¬ certain, but they had probably been in existence for some time in 1703, when the first mention of them occurs. They did not become famous, however, until the St. Leger stakes were established in 1778. These were named after then- principal founder, Gol. St. Leger, who lived near the town; and the race for them is at Doncaster what that for the Derby is at Epsom, or that for the Queen’s Plate at Ascot. The first winner of the St. Leger was a horse of the Marquis of Rockingham’s, rejoicing in the incom¬ prehensible name of “ Allabaculia.” The Racecourse is about a mile from the town, on the old London road. There is no view from it, but the scene from the Grand Stand is worth a visit, and during the races it is wonderfully fine and animated. The Stand was built in 1826 at the expense of the Corporation, who contribute 380b yearly in stakes and plates to be run for, and draw from the stand a rental of 2000b per ann. The cele¬ brated achievements of Eclipse were performed on this course, which is 2 m. in circuit. From the winning- post telegraph wires are stretched through the town to the rly. station. On the left of the station extend the sheds and factories of the rly. “plant," of which (for the Gt. Northern) this is the principal depot. There are others (secondary) at Boston and Peterborough. All the carriages used on the Great Northern Rly. are made here, besides the engines. A great central engine of 80-horse power is the chief motive force; and Nasmyth’s hammer, circular saws, &c., may be seen in full operation. A small saw used for cutting breaks is especially curious. About 1500 workmen are employed here. On Hobcross Hill, a little S. of the town, are the remains of an ancient cross (removed here from the town in 1793), with the inscription— “Icest est la craice Ote D Tilli 4. ki alnae Deft en face merci. Amen.” 8 Route 1.— Doncaster — Arksey. Otiio de Tilli was seneschal of Con- isborough in the reigns of Stephen and Henry II. “The whole town of Doncaster,” says Leland, writing in Henry VIII.’s time, “is built of wood, and the houses be slated; yet there is great plenty of stone thereabout.” There are now few old houses—and little even which can be assigned to the time of Dr. Dove. The Town-hall was built in 1744, and improved in 1800. The Shambles, in the large market-place, built 1848, occupy the site of the Norm. ch. of St. Mary Magdalene, parts of which were dis¬ covered in 1847, and pulled down. The Eev. Mr. Cartwright, inventor of the power-loom, finding no one at Manchester willing to give a trial to his discovery, established at his own cost (1786) a manufactory and a weaving-mill at Doncaster, the ma¬ chinery in which was at first moved by a bull. The profits of the town mills, near the bridge over the Don, were an¬ ciently assigned for the special ex¬ penses of the mayor; hence the old verse—• “ The Doncaster Mayor, he sits in his chair, His mills they merrily go: His nose cloth shine with drinking of wine, And the gout is in his great toe.” A very pleasant excursion may be made from Doncaster to Gonings- horough Castle (5J m. There is a station on the Midland Ely.). The castle itself is of great interest, and the scenery on the Don is very pleasant (see Ete. 32). A drive of about 10 m. from Doncaster, along the great Northern road, will bring the tourist to Barnsdale, the ancient haunt of Eobin Hood. (See post.) ICarr House, 1 m. from Doncaster, on the northern edge of Pottery Carr, was for many generations the resi¬ dence of the Childers family. Here the famous horse called Bay Childers, or the Flying Childers—in his day, and long after, the fleetest racer known in England — was bred by Leonard Childers, who died in 1748. Pottery Carr is an extensive level, of about 4000 acres, lying S. of the race¬ course. It was formerly a complete morass, as the name “ Carr ” indicates; but toward the end of the last centy. an Act was obtained for draining and allotting it, and it is now valuable ground.] _ Leaving Doncaster by the railway, Cusworth House (W. B. Wrightson, Esq., M.P.) is seen 1. The river Don (which was made navigable to Fish- lake in the reign of George II.) is then crossed ; and we soon reach 158J m. Arltsey Stat. The ch. (seen rt. of the stat.) is interesting. It is for the most part late Trans., with traces of an earlier (Norm.) building. The central tower (Trans.) has a low spire above it, which may possibly be of the same date. The parapet and pinnacles of the tower have been added. The mouldings of the tower arches and their piers, with double shafts and capitals, are very good, and the view of the group from the W. end excellent. Eemark a curious pierced panel of stone on the S. side of the chancel. It now opens through the thickness of the wall to the vestry; but the wall was originally external. On the N. side, low down, is a square hollow in the exterior wall. The pulpit dates 1634, and the font-cover 1662. The font Avas once attached to the last pier on the S. side of the nave. There are some remains of good heraldic glass in the Avindows. The arms in the W. win- doAV are apparently those of Henry Duke of Lancaster, died 1361. The ancient lords of Arksey were the NeAvmarches, the Tibetots, the Scropes, and the Windhams. In 1654 the manor was sold to Bryan Cooke of Doncaster, Avho left by will money for the erection of a hospital for 12 poor persons, each of whom receives 9 Boute 1.— Adwick —. 51. a year. This hospital, with a rather picturesque gateway, stands opposite the ch. 1. of the stat. is Arksey Pool, a deep hollow in the magnesian lime¬ stone, well stored with fish. [The ch. of Adwich-le-Street (the name marks its position, close to the great North road, here a branch of the ancient Ermyn Street), 2J m. N.W. of Arksey (and on the line of the Great Northern Ely. between Doncaster and Wakefield; see Ete. 27), is E.E.and early Dec,, and has been well restored. The tower is open to the nave. A singular half-arch connects the E. E. chancel with the Dec. nave. In the Washington Chapel (N. ofthe chancel) are some incised slabs (16th centy.) on altar-tombs. The Washingtons were lords of the manor from the middle of the 16th centy. to the be¬ ginning of the 18th; but although tradition has always connected the American family with one of the northern counties, there is no proof whatever of its relation to the Wash¬ ingtons of Adwick. In the reign of Henry II. the ch. at Adwick was granted to the nuns of Hampole, who possessed it till the Dissolution, when all their interest passed to the Saviles of Methley. On the publication of Spelman’s ‘ De non Temerandis Ec- clesiis,’ Mrs. Anne Savile, daughter of the then proprietor, was so much struck by it, that she purchased the “ rectory ” from her father (at a cost of 900Z.), and settled it on the cure for ever. 2 m. W. of Adwick-le-Street, and on the road from Doncaster to Wakefield, is Hampole, where was a priory for Cistercian nuns, founded by William de Clarefai, about 1170. At this place lived Eichard Eolle, the “hermit of Hampole,” one of the most popular “ divines ” of the 14th centy. His books, written in rhyme, for the “ unlered and lewed,” afford remarkable examples of the.Northum- ■Hampole — Askerne. brian dialect. One of the most im¬ portant, the ‘ Pricke of Conscience,’ was edited by Mr. Morris, in 1863, for the Philolog. Soc. All that is really known about Eichard Eolle will be found in the preface to certain of his English Prose Treatises, edited (1866) for the Early Eng. Text Soc. by the Eev. G. Perry. He was born at Thornton, near Thirsk; and instead of having been an Augustinian friar, or a Doctor of Divinity, as is generally asserted, he was not in holy orders, but entirely an irregular teacher, and in a great measure self-instructed. He died in 1349, and was buried in the Priory at Hampole.! 1. of the line, beyond Arksey, is Owston ch., E. E. (tower and chan¬ cel), with Perp. additions. On the N. side of the chancel has been a chapel, now destroyed. A canopied tomb of the 14th centy., with fine oak-leaf crocketing, remains in what is now the exterior wall. The ch. contains a monument by Chantrey, for Mrs. Cobke (d. 1818), and some Munich glass. Adjoining is Owston Hall( P. D. Cooke, Esq.). 162-J m. Askerne. (The rly. from this stat. to Knottingley is Lanca¬ shire and Yorkshire.) Here is a Spa of some local reputation. There is a small new ch., a tolerable Inn (the Swan), and lodgings are numerous. The water is sulphureous, and is said to be useful in cases of gout and rheumatism, and in some forms of cutaneous disorder. There is little to attract the ordinary tourist, although the charms of the pump- room, and of Askerne Pool with its pleasure-boats, draw large occa¬ sional parties from Doncaster. The “Pool,” covering about 6 acres, re¬ sembles that at Arksey, and has been considered the crater of an extinct volcano. Such hollows are, however, produced by water charged with carbonic acid gas, which dissolves the limestone. At the back of the b 3 10 Route 1.— Campsall — Rarnsdale. village stretches the “ Mount,” a ridge of magnesian limestone, from which a good view is obtained, chiefly over the low country, eastward. [The ch. of Campsall (2 m. 1.) has a good Norm, tower, the arches sup¬ porting which formerly opened into the nave-aisles, as well as into the nave itself. There are some Norm, portions in the transepts, and the chancel is E. E., but has perhaps been rebuilt with old materials. The nave is Perp., with fragments of earlier work in it. On the S. side of the tower was a vaulted chapel (Dec.), with a priest’s room above it. The Perp. rood-loft remains, and is re¬ markable for the inscription which runs along at the top of the panel¬ ling under the open arches. In the roundels above are the letters I.H.S. and M. The inscription is as fol¬ lows :— “ Let fal downe thy ne and lift np thy hart; Behold thy Maker on yond Cros al to tom; Kemember his woncfis that for the did smart; Gotten without syn, and on a virgin bom: Al his hed percid with a crown of thorn. Alas ! man, thy hart ought to brest in too. Bewar of the devyl when he blawis his horn, And pray thy gode aungel convey the.” The “ devil’s horn ” frequently ap¬ pears in early paintings; and the ‘ Shepherd’s Kalendar ’ has a poem headed, ‘ How every Man and Woman ought to cease of them sins at the sounding of a dreadful horn.’ (An inscription, nearly of the same date as this, and somewhat similar, runs round the nave of Almonbury ch., near Huddersfield—see Ete. 36.) In the chancel are some incised slabs (15th centy.); and in the S. aisle a curious inscription for Thomas Cleworth, vicar (died 1754), the donor of a library, which remains in the vestry. The books are chiefly theo¬ logical, and of no great importance. Among them is aii early copy of Sir P. Sidney’s ‘ Arcadia.’ The vicarage, adjoining, has been formed from a house dating early in the 14th centy. Some door and window arches re¬ main ; and the plan of the house, a long parallelogram with a projection to the S. (forming a cross), may still be traced. In the parish are Campsall Hall (F. B. Frank, Esq.) and Camps Mount (G. 0. Yarborough, Esq.). The grounds of Camps Mount contain some very large and fine cedars of Lebanon. The old North road, following the line of the Roman way (the Ermyn, or, as it was here generally called, the Watling Street—a good fragment of which may be seen close to the turn¬ pike called “ Barnsdale Bar ”), runs, about 2 m. W. of Campsall, through the district of Barnsdale (probably Beorns-dale, from the name of an ancient possessor), one of the favourite haunts of Robin Hood. The whole of this tract (now for the most part enclosed, and offering little that is picturesque) was anciently covered with forest, and afforded an excellent retreat to bands of outlaw's and broken men, who “ took their prey ” from the passengers along Watling Street. (All the learning about Robin Hood will be found in the 2 volumes of ballads relating to him, edited by Mr. Gutch (London, 1847); in Mr. Hunter’s pamphlet on Robin Hood; and in papers, by Mr. Gutch and Mr. Halliwell, in the 8th vol. of the ‘ Journ. of the Archseol. Assoc/) The historical character of Robin is at least doubtful. The first writer who men¬ tions him is Fordun, who, in the ‘ Sco- tichronicon,’ dating from the latter part of the 14th centy., connects “ that most famous cut-throat,” Robin Hood, with this forest of Barnsdale, where he is said to have been hearing mass when word was brought him that his enemies were at hand. He would not stir until mass was concluded; but then easily put his foes to flight; and afterwards, says Fordun, held masses and the clergy in greater veneration than before—a fact, how¬ ever, which did not prevent him from Route 1.— Barnsdale. 11 sundry attacks “on wealthy abbots’ chests and churls’ abundant store.” Mr. Hunter discovered the names of Simon and Eobyn Hode among the “ vadlets” or “ porteurs de la chambre” of Edward II.; and considered the latter to have been the famous outlaw. Mr. Wright, with great probability, has suggested that Eobin represents some mythical personage—a “ Eobin o’ the wood,” who was not distantly related to Eobin Goodfellow; and this view is much strengthened by the fact that numerous mounds, stones, and wells are assigned to him throughout the whole kingdom. In another fashion he is no doubt the representative of the “ salvage ” men (silvatici), who, as the chroniclers tell us, abounded in the great English forests during the period after the Conquest, harassing the Normans in many ways; and the shape which this “ gentlest of thieves ” has taken in popular tradition was probably the slow growth of later centuries. Here in “ merry Barnysdale,” however, Eobin is for us an actual personage. It was here, according to the ballad, that he caught the Bishop of Hereford and made him dance in his boots, after paying a heavy ransom. (This scene probably suggested that be¬ tween Locksley and the Prior of Jorvaulx, in ‘ Ivanhoe.’) Here Eobin fought Guy of Gisborne, and killed him:— “ I dwell by dale and downe, quoth he, And Eobyn to take I’m sworne, And when 1 am called by my right name I am G-uy of good Gisborne. My dwelling is in this wood, sayes Eobyn; By thee I set right nought; I am Eobyn Hood of Barnesdale Whom thou so long hast sought.” Sir Eichard of the Lee, whom the proud Abbot of St. Mary’s, at York, would have spoiled of his inheritance, met Eobin in the wood here, and was supplied by him with the 400Z. need¬ ful to ransom his land :— “ When he looked on Bemysdale He blyssed Eobyn Hode. And when he thought on Bernysdale, On Scathelock, Much, and Johan, He blyssed them for the best companye That ever he in come.” Eobin himself, after he had been long detained in the King’s court, sighed for the merry greenwood of Barnsdale;— “ Me longeth sore to Bernysdale; I may not be therfro.” The only existing relic of the out¬ law in this district (it was no doubt within the ancient Barnsdale, though not in the small tract now so called) is Robin Hood’s Well, on the roadside, where the parishes of Kirkby-Smea- ton and Burghwallis join. It is close to the highway ; and may have been one of the springs at which, as Bede tells us, Edwin of Northumbria hung brazen cups for the use of tra¬ vellers. It was formerly the fashion for passengers by the coaches to alight here and drink of the water. “Drunken Barnaby” himself tasted it:— “ Nescit sitis artem modi, Puteum Eoberti Hoodi Veni, et liquente vend, Vineta catino catena Tollens sitim, parcum odi, Solvens obolum custodi.” “ We all alighted at the highway,” says Evelyn (1654), “ to drink at a crystal spring, which they call Eobin Hood’s Well; neere it is a stone chaire, and an iron ladle to drink out of, chained to the seat.” The build¬ ing which now covers the well was erected at the beginning of last centy. by the Earl of Carlisle, from a de¬ sign by Vanbrugh. It is cut all over with names and dates, the earliest being 1711. A leather bottle, holding about 3 pints, was long shown at the adjoining inn as having belonged to Eobin Hood. In the park of Skel- brook, opposite the well, is a spot called the “Bishop’s Tree Boot,” marking the site of the oak round which the bishop performed his in¬ voluntary dance. The tree itself has quite disappeared, 12 Movie 1 .—Valley of the Went. It was on the high ground of Barnsdale, through which the road passes, that, during the Yorkshire progress of Henry VIII., in 1548, Cuthbert Tonstal, Bishop of Durham, “ a famous and learned man, and one of the greatest travellers into foreign nations of that time,” pointed out to the King the view of the “ Vale of York”—“one of the greatest and richest valleys that ever he found in all his travels thorough Europe; and moved the King to look about him and behold the great mountains and great hills on the east side of the said valley: being called York Woulds, and Blackamore; and upon the west, hand the high fells of Craven; and all within the county of York; the breadth about 40, and the length of the valley about 50 miles.” (Observations by Vavasour of Hazelwood, Hearne’s ed. of Le- land’s ‘Collectanea,’ vi. 302.) The description will perhaps better agree with the view as seen farther N., in the neighbourhood of Ripon; but it was here that the Bishop enlarged on it. The church (ded. to St. Helen) of Burgh Wallis (2 m. S. of Campsall) is chiefly E. E. and is remarkable for the entire absence of windows on the N. side of the nave. In the nave is a portion of a brass knightly effigy (circ. Hen. V.). There is no inscription; but it probably represents one of the Gascoigns, who were long lords of the manor. The little ch. of Skel- brook (on the Skel “burn,” about 1 m. from Robin Hood’s Well) is very rude E. E., and, like Burgh Wallis, has no window on the N. side of its nave.] 164j m. Norton Stat. [2 m. 1. is Kirk Smeaton, where a small E. E. ch. with Perp. tower has been indif¬ ferently restored. The valley of the Went {Gwent, Brit., fair —the stream rises on the high ground S. of Wake¬ field, and runs westward to the Don at Goole) here offers the most pic¬ turesque scenery in the neighbour¬ hood. Smeaton ch. stands on the edge of the valley, the green sides of which are broken by “Smeaton Crags,” projecting masses of magne¬ sian limestone. Between Smeaton and Went-bridge (an old posting station on the great 1ST. road), for a distance of about 2 m. the valley is called Brockadale (the “brock's ” or badger’s dale), and is narrowed to a glen. On the 1. bank it adjoins Sta¬ pleton Park (— Barton, Esq.); and plantations have been made on this side of the glen, with green roads, and seats at the best points of view, above the crags of limestone. Patches of meadow open here and there along the sides of the sparkling Went; and a steep rough hill (on which are traces of entrenchments) rises opposite. The Brockadale drives are entered from the Went-bridge side; and in ascending from the bridge toward the entrance, wide views open over the wooded country S.W. 2 m. from Went-bridge, toward Ackworth, are the kennels of the Badsworth hunt.] 166| m. Womersley Stat. The spire of the ch. (Dec., of no great interest) is seen 1. Adjoining is Womersley Park (Lord Hawke). The rly., beyond Womersley, is bordered by large quarries, worked in the magnesian limestone, here of great value for building-stone, as well as for burning. The smoke of many kilns sweeps round the train as it reaches 171 m. Knottingley Junction, in the midst of a deep cutting. (Here the rly. again becomes Gt. Northern as far as Milford Junction; rt. a branch line (Gt. Northern) passes to Snaith and Goole, Rte. 3; 1. lines (L. and Y., and Gt. Northern) pass to Leeds by Pontefract, and to Normanton—the centre of a network of rlys.—see Rtes. 27 and 40.) There is nothing to detain the Boute 1 .— -Brotherton—BirTzin. 13 • tourist at Knottingley. The Aire and Goole canal (see Ete. 3) passes close to the town, and, together with the rly., offers great facilities for the conveyance of lime, building-stone, &c. Chemical works, roperies, &c., have been established here; and there are four ship-building yards. A short distance beyond Knottingley the rly. crosses the river Aire, a little above Ferrybridge. This was the principal pass on the river. The present bridge dates from the last cent.; but Leland describes a more ancient one of 7 arches, which was perhaps existing when, March 28, 1461 (the day before the decisive battle of Towton), a fight took place here between Lord Fitzwalter, who had advanced from Pontefract where Edward IY. was present, and the Lancastrians, under Lord Clifford (the traditional murderer of the young Earl of Eutland at Wakefield; see Ete. 37). Early'on the morning of the 28th Fitzwalter heard the noise of a sudden attack, and rose out of his bed, taking a poll-axe in his hand; but, before he knew what was the matter, he was slain. Clifford himself, a few hours later, met, not far from the same spot, with a similar fate from the hands of Lord Fal- conbridge. Fitzwalter, according to Monstrelet, was uncle to the Earl of Warwick, who, when he took the news of his death to Edward, is said to have stabbed his horse in the king’s presence (in token that he would “do or die”), and then, kissing the cross-hilt of his sword, to have sworn vengeance. • 1 m. N. from Ferrybridge is Fry- ston Hall (Lord Houghton). In the garden is a large stone coffin which has been thought to be that of Thomas Earl of Lancaster, the great leader of the barons against Edward II.; beheaded at Pontefract, June 19, 1322 (see Ete. 27). The coffin was dug up in a field near Fryston about 30 years since, and was found to con¬ tain the body of a man of fine stature, with his head between his legs. The skeleton still remains in the coffin; but it is at least uncertain whether it is that of the famous Earl, who was buried in the Priory ch. at Ponte¬ fract. It does not appear that his remains were ever removed from there; and this coffin was found at some distance from the Priory, al¬ though within the monastic grounds. Et. of the rly. is Brotherton, where Margaret of France, second queen of Edward I., “by chaunce laboring as she went on hunting,” brought into the world (June 1,1300) her first child, the prince known as Thomas of Brotherton, afterwards Earl of Norfolk and Grand Marshal of England. She had invoked St. Thomas of Canterbury in her trouble. Hence the name. The house in which the prince is said to have been born, stood, says tradition, not far from the church, which is of some interest. 174 m. Burton Salmon. [4 m. E. of Burton Salmon is the ch. of Birhin, which the antiquary should by no means leave unvisited. The manor of Hurst (afterwards Temple-Hurst) was granted to the Templars in 1152, by Ealph de Hastings; and it was under their influence that the existing church of Birkin seems to have been built. It is Norman, with the exception of the S. aisle and the upper part of the tower. The S. aisle is late Dec., temp. Edw. III.; and the original Nor¬ man S. portal has been removed and rebuilt in it. This is much enriched with different mouldings; the devices in the outermost (the pellet) mould¬ ing being much varied. Similar mouldings ornament the exterior of the windows of the eastern apse, which, with the short choir, forms the chief feature of the interior. Both are Norm. The arch into the choir is more enriched than that opening 14 Route 1 .— Sherburn—Bolton Percy. to the apse. On either side of the choir is a round-headed window, with shafts at the angles. The apse has three Norm, windows, of which that in the centre is filled with Dec. tra¬ cery. Piers with enriched capitals rise between the windows, and sup¬ port the groining. In the N. wall of the nave is a remarkable monument. “ It is a recumbent figure, cross- legged, but unarmed, with the hands closed in prayer, bare-headed, and habited in a loose robe, bearing no insignia of rank or order, and tempt¬ ing the suspicion that it is a peniten¬ tial garment. The roll moulding- over the recessed aperture in which it stands agrees with the presumption that he who lies beneath departed in the faith after the dispersion of the Templars; and we may be excused for suggesting the probability that here rests the Preceptor, or some noble brother of the Preceptory at Templehurst.”— G. A. Poole. Bukin ch. must date soon after the establish¬ ment of the Templars here; and differs, in the arrangement of its choir and apse, from the many small Norm, churches, existing wholly or in parts on this side of Yorkshire. There are no remains at Temple¬ hurst.] The rly. proceeds through the rich vale of York—a level and wooded district, here without much interest for the tourist. It reaches at 176 m. Milford Junct. Stat., where the rly. between Leeds and Selby (Rte. 4) crosses the Great Northern. 177f m. is Sherburn Stat. The ch., with a plain and massive Norm, nave, worth notice, is seen 1. The S. doorway is also Norm., but has been removed from its original posi¬ tion and rebuilt. The arch is now pointed instead of circular, and shields of arms have been introduced instead of the original caps of the shafts. The ch, is said to have | been partly built from the ruins of a palace which the Abps. of York had here, the 'foundations of which exist in a field called the Hall Garth. There was a sharp skir¬ mish at Sherburn (Oct. 15, 1645) between the King’s forces and those of the Parliament; in which Sir Richard Hutton and many others on the king’s side were killed. Lord Digby’s “ coach ” is said to have been taken on this occasion at Milford; and the slain were interred there. The Royalists had the same morning taken 800 Parliamentarians, “ laying their arms in a great heap in the street of Sherburn.” These were now recovered, with “ much rich pil¬ lage.” Sherburn and its neighbour¬ hood are now famous for a plum called the “ wine-sour,” which makes an excellent preserve. Passing Church Fenton ch. rt., we reach 180 m. Church Fenton Junct. Stat. Here a line branches 1. to Harrogate, by Tadcaster (see Rte. 42). Passing 182 m. the small station of TJlleskelf — [1 m. it. is the E. E. ch. of Kirby Wharfe, restored as a memorial of the late Lord Londesborough of Grim- stone Park. Grimstone itself, with its magnificent collection of armour and antiquities (see Rte. 42), is in this parish, and may be easily reached either from this station (from which the house is distant 1| m.) or from Tadcaster. The battlefield of Towton (see, also, Rte. 42) is about 3§ m. S. of Ulleskelf]—the station of *183| m. Bolton Percy is reached. Here the ch. deserves especial notice. Bolton Percy was one of the manors granted by the Conqueror to William de Percy, founder of the great house of Northumberland. The ch. was granted by one of his descendants to Nostell Priory; but was transferred in 1150 to the Abp. of York, in whose | patronage it remains. It is worth 15 Houle 1.—Bolton Percy. 1540L a year, and is the best living- in the diocese. The existing fine Perp. ch. was built by Thomas Parker, vicar, between 1411-1423. The whole is of this date, with the exception of the upper part of the tower and the wooden porch. The chancel is especially good; and is re¬ markable for the “excellence of its workmanship and the grace of its pro¬ portions.” The original open roof, simple but very graceful, remains. The sedilia and piscina, S. of the altar, should be noticed. The matrix of a brass representing the Crucifixion, with a kneeling figure at the side, remains at the back of the central sedile. The chancel windows retain much of their original stained glass, which was, however, much shattered when Thomas Lamplugh (grandson of the Abp.) entered on his incum¬ bency in 1715. He repaired it, and brought into the chancel glass from the nave windows; commemorating his work by the letters and date— T. L., 1720. In the first window at the N.W. is Our Lord, and small figures of Abraham and Isaac, which are of later date than the rest of the glass. In the second are SS. Eliza¬ beth and John the Baptist. In the E. window are four Abps., and St. Andrew in the centre; in the first S. window, St. Peter; in the second, the Virgin and Our Lord; in the third, a young bishop. Coats of arms— Percy, Lucy, Beaumont, and others— are numerous in all the windows. In the vestry is a small water-drain. The great disfiguration of this strik¬ ing church is the cutting away of the chancel piers to receive two huge monuments of the Fairfaxes,—one of them for Ferdinand Lord Fairfax (died 1647), the general of the Parlia¬ ment, who, together with his son the greater Sir Thomas Fairfax, was active in the siege of York (1643). The ch. of Bolton was granted by the Percys (temp. Hen. I.) to the Priory of St. Oswald at Nostell; and remained in the hands of the canons there until the Dissolution, when it was transferred by the Crown to the Abps. of York, in whose gift it still is. A wood at Bolton Percy is recorded in the ‘ Domesday Survey,’ and it was from it that, according to tradition, the Percys made their principal grant of timber for the building of York Minster. Nun Appleton Hall (Sir W. Milner, Bart.), in this parish, was the seat of the Fairfaxes. A nun¬ nery was founded here by Adeliza St. Quintin in the reign of Stephen. On the Dissolution, the site seems to have been granted to the Fairfax family; and Thomas, the first Lord Fairfax, built the house here which, in the beginning of the last cent., passed into the hands of the Milners. This Lord Thomas is said to have kept at Nun Appleton a “noble hospitality.” Ferdinand Lord Fairfax died here in 1647; and here, in 1657, George Yilliers, Duke of Buckingham (the hero of Dryden’s famous verses), married the daughter of the 3rd Lord Fairfax, the Sir Thomas Fair¬ fax of the civil wars—the “ Black Tom Fairfax” of Yorkshire tradi¬ tion. Andrew Marvell, the poet, was for some time a resident here, whilst giving “some instructions in the languages ” to the future Duchess. He has a poem entitled ‘ Appleton House,’ and another ‘ Before the hill and grove at Billborough,’ a place in the neighbourhood, which had long been the property of the Fairfaxes. The first Lord Fairfax, according to Marvell, laid out his gardens in the figure of a fort,— « The sight does from their bastions ply The invisible artillery; And at proud Cawood Castle seems To point the battery of its beams, As if it quarrelled in the seat The ambition of its prelate great.” The third lord, the “Fairfax” of the civil wars, was buried in Bil- borough ch., where his grave is marked by a simple epitaph. 16 Boute 1 .— York: Hotels; Bailways ; History. The game rich level country ex¬ tends on each side of us as we pass 187 m. Copmanthorpe Stat. (The name, “ kaup-manna ” thorpe, sig¬ nifies “the merchants’ village,” and marks a settlement of Danish traders.) Soon the towers of the great Minster come into view; and through a breach in the old city walls, barbarously made to admit the rly., we enter 191 m. York Station. There is a good refreshment-room at the stat. (dinner 2s. 6d.). Hotels: Royal Station Hotel, entered from the station, best; very comfortable and rea¬ sonable. Scawin’s Family Hotel (close to the station); an old house of very good repute. North JBastern Hotel, opposite the stat. York Hotel. Black Swan, Coney-street; central and tolerably good. Railways. To the north, vid Darlington (N. Eastern, 9 trains daily, Rte. 15); to Knaresborough and Harrogate (N. Eastern, 5 trains daily, in 1 hr., Rte. 19); to Harro¬ gate, via Church Fenton (see present route, ante ) and Tadcaster (N. Eastern, 6 trains daily, in about li hr., Rte. 41); to Hull, vid Market Weighton and Beverley (4 or 5 trains daily, 2 hrs., Rtes. 9, 6); to Scarborough (2 hrs., Rte. 10) and Whitby (3 hrs., Rte. 12) (N. Eastern, 8 trains daily). The number of trains which are constantly arriving at and leaving the station, and the consequent bustle, render it very desirable for the passenger to be there some minutes before his own train starts. N.B.—The stat. ;is within 15 mins, walk of the Minster; in proceeding to which, over Lendall iron bridge, you pass 1. the entrance to the grounds and museum of the Yorkshire Philosophical Society. In the grounds are the ruins of St. Mary's Abbey. These and the city walls and gates are the principal points of interest in York. About 300 yards from the stat. (in an opposite direction) is Micklegate Bar, one of the most perfect and most historic of the city gates. York (Pop. in 1861, 45,326), the capital of a county which surpasses in extent and wealth many principalities and kingdoms in Europe, is placed at the junction of the three Ridings (see Introd.). It was the British Oaer Evrauc, a name of uncertain etymo¬ logy, but probably referring to the situation of the town on the river Ouse. (The Ouse is formed by the junction of the Swale and the lire, which latter name may enter into the composition of Evr-auc.) Evrauc, Romanised, became Eboracum (Mr. Wellbeloved and most English scholars make it Eboracum; some continental writers Eboracum—there is no direct authority for either); and afterwards, under the Saxons, Eoferwio. The Danish settlers made it Jorvik; from which last form, according to Worsaae, the present York is immediately de¬ scended. The form in Domesday is Euerwic. The position of York, nearly at that point of the river where it ceases to be navigable, resembled that of most other British towns. It first became Romanised, in all probability, during the second campaign of Agri¬ cola (a.d. 79), and after the conquest of the Brigantes (see Introd.). “ The Romans knew well how wise it was, in a strange and savage country, to take possession of a place of anti¬ quity and note, where, probably, there was the only market in the district, and towards which all the forest paths converged.” — Baine. The first certain evidence of the existence of Eboracum is given us by Ptolemy, who mentions it as the head¬ quarters of the 6th Legion, with monu¬ ments of which York and the neigh¬ bourhood abound. Severus, with his sons Caracalla and Geta, arrived in York circ. 206 or 207. It was then, no doubt, the chief city of the whole province of Britain—“ the seat of the prefect with his official staff and the ministers of his luxury; while Lon- dinium was still a mere resort of traders.” Geta was left to administer justice in York during the absence of Severus in his campaign against the Meatse, and he was assisted here by the famous lawyer Papinian. Severus died at York Feb. 4, a.d. 210. His body was burned here,—probably on the spot still called “ Severus' Hills” (see post), but the ashes were con¬ veyed to Rome. 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